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  <row Id="1" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-17T15:21:33.900" Score="22" ViewCount="3031" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting started with woodworking and am looking to refine my technique for sharpening chisel/plane blades. Currently, I just have a cheap double-sided water stone, but am now looking to get a &quot;proper&quot; setup which will hold me moving forward and then also refining my technique. Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&#xA;Specifically, what type of water stones and diamond stone do I need, should I get a honing guide, what else is must have vs a nice to have, etc. Then what process do I go through to &quot;correctly&quot; use these tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-12-02T22:25:12.907" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T03:25:27.643" Title="How do I sharpen a chisel/plane blade?" Tags="|technique|sharpening|plane|chisel|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7" CreationDate="2015-03-17T15:22:14.250" Score="24" ViewCount="18972" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a fake butcher block counter from Ikea which is really a veneer over particle board.  No matter how I cut it, I can't seem avoid slight chips in the veneer. I'm using a 7 1/4&quot; circular saw and a 60 tooth blade.  I have someone holding the end of the cut piece, but I suspect because it's so heavy, its impossible to avoid flexing all together as the cut gets close to the end. I've tried with both the veneer facing up or down and even a piece of painters tape over but it doesn't seem to make much of a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some tips to help prevent chipping of the veneer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2017-03-20T18:31:47.490" Title="How do I prevent chipping when cutting a veneered counter top with a circular saw?" Tags="|circular-saw|veneer|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30" CreationDate="2015-03-17T15:23:50.883" Score="11" ViewCount="481" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example, you have the spindle gouge:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nBL5M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;spindle gouge&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A parting tool:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SrU44.gif&quot; alt=&quot;parting tool&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And several more. Walk into any wood-working store, and you'll probably see many of these sorts of tools, among others, that come in a great variety of lengths, dimensions, and shapes. Hence, I'm wondering if there's a broad categorization whereby tools in the same category are basically the same shape, just different sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="24" LastEditorUserId="89" LastEditDate="2015-03-17T23:16:37.297" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T17:03:51.757" Title="What are the main categories of wood-turning tools?" Tags="|tools|turning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13" CreationDate="2015-03-17T15:24:03.437" Score="19" ViewCount="12382" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building some garden boxes out of Cedar.  I'd like to protect them so that the wood lasts longer, but I am concerned about certain finishes that might leach contaminants into the soil.  Is there a clear winner in this regard?  Are there finishes specifically designed with this in mind?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastEditorUserId="140" LastEditDate="2015-09-16T14:16:52.083" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T14:16:52.083" Title="What types of food-safe finishes work best for protecting wood that will be outdoors?" Tags="|finishing|toxicity|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-17T15:24:12.523" Score="10" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a 2'x2', 3 floor parking garage for my son.  I've built the core structure out of 1/2&quot; plywood, with dowels supporting it, and 3/16&quot; chalkboard-paper lined plywood glued on top of the plywood on each level (for eventually allowing parking spots to be drawn on and such).  The levels are about 6&quot; apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I created two cut-outs for the ramps (ie, cut out about a 8&quot;x3&quot; section, both to leave room for the ramp and to be used for the ramp itself), but I'm working out now how to attach them properly.  What would be the best way in terms of surviving a three or four year old's level of play to attach them while still keeping it looking more or less like a parking garage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thoughts were either a hinge (like a door hinge) to attach to the top level and a smaller hinge on the bottom level, or to use a wooden triangle to screw it to.  The angle will be about 30 degrees or so (yes, probably unrealistic, but it seems about to match what other products use).  Is there a better option?  What should I keep in mind while doing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-03-17T15:54:14.857" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T16:00:48.980" Title="Properly securing a ramp" Tags="|plywood|toy|joinery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12" CreationDate="2015-03-17T15:24:51.210" Score="39" ViewCount="51291" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently working on a entry bench in black walnut.  I'm wondering if I should raise the grain before finishing my bench or not.  In the past, I haven't done so.  I've heard that it's better to raise the grain.  Yet, I don't know for what reasons.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what is the purpose or advantage of raising the grain before finishing a furniture piece with a water based stain or varnish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-01-26T00:13:26.023" LastActivityDate="2018-11-03T00:51:57.373" Title="What's the purpose of raising the grain before finishing a furniture piece?" Tags="|finishing|staining|varnish|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2" CreationDate="2015-03-17T15:25:36.460" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some things to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Score the cut line with a sharp razor blade.  This cuts the veneer and helps reduce chipping.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Run tape across the cut line in order to support the veneer and reduced chipping from tear out.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a clean blade that's designed specifically for cutting veneers&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure there is adequate support all the way around for the material being cut.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a moderate to slow feed rate to minimize the rate of wood removal.  Don't try to rush the cut.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some materials are very difficult to cut without chipping even if you use all of the above methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T15:25:36.460" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2" CreationDate="2015-03-17T15:26:01.837" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may be able to avoid chip-out by using a sacrificial board atop of the countertop.  Set your depth to cut through the sacrificial board, make sure it is clamped down tight and give it a whirl.  Oftentimes reducing chipout is best accomplished by not giving the wood any direction to chip (e.g., a strongly sandwiched surface)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T15:26:01.837" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-17T15:26:49.783" Score="20" ViewCount="7407" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've turned a few things green on a lathe and I expected them to to do odd things, and they warped and/or cracked.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what useful techniques are out there that this could be minimized or even controlled?  I don't know if it is possible, other than letting the wood dry to a more stable moisture content before turning it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-03-05T17:15:27.997" LastActivityDate="2019-10-02T21:38:09.050" Title="How can you stabilize green wood after turning it on a lathe?" Tags="|green-wood|turning|lathe|moisture|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16" CreationDate="2015-03-17T15:28:01.040" Score="28" ViewCount="1776" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems when I utilize routers, they always seem to burn the edge of the board at some point in the cut. I believe I am cutting at a relatively even speed (though this is obviously subjective). My router bits are fairly new (use wise), so should not be dull. I'm wondering what is the proper technique involved for using a router properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some things I'm wondering are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should you see better results using a routing table instead of locking the board and using the router freehand?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Old vs. new router bits&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed of the router (or power output), does it make a difference?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything else which might be pertinent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T21:46:56.263" Title="Routing boards without burn" Tags="|technique|router|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22" CreationDate="2015-03-17T15:28:02.843" Score="3" ViewCount="785" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wonder of some sharpening technique can reduce chisel efficiency, so maybe after giving the chisel a nice cut it worth re-hardening it so it will last a longer in time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I can heat it and then put it in water/oil but I wonder if water must be cool, shall I re-heat a bit the blade after ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a standard procedure ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastEditorUserId="35" LastEditDate="2015-03-17T15:53:40.060" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T15:53:40.060" Title="How to harden a steel chisel/blade?" Tags="|sharpening|chisel|blade|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2015-03-17T21:07:05.853" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6" CreationDate="2015-03-17T15:31:15.950" Score="40" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want to raise the grain before using water-based finishes, as those will also raise the grain, but you won't be able to adequately scrape/sand off the raised fibers. I'd recommend using distilled water, as it doesn't have any minerals that can discolor some kinds of wood. Don't flood the surface, but wipe it on with a clean cloth and allow it to dry fully. Scrape or sand away the raised grain gently, then repeat as necessary until the wood remains smooth after wiping on water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T15:31:15.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-17T15:31:37.967" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two substances that instantly come to mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wax (paraffin or beeswax)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mineral Oil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use both of these to protect my wood butcher block. They are both food safe, non-reactive and even relatively inexpensive. They will alter the appearance of the wood, by making it more lustrous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have even seen some people finish their butcher blocks with hot paraffin, using either an iron or some other gentle heat source. I cannot speak to the longevity, but by sealing out moisture and barring against some amount of microbes it would certainly improve the lifespan, although by how much I cannot say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T15:31:37.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-17T15:31:47.130" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You mention that you have a sharpening stone.  One improvement might also be to make an angled guard that you run atop the stone that helps to impart the proper chisel angle.  Something like the below might help to ensure you get a razor-sharp edge at the proper angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lazQR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chisel-sharpening jig&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T15:31:47.130" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6" CreationDate="2015-03-17T15:34:57.583" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Raising the grain not only helps to bring out fibers that might swell when applying the actual finish, but saturating the grain beforehand with a wood conditioner will help to make the grain &quot;pop out&quot; (be more visually appealing) which when you're trying for a beautiful finish, is something that you'd normally want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2018-11-03T00:51:57.373" LastActivityDate="2018-11-03T00:51:57.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10" CreationDate="2015-03-17T15:35:28.220" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depth of cut tends to be one of the most important aspects to using a router that is often overlooked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, you're better off taking very thin cuts when using a router.  This allows for consistent feed speeds without bogging down the router bit speed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're working with woods of varying density (ie. knots in the wood) then you'll want to size your cut depth based upon the worst case of what you expect to see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The balancing act is taking lots of thin cuts takes more time and we often want to move on to the next portion of the project.  So sometimes you cut a little deeper and take the risk of scorching, knowing that you'll have to sand that out later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To address some of your questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should you see better results using a routing table instead of locking the board and using the router freehand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A router table can provide better support for the material so you'll have more consistent results.  But some pieces won't fit on a router table and you need to go freehand instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Old vs. new router bits&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Age of the bit isn't as much of a question as &lt;em&gt;sharpness&lt;/em&gt; of the bit.  Given that older bits tend to be more used and therefore less sharp, newer, sharper bits are the better way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Speed of the router (or power output), does it make a difference?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to adjust the speed of the router based upon the size of the cut you're making.  Big bits need to be run at lower speeds.  Smaller bits can be run at higher speeds.  The primary concern is the friction generated between the bit surface and the wood.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Big bits run at high speeds generate more heat from friction which leads to a greater chance of scorching the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-07-12T14:50:29.420" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T14:50:29.420" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-17T15:35:38.013" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Food-safe&quot; finishes are generally those used on surfaces that will be in direct contact with food, such as butcher blocks, salad bowls, etc. For outdoor use, any good tough outdoor finish should be fine. As long as you put on thin coats and allow them to fully cure before putting on the next coat, you shouldn't have to worry about anything leaching into the soil. Really, the leaching danger mainly arises from using pressure-treated wood, especially if it's still wet when you place it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T15:35:38.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-17T15:35:53.210" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sharpening is a lot trickier than one would expect. In order to have a sharp blade you need to have two polished sides meeting one another: the back of the plane iron (or chisel) and the bevel. A couple of tips really helped me as I was sharpening. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sharpen up to 8000 grit. I used to have harbor freight stones and they only went up to 1000 grit--not nearly enough. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep the back flat and the bevel at 25 degrees (or whatever degree it uses). A honing guide usually helps maintain the bevel, but if you don't have one, rock the plane iron until the bevel snaps level, then drag across the stone. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You know you're sharp when you can pare away at end grain on a soft wood (e.g., pine or alder). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Continually check the &quot;reflectivity&quot; of the meeting edges (i.e., the back and the bevel) to make sure the surfaces are polished. Look at @Peter Grace's image toward the meeting edges--that's what you're looking for is a window-like reflectivity at the meeting edges. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastEditorUserId="3" LastEditDate="2015-03-17T17:08:25.163" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T17:08:25.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="40" CreationDate="2015-03-17T15:36:59.087" Score="21" ViewCount="4711" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard from various sources that you must always sand in the direction of the grain.  Is this always true?  Does it depends on the sanding paper's grit, tool used or the wood being sanded?  What are the advantages of sanding along the grain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastActivityDate="2018-08-08T02:15:38.360" Title="Is sanding along the grain important?" Tags="|sanding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-17T15:37:08.723" Score="7" ViewCount="201" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to honing/sharpening and am a little confused about which angles I should be trying to hone my chisels/plane blades to (given the type and their usage). Any general rules of thumb that I can start with and progress towards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-02-01T03:40:00.047" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T03:40:00.047" Title="What angles should I be honing to for what type of chisels/planes/uses?" Tags="|technique|chisel|plane|sharpening|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-03-17T23:54:48.567" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-17T15:37:42.430" Score="46" ViewCount="21967" Body="&lt;p&gt;When cutting a board on the table saw the workpiece can sometimes be flung away from the saw at great (and dangerous) speeds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What techniques or equipment can reduce the chances of kickback?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2015-03-20T15:57:40.980" LastActivityDate="2020-02-16T21:02:14.247" Title="How do I prevent dangerous kickback on a table saw?" Tags="|kickback|safety|table-saw|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11" CreationDate="2015-03-17T15:38:07.257" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not all steel is quench hardening. I do not know that HSS or High Speed Steel (common wood tools) is easily hardened by this method. Typically, the cobalt and vanadium content makes this difficult. It can be done, but only by a controlled heating between 1260-1280°C, controlling the quench (or thoroughness of the heating) and then rapidly cooling, usually in oil. The difficulty in this, is without a controlled induction unit, you end up heating the ENTIRE tool, which would make it brittle and unusable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are going to do this, I would consult someone with at least some blacksmithing skills, and definitely do not use any prized or favorite tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL:DR I would not get into this without EXTENSIVE research and investment in the proper equipment. But by then, you could have just bought hardened tools with a differential temper&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T15:38:07.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-17T15:38:24.637" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;For garden boxes, most of the rotting will come from the inside, not the outside.  As such, the best protecting substance is probably &lt;em&gt;plastic&lt;/em&gt;.  You will not be able to reapply waxes or oils on the inside (unless you're planning to remove the dirt regularly, which you could do); a plastic liner will last longer than those by years.  Of course, you need a food-safe plastic, and even this won't perfectly prevent rot - you'll have to be careful to allow it to drain properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/3683/what-is-a-good-alternative-to-pressure-treated-wood-for-raised-beds&quot;&gt;This question&lt;/a&gt; on Gardening stack exchange explains this in some detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:42:27.943" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T15:38:24.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-17T15:39:32.773" Score="26" ViewCount="4973" Body="&lt;p&gt;Despite doing a great deal of sanding on the end grain, and getting it just as smooth as the rest of the wood, it always soaks up more stain than the rest, and turns out much darker and different. Is there any technique or process I can use that can match the end grain to the rest of the wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-03-17T16:17:47.400" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T19:21:46.483" Title="How can I prepare the end grain for stain, so that its final appearance matches the rest of the wood?" Tags="|sanding|staining|end-grain|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="68" CreationDate="2015-03-17T15:42:04.077" Score="15" ViewCount="4476" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently built a small 2' x 3' dresser top out of pine. It was within 1/8&quot; flat and level when I glued it up in the garage, but within a few weeks inside it had warped and buckled significantly. &lt;strong&gt;What techniques can I use to minimize the chance of this happening in&#xA;   my next project?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Details on the project:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I planed several 2x4's down to 6/4 (1.25&quot;) thickness, and jointed&#xA;them with my router and a straight edge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I checked the moisture content at the beginning of the project, and all the boards seemed to be a consistent 12% throughout. I even measured the middle with my pin contact moisture meter when I crosscut the boards to the 3' lengths.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I had a business trip partway through the project, and had to leave the unfinished table top sitting in the garage for two weeks. It was completely assembled/glued, but hadn't had stain or poly applied yet. When I got back, the warp had already occurred.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I alternated grain orientation on most boards, but I mistakenly put two next to each other with the convex side of the rings facing upwards. The warp is worst here, but there's still a bit of a wave on other parts of the dresser top.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thoughts for warp mitigation, and why I haven't tried them yet:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use narrower boards? (Not much of an option, since I was working with 2x4's to start with.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use hardwood? (I'm still a bit of an amateur, and I'd like to perfect my techniques with $10 worth of lumber, rather than wasting money on more expensive stock.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use quarter sawn boards? (See above reason.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what am I missing? Which, if any, of the above options would be most effective to try first? Are there other techniques I can use to mitigate warp in my future panel glue ups?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-02-02T20:34:35.393" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T20:34:35.393" Title="How can I minimize warp due to wood movement when gluing up a panel?" Tags="|wood-movement|warp|panel|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="49" CreationDate="2015-03-17T15:42:11.810" Score="15" ViewCount="24551" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an older Craftsman band saw that is very difficult to get the blade back in place and it tends to toss the blade often.  It makes it annoying to use the tool.  I'm wondering if there is a common set of causes for this behavior that I might be able to use as a diagnostic checklist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-16T14:11:45.583" LastActivityDate="2017-09-08T23:20:46.300" Title="My band saw blade consistently slips off. What are some common causes of this?" Tags="|tool-maintenance|band-saw|tool-repair|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-17T15:42:39.923" Score="45" ViewCount="118598" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I'm using my hand saw to make various cuts, I find it extremely difficult to make a straight cut. Where am I going wrong, what I am missing that the pros seem to have down?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-03-24T18:27:52.913" LastActivityDate="2022-06-09T13:19:34.363" Title="When using a hand saw, how do I cut a straight line?" Tags="|technique|hand-saw|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21" CreationDate="2015-03-17T15:43:05.897" Score="37" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Riving_knife&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Riving knife&lt;/a&gt;! That's the best method. I've heard it said that it's impossible to have kickback with a riving knife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T5swR.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f12/ridgid-4512-riving-knife-30611/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;(Image Source)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other things to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Having a fence parallel to the blade. When it's not parallel, you might pinch the blade and cause the workpiece to fly back at you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't rip boards in half. If you have a six inch board that you cut in half, you're relieving a lot of tension in the wood and may get significant wood movement while cutting. Again, you might pinch the blade and get dangerous kickback. It's always better to rough cut on the bandsaw first. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: One other thing to consider--I generally use two pushsticks like Mattias Wandel (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gdIQY_7T26k&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gdIQY_7T26k&lt;/a&gt;) so that keeps me on the side of the piece rather than behind it. That way, if kickback does happen, I'm out of harm's way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit #2: I had to come back and add one more thing tangentially related to the OP. I read an article about someone using a sawstop who &lt;a href=&quot;http://mansteading.com/sawstop-cant-save/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;turned off the safety feature and lost his thumb&lt;/a&gt;. It looks like he was thinking about kickback (and using two pushsticks) and reached across the blade to free his workpiece. Bad idea. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastEditorUserId="3" LastEditDate="2017-01-19T09:06:34.923" LastActivityDate="2017-01-19T09:06:34.923" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24" CreationDate="2015-03-17T15:43:27.630" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The end grain always absorbs more finish because of capillary action in the fibers.  The only way I can think of to prevent this would be to coat the ends in something that would block those fibers, but that too would change the appearance of the end product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T15:43:27.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3" CreationDate="2015-03-17T15:43:53.367" Score="7" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There are gouges, which like you have displayed are made from curved pieces, bowl gouges, spindle gouges etc.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;of course the parting tool is what it is, though there are different sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;skews - Angled on both front and back, can be straight, angled, or curved.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;scrapers, often round nosed but many different shapes available&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Then there are a whole host of texturing tools&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a.&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000OYJIOQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Texturing and spiraling&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b.Chatter tools&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As BrownRedHawk pointed out there are Hollowing tools as well, to make empty vessels and vases.&#xA;I'm sure there are plenty more too!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f9oSA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2015-04-24T17:03:51.757" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T17:03:51.757" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-17T15:47:10.777" Score="11" ViewCount="3017" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have several pine boards I want to use for a table, however many of them have are warped, and I need them straight. These will be used for legs and support members, so they only need to have good edges, and cupping is not a concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While typically a job reserved for an edge jointer, is there any way I can straighten the boards using my table saw? The stock has been sitting in my basement for about a year so it should be sufficiently dry at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T22:54:57.427" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T22:54:57.427" Title="Can I effectively use a table saw to straighten warped lumber?" Tags="|table-saw|jointer|warp|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27" CreationDate="2015-03-17T15:48:26.257" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am no pro but here's my tip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mark the four sides and give a 2mm deep cut on the four sides. This way when starting cut on the top the blade tends to stay aligned with the previous cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been pretty much successful with this method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drawings are better than words:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3MRXw.png&quot; alt=&quot;Image of the above with caption &amp;quot;Blade path&amp;quot; and a red line showing where to cut&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2018-11-16T21:18:42.390" LastActivityDate="2018-11-16T21:18:42.390" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24" CreationDate="2015-03-17T15:48:32.770" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard (but haven't verified) that if you sand the end grain with a higher grit it will match the stain of the face grain (can't confirm). So, if you sand to 220 on the face grain, sand to 320 on the end grain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T15:48:32.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27" CreationDate="2015-03-17T15:49:19.690" Score="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;One very important step in using a hand saw is not to force the saw.  You shouldn't be trying to force the saw through the wood.  The cutting blades are sharp.  Once you have a groove started, ease up on the saw and let the teeth do the work for you.  Sure, it takes a bit longer at first, but you are rewarded with straighter cuts with cleaner ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, when you're using a hand saw, the power from the stroke should be coming from your body stance.  If you're right handed, stand with your left foot further out than your right and lean with your left side into the direction of the cut.  Hold the saw such that your index finger is pointing along the saw in the direction you want to cut.  This will help keep things aligned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T15:49:19.690" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31" CreationDate="2015-03-17T15:54:25.420" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a couple of ways to do it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create an &quot;in feed&quot; and &quot;out feed&quot; fence for the table saw fence (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/2005/01/28/wb/&quot;&gt;http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/2005/01/28/wb/&lt;/a&gt;). The infeed is slightly narrower so as the work is passed through it, it cuts the board and should come out flat on the other side, assuming the outfeed is parallel to the blade. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Secure the warped board to a board with a known straight edge, then reference the known straight edge against the fence. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://woodworking.about.com/od/woodworkingplansdesigns/ss/JointerJig.htm&quot;&gt;http://woodworking.about.com/od/woodworkingplansdesigns/ss/JointerJig.htm&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Similar to #2, secure the warped board to another board that slides in the miter slot. Assuming the miter slot is parallel to the blade, the cuts will be straight. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried both. #1 is finicky because you have to get the saw kerf dead-on with the &quot;outfeed&quot; side. Also, it throws a LOT of dust back at you. #2 is much easier but you're limited in the length of board you can straighten. Both #2 and #3 can be used with toggle clamps to secure the workpiece (or even with screws, provided that they're clear from the blade). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both were sufficiently inconvenient that I ended up buying a jointer. It is now my favorite tool in the shop!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastEditorUserId="3" LastEditDate="2015-03-17T16:58:21.637" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T16:58:21.637" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="36" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21" CreationDate="2015-03-17T15:56:36.777" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a secondary safety measure to @dfife's excellent riving knife suggestion, anti-kickback pawls are another option. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally they install on the riving knife itself, and are spring loaded to stay in contact with the workpiece. Think of it as a one-way clutch for your lumber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that I've had issues with these scratching softwoods like pine, so I only use them if I'm still planning on heavy sanding or planing afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TwGHm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://toolguyd.com/bosch-gts1031-table-saw-review/&quot;&gt;Image source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T15:56:36.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="37" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="61" CreationDate="2015-03-17T15:59:52.353" Score="12" ViewCount="5641" Body="&lt;p&gt;I fixed up a cabinet in my bathroom, and made a bunch of cabinet doors for it. One of the cabinet doors, I made to have a frosted glass insert with some towels behind it. I used a router with a rabbeting bit with a bearing to create the rabbet to hold the glass in the frame. However, since the bit is round, it was unable to get tight into the corners. I then used a chisel to finish off the corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the result of the corners was not anywhere as close to as good a cut as the routed section. When I look at the doors in my kitchen with glass windows, professionally made, the cut is perfect including the corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a particular technique that is better for making the glass doors? Should I have routed the rabbets prior to gluing up the pieces? Or do I just need to get better at chiseling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how I could have assembled it different, as I would still have corners prior to assembly:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7peda.png&quot; alt=&quot;Illustration showing rabbet troubles.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2018-10-12T05:42:55.050" LastActivityDate="2018-10-30T00:49:52.873" Title="How to extend a routed rabbet to the inside corners of a cabinet door or other frame?" Tags="|router|cabinetry|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-17T16:00:48.980" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to visualize what you are building, but this really sounds like a job for wood glue and some tack brads.  If you're concerned about it working loose over time, you might be able to lay the ramp in a rabbet to increase the glue surface.  One thing to keep in mind is that if you've precalculated your miters, adding the rabbets would change the length and potentially the miter angle by doing it that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T16:00:48.980" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="39" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="37" CreationDate="2015-03-17T16:03:49.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming 45° miters, I have seen the rabbet cut 2 ways, the first being the way you described. The second is the rabbet is cut prior to assembling. This way you can through cut, and not end up with a semicircular end/corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time, with careful measuring and planning, try cutting the rabbet before assembling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If then pieces will be joined otherwise, a sharp chisel is most common, however there are also a number of square or right angle punches for such applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The corner can be scored with a straight edge and the waste removed with a chisel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2015-03-17T19:48:25.333" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T19:48:25.333" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="40" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19" CreationDate="2015-03-17T16:03:50.153" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general yes, you will have a much nicer finish much faster by sanding with the grain.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The larger the grit (60 vs. 100) will leave larger 'gouges' in the wood when sanding.  The grit is an 'average' size of the grains and the larger ones can leave deeper marks.  Sanding with the grain the marks are much less likely to cut across the wood grain, leaving an obvious trail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So by sanding along the grain you will need less time with finer and finer sandpaper to get the same finish.  While you can do the same thing by sanding across the grain it will take much longer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An easy example is to take a board that is pretty smooth and in one area sand across the grain, then take a much finer sand paper and sanding with the grain sand the whole board.  It becomes pretty obvious quickly the 'damage' done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Random orbit sanders do a decent job of minimizing the worst of the cross-grain cutting. I've also found that the orbit sanding disks have a smaller variance in their grit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-06-12T11:42:33.677" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T11:42:33.677" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="41" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-17T16:04:33.093" Score="14" ViewCount="1920" Body="&lt;p&gt;After I swap out my bandsaw blade for another, I'm left with a large hoop of sharp serrated metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I store this safely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2022-03-01T04:06:23.633" Title="How can I store my bandsaw blades?" Tags="|blade|band-saw|storage|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="42" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2" CreationDate="2015-03-17T16:04:46.443" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;@Peter Grace provided an excellent suggestion of placing a sacrificial board atop the countertop. An alternative solution is to mount an auxiliary zero-clearance shoe onto your circular saw shoe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fashion it out of a thin piece of plywood, rout it to match the existing shoe profile, and plunge cut through it so the opening is just the width of the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SAFETY NOTE: Installing this auxiliary shoe will keep the blade guard retracted at all times. Extra care must be taken while handling the saw, and extra time allowed for the blade to spin completely down. I would only suggest installing it when tearout needs to be minimized, and then immediately uninstalling it after the cut has been made.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T16:04:46.443" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="43" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="41" CreationDate="2015-03-17T16:06:15.880" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can &quot;collapse&quot; them into much smaller hoops (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/skills/folding-bandsaw-blades-simple-as-one-two-three/&quot;&gt;http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/skills/folding-bandsaw-blades-simple-as-one-two-three/&lt;/a&gt;). It brings it down to about a third of the size and can be stored in a drawer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the page:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hold the blade in front of you with one hand, keeping the teeth pointing away from you. Wear a glove if you've got one handy. Put your foot inside the loop and step on the blade, securing it firmly to the floor. Simultaneously rotate and lower your hand as you hold the top of the blade. By the time your hand makes three-quarters to one full revolution, the blade will have popped into three coils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KTLsq.gif&quot; alt=&quot;From Woodworking Magazine&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2015-03-17T16:49:30.997" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T16:49:30.997" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="44" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="41" CreationDate="2015-03-17T16:07:03.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the time they can be twisted onto one another and looped if you're careful. I gently twist a wire twist tie to hold them in shape. Then you can hang them up with less issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T16:07:03.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="45" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21" CreationDate="2015-03-17T16:09:29.263" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not as effective as a the riving knife and and anti  kickback pawls but a featherboard can help and it helps keep fingers safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/93nSD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T16:09:29.263" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="46" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21" CreationDate="2015-03-17T16:09:52.803" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep the larger piece between the blade and fence, and push on that with your push-stick.  Most kick-backs I've seen were when a narrow piece was pinched between the blade and fence.  And don't stand behind the piece!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be extra careful twisted or knotted lumber that may have alot of internal tension - much more likely to pinch &amp;amp; kick back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T16:09:52.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="47" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2" CreationDate="2015-03-17T16:14:15.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make a zero clearance table saw insert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It reduce chipping a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;check &lt;a href=&quot;http://woodgears.ca/delta_saw/insert.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;woodgears.ca&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T16:14:15.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="48" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24" CreationDate="2015-03-17T16:14:53.497" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are grain fillers which are often used on open grained wood like red oak to make it take a stain more evenly, using this on the end grain of a board should do the same thing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you are needing is a way to make the end grain absorb about the same amount (which is much less) as the face.  Using finer sandpaper on the ends will help a small bit, but the prepping grain fillers will do much better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T16:14:53.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="49" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26" CreationDate="2015-03-17T16:18:14.480" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your saw may be poorly adjusted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A properly tuned band-saw has the wheel axles exactly parallel and the wheels in the same plane. The axles can be adjusted using the tilt screw on the upper wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't help than it may be the crown of the wheels is too flat. Put a ruler on the wheel and see if there is enough of a crown left. If not then you will need to replace the tire or wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DEh03.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://woodgears.ca/bandsaw/bandsaw_crown.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://woodgears.ca/bandsaw/crowned_pulleys.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;image source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2015-03-17T20:15:54.700" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T20:15:54.700" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="50" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-17T16:19:17.127" Score="18" ViewCount="136659" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am creating an oak table top that will undoubtedly be exposed to a certain level of physical abuse (e.g., plates sliding across the surface) and water (e.g., glasses placed without a coaster, spills).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to finish this wood in a way that will protect it from these elements, while still providing a raw, unfinished look?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen tables in the wild that have the appearance I'm after and are exposed to a lot of abuse. For instance, the tables of this local restaurant appear almost unfinished, and water doesn't bead as if a natural oil has been applied, yet there are no water stains:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jH8hV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Unfinished restaurant tabletop with water&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zVqQj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-03-31T17:20:15.553" LastActivityDate="2019-03-11T12:46:58.110" Title="How can I achieve a raw, unfinished look to my project while protecting it from water and physical abuse?" Tags="|finishing|water-protection|physical-protection|" AnswerCount="14" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="51" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25" CreationDate="2015-03-17T16:23:21.070" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The big problem you had in this case was stress wood.  by taking 2x4's and planning them down by that much you released stresses in the wood.  It was fairly stable at it's dimensions but once changed can release stresses introduced by the kiln drying process.  There is a term for this and I can't for the life of me remember what it is right now.  But the fast drying of the kiln puts stresses on the inside of the wood.  Then ripped or in this case planned down significantly it will show up, some times immediately, others after it has a chance to interact with the ambient moisture in the air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you try it again I'd give the wood time to acclimate to it's new dimensions before gluing them up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T16:23:21.070" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="52" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="41" CreationDate="2015-03-17T16:27:48.580" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;They can be hung in an out of the way corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally on a piece of wood with a curved channel the blade rests in so the it doesn't kink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T16:27:48.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="53" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="50" CreationDate="2015-03-17T16:29:33.530" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;To keep the surface appearing as raw as possible and protect against water, I would suggest mineral oil. It will not prevent any mechanical abrasion, but will look natural and non-glossy without altering the sheen (much).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T16:29:33.530" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="54" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25" CreationDate="2015-03-17T16:32:38.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I had to pick a single issue within you approach, it would be the choice of wood.  2x4 lumber is cheap, but is generally not kiln dried.  It's almost always a soft wood which increases the chances of the wood warping later on.  Soft woods are more prone to wood movement and warping from changes in humidity levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the first thing to consider is using a harder wood than the pine / fir that's typical of 2x4 lumber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next thing to consider is letting the wood dry out properly and acclimate to your environment.  For 2x4's, I wouldn't think twice of letting the wood sit for quite a few months before even considering using them in a project like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another aspect to deal with is that you need to let the wood rest for a significant period of time after you've planed it down.  Again, a couple of months here for the wood to readjust isn't an unreasonable period of time to allow the wood to re-set.  In reality, what you're looking for is to see how the wood is going to warp (or not) after the planing.  I'd encourage planing down extra planks as some will warp beyond being usable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From there, you want to make sure you glue up the panels and make sure they are as true as possible.  The technique you described sounded like a reasonable enough approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the glue-up, consider leaving the boards a little thicker than what you'd like for the final thickness.  Regardless of how well you glue the panels together, you're likely to see some amount of warping.  Leaving the boards a little thick makes it easier for you to come back and sand things down to the dimension you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using 2x4 lumber can be done, but it does take a lot more effort and time on your part to get the results you want.  It's understandable that you want to keep some controls on your costs while you're learning.  I'd encourage you to walk around your lumber supplier's store and see what other options they may have.  Those options may cost a little bit more but may not require as much preparation work on your part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T16:32:38.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="55" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9" CreationDate="2015-03-17T16:34:05.043" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a relative who uses something akin to a steam box, without the steam, to control the moisture moving out of his green turned pieces. It is like a wooden cabinet lined with plastic, with small adjustable vents like on a cheapo charcoal grill. He allows them to stay relatively moist for a period of weeks, loosly wrapped in plastic sheeting. There is often a wet rag or open water cup in the cabinet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By slowly allowing the moisture to escape the pieces change shape slowly, thus avoiding cracking. He does a final fit, finish and seal after the piece is down to something lower moisture content (I will try to find out specifically what % moisture content).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T16:34:05.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="56" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="57" CreationDate="2015-03-17T16:34:30.807" Score="9" ViewCount="3775" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I am cutting structural joinery, mortise and tenon joints in this case, what is the maximum difference between the mortise dimensions and the tenon for a good glue joint if I am using standard PVA wood glue (also known as carpenter's glue or yellow glue, i.e. Tightbond etc.)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At what point would I need to consider another type of adhesive or simply recutting the joint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-03-05T00:39:27.470" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T00:39:27.470" Title="How much clearance/slop is allowable for a structurally sound PVA wood glue joint?" Tags="|joinery|glue|adhesives|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="57" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="56" CreationDate="2015-03-17T16:54:35.823" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my limited experience, I'd say that anything over a difference of 0.01&quot;+ is getting to be 'loose'. The pieces tenon should be able to be inserted into the mortise by hand, that is to say does not need to be hammered in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;But&lt;/strong&gt; it should have enough friction that it does when dry fitting that the tenon piece does not fall out of the tenon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is looser AND it truly needs to be blind, then I would recut. If you don't mind visible dowels or similar, It would not be unheard of to convert it to a doweled/pegged mortise and tenon joint. Personally, I think they are similarly beautiful, and can add interest if you dowel/peg with a different species of wood (contrasting color like maple and oak, or poplar and mahogany are personal favorites). In the photo below, they were adding manufactured dowels, but scraps of contrasting hardwood, or simple cut dowels could be exchanged.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.swanseatimber.co.uk/shop/images/uploads/productImages/MILB8C6_5_KIT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Adding-Accent Dowels&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:49.853" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T19:01:32.027" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="58" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="56" CreationDate="2015-03-17T16:54:56.493" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out this page: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://woodgears.ca/mortise/accuracy.html&quot;&gt;http://woodgears.ca/mortise/accuracy.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He suggests that about .001 (one thou) under for the tenons is perfect, while .005 is too loose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T16:54:56.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="59" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-17T16:57:36.483" Score="6" ViewCount="185" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am attempting to build a wooden aquarium, using 1/4&quot; x 60&quot; x 18&quot; Lexan polycarbonate for the viewing side, and 3/4&quot; plywood for the main body construction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan on using 1&quot;x 2&quot; furring strips along the seams, secured with a combination of external screws and glue, as well as around the top as bracing and for future lid/cover support. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The face frame will be 1&quot; x 4&quot; poplar, again secured with wood glue and screws. All screws will be countersunk and puttied over for a paint finish. The interior will be waterproofed with a two part marine safe epoxy paint (Such as those available from Sweetwater or Pentair), but I am unsure of how to secure the polycarbonate .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if should route the inside of the frame (Possible weakness when filled with water), or secure with mirror mounting type brackets or make an interior routed frame to fit around the polycarbonate ? Also unsure if I would mount the polycarbonate and then paint/epoxy the edges, or paint first and then epoxy/mount?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="77" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2015-12-06T12:51:27.097" LastActivityDate="2015-12-06T12:51:27.097" Title="How do I waterproof and secure a face frame on a wooden aquarium?" Tags="|technique|water-protection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="60" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="62" CreationDate="2015-03-17T17:05:45.270" Score="8" ViewCount="540" Body="&lt;p&gt;V-gouges are slightly difficult to sharpen. The inner part of the V is, in particular, difficult for me to get. I have read that you can actually use a very high grit sand paper, although I'm a little skeptical of doing this. Has anyone ever tried this, and if so, does it work? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="82" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T21:55:33.107" Title="High grit sandpaper to sharpen a v-gouge" Tags="|sharpening|tools|gouge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="61" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="37" CreationDate="2015-03-17T17:06:28.403" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can follow my additions to your drawing, I'm hoping it will explain. If you work it this way, you can make a lap joint, and you should be able to have the clean joint you are looking for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P6nIF.png&quot; alt=&quot;Way to modify the joint&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Route to the end of the left  board, then extend just the top portion of the right board to match the notch. This should give you the crisp corner you are looking for, plus it will give you a stronger joint as well. Use some small doweling if you you care to improve the strength even more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3jbDG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastEditorUserId="43" LastEditDate="2015-03-17T18:01:35.700" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T18:01:35.700" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="62" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="60" CreationDate="2015-03-17T17:11:17.573" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have sharpened similar tools. I very rarely will ever touch the interior cutting surface of a gouge, except to remove and burr that may occur. I typically do this with a small flat file. I believe they are called jewelers files and came in my pack of rat tailed and shaped files specifically for this purpose. Even when affixing sandpaper to a metal ruler or sheet of glass, it's hard to ensure even shaping/sharpening due to the slightly uneven texture of sandpaper. I once used sandpaper (as a young teen) in a vain attempt to sharpen some tools, which were quickly in need of a professional sharpening. I cannot suggest it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make the small investment in some nice, fine, small files for burr removal, and sharpen the bevel as you would any of your other tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T17:11:17.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="63" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="64" CreationDate="2015-03-17T17:12:28.957" Score="6" ViewCount="7175" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: This question was closed as a duplicate because plywood and veneer both have similar issues when being cut with a circular saw. Hopefully the answers in both questions can help out.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using a circular saw, I often find that I rip up the bottom edge of a sheet of plywood after cutting it. Usually my blade is a good 1/2 inch lower than the bottom of the plywood and I use a 24-tooth blade. Should I switch to a blade with finer teeth? Or should I change the blade height?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nz0z8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="83" LastEditorUserId="83" LastEditDate="2015-03-17T21:11:16.340" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T21:11:16.340" Title="How can I prevent tearout of plywood when cutting it with a circular saw?" Tags="|blade|circular-saw|plywood|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2015-03-17T21:09:35.413" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="64" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="63" CreationDate="2015-03-17T17:14:19.420" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using a blade with finer teeth will help significantly, but you can also use a piece of masking tape over the cut line before you cut. Additionally, if you have a piece of sacrificial wood you can put underneath the cut, that would help prevent tearout as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="68" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T17:14:19.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="65" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="71" CreationDate="2015-03-17T17:17:15.207" Score="25" ViewCount="22287" Body="&lt;p&gt;My workshop is more accurately termed my garage, with a small table saw, radial saw and a router table that I built. I don't have a central dust collection, and only the radial saw has any dust collection built in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I do any projects, I end up sweeping up a pile of sawdust. Most of my projects involve plywood of various thicknesses, poplar/pine up through oak for hardness. I don't work in anything harder/exotic (Such as purpleheart, cocobolo, etc). I know that it can be used as mulch, but I don't really have any plants that would need mulching. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I safely dispose of the bag or two of sawdust that I generate when working on a project?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="77" LastEditorUserId="77" LastEditDate="2015-03-17T17:25:13.227" LastActivityDate="2020-04-23T21:28:50.787" Title="How should I dispose of sawdust safely?" Tags="|sawdust|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="66" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="77" CreationDate="2015-03-17T17:17:55.833" Score="11" ViewCount="1914" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually notice a small amount of snipe on the ends of the boards I run through my thickness planer. It's not too deep, (&amp;lt;1/32&quot; maybe?), and doesn't cover too much of the board length (&amp;lt;4&quot; on either end), but it's noticeable if I inspect the boards closely enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard lifting the far end of the board a little higher than the section in the planer helps reduce snipe, but so far I haven't been able to &lt;strong&gt;consistently&lt;/strong&gt; get a board &lt;strong&gt;completely&lt;/strong&gt; snipe free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just for background purposes, I'm using a DW735 with the infeed/outfeed tables installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there just a minimum amount of snipe that I can always expect to have? Or can it be completely eliminated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T17:48:48.453" Title="How can I minimize snipe while thickness planing?" Tags="|thickness-planer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="67" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="76" CreationDate="2015-03-17T17:20:43.877" Score="27" ViewCount="46797" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have a small set of hand tools, but do not use some very often. One hand saw that I own (stored on a shelf with my other tools in the basement) has rusted quite a bit on the blade, and I want to avoid that occurring with my other hand tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;WD-40 seems to be not the best solution, because it stinks and often attracts dust. Is paste wax acceptable for use to prevent rust or corrosion? I'm planning on warming it up and passing it over the steel parts of the tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also heard that desiccators can be effective to dry out tool storage.  Can this be accomplished with silica gel packets? Should I also oil the tools in some way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="83" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-06-10T01:00:51.777" LastActivityDate="2019-03-12T03:30:16.270" Title="How can I store hand tools so they won't rust?" Tags="|tools|storage|oiling|" AnswerCount="18" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="68" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25" CreationDate="2015-03-17T17:20:50.423" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the humidity in your garage the same as the humidity in the room where the dresser is kept? You can start with a board with 0% moisture content, but regardless of the finish you put on it, it will take in moisture until it matches its environment. I know you can't always do this, but the best way to finish out the seasoning on your lumber is to put it in the room where it will used.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;If you're going to use flatsawn framing grade lumber, go through the pile and look for boards that came from the same slab as the pith. (Do not use a board containing the pith itself!) Looking at the board from the end grain, these will have almost straight, vertical grain. These boards are effectively quartersawn.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/6e/Flatsawn.svg/500px-Flatsawn.svg.png&quot; /&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Image stolen from Wikipedia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="81" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:50.007" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T17:20:50.423" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="69" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="66" CreationDate="2015-03-17T17:23:14.987" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think anyone has made a planer yet that has no snipe. You can tweak the infeed/outfeed tables on the DW735 so that they slope downwards (infeed) and upwards (outfeed), but I would not make them slope by more than about 1/16th over their length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The DW735 is already about as clean as you can get from a &quot;lunchbox&quot; planer, only a larger industrial stationary planer will have less snipe, usually due to a longer 1-piece bed made of cast iron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="68" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T17:23:14.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="70" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="63" CreationDate="2015-03-17T17:26:11.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to cathode's excellent suggestions, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/sawing-solutions/circular-saw/?page=2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wood Magazine&lt;/a&gt; has a nice explanation of some techniques.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Particularly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Score the cutline.  Make one very shallow cut where you cut through the top layer (where the splintering will occur), which helps control the splintering, then make a second cut through the rest of the wood.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Support the cut, either along the side or from underneath (with a piece of sacrificial wood, as cathode also refers to)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attach a piece of wood to your saw's footplate (a &quot;shoe&quot;) to reduce the clearance from the plywood.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T17:26:11.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="71" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="65" CreationDate="2015-03-17T17:32:42.010" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;One good use of sawdust is to make into a fire starting device.  Sawdust is quite flammable, and obviously has a lot of surface area.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;WARNING: Be safe. Certain glues (such as may be used in plywood), most finishes, and most pressure-treated woods may be dangerous to burn, due to the release of poisonous chemicals. Be sure that you are only burning wood that is definitely not toxic.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/dust-collection/sawdust/?page=1&quot;&gt;This article from Wood Magazine&lt;/a&gt; explains how to make them; basically, put them in a cup of some sort (such as a muffin tin) and add paraffin wax or some other flammable substance (I've seen homemade biodiesel used, for example).  Then let it dry into a cake.  It will then be a good fire starter for a campfire or your fireplace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14" LastEditorUserId="14" LastEditDate="2015-03-17T21:56:52.697" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T21:56:52.697" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="72" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="144" CreationDate="2015-03-17T17:36:03.903" Score="8" ViewCount="9747" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a coffee table that has a lot of decorative work along the outside, such as flowers/leaves and rosettes that are part of the original woodwork (i.e., not created and fastened on after the fact).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to refinish the table, but the commercial stain remover that I used did not get all the stain out of the recessed parts of the decorative carving. Additionally, there are stain remnants in the notches cut out for the center glass pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I remove the stain from the notches and the decorative carving without ruining the aesthetics of the piece?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="77" LastActivityDate="2019-03-10T15:33:10.513" Title="Removing existing stain from intricate woodwork?" Tags="|sanding|refinishing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="73" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="161" CreationDate="2015-03-17T17:36:48.933" Score="10" ViewCount="2505" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a low angle jack plane (Stanley #62, bevel up) and it has the ability to adjust the blade side to side when I lock down the blade and iron, which supposedly is to allow you to even out the depth of cut across the plane's width, but I can't get it deep enough on one side. No matter how I position it, one side cuts deeper than the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this correctable simply in the method of sharpening or is there something else I need to do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the picture is a poor representation, but the plane sole is on the right and you can see the blade protruding out as the camera looks down the length of the sole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cdN53.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T01:16:48.680" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T23:46:08.567" Title="How can I adjust my hand plane to take an even cut across its width?" Tags="|technique|sharpening|plane|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="74" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="80" CreationDate="2015-03-17T17:37:40.560" Score="6" ViewCount="3154" Body="&lt;p&gt;The title pretty much sums it all up. When selecting quarter sawn lumber, why should the very center (pith) be avoided?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastActivityDate="2017-02-17T21:44:15.900" Title="Why should I avoid using the pith section of quarter sawn lumber?" Tags="|quarter-sawn|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="75" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="66" CreationDate="2015-03-17T17:41:51.577" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a general rule the higher the feed rollers are set on the planer table the more likely that the last bit of the board will be sniped as the wood moves off of the first roller and is levered upward toward the cutter head. Table rollers vary from planer to planer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to lower the table rollers all the way down so that they were below the table surface, then the friction of the wood as it travels across the planer table would generally make feeding the wood through the planer much more difficult. However this does reduce (and can sometimes eliminate) sniping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One practice I've seen used to reduce sniping, and thus general waste on a project, is to lower the feed rollers to the same level or below the planer table and then apply a liberal coat of paste wax to the planer table. The wax reduces the friction enough that most planers can then feed the wood though the planer without jamming. If you carefully support the boards on the out feed side of the planer the then you should see a reduction on sniping on &lt;em&gt;light&lt;/em&gt; cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heavy cuts on any but the most industrial planers will still result in some sniping as the table and or cutter head can undergo some 'loading' under a heavy cut. However if you make your last few passes taking off &amp;lt; 0.005&quot; per cut then you can nearly eliminate the snipe by lowering the table rollers and waxing the planer table. It can take some practice but a very aggressive snipe can usually be prevented in my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note&lt;/em&gt;: never use silicone based lubricants around the shop, or in this case for lubricating a planer table. They are pure evil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T17:41:51.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="76" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="67" CreationDate="2015-03-17T17:44:47.593" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have something akin to an answer, but I might consider it more like advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rust begets Rust- purely anecdotal, but I feel like rust left unattended promotes more rust. I would first work to rid yourself of as much rust as possible. Things like naval jelly, baking soda and similar will be your friends.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Moisture is the enemy - Whether it be your home, your tools, your electronics or otherwise, moisture tends to be an issue. If you haven't already, I would invest in a relatively inexpensive dehumidifier. I keep my basement around 35% humidity and love it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Oil - The only thing I know if that consistently prevents rust of iron containing items is oil. Wax is ok, and can be effective, but nothing beats a very fine mist of mineral oil (or really just about any oil that won't go sour, and a cotton rag. I find mineral oil has the least effect on the tools and the wood they cut. It takes a microscopic thin layer to prevent that oxygen from getting to your tools.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-10-07T18:40:56.520" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T18:40:56.520" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="77" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="66" CreationDate="2015-03-17T17:48:48.453" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple things that haven't been mentioned yet:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;feed several pieces in one after another. If I feed piece B before piece A exits, the rollers don't have a chance to drop (and hence, there's no chance for snipe). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Similar to #1, you can build a jig to prevent snipe. Take two strips of sacrificial wood that are the same height as your workpiece but longer. Screw these pieces to the workpiece and feed it through. The planer will then snipe the jig, but not the workpiece. Here's a picture:&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gFb2Z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This will minimize snipe, but won't eliminate it--lift the workpiece vertically as you feed it in and as you pull it out. It seems counter-intuitive, but it will make the cut much shallower than it otherwise would (with snipe). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T17:48:48.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="78" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="96" CreationDate="2015-03-17T17:52:47.897" Score="17" ViewCount="2543" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently saw a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fp5n7SpzGLE&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; on how to build a jig for turning stock on a table saw. It seemed unsafe to me, as the motorized jig was advancing stock sideways into the rotating saw blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VMpzK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems like a very useful technique, but I'm primarily concerned about the safety aspects of it. Although from what I understand, cove cutting using a table saw is a generally accepted practice, which seems fairly similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastEditorUserId="3562" LastEditDate="2019-03-14T13:04:56.733" LastActivityDate="2019-03-14T13:04:56.733" Title="Is this table saw lathe jig safe?" Tags="|table-saw|safety|turning|lathe|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="79" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="63" CreationDate="2015-03-17T17:59:57.610" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many ways to eliminate tearout in plywood. Some are simple techniques you can apply in specific situations, and others require additional materials or accessories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the &quot;good&quot; side facing down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are cutting through 2 or more pieces of plywood at the same time, layer them so the &quot;good&quot; sides are not facing the outside on the top or bottom. (Note that you should use a blade with fewer teeth and deeper gullets if you are cutting through a thick stack, otherwise your blade may bind or burn.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/tools/reviews/a3602/4283497/&quot;&gt;zero-clearance straightedge guide&lt;/a&gt; (aka &quot;homemade track saw&quot;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tape over the cut line before making the cut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Score the cutline with a utility knife before making a cut with the circular saw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make a very shallow scoring cut with the circular saw before making your through cut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a very sharp blade with a high tooth count (e.g., 60 or more teeth for a 7-1/2&quot; circular saw).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put sacrificial pieces of material on the top or bottom of the piece of plywood along the cut line.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut to rough dimensions first, then clean up the cut on a table saw with a zero-clearance throat plate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T17:59:57.610" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="80" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="74" CreationDate="2015-03-17T18:03:01.740" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pith is what remains from the time when the tree was but a lad. It's soft and weak. Using it in woodworking would be like making something out of a bush. When the pith is exposed on two faces of a board, it will often crack and fall out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also under stress. If you look at 4x4 posts at HD or Lowes, you'll notice that many of them have a split that runs from one face down to the pith. If you're going to make something that includes the pith (called &quot;boxed heart&quot;), you can make a cut that mimics this split and reduces the tension. Japanese woodworkers like to make this cut and then insert a piece of softwood to cover it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="81" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T18:03:01.740" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="81" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-17T18:06:17.653" Score="12" ViewCount="208" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often find myself guessing based on what I have on hand. Are there some objective guidelines for how to select the proper size? I'm usually thinking about three attributes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Length&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Length is probably the easier dimension to eyeball, but I imagine there is some logic there I could be applying to be more consistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Diameter&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diameter is more difficult. Generally the gripping strength is best achieved by increasing the depth of the hole (+ fastener length), meaning a long skinny screw will hold tighter than a fatty short one (provided we don't go to the extremes). My best guess is to use thicker screws when shear resilience is needed, where the weight of the workpiece or the way in which it is to be used will result in lateral force against the screws. But again, I always make my best guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thread Pitch/Depth&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one is easy at a high level. Harder woods need a narrower thread pitch, softer woods need a wider thread pitch (and deeper threads). Usually I only have two choices (sometimes fewer), but perhaps every type of wood has its ideal thread profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But really this all boils down to guestimation, which I already do. What about more objective metrics I could put on a cheat sheet somewhere in my shop (or better yet, something I could remember)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="90" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T05:13:27.430" Title="How do I identify the appropriate size fastener for my application?" Tags="|joinery|fasteners|screws|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="82" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21" CreationDate="2015-03-17T18:15:25.403" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kickback can occur when the back of the blade gets pinched in the kerf, when a piece of wood is pinched between the blade and fence, or when a piece of wood is lifted off the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Anti-kickback equipment&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have mentioned, a &lt;strong&gt;riving knife&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;anti-kickback pawls&lt;/strong&gt;, and &lt;strong&gt;fence-mounted featherboards&lt;/strong&gt; help protect against kickback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If using a table-mounted featherboard, make sure it is positioned &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; the blade (infeed side). If you position the featherboard alongside the blade or after the blade, the featherboard will actually &lt;em&gt;cause&lt;/em&gt; your wood to pinch the blade and cause kickback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other types of equipment include fence-mounted rollers and manual or automatic feeders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fence-mounted rollers&lt;/strong&gt; are similar in function to fence-mounted featherboards but also help push the stock against the fence. The rollers are typically designed to only rotate in one direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TIho7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Board Buddies fence-mounted rollers&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h1gcI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Clear Cut stock guides&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Manual feeder:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mZTui.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Duelen Safety Fence&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Power Feeder:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QH7vT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Power Feeder&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;A splitter is not as good as a riving knife&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have an older saw, you may have a splitter instead of a riving knife.  Although a splitter and riving knife both prevent the blade from being pinched, a splitter is always positioned at the same height, while a riving knife raises and lowers with the blade. This allows the riving knife to maintain a constant distance from the back of the blade. This means that when the blade is lowered for a shallow cut, there is a huge gap between the back of the blade and the splitter, as illustrated in a &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/topics/86698#first-new&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;kickback incident analyzed on LumberJocks&lt;/a&gt;. A splitter only performs as well as a riving knife when the blade is raised to full height--which itself is considered unsafe unless you need the full height of the blade to make a cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Crosscuts&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some additional safety measures you can employ when making crosscuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a sled for crosscutting.  The sled cradles your workpiece all the way through the blade and pushes both pieces past the blade after the cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aVwxM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Crosscut sled&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't use your miter gauge and fence together. If you want to use the fence as a stop to cut off consistent lengths, clamp a piece of wood to the fence before the blade (on the infeed side). This way, the cutoff cannot be trapped between the blade and fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Think through the entire cut before you make it&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you make any cut with any power tool, you should carefully think through the entire cut, from start to finish. Some of the concerns mentioned below can directly contribute to (or prevent) kickback, but all of them are important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How will you push the entire length of the workpiece into, through, and past the blade?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there anything that could potentially block the path of the workpiece?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Where will each hand be through the entire operation?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What will happen to the offcut?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will you be cutting through any knots or other unstable features?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What will happen when the workpiece is past the blade? Will it teeter on the back end of the saw (and possibly fall off)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you need infeed or outfeed supports?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Where is the power switch, and how will you turn off the saw if the workpiece gets stuck and you cannot push it all the way through the blade? Can you turn it off with your knee so you don't have to move your hands?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Stand clear&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it doesn't necessarily do anything to prevent kickback, you should always try to stand clear of the likely path of a kickback. In particular, stand off to the side of your workpiece if possible, and if you're using the fence do not stand in the zone between the blade and the fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="869" LastEditDate="2015-07-07T00:50:37.810" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T00:50:37.810" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="83" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="86" CreationDate="2015-03-17T18:16:23.547" Score="18" ViewCount="830" Body="&lt;p&gt;I only use my table saw and circular saw, both with ripping blades, a few times a year.  How can I tell when it's time to replace them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine I'm not going to lose them to wear, but then again, maybe I've hit an occasional nail.  I don't know whether storage and rust cause degradation or if any rust is superficial and gets knocked off when I use them again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T10:05:58.080" Title="How do I know it's time to replace my circular saw blade?" Tags="|blade|table-saw|circular-saw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="84" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="81" CreationDate="2015-03-17T18:17:50.240" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;One major issue you should take into account is the weight being supported by the fastner.  Most manufacturers will publish weight/load tables for their fastners, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.strongtie.com/products/fasteners/quikdrive_general_load_tables.html&quot;&gt;Quik Drive's table&lt;/a&gt;.  That gives the various strengths of the fastner.  You should then calculate how much strength you need - for example, you have a deck that is going to be big enough for 10 people to stand on, plus maybe 100 pounds of lumber; make sure your fastners combined (number plus individual strength) support 2500 pounds or more.  (For decks, I imagine local code would tell you how much to assume, but for other uses like chairs or tables, you can typically figure it out.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your load strength suggests a longer or thicker fastner than your project allows for, you may need more fastners and/or a higher quality fastner that will hold up better to the stresses; or consider a different design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T18:17:50.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="85" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20" CreationDate="2015-03-17T18:18:20.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as a bevel-down plane iron's sharpening angle is more acute than the bedding angle, that face of the iron doesn't see any action, so it doesn't really matter. It's normal to sharpen a plane iron to around 25&amp;deg;.&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Chisels will vary depending on their purpose: for mortising, you want a stouter, wider angle; for paring, a finer, narrower angle. Start with 12&amp;deg; and see what you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="81" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T18:18:20.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="86" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="83" CreationDate="2015-03-17T18:20:52.227" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your blade will start to show signs of dullness. These include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Binding&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Excessive force required to advance cut&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Excessive tearing/chipout&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Burning the wood&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It helps if you can remember the &quot;feel&quot; of cutting with a sharp blade to help recognize these signs. One of them alone may be a result of improper technique. But when multiple signs stack up, you can be more sure that it's time to switch out blades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T18:20:52.227" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="87" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="88" CreationDate="2015-03-17T18:21:46.013" Score="27" ViewCount="10709" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't use gloves when operating my power tools, but I know a few people who do--for instance, when operating a router with two hands (not in a router table). Is this safe, and if so, what other power tools are safe to operate with gloves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="38" LastEditDate="2015-03-17T19:10:52.570" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T14:45:07.613" Title="When, if ever, is it safe to use gloves with power tools?" Tags="|safety|power-tools|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="88" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="87" CreationDate="2015-03-17T18:27:48.453" Score="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anything tool that rotates is generally something to avoid using gloves with. Tools to definitely avoid glove use for incude:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lathes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Circular saws (including table saws, miter saws, and radial arm saws)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bandsaws&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Routers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Planers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill presses&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The list goes on...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gloves can give you a false sense of security. They will do little to protect you from a cut, and pose a huge hazard of getting caught in the tool and pulling your hand in to get mangled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only tool off the top of my head that I'd consider using gloves with would be an orbital sander, since it may help with vibration absorption, and the sander doesn't provide a big risk of mangling your hand. If you need a minimal amount of protection from splinters, you could try nitrile or latex gloves, which will cut/break away before pulling in your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to gloves, the following can also be a hazard around power tools:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Watches&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Long hair&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loose clothing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ties&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to protect your hands is to be very deliberate about every movement you make around the saw, and keep your hands away from the blade by using a push stick or push block. If the cuts you are making are simple straight lines, get a miter gauge that slides along the miter slot that is present in most saw tables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastEditorUserId="83" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T03:28:12.127" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T03:28:12.127" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="89" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-17T18:31:31.023" Score="20" ViewCount="11536" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to cut a hole in my desk (3/4&quot; furniture grade plywood with an oak veneer) to run cables through. I'll be using a hole saw and my cordless drill. Since this is going to be very visible, I want to be sure that the hole is perfectly vertical, and that I get it right on the first try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I ensure that the drill is angled correctly? Should I even be trying this with a hand-held drill? If not, what tools should I think about using?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T21:52:03.573" Title="How do I ensure my drill is perfectly vertical before cutting a hole in my desk?" Tags="|drilling|hole-saw|furniture|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="90" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-17T18:37:57.640" Score="5" ViewCount="4090" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know about cutting a line on the concave side to loosen it, and then gluing in strips of wood once flat, and I know of using water on one side and then laying things on top to help it dry flat. Are there any other ways of making warped wood flat again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="97" LastActivityDate="2017-06-20T01:58:41.220" Title="What are reliable ways of flattening out warped wood?" Tags="|warp|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="91" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="89" CreationDate="2015-03-17T18:40:08.763" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually the cutting face of a hole saw is enough to give a good reference for verticality. If you're really concerned, google &quot;portable drill guide&quot; for some products that can help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This won't work well with hole saws, but if you're using a simple twist bit, auger bit, etc. you can put two squares on the desktop at 90&amp;deg; apart as a visual reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="81" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T18:40:08.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="92" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="89" CreationDate="2015-03-17T18:42:26.903" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;In two words: Pilot hole&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a drill with the handy leveling bubble, this can be handy. Otherwise line up your drill bit using something akin to a speed square or carpenters square (checking more than 1 axis), then drill your pilot hole. Not only is the pilot hole beneficial, but I find it makes your accustomed to what arrangement/direction you will be drilling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will help most if you are using the kind of pilot hole with a center drill bit that protrudes from the barrel/shank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, they do make a jig of sorts that bolts to your handheld drill and provides a guide and baseplate. The creates a pseudo drill press-like device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T18:42:26.903" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="93" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="65" CreationDate="2015-03-17T18:46:42.690" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well it is good for mulch and finding neighbors that could/would use it is one option.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could always join your local &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.freecycle.org/&quot;&gt;Freecycle&lt;/a&gt; and post it on there.  Someone will likely want to come pick it up.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some places might take it as they would regular yard waste, leaves grass clippings etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course this is for primarily clean (non-treated) sawdust. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T18:46:42.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="94" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="203" CreationDate="2015-03-17T18:47:12.143" Score="9" ViewCount="719" Body="&lt;p&gt;The posts and rails shown are 20-year-old pressure-treated wood.  Is there any maintenance that could have prevented the posts from decaying through the exposed end grain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any restoration that can extend the service life of the existing wood?  E.g., I have heard of penetrating plasticizers that can shore up exterior wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is 20 years about the expected service life of outdoor pressure-treated wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ellv6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastEditorUserId="94" LastEditDate="2015-03-17T19:34:19.183" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T19:09:26.027" Title="Can pressure-treated posts be restored, or better preserved?" Tags="|pressure-treated|restoration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="95" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="67" CreationDate="2015-03-17T18:51:18.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use Silicone lubricant, not WD-40. This is mostly for my table tops and such.  March/April I go through my shop and use Silicone on all my metal topped machines (table saw, joiner etc) to keep them from rusting in as the moisture content in the air rises and the tops are still cold condensing the water and causing rust.  One good thing about Silicone is that it doesn't leave an oily residue, especially not on wood when you use the tool later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T20:06:06.527" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T20:06:06.527" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="96" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="78" CreationDate="2015-03-17T18:54:35.497" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the word 'safe' here might be relative. Just like modern cars are safe, when driven on the road, and obeying traffic laws. I think in this case the answer is a profound &lt;strong&gt;NO&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Table saws are 'safe' when used for cutting wood that is against the table, and the stop, preferably using push sticks and a riving knife. I see none of those things going on here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen lots of people do things not as the tools was intended without getting hurt, but most of those same people have stories about nearly losing a finger, or having a piece of lumber being tossed across the workshop. Why take that risk, when there is a perfectly good tool designed to turn wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T18:54:35.497" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="97" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-17T19:05:08.510" Score="11" ViewCount="33746" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a pergola (~10'x10') on my patio (and plan to build a gazebo out in the yard), but before I build it, I want to make sure I'm using the best option for lumber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I use pressure-treated lumber in such an application? Or is something like cedar better? Is there another alternative I should consider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2015-03-17T19:52:01.683" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T20:11:59.470" Title="When building an outdoor structure, should I use pressure-treated lumber or something like cedar?" Tags="|pressure-treated|lumber|outdoor|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="98" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-17T19:06:46.393" Score="16" ViewCount="3029" Body="&lt;p&gt;When is it appropriate to use nails to join wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than for rough framing, the only common accepted use I can think of is for tacking trim, but even there it doesn't quite feel right because invariably the nailguns aren't set properly so unless a good painter comes after them with wood filler each brad leaves a divot.  And for all I know &quot;real&quot; woodworkers rabbet and glue all their trim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is brad nailing still considered a good practice for trim?  And are there other permanent installations where nails are appropriate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T12:09:13.753" Title="What is the proper place of nails in woodworking?" Tags="|joinery|fasteners|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="99" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="103" CreationDate="2015-03-17T19:07:58.443" Score="8" ViewCount="3407" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering building a kitchen table. This would be my second. I plan on edge joining planks. Last time, despite using dowels for alignment, there were often ridges between adjoining boards. To make the surface even, I used a belt sander, then subsequently followed that up with about 900 hours of sanding (okay....slight exaggeration). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This time around, I plan on smoothing it with a hand plane then skipping to a 220 grit sandpaper. This will even out the bumps and create a smooth surface, but I'm worried about tear-out. I know that hand planing against the grain will generally produce tear-out, but with so many planks glued together (some, or many of which will change grain direction), how can I avoid tear-out? Am I doomed to hours of sanding?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastEditorUserId="3" LastEditDate="2016-03-09T19:26:14.273" LastActivityDate="2018-11-06T13:06:33.410" Title="Hand planing edge joined board without tearout" Tags="|sanding|hand-planing|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="78" CreationDate="2015-03-17T19:12:30.807" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think my biggest concern is that I don't have a good feel for how this system will behave.  When I'm about to perform some action with a power tool, it's very deliberate, and I've thought through the type of bad outcomes that might result.  For example (not a complete list by any stretch)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Table saw: Kick back&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Miter saw: blade binding&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Band saw: blade breaks and spools out across the table&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill press: bit binds, spins work piece&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowing this, I can anticipate problems and mitigate them.  I place my body a certain way with respect to the tool, I hold the piece or tool in a certain way, use additional clamps, finger boards, etc. as appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just don't have a good feel for how this thing is going to behave when something goes wrong, or even which ways it could go wrong.  It looks like it works very well, but I'd be damn careful with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T19:12:30.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="94" CreationDate="2015-03-17T19:12:49.893" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remembered a product my father made me use when working on some pressure treated framing for a gazebo. Pressure treating rarely penetrates 100%, so any cut ends or drilled holes tend to be the first point of more severe decay. he made me paint/cover any cut ends and drilled holes with a clear, smelly liquid. I believe it was called something like a 'clear wood preservative' and may have been made by 'Cuprinol'. It did not appear to work like polyurethane, but seemed to be truly a preservative, not a sealant (although they do make those also).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To his credit, this gazebo is still standing and shows nothing other than weathering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think anything like this rated for outside would help increase the lifespan of exterior wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also worth noting there are grades of pressure treated lumber, of which, I'm sure there are some grades 'better' than others at not breaking down. One of which would be 'UC5C' which is rated for direct contact to souther salt and brackish water (think dock building).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T19:12:49.893" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="98" CreationDate="2015-03-17T19:15:11.243" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very good question. I'll tell you how &lt;em&gt;I&lt;/em&gt; use nails, though I'm not sure this is the &quot;correct&quot; answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I don't have the patience to wait for the glue to dry. Typically, nailing is only needed to secure two pieces of wood until the wood dries (provided you have long grain to long grain contact). So, I pull out my brad nailer so I can move onto doing something else while the glue dries. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I don't care how it looks. When building shop furniture, for example, I almost always nail my drawers together because I don't care about a nail being visible in a drawer. Same goes for jigs. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When it's easily concealed. This is what you're referring to--trim. The hole it leaves is so small that it's easily masked by putty. (Although, if you're staining it, that's a different story). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Similar to #1--when the angle is such that I can't find a way to clamp it. For example, if I have trim that's angular, I can't place weights on it and it may be too wide to clamp it, so I'll nail it. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll keep thinking and edit if I can think of any more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T19:15:11.243" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="99" CreationDate="2015-03-17T19:18:57.157" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would highly suggest a cabinet scraper. It is designed/used for this explicit purpose: smoothing the location where two separate pieces of wood meet, and smoothing their surface to be uniform. It is faster than sanding &lt;strong&gt;AND&lt;/strong&gt; by its nature created a flat surface, where sander could create waves or organic and smooth surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T19:18:57.157" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="67" CreationDate="2015-03-17T19:34:48.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bluing_%28steel%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bluing&lt;/a&gt; is used to protect firearms from rusting, and according to that Wiki article, has been used to protect tools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remember from my hunting days that we would have a bottle of bluing, and give everything a good wipe down at the end of the trip. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T19:34:48.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="90" CreationDate="2015-03-17T19:42:21.243" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Common wisdom is that if you have access to a jointer and planer, you will joint the board on the cupped side to flatten it, then use the planer to produce a smooth edge on the opposite side.  If you don't have a jointer, there are some jigs available that can attempt to replicate a jointer's function on just a planer.  If you don't have a planer, well, you'll be stuck using a hand plane to shave the warped portions off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I failed to mention is that one can also use a router to flatten a board; it seems a bit like a kludge but I wager many people have used this technique in absence of a jointer or planer.  The Wood Whisperer has a good video about this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qtkBZHLJyD0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TWW 174 on YouTube&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastEditorUserId="34" LastEditDate="2015-03-17T19:49:47.360" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T19:49:47.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="50" CreationDate="2015-03-17T19:51:16.740" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used a water based polyurethane matte finish on an oak table recently. It gives a slight amber tint but is protective against water and alcohol. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="102" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T19:51:16.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="97" CreationDate="2015-03-17T19:57:38.970" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an excellent question (IMO). I've worked on a number of different projects like this. I think for things like a pergola, cedar would be a great choice. It is relatively light, is easily worked and weathers beautifully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pressure treated is great when it won't be visible. I find it does not stain or seal exceptionally well, however it is strong and dependable. Think stringers and joists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're willing to spend a little more, one of the most weather resistant AND strong woods I've worked with is Mahogany. It is available in a number of different forms. I've even use an engineered 4x4 post that was made up of no less than 15 pieces/strips laminated together. They were pin straight, and unless viewed from a cut end, you would not know they were not solid mahogany (which would have been ridiculously expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also a number of great systems that are effectively cases that surround another structure. Think looks of 4x4 timber, without the weight and possible bowing and twisting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T19:57:38.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="97" CreationDate="2015-03-17T19:58:16.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the answer is, &quot;it's up to you&quot; and &quot;it depends&quot;. All materials will have pros and cons.  PT lumber is cheaper than cedar, but cedar looks better (IMO) and smells nice.  Cedar fades over time whereas composite materials might hold up better.  PT lumber requires coated screws and composite materials sometimes require specialized screws.  Other woods might need to be stained and sealed whereas cedar naturally resists rotting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a lot of scenarios, you would use multiple materials. Take a deck for example, all the supporting posts and joists will usually be PT, but the decking might be cedar or another material like a composite board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need to take into account cost, lumber availability, expected longevity, and your skillset as some materials are more difficult to work with or require specialized tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T19:58:16.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="89" CreationDate="2015-03-17T20:00:16.400" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;A drill guide will help you maintain the required angle, in your case, 90 degrees perpendicular to the desk. These are readily available at your local home improvement or tool store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/400/05/05534eb7-0230-4b1d-9f68-f9297f412a6f_400.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Drill Guide http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/400/05/05534eb7-0230-4b1d-9f68-f9297f412a6f_400.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T20:00:16.400" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="65" CreationDate="2015-03-17T20:02:38.237" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will depend on your city and what they accept in the various garbage collection programs, but in my area at least, saw dust can be disposed of in our &quot;green bin&quot; program along with other organic materials like food, small dead animals, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T20:02:38.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="97" CreationDate="2015-03-17T20:11:59.470" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's in contact with or partly buried in soil, and isn't adjacent to food plants, go with PT; it'll probaly last several times as long. If it's above grade and will dry out berween rainstorms, cedar will probably do just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that these days there are other alternatives too -- some of the tropical hardwoods are moderately affordable and &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; resistant to bugs and rot. I'm seeing a fair amount of Ipe used for porch decks, partly because it's also a &lt;strong&gt;very&lt;/strong&gt; hard wood -- so dense it sinks in water, which is one of the reasons it's sometimes referred to as ironwood. Warning: ipe wears out sawblades quickly (carbide recommended) and some folks develop an allergy to the sawdust. I'd be a bit more willing to have ipe near my veggies than equivalent amounts of PT, but that should still be checked on; anything bugs and fungi won't eat should be treated as potentially toxic to humans, and I've never heard how much ipe leaches into surrounding soil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note: this question partly overlaps with the home improvement discussion at diy.stackexchange.com. Folks there might be able to give you numbers for how long PT fenceposts last vs. cedar.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T20:11:59.470" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="99" CreationDate="2015-03-17T20:16:23.257" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As BrownRedHawk said, a cabinet scraper is definitely the way to finish the job. If you want to use a hand plane for the &quot;rough&quot; part, you can skew the plane at an angle. This will effectively lower the angle of the iron and reduce tear out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at the following image, &lt;strong&gt;Smoothing Cut&lt;/strong&gt;, taken from &lt;a href=&quot;http://workshopcompanion.com/KnowHow/Techniques/Jointing_Planing/4_Using_Hand_Plane/4_Using_Hand_Plane.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gZMXS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gZMXS.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="81" LastEditorUserId="81" LastEditDate="2018-04-23T15:20:42.130" LastActivityDate="2018-04-23T15:20:42.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="99" CreationDate="2015-03-17T20:21:42.297" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly if you're plane blade is properly sharpened you can plane end-grain without tear-out. Get a sharpening kit with some good diamond stones and look up the process of hand sharpening your tools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="105" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2018-11-06T06:29:40.870" LastActivityDate="2018-11-06T06:29:40.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="65" CreationDate="2015-03-17T20:21:51.950" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you do composting in your garden, sawdust is good to add to your compost bin. You will need to balance it out with enough &quot;green&quot; items to compost it though, so it will not work for large quantities of sawdust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T20:21:51.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="115" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="599" CreationDate="2015-03-17T20:31:36.723" Score="20" ViewCount="14509" Body="&lt;p&gt;I get wood from many places, including pallets. Often the wood will be of several varieties. By matching color and grain style, I can group similar types of recovered wood planks together. How do I determine which piece is what type of wood (e.g., pine, alder, ash, maple, etc.)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="107" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-06-19T01:32:01.533" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T07:12:37.657" Title="How do I determine what type of wood a board/plank is made from?" Tags="|wood|wood-identification|wood-species|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="115" CreationDate="2015-03-17T20:41:56.357" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A large part is experience and comparison to known species. It gets easier if you can narrow it down to possible woods. However, pallets can literally be anything that made a board big enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-identification-guide/&quot;&gt;The Wood Database&lt;/a&gt; is one place trying to put together a list of attributes from all known woods. I think there are several others too, but some (all?) want a little money to support their endeavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Color and grain are two very big indicators of what the wood can be; density helps as well. Many woods have a distinctive smell too. Of course, the most important part is having a fresh cut or planed section to work with. Stains, aging, and other issues can easily hide a woods true character.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also lots of books out there for &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1861083777&quot;&gt;wood identification&lt;/a&gt; but I don't think any of them are all inclusive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="112" LastEditDate="2015-03-17T21:02:06.830" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T21:02:06.830" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="117" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="120" CreationDate="2015-03-17T20:53:51.257" Score="8" ViewCount="883" Body="&lt;p&gt;The current trend at my local DIY stores is to staple a tag to the butt of the wood for pricing.  I usually pull these out by sliding the tip of a screw driver between the wood and the staple and pulling it out, &quot;usually&quot; being the key word. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I rip a lot of wood to my required size, so once in while the staple is still in wood when it goes through the saw.  Are these staples made to be saw blade safe (like will not harm the blade or ME)?  If not, what is the best tool for removing price staples from the butt of the wood? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T17:51:03.393" Title="Are the staples used to tag wood at the DIY store saw safe?" Tags="|table-saw|foreign-object|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="50" CreationDate="2015-03-17T20:54:06.620" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another option to consider is wax. In this case, butcher block paste wax would be a traditional option (which is edible/non-toxic, like the wax on apples). It has similar constraints as the aforementioned mineral oil. Paste waxes also come in various tints which leave an unfinished look but allow some slight modification to color of the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastEditorUserId="111" LastEditDate="2016-06-02T14:29:29.453" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T14:29:29.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="119" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7683" CreationDate="2015-03-17T20:59:33.037" Score="9" ViewCount="15546" Body="&lt;p&gt;My son found a nice thick branch that I want to turn into a walking stick for him. Unfortunately, I can't tell what kind of wood it is exactly. The bark is still partially on and doesn't seem loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I treat and finish it, so that the bark will stay on while the stick will still be protected from the elements?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="64" LastEditorUserId="38" LastEditDate="2015-03-19T02:43:13.813" LastActivityDate="2018-08-28T13:28:17.067" Title="How to finish a branch to keep the bark (partially) on?" Tags="|finishing|physical-protection|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="117" CreationDate="2015-03-17T21:01:09.093" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well most of the staples are not very long so if you are not just 'nipping the tip' you shouldn't have to worry about them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, while they won't do much to a blade, (though I wouldn't say they are 'good' for it) they can be dangerous to you if you are cutting close enough to the edge where the staple might be cut.  In that case it could become a small sharp projectile, so removing it would be a good idea.  I usually use screw drivers and/or pliers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T21:01:09.093" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="37" CreationDate="2015-03-17T21:04:35.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't tried either, but:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) There are spring-loaded &quot;corner chisels&quot; which supposedly help in squaring these up&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) I've seen folks report using the square outer chisel from a mortising head as a homebrew version of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're doing it by hand, remember that the first step is to usethe chisel to &quot;define your lines&quot;, possibly with a straight-edge to assist, then pare back to those lines; repeat until you reach desired depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T21:04:35.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="122" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="130" CreationDate="2015-03-17T21:04:38.600" Score="8" ViewCount="718" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a project in mind that creates a removable panel ceiling, made of wood, in my finished basement. Part of the current design is fastening boards to the 1950's ceiling/floor joists that the ceiling panels will be suspended from. I want to use finish nails installed with a Pneumatic nailer.  The wood will be stained a light color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I calculate how much a nail will support? I don't want to use too few nails and have the ceiling fall down, and I don't want to use more than is needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smaller &amp;amp; fewer = more attractive &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;vs&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bigger and more = stronger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T21:32:58.927" Title="How do I calculate the amount of downward force a nail will support?" Tags="|nailing|strength|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="123" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="160" CreationDate="2015-03-17T21:11:43.633" Score="6" ViewCount="2840" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never used a froe before but I'm enamored with the idea of making my own boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now, I use splitting wedges to make quarters small enough to feed through my bandsaw. This results in a lot of waste as the wood never splits cleanly. 5&quot; is usually the best board width I can manage once I'm done cutting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked at videos of wood being riven with a froe (not making individual planks, just squaring off the sides) but the wood being split is never identified. It always looks clean and smooth and I think that would fit through a bandsaw much better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use a froe to rive woods like mesquite and ponderosa pine? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="81" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-11-22T02:18:45.567" LastActivityDate="2015-11-23T16:09:31.513" Title="What kind of woods can be riven with a froe?" Tags="|hand-tools|traditional-techniques|making-lumber|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="124" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5284" CreationDate="2015-03-17T21:14:04.883" Score="11" ViewCount="905" Body="&lt;p&gt;I picked up a couple of gouges at a local thrift shop. Some of them are in good order, but some of them are in bad shape and should've been sharpened long ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen a couple of instruction videos on YouTube, but those feature nice clean gouges that just need a little touch up. Is sharpening a badly worn gouge doable by hand? Or should I either just toss them, or keep them around until I get my hands on mechanical means?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="64" LastActivityDate="2017-01-10T15:36:48.793" Title="How to hand-sharpen a badly worn gouge?" Tags="|sharpening|gouge|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="125" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="146" CreationDate="2015-03-17T21:18:34.830" Score="16" ViewCount="64133" Body="&lt;p&gt;It used to be when I went to the lumber store the inexpensive soft wood was Pine.  Now they call it &quot;White Wood&quot;, what exactly is &quot;White Wood&quot;, I don't recall ever hearing of a tree species by that name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-06-19T01:31:13.963" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T12:42:49.350" Title="What is &quot;White Wood&quot;?" Tags="|wood|wood-species|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="98" CreationDate="2015-03-17T21:18:35.143" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;This used to actually be a guild issue, believe it or not. &quot;Mere&quot; carpenters were forbidden to use many of the fancier joinery available to furniture makers, and expected to use nails. Hence the association of nails with cheaper pieces made by less-skilled labor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course the budget piece might be just as functional as the fancier one -- and the fact that nails flex a bit actually lets them dodge some wood-movement issues that &quot;proper&quot; joinery has to wrestle with. But there are still bragging rights in being able to minimize your use of screws and nails, and let the wood and glue do the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, I've seen a number of pieces which deliberately use nails (especially cut nails) to replicate the &quot;ordinary homeowner's&quot; version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My take is that it's all good, as long as it's a deliberate decision with some awareness of the history. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T21:18:35.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="99" CreationDate="2015-03-17T21:22:14.127" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A correctly setup handplane works perfectly for this. Make sure the mouth is tight, that the chip breaker is sitting tight on the blade and close to the cutting edge. Also ensure that depth of the cut is as slight as it can be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that there different types of planes which will reduce tear out (search for smoothing plane or if you have too much money, smoothing infill plane). And there are different setups or design options, like the angle of the bevel or the angle of the bed. You will not need any sand paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do go with scrapers, there are hybrid tools that will hold the scraper for you. The Stanley #80 Scraper Plane comes to mind. And it is possible to do a first pass with a plane and work trouble spots with the scraper afterwords. I'm personally a fan of thicker scrapers myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are curious about hand planes, I recommend Christopher Schwartz's book (well, really a collection of articles) entitled Handplane Essentials. There is whole section entitled 'Getting things flat' :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T21:22:14.127" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="67" CreationDate="2015-03-17T21:28:14.777" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Silica gel packets won't work well if your tools are on shelving. They'll just dry out the surrounding air, which will be replaced by other moist air. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, if your tools are in boxes, silica gel packets will be fairly effective. Naturally, the larger packets are more effective than the smaller ones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've always had good results with them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="114" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T21:28:14.777" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="125" CreationDate="2015-03-17T21:30:23.440" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;White wood is the cheap, crappy wood available at home centers, and will vary by region. Here in Arizona, it's white pine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="81" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-03-19T13:43:25.550" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T13:43:25.550" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="122" CreationDate="2015-03-17T21:32:58.927" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Expanding to an actual answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically finish nails are, as indicated by the name, for finishing touches. I.e. trim, face materials, etc. They are not structural, and are often used in conjunction with other stronger methods. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I understand you question there are a couple of options&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Counter-sink screws periodically to provide additional structural support. These can be capped with parts of dowels that match the wood type to hide them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a strong adhesive, and add finish nails for support until the adhesive dries.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look into a tongue and groove method, combined with adhesive and nails (which can be hidden in the grooves).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big issue you are having to overcome is gravity (I still haven't found a way to negate its effects!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T21:32:58.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="124" CreationDate="2015-03-17T21:33:39.480" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming they are high speed steel (most likely) using a very fine file ... And lots of patience, you can reface the tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Follow the same pitch, and remove material until there isn't any more gauling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, I would invest in a bench top belt sander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-04-11T19:47:40.447" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T19:47:40.447" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="132" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="137" CreationDate="2015-03-17T21:38:22.247" Score="20" ViewCount="26267" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to be putting together a crib for over the next few months for our first child.  I found a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.marcandkatie.org/2010/04/next-step-buy-and-mix-shellac.html&quot;&gt;blog&lt;/a&gt; that mentions shellac.  Only, it doesn't exactly say that shellac is safe, only that it is safer than polyurethane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is whether shellac is, in fact, safe and what are some other options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also curious about whether it is important to finish the crib at all.  What are the downsides to just leaving it as sanded lumber?  Is this just an aesthetic concern?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="140" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T18:29:51.763" LastActivityDate="2017-12-01T08:04:58.603" Title="What are some safe finishes for indoor projects likely to be chewed on by a young child or infant?" Tags="|finishing|finish|toxicity|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="124" CreationDate="2015-03-17T21:40:12.720" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep them! or send them to me :)  Many folks claim older gouges work better than new.&#xA;There are a few extra steps needed to save an old gouge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the rust, gunk and the like. &#xA;Then using your sharpening stones make sure the flat backs are, indeed, flat (if the gouges in question have flat backs). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the cutting edge is chipped, then you will need to grind the edge back evenly until the chip is gone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't forget to inspect the 'inside' curve of the gouge; improper sharpening or abuse may require you to use sharpening slipstones to correct any defects found here.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, you can dress the edge and sharpen the tool as you would a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T21:40:12.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="132" CreationDate="2015-03-17T21:50:52.390" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Per &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/users/20/ratchet-freak&quot;&gt;@ratchet-freak&lt;/a&gt;'s suggestion, I looked up &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-to/article/food-safe-finishes.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;food-safe finishes&quot;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Options include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pure tung oil. Extracted from the nut of the china wood tree. Used as&#xA;a base in many blended finishes. Available from catalogs and hardware&#xA;stores. Difficult to apply, requires many coats, good&#xA;water-resistance. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raw linseed oil. Pressed from flax seeds. Not to be&#xA;confused with boiled linseed, which contains metallic driers. Listed&#xA;as a food additive by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA). Very&#xA;long curing time, good looks, low water-resistance, frequent&#xA;reapplication. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mineral oil. Although derived from petroleum, it is&#xA;colorless, odorless, tasteless and entirely inert. Sold as a laxative&#xA;in drug stores and as a wood finish in hardware and kitchen-supply&#xA;stores. Simple to apply, low waterresistance, frequent reapplication.   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Walnut oil. Pressed from the nuts of the walnut tree. Sold as a salad&#xA;oil in health food stores and in large grocery stores. Walnut oil&#xA;dries and won't go rancid. Easy to apply, frequent reapplication.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Beeswax. The work of the honey bee. Can be mixed with an oil to&#xA;create a better-smelling, slightly more waterrepellent finish. Sold&#xA;in woodworking and turning catalogs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carnauba wax. Derived from the&#xA;Brazilian palm tree. Harder than beeswax and more water-resistant.&#xA;Can be used straight on woodenware as a light protective coating or a&#xA;topcoat polish. Sold in woodworking and turning catalogs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shellac. A&#xA;secretion from the lac bug. Harvested in India. Super blond shellac&#xA;in flake form is the most waterresistant variety. A film-forming&#xA;finish. Sold in woodworking catalogs and hardware and art supply&#xA;stores.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T21:50:52.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="60" CreationDate="2015-03-17T21:55:33.107" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The traditional answer is to use slipstones to sharpen the interior the 'v'. As already mentioned files will work and if you are curious about using sand paper (also as known as the scary sharp method), you can create a little strip of wood that fits the interior shape of the 'v' and glue sand paper to it. Now you can use this sand paper block to sharpen the interior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T21:55:33.107" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="67" CreationDate="2015-03-17T21:55:36.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lee Valley sells a desiccant that you can place in a cabinet with your tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=59367&amp;amp;cat=1,43456&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=59367&amp;amp;cat=1,43456&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I would strongly encourage you to do (which is what I've done) is to buy an in room dehumidifier.  Rusting starts when the ambient humidity reaches 40%.   The  dehumidifier will not only protect your hand tools, but all your other tools as well.  This is the model I bought from Amazon:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00AU7GZXE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AU7GZXE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T21:55:36.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="132" CreationDate="2015-03-17T22:01:04.783" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some unfinished woods can be toxic: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-allergies-and-toxicity/&quot;&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-allergies-and-toxicity&quot;&gt;http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-allergies-and-toxicity&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any commercially available finish will have a publicly available &lt;strong&gt;material safety data sheet&lt;/strong&gt;. Just google &quot;&lt;em&gt;finish&lt;/em&gt; MSDS.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bob Flexner devotes a section of &lt;em&gt;Understanding Wood Finishing&lt;/em&gt; to food grade finishes. According to him, these &quot;salad bowl finishes&quot; are generally just varnish. Check out the book, it's an excellent reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="81" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T22:01:04.783" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="132" CreationDate="2015-03-17T22:02:57.667" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would certainly finish the crib with something.  It will take a lot of abuse, particularly if it's used by more than one child, and some of that abuse will be (as you note) chewing/etc., which will introduce moisture and other damaging things.  It also will be more vulnerable to splintering, which will be painful for your child if it occurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main thing I look for in a crib finish:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low or no VOCs; your child will sleep in it, and you don't want carcinogens in the air where you can avoid them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Non-toxic; many are labeled this way on the can.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Non-chipping types of finishes, so either stains or similar that will primarily go into the wood rather than lying on top.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Naturally derived oils are a good example of this; walnut oil, linseed oil, hemp oil, etc., are good choices.  Waxes like beeswax are good also, but may need to be re-applied periodically. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We used a combination of linseed oil and beeswax on our child's furniture, and it seemed to work well so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T22:02:57.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="132" CreationDate="2015-03-17T22:04:22.123" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say shellac.  It's heavily used in the pharmaceutical industry to coat pills.  It's an excellent all around finish, but it not's incredibly durable.  My next choice would be mineral oil and bee's wax.  You really can't go wrong with either of these choices.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T22:04:22.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="89" CreationDate="2015-03-17T22:52:00.163" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r7yLMN-nMu0&amp;amp;t=4m0s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video online&lt;/a&gt;, that suggested a simple jig that will allow you to drill straight into a relatively flat surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a piece of stock that is square. From the end of the stock, cut a wedge section that is 90&amp;deg; in the wedge (the left inner face should be 90&amp;deg; from the right inner face) and the wedge vertex (the line in the middle of the removed area), should also be 90&amp;deg; from the bottom face of the block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Place the jig flat against the surface you want to drill, snug the drill bit up to the inner corner (the cut out area), and drill away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need to make several of these to accommodate different sized bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To allow for a forstner bit, cut a section from the bottom of the jig (see the side view image) allowing just enough clearance for the bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible to make this jig with the vertex at a different angle. You can make the jig as above to get a perfectly square reference. Then run the bottom plane of the jig through a table saw (or whatever you have that will work) to shave an angled wedge from the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/szlVK.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KCTqc.png&quot; alt=&quot;Simple Drill Straight Jig - top view&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0cuPj.png&quot; alt=&quot;Simple Drill Straight Jig - side view&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The notch has been removed in the side view to allow for a forstner (or similar) bit to have clearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="107" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-05-14T19:26:55.033" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T19:26:55.033" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="141" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="182" CreationDate="2015-03-17T22:53:23.263" Score="8" ViewCount="3898" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard that &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acacia_melanoxylon&quot;&gt;Tasmanian Blackwood&lt;/a&gt; has toxic sawdust.  Just how toxic is this sawdust, and what precautions need to be taken when working with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="117" LastEditorUserId="140" LastEditDate="2015-03-19T02:43:49.070" LastActivityDate="2015-03-22T12:50:24.087" Title="Safety when working Tasmanian Blackwood" Tags="|safety|toxicity|sawdust|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="67" CreationDate="2015-03-17T23:22:26.817" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;WD40 is much better (I find) when not applied with an aerosol; get it by the litre and brush it on with a rag. That's my usual method, and it works fine (except when I forget). I do it every single time I'm going to not use a tool for more than a couple of hours. The smell is far less than when spraying the stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With wax, if you want to avoid having to warm it, you can (sort of) disolve it in some metho and brush it on with a rag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, the &lt;em&gt;traditional&lt;/em&gt; system is a mutton roll! A strip of fabric, with animal fat laid crossways on it, then rolled up. Tie it up with string, cut one end off neatly, and use that end to smear grease all over your tools after use. Lasts ages!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T23:22:26.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="143" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="187" CreationDate="2015-03-17T23:38:56.750" Score="5" ViewCount="3971" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in creating two types of bowls.  The first is relatively straightforward - in design, at least - as it will just be a large salad bowl.  The second is going to mimic a bowl I was gifted recently that is more or less tear drop shaped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: how I would go about removing the inside (and outside for that matter) of the bowl?  Would this process be the same for a bowl that is not circular?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind that you're speaking to a beginner here.  If possible, please provide the investment context, ie what are the low tech (cheap) and hi tech (expensive) tool options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T14:14:49.623" Title="What tools can I use to hollow out a bowl?" Tags="|bowl|hollowing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="72" CreationDate="2015-03-18T01:12:08.160" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will be a lot of work but I have two different suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use your stain remover again, but this time be more specific and use an (old) toothbrush to apply it and 'clean' it back off when it is time.  A toothbrush can can work the remover into the small places and can work just like getting plaque off your teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's mostly gone, you can try the same trick with bleach, but be careful, it is also dangerous as well (health hazards) and if it is too strong can damage the wood.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is always the question of how much do you want off?  because done well, leaving some of the old stain in the grooves can give it a nice 'antique' look and feel as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T01:12:08.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="123" CreationDate="2015-03-18T01:17:57.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A froe splits wood along the grain, so it works best on wood with long straight grain. Anything with a complex figure is likely to fight being split this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't worked with the woods you mention, so I can't offer any more specific advice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2015-11-22T03:23:48.513" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T03:23:48.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="125" CreationDate="2015-03-18T01:20:23.157" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect it is any cheap tree that is fairly white.  'White wood' is not a species.  It is likely pine, but in theory could be balsam or aspen or a bunch of others.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a little looking and it mostly confirmed that.  It can be any of a number of species that all are fairly 'white' with little strong grain showing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T01:20:23.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="147" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="186" CreationDate="2015-03-18T01:56:00.880" Score="18" ViewCount="66149" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to woodworking and I'm in the planning phase of making a bench like the one pictured below. I'm planning on storing very heavy boxes on this and would also like to use it as a stool to reach high shelves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a standard practice in determining how much weight a bench can hold? Is there any quick estimation practices that usually give accurate results? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bench will be made all out of Douglas-fir 2x4 studs, except for the four legs which will be Douglas-fir 4x4 posts. The only fasteners I plan on using are steel 2.5 in. common nails. How can I find the weight this bench can realistically hold? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1zkFcm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="126" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2019-10-24T21:00:44.933" LastActivityDate="2019-10-24T21:00:44.933" Title="How can I determine the load capacity of a simple bench?" Tags="|safety|weight-capacity|racking|douglas-fir|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="148" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="158" CreationDate="2015-03-18T02:21:48.940" Score="10" ViewCount="4695" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been keen on taking pallets and other woods from supply stores so that I can up-cycle them into small woodworking projects like birdhouses, feeders and lately wine racks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There were some fence sections that looks weathered enough that I though they would look good as birdhouses. When I cut into them I noticed the green stain that makes me think it was pressure treated wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I possibly use that for something like a birdhouse or bird feeder? I would not use it for anything like a food tray or something that would come into contact with food or edible plants. By extension, should I not use it for any applications. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was an accident for me to pick that up in the first place since I don't even think I should burn it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use pressure treated wood for small projects that will be used by animals?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2015-03-19T19:31:08.150" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T19:31:08.150" Title="Is it safe (for the animals) to use pressure treated wood for animal feeders and houses?" Tags="|pressure-treated|animals|toxicity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="149" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-18T02:31:01.547" Score="3" ViewCount="183" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking into build bat houses and water proofing the enclosure is a large part of most tutorials. Almost all suggest that you need to caulk all the seams. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None however are very specific on the type of caulk. To be clear I am not looking for brand recommendations as those would be clearly off topic. I am however looking for suggestions of the best &lt;em&gt;type&lt;/em&gt; of caulk. Obviously I would not want to be using bathroom caulk outdoors. Last I checked there were oodles of choices.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in southern Canada so temperature would be a factor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T05:16:24.203" Title="Caulking small outdoor enclosures ( bat house/ birdhouse etc.)" Tags="|plywood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="150" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="155" CreationDate="2015-03-18T02:40:46.010" Score="7" ViewCount="1237" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am cleaning up pallet wood to be used for miscellaneous projects. Right now I prepare the wood with minor variations on this process. The wood I get varies depending on what pallets I end up with. More often they are softer woods. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wash if required.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a rasp to remove porous/weaker wood from the plank.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a low grit sandpaper with a belt sander&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a medium grit by hand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a high grit by hand. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that no matter how much I sand and clean the wood that it contains a lot of &lt;em&gt;burrs&lt;/em&gt; (If I can call them that). Eventually I will stain and varnish these projects and that will be all for naught if little bits of wood are always stuck everywhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sanding enough or not using a proper technique. Since I am using pallet wood it is already not the best cuts of wood to begin with so is my issue my wood choice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-03-05T17:33:08.193" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T22:49:57.970" Title="Can some woods just never have a clean finish after sanding?" Tags="|sanding|pallet|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="151" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-18T03:00:09.617" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pallets are usually easy to come by as most stores will have them. Since they have no resale value it is common to find them near trash bins or stacked for removal. In some cases companies could pay you to pick them up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This cheap source of wood can be the start of any basic wood working project such as birdhouses or small furniture. They can even be utilized in there current form for something simple like a table. Easy sources of inspiration would be &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pinterest.com/search/pins/?q=pallets&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pinterest&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.1001pallets.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;1001 Pallets&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since pallets can be build with a variety of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pinterest.com/search/pins/?q=pallets&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;different woods, assembly styles and dimensions&lt;/a&gt; it is important to treat each differently when it comes to dis-assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; important is paying attention to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://diyready.com/how-to-know-if-a-pallet-is-safe/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pallet stamp&lt;/a&gt;, if present. This can be one of the most important safety considerations when choosing pallet wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider these points when using this tag as some of the important points in answering a question about wood type, dis-assembly and safety are dependent on the topics discussed here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two important primers for pallets:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/430/what-is-the-best-way-to-remove-nails-from-pallets&quot;&gt;What is the best way to remove nails from pallets?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/342/what-do-i-need-to-know-when-looking-at-pallets-for-wood&quot;&gt;What do I need to know when looking at pallets for wood?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-03-28T18:41:13.400" LastActivityDate="2015-03-28T18:41:13.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="152" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-18T03:00:09.617" Score="0" Body="Normally used in shipping, pallets are a free, if not cheap, source of materials for a variety of projects" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-03-27T01:22:15.797" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T01:22:15.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="153" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="184" CreationDate="2015-03-18T03:23:19.917" Score="8" ViewCount="6869" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I am building a wine rack, for instance, using pallet wood. I don't want nice shiny screws to draw attention away from the piece. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I currently do is sand off the top and leave it in water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you think of a fast way to rust the screw or perhaps another idea that could brown it (without painting)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could see this being off topic but its worth a shot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T02:03:56.823" Title="Rusting nails on purpose" Tags="|screws|pallet|rust|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="153" CreationDate="2015-03-18T04:45:58.367" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could soak it in vinegar. I know that steel wool dissolves in vinegar and completely rusted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T04:45:58.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="150" CreationDate="2015-03-18T04:47:33.790" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have worked with old fences and have achieved a &quot;new&quot; wood look by planing. The problem is that, after planing, you only have a small amount of wood to work with. You might run into the same problem. But...just pass it through a planer and it will look quite new. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Be careful&lt;/strong&gt; running pallet wood, or any reclaimed wood for that matter, through a planer. If you miss removing just one of the nails, you may end up needing a new set of knives! I've got an inexpensive metal detector/stud finder that I use for this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-03-19T15:42:54.050" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T15:42:54.050" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="147" CreationDate="2015-03-18T05:07:33.693" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to find the load bearing capacity of the horizontal bench top, I'd treat it like a shelf and run the numbers through some sort of load-bearing calculator like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator.htm&quot;&gt;sagulator&lt;/a&gt;. The load-bearing capacity will also depend on whether the weight is mostly toward the center or if it is evenly distributed. Ideally you would laminate (thoroughly glue) several 2x4s together to make a strong solid panel for the top of the bench. In that case you can treat it as one solid board in your load calculator. If you don't laminate the top pieces together, I'd run calculations for a single 2x4 of the appropriate length, as well as multiplying that answer by 2 to 4, depending on how many of the 2x4s any item on the bench is likely to span.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you calculate the load-bearing capacity, the other factor to consider is racking--in this case, most likely side-to-side movement or wobbling.  You mention that your only mechanical fasteners will be nails, but you don't mention whether you intend to use glue or joinery. The cleats that attach the top to the legs will help somewhat against racking, but gluing them in addition to nailing them can increase the racking resistance dramatically. Glued mortise and tenon joints at various locations on the bench would make it even stronger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T05:07:33.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="149" CreationDate="2015-03-18T05:16:24.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest using something like a pine resin rather than caulk.  Keep it as natural as possible.  Also, please don't forget to reinforce the entrance to hinder squirrels from chewing through.  They will eat baby birds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T05:16:24.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="148" CreationDate="2015-03-18T05:23:21.390" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, I wouldn't feel right using pressure treated wood for a birdhouse or bird feeder. Several gardening websites even &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finegardening.com/are-pressure-treated-woods-safe-garden-beds&quot;&gt;recommend against using pressure-treated boards for garden boxes&lt;/a&gt; because the chemicals can leech into the soil and could be absorbed by any edible plants you're growing. I imagine these chemicals could also leech into birdfood (as in a bird feeder) or perhaps through a bird's body parts through prolonged exposure (as in a birdhouse). The risk may be minimal, but better safe than sorry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could still find uses for the pressure treated lumber in decorative yard ornaments (which you'll probably paint or stain anyway), or as part of some structure like a shed, fence, arbor, or maybe even a bench or swing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T05:23:21.390" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="159" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="178" CreationDate="2015-03-18T06:09:45.160" Score="12" ViewCount="19942" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kiln dried wood is usually recommended for woodworking projects since it's more stable than green and air dried lumber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, I've been told kiln dried wood is bad for lathe work, and in fact green wood is best for turning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air dried lumber seems to be considered workable but perhaps not ideal for anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this pretty much sum it up, or are there other applications such as carving in which a certain moisture level is ideal? Is there any case in which air-dried lumber is preferable over both kiln-dried and green wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T21:11:14.423" Title="When is it best to use kiln-dried vs. air-dried vs. green wood in a project?" Tags="|green-wood|lumber|kiln-dried-wood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="123" CreationDate="2015-03-18T06:23:51.500" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I may be off a little on this, but from my experience of looking up antique tools, a froe was primarily use to spit roof shakes (shingles). Back in the day when to homes were made with the local trees, whether cut by pit saw, adz or other means, shakes where cut with a froe after the logs where cut to a specific length, somewhere in the 20&quot;-24&quot; range. The wood was a straight grained wood as mentioned before, depending on what was available in the area. Some areas had cedar, others had douglas fir and oak. There may be other species out there, but I man not familiar with them. If I remember right, there is still a company that sells hand split shakes, well there was a few years ago. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding longer logs, I don't think it was made to split anything much longer than a shake. I guess it is worth a try...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T06:23:51.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="73" CreationDate="2015-03-18T06:35:25.940" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, I would check the squareness of the blade, making sure it is razor sharp.&#xA;Secondly, there is typically a little wiggle room where the blade resides in the plane. You may be able to pivot the blade to the left or right to counter effect the angled cut you are making.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps that is what you mean side to side? If that does not give enough play to turn the blade to correct the problem, maybe the only thing left is to sharpen the blade a little out of square to correct the cut... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turning the blade has always done it for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T06:35:25.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="150" CreationDate="2015-03-18T06:41:58.117" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can, check the moisture content of your material. I usually find that problem when the wood has a very high moisture content, say 15-20% and higher. A simple test is also feeling how cold the wood feels. Wet wood feels colder than dry wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T06:41:58.117" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="163" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="213" CreationDate="2015-03-18T07:53:25.843" Score="7" ViewCount="1759" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm replacing my garden edging (the separator between lawn and flower beds), and I have some treated pine I would like to use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hq1cV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Treated Pine Edging&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the best way to stop the pine from rotting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="133" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T05:13:46.973" Title="Treating pine for partial burial" Tags="|water-protection|pine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="164" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="190" CreationDate="2015-03-18T09:06:11.333" Score="8" ViewCount="11760" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this castle built in my garden out of plywood. The problem is that it keeps leaking. I've tried silicone which doesn't last, and also a window sealant, but since the plywood expands and contracts it also lets the water through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The join in question is a horizontal plank joining a vertical one in the middle. So it's a floor joining to a wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-06-27T16:56:30.930" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T16:56:30.930" Title="How do I seal plywood joints effectively for outdoor use?" Tags="|plywood|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="72" CreationDate="2015-03-18T10:00:58.160" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are special spools of abrasive material that is almost like a sandpaper shoe lace.  That might be worth looking into for sanding the stain out of intricate designs in some cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6NLYG.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6NLYG.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Mitchell&amp;#39;s sanding cord&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://mitchellsabrasives.com/osc/images/package_cord-full.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mitchellsabrasives.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2019-03-10T15:33:10.513" LastActivityDate="2019-03-10T15:33:10.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="83" CreationDate="2015-03-18T10:05:58.080" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes when people believe their saw is dull, what it really needs is a cleaning.  The resins from the wood build up in the teeth over time and gum up the cutting edge.  Soaking the blade in simple green or another cleaner of choice and then scrubbing the teeth with an old toothbrush can prolong cutting life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T10:05:58.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="164" CreationDate="2015-03-18T10:33:54.587" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will want to install &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Siding&quot;&gt;siding&lt;/a&gt;, essentially add a layer of material that repels the water away from the plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can start by wrapping it in plastic &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Housewrap&quot;&gt;housewrap&lt;/a&gt; and then nail &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood_shingle&quot;&gt;wooden shingles&lt;/a&gt; to the wall. Start from the bottom and overlap them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T10:33:54.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="132" CreationDate="2015-03-18T10:48:43.517" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soy_paint&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;soy based paints&lt;/a&gt; available on the market. I have had good results with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ecoprocote.com/DuraSoy-One-Bio-Based-Paint-s/114.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Durasoy brand&lt;/a&gt;.  While Soy based paints start with a non-toxic foundation, additives can change that, so you will want to check what is in the specific brand/type you choose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leaving the wood untreated is also an option.  Research on plastic vs wood cutting boards found little risk of contamination from untreated wood exposed to Escherichia coli O157:H7 and Salmonella.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://faculty.vetmed.ucdavis.edu/faculty/docliver/Research/cuttingboard.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;disease bacteria such as these were not recoverable from wooden&#xA;  surfaces in a short time after they were applied ... although the&#xA;  bacteria that have disappeared from the wood surfaces are found alive&#xA;  inside the wood for some time after application, they evidently do not&#xA;  multiply, and they gradually die.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Untreated wood will be more susceptible to stains and as saltface mentions in their answer and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-allergies-and-toxicity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;supporting reference&lt;/a&gt; some raw wood can have adverse impacts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T18:30:02.447" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T18:30:02.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="67" CreationDate="2015-03-18T10:50:21.437" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Camelia oil.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is very affordable (around 15€ per liter), it doesn't stain, nor gum (nor smell, nor taste). It's not aggressive to the skin or otherwise hazardous to your health (in fact you &lt;em&gt;could drink it&lt;/em&gt;, and you could use it as lotion and for your hair, indeed many high-quality body oils contain camelia).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apply a few drops with a dispenser and spread it evenly so the entire surface is covered, then wrap your tool in an old rag before boxing it (or, preferrably a leather sheet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can remove the oil prior to using the tool with one swipe of a paper towel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="135" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T10:50:21.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="170" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="257" CreationDate="2015-03-18T11:02:16.100" Score="6" ViewCount="338" Body="&lt;p&gt;I needed/wanted a small pneumatic nailer for assembling small wood construction. I purchased an inexpensive nailer and nails at the local discount store, and found the nails often jammed.  Within a few attempts the nailer became unusable from damage caused by nails jamming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went to DIY box store and bought a quality (&lt;em&gt;I did some research first&lt;/em&gt;) nailer and quality nails. This works fine, and I am very happy with the results. But I wonder if I I really need to buy the expensive nailer and the expensive nails.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was it the nailer or the nails that caused the issue?  Could I reliably use inexpensive nails in an expensive nailer, or can I reliably use expensive nails in an inexpensive nailer?  Do both the nailer and the nails need to be quality? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-03-05T17:25:17.093" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T17:25:17.093" Title="With a pneumatic nailer what is more important the quality of the nailer or the nails?" Tags="|nailing|nails|pneumatic-nailer|air-tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="159" CreationDate="2015-03-18T12:05:09.660" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is exactly right. Kiln dried wood is typically prized for it's stability and use in construction. This may be preferable in pieces work that would get laminated or otherwise glued together, however if it is too dry, sometimes even the moisture from the glue can cause swelling and require extra drying time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I typically prefer to turn in air dried wood. It tends to have the least amount of warping, especially if the cut ends were waxed or otherwise sealed. I typically worked with wood that had been dried slowly, with the bark still on. This was ideal for turning. With moisture just around 12% - 14% I was most comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most large burls I know of are air dried, and then resawn into more manageable pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there are techniques to turn green wood EXPECTING it to warp and twist, and doing it in such a way as to not crack. Those were the most beautiful, organic pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are pros and cons to all kinds of wood, but I find with patience and a steady hand are often the limiting factors compared to the moisture content. Each piece of wood should be selected for the application/project in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wish you good luck, and large piles of woodchips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-02-02T21:11:14.423" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T21:11:14.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="98" CreationDate="2015-03-18T12:09:13.753" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in other answers, nails may be more appropriate when the wood will be prone to a lot of warping or swelling.  Nailed joints offer flexibility to accommodate the changing dimensions of the joint, whereas glue joints may outright fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moisture is a major cause of warping and swelling.  Projects that are subject to sustained contact with water, such as boat building or a planters with direct contact to the soil are well-suited for nail use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T12:09:13.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="153" CreationDate="2015-03-18T12:10:45.340" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for a patina/darkness as opposed to an orange-rust color, baking soda will do nicely. If you want to 'lock in' this color, a quick trip to a 450F oven will do the trick nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T12:10:45.340" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="117" CreationDate="2015-03-18T12:21:15.767" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It doesn't sound like this is the case for you but staples are an issue if you have a SawStop table saw. With this table saw, if the blade comes in contact with any metal, the stopping mechanism will fire and the blade and brake housing will need to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-03-05T17:51:03.393" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T17:51:03.393" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="72" CreationDate="2015-03-18T12:29:15.210" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reapplication and mechanical manipulation are your friends (as suggested above).  If this is critical project, then there are a number of more extreme paths. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a second round with a different product may help.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;your stain remover may come in a thicker solution or a gel. This will slow the evaporation time and thus lengthen the time the goo is removing stain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you can soak cotton balls, cotton rags, etc. with the stain remover and cover the tricky area (The danger here is discoloration or problems with the wood becoming too wet: swelling, ungluing, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you can use dental picks, scrapers, or custom-made tools (grounding hacksaw blades work well) - after you have applied the remover and let it sit for a bit, use the scrapers. You should be able to remove the softened top layer of the finish. Once you reach a harder, dryer area of finish, reapply the finish and repeat the process. (The danger here is cutting and scraping into the wood itself.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the above entails more time breathing nasty and life-shortening chemicals. Please use common sense and ventilation (and a respirator if you have one; you don't? there are many available in the $20-$50 range).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T12:29:15.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="177" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="179" CreationDate="2015-03-18T12:35:25.173" Score="11" ViewCount="2525" Body="&lt;p&gt;When speaking in my woodshop, I can't quite tell whether people are saying &lt;em&gt;joint&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;join&lt;/em&gt; when referring to the place where two pieces of wood are glued (or nailed) together. I know the practice is known as &lt;em&gt;joinery&lt;/em&gt; but in my use of the English language, &lt;em&gt;joint&lt;/em&gt; seems more appropriate. Of course, it doesn't help that a &lt;em&gt;jointer&lt;/em&gt; is a tool for a completely different thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T15:28:14.110" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T19:50:26.083" Title="&quot;Joint&quot; or &quot;Join&quot;: What is the name for the place where two pieces of wood are fastened together?" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="159" CreationDate="2015-03-18T12:48:03.073" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Green&lt;/strong&gt; — Very fun to turn and it's like shaping butter, however, the greener it is the more likely you will get cracks as it dries and quite possibly a bit of warping.  for building projects (book shelves, tables buildings etc) Green is a terrible choice unless you are going for a specific affect as the wood dries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Kiln (fast kiln)&lt;/strong&gt; — Very dry and stable, good for building projects, harder on lathe chisels, and requires more sharpening.  Kiln drying is also hard on the substructure of the wood damaging it and does not last as long as air dried (slow kiln) wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Air dry/slow kiln&lt;/strong&gt; — Takes much longer to be at a usable moisture content for building projects, but for turning is much more stable than green and not as hard on the chisels.  For furniture it is best because it doesn't have the damage caused by fast kiln drying and it will be much more stable than green wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I say fast kiln drying I'm referring to commercial systems that dry the lumber very fast (in a matter of hours).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slow kiln drying refers to something like my solar kiln. It heats up during the day, releasing moisture.  At night the moisture in the center of the wood has an opportunity to dissipate evenly throughout the wood. This results in a more even drying and puts less stress on the wood substructures.  Most of my wood is air dried and then I finish it in my solar kiln to get it down to 10% (or less) moisture content.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T15:24:30.537" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T15:24:30.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="177" CreationDate="2015-03-18T12:53:04.990" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;Joiner&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt; uses a &lt;em&gt;jointer&lt;/em&gt; to &lt;em&gt;joint&lt;/em&gt; ** smooth surfaces on pieces of wood, which he then &lt;em&gt;joins&lt;/em&gt; together to make a &lt;em&gt;joint&lt;/em&gt;. The practice of doing so is called &lt;em&gt;joinery&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gotta love English!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;hat tips to *ewm and **datUser for the additional confusion!&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T19:50:26.083" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T19:50:26.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="163" CreationDate="2015-03-18T13:06:17.420" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buy pressure treated lumber. It's going to cost more than plain pine, but it will last significantly longer in direct contact with the ground, as that's what it's intended for. There's a reason that every telephone/power pole you see is that dark green color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T13:06:17.420" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="177" CreationDate="2015-03-18T13:07:17.797" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good question - given that wood working and the language we use to describe it are hundreds of years old, I will assume both words have been used interchangeably here and there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, I have heard it as a joint (being the noun describing two or more pieces of wood stuck together). I felt that I should consult a higher authority, so I went to Joseph Moxon's &lt;a href=&quot;http://books.google.com/books?id=t_IRCzjTf08C&amp;amp;dq&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Mechanick Exercises or Doctrine of handy-works &amp;#40;1703&amp;#41;&quot;&gt;Mechanick Exercises or Doctrine of handy-works (1703)&lt;/a&gt;, one of the earliest books on woodworking in English. Thanks to google, I could search the text. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moxon is consistent: &lt;em&gt;join&lt;/em&gt; is a verb (&quot;these two Pieces are with Glew commonly join'ed together&quot;, p.64) and &lt;em&gt;joint&lt;/em&gt; is a noun (&quot;...smear the Glew well upon the Joint of each piece you are to Glew together&quot;, p.105). I hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastEditorUserId="14" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T18:29:57.523" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T18:29:57.523" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="141" CreationDate="2015-03-18T13:17:34.300" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sawdust in general is very bad for your health.  The smaller bits that float around (especially from sanding) become little particles that act just like asbestos, they can get into the alveoli and damage them.  So right there is a good reason to have a dust mask and/or a good dust collection system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many woods that have toxicity on top of the physical danger of sawdust.  Generally the darker or more aromatic the wood the more chemicals that can react with your body.  Walnut is full of natural herbicides and pesticides and they don't do the body good.  Some are just allergic reactions so some people will be affected and others won't.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Walnut and your Blackwood both have a 2 star rating according to the wood database &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-allergies-and-toxicity&quot;&gt;link saltface put in the comments&lt;/a&gt;.  Having used walnut I would be very hesitant to use a 3 or 4 star wood without very good precautions!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T13:17:34.300" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="125" CreationDate="2015-03-18T13:18:59.130" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Canada anyways, you would also see it referred to as SPF - Spruce, Pine, Fir which is used as dimensional framing lumber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T13:18:59.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="153" CreationDate="2015-03-18T13:38:32.570" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Metal patinas are a whole art unto themselves. I have used ammonia for brass, made stains with vinegar and so on. Sculptors spend a lot of time on this topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming your nails contain iron, then you are trying to form ferrous oxide, the black 'rust' (as opposed to the orange rust, ferric oxide). Almost any acid will do the trick. Acetic acid (vinegar) and bleach is very effective - mind the fumes; they are dangerous. &#xA;You can also buy a premixed pickle. There are many, I would recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jaxchemicals.com/&quot;&gt;http://www.jaxchemicals.com/&lt;/a&gt; if you wish to go that way. They sell a Iron, Steel, and Nickel Blackener in a pint size (among others).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also keep in mind that heating the nails via a torch or similar flame will also change the color, which is a quick and cheap path. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a grinder, grinding the nail head can overheat the metal and discolor it. Obviously, this leaves marks. You can use a hammer (a chasing hammer if you are feeling fancy) to change the texture of the nail without loosing the patina. Buy this method, you can create nails that look like they were hand wrought very quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastEditorUserId="111" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T13:58:32.610" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T13:58:32.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="185" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-18T13:56:51.763" Score="9" ViewCount="2987" Body="&lt;p&gt;When installing casing trim around windows and door frames the corners are normally cut in a miter. Finish nails are normally used to fasten the adjoining casing pieces to the window/door frame and into the wall structure. My question is if additional nails should be used to nail the mitered corners of two trim pieces together and if so what is the proper method to apply the nails?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Along with this is the additional question as to whether the miter joint should also be glued with yellow woodworkers glue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T20:08:27.823" Title="Correct Method to Nail Casing Corners" Tags="|trim|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="147" CreationDate="2015-03-18T14:09:33.053" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 4x4 posts used for the legs support virtually &quot;infinite&quot; weight longitudinally. Now, of course, given a naive design, each leg would only transmit force onto one 4x2 beam (which are then maybe nailed together with some kind of ledge or so), which isn't optimal. You most definitely want to connect the beams with a dovetail batten or a similar construct close to the legs, if stability matters. Four 10mm carriage bolts that go through each leg and the dovetail batten are a good solution.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Glueing and nailing a thick batten onto the beams might also &quot;work&quot;, but alltogether that's not such a great plan since it rigidly fixes the cross-piece which will put strain on the longitudinal bonding when the batten expands (and that's kind of inevitable).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like this (that's my garden table, it confirmedly supports 8 adult persons dancing on top of it without shaking):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LdxkV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;dovetail batten on table&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you need to make sure that the bench is somewhat resilient against sheering. The cross-beam that is shown in the picture is already a good approach, but nails as the only fastener &lt;em&gt;will not do&lt;/em&gt;. No way.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I would join every two distinct pieces with glue and two 10mm hardwood dovels &lt;em&gt;as the very minimum&lt;/em&gt;. Preferrably though, mortise and tenon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for bearing capacity on the bearing/sitting surface, a single 4x2 douglasia beam that is 180cm long and supported at both ends easily sustains my body weight, so the easy answer on that account would be &lt;em&gt;&quot;no worries, this will do&quot;&lt;/em&gt;. However, you can do orders of magnitude better or worse here too, with only &quot;small&quot; modifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As pointed out by rob, you will ideally want to make a laminate bearing surface by glueing the 4x2 beams together. A small ledge in the middle as shown in the picture will work as the absolute minimum, but will not be nearly as good.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The reasoning behind this is that the weight is better distributed over all beams, not just on the ones the weight is on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, note that using the 4x2 beams in the way depicted in the image is not optimal for bearing capacity, and the horizontal laminate is sub-optimal from the point of view of stability.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The bearing capacity of a rectangular beam is proportional to &lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;/&lt;sub&gt;12&lt;/sub&gt; · h&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;b which means that &lt;em&gt;a single&lt;/em&gt; 4x2 beam (upright) equals &lt;em&gt;four&lt;/em&gt; 2x4 beams (flat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Whw6c.png&quot; alt=&quot;4x2 = 4 * 2x4&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iBjj6.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can therefore greatly increase (double or triple) overall stability and bearing capacity by simply laminating another one or two &lt;em&gt;upright&lt;/em&gt; beams under the bearing surface. Or, you can laminate a thin ledge to one or several of the beams &lt;em&gt;longitudinally&lt;/em&gt;, preferrably set back a bit so one can't see it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For this, it is absolutely important that the beams are glued together carefully on the entire length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="135" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T14:09:33.053" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="143" CreationDate="2015-03-18T14:20:29.073" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To turn an a bowl that is not round I am aware of 2 (3 counting BrownRedHawks comment!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is to use an &lt;a href=&quot;http://nilesbottlestoppers.com/Pendant-chucks.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;off-center jig&lt;/a&gt;, you will turn one half of the bowl, then change the jig and turn the other half, making an oval.  The one I've linked to is for the Ruth Niles jig, it's fairly small, I've also seen some videos on making your own jig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other is an '&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vicmarc.com/default.asp?contentID=549&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;oval turning device&lt;/a&gt;' Not exactly sure how it works but I think it does all the work of moving it around.  Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w5I2Yph57FI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; of it in action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And of course as BrownRedHawk pointed out, turning a bool green(ish) it will warp and be very asymmetrical.  The biggest trick here to keep it from cracking is to make sure that the wood is a very even thickness all around (and still fairly thin), that way it dries at about the same rate and less likely to crack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T14:20:29.073" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="147" CreationDate="2015-03-18T14:25:06.350" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;When determining the load bearing capacity of any structure, you'll need to take into account several different factors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Acceptable deflection&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maximum allowable bending stress&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Column compressive and buckling strengths&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For &lt;strong&gt;calculating deflection&lt;/strong&gt;, @rob's suggestion of using the Sagulator is a good start. You don't need to have an in-depth grasp of all the engineering concepts going on behind the scenes to get a 90% answer. The Sagulator is simply inputting your furniture's dimensions into a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deflection_(engineering)&quot;&gt;beam deflection&lt;/a&gt; equation and spitting out the answer. These equations rely on the assumption the material remains within its &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yield_(engineering)&quot;&gt;elastic limit&lt;/a&gt;. You can test this in the Sagulator by inputting a 5,000 lb loading for a 1/2&quot; thick pine shelf. The deflection shown will be greater than the length of the shelf, since the equation doesn't factor in the ultimate strength of the material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Maximum &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bending&quot;&gt;bending stress&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; allows you to calculate how much loading your furniture can take without breaking. The maximum load a horizontal beam can sustain depends on the span, how the load is applied, how the ends are supported, the material, and the cross-sectional geometry. Luckily, there are several online resources like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.engineersedge.com/beam_calc_menu.shtml&quot;&gt;Engineer's Edge&lt;/a&gt; and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/&quot;&gt;Engineering Toolbox&lt;/a&gt; that can help with generalizations, so you don't have to derive each condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a uniform loading on a beam with fixed-fixed end conditions (that means the joints are connected at each end by glue, or at least by more than one fastener), the maximum bending stress will be located at the ends, at a magnitude of &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;sigma = M*y/I&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M is the maximum moment,&#xA;I is the cross section moment of area&#xA;y is the distance from the neutral axis. &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a rectangular cross section, , and I = 1/12*b*h^3, where h is the beam thickness, and b is the beam width. The y is simply h/2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can calculate your maximum M with this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.webcivil.com/ffbeam.aspx&quot;&gt;calculator&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The maximum allowable stress (or Modulus of Rupture) for many wood species can be found by searching Google for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=1&amp;amp;cad=rja&amp;amp;uact=8&amp;amp;sqi=2&amp;amp;ved=0CB4QFjAA&amp;amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.conradfp.com%2Fpdf%2Fch4-Mechanical-Properties-of-Wood.pdf&amp;amp;ei=nJkJVdnSM4r7yASd7oLgBA&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNEM4RTr1IpGURsz1zMEwKs2Q-obEw&amp;amp;sig2=B3PEmErMQkPdSYovcSliBQ&amp;amp;bvm=bv.88198703,d.aWw&quot;&gt;wood material properties&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't forget your safety factor on this part!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Column compressive and buckling strengths&lt;/strong&gt; won't really play into your design considerations unless you're planning on using long, spindly legs. With 4x4 legs, you won't have this problem. With thinner legs, you can calculate the critical centric loading (aligned with the axis of the leg, applied in the center of the leg) with the following formula:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;F=(pi^2*EI)/(KL)^2&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; E is the material modulus of elasticity&#xA; I is the area moment of inertia of the leg cross section,&#xA; K is the column effective length factor,&#xA; L is the unsupported length&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For unsupported legs attached only at a table apron or the top of your bench, K will be 2, since it's essentially a fixed-free end condition. For a legs connected with a brace at the bottom, K will be closer to 0.5, and column compressive strength is more of a factor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastEditorUserId="38" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T15:29:45.843" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T15:29:45.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="189" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="251" CreationDate="2015-03-18T14:39:38.290" Score="12" ViewCount="1271" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently installed butcher block countertops in my kitchen. Several weeks ago, I put four coats of varnish on them, but (as always) they ended up with dust nibs. So yesterday, I wet sanded with 400 grit sandpaper (using mineral oil and water as a lubricant). That made the surface very smooth to the touch, but left an uneven sheen across the surface because the dust nibbed areas (i.e., the high points) were matte while the crevices were satin (the luster I chose for the finish). Normally, one would keep sanding until the sheen is even, but I figured I'd just add a top layer of finish thinned with mineral spirits (i.e., a wiping varnish). Theoretically, applying another layer of satin finish &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; make the sheen even.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alas, it did not. Look at the picture below. Why has my top coat not evened out the finish? How can I even out the sheen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple things I have considered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bump up the sheen to semi-gloss. The top coat was a different brand of varnish, so maybe the undercoat (the un-dust-nibbed part) was more shiny than the top (thinned) coat, which could cause this diversity of sheen. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bump &lt;em&gt;down&lt;/em&gt; the sheen to matte. Maybe dampening everything to the dust-nibbed sheen is the best way to go (for the opposite reasons stated in #1). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Keep adding coats. This is, after all, thinned varnish I'm applying. Maybe it will take several more coats to even the sheen. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Live with it :(&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So...any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I1oNt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-03-31T13:50:20.230" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T21:02:39.667" Title="Evening reflectivity of a finish after &quot;finishing the finish&quot;" Tags="|finishing|finish|varnish|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="164" CreationDate="2015-03-18T14:53:56.187" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to build a lot of wood boating projects, i.e. deck boxes for life-jackets, hatch covers etc. Anytime two boards were joined, I used a spline the full length and filled the gap (if one existed as in a curved hatch cover) with 3M 5200 sealant. Epoxy is used extensively in boating projects which are almost always outdoor project subjected to intense sunlight. Using fiberglass over edge joints will also keep out the water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="138" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T14:53:56.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="191" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="226" CreationDate="2015-03-18T15:09:54.223" Score="11" ViewCount="2999" Body="&lt;p&gt;Commercially available dowel pegs come with a spiral groove around their outside surface. How important is this grooving? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This comes to bear in the case when using smooth dowel stock to make ones own dowel pegs. Should one always buy the commercial grooved pegs or are DIY smooth pegs just as good?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T00:06:01.240" Title="Using smooth dowel pegs" Tags="|glue|dowel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="125" CreationDate="2015-03-18T15:22:34.123" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's a deliberate misuse of the poor tulip tree's name. &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liriodendron_tulipifera&quot;&gt;White wood&lt;/a&gt; is Liriodendron tulipifera, a rather valuable hardwood (which funnily is not white at all).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Insofar, calling the inexepensive soft wood &quot;white wood&quot; is somewhat misleading.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Nevertheless, in practice, home improvement centers will sell anything from spruce, fir, or pine to &quot;coniferous wood&quot; under the umbrella term &quot;white wood&quot;. In other words, you get whatever happens to be around and is cheapest, but it &lt;em&gt;sounds like&lt;/em&gt; you buy something valuable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="135" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T15:22:34.123" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="191" CreationDate="2015-03-18T15:37:20.387" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main reason for for the grooves in the pegs is to increase the surface area for the glue to adhere to.  You get a lot more surface area, which gives more bonding strength.  My dowels have straight lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cutting long dowels down to peg size is fine as well.  It partially depends on how much strength you need and you can often add in an extra dowel to get the same effect.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T15:37:20.387" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="194" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-18T15:57:29.700" Score="4" ViewCount="2269" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to build wooden toys/houses/things for caged pets, such as Degus, Hamsters, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware that there are chemicals and glues used to make some wood products, such as MDF which make the dust created by cutting it somewhat toxic to human health.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How could I select an appropriate wood or wood material for my animal cage, considering that the animals may chew on them?  Are MDF and other plywoods safe, or do they contain toxins that may be dangerous for pets if they are ingested in small quantities?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="139" LastEditorUserId="140" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T18:08:28.770" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T18:08:28.770" Title="What woods or wood materials are unsafe for use in animal cages?" Tags="|safety|animals|toxicity|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="9" ClosedDate="2015-03-18T19:55:50.870" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="195" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-18T16:45:33.560" Score="8" ViewCount="2007" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wood-working tools can be very loud.  Noise levels of 104 - 110 dB &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip43.html&quot;&gt;have been measured in real-world use&lt;/a&gt;.  (Theoretically, the noise levels are supposed to be measured one meter away from the source of the noise.  One meter is 3' 3 3/8&quot;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few forms of hearing protection available.  For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Squishy ear-plugs for putting in one's ear canals.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/disposable-ear-plugs&quot;&gt;Typical earplugs&lt;/a&gt; are rated for about 32 dB of noise reduction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Headset-like earmuffs.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/vibe-29-earmuff-hearing-protectors&quot;&gt;Typical earmuffs&lt;/a&gt; are rated for about 29 dB of noise protection.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it considered best practice to wear both ear-plugs and earmuffs when working with power tools?  Or does the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.noisehelp.com/double-hearing-protection.html&quot;&gt;combined noise reduction&lt;/a&gt; make it so hard to hear non-tool noise that you will not hear other potential dangers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="140" LastEditorUserId="140" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T17:19:35.693" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T02:12:07.290" Title="Optimum amount of hearing protection?" Tags="|safety|noise|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="196" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="207" CreationDate="2015-03-18T16:54:37.643" Score="9" ViewCount="3197" Body="&lt;p&gt;Green wood has several drawbacks for use in most projects.  For the most part all of the wood you purchase is kiln dried.  One benefit of kiln drying is the time from forest to manufacture can be a few days (&lt;em&gt;possibly an oversimplification&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than reducing the time from forest to construction, does kiln drying have any benefits over natural aging? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2018-02-12T19:01:10.740" Title="Other than speed does kiln drying have any advantage over natural aging?" Tags="|green-wood|kiln-dried-wood|making-lumber|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="119" CreationDate="2015-03-18T16:57:39.450" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the short answer here is: Bark is never permanent, unless it's alive. One the one hand, imagine bark as your skin. The surface of your skin today is not made up of the same cells today as it was a month ago. Bark is very similar in this way. While it's living, it is constantly replenished and growing. Once this 'living' process is halted, the bark will break down and decay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certainly, there are all kinds of polyurethane, shellac and oils that will preserve the life of the bark on the walking stick; but, unfortunately the wood and the bark will decay, dry and change dimensions at different rates. Eventually the bark will mechanically separate from the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it might make more sense in this case to either strip the bark to finish the wood, or leave it natural. Eventually it will separate, and that is ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T16:57:39.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="196" CreationDate="2015-03-18T17:06:16.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kilns will work fast to dry the wood, in large planks that means that the end-grain will dry out first than the middle. This may lead to cracks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have climate controlled kiln then you can slow the drying down so the center of the wood can equalize before the stress becomes too big.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T17:06:16.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="199" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2418" CreationDate="2015-03-18T17:10:42.467" Score="5" ViewCount="1882" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do any wood-working power-tool manufacturers provide noise ratings for their equipment in typical usage scenarios?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood-working tools can be very loud.  Noise levels of 104 - 110 dB &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip43.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;have been measured in real-world use&lt;/a&gt;.  (Theoretically, the noise levels are supposed to be measured one meter away from the source of the noise.  One meter is 3' 3 3/8&quot;.)  &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/195&quot;&gt;Hearing protection is necessary&lt;/a&gt; around noises this loud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would expect manufacturers of fans, dust collection equipment, and other ventilators to provide noise ratings in sones.  (1 &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sone&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sone&lt;/a&gt; = 40 dB.  Doubling the number of sones is the same as a 10 dB increase, so 0.25 sones = 20 dB, and 4 sones = 60 dB.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="140" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T11:32:27.913" Title="Noise ratings of equipment" Tags="|safety|noise|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="195" CreationDate="2015-03-18T17:31:13.780" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When in the shop, it is wise to use hearing protection.  I prefer to use earmuffs rather than plugs but that is more of a comfort concern than having any scientific proof behind its efficacy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately I think the answer becomes &quot;if it is loud enough that you're reluctant to turn it on at night&quot; then you should absolutely have ear protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would find using two forms of hearing protection onerous, so I prefer to use just one good set of earmuffs which I also use at the rifle range.  Muffs designed to dampen the sound of gunshots are also perfect for power tools!  Just make sure that you purchase normal, low-tech earmuffs.  Some earmuffs sold for the rifle range will only block sudden loud noises (like a gunshot) while the constant whine of a power tool will pass through unimpeded.  You want universal sound suppression!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastEditorUserId="34" LastEditDate="2015-03-19T02:12:07.290" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T02:12:07.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="195" CreationDate="2015-03-18T18:05:42.493" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Occupational_Safety_and_Health_Administration&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OSHA&lt;/a&gt; defines what noise levels warrant hearing protection to assure safe working conditions. Excessive noise is generally defined as &lt;strong&gt;exposure to 85 or more decibels of sound over an 8 hour period.&lt;/strong&gt; But if the ambient noise &lt;em&gt;exceeds&lt;/em&gt; those levels, the amount of time until damage can occur will &lt;em&gt;decrease.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/odiZm.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hearing protectors must be tested and approved by the American National Standards (ANSI), and all devices must be labeled with a noise reduction rating (NRR) to quantify their effectiveness. The higher the NRR number, the greater the capacity for noise reduction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though NRR is expressed in decibels (dB), it is important to understand that &lt;strong&gt;hearing protectors DO NOT reduce the surrounding levels by that amount.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To calculate the &lt;em&gt;actual&lt;/em&gt; noise reduction, take the NRR rating, subtract 7, and then divide by two. So if you have a piece of machinery operating at 110 dB with hearing protection rated at 33 NRR, the reduction would look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;110 dB - (33 - 7) / 2&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  110 dB - 13&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;= 97 dB&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can then use the chart above to determine if addition noise protection is &lt;em&gt;necessary.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's obviously little downside to being overly conservative when it comes to protecting your hearing. I tend to use it even if I don't absolutely &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; it; it's just a good habit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are occasionally working with something &lt;em&gt;particularly&lt;/em&gt; loud, you can double up the methods of protection&amp;hellip; but if you do this often, it is best to just buy one, convenient piece of protection that will handle those levels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; layering, it is important to understand that layering noise protection is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; additive (i.e. 33 dB + 29 dB ≠ 62 dB reduction). At these ANSI-rated levels, you typically just take the higher level and add an additional 5 dB of noise reduction. In the case above, you'd end up with an effective rating of about &lt;strong&gt;38 dB NRR.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are concerned about blocking out the &quot;normal&quot; noises as a matter of safety (communicating with people, hearing alarms, etc), then you might want to consider investing in some &lt;strong&gt;electronic ear protection&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=electronic+ear+protection&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;search&lt;/a&gt;). Devices like these will provide an effective reduction of &lt;em&gt;loud&lt;/em&gt; noises while allowing (or even &lt;em&gt;amplifying&lt;/em&gt;) the normals sounds you might want to hear. That's pretty cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use electronic hearing protection almost exclusively. When I am working with loud equipment (or things that go &amp;lt;boom&gt;), I want to be able to hear the things going on around me. When the equipment goes off, I don't have to remove my hearing protection or remember to put it back on again. When it starts to get noisy, it's just there. And I like to assure that I can continue to communicate normally with the people or things around me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="80" LastEditorUserId="80" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T18:27:05.153" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T18:27:05.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="177" CreationDate="2015-03-18T19:07:16.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You asked about the word for the place where too pieces of wood meet. This is definitely a &lt;strong&gt;joint&lt;/strong&gt; and probably should not be called a &lt;strong&gt;join&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However to further add to the fun here, when referencing the machine known as a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jointer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Jointer&lt;/a&gt;, I have always heard the action of using this particular tool described by the verb &lt;strong&gt;joint&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Example: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Be sure you check the fence on the jointer table before you &lt;strong&gt;joint&lt;/strong&gt; those boards. I was &lt;strong&gt;jointing&lt;/strong&gt; something at a 2 degree angle earlier today, so it may not be square.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if this is colloquial or correct english, but I have heard this verb used constantly in several shops I have worked in over the years when referring to the act of using the jointer. I have not ever heard the more general act of creating a joint called &lt;strong&gt;jointing&lt;/strong&gt; to be clear, just the act of using the machine. This would merely be referred to as &lt;strong&gt;joining&lt;/strong&gt; or cutting joinery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is worth nothing many people call the machine &lt;strong&gt;jointer&lt;/strong&gt; a &lt;em&gt;joiner&lt;/em&gt; which is incorrect and very hard to distinguish from the correct name. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T19:12:35.467" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T19:12:35.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="94" CreationDate="2015-03-18T19:09:26.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I reinforced my carport, I added pressure-treated 2x4 bracing.  The ends were cut at an angle, so I sprayed on a heavy coat of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.coppergreen.com/wptcg.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Copper-Green&lt;/a&gt;&lt;SUP&gt;®&lt;/SUP&gt; Brown wood preservative on the exposed ends, and let them dry, before assembling the reinforcement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Copper-Green Brown will turn wood brown.  This is exactly what I wanted; the resulting color matches the brown color of the rest of the pressure-treated carport framing.  Other varieties are available, including &quot;green&quot; and &quot;clear&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Copper-Green is for exterior use &lt;strong&gt;only&lt;/strong&gt;.  Only apply it in a well ventilated area; wear a mask to avoid breathing it; and wear eye-protection while applying it.  Both the copper and the napthenate are toxic, so follow the labelling to &quot;Wash thoroughly with soap and water after handling and before eating.  Remove contaminated clothing and wash clothing before reuse.&quot;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It smells nasty, and the smell lingers for several days.  (The smell does go away eventually.)  The smell is because the product is copper napthenate.  Napthenates are aromatic hydrocarbons that can make crude oil acidic.  Napthenates help the copper penetrate the wood, and cause the copper to bond directly to the cellulose in the wood.  This means the treatment will last indefinitely; it will not be washed off by rain.  &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.coppergreen.com/wptcg.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;It is not easily lost from the wood by leaching.&lt;/a&gt;&quot;  The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.coppergreen.com/wpscb.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Material Safety Data Sheet&lt;/a&gt; (MSDS) is on-line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="140" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T19:09:26.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="199" CreationDate="2015-03-18T19:34:09.977" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the general answer to this is &quot;No&quot;. While I am sure there are some exceptions to this (I was not able to find a manufacturers noise rating on routers, saber saws or circular saws), it is generally accepted that power tools are noisy, and will be differingly noisy based on the task at hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are however some consumer review and reporting groups that may have this information for a select number of products. However, when I check my consumer reports account for some tools, sound was not a factor they rated, apart from the occasional stray comment regarding noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speculation: Until there is some kind of State or Federal regulation that requires manufacturers to rate and display their noise levels for equipment, I doubt they will do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T19:34:09.977" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="205" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="209" CreationDate="2015-03-18T19:37:44.623" Score="12" ViewCount="245" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can see well without glasses or contact lenses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What form(s) of eye-protection are convenient, provide good protection, and do not cause fogged vision?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that I need protection against both things that I can see (in front of my eyes), and things that are off to the sides.  Wrap-around goggles (even with holes for ventilation) tend to fog up, and keep me from seeing what I am working on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="140" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T20:01:16.353" Title="Eye protection for someone who does not wear glasses?" Tags="|safety|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="205" CreationDate="2015-03-18T19:44:20.630" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will make two suggestions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Close fitting, OSHA approved, polycarbonate 'wrap around' glasses. They look similar to the fake Oakley sunglasses I foolishly bought as a kid. They are surprisingly comfortable compared to something like goggles.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you have goggles, but don't like the fogging, trying 'Defogging Liquid/wipe'. These are available readily and often make a huge difference in your visibility.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I prefer polycarbonate, as I feel it tends to naturally fog up less. I will say my 'Stealth Safety' brand lab goggles form college still hold up and are very comfortable with great ventilation. However, at $35-55 they are not as easy on the wallet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T20:01:16.353" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T20:01:16.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="196" CreationDate="2015-03-18T19:50:41.413" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would propose that kiln-dried wood (in particular steam kilning) is sometimes inferior to naturally cured wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Advantages of Kiln Drying&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kiln dried lumber is more readily available&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Much faster than alternative drying methods&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Disadvantages to Kiln-Drying&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loss of Character&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Juglans_nigra&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;American Black Walnut&lt;/a&gt; is a great example of a wood that suffers when kiln dried. The wood looses tremendous character when it is dried in kilns. The heart-wood and sap-wood boundary is not nearly as vivid in kiln died walnut. This can be considered a benefit if the wood is used in certain commercial situations such as flooring. However in fine woodworking the loss in character is generally not desirable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another wood that I have noticed a difference in character between kiln dried and air dried is American Cherry, where the general depth of the color is noticeably muted in kiln dried cherry boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Potential Drying Defects&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Improper kiln drying can lead to some drying defects that may be difficult to see to the unaided or untrained eye. Examples include &lt;a href=&quot;https://ir.library.oregonstate.edu/xmlui/bitstream/handle/1957/1495/FPL_1369_ocr.pdf;jsessionid=CC9C96B15C5BA74B1A378C1A4AE8D4B4?sequence=1&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;honeycombing&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://ir.library.oregonstate.edu/xmlui/bitstream/handle/1957/1495/FPL_1369_ocr.pdf;jsessionid=CC9C96B15C5BA74B1A378C1A4AE8D4B4?sequence=1&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;case-hardening&lt;/a&gt;. These during defects usually render the lumber unsuitable for most fine woodworking and can also pose danger when working the wood in certain situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Advantages of Air Drying&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less Chance For Drying Defects&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest defect from air dried lumber is improper moisture content and perhaps warping due to poor stacking techniques. Problems such as case hardening and honeycombing are not found in air dried lumber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Better Color Retention in Certain Species&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference in color and character between kiln dried wood and air dried wood of the same species is unmistakable for certain species as mentioned above. Walnut and cherry are the most easily distinguished, although I am sure there are others. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Disadvantages of Air Drying&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air drying is just plain slow. The general rule of thumb is 1 year + 1 year per inch in thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Storage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Properly curing wood usually takes lots of good dry space. For most lumber operations this is a luxury that is tough to justify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall kiln dring is hard to dismiss as a viable way to bring wood to market. Most of the wood I have used over the years was kiln dried and very little of it suffered from any of the drying defects listed above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However it should be noted that due to the potential loss of character in certain species of wood, air drying should be considered if you are looking to work with these woods or want to highlight the natural character of woods with very dissimilar sap wood and heart wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T20:29:04.883" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T20:29:04.883" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="196" CreationDate="2015-03-18T19:52:32.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, the benefit of kiln drying is speeding up the drying process.  Actually most kiln drying (the rapid removal of moisture) actually damages the internal structure of the wood.  A slower drying process is better, one that takes multiple days and gives time for the wood to equalize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T19:52:32.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="205" CreationDate="2015-03-18T19:56:46.367" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that specific product recommendations are not appropriate, so I use these as an example of the type:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://hybrisimages.toolcommerce.com//prod/500X500/DPG54_1_500X500.jpg&quot; width=&quot;400&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found this style to be very comfortable and non-fogging. I often end up wearing them into the house without realizing they're still on my face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;I will note that this brand tends to be &quot;wallet light&quot; at my local big-box store.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:50.023" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T19:56:46.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="210" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="211" CreationDate="2015-03-18T20:08:24.590" Score="11" ViewCount="318" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gifted amateur working with variety of different woods like pine,oak and something from Indonesia that I haven't typed yet. If one needs to use caps or plugs for recessed screw/nails you would just go to the store and buy the ones to match your project. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have that wide variety of stores to draw from and of the ones that are accessible they are usually beveled and not flat. I don't typically stain my projects so it is important to me to match the colour from the get go. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To try and work with what I have I was trying to take saw dust from my cuts, mix it up with carpenters/wood glue and jam it in the hole. Once it dried chisel of the chunks and sand down. &#xA;It makes for a nice effect but moisture gets in there and usually ruins it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have any kludges or other approaches to making plugs or hiding screws in general?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T20:22:21.010" LastActivityDate="2019-02-28T20:04:18.597" Title="Making fake/pseudo plugs or caps" Tags="|finishing|screws|plugs|nails|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="210" CreationDate="2015-03-18T20:13:23.953" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's called a plug cutter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cWfGr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cWfGr.jpg&quot; width=&quot;500&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://assets.rockler.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/720x720/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/6/8/68960-01-1000.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rockler.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;image shamelessly &lt;strike&gt;stolen&lt;/strike&gt; borrowed from Rockler&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cut your plugs from a scrap piece of whatever you're making your project out of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, a screwdriver makes an excellent pry-bar for breaking the plug out of the board. I don't recall whether with- or cross-grain is the way to go, but it should take less than 30 seconds to figure that one out. Even if you do gouge the end of the plug a bit with the screwdriver, you can put that end in the hole and nobody will know, or if the plug is too deep, the damaged end can stick out and be removed when you cut/sand the plug flush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2019-02-28T20:04:18.597" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="212" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="359" CreationDate="2015-03-18T20:21:52.450" Score="9" ViewCount="1076" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a dinner table with crossed table legs made of tree branches with the bark still on (raw, no stain/finish/veneer). What type of tree would be best to use to make it stable and won't have the bark come of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T18:19:34.977" Title="What type of tree to use for branches as dinner table legs?" Tags="|furniture|natural-wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="163" CreationDate="2015-03-18T20:24:34.177" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to consider non-toxic alternatives:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You could use plastic edging, possibly reinforced with stakes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You could choose thin, untreated lumber that you are willing to have rot.  This would enrich the soil.  Choose thin, narrow lumber, so that it does not leave behind a hole big enough to break someone's ankle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You could place a gravel border.  Embed the stones in the ground, so that you can safely run a lawnmower wheel along the border, without risking &quot;mowing&quot; the stones.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consider using redwood, cedar, or another wood that rots more slowly than regular lumber, but is less toxic than pressure-treated lumber.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="140" LastEditorUserId="140" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T20:30:06.277" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T20:30:06.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="119" CreationDate="2015-03-18T20:26:08.697" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing to keep in mind is the season in which the branch was cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the wood is of a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deciduous&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;decidous&lt;/a&gt; variety the bark will be very easy to remove in the spring and very hard to remove in the fall. Keep this in mind if you are looking to leave the bark on the edges of boards in finished pieces or want to remove the bark easily in other situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the walking stick was cut in the fall, you may find that the bark will hang around for some time regardless how you finish it. Finishing may play a role in bark retention but if the stick was cut in the wrong season, you may find that the bark will come off regardless of how it is finished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastEditorUserId="400" LastEditDate="2016-10-24T03:13:24.450" LastActivityDate="2016-10-24T03:13:24.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="215" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1872" CreationDate="2015-03-18T20:43:59.450" Score="11" ViewCount="7533" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on building square picture frames and holding in glass, image, and cardboard backing. I'm concerned that certain hard woods may not be appropriate for glazier points; in particular I am unsure of whether or not the points will stay in place in the long term. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a 'hardness limit' to which woods would be appropriate for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, a glazier point is a small clip that is imbedded in the internal edge of the frame to hold the contents against the glass:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oI2OS.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Picture illustrating a glazier point and its installation&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.customframesolutions.com/pages/picture-frame-corner&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image Source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user148" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-06-25T14:42:29.873" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T15:49:52.610" Title="What woods are soft enough for glazier points?" Tags="|wood-selection|framing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="216" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="284" CreationDate="2015-03-18T21:19:48.300" Score="6" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Scioto coffin plane whose mouth is a little on the wide side. I'd like to glue a piece of wood inside the front of the throat to close it up, but I don't know if rubbing end grain against the face of my work is the best idea. Is there another way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="81" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T15:20:42.783" Title="Closing mouth on coffin plane" Tags="|tools|hand-planing|hand-tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="215" CreationDate="2015-03-18T21:33:11.313" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for a method to secure the contents of the frame and aren't particularly attached to glazier points, you could try something like a turn button. You can pilot the screw holes to secure the turn buttons, so it shouldn't matter as much if you're working with softwoods or hardwoods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7qqvH.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.customframesolutions.com/pages/picture-frame-corner&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image Source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T21:33:11.313" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="218" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-18T21:52:51.563" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;toxicity&quot; tag is good for questions about material safety and potential toxicity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Preventing lead poisoning&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Child-safe finishes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Avoiding breathing dangerous fumes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Where to find Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDSes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choosing safer alternative materials and finishes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Environmentally friendly materials and finishes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to safely dispose of materials and finishes without polluting the environment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resources:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Wood Database's table of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-allergies-and-toxicity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wood Allergies and Toxicity&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="140" LastEditorUserId="140" LastEditDate="2015-03-19T13:42:34.917" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T13:42:34.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="219" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-18T21:52:51.563" Score="0" Body="For questions about material safety, potential toxicity, and minimizing pollution." OwnerUserId="140" LastEditorUserId="140" LastEditDate="2015-03-19T13:43:35.543" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T13:43:35.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="220" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="221" CreationDate="2015-03-18T22:10:07.940" Score="16" ViewCount="4541" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old wooden desk with a middle draw that has a center support that the drawer slides back and forth on.  The friction creates drag that prevents the opening and closing action from seeming smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could I add to reduce the friction in the wood-on-wood slide?  It is underneath the desktop, so appearance is not really an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-03-19T15:04:09.483" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T15:04:09.483" Title="What can I coat a wooden drawer slide with to reduce drag?" Tags="|finishing|drawer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="220" CreationDate="2015-03-18T22:20:53.123" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good go-to solution is wax. Either some paste wax, or in a pinch you could rub a candle on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also rubbed a bar of soap on wooden drawer slides in the past, though I'm sure there are plenty of reasons &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; to use soap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T22:20:53.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="222" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-18T22:22:22.737" Score="5" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a convenient, easy-to-access source for Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDSes) that does not require registration or payment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good website or reference book for wood-working MSDSes should make it easy to look up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Products by manufacturer or brand name (such as Copper-Green Brown)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Products by chemical name (such as copper naphthenate)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Include a wide variety of wood working materials, glues, and finishes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not require registration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="140" LastEditorUserId="140" LastEditDate="2015-04-01T15:10:04.443" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T15:10:04.443" Title="Is there a canonical source for retrieving Material Safety Data Sheets?" Tags="|toxicity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2015-03-20T01:22:32.983" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="222" CreationDate="2015-03-18T22:35:43.217" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if it's required by law, but many companies make their MSDSes publicly available for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.titebond.com/ProductMSDSCO.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.titebond.com/ProductMSDSCO.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://msds.gp.com/msdsinternet/?bu=bp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://msds.gp.com/msdsinternet/?bu=bp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, some resellers provide the MSDSes for products they sell:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/material-safety-datasheets-msds.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/material-safety-datasheets-msds.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also often find the MSDS for a product or chemical by searching for the product or chemical name along with &quot;msds&quot; in Google, Bing, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T22:50:53.547" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T22:50:53.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="222" CreationDate="2015-03-18T22:40:14.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best I can currently do is search Google (or Duck, or Bing) for the product name, followed by MSDS.  For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Googling:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=Copper%20Green%20Brown%20MSDS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Copper Green Brown MSDS&lt;/a&gt; gives the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.coppergreen.com/wpscg.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MSDS&lt;/a&gt; as the first link.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ducking:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://duckduckgo.com/?q=Copper%20Green%20Brown%20MSDS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Copper Green Brown MSDS&lt;/a&gt; also gives the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.coppergreen.com/wpscg.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MSDS&lt;/a&gt; as the first link.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="140" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T22:40:14.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="220" CreationDate="2015-03-18T22:55:39.473" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;candle wax as mentioned in the other answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise glue some hardwood strips on the surface. Hardwood doesn't wear as fast as softer woods and be able to provide a smoother surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some low-friction tapes you can stick to one or both of the surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T22:55:39.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="191" CreationDate="2015-03-19T00:06:01.240" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It probably doesn't make much difference, but I suspect it also depends on your application. If your joint must withstand more shearing force, I would expect the smooth dowels to be slightly stronger at resisting shearing, all else being equal. If you have a single dowel that must withstand rotational force (such as in a knob), maybe a grooved dowel is better (like treaded vs. bald tires). If the joint must withstand pulling or racking force along the length of the dowel, there may not be much difference at all, but I would somewhat expect the grooved dowel joint to be weaker since glue on its own is not a good filler and the insides of the grooves are just open space with no mating surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've always thought the grooved dowels were simply designed to be easier to push in. The grooves provide reduced contact area between the dowel and the walls of the hole, and at the same time they provide channels for any excess glue if you didn't drill the hole slightly deeper than the dowel. This also means you won't get an air-tight seal that causes compressed air and/or glue to push dowel back outward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, perhaps the grooved dowels are slightly oversized, and they deform inside the holes so they remain compressed and tight-fitting at all times.  But you could just as easily make a tight fit using a smooth dowel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T00:06:01.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="119" CreationDate="2015-03-19T01:58:06.613" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could fully encase the stick in a thick urethane so that it's not at all exposed, but that probably defeats the purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T01:58:06.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="119" CreationDate="2015-03-19T02:06:30.407" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use epoxy resin, thinned with acetone, and brush it on. Use a very thin mix for the first coat, then if necessary, come back with a second coat. Acetone will allow the epoxy to flow and penetrate deep into the fibers of the bark and wood, and stablize it. It will change the appearance of course, making it look darker and &quot;finished&quot;, but I don't think you'd be able to avoid that with any method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="68" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T02:06:30.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="229" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="241" CreationDate="2015-03-19T02:10:06.477" Score="13" ViewCount="21002" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently made a tabletop for a rolling tool cart using 2x4's jointed and pocket-screwed.  When I set the table upon the cart I noticed a very serious bow, almost like I was starting to make a barrel!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What methods are there to prevent this from happening during a fastening or glue-up scenario?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-05-07T06:04:50.390" LastActivityDate="2021-04-03T16:12:49.850" Title="What is a good way to prevent jointed tabletops from bowing when tightening fasteners or the glue sets?" Tags="|joinery|fasteners|warp|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="230" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-19T02:26:13.080" Score="6" ViewCount="11006" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a block plane that I picked up from Lowes a few months ago.  I took it apart recently to clean the blade but when I tried to put it back together I was unable to get consistent results when passing the plane over the wood.  There was significant tear-out, leading me to believe I may have put the blade in wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked for comprehensive instructions on how a plane is disassembled/reassembled but have not found a good canonical source of this information.  Can anyone provide some details in this regard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-16T14:11:15.387" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T16:51:19.180" Title="How do I completely disassemble a hand plane to clean it and then reassemble it?" Tags="|hand-tools|plane|tool-maintenance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="231" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="244" CreationDate="2015-03-19T02:28:52.240" Score="14" ViewCount="23393" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own both a belt sander and random orbit sander.  I've found that as I've worked on improving my finishing technique, I will oftentimes go for the random orbit sander over any other sanding implements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am curious if the belt sander has a specific use for which it excels, to the point where it is a more efficient tool than a random orbit sander for the job?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T10:41:07.680" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T10:41:07.680" Title="In what situations would I use a belt sander versus a random orbit sander?" Tags="|finishing|sanding|power-tools|random-orbit-sander|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="232" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-19T02:34:01.013" Score="6" ViewCount="6515" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried unsuccessfully to make picture frames on a few occasions.  I find that when I am trying to make a miter joint, I err on the side of caution and start &quot;long&quot; and trim my way down to square.  I feel like this is not the best way to execute a miter joint for a picture frame.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the proper way to measure for a miter joint?  Are you supposed to measure your stock from the outside of the miter (outer edge) or the inside corner of the miter?  Are there any helpful tips on this process to make it easier?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2021-03-04T19:31:35.610" Title="How does one measure stock for miter cuts?" Tags="|measurement|planning|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="230" CreationDate="2015-03-19T02:49:26.437" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For mere assembly, please see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tooltrip.com/tooltrip9/stanley/stan-bpl/edsheets.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.tooltrip.com/tooltrip9/stanley/stan-bpl/edsheets.pdf&lt;/a&gt; These are the instructions created by Stanley Tools years ago and apply generally to all 'vanilla' hand planes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The steps for tuning the plane are many depending on the use you have in mind. Generally, they include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;flattening the bed, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ensuring that the frog sits well,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;flattening the back of the iron, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;honing the edge of the blade,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ensuring the cap sit well on the blade, and &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;adjusting the depth of cut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several sources to track down. The first ones that comes to mind are by  author Christopher Schwarz. He has a youtube video &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WAYcwubAO2E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WAYcwubAO2E&lt;/a&gt; regarding the setup of a brand new plane, a book on hand planes, Handplane Essentials, which covers setup and a dvd, Super-Tune a Handplane. There are others, just he sprang to mind immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastEditorUserId="111" LastEditDate="2015-03-19T15:46:35.490" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T15:46:35.490" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="232" CreationDate="2015-03-19T03:10:50.507" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was taught to measure to the inside (mainly because it was important to fit the frame to the glass, which went on the inside) and to cut via a mitre box to the outside of the line marked, that is is to say, less than half mm proud of the full length. Then take a shooting board and trim with a nice tuned hand plane. In practice, you can skip the mitre box if you a have a very fine tooled saw, but I still use the handplane and shooting board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This article from Popular Woodworking may be helpful: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/ShootingBoard2.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/ShootingBoard2.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Years ago I bought a Jorgensen compound miter saw that I am still quite happy with (although it is no guarantee as to the worth of the current crop). I still use a shooting board with board cut on that saw as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T03:10:50.507" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="235" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="238" CreationDate="2015-03-19T03:26:17.420" Score="12" ViewCount="3092" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using 5.5 inch wide cedar fence board as lapboard style siding on a chicken coop. The roof is a ~22 degrees shed style roof. I'm having trouble making the long cuts which touch the roof. The one cut I made in the picture below was much more difficult than I wanted it to be. I do not own a table saw or a sliding miter saw. I do have available a circular saw (which I used for this one cut) and a miter saw with a 10 inch blade. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best strategy for making such a long cut?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g02c1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JmeAj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-07-18T15:25:59.537" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T21:33:16.383" Title="How to make a long shallow cut on a narrow piece of wood with a circular saw" Tags="|technique|cutting|circular-saw|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="229" CreationDate="2015-03-19T03:33:44.350" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always clamp jointed boards with some good, straight hardwood boards across their faces. This way, you'll use long clamps across the face of the jointed boards to keep your joints together, and shorter clamps to clamp your truing boards to the face. Use a pair of boards with the work piece between them. When it sets up, it should not be bowed at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/96Stj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;here is a maple table top I clamped this way&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="145" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T03:33:44.350" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="237" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-19T03:35:41.167" Score="16" ViewCount="17363" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently came into possession of a wonderful turned maple bowl however there is one downside. There is a small crack about halfway through the bowl. The crack goes fully from top to bottom but not fully left to right. The bowl is not about to fall apart but I think after a while of putting fruit into it, or several used as a salad serving bowl the crack would spread and weaken. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to glue this and (bonus points) glue it with a food safe glue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XdfvF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-04-15T19:01:02.700" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T23:39:48.870" Title="How to effectively fix a crack in a turned bowl" Tags="|glue|bowl|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="235" CreationDate="2015-03-19T03:58:37.027" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need a guide board. Figure out the distance from the edge of the circular saw blade to the edge of the plate, preferably not the side that the motor hangs over, or your board will have to be very thin to fit underneath it. Clamp the board (make sure it's a straight one!) to the work piece parallel to the cut line, at the distance you measured on your circular saw. Run the plate of the saw along the guide board as you cut, and your cut will follow your cut line exactly. I did this for a long time back before I got a table saw, and still do it when cutting large stock like plywood sheets that can't easily be cut on the table saw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="145" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T03:58:37.027" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="237" CreationDate="2015-03-19T04:11:35.023" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it were mine, I think I'd either try a tinted epoxy or epoxy-based filler.  Or I'd accept the crack but stabilize it with a butterfly inlay... or just accept the crack as part of the character of the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-03-19T13:57:27.707" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T13:57:27.707" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="232" CreationDate="2015-03-19T04:36:21.113" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Often in woodworking the best practice is to cut slightly over the final size, then sneak up on the final dimension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One great solution for getting perfect miter joints is to use a miter sled. Once you build the sled, you'll be able to cut square miters every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H00prACPflw&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H00prACPflw&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/511/table-saw-miter-sled.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/511/table-saw-miter-sled.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what about the actual lengths of the pieces? Use stop blocks clamped to the fences of your miter sled to cut multiple pieces to exactly the same length. Presumably you have a rabbet cut into the back so you can insert the glass (if using glass), photo, and backing. Don't measure from the outside corner of a miter joint or the inside corner, but rather from what will become the outer edge of the rabbet. Be sure to make your frame slightly larger than the glass (if using glass) and the photo or mat that you'll be inserting into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Common picture frame sizes are 4x6, 5x7, 8x10...notice a pattern?  That's right, the short sides are 2&quot; shorter than the long sides. Make a 2&quot;x2&quot; square spacer to help set up for the shorter sides after you cut the long sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T04:36:21.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="229" CreationDate="2015-03-19T04:52:29.713" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;A common solution is to alternate your clamps between top and bottom:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qHMdv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alternating clamps for a panel glue-up&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another solution is to clamp boards down across the panel as Drew suggested, although an even better variation on this solution is to use cauls, which start out curved but evenly distribute the pressure across the surface as they are flexed flat against both sides of the panel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Izbhj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;panel glue-up with cauls&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read more about cauls: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.familyhandyman.com/woodworking/how-to-clamp/view-all#step2&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.familyhandyman.com/woodworking/how-to-clamp/view-all#step2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But even if you use both of the above solutions, your panel can still bow and warp with changes in humidity, so it's important to let it acclimate first, as Matt suggested, by letting it sit for at least a week or two, assuming the lumber was already kiln-dried or adequately air-dried. If possible, let it acclimate to the environment in which it will ultimately be used--for example, if it will be in your dining room, let it acclimate inside your house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also minimize movement by using quartersawn lumber and cutting out the pith. If you're stuck using the typically low-quality lumber from a home center, the best you can do may be to look at the grain direction and alternate it every other board, so one board will cup downward, the next will cup upward, the next downward, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-04-27T15:25:47.520" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T15:25:47.520" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="163" CreationDate="2015-03-19T05:13:46.973" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're kinda fighting a loosing battle.  A high grade marine varnish such as Epifanes would do the best in terms of water and UV protection, but I doubt it would give you the look you want.  Here's a link to some other alternative marine finishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/Wood-Finishes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/Wood-Finishes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T05:13:46.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="243" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="245" CreationDate="2015-03-19T05:33:30.000" Score="5" ViewCount="741" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in a single story home with an integrated garage shop.  I'm considering leveraging the crawlspace above the ceiling as a mounting point for a centralized DC.  Running the lines within the crawlspace would be preferable to messing up my shop with all that PVC.  I'd also like the idea of having the additional sound barrier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Operating temperatures are a concern as it gets HOT up there.  I was thinking about placing a small remote camera to monitor the dust bin... However I'm not sure that this is really realistic as most of the containers are steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was also thinking about cutting out and mounting a drop-down stair system for dust retrieval.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T12:39:29.673" Title="Should I locate a centralized dust collector in a roof crawlspace above a garage shop?" Tags="|sawdust|dust-collection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="231" CreationDate="2015-03-19T07:07:14.377" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like a belt sander when I need to really remove some material like paint for example, I think it cuts better. an Orbital I like for finer sanding it offers a lot more control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="110" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T07:07:14.377" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="243" CreationDate="2015-03-19T10:58:27.897" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless there is a space concern within the shop area, I'd keep the dust collection bin inside the shop, but run the PVC piping up through this crawl space. In other words, run the PVC directly up into the ceiling and then through the crawl space over to a central point where you'd have a down pipe going to your collection vacuum. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two potential issues with keeping the dust bin up in this space. One is space itself. A dust collection vacuum and bag are usually fairly large, larger than what a &quot;crawlspace&quot; would lend itself to. Secondly, if you can fit the bag up there, when it's full it's going to be big, bulky, and heavy. Getting the collection material out of there is going to be very tough. Even with a drop down stair, this is not going to be an easy or fun proposition. If you have a dust collection bag which is small enough to fit in the area you are talking about, you'll be in the position of having to clean it out on a very regular basis. You'll also have to ensure the roof structure is strong enough to support the weight of the collection vacuum as well as the load of dust when the bag is full. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a separate note, if heat build-up is a factor in this space, I'd suggest you install an attic fan to draw out the heat. There are plenty of options out there for this and are fairly easy to install ... once you get past the idea of cutting a very large hole in a perfectly good roof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T10:58:27.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="231" CreationDate="2015-03-19T12:25:58.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find myself using my belt sander less and less.  I really only use it when I need to remove a lot of material, whether that is a finish or if it is rough.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that for years I only use it if I need 60 or 80 grit work done, or I have a very large area, like a table top where the belt sander will get the job done much faster. But even there, if I go down to 100 grit, after that I use my random orbit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also find the orbit has a more control and I don't have to fight with it all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T12:25:58.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="235" CreationDate="2015-03-19T12:37:37.403" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Drew said you can use a guide board.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when using a circular saw myself, I just draw the straight line I need to cut and then make sure the piece that needs to be cut is secured (often a partner holding it down but a simple clamp or two can work too).  Of course the board will be flat (like a piece of plywood sitting on saw horses) to the ground.  Cutting along the line is pretty easy, there is a mark on the front guide that shows you where the blade cuts, keep it on the line.  Just don't push the saw faster than it wants to cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bonus, when you are getting short boards like that, you can get 2 pieces with one cut!  the second board just need to be cut to length square!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T12:37:37.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="243" CreationDate="2015-03-19T12:39:29.673" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to Paulster2's points, you'll be making your dust collector work harder. If your crawlspace is small and well sealed, it will quickly become pressurized,  since you're basically pumping air into it from your shop. At the same time,  you're putting the shop at a slightly lower pressure. Pumping air from lower pressure to higher pressure will decrease the performance of your dust collection system and put a greater strain on the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do decide on mounting the system in the crawl space, adding a return air duct back into the garage should help alleviate this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T12:39:29.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="237" CreationDate="2015-03-19T12:45:27.877" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect that it actually isn't going to get any worse.  However, what is generally accepted practice is to use epoxy. If you want to hide the crack and patch you can mix in some sawdust, in this case maple sawdust would be best.  As an alternative, you could mix in some other colorful stuff to make it pop. Ground turquoise is a common choice for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course any glue or epoxy will leave a bit of a mess and will need to be cleaned up. You might end up needing to refinishing the whole piece. If that is the case, nut oils are food safe and so is carnuba wax, which is hypoallergenic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-03-19T13:57:18.423" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T13:57:18.423" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="231" CreationDate="2015-03-19T12:57:34.743" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually use my belt sander for large surface where I need to remove a lot of material, such as an uneven biscuit joint.  To be honest, I also use it when my patience is running low and my orbital or 1/3 sheet sander is not fast enough...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although, it's not really related to woodworking, I found a belt sander really useful to level an even sub-floor section when installing the flooring. (Such as sanding down an uneven joint between two plywood or OSB sheets.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T12:57:34.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="189" CreationDate="2015-03-19T13:22:28.577" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Finishing should probably get its own SE site. :) I only partially jest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case you will be up against several limitations to getting the finish that I think you are looking for, none of which should be considered insurmountable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flatness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Contamination&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flow&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to keep at it and try to get a nice even finish you will need to begin to flatten the actual varnish that is currently on the counter top taking care around the edges and corners not to sand through the finish. You need to physically cut the finish flat before considering adding more varnish on top of what is currently there because you are correct, future coats will only follow and magnify any contours that are present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have a couple of approaches to do this now with a varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Flattening Finishes&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fine grit sandpaper and a sanding block. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the time you don't actually need an actual block of wood to back up your sandpaper, sometimes you can get by with a stiff pad of some kind when sanding finishes such as lacquer. Varnishes are harder and stickier so you may want to opt for something pretty stiff to back up the sand paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few more tips. Get a high quality 400 - 600 grit sticky back paper for finishing. 400 is about right. With the sticky back stuff, it comes in 4&quot; or 4.5&quot; rolls, you can get more creative and work faster when sanding finishes. You can wet sand it or dry sand it after a few days of curing. Wet is probably the way to go here. Be prepared to change to paper often. It will gum up and stop cutting then the temptation will be to just sand more vigorously which can lead to unevenness and sanding through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually keep a sharp wedge of wood handy (picture a 5 degree incline plane 2 inches wide) to scrape the finish off of my sanding block / pad to get more milage out of the paper. The wood scraper does not damage the paper like a metal tool would and you can keep cutting at least twice as long per piece of paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Work in sections and dry the surface and evaluate your progress. You do want to evenly flatten the finish. I think you know what you are looking for, an even sheen indicating you have cut down the high points to the valleys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you completely sand though one coat into another you will sometime see ghost rings that can be seen under the correct light. These appear at the boundaries of coats of finish and are usually not something to worry about in a varnish finish as additional coats will cause these to be unnoticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cabinet Scraper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GUvcb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cabinet Scraper&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A properly sharpened cabinet scraper can work miracles with a thick varnish finish. I add this just to tantalize you :). I have created mirror flat poly finishes with this tool and some good luck. I would consider this an advanced technique and would recommend practicing before I tried flattening a finish on an important project. However the time that a scraper can save you in sanding make it worth considering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key to this technique is to get a supremely fine and even burr on this guy and actually shave the finish with the lightest of pressure. On a well cured varnish, several days, you can almost produce little curls of finish. Care should be taken not to dig into the finish with the corners. (I usually round the corners on my cabinet scraper anyways for this very reason, not much mind you.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a scraper has the disadvantage of being a more difficult technique but it can save hours if you get it right. The scraper will not gum up like paper and can produce a surface that is superior to all but the finest sandpaper. I would also only use a scraper with a varnish finish, the thicker finish the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Applying Final Coat&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you have satisfactorily flattened you finish, often done between coats of lacquer as well, you need to lay down the final coat or coats. The finish will need to flow properly but not be too thin and with a varnish, contamination is a big danger as these finishes take much longer to set up compared to a spray finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Applying the final coat of a varnish finish is probably beyond the scope of your question and I mainly wanted to highlight ways to flatten an existing coat varnish as this seems to be your most obvious next step. Best of luck Sir! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T13:22:28.577" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="252" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="253" CreationDate="2015-03-19T13:47:56.383" Score="7" ViewCount="1658" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bowed board that is longer than the infeed table on my jointer. When I pass it over the blades, the lay of the board changes as the board rides up the trailing edge of the jointer infeed table. This is causing uneven planes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I properly joint a piece of wood that is longer than my infeed table?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T15:30:07.510" Title="How can I joint a board that is longer than my jointer infeed table?" Tags="|jointer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="252" CreationDate="2015-03-19T13:47:56.383" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The solution is to treat the leading and trailing ends of the bowed board like separate pieces.  Joint them individually until you can pass the entire board over the jointer without changing the lay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure your jointer is set up so that it's removing a layer much thinner than the total deviation of the bow in your wood.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Carefully&lt;/em&gt; lay the board over the jointer such that the highest point of the bow is approximately over the jointer blades. Since the jointer is removing a much smaller amount than the bowed deviation, the blades shouldn't be in contact with the board.  If they are, this is dangerous. You need to reinspect your board to make sure you understand how it's bowed and verify your jointer infeed table is at the proper height.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pass the trailing end of the board over the jointer as you would normally, taking care to not change the lay of the board when the leading end passes beyond the edge of the outfeed table. You may need an assistant to support the leading end of the board as you do this.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Repeat steps 2 and 3 until you can rest the board on the infeed table and the point-of-contact of the trailing end of the board is jointed and planar.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pass the leading end of the board over the jointer, stopping halfway down the board at a point where the blades are no longer in contact with the board. Because the trailing contact of the board is jointed and planar, the lay of the board should not change as you pass it over the jointer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Repeat step 5 about as many times as you jointed the trailing edge of the board. It is ok that the jointed surfaces of the leading and trailing edges of the board are not co-planar.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When you are comfortable with the sizes of the jointed surfaces, you can choose a lay based on either the leading or trailing plane, whichever best suites your project. You should now be able to joint the entire length of the board while maintaining your chosen lay. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T13:47:56.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="220" CreationDate="2015-03-19T14:21:11.127" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another alternative -- modern upgrade from wax -- would be &quot;ultrahigh molecular weight&quot; (UHMW) plastic, such as teflon. This is available in a number of forms, one of which is thin self adhesive tape. It doesn't look as traditional as wax,  of course, but ir it's on the underside of the drawer anyone who notices it will also know why it's there, so...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T14:21:11.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="252" CreationDate="2015-03-19T14:38:36.407" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It all depends on what you are trying to do.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First if it is really bowed you need to realize that then ends are going to end up much narrower.  Set the board with the bow up on a flat surface and measure the highest point of the gap in the middle.  The is how much narrower the ends are going to be from the middle of the board. Of course if that is acceptable then you can always straighten out the other side on the table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to reduce the narrow ends problem is to shorten the board, cutting it in half will make it much less noticeable.  But cutting it down much closer to final length will help, especially if cutting off from the side of the worst offender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you just plane it, run it through and don't try to push harder to get it to plane more, you can make the cut larger to speed up the first few passes, but generally it's not recommended to go more than 1/8&quot; at a time.  Each pass will shave off a wider and wider section of the board and eventually they will meet in the middle (or near the highest spot).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T14:38:36.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="231" CreationDate="2015-03-19T14:50:54.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find the belt sander is good for larger pieces, especially long one like planks and boards. I used it for cleaning boards from pallets that I disassemble. Hands down it is much faster. Just need to be extra careful not to stay in one place too long (Sanding in general is like that I suppose but the faster the tool the greater the risk.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Orbital sanders, at least mine, generally cannot perform at the same speed. Ideally I use my orbital for small pieces that are &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; flat or have harder to reach places. Examples would be chairs and birdhouses. I also use it for cleaning the edges of wood all the time in an effort to create a soft curve as supposed to a hard angle that would be created after a 90 degree cut. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-03-20T00:50:04.877" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T00:50:04.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="170" CreationDate="2015-03-19T14:54:43.607" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Quality Related to Jamming&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best answer to this question would be to run an experiment and report the jam rates for different grades of nail guns, with different grades of nails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, since most users most likely won't have a number of differing quality nail guns at their disposal, I can tell you the experience I've had with my mid-range quality &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000H399PC&quot;&gt;Hitachi 18 gauge brad nailer&lt;/a&gt;. Maybe others can chip in if they've got a high quality nailer, or a lower quality nailer and we can make a complete answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I generally buy the cheapest nails I can find at the big box store, and I've &lt;strong&gt;never&lt;/strong&gt; had my mid-range quality nailer jam on me. I mainly use Porter Cable and Hitachi nails of varying lengths, from 3/4&quot; to 2&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From an engineer's perspective, I'd expect the nail gun itself to play the biggest factor against jamming. Variables would include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consistency of feed and fastener placement in the magazine. If the nailer places the next fastener in a different spot under the drive head each time, you're more likely to have a jam. A higher quality nail gun should have better consistency.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Component tolerances. All the moving parts in the nail gun should be designed and manufactured to slide smoothly without interference. A cheaper quality gun may have machining defects or a looser fit between components, which could lead to a jam.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the fasteners, the most important aspect would be uniformity. If the nail gun is designed for a certain size of fastener, and the low quality nails are outside of that design spec, you'll experience more jams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Quality with Respect to Other Factors&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jam free operation isn't the only factor that is affected by quality. Others include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consistent depth setting. This may be affected slightly by the glue used to collate the fasteners, but the biggest factor will be nailer quality.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mar-free operation. Nicer nail guns will have a shoe over their safety mechanism to keep it from marking or scratching the work piece.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ergonomics and reduced user fatigue. Higher quality tools will be engineered to shave off extra weight and make it easier for the user to work with.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastEditorUserId="38" LastEditDate="2015-03-19T15:01:24.483" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T15:01:24.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="258" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="260" CreationDate="2015-03-19T15:07:36.177" Score="23" ViewCount="5883" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am fairly new to woodworking and just starting to outfit my shop with power tools. One area that I find confusing is the use case for a jointer vs. a planer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both tools seem to have very similar capabilities, and probably could substitute for one another on certain jobs. I've got a limited budget and space. So I need to prioritize whether to get a planer or jointer. Versatility will definitely be a priority in this decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the interest of making the answer useful beyond just my situation, I'm looking for an answer that summarizes for each tool which tasks they are ideal for, which tasks you can reasonably manage with them, and tasks which just aren't advisable/possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other guidance in your answer as to deciding between these two tools is also welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-03-24T18:34:06.143" LastActivityDate="2017-11-22T04:24:21.090" Title="When should I use a Jointer vs. a Planer?" Tags="|tools|jointer|power-tools|thickness-planer|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="258" CreationDate="2015-03-19T15:21:33.943" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;A planer is used for making two edges parallel while a jointer is used for making straight or flat surfaces. Let's say you have a warped board (suppose it looks like a banana from end to end). If you pass it through a planer, it will enter as a banana and exit as a banana. A jointer, on the other hand, will shave off bits of the banana, little by little, until it comes out flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if you have a board that is one inch thick on one side, and 1/2 in thick on the other, passing it through a jointer will NOT make the two sides of the board equal. See the image below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EG04I.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you need both. There are ways to rig a planer to flatten a board, but I don't think there's a way to make the sides of a board parallel with a jointer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit&lt;/em&gt; With limited budgets, it's probably not a bad idea to look into a jointer/planer (e.g., &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.grizzly.com/products/G0675&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.grizzly.com/products/G0675&lt;/a&gt;). One cutter head is used for both planing and jointing--it just requires some sort of adjustment. I don't know how that adjustment is done because I don't own one. (I didn't learn about these until after I bought both a jointer and a planer). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit 2&lt;/em&gt; Here's a video that shows you how to surface a board with a planer: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/workshop/video/a-planer-sled-for-milling-lumber.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.finewoodworking.com/workshop/video/a-planer-sled-for-milling-lumber.aspx&lt;/a&gt;. I actually built this jig before I bought my jointer and found it so cumbersome that I just bought a jointer. (Although, I was using dull knives at the time, which makes it nearly impossible to pass the board through the sled without it sliding off.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another couple of options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;have the lumberyard surface and straightline your lumber. They do an okay job, but if you're making fine furniture, don't expect your piece to be perfectly square. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Surface your material with a handplane. This is a long process (and quite tedious), and it may cost you quite a bit to get a good hand plane capable of doing the job. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastEditorUserId="3" LastEditDate="2015-03-19T17:41:33.863" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T17:41:33.863" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="258" CreationDate="2015-03-19T15:22:55.120" Score="19" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A planer&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;will ensure that 2 opposite faces of a piece of wood are parallel to each other&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;will generally handle wider pieces of wood&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is not the appropriate tool for working the narrow edge of a 'wide' x 'thin' board (think shelving), as you cannot safely feed a tall, skinny piece of wood through it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;allow you to make an uneven board an even thickness from one end to the other*&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A jointer &#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;will ensure that 2 adjacent faces of a piece of wood are at a 90° angle to each other (assuming the fence is set at 90°)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;will generally handle narrower (6&quot; or less) pieces of wood (Note, industrial sized jointers can be had in 12&quot; or larger, but $$$$$)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;can make two opposite sides of a piece of wood parallel by running the same adjacent side of the wood against the fence and jointing the sides to be parallel. (this might take some work and shimming)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;*borrowed from Dfife's answer&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2015-03-19T15:40:20.463" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T15:40:20.463" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="261" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-19T15:29:33.000" Score="8" ViewCount="1549" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ignoring time &amp;amp; space issues, focusing only on the strength &amp;amp; durability of the wood after the bend has set, what is going to give better results?  We know from the answers at &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/196&quot;&gt;Other than speed does kiln drying have any advantage over natural aging?&lt;/a&gt; that natural aging has advantage in the quality of the end product.  In this case though we are intentionally altering the curvature of the wood.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bending and storing green wood (frames, canes, keels, etc) in its final form&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Steaming naturally or kiln dried wood as above, for the short time it takes to dry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2017-01-06T06:21:27.360" Title="Is green or steamed wood better for bending?" Tags="|green-wood|bending|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="252" CreationDate="2015-03-19T15:30:07.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Build a temporary extension to the infeed table by supporting a piece of plywood or other suitable scrap on some adjustable height work supports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T15:30:07.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="258" CreationDate="2015-03-19T15:31:11.773" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree that you should have both. However if there were budget and space considerations I would go with a jointer. A jointer is going to enable you to get those precise surfaces for joining your wood. &#xA;A planer on the other hand is a smoothing/sizing tool and much of what you do with it can be done with a little more elbow grease using hand planers and sanding. Often when you are purchasing rough cut lumber at specialty lumbar yards they can run your purchase through a planer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="110" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T15:31:11.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="50" CreationDate="2015-03-19T15:34:03.450" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on your comment (i.e., you're more interested in the look than the feel), it'd suggest using a matte finish. Rich Lawrence suggested a water-based poly, but I'd actually go for an oil-based poly (varnish). Water-based poly's aren't very scratch resistant (I actually finished my oak table with a water-based and had to replace it within a few months). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A matte finish will reduce the reflectivity you'd otherwise get from a glossy finish, will protect the wood moreso than an oil (tung oil, boiled linseed oil, mineral oil, etc), and (once it has cured) is food-safe. Depending on how scuffed the surface is, you might have to apply using a spray gun. I once tried to finish reclaimed wood with a brush and got splinters of wood in my brush, so watch out for that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is an example of a box I built for my wife's photo business. The inside was planed, so it has a smooth surface. The edges and the outside, however, were left rough and covered with a matte varnish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B0t7H.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Unfinished wood with a matte finish&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastEditorUserId="3" LastEditDate="2015-03-19T17:50:33.677" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T17:50:33.677" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="265" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="266" CreationDate="2015-03-19T15:46:58.410" Score="19" ViewCount="21196" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased my first Band saw and am loving its versatility for making curved cuts even in thick wood. However, when it comes to situations where I need a precisely straight line, for example re-sawing lumber and cutting veneers I find that even with a fence it is very difficult, especially with very thick or very hard wood, to not get some drift away from a straight line. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some strategies for combating drift on a stationary band saw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36" LastEditorUserId="36" LastEditDate="2015-10-29T17:47:47.350" LastActivityDate="2017-08-16T10:12:48.967" Title="What can I do to eliminate drift when cutting with my bandsaw?" Tags="|band-saw|power-tools|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="265" CreationDate="2015-03-19T15:52:15.680" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best thing that I've found is to have a sharp blade with 3 teeth per inch. This is Michael Fortune's recommendation (a Fine Woodworking Contributor). I used to crank up the tension in my bandsaw blade to the point of it almost snapping. I finally listened to shoptalk live (FWW's podcast) and they said a 3 TPI blade will solve 90% of drift problems. It worked like a charm!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, before buying any expensive tensioners, I'd invest in a cheap 3 TPI blade and see if that works. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to that, I'd check out a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/tool-guide/video/how-to-set-up-a-bandsaw.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; by Michael Fortune about tuning up a bandsaw to make very accurate cuts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastEditorUserId="38" LastEditDate="2015-03-22T15:35:36.817" LastActivityDate="2015-03-22T15:35:36.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="267" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="269" CreationDate="2015-03-19T15:52:28.747" Score="8" ViewCount="2847" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love the traditional look of quarter sawn oak and the patina finish achieved by gassing the wood with ammonia. Are there other woods that react well by gassing with ammonia? If there are could you say what the effect is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="110" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T16:24:12.550" Title="Which woods work well with ammonia?" Tags="|finish|stain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="267" CreationDate="2015-03-19T16:03:51.777" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ammonia_fuming&quot;&gt;Ammonia fuming&lt;/a&gt; works by reacting with &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tannin&quot;&gt;tannins&lt;/a&gt; in the wood. Therefore, high tannin content species will produce the most dramatic results. Surprisingly enough, there are actually full-blown research &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ncsu.edu/bioresources/BioRes_07/BioRes_07_3_3767_Miklecic_SJ_Wood_Color_Change_NH3_Fuming_2762.pdf&quot;&gt;papers&lt;/a&gt; (PDF) on the subject.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To identify which woods have high tannin content, hardwoods generally have a higher tannin content than softwoods. You can also look for woods with a natural yellow, red, or brown tint to them, as these colors are a result of tannins in the wood. Some examples of wood species with high tannin content are oak (obviously), walnut, and mahogany.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastEditorUserId="38" LastEditDate="2015-03-19T16:24:12.550" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T16:24:12.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="265" CreationDate="2015-03-19T16:06:50.647" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lighten the feed pressure aka don't push so hard on the wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drift is cause because the blade buckles under the load. You can see that by stretching a ribbon between 2 points and applying a pressure to one of the edges, it will turn sideway easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A sharp blade and high blade speed will help a lot with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T16:06:50.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="271" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-19T16:24:19.013" Score="8" ViewCount="123" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been working on creating a wooden hockey stick. The blade of the hockey stick needs a slight curve and bend to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a small steam box set up and have created a vice with different-length teeth in it. After steaming the wood, I place it in the vice, close the teeth, and let it sit for a day or two. The curve created  by the teeth in the vice is much more exaggerated than I need, and when I remove it from the vice, the blade springs back a bit.  However, over time, the blade continues to straighten. After a week or so, it's almost to it's original straightness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most steam-bending applications that I've seen have both ends of the bent wood fixed so even though the wood wants to spring back, it can't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to steam-bend a piece of wood to have it remain bent without fixing both ends of the piece? Will all wood eventually straighten over time if left alone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T16:31:26.503" Title="Can I steam-bend a piece of wood with a free-floating end?" Tags="|steam-bending|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="271" CreationDate="2015-03-19T16:31:26.503" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way to combat this is to glue multiple layers that have been steamed over a form. Essentially, you'll be making a custom piece of curved plywood. The internal stresses will keep the workpiece from deforming back to its original shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tage Frid has an excellent book on &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0918804116&quot;&gt;shaping, veneering, and finishing&lt;/a&gt; that covers this topic in depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I have no association with Tage Frid and his literature, other than owning several of his books.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T16:31:26.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="265" CreationDate="2015-03-19T17:17:14.500" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;A sharp 3 or 4 TPI blade is the best first thing to try. A slower feed rate can also help, but if your blade rubs against the wood fast enough and long enough to produce significant friction, too slow a feed rate can cause burning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've bought a bunch of high TPI blades after discovering that a higher tooth count often produces a cleaner cut, you may be wondering why a low TPI blades even exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Why&lt;/em&gt; is it that a slower feed rate and low TPI blade can eliminate blade drift? The simple explanation in many instances of blade drift, burning, and binding with any type of saw is that the blade has &lt;em&gt;nowhere to go&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may have noticed that a blade with a high tooth count consequentially also has smaller, shallower gullets; and a blade with a low tooth count can have very large, deep gullets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UXNet.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bandsaw blades with different tooth counts&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gullets are more critical to a blade's function than most people realize.  Once you cut the wood, you need to get it out of the way so you can take your next slice.  If the blade's teeth slice off material faster than the gullets can carry the material away, that material compresses to the point that it can't compress any more, then it starts pushing back on the blade.  At this point, the blade follows the path of least resistance, which often means drifting to one side or the other, where the material is less compacted and cannot provide as much directly opposing force against the blade's forward motion. As you cut thicker material, you need deeper gullets to carry away the waste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mattias Wandel has an excellent visual explanation and accompanying video titled, &lt;a href=&quot;http://woodgears.ca/bandsaw/resaw.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Physics of Bandsaw Resawing&lt;/a&gt;, but the same principles apply to &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still have problems with blade drift after trying a sharp 3-4 TPI blade, there is a great &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; by Alex Snodgrass demonstrating how to properly set up your bandsaw and guides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-03-19T17:23:05.130" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T17:23:05.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="265" CreationDate="2015-03-19T17:49:53.000" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tuning up a bandsaw is definitely equal parts art and science. There are a variety of bandsaws out there and before doing any demanding bandsaw work (i.e. re-sawing) I usually go over the whole saw to make sure that the blade, guides and wheels are properly set up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However when I am trying to keep a dead straight line, the correct fence is indispensable. Most factory fences are of the kind that resemble a table saw fence. They are anywhere from 4 to 6 inches high and are as long as the bandsaw table. Rarely is this the correct bandsaw fence to use for resawing or blanking out table legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Enter the Re-saw Fence&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pi3lk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually resort to this type of fence for keeping straight lines. The advantage of the re-saw fence is its single point of contact. Most bandsaws have a sweet spot feed angle where the blade will tend to cut best. Rarely is this perpendicular to the table of the saw. Imagine looking top down on the table, sometimes the saw will tend to want to be fed at a slight angle. A fence that cannot accommodate this will put the blade under tension and will cause the blade to bow or drift, even when wood is secured to the fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The re-saw fence is much better at allowing you to make adjustments in feed angle and will overall yield superior results when trying to hold a straight line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is good to have a couple of these of various heights. If you are re-sawing 6&quot; 8&quot;, or even 12&quot; boards, the taller the re-saw fence the better. Focus holding the board flat against the re-saw fence with your free hand and feed the board using a push stick like this guy in the photo ;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing beats a well tuned bandsaw (seriously), but this particular jig will take your saw to new levels when holding a good line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T17:49:53.000" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="50" CreationDate="2015-03-19T19:38:15.630" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used Tung oil with good results. It is mildly protective. Keeps moisture out for the most part. If the wood is inherently soft, it doesn't do much to prevent marring though. It darkens the wood the tiniest bit, but doesn't make it look like it's got a finish on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the one I used, low gloss finish:&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldpaintsupply.com/minwax-30110-32oz-low-gloss-formby-tung-oil/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tung oil&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a table I used it on. Reclaimed redwood, planed down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ToaMa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="145" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T19:38:15.630" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="125" CreationDate="2015-03-19T23:45:35.753" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The meaning of &quot;white wood&quot; or &quot;whitewood&quot; may vary by region.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the UK, for example, it usually means timber primarily intended for &quot;first-fix&quot; use where it will not be visible when the work is completed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The species probably depends on what is available in the region but can include Spruce, Douglas Fir, Pine and so on. Spruce seems to be most common in the UK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="158" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T23:45:35.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="277" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-20T00:26:11.610" Score="7" ViewCount="1236" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got an old belt-driven  bench-size (jobsite?) jointer -- 6&quot; bed, infeed/outfeed tables each about 11&quot; long -- that I've been storing for a friend. Never got around to  getting it mounted with the motor and a belt installed and blades sharpened/adjusted... I'm presuming that, outside of the belt and size issues, tuning it up would be just like tuning a full-size unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big plus, of course, is that I already have it on hand, and jointers aren't cheap. The minus is that it'll be a bit of a pain to make useful, and those short tables presumably limit the beast's accuracy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So: Does anyone have enough experience with these small models to opine on whether it's worth the effort, or if I should continue to try to get by with planer/tablesaw jointing tricks until I'm ready to budget for another Serious Tool, and leave this as a museum piece? And if I do try to put it in use, are there any tricks to getting the most out of it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8iocx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Craftsman bench jointer&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZJ2oI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;another angle n the bench jointer&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2015-03-20T01:06:01.930" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T03:01:46.833" Title="Any tips on reconditioning/using an old benchtop jointer?" Tags="|jointer|restoration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27" CreationDate="2015-03-20T10:02:43.497" Score="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;One obvious solution is not letting the saw do anything that you don't want it to do by using a guide. In the easiest case, the fingers of your left hand are the guide, much like a professional chef would &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kochschule.de/out/fck_pictures/Kochwissen/Arbeitsmittel/Messer/3_%20Schneidetechniken/3_2_1_richtig-schneiden.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;handle&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kochschule.de/out/fck_pictures/Kochwissen/Arbeitsmittel/Messer/3_%20Schneidetechniken/3_2_2_richtig-schneiden.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a knife&lt;/a&gt;, except one normally uses the thumb's nail for that with a saw.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Alternatively, you can simply fasten a straight piece of wood with a screw clamp. Any old block of building wood with an straight, orthogonal cut at the end will do.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Preferrably, your guide should have a small bevel (really small) on the bottom edge to account for the fact that most saws have set teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can of course also buy guides which will hold your saw in place with rare earth magnets, too (optionally even with a particular angle). Those are much easier to handle and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.veritastools.com/Products/Page.aspx?p=171&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;more fancy&lt;/a&gt;, but also &lt;em&gt;a bit more expensive&lt;/em&gt; than a block of building wood. I use these for cutting minute dovetails sometimes. They do give a better surface than sawing free-handed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then of course, using the correct saw makes a huge difference as well. There exist saws for rip cuts (along the grain) and for cross cuts (orthogonal to the grain), and &quot;universal&quot; saws which work equally &lt;strike&gt;bad&lt;/strike&gt; well for either direction.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Also, there exist &quot;western&quot; and &quot;eastern&quot; (japanese) saws, the former cutting on push and requiring condiderably more force, the latter cutting on &quot;pull&quot; and usually being &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; slimmer (0.2-0.6mm) and having much smaller teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which saw is the right one for you is a matter of taste, but I very much prefer japanese saws (dozuki whenever possible, kataba if you need to go deeper than the back will allow, ryoba for the more coarse stuff. Ryoba is typically available with rip on one side and cross on the other, which is very nice).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pulling with two fingers is a lot more comfortable (and I'm inclined to believe much more precise) than working with force. But that's a bit of a matter of taste, too, you'll have to try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a photo of a guide that costs about 4€ in material (of which 1€ is for the neodym magnets in the little holes) and 5 minutes to manufacture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WdqbK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WdqbK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EKo1L.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EKo1L.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks to the magnets, the saw will cling to the guide nicely. You get 100% straight, perpendicular cuts every time. Similar guides are available commercially from Veritas (for about 10-12 times the price).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="135" LastEditorUserId="135" LastEditDate="2015-10-09T18:19:59.503" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T18:19:59.503" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="277" CreationDate="2015-03-20T12:26:11.137" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can only speak generally about restoring equipment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When in doubt, so long as nothing structurally wrong with the machine (Check for alignment, cracks, bends, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's typically a matter of replacements/servicing bearings, belts and have the blades replaced/sharpened and then attack any rust/corrosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it's belt driven, replacement of a motor could be a relatively easy mail order operation. There are even people that (if needed) hand rewind the arbors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, you just must do the calculus to determine how much sweat equity you're going to swap for cash, and if your Cash + Intrinsic Value &gt;= Cost of a new machine, go for a new machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck, and may your blades stay ever sharp&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T12:26:11.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="280" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-20T13:04:48.230" Score="10" ViewCount="15643" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some rough sawn timbers in my house that were painted over by the previous owner of the house&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.  I believe the timbers are a softer wood like fir as they are more decorative than structural.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The three 4&quot; x 8&quot; x 18' timbers appear to have been painted over with a roller and there's some bits of ceiling spackle on them too.  They at least tried to do a quality job and made sure to paint the little nooks or notches in the wood.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The single 6&quot; x 8&quot; x 5' timber has a gawd-awful faux stone spray paint applied to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both sets of timbers were stained fairly dark when they were originally put in place.  My goal at this point is to get rid of the paint.  I would be fine with the original dark stain that was in place, but it would be bonus points if I ended up with a lighter look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm 99% certain that the paint is lead-free, but I haven't tested yet to verify.  I will do so prior to commencing work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried using some citrus based paint remover.  It's worked okay, but has left an orange tint on the test areas.  I'm hesitant to use a chemical based paint remover because of the fumes and the timbers are located inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also considered grinding via wire brush; sanding with a belt or orbital sander; and planing it with a hand plane.  All of these seem like time intensive operations and I'm a little worried about the mess from grinding or sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What's the most effective way to remove the paint from these timbers?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Or is it a lost cause and I should cover over them instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Yes, I'm consoled by the fact that there's likely a special place in Hades for people like that. &amp;lt; /jk&gt; &lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2" LastEditorDisplayName="user2" LastEditDate="2015-03-20T14:53:57.403" LastActivityDate="2021-03-22T07:21:05.797" Title="Efficient paint removal from rough sawn wood" Tags="|technique|restoration|surface-preparation|paint|" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="280" CreationDate="2015-03-20T13:12:20.623" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think your best bet would be to use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.coldjet.com/en/information/what-is-dry-ice-blasting.php&quot;&gt;dry ice blaster&lt;/a&gt;. It is sort of like sand blasting, but the way the dry ice works is it will destroy the paint and evaporate into CO2 before it will harm the sub-structure (meaning the wood). The information on the page says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Dry ice blasting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;is a non-abrasive, nonflammable and nonconductive cleaning method&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;is environmentally responsible and contains no secondary contaminants such as solvents or grit media&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;is clean and approved for use in the food industry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;allows most items to be cleaned in place without time-consuming disassembly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;can be used without damaging active electrical or mechanical parts or creating fire hazards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;can be used to remove production residue, release agents, contaminants, paints, oils and biofilms&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;can be as gentle as dusting smoke damage from books or as aggressive as removing weld slag from tooling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;can be used for many general cleaning applications&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This solution should get you a relatively clean surface without destroying the way the board looks underneath. As you suggested, test for lead before you do this for safety's sake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T13:12:20.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="280" CreationDate="2015-03-20T14:47:22.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I have also considered grinding via wire brush; sanding with a belt or orbital sander; and planing it with a hand plane.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would certainly make an attempt with a hand-plane (after sharpening the iron). I've done this to clean up smaller pieces of painted/treated rough wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;All of these seem like time intensive operations&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is true but I find using a hand-plane very therapeutic. At least on softwood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative might be to rent or borrow a power planer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="158" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T14:47:22.630" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="237" CreationDate="2015-03-20T14:58:43.837" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Frank Howarth made a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUzcPgkJqFc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;great video&lt;/a&gt; about how he &quot;repaired&quot; a cracked wooden bowl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The rough turned maple bowl that I wanted to finish next had cracked. The crack was at an angle to vertical when the bowl was sitting normally. I cut out the section of the bowl with the crack on the band saw. Then I build a new segmented piece to take the place of the section. In this new section, I continue the idea of the chevron pattern, and add more detail. I give the chevron pattern branches by adding alternating pieces of birch and walnut wood on either side of the pattern. I also add a walnut ring at the top of the bowl so the segmented pattern has something to die into. Then I turn the whole bowl down to a finished piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He made a feature out of it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v8bTT.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd have to be ambitious to do what he did but it might serve as inspiration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="158" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T14:58:43.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="216" CreationDate="2015-03-20T15:20:42.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe people generally use an &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/Dcase/blog/27619&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;inlay&lt;/a&gt; on the sole to repair or close up the mouth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="158" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T15:20:42.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="285" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="286" CreationDate="2015-03-20T15:22:03.543" Score="14" ViewCount="4221" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm curious to know what is the simplest set-up to start bowl turning? Which tools should be high-quality and which can I skimp on? I'm not interested in being able to turn a large variety of bowls, I'm simply looking for a set-up where I can develop my bowl turning skills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastEditorUserId="34" LastEditDate="2015-03-20T18:31:35.397" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T20:53:49.250" Title="What minimum amount of equipment is required to start turning bowls?" Tags="|tools|turning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="285" CreationDate="2015-03-20T16:22:50.350" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like anything it depends, but the list is fairly small either way.  For the Lathe itself you can use almost any of them, though I would recommend at least a Midi-Lathe, the larger bench-top lathes.  I would recommend at least 8-10&quot; swing if you want more than finger bowls.  There are many different options and price points.  I started with a cheap Midi and moved on up to a large floor model. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you have your lathe, you need at least a face plate, I think all new lathes come with one, and small ones are as cheap as $25. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you need the (turning) chisels, while you could probably get away with 2-3 as a minimum, I would recommend buying a set, either a 5 or 8 piece set, they have the basics needed to get started and a cheap set (last I looked) was about $50.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could get away with a hand screw driver to attach the wood to the faceplate, but I would recommend getting an electric drill, it will save on wrists and elbows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forgot one! you will need something to sharpen the chisels.  Might be able to get away with a sharpening stone, I have one and a grinding wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next piece to consider is where you are getting your wood for the blanks.  if you buy round(ish) wood then you are mostly done.  However if you start with firewood, then you'll need a bandsaw to cut your blanks round(ish).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a lot more equipment you can buy to make each step easier and what not but that is all you really need.  After these I would invest in a chuck system which adds what you can do to turning quite a bit and makes life a lot easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lathe: $200 – $2000&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faceplate: $25 – $100 (usually one comes with a lathe, even a used one)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turning Chisels: $50 – a lot!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Electric drill: $30+&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bandsaw: $125 – $1800&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sharpening stone(s)/grinding wheel: $30- to as fancy as you want to get.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-03-20T16:54:03.347" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T16:54:03.347" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="287" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="297" CreationDate="2015-03-20T16:39:27.917" Score="12" ViewCount="11328" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in learning to turn and recently bought an old Delta/Rockwell lathe that came with some basic accessories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get the impression that a chuck and faceplate both serve the same purpose, namely that you can use either one to secure a workpiece by one end rather than by both ends. The thing I'm not quite clear on is when it makes more sense to use a chuck and when it makes more sense to use a faceplate. What are the advantages and disadvantages of each?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-03-24T18:38:08.177" LastActivityDate="2017-07-02T09:45:25.820" Title="When do you use a chuck vs. a faceplate on a lathe?" Tags="|tools|lathe|lathe-chuck|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="288" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="299" CreationDate="2015-03-20T17:18:55.473" Score="7" ViewCount="3164" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen matching sets of turned bowls that fit inside each other almost like &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Matryoshka_doll&quot;&gt;Russian dolls&lt;/a&gt;. I've also heard turners actually say the bowls were cut out from the same piece so they didn't waste a beautiful piece of wood to make just one bowl. How do you do this on a lathe, and is there a name for the technique? Do you need special tools or is there a way to do it with a normal set of lathe chisels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T19:14:47.097" Title="How do you make nesting bowls from a single piece of wood?" Tags="|technique|turning|bowl|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="289" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-20T17:33:44.103" Score="8" ViewCount="384" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen some scary videos and &quot;after&quot; photos where someone was turning something on a lathe and the workpiece just exploded. How do I avoid this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, in one &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hp4G0slGBKQ&amp;amp;t=297&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;exploding bowl video&lt;/a&gt; the turner comments that he made the bottom too thin which makes sense but he doesn't go into any detail about how thick it should have been. Is there a quick-and-dirty rule for estimating how thick the bottom and/or sides should be? He also mentions the wood was a little wet but I'm not sure if he's suggesting that was also part of the cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it common for things to explode on the lathe, and is it more due to operator error or just an understood hazard of turning wood?  If I can't do anything to completely prevent it, what rules of thumb can I follow to at least decrease the chances of my workpiece exploding on the lathe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, is there a technical term for this (similar to the term &quot;kickback&quot; in relation to other tools), or is it just called &lt;em&gt;exploding&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-03-20T20:30:25.997" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T20:30:25.997" Title="How do you prevent a turned workpiece from exploding while you're working on it on the lathe?" Tags="|safety|lathe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="290" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="291" CreationDate="2015-03-20T17:45:05.247" Score="17" ViewCount="12905" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know you can get sandpaper in super-high grits, like 2000 grit and higher. I guess there's a point of diminishing returns for sanding wood projects, but is it possible to use too &lt;em&gt;high&lt;/em&gt; a grit prior to applying the first coat of finish? If so, what problems can it cause, and do these problems apply to all types of finish and wood or just certain types or categories?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-03-20T18:26:02.653" LastActivityDate="2018-07-18T16:11:32.187" Title="Is there any such thing as sanding something *too* fine for finishing?" Tags="|finishing|sanding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="290" CreationDate="2015-03-20T18:18:04.200" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's a great question. Typically, the purpose of the &lt;em&gt;first&lt;/em&gt; round of sanding is to hide surface blemishes in the wood (e.g., machine marks, dents, scratches). The purpose of the subsequent rounds of sanding is to hide the scratch marks from the first round. Usually, you only need to go to about 180 before the scratch marks become invisible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you mention, there's diminishing returns, so there's no need to sand even higher. However, if you &lt;em&gt;love&lt;/em&gt; sanding, I only see one problem: if you're staining, the stain will not take as well for wood that has been sanded with much higher grits. See the image below (from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/rules_for_sanding_wood&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Popular Woodworking&lt;/a&gt;). The top half was sanded to 180 and the bottom half to 600. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZPA1z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Two grits of sanding and effect on stain. &quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, as pointed out by @GlenH7, sometimes &quot;finishing a finish&quot; &lt;em&gt;requires&lt;/em&gt; sanding to higher grits if you're looking for a highly reflective finish. But, this is for sanding the finish, not the wood itself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastEditorUserId="38" LastEditDate="2015-03-20T19:52:32.083" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T19:52:32.083" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="288" CreationDate="2015-03-20T18:32:25.460" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I seem to remember a tool available at Rockler and that like, that was called a 'hollowing system'. It included a tool rest with a post, and a series of curved bar type tools (image a parting tool that has a long, large arc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The point of this tool was that the curve of the tool and the setup of the post on the tool rest made a bit of a pivot. This allowed you to effectively cut and 'part out' multiple bowls from a single slug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sadly, I was not able to find this exact product online. It does exist, and with a curved hollowing tool, I'm sure you could achieve a similar function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, a word of warning: &lt;strong&gt;Making a curved 'slit' into a spinning lump of wood may provide ample opportunity for your tool to grab and bind in the space. Please be careful.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;I Found it!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; Check it out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/127676/Kelton-Standard-Mcnaughton-System.aspx?refcode=10INGOPB&amp;amp;gclid=CjwKEAjwiq-oBRC9gvHCsvDdn2cSJACV3DFRL0xtssHHHyj6ERwHjanPRUe8CJFuaagmyiNZRW4ZChoC9d3w_wcB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;HERE&lt;/a&gt; at Woodcraft*&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Not an endorsement of woodcraft, just the only place I identified it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastEditorUserId="31" LastEditDate="2015-03-20T18:55:45.610" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T18:55:45.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="290" CreationDate="2015-03-20T18:35:30.677" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For all practical purposes, I think the answer is &quot;no, nothing is too fine of a grit for finishing.&quot;  But it also depends upon what you expect the final finish to look like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we think about what we're doing with sanding, we can rationalize our way through this process.  The surface of wood is an uneven surface with repeating ridges representing the grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cHqJw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cHqJws.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;wood grain&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And when we sand, we're knocking down those ridges.  The finer the grit of sandpaper we use, the smaller the ridges become.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have to move to ever finer grits of sandpaper while we're sanding otherwise we're just changing around the ridge pattern on the surface of the material.  That becomes obvious when we look at sandpaper under a microscope.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tF84V.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tF84Vs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sandpaper under microscope&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;600 grit sandpaper under high magnification&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanding is just carving out smaller grooves in the wood, with the depth of the groove being defined by the grit of the sandpaper. Moving to really high grits (like the 2000 you mentioned) merely continues that pattern of decreasing the height between the various ridges on the wood.  The net effect is that the material feels more and more smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a possibility that using too high of a grit would impede the stain from being absorbed by the underlying grain.  Regardless of the stain and pigments potentially being impeded in their absorption, smaller ridges from finer sanding will reflect light differently causing the more finely sanded piece to appear different from the less finely sanded piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that when the wood absorbs the stain it will lift the grain, undoing the some of the work that you had put into the finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also worth noting that &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_polish&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;some finishes&lt;/a&gt; that end up looking like smooth glass require wet sanding with progressive layers of sandpaper all the way up into the 1500 or higher realm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finer grained woods are less likely to show as dramatic of a difference with higher levels of sanding.  This would be due to the woodgrain already being tighter and the separating ridges being smaller.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2" LastEditorDisplayName="user2" LastEditDate="2015-03-20T19:58:39.603" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T19:58:39.603" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="294" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="314" CreationDate="2015-03-20T18:37:31.527" Score="10" ViewCount="7819" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a number of Kreg workbenches that I have made with help of their Pocket-hole jig.  The workbench tops are made by layering MDF atop a 2x4 frame.  I am wondering whether multiple layers of MDF would be effective in holding a bench dog tightly, or would it begin to tear out due to the powdery qualities of MDF?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T19:45:56.810" Title="Can one install bench dog holes in soft surfaces like MDF or softwoods?" Tags="|workbench|bench-dogs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="288" CreationDate="2015-03-20T18:39:29.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, there are special tools. Basically it's a thin gouge on a curved shaft, plus guides so you're advancing it along the circumference of a circle. Bowl blanks are then undercut and separated working from the smallest outward, readjusting the guide between each division. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does assume all the nested blanks will start out with the same inner and outer curvature,  or that you get multiple curved gouges with different radii and appropriate guides for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's presumably possible to do something similar without that tool, but it'd be more work and (probably) more wood wasted between bowls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T18:39:29.523" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="289" CreationDate="2015-03-20T18:48:15.610" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The video (and details from the comments and video itself) make a great case study. Wet wood can be inherently unstable as it may have uneven mass distribution, integral stresses that are unbalanced and a myriad of other factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think about how when a piece of wood bows/warps/twists as it dries. That is the wood exhibiting and forming to its inherent stresses. Now, go exploring that stress while spinning it VERY fast, &lt;strong&gt;AND&lt;/strong&gt; causing some rather large centripetal forces &lt;strong&gt;AND&lt;/strong&gt; removing its material, further changing how the stress, mass and forces are distributed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This happens from time to time. I would say burls, greenwood, and similar pieces have a higher likelihood of this, however I would still not call it common. I have had less than 10 pieces 'FRAG'on me out of hundreds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When in doubt, or while learning err on the side of caution. Take your time, start slow (and speed up as necessary) and be cautious if anything feels wet, hot, unstable, or seem's 'tensed' up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck. May your blades stay sharp and your wood chips plentiful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T18:48:15.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="287" CreationDate="2015-03-20T19:07:54.497" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The faceplate you use screws to secure the piece you are going to turn.&#xA;some people will glue a waste piece to what they are turning so they don't have to put screw holes in their work piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A chuck needs something to grip.&#xA;So you either need to drill/turn one of two things.  A tenon for the chuck to clamp down on, or a recess to put the chuck in and expand it to hold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the faceplate holds very well with the screws, so if you are doing heavy work by rounding out the bowl a face plate is very nice.  A chuck is more likely to let the piece go if it is really rough or lopsided.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both cases you can use the tail stock to help hold it secure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-03-24T19:57:38.110" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T19:57:38.110" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="287" CreationDate="2015-03-20T19:10:04.810" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A faceplate will have much more 'bite' and holding stregth &lt;strong&gt;but&lt;/strong&gt; requires screws either into the piece or parting the final piece from a slug of material attached to the faceplate. This is usually scrap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without knowing about your specific chuck I can generically say these things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A chuck can hold onto a piece (or a tool in your tail stock for hollowing/boring etc) depending on it's arrangement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A chuck with face jaws can be used to hold onto a positive portion (knob) or a negative space (hole) in your piece and turn it. This can have the advantage of less wasted material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T19:10:04.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="288" CreationDate="2015-03-20T19:14:47.097" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are bowl coring systems like this &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZQWQB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought this one and it has 4 different knife sets available for different sized bowls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are pretty expensive and each knife set is bought separately. I like it but you need some practice and they really aren't for the beginner, you need to have practice attaching the blanks to the lathe securely because there is a lot of force being used and I've had a blank jump right off the lathe. There are branches and other misc things inside a large hunk of wood that can cause the bowl to catch and that can be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T19:14:47.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="289" CreationDate="2015-03-20T19:20:51.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As BrownRedHawk says, it's not very common.  The reason he didn't say how thick it should have been is because 'it depends' mostly on the size of the bowl to begin with.  Wet/green wood is also heavier and weaker than dried wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A clean piece of wood will generally not 'explode'. If there are cracks or branches or other 'issues' with the wood, it is much more likely.  I had one split in half because there was natural crack that went a lot deeper than I thought and when I caught my chisel half of it just flew off.  but I've had 2 pieces break on me like that and I'm in the low 100's for items turned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does enforce the idea to be careful though, turning looks safe, but only if you do it correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T19:20:51.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="301" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="303" CreationDate="2015-03-20T21:32:01.527" Score="12" ViewCount="1081" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am about to purchase a Powermatic &quot;contractor style&quot; table saw for a very good price from a friend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The saw has not been used in years. It will also have to be disassembled to fit into my car, then re-assembled in my shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a comprehensive list of things to do/adjust/clean/replace/add in order to make it perform well and be safe to use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="165" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-04-17T16:17:04.933" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T16:17:04.933" Title="How can I bring an old, disused table saw back into active and safe use?" Tags="|safety|table-saw|tool-maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="302" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-20T21:54:06.800" Score="5" ViewCount="336" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was in the shop last evening working on a shelving unit out of construction lumber (2x4s.)  When I was securing the second stile to the panel I noticed that although I had measured where the rails SHOULD attach to make the shelves be the same height, that the actual board was warped away from that point by at least half an inch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I popped a square on the corner and noticed that when forcing the board into the position that my measurement said the board should be attached, that the corner was very much out of square.  If I instead fastened the board where it was resting naturally, it was almost perfectly square after tightening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This led me to wonder, is it more important when building a shelving unit that my shelves be at the same height, or is it more important that the interface of the rails to the stiles is square?  The plan is to screw in a sheet of MDF on each rail level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've added a sketchup I just cooked up to illustrate what I was building, please excuse the bad sketchup skills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lV1dr.png&quot; alt=&quot;Picture of shelf in question&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2015-03-22T14:19:27.060" Title="When building a shelving unit, how does having the rails and stiles be out of square affect the alignment of the shelf?" Tags="|joinery|measurement|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="301" CreationDate="2015-03-20T22:12:47.627" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the table saw has been properly stored, you may not have to do much before you can start using it. Find out if there's a reason why it hasn't been used other than a loss of interest or lack of time--for example, maybe it needed the bearings replaced and your friend just never got around to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Has it been subjected to the elements?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it has been subjected to the elements, you may have to deal with rust removal and the motor could be damaged, in addition to any other issues it might have had otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was stored in a non-climate-controlled garage, the table could still have surface rust but should clean up fine. There are many ways to remove surface rust, from WD-40 and steel wool, to sanding, to rust-removal chemicals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Check the owner's manual&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The owner's manual should be your first resource. Read through it so you know how to properly disassemble and reassemble the saw. The assembly instructions will also include some information on how to calibrate the fence, at the very least. If your friend does not have the owner's manual, you may be able to download it from the saw manufacturer's website. Failing that, check &lt;a href=&quot;http://vintagemachinery.org&quot;&gt;vintagemachinery.org&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://owwm.org&quot;&gt;owwm.org&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Before you take it home&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the saw is currently fully-assembled and it worked fine the last time your friend used it, test it before you disassemble it for transport.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check that the saw includes a riving knife/splitter, blade guard, fence, other accessories (like a miter gauge), and any wrenches necessary for making adjustments or swapping the blade. Familiarize yourself with how to use them correctly. This may include reviewing the manual.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;After reassembly&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Align the blade parallel to the miter slots&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Align the fence parallel to blade and miter slots&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check that the belt from the motor to the arbor is in good condition and not rubbing on anything&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;A riving knife is safer than a splitter&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the saw is old enough to have a splitter instead of a riving knife, it will have a greater chance of producing kickback. Although a splitter and riving knife both prevent the blade from being pinched, a splitter is always positioned at the same height, while a riving knife raises and lowers with the blade. This allows the riving knife to maintain a constant distance from the back of the blade. This means that when the blade is lowered for a shallow cut, there is a huge gap between the back of the blade and the splitter, as illustrated in a &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/topics/86698&quot;&gt;kickback incident analyzed on LumberJocks&lt;/a&gt;. A splitter only performs as well as a riving knife when the blade is raised to full height--which itself is considered unsafe unless you need the full height of the blade to make a cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aftermarket riving knives are available for some saws, and you should consider getting one if your saw comes with a splitter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-03-22T06:00:24.573" LastActivityDate="2015-03-22T06:00:24.573" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="304" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="310" CreationDate="2015-03-20T23:38:15.337" Score="14" ViewCount="6869" Body="&lt;p&gt;40 years ago when I was first learning to work with wood, there were crosscut and rip saws, each used for their own purpose.  As I recall you could use a crosscut saw for either job. A rip saw could only be used for ripping wood.  I have just recently got back into working with wood, and I don't think I have seen a saw proclaiming it is one type or the other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this question is primarily focused on hand saws, information about power saws would be welcome also.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are rip saws still sold and used? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-03-24T18:32:28.153" LastActivityDate="2017-02-23T16:48:54.757" Title="Do rip saws still have a place in the wood shop?" Tags="|tools|hand-saw|hand-tools|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="304" CreationDate="2015-03-20T23:42:28.773" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are definitely still rip saw vs. crosscut saw blades for circular saws.  Attention should be paid to purchase the right blade for the right task, since the tooth design in the blade dictates whether the saw will produce a nicely finished edge when the cut is complete.  They do make saws that are designed to do either ripping or crosscutting, but some will argue that those general purpose sawblades do neither cut effectively.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to keep in mind, however, is that toothcount can help compensate for an improper blade type with regards to keeping the edge clean, but the wood piece will still feed more hesitantly if the blade is designed for a rip cut and you're doing a large crosscut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T23:42:28.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="306" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="309" CreationDate="2015-03-20T23:47:49.393" Score="9" ViewCount="3556" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few times I have purchased hole saw kits, there is one center piece and bunch of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hole_saw#Adjustable&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;different sized saws&lt;/a&gt; every time I have tried to use one them by the second or third hole they are coming apart... It gets very frustrating.  Now I just buy one that is together and the size I need.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like having one center bit and several interchangeable hole sizes would be a great idea.  But I never get it to work in practice. Is there a secret to how to make them stay together, when you swap out pieces? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-03-24T18:34:55.513" LastActivityDate="2020-01-27T01:04:49.890" Title="How to keep a hole saw together?" Tags="|tools|drilling|hole-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="307" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="308" CreationDate="2015-03-20T23:53:14.513" Score="48" ViewCount="99849" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/305/20&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; talks about rip and crosscuts and that one saw is better for ripping than one that is more suited for crosscutting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the difference between the 2 cuts and why would a saw-blade be more suited for one or the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2017-12-08T14:36:51.897" Title="What is the difference between a rip-cut and a cross-cut?" Tags="|saw-blade|rip-cut|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="307" CreationDate="2015-03-21T00:10:27.877" Score="47" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the rip cut, you cut along the grain; while with the cross cut, you cut across the grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cutting along the grain is a very easy cut; even before you had mechanical saw, you had saws with few but large teeth so you cut as fast and as straight as possible.  Essentially, you &quot;rip&quot; the wood apart, like you can split it with an axe, except you'll get a straighter cut as you may still cut some of the wood fibers.  This cut has a tendency to bind the blade as the wood fiber relax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cutting across the grain is much harder for the saw (you need to cut a lot of fibers), and you typically use a saw with smaller teeth, but many more of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other reason why you have more or fewer teeth has to do with the amount of saw dust you need to evacuate after each cut.  As the rip is easier, you'll need more space between the teeth to carry it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u6g7R.png&quot; alt=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/how-to/blades-101/&quot;&gt;&#xA;Image comes from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/how-to/blades-101/&quot;&gt;http://www.rockler.com/how-to/blades-101/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="100" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-04-20T23:18:54.800" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T23:18:54.800" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="306" CreationDate="2015-03-21T07:16:02.180" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not seen the type of adjustable hole saw you describe, perhaps it's a regional thing (I'm on the west coast USA), but the type I'm familiar with have a spring loaded collar with &quot;drive pins&quot; that mate with holes in the bottom of the saw bit itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would buy &lt;strong&gt;mandrel&lt;/strong&gt; like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uKtLZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hole saw mandrel&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a hole bit of the appropriate size which threads onto the &lt;em&gt;collar screw&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NRXgg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hole saw bit&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the bit is threaded on, the collar is snapped forward and the drive pins engage two of the four holes in the bit's base and prevent it from moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="68" LastActivityDate="2015-03-21T07:16:02.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="304" CreationDate="2015-03-21T07:21:28.860" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hand saws may never get used in a shop that turns out cabinets exclusively, but in most shops they have a wide variety of uses. Yes, there are specific rip and crosscut saws, but the woodworkers I know have mostly adopted Japanese style hand saws. A &lt;strong&gt;ryoba saw&lt;/strong&gt; is a great tool to have around. It has crosscut teeth on one side and ripping teeth on the other. And the small oval shaped haft or handle allows very precise control. Most Japanese saws have an incredibly thin kerf which makes them easier to use as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rsnek.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ryoba saw&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="68" LastActivityDate="2015-03-21T07:21:28.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="311" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="317" CreationDate="2015-03-21T10:31:53.467" Score="6" ViewCount="1382" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was at a saw shop the other day and someone asked for a chisel bit chain.  When I get a chain at the DIY store it comes in a box and the only choices are brand and size. The chain this customer got came off a roll, like a length of rope, the clerk took of a length went in the back and came back out with proper loop of chain for the saw.  What is a chisel bit chain? How does the roll of saw chain factor into it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2019-01-08T15:09:42.493" Title="What is the difference between a chisel bit and regular chain saw blade?" Tags="|chain-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="89" CreationDate="2015-03-21T12:38:46.320" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I'd try making a guide block by drilling a through-hole into a piece of thick stock at the drill press. Use the same bit you plan to drill into your desk with. Next, locate the block on the desk where you want the hole (registration marks might help with this) and clamp or double-stick tape it in place. &#xA;Use the hole in the block as a guide sleeve for your bit as you drill into the desk.&#xA;Should work fine for any bit you can chuck into your drill press.&#xA;The thickness of the block will limit your depth of cut, but once the hole is well started you should be able to remove the block and use the hole itself as a guide if you need to drill further. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="171" LastEditorUserId="171" LastEditDate="2015-03-21T12:46:57.637" LastActivityDate="2015-03-21T12:46:57.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="294" CreationDate="2015-03-21T13:12:03.613" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bench top is made of 2 half inch pieces of MDF that I laminated together with wood glue and screws. I drilled about 8 holes for my brass bench dogs. I have used those bench dogs for over a year now, when using my hand planes and router, etc. I have never noticed any kind of deformation or loosening of the hold due to the qualities of the MDF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, MDF is cheap, and MDF bench tops are such a great idea in the first place because they can be easily replaced. I wouldn't worry about it if I were you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="172" LastActivityDate="2015-03-21T13:12:03.613" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="304" CreationDate="2015-03-21T13:52:46.813" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's also worth mentioning that old rip saws are fairly easy to find on eBay and, I'd wager, at garage and estate sales just about anywhere. Finding one in decent shape to use may be more of a challenge, but there is no shortage of online tutorials for fixing up old tools. Here are some interesting links. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;WK Fine Tools internet magazine has a fairly thorough selection of articles on restoring and repairing old hand saws, along with tons of information about other tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wkfinetools.com/tRestore/saw/sawsRestore-index.asp&quot;&gt;http://www.wkfinetools.com/tRestore/saw/sawsRestore-index.asp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Matt Cianci is a craftsman in Rhode Island who makes, sharpens and restores saws. He also teaches, but it's unclear how far he strays from the northeast to do this. You can send him an old saw for tune-up or just browse the site for useful info. Some pretty cool links.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thesawwright.com/index.html&quot;&gt;http://www.thesawwright.com/index.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="171" LastActivityDate="2015-03-21T13:52:46.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="302" CreationDate="2015-03-21T17:10:07.500" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Construction grade lumber can be pretty bad.  I would pay particular attention to the milling process and to the calibration of your tools (i.e. fences): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The standard milling process&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Jointer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Face joint one face &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Edge joint one edge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You now have a clean 90 degree angle on the board.  Check it in multiple places down the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Planer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place one of the jointed edges on the planer's reference face (bottom)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Progressively plane to desired thickness making sure jointed edge is in the proper orientation on the planer's reference face.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You now should have a clean 90 degree edge and two parallel faces.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check for twist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Table Saw&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place one of the parallel faces on the table and place the known good 90 degree edge against the fence&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rip the last edge to width&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be both square and parallel on all four edges.  Crosscut to length and should be square on all six faces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of measurement:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure you are accounting for the width of the blade&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure which side of the blade is terminating the cut on your marks - be consistent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may consider not measuring at all by using a spacer (such as an old piece of scrap) that is cut to the desired dimension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastActivityDate="2015-03-21T17:10:07.500" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="311" CreationDate="2015-03-21T17:30:32.470" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The comparison of chisel bit chain and regular chain should be Chisel-Bit vs. Scratcher-Bit. Other synonyms might exist. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Chisel-Bit&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Near all modern saw chains are a type of chisel bit. The general style would follow some of the examples from the picture below from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.madsens1.com/bnc_teeth_types.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;madsens1.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X3kj7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chisel Types&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bits pictured can also go by names as semi-chisel (rounded) and full-chisel(square). From left to right the bits above are ranked for ease to maintain and efficiency. The square tooth square grind being the most efficient and arguably the harder of the three to keep sharpened. Number of teeth and gaps in between also play a major roll in an individual chains upkeep and effectiveness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Scratcher-Bit&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first chain saw chains had teeth similar to a common wood saw and are referred to as &lt;em&gt;scratcher&lt;/em&gt; teeth. Since they do not have a depth guide like chisel-teeth it made the chain cut slower and inefficient. See picture from Wikipedia&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saw_chain&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rxh2Ks.png&quot; alt=&quot;Scratcher Teeth&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without going into too much more details some good resources that cover this topic would be&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saw_chain&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/gds/Your-Guide-to-Buying-a-Chain-for-Your-Chainsaw-/10000000177632839/g.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ebay of all places&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X3kj7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Madsens1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2019-01-08T15:09:42.493" LastActivityDate="2019-01-08T15:09:42.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="185" CreationDate="2015-03-21T17:38:20.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would definitely use glue.  I would also use a 23 gauge pin only in event that the joint was misaligned and needed to be kept in place until the glue dries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-02-02T21:01:52.713" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T21:01:52.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="319" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="382" CreationDate="2015-03-21T18:46:56.703" Score="14" ViewCount="50166" Body="&lt;p&gt;So you have a board removed from a pallet that, once removed, shows significant warping. Or perhaps you bought some lumber and you didn't notice an imperfection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is visible along the width of the board (curved) and the length of the board (bowed). Is it possible to try and straighten that board? This wood is already sub par to begin with since it was on a pallet in the first place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The curve imperfection is usually lost when the board is assembled again to a project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps this board is a lost cause and not worth the effort. Is it possible to try and fix a board with only one of those characteristics? Particularly the bowing as that is the harder one to hide depending on the span between screws and nature of the project. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-04-14T20:13:09.230" LastActivityDate="2023-02-16T21:58:01.333" Title="How to straighten a warped board" Tags="|lumber|pallet|warp|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="320" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="325" CreationDate="2015-03-21T18:53:49.360" Score="12" ViewCount="33120" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a mitre saw second hand and I am not sure how long it was in service for. I don't want to just buy a 12 inch blade as they can be expensive. Ultimately, I will have to purchase one at some point. The blade in question looks like it has over-sized tips that suggest I could go at them with a file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any reasons I should not do this? Such as efficiency or more importantly safety concerns?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I can do this, is there any technique for going around the blade?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/83/how-do-i-know-its-time-to-replace-my-circular-saw-blade&quot;&gt;How do I know it&amp;#39;s time to replace my circular saw blade?&lt;/a&gt; will tell me if my blade is truly dull. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T16:18:23.620" Title="How to sharpen a circular saw or mitre saw blade" Tags="|safety|sharpening|circular-saw|miter-saw|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="319" CreationDate="2015-03-21T19:52:05.013" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you do not need the exact thickness of the board you could just run it thorough a planer and or jointer to flatten it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if the board thickness is exactly what you need then I have seen a jig, it was a few years ago, that used steam and weights to straighten boards out, but this seems like a bit of overkill to me to create such a large jig &lt;em&gt;(particularly for garbage pallett wood)&lt;/em&gt;.  I know of no other simple tool that would straighten the board for you.  Why not just toss it in the scrap bin for other smaller uses / projects and move on to another board you pull without so many imperfections instead?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If someone does know of another way I would love to hear about it too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="177" LastEditorUserId="177" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T17:19:18.083" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T17:19:18.083" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="50" CreationDate="2015-03-21T20:36:33.923" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have use &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00FE6IA5W&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Clark's Cutting Board Finish&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which leaves the wood looking more unfinished that anything else I've ever used.  Even so, it does darken the wood slightly (all finishes do).  Like any wax, it is very easy to add more after the surface has been in use for awhile.  It has a nice citrus smell which dissipates after 12 hours or so.  I used this on some toys I made because it is guaranteed food safe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also used Watco Danish Oil in the natural color and it leaves a very similar finish.  Again, it darkens the wood a bit - much more so when it's fresh but when it cures, it is close to the original color of the wood.  And, like wax, it is not very tough but if scratches happen, you can wipe on another coat very easily which will cure in 12 hours or so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-03-21T20:36:33.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="265" CreationDate="2015-03-21T20:56:02.730" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is what I made for re-sawing.  It begins with a piece of plywood that I attached to my stock table.  This is a miter gauge that I repurposed from another old bandsaw.  Every time I change the blade, I resaw a scrap piece by hand (for a few inches - not all the way) to determine what the &quot;drift angle&quot; is.  I then bring up this miter gauge and match it to the wood that I'm still holding and thus match that angle. I can then just hold any pieces up to the fence and use the bandsaw as I might use a table saw.  This works better for me in that I can keep the cut pretty flat and require less planing to get the saw marks out.  I usually plane these marks out by hand so I like to get the cut as flat as I can to avoid having to plane too much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fence itself could stand to be a bit taller but when I made this, I was resawing some pretty short stuff (I don't have a table saw).  I can easily replace this one with a taller one if I need to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2f9By.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-03-21T20:56:02.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="320" CreationDate="2015-03-21T21:14:56.397" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Doresoom, attacking it with a chisel&lt;sup&gt;**&lt;/sup&gt; will only ruin both tools. You could probably hand sharpen the blade with a collection of sharpening stones. However, if you're not proficient at sharpening something simple like a knife or chisel, I'd say your best bet&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt; would be to check the &lt;a href=&quot;http://google.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;modern local yellow pages&lt;/a&gt; for a knife/saw sharpener in your area and get a quote there. Then compare that to the price of a new blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt;Learning to sharpen your own tools is easily doable, and is a very worthwhile skill to learn. I just don't think that learning on a circular saw blade would make for a very good first experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;**&lt;/sup&gt;As noted in the comments, the original question mentioned using a &lt;em&gt;chisel&lt;/em&gt; to sharpen the blade. It has since been updated to &lt;em&gt;file&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2015-07-16T14:44:55.477" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T14:44:55.477" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="320" CreationDate="2015-03-21T21:48:55.443" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 12&quot; miter saw blade of the ilk normally found on a miter saw or cut-off saw looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IA5tu.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The teeth on the saw blade are carbide material that is very hard. You will not want to take a file to those teeth as they will very quickly kill your file. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This type of saw blade has gained huge popularity in recent years because the hardness of the carbide material helps the saw to keep an edge for a long time. Another attribute of this type of saw blade is the extremely smooth cut that can be achieved with them. This smooth cut is possible because of the precision grinding of the carbide tips at the time of manufacture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not recommend hand sharpening this type of blade because of the distinct possibility that hand sharpening will result in tooth shapes that are not perfectly uniform all the way around the blade. Variation of tooth shape, length, edge angles, and width will have a direct effect on how smooth and nice of cut that can be produced by the blade. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So find a seasoned professional saw resharpener that has the necessary power grinder equipment that can result in an almost factory equivalent sharpening job on a carbide tipped saw blade. Most blades of this type can be resharpened at least once or twice provided there are no teeth that are chipped, broken or missing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2015-03-21T21:48:55.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="258" CreationDate="2015-03-21T22:35:58.257" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To the fine answers already posted, I would just add this: The jointer can give a board a perfectly straight edge, which is an important first step in accurately cutting the board to width and length. The straight, jointed edge runs along the tablesaw's rip fence when you are cutting the board to width, yielding an opposite edge that is also straight, and parallel to the first. When crosscutting, the jointed edge gets held against the miter gauge or crosscut sled to help ensure that the freshly cut end is square - at 90 degrees to the board's long edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="171" LastEditorUserId="171" LastEditDate="2015-03-21T22:41:39.490" LastActivityDate="2015-03-21T22:41:39.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="320" CreationDate="2015-03-21T22:41:22.013" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Steel tipped blades can be sharpened by a touch with a dremel tool on the top of the teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key is to grind down the top until the front edge is sharp again. It doesn't take much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can only to this so many times until the tips dip down too much and he gullets are too small to take away the sawdust. Then is the time for a new blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Low tooth-count saw-blades also have a backwards-facing tooth that is meant to avoid a too deep bite, you may need to grind down those as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2015-03-21T22:41:22.013" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="307" CreationDate="2015-03-21T23:31:38.110" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To precisely answer the question: A rip cut is a cut along the longest dimension of the board or sheet. A crosscut is a cut along the shorter dimension of the board or sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of a rip cut would be cutting a 4 foot by 8 foot sheet of plywood into a 3 foot by 8 foot sheet. In that case you would be &lt;em&gt;ripping&lt;/em&gt; 1 foot off the sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of a crosscut would be cutting a 1 inch by 6 inch by 6 foot long board down to 4 feet in length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The differences in blades used for these types of cuts are described by Pascal's answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="68" LastActivityDate="2015-03-21T23:31:38.110" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="280" CreationDate="2015-03-22T01:40:14.473" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;When we stripped the paint in my house growing up we used a heat gun and paint scrapers. It was tedious but fairly effective. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastActivityDate="2015-03-22T01:40:14.473" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="141" CreationDate="2015-03-22T12:08:53.770" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's impossible to say, really. You may be allergic to a wood that another person isn't. For most woods they're little more than mild irritants. Walnut doesn't bother me for example, but Wenge makes me break out in a horrible rash akin to poison ivy that lasts for weeks. At a minimum you should wear a dust mask for ANY wood . I got so bad with wenge that I wear a full face mask respirator from 3m and a tyvek hooded suit with neoprene gloves. You can't really know until you're exposed, and adjust your protective equipment accordingly if you have a reaction. Be aware that some woods may not cause a reaction on the first exposure but will get progressively worse the more you work with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="180" LastEditDate="2015-03-22T12:50:24.087" LastActivityDate="2015-03-22T12:50:24.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="59" CreationDate="2015-03-22T13:25:54.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I would try cutting a groove into the inside edge of each frame member, maybe 3/8 deep, so that the edge of the Lexan is completely captured, front and back, on all four sides. You could do this at the router table; I'd do it in a couple of shallow passes. For the two pieces of your face frame that have exposed end grain, the grooves will need to be stopped, so the end of the groove isn't exposed.&#xA; In all I think this is the most secure way to hold that Lexan in place. And it gives you a natural place to run a bead of sealant around the perimeter to fight leaks. The only real drawback is that you can't easily replace the Lexan once the frame is glued up. I don't know if that's a consideration. Also, I would definitely apply your finish to the frame before installing the Lexan. Much simpler than masking the whole thing off, it seems to me.&#xA;Lastly, if you have any real concern about the rigidity of the Lexan, you might redesign your face frame to include a central, vertical divider from that same 1x4 stock, and use two smaller panes instead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="171" LastEditorUserId="171" LastEditDate="2015-03-22T14:17:59.507" LastActivityDate="2015-03-22T14:17:59.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="302" CreationDate="2015-03-22T14:19:27.060" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back to your original question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This led me to wonder, is it more important when building a shelving unit that my shelves be at the same height, or is it more important that the interface of the rails to the stiles is square? The plan is to screw in a sheet of MDF on each rail level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My answer: you need both. Let's say you have a board that is bowed upward, then downward (look at the image below, from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/skills/dealing-with-wood-defects1/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;woodmagazine&lt;/a&gt;). Suppose you make the ends of the board the same height as the drawer (i.e., there's more of a gap in the center). Well, now you have a problem aligning the drawer above because now it has less room for the above drawer in the center. Maybe you're lucky enough that it's only the top rail that is bowed. Well, now you're going to have difficulty placing the top. For example, if it's part of a desk, the surface of the desk will not lay flat because of the bow in the rails. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xpRri.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution is to &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/258/when-should-i-use-a-jointer-vs-a-planer/259#259&quot;&gt;joint&lt;/a&gt; the board before you install it. I do this all the time with construction lumber (e.g., when I'm building shop furniture). You can never trust it to be perfectly square/flat/straight edged (or, for that matter, any board from a lumber yard). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2015-03-22T14:19:27.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="280" CreationDate="2015-03-22T14:23:46.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Speaking of Hades....I've actually used a planer (not a hand plane, but a motorized one) when my blades were on their last leg. I didn't care if the plane ruined them because I was about to replace them anyway. Plane the wood, then replace the blades. Easy, easy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastEditorUserId="3" LastEditDate="2015-03-22T15:37:10.640" LastActivityDate="2015-03-22T15:37:10.640" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="185" CreationDate="2015-03-22T14:41:02.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I actually thought of this question yesterday when I was replacing trim. It seems the people who built my house nailed from the top trim to the side trim. I'm not sure about gluing them, because if you need to replace one side, you may have to replace them all if you can't separate the glue joint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastActivityDate="2015-03-22T14:41:02.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="335" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-22T15:27:44.643" Score="9" ViewCount="247" Body="&lt;p&gt;(This may be multiple related questions;  assistance in breaking it up would be welcome if so.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many woodworkers have learned that a surprising amount of lumber, including some surprisingly good/interesting material, can be had cheap or free by deconstructing unwanted furniture and  shipping pallets, rescuing it from house renovations, and the like. What are the best ways to prep this for reuse? What unusual sources are there? (I know some folks have gotten expensive woods cheap by spotting something on eBay worth more as wood than as constructed object.)  What's the line between &quot;worth repairing&quot; and &quot;worth scavenging&quot; and &quot;not worth the effort&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can start with a few observations/questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, going over it with a small metal detector to make sure there are no fasteners remaining to damage your tools is a good starting point. Lead paint is an obvious hazard to watch out for, as are termites. Pressure treatment can be a health risk. What else needs to be avoided?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Removing previous finish -- I've been told that paint is damaging to planer blades, and some folks just take a &quot;veneer&quot; layer off at the bandsaw to deal with it or keep an old set of planer blades around for this task. Do varnishes present the same risks? (I have a small stack of solid-oak flooring that could become picture frames or drawer components if I can clean it up without losing too much...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else does the aspiring upcycler need to know?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="140" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T13:38:03.760" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T16:56:30.037" Title="Recycling &quot;pre-loved&quot; lumber -- techniques?" Tags="|safety|pallet|making-lumber|surface-preparation|refinishing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="280" CreationDate="2015-03-22T15:46:05.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another motorized solution would be to take a &quot;veneer cut&quot; off the face with a bandsaw. Less punishing to your tools than using a planer would be, and bandsaw blades are less hassle to replace if it came to that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've just posted a related question about upcycling &quot;pre-loved wood&quot;, though it may get shot down or broken up as too general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-03-22T15:46:05.880" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="335" CreationDate="2015-03-22T15:55:32.087" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whether a peice of wood is worth it depends on how you are going to use it. If you want it for inlays then you don't need much viable wood. You just need enough to cut of the piece you want with a scroll- or band-saw. If you want to build a cabinet out of it then you will need a lot more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can scrape of the finish with a chisel. Sharpen it and hold it perpendicular to the surface. However depending on how you will use it you can leave it on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2015-03-22T15:55:32.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="307" CreationDate="2015-03-22T17:45:01.250" Score="53" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pascal Belloncle has already given a good explanation of why there are two different kinds of blades, but what is the practical aspect of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;An image speaks more than a thousand words:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YxQMq.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iNYAZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All cuts are done on the same piece of wood with a ryoba saw (one side rip, one side cross).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n0vPW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can immediately see that the rip cut with the rip blade goes twice as deep (both cuts were done pulling the blade along its full length 3 times). Also, you can immediately see that the cross cut with the cross blade comes out nicely whereas the cross cut with the rip blade is... well, far from perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="135" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-03-22T17:45:01.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="335" CreationDate="2015-03-22T18:31:32.233" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used a belt sander to remove most of the finish of some old tiger oak flooring before running it through the planer. 80 grit sand paper is cheaper than blades. But I did keep a set of old blades to use for the first pass on all of them. A metal detector is a great investment if you'll be doing a lot of reclaiming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="186" LastActivityDate="2015-03-22T18:31:32.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="340" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="341" CreationDate="2015-03-22T18:33:34.243" Score="8" ViewCount="4324" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a corner hutch with a typical top half which has the top half glass and the bottom have a set of solid doors. Here's a pic:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gCDOX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did some restoration on this a few years ago and saved it from getting painted by the previous owner (who'd do that to wood, right?) While this job was not a perfect restoration or anything, I did get it back to the point where the wood showed and the stain was fairly even. It took me quite a while to get it back into shape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the things which has always bugged me is, the doors at the bottom have some damage on them which is mainly on the inside, so isn't readily seen. What Is there a specific way in which I should try to repair them? Is there a way to patch them, or do I need to replace the wood? Here are a pictures of the damage:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X5aMU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xOhcs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-04-15T19:01:57.197" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T16:07:56.003" Title="Fixing a door's edge properly" Tags="|technique|restoration|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="340" CreationDate="2015-03-23T00:25:45.623" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the defect were in a location that was not subject to wear and abuse, you could fill the defect with wood putty.  After it cured, you could sand it down, and finish to taste.  Unfortunately, this location will get beat up further, and the wood putty would just chip off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better possibility is to make a &quot;patch&quot; out of a similar piece of wood.  Trim away just enough of the existing wood that you have a good, clean surface, with a regular enough shape that you can make a complementary patch.  Shape the patch to match, so that the patch stands slightly proud.  Attach the patch, probably with glue.  Sand down the patch to smoothly match the piece.  Finish to taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="140" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T00:25:45.623" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="342" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="343" CreationDate="2015-03-23T04:06:32.377" Score="12" ViewCount="1831" Body="&lt;p&gt;I keep seeing projects being build from pallets and pallet wood. Can I just take any pallet or are there safety concerns? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I need to know about pallets in order to use them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T04:14:44.167" LastActivityDate="2019-01-06T13:49:34.533" Title="What do I need to know when looking at pallets for wood?" Tags="|safety|pallet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="342" CreationDate="2015-03-23T04:14:22.700" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;These can usually be easy to come by. Plenty of businesses view them as scrap and are glad for you taking them away. Pallets are a favorite among up-cyclers as a (&lt;em&gt;usually&lt;/em&gt;) free source of material and its unique look and feel. That being said there are several points to consider when collecting pallet wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Simple Inspection&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some basic things when looking at a pallet that will let you know if it is even worth considering bringing it home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Overall condition&lt;/strong&gt;: In most cases you would only want a pallet where most of the boards are in good general condition. Visual inspection will reveal most of the common issues like splits, cracks, deep gouges.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Assembly&lt;/strong&gt;: This mostly depends on your project and tenacity. Looking for how the pallet is assembled as far as number of nails and/or staples as well as their placement should play a factor. If you are trying to conserve as much of the board as possible then too many nails risks the yield you might get from that pallets disassembly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stains/Smells&lt;/strong&gt;: Assuming you are not lucky enough to know where you pallet came from, smelling the pallet and looking for stains might give you insight as to what it was carrying. You want to avoid oils and stains as they might be chemical residues&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Health/Safety&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something you might locate, while eyeing a pallet for take home, is &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISPM_15&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the stamp&lt;/a&gt;. Sample below from Wikipedia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1d/IPPC_from_box.jpg/220px-IPPC_from_box.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pallet Stamp&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a stamp is not present it does not mean you should not use it. Having one makes the decision much easier as to whether or not you should take it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stamps, similar to the one above, would exist on international pallets and are subject to certain standards. These standards are adhered to by many but &lt;em&gt;not all&lt;/em&gt; countries. For the stamp do be official it must bear the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ippc.int/en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;IPPC&lt;/a&gt; logo. The stamp contains other components but the main focus is the letter code that identifies the wood treatment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;HT&lt;/strong&gt;: Heat Treated&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;KD&lt;/strong&gt;: Kiln Dried&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DB&lt;/strong&gt;: Debarked&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;MB&lt;/strong&gt;: Methyl Bromide Fumigation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HT and KD both involve a heating process to control pest and fungi. MB is the stamp you want to avoid as it means it was chemically treated. In many cases it is considered a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bromomethane#Health_effects&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;health risk&lt;/a&gt; and should &lt;strong&gt;never&lt;/strong&gt; be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stamp-less pallets&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is common place for pallets that have not left the country. These can still be used but more caution is required. Great for most projects but you should still consider possible risks if the project would be in contact with children or food. The points mentioned under &lt;em&gt;Simple Inspection&lt;/em&gt; would be pertinent here once again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Colored/Painted Pallets&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/irXOh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Blue CHEP Pallet&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from shipleytransport&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You, no doubt, will run into orange and blue pallets. These are used as rental pallets and were designed for long life. As such it is likely that they have come into contact with chemicals. Another point is that these pallets usually have a deposit or reimbursement fee associated to them. Companies have a vested interest in these pallets in order to get that deposit back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The lonely pallet&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No doubt you will find a pallet all by it's lonesome beside a dumpster and it passes all tests and you want to take it home. You could probably just take the thing but don't assume that because of where it is that it is garbage. If you can ask someone its would be a courtesy. For all you know that is where someone else agreed to pick it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don’t be discouraged but informed and aware when looking for pallets. There are lots of pallets out there so it should't be hard to find useful materials. Plenty of uses for pallets from building birdhouses to wine racks to a clubhouse to a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.viralnova.com/build-a-pallet-house/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;real house&lt;/a&gt;. Happy hunting for that source of wood. A more comprehensive write up on this topic, as well as project ideas, can be found at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.1001pallets.com/pallet-safety/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1001Pallets&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2019-01-06T13:49:34.533" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="344" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="348" CreationDate="2015-03-23T14:47:06.830" Score="10" ViewCount="2670" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in suburbia USA, where hardwood trees grow all over the place.  I regularly see large diameter (8 inch, 20 cm) branches and even whole trees removed and end up getting chipped or allowed to rot on the ground.  I would like to rescue some of this green wood, let it age and use it for projects in a couple of years.  But I am not sure where to start, should I leave it whole, cut the green wood with my table saw, or what?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a table saw with a 10 inch blade which is the closest thing I own that &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; work as a lumber mill. I have this vision where I cut the green wood into rough lumber, stack it outside and a couple years later start using my rescued wood to make stuff. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T01:43:37.290" Title="What are the steps for the general hobbyist to rescue green wood for future projects?" Tags="|green-wood|making-lumber|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="344" CreationDate="2015-03-23T15:05:12.350" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, make sure you're permitted to take the wood!  Some places intend to sell their dropwood to local mills.  Always check first about a downed tree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want a portable sawmill or an apparatus to saw into boards with a chainsaw:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a79XS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chainsaw mount to mill slabs&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have sawn the log into slabs, you would use stickering to dry the wet slabs over a period of months.  This process involves setting the slabs on some wooden &quot;sticks&quot; so that airflow can get around the entire slab:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Np8v9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;photo of stickering a pile of wood&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It takes a while for green wood to age properly.  Depending on the type of wood, it can be over a year to properly age.  Having the wood in a warm, dry place (like a dehumidified garage or basement) can accelerate the drying process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T15:05:12.350" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="346" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="352" CreationDate="2015-03-23T15:20:57.563" Score="10" ViewCount="8691" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand different woods age at different rates and the chosen drying process itself is a factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can you tell if green wood, in general, has aged enough? Is there a visual aid? Do you make test holes and measure the moisture in some way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could see this being closed as too broad but there must some basic guidelines to consider. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T17:58:53.620" LastActivityDate="2021-04-08T09:23:24.723" Title="How can I tell if my green wood is dry enough?" Tags="|green-wood|moisture|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="346" CreationDate="2015-03-23T15:24:52.327" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rule of thumb is to allow a year per inch of thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More precise answer would be to use a moisture meter, available from woodworking suppliers. Prices for these vary; I have a cheap one but do 't know enough about the varieties available to have a valid opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T15:24:52.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="344" CreationDate="2015-03-23T15:32:55.833" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;First thing, most branches are very poor for turning into lumber.  They will be stress wood and very likely to bend and twist as they dry or after, sometimes even while you are cutting them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They of course can be used for turning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Peter Grace said, always ask before you collect it, but if it's just laying around, most of the time you will be allowed, some might be very grateful to get rid of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now for processing and storing for later.  You have many options, but if all you have is a table saw you are asking to loose parts of your fingers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are saving the larger pieces for turning, splitting it in half and drying it like firewood is a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Peter also recommended the chainsaw mill.  They can work and they are a LOT of work, but likely the cheapest option.  Not only do you need to buy the guide, you need (should) to have a special chain for the saw.  Most chains are designed for cross cutting wood (across the grain) and to make lumber you should have a ripping chain (along the grain), cutting slabs like that is not only hard on the person it is hard on the chain saw, and not having the correct chain is MUCH harder on both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also be aware that unless you are an expert sawyer you are not going to cut nice flat cuts. so you need to cut them larger to be able to plane down to your desired thickness.  You also need a guide to make your first cut 'flat' and not twist around the log.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, you can make lumber this way and MANY people do, the equipment is relatively cheap and after a dozen logs your will likely be doing a reasonable job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people also use bandsaws to make lumber, getting a large throat like 12&quot; would be my minimum recommendation and then you would also need to build some guides to help run the logs through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Band saws will waste a lot less wood because of a much smaller kerf, chain saws are going to be at least a 1/4&quot; for each cut and the more uneven the cut you more you have to waste planing it.  Bandsaw kerf is about 1/16&quot; or less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also find in many communities people who have portable mills and can be paid to cut up the lumber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last you can get your own, My dad and I bought a Woodmizer LT15 (used) 8 years or so ago and make our own.  It's been worth every penny.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, with all of these options you still have one thing to worry about, often trees that are 'harvested' in town have many things inside that are dangerous to blades of any stripe.  Nails, barbed wire, even large parts of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=bicycle%20in%20tree&amp;amp;rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS603US603&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;biw=1858&amp;amp;bih=975&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;imgil=gm11D-VeND8nAM%253A%253ByDWrWnBxrQq_FM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fimgur.com%25252Fgallery%25252Fl0fye&amp;amp;source=iu&amp;amp;pf=m&amp;amp;fir=gm11D-VeND8nAM%253A%252CyDWrWnBxrQq_FM%252C_&amp;amp;usg=__G2LiGI598nP5MAdhFzsRFuHj-xc%3D&amp;amp;ved=0CCcQyjc&amp;amp;ei=hDEQVcD-DI2HyASjgILgAQ#imgrc=gm11D-VeND8nAM%253A%3ByDWrWnBxrQq_FM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fi.imgur.com%252Fl0fye.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fimgur.com%252Fgallery%252Fl0fye%3B1600%3B1200&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bicycles&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have it cut into lumber, you need to 'sticker' it and let it dry for quite a while, species and environment dependent for how long.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also pay to have it kiln dried or make your own small solar kiln.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-02-03T01:43:37.290" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T01:43:37.290" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="349" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="350" CreationDate="2015-03-23T15:43:55.323" Score="8" ViewCount="3156" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a big fan on making my own drawers and wooden drawer slides (much cheaper and less mental math than installing hardware, IMO). I tend to use &lt;a href=&quot;http://dhh.howyousign.com/?p=365&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; type of construction where the drawer bottom sits (and slides) on runners (see image below). When I first started building these sorts of drawers, I cut the drawers about 1/8 in less than the distance from bottom runner to top runner to ensure that the drawer fit. The problem was that the drawers would tip whenever I opened them. So I began modifying my design to allow a smaller gap. Now I'm at the point where I cut the drawers sides to the exact same size as the drawer opening, then run a handplane past it a couple times to get a tight fit that slides easily. The end result is that my drawers, even when fully extended, open parallel to the floor without tipping (like they used to when I used a 1/8 in gap).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9vzTW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Drawer slide construction&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen other websites recommend this sort of snug-fit construction (can't recall where off the top of my head). But I'm wondering if there will be seasonal movement problems? I just build these drawers in the last few months (I have a garage, aka, COLD workshop). Will I have problems in the summer when wood expands? I know wood expands across the grain, so it seems I &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; have problems. If I refit the drawers in the summer, won't they then be too loose during the winter? How do I combat these seasonal changes in drawer sizes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastActivityDate="2023-03-14T15:34:44.073" Title="Planning for wood movement in drawers" Tags="|wood-movement|drawer-construction|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="349" CreationDate="2015-03-23T16:02:51.507" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the 1/8&quot; gap that you mentioned is recommended precisely to account for wood movement, and you may find that the drawers fit too tightly once they pickup moisture during the more humid summer months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, if you had constructed the drawers during the humid summer months instead of the winter, you would want a tighter fit to begin with, because the drawers would shrink and fit more loosely during the winter months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also limit wood movement by using more dimensionally-stable materials such as MDF or plywood rather than solid wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that many factors contribute to wood movement, including material, species, climate, and grain direction. You can use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/shrinkulator.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shrinkulator&lt;/a&gt; to estimate movement based on a specific material or wood species.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-06-09T22:15:31.483" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T22:15:31.483" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="346" CreationDate="2015-03-23T16:30:27.667" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several ways to check the moisture in a piece of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most expensive and simplest is a moisture meter, I bought a Ligno one and it works pretty good for me.  You can set it to different 'types' of wood and it gives you back a number when you press the points into the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have time and are willing to sacrifice some wood, you can take a piece cut off part and dry it out in the oven.  You weigh it at the beginning and through out the process, when the weight stabilizes it should be %100 dry, the difference is how much water weight there was in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You then weigh another piece in the drying rack and periodically weigh (or wait until you think it should be getting close).  You can use that to calculate how much moisture is left in the wood when that piece is 'dry' then the whole lot should be about the same (assuming relatively consistent environment for all of it)  Or you just repeat the process of Cut a small piece, weigh it, bake it, weigh it wait and repeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a formula to use: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moisture content = (Weight when cut - Oven dry weight) \ Oven dry weight * 100 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise you are mostly guessing, a year is good for some woods, especially if it has air circulating, some like oak need closer to 2 years air drying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T16:46:04.363" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T16:46:04.363" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="346" CreationDate="2015-03-23T16:39:31.637" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, there is not a visual aid; you must measure or calculate the moisture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Measuring with a meter&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To measure the moisture directly, you can use a moisture meter. Pin-type meters require you to drive a set of pins into the wood, while pinless meters just need to be pressed against the surface of the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Delmhorst, a manufacturer of both types of meters, &lt;a href=&quot;http://info.delmhorst.com/blog/bid/355339/Pin-or-Pinless-Moisture-Meters-Which-Kind-is-Best-for-You&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;explains the pros and cons&lt;/a&gt; of each type on their website:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For wood, both pinless and pin-type moisture meters have their uses.&#xA;  Pin-type meters, in particular, have the advantage of being able to&#xA;  tell you the depth at which a moisture pocket in wood occurs. To do&#xA;  this, simply push the pins in partially, take a reading, push them in&#xA;  a little more and take another reading, repeating until you hit the&#xA;  moisture pocket in the wood or reach the maximum penetration depth of&#xA;  the pins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The major drawback to using pin-type meters is that they can only&#xA;  measure the moisture content of the material between the pins, so if a&#xA;  moisture pocket falls outside of that area, it can go undetected.&#xA;  However, this same focus is what allows pin meters to give users a&#xA;  precise location for moisture pockets and the depth at which they&#xA;  occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Pinless meters, on the other hand, are very good at scanning large&#xA;  areas of an object quickly. With these meters, there are no pins to&#xA;  constantly and carefully push in and out of the wood. Simply press the&#xA;  scanning plate against a flat piece of wood, push the button, and you&#xA;  have a moisture reading in seconds. This process can be repeated over&#xA;  different areas of a single piece of wood to give a thorough reading&#xA;  of the %MC of that piece of wood without leaving pin-holes in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There are, however, a few drawbacks to pinless meters:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A pinless meter requires a flat surface on which to press the scanning&#xA;  plate. Without such a flat surface, readings cannot be taken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Pinless meters have a fixed scanning depth. If a piece of wood is too&#xA;  thick, the pinless meter will not be able to take a reading of the&#xA;  deepest layer of the wood. If the wood is too thin, you may actually&#xA;  get readings of the material behind that piece of wood, rather than&#xA;  for the wood itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Metal objects in piece of wood can cause a false positive. Pinless&#xA;  meters emit electromagnetic waves to scan a piece of wood, and use the&#xA;  distortions of returned waves to calculate the %MC of that wood.&#xA;  Foreign objects such as nails interfere with the electromagnetic waves&#xA;  emitted by the meter, creating a false positive reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When choosing a type of moisture meter for woodworking, take into&#xA;  account the size and shape of the wood you’re working with. For&#xA;  example, floorboards and other thin pieces of wood might not be thick&#xA;  enough to get reliable readings from a pinless meter, whereas big&#xA;  lengths of lumber would be perfect for pinless moisture meters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Calculating moisture content&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To calculate the moisture, you take a sample of the wood and weigh it. Record this as the &lt;em&gt;initial weight&lt;/em&gt;. Then dry the sample in an oven set to 217 degrees F  for 4 hours and weigh it again. Repeat this step until you've recorded the same weight several times in a row. This final number is the &lt;em&gt;oven dry weight&lt;/em&gt;. Then use the following formula:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;moisture content = (initial weight - oven dry weight) / oven dry weight * 100&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More specifically, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://ir.library.oregonstate.edu/xmlui/bitstream/handle/1957/5190/Moisture_Content_ocr.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;study from Oregon State University&lt;/a&gt; recommends the following procedure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Performing the Test&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It is simple to do an oven-dry test, but the devil is in the details. The test is&#xA;  performed by cutting the sample to be tested, weighing it, drying it to a constant weight,&#xA;  reweighing, and doing the calculation. Now the details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Sample Selection&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The samples need to be representative of the lot of wood from which they are&#xA;  taken. Thus, they should come from throughout a pile or shipment, not just the top or&#xA;  sides. After a board is chosen, the sample should be cut at least 2 feet from the end of&#xA;  the board because wood picks up and loses moisture very rapidly through the end grain.&#xA;  The samples should either be weighed immediately after cutting or each sample&#xA;  should be stored in a separate plastic bag. After the initial weight is obtained, no&#xA;  particular precautions for storage need to be observed and the sample can be oven-dried&#xA;  at your convenience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Weighing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Either a data sheet with sample numbers should be used or sometimes the&#xA;  weight can be written directly on the sample. Once the initial weight is taken and the&#xA;  sample begins to dry, there is no going back so it's important to keep a good record.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Drying&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The time to dry is typically about 24 hours for a one- to two-inch sample cut from&#xA;  dimension lumber or boards. The correct method is to dry to a constant weight, meaning&#xA;  that the weight change over a four-hour period is less than twice the sensitivity of the&#xA;  scale. This means less than about 0.2 grams for a 100 gram sample.&#xA;  Do not add wet samples to the oven when other samples are almost dry. Water&#xA;  will evaporate from the wet samples and be picked up by the drier ones causing an error&#xA;  when they are weighed due to a temporary increase in moisture content.&#xA;  If the oven temperature is too low, the relative humidity in the oven will not be&#xA;  low enough. The ambient air contains moisture and raising its temperature simply lowers&#xA;  its relative humidity causing a lower equilibrium moisture content. For example, if the&#xA;  ambient air is at 70°F and 50% relative humidity, the relative humidity in the oven will&#xA;  be about 1% with an equilibrium moisture content of about 0.1 to 0.2%. On a humid day&#xA;  the samples won't dry as much, but at 217°F the variability due to ambient conditions&#xA;  is minimal. An oven in a humid tropical country will give results that are within 0.3 or&#xA;  0.4% moisture content of and oven in a cold dry climate as long as 217°F is used.&#xA;  If the oven temperature is too high, some of the wood components can be driven&#xA;  off. When these are counted as moisture, the indicated moisture content is too high.&#xA;  Do not overload an oven. Good air circulation around the samples is needed to&#xA;  reduce the risk of fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Is it dry enough?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether you measure the moisture of your lumber with a meter or by calculating it yourself, you might find general moisture content recommendations ranging from 6%-12%. The truth is, this figure will fluctuate with temperature and relative humidity. What you really need to aim for is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Equilibrium_moisture_content&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;equilibrium moisture content&lt;/a&gt;, or EMC, which is the moisture content at which the wood is neither losing nor gaining moisture from the air. Suffice it to say, this is not quite as simple a formula, but there are several calculators and charts you can use, such as the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.csgnetwork.com/emctablecalc.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.csgnetwork.com/emctablecalc.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodworkerssource.com/moisture.php&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.woodworkerssource.com/moisture.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your wood has not reached equilibrium, you need to let it continue to dry. Ideally this involves &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/lumber/how-to-succeed-at-air-drying-lumber/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;stickering&lt;/a&gt; the lumber and air-drying it or drying it in a commercial kiln or a homemade solar kiln.  The typical rule-of-thumb for air-drying fresh-cut lumber is 1 year per inch of thickness, but you can continue to check the moisture content periodically since the type of wood and environmental factors can accelerate or lengthen the drying process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T20:32:46.330" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T20:32:46.330" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="353" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="355" CreationDate="2015-03-23T16:48:09.330" Score="17" ViewCount="23181" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a dust mask but I wonder if it is worth wearing when working on pine wood. I do wear it when working a piece of oak or beech.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would you consider cutting some wood species without a mask safe? Do you use a mask with every wood species? How long does dangerous dust stay in the air?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, is a mask still necessary when using a central dust collector?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastEditorUserId="140" LastEditDate="2015-09-16T14:16:22.830" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T14:00:00.247" Title="What kind of wood dust is toxic/dangerous and requires usage of dust mask?" Tags="|safety|sawdust|toxicity|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="353" CreationDate="2015-03-23T17:06:22.860" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would you consider cutting some wood species wood without mask safe ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do all the time.  However, I also have a dust collection system and 2 different kinds of face masks that I also use.  Exposure makes a difference. Some people are susceptible to different things vs. others.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do you use mask with every wood species ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me two things make a difference to whether I wear a mask.  The first is how much exposure am I dealing with.  hours in a sawdust filled room with suspended particles?  definitely wear a mask, sanding? working at the lathe?  Yes and yes.  One cut with a miter? no, hand saws? no likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How long dangerous dust stay in the air ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dust can stay in the air for quite a while, espeically the smallest and most dangerous particles.  Some dust collectors don't even filter out the smallest particles and actually push them back into the air, these are bad because they are kind of like asbestos in that they get into the aveoli in the lungs and can damage them.  Some species like Walnut have extra 'natural' chemicals that add to the issues.  There is always the possibility of allergic reactions as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also, is mask still necessary when using a central dust collector ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good one will filter to 1 micron, but many only filter to 5 microns.  these are the most important particles to remove.  overhead filters are really a good thing to have as well.  How much stuff are you cutting and putting in the air?  a couple cuts an hour?  not to bad, lots of cutting?   If you are sneezing or have black/brown boogers definitely be wearing a mask.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But ultimately, it's your health and your lungs are important, if you question it, tend to fall on the side of safety and wear a mask. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T17:06:22.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="353" CreationDate="2015-03-23T17:45:33.577" Score="15" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've a dust mask but I wonder if it worth wearing it when working on&#xA;  pine wood. I do wear it when working a piece oak or beech.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, let's be clear: a disposable paper dust mask may be slightly better than nothing, but even a fancy $5 disposable P100 dust mask with a breathing valve will not perform as well as a properly-fitted respirator with replaceable P100 filters. If you have a beard, you should consider a positive-pressure respirator since a normal respirator may not be able to make a good seal with your skin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some woods are more toxic than others, and some people are more sensitive than others to certain types of wood. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-allergies-and-toxicity/&quot;&gt;Wood Database&lt;/a&gt; contains toxicity information for many types of wood, including possible symptoms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would you consider cutting some wood species wood without mask safe ?&#xA;  Do you use mask with every wood species ? how long dangerous dust stay&#xA;  in the air ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I consider cutting any wood without a respirator unsafe, regardless of species. The length of time dust remains in the air will vary, but I've seen at least one magazine article recommend continuing to wear a respirator for at least 30 minutes after you stop producing sawdust in that room, assuming the air is not disturbed by a fan or air handling system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also, is mask still necessary when using a central dust collector ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would you rather have your lungs or a respirator filter the particles out of the air?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to err on the side of safety, you need a properly-fitted respirator with P100 filter cartridges. Few, if any, dust collectors are capable of capturing 100% of the dust at every tool (it also depends on the tool's design), and very few dust collectors provide filtration adequate for removing sub-micron particles. Most inexpensive consumer-grade dust collectors only filter down to 1, 5, or even 30 microns. A dust collector outfitted with this type of filter will simply recirculate the sub-micron particles through the air, allowing them to increase in concentration as you continue to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If exhausting your dust collector to the outdoors is a practical option, you may want to consider that rather than spending a lot of money on HEPA-rated dust collector filters. The obvious drawback is that you will also exhaust all of your warm air in the winter and all your cool air in the summer. Also be certain to include an air inlet if exhausting outside. Otherwise, your dust collector won't work as effectively; and worse, negative pressure inside your shop can cause the combustion gases from a water heater or furnace sharing the same space to be pulled back into the space--for example, if your shop is inside your basement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-03-24T15:34:24.470" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T15:34:24.470" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="353" CreationDate="2015-03-23T17:47:16.577" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;@bowlturner and @rob gave some excellent responses and I'll add a couple of thoughts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remember there's a big difference between collecting chips and collecting dust. &quot;Dust collectors&quot; are often good at collecting chips, but allow the fine dust to escape. What that means is that you can have a &lt;em&gt;visibly&lt;/em&gt; dust-free shop and still have major dust problems. You might want to check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/&quot;&gt;Bill Pentz's&lt;/a&gt; website for more details on how much cfm is required to collect the fine dust particles at the source. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Repeated exposure to airborn dust can, over time, have detrimental effects. So, for example, if walnut doesn't seem to bother you now, it may decades down the road. (I've heard stories of woodworkers who have had to retire early because they developed an allergic reaction). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It's probably better to be safe than sorry. (This is coming from someone who rarely uses a dust mask...ahhhh the feeling of invincibility among the youth). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tend to choose whether to use a mask, not based on which species I'm cutting, but which &lt;em&gt;operations&lt;/em&gt; I'm performing. Jointing and planing--no dust mask. Table saw/bandsaw/sanding--definitely wear a mask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my shop, I have a three-stage strategy for dust collection:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Collect as much as possible from the source using a dust collector. For table saws and routers, that means both from beneath and from above (I'm personally still working on this). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Have a filter running whenever I'm in the shop. I just attached a furnace filter to a fan, then placed that on the same switch as the light--anytime I turn on the lights, I'm turning on the filter. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Leaf blower...seriously. Every night when I finish working, I use a leaf-blower to excavate the dust from my shop. Obviously, this will initially stir up dust (so wear a mask!), but I'm hoping that over time, it reduces the accumulation of dust that can be stirred up.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T17:47:16.577" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="357" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="360" CreationDate="2015-03-23T17:49:22.637" Score="15" ViewCount="3348" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to process 4/4 soft maple rough stock into 1/2&quot; thin boards, ready for use in furniture and I'm having a real hard time getting them flat.  Here's my process so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crosscut a 18&quot; piece from the rough stock, about 12&quot; wide&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rip this piece in half for roughly the final width I'll need&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resaw each of these pieces so they're roughly 1/2&quot; thick&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to flatten the board with my #4 plane, end up chasing my tail and never getting it flat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should mention that I'm only using hand tools for the entire process, and all sawing is done with a Japanese ryoba (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fine-tools.com/ryoba.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt;).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know one issue I'll have to sort out is holding the work while planing, but what planing techniques could I be missing?  I generally start out going diagonal to the grain which gets me fairly close to flat.  Then I'll start going along the grain, but I never get completely flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Here are some pictures of the sole of my plane:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K1jcy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mouth&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dkCWP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close up of mouth&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it's a #4, not a #5 as I said earlier.  The sole is completely flat according to my measurements.  I don't see any nicks in the iron.  I do see a fair number of scratches on the sole and I'm not sure what's causing those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2015-03-24T19:50:21.933" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T14:57:38.597" Title="Best way to flatten boards by hand" Tags="|technique|hand-saw|hand-planing|hand-tools|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="353" CreationDate="2015-03-23T17:56:07.930" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For reference regarding toxicity, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-allergies-and-toxicity/&quot;&gt;http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-allergies-and-toxicity/&lt;/a&gt; is a pretty good resource, but as with any allergy, some people are more allergic than others. Bear in mind it's not just toxic particles that are dangerous; for example, bakers are known to have health complications from inhaling flour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, if I'm doing anything more than cutting a couple boards to size, I wear a mask. Even if it's not likely to cause health problems: I don't like having sawdust boogers ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T17:56:07.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="212" CreationDate="2015-03-23T18:19:34.977" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, if you want the bark to stay on, (at least best chance) When is more important than What.  Wood cut in late fall or winter, after the tree goes dormant and before the sap starts flowing again in the spring.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tree 'dries' itself out and the bark stays attached to the wood much better.  In the spring just when the sap is starting to run is the worst time to try and keep the bark on and the best time to cut wood that you want to peel the bark off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oak and Hickory (shag bark) cut in winter will keep it's bark for a long time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T18:19:34.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="357" CreationDate="2015-03-23T18:21:38.847" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are a brave individual--attempting to hand plane. I've successfully hand-planed my workbench and here was my method:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use two totally flat sticks (&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Winding_stick&quot;&gt;winding sticks&lt;/a&gt;) on each end of the board to identify twist. If there is twist, begin by skimming from the high surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Starting at one end of the board, stretch one stick across the grain and look for light beneath. Mark the high spots with a pencil and skim that part (I went diagonal with the grain) until you see little or no light beneath the stick. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Move the stick several inches and repeat. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Repeat the same process, but lay the sticks in the direction of the grain. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Finish with one final pass across the entire board, with the grain. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of reasons why it might not be working:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The sole of your plane isn't flat. Have you checked that the #5 if completely flat? If not, rubbing it on a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface should do the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The plane may not be large enough. I wouldn't think this would be an issue with only 18 in boards, but #5s are smoothing planes (if I remember correctly). You may want to try a jack plane (although, a 22 in jack plane on an 18 in board may be interesting....do take a picture so we can laugh at you :))&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The blade itself has nicks? You mention in your comment that there's uneven bumps on the surface. Do you have plane tracks? If so, it might be that you don't have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/blog/269/title/How%20To%20Camber%20A%20Plane%20Iron%20%28And%20Why%20It%20Works%29&quot;&gt;camber&lt;/a&gt;, too much of a camber, or nicks in the blade. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T18:21:38.847" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="361" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="379" CreationDate="2015-03-23T19:09:19.590" Score="29" ViewCount="55970" Body="&lt;p&gt;After you've fabricated your pieces, is it better to &quot;glue-up&quot;, then stain? Or is it better to stain first, then glue? What's a good rule-of-thumb?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="192" LastEditorUserId="8085" LastEditDate="2020-02-02T16:56:57.253" LastActivityDate="2020-12-05T20:16:26.263" Title="Stain then glue, or vice-versa?" Tags="|staining|glue|assembly|process|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="362" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-23T19:10:42.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assembly questions pertain to issues dealing with the joining of project parts such as clamping, gluing, nailing, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This tag is one of several tags that can be used to identify the stages in a project's life the question is addressing.  Other useful phase tags include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;design, finishing, &amp;amp; installation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="192" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-02-25T01:56:13.060" LastActivityDate="2017-02-25T01:56:13.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="363" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-23T19:10:42.677" Score="0" Body="Assembly questions pertain to issues dealing with the joining of project parts." OwnerUserId="192" LastEditorUserId="192" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T19:34:10.037" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T19:34:10.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="361" CreationDate="2015-03-23T19:13:39.510" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of things to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you accidentally spill glue on your pieces, the stain will not penetrate it. So, this argues in favor of staining before gluing. However...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you get stain on the joints, the glue will not work (or at least it won't work as well).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think things are typically stained after the fact except in rare circumstances such as for a frame and panel door. However, I think either works as long as you're aware of the two pitfalls mentioned. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T19:13:39.510" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="365" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-23T19:13:54.800" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Process questions pertain to issues dealing with planning out your woodworking project, such as the recommended order of project steps, how to set up repeatable cuts, or generally complete your project in a more efficient manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="192" LastEditorUserId="192" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T19:46:35.517" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T19:46:35.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="366" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-23T19:13:54.800" Score="0" Body="Process questions pertain to issues dealing with planning out your woodworking project." OwnerUserId="192" LastEditorUserId="192" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T20:17:08.407" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T20:17:08.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="361" CreationDate="2015-03-23T19:17:24.597" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always glue up my stuff first, and I always sand all the joints after I'm done to make sure they are even and any glue that was on the outside of the joint is removed so the wood will take a stain and not be blocked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T19:17:24.597" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="368" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-23T19:27:28.297" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Questions dealing with safety issues in woodworking.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This includes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to safely use specific equipment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What kinds of safety equipment can/should be used &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Techniques to make specific tasks safer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T18:39:22.973" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T18:39:22.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="369" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-23T19:27:28.297" Score="0" Body="Questions dealing with safety issues in woodworking.  Equipment usage, techniques etc. where the potential harm to self or others exists." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T18:39:22.973" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T18:39:22.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="65" CreationDate="2015-03-23T19:31:01.500" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many equestrian centers will welcome the dust and woodchips for bedding. I'm told that's where &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.belvoireagle.com/news/article_460382aa-efa6-11e2-99e2-001a4bcf6878.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fort Belvoir's now-defunct woodshop&lt;/a&gt; &lt;em&gt;(21 nail gun salute, moment of silence)&lt;/em&gt; sent its wood waste. The recipients did not seem to care that the dust included plywood and pressure-treated wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="192" LastEditorUserId="192" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T19:37:09.513" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T19:37:09.513" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="371" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-23T19:31:43.347" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Joinery is the process of joining two pieces (usually wood) together.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There are many techniques, tools, and hardware available.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Joinery can include anything from a butt joint with nails or screws to hidden dovetail joints (blind dovetails) or tongue and groove, not to mention glues and knockdown (KD) hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Resources:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fairham, William, &lt;strong&gt;Woodwork Joints How they are Set Out, How Made and Where Used&lt;/strong&gt;, Available on Kindle or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gutenberg.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.gutenberg.org&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hayward, Charles H., &lt;strong&gt;Woodwork Joints&lt;/strong&gt;, Evans Bros., 1950 (numerous reprints).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rogowski, Gary, &lt;strong&gt;The Complete Illustrated Guide to Joinery&lt;/strong&gt;, Taunton Press, 2002.  A comprehensive survey of wood joint types including many variations for each. It covers tools, carcass and frame joinery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Allen, Sam, &lt;strong&gt;Wood Joiner's Handbook&lt;/strong&gt;, Sterling Publishing Co., 1990.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Noll, Terrie, &lt;strong&gt;Joint Book: The Complete Guide to Wood Joinery&lt;/strong&gt;, Chartwell Books, 2009. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jackson, Albert &amp;amp; Day, David, &lt;strong&gt;Good Wood Joints&lt;/strong&gt;, Harper Collins, 1995.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engler, Nick, &lt;strong&gt;Joining Wood&lt;/strong&gt;, Bookworks Inc., 1992.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T18:22:39.847" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T18:22:39.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="372" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-23T19:31:43.347" Score="0" Body="The process of joining two pieces (usually wood) together.  Techniques, tools, hardware." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T19:57:04.347" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T19:57:04.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="373" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-23T19:38:20.893" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Primarily meant for questions about turning bowls on the lathe.  How to do it, techniques, equipment to use, safety precautions etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T19:57:47.893" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T19:57:47.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="374" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-23T19:38:20.893" Score="0" Body="Primarily meant for questions about turning bowls on the lathe." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T21:51:35.330" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T21:51:35.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="375" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-23T19:46:00.060" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A wood product that is made with many thin layers of wood. The layers are generally laminated in alternating grain directions (each at 90° to the next) to improve dimensional stability and reduce warping. The number of plies is from 3 upwards, and always an uneven number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plywood can range in quality from low cost sheathing materials (often made from a range of softwoods) to high-quality void-free veneered plywood made from hardwood throughout. It can even include specially made shaped plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T18:43:44.653" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T18:43:44.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="376" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-23T19:46:00.060" Score="0" Body="A wood product that is made with many thin layers of wood. The layers are generally laminated in alternating grain directions to improve strength and reduce warping." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="38" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T20:16:01.313" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T20:16:01.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="377" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-23T20:03:20.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using a lathe or a drill setup to create items. Spindle work, bowls and goblets, pens and pendants. If the wood is spinning during shaping it's turning. This includes questions about turning, equipment, tools and techniques as well as safety practices. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T19:59:59.723" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T19:59:59.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="378" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-23T20:03:20.450" Score="0" Body="Using a lathe to create items. Spindle work, bowls and goblets, pens and pendants. And so much more.  " OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T19:59:59.723" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T19:59:59.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="361" CreationDate="2015-03-23T20:29:59.177" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;I prefer to tape up my glue joints, then stain / poly / paint. After that, fix any finishing boo-boos, remove the tape, glue up, and you're good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This provides the benefit of getting stain and/or paint / finish in all the nooks and crannies, allows you to fix any drips or bobbles in the finish with everything laying flat, and if you do get some expansion around the joints, you're not presented with an unstained bit of wood showing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On edit: If I'm worried about glue coming out onto the finished surface during glue-up, I just place tape right next to the un-glued surface so that if glue squeezes out and I don't catch it, it's on tape, not finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T20:38:40.860" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T20:38:40.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="380" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-23T20:32:15.223" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Finishing a woodworking project refers to the final steps to beautify and protect it, such as staining, oiling, shellacking, varnishing, lacquering, painting, glazing, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This tag is one of several tags that can be used to identify the stages in a project's life the question is addressing.  Other useful phase tags include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;design, assembly, &amp;amp; installation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="192" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T18:01:10.313" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T18:01:10.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="381" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-23T20:32:15.223" Score="0" Body="Finishing a woodworking project refers to the final steps to beautify and protect it." OwnerUserId="192" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T18:01:10.313" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T18:01:10.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="319" CreationDate="2015-03-23T21:17:43.457" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your pallet board may not be worth the effort, but there are several techniques that you can try to salvage &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; warped board. The optimal solution will vary depending on how you intend to use the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood_warping&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; has a nice primer on specific types of defects in wood which fall under the blanket term of warping:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t3346.png&quot; alt=&quot;common types of wood warping&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;bow&lt;/strong&gt; : a warp along the length of the face of the wood&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;crook&lt;/strong&gt;: (also called wain) a warp along the length of the edge of the wood&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;kink&lt;/strong&gt;: a localized crook, often due to a knot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;cup&lt;/strong&gt;: a warp across the width of the face, in which the edges are higher or lower than the center of the wood&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;twist&lt;/strong&gt;: a distortion in which the two ends do not lie on the same plane&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your strategy for dealing with a warp will vary depending on the specific type and severity of the defect. For less severe defects, you may be able to simply make the lumber square, flat, and straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the best-case scenario, you joint one face and edge on the jointer, then rip the other edge parallel on the table saw and flatten the other face parallel with the first on the planer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, at each step along the way, you necessarily sacrifice some of the wood's thickness and/or width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A board could be so badly bowed or twisted that there wouldn't be anything left if you tried to joint it straight. But if the components of your project require shorter boards anyway, you can crosscut a bowed or twisted board into shorter pieces, each of which may be flat enough that it does not require much jointing and planing to make it flat and straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option with a bowed board is to either resaw it or cut it into shorter sections (depending on whether length or thickness is more important, respectively), laminate the pieces (glue them together, one on top another), then joint and plane them. Just be aware of any internal stresses that you may be adding to the finished board, and try to avoid a glue-up that requires massive amounts of clamping force to close up gaps between the boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a board with a crook or kink, you may be able to rip one edge straight, then trim and glue the offcuts onto the opposite side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your board is cupped, you have multiple options depending on whether it's more important to preserve the thickness or width of the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the cup is fairly shallow, you can joint and plane it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the cup is severe and simply jointing one face and planing the other parallel would make the board too thin, you can rip it into strips first. Each strip will have a less severe cup then the original board, so you can joint and plane the faces of each strip individually, then joint the edges and glue the strips back together into a panel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have some combination of defects, you may have to employ several strategies to get workable pieces of stock out of a warped board. Whichever strategies you use, make sure you are practicing safe techniques. Also beware of any internal stresses that may be released as you cut a warped board, as they can result in binding, fragmentation, and/or kickback depending on the tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, some defects are easier to remedy than others, and even once you've remedied the problem it may return depending on the properties of the board. It's good to be familiar with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-to/video/the-basics-of-flatsawn-riftsawn-and-quartersawn-wood.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;differences between quartersawn, plainsawn, and riftsawn boards&lt;/a&gt; and each type of cut's inherent movement properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T23:38:35.470" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T23:38:35.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="361" CreationDate="2015-03-23T22:25:12.317" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most people build and then finish (especially if the finish is applied by someone else). Assuming you are diligent, regarding cleaning up the glue as it is pressed out this works fairly well. However if the glue sets then true stains (that is something designed to be absorbed into the wood fibers) will not take to the area covered in glue. Usually, this is a tiny bit of surface which is ignored or covered in similar or slightly darker color of opaque finish or paint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For stains that are opaque (or not very transparent), a few extra coats will hide the offending area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For myself, when these approaches aren't enough I will finish the surfaces of the pieces to be glued together first and then glue them together. This implies you have decided on a finish and set of colors for the finished piece and this can be tricky if you are using the finishes to help different cuts of wood look similar. It also takes more time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another approach is to use a water soluble stain or dye (like Van Dyke Crystals) to color the wood, then glue and then apply see-though finish with little or no color like shellac or varnish. In this approach, the shellac will coat any glue you may have missed but the color will match the area without glue. The tricky part here, is not to sand through the finish and cut into the wood revealing an unstained area. The bonus is you can glue the stained wood without issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not had great luck with tape; there is a slight seam created where the glue fills the slight edge of the tape. It may not be noticeable at first glance, but it is easy to feel with your fingers. Having said that, I have not tried any of the new tapes available for painters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastEditorUserId="111" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T23:01:48.070" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T23:01:48.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="384" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="387" CreationDate="2015-03-24T00:48:35.360" Score="9" ViewCount="17688" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Janka_hardness_test&quot;&gt;Janka Hardness Test&lt;/a&gt; provides a scale for the hardness of woods. Toward the higher end, wood can be particularly difficult to drive screws into and even a pilot hole may not be adequate. Is there a good method for firmly setting screws into a work-piece without snapping the head?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Approximately where on the scale would these extra measures become necessary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T09:48:23.453" Title="Advice for setting screws in dense wood" Tags="|screws|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="385" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="391" CreationDate="2015-03-24T01:09:50.527" Score="19" ViewCount="21621" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I took wood working as a student, I learned to finish rough wood - cut it to rough size, joint it, plane it, rip and cross/cut on a table saw, etc.   As much as I'd love to own large versions of all these machines, it's not practical for the size of my home shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked around at my local home improvement store and none of the dimensional lumber was of the quality I'd want to use in a project like building children's furniture or enclosures for electronics projects - nothing looked straight or flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I expect when purchasing lumber to use in home wood working projects? Do most home wood workers buy rough material and use smaller machines to finish their wood, or should I expect to find a supplier who provides higher quality cut and finished lumber?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastEditorUserId="11" LastEditDate="2015-03-24T02:08:06.620" LastActivityDate="2021-04-15T01:59:37.473" Title="How do I shop for lumber to use in home wood working projects?" Tags="|lumber|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="384" CreationDate="2015-03-24T01:18:24.570" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cannot attest for at which point the woods hardness come into play but the type 17 (The type is describing the point) screw which was designed for quick penetration and can effectively remove the need for pilot holes. They are typically found in decking. I use them when I get my hard oak pallets as I have lost bits, nails and screws in that wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.nutty.com/assets/images/Type%2017%20Point.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;type 17 point&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Image for nutty.com&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you take a listen to a gentleman on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j-j0UE-LyP8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;YouTube&lt;/a&gt; he would suggest you use a bar of hand soap to lubricate the screw. The man in the video only talks about lubrication but in theory that should help prevent overheating which makes the screw more malleable and susceptible to breaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T01:18:24.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="384" CreationDate="2015-03-24T01:18:49.467" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your milage will vary.  I think it will depend on a lot of factors beyond the wood - type of screw used, screw head, method of driving them, temperature, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some ways to make it easier to drive and avoid snapping the screw are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Larger pilot hole&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Larger screw, if possible (with a larger pilot hole)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lubricate the screws - a bar of soap works well&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select a screw that does not cam out (slip out and strip the head) easily - robertson, torx, pozidriv&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose a screw made from a harder material - avoid brass&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use an impact driver to drive the screw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a screw with a higher number of threads per inch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastEditorUserId="11" LastEditDate="2015-04-01T00:01:25.400" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T00:01:25.400" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="388" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="412" CreationDate="2015-03-24T01:24:13.177" Score="16" ViewCount="50424" Body="&lt;p&gt;To give you an idea of scale, as it give context, I am referring to the roof of an open bird feeder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bbtHn.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently I make 3 holes that I drill perpendicular to where the two pieces meet. Getting a screw at that angle ends up removing a lot of wood and creating some ugly holes on both sides (Picture only shows one. I'm new at SketchUp).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case I suppose that strength is not an issue but I would hope to go for something other that just glue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there another way to try and join these two pieces securely without causing too much damage to the outside of the structure. I don't even know how I would do this from the bottom. Maybe with an odd shape of wood to match the angle of the roof?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2020-09-01T16:39:22.627" Title="Joining wood at an angle" Tags="|joinery|screws|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="388" CreationDate="2015-03-24T01:55:37.563" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use a pocket hole jig and place your screws on the underside of the roof, rather than the top. Glue is typically stronger than the wood itself, so strength shouldn't be an issue, for a project like this I would just use short screws to pull the boards together (like a clamp). I'm not sure I'd recommend this since you wouldn't have a lot of room to play with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you prefer securing from above, you could try putting an aluminum strip over the edge and screwing the strip down into either side of the roof after it's been glued, rather than screwing the halves together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to do what you're already doing, but glue some trim over the holes to hide them, with the bonus of looking a little fancier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet another option would be to use dowels or biscuits to reinforce the joint(See Steve's response). I think this is what I would go with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="180" LastEditDate="2015-03-26T04:41:14.360" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T04:41:14.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="390" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="468" CreationDate="2015-03-24T02:01:05.150" Score="19" ViewCount="28871" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the advantages of drilling a countersink rather than just trying to force the screw head past the plane of the wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are situations when you would or would not countersink?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T23:36:13.940" Title="What are the advantages of countersinking screws?" Tags="|screws|drilling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="385" CreationDate="2015-03-24T02:04:18.823" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It can very difficult to find wood that requires minimal milling, but it is possible. The tradeoff is that you may need to spend a lot of time searching through every board to find the one or two that are straighter than others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for wide, 4/4 (1&quot;) or thicker boards with few knots. These come from larger trees and are generally more stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at the end grain, ideally searching for quartersawn material where the wood grain is perpendicular to the face (wide side) of the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, the lumber used in construction is not suitable for fine woodworking without additional milling. Some home improvement stores also sell pre-glued panels and hardwood lumber (sometimes wrapped in plastic), but it usually costs significantly more than buying dimensional or rough-sawn lumber from a hardwood dealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do not have the tools to mill lumber on your own, call some local cabinet shops. Often they will sell you lumber and may even do some milling at little or no additional cost.  You can also buy your lumber directly from a local sawmill or hardwood dealer, and they will typically surface the lumber on 2 or more sides for a small additional charge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're tight on space, hand milling your lumber is always an option. If you prefer power tools, you may also want to consider looking into a combination jointer/thickness planer. Also, depending on what you're building, you may be able to build jigs to do most of your milling. A taper/straight-line rip jig will do the edge jointing, and you can build a separate jig to joint the faces of boards to about 6&quot; wide (assuming you have a 10&quot; table saw and can raise the blade to a little over 3&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also look into community shops and rental stores. If you live near a community college or university, they may have a wood shop with all the tools you need to mill your lumber. My local university offers daily or monthly options, and larger cities have MakerSpaces where you can buy a membership and use the equipment. There is also a Habitat for Humanity &quot;ReStore&quot; in a town near me which rents out all kinds of woodworking equipment (including table saws and planers), though you must first purchase an annual membership.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="11" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T03:49:49.160" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T03:49:49.160" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="385" CreationDate="2015-03-24T02:09:01.013" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get pre-planed/joined lumber for projects at stores like Home Depot, though the types of wood you will have access to are going to be limited. A friend of mine built a desk with this material and it turned out OK with no milling at all required. Note that this will be separate from dimensional lumber, you might have to ask the staff for guidance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lumber yards may also be able to provide the service as well, though the quality may be less than you would get by milling your own lumber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T02:09:01.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="390" CreationDate="2015-03-24T02:17:11.530" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can buy countersink bits for your drill or hand-driven countersinks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Countersinking helps you set all the screws to a consistent depth without any danger of splitting or denting the wood. The countersink provides a crisp circle around the screw head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Matt mentioned in his comment, you can buy self-countersinking screws which ream out some of the wood around the head as you set the screw. I've used some self-countersinking deck screws and still managed to split a few 2x4s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a deep enough countersink, you can also put plugs over the screw holes to cover up the screw heads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I want something to look nice or if I'm trying to use shorter screws than I should, I countersink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm just whipping something together or if I'm feeling lazy and don't want to chuck up one of my countersink bits into a drill, I don't use a countersink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-03-24T02:29:44.167" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T02:29:44.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="394" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="398" CreationDate="2015-03-24T04:22:23.180" Score="7" ViewCount="153" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was using a plug cutting bit for the first time on a project recently, and after drilling through once and having to dig the button out of the bit was a pain, so I opted to only drill partway through and remove the back end another way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first option was to use a thicknesser to sand off the last bit, but I got impatient and decided instead to put a sacrificial back on the board and run it across a tablesaw. This worked, but about 1/3 of the plugs wound up with chips knocked out by the teeth (perhaps I was just cutting in too far...). What is/are better way(s) to cut plugs with a plug cutting bit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T12:37:57.007" Title="Removing drilled plugs from a stock board" Tags="|plugs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="388" CreationDate="2015-03-24T04:36:31.107" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are open to changing the joinery, constructing the roof will let the screws be hidden and hold the parts a little more readily like in the picture below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EtiNE.png&quot; alt=&quot;bird house&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The overhang will help keep weather out of the joint as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-03-24T12:43:06.387" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T12:43:06.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="388" CreationDate="2015-03-24T13:06:20.277" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you'd like to go the glue-only route, a lock miter might be just the thing.  They are available as router bits and make a profile similar to this photo: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sFpoL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://valfortools.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/P10108741.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could not say for certain whether the angle is complimentary to your design, most lock miters I find are for 90 degree joints which might be a pretty severe angle for a roof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@Doresoom mentioned in the comments that 22.5 degree lock miters are also fairly common which would produce a 45/135 degree joint, which would provide more gentle of a slope for a roof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastEditorUserId="34" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T15:41:57.773" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T15:41:57.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="385" CreationDate="2015-03-24T13:22:15.297" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't have much space and/or you want to avoid noise and dust, you could use hand tools. Of course it is way longer but you can do everything you could do with machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not an expert myself but i usually buy some pretty good lumber and make them real flat with a handplane. With one good large handplane, you could do most of the job, although it's faster if you have 2 or 3 specialized handplanes that are ready for specific job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also use handplane only when the lumber are too big and complete with a small planner as in this video &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z4ch9px_ZHk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z4ch9px_ZHk&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T13:22:15.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="394" CreationDate="2015-03-24T13:36:26.723" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodworking.com/ww/Article/Installing-Wood-Plugs-7386.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; little helpful article.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important part was he had a thicker board, cut the plugs with his plug cutter (not going through), put a piece of tape across the top (over all the plugs) then on the band saw turned the blank with the plugs 90 degrees and cut off the bottom of the board, leaving all the plugs attached to the tape&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T13:36:26.723" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="399" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3536" CreationDate="2015-03-24T14:38:28.790" Score="9" ViewCount="1415" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought this Sorby hollowing tool (I just looked it up 2 years ago!) and I've never figured out how to use the dang thing.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cRZAT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There wasn't ANY instructions that came with it, not even how to put the different pieces together (though that wasn't terribly hard to figure out).  However, the tool that is supposed to be for creating an even thickness (the big semi-circle and touching the wood in the picture) does not seem to be as 'simple' to use as you would think.  The first problem is the end of that wire is sharp and will mark up the outside of the surface.  I generally finish one side then work on the other of a piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone can give me step-by-step instructions on how this is expected to work I would be grateful.  I spent a lot of money and a so far worthless tool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-03-02T20:14:06.507" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T20:14:06.507" Title="How do I use this hollowing tool?" Tags="|tools|turning|hollowing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="400" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="401" CreationDate="2015-03-24T15:10:46.767" Score="16" ViewCount="9636" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen some question/answers here refer to using quarter-sawn wood. I didn't know what that was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the other common ways to mill logs into lumber. This question is not about the cuts of lumber that result from this process but process itself. For more information about the resulting lumber and its application you can look here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/476/what-are-the-different-uses-for-plain-sawn-flat-sawn-rift-sawn-and-quarter-s&quot;&gt;What are the different uses for plain sawn (flat sawn), rift sawn, and quarter sawn boards?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T15:50:23.710" Title="What are the common cut patterns used to mill a log into boards?" Tags="|quarter-sawn|rift-sawn|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="400" CreationDate="2015-03-24T15:11:01.023" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;In its basic form quarter sawing is a method of processing logs into lumber. It is one of 3 common methods: quarter, plain/flat, and rift sawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7513/16209908942_236a56cbdf_o.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Different Cuts&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;Image from Flickr. &lt;strong&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt; that there are many other cuts that exist but still fit in same general categories&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Plain&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also known as bastard sawn, through and through, and tangent sawn. It the most common way to mill lumber and arguably the cheapest. The log orientation is not typically moved during this process. The widest boards are made in this way since you cut across the entire diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Rift&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rift or radially sawing produces the most consistent strength across all boards since each board is cut perpendicular to the grain. Commercially, it is not common as there is a lot of waste wood. Custom woodworkers milling their own logs may use this when making furniture, for example. Visually all the boards look &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; similar giving projects the same look and feel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Quarter&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quartersawn (quarter-sawn) or quartered sawn is with the rings 90 degrees to the face. The quartered sections are individually cut with not attempts to waste wood. The block can be rotated repeatedly so the saw will remove the wider portions of the quarter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;More Reading&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.advantagelumber.com/sawn-lumber/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Advantage Lumber&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quarter_sawing&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Quarter Sawing&lt;/a&gt;. Covers other cuts briefly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/get-more/wood-cuts-and-where-they-come&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Canadian Woodworking&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Important&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important to understand that, while named the same, the milling processes and resulting boards are two different things. It would be easier to say that each of the milling processes can yield boards of different types. There is confusion that stems from this. Quarter sawn has changed meaning over time:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/614Qa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Traditional vs. Modern&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more reading look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/476/what-are-the-different-uses-for-plain-sawn-flat-sawn-rift-sawn-and-quarter-s&quot;&gt;What are the different uses for plain sawn (flat sawn), rift sawn, and quarter sawn boards?&lt;/a&gt; for more explantion of the different milled boards and how to identify them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T15:50:23.710" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="385" CreationDate="2015-03-24T15:23:36.077" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Great question, Steve. I wish I'd had the wisdom to ask this before I got too into woodworking. I used to buy all my hardwood lumber at Home Depot for 4 times the cost! (I'm not exaggerating). Big box stores specialize in construction lumber so it's a very poor place to buy furniture-grade lumber. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I started shopping at a local hardwood dealer. (I'd do a search for hardwood dealers or lumber dealers in your area. If that doesn't work, you can always order online for marginally more expensive than what you could find locally). Most hardwood dealers offer &quot;surfaced and straight-lined&quot; lumber--meaning they surface both sides to be parallel and straight-line one side at 90 degrees. For several years, this was more than sufficient for my needs. The surfaces were almost perfectly flat and I just used my tuned up table saw to make the other edge straight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So that's what I'd recommend--find a local hardwood dealer that will surface and straight-line your lumber. Then all you need is a table saw (or even a bandsaw could work, provided you don't mind a few minutes of hand-planing). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually, however, you'll become a lumber snob and decide that the lumber yard's version of &quot;surfaced&quot; isn't up to par and you'll have to ask them to sell it to you &quot;in the rough&quot; and invest in the expensive tools for milling (i.e., jointer and planer). But, you'll probably have a few years, so start saving up! (Which will be a LOT easier now that you're not buying hardwoods from big box stores!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T15:23:36.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="403" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="404" CreationDate="2015-03-24T15:40:41.910" Score="8" ViewCount="904" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just built a table for my RAS using two pieces of 1/2&quot; MDF glued together. I plan on adding a sacrificial top to this using 1/4&quot; PLY. I am wondering what the best method for adhering this to the MDF would be if my plan is to replace it when it gets worn out.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SjAut.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;RAS with Table, PLY not attached.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen others use finishing nails to hold it in place. I am just concerned this will put many holes in my MDF, and not be the most secure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-01-12T14:12:52.457" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T14:12:52.457" Title="How can I securely attach a sacrificial top to my radial arm saw table?" Tags="|radial-arm-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="403" CreationDate="2015-03-24T15:50:48.967" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Welcome to stackexchange. I'm not exactly sure I understand your question, but I think I do. Have you considered attaching it with machine screws? Maybe you can attach/detach with wing nuts or star knobs? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've actually done something similar with my crosscut sled on my table saw. I have a piece of 1/4 in ply in the center where it meets the kurf. I switch it out when the blade deflects and no longer is a zero clearance slot. As long as the machine screws are far enough from the blade, you only have to cut a few holes once in the MDF (and of course, matching holes in the 1/4 ply) and you don't have to cut any more holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: Based on your comments, it sounds like you need a t-nut in the mdf side and a machine screw on the plywood side (countersunk in). Then you won't have any hardware getting in the way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastEditorUserId="3" LastEditDate="2015-03-24T17:53:27.597" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T17:53:27.597" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="405" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="420" CreationDate="2015-03-24T16:21:42.020" Score="10" ViewCount="285" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question might fall in a gray area between here and the DIY Stack Exchange site but I'm attaching it to cabinets so I'll post it here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you cope out the profile for a crown molding joint when the crown molding sticks out considerably like the one below? (To add to the complexity, this kind of molding has a hollow where the back would be.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wd61O.jpg&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="81" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2019-01-05T07:32:45.643" LastActivityDate="2019-01-05T07:32:45.643" Title="How to cope large molding joints?" Tags="|molding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="405" CreationDate="2015-03-24T16:29:16.293" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most expensive option is commissioning a router bit to make that cut in one pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However You can do this with multiple passes using a tilted router and a variety of bits. For some straight corners a few passes over a lowered table saw will do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://woodgears.ca/router_lift/molding.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This page has a nice collection of tips.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T16:29:16.293" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27" CreationDate="2015-03-24T16:54:04.760" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a week late to this question but I'll throw in a bit of my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hand sawing does involve much body mechanics as was previously described.  Assuming your shoulders are aligned and you're moving your arm as you should be, the only other thing that might make the saw wander off the cut line is misalignment of the teeth.  Otherwise known as the &quot;set&quot; of the teeth.  This is never a problem with new saws but is almost always an issue with something found at a flea market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sent on of my saw off to Matt Cianci once who sharpened and set the teeth and did a masterful job of it.  It was astounding how well the saw cut.  Since then, I have attempted it myself with another old saw with mixed success.  The last attempt was successful at getting the teeth all set properly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My point is that once the teeth are set properly and you have your arm swinging in line with the cut, the saw should track straight.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My favorite videos for learning this and other woodworking techniques are those in the YouTube channel of Paul Sellers.  He has a gift for explanation and demonstration.  He also has a paid video service which I have not tried yet.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T16:54:04.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="405" CreationDate="2015-03-24T17:10:03.147" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a great many websites and YouTube videos that have tutorials on how to install crown molding.  I've looked at a lot of them and tried to implement the skills in my own house.  Here is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2015/04/03/installing-crown-molding/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;my very favorite article&lt;/a&gt; along with a series of videos [youtube] &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's tricky because even the slightest irregularities in your joints are glaringly obvious.  As a result, I used a lot of caulk.  My brother-in-law is a former home builder and he assured me that caulk is our friend in this regard.  Still, I observed a few things that are not obvious from tutorials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It is pretty important to measure the angle of your walls (or&#xA;cabinets in this case) since if they are not square, you can at&#xA;least use one of the online charts and set your miter saw to the&#xA;appropriate angles to match that of your walls.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you do not have a powered miter saw (some call it a chop saw), then you will need to use a coping&#xA;    saw to cut the inside miters.  This again is a bit tricky because&#xA;    the slightest mistake is visible.  I found that my coping saw was of&#xA;    a pretty low quality and so bought one made by Olson.  It worked&#xA;    considerably better.  Realistically, it was the blades that worked&#xA;    better; they seemed sharper.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Any little irregularities in your wall will cause the molding to sit proud of the surface and cause gaps (edit:  I should point out that my walls are textured - smooth walls would not have this problem as much).  The best way I found of dealing with this was to go over the wall where the molding will sit with a putty knife to make sure it was smooth.  On cabinets, this will be less of an issue.  Then I placed the molding up and nailed it in the very center.  As I worked from the center to the miters in the corners, I could &quot;roll&quot; or &quot;twist&quot; the molding so that the miters would match up in the corners.  Basically, I was correcting any inaccuracies as I worked out from the center of the molding.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I read back over this, it seems a poor explanation of what I was doing but I can't think of how to improve it.  It is a very tactile thing and would be easy to demonstrate but is hard to describe.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Precision and accurate marking and measuring are key.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2015-04-19T20:26:54.813" LastActivityDate="2015-04-19T20:26:54.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="385" CreationDate="2015-03-24T17:24:04.760" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally have looked in my area for &quot;hardwood dealers&quot; as my Google search term.  This uncovered two that sell oak and walnut (occasionally cherry) where I live in Oklahoma.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also looked on craigslist.  This is not very fruitful for me but it can be for others - it depends a lot on where you live.  The one or two sellers I have found were both selling rough sawn lumber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you search for &quot;lumber&quot; in your area on Google and then eliminate the big-box stores, you may find that there are suppliers of building materials in your area that have much nicer hardwood. I have purchased red oak from local building material suppliers in my town in this way.  It was much nicer than the big-box wood in the sense that it warped less when I cut it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all cases, it is most likely that you will find only the most common woods like pine, oak, and maple.  Depending on where you live you may find other &quot;finer&quot; woods like cherry or walnut.  The last two almost always have to come from an actual hardwood dealer unless you just happen to know somebody who has a WoodMizer portable bandsaw mill that will have access to trees that have come down (for whatever reason).  The WoodMizer website allows you to search for owners in your area and they may recycle trees and be a source of local wood that you can buy.  This however would require you to stack it and dry it before using as well as requiring access to a truck or trailer to go get it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also purchased from WoodCraft since they have a store in my town.  They have a wide selection of wood but not a great deal of any one species; however, it has always been sufficient for my projects.  They will also surface it for you if you don't have a surface planer.  They say there is a minimal charge for this but I have never been charged - possibly since I usually only buy one or two boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, there are the online dealers that I have no direct experience with.  I am a fan of &lt;a href=&quot;http://thewoodwhisperer.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Wood Whisperer&lt;/a&gt; and he has a paid site where the members will build a project together.  He arranges for the students to purchase their wood online from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bellforestproducts.com/?utm_source=bing&amp;amp;utm_medium=cpc&amp;amp;utm_term=bell%20forest%20products&amp;amp;utm_content=Bell%20Forest%20Products%20(BM%20P)&amp;amp;utm_campaign=Search%20-%20Brand%20-%20USA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bell Forest Products&lt;/a&gt;. He speaks highly of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T17:24:04.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="410" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="413" CreationDate="2015-03-24T17:32:49.180" Score="9" ViewCount="812" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had some speaker baffles cnc'ed and it looks like there is a mistake in either the drawing or the actual machining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to increase the diameter of the outside step by about 1/8&quot; not the through hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the best method to accomplish this. The material is MDF. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is an image of the speaker and the hole.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S9OG6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="198" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T17:55:05.653" Title="Enlarging a stepped through hole" Tags="|mdf|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="411" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="564" CreationDate="2015-03-24T17:34:39.610" Score="8" ViewCount="254" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'm looking for a wood, but not sure which species would apply to what I'm looking for. Ideally, I would like a wood that is easy to carve by hand, but has a good color/grain and would take a burn well. I've been looking at cherry, but I'm not so sure how well it take pyrography. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="82" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-06-19T01:30:11.113" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T01:30:11.113" Title="Easy to carve wood that takes a burn well" Tags="|wood-selection|wood|pyrography|carving|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="388" CreationDate="2015-03-24T17:38:07.367" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;A biscuit joint would allow you to join these pieces without any screws while providing more strength than a joint where only the faces are glued together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jZJM1m.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Biscuit joint&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically you require a special tool, a biscuit joiner to cut the hole but it can be done by hand too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A similar but simpler method is to just drill holes and use a dowel instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastEditorUserId="11" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T11:51:40.717" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T11:51:40.717" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="410" CreationDate="2015-03-24T17:46:04.083" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few different options, but I would use a router with a pattern bit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a router, circle-cutting jig, and straight bit to cut a template out of hardboard, plywood, or MDF with a hole of the exact size you want the outer circle to be&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Center the template around the existing hole and tape, clamp, or screw it in place&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a pattern bit set to the same depth as the existing outer circle to trim away the extra 1/8&quot;. The pattern bit's bearing runs along the template while the cutting edge trims the speaker box's outer circle flush with the template.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also do the same thing with a guide bushing and straight bit, but this is slightly more complicated because you need to make your template slightly oversized to account for the gap between the bit and the guide bushing's outside edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-03-24T17:55:05.653" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T17:55:05.653" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="410" CreationDate="2015-03-24T17:46:33.367" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is a straight cutting router bit with a bearing on the bottom. If you're lucky, the distance from the inside hole to where you want it to be will be of a size that there's a bit for. (Bad grammar aside.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, you could cut a template in hardboard (we used to call it masonite, but I'm not sure what the commercial name is) and use a bushing collar on a router with the corresponding straight-cutting bit. The masonite acts as a template for the collar to ride around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do this second method, then centering the template becomes critical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T17:46:33.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="388" CreationDate="2015-03-24T19:39:52.823" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=69788&amp;amp;cat=1,41182&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;plow plane&lt;/a&gt;, you can quickly and easily make a groove and tongue joint like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/olFEtm.png&quot; alt=&quot;tongue and groove&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want more stability, you can make that a dovetail, either starting from the groove and tongue or using hand saw and chisel only (or, well, a milling table!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tongue or dovetail should be perpendicular to the miter like so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OyPEwm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Dovetail tongue and groove&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course a groove with loose tongue or biscuits are possible (and easier to manufacture) too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="135" LastEditorUserId="11" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T03:31:00.490" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T03:31:00.490" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="287" CreationDate="2015-03-24T19:58:13.313" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For turning something like a bowl, a chuck (with a screw center) is a bit more efficient. You can mount the bowl blank with the bottom of the (to be) bowl facing out on a screw held in the chuck, and turn a recess on what will eventually be the foot of the bowl. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once that's done and the outside of the bowl is shaped, you can turn the blank around, remove the screw, and mount the blank the other way with the jaws expanding into the recess you cut into the bottom, which allows you to hollow the inside. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a faceplate, you have to make a jam chuck and / or use a lot of scrap wood making waste blocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T19:58:13.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="417" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="419" CreationDate="2015-03-24T20:34:44.520" Score="14" ViewCount="4528" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems that every few months, I've broken all my pilot hole drill bits because they're so easy to break (and so frequently used). So, every few months, I buy a whole new pack of drill bits and throw away everything in the pack above 1/8 inch or so (since my bigger drill bits are still in working condition). And then again, I attempt to drill gently, but inevitably, several months later, all my small drill bits break.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone else have this problem? If so, what are potential solutions. Perhaps...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there a place that you know of that sells only the small drill bits (preferably the ones with a 1/4 in hex chuck)? I hate to keep tossing the bigger bits.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone found a method of drilling through hardwoods that won't break drill bits over time?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Anything else that I'm missing?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastEditorUserId="3" LastEditDate="2015-03-24T20:52:57.963" LastActivityDate="2017-02-21T20:03:47.430" Title="Replacing small drill bits without buying new sets (or preventing breaks)" Tags="|drilling|drill-bits|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="65" CreationDate="2015-03-24T20:38:19.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may seem silly but I'll include it.  I had a large amount of cherry chips from my surface planer and I attempted to use it to smoke meat.  Cherry is so expensive where I live that I did not want to waste a single molecule of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sadly, it is no good for this application.  I suppose it could be done but my box of chips smoked only briefly before having to be replaced.  It was more trouble that it was worth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T20:38:19.597" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="417" CreationDate="2015-03-24T20:43:38.857" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, small drill bits can break easily.  Some manufacturers offer &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.harborfreight.com/1-16-inch-high-speed-steel-titanium-nitride-drill-bits-7-pack-93076.html&quot;&gt;multi-packs&lt;/a&gt; of a single size drill bit. Multi-packs are also available for &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B002PEFROS&quot;&gt;1/4&quot; hex shank bits&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some high-end drill bits are more durable. Recently at The Woodworking Shows I also saw a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i6YMfCVaBFg&quot;&gt;demonstration&lt;/a&gt; by a drill bit vendor drilling through files and brake rotors. First he drilled through with a larger bit, then he used a small bit and flexed it all different directions--I was pretty sure the bit was going to snap, but it didn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-03-24T20:49:52.650" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T20:49:52.650" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="405" CreationDate="2015-03-24T21:24:04.273" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't installed crown molding myself but it sounds like coping the joints is an alternative to cutting bevels on both pieces of molding on a miter saw. Coping can give you a better fit than a miter joint because walls are often textured and aren't always perfectly square to one another, making for a sloppy fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.familyhandyman.com/carpentry/trim-carpentry/how-to-cope-joints/view-all&quot;&gt;Family Handyman&lt;/a&gt; outlines a process whereby you butt the first piece all the way into the corner. After that you cut an initial bevel on the second piece using your miter saw to reveal the profile, then use a coping saw to clear out the profile and fine-tune the fit with a file and/or sandpaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-03-24T21:29:53.770" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T21:29:53.770" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="421" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-25T00:12:54.577" Score="11" ViewCount="5449" Body="&lt;p&gt;I make small hand-craft timber products from my garage and I've recently been approached by a wholesaler, who is looking to purchase large quantities of a very simple product I make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The product is made of pine and is a 300mm long piece of 2x2 with 3x30mm evenly-spaced holes drilled though the timber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyhow, my question is given I have to make 5000 of these small products, what would be the best/most efficient/productive method of drilling 15,000 30mm holes? And also what drill piece would you recommend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="200" LastEditorUserId="200" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T01:21:29.920" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T16:43:23.030" Title="Best method for drilling thousands of holes?" Tags="|drilling|pine|drill-bits|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="421" CreationDate="2015-03-25T00:26:42.093" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can find multiple spindle drill press attachments which may suit your purpose. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hypneumat.com/multi-spindleheads.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.hypneumat.com/multi-spindleheads.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;More expensive models are adjustable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.drill-n-tap.com/multi-spindle-drill-heads-for-drilling-and-tapping/selection-of-adjustable-multiple-spindle-heads/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;This store&quot;&gt;This page&lt;/a&gt; has some adjustable models as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;edit&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Rather than Forstner bits I would go with auger or spade bits. They will handle the deep cut faster. The trouble is that they have tearout. To handle that, you can drill partway through then flip the piece over and drill from the other side. This may be difficult if you don't have your jig perfectly centered. You can drill until the spur comes through, then align the other side with that hole to finish the bore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you can use some sacrificial stock under the piece. This will prevent the wood fibers from moving vertically. If you're making repetitive bores, you shouldn't need to replace the stock, since the holes will always be in the same place and will still prevent the fibers from moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="180" LastEditDate="2015-03-27T04:27:39.130" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T04:27:39.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="421" CreationDate="2015-03-25T01:11:22.340" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you set on manufacturing these yourself?  Because really, &quot;best and most efficient&quot; is to get a company with either large industrial machines or low cost labour to manufacturer this part for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're limited to a standard drill (hand drill, drill press, etc.) then you're going to get the most efficiency by stacking the parts so that you can drill multiple parts in one pass.  The longer the drill bit and the larger the press, the more you can do at the same time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Multiple spindle drills, as Daniel suggests, will give you another big bump in efficiency. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also scale up with people.  A couple friends and a few cases of beer might go a long way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also factor in that you will likely need to produce more than 5000 as your yield probably won't be 100% - some will get damaged, holes will be misaligned, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets say you can drill 3 boards at a time with a standard drill (one hold), and 3 friends (4 people in total). You now need to each drill 1,250 holes.  If you can drill 2 holes a minute (I'm just guessing here) you need 625 minutes or almost 10.5 hours each to complete this.  That is only a day or two of work, just for the holes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T01:11:22.340" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="424" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="432" CreationDate="2015-03-25T04:51:45.917" Score="9" ViewCount="185" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have a shop. My reclaimed wood and what little lumber I have are stored in my shed which doubles as workshop and yard storage. As such it is subject to winter and while it is protected from the elements it is affected by temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I not build anything with these materials while they are cold? I might be building &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; simple cabinets in my mudroom for storage in the near future. Don't want temperature to be a factor that will warp the design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bring the materials indoors to give them time to warm up to room temperature before assembly possibly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2017-02-01T05:46:57.073" LastActivityDate="2017-02-01T05:46:57.073" Title="Considerations using lumber stored outside" Tags="|pallet|lumber|storage|reclaimed-wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="425" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="447" CreationDate="2015-03-25T05:06:19.500" Score="13" ViewCount="18312" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/412/128&quot;&gt;good answer&lt;/a&gt; from my question on joinery talked about using a biscuit joiner. While this is a great idea a biscuit joiner is not in my top 5 of tools to acquire. I do have a variety of, recently inherited, hand tools that may do the job.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The poster mentions in passing that this can be done by hand. Googling this has either&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.ca/search?q=hand+make+biscuit+wood&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;biw=1920&amp;amp;bih=1085&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=7j8SVfnQF6K1sAT-7oH4CA&amp;amp;ved=0CAYQ_AUoAA&amp;amp;dpr=1#q=hand+make+biscuit+cut&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Led me astray with cooking suggestions&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Showed me how to actually make the biscuits&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the power tool itself&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have tips or suggestions on how to make biscuit cuts by hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2021-05-15T10:32:47.483" Title="Making biscuits cuts by hand" Tags="|joinery|hand-tools|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="421" CreationDate="2015-03-25T08:56:24.350" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most basic step is making a jig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clamp the jig to your drill press table and you can just put in the blank press it up against the stops and drill down and put the piece on the result pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also center-punch the holes before drilling. This will help align the drill bit to where the hole should go. Put some wood screws through a piece of scrap wood (with a little protruding on the other side) with the same spacing as the holes should be and tap it onto the blanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the bit I suggest a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drill_bit#Forstner_bits&quot;&gt;forstner type drill bit.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T12:27:00.393" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T12:27:00.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="320" CreationDate="2015-03-25T09:27:33.807" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will try the method from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCjA8vRlL1c7BDixQRJ39-LQ&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;John Heisz YouTube channel&quot;&gt;John Heisz&lt;/a&gt; with diamond file when my saw blade will be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HVxHa-4X2YQ&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Sharpening A Carbide Saw Blade By Hand&quot;&gt;Video link here&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k7ARi.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastEditorUserId="35" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T09:41:43.780" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T09:41:43.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="425" CreationDate="2015-03-25T10:37:58.007" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Biscuit joint is a plunge-cut mortise in both sides of the joint with a &quot;biscuit&quot; inserted to align and provide glue surface area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A purpose built biscuit joiner uses a small circular saw blade plunged into the wood. You can instead use a router with a groove cutting bit and a template to push the guide-bearing or base-plate against.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biscuits themselves can be made on a band-saw from appropriately thin stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T10:54:52.550" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T10:54:52.550" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="394" CreationDate="2015-03-25T12:37:57.007" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's been quite a while since I've used my plug cutters, but I always cut them longer (deeper) than needed, then just used a flat-blade screwdriver to pop them out. I don't recall whether prying with or across the grain worked best, but it should only take 2 tries to figure it out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may tear up the bottom a bit, but you put that in the hole and nobody notices, or you put the nice flat end in the hole and sand down the rough edge left sticking out. Either way, you'll probably have to sand flush. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T12:37:57.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="430" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="437" CreationDate="2015-03-25T12:49:31.907" Score="11" ViewCount="29652" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the easiest and best way to remove nails from old pallets so as to not damage the wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking along the lines of using a hammer to drive a flat head screw driver in there and prying them away.&#xA;Any one with a more professional suggestion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T13:00:21.430" LastActivityDate="2020-09-15T10:56:41.050" Title="What is the best way to remove nails from pallets?" Tags="|pallet|nails|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="320" CreationDate="2015-03-25T12:50:50.340" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is another method from the always-interesting Mathias Wandel.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gCuHg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Jig summary&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://woodgears.ca/table_saw/sharpening_jig.html&quot;&gt;Mathias's jig&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T13:05:50.650" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T13:05:50.650" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="424" CreationDate="2015-03-25T12:56:32.300" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would certainly worry about assembly in the cold, and anything you are going to glue needs to be above 50F for the glue to work properly anyway.  Moisture is the bigger worry, and in the northern climes winter is pretty dry, add cold to that and you are looking at issues when the project warms up and is exposed to more moisture.  So yes, I would recommend assembly in a warmer place after the parts have warmed to ambient temps.  If you are assembling them in the room they will stay that is even better, and letting them sit for a week to normalize the moisture content even more so.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T12:56:32.300" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="258" CreationDate="2015-03-25T13:00:38.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with the statement that an active woodworker could really make use of both a dedicated jointer and surface planer.  But I only have a surface planer due to my very small workspace and I have made-do with hand tools for jointing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is due to the fact that most of my work involves typical boards that are 3/4&quot; thick and a few inches wide.  To joint the edge, I will run a Stanley #7 hand plane over the edge (this length of hand plane is called a &quot;jointer&quot; - I think it's 20 inches long).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I need to flatten one face (which is very rare - only if I have a rough-sawn board), then I can still get it flat with the hand planes.  I use a combination of a Stanley #5 and the aforementioned #7.  The #5 is fitted with a cambered blade which removes wood more aggressively.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One those occasions when I need to use a jointer to ensure a square cross section (such as glueing up several pieces to make a square bed post), I still use the hand planes and just get it as close as I can.  I check frequently with a square.  In my bed project, it was never all that important that I get the angle perfect; once things were together, the gaps closed up fine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To have had a dedicated jointer would have been nice and, as an engineer, I would have felt good about having perfect 90 degree angles all around, but in the end it worked out fine that I was simply close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T13:00:38.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="425" CreationDate="2015-03-25T13:00:52.177" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you aren't going to buy a biscuit joiner for making the cuts, an alternate that is easy, is to 'tongue and groove'.  Run the board over a table saw or use a router bit to make 1/8&quot; or 1/4&quot; grooves centered along the place you want to join, then cut a strip the same thickness and slightly less than the width of the two cuts added together.  Glue it all up and it will be much stronger than biscuits, the biscuits are a faster easier way to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T13:15:06.913" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T13:15:06.913" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="435" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-25T13:03:53.053" Score="8" ViewCount="1185" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I was considering my bench dog question (&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/294/can-one-install-bench-dog-holes-in-soft-surfaces-like-mdf-or-softwoods&quot;&gt;linked here&lt;/a&gt;) I had a thought and I'm wondering if it is realistic.  The problem that I am most concerned about with bench dogs in a workbench made of MDF is the inevitable ripping out of the bench dog holes in the MDF.  So, the thought process goes, if I were to eliminate MDF as the top of the table, I could have holes that won't tear out while still being able to enjoy a thick but inexpensive workbench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MDF is generally cheap where I am located, but hardwoods are somewhat expensive if buying from the big box stores.  Could I conceivably make a 1&quot; thick oak or maple panel, then sandwich in between several sheets of MDF, then perhaps cap the top with an additional 1&quot; maple panel?  My assumption would be that the layers would be glued together, but I'm curious whether this idea would be even remotely stable for a workbench I'd expect to last a long time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T19:20:51.690" Title="Would sandwiching MDF between two layers of hardwood make an acceptable workbench table?" Tags="|workbench|hardwood|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="430" CreationDate="2015-03-25T13:06:28.680" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clawfoot hammer works just fine. Failing that a pair of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pincers_%28tool%29&quot;&gt;pincers&lt;/a&gt;, pinch the nail as close to the wood as possible and then move front and back around the contact surface of the claws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big problem is getting a grip on the nail heads especially when they are in deep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can pry the boards apart by inserting a lever between them and wiggling. This way you can separate the boards entirely and hammer the nails out from the other side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T13:14:40.337" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T13:14:40.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="430" CreationDate="2015-03-25T13:21:17.147" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is one thing I'm proficient at its pallet teardown. You have lots of options. It does all depend on the style of pallet you are working with and it some cases its wood composition (hard, soft, pine, oak.....).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.albionpallets.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/Pallet-Types.png&quot; alt=&quot;Pallet Styles&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5JWiz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5JWiz.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For argument sake lets say you are not using the close boarded types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Just a hammer&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some pallets rely on gravity to hold them together. Putting the pallet up on its side and hitting boards from the bottom can also work. This is truer for staple assembled boards but it can work. Also helps if there is a block of wood to absorb the direct impact and distribute the force more evenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Pallet Wrecking Bar.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some of the more open pallet styles a great way to save as much wood as possible is to use a pallet wrecker tool. You can &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Pallet-Breaker/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;make your own&lt;/a&gt; and there are several now that are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cargo-cycles.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;commercially available&lt;/a&gt;. They all work on the same principal. I had a welder make one for me with some spare angle and square iron I had lying around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g8Zuc.png&quot; alt=&quot;Pallet breaker tool&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your searched you can find plenty of variations of this tool. This works great at putting even pressure as close to the nails as possible to pry the board away from the pallet. &lt;strong&gt;Super Important&lt;/strong&gt; make sure if you use something like this that you pry the board from the outside then the middle else you risk a board flying towards your face (&lt;em&gt;seriously&lt;/em&gt;. I have smacked my face a couple of times thinking it wouldn't happen). Also, its hard to describe but you need to be sure you place your body on top of the pallet to counter the force you will be putting on it while you use a bar. You want the pallet, minus the board you are removing, to be immobile as much as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Using Weighted Blocks&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I made my own tool I used the technique from this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O7oWaRPpdKU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt;. It involves raising the pallet off the ground and resting a block of sorts under the board you are trying to remove. Then, dropping a large heavy object beside that board to push the pallet down thereby raising the board that was propped. &lt;strong&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt;: Your need to be very careful with your back doing this as there is a lot of heavy lifting. LIFT WITH YOUR KNEES!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Referencing the picture below you can see the brick underneath the board to be removed. The large block of concrete will be dropped on the smaller brick on top of the pallet (&lt;em&gt;beside&lt;/em&gt; the board to be removed). That brick prevents the concrete block from damaging the pallet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uOXCI.png&quot; alt=&quot;Man with block&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Tools to have on hand regardless&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Mostly because you will have nails left over somewhere&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Long pry bar&lt;/strong&gt;: Removing nails from runners and stringers is much easier if you have more leverage. I use a 5 foot pry bar and they pop right out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vicegrips&lt;/strong&gt;: For when you have stubborn nails or if you pop the heads off when trying to remove them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Crescent Impact Nail Puller&lt;/strong&gt;: Another approach for stubborn nails. Very likely with hardwood pallets.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Saw Horses&lt;/strong&gt;: Might seem obvious but if you manage to get boards of clean nails can come with them. Using a hammer and some sawhorses is nicer to your back.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Cop out.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the quality of the boards and how &amp;quot;nail happy&amp;quot; the assembler was lots of people just use a circular saw for the outside (close to the runner or stringer) to get the boards out. Still have to address the nails in the middle using one of the above methods. Your yield will be shorter boards but your risk for splits and cracks goes to null.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This video boasts easy pallet disassembly by just using a reciprocating saw to cuts the nails out entirely. This would leave nails in the stringers and boards so you need be careful of the next tools you use with that wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=211rNoWrZ-Y&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=211rNoWrZ-Y&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2020-09-15T10:56:41.050" LastActivityDate="2020-09-15T10:56:41.050" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="430" CreationDate="2015-03-25T13:24:27.997" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a good video showing how to get nails out that have pulled through the slats and are stuck in the inner runners (which is a common problem). He suggests gripping the hammer in a vise and using the superior leverage of the long piece of wood itself to pull the nails. He also suggests hitting the nail head once with the hammer before pulling to break the adhesive that is often found on these nails. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iszNusNVJ2k&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Izzy Swan's video on removing pallet nails&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is one of many videos by Izzy Swan.  Here is a list of his videos just on the subject of pallet wood.  He has many more on a variety of woodworking projects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=izzy%20swan%20pallet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Izzy Swan's pallet projects&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T15:18:39.230" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T15:18:39.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="435" CreationDate="2015-03-25T13:29:25.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would guess that if you put a hard wood top on the bench it would be enough, that would be the place that would take the most abuse and you would then minimize it.  If you are worried about the bottom, then attach a 6&quot; board along the bottom aligned with the holes, this would minimize your hardwood needs.  If you REALLY want to minimize them, just have a 6&quot; wide board on the top too, and level it off with MDF, but I think having a hardwood top is great soo...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T13:29:25.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="440" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="441" CreationDate="2015-03-25T13:58:59.957" Score="15" ViewCount="5829" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got a router and a set of &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0000225YX&quot;&gt;Freud carbide router bits&lt;/a&gt;. I had a friend tell me that he sharpens his bits after every use. So I have a few closely related questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How often should I sharpen my router bits? Is it really necessary to do it after every time I use them?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What tool do I use? I could see a generic sharpening stone being difficult to use with complex bit shapes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As a follow up to what sharpening tool, can you describe a safe and effective technique for using it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastEditorUserId="38" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T14:28:27.457" LastActivityDate="2017-05-02T12:59:44.517" Title="How and when should I sharpen my router bits?" Tags="|sharpening|router|router-bit|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="440" CreationDate="2015-03-25T14:16:08.097" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never sharpened my router bits (they are all the nice ones with the carbide cutters). However, pitch will develop on them after some use. I just use a bit cleaning solution I got from Woodcraft (I am sure you can use cheaper alternatives with the same result) and a brass brush to clean the pitch off. Make sure you use a brass brush and not a steel brush as the brass won't damage the cutters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="189" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T15:24:58.833" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T15:24:58.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="435" CreationDate="2015-03-25T14:36:29.130" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Exterior doors for homes are &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=solid+mdf+door&amp;amp;ie=utf-8&amp;amp;oe=utf-8#q=solid+mdf+exterior+door&quot;&gt;made out of MDF&lt;/a&gt; with a lot less than a one inch hard wood veneer.  It is reasonable to expect your table design would hold up to normal work bench usage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better choice might be to rescue some used hardwood flooring. Not the engineered type that is sold new today, but the kind from the 1950's and earlier that really was solid hard wood.  You should be able to find it advertised locally or at used house parts store. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T14:36:29.130" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="444" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-25T14:53:15.770" Score="7" ViewCount="19256" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for what equipment I need to start a minimal shop that will eventually be making nice cabinets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no preference for power tools versus hand tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already have a cheap contractor's table saw, a drill, and some screwdrivers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="107" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T15:23:56.697" LastActivityDate="2017-07-16T17:49:47.220" Title="What tools do I need to start making cabinets?" Tags="|tools|shop|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="444" CreationDate="2015-03-25T15:01:34.420" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is what I started with. I kept my eye on craigslist and garage and estate sales for a lot of my tools which worked well for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not an expert cabinet maker, but on the few that i made, I used a router a lot for dado's and edge profiles. Also a basic set of chisels and a block plane are useful and can be had fairly cheaply. Even if you get these cheap at a garage sale they can usually be brought back to life with a little elbow grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A joiner and planer will be very useful once you can make that leap. I got my 'yellow' planer from the blue big box store and it has served me well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could go on for a while, but I am at risk of being long winded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="189" LastEditorUserId="34" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T15:37:17.870" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T15:37:17.870" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="444" CreationDate="2015-03-25T15:06:55.737" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hmmm.  Where to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While a cheap contractors table saw 'can' do a lot if you're willing to work at it, a full sized table saw will be much better, and a cabinet saw would be best.  If you are using sheet material you'll either need to make a special table to help you cut or have an extra pair of hands to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clamps, Clamps, Clamps, you can never have enough clamps and all sizes are needed...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need things to smooth the wood.  be that powered jointers and planers or several hand planes.  Lots of sand paper, and getting Orbit sanders and belt sanders can help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You already have a drill and screw drivers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need a hammer, a rubber mallet can be (mostly) substituted with a regular hammer and a piece of scrape wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That will let you muddle through many projects, after that it would be more based on what projects you specifically want and how you would like to build them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T15:06:55.737" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="425" CreationDate="2015-03-25T15:54:06.437" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;One hand tool that I found that &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; do this is a router plane. A good looking example comes from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=52609&amp;amp;cat=1,41182,48945&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lee Valley&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6LEWb.png&quot; alt=&quot;Lee valley&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T15:59:51.973" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T15:59:51.973" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="444" CreationDate="2015-03-25T15:58:56.937" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This an iceberg of a topic - it's a difficult question to address in a short space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a downloadable PDF from Popular Woodworking magazine that introduces an occasional theme called &amp;quot;I Can Do That&amp;quot;.  This PDF has a list of what tools to start with and how to pick them. These are mostly hand tools (i.e., powered hand tools) but the text covers quite a bit of background and how to think about what you want to do and what you might need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/ICDTBookHiResJune10.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;I Can Do That&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may not answer you question completely but it's worth a read.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T15:58:56.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="421" CreationDate="2015-03-25T16:17:29.810" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key to efficiency will not be how many parts you can stack, but rather, how quickly you can set up the next part for drilling. Set up a fixture with appropriate stops so it only takes a second to pull out the current part and drop the next one in and have it perfectly aligned. Group your parts into manageable batches (as Jasper suggested in a comment). Set up the stops to drill one hole on every part in the batch, then set up the stops for drilling the next hole in each part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should use a high-quality carbide-tipped Forstner bit for faster drilling, but as always be certain to back the drill out periodically to clear the chips/shavings and reduce heat buildup. Consider adding a strategically-positioned vacuum to clear shavings as you drill. A hole saw will be too slow since you'll have to pry out the core after each hole. A hole saw also wouldn't work very well if you need to make a stopped hole. You could also use a spade bit, twist bit, or (as Daniel suggested in a comment) an auger bit. Regardless of which bit you use, it goes without saying that you should use a sacrificial backer board to prevent blowout on the back side. It's also a good idea to drill from both sides rather than drilling all the way through, but you may find that with the backer board you can drill all the way through just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a powerful enough drill press and a multi-spindle head that's capable of drilling 3 holes at a time, as Daniel suggests, (either all 3 in a single board, or 3 boards lined up next to each other), you can cut your time by about 66%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-03-27T16:43:23.030" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T16:43:23.030" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="450" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="452" CreationDate="2015-03-25T16:19:22.100" Score="11" ViewCount="175" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some manufacturers offer packaged &quot;wood finishing cloths&quot;. I've always used old towels, old shirts, or paper towels both for applying certain finishes as well as when wiping off excess. Do &quot;wood finishing cloths&quot; offer much advantage over using whatever is relatively clean and laying around for either of these applications?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-03-26T17:09:58.930" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T03:43:19.520" Title="Are there advantages to using packaged wood finishing cloths instead of old towels and shirts?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="451" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="453" CreationDate="2015-03-25T16:30:35.473" Score="17" ViewCount="1170" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have only recently moved into a new house with an attached two-car garage. I am also starting to make a fair bit of dust working on projects in the garage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tools I am using include handsaws, a circular saw, drills, a 13&quot; planer and a radial arm saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current method is to work on a project then use a wet/dry utility vacuum to clean everything up afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would like to mitigate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A standing layer of dust on everything in the garage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A clogged up utility vacuum&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An unhealthy workspace&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen a couple recommendations online, such as a cyclone dust collector which I believe goes after the tool, before the vacuum. Also I have seen DIY air cleaners using box fans and furnace filters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not wish to spend a ton of money, but at the same time I do want a good system for a hobbyist/prosumer that will prevent the above concerns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13" LastEditorUserId="13" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T16:37:51.830" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T13:16:58.803" Title="What sort of dust collection system would be adequate for a two-car garage?" Tags="|dust-collection|shop|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="450" CreationDate="2015-03-25T16:32:03.117" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used both and haven't seen any real advantage to the manufactured ones. In fact, I seem to get better mileage out of my polyurethane by using a bit of old sweatpants material cut and sewn into a tube. It fits my fingers well, holds more finish before having to re-apply to the rag, and the outside doesn't deposit lint; it's convenient, and seems to use less finish than the manufactured fabrics since you're not soaking the whole rag, just the surface area you're using to wipe with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="180" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T17:56:06.013" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T17:56:06.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="451" CreationDate="2015-03-25T16:36:50.933" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's two things to consider here: how much the machine throws dust all over the place, and how good dust collection is at the source. The circular saw and RAS are both going to throw dust with a fairly high velocity, and neither have good dust collection mechanisms. You could build one for the circ saw (as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yRQaF2R4UcA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Jay Bates&lt;/a&gt; did for his circ saw) or a &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/hjt/blog/38727&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;dust shroud&lt;/a&gt; for the RAS. For the planer, dust collection tends to be pretty good (at least in my experience when using a dust-collector). So as long as you're sucking chips at the source, you should be good to go. But even if it was so-so, the chips are big enough that they are easy to track down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I'd recommend a couple things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get a chip separator for your shop vac. You can easily &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodcraft.com/Articles/Articles.aspx?articleid=408&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;make one yourself&lt;/a&gt; or purchase a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B002JP315K&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;dust deputy&lt;/a&gt;. This will keep your filter from getting clogged and improve performance. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Attach a furnace filter to a fan (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://smg.photobucket.com/user/irnsrgn/media/wood/aircleaner02.jpg.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; image from photobucket), which it sounds like you're doing. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a leaf blower to clear out the thick layer of dust. I actually do this daily to keep my garage clean. (At least it will work well during the summer).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You might want to invest in a dust collector. There are some fairly inexpensive options out there. I've bought the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.harborfreight.com/2-hp-industrial-5-micron-dust-collector-97869.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Harbor Freight model&lt;/a&gt; and am quite happy with it (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f24/harbor-freight-2-hp-dust-collector-31876/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;as are others&lt;/a&gt;).  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastEditorUserId="3" LastEditDate="2015-03-26T20:25:58.153" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T20:25:58.153" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="454" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-25T17:18:41.980" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many types of abrasives used in sanding and they can be used in many different ways, but all sanding is a way of shaping and smoothing wood with an abrasive-faced sheet material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sandpaper is the generic term used for sanding material, and it is often based on paper. But the term may also be extended to mean cloth-backed and film-backed abrasives, as well as to screen-type material such as Abranet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T18:49:04.517" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T18:49:04.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="455" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-25T17:18:41.980" Score="0" Body="Using abrasives to smooth or shape wood. Techniques, recommendations " OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T18:49:04.517" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T18:49:04.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="456" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-25T17:23:15.590" Score="11" ViewCount="2492" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a bunch of cabinets out of 3/4&quot; plywood.  The corners are beveled so there's no ugly plywood &quot;end grain&quot; showing in the joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the joint looks fantastic, I'm concerned that the thin plywood veneer will dent and deform easily on this corner.  Since it's veneered plywood, I also can't round the corner at all to discourage denting.  What is the best way to protect this corner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will varnish or some other sort of finish help?  Perhaps one of those clear plastic &quot;sheet rock corner&quot; protectors?  Or, am I overreacting, and just need to accept that dents will happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="204" LastEditorUserId="204" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T22:01:57.453" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T14:11:13.123" Title="Unobtrusive ways to protect plywood corners?" Tags="|finish|physical-protection|durability|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="457" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-25T17:24:56.557" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Green wood is the term used to describe wood that is recently cut from a living tree and has not yet had the opportunity to dry/cure. As wood dries it shrinks and can change shape so waiting until wood has dried before using it often is a good idea. There are reasons for using green wood, but one should know why before doing so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T19:37:09.487" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T19:37:09.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="458" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-25T17:24:56.557" Score="0" Body="Wood that has been recently cut and not yet had a chance to dry/cure." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T18:26:32.393" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T18:26:32.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="459" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-25T17:29:02.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drilling is the process of boring a hole into or through a piece of wood. There are many different kinds of drill bits and quite a few different tools that can be used to perform the action.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hand drills, power drills, drill presses, braces, gimlets, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T19:10:40.387" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T19:10:40.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="460" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-25T17:29:02.420" Score="0" Body="The process of boring a hole into or through a piece of wood." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T18:48:02.923" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T18:48:02.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="421" CreationDate="2015-03-25T17:48:23.037" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A slightly off-topic approach would be looking into &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Numerical_control&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;CNC&quot;&gt;CNC&lt;/a&gt; automated equipment, especially if the 5000 units are the first of thousands more.  It is not my area of expertise but I know small shops use such gear for limited runs. Once set up, you would still need someone to feed the wood and swap bits, but the drilling would be hands off. The overhead is the cost of the gear and its set up for task(s), which would include the programming. There is a hobby-oriented gear as well as full production grade gear. For a taste of the hobby end, you may wish to visit &lt;a href=&quot;http://makezine.com/category/workshop/cnc-machining/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://makezine.com/category/workshop/cnc-machining/&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T17:48:23.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="451" CreationDate="2015-03-25T17:49:45.083" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure it's possible to catch all the dust you make on any project, however the is no reason not to try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For quite a while I used a shop-vac to clean things up and many tools have connections to help in this endeavor, though you need to keep moving the shop-vac around to all your tools.  On top of that they tend to be very loud, (much louder even than my big dust collector).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I started using my planer, the shop-vac was not nearly up to par.  I'd fill it up after just a couple boards and it was a mess cleaning it out all the time.  They have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/143290/Trash-Can-Cyclone-Lid.aspx?refcode=10INGOPB&amp;amp;gclid=CjwKEAjwucmoBRDmysGsgbDr5j0SJAAxL9ab6Y98i5MxtOBfj3TEL_cJK6Qq6M9Whw6cfnzqAIxAwRoCtgvw_wcB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cyclone lids&lt;/a&gt; that you can buy for normal trash cans which will separate most of the chip volume out before it gets to the shopvac.  saving you a lot of time.  My planer causes by far the most mess, so getting that under wraps will go a long way in reducing your dust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another piece that I'm still hoping to add to my shop is a ceiling mounted dust collector/air purifier to clean out all the suspended particles floating around, they are what leave that fine coat of dust on everything when you come back in the next day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T17:49:45.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="463" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-25T18:24:24.633" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tools that don't require an external power source such as electricity or steam power.  Hammers, planes, chisels etc.  Things powered by good old fashioned elbow grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Resources:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How To Make Woodwork Tools, Full Working Drawings of Reliable Tools You Can Make Yourself&lt;/strong&gt;, Charles H. Haywood; Evans Brothers Limited, London; Fair Use Publication 2006, Gary Roberts; &lt;a href=&quot;http://toolemera.com/bkpdf/haywardhowtobk.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://toolemera.com/bkpdf/haywardhowtobk.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T18:27:06.973" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T18:27:06.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="464" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-25T18:24:24.633" Score="0" Body="Tools used by hand, the work/power is supplied by the tool user." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T18:47:55.153" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T18:47:55.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="465" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-25T18:35:32.163" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The process of turning trees/logs/branches into usable boards.  This could be using a mill, a chainsaw, a bandsaw etc.  Processes, techniques, equipment, safety concerns etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T18:48:10.647" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T18:48:10.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="466" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-25T18:35:32.163" Score="0" Body="The process of turning trees into boards." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T23:17:48.393" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T23:17:48.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="456" CreationDate="2015-03-25T19:04:03.747" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps the most common solution is to build hardwood face frames for your cabinets. The face frame conceals and protects the edge of the plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your cabinets are already built, a film finish will help protect against damage, but may not hold up to seasonal movement over time along the mitered joints.  Personally I wouldn't bother with the clear plastic corner protectors because I think they're ugly. I would install hardwood trim around the corners instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T19:12:35.247" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T19:12:35.247" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="390" CreationDate="2015-03-25T22:10:59.550" Score="25" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Counter-sinking prevents murder.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(that is, wood grain murder)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Driving a screw into a hole that isn't counter-sunk will have a very small point of contact, which exerts brutal sheer forces and tears the wood grain apart. Hammering in a nail is pretty much the only thing you could do worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A counter-sunk screw, on the other hand, has a large contact surface to a cleanly-cut wood funnel, and the resulting direction of the force is mostly downwards (where you want it to be):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZoPNs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forcing in the screw brutally murders the grain and reduces the wood's stability. Also, if you look close enough, you'll notice that it looks like rubbish:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yt0YF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By comparison, the counter-sunk piece of wood looks &lt;strong&gt;a lot&lt;/strong&gt; healthier on the inside, even when doing a hustle job with a cheap sinker like I did here (and the exterior appearance is much better, too):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v7Tf3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very often, the difference will not matter too much since both screw and wood will withstand 10 times as much as you are planning for anyway. But it might just make the difference between an intact piece and a broken one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it's a bit a matter of principle, too: You needlessly weaken the internal structure when you really don't need to (it really only takes 2 seconds and a 0.99 tool).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, for a quality work piece where you really mean it, you would rather use a 3-lobe HSS piece (which is in the ca. 25.00 range rather than 0.99) in a column drill. That's yet an entirely different ballpark of quality. But even a cheap hand-operated counter-sinker is an order of magnitude better than forcing the screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="135" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T11:48:39.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="456" CreationDate="2015-03-26T00:13:32.760" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way that I have used for this is to just use overlap corner joints for the plywood. This type of joint covers one raw edge of the plywood. On the other piece that is left with the raw edge showing I've glued on a thin strip of solid wood of the same type as the nice face of the plywood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thickness that works nicely for this is 1/8 inch. There are many options of how the corner is actually formed that depends just exactly what you are building. Here are some ideas of how the corner joints can be constructed to give different style looks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/75crX.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T00:13:32.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="456" CreationDate="2015-03-26T00:18:43.920" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;By &lt;code&gt;beveled&lt;/code&gt;, do you actually mean &lt;code&gt;mitered&lt;/code&gt;?  You could use a little cleat of hardwood, which is something you can even do after you've already assembled the cabinets.  (with plywood, biscuits are possibly not necessary, although personally, I'd probably use anyway).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a picture of what I'm suggesting:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qeT7j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hardwood edging&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(picture from &lt;a href=&quot;http://stl1.wgcinc.com/jeff/wwi.nsf/655664e57de40eff86257aae007999a4/42e4e9fdbe7450e08625782b004b2f59?OpenDocument&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;12 ways to build cabinets faster and better with biscuits&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="100" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T00:18:43.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="425" CreationDate="2015-03-26T00:28:20.367" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many router bits manufacturers include bits to cut the slots for biscuits.  If you don't have to many to make, this may be an alternative for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8c602.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;biscuit slot cutter bit&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(picture via google search from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;eBay&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="100" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T00:28:20.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="400" CreationDate="2015-03-26T01:33:25.663" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK just read the whole question and looked at Matt's answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have two questions really that were asked.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When cutting a log what are the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.core77.com/posts/24918/how-logs-are-turned-into-boards-part-3-riftsawn-24918&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;different cuts&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Matt's answer does a great job of displaying the different types of milling a log, Plain sawn is the cheapest and easiest way to cut a log and has the least waste.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quarter sawn is more work intensive, you have to cut the log into quarters and then cut one face of then the other alternating back and forth for each quarter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Riftsawn this is the most work intensive and has the most waste from the log.  Each board is a true 'Quarter sawn' board.  the growth rings are all exactly 90 degrees to the face.  This probably came about from the practice of riving oak logs to get boards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;And what is Quarter-sawn wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Flat sawn wood has the grain mostly flat/parallel to the face of the board.  Looking at the growth rings at the end of the board you will see they reach most of the way across from narrow side to narrow side, 'flat' across the face.  Generally (0 - 30 degrees)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Quarter sawn lumber has the rings perpendicular to the face and generally is defined at 60-90 degrees,&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Apparently Rift sawn lumber is the middle stuff (30-60 degree) lumber&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is confusing and strange but everything I look up appears to agree, which is strange, a board considered 'rift' would never come out of a rift cut log.  Rift cut lumber can come out of Quarter sawn and plane/flat sawn logs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T01:33:25.663" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="473" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="492" CreationDate="2015-03-26T03:23:02.807" Score="14" ViewCount="1033" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I was planing down a plank of Cedar this evening I noticed that the plane did not slide through the knotty wood, that it was a harsh stop.  It made me wonder whether I should attempt to plane wood that has knots in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does knot wood cause a hand plane's blade to become duller faster than regular wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T08:26:42.003" Title="Does knotty wood dull a hand plane faster than normal wood?" Tags="|hand-tools|plane|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="474" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-26T03:43:26.407" Score="9" ViewCount="16091" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is a basic question, but I see a lot of conflicting usage out there...  What is the difference between a beveled and a mitered edge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think people say &quot;mitered&quot; when they really mean &quot;beveled&quot;.  Hoping to get some clarity once and for all! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="204" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T20:51:38.667" Title="What is the difference between a beveled and a mitered edge?" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="474" CreationDate="2015-03-26T04:38:22.360" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that a bevel is &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; angled cut, not necessarily used for joinery. A miter is a beveled edge (or set of beveled edges) cut to be joined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you might find some people getting picky about it and saying that a &quot;bevel&quot; is along the length of the piece and a miter is on the width, but then what is it for a square?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go strictly by definitions (from m-w.com) ...  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Bevel&lt;/em&gt;: &quot;a slanted surface or edge on a piece of wood, glass, etc.&quot;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Miter&lt;/em&gt;: &quot; a surface forming the &lt;strong&gt;beveled&lt;/strong&gt; end or edge of a piece where a joint is made by cutting two pieces at an angle and fitting them together&quot;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say that supports my conclusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A miter is also a hat, but that's probably not so useful here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T04:38:22.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="476" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="506" CreationDate="2015-03-26T05:14:19.050" Score="12" ViewCount="6089" Body="&lt;p&gt;When &lt;em&gt;shopping&lt;/em&gt; for lumber, how do you identify each type of board, and what are some examples of when you would choose to use each one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, what are the visual and physical characteristics that may make a board desirable or undesirable in certain types of projects (or even different parts of the same project), and once one selects a type of board for a project, how would that person go about identifying the correct type of board when looking through stacks at a store or hardwood dealer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: for the purposes of this question, I am &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; interested in the different cut patterns that can be used to mill a log into the various &quot;cuts&quot; of lumber as discussed in &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/400/what-are-the-common-cut-patterns-used-to-mill-a-log-into-boards&quot;&gt;What are the common cut patterns used to mill a log into boards?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, because I purchase my lumber already-milled and do not mill my own logs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T02:41:04.553" Title="What are the different uses for plain sawn (flat sawn), rift sawn, and quarter sawn boards?" Tags="|lumber|quarter-sawn|rift-sawn|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="477" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="480" CreationDate="2015-03-26T05:36:54.543" Score="12" ViewCount="506" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many people seem to refer to any highly figured wood or interesting grain pattern as a &lt;em&gt;burl&lt;/em&gt; (also referred to as a &lt;em&gt;burr&lt;/em&gt; outside the US), but I'm told &quot;true&quot; burls are extremely rare. What is a burl, and what causes it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-06-19T01:00:56.253" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T01:00:56.253" Title="What is a burl?" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="474" CreationDate="2015-03-26T07:06:54.807" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most casual references seem to call all angled joints &quot;miter joints&quot;.  However, I've found that most deliberate references to the two types of cuts seem to reflect what is shown in this image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/chLiD.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The actual description of these cuts is a bit hard for me to describe, but in practice, it seems that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Bevel&lt;/em&gt;: What you would use to make a simple box without end grain showing (e.g. without butt joints)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Miter&lt;/em&gt;: What you would use to make a picture frame, door frame, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even the &quot;anatomy&quot; of the miter saw seems to back this up:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9cXHy.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ultimately, given the variety of perspectives on the matter, it seems there is no clear consensus.  Nit-picky individuals might discern a difference.  However, casually speaking, both &quot;kinds&quot; of joints can be called miter joints.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="204" LastEditorUserId="204" LastEditDate="2015-03-26T20:51:38.667" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T20:51:38.667" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="476" CreationDate="2015-03-26T09:05:59.513" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe, at least what my take is on saw mill techniques, is that plain sawn is a sawing technique as is quater sawn, or radial sawn, are other techniques. there is another version of sawing technique that is called &quot;rift sawing&quot;. I heard of this one for the first time just a few days ago when another member posted a question that may have asked the same question, in a different manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process of plain sawing lumber will produce all the types of sawn wood, flat, quarter, and rift&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4cbSY.gif&quot; alt=&quot;plain sawn&quot;&gt;&#xA;Quarter sawn wood will only produce quarter and rift sawn wood&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vkyUf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;quarter sawn 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rift sawing, though I think it should be called &quot;radial sawing&quot; produces only quarter sawn wood, but it produces the most waste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sbcry.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rift sawn&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will have to add more later, it is getting real late&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T09:05:59.513" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="477" CreationDate="2015-03-26T10:08:41.900" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burl&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;burl&lt;/a&gt; is an outgrowth on a tree:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qdyiJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt; source &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Growth_on_tree_trunk_-_geograph.org.uk_-_724687.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are cause by infestations or injuries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inside the burl the grain is twisted and interlocked, this makes it interesting for carvings and for its strength as it's less likely to split. This grain pattern also makes it difficult to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T10:08:41.900" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="474" CreationDate="2015-03-26T12:29:57.020" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A miter is the angled cut for joining two pieces of material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bevel is a cut to know off the sharp edge of a piece of material, and may, in fact be round in profile (a radius). A bevel is used as a decorative finishing technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T12:29:57.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="473" CreationDate="2015-03-26T12:33:21.327" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it does, they tend to be harder and the grain also is in a different orientation.  often planing a knot is similar to planing the end grain.  This of course is harder on the blade and thus more wear.  I have even noticed it on my planer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether you quit planing knots is up to you, it just means you have to sharpen the blade more often.  Which is something I know I need to become more proficient in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2015-03-29T13:05:05.917" LastActivityDate="2015-03-29T13:05:05.917" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="483" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="502" CreationDate="2015-03-26T14:10:42.700" Score="6" ViewCount="703" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a toy car with nails for axles and plastic wheels. The block of wood had a thin, 1/4&quot; groove in for setting the &quot;axles&quot; into for a car.  (about the kerf of a blade). Unfortunately, these grooves are too large for the nails and positioned perfectly for the wheels locations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an easy compound I can use, and then re-drill to fill the holes to make use of the block again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T15:40:05.947" Title="What is a good method for filling holes in wood to try and re-drill them?" Tags="|holes|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="440" CreationDate="2015-03-26T14:10:58.637" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sharpening bits after every use sounds like a really bad advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not only is the router bit getting smaller every time (no joke!), so eventually you will notice that this 6mm plywood that you're trying to stick into the 6mm groove made with your 6mm dado bit &lt;em&gt;wont't fit for some weird reason&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Also you may eventually notice that those identical pieces that you make with the copying ring have a different size than the ones you made half a year ago, for some unexplainable, weird reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More importantly, however, sharpening router bits -- like everything related to routers -- is a non-trivial thing which must be done with skill and great care.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A router bit is not comparable to a kitchen knife or a chisel. If you have to ask what tools you need, you do not have the necessary skill to sharpen a router bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A router is a considerably strong motor that spins with 24.000 RPM, and most certainly a machine that the intelligent woodworker will treat with due respect. In the context of router, words like &quot;unbalance&quot; are equivalent to any or all of &quot;ruined work, desaster, mutilation, death&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is therefore a common advice to be most pedantic about very carefully &lt;em&gt;cleaning&lt;/em&gt; your router bits (with petroleum and a brush) and to very carefully &lt;em&gt;examine&lt;/em&gt; them, but to do no more than at most a few pulls (if at all) over a fine honing stone from time to time, and to either have the bit professionally sharpened after doing that 4-5 times, or replacing it alltogether. (See e.g. Guido Henn's router book).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="135" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T14:10:58.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="456" CreationDate="2015-03-26T14:11:13.123" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another solution is to design real-wood edging into the piece, to cover the plywood edge. This can range from veneer tape (edgebanding) to a piece of hardwood chosen to match the color and thickness of the ply and glued tightly to it  -- or may be thicker, shelf edging often extend below the shelf both to stiffen the shelf and to make it look more substantial. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My quick-and-sloppy student cd racks had off-the-shelf half-round moldings slapped onto the exposed ply edges with no effort to disguise what had been done. (I wasn't exactly using the most attractive ply either; if i'd really cared i'd have considered those strictly &quot;paint grade&quot;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T14:11:13.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="483" CreationDate="2015-03-26T14:15:31.297" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;In this case I would tend to use a dowel, drill a bigger hole that matches the dowel and glue the dowel in, then recut or drill a hole for the axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is a long cut, then you could try a small 'wedge' to do the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T14:15:31.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="450" CreationDate="2015-03-26T14:16:02.853" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Main advantages of the manufactured ones is that you know they're low-lint, you don't have to worry about color bleeding out, and if you're doing a lot of woodworking you might run out of houehold rags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a slightly related note: microfiber cloth seems to be as good as a &quot;tack cloth&quot; for removing dust before finishing, and can be washed and reused many times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T14:16:02.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="488" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-26T14:24:41.133" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the question is tool-centric, whether someone needs to know how to use a tool, what tools would work to get a job done or even what tools are available.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T18:50:52.037" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T18:50:52.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="489" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-26T14:24:41.133" Score="0" Body="What tools to use, how to use them and when. " OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-03-26T22:44:28.223" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T22:44:28.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="490" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-26T14:27:50.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not only how to perform a task but why one way might be better than another, whether it's based on the tools available or tried-and-true methods of woodworking to produce the best long-lasting results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T18:23:21.760" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T18:23:21.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="491" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-26T14:27:50.123" Score="0" Body="How to accomplish a task, good and safe ways, and faster simpler ways to do the same thing." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-03-26T17:00:08.863" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T17:00:08.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="473" CreationDate="2015-03-26T14:28:57.100" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Knots do in fact dull any cutter faster than the surrounding wood does because they are harder.  Knots don't leave severe nicks though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The secret to good hand planing is to sharpen often - sharpness is the best thing to improve results.  When encountering knots it is helpful to skew the plane a bit and approach the knot at an angle but having the blade sharp is important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that I need to sharpen every time I intend to use the plane if I know that I will use it for more than a few passes.  When I say 'sharpen' I don't mean grind, coarse stone, medium stone, fine stone - all that rigamarole.  I just mean 'honing', i.e., using the fine stone and then strop it on some leather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, I'll stop because sharpening is another huge topic and I don't want to go off-topic.  Suffice it to say that knots are indeed hard to plane but frequent honing helps.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note:  when using a surface planer (big power tool), if the knives are not new and sharp, they can rip the knots completely out.  You can hear them rattling around inside the planer before then find their way out.  This is startling when it happens.  I should replace my planer knives more often than I do because in my case, it seems that the rollers do not pull the work through as well if the knives are not sharp.  This is probably unique to the planer I have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T14:28:57.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="493" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-26T14:31:43.837" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To ask about when, why and how to sharpen different edged tools. From chisels plane cutters to saws and saw blades etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are good angles for different tools and what angles are good for what purposes. There are many different tools to sharpen with many possible how-tos and whys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T19:01:19.650" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T19:01:19.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="494" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-26T14:31:43.837" Score="0" Body="When, why, how to sharpen what. E.g. How to sharpen a cross-cut saw?" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T19:01:19.650" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T19:01:19.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="495" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-26T14:37:08.597" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Table saws are fixed powered equipment, with adjustable blade height and angle, and a rotating circular sawblade protruding from the middle of a table used to support the material during the cutting operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood is cut by moving past the spinning blade. It is one of the commonest and most versatile tools in any woodworking shop. With proper use of a rip fence and miter-gauge wood can be cut in straight lines at any angle from parallel (ripping) to perpendicular with the wood grain (crosscutting). With the use of jigs, a tablesaw can be used to cut most of the components used in common woodworking projects including circles and moldings, as well as to form grooves (dados), rebate/rabbets and tenons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tablesaws are commonly found in two flavors: portable - for field construction and stationary for shop applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pDZDg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pDZDg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Portable tablesaw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lWkeh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lWkeh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Stationary tablesaw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Resources&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anthony, Paul, &lt;strong&gt;Complete Illustrated Guide to Tablesaws&lt;/strong&gt;, The Taunton Press, 2009. A detailed comprehensive overview of tablesaws including features, accessories, safety, maintenance, operation and techniques for many cutting operations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T18:31:52.223" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T18:31:52.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="496" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-26T14:37:08.597" Score="0" Body="About uses and techniques, features to look for etc." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-03-26T16:59:32.537" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T16:59:32.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="497" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-26T14:41:19.113" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well maintained tools are safer to use and tend to make the experience more enjoyable.  There are many different tools out there and each one has different techniques and expectations for proper care and maintenance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-03-26T22:44:52.993" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T22:44:52.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="498" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-26T14:41:19.113" Score="0" Body="Maintaining tools to keep them useful and extend their life." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-03-26T22:44:45.410" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T22:44:45.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="499" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="501" CreationDate="2015-03-26T14:50:05.287" Score="13" ViewCount="882" Body="&lt;p&gt;My father no longer uses his shop (for the most part) and the tools are going to me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over time and disuse some of his turning tools have disappeared or fallen into disrepair. I would like to start learning to turn, but I will need some new gouges. What are the &quot;must have&quot; gouges for a beginning turner? I have already purchased a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B008B86DLS&quot;&gt;1 inch flute roughing gouge&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastActivityDate="2021-11-30T20:34:37.863" Title="Which first gouges to get for a beginning turner" Tags="|hand-tools|turning|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="499" CreationDate="2015-03-26T15:09:34.050" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A roughing gouge is important. But if you don't have to slow speed grinder with the necessary attachments it can be a pain to sharpen it once it dulls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a beginner at turning as well. I bought a cheap set of turning tools on amazon and have buyers remorse. My wife doesn't want me to spend any more money on the shop this month so I started making my own turning tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made a roughing gouge in an afternoon using some scrap wood for a handle that i turned with my cheap amazon set. I just used metal rod that i inserted into the handle and screwed a carbide cutter on the end (it was a spare from my joiner that has the spiral head. but these can be had on amazon cheap).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The carbide will last longer than the high speed steel and instead of spending a ton on sharpening equipment, i replace a $15 piece of carbide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used it recently on hard maple and padouk and it worked very well, and cost me about $20 all together, not to mention it was fun to make. I even got a round cutter from wood craft for $16 that i can switch out with the square cutter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could go into a ton of detail but there is a lot on youtube about making your own turning tools. Here's an example &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aUrGPvPumns&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aUrGPvPumns&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="189" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T15:09:34.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="499" CreationDate="2015-03-26T15:11:15.753" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;A large part depends on what you ultimately plan on turning. However, &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B000KI8CTS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; is the set I bought when I jumped into the hobby.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PY35s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 of them I almost never use even now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3/16-Inch Parting Tool - used to 'cut' the work-piece off its base.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Once I got a chuck I use this surprisingly little but still a must have.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5/8-Inch Spear Scraper - like the round nose scraper this is used to shape your pieces. It has a point and two flat edges giving you options for smoothing and shaping.  &lt;strong&gt;rarely use for my turning&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1-Inch Skew Chisel - used for smoothing, tapers and beading, as well as v-cuts. &lt;strong&gt;Started using it a lot, but have moved away from it.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5/8-Inch Skew Chisel - same as the one above, but smaller and easier to guide.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;I also rarely use this one&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5/8-Inch Round nose scraper - I tend to use this one on a lot of things. It works great for cleaning up the inside and outside of bowls and makes a nice smooth surface. &lt;strong&gt;LOVE this one, one of my most used tools and I have bought 1 or 2 more of different sizes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1/2-Inch Bowl Gouge - primarily for hollowing out bowls, I've used the round nose scrapper to do the same thing. &lt;strong&gt;Took me a long time to learn to use this correctly and I have a different one that I like more but a bowl gouge is good if you plan on turning bowls.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3/4-Inch Spindle Gouge - to round spindle stock. &lt;strong&gt;Used a bit, very useful&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7/8-Inch Roughing Gouge - also to round spindle stock. &lt;strong&gt;Use it all the time, similar to the one you bought, I've also bought a couple others of different sizes.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, if you are just going to buy them one at a time, then it is a good idea to go for quality. These aren't bad and I started with 'cheap' because I didn't know if I would like turning. Since then I've bought a set that cost more than my first lathe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-11-30T20:34:37.863" LastActivityDate="2021-11-30T20:34:37.863" CommentCount="17" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="483" CreationDate="2015-03-26T15:40:05.947" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;@bowlturner gives a good suggestion, but with pinewood derby cars (I'm assuming?) it's going to be really hard to get a dowel to sit well since the slot is at the edge of the wood. I'd probably dado a larger groove where the nail slot is (maybe 1/4 in deep and 1/4 in wide) and cut a piece of wood that size and glue it in. You &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; try wood filler, but I've had mixed results with that and it almost always looks lame when painted over. And, it will not be nearly as strong as a dado'd piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, whether you use bowltuner's suggestion or mine, the recommendation is basically the same--hallow out the &quot;defect&quot; into a shape that's easily managed, cut a piece of wood that same shape, and fasten it with wood glue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T15:40:05.947" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="476" CreationDate="2015-03-26T15:58:37.773" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good question. I'd heard that quartersawn wood reacts less to seasonal wood movement, but couldn't be sure. A quick search found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wwgoa.com/three-reasons-to-use-quarter-sawn-wood/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Knowing that quarter-sawn wood can out price plain-sawn by a factor of two (or more), here are the compelling reasons to buy it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Quarter-sawn wood is more stable than plain-sawn. Not only is it less prone to cupping, it also expands and contracts less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Quarter-sawn provides a “quieter” and straighter face grain than plain-sawn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In some woods, especially the oaks, quarter sawing reveals dramatic internal rays that add a very cool dimension to the material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also heard that in some species, quarter sawn is called &quot;vertical grain&quot; (e.g., doug fir). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally prefer plain-sawn wood because I &lt;em&gt;like&lt;/em&gt; the variety in grain patterns you get from plain-sawn wood (particularly walnut, which has alternating colors of brown, purple, green, light brown, etc). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T15:58:37.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="450" CreationDate="2015-03-26T17:52:09.947" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I once found a roll of cheesecloth in the dumpster at work and took it home for finishing projects.  I liked it because it was rolled up like paper towels and the individual pieces were separated (about the size of a roll of paper towels). I could just grab one when I wanted it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They worked well but no better than the cut-up T-shirts or old cotton socks that I usually use.  By the time I retire a pair of socks, there's little fuzz left to become lint.  If there is any lint from a T-shirt, it seems to come from the cut edges which I manage to mitigate by folding the cut edges under when I roll up a piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T17:52:09.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="440" CreationDate="2015-03-26T18:16:04.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the answer to the question of when to sharpen a router bit is that you look for burning on the material that you are routing.  If you see burn marks, that indicates a problem.  Clean them first and run another stick through and if it still burns, you need to sharpen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to how, I've never actually done it.  My carbide bits still work well but then I don't use them very often.  If I wanted to sharpen one, I'd start with one of the diamond-encrusted paddles that are sold as &quot;pocket sharpening stones.&quot;  Here is one example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/123020/DMT-Diamond-Mini-sharp-Sharpener-Extra-coarse.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Diamond sharpener from Woodcraft&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T18:16:04.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="476" CreationDate="2015-03-26T18:54:24.977" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;While named the same, the milling processes and resulting boards are two different things. It would be easier to say that each of the milling processes can yield boards of different types. There is confusion that stems from this. Presently the following is accepted.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Understand&lt;/strong&gt; that it would be inaccurate to expect that a specific milling process would produce boards of all the same type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;It's Always the Grain&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer is the grains appearance and the growth rings on the face. It is common to expect that the face of a board or plank is where you will find the end grain. The rings on the face and grain along the length of the board will have distinct characteristics. Following all the descriptions will be a comparison image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Flat/Plain Sawn&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Appearance&lt;/strong&gt;: The growth rings have the most extreme angles are should be within the range of 0 to 30 degrees. The length of the board will have a unique look referred to as cathedral or arrow. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Properties&lt;/strong&gt;: The angle of the end grains major drawback is that it will dry faster and can absorb moisture faster. That of course is dependent on the wood location. That is the reason this wood is most unacceptable to warping ( mostly cupping). Even so, it's appearance makes it very desirable and is usually cheapest to acquire. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Uses/Application&lt;/strong&gt;: Common applications include hardwood flooring and decorative shelving among others.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Quarter Sawn&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Appearance&lt;/strong&gt;: Growth rings on the face/end are perpendicular/90 degrees to the boards width. At is acceptable for the growth rings to be withing 60 to 90 degrees and still be considered Quarter sawn. These rings run parallel the whole length of the board. Some woods, particularly oak, when cut this way display a fleck pattern which has no special property other than appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Properties&lt;/strong&gt;: Considered the most resistant to warping and has the least water absolution when compared to the other cuts. Make quarter an ideal choice for making furniture or applications where wood expansion is important element.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Uses/Application&lt;/strong&gt;: You would see quarter used for musical instruments as well where you want the shape to persist throughout the instruments life. Usually the most expensive to acquire but can be justified given its long term properties.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rift Sawn&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Appearance&lt;/strong&gt;: For the board to be considered rift you will see growth rings on the face/end that have angles between 30 and 90 degrees. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Properties&lt;/strong&gt;: Considered the compromise of the two cuts. More resistant to warping than flat/plain sawn and absorbs less moisture. The grain that runs the length of the board will be parallel as well but not near as exact as it would be with quarter. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Uses/Application&lt;/strong&gt;: This would be considered general use if you don't need the appearance of flat or if true quarter is not economically viable.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Comparison Image&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below you can see the three different types in relationship to each other. Don't worry about the XYZ. Those letters are just there to show you what axis the boards in the picture follow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gz9BE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sawn types&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Clarification&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will check external sources and you will run into viable references that will use the name Quarter to describe Rift and vice versa. One thing to remember is while the naming convention can be misleading the properties of the boards holds true. &lt;strong&gt;Trust the grain!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-03-27T02:41:04.553" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T02:41:04.553" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="507" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-26T19:35:21.260" Score="7" ViewCount="4573" Body="&lt;p&gt;Long story short, I recently got a chance to visit Hawaii a few months ago, and while there really fell in love with all of the Koa wood stuff they have there. The wood is really beautiful, but the problem is that it's really expensive (they can only harvest downed or dying trees).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is does anyone know of a wood that is similar in grain and color to Koa? I'm not interested in its tonal properties, just the grain and color. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bYq0R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image for those unfamiliar with the wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="82" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-06-19T01:29:18.040" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T01:29:18.040" Title="Similar wood to Koa" Tags="|wood-selection|wood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="508" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="518" CreationDate="2015-03-27T01:43:36.120" Score="9" ViewCount="5934" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some decent lengths of oak 1&quot;x4&quot; leftover from another project and would like to create a table top out of the pieces.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The table I am looking to create is not large, it will be a bedside table, it will be roughly 18&quot; x 18&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I need to know is the best way to join them to avoid them being un-even on the top (as in what you walk on with a hard wood floor) and to avoid warping and bowing in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="212" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-03-11T16:45:11.817" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T16:45:11.817" Title="How do I make a table top from oak 1&quot; x 4&quot;" Tags="|hardwood|bowing|tabletop|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="509" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-27T01:48:06.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jointers are stationary powered woodworking tools used to &lt;em&gt;joint&lt;/em&gt;, or flatten the faces or edges of boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T19:36:45.233" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T19:36:45.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="510" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-27T01:48:06.447" Score="0" Body="About uses and techniques, features to look for etc." OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-03-27T14:05:38.100" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T14:05:38.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="511" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-27T01:49:56.450" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-03-27T01:49:56.450" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T01:49:56.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="512" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-27T01:49:56.450" Score="0" Body="About uses and techniques, features to look for etc." OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-03-27T14:06:21.537" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T14:06:21.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="513" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-27T01:51:42.830" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Primary product of milling logs. Arguably the most common raw material used. Can be further processed into boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This tag &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; not stand alone in questions but give context to its partner tag whether it be &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/joinery&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'joinery'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;joinery&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/sanding&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'sanding'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;sanding&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions can be focused on the assembly, processing, treatment and preservation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-03-27T14:06:12.263" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T14:06:12.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="514" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-27T01:51:42.830" Score="0" Body="Uses and applications of the common raw material also known as timber (British English, in the US/North America timber refers to standing trees)." OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T19:21:34.460" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T19:21:34.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="515" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-27T01:57:06.397" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sawdust generally is used to refer to all particulate residue from woodworking operations, from actual sawing (genuine saw dust) to finer particles created by high-speed power tools including the table saw and router, to the dust created exclusively by sanding, which is more accurately referred to as sanding dust if you need to be specific.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T20:26:20.963" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T20:26:20.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="516" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-27T01:57:06.397" Score="0" Body="Dealing with the byproduct of every woodworking project." OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-03-27T14:06:29.823" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T14:06:29.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="361" CreationDate="2015-03-27T01:59:49.793" Score="9" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SAND&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stain/Finish&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had this scenario come up before and the best method I have found thus far is to clean as well as you can while you are gluing, then once the glue is set lightly sand the joints with a fine grit paper (sand evenly across all the board(s).  I do this even if I do not see noticeable glue marks prior to finishing as I have thought I was fine then realized as the stain was being applied that there was in fact glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also not generally suggest applying tape to wood.  Depending on the tape and the wood adhesive can be left behind which will lead to problems similar to the glue problem in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="212" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T01:59:49.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="508" CreationDate="2015-03-27T02:10:39.033" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well I would tend to use my biscuit joiner to join all the pieces.  Try to avoid flat sawn pieces in the middle of the table top and if you have flat sawn lumber then make sure you alternate the orientation, you want one up and then one down etc it will reduce the overall cupping motion across the whole top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternate that could be done is to run the boards edge first on a table saw or run a router bit to make a groove on each long side (~1/4&quot; - 1/2&quot; deep), I'd go with 1/4&quot; wide. Then make 1/4&quot; stripe slightly narrower than the depth of the two side grooves together.  This will be like tongue and groove, (it is called a spline joint the spline being the strip of wood) and it will be solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;visual:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8L1DB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are still worried about it attach a strip near each end of the top across the glue up on the underside, it can also be used to attach it to the bottom or legs.  It will also stiffen the whole top making it stronger for all kind of use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-03-27T13:41:37.240" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T13:41:37.240" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="519" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-27T12:56:58.833" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fasteners with a helical thread along the outside. Uses a twisting motion to install or remove. There are many different types and sizes of screws and bolts and all of them can be used to fasten thing together. With so many options, knowing which would be best to use in any circumstance can be hard.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T19:01:56.287" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T19:01:56.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="520" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-27T12:56:58.833" Score="0" Body="Fasteners with a helical thread along the outside. Uses a twisting motion to install or remove. " OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T19:01:56.287" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T19:01:56.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="361" CreationDate="2015-03-27T13:03:13.660" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've watched many videos in which people glue up panels and such and I've seen them use very little glue with almost no squeeze-out as well as huge amounts of squeeze-out and glue dripping everywhere.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I try to minimize squeeze-out; the ability to estimate how much glue to squirt on comes with experience.  But when it does squeeze out, I try to come back in about 20 minutes and scrape off the squeeze-out with a putty knife.  At that time, it's pretty stiff but still very easy to scrape off.  If you wait till it's hard, the process is a bit more difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T13:03:13.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="522" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-27T13:08:31.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hands planes have many uses, and require maintenance to keep them working 'smoothly'. Different planes are used for different jobs and there are different ways to use them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T19:03:40.437" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T19:03:40.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="523" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-27T13:08:31.420" Score="0" Body="Maintenance, techniques and general use of hand planes." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T19:03:40.437" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T19:03:40.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="508" CreationDate="2015-03-27T13:32:13.803" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;@bowlturner gives some excellent suggestions. Let me just add a few things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Be sure to use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/35878/clamping-cauls-the-secret-to-great-glue-ups&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cauls&lt;/a&gt;. They are pieces of wood laid across the top of the boards being joined to keep them aligned (and to spread clamping pressure). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure to alternate the position of the clamps. Have some clamping from the top and others clamping from the bottom. If you don't, you'll end up bowing the surface. I actually had this problem when I made my countertops--it wasn't visible on the first couple of rows, but at the end, there was significant bow that had built up. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You'll need a lot of clamps. There are some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/27122/how-to-glue-up-joints-the-right-number-of-clamps&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;formulas&lt;/a&gt; out there that tell you how many you need, but I'd rather build than do math, so I just use as many clamps as I can fit. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to biscuits and splines (as mentioned by @bowlturner), you can also use dowels. I ended up using a spline for my countertops. (As an aside, because they were bowed, I decided not to use them for a countertop. I bought Ikea countertops, was quite happy, but noticed that theirs were just as bowed as mine--though the joints were better. I ended up using the Ikea countertops for my countertop and the ones that I made for a workbench surface.) Here's a picture of how they turned out (maple with a shellac finish). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4dxWd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Spline Joint&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T13:32:13.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="507" CreationDate="2015-03-27T13:35:15.247" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pau Ferro looks like it is similar to Koa, but I think it will be tough to find a wood that looks exactly like Koa.   Also, Pau Ferro is from South America, so it is possible that it would be even harder to source than Koa.  The below photo is sealed/finished Pau Ferro; its natural color is a lighter matte, but the grain pattern (save for the amazing quilting) is very similar to Koa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q4oVc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sealed Pau Ferro courtesy of the wood database -- www.wood-database.com&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T13:35:15.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="526" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-27T13:47:35.090" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Questions about usage, maintenance and safety procedures, as well as features and accessories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T18:49:41.180" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T18:49:41.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="527" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-27T13:47:35.090" Score="0" Body="Tools that use some form of power other than muscle, usually electricity." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-03-27T14:54:06.213" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T14:54:06.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="528" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-27T13:56:26.727" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wood will warp in one of several different ways, it can cup (face makes a 'U') bend (length makes a 'U') or twist, like a piece of licorice. Preventing or correcting these issues is an important part of wood working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a good generalized answer about look at: &lt;a href=&quot;http://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/319/how-to-straighten-a-warped-board/382#382&quot;&gt;How to straighten a warped board&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-03-28T16:24:45.297" LastActivityDate="2015-03-28T16:24:45.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="529" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-27T13:56:26.727" Score="0" Body="Use for any Question relating to twisting, cupping and bending in wood." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T20:36:57.083" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T20:36:57.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="530" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-27T13:59:53.760" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quarter-sawn lumber is lumber where the growth rings are 60-90 degrees to the face of the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quarter-sawn lumber is the most stable board, has the least seasonal movement and less likely to warp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-03-27T14:54:02.140" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T14:54:02.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="531" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-27T13:59:53.760" Score="0" Body="Either a method of cutting logs into boards or boards with the growth rings 60-90 degrees to the face of the board" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-16T21:17:41.140" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T21:17:41.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="532" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="533" CreationDate="2015-03-27T16:29:20.527" Score="11" ViewCount="821" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many exocitc woods, particularly well colored and figured species that have been heavily logged in the past, are endangered. I know that there is illegal harvesting in various countries, and I want to make sure I'm not paying into the problem. How can I ensure that the wood I'm using has been ethically sourced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T10:51:17.130" Title="How can I ensure my wood is ethically sourced?" Tags="|lumber|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="532" CreationDate="2015-03-27T16:45:36.730" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The more you know about the species the better. First is knowing that the species you are buying is endangered. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/restricted-and-endangered-wood-species/&quot;&gt;This Wood Database article&lt;/a&gt; provides a decent reference for species to look out for.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being able to identify the species may help recognize woods that are 'similar' being switched and sold as the 'real' thing.  To be sure you are getting what you expect, you should know the scientific names of the trees.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often for endangered species that can still be legally sold, there are licensed dealers. Various national and international NGOs provide certification, including but not limited to &lt;a href=&quot;https://us.fsc.org/&quot;&gt;FSC&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sfiprogram.org/&quot;&gt;SFI&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pefc.org/&quot;&gt;PEFC&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowledge is power in this case, the more you know the better.  Though to be perfectly honest, the safest way is to not buy any of it, since that would reduce the incentive for the black market wood...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="180" LastEditDate="2015-03-27T18:39:35.777" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T18:39:35.777" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="534" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-27T18:16:33.673" Score="12" ViewCount="4135" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I calculate the weight threshold for cabinet carcasses based on the dimensions, material (e.g., plywood, mdf), and material thickness?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has someone already worked out a nice formula that I can use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-06-29T13:45:03.577" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T13:45:03.577" Title="How do I calculate the weight threshold for plywood boxes/cabinet carcasses?" Tags="|plywood|cabinetry|weight-capacity|materials|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="534" CreationDate="2015-03-27T19:19:47.463" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator.htm&quot;&gt;sagulator&lt;/a&gt; will give deflection values for horizontal shelf spans using various materials and thicknesses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you are working with extremely heavy loads (more than the weight of a countertop with people dancing on it), 3/4&quot; material for the (vertical) cabinet walls should be more than adequate. As you make the walls thinner, they will still remain surprisingly strong as long as your cabinet design prevents racking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even 1/2&quot; particleboard, which is not known for its strength, should hold up well to vertical compression/buckling, as you may know if you've ever had to pack up books that were stored on a cheap particleboard bookcase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-03-27T19:28:32.843" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T19:28:32.843" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="435" CreationDate="2015-03-27T19:20:51.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Such a bench would work well.  Mine is three sheets of laminated MDF edged with a band of red oak.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a philosophy out there (although not common) that a workbench is just a tool and its appearance or resilience is not relevant.  It is there to enable your woodworking and if it looks ugly or gets chewed up, then you can build another and on top of that, it is an indication that you use it a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, I do tend to avoid messing mine up too much. It is showing some age but I try to avoid overtly sawing into it or hitting it with a chisel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T19:20:51.690" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="294" CreationDate="2015-03-27T19:45:56.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several workbench designs that include MDF or plywood tops which are thoroughly perforated with dog holes, almost like big sheets of pegboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Festool's MFT has a sacrificial MDF top, and the original &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.facebook.com/paulkworkbench&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Paulk Workbench&lt;/a&gt; design has a plywood top similarly perforated with dog holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're simply using bench dogs for clamping, any material should hold up well enough. However, I could see the holes wearing down more quickly if you were to use holdfasts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T19:45:56.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24" CreationDate="2015-03-27T20:07:16.240" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is a week and a half old but I'll answer with what helps me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put thinned shellac onto the end grain of my projects which does a good job of sealing it.  It slows the absorption of stain enough to even up the color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I say &quot;thinned&quot; I mean a &quot;one pound cut&quot;.  This is an arcane measurement of shellac concentration that means one pound of shellac flakes to one gallon of denatured alcohol.  I use an iPhone app called &quot;Woodshop Widget&quot; to help me dilute shellac to the proper concentration by adding more alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also products sold that advertise to prevent this sort of problem but I have never used any of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T20:07:16.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="539" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-27T23:17:31.610" Score="12" ViewCount="2955" Body="&lt;p&gt;Saw nibs have been present for hundreds of years. What is their purpose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4auca.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Old, heavily warn saw featuring a nib on the smooth edge&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="81" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-03-28T13:51:06.753" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T18:07:18.263" Title="What is the purpose of a saw nib?" Tags="|hand-tools|hand-saw|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2015-11-01T05:24:06.340" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="539" CreationDate="2015-03-27T23:42:21.000" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A trollish question indeed ;) My favorite answer has been, &quot;So you can recognize an old saw at garage sales,&quot; but the most well referenced sources I've found indicate that it was originally placed as a decoration and just stuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T23:42:21.000" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="539" CreationDate="2015-03-28T00:18:49.303" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;well, there may be more to it that you'd think.  And definitely an interesting piece of trivia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 2 types of nibs, either as something sticking out like on the picture in the question, or as a little notch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are multiple answers, ranging from:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;nothing, that's just for decoration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;this can be used to attach a blade guard (so you tie the strings around it and it won't slip)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you can use it as a pivot point against a nail to draw a circle (you lock your pencil in between 2 teeth).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="100" LastActivityDate="2015-03-28T00:18:49.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="539" CreationDate="2015-03-28T01:07:56.073" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The explanation I'd always seen was that this &quot;single tooth&quot; could be used to create an initial nick in the wood to start the cut at a fairly precise place. Without that nick, the first cut has a tendency to slip sideways a bit, losing accuracy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could create the guide nick in other ways -- with a chisel,  for example -- perhaps more accurately.  But building it into the saw guarantees you'll have it when you need it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't prove that was the original intent. But I can say that it seems to work when used that way. It's more a carpentry solution than a cabinetry solution,  though, since it risks a bit more tear-out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-03-28T01:07:56.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="543" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-28T12:22:11.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lathes are used to spin wood in order to shape it, unlike most other tools.  Lathes have many options and features. Asking about techniques for different types of work are expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the wood moving, there are many safety precautions one should take.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T20:00:50.500" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T20:00:50.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="544" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-28T12:22:11.790" Score="0" Body="Lathes spin wood for the purpose of shaping the wood. Techniques, features, safety etc." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T20:00:50.500" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T20:00:50.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="545" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-28T12:25:05.803" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like most power tools, there are a wide range of options for bandsaws, and many depend on what one is attempting to do.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Techniques on how to use the equipment to get the results one wants safely and efficiently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-03-29T01:31:05.323" LastActivityDate="2015-03-29T01:31:05.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="546" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-28T12:25:05.803" Score="0" Body="About bandsaws, techniques and safety measures when using as well as features to look for when purchasing." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T19:51:34.050" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T19:51:34.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="547" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-28T12:29:31.383" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-06-19T01:34:28.697" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T01:34:28.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="548" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-28T12:29:31.383" Score="0" Body="Note that questions asking how to identify a specific piece of wood are expressly considered off-topic on this site because they are *too localized* and difficult to search. However, this tag can used  to ask about *general* strategies and resources for identifying a piece of wood." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-06-19T01:34:28.697" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T01:34:28.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="549" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-28T12:34:09.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have completed your masterpiece, but there is one step left, putting on a protective coat to keep it looking nice and safe from its environment.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many, many products and techniques for applying them.  Some have dangers in their use, other in their disposal.  All questions about the products, use and best practices of the final stage be mark thus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-03-28T18:39:49.987" LastActivityDate="2015-03-28T18:39:49.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="550" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-28T12:34:09.860" Score="0" Body="The End.  Poly, shellac, paint, wax, etc." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-03-29T01:32:07.947" LastActivityDate="2015-03-29T01:32:07.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="551" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-28T12:38:59.137" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many different products are available to glue parts together. This is for the use, techniques, best practices and safety concerns of using glues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T18:38:37.753" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T18:38:37.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="552" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-28T12:38:59.137" Score="0" Body="Chemical joinery. Using glues to attach pieces together." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T18:38:37.753" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T18:38:37.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="553" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-28T14:09:31.577" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have all seen that piece of furniture that just needs a little TLC. Restoration is the art of bringing those pieces (Including non-furniture like decorative projects) new purpose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions could range from:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replacing missing wood and gouges.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Matching stains and finishes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The questions have to pertain to woodworking itself. Questions regarding topics such as upholstery are considered off-topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-03-28T21:19:36.543" LastActivityDate="2015-03-28T21:19:36.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="554" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-28T14:09:31.577" Score="0" Body="Tools, tips and tricks that can be used to aid in restoring pieces" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-03-28T18:40:32.927" LastActivityDate="2015-03-28T18:40:32.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="555" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-28T14:43:42.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using hand tools, hand saws will always play a major role. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking for questions that cover the wide variety of saw types and styles as well as the techniques and, as always, safety concerns. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hand saws in the Western tradition generally cut on the push stroke, and have to be constructed accordingly so as not to flex too much when being pushed into the wood. Saws from Asia, Japan in particular, cut on the pull stroke and because the saw plate is in tension when it is cutting it allows them to be thinner which creates a thinner &lt;em&gt;kerf&lt;/em&gt;, the groove a saw creates during the cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T19:55:07.740" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T19:55:07.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="556" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-28T14:43:42.713" Score="0" Body="About the types, uses, techniques, and features to look for etc." OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-01-12T14:45:39.577" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T14:45:39.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="557" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="561" CreationDate="2015-03-28T16:19:14.770" Score="16" ViewCount="136131" Body="&lt;p&gt;Polyurethane is typically my go-to finish, but I'd always just kind of done it how dad showed me rather than reading the instructions, sanding with fine grain between coats, or not at all if it's still &quot;tacky.&quot; It always seems to turn out fine, but recently I read the back of the can and it said to wait 4 hours between coats (i.e. not tacky) and to use fine (000 if I recall correctly) steel wool rather than sandpaper between coats. Is this one of those &quot;recommended but not required&quot; sort of things, or have I been doing something which will bite me later?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2017-01-06T05:51:52.083" LastActivityDate="2021-08-24T21:18:07.903" Title="Should I use sandpaper or Steel Wool between coats of polyurethane?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="558" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="654" CreationDate="2015-03-28T18:19:22.663" Score="12" ViewCount="3175" Body="&lt;p&gt;End-grain cutting boards are an example of end grain being used for better performance. What are the properties of the wood which makes end-grain boards desirable? What are the disadvantages or difficulties of building them as opposed to regular cutting boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user148" LastEditorUserId="180" LastEditDate="2015-03-29T00:25:14.970" LastActivityDate="2017-01-06T06:09:56.570" Title="What are the advantages of end-grain cutting boards?" Tags="|end-grain|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="558" CreationDate="2015-03-28T18:19:22.663" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.johnboos.com/faq.asp?s=r&quot;&gt;John Boos&lt;/a&gt;, end grain blocks are used because the fibers of end grain absorb the impact of the knife better than the face grain. The effect of this over time is that the knife edge stays sharper and thus requires less frequent sharpening. Additionally, the end-grain board will be subject to less damage by the knife. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user148" LastActivityDate="2015-03-28T18:19:22.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="558" CreationDate="2015-03-28T18:26:43.337" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the disadvantages is that end-grain absorbs moisture very well. This means that meat juice will seep in and not come out. Which makes it important to never use your meat board for vegetables. (Good advice for any type of cutting board)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also if you leave it standing in a puddle of water at its center, the center could expand while the edge wouldn't, leading to cracks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2017-01-06T06:09:56.570" LastActivityDate="2017-01-06T06:09:56.570" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="557" CreationDate="2015-03-29T01:20:50.953" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;It doesn't matter except if you're using water-based poly.  If so, the water will rust the steel wool fibers that end up stuck in the pores of the wood and cause rust spots.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer steel wool because it lasts longer and conforms to whatever curves you are smoothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-03-29T01:20:50.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="539" CreationDate="2015-03-29T01:25:17.077" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wondered this for years and so I emailed Christopher Schwarz (former editor of &lt;a href=&quot;http://popularwoodworking.com&quot;&gt;Popular Woodworking&lt;/a&gt; magazine and now owner of &lt;a href=&quot;http://lostartpress.com&quot;&gt;Lost Art Press&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He seems to research historical things very well and he responded that neither he nor anyone else knows for sure.  He said he had asked Roy Underhill (host of PBS's Woodwright's Shop) and a few others.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, nobody knows for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-03-29T01:25:17.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="557" CreationDate="2015-03-29T15:07:50.140" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are happy with the results, then continue as you have! &#xA;Using steel wool or sand paper allows you to create a uniform surface for the next coat of polyurethane, which generally looks nicer, more professionally, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, assuming the finish is dry, there isn't a difference other than the coarseness of the sand paper or steel wool. For some projects, a first pass with a coarse grade and then a finer grade gives a smoother texture to the last coat, especially if the last coat will be thin and glossy. This is most critical where the surface will reflect light, like a table top, since the reflections will show any imperfections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I have used both sand paper and steel wool on the same project depending what is on hand, generally sand paper first and then steel wool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have noticed some finishes (rarely) have a slight issue with the trace amounts of oil in the steel wool. I haven't seen this problem with polyurethane, only with very thin shellac. I haven't had issues with rust myself but glw's observation makes sense. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastEditorUserId="111" LastEditDate="2015-03-30T16:07:03.467" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T16:07:03.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="411" CreationDate="2015-03-29T20:37:55.730" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the answer to this question comes in several parts. I've turned several kinds of wood and have done some amount of wood burning in my younger days. I can't directly speak about pyrography in particular (fun as it sounds) but I am familiar with 'torching' or 'scorching' for certain effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I enjoy turning and carving in poplar, cherry and other clear, hard woods. I tend to stay away from curly maple and the like as it is very hard on my hands (personal preference).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cherry will char, but the difference (especially in the darker varieties/specimens) will be more muted between the char and the natural color. Imagine the difference between and earthen red and dark brown. I've found cherry doesn't produce as dark of an char when heat is applied. It more likely turns to ash, before black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found the lighter the color of wood, the more contrast and visibility you can get between the charred areas and the natural, un-charred areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would try poplar first, then maybe move on to some ash and or soft maple. And as always, I'd keep a rag in a pitcher of water nearby to help control the spread of both heat and burn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck and please, if you're able, share some of your outcomes/projects for the group. This is a very interesting subject and post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastActivityDate="2015-03-29T20:37:55.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="565" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-29T23:43:25.943" Score="6" ViewCount="207" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/267/which-woods-work-well-with-ammonia#comment306_269&quot;&gt;comment&lt;/a&gt; by &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/users/3/dfife&quot;&gt;dfife&lt;/a&gt; on the Q&amp;amp;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/267/which-woods-work-well-with-ammonia&quot;&gt;Which woods work well with ammonia?&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can also soak any piece of wood in tea (or something else high in tannins) and give it a higher degree of tannins. I've done this quite successfully with pine and poplar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to try this, but have some questions about the process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How long should I soak the wood for? Does the length of time vary by species or by how strongly the tea has been brewed?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will the wood warp as it dries, and if so, how can I minimize that?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does the color change as the wood dries? If so, how much, and does the grain become more or less emphasized?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2015-03-29T23:43:25.943" Title="How can I use tea to replicate the look of ammonia fumed wood?" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-03-30T13:57:12.267" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="566" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="569" CreationDate="2015-03-30T01:05:25.610" Score="14" ViewCount="15119" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read various references to people using a crosscut sled on their table saws.  Google brings up hundreds of pages on how to make one but I haven't found much background on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what exactly is a crosscut sled used for and when/why would I want to use one over the miter gauge and fence on a saw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastEditorUserId="11" LastEditDate="2015-03-30T15:44:16.223" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T16:47:14.643" Title="What is a crosscut sled used for?" Tags="|table-saw|jig|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="566" CreationDate="2015-03-30T01:58:26.493" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually,   a crosscut sled is more closely related to the miter gauge than to the fence --  it's a moving platform, guided by the miter gauge slots, with a slot that the blade rises through and rails in front and back perpendicular to that slot. (And typically some other safety features.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage is that they give you more control than the miter gauge does -- you can affix stops on either side of the blade, clamp the workpiece In ways that aren't practical with a miter gauge, handle large pieces more easily (since they're fixed relative to the sled, they're much less likely to twist during a cut -- more precise and safer), etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Downside is that you generally can't use a blade guard with a crosscut sled. On the other hand, the improved ability to make a cut with your hands well clear of the work balances against that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more complete answer is an article, or a series of articles, preferably with pictures; I'm not convinced SE is the best place for that extended discussion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T01:58:26.493" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="557" CreationDate="2015-03-30T02:23:13.473" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding has always been, that the reason for doing any sanding between coats had to do with the grains standing up.  So after the coat dries, especially polly, the grain stands up and feels almost like sandpaper itself.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanding this smooth before the next coat will make the finish be smoother.  I tend to use very fine sandpaper when doing the in between coat sandings.  I will know when it's enough by feel, I'll run my hands over the piece checking for 'rough' spots.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest problem you can have is if your sandpaper is too rough.  It can leave marks that will show through the finish.  The other thing not to do (which my brother discovered to his embarrassment) is don't use mechanical sanders, they can eat right through your coat of finish, letting you start all over again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T02:23:13.473" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="566" CreationDate="2015-03-30T03:42:18.717" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's tackle the second part of your question first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;when/why would I want to use [a crosscut sled] over the fence on a saw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is &lt;em&gt;extremely&lt;/em&gt; unsafe to use your table saw's fence for crosscuts because such a small surface is registered against the fence. It would be easy to twist the workpiece and cause a kickback, or at the very least ruin your workpiece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So what exactly is a crosscut sled used for&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As its name implies, you use a crosscut sled to make crosscuts on a table saw. But that description doesn't even begin to scratch the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You use a crosscut sled to &lt;strong&gt;safely&lt;/strong&gt; make &lt;em&gt;perfect&lt;/em&gt;, repeatable crosscuts on a table saw. I say &lt;em&gt;perfect&lt;/em&gt; because the cuts are dead-accurate without tear-out, and are extremely safe with a well-designed sled. A typical crosscut sled is fixed at 90 degrees, has a zero-clearance kerf, and provides backer support through the blade and for several inches or even feet on both sides of the blade (depending on the size of your crosscut sled and back fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also add stops and clamps to a sled to improve its versatility; for example, to cut other angles or even to rip small parts. You can also quickly crosscut many parts of the same length simply by clamping a stop block (any small scrap piece of wood) to the sled's fence. A sled can ride in a single miter slot like a miter gauge, but many designs use two miter tracks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because both the workpiece and the offcut move with the sled and are backed by a fence perpendicular to the blade, there is a much smaller chance of kickback than with a miter gauge, and neither the workpiece nor the offcut will have blowout as the blade exits the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not uncommon for a woodworker to build multiple crosscut sleds for different purposes--for example, one for large parts, one for small parts, and perhaps if you make boxes, one for cutting the sides of a mitered box with the blade tilted 45 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although you cannot use a blade guard with most crosscut sled designs, you can and should still use your riving knife. Some designs include polycarbonate guards integrated into the miter sled, and many designs include features which ensure your hands remain far away from the saw blade, such as designated hand holds or a windowed box that fully encloses the blade as it exits the back fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crosscut sled's cousin is the miter sled, which similarly makes perfect miter cuts. It's easy to adapt a crosscut sled to a miter sled with the addition of some hold-down clamps, stop blocks, and a scrap piece of wood cut to the exact angle of your miter joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-03-30T16:47:14.643" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T16:47:14.643" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="557" CreationDate="2015-03-30T05:29:00.407" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Either is fine. I tend to use steel wool more often and that is mainly due to the fact that I refinish furniture on a regular basis... and there are curves and grooves that sandpaper just can't handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said if you are working on something old that has damage to it... sand paper can be a lifesaver because it doesn't snag. I have had to do significant rework because the wool snagged on a corner with a little gouge and it pulled off some wood...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for curves definitely wool. For a big flat surface, paper works great too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other note, the higher the sheen the finer I go. For example with a gloss finish (which I would almost never recommend... unless you have a basketball court maybe) I would use 0000 steel wool whereas with a satin finish I tend towards 000.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="212" LastEditorUserId="10942" LastEditDate="2021-08-24T21:18:07.903" LastActivityDate="2021-08-24T21:18:07.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="571" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="572" CreationDate="2015-03-30T14:42:26.963" Score="13" ViewCount="1313" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is related to the question about &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/417/replacing-small-drill-bits-without-buying-new-sets-or-preventing-breaks&quot;&gt;Replacing small drill bits without buying new sets (or preventing breaks)&lt;/a&gt; but I wanted to expand on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I'm just using cheap bits and much like the OP in the above question I am going through them like balsa wood. I also find that when I make pilot holes and countersinks that my wood is still prone to splitting. That and my bits are burning in hardwood (oak I think) so something is wrong there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I always be using brad point bits on wood? It is what they are for is it not? How do I know how big my pilot hole should be? In general I try to use a bit the same size as the shaft of the screw I'm using (width without the threads to be precise). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I make better pilot holes. I've seen videos where you clip the end of a nail and use that but that seems more of a kludge than a solution. Worst case this could be a dupe of the other question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T08:38:27.953" Title="How to make proper pilot holes" Tags="|screws|assembly|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="571" CreationDate="2015-03-30T14:55:43.807" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;For most hard woods using a pilot hole the size of the shaft of the screw should be good enough to prevent splitting, since it is the shaft that would be 'pushing' out on the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some that are hard enough that making the pilot hole larger than the shaft but still smaller than the threads is useful, but these are pretty hard woods and it is mostly to ease the driving of the screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other two issues that could cause splitting would be putting the pilot hole to close to the edge of the board, and/or putting the screw in too tight.  when you have pilot holes and counter sinks in hardwoods, you don't need to over-tighten the screws, good and snug is perfect.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is easy to over-tighten with a power drill and the head of the screw with shaped funnel of the counter sink makes it easy to go to far and split the end of the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Comments from BrownRedHawk&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if your bits are burning, they could be overly dull and/or not enough feed pressure. Allowing the bits cutting face to slide can cause this. I've also had second hand bits sharpened inappropriately so the cutting face is narrower than the shank of the bit that caused excessive burning and poorly shaped holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-03-31T02:20:38.710" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T02:20:38.710" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="573" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="574" CreationDate="2015-03-30T15:14:04.603" Score="26" ViewCount="82022" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on what you're reading, tung oil cures in &lt;a href=&quot;https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rec.crafts.woodturning/6eRmxWR97q0/VwbrU-L6f8wJ&quot;&gt;a day&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I use Minwax tung oil on all my turningings. Two Coats ussually. After the&#xA;  second coat, I buff with the Beall Buffing system, Ussually about 6 to 24&#xA;  hours after applying last coat of tung oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/finishing/oil-finishes-their-history-and-use&quot;&gt;a few days&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... tung oil is too difficult for most people to use by itself as a&#xA;  finish. You apply tung oil just like linseed oil or oil/varnish blend,&#xA;  but you have to sand tung oil after every coat, not just after the&#xA;  first, and it takes five to seven coats, allowing two to three days&#xA;  drying time between each, to achieve a smooth, attractive sheen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?127931-Tung-Oil-Will-Not-Dry&amp;amp;p=1291637#post1291637&quot;&gt;or several weeks&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Depends... true 100% pure tung oil needs about 2 weeks to cure... why do they sell this stuff as a finish? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the real story behind tung oil curing time?  How long do I have to wait between coats?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2020-05-15T05:28:42.683" Title="How long does it take tung oil to cure?" Tags="|finishing|tung-oil|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="573" CreationDate="2015-03-30T15:14:04.603" Score="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;In general, I would avoid turning to discussion forums when trying to find advice about tung oil as it’s very likely the person talking has innocently confused the product that they are using.  If you do enough research you will eventually find contradictory information about everything.  (if only there were a place where people could vote on different perspectives and a consensus could be built from our collective experiences!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the unclear and deceptive labeling, the best practice when using a tung oil product is to allow yourself the time to experiment with scrap first, and follow the instructions on the label.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Explanation&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the confusion comes from the fact that you don’t have to wait for a complete cure to apply additional coats.  However, the primary reason there is so much conflicting advice is that they are so many different types of products labeled as “Tung Oil”. There are the three major varieties:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Pure, Unadulterated Tung Oil&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably the least common variation, pure, unadulterated tung oil is the most difficult to work with (that’s why the other variations are so common). It doesn’t penetrate into the wood as well as the others and takes longest to cure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A full cure can take 15 - 30 days, depending on the nature of the application and the temperature, humidity, and air circulation of the curing atmosphere. However, you only need to wait one or two days between coats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Modified or Polymerized Tung Oil&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because pure, unadulterated tung oil takes so long to cure and has poor penetrating properties, many companies sell tung oil that has been heated to encourage polymerization. Depending on for how long its been heated, the result may too thick to work with and so polymerized tung oil is often mixed with solvents by the manufacturer to aid penetration and workability.  Probably there are varieties out there that have solvents but haven’t been polymerized. Depending on the solvent, modified tung oil may not be food-safe like pure tung oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that even products labeled as “pure” tung oil can be polymerized and have different drying and penetrating behavior than pure, unadulterated tung oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The time between coats depends on the formula and amount of heating done by the manufacturer. You’re best bet is to follow the times listed on the can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Complete Impostors&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many products labeled “Tung Oil Finish” are actually more like a wiping varnish than an oil. In my experience, these are often the only variety sold in the Big Box home improvement stores. They leave a finish that resembles tung oil but you’ll often read people complaining that they have no tung oil at all. Only the manufacturers know for sure because tung oil is not hazardous and therefore doesn’t need to be reported on an MSDS. They have much different food-safe and water-protection properties than tung oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, the curing time and time between coats for these products will depend on what the manufacturer uses. A good first approximation should be listed in the instructions on the can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T15:14:04.603" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="575" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-30T15:42:16.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many different ways to assemble wood working projects and there are a whole host of different hardware to do the job.  Questions about nails, screws, bolts, knockdown, hinges etc should use this tag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-03-30T15:42:16.160" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T15:42:16.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="576" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-30T15:42:16.160" Score="0" Body="Nails, screws, bolts, knock-down hardware etc." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-03-30T15:42:16.160" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T15:42:16.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="577" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-30T15:47:21.257" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hand planes are shaping tools where a shaped blade (usually straight) is run over a piece of wood to shape it to a desired result (usually flat). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the most common use is to flatten a piece of wood, there are many other hand planes that put different shapes to the wood, some are rabbet/rebate planes to create a groove on the edge of a board, others are rounded, like the speciality planes for musical instruments and for making spars. There are also numerous other shapes possible; in the past all mouldings were created by planing and there were a correspondingly large number of shaped planes made, called &lt;em&gt;moulding planes&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T19:58:28.193" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T19:58:28.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="578" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-30T15:47:21.257" Score="0" Body="There are many different planes for many different uses, but all shape a piece of wood to meet desired needs." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-03-30T15:47:21.257" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T15:47:21.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="579" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-30T15:55:55.077" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The grain at the ends of boards are like a collection of straws and as such can cause problems with a piece.  Sometimes it's because they absorb to much stain making them stand out, or is just might be because it is just visually different.  Whatever the reason end grain often needs to be considered and treated differently than the other faces of a board and this leads to questions on how.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-03-30T15:55:55.077" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T15:55:55.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="580" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-30T15:55:55.077" Score="0" Body="About the grain at the ends of boards, special treatment, usage, hiding etc." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-03-30T15:55:55.077" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T15:55:55.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="581" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-30T16:00:05.970" Score="7" ViewCount="870" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make wooden curtain rods and curtain rings, and finish them so that the rings glide as easily as possible along the rods. I'm leaning toward red oak, but I'm still considering other hardwoods too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past, I've always used polyurethane as a finish. However, I feel that poly wouldn't work well in this situation because it's in a window, so subject to solar heating, which can soften it a little and make it tacky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My requirements for the finish would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;smooth finish with low friction so that the rings will glide easily.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stable over a wide temperature range; won't soften in direct sunlight, and can withstand any condensation that forms on cold nights.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;UV resistance is a nice-to-have but the windows are new and block most of it, so this would be lower priority than the other requirements.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be an appropriate finish to use for this project?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2015-03-30T16:06:17.113" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T15:19:34.337" Title="What finish should I use for a curtain rod and rings?" Tags="|finish|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="582" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-30T16:18:21.967" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Water can ruin any wood working project if given enough time.  Protecting it from the elements is an important part of any project.  How to do so, what to do it with, when/how often should it be reapplied etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-03-30T16:18:21.967" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T16:18:21.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="583" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-30T16:18:21.967" Score="0" Body="Water is a serious threat to wood projects, Keeping the water out is important.  Techniques, products safety." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-03-30T16:18:21.967" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T16:18:21.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="581" CreationDate="2015-03-30T17:01:01.423" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would just use several coats of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Varnish&quot;&gt;varnish&lt;/a&gt; of your choice because it will protect the wood itself from wear. Polyurethane will be reasonably wear resistant but more difficult to repair when it does wear, since the coats are distinct layers and you'll have to completely sand off any layers that are partly worn through. Laquer, on the other hand, will be easier to repair because each new coat burns into the existing coat, and you can just apply new lacquer to any worn areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you have light entering the house from a skylight or other window and shining directly on the curtain rod, I don't think you'll need to worry about direct sunlight. Typically the curtain rod is hung above the window and does not receive direct sunlight through the window over which it is mounted. I'm not sure whether any heat radiating upward from closed curtains would be intense enough to affect the curtain rod's finish, though maybe it's an issue in hot regions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also not sure that condensation would be a serious issue, but perhaps if you leave your windows open at night or have poorly-insulated windows in a cold region, it could be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to simply use a hard, wear-resistant wood for the curtain rod, along with an oil-based finish and maybe some wax, though I think this would require more maintenance and the wax may not hold up as well if you have a significant amount of heat radiating from the curtains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-03-30T17:42:44.107" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T17:42:44.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="585" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-30T17:06:03.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dust collection is important in any wood shop and there are different ways to do it as well as many different types of machines to do the job.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-03-30T17:06:03.870" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T17:06:03.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="586" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-30T17:06:03.870" Score="0" Body="Woodworking projects often create sawdust, how to collect it, equipment, features setup." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-03-30T17:06:03.870" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T17:06:03.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="507" CreationDate="2015-03-30T17:49:45.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a reason why koa is so expensive: it truly is one of a kind.  In fact, not even all koa looks like that pictured.  I have some that is much plainer in appearance.  Other woods that have similar hues usually don't have the figuring, and vice versa.  If you are interested in the color palette, you can look at woods like cocobolo, bocote, ziricote and other members of the rosewood family, but be aware that those will not be much less expensive.  All of the pau ferro I have used is not like that pictured in the other answer, but wood varies greatly even within a species.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T17:49:45.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="588" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-30T18:05:42.473" Score="0" ViewCount="145" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been working with some wood that I was given, but I don't know what type of wood it is. It's a light coloured wood similar to pine, but it has a greenish tint in parts of it. It's got small black streaks inside the wood that look like they might be small knots. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it would be great to identify the wood in question it would be better if I could go through a process to identify it myself. Is it really just a case of being told what different woods are and learning slowly over time or is there a way I can narrow it down myself? I've tried looking on www.wood-database.com but there are just so many woods on there and they all start to look the same to me after a while. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a good list, maybe, of the ten most common types of wood that I'm likely to see (for England)? If I could learn that, I'm sure I'd be able to identify most of the wood I'm likely to see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T19:02:35.787" Title="Wood identification" Tags="|wood-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2015-03-30T21:34:20.057" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="539" CreationDate="2015-03-30T18:07:18.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always liked this answer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some have said early handsaws had an auxiliary handle near the toe to guide the flexible saws and prevent them from bending. The nib is said by them to be a vestigial handle which had become ornamental. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.disstonianinstitute.com/faq.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;the Disstonian Institute&quot;&gt;the Disstonian Institute&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T18:07:18.263" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="425" CreationDate="2015-03-30T18:12:46.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;How 'by hand' do you want? I suspect you could chisel them out if you are limiting yourself to hand tools. Really though, if you don't have a biscuit joiner, I'm not sure you'd get much advantage by taking the time to make them by hand. While they do provide some added glue area, their primary purpose is to help with aligning for glue ups. That isn't something you really 'need', but more something that is useful in a production environment where you can't afford to spend time futzing over glue ups and dedicate all your clamps and space to them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T18:12:46.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="425" CreationDate="2015-03-30T18:13:49.463" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally what you are asking is I want to make a joint between two pieces of wood where a biscuit cut and a wood biscuit is a modern solution. Search for dowel joinery to get way more detail than you need or want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try using a drill and a dowel to make a joint. This is probably one of the simplest ways to attach boards together with the simplest of tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make or buy dowel alignment pins if you need more accuracy than measuring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="225" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T18:13:49.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="588" CreationDate="2015-03-30T18:23:55.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking on a wood type database would be the best way to do it yourself but it can be a tedious process. If you post a picture someone can help you identify the wood in question. Conversely you can give a really good description and maybe we can help point you in the right direction. For example pine has certain characteristics and you may use one of those in the description and we can help you out that way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="105" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T18:23:55.420" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="499" CreationDate="2015-03-30T18:29:43.767" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started turning just about 4 years ago and jumped in with a starter set of tools and upgraded since then. This was about 7 lathe tools in a starter set and I had to also buy something to sharpen them with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a new recommendation that has come to market in just the past couple of years that I think will encourage new folks without getting into tool overload.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my is the Tools you need 101:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Lathe&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2) A parting tool. You need one, preferably narrow kerf, end of story full stop.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3) A multi bit tool interchangeable cutting head on a tool. Circle, Square, Diamond point.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;4) Diamond sharpening plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few reliable brands: Rockler with their house brand, Easy woodworking tools, and Robert Sorby (others?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each tool has a set of Pro/Cons. I think you can get down two 2 tools if you go with the Robert Sorby solution. If you choose the other you can do it with 4 tools. This is enough to pretty much do 90% of woodturning; hollow forms being the need for more specialty things, and threaded boxes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HSS (High speed steel) and Carbide do not have the same grain structure they behave somewhat differently and there are pro/con to using one over the other. Options for both on one tool are fantastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big upside is you don't need to buy a sharpening system from the get-go (grinder, or belt) but rather just a diamond lap plate is sufficient. You remove the cutting head from the tool and just lap the cutter head on the diamond plate using water for lubrication.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you start you can always add more tools ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS. If you get into turning buy a  4 Jaw Chuck (number 5 on my list).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="225" LastEditorUserId="180" LastEditDate="2015-03-30T19:03:13.450" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T19:03:13.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="571" CreationDate="2015-03-30T18:40:42.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to put a piece of masking tape over the wood before drilling a pilot hole. It's not 100% fool-proof, but does cut down significantly on splitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="229" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T18:40:42.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="588" CreationDate="2015-03-30T18:46:03.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can't be sure without a picture, but sounds a bit like poplar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="229" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T18:46:03.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="597" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-30T19:50:01.410" Score="1" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a piece of wood and I was trying to figure out what the type was for example: Oak, Pine or maybe even the specific species given enough characteristics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What tools or resources could I use to help determine this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-06-19T01:21:23.950" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T01:21:23.950" Title="How can I identify a type of wood" Tags="|wood-identification|wood|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2015-03-30T21:32:51.450" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="115" CreationDate="2015-03-30T20:21:23.163" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;If nothing else &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Wood Database&lt;/a&gt; exists solely for this purpose and has a great deal of information about all its woods in its database. The database contains picutres of all its known woods and details &lt;em&gt;where known&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For aiding in identification, most woods will have published at least the following characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Common Name&lt;/strong&gt;: e.g Marblewood. Yes in many cases if you already know the name then what is the point? It never hurt to be sure about your source or assumption.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Distribution&lt;/strong&gt;: Where this wood is typically cultivated from&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Color/Appearance&lt;/strong&gt;: What it looks like.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Grain/Texture&lt;/strong&gt;: What the end grain looks like. Site includes pictures under microscope. Some small handheld magnifiers can help in this area. You would need a clean cut in order to examine the end grain properly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Odor&lt;/strong&gt;: Some woods have an smell about them which can help narrow type.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Related Species&lt;/strong&gt;: Many woods fall under an umbrella. Finding a similar one can lead you to the one you are looking for.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These property names are used specifically for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Wood Database&lt;/a&gt; but using any resource would benefit from you knowing as many of the above as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note on searching by region&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally had an issue matching a sample from Indonesia. Using a search engine with &lt;code&gt;Wood-DataBase&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Indonesia&lt;/code&gt; narrowed the field for me since you cannot do that on the site itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wood was from a pallet and had a country stamp from &amp;quot;IN&amp;quot; which narrowed it for me. For those on the edge of your seat I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; it was &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/hardwoods/kempas/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kempas&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Not an exact science&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To Quote &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/the-truth-behind-wood-identification/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Eric Meier&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[T]he more I learn and discover, the more I realize how very little I know. The more accurate and thorough my identification process becomes, the more certain I become that I really cannot guarantee that I am correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Identifying wood can be tough especially when you know nothing about where it came from. You cannot always expect and answer, sometimes not even a right one. In a perfect world you would know what tree it came from and use the bark, leaves and local to hone your choices to a select few.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Seeking Outside Help&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not a guarentee but the person/people responsible for the Wood-Database also have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.facebook.com/WoodDatabase&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;facebook page&lt;/a&gt; and has been known to help users there as well with wood id's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still are stuck after looking through their website they recommend that you contact &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/research/centers/woodanatomy/wood_idfactsheet.php&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Forestry Products Laboratory&lt;/a&gt; as they will allow you to send them samples for identification. Read the page linked for more information but the most important point from the site would be&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Center for Wood Anatomy Research will identify a maximum of &lt;b&gt;five&#xA;wood samples&lt;/b&gt; per household or business per calendar year as a &lt;b&gt;free&#xA;public service&lt;/b&gt; to &lt;i&gt;U.S. citizens&lt;/i&gt;. We try to accommodate inquiries from&#xA;non-citizens, but such requests are typically assigned a low priority.&#xA;Persons or businesses in need of more than five identifications per&#xA;year should seek a private consultant to provide this service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;The highlighting and emphasis is my own. Note that non-U.S can use the service but are not prioritized&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;What is off topic&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with questions about a &lt;em&gt;specific&lt;/em&gt; wood sample: Most of the time you would need to include a picture so that people can see what you are talking about. Pictures are not text based so new users would have an issue finding your post which reduces it value to the Community.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, this would be very subjective since since we cannot see the magnified grain, smell or other properties that would lead to &lt;strong&gt;guesses&lt;/strong&gt;. Even if someone was &lt;em&gt;super&lt;/em&gt; sure that does not mean they were right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please be aware of these points if you have any question about &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/wood-identification&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;wood-identification&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;wood-identification&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Credit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Added comments about this topic into post from &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/users/191/tx-turner&quot;&gt;TX Turner&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/users/180/daniel-ball&quot;&gt;Daniel Ball&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T00:28:35.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="600" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-30T22:07:01.157" Score="2" ViewCount="1523" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our tree was cut down, I've asked the guys to save me a few of slices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1E0Y1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are about 3-4cm thick. &#xA;Is there any simple way to dry them without having them crack and fall apart?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-03-31T00:30:13.223" LastActivityDate="2023-01-03T16:22:33.283" Title="How to dry Blue Spruce slabs?" Tags="|wood-drying|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="600" CreationDate="2015-03-30T23:51:13.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you have slices across the grain like that, your best bet to not split would be to seal the whole thing and don't let it dry out, or at the very least slow the drying process down dramatically.  Any kind of normal air drying and they will get at least one split in them, like a pie with a piece missing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On top of that spruce and fir tend to get brittle when that thin and cut in that way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-03-31T00:43:06.590" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T00:43:06.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="602" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-31T00:40:12.913" Score="8" ViewCount="21744" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some pallet wood that I think is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/hardwoods/kempas/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kempas&lt;/a&gt;. Before I started to clean, cut and sand it the wood had a nice orange brown colour. After cleaning and sanding much of that colour was gone.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to finish the wood to bring some of that colour back. A collegue had mentioned using oil but for this particular use I am making some blocks that will hold up paper like small calendars and other paper (For indoor use so the sun should not be a major factor). Oil would seep into the paper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do with this wood to bring out its colour and finish it so that the colour is &quot;sealed&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While answers about stains are valid I was hoping for something that I could without chemicals and fumes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-04-08T17:45:09.037" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T17:45:09.037" Title="How to finish a piece to bring out its colour" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="602" CreationDate="2015-03-31T00:56:52.853" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use Carnuba Wax for a most of my turning projects, and it will work just as well for a project like this.  Carnuba Wax is the hardest natural wax out there and it also happens to be food safe and hypo-allergenic. It will give you a similar pop in color as an oil finish but once it dries you can buff it and it won't leave an oily residue on your paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T00:56:52.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="604" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="605" CreationDate="2015-03-31T01:04:20.377" Score="10" ViewCount="18262" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am about to inherit some all-wood bookcases that are about an inch and a half thick. They have at least one ugly coat of paint on them. Stripping it would not be worth the effort and I would think a planer could make easy work of them instead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that it might dull the knives more than just the wood alone? The potential of the knives chipping might be a important factor as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For arguments sake lets assume the paint is not lead based. I still plan on testing it but that is not the focus of the question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-05-20T19:57:12.543" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T19:57:12.543" Title="Can you use painted wood in a planer without damaging the tool?" Tags="|safety|plane|paint|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="604" CreationDate="2015-03-31T01:12:27.683" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that it isn't lead-based, I would probably tend to use an old set of blades if you have them.  Some of that paint was incredible.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend running all of the boards through on an old set of blades at the smallest cut to take off the paint.  If it isn't a latex based paint it will likely ruin a set of blades.  Basically you just want to skim off as much paint and as little wood as you can get away with. (this will also save your good blades if there is any metal pieces hiding under the paint too)  Then after they have all been run through put in new blades in and run them through to give them a nice clean cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I generally try other means myself but I have put some painted and stained boards through to save me some time and it will work, it helps if you have your planer hooked up to a good dust collection system, otherwise I would highly recommend using a high quality dust mask even if the paint isn't lead-based.  And actually both safety measures would be a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T01:12:27.683" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="604" CreationDate="2015-03-31T01:13:53.533" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've sent painted wood through my surface planer and did not notice any particular dulling effect.  This was typical interior latex paint; perhaps another type might behave differently.  I suspect that the largest dulling effect would come from dirty painted wood rather than simply painted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T01:13:53.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="602" CreationDate="2015-03-31T01:21:03.617" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some woods like cherry are very pale when freshly surfaced but will darken with time.  Here is a photo I took of an experiment I did a couple years ago.  &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xSAk7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;I planed this (oddly shaped) piece, put a drink coaster on it and left it outside in the full sun for about four hours.  As you can see, simply exposing the fresh cherry to sunlight for one afternoon darkened it dramatically.  Since that time, the piece has aged to an even darker color.  Perhaps your wood is a species that does this as well.  You could put one of your pale pieces out in the sun for a day and see what happens.  If you do, I'd put something opaque on it like a coaster or coffee mug so that you can see the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as oil finishes go, as long as the oil finish has cured, it should be fine.  I only have direct experience with Watco Danish Oil and it is not a pure oil.  I think it is a thinned boiled linseed oil with perhaps a bit of varnish in it. To me this is a good thing since it will fully cure in 24 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any finish will darken the wood at least a bit and thus enhance the color.  I have no data to back this up but it seems to me that Watco Danish Oil enhances the natural color better than shellac or polyurethane varnish.  Even wax will enhance the color as noted in another post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2015-03-31T16:56:48.450" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T16:56:48.450" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="608" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1832" CreationDate="2015-03-31T02:52:23.210" Score="10" ViewCount="702" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to buy a 12&quot; miter saw, but there are so many different adjectives describing the tool: basic miter saw; compound miter saw; sliding compound miter saw; dual sliding compound miter saw, and I'm sure I've missed a few.  I would be using the miter saw to cut trim molding, so which adjectives should I look for in my miter saw search?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="239" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-01-12T14:12:12.793" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T14:12:12.793" Title="Miter Saw Capabilities" Tags="|miter-saw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="450" CreationDate="2015-03-31T02:55:24.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say there are 3 considerations&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lint&lt;/strong&gt;:  The smallest amount of lint will make a finish bumpy. Provided you know which types of cloth will or won't leave lint, I see no benefit in the manufactured ones.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Absorption&lt;/strong&gt;:  Some fabrics have too much of a synthetic fiber content and won't hold enough of the finish to be useful. They can have a 'smearing' effect.  You'll know as soon as you try something like a sock with poly blend.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Supply&lt;/strong&gt;:  I have no lack of household cloths.  My favourites are dish cloths and dish towels.  If you have a supply problem, then you can either buy manufactured ones, or spend $2.00 on some flea market t-shirts.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the first two considerations are a matter of experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third is the only reason I would suggest buying manufactured cloths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="241" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-03-31T03:43:19.520" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T03:43:19.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="571" CreationDate="2015-03-31T04:47:02.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the screw has threads that stand proud of the shaft, then it may be necessary to drill two different-sized holes:  the base piece receives a hole determined by the size of the shaft (softer woods may receive a slightly smaller pilot than harder woods); the piece being attached requires a hole that will allow the threads to pass through easily, so that the threading action pulls the two pieces together.  I have a set of bits that do both at once, but I find them a bit small, so I regularly have to go up a size (use #10 for a #8 screw, etc.).  Maybe it's just my kit (Makita); I haven't tried others.&#xA;Also, make sure you're using a fine thread screw, if you're working with hard woods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="242" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T04:47:02.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="602" CreationDate="2015-03-31T06:19:18.667" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend a natural stain (i.e. no pigment) to bring out the grain and color.  Did this with floors made of hickory and it turned out fantastic.  After the stain simply apply poly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="212" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T06:19:18.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="602" CreationDate="2015-03-31T07:43:40.217" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A collegue had mentioned using oil but oil would seep into the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The oils usually used for wood finishing are called &lt;em&gt;drying oils&lt;/em&gt;, once dry there's nothing to soak into the paper. The common drying oils are boiled linseed oil (shortened to BLO often) and tung oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The colour your wood had before you worked on it was due to light exposure and exposure to the elements. Some of that will come back in time naturally, but it will take a while, and you may not get exactly the same colour again with it sitting in an interior setting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However BLO has a natural brown-yellow colour and it adds this to wood when used as a finish. Products such as the previously mentioned &quot;Danish oil&quot; also usually add some colour to the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T07:43:40.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="604" CreationDate="2015-03-31T07:50:20.133" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're unlikely to notice any particular dulling effect from running painted surfaces through your planer. Some paints &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; made from harder pigments but they're not common in indoor paints these days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is another potential issue though, some paints get very 'gummy' when heated by friction and you could get some residue sticking to the blades or other parts of the interior. However this should easily clean up using acetone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would actually recommend you take one heavier pass rather than a number of very light passes. This way the blades contact the paint minimally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T07:50:20.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="573" CreationDate="2015-03-31T08:02:14.067" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What's the real story behind tung oil curing time?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like all things in this area there are complications and potential for confusion. As already covered, many tung oil products on the market aren't tung oil to begin with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where you are talking about actual tung oil, there are then various types. The product container may not specify how, or even if, the oil has been modified to improve drying. You might guess it has if it has a short drying time listed, but there are still unknowables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How long do I have to wait between coats?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the key part of your questions I guess — to a degree it doesn't matter what you're using, you just care about when you can re-coat. And the answer to that is unfortunately, it depends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously it depends on the product, for the reasons listed previously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But local conditions play a huge part in drying times. At higher temperatures and lower humidities most finishes dry (and then cure) faster, ay lower temperatures and higher humidities drying and curing are retarded. And at very low temperatures proper drying may not occur at all. because of this many products have a minimum usage temperature listed which users should pay attention to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T08:02:14.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="557" CreationDate="2015-03-31T08:14:44.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sanding between coats of poly is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; a must-do. It's not required for a proper bond to form (the most persistent myth) and it's not required for a good, flat varnish job. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Poly bonds perfectly well to itself, gloss surface or no gloss surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do want to sand to flatten and smooth off — for example if you're going for a super-glossy 'boardroom table' level of finish — then it's better to sand in one go right at the end (after a suitable curing period, which could be weeks or longer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reasons you may need to sand between coats are to &quot;de nib&quot;, that is to take off dust specs and knock the tops off any bubbles in the finish. You can also sand to take care of drips etc., but proper application technique should avoid those. This is an area where 'prevention is better than cure' definitely applies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T08:14:44.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="571" CreationDate="2015-03-31T08:38:27.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I also find that when I make pilot holes and countersinks that my wood is still prone to splitting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing this suggests is that the holes aren't large enough, however some woods are particularly prone to splitting. The size of the hole in relation to the thickness of the wood is also a big factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read suggestions that you should slightly over-drill the clearance holes to help prevent this, but this is bad practice. Just shy of the screw's total length is the correct depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;That and my bits are burning in hardwood (oak I think) so something is wrong there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drill more slowly. Some woods are prone to scorching, oak is one, but slowing down is rarely a bad idea anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not a huge deal if you get some scorching in screw clearance holes (it is when drilling for dowels as it can prevent a proper glue joint from forming) but it is still best to avoid it if possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also holding the drill as straight as possible can help, so that the shaft of the bit doesn't rub the hole, but you can still get burning when using a drill press so this isn't a sure fix. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T08:38:27.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="604" CreationDate="2015-03-31T10:51:02.920" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found that pickling agents and scraper are a really ugly matter (and probably unhealthy even though nowadays it says &quot;bio&quot; on the label) and success is, well, &lt;em&gt;mildly impressive&lt;/em&gt;. It's more impressive what drops of that nasty crap do to anything you &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; want pickled (including tools and clothes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plane surely does the job (tried that once) but it's a bit like trimming your lawn with a flamethrower. Sure enough, it's a clean surface afterwards, but it's quite abrasive. If there is any kind of ornament (e.g. a bevelled or rounded edge) you will lose detail, and if there is a verneer over the edges (assuming it's not massive wood) you may damage that. Also, on any kind of plywood (wood core or otherwise) you can &lt;em&gt;easily&lt;/em&gt; damage the surface beyond repair by cutting away the topmost layer of veneer.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Now to the actual question, is it safe for the plane? It will sure need some cleaning, but with most paints (especially old ones), I would seriously doubt that it will do any damage to the plane. There certainly exist paints which are about as hard as glass, but if you have one of these, you will know (you can tell immediately by looking at it). It's unlikely that you'll find one of the super-hard paints on some inherited bookcase.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Paint (old paint in particular) may of course contain metals (above all, lead), but hard wood is much harder than lead, so if that was a problem, you shouldn't plane any common hardwood like e.g. oak either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, I found that simply using 60-grain sandpaper (and later grinding &quot;up&quot; to 120 and 180) works &lt;strong&gt;wonders&lt;/strong&gt; on old paint. Don't even need an electric tool, a plain old manual sanding block and going with the grain does it really, really good (and with a pleasing outcome).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Also, with sand paper you can go into the edges without taking the whole bookcase apart. It's a bit of fiddling, but you can do it. With a plane, you must take &lt;em&gt;everything&lt;/em&gt; apart, there's no alternative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="135" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T10:51:02.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="261" CreationDate="2015-03-31T11:11:12.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a well known solution in the wooden chair production. They are mostly using kiln dried wood at ~15% humidity. The steaming procedure recommendation is: 1hour for 1cm thickness under pressure of 1atm of 100% saturated steam. After bending the workpiece has to be dried and clamped in jigs in a drying chamber or in a high-frequency press.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="248" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2017-01-06T06:21:27.360" LastActivityDate="2017-01-06T06:21:27.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="608" CreationDate="2015-03-31T12:42:18.387" Score="16" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Standard&lt;/strong&gt; means that the blade will pivot around the horizontal axis, but remains 90° to the bed of the saw. This is the most basic variation, and is simply a powered version of grandpa's old miter box.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Compound&lt;/strong&gt; means that the blade tilts on the vertical axis as well as pivoting around the horizontal. Other than a few specialized models (mostly for cutting metal and/or cinder block, from my experience), most miter saws will be compound.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sliding&lt;/strong&gt; means that the entire cutter head moves forward and back. This will give you the ability to cut wider boards while only using a smaller blade. This is usually added on to a compound miter saw, so it's the greatest combination of features. Note that if it has a smaller blade, the smaller blade will reduce the depth of cut you can make.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either a compound or sliding compound would allow you to cut trim molding. You could probably do it on a 7¼&quot; or 10&quot; saw, but the 12&quot; will give you more flexibility, especially if you ever need to cut large crown molding or find yourself using it for any other projects. (Due to the angles involved, a 12&quot; blade may be &lt;em&gt;required&lt;/em&gt; to cut all but the smallest crown molding.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used my 12&quot; compound miter saw to cut vinyl siding, and having a sliding head would have been great for that because I didn't have enough depth - I had to make part of the cut, then turn it over and realign to finish the cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other features to look for would be an integrated laser sight to ease line up of the cut, and accessories specifically made for your brand, such as stops or stands. The importance of those would depend on whether you're doing a little work around your house or planning on some professional quantity output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T12:42:18.387" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="621" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="666" CreationDate="2015-03-31T13:12:20.803" Score="7" ViewCount="1946" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to build a tabletop out of walnut that will be exposed to sunlight during the day.  I've read that the color of walnut can fade over the time, possibly due to exposure from sunlight. Is there anything I can do in terms of finishing or caring for the top to help prevent the color from fading over the years?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-04-16T22:32:07.560" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T02:28:57.580" Title="What can I do to help keep walnut from fading over time?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="621" CreationDate="2015-03-31T13:34:29.013" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep it out of direct sunlight is the best bet.  However, the other option would be to use a light Walnut stain before you finish it.  The stain would be less likely to fade, and while the wood will still likely fade some the stain will keep it from becoming too pale.  At least long enough it will need to be refinished from wear...  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some Walnut in a book shelf in my office and it's been there for 6-7 years, it does not have direct sunlight and I haven't noticed any fading yet. (didn't use stain either.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T13:34:29.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="623" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-31T14:05:15.387" Score="6" ViewCount="247" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a dining room with some nice oak wainscoting, ceiling trim and faux beams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also four windows, and two doors. All with trim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have stripped off all of the paint applied by prior owners and done an extensive amount of sanding to prepare the wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to use a dark walnut stain on everything, but I'm not sure of the logistics of the endeavor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it doable for a homeowner?  Can I break it up into smaller tasks, or do I need to stain everything all at once?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T14:29:04.813" Title="Should I attempt to stain to all of the trim in a room (floor to ceiling)?" Tags="|finishing|stain|staining|refinishing|trim|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="623" CreationDate="2015-03-31T14:08:39.323" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since stain gets darker the longer you let it sit, you'll want to keep the time the stain is on consistent. The biggest advantage to doing it all at once is that you can develop a rhythm to it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to break it into sub-projects, there shouldn't be any issue with that, you may want to use a timer to keep track of how long the stain's on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's certainly doable by a home-owner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've not done staining before, and can get some window trim off, you may want to do some test staining on the back of the wood to see how long to let the stain sit to get the color you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T14:08:39.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="623" CreationDate="2015-03-31T14:29:04.813" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you as a home owner do this? Yes, absolutely! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way is to buy a stain finish combo.   Miniwax (and many others) have a stain and poly or stain and some other finish mixed together.  What is great about this is that it is treated similar to a paint, you can brush it on, it generally has a shallower stain but usually pretty even and so takes a lot less skill to get it right.  Also when you are done it doesn't need another coat of finish (though if one coat is the color you are going for, a second coat of clear wouldn't hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would also make it easier to be consistent when staining all the wainscoting, you can stop at easier places and continue later if needed.  Of course you will need to have good ventilation (no matter which products you decide to use) and drop cloths and such to catch dripping and other issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T14:29:04.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="604" CreationDate="2015-03-31T14:50:57.483" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I only have one set of knives for my current planer and will soon be installing a helical head. I know a lot of people switch to an old set of knives to clean off paint, but I've also thought about dedicating a cheap, old lunchbox planer to paint and dirt removal. If you have a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of reclaimed lumber to process, using an old set of knives or a dedicated planer will certainly get the job done quick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I don't have a second set of knives, I've been using the process below on a piece of lumber before sending it through my planer to try to avoid dulling or gumming up the knives. Even though the helical head has carbide cutters that will stay sharp longer, I'll probably still follow this process since (a) I still want to prolong the life and avoid gumming up each cutter and (b) it would be a pain to rotate all the cutters to a dull side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if it's painted, use a carbide paint scraper and/or an aggressive sander to remove any glue and most of the paint (not because I'm worried about the paint dulling the cutters, but because I don't want it gumming up anything in my planer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brush it with a stiff-bristled wire brush to remove any embedded dirt and grit that could dull the knives (especially an issue with lumber that has been outside or that has been stored a long time)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;visually check for any nails, staples, etc., that I didn't catch before scraping and brushing (if you have a metal detector wand, also use that)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you're not concerned about gumming up the knives or cutters, I'd still scrape off any loose paint, hit each board with a wire brush, and do one last check for embedded metal before running it through your planer...unless you have a second set of knives or a second planer that's dedicated to the task of cleaning up reclaimed boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-03-31T15:01:00.620" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T15:01:00.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="581" CreationDate="2015-03-31T15:19:34.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would think an oil or stain would do the trick. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It soaks into the wood, so it shouldn't produce any stickiness when heated.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wear would be along the top of the rod which isn't visible from the ground&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wear would be along the inside of the top of the rings which could be turned to give them more life before refinishing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As rob indicated, it's not really in direct sunlight, so fading shouldn't be a significant issue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T15:19:34.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="602" CreationDate="2015-03-31T15:49:00.487" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good question. Several others have offered good suggestions. Let me add a couple more. I've never worked with this particular wood, but here's been my experience with others. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tung oil (100% pure tung oil, not tung oil finish) tends to make the grain pop. It also adds a nice warmth to wood. I've also experimented with boiled linseed oil, but didn't like the results (at least on walnut and birch). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Letting the wood bake in the sun (as mentioned by glw). I've had LOTS of success with poplar in sun baking. After spending an afternoon in the Oklahoma sun, all the greens turn deep brown and all the light areas turn a warm orange. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Oil-based varnish. Like tung oil, this tends to make the grain pop and warm it up. I do not recommend a water-based finish for that--it tends to retain the wood's original color (which, in some instances, may be exactly what you &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; want....e.g., I almost always finish maple with a water-based finished because I like its natural color.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, here's some examples of things I've had success with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sun-baked poplar desk, tung oil finish, topped with oil-based varnish (polyurethane):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v94eY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Walnut box with tung oil only:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UYzv4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Walnut baby bed with tung oil + polyurethane:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fSJuV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Birch countertops with tung oil + polyurethane:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EWgR3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A jewelry box made of walnut (tung oil + lacquer) and maple (sans tung oil + lacquer)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8IgkQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T15:49:00.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="629" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-31T15:58:05.663" Score="6" ViewCount="500" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard it said that one should always acclimate wood to one's woodshop before milling the lumber (so it can adjust to humidity and stabilize it's size). I've also heard that cutting/milling lumber releases the internal tension of the wood and that a woodworker should make rough cuts, then let the wood sit again before tackling the final project. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of a good rule of thumb for the number of days wood should acclimate and under what stages? Assuming the wood has already been properly dried, what would be the proper sequence of steps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing it should be something like this: After purchasing the lumber, let it sit in your shop for xx number of days. Then, rough cut all pieces and let sit for another xx days. Subsequently, mill and cut to final width then let sit in the environment it will reside for another xx days, then glue up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T16:24:13.237" Title="Proper sequence of acclimating wood for building" Tags="|wood-movement|milling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="600" CreationDate="2015-03-31T16:00:01.617" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Splitting usually occurs as the wood is drying out. Because the end grain exposed to air loses moisture much faster than the inner wood, it splits to release the stress between the two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cookies&lt;/strong&gt; (such as you have in your picture) have it rougher than &lt;strong&gt;slabs&lt;/strong&gt; (pieces of wood cut along the long axis of the trunk) as none of the stress of a growing tree has been relieved. A board will cup across its short axis as the tree rings relax and straighten. That can later be planed flat. But a cookie has no other option but to crack as it releases stress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To prevent checking or cracking after being sawn from a log, the end grain of boards is covered with wax or paint (I use simple latex paint) to handicap moisture release and allow the long grain to keep up. It may not work as well on a cookie, but you could try it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to embrace the cracks as part of the beauty of the wood. I fill knots with two-part epoxy colored with airbrush paint. Assuming the crack forms a pleasing shape, it can really add to the character of the piece:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mSUUM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mSUUM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodworkerssource.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/mesquite_frame2.jpg%22&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="81" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2023-01-03T16:22:33.283" LastActivityDate="2023-01-03T16:22:33.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="631" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-31T16:07:42.843" Score="6" ViewCount="3768" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on building a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/woodworking-plans/article/japanese-garden-bench.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;garden bench&lt;/a&gt; for the outdoors. I opted for Pressure treated pine (I'll be staining it a cedar color) because it was cheaper than cedar, way cheaper than white oak and mahogony, and way &lt;em&gt;way&lt;/em&gt; cheaper than teak. I wasn't thinking when I made my decision (nor when I loaded the wood from the lumber yard), but when I brought it home, I noticed that the wood was very wet from the chemicals they used to pressure-treat it. Given what I know about moisture content, my immediate thought was that I'd have to wait a year before this lumber is ready to work with. Is this true? Will it take a year or more to get back to the proper moisture content? Or should I not even worry about it (i.e., the nature of the chemicals won't make it move)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that people build with PT lumber all the time without worrying about moisture content, but these tend to be non-furniture applications. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A related question--if I can use this before it's fully dried, will regular wood-glue (e.g., Tightbond III) work? If not, will epoxy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastEditorUserId="180" LastEditDate="2015-03-31T17:37:18.773" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T18:02:48.640" Title="Does pressure treated lumber need to reach a proper moisture content before use?" Tags="|wood-movement|pressure-treated|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="629" CreationDate="2015-03-31T16:24:13.237" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard a up to a week or so to let it acclimate for best results, but some of that could be related to the wood species and cut, and how much movement you can handle in your assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as after the rough cut, if there are tensions in it, it should show up from almost immediately to a day or so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much more than that for either and really you are just dealing with what will be normal wood movement as weather changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T16:24:13.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="631" CreationDate="2015-03-31T16:28:40.587" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pressure treated moisture is different than 'green' moisture.  There is two kinds of moisture in a tree, and the stuff that takes a long time to dry is the bound moisture inside the cells.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you sticker your lumber outside where air can flow through it, in a couple weeks the vast majority of that induced moisture should be gone and it should be ready for use.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all you are doing is nailing or bolting things together than you don't really need to do that, other than they will be heavier to work with, and you might need to tighten things up a little when they have dried more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-03-31T18:02:48.640" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T18:02:48.640" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="631" CreationDate="2015-03-31T16:43:15.420" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, just like any lumber, you should ideally always sticker your pressure-treated lumber and let it sit for a couple weeks before using it to let it dry out and acclimate to your environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood moves as it absorbs or releases moisture, even the moisture injected into it during the pressure-treating process. All you need to do for proof is to look at the picnic tables sitting outside your local home improvement center about halfway through the summer. After they are assembled and set outside for display, they start to acclimate and after they've been outside for a while, one leg is often several inches off the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also mentioned in a comment that you have a SawStop table saw. Typically pressure-treated lumber will not trip the brake, but there's an easy way to test whether any material is conductive enough to be detected as flesh contact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set up your saw for an extremely safe type of cut--for example, using a crosscut sled to remove a few inches of material from the end of a board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start the saw in bypass mode (you should check your saw's manual, but the steps are the same as the ones I've copied below from the Contractor model's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sawstop.com/images/uploads/manuals/CNS%20Quick%20Start%20Guide%20%28Aug%2008%29.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Quick Start Guide&lt;/a&gt;).&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;WARNING: Only use Bypass Mode to cut conductive material or to test material conductivity. There is no protection in Bypass Mode.&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flip the main power switch up to turn on power.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait until the green light is on steady and the red light is off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn the bypass key clockwise and hold.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hold the bypass key turned for 2 seconds, pull out the Start/Stop Paddle, and hold the key 2 more seconds.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Release the key. The green light blinks slowly and the red light is off when in Bypass Mode.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Push the Start/Stop Paddle in to stop the blade. The saw exits Bypass Mode&#xA;after the blade has come to a complete stop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very carefully make several test cuts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Before turning off the blade by pushing in the red Start/Stop paddle, check the red light.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the red light is blinking fast, the material is conductive and would have triggered  the brake.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the red light is off, the material is non-conductive and would not have triggered the brake.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last summer I performed this check on a pressure-treated 2x4 and was able to safely rip a bevel across the entire length to make a piece of window trim for the exterior my house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-03-31T17:14:36.203" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T17:14:36.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="451" CreationDate="2015-03-31T16:52:18.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would also agree with the above answers in saying that the dust deputy is top notch.  I ended up getting the entire &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/149951/Oneida-Molded-Dust-Deputy-Kit-With-Two-5-Gallon-Plastic-Buckets.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;kit&lt;/a&gt; to save myself some time in setup since I have a 1 year old that really cuts into my wood working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After buying my shop vac and dust deputy, I then needed to try and find adapters to fit my different machines.  This can be a really annoying process since a lot of the time, the adapters will not fit over the dust ports.  My solution to this problem was to start 3D printing them to the exact size I needed.  Friends and family started wanting them and I decided to start a tiny &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dustadapters.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;side business&lt;/a&gt; to help people out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="261" LastEditorUserId="261" LastEditDate="2015-04-01T13:16:58.803" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T13:16:58.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="636" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="637" CreationDate="2015-03-31T17:24:41.603" Score="18" ViewCount="12444" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen the term &quot;stickering wood&quot; mentioned on a few other sites, but no one seems inclined to define what it means.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this where you pile wood in stacks with sticks between the boards to allow airflow? Is this a labeling method where you place a sticker on a grouped set of boards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="107" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-04-06T16:13:04.680" LastActivityDate="2017-07-15T21:18:04.773" Title="What does &quot;stickering wood&quot; mean?" Tags="|wood-drying|terminology|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="636" CreationDate="2015-03-31T17:27:39.150" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's the former, piling wood in stacks with sticks between them to allow better air flow while also maintaining an even pressure throughout the pieces to limit cupping or warping that occurs during the drying process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't really see the sticks in this photo, but this wood has been stickered:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NPrgn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;wood piled with space in between caused by stickering the wood&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;By edward stojakovic from chicago, United States (Neat organized wood drying rack) &lt;a href=&quot;http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;CC BY 2.0&lt;/a&gt;, via Wikimedia Commons&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-03-31T20:10:38.333" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T20:10:38.333" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="636" CreationDate="2015-03-31T17:29:47.340" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most cases I've seen this term in reference to how to stack layers of cut timber/lumber to air dry. Typically, reusable sticks of uniformly cut 'strips' are used to space the wood apart for better air circulation. This is particularly important if/when wood is cut or resawn from green wood where the moisture content can be very high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T17:29:47.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="639" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-31T18:28:29.547" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wood expands and contracts, swells or shrinks due to changes in the local temperature and humidity which cause changes to its moisture content (MC). Wood shrinks as MC drops, swells as MC rises.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This tag is for questions relating to dealing with it for different projects. Techniques and best practices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Resources&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sagulator&lt;/a&gt; website app helps determine the amount of sag you can expect for specific species, sizes, and spans of wood shelves or table surfaces.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://The%20[Sagulator][1]%20website%20app%20helps%20determine%20the%20amount%20of%20sag%20you%20can%20expect%20for%20specific%20species,%20sizes,%20and%20spans%20of%20wood%20shelves%20or%20table%20surfaces.&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This web page&lt;/a&gt; from Popular Woodworking discusses the nature of wood movement and how to calculate the amount of movement to expect on your project.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T19:07:13.583" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T19:07:13.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="640" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-31T18:28:29.547" Score="0" Body="Questions dealing with the movement of wood due to weather and seasonal changes." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T19:07:13.583" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T19:07:13.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="641" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="647" CreationDate="2015-03-31T18:53:20.390" Score="10" ViewCount="1754" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming we're talking about &lt;em&gt;sliding&lt;/em&gt; miter saws, or table saws, does one select a blade diameter purely to maximize the potential depth of cut?  Or are there other benefits to larger blade diameters for even shallower cuts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm actually thinking larger blades might be slightly detrimental to shallower cuts because a larger radius puts more blade surface area in contact with the piece being cut, but maybe that's only a problem if the piece isn't perfectly supported/fed (and so can flex in against the blade).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T21:10:37.770" Title="Does circular saw diameter bear on anything but maximum cut depth?" Tags="|table-saw|circular-saw|miter-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="642" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="645" CreationDate="2015-03-31T19:00:11.797" Score="14" ViewCount="2429" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have on several occasions broken screw heads in pieces where I can't readily access or cut into the joint they're securing.  Is there such a thing as a tiny core drill bit for cutting around what's left of the fastener so I can remove the rest of the wood piece it was securing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is there any other technique for dealing with this situation when I can't cut the wood piece loose from behind using a reciprocating saw and can't just tear the piece free?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastActivityDate="2019-03-12T19:24:34.003" Title="Tiny core bits for broken screws" Tags="|screws|drilling|drill-bits|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="643" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-31T19:01:28.567" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Workshops need storage and often woodshops are used to build storage for other uses.  Where to build/put it, what to build and how to do it are all valid questions to use this tag.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-01T13:46:03.567" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T13:46:03.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="644" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-31T19:01:28.567" Score="0" Body="Places to store tools and wood, how, when, where." OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-16T21:27:30.490" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T21:27:30.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="642" CreationDate="2015-03-31T19:15:07.277" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, there are hollow screw extractors like you describe, such as these two examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/set3hollowscrewextractors.aspx&quot;&gt;http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/set3hollowscrewextractors.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0032YWQ26&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/WoodRiver-Screw-Extractor-1-4/dp/B0032YWQ26&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, they may be difficult to get started if you're unable to fit the part into a drill press and you aren't able to make a pilot hole the size of the extractor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that case, you can try making a guide of the appropriate diameter and clamping it to your workpiece, or try the more typical type of screw extractor that Matt mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-03-31T19:20:14.750" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T19:20:14.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="642" CreationDate="2015-03-31T19:16:20.233" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds to me like you are describing a use for screw extractors&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qM7NU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qM7NU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Screw Extractor&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.asklaptopfreak.com/wp-images/screw-extractor.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;asklaptopfreak.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your drill needs to have the torque in order to get them in what's left of the head or shaft. They are drilled forward the reverse direction (lefty loosy) so that when the bit gets enough catch on the screw it gets pulled out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be harder to use these when you don't have a head to work with but they could still work if you can't find what Rob suggested (Which is a good answer). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2019-03-12T19:24:34.003" LastActivityDate="2019-03-12T19:24:34.003" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="641" CreationDate="2015-03-31T19:29:48.017" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depth of cut is usually the primary factor associated with choosing a saw diameter, but certain types of saws are affected in other ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides depth of cut, one factor that impacts all types of saws is that larger blades require more materials in general to manufacture, but they also require more teeth for the same type or quality of cut. As a result, they also cost more (especially with carbide-tipped blades) because of more sharpened cutting edges. For example, 7-1/4&quot; fine crosscut blade might have 60T and cost $20 while a comparable 10&quot; crosscut blade may have 80T and cost more than $70.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some types of saws, like a miter saw, the diameter of the blade also has other implications for the saw's capacity. For example, a 12&quot; (non-sliding) miter saw can crosscut and miter a wider board than a similar 10&quot; miter saw if the board is laid flat across the bed. (You can use the miter saw's vertical travel to squeak out a little more crosscut capacity by laying the board on its edge across the bed, with the face of the board against the miter saw's back fence.) Typically the same relationship exists for sliding miter saws, but one could certainly design a 7-1/4&quot; sliding miter saw that has greater crosscut capacity than any given 12&quot; sliding miter saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For table saws, the only implication is generally depth of cut, though if you want a table saw with a blade braking system (SawStop or Bosch's upcoming &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boschtools.com/AboutBoschTools/PressRoom/Pages/031815_reaxxsaw.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ReaXX&lt;/a&gt;, you're basically stuck looking at 10&quot; saws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another issue you may face depending on the size you choose is that some blade sizes may not be as readily available at local stores--for instance, 9&quot; blades for older table saws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also indirect implications for other types of saws. For example, a 7-1/4&quot; circular saw will have a smaller, lighter motor and will thus cause less fatigue on the operator than an 8-1/4&quot; circular saw when lifting or pushing the saw over many cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you're using a sharp blade of the right type and with an appropriate depth of cut, the blade diameter is often largely inconsequential and it becomes more important to have the right type or size of motor in your machine. If your saw's motor does seem to get bogged down, you should confirm the blade is actually sharp and/or switch to a thin-kerf blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-03-31T21:10:37.770" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T21:10:37.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="648" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-31T19:31:55.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;treated with chemicals inserted into the wood with pressure, in order to give the wood protection from insect and fungus activity.  This is to increase the useful life span of the lumber for outdoor use and in places where the wood can come into contact with water, say in a bathroom or shower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-01T13:45:19.913" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T13:45:19.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="649" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-31T19:31:55.883" Score="0" Body="When/How/Where to use pressure treated lumber for projects.  Safety concerns etc." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-02T02:19:09.630" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T02:19:09.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="650" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-31T19:44:49.973" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Routers are used for many things and there are many techniques to use them.  There are also many different kinds of bits to use for all kinds of possibilities.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Routers also have a bit that can spin as fast as 50,000 rpm and as such is a dangerous tool and safety should always be taken into account.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T18:50:23.983" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T18:50:23.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="651" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-31T19:44:49.973" Score="0" Body="Routers and bits, features, techniques, safety etc." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T18:50:23.983" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T18:50:23.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="652" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-31T20:13:06.197" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wood from &lt;strong&gt;dicot angiosperm&lt;/strong&gt; trees, generally leafy trees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T20:02:51.983" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T20:02:51.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="653" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-31T20:13:06.197" Score="0" Body="Wood from dicot angiosperm trees, generally leafy trees." OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T20:02:51.983" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T20:02:51.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="558" CreationDate="2015-03-31T20:47:08.723" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The physical qualities of end-grain that make them desirable over side grain in a cutting board relate to the structure of wood itself. Viewed under a microscope, end-grain looks like a series of straws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7vgwG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wood structure under electron microscopy&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A knife cutting against this surface is likely to spread the fibers apart rather than dislodging fibers or completely cutting them as can happen with side grain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An end-grain cutting board is kind of 'self-healing' in this regard, as compared to side grain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The disadvantages? Wood isn't as strong along the axis parallel to the end grain, therefore you tend to make things thicker when using end grain. For example, if you slice off a 1/4&quot; piece of a 2x4, you can easily snap it in half with hand pressure. A 1/4&quot; piece cut from the length of a 2x4 is much harder to break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T20:47:08.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="50" CreationDate="2015-03-31T20:51:15.873" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A matte or flat water based poly will give the closest look to no finish and provide a lot of protection. I recommend Target EM9000. It may leave the wood with a little bit of a wet look. I've not tested for it because I always want some color to the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T20:51:15.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="557" CreationDate="2015-03-31T20:57:23.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nib sand with 600-800 gr paper. It cuts the raised grain and dust nibs much better than steel wool or scotchbrite. Usually only takes one or 2 light swipes. Results in a much smoother finish. Final finish can be evenly scratched with steel wool or scotchbrite to change the sheen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T20:57:23.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="508" CreationDate="2015-03-31T21:14:47.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With today's glues, a simple butt edge joint works just fine. The boards need to be jointed well (the edges very straight, and I like a slight hollow towards the center ensuring the ends are tight and don't gap in the future). Clamping cauls will keep the boards aligned (I make my own from fir 2x4's). There will always be a slight misalignment of the boards at the joints that will need flattening (the same using splines, dowels, biscuits, or nothing). Sanding (by hand or random orbital sander) can work, but takes a long time. Some cabinet shops can sand or plane wide panels. I use hand planes for this step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many believe splines, dowels, or biscuits strengthen the joint, and they do not. A butt edge joint is just as strong. These methods can also cause the underlying dowel, etc. to &quot;telegraph&quot; into the finished top due to dissimilar wood/grain direction, etc. As for alignment, I have used each of the methods, including routered glue lock joints, and simply edge joining the boards and using clamping cauls to align them provides the easiest and most aligned assembly of all the methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastEditorUserId="180" LastEditDate="2015-04-01T00:56:28.047" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T00:56:28.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="473" CreationDate="2015-03-31T21:25:28.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure you should continue hand planing wood with knots. Your experience with the plane stopping is common, and yes, knots will dull a blade faster, and can create some small nicks in the edge. Decreasing the cutting depth is the best way to handle the knots. You can see the knots in the wood surface, so adjust the blade depth accordingly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of ways to approach knots. They can be planed down below the surface, then the rest of the surface planed down to them, and then final passes over the whole surface, or the whole surface can be planed down at once. I usually do the latter. Typically knots will have reversing grain which will tear out with the typical 45° bench plane. Hand scrapers, scraper planes, and high angle smoothers can be used to clean up these areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T21:25:28.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="73" CreationDate="2015-03-31T21:33:24.403" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes the blade can be located to one side of the bed, not allowing the blade to shift enough with the lateral adjust lever to get the edge parallel with the sole. Ensure the blade has more or less equal space on each side. Two other items can be the culprit: 1) blade edge not perpendicular to the sides (doesn't have to be perfect - within ~.020&quot; across the blade), 2) blade bed machined out of parallel with the sole - if this is the problem, return the plane for a new one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T21:33:24.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="660" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-31T23:02:17.140" Score="8" ViewCount="344" Body="&lt;p&gt;My &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jettools.com/us/en/p/jwl-1642-2evs-16-x-42-evs-pro-wood-lathe-2hp/708360&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Jet 1642 lathe&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; is only developing about 500 &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Revolutions_per_minute&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RPM&lt;/a&gt; instead of the 1200 it should in low range.  It also has significantly less torque, making it difficult to turn anything even with a light touch &amp;amp; sharp tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has a 3 phase inverter, and I suspect one of the phase legs have failed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that the inverter is contaminated with fine dust?  I turn a lot of tropical hardwoods and frequently sand to a very high grit and wonder if the silica common in them could somehow be interfering with the inverter circuitry.  Since the lathe is long since out of warranty, I'm considering opening it up and blowing it out with compressed air to see if that helps and possibly cleaning the circuit board with alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone else experienced this, and if so, how were you able to resolve it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;:  It's now three years later, the lathe is behaving completely normally and I've done nothing beyond cleaning it really well.  I suspect it may have been water intrusion since the lathe sits right up against my garage door.  I have put in a plywood panel to prevent direct spray, but that's really just a guess as to what the actual problem might have been.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="268" LastEditorUserId="268" LastEditDate="2018-07-25T16:05:07.323" LastActivityDate="2018-07-25T16:05:07.323" Title="What could cause a lathe to have low torque and only develop approximately half its rated RPM?" Tags="|lathe|tool-repair|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="73" CreationDate="2015-03-31T23:46:08.567" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your blade turns out to be square and you still have the problem, either the blade is not sitting flat on the frog (unlikely) or the frog itself is not sitting flat on the bed of the plane.  This is quite a pain to fix; you have to take everything apart and use a file to flatten the burr or mold line that is causing the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I once had your problem and it turned out that I had ground my blade out of square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best reference I have personally seen is a video by Christopher Schwarz called &quot;Super Tune a Hand Plane&quot;  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shopwoodworking.com/super-tuning-a-hand-plane-dvd-u3934&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;available here&lt;/a&gt; [shopwoodworking.com - part of Popular Woodworking's site.] He goes over every possible thing you can do to make your hand plane work better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A related video by him is called &quot;The Last Word on Sharpening&quot; which is also very useful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T23:46:08.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="662" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="664" CreationDate="2015-04-01T01:10:07.563" Score="6" ViewCount="1399" Body="&lt;p&gt;I received mine earlier today from ebay but no instructions were enclosed and I can't find any on the net.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you go about using this correctly to get the most out of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-04-01T13:26:41.047" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T20:08:43.267" Title="How do you use a 300 &amp; 600 grit diamond jointer / planer blade sharpener / knife hone holder?" Tags="|sharpening|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="50" CreationDate="2015-04-01T03:56:33.867" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;While Tung, Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO), and other hardening oils will provide some protection, non-hardening oils like mineral, olive, or vegetable oil do not provide any significant protection. Hardening oils contain resins that undergo a chemical reaction (non-reversible) within the wood. Naturally, non-hardening oils do not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wipe on finishes like Danish oil or Arm-R-Seal are oil and varnish blends that are applied in thin coats which maintains a lot of the natural feel of the word. They build a thin film (as opposed to hardening and non hardening oils which do not) and this protects against light wear and water. However, they generally give the wood some color. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="270" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-10-16T15:27:24.413" LastActivityDate="2015-10-16T15:27:24.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="662" CreationDate="2015-04-01T07:37:15.850" Score="10" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Stop!&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please don't use that stuff on your tools, it's far too coarse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;300 and 600 grit is most certainly &lt;strong&gt;not suitable&lt;/strong&gt; for sharpening a planer blade or such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;300 grit is very aggressive, it takes away a lot of material and not in a very smooth (sharp) way. This is something you might use on an garden axe after you've chopped through roots and earth (and little rocks) for some time to get rid of the dents that will now be visible in the blade. Or you might use it to get a straight cutting edge again if, for some reason, someone had &amp;quot;sharpened&amp;quot; it totally wrong so it's all skewed and sloped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;600 is better but still too coarse to really sharpen a tool. It's most suitable if a blade doesn't have the desired angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For &lt;em&gt;sharpening&lt;/em&gt; jointer/planer blades and (quality) knives, you might want to start with, say, 1000 grit (or 800 if you have that lying around and can't afford to buy 1000), then have another go with 3000, and finish by pulling it over a 6000 (better 8000) polishing stone.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;People who make a religion out of sharpening will probably pull the blade over leather, afterwards (I'm not doing that, 8000 stone works well enough for my practical purposes, but opinions and tastes differ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 1000/3000 stones are what make the micro-edge, and the 8000 stone (pulled along) gives that edge a polish, which is what makes the difference between a &amp;quot;meh&amp;quot; sharp blade and a &amp;quot;woah&amp;quot; sharp one. After pulling over the polishing stone, the edge looks like a mirror.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stones are available up to 20.000 or 30.000 grit (possibly more?), and some people will use them, but these stones are quite unaffordable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use Suehiro Cerax 1000/3000/8000 with the Veritas sharpening guide model 2 (and a 5.99 plastic Japanese guide for kitchen knives), which gives a very nice result and is reasonably affordable (around 80 or so currency per stone). It's not &amp;quot;diamond&amp;quot; but corund, but that makes little difference.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;10.000 is only available as &amp;quot;mixed grit&amp;quot;, which is something I don't quite trust -- else I might be inclined to give that a try. Upwards of 10.000, quality stones are clearly in the 3-digit price range (and no, the first digit isn't a one!).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I've heard of people using the somewhat cheaper &amp;quot;Sun King&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;Sun Tiger&amp;quot; stones instead to full satisfaction. They're cheaper than Cerax but are said to wear out faster, too. For me, the price difference isn't significant enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Diamond&amp;quot; is really only needed to sharpen ceramic blades, and doesn't make a better sharpener otherwise (though it will obviously wear out slower). For tools made of steel, a &amp;quot;normal&amp;quot; stone will do just fine (I was told &amp;quot;soft binding&amp;quot; is better for high-carbon steels whereas &amp;quot;hard binding&amp;quot; is better for high-alloy steels, but I use hard binding all the way, which works fine, too).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;What does this look like in close-up?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following shots are from a cheap Thai kitchen knife that I bought (and sharpened) this week. Not a wood tool, but you can see the difference beween what a coarse grit and a fine grit does anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Factory sharpened&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As delivered, as sharpened (well, &amp;quot;sharpened&amp;quot;) in the Thai &lt;strike&gt;sweat shop&lt;/strike&gt; factory. I would guess this is maybe 600-grit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Believe it or not, you &lt;strong&gt;can&lt;/strong&gt; actually cut with this, and it isn't all bad either, at least for vegetables and such.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;However, I wouldn't want to use a wood tool that has an edge like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ui3Li.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;factory sharpened&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;1000 grit (incomplete)&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here, I have partially sharpened the blade using a 1000-grit water stone. Since I am sharpening at a slightly more acute angle than the worker who made the blade, the edgemost part of the blade has not been touched yet, but you can already see that it will be a lot smoother. A dozen more pulls over the stone are necessary to get an even, uniform edge:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fVrvq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;1000-partial&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;1000, followed by 3000-grit&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is after sharpening with 1000-grain, followed by 3000-grain. The edge looks already pretty nice overall, although you can still see irregularities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QWXNH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3000&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Finish with 8000-grit&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final result, after pulling over the 8000 polishing stone, a pretty, even edge. I won't claim that this is the sharpest knife in the world, but there are &lt;em&gt;worlds&lt;/em&gt; between what the knife looked like 5 minutes earlier and now:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mk4Ds.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;8000&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="135" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T20:08:43.267" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="642" CreationDate="2015-04-01T08:09:09.223" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the best method I've seen to remove &lt;em&gt;small&lt;/em&gt; screws with sheared-off heads is to drill access holes on opposite sides of the shaft, just large enough to accept the tips of a needle-nose pliers, get a firm grip on the shaft and twist it out. Obviously this marrs the wood noticeably but if you use pliers with very fine tips (if necessary by grinding them even smaller) the damage isn't too bad. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With brass in particular it is possible to drill right through the screw itself with a small bit, basically turning what remains into shavings. It's difficult to do by hand, I've only ever done it successfully once, but with a drill press this is much more viable (assuming the workpiece can fit the bed of the drill of course). So possibly kept as the technique of last resort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T08:09:09.223" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="621" CreationDate="2015-04-01T08:15:37.573" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using a varnish or other finish with UV inhibitors, they're specifically intended to help with this sort of issue (darkening, fading, colour change). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will have to top up or replace the coating periodically to maintain protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T08:15:37.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="473" CreationDate="2015-04-01T08:26:42.003" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does knot wood cause a hand plane's blade to become duller faster than regular wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As already answered yes they will. In rare occurrences they have been known to chip the edge, but I stress this is very rare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to having your iron as sharp as you can make it one tip not given above is dampening the knots to soften them (can also be useful planing end grain). I think the majority of users will by necessity have to resort to other means to do their final smoothing of knotty wood, for most this will mean sanding but ideally most or all of the work should be tackled with a scraper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T08:26:42.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="384" CreationDate="2015-04-01T09:48:23.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would echo the advice of the other two answers, but would like to provide specific advice on screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard good things about SPAX screws, and they have a guide to pre-drilling sizes here &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.spax.com/uk/technical-terms/pre-drilling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.spax.com/uk/technical-terms/pre-drilling&lt;/a&gt; which may be useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I've always used Reisser R2 wood screws which come pre-lubricated and I've VERY rarely had problems with the screws breaking or being hard to drive in, even without pre-drilling. I work at a joinery and we make thousands of hardwood windows each year. We've tried other screws as there's always somebody trying to sell their fancy new wood screws with Torx drive and cutting tips, self-countersinking heads etc. but nothing is a patch on the Reisser screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you try these screws and still have trouble, then try pre-drilling. If you still have problems after that then something else we've tried when driving in long (160mm) decking screws is applying some silicone sealant to the screw thread, by dipping the screw into the end of a tube). This lessens the friction and also makes it easier to remove the screws later, if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T09:48:23.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="417" CreationDate="2015-04-01T12:21:01.227" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rob has presented the high end solution, I will present the cheap hack end of the spectrum. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For drilling pilot holes, you can use a brad or nail with the head snipped off. This works remarkably well, is cost-effective and easy to do. Depending on the the brad in question, you many not need to snip the head, in which case you can use the brad after a few drillings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also take a look at some parts of the drilling equation - rotation speed, downward force, sharpness of the drill bits and the steadiness of the drill. If the drill bit is dull, rotating slowly with a great force pushing down and the drill wiggles, it is much more likely to break. So see if you can improve part of this. I find if the drill is steady and fast, the bits are sharp and there is no lateral movement, I have no issues. If that doesn't help, try a drill press and clamp your work down before drilling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastEditorUserId="111" LastEditDate="2015-04-01T15:29:41.807" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T15:29:41.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="670" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="671" CreationDate="2015-04-01T13:14:30.090" Score="21" ViewCount="8773" Body="&lt;p&gt;When gluing pieces together, I've always used an abundance of clamps and tightened them with all my might. Is it possible to tighten them too much? At some point, could I squeeze out so much glue that the joint becomes weaker?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can see how tightening too much can cause warping or damage to the wood. Here, I'm mostly curious about the effect the tightness has on the performance of the glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T14:25:31.850" Title="Can clamps be too tight?" Tags="|joinery|glue|clamps|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="670" CreationDate="2015-04-01T13:35:29.210" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hoping to run into some more tests and calculations but this is a good start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Yes&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clamps can be too tight and the joint could weaken or even warp, in a sense, if too much pressure is applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this out by accident using spring-style clamps to repair a break in a board. I left it out overnight for the glue to set with 3 spring clamps keeping it in place. The spring tension increased &lt;em&gt;slightly&lt;/em&gt; during that time and it started to pull the piece away. While it still bonded, the extra tension was enough to set the break at an angle. I had to re-break and reset but the damage was done and the joint was never perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I now use C-clamps for most of my gluing since I can control the amount of pressure exerted from them and I know that I can leave them alone long term and they wont move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest using a &lt;em&gt;non-spring&lt;/em&gt; clamp for gluing. The amount of glue is important as well as you don't want sliding to occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To continue on how much glue to use that would depend on your wood you have. Softer woods can be more porous and take in more glue than some of the harder woods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gluing SCIENCE!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A post from &lt;a href=&quot;http://woodgears.ca/joint_strength/glue_methods.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;WoodGears.ca&lt;/a&gt; performs a series of experiments using some maple and varying amounts of pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you scroll to the bottom you will see the overall results. The pictures are very telling as you would see excessive pressure removed most all the glue from the joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The summary findings from that post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Only applying glue to the mortise of a mortise and tenon joint is a bad idea&#xA;&lt;li&gt; Excessive clamping force can weaken the joint strength by up to 20%&#xA;&lt;li&gt; A very smooth scraped surface is just as good, if not better than a sanded surface, as long as not clamped excessively hard&#xA;&lt;li&gt; Gaps in a joint, as long as they are filled with glue, do not adversely affect joint strength.&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Note&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/skills/take-it-easy-with-clamping-pressure/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; when researching this topic. According to the comments the numbers and advice referenced could be considered flawed. Just be aware if you find yourself reading this article. Read the comments as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T14:25:31.850" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="672" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-01T14:09:49.743" Score="9" ViewCount="2773" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a bewildering variety of sharpening methods out there and many opinions as to which might be the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a best way?  What are some good references on the subject?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T14:28:05.383" Title="Is there a 'best' way to sharpen an edged tool like a chisel?" Tags="|technique|sharpening|hand-tools|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="672" CreationDate="2015-04-01T14:09:49.743" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tl;DR&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me begin this answer with the final conclusion:  all sharpening systems work.  Just pick one and live with it because none of them are any fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a set of Arkansas oil stones from &lt;a href=&quot;http://danswhetstone.com/&quot;&gt;Dan’s Whetstones&lt;/a&gt; and use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/Page.aspx?p=51868&amp;amp;cat=1,43072,43078,51868&quot;&gt;Veritas honing guide&lt;/a&gt;.  I’m slowly trying to learn to do this freehand and wean myself from the honing guide.  In addition to the stones, I have a piece of leather that I glued to a piece of wood to strop with.  I rub it with a stick of chromium oxide to give it a bit of grit.  For other things like carving tools with curved profiles I attempt to use a small slip stone and a leather strop with profiles molded in it but I’m terrible at it and don’t feel I have much to contribute there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, here are the resources that I have used to learn about sharpening:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Book:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1561581259&quot;&gt;The Complete Guide to Sharpening by Leonard Lee&lt;/a&gt; (of Lee Valley Tools).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DVD:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shopwoodworking.com/last-word-on-sharpening-w5879&quot;&gt;The Last Word on Sharpening&lt;/a&gt; by Christopher Schwarz.  His philosophy here is:  sharpen often, do it quickly, get back to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve struggled a bit with which type of sharpening media to use.  I’ve tried sandpaper (the Scary Sharp method), diamond plates, and traditional Arkansas oil stones.  I’ve also used the famous Tormek machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sandpaper works very well.  I bought a $5 marble floor tile and used this system for quite some time.  I eventually decided that it was a pain to have to go restock my sandpaper so often and also a pain to stick it down and then have to scrape it off the tile every time.  I wanted a more permanent system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tried diamond plates but had a strange problem:  they seemed to wear out which is exactly the opposite of what is supposed to happen.  I submitted a question to woodtalkonline and got &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/17756-grinding-new-bevels/&quot;&gt;this response&lt;/a&gt;.  It is long but very good – answered by Larry Williams who is a maker of traditional wooden handplanes in Arkansas and is an expert on the subject of sharpening.  (I actually stopped by his shop once while in Arkansas for the weekend.  He and his business partner were the nicest guys ever and I could hang out with them for a year and not learn all that they knew.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Tormek is the best of all but is way too expensive for me to invest in.  My friend has one and I have to say that it really does work as advertised.  It produces a sharp edge at a rigidly controlled angle and it is quick (but first you have to fill the trough with water and then clean it up afterwards.) I would buy one if I could justify it.  If money is no object, go buy one of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway…  several years ago, I had to attend a funeral in Arkansas and chose my route so as to pass by the quarries of Dan’s Whetstones and while there, I got a tour, a lecture on sharpening, and two traditional Arkansas sharpening stones and that is what I now use for everything.  I wrote about that little field trip over &lt;a href=&quot;https://nolemonsnomelon.wordpress.com/2013/04/29/my-visit-to-the-whetstone-place/&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So that’s what I know and how I came to know it.  Everyone makes a different decision but my point is to simply make a decision and go with it.  If I wasn’t so cheap, I probably would have bought a set of Shapton Waterstones years ago because I’ve seen so many people online use them.  The subject of sharpening is fraught with almost religious fervor and narrow mindedness but the links above are links to people who seem open minded and perhaps scientific.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T14:09:49.743" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="672" CreationDate="2015-04-01T14:31:23.190" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most important part of sharpening a tool is knowing where to remove the material from to restore the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grind#Typical_grinds&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wipedia's grind page&lt;/a&gt; there is a description of the most common ways to put an edge to a blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jEY0D.png&quot; alt=&quot;Chisel Profile&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A chisel, for example, will most often have #4; a flat surface on one side and a angled face ground off. To sharpen this you need to remove material from the angled face evenly until the edge is sharp again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2015-04-01T15:28:08.213" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T15:28:08.213" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="675" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="676" CreationDate="2015-04-01T14:56:24.060" Score="6" ViewCount="2282" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you turn the bottom of the bowl?  Do you have to leave a rabbet or tenon?  What if I don't want to leave a tenon as a foot? or the chuck damaged the foot and I want to clean it up/remove it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T21:21:08.450" Title="How do you turn the bottom of the bowl?" Tags="|technique|turning|lathe-chuck|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="675" CreationDate="2015-04-01T14:57:46.780" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 4 ways I am currently aware of to turn the bottom of a bowl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Turn it first, in this case you need to leave a Rabbet or a tenon for chucks to clamp on/in so that you can turn the bowl around and hollow out the inside.  This leaves the tenon or rabbet, and there could be tool marks left from the chuck.(alternately you can glue a piece of 'waste' wood on the bottom and use screws to attach it to a faceplate still might need clean up after removing the waste wood)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After hollowing out the bowl, there will likely be a tenon or rabbet and quite possibly some ugly tool marks, or the tenon might be damaged. (or you just want to remove the tenon/rabbet for aesthetics. That's where the next 3 come in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Flat jaws - you can buy Flat jaws for many/most chucks out there and these are very useful.  They can clamp down or expand out to hold the rim of a bowl.  The uprights that hold the bowl are rubber coated screws so they won't mar or damage the edge of the bowl.  The screws can be placed at different distances to accommodate different size works.  Some of the jaws have some variable slots to help hold oblong bowls (likely from some warping). The larger chucks tend to have angled nubs to help grip the bowls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hxDsr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;PSI flat jaws&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x3Y6w.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;One Way Large flat jaws&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vacuum chucks - these use an air compressor to create a vacuum holding a piece onto the chuck.  It needs a good seal so holes in the work will preclude this as an option, even porous wood might not work, though finishing the inside of bowl can overcome porous material.  This is especially good for working on bowl and things with an uneven edge or a 'natural' edge bowl which won't work with flat jaws.  In my experience this should mostly be used for finishing work, and not to try and turn the whole outside.  Too heavy of cuts and the bowl will pop off, possibly getting damaged in the process.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pkGmT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;4&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Jam chucks -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a. This is where a chuck such as the vacuum head of the Vacuum chuck (or other hand made ones) are used to 'push' the bowl against, using the tailstock to hold the piece against it.  This lets you turn most of the bottom other than a small piece around the tailstock with can be cleaned up easily with a chisel and some sand paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b. The other is to create an insert that fits the piece perfectly and is actually 'jammed' on the chuck like a hat on your head.  The friction will keep it there.  Once again this is generally for finishing work.  Jam chucks are always usable and certainly cover where the other two types fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T16:25:59.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="677" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-04-01T15:43:41.270" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Techniques, tools, products and safety related to removing finish from a piece and reapplying a new finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether it's sanding down a large ornate dresser to stripping 15 coats of paint, questions about making old look new again can use this tag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T19:22:13.170" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T19:22:13.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="678" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-04-01T15:43:41.270" Score="0" Body="Techniques, tools, products and safety related to removing finish from a piece and reapplying a new finish." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-02T02:18:30.533" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T02:18:30.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="679" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-04-01T15:52:15.070" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Workbenches are in almost every woodworking shop out there and many have multiple. They are used for many things and in many different ways. Each one has different features and can be optimized for different types of projects.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Resources:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Schwarz, Christopher, &lt;strong&gt;The Workbench Design Book&lt;/strong&gt;, Popular Woodworking Books, 2010.  This books provides plans and detailed information for designing and constructing a variety of workbench styles including general principles, Roubo, and Holtzapffel style benches as well as a variety of more specialized designs and material applications.  It also includes a discussion regarding bench vises and contact information for bench accessory providers. .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Schwarz, Christopher, &lt;strong&gt;Workbenches: From Design And Theory To Construction And Use&lt;/strong&gt;, Popular Woodworking Books, 2007. This book discusses historical workbench design, discusses good design features and develops a series of rules for the design of a good woodworking workbench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Landis, Scott, &lt;strong&gt;The Workbench Book: A Craftsman's Guide to Workbenches for Every Type of Woodworking&lt;/strong&gt;, Tauton Press, 1998. This book examines benches for all kinds of woodworking -- from a traditional Shaker bench to a mass-produced Workmate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Schleining, Lon &lt;strong&gt;The Workbench: A Complete Guide to Creating Your Perfect Bench&lt;/strong&gt;, Tauton Press, 2004.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T19:19:37.707" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T19:19:37.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="680" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-04-01T15:52:15.070" Score="0" Body="Use for Questions about building, buying, using workbenches as well as features to look for/build into it." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T19:19:37.707" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T19:19:37.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="681" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-04-01T15:56:39.220" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a wide variety of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clamp_%28tool%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;clamp&lt;/a&gt; style and sizes each with there own unique applications and uses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions about these different clamps and techniques are encouraged. Not all clamps can be used in the same way.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-04-02T02:18:50.350" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T02:18:50.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="682" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-04-01T15:56:39.220" Score="0" Body="About uses, techniques and wide variety of temporary fasteners" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-04-02T02:18:53.740" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T02:18:53.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="683" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-04-01T16:51:24.880" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-04-01T16:51:24.880" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T16:51:24.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="684" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-04-01T16:51:24.880" Score="0" Body="Removing moisture from wood in order to reduce cracking and twisting." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-02T02:19:17.440" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T02:19:17.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="685" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="726" CreationDate="2015-04-01T17:23:11.797" Score="7" ViewCount="296" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hope you guys bear with me on this as it's a little bit of a silly project. I'm mainly doing it to practice some joinery. My aunt has a Pomeranian and she's wanting me to make something better for him than a blanket on the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have a lot of beach themed stuff, so my thought was to make a little indoor dog house that looks like a beach house. Beach houses tend to be up on stilts, so you can park underneath and it won't flood. I'm going to do the framing with 2&quot;x2&quot;. I plan to have it 2' square at the outside. I will have a floor downstairs that has a little built in food and water dish. Upstairs will be a pad for sleeping on and a little fan in the ceiling they can turn on if he's warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My issue is that the dog is scared of steps and while he can mount them, he's typically scared to. He'll stand at the bottom and bark till someone carries him up them. In this vain I want to build a ramp. It'll need to rise ~2' from the floor to the level of the second floor. I'm figuring all measurement based on him plus clearance. he's roughly 8&quot; wide when his hair is grown out, so I figure the ramp will be 12&quot; wide. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to attach safety rails and I've figured them out already. I'm also going to add grip tape to the ramp. I think it'll give solid traction and make it look like a boardwalk. My current plan is to use the some triple-ply plywood as the ramp. I figured I could use a flat hinge at each point where bends. That way, instead of trying to get the angles perfect, it'll just go where it needs. I thought to support it, I could cut a 6&quot; piece of the 2&quot;x2&quot; and drill a hole through it's center and the vertical leg. Then run a bolt through to the other side to secure it. The platforms at the top bottom and corner would rest on these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would permanently attach these to the dog house, but my fear is that this is going to be almost 3' wide exactly. Most exterior doors are 3' and at best it'll probably scrape the door or the house. If the ramp was only on one side, it wouldn't be an issue, but due to his small stature and the rise, I think I need to use two sides to give the ramp a gentler rise. I'm also not in love with the way I want to attach it, since it will look bad. I could possibly use an L-bracket, but I don't want it to stand out and I think removing the screws too often would bore the holes out over time. I will be painting the frame, probably white, so I could cover something like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just haven't had anything hit me. Do you guys know of a good way to make this ramp and have it detachable? Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="232" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T14:04:36.730" Title="Best way to make a small detachable ramp on a dog house?" Tags="|technique|joinery|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="672" CreationDate="2015-04-01T17:23:27.307" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For maintaining a sharp edge frequent light sharpening will serve you best as this will limit wear and heat (after a couple hours using a tool a couple light strokes across a wet stone as part of your cleanup process is often all you need). Restoring an edge is much more difficult as you need to take hardening into account. If you have an old beat up tool to sharpen I would remove the handle (if possible), anneel it, grind it and re-harden. But note that I am a better blacksmith than woodworker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="277" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T17:23:27.307" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="685" CreationDate="2015-04-01T18:01:33.383" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, I would have a little 'door jab' across the door into it, maybe a 2x2.  then on the end of the ramp have two hooks that hook over the 2 x 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it makes installation and removal easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hooks like these:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/afsOc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T18:01:33.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="685" CreationDate="2015-04-01T18:24:54.000" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it might be easier if you draw a facsimile of what you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, for good reason, you don't want to use screws but could you use some washers and bolts to keep is secure? If the ramps have a small frame which the plywood sits on you could conceivably hide them underneath on the frame with the plywood on top. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory, it would make for a sturdy, detachable construct. Should also help prevent long term wear.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T18:24:54.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="660" CreationDate="2015-04-01T18:36:53.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can test the voltage on each leg of the inverter with a multi-meter to confirm your suspicious.  Between any two phases you should get the equivalent of the square root of 3 multiplied by the voltage.  So if your supply voltage is 120V, you should get ~208V between any two phases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One layer of a printed circuit board is a solder mask (this is what gives the board its color), so dirt on the board itself should not short out the individual traces. Blowing dust off of it won't hurt, but I doubt it will resolve the problem.  If something did short out, that component is likely damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you do trace the issue to the inverter, I would start with a visual inspection of the board, look for burnt or bulging components.  Smell the board too - if you get a strong smell of &quot;burnt&quot; and/or ozone, something is likely fried.  Whether or not you can fix it is probably outside the scope of this site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the inverter is OK, check and test all of the electrical connections - maybe you'll get likely and something has just come loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Might also be worth reaching out to Jet to see if this is a common symptom of a particular problem they know about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T18:36:53.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="690" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-04-01T19:24:28.123" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-04-01T19:24:28.123" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T19:24:28.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="691" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-04-01T19:24:28.123" Score="0" Body="Protecting wood from physical damage such as scratches or dents" OwnerUserId="10" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-04-02T02:18:04.100" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T02:18:04.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="692" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-04-01T19:29:04.910" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-04-01T19:29:04.910" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T19:29:04.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="693" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-04-01T19:29:04.910" Score="0" Body="A type of drying oil derived from the seed from the nut of the Chinese tung tree" OwnerUserId="10" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-04-02T02:19:29.297" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T02:19:29.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="694" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="697" CreationDate="2015-04-01T19:35:07.443" Score="6" ViewCount="4787" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a lot of trees we've been removing from our property for one reason or another. Instead of throwing them on the burn pile, I thought I might be able to make something of them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've always wanted to make a small wood sail boat. Something along the lines of this:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/e8/22/ab/e822aba14ec3b4324de78f13f078554b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/e8/22/ab/e822aba14ec3b4324de78f13f078554b.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's probably not what I'm going to start on as I'll most likely screw something up and have wasted a massive amount of effort. I'll probably start with a canoe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is what type of wood can I use from my property, properly dried of course. I'll either let it air dry or build one of those drying boxes you can build that act like a kind of oven. I love the look of cedar and we have a lot of it, but we've taken down a lot of oak as well and I know it's strong. It would probably be good for the ribs and the big beam along the bottom. (Transom?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm really just starting to look into this, so I don't know the right questions to ask. I assume with the wood, it's simply a strength issue, because it gets coated in fiberglass sheets. I've seen videos where they do that to seal it and when the coating goes on, it makes it look like there is nothing on the wood. This sailboat will only be run on a fresh water river. Thanks for any help. Feel free to include references.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="232" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-04-01T20:25:32.350" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T18:00:31.907" Title="Can you make a small wooden sail boat from cedar?" Tags="|green-wood|strength|boat-building|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="695" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-04-01T19:53:39.127" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-04-01T19:53:39.127" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T19:53:39.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="696" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-04-01T19:53:39.127" Score="0" Body="A non-wooden object, such as a nail or a staple, embedded in lumber" OwnerUserId="10" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-04-02T02:18:47.647" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T02:18:47.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="694" CreationDate="2015-04-01T20:00:55.370" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, provided you use fiberglass, and the technique is often called &quot;cedar strip construction&quot;. This method of construction is a very forgiving method of building small boats compared to other techniques.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pretty much any wood will work, though cedar and other rot-resistant woods are better because when you invariably bump into rocks or other stuff, and expose the wood through the fiberglass, that it doesn't rot away between when it gets damaged and you get around to fixing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason why the wood doesn't really matter is because virtually all the strength of the construction comes from the fiberglass. The wood only serves to keep the two layers of fiberglass separated, in what's known as a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sandwich-structured_composite&quot;&gt;sandwich structured composite&lt;/a&gt;. In typical fiberglass boat construction, foam is used between the layers, instead of wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the fiberglass is applied, without a gelcoat, it dries to be almost completely transparent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all that said, this works well for canoes and kayaks, however sailboats have many extra steps involved as they need to be much more rigid, are much bigger, and have hull shape needs that are challenging to accomplish with cedar strip construction such as provisions for a keel or centerboards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T20:00:55.370" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="99" CreationDate="2015-04-01T20:49:59.353" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Preventing tear out in reversing grain in panel glue ups can be handled with a card scrapers (and holders - highly recommended if you use card scrapers), scraper plane (see Lee Valley), cabinet scraper (Stanley #80), or a high angle (&gt;45°) plane. A higher, not lower, cutting angle prevents tear out. For the 45° bench plane, putting a 70°-80° bevel, about 1/16&quot; high, on the front of the chip breaker, and setting the breaker as close as possible to the blade edge, is the best set up for tear out (the breaker needs  to mate to the blade perfectly as well). Any blade for planing or scraping needs to be razor sharp. Reducing blade cutting depth also helps. A tight mouth just causes the mouth to jam with chips. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If on a budget, the Stanley #80 cabinet scraper is the best tool. My card scrapers only get used where I can't use the #80 ( or the Veritas scraper plane). Card scrapers are hard on the hands and wrists, and slow. For a panel (or table top), flatten with a plane, working cross grain, then at 45°. Finish with light passes parallel to the grain to check flatness. Finish flattening and removing tear out with the #80 (or the other choices). If you have cash, a bevel up smoothing plane is an excellent choice. It allows you to choose about any cutting angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forget dowels, biscuits, splines, or glue joint router bits for glue ups. Buy or make clamping cauls. Joint the boards straight (I like a slight hollow toward the center, just a few thou to pull the ends together) and just use an edge butt joint - today's glue will not fail. The clamping cauls will provide the most reliable alignment of the boards. There will still be some misalignment to clean up, but much less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T20:49:59.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="280" CreationDate="2015-04-01T20:56:48.997" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To completely remove the paint (nooks and crannys included), the wood will eventually have to be planed down. The majority could be removed with a heat gun and scraper, then planed to get the last traces off. A hand scraper could get paint out of nooks and crannys. You might consider just covering the timbers (box them in) with new wood of the type you want and finished the way you want. That would be my choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T20:56:48.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="357" CreationDate="2015-04-01T21:10:44.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Winding sticks will help to exaggerate twist or cup issues and make them easier to see. Shining a light underneath a thin straight edge, such as a ruler, ID's hi and low spots, which you mark with a pencil and work on. Start with your #6 plane vs the #4. The #4 is a smoother, for after the board is flat.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how you are going to use the boards, it may be best to get kinda flat, put the boards in place, the finish shaping/flattening everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T21:10:44.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="675" CreationDate="2015-04-01T21:21:08.450" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll add that the waste block, or glue block, can have a rabbet/tenon turned in it to be gripped by a chuck. Once the bowl is turned, you can start turning down the glue block as you desire, and can go smaller than the chuck diameter depending on thickness of the block. The bowl bottom can be prepped flat and smooth with the wood blank turned with the bottom out before attaching the glue block, not requiring much work to clean up after glue block removal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T21:21:08.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="670" CreationDate="2015-04-01T21:25:01.457" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes joints can be clamped too tight. Dry fit joints for good fit. Big strong clamps are band aids for poorly crafted joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T21:25:01.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="703" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="705" CreationDate="2015-04-01T21:38:59.047" Score="15" ViewCount="23442" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thickness planers I've seen have a cutter head between two rollers. The rollers grab the stock and feed it past the cutter head, counteracting the force applied by the blades. If the rollers do not have a secure grip on the stock, the cutter may kick the piece backwards if a blade catches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rOJlo.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Thickness planer diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Thicknesser.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Thicknesser.gif&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What safety risks does this present when planing short stock?&#xA;How can I determine the minimum length which can be safely planed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="281" LastActivityDate="2020-11-03T15:09:27.743" Title="What is the minimum length I can thickness plane?" Tags="|safety|thickness-planer|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="703" CreationDate="2015-04-01T21:42:28.523" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a rule of thumb, i never plane anything shorter than 12&quot;. I have the Dewalt DW734.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="189" LastEditorUserId="22" LastEditDate="2015-04-09T17:26:11.057" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T17:26:11.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="703" CreationDate="2015-04-01T21:55:08.513" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;It varies by model, check the manual online for the model you're looking at. Generally the shortest recommended length is also the distance between the center of the rollers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, you never want the possibility of a piece of wood being 'stuck' under the cutter head but not being held down by a roller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can counteract this limitation with some variation of a sled that holds short stock securely to the bottom with sacrificial 'rails' that ride the rollers and get planed down with the short stock itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T21:55:08.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="357" CreationDate="2015-04-01T21:57:12.123" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hesitate to jump in here because I don't have any data to add.  The previous answers give the proper procedure for flattening and although I have done it, I have not experienced your specific problem.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can only add that traditionally, a #4 (in the Stanley numbering system) is used for final smoothing.  Flattening would usually be done by a #7 or #8.  I'm not sure about the #6; perhaps its design was a compromise between those two extremes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had problems in the past with a #4 leaving a track or line where one corner of the iron dug in but this doesn't seem to be what you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But since a #4 is relatively short, you could possibly see a non-flat surface.  I need to edit this later with a link to an explanation of why a long-soled plane works better for flattening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T21:57:12.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="707" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="709" CreationDate="2015-04-02T05:32:12.810" Score="27" ViewCount="68363" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to join two boards end-to-end, effectively making a longer board. Thus, the glue will be on the end grain of both pieces (highlighted blue.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qHIGK.png&quot; alt=&quot;Joining boards end to end&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Source: self)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that an end-grain butt joint is among the weakest joints, so how can I make this stronger? I could lose some of the length on some pieces, but on others I need the full length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="281" LastEditorUserId="281" LastEditDate="2015-04-02T18:34:19.817" LastActivityDate="2019-08-03T09:39:41.473" Title="How can I join two boards at the ends?" Tags="|joinery|glue|end-grain|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="707" CreationDate="2015-04-02T07:33:40.173" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use a long lap joint here, but one of the standard ways to join two boards like this when cutting by hand is to form what's called a scarf joint. This is approved by the Federal Aviation Administration so if it is strong enough for airplanes it probably will suffice for your use as well. The key for FAA approval is 12x to 15x angle measured as length/thickness as shown in the following diagram as (8x):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1aOk8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1aOk8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;scarf joint&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://palaeos.com/vertebrates/glossary/images/ScarfJoint.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;palaeos.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(note the detail of the length of the cut face). This cuts off the end grain and creates two long-grain faces that then glue up much more strongly. However, you may not end up with a piece of wood as strong as a complete board unless you use further reinforcement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other forms of scarf joint, some with interlocking features that look like what we now associate with Japanese joinery, and while they create joins that are much stronger in many cases they are far more challenging to cut accurately. See more in the Scarf Joint section of William Fairham's classic book, &lt;strong&gt;Woodwork Joints&lt;/strong&gt; which you can find on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/21531&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Project Gutenberg&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2019-03-11T08:58:29.950" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="707" CreationDate="2015-04-02T07:39:55.950" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dowels and biscuits are &lt;em&gt;length-preserving&lt;/em&gt;, cheap and common ways of generating some long-grain glueing surface. They're not quite as strong as other solutions, but usually entirely sufficient.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For dowels, you only need a drill and transfer plugs (or a dowel jig, which is more expensive). If you don't even have transfer plugs, you can improvise them with a dowel and a nail, or even with a dowel and a felt marker (no joke, done that before...). For biscuits, there is a special kind of tool, the &quot;biscuit joiner&quot;, which makes sawing the slits in an automated process (not exactly the Mount Everest of traditional craftmanship, but it works very well).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tongue and groove is very slightly more work than the above. If you have appropriate tools (a router will for example do, but manual tools are perfectly fine), it's a matter of minutes. I'm using a plow plane for that since taking the router out of the box and assembling/adjusting everything takes about as long as it will take me doing the tongue and groove with the plow plane, and I don't need hearing protection, nor is there a lot of fine dust. Hand saw and chisel certainly works, too, for the patient and dedicated traditional craftsman.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The tongue can also be loose (a separate piece of wood) which is basically like a single large biscuit going all the way through. The advantage of a loose tongue is that you do not lose length. Mind that the external appearance is different, you'll see end-grain at the tongue, which can be undesirable but can also be very desirable (indeed sometimes people deliberately use a completely different wood for contrast, it can look pretty cool).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then of course there are about two dozen variations of joinery that you could use, all of which &lt;em&gt;do lose some length&lt;/em&gt;, however.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;What to use is hard to answer, as it depends on how much work you want to put into this, how stable it has to be, in which direction the expected force will act, and what &quot;look&quot; you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A simple lap joint, for example, is perfectly fine if you do not have any &quot;special needs&quot; on stability. It can be made easily and quickly with no tools but saw and chisel, or with a rabbet plane (or, of course, if you have a router, with the router).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="135" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2015-04-02T13:44:18.010" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T13:44:18.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="703" CreationDate="2015-04-02T07:43:16.627" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Technically there's no minimum length you can send through a thickness planer if you 'cheat'. There are various tricks that allow planing of material both too thin and too short and they can work well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For short stock you use outriggers, pieces of scrap wood glued to either side of the board you want to plane. Like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CU2SE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Outriggers glued to short board for sending through planer&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/how-to-plane-short-boards/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/how-to-plane-short-boards/index.html&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20110902024055/http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/how-to-plane-short-boards/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;archive&lt;/a&gt;))&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you've planed to thickness you simply pop the outriggers off with a chisel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2016-02-12T03:41:29.937" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T03:41:29.937" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="670" CreationDate="2015-04-02T08:19:23.443" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes clamps can be too tight but &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; for the reasons stated above. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR&lt;/strong&gt; The fear is that over-clamping will lead to a starved joint is largely baseless. In practice it is nearly impossible to do without severely damaging the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Necessary clamp pressure has been studied extensively by scientists for the timber industry, who, unlike woodworkers, can't rely on hearsay, half-truths and best guesses. They have to &lt;em&gt;know&lt;/em&gt; how to create the strongest possible joint. And such testing has proven that very high clamp pressures are required for the strongest joint to form, beyond 1,000 pounds per square inch for some species (NOTE: this is at the glue-line, so the pressure applied by the clamp face is many thousands of pounds) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the home woodworker here's the take-home message: short of crushing the timber it's nearly impossible to over-clamp. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The persistent myth that you can starve a joint by over-clamping it is based on a flawed understanding of how glue works in a wood joint and/or misinterpreting individual experiences where this appeared to happen. The actual cause however was one, or a combination of, other factors. These include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;too little glue applied, which leads to incomplete wetting of the opposite face&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;waiting too long before bringing the workpieces together, which also leads to incomplete wetting of the opposite face&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not glueing freshly-worked wood surfaces — wood surfaces cut, planed or sanded can 'glaze' over time, meaning they're no longer as absorbent and therefore they can't be wet properly by the glue&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wood surfaces not flat or smooth enough, wood must be &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; smooth for a good joint to form with the mating surface&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;clamps being removed before the glue had dried sufficiently&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: the above apply to conventional wood glues, including polyurethane adhesive, but &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; to epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly let me clearly state that Matthias Wandel's glue test linked to above is highly flawed and not at all scientific. He acknowledges himself that he didn't give epoxy a fair test (which he didn't) and yet he did not repeat those tests. That's the first hint that you might want to take the results with a pinch of salt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T08:19:23.443" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="672" CreationDate="2015-04-02T08:44:53.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short, no. Diamond plates, waterstones, oilstones, abrasive paper/film, grinders, paper wheels and conventional strops can all form part of a sharpening system capable of creating the very sharp edge needed for a chisel or other edged tool used in woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're after a simple 'trick' to make the process more repeatable then I strongly recommend a sharpening jig. But not one of the commercial types, you can make one &lt;a href=&quot;https://s3.amazonaws.com/lumberjocks.com/lscjfov.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;from shop scraps and a couple of machine screws or bolts&lt;/a&gt;. And as basic as it looks that works as well as any commercial jig (and actually better than some, because the wider base almost completely solves the rocking problem which is inherent to single-wheel designs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/assets/uploads/posts/36448/IMG_0034.JPG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is another very simple jig&lt;/a&gt; that shows how simple a jig can be and still work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would however still encourage you to work on your hand sharpening, it's a lifetime skill and while it takes practice and dedication to get good at it it more than repays the investment in time with the speed and efficiency with which you can form sharp edges and maintain them. Working by hand you can easily do a top-up sharpen on a chisel in under two minutes, before many tools and jigs have even been set up properly, much less the time needed to pre-soak a waterstone. And if you use stropping the keenest edge can be put back on your chisel in as little as 10 or 20 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strongly recommend you check out Paul Sellers's videos showing him sharpening and talking about the process, they're clear and unambiguous and boil the process down into the simplest steps. And his results, as you'll see, speak for themselves. To get you started, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ki8tt-VjwqI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here's one showing him sharpening a cheap chisel start to finish.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T08:44:53.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="707" CreationDate="2015-04-02T12:27:28.707" Score="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is also a bit for routers that can make what is called a finger joint.  It makes many narrow interlocking 'fingers' to increase the gluing surface area.  This was designed for joining boards end to end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sUC0a.png&quot; alt=&quot;Finger Bit and Joint&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-04-02T12:36:31.557" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T12:36:31.557" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="714" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="725" CreationDate="2015-04-02T12:58:58.603" Score="10" ViewCount="2587" Body="&lt;p&gt;At my woodshop, it's typically suggested that I sand up to 220 grit or 320 grit. I'm &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; amazed at how smooth my surface feels after a good 320-grit sanding.  However, when looking online I sometimes see advice to sand up to 600 grit. 600! That must be like glass!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand it's a matter of taste vs effort, but at some point there must be too little improvement to take another pass with a higher grit.  How do I know what this point is? Does it depend on the finish that I'm going to apply?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T10:13:12.983" Title="How much grit do I need?" Tags="|sanding|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="714" CreationDate="2015-04-02T13:03:07.963" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;For most cases in which you intend to put on a film finish (like shellac, lacquer, or a varnish) it is enough to sand the wood to 220.  (I suppose the same would be true if you intend to use an oil finish too).  Nothing wrong with 320 - if that's all the store has, it works more or less the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Higher grits are really for sanding the film finish after you've built up enough thickness not to sand through it.  These higher grits will allow you to create ever more polished finishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-03T14:37:39.717" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T14:37:39.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="714" CreationDate="2015-04-02T13:11:19.270" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding to glw some of it depends on the wood.  Some woods I've used 220 is as good as you are going to get, anything higher doesn't do anything and sometimes actually makes it look worse.  Pine and other softwoods really don't benefit much from higher grits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Red oak maxes out at about 320 anything higher and your just wasting your time.  White oak is debatable, 400 is does a little but isn't really necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hard Maple I've sanded to 600 grit and you almost get a semigloss finish before you put anything on it.  The denser the wood (with a closed grain) the higher the grit can actually make some difference.  I suspect ebony would glow with a sanding up to 1000 grit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T13:11:19.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="717" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-04-02T13:18:49.873" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-04-02T13:18:49.873" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T13:18:49.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="718" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-04-02T13:18:49.873" Score="0" Body="Used to bore holes through wood. Types, techniques, safety." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T20:01:11.110" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T20:01:11.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="719" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-04-02T13:20:53.753" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are numerous different shapes/types of chisel (e.g. bevel-edged and firmer styles which have flat sides, socketed or with a tang), in a range of widths from perhaps 1/8&quot; (3mm) at narrowest to 2&quot; (50mm) and more at the widest, as well as different sizes, with &lt;em&gt;butt chisels&lt;/em&gt; for example being deliberately shortened both in the blade and sometimes also the handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T20:42:28.863" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T20:42:28.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="720" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-04-02T13:20:53.753" Score="0" Body="A flat-bladed hand tool usually struck by a mallet to cut and shape wood.  " OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T20:42:28.863" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T20:42:28.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="721" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-04-02T13:27:40.000" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-04-02T13:27:40.000" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T13:27:40.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="722" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-04-02T13:27:40.000" Score="0" Body="The finishing touches to a project to hide joinery and add visual appeal (includes window trim and baseboards)" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-02T16:25:31.110" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T16:25:31.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="723" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-04-02T13:29:12.617" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-04-02T13:29:12.617" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T13:29:12.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="724" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-04-02T13:29:12.617" Score="0" Body="Machine to make the faces of a board or panel parallel, flat and to the desired thickness. " OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T20:02:36.877" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T20:02:36.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="714" CreationDate="2015-04-02T13:39:18.320" Score="10" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I understand it's a matter of taste vs effort&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually not as much as people tend to believe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanding to 320 grit may itself be too high, and above 400 you can definitely run into problems. Some woods &lt;em&gt;burnish&lt;/em&gt; when rubbed with higher-grit papers and this can prevent the proper penetration of finish, which helps ensures a more even colour and the formation of a proper bond between it and the wood. Burnished wood can resist finish, even to the point that it will bead on the surface sometimes and to fix this you need to re-sand at a coarser grit to 'open' the surface of the wood again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What determines the grit you &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; to sand to is not so much personal preference but rather whether you are finishing the wood and with what. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oiled finishes require a more meticulous approach to final smoothing because they don't build a film and after oiling minor surface imperfections are magnified, not hidden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a film-building finish (shellac, varnish, lacquer) you get a filling-in of minor surface imperfections, including sanding scratches. This is why you can get away with sanding up to a coarser grit and still achieve a very smooth final surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a film finish, depending on the species, even 150 can be high enough. But the normal range to finish sand is between 180 and 240. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do not intend to apply a finish — which can be used for dense hardwoods, particularly tropical species with a naturally high resin content — then you can sand to very high grits indeed because you're actually polishing the wood itself. Even beyond the 600 you mention, I've seen the results of sanding past P1600 and you do get increasing shine, up to a limit dependent upon the density and resin content of the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-03T14:43:25.230" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T14:43:25.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="685" CreationDate="2015-04-02T14:04:36.730" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to be able to screw and unscrew it many times, instead of using wood screws, use threaded inserts in the main structure and use machine screws to hold the ramp to it. &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UkFcZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rockler Threaded Insert&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T14:04:36.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="357" CreationDate="2015-04-02T14:06:13.167" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;but I never get completely flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We're not supposed to ask questions but normally I'd ask here in what way(s) your boards aren't flat after planing with the no. 4. If you can identify a consistent out-of-flat condition to the boards after planing this is a much easier fix than to suggest all the possible ways to maintain flat during hand-planing operations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a simple case of what used to be called &quot;dubbing over&quot;, which is low leading edge and trailing edge, application of the proper hand pressure during planing should help resolve this (along with regular checking of your progress).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When starting the cut, press down firmly on the toe of the plane with the secondary hand grasping the knob; this helps keep the plane flat to the wood as the cut starts. During the cut pressure is lessened on that leading hand until no pressure is applied at the knob at all by the end, with the dominant hand pushing down and forward to complete the cut. Some guides suggest you think of the plane 'taking off' as you leave the surface of the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This page, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.startwoodworking.com/post/handplaning-101&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Handplaning 101&lt;/a&gt;, and this page, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodworking.com/ww/Article/Using-a-Bench-Plane-7583.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Using a Bench Plane&lt;/a&gt;, have similar advice and more that may be of further help. You might also find this four-page article from a 1948 issue of Popular Science a useful read, called &lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.com/books?id=XCcDAAAAMBAJ&amp;amp;pg=PA200&amp;amp;lpg=PA200&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Surfacing a Board by Hand&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I know one issue I'll have to sort out is holding the work while planing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a great many simple tips for keeping a board in place for planing. One of the easiest is just to drive two screws into the workbench top. The edge of the screw heads dig into the end grain of the board and keeps it remarkable stable. This method has the advantage that you can screw in or back off the screws to vary their holding height for various thicknesses of stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But of course you may not wish to have screws in the surface of your workbench so an alternative to this is to make a simple planing stop (or more than one, of varying heights) from strips of wood or ply of suitable thicknesses, that you hold in place with the leg or face vice, or with clamps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To add greater stability to the board during cross planing operations you need to hold the rear of the board too and perhaps the best method for this is using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theenglishwoodworker.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/holdfast-and-batten.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a notched batten&lt;/a&gt; which is held firmly with a holdfast as shown, or with any suitable clamp. This can be used in conjunction with the above two methods or with any bench dog or other slid-up stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2015-04-02T14:57:38.597" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T14:57:38.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="728" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-02T16:21:30.170" Score="11" ViewCount="27910" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever I try to make a hole slightly larger with my cordless drill, the drill bit catches and wanders, and doesn't stay centered. Normally I use twist bits, but I'm pretty sure I would have the same problem with most (or all?) other types of bits (e.g., brad point, spade, hole saw, Forstner). I know I could fill and redrill the hole, but that would be a pain, I'd have to wait for the filler to dry or cure, and I'd have to re-mark the center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I quickly and easily enlarge a drilled hole without moving the hole or having to resort to some other tool like a drill press (which often wouldn't be practical) or a router jig (as mentioned in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/410/enlarging-a-stepped-through-hole&quot;&gt;Enlarging a stepped through hole&lt;/a&gt; -- which would not work for small holes)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T00:41:11.167" Title="What is the best way to enlarge a hole with my cordless drill?" Tags="|drilling|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="728" CreationDate="2015-04-02T16:30:27.657" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you use some sort of bushing to guide the drill and keep it on course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use these from Big Gator Tools at Woodcraft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RhlSb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Big Gator Tools&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T16:30:27.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="728" CreationDate="2015-04-02T16:32:48.297" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is to use a guide. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can take a larger piece of hardwood and drill a hole of the larger size through it, then clamp it over the hole you wish to enlarge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're lucky and the hole you wish to embiggen is the 'next' size up, a step drill bit may work, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T16:32:48.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="728" CreationDate="2015-04-02T17:04:14.767" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally if the bits are small enough that they are 'solid' not spades or forsner etc, I generally have no issue running a larger bit through, sometimes I even use small bits to make a pilot hole to follow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as the holes get bigger it becomes difficult to impossible, without a guide or a drill press.  But there are stepped drill bits and these can help enlarge a hole, they are basically 'self-guided' bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VsOpj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T17:04:14.767" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="732" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="733" CreationDate="2015-04-02T17:37:45.640" Score="10" ViewCount="724" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a contractor style table saw and haven't invested in much dust collection, so there is a lot of sawdust stuck all over the lift and tilt mechanisms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Dpxl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;dusty table saw internals&quot;&gt;&#xA;(Source: self)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I've removed this, how should I treat the internals of the saw? Specifically, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there something I should put on all inner parts to repel dust?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What should I put on the teeth of the lift and tilt gears and screws?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="281" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-16T14:09:30.303" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T14:09:30.303" Title="How should I treat the internals of my table saw?" Tags="|table-saw|tool-maintenance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="732" CreationDate="2015-04-02T19:36:34.320" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've identified the conundrum- anything that lubricates the bearing surfaces will also collect sawdust. There's nothing in my experience that a) lubricates parts and b) repels dust effectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your saw is hard to raise or tilt, try a spray lubricant containing lithium grease on the gears and the corresponding shafts. If that doesn't help, check the (usually) brass or bronze bushings where the pivots are, see if it's caked with fine sawdust. First try blowing it out with everything in the highest / most tilted position, then the opposite. Also try an old used toothbush. Fixing this might mean tearing your saw apart, but it shouldn't be something you have to do more than once a year or so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T19:36:34.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="732" CreationDate="2015-04-02T19:57:52.620" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A graphite lubricant like type used for locks would work well and typically has no solvent or has a carrier that flashes off immediately. But I imagine it will not last long because some of the graphite powder will be carried away by sawdust each time you clean the saw out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Paste wax will help to prevent rust buildup on exposed steel and iron parts. It will take an hour or more to dry to the point where it's not tacky, best to let it sit overnight. It may help lubricate parts but it will wear off quickly where steel is rubbing on other steel parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="68" LastEditorUserId="68" LastEditDate="2015-04-02T20:03:48.427" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T20:03:48.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="735" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="736" CreationDate="2015-04-03T05:21:00.270" Score="17" ViewCount="3327" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am starting a new project and intend to use more joinery techniques.  I am going to make a chair, and I was hoping to create some mortise and tenon joints for the chair that I am making.  I do not have access to a router at this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I create mortise and tenon joints by hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="301" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-04-03T17:52:27.870" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T13:07:54.453" Title="How do I make a mortise and tenon joints by hand" Tags="|technique|joinery|hand-tools|mortise-and-tenon|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="735" CreationDate="2015-04-03T09:19:32.280" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chisel to create the mortise -- you can save a huge amount of work by drilling out most of the waste. Saw the tenon to slightly over the final size (saw outside the markup lines), then fine tune with plane and chisel (shoulder plane will avoid the need to chisel).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is always a traditional hand-tool solution.  It may or may not be more work, and often that depends on how many you need to make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that dowels, loose tenons, lap joints or other joinery options may also be worth consideration.  M&amp;amp;T is elegant but not every joint needs elegance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-03T14:21:36.037" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T14:21:36.037" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="707" CreationDate="2015-04-03T11:12:55.710" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could make a lap joint with a router, then put a few dowels of appropriate size through the joint at right angles to the boards to tie everything together so you're not counting on the shear strength of the glue to hold it all together. IMO this is much easier to put together than a scarf joint as long as appearance is not critical, and as long as you don't mind dragging out the router&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="302" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T11:12:55.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="739" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="742" CreationDate="2015-04-03T13:14:35.013" Score="8" ViewCount="7759" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used in the past foam brushes to apply my water-based varnish.  I'm wondering if there's other types of brush that can be used and what are the advantages and disadvantages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastActivityDate="2019-04-20T09:51:19.167" Title="What should I use to apply a water-based varnish?" Tags="|finishing|varnish|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="739" CreationDate="2015-04-03T13:34:24.653" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend spraying water-based varnishes. They dry out really fast and, unless you're working in a very small area, it's easy to get brush strokes showing in the finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T13:34:24.653" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="741" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="753" CreationDate="2015-04-03T15:06:08.690" Score="22" ViewCount="36809" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tend to like power tools, because I need a lot less 'skill' to get the same quality product.  However, I do like learning hand tool techniques and sometimes they are just as good or better than power tools.  Sometimes faster if you only have one or two 'pieces' to do, instead of setting up the power tools to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I keep catching comments in different places about planing end grain.  Do you need special planes?  Special technique?  Just use a beltsander? :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of plane and how do you use it (them) to plane the end grain of a board and are there any gotchas to look out for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2022-01-26T17:02:58.360" Title="How do you plane end grain?" Tags="|plane|end-grain|hand-planing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="739" CreationDate="2015-04-03T15:06:11.497" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, besides foam there are synthetic bristle brushes and natural bristle brushes (as well as sprayers, air-brushes and rollers, which I'm not going to discuss). There is great debate over which to use for what; that debate rages from house painters to fine artists. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most agree synthetic bristle brushes for water-base varnishes, acrylics and the like and natural bristles for oil-based mediums (the solvents can damage some synthetic bristles).  For me, both types work well but have slight differences in how much paint is held, how the paint leaves the brush, etc. I find I 'get use to' how the brush handles fairly quickly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is the question of shape, which for most furniture folk, is less of an issue unless you are doing decorative painting, stenciling or similar work. For transparent finishes, a flat tipped brush is most common. But if you have something else that you like, great; use that. Your experience with foam will guide you regarding shapes you like (for getting into corners, for example) and widths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While slightly off question, it is worth noting that you can tweak your finish to work with your brushes. For example, by adding more thinner (water in your case) you can create a thinner coat that dries with less visible brush strokes. This also applies to binders and in the case of paints, the pigments as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brush#Paintbrushes&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brush#Paintbrushes&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paint#Components&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paint#Components&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T15:06:11.497" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="741" CreationDate="2015-04-03T15:21:54.737" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;For end grain a razor-sharp blade is most important, and you can skew your cut to slice the fibers rather than chop them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The type of plane isn't particularly important, but one with a low cutting angle works best.  For instance, you can use a low-angle block plane or a bevel-up jack plane with its blade sharpened to a low angle.  You can also convert a bevel-down bench plane to a low-angle plane by replacing its frog with a low-angle frog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, a low-angle block plane typically has a 12 degree bed angle and 25 degree bevel angle, for a combined 37 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-04-03T15:38:40.727" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T15:38:40.727" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="744" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-03T15:32:28.083" Score="5" ViewCount="1766" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen finishes (and finishing techniques) described as providing a lot of &quot;luster&quot;. I can understand matte, which is similar to satin, and that sheen is akin to gloss. But what do people mean when something has a lot of &quot;luster&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2015-04-04T07:31:10.463" Title="What is luster?" Tags="|finishing|terminology|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="746" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-04-03T16:18:48.777" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-04-03T16:18:48.777" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T16:18:48.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="747" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-04-03T16:18:48.777" Score="0" Body="The place(s) where the woodworking happens.  Sizes, requirements, setup safety concerns etc." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-03T17:23:49.813" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T17:23:49.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="748" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-04-03T16:23:47.173" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Miter saws may be either power or hand operated units.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E4C9r.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E4C9r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Powered Miter saw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/De2w8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/De2w8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-01-12T14:42:34.063" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T14:42:34.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="749" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-04-03T16:23:47.173" Score="0" Body="Saws designed to cut wood at different angles to make joints." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-03T17:24:02.627" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T17:24:02.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="744" CreationDate="2015-04-03T16:26:15.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;luster is the sheen and clarity which adds depth as well as shine showing the beauty of the wood species.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="305" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T16:26:15.027" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="744" CreationDate="2015-04-03T17:05:43.927" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let me preface my comment by saying that quite a bit of the terminology used in woodworking is used loosely or informally, so one person's understanding of and use of a word may not match another person's precisely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far back as I can remember knowing it, lustre in this context was used merely as another word for shine (this is in British English). Dictionary.com's listing for the word notes that it is chiefly British and gives as the first definition: &lt;em&gt;1. reflected light; sheen; gloss&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I can understand matte, which is similar to satin&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the coatings industry satin would normally mean a sheen level somewhere between matt and gloss. Matt and satin &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mpi.net/mpitraining/level1/standards/MPI_Gloss_Levels.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;gloss levels&lt;/a&gt; do vary from one product to another however, meaning it possible to find a matt varnish from one manufacturer and a satin varnish from another that have approximately the same gloss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note since this keeps on getting 'corrected': matte (American English) = matt (British English).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2015-04-04T07:31:10.463" LastActivityDate="2015-04-04T07:31:10.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="735" CreationDate="2015-04-03T17:29:11.607" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The old way to cut a mortise purely by chisel is the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You need a mortising chisel which is a chisel of the width of the mortise with the sides narrower than the blade, and a mallet.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The chisel is held straight up and driven into the wood near one end of the mortise with the flat of the blade facing the near end.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The blade is then walked away from the end and another blow struck. A chip should fly out.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This continues until reaching the other end of the mortise where the chisel is turned around and the blade is driven exactly true to the end&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The blade is then walked back again towards the first end. Ideally this pass should cut the depth of mortise exactly to what is needed. Obviously it takes a great deal of skill so that each blow sends the blade to the correct depth and no further.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When the original end is reached the blade turned around a second and final time, cutting the first end exactly true.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A mortise is always cut across the grain&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The chisel should never be applied to the sides of the mortise, only from end to end&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-04-03T18:15:29.530" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T18:15:29.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="741" CreationDate="2015-04-03T17:41:26.043" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Western woodworking at least low-angle block planes are favoured for planing end grain. These will generally give the best result, but any plane can do it if the iron is sharp enough and you take a very light cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Terminology note: a plane's blade is traditionally referred to as an iron, in older books sometimes as the cutter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;are there any gotchas to look out for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, breakout of the long grain at the edge of the board is always a concern. There are three common ways of dealing with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is to plane in from both ends, but I find this least satisfactory because you tend to see an obvious difference in the finish of the end grain (because the tips of the 'straws' are facing in opposite direction they catch light differently).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second is possibly the simplest and is 100% effective, which is to clamp a piece of scrap wood onto the edge of the board which supports the long grain at the end of the cut. This is the method I favour personally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above techniques are shown in this image.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hKLrl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third method is to plane a small chamfer onto the end of the board, then plane down to meet it. Note this does not always work, so I would advise not relying on it for any critical job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another general tip that can help regardless of the technique used is to dampen the end grain, which makes it softer and therefore easier to shear through. You can use water, although you risk raising the grain on the faces of the board, so some woodworkers instead use denatured alcohol (UK: methylated spirits) or mineral spirits (UK: white spirit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just use a beltsander? :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Joking aside that isn't the worst way to deal with finishing end grain on a board, as long as you can hold the 90° angle accurately. Although you will commonly want to sand beyond the grit that belts are available in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-01-26T17:02:58.360" LastActivityDate="2022-01-26T17:02:58.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="754" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-03T17:44:07.010" Score="12" ViewCount="39787" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is already a question about &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/735/how-do-i-make-a-mortise-and-tenon-joints-by-hand&quot;&gt;making mortise and tenon joints using hand tools&lt;/a&gt;. It would be nice to also catalog the various ways of making mortise and tenon joints using power tools. Wherever a jig is required for safety or quality of fit, please also include a photo or link to the type of jig mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2023-08-31T23:52:01.627" Title="How do you make mortise and tenon joints using power tools?" Tags="|joinery|technique|power-tools|mortise-and-tenon|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="744" CreationDate="2015-04-03T17:44:08.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Luster (lustre for the British) has many uses. In reference to wood, it refers to the reflective quality of the grain of the wood. You may have noticed that a nicely figured piece of wood will look different as the light hits it from different angles or as you walk around a piece. I have heard people refer to this as 'the wood looking alive'. &#xA;Opaque finished will mask this reflective quality and transparent finishes will make it easier to see (so would wetting the wood, but that is less permanent). Some stains will enhance the contrast between the reflecting wood and the rest. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T17:44:08.870" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="756" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="765" CreationDate="2015-04-03T17:53:29.960" Score="30" ViewCount="144645" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building some speaker cabinets for my living room out of MDF. I'm wondering how to achieve that &quot;high gloss&quot; / &quot;piano black&quot; look, like on B&amp;amp;W speakers or, well, black pianos...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas? I'm pretty sure it involves lots of layers of lacquer, but does anyone have any specific advice to give - spray or brush, how many layers, surface preparation, what kind of topcoat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="307" LastActivityDate="2018-12-21T00:40:11.910" Title="How do I achieve a &quot;piano black&quot; high gloss finish on wood?" Tags="|finishing|finish|varnish|paint|mdf|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="757" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-03T17:59:12.400" Score="9" ViewCount="315" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a cheap Craftsman dovetail jig for my router but have never tried using it. I regularly hear people complain about the lower-end dovetail jigs but praise the expensive, high-end (often $400+) jigs. What are the problems that people have with the cheaper jigs, and what's so great about the more expensive ones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-04-03T18:06:04.177" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T18:39:58.497" Title="What are the difficulties that people run into when using a dovetail jig?" Tags="|router|jig|dovetail|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="754" CreationDate="2015-04-03T18:00:07.837" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;To make the mortise, you can get a dedicated mortising machine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_17505.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/trs7r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;dedicated mortising machine&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image courtesy of Harbor Freight&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also get a mortising attachment for your drill press:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://images.lowes.com/product/converted/847962/847962002730lg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gAPA3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;mortise attachment for drill press&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image courtesy of Lowes&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt;: Some people feel that these attachments require too much force be applied to the quill and handle of your drill press. I've used my attachment on a bench-top drill press a few times and don't recall any excessive amounts of pressure. If you're making a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of mortises, you'll probably want to invest in a dedicated mortising machine anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either machine uses a mortising chisel to cut a square hole:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.leevalley.com/us/images/item/woodworking/drilling/04j1016-dsp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Px4w5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;mortising bit assortment&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image courtesy of Lee Valley&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tenons can be cut on a table saw using a tenoning jig. Here is a commercially available one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodgears.ca/tenon/delta_tenon_jig.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gk2eq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;commercial tenoning jig&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image courtesy of woodgears.ca&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here is a shop built version:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/tablesaw/shop-made-tablesaw-tenoning-jig/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/alJVJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;plans for a shop-built tenoning jig&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image courtesy Wood Magazine. Image links to the instructions to build it.&lt;br&gt;No particular endorsement, that's the first shop-built one Google coughed up&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2021-10-08T16:01:06.860" LastActivityDate="2021-10-08T16:01:06.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="739" CreationDate="2015-04-03T18:04:35.380" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Synthetic brushes were originally specifically intended for application of water-borne finishes. Compared to natural hair brushes synthetics are better in one key respect: they don't soften in water. Natural bristles &quot;lose their spring&quot; when wet, they are still usable with waterbase finishes but they become slack and unresponsive so they don't perform at their best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best modern synthetics have a mixture of filaments of varied diameter and they may in addition taper towards the tip, both of which contribute to improved capillary action (helping to match the performance of natural brushes). Another feature of better modern synthetic brushes is ends that have been frayed, which mimics the natural 'flags' found on traditional hog-hair brushes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience foam brushes are not ideally suited to application of waterbase finishes, primarily because they increase the tendency of bubbles to form as you brush over the surface. Because of this I think foam brushes are best for oil-based or spirit-borne finishes which are less prone to bubble formation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T18:04:35.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="744" CreationDate="2015-04-03T18:06:21.567" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Luster is the amount of particulate matter imbedded in the finish.  Often the particles are silica.  The more particulate matter, the more the appearance of the wood is dulled by light scattered from the intervening particulate matter. The highest luster, often called gloss or bright, has no particulate matter in the finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="309" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T18:06:21.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="754" CreationDate="2015-04-03T18:13:19.500" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Copying my answer from the 'by hand' question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mortise as the other have mentioned can be done with a hammer and chisel, and drilling consecutive holes to the correct depth will help speed the process up.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a drill press that will make the job easier and you can be very accurate on how deep you drill all the holes.  If you are using power drill, you might want a collar for the drill bit for depth.&#xA;Here's an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodworking.com/ww/Article/Drilling-Mortises-7384.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; for step by step directions with pictures for the mortise.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ATWfS.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Drilling mortise&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a little extra money to spend you can buy and actual mortising machine, it drills square holes. It has a drill bit with 4 chisels surrounding it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CSqQN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;mortising bit&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cutting the tenon.  There are many different ways to do this.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Of course there is the handsaw, routers etc.  You can also use a table saw.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The table saw can be used several different ways, the easiest would be if you have a Dado blade so you can run the pieces flat across the saw table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do it without the dado as well, just make a bunch of cuts and then clean them up with a chisel.  At the very least you can cut the shoulders of the tenon on the table saw, giving you an nice square cut to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also tenoning jigs for the table saw which you cut the face of the tenon with one pass, so a full tenon would be 4 passes.  Kind of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/tablesaw/shop-made-tablesaw-tenoning-jig/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;like this&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZVqkK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ksd6V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tenon Jig&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T18:13:19.500" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="757" CreationDate="2015-04-03T18:16:25.747" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The one advantage that seems to get people excited? Variable width / spacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a fixed width / spacing jig then you either have to design your projects based on the spacing, letting the tool determine the design, or you end up with a partial dovetail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That partial dovetail may or may not be ugly, especially if you can center it on the piece, but having the ability to space them out based on the project is a real bonus. (It also makes it look more like hand-cut dovetails.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T18:16:25.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="757" CreationDate="2015-04-03T18:39:58.497" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a pair of dovetail templates. They came with a pair of bits to do the cutting.  These are some of the 'cheap' ones but still cost me enough.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first problem I had was they just sent the aluminum template.  It was my job to mount them on wooded blocks (for clamping to the board) and adjust them so that they fit snugly (the pins and tails).  This took me quite a while and I really only have one set adjusted right, the other is close but still too sloppy.  They are hard to adjust because of how they were designed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second problem is lining up the board correctly with the end of the template, if you are off you will not line up your ends right.  You also need to start on opposite ends of the template if you want both ends of the same board to match the same 'partial' tail or pin. (on top or bottom).  So you need to do a bit of extra paying attention to make sure when you are done the boards all go back together and make a square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't tried using the template on a board longer than the template but I'm sure that will be a much larger headache.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T18:39:58.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="754" CreationDate="2015-04-03T18:42:54.510" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Long mortises and tenons, like the following, are probably best created with a hand router and a table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gVflv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Walnut bench showing long mortise and tenon where where the legs attach&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Mortise&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the mortise, you will need&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A jig or brace to ensure a straight path for your router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A straight router bit with a flat blade on the top will provide the necessary cut. However, a spiral-fluted bit will make the cut easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, make sure the diameter is less than or equal to the width of your mortise. If it's less then you'll have to adjust your jig or set up a second one corresponding to each edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hufya.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sample straight router bits used for creating a mortise&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oA7Z9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sample fluted-spiral bit used for creating a mortise&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;from &lt;a href=&quot;http://rockler.com&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rockler.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The router will leave rounded edges to the mortise. In order to square them up, you'll have to use a hand tool like a chisel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9CT1a.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rounded and squared mortise with chisel shown&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://acornhouseworkshop.com&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;acornhouseworkshop.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Tenon&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in other answers, a matching long tenon can be made with a table saw, a dado blade, and a tenoning jig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T19:38:39.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="756" CreationDate="2015-04-03T20:51:08.370" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used this guy's technique before and it works great.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, you apply very thin coats, then sand to about 400 grit, and after that, do wet sanding to about 2000 grit, and then switch to the polishes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a pretty complete step-by-step &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/67501/how-to-paint-mdf-to-a-mirror-finish-worklog&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T20:51:08.370" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="766" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-04-03T21:45:27.890" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-04-03T21:45:27.890" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T21:45:27.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="767" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-04-03T21:45:27.890" Score="0" Body="A film finish which hardens or cures to form a protective layer. Polyurethane, lacquer, and shellac are some examples of common types of varnish." OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-04-04T04:47:46.447" LastActivityDate="2015-04-04T04:47:46.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="768" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="773" CreationDate="2015-04-04T01:58:43.350" Score="38" ViewCount="85082" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I know, dust collectors are generally quieter, hold more chips, and can support a larger hose than a shop vac.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides this, are there any advantages related to suction? Can dust collectors pick up or filter things that a shop vac can't?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="281" LastActivityDate="2017-11-28T22:30:37.007" Title="What advantages does a dust collector have over a shop vac?" Tags="|sawdust|dust-collection|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="754" CreationDate="2015-04-04T02:10:15.023" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another alternative is to make and use a horizontal mortising machine.  It's much easier than you might think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use mine to make loose tenon mortise and tenon joints.  It's a joy to use.  There were 18 mortise and tenon joints per chair in my dining room table set project.  That's 108 joints.  That's far too many conventional mortise and tenon joints to be practical. So I built this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/108679476/IMG_0266.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Horizontal Mortising Maching&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vertical face closest to you holds the sliding fence with the router.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Here is the sliding fence that carries the router:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/108679476/IMG_0267.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sliding fence&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is based on a youTube video at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=knk4vWXI5ZQ0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=knk4vWXI5ZQ0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notes:&#xA;1) The video uses sliding dove tails.  I couldn't get them to slide smoothly so I used drawer slides.  Because drawer slides are very loose, I added four machine screws in each table and adjusted them to ride on steel bars as shown above (just visible on the far left under the handle).  This holds everything level and tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) The router is a cheap Chinese router from a well known tool chain store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) I added a foot switch from the same source.  It's very convenient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) My first version flexed too much.  I built this version from 3/4&quot; MDF and added a third bolt which runs in the same slot as the primary height adjustment bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5) How to not lose all 5 fingers on one hand at once:  DON'T FORGET TO DISCONNECT THE FOOT SWITCH before adjusting the height of the bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;&lt;em&gt;Shop Improvement&lt;/em&gt;s&quot; from Taunton Press page 163 shows a simpler but less capable alternative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="309" LastActivityDate="2015-04-04T02:10:15.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="768" CreationDate="2015-04-04T02:20:26.030" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shop vacs pull a smaller volume of air (cubic feet/minute) than dust collectors, but with a higher pressure differential. That might not mean much to you, but what it amounts to is this: shop vacs are better at sucking dust from a close source (hooked into the exhaust of your handheld sander) and dust collectors are better at collecting from a diffuse source (under your tablesaw, near a radial arm saw).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dust collectors also have a larger volume for holding sawdust/chips than a vacuum, so if you're producing a lot of dust, you probably want a dust collector, but at that point you're probably in a shop big enough to have both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're using a shop vac, you may want to invest in filter bags to help protect both the vacuum and your lungs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And just so we're clear: dust collection is not an excuse not to wear a mask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="180" LastEditDate="2015-04-05T00:53:37.007" LastActivityDate="2015-04-05T00:53:37.007" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="229" CreationDate="2015-04-04T02:21:53.810" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;An alternative is to make T-braces (my name).  Screw two inch boards into a T shape.  If the board edges are straight and the screws long enough, the brace will stay straight under very great pressure.  Its the same principle as a torsion box.  Then clamp 2 of them face to face with the table between them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="309" LastActivityDate="2015-04-04T02:21:53.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="768" CreationDate="2015-04-04T02:22:09.650" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dust collectors have higher air flow but lower static pressure than a shop vac.  In other words, dust collectors are better at sucking in all the dust chips and fine dust.  They will have a harder time with heavier objects (rocks, metal, etc...). With that being said, you shouldn't collect those heavier objects with your dust collector; you could damage the propeller and it could be a fire hazard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a shop vac, you can pretty much collect what ever you want, but it won't be as good at collecting the fine dust produced by your tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for filtering, it all depends on the filters you buy. The best filters have the lower micron size.  A canister is also better than a bag, it has more surface area so it won't clutter as fast as a bag and this will keep your suction power for a longer time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, I think it depends on your intention and on your tools.  If you want to use it to clean your garage of small rocks as well as wood dust, shop vac it is.  If you only plan on collecting wood dust, dust collector it is.  If your tools have 4&quot; ports and are well build for dust collection, a dust collector is a step up from a shop vac.  If your tools have 2½&quot; ports, I would stay with a shop vac.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastActivityDate="2015-04-04T02:22:09.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="768" CreationDate="2015-04-04T06:03:12.273" Score="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Short answer:&lt;/strong&gt; A shop-vac is better than nothing, but barely adequate for dust collection on almost any stationary power tool. On the other hand, a dust collector would be inappropriate and wouldn't work very well for most handheld tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Long answer:&lt;/strong&gt; read on...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The others mentioned that a Shop-Vac produces low-volume air flow with high static pressure, and a dust collector produces high-volume air flow with low static pressure. But what does any of this really mean in practical terms?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;CFM vs. Static Pressure, defined&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air volume is measured in cubic feet per minute (CFM) or liter per second (l/s)--the volume of air that the device can move from its intake to its exhaust in a given amount of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Static pressure is measured in inches of water (often referred to as inches water column, or inches WC), as in, how many inches the suction device can lift water up a pipe, or in millibar (mbar).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In simple terms, static pressure determines how much resistance (“static pressure loss”) your dust collector can overcome in order to move a given volume of air through the hoses and pipes. When it comes to designing a dust collection system, the raw CFM figure is initially more important than the raw static pressure figure, though static pressure does come into play once you start designing your ductwork (more on this later).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Is that enough CFM and static pressure?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;WOOD Magazine has a great &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodmagazine.com/figure-dust-collection-needs-by-the-numbers&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; on calculating CFM and static pressure requirements for dust collection. Although the worksheets in the article may look intimidating at first glance, they aren't too difficult to fill out. The article includes some typical CFM requirements for various tools, some of which I've included or summarized below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Table saw, radial arm saw, miter saw, bandsaw: 350 CFM, 165 l/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Belt, disc, or drum sander: 350-550 CFM, 165-260 l/s (depending on size)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Table-mounted router: 195 CFM, 92 l/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thickness planer, up to 13&quot;: 400 CFM, 190 l/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thickness planer, 14&quot;-20&quot;: 785 CFM, 370 l/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now let's look at some contenders for an entry-level dust collection system. As of this writing, a ”6.5 peak horsepower” &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.shopvac.com/specifications/quiet_series.asp&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shop-Vac®&lt;/a&gt; vacuum rated at 9.3A@120V produces 185 CFM (87 l/s) of airflow and 64 inches (160 mbar) of pressure. That's not even adequate for the least-demanding machine in the list, falling 10 CFM (5 l/s) short for a router table. In practical terms, this means the vacuum won't be able to produce the recommended 4000 FPM (feet per minute)/2 m/s (meters per second) linear air velocity necessary to capture most of the dust particles produced by the tool. (Note that the 4000 FPM/2 m/s figure somewhat oversimplifies things but it is a good, convenient figure for making realistic estimates.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By comparison, a 1hp &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.grizzly.com/products/1-HP-Dust-Collector/G8027&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Grizzly dust collector&lt;/a&gt; rated at 8A@110V produces 500 CFM/235 l/s and 2.76&quot;/7 mbar of static pressure. As you can see from the CFM figures above, under ideal conditions this dust collector should be able to capture most of the dust from most tools except larger sanders and 14&quot; or larger planers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, I said that was under ideal conditions. This is where static pressure comes into play. Every inch of pipe or hose, every turn, and every change in diameter produces resistance which your dust collector (or vacuum) must overcome. You can use one of the various static pressure calculators such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/staticcalc.xls&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bill Pentz's static pressure Excel spreadsheet&lt;/a&gt; to calculate the static pressure drop produced by your ductwork and hoses. For the Grizzly 1hp dust collector we looked at earlier, the total static pressure drop can be no more than 2.76&quot;/7 mbar. If you plug only 500 CFM/235 l/s and 7 feet (2 m) of 4&quot; (10 cm) flex hose into the calculator, you'll see the static pressure drop is almost 3&quot;/7.5 mbar, so we already need to look at a more powerful dust collector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although this is the simplest way to size a dust collector, you don't suddenly go from 500 CFM to 0 CFM. The excessive static pressure loss simply reduces the airflow through the system. Some manufacturers or magazines provide the CFM curves at various static pressures, which is helpful in determining whether you can sacrifice a few CFM for a longer run of pipe or hose while maintaining the recommended 4000 FPM air velocity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Other considerations&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the fact that a Shop-Vac just isn't suitable for stationary power tools, one of the dust collector's greatest advantages over a Shop-Vac is that it has a larger hose and is less likely to clog from chips and shavings. Whereas a Shop-Vac typically has a maximum hose size of around 2-1/2 inches/6 cm, a dust collector hose (or pipe) is typically 4 inches/10 cm or larger and is less likely to clog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting back to your questions, you asked whether a dust collector can (1) pick up or (2) filter things that a shop-vac can't. We've already answered the first question (yes, a dust collector can “pick up” more). HEPA-rated filters can remove 99.97% of particles down to 0.3 microns. You can buy these types of filters for both Shop-Vacs and dust collectors, so technically the answer to the second question is &lt;em&gt;yes&lt;/em&gt; but it just depends on what type of filter you buy (and, in some cases, how determined you are to adapt such a filter to your machine if your manufacturer doesn't offer one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, even the best dust collector will not capture all the dust, and even if you pony up the cash for a HEPA filter your dust collector will disperse some amount of fine dust back into the air. That is why you should try to exhaust your dust collector outside if it is practical (while also venting outside air back into the shop), and you should still wear a well-fitted respirator with replaceable P100 (HEPA-equivalent) filter, regardless of any other precautions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="3691" LastEditDate="2017-06-11T11:55:31.490" LastActivityDate="2017-06-11T11:55:31.490" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="774" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="776" CreationDate="2015-04-04T07:20:35.287" Score="7" ViewCount="2207" Body="&lt;p&gt;To change speeds on many drill presses and lathes, the user needs to turn off the machine, and manually move the belts between a variety of pulleys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a machine with variable speed control, the user can simply adjust a lever to change the speed. On at least certain models, the speed can only be changed while the machine is running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does this mechanism work? Why does it require the machine to be running?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="281" LastActivityDate="2015-04-04T07:59:03.220" Title="How does a variable speed control mechanism work?" Tags="|power-tools|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="774" CreationDate="2015-04-04T07:43:54.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Power tools with infinitely variable speed work by changing the power input to the motor; originally this was done using a rheostat, these days the control will often be electronic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why does it require the machine to be running?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not every power tool does require the machine to be running. Some have dial-set power controls, which can be adjusted to the required speed before the machine is turned on, or during operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most modern power drills, both corded and uncorded, have speed control built into the trigger so for those the speed is directly tied to trigger pressure and therefore power must be flowing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-04-04T07:43:54.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="774" CreationDate="2015-04-04T07:45:37.003" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The machines which need to be running in order to adjust the variable speed often use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Continuously_variable_transmission#Variable-diameter_pulley_.28VDP.29_or_Reeves_drive&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Reeves drive&lt;/a&gt;, which consists of two variable-diameter pulleys linked via a V-belt. The two sheaves of each pulley are adjusted closer or further from each other to increase or decrease the diameter of the pulley, respectively. In order to preserve the proper belt tension, one pulley's diameter must increase while the other pulley's diameter decreases, and the machine must be running so the belt can track these adjustments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wzsaf.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Animation illustrating the concept behind a Reeves drive&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:GearBoxRotRotVar.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;image source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other types of machines with variable speed control use electronic speed controls to directly adjust the speed of the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-04-04T07:59:03.220" LastActivityDate="2015-04-04T07:59:03.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="756" CreationDate="2015-04-04T08:11:41.933" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the link in LeeG's reply covers all the necessary steps but just to have it spelled out here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good &lt;strong&gt;surface prep&lt;/strong&gt; is very important, imperfections 'telegraph' through paint very easily so the more perfect you can get the surface initially the better. The flatter the starting surface the less paint you have to use too, so it does have both time and cost benefits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Build up of colour&lt;/strong&gt; in multiple layers. Just as with most painting and varnishing multiple thin coats are better than one thicker coat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Flattening off&lt;/strong&gt; using a sanding block to maintain a good flat surface. Special care must be taken at edges and corners as it is very easy to sand through to the primer coat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Final smoothing&lt;/strong&gt; by wet-sanding to a very high grit, while still striving to keep the surface flat; it is possible to introduce waves and other dips into the finish even after switching to very fine grits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Polishing&lt;/strong&gt;. This can be achieved in any number of ways, from the old traditional methods used in furniture finishing such as using powdered rottenstone lubricated with a light oil or water, to modern cream polishing compounds and powered rotary polishers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-04-04T08:11:41.933" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="779" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-05T05:22:48.647" Score="7" ViewCount="1217" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to figure out the best way to make clean dovetails joints using a router (maybe?).  I've tried by hand, results were not so good.  I got excited a while back and bought one of those porter cable router jigs.  It kind of worked but chipped out great chunks of the dove tail when I tried to use it.  That ended up a mess for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I was tempted by the incra router table and fence system which seems accurate at least.  Someone showed me something called the woodrat which looked interesting at first but started to look a little hokey as the demo video went on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was all excited to get an incra table but then I thought, is this just going to chip everywhere like the jig?  So I'm not sure the best route to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a moderately experienced hobbyist, and I don't have a router table yet.  About the most complicated thing I've built is a crib with mortise and tenon joints.  I want to be able to make dovetails to make drawers and boxes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T00:58:42.450" Title="Best setup to make dovetails" Tags="|router|dovetail|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="780" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-05T20:07:51.327" Score="6" ViewCount="1975" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would really like to make my own vises, like moxon, tail vise, etc.  I'd love to be able to afford the benchcrafted kits but they are price-prohibitive.  I've seen people make them out of press vises, but I'm looking for a much larger handle than comes with standard press vises, as I figure that the larger the rotational diameter, the more torque one might apply to the vise screw.  However, I am not getting a lot of hits when I search for &quot;bench screw wheel&quot; or &quot;bench screw handle.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a specific name for the type of handle I am referring to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rQQLI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture of Benchcrafted tail vises without price&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-04-06T16:13:33.233" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T16:13:33.233" Title="What are the handles/wheels called when making a homemade vise (like a moxon?)" Tags="|tools|terminology|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="780" CreationDate="2015-04-05T20:47:41.543" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently, they're called &quot;hand wheels&quot;; &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/projects/79379&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; lumberjocks post talks about how this person made a vise and called them hand wheels.  Searching for hand wheels brings up results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2015-04-05T20:47:41.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="782" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="791" CreationDate="2015-04-05T22:15:12.240" Score="13" ViewCount="1427" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a normal hardwood desk/table top, if you band the edges with a strip of wood, it will not cope well with wood movement. Particle board doesn't suffer from this problem unless you get it wet, at which point you have bigger issues. What about plywood, can you apply edge banding without worrying about it separating from panel? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="180" LastEditDate="2016-08-19T17:47:40.840" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T18:02:14.530" Title="Is wood movement an issue with edge banded plywood?" Tags="|plywood|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="694" CreationDate="2015-04-06T00:44:19.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can use both cedar and oak from your property, especially for small boats like canoes and kayaks. You're definitely thinking right in planning to use oak for the keel and frame and cedar for the planked skin. This sort of construction, traditional plank on frame, is quite common for small boats up to about 20 feet in length, and is most likely the construction used for the boat in your picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cedar strip plus fiberglass construction mentioned in another answer is an option, but traditional construction was used for hundreds of years before fiberglass arrived.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do a little research on the courses offered by the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thewoodenboatschool.com/boatbuilding.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wooden Boat School&lt;/a&gt; in Brooklin Maine. (I have no affiliation with them, but have enjoyed their courses.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="320" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T00:44:19.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="779" CreationDate="2015-04-06T00:58:42.450" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried several different router-dovetail jigs with varying levels of success.  I have had the most success with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kellerdovetail.com/models.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Keller Dovetail&lt;/a&gt; system.  I was at a woodworking show a few years ago, and saw it being demonstrated by the inventor.  I was pretty skeptical about it being better than the others I had tried, but he handed me the jig, took about 1 minute to explain how it worked, and then I cut some perfectly fitting dovetails on my first try.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some caveats:  the jig does require some setup, and doing the setup correctly is very important (mostly milling a very square piece of wood to attach it to, and making sure it is aligned perfectly).  Once the initial setup is done, you can cut dovetails or finger joints.  My test project was a small pine box using the finger joint bits with the jig.  The dovetail version came out just as tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CNS6Y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;First Project&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have the PORTER-CABLE 4210 12-Inch Dovetail Jig.  It works well for half blind dovetails but you have to be careful about the boards not slipping.  Some self-adhesive sandpaper along the clamp mechanism really helps with that.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried the Leigh jig and the Omnijig.  Both are very versatile but are considerably more complex to setup and for an infrequent user such as myself, it was more work than it was worth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T00:58:42.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="782" CreationDate="2015-04-06T01:04:57.697" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I edge band plywood for everything except cabinets for the shop.  I have used the heat sensitive, iron on banding as well as shop made, glue on banding.  Both work well.  The iron on banding is not as durable as the shop made stuff, but it is much easier.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For trimming the heat sensitive banding, I use the cutter from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=12922&amp;amp;idcategory=0&quot;&gt;FastCap&lt;/a&gt;.  For trimming the thicker shop made stuff, I use a router in a table with a high fence and a trim bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T01:04:57.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="768" CreationDate="2015-04-06T04:26:34.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A DC uses higher velocity and volume to capture dust/chips vs a shop vac, and typically has a larger storage bin for dust/chips. DC's are not necessarily quieter. DC's are able to handle the higher chip loads of planers and jointers, which will overload a shop vac almost immediately. The higher volume of air is better able to capture dust from larger tools, such as a table saw, due to the velocity of air pulled in through the openings of the tool and past the cutting edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T04:26:34.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="741" CreationDate="2015-04-06T04:40:30.813" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use mineral spirits to wet the grain. More lubricity than water or denatured alcohol, stays wet longer than denatured alcohol, and does not raise the grain&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-06-05T14:51:41.427" LastActivityDate="2020-06-05T14:51:41.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="739" CreationDate="2015-04-06T04:45:23.213" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use golden taklon brushes for WB finishes. The very fine bristles dramatically reduce brush marks. Also, the quality WB finish manufactures also sell an extender/retarder to slow the drying, necessary if brushing something of any size with waterborne. It is better to spray them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T04:45:23.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="385" CreationDate="2015-04-06T04:53:19.133" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When shopping for wood one will quickly realize all the bad pieces of wood that are overflowing the shelves. So be prepared to spend at least 30 minutes finding suitable enough pieces to purchase. Personally, I like the more natural look of wood, so I don't sand it with too high a grit and of course use a stain instead of paint or other finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing though, that I would do is design what you're wanting to build, so you can better determine which type and size of wood you should buy. I wouldn't just go to the store to buy some wood without knowing what thing(s) I'm planning to make. So I'd suggest drawing up your design, right down to the dimensions, and then do some research on the internet for which wood you should use for this and make a decision.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="126" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T04:53:19.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="782" CreationDate="2015-04-06T09:42:17.127" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plywood is more dimensionally stable so yes, edge banding works as well or better on ply than on particleboard / chipboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edge banding is almost synonymous with plywood construction; woodworking guides going back to the 50s and possibly earlier talk about hiding the &quot;unsightly&quot; edges. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other methods that can be used to hide the edge of plywood that are worth considering as an option to conventional edge banding:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fxhzz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Plywood edge treatments&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Source: 1955 Fir Plywood Association handbook)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where you aren't using iron-on edging you need some way to clamp the edge successfully. They make specialised edge-clamping C-clamps for just this purpose, but these two homemade alternatives work just was well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6bVgC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Edge clamping options&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T09:42:17.127" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="792" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="795" CreationDate="2015-04-06T13:19:35.913" Score="4" ViewCount="2898" Body="&lt;p&gt;When perusing woodworking articles online, I often read about dado joints made with dado cuts using dado blades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j99hA.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Outline of a two wooden planks showcasing two types of dado cuts&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;SilentC at the English language Wikipedia &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gnu.org/copyleft/fdl.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GFDL&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CC-BY-SA-3.0&lt;/a&gt;, via Wikimedia Commons&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each time I come across the word &lt;em&gt;dado&lt;/em&gt;, I pronounce it differently and it's starting to bug me. Which is the correct way to pronounce &lt;em&gt;dado&lt;/em&gt;? Is it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dado like dad&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dado like dot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dado like date&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2015-04-06T13:44:43.780" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T16:04:14.787" Title="How do you pronounce dado?" Tags="|terminology|dado|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="792" CreationDate="2015-04-06T13:35:47.330" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always heard it pronounced &quot;Day-dough&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T13:35:47.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="385" CreationDate="2015-04-06T13:37:16.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to remind folks: there are &quot;up cycling&quot; opportunities too. I've gotten some interesting material by scavenging furniture left on the curb, including &quot;prebuilt&quot; large panels from headboards. While disassembling may seem sacreligious after all the work of assembling a piece, it's as valid a reuse as a fix-up would be (though I've been seduced by some of those too, of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even when the material is particle board and not worth taking, the hardware (drawer slides and such) may be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T13:37:16.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="792" CreationDate="2015-04-06T13:55:43.887" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/dado&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;noun da·do \ˈdā-(ˌ)dō&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's pronounced with both a long 'a' as in day and a long 'o' as in oh. Primary emphasis (indicated by ') is on the first syllable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="180" LastEditDate="2015-04-06T16:04:14.787" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T16:04:14.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="796" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="824" CreationDate="2015-04-06T14:01:41.070" Score="5" ViewCount="3818" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the process of building a router table dust collection system, similar to the one shown in the image below. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://s3.amazonaws.com/lumberjocks.com/lxhkyus.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Multi-port dust collection for router table&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On many of the designs I've seen (including the one above), the top port accepts a 2.5 inch hose while the bottom one accepts a 4&quot; hose. I'm wondering if there's anything wrong with using two 4&quot; ports instead of a 2.5/4. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.harborfreight.com/2-hp-industrial-5-micron-dust-collector-97869.html&quot;&gt;HF 2HP DC&lt;/a&gt; unit (lots of acronyms there). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastActivityDate="2017-10-01T01:52:13.370" Title="Two-part router table dust collection, both four inch?" Tags="|dust-collection|router-table|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="796" CreationDate="2015-04-06T14:13:56.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are using a dust collector and not a shop vac the 4&quot; in both should work great.  I've noticed that the tools I have the neck down to 2.5&quot; do not collect as well.  The dust collector works on volume and a 4&quot; hose allows a lot more volume.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shop vac work the other way (static pressure?) and the smaller openings 'focus' the air movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect the 2.5&quot; on top either has to do with economies, (cheaper materials) or usability (flexes easier and is easier to keep the hose out of the way).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or as TX Turner pointed out, the fence has a 2 or 2.5&quot; connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is from my experience and limited knowledge of airflow.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-06T14:19:54.777" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T14:19:54.777" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="798" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-06T14:27:33.600" Score="6" ViewCount="2933" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking at different plans for making a workbench that, one day, I will have the space and materials to make. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shavingsandawl.com/2014/04/18/workbench-build-part-9-adding-the-central-insert/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;One sets of plans&lt;/a&gt; I ran into had a board cut and recessed with a handle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen lots of bench plans but can't find more than this one using an insert (perhaps insert is a colloquialism?). Sure it makes a wicked paddle but what would the use of this space be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cjy6M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Central Insert&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shavingsandawl.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.shavingsandawl.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2019-01-10T02:32:29.003" LastActivityDate="2019-01-10T02:32:29.003" Title="What is the functional purpose(s) of a central insert in a workbench?" Tags="|workbench|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="798" CreationDate="2015-04-06T14:30:08.120" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would find such a feature useful as a stop, in conjunction with the vise. Rather than having to put in a bench dog at the end of a board to plane, you could just raise up the insert a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T14:30:08.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="800" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="801" CreationDate="2015-04-06T14:49:50.203" Score="14" ViewCount="5606" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding of modern wood glue is that, if the proper glue is used and wood surfaces are properly prepared, it will form a bond stronger than the wood itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this true? If not what are the exceptions to that statement?  If so does that mean that complicated and/or elaborate mechanical joints &amp;mdash; e.g., dovetail joints &amp;mdash; are now more decorative than practical?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2017-01-21T00:15:30.693" LastActivityDate="2022-01-05T15:49:23.173" Title="Is glue the best permanent join?" Tags="|joinery|glue|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="800" CreationDate="2015-04-06T14:54:15.677" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;Indeed, when done properly, the glue is stronger than the wood itself when both of the glued faces are edge-grain or face-grain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few circumstances come to mind when glue alone is not stronger than the wood:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;End Grain&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When glue is applied to end-grain, the grain acts as little straws and draws a lot of the glue up the wood, away from the joint (similar to how the grain draws water up the tree when the tree is alive). In these cases, the majority of the glue is pulled away from the joint and (without more elaborate joinery techniques) a strong joint cannot be achieved, no matter how rough you sand or how tight your clamps are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Joining with an end-grain face is unavoidable for 90-degree joints, such as when making boxes or drawers. This is why you'll often see dovetail or finger joints used in these cases. These joints not only provide physical limitations to how the wood can move, but also allow the glue to be applied to a greater surface area &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; along edge-grain faces, creating a  much stronger joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Joining end-grain faces is also unavoidable for 180-degree joints, and a good round-up of techniques to strengthen this joint can be found at the question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/q/707/10&quot;&gt;How can I join two boards at the ends?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Wood Movement&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of factors that determine how a piece of wood reacts to changes in humidity or contact with water. These include the type of wood, its density and shape, the direction of the grain, and its age. Therefore, the two pieces of wood that make up the joint will often react differently to the changing environment, putting unique stresses and tension on the joint. Furthermore, the direction of the tension is often different than what is  expected under typical use of the joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When significant changes in moisture are anticipated, glued joints can fail as the different pieces of wood react differently to the change in moisture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2017-01-20T13:56:09.687" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="800" CreationDate="2015-04-06T14:57:11.273" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the tests performed by &lt;a href=&quot;http://woodgears.ca/joint_strength/glue.html&quot;&gt;Matthias Wandel&lt;/a&gt;. He found that most glues performed equally as well. And when joints failed it was with wood coming out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the strongest part of wood is along the grain and grain is rarely straight. So the joint area would still be weaker than if it was a solid piece of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T14:57:11.273" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="800" CreationDate="2015-04-06T14:58:49.547" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always been told that when you glue two boards together that the join will be stronger than the surrounding wood.  This is primarily for joining boards to make a wider (or thicker) board. Long edge to long edge, and if you properly join them it seems to be true. When bending a board to break I've never seen it break along the seam.  I have seen the glue fail over time and the board will split along the seam.  Though this is mostly from years of seasonal movement and likely the two boards didn't move the same together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tend to use my biscuit joiner to help reinforce these joints as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now comparing that to dovetail joints is a very different subject.  Dovetail joints help strengthen an angle.  Glue doesn't do nearly as well with angles or pieces that will get a lot of stress from different angles.  A corner is end-grain being attached to face grain, which already is a weaker glue joint.  On top of that it will suffer more opposing stresses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A dovetail adds physical strength from the wood itself, also give more surface area to glue.  Other forms of joinery do the same thing, they are needed to hand different cross stresses and provide more strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-06T18:22:44.387" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T18:22:44.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="798" CreationDate="2015-04-06T16:05:03.080" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It functions as a plane stop, for planing cross grain with hand planes.  If you don't plan on using hand planes extensively, it isn't necessary.  If you do decide to use hand planes, you can get the same effect from bench dogs, or even just clamping a board to the bench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My preference is still more toward a Roubo style bench.  It is more versatile and actually easy to build.  I built a mini version just using construction grade lumber from my local Home Depot.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T16:05:03.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="805" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-06T18:04:07.057" Score="8" ViewCount="20326" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a simple question really that would be hard to embellish. While I'm using my belt sander the belt drifts. Sometimes almost half way off the assembly. This does not happen constantly but very often. Yes, there is a mechanism that prevent the belt from going to far the other direction (back towards the sander) but nothing that stops it from leaving (nor could it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it pressure, technique, belt quality, belt sander quality. I've been trying variations of pressure and handling but it still slides off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I keep my belt on properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T18:49:26.920" Title="How can I stop my belt from drifting off my sander?" Tags="|safety|sanding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="805" CreationDate="2015-04-06T18:17:11.063" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a tracking adjustment on the side to help keep the belt aligned.  I've noticed that different uses require adjustment.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The grit of the belt can make a difference and when I'm trying too 'hard' in one place. It will want to run off the sander.  If I can get it running straight without pressure (or just a little toward the inside) but it won't stay when sanding, likely it means I'm trying to use too much pressure, I need to back off and let the sander do it's job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-06T18:49:26.920" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T18:49:26.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="807" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="810" CreationDate="2015-04-06T18:57:56.737" Score="14" ViewCount="2246" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine asked what wood to use for his desktop and said, &quot;I'd be fine with pine, since I assume it's cheaper.&quot; I told him that I wouldn't use pine because it's so soft and would dent easily, but when he asked which he should use, I couldn't give an explicit answer beyond some of the common woods used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't believe the desk will take frequent heavy impacts or the like, but It would be unfortunate to get a dent just for setting a cup down too hard or the like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roughly where on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Janka_hardness_test&quot;&gt;Janka Hardness scale&lt;/a&gt; would be too soft to use for a desk or table top? Are there any woods you would avoid for other reasons?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-06-19T01:28:23.113" LastActivityDate="2017-10-23T17:51:07.130" Title="What minimum level of hardness (on the Janka scale) is appropriate for a desk top?" Tags="|wood-selection|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="807" CreationDate="2015-04-06T19:12:18.437" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably ~1500 and up. For typical domestic woods, oak, birch, hard maple, ash, pecan, hickory. Cherry comes in ~900 and Walnut ~1200.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T19:12:18.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6" CreationDate="2015-04-06T19:27:47.517" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Water swells the wood fibers and they will plastically (permanently) deform. This leaves a rougher surface than what was prepared by sanding or scraping. Sanding after staining typically causes the color to be more uneven, and needing another coat of stain to even out more. Pre raising the grain with plain water and lightly sanding with ~320 grit to remove the raised grain (after drying) will allow a WB stain to be applied and have a smooth surface after drying to top coat. If no stain or dye is used, then there is really no advantage to pre grain raising for a WB topcoat. The 1st topcoat can be lightly sanded instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is best to flood the surface until no more water is absorbed (a spray bottle and foam brush work well), and then wipe off and allow to dry. This ensures that when the WB stain/dye is applied the level of absorption by the wood fibers does not exceed the previous wetting, ensuring no further grain raising occurs. I will typically raise the grain on softwoods twice, flooding the surface the 1st time, sanding, then wetting more lightly the 2nd time. Softwoods soak up enough water to raise large areas of grain, and the swelled fibers in those areas are removed by sanding flat. The 2nd application addresses these areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastEditorUserId="265" LastEditDate="2015-04-06T19:35:44.720" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T19:35:44.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="807" CreationDate="2015-04-06T20:04:52.897" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was going to agree with OSU55 but then I looked and saw Douglas Fir at 660 and people use it as 'hardwood' flooring, granted you put a nice hard finish on it but you don't have to go all the way to epoxy.  If it can be a floor, it should be able to be a desk top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T20:04:52.897" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="602" CreationDate="2015-04-06T20:42:48.323" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dyes allow you to impart any color to the wood desired and look completely natural. It's a bit like literally looking through rose colored glasses, except any about color is achievable. The right color combination could bring back the weathered color to the pallet wood. I use Transtint alcohol/water soluble dyes, and there are other brands as well as oil based dyes.  Also, for those WB finishes, tinting the finish will provide close to the same result as oil based finishes, like solvent poly. Pour a little solvent poly in a cup and let it cure. Look at that dark amber color. Pour a little WB finish in a cup and let it cure. Nice and clear. Add some tint to the WB finish so it looks like the solvent poly after curing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T20:42:48.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="812" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="827" CreationDate="2015-04-06T21:01:22.533" Score="10" ViewCount="27022" Body="&lt;p&gt;A follow up to &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/807/what-minimum-level-of-hardness-on-the-janka-scale-is-appropriate-for-a-desk-to&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, which established that the hardness of the wood is less important than how you protect the surface. Suppose I use a very easily dented wood, let's say Chestnut(Hardness 500), what options do I have to protect the surface from physical damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2019-12-30T22:00:24.460" Title="How can I protect a desk top made from softer wood?" Tags="|finishing|physical-protection|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="189" CreationDate="2015-04-06T21:02:39.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually the sheen is fine - it is consistent in the reflected light. The problem is surface flatness, caused by the pores of the wood, some dust contamination, and a little bit of orange peel. Hand planing the surface would not have helped. Using a sanding sealer would have made it easier - sanding sealer is easier to sand, but It does make the overall finish a bit weaker. This surface needs to be &quot;filled&quot;, meaning all those peaks need to be knocked off and all the valleys filled in. At this point, since you have several coats of poly already down, the only choice is to sand it down, add a coat of poly, sand it down, etc. until it is filled, or good enough for you. A hand scraper can be used instead of sandpaper. What you want to achieve is localized flatness. Using a flexible backer pad, like foam rubber, is best. A stiff backer will flatten a larger area, not what you want at this point. ~320 grit paper, wet or dry. The self leveling of the poly will help, as it will tend to flow into the valleys. A couple of sanding/recoat cycles can improve that finish significantly. Thin the poly ~10% to help it flow better. You may want to very lightly sand the final coat with ~600 for more obvious imperfections, then rub with 0000 steel wool to get even sheen across the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T21:02:39.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="814" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="816" CreationDate="2015-04-06T20:54:57.903" Score="11" ViewCount="11392" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to make a wooden cone that is slightly smaller than the smallest traffic cone available commercially.  My guess is that it will definitely require a table router.  Is that correct and are there any other tools that would be necessary in the process.  I would use a roughly 12&quot; piece of 6x6 to carve it out of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="328" OwnerDisplayName="amphibient" LastEditorUserId="328" LastEditDate="2015-04-06T21:18:20.067" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T19:07:27.223" Title="How can I fabricate a wooden cone?" Tags="|lathe|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="814" CreationDate="2015-04-06T21:04:17.367" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well the obvious choice (see my username) would be a lathe. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar to what is done to make fluted columns, you could mount stock between revolving centers and build a trammel to hold a router that makes cuts angled to the stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e.g. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lzZpl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;lathe trammel&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Except imagine one end of the platform higher than the other to make a cone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technically, you wouldn't even need a true lathe, just a couple of sharpened bolts in a frame to create points about which the stock can rotate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;image via: &lt;a href=&quot;http://customfurnitureandfab.com/how-to-make-fluted-or-beaded-columns&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://customfurnitureandfab.com/how-to-make-fluted-or-beaded-columns&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-06-09T19:07:27.223" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T19:07:27.223" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="814" CreationDate="2015-04-06T21:15:10.617" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't have access to a lathe, you can cut a series of wedges with a band saw and/or a table saw. connect them all together in an &quot;almost cone&quot; and sand down the edges until it's fairly conical. The narrower your wedges, the more conical you'll get. The angle for each wedge is easily calculated. Where N is your number of wedges, 360/N gives you the inner angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From here you have a near-conical blank. You can either sand down the edges or use a router jig like in  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TUA3lryix64&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;: a spindle in a box with a router sliding on top. To get a cone, you could angle the spindle. Perhaps if you wanted to get fancy, you could make the spindle adjustable to make different angled cones/tapers.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TX Turner's comment has another good reference for a &lt;a href=&quot;http://customfurnitureandfab.com/how-to-make-fluted-or-beaded-columns&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;jig meant to go on a lathe&lt;/a&gt; which could be modified to do tapers, but I don't think it would be too difficult to fabricate something similar as a standalone contraption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In short:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1: Cut a bunch of wedges from rectangular blocks. If you glued them together at this stage, it would make a near-cylindrical drum.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2: make a diagonal cut into each wedge to make the triangular size of the cone   you need.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3: Glue them together into a conical blank.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;4: Sand the corners down or use a router jig. &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W1qVb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I mentioned in a comment, I would not recommend trying to make a DIY lathe. To me that seems like an attempt for the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.darwinawards.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Darwin Awards.&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="180" LastEditDate="2015-04-07T01:47:19.360" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T01:47:19.360" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="132" CreationDate="2015-04-06T21:16:56.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the common furniture finishes are safe AFTER CURING. Lacquer, polyurethane, shellac - dangerous if ingested  in liquid form due to the thinners, there is no evidence of danger in a cured finish. Furniture finishing guru Bob Flexnor has addressed this, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodcentral.com/articles/finishing/articles_497a.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;see here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T21:16:56.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2015-04-06T21:25:14.997" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most typical wood finishes are safe ONCE CURED. Here is a somewhat relevant article by Bob Flexner &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodcentral.com/articles/finishing/articles_497a.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.woodcentral.com/articles/finishing/articles_497a.shtml&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once cured a drying type finish, varnish or paint, will not leach into the ground. Since this will be exposed to direct sunlight use an outdoor product, either paint or opaque stain. The only way to protect wood outdoors from UV exposure is to cover it with a pigment. The more clear &quot;UV protector&quot; finishes will have to be recoated every 2-3 years. Pigmented finishes will last 2-3 times as long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastEditorUserId="3" LastEditDate="2015-04-07T12:46:50.493" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T12:46:50.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="237" CreationDate="2015-04-06T21:33:06.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the surface would need to be cleaned up manually (not on a lathe), try CA glue and clamp it together. Much less mess than epoxy to clean up. The CA glue will be safe after fully curing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T21:33:06.570" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="812" CreationDate="2015-04-06T21:43:32.820" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most finishes, even the &quot;penetrating oil&quot; ones, don't penetrate very deep (maybe 0.020&quot;, 0.5 mm). The soft fibers below the cured finish fail, leaving a dent. Having a thicker, hard surface will prevent denting. This could be achieved with a thick &quot;bar top&quot; type finish, or a matte or piece of glass over the center portion of the desk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastEditorUserId="4774" LastEditDate="2019-12-30T22:00:24.460" LastActivityDate="2019-12-30T22:00:24.460" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="821" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="829" CreationDate="2015-04-07T01:07:29.357" Score="9" ViewCount="405" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some rough sawn maple that I'll be storing for a while, I've read that as long as there's no bark on it, it's safe from new infestations of powder post beetles; is this true?  Is it better to treat with borate and will this affect the finish of the wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="186" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T12:38:46.347" Title="Protecting wood from powder post beetles" Tags="|lumber|insects|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="237" CreationDate="2015-04-07T02:19:41.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not enough rep to add a comment but most glues are food safe when dry. The drying agents may have toxins in them but they evaporate and the dried glue is okay. Obviously you'll want a glue that's waterproof when dry such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.titebond.com/titebond_wood_glues/Ultimate_Wood_Glue.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Titebond III&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Wood Whisperer has a good &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/food-safe-glues/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;post&lt;/a&gt; on this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="105" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T02:19:41.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="694" CreationDate="2015-04-07T03:18:05.010" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for a simple project you might consider a skin on frame canoe or kayak. Cedar is a good choice for skin boats and actually works better when it's 'green'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jgIZX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Skin on frame boat in Mission Bay&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.skin-boats.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;skin-boats.com&lt;/a&gt; to get some ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="332" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T03:18:05.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="796" CreationDate="2015-04-07T04:46:33.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;bowlturner already mentioned that reducing from 4&quot; to 2.5&quot; does not work very well with a dust collector and suggested some possible reasons why a 2.5&quot; fence hookup is so common for router table dust collection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll try to specifically answer your question about two 4&quot; ports:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if there's anything wrong with using two 4&quot; ports&#xA;  instead of a 2.5/4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The typical rule of thumb suggests that you want to maintain about 4000 FPM air velocity through your dust collection system. If you drop too far below the recommended air velocity, dust can pile up in the lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you split a 4&quot; hose into two 4&quot; hoses, you've effectively cut the air velocity in half for each branch. (In this particular example, the 90 degree tee and the question mark-shaped flex hose will add some extra resistance. The air will follow the path of least resistance, so the straight branch into the cabinet will still pull more air than the branch that goes to the fence--but for the sake of simplicity, we'll ignore that for now.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to maintain 4000 FPM after splitting into two 4&quot; hoses, you either want to start out with the dust collector pulling the air twice as fast through a single line of the same diameter, or you want to start out with the dust collector pulling air at the same velocity through a line whose cross-sectional area is twice as large before splitting into the two 4&quot; lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now let's plug your specific dust collector into the equation. WOOD Magazine &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.portercable.com/uploads/PCD/Documents/News/182DustCollectors.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tested&lt;/a&gt; the Central Machinery 2hp dust collector from Harbor Freight and found that it only pulls 536 CFM @ 4.25&quot; WC static pressure (a far cry from its advertised 1550 CFM). Coincidentally, 536 CFM is almost exactly the amount of airflow you need in order to draw the air through a 5&quot; line at 4000 FPM. But if you're just using 4&quot; hose all the way, 536 CFM equates to 6142 FPM through a 4&quot; hose according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/staticcalc.xls&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bill Pentz's static pressure spreadsheet&lt;/a&gt;. So at first glance, it appears this dust collector falls short by quite a bit. But that's not the whole story.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good news is that 4000 FPM is only necessary to lift dust vertically. If we're talking horizontal and downhill runs, 3000 FPM is adequate. So if you can smooth out the bends in the line (specifically, replace the tee with a wye and straighten out the question mark-shaped loop), you should have no trouble pulling air through each branch at about 3000 FPM. Mathematically speaking, your dust collector should be able to handle a slightly improved configuration just fine, and realistically speaking, the pictured configuration is suboptimal but possibly &quot;good enough.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T04:46:33.233" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="812" CreationDate="2015-04-07T07:55:50.017" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;what options do I have to protect the surface from physical damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Physical damage&quot; is really too broad a category to answer simply. It needs to be broken down a little in order better define what protection certain finishes can provide. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With softer woods conventional finishes &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; really protect from significant impacts, such as would leave a dent, but &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; provide resistance to bruising (from lighter impacts, usually less focused by a sharp corner or edge) as well as the marking that typically arises from general use, mainly scratches and scuffs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The harder ones — shellac, varnish and lacquer — will greatly improve even a soft wood's resistance to light markings. But any significant impact is still transmitted to the soft wood underneath the hard surface layer, leading to a dent. All such harder finishes are somewhat brittle and they can crack with such an impact, and begin to flake off. Polyurethane varnishes are popular partly because they have some inherent flexibility (toughness, as distinct from hardness) allowing them to absorb impacts better without cracking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bartop type of finish as already mentioned in the answer by OSU55 are a step above this. These are pour-on finishes usually, resulting in a very thick coating being applied by conventional finishing standards even at their minimum thickness. That and the inherent strength of the material itself lead to an extremely tough and durable surface. However, the thickness and the high-gloss surface is not for every taste — critics say it makes the wood look &quot;plasticy&quot; or like it's encased in glass. And because of the application technique where you pour it on it leaves either a characteristic rounded edge where it has been allowed to drip over the edge, or a visible clear edge, neither of which suit many types of furniture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T07:55:50.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="812" CreationDate="2015-04-07T12:45:19.630" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have several options. A good reference is &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000H6EJ4U&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bob Flexner's books&lt;/a&gt; where he compares all in terms of hardness (which is what you're looking for), reversibility, transparency, dent proofness, water resistance, etc. I actually don't own the book (I borrowed it from my local library several times), but from memory, here's the order of protectability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oil-based finishes (e.g., tung oil, boiled linseed oil). Very low in hardness, moderate in water resistance, easy in reversibility.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lacquer. Moderate dent resistence, lowish in water resistance, easy reversibility. Reverses with lacquer thinner. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shellac. Same as above. Reverses easily with denatured alcohol.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water-based polyurethane. Better dent resistance than lacquer or shellac but harder to reverse. (It requires a chemical stripper, but it's doable). Good water resistance. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oil-based polyurethane.  Less prone to wear than water-based poly and more water resistant. Like water-based, it too requires a chemical stripper to reverse it. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two part epoxy. This is what restaurants use on their tables. Really good wear and resistance but practically impossible to reverse (should you need to repair the wood beneath the finish). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bob also gives a series of tests you can do to determine which sort of finish works for your particular project. To determine its scratch resistance, for example, you can buy art pencils (e.g., HB, 2B, 3B) and attempt to make tiny scratches in the finish. Also, to determine water resistance, (if I remember correctly), he suggests placing a drop of water on a finish then covering it with a mug for 24 hours. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T12:45:19.630" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="821" CreationDate="2015-04-07T12:53:26.503" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some pests like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Emerald_ash_borer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Emerald Ash Borer&lt;/a&gt; need a living tree to infest and live, they eat the 'pulpy' layer under the bark, and in large quantities will girdle a tree and kill it. So an Ash without bark is perfectly safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Powderpost_beetle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Powder post beetle&lt;/a&gt; on the other hand eats the 'dead' wood on the inside of the tree.  This means that the bark has nothing to do with it.  if you have an infestation you might need to kiln dry the wood to kill off any larva living inside the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T12:53:26.503" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="821" CreationDate="2015-04-07T13:05:07.630" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not found any reference for the bark comment but depending where it is stored and even if you haven't had problems in the past you &lt;strong&gt;cannot assume&lt;/strong&gt; you are safe from infestation. I personally have not had any issues with Powerpost beetles but the prevention thereof is fairly generic as far as infestations go. &lt;strong&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt;: there are several dozens of varieties and they have different needs as far as what woods they like and what level of moisture they feel comfortable to lay eggs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that there is not passive infestation in the wood (more on that later) the deterrent for the beetle is that it needs to have nowhere to lay the eggs. Wood that has been sanded and finished is usually enough to keep them away. You however will be storing this wood to allow it to dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Prevention&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However an infestation could already be present and could be several years before you are even aware of it. Advice would be to kiln dry the wood or use a non-toxic borate. This would be important in your case since your wood has not been yet treated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are pesticide fumigation strategies that I will not suggest or condone especially if you plan on making furniture or something that will be in contact with the body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good Reading if you have not already found it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://ento.psu.edu/extension/factsheets/powderpost-beetles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Penn State University on Powerpost Beetles&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www2.ca.uky.edu/entomology/entfacts/ef616.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;University of Kentucky on Powerpost Beetles&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think it particularly matters here but in general it is good practice to mention your region as it might narrow down advice to a species.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T14:16:31.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="735" CreationDate="2015-04-07T13:07:54.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The previous answers are well written and describe the process well.  I can only add my personal experience to this which, of course, may vary from one person to the next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that both the &quot;bash it out with a mortise chisel&quot; and the &quot;drill it out and clean up the edges&quot; methods work about equally well and are both a lot of work.  Not that work is a bad thing; but the process will take some time.  Using a mortise chisel had the benefit for me of ensuring that the walls of my mortise were parallel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the tenon, I found it tricky to get the sides and shoulders perfect using only a chisel and ended up buying a shoulder plane.  In fact, I bought &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=48430&amp;amp;cat=1,41182,68490&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; [from Lee Valley.] This made it much easier to get the tenon sides and shoulders to fit well.  For some reason, these shoulder planes are always expensive; I was unable to find one on Ebay, or any of the online tool dealers that was both in good condition and less than $100 USD.  So I just bought a new one and the one from Lee Valley is very nice to use.  Most importantly, it is easy to adjust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T13:07:54.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="831" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-04-07T13:40:56.343" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-04-07T13:40:56.343" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T13:40:56.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="832" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-04-07T13:40:56.343" Score="0" Body="Use where you need help with finding, defining or explaining terms used in woodworking for tools or techniques." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T20:15:59.527" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T20:15:59.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="833" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="835" CreationDate="2015-04-07T15:17:08.750" Score="21" ViewCount="11256" Body="&lt;p&gt;Straight-cut router bits come with blades with three broad shapes: straight, down-spiral, and up-spiral&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pBcaE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Straight blade router bit&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LT4i4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Down-spiral blade router bit&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/flooA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Up-spiral blade router bit &quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;from left to right, straight blade, down-spiral blade, and up spiral blade, from &lt;a href=&quot;http://amazon.com&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;amazon.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When should you use a spiral blade instead of a straight blade? When should you use an up-spiral instead of a down-spiral?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2015-04-09T16:50:44.000" LastActivityDate="2021-09-27T04:58:48.990" Title="When should I use a spiral router bit?" Tags="|router|router-bit|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="833" CreationDate="2015-04-07T15:38:11.590" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should use spiral blade bits &lt;em&gt;whenever you can&lt;/em&gt;, that is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You do not need a diameter that is too large (spiral router bits cannot have a diameter larger than the shaft, so you're limited to 12mm or so maximum).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No ball bearing needed for guidance, usually spiral cutters don't have these (though, as pointed out by Rob, you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; find them).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You don't mind spending a few coins more.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage of spiral router bits is that you do not &quot;hammer&quot; a blade into the grain and pull it out again all the time, tearing and pulling wood out. Instead, the router bit cuts &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; continually without going &quot;in and out&quot; of the grain, much like a blade that you pull smoothly through the material. You work with very little vibrations and get a very clean cut. Also you can &quot;plunge&quot; nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, the spiral transports the wood shavings away (the &quot;right&quot; or &quot;upcut&quot; spiral, anyway), further increasing precision, and also reducing friction and burn. Using a &quot;upcut&quot; spiral, you get more shavings in front of your vacuum's muzzle, and less in other places.&#xA;Using a &quot;left&quot; or &quot;downcut&quot; spiral, you can do a pulling cut, which is said to yield an extremely accurate upper edge (but I haven't tried that one, I prefer the &quot;upcut&quot; spiral's ability to transport away the shavings).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="135" LastEditorUserId="135" LastEditDate="2015-04-08T07:31:37.590" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T07:31:37.590" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="833" CreationDate="2015-04-07T15:46:45.833" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main advantage of using straight bits seems to be that they are cheaper, and easier to re-sharpen. They are perfectly fine for a number of uses though, especially where finish isn't particularly important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Downcut and upcut bits generally give a better cut and are easier to use when working with a handheld/manual-feed router. This is because instead of the cutting edge hitting the timber all at once (as with a straight-fluted cutter), there is only a single small point of contact between the cutter and the workpiece when edge-routing, and a more constant contact when slot-routing. Consequently you get less &amp;quot;chatter&amp;quot; of the router during use. If you're using a CNC router then you can also typically use a faster feed speed when cutting with a spiral bit just because of the superior chip clearance and the lessened chatter. The chip clearance with an upcut bit also means that they're good for plunging into the centre of a workpiece if this is important to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upcut bits give good chip clearance as they bring the chips up and out of a slotted cut, but they may cause the top cut surface to chip away more than a straight bit or a downcut bit. If you're cutting a composite, laminated or veneered board in a situation where the top surface finish is important (e.g. a kitchen worktop) but the bottom isn't, then a downcut bit can be better, as the downward spiral pushes down on the veneer/coating rather than pulling it upwards and causing the surface to chip away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using a downcut bit for partial-depth slotting (i.e. not going through the full depth of a board, and routing in the middle of a board rather than edging) you will have to go slowly as the chip clearance for these cutters is not as good as upcut/straight fluted bits - and in fact if you're not careful a downcut bit can compact chips into a slot, causing chip-recutting and potentially excessive heat buildup and even fires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're edging a board which is laminated on both sides, and you don't want either side to chip, you can actually get what's called a &amp;quot;compression cut&amp;quot; or up-down spiral blade where the lower part of the cutter is an upcut, and the upper part is a downcut, so chips are pushed towards the middle of the cutter. This means that neither the top or bottom of a board will experience major chipping. There's an example of a compression bit &lt;a href=&quot;http://cuttingtoolschicago.com/metalcuttingtools/amana-tool-compression-spiral-router-bits/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For completeness, if you want to get &lt;strong&gt;really&lt;/strong&gt; advanced then you can also get upcut, downcut and compression-cut bits with chip-breaking edges which look serrated and break the chips into very small chunks, which will give you super-fast cuts with little resistance. With these cutters you'll see some lines from the serrations, so they're typically only used for roughing or where surface finish isn't important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to get &lt;strong&gt;really really&lt;/strong&gt; advanced then you can get cutters which are combined roughing/finishing cutters where you have one edge which has a &amp;quot;chip-breaker&amp;quot; profile followed closely by a continuous (straight-edged spiral) finishing edge which would more or less take a cutter from a 3-flute spiral to really being a 6-flute spiral. These are also available in compression-cut bits! If you look &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.vortextool.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&amp;amp;category_id=2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; you can see some of these bits (scroll to near the bottom and look at the &amp;quot;Tornado&amp;quot; cutter). They're pretty advanced and not cheap, but if you're looking to do CNC routing of melamine-faced or ply boards at blistering speeds, then that's what you'll need. A bit outside the realms of what's used in the home-shop though!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastEditorUserId="272" LastEditDate="2021-09-27T04:58:48.990" LastActivityDate="2021-09-27T04:58:48.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="836" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-07T16:03:58.123" Score="10" ViewCount="15657" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a sliding miter saw with a seriously undersized dust port (1¼&quot;).  It's originally built to throw the dust in a tiny bag. When ever I make cuts, about 25% (bag) or 50% (shopvac) of the dust is collected and the rest just spread in a conical way.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I improve dust collection so that it captures a lot more dust?  Are there generic accessories available to remedy this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastActivityDate="2020-01-20T10:08:33.687" Title="How to improve a sliding miter saw dust collection?" Tags="|sawdust|dust-collection|miter-saw|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="836" CreationDate="2015-04-07T16:20:25.860" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most miter saws don't have very good dust collection. You can &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/ChopShop-Saw-Hood-p113.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;buy&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oneprojectcloser.com/how-to-make-compound-miter-saw-dust-hood/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;build&lt;/a&gt; a hood to catch the dust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sDTb2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;FastCap ChopShop hood&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/ChopShop-Saw-Hood-p113.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2xqnr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Homemade miter saw hood with dust collection&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.finewoodworking.com/fine-woodworking-knots/general-discussion/miter-saw-hood-and-ras-hood&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some hoods can be connected to your dust collector, while others funnel the dust down into a bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-04-07T16:50:46.077" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T16:50:46.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="836" CreationDate="2015-04-07T16:26:31.490" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tend to agree that compound miters have horrible dust collection design.  Mostly I've given up, even though I have hose connected to my dust collector.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My dust collector doesn't have enough static pressure and the little port tends to get clogged.  I'm sure that this is one tool the Shop-Vac actually works much better on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I do have one possible recommendation if you have a dust collector and the willingness to set this up.  There is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000223WV/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dust hood&lt;/a&gt;  (this one is 13&quot; x 16&quot;)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WhwY2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can set one of these behind the saw and it should catch a much larger % of sawdust from the miter.  It can cover an area and the saw will be sending most of the dust right at the hood.  I have two of these, one for my lathe and another where I use my belt sander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T16:26:31.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="814" CreationDate="2015-04-07T17:58:01.013" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A similar method to Daniel B.'s would be the common scroll saw method for making stacked cones. This could be adapted to a band saw with a sufficiently narrow blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tilt your saw's table to the angle complementary to the desired angle of your cone (e.g. 30&amp;deg; if you want a 60&amp;deg; slope).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make a zero-radius circular cut (i.e. rotate around a fixed point) on the face of a board. (This is why the blade needs to be really narrow.) Because of the angle of the table, this will produce a small cone.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using the base of the cone you just created as a template, scribe a circle on the same stock. Without moving the saw's table, cut out the circle. This will create a conical frustrum (yes, I had to look that up).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the new disk to scribe another circle and repeat until you get your full cone.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you plan on staining the wood, be aware that the color will fade from dark to light between the end grain and face grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="81" LastEditorUserId="81" LastEditDate="2015-04-07T20:57:13.633" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T20:57:13.633" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="840" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="851" CreationDate="2015-04-07T19:23:08.997" Score="15" ViewCount="23908" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reading &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/q/800/94&quot;&gt;Is glue the best permanent join?&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/q/707/94&quot;&gt;How can I join two boards at the ends?&lt;/a&gt; it sounds like the consensus is that gluing end-grain just doesn't work well.  As &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/801/94&quot;&gt;this answer explained&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When glue is applied to end-grain, the grain acts as little straws and&#xA;  draws a lot of the glue up the wood, away from the joint (similar to&#xA;  how the grain draws water up the tree when the tree is alive). In&#xA;  these cases, the majority of the glue is pulled away from the joint&#xA;  and (without more elaborate joinery techniques) a strong joint cannot&#xA;  be achieved, no matter how rough you sand or how tight your clamps&#xA;  are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this true for all glues &amp;ndash; even epoxy and CYA?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like there should be a way to seal the end-grain to prevent it from (excessively) drawing in glue, while still preserving the surface area and characteristics that allow wood glues to work effectively.  Are there no established processes for that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2022-07-12T22:04:42.660" Title="Gluing end-grain" Tags="|joinery|glue|end-grain|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="840" CreationDate="2015-04-07T19:30:06.443" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another consequence of the structure of wood is that those little straws don't have as much surface area for glue to adhere to as with side grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 'pore fillers' that will help even out the blotchiness of staining woods, and they can be used on end grain. I'm not sure if anyone has experimented whether or not they affect an end-grain glue joint though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T19:30:06.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="840" CreationDate="2015-04-07T19:46:02.383" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read that some will prep the end grain with a pre-glue job.  apply some glue to the end grain and let it dry, then actually do the glue up job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you still have the issue that the structure of end grain is not an ideal surface for glue.  I never leave a corner as a glue only joint.  There are many different kinds of joinery out there to strengthen the joints and I always try to use one of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T19:46:02.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="843" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="844" CreationDate="2015-04-07T20:36:47.287" Score="19" ViewCount="5962" Body="&lt;p&gt;I plan to build a coffee table following plans in Fine Woodworking. In the article, the author uses a plywood top, but I already have solid lumber that I'd like to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/05HlF.png&quot; alt=&quot;Table top with perpendicular rails&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Source: me, based on plans in Fine Woodworking #242&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The author of the article simply screws the cross rails (blue) to the top (yellow), but for a solid top this is not ideal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I attach these rails to the table top in a way that allows the wood to shrink and expand with changes in humidity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="281" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-03-11T16:50:08.617" LastActivityDate="2021-02-18T16:32:56.017" Title="How can I attach a solid table top to perpendicular cross rails?" Tags="|joinery|furniture|wood-movement|tabletop|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="843" CreationDate="2015-04-07T21:12:31.100" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use screws, but in a slightly different manner.  Instead of simply pre-drilling a hole and screwing the screw, you can use a router to create a slot with a countersink or counterbore bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r7Q3N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Counter sink and bore slotting bit&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=52607&amp;amp;cat=1,46168,69435,46171&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;LeeValley&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This slot will allow wood movement of your solid top while staying securely attached on your cross rails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T21:12:31.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="843" CreationDate="2015-04-07T21:16:57.180" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wood in your top will expand and contract in one direction, while the cross braces will expand and contract perpendicular to that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of different products and techniques that would help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a set of rails like the ones in your picture, consider 'figure 8' fasteners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LxJTU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LxJTU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Figure 8&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;https://www.leevalley.com/US/Garden/page.aspx?p=50311&amp;amp;cat=3,41306,41312&amp;amp;ap=1&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You create a shallow depression with a forstner bit or similar on the rail top, such that the figure eight fastener can rotate a bit when screwed down (not extremely tight, but not loose either.) These allow expansion in two directions if done correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option are oval washers like these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i0zLg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i0zLg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Oval&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;https://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?cat=3,41306,41309&amp;amp;p=40940&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They allow expansion in one direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2021-02-18T16:32:56.017" LastActivityDate="2021-02-18T16:32:56.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="843" CreationDate="2015-04-07T22:08:32.623" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tabletops are often attached to the frame and aprons using tabletop fasteners such as these, which allow for some wood movement:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jBYyh.png&quot; alt=&quot;tabletop fasteners&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/table-top-fasteners&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what they look like installed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aGT0M.png&quot; alt=&quot;tabletop fasteners installed&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/table-top-fasteners&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-04-07T23:44:54.800" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T23:44:54.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="847" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="850" CreationDate="2015-04-08T06:11:58.353" Score="12" ViewCount="22411" Body="&lt;p&gt;SawStop sells table saws with a safety feature which causes the blade to descend and stop if it makes contact with someone's skin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there other options, similar to a SawStop system, available on the market today? Specifically, I'm looking for a &lt;em&gt;product&lt;/em&gt; that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;allows me to operate my table saw without any guards over the blade*&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;prevents the blade from cutting through my flesh&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is not affiliated with SawStop&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;* not a recommendation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="281" LastActivityDate="2021-03-24T02:37:56.977" Title="Are there any alternatives to a SawStop?" Tags="|safety|table-saw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="847" CreationDate="2015-04-08T06:27:52.700" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, a new product with skin-sensing technology was just recently announced by Bosch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;The key to Bosch’s safe saw is a device that uses similar technology that Bosch’s auto-parts division uses to deploy air bags in automobiles. ... With this saw, when the blade senses a finger (or any flesh), the device fires a cartridge that immediately and oh-so-speedily drops the blade completely below the table surface, leaving the user with only a slight scrape or skin nick. &lt;strong&gt;Unlike SawStop—which ruins both blade and brake cartridge—the Bosch flesh-detecting Active Response Technology kills the power and lets the blade coast to a stop safely within the cabinet, preserving it for future use&lt;/strong&gt;.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(My emphasis: a significant improvement over the SawStop break.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read more about it here on Wood Magazine's site: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodmagazine.com/blogs/woodworking-blog/2015/03/16/bosch-develops-tablesaw-with-blade-brake-safety/&quot;&gt;Bosch develops tablesaw with blade-brake safety&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T06:27:52.700" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="849" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-08T06:44:38.983" Score="6" ViewCount="2152" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have access to a large amount of lumber that is infested with bed bugs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an extermination technique that I can do at home to rid this wood of the infestation? I am open to applying pretty much any chemical that is readily available for consumers to purchase. It's ok if it's poisonous to humans, I have space where I can store the lumber for a few days where people won't be exposed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="345" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-04-08T19:15:19.353" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T20:03:59.737" Title="How do you remove bed bugs from lumber?" Tags="|lumber|insects|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="847" CreationDate="2015-04-08T06:57:18.690" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, SawStop is the only table saw currently available for purchase (as of Apr 2015) which features a flesh-triggered active safety device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, on March 16, 2015, Bosch announced a jobsite table saw featuring an active safety system they call REAXX. Although the saw is not yet available for purchase, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boschtools.com/AboutBoschTools/PressRoom/Pages/031815_reaxxsaw.aspx&quot;&gt;press release&lt;/a&gt; notes, &quot;The Bosch REAXX Jobsite Table Saw will be available fall 2015.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, in 2010, Whirlwind Tool &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ltFuEKCnM4&quot;&gt;demonstrated&lt;/a&gt; a flesh-triggered blade brake which stops the blade in 1/8 second but this system is also not available on the market as of April 2015. Although they have not brought a product to market as of April 2015, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whirlwindtool.com/2012/index.php?option=com_content&amp;amp;view=article&amp;amp;id=88&amp;amp;Itemid=75&quot;&gt;press release&lt;/a&gt; states that Whirlwind Tool is looking for someone to buy or license their technology. According to the press release, the company was apparently tied up in litigation from 2012 until possibly early 2015 (the press release is not clear on the end date). This is the only active safety device for a table saw that can be retrofitted onto an existing table saw, and the company has named the device &lt;em&gt;Black Box&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How each system works&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SawStop's namesake safety system uses a one-time-use spring-loaded cartridge to push a perforated piece of aluminum into the blade and causes the blade's transferred rotational inertia to pull the blade below the table. The blade brake stops the blade in less than 5 milliseconds, but it can damage the blade and must be replaced after each activation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bosch's REAXX system uses a two-sided cartridge (reportedly based on Bosch's airbag deployment technology) to push the blade below the table while the blade spins down naturally. Bosch's system does not damage the blade and the cartridge can be flipped around and used a second time before it must be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Whirlwind Tool Black Box differs from the other two systems in that it does not sense flesh contact directly through the blade. Instead, it &lt;a href=&quot;http://whirlwindtool.com/2012/index.php?option=com_content&amp;amp;view=article&amp;amp;id=78&amp;amp;Itemid=64&quot;&gt;detects the proximity of flesh&lt;/a&gt; to a blade guard. When the blade guard detects flesh within a certain distance, it triggers a non-destructive blade brake which stops the blade in 1/8 second (which may be fast enough to prevent an injury since the brake is supposed to activate &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; flesh contact with the blade).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-04-08T23:04:01.927" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T23:04:01.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="840" CreationDate="2015-04-08T07:32:01.777" Score="11" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Update, 2021&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The picture appears now to be a little more complex than previously supposed, see update to other Answer in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4233/what-are-the-different-grain-directions-and-how-do-they-affect-joint-strength/4240#4240&quot;&gt;What are the different grain directions, and how do they affect joint strength?&lt;/a&gt; and the Comments that follow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice end-grain glue joints &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; typically weak for various reasons discussed in the follow-ons to that iconic video. Even in a low-stress use like a smallish picture frame it is still advisable to ensure your mitres are pretty much perfect, you glue and clamp with particular care. And by all means reinforce the joint if you want to future-proof it against unexpected strain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Various reinforcement methods are available for mitres, the simplest (e.g. nailing or pegging) take almost no extra time, and some of the more involved ones (e.g. keys) look good while adding lots of strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it sounds like the consensus is that gluing end-grain just doesn't work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has long been acknowledged to be the weakest joint. However, that doesn't mean you can't or shouldn't do it, ever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue is actually whether it's &lt;em&gt;strong enough&lt;/em&gt;, not strong per se. In a picture frame for example a simple glued mitre is not considered strong enough, and for good reason because the mitre would be the only joint responsible for holding the piece together, the glue surface area is small and the combined weight of picture, matt and glass can be considerable. And note the orientation of the joint faces to the load — pulling it directly apart. Failure in this situation could be considered likely, not just possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if the mitre is at right angles to the load, and the weight it must bear is small (e.g. the weight of just the pieces of wood themselves, as in a crown moulding), then a simple glued mitre could easily be sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be honest though, given how easy it is to reinforce the mitre, even a single staple across the joint adds a lot of strength, it hardly seems worth taking the chance that it might separate on its own. I should also mention corrugated fasteners here, although they're looked down upon by many woodworkers as being crude they should be considered for this as they stabilise the joint immensely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this true for all glues – even epoxy and CYA?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mostly yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CA/superglue is a particularly poor woodworking adhesive anyway as it is too brittle to deal with movement, and it's poorly suited to highly-absorbent materials which of course end grain is (neither of which stop it being sold for this purpose).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Epoxy on the other hand is a much stronger class of adhesive and it deals better with unusual surfaces or textures. To glue end grain best with epoxy you would want to pre-wet both joint faces with the adhesive and then apply additional glue to the surface before bringing the pieces together. There is a problem however, as strong as epoxy is it is not a good thin-film adhesive (thin like woodworkers want, nearly invisible) which is why you don't want to use very firm clamp pressure with epoxies. So to be at maximum strength the mitre joint would end up quite visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like there should be a way to seal the end-grain to prevent it from (excessively) drawing in glue, while still preserving the surface area and characteristics that allow wood glues to work effectively. Are there no established processes for that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The absorbency of the end grain was identified by craftsmen as the problem and sealing of the end grain prior to final glueing to fix it was theorised a long time back, possibly before the 19th century. Certainly by then there was mention in woodworking handbooks of 'sizing' the end grain (painting with thinned glue) prior to application of the full-strength adhesive to the mitre and then bringing the joint together. Done correctly this does create a far stronger union between the mitred pieces than otherwise, but even with that it is not as strong a joint as is sometimes desirable. Bear in mind the context here: the strength of other joints in woodworking is &lt;em&gt;as strong as the material itself&lt;/em&gt;, which is quite a high standard to meet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using modern PVA-type woodworking adhesives if you want to avoid using any kind of additional reinforcement then this is the method to adopt. In bullet points for clarity:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The glue for sizing is normally slightly thinned; by how much is open to debate, but it seems likely the absorbency of the wood species should be the deciding factor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The size is painted on the end grain and left to partially dry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Application of full-strength glue and clamping.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drying time for the sizing may be anywhere from 15 minutes to an hour, depending on wood species, the glue used and local conditions (temperature and relative humidity).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-10-12T16:50:12.533" LastActivityDate="2021-10-12T16:50:12.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="320" CreationDate="2015-04-08T08:54:28.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly this isn't something I'd try to tackle myself. You're going to have a hard time making the teeth uniform unless you make some kind of specialized and complicated jig which probably won't be worth the effort unless you're a very heavy user and need to sharpen a blade every week or so. I'd say this is unlikely though since I work at a large joinery shop where we make hundreds of hardwood windows and doors and we probably only change/sharpen our crosscut, mitre saw and ripsaw blades every few months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that there are sharpening services in my area which will sharpen circular saw blades for about $10 equivalent. To my eyes this cost is well worth it - they will have special equipment specifically for sharpening circular saw blades and will give the blade perfectly sharp and uniform edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T08:54:28.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="714" CreationDate="2015-04-08T10:13:12.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding again to the above answers I'd say that it hugely depends on the type of wood and finish, but also on the method of sanding. Sanding by hand, with a &quot;pad&quot; type orbital sander, or with a disc type random orbital sander with the same grit will give you pretty different finishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We use random orbital disc sanders for finishing at our joinery workshop on Sapele, Idigbo and European White Oak and always use 120 grit. This gives an excellent finish when painted with a spray-applied water-based microporous paint or stain for external joinery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also find that with certain timbers and in certain conditions, finer grit papers tend to &quot;gum up&quot; - you get dust stuck to the paper which then leaves indentations in the timber rather than continuing to sand it, which can be counter-productive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T10:13:12.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="703" CreationDate="2015-04-08T10:19:29.393" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From experience of a few different thicknessers, I'd say no shorter than around 300mm (approx 12&quot;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth noting though that if a piece does get stuck (i.e. the outfeed roller doesn't have a good enough grip to pull the piece all the way through) then you can often push it through with the next piece you are thicknessing or with a thinner piece of timber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think I've ever had a piece &quot;kick back&quot; out of the thicknesser as the infeed roller seems to stop this. I have however had pieces of timber &quot;explode&quot; but this has always been because there was a split in the timber or I was trying to thickness it to too small of a size. The pieces ejected were not travelling at what I would call dangerous speeds, however as with any woodworking machinery I would advise the use of safety specs or goggles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T10:19:29.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="672" CreationDate="2015-04-08T10:27:53.667" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say, having tried several methods (freehand with a whetstone or diamond stone, with a honing guide on a stone, and using a wheel type grinder/honer) that using a wheel type grinder/honer is by far the quickest, easiest and most consistent way to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm talking about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.screwfix.com/p/scheppach-tiger-3-200mm-wet-stone-sharpening-honing-machine-240v/5521F?kpid=5521F&amp;amp;cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales%20tracking%20url&amp;amp;kpid=5521F&amp;amp;cm_mmc=Google-_-Shopping%20-%20Power%20Tools-_-Shopping%20-%20Power%20Tools&amp;amp;gclid=CLHs4JW-5sQCFQcewwodc1sAig&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; kind of setup where you have a stone wheel on one side, a leather honing wheel on the other side and an integrated guide to keep everything straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not the cheapest way, but looking at a good 3-piece diamond whetstone set (coarse to smooth), this grinding/honing wheel system actually only costs about 25% more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also a number of videos (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3n4GzXVQvUE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;such as this one&lt;/a&gt;) which show the best way to use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wheels, motors etc. also seem to last an awfully long time. I work in a joinery shop with ~20 employees, so a lot of sharpening goes on, and I think we've had our wheel setup for 4-5 years without having to replace anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T10:27:53.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="532" CreationDate="2015-04-08T10:51:17.130" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pefc.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PEFC&lt;/a&gt; certified / accredited suppliers to be reasonably sure that you're getting sustainable timber, but the only way to be absolutely sure that the specific timber you're using is OK is to attain a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pefc.org/standards/chain-of-custody&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;chain of custody certificate&lt;/a&gt;. This tracks the specific wood you've bought right back to source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other bodies such as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fsc-uk.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FSC&lt;/a&gt; which can also provide such certification, but I'm unsure how international they are (I'm in the UK), whereas the PEFC seems to cover the US etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often, obtaining such a certificate will cost extra, since there is more work involved to track the timber, though it may be the case that some suppliers issue such a certificate &quot;as standard&quot; for some species.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T10:51:17.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="857" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="858" CreationDate="2015-04-08T12:02:35.283" Score="28" ViewCount="8198" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever I'm joining wood together, no matter what type of joint, I turn to wood glue. But there are other glues out there, such as epoxies and Gorilla Glue. It seems the alternatives are very strong and capable, but people only turn to them under special circumstances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is it about wood glue that makes it the best choice for common joinery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2018-03-23T10:59:36.900" Title="What is special about wood glue?" Tags="|joinery|glue|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="857" CreationDate="2015-04-08T12:32:53.747" Score="38" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume you're talking about PVA glue. I think it just has a lot of desirable properties. Off the top of my head:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water-based and non-toxic (unless you eat it) - no nasty fumes or health risks. This also means that it is easy to clean off of benches, brushes etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dries quickly enough that you don't have to leave parts in clamps for several days, but not so quickly that you have to work too fast with it. This also means that if necessary then you can clamp pieces together, then pull them apart and reposition them if needed within 15 minutes or so. In colder temperatures you may still be able to reposition the parts for an hour or more.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is pre-mixed, single-part (i.e. not a two-part epoxy or powder which requires mixing up in batches to use). This means that there's no real preparation of the glue needed - just pour some out of a bottle and use it for a couple of hours (again depending on temperature).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is at a good viscosity to soak into the wood by the right amount to form a strong joint. Also means you can brush it onto a joint in the correct amounts and it won't just run off over your shop floor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dries clear - joints do not have obvious glue lines.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is relatively cheap.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is stable enough in different environments (heat, humidity) when cured.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is flexible enough not to be too brittle when cured.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gives no risk of gluing fingers together unlike cyanoacrylate (&quot;super&quot;) glues.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Versatility - can also be used as a sealer or primer for certain finishes / applications.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Has been used reliably for many years.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other glues which may be stronger etc. but these are often epoxy or animal glues which take time to mix together and once mixed have a limited working life, otherwise they may be toxic or have nasty fumes, require special preparation or be more expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, PVA is good (strong etc.) enough for most applications whilst also being cheap and easy to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One negative that may be little-known is that PVA joints can &quot;creep&quot; which means that the glue stretches and the joint moves under long term load. For most applications this is not a significant issue though. It's for this reason that animal glues are more useful for things like gluing guitar necks where the joint is under near constant pressure and any movement in the joint would ruin the product or assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a good summary of glue types &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.solowoodworker.com/wood/glue.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastEditorUserId="272" LastEditDate="2018-03-23T10:59:36.900" LastActivityDate="2018-03-23T10:59:36.900" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="849" CreationDate="2015-04-08T13:46:10.147" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's worth knowing that Bed bugs don't have a particular affection for wood but any small space where they can hide near a host.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Don't use it&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best advice I would say for materials that have a known infestation. I would also suggest avoiding toxic fumigation. &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;It's OK if it's poisonous to humans&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; is a scary concept. Yes, you will be fumigating this wood and will keep people away from it. &lt;strong&gt;However&lt;/strong&gt; you don't say what you will be doing with the wood. If humans/animals will have contact with it later then I worry about latent chemical residue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most sites that discuss fumigation, where wooden furniture is concerned, warn that the process might not penetrate the wood enough. If that is the case then all that would have been accomplished is exposure to bed bugs &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; toxic chemicals. Those points are a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; important aspect of what you should consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The little buggers can survive for a year without a host so even if you think you get them all it can be a while before you see them again (assuming they haven't moved!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;If you &lt;em&gt;really, really&lt;/em&gt; must&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general having the wood in a dry kiln or any heat controlled environment, for an extended period of time should kill the bugs. FYI using a dry kiln is the IPPC approved method of non-toxic treatment of pallets before they are shipped internationally. Some are more resistant that others especially at different stages in development. Also sealing the wood after that can help slow if not stop their propagation. Be wary though if they are still contained inside the finished wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In theory a credible source&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at an in depth article on bed bugs from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3255965/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;US National Library of Medicine &lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heat is a very practical and effective means of nonchemical bed bug control. The exposure of &lt;em&gt;C. lectularius&lt;/em&gt; to 45°C for 1 h will kill all stages , and at temperatures over 60°C, all bed bugs are rapidly killed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never have kiln dried anything and don't know if those temperatures are liable to damage rough wood or dry them too quickly. Just understand that heat can kill 'em dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this little post useful as well. It is centric to a university but the advice is applicable outside that scope. For a general guide on bed bugs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nysipm.cornell.edu/publications/bb_guidelines/files/bb_guidelines_best_mgmt.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Best Management Practices for Controlling Bed Bugs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Casual Nudging Reminder&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, there are other ways to get wood and I would strongly consider using other sources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T20:15:12.707" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="672" CreationDate="2015-04-08T14:28:05.383" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are really two aspects to sharpening chisels and plane blades - creating a primary bevel and then honing the edge. The angle and surface finish of the primary bevel is not critical - it can be off a few degrees and can be relatively rough. Many methods can be used to create it: bench grinder, disc sander, belt sander, coarse diamond stone, sandpaper, etc. I prefer a bench grinder with a friable wheel and a jig to hold the tool because it is quick. The real challenge is in honing the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There appears to be universal agreement as to what constitutes sharpness – from Ron Hock:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;“A sharp edge only exists where two planes (i.e., the back and the bevel of a plane iron or chisel, or the two bevels of a knife) meet with zero radius. “&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There does exist, however, significant discussion about how to get there. One of the main areas of discussion is free hand vs. jig use. I was never able to achieve a razor sharp edge (plane or knife) free hand. I’m sure part of that is learning the skill. However, referring to the accepted definition of a sharp edge, it is impossible to get as close to a zero radius free hand vs a jig. One may get close enough for their personal taste/use, and it will be quicker than using a jig. But, the free hand radius will not be as small, and will likely contain several edge lines along the length of the edge, and will therefore not hold a usable level of sharpness for as long. So, over a period of use, the extra time to use a jig is paid back through extended edge life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the smoother the edge is the longer it will last. The more serrated an edge is the quicker micro fractures of the steel occur and the edge wears down more quickly. Many support the use of stropping edges on leather with one of many compounds. While stropping will produce a sharp edge (I can shave hair and cut paper with it!), I am not aware of any of the compounds having grit as small as the 0.3um film I use. The larger the grit, the more of a serrated edge and the faster the edge wears down. Stropping is typically done freehand, and it is impossible to hold an angle as well as a jig. Wet sharpeners, such as Tormek, Grizzly, Sheppach, at least hold a constant angle, however the stone, even dressed to fine, leaves relatively large scratches, which result in sharp, serrated edges that break down faster. If you can find actual submicron compound, and use it on a fresh leather wheel of a wet sharpener, on a blade that has been honed down to 5um or less, then you might be in business.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another issue with stropping – what happens to the metal particles that are worn away? The wire edge that may be broken off on the strop? There is no way to clean the metal particles off the strop. They embed in the leather (or mdf or other soft substrate) to continue to scratch up that edge and add serrations to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While there are many honing methods that the user is satisfied with, using a jig and creating microbevels is the best way. &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/OSU55/blog/39391&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a link to my method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T14:28:05.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="857" CreationDate="2015-04-08T14:54:52.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a word, effective. Sufficient strength, easy clean up, no fumes, price all make PVA wood glues the choice over epoxy and polyurethane glues because they are overall the most effective. The other glues have their specific uses. This is with respect to furniture joinery, and not structural use such as construction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T14:54:52.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="602" CreationDate="2015-04-08T17:42:39.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on the wood. I'm not sure how well Kempas reacts to sunlight, but it may help or hinder you. I would suggest cutting a sample and leaving it to sun bake for a day or three, then compare it with an &quot;unbaked&quot; piece and see if you like the change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/preventing-color-changes-in-exotic-woods/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The wood database&lt;/a&gt; has a good article on how you can cope with wood changing colors over time: treat(chemicals/dyes), postpone(UV protective finishes), or accept(Love the new color, maybe even try to encourage the shift). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are chemical treatments for wood which permanently alter the color of the wood. Some are very simple even, but not only do they vary from wood to wood, but from cut to cut. So if you have several boards in a panel, each panel may take the chemical treatment differently. Something as simple as rubbing lemon juice on the surface might change it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodworking.org/WC/Garchive01/3_27colorants.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This page&lt;/a&gt; has a lot of possibilities for less common staining methods. The idea of using coffee as a stain intrigues me. Other possibilities include adding extra tannins by soaking it in tea, using various household chemicals (bleach, baking soda) to alter the color. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/us/shopping/techinfo.aspx?p=47277&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ammonia fuming&lt;/a&gt;, though I have no experience with it. It reacts with tannic acid in the wood, which would have different levels from tree to tree and species to species. Once again I'm not sure how it would work with Kempas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, as far as preserving the original color of the wood, that's harder. When the tree is dead and the wood is cut, it will be difficult to fully halt the chemical processes that have begun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T17:42:39.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="849" CreationDate="2015-04-08T17:52:46.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bedbugs are easily killed with heat, and fortunately high heat is not required. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www2.epa.gov/bedbugs/top-ten-tips-prevent-or-control-bed-bugs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;45C or 113F is sufficient&lt;/a&gt; to kill all stages of bedbug life if heated for an hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the amount of lumber, size of the room, how its stacked, and how well insulated the room is, heating can take a long time. I'd suggest one or more high output heaters.  If you can place a probe in or near the middle of the stack you can tell when the wood has reached sufficient temperature. If you add fans to create a convection current the process may go more quickly.  Heating the room to well above 45C will heat the wood interior to 45C more quickly, but you'll have to balance that against possible damage to the wood and finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the room is sealed.  A wood drying kiln might not be appropriate if it uses a lot of unfiltered ventilation - and most do, since the primary objective is to remove moisture.  Further, some kilns don't attain the heat needed, instead relying on high volume and/or high velocity air to extract moisture from wood. Be aware that &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=dormant+bedbug&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bedbugs can go dormant&lt;/a&gt;. When food becomes unavailable, adults can live many months or longer without feeding.  Air drying or low temperature kilns will not eliminate bedbugs, and depending on how they are ventilated may, in fact, spread the infestation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bedbug infestation suggests that the wood is already dried and possibly finished, having been in close contact with humans for some period of time.  This temperature shouldn't cause problems, but be aware that it will dry out more depending on the length of time required to bring all pieces of wood up to the uniform 45C temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't try chemicals or poisoning.  Crevices, nooks, and spaces inside the wood may prevent the method from being 100% successful, and it only takes a few bedbug eggs to restart an infestation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the meantime, make sure you thoroughly launder your clothing as you come into contact with the wood prior to disinfecting it, and taking good hot showers.  Bedbugs are something you shouldn't let propagate if at all possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="235" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-17T20:03:59.737" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T20:03:59.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="840" CreationDate="2015-04-08T18:00:08.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your result will never be as good as cross grain on cross grain.  TiteBond manufactures a thick and long working time glue designed for end grain called &amp;quot;No Run, No Drip Wood Glue&amp;quot; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.titebond.com/product/glues/d1b48beb-7d60-4ce7-b57b-6bf19351778b&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Titebond Quick &amp;amp; Thick Multi-Surface Glue&lt;/a&gt;). I've used this before and I've been pleased with the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastEditorUserId="12340" LastEditDate="2022-07-12T22:04:42.660" LastActivityDate="2022-07-12T22:04:42.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="857" CreationDate="2015-04-08T18:43:04.107" Score="14" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever I'm joining wood together, no matter what type of joint, I turn to wood glue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Wood glue&quot; isn't actually one thing. It's essentially a marketing term or selling aid more than a description of a specific product. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a traditionalist the words wood glue would actually call to mind hot hide glue and nothing else. And both epoxy and presumably polyurethane adhesive you also mention are heavily used worldwide to bond wood, in boat building for example, so they could just as easily be called wood glue, even though they're also very good as bonding other materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're referring to what I usually call the conventional wood glues, which are types of PVA (see note bottom). This wasn't developed specifically for wood, it was just found to be particularly suited to it. The simplest type of white PVA sold as wood glue is no different from the white craft glue children use in schools and craftworkers use for cloth and paper projects. It's also used as a bonding aid for plaster, as a bookbinding adhesive and as an additive for concrete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is it about wood glue that makes it the best choice for common joinery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better question would be: why are PVAs the most common choice? How a person defines best is always going to be somewhat subjective as there's always a component of best &lt;em&gt;for them&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So why are PVAs the most common? I'd have to say it's probably mostly about convenience: it comes at the usable consistency in a bottle, it's easy to apply, easy to spread, doesn't set too quickly, easy to clean up and non-toxic. And of course it's important that it can form very strong joints in wood (the saying &quot;as strong as the wood itself&quot; is not an exaggeration, as destructive testing demonstrates).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While there are still a few adhesives sold for use with wood (such as the Cascamite much favoured by old-school woodworkers in the UK) which can far exceed the strength of PVA, this strength is actually irrelevant in any furniture context since PVA joints can already be as strong or stronger than the material itself if properly formed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: PVA-type glues are by no means one product with a single set of characteristics — there are essentially three classes, Type-I, Type-II and Type-III, with distinct differences (primarily in water resistance).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T18:43:04.107" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="866" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="869" CreationDate="2015-04-08T19:32:30.220" Score="9" ViewCount="5654" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wood, well most wood, is heavy. Is there any such thing as people ever hollowing out the inside of the wood to make the finished product lighter? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, let's say I have a 4in. x 4in. x 8' piece of timber to make 4 desk legs out of. Instead of having four square desk legs of solid wood, could I hollow out the inside of the timber leaving only about a 1/2 inch thickness on each of the four sides? This would save wood for other projects, and accomplish making the desk lighter while hopefully still providing a pretty sturdy, un-wobbly base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What tools and method could I use to hollow out the inside of this piece of timber?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="126" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T17:01:02.687" Title="Hollowing out a piece of timber" Tags="|lumber|hollowing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="866" CreationDate="2015-04-08T19:38:43.340" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would need one heck of a plug cutter to bore a core out of an 8' timber. I don't know of any other tool that would hollow it without turning the center into chips, which would not be particularly useful for future projects. (Except hamster cage lining, maybe.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative may be to resaw your timber into 9/16&quot; thick slabs (leaving some room to plane one side to a nice finish), then assemble box sections for your legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to taper the solid 4x4 timber, cutting material off the outside, if your goal is simply to lighten it. You might also consider resawing into 4 2x2 posts and using those as your legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T19:38:43.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="866" CreationDate="2015-04-08T19:45:47.480" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rather than hollowing out a piece of 4&quot;x4&quot;x8' piece of lumber, think about how to use thinner stock to come up with something that &lt;em&gt;looks&lt;/em&gt; like 4&quot;x4&quot;x8'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a long tradition of this- porch columns are the first thing that come to mind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qwTRF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wooden Porch Columns&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those aren't solid wood, they're built up from smaller stock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the technique, that depends on the overall size of the project, your budget, your tool set, and expertise. For something like table legs, you can use a locking miter bit with thinner stock to make what looks like a solid leg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GBNil.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Locking Miter Bit&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of lumber as raw stock to be cut up and put together in various ways. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An 8' 4&quot;x4&quot; would yield about 7 pieces 1/2&quot; thick x 4&quot; x 8' long. (You lose some with the saw kerf.) Four of those 7 pieces could then be split lengthwise and across the grain to make four 2&quot; x 1/2&quot; x 48&quot; pieces. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a lock miter on the pieces and you'd end up with four legs, ~2&quot; square, 48&quot; tall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And you'd have enough lumber leftover to make the skirt of a table frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2015-04-08T20:06:48.397" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T20:06:48.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="866" CreationDate="2015-04-08T20:42:44.040" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a table saw that can rip at least 2&quot; deep, you could do something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MYzbg.png&quot; alt=&quot;&amp;quot;hollowed&amp;quot; 4 by 4&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: me&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dark gray areas are waste. This assumes you have a .1&quot; thick blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, you would take off 1/2&quot; from opposite sides, then take 1/2&quot; off from the remaining uncut sides. To bring the hollowed piece back to square, you remove two blade thicknesses from the edge of each wider piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leaves you with a decent sized &quot;core&quot; that can be used elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you make clean cuts and align everything well when gluing it back together you will have a piece that looks like a 4x4, but is 60% lighter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To glue the pieces back together, you could just butt join them, but ideally you'd probably use a biscuit joiner to both align the pieces, and give them a little extra strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="281" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T20:42:44.040" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="857" CreationDate="2015-04-08T21:09:25.053" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, it works well on wood.  I can't use it to fix plastic or ceramic or metal.  It's not ultimate or versatile. I guess you often handle materials that it works well on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You did say you use wood glue &lt;em&gt;whenever you're using wood&lt;/em&gt;. So?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are different substances that can be called &lt;em&gt;wood glue&lt;/em&gt;. There are bottled creamy one-part concoctions based on &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyvinyl_acetate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PVA&lt;/a&gt; but even then more than one kind:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.titebond.com/product_selector_results.aspx?type=categ&amp;amp;id=Woodworking%20Glues&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Titebond makes 3&lt;/a&gt; (classic, water resistant and generally improved, waterproof) plus viscus varities for trim (high initial tack). &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SJHbA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there is powder that you mix with water, (Weldwood brand comes to mind) and different kinds of hide glue. I used fish-skin glue to fix a Chinese strinnged instrument, to be authentic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for gluing wood with stuff not specifially sold as &lt;em&gt;wood glue&lt;/em&gt;, there is epoxy and polyurethane glue and cyanoacrolate glues good for mixed material joints but useful for &lt;em&gt;just wood&lt;/em&gt; sometimes: instant bond, no clamping pressure, void filling, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can also be handy to use a hot-melt glue gun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So why use only one? Even among the PVA group, if it works OK why do you need more than one? If you had to go beyond the feature set of your stand-by bottle, you would. If you wanted to &lt;em&gt;optimize&lt;/em&gt; the joint, you &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; if you were an enthusiast and didn't mind de-optimizing for ease and convenience. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were attaching one piece of trim, I'd note the issues with &quot;regular&quot; glue, but then I'm done. Faced with a large project and remembering that experience,  I'd pick up a bottle of &quot;Titebond for trim&quot; when I noticed it on the run to buy supplies.  &lt;strong&gt;And so your collection grows.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For outdoor chairs, I saw &lt;em&gt;yankee workshop&lt;/em&gt; use marine glue from a caulking cylinder dispenser. And that's wood-on-wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For occasional and varied uses, you buy what's sold as general-purpose. So instead of asking &lt;em&gt;&amp;ldquo;why do I always use this?&amp;rdquo;&lt;/em&gt;, you should note: &lt;em&gt;&amp;ldquo;Isn't it great that there is a general-purpose versitile product that has a long shelf life and works reasonably well on so many tasks?&amp;rdquo;&lt;/em&gt;  no surprise that this is what you keep in your garrage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="315" LastEditorUserId="315" LastEditDate="2017-04-02T05:46:10.500" LastActivityDate="2017-04-02T05:46:10.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10" CreationDate="2015-04-08T21:18:36.243" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;An oft overlooked reason for burning is excessive pitch build up on the bits.  Use a bit cleaner (I use Simple Green) and nylon or brass brush to clean the bit and it will cut much cleaner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T21:18:36.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10" CreationDate="2015-04-08T23:46:06.990" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The direction of the cut makes a difference.&lt;/strong&gt; Normally we cut against the spin of the bit, clockwise on the inside of a frame and counterclockwise on the outside. If you are concerned about burns, you can go with the spin of the bit(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/us/shopping/TechInfo.aspx?p=56809&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a climb cut&lt;/a&gt;) rather than against it. It's even more important to make shallow cuts with this, because a deep cut can make the router try to run off from you, or &quot;climb out&quot; of the proper position (hence the name).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;A safety note regarding climb cuts: This is for hand-held routers only. Do not perform climb cuts on a router table as it may yank the workpiece away and pull your hands into the spinning bit. With a hand-held router the worst that's likely to happen is you have a little scalloping to remove&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, sharp, clean blades, a lower spindle speed, and shallow passes are all helpful in preventing burns. Keep your feed rate steady, lingering will cause burns as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And because the internet loves list, here's&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/how-to/10-tips-clean-cuts-router-bits/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rockler's&lt;/a&gt; list of ways to ensure a good cut:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use bits with 1/2&quot; shanks for better stability  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure the bit is properly installed (all the way in then back out 1/8&quot;)  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure bits are sharp, smooth, and clean. Ensure guide bearings spin freely.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Control your bit speed. Larger bits need slower speeds.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect a shop vac to the router for chip removal  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make multiple light passes rather than one heavy cut  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too slow will burn the wood, too fast will make a rough cut  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep the workpiece from moving. Clamps are good. Rockler seems to think their &quot;bench Cookies&quot; are good. I've never used them.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Route in the correct direction. They give the &quot;traditional&quot; non-climbing cut (counter-clockwise on the outside, clockwise on the inside) but see above regarding using a climbing cut to avoid burns.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rout edges in the right order, end-grain first then long-grain, this will remove tear-out from the end-grain edges being routed.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="180" LastEditDate="2015-07-13T18:21:36.100" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T18:21:36.100" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="873" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="875" CreationDate="2015-04-09T03:32:48.520" Score="9" ViewCount="1168" Body="&lt;p&gt;Somewhere I read that you should use a round mallet to hit a square chisel and a square (I assume this means flat-faced) mallet to hit round chisels because otherwise when you strike the chisel you could hit it at an awkward angle and cause it to mess up the cut. Is this statement referencing the top (the face that you strike with the mallet) or the sides of the handle? Is there any objective evidence that it matters what kind of mallet you use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-04-09T07:46:14.467" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T10:55:24.827" Title="Does it matter what type of mallet I use with my chisels?" Tags="|chisel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="874" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-09T03:53:36.983" Score="12" ViewCount="904" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-to/article/frame-and-panel-doors-that-stay-flat.aspx&quot;&gt;Fine Woodworking article&lt;/a&gt; I read a while back has a picture of Steve Latta dropping boards onto concrete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The caption reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Drop relieves stress. For larger doors, like those on armoires, Latta&#xA;  actually drops rough parts on the floor! The impact releases internal&#xA;  tensions and lets the parts finish warping before final dimensioning,&#xA;  he says.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought there was an accompanying video but I couldn't find it with a brief search.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a great amount of respect for any professional woodworker, but to me this seems really sketchy. Is this true, and if so, how would you explain it to a 5-year-old using pictures? Are there any studies which have measured and confirmed or debunked this claim?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-04-07T22:28:17.177" LastActivityDate="2016-04-07T22:28:17.177" Title="Does dropping boards really relieve internal tensions?" Tags="|lumber|warp|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="873" CreationDate="2015-04-09T10:55:24.827" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Despite my comment above, I feel this is a very valuable question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there any objective evidence that it matters what kind of mallet you use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you could find it, if you would accept anecdotal evidence, but I'm certain it would be contradictory. From everything I've read, going back to historical books and right up to modern Internet sources, and from what I've seen in various craftwork cultures (from Asia to Europe to the Americas) I think that what works best is primarily going to be a matter of individual preference. How each person arrived at those preferences is usually a melange of early experience based on what they were taught firsthand or read in a book, and then some amount of personal experimentation. This is the way it is for almost all handwork practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing is certain: what one person firmly says can't or shouldn't be used to drive chisels (be it a large steel-headed hammer or a rubber mallet or a deadblow) another person uses preferentially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T10:55:24.827" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="874" CreationDate="2015-04-09T13:56:10.073" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find this really hard to believe.. if dropping a piece of lumber did 'relieve stress' then there should be no stress in it by the time it makes it to your local lumber distributor-- it's been dropped numerous times between tree and your shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are we sure the original publish date of this article wasn't April 1? ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2015-04-09T14:13:33.187" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T14:13:33.187" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="874" CreationDate="2015-04-09T14:54:07.393" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stress is only relieved by either bending or cracking. If dropping cracks the wood in the right way, then stress is relieved. You could potentially relieve internal stresses by encouraging it to bend in the right way, but that seems risky - how do you know which direction to go, and how far?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T14:54:07.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="866" CreationDate="2015-04-09T17:01:02.687" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only time I can think of where you would actually need to hollow out a piece of wood, would be when you're making a spindle for a floor lamp. These need to have a hollow core for cabling to run through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The workshop I currently work in was previously a lamp factory and they left behind a &quot;coring&quot; machine. I don't actually know what the proper name for the machine is, but essentially it was for drilling long holes through timber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do a google search for &quot;long hole boring&quot; there are a few videos and tutorials on how you might go about it. Generally I think you need a lathe, and a long auger bit such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-evolution-series-long-hole-boring-bit-8mm&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; but these tools are mostly meant for drilling out narrow holes for cabling and the like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly I'd say if you have anything wider than a couple of inches that you need/want to be hollow, you'd be better off starting with separate pieces and gluing them together to form a box or tube. You could either start with 4 pieces and glue together at right angles (with or without machined or half-lapped joints) or you could have two half pieces and groove them out in the centre to create U-shaped channels, which you'd then glue together like [ ] to create a box or tube section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T17:01:02.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="879" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="880" CreationDate="2015-04-09T19:05:52.273" Score="12" ViewCount="921" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got 3M Power Tool Respirator (&lt;a href=&quot;http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_EU/PPE_SafetySolutions_EU/Safety/Product_Catalogue/~/3M-Particulate-Respirators-8000-Series?N=7576197%203294470417%203294857473&amp;amp;rt=rud&quot;&gt;product page&lt;/a&gt;). It has a sander tool icon on the cover yet it reads &quot;Do not use for hardwoods&quot;. From the wikipedia it seems as hardwood refers to all kinds of trees except conifers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did I understand this right? Doesn't this mask gets quite useless if this can be used only on conifers? I am about to sand some older wood pieces that might be hardwood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T12:31:19.750" Title="Respirator: do not use for hardwoods?" Tags="|safety|sanding|hardwood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="879" CreationDate="2015-04-09T19:09:37.220" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fact that there is any warning at all probably has to do with the fact that the mask's rating is only FFP2 and it can only filter &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Respirator#Mechanical_filter_respirators&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;94% of dust particles&lt;/a&gt;, whereas other masks can filter 99% or more. FFP2 also only requires &amp;lt;8% inward leakage, which seems like quite a significant amount of leakage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason the warning specifically mentions hardwoods may have to do with the fact that hardwoods are generally more toxic, as Daniel B. commented. A collection of points from a University of Illinois at Chicago &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.uic.edu/sph/glakes/harts1/HARTS_library/woodhazards.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;paper&lt;/a&gt; state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Contact with the dust of many hardwoods can cause conjunctivitis (eye inflammation), hay fever, asthma, coughing, and other respiratory diseases.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Some hardwoods can cause hypersensitivity pneumonia (alveolitis), and frequent attacks can cause permanent lung scarring (fibrosis).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Some hardwoods contain chemicals that are toxic.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Inhalation of hardwood dust is associated with a particular type of nasal and nasal sinus cancer (adenocarcinoma).  This type of cancer has a latency period of 40-45 years, and occurs to the extent of about 7 in 10,000 among woodworkers who are heavily exposed.  This rate is many times higher than the rate of nasal adenocarcinoma in the general population.  Over half of all known cases of this type of cancer are found in woodworkers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet the paper considers softwoods much less hazardous:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Softwoods do not cause as high a frequency of skin and respiratory&#xA;  problems as do hardwoods.  A few individuals can develop allergic&#xA;  reactions to some softwoods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of the higher rate of toxicity among hardwoods, any fine dust is hazardous and can cause respiratory ailments in sufficient quantities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that most disposable masks cannot create as good a seal with your face as reusable respirators with replaceable P100 (or equivalent) filters, which filter 99.97% of particles 0.3 microns or larger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-04-10T00:31:12.720" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T00:31:12.720" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="879" CreationDate="2015-04-09T21:36:43.460" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Masks rated for less than P100 are not recommended for hardwoods since hardwoods produce smaller, finer dust particles than softwoods.  As each tooth cuts the wood, the depth of cut for a hardwood is necessarily smaller (otherwise you overload your motor) and the smaller depth of cut produces fine dust that can pass filters designed only for larger particles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is the same whether sanding, cutting, or performing man other wood operations with hardwood - finer dust is more likely with hardwoods than softwoods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The filter you link to is better suited for construction use where most materials are soft and easy to cut, producing the much larger particles this product is intended to filter and less finer particles it isn't intended to handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="235" LastEditorUserId="235" LastEditDate="2015-04-10T12:31:19.750" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T12:31:19.750" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="882" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="883" CreationDate="2015-04-10T01:17:06.063" Score="13" ViewCount="5747" Body="&lt;p&gt;I never really thought about it until after reading some of the questions in this forum. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the difference between hardwood and softwood. To clarify I am not interested in their applications but understanding where it comes from and &#xA;how it is classified. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-06-19T01:20:57.563" LastActivityDate="2018-02-15T15:46:18.650" Title="What is the difference between hardwood and softwood?" Tags="|wood-identification|hardwood|wood|softwood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="882" CreationDate="2015-04-10T01:17:06.063" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hardwood is usually from a deciduous tree and softwood is usually from a coniferous one.  Hardwoods typically have a higher density (hence hardwood).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Seriously?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the most part that is the &lt;em&gt;general&lt;/em&gt; accepted (although broad) definition and yes there are several exceptions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Little more than that please&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much like identifying wood species; determining if a particular wood is soft or hard depends on the kind of tree it came from.  More specifically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hardwood&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comes from &lt;em&gt;dicot angiosperm&lt;/em&gt; which mean the tree reproduces with flowers and most have broad leaves that are shed in response to natural climate change or drought. There are several species of evergreen that fit into this category as well. These evergreens are usually located in more tropical/subtropical zones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hardwood trees have large vessels for transporting water. These pores are responsible for the grain appearance in hardwood and are best seen under microscope.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Softwood&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost all softwood comes from &lt;em&gt;gymnosperm&lt;/em&gt; plants such as conifers or also known as coniferous trees. Where hardwood tree use flowers for reproduction softwood trees use seeds, such as cones. Conversely to hardwood, water and sap are transported via &lt;em&gt;medullary rays&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;tracheids&lt;/em&gt; which can appear corrugated (like cardboard).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Comparison&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned before, the best way to be sure is to examine the wood under microscope. In the hardwood you can see the &quot;pores&quot; shown as large holes (In the diagram below it is the picture on top.) Softwood does not have visible pores. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/65/Hard_Soft_Wood.jpg/250px-Hard_Soft_Wood.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wood Under Scope&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Picture comes from &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hardwood&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Notable exceptions&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just because a wood is classified as soft does not mean it is necessarily softer than a hardwood. There is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Janka_hardness_test&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wide range&lt;/a&gt; of hardness when it comes to the &lt;strong&gt;many&lt;/strong&gt; species of trees.&#xA;I mentioned earlier that there are a couple of exceptions as far as the generic hardwood/softwood definition are concerned. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Balsa&lt;/strong&gt;: Is actually a soft hardwood.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yew&lt;/strong&gt;: Is actually a hard softwood.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bamboo&lt;/strong&gt;: Considered a hardwood but classified as a grass.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;More reading&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In trying to keep scientific analysis out of this answer I refer keen readers to other more in depth sources of information. Always remember that the accuracy of Wikipedia should be taken with a grain of salt and cross verified where possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diffen.com/difference/Hardwood_vs_Softwood&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Diffen&lt;/a&gt; for a great article on this subject and related ones.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hardwood&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Always Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;. This one is about hardwood but links to a small softwood one. It is where the picture comes from.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Janka_hardness_test&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Janka Hardness Test&lt;/a&gt; which, from the article: &quot;measures the resistance of a sample of wood to denting and wear&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/hardwood-anatomy/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hardwood Anatomy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/softwood-anatomy/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Softwood Anatomy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_woods&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia Common Timber Wood Classification&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="94" LastEditDate="2018-02-15T15:46:18.650" LastActivityDate="2018-02-15T15:46:18.650" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="884" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="897" CreationDate="2015-04-10T11:45:38.480" Score="19" ViewCount="23712" Body="&lt;p&gt;When learning about different finishes, some resources talk about the finish's drying time, such as this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/p/Zinsser-1-qt-Amber-Shellac-Traditional-Finish-and-Sealer-4-Pack-00704H/202973717?cm_mmc=shopping-_-googleads-_-pla-_-202973717&amp;amp;ci_sku=202973717&amp;amp;ci_gpa=pla&amp;amp;ci_src=17588969&amp;amp;gclid=CjwKEAjw6Z2pBRCmvaXq6d7FjUoSJAAc5LriaLdrvNLiiNgi8p7jYWhVRcAnGsESqYcQWTTlRB1XCRoC-F3w_wcB#product_description&quot;&gt;Zinsser Shellac&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The shellac dries to the touch in 15 minutes and can be re-coated in 45 minutes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whereas others refer to a curing time, like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.realmilkpaint.com/oil.html&quot;&gt;Real Milk Paint Tung Oil&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Pure Tung Oil will take 7 to 10 days for a minimum cure and 15 to 30 days for a full cure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this the same thing? If not, what is the difference? Can the same finish have a curing time &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; a drying time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2019-12-27T19:41:36.367" Title="What is the difference between &quot;curing&quot; and &quot;drying&quot;?" Tags="|finishing|terminology|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="884" CreationDate="2015-04-10T12:19:37.100" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;These terms are sometimes used interchangeably but it's incorrect to do so. Drying is a surface level finish whereby the top coat of your finish is dry to the touch and can usually be overpainted, or walked on etc. It's a much more fragile state than being fully cured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Curing means that the coating is completely through and through set. It is generally a chemical process and means that the coating is bonded to the surface or the material is in it's full finished state. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="378" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T12:19:37.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="884" CreationDate="2015-04-10T14:58:16.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a difference between drying and curing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drying is essentially the solvent evaporating from the coating. It is the time taken at which the coat can be touched. But other activities like washing can destroy the coating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Curing is when the coat has reached proper hardness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example : oil paint takes 4-8 hours to dry while it takes 7-10 days to cure. Usually curing occurs due to some chemical process like oxidation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So every coat will have a drying time and a curing time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="379" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T14:58:16.900" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="884" CreationDate="2015-04-10T15:10:48.800" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drying&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Drying&lt;/a&gt; is the process of a solvent being removed from a finish by evaporation. For example, water in acrylics or alcohol in shellac. Typically drying processes can be reversed by adding the solvent back to the dried composition, being a physical change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Curing_%28chemistry%29&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Curing&lt;/a&gt; is the process of some chemical reaction finishing (where the polymers become cross-linked thus harder). Examples would be two part epoxy, oil paints or tung oil. Some are reacting with the oxygen in the air (like tung oil) and others with mixed components (like epoxy, or silicon molds components). Cured processes are generally not simply reversible, being a chemical change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2015-07-26T14:02:18.890" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T14:02:18.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="874" CreationDate="2015-04-10T20:01:33.150" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a board were to lose its internal stresses by dropping or for any other reason it would take on a new shape and be warped, twisted, curved and in need of reshaping. If you have ever ripped a thin strip from a wide a board and ended up with a something resembling a steam-bent shovel handle, you have witnessed the process of relieving stress in wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T20:01:33.150" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="889" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="890" CreationDate="2015-04-10T20:12:14.350" Score="12" ViewCount="11611" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a top for a small child's table. It is 30&quot; square and I jointed 3 10&quot; wide pine boards to make it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I had it in a vise and was planing the end grain to clean up the marks left by the saw, the vise &quot;let go&quot; and it fell to my garage floor. The middle board suffered a small crack as a result. (The picture is a bit awkward and the angle isn't the best, but the split is on the end. The board is leaning against another one)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see a .25&quot; chisel next to it for size comparison. I tried getting glue [&lt;strong&gt;edit: Titebond II&lt;/strong&gt;] in the crack and using clamps to pull it together, but it is so small I wasn't able to get it in.  What is the best way to repair this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/knNs9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user234" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-04-15T19:06:33.633" LastActivityDate="2019-01-27T03:37:05.233" Title="How can I repair a split in a board?" Tags="|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="889" CreationDate="2015-04-10T20:16:21.630" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Catalog sites or local woodworking stores will likely sell a glue injector- it looks like a big needle. It's most often used to inject glue into chair joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a small screwdriver to open up the crack a bit, then use the injector to get glue in there, then pull the screwdriver and let the crack close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the crack is small, you may not even need to clamp it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, you could also turn the crack into a feature with a dutchman patch (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oldhouseonline.com/how-to-make-a-dutchman-patch/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;instructions&lt;/a&gt;), like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZpBFz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZpBFz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dutchman patch&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image courtesy of woodworkingtalk.com&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was a question about the picture used to describe the Dutchman patch. Related discussion about the Dutchman Patch: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/905/what-is-the-difference-between-a-dutchman-patch-and-a-butterfly-patch&quot;&gt;What is the difference between a dutchman patch and a butterfly patch?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2019-01-27T03:37:05.233" LastActivityDate="2019-01-27T03:37:05.233" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="889" CreationDate="2015-04-10T20:32:38.080" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You didn't mention what type of glue you're trying to use for the repair, but if this is just a minor cosmetic defect it may be a nice application for CA (cyanoacrylate) glue, aka superglue. It's thinner than wood glue so it'll be easier to get it to seep into the crack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use compressed air to blow the glue into the crack, or if the crack goes all the way through you can use a vacuum to pull it into the crack from the other side.  As with TX Turner's glue injector suggestion, it will help if you can bend or pry the crack slightly more open so it's easier to get the glue in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other options include breaking or cutting the board all the way through and gluing it back together, or adding an inlay. If you go the inlay route, you could either use a butterfly inlay to strengthen the repair or if it's a really shallow crack, you could use a purely decorative inlay. Or you could take a page from the turners' playbook--a common solution for repairing cracks in turned pieces is to use a liquid turquoise inlay. If you do this, you'd probably want to carve out a larger channel as you would with the &quot;solid&quot; inlay techniques.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T20:32:38.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="889" CreationDate="2015-04-10T20:47:28.693" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used the very thin CA glues such as this stuff from Titebond in the past.  It works very well.  It is about as thin as water.  If you plan on finishing the surface with a stain, you should probably test it first on a scrap to make sure it won't blotch.  Ripping down the crack and re-gluing works well also, but you lose some width from the board.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ejbDH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T20:47:28.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="707" CreationDate="2015-04-10T20:53:10.793" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Notice how many of the answers include the word &quot;router&quot; :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can lose as much on each end as the thickness, a box joint works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one or the other side isn't visible, a board alongside the joint works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't lose &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; length, and need &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt; sides visible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well... I think what I might do is a really thick spline...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is, basically, cut a slot in each end, and add a strong piece between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because I have a router table.  If I didn't, dowels need only a drill...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any kind of finger or lap or scarf loses some length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the spline or dowels are additional pieces, they don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But... the old joke: &quot;doctor it hurts when I do this&quot; &quot;don't do that&quot; applies.&#xA;This joint is best avoided :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T20:53:10.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="884" CreationDate="2015-04-11T00:10:35.797" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Answering from a technical painter's point of view. Let's start with a new concept called the recoat window. For example say that you are going to put two part urethane over two part epoxy (a common application). When epoxy is fully cured It may be difficult to get the urethane to stick (or at least stick as well as it should) so you want to put the urethane on before the epoxy is cured. But on the other hand If you put the urethane on over wet epoxy it will run. Therefore you want to wait until the epoxy is tack free (dry) but not cured before putting the topcoat on. This is the basic idea of the recoat window. (there are exceptions, but the idea is sound)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="277" LastActivityDate="2015-04-11T00:10:35.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="895" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-11T01:50:26.167" Score="6" ViewCount="787" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a Swampscott Dory as per &quot;The Dory Book&quot; by John Gardner.&#xA;What I am doing is using local wood (Red Cedar) and mills.  As such, I am starting from the log, milling it, and then making my boat.  Question is, how long should I wait for my planks to dry before placing them on the boat.  I am not using glue (all copper clench nails and wood screws) and all the wood is cut to my liking (quarter sawn).  So how long should I wait from mill to boat?  Log has been sitting out for about a year, but it was a 23&quot; diameter log.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="383" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T03:00:37.290" Title="Using green cedar for planks on a boat" Tags="|lumber|green-wood|making-lumber|wood-drying|boat-building|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="895" CreationDate="2015-04-11T02:20:10.600" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was trying to find the answer to something else and realized there was a section in this book called, &lt;em&gt;Modern Woodworking Techniques&lt;/em&gt;. It is a conglomeration of articles from the magazine &lt;em&gt;Fine Woodworking&lt;/em&gt;. On page 124, they talk about drying your wood. It says that the &quot;old-timers&quot; rule of thumb is a year of air drying per inch of thickness, but ultimately you'll need to use a moisture meter to periodically test a sample board. Air drying will get you down to about 12% moisture content, unless you live in a very dry climate. For that matter, things like humidity, temperature, drying set-up (how you arrange your wood), and thickness has the most bearing on how fast your wood will dry. In other words, there is no set drying time ... it will take what it will take. There is no &lt;em&gt;real&lt;/em&gt; way for us to give you a speculative answer as to how long it's going to take. You'll need to get a meter to tell you what the moisture content is and go from there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2015-04-11T02:20:10.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="884" CreationDate="2015-04-11T10:57:53.090" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;While it's correct to say these terms can be used interchangeably they should not, the meanings when used technically are quite distinct. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem begins with the word drying being overused in product descriptions for paints and other coatings; that is, &quot;drying&quot; is used loosely and therefore will always be inaccurate in some instances. But the concept of paint or varnish &quot;drying&quot; as a catch-all for any process of hardening is far too entrenched to change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drying literally means &lt;em&gt;drying&lt;/em&gt;, an actual drying process where at the simplest water is lost by evaporation. For other coatings it is merely a different solvent (or mixture of solvents) that is evaporating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Curing on the other hand is less of a populist term and should have its correct use maintained so as not to muddy the understanding of its meaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most paints and varnishes, as well as many lacquers, undergo both drying and curing processes. Drying is the initial phase, where the coating shrinks due to the loss of the solvent component. Curing is the second (usually &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; longer) phase where the coating changes physically and/or chemically; it may swell slightly during this process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where there is a chemical change during curing it can be components within the coating combining and reacting, or a reaction with oxygen (or water) from the atmosphere. An example of the latter occurs with oils such as linseed oil and tung oil, which undergo oxidative polymerisation, changing from oils into a type of natural polymer by reacting with oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where a coating &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; has a drying process, such as with watercolour paint or shellac, it is chemically unchanged and therefore remains soluble in the original solvent. This is why even decades later watercolours are water-soluble, and why shellac can be re-dissolved in alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a coating cures its chemistry changes from that of its original liquid form, so that for example a paint that was soluble in mineral spirits (white spirit in the UK) at the time of application will, after curing, no longer be soluble in it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-04-11T10:57:53.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="898" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="899" CreationDate="2015-04-11T20:53:43.193" Score="10" ViewCount="1036" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend and I are endeavoring to create our own gaming table. With little to no experience working with wood other than youtube videos and the occasional side project, we come to you in need of help! &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/79ih1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; you can see my schematic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/79ih1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/79ih1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;my drawing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The features it includes are&lt;/strong&gt;:    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 ft slotted shelf   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 1.5ft drawers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shelving units below  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;removable 4x6ft felt piece&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I have the following questions regarding the project:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For the shelving units below the table surface, how do I connect the shelves to the legs? Screws that are longer than 4&quot; and some wood glue? Routing out a slot to shove that thing into? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do you see anything wrong with my initial draft? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are we in over our heads?!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="387" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2015-04-12T00:16:33.827" LastActivityDate="2015-04-12T03:46:44.877" Title="Creating my first wooden gaming table" Tags="|furniture|design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="898" CreationDate="2015-04-11T22:15:26.647" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let me answer your questions in reverse order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are we in over our heads?!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, you're not in over your heads. You can do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do you see anything wrong with my initial draft?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At a glance only a few things concern me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How will you move this to where it needs to be once it's built, and will it ever need to be moved again? You may want the table to break down if it will ever need to go through a doorway, up or down steps, or to a different location. For example, if you use the pictured design for the leg shelves, I would make the shelves removable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm not familiar with game tables but where do people's legs go when they are sitting at the table? It seems like the shelves attached to the legs will be in the way all the way around the table, except for one person on each side whose legs will fit between the board game shelving and the other shelf. I presume the extendable shelf that slides out from the top of the table will give the people on that side some leg room, but it isn't clear that every side has an extendable tabletop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consider what will happen if someone leans on the extendable shelf/tabletop. Will it break its wooden or metal drawer slides, or the slot that houses it? Could the shelf itself flex or break?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For the shelving units below the table surface, how do I connect the shelves to the legs? Screws that are longer than 4&quot; and some wood glue? Routing out a slot to shove that thing into?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can certainly route a dado to help register each shelf and create more glue surface. Wood glue will certainly strengthen the joints but you may want to either run the shelves' other legs all the way up to the table frame/apron, or make the shelf removable in case you need to move it at some point in the future. If you want the shelves to be removable, you probably don't want to glue them to the legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use long screws that go through the legs and into the end of the shelves but personally I would use a different type of fastening method, especially if the shelves are made from plywood or MDF. (Also keep in mind you'll need fairly deep countersink or you'll need longer than 4&quot; screws if your legs are actually 4&quot;x4&quot; as shown in your diagram.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some of the alternatives I think you should consider for attaching the shelves to the legs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dowels, simply clamping or strapping the parts together while the glue dries (if you plan on permanent attachment with glue)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill pocket screw holes into the bottoms of the shelves and use pocket screws to fasten the shelves to the legs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use knock-down fasteners like what you get when you buy a particle board or MDF piece of furniture from the store.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attach cleats to the sides of the legs, then fasten each shelf on top of a cleat. You can use screws, glue, nails dowels, or whatever attachment method you prefer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/5-surface-mounted-bed-rail-brackets&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bed rail brackets&lt;/a&gt; (or similar hardware) to attach the shelves to the legs. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f9ENC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-04-11T23:00:56.107" LastActivityDate="2015-04-11T23:00:56.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="900" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-12T01:03:28.450" Score="14" ViewCount="23347" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read several times now that, if not disposed of in a &lt;em&gt;proper&lt;/em&gt; manner, rags covered in Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) can combust. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that regard I have some related questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Under what condition, if any, can I reuse the rags?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the process for prepping these rags for safe disposal?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once that is done can they just be thrown in the trash or is it considered a hazard still?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was looking for environmentally friendly finishes and by name I though this was just another oil. I just want to be sure i'm doing this right. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-04-12T02:26:14.813" LastActivityDate="2015-04-12T08:07:57.277" Title="How can I properly dispose of rags used with Boiled Linseed Oil" Tags="|finishing|safety|clean-up|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="900" CreationDate="2015-04-12T01:31:42.960" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Under what condition, if any, can I reuse the rags?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just throw my finishing rags away after using them; I can't think of any case in which you'd want to reuse them. It would probably cost more to try to clean them than it would to get a new rag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is the process for prepping these rags for safe disposal?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spread each one out flat to dry on the concrete or on a cinder block and weigh it down so it doesn't blow away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason finishing rags can combust is that the curing/oxidation process of the oil produces heat. If the rags are wadded up, the heat can build up until the oily rags ignite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Once that is done can they just be thrown in the trash or is it considered a hazard still?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, once they're completely dry you can throw them in the trash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-04-12T07:04:56.480" LastActivityDate="2015-04-12T07:04:56.480" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="898" CreationDate="2015-04-12T03:46:44.877" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let me preface this by saying that you should check out Sketchup, it's free :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The overall table isn't bad, per se. I'm concerned about your shelf construction. If they're not detachable, they're going to be a weak point when you move the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would make a few suggestions ...&#xA;If it's possible, make the bottom one large shelf rather than splitting it into two pieces. If it is two pieces as it appears to be, then you might consider some options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add two more legs offset toward the center to act as support for the shelves. These could have ledges cut to rest shelves on, or hardware as rob recommended(I would use the hardware)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this way you will be able to make each side of the table adjustable, and you can add in shelves as necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll also need some support for your slotted shelves. The further in they go, the more support they'll have.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Below are two possibilities.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;On the left, there are raised rails which push against the top of the frame and the shelf is extended further in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the right, the rails are offset, which allows them to be longer. both of these hinge on using the rail as a stop, to keep it from sliding out. If you want them to be able to slide out, attach the rails to the table rather than the shelves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would lean toward the left option since it would give more support to the rail. You will also want to reinforce the mouth of the slot, it's the fulcrum of &quot;the lever&quot;, and will take the all of the downward pressure being applied.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Leave 1/16 inch above and on the sides of the shelf to allow for wood expanding.&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zF9J7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastActivityDate="2015-04-12T03:46:44.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="900" CreationDate="2015-04-12T08:07:57.277" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Under what condition, if any, can I reuse the rags?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Few people bother but you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; wash them, just as with any oily cloth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's probably best collected enough to make it worth doing a wash so store them wet (see next point). If you add some washing soda to the water you store the rags in it'll act as a pre-soak. Then either handwash or put into the washing machine on a hot cycle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not mix these rags with other laundry. It might be safe but it might not and you can't know in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is the process for prepping these rags for safe disposal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's more than one method. The simplest and perhaps safest is just to lay them on the ground (although many woodworkers will drape them over the back of a chair or something like that which is probably just as safe). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not crumpled up the heat generated by the oxidation of the oil can't rise to the level needed to start combustion in cloth or paper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another is to store them inside a metal or glass container filled with water. I have a mayo jar near where I do my finishing. When full you just dispose of it with your household refuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also burn them. Few people do this these days for obvious reasons. But it was one of the standard ways of disposing of them in the old days, often in the shop's wood-burning stove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once that is done can they just be thrown in the trash or is it considered a hazard still?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes it's OK to throw dried rags and paper into the trash. They are no more a risk than printed magazines at that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And just like with paper you can also compost them. Even dry the BLO is still a natural organic material and it'll be broken down by the same micro-organisms that can break down hardwoods for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-04-12T08:07:57.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="889" CreationDate="2015-04-12T08:29:51.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;it is so small I wasn't able to get [the glue] in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diluting slightly can help with this, then a fine brush will usually work for application. You can also work the thinned glue in with the tip of a cocktail stick or bamboo skewer. The best method though is to inject the glue deeper into the crack with a hypodermic needle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be honest I would probably just fill this myself because it's so fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simplest method is to get glue into the crack and then just sand the piece lightly to mix sanding dust with the glue. One pass might be enough here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although glue + sanding dust is rarely a good colour match to the wood despite what many guides say (it's nearly always darker) for a crack this fine you'll never see it on the finished item. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either glueing or filling you will inevitably get some glue onto the surface of the board. Once the glue has had a chance to fully dry sand further (or better, use a card scraper) to remove the surface fibres contaminated with adhesive. Check for any remaining glue by dampening the area with spirits, if you see no pale stain where the glue was you've gotten it all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the vise &quot;let go&quot; and it fell to my garage floor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To prevent this in future, consider lining your vice's jaws with leather. It works very well, greatly improves grip while simultaneously reduces the tendency to mar the workpiece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-04-12T08:29:51.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="905" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="911" CreationDate="2015-04-12T19:56:47.283" Score="13" ViewCount="12785" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/889/how-can-i-repair-a-split-in-a-board&quot;&gt;How can I repair a split in a board?&lt;/a&gt;, the accepted response suggests a &quot;dutchman patch,&quot; but I'm getting mixed messages from various sources. Some show a dutchman as being the removal of damaged material and insertion of a patch of the same size. Others seem to specifically be a bowtie/butterfly shape reinforcing a crack in wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, both of these images are being referred to as dutchman patches:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JFF6R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rectangular patch&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://makezine.com/projects/dutchman-wood-repair/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://makezine.com/projects/dutchman-wood-repair/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4tdJJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hourglass-shaped patch&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f5/pre-dovetail-butterfly-dutchman-joints-question-36119/#post306942&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f5/pre-dovetail-butterfly-dutchman-joints-question-36119/#post306942&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So which is it? Is there a difference between a dutchman patch and a butterfly patch? Is this just a case of the same phrase meaning two different things?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is a dutchman a general term and the buttefly specifically that &lt;em&gt;shape&lt;/em&gt; of dutchman?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T19:07:04.350" Title="What is the difference between a dutchman patch and a butterfly patch?" Tags="|joinery|terminology|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="905" CreationDate="2015-04-12T20:30:52.783" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;A dutchman patch is basically using wood to fill a void larger than can be done with filler alone.  A butterfly patch is typically used to prevent a check from getting larger, or to reinforce a joint.  You could consider a butterfly patch to be a specific case of a more general dutchman patch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-04-12T20:30:52.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="908" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="910" CreationDate="2015-04-12T23:44:24.150" Score="18" ViewCount="5904" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that wood movement is an issue, but it's a bit vague for me where I should be concerned with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://workshopcompanion.com/KnowHow/Design/Nature_of_Wood/2_Wood_Movement/2_Wood_Movement.htm&quot;&gt;This page&lt;/a&gt; Suggests that there is almost no movement in the longitudinal direction, but that there is significant movement in radial and tangential directions respective to the grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there particular orientations which I should avoid, e.g. radial in one piece in a plane with tangential of another?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With what orientations is it safe to use screws without hardware that would allow movement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="180" LastEditDate="2015-04-13T03:52:05.433" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T22:08:53.457" Title="What general considerations do I need to take into account for wood movement?" Tags="|wood-movement|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="908" CreationDate="2015-04-13T01:36:35.320" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lets use a worse case scenario.  A table top 30&quot; wide made from flat-sawn wood connected to a cross brace (so the grains of the two pieces run perpendicular).  If you look at how table tops are connected, they are usually just attached in the middle, allowing the top to expand to each side.  In this case, the table could expand or contract up to 3/8 inch in total width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a best case, you have a 4 sided box.  Even though the sides will expand and contract, they should all change the same amount at the same rate, so the joinery can be tight.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood moves more in areas that are cold and dry in the winter then hot and humid in the summer, than in areas that are relatively consistent year around.  Items stored in a climate controlled house won't see nearly as much movement as others.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can minimize the effects of wood movement by choosing quartersawn and rift-sawn boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T01:36:35.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="908" CreationDate="2015-04-13T08:19:49.360" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;That page you link to is correct, wood movement is almost completely across the grain. Longitudinal or long-grain movement is so slight it can nearly always be ignored. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to note, we must remember movement is both expansion and contraction, which typically happens seasonally:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c9U3q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Seasonal wood movement&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously there are specific instances where movement cannot be accurately predicted. Where the grain shifts direction, as much as 90° within the same board (e.g. wood taken from various crotches within the tree) and particularly where there is wildly changing grain (e.g. in a burr or burl).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are there particular orientations which I should avoid, e.g. radial in one piece in a plane with tangential of another?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the standard cross-grain situation you want to try to avoid where possible. So the answer is basically yes but it's complex because you can't avoid it in many cases. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where you have no choice but to make a cross-grain join, you must build in some means to allow for movement, for example by fixing loosely as with various tabletop fasteners, fixing at one end of the joint only or allowing something to float within a groove or rebate (US: rabbet), as in the floating panel in frame-and-panel construction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you take these sort of steps to avoid an issue you can take it that something &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; happen, not that it &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;With what orientations is it safe to use screws without hardware that would allow movement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That depends for a start on how you define hardware. The standard 'buttons' used to attach tabletops and allow movement are wood, and are made by the woodworker, but are technically hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than think about the orientations it is safe to use screws visualise the expansion and contraction of the wood and how you allow this to happen after fixing. So essentially screws could be safe in any joint they can be used in, as long as they're utilised appropriately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good example is the top to any table, which typically will be cross-grain to some portion of the underframe or apron assembly. One standard way is to fix firmly in the centre and allow the front and back edges to move. Where you want an edge to remain fixed relative to the piece (e.g. a table intended to go flush against the wall) you fix firmly there and allow movement to occur out from that edge:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T9jnZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Allowance for tabletop wood movement&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Screws are used here both for the points where firm fixing is desired as well as where movement is being allowed for, by screwing directly into the tabletop through the apron and through some form of movable fixing/fastener respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T08:19:49.360" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="905" CreationDate="2015-04-13T08:29:56.700" Score="11" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So which is it? Is there a difference between a dutchman patch and a butterfly patch? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes and no. A Dutchman can be the shape of a butterfly (also called a bowtie) as well as many other shapes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But a butterfly &lt;em&gt;in modern usage&lt;/em&gt; typically means a wooden fixing to secure or stabilise a crack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is yet another example (of many!) of terminology being used loosely or irregularly in woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: Dutchmen patches are usually thin, and can in fact be made from veneer, butterflies or bowties are typically thick because of their structural requirement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T08:29:56.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="912" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="913" CreationDate="2015-04-13T11:49:56.517" Score="19" ViewCount="51810" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a nice cordless drill that came with two rechargeable batteries. However, there are times when life gets in the way and I'm not using the drill at all over the course of several months. When I return to the drill, both of the batteries have died.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should I store the batteries when they are not going to be used for several months? Is there a way to do so such that they'll have a charge when I need them next? Are there any steps I should be taking when storing the batteries so lengthen their overall lifetime?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-16T14:09:07.597" LastActivityDate="2018-07-31T20:33:51.513" Title="How should I store the batteries of my cordless drill?" Tags="|tools|power-tools|tool-maintenance|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="912" CreationDate="2015-04-13T12:36:11.827" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Batteries in general have several points worth concerning their usage. Yes, you are asking about storage but it is worth knowing that their storage strategy is influence by their usage frequency as well. &lt;strong&gt;Which type you have is important&lt;/strong&gt;. There is not one &lt;em&gt;overall&lt;/em&gt; method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Li-Ion (Lithium Ion)&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like most batteries they should be stored at room temperate and not in direct sunlight. Some sources mention that storing it slightly warmer can help it perform better but the consensus is storing it at &lt;strong&gt;15°C&lt;/strong&gt; (59°F) is ideal. A dry area is also an important factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general we are advised to store the battery in a partial discharge state. Storing the battery in either a fully charged or discharged state can actually harm the battery. Most manufacturers recommend storing these batteries in a 30-40% charge level. Charge level can be &lt;a href=&quot;http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_lithium_ion_batteries&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;determined usually by battery temperature&lt;/a&gt;. The better you take care of it the longer it will last. I don't see myself ever testing the charge level but since I use my drill a lot I get a feel for when its getting down in charge since it starts to lose its torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above tactic is sound but it is important to fully discharge the battery every 30 or so cycles of use to reset the batteries &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.batteryeducation.com/2008/08/digital-memory.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Digital Memory&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The digital memory effect is a failure mode whose effect results in the transmission of improper calibrations of the battery’s fuel gauge to a device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To that effect the article goes on to say that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To correct the digital memory effect and properly re-calibrate the fuel gauge circuitry simply do a full cycle discharge/recharge every several dozen charges. There is no real hard number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;NiCd/NiCad (Nickel-Cadmium)&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar temperature and moisture suggestions exist for NiCd in that they should be stored in a cool and dry location. Between −20 °C and 45 °C (-4°F - 113°F) is recommended but I have seen several sites suggesting that freezing should be avoided ( Guessing mostly due to potential ice crystal build up. This could be avoided by putting the battery in an air tight bag.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The batteries themselves should be stored either fully charged or fully discharged. Note that they have a higher discharge rate when compared to Li-Ion batteries but are not permanently affected by this discharge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you plan on storing these batteries long term (more than a couple of months) it is important to &lt;a href=&quot;http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_restore_nickel_based_batteries&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;use them periodically to prevent crystals from forming&lt;/a&gt; and shorting the cells. The crystals can lower battery performance and the extreme one can cause damage that is irreversible. While modern NiCd's don't have a true internal memory problem, the crystal formation factor can effect the battery in a &lt;em&gt;similar&lt;/em&gt; way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;NiMH (Nickel Metal Hydride)&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on what you read these batteries had a rough start when used for power tools. They have been getting better but were not as widely accepted until more recently due to their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2007/03/making-the-power-tool-battery-decision-nimh-vs-nicad-vs-li-ion&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;disadvantages&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as temperature and periodic use the NiMH and NiCd have the same approach. The important difference is that NiMH have the highest discharge rate and it is more important to periodically use it to prevent damage. Some people have made special cradles to allow a trickle charge to prevent this effect although that is more for your standard AA,AAA batteries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Refer to your manual&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you still have it there could be more specific instructions included with your device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Awesome resource&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been reading a lot about this and this website has information that covers a broad overview and more in-depth coverage of batteries if you so chose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://batteryuniversity.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Battery University&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disclaimer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a lot of information about this topic and would be hard to put it all here. My hope is that, if nothing else, we get a general idea of how to store the batteries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T16:14:02.267" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="912" CreationDate="2015-04-13T16:20:43.617" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When buying my last drill set one of the guys noted that a big drain is storing in the garage. I've kept mine in the house ever since. (all rechargeable batteries)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="105" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T16:20:43.617" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="912" CreationDate="2015-04-13T16:27:45.763" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like your drill has Nickel Cadmium (also called NiCd or NiCad) batteries. This type of battery self-discharges very rapidly and will not hold a charge as long as a Nickel-Metal Hydride (NiMH) or Lithium-based battery (such as Lithium-ion or Lithium-polymer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Matt's answer includes a lot of technical detail on how to best store and maintain your batteries. I won't repeat that information but I will mention a few very noteworthy points regarding each of the three battery technologies commonly used for cordless tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;NiCd is basically worthless when it comes to &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nickel%E2%80%93cadmium_battery#Charging&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;long-term storage&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When not under load or charge, a Ni–Cd battery will self-discharge&#xA;  approximately 10% per month at 20°C, ranging up to 20% per month at&#xA;  higher temperatures. It is possible to perform a trickle charge at&#xA;  current levels just high enough to offset this discharge rate; to keep&#xA;  a battery fully charged. However, if the battery is going to be stored&#xA;  unused for a long period of time, it should be discharged down to at&#xA;  most 40% of capacity (some manufacturers recommend fully discharging&#xA;  and even short-circuiting once fully discharged), and stored in a&#xA;  cool, dry environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You'll get more recharge cycles out of Lithium-ion (Li-ion) batteries if you recharge them once they drop to 20% capacity, and as Matt mentioned, you should store them at 30-40% charge.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;NiMH batteries for tools are not very common in the US. Older NiMH technology had an internal discharge rate of about 3% per month, which is better than NiCd but not as good as Li-ion. Newer NiMH batteries have a very low internal discharge rate and can retain a charge better during long-term storage.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What does this mean in practical, real-world terms?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All this talk about storing batteries at 40% charge or topping off Li-ion batteries at 20% charge is almost purely academic for various reasons. You can have the best intentions of following the guidelines, but it's a pain in the neck to try to adapt your own behavior to suit the battery technology. The best advice I can give is to just buy a battery technology that doesn't require a babysitter. In the US, that's probably Li-ion. Outside the US, it may be Li-ion or NiMH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you said in your question, &quot;there are times when life gets in the way....&quot; Unless you're able to dedicate significant time to woodworking on an ongoing basis, you may not know when you'll use a tool again so it's impossible to know whether you should prep your batteries for long-term storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some batteries or tools do have integrated meters which show you the battery's current charge level. One of my Li-ion drills has a 3-bar indicator but it isn't particularly accurate--by the time the tool reaches 1 bar, the battery is practically dead. If your tools or batteries don't have accurate charge meters or don't have any meters at all, good luck figuring out if you're charging your batteries at the right time or storing your batteries at the optimal storage capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've owned drills and other types of devices with both types of batteries that are common in the US, NiCd and Li-ion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every time I've gone to use my NiCd drill, it has been dead or it didn't last long enough to finish the job. I basically had to charge it every time I wanted to use it, and that takes several hours. Usually I would end up with an unplanned window of time during which I want to get something done, and that window of availability was used up just waiting for the battery to charge. When I did get to use the drill, I sometimes would deplete one battery and put it on the charger while I switched to the other battery and continued working. By the time I drained the second battery, the first one was still barely charged. Granted, there are more advanced NiCd batteries and chargers that allow for faster charging, but they are not always available for a given line of cordless tools. If they are available, they often aren't included and have to be purchased separately--in which case, you perhaps could have just chosen a more hassle-free type of battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In contrast, when I go to use my Li-ion drill, the battery loaded in it is always ready to go and has at least some charge, and the second battery is ready to go as soon as the first one runs out of juice. The batteries only take about 30 minutes to charge and last a long time. As soon as the first one is drained, I can put it on the charger and I know it'll be fully-charged by the time the second one runs out of juice. I've had the drill (and batteries) for several years now and haven't noticed any degradation of the batteries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Summary&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In just a few words, NiCd batteries require a lot of babysitting, NiMH batteries are better, and Li-ion are the lowest-maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No batteries do very well in extreme heat or extreme cold. During the summer, I store my batteries in my garage shop and try not to leave them in my car if I need to take them elsewhere. If your shop gets extremely hot, you may want to store your batteries someplace cooler. During the winter, I store my batteries inside my house and don't leave them in the garage or in my car to prevent them from freezing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use your tools every day or even every week, NiCd might work for you. If you regularly go more than a month without using your tools, it's probably safe to say you sometimes go several months without using your tools, and you'd often need to charge your NiCd batteries before you can use them. In that case, you're probably best served by Li-ion or NiMH batteries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fortunately, many lines of tools now offer compatible batteries in both NiCd and Li-ion types. If you already have a tool with NiCd batteries but NiCd is not suitable for your work patterns, you may be able to &quot;upgrade&quot; to a Li-ion battery by buying a compatible replacement Li-ion battery (and Li-ion charger), or by buying a new tool whose batteries are compatible with your existing tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-04-13T20:15:59.993" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T20:15:59.993" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="916" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="917" CreationDate="2015-04-13T22:08:12.507" Score="12" ViewCount="1230" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may just be the species that are normally used for this purpose, but dimensional lumber such as studs, 2x6, 2x12, etc. works differently than any other wood I've used. It requires more effort to handplane and never develops a smooth surface. I encounter more pitch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the cause of this? Is it harvested during a different season? Dried more/less?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="81" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T00:48:41.543" Title="Is dimensional lumber kiln-dried differently than a kiln-dried board meant for woodworking?" Tags="|lumber|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="916" CreationDate="2015-04-13T22:55:40.050" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're asking the right questions but before you blame the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mcilvain.com/lumber-drying-process/&quot;&gt;drying process&lt;/a&gt; or harvest season, make sure you're comparing apples to apples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You didn't mention what type of wood you're using when you buy dimensional lumber vs. rough lumber, but the type of wood may be a large factor. For example, Douglas fir, which is commonly sold as studs and dimensional lumber in some regions, does not hand plane as smoothly as hardwoods such as oak and walnut. A sharp blade will plane all three pretty well, but hand planing oak is like hand planing butter compared to hand planing Douglas fir. Generally-speaking, softwoods like those typically used to manufacture 2x4s are typically more resinous than hardwoods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting back to your original supposition: yes, it is possible to improperly kiln dry lumber, and this causes case-hardening and can have cosmetic implications, as well, as mentioned in an article from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/drying-wood-at-home/&quot;&gt;The Wood Database&lt;/a&gt;. Moisture content can also affect how easily you can work the wood. But the type of wood is probably the most important factor in determining how well you'll be able to work a given piece of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-04-13T23:05:42.137" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T23:05:42.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="916" CreationDate="2015-04-14T00:48:41.543" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Additionally, it's how the wood is grown - the spf used for dimensional lumber grows and is grown fast... Look how wide the growth rings are. This contributes a coarseness to the wood in working conditions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as species goes, have you ever tried to smooth out poplar? It can be really nerve-wracking in its ability to resist smoothing and maintain a fuzzy or furry feeling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T00:48:41.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="361" CreationDate="2015-04-14T04:16:08.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did some experimenting the other day and found that yellow glue is easy to color with artist's pigment (a fine colored powder use in frescos etc.).  I can see that there might be situations where coloring the glue might mitigate problems of glueing first.  It depends on the color of the wood.  The wood I use is Guanacaste a very dark wood with black streaks.  In some cases black colored glue might work out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="309" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T04:16:08.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="319" CreationDate="2015-04-14T04:24:35.470" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a bed rail twist on me once.  I tried to wet it and then dry it while it was held flat.  It didn't work.  What did work was kind of embarrassing.  I slipped one end into the hardware on the headboard, rotated the footboard until it would slip into the hardware on the other end, then rotated the footboard back into the normal position.  That is, I used brute force to untwist the board.  It's been fine for years now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="309" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T04:24:35.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="921" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="922" CreationDate="2015-04-14T13:27:24.103" Score="9" ViewCount="1538" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have built a large cabinet with some two columns of drawers. I am using 28&quot; full-extension, 100 pound, side mount drawer slides. I want both columns to have the same spacing on the drawers. The cabinet does not have a face frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kregtool.com/customer-service/contact-us.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kreg&lt;/a&gt; used to sell a jig for this purpose, but it has been discontinued.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YIiuW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastEditorUserId="370" LastEditDate="2015-04-14T17:35:03.803" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T21:57:41.737" Title="What is the best way to install full extension drawer slides in a cabinet?" Tags="|technique|furniture|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="921" CreationDate="2015-04-14T13:56:27.150" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a spacer which is basically just a piece of scrap wood cut to width to make sure they are all the same. And with no face frame I would just add false fronts to the drawers to cover the slides and is also easier then to ensure your gap around them is even. I think I learned of this trick in Fine Woodworking's website, if I find it I will post a link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="189" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T13:56:27.150" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="921" CreationDate="2015-04-14T17:56:52.230" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can't buy the jig; make it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a scrap of wood cut it to length and add a hook, then rip it in half.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that you can clamp it on the drawer to serve as a spacer for one end of the slides and between the slides on the cabinet side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y5LZ3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;(image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://woodgears.ca/dresser/finish_up.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;woodgears.ca&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for ripping the scrap in half is to get 2 blocks with for all intents and purposes the same geometry without needing to be very precise twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T17:56:52.230" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="924" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-14T18:53:31.163" Score="7" ViewCount="10162" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been seeing some contested information about which oil I should use between the two. I found several sites with verbage like this one from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/get-more/tung-oil-debunking-myths&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CanadianWoodworking&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So I started researching and found that the information available about tung oil was often incorrect, conflicting, and/or misleading. Let’s examine and debunk some of the myths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later in that article there is a comparison table for Tung and Boiled Linseed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;General consensus is that Tung Oil is more expensive. Aside from financial aspect what are (if any) functional differences that I should consider when deciding between these 2 oils. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A specific aspect I would like to hear about is the difference in finished appearance and the difference &lt;em&gt;over time&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-04-15T16:36:31.537" LastActivityDate="2017-06-29T17:03:07.217" Title="Using Tung oil over Boiled Linseed Oil" Tags="|finishing|tung-oil|boiled-linseed-oil|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="925" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="926" CreationDate="2015-04-14T19:05:05.943" Score="14" ViewCount="18223" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have half a gallon of Titebond I (yellow PVA glue) that has thickened quite a bit, making it difficult to pour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I thin it? How?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will thinning it have any effect on the glue's strength?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="281" LastActivityDate="2020-11-12T07:26:09.970" Title="Can I thin PVA wood glue that has thickened?" Tags="|glue|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="925" CreationDate="2015-04-14T19:05:05.943" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.titebond.com/news_article/13-09-18/How_to_Store_Your_Wood_Glue_for_Longer_Life.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;According to Titebond&lt;/a&gt; you should first try repeatedly tapping the container on a hard surface to loosen it up. Then you can thin it with water up to 5% of the glue's weight or volume. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding strength, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.titebond.com/frequently_asked_questions.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;they say&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Adding more than 5% water to our glues will decrease the bond strength. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This implies that thinning up to 5% will not decrease the strength of PVA glue. But, because it is simply restoring lost water, rehydrating the glue will not effect strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;However&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.titebond.com/news_article/13-09-18/How_to_Store_Your_Wood_Glue_for_Longer_Life.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;they also say&lt;/a&gt; that if the thinned glue is &quot;stringy or pasty&quot; and doesn't stick to wood, you should throw it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="281" LastEditorUserId="281" LastEditDate="2015-04-15T17:11:27.580" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T17:11:27.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="927" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="936" CreationDate="2015-04-14T19:08:24.623" Score="9" ViewCount="1946" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do understand what the set is but I suppose I have some questions about its purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was watching a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=1&amp;amp;cad=rja&amp;amp;uact=8&amp;amp;ved=0CB8QyCkwAA&amp;amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DUA5DixEaaUo&amp;amp;ei=f2MtVdyuOM6cygS4p4DQDw&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNHJ5tGr45RKYH0E5BpA2OxjI6J--g&amp;amp;sig2=QeiZLdIwVGzHzZ-PttNiNg&amp;amp;bvm=bv.90790515,d.aWw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;video by Paul Sellers&lt;/a&gt; and the focus was sharpening saws. The video was very informative in that regard and towards the end the topic turned to saw setting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He showed, using a tool, how to set a saw. After which he showed how to reduce the set with a hammer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read that having a proper saw set reduces the chance of the saw blade buckling. At the end of the day: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the purpose of a saw set?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would there be a reason to remove it permanently?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-16T14:08:41.260" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T14:08:41.260" Title="What is the purpose of a saw set?" Tags="|hand-saw|tool-maintenance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="924" CreationDate="2015-04-14T19:13:49.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some of the contested information is probably due to manufacturers and woodworkers alike misusing the term 'tung oil' when what they mean is some combination of tung oil and another solvent and/or finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, pure tung oil isn't a great finish on it's own- it doesn't entirely harden, it takes a long time to not be a sticky mess, and it has to be refreshed fairly regularly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, boiled linseed oil (often shortened to 'BLO') is similar, except that it takes a shorter time to cure/dry. I've had good luck combining BLO with sanding sealer and denatured alcohol to make my own wiping finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T19:13:49.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="929" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="935" CreationDate="2015-04-14T19:18:07.487" Score="16" ViewCount="7282" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spalting&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;According to Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Spalting is any form of wood coloration caused by fungi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am most interested in spalted maple, as shown in this image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/elaIe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;spalted maple bowl&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bellforestproducts.com/woodworking-articles/v/(Species%20Spotlight)%20toms-workbench-spalted-maple/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bell Forest Products&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I create spalting artificially? I would like to take either a raw board, or a finished piece, and somehow &quot;spalt&quot; it, under controlled conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="281" LastActivityDate="2019-04-26T13:41:42.670" Title="How can I create artificially spalted wood?" Tags="|technique|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="927" CreationDate="2015-04-14T19:20:12.140" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Setting the teeth has a few benefits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It creates a kerf wider than the body of the blade, which does indeed reduce the chance of a catch / buckle- this is nominally more important in western-style push saws than in japanese-style pull saws. You can stil have a bound blade if there are stresses in the wood that tend to cause the kerf to close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A wider kerf also is less likely to clog with debris.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, teeth set at an angle are slightly more efficient at cutting- slicing rather than scraping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to why you'd want to remove it? A thinner kerf would be my first guess (though that's all it really is.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2015-04-14T19:25:57.543" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T19:25:57.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="931" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-14T19:47:24.890" Score="13" ViewCount="3851" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an older delta model jointer, and I always struggle to get all three knives consistently set at the same height. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried a large magnetic jig that purports to help, but.. it really doesn't- it gets in the way of tightening down the nuts that hold the knife in place, so the knife tends to move when you slide the magnet out of place (or you bump it with the wrench and have to start over.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also tried the distance per rotation thing with a piece of tape and a straight edge, but it becomes hard to keep the front and back side of the blade at the same height that way (they tend to rock in the middle.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have tips or a jig to help keep your planer knives lined up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-16T14:08:23.280" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T02:41:04.203" Title="How do you reliably set all your jointer knives to the same, correct height?" Tags="|jointer|tool-maintenance|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="931" CreationDate="2015-04-14T20:41:45.120" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodgears.ca/jointer/knives.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This article&lt;/a&gt; has a nice tutorial about how to set the jointer knives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It covers 2 styles of heads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First is the style with jackscrews (labeled A in the image):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cAR5D.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With those you can adjust each screw until the blade is set correctly (as with the straightedge method).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second style is the one with pushback springs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NrUPy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With those there should also be a jig you hold against the head that holds the knives at the right height and provides enough space for you to tighten the screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JdOZa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;all images from the linked article&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T20:41:45.120" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="931" CreationDate="2015-04-14T21:50:28.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of tricks for setting these. One I've seen: put a piece of wood across the outfeed table and the head, hand-rotate the head, mark how far the wood was dragged by a single blade, adjust until they all drag it the same distance, repeat for other end of blade, iterate. Or of course you can get a dial indicator. Or build/buy a magnetic jig that holds blade at a known location until you can lock it in. Or ... Haven't tried to compare these so I have no idea about relative accuracy vs hassle vs price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T21:50:28.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="921" CreationDate="2015-04-14T21:57:41.737" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rockler had such a jig in their catalog,  last I checked. Presumably competing woodworking supply stores have something similar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T21:57:41.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="929" CreationDate="2015-04-15T03:25:38.590" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had a good read on this and the best intro I could find comes from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-to/article/spalt-your-own-lumber.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fine WoodWorking&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spalting wood is a lot like growing plants. With the right amounts of food, water, and heat, you should end up with good results, but success is by no means guaranteed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Which wood?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Elitists in spalting don't have a consensus on what wood are good for spalting. Some suggest hardwoods, like maple, so that the process won't soften the piece too much. Other suggest it does not matter. One thing is for sure that all wood can rot. This whole process is based on time and experimentation. You will never end up with the same looking piece twice (hence the allure to spalting).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Stage your environment&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spalting, as mentioned, comes from fungi. Fungi likes to grow in warm and moist conditions. You will need a container that can close but does &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; have a complete seal. Oxygen needs to get in to allow the fungi to grow. Try and fill your container with some soil and humus (dead plant matter) to encourage fungi growth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.reddit.com/r/turning/comments/2xpcuc/spalting_your_own_wood_tips_tricks_and_a_little/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;redditor&lt;/a&gt; suggested adding cold coffee into the mix to raise the PH level to encourage fungus growth as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;The Fungi&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Green wood or fresh timber most likely already have some fungus present so adding more might not be required. Add more anyway can help expedite the process and ensure overall success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible to use wood that is already covered with fungi to put into your container. Sections of fell tree for example. Coming across already spalt&lt;i&gt;ing&lt;/i&gt; wood should be just as easy. In the event you cannot get any (fungi) you can, like &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/users/91/keshlam&quot;&gt;keshlam&lt;/a&gt;  says, purchase spores. Although I don't have any specific suggestions as to where to acquire them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some other suggestions such as simply picking mushrooms. I would suggest if you are going to do that you should refer a guide that has information about mushrooms in your local.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, once you have a source, place it around the container as much as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Adding the wood&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people will allow the fungus to start before putting wood in by waiting serveral weeks. This is an experiment so depending on your environment (temperature and humidity) there is no wrong approach so try and see what works best for you. You can add the wood and fungi at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So that you do not disturb the growth over time it is a great idea to have some smaller test pieces in the mix. That way you can check the overall progress without moving your large/main wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At a minimum get some of the fungus around the end grain of your pieces. Fungi will favor there over the center of your wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;The Waiting Game&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that you have the right conditions for growth it is recommended that you check your container after the first 5-6 weeks. If there is measurable progress then keep checking every 2 weeks after that until the desired effect is found on the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Be careful not to leave the wood in too long&lt;/strong&gt; as the process can penetrate the wood to the point where it is too soft to work. This is why you are checking it periodically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Your Spalted Wood&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it looks like you have a piece that has the right amount of flair from spalting remove it from the container and clean its surface from soil and other debris. Let the wood air dry before you use it. Once dry you can safely work the wood by sanding, planing or turning etc. Once the wood is finished there should be no way for the fungi to continue growing and they would remain in a dormant state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Safety&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The are a number of potential safety concerns when it comes to spalting wood since you are encouraging the grow of fungus which in turn creates spores. Several sites suggest that your bathroom is a good place because of the humidity. While that might not be the best idea, as long as you have good ventilation it should not be harmful. The first link, in references below, contains some good general knowledge concerning your experiment and your safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For spalting, just like all woodworking, &lt;strong&gt;WEAR A MASK&lt;/strong&gt;! If are lucky enough to live in a warm and wet climate: Spalt outside. Also, avoid doing your own spalting if you have respiratory disorders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Good Reference Sources&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/12583/spalt-your-own-lumber-health-problems-associated-with-spalted-wood-and-debunking-myths&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Health problems associated with spalted wood, and debunking myths&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-to/article/spalt-your-own-lumber.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Spalt Your Own Lumber&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T19:01:58.903" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="927" CreationDate="2015-04-15T09:20:14.397" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I read that having a proper saw set reduces the chance of the saw blade buckling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One purpose of set is to reduce the chance of a saw binding in the kerf. This can lead to buckling, but with some saws it would be nearly impossible for them to buckle in use (a quality backsaw for example, due to the added stiffness provided by the sawback). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Saws with no set can also be described as having '0' set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Set is not the only way to help prevent binding. Not used as much today, a saw can be made with a tapered blade: thicker near the cutting edge and slightly thinning towards its back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either method is particularly needed for rip saws, used for cutting along the grain. During ripping cuts pinching of the saw by the wood is common and starts to become more and more likely as the depth of cut increases (especially once the cut depth exceeds the blade height).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: even with set binding can occur so on long rip cuts or when re-sawing by hand it can be necessary to keep the kerf open with a small wedge near the start of the cut:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NBbjQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wedge used to keep kerf open during ripping&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other purpose of saw setting is to improve cutting performance (especially for crosscut saws). In addition to an improvement in the actual cutting done by the teeth, any saw with a flat blade and no set will naturally experience increased friction within the kerf so more effort will be required during sawing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would there be a reason to remove it permanently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is not advisable for general-use saws but can work well for certain specialist applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some specialist saws are manufactured with no set, for example flush-cutting saws. When sawing flat against a piece of wood any set on the teeth will tend to scratch the surface, so no set is very desirable on such a saw. Often the teeth have no set at all, but occasionally will have '0' set on one side only; for this type of saw care must be taken to have the side with set facing upwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also modify a saw for a particular purpose — very fine, &lt;em&gt;shallow&lt;/em&gt;, finished cuts for example. As noted previously binding is increasingly likely as the depth of cut increases, which is why no set can work for shallow cuts that don't exceed the depth of the saw blade (also especially on crosscuts where there is less of a tendency to bind anyway). Regardless of the type of cutting being done, because of the increased friction regular lubrication of the blade with wax is advisable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T09:20:14.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="924" CreationDate="2015-04-15T09:52:08.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you'd notice much, or perhaps &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt;, difference in the finished appearance switching from BLO to tung oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is partly going on general principles, where oils of similar types tend to give similar finish, and partly based on photos of pieces finished in both that I've seen. There's no basic difference that I can perceive. There could of course be a slight difference in colouring but only a direct comparison would highlight this, with wood varying naturally anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as a natural product each oil could vary in colour from maker to maker to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A specific aspect I would like to hear about is the difference in finished appearance and the difference &lt;em&gt;over time&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously you're asking about ageing characteristics here but this is going to partly depend on the wood it is applied to as well as the finishing regimen used (scraped finish or sanded, final grit used, number of coats applied, how much buffing was done and so on). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These variables may have as much to do with differences in reported performance as the different qualities of the oils themselves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main practical difference concerning application is that it takes more coats of tung oil to achieve the same surface gloss as fewer coats of BLO will give (source: Bob Flexner). So it's possible that some of the improved performance accorded to pieces finished with tung oil are due to a higher number of coats, not to the material itself being superior. I'm theorising here, I don't know. I have read numerous times that tung oil is more weather-resistant than BLO I've never read any actual data, and without it I don't believe we can trust that information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: saying tung oil may also be a bit too general. Other than pure, &quot;raw&quot; tung oil there are some modified versions (partially polymerised to improve drying time). Additionally care must be taken to distinguish between actual tung oils and a &quot;tung oil finish&quot; which may contain no tung oil at all; in fact these can be little different to products sold under the name Danish oil (that is: a blend of oil with resin or varnish, with additional spirits).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T09:52:08.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="925" CreationDate="2015-04-15T10:02:41.513" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can I thin it? How?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. Add water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water is nearly all of what has been lost to the glue by evaporation (this is also how PVA-type glues set within a joint, by dehydration).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Will thinning it have any effect on the glue's strength?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. Or at least no if you don't add too much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're not thinning in the conventional sense of reducing it from full strength to a diluted consistency, you're replacing &lt;em&gt;lost&lt;/em&gt; water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you did happen to dilute too heavily all is not lost. The water hasn't in any way damaged the glue, it's just too dilute to be strong enough within a joint to perform properly. All you would then need to do is then let it dry out once more, e.g. by leaving the cap off for some hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a secondary issue however and this is any microbial life you may unintentionally introduce to the glue along with the water. You can get away with using tap water or bottled water, many people have used both and have not had a problem, but it's safer to use distilled water if you can get it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T10:02:41.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="939" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="944" CreationDate="2015-04-15T10:43:20.673" Score="9" ViewCount="682" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to machine a 10x10mm chamfer along the edges of a large quantity of MDF (medium density fibreboard) boards, on an ongoing basis. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Previously I've been using standard tool-steel blades for this on a spindle moulder and have noticed that the blades dull and become too blunt to use effectively very quickly - much more quickly than when using the cutters on hardwood. Generally these cutters will run something like 100 linear metres of a 10x10mm chamfer before they're useless and have to be replaced or resharpened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a better blade material to use for this? I seem to remember I've read that tungsten carbide blades are not great to use on MDF for some reason? Are diamond tipped blades better / more cost-effective in the long run for this purpose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Also before anybody mentions that you're not supposed to use power tools on MDF, I have the proper extraction setup etc. to deal with the hazardous MDF dust/fumes.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-04-15T17:03:10.397" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T17:03:10.397" Title="What type of blades should I use for machining MDF?" Tags="|blade|mdf|board-materials|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="940" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="941" CreationDate="2015-04-15T11:22:23.023" Score="13" ViewCount="8915" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at getting into wood engraving for print, something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5tnpi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT - I've just found out that the person that created this bird recommends birch plywood for beginners. Is this a good starting wood?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I wanted to buy some engraving tools. I know you can get electric engravers but I prefer the look of the manual tools, they have a nicer charm to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a preferred wood type when it comes to engraving?  And would there be softer wood types used for manual tools as it will be harder to engrave over the electric tools?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I'm only getting into engraving for fun I would prefer cheaper wood types if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="406" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-06-19T01:27:23.327" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T10:06:39.043" Title="What wood is best for engraving?" Tags="|wood-selection|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="940" CreationDate="2015-04-15T11:46:35.410" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a bit of a search and a few different places seem to suggest that Boxwood is the best wood for engraving, however I'm sure that there are a number of viable choices, and certainly for beginners who aren't trying to achieve very fine detail then any wood which will hold a good edge (so most moderately dense hardwoods) should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Birch plywood has a huge advantage for a beginner in that it is very cheap! If it's been recommended to you, I'd suggest giving it a try and seeing how you get on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth noting that engraving seems to be done on the end-grain of the timber, presumably as this is where the timber will easily hold fine detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T11:46:35.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="940" CreationDate="2015-04-15T13:24:02.783" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here in the US, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tilia&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Basswood&lt;/a&gt; seems to be preferred.  That is what they use at in the classes at the local Woodcraft.  It is relatively soft and light, but tight grained enough to hold detail well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastEditorUserId="400" LastEditDate="2015-09-24T13:27:54.360" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T13:27:54.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="924" CreationDate="2015-04-15T13:26:58.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used both BLO and Tung Oil. I prefer Tung Oil because its adds a warmth to the wood that BLO does not. I find BLO tends to make the wood look a little muted (at least on Walnut).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I get home, I can take a picture of BLO and Tung Oil side by side. In the mean time, you might want to check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1565235487&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bob Flexner's book&lt;/a&gt;. As I recall, he compares the two side-by-side on several different species. If I remember right, he concludes that BLO tends to darken more than Tung Oil (but TO adds warmth that BLO does not). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T13:26:58.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="939" CreationDate="2015-04-15T13:34:32.297" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;MDF is tough on blades, since it's basically sawdust and glue. You may want to consider trying a blade specifically designed for cutting laminate flooring, since the majority of the material in laminate is usually MDF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Table saw blades designed for this purpose are usually polycrystalline diamond tipped, and have a surprisingly low tooth count (~12-16 for a 10&quot; blade!), but still produce a smooth cut. A bit of Googling yielded PCD router bits that are designed specifically for use on MDF, but I'm not sure if a similar blade is available for a spindle moulder/wood shaper though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind, the diamond tipped blades and cutters will be pretty expensive, but if this is something you'll be doing often, it should pay off in the long run. Otherwise if it's a one time project, you may just want to buy a cheaper blade you can throw away afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastEditorUserId="38" LastEditDate="2015-04-15T14:05:59.913" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T14:05:59.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="889" CreationDate="2015-04-15T13:54:24.980" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When it is that small, you can even get a way with a little wood putty.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another would be to mix a little little sawdust in some epoxy or superglue and 'patch' it, then sand when dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T13:54:24.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="895" CreationDate="2015-04-15T14:09:37.213" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Paulster said, it takes time and the best way to know when you are done is to use a moisture meter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the log did some drying over the course of the year, They dry very slowly compared to boards.  And since you had it cut quarter-sawn the boards are going to be dryer on one side than the other because the end closer to the center will have more moisture.  You would have saved yourself a lot of time having it milled right away, and then waiting for the year or so to let it all dry.  Quite likely you have another year of waiting.  You can of course have it kiln dried and if you find someone with a solar kiln it could take a week or two.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T14:09:37.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="947" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-04-15T15:28:18.630" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many projects can be successfully completed in a wide range of available woods so sometimes the choice is purely an aesthetic one. But some things require woods with specific properties, e.g. hardness to withstand wear, or stiffness to withstand deflection loads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T18:53:42.130" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T18:53:42.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="948" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-04-15T15:28:18.630" Score="0" Body="Questions regarding selection of wood for specific applications or characteristics." OwnerUserId="94" LastEditorUserId="94" LastEditDate="2015-04-15T15:34:39.823" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T15:34:39.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="949" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-04-15T16:46:48.580" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-04-15T16:46:48.580" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T16:46:48.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="950" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-04-15T16:46:48.580" Score="0" Body="Techniques and methods to correct, reduce, and remove damages or faults in both tools and projects. " OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-04-15T17:01:55.603" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T17:01:55.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="951" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-15T18:08:00.757" Score="8" ViewCount="1701" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read that there are only two softwoods that steambend well, Pacific Yew and Alaskan Yellow Cedar. Are there any other softwoods that have steambending properties that are comparable to the aforementioned wood species? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="408" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-06-19T01:26:58.833" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T02:38:42.263" Title="Steambending Softwoods" Tags="|wood-selection|steam-bending|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="929" CreationDate="2015-04-15T18:50:26.620" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Matt has an excellent answer.  However, a much simpler way that I do it is to just leave my hunk of wood out in the yard (or woods) in the rain maybe cover it with some wet leaves nature will take it's course.  With White oak the sap wood will get some cool spalting colors in about a month or so.  This is from fresh wood, not kiln dried, but I don't think the process would take much longer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDT: I think Maple will take a little longer than the 1 month of oak, but the closer the wood is to the size you are going to need, the faster it will happen, More surface area, and less need to penetrate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-15T18:58:49.470" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T18:58:49.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="953" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-04-15T19:36:32.043" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;MDF can look very uniform but varies quite a bit in qualities from the cheapest to the more expensive varieties. It is noted for being dimensionally stable, but having poor resistance to water although moisture-resistant versions (MR-MDF in some markets) are manufactured and there are even some versions that can be used externally. Moisture-resistant versions tend to be coloured to make them easy to distinguish from the normal kind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T20:06:13.360" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T20:06:13.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="954" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-04-15T19:36:32.043" Score="0" Body="Medium-density fiberboard (MDF) is a sawdust/wood particle and glue composite fused with heat and pressure to make a simple sturdy material." OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T20:06:13.360" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T20:06:13.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="940" CreationDate="2015-04-16T01:28:43.547" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the other end of the spectrum, you can try oak too. It's hardness on one hand allows good details,  but it's coarse grain lends carvings a texture that you don't get using other woods. It's certainly not all-purpose, but maybe something to keep in mind. Likewise, a species like mahogany would be a medium - coarseness grain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other good fine grained species are aspens/poples... Similar to basswood if you can't find that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T01:28:43.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="237" CreationDate="2015-04-16T06:10:27.240" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to get the &quot;gap-filling&quot; variety of CA. It's nice and runny and should seep nicely into the void without a lot of coaxing and, of course, as the name suggests, it will fill the gap. Personally, I wouldn't bother with clamping which will just put undue stress on the glue. If this crack had been in the bowl when the turner was making it, he/she would certainly have patched it in this very manner.  It probably developed after the wood continued to age/dry-out after the finish was completed. You are just trying to get something to patch the opening. You can find it at the big name woodworking stores and online.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T06:10:27.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="660" CreationDate="2015-04-16T06:28:52.817" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You didn't say how much work your lathe has seen, but here's what the &lt;a href=&quot;http://content.jettools.com/assets/manuals/708359_man_EN.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;user manual&lt;/a&gt; has to say about the symptoms you mentioned:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Motor or spindle stalls or&#xA;will not start&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Excessive cut. Reduce cut depth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Worn motor. Replace motor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Broken belt. Replace belt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Worn spindle bearings. Replace bearings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Improper cooling on motor. Clean sawdust from motor fan.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Motor fails to develop full power.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Power line overloaded. Correct overload condition.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Undersize wires in supply system. Increase supply wire size.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low voltage. Request voltage check from power company and correct low voltage condition.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Worn motor. Replace motor. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose some of the above may also apply to the inverter--for example, as you suggested, maybe the inverter os overheating and needs to have the dust blown out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the above, the belt could possibly slip and cause low torque and maybe low RPM if it's worn, dirty, and/or not tensioned (also if it's the wrong size belt or if it has stretched).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T06:28:52.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="958" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="963" CreationDate="2015-04-16T14:43:34.057" Score="7" ViewCount="5162" Body="&lt;p&gt;I intend draw a dark line 50mm / 2&quot; large using a blowtorch on a piece of pine wood, but how to have a nice &amp;amp; clean line border ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought of using sacrificial wood pieces or aluminium sheets as flame barrier but honestly I've no idea where to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't need the line to be black but just darker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen a &quot;hot sand&quot; trick but it's effective for edges only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm targeting a rustic style, but I've no metal bars big enough to heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastEditorUserId="35" LastEditDate="2015-04-16T15:25:50.640" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T19:02:15.773" Title="How to scorch to darken a part of a piece of wood and not the other?" Tags="|coloring|burning|drawing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="958" CreationDate="2015-04-16T15:17:42.930" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am assuming you are using the torch to 'scorch' the wood and not really burn it.  I think that clamping another piece of wood as a &quot;sacrificial piece&quot; onto the line should work just fine.  Doing this light enough and you can reuse the one board over and over again.  if it is getting to burnt than run it through the jointer to square it up again.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a hardwood for the boarder piece it will last longer and hold up better, but another piece of pine can work too.  a piece of metal might need to be thicker to work as well so that it doesn't transfer the heat to the wood giving you a wavy line under it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T15:17:42.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="230" CreationDate="2015-04-16T16:51:19.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first rule is, the blade should be sharp. SHARP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then there are some things about plane assembly that you pick up with experience and aren't clearly addressed in the usual instructional resources. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of these relates to runout in the blade adjusting mechanism and play in the blade holding mechanism. Basically, when you re-place the blade on the frog/in the plane, set the blade &quot;pin&quot; in the right groove for the right blade penetration through the mouth. Then place the lever cap on, and tighten it using the cam-lever. That lever should be turned all the way, but you can adjust the force applied using a flathead screwdriver. It should be tight, but you should be able to wiggle around the lever cap using moderate hand pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--&gt; the key here is that if it's too loose, the blade will never sit properly. But if it's too tight your adjustment attempts (laterally) wont do anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As part of this lever cap placement, pull the blade back as far as it will go, then flick the cam lever. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;now, turn the plane over, and adjust the lateral position of the blade so that the blade edge is square to the mouth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, back out the blade, then slowly bring it back in while making test passes on some wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One final note: some woods are prone to tearout no matter what (those with interlocking grain), and a block plane with its low angle of attack only exacerbates the situation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T16:51:19.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26" CreationDate="2015-04-16T17:26:15.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A dull bandsaw blade will tend to move to the side as well. I've never had it move to the point of falling off but that may be something to look at too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="105" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T17:26:15.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="958" CreationDate="2015-04-16T17:46:00.883" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/959/281&quot;&gt;bowlturner's answer&lt;/a&gt; is correct, and will probably give you the results you are looking for. But it inspired me to experiment, mostly to see how sharp an edge I could get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Hardwood Guide&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jwHNl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;wood burning with hardwood guide&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, just setting down a piece of hardwood makes an obvious, if not sharp, line. The main problem is getting into the corner. I tried to only scorch the pine, so I couldn't wait for the flame to burn the inside edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Metal Guide&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0lslu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;wood burning with metal guide&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This time I slowed down and concentrated on getting the flame into the corner. I also used a steel guide, but I didn't see a difference from the hardwood guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, this one is quite well done (burnt), but it does have a sharper edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Masking Tape&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gYbXA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;wood burning with masking tape guide&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not great, but not as bad as I thought. The heat melts off the adhesive and it's easy to burn through the tape a little bit, but it made an okay line. I cleaned off the adhesive with mineral spirits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Routed Recess&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G2KQs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;wood burning with routed recess&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tried routing out a shallow area to receive the burning, with the intention of planing off the high spot. This didn't work though, because it creates another inside edge that the flame can't reach. But if you could somehow get the burned part right up next to a freshly-planed edge, I'm confident that this would give you the cleanest, sharpest edge possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source for all images: me&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="281" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T17:46:00.883" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="958" CreationDate="2015-04-16T17:49:48.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you only need to present a darker wood, but not charred or completely black, aluminum foil or aluminum tape should work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aluminum is great because it conducts heat very well, spreading the heat harmlessly across a larger surface of metal.  wide aluminum tape should give you a very sharp line without the problems that the corners of higher templates present as described in lars' experiments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are careful, masking and other tapes may work as well - the heat goes towards burning the tape and not the wood, protecting the wood underneath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="235" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T17:49:48.320" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="965" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-04-16T18:35:12.813" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tools need maintenance to continue working efficiently and safely. Each tool has different needs and this tag is for questions relating to maintaining them safely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T19:22:40.450" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T19:22:40.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="966" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-04-16T18:35:12.813" Score="0" Body="Maintaining tools, when, how, what." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T19:22:40.450" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T19:22:40.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="967" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-04-16T18:54:40.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of woodworking is to make, repair, finish and refinish furniture.  Whether it's a dining table, an Adirondack chair or a bar stool, used in the home, in the yard or at a business. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T18:25:32.043" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T18:25:32.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="968" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-04-16T18:54:40.790" Score="0" Body="Making, repairing, finishing or refinishing " OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T18:25:32.043" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T18:25:32.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="970" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-04-16T19:35:05.030" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fixing dents, cracks, chips, warps, splinters etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T18:55:10.257" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T18:55:10.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="971" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-04-16T19:35:05.030" Score="0" Body="Fixing items made from wood that has been damaged in some way, shape or form." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T18:55:10.257" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T18:55:10.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="972" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="975" CreationDate="2015-04-16T19:42:33.970" Score="11" ViewCount="6256" Body="&lt;p&gt;So far I have dismantled six pallets, cut the wood into pieces which range from 10&quot; to 19&quot; in length about 1 1/2&quot; wide and are approximately 1/2&quot; thick. My goal is to laminate these pieces together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uaWDc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cut wood so far&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like the wood to be put together on the flat sides (not sure of the correct terminology). I would also like the pieces to be randomly alternating in length. See picture below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Wb5s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Laminated Wood&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will end up being a surface 5' long and 15&quot; deep, for the surface of a media unit. My plan was to basically put them on a flat surface, glue them up and clamp them together. Obviously this is a rough idea and I am looking for some advice before I glue myself to the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, this wood is for the most part straight and square, I have put each piece through a planer enough to remove about 1/4&quot; of material in total from both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-01-31T14:47:21.137" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T14:47:21.137" Title="What is a good method for laminating pallet wood/reclaimed lumber?" Tags="|technique|pallet|reclaimed-wood|laminating|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="972" CreationDate="2015-04-16T20:16:50.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if you realize, but that's going to be one heavy top, at 1.5&quot; thick x 15&quot; deep x 60&quot; long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the how, you can do it in sub-assemblies. Basically, build up some smaller 4 or 5 board length sub-sections, and laminate them together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T20:16:50.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="972" CreationDate="2015-04-16T20:21:46.503" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simplest way is to just glue the boards together.  Making sure all the pieces are square.  You can glue a short piece to a longer piece and then glue the next piece to both of them making it out to the 5' mark. (or maybe a couple to get the full length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a 15&quot; wide planer it makes it easy at the end to run it through to even out the top/bottom.  I have yet to glue boards together so perfect I don't at least have to run a sander over them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To add extra to it, you can use a biscuit joiner to help glue the pieces together and make an even stronger joint, the strength isn't likely needed but it would keep the pieces aligned as you glue them together.  You can also use a finger bit in a shaper or router to glue the boards end to end making them 5' long before gluing the faces together.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the most important part is to align (finish surface) them stagger the joints and clamp them well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T20:21:46.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="972" CreationDate="2015-04-16T21:04:26.907" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My plan was to basically put them on a flat surface, glue them up and clamp them together. Obviously this is a rough idea and I am looking for some advice before I glue myself to the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's nothing essentially wrong with your plan, but there are some minor modifications that will make it go more smoothly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a substantial glued panel like this, made of so many parts, it can be advisable to work in stages. This is because the first glued surfaces can have dried quite a bit by the time you get to the very last glue application at the end, before the clamps are even on much less fully tightened. If this occurs it will lead to a weaker join on the drier joints, no matter how firmly you clamp. So unless you can do the whole thing very swiftly it would be better to plan on doing it in thirds, maybe even quarters, and once those have dried you can glue the three or four sections together with ease to make up your full width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even working in narrower sections like this you should probably use cauls (a batten clamped down firmly onto the surface of the boards) to help ensure they dry as flat as possible. The flatter you can make the surface during glue-up the less time and effort you will have to expend making it perfectly smooth and flat later on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're working on the floor you should cover it with something the glue won't stick to. Any sheet plastic including rubbish bags (US: refuse sacks) and plastic food wrap works well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;approximately 1/2&quot; thick&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also have to mention in case it's not obvious: the boards really have to be of uniform thickness for this glue-up to go smoothly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't mention whether you've surfaced and jointed the pallet wood. In case you haven't done so, to ensure a proper joint between the face of each board every one &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; be sanded or planed smooth. This is vital, even if the pallet wood looks perfectly clean and appears quite flat. The jointed edges aren't to aid the glueing operation, they are to ensure the eventual top surface is as flat as possible before any further work is done on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T21:04:26.907" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="976" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-04-16T21:18:59.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;related to fixing tools and bringing them back to a usable state for woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-16T21:18:59.353" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T21:18:59.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="977" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-04-16T21:18:59.353" Score="0" Body="the repair of tools used in woodworking" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-16T21:18:59.353" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T21:18:59.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="978" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-04-16T21:20:13.683" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The process of using steam to soften wood to bend it into shapes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-16T21:20:13.683" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T21:20:13.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="979" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-04-16T21:20:13.683" Score="0" Body="The process of using steam to soften wood to bend it into shapes." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-16T21:20:13.683" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T21:20:13.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="980" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-04-16T21:22:01.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally tools and techniques used before the advent of common power tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Resources:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How To Make Woodwork Tools, Full Working Drawings of Reliable Tools You Can Make Yourself&lt;/strong&gt;, Charles H. Haywood,; Evans Brothers Limited, London; Fair Use Publication 2006, Gary Roberts; &lt;a href=&quot;http://toolemera.com/bkpdf/haywardhowtobk.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://toolemera.com/bkpdf/haywardhowtobk.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, any woodworking or carpentry book published before WW2 and if published in Britain up to the later 50s or early 60s because of the slow adoption of power tools in home workshops in the UK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T19:35:31.333" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T19:35:31.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="981" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-04-16T21:22:01.467" Score="0" Body="Generally tools and techniques used before the advent of common power tools." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-16T21:22:01.467" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T21:22:01.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="982" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-04-16T21:23:49.327" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;a metal edged tool used to cut or shape wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-16T21:23:49.327" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T21:23:49.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="983" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-04-16T21:23:49.327" Score="0" Body="a metal edged tool used to cut or shape wood." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-16T21:23:49.327" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T21:23:49.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="984" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-04-16T21:25:58.803" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-16T21:25:58.803" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T21:25:58.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="985" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-04-16T21:25:58.803" Score="0" Body="related to building wooden boats" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-16T21:25:58.803" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T21:25:58.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="986" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-04-16T21:26:40.230" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-16T21:26:40.230" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T21:26:40.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="987" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-04-16T21:26:40.230" Score="0" Body="Preparing a surface for a final finishing." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-16T21:26:40.230" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T21:26:40.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="988" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-04-16T21:28:49.980" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-16T21:28:49.980" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T21:28:49.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="989" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-04-16T21:28:49.980" Score="0" Body="Building or designing cabinets, the materials, techniques etc." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T20:01:22.163" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T20:01:22.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="990" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-04-16T21:30:09.280" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-16T21:30:09.280" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T21:30:09.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="991" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-04-16T21:30:09.280" Score="0" Body="Dovetail joinery, tools techniques to create them." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-16T21:30:09.280" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T21:30:09.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="992" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-04-16T21:31:04.163" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One definition of jig is a device to hold, support, and locate the workpiece while guiding the cutting tool. However more broadly woodworkers now use jig to describe nearly any type of workholding or tool-guiding fixture or appliance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See more on the possible distinctions between the terms in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4070/fixture-and-jig-whats-the-difference/&quot;&gt;this Question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T20:35:21.267" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T20:35:21.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="993" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-04-16T21:31:04.163" Score="0" Body="Useful pieces of equipment to help with creation or assembly of projects." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-16T21:31:04.163" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T21:31:04.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26" CreationDate="2015-04-16T21:47:02.800" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not in any particular order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not enough blade tension&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blade alignment incorrect - adjust the wheel angle with the provided knob. The teeth gullets should be in the center of the tire of the adjusting wheel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blade thrust guide not adjusted properly allowing the blade to be pushed off the wheel. Less than 1/16&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very worn tires&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T21:47:02.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="995" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1000" CreationDate="2015-04-17T01:18:25.217" Score="8" ViewCount="3374" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ponytools.com/index.php/pony/pipe-clamps&quot;&gt;Pony Pipe Clamps&lt;/a&gt; (#50 - 3/4 pipe).  In the instructions, they suggest to mount them on a pipe threaded at both ends.  My pipes are threaded at one end only.  I'm wondering what are the advantages to thread both ends.  Is this suggested just so that the movable part of the clamp doesn't slide off the pipe? (With the coil-spring stop installed)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T05:58:41.213" Title="Why thread both ends of a pipe for a pipe clamp?" Tags="|clamps|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="995" CreationDate="2015-04-17T01:29:44.217" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can extend the reach of pipe clamps by connecting two together with a coupling. That requires that those ends be threaded.. Most people cant thread them at home, so it's better to get them threaded at the store up front so you don't have to make two trips :-) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastEditorUserId="358" LastEditDate="2015-04-17T04:58:25.043" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T04:58:25.043" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="998" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="999" CreationDate="2015-04-17T03:54:20.333" Score="8" ViewCount="1747" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wanting to build a table that will hold a Large Big Green Egg grill.  I've created a mock up using SketchUp (Just learned how to use it today, so it is kind of rough)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My design is based on a youtube video I saw and it looked like the video used 2&quot; x 2&quot; wood.  Those are the dimensions I used for my mock up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First Question: Is 2&quot; x 2&quot; a common size and is it actually 2&quot; x 2&quot;?  I recall that a 2x4 isn't really 2&quot; x 4&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second Question: Since the table will always be outside, what is a good wood to use?  Pressure treated or some type of hardwood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third Question: Is a Mortise and Tenon joint the best joint to use?  I used one for the mock up and Tenon will have to be trimmed, is that okay or should I change my dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GGHKL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mock Up&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fTBWM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Front Leg Removed To Show Mortise and Tenon&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZaCer.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close Up of Mortise and Tenon&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2015-04-18T00:04:53.620" Title="Building A Table - Help With Wood Selection and Joints" Tags="|joinery|technique|lumber|furniture|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="998" CreationDate="2015-04-17T04:51:31.350" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, I would avoid any pressure treated wood around anything having to do with food preparation - the chemicals that go into that wood are often poisonous.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Redwood or cedar would be good choices for anything outdoors, as would cypress, white oak, and teak, but they are more expensive and harder to source.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 by lumber is always 1/2&quot; less than the stated size, so 2x4 is 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 and 2x2 is 1 1/2 square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the joinery, mortise and tenon is a good, strong joint, but only if it is made correctly.  You would need to use a waterproof glue such as Tightbond III or epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option for the joinery would be to use pocket screws.  They sell outdoor rated pocket screws, and most of the joinery could be hidden with your design (cut the slots in the bottoms of the cross members).  Pocket screws would be much faster and not require quite as much precision to get a solid fit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T04:51:31.350" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="995" CreationDate="2015-04-17T05:58:41.213" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although the threaded ends can be used to extend the pipe to a longer length, the threads are used to hold a part that comes with the pony clamps. It is a piece of coiled wire that fits the threads so the sliding potion of the clamp does not come completely off the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T05:58:41.213" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1002" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1015" CreationDate="2015-04-17T09:39:22.333" Score="4" ViewCount="1416" Body="&lt;p&gt;This summer I plan to start a small tree house for kids project on a old and big but living tree (Albizia julibrissin).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first idea is to build a frame around branches without using screw in tree. The frame kind of capture branches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I right to preserve the tree from being drilled for screw ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Picture below shows principle for one branch but project will use as many as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Iafoj.png&quot; alt=&quot;Capture of one branch&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To illustrate @bowlturner's answer:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BlsnR.png&quot; alt=&quot;Fixed with bolts&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2018-07-13T13:55:35.997" LastActivityDate="2018-07-13T13:55:35.997" Title="How should I secure my treehouse to the tree?" Tags="|outdoor|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="998" CreationDate="2015-04-17T10:56:35.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer the last part. I agree with LeeG above - mortise and tenon is overkill here in terms of skill vs. utility. Unless you've got some experience with it, cutting those joints will be frustrating at this point. You're much better off with pocket screws. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even waterproof glues can fail when the wood is exposed to a lot of moisture - seasonal expansion and contraction, and water soaked into the wood call take their toll on joinery. Pocket screws would be robust to that, and could be retightened were they ever to come loose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, trimming those tenons to fit against each other will not significantly weaken the joints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T10:56:35.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="998" CreationDate="2015-04-17T12:41:08.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;First Question: Is 2&quot; x 2&quot; a common size &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't tell if you mean a common size for this type of project which I wouldn't know, but it's perfectly acceptable for what you're doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;and is it actually 2&quot; x 2&quot;? I recall that a 2x4 isn't really 2&quot; x 4&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, this is the difference between &lt;em&gt;nominal dimensions&lt;/em&gt; (1x2, 2x4 etc.) and the actual dimensions of the milled wood. &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lumber&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia's entry for lumber&lt;/a&gt; is fairly comprehensive and covers nominal sizing in sufficient detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Second Question: Since the table will always be outside, what is a good wood to use? Pressure treated or some type of hardwood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is up to you, based on cost apart from anything. Woods that naturally weather well with outdoors exposure would be a good choice here, many are very attractive woods but they tend to be expensive and could drive the cost of the project up significantly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pressure-treated lumber on the other hand is an inexpensive species treated to be resistant to rot so very cost effective. But it tends to look like what it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Third Question: Is a Mortise and Tenon joint the best joint to use? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no one best joint to use. It's a very good joint and very strong, but tricky and time-consuming to make. Accuracy is key with mortise-and-tenon joinery, if you don't end up with a snug fit of the tenon within the mortise it will significantly affect the strength if using conventional wood glues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the fit is tight polyurethane adhesive would be a good pick as they offer extremely good water resistance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there's a sloppy fit epoxy would be the adhesive of choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Tenon will have to be trimmed, is that okay or should I change my dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's fine and won't affect strength were you to go ahead with this type of joint and not go with the pocket screws recommended in a previous answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you would prefer not to use mechanical fasteners and would like a joint a little less challenging to form, consider switching to lap joints. To add extra strength and stability a dovetailed lap joint would be an excellent version to use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DMv4o.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dovetail lap joint&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2015-04-17T12:51:56.683" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T12:51:56.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1005" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-17T12:43:04.167" Score="7" ViewCount="82841" Body="&lt;p&gt;For starters this is not green-wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been cutting up some 2x4 into small blocks for painting and decoration. The block were cut and then sanded. About 3 days later I had the time to paint them. Today I noticed that some sap has seeped through. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wood was not fresh (it was from a pallet fyi.) but the cuts opened up some sections of pith it would seem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything different I could have done to have either forced the sap out or a better sealant before I painted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-11-02T14:45:02.453" LastActivityDate="2020-07-18T15:00:52.063" Title="What are the techniques to seal or remove sap?" Tags="|finishing|technique|lumber|paint|sap|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1005" CreationDate="2015-04-17T13:15:24.717" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is said (by Bob Flexner in his book &quot;Understanding Wood Finishes&quot;) that shellac is the best overall sealer.  It can also be used between any two other finishes to prevent them from reacting with each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no experience with sealing sap into the wood but his statements would lead one to believe that it would work.  At any rate, it is very easy to apply and dries very fast so that's a plus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T13:15:24.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1002" CreationDate="2015-04-17T13:21:16.423" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The design you are working on will work.  Remember trees grow, no matter what.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Screws would work too.  One thing I would point out the cross pieces you have connecting the two boards against the limb, probably shouldn't be wood.  I would go with steel bolts.  I would be afraid most wood would 'rot' or weaken relatively quickly against the bark, and it would have the bulk of the weight.  On top of that the branch can 'easily' grow around a steel bolt, but the wood might be more likely to 'girdle' the branch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big thing your design has over nails or screws is that the branches can move without causing sheer forces against the nails or screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T13:21:16.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1005" CreationDate="2015-04-17T15:07:56.507" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is actually a very common occurrence in woods like pine and fir. Many would suggest that you do not use these woods for reasons just like this one. If you persist then heat is the solution. Note: this is based on untreated wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all lumber is kiln dried and even if it was you cannot guarantee the temperature it was dried at (or duration for that matter). Sap typically &quot;sets&quot; when heated 160°F/71°C. So if you see sap seeping out then you need to heat it up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to clean it before you do any finishing (paint/stain etc). Mineral spirits is suggested as it is not likely to damage the wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some woods can have the sap coming out from everywhere. If you have the means to kiln dry the wood then it would be the best course of action. It is not ideal since the effort and cost associated with saving some pine is most likely not practical. Many people have had success properly sealing it with shellac just like GLW mentions in their answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you just have some small pieces like me then you &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; use a heat gun (Has to be a strong one) or a blowtorch. The latter can damage the wood since it is flame based but in general heat is the point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or like &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/users/27/bowlturner&quot;&gt;BowlTurner&lt;/a&gt; says: &lt;em&gt;Don't use pine/fir? :)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T15:33:39.513" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1009" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-17T15:18:37.390" Score="10" ViewCount="12140" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if different oils have wide varying techniques as far as application goes. Yes some might take longer to cure/dry but I figure in general the approaches are the same. If I am wrong then this question is meant to have a focus for Boiled Linseed Oil(BLO).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am just getting into finishes and experimenting with BLO. I am trying to figure out the ideal method for applying it to wood. I don't know how much of this could be covered in one question or should be separated. The points I am looking to cover are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I know if a coat is thick enough?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I know if coat has set/cured?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How long between coats?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How many coats am I suppose to use?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I apply something to the wood &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; the oil?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the case of BLO: Does the smell go away over time? Is it an indication of something?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2016-10-02T15:43:11.220" Title="Recommended technique for applying oils" Tags="|finishing|technique|oiling|boiled-linseed-oil|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1005" CreationDate="2015-04-17T15:21:14.823" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bowlturner's answer is really the best. When purchasing lumber from a quality lumberyard you can ask if the &quot;resin has been set&quot;. There is a little extra heat &amp;amp; time applied. This would be possible with any woods that are typically heavy sap woods (pine cedar etc). Sometimes it's a little more work but you can find the wood that's had the extra heat applied. If not &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/41798/how-to-set-wood-sap&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FWW&lt;/a&gt; has a nice article about using your oven. I also remember a woodtalkshow podcast where one of the guys who works at a lumberyard explained all this but I can't find the exact episode atm sorry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not enough rep to comment etc so yeah&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="105" LastEditorUserId="105" LastEditDate="2015-04-17T16:29:18.343" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T16:29:18.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1009" CreationDate="2015-04-17T15:50:48.917" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not an expert with BLO but I have successfully used it on different projects, so here's my take.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How do I know if a coat is thick enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More thinner coats are better than thick coats.  it will cure faster and smoother that way.  I apply a light coat and if it is runny at all I wipe off the excess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How do I know if coat has set/cured?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The canister usually tells you a good time frame.  Should be at least 24 hours in good curing conditions before applying a second coat.  If it's still tacky, wait more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How long between coats?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least 24 hours in my experience. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How many coats am I suppose to use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is more based on what look you are going for.  More coats fill in more pores and give it a shinnier look. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should I apply something to the wood before the oil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depends, if you want the wood stained then of course do that first.  Also some open grained woods can be sealed prior to reduce the amount of oil and number of coats needed to get to your ideal finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the case of BLO: Does the smell go away over time? Is it an indication of something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes the smell keeps fading, though after a year I can put my nose to the chess board I finished with it and can still smell a faint odor of BLO.  But it does fade quite a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T15:50:48.917" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1002" CreationDate="2015-04-17T16:16:18.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you really don't want to screw into the tree. Maybe consider a post structure that is built around the tree branches. Then you would have the feel of it being in the tree but it would not be dependent on the tree. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="105" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T16:16:18.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1013" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1014" CreationDate="2015-04-17T16:28:10.353" Score="12" ViewCount="11595" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the difference and why is one better than the other? Also resources on how to make or get an after market riving knife would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="105" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T20:19:29.570" Title="What is the difference between a riving knife and a splitter on a table saw?" Tags="|safety|table-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1013" CreationDate="2015-04-17T17:34:47.107" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;A riving knife goes up and down with the blade, so it's always the same distance from the back of the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One person on the Fine Woodworking forums made a nice illustration:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fdf2T.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&amp;quot;danger zone&amp;quot; of a riving knife&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.finewoodworking.com/comment/93933#comment-93933&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;image source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A splitter does not raise and lower with the blade, so as you lower the blade, the gap between the blade and splitter increases. This allows for a greater chance of kickback because the workpiece can pinch the back of the blade, or a short workpiece or offcut can skew around the back of the blade and make contact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Krrvo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&amp;quot;danger zone&amp;quot; of a splitter&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.finewoodworking.com/comment/93930#comment-93930&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;image source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a nice play-by-play illustration of how a splitter allows kickback on &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/topics/86698&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;LumberJocks&lt;/a&gt;. Fine Woodworking also has a nice &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/tool-guide/video/safer-cuts-with-a-riving-knife.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; illustrating the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On some table saws it is fairly straightforward to make your own DIY riving knife, but there are also commercial aftermarket riving knives on the market, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theborkstore.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;BORK&lt;/a&gt; (Bolt On Riving Knife) and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://thesharkguard.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shark Guard&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another alternative that's better than a traditional splitter but not as good as a true riving knife is to create several &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zNXuYlwI8N0&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;swappable throat plates&lt;/a&gt;, each with its own integrated traditional or curved splitter calibrated to a specific blade height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-04-17T20:19:29.570" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T20:19:29.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1002" CreationDate="2015-04-17T18:41:48.917" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your idea seems good at first, but I'm not sure it's the best idea long-term. For one, any movement caused by wind or by anyone moving around in the treehouse is going to cause the contact points from your brackets to rub against the bark. Over time, I could see this potentially damaging the tree more severely than bolts. Keep in mind that any part that's attached to the tree will also incidentally pull on parts of the tree that are attached to other parts of the treehouse. I would try to avoid attaching to any smaller limbs, and try to limit your attachment points to the trunk and perhaps a couple very large limbs that don't sway very much in the wind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the flipside, if your brackets don't damage the tree, they could restrict the tree's growth. If they don't damage the tree or restrict its growth, then as the limbs grow thicker in diameter they could move the treehouse's foundation and start to deform the treehouse, though this would take a very long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Family Handyman published a great &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.familyhandyman.com/garden-structures/tree-house-building-tips/view-all&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; on building a treehouse, taking into account the tree's growth, using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.familyhandyman.com/garden-structures/tree-house-building-tips/view-all#step7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;floating brackets&lt;/a&gt;, and many other practical considerations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-04-17T18:56:15.333" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T18:56:15.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1009" CreationDate="2015-04-17T20:11:55.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The procedure that I learned for applying linseed oil is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apply a coat of RAW linseed oil, allowing it to soak-in for a day or so.  This is also the time to give the wood piece a good hard look and discover those missed sanding places and tiny nicks and clean them up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then apply a coat of boiled linseed oil every day for a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then a coat per week for a month.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Followed by a coat per year forever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T20:11:55.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1017" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1018" CreationDate="2015-04-17T20:36:42.253" Score="15" ViewCount="19284" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pipe clamps seem to be a low cost and versatile option for gluing up projects. However, they're prone to racking the work piece if not placed correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Parallel bar clamps aren't as susceptible to this problem, but they're much more expensive. Other than cost, are there any other reasons to go with pipe clamps over parallel bar clamps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastActivityDate="2022-01-05T10:21:52.923" Title="Are there advantages to using pipe clamps over parallel bar clamps?" Tags="|joinery|tools|clamps|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1017" CreationDate="2015-04-17T21:00:49.827" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pipe clamps are very inexpensive compared to parallel bar clamps (also called K-body clamps), and have a virtually infinite range of clamping capacities because you can always replace your pipe with a longer or shorter one, or extend it with a pipe union and another pipe. With a parallel bar clamp, you're stuck with the length you originally purchased.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use cauls with pipe clamps (or any type of clamp) to produce even pressure across a surface. One type of caul more or less &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/workshop/tip/pipe-clamp-cauls-put-pressure-where-you-need-it.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;extends the jaws of a pipe clamp&lt;/a&gt;, while &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodnews/2010april/cauls.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;curved (or cambered) cauls&lt;/a&gt; are commonly used to distribute the pressure from two clamps across a long edge or face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-04-18T03:19:04.073" LastActivityDate="2015-04-18T03:19:04.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1017" CreationDate="2015-04-17T21:45:10.900" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to being much cheaper than bar clamps, pipe clamps allow for much higher clamping pressure.  According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/27122/how-to-glue-up-joints-the-right-number-of-clamps&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; article in Fine Woodworking, a typical parallel clamp can reach about 370 pounds of pressure.  3/4&quot; pipe clamps can reach 1,050 pounds and the I beam style bar clamps can reach 1,350 pounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the downsides to pipe clamps was that they could be difficult to keep aligned when on the underside of a glue up.  A lot of those problems can be eliminated by use of newer style clamps such as the Rockler Sure Foot clamps&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nT4Ou.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastEditorUserId="290" LastEditDate="2015-04-18T06:48:17.677" LastActivityDate="2015-04-18T06:48:17.677" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1020" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1075" CreationDate="2015-04-17T23:24:42.777" Score="16" ViewCount="92619" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read that wood conditioner (also known as pre-stain) helps prevent blotching, but it 'designed' for use with soft or porous wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got an 80x36x1&quot; red oak panel that I think I'm going to stain. Red Oak is not considered a soft wood, but would Pre-Stain help my staining project turn out more uniform anyways?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, if I change my mind on staining, but still wish to do a poly coat, does Pre-Stain do anything beneficial for that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2018-09-06T01:56:26.213" Title="Should you always use Pre-Stain?" Tags="|hardwood|staining|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1020" CreationDate="2015-04-17T23:30:50.797" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;While it will probably have a greater effect on softwoods, it certainly won't hurt to use it on hardwood. As &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/preparation/minwax-prestain-wood-conditioner&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;minwax&lt;/a&gt;'s faq says, hardwoods have more even pores and thus take stains better. Bear in mind, this is for oil based stains. The pre-stain is oil based just like the stains, so if you use it, you'll probably get poor results with a poly finish even if you don't stain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use a water based stain, then you can use a water based pre-stain and then polyurethane should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to use a one-step product which stains and finishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with any project, &lt;em&gt;test on scrap before you do it on your finished piece.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="180" LastEditDate="2015-04-17T23:37:06.793" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T23:37:06.793" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1022" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1029" CreationDate="2015-04-17T23:33:22.920" Score="11" ViewCount="2398" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a rough-sanded red oak panel (120 grit). I need to make a small circular cut with a jigsaw for a grommet. I plan on sanding the panel with 150, then 180 grit, in preparation for either staining and sealing, or just sealing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was planning on using blue painter's tape on the panel, and some on the foot of the jigsaw, to help prevent any scratching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I cut this hole before doing my 150 and 180 sanding? The hole is about 100mm (3.9&quot;) in diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I worry that I'll get better sanding results without the hole in the way, but that I could have to re-do some sanding if the foot of the jigsaw scratches the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is the tried-and-tested best practice here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-04-18T00:17:51.480" LastActivityDate="2015-04-19T08:30:49.913" Title="Cut, then Sand? Or Vice-versa" Tags="|finishing|technique|sanding|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1023" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-17T23:38:59.457" Score="21" ViewCount="31243" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sometimes see woodworkers talking about a zero-clearance insert for their table- or band-saws. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is it? And why/when should I use one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2020-05-25T02:37:37.433" Title="Why a zero clearance insert?" Tags="|table-saw|band-saw|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1023" CreationDate="2015-04-17T23:43:38.217" Score="20" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To prevent small pieces from falling into the gap. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To serve as a backing to minimize chipout on the back side of the cut. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't think of a time when you wouldn't be better off using one. However, sometimes it's sort of a pain to make one for every blade, or in the case of a Dado set every blade combination... So it tends to not be used for non critical cuts sometimes. But again, I can't imagine it not helping for any cut. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T23:43:38.217" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1023" CreationDate="2015-04-17T23:46:21.597" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;A zero clearance insert is an insert which exactly matches the width of the blade. You can make one by slowly raising the blade through an un-cut insert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage is as aaron says, they prevent things from falling through the hole, and more importantly, they reduce chip-out by ensuring that the piece has support and thus chips won't tend to get pulled away from the board. It's not perfect though, so if you care, still put in your sacrificial piece. In general, the less open space you have under your piece, the more control you have over it when cutting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;You should always use an insert that leaves as little gap around the blade as possible.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T23:46:21.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="998" CreationDate="2015-04-17T23:55:31.127" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;First Question: Is 2&quot; x 2&quot; a common size and is it actually 2&quot; x 2&quot;? I&#xA;  recall that a 2x4 isn't really 2&quot; x 4&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, 2x2s are common (at least in my area) but as you suspected, they are actually only 1.5&quot;x1.5&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Second Question: Since the table will always be outside, what is a&#xA;  good wood to use? Pressure treated or some type of hardwood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on whether your food and utensils will ever come in contact with the wood. For example, if you always put your food and utensils on a tray, you don't need to worry about the food safety of your lumber, and pressure-treated lumber would be fine. However, you could use any type of lumber and treat it with a UV-resistant finish, or you could use a naturally rot-resistant wood. Although species is not the only factor that determines rot resistance, it's a good place to start, as discussed in an article on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.garden.org/articles/articles.php?q=show&amp;amp;id=977&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;garden.org&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Exceptionally resistant: black locust, red mulberry, osage orange, and Pacific yew.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resistant or very resistant: old-growth bald cypress, catalpa, cedar (either eastern or western red cedar), black cherry, chestnut, junipers, honey locust, white oak, old-growth redwood, sassafras, and black walnut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moderately Resistant: second-growth bald cypress, Douglas fir, eastern larch, western larch, old-growth eastern white pine, old-growth longleaf pine, old-growth slash pine, and second-growth redwood.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Third Question: Is a Mortise and Tenon joint the best joint to use? I&#xA;  used one for the mock up and Tenon will have to be trimmed, is that&#xA;  okay or should I change my dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are numerous joints that would work in this application, from pocket joints as suggested by LeeG, to lap joints (including the fancier dovetailed lap joint suggested by Graphus), to simple butt joints reinforced with dowels or biscuits, to even the most exotic joints. You could even move the legs to the inside corners of the corner joints and use classic dovetails rather than making the legs integral to the corner joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mortise and tenon joints would also be fine, but probably wouldn't work very well as pictured in your illustrations. The critical factor in determining a mortise and tenon joint's strength is the effective width of the tenon--the distance your router would travel when you cut the mortise (if you were to use a router).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were using mortise and tenon joinery on this project, personally I'd replace the horizontal parts with 1x4s, decreasing the thicknesses but increasing the widths of your tenons (and, consequently, your mortises). This will allow you to offset the mortises further toward the outside, in turn allowing you to cut slightly &lt;em&gt;deeper&lt;/em&gt; mortises without any interference from the tenon that goes into the mortise on the adjacent face. As an added benefit, the wider and longer tenons will produce more long-grain glue surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a purely mechanical joint and don't want to use glue at all, you could either drawbore your mortise and tenon joints or each corner joint could use a combination of an interlocking tenon with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/hand-tool-techniques-tusk-tenons/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tusk&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.craftsmanspace.com/knowledge/wedged-tenon-and-mortise-joint.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wedged&lt;/a&gt; tenon. Just within the realm of mortise and tenon joints, the possibilities are endless--it's really all about your personal preference on this project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But suppose you really love your design, and you want to use mortise and tenon joinery and all 2x2 material for the frame. In that case, you should use a double mortise and tenon to achieve more surface area for the joint. Marc Spagnuolo, aka The Wood Whisperer, has a great article and accompanying video on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/double-mortise-tenon-joints/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;how to create a double mortise and tenon joint&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-04-18T00:04:53.620" LastActivityDate="2015-04-18T00:04:53.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1022" CreationDate="2015-04-17T23:55:51.633" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless your hole is too large, you should use a hole-saw bit for your drill rather than a jigsaw. If you can't, then make sure you're using a fine-toothed blade and some sacrificial scrap to prevent tear-out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you like extra work, you could sand first and make your cut, but no matter the precautions you take, you're likely to have a little-touch-up work to do. For any project, finish sanding should be the last step: You should cut your wood to its completed shape, then sand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T23:55:51.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1028" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1030" CreationDate="2015-04-17T23:50:30.177" Score="13" ViewCount="2247" Body="&lt;p&gt;I inherited a bunch of my tools from an woodworker who had developed a severe lung condition due in part to sawdust.  I've had lung problems my whole life so have been mindful of this via dust collection and masks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, after learning about different woods I'm realizing some are more dangerous than others.  Exotic woods in particular can cause severe allergic reactions, but even common woodworking woods like black walnut produce shavings that will kill plants if you mulch it into your garden.  Cedar has a number of great anti-microbial and anti-insect properties, but do those very properties carry allergy risks for people, too?  Pressure-treated lumber is bad due to the chemicals injected into them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given adequate dust collection and so on, which commonly woodworked woods are most allergy-safe?  Which are the worst?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" OwnerDisplayName="Bryce" LastEditorUserId="140" LastEditDate="2015-09-16T14:17:06.343" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T19:00:09.253" Title="What common woods produce the safest/most harmful dust?" Tags="|safety|wood|wood-selection|sawdust|toxicity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1022" CreationDate="2015-04-18T00:33:35.763" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Daniel B. mentioned, a jigsaw isn't the ideal tool if you want a smooth cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a drill press, you can use a circle cutter for a smooth cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use a small router and circle cutting jig to get a nice, smooth cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case, use a sacrificial piece of wood on the exit side of your workpiece to prevent blowout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to be safe, I would cut the hole then finish sanding but it probably won't make much difference if you use a cutting method and technique that produces a clean cut straight off the tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2015-04-18T00:33:35.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1028" CreationDate="2015-04-18T01:12:39.313" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not know what wood is common in Portland. Common woods will differ between locales. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have lung issues then I would imagine you should't be working unknown woods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are fortunate enough to know the wood you are working then I would refer to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wood-Database&lt;/a&gt; as it has an &lt;strong&gt;extensive&lt;/strong&gt; database with details about &quot;Allergies and Toxicities&quot; for all its known woods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/softwoods/spruce-pine/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Spruce Pine&lt;/a&gt; for example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Working with pine has been reported to cause allergic skin reactions and/or asthma-like symptoms in some people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure that warning is shared among other pine species as well. I work with pine and spruce quite frequently and I don't personally have issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't include the whole table here but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-allergies-and-toxicity/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;another article&lt;/a&gt; has a well drawn table including more details. That page is well partnered with another article on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-dust-safety/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wood Dust Safety&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Even If you were to do nothing else at least wear a mask&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All dust has the potential to cause issues as small particles will be breathed into you lungs. A fair warning from aforementioned wood dust article:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;Long-Term Damage:&lt;/b&gt; Forget about the large chips and visible sawdust: perhaps the most damaging element is the invisible fine dust (sometimes called “coarse inhalable particles” ranging from 2-10 microns). Basically, these tiny bits of sawdust float around the air and linger even after the tools have stopped running. These invisible particles get inhaled and cause tiny wounds and scarring to our lungs: each time this happens, it causes a very small amount of irreversible damage. The immediate effect is unnoticeable, but over long periods of time, this can result in significantly decreased lung capacity, and a number of other health issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to never &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; worry about sawdust but now that I'm engaging in woodworking more I try and keep at least some simple dust masks around at all times. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T19:00:09.253" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T19:00:09.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1017" CreationDate="2015-04-18T01:58:51.893" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another advantage pipe clamps offer is that you can reverse them to expand even if you may need a pipe tap the first time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="277" LastActivityDate="2015-04-18T01:58:51.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1033" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1037" CreationDate="2015-04-18T05:01:19.910" Score="8" ViewCount="1757" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a simple sit/stand base for a monitor and keyboard--something similar to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.codeovereasy.com/2013/09/diy-adjustable-desk-for-under-25/&quot;&gt;the one this guy made.&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other hardware options besides two rods bolted to the wood top and wood base? Any hardware to get it to lock at all different positions? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to make the wood sit closer to the desk, in the lowered position ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What type of wood does one use for something like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This design can not be attached to the desk in anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-04-18T07:00:20.420" LastActivityDate="2015-04-18T07:47:04.177" Title="How to hinge a piece of wood for an up/down configuration?" Tags="|fasteners|assembly|design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1034" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1047" CreationDate="2015-04-18T05:03:42.977" Score="8" ViewCount="880" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen people online claim that table saw fences should not extend very far past the rear-most part of the blade. They say that kickback is largely due to the fence being too long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't make sense to me. I get that the piece will be less likely to get trapped between the blade and the fence, but if the front of the piece were to move past the plane of the fence, presumably the back end could be picked up by the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will a shorter fence reduce the likelihood or severity of kickback?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the relevant part of a comment on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/24638/new-study-discusses-tablesaw-injuries&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Another obvious flaw: rip fences are too long.&#xA;  There is no good reason to have the rip fence extend beyond the cut. Doing so invites kickback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I really thought John Heisz mentioned something about a shorter fence on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ibuildit.ca/Workshop%20Projects/rebuild-table-saw-2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;his table saw&lt;/a&gt;, but now I can't find it. Maybe it was in a video.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="281" LastEditorUserId="281" LastEditDate="2015-04-18T17:19:26.603" LastActivityDate="2015-04-19T12:55:31.580" Title="Is a shorter rip fence safer?" Tags="|safety|table-saw|kickback|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1035" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-04-18T06:58:58.000" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Issues related to the design phase of a woodworking project, such as how to determine appropriate dimensions, recommendations for materials, critiquing of the design, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This tag is one of several tags that can be used to identify the stages in a project's life the question is addressing.  Other useful phase tags include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;assembly, finishing, &amp;amp; installation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Resources&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sagulator&lt;/a&gt; website app helps determine the amount of sag you can expect for specific species, sizes, and spans of wood shelves or table surfaces.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/materials/how-to-calculate-wood-shrinkage-and-expansion/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This web page&lt;/a&gt; from Popular Woodworking discusses the nature of wood movement and how to calculate the amount of movement to expect on your project.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2022-05-26T10:38:44.437" LastActivityDate="2022-05-26T10:38:44.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1036" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-04-18T06:58:58.000" Score="0" Body="Issues related to the design phase of a woodworking project." OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-04-18T06:58:58.000" LastActivityDate="2015-04-18T06:58:58.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1033" CreationDate="2015-04-18T07:47:04.177" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are there any other hardware options besides two rods bolted to the wood top and wood base? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many types of bolts that might suit a project like this, depending on the exact design you arrive at. Have a look on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Type-Chart.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BoltDepot&lt;/a&gt; for a pretty comprehensive overview of what's available. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory the entire table could be made from wood, using a hardwood dowel to act as the hinge pin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any hardware to get it to lock at all different positions? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could do this in wood, again depending on the design you go for. Something like the adjustment bars that some reclining sun chairs use, where a hinged horizontal goes into slots spaced evenly underneath:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mMp5m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Simple reclining mechanism&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also a variety of metal mechanisms that provide heigh adjustment for tables and &quot;lift hinges&quot; as used in many kitchen cabinets:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CpC0A.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Metal height adjustment mechanism&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a way to make the wood sit closer to the desk, in the lowered position ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were making this I would make the legs closer to the original laptop stand that provided the inspiration, so that they sit beyond the edges of the table portion and the entire assembly basically folds flat when fully lowered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What type of wood does one use for something like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could make this out of pine if the material is thick enough. Pine can work even for something that needs to take a person's entire weight, like a step stool, as long as it is thick enough and the joints are suitable, to provide the necessary strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more compactness you want a stronger, stiffer wood. Oak would be a good choice. If you're in the US, white oak in particular. Hard maple would also be a good choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-04-18T07:47:04.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1020" CreationDate="2015-04-18T12:26:06.543" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Red Oak is an open pored wood vs. White Oak which is a closed pore wood.  Using a pre-stain on red oak can help close the pores to reduce the stain absorbed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a video by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dQObZ1egaUw&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bruce Johnson&lt;/a&gt; recommending pre-stain and he's working with Oak cabinets.  He says it's best for pine and problem woods like aspen and alder.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what I get from that is, it can ensure you get a nice even stain on any wood, but many hardwoods don't usually need them.  But if you are worried, then better safe than sorry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-04-18T12:26:06.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1028" CreationDate="2015-04-18T12:39:48.190" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding to Matt's answer, all sawdust is bad for your lungs.  Some is just worse than others.  It is the small particles that get in them and cause physical damage, very similar to how asbestos works.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that you get woods that have different chemicals that can cause different reactions. The wood-database does have a list of woods and their 'danger' level of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-allergies-and-toxicity/&quot;&gt;toxicity&lt;/a&gt; which is mostly how dangerous they are to anyone.  However, when dealing with allergies, that is an individual basis and is impossible to guess.  Even though some woods have a more likely chance to cause allergic reactions in some people, any two people will react differently to each wood and general precautions should always be taken.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The WDB also mentions woods that can affect a person by contact, not just inhalation, and those woods should have more care taken and protecting skin could be a very real issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-04-18T12:39:48.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1040" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1041" CreationDate="2015-04-18T15:06:08.477" Score="15" ViewCount="3823" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of the woodworking books and articles I read will mention using spokeshaves for different things.  What exactly is a spokeshave and what is their primary design purpose?  I've never used one and they look like a cross between a draw bar and a hand plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2019-03-14T13:04:30.917" Title="What are spokeshaves and what is their intended use?" Tags="|hand-tools|traditional-techniques|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1040" CreationDate="2015-04-18T15:54:39.647" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are designed to smooth round things like wheel spokes and chair legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to this nice blurb from &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spokeshave&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A spokeshave is a tool used to shape and smooth wooden rods and shafts - often for use as wheel spokes, chair legs (particularly complex shapes such as the cabriole leg),[1] self bows, and arrows. It can also be used to carve canoe or kayak paddles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Newer, all metal ones, look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/01/Bugthoevl.jpg/220px-Bugthoevl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/01/Bugthoevl.jpg/220px-Bugthoevl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A pair of spokeshaves&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from Wikipedia.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While a (still new, but much prettier) wooden one might look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H0uc6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H0uc6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Beautiful wooden shaves&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image borrowed from Dave's Shaves at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncworkshops.com&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;ncworkshops.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roy Underhill of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pbs.org/woodwrightsshop/home/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Woodwright's Shop&lt;/a&gt; (I didn't realize it's still on the air!) has used and spoken of them in many episodes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2019-03-14T13:04:30.917" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1022" CreationDate="2015-04-18T21:38:43.453" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since your finished hole is going to lined with a grommet, it seems that a little tear out can easily be tolerated.  I think that with your use of masking tape to limit the tear out you are on the right track and can reasonably use your jigsaw.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Circle cutters are kind of tricky and you would want to make several practice cuts before you commit to using it on a cherished project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide to use a hole saw, you can eliminate the tear out by drilling from both sides of the panel.  Again practice cuts would be advisable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cut the hole, finish sanding, insert the grommet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2015-04-18T21:38:43.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1043" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1045" CreationDate="2015-04-19T03:18:32.873" Score="8" ViewCount="1270" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a contractor table saw that I want to seal up for better dust collection. I have a good idea for how to close in the back and other holes, but I'm not quite sure what to do about the area where the sides meet the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EUmZR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;table saw gap from side&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: me&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The underside of the cast-iron top is fairly irregular here. Will this have much effect on dust collection? How can I seal this area to get better suction near the blade? I'll be using a 1.5 hp collector with 4&quot; hose, with the port directly under the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="281" LastActivityDate="2016-11-19T00:41:24.450" Title="How can I enclose the top of my contractor table saw for better dust collection?" Tags="|table-saw|dust-collection|tool-modification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1043" CreationDate="2015-04-19T03:57:20.840" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't worry about it unless you hook everything up and find that you aren't getting good enough suction. In fact, you &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; want to completely seal up the saw, or else there won't be enough air intake to feed the dust collection port. Airflow in must equal the airflow out. If you starve the dust collector by sealing up the table saw too much, you'll only strain the dust collector motor as it tries (and fails) to pull the same volume of air through nothing but the space between your blade and throat plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For comparison, I have a cabinet saw with a 4&quot; dust collection port and good dust collection, and just like yours it has gaps on the underside where the cast iron table meets the cabinet. Of course, it also has the big curved hole for the height adjustment crank which allows you to tilt the arbor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I mentioned earlier, I wouldn't worry about it for now, but if you do later find that you don't get very good dust collection, you can always try cutting some foam to fill the gaps. Even then, you might be better served by adding dust collection above your blade--for example, some blade guards have dust collection ports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-04-19T04:07:25.960" LastActivityDate="2015-04-19T04:07:25.960" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1043" CreationDate="2015-04-19T06:06:44.530" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you feel it must be sealed up, some nicely placed HVAC aluminum tape will do the trick. A careful application at the edge of the table and bring it to the sides with a little turn-down to seal it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do agree with Rob that 4&quot; round will give plenty draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2015-04-19T06:06:44.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1022" CreationDate="2015-04-19T08:30:49.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know that there's a single best practice here. Different woodworkers tackle certain things in different ways and we have a good example here of the differences in philosophy between one maker and another — the resistance to the idea of using a jigsaw for the cut in the first place. This despite curved cuts being one of the things a jigsaw is primarily intended for, coupled with the fact that they make blades specifically for wood, one could say that a jigsaw is a perfect choice for this job. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hole-saws are obviously purpose-made for this too, but they aren't immune to tearout either. Especially on a fibrous wood like red oak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the right jigsaw blade used at the right speed you should normally get minimal tearout on at least one side of a board (depending on the blade this can be the entry or the exit side). With a particularly good blade such as the Bosch Extra Clean both sides of the board can end up equally free of tearout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, even if you are using a blade that won't give a perfect entry side, there is another way to help prevent tearout and that is with a zero-clearance plate or insert. This offers the same advantages as a sacrificial board, without the added cutting effort and the waste of the sacrificial material. The zero-clearance can be left in place for all vertical cutting, only removed for angled cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I worry that I'll get better sanding results without the hole in the way&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you're right to be concerned, but with just finish-sanding still to go you should be OK. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would actually use a card scraper instead of sanding for this (faster, no dust, better results), but either way I would smooth the wood prior to cutting and then examine the hole edges, hoping I wouldn't have to but prepared to do touch-ups &lt;em&gt;if&lt;/em&gt; needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I could have to re-do some sanding if the foot of the jigsaw scratches the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think your plan to tape the foot of the jigsaw with tape is a very safe way to go, done right even on softer wood like pine you nearly remove the risk of light surface scratches. But if you make a zero-clearance insert from a material such as hardboard which is softer than the red oak you will have even greater assurance that you won't scratch the workpiece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-04-19T08:30:49.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1034" CreationDate="2015-04-19T12:49:44.990" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the European table saw safety rules require the shorter rip fence. The theory of the shorter fence is that wood can have internal stresses (due to grain structure) which are relieved when cut, which can cause the fence side board to curve into the fence, pushing the board into the back of the blade causing kickback. The shorter fence allows the board to curve into space,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shorter design does not address stress relief causing rear blade contact in other ways, such as closing down on the saw blade. A riving knife will prevent kickback in all of these situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any full length fence can have a shorter piece of wood attached to the side to act as a shorter fence. My opinion is that a riving knife is the best choice for preventing kickback because it will prevent kickback any time the wood is forced into the back off the blade from either or both directions. With a riving knife in place, the shorter fence would prevent binding between the blade/riving knife and fence in the event the board curved into the fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastEditorUserId="265" LastEditDate="2015-04-19T12:55:31.580" LastActivityDate="2015-04-19T12:55:31.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1048" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-19T17:58:37.333" Score="6" ViewCount="2562" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought this planter box at a yard sale for $5. I think it may not be used outside as the heat or moisture may have caused the corners to warp and come apart. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gQ4yO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image of planter with separated joint&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two corner joints are really bad (see photos) the other two not so much. If this can be fixed, I could do it or find a local woodworker to fix it. What does the fix entail if it can be fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="435" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-06-29T18:09:04.307" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T20:21:05.990" Title="Can corner joints on a planter box that are warped and coming apart be fixed?" Tags="|joinery|wood-movement|wood-repair|moisture|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27" CreationDate="2015-04-19T18:11:29.363" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;One time honored method for achieving square cuts is to use a miter box. Check out this article on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.renaissancewoodworker.com/ditch-the-miter-box/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ditch the Miter Box&lt;/a&gt; for an interesting discussion of pros and cons.  The main article suggests abandoning miter boxes and using a back saw without the box for making precise cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No matter how you make the cut, one sure aid in getting a straight cut is to first draw the line along which you wish to cut, then place the saw on one side of the line.  Never try to saw down the middle of the line because you are essentially erasing as you go.  Even if you start by putting down a saw kerf, make it on the side of the line that is going to give you the desired length of the piece of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="5330" LastEditDate="2018-07-12T21:23:14.647" LastActivityDate="2018-07-12T21:23:14.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1048" CreationDate="2015-04-19T18:24:50.357" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Easiest would be splicing in a little triangle reinforcement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As described in &lt;a href=&quot;http://woodgears.ca/box_joint_alt/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need to clamp the corner closed when you make the cut in them and glue it up again. Here is the required cut in the box depicted with a half finished computer case:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bhVEf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodgears.ca/computer_case/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;image source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2015-04-19T18:24:50.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1048" CreationDate="2015-04-19T20:45:11.787" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that it is more likely that this joint failed due to the moisture from watering the dirt rather than being outside. Simply re-gluing it and keeping it inside will not be enough to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can foresee a few options&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glue up the joint again as it was and this time line the planter with plastic so that the moist dirt does not come in direct contact with the planter.  However for the health of the plants, you will almost certainly need drainage holes in the plastic, and it may be difficult (but not impossible) keep the wood dry around the drainage holes. Still, moisture in the center of the bottom of the planter will not affect the joints as much as before.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a nail gun to secure the joint. Nails are much more resilient against wood-movement. If you do it properly and place two nails the same distance from the top and bottom of the planter, it will still look nice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2016-06-29T20:21:05.990" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T20:21:05.990" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1020" CreationDate="2015-04-20T06:47:48.247" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've read that wood conditioner (also known as pre-stain) helps prevent blotching, but it 'designed' for use with soft or porous wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More accurately wood conditioners are designed for &lt;em&gt;blotch-prone woods&lt;/em&gt;, which softwoods are known to be. But a few species of hardwoods are also prone to blotching too, including American cherry and birch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More on this at bottom, but what conditioning does is partially seal off areas of the wood that are particularly absorbent, so that they don't soak up a greater amount of stain than the surrounding areas that are less absorbent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With your panel specifically it may help somewhat or very little, there's no way to predict in advance (normally it would be advisable to run a quick test, check for results before committing to the workpiece). Given the size of the panel you mention it is obviously a glue-up or plywood, and on the former it could well help even out the results if the grain orientation is less than uniform from one board to the next, or if the boards are taken from more than one tree which is possible. On plywood I wouldn't want to predict any benefit, but pre-sealing can't hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: you can sidestep the worries concerned with blotching by using a colouring product that doesn't stain the wood itself. Gel stains are the classic answer here, and coloured varnishes can give similar benefits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Furthermore, if I change my mind on staining, but still wish to do a poly coat, does Pre-Stain do anything beneficial for that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not as a rule no. But it shouldn't do anything negative either (depending on specifics).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Commercial wood conditioner/pre-stain conditioners are merely proprietary products designed to partially seal the wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But prior to the introduction of such products this wasn't impossible, the same result was achieved by using something the woodworker prepared himself, e.g. using a 'spitcoat' or highly thinned layer of shellac. More recently both heavily diluted varnish and a watery mixture of PVA-type wood glues have also been utilised for the same end. All three methods are currently in use by someone and they work about as well as the commercial product, sometimes not as good sometimes better, because of the usual reason that wood is a natural product and varies so much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T06:47:48.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1048" CreationDate="2015-04-20T14:14:50.613" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use some metal angle brackets to reinforce the inside of the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the warping, boards usually cup like that when one side dries faster than the other.  Having a metal container that lines the inside will reduce the rate that the inside face drys, which will cause that cupping.  You might be able to reduce that effect by sealing the outside well with some clear coat deck sealant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could possibly reverse the cupping by wetting the wood and placing it in the sun so that the inside gets the light, and covering the outside with a plastic film (duplicate the initial effects in reverse).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T14:14:50.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="399" CreationDate="2015-04-20T14:31:17.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This video isn't of exactly the same tool, but it might give you some insight:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YrdSz6eq5ks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hollowing TOOL Review:woodturning with Sam&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="437" LastEditorUserId="180" LastEditDate="2015-04-20T14:36:11.653" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T14:36:11.653" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1020" CreationDate="2015-04-20T16:55:00.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never used any of the pre-stain wood conditioners but I have used a very thin coat of shellac for the same purpose and can verify that it works on both pine and cherry.  The shellac method also seals the end grain somewhat and thus prevents it from absorbing too much stain which is also a common problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watco Danish Oil might also work but I've never tried any of the colored varieties on cherry; I've only used the clear stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T16:55:00.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1056" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1060" CreationDate="2015-04-20T17:18:32.253" Score="13" ViewCount="3532" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was watching an episode of the Wood Whisperer on YouTube, and he was making a frame for a mirror. At one point in the video he was going to put a round-over on the frame and was using an electric router for it. He said that the rule is &quot;on the outside of the frame, go counter clockwise; on the inside go clockwise&quot;. He didn't give a reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I am a hand tool guy and my idea of a router is a good old Record 71.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.record-planes.com/files/2008/07/Record-No-071-Router-Plane-20-180x150.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YfEYh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Record 71&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Image courtesy &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.record-planes.com/record-no-071-router-plane/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Record Planes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand grain direction and wanting to work with it; not against it. From what I have been told you &lt;em&gt;generally&lt;/em&gt; don't have to worry about it when using power tools. Why would the direction you are going around a frame matter as stated in the video? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user234" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2019-01-31T23:08:46.437" LastActivityDate="2019-01-31T23:08:46.437" Title="Why does direction matter when using an electric router?" Tags="|technique|power-tools|router|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1056" CreationDate="2015-04-20T17:29:22.230" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you are hand cutting, you push the sharp edge of the cutting tool into the wood so that it makes a cut, you don't drag it along the wood backwards waiting for it to wear down the wood via friction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same holds true with a power tool. When looked at from the top of the router, the bit will spin clockwise. In order to push the cutter into the wood when moving around the outside of the picture frame, you would move the tool counter-clockwise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you jump to the inside of the frame, in order to keep the cutting edge of the bit pushing into the wood, you want to use the 'other' side of the bit and go clockwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going the wrong direction, the bit will want to 'run' along the surface, and not cut cleanly into the wood, leaving you with an uneven cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T17:29:22.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1056" CreationDate="2015-04-20T17:29:44.677" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has to do with the rotation direction of the bit. You want to go 'against' the rotation with your pass, rather than 'with' the rotation (called a climb cut). This pulls the material toward the bit, but can splinter the last section of cut since the bit will be pushing out of the material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are times when you want to make a climb cut- if you have especially frangible material, you might make a climb cut for the last 1-2&quot;, then go back to the other end and start a regular cut- less tear-out at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T17:29:44.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1056" CreationDate="2015-04-20T17:31:38.927" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using a router, the bit spins at up to 30,000 RPM  in one direction (usually clockwise when holding it bit down).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then if you run the bit in the same direction it is spinning, it will try and 'run away' and can totally mess up your work piece.  The reason why you go one way on the outside and the reverse on the inside is you are basically flipping which direction the bit will try to 'run'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="38" LastEditDate="2015-08-11T19:28:17.350" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T19:28:17.350" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1056" CreationDate="2015-04-20T17:37:59.513" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has to do with the rotation of the bit.  In a normal cut, the work piece is fed against the rotation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A normal cut works like this (shown for freehand):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7dw3a.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Normal cut diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cutting action will pull the work piece into the bit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other cut, is known as a climbing cut.  It pushes the work piece away from the bit.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e2nRr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Climbing Cut diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A climbing cut will have less tear out, but requires more control of the router to keep it from pulling away and injuring the operator or damaging the work piece.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A normal cut is safer in all instances.  The tear out that can happen can be eliminated by using a backer board to support the wood at the end of the cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/us/shopping/TechInfo.aspx?p=56809&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; link at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lee-Valley&lt;/a&gt; tools for a complete description (images are from Lee-Valley)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastEditorUserId="479" LastEditDate="2015-04-30T19:58:10.940" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T19:58:10.940" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1061" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1063" CreationDate="2015-04-20T19:16:28.620" Score="29" ViewCount="32553" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been watching a lot of videos lately about table saws. In those videos I usually see cuts are being made with the blade just barely clearing the piece. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/88qbu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Low blade cutting wood&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/88qbu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;HammerZone&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conversely I see some where the blade is very high above the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hQtmK.png&quot; alt=&quot;High blade cutting wood&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image cropped from &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hQtmK.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the second example I do not see a reason to have the blade up that high to cut the piece. There would be a obvious safety issue with more blade being exposed but is there a reason to keep the blade up that high?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2017-07-18T17:21:55.027" LastActivityDate="2019-01-07T19:41:07.597" Title="What is the recommended height of the blade on a table saw while operating?" Tags="|technique|safety|table-saw|cutting|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1061" CreationDate="2015-04-20T19:26:39.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;Well I noticed two things about the pictures you posted.  The first is a ripping blade and the second is a cross cut blade.  That might have something to do with it. &lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is a crosscut blade and the second one is a 'cross' between a rip saw and a cross saw, doesn't have the kicker on each tooth. (though there still might be a reason for height between cross cutting a board and ripping).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, what I was able to find was that the more blade you have showing the more blade is available to be grabbed and cause a kick-back (pinching the blade).  Cross cutting a piece of wood is less likely (IMO) to cause a pinch and kickback.  So that might be part of the reason for the differences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The different comments also suggested a good riving knife will help reduce the chance of kick back in these situations too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally just like it closer to board height to have less exposure to the spinning teeth of the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-20T19:58:19.443" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T19:58:19.443" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1061" CreationDate="2015-04-20T19:39:11.243" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you call up Freud and ask, they'll tell you that you want one full tooth to clear the top of the wood, but no more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of reasons for that recommendation- first is safety. A tooth that clears the surface on the up swing then re-enters on the down swing may not follow the same planar path due to harmonics and vibration related physics. A tooth that is held firmly by the material it is cutting is less likely to catch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason why you want a whole tooth to extend through the work surface has to do with the shape of a tooth and debris clearance. Circular saw blade teeth (even carbide ones) are often wider at the tip than they are at the base. This tapering allows for less binding and cleaner cuts than a straight tooth would.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T19:39:11.243" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1061" CreationDate="2015-04-20T21:48:51.637" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The common argument for raising the blade is that the front of the blade is making a more downward cut, theoretically reducing the chance of kickback and increasing cut quality. While this may produce a better-quality cut in plywood, the kickback argument relies on flawed logic, since kickback is often produced by the kerf pinching the back of the blade or by a workpiece or offcut getting pinched between the back of the blade and the fence. It also means the back of the blade is following a more vertical path as it exits the table, increasing the possibility that your workpiece or offcut will be raised off the surface of the table and out of your control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The argument for lowering the blade is that less exposed blade means you have a smaller chance of an amputation if you accidentally position your hand in the line of the cut and make contact with the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are various modern recommendations, all of which are very similar:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the blade should be raised so its peak is 1/8&quot; to 3/8&quot; higher than your workpiece&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the blade should be raised so 1 full tooth is exposed above your workpiece&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the blade should be raised to expose half of the gullet (if there are multiple depths of gullets as in some combination blades, this recommendation applies to the shallowest gullets)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As TX Turner briefly noted, the purpose of having some clearance above the blade is to allow the gullets to empty. If the gullet does not have adequate clearance, it may not be able to dump its payload before its corresponding tooth takes another bite. When this happens, the gullet becomes packed with sawdust, producing friction on each subsequent pass, commonly causing the blade to wander and/or burn the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-05-02T03:50:12.467" LastActivityDate="2015-05-02T03:50:12.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27" CreationDate="2015-04-21T09:42:50.867" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a beginner myself with hand sawing, but the following tips worked for me for straighter saw cuts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mark your cuts either with a pencil or marking knife or both. This allows you to see if you follow the line. The added benefit of using a marking knife is that it severes wood fibres, so there is less tearing or splintering on the exit side.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do not force the saw, just let it do its job. For Western-style saws, forward pressure is OK, but do not apply (a lot of) downward pressure. Relax your grip on the handle -- it may help if you imagine holding a tiny bird in your hand that you are trying not to crush.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As others have pointed out, your elbow should swing free of your body.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How you start the cut can make a huge difference. For particularly delicate cuts, I cut a straight V-groove with a marking knife or chisel that helps the blade to start right at the planned angle. Again, no forcing the saw and no downward pressure at all. I make a few pull strokes to get the blade catch in the wood (pros I've seen on YouTube start the cut with short back-and-forth movement -- didn't work for me, I guess it depends on the wood).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Another handy trick when starting a cut is to watch the reflection of the wood on the saw blade to see if you are holding it perpendicular to the surface. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Once the cut is started, control the saw by focusing on where the saw should go, as opposed to where it is. I know it sounds vague, but for some reason it works.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use the full length of the blade. In my admittedly limited experience, this results in straighter, cleaner and faster cuts + the wear on the blade is more even. It helps if you imagine the saw is longer than is actually is.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the saw starts to wander, do not bend the blade. Instead, track back to where the saw started wandering and try again.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, practice a lot: a single scrap piece of wood offers plenty of opportunity. For what it's worth, I stopped beating myself over cuts that wandered off 1-3 degrees and bought a low-angle block plane, built a simple shooting board and now I can straighten a slightly skewed cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="335" LastEditorUserId="335" LastEditDate="2015-04-21T11:30:42.717" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T11:30:42.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="87" CreationDate="2015-04-21T13:47:29.957" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is one case where it is safe and beneficial to use gloves with power tools: when the tool is weak enough to stop without causing damage to your body parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I use cut resistant gloves when carving with Dremel. The bit is sharp enough to cut through skin (even quite badly), but the motor is weak enough that it will stall if it hits the glove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same can apply to many power tools used for detailed work. Also when working on details of small parts, it can be harder to keep adequate distance between hands and the cutter, in which case the additional protection is quite useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="441" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T13:47:29.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1067" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1070" CreationDate="2015-04-21T16:31:33.380" Score="14" ViewCount="2301" Body="&lt;p&gt;My straight router bit came in a little plastic box that has a hole that the shaft of the bit fits into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other half of the bit (i.e. with the two cutting edges) was covered in some transparent gel. From the way the gel looks it is obvious that the gel was applied in liquid form and then cured on/around the bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that this gel is there to seal the bit from air, especially moist air, to prevent corrosion. Please correct me if I'm wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it make sense to reapply the gel when storing the bit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found many images of bits being stored without such gels in simple wooden boxes. Does it depend on the bit?&#xA;Hardening steel changes its properties possibly making it more prone to corrosion.&#xA;Does it depend on the material of the bit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="443" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-04-22T17:29:48.867" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T21:48:44.787" Title="Should router bits be stored with the gel coating that came on them when they were originally purchased?" Tags="|storage|router-bit|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1067" CreationDate="2015-04-21T16:46:07.477" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't worry about it- for most bits other than straight bits, you won't get the protective gel off without tearing it up anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I keep those little packets of silica gel that seem to accompany many products today and throw one in any closed drawer or enclosed space. In my portable toolchest, I keep a piece of chalk or two, which also absorb moisture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T16:46:07.477" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1061" CreationDate="2015-04-21T16:49:33.143" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I set the blade to the minimum height that is required to make the cut, typically about 1/8&quot; above.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There isn't really a need to have it higher for purposes of clearing the sawdust.  If you look at the geometry of a table saw blade, the cutting action is happening at the front of the blade, as the cutters push through the wood.  The gullets will fill on the down stroke, and inertia will clear the gullets down into the body of the saw.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kickback occurs when the piece being cut is picked up by the back side of the blade, usually due to the saw kerf being pinched.  Having the blade lower reduces the length of the blade that is in the kerf, which can help reduce the chance of kickback (although a splitter or riving knife is far better).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastEditorUserId="11" LastEditDate="2017-11-10T15:23:27.263" LastActivityDate="2017-11-10T15:23:27.263" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1067" CreationDate="2015-04-21T17:10:03.473" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The gel is something similar to Stripcoat (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evanscoatings.com/&quot;&gt;http://www.evanscoatings.com/&lt;/a&gt;).  Prior to the bit being placed in individual packages, they can be bumped together.  The hot melt coating on them keeps the edges intact during handling.  Some of the coatings also have a layer of oil to protect against rust.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a few pounds of this stuff I keep in my shop for when I need to make a cover for a chisel or something that I want to protect the edge on.  It is handy stuff that can be re-melted and reused several times.  If you spend any time in a machine shop, you will see most finished parts dipped in this or something similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastEditorUserId="286" LastEditDate="2015-04-21T18:05:52.187" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T18:05:52.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1071" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-21T18:27:23.730" Score="5" ViewCount="961" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using black spruce, white spruce, and tamarack to make canoe setting poles 12' x 1 ½&quot; diameter. I look for standing green trees as straight as possible, maybe 1 ¾&quot; at 13' height, then debark them to dry out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What technique with any tools (other than a lathe) do you suggest I use to make a straight pole from these trees? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="444" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-04-21T23:11:16.050" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T03:51:17.477" Title="What technique and tools can I use to create a straight canoe pole from a green tree" Tags="|technique|tools|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1071" CreationDate="2015-04-21T18:29:05.727" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1040/what-are-spokeshaves-and-what-is-their-intended-use?s=1|0.4090&quot;&gt;spokeshave&lt;/a&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be a bit slow, but that's how they might have done it &quot;back in the day&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In more seriousness, a combination of &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/258/when-should-i-use-a-jointer-vs-a-planer?s=1|0.4797&quot;&gt;jointer and planer&lt;/a&gt; should get you a reasonably straight, square piece of stock, then the spokeshave would help you get it round from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An additional thought: Once you get the piece squared, tip your table saw blade at 45° and knock off all the corners. That will leave you with less to shave down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T19:33:56.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1071" CreationDate="2015-04-21T18:39:33.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you pointed out a lathe is the best design for this. spinning the wood to get an nice even turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Freeman pointed out a spokeshave would also work.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I might start with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=drawknife&amp;amp;rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS603US603&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;biw=1858&amp;amp;bih=1019&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;imgil=Mjuibpdec5Z1nM%253A%253B6AvFucvhHVj6CM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.history.org%25252Falmanack%25252Flife%25252Ftools%25252Ftldra.cfm&amp;amp;source=iu&amp;amp;pf=m&amp;amp;fir=Mjuibpdec5Z1nM%253A%252C6AvFucvhHVj6CM%252C_&amp;amp;usg=__GZUFcmVDeSwqlllshe4MQc5eeVU%3D&amp;amp;ved=0CFMQyjc&amp;amp;ei=x5g2VeetBorsyATXjoGgCQ#imgrc=Mjuibpdec5Z1nM%253A%3B6AvFucvhHVj6CM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.history.org%252Falmanack%252Flife%252Ftools%252Fimages%252Fdrawknife.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.history.org%252Falmanack%252Flife%252Ftools%252Ftldra.cfm%3B650%3B374&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;draw knives&lt;/a&gt;. I've used this to peel bark from trees, especially aspen.  (though spring time most trees peel easy).  It a can also be used to shave off the branch nubs as well, making it easier to use the spokeshave.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though buying dowels would by far be the easiest if you want them to pretty round...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T18:39:33.557" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1074" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1089" CreationDate="2015-04-21T18:45:39.697" Score="8" ViewCount="3068" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a piece of acacia that was already oiled. I cannot specify what kind of acacia that is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cut it to size and sanded the surface smooth.&#xA;As the sanding removed parts of the oiled wood, I applied some linseed oil (It was some left over from a can of oil bought from ikea. Called &quot;behandla&quot; and labelled &quot;linseed oil&quot;. It is still available.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I applied oil until the wood wouldn't soak it up any more.&#xA;After that I let it sit for a few days with puddles of oil on the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wiped off the excess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as soon as I first wiped the countertop with a wet cloth, it soaked up the water (I could clearly tell from the smell).&#xA;The surface that was very smooth after sanding got rough again. The fibers of wood are noticeable on the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not a problem for me, the wood looks rustic anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because this was the first time I ever did this, I would like to know:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I apply more oil? &lt;em&gt;I wonder how, because the wood soaked up&#xA;as much as it could&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I get the surface permanently smooth by sanding and applying oil&#xA;again? &lt;em&gt;Wood is a natural material after all, that takes and gives&#xA;humidity. Maybe it was dry and just needed a bit more water. Or maybe I have to adjust my expectations of what's possible with wood as a material?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I keep the oil in the wood? &lt;em&gt;I noticed that when I put&#xA;something heavy on the countertop, the surface of the wood becomes&#xA;oily. I think this is because the applied pressure forces the oil&#xA;out of the wood&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="443" LastEditorUserId="130" LastEditDate="2015-04-23T07:13:55.403" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T07:13:55.403" Title="How do I prepare and take care of a wooden countertop?" Tags="|water-protection|oiling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1020" CreationDate="2015-04-21T21:53:24.027" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends. On blotch prone woods such as pine, poplar, cherry, and maple, yes. On oak and walnut, it depends. A pre-stain conditioner can limit absorption and therefore the shade of the stain - it may not be as dark. Pre-stain conditioning will even out the color tone across the piece, and this may or may not be desirable, i.e. for a more rustic look don't condition. End grain, especially for red oak, will absorb much more stain. It can be conditioned by itself, but that can be difficult. I prefer to sand the end grain to ~600 and then burnish it with a polished piece of metal. This closes off the pores and limits absorption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are multiple approaches to pre-stain conditioning. The solvent based products I am aware of are simply solvents that are absorbed by the wood grain until saturated, and then begin evaporating. You need to stain within a time window - too early and not much stain is absorbed, too late and more blotching occurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thinned topcoat finishes, such as shellac and lacquer can be used. The problem is they dry quickly, and don't allow the uneven absorption by the wood grain to occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best conditioners are water based, and can be used with solvent or waterbased stains and topcoats. About any water based topcoat can be thinned 50/50 with water and used as a pre-stain conditioner. Also, PVA glues can be used, thinned with water 4-10 parts water to 1 part glue. I use Elmers Glue All 4 parts water to 1 part glue. It is the cheapest and dries clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water based are best because of the long open time and relatively quick dry time. The long open time allows the conditioner to be absorbed unevenly by the grain. the water evaporates leaving more sealer in the more porous areas resulting in more even stain absorption. It will not affect the amount of pigment deposited on the surface for a pigment type stain. It effects the dye portion of the colorant. Solvent poly could also be used (long open time) but has a very long dry time. I have not tested it and don't know the thinning ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apply the water based conditioner by flooding the surface (spray, brush, sponge, doesn't matter) then using a brush keep spreading and adding until the surface stops absorbing, then wipe it off with dry rags/paper towels and let dry. Sand lightly with either the last grit used or the next one up - remove the raised grain but don't cut too much away. Pine will swell significantly, and leveling the surface will remove the conditioner in spots. It needs a 2nd application. Stain and topcoat with solvent or waterbased products as usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, a coat of solvent poly (or a water based finish) can be applied over any of the conditioners described. Allow the solvent conditioner to evaporate completely, and let the water based conditioner dry, then apply the poly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is highly recommended to test any new finish or preparation method on scrap first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastEditorUserId="265" LastEditDate="2015-04-22T14:02:11.047" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T14:02:11.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1071" CreationDate="2015-04-22T03:43:49.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now that I have time ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spindle Turner&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bq2kh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In the comments for TX Turner's response to &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/814/how-can-i-fabricate-a-wooden-cone/816#816&quot;&gt;How can I fabricate a wooden cone?&lt;/a&gt;, there is discussion of using a jig which can make a cylinder from a large blank. Essentially it is a large box with a spindle on which the blank turns. A router rides on a sled along the top of the jig and can progressively remove stock. Examples are in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TUA3lryix64&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://customfurnitureandfab.com/how-to-make-fluted-or-beaded-columns&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this tutorial&lt;/a&gt;. These are for spindles of a few feet long, but I don't see any reason it couldn't be made longer ... you might have trouble with the piece sagging if it's too thin, so you might need to do somethign clever with rollers or the like once it starts getting nearer the desired radius.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would require that your green wood be &lt;strong&gt;very&lt;/strong&gt; straight, or you'll wind up with a very long toothpick at best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would probably start by using a bandsaw with some sort of wedge to trim it into a mostly square or octagonal blank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dowel Cutter&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O5M28.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be a dowel cutter. I don't know if there are commercial versions that large, but it shouldn't be too hard to make your own, similar to &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/GnarlyErik/blog/35575&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one.&lt;/a&gt; The dowel is fed through the cutter, spun by a drill or similar spinny device (technical term). I suppose you could alternatively twist it down by hand. Start with a large diameter and work it down until it's the diameter you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T03:51:17.477" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1077" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1079" CreationDate="2015-04-22T05:05:57.427" Score="12" ViewCount="10639" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in the process of designing a baby crib and am considering using vertical dowels for the sides.  I am not looking forward to purchasing dowels which are pricey, hard to find in quantity and quality, and don't show up in any but a few very common woods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking about making them from scratch.  I know it's foolish and/or impossible to do on a lathe.  Any advice on methods and pitfalls of DIY dowels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still in the design phase, but anticipate 5/8&quot; diameter by about 30&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-04-22T18:30:38.707" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T19:50:43.953" Title="How can I make my own dowels?" Tags="|dowel|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1077" CreationDate="2015-04-22T06:01:53.003" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Three methods I know of.  First is a dowel plate.  You trim your wood to approximate size and use a mallet to pound it through smaller and smaller holes until it is the size you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DX5Ou.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lie-Nelson Dowel Plate&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use a round over bit in a table mounted router.  Leave the ends square (to run along the fence), and pass all 4 corners across the appropriate sized round over bit.  You need to have a router fence and table that is about twice the length of the dowel you want to create.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cYaeE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;From Wood Magazine&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A third way, that I have never tried personally, is to use a table saw.  You make a jig to pass the piece through perpendicular to the blade and turn the piece to round the corners.  If you want to go this route, it deserves a full question and answer by itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9AKxz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Making dowels with the table saw&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, there are companies that make custom dowels out of a variety of woods.  If you need several long dowels, this might be a better way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T06:01:53.003" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1077" CreationDate="2015-04-22T07:57:04.023" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;LeeG's method of using a router table is good though you can add finger boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After getting the blanks nearly round with the router you can jig up a chisel in a block of wood so it ends up looking a bit like a pencil sharpener.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SZPIv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then with a hand-drill you can rotate the blank against the chisel so it ends up truly round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://woodgears.ca/dowel/making.html&quot;&gt;This article&lt;/a&gt; describes the full process in detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2015-04-22T17:03:42.467" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T17:03:42.467" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1080" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1088" CreationDate="2015-04-22T13:45:27.373" Score="20" ViewCount="193245" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before one can paint a piece of wood, it should be clean from any dust on its surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the recommended way to remove the dust?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried using&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a hand brush, &lt;em&gt;which only got rid of the rough bits and pieces&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a vacuum, &lt;em&gt;which worked great for the most part, but did not&#xA;remove the very fine dust. The suction could cause the nozzle to bump into the surface and leave scratches&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a glue soaked cloth (called &quot;tack cloth&quot;) from the hardware store, &lt;em&gt;which was intended for&#xA;exactly that purpose and got the job done. Working with it was not&#xA;very nice though, reusability is questionable and who knows what&#xA;kind of stuff is used to make it sticky.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess that a wet cloth has similar sticky properties than the aforementioned shop bought cloth, but has the disadvantage of applying moisture to the wood (leading to warped wood).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a better/recommended way to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="443" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2015-04-22T17:12:22.183" LastActivityDate="2021-02-28T03:38:41.337" Title="How to remove dust after sanding before applying paint/oil/glue?" Tags="|sawdust|surface-preparation|tack-cloth|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1080" CreationDate="2015-04-22T13:48:40.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to use a soft terry cloth to wipe down before I apply finish. So far it has worked well for me in getting the fine dust off the wood. On wood with larger open grain (like padouk) I sometimes will blast it with air from the air compressor as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="189" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T13:48:40.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1080" CreationDate="2015-04-22T13:50:57.940" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of sucking it up you can blow it away using compressed air (or just your lungs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A moist (not wet) cloth will minimize the water you apply to the wood. A micro-fibre cloth is dry but will also have a very good dust grabbing properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T13:50:57.940" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1080" CreationDate="2015-04-22T13:54:20.410" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your item #3 is called a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tack_cloth&quot;&gt;tack cloth&lt;/a&gt; and is quite commonly used for removing dust, because, as you noted, it's quite effective, and it's a highly recommended solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the linked Wikipedia article, there may be some &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volatile_organic_compound&quot;&gt;VOC&lt;/a&gt; concerns, however, with increasing environmental regulations, those are either A) listed on the packaging, or B) being phased out of the manufacturing process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2015-04-22T14:09:46.193" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T14:09:46.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1084" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1086" CreationDate="2015-04-22T14:35:07.913" Score="6" ViewCount="5914" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to make a couple of houses for owls and bats around my property to help control vermin. I've been looking on youtube.com at the owl houses and being one of those people who tend to go a little overboard with detail, I see all kinds of things I don't like. I saw one woman build an owl box where she designed the top with vents that would literally direct rainfall down into the box. I also saw lots of other things I didn't like, such as screws in the roof that will allow an entry point for water and many other things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to put vents up the side, but I don't want rain running in. To accomplish this, I'd like to make them angle up into the box at a roughly 30-45 degree angle. I'd like to know the best way to do this. My first thought is to take a circular saw and set the angle on its blade. I'm not sure if mine is capable of that or not. I also have access to a table saw. It seems like it'd be simple to set the angle and cut a line, but how do you get the blade into the board? You can easily make and interior cut with a table saw or circular saw by setting it down into the board, but at an angle, it doesn't seem like it'd work the same. Can anyone tell me how to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, these are just vent holes, probably about 5-6&quot; long in a 1&quot;x10-12&quot; board. I don't want to make straight cuts and then add an angled vent on the outside as it won't last and will be a week spot. I'm basically wanting to add a few angled slots and inch or two apart. Thanks for the help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Here is a mock up of what I'm trying to do. Let me know if it's not clear and I'll try to do better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RqFuO.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="232" LastEditorUserId="232" LastEditDate="2015-04-22T20:53:09.433" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T01:19:36.180" Title="How to make a louver vent in a board?" Tags="|technique|table-saw|circular-saw|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1085" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1087" CreationDate="2015-04-22T14:42:52.150" Score="7" ViewCount="9079" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm asking a few wood working question in relation to an owl box I'm making to put on my property. My question is about drain holes in this and any bird box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've always put drain holes in bird houses I've made, because they've called for them. However, they don't make much sense to me. It seems like any bedding or nesting material would absorb any pee, and there wouldn't be enough to need draining. I'd also think that general debris would clog any drain holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, do you guys think that drain holes are necessary? The only real use I can think of is that they might be for any rain that gets in. However, if nesting material and bird crap get in them and clog them up, they wouldn't even drain that. It seems to me that it'd be more important for air circulation to get rid of any toxic fumes like ammonia from the pee and to evaporate any liquids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, if you think they are necessary, how do you recommend doing them. Would you just use holes, slots, or like some I've seen, would you chamfer the corners of the bottom so you have a vent on each corner? Will any liquid even run to these vents or would you need to work the wood to have some kind of slope to direct it to the corner holes? Thanks for the help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="232" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-04-22T16:47:50.067" LastActivityDate="2024-03-06T21:03:53.920" Title="Are drain holes in a wooden bird house necessary, and if so, what's the best way to make them?" Tags="|technique|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1084" CreationDate="2015-04-22T14:45:14.323" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;About the saw idea you have&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you have some sort of safe jig I would recommend against using something like a table saw to push the board onto the blade &lt;em&gt;especially&lt;/em&gt; at an angle. I don't personally see a way that it is not dangerous. If the board kicks back you could fall onto the blade. (Sorry if I misinterpreted what you meant/intended. It just seemed like a bad idea)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Have the vent located on the side&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If instead of making a contraption, like I will suggest below this, it occurs to me you could just cut the slats in from one side or both. Make as many as needed with the angled cuts on the table saw. Optionally you could glue a small board on the end to seal it. I think the blades are 1/8&quot; inches so several of those at an angle should provide ample circulation. A just grabbed a junk board and cut into it with my mitre saw. Could easily do this with a table saw and some measuring. The picture on the right shows what it would look like &quot;assembled&quot; after it was cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/npItZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image courtesy of ME!&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Make your own vent&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This might be a little more effort than its worth but it is a possibility. There is another easier idea below the picture that might be more efficient for your application. The following is easier to do the larger the board.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I was experimenting I would cut the hole in the board, with a jigsaw or something similar, where the vent would be and make a separate unit that I would insert into the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make that insert, use the table saw to make &lt;em&gt;straight&lt;/em&gt; small boards that will make up the vent &quot;slats&quot;. Then a small box the size of the hole that will house these slats. Depending on how big the house is you might be able to skip making a separate box and use the board to continue with the next step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The box will have dadoes to hold the slats in place. You can use your table saw with a miter gauge, miter sled, or crosscut sled with stop blocks to cut the dadoes in the sides. I'm terrible at describing things. Look at this picture to get an idea. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0voEV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;custom vent&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://s3.amazonaws.com/PDFPlans/build-wood-louvered-vent.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;WoodWorking Plans&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This picture is obviously for a vent on a house but the design should be very scaleable for a small animal house. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Upcycle approach&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another idea that occurred to me would be to find a garbage or cheap set of wooden blinds that could be easily incorporated into your board as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-04-22T23:11:57.560" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T23:11:57.560" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1085" CreationDate="2015-04-22T15:55:36.420" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Drain holes are necessary&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously the inhabitants of the house still have to get in somehow. Seal it up all you want but they will need an entrance. That entrance would be a means to allow rain to enter (I suppose maybe ambient moisture as well). Yes, you will have an overhang but wind will still push water in. Some styles of house don't have effective overhangs especially larger ones, like bird hotels, where they cannot cover all spaces efficiently. Yours will not be the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Urine is not really an issue. Like you said it would most likely be absorbed in the nest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your choice of wood sitting water could encourage the wood to rot which you don't want. As mentioned in a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.drsfostersmith.com/pic/article.cfm?articleid=2194&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Birdhouse Selection Guide&lt;/a&gt; mold would also be a concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Make sure your birdhouse has drain holes in the bottom to let out water. This is important to keep mold and bacteria from multiplying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Make your holes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One in each corner would be best so that no matter which orientation of the birdhouse the water can exit somewhere. Small 1/4&quot; holes would be more than sufficient and then let gravity do the work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Need to be careful though as too many could allow more wind to get in reducing the overall temperature. So don't get all hole happy. Birds might not like that and would either not nest there or could move. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Summary&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall it does seem like a good idea to at least have the one drain hole. This allows for a little air circulation as well. Sure debris would get in there but doubt it makes and air/water tight seal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sidenote&lt;/strong&gt;: Also as a birdhouse owners we are supposed to check for debris and such things after the inhabitants have moved out as part of proper maintenance. This is to extend the houses life. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-04-22T20:05:35.513" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T20:05:35.513" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1080" CreationDate="2015-04-22T17:08:53.363" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a better/recommended way to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the methods you list are recommended ways of removing dust from the workpiece. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brushing is actually a very good way to get dust off wood, and for many woodworkers it's the main method they rely on. It's just that you usually can't do it properly with only one brush. You can use a large soft hand brush to get the worst of it off but you need switch to something with stiffer bristles for the finer stuff. Paintbrushes work well for this and their small size makes them good at getting into corners. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people swear by tack cloths*, others don't like them because they hate how they feel and they worry that they'll leave a residue behind which will cause problems with the final finish (this doesn't appear to be much of a concern however).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I guess that a wet cloth has similar sticky properties than the aforementioned shop bought cloth, but has the disadvantage of applying moisture to the wood (leading to warped wood).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real 'danger' to this is not warped wood, normally wood has to get really wet for there to be a risk of warping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you would worry about is raised grain (surface wood fibres swelling due to soaking up water). But this doesn't happen if you moisten the cloth with mineral spirits, acetone or very pure alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A very good modern material to wipe with that isn't often recommended is microfibre cloth. The very same surface texture that makes these so good at cleaning glass and polished surfaces make them very good at removing traces of fine dust from tiny imperfections in the wood surface. A lightly dampened microfibre cloth may be the best way to remove dust from sanded wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;* &lt;strong&gt;Homemade tack cloth&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can make your own quite easily, from a clean scrap of lint-free cloth (old sheets and t-shirts can be good donors for the fabric), a few drops of varnish, the appropriate solvent for the varnish and a little water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T17:08:53.363" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1074" CreationDate="2015-04-22T17:55:58.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I applied oil until the wood wouldn't soak it up any more. After that I let it sit for a few days with puddles of oil on the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wiped off the excess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if this was the application method recommended on the tin but this is the wrong way to oil wood. The correct application method is to apply a generous coating, let it sit for between 20 minutes to a couple of hours at most and then to wipe off every trace of excess from the surface with clean cloths or paper towels. When you're done the wood should no longer feel oily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This needs to be repeated multiple times. A traditional oiled finish on wood is not a quick process because of the number of coats called for and the necessary 'drying' time. 15 or more coats would not have been unusual in the past and this took a very long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One traditional application regimen is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;One coat per day for a week, one coat a week for a month, one coat per month for a year, then one coat per year for life.&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most people don't have the time or patience for this today, but you want to build up at least 4-7 coats and let them cure for good durability. So in addition to not building up coats there hasn't been sufficient time for the oil to 'dry' (oils of this type don't actually dry, they &lt;em&gt;cure&lt;/em&gt; by a process called oxidative polymerisation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But beyond that there is the fact that oiled finishes are actually not especially waterproof. Proper water-resistance is only provided by a film-building finish, for example a varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Safety note&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Using a drying oil such as linseed oil you must take care to dispose of any oil-soaked rags or paper properly. They are a significant fire hazard as they don't need an ignition source, if left wadded up they can spontaneously combust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So either dry flat on the floor (once dry they are no longer a combustion risk), or put into a suitable metal or glass container with plenty of water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T17:55:58.233" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1077" CreationDate="2015-04-22T18:15:37.387" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried several methods. I'll list them below and comment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using Mattias Wandel's &quot;pencil sharpener&quot; method. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A03bI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This works moderately well but I found that the dowels had spiral grooves in them. Also, the wood broke over time, so I got sick of it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodworkersinstitute.com/page.asp?p=977&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;router table&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pRHwy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This didn't work at all for me. There was too much force required to push the dowel through (although, I could have messed up somehow).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Router table roundover bit. This was mentioned by @LeeG. This worked great. It didn't make them perfectly round, but it was easy to chuck it in my drill and finish it off with some sand paper. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w4OEJfa6PtE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Izzy Swan's method&lt;/a&gt;. I actually haven't tried this yet. The basic idea is that you drill a hole through steel. That hole will have a burr and that burr becomes a cutter as you feed wood through on a drill.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-04-13T19:50:43.953" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T19:50:43.953" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1074" CreationDate="2015-04-22T18:22:29.653" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you certain you want an oil finish? Will you be using it as a cutting board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know a lot of blogs/websites suggest an oil finish because it's advertised as food-safe, but all finishes are food safe when fully cured (except for led-based finishes). I just installed butcherblock countertops from ikea (see image below). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t3tpd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used a polyurethane (varnish) and am VERY glad I did. Not only does it resist dents and scratches, but it protects the wood in other ways such as from water damage. Case in point--one of my kids left their school papers on the counter and another kid spilled water over it. It wasn't until the next day that I noticed the ink had bled through onto the countertops. I just wiped it with dish soap and it was gone. (Which wouldn't happen if it only had an oil finish). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T18:22:29.653" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1023" CreationDate="2015-04-22T18:30:41.827" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let me add a couple things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Here's two references for making one: &lt;a href=&quot;http://woodgears.ca/delta_saw/insert.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mattias Wandel's method&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/tablesaw/zero-clearance-insert/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Woodmagazine's&lt;/a&gt; method. And here's what it looks like:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WDRZF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're typically made out of plywood or MDF to prevent wood movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Others have mentioned that they're used for two reasons (1) to reduce chipout and (2) to prevent pieces from falling through the hold. Let me add a third: to improve dust collection. When you have a zero-clearance insert, it leaves less room for sawdust to spill onto the table (and directs it down the dust chute). Or at least that's what I've heard. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T18:30:41.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1040" CreationDate="2015-04-22T18:46:32.690" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;To understand its use, remember that the bed of the plan is very short compared to a hand plane. If there's any sort of arc in wood (concave), your plane may not cut at all because it will bridge the gaps. But with a much smaller bed, a spokeshave will cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of examples where I've used it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I have an &lt;em&gt;intentionally&lt;/em&gt; curved piece. Suppose I'm making a curved chair leg. As I said, a handplane will bridge the curve and not cut. Or (even worse) if it does cut, it will slowly whittle away at your curve. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I have an &lt;em&gt;unintentionally&lt;/em&gt; curved piece. Let's say I've assembled a chair and didn't notice until after glue-up that the stretcher was a bit proud of the legs. Let's also suppose the stretcher is a bit bowed (concave). If I try to hand plane it to make the stretcher flush, the front of my plane will bridge that curve. A spokeshave will not, so I can make the two ends flush. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find that your handplane is not cutting at all (even if you can clearly see that the blade is protruding from the sole), it's probably because it's bridging the gaps. Try hitting it with a spokeshave and see if that does it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple other tips to avoiding tearout:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plane &lt;em&gt;with&lt;/em&gt; the grain. If you plane against the grain, there's a good chance of tearout. To identify the direction the grain is going, look at the side adjacent to the surface you're planing. If the lines are relatively straight, it doesn't matter which direction you plane. If they're going up or down *remember to plane &quot;up-hill.&quot; That will ensure you're going with the grain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take very small shavings. The larger the shavings, the higher the chance of tearout. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T18:46:32.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1094" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1095" CreationDate="2015-04-22T18:48:25.397" Score="11" ViewCount="4413" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an extraordinarily cheap table saw that I'm trying to use to cut out a bookcase.  The table is too small (I only have about 11&quot; between the fence and the blade), the fence is nearly useless (it takes about 10 minutes to get it and verify that it's square) and I don't even want to think about the guide.  I don't really want to toss it in the trash and get a better one (mostly because I'm renting the house and I don't have the space).  I'd like to retrofit this one so that it's actually usable.  Does anybody have any practical ideas of what I can do, or even better, plans, to make this saw usable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="447" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-04-22T18:52:39.390" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T15:45:29.800" Title="Using a cheap table saw" Tags="|table-saw|tool-repair|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1094" CreationDate="2015-04-22T18:52:53.610" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can check out this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R6_O9AeQQHc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;youtube video&lt;/a&gt;. This guy makes some great improvements to the saw but &lt;em&gt;does not include a riving knife in his design.&lt;/em&gt; That's very dangerous, but I'm sure it would be helpful as you attempt to refurbish the table-saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some improvements that can be made to any table saw to improve its performance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/39002/build-a-super-precise-tablesaw-crosscut-sled&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Create a cross-cut sled&lt;/a&gt;. As long as the miter slot is parallel with the saw blade, you will get dead-on 90 degree cuts which are going to be more precise than you'd get with a miter saw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MYt7P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://jayscustomcreations.com/2013/03/adding-a-table-saw-extension-wing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Build a table-saw wing&lt;/a&gt;. This will significantly add to your ripping capacity and it will add weight to the saw, making it less prone to vibration (and topping over). &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/65fYM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://jayscustomcreations.com/2014/04/an-easy-table-saw-outfeed-table-that-can-be-completely-customized-to-your-needs/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Build an outfeed table.&lt;/a&gt; This prevents the workpiece from falling after its been cut, which is a whole lot more safe.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ViirQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;4&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Buy or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t2IqUOLUxhs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;build&lt;/a&gt; an after-market fence. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/tablesaw/zero-clearance-insert/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;zero-clearance insert&lt;/a&gt; to prevent chip-out, improve dust collection, and prevent pieces from falling into the dust chute.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wuV3c.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=11&amp;amp;ved=0CE8QFjAK&amp;amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.finewoodworking.com%2Fworkshop%2Farticle%2Fdust-proof-any-tablesaw.aspx&amp;amp;ei=IxM5Va_UCo7roASj5IGYCg&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNGKDno2NjognkpV-G2yZtjq2xV2eg&amp;amp;sig2=Apf0bsgbI_GjrcyTwuNytg&amp;amp;bvm=bv.91427555,d.cGU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Enclose the table saw to improve dust collection.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to that, you can always add jigs to make your saw more versatile (e.g., box joint jig, tenon jig, jointer jig). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastEditorUserId="3" LastEditDate="2015-04-23T15:45:29.800" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T15:45:29.800" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1094" CreationDate="2015-04-22T18:53:18.693" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't indicate what brand of table saw you have, but you might look into a replacement fence to give you more accuracy. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/how-to/fence-systems-accurate-table-ripping&quot;&gt;first&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Retrofitting-A-Delta-T2-Fence-to-a-Craftsman-Table/&quot;&gt;three&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/very-super-cool-tools-after-market-tablesaw-fence/&quot;&gt;examples&lt;/a&gt; from a Google search on replacement/replacing fences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your skills and space, you may also be able to attach some extensions to the table to give yourself some more work room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T18:53:18.693" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1080" CreationDate="2015-04-22T19:07:04.523" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recommend an intial pass with a shop vac, which will capture probably 95% of the dust. It is good to use a shop vac to clean the surface between sanding grits, removing the larger grit particles from the wood before sanding with the next higher grit. While blowing the dust off with compressed air removes the dust, it also mixes it into the air so some of it can settle back onto the surface and so you can breath it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get the last 5%, tack cloths are ok if using solvent based stains/dyes/top coats. Do not use tack cloths if using water based stains/dyes/top coats. Microfiber cloths are excellent dry &quot;tack cloths&quot; - they do not need to be wet or tacky with anything, so there are no worries about contaminating the surface before using a either type of stain/dyes/top coat. Also, microfiber cloths can be re-used multiple times - simply take them outside and shake the dust out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T19:07:04.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24" CreationDate="2015-04-22T19:21:46.483" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;End grain absorbs more stain/finish due to the capillary action of the wood fibers. In red oak they act like straws and just suck up a large amount of stain/finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sealing the end grain with various conditioners (glue size, thinned finish) works, but it is difficult to get the liquid on just the end grain, resulting in a blotchy look. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sand the end grain to 600, and then burnish it with a piece of polished metal. This crushes the &quot;straw&quot; fibers, preventing the capillary action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T19:21:46.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1009" CreationDate="2015-04-22T19:40:46.060" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;BLO is an easy but limited finish. It is not very protective, can seep months later with temperature change, is fairly time consuming due to long dry times and multiple coats, and requires solvent type dyes to mix. I use a water based BLO emulsion stain base from Target Coatings, EM4000, that looks identical to BLO but dries in 2 hours, can be tinted with water based dyes (I use Transtint), can be recoated, used as a topcoat, and can be top coated with solvent or water based finishes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T19:40:46.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1084" CreationDate="2015-04-22T20:32:41.147" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Matt's method is the preferred way of making louvres, but it &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; possible to make them in a manner similar to the method you originally described. You mentioned making plunge cuts into the middle of a board to cut louvres into a single solid piece of wood using a circular saw or table saw with the blade tilted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are correct to question the method you originally considered, because it would be unsafe to make a cut like this with a tilted blade. When making plunge cuts, the blade's direction of travel should be parallel with the blade's sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of using a circular saw or table saw, you can use a compound miter saw. Set the bevel angle (tilting the blade), position and clamp your workpiece in place, then plunge the blade into the workpiece. Slide the workpiece over a little and repeat as many times as necessary to create a thick enough slot. Repeat for as many slots as you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what if you don't have a miter saw and you still want to use this method? You make a special jig to hold the wood at an angle as you raise the table saw blade into it, but this wouldn't be very practical since the blade probably only raises a little over 3&quot; high. That means you could probably only cut a few slots into a board. If you need a 12x12 louvre, you'd probably have to cut the board into strips, cut 2 or 3 slots into each strip, then glue the strips back together. This seems like a lot more trouble than Matt's solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using any plunge-cut method with a circular-shaped saw blade will also produce some ugly results since the edges of your cut will have curvy angles at the two ends of each plunge cut, due to the shape of the saw blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T20:32:41.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="285" CreationDate="2015-04-22T20:53:49.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not much equipment overlap between spindle and bowl turning. Most lathes will accomodate both. For spindles, be more concerned with the length of the bed, for bowls it is the swing, which equals the largest diameter that can be turned, except some lathes have pivoting heads so larger pieces can be turned at 90° to the bed. The larger the bowl, the slower the lathe needs to turn. The surface speed of the wood going past the tool is the important factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spindle turning requires drive spurs and centers, bowl turning requires chucks and/or faceplates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About the only chisels really used for both are a parting tool and scrapers. Scrapers for bowls need to be thicker, but the thicker scrapers can be used for spindles. A skew can be used some with bowls, but mainly spindles. The gouges are different for specific reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bench grinder with friable wheels and a jig system for sharpening is really needed for a beginner (I still use a jig system - much better for me). Can be used for both spindle and bowl tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with the prices from bowlturner and will add:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sharpening: grinder and jig system ~$200 and up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turning Chisels: ~$20-$25 per tool for the cheaper brands that work just fine. A 1/2&quot; bowl gouge alone would get you started. A couple of scrapers, 3/4&quot;-1&quot; one square and one curved will help with surface finish. A bowl could be turned with scrapers alone. A drill powered sanding set up is nice but not necessary.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T20:53:49.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1102" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1127" CreationDate="2015-04-22T23:04:21.853" Score="15" ViewCount="839" Body="&lt;p&gt;I enjoyed doing woodwork back in high school, but I haven't been able to do any since I started college. I want to get into it, but I lack the tools I had at the school shop, and similarly the space. Any recommendations/advice for starting with a college students budget and limited space? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: To be more precise on what my budget and space constraints are, my funds are probably sub $300 for now and space is a small shed (probably 8' X 6' usable space) on the property I rent. I don't know what kind of projects I want to do exactly, I really just want to explore and work with my hands. Graphus' answer seems like it will be a good starting place, but if these details help at all feel free to give your own answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT2: After some thought, my initial interest is in building furniture to use in my home. I usually go for function over form, but want to move away from that and make pieces that are both useful, and look good. My past experience was mostly power tools so my hand tool experience is limited. I feel I'd be able to learn to use them and deal with the longer time it takes to make things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="450" LastEditorUserId="450" LastEditDate="2015-04-23T18:28:52.527" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T07:43:05.277" Title="What is the best way to get started with limited funds and space?" Tags="|tools|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1080" CreationDate="2015-04-22T23:41:22.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a pinch I once used an old t-shirt lightly sprayed with hair-spray. The spray then dried on the cloth for a few seconds before use.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It worked surprisingly well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="371" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T23:41:22.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1085" CreationDate="2015-04-23T02:08:44.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Holes may be necessary to allow air movement, depending on design and craftsmanship.  In the natural world, bird make nests and select houses  from a variety of materials, depending on species and habitat. They don't make waterproof, airtight houses or nests. Birds that will nest in your bird house also nest in cavities in trees, formed from damage, cracks, etc. These cavities aren't waterproof nor airtight, but they all share a common feature: the entrance hole size is species specific. Smaller holes keep out larger birds &amp;amp; predators, protecting the nesting eggs- think house wren vs. starling, for example. So, you should research that portion of the design. The material used in the bird house is also important- you want something that can breath- like unfinished wood, not painted, sealed, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="444" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T02:08:44.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="895" CreationDate="2015-04-23T03:00:37.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, thanks for all the contributions, but the answer seems to be almost right away. I found a website that explored the historical aspects of wooden boat building.  What I discovered was that the chief advantages of &quot;clinker&quot; boats is that the wood can be relatively green when building the boat.  I also got a moisture meter and I am currently at 18%, down from 32% a week ago (all air dry with stickers throughout).&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bertan.gipuzkoakultura.net/23/ing/11.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Clinker construction&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="383" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T03:00:37.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1102" CreationDate="2015-04-23T10:48:27.353" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with the comments above that this question is a little too broad, but &quot;college student's budget&quot; and &quot;limited space&quot; give at least a starting point and I can offer a few pointers based on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not only for budget reasons you're looking at primarily a hand-tool approach. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the cost of power tools working with hand tools is quieter (so people who share a floor or walls with your room won't be disturbed by loud motors late at night) and will generate less dust. Hand-tool processes tend to generate flakes and shavings and little dust (which is also coarser), much easier to clean up than large volumes of fine dust as generated by power sanding for example. Fine dusts are also more of a health hazard if you're working in or adjacent to where you sleep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need a good solid surface to work on. There are a couple of simple approaches adopted for this for those without a dedicated working space, one being modification of an existing piece of furniture (e.g. a stout kitchen table) with a lift-on/lift-off woodworking surface. The second is by building a smaller knock-down woodworking bench which can either fold flat to be stored leaning against a wall, or break down into pieces which can then be slid under the bed, behind the sofa etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two examples of the first approach are given in the following images: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RssPh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Benchtop for kitchen table&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;em&gt;Woodwork&lt;/em&gt; magazine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q4H4g.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Milkman&amp;#39;s workbench&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: LostArt Press.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a good example of the second is this, the Apartment Workbench:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G7MqJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.closegrain.com/2013/12/apartment-workbench.html&quot;&gt;Close Grain blog&lt;/a&gt;. Full build instructions and parts list at this link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some discussion on the requirements of the casual woodworker can also be found in a classic book on woodworking which is available free on Project Gutenberg: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/43604&quot;&gt;Woodworking for Beginners&lt;/a&gt;, by Charles G. Wheeler. This book is a wealth of information for the hand-tools-only approach to woodworking so well worth downloading to your hard drive to refer to as you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to tools. There are a great many tools you can get but what is required is probably mostly driven by the nature of what you're making. The above book gives a good idea of the hand tools required for a large amount of work to be successfully carried out, but you don't need all of these immediately. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One common piece of advice given today is to buy tools as you need them for specific projects, eventually building up a collection that will allow you to do a wide range of projects. Buying tools secondhand, e.g. from flea markets, car-boot sales, estate sales, thrift stores and sites such as Craigslist is a good way to get older and vintage/antique tools that can be extremely good value (often better made than modern equivalents) and can perform excellently with a little cleanup and fettling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My minimum list for smaller projects would be something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;at least one saw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;some cheap chisels (e.g. from Harbor Freight)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;low-angle block plane&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;some sharpening supplies for the chisels and the plane's blade (commonly referred to as an iron)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a strop (can be made very simply and inexpensively)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a drill of some kind and a range of bits to drill holes in common sizes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a pencil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;steel rule (both for measuring and for use as a straightedge)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a carpenter's square&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;one or more card scrapers (minimise the use of sandpaper)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;some clamps (the more the better, literally buy as many as you can afford)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;woodworking adhesive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;abrasive papers (wet &amp;amp; dry types are not intended for wood but can be washed clean when they become clogged with sanding dust and dried for re-use)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sharpening supplies are a &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt;. Most edged woodworking tools are not supplied sharp and must be sharpened before first use, and regularly maintained afterwards to keep them properly sharp. A sharp tool works better and is actually safer because it requires less force in use. Periodic stropping is the best way to maintain sharpness quickly and easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would list these as desirable but not immediately essential:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a marking knife (a craft knife or boxcutter can work adequately here)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a smoothing plane (Stanley type no. 3, 4 or 4 1/2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a bevel gauge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a marking gauge (this can be made by the woodworker, many plans available for free online)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a flat-bottomed spokeshave&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than this answer running even longer, ask a follow-up question about jigs that the woodworker can make for improving the efficiency of handwork operations and I'll provide a pictorial list. This will include a bench hook (sawing aid) and a shooting board (planing aid).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T10:48:27.353" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1080" CreationDate="2015-04-23T13:23:20.407" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Swiffer&quot; dusters have worked well for me in the past&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="413" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T13:23:20.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1108" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-23T13:36:35.540" Score="4" ViewCount="651" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wish to build a tail vise using the Shop Fox D3258 Bench Screw (&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00012XCCA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Link to Amazon&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This bench screw comes with the screw itself and the cast-iron mount for moving the block in the table, however it does not come with a way to secure the handle to your bench, presumably because there are so many potential ways of executing the mounting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone mentioned in a forum elsewhere that one could fashion a wooden washer to hold the piece in place, but I'm not sure how one would execute that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: given an inner diameter of approximately 1&quot;, with a slot approximately 1/4&quot;, what is the best way to produce a washer or garter out of hardwood that could hold the bench screw from unscrewing out of the vise?  Should I get 1/4&quot; stock, jigsaw two crescents and then screw them together over the slot in the bench screw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T13:47:26.867" Title="How do I make a wooden garter/captive washer?" Tags="|tool-maintenance|jig|design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1108" CreationDate="2015-04-23T13:47:26.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well One thing I can envision is to take a piece of lumber (3/4&quot;-1&quot;? ) and if you have a way to tap it to have the same threads as your clamp  have it turned on up to the handle, when you tighten it down to lock it from the front.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/435Lv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The nut&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T13:47:26.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1084" CreationDate="2015-04-23T14:12:55.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A router with a long endmill can do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cut one basic vent slot straight down on a plank to be used as a template. Secure the template at an angle to your louver board and use a extended reach endmill in the router to plunge cut the vent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="453" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T14:12:55.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="87" CreationDate="2015-04-23T14:25:27.173" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some gloves are designed to work with a specific power tool, such as chainsaw gloves. In these cases, it is OK to use those specific gloves with their corresponding tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="453" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-04-23T14:45:07.613" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T14:45:07.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1112" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1114" CreationDate="2015-04-23T15:14:48.533" Score="7" ViewCount="5303" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen videos related to cutting circles on a table saw.  I would love to try this but I am hesitant to make a jig that, to me, seems to be extremely dangerous.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/z-xhYnWDCd0?t=33&quot;&gt;Here is a video&lt;/a&gt; of Matthias Wandel using his jig to cut a rabbet into the circle, which seems like it'd be even scarier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does one make this jig and do so safely?  Are there any gotchas that should be considered when executing this jig?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastEditorUserId="34" LastEditDate="2015-04-23T16:16:32.140" LastActivityDate="2023-12-13T18:03:11.083" Title="How does one make a perfect circle on a table saw?" Tags="|table-saw|jig|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1112" CreationDate="2015-04-23T15:20:08.617" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm of the same mind, Peter. All the plans I've seen require removal of too much safety equipment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are too many other tools that would suffice- from a band saw for smaller circles to a jig saw or router on a commercial or shop made trammel for large ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e.g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Band saw-&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fyBVj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;band saw circle jig&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or router..&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gS2EE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Router circle jig&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or for a jig saw..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hu0rj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;jigsaw&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2015-04-23T15:32:05.383" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T15:32:05.383" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1112" CreationDate="2015-04-23T15:32:17.390" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a sled and add a pivot as far away from the blade as you want your radius. (riving knife and guards can remain in place)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As preparation rough cut your piece on the band-saw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jskvv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://woodgears.ca/bandsaw/cut_outline.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://woodgears.ca/bandsaw/wheels.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then put your piece on the sled and attach it to the pivot. Clamp it down to avoid the piece rotating while you are cutting and make a cut. Unclamp, rotate, clamp and cut again; rinse and repeat until it is round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get it perfectly round while not rotating the wood against the blade is nearly impossible. The last passes would require very accurate turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead if you have a motor and some shaft and bearings handy you can attach you can attach a pully to the wheel and work on it like a lathe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qcWBv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://woodgears.ca/bandmill/wheels.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main advantage of this last step is that you are turning the wheel on its own axle so even if you make a mistake when mounting the bearings/putting it on the shaft you can true out the wobble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2015-04-23T15:40:04.300" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T15:40:04.300" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1112" CreationDate="2015-04-23T15:36:46.243" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I think makes most of such jigs dangerous is that they allow rotation of the work piece &lt;strong&gt;while cutting&lt;/strong&gt;. That is not a safety issue per se, but at the begging of the process, the work piece is not a circle at all which makes it awkward to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I suggest&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use a sacrificial board like a table saw sled, this will become the &quot;jig&quot;, but it really is just a sacrificial board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the circle-to-be board on top of it, mark the center (depending&#xA;on the desired radius) and place is accordingly (there should be the&#xA;a distance between the blade and the center as big as the desired&#xA;radius)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Screw the upper board to the sled. Position the screw at the center&#xA;of the radius&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add a second screw. This one locks the upper board from spinning&#xA;around.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Feed that into the saw. This is not different from any other two&#xA;board being securely connected. It's just &quot;one thicker board&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull back, unscrew the second screw, rotate the top board a bit,&#xA;srew the second screw back in. Go to 5. until you have a&#xA;sufficiently round work piece.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are just my thoughts. I do not have a table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with TX Turner that other tools might be better suited for this task or will be much safer to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="443" LastEditorUserId="443" LastEditDate="2015-04-23T15:48:26.143" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T15:48:26.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1116" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1119" CreationDate="2015-04-23T16:50:42.877" Score="16" ViewCount="21153" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tF5aG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Plywood lounger, source unknown&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw this photo of a lounger made out of plywood, and I am pretty certain it would be easy to execute with a jigsaw, sandpaper and patience, but one thing I've never tried is to bring an entire sheet of 4&amp;nbsp;ft x 8&amp;nbsp;ft plywood home. I usually buy smaller project boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that I don't have any other warm bodies to help move a whole sheet of plywood, what is the best way to lug a full sheet into a workshop, assuming there is enough clearance to get a full sheet in the door in the first place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-06-26T02:15:34.850" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T21:56:06.017" Title="How can I safely move complete 4 ft x 8 ft sheets of plywood alone?" Tags="|safety|plywood|materials|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1116" CreationDate="2015-04-23T16:59:12.587" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are commercial handles that are supposed to make carrying plywood easier, but they're not inexpensive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simplest way I've carried sheet goods is with a loop of rope caught on the corners. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e.g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8MiTg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/photos/0,,20473628_20924275,00.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T16:59:12.587" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1116" CreationDate="2015-04-23T17:08:21.243" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming of course that you have no problem with the weight, I just stand the board on the long edge, go to the middle of the board tip it maybe on my foot or some other thing to get my hand under it then with the other hand balance it, pick it up, and carry it.  A lot like this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0i5fI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/epz2s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have strange passages you need to maneuver around you might have to get into the front and drag it, though getting a little roller skate or something on the back end might help save the carpet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend wearing gloves, since that stuff tends to give slivers. The 1&quot; boards can get a little heavy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T17:08:21.243" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1116" CreationDate="2015-04-23T17:25:04.833" Score="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a Stanley Panel Carry (Model 93-300).  It is about $7.00 on Amazon or at Home Depot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For cutting panels, the best way is to get a sheet of foam insulation, and lay it on the ground and put the panel on top of it.  Cut through the panel into the foam.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tiP9O.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T17:25:04.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1116" CreationDate="2015-04-23T17:27:35.530" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are panel carriers which range from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/p/Stanley-Panel-Carry-Orange-93-300K/202262083&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;inexpensive&lt;/a&gt; at less than $10 to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gorillagripper.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rather pricey&lt;/a&gt; at around $50. You can also use the rope loop method as suggested by TX Turner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I try to avoid &lt;em&gt;lifting&lt;/em&gt; 4'x8' sheets thicker than 1/2&quot; by myself. Instead I slide or drag them onto the cart at the store, then slide or drag them onto the car's luggage rack (or into the pickup truck bed or trailer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I'm home, I again slide them off the car/truck/trailer and onto a furniture dolly or 3-wheeled mover's dolly to move them around easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2m5yi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;furniture dolly&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.harborfreight.com/material-handling/dollies/18-in-x-12-14-in-1000-lb-capacity-hardwood-dolly-61899.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oRPRe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3-wheeled mover&amp;#39;s dolly&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200438215_200438215&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-04-23T17:32:46.067" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T17:32:46.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1122" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-23T19:05:10.347" Score="9" ViewCount="1158" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in the process of designing a floating raft, which will be built out of pressure treated lumber. There are various elements I would like create from gluing together some smaller boards rather than purchasing more expensive, larger stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does gluing the pressure treated lumber entail extra considerations, or should I just approach it like gluing regular lumber? Does this projects future being perpetually wet also warrant extra scrutiny?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-23T22:20:40.943" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T22:20:40.943" Title="Are there any extra considerations to gluing pressure treated lumber?" Tags="|lumber|glue|pressure-treated|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1122" CreationDate="2015-04-23T20:00:15.650" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The extended contact with water is going to by far be the more important consideration.  The only glue I know of that handles being perpetually wet is epoxy.  There are entire product lines of epoxy especially made for boat building.  Check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.westsystem.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.westsystem.com&lt;/a&gt; for one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T20:00:15.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1122" CreationDate="2015-04-23T20:00:24.290" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First. Gluing pressure treated lumber. Once it has dried again it should glue like regular wood.  It won't work at all if the lumber is still wet from the pressure treatment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second issue, to make this work with glue you will have to get glue that does not react with water.  Normal 'wood' glue, the yellow stuff won't last long at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any particular reason you are not using some other form of attachment?  Nails, screws, etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T20:00:24.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="951" CreationDate="2015-04-23T21:23:39.697" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the US Forest Products Laboratory in this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/usda/ah125.pdf%22&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;1957 Publication&lt;/a&gt; softwoods do not in general work as well as hardwoods in bending applications.  Indeed, USFPL cites yew and Alaskan yellow cedar as exceptions.  Other species of softwoods (Douglas-fir, southern yellow pine, northern and Atlantic white-cedar, and redwood) are perfectly good for bending, but usually cannot be used for extreme bends.  With any species of wood the success rate for bending apparently varies from tree to tree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your explicit question - it looks like the answer is &quot;no&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However it sounds like you can use other softwoods if you are willing to accept a high level of failures between successful bends.  So the alternative answer is &quot;yes&quot; if you're lucky and follow some tips and guidelines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Softwood requires more steaming before it becomes sufficiently plastic for successful bending&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;But over-steamed wood is more likely to fail during the bending process&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use straight grained wood that is free of flaws&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Surface the wood before bending&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't try to bend wood that's thicker than you need&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2015-06-21T02:38:42.263" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T02:38:42.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1116" CreationDate="2015-04-23T23:52:36.497" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;While it's probably more than you're willing to spend, Gorilla Grip plywood handlers have a pretty good ad. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O6XyAnkqOTg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O6XyAnkqOTg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT - My apologies to rob. I had not followed his &quot;rather pricey&quot; link, which is the same as mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="463" LastEditorUserId="463" LastEditDate="2015-04-24T21:01:13.337" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T21:01:13.337" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1102" CreationDate="2015-04-24T00:41:18.680" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to build furniture, you can certainly go the hand tool route, as Graphus suggested, or you can try to get by with a few power tools such as a circular saw, router, combination square, and a drill. Either way, it's really hard to build anything besides plywood projects without a way to dimension your own lumber, because even the &quot;dimensional&quot; lumber in a store is usually not very straight or flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you don't necessarily have to buy all of your own tools in order to get started in woodworking, as Carl Carlson suggested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Find a friend with a shop&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Find any local woodworking club(s) and go to a couple meetings. You may make some friends who are willing to share their shops with you. Most of the guys in my woodworking club are retired, and I get the impression that a few of them spend more time in other people's shops than they do in their own, to the point that they even keep their own tools in someone else's shop. On top of that, most of the guys are happy to trade their time and expertise for a 6-pack of beer or a cheap bottle of wine--to be consumed afterward and not while any of the tools are in use, of course. I'm not a drinker myself, but I know $300 will buy a lot more beer than it will tools. If you're too young or don't like the idea of dealing in mind-altering substances, you may be able to come up with something else you can trade for shop time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Find a community shop&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My local university offers use of a small basic woodshop to the public for $5/day or $35/semester (student rates are $4 and $30, respectively), and has lockers available for rent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some towns also have MakerSpaces which can range in style from that of a traditional hobby club to a commercial environment more reminiscent of a gym membership. (The gym-like type may be similar to the Maker Workshop that Carl Carlson mentioned; one popular example is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.techshop.ws/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TechShop&lt;/a&gt;.) MakerSpaces try to cater to a broader range of hobbyists and DIY enthusiasts, commonly called &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maker_culture&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Makers&lt;/a&gt;.&quot; Typically there is a monthly membership fee of around $25-$100, though some commercial shops with more exotic equipment charge even more. The membership fee gets you a space in which you can work on your projects, and some MakerSpaces also let you check out tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Talk to an existing woodworking business&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for a local cabinet shop or other established woodworking business. If you find one that's looking for help, they'll probably be happy to hire you part-time and train you to use their equipment, and may even let you work on your own projects after-hours or when business is slow. Even if they aren't hiring, you may be able to rent the shop at slow times or after-hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-04-24T17:25:45.640" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T17:25:45.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1084" CreationDate="2015-04-24T12:46:58.670" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, I would accomplish this with a jigsaw. Nearly all jigsaw plates can be adjusted for miter cuts. Drill the ends of the louvre slots first, at the angle you want. Then, using a guide to keep the cuts straight, run the jigsaw down the top and bottom edges of each slot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="145" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T12:46:58.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1129" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-24T13:13:07.480" Score="12" ViewCount="22685" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this large 4' x 3' mirror in the garbage. It is a heavy beast. I plan on making frame for it but I'm worried about the joint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only have experience with miter joins and splines which seems the way to go. In &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wnEkWsHxdQI&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; by Matthias Wandel he made a slightly smaller frame which was just reinforced with splines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should splines be good enough or is there something better I should consider or maybe something to do in conjunction with that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-04-24T19:06:54.243" LastActivityDate="2015-11-19T17:42:25.257" Title="Strong joints to use when making custom frames" Tags="|technique|joinery|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1130" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-24T13:30:11.190" Score="10" ViewCount="7376" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am refinishing a bedside table that my late husband made many years ago. I have just realized that when he assembled the drawer he attached the hardware to the front plate with screws and then he glued the front panel to the drawer box. I do not have access to the screws to remove the hardware. I need to remove the handle to strip the drawer front and I also want to put new hardware on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on how to proceed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bgb5E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;inside of drawer&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J07OE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;outside of front&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="472" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-04-24T13:37:27.423" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T16:05:21.310" Title="Removal of hardware from drawer front" Tags="|technique|refinishing|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1129" CreationDate="2015-04-24T13:39:52.977" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;For something that large, I would want more than just a glue joint holding it together.  I would want some sort of mechanical connection between the sides and top/bottom, such as slip tenons, dowels, or mortise and tenon.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want the look of a mitered corner, I'd suggest going with mitered half laps.  The glue area is much larger, and you can pin the joint if you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RGt1h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mitered Half Lap frame joint&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go with a mitered joint, make sure the top/bottom are mitered into the sides so gravity will not be pulling the joint apart. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T13:39:52.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1130" CreationDate="2015-04-24T14:14:27.883" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ouch.  If he did a good job gluing, then the best idea I can come up with would be to drill holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the inside of the drawer, try your best to line up with the where the screws should be holding the handles on.  I'd take a 1/2&quot; drill bit and drill down through 'most' of the inside board, I would guess the board is either a 1/2&quot; or 3/4&quot; board.  so drill to just short of the depth, or just to it (stop if you hear metal on metal!).  An easy way to do that is to measure the distance on the drill bit and put a piece of masking tape so when the tape reaches the wood stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you measured right, the screw head should be there and you might need a little knife to clean up the hole.  With any luck there won't be glue in the screw heads otherwise you might need a small sharp tool to clean them out as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that you should be good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T14:14:27.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1129" CreationDate="2015-04-24T14:19:37.323" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;LeeG's answer is a good one, but I would also say that a well done spline joint would also work, you would just have to make sure the spline goes all the way through the width of the frame not just a little corner of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should then give you a similar gluing surface as LeeG's answer.  It might come down to which one is easier for you to create.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though on of the things you could do to make either stronger would be to make 'pins' that go through the frame from the front of a different wood, thus giving it more strength AND a nice pretty accent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aBeai.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IxTBl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-24T14:31:48.623" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T14:31:48.623" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1134" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1150" CreationDate="2015-04-24T14:54:38.780" Score="20" ViewCount="16111" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do both techniques compare? In terms of result, cost, applicability to different kinds of wood, different shapes of work pieces and cleanliness of process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always used sandpaper to get a smooth surface, which you have to buy again and again. Getting one scraper that does the same (does it?) sure sounds tempting to me. I wonder if I could substitute sanding with scraping, either entirely or partially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="443" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2015-04-24T19:17:50.940" LastActivityDate="2015-04-25T07:24:57.730" Title="What are the differences between sanding and scraping?" Tags="|finishing|sanding|cabinet-scraper|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1135" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1136" CreationDate="2015-04-24T14:57:16.777" Score="6" ViewCount="4302" Body="&lt;p&gt;This obviously depends on the thickness of the wood. When you see multiple splines on a join they use contrasting wood colors to create a nice effect. But is that the only reason? Consider the following picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bEVIT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Spline Join&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/plans-projects/biscuit-joiner-spline-jig&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CanadianWoodworking&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be preferential, for the strength of the joint, to have one large spine that spanned the space between the outer splines of the picture above?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-04-25T16:34:36.107" LastActivityDate="2015-04-25T16:34:36.107" Title="Should I use one large spline or multiple smaller ones for a miter joint?" Tags="|technique|joinery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1135" CreationDate="2015-04-24T15:01:13.327" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Joints increase in strength with the cross-grain surface area. This is the sides of the spline. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That means more splines is better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, too much of a good thing is bad. At some point the cuts you need to make for the splines will weaken the wood too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-04-24T15:16:50.420" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T15:16:50.420" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1135" CreationDate="2015-04-24T15:11:50.877" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As rachet freak said, the primary reason for splines is to increase the gluing surface area.  So having 3 small splines is going to give you more surface area to glue than one wide one, the wide one will give only slightly more area than a small single one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T15:11:50.877" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1134" CreationDate="2015-04-24T15:17:05.437" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Scraping is what they did before there was sandpaper.  Scraping yields a different texture surface that feels more like wood, due to the fact that it is shearing the wood fibers rather than grinding them away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sand paper is very popular because most people (myself included) haven't bothered to learn how to use card and cabinet scrapers to their fullest.  Since you are the one that sharpens a scraper, you can determine how aggressive the cut will be.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people (myself) use scrapers primarily to clean up glue joints.   If you want to use a scraper, it is important to learn how to properly sharpen and burnish them for the specific uses you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T15:17:05.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1130" CreationDate="2015-04-24T15:21:56.517" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are not interested in saving the handle, you can use a Dremel or other small cutoff tool to cut the handle in half then unscrew it from the mounting screws.  Once you know the exact location of the screws, you can drill through from the other side as suggested by Bowlturner and remove the screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T15:21:56.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1129" CreationDate="2015-04-24T16:03:19.987" Score="11" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should splines be good enough or is there something better I should consider or maybe something to do in conjunction with that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just a bit on the terminology, a true spline runs lengthways in a slot milled into the face of both mitres, through all or most of the joint (a through spline or stopped spline respectively). A different joint reinforcement, where a piece of wood is inserted into one or more slots milled &lt;em&gt;across the corner&lt;/em&gt; is now commonly also described as a spline but this is more accurately described as a &lt;strong&gt;mitre key&lt;/strong&gt;. In the video you link to Matthias is using mitre keys, not splines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K8XXi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Reinforced mitre joints&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mitre keys are generally regarded as not adding greatly to the strength of the joint, while splines do provide a significant improvement. However, this is with keys and splines of conventional size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The strength of each reinforcement is due to three factors: structural advantage, the thickness of the wood slivers used and the glue surface area. The splined joint being superior in all regards. However, mitre keys were originally quite small and done using veneer thicknesses, resulting in only modest added strength while the keys in the video on the other hand are far larger than conventional ones and also thicker. So they probably add as much, if not more, strength than a typical spline would, being of relatively modest width (25mm / 1&quot; being a typical maximum). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use either sizeable mitre key or fairly wide spline, using wood of some thickness (perhaps above 3mm / 1/8&quot; material) I think it likely that you will end up with joints that are strong enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even saying that, if you would prefer to reinforce the mitres using a method that is faster there are a few I can recommend. And the first two are guaranteed to provide greater stability and strength. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are &lt;strong&gt;L-shaped steel mending plates&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;plywood corner braces&lt;/strong&gt;. They are simply screwed or nailed into the frame at the back and essentially make the joint completely rigid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last but not least, the simplest reinforcements of all: &lt;strong&gt;large staples&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;corrugated fasteners&lt;/strong&gt;. If you don't have any philosophical objection to using mechanical fasteners both of these require no effort to install yet add hugely to the strength of the joint, as the metal would have to shear through or be torn free from the wood for them to fail. Some people consider them crude and ugly, but they work and I would argue that their ugliness is irrelevant as they are on the back of the joint where nobody will ever see them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-04-24T16:04:17.953" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T16:04:17.953" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1141" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1143" CreationDate="2015-04-24T16:15:20.220" Score="10" ViewCount="250" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/1138/20&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; LeeG talks about that a scraper needs to be burnished and sharpened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does one do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T17:49:54.427" Title="How do I prepare a scraper for use?" Tags="|sharpening|cabinet-scraper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1141" CreationDate="2015-04-24T17:10:46.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many videos exist on YouTube that provide tutorials; my favorite is one done by &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/Nz6EpQu2HRo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;William Ng&lt;/a&gt; [via The Wood Whisperer].  They all have the same steps: file the edge, perhaps hone the edge with a stone, and turn the burr over with a burnisher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is:  after having watched them all, I still cannot do it well at all.  I have never really been able to curl up a shaving like they do in the videos.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am hopeful that someone here will provide the magic bullet we all need to make it happen reliably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2015-04-24T17:49:54.427" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T17:49:54.427" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1141" CreationDate="2015-04-24T17:32:55.783" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This will deal with sharpening a flat scraper.  Curved scrapers follow the same principle, but I don't personally have any experience with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, you need to flatten the edge.  I sandwich the scraper between two pieces of wood in my vise with perhaps 1/2&quot; of the edge standing proud.  Use a mill bastard file that is 2-3&quot; longer than your scraper, and holding it flat against the edge of the scraper, file down the scraper so it is flat along the edge, with no burrs.  It is important that the edge be flat, so make some sort of jig to hold the file flat.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hE3pb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;File holding Jig&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want the sharpest, longest lasting edge, you can use a stone (water or oil) to further polish the edge.  Remove the scraper from the vise, and using a block of wood to hold it vertical, polish the edge to about 5000 grit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the edge is flat, you need to remove the burr and polish the edges with a stone.  You can polish the entire edge of the scraper, or use the &quot;ruler trick&quot;, placing a steel ruler along the length of the stone, and using it to only allow the flat edge of the scraper to be touched by the stone.  Either way, work both sides until there is no burr.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To finalize, you need to draw out an edge and &quot;turn the hook&quot;.  Veritas makes a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?c=&amp;amp;p=32633&amp;amp;cat=1,310,41070&amp;amp;ap=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;jig that will do both&lt;/a&gt; or you can do it with a burnisher.  A burnisher is a smooth, hard piece of steel, usually, but not always, round.  First draw out the edge by laying the scraper on its side on the bench with about 1/2&quot; standing proud.  Put a drop of machine oil on the burnisher, and stroke it across the scraper several times until a burr begins to form.  You don't need to press hard - about as hard as when putting butter on bread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once an edge has been formed, put the scraper back in the vise, and holding the burnisher at about a 5 degree angle, take a few strokes to roll the edge over.  The scraper should now be ready for use.  Once it gets dull, you can repeat the &quot;draw and turn hook&quot; steps several times before needing to flatten the scraper again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MigRO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Burnishing the edge&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other links to sharpening scrapers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/a_better_way_to_sharpen_scrapers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chris Schwartz&lt;/a&gt; at Popular Woodworking has a great article.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another great article about scrapers and their use is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Online_Resources/Binding/How_to_sharpen_a_scraper.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T17:32:55.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1144" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-24T17:39:16.360" Score="10" ViewCount="10044" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had an oak tree removed from my back yard last year and thought seriously about milling the trunk into boards for future woodworking projects.  In the end, I let them carry it off because I wasn’t sure how much effort that would be.  But I still wonder: what is required in terms of costs, equipment, steps, and storage space to turn a tree into boards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-03-11T06:26:07.237" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T06:26:07.237" Title="What is the process, from start to finish, for milling a tree into boards?" Tags="|green-wood|milling|making-lumber|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1144" CreationDate="2015-04-24T17:39:16.360" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR&lt;/strong&gt;:  It is an enormous amount of effort but it can be done.  The resulting wood can be prone to cracking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried to do a bit of this and like most of us here on Stack Exchange, I read a lot of information about it online and offline (dead tree versions:  IRONY).  Here is a summary of my experience:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lesson 1: Buy coating to paint the end grain from Woodcraft.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several years ago, an ice storm hit my town and many trees were broken and uprooted and so this subject came to a head.  A friend lives in an older part of town where a large walnut tree fell.  He intended to ask the owner if he could have it but before he could contact her, she had it bucked up into fireplace-length chunks.  Nevertheless, she let him have those chunks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He gave me several of these chunks to experiment with.  He bought some special coating to paint the end grain to control the drying and keep the end grain from checking.  I don’t know what this stuff was but it was purchased at Woodcraft.  I painted the end grain of mine with old latex paint.  My wood did not check very badly but it did end up with a number of end-grain splits which prevented me from doing as much as I wanted.  He had better luck.  FWIW, I made a wooden-bodied Krenov-style hand plane from that wood.  I made it by following the procedure in David Finck’s book “&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0806961635&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Making and Mastering Wooden Planes&lt;/a&gt;.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lesson 2:  Don’t produce any raw lumber that is bigger than your biggest tool.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway…  these chunks were about 6 inches in cross section and the difficulty I had with using them was that I did not have a table saw or band saw that could take this much material.  I had to go over to a friend’s home who had a bandsaw with more capacity and cut up the material.  I also made extensive use of his powered jointer but one could do a fair job with a hatchet and a hand plane. I could have perhaps split it but I don’t have a froe.  I could also have used a hand saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As luck would have it, the same thing happened two years later and this time, he caught another owner of a fallen tree (again – walnut) and was given permission to get rid of it by whatever means.  In this case, he and another guy used a chainsaw mill that he had purchased for the purpose.  He wanted to use the wood for guitar necks and so cut the tree up into 4” thick slabs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lesson 3:  Green wood is extremely heavy; make sure you have a truck and/or trailer.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was not along for that adventure but he told me about it.  This size of slab from a freshly fallen tree (slabs were about 12 feet long) are very heavy from all the water still in the wood.  Three men could barely move them from the ground to the trailer.  Also, slabbing a tree of this size (perhaps 24 inches in diameter) required two sharpenings of the chain – which he had taken to a specialist who filed the teeth for rip-cutting.  People with lower back problems beware.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are still in a shed drying so that adventure is still in progress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are easier ways to do this but not much easier.  Wood is always heavy when freshly fallen and it must always be stored somewhere while the moisture evaporates.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://woodmizer.com/us/Services/Find-a-Local-Sawyer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;WoodMizer&lt;/a&gt; sells large portable bandsaw mills just for this purpose and on their website, you can search for people in your zip code that might have one and who might come to your property and saw up your wood for a fee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lesson 4:  Pay attention to how you stack and dry it.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The end result was that the wood I got from this adventure was usable but I often encountered checks and cracks that I had to work around.  I suspect this was due to improper drying since I made no effort to ensure adequate airflow.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other use of dead-fall tree wood like this is spoon-making.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://pfollansbee.wordpress.com/tag/spoon-carving/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Peter Follansbee&lt;/a&gt; has recently popularized this craft and since it only uses a small part of the tree, only requires a hatchet and some knives.  This craft is much easier with green wood and so is a great use of storm-damaged tree limbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lesson 5:  Thin wood dries a lot faster so do your woodworking all in one session.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My personal experience with spoon carving is that it is very rewarding; you can produce something in a single sitting and they seem quite popular as gifts.  But I think that once you start, you have to go through to completion.  Once you hack off a lot of the wood from your final product, it dries pretty fast.  You can experience some cracking and also the wood gets much harder.  If you put it aside and come back after several days, it can be quite a chore to whittle down the remainder.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I was able to witness how they used to do this back in the U.S. Colonial period when I visited Plimoth Plantation in Massachusetts.  I actually ran into Roy Underhill while there who happened to be filming an episode of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pbs.org/woodwrightsshop/home/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;his PBS show, The Woodwright’s Shop&lt;/a&gt;, at the time.  He showed me the wood yard used by their woodworker (who at the time was the aforementioned Peter Follansbee) which was basically a bunch of oak logs laying on the ground behind the shop.  He told me that much of their woodworking during that time period was done while the logs were still pretty green.  They were split with wedges and then slabs were split out (the term for that is ‘riving’) with a froe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in almost all cases, it is a gigantic amount of work to get from tree to lumber but can be pretty fun to do once or twice.  To do it on a large scale requires space to let the wood dry properly.  But you can do some fun projects with tree limbs that are much less effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastEditorUserId="522" LastEditDate="2015-04-30T20:19:45.977" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T20:19:45.977" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1144" CreationDate="2015-04-24T18:00:19.097" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple options.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first and cheapest (though by far the most work) is to get a chainsaw mill.  some of these are a guide you can buy for your existing chain saw and others come with a special bar and chain and others come with the saw.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need a fairly powerful saw and I would recommend spending the money on a rip saw chain.  A rip chain will save you and your saw a LOT of work it doesn't need to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have the equipment all it takes is your time.  I would recommend cutting the slabs from the first log or two fairly thick, because it takes a bit of practice and even beyond that the chain marks up the wood pretty good, leaving the need for a lot of planing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second option, you have is many places there are people with portable mills that for a fee will come and cut up your trees into lumber.  Some offer different levels of service depending on what you are willing to pay for.  After they cut it up for you, some have kiln services you can pay for to dry the wood, and sometimes they even have planing services all for other costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The place near were I lived had an hourly fee plus a per blade fee, this is because yard trees often have object imbedded in them that can ruin a blade.  This is also one of the reasons most regular mills don't accept yard or in town logs, volume and likely chance of damage to equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final is to have a friend with a portable mill or buy one yourself to mill the trees.  The cheapest smallest ones I've seen are around $1200-$1500 dollars, and if I remember right only have about a 12&quot; throat, meaning any tree larger than that in diameter would need to have a chainsaw cut it down to size.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDT:&#xA;Note, my dad and I bought a woodmizer portable bandsaw mill and I do cut up dead and recently living trees to make lumber.  Then dry it and then mill it for projects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T18:00:19.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1130" CreationDate="2015-04-24T18:30:22.487" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry cannot comment yet, other wise I would have commented on Bowltuner's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take Bowltuner's drill idea, but use a common 3/4&quot; hole saw instead of a standard drill bit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;when the saw portion cuts in to the wood, remove the center drill from the hole saw.  This will protect the screw head better from damage due to your drilling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still use tape as a depth gauge, and pry out the hole core with a flat blade screw driver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-04-24T19:06:36.587" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T19:06:36.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1130" CreationDate="2015-04-24T18:45:38.943" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is one other option, that I suggest as a last resort, and should not be done by someone who has limited experience: use a bandsaw table to cut the drawer face off the drawer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would have to adjust the table of the bandsaw to cut the face off trying to follow the glue line between the drawer and the face. Also, trying to feed this through the bandsaw too fast will be dangerous. The blade can also walk (the blade moves away from where you want it to be) while cutting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="107" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T18:45:38.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1129" CreationDate="2015-04-24T19:12:19.377" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In cases where you do not want to damage the outer edge of a decorative frame (Like a nice picture frame) you could do this with a biscuit joiner.  I have made many strong frames with a &quot;detail biscuit joiner&quot;, a perfect mitered cut and wood glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="478" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-04-25T11:18:46.410" LastActivityDate="2015-04-25T11:18:46.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1134" CreationDate="2015-04-24T19:23:37.257" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How do both techniques compare? In terms of result, cost,&#xA;  applicability to different kinds of wood, different shapes of work&#xA;  pieces and cleanliness of process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a preamble to an in-depth  comparison between scraping and sanding let me frame my answer in terms of '&lt;strong&gt;surface preparation&lt;/strong&gt;' which is what you are doing when you are either scraping or abrading or both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The goal is to prepare the surface of the wood or veneer for a final finish, or in the case of unfinished wood pieces (shoji comes to mind) to achieve a final surface before use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The benefits of one method vs another are best defined in terms of what type of finishing you are going to pursue and any cost or time restraints which your project may have (an important consideration).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind you are omitting planning, which is another very viable method of surface preparation, but I will limit this answer to the two methods that you have mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Abrasives&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Abrasives are pretty freaking awesome. But they are a fairly new method of preparing wood surfaces in the long history of working wood. Nowadays however, you will be hard pressed to find a hobbyist or professional who has not spent their share of time 'sanding'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Strengths&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Abrasives excel in a few areas that scrapers cannot begin to compete with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The first of which is time. If you are preparing case-goods, cabinetry or solid wood surfaces then you will most likely gravitate towards an electric or pneumatic sander.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Abrasives can achieve very consistent surfaces that will allow your finishing process to be quite predictable. If you properly work through the girts on your way to your final surface you can have a very well prepared surface indeed, with a little practice.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Versatility is another area where abrasives can really shine. If you are making a custom moulding or preparing a concave or convex surface, sanding with a custom backing pad or by hand is almost the only way to go unless you want to make custom scraper blade profiles.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ease of use. I think this one speaks for itself.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Weaknesses&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Abrasives have several drawbacks that you are probably already aware of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Abrasives produce both wood and abrasive media dust which is considered an occupational hazard of woodworking. This is kind of a big deal if you are a professional. Even for the hobbyist, you will want to take measures to limit your exposure to sanding dust by using a good quality respirator of some kind and ventilating your shop. Even afterwards, this dust can irritate your lungs when you are long done with sanding and so regular cleaning is also required.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Abrasives are expensive. I mean they won't break the bank, but you will be spending money on sandpaper for sure. And like most things you get what you pay for.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Flatness. If you are looking for a superiorly flat surface for whatever reason, abrasives may let you down. Due to variations in wood hardness, sandpaper tends to inconsistently remove material from most wood types. An extreme example is what is known as 'heart pine'. The difference in hardness of the early and late wood of the annual rings is tremendous. Sanding this wood improperly will produce a very undesireable result without care.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Scrapers&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the method of choice for wood surface prep, now the scraper has been relegated to the tool cabinet for most applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Strengths&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Flatness. A properly burnished scraper can easily produce a high degree of flatness in a surface. But lets expand this to a curved scraper and you will find that a scraper can hold a very 'true' profile as well - good for custom moldings. But don't necessarily get the idea that the scraper is exceptionally good at flatness, as a hand plane will beat the scraper every time.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Veneer and burls. Where a hand plane would be a totally bad option, before abrasives came into vogue a scraper was the only other method. It is still a very viable way to quickly bring a freshly veneered surface (don't think plywood as this has already been commercially sanded) into the neighborhood of ready for finish. Scrapers are easier to control when preparing veneers and will let you avoid 'sanding through' which is all to easy to do with a power sander of any variety.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ease. Think of this strength of the scraper as a byproduct of not having to sand a surface through 4 consecutive grits. A good scraping and most hardwoods no longer have tool marks and may need only a light sanding (320+) to be ready to sand. If you are removing planner marks with a power sander you probably need to start at at least 180 grit and work your way up.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Weaknesses&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Getting a scraper ready to use is a bit of a trick. But don't let this fact cause you to think that using abrasives involves less skill. I have seen far more pieces of furniture that were improperly sanded.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in the comments above, scrapers can be very hard on your hands when used vigorously. I have actually burned my thumbs with a scraper blade due to the heat of the friction of use. Not to mention that it does take considerable stamina to scrape anything of size.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As the scope of a piece of furniture grows, you probably need another tool to do your surface prep. A solid wood dining table should probably be planned or power sanded as you will wear yourself out scraping that bad boy. And if you scraped everything you could as a professional wood worker you just might starve to death given the time it would take.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T19:23:37.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1151" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-24T19:50:18.643" Score="8" ViewCount="4594" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have several old pieces of furniture that have issues with the existing finish. I would like to do a gentle restoration of these pieces while maintaining the original look. I am not sure if the finish is shellac, or some kind of other varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would I be able to tell what is there? Is there a way to test the finish to determine what it is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="479" LastEditorUserId="3" LastEditDate="2015-04-27T17:29:11.800" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T17:29:11.800" Title="How to find out what kind of finish is on a piece of furniture" Tags="|furniture|restoration|refinishing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1151" CreationDate="2015-04-24T20:06:35.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could test what kind of solvent will remove it.  Shellac is removed with alcohol, lacquer with lacquer thinner, and varnish with paint thinner.  Obviously do this on a part that is not visible if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps a better way would be to just strip part of one piece, and try different finishes (stripping between) until you get the look you want, then use that process on the remaining pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T20:06:35.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1151" CreationDate="2015-04-24T20:06:47.223" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can test the finish by applying different types of solvent in an inconspicuous location on the piece of furniture. For example, you can remove Shellac with denatured alcohol. Bob Vila's website outlines a few common solvents that work for certain finishes in an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bobvila.com/articles/how-to-remove-varnish&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;article about removing varnish&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some types of finish, like lacquer, burn into the existing layer when you apply a new coat. Other types of finish, like polyurethane, do not burn in, so if the topcoat is damaged you should ideally either uniformly sand through that coat across the entire piece, or you'll need to strip the finish all the way down to the wood and apply all-new finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T20:06:47.223" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1134" CreationDate="2015-04-24T20:10:39.340" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sanding abrades the surface, leaving scratches everywhere. Scraping actually cuts the wood fibers, leaving a sharper contrast of the grain in porous woods like oak and walnut. On more even grained wood like maple the difference is a lot less noticeable, provided the sanding was accomplished correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for results, it depends on the final finish. For a fully pore filled finish, virtually no difference. For a thicker film finishes, 2-3 coats of poly, little to no difference. For a close to the grain &quot;oiled&quot; finish with little film thickness, it is noticeable, especially if the sanding is not done correctly. More porous woods will show more difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another aspect is surface flatness. A scraper can easily dish a surface. A proper sanding block or powered sanders won't (used correctly). A Stanley #80 cabinet scraper is much better for flattening a surface than sanding or hand scraping, and won't dish a flat surface. For the hobbyist, the way to flatten a surface is a hand plane, and then a cabinet scraper or scraper plane (or very good smoother plane) is used to clean up tooling marks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Project shape plays a major role. One would need a lot of different scraper shapes. These can be purchased or cut from rectangular card scrapers - some use broken glass. This aspect starts to drive up the cost of scraping. I have many different scrapers, from rectangles to various curved flat shapes and others that attach to handles. A lot depends on whether the scraping is for finish removal or surface prep. There is cost associated with the chosen sharpening/honing method and a burnishing tool - carbide is preferred and does a better job, but hardened steel can work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleanliness: subjective. My ROS attached to the shop vac captures the majority of the dust. Scraper shavings are cleaner and safer than hand sanding dust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ergonomics: holding scrapers by hand is much worse than hand sanding or an ROS. There are holders for rectangular scrapers that drastically improve the ergonomics, and then there are cabinet scrapers that are a real improvement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My journey started with wanting large flat surfaces, which after trying sanding and router sleds led to hand planes and then scrapers, cabinet scrapers, and scraper planes, which reduced my use of sandpaper to very little. I typically only use 320 grit and up now, depending on the project.  My advice is to start with a #80 cabinet scraper and see how you like it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T20:10:39.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1151" CreationDate="2015-04-24T20:26:20.950" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since they are very old, they are most likely lacquer or shellac. As previously noted, test for shellac with DNA, lacquer with lacquer thinner. If those don't soften the finish, then it's probably a phenolic or alkyd varnish which will require stripping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/finishing/flexner-on-finishing-refinishing-furniture&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a good article on refinishing by Bob Flexner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T20:26:20.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1112" CreationDate="2015-04-24T21:16:51.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trying to cut finished circles on a table saw is about as unsafe an idea as I can think of. The reason that the Wandel setup works is that the rabbet is not much deeper than the tooth depth on the blade. This means that any wood fed into the blade at an angle encounters teeth and gets cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For any cut deeper than the tooth depth, this invites disaster. Wood which is fed into the body of the blade at an angle will do one of two things: if the blade is moving downwards, the wood will burn due to friction and the piece will stall - if the blade is moving upwards, the piece will be picked up and thrown. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither is a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="463" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T21:16:51.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1116" CreationDate="2015-04-25T02:41:00.823" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For moving plywood on the ground, I stand the sheet up on the short end; put my back against it; grip the edges (backhand), somewhere below the centerline; and lean forward.  Very easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For carrying up a ladder, I set it long side down, put a C-clamp (tightly!) on the upper edge near the center, and lift it behind me while I climb.  (This can get awkward at the top, depending; but, at least I get there.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="484" LastActivityDate="2015-04-25T02:41:00.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1116" CreationDate="2015-04-25T06:37:41.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a tarp &lt;em&gt;(or you could get one, they come in handy a lot)&lt;/em&gt; you can simply lay the tarp down, set the plywood on its face on the tarp &lt;em&gt;(you could probably even do more than one at a time this way)&lt;/em&gt;. Obviously, the tarp should be bigger than 4x8 for this to work right. Then get a rope, stick it through two of the back circular openings, then go in front of the tarp and you can stick the rope through one of the center front openings. Or you could just grab the front of the tarp with one hand and even hold the rope with the same hand, and then just walk to where you need to put it. This will be much easier to do then carrying the plywood, with it just sliding along the concrete/grass/etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7XIWvs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="126" LastEditorUserId="126" LastEditDate="2015-04-25T21:10:46.600" LastActivityDate="2015-04-25T21:10:46.600" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1134" CreationDate="2015-04-25T07:24:57.730" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a very good topic to have here since there is active debate going on in woodworking circles about the overuse of sanding to smooth wood in the modern era.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How do both techniques compare? In terms of result, cost, applicability to different kinds of wood, different shapes of work pieces and cleanliness of process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where possible scraping is &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; preferable. That's a strong statement but it's easily backed up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Results&lt;/strong&gt; Using conventional scrapers and when done properly scraping is capable of creating a surface ready for finish, so that's equivalent to roughly 180-240 grit paper. In general the smaller the burr on the scraper the finer the surface it will create.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using an unconventional scraper, one with a sharp knife edge, you can get to a surface even finer than this, equivalent to 600 grit if not higher. However, this is not needed in almost all cases and can be counter-productive as a wood surface that smooth can resist finish. On very hard, resinous hardwoods though knife-edge scraping can create a superb surface, requiring nothing more than hard buffing to create a shine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But talking about the smooth surface scrapers create is only the tip of the iceberg, since you can go from sawn lumber directly to a finish-ready surface using just the one tool, rather than working up through the grits as we have to using abrasives - making a card scraper literally the equivalent of sandpaper from 60 grit through to 220.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cost&lt;/strong&gt; There is simply no comparison on cost. As I like to put it, a scraper is like an infinite stack of sandpaper, which is a neat trick for something that costs perhaps 10 USD and at best can be free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The costs associated with sandpaper build and build over time because sandpaper is a consumable resource (and for best results users should be encouraged to use it and discard it more frequently), but card scrapers are lifetime tools. Several lifetimes in fact; if cared for your grandchildren could be using the same card scraper you bought or made for yourself last week. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Applicability to different kinds of wood&lt;/strong&gt; There's some contention here. Conventional thinking is that you can't scrape softwoods but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/shhh-don%E2%80%99t-tell-my-scraper-that&quot;&gt;as Chris Schwarz has written about&lt;/a&gt; and as I too found out for myself, you can. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scraping can achieve good results in pretty much any wood in good condition, most certainly hardwoods. Spalted hardwoods could prose a problem as areas within the spalting can be soft and 'punky' which means they are too soft to scrape successfully. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cleanliness of process&lt;/strong&gt; This can be summarised by: shavings, not dust. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DrpD6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shavings, not dust&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other advantages&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Faster&lt;/strong&gt; Despite being a hand process compared to a powered process, it is actually faster to go from rough wood to finish-ready.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Quieter&lt;/strong&gt; Obviously there's no comparison between a hand process like scraping and power sanding, which is a key benefit for those woodworking in the home (your family members and neighbours will thank you. Plus no more ear defenders or ear plugs for you.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Never clogs&lt;/strong&gt; Unlike sandpaper a scraper can't clog. Resinous woods can build up a residue behind the edge, but this is easily scraped or wiped away in a moment.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Works on finish as well as wood&lt;/strong&gt; With a light touch scrapers are great for smoothing minor imperfections in finish, but are actually amazingly good at removing finish entirely if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disadvanteges&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It couldn't all be upside. Scraping is a hand process, so by definition requires muscle effort. On large projects in particular scraping can be extremely tiring, not just on the arms but on the small muscles in the hand in particular because of the conventional hand grip seen in the above image. This can be offset somewhat by using a commercial scraper plane or holder, or a homemade wooden equivalent:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4HAwd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Scraper holders, commercial and homemade&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I wonder if I could substitute sanding with scraping, either entirely or partially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a big proponent of scraping and use it as much as I can to help keep dust from woodworking at a minimum, however it cannot completely take the place of abrasive papers/films/cloths. Sometimes a quick swipe with a piece of 150 paper is all that's needed so there's no reason to religiously scrape in every instance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Traditional versus heretical scraper sharpening&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The traditional way to 'sharpen' a card scraper is summarised as follows: file the edge, hone the edge against a stone to remove file marks, hone both flat faces to remove burr from filing, prepare corners for burr formation by burnishing flat (&quot;drawing the steel&quot;), lastly turning the burr using the burnisher. The process is not particularly long or involved but some users experience difficulty in repeatably achieving good burrs along the whole width of the scraper. The entire process is not needed every time, a burr can be re-turned a few times before the edge must be re-prepped from scratch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a faster modern alternative however: skipping every step but the first one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After filing there is already a burr along each edge of the scraper, which is of course exactly what the sharpening process seeks to create. They are evidently not as refined as those created by the conventional preparation method, but they are capable and by using finer files the burr can be made smaller and less crude than those created by a medium or bastard mill file. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By using the card scraper directly after filing the preparation process is cut from minutes literally to seconds, taking no more than 10-20 seconds to do. Because of the speed and ease the user is more likely to sharpen as needed, rather than put off sharpening past the point where scraping results are not as good as they could be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; in addition to card scrapers there are cabinet scrapers, which are not exactly the same. Typically the blades are thicker and the edge is prepared differently (with a 45° bevel and one pronounced burr at the apex) and they are almost always used in a scraper plane of some kind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Homemade or adapted card scrapers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Scrapers traditionally were made from old saw blades that had broken or bent and couldn't be made serviceable again. This is still a viable way of making your own scraper. The blades can be cut down using a motor tool with a cutting disk or slitting disk, or as conventionally by sawing through with a hacksaw (tip: grip the saw plate with scrap wood on both sides to prevent &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you would like to experiment with knife-edged scrapers, boxcutter blades and single-edged razorblades make excellent small scrapers, perfect for board edges, getting into tight corners and for fine surface touch-ups. They're also excellent for smoothing minor imperfections between coats of finish. Rounding or &quot;knocking off&quot; the corners slightly can be advisable to help prevent leaving track marks in the work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sharpening these blades is possible, but tricky to do well (very shallow bevel angle) so it may be necessary to use one until it no longer scrapes well and then discard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For larger surfaces a kitchen knife can be pressed into service, even inexpensive stainless knives have steel that is up to the task. These can be honed or re-sharpened as needed by any conventional means, I use a standard rod-shaped knife steel and steel the edge as soon as scraping efficiency goes down and scrapings are no longer being produced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-04-25T07:24:57.730" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1116" CreationDate="2015-04-25T14:48:52.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This seems like it might be a pretty credible solution…&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jxCKJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xzp9p.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SO7C4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$34-40.00 on &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0000224PA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt; - unless of course your dealing with stairs which is pretty probable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly though, at some point it is also pretty likely (and unfortunate) that at some point you will be wrestling with beast, e.g. getting it out of the truck, on to the cart, etc… &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So your best bet might just be calling on an extra pair or hands, i.e. friend, brother-in-law or neighbor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line is, safety first, work smart, not hard, etc. ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="488" LastEditorUserId="38" LastEditDate="2015-04-26T03:46:18.140" LastActivityDate="2015-04-26T03:46:18.140" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1116" CreationDate="2015-04-25T14:51:51.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have always used a door carry, which is not a device but a grip. This grip is one that is good to know when help or other devices are not available to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The grip is one were the arm that is going to used to carry the wood is bent like it is in a cast. You cradle the piece of plywood on your forearm, with the top leaning into your shoulder. You have much more control then you have when your carrying arm is straight. You  are able to pretty much stand straight up and down. One does not need to bring a arm in over their head to keep the plywood balanced. I believe this is the safest and most comfortable way to carry a piece of plywood (or door). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="110" LastActivityDate="2015-04-25T14:51:51.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1077" CreationDate="2015-04-25T19:50:29.933" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was quite surprised by your assertion that you can't make dowel on a lathe. So I asked my uncle, and we went out to the shop and made some on the lathe. It is not hard, just slow. To control breakage use both a tailstock and midpoint support and limit your effective length by keeping your tool near a support. This does require moving the mid support frequently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further a lathe is the only way to make decorative dowels with balls and tapers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="277" LastActivityDate="2015-04-25T19:50:29.933" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1163" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-25T20:43:38.707" Score="3" ViewCount="2218" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm toying with the idea of buying a big old US-manufactured jointer in the range of 12&quot;-16&quot;. It seems all these machines are 3-phase. What do I need to know about the machines in order to determine whether they can be made to run on the single-phase 240V, 20A circuits in my garage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I've seen people mention rewiring or replacing the motor or using a phase converter to run old industrial-size machinery in a home shop, but what's involved with each of those solutions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-04-26T01:18:36.977" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T14:57:49.373" Title="Can I make large 3-phase machinery run on a single-phase 240V, 20A circuit, and if so, how do I do it?" Tags="|power-tools|electrical-requirements|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="65" CreationDate="2015-04-25T21:27:52.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Be careful when disposing of black walnut sawdust and shavings.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To varying degrees all parts of the black walnut tree contain juglone, which is poisonous to many plants and even to some animals.  See &lt;a href=&quot;http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1148.html%20%22this%20article%22.&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; or Google &quot;juglone&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not a good idea to use walnut as mulch. Regrettably, I put part of my garden out of commission for a time by doing this (my raspberry patch is very slow to recover). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Composting of shavings and sawdust containing walnut by-products can be achieved without excess concern, since by the time the bio-degrading has taken place (requiring six months and occasional turning and mixing with other materials) the juglone is rendered harmless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently juglone is quite poisonous to horses and walnut should not be used as bedding material.(@Jeromy French you are in the clear - mucking should not be a problem.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Butternut is also of concern for the same reason, but not as seriously as walnut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2015-04-26T22:48:16.790" LastActivityDate="2015-04-26T22:48:16.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1163" CreationDate="2015-04-25T21:48:11.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do it with a phase converter.  Basically there are rotary and static phase converters that can convert single phase 220 into three phase. Rotary converters are a solid technology that has been in use since the 1960's.  you can operate multiple 3 phase machines off of a single rotary converter.  Static phase converters basically allow 3 phase motors to work on single phase, but not at their full rated horsepower.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also digital phase converters that create true 3 phase power, but are considerably more expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-04-25T21:48:11.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1116" CreationDate="2015-04-26T00:52:05.790" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually I just Wrestle it, but in offices and other finished areas I use a door cart. Here is how to make a door cart:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;start with a four wheel furniture dolly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cut a two by four about the length of the long side or slightly longer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wrap it in carpet and attach to the furniture dolly. It should be on top and all the way to one side.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cut three more two by fours to the same length and wrap two in carpet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;place (but do not yet attach) the third two by four opposite the one you already attached on the dolly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cut two two by fours about three foot long.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;attach the two three foot and two carpet covered two by fours to form a rectangle (just like the top of the furniture dolly but about three foot wide)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cut a taper on the end of a two by four this two by four will form the back of the  dolly, so to determine the angle of the cut  you want something that will form the long lage of a triangle that has the board about three foot long as the hypotenuse and a short leg less than half  the length of the factory carpeted sides of the furniture dolly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;after checking fit duplicate above board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;attach two boards from the last two steps to the board sitting on the dolly pointed straight up and with the tapers coplanar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;attach the rectangle to the tapered end of the uprights and then attach the whole thing to the dolly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(also works great for folding tables)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="277" LastActivityDate="2015-04-26T00:52:05.790" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1163" CreationDate="2015-04-26T01:06:27.133" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/workshop/qa/three-phase-machines-in-shop.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;fine woodworking&lt;/a&gt;, you have a few options for running 3 phase equipment when your power lines are single phase. Here's a brief summary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the manufacturer is still in business, see if they have a single phase  motor you can purchase&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Purchase a phase converter. This may be static, rotary, or electronic.  (Also see the note about Variable Frequency Drives) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;static&lt;/strong&gt; Reduces available horsepower by approximately 1/3, will have difficulty with heavy starting loads. Not recommended for compressors, band saws, dust collection. This can be offset by having a lower power machine idling constantly, but that seems like a huge waste of energy to me.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;rotary&lt;/strong&gt; Essentially uses the incoming single phase to drive a single phase motor which actually &lt;em&gt;generates&lt;/em&gt; a three phase output. Doesn't suffer from the static converter's reduced power problem, but they're not cheap.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.temcoindustrialpower.com/product_selection.html?p=rotary_phase_converter_selection_guide&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is a guide for selecting a rotary phase converter for your load.&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Additionally, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kayind.com/basics/types.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kay Industries provides a handy reference for deciding if you need a static or rotary converter&lt;/a&gt;. Even if you decide you don't want to use their equipment, it may be useful in making your decision. As an aside, this is a big noisy machine(because a wood shop doesn't have &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; of those in it normally.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;electronic&lt;/strong&gt; Commonly and more correctly referred to as an inverter. Converts the signal to DC then creates 3 signals 120 degrees out of phase with eachother, creating a digital 3 phase output. May actually be &lt;em&gt;better&lt;/em&gt; than an actual 3 phase power line due to additional control, such as direction and gradual power increase. The article lists bandsaws and lathes as examples of where this would be beneficial (e.g. reversing the rotation of the lathe by reversing your converter's direction). Typically dedicated to a single machine; though, it may be possible to run on multiple machines. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.phaseperfect.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Phase Perfect&lt;/a&gt; seems to be the go-to for these devices. There is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/transformers-phase-converters-vfd/anyone-using-digital-phase-converter-102559/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;some discussion of them&lt;/a&gt; here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;VFD&lt;/strong&gt; Another option not mentioned in the article but that seems to be cropping up on a lot of articles is a Variable Frequency Drive (&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Variable-frequency_drive&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;VFD&lt;/a&gt;). These are very efficient and have the added bonus of being able to directly control the speed of a motor. With that said, aside from certain tools like a lathe, drill press, and band saw, I don't think a VFD is the practical choice; it would be a tool-specific sort of thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;With all this in mind, I think it's probably best to consult the manufacturer/suppliers&lt;/strong&gt;. Get their take on it (and their take on their competitors. Make them fight eachother, it's fun) once you've decided which type you want, work with them to determine your power needs, and follow instructions on setting up your converter to prevent damage to your equipment or the converter itself via feedback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some suppliers, shamelessly stolen by the web site linked above. They note that of those listed, only Grainger sells inverters, though frankly I couldn't find any on their site, you may have to do a littel digging:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Ameri-Phase Corporation&#xA;800-920-1926 &#xA;&#xA;Cedarberg Industries&#xA;800-328-2279 &#xA;&#xA;Grizzly Industrial&#xA;800-523-4777&#xA;www.grizzly.com &#xA;&#xA;GWM Corporation&#xA;800-437-4273 &#xA;&#xA;Kay Industries&#xA;800-348-5257&#xA;www.kayind.com &#xA;&#xA;MSC Industrial Supply Co.&#xA;800-645-7270&#xA;www.mscdirect.com &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="180" LastEditDate="2015-04-26T01:13:59.263" LastActivityDate="2015-04-26T01:13:59.263" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1168" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1169" CreationDate="2015-04-26T13:05:13.097" Score="12" ViewCount="12676" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently working on a cutting board.  With a core box bit, I made rounded grooves close to the edges of the board.  I would like to have bigger grooves on the corners.  I'm thinking of using a bigger core box bit on my drill press to make the four corners.  I'm trying to avoid my plunge router due to possible side movements while plunging.  I would hate to scrap my work at this point.  On my drill press I have no need of moving the board to make a groove, just a &quot;plunge&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, can I use my plungable router bit on my drill press for a simple &quot;drill&quot; application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastActivityDate="2020-09-17T20:19:04.780" Title="Can I use a plungable router bit on a drill press?" Tags="|router|drilling|router-bit|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1168" CreationDate="2015-04-26T13:34:12.513" Score="11" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of using a bigger core box bit on my drill press to make the four corners. I'm trying to avoid my plunge router due to possible side movements while plunging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard of people using a router bit in a drill press, but I've never heard a reputable source recommend doing it. Personally, I wouldn't try it myself. A drill press runs 10-100x slower than a router, so I wouldn't expect a smooth cut on the drill press.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better solution to the problem would be to use the router but clamp it in place to prevent lateral motion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2015-04-26T13:34:12.513" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1168" CreationDate="2015-04-26T16:10:37.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Can you?&quot; I am sure you can.  &quot;Should you?&quot;  debatable.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Caleb pointed out, routers spin at considerably faster rates than a drill press.  First thing would be to set your drill press to the fastest setting it can achieve.  If you have a good horse-powered drill press it will probably work, but no promises to how nice and clean it cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend using your plunge router to do it.  Assuming you have a decent one and not a mediocre cheap one.  I would start by trying to do what you want on some scrap wood just to make sure you can do it to the level of accuracy that you are looking for.  In theory you could clamp the base of the router onto your work piece to prevent any sideways movement.  The set up will take a little longer but it should make the cuts to your satisfaction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-04-26T16:10:37.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1168" CreationDate="2015-04-26T17:22:51.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are trying to make a hole with a hemispherical bottom.  I would remove most of the material with a regular drill, them switch to the box core bit.  First, of course, try it out on a piece of scrap wood of the same type as the cutting board.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are just making a large diameter dimple, no need to pre-drill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Run the drill press at its maximum speed and lower the drill slowly to minimize tear out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case make sure your board is clamped in position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2015-04-26T22:11:49.827" LastActivityDate="2015-04-26T22:11:49.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1168" CreationDate="2015-04-26T23:57:01.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is side load its not good for the quill. It sounds like your just plunging. If you are, a half round end mill in the size you are looking for will do a better job than a router bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="494" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-04-27T00:33:46.460" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T00:33:46.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="728" CreationDate="2015-04-27T00:41:11.167" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are times when Bondo can save the day. Fill the hole then 10 minutes later re-drill.  Yeah I know, Bondo is crass, but it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="309" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T00:41:11.167" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1174" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1175" CreationDate="2015-04-27T01:43:09.957" Score="6" ViewCount="19083" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a door similar to this:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KFJu8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sliding barn-style door inside a house&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of wood would you recommend and what would be the best way to build it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am guessing it would need to be reinforced from the back?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="212" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-04-27T07:54:29.543" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T14:12:03.627" Title="How can I make a sliding interior 'barn' door?" Tags="|wood-selection|door|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1174" CreationDate="2015-04-27T07:23:09.017" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally-speaking, you can use whatever type of wood and finish appeal to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your application, you may want the door to be either lighter or heavier. If the door is closing off a movie room, you may want a more solid, thicker, heavier door to better absorb and deaden the sound. Of course, if you really want to block sound, you'll probably also want to seal off gaps around the doorway between the wall and the door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the door is simply closing off the kitchen from the hallway and you will need to frequently open and close it but preventing sound from passing through is not a major concern, you may prefer some more lightweight type of construction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The metal straps in your picture may be critical to the door's structure, but it's highly likely they are only aesthetic. Ideally you would drill oval horizontal holes in the faux metal straps, cover the holes with washers, and avoid overtightening the screws. This will allow the wood to expand and contract across the width of the door (across the grain, as pictured) as the humidity changes with the seasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Solid wood&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can assemble the door panel &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/241/49&quot;&gt;as you would any typical panel or tabletop&lt;/a&gt;, then install the faux metal straps for visual enhancement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use solid wood, quartersawn lumber will be less prone to warping. If you prefer the appearance of flatsawn/plainsawn lumber, be sure to alternate the end grain as discussed in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/241/49&quot;&gt;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/241/49&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Plywood/MDF&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could build the door using plywood or MDF (or even MDF-core plywood), using veneers that give the appearance of a solid wood panel, if preferred. If you use plywood, be sure to use a high-quality, many-ply type of plywood such as Baltic birch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Torsion box&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As keshlam noted in a comment on your question, you could also build a hollow-core door, more generally described as a torsion box. This involves building a flat internal skeleton, with thinner outer &quot;skins.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T07:23:09.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1163" CreationDate="2015-04-27T07:52:09.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I run a 3 phase CNC Lathe in my garage, I use an American Rotary 10 HP phase converter. Install was very straightforward quiet and runs great. I am not sure why but the manufacturer of the lathe requested the use of a RPC and not VFD. My Lathe is 5hp and I was instructed to use 20amp at utility box. Here is a video I took when I first installed it. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nITFS1pWmfg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;3 phase converter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="494" LastEditorUserId="494" LastEditDate="2015-04-27T14:57:49.373" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T14:57:49.373" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="417" CreationDate="2015-04-27T12:25:18.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stop shopping at retail and/or home centers and head for the industrial suppliers. You can get any size bit (including number-sizes), any tip, and more types of steel than you knew existed, all in kilogram quantities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They might not have boxes of 3mm x 30mm* low-twist cobalt pilot bits with 1/4 inch shank in stock, but they will know where to order them from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shorter bits don't break as easily&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="496" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T12:25:18.283" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1163" CreationDate="2015-04-27T12:33:41.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Large semi-industrial machines usually use large semi-industrial motors, and there's a large market for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get as much information as you can off the current motor, then find a large motor supply &amp;amp; repair place in the semi-industrial part of town (it's the area with the large city blocks). This will be a not-quite daily request, and they could very well take one look at the picture, say that's an Acme Model 2800, the single-phase version costs $X (3 in stock) and we will give you $Y for the trade-in on your 3-phase model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may find that changing the motor is a simple wrench job, and in total far cheaper than a phase converter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3-phase engines are a lot more efficient than single-phase models, which is why they are preferred in places where they run all day. You will probably not run it all day and therefore will not notice the hit on your power bill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="496" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T12:33:41.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="280" CreationDate="2015-04-27T14:22:19.487" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use two ways to remove the paints:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a chemical for peeling of the paint. Since you do not want that we go to next step...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a heat gun and carefully hover over the wood (keep it at a proper distance so you don't damage the wood). Then after a bit of time use the scraper to slowly peel off the paint. Although it seems risky, its one of the fastest way to peel of the paint if you are careful.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="379" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-04-28T01:30:09.397" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T01:30:09.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1174" CreationDate="2015-04-27T14:33:36.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That door is held together by the metal strips across the face.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;another which can be all wood would have the 'Z' on one side.  You can use any wood, pine would be fairly light and easy to move, but easy to ding up.  Oak would look nice, but be a little heavier, but a good rolling system shouldn't make it a big deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ETA:&#xA;when making one of these it is recommended to do a 'tongue and groove' style.  Put a groove on all the boards, then glue in a 'tongue' (spline) on only one.  Fit them together and then put the braces on. By not glue both sides you let the wood move without twisting the door. [The complete illustrated guide to furniture &amp;amp; cabinet construction by  Andy Rae]  Just read that chapter this weekend end.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5KlRm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://artisanhardware.com/store/sliding-barn-doors/z-barn-door/?gclid=CjwKEAjwvPepBRCoqo37teOD1XsSJAC7v6WQrFlYF71tvYjGnDTbMmbgnz8aZBXdsve-dYr_AWGxoBoCe8Tw_wcB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-27T15:19:26.523" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T15:19:26.523" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1181" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1182" CreationDate="2015-04-27T21:10:18.670" Score="2" ViewCount="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking into building an awning, but having trouble locating some of the materials. Where would I find the hardware in the picture below? I need a somewhat decorative piece of metal to mount the awning to the wall. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also thought I would be able to find plans for building an awning like the one pictured. Is there a good resource for finding plans for woodworking projects, or do I just need to put in the work to create one myself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jj3hT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Awning mount&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="499" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T21:31:35.400" Title="Where to find hardware for awning mount?" Tags="|process|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-04-28T15:52:35.863" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1181" CreationDate="2015-04-27T21:31:35.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That looks like a custom job to me.  Thought it doesn't look to hard to copy.  The hardware also looks like it could be custom made.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The awning has three boards on the bottom, then the pergola boards across.  Then one board on each end of the pergola boards to 'hide' the ends. Last a board across the front to hide the ends and make it look like solid squares on the ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With just one screw holding into the brick, I would guess that most of what holds it securely to the wall is at the top end.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T21:31:35.400" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="280" CreationDate="2015-04-27T22:57:50.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question, &quot;I should cover over them instead?&quot; got me to thinking about yet another solution.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This requires that you can remove the wood in one piece and that those 18' lengths are one piece.  I realize that you have already stated that you see no easy means of removing them, but this might be the solution for the next guy who comes along without that restraint.  I actually had a similar problem where once the decorative beams were removed, I ended up forgetting about them, but replaced the ceiling.  In a different lifetime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the wood, resaw each beam into 3 1x8's and use them to make box beams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Easier said than done and there are obvious problems to be solved along the way, but hey, if you have a bandsaw, planer and enough space (move the equipment outside for a day) it can be done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T22:57:50.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1184" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1190" CreationDate="2015-04-27T23:30:22.353" Score="9" ViewCount="4821" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wasn't sure how to stain the 1&quot; side of my desktop (an 80x30x1&quot; red oak panel), so I thought painter's tape would be a good idea to only stain half at a time. (Half while doing the &quot;bottom&quot; of the table, then tape other side and do the &quot;top&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has left me with a line along the side of the table where the stain is darker on the bottom and lighter on the top, mostly noticeable on the end-grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To avoid this result in the future, what is the typical way to deal with having to stain the &quot;side&quot; of a project? Should I have stained the entire side when doing the bottom? Should I stain the side as a separate process from the top and bottom? Clearly painter's tape was not the right method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, what are my options other than sanding the sides down and starting over, to fix the mismatch in color?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastEditorUserId="180" LastEditDate="2015-04-28T19:13:07.843" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T19:13:07.843" Title="Best method to stain the &quot;side&quot; of a project" Tags="|finishing|staining|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1186" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1211" CreationDate="2015-04-28T03:23:14.250" Score="11" ViewCount="5584" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning construction of a simple gymnastics balance beam which will be 12' long x 4&quot; wide x 4+&quot; deep. Based on various plans found online, I've purchased 6x 1x6 pine boards which I'll laminate to gain the dimensions I need. They're mostly straight, but I'll have to cut them down a bit in order to even the edges after laminating, which I expect will leave me with 4-5&quot; in one dimension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware that e.g. floor joists are installed vertically to maximize stiffness, but if the joined width of this beam ends up equal to the depth, would it sag least when the boards are in a horizontal or vertical orientation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="61" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T18:11:16.743" Title="Will a beam of laminated boards be stronger when the members are vertical or horizontal?" Tags="|glue|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1187" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1189" CreationDate="2015-04-28T03:27:48.197" Score="6" ViewCount="175" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today at a bar we sat at a table that looked like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8oeBo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the darkened areas looked like darkening related to the wood grain while others resembled brush strokes, but only if you looked closely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering how one might be able to create a look like this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="351" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T08:37:25.227" Title="How is a &quot;paintbrushed&quot; distressed texture created?" Tags="|finishing|staining|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1186" CreationDate="2015-04-28T03:37:23.073" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It shouldn't matter.  A 4x4 is just as strong with either side facing up.  If properly glued and clamped, the glue joints on a long grain to long grain joint will be stronger than the wood itself, thus effectively creating a 4x4.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;GlueLam beams are almost always built with the individual boards laying face to face.&#xA;  &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SteZ6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A gluelam beam&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T03:37:23.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1187" CreationDate="2015-04-28T03:40:51.840" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a similar look for a neighbor.  Basically you apply a finish (or use reclaimed wood).  After it dries, add another layer.  Repeat until you have a few layers.  Then sand it off.  Sand deeper on some parts, lighter on others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want, apply a clear coat after you have achieved the look you want to protect it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T03:40:51.840" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1184" CreationDate="2015-04-28T03:42:19.170" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stains tend to penetrate into wood and can wick along the grain, especially with an open grained wood like red oak. For that reason, applying tape to the surface isn't going to give you a clean border as it would with paint -- the stain just seeps underneath the tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to avoid these kinds of problems is to stain the entire project all at once. Certainly, you should at least try to stain each surface all at the same time. Don't try to do one half of a single surface and then the other. If you need to do only some surfaces, stop at the edges and be quick to wipe any drips or beads that might happen at the edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fix the problem you have now, I'd try using an appropriate solvent to re-dissolve the stain pigment or dye and help redistribute it. You'll probably want to do the entire surface so you don't end up with more blotchiness. The right solvent will depend on the kind of stain that you used. Before attempting to fix your panel, recreate the problem on some pieces of scrap and practice solving the problem there; this will give you confidence that the solution will work and also provide an opportunity to practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T03:42:19.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1191" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1208" CreationDate="2015-04-28T03:34:34.897" Score="5" ViewCount="382" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drafted this myself in Blender.  Dado joints are depicted, mortise/tenon joints and bolted joints are not.  This is to-scale, planned with douglas fir 2x4s and jute webbing/coil spring/4 way tie construction/ and then tie on cushions.  Dimensions are about 31&quot; x 7.5' x 36&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never built a couch (or any furniture) before, but have been studying woodworking a lot, so I am looking mostly for tips on how I might improve this, or especially, if it's structurally weak in any way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aHE3i.png&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D6iW4.png&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XYf9N.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="528" OwnerDisplayName="djvs" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2015-04-28T08:20:37.330" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T19:59:39.763" Title="Can I get some tips or criticisms of this couch plan?" Tags="|furniture|design|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1056" CreationDate="2015-04-28T05:57:30.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are times when a conventional cut has the potential for less tear out. If you are routing around the perimeter of an irregular outside shape like a guitar body, both cut directions will need to be used to avoid tear out and the conventional cut being the direction with less potential for tear out in some of the areas. Routing down hill with irregular outside shapes and a final conventional pass works very nicely to avoid tear out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="494" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T05:57:30.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="884" CreationDate="2015-04-28T06:47:54.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Evaporative finish = Lacquer, Shellac. The finish will melt/amalgamate into itself. At a later point if touch up is needed this is good. Solids dissolved in a solvent that evaporates when used&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reactive finish = Varnish reacts with oxygen to cure, Epoxy and modern 2 part poly-automobile paints react with a chemical catalyst to cure. Can amalgamate into itself for a window of time. The Epoxies and 2 part paints kick off isocyanates during the curing process which are odorless and particularly toxic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coalescing = Waterbased, water is the thinner glycol is the solvent the solids are small droplets of cured reactive finish. Kind of a hybrid of the evaporative and reactive. Can amalgamate into itself for a window of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are all film finishes and not waxes or oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Understanding Wood Finishing by Bob Flexner is a great finishing book&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="494" LastEditorUserId="494" LastEditDate="2015-04-28T15:54:54.733" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T15:54:54.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1187" CreationDate="2015-04-28T08:37:25.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To concur with LeeG's response, that does look like it was done by colouring the wood and then sanding through in some areas and not in others. Where the colour is removed most can be a little hard to control especially if the wood is not completely flat to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even for a furniture piece I would strongly recommend applying a clear topcoat for protection. If used on a floor I think this is mandatory, otherwise the wood will begin to look grubby very quickly with even light foot traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a similar look with more control over the lighter and darker areas you can irregularly brush or wipe on on a coloured varnish or gel stain (gel stains are basically slightly thicker coloured varnish). You can do this directly on bare wood, or over wood that has been lightly sealed with thinned shellac or varnish, or with a commercial sanding sealer (which are often primarily thinned shellac or varnish). If you seal the wood the effect is slightly more controllable, as you will more easily be able to wipe colour away from areas of your choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here also I would apply a clear finish for an overall protective coating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Polyurethane varnish is a good choice for the topcoat. Oil-based poly tends to have a slightly yellow cast (quite possibly this was used on the project in the posted photo), the waterbase version goes on milky but dries completely clear. Use at least two full-strength coats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T08:37:25.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1184" CreationDate="2015-04-28T08:52:08.973" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So to avoid this result in the future, what is the proper way to deal with having to stain the &quot;side&quot; of a project? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally you stain adjacent surfaces at the same time, so that you can see and work both surfaces in concert and clean up drips/runs across the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case you were not aware, it's normal for end grain to end up darker (significantly so) as it is much more absorbent than long-grain faces of the same wood. Red oak in particular has &lt;em&gt;extremely&lt;/em&gt; absorbent end grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should I have stained the entire side when doing the bottom? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not normal to stain the bottom since nobody will see it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're using a coloured all-in-one finish that doesn't require a separate topcoat then it's still not a requirement; finishing the undersides of tabletops equally with the top does not appear to be needed as Bob Flexner writes about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/finish_both_sides_not_necessary&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; on Popular Woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also, what are my options other than sanding the sides down and starting over, to fix the mismatch in color?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Planing or scraping would be preferable to sanding. But if sanding is your only available method then sanding back to bare wood and then applying fresh stain may be your best fix here. Care will need to be exercised not to round over edges and corners in particular. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T08:52:08.973" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1186" CreationDate="2015-04-28T09:00:32.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm aware that e.g. floor joists are installed vertically to maximize stiffness, but if the joined width of this beam ends up equal to the depth, would it sag least when the boards are in a horizontal or vertical orientation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same rule as applies to floor joists still applies on a glued-up member such as this and it should be stiffer if the boards are aligned vertically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simple laminations of thin stock would appear to prove this, since the finished glue-up can remain flexible in one direction while being extremely stiff and unyielding in the other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T09:00:32.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1198" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1200" CreationDate="2015-04-28T12:43:11.877" Score="12" ViewCount="1369" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been collecting tools from my grandfather's old workshop. One of the items appears to be a hand drill. What is odd about this is that if you look up hand drill they either function similar to a manual egg beater or a brace-and-bit hand-drill. Closest I found was the icon for hand drills on eBay. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would operate with one hand which is superior to the aforementioned hand drills but for pure drilling I would think the others perform more efficiently. What is this &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; for and could I use this in modern wood-working?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gYPtE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Excadrill&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After reading some of the responses and comments I looked back at the tool with more information. I noticed the top unscrews and it contained 3 small &quot;pins&quot;. &#xA;The picture is enlarged. The objects are about 1 inch long. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uJpm4.png&quot; alt=&quot;Pins&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The jaws are perfectly sized for for these pins. It appears I had guessed, wrong potentially, that this was a drill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-04-29T15:21:02.923" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T17:38:11.183" Title="Is this a specific kind of hand drill?" Tags="|hand-tools|drilling|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1191" CreationDate="2015-04-28T12:49:53.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really think you need an angle in the back leg. You're going to have your guests sitting pretty upright if you don't and it won't be very comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T12:49:53.463" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1198" CreationDate="2015-04-28T12:59:14.003" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's a push drill, sometimes referred to as a &quot;Yankee drill&quot;. It has the advantage of working in some places where you can't fit a crank or brace-and-bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T12:59:14.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1186" CreationDate="2015-04-28T13:05:08.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The strength of a board is in it's dimensions.  A 2 by 12 is definitely going to be stronger being vertical, because it is 12&quot; of wood vs. 2&quot; if it were flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when you are done (assuming a good job laminating), which ever dimension is the wider should be the stronger.  If you just use nails and screws to put it together then I would keep the lamination's vertical since you have discrete fail points and nails are designed for shearing strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T13:05:08.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1198" CreationDate="2015-04-28T13:24:00.733" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a push drill as @keshlam said. They're particularly useful for drilling small diameter holes quickly, easily and accurately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be a bit tricky to drill a small hole steadily while you're holding a big heavy electric drill, or wobbling around with an &quot;egg beater&quot; style hand drill, which is where push drills come in. You can also use them one-handed which can be useful for when you need to hold something still while drilling (or for example hold multiple pieces in position for drilling through them all simultaneously).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T13:24:00.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1198" CreationDate="2015-04-28T13:25:01.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are great if you need to make small holes, such as pilot holes.  Very quick.  I have used mine when I have a bit checked in my cordless drill for driving screws, and need to make pilot holes.  Rather than switching bits in the drill every time, I use the Yankee drill to make the pilot holes, then use the cordless drill to drive screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T13:25:01.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1191" CreationDate="2015-04-28T13:35:06.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say you don't have enough triangles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The short front legs are the most obvious place, they will tend to be a weak spot.  They only have one point of attachment and that is on the end, the weakest joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would put triangle pieces on all four of the legs in the middle and attach to the cross piece under the seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a chance of racking the whole thing from side to side (the long way).  For that I would put a board (an other triangle) from the bottom of the feet on the outside (in the back) to the next upper corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FLOZW.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T13:35:06.447" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1198" CreationDate="2015-04-28T13:36:01.973" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to some great 50's footage at the Fender guitar factory of one in use. It's only a few seconds but I think it shows its usefulness in a production situation. I suppose rechargeable battery powered drills have replaced it.&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lfXt7px3rQo&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be&amp;amp;t=1m55s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Yankee drill at Fender factory late 50's&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="494" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T13:36:01.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1191" CreationDate="2015-04-28T13:37:57.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say you probably want some triangular braces under where the legs meet the lower (front to back) supports. They probably only need to be a couple of inches deep/tall, glued/pinned/screwed into the legs and underside of the supports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may not seem like they'd do much, but you should find they'll add a lot of rigidity. Anywhere you can add in triangular bracing without spoiling the look is going to help against the kind of lateral racking forces you're going to get when people stand up and sit down, and are moving around on the couch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T13:37:57.563" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1168" CreationDate="2015-04-28T13:47:32.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could, but as others have mentioned the speed of the bit (RPM) is going to be a bit of an issue. You're going to have to plunge slowly, and I would recommend &quot;pecking&quot; the bit into the timber. That is, plunge the bit by a small amount, then lift it all of the way up out the timber, plunge it in again, and repeat until you've reached the desired depth. Even better if you can have a compressed air line constantly blowing where you're cutting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is all because router bits rely on high RPMs to clear chips and dust out of the hole being routed, whereas when you're drilling at a few hundred to a few thousand RPM, the debris won't clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're also going to have to make sure that your bit doesn't heat up too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, I'd say try it on some scrap timber first and see how you go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T13:47:32.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1191" CreationDate="2015-04-28T14:17:42.940" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would build the bottom grid where the cushions sit with mortise and tenon joints.  Then attach it to the back legs and side legs using a dado.  The two short legs shouldn't receive much lateral stress - You can probably get away with just a mortise and tenon joint there.  If you change the orientation of the long horizontal boards, you could eliminate the middle legs all together (a 2x4 will only sag about 0.1 inches with 250 pounds directly in the middle).  I put a 10 degree angle on the back, which is probably too much, but it gives you an idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you attach the back to the base using a glued dado, it isn't going to rack at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8VzNo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bench Image&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T14:17:42.940" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1198" CreationDate="2015-04-28T15:17:27.223" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Yankee drill and one of these.  The handle of the Yankee drill is hollow metal to hold a half dozen different diameter drill bits. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My version of this tool came with a removable screwdriver blade.  I imagine there are a variety of blades available. If you view the video @mike fleck referenced you will notice that the worker put small screws into the the neck of the guitar, then used this tool to tighten them by pressing up and down a couple of times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my experience and the video of one in use tells me that this is a screwdriver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-04-01T17:38:11.183" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T17:38:11.183" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1186" CreationDate="2015-04-28T17:12:57.113" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mechanical engineer here. The answer is it depends. The glue strength, wood strength, and beam dimensions will all play a factor in determining which orientation is stronger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.conradfp.com/pdf/ch4-Mechanical-Properties-of-Wood.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Eastern White Pine (PDF) &lt;/a&gt;, modulus of rupture is 59,000 kPa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.titebond.com/product.aspx?id=21051713-5cce-4925-a653-3bff0a0f71ab&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Titebond II&lt;/a&gt; lists its bond strength (I'm assuming shear) as 26,500 kPa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll often hear that the wood will fail prior to the glue failing, which is true for stress perpendicular to the grain. Eastern White Pine's cross-grain modulus is a mere 2,100 kPa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bending&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Beam stress&lt;/a&gt; is calculated by moment (torque) on a beam section, multiplied by the distance from the neutral axis (center of beam for a rectangle), and divided by the cross sectional moment of area, &quot;I&quot;. For a point load at the center of a simply supported beam (person of weight &quot;W&quot; in the middle of a balance beam of length &quot;L&quot;), the maximum moment will be 1/4*W*L.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The moment of area is equal to 1/12*h^3*w, where h is the thickness of the beam, and w is the width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So your maximum stress at the bottom of the beam would be 3*W*L/(2*h^2*w). For a laminate beam made up of six 19mm x 140mm boards stacked vertically on top of each other (5.5&quot; wide, 4.5&quot; thick), with a 150 lb gymnast in the middle of the 16' beam, your maximum stress at the bottom will be 2,681 kPa. That gives a safety factor of 22 (keep in mind that's for a static loading, not dynamic).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;However, your stress at the bottom laminate surface (one board thickness up) will be 1,790 kPa, which is only a safety factor of 15, since the glue strength is the new weak point.&lt;/strike&gt; I took a bit more time to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rosboro.com/pdfs/techguide060326.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;research glulam properties (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;,  (after reading LeeG's answer) and thought about it some more, and realized I had oversimplified the problem. Wood is anisotropic with many defects, and the grain isn't always parallel to the board length. I also didn't account for the lumber and the glue to have different &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Young%27s_modulus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;moduli of elasticity&lt;/a&gt;, which could allow one to stretch a bit and the other to take up some of the stress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glulam beams can also use stronger or flaw-free boards on the top and bottom (where the highest stresses are) to increase the overall beam capacity. A good analogy would be an I beam, with the web in the center mainly dealing with only shear loading. I also suspect glulam beams are laid up face to face, since it's much cheaper to use many narrow boards than a few very wide boards oriented vertically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;END EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the other option, turn the beam on its side, with the boards standing on edge, and the strength of the glue is no longer a factor. It merely holds the boards together for an additive effect from width, not a square effect from thickness. This puts less critical dependency on your glue up technique and the glue strength. Plus, it will be 5.5&quot; thick, and 4.5&quot; wide, which will be even stronger in bending.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So since you're dealing with a beam that's roughly the same dimensions in width and height (a big plus is the ~1&quot; extra in thickness gained by standing them on edge), the boards you're using are all the same grade of lumber (I assume), and you may or may not have flaws in your glue up technique (no one's perfect), I'd stick with standing the boards on edge and gluing them side by side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR: For this application, laminate boards standing on their edges, because science.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastEditorUserId="38" LastEditDate="2015-04-29T18:11:16.743" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T18:11:16.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1212" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1221" CreationDate="2015-04-28T18:41:35.033" Score="7" ViewCount="5428" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never used a tap and die set but I find myself in the market to purchase some for a couple project I would like to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What features should I be looking for, ease of use, etc.?  Anything I should avoid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for 3/4&quot; to 1 1/2&quot; size die and taps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-04-28T19:01:58.237" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T09:48:47.633" Title="What to look for when buying a tap and die set (for wood)" Tags="|tools|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1212" CreationDate="2015-04-28T18:48:06.567" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a generic set from Harbor Freight relatively cheap and it works quite well. I use it in wood, mild steel, cast iron, and even used in in hardened steel (with some oil) and they work just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/tap-die/60-piece-sae-metric-tap-and-die-set-35407.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/tap-die/60-piece-sae-metric-tap-and-die-set-35407.html&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="189" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T18:48:06.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1191" CreationDate="2015-04-28T19:59:39.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your design needs a wee bit of work before it becomes a complete or workable design.  Design is an iterative process of which you have made the first iteration.  Two or three more cycles and you should be ready to begin construction.  Some things that I think you  should consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Others have addressed the fact that the long horizontals in the seat structure will deflect vertically; they will also be have large horizontal loads induced by the jute webbing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Well constructed lap joints as well as mortise and tenons can be considered as rigid joints lessening or eliminating the need for triangular bracing (think Danish Modern furniture from the mid 20th century.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In your next iteration make the 2x4's their correct size (1 1/5 x 3 1/2) and consider the orientation of your mortice and tenon joints.  Also will they be blind or through tenons?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Although many woodworkers eschew mechanical fasteners, you might consider the concept of &quot;screw and glue&quot; making sure not to screw into end grain.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Even if the structure for the back remains vertical, you still need to consider the cushioning to be inclined.  With your 36&quot; depth for the seat, your cushioning should be 14&quot; thick at its base.  This suggests that the seat cushion is going to thicker and that the seat structure will have to be lowered considerably.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck on your next iteration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T19:59:39.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1215" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1217" CreationDate="2015-04-28T20:03:00.297" Score="17" ViewCount="27990" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most cutting tools have a certain removal rate of material at which they should operate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't want to go too slow because it takes forever.&#xA;And if you go to fast the tool heats up too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is concerned with the latter one on a router.&#xA;I heard that the usual technique is to plunge the bit only a little and not the full depth of the cut. Then make several cuts plunging deeper every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That makes sense. It reduces how much material is removed in one go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Couldn't I achieve the same thing by doing one single cut with the bit plunged to the final depth, cutting very slowly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problems that I see with the first approach:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it only uses the top part of the bit, which will become more and more&#xA;dull while the rest of the bit is not used that much&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;doing that same cut over an over again is could cause marks of the&#xA;different cuts to be visible&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the better way of doing it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="443" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-07-18T15:25:36.903" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T15:25:36.903" Title="Should I do many shallow quick cuts or a single deep slow one with my router?" Tags="|technique|router|router-bit|cutting|durability|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1215" CreationDate="2015-04-28T20:23:41.717" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;For cuts with a router, slow also can mean burnt material. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have a complex profile to cut, I either break it into multiple passes with multiple bits, or I sneak up on it, going slightly deeper each pass. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some folks also make a deep pass at &lt;em&gt;close to&lt;/em&gt; the final depth, then make another shallow, fast pass at final depth to finish up the cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e.g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cZZrC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T20:23:41.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1215" CreationDate="2015-04-28T20:29:27.897" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Always make sure your bits are sharp and take small bites with the router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the router bit travels too slowly, it can burn and/or burnish your workpiece. Heat from taking too large a bite or moving slowly can also destroy the temper on the router bit, causing it to dull faster and/or break. Carbide bits are more resistant to heat than high-speed steel bits, but both can dull and break under high heat. Also, larger-shank bits are able to dissipate the heat more readily than smaller-shank bits. For example, all else being equal, a bit with a 1/2&quot; shank will stay cooler than the equivalent bit with a 1/4&quot; shank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often you should remove the bulk of the waste with a different tool first--for example, a saw or drill--then finish up with shallow passes with the router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes you might also use one router bit for the first &quot;hogging out&quot; pass, then switch to the bit that has the final profile you want. For example, when routing dovetails, a common recommendation is to remove the bulk of material with a straight bit, then finish up with the dovetail bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-04-28T20:40:18.827" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T20:40:18.827" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1212" CreationDate="2015-04-28T20:29:38.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not that it has been an exhaustive search but when it comes to Taps and Dies more effort seems to be put on technique and the wood used then the actual taps/dies used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one universal point that makes sense it that with taps save yourself the trouble and get the taps &lt;em&gt;with&lt;/em&gt; the matching drill bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you are using them for just wood they should last much longer then if they were used on metal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like I said in my comment you should be looking for ones that make larger threads. Most of the  larger taps and dies I saw were for making broom handles for example. The do make one with tighter threads. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/tapping-threads/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This video&lt;/a&gt; shows a bench using machine threaded taps and the builder praises them  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-04-28T21:21:10.707" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T21:21:10.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1215" CreationDate="2015-04-28T20:34:00.393" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've tried both with a router.  Cutting a 3/8th in deep groove though a board is a lot more work and it is a lot easier to mess it up.  I burned a lot more wood.  You also have to push harder which means it is easier to wobble the router as you move it along.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I generally go for 1/8&quot; passes, for 1/2&quot; or bigger bits.  It doesn't really take long to make the pass, reset the bit to the next depth and run it again. Each time it is actually a little easier. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do find if you are going to go for broke, leaving enough to do a 'final' pass to clean everything up is a very good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T20:34:00.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1220" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-28T20:34:20.687" Score="6" ViewCount="1465" Body="&lt;p&gt;I stumbled upon the below picture today via social media titled &lt;a href=&quot;http://countrydesignstyle.com/this-old-wood/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Aging Wood Instantly&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vDkhB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sample image&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The method shortly summed is staining the wood first with &lt;strong&gt;black tea&lt;/strong&gt; and then, after drying, with &lt;strong&gt;vinegar that's imbued with steel wool&lt;/strong&gt; for 24 hours.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the result looks like many other possible stains, it got me wondering, what, if any, good properties would such a stain have? Any reasons why it's not a sustainable idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="104" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T21:09:32.903" Title="What qualities do tea and steel wool vinegar offer as stains?" Tags="|finishing|staining|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1212" CreationDate="2015-04-28T20:57:28.553" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most die and tap sets are made for metal and as such, the threads may be too fine to be supported in wood.  There are sets specifically made to cut threads in wood, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.garrettwade.com/complete-tap-die-set-1-2-in/p/98N11.01/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one sold by Garrett Wade&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bealltool.com/products/threading/threader.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one made by Beall&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to use a standard machine thread, you should reinforce the threads with epoxy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T20:57:28.553" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1220" CreationDate="2015-04-28T21:08:28.373" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nit, the only downside to using such stains has to do with repeat-ability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you come back the next day and mix up a new batch of stain, it may not match the batch from the day before. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So while it's fine for single small objects, or areas that you can do with one batch, you may run into trouble if you've got multiple objects that you want to match, or a large surface that requires mixing up a new batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From an environmental perspective they're great- no solvents and no VOCs (Volatile Organic Compounds). If you use a powerful tea, you may inbue the piece with a nice smell, too. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T21:08:28.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1220" CreationDate="2015-04-28T21:09:32.903" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The process is known as wood pickling.  The vinegar (acetic acid) combines with the steel wool to create iron acetate which reacts with the various tannins in the wood to darken it from grey to black.  Some woods don't have many tannins, so you can apply the black tea to add some.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can dilute the mixture if it darkens your wood too much.  The effect doesn't go very deep, so it can be sanded off.  It doesn't provide any additional protection to the wood, so some sort of top coat would be necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T21:09:32.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1212" CreationDate="2015-04-28T21:10:27.137" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A coarser Square thread or Acme thread tap and die would be good for wood as they should be stronger and more durable than the common V threads, especially for soft materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="453" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T21:10:27.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1215" CreationDate="2015-04-28T21:23:57.183" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;One problem with a deep cut is the wood chips needs to be removed from the cut area, or it will be recut and the dust will add friction and heat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to do a deep cut you can use a constant stream of compressed air to clear the wood chips and cool the cutter at the same time, which allows you to not burn the wood and also cut faster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="453" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T21:23:57.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1215" CreationDate="2015-04-28T22:51:33.083" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;More, shallow hits is generally a better philosophy. The other answers have made good points but something they haven't touched on is &quot;chatter&quot;. If you use a single, deep pass (even with a slow &quot;feed rate&quot;, that is the rate of travel of your router), due partially because of chip clearance problems and partially just because the bit will have a longer part of the edge &quot;hitting&quot; the timber with each revolution, the bit will tend to be pushed out away from the cutting face with each revolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each time the bit is pushed away from the timber you're going to end up with a judder mark left on the timber. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iN4Xz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;router bit chatter&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This'll be lessened by using a spiral-cut router bit rather than a straight-fluted one, and also by taking shallower passes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T22:51:33.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1215" CreationDate="2015-04-28T23:13:51.403" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always &quot;knew&quot; the answer, but I didn't know why.  So I emailed the question to router expert Pat Warner.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www,patwarner.com&quot;&gt;His web site&lt;/a&gt; contains a wealth of information on safe, efficient use of a router.  His response was that in addition to creating burns and chatter in the cut, the deeper cut causes the motor to draw more amps, possibly even to the point of burning out the motor, if you don't break the bit first.  The long bits are made for trimming the edge of a board, where you can take very light cuts.  Pat recommends never making a cut deeper than 3/16&quot; on an inside cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T23:13:51.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1198" CreationDate="2015-04-29T00:09:25.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=push%20screwdriver&amp;amp;safe=off&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;push screwdriver&lt;/a&gt;, not a drill, on the Mike Fleck's answer there's a video. I've used it, it's handy for large quantity of medium size screws(smaller tend to jump out, larger are easier to screw by rotary movement)... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course if you don't have electric analogue by hand...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="506" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T00:09:25.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1229" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-29T15:42:35.343" Score="4" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;removed the seats to some chairs I just purchased but have never seen this type of construction. What is it called?&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/obe5P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Kat" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T16:03:23.797" Title="refinishing dining chairs" Tags="|furniture|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-04-29T16:13:13.120" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1230" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-29T15:53:13.010" Score="16" ViewCount="4218" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HawaH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;chair construction**strong text**&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I removed the seats from dining chairs I just bought but have never seen this type of construction. What is it called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="513" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T15:36:30.067" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T15:36:30.067" Title="What is the name of the corner joint with grooves on this chair?" Tags="|joinery|furniture|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1230" CreationDate="2015-04-29T16:01:40.100" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;While the corner brace is pretty common in chairs I've never seen what appears to be a 'finger' joint incorporated with it.  But that is the best I can guess, a finger joint for the brace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T16:01:40.100" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1230" CreationDate="2015-04-29T16:15:35.370" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks to be some sort of Finger joint, probably used as an Assembly joint to make it easier to assemble. You could apply glue to the corner brace, then run a screw through it, and not have to worry about clamping it while the glue dries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T16:15:35.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1230" CreationDate="2015-04-29T16:45:19.743" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with the other answers that it's best called a &lt;em&gt;finger joint&lt;/em&gt; or maybe a &lt;em&gt;finger jointed corner brace&lt;/em&gt;. You could also call it a &lt;em&gt;box joint&lt;/em&gt; if you want to distinguish it from the tapered finger joints that are sometimes used to join boards end-to-end in stock made up of shorter pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The point of a corner brace is to add support to the corner joint. Usually, the brace is connected to each rail with glue and screws. Using a finger joint here adds a lot of glue area in a shearing direction, so the connection between brace and rails should be very strong even without mechanical fasteners. Forming that joint in a production setting would be fast and cheap, and it would save the cost of maybe 16 screws per chair and the time needed to drive them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found another example at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dutchcrafters.com/furniture/glossary/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dutchcrafters.com&lt;/a&gt;, which describes these braces as &quot;grooved&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v6kS3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;finger jointed corner brace&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T16:45:19.743" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1235" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1237" CreationDate="2015-04-29T18:31:32.840" Score="22" ViewCount="42220" Body="&lt;p&gt;At my woodshop, a lot of the workbenches have holes in the tops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ex400.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wooden workbench with two rows of round holes&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm told these are for &quot;bench dogs&quot;. What are bench dogs and how do they work?  Why they're called &quot;dogs&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2017-07-02T20:35:03.137" Title="How do bench dogs work?" Tags="|workbench|bench-dogs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1236" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1238" CreationDate="2015-04-29T18:34:00.377" Score="7" ViewCount="2418" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about building &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zgyQJ8ZaXpY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this box joint jig&lt;/a&gt; so I can make my joints with a single blade (rather than having to pull out my dado set). The problem is that I've got one of them fancy Freud blades that has angled teeth (adjacent teeth are pointed in a different direction). It makes great, clean, quiet cuts, but for non-through cuts, it leaves a little ridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know they make tablesaw blades that don't have the angle on their teeth, but I can't find identify where it's listed online whether it's angled or not. Is there a generic name or description for this type of blade?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-05-03T19:53:28.543" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T19:53:28.543" Title="How do I look for a table saw blade with non-angled teeth?" Tags="|table-saw|jig|saw-blade|box-joint|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1235" CreationDate="2015-04-29T18:35:04.697" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bench_dog&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bench dogs&lt;/a&gt; allow you to clamp a long workpiece that wouldn't normally fit in the jaws of the bench vise. There's a set of dogs that attach to the vise, and a set that attach on the table, essentially making one really big vise. One application would be holding down a board for hand planing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZLLVjm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Image courtesy of Wikipedia)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're usually in the form of pegs with a lip that sit in the pre-drilled dog holes and act as a stop. In the picture you included in your post, the brass pegs are the bench dogs. Note that they have a flat milled face to provide a better clamping surface. Other versions of wooden or plastic dogs are often square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason there are multiple dog holes is so that varying length boards can be secured by selecting the right set of holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;Pure speculation on my part, but they could be called &quot;dogs&quot; because they resemble a prairie dog popping out of its hole.&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a little Googling, turns out the engineering term &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dog_(engineering)&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;dog&lt;/a&gt;&quot; is used for denoting a device to prevent movement. It is thought to be derived from how a dog (the animal) can bite and hold something. Add on that it's used in a bench, and there you have it. (I still like my explanation better.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastEditorUserId="38" LastEditDate="2015-04-29T18:53:38.933" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T18:53:38.933" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1236" CreationDate="2015-04-29T19:04:33.980" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want to pay attention to the type of tooth grind, which describes how the individual teeth are shaped. &lt;a href=&quot;http://vermontamerican.com/article/circular-saw-blade-anatomy-grind-types/&quot;&gt;Vermont American&lt;/a&gt; has a good resource for types of grinds. Any grind combination with at least one flat tooth should give you a flat-bottomed cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So good candidates would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flat Top Grind (often used for ripping)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Triple Chip Grind (for hard, abrasive materials)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Multipurpose Carbide Tip (ripping, crosscutting)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tri-Grind (general combination grind)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is likely a Flat Top Grind, since there are no angled teeth that may protrude above the height of the flat teeth. Many ripping blades are FTG, so just check the description prior to buying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-04-29T22:33:42.533" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T22:33:42.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1236" CreationDate="2015-04-29T19:55:02.597" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.forrestblades.com/10-custom-woodworker-ii-saw-blade-for-square-cut-box-and-finger-joints-40-teeth.html&quot;&gt;Forrest sells a blade&lt;/a&gt; which is totally flat.  If you have an old saw blade that needs resharpening, most sharpening companies can regrind your blade when they sharpen it to make it a flat top grind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T19:55:02.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1235" CreationDate="2015-04-29T20:01:58.543" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to bench dogs (explained well by Doresoom above), there are other devices that use the same holes.  A holdfast uses the thickness of the bench to hold down a piece of wood with no additional clamps.  You can also get a product called Wonder Dogs that let you apply pressure at odd angles.  These combine with your bench to allow clamping work pieces of many shapes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ndgWP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;HoldFast&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kuYij.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wonder Dog and Wonder Pup&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T20:01:58.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1241" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1244" CreationDate="2015-04-29T20:24:03.080" Score="9" ViewCount="15003" Body="&lt;p&gt;As part of my building of a workbench as referenced in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/204/community-project-lets-build-a-workbench&quot;&gt;this meta post&lt;/a&gt;, I attached some wheels to the bottom of the bench by securing some 2x4x4 blocks to the corner of each foot.  Over time, the wheels sagged and eventually one of the blocks ripped out, as I'd just used screws to hold the wooden wheel mount in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When one is attaching wheels to a heavy piece of furniture (like a workbench), what are some methods one can use to ensure the wheels remain stable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-16T16:43:08.487" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T03:49:03.900" Title="How do I secure wheels to a workbench?" Tags="|workbench|community-project|stability|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1241" CreationDate="2015-04-29T20:29:26.503" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would use bolts, if I remember correctly I used bolts to attach wheels to my table/cart that I made, 12-14 years ago and they are still going fine.  I attached them to 2x4's that were a part of the lower frame structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They don't need to be real big, but by having the bolt go though something (with a good washer on either end) you can prevent the 'easy' tearout that can happen with screws or nails.  Screws only hold as well as the wood their blade digs into and will slowly work their way out, ripping the wood over time.  The bolt, the wood or the wheel has to snap for the bolt not to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T20:29:26.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1241" CreationDate="2015-04-29T20:51:07.347" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Support the bolt that you're using as an axle on both sides. In other words, don't cantilever the wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will reduce the moment the bolt is applying to the wooden frame to effectively zero (it takes its &quot;leverage&quot; away).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K5dhA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T20:51:07.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1241" CreationDate="2015-04-29T20:51:55.787" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the problems with putting wheels on a work bench, is it often isn't stable enough for some of the stuff we do on the bench (hand planing for instance).  Rockler has a set of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/workbench-caster-kit-4-pack&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;workbench casters&lt;/a&gt; that lock down to allow the bench to roll, but then can be popped up to put the bench back on its own legs for stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f3v8P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rockler Workbench Caster Kit&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T20:51:55.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1241" CreationDate="2015-04-29T21:20:20.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not rely on just common wood screws to hold something heavy... lag bolts with washers can be used the same way but they will bite into more wood and be less likely to be pulled out.. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="453" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T21:20:20.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1236" CreationDate="2015-04-29T22:35:08.367" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's talk teeth! There are more types of grinds, but I feel these are the applicable ones for your question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Flat top (FT/FTB)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA; An FT or FTB blade is one which has flat teeth that you're looking for.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fPrIj.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Alternate Top Bevel (ATB)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;An Alternate Top Bevel (It will be marked ATB on the blade) is one which has alternating beveled teeth, like the one you mentioned.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vzp2e.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Combination/&quot;all purpose&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There are also combination or &quot;all-purpose&quot; blades which have &quot;groups&quot; of teeth, a set of ATB teeth, followed by one flat top tooth.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V00Qr.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Branding&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;You're likely to see an FT blade marketed as a rip blade and an ATB marketed as a cross cut blade. The blades will also probably be marked wit the cut, though you can also just look at them and see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So which one?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The problem you're likely ton encounter is that FT blades are typically meant for ripping, which means you're going to have a smaller number of teeth (they're meant to take big bites), where an ATB blades are for cross cuts, so they are likely to have the larger number of teeth you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combination blades have a large number of teeth, and that finishing flat tooth may get you the flat bottom you're looking for. I think this is probably what you'll want, if the Forrest blade Lee mentioned doesn't do it for you (Forum posts and reviews seem to indicate it's good, but it is pricey).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="180" LastEditDate="2015-04-29T23:48:46.750" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T23:48:46.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1247" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1258" CreationDate="2015-04-29T23:47:33.900" Score="11" ViewCount="6926" Body="&lt;p&gt;How is this cutting board handle possible? The only way I can think of is that it was done by hand with a gouge, but it looks too clean for that. Can an inset handle, such as the one pictured below, be done with power tools?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TO5jb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Handle from cutting board&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="195" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-04-30T16:03:06.817" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T17:51:43.950" Title="How can I make an inset cutting board handle?" Tags="|technique|power-tools|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1248" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1251" CreationDate="2015-04-29T23:48:39.257" Score="6" ViewCount="471" Body="&lt;p&gt;This cherry lumber has some faint, but definitely noticeable, green streaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N32hL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;green-streaked cherry&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Source: me&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to give the piece I make with these boards a natural-colored finish, but not if the streaks will show. How can I eliminate, or at least reduce, the visibility of these green streaks? Would a dark stain hide them, or could I remove them before putting on something like Danish oil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="281" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T00:25:55.020" Title="How can I remove green streaks from cherry lumber?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1249" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1254" CreationDate="2015-04-29T23:56:27.493" Score="5" ViewCount="796" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1236/non-angled-tablesaw-blade&quot;&gt;This question's&lt;/a&gt; answers suggest buying a table saw blade with a flat top grind (FTG). I haven't seen any of these locally, and I happen to have at least one dull carbide-tipped, alternating angled tooth blade, so how can I re-grind this blade to have flat topped teeth?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="281" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T05:19:27.323" Title="How can I give a circular saw blade a flat top grind?" Tags="|sharpening|tool-modification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1247" CreationDate="2015-04-30T00:07:35.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use a router with a cove (ball nose) bit. This will create the sloped effect around the edges. Your cutting board would be clamped vertically and you would start in the center and move out to each side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/crzbN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;diagram of various router bit shapes and their corresponding cuts&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="519" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-04-30T13:30:41.470" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T13:30:41.470" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1248" CreationDate="2015-04-30T00:25:55.020" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on how deep they are, but I suspect they are very shallow.  So I would either run them through my planer at a minimal setting, or use a hand sander to sand off the discoloration.  When my cut lumber sits outdoors drying it gets discolored strongly, but it still only takes a couple passes of the planer to have nice clean beautiful wood.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, yes a darker stain would likely hide it as well.  I personally would try one of the two ways I listed to remove it first though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T00:25:55.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1253" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-30T02:46:26.490" Score="11" ViewCount="4331" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the general uses for the holes I have seen only require individual holes. When more than one bench dog is used they are used in parallel holes so the distance is not usually a factor. I suppose it is possible there is some hardware that makes use of two or more holes simultaneously. If such hardware did exist the dog hole placement would be a factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, is there a general recommended distance between dog holes in both directions? And by both directions I mean lengthwise and crosswise on the bench. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A related question would be: At what point would you have too many dog holes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2019-02-12T23:54:20.400" Title="Is there a recommended distance between dog holes on a work bench?" Tags="|workbench|bench-dogs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1249" CreationDate="2015-04-30T03:07:44.463" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I happen to have at least one dull carbide-tipped, alternating angled tooth blade&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt that it's even possible to create a FTG blade from a ATB blade. You might be able to flatten the tops of the beveled teeth somewhat, so that they're still beveled but leave a flat bottomed kerf, but you'd have to remove a lot of material to do it. Since silicon carbide is among the hardest of materials (it's a 9.5 on the Mohs scale, where diamond is a 10), removing a lot of material isn't going to be easy. Your best bet, if you really want to do it, would be to send it out to a saw blade sharpening service that can do the job right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the right solution, though, is to send your ATB blade out for resharpening as an ATB blade, and buy a blade that was designed to be FTG from the start. Amazon carries FTG blades with prices as low as $16, so it's hard to see much point in paying someone to convert an old blade to FTG and getting a mediocre (at best) substitute for the real thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another good option is to use one of the blades from a stacked dado set. Stacked dado set blades are always flat ground because they're meant to produce flat-bottomed dadoes, and there's no rule that says that you can't use just one of the blades. Choose one of the outer blades, as the outer blades generally have more teeth than the inner &quot;chipper&quot; blades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2015-04-30T05:19:27.323" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T05:19:27.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1253" CreationDate="2015-04-30T03:38:05.180" Score="11" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;is there a general recommended distance between dog holes in both directions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Common sense says that the holes should be spaced from the vice in increments that are less than or equal to the maximum opening of the vice, so that you can clamp any sized object without needing shims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the crosswise direction, consider how large an object would need to be before you'd feel the need to use two dogs at each end instead of one. The holes in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.veritastools.com/Products/Page.aspx?p=174&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Veritas Carver's Bench&lt;/a&gt; look like they're spaced on a 4&quot; grid, but that's a specialty bench that's meant to hold relatively small workpieces of various shapes and from several directions. If you'll be working mostly on narrow boards, a single row of holes may be all you need. If you'll work on wide panels, a row of holes on each side of the bench might make sense. In other words, it really depends on you and how you'll use the bench. If you're not sure, remember that it's far easier to drill more holes than to undrill them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;it is possible there is some hardware that makes use of two or more holes &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=69837&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;certainly possible&lt;/a&gt;, but a tool that depended on a specific hole spacing would have a very small market since there's no standard spacing. There's not even a standard &lt;em&gt;shape&lt;/em&gt; for dog holes -- round is popular these days because it's easy to make round holes, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=31131&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;square bench dogs&lt;/a&gt; and holes are very traditional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At what point would you have too many dog holes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have too many holes when you could do all the same work just as easily with fewer holes. You have too many holes when the holes get in the way of your work -- small parts or tools fall through them, you need to be careful about positioning your work so that none of the legs of the chair or table land on a hole, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're building a bench and you're asking for advice about dog hole spacing, this may be a case where fewer is more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2015-04-30T14:35:03.233" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T14:35:03.233" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1256" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1260" CreationDate="2015-04-30T04:49:31.623" Score="6" ViewCount="673" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two pieces of maple furniture, a desk with a large water stain, and a kitchen table with minor scratches an exposed wood. My problem is my wife &lt;strong&gt;loves&lt;/strong&gt; the finishes on these pieces of furniture, so ideally what ever finish I use will match what is already there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any suggestions for insuring the new finish you are apply matches the character of the piece as is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both pieces of furniture are manufactured by Room &amp;amp; Board and where bought second hand. Based on similar looking pieces of furniture on the R &amp;amp; B website, the finish is &quot;lacquer&quot;. I would describe the desk as having a more &quot;natural look&quot; with a very light gloss, not so much as painted on the surface, but soaked in. I would describe the table as having a bit more gloss, a more painted on the surface feel, but still a &quot;natural look&quot;.  Both pieces seem easy to damage (scratch,  water stain, etc...), but the desk is particularly bad. (Note: This is not something I am looking to chance I am just reporting this for description services.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below are some pictures. Thanks!&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3jd5u.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y1jKX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;desk&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ND0Oh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;table up close&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="520" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T13:15:20.023" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T13:15:20.023" Title="How can I match a finish on furniture when re-finishing?" Tags="|finishing|furniture|staining|restoration|natural-wood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1241" CreationDate="2015-04-30T12:34:28.267" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the wheels and load, and without more information on what exactly failed (wood? Screws? Wheel?) it will be hard to give you an answer specific to your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I built my large worktable, I had 4x4 posts as legs, but they were still too small for the 500lb rated load wheels I wanted to use, so added 2x4's wrapped around the legs to end up with, essentially, 7x7 lumber ends. With glue and screws, it provided plenty of stable surface to use 3&quot; (7.5cm) lag bolts.  When the wheels are locked, the table is very strong and stable, and when unlocked it moves easily despite its weight and size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, looking at how the table is designed, I believe the main issue is that you are screwing into the endgrain of the wood.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodgears.ca/shop-tricks/endgrain_screw.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Screws don't hold very well into endgrain.&lt;/a&gt; So I suggest you attach a 2x4x4 to the leg, with the endgrain parallel to the floor (horizontal).  Now you have two 2x4's next to each other - close to a 4x4.  One presenting end grain to the floor, the other presenting cross grain to the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now attach another 2x4x4 flat to the bottom of the leg.  You can use screws to go from this flat plate to the cross grain piece without special techniques.  Screwing the end leg board to the plate, though, should either use pocket holes from the end grain presenting board into the plate, or using angled screws in either direction (plate to leg, or leg to plate) so that the screw threads have something to grab.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then choose the largest screws that still fit through the wheels of at least 2&quot; length (throw away the screws that came with the wheels - they aren't going to hold the load) and screw them into the 2x4x4 plate you just attached.  Depending on the size and location, you may want to pre-drill holes to avoid splitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, make sure your wheels are up to the expected loads.  You may buy four 100LB (45kg) rated wheels, and assume your table will never support more than 400LB (180kg) of load, but keep in mind that wheel ratings are meant for load directly down, and you'll be placing a lot of dynamic and side loads on the work surface.  Depending on your planing direction and the load on the table you could be placing well over 200LB loads on a single wheel.  Drop a 100lb object on the table near the corner and the sudden force will certainly exceed 100LB for the wheel underneath. Keep this in mind when choosing wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="235" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T12:34:28.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1247" CreationDate="2015-04-30T13:54:29.240" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two ways spring to mind immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way would be with a router, a core box bit, and a jig. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The jig would clamp onto the end of the cutting board and provide a surface for the router to ride on. This would give you a true reproduction of the effect in the photo above. (In my drawing, the curve is exaggerated for effect.) Mount two blocks on your router base to make sure it can't move side to side, and have at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qCKJ3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sweep&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A second way would be to just have a plunge router and a core box bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Set up a jig to make a platform large enough for the router to ride on, then start at one end, plunge, move to the other end, and lift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q0hsW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;straight plunge&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2015-04-30T16:07:43.980" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T16:07:43.980" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1256" CreationDate="2015-04-30T14:14:31.377" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess, is that using a clear finish should leave it pretty close to what you are looking for.  Pick one that has a good hard finish and put several coats on to make it thicker and stronger to reduce scratches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maple tends to yellow into a nice honey color especially in sunlight, so after sanding it down it might look more white than what you currently see.  Your choices are to get a finish with a light honey/yellow stain in it to put it back or just let nature takes it's course.  If you get the finish with a stain, each coat will make it darker, so you might also want a clear finish to use once it has reached your desired color (I probably wouldn't go more than 1 coat if you go the stain route).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also sand a place on the bottom of the table to do 'practice' tests on to get the look 'right'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the 'shiny' look you can pick different finishes, matte, satin, gloss, high gloss.  My first guess would be it is either gloss or high gloss currently on the table top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T14:14:31.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1256" CreationDate="2015-04-30T14:55:52.243" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The water stain on the desk looks like it could be blush in the lacquer itself rather than damage to the wood. Blushing is caused by moisture trapped in the finish. There are a number of ways to address it, but the goal is always to allow the moisture to escape. Some ideas I've read about in the past:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;mild abrasive:&lt;/strong&gt; Rubbing the affected area with toothpaste or other mild abrasive can remove just enough of the surface of the finish to allow trapped moisture to escape.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;heat:&lt;/strong&gt; Careful application of heat from a heat gun can drive out moisture.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;oil:&lt;/strong&gt; Rubbing with mineral oil or even (sounds crazy) mayonnaise is supposed to let oil seep in and displace trapped water. (I'd go with mineral oil over mayo.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;solvent:&lt;/strong&gt; Like the abrasive, the idea is to remove just enough of the surface to let the moisture out.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;more lacquer:&lt;/strong&gt; A fresh coat of lacquer will include some solvent, so probably works like the solvent option above.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for the desk I'd try some of the options above on a small area starting with the lowest impact (heat, mild abrasive).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's hard to see any real damage to the table in the photo, but it does look like the table has a clear finish rather than something with color. Lacquer finishes have a hard resin component dissolved in some solvent. They're easier to repair than finishes that cure (like epoxy or boiled linseed oil) because the solvent in the new layer partially dissolves the resin in the old layer, allowing the two layers to merge into one. To repair the table, I'd pick up a spray can of clear lacquer finish that has about the right sheen (matte, semigloss, etc.). Test on a hidden area first to make sure the new stuff is compatible with the old, of course. Spray the affected areas, let dry, and use steel wool or very fine sandpaper to adjust the sheen so that the repaired areas blend with the rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2015-04-30T15:23:01.180" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T15:23:01.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1261" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-30T16:09:24.347" Score="14" ViewCount="20146" Body="&lt;p&gt;An acquaintance was clearing some trees from his land, and I asked him to save a section of big leaf maple so I could mill it for an electric guitar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The piece ended up being roughly 9&quot; x 9&quot; x 36&quot;. I figured I'd let it dry then saw into boards. Now, about a year later (and after learning much more about woodworking), I realize I should have had it milled before drying. It has cracked some as it dried, but should still be usable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem now is I don't know how to go about milling it. It's bigger than I had asked for and I don't have the tools to break it down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Circular saw (7.5&quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My grandpa has a 10&quot; table saw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Handsaw (18-24&quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure I like either of those options. Seems like the blade could bind, and while the piece is too heavy to kick back on a table saw, it could burn up the motor, or toss the circular/break my wrist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I chalk this up to beginner's mistake and scrap the idea, or is there something I could still try (bandsaw, chainsaw, etc.)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; This question is different from &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/q/1144/49&quot;&gt;What is the process, from start to finish, for milling a tree into boards?&lt;/a&gt; in that this question is about milling a chunk of wood that is small enough not to require or justify the size of tool (e.g., bandsaw mill or chainsaw mill) which is usually used to mill large tree trunks. As @bowlturner pointed out in a comment, it also may be too small for some such mills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T06:24:55.203" Title="How do I cut a large log into boards?" Tags="|milling|making-lumber|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1261" CreationDate="2015-04-30T16:26:13.213" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;To make the first 'cut' I would split it in half.  I personally would use my wood maul and just split it.  I've had years of splitting wood for firewood and could do a pretty even split down the middle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what I would recommend would be to use a large mallet or a round ended maul and pound it into the wood to split it.  To make things a little easier you could take your skill saw and cut a line across the end, making several passes to get it to the max depth of the saw.  Then use the wood wedge to finish splitting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have the two halves, you should have an easier time cutting it into boards.  The table saw could square it up and probably do most of the work needed. Though a band saw would work better to make it into boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="107" LastEditDate="2015-04-30T16:38:27.557" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T16:38:27.557" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1261" CreationDate="2015-04-30T16:37:35.343" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm of the same mind as Matt- you'd need a large capacity band saw, a chain saw then a big band saw, a chainsaw mill, a portable mill, or.. any number of large, expensive tools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Were it me, I'd ask the folks at my local wood working stores (Rockler, Woodcraft, etc) If there's a mill they know that will take a random chunk of wood. If they don't know, ask them if there's a local wood working club- one of those guys will likely a) have a big band saw, or b) know someone who does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally you may find out that the center of it isn't as dry as the first few inches. So you may be milling it into rough sizes and waiting another 8-10 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T16:37:35.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1261" CreationDate="2015-04-30T16:43:55.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible to do quite a bit of milling with a bandsaw if you build the support tables and guides needed to handle a large hunk of wood. You might need a riser and longer blade to allow enough height for the log, depending on the size of the saw and how the it came configured. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="107" LastEditDate="2015-04-30T16:57:31.720" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T16:57:31.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1247" CreationDate="2015-04-30T17:51:43.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although you could find a way to form that handle with a router, I'd guess that whoever made that board used a shaper with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.grizzly.com/products/Shaper-Cutter-1-Flute-3-4-Bore/C2050&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a cutter like this&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kUcmn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T17:51:43.950" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1236" CreationDate="2015-04-30T18:11:45.517" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a stacked dado set, you can use one of the outside blades from that set with your jig. Stacked dado blades are flat ground so that they make flat-bottomed dados.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T18:11:45.517" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1268" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1269" CreationDate="2015-04-30T18:32:19.687" Score="7" ViewCount="929" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/1078/281&quot;&gt;LeeG's answer to How can I make my own dowels?&lt;/a&gt; he says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You make a jig to pass the piece through perpendicular to the blade and turn the piece to round the corners...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9AKxz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6e9F_1sGOXA&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does one go about doing this? I'd specifically like to make some 5/8&amp;quot; dowels from some old 3/4&amp;quot; diameter turning tool handles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="281" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T23:35:28.400" Title="How can I make a dowel with a table saw?" Tags="|technique|table-saw|dowel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1268" CreationDate="2015-04-30T18:56:01.627" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The hole in the pictured jig should have the same diameter as the diagonal measurement of the square stock that's to be made into a dowel. If you're feeding round stock through to make a smaller diameter dowel, just make the hole the same diameter as your stock. If you can't get the stock to turn easily, you may need a slightly larger hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The height difference between the table saw blade and the bottom of the jig hole will determine the final diameter of the dowel. Raising the blade will make it a thinner dowel, and lowering the blade will make it a thicker dowel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a formula, then your resulting dowel diameter will be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Dd = 2*(Hh - Hb)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Dd is the resulting dowel diameter&#xA;Hh is the height of the jig hole center&#xA;Hb is the height of the blade&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The source YouTube video shows the stock being chucked up in a drill and rotated as it's fed through the jig. For thicker stock, you may have to drive a 1/2&quot; bolt into the center on one end in order to fit it in a standard drill chuck, or possibly just turn it by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastEditorUserId="38" LastEditDate="2015-04-30T23:35:28.400" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T23:35:28.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1261" CreationDate="2015-04-30T20:04:57.797" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Building a bandsaw sled and using a bandsaw with 10&quot; or larger resaw capacity is the first power tool solution that comes to mind. Matthias Wandel has a nice &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodgears.ca/shop-tricks/bandsaw_sled.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; detailing how to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P4K5z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bandsaw sled&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you mentioned you only have access to a circular saw and table saw, the cheapest solution, aside from finding someone with more tools, would be to rip the block of wood into boards with a handsaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fp4W6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rip handsaw&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/24-Hand-Saw-7-TPI-Rip-Cut-Teeth-Germany/productinfo/521-0600/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-04-30T20:12:06.517" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T20:12:06.517" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1230" CreationDate="2015-05-01T04:31:53.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interlocking corner brace. I only found one company that uses it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="523" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T04:31:53.200" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1230" CreationDate="2015-05-01T12:37:44.080" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no official name for many more complex types of joints, and once you get to combining different types of joint techniques you can only really do your best to describe them succinctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a really great woodworking glossary website here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/_g_A.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/_g_A.htm&lt;/a&gt; which describes lots of types of joint, but even he gets to the point where he's calling things something like an &quot;angled keyed dovetail half lap joint&quot;. It is probably the most accurate way to describe the particular joint he's talking about (roughly half way down the page) but there's not a single person who, if asked to joint two pieces of timber using an angled keyed dovetail half lap joint, wouldn't ask you to explain with a drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Interlocking corner brace&quot;, &quot;finger jointed corner brace&quot;, &quot;box jointed angle brace&quot; and &quot;grooved corner brace&quot; all seem like reasonable names for the joint to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T12:37:44.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1273" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1275" CreationDate="2015-05-01T13:21:34.903" Score="10" ViewCount="26951" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an antique coffee table that I am planning to restore. It is elaborately carved, and appears to be made out of solid mahogany. The existing finish is in pretty good shape, except for the top of the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that the finish is a colored shellac and someone must have spilled rubbing alcohol on the table and then tried to wipe it up which resulted in raised areas in the finish and a couple of spots where the finish has been completely removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan is to use denatured alcohol to refresh the surface, and level out the spots where the finish was smeared. I think I may be able to repair the areas where the finish has been removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the finish has been repaired, I plan to apply a few thin coats of spray lacquer to the top to protect the surface from future damage. Would a lacquer finish be the wrong approach?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="479" LastActivityDate="2017-03-29T01:03:34.000" Title="Is it a good idea to apply lacquer over shellac?" Tags="|finishing|furniture|restoration|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1273" CreationDate="2015-05-01T13:35:50.180" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It certainly isn't a bad idea, depending on what you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to consider refreshing rather than completely stripping and refinishing. Since shellac dissolves into previous coats you can often sand carefully (watch out for the risk of sanding thru a veneer!), restain if necessary and recoat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Actually, traditional lacquer is also often repairable, for the same reasons -- but that involves worse fumes and longer drying time than with shellac, so it actually isn't uncommon to use shellac to seal spot repairs made to lacquer finishes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T17:01:23.660" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T17:01:23.660" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1273" CreationDate="2015-05-01T14:34:48.427" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, shellac is a great barrier coat and wash coat, lacquer works well over it. The flake mixed with DNA is better than the hardware store canned. That being said, the area could be spot repaired with a fad via french polish and shellac without lacquer. I am assuming if it is has a shellac finish it is a vintage piece so keeping with the original finish is always a plus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="494" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T14:34:48.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1276" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-01T20:44:49.447" Score="6" ViewCount="1364" Body="&lt;p&gt;After watching more videos about table saws I got excited and wanted to make a ZCI. When I looked at my saw the current insert gave &lt;em&gt;way&lt;/em&gt; too much room. I had lost some wood down there on one occasion and was worried about kickback. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took off the cheap flimsy plastic, that was starting to bow, only to find this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GoXHT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Blade housing&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Note: The &quot;tab&quot; on the right looks more recessed than it actually is&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The place where the potential ZCI would rest is between 1/8th - 3/16ths of an inch from the table (both tabs are not equal distances from the table). That would mean for a very thin piece of the board at those locations. That would likely snap when it got some pressure. Also the side of the gap facing the blade (that you cant see in this picture) tapers at a 45 degree angle. I could see sawdust or, if nothing else, debris getting in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the good ZCI's that I see are one unit and I don't see how I could do that with this setup. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I safely make a &lt;em&gt;wooden&lt;/em&gt; ZCI for this table saw? Would I need to mill one from metal to get the same effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T23:29:53.610" LastActivityDate="2017-03-27T12:59:22.530" Title="Am I able to make a wooden Zero Clearance Insert for my tablesaw?" Tags="|safety|table-saw|zero-clearance-insert|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1276" CreationDate="2015-05-01T21:16:42.757" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can make the bulk of the ZCI thicker for rigidity, then rabbet the edges and recess the other interference points to fit. If the existing throat plate was plastic and it was starting to bow, I wouldn't consider a wooden replacement any more dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better alternative to wood would be &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultra-high-molecular-weight_polyethylene&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;UHMW&lt;/a&gt; plastic; otherwise metal would also be rigid enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a metal throat plate it may not be necessary, but for other materials I would still suggest designing the throat plate to be thicker, if possible. From your picture, it appears the blade is well below the throat plate supports, but if there isn't much clearance it will be tricky to cut your zero-clearance slot on a thicker throat plate with rabbeted edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if you intend to make a metal throat plate, the process is different than that for making a wood, MDF, or plastic throat plate. You will need to use a non-ferrous metal as your material, and a carbide-tipped blade with a negative rake angle to cut it. If your saw has a flesh-detective active safety system similar to SawStop or REAXX, you'll need to temporarily disable it to cut metal. A typical zero-clearance metal throat plate itself is not zero-clearance but has replaceable plastic or MDF inserts held in place with a long groove or sliding dovetail, similar to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.infinitytools.com/SawStop-Zero-Clearance-Throat-Plate-With-Two-Inserts/productinfo/100-335/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Infinity Tools ZCI Throat Plate&lt;/a&gt;. If cutting the slot on a table saw, use a sled to cut all the way from the back of the throat plate to an inch or so past the furthest forward point that the blade would reach if it were fully raised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another solution is to forget messing with making an insert for the existing slot. Clamp a piece of plywood or MDF to the top of your saw and raise the blade--instant zero-clearance auxiliary top, similar to the one shown in &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/R6_O9AeQQHc?t=186&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How To Turn a Crappy Table Saw into a Good One&lt;/a&gt;. You'll lose some depth of cut capacity, but that may be an acceptable tradeoff. Remember to also extend the slot behind the blade so you can still use your riving knife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you can &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RGo3AUHzgk0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;replace the existing top entirely&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-05-04T18:00:32.533" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T18:00:32.533" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1276" CreationDate="2015-05-02T05:56:09.863" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can certainly make your own insert. I usually use 1/2&quot; MDF for these, and I make several at a time so that I don't have to stop and make another when the first needs replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The insert should fit in the saw with very little play. If you have an existing insert that fits well, use it as a template for your new one. Cut a blank that's slightly oversize, attach the existing insert to the blank with double-stick carpet tape (the thin stuff, not the foam tape), and use a pattern bit in your router to copy the insert's shape exactly. Mark the areas that need to be removed to make space for the blade and insert supports and use a router to quickly remove the extra material there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2015-05-02T05:56:09.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1273" CreationDate="2015-05-02T07:32:43.193" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would a lacquer finish be the wrong approach?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your basic idea here is sound; on furniture such as a coffee table that will be in regular use shellac is not a good final protective coat because of its poor water-resistance and of course its solubility in alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However lacquer may not be the best bet here for a couple of reasons. The main one is that your lacquer's solvent may be 'hotter' than alcohol and if so the shellac will be soluble in it, which can lead to crazing after application. This is not a &lt;em&gt;will happen&lt;/em&gt;, but some testing is advisable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other issue is brittleness. A quality polyurethane will add good water-resistance, improved resistance to scratching and slightly better resistance to knocks than lacquer because of its superior flexibility. So it is arguably a better choice for a day-to-day piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, in case it needs to be said: you should either mix your own shellac or buy a brand new can of premixed shellac. Shellac has a definite shelf life (despite manufacturer claims to the contrary!) once made up into liquid form; it is much better when used fresh, ideally within months of mixing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-05-02T07:32:43.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1174" CreationDate="2015-05-02T13:18:27.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Focusing more on the wood itself in that picture my first instinct for stability and ease of assembly was to use some hardwood flooring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since hardwood flooring is already tongue and groove it will make for a very strong door with minimal effort. The metal would then be used to keep the wood together aside from glue possibly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The couple of downsides would be the weight and that wood usually has a concave recess on the bottom of the boards. Fixing both of those should not be hard as you could plane or cut with the saw to make a nice flat surface. Something similar would need to be done about the outside tongue and groove, but again, good pass on the table saw will true that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you don't need much it is usually easy to come up with small amounts used. I have seen second hand sites offer that up regu&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-05-04T14:12:03.627" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T14:12:03.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1281" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1283" CreationDate="2015-05-02T14:16:41.260" Score="12" ViewCount="11720" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to pick up a new cabinet saw.  I have currently two table saws, a 10&quot; and an 8&quot;.  I use the 8&quot; with a Freud SBOX8 box-joint blade and pretty much use that saw exclusively for box joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if I pick up a 10&quot; cabinet saw, is it possible, given same size arbors, that I could run the 8&quot; blade in the 10&quot; saw or is there some danger I am not considering?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T12:52:39.580" Title="Can one safely mount an 8&quot; blade in a 10&quot; saw if the arbor sizes are compatible?" Tags="|safety|table-saw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1281" CreationDate="2015-05-02T16:05:34.100" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As RatchetFreak pointed out, you'd have to dismount the riving knife, which is a useful piece of safety equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if you're just talking about box joints, that's a short, well-supported cut without much risk of the blade being pinched. Be careful about the risk of kickback from the top/back of the blade, but i think you'd be ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it's common to run 8&quot; dado sets on 10&quot; saws, and those can't use riving knives either. Of course a dado buried in an aux fence has no blade-pinch risk... but i think it's fair to consider a box joint to be many narrow mid-panel dadoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-05-02T16:05:34.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1281" CreationDate="2015-05-03T05:38:43.657" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes you can.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as the hole in the blade is the same size as the arbor, you can mount any blade with a diameter smaller than the maximum your saw can use.*&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only real difference, besides maximum cutting depth, is that smaller blades are often thinner and have a narrower kerf. I was curious if this could make them unsafe to run at the same speed as a larger blade, but actually the opposite is true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/11wHm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Freud blade speed chart&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: Freud via &lt;a href=&quot;http://joneakes.com/jons-fixit-database/920-Saw-blade-safe-rotational-speeds&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://joneakes.com/jons-fixit-database/920-Saw-blade-safe-rotational-speeds&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smaller blades can run faster since their mass is closer to the axis of rotation (I think), so they can be made thinner. But, the RPM of a smaller blade will be the same as that of a larger blade, and in fact the cutting edge will be moving slower. In other words: the blade isn't in danger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to note is that an identical cut should probably be made slower with a smaller blade, since the cutting edge of the blade is moving slower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;More specifically to your situation:&lt;/strong&gt; The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.freudtools.com/admin/manuals/SBox-8.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;manual for the SBOX8&lt;/a&gt; doesn't even mention the table saw's maximum blade size, which leads me to believe it isn't an issue. Also the SBOX8 is probably heavier than a normal 10&quot; blade, so much of the general information above doesn't apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;* Although it must be larger than the arbor flange, and large enough to cut things!&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="281" LastEditorUserId="281" LastEditDate="2015-05-04T12:52:39.580" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T12:52:39.580" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1284" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1285" CreationDate="2015-05-03T05:48:49.637" Score="9" ViewCount="1416" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I understand it, a riving knife prevents kickback by keeping the workpiece from pinching or being pushed into the back of the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pinching the blade is unlikely to happen with non-through cuts, which all dado cuts are, but the workpiece could still theoretically be pushed askew and contact the back of the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would a riving knife with the same thickness as the kerf of the dado stack prevent this? Or are non-through cuts just not as dependent on a riving knife for safety?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="281" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T06:48:02.300" Title="Would a thick riving knife be useful with a dado stack?" Tags="|safety|table-saw|kickback|dado|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1284" CreationDate="2015-05-03T06:48:02.300" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the major danger that riving knives address is binding on the blade from the kerf closing. This is a particular risk with solid wood where there may be stored internal stresses (e.g. when the wood is said to be &lt;em&gt;case hardened&lt;/em&gt;) which are released when it is cut, where the wood can twist and actually close the kerf tight in the worst cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this is not a risk when doing dado cuts for the reason you specify — not a through-cut — I don't see that a kind of riving knife, sized to match the dado stack, would be of any benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a real danger from kickback here and that is inherent to doing a dado cut on the tablesaw in the first place. You might not be aware, it's impossible to do this in other parts of the world because there the saw designs don't permit a dado stack to be fitted, because of their inherent danger. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other methods for forming the dado should be always be preferred, e.g. by using a plunge router working within a template that is clamped firmly to the workpiece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T06:48:02.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1286" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-03T15:25:08.867" Score="11" ViewCount="5853" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have always liked how spline joints look, but I was unsure whether it would help or hurt the joint strength.  Are splined miter joints stronger than other types of mitered joinery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T15:33:37.633" Title="Are spline joints inherently stronger than a standard butt miter joint?" Tags="|joinery|durability|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1286" CreationDate="2015-05-03T15:58:15.400" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, they are stronger Splines increase the surface area being glued,; and thus the strength of the joint. And since miter is close to being end-grain to end-grain, it can definitely benefit from reinforcement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not necessary in things which aren't under much stress, like small boxes and picture frames, but as you say splines can also be a decorative element.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(For large picture frames, there's a cute variant of a lap joint which looks like a miter from the front and provides lots of long-grain contact. Not that I've tried it yet.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T15:58:15.400" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1276" CreationDate="2015-05-03T16:08:49.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another solution, for some cuts at least, is a crosscut sled; that can act as a moving near-zero-clearance plate. Here's a picture of one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2p8fr.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2p8fr.png&quot; alt=&quot;picture of crosscut sled&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="2264" LastEditDate="2017-03-27T02:43:35.620" LastActivityDate="2017-03-27T02:43:35.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1174" CreationDate="2015-05-03T16:11:11.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just a quick note: the hardware (track and rollers)  for this is available from some woodworking stores; they could tell you the manufacturer, who might have useful plans available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T16:11:11.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1290" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-03T23:13:32.070" Score="10" ViewCount="1844" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am referring to the broad category of SPF or &quot;Spruce/Pine/Fir&quot;. Although easy to come by and cheap, these seem to have more disadvantages. Bleeding sap for one and a large tenancy to all kinds of warping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does SPF, in general, have &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; redeeming qualities besides just being cheap wood in both sense of the term?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-06-19T01:20:32.597" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T01:20:32.597" Title="Does Pine have any advantages?" Tags="|wood-selection|wood|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1290" CreationDate="2015-05-04T00:33:24.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mostly, pine is fast-growing and hence inexpensive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And its relative softness is occasionally an advantage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it can have interesting grain, though staining it requires some tricks to avoid blotching; in that regard it may sometimes have an advantage over poplar, which is one of the fastest-growing of the hardwoods (and which in fact is generally a bit softer than pine). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-05-04T01:04:34.393" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T01:04:34.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1290" CreationDate="2015-05-04T02:31:34.013" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume you're probably more thinking of what is commonly labeled &quot;SPF,&quot; which stands for &quot;Spruce/Pine/Fir.&quot; Cheap wood used for dimensional lumber; however, pine is a pretty broad category. This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/pine-wood-an-overall-guide/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wood Database&lt;/a&gt; article handles it well, dividing into &quot;soft pine,&quot; and &quot;hard pine.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Soft Pine&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Is very soft with regular grain; it might be good for a beginning whittler/woodcarver to practice on. This category includes &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/softwoods/western-white-pine/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Western&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/softwoods/eastern-white-pine/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Eastern&lt;/a&gt; White Pine species.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hard Pine:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Can be categorized into two subgroups: Western Yellow and Southern Yellow.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Southern Yellow Pines&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Are moderately dense. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/softwoods/shortleaf-pine/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shortleaf Pine&lt;/a&gt;, for example, has a density similar to red oak. These have an irregular grain which may be good for turning? I would have to defer to someone with experience in the area to validate that notion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Western Yellow Pines&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Not as dense as the southern yellow pines, and a more regular grain. A characteristic species here would be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/softwoods/jack-pine/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Jack Pine&lt;/a&gt;, which is one of the species commonly labeled as &quot;SPF&quot; in dimensional lumber; this has the qualities you're probably thinking of when you think of pine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/softwoods/lodgepole-pine/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lodgepole pine&lt;/a&gt; has a very straight trunk and is good for log cabins. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/softwoods/ponderosa-pine/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ponderosa&lt;/a&gt; smells very nice when I'm hiking, like vanilla, though I'm not sure how useful that is to a woodworker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Uses&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I don't think you'll find very many redeeming qualities for the woods in general, but of note (aside from the cost) they are very soft, and because of this are easy to work with. This, combined with their cost, makes them great for beginners, and I like to use 2x4 lumber as test pieces before I make cuts on more expensive hardwood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pine is good for little projects that aren't expected to last long (unless well cared for: it's soft and easily dented/bruised), and aren't expected to be very pretty (unless you use good quality pine, not the construction grade SPF you'll find at a box store). Additionally, as Caleb mentioned, It has a good strength for its lower density and is thus useful in situations where you want a strong but light product (this, aside from the cost, is part of why it's common in construction).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="180" LastEditDate="2015-05-06T15:28:51.460" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T15:28:51.460" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1290" CreationDate="2015-05-04T04:38:04.143" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does SPF, in general, have any redeeming qualities besides just being cheap&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Weight.&lt;/strong&gt; Fast-growing woods like soft pine, fir, and spruce have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/weigt-wood-d_821.html&quot;&gt;densities&lt;/a&gt; between about 20 and 30 lbs/ft&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;. Hard woods like hard maple and oak are upward of 40 lbs/ft&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The combination of strength and light weight makes spruce the standard choice for certain applications. Sitka spruce is the go-to wood for use in aircraft. Spruce is also the wood used for the tops of stringed instruments like violins and cellos. We're obviously not talking about the SPF you'll find in your local home center, of course -- unlike the stuff they use for 2x4's, wood for instruments and airplanes is carefully selected. Nevertheless, the stuff at your home center has a similar combination of strength and weight, and these uses might inform your own decision to use SPF when you need something that's strong but light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Growth rate:&lt;/strong&gt; The SPF at your home center is cheap because it grows quickly, so there's plenty of it. If we built all our buildings out of slow-growing hardwoods we'd surely be out of forests (or have far fewer buildings). The price itself is an important factor, the fact that SPF woods are so quickly renewable is the thing that really makes them useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2015-05-04T13:30:52.287" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T13:30:52.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1294" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-04T13:43:24.733" Score="5" ViewCount="4085" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/218/community-project-lets-make-a-birdhouse&quot;&gt;a birdhouse&lt;/a&gt; and wanted to ensure that the two sloped sides of the box were the same height so the top flap would sit flat on both sides.  I grabbed a block plane to do this and had really horrible tear-out.  Thankfully,  I was able to rip the oops mostly off and finished the job with a sander, but I feel like this is something I &lt;strong&gt;should&lt;/strong&gt; be able to do with a block plane, but maybe my technique was wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to plane on an end grain that will eliminate tear-out, or is it a universally bad idea and one should go for the sanding pad instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-16T16:43:08.487" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T15:30:58.617" Title="How do I avoid tearout when planing end-grain?" Tags="|plane|end-grain|hand-planing|community-project|tolerance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-05-04T15:15:17.073" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1295" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-05-04T13:45:38.427" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="34" LastEditorUserId="34" LastEditDate="2015-05-04T13:45:38.427" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T13:45:38.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1296" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-05-04T13:45:38.427" Score="0" Body="The family of measurements that encompass whether a piece is square, plumb, proud or shy, even or straight.  Essentially, is the finished product an accurate production based on the planned project." OwnerUserId="34" LastEditorUserId="34" LastEditDate="2015-05-04T13:45:38.427" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T13:45:38.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1294" CreationDate="2015-05-04T14:01:58.843" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everything I've read says you need to clamp a waste block on the end of your board to prevent the tear out.  It is even recommended to do this if you are using a router or jointer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By keeping the pressure on with a waste block it won't be able to splinter down the board.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kb47F.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fine-tools.com/G307910.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course the other option would be to plane toward the center from both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T14:01:58.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1294" CreationDate="2015-05-04T14:07:24.817" Score="5" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;plane inwards from edges.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;chamfer the far edge and angle the plane.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;support the edge with sacrificial wood.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use a shooting board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="158" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-05-04T14:30:33.780" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T14:30:33.780" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1286" CreationDate="2015-05-04T15:33:37.633" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not certain which joint you're referring to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K8XXi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Reinforced mitre joints&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But regardless of whether you mean a true splined mitre or a keyed mitre the reinforcement does add to the joint strength. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both increase joint strength due to three factors: structural advantage, the thickness of the wood slivers used and the glue surface area. When considering splines or keys of conventional size — roughly as in the illustration above — the splined joint is superior in all regards (being both physically stronger and providing greater surface area). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be mentioned, there are numerous other ways to reinforce a mitre joint, from nails driven across the joint at the most basic, through to dowelling (both hidden and shown) all the way to a few variations of blind dovetails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T15:33:37.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1290" CreationDate="2015-05-04T15:49:36.597" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does SPF, in general, have any redeeming qualities besides just being cheap wood in both sense of the term?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Low cost is one of the main advantages of pine and other softwoods but it's best considered not in isolation, rather in concert with its physical properties. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;a large tenancy to all kinds of warping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is more about the quality of the wood available from certain vendors than inherent to the species themselves. The usual rule applies: careful stock selection is the first step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So assuming good raw material to start with, it is strong enough and resilient enough for many jobs that some modern woodworkers don't consider it suitable for. But looking at historical pieces made in pine and spruce is informative, showing just how suitable the wood can be in furniture applications. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bearing in mind the weight, densities and strengths of various hardwoods in comparison, in order to have equal strength pieces made in softwood species must by necessity use thicker material which can of course be a disadvantage. But that can be turned on its head: if what is desired is a thicker, chunkier piece you can specifically make it from softwoods in order that the finished item is not excessively heavy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T15:49:36.597" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1301" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1302" CreationDate="2015-05-04T22:10:45.143" Score="12" ViewCount="4689" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was watching a video demonstrating a technique of putting a nail through two pieces of wood, bending the nail back on itself against a metal plate and hammering it in, so that the end result was sort of like a staple. What is that technique called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="428" LastActivityDate="2022-04-24T21:56:41.640" Title="What is the technique of turning a nail back on itself called?" Tags="|nails|nailing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1301" CreationDate="2015-05-04T22:22:47.720" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bobvila.com/articles/1202-nailing-techniques/#.VUfwRPlVhBc&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;clinching&lt;/a&gt;. The technique is pretty simple, yet hold fairly well to prevent separation from the two boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a good example of how to do it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K1phX.gif&quot; alt=&quot;clinch nailing&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://collections.infocollections.org/ukedu/en/d/Jgtz061be/4.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The example calls for a small bar to be used to bend a short length of the nail. This can also be accomplished by just using a hammer to angle the nail. Any deformation of the wood will be hidden by the nail itself when it is driven back into the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Detailed Steps&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hammer a nail most of the way through both boards. You want enough of the pointed end of the nail so that you can fold it over. Using a small piece of metal to help shape the nail, hit the pointed end of the nail causing it to bend in the direction you want. You don't need to be absolute on the angle, approximately 90 degrees will do. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove the piece of metal from the workpiece. Drive the nail completely through the two pieces of wood. You may have to set the workpiece on something to give you clearance for the remainder of the nail. Strike the nail between the folded over section and the workpiece, closer to the folded over section. This will cause the nail to bend as in step 2. &lt;strong&gt;You should drive the nail either in the direction of the grain or across it.&lt;/strong&gt; Different people have different attitudes about why you should drive in either direction. For me, it boils down to do I want the nail raised above the surface of the wood or not. If I do, then I drive the nail across the grain.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Drive the bent end of the nail into the workpiece.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Alternative methods&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of using a hammer to bend the nail, you can use pliers or a vice. With thicker diameter nails, using an alternative method becomes problematic. One video I have seen recommended using a metal plate to turn the nails as you drive them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="107" LastEditorUserId="107" LastEditDate="2015-05-05T03:51:57.550" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T03:51:57.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1301" CreationDate="2015-05-04T22:23:01.467" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clinching or clenching. I've always used the former word.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/joinery/video-tip-clenching-a-nail-with-confidence&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/joinery/video-tip-clenching-a-nail-with-confidence&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="81" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T22:23:01.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1304" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1305" CreationDate="2015-05-05T02:23:34.210" Score="10" ViewCount="2868" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a complete beginner to turning, I have a set of tools arriving in a week or so, and want to make sure I'm not going to make a mistake and injure myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are basic safety precautions when using a lathe to turn bowls and spindles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-05-05T20:01:55.543" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T11:39:57.507" Title="What do I need to know for basic lathe safety?" Tags="|safety|turning|lathe|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1304" CreationDate="2015-05-05T08:57:34.823" Score="12" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wear safely glasses or a full-face mask every time you turn, no exceptions.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dust mask or respirator advisable normally but essential when sanding.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tie long hair back.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No long sleeves.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take off rings, bangles, bracelets or a wristwatch.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consider whether it would be safer to remove any necklace, crucifix or medallion worn around the neck.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remember to remove chuck keys or any other tools used to tighten any parts before turning on (hang them or use a magnetic holder near the on-off switch so you can't forget).  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check clearance of stock from the tool rest by rotating the workpiece by hand before turning the motor on.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start at low speed.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn off lathe if making adjustments.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check your turning tools are sharp before using.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to have two hands on the turning tools at all times (not always possible but good general practice).  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove tool rest before sanding.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If doing groove burning never hold wire, cord or string in the fingers. Always wrap around scrap wood handles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Last but not least:&lt;/strong&gt; do not do any turning when tired, sleepy, emotionally upset or after imbibing alcohol or taking any medication that may make you drowsy or forgetful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2015-05-05T12:53:24.677" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T12:53:24.677" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1304" CreationDate="2015-05-05T13:02:44.720" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just adding to Graphus's excellent answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The piece of wood is the dangerous part.  It is moving up to 4000 rpm depending on settings and lathe.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you will want to take small cuts, being too aggressive is dangerous, especially for  a new turner.  Being too aggressive can either stop the wood, (which isn't good for the lathe) or try and yank the turning tool out of your hand, which is very dangerous to the turner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Securing your turning piece well is very important, I have had a couple pieces fly off the lathe, after the first one bounced off my chest (it hurt) I learned to stand off-center to the rotation of bowls.  If your lathe has a safety cage, I would recommend using it (generally on larger lathes because you can have larger pieces mounted).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also have a good solid stance that will let you move back and forth without losing your balance, you don't want to fall into your piece.  I would also recommend a nice thick floor mat to stand on to save your lower back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T13:02:44.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1304" CreationDate="2015-05-05T15:38:02.753" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add to the previous points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just as taking light cuts is wise, reducing lathe speed is wise until confidence is gained with a given tool. Catches are much less severe with lighter cuts and slower speeds. A very good acronym for lathe tool handling:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ABC’S OF WOODTURNING&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A is for anchor-put the tool on the tool rest&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B is for bevel- rest the bevel of the tool on the work piece&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C is for cut- bring the cutting edge into position&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T15:38:02.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1308" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-05T17:03:15.380" Score="9" ViewCount="414" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many people don't use the blade guards on their saws. Sometimes the reasoning is not very good, such as, &quot;it blocks my view.&quot; But there are many very legitimate reasons to remove the blade guard. What types of cuts are difficult, impossible, or simply impractical to make with the blade guard installed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T17:35:52.187" Title="When is it not possible or not practical to use a blade guard?" Tags="|safety|table-saw|power-tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1308" CreationDate="2015-05-05T17:03:15.380" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several occasions when you would want to remove the blade guard. Note that in most cases, you should still use your riving knife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Non-through cuts, such as dadoes, rabbets, tenons, and other joinery tasks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When using a crosscut sled (most crosscut sled designs have the left and right sides of the sled connected at the front and back of the sled)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sometimes when using certain types of jigs or accessories such as the GRR-Ripper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Narrow workpieces (e.g., when the blade guard prevents you from moving the fence close enough to the blade)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raised panels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also a few reasons to remove the blade guard which are arguably less legitimate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can't see the cut (usually you shouldn't need to see the cut line after you've set up the cut)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too much dust accumulates on the table if the blade guard is installed (many blade guards now actually have dust ports)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that an overhead- or side-mounted blade guard can solve some of the problems associated with a more typical arbor-mounted blade guard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OzYxV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Delta Uniguard side-mounted blade guard&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0000223C8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-05-05T17:35:52.187" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T17:35:52.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1310" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1311" CreationDate="2015-05-05T17:23:58.767" Score="10" ViewCount="4003" Body="&lt;p&gt;Similar to &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/q/1308/49&quot;&gt;When is it not possible or not practical to use a blade guard?&lt;/a&gt;, what types of cuts require the riving knife (and blade guard) to be removed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T12:19:12.437" Title="What types of table saw cuts cannot be made with a riving knife installed?" Tags="|safety|table-saw|power-tools|riving-knife|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1310" CreationDate="2015-05-05T17:23:58.767" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although there are many instances in which you need to remove a standard or modular table saw blade guard, most cuts can be made with a riving knife installed. However, there are a few operations for which you must (or should) remove the riving knife:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raising the blade through a workpiece (e.g., when cutting the slot for a crosscut sled or zero-clearance insert)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using a dado stack (the riving knife does not perform its duty and, in fact, will probably block your workpiece; for example, if installing an 8&quot; or 6&quot; dado stack along with a riving knife intended for a 10&quot; blade)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cutting coves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also keep in mind that your riving knife must be approximately the same thickness as your blade. If you use a standard-kerf riving knife with a thin-kerf blade, your workpiece may be blocked by the riving knife or may pinch it, or may be pinched between the riving knife and fence. Conversely, if you use a thin-kerf riving knife with a standard-kerf blade, your riving knife will not be as effective at preventing kickback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-05-05T23:59:39.403" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T23:59:39.403" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1312" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1313" CreationDate="2015-05-05T19:36:53.867" Score="11" ViewCount="7009" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking at the directions that came with my 1/2&quot; shank 3/4&quot; tongue and groove router bit, and noticed that it recommended it be mounted on a router table for improved safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which got me thinking, is there a general cutoff for when a router bit is too big to use in a handheld router? I figure bit diameter and profile both figure in, with the diameter playing the largest part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastActivityDate="2021-08-11T11:44:25.020" Title="When do I need to use a router table instead of a handheld router?" Tags="|safety|router|router-bit|router-table|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1312" CreationDate="2015-05-05T19:49:34.963" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would guess it is more profile and how much wood you both expect to remove and how much surface area you have in contact with the wood.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shank size is only the first indication.  I haven't seen any 1/4&quot; bits that 'Need' to be mounted in a router table.  However that doesn't mean that you can't benefit from doing so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The larger shank bits allow for a larger torque to be placed on them and to be used in larger machines.  They also will tend to have less vibration movement for a cleaner cut (At least that is what I have read).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it is easy to use my Shaper (like a mounted table router but slower and more powerful) I will.  Bits that cut the 'tongue' in tongue and groove, raised panel bits, shapers for moldings and such should really be mounted in a table for best results and safest practices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But just because it's a 1/2&quot; shank doesn't mean you have to use it that way.  If it is a 3/4&quot; straight bit on a 1/2&quot; shank it will be just as safe as a 1/4&quot; shank, and will likely have a cleaner cut.  I would like to replace all my bits with 1/2&quot; shank bits (at least the ones that I can) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T19:49:34.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1312" CreationDate="2015-05-05T20:12:09.830" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use the router table if the piece is too small to have the router base firm against the work piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the router freehand if the piece is too large to safely move across the router table.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If using the router freehand, plan on using some sort of jig or fixture to direct the router.  A guide bearing on the bit works as a sort of jig.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, if you don't feel you can completely control the router, build a jig or a fixture to contain it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T20:12:09.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1315" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1318" CreationDate="2015-05-05T22:41:11.590" Score="15" ViewCount="2095" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/1298/180&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; answer regarding preventing tearout when planing end-grain suggests using a shooting board. What is it, and how does it prevent tearout?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T13:25:20.803" Title="What is a shooting board?" Tags="|terminology|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1312" CreationDate="2015-05-05T23:44:32.477" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Larger bits will generally recommend that they be used in a router table or with a speed control or both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That bit is spinning &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; fast. Even with a small-radius bit it's moving past the wood at a pretty good clip. Increase the radius, and the linear speed at which the bit hits the wood also increases by the same ratio. If a large bit takes too deep a cut and kicks, it will kick &lt;em&gt;hard&lt;/em&gt;. In that situation you want the wood to go flying, not the router with its still-spinning bit... so it's safer to anchor the router in place and bring the wood to it than the reverse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other advantages to working with a router table that make it a worthwhile investment; it makes some tasks much easier than freehand routing. Think of it as a basic adjustable jig for the tool. Like an edge guide but more so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Reminds me that I need to put an edge guide on my want list.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2021-08-11T11:44:25.020" LastActivityDate="2021-08-11T11:44:25.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1315" CreationDate="2015-05-06T00:09:46.740" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A shooting board combines two primitive fences attached to a board.  One fence is used to hold the work piece while the second fence is used to guide a plane so as to shave the edge of the work piece parallel to the second fence.  See this website:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://norsewoodsmith.com/content/shooting-boards-evenfall-woodworks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://norsewoodsmith.com/content/shooting-boards-evenfall-woodworks&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="309" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T00:09:46.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1315" CreationDate="2015-05-06T04:14:04.153" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Shooting board&quot; refers to a family of jigs that are used for squaring the butts or end-grain of boards with hand planes. They are also used for joinery by planing multiple boards at once in an effort to match joint angles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic premise is the same on most of the jigs: two flat boards, one on top of another. The wider of the two boards is placed on the bottom creating a fence for the hand plane to follow. On top of the boards is where you would create stops to prevent the piece you are planing from moving. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hand plane typically will move at a right angle along the fence. Simple shooting boards cut at 90 degree angles but the stops or other fences can be positioned to allow other angles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ypXLf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Basic Shooting Board&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image comes from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Setting%20Up%20and%20Using%20a%20Shooting%20Board4.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;InTheWoodShop&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The picture above shows the fence that the hand plane would follow. The top piece of wood is the stop where the wood piece is located. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Variations of that design will allow for different results. As mentioned earlier, it could be used in joinery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/79biz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Double Mitre Shooting Board&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Image comes from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Setting%20Up%20and%20Using%20a%20Shooting%20Board4.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;InTheWoodShop&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the above Double Mitre Shooting Board you see that the basic design is still there: a fence for the plane, and stops. Planing two pieces at once, when properly mounted, will give both ends perfect angles. This particular jig could be used for framing and cabinetry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Preventing Tear-out&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not personally used a shooting board but at first glance it does not seem designed to prevent tear-out. That first impression was in error of course. When used &lt;em&gt;properly&lt;/em&gt; the shooting board will shave a small controlled portion with each pass. Also, the fence is designed so that the plane will follow along at a 90 degree angle. Normally freehand planing could allow for &lt;em&gt;slight&lt;/em&gt; changes in angles based on pressure and your work piece - the theory being that the controlled movement stops tear-out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More importantly: As long as your plane is sharp and not protruding too far, the pass on the shooting board will slice and not push the wood. This should prevent tear-out as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Aside&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are having issues visualizing how this works, without constantly damaging the fences, this picture gives some context and detail that cannot be seen from general pictures of shooting boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Setting%20Up%20and%20Using%20a%20Shooting%20Board4_html_4d3485e8.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Close up of Shooting Board&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Image comes from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Setting%20Up%20and%20Using%20a%20Shooting%20Board4.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;InTheWoodShop&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more reading I recommend &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Setting%20Up%20and%20Using%20a%20Shooting%20Board4.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;InTheWoodShop&lt;/a&gt; which has some details on making your first shooting board (And from which I found some good pictures). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:50.160" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T13:25:20.803" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1319" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-06T14:52:05.650" Score="10" ViewCount="13984" Body="&lt;p&gt;This might be a silly question, but how do I accurately measure, mark and cut a board perfectly in half on a miter saw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that if I want to cut a board of a specific length, I would mark that length, and then align the blade right on the other side of the line, so that the cut piece is exactly measured distance.  But say I have a 8' board, and I want it in half (roughly 4' each, minus the kerf), how do I quickly measure/cut this? Ideally the result would have no waste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I just align the blade with the line and cut directly on it, or do I need to measure the blade kerf and account for this somehow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize a table saw would help make this more accurate and repeatable, but right now I'm limited to a miter saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastEditorUserId="11" LastEditDate="2015-05-08T02:07:33.017" LastActivityDate="2017-10-12T15:51:49.060" Title="How do I accurately cut a board exactly in half?" Tags="|miter-saw|tolerance|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1319" CreationDate="2015-05-06T15:06:53.220" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've hit on both options.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You measure the board to it's exact dimensions, (I have yet to see them exactly 8') then you mark the center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point you can either attempt to cut the board centering the line with the miter or you measure the kerf, (usually 1/8&quot;) split that in half (1/16&quot;) make your line there and follow the new line for the miter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is it will be about 1/8&quot; - 1/4&quot; longer than 8' so the kerf will make it closer to 4' even.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T15:06:53.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1321" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1327" CreationDate="2015-05-06T15:33:41.793" Score="17" ViewCount="7048" Body="&lt;p&gt;Comments in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1315/what-is-a-shooting-board&quot;&gt;What is a shooting board?&lt;/a&gt; have taken me further down the rabbit hole. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is a bench hook and how is it used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T07:48:08.017" Title="What's a bench hook?" Tags="|terminology|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1319" CreationDate="2015-05-06T15:38:10.853" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use the old geometry trick of bisecting a line:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mathopenref.com/constbisectline.html&quot;&gt;http://www.mathopenref.com/constbisectline.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would require more space of course and something you could use as a larger compass, which could be nothing more than two 2x4's fitted perpendicularly with a pencil taped to the end of one of them and a nail sticking out of the other for a &quot;compass&quot; point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe not practical, but fun.  :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="541" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T15:38:10.853" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1319" CreationDate="2015-05-06T15:51:43.677" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically if you need two or more equal-length parts from a single board, you'll select a board longer than what you need to cut all the parts, cut the board as close to &quot;in half&quot; as you care to, then gang all the pieces together or set up a stop block to cut them to the final equal length. Sometimes you may not cut to final length until after you've performed some other operations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't necessarily need to find out the exact length of a board to find the exact middle. Note that you can get close measurements by marking with a sharp pencil, but if you need &lt;em&gt;exact&lt;/em&gt; measurements you should use a knife to mark your lines instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take a tape measure and place the hook close to the edge of one face on the board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extend the tape measure all the way to the other end. If it does not fall on an exact measurement that's easy to divide by 2, slide the tape measure sideways (so it slants across the face of the board) until the scale does hit the end of the board at a measurement that's easy to divide by 2.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Divide the measurement by 2, find the resulting measurement on the scale, and mark it as the middle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure the width of your blade's tooth and divide it by 2 (i.e., multiply the denominator of the fractional measurement by 2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure the &quot;half-kerf&quot; distance to the left side of the first (center) mark. (If you measure to the right side, swap the words &quot;left&quot; and &quot;right&quot; in the following instructions.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your second mark was to the left of the first mark, draw an X to the right side of your second mark to designate the right side as the &quot;offcut.&quot; (Conversely, if your second mark was to the right of the first mark draw an X to the left side of your second mark.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Position the board on your saw so the left side of the nearest tooth exactly lines up with your second mark. (If you used a pencil instead of a knife to make the mark, try to account for the width of the pencil line.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clamp your workpiece in place, double-check everything is still lined up (and readjust if necessary), then make the cut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T15:51:43.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1321" CreationDate="2015-05-06T16:29:08.703" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BQuxI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bench Hook&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a bench hook!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A very simple and handy device, it gives you a nice solid fence which you can push a piece of wood (or metal, or whatever) against, holding it steady and allowing you to saw it easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T16:29:08.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1325" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1328" CreationDate="2015-05-06T17:49:45.003" Score="6" ViewCount="2324" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what this type of screw is called in the UK?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OO7Au.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OO7Au.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Screw&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask because I have some flat pack furniture that has been sitting in the attic for ages, and now I try to assemble it I find some of the screws are missing. Unless I can buy some more screws like the one pictured I'm going to have fun trying to assemble the furniture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The screw has a 4mm hex socket in the end. I'd guess they're targeted at us amateur flat pack assemblers rather than the professional woodworkers. But as I don't know what this type of screw is called I don't even know where to start Googling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Later:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks to everyone who answered. Several people suggested this is a custom made screw and I suspect they are correct. The paperwork with the furniture (a bed) is missing, but I think it is &lt;a href=&quot;https://birlea.com/products/beds/standard-beds/rio-bed/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this bed made by Birlea&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With clues from all the answers I've found several similar screws - they all have sharp points but I don't think that matters as I suspect the tips have been removed just to stop amateurs like me impaling themselves. The closest seems to be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.screwfix.com/p/spax-wirox-screws-6-x-100mm-pk100/84305&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these screws from Spax&lt;/a&gt;, though they are startlingly expensive! Searching for &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=timber%20construction%20screws&amp;amp;tbm=isch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;timber construction screws&lt;/a&gt;, lag screws and coach screws returns an array of likely looking hits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="544" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2023-10-05T16:45:12.050" LastActivityDate="2023-10-05T16:45:12.050" Title="What is this type of screw from a piece of flat-pack furniture called?" Tags="|screws|terminology|hardware-identification|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1325" CreationDate="2015-05-06T18:02:51.487" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To me it looks like a type of joint connector screw or connector bolt. Sometimes the various types of screws for knock-down furniture are also called furniture screws or furniture bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes when I don't know what something is called, I take it to the local hardware store and try to find something that looks the same. Often they don't have the right size but sometimes they have something similar enough that I know what term to use when trying to find them elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-05-06T19:10:48.033" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T19:10:48.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1321" CreationDate="2015-05-06T18:35:42.450" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bench hook is quite simply the most useful simple woodworking jig/appliance that the handtool user can make. As Chris Schwarz says about them, &lt;em&gt;&quot;After working with one for a couple weeks, you will wonder how you ever got by without it.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to its main purpose as a sawing aid a bench hook can function as a basic shooting board, the large surface can be used for chopping with a chisel (why they're sometimes also called chopping hooks) and the bar can also be used as a backstop for planing, so in essence larger bench hooks can convert any suitable flat surface into a temporary woodworking area, with sawing, planing and chopping functionality. Which is a neat trick for just three pieces of wood glued together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many minor variations in design for bench hooks as you'd expect for an accessory like this which is so commonly handmade by the woodworker. The one in the photo in the response by WhatEvil is actually more suited to a left-hander, a right-hander's would more commonly have the stop offset to the left like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QyChi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chris Schwarz bench hook&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some have a stop that spans the whole width, which can be low-profile to allow planing of thinner stock:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pHip1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Low-profile bench hook&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And with a minor modification a bench hook can function as a mitre block as well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4jIzp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mitre-block bench hook&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2015-05-07T07:48:08.017" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T07:48:08.017" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1325" CreationDate="2015-05-06T18:48:43.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To me it looks like a &quot;Lag Screw&quot; with the tip cut off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some that appear to be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PACK-OF-5-M6-x-100mm-FURNITURE-BOLT-BARREL-NUT-FOR-THE-ASSEMBLY-OF-COTS-BEDS-/220851407196&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;closer&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/57uSy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And even &lt;a href=&quot;http://unico.uk.com/kd-furniture-fittings/bolts/UKD001562520/allen-head-bolt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;closer&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MDzQb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.ebayimg.com/images/i/310929762574-0-1/s-l1000.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter link description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just searched for '&lt;strong&gt;Flat Pack Bolts&lt;/strong&gt;'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:50.180" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T19:01:00.177" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1329" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1332" CreationDate="2015-05-06T19:44:18.110" Score="8" ViewCount="29100" Body="&lt;p&gt;(posted this on diy.stackexchange but it was suggested I try here)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an old staircase with winders, so if I want 32 inches between handrail and nose of stairs, I'm going to have to cut some angles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the overall run of the handrails is going to be about 180 inches, and I'm cutting a 17 degree miter about 40 inches from the top, how would you securely join the two pieces?  Options I've considered:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wood glue and finishing nails.  I've done this for the returns, but one doesn't expect a lot of load on the returns, right?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;some kind of rail bolt, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/p/Stair-Parts-5-8-in-x-3-in-Spring-Bolt-Rail-to-Rail-Joinery-Kit-9400K-SBK-HD00R/202088525&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dowels, though I'm nervous about getting close alignment on a mitered join.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a picture of what I'd like the finished handrail to look like. the joint in question is towards the end where the walls meet:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gubOJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mitered handrail for a winding staircase&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="545" LastEditorUserId="545" LastEditDate="2015-05-06T19:53:06.263" LastActivityDate="2021-11-22T20:33:02.543" Title="How can I join two mitred handrails?" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1329" CreationDate="2015-05-06T19:56:53.433" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is how I would likely try to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take two pieces and clamp them together how you will want them to be aligned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the bottom of the rail I would make a groove (or two) Possibly with a router and straight bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;make a spline, preferably out of the same material as the hand rail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;glue them all together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will act similar to your dowels but will be easier to align them correctly.  It will give plenty of surface area for glue surface.  You can even make the splines curved if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They could also be turned into a design feature, but making the 'grooves' to/on the top and use a different colored wood.  Anytime when gluing if you can use a piece to cross the others you can make the joint stronger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternate would be to have a wider 'spline' on the bottom that you can use screws to reinforce the glue (actually if you use screws in this case likely that would be enough).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-05-06T20:02:05.540" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T20:02:05.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1325" CreationDate="2015-05-06T20:25:26.430" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The coarse thread of the screw in your photo looks meant for use with particle board or soft woods, much like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/confirmat-screws-select-size&quot;&gt;confirmat screws&lt;/a&gt;. Screws with a blunt point like the one in your photo are known as &quot;type b self tapping&quot; screws. You use them with predrilled holes, and the thread on the screw cuts threads into the material. But I don't think I've ever seen that type of point on a screw with a socket head -- your example looks like the offspring of a confirmat screw and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/connector-bolts-black-oxide-connector-bolts&quot;&gt;connector bolt&lt;/a&gt;, and I suspect it's custom hardware made for a large manufacturer like IKEA rather than a standard part. Your best bet would be to order additional screws from the manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T20:25:26.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1329" CreationDate="2015-05-06T21:14:29.787" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could also use a rail bolt to join the two pieces by inserting it in a T-slot under one side of the rail, or by drilling two perpendicular holes, and filling the exposed hole with a plug if it would be too visible to have an exposed T-slot.  Rail bolts are simple, strong, and can be tightened as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RGIXz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rail bolt&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/1000/c7/c713c5d2-5482-4cf3-80ae-6bd8551bdd64_1000.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;HomeDepot&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="271" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-05-07T03:21:13.123" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T03:21:13.123" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1319" CreationDate="2015-05-06T22:53:30.197" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The quickest way to measure is not to measure at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The board is a rectangle, therefore opposing sides of it are parallel to each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now say you lay your measuring tape across the board like so&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cm2LM.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;wherever the middle of the tape is, it will also be the middle of the board (or half of the board width) You can place the tape however you want. You are basically measuring from one edge to the other at an angle. Now angle the tape in a way that is shows a value that's easy to divide by 2, but longer than the board width, say 10 for example. You can now mark the middle of the tape at 5 and can be sure that this is the middle 0f the board, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do this two times, you have two points that connect to a line, that is exactly in the middle of the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The interesting thing is that this holds true for any fraction and does the math geometrically, which always works, no matter how ugly the numbers are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say your 8 is a rough cut and is actually something like 8.345 (I made that number up, the unit doesn't even matter)&#xA;And you want to divide that evenly by 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok 8.345 / 3 = ?? phew, not that easy. You could use a calculator...or do what I stated above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Place the 0 of the tape at one edge of the board and angle it so that 9 is right at the other edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To divide the board in thirds, mark 3 and 6. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;By choosing a total tape length from edge to edge of the board that you can conveniently divide into the desired fraction, the geometry will do the math for you and probably be done with it a lot quicker.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="443" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T22:53:30.197" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1319" CreationDate="2015-05-07T01:16:36.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is simple. Know the width of your blade's cut. Your average circular saw with carbide teeth will leave about a 1 eighth groove. Other blades may be thinner or thicker. Make your measurements accordingly. In short, do the math. &#xA;(I feel my reply should have been made with a deep Bangor brawl and a corn cob pipe)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="549" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T01:16:36.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1319" CreationDate="2015-05-07T02:04:49.293" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming a consistent weight, balance the board on a thin edge (like a knife blade).  The point at which the board is balanced is, by definition, the center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mark and cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="550" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T02:04:49.293" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1338" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1339" CreationDate="2015-05-07T02:23:45.347" Score="15" ViewCount="25451" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lets say, for argument sake, that I have 2 or 3 10&quot; blades for my table saw. That would give me just under 3/8 inches, when all mounted together, which I could use to make dadoes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With what I have available this would be easier than constantly stopping my saw to adjust my fence to enlarge my dadoes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could easily see this being a bad idea since the blade kerfs &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; touch while the saw is operating. Also sawdust might get stuck between the blades. Has anyone tried this before?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-05-07T02:51:29.910" LastActivityDate="2024-01-05T20:03:37.353" Title="Can I make a dado blade set out of multiple regular blades?" Tags="|safety|table-saw|dado|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1338" CreationDate="2015-05-07T02:34:17.377" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's another factor you're not considering: torque requirements. There's a reason the majority of dado sets are 6&quot; or 8&quot; in diameter. Most table saws won't have the power to run a 10&quot; set. A 10&quot; set will require 25% more torque than an 8&quot; set, and 67% more torque than a 6&quot; set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not surprisingly, Matthias over at Woodgears has written an &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodgears.ca/shop-tricks/dado.html&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; about doing more or less the same thing you're proposing. Except he solves the torque problem by using multiple 7-1/4&quot; blades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastEditorUserId="38" LastEditDate="2015-05-07T02:40:16.423" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T02:40:16.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1338" CreationDate="2015-05-07T08:11:15.620" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of making a dado blade you can instead use a sled and then move the workpiece side to side on that to enlarge the dado. Make the outer cuts first and then you have a reference for where the blade should go; the middle cuts aren't that important to get accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or set the fence for the left most cut and clamp a piece of wood the with the same thickness of as the width of the desired dado minus the kerf of the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You make the cut and then remove the block on the fence and cut again. then between those positions you can cut repeatedly and clean up with a chisel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T08:11:15.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1342" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1343" CreationDate="2015-05-07T15:54:51.043" Score="9" ViewCount="2569" Body="&lt;p&gt;Someone once told me that I should drain the pressure out of my air compressor once I am done using the tools.  Does one really need to do this?  Someone once mentioned it had something to do with condensation in the tank, but I'd really like to know canonically what the safe/proper procedure should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T16:16:05.803" Title="Should I drain my air compressor after every use?" Tags="|safety|tool-maintenance|air-tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1342" CreationDate="2015-05-07T16:08:54.683" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a good idea to drain the air compressor periodically.  Part depends on how much you use it.  My grandfathers tank hadn't been drained for years (I think after he quite using it but everyone else still did) and it had 20 gallons of water in it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big problem is the water rusts the tank from the inside and on top of that if you have a lot of water (quarts/gallons) in the winter time it can freeze and possibly damage the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How fast it accumulates depends on how humid it is where and when you use it and how much it is used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my little tank (10 gal.), it only takes a minute or two to open the pitcock on the bottom and let out the water.  I generally try to do this at least once a year in the fall, but if I'm using it frequently, I try to remember about every 10 hours of use (that might take me two months).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After doing this a couple times you get the feel for how fast moisture collects and plan accordingly.  But doing it more often isn't a big deal other than the time you spend on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-05-07T16:16:05.803" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T16:16:05.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1344" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1346" CreationDate="2015-05-07T17:16:00.010" Score="16" ViewCount="17338" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/353/what-kind-of-wood-dust-is-toxic-dangerous-and-requires-usage-of-dust-mask/355#355&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;, it is noted that a woodworker with a beard should consider a positive airflow respirator due to the beard preventing a good seal. I have also seen (on metalworking forums) the suggestion of a full face respirator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much does having a beard affect the effectiveness of a &quot;normal&quot; respirator like this one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v2KGF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Respirator&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="165" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-05-10T18:49:57.050" Title="What kind/style of respirator is appropriate for someone with a beard?" Tags="|safety|sawdust|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1344" CreationDate="2015-05-07T18:22:14.910" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Standard test for respirator seal; put it on your face without the straps. Cover the inlets with your palms.. Suck in a breath and hold it. It should maintain the resulting partial vacuum for a reasonable time. If it doesn't, some air is sneaking in around the mask every time you breathe in; the better the filters the more leakage past them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Better than nothing, but you aren't getting the protection you should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Positive pressure does solve that problem; any leakage is clean to dirty rather than the other way around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(my beard comes and goes; the moustache mostly stays.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2015-05-07T20:46:12.213" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T20:46:12.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1344" CreationDate="2015-05-07T18:35:23.137" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;A beard will cause leakage around a standard half-mask &quot;passive&quot; respirator. The respirator's effectiveness will vary depending on how thick your beard is and how tightly the respirator fits over your beard, but keep in mind that air will follow the path of least resistance. Your beard won't provide anywhere near the filtration of a P100 cartridge which removes 99.97% of particles 0.3 microns and larger. Some air will probably still pass through the filter, but if it's easier for the air to flow through your beard than through the respirator's filter, the respirator won't be very effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should consider using a positive pressure respirator, also called a Powered Air Purifying Respirator (PAPR). This type of respirator pulls air in through a filter and exhausts the filtered air inside the respirator, producing continuous outward leakage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/abh4E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;trend airshield powered respirator&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/trend-airshield&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One disadvantage of the all-in-one units as pictured above is that they are heavy. Some other variations use a belt- or backpack-mounted motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6hwfc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Triton powered respirator&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodnews/february_2007/employeecont_feb07.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One additional advantage of powered full-face respirators over a typical full-face shield is that the continuously-circulating air prevents the face shield from fogging up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-05-07T19:02:37.390" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T19:02:37.390" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1344" CreationDate="2015-05-07T19:30:24.900" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use (and recommend) a product called Resp-o-Rator. It has a scuba-style mouthpiece that routes over your shoulders to two HEPA filters that are positioned behind your head. It's passive (no power required), lightweight, and inexpensive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.duckworksbbs.com/tools/resp/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.duckworksbbs.com/tools/resp/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, I don't use the nose clip and haven't had any issues. If you can't breathe through your mouth without plugging your nose, though, it might be problematic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastEditorUserId="563" LastEditDate="2015-05-10T18:49:57.050" LastActivityDate="2015-05-10T18:49:57.050" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1319" CreationDate="2015-05-07T20:13:29.400" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't want to be left out of this party, so here's my take. No matter how carefully you measure you're always going to have one half slightly larger than the other after the first cut. So you need to cut one slightly short and trim the other to match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the biggest thing other answers are missing is the use of a stop block to guarantee a repeatable cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would probably use a combination of bowlturner's and null's answers, since null's is a pretty good method of finding the center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a tape measure (or any other &lt;strong&gt;rigid&lt;/strong&gt; tool with a length&#xA;slightly more     than the length of the board and a known center).&#xA;I wouldn't use a string because it would stretch. Place one end of&#xA;the tape measure at the end of the board, use a friend to hold it if&#xA;you have to. Place the final marker at a point which is easily&#xA;divided and mark. As mentioned, it's practically impossible to&#xA;position for a single cut that will guarantee two boards of the&#xA;exact same length. instead we get close and make two cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your miter may or may not have a stop. If it does not, you can use a&#xA;board clamped to your miter table as the stop. Position the board so&#xA;that the blade is on the &lt;strong&gt;inside&lt;/strong&gt; of the measured line(This&#xA;guarantees that the &quot;unfinished&quot; piece will be slightly longer than&#xA;the &quot;finished&quot; piece).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Secure your stop so that the next cut will be of the exact same&#xA;length. Make sure it's secure so that positioning the next cut will&#xA;not shift your stop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make your cut. You now have two pieces, the one that was against the&#xA;stop is now your &quot;finished&quot; piece. Set it aside and place the&#xA;unfinished piece against the stop. Cut off the sliver left on the&#xA;end and your two boards will be exactly the same length and only a&#xA;very small amount of board will have been lost, approximately 2x the&#xA;kerf.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Bear in mind that this applies to a board which is already squared on both ends&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Another option, if you are &lt;em&gt;guaranteed&lt;/em&gt; that your board is rectangular&lt;/strong&gt; (parallel sides with right angles at every corner): you use another technique to find the center which would be more accurate with no measuring at all:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a straight edge along the top left corner diagonally to the&#xA;bottom right corner. Mark a line at approximately the center of the&#xA;board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the straight edge so that it is now from the top right corner&#xA;to the bottom left corner and again mark a line at approximately the&#xA;center of the board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The intersection of these points is the center of the rectangle. Use&#xA;a square to make a line through this intersection; this is your&#xA;center line.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Follow steps 2 through 4 from the first procedure to make your cut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="180" LastEditDate="2015-05-07T20:18:49.010" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T20:18:49.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1349" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1353" CreationDate="2015-05-07T20:21:34.547" Score="15" ViewCount="44103" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have come across a lot of designs and plans for things like outdoor furniture, kids' furniture, etc., that call for the use of pocket holes.  I can appreciate why this is enticing to a lot of people as it's a lot simpler that mortise and tenon joints or dovetails while still being concealed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Matthias Wandel has an article on &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodgears.ca/joint_strength/pockethole.html&quot;&gt;Testing pocket holes against mortise and tenon and dowel joints&lt;/a&gt; where he finds that they are indeed significantly weaker than other joint types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the exception of small objects, 99lbs as an average breaking force for a pocket joint doesn't seem very strong at all.  I could see a tabletop generate forces beyond this with just a few adults leaning on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any times when this is an appropriate joinery technique to use, over alternatives? Or are they just typically used when someone doesn't have the skill, time (or maybe cost) to build a more robust joint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-05-08T04:39:28.290" LastActivityDate="2020-05-06T14:46:05.070" Title="When are pocket holes an appropriate joinery technique?" Tags="|technique|joinery|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1349" CreationDate="2015-05-07T20:32:31.377" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pocket hole joinery is commonly used in cabinet face frames, but it can be useful in many other applications, as well. Jay Bates' website has an &lt;a href=&quot;http://jayscustomcreations.com/category/kreg-jig-projects/&quot;&gt;entire category of projects&lt;/a&gt; he's built using pocket hole joinery, ranging from a jewelry cabinet to a bunk bed to a bar stool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with many types of joints, pocket hole joinery is &lt;em&gt;strong enough&lt;/em&gt; in many applications. For example, there are even tutorials on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-build-a-cheap-and-easy-workbench-for-woodwo/&quot;&gt;how to build a workbench using pocket holes&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pocket hole joinery is really just a very fancy form of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wikihow.com/Toenail-Wood&quot;&gt;toenailing&lt;/a&gt;, which is a construction technique commonly used in building houses and cabinets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You typically wouldn't subject pocket hole joints to the type of racking force demonstrated in Matthias' experiments. If you do want to use pocket holes in such an application, you can reinforce against the racking forces with additional cross members and diagonal braces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also keep in mind that a project using pocket screws does not have to use them exclusively as the only joinery method. You can certainly use pocket screws for some parts of a project and some other joinery method for other parts of the project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-05-07T20:57:29.130" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T20:57:29.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1349" CreationDate="2015-05-07T20:33:01.580" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless we are talking about some fancy glueless japanese joinery, there is a fundamental difference: both mortise + tenon and dove tails are glued together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pocket hole joinery is screwed together, which allows you to take it apart again. If the ability to disassemble the result of your work again at some later point in time, pocket holes are in fact superior to the other two, no matter how weak they are or what jig they require.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that large dining table doesn't fit through the door, strong joints aren't helpful at all. and if you glue the parts together inside the room, you will never get the table back out in one piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="443" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T20:33:01.580" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1349" CreationDate="2015-05-07T20:34:21.817" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Kreg pocket hole jig and I find it very useful. Many places where someone might only have a glued joint I will use the pocket holes to strengthen it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 99lbs. on a joint is actually quite a lot for many joints, because often the force gets spread out over multiple joints. Not only that by adding more screws you increase the strength. Now after all that, I agree there are plenty of joints I would not use a pocket hole for because I don't feel they are strong enough. I take that on a case by case judgment call.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used them often in my book shelves to reinforce glue joints.  It also lets me have 'strong' joints that look 'different' if I tried to create them a different way.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One important part is the direction the screws are holding the joint together vs the direction of the normal force being put to them. Anything that would be 'pulling' the screw 'out' of the wood (such as twisting side to side) in general will eventually fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every joint type has its place, and taking things into account such as time, appearance, needed strength and expected life of the joint should go into the decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-05-06T14:46:05.070" LastActivityDate="2020-05-06T14:46:05.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1349" CreationDate="2015-05-07T20:50:52.883" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind that that 99 lbs is for a single joint with pressure being applied in the manner of a first class lever in Mr. Wandel's experiment. You will have multiple pocket holes in a given construction. Let's look at your table example. Most of that pressure is being distributed through the legs and into the floor,  say you have four legs and four boards making up the frame that the tabletop attaches to. it's also being used in conjunction with wood glue (e.g. titebond), so you're not just looking at the strength of the screws but the glue as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even disregarding the fact that you're going to glue your pocket holes, that pressure is distributed over at a minimum of two joints and much of the pressure from someone leaning on the table is going into the legs themselves, not into the class one lever directly applied to the joint like Mr. Wandel used for his experiment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A pocket hole joint is great for face frames as rob mentioned. A friend of mine used a kreg jig to build his desk and it has not fallen to pieces around him. I probably wouldn't use it for a kitchen table as the sole joint, but I wouldn't be opposed to using them to help clamp mortise and tenon joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frankly, I think Mr. Wandels' experiment is misleading in that it shows that a single joint is stronger, but the impression it gives is that you shouldn't use pocket holes because they're weak, and that simply isn't the case. I am curious to know why his experiment &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/how-to/pocket-hole-joinery-kreg-jig/&quot;&gt;disagrees with Kreg's claims from &quot;independent testing.&quot;&lt;/a&gt; Kreg claims that a pocket hole joint can sustain more shear load than a mortise and tenon joint. This may be true, since Wandel's test wasn't for a shear load. It might be interesting to see how that experiment was done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mostly I think there is opposition to pocket hole joinery because it isn't &quot;classy.&quot; Woodworkers like to think of themselves as rustic traditionalists, carrying on a craft passed on for generations. Pocket holes may seem too much like a crutch, or being too &quot;modern,&quot; but they're frankly plenty strong for quite a few situations, including light tables and desks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T20:50:52.883" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1354" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-07T21:18:03.170" Score="6" ViewCount="1633" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to make a new storm door since the previous one rotted.  It was made of pine and developed decay quite quickly in the dado slots holding floating panels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking about using cedar because of its higher resistance to decay, but I'm concerned about its strength and movement due to moisture changes.  Is this a reasonable choice? (I live in the northern United States in an area where rain and snow are concerns.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The previous door was painted and I plan to paint this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2015-11-11T21:22:06.000" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T21:22:06.000" Title="What kind of wood should I use for a storm door?" Tags="|wood-selection|door|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1354" CreationDate="2015-05-07T21:33:27.750" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's sealed well, any wood should really be sufficient.  Cedar has a little more natural rot repellent, and so does Tamerack, though I haven't seen much Tamerack actually for sale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pine, Basswood are both a little more susceptible to sitting moisture so I would likely avoid them.  Oak, maple and most decent hard woods would be fine, though a little heavy and expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T21:33:27.750" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1356" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1359" CreationDate="2015-05-07T23:24:58.203" Score="11" ViewCount="25539" Body="&lt;p&gt;When putting multiple coats of stain on a piece of wood, should wood conditioner be applied between each coat or only before the first coat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18" LastActivityDate="2018-02-09T18:21:52.000" Title="Wood conditioner between stain layers" Tags="|staining|surface-preparation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1356" CreationDate="2015-05-08T00:24:22.363" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only before the first. Wood conditioner's job is to manage stain absorption in woods which would otherwise soak it up strangely. Once that partial pore-filling has been done, stain shouldn't disturb it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-05-08T11:42:06.270" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T11:42:06.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1358" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1361" CreationDate="2015-05-08T08:08:40.940" Score="7" ViewCount="307" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a walnut slab that I'm using for a coffee table.  It has a small crack at the edge that at it's maximum is maybe 1.5&quot;-2&quot; wide, but quickly narrows to a 5&quot; long .25&quot; or less wide crack.  The slab is 1.5&quot; thick.  More for aesthetic purposes than anything else I put a bowtie in the crack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've sanded and started finishing the bottom side using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.butcherblock.com/product/emmets-good-stuff/&quot;&gt;emmet's good stuff&lt;/a&gt;.  The inside of the crack is really hard to get into -- it's super narrow and it takes a few curves in the z-axis (e.g. you can't see through to the other side of the crack in the narrow section.  I can see loose wood fibers etc—it's totally unfinished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aesthetically it's not a huge deal, but I'd like to seal that wood to prevent moisture from getting in.  What's a good way to do that?  I can't get a brush or rag through the crack.  On top of that the Good Stuff is a super viscous gel that won't drip through.  I thought about masking the bottom side, thinning down the Good Stuff till it's runny (alternatively I could use another finish that's less viscous), and letting it just kind of sit in the crack for a bit, but I'm not sure how well that will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="566" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-05-08T11:36:23.467" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T13:57:33.993" Title="How can I apply finish/seal inside a narrow crack in walnut slab?" Tags="|technique|finishing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1356" CreationDate="2015-05-08T08:18:01.077" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;should wood conditioner be applied between each coat or only before the first coat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only before the first coat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pre-stain wood conditioners are to help (note: not solve) with &lt;em&gt;blotching&lt;/em&gt;, which is the irregular absorption of stain into the wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most woods have some variation in absorption from earlywood to latewood, but for blotch-prone woods the absorption is irregular even across those zones and it's this in particular that leads to the ugly results that pre-stain conditioners are intended to help with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before there were commercial products for this purpose craftsmen obviously had to contend with blotching. The wood might be &lt;em&gt;sized&lt;/em&gt;, painted with a thin layer of dilute glue, or have a dilute layer of shellac or varnish applied, a little later diluted lacquer was used in exactly the same way. This is called a spitcoat or washcoat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should give some pointer to what commercial wood conditioners might be, and in fact many oil-based pre-stain conditioners are nothing more than thinned polyurethane varnish... which of course the woodworker can make for themselves at a fraction of the cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a good example of the improvement that pre-stain conditioning can provide:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zz8WO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Stained conditioned and unconditioned wood&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;But unfortunately results are not always this good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the commercial products are much the same as what was (and still is) used by craftsmen it begs the question: why were there results better? The main reason is that the application recommendations on commercial wood conditioners can be incorrect. The instructions on the tin may suggest you apply conditioner and then within a short period apply your stain, but this is wholly wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure this is in part to make the product seem more user-friendly in this I-want-results-now era, but it does the purchaser no favours. If instead you do what craftsmen did, and still do, and apply your per-stain conditioner (or thinner shellac or varnish) and wait for it to fully dry, results will be far better and more consistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;An alternate approach&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;These days many of us can take advantage of a newer type of colouring finish, gel stains. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gel stain&lt;/strong&gt; is essentially thicker coloured varnish, and because of its gelled consistency it is not readily absorbed into the wood fibres but sits on top as a coloured layer. And for this reason it nearly completely prevents blotching, even on woods particularly prone to it such as pine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T08:18:01.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1358" CreationDate="2015-05-08T12:50:58.917" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, get what you can with a small brush (even using a small water color painting brush), the rest isn't really that important.  I have read that it is actually a good thing for wood to have some ability to breath.  If you have a bowtie then what little movement you might have shouldn't make any difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is something like a bartop where you are going to have liquids spilled on it, that is a different matter and then I would recommend filling the crack with epoxy and making is flush, you will still see it, but it will be protected from liquids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T12:50:58.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1358" CreationDate="2015-05-08T12:51:12.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Filling the crack with epoxy, as bowlturner suggested, is probably the best solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to fill it, you can cover the bottom of the crack with tape, put a generous amount of finish over the crack, and use compressed air or the &quot;blow&quot; feature on your shop-vac to push the finish further into the crack--but watch out, it could get messy. If using a compressor I'd set it for a low pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also try putting finish on the top side and using a vacuum on the other side to pull the finish into the crack, but this may not work very well on a larger crack, and you'll pull a significant amount of finish into your vacuum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-05-08T13:57:33.993" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T13:57:33.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1304" CreationDate="2015-05-08T13:00:09.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never actually done any woodturning myself, but I've done some reading and from what I hear, if I were doing it I would (in addition to the other excellent answers) want to wear a protective apron (see below) and a full face visor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pl1b5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Leather woodturning apron&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's particularly important to be aware of any faults with the piece you're turning. If the wood has any major cracks, fissures etc, and particularly  when turning burls (which are quite commonly made into bowls), the piece can basically explode and fling a &lt;strong&gt;large&lt;/strong&gt; chunk of material at you very fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think generally if you're working with sound timber then you should be mostly fine in this regard, but it's still a good idea to stand &quot;out of the line of fire&quot; i.e. don't stand directly in line with where you're cutting the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T13:00:09.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1363" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1364" CreationDate="2015-05-08T15:05:28.287" Score="9" ViewCount="1170" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently decided to make a magic wand with my son as a small project. He's been showing it off a bit (despite being very simple/basic), and now we've been asked to make a bunch more for family/friends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I do, I'd like to know if there's an easier or more effective way to do this. They're being made from 1/2&quot; oak dowels (straight from a big box store), about a foot or so long:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DvlYg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;basic wand&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't want to use a lathe, mainly because it's so thin in some areas. So, I ended up using the outer edge of a disc sander to shape most of it. It was somewhat tedious, and it's not as symmetrical and &quot;smooth&quot; as I'd like. There's also a limit on the angle/shape of &quot;cuts&quot;, since I can only hold it to the sander at so much of an angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They would all be a bit differently shaped, with varying handle sizes, groove locations, etc. So I'm guessing anything that uses some sort of shaped jig wouldn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my main questions are: Would it be safe on a lathe to go down to about half diameter? If not, what would the best tool for the job be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="570" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T02:43:30.357" Title="Is there a better way to make a wand?" Tags="|tools|dowel|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1363" CreationDate="2015-05-08T15:14:40.693" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made several wands on my lathe and it works just fine.  I've gotten them down to close to a 1/4&quot; thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there is vibration and chatter that happens so, you have a couple options.  One includes spending money, getting a steady rest makes it SO easy that if you are going to do a bunch it might be worth it, there are even plans for making your own fairly cheaply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other is to just slow down when you are getting close to the final shape, use a lot of sand paper and keep your chisels very sharp. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: by using the lathe I also will cut 3/4&quot; square pieces out of a board and turn them round, saving a little on the cost of materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-05-08T15:27:39.767" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T15:27:39.767" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="444" CreationDate="2015-05-08T17:00:36.367" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a bit late to this question, but I started out with not much more than you have.  I decided that the best way to learn to build nice cabinets would be to build shop cabinets to learn on.  I could work on my technique and use what I built to better organize my shop and if I made a mistake, it wasn't the end of the world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first recommendation is a book by Tom Clark, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tomclarkbooks.com/Practical_Shop_Cabinets.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Practical Shop Cabinets&lt;/a&gt;.  This is a great book that I used in building most of my cabinets.  There are four tools I'd suggest you get. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0044BBOQK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kreg Pocket Hole Jig&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a decent circular saw with a guide rail (make or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kregtool.com/store/c48/saw-attachments/p79/rip-cuttrade/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;buy&lt;/a&gt; one)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a few parallel or bar clamps as long as the widest dimension of the cabinets you want to build&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An accurate square&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used baltic birch plywood, and was able to build my first few cabinets with just those tools.  Until I got a jointer and planer, I just used dimensional hardwood from Home Depot for my face frames. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T17:00:36.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1363" CreationDate="2015-05-08T18:22:56.107" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cannot attest to the use of the lathe for something that small. That is &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/1364/128&quot;&gt;bowlturner&lt;/a&gt;'s domain after all. &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/1162/128&quot;&gt;This answer&lt;/a&gt; also touches on making dowels with a lathe so, in theory, it could be turned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm getting into more hand tools myself and if I was to approach this I might use variations of the following approaches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spoke shave&lt;/strong&gt;: They are meant for shaping wooden rods and shafts so using them for making wands would be akin to the spoke shaves use. However it might be harder on small dowel given the diameter. Still, it could work. More than likely I would use ...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Power Drill/Driver as a lathe&lt;/strong&gt;: Chuck of a decent drill would hold that dowel. There could be an issue with how straight your piece is to start but given the length I don't see the fly-out being a big issue. I would use this to try and make the groves you have in your picture as well. I don't think you can use turning tools or even a chisel this way safely. You could wrap sandpaper around a block to get a 90 degree angle to sand in the grooves. A rasp would also help to remove the larger portions. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the same idea you could also use a drill press as that is also used as a turning substitute and has more consistent RPM and free both your hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note on Uniformity&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would embrace the uniqueness of the non-symmetrical non-uniform design as it adds character. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T12:34:21.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1367" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1374" CreationDate="2015-05-09T00:23:22.233" Score="7" ViewCount="4105" Body="&lt;p&gt;While researching the answer to the question about &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1005/what-are-the-techniques-to-seal-or-remove-sap/1008#1008&quot;&gt;What are the techniques to seal or remove sap?&lt;/a&gt; I found that putting the wood in a dry kiln, under specific circumstances, is one sure way to bake/seal the sap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While there might be an accessible dry kiln in my area I am not using large piece or large quantities of wood to justify the potential cost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, as my title says, can I use a conventional oven or toaster oven as a dry kiln?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2015-05-09T07:22:42.970" Title="Can I use a conventional oven or toaster oven as something similar to a dry kiln?" Tags="|kiln-dried-wood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1368" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1370" CreationDate="2015-05-09T00:28:37.283" Score="11" ViewCount="17798" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two pieces of plywood that I joined with biscuits and wood glue (wiping away all excess glue after joining the two pieces. I then sanded the whole piece down to 220 grit.  After staining there is a large light streak where (I'm assuming) glue was left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zfsyF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Can&amp;#39;t stain over glue&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can this be fixed, and if so how?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-10-01T03:07:37.263" LastActivityDate="2024-01-26T09:30:25.307" Title="Glue spots under stain" Tags="|joinery|staining|glue|plywood|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1368" CreationDate="2015-05-09T00:56:07.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;At this point, you'll need to sand or plane and refinish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For future reference, don't wipe the glue off with either a wet or dry towel, because you'll mostly succeed in smearing a thin layer of glue across the surface. Instead, either let the glue dry completely and scrape it off with a chisel or paint scraper, or let it dry until it's tacky and shave it off with a razor blade or putty knife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2015-05-09T00:56:07.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1368" CreationDate="2015-05-09T01:32:50.587" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem appears to be that glue has sealed the pores of the wood, preventing stain from penetrating. In order to fix the stain, you'll first need to get to wood that's not sealed. I can think of two options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Remove the glue from the wood.&lt;/strong&gt; You might be able to use a solvent appropriate to the kind of glue you used to loosen and weaken the glue, and then scrub with something like a Scotch-Brite pad. How well this will work will depend on whether the glue is really absorbed into the wood or just layered on top. I've heard that vinegar can work as a mild solvent for PVA (wood) glue, so you could try that.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Remove the wood that has been sealed to get down to bare wood.&lt;/strong&gt; In other words, sand or scrape more of the wood away. With plywood projects, though, it's very easy to sand right through the top layer of veneer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until you get down to bare wood, the stain won't be able to penetrate evenly and you'll continue to have problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some strategies for avoiding this problem in the future:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use less glue.&lt;/strong&gt; If there's less glue, there's less to squeeze out and cause problems, but it's hard to get enough glue on the joint without having some squeeze out.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Protect the wood.&lt;/strong&gt; People sometimes use clear packing tape to cover the wood near joints during glue up. This (mostly) prevents the glue from contacting the wood. Glue and tape can then be removed after the glue has set enough that it's no longer liquid. Sometimes the glue still seeps under the tape, though, so this isn't entirely effective.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Avoid wiping.&lt;/strong&gt; If you don't use too much glue, you can usually just let it squeeze out and form little beads along the joint. When the glue dries (or nearly dries), it's easy to remove by running a sharp chisel along the joint.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wipe effectively.&lt;/strong&gt; If you want to wipe the glue away, use sponge or towel that's quite damp. PVA glues can be cleaned up with water before they dry, so you can wipe excess glue away with water. You need to be really thorough if you go this route since any glue you miss will likely be pushed into the wood, resulting in the same problem you have now.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the big hassles with glue stains, as you've discovered, is that they can be hard to detect until you stain or finish your project, and they're a pain to fix at that point. If you have this problem a lot, you might be interested in Titebond II Fluorescent glue, which glows under black light so that you can clean up before the glue dries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2015-05-09T01:32:50.587" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1367" CreationDate="2015-05-09T02:03:53.593" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a solar kiln so I've done a little studying about drying wood.  This is a new one on me, but I would think you'd want to keep the temperature under 200F.  For solar kilns it's recommended to keep it under 160F (usually under to 140) but, that is for wood drying for possibly weeks.  I think if you stay under 200F you could probably be fine for 60-120 minutes.  Get the wood heated through and a little time to set the pitch.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also recommend having a pan under the wood to catch any pitch that should leave the wood, or you might be sleeping in the dog house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-05-09T02:03:53.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1344" CreationDate="2015-05-09T06:48:01.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the 3m PAPR which has now been updated and looks to be way better than mine. I do like what feels like a cool breeze on my face when wearing it. &#xA;The belt does not work for me, I had to buy tool belt suspenders, the face shield falls apart quite often when flipping up and down, I must disassemble it and re-assemble whenever this happens. I bought mine in 2008, I still can still get probably 8 hours on each battery, I have an extra which it did not come with. It was very expensive but I have occupational related asthma and it works to protect me.  It is very awesome when using a router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="494" LastEditorUserId="494" LastEditDate="2015-05-09T16:27:18.300" LastActivityDate="2015-05-09T16:27:18.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1373" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1387" CreationDate="2015-05-09T07:03:00.247" Score="8" ViewCount="216" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to learn to use shellac. From what I've heard it's one of the more difficult finishes to achieve. Why? I plan to practice on a few pieces before I use it on something I really care about. What should I be watching out for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="462" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T18:51:59.267" Title="What to look for in making a good shellac finish" Tags="|technique|finishing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1367" CreationDate="2015-05-09T07:22:42.970" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can force-dry smaller pieces of wood successfully at home and a toaster oven is a good way to try it out. You can of course also use a conventional oven in the same way. But in either case it is not advisable to again use the oven to cook in as heating the wood will release &lt;em&gt;extractives&lt;/em&gt; which can turn into noxious and/or harmful compounds at the higher temperatures used for cooking. At the very least it can impart &quot;off flavours&quot; to foods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Low temperatures for a long time is the way to go with conventional heating and depending on how green the wood is to begin with and how dry you want it to end up you may be looking at baking the wood for more than 24 hours. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because wood varies so much obviously results can be very varied, which is why there are as many reported successes as failures if you read up about attempts to do this. But another reason is that the thermostats on ovens (even full-sized ones from well-respected brands) are often very inaccurate — reportedly as much as 50° off the stated temperature — so as with temperature-sensitive cooking tasks it is advisable to rely on an in-oven thermometer to accurately gauge the internal temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the thermostat inaccuracies ovens don't maintain temperature very well and I believe toaster ovens are particularly noted for this. So if you want to maintain a more consistent temperature one method is to use a large 'heat sink' within the oven, which can be nothing more sophisticated than a shallow pan full of sand. A large piece of cast iron cookware would do a similar job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternate method: &lt;strong&gt;microwave&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Another option to speed drying of wood is to use a microwave. I heard about this first used by turners who were seeking to speed the process up when starting with green wood. I've used microwaving myself with great success. My own experiments have confirmed in a very unscientific way the accepted practice here: short blast, long wait, short blast etc. Approximate times for single pieces were 10-20 seconds, wait for 2 minutes or longer, repeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you're seeking to do is keep the temperature fairly low; you don't want to boil the water in the wood as this can weaken the structure and in addition it produces &quot;wood steam&quot;, which can smell unpleasant and can linker for weeks. Or months. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-05-09T07:22:42.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1376" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-09T18:49:10.570" Score="5" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;My basement shop area currently has open floor joists above it, with insulation batting between them. (Yes, I know current theory says insulating there is of minimum value, but for sake of discussion ...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hand tools, and even small power tools, don't throw enough dust that I've had to worry about this. But as I scale up and start to get more serious about dust collection,  it occurs to me to wonder...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much risk is there of enough sawdust settling in that insulation to compromise its non-flammability? Do I need to speed up the decision about whether to install a ceiling or remove that batting?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I suppose I should note that the insulation in this case is a fireproofed cellulose -- the batting equivalent of blown-in. Much more pleasant to work with than fiberglass.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-05-09T23:36:23.053" LastActivityDate="2015-05-09T23:51:17.250" Title="Woodshop and fiber insulation" Tags="|safety|sawdust|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1376" CreationDate="2015-05-09T19:09:55.647" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't believe anyone actually tested how sawdust contamination affects flammability of glass-wool or cellulose insulation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just installing a vapor barrier on the bottom will help prevent dust accumulation on the insulation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2015-05-09T23:51:17.250" LastActivityDate="2015-05-09T23:51:17.250" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1378" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-09T20:19:40.147" Score="9" ViewCount="315" Body="&lt;p&gt;I inherited some wooden patio furniture from a previous owner that looks like it's been through a lot:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Epvv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;wooden outdoor chair and table&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love the raw, unfinished look of this stuff, but I'd also like it to last another dozen years without being annihilated by the West Coast rain and damp. What should I do to protect this furniture that won't totally change the look?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="575" LastActivityDate="2015-05-10T22:06:25.910" Title="How to protect worn wooden outdoor furniture?" Tags="|furniture|water-protection|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1379" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1381" CreationDate="2015-05-09T22:30:03.150" Score="6" ViewCount="1190" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, can it be done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, how does one mix and match stains to achieve the right color? Is it highly unlikely that I'll get it right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="577" LastActivityDate="2015-05-10T23:00:00.280" Title="How can I stain birch plywood to match sapele?" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1378" CreationDate="2015-05-09T23:04:53.220" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately there's no product that'll really do what you want here. You can certainly add protection but everything will change some aspect of the current appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good oiling (with periodic maintenance each year) will add protection, it won't stop further degradation but it will limit it. However it will also significantly alter the colouration as both boiled linseed oil and tung oil (the two main oils used for exterior applications) are some sort of amber colour and impart a noticeable yellowness once a few coats have been applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good exterior varnish like spar varnish is also noticeably yellow. Also very glossy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are clear finishes that would provide very good weather protection, including notably epoxy finishes intended for marine applications, but they require a good film to be applied to work well and hence are also very glossy. This gloss can be reduced somewhat by rubbing down, but they'll still feel like they're coated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, there's no absolute guarantee a film finish (varnish, lacquer or epoxy) will adhere properly to the wood in this condition. Standard advice for finishing is always to apply to a sound, clean surface, which these obviously don't have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-05-09T23:04:53.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1379" CreationDate="2015-05-09T23:20:15.443" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;First of all, can it be done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Broadly speaking yes, any darker wood can be matched by any lighter wood (in terms of colour, grain pattern is another story).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;how does one mix and match stains to achieve the right color? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the hard part. Without specific products lined up and samples of the same woods you're using it's essentially impossible for someone to give you a sure-fire recommendation that'll give a match. It may get you close, but your standards for a match may need better than someone else's &quot;close enough&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The usual recommendation with this sort of thing is to experiment for yourself using scraps of the wood you're using. Unfortunately this can mean buying one or more products you don't end up using, but that's unavoidable unless you get lucky with the very first thing you buy to test out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One important aspect to bear in mind: say there is something that gives just the right colouring (doesn't matter if it's something you mixed or an off-the-shelf product). That perfect match is completely dependent on coat thickness: too thin and it'll end up too light, too thick and it'll be too dark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-05-09T23:20:15.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1363" CreationDate="2015-05-10T02:51:57.087" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that you're using a hardwood, one foot of material can be turned down to 1/4&quot; (6mm).  Make sure that the entire piece is very round and vibration free when you start, and try to keep the spinning mass low (ie, reduce it evenly - don't make one area thin, then move on to the next).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This article shows a similar, perhaps more challenging turning, but demonstrates that it is readily possible:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/118202/turning-a-better-honey-dipper&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/118202/turning-a-better-honey-dipper&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... pencil-thin, no steadyrest, large ring, turned from single piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/assets/uploads/posts/118202/IMG_4395_web_lg.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Honeydipper with integral stops and loose jar lid, turned from single piece http://www.finewoodworking.com/assets/uploads/posts/118202/IMG_4395_web_lg.gif&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="235" LastEditDate="2015-05-11T12:48:39.280" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T12:48:39.280" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1378" CreationDate="2015-05-10T12:12:22.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Graphus did an excellent job running down finishes and what you'll get.  The one thing I would add is to keep them close to their current state and significantly reduce their decline is to keep them out of the rain.  Either put them away when you don't need them (huge pain, I'd almost never bother to take them back out!) or put them under some kind of awning at or near where you want to use them. (another woodworking project!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-05-10T12:12:22.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1379" CreationDate="2015-05-10T12:23:53.107" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing of course is you are going to need test pieces of the plywood you are planning to use.  I would think 4-6&quot; square would be good sizes, anything smaller and optical illusions can make pieces look darker or lighter than they really are as well as give you a big enough piece to see possible splotching.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Birch has a splotching problem in general, so you are likely going to want to 'condition' the plywood both before testing and before final staining of your finished piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stain gets darker the more coats you put on it so, ideally you'll want to get your stain to work with one or two coats and then use a clear finish to seal.  Having a picture of your target piece might give us a chance to point you in the right direction of color mixing, but you are still going to have a bit of work ahead of you depending on luck and how close you are looking to get them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One final thought, is that if this piece sits in sunlight, wood tends to darken  a little faster, and the stains might breakdown and get lighter, so also take that into consideration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-05-10T23:00:00.280" LastActivityDate="2015-05-10T23:00:00.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1385" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1389" CreationDate="2015-05-10T22:02:00.083" Score="9" ViewCount="11202" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made some box joints and thus far I've found it difficult to ensure that the teeth are evenly spaced; there's usually a pin that is cut down a bit.  Is there an equation or method of determining what the board's width should be?  Is it as simple as &quot;always ensure board is a multiple of 2x the kerf of the dado set?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2020-12-21T12:53:47.390" Title="When making a box joint, how do I calculate the width of the board so that the teeth appear even?" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1378" CreationDate="2015-05-10T22:06:25.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try a semi-transparent oil-based stain of the type that is frequently used for fences and decks.  It is lightly pigmented and comes in a variety of colors (including gray).  The stuff is easy to apply and the oil soaks into the wood with no need to worry about brush strokes, peeling or blistering. The grain of the wood still shows through and it does not have the sheen of a surface treatment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be pricey, but sometimes you can get lucky with a sale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2015-05-10T22:06:25.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1373" CreationDate="2015-05-11T01:33:33.460" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am very much an amateur woodworker, but I love shellac.&#xA;If you are after a perfect finish, then yes, it is hard to get right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are after something good enough (As I am), then it is really easy. You sand it back smooth (I use 180 grit) then start with light coats. You let it dry, sand it again and repeat. After 4-5 you should start to feel and see the smoothness. A few more coats and you have a high gloss finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a nice sunny day, you can get 2-3 coats an hour so it takes no time all all. The real trick is to use light coats.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally it is pretty cheap. The flakes are ~ $30 AUD and a 4L bottle of metho is $5. A bottle of flakes generally lasts for quite a few work pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="394" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T01:33:33.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1388" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-11T03:43:42.950" Score="9" ViewCount="11973" Body="&lt;p&gt;My cousin's fiancee is looking to build a bench for their kitchen. From his description, it sounds like what I would call a &quot;slab bench.&quot; Just three thick slabs of wood, two for legs and one long one (about 60 inches he said). He hasn't decided on a wood. I recommended hardwood, but in retrospect given the thickness of the slabs, I think it might actually be worth trying in pine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I told him I would typically use a frame or angle braces to prevent the seat from bowing and to make a rigid connection from the legs to the seat, but if it's a thick enough slab maybe that wouldn't be an issue:&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Is a 3-4 inch thick slab enough that it won't noticeably bow?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they were to not use angle braces or a frame (i.e. there are only 3 members, no supporting structure), &lt;em&gt;how should I connect the legs&lt;/em&gt;? I thought maybe just a really big mortise and tenon for each leg would do it, but I'm still concerned about it being weak. Should I just tell them to suck it up and reinforce the connections?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;edit&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I've been provided with a reference picture of what he's looking at. It looks like it's just reclaimed 4x4 lumber with a miter, ... maybe biscuits or something as well, but no braces or anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T1S6W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="180" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T22:06:04.283" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T20:43:38.197" Title="How thick do slabs need to be in a slab bench?" Tags="|joinery|furniture|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1385" CreationDate="2015-05-11T04:49:59.913" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start by taking a multiple of the pin width, then add a little extra and cut all the slots/kerfs on all sides of the box. Once you're done, trim each side flush with the edge of a pin or slot. If you prefer, you can trim it to size after assembling and gluing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To guarantee that the teeth are evenly-spaced, use a jig. Popular Woodworking has a great &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/tablesaw-box-joints&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; on how to build a box joint jig, and Fine Woodworking has a nice &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/interactive/finger-joint-jig-for-the-tablesaw/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;interactive demo&lt;/a&gt; illustrating how a box joint jig works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that FWW calls it a finger joint jig because many people use the terms &lt;em&gt;finger joint&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;box joint&lt;/em&gt; interchangeably, but personally I like to differentiate the right-angle joining version as a box joint and the straight joining version (e.g., to &quot;lengthen&quot; a board) as a finger joint since the straight joining version also often has tapered fingers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-05-16T01:10:53.440" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T01:10:53.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1390" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1394" CreationDate="2015-05-11T05:18:33.560" Score="13" ViewCount="4669" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is a wedged through tenon and how is it constructed? How is it different than a &quot;standard&quot; mortise and tenon? When should it be used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-12-27T09:35:38.840" LastActivityDate="2021-12-27T09:35:38.840" Title="What is a wedged through tenon and how is it used?" Tags="|joinery|terminology|knockdown|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1391" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1393" CreationDate="2015-05-11T05:25:49.610" Score="6" ViewCount="550" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a fairly simple project I'm considering which will require slabs of approximately 3-4 inches thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of its light weight and price I thought I might use 2x4 dimensional lumber to make the slabs, the largest of which will be approximately 60x18x3.5 inches, but I'm concerned because of the poor quality of dimensional lumber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is laminating the planks enough to counter the tendency to warp that plainsawn lumber is prone to if I alternate the grain patterns, or should I just get higher quality pine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T07:58:41.717" Title="Would a slab constructed from 2x4s be stable?" Tags="|lumber|glue|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1391" CreationDate="2015-05-11T05:55:48.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a word &quot;yes&quot; the slab will be stable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how you are using the platforms you can either run the wood over a jointer and glue the boards together, or just glue the boards together, or nail the boards together with 16 penny nails.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you pay attention to the grain as you mentioned and avoid clumping knots at the same location along adjacent boards, you should wind up with stable and surprisingly strong platforms.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T05:55:48.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1391" CreationDate="2015-05-11T07:58:41.717" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is laminating the planks enough to counter the tendency to warp that plainsawn lumber &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically yes although there are no guarantees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;'Jointed' slabs are inherently stable, even when one or more of the individual boards are less than ideal, because of the construction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The long-grain glued faces are immensely strong and individually and together will work to keep the glue-up flat. And a rough rule of thumb is that the more glue joints there are the stronger the piece ends up. But for wide projects the more joints the more difficult the glue-up becomes, so it can be advisable to do it in sub-assemblies and then glueing these together to make up your final width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For maximum stability be aware of the radial and tangential direction of the grain and try to orient this uniformly for every piece. This is not always possible but it's a good thing to aim for as the more uniform you can make the seasonal expansion and contraction the better.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ijnQK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Grain direction and movement&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ideal is to orient the tangential grain such that the greatest expected movement is up and down, not side to side. Side note: this is one reason for the traditional preference for quarter-sawn wood, which tends to expand less across its width than plain-sawn or flat-sawn boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm concerned because of the poor quality of dimensional lumber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stock selection is often overlooked today but it's perhaps more important now than ever, especially with dimensional lumber which can be of poor uniformity, and is outright poor quality at times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best course would be to select your two-bys for straight grain and being free from knots and defects over a number of visits but again this is not always possible, given individual circumstances and sources of supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T07:58:41.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1390" CreationDate="2015-05-11T08:05:04.460" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is where you mortise right through the timber, and hammer wedges into the joint from the other side, in order to mechanically wedge the tenon into the joint. You still use glue as you normally would.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.craftsmanspace.com/knowledge/wedged-tenon-and-mortise-joint.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;wedged through tenon&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll include the images here for future reference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Outer wedged:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q7trO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;outer wedged through tenon&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inner wedged:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FN7Dx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;inner wedged through tenon&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're typically used when making doors, and are good because they form a good strong joint, and they look nice from the front (better than a mitre joint), however they're not all that nice to look at from the edges, and the timber of the mortised piece can shrink or swell around the tenoned end or the wedges and leave them sunken in or sticking proud after some time. You'll also need to play around a bit with the width of the tenon vs the mortise and the taper angle of the wedges etc. the first time you make one, to get it just right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that (as with just about any type of joint) there are many variations for different situations. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.craftsmanspace.com/knowledge/mortise-and-tenon-woodworking-joints.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;mortise tenon variations&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for many more examples. Probably the most important and commonly used variation is the &quot;haunched&quot; joint which is where you cut part of the tenon away, to space it away from a corner (e.g. the top or bottom of a door leaf):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pOxNC.gif&quot; alt=&quot;haunched wedged mortise and tenon joint&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastEditorUserId="272" LastEditDate="2015-05-11T12:32:46.647" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T12:32:46.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1388" CreationDate="2015-05-11T08:21:31.370" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is a 3-4 inch thick slab enough that it won't noticeably bow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Running the numbers through &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Sagulator&lt;/a&gt;, a 3&quot; slab of pine (eastern white) 12&quot; deep with a full 60&quot; span (note this would be only if the legs were right at the ends) and an imagined load of 300lb in the centre has an expected total sag of 0.01&quot;, which I think most people will agree is acceptable!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;how should I connect the legs? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many viable methods. The simplest would be butt joints obviously, which would actually be surprisingly strong with thick stock and proper grain orientation. Using epoxy, holes could be drilled at various points along both faces of the joint to provide 'keying' and extra glue surface area, adding greatly to an already strong joint (see Notes bottom). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next up with be a spline joint, the spline either ply or hardwood (with the grain oriented to go across the joint, not along it). The spline should be glued at centre only or entirely floating to allow for movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibly the best solution would be one of various kinds of housing joint, from through to blind, plain or dovetailed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/myZp9.png&quot; alt=&quot;Plain housing joints, through and blind&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should I just tell them to suck it up and reinforce the connections?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reinforcements don't have to be ugly (although many manufactured ones are of course) but perhaps most important: does it matter if they're invisible in day-to-day use? Some people will be bothered knowing they're there, others are more pragmatics and won't care because it doesn't spoil the aesthetics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Notes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If using epoxy joint faces should &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; be smooth like with conventional wood glues, rough is good (approximately the level of scratch pattern left by 60 grit paper is fine).  Also do not clamp tightly as should be done with other glues, a tight fit and gravity are sufficient for epoxy bonds to end up strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T08:21:31.370" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1368" CreationDate="2015-05-11T09:07:02.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because you've used ply this may be unfixable at this point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your ply is decent enough quality that the surface veneer is thick enough to permit you sanding (or scraping) back to bare wood, without sanding through to the next layer, then yes you can fix this. This would simultaneously remove the glue-saturated surface fibres along the joint so that you could get a good stain result when you go to refinish. Unfortunately it's doubtful the plywood does have a thick enough face ply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note: it's hard to tell for sure from the picture but this plywood may benefit from using pre-stain conditioner before staining (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1356/wood-conditioner-between-stain-layers/1359#1359&quot;&gt;previous Question&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For future projects, while wiping up glue squeeze-out is perhaps not the ideal method (wide range of opinions on what is the best method, see Note bottom) it can be done with greater care and attention to ensure good results. Some tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Always use warm water if possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cloth should often &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; be &quot;barely damp&quot; or &quot;just damp&quot; as per the instructions in so many guides, a little wetter than damp works better almost always. But you must clean up excess water as you go to prevent problems.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This method will nearly always cause raised grain. Expect it and plan ahead to deal with it after the glue has cured.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Always use a clean cloth and fold it periodically during wiping operations to expose fresh fabric with no glue already soaked into it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be methodical and thorough, do not expect that one wipe down the length of the joint will be enough. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For squeeze-out on inside corners an old toothbrush is a boon, it can help greatly in getting the last traces of glue from right at the joint line that the folded corner of a cloth often misses.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last but not least:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Expect the cleanup to take as long or longer than the joint took to glue and assemble. Having this kind of timeframe in your head at the outset will help ensure the job isn't rushed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;While wiping does sometimes lead to this sort of problem the methods that rely on letting the glue dry partially (to a sort of rubbery consistency, when it cab be picked off with the fingers) or fully (when it can be scraped, chiselled or even sanded off) are not perfect either. In both of these cases wood glue can penetrate into the surface wood fibres and removing the visible glue does not always get all of it, leading to exactly the same problem as you've experienced, albeit on a more limited scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another issue with scraping off glue that has fully dried is that it is bound strongly with the surface wood fibres, and on splinter-prone woods this will inevitably lead to tearout. It's not the ideal method for use on plywood either because of the thin surface veneers common to modern material (even where it is of good quality), which can be physically ripped free as you scrape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T09:07:02.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1397" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1400" CreationDate="2015-05-11T12:33:04.977" Score="6" ViewCount="12801" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I want to repair a kitchen utensil and want to be (totally) sure there is nothing poisonous, cancerous, allergenic, [fill in your adjective] in the glue. What should I choose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fish glue, rabbit glue, horse glue, [favourite animal] glue springs to mind but I doubt these stand kitchen use with warm water and normal abuse. Besides - if I don't happen to have a horse ripe for slaughter I have to buy the glue already bottled and then there might be preservatives in the glue to keep the, former, horse from developing a new skin of mold fur...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to be more complex than just a &quot;read on the bottle&quot;. There is some info on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/food-safe-glues/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wood whisperer&lt;/a&gt; and properly cured epoxy &lt;a href=&quot;http://toolmakingart.com/2009/12/04/food-safe-glue/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be safe&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastEditorUserId="140" LastEditDate="2015-09-16T14:48:45.267" LastActivityDate="2022-01-04T13:09:04.613" Title="What type(s) of glue can I use on wooden kitchen utensils and devices?" Tags="|safety|glue|toxicity|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1388" CreationDate="2015-05-11T13:54:59.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest problem you are going to have is racking.  With only 3 pieces you will have to joints and any side to side motion will put a lot of stress on those joints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting a back on it to absorb side to side motion would likely be enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is another joint the through mortise and tenon. You put the tenon all the way through the side, (in a wider bench you could have two of them with the first picture on each side.  the pin in the picture can also act as a vertical brace and an adornment.  The good news here is as it 'loosens' up with use you just take a rubber mallet and pound the shims back in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DXtb1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3&quot; board would be plenty of almost any type of wood, hardwoods like white oak or hickory would could probably get away with 1 1/2&quot; - 2&quot; thick.  which you could make your own by gluing thinner boards together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDT: the picture was added after this answer was given.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-05-13T20:43:38.197" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T20:43:38.197" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1390" CreationDate="2015-05-11T14:02:50.330" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding to WhatEvil posted, there is another type of wedged through tenon, more precisely referred to as a wedged tusk tenon or a tusk tenon. This one is primarily used for knockdown construction. It has many of the same strengths as other mortise and tenon joinery but doesn't use glue.  The &quot;pin&quot; (tusk) length also helps a little to prevent racking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes there is a double pin, where the pins are horizontal and you use one from each side to hold the joint in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7L9fx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wedged tusk tenon&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-05-11T15:08:01.360" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T15:08:01.360" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1397" CreationDate="2015-05-11T14:06:49.090" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;PVA glues such as Titebond are generally non-toxic and are considered safe enough to use in cutting boards, butcher blocks, and other food-safe applications. Be sure to read the label to confirm that the specific PVA glue you plan to use is, indeed, non-toxic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hide glue is non-toxic but as you mentioned, the glue bond can be broken with heat--a feature that is desirable in some applications. It may hold up well enough in the kitchen, but it probably wouldn't work well for a trivet or anything that you plan to wash in the dishwasher or which may be otherwise subjected to high heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For small repairs, CA glue (cyanoacrylate), more commonly considered superglue, is mildly toxic but can be considered non-toxic for most practical purposes (especially after curing). However, CA glue accelerators (used to make CA glue cure more quickly) are toxic. Again, read the label or MSDS sheet for the particular formulation you plan to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you pointed out in your question, epoxy is also often considered food-safe after it is fully-cured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-05-11T15:10:00.570" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T15:10:00.570" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1401" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1402" CreationDate="2015-05-11T16:03:42.237" Score="12" ViewCount="46025" Body="&lt;p&gt;I spent the weekend making a simple wine rack out of cedar for my mother as a gift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I drilled 1.5&quot; holes in a cedar 2x6 to make something like this:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/163y4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to keep the bottles inverted (keep the cork wet) you have to drill down at a 45 degree angle or so.  I used a 1.5&quot; bit to drill the holes but it was real sloppy and well it just didn't go great. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So.  What is the best way to drill a 1.5&quot;+ hole at an angle through a 2x6?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recommended tools/bits (not looking for a brand obviously) should be included unless there is an easy way to do this free hand...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="212" LastActivityDate="2020-09-26T21:50:59.517" Title="Best method for drilling a larger diameter hole at an angle" Tags="|tools|drilling|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1401" CreationDate="2015-05-11T16:19:41.893" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, I would use my drill press. The bed will tilt to any angle and then you just clamp the board to the bed.  You would need a piece of waste wood under the board so not to put the bit into the metal bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think Forstner bits would be the better idea for doing this though using a spade bit might be possible, if you lower it slow enough, I don't think I'd recommend it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;45 degrees is pretty steep for a hand held drill, but by starting it and slow tilting the drill to the correct angle while keeping the tip in the wood might give you something close to what you are looking for, but I'd stick with a drill press, much safer and more accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-05-11T16:44:40.430" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T16:44:40.430" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1403" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1407" CreationDate="2015-05-11T16:44:50.223" Score="11" ViewCount="543" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming one has the necessary tools to mill their own boards, what are some guidelines to consider when determining the thickness of boards to use in the various parts of a project?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some context, my wife has asked me to build a children's art table similar to this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2z9L9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Art Table&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I can probably guess at the various thicknesses used here from the picture, but I'm more interested in how I would arrive at this on my own.  At what point would I need to use 3/4&quot; boards over 1/2&quot; boards, etc.  My initial plan was to use a combination of Baltic birch plywood and maple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it helps answer the question, assume that cost and weight are factors but so is longevity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2019-02-03T08:02:41.493" LastActivityDate="2019-02-03T08:02:41.493" Title="What are some guidelines to consider when determining the thickness of boards to use?" Tags="|lumber|furniture|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1401" CreationDate="2015-05-11T16:49:56.957" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Similar to bowlturner's answer, my answer depends on having access to a drill press. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I suggest you use a few jigs. I've done similar projects, and the biggest problem is that a forstner bit tends to skate around when you're dealing with angles that steep. (There's nothing for the center point to grab into until you're 1/2 way through the piece.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The jig below gets clamped to your drill press table, and consists of three parts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;an angled wedge that sets the angle for the hole.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a backer board to keep tear-out to a minimum and to keep from drilling into your wedge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a wedge with a hole drilled in it that guides the forstner bit and keeps it from moving around.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you make the wedge? Simple- take a square block (or make a square block from two smaller pieces) and drill a hole with the forstner bit. Then take that piece to the band saw, turn it up on edge, and slice from one corner to the other, at an angle the same as you want to duplicate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slide the whole contraption together, clamp it securely to your drill press table, and drill away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9UCjW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;jig&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might have to clamp this to the edge of your drill press table, so that the workpiece can hang below the table for holes further up the workpiece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T16:49:56.957" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1401" CreationDate="2015-05-11T16:53:07.930" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;As bowlturner mentioned, a drill press with a Forstner bit is the first solution that comes to mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a drill press, another solution is to cut the corner off a block of scrap wood at a 45-degree angle. Use a brad point, auger, or twist bit to drill straight through the newly-cut end, and clamp it to your workpiece for each hole. If you've ever used a Kreg pocket hole jig, this is basically the same concept.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: after I clicked Submit to post my answer I noticed that TX Turner posted a somewhat similar solution for the drill press at about the same time as me. The guide block I'm suggesting is different in that it's a little easier to clamp since you're clamping flat pieces together instead of wedges. You can also use any flat backer board to prevent blowout, and you can easily register it against stop blocks on your workpiece for more precise hole placement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rvMbQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;45 degree drill guide block&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-05-11T17:55:45.983" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T17:55:45.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1406" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1412" CreationDate="2015-05-11T17:56:06.273" Score="7" ViewCount="994" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got an old axe that has a handle slipping down the head. This danger sign means the axe needs a new handle right away. Looking on Ebay the iron wedges that I'll need are about £4 for 4. This seems like a bit much for four tiny pieces of iron, and there's already one in the axe handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any harm in removing the old iron wedge from the old handle and re-using it? I like to re-use where I can, especially when it avoids waste or extra cost, and as I'll be making the handle myself the small amount of money for the new wedges seems like a lot. I don't want to do it if it might cause a safety issue though, and this will be my first re-handling of an axe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T01:01:13.627" Title="Is it OK to re-use an old iron wedge when handling an axe?" Tags="|hand-tools|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1403" CreationDate="2015-05-11T17:57:57.477" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sagulator&lt;/a&gt; is a good quick calculator you can use to work out the type and thickness of material for any shelf or tabletop spans. It also factors the type of material into the load-bearing capacity.  Consider the maximum weight any load-bearing horizontal member is likely to hold, and confirm that your design will be able to hold that much without too much deflection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also consider static loads (e.g., putting a heavy box on a shelf and leaving it there) vs. dynamic loads such as people dropping things on top of the structure, leaning on it, jumping on it, etc. Static loads can warp a shelf or table over time, as you probably know if you've ever stored heavy books on a particle board bookshelf. But on the other hand, dynamic loads can involve someone plopping heavily into a chair, in which case you need to be able to support significantly more than just the weight of the person--like when you first step onto a bathroom scale and the reading zooms way past your weight before settling on your actual weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tried and true method is to look at other pieces similar to those you want to build, and use those measurements as the starting point for your own piece. Aprons and other reinforcements can add a lot of strength. You can always beef up load-bearing components, but also remember to consider the relative sturdiness of the materials you're using vs. the materials someone else used. You can plug both materials into the Sagulator to see how they compare, given the same dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-07-30T16:32:35.283" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T16:32:35.283" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1406" CreationDate="2015-05-11T18:06:37.963" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the wedge hasn't had most of it snapped off, there's nothing stopping you from reusing it. However, it's often the case that the previous wedge was only driven in a couple of 'steps' and was cut down flush with the head. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's the case, you'd have to be perfect in your handle making, and know the wood perfectly, so as to size the head to fit the already cut wedge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3sQtA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;stepped wedge&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T18:06:37.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1406" CreationDate="2015-05-11T18:17:18.603" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always reuse my wedges when I haven't lost them.  Often it is the wedges that get loose, fall out and then I'm in need of more to fix either the ax or the maul.  But as long as they are large enough to work, they are good to be reused.  Even my black smithing teacher does it, though it takes him 5 minutes to make new ones...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T18:17:18.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1410" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1417" CreationDate="2015-05-11T21:01:20.527" Score="29" ViewCount="15651" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been under the impression that if you want to resaw lumber, the tool of choice is a bandsaw. I don't have a bandsaw, but I do have a contractor-style table saw. However, I have read elsewhere that it isn't safe to resaw lumber on a table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But looking through Mathias Wandel's site, I found a couple places where he resaws lumber using his table saw; like &lt;a href=&quot;http://woodgears.ca/box/small.html&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this considered safe? If so, what are the rules of resawing on a table saw? I presume I should treat it like a rip cut. Is there a minimum safe length of board, where going shorter would become unsafe? Are there other safety considerations specific to resawing I'm not aware of? (Obviously all the standard rules of table saw safety should still apply: Don't stand directly behind the board being cut, use push sticks, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2019-01-29T23:41:52.303" LastActivityDate="2021-04-17T12:57:13.223" Title="Is it safe to resaw on a table saw?" Tags="|table-saw|safety|resawing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1410" CreationDate="2015-05-11T21:09:24.503" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The danger when resawing on the table-saw lies in kickback due to the internal stresses which may cause the log to pinch the blade. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is less of a risk on a band-saw because if it does pinch then the log will be pulled down into the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T21:09:24.503" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1406" CreationDate="2015-05-11T21:17:30.920" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there any harm in removing the old iron wedge from the old handle and re-using it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None at all. In fact almost all hammer and axe re-handling guides will suggest you do your best to keep the previous wedge or wedges to use again. I've re-handled three old hammers so far, managed to reuse the wedges for all three even if badly rusted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming the old wedge(s) aren't damaged the only reason I can think of not to use them again is if you want to use a different style of wedge that you like the look of more (I'm thinking of ring wedges) or you believe is more secure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are any worries about how well the old wedge will hold, simple and very effective wedges can be made quite easily from mild steel if suitable stock material can be found, or from annealed tool steel with a little more effort. All that's required in terms of tools is a hacksaw, a mill file and a twist drill bit of the right diameter, along with a clamp or vice of some kind, to yield wedges of this type:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MvYWy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Drilled tapered wedge&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'll be making the handle myself &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Few tips then:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you haven't chosen your wood to use yet don't sweat it if you can't locate some hickory. Axe, hammer and maul handles were made in Europe for many centuries before hickory was ever heard of. Ash makes for very good handle stock.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select your piece of wood with care; it's said that a good piece of lesser wood makes a better handle than one made from a poor piece of a better wood and I believe this to be true.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Part of choosing a good piece is the grain orientation within the eye of the axe head. Endeavour to have the grain oriented the ideal way, that is: back to front, not across.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to limit grain run-out when shaping the length of the handle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the wood for both the haft and the wooden wedge are both quite dry, otherwise they will shrink at some point and the handle will come loose.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The wooden wedge goes back to front, the metal wedge goes across (splitting the wooden wedge). English oak makes a very good choice for wooden wedges if you have any.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T01:01:13.627" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T01:01:13.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1397" CreationDate="2015-05-11T21:28:37.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I want to repair a kitchen utensil and want to be (totally) sure there is nothing poisonous, cancerous, allergenous (is that a word?), [fill in your adjective] &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't be totally sure. To be more specific: &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; can't be totally sure. Individual responses to certain compounds or chemicals always trump general reassurances and the &quot;safe for direct food contact&quot; OK from a government agency such as the FDA in America.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, given the hidden chemicals within plastic and rubber-like materials in common usage in kitchens — for utensils, cutting boards and bakeware — all of which come into direct contact with food, it seems a little disproportionately cautious to be worried about a possible chemical leaching from a single glue joint, that doesn't directly contact food, on only a single utensil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Fish glue, rabbit glue, horse glue, [favourite animal] glue springs to mind but I doubt these stand kitchen use with warm water and normal abuse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the joint is made correctly any protein glue should be more than strong enough because any well-made glued joint is at least as strong as the surrounding wood. But all of these glues will weaken in the presence of both heat and moisture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T21:28:37.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1414" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1422" CreationDate="2015-05-12T00:38:24.350" Score="10" ViewCount="1924" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plywood is assembled, at least from I can see in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LrCt5kJwcyw&amp;amp;t=1m12s&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;, so the sheets are arranged perpendicular to each other so that the directional durability of the grain is complimented to give an overall unidirectional strength. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When paper is milled it has a grain direction. The paper is stronger along one direction than the other. You can tell this by both looking at the paper and bending it along its lines of symmetry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the manufacturing process of MDF give the resulting boards a grain direction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were to glue two MDF boards together would the orientation matter for stability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T12:53:48.217" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T12:53:48.217" Title="Does MDF have a grain direction?" Tags="|technique|mdf|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1414" CreationDate="2015-05-12T01:08:11.933" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does the manufacturing process of MDF give the resulting boards a grain direction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. MDF is made of short fibers that are randomly oriented. If you cut a circle out of MDF with a router, for example, you'll notice that the cut edge has the same appearance along the entire circumference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are manufactured products that are stronger in one direction than in the other, though. OSB, or &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oriented_strand_board&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;oriented strand board&lt;/a&gt;, is one example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T12:19:26.160" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T12:19:26.160" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1401" CreationDate="2015-05-12T01:38:27.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way I do this kind of thing, is easily, freehand  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you make all your marks, a bit low, then start off with a small bit (maybe 1/8&quot;) and predrill to about a quarter inch and punch all the marks with it so they have a starting point for a bigger bit.  It doesn't matter how deep really, if you go too deep, it will look bad.  Don't go deep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;then take your larger bit, and start it until it goes all the way in until the crown has gotten level with the surface, meaning, the hole is now as wide as its going to get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then while holding the drill still in motion, preferably a higher wood speed, start to tilt it.  It's that easy.  Have something, like a thin long nail, or something in one of the guide holes to have  guide angle template.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SO, each hole, after predrilling, &#xA;enlarge your hole fullsize, &#xA;keep motor running, &#xA;tilt drill to proper angle, &#xA;then go to depth.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;extraction is your best guess, either motor on, or motor off, but i think on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also probably the way the one in the picture was done, because its not exact..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but i did learn something new from the pros, with their guides they mentioned :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="586" LastEditorUserId="586" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T03:34:18.260" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T03:34:18.260" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1410" CreationDate="2015-05-12T02:15:57.250" Score="33" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is this considered safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be done safely. A tall fence, featherboards, and good push stick make a big difference. Not everyone takes the time to set all that up, though, so it's worth pointing out that (like any TS operation) it can also be done unsafely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If so, what are the rules of resawing on a table saw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Equipment:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tall fence:&lt;/strong&gt; The big difference between a normal rip cut and resawing is when you're making a regular rip cut, the wide part of the board bears on the surface of the saw. If you're going to stand a board on edge and cut it, you want a similar surface for the board to bear against. A normal TS fence is maybe 4&quot; tall; if you're trying to stabilize a 8&quot; board, you want something taller.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;featherboards:&lt;/strong&gt; Use them at least to keep the bottom edge of the board tight to the fence. If you can manage a tall featherboard to keep the board flat against your tall fence, even better. Remember that featherboards should be set up &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; leading edge of the blade -- you want to push the stock against the fence, not against the blade. Featherboards also add some kickback protection, which is important when making a non-through cut and you don't have the benefit of anti-kickback pawls. (A riving knife is great if your saw has one, but not every saw does.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;push stick:&lt;/strong&gt; Excellent for exerting control over the stock while keeping your fingers well away from the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;zero clearance insert:&lt;/strong&gt; If you're resawing, you're likely creating thin stock that could slip into the gap in a regular throat insert. A zero clearance insert will avoid that.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;infeed and outfeed:&lt;/strong&gt; Featherboards and a fence control the lateral motion of the stock. If you're working with long boards, you'll also want help controlling vertical motion. An outfeed table or rollers keep things safe by eliminating the need for you to reach over or behind the blade. Something on the infeed side, even just a single roller, lets you comfortably manage the board from a fixed position at the saw instead of trying to feed the first part of the board from several feet back.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;clean, sharp blade:&lt;/strong&gt; Heat is always a concern when ripping, but even more so when half the blade is spinning in an enclosed space. If your blade is dull and/or covered in pitch, it's going to run a lot hotter than a good clean and sharp blade. A blade lubricant made for saw blades helps too. A rip blade is the right tool for the job here.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Technique:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;straight, flat stock:&lt;/strong&gt; Don't try to resaw a board that curves in any direction; work only with straight, flat boards that are well dried.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;work in steps:&lt;/strong&gt; If you try to make a 3 1/2&quot; cut down the length of a board, you're probably going to run into trouble. Typical home shop saws will bog down trying to make such a deep cut in hardwood. Even if you have a saw with plenty of power, you run the risk of generating a lot of heat, possibly scorching the wood. Instead, take smaller bites, raising the blade after each pass; you'll be able to feed the stock faster, which means things stay cooler.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;cut from both sides:&lt;/strong&gt; Even if you're resawing stock that's narrower than the capacity of your saw, cut partway in from each side rather than trying to cut all the way from one side. This reduces the risk of pinching the blade as internal stresses in the wood are released. Just remember to always keep the same face of the board against the fence so that both cuts are the same distance from that face.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;don't cut through:&lt;/strong&gt; If you leave a little wood (maybe 1/4&quot;-1/2&quot;) in the middle rather than completing the cut, you'll be able to manage both halves of the board together through the entire operation. It's easy to finish the cut with a handsaw, and you're going to clean up the cut sides of each board with a planer (or a plane) anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;stay out of the line of fire:&lt;/strong&gt; Standard TS operation advice, but always worth repeating: don't stand in the way of a potential kickback.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main idea, as with any TS operation, is that you want to keep everything well controlled and keep your body parts out of harm's way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a minimum safe length of board, where going shorter would become unsafe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with ripping, I'd want the width of the stock to be a good deal less than the length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T03:20:27.547" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T03:20:27.547" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1401" CreationDate="2015-05-12T03:59:12.327" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is the best way to drill a 1.5&quot;+ hole at an angle through a 2x6?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For drilling such large holes at an angle, a sawtooth Forstner bit is the right tool for the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zfzx2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sawtooth forstner bit&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll want some means to guide the drill, though -- either a drill press, or a guide block as illustrated in some of the other answers, or an &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000JCIMEA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;angle drill guide&lt;/a&gt;. (Just know that everyone I know who bought an angle guide eventually switched up to a drill press. Angle guides are the push reel mowers of woodworking. If you're going to drill another 20 angled holes, get the drill press, even a bench top model.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T04:05:34.960" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T04:05:34.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1397" CreationDate="2015-05-12T05:42:03.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is also &lt;a href=&quot;http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanacrylate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cyanacrylate&lt;/a&gt; glue. It should be usable close to food since variants of it can be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.realfirstaid.co.uk/superglue/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;used with wounds&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T05:42:03.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1420" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1421" CreationDate="2015-05-12T06:32:47.597" Score="13" ViewCount="2999" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using Emmet's Good Stuff (poly gel varnish that you wipe on) as a finish on a walnut slab.  I've read a lot about finishing online, but am a little confused about &quot;leveling the finish.&quot;  As I understand it poly varnish requires some minor abrasion between coats for good adhesion.  The guy at my local woodworking store told me to use 320 to accomplish this as well as to knock out any streaks left by my application rag, dust nibs, etc in between coats.  I take it that this is not the &quot;leveling step&quot; described in sources like Flexner's &quot;Understanding Wood Finishing&quot; and is really more of a very light hit with 320 so as not to &quot;bust through&quot; the finish?  How many coats of finish should you put on before &quot;leveling&quot;?  As I understand it &quot;leveling&quot; means sanding (possibly wet sanding with ~320 grit) until the entire surface is at an even sheen, which presumably requires some amount of build up or else you're going through to the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flexner's book (page 156 -- &quot;Brushing Varnish&quot;) says: &quot;brush on the first coat....sand the surface lightly with 280-grit or finer...apply the next coat...sand the surface lightly with 320-grit or finer sterated sandpaper...If you're trying to achieve a perfect or near-perfect flat surface, sand out the brush marks after the next-to-last coat...use 320-or 400-grit wet/dry sandpaper lubricated with soap and water or mineral spirits.  The last coat will then level better.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does that mean that if you apply, for example, 5 coats of finish that you sand the first one with 280, the next one with 320, don't sand the next one at all, wet sand the 4th coat, and polish the final 5th coat?  If you apply 7 coats would that imply two more coats with no sanding/abrasion at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a related note his book also warns about ghosting or going through one layer to another.  If you're leveling a surface, which has brush marks in it are you not -- by definition -- taking off more material in some places than others, which means that you must be intentionally ghosting in certain spots?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After leveling I take it the next step is polishing/rubbing, which can be done with things like abralon discs and the like.  Is that typically done on the leveled surface or on yet another coat over the leveled surface?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="566" LastEditorUserId="566" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T06:55:20.640" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T08:40:38.520" Title="Leveling a finish/finishing the finish" Tags="|technique|finishing|varnish|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1420" CreationDate="2015-05-12T08:40:38.520" Score="13" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As I understand it poly varnish requires some minor abrasion between coats for good adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nope. You'll read this online &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; (and in some books, and what's worse even in the instructions for some products) but it is completely untrue. The only reason to sand between coats is if you need to 'de-nib', or remove minor surface blemishes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important word above is IF. Where poly is spray-applied to a high standard for example in a dedicated spraying booth with filtered air — such as in many commercial operations — there would never be any sanding between the coats of poly and they don't have problems with poor adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The guy at my local woodworking store told me to use 320 to accomplish this as well as to knock out any streaks left by my application rag, dust nibs, etc in between coats. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;320 may be a tad high but it is a suitable grit for de-nibbing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is some individual opinion and personal preference for the grit(s) to use for sanding between coats. Many woodworkers progress from 240 through to perhaps 400 as they sand the first and then progressive coats. There is likely some 'voodoo' or personal mythology here, given the nature of varnish and the fine scratches that even the coarsest of these grist will leave; for certain applications there is probably no discernible difference to de-nibbing with 240 or 400. Except that the 400 will clog faster and work more slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As I understand it &quot;leveling&quot; means sanding (possibly wet sanding with ~320 grit) until the entire surface is at an even sheen, which presumably requires some amount of build up or else you're going through to the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dead on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all guides to wood finishing will say this but flattening should always or nearly always take place just once, and as the final step after all the finish is down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can take a lesson from the way that finish is rubbed down on high-end cars here. There they &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; sand at the end, without exception unless something goes wrong. In woodworking one of the most common similar-looking finishes is on pianos, and there too they wet-sand only at the end (followed by buffing). The standards for flat and smooth in both cases here are generally far higher than required by most woodworkers, so these perfectly illustrate that sanding between coats is unnecessary to achieving a great result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;On a related note his book also warns about ghosting or going through one layer to another. If you're leveling a surface, which has brush marks in it are you not -- by definition -- taking off more material in some places than others, which means that you must be intentionally ghosting in certain spots? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is more of a problem with certain finishes and not with others where the multiple coats are more cohesive. And yes you're right, it is practically inevitable that it will occur to some degree or another. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After leveling I take it the next step is polishing/rubbing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Correct. And yes this is usually on the levelled surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is rarely any point to buffing or polishing an as-applied varnish layer because it is inherently glossy enough. The polishing is to regain the gloss lost by the sanding done during flattening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The converse — rubbing down a final coat of varnish to &lt;em&gt;reduce&lt;/em&gt; sheen — is frequently done however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T08:40:38.520" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1414" CreationDate="2015-05-12T09:06:02.547" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does the manufacturing process of MDF give the resulting boards a grain direction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes and no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wood fibres in MDF are said to be randomly oriented, and it is plainly visible if you study the surface that they are random. However, during manufacture MDF is laid down in a continuous horizontal sheet and then pressed down to thickness which does leave a sort of grain-like structure or stratification between the faces. This leads to the well-known tendency of MDF to split when screws are driven in at the edge, while if driven through the face there is far less tendency towards splitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I was to have two boards of MDF glued together would the orientation matter for stability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, stability is entirely uniform as far as this goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T09:06:02.547" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1423" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1431" CreationDate="2015-05-12T15:53:22.873" Score="9" ViewCount="16185" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is more out of curiosity. I came across the term &lt;code&gt;sabre saw&lt;/code&gt; and tried to figure out what it was. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Searching the internet turned up results for both a jigsaw:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hEwOK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sabre saw / jig saw?&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...and a reciprocating saw:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/esisS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sabre saw / reciprocating saw?&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leads me to wonder if &lt;em&gt;sabre&lt;/em&gt; is a descriptive word to describe a reciprocating blade mechanism found in both jig saws and reciprocating saws. Or is it another type of saw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-05-14T11:44:39.713" LastActivityDate="2017-12-02T16:39:52.127" Title="What is the difference between a sabre saw and a jig saw" Tags="|tools|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1423" CreationDate="2015-05-12T16:01:20.230" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, a Sabre Saw is a hand held tool, like the one in your top picture.  Only one end of the blade is supported by the tool.  This can cause cuts to vary in angle when you encounter areas of differing density (like a knot).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A jig saw in normally a bench top tool that has the blade secured at both ends (sometimes called a scroll saw).  The term &quot;jig saw&quot; is sometimes used interchangeably for both tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The saw in your second picture is a reciprocating saw (sometimes called by the brand-name &quot;Sawzall&quot;) and is normally used for very rough cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="447" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T16:01:20.230" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1423" CreationDate="2015-05-12T16:27:02.483" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's another one of those dastardly terminology issues - I think woodworkers are particularly prone to calling different things the same thing, and the same thing different things depending on who you ask!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would disagree with CharlieHorse's answer and call the top pictured saw a handheld jigsaw, and the bottom pictured saw a sabre saw or reciprocating saw. Again in reality they are both types of reciprocating saw, and the term &quot;jigsaw&quot; can also refer to a fixed/bench-mounted version of the same thing as the handheld one shown above. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my own definition I would say that a jigsaw has a shallow blade, and is meant for doing fine, controlled/intricate work generally to thin boards (like a jigsaw puzzle!) whereas a sabre-saw has a deeper blade and is particularly suited for doing fast but rough cuts and is of particular use for demolition when removing old windows or other timbers. Both sabre-saws and jigsaws can also be fitted with metal-cutting and other types of blades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A further distinction is that what I call a handheld jigsaw is always meant to be used with the large flat base guide on flat material, whereas with the sabre saw it's often used as a quick &quot;cut-off&quot; saw without relying much on the guide, which is usually smaller and may be mounted non-rigidly so that you can easily follow contoured material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia currently claims that the top pictured saw may also be called a sabre saw, but I've personally never heard of it being referred to anything other than a (handheld) jigsaw. To be clear, &quot;reciprocating saw&quot; would be (in my mind) the general term for any type of saw where the blade moves back and forth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I've done some research on Makita's, Ryobi's, Black and Decker's, and Bosch's websites (all large power tool manufacturers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pizr8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;saws&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So they would tend to agree that the top is a jigsaw and the other one is a reciprocating saw, though I'd still contend that a &quot;reciprocating saw&quot; is a valid term for any kind of saw where the blade moves back and forth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastEditorUserId="272" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T17:32:28.173" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T17:32:28.173" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1423" CreationDate="2015-05-12T16:29:58.790" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently Saber Saw and Jigsaw refer to the same tool.  My Dad always called the top item a Saber Saw.  Up through the 1980's, the hand held tool was referred to as a Saber Saw in Popular Mechanics, but was called a Jigsaw by the manufacturers.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The name Jigsaw predates hand held tools by about 100 years.  It then referred to what we now call a scroll saw.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pQmKK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Scroll Saw&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This 1977 quote sums it up perfectly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;“For one thing, with a scroll saw (sometimes called a jigsaw) you will be able to do all the curved and intricate sawing you would like to be able to do with a saber saw (sometimes also called a jigsaw), but can’t.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an entire article on the history of these names found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.props.eric-hart.com/features/saber-saw-vs-jig-saw/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The item on the bottom photo, often known by the tradename Sawzall, was invented by Milwaukee Tool Company in 1951 as the first electric hacksaw. Generally known as reciprocating saws, they are typically used for rough cuts and demolition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T16:29:58.790" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1427" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1428" CreationDate="2015-05-12T17:34:47.630" Score="6" ViewCount="313" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made a small jewelry box from steamed black walnut for my significant other. My original idea was to sand it down to 400 grit and finish with just oil (which I did, with two coats of IKEA &quot;Skydd&quot; mineral oil), but I liked the high gloss so much I decided to give a try to lacquer... and things went downhill from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thin coat of lacquer was absorved almost entirely by the end grain. Also, the lacquer was taking days get dry enough to touch (an alkyd resin-based lacquer premixed with naphtha as solvent, supposed to dry fully in 24 hours). At this point, I sort of panicked and applied 4 more &lt;em&gt;generous&lt;/em&gt; coats using a brush in quick succession, barely waiting 48 hours between coats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now it's been a full week since the last coat was applied and the lacquer is still rubbery to touch, nowhere near hard enough for sanding. I only have a week or so left before the event the box was made for and given the progress so far, I doubt it will fully dry (but then it's my first time with lacquer, so I don't know).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas how can I save this project? I'm OK with removing the lacquer with paint thinner, but I'm not sure if that will damage the wood. Also, where did I go wrong with the finishing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="335" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T17:41:54.440" Title="Lacquer dries very slowly" Tags="|technique|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1427" CreationDate="2015-05-12T17:41:54.440" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is that the oil is acting as thinner that prevents the lacquer from catalyzing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shellac can be used as an intermediate layer between oil and lacquer (be sure to use dewaxed shellac)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, you may be best off to just remove any finish and start over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T17:41:54.440" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1304" CreationDate="2015-05-12T18:35:35.923" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The American Association of Woodturners (AAW) web site has &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodturner.org/?page=Safety&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;an excellent page on safety&lt;/a&gt; with a long list of points. Read that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The items on the accepted answer are a good start, but I'd add a few more:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Keep fingers away from the front of the tool rest. You wouldn't want to get pinched between the tool rest and the workpiece.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't wear gloves.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Stand to the side when turning the lathe on. If the workpiece is going to fly off the lathe, it'll usually happen when starting.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Observers should always stand to the side or (better) behind a shield.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A full face shield is better than safety glasses.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T18:35:35.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1373" CreationDate="2015-05-12T18:51:59.267" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;From what I've heard it's one of the more difficult finishes to achieve. Why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's a lot like saying that spray paint is one of the more difficult finishes to achieve. If you're finishing a Rolls Royce with half a dozen coats and lots of polishing, sure. But you can also just spray on a coat or two and call it a day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it is with shellac. If you want the deep, rich, glossy finish created by &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_polish&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;French polishing&lt;/a&gt;, there a lot of work and more than a little skill involved. That would be appropriate for fine furniture or a musical instrument. But if you just want a good looking, non-toxic finish that's easy to repair for, say, a baby crib, you can wipe on a coat or two of shellac and do a little sanding with very fine paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T18:51:59.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1423" CreationDate="2015-05-12T19:06:40.997" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Questions like this will lead to contradictory answers. There are some main points I would like to make to aid in everyone's answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Experience&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Experience plays this role very well. As you are introduced to tools you will typically accept what you are being taught. If my dad handed me a jigsaw and called it a &lt;em&gt;Lemon Mutilator&lt;/em&gt; that is what I would have called it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Location&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had mentioned this in comments but your region plays a big part in this. A simple example would be: trunk and boot. They are the same thing but it depends which word you use in which region (US and UK respectively).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Time&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Time also changes things. I had a question about quarter-sawn lumber and the meaning of that term meant something different decades ago. If you asked wood workers of different generations what a piece of quarter-sawn lumber was they could give you two different answers that are both right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;The &amp;quot;Sabre&amp;quot; Saw&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a theory that both of the saws you have pictures are the spiritual ancestors of the &amp;quot;sabre saw&amp;quot;. As the tools evolved into their respective uses, intricate and rough, the naming might have become convoluted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to come to &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/1424/128&quot;&gt;CharlieHorse&lt;/a&gt;'s defense at this point. I found an old advertisement for a Weller Sabre Saw. Its the tool Mr. Mantle is holding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VUTtN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Old Advert&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look it is making intricate cuts much like a jigsaw would. Modern jigsaws don't have the same design as they do in that picture. Those changes might have driven the name change as well (&lt;strong&gt;Warning&lt;/strong&gt;: This sentence contains speculation). Mostly trying to show that time changes things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is another one just to show that its not just one manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GXhv9.png&quot; alt=&quot;Another Ad&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;At the End of the Day&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have always seen the tool above, in your question, as a jigsaw and the other a reciprocating saw. Until today I have never even heard the phrase Sabre Saw. If it gives context I am 33 at the time of writing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T13:49:55.967" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1432" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1434" CreationDate="2015-05-12T20:51:27.987" Score="5" ViewCount="947" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am eagerly awaiting the arrival of my new tapping set from Beall and one of the uses I was thinking about was creating a mallet--turn a head and then tap a hole and screw in a wooden handle (I have a couple other similar projects on the docket as well).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now other than not being able to easily remove the handle (should I break it or want a different one), is there any other reason not to do it?  Even on the flip side, are there very good reasons to do it? (I'm thinking it won't come loose when in use!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-05-13T05:51:14.640" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T21:26:04.410" Title="Is there a reason not to glue a wooden bolt into its threads?" Tags="|joinery|glue|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1432" CreationDate="2015-05-12T21:01:11.080" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I were to glue it, I would just make a standard taper joint with a wedge in the end - much simpler.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gluing it would give you the strength of a mechanical connection with the permanence of glue, but you could get very nearly the same strength by just threading it, and basically draw boring the head in.  Once the handle is threaded on, drill a hole through the head, into and through the screws, and put in a screw or dowel to hold it in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T21:01:11.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1432" CreationDate="2015-05-12T21:02:59.160" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;is there any other reason not to do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want it glued, there's no problem with gluing it. But the whole point of using threads instead of glue or a wedged through tenon is that you can disassemble a threaded connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;are there very good reasons to do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two, that I can think of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Although threads cut in wood are plenty strong for many uses, they &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; cut across the grain and can break. If the threads are at all loose, the force of a mallet blow might be applied to just a part of the threads and cause them to break. Glue could help support the threads and spread the force of the blow more evenly.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If your mallet handle isn't round, then you'll want it to maintain a particular orientation relative to the head. It'd be hard to thread the handle so that it bottoms out with the handle in exactly the right position, so you'd &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; glue or some other means of keeping the handle oriented correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2015-05-13T21:26:04.410" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T21:26:04.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1432" CreationDate="2015-05-12T21:07:11.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I concur with LeeG's answer. Put the whole thing through and use another piece of wood through the thread as a stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reusable Handle&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't seal the handle in the head then you could use it with multiple heads if you so desired. If you wanted to make the handle something more that just stick with threads then not glue would be preferential. Say if you were to turn one and put a grip on it? Then you wouldn't need to make a bunch. Or if your head broke you can reuse the handle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Glue &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; weaken&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this would take time, actually using the mallet, could weaken the glue joint. I have seen this happen with shop brooms. Since you are threading it I would see this process taking a while but I suspect it will happen. Using a stop like a piece of dowel wouldn't be a bad idea. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps you could do both. Might be overkill for just a mallet though. I guess I'm suggesting it is wasted effort to glue it. If the glue did break the seal the mallet could move while you are using it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another useful point would be if you get tapping happy then you could use the same handle for multiple tools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mine is just an old croquet mallet that I adjust periodically with wedges as it moves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-05-13T12:25:34.420" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T12:25:34.420" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1436" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1447" CreationDate="2015-05-12T22:12:30.380" Score="12" ViewCount="3598" Body="&lt;p&gt;My cousin's fiancee is interested in making a bench similar to this picture: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LvVKq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This appears to be reclaimed lumber with years of weathering, but it's very smooth, which seems like it would be hard to accomplish with reclaimed lumber without milling the pieces to be even. &lt;em&gt;Is it possible to get this look by artificially distressing lumber and if so how would this be accomplished?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="235" LastEditDate="2015-05-13T14:25:43.110" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T03:55:59.530" Title="Is it possible to distress lumber to look &quot;reclaimed?&quot;" Tags="|finishing|reclaimed-wood|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1436" CreationDate="2015-05-13T04:27:22.583" Score="4" Body="&lt;h1&gt;&lt;em&gt;Super Basic&lt;/em&gt; Distressing&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know you can distress wood. Beating it with a chain, scratching will tools etc. Then lazily applying a dark uneven stain and then a finish. That is easy and and very stress relieving (the chain part). You, on the other hand, are trying to get that reclaimed lumber look. If you didn't show the picture I would have expanded on my first couple of sentences but I feel that you have an uphill battle duplicating what you have for that bench. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;My Amateur Analysis&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wherever those boards came from they were not in that original orientation obviously. The aging/distress pattern looks different on each of the boards. Trying to replicate that where each board would have its individual look would need to be done &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; assembly. The white patches are from where the boards use to be joined together so those gaps did not see much of the elements. That is easier to duplicate but it is more than just not staining a section. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For it to be as smooth as it is I suspect that it did not have direct contact with rain. Most of the really good/sought after reclaimed wood like barn board is incredibly weather with numerous deep recesses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MCTMq.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think the wood in the picture was subjected to that. Following that though, without seeing a close up, I would guess that the wood is &lt;em&gt;fairly&lt;/em&gt; smooth. If it was relativity uniform to begin with joining the boards for the actual bench might have been a cinch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the board were not of the exact same width you could hide the imperfections on the underside. however looking at the left inside &quot;leg&quot; that does not appear to be the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way a simple finish would have sealed in potential splinters. There &lt;em&gt;looks&lt;/em&gt; to be a little sheen in that photo. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;My Point&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not trying to be pessimistic, because I hope someone has a better answer, but there is a reason why large pieces of reclaimed wood, like in the picture, are a pricey commodity. It's hard to replicate what mother nature takes years to do. Try getting actual barn board with paying a fortune for it. There is nothing like the real thing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, like I mentioned in the first paragraph, I am not saying distressing is a waste of effort. Just suggesting replicating what you have in the photo with &lt;em&gt;new&lt;/em&gt; wood seems implausible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Cheating to get the look&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are willing to entertain a simpler solution then there is always the vinegar and steel trick. One of many instructions can come from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nuioNBz0mII&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mix an amount of steel wool or rusty nails into a measured amount of vinegar. Different vinegars (white, apple etc.) will have different results. I have also seen some people use coffee grounds. Leave this mixture in a container for several days. The longer you leave it the more concentrated solution you will get. This is a matter of experimentation.  After that time you can mix in some water that is about the same amount as the added vinegar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You now have a solution that can give wood an aged look. If the wood is already cleaned and joined then you get the aged look with smooth wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Caveat&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do this then you need to watch for inconsistencies between coats and applications. Making this mixture will give slightly different results every time so the colour might not match between concoctions. It might be important to make as much as you can the first time to give your project an single overall look. Assuming that is desired.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will also react differently across different woods. Again... EXPERIMENT!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-05-14T00:02:55.250" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T00:02:55.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1432" CreationDate="2015-05-13T04:47:40.727" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Caleb mentioned, the entire point of using a threaded joint is to make it easy to disassemble--typically to replace a part or to break something down for storage. If you want a permanent connection, you're wasting time, effort, and possibly money (if you had to buy the tap specifically for this project) by threading and then permanently gluing the connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to be able to disassemble the joint later but want to lock the threads in place in the meantime you can use hide glue. When you need to disassemble the joint in the future, you can simply heat up the joint and unscrew it. But then again, you could do the same with a plain old mortise and tenon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...on the flip side, are there very good reasons to [glue a wooden bolt into its threads]?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if making a threaded wooden rod (e.g., for a vise) that will only ever need to be detached at one end, or perhaps will never need to be detached.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if you want to get practice tapping threads but you want to knock out a few projects at the same time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if you have a design that uses threads as visual elements but which is never supposed to be dismantled (e.g., maybe some wooden threaded rods used as through cross-bracing between legs on a stool.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if it comes unscrewed when you don't want it to, and you've decided you never want it to come unscrewed again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T04:47:40.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1432" CreationDate="2015-05-13T07:47:07.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Now other than not being able to easily remove the handle (should I break it or want a different one), is there any other reason not to do it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that losing the ability to easily re-handle is the main reason not to do it. I don't imagine you'll have any problems with a threaded handle staying tight in use without any glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Even on the flip side, are there very good reasons to do it? (I'm thinking it won't come loose when in use!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be honest I can't think of one! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want one extra bit of security, &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; threading you can dry out the end of the handle stock by placing near a heat source for a couple of hours, then thread and screw home. As the handle's moisture content comes into equilibrium it will swell, locking it even more firmly in place. At a guess for most woods this is likely to result in the fixture becoming permanent; a thorough waxing of the threads might prevent this but no way to be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2015-05-13T17:16:12.573" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T17:16:12.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1440" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1445" CreationDate="2015-05-13T12:29:57.820" Score="19" ViewCount="22186" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have purchased wood in order to make some basic furniture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One of these will be placed &lt;strong&gt;outside&lt;/strong&gt; (simple table),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One inside the bathroom, (basic chest of drawers)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And another in the hall way (shoe rack). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've already done some work, ie, cutting the wood to size, preparing parts for joining the pieces etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently I'm in the process of trying to find what materials I will need to finish the wood (and learn how to) for each of these items I'm building.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My question is:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When do I need to &quot;treat&quot; / finish the wood, ie, sand and apply these coatings?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is it before I join the pieces, or after once everything is assembled?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="598" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-05-13T19:01:56.847" LastActivityDate="2018-01-11T04:48:26.283" Title="At what stage of basic furniture making should I &quot;finish&quot; the wood?" Tags="|finishing|furniture|assembly|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1440" CreationDate="2015-05-13T12:52:18.787" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a reason it is called 'finishing' it is the last step to complete or 'finish' your project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanding can be done at different stages, usually you won't sand a piece before you glue a flat surface together.  So if you are gluing a table top you will want to glue all the pieces together first, then sand them all, because often you will need to sand after to make all the joints flat and even.  However, sanding the rails under the table before you attach them is a good idea because it is easier to do it before you get more corners to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now where you might put a finish on before final assembly is when item in question breaks down and the parts are often separate.  Say the leaves from a dining table or the legs that are attached by bolts.  But anything that will be permanently put together should have the finishing last.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T12:52:18.787" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1440" CreationDate="2015-05-13T12:52:55.960" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is usually &quot;it depends.&quot;  In some cases where you might need an even finish (like in a waterproofing situation) you might want to finish the pieces before final assembly.  I'd argue that for most situations, I wait until the end of the project to finish it, except if visible surfaces would be hard to finish when it is assembled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T12:52:55.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1440" CreationDate="2015-05-13T13:13:52.247" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can apply finish at whatever time is easiest to do so.  Sometimes you will want to sand and finish one side of a board before final assembly, if it would be difficult to reach afterwards.  The insides of small boxes are much easier to sand as flat boards than after they are assembled.  You do have to take more care in handling already finished boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you choose to apply a finish prior to glue up, remember to tape off the area of the joint that will receive the glue - glue will not bond well to a finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T13:13:52.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1423" CreationDate="2015-05-13T13:46:44.853" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is somewhat wrong use of the name for basically the same tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Originally what you would call a 'Jig'Saw and 'Sabre'Saw were the same tool fitted with different kind of blades, where 'Jig' simply referred to the fact that blade was going in an  (up/down) or (in/out) motion instead of rotating or like with a bend-saw in continuous one way motion.  thus you could have a 'Jig'Saw with a normal thin/fine toothed blade for fine cut works and a 'Sabre'Saw with a thicker more rough toothed blade for fast rough jobs and metal cutting.&#xA;Hence the name identified the specific job you are doing. it could be the same tool just fitted with different blade suited for the job at hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="599" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-05-13T14:24:28.497" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T14:24:28.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1440" CreationDate="2015-05-13T13:48:25.717" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend you apply any finishing products before final assembly, but after any gluing or other permanent assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surfaces that are going to be glued together don't need (and shouldn't have) finish as this will weaken the bond, and the glue itself and adjoining wood should protect the wood (choose a suitable glue for the environment).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surfaces that will never be taken apart but will not be glued (some joinery, for instance) probably don't need finishing prior to joining them. This is a gray area, and will depend on the joint. The primary goal is that exposed wood that isn't intentionally exposed will be protected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, other parts that are fit together using other fastening methods should be finished before assembly.  Even small spaces admit moist air, and those spaces may expand or contract based on humidity, so may admit water or other environmental contaminants.  Without protection on the interior facing pieces of the wood you risk visible damage over time in some environments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finishing as a step to preserve the wood in the environment it is going to be placed should help guide your decision as to when to finish.  If you do it solely for looks, you may be happy with the results if you perform it after assembly, but time may show that protection should have been your goal during finishing, and not just looks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="235" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T13:48:25.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1436" CreationDate="2015-05-13T17:19:20.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are stains and finishes mean to simulate weathering. A simple method, though, is using a common acid and mineral solution, such as vinegar and steel wool, to wash the board.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtube.com/watch?v=nuioNBz0mII&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here's a video of the process&lt;/a&gt;. Of course a stronger acid will deepen the effect, and you can use a paint and wipe method to simulate mineral deposits (what rain leaves behind) you might find in real weathered wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This bench doesn't show the deep ridging you'd find in weathered wood, but if you want that, careful use of a pressure washer will wear the softer wood while leaving ridges behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="235" LastEditorUserId="11" LastEditDate="2015-05-14T01:58:48.667" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T01:58:48.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1436" CreationDate="2015-05-13T18:33:50.997" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it possible to get this look by artificially distressing lumber and if so how would this be accomplished?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, and depending on exactly the character you're after it can actually be quite straightforward, although involved. What I mean is the techniques are individually very simple but there may be quite a number of them used in sequence (and the sequence is very important — changing it can dramatically change the effect, and this is something you may want to do deliberately for variety).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Texture&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting with wood that is not smoothly milled already can be very advantageous here, but it's possible to add certain textures to wood that is completely smooth, e.g. by sanding, brushing with a wire brush, tapping with wire brushes and generally bashing the wood to make it look old. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Species of wood matters here. Softwoods, which their notable hardness difference between earlywood and latewood, respond in a specific way to some abrasion techniques and that look is not really replicable using a smooth-grained hardwood. So to a degree the species you can use may be dictated by the exact look you're aiming to replicate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Marks from a mill's circular saw blade can also be mimicked using the tablesaw or a circular saw but there is great potential for personal injury, anyone taking that on does so at their own risk. Careful sanding with coarse paper (60 grit or lower) is a much more advisable method to simulate this texture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Colour&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On to the colouring, just focussing on the overall look it's obviously fairly grey. So getting the wood grey by some means is the first thing to aim for. This can be done using nothing more sophisticated than a wash of heavily thinned paint, either oil-based (including artists' oil paints) or waterbase (including craft acrylics). The colouring possible with both types of paint is very similar, but because of their differences certain specific variations are easier or faster in one or the other, e.g. taking advantage of the paint being wet for a long time for easy blending or feathering, or relying on a paint's fast drying to overlay effects quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also a number of commercial stains specifically intended to give these sorts of colours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to introducing a colour to the wood the wood can itself be coloured, for example using the vinegar + steel technique very commonly seen online for artificially ageing wood (see Note bottom for more on this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a base grey colour is achieved a second slightly different colour can be applied in more than one way to introduce some variation (note: because wood is inherently variable some variation will occur naturally anyway). Examples of how you might apply this 'character' paint layer, using paint that has been heavily thinned to a creamy or milky consistency:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brushed liberally over the wood, allowed to soak in for a short while then a damp cloth is wiped over the surface in the direction of the grain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Same as the above except that the wiping is done at an angle. This can simulate saw marks to a degree.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Either of the above except that a dry cloth is used. This will give a subtly different effect, usually more hard-edged.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The dilute paint is applied by a foam roller or by dabbing with a sponge and is allowed to dry, then worn down selectively with either a nylon mesh adhesive (e.g. Scotchbrite), steel wool or fine abrasive paper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to these sorts of techniques the wood prepared with the base colouring can be used both as-is or sealed, with a dilute coating of waterbase poly, blonde shellac or even thinned PVA glue. In all cases the seal coat should be allowed to dry thoroughly (overnight ideally) before progressing to the next step. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; the vinegar + steel wool technique is often poorly described in online guides. To begin with steel wool is not the only thing that can be used, old rusty nails or really any small pieces of iron or steel will work here as long as enough time is given for the vinegar to react with the metal. What this is doing is creating iron acetate, which is what then reacts chemically in the surface wood fibres to produce colour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This reaction is with tannins in the wood, which some species (notably oak) are high in and give the most pronounced effect usually. This creates iron tannate which is black so the more tannic acid present in the wood the darker the colour. Obviously testing is important with this to gauge effect! If the colour achieved is a little darker than desired a portion of the vinegar solution can be diluted with water and tried again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where you're using a species that does not naturally contain much or any tannic acid (particularly softwoods) it can be introduced to the surface of the wood. While tannic acid can be bought online to make a very concentrated tannic acid solution, a strongly brewed tea can work quite well. And for the true DIY devotees a 'tannin tea' can be made using oak leaves, bark and particularly oak galls if you can find any&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T18:33:50.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1448" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1457" CreationDate="2015-05-13T19:43:49.770" Score="13" ViewCount="24450" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have, what I'm sure is, a job site table saw and am having difficulty cutting a straight line in plywood. Since my saw table is smaller than to wood I cannot use a fence to guide me. Currently I measure with a tape and try to follow the line. Pushing that board makes it easy to make little mistakes that are easily seen when I look down the cut board but not while I'm cutting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another related issue is that when I get towards the end of the cut the weight of the board on the other side of the table prevents me from pushing and I end burning the end of the cut and stopping prematurely before I hurt myself. I would then turn the almost cut board around to finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While that does work my lines are not straight. What technique could I employ to help me cut straight lines in my plywood or any board for that matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2015-05-14T10:47:35.337" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T17:53:49.500" Title="How can I cut plywood in a straight line on a smaller table saw freehand?" Tags="|technique|safety|table-saw|cutting|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1448" CreationDate="2015-05-13T19:58:20.590" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to start with either a friend or an extension on the far side of the table to hold the far piece.  There are different things you can use. The easiest is to buy 1 or two table saw roller stands.  They are adjustable to meet the height of your saw so you don't have to try to hold the wood down to cut those last couple inches.  building/finding a table of the same height and putting it behind the saw would work in a similar fashion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cutting it in a straight line, the simplest is lots of practice! :).  Since I am guessing that paying lots to get a decent sized saw or getting a table extender are out of the question (I want an extender but ~$800!)  so...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a router with a straight bit, try and cut you pieces outside the line then use the the router, a guide board clamped down and a straight bit to give it a nice clean straight cut to the line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having a circular saw (also commonly called a Skil saw) and saw horses would actually be my recommended tool over a contractors saw for sheet material. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last but certainly not least, a second person.  They can help guide from the far side of the saw until you get it started, then they just help hold as you guide and push.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there is how straight are you looking for?  even a regular table saw with a fence, still needs practice cutting straight on large pieces with one person, one corner or the other tends to want to move the wrong way, making a wavy line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually the Last one is to have the big cuts made on your material at Home Depot or where ever you buy it.  I think home depot gives 1 or 2 cuts for free. then a cheap fee for more.  So cut the big ones down, and do the smaller cuts at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-05-14T16:48:49.110" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T16:48:49.110" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1451" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1452" CreationDate="2015-05-13T21:25:15.557" Score="19" ViewCount="18978" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on a large piece of furniture that cannot fit into my home fully assembled.  I must carry the smaller pieces through the door and assemble the item in its final resting place.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What type of joint is most appropriate for portions of furniture that are likely to be screwed and unscrewed in order to move it around?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to build something like this project: &lt;a href=&quot;http://ana-white.com/2014/10/free_plans/2x2-indoor-playhouse-frame&quot;&gt;http://ana-white.com/2014/10/free_plans/2x2-indoor-playhouse-frame&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I want to build it so that I can assemble and dissemble it pretty easy to move it around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="601" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-01-04T14:22:08.187" LastActivityDate="2023-12-12T10:01:40.487" Title="What type of joint should I use for building a piece of furniture that will be assembled and disassembled?" Tags="|joinery|furniture|knockdown|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1451" CreationDate="2015-05-13T21:53:39.923" Score="19" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What type of joint is most appropriate for portions of furniture that are likely to be screwed and unscrewed in order to move it around?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's an entire category of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/hardware/fasteners/knock-down-hardware&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;knock down hardware&lt;/a&gt; that's meant to let you easily assemble and disassemble furniture. You've probably used some of it when assembling pieces from stores like IKEA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also some woodworking joints that are meant to make furniture easy to disassemble. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/hand-tool-techniques-tusk-tenons/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;tusk tenon joint&lt;/a&gt; is often used to secure the trestle on a trestle table, and also the rails on a workbench. It uses a through tenon secured with a wedge.&#xA;Another one is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wwgoa.com/article/making-sliding-dovetails/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;sliding dovetail joint&lt;/a&gt;, which can be used to hold shelves or to fit cases together but still allow them to be removed later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't necessarily need fancy hardware or joinery. In many cases, plain old hardware store nuts, bolts, and washers can be used. You can hide them in recesses, and you can add metal threads to wood pieces with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/b/Tools-Hardware-Hardware-Fasteners-Nuts-Tee-Nuts/N-5yc1vZc2a4&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;tee nuts&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/threaded-brass-inserts-select-size&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;threaded inserts&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2015-05-14T14:27:07.937" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T14:27:07.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1453" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1462" CreationDate="2015-05-13T22:36:14.190" Score="16" ViewCount="31604" Body="&lt;p&gt;In this bench, the joints appear to be simple miters; however, I can't believe that this piece would be stable with a simple miter. How might this joint be constructed so that it is strong enough to prevent racking but still appear to be a miter? &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LvVKq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2019-10-24T20:57:49.637" LastActivityDate="2019-11-21T20:35:50.280" Title="What might be stronger than a miter but still look like a miter joint?" Tags="|joinery|racking|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1453" CreationDate="2015-05-13T23:00:13.920" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many hidden reinforcements you could use - biscuits, dowels, or more complex hidden joints such as these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mitred corner dovetail joint&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cUH1D.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mitred corner dovetail joint&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mitred blind dovetail joint&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QDUSF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mitred blind dovetail joint&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... but I wouldn't recommend them unless you have a lot of skill with a chisel, and a lot of time on your hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of these images are from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/_g_M.htm#miterjoint&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; which is a really excellent site for all kinds of woodworking terms, and has lots of variations on common joints etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T23:00:13.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1453" CreationDate="2015-05-14T00:16:37.853" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Metal Brace&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not my area of specialty at all but if I had to guess I would say that there are some metal brackets hiding underneath the joins that we cannot see. Quite possibly in conjunction with what ever joint is hiding in there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iCXLl.png&quot; alt=&quot;corner brace&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just as long as they are a strong metal. Not like the cheap ones made that are  zinc plated you commonly find in hardware stores. They will bend a twist without much effort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Splined Mitre&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see this with a bench but you could hide a large splinted mitre, that does not transverse the entire width,  reinforced with screws or bolts underneath. &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/users/243/graphus&quot;&gt;Graphus&lt;/a&gt; has the correct terminology for this joint:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;a stopped splined mitre to be specific, also called a hidden spline mitre joint or blind splined mitre joint&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be wary not using some metal hardware to reinforce this bench. Most people don't lightly rest the bottoms on a bench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T13:55:57.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="89" CreationDate="2015-05-14T01:31:55.957" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw an ad on a woodworking site and I was reminded of this question. These were touched on in other answers but I wanted to add something more concrete with a picture as an aid. The following is a picture of a drill guide. This would be used with your regular powered hand drill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uaAxp.png&quot; alt=&quot;Big Gator drill guide&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see that the underside has 45 degree angle to as so you could also use this for drilling on square corners and even on the surface of a cylinder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would have the advantage of being compact, reliable and reusable. I am not aware of any other manufacturers but i'm sure they are out there. The site where that picture came from is: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shop.biggatortools.com/Drill-Guides_c3.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Big Gator Tools&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also called &quot;Drill and Tap Guide Blocks&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cheap like me?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wont last as long but it would be real easy to make a facsimile of this with some scrap and a drill press.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-11-22T21:52:03.573" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T21:52:03.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1448" CreationDate="2015-05-14T06:36:05.387" Score="10" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What technique could I employ to help me cut straight lines in my plywood or any board for that matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't recommend any technique for cutting straight lines freehand on a table saw because &lt;strong&gt;you should not do that.&lt;/strong&gt; You should &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; use the fence to guide rip cuts and the miter gauge or a sled for crosscuts. &lt;strong&gt;It's a safety issue:&lt;/strong&gt; if the work happens to catch the back of the blade, the saw won't have any trouble lifting the workpiece up and throwing it at you in the blink of an eye, and that's one way that &lt;strong&gt;people get hurt.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the workpiece is too large to fit between the blade and the fence at its widest setting, it's too large to cut on your table saw. Switch to a circular saw: you can buy one new for $40 or less, or pick up a decent used one for half that at a garage sale, Ebay, etc. You can easily &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/sawing-solutions/circular-saw/?page=5&quot;&gt;make a saw guide&lt;/a&gt; out of scrap wood. The guide is essentially a long fence that you clamp to the workpiece, and you should be able to make very straight cuts with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is to build a saw station that would effectively give you a larger table and greater cutting capacity. One example is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://plansnow.com/dn3090c.html&quot;&gt;Table Saw Workcenter&lt;/a&gt; from Shopnotes No. 89. Building this would be a greater investment in terms of time and materials, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2015-05-14T06:53:47.407" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T06:53:47.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1453" CreationDate="2015-05-14T09:38:13.293" Score="13" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How might this joint be constructed so that it is strong enough to prevent racking but still appear to be a miter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not racking that is the major concern here, it would be (probably sudden!) failure of the glue line in one or both of the mitres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answers from &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/1454/128&quot;&gt;WhatEvil&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/1455/128&quot;&gt;Matt&lt;/a&gt; cover many of the solutions. There are a number of variations on blind dovetailed mitres, but the others are of increasing complexity and hence harder and harder to make accurately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To add some details re. splined mitres (a stopped splined mitre to be specific, also called a hidden spline mitre joint or blind splined mitre joint):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iXnPS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Stopped splined mitre&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the bench being made from fairly beefy material it allows for quite a substantial spline being used, as I've illustrated above. Even made from hardwood (with the grain oriented correctly, as shown) it is probably strong enough to be impossible to break in normal use, if plywood is used it would be stronger still. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost certainly overkill but for absolute assurance the spline could be made from metal (in which case it should be glued in place with epoxy or polyurethane adhesive).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bonus joint:&lt;/strong&gt; if a slight difference in appearance would be acceptable the rebated or rebbeted mitre joint could be used as well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RhXaw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rebated mitre joint&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a significantly strong joint and may be the easiest wood-only solution as only three saw cuts are required per edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T12:34:08.943" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1451" CreationDate="2015-05-14T15:58:53.370" Score="19" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What type of joint is most appropriate for portions of furniture that are likely to be screwed and unscrewed in order to move it around?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are actually numerous options for this. The best choice(s) depend on the size and weight of the furniture, aesthetic concerns and the thickness and strength of the stock used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the most basic you can screw the furniture together, and when building in hardwood in particular screws can be driven home, backed out and screwed back in successfully a number of times. Larger, more coarsely-threaded screws (e.g. coach screws) tend to work better for this as long as their diameters are not too great for the thickness of the material used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to directly screwing into wood, various other threaded metal fasteners are available, the simplest being bolts locked in place with hexagonal or square nuts — usually the projecting end of the bolt and the nut are hidden on the underside or interior surfaces of pieces (as often done in modern bed construction). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a montage of images showing knock-down fasteners of various kinds:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/361fC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Knock-down fittings selection&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;strong&gt;Good Wood Joints&lt;/strong&gt; by Albert Jackson &amp;amp; David Day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also a few traditional joinery techniques that don't rely on glue but on interlocking joint surfaces or on a wooden locking mechanism. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simplest form of locking joint in Western joinery is probably a wedged projecting tenon, also referred to as a tusk tenon. Two examples below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NSVAv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wedged tenon&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A single wedge (clearly visible in the top example above) or two opposing-angle wedges can be used to lock this joint in place. Note: where a single wedge is used the shoulder of the socket in the tenon must be angled to match, where two wedges are use the socket is square to the edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Self-locking joints are known in Western joinery but are most famous today from Japanese carpentry. Regardless of origin they can be extraordinarily difficult to shape; even the simplest type presents a great challenge in accurate sawing and chiselling and should probably only be attempted by the experienced woodworker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T15:58:53.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1448" CreationDate="2015-05-14T16:00:32.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get yourself an 8ft. level from Home Depot, Lowes,ect and clamp it to the plywood and use it as a straitedge (guide) for your circular saw. These levels are precision milled at the factory, you can see the milling cutter marks on the aluminum edges so you know these things are pretty straight. Be careful when you clamp the level to the plywood, you don't want to damage the level as they are not cheap, I have been using this technique for 15 years, works great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="410" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T16:00:32.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1448" CreationDate="2015-05-14T17:39:55.777" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How can I cut plywood in a straight line on a smaller table saw&#xA;  freehand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't cut freehand on your table saw.&lt;/strong&gt; Although you may have gotten by until now without incident, any freehand operation on the table saw (and with many other power tools) is generally considered unsafe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best solution to cut sheet goods larger than your table saw's capacity will depend on the type of cut you're trying to make, and the size of your workpiece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one logic-based solution that you should always keep in mind when a cut seemingly exceeds the capacity of your tool: for every cut, there is an offcut, and often it's helpful to invert your thinking and make your final piece the &quot;offcut.&quot; Although it may be wasteful if you don't have a use for the narrower parts, you can divide what would be your offcut into one or more cuts, then whittle the large piece down to its final dimension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some solutions for cutting sheet goods larger than your table saw's capacity...some have already been touched on by others, but I'm including them for completeness and in some cases I may go into more detail:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Circular saw (or router with a straight bit, or high-quality jigsaw, etc.) with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wwgoa.com/article/shop-made-circular-saw-guide-cheap-easy-and-awesome/&quot;&gt;zero-clearance straightedge guide&lt;/a&gt; (aka homemade track saw)&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lay a sheet of 1/2&quot; thick or thicker housing insulation foam on the ground (or set up sawhorses with 2x4s spanning them, if you prefer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lay your sheet of material on top, measure and mark as necessary, and position your guide on the marks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set the circular saw blade to cut just slightly deeper than the thickness of the wood and make the cut, holding the tool against the fence of your straightedge guide.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clamp a straightedge &quot;fence&quot; to the underside of your workpiece so it registers against the side of your table saw's table at the appropriate location to make the desired cut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have the material cut to rough dimensions at the store. Note that the store saw doesn't always produce a clean cut and the workers don't always account for the kerf, so you should get your parts cut oversized and plan on cutting to final dimensions yourself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install a longer fence and add an extension table to your table saw wing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Build a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/110729/table-sawrouter-cabinet&quot;&gt;table saw station&lt;/a&gt; (you may need to use one or more of the other methods in the process of building the table saw station, but once it's complete you can use it to solve the same problem in the future)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a handsaw, jigsaw, circular saw, router, or some other tool to cut slightly oversized, then register the factory-cut edge against your fence to cut to final dimension.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Build or buy a sliding table extension, sled, or sliding top&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also a few options to solve for your second problem, in order of preference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Outfeed table (for full-size sheets it's also helpful to have an infeed table)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.harborfreight.com/132-lb-capacity-roller-stand-68898.html&quot;&gt;Roller stand&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have a helper stand on the outfeed side of your table saw and hold the outfeed end of the sheet level with the table saw top as you finish the cut&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-05-14T17:53:49.500" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T17:53:49.500" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1453" CreationDate="2015-05-14T18:25:31.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides mitered versions of various types of other sufficiently strong joinery methods, you could use non-mitered versions of any of those, and more (dovetail, dowels, Domino, mortise and tenon, box joints, dadoed/housed joints, knock-down hardware, etc.--perhaps even butt joints with countersunk lag screws), using any sufficiently strong material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, when you're all done, veneer the whole thing so it looks like you used miter joints. This wouldn't be my first choice, but the parts of the bench look thick enough that almost any material would be strong enough. You could certainly achieve the same look with inexpensive materials, artificially-distressed veneers (even 1/8&quot; or thinner might do it), and faux miter joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T18:25:31.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1463" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1464" CreationDate="2015-05-14T19:45:45.920" Score="22" ViewCount="3415" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using a table saw to make picture frames with mitered corners. It turns out that even tiny inaccuracies in the miter angle or the lengths of the frame pieces cause gaps that make a frame look sloppy. I know there are ways to fine tune a miter joint, like using a plane and a shooting board to trim the pieces. And there are specialty tools like a &lt;a href=&quot;https://mvflaim.wordpress.com/2015/01/22/using-a-lion-miter-trimmer/&quot;&gt;Lion Trimmer&lt;/a&gt;. But we're talking about fairly simple geometry here, so I feel like there must be some technique behind perfect, repeatable miter joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How can I create perfect miter joints every time without needing to measure each one veerrry carefully?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-08-31T00:25:12.303" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T13:39:57.470" Title="Perfect miters every time" Tags="|technique|joinery|table-saw|tolerance|miter-joint|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1463" CreationDate="2015-05-14T20:11:11.710" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's two ways that immediately pop to mind- one involves spending a significant amount of money, the other a significant amount of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy replacement miter gauges for most table saws (e.g. Incra) that are very very accurate. Couple that with a good &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodmagazine.com/wood/pdf/delta/ds-038free.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;tune-up&lt;/a&gt;, and you'll be cutting perfect miters in no time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the other option is to make a &lt;a href=&quot;http://workshop.lifehacker.com/build-a-miter-sled-jig-to-cut-perfect-45-degree-corners-1655830467&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;nice miter sled&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HNPyo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;miter sled&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both options will provide a nice stop block system, which will give you exact, repeatable lengths. Couple that with accurate angle measurements, and you're really good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T20:17:47.273" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1453" CreationDate="2015-05-14T20:42:42.263" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've thought about this some more and have come up with an alternative solution. If I had to make this bench and be sure that the joints won't break over time, I'd want to look at some real reinforcement... how about a steel substructure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you have your basic bench structure which is made by lamination of smaller timber boards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qJ1en.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Laminated mitred bench - overall&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that it's made of smaller timber boards allows you to sandwich the boards around a bent steel plate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7nm0R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bench exploded&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cross section of the whole bench: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4odG8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bench cross section&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cross section through main part of bench showing steel housed within timbers, with optional dowel:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wOpdJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;vertical cross section&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fully exploded view:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/czXoC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fully exploded view&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So basically: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get 2 pieces of steel cut and folded (which should be quite cheap from a local fabricator), I have drawn them at 5mm thick with a 60mm timber thickness. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get your constituent timber pieces for lamination and groove them out using a router or a circular saw. I have shown a 10mm groove width to allow tolerance for the steel, though in reality the less tolerance you can have the better.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Optionally, drill dowel holes to aid in positioning / holding the whole thing together.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glue the whole timber part of the bench up around the steels. I'd advise either using an epoxy glue to glue the steel into the timber and take up any tolerance, or wedge the steel tightly into the timber using timber wedges or maybe standard plastic packers or wedges, but you can get away with using PVA wood glue for the timber itself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you have a really sturdy bench that looks simply constructed, and isn't actually that hard to do. If you build it right, this thing isn't breaking in a hundred years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind this is just a concept. You could use just one central steel, or 3 steels, or smaller, separate steel brackets at each end, or you could use biscuits to reinforce between the horizontals either side of the grooves. The basic premise is the important thing and that's to build the laminations up around steel brackets in order to add hidden reinforcement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T20:42:42.263" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1436" CreationDate="2015-05-14T20:44:50.980" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;About 50 years ago, my Dad worked for an &quot;antique&quot; dealer on Cape Cod who would take a new, unfinished piece (like a table) and toss it in the ocean for a couple of weeks.  Then he'd pull it out, do a half-a**ed job of finishing it and sell it as an antique to idiots coming from Boston or New York.  Maybe not the most ethical thing, but it would be you the distressed look you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="447" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T20:44:50.980" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1463" CreationDate="2015-05-14T23:14:17.973" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The miter sled and precision miter gauge suggested by TX Turner work great for picture frames since your table saw's maximum depth of cut does not become a limiting factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make mitered boxes--including shadow boxes with mitered corners--there is another technique that works well, which involves tilting your saw blade and using a crosscut sled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a digital angle gauge, you can use that to set your table saw's tilt angle. Otherwise, you can use a drafter's square, use the 45 degree angle on your combination square, or set your bevel gauge to exactly 45 degrees (or other appropriate angle) to accurately gauge your table saw's angle as you tilt the blade. Be sure to register against the table saw top and the plate of the saw blade (not the teeth). To make sure the blade is perfectly flush with your gauge, add backlighting behind the gauge and adjust the blade tilt angle until no light passes between the gauge and blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you may want to use a separate sled for 90 degree crosscuts vs. angled cuts, since the zero-clearance kerf won't match up. On many saws, the blade is not centered between the miter slots, so depending on your saw you may be able to rotate your existing crosscut sled 180 degrees and cut an angled kerf without interfering with the 90 degree kerf. If you do run the sled backwards, make sure to add any appropriate safety features to the other end, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-05-14T23:23:55.183" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T23:23:55.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1468" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1470" CreationDate="2015-05-15T00:56:17.863" Score="9" ViewCount="3255" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of making my own tv tray tables set with convenient stowage as a feature, yet the (one) design I've ever seen is highly susceptible (with age?) to lateral instability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a design that doesn't have that problem and without making the foot-room situation &lt;em&gt;worse&lt;/em&gt; (I always kicked the darn thing and almost sent my meal flying).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TBJun.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;UPDATE&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My wife got tired of waiting for me to build them so we bought some :-P  Perfection is the enemy of Good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="608" LastEditorUserId="608" LastEditDate="2015-11-02T14:25:50.840" LastActivityDate="2024-03-08T03:30:02.143" Title="Improve on TV Tray Table design for lateral stability?" Tags="|stability|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1468" CreationDate="2015-05-15T02:50:02.230" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Diagonally bracing the inner leg pair would help...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T02:50:02.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1468" CreationDate="2015-05-15T05:51:49.630" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a design that doesn't have that problem and without making the foot-room situation worse&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you ever seen a folding walker? Here's a picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DVUO1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;folding walker&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The whole point of a walker is to support someone, so it needs to be stable in all directions. Lateral stability is provided by the parallel tubes in which the two frames pivot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could use a similar design for a tray table: a front panel connecting two frames which each swing out, or a two-legged front frame with two swing-out gate legs. Such a design would provide more foot/leg room and more stability, and would fold into a flat unit. I'm sure I've seen folding tray tables that use this concept.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to build a set of nested tables that don't collapse at all, but which fit together in roughly the same space that a set of folded tray tables would occupy. These tables can be much more stable because they don't need to fold, but of course the tables need to be different sizes so each one fits inside the next larger one. You can make nesting tables to match any furniture style. Here's one image (although I like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scandinavianmod.com/ct013.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this style&lt;/a&gt; better):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cwQws.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;nesting tables&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2015-05-15T06:08:46.260" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T06:08:46.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1067" CreationDate="2015-05-15T14:36:25.097" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does it make sense to reapply the gel when storing the bit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No.&lt;/strong&gt; That gel is some sort of wax that protects the bit before sale. I guess it helps protect against corrosion (especially if the bit has a bearing), but it also prevents anyone handling the bit from being cut, and it prevents the bit from being chipped or broken if it happens to bump against other bits, fall on the floor, etc. The coating is not meant to be reused once removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're ready to use the bit for the first time, you should remove the coating. After that, keeping the bits clean and storing the bits in a dry place in a rack or in the container they came in should provide sufficient protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2015-05-16T17:42:56.320" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T17:42:56.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1472" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-15T15:48:19.340" Score="9" ViewCount="3963" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built my joiner's mallet when I was just getting started in woodworking. I hadn't seen too many mallets before then so I went with my gut instincts on size and dimensions. The result is a &lt;b&gt;very&lt;/b&gt; hefty mallet made of hard maple and ash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VtirL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mallet&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This mallet works well for me and I barely have to move it to drive a chisel. I've used it for long periods of time with minimal fatigue. But I have to ask, is there some advantage I'm missing out on that a smaller mallet has to offer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="81" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-05-15T17:39:57.960" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T20:23:24.233" Title="Size of a Joiner's Mallet" Tags="|hand-tools|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1472" CreationDate="2015-05-15T15:54:26.833" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;I can't see the picture but I can just guess from ..&lt;/strike&gt; That's quite the mallet! That size could cause some hardships....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If it is &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; big then you can have potential issues if you are trying to make delicate taps on a chisel or some other tool like a punch for small pieces. Sure, you could choke up but having a smaller mallet would be easier to handle I would say.&#xA;If you are comfortable with the changes in force relative to the size of the tools and application then this might not be a concern.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I can't think of a scenario for this but it the mallet is large you might have trouble getting into smaller or awkward spaces. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Now that I have seen how big it is I could also see a problem with viewing your strikes. While you might not need to I would see the need to try and look around the mallet to see where I'm striking. That is mostly personal preference though.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There is no one telling you that you can't have more than one mallet&lt;/strong&gt;! Build all the things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you say that you have &lt;em&gt;used it for long periods of time with minimal fatigue&lt;/em&gt;. That could be subjective. I don't know what a long period of time is to you or how often you use it during that period. While this is not true for you, others might see the weight (Usually those mallets use dense wood) causing strain over time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-05-15T20:23:24.233" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T20:23:24.233" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1472" CreationDate="2015-05-15T16:05:06.613" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;is there some advantage I'm missing out on that a smaller mallet has to offer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to &lt;em&gt;big and heavy&lt;/em&gt; being actively detrimental I think that's a firm: it depends. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A physically smaller but still heavy striking implement (hammer, a lead-weighted mallet, or one made from lignum vitae or another heavyweight wood) could provide some benefits in some specific situations, purely as a matter of size and access. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are plenty of purpose-made carver's mallets that are quite sizeable but generally these are scaled to the expected type of work, so big ones for large work and/or hogging off lots of material, regular-sized for pieces in a more 'normal' scale and smaller ones for working smaller or for use on miniature pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2015-05-15T16:06:23.930" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T16:06:23.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1475" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-15T16:19:55.453" Score="8" ViewCount="2991" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was reading this question about the &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1472/size-of-joiners-mallet&quot;&gt;Size of a Joiner&amp;#39;s Mallet&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;and it got me thinking about why specifically I would even want to have a joiner's mallet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an old croquet stick (shortened handle of course) as well a rubber mallet and a variety of hammers that I use for this type of work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My chisels are seeing a lot of game time recently for joinery. Am I missing out by not using this tool?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T08:50:20.947" Title="Why would I want a joiner's mallet" Tags="|hand-tools|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1476" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1482" CreationDate="2015-05-15T16:38:22.543" Score="11" ViewCount="15790" Body="&lt;p&gt;For years I've used &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0000223UD&quot;&gt;Bostik TopCote&lt;/a&gt; (apparently now called GlideCote) to protect the cast iron top of my table saw. It has always worked very well: I have no rust on the top, and it provides a nice slick surface. But now my can is empty! Before I spend $20 on a new can, I'm thinking about other options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking around my shop, I've got at least two cans of clear Briwax with little hope of ever using them up in my lifetime. I've heard of people using beeswax on cast iron, so that might be an option. Do I need to be concerned about wax applied to the table surface rubbing off on workpieces, possibly causing finishing problems? Does a wax coating last, and does it provide adequate protection against corrosion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other protective coatings for iron that I should consider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-05-15T17:36:51.427" LastActivityDate="2020-01-16T19:36:40.337" Title="Table saw top treatment" Tags="|table-saw|tool-maintenance|rust|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1472" CreationDate="2015-05-15T17:01:45.347" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;momentum = mass * velocity&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're hitting a framing chisel to hollow out a mortise in an oak beam, bigger is probably better. But the goal isn't always to hit the chisel as hard as possible. Given the equation above, you can see that you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; achieve small amounts of momentum with a heavy mallet, but very small changes in velocity will produce relatively large changes in momentum because the mass of your mallet is so large.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need fine control over the energy you deliver to a chisel or gouge, a smaller mallet gives you more control within a given range by letting you use a wider range of velocities. The maximum momentum you can achieve with that smaller mallet will be less, of course, because there's a limit to how fast you can move the mallet. But the difference in velocities required to generate gentle taps compared to firm taps will be greater, which makes it easier to regulate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's the same reason that hammers come in sizes ranging from 6oz or less all the way up to a 20lb sledgehammer: different tools for different jobs. You could drive brads with a big sledgehammer, but you'd likely bend a number of them or hit your fingers because it's a lot harder to control than a small finishing hammer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T17:01:45.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1475" CreationDate="2015-05-15T17:56:55.597" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you have to carry them around or put a premium on space, the answer to &quot;do I need another tool&quot; is always yes.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Specific advantages of a joiner's mallet:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The angled face of the mallet makes it easier to swing as your arm stays lower.&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The large face lets you concentrate on your chisel's business end and ignore how your mallet strikes are falling.&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can make it yourself using a branch you cut off your neighbor's apple tree in the middle of the night.&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://video.pbs.org/video/2365021538/&quot;&gt;Roy Underhill making a mallet.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="81" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T17:56:55.597" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1475" CreationDate="2015-05-15T17:57:36.643" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would want a joiners mallet if your toolbox lacked a beefy wooden mallet with which to drive chisels and whack together (or apart) tight joints. If you already have tools sufficient for those purposes, or if those are not among the tasks that you need to perform regularly, you could also use one to decorate the wall at your local TGI Friday's, or to flatten minute steaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short: You'll know it if you need one, and it sounds like you don't need one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T17:57:36.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1385" CreationDate="2015-05-15T18:17:37.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it as simple as &quot;always ensure board is a multiple of 2x the kerf of the dado set?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want half fingers at top and bottom on the same side, then yes, using an even multiple of the finger width (or dado kerf) will do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want full fingers at top and bottom of the same side, use an odd multiple of the finger width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T18:17:37.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1453" CreationDate="2015-05-15T20:36:37.657" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I may (justifiably) be shunned for bringing it up, it is possible to get &lt;strong&gt;right-angled dowels&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fastenersplus.com/90-degree-right-angle-furniture-dowel-pkg-3.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.fastenersplus.com/90-degree-right-angle-furniture-dowel-pkg-3.html&lt;/a&gt; This will prevent any motion of the pieces, but it's not what you call a purist approach to woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="463" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T20:36:37.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1476" CreationDate="2015-05-16T01:22:48.050" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Various people swear by different rust prevention products for cast iron tops, but unfortunately not everyone is able to achieve the same results. In 2012 Fine Woodworking did a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-to/article/the-best-rust-preventers.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;torture test&lt;/a&gt; on tool steel and cast iron, and found that many popular &quot;tried and true&quot; rust prevention products did ok on tool steel but many did not perform as well on cast iron. Some of the results even seemingly contradicted the previous results published in FWW--for example, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-to/qa/camellia-oil-outscores-other-rust-preventers.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;different article&lt;/a&gt; highly recommended camellia oil over anything else, but in the torture test many other treatments outperformed it, even on tool steel. In fact, if you look at the Amazon reviews for the products that did do well in FWW's test, you'll see that many people's results were inconsistent with Fine Woodworking's findings. Unfortunately, there's no guaranteed winner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Silicone-free paste wax is a common recommendation. Silicone can come off on your wood. If this happens, it can cause birds-eye spotting when you go to apply finish, and according to George Vondriska of the Woodworkers Guild of America, it can also prevent glue from adhering properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The typical recommendation for any type of protective finish is to strip and reapply protectant every 2-3 months. If you're in a humid region, I'd suggest going no more than 2 months. If you're in a dry region, you may be able to go a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I've been using Boeshield T9, which is a pain because it dries tacky and requires a coat of wax on top to allow wood to slide smoothly. I'm not convinced T9 is any better than any other treatment. Even with that double treatment, my saw top started to show light rust in one place after just barely 2 months. However, I reapplied after removing the rust, and through the entire following winter it was fine without any additional treatments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-05-16T03:22:38.337" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T03:22:38.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1067" CreationDate="2015-05-16T15:12:56.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Couldn't hurt, but honestly I wouldn't bother. Anecdotal I know, but where I work we've never bothered and I've never known of any issues with corrosion on bits. It might be an idea if you have a particularly damp environment like a barn or something, and you think you're likely not to use a bit for a year or something, but overall I wouldn't worry about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I would recommend that if you WERE to replace the coating by using the original stuff, that you also apply oil to the bits. All of the bits I've ever seen that have come in this plastic coating have also been slightly oily so that's the assumption I was working on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastEditorUserId="272" LastEditDate="2015-05-17T21:48:44.787" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T21:48:44.787" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1476" CreationDate="2015-05-16T19:51:41.247" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as rust-prevention goes, I would caution being very sceptical about the results of published comparative tests. Every one I've seen done by a commercial publication, without a single exception, would fall short of a proper scientific comparison. Some even acknowledge this in the text! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So they are far from definitive and the wildly differing results for the same products should throw up warning flags. In one test WD-40 did very well indeed, despite its known weakness as a long-term rust preventative. In another BoeShield did poorly — for one reason or another — when it is widely acknowledged by professional users to be one of the best products there is (not an endorsement of BoeShield by the way).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we go back to the era before modern scientific coatings and see what they recommended it was oiling or greasing (e.g. with tallow) or waxing. All of those are still viable ways to go for rust prevention. From user experience they &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; work when upkeep is maintained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But for rust prevention &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; surface glide IME there's a clear winner: wax. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you leave enough oil or grease on the surface that it's as slippy as a well-buffed wax coating it'll be actually greasy, which is all sorts of bad. Apart from the obvious risk of getting wood greasy from direct contact, your fingertips can get oily and transfer this then to the next piece of wood you handle. And to top it off, with that amount of oil on the surface dusts of all levels will cling to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So wax it is. Paste wax specifically. Before you run out to buy any it's incredibly easy to make at home, cheap too. All that's required is wax to be melted with spirits or turpentine (or dissolved in the solvent in a warm spot like a sunny windowsill), poured into a suitable container and left to set. That's paste wax, indistinguishable from many commercial varieties except for colour, and possibly smell. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Waxes to try: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paraffin wax (as in most white dinner candles, in North America canning wax is another source). Usually far and away the cheapest option.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Beeswax. slightly tougher but more expensive. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carnauba wax, which is very hard. Not to be used by itself, but as an additive to make the dried wax coating harder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for the cheapest coating with good wear resistance use paraffin wax mixed with a little carnauba.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T19:51:41.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1485" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1486" CreationDate="2015-05-16T20:04:19.887" Score="10" ViewCount="7273" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a tongue and groove router bit,  and on my first attempt on some scrap I had about 1/32&quot;-1/16&quot; of an offset between the two boards I was joining. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I went wrong by thinking I could eyeball lining up the groove bit with the already cut tongue. Obviously that didn't work though. How can I easily install the bits in the router at the correct height? (Don't have a table yet, just working with a handheld router.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cwxNL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T21:48:30.733" Title="What's the easiest way to line up a tongue and groove?" Tags="|router|router-bit|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1485" CreationDate="2015-05-16T20:29:46.757" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How can I easily install the bits in the router at the correct height?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first time you use the set:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install one cutter to a height that looks right for your lumber.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make a on a test piece. Label this piece so that you'll remember that it's not scrap. Make sure that you mark the side of the piece that was against the router's base plate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Switch to the other cutter, using the first test piece to eyeball the height.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make a cut on another test piece.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure the error using a dial indicator or a set of digital/dial/vernier calipers, i.e. anything that'll let you measure small distances accurately.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust the bit height according to the error.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat steps 2-4 as necessary.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once you're happy with the result, label the last test from the second cutter as you did for the first.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you've got two test pieces that you can use as gauges in the future. For either cutter, you can use the corresponding test piece to set the height. Install the cutter and, with the test piece on the base plate, adjust the height until you can turn the cutter by hand through the test piece with as little resistance as possible. Lock the router height and proceed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might help to point out that most routers have some means of measuring changes in height. A Porter Cable 690, for example, has a collar with a series of tick marks that correspond to 1/128&quot;. If your router doesn't have something like that, you can also use a tool like a dial indicator to measure changes. If you can measure the amount of error in your first cut, and if you can measure changes to the bit height, then your second test cut should be spot on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T20:29:46.757" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1475" CreationDate="2015-05-17T08:50:20.947" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Am I missing out by not using this tool?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way of looking at the question &lt;strong&gt;Do I need a [large, heavy] wooden mallet?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;is by asking it this way &lt;strong&gt;Do I need &lt;em&gt;the function&lt;/em&gt; of a [large, heavy] wooden mallet?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For a lot of people that is clearly a no, &lt;em&gt;as long as they have one of the multiple alternatives&lt;/em&gt; (as you've listed in the original question). While none of them are direct stand-ins for a wooden mallet, they can do the same job to the satisfaction of those individual users. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With some experience under their belt I think the average worker gets pretty good at identifying gaps in the tool-set and then looking around at the options, picking what will come in handiest &lt;em&gt;for them&lt;/em&gt;. It's not a perfect system, but often the utility that you think a tool will have comes close to the utility is does have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I suspect that given you haven't already said to yourself something like, &quot;I could really do with a joiner's mallet.&quot; means you don't &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That doesn't mean you couldn't find a use for one if you bought or made one, but if you're after the fewest tools that'll do the most work then I'd say don't worry about it and continue to be happy with your croquet mallet. You wouldn't be the only woodworker using one!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T08:50:20.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1485" CreationDate="2015-05-17T12:07:39.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I consider that to be a very good match for not using a table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it doesn't take much to get them off just a little bit.  Incra has gauges that can be used to measure the height of bits and blades down to 64th of an inch. If you are really serious about being that close, I'd get a router table (or make a jig) and get a gauge, and you have to make sure both the wood and the router are exactly 90 degrees to one another (whether by hand or table).  If your board has even a little warp across it and you don't keep the front flat, you will be off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T12:07:39.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1489" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1491" CreationDate="2015-05-17T18:15:30.150" Score="18" ViewCount="46993" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the early stages of designing a dust collection system for my home shop.  My existing system, a dustpan and broom, is vastly inefficient for my setup, which includes a tablesaw, router table, planer, and various small power tools. Long-term, my goal is to plumb my shop to run ductwork to each of my three main tools from a centralized dust collector - I haven't yet mapped out a design for this, but the tool area of my shop is around 20x15, and I'd need to run to all three tools.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When doing my initial research to get a feel for the costs, I've run into a variety of recommendations for materials to use.  Some sites insist that PVC pipe is the best &quot;affordable&quot; option, while others strongly warn against using it due to static buildup.  Most of the other options I read about are more expensive, often by a significant amount, so I want to know if it's possible to save money by using PVC, or if the risks outweigh the convenience.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is PVC a safe material to use in a dust collection system, and are there any specific precautions I need to take in order to use it?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="342" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2015-05-18T09:14:09.667" LastActivityDate="2017-09-19T13:03:31.880" Title="Is PVC pipe safe to use for a dust collection system?" Tags="|safety|sawdust|dust-collection|materials|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1489" CreationDate="2015-05-17T21:59:16.093" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know about PVC tubing with regards to static build-up, but an important thing to consider that you may not have thought about is that having a small bend radius when you're going around corners etc. can actually choke up your system and cause you to lose a lot of suction power, as it gives more resistance. If you use standard PVC tubing and standard elbows, and you have to go around lots of bends then this could be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also unsure of the abrasive-resistant properties of PVC, though depending on how much you'll be using it, this may not be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for what I've seen used, I've only ever seen solid metal tubing, or flexible polyurethane tubing - the stuff with the wire wound through it in a spiral, like a spring:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ANJiJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This stuff is not drastically expensive and is easy to route and install as it's flexible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no experience of PVC tubing as dust extraction, but I've always worked in a professional environment with purpose-made extraction. There is however a discussion &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/PVC_piping.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; which suggests that PVC is a very bad idea. Remember that wood dust is highly flammable and at the right concentration in the air can even be explosive. Personally I wouldn't take any chances with static discharge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T21:59:16.093" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1489" CreationDate="2015-05-18T04:05:11.487" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;PVC is commonly used in dust collection systems. Typically for longer runs you should use 6&quot; or larger pipe, regardless of the material. If you're using PVC, the larger, less expensive pipe is commonly available as sewer drain pipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As of May 2015, there have been no known fires caused by a static discharge in a PVC pipe from a dust collection system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because PVC is an insulator, you are more likely to get a number of small static discharges than a single large static discharge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you want to ground your PVC anyway, simply running a ground wire through the PVC will not be very effective because--as I mentioned before--PVC is an insulator and charge does not travel across it very easily. Only the surfaces of the pipe in direct contact with the wire will be grounded, and any points not in &lt;em&gt;direct&lt;/em&gt; contact will not be grounded. Grounding the outside is pointless because no charge will travel from the inside to the outside, or vice-versa. If you suspend the wire directly through the middle of the pipe, you still won't collect and ground much charge because air is also an excellent insulator. If you want to effectively ground the system, you need to entirely cover the inside of the pipe with a conductive coating, then ground the inside of the pipe to the components on either end of the pipe (dust collector and tool), as if you were running metal pipe. Suffice it to say, it's a lot less work to just trust physics and use PVC pipe as-is without any extra unnecessary precautions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're still concerned, I'd suggest reading the following articles, which cover the topic in much more depth:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/how-to/exploding-pvc-dust-collection-ductwork/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Exploding PVC Dust Collection Ductwork?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20151026103714/http://home.comcast.net/~rodec/woodworking/articles/DC_myths.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Grounding PVC and Other Dust Collection Myths&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, keep in mind that if you are running a central dust collection system, you aren't going to get enough airflow or air velocity if you cheap out on the dust collector itself. Once you've planned out your pipe, crunch the numbers with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.billpentz.com/Woodworking/Cyclone/staticcalc.xls&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bill Pentz's static pressure calculator&lt;/a&gt; (Excel spreadsheet) to find the CFM and static pressure requirements, and use those as the minimum specs when shopping for a dust collector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="22" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T23:18:45.117" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T23:18:45.117" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1492" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1495" CreationDate="2015-05-18T04:37:06.530" Score="16" ViewCount="8761" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know there are many types of squares, and ultimately all of them are used check an angle for square-ness, i.e., to make sure it is a 90° angle. But different squares are good at different jobs. For example, a Swanson speed square has a lip on one side that makes it really good for quickly drawing a perpendicular line on a work piece (among many other things).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does a try square excel at? If my understanding is correct, a try square has one arm that is thinner than the other arm, like this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GJKgn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Image Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Speed_square&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; - Image license: &lt;a href=&quot;http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0/ca/deed.en&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;CC BY-SA 2.0 ca, Wikimedia commons&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most sources from around the web just say that &quot;try square&quot; is another name for &quot;square&quot;, and describe what a square does. But I'm thinking there must be something that a square with one arm thinner than the other is better at than, say, a Swanson square or a framing square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-05-18T13:07:27.030" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T13:07:27.030" Title="What is a try square used for?" Tags="|tools|hand-tools|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1485" CreationDate="2015-05-18T05:08:02.927" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although you're using a tongue and groove set, the process would be very similar with other bits. However, the reference surfaces might differ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on which bits you're using, you should have at least 2 routers, one set up to cut the groove and another one (or two) set up to cut the tongue. For the examples below, I'll assume you only have 1 router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that anytime you're trying to make mating parts, you should avoid measuring on each separate part. You can measure on the first part, but after that you should ideally use some type of gauge to transfer the measurement directly from one part to the other. In many cases, the first part itself is the gauge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Method 1: no special tools required&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For simplicity of explanation, let's cut the tongue first.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install the groove cutter bit and line the tongue board up alongside the router bit. Don't plug in the router yet (you did unplug it to change the router bit, right?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust the height of the tongue cutter until it is perfectly lined up with the tongue. With the router unplugged, use your finger to tell when the groove bit's cutter is perfectly lined up with the tongue. Whether it's true or not, the common wisdom in the woodworking field is that the human finger has a resolution of about 1/1000&quot;. Alternatively, you can lay a small flat scrap across the top of the tongue and micro-adjust the router bit until it just kisses the scrap (in that case, a backlight will help you see when the gap is closed).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut the groove on the second workpiece.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Method 2: caliper&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q5Qin.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Caliper&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wonkeedonkeetools.co.uk/calipers/what-are-the-parts-of-a-vernier-caliper/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the purposes of this example, I'll assume you have a caliper, but you can apply the same gauging concept to other measurement devices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For simplicity of explanation, cut the tongue first.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lay a shim (e.g., a flat, rigid metal ruler) alongside the tongue piece so the tongue overhangs the shim.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using the depth gauge of your caliper, measure the distance from the the top of the tongue to the shim. Lock the reading into your caliper using the lock screw. This measurement is the distance from the top of the tongue to the baseplate of your router, minus the thickness of the shim.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install the groove cutter bit and line the groove board up roughly alongside the router bit, then raise the bit upward slightly (assuming your router has the bit facing upward at this point).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Register the depth gauge end of your caliper along the groove bit's cutter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using the router's micro-adjustment knob, adjust the bit downward (again, assuming the bit is facing upward) until the caliper's depth gauge bottoms out on the shim (which is now lying across the hole in your router table or baseplate).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut the tongue on the second workpiece.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Method 3: caliper&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the purposes of this example, I'll assume you have a caliper. Note that this example is slightly convoluted in an effort to demonstrate how to take a reading using one part of a caliper, then transfer it using a different part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For simplicity of explanation, let's cut the groove first.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using the lower jaws of the caliper, take the outside measurement of the thickness of the lip that was touching the router base (or router table), and lock this measurement into your caliper with the lock screw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install the tongue cutter bit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transfer your previous measurement directly when setting up to cut the tongue. Use the depth rod to gauge the height of the tongue cutter, while adjusting the height using your router's coarse and fine adjustment knobs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut the tongue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-05-18T21:48:30.733" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T21:48:30.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1492" CreationDate="2015-05-18T06:24:37.217" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;When discussing tools, there is a spectrum ranging from construction tools (good enough for framing a house but not necessarily precision instruments) to machinist tools (which are typically highly precise). Woodworking tools fall somewhere in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A try square like the one pictured in your question is great for scribing or drawing 90 degree lines, but it also can be used for machinery setup and for checking whether an inside or outside angle between two surfaces is exactly 90 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try squares especially excel at wrapping lines around corners; for example, when laying out joinery with a marking knife or pencil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A combination square can also perform the same duties as a try square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-05-18T07:53:53.287" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T07:53:53.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1492" CreationDate="2015-05-18T07:27:05.663" Score="18" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;a Swanson speed square has a lip on one side that makes it really good for quickly drawing a perpendicular line on a work piece&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A try square is similar in that respect: the handle is thicker than the blade, so it's easy to push the inside of the handle up against the edge of a board and mark (or verify) a line perpendicular (square) to the edge. And you can easily stand a try square on the outside edge of the handle to check that your table saw blade is at 90° to the table. You can check inside corners with a try square or a speed square, but due to its triangular shape a speed square can't be used to check outside corners the way a try square can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A speed square is a rugged, rough tool that is built to be tossed in a bucket of tools and which you can always count on to get you close enough to square for construction purposes. A try square is less rugged and should be treated more like a precision instrument — take care not to drop it, give it a safe home in your toolbox, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2015-05-18T07:54:33.883" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T07:54:33.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1496" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1497" CreationDate="2015-05-19T05:07:28.850" Score="15" ViewCount="43252" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a live edge walnut slab coffee table.  This is a photo of the bottom side of the table before any finish is applied sanded to 220 (for reference the holes are for threaded inserts that take a 1/4-20 bolt -- I machined metal legs that mate to the table):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QRaaS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I finished the bottom using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.buybutcherblock.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&amp;amp;Product_Code=goodstuff-finish4&amp;amp;Category_Code=maintenanceProd&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Emmet's Good Stuff&lt;/a&gt;, which is a gel polyurethane oil based varnish.  I applied a few coats, scuff sanded, and then used steel wool to apply some wax.  I used some cotton rags to polish the wax by hand:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uvkue.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;walnut color example 1&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZGBAo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;walnut color example 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's pretty hard to capture the grain/reflections with my iphone, but in general I liked the results. That stated I'd like something that pops the grain a bit more on the top side.  The Good Stuff contains &quot;synthetic oils&quot; (whatever that means) that do penetrate the wood nicely, but it doesn't have quite the pop I'm looking for.  Additionally the color of the wood doesn't quite match, the look I was hoping for seen in examples like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://store.kaufmann-mercantile.com/products/live-edge-black-walnut-cutting-board&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Example 1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://stinewoodworking.com/portfolio/live-edge-slab-dining-table/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Example 2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm hoping to get a richer/darker tone in the heartwood while maintaining a nice contrast with the sap wood (it's fine by me if the sap wood darkens up a bit too so long as it maintains that nice contrast seen in the above examples).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been reading a ton about finishing and was hoping to get some feedback on the following finishing schedule for this piece:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1-2 coats of oil (either boiled linseed, tung, or something like a danish oil).  The idea of this step is to pop the grain more than the good stuff is capable of as well as possibly darken the color of the wood a bit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 coat of dewaxed shellac.  The idea here is to provide a sanding sealer, optionally use a darker shellac (maybe amber?) to help darken the wood as well (augmenting step 1), and provide an interface to other finishing products. (perhaps this step is unnecessary if the next step isn't needed?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pore filler.  Not really sure about this step -- I've been reading a bunch about it/watching youtube videos and it's unclear to me if this will help accentuate the pores (which I would imagine would help pop the figure) after the first two steps in this process.  From what I understand I think I'd want to use an oil based pore filler.  I am under the impression that I should sand this stuff off so it just stays in the pores. (Maybe I can combine the first three steps into one step by wet sanding the oil and using the slurry as wood filler?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Few coats of Good Stuff to provide a nice hard durable finish on top.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rub out the good stuff with sand paper up to ~1200 grit to get a satin finish.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any feedback on the above steps, combination thereof, and the proposed reasoning behind them would be helpful.  Perhaps there other other better ways to approach this as well.  A few notes: I'm doing this in a garage with minimal access to professional equipment so spraying isn't really an option for me.  I'm 100% an amateur/hobbyist so super expensive equipment probably isn't realistic (though I do have access to a tool library and would consider investment in low-medium cost tools).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-------  EDIT  -------&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After trying several different permutations I finally finished the table.  I ended up making a test board of a piece I cut from the slab:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The combinations I tried were:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 part Boiled linseed oil 1 part mineral spirits&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 part Boiled linseed oil 1 part mineral spirits second coat wet sanded with the grain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maloof oil (1/3 poly, 1/3 BLO, 1/3 tung)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maloof oil second coat wet sanded with grain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Good stuff&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 part BLO 2 parts mineral spirits&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tung oil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1lb dewaxed blonde shellac to test as a sanding sealer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then top coated those with good stuff to see what the final effect would be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E4NSe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;test board&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sample board below shows the work, but it's probably impossible to see any differences given the lighting and iphone camera.  Suffice it to say there was a notable difference between all options.  How much and who noticed is debatable, but if you looked closely there were lots of differences.  All the oil products definitely popped the grain much better than the good stuff.  Qualitatively I'd say that BLO darkened the wood (especially the sap wood) more than the tung oil.  Interestingly the 2 parts mineral spirits 1 part BLO came out darker than 1 part mineral spirits 1 part BLO.  Maybe the mineral spirits thinned it more so that it was able to penetrate deeper?  Wet sanding the second coat definitely did &lt;em&gt;something&lt;/em&gt; to the pores.  I've read in a few places that it's debatable whether this technique actually fills the pores since you're wiping away after a few minutes anyway.  In any event those sections' pores were much more visible (e.g. darker) to a degree I didn't like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shellac absolutely sanded easier than the good stuff.  This was to be expected, but I was shocked at how much smoother of a surface I got from this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end I decided that I liked what the BLO and tung did to the wood.  They both popped the grain and made it &quot;richer&quot;, but in different ways.  Rather than picking/choosing/overthinking it I just mixed 1 part BLO 1 part tung and 2 parts mineral spirits.  That way I could tell myself I got the best of both worlds :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could have just used the maloof finish, but I didn't see much point of using the poly in the maloof finish since I was going to get a poly top coat from the good stuff anyway.  Also though the differences were slight I preferred the pure oil to the maloof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did use the dewaxed shellac as a sanding sealer, which I was happy with.  I got a much smoother surface than I think I would have if I used the good stuff, but who knows -- I'm sure it's possible to get a very smooth surface with the good stuff as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that I used 4 coats of good stuff removing excess almost immediately.  I scuff sanded between coats.  Finally I applied neutral liberon black bison wax with steel wool and polished by hand with rags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm really happy with the finished table.  I think it looks and feels great.  Compared to another larger table I did with just good stuff I think the grain pops a lot more due to the oil.  I get a much more &quot;3d&quot; look to the figure.  The oils appear to have definitely darkened the wood in a way that I like.  The wax finish over the good stuff leaves a really nice smooth surface, which I really like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously the number one driver for the look of the finished table is the wood itself.  That stated I could have probably done anything and it would have turned out nicely, but since I chose this route I'll say it was the best!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gaZqA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="566" LastEditorUserId="566" LastEditDate="2015-06-05T07:33:41.623" LastActivityDate="2017-04-24T15:17:33.750" Title="Finishing schedule for live edge walnut slab" Tags="|technique|finishing|varnish|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1496" CreationDate="2015-05-19T09:49:03.050" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very thorough question, kudos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side point: finishing the undersides of tabletops doesn't appear to be as advantageous as most of us have assumed. Bob Flexner on the subject, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/finish_both_sides_not_necessary&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Finish Both Sides? Not necessary.&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Good Stuff contains &quot;synthetic oils&quot; (whatever that means) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be confused by this too. The only synthetic oils I'm aware of are mineral oils, which as they're non-drying I would presume would not be a desirable additive to any finish intended to dry, particularly not one intended to dry hard or tough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1-2 coats of oil (either boiled linseed, tung, or something like a danish oil). The idea of this step is to pop the grain &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; just want to highlight here for anyone who is not aware that so-called Danish oil products are usually not oils. Almost all on the market are a simple mixture of oil, varnish and additional spirits, and then sold at an inflated price to consumers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to popping the grain, oils are great at this (so is shellac incidentally, although it won't deepen the tone like you're looking to do).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether this will give you a noticeably different look to just The Good Stuff going directly on to the wood I can't say as I haven't used the latter. Ideally you'd want to do some comparisons, but with luck you will get a better result with the BLO than with the poly. BLO excels at this. Even if you don't get a significant improvement you've only wasted a little oil and not much time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1 coat of dewaxed shellac. The idea here is to provide a sanding sealer, optionally use a darker shellac (maybe amber?) to help darken the wood as well (augmenting step 1), and provide an interface to other finishing products. (perhaps this step is unnecessary if the next step isn't needed?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously shellac isn't a sanding sealer here unless further sanding will be done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless if it will, it's still a viable step if you want to do a fast finishing job: you can oil, and then shellac over the top of it without waiting at all for the oil to dry or cure. Then once the shellac has dried (wait about an hour if possible but 15-20 minutes can do it) you can go straight to your first coat of varnish. Using this method you can go from oiling through to 3 coats of varnish in a single day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also tried varnishing directly over still-wet BLO using poly thinned to wiping-varnish consistency (about 1/3 to 1/2 added spirits) and not had any issues with drying. But in this case the second application of varnish usually needs to wait until the following day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Pore filler. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is entirely up to you. The open-pored look and the filled look each have their fans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;From what I understand I think I'd want to use an oil based pore filler. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you've sanded with 220 you're in a good position to make your own pore filler if you're interested, by simply blending the sanding dust with BLO (boiled linseed oil) or varnish. Varnish is a better bet as it dries hard and dries faster, but many traditionalists have used BLO for this and are happy with the performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(Maybe I can combine the first three steps into one step by wet sanding the oil and using the slurry as wood filler?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general I wouldn't recommend this as it's not the ideal way to fill grain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, from the photos it looks like your wood could be a very good candidate for this method. If you go ahead with this step be patient when waiting for the pore filler to harden up. Pause for at least a full day, but it can be worth waiting an additional 24 hours or longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Rub out the good stuff with sand paper up to ~1200 grit to get a satin finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rubbing down would be to flatten off. If all you're seeking to do however is knock back the sheen you can do this in a single step, using fine steel wool or something like ScotchBrite. This can be done dry or with wax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2015-05-19T17:21:39.340" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T17:21:39.340" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1498" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1499" CreationDate="2015-05-19T12:40:17.493" Score="8" ViewCount="8082" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to build a cabinet with MDF boards like the ones I see at work. They are using some kind of hardware but I'm not able to find any instructions on how it works and I don't know what its name is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rAB6B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Joint&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found the actual screws in hardware store. as you can see below &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6pgQ0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the seller doesn't know how to install them. Can someone tell me what is the name, and point me to a guide or video showing how to install them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="626" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2015-05-20T02:05:42.027" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T10:11:09.417" Title="What is the name of the hardware used in these MDF joints?" Tags="|joinery|screws|mdf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1498" CreationDate="2015-05-19T13:31:34.543" Score="10" Body="&lt;h1&gt;What you have there&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The names of those are Cam Fittings, Furniture connectors or Flat pack connectors or variations of those phrases. These are a favorite amongst economical furniture suppliers (IKEA is a good example) as it enables the consumer to build it themselves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are typically used for joining wood at a 90 degrees. While they are not the strongest join they are great for easy reassembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also worth mentioning that they are used not just in MDF but particle board as well. If I had to guess that is what is actually under that veneer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Video Tutorial&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z6_JMLUm6-I&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;simple video&lt;/a&gt; that explains using specific hardware but the logic is the same. I don't think it is possible to provide detailed measurement based instructions since I do not know the dimensions of your hardware but the basics are you need to make 3 holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Basic Design&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Warning&lt;/strong&gt;: Ignore the measurements on the pictures below. Those were designed for specific hardware and might not match what you have purchased. Those shots were included for clarity and nothing more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The larger hole, in the picture below, is where the screw will be eventually placed. The smaller hole is where the bolt will slide through. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ObtKY.png&quot; alt=&quot;Bolt path and nut housing&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The connecting piece will be where the bolt is fastened to. This will pair up with the smaller hole in the picture above. The white piece is an expander that would go into this hole and helps hold the bolt in place&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LO6GA.png&quot; alt=&quot;Bolt anchor location&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This next picture show the two blocks &quot;assembled&quot; together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pGz8U.png&quot; alt=&quot;Board position before final assembly&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;All images were taken from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z6_JMLUm6-I&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;House of Hacks video&lt;/a&gt; linked above&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, you want all of the holes to be perfect 90 degree angles. Using a drill press would be an obvious tool but space might not allow you that luxury. The suggestions from &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/89/how-do-i-ensure-my-drill-is-perfectly-vertical-before-cutting-a-hole-in-my-desk&quot;&gt;How do I ensure my drill is perfectly vertical before cutting a hole in my desk?&lt;/a&gt; would be a good resource to consider. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is strength in numbers so it is best to have several along the length of the join. I have not found a good reference for how many. I should think at least 1 every 3 feet with a minimum of one on each end (&lt;strong&gt;Speculation&lt;/strong&gt;). Using some dowels a spacers will help stop lateral movement and are and easy addition. If you do use dowels remember to only glue one end ( if any ) to allow for dis-assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Matching the holes is important but you are allowed some margin for error as the bolt will assemble to the nut at a &lt;em&gt;slight&lt;/em&gt; angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;At this time I do not know the significance of the white part. Possibly a guide for the bolt. Will have to research.&lt;/strike&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T15:05:35.573" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1500" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-19T15:15:56.800" Score="21" ViewCount="157333" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some 6' long 2&quot;x12&quot; planks of douglas fir that dried into a twist, I need to straighten it out but I don't want to plane this any thinner. So basically I'm trying to bend the board back into shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of doing something like physically twisting the board the other way past its yield point, and hoping the board does not snap. Maybe I could try steam bending to straighten wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am planning on making 6' long benches and shelves with this material, for indoor use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="453" LastEditorUserId="453" LastEditDate="2015-05-20T14:21:07.893" LastActivityDate="2024-01-07T16:07:17.320" Title="How do you straighten/bend wood planks without removing any material?" Tags="|warp|douglas-fir|bending|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1500" CreationDate="2015-05-19T15:23:39.877" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Steam bending would be your only option. Wetting the fibers and allowing them to bend and twist.  It might not work, but there is a chance.  Not using a moister measure, you will just split the wood where the stresses get to great.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On top of that, you will have to redry the wood back to where you need it and you will need to keep a lot of weight on it so it will dry flat.  Otherwise it will just rebend and twist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Birch likes to bend and twist when it dries, but if you keep it flat with weight (like more drying wood on top) it will dry flat and stay that way (mostly).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately it will be a bit of work and it might be easier to just acquire new lumber for your project.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T15:23:39.877" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1500" CreationDate="2015-05-19T17:31:30.130" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bending using heat (usually steam) is one of the only ways to bend wood reliably. But, when a board twists as it dries that is usually not permanently fixable because the wood may have 'taken a set'. So while you could steam, bend back to perfectly flat and hold it there until it has cooled, and it may stay that way initially, it is likely to have a natural tendency towards warping back to the twisted shape again in time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of this, generally, when a piece of wood does twist or bow when drying the usual way to get flat wood from it is to remove material until a flat board is revealed from within the bowed board. Obviously there can be a significant loss of thickness when doing this (and some loss in width) and sometimes it is so great that the board can't be used as originally intended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T17:31:30.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1503" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1504" CreationDate="2015-05-19T18:36:18.893" Score="14" ViewCount="18587" Body="&lt;p&gt;My router came in a plastic tool box called a &lt;em&gt;systainer&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is made in a way that the bottom could interlock with the top. this means I could stack multiple of these boxes and lock them together for transport. I thought that this is a way to convince me to buy more tools from the same manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But recently I noticed that the tool boxes of a professional carpenter from festo look similar and I wondered if they would be compatible with mine.&#xA;In a store I that visited today I saw that tool boxes from hitachi had a suspiciously similar shape and locking system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are all these boxes in fact the same box system that different manufacturers use? Is this some kind of open standard like screw heads, bit diameters, etc.?&#xA;Are the &lt;em&gt;systainers&lt;/em&gt; from different brands compatible with each other? What other &quot;features&quot; does a systainer have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="443" LastActivityDate="2021-09-24T08:44:31.727" Title="Are systainer tool cases of different companies compatible with each other?" Tags="|storage|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1503" CreationDate="2015-05-19T19:10:42.003" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most notable feature of these storage systems is that you can stack one case on top of another and engage one or more latches to securely fasten it to the case below. The idea is that you can stack as many as you want, though stacking them in this manner quickly becomes impractical in terms of actually accessing your tools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D9HbQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Systainer stack&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://festoolownersgroup.com/workshops-and-mobile-vehicle-based-shops/festool-stack/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the purposes of this discussion, I'm going to use the term &lt;em&gt;compatible&lt;/em&gt; to refer to cases that were designed to latch together with strategically-placed latches, recesses, and tabs. When two or more cases are latched together, you can lift a stack of them with a single handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Systainer is the brand-name for interlocking tool cases manufactured by Tanos. Systainers included with Festool and Fein tools are compatible with each other, as well as with other Systainers manufactured by Tanos. The current line is called T-Loc, but these can still be stacked on top of the older Classic Systainers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several competing lines of interlocking storage containers which are not compatible with Systainers. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bosch's L-Boxx line of tool cases is compatible with other L-Boxx cases manufactured by Sortimo, but not with Systainers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;DeWalt has two different lines of interlocking toolcases, Tough System and Tstak. Unfortunately, you cannot mix-and-match between the two lines.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stanley also sells its own interlocking tool cases, but their line is not as consistent--for example, the smaller-size Stanley cases are not compatible with the larger sizes, even though they use similar interlocking systems.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you aren't sure whether a case will be compatible with your existing case(s), you can usually tell just by looking at the product dimensions. With most of the systems, the footprint is the same for all the cases in a product line, and the cases only vary in height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-05-19T19:45:53.823" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T19:45:53.823" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1500" CreationDate="2015-05-19T19:45:59.383" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other answers have covered how you can bend the wood, but one thing they left out relates to the length of the wood.  The following applies to some other defects too like bows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mentioned you have 6ft boards, but you don't say what your final board length will be.  If the length will be shorter than 6ft, then it would be advisable to cut them to approximate length before attempting to correct the defect.  The twist might be noticeable over 6ft, but it won't be as severe over 2ft, you might even get a 2ft section with no noticeable twist. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have a shorter board, you will have an easier time correcting it.  In the case where you are removing material, you will end up removing a lot less wood than if you did the entire board at once. This applies to running wood through a jointer as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T19:45:59.383" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1503" CreationDate="2015-05-19T20:50:41.403" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Systainers are all made by, or licensed from Tanos.  There are two main styles - the classic style and the TLoc.  The TLocs can stack on top of the classics, but not vice-verse.   Several vendors, most notably Festool, but also Metabo, Fein, Makita, Veritas, and Mirka either use or offer as an option Systainers for their tool storage.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also purchase empty systainers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 4 different footprint sizes of systainer.  Maxi are available only in the classic style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mini (10.43&quot; wide x 6.73&quot;deep x 2.80&quot; high)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Normal (15.59&quot;wide x 11.65&quot; deep) and 4.13&quot; - 16.53&quot; high&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Midi (19.52&quot; wide x 11.65&quot; deep) and 6.2&quot; - 8.26&quot; high&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maxi  (23.46&quot; wide x 15.59&quot; deep) and 6.2&quot; - 8.26&quot; high&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normal, Midi, and Maxi systainers are available in different heights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sys I - 4.13&quot; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sys II - 6.20&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sys III - 8.26&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sys IV - 12.40&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sys V - 16.53&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oZNcz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Systainer TLoc Sizes&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can quickly determine the size of a systainer by looking at the horizontal ridges below the label area.  If there are none, it is a SYS 1, 1, a SYS 2, and so on, up to 4 for a SYS 5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drawer systainers are also available with several different drawer configurations.  They stack anywhere a classic systainer will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ONbgB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Drawer Systainers&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/Search.aspx?action=n&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lee Valley&lt;/a&gt; for other systainer options, including carts and toolboxes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2018-01-19T22:19:13.043" LastActivityDate="2018-01-19T22:19:13.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1507" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1509" CreationDate="2015-05-19T21:23:06.973" Score="8" ViewCount="1019" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a worm drive circular saw that I have converted to a track saw using the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eurekazone.com/product_p/ezts36.htm&quot;&gt;EZSmart system&lt;/a&gt;. It's no Festool but it does okay. A few passes with a jointer plane is usually all I need to make a glue-ready surface.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;The blade on the circular saw is the stock &quot;Fast Cut Framing&quot; blade. I'm certain this can't be helping the matter. If I upgrade to a finishing blade, will it be enough to cut out the hand plane work?&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Also, most 7-1/4&quot; blades don't specify if they are for ripping or crosscutting. Does it not matter with these saws?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="81" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T22:52:27.590" Title="Can a track saw make glue-ready surfaces?" Tags="|table-saw|circular-saw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1507" CreationDate="2015-05-19T22:32:54.130" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, your circular saw or track saw can produce a glue-ready surface, as long as you have a high-quality, sharp, carbide-tipped blade installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are definitely different types of blades for circular saws, as with table saws, and the configurations usually fall roughly in these ranges:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rip: 20-30T (around 20-30 teeth)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crosscut/combination: 50-60T&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just as with a table saw, if you use a rip blade for crosscutting, you may be disappointed with the cut quality. Many crosscut blades are actually advertised as finishing or combination blades and work fine for ripping, but take longer to make the same rip cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manufacturer of your blade may give it some other classification, and if it's just a cheap steel blade it probably won't produce glue-ready surfaces (or at least, it won't any more after making a few cuts). The 60T (60-tooth) blade installed in my 7-1/4&quot; circular saw is advertised as an &quot;Ultra Finish&quot; blade, and it produces very smooth cuts that I would consider as good as the cuts made by the &quot;glue-line rip blade&quot; for my table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-05-19T22:52:27.590" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T22:52:27.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1507" CreationDate="2015-05-19T22:50:31.010" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also, most 7-1/4&quot; blades don't specify if they are for ripping or&#xA;  crosscutting. Does it not matter with these saws?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's because most people don't want to stop and change blades just because they're cutting in a different direction, and often the wood you cut with a 7 1/4&quot; blade is dimensional lumber, etc., so general purpose combination blades are popular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But they do make rip and crosscut blades in the 7 1/4&quot; size. As with table saw blades, the differences are mainly the number and shape of the teeth. Crosscut blades have more teeth than rip blades, and they're more likely to have beveled (ATB) teeth where a rip blade is more likely to have flat top (FTG) teeth. That said, there are plenty of ATB blades marked for ripping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I upgrade to a finishing blade, will it be enough to cut out the hand plane work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That depends on what kind of work you're doing, what kind of wood you're working with, and what your standards are. If you're trying to create an invisible seam for, say, a guitar top or a piece of fine furniture, you'll likely still want to take a pass with the plane. Using the right blade for the job should at least improve the cut surface; only you can say whether it improves it &lt;em&gt;enough&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T22:50:31.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1510" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1512" CreationDate="2015-05-19T22:54:54.727" Score="8" ViewCount="9647" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to cut some of those decorative ends in a pergola that I'm making. I know that I can trace a pattern onto wood, cut with a jigsaw, rinse and repeat. I'm looking for a way to speed it up, and make the cuts more uniform. I was thinking perhaps I would make a template, use that template to route a shallow guide line, then quickly saw through all of the rest of it using the jigsaw. Any more  suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="629" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T20:56:53.727" LastActivityDate="2021-01-26T16:33:41.040" Title="What is the best way to cut pergola ends?" Tags="|router|jigsaw|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1510" CreationDate="2015-05-19T23:11:48.560" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I was thinking perhaps I would make a template, use that template to route a shallow guide line, then quickly saw through all of the rest of it using the jig saw&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That sounds like more work than using a template to draw a pencil line and then following with the jigsaw alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the jigsaw-only method gives you satisfactory results, that's probably the fastest. For a cleaner cut, you could cut close to the template with a jig saw and then use a pattern bit in the router for the final cut. That should go pretty quickly and give very good results. The only problem is if there are inside corners in the profile: a router obviously can't get into tight corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T23:11:48.560" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1510" CreationDate="2015-05-20T02:33:40.480" Score="8" Body="&lt;h1&gt;It depends on your pattern&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the suggestions on the web refer to using the jigsaw for cutting patterns. It is the ideal choice for this work as some patterns are intricate with arcs and what not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you could do with the jigsaw is use your template as a guide. If your arcs or curves are simple enough you can shift the template down from where the cut will be. This might be difficult depending on the plate of your jigsaw and angles in your design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That does not mean you are limited to just the jigsaw and the hand cramps that might ensue. Depending on your pattern you might be able to use some other tools to do the work as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mitre Saw&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rW5Tq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mitre Saw helping the pattern&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The jigsaw cuts a full arc across the board and then the mitre saw cuts the 45 degree angle. Yes you could have done this all with the jigsaw but this is cleaner and faster. The pencil mark on the saw is a guide so you don't need to measure every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Circular Saw&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QHWwQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A simple pattern like that could &lt;em&gt;almost&lt;/em&gt; be done just with a circular saw. I doubt that is your pattern but one of the cuts might be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could make a simple jig for the saw using another board as a cutting guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pattern Bit on a router&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your boards are thin enough, and you have a appropriately sized bit, you might be able just to use a pattern bit on your router (assuming it's big enough). I have never tried a router as of yet but depending on how many cuts you need to make this might be over-kill for the router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if your bits were long enough you could flip the board and template to cut from both sides. In theory giving you that perfect cut you are looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In conclusion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You didn't show us what &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; are doing. Hopefully there might be a way of incorporating other tools into your template to help with that repeatable precision you are looking for. Much like &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/1511/128&quot;&gt;Caleb suggested&lt;/a&gt; your jigsaw and pencil will be your main tools here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the ground though I don't think people are going to be paying attention to the intricacy of your cuts. Using a router I think is wasted effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T12:46:59.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1513" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1519" CreationDate="2015-05-20T18:34:53.973" Score="12" ViewCount="3559" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to replace the blades on our Powermatic Model 60 jointer, and was considering carbide blades.In particular I saw &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00M0NSNFE&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this cutterhead&lt;/a&gt; for the Powermatic Number 53, which is a 6 inch vs. the model 60's 8 inch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that I can find a helical cutter head that will work for the Model 60:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does this type of cutter compare to a traditional knife design? In particular I'm concerned with the quality of the cut: it appears as though it might leave a cut that isn't perfectly flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HkOw8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;6 inch cutter head&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="180" LastEditDate="2015-05-20T18:41:36.570" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T13:33:53.760" Title="jointer cutter head : segmented spiral vs traditional knife design" Tags="|tools|jointer|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1514" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1518" CreationDate="2015-05-20T18:38:24.510" Score="10" ViewCount="6834" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am replacing the cutters in my jointer and debating between high speed steel and carbide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the advantages and disadvantages of HSS vs carbide jointer blades?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T19:59:55.980" Title="Carbide vs. high speed steel in jointer blade" Tags="|jointer|blade|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1513" CreationDate="2015-05-20T18:50:48.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While only a partial answer I would still consider it one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How does this type of cutter compare to a traditional knife design?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one obvious advantage to the pictured design is that if one of the blades gets nicked or damaged you only have to rotate the one head as supposed replacing or re sharpening the entire blade. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The individual heads are numbered so you know if they were rotated and how many times. This will get much more play time and is most likely designed not to be sharpened but rotated 3 times and then replaced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the price your money goes farther with this design. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cut Quality&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cut from these blades can be described from great to leaving scallops or snipes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each head is individually calibrated to it is important, even if the unit is new, to ensure that the heads are faced appropriately and the screwed torqued as per manufacturers recommendations. The blades on the heads to appear to be slightly rounded. However the locations of the &quot;rows&quot; do compliment each-other suggesting that a clean cut is more certainly possible. Sanding would remove any minor mistakes (Which should be done with regular blades anyway). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible that the negative reviews of these heads could be linked to poor calibration. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-05-20T20:10:06.463" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T20:10:06.463" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1513" CreationDate="2015-05-20T19:00:39.100" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Helical cutter heads are easier to keep sharp: carbide is harder than steel, the teeth can be rotated to a new side three times,  and when it's time to replace the teeth you don't have to muck about with adjusting their exact height; that's automatic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the head is damaged (e by metal embedded in the wood) you can replace just those teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Helical heads are much quieter than traditional heads, since they're continuously in contact with the board rather than slapping it with a knife three times per rotation. The downside of that continuous contact is continuous load on the motor; you may not be able to take as deep a cut in a single pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And helical heads cost more, whether retrofit or original equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So there are some minuses. If you aren't running a lot of stock thru the planer, and it has easily-sharpened or easily-replaced blades, upgrading may not be cost-effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Switching over to helical segmented heads can be a bit of a pain -- you've paid for the old head you're no longer using, and you need to disassemble the machine fairly far. If you already have a planer in good condition and don't mind that hassle -- and if an hc head is available for that model! -- replacing the head is worth considering. If you don't feel like wrestling with it, selling the old one and buying one factory-equipped with a helical head is certainly simpler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T19:00:39.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1513" CreationDate="2015-05-20T19:22:07.743" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few points in addition to the good ones already posted:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Helical cutter heads are set up to 'slice' material away, hence the cant of the individual cutters as well as the spiral placement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leaves a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; smooth cut, assuming a good cutter head design (I seem to recall some problems with early chinese made models.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had both, I prefer helical carbide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T19:22:07.743" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1514" CreationDate="2015-05-20T19:52:15.717" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;All else being equal, anytime you have a choice between HSS (high speed steel) and carbide, you have to consider the tradeoffs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;High-Speed Steel&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cheaper up-front&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easier to sharpen&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less brittle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disadvantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Potentially more expensive long-term (depending on application)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wears faster (must be sharpened or replaced more frequently)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Carbide&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Theoretically more cost-effective long-term (depending on application)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More wear-resistant (often praised as lasting 10x as long as HSS)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disadvantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More expensive up-front&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More difficult to sharpen&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More brittle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When does it matter?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking at long jointer knives, high-speed steel is a proven material, and if you happen to completely trash your knives by running nails through your machine, the knives aren't very expensive to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking at a cutterhead with segmented knives or inserts, carbide is a good choice because at worst you'll shatter the inserts that hit the nails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-05-20T19:59:55.980" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T19:59:55.980" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1513" CreationDate="2015-05-20T20:25:22.687" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cutterhead you pictured in your question is a Byrd Shelix cutterhead, which produces a shearing helical cut using square, 4-sided carbide inserts. There are also other configurations of segmented cutterheads with carbide inserts which produce cuts of varying quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contrary to popular belief, helical cutterheads--even the widely-acclaimed Byrd Shelix cutterheads--do not produce perfectly smooth cuts. In fact, the surface is ever-so-slightly scalloped, as you will see if you rub chalk on it or apply finish without sanding first. However, it is easy to remove the scallops by sanding, using a card scraper, or with a light pass of hand planing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Long-knife cutterhead&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically these are referred to as straight-knife cutterheads, but there are also some machines on the market that have long helical knives which run the entire length of the cutterhead. I would consider those machines more similar to straight-knife cutterheads than segmented helical cutterheads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less expensive up-front&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On many machines, knives can be resharpened several times before replacement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On many machines, you can eliminate nick tracks by shifting one or more knives side-to-side so the nicks are staggered.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On machines with disposable knives, it's easy to replace the knives and you don't have to reset the height because the knives are indexed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Often produce a slightly cleaner cut than segmented cutterheads on straight-grained wood.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less demanding on motor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disadvantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Produces tearout in figured wood&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can be more expensive to maintain long-term.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Knives can be difficult to set properly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you trash your knives, you need to buy a whole new set.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Segmented cutterhead&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are numerous configurations of segmented cutterheads, from 2-sided segmented knives to 2- or 4-sided square inserts. In addition to the cutter configuration, there are multiple cutter placement/alignment configurations. Byrd's cutter inserts are skewed to follow the helical alignment, producing a shearing cut; and the edges are slightly rounded to prevent gouging due to the cutting/skew angle. Other cutterhead designs align the cutters in either a helical or V arrangement, but typically the entire edge of each cutter slams into the wood at once (as with a straight-knife design), rather than producing a shearing cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Produces less tearout in figured wood&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cutters are easy to rotate or replace&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can usually (always?) rotate the each cutter at least once before needing to replace it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cutters index directly in place and don't need to be fine-tuned&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inserts are often carbide and last as much as 10x longer than steel inserts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you trash the cutters (e.g., by hitting a nail), at worst you probably just need to replace the ones that were damaged; you don't need to replace all of them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disadvantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Square-insert segmented heads produce a slightly scalloped surface (though they are easy to remove with light sanding, and some configurations are worse than others)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More expensive up front&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More demanding on motor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contrary to conventional Internet wisdom, side-by-side comparisons have found helical heads to be more demanding on the motor. In the tests, machine fitted with a helical head drew more amperage than an identical machine fitted with a straight-knife cutterhead. The current explanation for this is that a cutter is always engaged with the material, producing a constant load on the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to Bob Hunter of WOOD Magazine, upgrading a benchtop planer to a segmented cutterhead is an iffy proposition for two reasons: (1) the motor may not be up to the task, and (2) segmented cutterheads produce better results with a larger cutterhead diameter than what is available in a benchtop machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-05-28T13:33:53.760" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T13:33:53.760" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1520" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-21T03:02:47.497" Score="12" ViewCount="650" Body="&lt;p&gt;What qualities should I look for in woods to be used in outdoor furniture and what are some examples of woods which have those qualities?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What finishing options do I have for weatherproofing wooden outdoor furniture?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-06-19T01:26:21.073" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T02:52:28.183" Title="Choosing wood and finish for outdoor furniture" Tags="|finishing|furniture|wood-selection|outdoor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1520" CreationDate="2015-05-21T08:52:42.800" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main concern for outdoor use is usually exposure to moisture and subsequent rot. Woods that are used outside should either have high decay resistance or be well protected from the elements by chemical or physical means. I'll explain:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Decay resistance: Cedar, redwood, white oak are a few woods with natural decay resistance that can be exposed to moisture with a lower tendency to rot than other woods. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;But chemical treatment (&quot;pressure treated wood&quot;) can be applied to less decay resistant wood to get excellent weatherability. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally, physical barriers are finishes like paint that, when applied and maintained correctly, completely encapsulate and protect any wood from the elements. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your options for finishing are basically two: paint for opaque, and spar varnish for clear. Spar varnish is more flexible than other clear finishes, allowing it to expand and contract with the wood and the seasons without cracking and flaking. And it has UV inhibitors to prevent degradation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T08:52:42.800" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1522" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1523" CreationDate="2015-05-21T10:15:27.327" Score="8" ViewCount="394" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some years ago I saw an article about how to rip wood and put the pieces together again so the twisting was reduced (part A twisted opposite part B so the result still was straight).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have since then looked for said article to no avail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have a good explanation for tricks and rules for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-06-04T23:05:34.653" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T23:05:34.653" Title="Direction of grain when making stiles and rails for a door" Tags="|rip-cut|door|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1522" CreationDate="2015-05-21T13:08:22.660" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally how I do it is after ripping the wood, line them all back up.  then flip every other board over the long way.  If the board wants to cup, flipping every other board reduces how much it can cup, because each one will want to 'bend' in the opposite direction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By flipping them the long way it also helps with bows and twisting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oFo5E.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-05-21T13:16:54.383" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T13:16:54.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1524" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1526" CreationDate="2015-05-22T01:49:45.590" Score="11" ViewCount="4934" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a router bit box to store all my router bits of various sizes (¼ and ½). I want to have a see-through closing lid.  In order to do so, I will frame a sheet of Plexiglas (1/8&quot; thick) in wood.  I couldn't find a sheet with dimensions close to what I need, so I bought a bigger one.  I now need to cut it to length.  I wonder how should I do it on a table saw.  I don't need a perfect cut.  All four edges will be hidden by the wood frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've searched a bit online and people are suggesting a high teeth count blade.  I'm thinking of using a cheap circular saw blade of 7¼&quot; with 100 teeth or so.  Will that give me an appropriate cut?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-05-22T03:41:10.243" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T06:43:44.583" Title="How to cut Plexiglas on a table saw?" Tags="|technique|table-saw|blade|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1524" CreationDate="2015-05-22T02:11:15.723" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The people at my local plastics place would say yes. (Their specific suggestion was 10&quot;, 80T.) They also said feed fast, though not so fast as to be unsafe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T02:11:15.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1524" CreationDate="2015-05-22T03:51:38.473" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although you do want a high tooth count for a higher-quality cut, an ultra-high tooth count can be detrimental. With a 100T 7-1/4&quot; blade, you'll have to cut more slowly and may burn the plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If using a 7-1/4&quot; circular saw blade, use a high-quality 50-60 tooth blade, which will perform similarly to the 10&quot; 80T blade that Aloysius Defenestrate's local plastics company recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To help protect against chipout at the edges, you can either tape the cut line or you can sandwich your Plexiglas between two thin pieces of sacrificial plywood or MDF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming your plastic is, indeed, Plexiglas (acrylic), you can polish the edges with a torch. Do NOT use a torch on the edges of Lexan (polycarbonate), because you'll just melt it. If you aren't sure which type of plastic you have, acrylic is bright when you look directly at the edge, while polycarbonate is dark when you look directly at the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-05-22T03:56:48.783" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T03:56:48.783" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1524" CreationDate="2015-05-22T13:19:49.370" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plexiglass works well with a craft knife too. If you score it a couple of times with a straight rule, it should snap cleanly along the break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="636" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T13:19:49.370" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1528" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-22T17:48:31.247" Score="11" ViewCount="3353" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many different types of engineered wood out there with different names which can be misleading. To be a little more specific these are some examples I currently use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;particle board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;plywood&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;press board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;chip board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MDF&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to be sure that when I use these terms that I am actually using them correctly. I have even seen here at WW some people admittingly using the wrong terms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not looking for how these are used or a comparison between. I just want to know what they can be called and what they look like. Characteristics are OK as long as they help in describing the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-06-19T01:18:33.117" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T01:18:33.117" Title="How can I identify some of the common engineered boards/panels?" Tags="|wood-selection|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1528" CreationDate="2015-05-22T17:48:31.247" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;At least in North America I would consider these to be the more common encountered engineered wood products. &lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; While some of the pictures are large this is be design so everyone ( Some people are better at seeing than others ) will be able to see the detail. There might be different regional names for these which I can add later &lt;em&gt;assuming they are correct&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;MDF&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternate Names: Medium Density Fibreboard&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Appearance: Uniform appearance and usually perfectly flat. Close inspection will show the small fibers that make up the boards composition. Typically brown but can come in other colours, like blue and red,  to represent special properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further Reading: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medium-density_fibreboard&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia article on MDF&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bclwX.png&quot; alt=&quot;Corner of MDF Boards&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://buying-guide.capricoast.com/articles/mdf-medium-density-fiberboard/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;CapriCoast&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;OSB&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternate Names: Oriented Stand Board, Sterling Board, Aspenite, Pressboard&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Appearance: Non-Uniform pattern across all dimentions. Easiest way to tell is the face has the varying coloured(browns, oranges and reds) and shaped wood flakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further Reading: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oriented_strand_board&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia article on OSB&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RJkWd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;OSB&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oriented_strand_board&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Plywood&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternate Names: N/A&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Appearance: The face of plywood will look very similar to that of flat-sawn wood. There will almost always be seen repeating pattern of knots and grain. The side will usually show the plies of similar height like stacked paper. It is likely that some plywoods will have those plies not perfectly parallel throughout the entire board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further Reading: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plywood&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia article on Plywood&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ISWFx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Plywood&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plywood&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Particle Board&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternate Names: Chipboard&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Appearance: The face should be nice and flat but the easiest is to look at the sides where you will see the large (by comparison to something like MDF) wood chips. It is also expected to see hole from where chips were removed from the cutting process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further Reading: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Particle_board&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia article on Particle Board&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AmSam.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Hardboard&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternate Names: High Density Fiberboard, Masonite (Brand Name)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Appearance: &lt;em&gt;Very&lt;/em&gt; similar to MDF in appearance but is usually thinner stock. A specific brand of hardboard called Masonite has that hash appearance seen on one side in the picture. Normal hardboard has two clean flat faces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further Reading: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hardboard&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia article on hardboard&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://stimson_lumber.s3.amazonaws.com/cache/b5/25/b5254c5201ebe0852a5873967903ed7e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hardboard&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stimsonlumber.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stinson Lumber&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Comments&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't normally like linking to Wikipedia but most of the good images came from there. Also manufacturer sites can be biased as well. The whole point of this was mostly the pictures anyways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notations from above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure pressboard is a synonym for OSB but I won't stake my career on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hardboard was the only one I was fuzzy about. Perhaps its just MDF? It's like the backing you would see on bookcases and what not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T19:02:31.980" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1524" CreationDate="2015-05-22T18:52:42.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you bought the Plexiglas at a brick-and-mortar home improvement store, most will cut the material for you for free, or for at most a nominal fee.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our neighborhood Lowe's has a score-and-break rig all set up for this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="442" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T18:52:42.517" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1524" CreationDate="2015-05-22T18:53:05.090" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to add in at least a little something. It is possible to have the best of both worlds of &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/1526/128&quot;&gt;Rob's answer&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/1527/128&quot;&gt;slartibartfast's&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At less risk of tear out and flying shards you can use the table saw at an angle in the area of 45 degrees to score the material. How deep you go would obviously depend on the thickness of your stock but you don't need much when you are scoring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You still might need to have a board there to help move the piece allow the blade and something like a push stick would still be recommended. With a good fence this makes it easier to do a straight line (assuming you are terrible scoring other-wise.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would also reduce the risk of damage due to heat to the material. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T18:58:18.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1532" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1535" CreationDate="2015-05-22T19:58:56.993" Score="11" ViewCount="5947" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was considering acquiring a Japanese style saw from Lee Valley. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a small collection of tenon saws and regular saws that would, it seem, already serve the same purposes as most of the Japanese equivalents. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there practical reasons to purchase Japanese saws to add them to my collection or are these just something I want to purchase as a gimmick?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-05-22T20:32:43.097" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T16:50:33.677" Title="Comparison of Western saws and Japanese Saws" Tags="|hand-tools|hand-saw|traditional-techniques|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1533" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1534" CreationDate="2015-05-22T20:02:00.327" Score="6" ViewCount="299" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretty much just what the title says. I would like to know the different styles of Japanese saws and what each one is designed for. I am aware of Dozuki and Ryoba but I will assume there are others. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2015-05-23T11:57:16.623" Title="What are the different styles of Japanese Saws" Tags="|hand-tools|hand-saw|traditional-techniques|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1533" CreationDate="2015-05-22T20:22:22.457" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Dōzuki (胴付(鋸))   A type of backsaw. The Japanese means &quot;attached&#xA;  trunk&quot;, thus a saw with a stiffening strip attached, i.e., a backsaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ryōba (両刃)   Multi-purpose carpentry saw with two cutting edges. The&#xA;  Japanese means &quot;double blade&quot;. There is a cross-cutting (yokobiki)&#xA;  blade on one side and a ripping (tatebiki) blade on the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Azebiki (あぜ引き)   A small ryōba saw used for cutting into the flat&#xA;  surface of a board rather than from the edge. The blade has a convex&#xA;  curve which can begin the cut anywhere on the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Mawashibiki (回し引き)   A thin saw used for cutting curves, the Japanese&#xA;  version of a keyhole saw. The name means &quot;turning cut&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The text is copied with pride from &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Japanese_saw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia/Japanese saw&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-05-23T11:57:16.623" LastActivityDate="2015-05-23T11:57:16.623" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1532" CreationDate="2015-05-22T20:22:36.760" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few common differences between Japanese and Western saws:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A decent Japanese saw is often cheaper than a decent Western saw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The body mechanics of sawing are different--with a Japanese saw, you cut on the pull stroke and stand more in-line with the cut, whereas with a Western saw you cut on the push stroke and stand at an angle to the cut (so your arm moves like a piston).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A Japanese saw has a thinner kerf than a Western saw (which may be an advantage in some situations)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Because the saw plate is so thin, the teeth on a Japanese saw dull and break off more easily than those on a Western saw. For this reason, if you are limited to buying only one or the other, Andy Chidwick recommends the Western backsaw over a Dozuki because it will last longer (more sharpenings, and longer between sharpenings).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the required body mechanics are different for the two styles of saws (in particular, the two styles of backsaws), it can be difficult to switch back and forth. This is why many people have strong preferences for one or the other--those people probably got very good at using one style of saw, and when they tried to apply the same body mechanics to the other type of saw, it didn't work very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're perfectly comfortable using a Western backsaw, a dozuki may not give you much practical benefit, but if you're having a difficult time learning to use a Western backsaw, a dozuki is easy to learn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, some types of Japanese saws complement Western methods nicely. For example, a ryoba or flush cut saw works great for flush-cutting dowels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-05-22T20:36:24.550" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T20:36:24.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1536" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1537" CreationDate="2015-05-23T04:25:57.600" Score="6" ViewCount="229" Body="&lt;p&gt;So a long time ago I inquired about a project regarding a board game table. Well, we planned it out, scouted the wood, bought it, cut it up, and now we're on assembly! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the outer visible portion of the table I have this beautiful red oak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very, very, foolishly, I got different wood for the drawers, legs (which even the legs have different colors in them, partially pink/white), and a pull out extension. Basically we bought whatever wood best fit our needs. There weren't 3x3 posts, 1x6s, 1x4s, and 2x4s all in red oak at home depot. It was only 1x8s. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to show off the natural tone of the red oak, but I also want the piece to be cohesive. Do you guys have any clever tips to maybe mask/hide/stain the disparate wood, and let the red oak shine through? Or did I just make a blunder that will teach me a lesson for future projects?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any help! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="387" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-05-23T18:12:51.020" LastActivityDate="2015-05-23T18:12:51.020" Title="How can I finish a piece consisting of multiple species to yield an overall cohesive appearance?" Tags="|finishing|staining|coloring|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1536" CreationDate="2015-05-23T05:16:15.813" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;At this point, you have numerous options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace the mismatched parts with red oak.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Experiment with dye and/or stain on several scrap pieces to try to get them to match the coloring of the red oak. This will be incredibly difficult, and even if you do succeed, they may age differently.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rather than trying to match the red oak, experiment with dye and/or stain on several scrap pieces to try to find a nice contrasting color.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Veneer the mismatched pieces with red oak.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt; Paint it all!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I think options 3 and 4 are potentially the most promising. You could even do a combination, veneering the drawer faces and legs, and staining/dyeing the pull-out extension a contrasting color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For future reference, you could have bought all 1x8 pieces of red oak and made all of your other pieces from that by ripping down to the appropriate sizes and, in the case of the desired 3x3s and 2x4s, you could have laminated multiple 1x3 or 1x4 strips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2015-05-23T05:16:15.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1532" CreationDate="2015-05-23T06:28:57.740" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are there practical reasons to purchase Japanese saws to add them to my collection or are these just something I want to purchase as a gimmick?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite their obvious excellent qualities to be honest I think the answer is more in the realm of the gimmick/curiosity than a needed addition to the arsenal of a Western woodworker. In part this observation is based on all the fine work produced in the past by craftsmen who had never seen an Oriental saw, as well as the current work done by cabinetmakers who choose not to use Japanese saws despite their easy availability. I think this alone conclusively shows they fulfil a &lt;em&gt;want&lt;/em&gt;, not a &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rob's excellent answer covers nearly all the bases on the pros and cons but I have a couple of clarifications/expansions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re. the thinness of kerf. It's not entirely accurate to say that Japanese saws have a thinner kerf. They &lt;em&gt;tend&lt;/em&gt; to be much thinner than the Western saw intended for the same function — most pronounced in 'panel saws' — as due to their pull action the saw plate can be significantly thinner because it doesn't need to resist buckling when pushed against the wood. But there are some Western saws intended for cabinetry that are every bit as thin as a Japanese saw (with a shallow saw plate and stiffening spine used to resist buckling).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re. tooth breakage, in addition to the thinness of the saw plate this is also partly down to the unusually long teeth. So even Japanese-style saws (see more on these below) with thicker blades than you would tend to see on their made-in-Japan counterparts are more prone to tooth breakage than a traditional Western saw intended for the same cut. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related to the above point, one important aspect of Japanese saws that needs to be mentioned is that because of their historical development the tooth geometry developed largely for working on softwoods and softer hardwoods. As a result there is a strong argument against Japanese saws for woodworkers who primarily work in hardwoods, particularly in harder or tougher species. Easy-cutting species like American black walnut don't pose much of a problem, but you only have to go to other common species like oak and hard maple for a challenge to the delicate teeth on a Japanese saw. Multiply that risk manifold if working on dense tropical hardwoods. Regardless of what you use them to cut, the expression &lt;em&gt;&quot;let the tool do the work&quot;&lt;/em&gt; has never been more apt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For anyone who would like to try the mechanics of an Eastern saw without going the whole hog and buying a Japanese saw at some expense, then there are a number of Western-made saws with similar tooth geometry that cut on the pull stroke. Most are not very fine-toothed, but at least you can try out the pull-stroke cutting action for yourself at a modest outlay. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the thing you're after is a very thin-kerf fine-cutting saw, for dovetailing for example, it's very easy these days to get the impression online that Japanese saws are the only way to go. But of course this is nonsense because there has always been a need for this kind of cut in Western joinery. There are conventional Western backsaws of the &quot;gent's saw&quot; style, that have blades every bit as thin as their Japanese equivalents. These may be marketed as &lt;em&gt;razor saws&lt;/em&gt; and in some cases they have extremely fine teeth: 32tip and above are available. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-05-23T06:28:57.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1536" CreationDate="2015-05-23T12:14:26.663" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding to rob's answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is nothing wrong with using different woods in a project and most projects have a couple different ones in them any way.  Most drawers are made of a cheaper wood and the face is the only piece that has the more expensive wood that matches the rest of the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you have the table top, (Which I assume is where most of the oak is going) the drawer fronts, and the legs, which is going to be most of what one sees when looking at it.  The top of course is the most important piece.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not knowing what the other woods you bought are makes it a little difficult for exact recommendations, but I'll give it a try.  As rob pointed out contrasting colors can make a nice difference if done well.  I am going to assume that your 3&quot;x3&quot;'s are something like pine or ceder, a softer wood, since that is likely what you would find in those dimensions.  If ceder the red/pink/white color might 'match' nicely with the red oak.  Pine (white) could also be a decent look.  Though I would be temped to stain them a dark walnut to almost black.  This would make them become less obvious and leave the look of the table top to stand out more.  At this point I would probably either put the red oak on the drawer fronts to make them match, or put a white piece such as aspen on the fronts to make them stand out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You always have stains and paints to either make things more uniform in color or to bring out more contrast, either one can be used to make a piece attractive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-05-23T12:14:26.663" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1540" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1541" CreationDate="2015-05-23T18:17:59.433" Score="15" ViewCount="93802" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building cabinet doors for a cabinet we inherited from a friend.  The cabinet has a 3/4&quot; face frame around the caracasse.  I am investigating different hinges, but I am not sure what the difference is between &quot;full overlay&quot; and &quot;half overlay&quot; hinges.  What's the difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2022-12-07T03:31:07.560" Title="What is the difference between full overlay and half overlay hinges?" Tags="|cabinetry|hinges|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1540" CreationDate="2015-05-23T21:26:00.343" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rockler has a great guide on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rockler.com/learn/choosing-the-right-hinge-for-your-project&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;understanding hinges&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Full overlay hinges are for individual cabinets or the cabinets on either end of a run of cabinets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oSGhl.png&quot; alt=&quot;full overlay hinge&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Image from Rockler, but original page has been deleted)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Half overlay hinges are intended for pairs of doors in the middle of a run of cabinets, where two doors have their hinges mounted on opposite sides of a shared middle partition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XYMRd.png&quot; alt=&quot;half overlay hinge&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Image from Rockler, but original page has been deleted)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although the images above illustrate a frameless cabinet, the concept is the same for a face frame cabinet--though depending on your design you may get to choose whether or not you want to use half overlay with face frame cabinets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are unsure what you need, many vendors of high-quality hinges are happy to spec exactly the hinges you need based on the specs of your cabinets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2022-08-02T15:37:50.380" LastActivityDate="2022-08-02T15:37:50.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1542" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1543" CreationDate="2015-05-24T03:25:36.893" Score="12" ViewCount="1016" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the May 2015 issue of WOOD Magazine, on page 50 there is a plan for a Woven-Seat bench.  In the diagram (which I can't seem to find online, it may be copyright content) the short and long rails which form the basis of the bench seat are cut such that the tenons are cut with a 45 degree miter.  Why would someone do this?  What problem might that solve or advantage would it convey?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T02:04:54.700" Title="Why would someone cut a miter in a tenon?" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1542" CreationDate="2015-05-24T04:09:19.513" Score="17" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why would someone do this? What problem might that solve or advantage would it convey?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have two rails joining a leg at right angles to each other, you sometimes need to miter the tenons to prevent them from interfering with each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't seen the bench you're talking about, but it sounds like a typical case where you have rails connected to legs with mortise and tenon joints. If the tenons on the rails reach to the center of the leg, they will of course bang into each other when they're inserted into the mortises. To prevent that, you miter the ends of the tenons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative would be to shorten one or both of the tenons so that they don't reach so far into the leg, but shorter tenons mean joints that have less resistance to racking forces. Mitering the tenon shortens just the inside cheeks while allowing the outside cheeks to stay long, providing a little more mechanical strength and glue surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; There are some drawings of table-rail joints with the tenon ends mitered &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodworking.com/ww/Article/Mortise-and-Tenon-Joints-7613.aspx&quot;&gt;in this article&lt;/a&gt; at the heading &lt;em&gt;Three-dimensional Frames&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2015-05-25T02:04:54.700" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T02:04:54.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1544" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-24T17:26:28.010" Score="4" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a kitchen base unit (frameless type) out of melamine plywood. Regarding the assembly of the &quot;box&quot; is it OK for the side panel to rest &lt;strong&gt;on top&lt;/strong&gt; of the bottom panel, where the screws will go up from the bottom? This means that the edge of the bottom panel will be visible, though that is not an issue for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most, if not all, of the pictures and videos I have seen so far the side panel goes adjacent to the bottom panel, and the screws goes in from the side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-05-24T22:21:12.450" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T16:37:15.060" Title="How to assemble kitchen base unit cabinet?" Tags="|assembly|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1545" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1548" CreationDate="2015-05-24T20:50:11.703" Score="9" ViewCount="2983" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to build a rustic wood chair. My first rustic wood furniture ever. Doing rustic wood is really complicated for me because the wood is very uneven like this:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T2gic.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;What sander should I use for something like this? At the moment I do the sanding manually but thats a LOT of time. I'm thinking on buying a Dremel 3000 or Dremel 4000 but not sure that it's the best for this kind of job. I don't have too much experience in sanding and woodworking, I just like this style and love the DIY things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="645" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-08-05T21:27:07.270" LastActivityDate="2023-05-17T00:20:36.697" Title="Best sander for rustic wood" Tags="|furniture|power-tools|sanding|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1545" CreationDate="2015-05-25T00:16:41.083" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd guess that this involves a great deal of hand-sanding, if you sand it at all. A detail sander , especially one that can take shaped sanding-block attachments, might speed some of it. Other shaped sanding blocks/sponges/probes might also help. Cabinet scrapers might be another surfacing approach if you know how to use and sharpen those... but basically, if it isn't fairly flat you should expect to have to surface it by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T00:16:41.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1545" CreationDate="2015-05-25T00:25:55.210" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Coming from a traditional stand point you might not even need to use any power tools. Depending on how you are able to remove the bark you might just be able to get away with hand sanding. Pictured in the question is a large bed which could be tedious to do how I am going to suggest but you are just looking to do a chair. That won't be as bad as doing the bed by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How you are removing the bark could play a large role&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can get the bark off nicely I would think that this would remove much of the need to clean up the wood by hand. I cannot give recommendation for every species but some wood peel better in the spring (like poplar and some cedars) right after they are cut and there are many others that would fair better being peeled only a few weeks/months after they are felled or removed. My suggestion in this case would be to research debarking your particular type of wood. Given the right circumstances you could be able to remove the bark by stripping it literally by hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shifting to a power tool suggestion many have used power washers with great success with the added bonus of not damaging the wood (Although you would likely get very wet). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way I think cleaning the bark &lt;em&gt;cleanly&lt;/em&gt; would make taking the suggestion that follows easily achievable and potentially fulfilling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clean up by hand&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your picture we see debarked wood and that's it (minus the finish of course). You might need to gouge out some knots but I don't see much past &lt;em&gt;light&lt;/em&gt; sanding here (if any). This look is supposed to be natural. I am not aware of tools that would do this but sanding by hand, for me at least, seems preferential since you will be using your hands to meet the contours of the wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would think power tools could potentially ruin that look but if you follow the &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/1548/128&quot;&gt;suggestions from Caleb&lt;/a&gt; I'm sure you would be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;From my own experience&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This example is slightly different but when I made a walking stick all I did was strip the bark by hand and remove some chunks away from the knots. The only sanding I did was to round off the knots. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T15:16:14.020" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1545" CreationDate="2015-05-25T04:57:51.950" Score="15" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What sander should I use for something like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need tools that can sand contoured objects. There are a number of options, and given the varied nature of your work you'll probably use more than one tool. Here are some choices:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;flap wheel:&lt;/strong&gt; Basically &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B003N9BTQY&quot;&gt;a wheel with pieces of heavy duty sandpaper&lt;/a&gt; or abrasive cloth inserted around the circumference parallel to the shaft. They come in different sizes, but you'll usually chuck one in a drill press, lathe, or handheld drill. They range in aggressiveness depending on the grit, stiffness of the flaps, and number of flaps.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;sanding star:&lt;/strong&gt; Same idea as a flap sander minus the wheel and with the sandpaper turned perpendicular to the shaft. A star is more appropriate for broad, gently contoured surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;sanding mop:&lt;/strong&gt; A &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00SNMM6A4&quot;&gt;sanding mop&lt;/a&gt; has about a zillion abrasive fingers. It's constructed like a very thick star that you use from the side, like a flap wheel. What you end up with is a softer version of the flap sander that's far better at conforming to contours. It'll smooth the entire surface and round off sharp edges without being too aggressive. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ViFzlabVinM&quot;&gt;Here's an interesting video&lt;/a&gt; demonstrating construction and use of a shop-made mop.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;sanding brush:&lt;/strong&gt; This is again similar to a flap wheel with narrow finger-like flaps, but in this case the fingers are backed up with brush bristles that let them push a little harder. &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0000DD2WL&quot;&gt;Here's one from Grizzly,&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NKt5KFHKPCQ&quot;&gt;here's a video showing one in use.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;pneumatic drum:&lt;/strong&gt; Similar to any other drum sander, but the drum is inflated with air. You can vary the pressure to change the amount of give in the drum to make it more or less friendly to contours. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,42500&amp;amp;p=45190&quot;&gt;Here's one from Lee Valley.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;buffing wheel:&lt;/strong&gt; The piece in your photo shows a pretty glossy surface, so you might want to do some buffing after you apply a finish. There are lots of &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00LYVFA1S&quot;&gt;buffing wheels&lt;/a&gt;, mops, and other polishing tools available for use with a lathe or bench grinder, and many will work well for contoured work.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the kind of work you describe, I think &lt;strong&gt;a sanding mop or sanding brush is a good place to start.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T04:57:51.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1549" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1550" CreationDate="2015-05-25T06:53:52.113" Score="7" ViewCount="1847" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to make a series of boat's hulls from a single block of wood. My first consideration is how to semi-accurately model the complex geometry of the stern and bow of a ship. The models only have to be optically accurate and will not be used for wave modeling or scientific analysis, but nevertheless the geometries are pretty complex. Has anyone had similar projects who can help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="646" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T22:52:13.867" Title="How to shape a toy boat's hull accurately?" Tags="|boat-building|toy|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1549" CreationDate="2015-05-25T07:10:08.777" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One method for reproducing complex curves is to mill the surfaces of the block flat and parallel, and then use a drill press to drill a series of holes to measured depths. You can then start removing stock by any means: band saw, hand planes, sanding, etc. until you've just barely removed the evidence of the holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is to create a series of templates for use with a plunge router -- one template for each depth. This would leave you with a hull with a series of steps, and you'd again have to remove the remaining stock. This is a sort of manual version of CNC routing (which is yet another possibility).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to make several identical copies of the same hull, the fastest way (not counting jig construction) is to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.guitarsite.com/news/gear/guitar_cloning_machine_not_so_futuristic/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;build a copying jig/pantograph&lt;/a&gt; for your router. You could then create the first model by any means (such as 3D printing, plaster casting, etc.) and make as many copies in wood as you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2015-05-25T07:17:41.123" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T07:17:41.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1549" CreationDate="2015-05-25T12:25:46.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, I think your best bet is to get CAD files and use a CNC machine.  First this would make it a lot easier to replicate the work and it can be done in relatively short order.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't/don't want to buy one (understandable, I don't have one nor likely to either) there are different places that you can rent/pay to use them.  I think some Maker Spaces have them, there are other communities as well.  And some shops will let you bring in your CAD files and put it on their machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And while this isn't wood working, you can also get/buy/use 3D printers to print the whole ship and some of them can have very fine detail indeed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T12:25:46.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1544" CreationDate="2015-05-25T12:37:58.607" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As LosManos said, a picture can be very helpful in these kinds of situations.  However, I think I have an idea what you mean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It really has to do with what kind of strength the board need to provide to the case.  Melemine does not have a lot of strength to hold a screw from pulling straight out.  So if zipping in screws to the bottom is what is mostly going to be holding the top and bottom together, it will be fairly weak.  If you don't plan to move it, such as permanent kitchen cabinets, then this isn't such a big deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, I would make a stronger frame on the inside where you can put shorter screws through a cross member (without going all the way through the melamine) This would be a stronger case and less stresses on the screws in the weak material, the shearing forces would be better than direct pulling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T12:37:58.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1544" CreationDate="2015-05-25T17:34:39.827" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Setting the sides on the base is fine -- good, even -- as long as you have structural support between the floor and the base of the cabinet. That way, the load on the cabinet is being carried by wood, not screws. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way you've seen it elsewhere is generally because the sides go all the way to the floor (thus carrying the load directly through the sheet goods). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And your comment about the bare edge might be solved with &quot;edge banding tape&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T17:34:39.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1545" CreationDate="2015-05-25T17:41:16.680" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made furniture like this.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use an angle grinder with flap disks to remove any dead wood and do any shaping required, and then the same grinder with a hook and loop pad attachment and various grades of sanding disks.  Down to 120 grit is usually enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="647" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T17:41:16.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1555" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1558" CreationDate="2015-05-25T19:13:26.383" Score="5" ViewCount="1562" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to make some of &lt;a href=&quot;http://bellevuewoodshop.com/parallel-clamp/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these parallel clamps&lt;/a&gt; that use a pipe for the bar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SXgBf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bellevuewoodshop.com/parallel-clamp/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one advantage that commercial parallel clamps have over these is that the clamp faces will always line up; with the Bellevue Woodshop design it is possible to rotate the moving piece so the faces don't line up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thought is to glue a small rectangular strip of wood under the pipe along its entire length, and cut a corresponding space (keyhole?) out of the moving part of the clamp. Is this a reasonable solution? Is there another way to prevent the clamp from twisting? Or should I reconsider trying to prevent this twisting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="281" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T07:57:54.047" Title="How can I prevent homemade pipe clamps from twisting?" Tags="|tools|clamps|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1555" CreationDate="2015-05-25T19:32:11.487" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the clamp is sitting on a flat surface, it won't twist when you're tightening it down. (And then if it is tight, it won't twist either.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But to answer your question, you could run 1/4&quot; threaded rod, nutted firmly to the front and the back, and through a free-running hole in the moveable part of the clamp. That won't totally control twist, but I think it's a good start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neat clamps, btw. Love the maker spirit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T19:32:11.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1555" CreationDate="2015-05-25T21:41:14.530" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nah, I wouldn't bother trying to stop the twist. You can turn the face 180 degrees and use it like an expanding clamp, or a jack. There's a lot of neat things you can do with two jaws that don't have to be parallel. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T21:41:14.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1555" CreationDate="2015-05-25T22:37:17.817" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;your idea of adding a rib to keep the heads in line has merit and will do what you are wanting.  However, my pipe clamps are similar in that the movable part can rotate all the way around the pipe.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally once you start tightening things down they don't twist and are not a problem.  On top of that as TX Turner pointed out, sometimes not having them parallel is actually a benefit you can take advantage of. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2015-05-26T07:57:54.047" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T07:57:54.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1559" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1561" CreationDate="2015-05-25T22:42:04.400" Score="10" ViewCount="16301" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a small 20&quot; x 24&quot; x 1&quot; pine board that happens to be 1/4&quot; to 1/2&quot; too wide for my needs -- the 20&quot; side needs to be more like 19.7&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the easiest/cleanest way for a beginner like me to shave this off? Would running a planer across the side work? Or would it work to take it off with a circular saw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="648" LastActivityDate="2017-11-18T09:42:30.343" Title="Easiest way for a beginner to reduce a pine board's width by 1/2&quot;?" Tags="|technique|tools|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1559" CreationDate="2015-05-25T22:51:16.353" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am assuming you don't have a bandsaw or a table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a couple saw horses that you can use to clamp the board onto, then mark your line and using the circular saw to cut the line.  if you leave just a little bit extra, then you can use the hand plane to true up the surface and fine tune the final size.  if the edge doesn't need to be pretty then just cut off exactly what you need with the saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even a hand saw can be used, but it takes a little more practice to make a nice long straight cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T22:51:16.353" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1559" CreationDate="2015-05-25T23:45:42.750" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest way is to use a table saw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a table saw, then yes, a circular saw would work pretty well. If you want a nice straight edge clamp another straight board or other straightedge to the board so that it guides the saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To set up, first measure the distance from the edge of the saw's sole plate to the blade and then add the width that you want to remove from the board. Clamp the guide board at that total distance from the edge of the workpiece. For example, if it's 3 1/4&quot; from the edge of the sole plate to the blade and you want to remove 1/2&quot;, you'd clamp the guide board 3 3/4&quot; from the edge of the workpiece. Then you 1) put on your safety glasses and 2) run the saw down the board with the sole plate riding along the guide board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a hand plane and a way to clamp the board on edge, that'll work too. Draw a line 1/2&quot; from the edge of the board and just plane to the line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2015-05-26T06:10:49.933" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T06:10:49.933" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1544" CreationDate="2015-05-26T05:22:48.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple reasons why it's preferable to have the sides extend all the way to the bottom, rather than having them rest on the bottom. First, it looks nicer--you have one continuous piece all the way down the side. Second, it provides a little more structural support against racking. Whether you're using screws or nails and glue, attaching to the bottom across multiple axes (vertical for middle partitions, horizontal for the ends) adds strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if you simply attach even a partial back to your cabinet, that will add all the racking resistance you need. Adding a face frame on the front will help, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mentioned that you're using screws, and it sounds like you're mostly using butt joints for construction. If you don't want to be able to see the screws on the outside of the cabinet, you should consider using pocket screws and/or gluing and screwing solid wood cleats to all the plywood pieces. Screws run through the edge of a piece of plywood can split the plywood, but screws through the face hold better. Normal wood glue doesn't stick very well to melamine, so if the plywood is coated on both sides, you may need to use polyurethane glue (Gorilla Glue's namesake adhesive).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-05-27T02:51:02.717" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T02:51:02.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1559" CreationDate="2015-05-26T05:58:32.610" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Caleb mentioned, a table saw is the easiest way to shave off 1/2&quot;, since it will also guarantee that the newly-cut edge is parallel to a flat edge registered against the fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A circular saw with its base/shoe registered against a straight board also works, as Caleb mentioned, but can be a pain to set up because of the offset from the shoe to the blade. (I can't tell you the number of times I spent 10 minutes or more measuring and fine-tuning the setup for a cut, clamped everything in place, and forgot to account for the offset. Sometimes I realized it before I made the cut, but not always.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To eliminate the offset from the equation and save yourself from a lot of wasted time and/or mistakes, consider making a zero-clearance straightedge guide or homemade tracksaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ohAcu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;zero-clearance straightedge guide&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wwgoa.com/article/shop-made-circular-saw-guide-cheap-easy-and-awesome/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A homemade or commercially-available parallel edge guide like the Kreg Rip-Cut would also work reasonably well with a circular saw and will require less setup than a straightedge for repeat cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mFDuP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Kreg Rip-Cut&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kregtool.com/store/c48/saw-attachments/p79/rip-cuttrade/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another solution is to use a router. You can either use a straightedge guide similar to one of the circular saw guides, or you can use a (top-bearing) pattern bit or (bottom-bearing) flush trim bit. Flush trim bits are slick because you can construct your project with the excess edge extending past the adjoining face, then use the flush trim bit to trim the edge exactly to the face. Whenever you use a router, remember to take light passes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iiNhZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;flush trim router bit&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/dovetailed-tool-box&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-05-26T06:21:45.920" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T06:21:45.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1564" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1565" CreationDate="2015-05-26T13:42:00.343" Score="13" ViewCount="47687" Body="&lt;p&gt;The string holding my key to the drill broke and I didn't notice at first. I have a couple of drills so I don't have to change the bits often. I am aware that I can buy a new key for my drill but that does not help me at this moment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to change bits in this drill until such a time that I can replace the key?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T11:13:54.417" Title="What can I do if I lose the chuck key for my drill?" Tags="|power-tools|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1564" CreationDate="2015-05-26T13:42:00.343" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Losing a key is definitely inconvenient but you don't need to pack up for the day just yet. This will also work for a drill press  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;What you need&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Large flat head screwdriver&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill bit that fits ( not the drilling end ) where the chuck key would have been placed. There are other items that will work just as well but the butt of a drill bit fits nicely in the hole so as to not damage the bit or the drill. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;What to do&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Place the drill bit in one of the chuck key holes. Use a glove when holding the bit so you don't slice you hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the bit as leverage the screw driver can turn the chuck using the gear. Essentially mimicking the action of the key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UhbTQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Using screwdriver and bit&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;The above picture is a still from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MIegFURsGFE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; showing the same procedure.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Another approach&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used this approach a few times however some people will warn you that it is possible to damage the chuck doing this. Certainly there can be cosmetic damage but I have older drill so this does not bother me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this you will need a set of locking, tongue and groove or interlocking pliers to grip the chuck and a drill bit just like in the previous solution. As &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/users/91/keshlam&quot;&gt;keshlam&lt;/a&gt; points out a strap wrench would also work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the pliers to grab the chuck. If you are worried about the jaws marking up the drill you can use a spare glove, piece of leather or something similar to wrap around the chuck first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Place the drill bit in one of the chuck key holes. Again, use a glove when holding the bit so you don't slice you hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MxRNe.png&quot; alt=&quot;Pliers and bit in place&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;The above picture is a still from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AtB1MTYtgt8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; showing the same procedure.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the have the above all set then it is just a matter of holding the bit still so that use can use the pliers to rotate the chuck. You can also move both simultaneously... doesn't really matter. Just whatever feels comfortable. That's it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T13:57:26.093" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1564" CreationDate="2015-05-26T13:56:27.587" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another solution, for variable-speed hand drills: there are rubber rings that can be stretched over the chuck, to provide a safe grip for using the motor to tighten and loosen the chuck. (Many newer drills have such a grip designed in.) It won't generally grab as strongly, but for most purposes it's good enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To prevent losing the chuck key in the future, tape it firmly to the power cord near the plug. That also guarantees that you remove the key before applying power. Annoying but effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T13:56:27.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1564" CreationDate="2015-05-26T15:11:43.773" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The perfect tool for this job is a pipe wrench--or, ideally, two of them. A pipe wrench is designed specifically to grip a round object tighter as you apply more tangential force. If you use the two pipe wrenches in the same manner as your router wrenches, squeezing the two handles toward each other with one or both hands, you'll be able to get the chuck at least as tight as you can get it with the key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you only have one pipe wrench, you can make your own hardwood wrench with bolts that fit into the key holes on the smaller part of the chuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use a pipe wrench in place of the tongue-and-groove pliers in one of the methods mentioned in Matt's answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with the tongue-and-groove pliers method described by Matt, you can wrap the two parts of the chuck with cloth or rubber to prevent marring. When possible, I use pieces of rubber cut from an old bicycle inner tube to prevent marring with my pipe wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am aware that I can buy a new key for my drill but that does not help me at this moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to finish a project and can't wait 2 or more days to receive a key bought online, your local hardware store may stock chuck keys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also post an ad for a chuck key and/or drill on your local Freecycle group, Craigslist, Facebook buy/sell/trade groups, etc., or borrow one from a neighbor or friend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-05-26T17:29:27.160" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T17:29:27.160" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1549" CreationDate="2015-05-26T16:53:04.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;All the answers so far assume you're looking for a power tool method (and you probably are), however, since you indicate that you're working in softwood, you may want to consider a couple of carving knives and a few evenings on the front porch. Your first couple might have a few rough spots, but I'm told you can get the hang of it reasonably quickly, especially for the type of quality you're indicating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T16:53:04.390" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1570" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1579" CreationDate="2015-05-27T02:51:09.323" Score="9" ViewCount="14443" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a peg cribbage board and want to make a peg compartment with a sliding door. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks almost like it would require a Dremel tool, but was wondering if anyone has any techniques for accomplishing the task. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/82qYK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;under-side of cribbage board with peg compartment and pegs&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="652" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-05-27T04:31:13.610" LastActivityDate="2019-02-08T02:41:33.230" Title="How can I make this cribbage board peg compartment?" Tags="|technique|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1570" CreationDate="2015-05-27T03:42:55.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;They probably used a small slotting bit in a router table, or something similar. Of course there's nothing that requires using that particular compartment design...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T03:42:55.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1572" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-27T03:48:58.757" Score="3" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;As some of you may know, I am making my first ever project: a board game table. It's not going so well! Here are some pictures: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RSHC3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RSHC3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;board game table under construction&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sRogk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sRogk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;board game table under construction&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Iqlnk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Iqlnk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;board game table under construction&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2TwIi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2TwIi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;board game table under construction&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The red lines on the first picture are the drawer railings outside to outside on the top. The blue lines are the drawer railings outside to outside on the bottom. I have a few questions regarding my table and a few issues that maybe you guys have good ways to sort out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do these measurements matter a lot? I assume they do. My drawer seems like it's getting pinched when I push it in. I squared off all the corners on the drawer box, leveled all the railings, leveled the two pieces of wood long side to long side and short side to short side. The only thing that isn't &quot;perfect&quot; are these measurements. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;My table bows in the middle slightly. It goes from 49&quot; to 49.5&quot; and then back to 49&quot;. It was supposed to be 4 ft, not 4ft 1 inch! grrr!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Two of my corners don't come together nicely. Sand it down? Plane it down? What should I do to make these corners come together or at least have the illusion that they do? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How the heck do you move screws over 1/16th of an inch while keeping everything level by yourself? I have no one helping me with this and I've spent the last 5 days leveling railings and adjusting pieces of wood by 1/16th&quot; and I'm at wits end! &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have any suggestions/comments? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="387" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-05-27T10:58:40.077" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T10:58:40.077" Title="Do these discrepancies actually matter?" Tags="|measurement|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2015-05-27T17:36:31.307" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1572" CreationDate="2015-05-27T04:23:29.087" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't worry -- almost nobody builds perfect furniture the first time out. (Certainly not me!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To your specifics: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You need your drawer assembly to be parallel. Seriously. It'll be no end of woe if it isn't. I'm not entirely sure how it's in there, but if you can take it apart, temporarily brace it dead parallel, then re-integrate it with the box, your life will be better. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clamp the corner, remove the screws, tighten the clamp to the point where the crack isn't visible, refer to #4 for screw therapy, and re-screw. If you don't happen to have clamps that long, use strapping/string/whatever is strong enough, and then twist a bar in it to tighten it up.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To move screws over, plug the old holes with toothpicks and glue, drill a pilot hole where you want it, and screw it back together.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck. You're doing fine!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T04:23:29.087" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1574" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1575" CreationDate="2015-05-27T06:48:07.707" Score="8" ViewCount="15643" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm constructing a cabinet that has doors that are flush against the adjoining wall/cabinet.  (technically, another cabinet in an RV)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I use the &quot;full overlay&quot; version of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/blumreg-110deg-soft-close-blumotion-clip-top-overlay-hinges-for-frameless-cabinets-hinges&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;these hinges&lt;/a&gt;, how do I know how much of a gap to leave between the door and the adjoining cabinet?  The two cabinets are flush.  (See illustration below)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, if I have two cabinet doors as shown in the illustration below, how much of a gap do I need between them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm doing a Sketchup of my design and I need to know how much space to leave so I cut the doors to the right size.  I tried checking the installation instructions for the hinges, but I couldn't find the necessary information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uIEJ8.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&#xA;Below is a diagram from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://go.rockler.com/tech/RTD10315697AA.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;installation instructions for the hinges&lt;/a&gt;.  I feel like I should be able to find the information I need here, but the key measurement I need doesn't seem to be included...  Or, maybe it is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LNFRj.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="204" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T08:36:11.770" Title="Gap for frameless full overlay hinged doors?" Tags="|cabinetry|hinges|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1574" CreationDate="2015-05-27T07:31:10.713" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;With those types of hinge, you do not need any clearance between doors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My kitchen cupboards use that type of hinge and mostly have a 1/4&quot; gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4qYTN.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In one place there is no gap at all. I just trapped a piece of paper there with the door closed, when I opened the door the paper fell out. The door opens and closes smoothly. The hinge movement pulls the hinged end of the door inwards away from adjacent cabinets or walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mntet.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the other end I can wedge in a wooden spatula, I can still easily open the door with no noticable resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bwOEw.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd allow a gap so a solid wood door can expand as humidity changes seasonally. Other than that, there's no need for any significant gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="158" LastEditorUserId="158" LastEditDate="2015-05-27T08:36:11.770" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T08:36:11.770" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1564" CreationDate="2015-05-27T11:13:54.417" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another way I'd suggest would be to use a polymorph mouldable plastic (like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.coreshop.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&amp;amp;product_id=11044&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;) such as Friendly Plastic to create a new tool. Sort of a wrench with plastic teeth that fit the drill exactly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply melt the plastic with a heat gun or by placing it in boiling water, then wrap it around the drill. Once it has firmed up a little bit but the whole thing, along with the drill if you can, into your freezer to firm up quicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want better leverage, attach a metal bar or spanner into the plastic while it's still molten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plastic once hardened should be more than strong enough for the task. I once created a socket for a burred lug nut with an attached 3 foot pipe we usually stick over wretches for leverage and was able to chin up off of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="658" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T11:13:54.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1570" CreationDate="2015-05-27T13:17:18.450" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This could be easily cut with a T-Slot Router bit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.leevalley.com/en/images/item/woodworking/router/16j6071s3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;T-slot bit&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:50.210" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T13:17:18.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1570" CreationDate="2015-05-27T13:49:20.367" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a little search and found ISCAR has a set of T bits that can cut slots from 2mm - 5mm.  The cutting end can be removed and replaced with different thickness cutters giving you the option to have many different sized slots with one bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though after further looking it is really designed for metal cutting, it might work.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.iscar.com/Products.aspx/CountryID/1/ProductId/10155&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.iscar.com/Products.aspx/CountryID/1/ProductId/10155&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen several others and most seem to be for cutting metal and none seem very cheap.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option might be to use an angled router bit like those for dovetails. Then you can make a piece like a wedge and slide it in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SQ68Pm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-05-27T14:51:12.623" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T14:51:12.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1570" CreationDate="2015-05-27T14:59:02.243" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0000225W4&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;1&quot; diameter straight cutting bit&lt;/a&gt; on a router table to make the main compartment body. You'll have to raise it up into the workpiece to avoid having an open end on the compartment though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Aez8Em.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the slot, you can just use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000660ZDU&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;slot cutting bit&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00KZM1XBI&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;set with a bearing guide&lt;/a&gt; to follow the edge around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p1sbgm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S3kCam.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you think you'll have clearance issues with the bearing and nut, you could always get a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0017Q3Z5S&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;top-bearing slot cutter&lt;/a&gt; instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DiuOkm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T14:59:02.243" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1570" CreationDate="2015-05-27T21:10:24.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It looks almost like it would require a Dremel tool&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The slot that holds the compartment cover looks too narrow to be cut by any router bit that I've seen, and I agree that something like a Dremel tool with a fine saw blade could do the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way to approach the problem is to remove the back of the board, form the slot, and then replace the back:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rout the compartment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slice the back of the board off with a band saw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rout out the area around the compartment using a bit depth that matches the slot width.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glue the back of the board back on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this might sound like a crazy idea, but if you have a good sharp resaw blade in the bandsaw the glue joint practically disappears. People who aren't looking for it will never notice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T21:10:24.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1581" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1585" CreationDate="2015-05-27T21:14:11.333" Score="8" ViewCount="3777" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some thick boards that I'd like to make thinner.  Generally I would thickness plane the board, but in this case I'd like to reduce the thickness of the board by about half (e.g. from 2&quot; thick to 1&quot; thick or 1&quot; thick to .5&quot; thick).  Thickness planning would be a real waste of material in this case.  Is there a good way to cut a board parallel to its face such that I end up with one board of a desired thickness and another board of the original thickness - saw blade width - desired thickness?  What kind of surface finish can I expect on the new face of the two resulting boards?  The boards in question are roughly 8&quot; wide.  I was thinking I could use a band saw with a fence, but this seems pretty sketchy since the blade isn't rigid.  Can you slowly raise the blade of a table saw and use a high fence to accomplish this (doesn't seem very safe)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="566" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2019-01-29T23:42:51.597" LastActivityDate="2019-01-29T23:42:51.597" Title="What's a good way to cut a board parallel to its face?" Tags="|table-saw|band-saw|thickness-planer|resawing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1582" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-26T00:39:06.180" Score="11" ViewCount="5212" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been meaning to build a desk for a while now. I made a design with millimeter accuracy, but when I went to the home improvement store, I found that all the beams they had were crooked! Some more than others, but the only non-crooked wood they had was chipboard (particle board in the US), but it didn't come in any shape I needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, back home I did some research on wood. It appears there are several different types, most importantly regularized or unregularized. Basically one is allowed to be crooked, the other isn't. I couldn't find any exact specifications though as to what qualifies as straight (surely, no beam is perfectly straight, right?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another important bit I stumbled over is that some regularized wood is not completely dried out: does that mean it could become crooked over time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I looked into straightening the wood, but this doesn't seem to be a very viable option unless you're building a porch or something. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went back to the store and asked if they had any regularized and dry wood. They didn't know what I was talking about. Just pointed me towards the piles of planks and beams and said it's really good wood!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If wood is &quot;regularized&quot; and not dried, could it become crooked over time?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How can I tell if wood is completely dry or just sort of dry?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I were to find some unregularized wood that's reasonably straight, would it most likely stay that way?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I were to find a suitable shape of that wood that's made of chipboard, is that a viable option? I've only seen it in cheap furniture, mostly where a chip has broken off from what used to be a screw hole.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user35995" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-05-27T23:47:39.893" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T00:14:39.933" Title="How can I deal with wood from DIY stores that is crooked and may or may not be dry?" Tags="|furniture|wood-movement|wood-drying|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1582" CreationDate="2015-04-26T20:58:04.187" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't know where you are, but in my area, the wood from big box stores is extremely variable. Finding a specialty supplier will probably yield better results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wood that hasn't been dried much will probably twist and turn more than wood that has dried. That said, wood commercially dried will frequently be twisted by the time it ends up in the big box store. Your best bet is to find dry wood that isn't twisted.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The proper way to test moisture content is with a moisture meter. If you pick up enough pieces of wood, you'll get a sense of which ones are too heavy to be dry. Even if a kiln dried bit of wood comes out at 12% moisture content, it'll acclimate to whatever storage area it's in. This'll vary according to where you are.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how you're using the term &quot;unregularized&quot;, so I might not be answering your question. Wood that is dry and straight will generally stay reasonably straight. Exceptions occur... for instance when you cut a plank down its length and previously balanced forces are removed and you get two curvy pieces from one straight piece.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Chips and glue&quot;, (I'm assuming you're referring to chipboard/particleboard), comes in different grades (which is to say, higher and lower density), but are mostly crap, as they don't hold fasteners well. You need to think like an Ikea designer to make these work for you. (Not saying it can't be done, but it's extra work.) Chipboard isn't very good at bearing weight. (A long span of it as a desktop would soon sag.) The only good thing about chipboard is that it's fairly stable in terms of flatness.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other options in sheet goods include MDF (medium density fiberboard), which is really just glorified cardboard. It mostly has the same properties as chipboard, except that it's denser/heavier and a little less prone to warping. As noted, its dust is nasty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plywood is generally more substantial than either MDF or particleboard. It'll span further without sagging, compared to the others. Fasteners perpendicular to the face work pretty well; fasteners on the edges don't. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you told us more about the desk you've planned (drawings, even), you'd get more advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" OwnerDisplayName="Aloysius Defenestrate" LastActivityDate="2015-04-26T20:58:04.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1581" CreationDate="2015-05-27T21:30:55.267" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's called resawing, and generally it is done with a bandsaw.  There are blades that can make this process easier.  Getting the largest (wide) blade you saw can handle is the best way, at least for wide boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used fairly small boards and cut them in half, 3/4&quot; in half with thinner blades.  but you get a lot of wobble, especially if you don't have a fence.  This worked fine for me since I only needed 1/4&quot; from each half and thickness planed them down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But with a fence and a resawing blade you should be able to do a decent job, the biggest trick is to not force the board through, that is really what causes the blade to wander.  Of course once you have it set up, it is a good idea to run a test piece through to find any issues your setup or technique could cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a table saw, while possible I would highly recommend NOT doing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T21:30:55.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1581" CreationDate="2015-05-27T21:30:57.310" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The operation you want to do is called resawing, and is best done on a bandsaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, your bandsaw should be equipped with a 1/2&quot; or wider, 2-4 TPI blade and a resaw guide or high fence that can be easily adjusted for blade drift (just in case you haven't yet mastered Alex Snodgrass' drift-free &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;bandsaw setup technique&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oszGC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;resaw guide&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/bandsawing/bandsaw-resawing-guide/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bandsaw will leave a pretty rough surface, so after you've sliced up the board into thinner boards, you'll need to run each one through the thickness planer or drum sander (or hand planes) to clean up the bandsaw marks. If you cut the original board into more than 2 boards, keep in mind that you'll need to flatten one face on each of the inner boards before thicknessing, so be sure to cut the inner boards a little thicker than the outer boards for this reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your boards are sufficiently thick, you can also resaw on a table saw, but it's much easier to resaw &lt;strong&gt;unsafely&lt;/strong&gt; on a table saw and you end up wasting a lot more wood because of the much thicker kerf (vs. a bandsaw). If you do this, you should use a rip blade rather than a combination blade or crosscut blade; otherwise you'll have to take much shallower passes to avoid burning. Generally you shouldn't resaw all the way through on a table saw--in fact, most 10&quot; table saws can only resaw about 6-7&quot; wide boards on their own anyway. One resawing technique is take several passes cutting progressively deeper kerf in each long edge with the table saw, then finish resawing the middle on the bandsaw or with a hand saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also skip power tools entirely and resaw with a hand saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-05-27T22:27:05.933" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T22:27:05.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1582" CreationDate="2015-05-27T22:55:33.983" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might be a regional issue, but I hadn't heard the term &quot;regularized&quot; in the context of buying lumber. Perhaps that threw off the people at the store, although even if you had asked for S4S (surfaced 4 sides) hardwood lumber, the employees at a home improvement store may or may not have been able to help you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If wood is &quot;regularized&quot; and not dried, could it become crooked over time?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Believe it or not, all the &lt;em&gt;dimensional&lt;/em&gt; lumber that you see in the store was straight before it was dried. If you buy green (non-dried) lumber, it will warp as it naturally dries. That said, some cuts of lumber are less prone to warping than others. Plainsawn will show the most warping, especially if taken from small, fast-grown trees. Rift sawn will warp less than plainsawn lumber, and quartersawn lumber will warp the least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;How can I tell if wood is completely dry or just sort of dry?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a moisture meter to read the moisture content (expressed as a percentage). You'll never get to 0%, but you should wait until the wood has reached its Equilibrium Moisture Content (EMC), the point at which it is neither taking up nor releasing moisture from the air. Ideally you should work the wood when it is at the EMC for the location where it is going to ultimately live once the piece is finished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If I were to find some unregularized wood that's reasonably straight, would it most likely stay that way?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;4&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If I were to find a suitable shape of that wood that's made of chipboard, is that a viable option? I've only seen it in cheap furniture, mostly where a chip has broken off from what used to be a screw hole.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, chipboard (aka particle board) and MDF are considered dimensionally stable and will not warp with changes in humidity. Even high-quality plywood and OSB are more dimensionally stable than solid wood. However, chipboard and MDF have some disadvantages--namely, durability and appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although the big home improvement stores do sell some hardwood lumber (sometimes wrapped in plastic), it is incredibly expensive and still may not be as flat and straight as you might hope.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is to buy lumber from a hardwood dealer or lumber mill that properly dries its lumber, rather than buying from a home center or lumber yard which primarily sells construction lumber. Many lumber mills will surface 2 or 4 sides for you for a small fee, but even then the wood will continue to move with changes in humidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have your lumber, there are several techniques you can use to &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/382/49&quot;&gt;eliminate warp&lt;/a&gt;, but the key thing to keep in mind is that you should buy your lumber oversized in order to be able to mill it flat and straight as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T23:03:59.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1587" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1588" CreationDate="2015-05-27T23:41:12.277" Score="9" ViewCount="2439" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to drill a precise hole into a small cavity which happens to the parallel to the face of the piece of wood. To better illustrate this I made a simple diagram to be absolutely clear on what I'm working with here. The space is too small for me to fit any sort of drill into it. I thought about using a dremel with a flexible shaft attached but I need the hole to be as close to perfectly parallel as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1y1zl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hole needing to be drilled&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those who are familiar with guitars, this is a cavity for the springs of a floating tremolo system. I am having a lot of issues with the spring return which has to do with the hole being drilled out incorrectly. I also need to fill the old holes and probably re-drill through them. What is the best method to do this as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="663" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-05-28T05:56:12.147" LastActivityDate="2019-03-15T22:23:20.077" Title="Drilling a hole parallel to the face in a tight area, right angle drilling?" Tags="|technique|drilling|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1587" CreationDate="2015-05-27T23:53:14.167" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would be tempted to try and use a flexible drill bit.  I have a small cheap set that are about 6&quot; long.  Can't find a picture of them online.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there are many different kinds out there and many different price points but here's an example of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w6E7k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either there was an edit or I missed the part about filling and redrilling the old holes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My two recommendations are either find dowels the correct size and glue them in, and sand them flush, or get some wood filler (preferably stuff made with real wood) and fill them up well, using a nail to push it all the way in.  Let it dry and then sand it flush.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if the holes are bigger than 1/4&quot; I'd tend to want to go with the dowel approach. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-05-28T12:42:04.127" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T12:42:04.127" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1587" CreationDate="2015-05-28T04:08:54.377" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the same vein as &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/1588/128&quot;&gt;bowlturner's answer&lt;/a&gt; you could also use a off set drill adapter. Most of them are rather large for the work you are trying to do there are definitely some smaller ones out there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vxtjp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vxtjp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Flat off-set drill adapter&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://lghttp.16203.nexcesscdn.net/80802D/panam/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/447x228/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/f/i/file_6_26.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;nexcesscdn.net&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.panamericantool.com/novar-flat-offset-angle-attachment.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PanAmericanTool&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By no means advocating a particular product but I included this specific one as it had the units dimensions. I was hoping that you could lay this flat but from the looks of your specs its just a little to high. You could easily hold this at a angle with a small board to help give you more precision. If you were lucky you might even be able to stand it on end at 90 degrees with a simple block as a guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little googling shows other designs by different names like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://spenro.com/angle-drill-attachment-ati331b-offset-pancake-type-p-956.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;offset pancake type&quot;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flex bits do seem to give you more leeway. You could easily make a 1/2&quot; small drill guide with the drill press to feed the flex bit into for another degree of accuracy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2019-03-15T22:23:20.077" LastActivityDate="2019-03-15T22:23:20.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1587" CreationDate="2015-05-28T05:31:07.933" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could easily make a fixture that aligns the end of your Dremel's flex shaft to drill the precise holes. It could be as simple as a grooved guide block that you tape or clamp in place while you slide the flex shaft along the groove to drill the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all else fails, here are a few more possible solutions to consider (though I'm not sure if this would have an impact on the sound quality since you're talking about a musical instrument):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill all the way through from the other side (from the left, in your picture--assuming that's possible), then plug the hole from that side using wood filler or a dowel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut off the part that will have the hole, drill the hole, then glue the part back on. (The cut would be a horizontal line in your diagram.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Similar to #2, cut off the very top part, use a router to carve out the channel (instead of drilling it), then glue the part back on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-05-28T06:04:59.060" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T06:04:59.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1582" CreationDate="2015-05-28T06:32:02.120" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hate to say it, but wood is not usually predictable down to the millimeter, and your design needs to take that into consideration.  For example, when making solid wood panels - these can shrink, warp, twist or cup significantly in the first year after they are manufactured, and will continue to shrink for the next 100 or so years.  A design that constrains the movement too tightly may just result in the wood splitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that you're in for a lot of trouble/frustration if you haven't built some allowance for you skill level in cutting the wood accurately, and the characteristics of the wood itself.  Even if you get it panel sawed at the box store, you will find that it can vary in width by up to 1/8&quot; across the cut, and they usually only give you a +- 1/8&quot; tolerance on the absolute measure, unless you have a particularly attentive operator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest first revisiting your design to see what allowances you can build into it, and not stretching your skillset too much (at least not on highly visible pieces at first).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="665" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T06:32:02.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1524" CreationDate="2015-05-28T06:43:44.583" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two basic types of plexiglass - extruded/rolled and cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cast plexi cuts like a dream.  Extruded/rolled plexi (which is what you get from a big box store) can be quite brittle and difficult to cut without shattering the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend making a shallow cut less than half the thickness of the plexi on one side, then flipping it and doing the other, the breaking it along the cut and cleaning up the edge with a knife or file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="665" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T06:43:44.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="89" CreationDate="2015-05-28T06:53:46.553" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just get it close to vertical, and add in a cable grommet.  With these you can be about 1/8&quot; off in the hole size, and angled like a drunken monkey drilled it, and it still looks great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NdEAJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="665" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T06:53:46.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="89" CreationDate="2015-05-28T10:30:42.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mount a bull's eye level on the back of the drill.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Requires setup once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://ideas.selfelected.com/2011/12/laser-and-level-for-drilling-in-right-angle/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://ideas.selfelected.com/2011/12/laser-and-level-for-drilling-in-right-angle/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T10:30:42.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1587" CreationDate="2015-05-28T14:51:12.703" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would look at an oscillating &quot;multitool&quot; that can get its blade into the 1/2&quot; deep well space, and use a very small blade .  If you can't buy a small enough blade, cut one down with an angle grinder to what you need.  It would make a slot rather than a round hole, but you could work with it.  Much depends on how hard the wood is, and how much a cut-down blade might flex.  You might experiment with a grinding type of blade used for ceramics.  (I haven't tried any of this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="666" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T14:51:12.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1587" CreationDate="2015-05-28T20:23:50.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An out-of-the-box solution that folks often overlook for this sort of problem: I first saw this as the lazy man's technique for making half-dovetail joints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a bandsaw to perform a resawing/veneer cut, to remove the face of the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a router or whatever other approach you prefer to cut the channel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glue the face back onto the board, avoiding getting glue in the channel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Done right, all the grain will line up closely enough that you can't tell where it was rejoined. Variations of this technique can be used to make other parts with hollows that are too long, or too twisty, to drill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that some thickness is lost to the bandsaw kerf, so if possible start with a piece slightly thicker than final size and plane it down to an exact match after gluing it together again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T20:23:50.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1597" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1600" CreationDate="2015-05-29T01:18:03.413" Score="8" ViewCount="2216" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a laundry basket out of MDF.  I need to paint it.  How should I proceed once the basket is glued together?  (Sanding?, priming?, painting?, other?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T12:19:29.327" Title="What steps should I follow to properly paint MDF?" Tags="|technique|mdf|paint|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1597" CreationDate="2015-05-29T01:41:42.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can prime and/or paint the faces of MDF immediately if you wish. Sanding is not strictly necessary, although it can help primer or paint adhesion, will remove surface contaminants as Graphus mentioned in a comment below, and can smooth out small dents and scratches as WhatEvil mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Matt and WhatEvil mentioned, it's also a good idea to seal the edges (e.g., with with drywall compound) before priming and painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-05-29T12:19:29.327" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T12:19:29.327" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1597" CreationDate="2015-05-29T02:26:13.537" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There should not be much to this. One of the main advantages of MDF is that it is paint ready. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are still some things you need to consider where the drawbacks of MDF come into play. Rob brings these up in his comments so I mention them here at an attempt of completeness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weight - MDF is very dense which makes it heavy. Depending on the thickness you could end up with one heavy load. (Nothing to do with painting of course but still worth mentioning.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water absorption - A couple of points in this regard. If you have laundry in there and your MDF is not sealed against that it will make the MDF swell. The is more important at the edges like where you might cut handles or near joinery. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leading from that I would only suggest that you prime if you plan to use a lighter colour and don't want to have to worry about MDF brown ruining the look. If you do prime make sure you don't use a water based primer for reasons mentioned above. If your actual paint of choice is water based based then priming would be a good idea!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-to/article/tips-for-painting-mdf.aspx&quot;&gt;suggestions about sealing&lt;/a&gt; the edges of MDF which should be considered. This might also come into play if your basket is more that just a simple box with handles. Using a mud or spackle is recommended since, like end grain, the edge of MDF will absorb paint irregularly. Since it is likely that moisture will come into contact with this project you should do what you can to protect it. Covering all exposed edges and after it dries just sand it down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should be a good start to a great laundry basket I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-05-29T02:36:21.377" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T02:36:21.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1597" CreationDate="2015-05-29T04:54:01.150" Score="10" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Sanding?, priming?, painting?, other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;break sharp corners:&lt;/strong&gt; Sharp outside corners are easily damaged, and they don't hold paint as well as not-so-sharp corners. You can &quot;break&quot; the corners with a sanding block or just some sandpaper held in your hand. A router with a small-radius roundover bit works really well -- I use a 1/16&quot; radius bit.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;prime before painting:&lt;/strong&gt; The smooth faces of MDF can be painted without a lot of preparation, but a coat of primer will seal the surface and give the final coat a smoother finish.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T04:54:01.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1597" CreationDate="2015-05-29T08:09:25.643" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good advice here from Matt and Caleb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just thought I'd tell you how we do it where I work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We use MDF all the time, including moisture-resistant MDF for external boarding. We also sometimes run V-grooves or flutes into the faces of boards for a decorative detail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before painting, we sand all faces, paying particular attention to cut edges (so the edges of boards or any cut-outs), also making sure to sand a small (~0.5mm) chamfer to any sharp edges. Then we seal the cut edges with standard timber end-grain sealer (but you could probably use PVA glue), then paint with a primer, nib and paint with topcoat. This gives a good smooth finish every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; skip the edge-sealing stage, if you're going to have any of the edges visible, as if skipped this will give a very rough-looking edge and will absorb the paint inconsistently. A good coat of primer might do it, but it would depend strongly on the type of paint/primer you're planning to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T08:09:25.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1602" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1603" CreationDate="2015-05-29T14:32:06.580" Score="7" ViewCount="419" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/scrapers/49548-super-thin-milled-scrapers?item=50K3004&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;looking at scrapers&lt;/a&gt; and some of them mention their Rockwell Point value. Pertinent information from that page:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are a nice complement to our other scrapers and just a couple of Rockwell points harder (Rc51-53) to compensate for their lack of thickness. Scrapers measure 2&amp;quot; x 6&amp;quot; (50mm x 150mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions in that regard:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are Rockwell Points?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How are they measured (How do you determine a given objects Rockwell Points)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What effect would a cabinet scraper have if it was &amp;quot;harder&amp;quot; (Had a higher point value)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="763" LastEditDate="2020-11-25T15:19:39.967" LastActivityDate="2020-11-25T15:19:39.967" Title="What are Rockwell points?" Tags="|materials|cabinet-scraper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1602" CreationDate="2015-05-29T14:49:02.327" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Despite the difficulties of the link, I think it is referring to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rockwell_scale#Scales_and_values&quot;&gt;Rockwell hardness scale&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Rockwell scale is a hardness scale based on indentation hardness of a material. The Rockwell test determines the hardness by measuring the depth of penetration of an indenter under a large load compared to the penetration made by a preload.&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rockwell_scale#Scales_and_values&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt; There are different scales, denoted by a single letter, that use different loads or indenters. The result is a dimensionless number noted as HRA, HRB, HRC, etc., where the last letter is the respective Rockwell scale&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the effect of the hardness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First the harder metal is the longer it will generally hold a sharp edge.  So less sharpening involved.  Also the hard a metal becomes the more brittle it becomes.  This means that the edge could more easily chip or the entire scraper could snap/break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So as far as actual use, you might be able to use it to do more on harder woods with less sharpening, but you have to be more careful about chipping/breaking it.  These are fairly thin pieces of metal so the temper probably needs to be in a relatively small range to keep an edge and to be flexible.  better tempering techniques will allow it to be harder toward the edge while leaving plenty of spring in the rest of the tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-05-29T15:07:25.523" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T15:07:25.523" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1604" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-29T15:43:41.123" Score="23" ViewCount="2260" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;For the purposes of this question, please note that I am not asking for general advice on buying tools, but rather, I'm trying to identify the cases in which it may be practical and useful to have two or more of the same tool. One reason is to help new woodworkers avoid paralysis by analysis--it doesn't make sense to spend a significant amount of time agonizing over the purchase of some tools since you'll most likely want to keep at least two of the same tool in service at the same time anyway, for convenience or some other purpose.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The conventional wisdom when it comes to buying tools is that you should buy your last tool first, because you'll save a lot of money over endlessly upgrading. For example, many people start out with a cheap jobsite table saw and upgrade several times, finally ending up with a cabinet saw, when they could have just bought the cabinet saw from the start and saved a lot of money and frustration over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the flip-side, it's far too easy to overanalyze a tool purchase. When I started building my tool collection, I spent an enormous amount of time agonizing over which tools to buy. For example, I could have just bought a set of chisels for $10, or a nicer set for $60, or really nice chisels for $60+ apiece. I agonized over it for weeks before buying two nice chisels, but it wasn't until after I was given a cheaper set of chisels that I started actually using my chisels. In hindsight, I should have just bought the cheap chisels and upgraded as needed, because in the case of chisels it's good to have a nicer set for finer work and a cheaper set for &quot;banging around&quot;--scraping glue, working reclaimed wood with embedded dirt and grit, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In what cases is it useful to have more than one of the same tool (even, perhaps, the same &lt;em&gt;exact&lt;/em&gt; tool), and why? And, on a related note, when is it advantageous to buy a cheap tool first and later buy a second (or third, or fourth...), possibly better, tool of the same type without rendering the first tool worthless?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-05-30T07:13:15.343" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T00:42:21.707" Title="In what cases is it useful to have more than one of the same tool?" Tags="|hand-tools|power-tools|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1604" CreationDate="2015-05-29T15:43:41.123" Score="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing to keep in mind is that in many cases, a really low-end tool will just be frustrating. If you only need to save up for a couple months to buy better tools and your window of opportunity for woodworking will still be open at that time go ahead and wait. You may even find some great deals in the meantime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you have a choice between saving up for a year (or longer) and buying a cheaper tool now, you may be better off buying the cheaper tool now and getting some experience with it before buying a better one later. Often you can still put the old one to good use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Power Tools &amp;amp; Accessories&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Drill&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If money is tight, it's okay to pick up a corded drill for $20 or so. But now that you can get cordless lithium-ion drill/impact driver combo kits for $100 or less on sale, it makes sense to start out with a good cordless drill rather than a $50 NiCad drill. Everyone should have at least 2 drills to avoid having to constantly switch back and forth between drill bits and driving bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One for drilling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One for driving&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Additional drill(s) may be used for countersinking, other sizes of bits, or other specialty bits&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Drill bits&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drill bits dull and break. Even if you sharpen your own bits, some are more difficult to sharpen and others are cheap enough that you can basically consider them consumable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;multiples of the driver bits that you use frequently, especially those that strip and wear easily (e.g., #2 Phillips)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Router&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Practically nobody has just one router, so it hardly matters which router you buy starting out. Although it's tempting to go with the beefiest router you can afford, you don't need a particularly powerful router for handheld routing. In fact, a more powerful router might tempt you into taking deeper cuts than you should. A decent trim router is actually a very practical first router purchase, and although I've been shunning trim routers ever since they started to grow in popularity a few years ago, Marc Adams convinced me I should have bought one a long time ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trim router: incredibly versatile, and eventually you'll want one so if you're on a limited budget, you can buy a decent trim router. A nice side benefit is that the 1/4&quot; bits that you'll need to use with a trim router are cheaper than 1/2&quot; bits. Many accessories are also available, such as an offset adapter base, plunge base, angled bases, collet adapters for your Dremel (rotary multi-tool) bits, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plunge router: good for many tasks; not as good as a fixed-base router in a router table&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fixed-base router: great for mounting in a router table&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Additional routers: many people have anywhere from 5 to 15+ routers. Some might be dedicated to specific tasks for a given project to avoid constantly needing to swap and/or readjust bits, while others may each be permanently dedicated to a specific bit (e.g., a dedicated router for use with a dovetail jig).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Router bits&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's useful to have some of the same profile router bits in both 1/4&quot; and 1/2&quot; shanks depending on which router you will use for a given task.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bandsaw&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Smaller, cheaper bandsaw for scroll work/tight curves with a narrow blade&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Larger, more expensive bandsaw with deeper throat capacity and larger resaw capacity for resawing, cutting bowl blanks, and milling small logs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Table saw&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cabinet saw for accurate and precise work, less frustration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cheaper table saw dedicated to running a dado stack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Circular saw&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One circular saw dedicated to cutting reclaimed wood that may contain nails&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A second circular saw with a good blade on it, for clean cuts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Planer (and/or Jointer?)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people will swap a dull set of knives into their planer and/or jointer for cleaning up reclaimed wood. The problem is, swapping knives can be a pain or you might not have an extra set of knives on hand suitable for this purpose (maybe you just had all your knives sharpened).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A second planer or jointer can be useful to clean up reclaimed wood before processing it on your good tools. Personally, I'd suggest a second planer but not necessarily a second jointer, since a typical woodworker is more likely to have a wide planer than a wide jointer, and you can use a belt sander or table saw to edge joint reclaimed lumber after planing the faces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you work exclusively with clean lumber, then a second planer or jointer doesn't provide much benefit unless you regularly transport your machinery to a jobsite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Random Orbital Sander&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Smaller (e.g., 5&quot;) sander with a small stroke length for fine finish sanding&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Larger (e.g., 6&quot;) sander for faster sanding of large panels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Additional sanders can also have other benefits&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two sanders let you sand more quickly (one in each hand)&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Multiple sanders with different grits can save some time, though changing paper is pretty quick&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Miter saw&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether your first one is a fixed 90 degree chop saw, compound miter saw, or sliding compound miter saw, you can probably still find a use for it if and when you upgrade later on down the road:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One semi-permanently set up as a chop saw for 90 degree crosscuts on long boards or, for example, for trimming cabinet or door stiles after final assembly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One set to whatever weird angle you need to repeatedly cut today&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oscillating spindle sander&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be handy to have more than one oscillating spindle sander (or one OSS and one spindle sander attachment for your drill press) with different grits and/or spindle sizes, or one for sanding and one for buffing (a paint roller works for buffing). Depending on the type of work you do, you may or may not get much use out of a second spindle sander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oscillating multi-tool&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it's easier to swap blades on newer oscillating multi-tools, if you have to keep switching back and forth between blades, or if you have an older oscillating multi-tool on which blade changes aren't as easy, it makes sense to buy a second oscillating multi-tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lathe&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;big one in the (possibly unheated) shop&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;small portable one for inside the house or smaller secondary shop, or for travel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lathe accessories&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;multiple chucks and/or faceplates so you can work on multiple pieces without having to unmount them and hope when you remount the incomplete piece, you get it mounted exactly the same as before (more an issue with faceplates, but some guys in my turners group use the same argument for owning multiple $300+ chucks, too)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;multiple chisels/gouges of the same type so you don't have to stop and resharpen as often&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Hand Tools&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clamps, of course&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everyone knows you can never have enough clamps, though certain types are more useful than others in mass quantities. You'll want to buy most clamps in pairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cheap pipe clamps and F-style bar clamps are useful, and you can put off buying more expensive parallel clamps by using cauls.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gear clamps and cheap &quot;Quick Grip&quot;-style clamps are handy for holding stop blocks and for temporarily holding things in place for alignment. You probably won't need more than a few of these.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More expensive, heavy-duty Quick Grip and parallel clamps are useful for glue-ups&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;C clamps aren't that useful in the woodshop these days, but if you do metalworking or welding in your projects it might be handy to have a couple on hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Band clamps, corner clamps, and other specialized clamps can be useful depending on the types of projects you build.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hand saw&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Various types of handsaws in different configurations are useful depending on the type of work you do, especially joinery. These aren't exactly duplicates, but it's useful to have the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Classic hand saw (multiple lengths are convenient but not necessary)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Traditional bow saw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hacksaw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coping saw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rip dovetail saw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crosscut carcass saw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rip tenon saw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hand planes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of opinions about which 1 or 3 hand planes you should buy first, but I'll just focus on which types of hand planes you may want to own in multiples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;h1&gt;4, #4-1/2, or #5 planes in at least a couple configurations depending on what you do.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Normal&quot; setup&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Smoother&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scrub plane (e.g., if you dimension your lumber by hand)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't have a very large collection but haven't found other planes as useful in duplicate, other than perhaps getting multiple sizes of router planes or shoulder planes, for example. However, some people keep duplicates so they don't have to resharpen as often.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chisels&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll definitely want more than one set of chisels, so it isn't important to buy a good set up front. No matter what chisels you buy, you'll have to learn to sharpen them anyway, and it isn't that difficult to learn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cheap set of bench chisels to &quot;bang around.&quot; Depending on your budget, these could range from $5 to $70 for a set of 4 or 5. This set isn't necessarily for opening paint cans, but for scraping glue squeeze-out after it has dried, for working reclaimed or dirty lumber, and more generally to learn how to sharpen and use chisels. If your first chisels are expensive, you may be too afraid of ruining them. Oh, and you'll undoubtedly drop one of your chisels on a concrete floor somehow, so do that to a cheap one before you do it to a nice one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nicer set(s) for fine work. Eventually you'll want some nicer bench chisels which hold their edges better, and maybe after using a cheaper set you'll decide whether or not it's important to you to have the nicer chisels be socket chisels so you can swap handles for different tasks. You may also buy more specialized chisels, such as mortising chisels or skew chisels if you decide you like hand-cutting your joinery.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Squares&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different sizes and types of squares are handy to have. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6&quot; combination square and/or try square: convenient and easy to handle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12&quot; or 16&quot; combination square&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;framing square&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;T-square&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;speed square&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mallets and hammers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different sizes and weights of mallets and hammers are good for different tasks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Marking gauges&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's really convenient to have at least a couple marking gauges so you can leave them set to critical dimensions when laying out cuts, especially for joinery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At least two more pin or (preferably) knife marking gauges&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At least one standard-size one for general use&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Preferably a small one for easier handling when laying out dovetails&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Round wheel marking gauge for marking around curves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mortise gauge for (surprise!) marking mortises&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pencils&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have enough pencils lying around so one is always within reach.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mechanical pencils are good but buy a lot of lead&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also have a knife or sharpener handy at all times.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Marking knives&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Marking knives are good for laying out very precise lines where a pencil line would be too thick. In combination with a square, they're great for extending lines around corners and for making precise registration marks for starting cuts. You can also use them to sharpen your pencils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;various types of knives are good depending on the work you're doing, but even a hobby knife like an Exacto knife can work pretty well as a marking knife&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a knife with one side flat (not beveled) registers better against a straightedge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;(Adhesive) tape&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tape has at least a million uses in the shop, from protecting against tearout to holding pieces together, to standing in for clamps (or even making improvised clamps). Because it's a consumable, you'll always go through more than one roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;painter's tape (aka &quot;blue tape&quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;double-sided, fiber-reinforced carpet tape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;duct tape--maybe not as good as some other tapes in a lot of applications, but it usually works fine in a pinch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;whatever other types of tape you find useful&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tape measures&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with at least a half dozen tape measures floating around, I'm lucky if I can ever find more than one, and sometimes even finding that one takes me a couple minutes if I forgot to put it away the last time I used it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T15:40:03.787" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T15:40:03.787" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1607" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1608" CreationDate="2015-05-29T17:07:24.213" Score="16" ViewCount="18033" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a crosscut sled for my table saw, and I want it to slide freely. I've read various places that waxing the under side of the sled helps a lot. My question is, what kind of wax should I be looking for? I am not looking for an exact brand recommendation; more of a general idea of what aisle of the store I should be looking in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-05-29T17:32:30.473" LastActivityDate="2020-03-04T13:11:12.473" Title="What kind of wax will keep a crosscut sled sliding well?" Tags="|table-saw|tool-maintenance|jig|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1607" CreationDate="2015-05-29T17:20:13.987" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Paste wax&quot; is the go-to wax for your purpose and for waxing tool surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Avoid buying a wax that contains silicone, because the silicone can directly or indirectly get transferred onto your wood and cause problems when you go to apply finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also been told to avoid car wax since it can contain silicone and apparently it can also contain abrasives (which seemed odd to me, but I suppose any type of polishing involves abrasives...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-05-29T17:25:53.813" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T17:25:53.813" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1609" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1610" CreationDate="2015-05-29T18:28:26.510" Score="8" ViewCount="3740" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the planes I rescued from a yard sale has grooves in its sole, running front to back across the surface that contacts the wood. I'm having trouble imagining what their purpose could be, especially since planes are often used at a skew (turned slightly from the direction they're being pushed). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what have I got here, what's it designed for, and are there any special yips I should know when setting it up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2017-06-01T15:42:45.650" LastActivityDate="2020-05-25T06:35:19.003" Title="Why would a plane have a grooved sole?" Tags="|tools|hand-tools|plane|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1609" CreationDate="2015-05-29T18:35:01.667" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;One supposed advantage of a grooved, or corrugated, sole on a plane is to prevent the plane from &quot;sticking&quot; to the surface of the wood, similar to the way two panes of glass (or any two smooth surfaces) will stick together if there's no air between them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was originally intended to reduce friction by reducing the contact surface without compromising the plane's ability to produce a flat surface, though as aaron pointed out, in reality that isn't the case. You just need to wax the sole to reduce friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You cat set it up the same as you would a non-corrugated plane. As LeeG noted, a practical benefit is that there's less material to remove if you need to flatten the sole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-05-31T22:00:31.380" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T22:00:31.380" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1604" CreationDate="2015-05-29T20:03:39.330" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Grow with the tools and the job. When your subject matter expertise exceeds the abilities of the tools -&gt; upgrade them. Do not expect that great tools will automatically give great results or a great craftsman. Your skills will guide you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, first you would need to know which tool is suitable for which job because the best tool used wrong would damage it and not create the desired result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="672" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T20:03:39.330" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1613" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1615" CreationDate="2015-05-30T00:45:34.060" Score="7" ViewCount="339" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to take &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/q/1604/49&quot;&gt;In what cases is it useful to have more than one of the same tool?&lt;/a&gt; and flip it around to find out what tools are NOT useful in multiples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, I'm now looking for cases in which a woodworker eventually might own two or more of a given tool, but keeping more than one of them is difficult to justify objectively because having more than one provides little or no practical benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, this turns out to much more difficult than I had originally thought, because one most prove that there is NO situation in which the tool is useful in multiples. As it turns out, it's very difficult (or impossible, in many cases) to prove this objectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of trying to create a list of tools that are not useful in multiples, what factors should I consider in order to determine whether or not I should limit myself to just one of a given tool?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T14:42:56.403" Title="In what cases is it NOT useful to have more than one of the same tool?" Tags="|hand-tools|power-tools|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1613" CreationDate="2015-05-30T04:46:54.703" Score="9" Body="&lt;h2&gt;No single specific answer will apply to everyone.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trying to enumerate the tools that aren't useful in multiples doesn't seem helpful — there are as many valid answers as there are woodworkers. Instead, then, let's consider the criteria that anyone can use to decide whether they need more than one (or zero, two, three, or ten) of a given tool, or conversely, when they don't need more than some number of that tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The cost of a tool should be less than the benefit derived from the tool.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cost of a tool is more than just the &lt;strong&gt;purchase price&lt;/strong&gt;. Every tool takes up some amount of &lt;strong&gt;space&lt;/strong&gt; and many require a certain amount of &lt;strong&gt;maintenance&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary benefit of a tool is usually that it &lt;strong&gt;facilitates some task&lt;/strong&gt;, but there's also the &lt;strong&gt;pleasure of ownership&lt;/strong&gt; and sometimes the &lt;strong&gt;security&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;convenience&lt;/strong&gt; of having an extra copy of the tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;For most tools, the main benefit of owning more than one copy is time.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can only use one table saw, router, hammer, or 1/8&amp;quot; chisel tip drill bit at a time, so having more than one isn't necessary but might be convenient. Anything that can be done with two routers can be done with one, but having more than one lets you keep one in a router table or use multiple cutters without changing setups. It's hard to swing two hammers at the same time, but having one in the shop, one in your truck, and your tool bucket saves the trouble of moving a single hammer to different sites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The higher a tool's cost, the harder it is to justify multiples.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It'd be cool to have a second table saw that's always set up for dadoes, but I can't afford to give up that much space in my small shop. This is a case where the convenience of two doesn't match the cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;It's harder to justify multiples if they can't be used simultaneously.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clamps are useful in multiples because they're used in parallel. They're more like fixtures than tools in that they do their work &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; you've operated them. Most tools are useful &lt;em&gt;while&lt;/em&gt; they're being operated, which makes it hard for a single woodworker to benefit from more than one at a time. On the other hand, if you ever work with other people, multiples might make a lot of sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;It's harder to justify multiples of tools that are seldom used.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a tool isn't used often, you might not even need &lt;em&gt;one&lt;/em&gt;, let alone several. A single adjustable finger dovetail jig can be useful enough to justify the cost even if you only use it a few times a year, but a &lt;em&gt;second&lt;/em&gt; adjustable finger dovetail jig really doesn't provide any extra utility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T05:07:22.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1613" CreationDate="2015-05-30T12:38:08.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few main things to look at whether a tool is worth having in multiples.  For many, especially amateur woodworkers, space is going to be the primary consideration.  While it might be 'convenient' to have 4 bandsaws each with a different blade so you don't have to change them all the time, they will take up a lot of space that can be used for other things.  If you are a production shop, it might actually make sense to have more than one, because of the time savings of not having to keep changing blades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second (maybe first) biggest issue is cost.  Having 3 table saws (while also a huge space hog) to have different set ups Dado's, ripping, large flat material, etc. can be expensive.  Most woodworkers have to save up to get themselves 1 decent table saw.  They might have two if they bought a cheap one to get the job done until they could buy a good one, but whether they keep it, is both space (is there room for two?) and money (Can I sell the old one to help pay for the new one?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next considerations would be: Why do you need multiples?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answers.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If each one is, or can be dedicated to specific work, such as one table saw dedicated to the Dado stack.  This might be to help keep set up and tear down times to a minimum.  If you find yourself switching the blades back and forth a lot this might be a reason. (also just doing a better job of organizing your cuts could help!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do they actually DO different things?  Hammers are a ubiquitous tool and a generic name.  You can have a dozen different hammers and each one could have a different and unique application.  While many can be used for multiple applications, how specialized you are at specific tasks would determine if you need certain special tools, or if the old standby can work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How many people are going to need to use the tools?  In a shop of 1, chances are you can generally only use one at a time, so you will likely only need multiples of tools when dedicating one or more to specific tasks for time saving processes (such as having 2-3 drills to avoid changing drill, countersink and driver). Sharing shops or tools among several wood workers would more likely be to have multiples of the tools that cause the most contention.  If people are always waiting for the table saw, buying a second would seem to be a good idea (money and space allowing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T12:38:08.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1617" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-30T18:10:15.347" Score="3" ViewCount="827" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any ideas? I have a wide shelf which forms a bench by my bay windows, they have become sun bleached and water marks from window leaks, flower pots etc. I have removed what finish they had before and applied a clear water based lacquer. After the first coat I don't think it will be that great, so I have come to the conclusion I am going to need some sort of colour added to the finish. I don't want to use stain and don't like sadolin which I think more for exterior use. Does any one have any ideas for a good protective finish that has some colour, and one that could be used on top of my first coat of water based lacquer, but not essential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="677" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T08:39:11.917" Title="Finishing Sapele" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1604" CreationDate="2015-05-30T18:41:58.140" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend Dennis works on boats, woodworking, he got frustrated when he was on the boat and he did not have a tool and had to then go back to his workshop and get it, and the reverse is also true when the tool is on the boat and he is working in the workshop and does not have it.  For myself, I work on electronics, but I have several work benches, three in the garage and two more in the house.  There's never enough screwdrivers so I buy enough screwdrivers and pliers and wrenches so I do not spend a lot of time walking back and forth looking for that one tool I know I have, but I can't find it between the five benches, the tool kit in my car and the vehicle standing on the forecourt...  Better have more than one or I'd go crazy for one&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T18:41:58.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1619" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1620" CreationDate="2015-05-30T23:51:26.130" Score="6" ViewCount="5941" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hope this question fits here.  I just didn't know where else to turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm definitely an amateur woodworker, but I recently tried to make a Washers Game.  The square seemed too easy, so I did the octagon.  It looks great.  However, I'm really having trouble securing the PVC pipe.  I used regular wood glue, then liquid nail, but both times, it became dislodged after a few washers hit it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My next try will be to cut out a piece of plywood that will fit inside the PVC pipe, then screw that to the bottom and then glue the PVC pipe to the sides as well as the bottom of the plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this the best way?  Any clue why the liquid nail didn't seem to be enough?  Am I missing something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="680" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T14:11:19.023" Title="Having trouble securing the PVC pipe for a Washers Game" Tags="|glue|plywood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1619" CreationDate="2015-05-31T01:40:15.450" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Standard PVA wood glue and liquid nails are a little out of their element for gluing wood to PVC. I'd try a polyurethane based glue like Gorilla Glue, or maybe a two part epoxy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use Gorilla Glue, make sure to clamp the joint, since it expands 3-4 times in volume while curing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding plywood circles like you mention would probably help too. Another alternative method you may consider would be routing or drilling a groove or shallow non-through hole in the base of the box for the pipe to fit into. However, if the box bottom is under 1/2&quot; thick to start with, I'd stick with your plywood idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the future, if you need adhesive recommendations try using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thistothat.com/cgi-bin/glue.cgi?lang=en&amp;amp;this=Wood&amp;amp;that=Plastic&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;thistothat&lt;/a&gt;, which takes into account the different materials you're trying to join.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastEditorUserId="38" LastEditDate="2015-05-31T14:11:19.023" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T14:11:19.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1619" CreationDate="2015-05-31T07:54:39.967" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Polyurethane adhesives (note: there are numerous kinds) and epoxy are the go-to adhesives for glueing two dissimilar materials together. In nearly all situations I would suggest epoxy over polyurethanes for a few key reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First is that epoxies are the king of gap-filling adhesives, where no joint strength is sacrificed if the mating surfaces are irregular (both if physically not flat as well as if rough/textured). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second advantage is that no clamping is required, just having the part to be glued resting in position with only gravity holding it in place will produce a very strong joint with epoxy glue. This isn't to say that you shouldn't clamp, you can, and you should in certain situations in order to ensure parts are held in the correct alignment while the glue sets. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: in a woodworking context it's important to stress that using epoxies you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; starve your joint if you clamp very firmly (as you should if using conventional woodworking adhesives). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was going to mention ThisToThat as well but with a caution: it should not be considered the last word on bonding dissimilar materials. Use it as a starting point instead, then do further research (including asking here on Stack Exchange if you like).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any clue why the liquid nail didn't seem to be enough? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without seeing how and where the glue failed it's impossible to be definitive. But good suspects would be: insufficient glue surface area, either or both the wood and the PVA not thoroughly clean (even greases from handling can be enough to undermine a glue bond), incompatibility with hard PVC (which is noted for being a hard-to-glue material, in part because of its very smooth natural surface).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My next try will be to cut out a piece of plywood that will fit inside the PVC pipe&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That would be an excellent way to do this and ensure a firm bond. With this method you could use normal wood glues to bond the plywood face to the board. If you make a good glued joint here the bond created there will be stronger than that between the plies of the plywood itself, so the plywood would need to be physically ripped apart to dislodge it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use epoxy for both joints here if you like, or wood glue for the plywood-to-board joint, then epoxy to glue the pipe to the plywood. It would be a good idea to roughen the inside surface of the ply with coarse sandpaper to increase the glue's ability to hold on to the PVC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T07:54:39.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1617" CreationDate="2015-05-31T08:39:11.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have removed what finish they had before and applied a clear water based lacquer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Waterbase finishes are generally the least-good option here because they tend to be colourless when dry and don't 'wet' the surface of the wood as well as oil-based varnish or shellac might. These two factors combine to do nothing or almost nothing to hide the difference in colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just using a topcoat with some inherent colour (e.g. a conventional alkyd/polyurethane varnish) will go some way towards masking the bleached areas because they will tend to colour slightly more than the un-bleached areas. But very rarely would this be enough on its own to provide a satisfactory result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After the first coat I don't think it will be that great, so I have come to the conclusion I am going to need some sort of colour added to the finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately the best way to blend in colour repairs like this is to start from the wood and work up as it gives you the most flexibility (but see final point below if you can't face stripping back to bare wood).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, you might carefully stain the bleached areas to get close to the colour of the adjacent un-bleached wood, then use a coloured finish over the whole job to help blend in the slight colour mis-match. This is at heart a simple method, although more challenging to do in practice than the simple description makes it sound (isn't that always the way?) If you try this I would recommend oil-based stains as they provide the easiest working conditions, mainly due to the slowest drying time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another method is to deal with the bleaching itself, by using a wood product intended to remove bleaching. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another method is to bleach the rest of the wood to match the sun-bleached areas, then you start from a level playing field and can simply use whatever finish is appropriate for the new light colour of the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also do this entirely using finish, doing some variety of &lt;em&gt;toning&lt;/em&gt;. This can be done using commercial toners, coloured shellac or by mixing something for yourself. It's not the easiest job because for the best result you need to use spray apparatus of some kind. But acceptable results can be achieved using careful brushwork, feathering the edges, or 'pouncing' with a finish-application pad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T08:39:11.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1609" CreationDate="2015-05-31T08:57:14.233" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Terminology note: the base of a plane is referred to as the sole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grooved or &lt;em&gt;corrugated&lt;/em&gt; soles were intended to reduce friction by reducing the surface area of the metal plane in contact with the workpiece. That's the theory at least. The fact that corrugated soles did not continue to be made probably indicates most strongly that they didn't offer any significant advantage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the modern era, more than one woodworking guru has commented that they cannot notice any difference in use, especially if the flat-soled plane is kept properly lubricated with wax or tallow. Chris Schwartz for example notes: &lt;em&gt;&quot;I have planes with both smooth soles and corrugated ones, and if there is a difference in effort required to wield them, I cannot discern it.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(Read full piece &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/corrugations-stopping-stiction-or-for-suckers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for further details as there &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; other advantages.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;especially since planes are often used at a skew (turned slightly from the direction they're being pushed). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keen observation. I have wondered the same thing myself, and have been told that it doesn't make any difference. On wood that is already fairly smooth I can buy this but on wood that is still quite textured I can't imagine it &lt;em&gt;wouldn't&lt;/em&gt; make at least some difference as there are multiple arisses moving across the texture versus just the one on the leading edge of a regular plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T08:57:14.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1304" CreationDate="2015-05-31T11:39:57.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never done any wood turning, but I did a mechanical engineering apprenticeship. When we were in the turning section if the instructor ever caught us taking our hand away from the chuck and leaving the chuck key in we were punished, you soon learn to keep that chuck key in your hand, no exceptions. This lesson has stayed with me throughout my life and even now when I tighten the chuck on the pillar drill still keep the key in my hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="677" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T11:39:57.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1625" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1626" CreationDate="2015-05-31T13:42:03.547" Score="9" ViewCount="517" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was in a pawn shop recently and I saw a Stanley no. 4 plane. I do not have one of those and I probably could have talked him down to 15$.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said I am not sure how to know if a hand plane is still in good function. Would hate to buy it to only find out later if I looked at _____ that I would have known to stay away. I saw some pitting on the sole but there was no rust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When looking at hand planes what can I do to assess the tool to see if it would have a place in my collection?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-10-08T13:33:34.707" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T18:44:40.513" Title="What should I look for when aquiring a plane second hand?" Tags="|hand-tools|tool-maintenance|plane|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1625" CreationDate="2015-05-31T15:42:05.763" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ideally you want a plane with the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Critical:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no cracks or heavy wear around the mouth&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it should not be missing any parts--e.g., blade, chipbreaker, cap iron, adjustors, body (of course)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;none of the screws or corresponding holes should be stripped or cross-threaded&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Highly preferable:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flat sole&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;little or no rust&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no cracks, pitting, or chipping in general&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rust and the sole can be remedied but would be nicer not to have to deal with. I personally would consider cracks or heavy wear around the mouth a deal-breaker if you want to use the #4 plane as-is, as a #4 plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's missing parts, you can easily find a replacement blade and can probably find the other parts, but that will increase your cost, of course, and you won't be able to use it until you do find replacement parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the plane is badly damaged, you could use parts from the plane to fix another plan or you could make an infill plane. If you were looking at a wooden or transitional plane you could just replace the worn wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-05-31T16:24:41.873" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T16:24:41.873" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1627" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1632" CreationDate="2015-05-31T16:10:22.190" Score="5" ViewCount="2529" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/1626/128&quot;&gt;an answer to my question&lt;/a&gt; about second-hand plane purchasing that talks about making an infill plan. What is an infill plane and how is it different than a basic hand plane?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On basic appearance it looks similar to a block plane. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T20:27:59.597" Title="What is an infill plane?" Tags="|hand-tools|plane|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1544" CreationDate="2015-05-31T16:37:15.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say it's not a modern method to have any wood going down to the floor. Good quality cabinets sit on plastic legs keeping all wood above any leakage from washing machines, dish washers, fridges etc. Just looked at mine and surprisingly the sides do not sit on top of the bottom panel, but screw to the side. They do have very good fixing system not just screws, they support a granite work top so must be strong enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="677" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T16:37:15.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1629" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1694" CreationDate="2015-05-31T18:31:39.997" Score="9" ViewCount="4701" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just put my used Powermatic 64 Artisan's Saw together. When the belt is attached to the motor, it makes a sound that seems like something is unbalanced. When the motor spins freely without the belt attached, the sound goes away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have uploaded a video to youtube demonstrating both of these sounds: &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/55UqASDmyec&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/55UqASDmyec&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the sound that the saw makes under load of the belt (note: there is no blade in the saw yet) normal, or is there something I need to look into? If so, what?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="165" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-06-06T21:30:43.347" LastActivityDate="2016-09-16T03:59:02.840" Title="What can cause a table saw to make this rattling/clacking noise?" Tags="|table-saw|tool-maintenance|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1627" CreationDate="2015-05-31T18:48:46.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;An infill plane is basically a metal plane with a wooden core. It's common to take an existing metal-bodied plane and add wooden components to make an infill plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the example given in the referenced answer, if the metal-bodied plane's mouth is badly damaged you can cut the plane into two pieces along the mouth, trim back the metal so you have clean edges, and add new sides of wood or metal to hold the front and back together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T18:48:46.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1629" CreationDate="2015-05-31T19:36:53.627" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It shouldn't be making that sound. The first unloaded run is how the saw should sound, even when it's loaded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you inspected the belt for flaws? The frequency of the &quot;rattle&quot; seems a little high for a single nick, but if there are a few in a row, I could see that being the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My other thought is that you've got a bad bearing somewhere. My first guess would be the saw arbor, since it's not rotating when the belt is off. Rotate it by hand and feel for roughness or excessive play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's not the arbor bearings, it may actually be a motor bearing. Unloaded, the rolling elements may trace a different path on the bearing races. When the cantilever load of the belt is applied, it may slightly change how the rolling elements circle the race and come into contact with a spalled portion of the race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastEditorUserId="38" LastEditDate="2015-05-31T19:54:51.047" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T19:54:51.047" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1627" CreationDate="2015-05-31T19:52:25.350" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The body of a typical hand plane is a single metal casting. An infill plane, by contrast, is formed from metal plates (sole and sides) joined along the edges, or sometimes by a single piece of metal U-channel. Dense wood is used to fill the space between the plates to support the sides, establish a bed for the iron, and to make holding the plane possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Infill planes are often made with steep blade angles, which makes them work well on highly figured woods. They can be and often are made one at a time by woodworkers for their own use in a wood shop with only basic metalworking tools. The metal components can be cut by hand or ordered as a kit, and are usually joined with soldered dovetail or box joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most types of hand planes can be made as infill planes: block planes, smooth planes, jack planes, shoulder planes, etc. can all be made as infill planes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2015-05-31T20:27:59.597" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T20:27:59.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1629" CreationDate="2015-05-31T20:41:06.303" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is the sound that the saw makes under load of the belt...normal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No.&lt;/strong&gt; You should figure out what's causing the noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If so, what?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to identify the problem is to use an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U927cYhQXB4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;old mechanic's trick&lt;/a&gt;. With the machine running, place the tip of a metal rod or &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0015PJCRG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;very long screwdriver&lt;/a&gt; against the part that you suspect of making the noise, and place your ear against the other end. Sound travels along the screwdriver shaft, so by placing the tip of the screwdriver against different parts of the machine you can determine where the sound is coming from. Again, it should be a very long screwdriver because you don't want your head anywhere near the moving parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T20:41:06.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1607" CreationDate="2015-05-31T23:54:07.950" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have very good luck with a purpose-made product called Bostik TopCote.  I first saw this product when I briefly worked for an architectural millwork shop.  One spray can goes a long way, and it contains no petroleum oils or silicones.  I used it most recently on a donated table saw which I reconditioned, after resurfacing the rusty table.  It did a beautiful job.  I appreciate the slick surface especially when using a sled.  I use it on other tools as well, such as bandsaw, joiner, etc.  I would not want to use paste wax because I would be afraid of buildup and transfer to the work.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="682" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T23:54:07.950" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1582" CreationDate="2015-06-01T00:14:39.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend that you look for a local hardwood merchant.  The stock won't be as expensive as in the big-box stores.  I also suspect the hardwood is drier, having been stored longer after cutting.  Another option is to use what is sometimes referred to as 'torrified' stock.  In this case, it really means oven-dried.&#xA;A hint:  Your furniture production will really improve when you acquire the ability to create your own stock, so put a thickness planer (even a cheap one) on your wish list.  That will put you in control instead of the wood merchant, and you can buy rough lumber much cheaper and dimension it yourself.&#xA;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="682" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T00:14:39.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1549" CreationDate="2015-06-01T00:24:03.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to reconsider whether you must start with a solid block of wood?  For much of boatbuilding history, half-hull models were used which were made out of horizontal slices or sections (called 'waterlines').  Each section could then be cut to the appropriate shape, and then 'faired' to a smooth hull surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="682" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T00:24:03.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1607" CreationDate="2015-06-01T09:40:46.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've already tried paste wax and had it work for you, but for future readers who might not have any in the shop already and would like to try it for themselves on the cheap I wanted to link to &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1476/table-saw-top-treatment/1484#1484&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt; which gives the method to make it at home (simplicity itself).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T09:40:46.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1638" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1640" CreationDate="2015-06-01T10:07:54.487" Score="7" ViewCount="14638" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to build a cherry table.  I will be creating the top out of multiple 8/4 boards using standard techniques.  The table will be 42&quot; wide by at least 68&quot; long.  I have come up with the idea to not use aprons.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is how should I stiffen the table without having the aprons for support?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My ideas so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a router to create one or two grooves almost the entire length of the table (making sure that the groove is in only one piece of wood), then insert a &quot;spline&quot; along that length that will be 4/4 stock; basically a long mortise and tenon to attach an apron in the middle of the table.  I figure if I glue this in, it will strengthen the table length-wise and not cause problem due to wood movement because the groove will run with the grain.  I would probably do this several times because I don't want the &quot;apron&quot; to stick out from the bottom too much, so it would not be super thick&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do the same grooves but instead epoxy in metal splines&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't do anything to strengthen it lengthwise, because 8/4 cherry over that length may just be strong enough?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Attach wood strips across the grain using cleats to strengthen table across the width&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;??  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for any good suggestions/critiques here.  Googling has lead me to believe that nobody really does this, but I've seen huge tables with only the 4 legs for support, so I'm guessing it can be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="685" LastEditorUserId="38" LastEditDate="2015-06-04T19:42:40.610" LastActivityDate="2018-09-08T16:09:38.450" Title="How can I design a large cherry table with no aprons?" Tags="|furniture|design|strength|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1638" CreationDate="2015-06-01T12:54:54.477" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, a full 1&quot; hardwood board can span about 4' with minimal bend (supported on the ends for a book shelf with load).  So a 2&quot; board should handle the it fairly well.  Especially since it is unlikely that the legs are going to be out at the very corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But your support can have a big difference in how the table reacts.  A single large pedestal  will need decent sized 'branches' and 'roots' to support the table, two pedestal's still need a goo solid way to attach and support the table. 4 legs, are going to need something to keep them aligned and help prevent torque on the legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an old pedestal table I need to fix so I've been thinking about some of these issues.  The table itself likely doesn't actually need the apron as such, however, how you plan to support the table on the legs (and attach it) will be where the ultimate decision on what you need to do rests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-06-01T13:00:02.567" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T13:00:02.567" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1638" CreationDate="2015-06-01T13:28:51.033" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The apron on a four legged table serves a number of functions, and you may not have considered them all. The apron:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stiffens the top, helping to keep it flat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;transfers the load to the legs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;connects the legs to each other and keeps them vertical&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;connects the top to the base (i.e. legs + apron)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;in a large table, supports stretchers that support the top in the middle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;provides aesthetic balance for the legs (a 1&quot; top on 3&quot; legs would look funny)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can ignore the aesthetic function if you choose, but if you want your table to last you have to consider the structural functions. For example, without aprons to support the width of the table, the joints between the boards in the top would experience much more stress than they do in a regular table. Breadboard ends could help here, but they're not a complete solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you think would happen over time if you screwed legs to the corners of a 3/4&quot; sheet of plywood? Plywood has very good rigidity both lengthwise and crosswise, and there are no joints to worry about. I don't think it'd be long before the top began to sag and the legs started to splay outward. As soon as that happened, there'd be a lot of lateral force on the legs which would cause them to become loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your &quot;spline&quot; idea isn't a bad one, but I think you'll need more than just one down the middle, and it doesn't solve the problem of supporting the top crosswise or bracing the legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One possibility is to connect the legs diagonally, forming an X that would support the top. If you want to hide that structure as much as possible you could build it out of square steel tubing, welded at the center, with vertical bits welded on at each corner to support the legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the aesthetic side, now is the time to start making some drawings that will let you really see how your table will look. That'll also force you to think more carefully about the structural aspects of your design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2015-06-01T17:58:42.967" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T17:58:42.967" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1641" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1651" CreationDate="2015-06-01T14:56:33.453" Score="18" ViewCount="3366" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suppose there are two alternatives for the death of a bandsaw blade:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The blade breaks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The teeth get noticeably dull and the blade is discarded.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never experienced scenario #2 but I've broken a few blades on my bandsaw. Is this the normal way for them to go?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does breaking a bandsaw blade indicate something such as too much/too little tension?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="81" LastActivityDate="2018-02-22T23:42:19.050" Title="What is the normal end-of-life for a bandsaw blade?" Tags="|band-saw|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1641" CreationDate="2015-06-01T15:14:29.037" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the teeth become dull. In my youth, there were shops that would take your blades and resharpen bandsaw blades and table saw blades for a small fee. Too much tension, or too much lateral movement can cause problems in my experience. Back in the day, sometimes the new blade would break at the weld, but I have not see this in a long while. (If you cut wood then metal and then wood again with the same blade, it is easy to 'feel' the difference due to the duller blade.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bandsawblade.com/chart.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bandsawblade.com/chart.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dulling may be symptom of other tuning issues.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://vermontamerican.com/article/ultimate-guide-band-saw-blades-break-troubleshooting/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://vermontamerican.com/article/ultimate-guide-band-saw-blades-break-troubleshooting/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T15:14:29.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1641" CreationDate="2015-06-01T15:14:48.050" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good question.  Every bandsaw blade I've gotten rid of has also been because it broke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this can be an indication that there is incorrect tension on the blade, it also just happens from use.  If it snaps pretty early, likely the tension was wrong or you did something dumb. (I broke one because I turned a piece to sharply).  Wider blades are more likely to get dull before snapping, and some of them can be respharpened, though for most band saws it is likely cheaper to buy a new one.  Some high quality blades can certainly be worth the sharpening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T15:14:48.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1609" CreationDate="2015-06-01T15:31:29.077" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to reducing friction, a corrugated sole is easier to flatten.  You are removing significantly less material if the sole is not dead flat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="686" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T15:31:29.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1625" CreationDate="2015-06-01T16:21:51.430" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless there's enough rust to weld parts together or leave a surface pitted and uneven beyond repair, I've never had it be the reason for walking away from a hand plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing I check is the quality of the plane iron. Flip the lever on the cap and pull off the blade and chip breaker. Learn to do this quickly so that you can get it apart faster than the pawn shop owner can protest. Watch out for junk blades or backs so messed up they aren't worth trying to flatten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the blade assembly off, check the condition of the the frog. Make sure the iron will bed solidly. Verify both bolts connecting the frog to the body are present and not rusted over. Play with the adjusters to make sure they move properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bring a ruler and check the sole for flatness. You can also use the glass top of a display case to check for rock. Flattening a sole isn't hard, but why do it if you don't have to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, look for signs of wear on the plane. If the totes are well worn, you may have found a keeper. This is a tool that has survived a long time and seen lots of use. If it looks pristine, be wary. It's possible there's something wrong and it never got used. (I have a Harbor Freight spokeshave just like this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="81" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T16:21:51.430" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1641" CreationDate="2015-06-01T16:25:22.113" Score="10" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does breaking a bandsaw blade indicate something such as too much/too little tension?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can but it could simply be from material fatigue or a poor weld.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So anyway, blades break or go dull, what &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the interesting question for me since in the past worn bandsaw blades were routinely re-sharpened but like a lot of similar changes over time this is seen much less frequently today. Many woodworkers aren't even aware resharpening is a possibility. And even breaks are repairable (and easily, the work takes just minutes in the hands of someone who knows what they're doing). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of the reason for this type of thing is the lower cost of 'consumables' which makes repair &quot;not economically viable&quot; as they say in the industry. But doing maintenance or repair yourself sidesteps that reality. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, since a lot of woodworkers don't have welding equipment or the experience to re-weld a critical area like this you are still left with a broken blade, but that doesn't mean it has reached the end of its life and should go straight for recycling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A common use for broken bandsaw blades in the past was as stock for bowsaw blades and this is still perfectly viable. And making the bowsaw frame is a great woodshop project in itself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is just the tip of the recycling iceberg. Other potential uses include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shim material&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;scroll saw blades&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;scraper blades &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;scratch stock cutters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just one broken blade could provide nearly a lifetime's worth of any of the above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T16:25:22.113" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1625" CreationDate="2015-06-01T19:41:08.890" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every thing that has been said is bang-on.  I would also look at the blade, generally one with a bit of life left has material left to grind, not too much pitting and is relatively thick.  Take a look at the frog, generally frogs which have more surface area in contact with the blade are higher quality.  Pre-war Stanley planes are a good bet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="686" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T19:41:08.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1607" CreationDate="2015-06-01T20:05:08.500" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend who is a cabinet maker used Bowling Alley wax and his sled slid very well.  You can find it on the interwebs, but I think he actually got his from a bowling alley.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="447" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T20:05:08.500" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1649" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-01T21:35:21.297" Score="7" ViewCount="3571" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a bunch of recycled hardwood flooring that I plan to use for shop projects and possibly nicer furniture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should I remove the varnish? Would it be preferable to use the thickness planer or rip it with the table saw? Or is it worth waiting to get a jointer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to dull my planer blades when a carbide-toothed saw blade would hold up better, or vice versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="281" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-06-18T04:27:13.093" LastActivityDate="2022-10-21T15:53:39.937" Title="What's the best way to remove varnish from recycled wood flooring?" Tags="|technique|tools|varnish|reclaimed-wood|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1649" CreationDate="2015-06-01T22:07:46.577" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can either mechanically remove the varnish or chemically strip it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples of mechanical methods:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;planer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;jointer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;table saw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;belt sander (or other aggressive sander)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hand plane?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I was using one of the above methods I'd probably opt for the belt sander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If using a planer or jointer, some people prefer to swap in a dull set of knives. Similarly, you could swap in a cheaper blade if you use the table saw and don't want to accelerate the wear on a nice blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also often chemically strip old varnish by using an appropriate solvent, as discussed in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/q/1151/49&quot;&gt;How to find out what kind of finish is on a piece of furniture&lt;/a&gt;, or by using a chemical stripper as discussed in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bobvila.com/articles/how-to-remove-varnish&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;an article on Bob Vila's website&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T22:13:19.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1641" CreationDate="2015-06-02T00:43:36.163" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Blades fatigue over time because of the bending around the tires.  They will eventually break due to this. Always inspect blades for stress cracks which usually appear in the gullets, before welding. If a blade is found to have stress cracks, then its time for a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sold saw blades for a living to manufacturers, so I know a little.&#xA;If used absolutely correctly, the blade should wear out (dull) and not break. In the Real World, we seldom see any absolutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RE repairing (welding) blades; I've seen quite a few (industrial-size) bandsaws which had welders built right in; break a blade, count your fingers, trim the ends and weld them without removing the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are always compromises to be made to have a general, all-around BS blade. Seldom is a wood cutting blade useable on metal, although metal-cutting blades &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; cut wood without too many problems. But unless you're in a production environment (cutting the same thing, mechanically fed, changed before &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; dull or else they overheat &amp;amp; break) you have to get the finest TPI, pitch, and set you can stand to use on the biggest thing you'll cut (sort of prepare-for-the-worst situation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="689" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2018-02-22T23:42:19.050" LastActivityDate="2018-02-22T23:42:19.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1649" CreationDate="2015-06-02T08:35:02.460" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In smaller batches I recommend hand scraping for finish removal on large, flat expanses as you're faced with here. It's not as onerous as it sounds because of how efficient card scrapers are, and at least you're not having to deal with the boards in situ on the floor. (Backbreaking work!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chemical stripping is obviously one option, and while the 'green' products (which are slower but can still work well) are much less odoriferous the cost does rise and rise the more you have to do. For furniture-scale projects I'm a big fan of strippers, but they're a little hard to justify for very large amounts of stuff if you're buying your stripper retail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heat or flame stripping is an option. Using a heat gun or blowtorch, with paint scrapers in a scraping motion or a stout putty knife in a pushing motion to scrape off the softened finish. But ideally you'd want to work outside, especially if using a torch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a really good alternative to any of the above that can sometimes work to your advantage: use the back of the board which doesn't have any finish on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T08:35:02.460" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1654" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1656" CreationDate="2015-06-02T18:03:26.870" Score="10" ViewCount="159" Body="&lt;p&gt;When trying to refinish a piece of furniture, a lot of older pieces had/have veneer and more often than not (in my experience) the veneer is damaged and chipping around the edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a good way to patch it other than stripping it all off and starting over?  Would you 'cut' shapes out that can be matched and patched? The one big piece I've done I chipped it all off and it was a cedar chest underneath so was pretty all by itself.  Most stuff I throw away because it isn't worth the effort but many can be worth it.  Especially if part of the veneer can be salvaged or patched.  What are the common recommendations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-06-04T12:42:42.560" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T12:42:42.560" Title="Can veneer be patched or do you have to peel it off and start over?" Tags="|technique|furniture|refinishing|veneer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1655" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-02T18:36:59.610" Score="13" ViewCount="7235" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often find myself wanting to build plywood boxes of various sizes for various uses. I realize that the size and use can dictate how to construct the box, but are there some general recommendations for how to construct a box from plywood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm most interested in how to deal with the joints. What are some big no-nos and what are some good practices to keep in mind the next time I find myself with some plywood and a need for a box (think cabinet scale rather than something that would sit on a shelf).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of my approaches in the past:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Build a lightweight frame out of 2x2s or some variation, then attach plywood sheets to the frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use brackets (usually with glue between the joined surfaces).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Just glue the joining surfaces and clamp.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me the priority is rough rapid assembly and reasonable strength (not as concerned with aesthetics).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="90" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-06-29T18:09:18.873" LastActivityDate="2017-10-27T15:12:18.697" Title="What are some best practices and techniques for building cabinet boxes with plywood?" Tags="|joinery|plywood|cabinetry|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1654" CreationDate="2015-06-02T18:46:50.287" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on your goal. The &quot;right&quot; way to fix it would be to strip the old damaged veneer and re-veneer the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it isn't a valuable piece and you don't want to remove and redo the veneer, there are a couple potential options depending on the type and amount of damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;veneer is worn through somewhere in the middle: carve out the defect and inlay a nice design (or you could put in an ugly football patch like they do with the faces of cheap plywood)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;edges are chipped on a tabletop: trim back the edge of the table then re-veneer and/or refinish the edges&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;trim back the veneer to remove the defects (and on adjacent or corresponding parts for consistency), then add a new strip of veneer or edge detail&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;corners are chipped (e.g., around the sides of a leg or sides of the piece itself):&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;chamfer the corners then veneer and/or finish the newly-exposed surface&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;trim back the veneer to remove the defects (and on adjacent or corresponding parts for consistency), then add a new strip of veneer or edge detail&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add &quot;corner protectors&quot; over the corners, hiding the defects&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will be next to impossible to perfectly match the grain and insert or butt up a separate piece of veneer alongside the original, so you'll probably want to go with a complementing color or pattern if doing an inlay or trimming back and reveneering the edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind if the piece is valuable, these patch jobs will only decrease its value in the eyes of anyone seeking an authentic antique. But if the piece does not have any antique value, you may be able to use these types of repairs to add some new and interesting design elements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T18:46:50.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1655" CreationDate="2015-06-02T18:56:33.713" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Building a 2x2 frame first certainly works, but it unnecessarily complicates building a plywood cabinet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More typical cabinet construction uses butt joints with the pieces joined with one or more of the following strategies:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pocket screws&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;nails or screws through the face of one piece and into the end grain of the other piece&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cleats on the inside corners, fastened with glue and screws/nails&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all cases, you should usually also glue the joints for improved strength; if using a nailgun the nails only serve to hold the carcass (cabinet box) together while the glue dries. You can hide your fasteners by strategically positioning them. In the case of nails or screws through the face of an outer end, you can simply design your cabinet with room for an extra 1/4&quot; panel glued on the outside, or you can plug or veneer over the screws/nails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's good to include at least a partial back to help reinforce the box against racking. Face frames on the front also add reinforcement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As TX Turner mentioned, you can also house your joints in dadoes or rabbets. This helps register the pieces during assembly and adds glue surface for strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-06-02T21:16:26.930" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T21:16:26.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1655" CreationDate="2015-06-02T19:27:58.430" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rabbets / rebates (UK), and dadoes. A butt joint is fine for general cabinetry, but if you have the equipment and time, cutting rabbets for panels to fit in makes everything so much tighter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I rabbet the sides for the toe-kick, bottom shelf, and top braces; then put a rabbet along the back edge for 1/4&quot; plywood to fit into. That really locks the thing together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pocket-holed face frames attached with biscuits, and you're good to go. I've put engine transmissions on cabinets built this way with nary a wobble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tend to use glue as my main fastener, but I'll use pin nails and clamps to hold things together while the glue dries. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T19:27:58.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1659" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1660" CreationDate="2015-06-02T21:19:33.070" Score="9" ViewCount="2620" Body="&lt;p&gt;I glued up a 4' long dresser top last night, and ended up using a 1/4&quot; spline to line up the two 12&quot; wide sub-panels into one 24&quot; wide one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was using pine quarter-sawn boards, and for the spline I just ripped a 1/4&quot; wide strip from the end of one of the panels, since I had made them a bit oversized. So the spline had the same grain direction as the panels, except the growth rings are rotated 90°. Unfortunately I didn't really think about spline grain direction while I was gluing it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WMZHs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I going to run into problems with my 3/4&quot; wide spline expanding enough to crack the center joint on my table?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the future, is it critical that I manufacture a long spline for an edge join with grain perpendicular, like in the image below? It seems like a huge hassle, since I'd have to have a super wide board or use dozens of little spline chunks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y8m8w.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodshoptips.com/tips/090902/page11.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image Source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastEditorUserId="38" LastEditDate="2015-06-02T21:39:02.120" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T12:38:37.607" Title="How should I orient a spline along a long edge join?" Tags="|joinery|wood-movement|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1659" CreationDate="2015-06-02T21:31:43.037" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The spline will expand at the same rate as the board it is in, if the grain is running parallel to the grain in the board, so there shouldn't be a problem.  The reason splines are better when the grain is perpendicular to the join is for strength - wood will split along the grain much easier than it will break across it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, in a panel glue up like you describe, the spline is only used for alignment, not strength.  The edge grain to edge grain glue bond will be plenty strong alone.   I will use splines, biscuits, dominos, or dowels on this type of glue up just for alignment purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T21:31:43.037" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1659" CreationDate="2015-06-02T21:35:03.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't have any issues.  To begin you used the same wood, which they should move pretty close to the same.  Second the splines are very small compared to the pieces that they are connecting.  The splines should not be able to do much movement.  On top of that, I think leaving the spline slightly smaller than the sum of the two grooves is standard practice, it is the faces of the spline providing most of the added strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T21:35:03.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1655" CreationDate="2015-06-03T01:12:20.877" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rob and TX Turner have good advice. For me, it's butt joints, biscuits, glue and screws (either pocket if they have to be hidden, or clearance drilled/countersunk if they don't have to be hidden).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The joy of biscuits (for me) is that they force alignment when you're assembling the carcase. If you make the biscuits asymmetrical, you won't accidentally flop/swap a panel. Add glue, a couple of clamps, screw it together, and you can pull your clamps right away and check (/adjust) for square before it sets up. Biscuits also prevent the creep you can get with pocket screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like full thickness back panels, full width of the cabinet, partly because I like overkill, and partly because you can attach through any part of it. (Granted, this comes up once in a blue moon.) If a side (&quot;gable end&quot; where I grew up, but that term causes confusion where I am now...) has to be visible and I can't be moved to cutting a super precise back to sit inside, I'll go for a rabbet to give  a little bit of wiggle room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think a lot of doing boxes effectively is getting a system that you're comfortable with, more than any one-true-path kind of rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T01:12:20.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1663" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-03T04:33:04.977" Score="9" ViewCount="3019" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on some landscaping projects with interlocking &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Halved_joint&quot;&gt;halved joints&lt;/a&gt;. The material is 100x50mm treated pine so my cuts are 50x50mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm currently achieving my cuts by clamping several lengths together and using multiple passes with a Skilsaw as if it was a dado. This is working but the cleanup with chisel and rasp is quite time consuming. I'm considering using a router to speed things up but I have some questions before I spend money on chunky bits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is a 50mm-deep cut practical and safe with a hand-held router?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there such thing as a deep (50mm+) straight bit with a pattern-following bearing? This will impact the type of jig I'll need to build.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will this actually save me any time?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had a look around at wobble blades and stacked dado sets but I can't find any which will cut a 50mm wide swath. That and I don't have access to a saw bench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="699" LastEditorUserId="699" LastEditDate="2015-06-03T04:38:15.993" LastActivityDate="2017-11-18T04:13:16.953" Title="Is it sensible to use a router for cutting large dados?" Tags="|joinery|router|router-bit|dado|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1663" CreationDate="2015-06-03T04:47:15.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;50mm is a trifle under 2 inches. There are certainly 2-inch-long spiral upcut bits, and you could use a guide collar, so this sounds entirely doable -- in multiple passes, preferably, and with a secondary base to bridge the wide opening for stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unsure about relative speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T04:47:15.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1663" CreationDate="2015-06-03T05:59:08.133" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, to answer your 3 questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yes, you can safely make a 50mm deep cut with a handheld router, but only if you take several passes, only cutting part of the depth at a time. If you try to make the entire cut in one pass, you'll very likely either damage the bit, stall your router, injure yourself, or some combination of these.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are certainly bottom-bearing bits this long, but it seems to be harder to find top-bearing (pattern) bits that will make that deep a cut. However, you can buy a collet extension which will increase your maximum depth of cut. Keep in mind that a pattern bit's cutters don't need to be long enough to cut the entire depth all at once. For your first pass, the bearing rides along your pattern, then for deeper passes the cut from one of your previous passes becomes the pattern (assuming your bearing is the same diameter as the cutter--which isn't always the case). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are asking whether this will be faster than making several passes with a 3/4&quot; dado stack, then the answer is probably no.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main reason you cannot find a dado set that cuts a 50mm wide dado is that no consumer-grade table saw has an arbor long enough to accommodate that width, at least in the US (and my understanding is that dado blades are prohibited as unsafe on European table saws). Such a wide dado stack would probably also strain or stall the motors of many consumer-grade table saws. In the US, radial arm saws were also commonly used with dado blades, but have declined in popularity. If you want to use a dado stack or wobble dado blade, you'll have to make multiple passes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several options available for cutting this with a router, from setting up guides that register against the router's baseplate and using a large straight bit, to a spiral bit with a bushing and pattern, to a straight or spiral pattern bit. You can buy large &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/whiteside-ultimate-router-pattern-bit&quot;&gt;spiral pattern bits&lt;/a&gt;, but they're expensive. You can buy a collet extension if your bit isn't long enough to cut 50mm deep. Regardless of which bit you use, you will still need to make several passes and depending on your setup you may be just as well off hogging out the bulk of material with some other tool (even a bandsaw, drill press, hand saw, jigsaw, table saw, or circular saw) before cleaning it up with the router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of these two overall options, the table saw will still probably be the fastest. I'd suggest ganging up several boards, clamping them together (in a crosscut sled, if using a table saw), and cutting the dadoes in all of them at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, if I was building landscaping projects from pressure-treated wood, I wouldn't worry about cleaning up the joints too much and would just use construction screws that are designed not to corrode when used with modern pressure-treated lumber. Depending on the application, I might not even bother to use glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-06-03T06:51:34.217" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T06:51:34.217" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1659" CreationDate="2015-06-03T12:38:37.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Am I going to run into problems with my 3/4&quot; wide spline expanding enough to crack the center joint on my table?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same wood, grain aligned the same way? I think you can virtually guarantee there won't be any problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the future, is it critical that I manufacture a long spline for an edge join with grain perpendicular, like in the image below? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, not for that purpose. In a splined long-grain joint like this the spline is not for strength, it is actually almost entirely an alignment aid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where splines are used for strength grain direction is important (if using solid wood*) as in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1129/strong-joints-to-use-when-making-custom-frames/1140#1140&quot;&gt;a splined mitre&lt;/a&gt;, but not otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Another option to consider for your spline material is plywood. Very stiff and very stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T12:38:37.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1667" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-03T12:55:43.240" Score="8" ViewCount="1055" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a really bad back, and I find that sitting on hard surfaces is preferable to soft surfaces.  I'd like to figure out what the optimal height is for a seat for me so that I am not cutting off circulation by having my legs dangle, or exacerbating the bad back condition by having my feet too positively engaged to the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a commonly accepted wisdom with regards to seating height?  Is there a universal standard or is it something that can be calculated based on the situation?  I would assume the ergonomics of a person varies by that person.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2019-03-20T13:16:11.747" Title="Is there a procedure or equation to calculate optimal height of a seat based on a given person?" Tags="|furniture|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1667" CreationDate="2015-06-03T13:58:08.747" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The field of ergonomics is filled with opinions, which leads to some weird chair designs- remember this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4NJFH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Knee Chair&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DVjVF.gif&quot; alt=&quot;WTF?&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OjSTn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ball Chair&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, there are some actually good ergonomic chairs, but I've seen wildly different results with different people and the same chair. I'm not sure that the science of ergonomics is advanced enough to synthesize a rule that applies to more than a subset of people at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T13:58:08.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1667" CreationDate="2015-06-03T14:27:36.417" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;As TX Turner &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/1668/93&quot;&gt;said&lt;/a&gt; there may not be a particularly good &lt;em&gt;formula&lt;/em&gt; for coming up with that height, but this should work as a procedure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take an old chair and make a back rest adjuster to bring you to the same back angle of the new chair.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut the legs off shorter than you think you'll need&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fortunately, it's easy to make them shorter if needed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut a stack of plywood squares just larger than the base of the chair&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put a couple of pieces of plywood under the legs and sit down&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;sup&gt;**&lt;/sup&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if the chair is too low, add another piece of plywood&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if the chair is too high, take one out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt;Use care when sitting because the chair could slide off the plywood.&lt;br&gt;&lt;sup&gt;**&lt;/sup&gt;Different thicknesses of plywood will make the fitting process quicker (thick pieces) and more accurate (thin pieces).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is similar to getting a custom bike fitting where they use a purpose-designed, very adjustable bike frame to get exact measurements to either set up a factory-built bike or build a custom frame. One style looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LnIeZ.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LnIeZ.gif&quot; alt=&quot;http://www.next-fit.com/main_graphics/fit_bike.gif&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.next-fit.com/main_graphics/fit_bike.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;next-fit.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;  &lt;br&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image linked from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rodbikes.com/articles/web_articles/pioneers_and_profits.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;R + E Cycles&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2019-03-20T08:30:15.847" LastActivityDate="2019-03-20T08:30:15.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1663" CreationDate="2015-06-03T15:12:58.560" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Really, do you want to turn that entire 50x50x50mm cube into sawdust?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you don't have access to a bench saw and the dado alternative , this is what I would advise:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cut each end of the slot with your Skil saw.  Knock out the 50x50x50mm piece with your hammer and clean up the bottom of the cut with your a wide chisel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of your cuts will require little more than a touch up and you will get the thrill of doing something that requires a little hand craftsmanship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still want to go with the router, you could use this approach and use the long router bit only to smooth the bottom of the cut,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2017-11-18T04:13:16.953" LastActivityDate="2017-11-18T04:13:16.953" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1672" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-03T19:42:33.830" Score="13" ViewCount="36960" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a sander and as I browse through the various offerings I can see that most manufactures offer both a sheet sander and a random orbit sander.  Aside from the shape of the sanding surface, are there any functional differences between the two?  What scenarios does each type excel at?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T10:53:24.920" LastActivityDate="2022-01-30T17:21:40.767" Title="What's the difference between a sheet sander and random orbit sander?" Tags="|sanding|ros|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1672" CreationDate="2015-06-03T19:53:10.270" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sheet sanders usually take 1/4 or 1/2 sheet of sandpaper held in place with 2 clamps, though some can also take hook-and-loop paper. As Graphus pointed out, most models today have dust collection. Many models come with a hole punch in order to perforate standard sheets of sandpaper with the appropriate pattern of dust collection holes, but for some you must buy the hole punch separately. Sheet sanders themselves are relatively inexpensive and the paper is also very inexpensive on models which use normal sandpaper, compared to sanders that use hook-and-loop sanding media.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Random orbit sanders typically use round sanding disks held in place with hook-and-loop (velcro), and have holes in the both the sanding media and the sander's pad for dust collection. A random orbit sander costs the same or more than a sheet sander with more or less the same specs, and the sanding discs cost more than normal sandpaper. You have to be somewhat careful when buying media, because there are 2 &quot;standard&quot; but basically incompatible hole patterns, 5-hole and 8-hole. Although 5-hole sanders are not as commonly sold today, you can still find 5-hole sanding discs. Festool has its own proprietary hole patterns, called Jetstream and Multi-Jetstream. Mirka has its own line of Abranet sanding mesh which, as mesh with many small holes already, doesn't require any particular hole pattern and can attach to any hook-and-loop sander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dust collection not only reduces the amount of dust in the air and all over the place, but it also allows the sandpaper to work more efficiently by preventing a layer of wood dust from building up between the sanding media and the workpiece. The resulting airflow across the sanding media's surface also helps against excessive heat buildup, which will melt and destroy the plastic hooks (for the hook-and-loop fastening) on the bottom of the sander's pad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As TXTurner and LeeG pointed out, the two types of sanders also produce different scratch patterns. Sheet sanders can reach into corners which a random orbit sander cannot do with its circular pad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sheet sanders use a linear or orbital (circular) motion, and some can be switched between the two. Random orbit sanders use an eccentric circular motion which is intended to create a less visible scratch pattern, but some higher-end models can also be switched into a gear-driven orbital mode for more aggressive sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-06-04T13:13:24.760" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T13:13:24.760" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1667" CreationDate="2015-06-03T19:58:48.730" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a book by Jeff Miller on chair design cleverly named Chairmaking &amp;amp; Design  which is chock full of information on chair design and issues regarding wood, such as shrinkage and joint construction. One of his projects is to make an adjustable jig that holds dowels horizontally, so different shaped profiles can be tried and tested very quickly. When you find a shape you like, you can construct something similar that is more permanent. The rest of the book is a good read as well, with many other design approaches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7147/6766377019_0a418a7e5e_b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dowel Chair&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also enjoy &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/woodworking-plans/article/pro-portfolio-the-clever-chair.aspx&quot;&gt;http://www.finewoodworking.com/woodworking-plans/article/pro-portfolio-the-clever-chair.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other end of the spectrum is anthropometrics and ergonomics, which contain a wealth of data but are not aimed at woodworkers. This example is short and readable and may lead to more interesting reading: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.allsteeloffice.com/SynergyDocuments/ErgonomicsAndDesignReferenceGuideWhitePaper.pdf&quot;&gt;http://www.allsteeloffice.com/SynergyDocuments/ErgonomicsAndDesignReferenceGuideWhitePaper.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;amazon reference to the book: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1933502061&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Chairmaking-Design-Jeff-Miller/dp/1933502061/ref=pd_sim_14_4?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;refRID=1THFFRZC1ZN1WCZPQ88Y&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastEditorUserId="111" LastEditDate="2015-06-04T12:54:40.743" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T12:54:40.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1672" CreationDate="2015-06-03T20:03:14.970" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Random orbit sanders rotate and oscillate to give scratch pattern that is harder for the eye to discern.  Sheet sanders typically just have some random oscillation.  RO sanders can be more aggressive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both sanders can support dust collection (see Festool), but typically sheet sanders do not have provisions for dust collection, and RO sanders almost always do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The larger sheet sander (1/2 sheet) are great for finishing a large, flat surface.  Sheet sanders also work well for sanding into corners, something you cannot do with a round RO sander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T20:03:14.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1672" CreationDate="2015-06-03T20:03:22.847" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to Rob's answer, the motion of both sanders is a bit different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sheet sanders tend to move back and forth in a straight line, with small variation side to side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A random orbit sander has an eccentric cam mechanism that makes the sanding disc move in a circular but not round fashion. I'd best liken it to the old spir-o-graph toy- it's 'orbiting' around the central point, but it's not a simple circle. You get less noticeable scratches this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the difference in application.. sheet sanders excel at getting into corners and edges, but can cause grooves because the sheet only moves in one direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An RO sander is great for wide open spaces, where if you use a successively finer grit, you end up with a nice smooth surface. But it doesn't get into inside corners very well. My RO sander also has holes in the pad, which facilitates sanding dust removal with a shop vac. (I'm not sure if modern sheet sanders have a dust collection port, but none of mine do.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T20:03:22.847" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6" CreationDate="2015-06-04T13:11:58.940" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good answers, but nobody seems to have mentioned yet that some timber types are very prone to grain raising, and some really are not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never &amp;quot;raised the grain&amp;quot; by dampening as a separate process, but I have seen the effects of this raising after applying a water-based base coat. From my (admittedly limited) experience, denser hardwoods seem to be less prone to the grain raising or &amp;quot;fluffing&amp;quot; up, but this may not be true in all cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it actually depends on what kind of finish you want. See this link:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/info/faq#should-i-worry-about-raising-the-wood-grain&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/info/faq#should-i-worry-about-raising-the-wood-grain&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is grain raising (with water based products) something to be concerned about?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short - no, but it is a question of personal taste. The grain doesn't feel rough to the touch, it's more of a textured feel. In other words the pattern of the wood can be felt through the wood finish. Some customers really like to be able to feel the wood. If several coats of varnish are being applied then grain raising is not really an issue because the varnish tends to seal over the grain that has been raised, thus creating a smooth surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also worth considering that if you're going to be applying a finish with more than one coat, it's often the case that the timber will be sanded between coats anyway. With Meranti timber (which is a somewhat light hardwood which is quite prone to fluffing/raising grain) we would apply a base coat, sand it to key the finish (which also has the effect of flatting the grain) and then apply a topcoat, and be left with a nice smooth finish. It does mean that the denibbing/keying phase of the finishing process takes a bit more effort, but the need for raising the grain as a separate process is removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't say &amp;quot;don't bother&amp;quot;, but I would think about the type of finish you're trying to achieve, and whether it is worth it on the particular type of wood you're using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with most types of finishing, I would suggest you try it with and without this process on a scrap piece of timber and see the effects for yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T14:32:25.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1678" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1680" CreationDate="2015-06-04T13:37:58.457" Score="9" ViewCount="666" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was recently ripping about an inch off of a 6/4 thick, 5&quot; wide board, and had the kerf close up on the riving knife. Thankfully the knife saved me from kickback, but I'd still like to avoid this situation in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to tell how a board will move when ripped by looking at the grain, or is it pretty much random?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T21:14:19.470" Title="Can it be predicted when a board will bind?" Tags="|table-saw|rip-cut|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1678" CreationDate="2015-06-04T13:46:16.910" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Internal stresses in the board that are released when cut cannot be entirely predicted, no. A square, flat, straight board might rip or resaw into a problem piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, a cupped, bowed, or twisted board will often yield a smaller board with similar problems, even after going through the process of squaring / truing up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T13:46:16.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1678" CreationDate="2015-06-04T13:51:14.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never noticed any predictable pattern when ripping timbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get a particularly strong or stubborn piece, you can knock some pre-cut timber wedges into the saw groove on the outfeed side in order to prevent excessive pinching, hammering/pushing them in as you go along.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T13:51:14.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1678" CreationDate="2015-06-04T14:36:32.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the others said, no true prediction.  It has to do with internal stresses and cutting the board releases them.  It might have to do with where the wood came from in the tree (a leaning tree or branch is more likely to have stress wood when cut into lumber) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of it can be how the wood was dried.  Case hardening etc.  There is a good chance that if it's the drying process, or the wood location, a lot of the wood from the same batch will likely have similar problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T14:36:32.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1682" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1683" CreationDate="2015-06-04T19:25:47.363" Score="19" ViewCount="67889" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a handy man with limited woodworking projects these days.  I mostly use a circular saw, jig saw, and orbital sander to make crude storage.  Sometimes I cut MDF, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen it mentioned several times on this site that you should wear a dust mask.  Then I saw &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/770/706&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; which said, &quot;Dust collection is not an excuse not to wear a mask.&quot;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why does it seem mandatory to wear a dust mask?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When is it not mandatory to wear a dust mask?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I work mostly outside with a breeze as my dust collection, am I ok?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is wearing a dust mask more important when using certain tools?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The types of wood that you should wear a dust mask for has &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/353/what-kind-of-wood-dust-is-toxic-dangerous-and-requires-usage-of-dust-mask&quot;&gt;already been discussed.&lt;/a&gt;  I'm asking in particular about work environment, situation, and type of work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="706" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T00:24:39.390" Title="Why and when should I wear a dust mask?" Tags="|safety|sawdust|dust-collection|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1682" CreationDate="2015-06-04T19:39:19.480" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: always wear a properly-fitted, high-efficiency respirator so you can reduce your chances of developing respiratory problems or certain types of cancer of the respiratory system later in life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many levels of protection when it comes to filtering the air you breathe, from cheap paper masks that provide very little protection, to slightly better disposable masks with or without breathing valves, to well-fitted half- or full-face respirators with rubber gaskets and P100 filters (HEPA-level, removing 99.97% of airborne particles down to 0.3 microns in size).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No matter how good your dust collection system is, some dust will always escape at the collection point and some may not be filtered at the filtration point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer the various points in your question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why does it seem mandatory to wear a dust mask?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because inhaled dust can clog up your lung tissues. In the short term, you can become sensitized to certain types of material, and longer-term you can develop respiratory ailments and/or cancer. Not everyone is as susceptible to any of these negative outcomes, but there is not a way to predict whether you will be one of the unlucky ones who does develop some sensitivity or ailment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When is it not mandatory to wear a dust mask?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strictly speaking, never. If we all wore respirators 24/7 and never removed them, we could reduce the spread of airborne diseases, reduce inhalation of secondhand smoke and automotive exhaust, and generally keep our lungs cleaner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there's a point at which protecting yourself from future ailments becomes impractical or seems excessive (even ridiculous), given all the other hazards we face on a daily basis. And not everyone who is subjected to dust develops cancer or any other ailment. Only you can decide what level of risk you are willing to accept for yourself. Personally, I go by whether I can smell the dust, which means I almost always wear a respirator, even when working outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I work mostly outside with a breeze as my dust collection, am I ok?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're certainly better off than being in an enclosed space in which the concentration of airborne particles increases the longer you work, assuming you are not wearing a respirator in either case. But you're not necessarily as well off outdoors without a respirator than you are indoors with a respirator, especially with tools that produce a cloud of dust around you when you use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is wearing a dust mask more important when using certain tools?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, some tools produce more dust or finer dust, some tools collect less dust, and some tools eject more dust directly toward you. It all depends on the tool, application, and whether the tool was adequately retrofitted or designed from the start with dust collection in mind. For example, most circular saws have little or no dust collection, while most track saws at least have a dust collection port built in or available as an add-on. And most sanders these days have dust collection ports but some work better than others. Most miter saws currently on the market have terrible dust collection, but many table saws have pretty decent dust collection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2017-06-12T15:16:42.190" LastActivityDate="2017-06-12T15:16:42.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1682" CreationDate="2015-06-04T20:17:56.450" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;As with Rob, the short answer is to always wear a dust mask to reduce the risk of respiratory problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The long answer is, it depends.  Visible dust is less of a hazard than very fine particles.  Dust particles smaller than 10 microns can bypass the body's defenses and can reach deep within the lungs.  Particles larger than 10 microns tend to be trapped by the bodies natural filters (nose, throat, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dust danger is also relative to the volume of air it is being disbursed in.  If you work in a garage with the large door open, your air is being replaced at quite a rapid rate.  Working in a small, fully enclosed shop, the dust can linger for quite a long time, and thus more care needs to be taken.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exposure time is also a factor.  If you are exposed to dust for an hour or two every week, you have less risk than someone who spends every day in the shop.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certain woodworking activities don't produce much in the way of very fine dust.  Most of the dust from saws, planers, drills, and even routers is consists of much larger particles.  Sanding is probably the worst culprit for producing very fine dust, so wearing a mask while sanding with power sanders is more important than most other times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some tools, notably Festool, offer very good dust collection built right into their tools.  Prior to investing in a Festool dust collector and their sanders, I typically would wear a mask while sanding, or did my sanding outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding shop vacuums in general, they can be worse for your lungs than nothing at all.  Most inexpensive ones do not have the required HEPA filters and while they pick up all of the visible dust, they are expelling the more dangerous, very fine dust into the air.  A HEPA filter, such as the ones Festool uses, will capture dust down to .3 microns.  If you don't have a good HEPA filter (and maybe even if you do), you should wear a good dust mask while and after a shop vac has been operating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as filters, you want at least an N95, with N99 or P100 being better.  The mask needs to seal tightly against your mouth and nose - get one in the correct size.  Facial hair makes it harder to get a good seal, so you might need to consider a forced air face shield if you are not getting enough filtration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Links for further reading:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://home.wlu.edu/~evanss/resources/Conferences/USITT/Dust_Collection/Dust-and-the-Woodworker.pdf&quot;&gt;Article 1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.achooallergy.com/allergy-asthma-mask-buying-guide.asp&quot;&gt;Allergy Mask Guide&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T20:17:56.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1678" CreationDate="2015-06-04T21:14:19.470" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This not so much an answer, but to provoke some discussion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I rip clear, straight-grained wood, I do not expect any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I rip wood with &quot;interesting&quot; grain, I expect to have difficulty half of  the time - the wood will either bind into the blade or splay apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The definition of &quot;interesting&quot; is up for grabs.  Perhaps crotch wood or wood near a knot, or perhaps wood near the pith.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T21:14:19.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1687" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1690" CreationDate="2015-06-05T20:23:28.393" Score="10" ViewCount="7105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am learning woodworking because I have an interest in making wooden picture frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to learn what tools and techniques could be used to create some of the highlighted elements below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DWyff.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A:&lt;/strong&gt; Smooth profiles like A can be created using a router table. I know how these are made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;B:&lt;/strong&gt; I would like to know how elements like what is highlighted in B could be made. I'm sure this could be hand carved but I don't think this was hand-carved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;C:&lt;/strong&gt; I would also like to know how the half-ball pattern highlighted in C was made. I doubt this could be done with a router table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please focus any answers to a hobbyist's resources and budget if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user712" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-06-05T21:31:07.903" LastActivityDate="2017-05-03T02:21:28.430" Title="How do I create the decorative/ornamental elements of a picture frame?" Tags="|router|design|framing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1687" CreationDate="2015-06-05T21:09:52.203" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;B: I would like to know how elements like what is highlighted in B could be made. I'm sure this could be hand carved but I don't think this was hand-carved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you mentioned, this could have been hand-made but it was probably mass-produced. Decorative elements such as the one you labeled B are commonly called appliques or onlays. They can be wood, but are not necessarily wood. They can also be cast in plaster, plastic, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;C: I would also like to know how the half-ball pattern highlighted in C was made. I doubt this could be done with a router table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moldings such as the one you labeled C can also be purchased intact or made by drilling holes and gluing in round-headed plugs. You could either buy the plugs or make them yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-06-06T04:05:06.760" LastActivityDate="2015-06-06T04:05:06.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1687" CreationDate="2015-06-06T00:47:23.560" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't tell from this picture exactly but it is worth pointing out that this frame might not all be made of wood and wood elements (not that you were suggesting this). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The items you see in section B and C could very well be made from clay/plastic molds and then glued into place. It is possible that one of these pieces of flair to be carved by hand, to create detail, and then a rubber cast was used so that the design could be repeated. Or you can purchase the molds yourself. The one in the picture is called Gedeo Acanthus Mould used with plaster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://default.secure.media.ipcdigital.co.uk/96/000014579/715f/Plaster-mirror--Make-project--PHOTO-GALLERY--Style-at-Home--Housetohome.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image of molds&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.housetohome.co.uk/articles/how-to-make-a-decorative-mirror-plaster-mouldings_531616.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;HouseToHome&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The paint/finish can easily hide the material difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it is likely that C is also just some length/carved molding as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is &lt;a href=&quot;https://antiquemike.wordpress.com/2014/05/17/restoring-a-picture-frame/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a blog&lt;/a&gt; where he was restoring an old ornate picture frame and used dental moldings to repair broken parts. Once refinished you couldn't tell the difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-06-08T13:51:11.703" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T13:51:11.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1691" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1693" CreationDate="2015-06-06T16:17:28.770" Score="12" ViewCount="18306" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am just wondering if these tools would be we suited for small spaces and sanding in corners. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13" LastActivityDate="2021-02-26T12:18:44.163" Title="Is an oscillating multi-tool a good option for detailed sanding?" Tags="|power-tools|sanding|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1691" CreationDate="2015-06-06T17:12:35.837" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tool manufacturers seem to think so, as every one I've owned has came with a sanding pad mounting system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used mine to get into the inside back corners of furniture that I'm stripping / refinishing, it did tolerably well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2015-06-06T17:12:35.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1691" CreationDate="2015-06-06T17:42:19.977" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a corded and a cordless oscillating multi tool, and they're amazing for corners, since the sanding pads for them are triangular with 60° corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few drawbacks that will keep you from using it as your default go-to sander though:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They have a relatively small surface area.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They usually oscillate in a 3° arc, which will be more likely to leave noticeable cross grain scratches than a random orbital sander. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They don't have holes for dust collection, but this can be remedied since you can buy a dust collection adapter for many of them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastActivityDate="2015-06-06T17:42:19.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1629" CreationDate="2015-06-06T18:24:12.353" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced the belt, which was worn and nicked, with a new V-drive belt from Grizzly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That helped a lot, but there was still a clacking sound coming from the motor. I found that I had not installed the pulley wheel correctly. Specifically, the key was too far forward which prevented the set screw from clamping down on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have posted an &quot;after&quot; video on youtube to demonstrate the way a table saw should sound!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e2UUdkWz0PU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e2UUdkWz0PU&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="165" LastEditorUserId="165" LastEditDate="2015-06-07T15:47:29.150" LastActivityDate="2015-06-07T15:47:29.150" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1695" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1705" CreationDate="2015-06-06T18:29:51.833" Score="12" ViewCount="20492" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many older table saws came equipped with a splitter, which is not as &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/21/how-do-i-prevent-dangerous-kickback-on-a-table-saw&quot;&gt;safe as a riving knife&lt;/a&gt;. I have one such saw, a Powermatic 64, but there are many others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some options for equipping a riving knife on to a table saw which came with a splitter, but not a riving knife?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="165" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2019-05-04T13:40:19.173" Title="Riving knife options for table saws which came with splitters?" Tags="|table-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1691" CreationDate="2015-06-06T21:25:07.030" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's ok for getting into really tight spaces where a normal mouse sander won't fit, but as Doresoom mentioned, it produces an arc-shaped scratch pattern. Also because of the tool's shape and the tiny surface area of the sanding pad, it can be difficult to keep it oriented flat against a surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure to run the tool at a lower speed (and use a dust collection adapter if possible), otherwise the hook-and-loop sanding pad's hooks will melt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2015-06-06T21:25:07.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1691" CreationDate="2015-06-07T01:26:05.833" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not to suggest that an oscillating multi tool is not good for this type of sanding but &lt;em&gt;small spaces and sanding in corners&lt;/em&gt; can mean different things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to have another suggestion for these types of scenarios there are such things as contour sanding blocks/grips that are designed to hold paper to a shape. Depending on how tight your corner is you might have more luck with something like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4V9lR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4V9lR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/supplies/sanding/accessories/20183-contour-sanding-grips&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;LeeValley&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure there are commercial products which work well. I find myself wrapping sanding paper around scrap wood all the time albeit mostly for right angles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2021-02-26T12:18:44.163" LastActivityDate="2021-02-26T12:18:44.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1698" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1703" CreationDate="2015-06-07T10:37:43.797" Score="6" ViewCount="433" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for the strongest finish for a project with the following specifications.  I prioritize scratch and wear resistance, but also want sun and water resistance along with adjustments to temperature changes.  It is okay if the color changes a little, but it can't be too drastic.  I will not be refinishing in the future.  Sorry for so much changes, I think I am discovering more of what I am looking for as I am learning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="720" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-06-08T01:32:28.457" LastActivityDate="2020-02-25T14:59:02.713" Title="What would be considered the strongest finish?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1699" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1702" CreationDate="2015-06-07T10:42:52.317" Score="8" ViewCount="24719" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a piece of furniture with a glossy varnish finish. I like the existing color and grain pattern, but I would prefer it to be a matte finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I accomplish this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does rubbing out varnish ever cloud the grain and reduce the visibility?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current plan is to just buff out the varnish with sandpaper in increasing grits. Will this technique work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="720" LastEditorUserId="38" LastEditDate="2015-06-07T19:25:56.813" LastActivityDate="2015-06-07T20:22:38.553" Title="How can I reduce the gloss of a varnished piece of furniture?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1698" CreationDate="2015-06-07T15:11:30.407" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on the conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spar varnish is typically not as hard as poly, so it isn't as resistant to mechanical wear. However that also means it handles expanding/contracting wood better, and thus is a better choice for wood exposed to weather. Also, spar varnish often contains ingredients to block ultraviolet light, which can help wood retain its color when exposed to sunlight; again that's more important for outdoor wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spar varnish will usually add some yellow tones to the wood. Oil-based poly will do that too. Water-based poly typically dries transparent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can certainly use spar varnish indoors, if you like the look. I used it most recently on some window trim, which will get &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; direct sun and occasional raindrop. For most purposes it's a perfectly reasonable choice... but poly may be a bit cheaper, may go on easier, may clean up easier (if water based) and may change the color less (if water based); that last may or may not be an advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pick your trade-offs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-06-07T15:11:30.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1699" CreationDate="2015-06-07T15:27:03.867" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can reduce the gloss of an existing finish by gently wet sanding with 600 or 800 grit sandpaper. The higher the grit, the glossier the finish will be. In general, buffing will also increase glossiness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative solution would be adding a coat of compatible satin or matte poly or varnish on top of the existing finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastEditorUserId="38" LastEditDate="2015-06-07T19:33:59.320" LastActivityDate="2015-06-07T19:33:59.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1699" CreationDate="2015-06-07T20:22:38.553" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does rubbing out varnish ever cloud the grain and reduce the visibility? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, a matt varnish is inherently less clear than one that is glossy. It's just like the difference between frosted glass and regular glass in essence, only not so pronounced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The slight reduction in clarity is not usually a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My current plan is to just buff out the varnish with sandpaper in increasing grits. Will this technique work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No need to do that, you can do it in a single operation by just rubbing down with fine steel wool; you can do it dry or lubricated with wax if you prefer. This is the classic method to reduce the sheen on a film finish (shellac, varnish and lacquer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do ensure the varnish has had a chance to cure and get hard beforehand. This will take from a couple of days to a week or longer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-06-07T20:22:38.553" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1698" CreationDate="2015-06-07T20:28:17.267" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I want the most durable overall. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not spar varnish then. Spar varnishes are actually relatively soft, and thus are prone to marring from abrasion that a typical indoor polyurethane would shrug off. They're also &lt;em&gt;significantly&lt;/em&gt; more yellow than regular varnish in case you were unaware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want to look into marine epoxy coatings. Extremely strong in almost every way. But be warned, they are not cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-06-07T20:28:17.267" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1704" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1706" CreationDate="2015-06-07T23:41:27.350" Score="6" ViewCount="3000" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the pros and cons of applying more coats of polyurethane?  I know with more coats the flaws are amplified, but doesn't more coats protect the wood better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="720" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-06-08T02:41:38.630" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T21:14:53.667" Title="What are the implications of using multiple polyurethane coats?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1695" CreationDate="2015-06-08T02:46:05.780" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since 2009, every new saw sold in the US is required to include a riving knife. However, prior to 2009, many saws had traditional splitters which are not as effective at preventing kickback as riving knives, as discussed in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/q/1013/49&quot;&gt;What is the difference between a riving knife and a splitter on a table saw?&lt;/a&gt; (which you also referenced in your question).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do have an older saw, your options will vary based on the popularity of your saw, but there are at least a couple commercially-available aftermarket riving knife options on the market; for example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theborkstore.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BORK&lt;/a&gt; (Bolt-On Ripping Knife)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thesharkguard.com/sharksplitter.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shark Guard&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also mentioned these in the original version of your question, and I haven't run across any other commercially-available aftermarket riving knives that I recall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to commercially-available options, some people have also crafted their own custom riving knives for their older saws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://workshop.electronsmith.com/content/making-my-own-riving-knife/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://workshop.electronsmith.com/content/making-my-own-riving-knife/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.garymkatz.com/ToolReviews/riving_knife.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.garymkatz.com/ToolReviews/riving_knife.html&lt;/a&gt; - In this example, it looks like the saw basically had support for a riving knife already but probably only included a riving knife-style splitter with a permanently-attached blade guard. Many saws sold today include either a standalone riving knife and separate riving knife-style splitter with integrated blade guard and anti-kickback pawls, or a convertible riving knife with a blade guard and anti-kickback pawls which can both be easily added and removed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on one &lt;a href=&quot;http://ggober.com/shop/p66splitter.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; I found, it seems the design of the arbor assembly on the original Powermatic 66 cannot be modified to accommodate a true riving knife, which raises, lowers, and tilts with the blade. If you cannot retrofit a riving knife on your older saw, there is a less convenient but somewhat viable workaround. This involves making several zero-clearance throat plates, each with an integrated splitter at a different location based on the hight of the saw blade. In addition to custom solutions, there is at least one commercially-manufactured option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodcraftmagazine.com/FreeStuff/Table_Saw_Safety.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Woodcraft Magazine&lt;/a&gt; article on table saw safety (includes instructions for making a custom throat plate splitter)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.microjig.com/products/mj-splitter/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MicroJig MJ Splitter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The obvious downside is that you basically need a separate throat plate for roughly each height you want to cut, and even then you can only handle cuts with the blade set to 90 degrees. Perhaps you could also make custom integrated splitter throat plates for other angles, but it may not be practical or advisable. MicroJig's MJ Splitter is only designed for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.microjig.com/information_center/slideshows/mj-splitter/mj-splitter-beforebuy.shtml#7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;90 degree cuts&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T03:47:14.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1704" CreationDate="2015-06-08T07:56:09.423" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What are the pros and cons of applying more coats of polyurethane? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are really no cons to applying more coats of poly, within reason. Cost does go up with each layer of course but this is inherent to all finishing; and you do get something for the additional outlay, be it improved looks or surface protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With each additional layer there is the chance of additional surface defects — blebs, dust specs etc. — however, these can be almost entirely avoided with proper setup and application procedure (and can anyway be fixed relatively easily if they do occur).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fact is today it is common to &lt;em&gt;under&lt;/em&gt;-varnish, because very often the focus when finishing is on looks rather than protection. For example, if varnishing a piece with wipe-on poly it's not uncommon for woodworkers to use just enough coats to get the sheen they want, which may mean 3-5. But wipe-on poly is diluted polyurethane varnish, so each layer is inherently thinner than regular varnish and the wiping application also tends to deposit a thinner coat than brush-application would anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So six coats of wipe-on may only be the equivalent of only &lt;em&gt;two&lt;/em&gt; coats of regular poly. And three or four undiluted coats is often the ideal number to reach the full protective potential of polyurethane (primarily maximum water-resistance).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I know with more coats the flaws are amplified&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's not really the case. It can be, but there are many variables. And often you seek to, and can, rectify flaws with each additional layer, building towards the final blemish-free finished project. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T07:56:09.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1707" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1710" CreationDate="2015-06-08T16:49:11.003" Score="3" ViewCount="9728" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have in the past dispensed with a box spring and used 1/2&quot; plywood to almost completely cover the mattress base. The advantage is that the mattress has uniform support and never shows the dents from the slats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main disadvantage is that 1/2&quot; is rather heavy for taking off on a weekly basis to vacuum under the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would I get away with 3/8&quot;, or even with 1/4&quot;, plywood? My hunch is that 1/4&quot; is plenty of thickness to support an average-weight (150-200 lb.) adult. But it has to also support the weight of the adult standing, for otherwise a simple exercise like changing the ceiling lamps would crack the base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rephrasing and summarizing: what is the fir/spruce plywood thickness needed to support an individual on a span of 38&quot; (half the span of a King-sized bed)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="722" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T19:37:31.637" Title="What is the minimum thickness of plywood needed to support an adult on a 38&quot; span?" Tags="|plywood|weight-capacity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1708" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1715" CreationDate="2015-06-08T16:57:53.317" Score="13" ViewCount="41850" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I borrowed a Kreg jig from a friend and was using some scrap 2x4's to work on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/204/community-project-lets-build-a-workbench&quot;&gt;Community Project: Lets build a workbench!&lt;/a&gt;. Unfortunately I came to an impasse. I went to 3 local hardware stores on none of them carried &quot;pocket screws&quot; when I asked for them by that name. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure I &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; order the genuine article from the Kreg website but I am more interested in what other hardware alternatives are there to pocket screws? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-16T16:43:08.487" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T06:14:20.127" Title="What alternatives are there for pocket screws?" Tags="|screws|community-project|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1708" CreationDate="2015-06-08T16:57:53.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I can see of the pocket screws and their intended purpose you can find similar properties in screws that have pan or truss like heads. Basically a wide head with a flat bottom. You can also get screws with washer heads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended getting screws advertised as Particle Board screws. They had a washer head and looked similar to this. The ones I purchased were threaded all the way unlike typical pocket screws. It is also important to use self tapping / type-17 screws. Like Doresoom points out: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It's a huge pain to drill a pilot hole at the same angle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xnKkm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xnKkm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Washer Head screw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would still be curious to know of any other ideas people have. I suppose you could also just purchase washers which you could partner with other screws but that would be a costly venture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2019-03-17T23:30:05.203" LastActivityDate="2019-03-17T23:30:05.203" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1707" CreationDate="2015-06-08T17:01:50.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suspect that a 3/8&quot; would be enough.  If you want to screw your slats to the bottom of the plywood, you could use the 1/4&quot; plywood.  3-4 slats would be enough to stiffen up the 1/4&quot; to handle most of the abuse you'll be likely to throw at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T17:01:50.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1708" CreationDate="2015-06-08T17:07:55.500" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The important parts are to have self-tapping screws (unless you want to do a little predrilling before using the screws, not recommended) and having a flat surface on the bottom of the head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on what you expect it to need to bear, most screws would handle this fairly well.  However, the Kreg pocket hole screws are HARD.  Your average deck screw is very soft in comparison.  I accidentally hit one with my biscuit joiner and totaled the blade.  It also made a terrible racket and barely touched the screw.  So that would be the biggest difference between them and some other screw you would likely use that looks similar.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T17:07:55.500" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1712" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-08T19:26:18.000" Score="3" ViewCount="1600" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a house that was built 1904. The mullions, etc., were secured with brass woodscrews through brass housings than are much like grommets in appearance. I do not know what they are called.&#xA;I need some, as the previous owner started several projects and promptly lost the 'grommets'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="723" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T06:40:39.887" Title="Mullion Brass Grommets?" Tags="|screws|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1707" CreationDate="2015-06-08T19:37:31.637" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you still plan to use the slats, you can go pretty thin with whatever material you put over them to smooth out the spaces between the slats. 1/4&quot; plywood should would work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T19:37:31.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1708" CreationDate="2015-06-09T10:21:40.243" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not a direct answer to your question but thought I'd add that if you can find a screw of suitable overall form but it's unfortunately not self-tapping you can modify them so that they are. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Any&lt;/em&gt; screw can be modified to make it self-tapping, and the process is surprisingly easy. All that's required is to create clearance and effectively a cutting edge, or more than one, and the existing threading takes care of the rest (just as it does on manufactured self-tapping screws).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a lot of work but it can be a very quick operation, literally a few seconds per screw at fastest. So I'll concentrate on the fast-and-dirty method instead of those that create a groove similar to that seen on many commercial types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grip your screw in gloved fingers or pliers (pad jaws to prevent crushing the threads) and hold it against a grinder or belt sander to create one flat face on it, approximately 1/3 of the way up the threads. Ideally it should retain its original point, looking something like this when you're done:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dEkX2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Screw converted to self-tapping&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bingo, your screw has just become self-tapping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T10:21:40.243" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1716" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1735" CreationDate="2015-06-09T11:32:06.593" Score="13" ViewCount="11187" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that it is even possible, how can you take a screw with a normal thread and point and make it into a pseudo self tapping screw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Screw on the right (assuming its uniform all the way around) would be a normal screw while the one of the left would be self tapping as it has a type-17 point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qcktx.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screws&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://shehfung.en.alibaba.com/product/256679095-209461993/Chipboard_Screw_Flat_Head_Pozi_Type_17.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Alibaba&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As this would be something that you would be doing to dozens of screws, in theory, the process should be rather simple to repeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-06-09T12:02:42.833" LastActivityDate="2021-04-24T11:52:01.943" Title="How can you make a regular screw into a self tapping screw?" Tags="|screws|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1716" CreationDate="2015-06-09T13:19:32.827" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say you are going into the realm of metal working with this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also say that having a router bit for metal, and a simple jig to guide the screws are about your best bet, at least for being able to do more than 4 an hour.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would really recommend paying the money for self tapping or make a jig to make pilot holes where you need them at the angle you need them at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;Matt pointed out an answer from someone else that shows a decently made self tapping screw.  It appeared to me that the end was ground down on one side.  So if you have a bench top grinder, a snap wrench to told the screw and something to push the end against the wheel (so you don't burn your fingers), you can do a little grinding on the tip, grinding one side flat.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-06-09T14:27:59.820" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T14:27:59.820" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1716" CreationDate="2015-06-09T13:28:10.020" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you need dozens of self-tapping screws, just buy self-tapping screws. Screws are cheap, and your time is worth more than any price difference between self-tapping and non-tapping screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another alternative is to pre-drill. You pre-drill to avoid splitting the wood and to help start the screw. The purpose of self-tapping screws is to avoid pre-drilling, and there are only a few cases in which you will save time or effort making your own self-tapping screws over pre-drilling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But suppose you're really in a bind. You cannot buy screws because all the stores have closed for the day, it's impractical to pre-drill your holes for whatever reason (I suspect this question is part of your pocket hole birdhouse series), and you need to get the project assembled &lt;em&gt;today&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that case, you have a few options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;clamp the screws in a vise, one at a time, and carve out the self-tapping flute with an angle grinder, rotary multi-tool (Dremel), or file&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;grab the screws one at a time with a set of pliers or locking pliers and grind the flute (or a flat, as illustrated in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/1715/49&quot;&gt;the answer you linked in your comment&lt;/a&gt;) on a bench grinder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way it should only take a few seconds per screw with an angle grinder or bench grinder. It may take a minute or more per screw if all you have is a rotary tool or file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I needed to cut many, I might make a jig by drilling a line of holes in a piece of 2x2 or 1x2 (depending on length of screw), cut the piece in half through the perforations on the bandsaw, and put a hinge on one end and a clamp on the other. Flip it open, drop a screw in each groove, then flip it closed and clamp it shut. Then use a grinder as mentioned earlier. I'm not sure this would save any time but it might help get more consistent results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T13:59:39.307" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="210" CreationDate="2015-06-09T14:17:55.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides using a plug cutter as suggested by FreeMan, you can cut plugs from a dowel. If you cannot find a commercially-manufactured dowel of the correct size or wood species, you can &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/q/1077/49&quot;&gt;make your own&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T14:17:55.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1720" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1722" CreationDate="2015-06-09T14:34:06.160" Score="13" ViewCount="26709" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both my table saw and my jointer have the option to be run as either 110, or 220.  I am wondering (assuming I have my choice of plugin's in a shop) is one better than the other.  I've heard that 220 will actually use less energy and be easier on the motor.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I can convert to 220, should I?  Is it more efficient and easier on the electric motors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T19:30:44.017" Title="110 vs 220 table saws and jointers" Tags="|table-saw|jointer|electrical-requirements|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1720" CreationDate="2015-06-09T14:50:32.277" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;220V devices run at lower currents since voltage and current are inversely related, and as such, require smaller conductors.  Smaller conductors in wire is cheaper, so installing a circuit to support 240V/15amp is cheaper than 120V/30amp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are efficiency improvements in motors when running at 240V, and even more so in running 3-phase power.  3 phase motors don't require a secondary winding to help start the motor, so they can be a bit simpler in constructions. However 3 phase power is typically only available in commercial or industrial environments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you already have it setup for 120V, then there probably isn't much benefit in converting for the fun of it, but if you were installing new, 220V would be preferable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T14:50:32.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1720" CreationDate="2015-06-09T15:36:37.453" Score="10" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am wondering (assuming I have my choice of plugin's in a shop) is one better than the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It all comes down to wattage. P = IR; i.e., Power (Watts) = Amps * Voltage. If a given tool draws 14A on a 120V circuit, the same tool will draw 7A on a 240V circuit. The more amps you send through a wire, the thicker (higher gauge) the wire you need, as touched upon by Steven. Your tool will draw the same wattage whether it's wired for 120V or 240V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me run through the rest of your question's components before coming back to the first part of your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've heard that 220 will actually use less energy...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason we use high voltage transmission lines for power distribution is that power is transmitted more efficiently over long distances at high voltage. For a given amount of power, you'll lose a certain percentage due to the resistance in the line itself. As current (amperage) increases, the resistance increases (resulting in a voltage drop--giving you an overall power loss), but if we decrease the current and increase the voltage, we can transmit the same amount of power with less line loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, for all practical purposes, if you're running 1-phase power in a hobby shop or even a small production shop, the line losses from your breaker box to the tool will be insignificant and it won't make a noticeable difference whether you're running 120V (110V) or 240V (220V). Your electric bill will be the same either way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One might be inclined to think that you should be using less energy because you're drawing fewer amps, but you're actually drawing power on one hot 120V leg and returning it on another hot 120V leg which is 180 degrees of phase with the first. The phase offset effectively doubles the voltage differential between the source and return, giving you 240V. A convenient (though technically incorrect) way to think about it in terms of what you see at your electric meter is that you're &quot;drawing&quot; that many amps from two 120V legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...and be easier on the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not so sure about this, but I doubt it. Maybe this is a misunderstanding of the difference between differences between different types of motors, or single-phase vs. 3-phase motors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 3-phase motor is simpler in design than a 1-phase motor because, as Steven mentioned in his answer, the 3-phase motor does not require a separate starter coil. 3-phase motors are also considered inherently more reliable by design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I can convert to 220, should I? Is it more efficient and easier on the electric motors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all your existing equipment does what you need it to do on 120V and you don't need any other equipment, there isn't really a compelling reason to install 240V circuits and switch your equipment over. However, if you plan on upgrading your table saw from a 1.5hp motor to a 3hp motor, for example, you will need to run it on a 240V circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're shopping for tools, you'll often see that a tool can be wired to run on either 120V or 240V. If it's advertised as being 120V-capable, be sure to also check the amperage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually for 120V, you need a 15A or 20A circuit. The maximum load allowed by code on a 20A circuit is actually 16A. Usually if the tool draws more than 16A, a 240V circuit is recommended since 120V circuits greater than 20A are not commonly installed in residential construction (at least, in the US). Upgrading a circuit from 20A to 30A isn't as simple as swapping out a breaker and receptacle, because to carry more amps, you also need a thicker wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting back to tool and voltage options--some tools, such as a bandsaw I was looking at a while back, are advertised as 120V/240V. However, in the case of that bandsaw, the tool actually required a 30A circuit in order to run on 120V. If you ever look at a tool like this and have to install a new circuit anyway, it makes more sense to go with the 240V circuit because it's more common to have a tool that's certified to run on 240V than one that's certified to run on a 30A, 120V circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-06-09T21:04:29.403" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T21:04:29.403" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1723" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1729" CreationDate="2015-06-09T20:58:19.620" Score="7" ViewCount="278" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a platform out of redwood to serve as the floor of a backyard playhouse. The wood comes from 2x4s that have been ripped to 3/4&quot; planks. The temperature will range from 30&amp;deg;F to 115&amp;deg;F with wide swings in humidity. Should I butt the boards up against each other or space them? If I space them, how much?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="81" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T11:38:36.633" Title="Proper spacing between floor boards to allow expansion?" Tags="|wood-movement|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1723" CreationDate="2015-06-09T21:05:12.017" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, wood moves, you want to space the boards to allow for expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A common way to space boards when doing decking is to use one of your fasteners as a gauge. e.g., a 2&quot; deck screw temporarily slid between the boards as you fasten the boards to the joists. You end up losing some screws that way, but it's the simplest method I've used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are fancy schmancy tools to do the same-- e.g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V3cCc.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;via &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.johnsonlevel.com/P/106/DeckMateProfessionalBoard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.johnsonlevel.com/P/106/DeckMateProfessionalBoard&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt you'd drop this one and forget it, hehe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Not an endorsement, just an fyi..)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2015-06-09T21:11:20.353" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T21:11:20.353" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="908" CreationDate="2015-06-09T22:03:32.877" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Graphus gave a great answer covering many of the design considerations and pretty much covered the strategies for dealing with movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shrinkage and expansion also vary by material (wood, MDF, OSB, plywood...), species, climate, and application, as well as other factors. If the humidity level is relatively consistent, you won't need to allow for as much movement as if you're building a piece of outdoor furniture which will be subjected to the elements, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you aren't sure how much movement to account for in your project, you can use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/shrinkulator.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shrinkulator&lt;/a&gt; to get an estimate based on the wood species you're using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-06-09T22:08:53.457" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T22:08:53.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9" CreationDate="2015-06-09T23:51:50.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know one turner who just puts them in the loft of a shed, and another who has a &quot;green room&quot; where he just puts all his turnings for drying. I'm not sure if he just calls it that, or if he has an actual humidity-controlled green room like what some people use for growing plants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also heard several turners talk about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com/paper-bag-drying.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wrapping up each piece in a paper bag&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T23:51:50.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9" CreationDate="2015-06-10T01:41:47.180" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best strategy I've seen is to rough turn, let dry, then finish turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule of thumb is to turn to a thickness 1/10th of the finished diameter. So a 10&quot; bowl would be rough turned to 1&quot; wall thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then pack the rough turned bowl in shavings in a paper bag, and set it aside to dry in a controlled fashion. Every couple of weeks, check for moisture level and/or change in weight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key though is consistent thickness. I've had bowls crack when the bottom was thicker than the sides- I assume the sides are drying faster, and therefore shrinking / putting stress on the piece until.. crack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to consider if you're cutting your own bowl blanks-- consider taking the pith out. In some woods, pith dries at a different rate than the other heartwood and definitely different than the sapwood. If you're buying bowl blanks, the pith is likely already cut out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T01:41:47.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1728" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1766" CreationDate="2015-06-10T08:19:38.653" Score="10" ViewCount="540" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to strip veneer off an old table?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been advised to use a piece of glass and scrape it off, and I also tried leaving a wet towel on it for a while then trying to rub it off (which works somewhat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2015-06-14T10:27:53.977" Title="How to strip veneer" Tags="|veneer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1723" CreationDate="2015-06-10T11:38:36.633" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you are suggesting your area has large humidity swings, if it is humid when you lay the wood down, I wouldn't leave gaps. If you do, you will find there will be large gaps between the boards after they do dry out. Since it is humid, the boards will be at their largest expansion. You will never run the risk of them warping/popping out due expansion. If the wood is extremely wet (like pressure treated wood), it will definitely shrink and never be as broad again, especially after a summer gets hot and dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T11:38:36.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1077" CreationDate="2015-06-10T12:11:01.093" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For completeness I would like to mention their are some commercial solutions available as well. This is one of several examples. It has parts that let you make dowels from 1/4&quot; to 1&quot; in diameter.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.leevalley.com/en/images/item/woodworking/drilling/05j4501s7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dowel maker&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=42331&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;LeeValley Tools&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one in particular functions on the same principal as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://woodgears.ca/dowel/making.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mattias Wandel's method&lt;/a&gt; shown in a couple of the answers here. There are two blades. The first one rough cuts the square stock, and the second details to create the dowel. Making square stock from wood should be a simple process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a financial standpoint this might only be something to consider it you plan to &lt;a href=&quot;http://chat.stackexchange.com/transcript/message/21885793#21885793&quot;&gt;&quot;dowel all the things&quot;&lt;/a&gt; to quote Peter Grace. For making one or two dowels here and there one of the other methods might be more viable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:50.250" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T13:30:15.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1731" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1732" CreationDate="2015-06-10T12:53:05.853" Score="12" ViewCount="39943" Body="&lt;p&gt;I realize I am still in the beginning phase of designing this but I want to make a guitar wall hanger.  The design as is will be a simple base plate (either plywood or 1x dimensional lumber) with 2 dowel rods set into the base plate.  The guitar will hang on the dowels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question:&#xA;Since even the most expensive dowels are vastly cheaper than the even the cheapest guitars, I want the dowels to be strong enough to not shear off while the guitar is hanging.  SO, is there a reference for how much weight a dowel will hold when inserted into a board?  If it helps, I doubt the dowel on the finished piece will be longer than 3 inches sticking out from the wall, and the guitar will likely be inserted as far back on the dowels as possible.  As for how much weight, most weigh between 5 and 15 pounds, so let's budget for 20 pounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="432" LastEditorUserId="432" LastEditDate="2015-06-10T13:35:33.933" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T15:37:14.197" Title="Is there a reference for how much weight a dowel rod can support before breaking?" Tags="|dowel|strength|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1731" CreationDate="2015-06-10T13:08:01.960" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;While a 1/4&quot; pair of dowels would likely be able to hold a guitar if left alone, a good twisting bump might break them off.  A 1/2&quot; dowel would be plenty, and I think a 3/4&quot; dowel (at 3-4&quot;) would be able to hold me without breaking (200 lbs.)  I would recommend 1/2&quot; since that would be plenty strong and still small enough not to be obvious for your display.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I am assuming that most of these guitars are under 20 lbs. I think most are under 10 lbs.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Found this one for dowels starting at 1.5&quot; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.agriculture.purdue.edu/fnr/faculty/Eckelman/pdf/fpj57%285%2960-64.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.agriculture.purdue.edu/fnr/faculty/Eckelman/pdf/fpj57%285%2960-64.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-06-10T13:31:24.360" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T13:31:24.360" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1731" CreationDate="2015-06-10T14:15:56.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you considered strengthening it? Perhaps it seems like cheating, but given what it will be holding, I would be tempted to put a screw into the dowel just to give it some additional strength. Instead of drilling a hole all the way through the base plate for each dowel, drill only partially through on both sides of the plate. Drill a pilot hole for the screw through the base plate and into the dowel, and then put a screw in to hold the dowel. Put a plug on the other side to hide the screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T14:15:56.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1731" CreationDate="2015-06-10T15:37:14.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem with your design isn't the dowels.  Any reasonably sized dowel can hold that much &lt;strong&gt;when supported from both ends.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dowels will be acting as a first class lever at the joint of them and your base plate.  1x dimensional lumber is thinner than 1&quot; and so is most plywood.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With even a small amount of weight at ~2&quot; out you will get some flex at that joint.  If these dowels are parallel to the ground as you seem to imply, that slight amount of flex will turn your dowels into &lt;strong&gt;ramps.&lt;/strong&gt;  Vibrations from people walking will eventually wiggle them off the ends to the their death.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to beef up that joint.  An easy way to do that is to double up your 1x stock, drill a hole the &lt;em&gt;exact&lt;/em&gt; same size as your dowel rod (measure; they're not always what they say), and hammer your dowel in so it's real tight.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I say double up the 1x because then you can get a bit of a design going, e.g. a smaller plate in front center on a bigger plate in the back.  Nothing too complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, yeah.  Stain your parts before you assemble and it will turn out beautiful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="706" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T15:37:14.197" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1716" CreationDate="2015-06-10T18:01:29.740" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any screw can be modified to make it self-tapping and the process is surprisingly easy. All that's required is to create one or more cutting edges and the clearance needed for the swarf, and the existing threading takes care of the rest (just as it does with manufactured self-tapping screws).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The modification necessary can be a very quick operation, literally a few seconds per screw at fastest. Even the slowest method really only requires a modest effort, taking at most a couple of minutes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This simplest method it to sand or grind the side of the screw; grip your screw in gloved fingers or pliers (pad jaws to prevent crushing the threads) and hold it against a belt sander or grinder until a flat face has been created that is approximately 1/3 of the way up the threads. Ideally it should retain its original point, looking something like this when you're done:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dEkX2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Screw converted to self-tapping&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another method more directly copies the form of commercial self-tapping screws, where you create a groove down the side of the screw somewhat like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8imZw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Screw converted to self-tapping, type 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As most screws are made of mild steel this can be done using any common triangular needle or warding file, or a Western saw-sharpening file. For those with a Dremel-type mini drill a cutting disk/slitting disk can be used to do a similar job but care must be taken not to cut too deeply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once modified in either of these ways a screw can usually (not always) be driven in and left there as the fastener, without any compromise in holding power. But alternatively the one screw can be used repeatedly, i.e. used as a threading tool. After driving home it can be backed out of the hole and an unmodified screw of the same type driven in its place; so within reason this modification might only need to be done once per screw type for any project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; it is probably best not to try to convert brass screws, it is likely they will not be strong enough to take the strain and they could easily snap in half when being driven into the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I was pulling together images for this Answer I discovered that, no surprise, this tip is nothing new. Here's a mention of it in &lt;em&gt;Popular Mechanics&lt;/em&gt; from November 1923:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T6UFt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tapping screw, Popular Mechanics, Nov &amp;#39;23&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bonus related point — threading holes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A similar process can actually be used on &lt;em&gt;anything with a thread&lt;/em&gt; to allow you to tap a thread in a drilled hole of suitable diameter. This can be done with bolts of course, but just a length of threaded rod (including acme-threaded rod as commonly used in bench vices) can be modified in the same way, to tap wood and other softer materials such as the harder plastics used for some jigs and accessories, as well as aluminium. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although some modern guides suggest grinding substantial grooves down the length of your bolt/threaded rod, it is far simpler and easier to file, sand or grind 2-4 flats onto the lower portion of the bolt or threaded rod, as in either of these examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aPD3q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Improvised taps&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T18:01:29.740" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1736" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1737" CreationDate="2015-06-10T21:00:21.327" Score="2" ViewCount="1447" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for an explanation of the terms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dovetail I can pretend to understand, as it is what it is. But Kerf? Dado? Rabbet? Tenon and Mortise? There are of course many more but these are my current concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know what a kerf is, but the name does not match common parlance and to my mind begs an explanation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="727" LastEditorUserId="727" LastEditDate="2015-06-15T05:16:34.383" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T05:16:34.383" Title="What do Kerf, Dado, Rabbet, Tenon and Mortise mean?" Tags="|terminology|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ClosedDate="2015-06-11T02:37:31.920" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1736" CreationDate="2015-06-10T22:27:46.443" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;Kerf&lt;/b&gt; From Old English &lt;i&gt;cyrf&lt;/i&gt;, cutting, a cut&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/kerf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/kerf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;b&gt;Dado&lt;/b&gt; I can't find an answer for this one. But this is an interesting read: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodworkinghistory.com/glossary_dado.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.woodworkinghistory.com/glossary_dado.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;b&gt;Rabbet&lt;/b&gt; From Old French &lt;i&gt;rabat&lt;/i&gt;, a recess or reduction&lt;br /&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://etymonline.com/index.php?term=rabbet&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://etymonline.com/index.php?term=rabbet&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;b&gt;Tenon&lt;/b&gt; From Old French &lt;i&gt;tenir&lt;/i&gt;, to hold&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://etymonline.com/index.php?term=tenon&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://etymonline.com/index.php?term=tenon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;b&gt;Mortise&lt;/b&gt; From Old French &lt;i&gt;mortaise&lt;/i&gt;, same meaning; possibly from Arabic &lt;i&gt;murtazz&lt;/i&gt;, fastened&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://etymonline.com/index.php?term=mortise&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://etymonline.com/index.php?term=mortise&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;b&gt;Mitre&lt;/b&gt; From Old French &lt;i&gt;mitre&lt;/i&gt;, possibly in reference to the shape of an ecclesiastical mitre&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://etymonline.com/index.php?term=miter&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://etymonline.com/index.php?term=miter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Now go forth and read &lt;a href=&quot;http://d.lib.rochester.edu/teams/text/shuffelton-codex-ashmole-61-debate-of-the-carpenters-tools&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Debate of the Carpenter's Tools&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="81" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T22:27:46.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1738" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-11T00:05:39.013" Score="10" ViewCount="6000" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was honestly surprised to see that most modern drill presses still use belts and pulleys (and the manual changing of them) to accomplish variable speeds. Does this design offer certain benefits that other less cumbersome methods don't? Or have drill press manufacturers just been slow to adopt newer technologies that could address this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all the LEDs and lasers that seem to be appearing on newer models, it strikes me as silly that they still sport a stack of pulleys and belts for part of its core function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;VFD explained at &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Variable-frequency_drive&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="90" LastEditorUserId="400" LastEditDate="2015-12-07T15:16:21.597" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T11:09:35.050" Title="Why don't most modern drill presses use some form of VFD instead of manual belt-changes to adjust speed?" Tags="|tools|power-tools|drilling|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1738" CreationDate="2015-06-11T00:20:31.093" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Modern drill presses for the home market compete largely on price and on some other features like chuck size.   Variable speed machines - I have a 1200 US$ lathe with that feature - would you rather pay double for convenience?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got the lathe for production work 10 years ago.  Otherwise it would have made little sense financially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="650" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T00:20:31.093" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1728" CreationDate="2015-06-11T00:29:19.017" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Older tables usually mean hide glue.  Hide glue releases pretty well with warmth and a little moisture.  I've used an clothes iron (steal one from the house) and a moist thin cloth towel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Work a small 8-10 square.  Get it lifted off the surface by inserting a putty knife or a small flat metal spatula,  work well to loosen things - insert waxed paper or butcher paper in the lifted section between the wood surface and the veneer to prevent the veneer from re-adhering, and keep going.  When you have a decent loose hunk, break it off unless you plan to try to reuse it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="650" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T00:29:19.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1741" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1747" CreationDate="2015-06-11T00:49:19.287" Score="5" ViewCount="274" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having a wand made, and I wondered if wood cuts mattered.  I heard rift sawn wood is the best for strength in boards, but they only receive pressure from the surface.  A wand would only receive pressure on the long part and not the ends, but it would receive pressure from all around.  Is rift sawn still the strongest cut?  Does it matter?  Money is not an issue.  I care only about strength and durability over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="720" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-07-18T15:25:25.377" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T15:25:25.377" Title="Do wood cuts matter for wands?" Tags="|cutting|rift-sawn|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1742" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1745" CreationDate="2015-06-11T00:55:30.457" Score="6" ViewCount="1636" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having a wand made and I wondered what the best finish would be.  Money is not an issue, and neither is skill.  I do not care about the aesthetics (color/scrapes), but need it to not come off.  Im not going to be refinishing it.  It would not be exposed to sun often, but may be taken outside about once or twice a year.  Thus it would not experience much weather change because the house stays relatively the same temperature.  However, it would be exposed to humidity and wear from hands.  Can varnish wear off by rubbing?  I need the strongest finish for these specifications.  Any recommendations?  I would need a type (example: water polyurethane) not a brand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="720" LastEditorUserId="38" LastEditDate="2015-06-11T03:11:12.867" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T06:54:40.630" Title="Finish for a wand" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1741" CreationDate="2015-06-11T01:20:21.960" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Warning:&lt;/strong&gt; Depending who you mean by rift-sawn it can also mean quarter-sawn. In &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/476/what-are-the-different-uses-for-plain-sawn-flat-sawn-rift-sawn-and-quarter-s&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; it was understood that modern quarter-sawn wood is what you are describing. I am going to refer to quarter-sawn from here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless your wood stock is from a twig I would guess that the wood you end up with will have the grain of Quarter-Sawn anyway because of its size. This is of course assuming the length of the wand is perpendicular to the grain.... which you would want (I refer you to &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/1747/128&quot;&gt;Graphus' answer&lt;/a&gt; for a visual representation of my meaning). This type of wood is favoured by furniture makers as it is less likely to warp. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a wood to be Quarter-Sawn it has to average 60 degree to 90 degree in grain direction. With a wood diameter that small you &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; get that (Again I refer you to &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/1747/128&quot;&gt;Graphus' answer&lt;/a&gt; for a visual representation). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have not discussed wood selection yet and that is harder to answer since I do not know your location but oak, hickory, elm and white ash would be good choices to consider. They are primary choices for tool handles and I think would fit well here.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1363/is-there-a-better-way-to-make-a-wand&quot;&gt;Another question&lt;/a&gt; here covers some simple methods in making wands if you were so inclined. Part of me feels you are having it made for you but good information none the less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wood features to avoid&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two most important things I would &lt;em&gt;avoid&lt;/em&gt; when choosing wood, especially for this project, is &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/74/why-should-i-avoid-using-the-pith-section-of-quarter-sawn-lumber&quot;&gt;avoid the pith&lt;/a&gt; and, in general, knotting wood. Using either is asking for a premature break. Like if the knot was to cross the entire diameter of the wand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T15:13:42.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1744" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1748" CreationDate="2015-06-11T02:35:11.233" Score="15" ViewCount="1516" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a hobbyist who spends a lot of time manually preparing &quot;plaques&quot; of wood primarily for the purpose of relief carving and/or pyrography. I have very few tools, but what I do have (relevant to this question) includes a manual hand plane and a random-orbit sander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find when I am levelling out wood with my plane, I get little pits (likely I suspect from the blade chipping against denser areas. This frequently occurs with greater frequency at the end of the stroke. Worst, is these pits are impossible to sand out. These pits seem to fill with sawdust and I am guessing this continuously distributes the motion and force of sanding continuously propagating these blemishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have observed this problem in every type of wood I have had to work with, specifically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;white and red pine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;poplar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;maple&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;walnut&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;red oak (super bad chipping while planing)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but is definitely the worst in the harder woods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions or recommendations to help improve the quality of the surface while manually levelling out my working surface?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="729" LastEditorUserId="983" LastEditDate="2016-02-01T02:51:12.067" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T02:51:12.067" Title="Recommendation for manual planing and sanding" Tags="|hand-tools|sanding|plane|hand-planing|surface-preparation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1742" CreationDate="2015-06-11T08:44:30.163" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;General point first, there is no best finish for any job because part of what constitutes 'best' is down to the taste of the individual, which is obviously highly variable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to that practical considerations come into play for the woodworker, a high-end finish that gives excellent performance might not be picked on the basis of its high cost or because of a short shelf-life (too great a potential for waste). Another reason could be simply down to an issue with application, either it's too challenging to apply well for the project at hand (e.g. superglue finish on intricate carving) or where a finish must be sprayed and there is no spray equipment available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;but need it to not come off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just remember that everything has a finite lifespan. No wood finish is 100% guaranteed not to fail, ever. (But see last point below.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can varnish wear off by rubbing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, but strong varnishes are highly wear resistant — as seen on the edges of dining tables where wear-through can take years of regular use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I need the strongest finish for these specifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps you don't. Instead consider whether a finish that is easily repairable would be better, so with regular upkeep — easily done by the user, not the original woodworker — you continually restore it rather than attempting to rely on a film finish that will fail eventually (even if after many years of service). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two good options in this area that are widely available, relatively inexpensive and easily applied without prior experience: boiled linseed oil (often shortened to BLO) and tung oil (must be pure tung oil, not &quot;tung oil finish&quot; which may contain no tung oil at all). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the initial finish is built up over a week or longer of daily applications and buffing, a couple of additional coats in the first year and one coat per year after that will maintain the finish in good condition for decades, perhaps indefinitely if upkeep is maintained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T08:44:30.163" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1744" CreationDate="2015-06-11T08:54:40.097" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is likely to be related to the direction of the grain:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ntqye.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you should pick the direction of planing depending on which way the grain slopes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately however, some timbers (particularly some types of hardwood) have &quot;interlocked&quot; or &quot;wavy&quot; grain:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iPGJn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best thing I can suggest is that you get yourself a belt-sander as it's quite easy to remove these pits with one, or as somebody else mentioned you can try using a scraper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Images are taken from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.startwoodworking.com/post/guide-wayward-ways-wood-grain&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;wood grain guide&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; where there is a more general and complete guide to wood grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T08:54:40.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1741" CreationDate="2015-06-11T09:14:42.747" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am having a wand made, and I wondered if wood cuts mattered. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically no it shouldn't. Assuming I am imagining the form of the wand correctly, the grain will run across the cross-section in nearly exactly the same way irrespective of the cut of the original piece of wood:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tnqDs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Quarter- v. plain-sawn cross sections&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Grain orientation in the &lt;em&gt;other&lt;/em&gt; direction on the other hand might contribute greatly to whether you end up with a stronger or weaker piece. If the wand is straight (somewhat like a drumstick or a conductor's baton) then straight grain that runs the full length will give the strongest result, but if there is what is called grain run-out (second image below) it will be more prone to failure if subjected to sideways forces:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rDuQr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Grain runout&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note this is only relatively weak, very strong woods like oak and hickory can be very resilient even if the grain is less than ideal (as is the case on many modern axe and hammer handles for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I heard rift sawn wood is the best for strength in boards, but they only receive pressure from the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other things being equal quarter-sawn should be the strongest, and most stable (in addition to having the visual characteristics that it is often valued for). As Matt's answer already covers, some rift-sawn planks will effectively be quarter-sawn wood, but not all. So strength (and stability) of rift-sawn wood can be highly variable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T09:14:42.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1744" CreationDate="2015-06-11T10:34:39.823" Score="19" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;when I am levelling out wood with my plane, I get little pits (likely I suspect from the blade chipping against denser areas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is called &lt;em&gt;tearout&lt;/em&gt;, it is not caused by denser areas of the wood (in fact it can be common in softer sections of a piece of wood). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It occurs when bundles of wood fibres literally tear free from the surface of the board instead of being cut neatly by the plane's iron (plane blades are now commonly referred to as irons). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The usual recommendation of a solution to this is to plane 'uphill', where the grain rises upwards and away from the direction you are cutting, versus 'downhill', where it is rising towards the edge of the iron. However not every board is uniform in grain and it is very common to find areas of rising grain in just one portion of a board that is otherwise easily planed (this is the case both on the faces as well as the edges of boards). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some species are well known for having grain that can frequently change direction, and hard maple and certain types of oak are commonly noted for this characteristic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any suggestions or recommendations to help improve the quality of the surface while manually levelling out my working surface? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be impossible to avoid, but there are a few things that can minimise the problem. Most are adjustments to the plane itself, some of which are obvious and some are not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reading grain&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Before we get to plane adjustments one thing you can do in all cases is strive to plane in the correct direction, &lt;em&gt;even if this means changing the direction you plane multiple times over the surface of the wood&lt;/em&gt;. This is not as easy to do as it is to write, but it can be used as part of the fix for this problem and many experienced woodworkers do this when required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than attempt to exhaustively cover &lt;em&gt;how&lt;/em&gt; to read grain here (would make for an excessively long answer) I'll just link to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/reading-grain-direction&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this detailed piece on Popular Woodworking&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to the plane itself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Plane tweaks&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There are three things to look at:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the sharpness of the iron&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cap iron setting &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;blade projection&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should evident that you should strive to have your plane iron as sharp as you can possibly make it. This is always preferable anyway, but here the sharper an iron is the more likely it can cut through tricky grain rather than have it rise up and break free from the wood surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second adjustment is not at all obvious and that is the setting of the cap iron (commonly called a chipbreaker today). For easy planing on wood with simple grain this can be set back from the cutting edge, possibly 1.5mm (1/16&quot;). But it can be set much closer than this, and should be where a finer surface is desired as well as when experiencing tearout. For this it can be set &quot;as close as you dare&quot; as one woodworking guru puts it. Which in practice can be a fraction of a millimetre, e.g. 0.2mm (0.008&quot;) &lt;em&gt;or less&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, projection. If you adjust your plane to take the thinnest shaving possible tearout is minimised anyway, combined with the above two tweaks you can eliminate it entirely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measuring the thickness of plane shavings accurately is fraught with difficulties and not everyone has a digital calliper anyway, so visually the shavings should be whispy, sometimes described as &quot;lacy&quot;, and at thinnest should barely hold together if handled. More like the ones at top than the ones at bottom in this image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZwA3p.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Plane shavings compared&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find that you cannot bring everything together so that you get no tearout at all, it should at least be minimised. To tackle the last of it I would recommend that you switch from sanding to scraping as much as possible for final smoothing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scraping&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Card scrapers are inexpensive and produce a surface that is actually superior to sanding with less effort, and often faster (even when compared to power sanding). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A9DyS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Card scraping&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-w.com/lessonsguides/lessonsguides-mastering-the-card-scraper.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mastering The Card Scraper&lt;/a&gt;]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of all, a single scraper will last you your entire life so they are effectively &lt;em&gt;the equivalent of an infinite amount of sandpaper&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T10:34:39.823" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1741" CreationDate="2015-06-11T12:50:01.303" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your title question &lt;code&gt;Does the cut of wood matter?&lt;/code&gt;, unless the wand is going to be used by the 2- to 4-year-old set to beat on everything in sight, I don't think that the strength or cut of wood is going to matter in the least so long as you go beyond small twig size in diameter. If this is being made as a keepsake for someone it will, most likely, sit on a shelf and be played with on occasion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My daughter has several manufactured (plastic/resin) &quot;Harry Potter&quot; wands which sit in their closed boxes, and she'll get them out once or twice a year to fiddle with them for a few minutes. Granted, she's 18 now, so not quite as fanatical as when she was 12, but even when she was younger, the handling was gentle, as she viewed them more as a collector's item/keepsake than an actual toy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if it's being made for &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Live_action_role-playing_game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;LARP&lt;/a&gt; use, that would likely involve older people (beyond the 2- to 4-year-old set) who would likely take care in the use of the wand, and wouldn't throw it, beat on people, rocks, or trees, with it, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm posting as an answer to this question in particular, but I feel it applies to all of your &lt;code&gt;I'm having a wand made&lt;/code&gt; questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T12:50:01.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1738" CreationDate="2015-06-11T16:31:08.803" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just a guess, but most items with a variable speed have the power belt vertical.  All drill presses have the belt horizontal.  Maybe that is part of the cost of the redesign that makes it unpalatable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T16:31:08.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1741" CreationDate="2015-06-11T16:33:02.707" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as the grain goes in the same direction as the long dimension of the wand you are good.  If the grain goes across the length of the wand it will be much weaker and easily break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T16:33:02.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1742" CreationDate="2015-06-11T16:36:30.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Almost everything I turn I use Carnuba Wax, it is mixed with mineral spirits to make it softer and easier to apply, but once dried it is the hardest natural wax out there and is supposed to be hypo-allergenic.  It's also easy to reapply if you feel the need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T16:36:30.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1744" CreationDate="2015-06-11T16:56:29.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As tear out is the wood being pulled instead of cut, having your blade sharp is a must.  2nd, having the plane blade too aggressive (sticking out) is also more likely to cause these kinds of issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The direction of the planing in relation to the grain is also very important and both WhatEvil and Graphus went into detail about that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and using a well tuned scraper when you are getting close can also reduce the tear out and maybe even eliminate the need for sanding.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T16:56:29.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1755" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1757" CreationDate="2015-06-12T02:40:33.780" Score="8" ViewCount="310" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking for pallet inspired projects and I came along this picture of a small box. It has a nice clean inlay of a scorpion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kPxA7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Scorpion Box&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/projects/74048&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;LumberJocks&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many users on the forum, where this picture was posted, were very interested in how this was made. The OP eventually responded:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I masked, cut, and spray painted the scorpion on the second box. I use Krylon brand spray paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wondering if I could get a couple of points cleared up in how this was done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The lines look very defined. How might the mask / template been made? I would have expected the paint to bleed or something.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The colour of the inlay looks non uniform. Is that just some creative sanding or is something more sinister at work?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mostly I am curious as what I can do to get clean lines like that. Forgive me if this is very simple. It just seems more robust than a cardboard cutout. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2019-02-07T18:03:14.013" LastActivityDate="2019-02-07T18:03:14.013" Title="How can I make this faux inlay?" Tags="|technique|inlay|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1755" CreationDate="2015-06-12T10:22:14.453" Score="13" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The lines look very defined. How might the mask / template been made? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mask could have been cut from a purpose-made masking material as used by airbrush artists, called frisket. But any self-adhesive plastic film can be used similarly. Adhesive vinyl is often used for this sort of thing today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage of frisket is that it is extremely thin and as a result it is very easy to cut directly on the surface to be sprayed, with almost no pressure. Any very sharp knife can be used, e.g. craft knife, scalpel or even a boxcutter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Homemade versions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If any manufactured self-adhesive plastic cannot be found locally, or the cost is prohibitive, an equivalent is simply made. Start with acetate sheets (as used in overhead projectors) and coat one side with spray adhesive. Spray, wait a short while until the glue has become tacky, then press down well; the back of a spoon or a hard rubber roller (brayer) will help here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something similar can also be done using common hairspray and thin tracing paper or baking parchment, but here you spray and immediately press the paper onto the surface. Obviously this will not cut as cleanly as plastic but with a very sharp knife good results are still possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some adhesive residue may remain with either of the above techniques. The ideal solvent for commercial spray glue is usually mineral spirits/white spirit, and for hairspray it is alcohol. In these cases it may be best to use stains that don't react with the relevant solvent, so oil-based stain if using alcohol and waterbase or alcohol-based stains if using spirits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;Cheating&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Many commercial vinyl printing operations will be able to cut a mask for you! They can use various electronic file types, e.g. Illustrator files, to guide their plotters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I would have expected the paint to bleed or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously the mask being adhered to the surface will largely prevent this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when adhesive film is not used careful spraying can nearly eliminate the problem. The main techniques are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spray lightly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spray at 90° to the surface&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you spray very lightly the paint/stain particles don't form a wet film on the surface, which makes bleeding under an edge much less likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As much as possible you should spray perpendicular to the surface, any spray at an angle will tend to lift the edges will obviously lead to underspray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where a coloured finish is being used and not a conventional stain/dye another trick is to pre-seal the mask by spraying a thin coat of clear finish first. After this no bleeding is possible (in theory at least) and it does have one other issue, it tends to create a slight lip around the edges of the coloured areas once the mask is removed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The colour of the inlay looks non uniform. Is that just some creative sanding or is something more sinister at work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hard to tell. It could have been a whim of the creator or just accidental.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2015-06-12T10:33:57.113" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T10:33:57.113" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19" CreationDate="2015-06-12T14:22:52.103" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sanding across the grain sometimes cuts faster, but sanding with the grain lines the scratches up with the grain so they blend in better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you're going through the usual sequences of increasingly finer grits, it's really most important that the final pass (meaning the finest grit) be with the grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, one common suggestion for users of random-orbital sanders is to do a final light pass by hand with the grain to clean up any remaining cross-grain scratches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2015-06-12T22:37:25.650" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T22:37:25.650" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1728" CreationDate="2015-06-12T17:09:08.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would try an iron as well.  In addition, you can just use a scraper and sand off the glue when you are finished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="686" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T17:09:08.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="67" CreationDate="2015-06-12T19:28:54.730" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;One other common solution is heat. Heat your toolbox. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes the tools end up being colder than the surrounding air and the moisture condenses on the tool causing rust, heating would solve this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heating the air also lowers its relative humidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This might seem like a weird solution but it is fairly commonly used to protect firearms. And one of the more popular firearm solutions is basically a small electrically heated stick you place in a gun safe, like  &lt;a href=&quot;http://amzn.com/B00CYBDFWI&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;this&quot;&gt;this goldenrod dehumidifier&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="453" LastEditorUserId="453" LastEditDate="2015-06-18T20:56:36.853" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T20:56:36.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1761" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-12T20:06:42.603" Score="8" ViewCount="215" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently acquired an old oak table from my parents. I'm going to refinish it, but I have a problem to deal with first. I doubt I can describe it better than the pictures, so without further adieu...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oD0Vu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Full table view&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A5rOd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The problem part&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0H8mn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Side view&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This thin length of wood runs half way around the table, then there is a break for the leaves, then another length on the other side. I believe my father tried to mend this with wood glue and clamps a few times, so that might be what some of that gunk is. Does anyone have advice on how to remedy this? It is salvageable, or should I look to recreate it? Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="732" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T15:56:01.363" Title="Curved wood pealing away from table edge" Tags="|furniture|refinishing|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1761" CreationDate="2015-06-12T20:48:47.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not much for bending wood myself, don't have the tools to do it.  So I would try very hard to fix what is there.  The first thing would be to clean out all the old glue and get to nice clean surfaces to work with so the glue can do it's thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that I would glue it clamp it down very well and then from the inside run some screws through to help hold the slats peeling away.  I would drill the holes before gluing and clamping and make sure your screws are short enough, but I think that would get you quite a few more years of use out of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T20:48:47.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1763" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-13T16:51:18.757" Score="2" ViewCount="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;what is the main differences between hardwood and softwood? since some books say it is just to do with presences of pores or not. so i was confused that which wood contains pores or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="733" LastActivityDate="2015-06-13T16:51:18.757" Title="Differences between hardwood and softwood?" Tags="|sharpening|softwood|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-06-13T17:58:38.597" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1764" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-13T23:43:37.910" Score="3" ViewCount="3300" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to achieve this High-Gloss White Glass Finish with wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5aqfF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;picture of glossy white desk&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="734" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-06-18T04:25:04.370" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T04:25:04.370" Title="What is the best way to get a high gloss glass-like white finish?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2015-06-14T03:37:41.870" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1764" CreationDate="2015-06-14T02:32:43.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The shape is probably best achieved as bent lamination or bending plywood or plywood kerfed for bending over a form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Highly glossy surfaces can be achieved with wood -- consider a piano's finish -- with a lot of work carefully applying the finish, buffing it to smoothness, and repeating . But I'm guessing that in the case you're showing us, that's probably plastic (&quot;melamine&quot; or similar) as the outer surface of the laminated skin of the desk, unless this is a very high-end piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main use I see here for a router is trimming the edges of the skin, and maybe in the drawer joinery (though I wouldn't be surprised to find them built with dowelled joinery). Maybe some template routing when building the bending forms or support framework under the skin, to make sure shapes match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2015-06-14T03:19:26.893" LastActivityDate="2015-06-14T03:19:26.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1728" CreationDate="2015-06-14T10:27:53.977" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've been advised to use a piece of glass and scrape it off, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glass can make a very effective scraper but not for this type of thing. I think it could pose a very real danger to the user. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When scraping off something that is firmly adhered to a surface it is quite common for the tool to 'stall', come to a sudden halt, because it meets a great-than-average resistance at one spot or along one edge. This happens frequently when scraping wallpaper for example, which is far less strongly adhered than veneer would typically be. So I think you should take it that this isn't a &lt;em&gt;might happen&lt;/em&gt; when removing veneer, it is a &lt;em&gt;will happen&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And when it does the piece of glass could shatter in the user's hands, with the evident danger of one or more nasty cuts. And although of really secondary importance it also poses a risk to the surface you're working on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A steel scraper of one kind or another would be far preferable here (see bottom for specific recommendations). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I also tried leaving a wet towel on it for a while then trying to rub it off (which works somewhat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a good start but it's only one half of the usual solution which is moisture plus heat. You can use an iron over brown paper or any thin cloth after saturating the surface with water, the iron forces steam through the wooden veneer and swells and weakens the glue layer, allowing the veneer to be peeled away from the substrate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the theory at least. However, as is common with many things in practice it may not work as well as the description makes it sound. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first assumption here is that &quot;hide glue&quot; was used. In traditional veneer work a form of protein glue was often used (not always derived just from hides) and this does respond very well to heat and moisture. But that is by no means the only glue used in veneering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since just dampening the surface does appear to have been beneficial I will assume you are dealing with a protein glue. So here's a brief description of the method I would use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a sharp knife to deeply score the veneer. This serves two functions: first, it gives a certain entry to the water vapour in case there is a solid layer of finish still in place (which can be very water-resistant); second, it creates natural fracture lines that will allow the veneer to be more easily levered up in neat sections.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wet the area to be worked well with a cloth or sponge. A drop or two of dishwashing liquid in the water breaks surface tension and can aid with penetration.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply a hot iron — set on Cotton or Linen setting, you want it as hot as possible to force steam into the glue layer. Usually ironing is done over a damp towel or brown paper rather than directly on the surface of the wood (this is as much to protect the iron from getting glue residue burnt onto the sole plate).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After the heat from the iron has had a chance to have an effect (maybe a minute or so) begin scraping, working from an edge of the veneer where possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Continue working in small areas until all veneer has been removed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of types of scraper that you can use for this sort of work, but two good options are a triangular shavehook or a firm putty knife:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uIIm7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Two types of scraper&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Safety note:&lt;/strong&gt; wear gloves. This is to protect against the obvious danger of splinters from the fracturing veneer but also to prevent scalds as you are scraping up &lt;em&gt;hot&lt;/em&gt; wet wood and glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once all the veneer is off the substrate is exposed but will be covered in a thin film of glue, and likely a few lumps of it as well. This can be dealt with just by scraping dry if desired, a triangular shavehook is very good at tackling scraping of dried glue from a table surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you would prefer to work wet, a nylon scrubbing pad or other pot scourer (a new one!) can be used with hot water to scrub the glue residue from the surface. Change water at least once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once every trace of glue has been removed, allow the wood to dry thoroughly before doing anything else (a few hours to overnight). Once the surface is dry you can smooth it off using a &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1744/recommendation-for-manual-planing-and-sanding/1748#1748&quot;&gt;card scraper&lt;/a&gt; or by sanding, in preparation for whatever next step you wish to take.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2015-06-14T10:27:53.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1767" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1776" CreationDate="2015-06-14T13:13:51.103" Score="10" ViewCount="1599" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently put together a stationary combination work bench and cabinets out of 5/8 particle board and 9/8 &quot;benchtop&quot; (which appears to just be thick particle board). I previously made a work table from the same &quot;benchtop&quot; and applied an oil-based polyurethane finish to it without issue. However I had some water-based polyurethane around that I wanted to use up, both in matte and satin finish, so I applied a coat of the water-based matte finish to my new tops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To my surprise, the smooth face of the particle board became quite rough. Can I treat this like regular wood and just sand it back down before applying another coat of the water-based polyurethane, or do I need to try something else for my next coat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rough look of this combination work bench and cabinet is in this shot of the plans below, although I made a number of small changes on the fly and haven't updated the plans to match. The purple bits are intended to be slide-out drawers, and the teal bits are intended to be slide out shelves (that I'll probably mount at mixed heights), but I haven't built either of those yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7UyGN.png&quot; alt=&quot;combination work bench and cabinet&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, my question is about re-smoothing the &quot;benchtop&quot; particle board that the water-based polyurethane seems to have raised, whether another coat will cause more problems after I do so. (Or if I need to just cover it with a layer of hardboard.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I'm thinking of priming and possibly painting the rest of this cabinet; do I have to worry about raising the &quot;grain&quot; there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="485" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T11:07:55.183" Title="Finish raised the &quot;grain&quot;?" Tags="|finishing|workbench|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1767" CreationDate="2015-06-14T14:08:33.513" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could probably go through a few cycles of sanding/water-based finish and eventually get a flat and sealed surface, but if it was me, I'd sand flat and apply an oil-based primer (and follow with paint). If you must have a clear finish, sand more aggressively and use an oil based varnish-type finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water based finishes will always do what you've described to particle board, so should be avoided.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2015-06-14T14:08:33.513" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1769" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-15T02:09:02.703" Score="7" ViewCount="3123" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about make a replica Wii wheel for my kids out of wood. That would be about 6&quot; in diameter. It seems a tall order to me as I do not know how to make a concoction like that with any amount of accuracy. Let alone how to get the wood together to even start something like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jewelleryshed.co.uk/ekmps/shops/jewelleryshed/images/5-x-brown-41mm-undrilled-donut-burly-wood-beads-cj019--3811-p.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wooden ring http://www.jewelleryshed.co.uk/ekmps/shops/jewelleryshed/images/5-x-brown-41mm-undrilled-donut-burly-wood-beads-cj019--3811-p.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aiming to have something similar to the picture but ease of creating will be taken over precision. All I can picture is a combination of lamination and a router using a template but I don't know for sure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I make a wooden wheel, doughnut or &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solid_torus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;torus&lt;/a&gt;(I was trying to find a proper term to sound smart!). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-06-26T17:51:09.577" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T17:51:09.577" Title="How can I create a wooden torus/doughnut?" Tags="|technique|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1769" CreationDate="2015-06-15T02:32:00.943" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd probably start with a cylinder and round over the edges. From there you can trace a template for the interior and use a jigsaw to cut it. Then you can found over the inside corners and tidy it up with files/rasps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Constantly checking the fit and feel might help mitigate the lack of precision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="394" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T02:32:00.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1769" CreationDate="2015-06-15T03:36:14.917" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done something similar, at about a 3&quot; diameter. Since I had to produce a fair number of them I made two jigs for the task:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;one to guide a router and pattern bit around the inner surface (after i'd drilled away most of the waste) and hold the block steady while I switched to a roundover bit to finish the inside profile (flipping the workpiece to round over both sides)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;another with a raised boss that the resulting hole fit over (after I'd sawed away most of the outside waste) to guide the pattern bit around the outside edge and to hold the resulting ring while I used the roundover bit again to finish the outside of the ring, from both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case the shape was an oval. For a circle, the second jig may require a wedge or other clamp -- or a temporary hot-glue joint, or a high friction rubber surface -- to keep the ring from spinning while you work on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bit of sanding to fair the curves and prep the surface, , finish, and you're done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there are many other solutions; this just happened to be the one that suited my needs and my available tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T03:36:14.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1772" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1775" CreationDate="2015-06-15T06:46:02.150" Score="9" ViewCount="13318" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard that the old-school way of creating a flat surface is to use a hand plane, and that if you use the right tools, you may not even have to sand because the surface is so smooth. Can I use a flat hand plane to smooth an flatten a curved surface? Is there a tool specifically for it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The surface in mind is a U shaped stool top, so there is only a single curve, though I have to handle both the inside and the outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I can just sand it, and that's what I plan to do if I don't have an alternative. Is this the easiest/classical way of handling such a surface?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="738" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-06-15T12:28:24.510" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T14:33:52.270" Title="What is the old-school way of smoothing a curved surface?" Tags="|hand-tools|hand-planing|traditional-techniques|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1772" CreationDate="2015-06-15T09:27:30.780" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking you would use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spokeshave&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;spokeshave&lt;/a&gt; which is like a plane with no sole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can then refine that edge with a card scraper to make it smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="739" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T09:27:30.780" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1772" CreationDate="2015-06-15T10:23:10.973" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.se/search?q=compass%20plane&amp;amp;tbm=isch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;compass plane&lt;/a&gt;, a plane with bent or bendable sole.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Unfortunately I couldn't find an image with a proper license (sic)&#xA;The radius on a compass plane is probably too big for a stool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also the &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1040/what-are-spokeshaves-and-what-is-their-intended-use&quot;&gt;spokeshave&lt;/a&gt; with much shorter sole.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It can be concave or flat or convex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QZLxl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Spokeshave&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A third solution is to mount the stool top on something &lt;a href=&quot;https://merciful80kna.wordpress.com/tag/compass-plane-wiki/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;that lets it rotate&lt;/a&gt; and then plane with an ordinary plane lain at side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fine touch you can do with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Card_scraper&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;card scraper&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EHesR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Card scraper for convex and concave surfaces&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T19:00:00.180" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1772" CreationDate="2015-06-15T10:56:48.710" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a tangential point to your main question but has a bearing on my suggested solution:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have heard that the old-school way of creating a flat surface is to use a hand plane, and that if you use the right tools, you may not even have to sand because the surface is so smooth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While that can be true it does tend to get overstated by some planing enthusiasts. It was actually quite common in the past for even the surface left by a &quot;smoother&quot;, or smoothing plane, to be further refined. Be it by scraping and/or with some abrasives (even before the advent of sandpaper).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can I use a flat hand plane to smooth an flatten a curved surface?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  The surface in mind is a U shaped stool top, so there is only a single curve&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm presuming this is dished, i.e. has a concave surface. Generally speaking a regular flat-soled plane can only be used on convex surfaces, not on concavities because the flat bottom will 'bridge' from toe to heel and prevent the cutting edge from contacting the wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of other edged tools that can be use for concave surfaces. In terms of smoothing the surface specifically (rather than creating it in the first place) the main one is the &lt;em&gt;compass plane&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The all-metal version had a flexible steel sole whose curvature could be adjusted to match the surface you were working on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hY2uc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Record compass plane&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wooden versions are also an option and these can have soles that curve in one or both directions, the latter allowing work on compound curves (a surface dished both front-to-back as well as side-to-side).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compass planes are specialised pieces of kit and can be quite expensive, but are of course purpose-made for the job and do it well and efficiently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a simpler option, one much better suited if only a small amount of smoothing is needed and that is the curved card scraper. Card scrapers are widely sold in sets of three shapes, and this may be the ideal way to buy them as all three shapes will prove useful. For use on a hollow seat the best choice is the one that looks a little like a stylised comma:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FUF7D.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Card scrapers&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All card scrapers can be used in either a pulling or pushing motion depending on user preference and the demands of the shape being worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After scraping you may end up with a surface you deem finish-ready, but this isn't always possible (due to vagaries in the wood as well as how sharp the scraper is) so don't feel any embarrassment if you need to do final smoothing using sandpaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2015-06-16T09:01:34.930" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T09:01:34.930" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1767" CreationDate="2015-06-15T11:07:55.183" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can I treat this like regular wood and just sand it back down before applying another coat of the water-based polyurethane&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The finish swelled the wood fibres in the particleboard/chipboard. So although it's not raising &lt;em&gt;the grain&lt;/em&gt; as in the case of solid wood (or the surface of plywood) it is the same thing effectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't sand too heavily. Just as when sanding raised grain on wood or ply the idea it just to smooth off the raised fibres, not to sand the surface off. So use fine paper (150-240 grit) and sand minimally, with light pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also, I'm thinking of priming and possibly painting the rest of this cabinet; do I have to worry about raising the &quot;grain&quot; there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only if using waterbased primer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even at that, some products raise grain much less than others. This is partly dependent on water content (higher solids content means less water) but also on other aspects of formulation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T11:07:55.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1772" CreationDate="2015-06-15T12:51:55.500" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Was also going to suggest mini block planes as well for the outside of you &quot;U&quot;. Their size lends to detail and you can easily shape the blades to be soothing blades which prevent the edges from digging in (More used for flat surfaces but if you already own these tools it could work.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While looking at pictures I also found references to shaping planes which can be used on both the inside and outside of your &quot;U&quot;. In the following picture the tools are upside down so you can see the cutting side/face. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.leevalley.com/en/images/item/woodworking/planes/60k2201s2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shaping Planes&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=55065&amp;amp;cat=1,41182&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Leevalley Tools&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Side note&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other answers do a good job of mentioning tools for working curved surfaces. I would like to make a small addition since you were talking about old-school methods. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize that you are looking to refine in this particular case but uf your stock is large and you want to remove larger portions quickly then you could use a draw knife ( also known as a pull knife ) before you get to the smoothing tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/8d/ZiehmesserTop.jpeg/350px-ZiehmesserTop.jpeg&quot; alt=&quot;Pull Knife&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drawknife&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:50.263" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T14:30:54.143" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1769" CreationDate="2015-06-15T13:17:48.543" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Surprise, surprise, my recommendation is of course the lathe.  Lathes are designed to make stuff round.  if you have the right chucking equipment (and some of it you can make on the lathe!) you can make on pretty easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several ways to do it but each will involve a couple stages, turn the outside, turn the center, reverse it and clean up the whole thing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course if you don't have a lathe or a little experience with one, it becomes much more expensive and difficult, but making round things in general is best done on a lathe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many ways to do it, but this is how I've tried it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Took a round piece and mounted it between the drive center and the tail stock.  shaped the outside of the torus (in my case it was a bracelet) and then started cutting toward the inside.  when you start getting close to cutting through, you can sand and even wax the parts that are done.  then finish parting the ring from the center.  This is similar to captive rings on goblet stems are made, but a bit easier (can always look for youtube videos on that).  If you have a flat jaws chuck you can remount the piece and sand the inside ring, if not you can finish it by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-06-15T13:37:19.617" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T13:37:19.617" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1769" CreationDate="2015-06-15T13:35:47.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't done it myself, but for ease, I would use a wood lathe, starting out with a lot of the same gear to make a bowl. Here's a standard tutorial on making a bowl on a wood lathe: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wikihow.com/Turn-a-Crotch-Bowl&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wikihow.com/Turn-a-Crotch-Bowl&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of forming out a bowl shape, you could begin to form a cylinder, and then easily carve out the rounded shape of a torus at the end of the cylinder as the piece is spinning. As you are finishing, you can cut off the torus from the end of the cylinder. There would be a part of it with a slightly flat edge at the end, where the torus is cut off from the cylinder, but you could probably use some sanding tools to make it unnoticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T13:35:47.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1780" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-15T16:04:05.417" Score="9" ViewCount="2445" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm very handy in general, but I'm new to wood working. We're installing butcher block countertop. we've pre-ordered sections that are 8' x 25&quot; x 1.5&quot; thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done tons of research, and I'm basically all ready to start. Overall I'm feeling confident, but I just have one concern:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On one section i'd like to widen it to 45&quot;. Is it best to join this section together with a few pocket hole screws using my Kreg jig (plus glue)? Or would it be better to use miter bolts, which is the same thing I'll be using to join together my corner cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other advise would also be great. Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="746" LastEditorUserId="38" LastEditDate="2015-06-15T16:29:01.797" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T09:22:40.617" Title="What's the best way to widen a butcherblock countertop?" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1772" CreationDate="2015-06-15T16:11:56.030" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tool for this is called a scorp. There are small ones for carving out wooden spoons, and large ones for chair seats. They are like a drawknife, but curved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://barrtools.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&amp;amp;Store_Code=BT&amp;amp;Product_Code=MDS6&amp;amp;Category_Code=CBT&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's an example:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ejs7g.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, unless you are making a lot of these, and willing to invest a fair amount of effort, it might not be worth it to buy a scorp. A curved hand scraper (just a 3 x 8 or so sheet of steel with a curved, honed edge) will get the job done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="747" LastEditorUserId="38" LastEditDate="2015-06-15T16:30:13.137" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T16:30:13.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1780" CreationDate="2015-06-15T17:21:54.483" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it best to join this section together with a few pocket hole screws using my Kreg jig (plus glue)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no best here, but there is definitely a &lt;em&gt;good enough&lt;/em&gt; and that is using glue only. Just glued together the joint should be as strong as any joint in the existing material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the following assumptions: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the surfaces are prepared properly — flat, very smooth (also see Note bottom);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sufficient glue is applied — there must be squeeze-out and ideally it should be over the entire span of the joint;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;firm clamp pressure is used — high clamping pressure is vital for a proper glue joint to form using conventional woodworking adhesives.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; if the material has good square edges it might be tempting to glue them directly but if there is finish on them it must be removed beforehand. Even if the edges are unfinished you shouldn't attempt to glue them as-is. For a good glue joint to form mating surfaces should be freshly worked (ideally less than two hours prior to the glue-up for maximum joint strength). So at minimum scrape or finely sand them, although a pass with a finely-set plane would be ideal here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2015-06-16T09:22:40.617" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T09:22:40.617" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1772" CreationDate="2015-06-15T20:41:57.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I highly recommend a Stanley 113 - compass plane.  The base of the plane is adjustable allowing for you to plane different angles.  Remember if you are doing something like a rocker you can use a jack plane on the convexed portion and the compass plane on the concaved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="686" LastEditorUserId="686" LastEditDate="2015-06-16T16:28:16.253" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T16:28:16.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="67" CreationDate="2015-06-15T20:49:41.093" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with the all the suggestions to use oil.  I glued a piece of carpet on  a board next to my bench.  Whenever I am finished with a tool - I squirt oil on the carpet and rub the tool against it.  This is easy and saves oil.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you already have rust - I have found that the &quot;SandFlex Flexible Abrasive Block, Fine Grit&quot; - is excellent at cleaning up tools.  Also, &quot;Evapo-Rust&quot; is unbelievable effective, albeit expensive way to clean up rust.  It is safe on tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For longer term storage you can buy &quot;Uniwrap rust-inhibiting paper&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general the best way to reduce rust is to reduce moisture.  I highly recommend running a dehumidifier in your shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="686" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T20:49:41.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1785" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-15T20:55:43.057" Score="10" ViewCount="786" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a tongue and groove plane (stanley 48).  I would like to use this plane to strength glue joints for the side of a toolbox.  When assembled the tongued board and the grooved board are not flush.  Are there adjustments that can be made to create a flat surface?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cwxNL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example of misalignment&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Example of alignment issue. Picture is from &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1485/whats-the-easiest-way-to-line-up-a-tongue-and-groove&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;loosely&lt;/em&gt; related question&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="686" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T13:08:50.880" Title="Getting flat surfaces with a tongue and groove plane" Tags="|plane|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1077" CreationDate="2015-06-15T21:00:49.803" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Finewoodworking May 27, 2015, edition has an article on making dowel.  I would suggest a dowel plate which seems easier and safer than using a router.  Rather than cutting the stock for the plate with a saw, I would split it with a clever, froe or chisel to ensure that the grain is running straight through the dowel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="686" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T21:00:49.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1704" CreationDate="2015-06-15T21:14:53.667" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that its an advantage to use multiple light passes instead of one or two thicker coats.Ben Blackmar in the February 5, 2014 edition of Fine Woodworking says that he uses two coats of wipe on to start, multiple coats applied with a brush and a final top coat wiped on.  Make sure you use very fine sandpaper between coats to level the surface and that coats are completely dry before you apply the next one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="686" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T21:14:53.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1785" CreationDate="2015-06-15T22:28:43.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure exactly what you mean but I'll do my best.&#xA;If the tongue is a tad too large to fit in the groove, you could try using a block of scrap wood and some sandpaper to sand it down carefully.&#xA;If the tongue is a tad too small for the groove, I'm not really sure of anything you could do to fix that...&#xA;If the joint fits fine but the board sticks out a bit parallel to the groove, you could run it through your wide belt sander a couple of times to make the board a bit thinner.&#xA;If the joint fits fine but the board sticks out perpendicular to the groove, just trim off the end on a table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="751" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T22:28:43.890" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1785" CreationDate="2015-06-16T09:46:49.907" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apologies in advance that this doesn't directly answer your question, however it is a solution to your current problem and will allow you to progress with your project, and provides a good opportunity to post useful info about joint strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I would like to use this plane to strength glue joints for the side of a toolbox.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not necessary for strength*. Butt-jointed long-grain edges already create a bond stronger than the surrounding wood (assuming they are well formed and glued together properly, with sufficient adhesive and clamp pressure). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tests have confirmed repeatedly that if you glue boards together, wait for the glue to fully cure and then break them apart the glue joint holds and it is the wood itself that breaks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NTeKz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Joint breaks&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/27124/how-to-glue-up-joints-tips-on-gluing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fine Woodworking excerpt&lt;/a&gt;.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you could solve your current issue by not using the Stanley no. 48 and just using a regular plane to joint your edges flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Despite how counter-intuitive this seems, when joining boards along the grain, tongues and grooves, biscuits or splines (floating or glued) do not contribute significantly to joint strength, they act primarily as &lt;em&gt;alignment aids&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even pocket screws spaced along a long-grain joint do not add needed strength, they would primarily function as clamping devices in reality. The screws can in fact be removed after the glue has cured if desired, without resulting in a weak joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T09:46:49.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1649" CreationDate="2015-06-17T13:09:18.397" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used a heat gun and a steel brush (lightly applied) to get varnish of old furniture in the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T13:09:18.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1649" CreationDate="2015-06-17T15:11:21.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending how much you have might be worth it to get a cheap hand planer to remove the finish before running it through your planner.  I would check really carefully to make sure there isn't any metal in the boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="686" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T15:11:21.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1792" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-17T23:09:33.643" Score="8" ViewCount="1997" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a way to build this table. I'm having trouble figuring out how I would achieve this type of curve as seen in this picture with wood. Any suggestions, guides, methods would be greatly appreshiated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aUz7f.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="734" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-06-18T02:37:06.563" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T16:21:52.767" Title="How would I go about achieving a curve in wood?" Tags="|technique|furniture|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1793" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-18T00:36:02.040" Score="10" ViewCount="62785" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have wood that is about 1 3/4&quot; thick, but I need to cut a circle out of it. I only have a jigsaw and a drill to work with (I only do light woodworking). Is there anyway to do this. Unfortunately, I don't have a band saw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: The circle is roughly 26 cm in diameter. It has to be a perfect cut because I am actually attaching a motor to the center and it is going to be spinning fast (so I need it to be balanced), so I am not sure if a coping saw would work here. I have a compass-like stick that came with the jigsaw to cut perfect circles, which is what I was planning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="764" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-07-18T15:25:03.083" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T15:25:03.083" Title="How do I cut thick wood with a jigsaw?" Tags="|power-tools|cutting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1793" CreationDate="2015-06-18T00:54:50.820" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like with a lot of things you can do this but there are some variables here. Namely we don't know how big your circle is and where it is in reference to the rest of the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Cutting Large Stock&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your wood is sufficient for most standard jigsaw blades, that come stock with tools that I see, but they do come larger. Here is a picture of a Bosch 10&amp;quot; blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XXDGNm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;blades of all kinds&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can even see a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.protoolreviews.com/tools/power/corded/saws/bosch-js572eb-jig-saws/7809/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tool review&lt;/a&gt; using the blade on 5&amp;quot; stock. I don't know the dimensions of your circle but if the diameter was wide I'm certain you could cut with larger blades if you managed to acquire one. I would &lt;strong&gt;suggest getting a smaller blade&lt;/strong&gt; than 10&amp;quot; for your case since you don't need that extra blade flying under the wood you are cutting (Would not make for a clean cut if the tool is running at a high RPM). The 10&amp;quot; is shown here to illustrate your options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Cutting &lt;em&gt;Your&lt;/em&gt; Stock&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should aim to get a blade at roughly an inch longer than what you are cutting. So, if you can find a minimum 3 inch blade, that is designed to cut wood, that should cover it just fine. You want to be sure the sawdust clears the path to stop the blade from overheating and possibly snapping. The blade material, carbide, hss etc. might come into play but I don't have specific advice for that unfortunately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A coping saw would be a good fit here as well if the circle was not to far inside the piece. You could drill a hole and assemble the coping blade into the hole so you don't have to have a cut line outside the circle. Coping saw are rather cheap. Never did use one on this thick of wood and they are generally used for more delicate cuts (Which is why the blades are so thin).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you are using a compass attachment I don't see any potential issue as long as the blade is not too wide to prevent nice arc movement. Go slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit for the coping saw&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a general sense it is still a tool to &lt;em&gt;consider&lt;/em&gt;. In your particular case that a rather large hole and a coping saw would not work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T15:57:10.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1792" CreationDate="2015-06-18T02:29:48.477" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Steaming and laminations.  You make a jig for the shape and then glue layer after layer down. Rockler has an article on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/how-to/bending-wood-part-ii-bent-lamination/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bent lamination&lt;/a&gt;, including a picture of someone in action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some might not need to steam if the laminations are thin enough to bend to the desired shape, but steaming them, bending them and then after they cool glue them up, is how many awesome wooden curves are made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fACte.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bent lamination clamped in a bending form&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-06-18T04:22:03.253" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T04:22:03.253" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1793" CreationDate="2015-06-18T05:30:48.707" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, most jigsaw blades can easily cut 1 3/4&quot;. A regular 4&quot; blade will usually have a cutting capacity of 3&quot;, which is more than enough. Naturally you should go slow, letting the saw do the work instead of pushing it hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, since you are planning on using the wooden circle as a wheel powered by a motor, you can actually get away with an imperfect cut. After finishing the rough circle, hook it to the motor and let it spin. With a chisel (or even sandpaper) you can shave of the parts that are sticking out. This is the same as what a lathe does, but you don't need anything more than what you already have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Matthias at &lt;a href=&quot;http://woodgears.ca/&quot;&gt;woodgears.ca&lt;/a&gt; uses this technique for his &lt;a href=&quot;http://woodgears.ca/bandsaw/wheels.html&quot;&gt;bandsaw wheels&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T05:30:48.707" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1797" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-18T06:16:03.367" Score="9" ViewCount="305" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been using a binding-post interchangeable-tip pen (as seen in the third image here &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.razertip.com/pyrography-pens.htm&quot;&gt;https://www.razertip.com/pyrography-pens.htm&lt;/a&gt;)  from The Razertip® Wood Burning Systems for over 10 years now with minimal complaints.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a discussion with a fellow pyrographer, it came up that their system of choice was a simple soldering iron (never tinned or used for anything other than wood however), and unlike so much of the literature and instructions out there, they claimed with this type of pen, they NEVER have to touch hot pen to wood.  Thus shading in their work is exceptional.  I have enjoyed making my own tips, but the relatively small gauge wire (even the thick gauges feel like they cool in the air so rapidly they can't burn from a distance).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am considering out a iron-pen system, like the one shown here (specifically because it has a few interchangeable tips, and I feel this would still be a plus over a soldering iron dedicated for wood burning)  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=31041&amp;amp;cat=1,41115&quot;&gt;http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=31041&amp;amp;cat=1,41115&lt;/a&gt; but I am not sure whether it would make shading of heavily grained hard woods any easier...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long story short, I would like to ask for some advice or brief stories of your experience regarding a few observations and determining whether different equipment would help improve this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the thin wires of the razertip system, the pen requires contact with the hardwood with smooth deliberate motion (technique and reading of the wood is vital here and requires time, patience, concentration, and focus as if the pen isn't lifted in time the grain can ignite (with a flash) leaving a blob.)  This is common and there is lots of material out there about techniques and better woods to use to avoid this, but I would like to focus on whether an iron-style pen which is not in contact with the wood will make the wood less sensitive to this problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have been told, iron style pens (without touching the wood) generate faster, more even burns to a larger surface area compared to pens with thin wires.  Is this true, or have our discussions not given enough credit to the wood we are using?  Based on photographs of my friends work, I know for sure we aren't likely using comparable woods as there is never a discernible grain on their work.  I tend to burn on a lot of pine, poplar, maple, and red oak.  The grain and changing density/wetness on red oak can be a real pain!, but all the more satisfying with a well done end product.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No affiliations to Razertip, Lee Valley, or Veritas.  Just trying to provide as much relevant information as possible to get the best advice from the pros and gurus out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="729" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T02:33:19.993" Title="Pyrography criteria to justify changing tools with different woods?" Tags="|wood-selection|tool-selection|pyrography|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1792" CreationDate="2015-06-18T14:05:09.130" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/1795/93&quot;&gt;Bowlturner&lt;/a&gt;'s answer is a very standard way to make curved wood. However, to bend wood &lt;strong&gt;wide&lt;/strong&gt; enough to make the desktop and legs for this would take a massive steam box and bending jig. Just image your entire desk, standing on its back edge, in that bending fixture he showed!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest that the top and legs are made flat, then there is a curved corner piece running from the front to back of the desk cut to the profile of the bend needed (see hand-drawn arc inside the hand-drawn red circle!):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PNrVA.png&quot; alt=&quot;Hand drawn red circle!&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is then used to connect the top to the leg. This assembly would then be covered a thin lamination piece of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Melamine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;melamine&lt;/a&gt; (for a pre-finished look), or a wood lamination layer that would be thin enough to make the bend without steaming that you would use the techniques recommended for your &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1764/what-is-the-best-way-to-get-a-high-gloss-glass-like-white-finish&quot;&gt;previous question&lt;/a&gt; to achieve the desired finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T15:41:46.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1799" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-18T17:06:51.973" Score="5" ViewCount="2558" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is quarter round molding a type of shoe molding, or are they different things?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Ykok.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Quarter round molding&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;em&gt;Quarter round molding&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="504" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T19:55:03.007" Title="Is quarter round a type of shoe molding?" Tags="|trim|molding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1799" CreationDate="2015-06-18T17:20:53.723" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;They're used almost interchangeably today, but no there is a slight difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shoe molding is wider/taller (depending on orientation) in one direction than the other and the curve isn't a perfect arc, rather than being a perfect 1/4 of a circle as in quarter round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;via &lt;a href=&quot;http://thecraftsmanblog.com/quarter-round-vs-shoe-molding/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://thecraftsmanblog.com/quarter-round-vs-shoe-molding/&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ls5rL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;comparison&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T17:20:53.723" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1799" CreationDate="2015-06-18T19:00:05.843" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I feel like this is one of those answers where more than one answer can be right. It boils down to experience and what you were taught. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand shoe molding as the molding family that is partnered with a baseboard. In the same way that crown molding describes the family of molding used to finish top edges. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When used on baseboard the quarter round is being used as shoe molding. It is still quarter round. I haven't found a reliable source worth linking too but seen mentioning that shoe molding is typically taller than wider for aesthetics reasons which gives credence to &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/1800/128&quot;&gt;TX Turner's answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T19:55:03.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1802" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1803" CreationDate="2015-06-18T19:15:19.860" Score="16" ViewCount="3142" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to cut some lap joints on a table saw using my stacked dado set. But the depth of the cut is inconsistent from pass to pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a picture of what I'm getting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wKyWR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lap joint inconsistencies&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like I'm getting somewhere between 1/32&quot; to 1/16&quot; variation on each pass; it's difficult to tell for sure because the depth of the cut is potentially variable on each pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be causing this inconsistency?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some things I've considered:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Perhaps the saw blade is actually oscillating up and down as it makes the cuts. Is this a thing that happens in table saws sometimes? If so, what do I do to fix it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe the wood is actually riding up over the blade? That doesn't make a lot of sense to me, as that is more like what happens in a climbing cut. I tried several things to get a more consistent joint, including making sure the pressure was as even as I could get it on each pass, and it helped a little but still had a lot of variation between passes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe the board itself has inconsistencies in height, causing it to engage the cut at different angles? That doesn't make a lot of sense either, because the cuts seem fairly consistent through a single cut. They only seem to vary between cuts. But I did try planing the board before cutting the joint to see if that helped with consistency. It didn't seem to make any difference.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe my expectations are off and this is just what I should expect to get out of a stacked dado set?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the day, I have several questions that are all intertwined:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This seems to be a lot more variation than I can use as-is in a lap joint. If I were to glue it up like this, my gut tells me I'd be compromising the strength of the joint. Is this true?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is causing this problem?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I fix it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LeeG suggested that accumulating sawdust might be the problem. I made several changes to my setup, and it seems to have done the trick. I replaced the fence I'd been using with a much straighter board, and I cut a rabbet at its base for dust relief. I made sure to keep the surface of the table saw as free from sawdust as I could between each pass. The changes seem to have worked. The cuts are much more consistent between passes now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2015-06-20T05:02:42.423" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T15:14:00.817" Title="What am I doing wrong when making lap joints with my stacked dado set?" Tags="|joinery|table-saw|dado|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1802" CreationDate="2015-06-18T19:39:03.170" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The chippers in the stack may vary in height.  You can test for that by making a single pass and see if it is smooth.  If the chippers are ok, then it is likely technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you are holding the work piece down tightly against the table on each pass and make sure there is no sawdust accumulating under it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have some uneven joints, you can clean them up by sliding the work piece side to side over the blade.  This will help remove the high spots.  You can also clean it up with a hand plane.  You can eliminate the entire problem by using a tenoning jig and making the cuts vertical.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T19:39:03.170" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1802" CreationDate="2015-06-18T19:55:31.750" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a good chance it is technique.  You need to keep the piece flat near the saw blades.  A little rocking action and each pass will be different.  having the board flat from the beginning helps, they can easily have a warp which can affect the depth of cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A slight bow or cup can make a difference too.  If there is cupping flat on one side brings the other side up and also allows for rocking.  So keeping the board flat to the table nearest the blade is good and as LeeG said, running it back and forth afterward can even out the cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T19:55:31.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1802" CreationDate="2015-06-18T20:32:42.977" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't help with the diagnosis I'm afraid, I have no experience with dado stacks and they're actually not permitted in Europe so that's not going to change any time soon! But your question #1 is relevant to an important issue in woodworking about joint surfaces and proper bond formation, and the point I build towards provides a solution that allows you to continue in the absence of a diagnosis or workable fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This seems to be a lot more variation than I can use as-is in a lap joint. If I were to glue it up like this, my gut tells me I'd be compromising the strength of the joint. Is this true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking you're right to be hesitant. In wood, the ideal glueing surface in a joint of this nature is both very flat and very smooth. The goal being to bring these two flat surfaces into intimate contact, with a very thin and uniform layer of glue between them; hence why smooth is good. And literally the thinner the glue line the stronger the joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even slight texture from sawing is enough to interfere with this process. However I must stress that this is in relation to the &lt;em&gt;strongest possible glue joint&lt;/em&gt;, and while this is something to aim for it is often not actually needed. Sometimes strong enough is good enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a piece of furniture, the overall structure and the other fixed joints function together to support weaker joints within the piece. In fact in some furniture one or more joints could be left unglued, and the structure of the piece — locked together by the rest of the glued joints — will not allow those joints to come apart under normal circumstances (although there will be more movement than there would be otherwise).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now taking into consideration that you say initially that there can be as much as 1/16&quot; variation you might want to err on the side of caution and choose a gap-filling adhesive. The simplest recommendation is epoxy. Epoxies can be expensive, but in my experience even the cheapest type that you might find in a dollar store (UK, pound shop) can work perfectly well, as long as the short working time of approximately 2-3 minutes is acceptable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to their ability to form strong bonds where there are significant gaps, another advantage of epoxies is that they &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; require firm clamp pressure (which conventional wood glues do, to create that very thin glue line). So for a lap joint like this a single spring clamp to hold the pieces together where they overlap would be sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T20:32:42.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1806" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-19T01:15:42.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This tag may be used on questions specifically about wood itself (the material), including but not limited to the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hardwoods&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;softwoods&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;engineered woods such as plywood and MDF&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;burls&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;green, air-dried, or kiln-dried wood&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please do &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; use this tag for questions about how to mill, dry, cut, or process wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a subtle but important distinction. The purpose of this distinction is to allow someone to search for all questions tagged &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/wood&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;wood&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;wood&lt;/a&gt; and find useful information about the different types of wood that can be used in woodworking projects, while preventing the tag's meaning from being diluted to the point of being worthless (since all of the questions on this site are presumably about &lt;em&gt;wood&lt;/em&gt;working).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Resources&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wood-database.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; includes an extensive range of basic information about many common species of wood including appearance, strength, and moisture resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodbin.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Woodbin.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; provides large range of of information on wood species including on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodbin.com/ref/wood-strength-table/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;structural strength&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T18:24:39.343" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T18:24:39.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1807" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-19T01:15:42.653" Score="0" Body="Specifically for questions about wood, the &quot;raw&quot; material itself (not to be used for questions about processing wood)." OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-06-19T01:15:42.653" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T01:15:42.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="67" CreationDate="2015-06-19T02:09:36.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B004ERKCIA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ballistol&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Originally designed for protecting and storing firearms, it works really good for protecting metal tools and handles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="768" LastEditorUserId="768" LastEditDate="2015-06-19T13:44:06.350" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T13:44:06.350" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1810" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1815" CreationDate="2015-06-19T16:16:10.613" Score="8" ViewCount="3986" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there such a thing as a truly clear oil based polyurethane? I know they yellow over time, but don't they also apply amber?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="720" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-06-25T14:44:36.043" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T14:44:36.043" Title="Does clear oil based polyurethane exist?" Tags="|finishing|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1811" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1816" CreationDate="2015-06-19T16:21:46.070" Score="3" ViewCount="382" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to protect the wood with stain, but I do not want it to become a different color.  Is it possible to find a stain that is the same color as the wood?  If I were to find such a stain, would the wood still become a different color slightly because of all of the existing shades?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="720" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T17:24:02.340" Title="Is there such a thing as the same stain as wood color?" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1792" CreationDate="2015-06-19T16:21:52.767" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did some curves as part of a kitchen island.  I have a series of pictures of the process here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://gallery3.asap.armadillo.nu/index.php/Bending-Wood&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://gallery3.asap.armadillo.nu/index.php/Bending-Wood&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The technique I use was a laminate process that did not involve steaming.  I just cut the wood down to about 1/8 of an inch in thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As FreeMan said the width of this piece would mean doing it in several sections.  My widest curve was about 8 1/2 inches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The glue you use is important, I normally use Titebond II, but even with just a small test piece it would not hold its shape after about 48 hours.  I ended up using some two part formaldehyde glue that listed the application on the can. It takes a lot of force in the clamps to form the curve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't tell from the picture the radius of the inside curve, but without steaming the radius that you can bend 1/8 laminates into is limited (about 7 inches in radiata pine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="770" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T16:21:52.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1811" CreationDate="2015-06-19T17:07:12.007" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need a 'stain' to protect wood.  There are however plenty of clear finishes available, that cause minimal color changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood color only exists in cartoons.  Every single species has different colored wood and some species have vast differences across the species.  That is part of the reason for stains with names like 'red oak', golden oak, cherry, walnut, etc.  Each is an attempt to stain one wood to look like another, (or make a whole piece look the same, ie. staining a cherry table cherry to make the color more even.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T17:07:12.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1811" CreationDate="2015-06-19T17:12:51.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For what its worth I think a &quot;natural finish&quot; usually ends up best.  I think this is what you mean by not stain it a different colour.  Natural stains tends to deepen the colour that is already in your wood.  One good choice is natural oil: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/813373/(H)-Watco-Natural-Gal.aspx?gclid=CL2K7LOgnMYCFcGRHwodG_sBvg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/813373/(H)-Watco-Natural-Gal.aspx?gclid=CL2K7LOgnMYCFcGRHwodG_sBvg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its always a good idea to try your finish on a piece of scrap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="686" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T17:12:51.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1810" CreationDate="2015-06-19T17:21:40.493" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are lighter and darker oil-based polys (and other varnishes, not all oil-based varnishes contain polyurethane) but essentially all are various shades of yellow. This is inherent to the product &lt;em&gt;because&lt;/em&gt; they're oil-based, that base oil is almost invariably slightly yellow. But also refer to the Note below. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Broadly speaking the clear finishes — sometimes referred to as &quot;water clear&quot; or &quot;water white&quot; — are either waterbase varnishes (&lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; different to oil-based) or a type of solvent finish (i.e. lacquer). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; quite a bit of the colouring that oil-based varnishes provide to wood is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; due to them being yellowish. Put simply the effect is similar to what happens when you dampen wood with mineral spirits, which immediately gives a &quot;deeper&quot; or &quot;richer&quot; tone &lt;em&gt;despite mineral spirits being completely clear&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T17:21:40.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1811" CreationDate="2015-06-19T17:24:02.340" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're misunderstanding what a stain is. In the traditional sense of the word (slightly diluted by modern commercial usage) a stain's job is to colour wood, and that is its sole function. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Protection is provided by something else, i.e. your final finish, be it shellac, varnish or lacquer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T17:24:02.340" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1817" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-19T18:04:03.957" Score="8" ViewCount="181" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am about to do a little touching up of a stained oak floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LPwXQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;stained-oak&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am concerned that sanding the floor with a machine would be infeasible because it means that the stain would be gone from some parts more than others, and then it will be necessary to do a heavy sanding, staining from scratch, and apply multiple polyurethane coats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your experience, is it possible to do local touching up of such a floor, perhaps by a tedious but more gentle hand sanding? Or is it just a job that has to be done for the entire area?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="722" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T17:19:17.700" Title="How challenging is it to sand a stained oak floor?" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1817" CreationDate="2015-06-19T18:36:24.213" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends.  If it's fairly small, doing it by hand can save time and money and effort.  But how small?  On top of that it's location is also important.  Is it the size of a small throw rug and in the middle of a high traffic area?  then it might be a lot harder to get it to match and not stand out like a sore thumb, especially if you haven't done something like that before.  Is it under a window where there is some water damage and can be hidden by a piece of furniture? then it might be worth the trouble of hand sanding and refinishing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My dad has completely done several wood floors.  Renting a big sander for the floor and doing the whole floor at once (according to my dad) really doesn't take that long and leaves you with the best finish.  Last one was my Sister and brother-in-laws dining room floor.  It's about 15' x 13' and they had it all sanded in less than a day.  So with a little help and planning, the entire floor could be sanded down and refinished in a weekend.  (depending on size of floor)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T18:36:24.213" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="67" CreationDate="2015-06-19T19:43:48.843" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get the tools rust free by polishing with steel wool or scotch brite, wipe clean with oily rag-- leaving a very fine oily film, then apply a soft wax-- I have had good success with Johnson paste wax.  If you can't ensure a low moisture environment, the wax film will do as anything else to prevent reformation of rust but leave the tool useable.   If the storage is for years and the tool will not be used, try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cosmolinedirect.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cosmoline&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="772" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-10-08T01:23:59.013" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T01:23:59.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1802" CreationDate="2015-06-19T23:00:32.917" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;My dado stack gives me the exact same results.  Depending on the manufacturer of your dado stack it is likely due to the design of the dado stack.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Direct quote from the literature that came with my dado stack: &lt;strong&gt;&quot;This dado has been designed with beveled outside blade teeth.  This means that the outside saws will cut the very outer edges slightly deeper than the chippers.  This minimizes tear-out and gives an overall better cut.&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;  This also means if I make multiple passes to create a large rabbet then I will have inconsistent depth cuts across the rabbet or tenon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here a the link to the details on my dado stack: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oshlun.com/stack_dado_set_professional.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.oshlun.com/stack_dado_set_professional.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also performed 3 tests with 3 different blades cutting rabbet on the end of a milled piece of Douglas fir. These tests show how the type of blade affects the smoothness in the rabbet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I first cut the rabbet with my dado stack that was setup with 2 saws and 2 chippers which resulted in a rabbet with similar depth variations to your rabbet.  The results are shown in the following image:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S33DL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lap joint cut with a the Oshlun dado stack linked above with 2 saws and 2 chippers.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second lap cut was made with a Freud 40 tooth alternate top bevel (ATB) general purpose saw blade.  The details of that blade are available here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.freudtools.com/index.php/products/product/P410&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.freudtools.com/index.php/products/product/P410&lt;/a&gt;.  This blade yields results far worse than the dado stack because the bevel is more severe.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SLdeX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lap cut created with a Freud ATB general purpose blade&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last lap cut was created with a LM72M010 Freud 24T flat top grind (FTG) rip blade.  The FTG should result in the smoothest / most consistent lap because of the grind.  I can't post a link to the saw blade because I don't have the required reputation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0qvsO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lap cut was created by a Freud 24 tooth FTG saw blade&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I cut rabbets, tenons, or multi pass dados using my dado stack my results are similar to your results.  It is due to the bevel on my dado stack.  For most applications the slight variation in depth doesn't matter.  The dado stack results in nice clean and flat dados when a cut doesn't require multiple passes.  If I really need a nice smooth tenon, rabbet, or dado then I will use my saw blade with the flat top grind which as you can see from the picture above results in the smoothest rabbet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To specifically answer your questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I don't think this is a problem, and it seems unlikely that you'd compromise any strength because the wood glue will fill over the variations in depth.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I think it is probably how your dado stack was designed, but you'll have to check for yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If it is caused by number 2 then you could buy a dado stack with a flat top grind or use a single blade with an FTG to make your cuts when you need smooth rabbets, dados, or tenons.  Or you could sand / plane out the depth variations.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="773" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T23:00:32.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1817" CreationDate="2015-06-20T09:07:29.087" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would opine that hand-sanding any significant area of floor is just not viable. It's not that it's actually impossible, but the amount of work — both time and effort — needed to do it is just so great that it's infeasible for the average person. It's backbreaking work, both literally and figuratively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can however get down to bare wood by handwork in a reasonable timeframe, by using one of a couple of types of scraper. For a small enough area, anything roughly the size of a table, you could comfortably use a card scraper (see bottom of &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1744/recommendation-for-manual-planing-and-sanding/1748#1748&quot;&gt;previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;). For much more than that you're probably better advised to use a scraper plane or a gullwing scraper, e.g. Stanley no. 80. I should mention that neither of these last two options is inexpensive; card scrapers on the other hand are cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Or is it just a job that has to be done for the entire area?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Broadly speaking, yes. Varnishes are considered un-repairable finishes, while this isn't absolutely true it does mean that touch-ups and additions are hard to impossible to do without them being obvious and in addition to visibility fresh varnish does not bond well to fully-cured varnishes so there is a high potential for peeling at the edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-06-20T09:07:29.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1823" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1825" CreationDate="2015-06-20T14:26:27.547" Score="9" ViewCount="15305" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am just starting to get into finishing. I have a pallet wine rack that will be holding wine bottles (obviously). On top of this I have several other wine related wood projects I am making. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been reserved in using finishes due to all the toxic labels and my my lack of experience but I know &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt;  of my projects will look infinitely better if they were finished.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What finish can I use that will be indoors and likely will be in contact with alcoholic liquids?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-06-21T00:45:24.133" LastActivityDate="2021-07-08T19:33:35.980" Title="Finish that will come in contact with alcohol" Tags="|finishing|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1823" CreationDate="2015-06-21T07:18:44.390" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK simple answer here, varnish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While waterbased varnishes have been tested and &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; shown to provide very good protection from liquids containing alcohol, including red wine, a simpler broad-strokes recommendation would be oil-based varnish. As a class this product, regardless of formulation, will be alcohol-proof once fully cured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Polyurethane is the most common recommendation these days although there are other varnishes on the market. To be honest even the cheaper products will give good performance — in terms of application, and the finish and protection provided — but as with so many things it is worth paying a little extra for one higher up the food chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good follow-on Question to this would be about varnish application, assuming there isn't one already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have been reserved in using finishes due to all the toxic labels &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The warnings on many products can be very scary but used with appropriate levels of caution they can be quite safe to use (q.v. household bleach).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With oil-based varnishes, there is really only one main concern and that is from the solvent vapours and for most people the only precaution that needs to be taken is to provide good ventilation. We should be careful about giving out what might be construed as medical advice in Answers but the data is quite clear that mineral spirits (UK: white spirit) does not pose any significant health risk to the average person who is otherwise in good health and isn't working in an enclosed space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T07:18:44.390" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1826" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1827" CreationDate="2015-06-21T10:27:50.273" Score="11" ViewCount="4455" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to drill a centered, straight hole in a piece without a big drill press and a bunch of clamps and brackets, which seems to be the usual way to do it. &lt;strong&gt;I can manage straight, but centered is eluding me&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm very new to working wood and I'm working on an umbrella swift for my partner to wind yarn on. Part of this involves an axle (in this case, simple dowel) and a couple of square-sided blocks that rotate around it. A bit of friction is actively desirable, so this isn't even going to get a sheave bearing, let alone anything fancier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm having a lot of trouble drilling a straight, centered hole down the square stock, and tend to get a hole that's off center and/or not straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bunnings.com.au/sontax-43mm-collar-drill-guide_p6350091&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;basic drill guide (collar style)&lt;/a&gt; I can get it pretty straight, but setting the work piece perfectly perpendicular is tricky since the edges from where it's cut off the bar stock aren't quite square after hand-sawing. (Maybe I should be using a mitre box?). I'm dealing with this by mounting it in a vise and measuring it carefully before tightening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting the hole centered is just not working though. I drill a small pilot hole with a 2-bit, but it still tends to wander half a mil off center once it bites and starts drilling. I suspect it might be because of the soft pine I'm working with and the fact that I'm drilling down the line of the grain, not across it, but I don't have much choice about that. Widening the hole tends to make the situation worse, as the bit again tends to wander before biting properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I go straight to the 12mm spade bit for the full width cut it tends to wander more, rather than less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also getting a hole that's usually not quite round - slightly distorted on three sides. Is this because I'm drilling with the grain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please forgive my ignorance. I've been hunting around for info, but mostly finding things focused on drilling down the center of round stock like dowel, where you can spin the stock in a drill and use a fixed bit. That's not an option here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(I suspect this is like those programming questions I get on SO, where someone wants to know &quot;how to build a dynamic website with PostgreSQL&quot;, where the answer is &quot;let me write a book&quot; or &quot;where do I start&quot;... but I'm hoping there are just a few simple tricks I'm missing here.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Current results:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JKpAQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hole1&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/na29t.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hole2&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="776" LastEditorUserId="776" LastEditDate="2015-06-22T03:22:01.830" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T05:58:27.860" Title="Drilling a straight, centered hole down square-cross-section bar stock?" Tags="|technique|drilling|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1826" CreationDate="2015-06-21T13:22:42.327" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may want to try drilling the hole with a lip and spur (brad point) type of drill bit. When using it do not start with the smaller pilot hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TAceh.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had a drill press then a Forstner bit may be the ticket for a clean hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FfWIl.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="776" LastEditDate="2015-06-22T09:00:57.993" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T09:00:57.993" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1826" CreationDate="2015-06-21T13:48:06.920" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Guides, clamps drill presses are things that are needed to get the precision you are looking for.  In my opinion your first picture is very good for a hand drilled hole.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simple cheap miter boxes can be found (at least here in the US for under $50).  Might be worth the investment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is the lathe.  Most people don't think of a lathe for drilling but it can be done.  There are chucks that can be put in the tail stock to hold drill bits. then when the wood is spinning the chuck is extended into the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So at least in my opinion, to improve on your first picture, you likely need to invest in some more equipment, or find a place you could rent some time to get it done, like a Maker Space.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T13:48:06.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1826" CreationDate="2015-06-21T15:15:51.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Really good effort, but you've chosen an incredibly difficult task to accomplish with hand tools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest you skip over the bothersome accuracy and go straight to the metal shop. Buy 2 of these: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00IG7PBNA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IG7PBNA&lt;/a&gt; (amazon asin: B00IG7PBNA, described as &quot;Item # 101260, Oilube® Powdered Metal Bronze SAE841 Sleeve Bearings / Bushings - INCH&quot;). You could even hit the plumbing supply aisle and get a &quot;copper coupler without stop&quot; and find a dowel that'll suit the inside diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drill an oversized hole and simply epoxy the sleeves at each end. You'll be able to center them perfectly with a bit of shimming, and you'll have a slop-free half inch for your dowel/axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T15:15:51.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1823" CreationDate="2015-06-21T21:44:02.690" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shellac will dissolved when it is in contact with alcohol.  Oils and stains will not protect the piece from liquids (will stain or get rings).  Polyurethane may be your best bet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="686" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T21:44:02.690" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1810" CreationDate="2015-06-21T21:46:01.710" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use a shellac which will not amber your piece.  Shellac has a lot of the advantages of polyurethane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="686" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-06-21T22:13:16.873" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T22:13:16.873" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="608" CreationDate="2015-06-22T03:55:30.117" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to further Freeman's answer, one downside to the sliding compound mitre saw is the size - whenever you place it, you need a foot or so of clearance at the back so the blade can slide back and forth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't need the extra distance, I would recommend against it. (source: I purchased a sliding compound mitre saw about a year ago. I rarely need the full length of cut, and I &lt;em&gt;still&lt;/em&gt; haven't found any where good in my small shop to keep it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="282" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T03:55:30.117" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1833" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1834" CreationDate="2015-06-22T05:35:31.957" Score="12" ViewCount="3290" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried my hand at crosscutting a beefy 18&quot; log with a relatively low tooth-per-inch bowsaw today. I eventually made it all the way through, but not without cutting V-slices into the wood to give the blade breathing room and prevent it from constantly jamming, especially as I got into the heartwood. I should also mention that it took me &lt;strong&gt;forever&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I missing something here? I wonder if I used the right tool or if I should have been hammering in wedges or something. Should I have just used an axe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Hand-tool related answers only please – not interested in using chainsaws for various reasons.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;More details:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;The log I was cutting was green. The bow saw has no set and was brand new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="778" LastEditorUserId="778" LastEditDate="2015-06-23T00:21:13.673" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T21:27:49.740" Title="Crosscutting 18&quot; diameter logs by hand" Tags="|hand-tools|lumber|making-lumber|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1833" CreationDate="2015-06-22T08:15:02.370" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect the issue here is with the bowsaw blade not having enough &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/927/what-is-the-purpose-of-a-saw-set&quot;&gt;'set'&lt;/a&gt; to the teeth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 'set' of the teeth on a saw blade is how far to either side the teeth are bent out from the main body of the blade, which makes the width of the cut wider and gives the body of the blade some clearance in the saw groove (kerf).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some bowsaw blades have no set (referred to as zero set); from what I understand bowsaw blades of this type are intended to cut &lt;em&gt;green&lt;/em&gt; wood, that is wood that is still very fresh and still quite wet. So if you were cutting a seasoned or even part-dried log the blade would naturally struggle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the teeth have set it may just not be enough for the type of cut you were doing, the depth of cut specifically. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One good general aid to a saw binding in the kerf is to wax the blade. The simplest way to do this is quickly swipe a block or wax or the butt of a candle along the saw. This can make a remarkable amount of difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping the cut open with wedges as you ask about might also be beneficial. It certainly can't hurt to try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T13:18:22.193" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1826" CreationDate="2015-06-22T11:13:02.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With any work you need to define tolerances so we know how big everything is and what degree of error is permissible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a softwood dowel as an axel seems like an unrewarding plan. Why not metal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally woodworkers use &quot;auger&quot; bits to bore holes. You need a stable setup to use them, meaning usually a drill press or a bushing. If all you have is a hand drill, then you will need to make a bushing, which can be a short piece of pipe, the same diameter as the hole. This needs to be mounted 90-degrees in a flange. If you don't want to make the bushing, you can buy them (search drill guide bushing). There are also devices called &quot;doweling jigs&quot; that serve a similar function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T11:13:02.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1833" CreationDate="2015-06-22T14:42:15.817" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep the gap open with wedges.  Next to that, sharp teeth are the most important thing.  I learned that lesson with a chainsaw -- even though the engine was doing the work, a dull chain got me nowhere, and after sharpening, it cut like a hot knife through butter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T14:42:15.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1823" CreationDate="2015-06-22T23:49:09.210" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not want to write a book on this.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;fully cured drying oil finishes, except ones with zinc (and other metallic) driers, are usually suitable to come into contact with food.  The FDA regulates this in the US, these so-called food grade finishes are usually made from tung oil (china wood oil is another name).  You will see FDA approved on the label of the product.  Mineral oil is what you often see.  It is not a drying oil.&#xA;IMO it is a very poor wood finish.  Most water based finishes have molecules that are emulsified and are not water-soluble. When the water evaporates the polymers form - acrylics or products like Hydrocote work okay with this application.  These water-based finishes are kinda like drying oils in disguise.&#xA;&quot;Varnish&quot; is kinda non-specific.  It can be oil, water-based, and even catalyzed.  See the KCMA thing down below. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Shellac is an evaporative finish.  It gets &quot;hard&quot; because the solvents evaporate. When the solvent (alcohol ) contacts a cured finish, it damages the finish.  Only evaporative finishes which depend on other solvents will provide a reasonable alcohol resistance.  Nitrocellulose lqcquer is one.  These things smell to high heaven. You must use them when ambient temps are just right, circa 70-85 degrees F, to get decent clear films.  They are also not available in a lot of locales because of restrictions.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Catalytic finishes (two part lacquer or pre-catalyzed) are top of the line, but not something you can apply without a little experience and a lot of equipment.  They are standard for items like kitchen cabinet door and frames - that come into accidental contact with all kinds of household chemicals.  Or maybe not accidental. Example product: pre-catalyzed waterborne clear from Mohawk.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line - research the KCMA standards for finishes.  Read the four-part finish test to see what KCMA finish certification means:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kcma.org/Homeowners/Performance_Testing_and_Certification_Program#2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.kcma.org/Homeowners/Performance_Testing_and_Certification_Program#2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hmm.  I still got too gabby.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/fcn/fcnDetailNavigation.cfm?rpt=ialisting&amp;amp;id=3235&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/fcn/fcnDetailNavigation.cfm?rpt=ialisting&amp;amp;id=3235&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That link is FDA list of food contact substances (FCS list) which is what food safe deals with in the context here.  Zirconium palmitate is used as a drier in drying oil finishes.  I just chose that entry because it is a drier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Follow the link back to other compounds if you want to know for yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in summary: drying oils from edible plants and seeds are edible either in dried form or as oil.  Pure China wood (tung) oil, linseed oil, walnut oil, and rosemary oil all do air dry but take quite a while.  So for purists, these would be a choice.  The 'boiled' version of linseed oil has driers in it. Actual linseed oil, like Michelangelo had, can be had &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sinopia.com/VS50017-Cold-Pressed-Linseed-Oil-from-Sweden-best-grade_p_11.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sinopia.com/VS50017-Cold-Pressed-Linseed-Oil-from-Sweden-best-grade_p_11.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Milkpaints that you make with harmless iron oxide pigments (like red ocher) are also edible, if a little high in iron and calcium content.  Milkpaint has:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;casein (milk protein, quark is another name)&#xA; lime - Calcium oxide (in water solution becomes hydroxide)&#xA; pigment like red ocher&#xA; Some people add linseed oil&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="650" LastEditorUserId="650" LastEditDate="2015-06-23T18:49:27.397" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T18:49:27.397" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="756" CreationDate="2015-06-23T01:14:36.487" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems nobody bothered to mention French Polish. Sigh.  That is the standard piano finish for quality pianos, period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;French polish is a series of steps that fills and smooths surfaces using shellac.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over a stained and filled (grain filler) prepared surface:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first step uses rottenstone (like pumice) mixed with 1/2 lb or 1 lb cut shellac; rottenstone comes in grades (particle size).  You work through  grades of rottenstone + shellac from coarser to finest.  The final multiple passes are shellac only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason this is not used more often is not the quality of the result, but the cost of paying someone with experience to do it. Mass produced pianos would have to be finished in places where wages a far lower than Europe or The US in order to compete price-wise with other finishing methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've touched up some baby grands and estimate that one square yard of surface is about two hours of work for minor touch up.  I do not know firsthand, but am told a full grand piano can take 160 man hours or more for all finishing steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good part about french polish is that it can be touched up to look completely new, but damage on nitrocellulose lacquer may require complete refinishing.  By damage I mean spills, not where little Tommy takes a hatchet to a piece of furniture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pictures do the best job of conveying the idea:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LqYENoVuySo&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LqYENoVuySo&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="650" LastEditorUserId="650" LastEditDate="2015-06-23T15:22:19.160" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T15:22:19.160" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1712" CreationDate="2015-06-23T02:01:36.153" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=1911&amp;amp;familyName=Brass+Finish+Washers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=1911&amp;amp;familyName=Brass+Finish+Washers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is what you want.  The place I used to get these seems to have gone bye-bye.&#xA;This is traditional (circa 1910) hardware for doors.  If you google for 'brass screw decorative washers'  you can find suppliers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="650" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T02:01:36.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1797" CreationDate="2015-06-23T02:23:05.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pyrography depends in part on the ignition point of the species.  Which you seem not to want to discuss.  To answer your question, thermal conductivity  as  defined here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/76509/what-is-the-units-for-thermal-conductivity&quot;&gt;https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/76509/what-is-the-units-for-thermal-conductivity&lt;/a&gt; is what you are concerned with, plus the ignition point of the wood.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ignition point has several dimensions. First the moisture content of the wood. Next is the species in terms of extractives with low ignition points.  Extractives example: pine sap.   Dry wood with no extractive factors and zero moisture has approximately the same ignition point given a specific density of the wood.  More dense species, e.g., Lignum vitae (guiacum species), have higher ignition points than Ochroma pyramidale, Balsa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it matters, in my opinion, what wood you use.  As much or maybe more than the conductivity and specific heat ( what you are asking really) of the tip. Jenka hardness also enters into the equation here.  Really hard woods - which are generally more dense, require greater energy input to 'caramelize' ( my own term)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opinions only.  I've never used iron tipped burners, but my pyrography is, um, mostly not high quality.  I am pretty good with Wood Science, however.  For more on the properties of wood try Bruce Hoadley's book - which I would strongly recommend to anyone doing much of anything with wood:&#xA;'Understanding Wood'&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000UQH160&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/UNDERSTANDING-WOOD-2nd-EDITION-Hoadley/dp/B000UQH160&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="650" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:40:17.860" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T02:33:19.993" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="115" CreationDate="2015-06-23T02:38:15.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bruce Hoadley's &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0942391047&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Identifying Wood&lt;/a&gt; makes it much more of a Science than a guessing game. In fact, what Hoadley and other folks do with identification of wood species is admissible in court.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="650" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2015-06-23T07:12:37.657" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T07:12:37.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1769" CreationDate="2015-06-23T02:47:16.203" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wood selection takes back seat to wood anatomy, please consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the reasons plywood resists breakage is that the grain of the wood layers is at right angles.  If you make a doughnut out of a single plank it will break very easily - at the point where the grain directions points to the center of the circle.  If you want something substantial you can try plywood, or try gluing two thinner layers of nice wood together with the grain at right angles, sort of a poor man's plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at old ship's wheels, large wooden gears, or old carriage wheels you will see how the problem of &quot;not&quot; breaking with the grain has been solved in many  different ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Species choice:&#xA;Species like Ulmus (Elm) with helical grain are probably better for this kind of thing.  And lots harder to work dry Elm than other species.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="650" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T02:47:16.203" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1712" CreationDate="2015-06-23T02:48:21.247" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The washers you're looking for are &quot;countersunk washers&quot; or sometimes &quot;brass screw cups&quot;. Here's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=47230&amp;amp;cat=3,41306,41316&amp;amp;ap=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;an image from Lee Valley&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cpXcr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;countersunk washers&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and &lt;a href=&quot;http://hightorquefasteners.co.uk/countersunk-washers-p-118.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;another from High Torque&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4W1kX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;countersunk washers 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, the countersunk versions that you want are often mixed up with regular old surface finishing washers like these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8cnp0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;finishing washers&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T06:40:39.887" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T06:40:39.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1823" CreationDate="2015-06-23T05:33:24.873" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL/DR:&lt;/strong&gt; Don't worry about the alcohol thing; pick a finish that's easy to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What finish can I use that will be indoors and likely will be in&#xA;  contact with alcoholic liquids?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hate to write an answer that doesn't answer your specific question, but I think you're focusing on the wrong thing here. The finish that's best known for being susceptible to damage from alcohol is shellac, and that's because alcohol is a solvent for shellac. But even shellac won't be instantly and irreversible damaged by the amount of alcohol in wine, and repairing a shellac finish is relatively simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In reality, &lt;strong&gt;almost any finish could work&lt;/strong&gt; for a wine rack. Given that, you should look for a finish that matches your experience level. Look for finishes with the following characteristics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;easy&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;fast&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;attractive&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start by learning a little about the various types of finishes. Here's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-to/video/how-to-choose-the-right-finish.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a video from finewoodworking.com&lt;/a&gt; that covers the very basics. As you'll see in the video, there are a number of finishes out there where you just wipe the finish onto your project with a rag and then wipe off the excess. These types of finishes usually dry quickly and tend to be very forgiving: if you missed a spot or want to even the finish out, you can apply more; if you want to change the look, you can rub it down with steel wool or a soft rag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Toxicity isn't usually a big concern except when you're applying finishes (you need to watch out especially for fumes from solvents). Dried/cured finishes are generally safe for most uses, and no finish materials are going to get through a wine bottle. But since you mentioned it, you might want to take a look at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/products/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;finishes from Tried &amp;amp; True&lt;/a&gt;. These are all in the easy/fast/cheap/attractive category. I used the Varnish Oil on a side table I built a dozen years ago, and it continues to look great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, &lt;strong&gt;go with your gut&lt;/strong&gt;. Every woodworker has his or her own favorite finish. In fact, many will talk about a &lt;em&gt;finishing schedule&lt;/em&gt;, i.e. a whole list of finishing steps required to achieve their favorite look. The even-numbered steps generally involve application of some potion or other, and the odd-numbered steps call for application of elbow grease and some form of abrasive material. &lt;strong&gt;Don't be intimidated&lt;/strong&gt; by all that -- you can get a very nice finish by just sanding, applying a single potion as described above, and optionally buffing with a cloth and maybe a touch of wax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2015-06-23T05:44:29.170" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T05:44:29.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1845" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1847" CreationDate="2015-06-23T13:03:21.600" Score="4" ViewCount="6440" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am getting ready to put 3/8&quot; plywood up in my shop for the walls.  I was going to borrow my dad's pneumatic stapler but I forgot it.  What I do have is a 16 gauge nailer that takes nails from 1&quot; to 2&quot;.  (While this might fit better in DIY, I'm here and its for my woodshop!) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I want to know is will 16 gauge nails do an adequate job holding the plywood on my walls?  If so what length would be best and what kind of coverage would be needed?  I was thinking 1.5&quot; about every 8&quot; on the studs. As a bonus, there is a cement block around the base and the plywood will actually be able to rest on the blocks.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T14:24:37.893" Title="securing 3/8&quot; plywood to studs" Tags="|nails|nailing|pneumatic-nailer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1846" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1860" CreationDate="2015-06-23T13:35:45.510" Score="17" ViewCount="3956" Body="&lt;p&gt;At this point I do not have a bench that will support dogs. However even if I did I would have an issue planing the faces of my thin 3/8&quot; wood. The bench dogs I have seen have a clearance of exactly 3/8&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am very eager to use my hand-planes but I don't have the setup for it. I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/tools-hardware/shop-equipment/work-tables-vises/work-tables-benches/jobmate-folding-work-table-0570029p.html?utm_campaign=bazaarvoice&amp;amp;utm_medium=SearchVoice&amp;amp;utm_source=RatingsAndReviews&amp;amp;utm_content=Default&quot;&gt;cheap work table&lt;/a&gt;, with plastic &quot;bench dogs&quot;, that would be perfect to use but the dogs are too tall so I cannot use the plane with them getting in the way or damaged. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I have tried...&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the aforementioned work table, I had placed other wood below the work piece, to prop it up, but could not get a tight fit so everything just moved around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I have considered...&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen jigs where you would screw pieces of wood at opposite ends of the work piece and use wedges to tighten. Given the wood I am using I would have to have stops with shorter wood. Planing the stops is fine, since it is scrap anyway, but I don't how to secure them without damaging the plane (screws would be recessed but with the wood that thin I would expect the plane to break the wood). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I have been doing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For now I have been placing the board on the floor and using a belt sander with my foot as the stop. I am able to do about 80% of a face this way since I don't want sand my feet. What I then do is turn the board ( not flip over ) and finish the other 20% which would not longer be obstructed by my foot. This has lead to inconsistent sanding on occasion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said ... Is there a jig /suggestion of what I can do so that I can hand plane the face of a pallet board that is only about 3/8&quot; high? I am currently looking for a solution without the aid of bench dogs (since I am not capable of supporting them) but will answers supplemented by them would be fine.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-06-23T18:52:23.443" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T06:50:15.480" Title="Planing thin stock without the aid of bench dogs" Tags="|hand-tools|plane|pallet|jig|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1845" CreationDate="2015-06-23T14:17:23.467" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know that I would trust 16 ga nails from a pneumatic nailer, regardless of length, unless there were quite a few of them. The issue is the difference between the body diameter and the head diameter (or lack thereof). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to be hanging tools and/or shop cabinets full of heavy tools from the plywood, I'd recommend finding another fastener like wood screws or in a pinch, drywall screws. Either of those at 1-1/2&quot; long would be bulletproof, spaced every foot to 16&quot; or so vertically. They'd also let you remove the plywood if you need to run more electrical circuits, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T14:17:23.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1845" CreationDate="2015-06-23T14:24:37.893" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with TX Turner -- screws would probably be the way to go. I like to opt for the SPAX screws that self-tap (no pre-drilling and unlikely to split wood) and have the torx bit so it is far less likely for the bit to skip and strip the screw. They might cost more but they are totally worth it. Home Depot carries the the SPAX brand, and Lowes carries a similar brand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="189" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T14:24:37.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1846" CreationDate="2015-06-23T14:58:11.853" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you make new, temporary(?), dogs that are shorter?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Friction like sand paper or sticky stuff like double sided tape might do the stuff.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Then there is the shooting board.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If the board is longer than you want you can nail it down. Preferably with something soft like dowels. Or drive the nails deep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T14:58:11.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1846" CreationDate="2015-06-23T14:58:18.533" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use double sided tape to affix the piece you are working on to a thicker piece, and use your bench dogs.  Similar to how you can use a sled on a planer to plane thin stock.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B003ASGL02&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;SpecTape&lt;/a&gt; from either Woodcraft or Amazon.  It holds material very securely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T14:58:18.533" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1846" CreationDate="2015-06-23T15:49:17.947" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;especially since you already 'hold' down the piece and turn it around I use bench clamps like these.  You attach them to the top of you bench permanently.  I have them on 3 corners (of my bench).  they do an excellent job of hold your work piece and you can do most of the board then turn it around and work on the end that was held down.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fu3HI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-06-23T16:34:16.010" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T16:34:16.010" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1130" CreationDate="2015-06-23T15:51:07.507" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did this on a marine drawer... take a large plaster spatula and tap it between the components. Start at the corners and keep rotating around, this will keep the pieces from splintering or cracking. Then replace the hardware and re-glue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to keep the clean appearance try sanding both faces first with an orbital sander, and just apply Gorilla glue at the top seam and the corners. Don't mess with the glue till hard and then use a chisel to clean up the excess.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="785" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2015-06-23T16:05:21.310" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T16:05:21.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1761" CreationDate="2015-06-23T15:56:01.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;remove the wood completely with spatulas, remove all glue with paint remover and clean with Clorox. re glue wit h gorilla glue, clamping down and also across so the splits are mated. wait until the glue has set and simply scrape it off, sand accordingly and oil or stain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="785" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T15:56:01.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="889" CreationDate="2015-06-23T16:00:29.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First take a razor blade and make a small thin sliver. Use it to clean out the crack. With a thin amount of Tight Bond III, work the sliver into the crack and tap it in place. Weight it down for about a day and then clean up with the razorblade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Never use compressed air with polyurethane or cynoacrilates!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="785" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-06-23T16:25:59.707" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T16:25:59.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="340" CreationDate="2015-06-23T16:07:56.003" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;you can clean up, flatten the damage, with a sander and then glue a similar type of wood piece to it. when it is cured then reform the edge to a square appearance, you may want to mix the dust from the sanding with the glue, tightbond III to minimize the line appearance.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="785" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T16:07:56.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="280" CreationDate="2015-06-23T16:10:38.577" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Methylene-chloride paint remover (or an organic waterbased one) to soften the paint up and then power wash the stuff away. This will preserve the wood and remove the paint. Use goggles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="785" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-11-21T20:50:13.090" LastActivityDate="2019-11-21T20:50:13.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1080" CreationDate="2015-06-23T16:13:21.403" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try water pressure and an air hose to dry. A little bleach can't hurt either; removing active biologicals really helps with the finished piece if it's old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="785" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-08-29T13:57:21.553" LastActivityDate="2019-08-29T13:57:21.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="335" CreationDate="2015-06-23T17:03:08.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sources:&lt;/strong&gt; boat yards, Re-Store, yard/estate sales, furniture warehouse 'broken corner', curbs the night before trash day, rural antique stores, old condemned houses especially in historic areas, rural woodshops and lumber mills. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Most important rule: keep eyes and ears open for opportunities.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tools:&lt;/strong&gt; metal detectors to find nails, grinders (4.5&quot; KwicCut 24 grit) and sanders, pressure washer and stainless steel brushes (welders' brushes).   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="785" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2015-06-23T17:40:13.040" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T17:40:13.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1846" CreationDate="2015-06-23T17:35:50.467" Score="14" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Using the aforementioned work table, I had placed other wood below the work piece, to prop it up, but could not get a tight fit so everything just moved around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think a simple mod here could get this method to work (I've used something similar myself when planing thinner stock many times) although it wouldn't be the primary way I'd suggest you go about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have seen jigs where you would screw pieces of wood at opposite ends of the work piece and use wedges to tighten. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is OK in general principle but I wouldn't recommend any holding system that relies on pinching the boards between stops (as happens if you had a wagon vice for example). With thin stock the potential for the material to bow upwards under the clamping pressure is too great, and even the slightest bow in the centre will result in the piece ending up noticeably thinner in the centre after surfacing both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a jig /suggestion of what I can do so that I can hand plane the face of a pallet board that is only about 3/8&quot; high? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you want ideally is a &lt;em&gt;low-profile stop&lt;/em&gt; and there are a great many ways you can implement this. Since I presume you don't want the hassle of mortising into the top of your bench to allow the installation of a rising stop I'll mention three much simpler options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first one is so very simple but many people today are precious about their workbenches so are resistant to the idea. You drive one or two &lt;strong&gt;brass wood screws&lt;/strong&gt; directly into the benchtop:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KR6R5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Brass screw as planing stop&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not only does the edge of a screw head provide a surprisingly good grip on the end of a board this type of stop can be varied in height to suit the stock you're working on by simply being driven in or backed off (as well as driven home completely to leave the benchtop clear once more).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method is not new and may go back as far as the 19th century, here it is as a reader-submitted tip in the June 1959 issue of &lt;em&gt;Popular Mechanics&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GKKuh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Popular Mechanics tip&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As in the above two images the screws can be used directly as the stop, but an alternative is to use them to hold a wooden stop across the benchtop against which the end of your board rests, as in the next image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vRFq8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Brass screws hold planing stop&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second tip will work if you have a face vice, or dog holes in a front apron that would allow holdfasts to grip in a similar way. You make a type of planing stop that is a little like a T-square in form; these go by a few names, including a face-planing stop but sometimes are simply called a &lt;strong&gt;bench planing stop&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's one example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gbiOC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;T-shaped planing stop&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The short leg or keel is gripped in the jaws of the vice, or held by a holdfast, and the arm extends across your workbench as the stop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: one design detail that isn't always incorporated into these is that the top of the keel block should be planed at a very slight angle (leaving the outside edge high, inside edge low). What this does is very firmly press the arm down once the keel is clamped securely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see shop scraps can provide the necessary material, a narrow length of ply and a piece of 1x2, so it's no problem to make two or three in multiple thicknesses to accommodate the planing of a wide variety of stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last but not least, &lt;strong&gt;a bench hook&lt;/strong&gt; with a low-profile back stop. Although bench hooks are commonly fairly small and primarily used as sawing aids the same basic design can be adapted for them to function as planing jigs (both for face planing as well as simple shooting boards). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And while they are typically fairly small, intended to be used across the bench, they can be made of significant size (in excess of 2' long if needed) to be used along the length of the bench:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xxEkN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Long bench hook, low-profile stop&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T17:35:50.467" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1826" CreationDate="2015-06-23T22:43:42.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cut the block in half lengthwise. Use your router to cut 1/2 of a hole in each piece lengthwise (like a trench). Glue the blocks back together. Alternatively, if you have a plunge router, and the hole you need is not too deep, very carefully, a little at a time, cut the hole with that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="792" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T22:43:42.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1863" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1865" CreationDate="2015-06-24T04:57:53.227" Score="12" ViewCount="20464" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a nice wood cabinet that lost a small chunk of wood from the front door in a recent move. (Photos below.) Naturally, that chunk of wood was on the exterior where it's plainly visible &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; where the lower hinge attaches, thereby rendering the door inoperable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The missing piece is thin, about 1/4 inch deep at most. All I can think to do is replace the missing piece with wood filler, sand and stain, and drill new holes for the hinge screws. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then hope for the best and pray everyone is very gentle with that door. It seems unlikely to me that wood filler will hold well because it's a surface repair and therefore wouldn't stand up under the strain of being attached to a hinge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there other options? How can I repair this piece?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Exterior view showing the missing piece:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QIGYC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Interior view:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vTwRM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="482" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T16:47:59.060" Title="How to repair missing chunk of wood from cabinet door?" Tags="|furniture|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1863" CreationDate="2015-06-24T06:01:16.360" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The good news is that your door has a very simple profile, at least that's what it looks like in the pictures. To fix it, cut out a slighly larger rectangle that extends just past the fractured surface. Then make a patch the same size as the cutout, preferably from the same species of wood, with a similar grain pattern. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then glue and clamp it in place. If you want to go the extra mile, you could rout a tongue and groove on the top and bottom sides to help with alignment and strength, since those edges will be end grain joins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T06:01:16.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1863" CreationDate="2015-06-24T11:37:50.757" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It seems unlikely to me that wood filler will hold well because it's a surface repair and therefore wouldn't stand up under the strain of being attached to a hinge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well there's wood filler and there's wood filler. There are few commercial varieties that would be suitable for a repair of this nature, but that's simply because they're primarily intended for filling of minor surface defects that don't require anything in the way of structural strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although there are better solutions than filling as a general principle, if you did want to try filling a far stronger compound than most commercial wood fillers can be made at home very easily, by mixing wood flour (sanding dust) with standard two-part epoxy glue. At best this bonds extremely well and is incredibly tough (much harder than the wood it replaces in actual fact) but it's still not the ideal fix in a location like this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing missing wood with wood is far preferable as a rule where strength is required. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it seems like taking a step in the wrong direction the first step is to remove more wood, but you have to create neat clean edges that allow for an exactly matching repair patch to be successfully glued to. In this case sawing out a rectangular piece just long enough to remove all splintered wood is probably the way to go. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of marking out two rectangles, on the door and on the replacement wood, and then cutting both it is better to cut the notch from the door first and then &lt;em&gt;mark your replacement wood directly from it&lt;/em&gt;; this is far more likely to result in a tight-fitting repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although a repair of this nature is quite simple to do there are two main difficulties usually encountered: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stock selection &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;finish repair&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finding wood that matches the existing furniture can be challenging at the best of times and is impossible at others, so sometimes you have to resign yourself to a close-enough match that is lighter in colour and then use wood dye or stain to achieve a closer colour match before final finishing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finish repair is actually the largest hurdle in some ways. Many film finishes, such as this is likely to be coated in, are considered unrepairable so that stripping the whole panel would normally be the minimum that is advised, or the entire piece of furniture in some cases. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that you try the former first and strip the door (which would already be removed from the cabinet making stripping easier), then try to match the existing finish across the door and its patch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How best to match the existing finish would be a good follow-on Question. To best answer it more (and ideally better-quality) photos of the piece may be required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T11:37:50.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1866" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-24T13:29:14.410" Score="14" ViewCount="7797" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a small project out of 1/4&quot; Baltic birch plywood. I marked up the boards with lumber crayons and then wrote cut marks and part identifications with a pencil.  I did most of my sanding with 120 grit to remove the marks and then did a light pass with 150 grit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It wasn't until I noticed that my once tight-fitting dados were now loose that I realized that I almost sanded through the top layer of the plywood in my efforts to remove the marks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any non-abrasive, wood-safe ways to remove these marks?  If not, how do most woodworkers deal with this on veneered surfaces?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-06-24T14:25:11.050" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T14:35:29.673" Title="How do I remove pencil and lumber crayon marks non-abrasively?" Tags="|sanding|plywood|veneer|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1866" CreationDate="2015-06-24T14:01:01.067" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't make marks where they will show up on the finished piece in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prefer marking in places so the mark will be on the inside or use masking tape to hold the identifying marks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T14:01:01.067" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1866" CreationDate="2015-06-24T14:22:51.887" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two suggestions, for the crayons, that I have heard of are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Light planing&lt;/strong&gt; where the marks are. It has the advantage of targeting where the marks so that you are not actually removing the wood at all. Just the crayon that is sitting above the wood. This should not damage the blade. I read the question again and this might not be an ideal solution for veneer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mineral spirits&lt;/strong&gt; on a rag was is something that I have seen being used. I cannot personally attest for its effectiveness. Much like other solvents proper ventilation is key. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't use a pencil where I know a face or portion of the wood will be showing. It usually makes small indentations in the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-06-24T14:50:19.953" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T14:50:19.953" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1866" CreationDate="2015-06-24T14:58:50.927" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order that I try them, I always try the following to remove scuffs, pencil  marks, and/or gunk that I get on things as I'm building:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;denatured alcohol&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mineral spirits&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lacquer thinner&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;acetone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;turpentine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, another thing that I've used on particularly stubborn marks? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And no, this isn't a product endorsement, and don't laugh..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mr. Clean Magic Eraser.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, seriously, heh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of those &lt;em&gt;usually&lt;/em&gt; works. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2015-06-24T15:58:45.270" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T15:58:45.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1866" CreationDate="2015-06-24T15:39:31.530" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It wasn't until I noticed that my once tight-fitting dados were now loose that I realized that I almost sanded through the top layer of the plywood in my efforts to remove the marks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're not the first person to do something like this striving to erase layout marks or notes from wood by sanding and you won't be the last. It's the kind of thing that clearly indicates how poorly suited to the task the method is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that I've tried other methods and seen how well they work I would never, under any circumstances, recommend removing pencil marks by sanding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is viable for the removal of wood to be the means to remove layout marks from the surface (i.e. if any reduction in width or thickness is not critical at that stage in the building process) then both planing with a finely-set plane or card scraping would be preferable to sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it's necessary to have a method that can be used in the many instances when you can't safely pare some wood from the surface, and the best of those in my experience is by wiping with acetone; nothing else even approaches its effectiveness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know quite how it works but it's something to do with the specific solvent action of acetone and how it interacts with graphite. To use: dampen a corner of a clean rag or a bit of paper towel with the acetone, wipe and pencil marks just vanish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never used acetone on marks left by lumber crayons but it should work on those too. However, I believe they are wax-based so it's likely that just mineral spirits (UK: white spirit) will be effective with those. Another possible method for those posted at bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be comprehensive I should include other methods that haven't been mentioned in the existing responses:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Common pencil erasers; these can leave a dark smudge on the wood surface just like they can on paper so I can't recommend the method unreservedly, although they can work well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Putty erasers; these can leave a slight greasy trace on paper and consequently can on wood too so again I have reservations.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crayon marks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;White bread ball; sound bizarre but it works well to remove normal crayon marks from painted wall, wallpaper and other surfaces. Just rip off a chunk of white bread (avoid crust), form it into a tight ball and rub on the marks and away they go.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T15:39:31.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="335" CreationDate="2015-06-24T16:46:10.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a different tack - antique restorers want old wood.  This is because wood changes colors and sometimes other characteristics with time.  For example exposure to UV light darkens light wood, and sort of bleaches dark woods.  Pumpkin (orange-y) white pine gets that way from ageing.  UV also can destroy lignin (the compound in wood that holds cellulose strands together), resulting in a rough surface, or one that is fuzzy looking with wisps of fibers waving in the breeze.  Most people are also familiar with sunburned cherry.  Place a small &#xA;coin on a cherry scrap.  Put the scrap + coin in direct sunlight for a few hours. Voila. The spot under the coin is lighter compared to the surrounding wood which is darker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long term ageing has effects deeper into the wood fibers than just sunburning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping that old look is important in this context.  So restorers have stocks of old wood that they try to maintain most of existing the surface on, cleaned up by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;using finish removers&#xA;removing old glue with warm moist toweling&#xA;Using wood scrapers to remove fuzz&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This all works because most older fine furniture used hide glue and shellac/copal/amber resins as a finish.  All of which is easy to remove - resins with alcohol, hide glue with warmth and moisture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alkyd Varnishes and nitrocellulose lacquers took off as furniture finsih in the early 1900's.  These require generally nastier and smellier chemicals to strip off the finish than alcohol.  Craftsman furniture often used a stain made from petroleum distillate (aka tar), the modern version of this is roofing cement.&#xA;After you get though the removing outer coat, you have flood the piece with mineral spirits and zap with a soft brass brush to evict the remaining &quot;stain&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Framing wood and architectural wood has other problems - and require methods which the previous posters have covered.  Methods that are very effective and that are more destructive than the stuff I've mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="650" LastEditorUserId="650" LastEditDate="2015-06-24T16:56:30.037" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T16:56:30.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="215" CreationDate="2015-06-24T16:47:21.967" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a 'hardness limit' to which woods would be appropriate for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Within reason I don't believe there is. Many picture frames are made of pine of course so anything like a glazing point or finish nail can be pushed or lightly hammered into the surface without difficulty. But even with oak and beech frames points can usually be pushed in using only the pressure provided by a flathead screwdriver tip. Although a better tool for doing this is a firm-bladed putty knife. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is some difficulty they can be squeezed in. There are a variety of commercial tools made to do this but any wide-mouth pliers (e.g. Channellock pliers) can be used for the purpose, with some card or scrap wood on the outside surface to protect the frame from bruising or denting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5MDWG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pliers squeeze point home&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;in particular I am unsure of whether or not the points will stay in place in the long term. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They appear to hold fine over time. There are reports of them shifting and even falling out but that is also the case with small brads/finish nails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T16:47:21.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="164" CreationDate="2015-06-24T17:46:29.543" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without a photo it's a little difficult to be absolutely certain what your problem is, but I'll try to cover the ones that I think apply to your situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you built your floor, then butted the walls on top of the floor, and any rain that catches the edge of the floor seeps under the wall. Regardless of which solution you choose, you should keep in mind that it's always a good idea to slope any exterior horizontal surface (even if only slightly) so it can shed water rather than allowing it to pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first inclination is to say that you should have instead installed the wall frames out to the edge of the floor, then install your plywood to the outside so the bottom of the sheet extends below the top of the floor, and ideally below the bottom of the floor. This creates a drip edge so water follows the wall below the floor surface and the water &lt;em&gt;cannot&lt;/em&gt; infiltrate into the structure. If your plywood does not extend past the bottom of the floor, you can install aluminum flashing to help carry the water below the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The join is a horizontal plank joining a vertical one inn the middle.&#xA;  So it's a floor joining to a wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, without a picture I can't be certain what your problem is, but this comment makes me think half of your floor is inside the structure and the other half is outside the structure, as in a porch. A possible solution in this case is to frame the wall and install right-angle flashing on the floor where the wall frame and floor meet. Caulk or otherwise seal it to the floor, then attach your plywood sheathing to the wall so it covers the vertical part of the flashing but does not extend all the way to the floor. This allows it to slide up and down with the seasons and prevents the bottom from absorbing pooled water on the floor and rotting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T17:46:29.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1863" CreationDate="2015-06-24T21:14:55.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A technique I like using which can be applied to several problems such as yours is to fill the chipped-out area with Bondo(as in autobody filler). If the chip out is shallow I like to drill little 1/8 inch holes about 1/8 inch deep to give the Bondo multiple sites to grab onto so the repair wont fall out. Bondo sands beautifully if you use a nicely sized sanding block to shape the repair and prime and paint the repair it should be be almost invisible forever. If you need to put screws into the Bondo repair I suggest drilling and tapping the mounting hole(s) as Bondo is somewhat brittle so be careful. If you are new to this idea try a sample repair on a separate piece of wood just to get a feel for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="410" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T21:14:55.040" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1846" CreationDate="2015-06-24T21:16:30.370" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try retrofitting a plane stop to the end of your bench. In the &lt;a href=&quot;https://literaryworkshop.wordpress.com/2013/01/25/retrofitted-planing-stop/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;example one here&lt;/a&gt; It is made in a way where you can raise it as little as you need. Even as low as 1/4&quot; if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find it very useful and quick to add to a bench that can't take dog holes. Alternatively, I haven even just driven a screw into my bench and used that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4cAX6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image from the Literary Workshop&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;Image from the Literary Workshop&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user234" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T21:16:30.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1876" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1878" CreationDate="2015-06-25T15:44:00.923" Score="17" ViewCount="18094" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: I am not very experienced in woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am currently sanding my desk, which has become dirty over time. If I look at the sandpaper, it's got brown spots on it, like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qCs4i.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;brown spots&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are these and should I worry?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I'm using one of these: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bfc44.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sandy thing&quot;&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="799" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-06-27T16:55:19.583" LastActivityDate="2020-02-03T20:48:39.823" Title="What are these brown spots on my sandpaper?" Tags="|sanding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1876" CreationDate="2015-06-25T15:55:46.943" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is that these spots on your sandpaper can get deposited back on the surface you're sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those spots typically means that you need to clean the paper a bit more often as you sand. What's happening is that the finish (and/or gunk) that you're sanding away is getting clogged in the pores of the sandpaper and is melting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean (or change) the paper more often and these will go away. You could also start with a rougher grit, which won't clog as easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T15:55:46.943" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1876" CreationDate="2015-06-25T18:26:28.770" Score="25" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What are these and should I worry?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is called &lt;em&gt;corning&lt;/em&gt; and yes it is something to pay attention to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Corning is distinct from normal clogging — notice the dark colour, as opposed to dust clinging to the paper which is usually very light. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Corns are generally formed of either resins from the wood itself or a finish in or on the surface, such as varnish of course. &lt;em&gt;All&lt;/em&gt; finishes that dry hard can lead to corning, including drying oils, shellac, varnish and lacquers. And as well as that glue residue can cause it too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason you don't want to continue to use corned paper is that the corns 1, interfere with proper sanding (because they sit higher than the surrounding grit they reduce sanding efficiency since less grit is in contact with the wood) and 2, they can actually scratch or bruise the wood surface in the worst of cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Prevention is better than cure&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It's best to try to avoid corns forming although this is not always possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Corns tend to form most when you press down hard on your paper — which experts tell us not to do anyway, regardless of sanding method; &lt;em&gt;&quot;let the paper do the work&quot;&lt;/em&gt; as the saying goes — and/or if you sand very quickly. Both pressure and speed means the paper can generate a lot of heat which softens or actually melts resins, which can then cling to and harden on the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with speed as a cause is that it is inherent to most powered sanding operations, which is why it's not always possible to completely avoid this happening. So it's vital that you not press hard, no matter how tempting it is! For vibratory or rotational sanders you want the weight of your hand resting on the sander to be the only pressure, no muscle power should be used to press the sander onto the surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also try to move the sander in a measured, even way, not exactly slow but definitely not fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What to do when you do get them&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Corns can be robust enough that they're very difficult to dislodge from paper. One old technique recommended in older guides is to drag the sanding block (or the pad of the palm sander in your case) sharply over the edge of a piece of wood, hardwood preferably. This is worth trying still but I've found it isn't that effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better method is to brush over the paper with a wire brush. Brass-bristled or bronze-bristled brushes are sufficient for this, but you can use steel brushes if that's all you have. At best this brushing will remove all or almost all corning and you can then continue sanding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If brushing doesn't remove enough it's worth trying to scrape the remainder off using the edge of something like a 'beater' chisel that you keep around for rough jobs, or with a stiff-bladed putty knife (probably the better too for the job). Either way there is a chance you'll tear or cut through the paper, in which case you should toss it and apply a fresh piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although they're not always available for power sanders I should mention there are papers that are purpose-made to help prevent clogging and these will tend to be more resistant to corning as well. These papers generally are of one of two types:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lubricated (usually with a wax-like material, these are called stearated papers)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;open-coat abrasives, which have a wider spacing of the grit particles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2015-06-25T18:32:00.433" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T18:32:00.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1880" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-26T00:27:03.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;em&gt;many&lt;/em&gt; types of finishes, numerous ways they can be applied, and many possible combinations. Whether it is in the category of staining, oiling, shellacking, varnishing, lacquering, painting, glazing, etc. you might need helping picking which finish or combination of finishes are ideal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T18:59:18.480" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T18:59:18.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1881" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-26T00:27:03.017" Score="0" Body="Questions regarding finish selection for a project." OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T18:59:18.480" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T18:59:18.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1882" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-26T00:32:55.440" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Staining used to refer to colouring the wood directly, but in more recent times the term has become diluted to refer to coloured finishes that are applied on the surface but do not actually colour the wood itself. Products such as &lt;strong&gt;gel stain&lt;/strong&gt; and &quot;combination stain and varnish&quot; are examples of modern finishes which use stain in the name but are not stains in the conventional sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T18:35:52.417" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T18:35:52.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1883" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-26T00:32:55.440" Score="0" Body="The tools and techniques surrounding the process of coloring the wood while maintaining the appearance of the grain." OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-06-26T00:32:55.440" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T00:32:55.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1884" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-26T00:36:46.840" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Router bits come in a huge range of profiles but also different shaft diameters and it is important for safety to select bits that fit your router properly. This is complicated by both metric and imperial bits being manufactured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T19:09:43.937" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T19:09:43.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1885" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-26T00:36:46.840" Score="0" Body="Partnered with a router are used to profile wood. Wide selection of bits makes for interesting patterns." OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-06-26T00:36:46.840" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T00:36:46.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1887" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1888" CreationDate="2015-06-26T15:47:24.577" Score="15" ViewCount="26635" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wife wants to create custom painted toy blocks as a gift for a friend. The block will be approximately 3 inches per side, or whatever dimension is convenient based on the wood I purchase. I plan on cutting them using table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What type of wood is appropriate for this project? Ideally it would be available at a big home improvement center, but I'm open to other options if they have significant advantages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="804" LastEditorUserId="38" LastEditDate="2015-06-27T02:28:53.817" LastActivityDate="2019-05-10T13:15:00.147" Title="What's an appropriate wood type for making toy blocks?" Tags="|wood-selection|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1887" CreationDate="2015-06-26T16:04:10.540" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The big box home improvement centers in my area don't stock nice lumber thicker than 3/4&quot;. 2x pine lumber, sure, but nothing you'd want to use to make a kids toy that might go in a mouth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend hard maple for its properties:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dimensionally stable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clear grain (not likely to produce splinters)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Takes paint well&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check resistant  (holds up to being slobbered on)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will last for more than one generation of kids.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="38" LastEditDate="2015-06-26T17:10:29.220" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T17:10:29.220" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1887" CreationDate="2015-06-26T16:43:02.447" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually 2x4's could be perfectly fine for this, depending on what you are actually looking for as an end product. They come in thicker dimensions and are a softer wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are looking to make something more like this &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tgF8z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I'd go with a hard wood.  Oak, Maple are both good woods to use.  I would look for a species that they have in both regular lumber and matching dowels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T16:43:02.447" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1863" CreationDate="2015-06-26T16:47:59.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;there are two parts to this the cosmetic and the structural.&#xA;first remove the door. &#xA;the cosmetic goes two ways . if you have the piece all the better use a block of poly or a poly ethelyne sheet with a wood block to press down the on top of the piece with gorilla glue or titebond III WITH CLAMPS held fast.. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if not then locate a scrap of the same kind of wood, sand/grind the broken area out with a 4.5 inch angle sander grinder (dewalt paddle is my fav)  and make a new piece that will mirror the divot. glue into place and then reshape the edges flat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;structural. drill out the screw holes to a size of dowel rod oak or poplar that seems appropriate so that when you drill the dowel out for the screws there will be plenty of dowel meat for the screws to seat in. gorilla glue the dowels in and when cured flat sand and drill out the screw holes. use new stainless Phillips screws. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="785" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T16:47:59.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1887" CreationDate="2015-06-26T17:46:39.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should consider allergies and toxicity. Maple gives you all the properties you want and is hypoallergenic. It's why most wooden toys are made of maple. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="806" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T17:46:39.340" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1846" CreationDate="2015-06-27T06:50:15.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the workpiece width is less than width of plane blade I will mount plane in my bench vise and move workpiece over plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="494" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T06:50:15.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1887" CreationDate="2015-06-27T16:10:42.393" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made many blocks using birch.  It's a durable hardwood, not as heavy as maple and generally more affordable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As reasonable as 3&quot; cubes might sound, you might be very happy with 1 1/2&quot; cubes which would be a size for which you could easily acquire wood.  You would buy 2&quot; boards and by the time you get them planed smooth you will be looking at something close to 1 1/2&quot;.  Also, small hands will have trouble grasping 3&quot; blocks, and when those wee hands grow a little, the 3 inchers can become heavy, dangerous missiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is interesting to note that the traditional Tinkertoys were made from birch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T16:10:42.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1894" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1896" CreationDate="2015-06-28T12:11:38.563" Score="22" ViewCount="32816" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many tutorials on making a square to check that corners are 90 degrees, but they all require you to use a square to check. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how can you make a square, without using a square? How were they originally made if the accuracy needed to be right, but modern methods of measurement and manufacture were not available?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just starting out with woodworking, and as I don't have a project I want to complete as yet, I'm interested in making many of the tools I'd use as part of the learning process (mallets, squares, marker gauge, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Budget is very tight, but I don't mind incremental steps to the end goal, such as making a just-about-good-enough bench on which to build a better one. I've been watching a lot of Paul Sellers Youtube videos and they have spurred me on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="809" LastEditorUserId="3562" LastEditDate="2019-03-12T14:57:18.973" LastActivityDate="2019-03-12T14:57:18.973" Title="How can you make a square without a square?" Tags="|hand-tools|traditional-techniques|square|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1894" CreationDate="2015-06-28T12:31:01.670" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;An easy way to measure this is by using Pythagoras' theorem (A^2 + B^2 = C^2 for a right triangle). If you measure for 3, 4, and 5 (since 9 + 16 = 25) you can easily mark a perfect right triangle. You can use any measurement (3 inches, 30 cm, 15 cm (which are 3 * 5), etc.). This will give you one 90 degree corner. From there just measure two sides that are the same length and repeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I'd suggest buying a try-square or other such tool. They are accurate, not too expensive and very useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T12:31:01.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1894" CreationDate="2015-06-28T12:32:37.930" Score="10" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So how can you make a square, without using a square? How were they originally made if the accuracy needed to be right, but modern methods of measurement and manufacture were not available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rope, and Pythagoras triangle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A long time ago, the Great Pyramid of Giza was built. This was way before any modern, recognised system of working out a square - and &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5ZbgR.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;yet it is square&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We also know this, Pythagoras' Theorem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NJT2w.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you create a triangle that has edges of length 3, 4 and 5 you can create a right angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can they create a triangle like this? Tie 12 knots in a piece of rope, equally spaced:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HToMH.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then make it into a triangle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lzj4zm.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that gives a right angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Budget is very tight but I don't mind incremental steps to the end goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess you have a piece of paper to hand? If you feel that is cheating, you could use a ruler to draw that triangle, or make it yourself with string.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="813" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T12:32:37.930" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1894" CreationDate="2015-06-28T12:36:40.500" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, to start, today's squares really are pretty cheap and it wouldn't cost much more than the materials if you are going to make it out of metal.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, making one out of wood, if you have a rectangle with the opposite sides the same length, then measuring the distance between opposite corners is the way to go.  When both measurements are equal, all corners are 90 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T12:36:40.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1894" CreationDate="2015-06-28T16:17:33.000" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm just starting out with woodworking, and as I don't have a project I want to complete as yet, I'm interested in making many of the tools I'd use as part of the learning process (mallets, squares, marker gauge etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how I am learning woodworking, and eventually metalworking, as well. It's a good way to go. Building squares is a nice little project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So how can you make a square, without using a square? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are right that there seems at first to be a chicken-and-egg problem here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible to make an accurate square without having an accurate square to check it, but you need things that are &lt;em&gt;straight&lt;/em&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose you can obtain two pieces of wood that have at least one flat, straight side.  Those will be the outer sides of your square.  Use one of the pieces to draw a straight horizontal line on something flat.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Temporarily join the two pieces together such that they can still be rotated with respect to each other -- like, put a single screw through them, or a single dowel, or whatever.  Get them as square as you can.  Then put one side along the line you just drew with the square arranged like the letter L, and use your new square to draw the perpendicular line.  Now &lt;em&gt;flip the whole thing over&lt;/em&gt;, so that it is now a backwards L, and try to draw the exact same perpendicular line. If the square is accurate, the perpendiculars will coincide. If it is not, you can estimate how far out of square your square is, adjust it, and try again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep doing that until you get something that is as close to square as you want it to be, and put another fastener into the square so that it can no longer rotate, and hey, you have an accurate square built out of only an accurate straight line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now of course the question is &quot;how do I produce an accurate straight line?&quot; But that's another question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How were they originally made if the accuracy needed to be right, but modern methods of measurement and manufacture were not available. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do not say how far back in history you want to go. The ways that the ancient Egyptians made sure their building blocks were square are rather different than the ways that medieval carpenters used to make square buildings, and those are rather different than the techniques used to build square, accurate machine tools during the industrial revolution. Make your question more precise if you are interested in the history of tool building.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've been watching a lot of Paul Sellers youtube videos and they have spurred me on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;woodgears.ca is also a good site for this sort of thing; there are videos there on how to make your own try squares, framing squares, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="103" LastEditorUserId="103" LastEditDate="2015-06-28T16:23:12.597" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T16:23:12.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1899" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1916" CreationDate="2015-06-28T18:36:30.350" Score="6" ViewCount="1767" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tl;dr  -  durable, affordable desk surface. &lt;br/&gt;&#xA;I want to build a large (9ft x 2.5ft) workbench/desk.  I'm planning on doing a lot of soldering and building on it, but I also want to be able to do homework and writing as well. If the surface has dings in it, it'll be a pain to write on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would prefer some kind of laminate but I'm afraid it will be melted if I have a soldering accident.  What is a good, durable surface for a desktop that won't melt or ding easily?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd prefer something that I could get for under 50 USD or so for the area specified.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some kind of wood that would be OK for this application?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some basic woodworking tools (miter, table saw) and determination so I don't think available tools will be an issue.   Thanks for your help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Eventually I've decided on an easily removable and tile-able system of tempered hardboard held in place by gravity and a small edge of the desk.  This way I can easily swap out sections by lifting it off and replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="751" LastEditorUserId="751" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T20:40:36.120" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T20:40:36.120" Title="Best surface for a workbench / desk?" Tags="|furniture|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1894" CreationDate="2015-06-28T18:39:36.983" Score="10" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So how can you make a square, without using a square? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two very simple methods, the first relies on measurement, the second is empirical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If accurate measurement is available you can rely on the &lt;em&gt;3-4-5 rule&lt;/em&gt;, already referenced in the Answers you've received.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I happen to have just made an accurate pocket try square using this method:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ColnA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Homemade try square&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assembling the parts dry I marked 6cm across on the short arm (the stock) and 8cm up the blade. Then I applied glue and inserted the blade into the stock and lightly clamped, adjusted the position until I measured 10cm precisely between the two marks and left it until the glue had set. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the glue was hard I drilled through the joint for three pins to lock the joint securely. I used copper here but other metals can be used as well (even mild steel, e.g. sourced from paperclips or basic wire nails) and if preferred wooden dowels can be used instead of metal. There isn't any significant difference in strength or stability for a piece like this going with wood over metal, I used the copper purely for looks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second method can only be used where you have a long enough working window on the adhesive used, or you don't glue and are merely holding the blade in the stock (e.g. by clamping force) and can then can lock its position in place with pins, nails or screws without the parts shifting. What you do is directly compare the squared line drawn by the try square &lt;em&gt;against itself&lt;/em&gt;. Working from a perfectly flat edge, once there is no discrepancy between the squared line drawn with the try square used one way and then flipped over you have a perfect 90° angle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3O2Pb.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Checking try square&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm just starting out with woodworking, and as I don't have a project I want to complete as yet, I'm interested in making many of the tools I'd use as part of the learning process (mallets, squares, marker gauge etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an excellent idea and you'll learn a great deal doing this, in addition to creating a host of useful tools, jigs and accessories in the process of course. Please be sure to ask further questions if you'd like input on other things you might like to build. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an existing Question about a that you might find informative: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1321/whats-a-bench-hook&quot;&gt;What's a bench hook?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T08:35:30.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1902" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1903" CreationDate="2015-06-29T00:13:43.667" Score="11" ViewCount="2259" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of plywood products are slightly undersized by 1/32&quot;, e.g. 23/32 instead of 3/4, 15/32 in 1/2, etc. The undersizing often requires very careful math and measurements when constructing things, or the purchase of specialty hardware such as the many plywood specific router bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is the plywood undersized?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2017-05-30T16:27:28.897" LastActivityDate="2017-05-30T16:27:28.897" Title="Why is plywood often undersized?" Tags="|plywood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1902" CreationDate="2015-06-29T12:05:24.897" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This seems to be a matter of manufacturing and in &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; cases quality (in the sense of &lt;em&gt;You get what you paid for&lt;/em&gt;) which is more speaking of the choice of wood, type and thickness of core and type and thickness of the veneer. The one thing you didn't explicitly imply either is that the thickness of a sheet of plywood could also be inconsistently think throughout the sheet, which is also a pain. To quote the article that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/basics/choose_the_right_plywood&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Maxime Morin found&lt;/a&gt; which also concurs with bowlturners comment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The reasoning is that an undersized thinner panel will still fit in a groove cut at the nominal size, but an oversized panel would not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is hard to predict what each sheet class of plywood will end up like post manufacturing which is why there are grading systems&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. It is also important to keep in mind that moisture will play a &lt;em&gt;small&lt;/em&gt; part in this ( again.. more deals with quality.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at forums from people discussing this issue is just accepted as fact that this is a possibility that needs to be accounted for. One of the many reasons why I own digital caliper. Tool manufacturers are also aware of this because you see products like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.ca/Freud-89-650-Undersized-Plywood-Hi-Density/dp/B000NJ7AZG#productDetails&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;undersized plywood router bits&lt;/a&gt; which are &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Designed to cut slop-free dadoes for today's slightly thinner sheet goods&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Quoted from product description for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.ca/Freud-89-650-Undersized-Plywood-Hi-Density/dp/B000NJ7AZG#productDetails&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Freud 89-650 Four Piece Undersized Plywood Router Bit Set&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is one reason why MDF has such a cult following. It is easier to get a more consistent thickness and appearance (no knots!). MDF is recommended when you need to have consistent dimensions and don't mind the extra weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to see if there is any worthy technical reference articles that discuss this variance but have not found any as of yet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find it again but there was a comment from another WW.SE user who mentioned something along the lines of &quot;This is why measuring in the field is important&quot;. I believe the point being made was don't assume measurements. Measure twice, cut once. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plywood#Grades&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Grading systems&lt;/a&gt; vary by region and can vary between manufacturers. The sentence is included to bolster the point of not every sheet is created equal.&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T00:32:48.833" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T00:32:48.833" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1907" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1908" CreationDate="2015-06-29T17:03:27.243" Score="17" ViewCount="4846" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to start designing some boxes based on an idea that I have. But I've never worked with wood before and I have no woodworking tools so I would need to purchase whatever tools are required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to get a direction to aim for that would allow to me to begin building some basic boxes that are still decent quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the joint to use?&#xA;What would be the tools required to create that joint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="827" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-06-29T18:05:26.213" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T15:43:29.187" Title="What is the simplest joint for a non-experienced woodworker to start with?" Tags="|technique|joinery|boxes|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1907" CreationDate="2015-06-29T17:09:06.667" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Butt joints are the easiest joint to make and have been used for centuries.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tRPiP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to account for the width of the corners that over lap when making size cuts with this joint but it isn't that hard.  Screws, glue, nails all can be used to attach the joint, depending on the use the box will be used for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only tools you really need for this joint is a drill to pilot the holes through the face board so the ends don't split and either a screw driver to drive the screws or a hammer to drive the nails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to up things a notch you can move on to mitered joints, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gT5EP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People use dowels, splines, nails, glue, and screws to secure these joints.  They will need more tools and a little more skill to perform well. Minimum these need a miter to make the cut. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last thing.  a 'Box joint' is actually a specific kind of joint.  this you need a saw or a router to make even cuts on both corners that will interweave to make a nice solid corner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zkg2Y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-06-29T17:26:02.013" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T17:26:02.013" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1817" CreationDate="2015-06-29T17:13:42.663" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;correct&lt;/em&gt; answer or at least the canon answer @bowlturner has already mentioned.  Doing the whole room is the best way to do things.  That said...its more expensive and more time-consuming.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your problem is in the middle of a floor, in a high traffic area, spread out over a decent sized area (2 sq feet ore more really) or otherwise blatantly obvious...yeah you are going to have to sand everything (it would be best if you could post a picture of the area you need to fix).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now...all that said I have touched up spots on floors before...and while they personally drive me insane because I see every minute flaw, most don't notice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a relatively small flaw/area here is what I have done (and to all the perfectionists, no...I am not proud of this :) )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tape around the area as tightly as you can, meaning don't make it a square.  Give about 1/2 inch between the tape and the flaw(s) all the way around.  &lt;strong&gt;Make sure you use quality tape that will not pull up.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sand...yeah I said it...sand.  Now.  How much you sand depends on the depth of the flaw.  If it is just a flaw in the finish...ignore everything I said, get some floor wax and buff the crap out of it.  Problem solved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is deeper, meaning into the wood, sand as needed to smooth things out, apply a stain absorbing filler if necessary.  Sand the entire taped area at least enough to roughen up the finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean really really really well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apply finish.  I actually use an aerosol spray finish most of the time, they usually come in satin, semi-gloss and gloss.  Spray the finish and let it dry completely, use thin coats of finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apply finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sand &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apply finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pull the tape painter style (back on itself rather than up).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sand with a smooth grit paper or sometimes you can get away with a 0000 steel wool...be gentle either way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once that is done buff/polish the floor and it should blend in pretty decently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method is all about touch, go light, if you're heavy handed it'll just be a pain&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="212" LastEditorUserId="212" LastEditDate="2015-06-29T17:19:17.700" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T17:19:17.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1907" CreationDate="2015-06-29T17:50:13.900" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a novice woodworker.  I found pocket hole joints easy and sturdy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a pocket hole jig&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Driver&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and the appropriate screws&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest negative to a pocket hole joint is the large pocket holes.  You can will need to use a nice bit of filler to cover it or use a plug. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="601" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T17:50:13.900" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1907" CreationDate="2015-06-29T18:03:30.960" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The corner butt joint would be the very simplest joint to use for joining the sides of a box: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0BEsv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Corner butt joint&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This requires very little in the way of tools at the most basic, in theory you only need one saw to cut your wood to length. Then you simply fasten the pieces together — this can be done with glue alone, and without the aid of clamps if necessary. I should mention that only glued this joint is not particularly strong, however for boxes it can be strong enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However sawing would leave a rougher surface on the cut ends of the wood that should be smoothed and this would really then require one or more additional tools, for example a hand plane or a powered sander of some sort (manual sanding is an option but it takes a lot of effort).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if the sawn edges are properly smoothed this sort of joint is not considered very attractive, but that said if you use attractive wood the box will have an inherent beauty from the material used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also need to consider the box bottom. Again the simplest option here would be to cut a rectangle or square of wood, hardboard or plywood and just glue it to the edges of the four-sided box frame that you made previously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But again this is considered ugly by many people (particularly where plywood is used) and most box makers hide the bottom by insetting it into grooves in the sides. However, forming the needed groove or rebate/rabbet requires further tools, and some experience to do well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could get away with just sawing a smaller piece of wood that is exactly sized to the hole in the four sides and simply glueing this in place. Not the strongest option but can be strong enough, particularly for smaller boxes or where the box is not intended to take heavy contents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T18:03:30.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1912" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-29T18:11:33.177" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-06-29T18:11:33.177" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T18:11:33.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1913" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-29T18:11:33.177" Score="0" Body="Techniques related to making wooden boxes." OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-06-29T18:11:33.177" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T18:11:33.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1894" CreationDate="2015-06-29T19:22:20.820" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can draw straight lines, you can make a perfect right angle using a compass - see this simple diagram:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FXTo3.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Draw straight line (1), then parts of a circle (2) and (3) - as long as they are centered on the same line and overlap, their exact distance doesn't matter. Join the two points A and B where they intersect with straight line (4). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You now have two lines at a perfect right angle... and you should be able to use them as a reference to make a straight line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drawing an accurate circle is as simple as putting a pin at the center, a string with a loop at each end with one loop around the pin and the other around the tip of a pencil. The larger the scale on which you do this, the smaller the error will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T19:22:20.820" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1793" CreationDate="2015-06-29T19:34:20.633" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a super simple jig like this, 1 3/4&quot; shouldn't be a problem at all with a decent blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KsWkh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;circle jig&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wwgoa.com/content/uploads/2015/01/circle-template.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.wwgoa.com/content/uploads/2015/01/circle-template.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T19:34:20.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1899" CreationDate="2015-06-29T22:03:04.627" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You mentioned a few requirements:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;suitable for soldering&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;suitable for writing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;less than $50&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have several options for a soldering table. The anti-static laminate ones I used in college looked just as good when I worked in the computer repair shop on campus as they must have when they were brand new. As long as you don't touch the tip of your soldering iron directly to the surface, you're not going to burn the table. In my experience, dripping solder cools and solidifies immediately upon contact with laminate, and brushes off easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also seen soldering tables with MDF tops that took a lot of abuse from hundreds of students over the decades, but they were still in reasonably good shape despite some &quot;character.&quot; I'm pretty sure the tops were intended to be replaceable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you plan to do a lot of soldering, you may want to consider a surface that can be refinished, or design your table with a sturdy flat subsurface and an easily-replaceable top surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if soldering isn't going to be your main activity on this table, you can also lay a board or mat on top of the table anytime you pull out your soldering iron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pretty much any surface can be made into a writing surface if you're writing in a notepad, but if you're talking about laying a piece of paper directly on the surface, that can sometimes be an iffy proposition. Personally, I wouldn't give this requirement much weight unless you're talking about building a drafting table. Pencils work great on smooth surfaces, but a surface with a little texture works better for ballpoint pens than a perfectly smooth surface. If you've ever tried signing your name on a piece of paper on a very smooth surface, you know it can be an exercise in futility. Of course, if your material or surface is too soft, you can end up etching the surface when you write on top of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your budget gives you a lot of options on both the new and secondhand markets: MDF, hardwood-veneer plywood, laminate, or even solid, reasonably hard hardwood if you can find a local lumber mill. In terms of selecting an appropriate species of solid wood, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/807/what-minimum-level-of-hardness-on-the-janka-scale-is-appropriate-for-a-desk-to&quot;&gt;What minimum level of hardness (on the Janka scale) is appropriate for a desk top?&lt;/a&gt;. You may even be able to find some appropriate material at garage sales, on craigslist, etc. If you have a university nearby, you may be able to find a lab table from a chemistry lab. If you have a Habitat for Humanity ReStore nearby, you may be able to find granite or laminate countertop material pretty cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A previous version of your question also mentioned sheet metal, but regular steel rusts if not sealed, and stainless steel and aluminum are very expensive. Also, thin metal will dent easily. Thicker, more dent-resistant metal is even more expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You didn't mention what plans you have, if any, for finishing, but a durable varnish such as polyurethane will also help protect your table from abuse from soldering and writing, as well as any spills. It will also help protect against minor dents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T00:51:11.517" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1917" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-30T00:44:57.993" Score="7" ViewCount="2240" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a cheap hand plane at a garage sale. All the parts were there and the sole appeared to be in excellent condition. Then I noticed the handle was cracking in several connected places. The handle is still in one piece but at some point in the foreseeable future the handle is likely to snap and break completely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would have left it there but he told me I could have it for 2$ after I showed him the damage. If nothing else I have some spare parts for my current plane set or the makings of an infill plane. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, like I mentioned earlier, the break is not complete and I'm sure I could theoretically use it in its damaged state for a while. I can just imagine though it breaking and slicing my hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the handle salvageable or should I just get a new one? I had a plan of forcing the break and fixing it with glue to make it one solid piece again. I don't know if that would be any better that the cracked state it is already in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jcYVD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cracked/Breaking handle&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figure &lt;em&gt;worst&lt;/em&gt; case is that I will glue it and it will become a push stick handle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T00:53:17.700" LastActivityDate="2015-11-26T14:24:08.733" Title="Is a broken handle on a hand plane fixable?" Tags="|plane|tool-repair|handle|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1917" CreationDate="2015-06-30T00:57:01.627" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might be able to finish breaking the tote apart and glue or epoxy it back together, but personally I would just replace the tote altogether. There should just be one long screw you can unscrew to remove it. Use the old one as a template for the new one, then discard the old one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you think the plane has antique value, you can keep the old tote.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T00:57:01.627" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1917" CreationDate="2015-06-30T01:34:47.133" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently made a replacement tote for a hand plane.  It wasn't perfect, but here's what I did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most difficult part for me was drilling a straight hole of the necessary length to accommodate the bolt that goes down the length of the tote.  If you have a drill press, this will be easy.  If not, make sure you have a long drill bit, and be prepared to throw away a few false starts.  Drill perpendicular to the grain.  If you make the hole slightly oversized, you'll have a little wiggle room when it comes to the angle of the bottom of the tote.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you drill the hole, use the top and bottom of the hole to align your existing tote, and trace around it with a marker or soft pencil.  Cut close to the line with a coping saw or jigsaw, then use rasps and files to refine the shape.  Once you're close to the final shape, figure out how much you need to countersink the top of the bolt hole.  You probably want to start shallow and dial it in slowly.  If you make it too deep, the bolt will bottom out in the casting and you'll have to stack washers in order to secure the tote properly.  With the bolt loosely tightened you'll be able to see any adjustment you need to make to the sole of the tote.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some totes have a bolt hole in the toe, while others have a pin.  If yours has a bolt hole, eyeball it as close as you can after you get the bottom of the tote at the right angle.  If it doesn't line up perfectly, you can bore the hole out a little bigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to be aware of is that you'll probably want stock that's closer to a full 1&quot; thick instead of the 3/4&quot; typical for surfaced wood.  I made mine from 3/4&quot;, and it's slightly narrow, so I'm not sure how comfortable it will be for extended use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T01:34:47.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1899" CreationDate="2015-06-30T02:43:57.297" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'd prefer something that I could get for under 50 USD or so for the area specified.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best surface I can think of that fits in your budget is tempered hardboard, a.k.a. masonite. It offers a smooth, durable surface that's cheap enough to replace if necessary. In my area, you can buy a 4'x8' sheet of 3/4&quot; MDF for around $35, and a sheet of 3/16&quot; tempered hardboard for around $15.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T02:43:57.297" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1917" CreationDate="2015-06-30T02:52:24.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My recommendation isn't as fancy as the other two, but this is coming from a cheap guy that likes to keep things going without too much work.  I would take black electrical tape and wrap the whole grip.  It's cheap and will like give you quite a bit of use before it give up the ghost.  When the handle does finally break the tape should give you some protection by keeping the pieces together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T02:52:24.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1899" CreationDate="2015-06-30T09:12:42.467" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I would prefer some kind of laminate but I'm afraid it will be melted if I have a soldering accident. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is a valid concern, even high-temperature laminates intended for kitchen use will only withstand very hot pans for a moment before scorching or bubbling, and the tip of a soldering iron will often be considerably hotter than this (although this does depend on the type of iron and solder being used).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think if you want to go with laminate for your top, for looks and costs reasons, that you have two main routes you could consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make your desk large enough that soldering takes place off to one side where you'll never be writing;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make a lift-on/lift-off temporary work surface that you put into place when soldering and rest against the wall or slip under the bed when not soldering.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the second option here, in order for this temporary surface not to move around I recommend you make a type of &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1321/whats-a-bench-hook/&quot;&gt;bench hook&lt;/a&gt;. Conventionally the stop on the underside of one of these is quite stout, but I would recommend you make one with the stop slim and narrow so that the edge doesn't project too far and dig into your stomach when you're leaning over to work. Here's a photo of the stop on a bench hook for desk use that I completed recently made with this in mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0qdIU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Desk bench hook, underside&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to what material to make this from, you could just use an offcut of the same laminate of course, but I would recommend instead that you use a piece of unfinished plywood (sanded smooth but without any varnish or other coating on it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bare wood is slightly 'grippy' and this makes a good work surface for small, light parts so that they don't slip around as easily as on a plastic laminate or coating of varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And while the bare wood surface of plywood &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; scorch if the tip of the iron touches it, all this will release is wood smoke. With laminate or varnish/lacquer the smoke can be quite noxious and could be slightly toxic as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T09:12:42.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1917" CreationDate="2015-06-30T10:27:41.520" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;However, like I mentioned earlier, the break is not complete and I'm sure I could theoretically use it in its damaged state for a while. I can just imagine though it breaking and slicing my hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you're right to be concerned because a hand plane will sometimes be subjected to considerable forces in use (when encountering switching grain or a knot for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously you have two options here: repair and replacement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making a new tote is actually not that hard given the right equipment and it makes a great little project for the workshop; guides on how to do this are easily found online, some including dimensional drawings to guide exact shaping. However, I'm a big fan of repairing where possible so I would suggest you at least try a repair first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repairs on broken plane totes and knobs can actually be very easily done in some cases and, perhaps surprisingly, the handles are no weaker than when new. This is even if only glue is used for the repair, although further reinforcement is easily done and can result in a truly unbreakable handle (see Pinning below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your plan to force the break would be exactly the way I would have recommended you go here. If it doesn't easily break you'll get a very good idea of just how strong the tote is as it stands! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think your first step though should be to strip or scrape off the remaining finish to get a proper look at the extent of the cracks and if there are any more lurking under the remaining finish. While you're at it you should remove the finish from the knob so that when it comes time to re-finish you'll do both and they'll match. At a guess the finish on the knob will be in fairly poor shape so it should come off anyway!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming the handle does break neatly you simply need to spread wood glue and apply clamp pressure to firmly clamp the parts together, ensuring correct alignment. Because of the odd shape of a tote you may want to build a glueing jig to help with alignment. Here's one simple method:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vvLG4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tote glueing jig&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; don't do too many dry runs. The fractured surface of split wood is easily damaged and even one splinter out of place can prevent the parts coming together neatly and forming a strong joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if you &lt;em&gt;can't&lt;/em&gt; get the tote to break using any force you're comfortable applying you can still reinforce this in a couple of ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;getting glue to penetrate into the crack;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pinning with thin brass rod or paperclip wire.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For security I would suggest you use both these methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Glue&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For the glue in this case you'll want to use epoxy for a number of reasons, one of the main ones being that epoxy is a gap-filling adhesive so no clamping is required to close the cracks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need your epoxy of course, which should be a slower-setting type (15 minutes at least), also a heat gun or hairdrier. You can thin epoxy to make it more penetrant, using alcohol or acetone, but it's better to reduce viscosity using heat as this doesn't affect final strength as thinning can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First step is to pre-heat the joint with the drier or heat gun. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now mix your epoxy as normal and spread it over the cracks, then give it a blast of heat. You'll see that it will become very liquid and will naturally sink into the cracks anyway, but in addition to this as the wood cools it will draw the glue deeper into the cracks. This is why you want to use a slow-setting epoxy, as you need to ensure the glue is still not set when this happens. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apply more epoxy as needed so the cracks appear full of glue and then put it aside for it to partly set. You want to wait for the epoxy to get to a sort of rubbery consistency, when it's very easy to scrape off the excess. Use the side edge of a chisel or the back of a knife for this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now leave it to fully cure before you do any further work on it. Wait at least a full day, but 48 hours or longer would not be a bad idea. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pinning&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Now to pin the joint, first you must carefully pick the directions you want to pin and then drill carefully right through the tote; you want the pins to cross any cracks. &lt;em&gt;Be careful to note where the fixing screw goes so any pins don't intersect it&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are two suggestions for how you might pin a cracked tote:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UwxhK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Suggested tote pin orientation&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To glue this sort of pin you can use epoxy as well, but superglue can work quite well too. Be sure to scuff the surface of the wire with abrasive paper or Scotchbrite to help ensure a good glue bond to the metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a chisel handle repair that I pinned in place in this way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lIyX8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pinned chisel repair&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T10:27:41.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1917" CreationDate="2015-06-30T14:34:44.130" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I draw the line at repairing rosewood totes. That one being not rosewood, I'd not bother.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made a series of totes for planes size 4-1/2 and up from walnut:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ij1svm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Some totes I made&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="823" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T14:43:09.140" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T14:43:09.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1925" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-30T14:58:00.443" Score="8" ViewCount="4772" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently trying to make a cylinder out of chipboard(the cardboard that notebooks are typically made out of). However, whenever I try to bend it, parts of the chipboard start to tear. How do I bend chipboard without tearing it apart?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="838" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T14:37:01.940" Title="How to bend chipboard into a cylinder without tearing it apart?" Tags="|materials|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1907" CreationDate="2015-06-30T15:43:29.187" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although others have mentioned the butt joint as simple, I don't recommend it for beginners (unless you are using a biscuit jig), because due to its extreme simplicity alignment is very hard to get perfect. I like to start with a lap joint, which because it has an internal stop simplifies alignment to the point that all alignment can be done with one hand (if not large/heavy), and clamping is simpler. A lap joint does require a table saw, but you don't always need a dado head or to double cut. You can get a basic lap joint with just the width of your blade. Admittedly this is does not produce much of a lip, but it makes a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="277" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T15:43:29.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1925" CreationDate="2015-06-30T15:47:58.857" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to run with the assumption that you're referring to paperboard or a thin hardboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of the paperboard as being like a sausage: it has a skin on it that keeps the good bits in, but if you bend it too far, that skin will tear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scoring hardboard&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Your best option (steam would probably damage the board, as Matt mentioned) would be to score the board at intervals. This will allow you to control where the skin breaks. From here, you'll probably want to coat the gaps with glue or something to prevent them from becoming easy points of failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will mean that your cylinder will not be perfect, it will be somewhat angled at each score line. A smaller distance between scores will help hide this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Another option: laminated layers of posterboard/thin paperboard&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If this doesn't work for you, you could try laminating instead: use a thin paperboard that's easy to use. Make a cylinder with that (You probably want to use a center form to get the diameter right, try circles made of wood). Then glue the outside and roll another piece of paperboard over that, adding successive layers until it's the desired thickness. This lamination method is likely a better option for you: it will be more durable than simple hardboard and will be under less stress. Additionally, you can overlap seams so there won't be a single weak point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're using thin paperboard rather than posterboard, I would leave a small gap at the final seam and use epoxy to give it a secure seal that's unlikely to peel away from the cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="180" LastEditDate="2015-07-01T14:37:01.940" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T14:37:01.940" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1928" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1929" CreationDate="2015-06-30T18:16:57.703" Score="12" ViewCount="1941" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is the example that got me thinking:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wsIn0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How could they inset those pieces? I examined one of these in real life and it was very convincing. I couldn't find seams or joints or anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="841" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T18:44:49.520" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T02:26:04.583" Title="How are seamless, inset secret compartments created?" Tags="|drawer-construction|boxes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1928" CreationDate="2015-06-30T18:29:06.857" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is what's called a bandsaw box, and this particular one was probably created using roughly the steps below, which are slightly different from those for a &lt;a href=&quot;https://drunkenwoodworker.com/how-make-bandsaw-box&quot;&gt;more typical bandsaw box&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cut off front and back of log&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cut out outer shape of drawer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cut off back of drawer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cut out compartments&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;glue back of drawer back on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;glue front of log onto front of drawer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;glue back of log back onto log&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears there's also a secret compartment in the bottom of the large 3-compartment drawer. That secret compartment was probably cut out after step 2, then the secret drawer itself was created using a similar process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cut off front and back of secret drawer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cut out compartment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;glue front and back onto secret drawer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that in step 1, you typically don't cut off the front of the log or blank if you are going to have one or more drawers that are visible from the front; instead you cut off the front after you cut out the drawer(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may have noticed from the sequences of steps above that there are basically 4 cuts that you can mix and match in different orders to come up with pretty much any bandsaw box design: cut off the back, cut off the front, cut out the drawer(s), cut out the compartment(s) in each drawer. Once you know this, you can also look at any bandsaw box and work backwards to figure out how it was made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I couldn't find seams or joints or anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the bandsaw blade's kerf is so small, it's possible to close up any entry cuts or other seams so that they are practically invisible. You can also strategically make cuts with the grain to make them even less visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-07-01T02:26:04.583" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T02:26:04.583" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1925" CreationDate="2015-06-30T18:52:25.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For paperboard running the material over a hard edge with a little tension will put some curvature in the board.   The more you pull the board over an edge like the side of a bench or table saw, the tighter the radius of the curve will be.   Depending on the size, you can keep going until the two edges meet up, forming your cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="837" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T18:52:25.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1925" CreationDate="2015-06-30T19:00:20.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another approach would be to place a flexible but firm backer on both sides of the paperboard.  A thin plastic sheet from a folder or package would work.  Clamp them together, and then bend the 'sandwiched' materials, which would keep the paperboard from folding.  join the edges when they meet, and then the paperboard will hold its shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="837" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T19:00:20.260" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1932" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-01T02:16:15.413" Score="8" ViewCount="10839" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I was taught, a scroll saw is a table top saw, with a thin blade used for scrolling work.  Though I've also heard these tools referred to as jigsaws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VZREy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;scroll saw&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manufacturers also offer portable saws, which are designed for making similar intricate cuts.  These tools seem to be know as either jigsaws, or sabre (saber) saws.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rPPrg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sabre/jig saw&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To muddy the waters further, scrolling sabre saws are also available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Bz1P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;scrolling sabre saw&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any differences between sabre and jig saws, or are they all the same? Does the blade being used in the tool make a difference? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="504" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2019-02-06T16:56:28.900" LastActivityDate="2019-02-06T21:34:51.033" Title="Are there any differences between jigsaws, sabre saws, or scroll saws?" Tags="|power-tools|terminology|jigsaw|sabre-saw|scroll-saw|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1932" CreationDate="2015-07-01T02:35:33.763" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;As discussed in some of the answers to &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1423/what-is-the-difference-between-a-sabre-saw-and-a-jig-saw&quot;&gt;What is the difference between a sabre saw and a jig saw&lt;/a&gt;, the terminology has been used differently over time. What we call a scroll saw today (a stationary/benchtop tool with the blade fixed at both ends) was commonly called a jigsaw many years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h8fIC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;scroll saw labeled as orbital jigsaw 1&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GyJBJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;scroll saw labeled as orbital jigsaw 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Source: craigslist)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today's handheld jigsaw (with the blade fixed at only one end) was also commonly called a sabre saw, and some manufacturers still do use this name (more on this later).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further adding to the confusion is the Rockwell BladeRunner, which is neither called a scroll saw nor a jigsaw. It looks like a scroll saw but uses jigsaw blades that are installed upside-down (compared to a handheld jigsaw).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XrJnt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rockwell BladeRunner&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rockwelltools.com/en-US/BladeRunner_Wall_Mount.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The term &quot;scroll cut&quot; or &quot;scrolling cut&quot; is used generally to refer to a curved cut. Curved cuts made on a scroll saw, jigsaw/sabre saw, or even a bandsaw can all be referred to as scroll cuts. Thinner blades (front to back) allow you to cut tighter curves, and some such jigsaw blades are advertised as scroll blades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, the &quot;scrolling&quot; feature of the pictured scrolling sabre saw appears to be the knob that lets you rotate the blade. Old advertisements for sabre saws/jigsaws also picture this knob, but this feature seems to be somewhat less common on modern-day jigsaws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LtS5M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;vintage sabre saw ad&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00FKTWV4E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a somewhat dubious &lt;a href=&quot;http://woodworking.about.com/od/toolsequipment/qt/JigsawSabreSaw.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;about.com article&lt;/a&gt; which claims handheld jigsaws with this blade-rotating feature were named sabre saws and those without the feature were called jigsaws. Although this seems plausible, the article does not cite any references and the author, who seems to be a hobbyist woodworker and self-proclaimed &quot;woodworking expert,&quot; does not appear to have any credentials which would suggest he is any more a definitive authority on the subject than any other hobbyist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As noted in some of the answers on the previously-linked question, some people also use the term &quot;sabre saw&quot; to refer to a reciprocating saw, but until someone digs up some literature in which a tool manufacturer labels or calls a reciprocating saw a &lt;em&gt;sabre saw&lt;/em&gt;, I think the only reasonable conclusion is that it is incorrect to call a reciprocating saw a sabre saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CDrs6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;reciprocating saw&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dewalt.com/tools/saws-reciprocating-saws-dw311k.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T17:22:15.160" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1894" CreationDate="2015-07-01T07:09:46.510" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to see how it was done 100 years ago without fancy modern tools you should really start with &quot;The Woodwrights Shop&quot; with Roy Underhill it's on PBS and has a lot of content available for streaming. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your specific answer on how to make a square &quot;square&quot; Roy shows a really simple way in the episode &quot;Try Square with Christopher Schwarz&quot; &lt;a href=&quot;http://video.pbs.org/video/2365021524/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://video.pbs.org/video/2365021524/&lt;/a&gt; The square itself is made of wood theirs is really nice but the &quot;Truing&quot; concept shown at 23:07 (mm:ss) could be applied to any 2 pieces of wood at approximately 90 degrees from each other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In it's simplest form pace it on the edge of a table and draw a pencil line. Flip the square over to see how far off it was, use a plane or chisel to remove just enough wood to get it closer. Remember that you only need to remove 1/2 of the visible difference. Then Flip it around and draw another pencil line, etc. Until it is as accurate as you want. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NO MATH!!! Yeah!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="845" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T07:09:46.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1932" CreationDate="2015-07-01T17:27:16.537" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As many posts have mentioned for a number of tools and techniques, the woodworking terminology waters are muddy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your first image is what I would refer to as a scroll saw; however, in the past these were referred to as jig saws. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second two are what I would refer to as jig saws; however, they have also been referred to as saber saws. My understanding is that at some point, the blade of some models of jig saw was made to turn at an angle to the body and that the models with this functionality were referred to as &quot;saber saws.&quot; I'm not sure if there's any merit to that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, a saber saw, while being used interchangeably for a jig saw (the modern handheld meaning) may also be used refer to a reciprocating saw, sometimes called a &quot;Sawzall,&quot; which is actually a trademark; it's like calling adhesive bandages band-aids. This is most likely a misuse of the term and I don't recommend calling a reciprocating saw a saber saw. As Rob mentions, I would be surprised to see one labeled as such by a manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short: there is ambiguity, but in my opinion the surest way to ensure people know which you're referring to would be to call your first image a scroll saw, the second two jig saws, and the following image a reciprocating saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uzbYJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="180" LastEditDate="2015-07-01T21:16:12.493" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T21:16:12.493" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1936" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-30T14:56:07.457" Score="0" ViewCount="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently trying to make a cylinder out of chipboard(the cardboard that notebooks are typically made out of). However, whenever I try to bend it, parts of the chipboard start to tear. How do I bend chipboard without tearing it apart?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Guest" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T07:21:03.877" Title="How to bend chipboard into a cylinder without tearing it apart?" Tags="|materials|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-07-02T07:24:33.350" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1925" CreationDate="2015-06-30T15:39:37.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aside from wetting it, you will have better success (probably) by treating it like wood-bending - provide a tension support on the outside when bending, rather than bending it around a form on the inside. When bending around a form, the outside needs to stretch, so it tears. When bending inside a form the inside compresses - it may wrinkle a bit, but it won't tear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like a sheet of aluminum flashing might make a suitable tension support for stiff cardboard (chipboard has a different connotation over here - oriented strand board, a plywood like substance glued up from chips of wood.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In wood bending both a strap and form are used, commonly.  Here's an image to show the general idea from &quot;Model T forum&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cuTTf.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3334" OwnerDisplayName="Ecnerwal" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T15:39:37.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1938" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1941" CreationDate="2015-07-02T12:07:56.667" Score="11" ViewCount="3981" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got a 20v driver and impact driver set. Never had an impact driver before but I cannot imagine life without it. It makes it &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; hard to split wood by over driving and I love that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I have noticed that on occasion it stops before my screw is fully driven. I, at the time, had 3 inch deck screws that were not self tapping. I ended up putting my weight into the drill to get the screw flush. In the process I would be &quot;fighting&quot; against the drills nature to stop. There is lots of clicking and knocking which is normal as that is how the tool works but is too much a bad thing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this just how I am supposed to be using this? It felt wrong to be doing it and I do not want to ruin the driver. Once I am done with these screws I plan on owning more self tappers which might help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-07-02T15:06:36.043" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T19:54:16.143" Title="Can you overwork an impact driver?" Tags="|tools|power-tools|drilling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1939" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-02T12:52:32.217" Score="4" ViewCount="980" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know &lt;em&gt;how to figure out what timber to buy&lt;/em&gt; for a 45mm x 46mm x 1.6m part. My lumber supplier sells boards in customary units (2x4, 2x6, etc.). Can anyone provide a solid method to work the conversion out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I am interested in this conversion specifically, I want to know the process to convert back and forth between final metric dimensions and the sizes of lumber that are sold at the store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="852" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-07-06T22:55:35.187" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T00:42:24.913" Title="Given final dimensions in mm, how do I choose what dimensional lumber (in customary units) to buy?" Tags="|lumber|wood-selection|wood|measurement|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1939" CreationDate="2015-07-02T15:43:34.020" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The confusion comes from nominal vs. actual dimensions of dimensional lumber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically a solid wood board sold in customary/imperial units is slightly smaller along its thickness and width, the thickness being the smallest dimension. For example, a &quot;2x4&quot; is actually 1.5in x3.5in and a &quot;1x3&quot; is actually 0.75in x 3.5in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To convert from customary units to metric, subtract 1/2in from the thickness and width, then multiply by 25.4 to get millimeters (1 inch = 2.54cm = 25.4mm), and round to the nearest mm. This is called a &quot;soft conversion&quot; according to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.awc.org/helpoutreach/faq/faqFiles/Metric_Lumber_Conv.php&quot;&gt;American Wood Council&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a few common equivalents:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;2x4 = 38x89mm&#xA;2x6 = 38x140mm&#xA;2x8 = 38x184mm&#xA;2x10 = 38x235mm&#xA;2x12 = 38x286mm&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've converted the nominal customary dimensions to actual metric dimensions, you can convert the actual customary length to the actual metric length. If the customary length is expressed in feet, multiply by 12 to get inches. Once you have the length in inches, multiply by 2.54 to get cm, then divide by 100 to get meters (or simply multiply by 0.0254 to convert directly from inches to meters).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to go in the other direction, simply work backwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting with desired final dimensions of 45mm x 46mm x 1.6m, let's convert to nominal customary units:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thickness: 45mm / 25.4mm/in + 0.5in = 2.27in&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Width: 46mm / 25.4mm/in + 0.5in = 2.31in&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Length: 1.6m / 0.0254m/in = 62.99in / 12in/ft = 5.25ft&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the lumber sizes available, you may need to buy either a 3x3 x 6ft or 4x4 x 8ft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another solution is to adjust the dimensions of your finished parts to be slightly smaller so you don't have to resaw or waste so much material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet another solution, especially if you have difficulty finding 3x3s or 4x4s, is to buy, you could buy thinner material such as 2x4s or 1x3s, and laminate (glue) them together. If you can find 3 perfectly flat 1x3s, your finished laminated board will have dimensions of 2.25in x 2.5in--just a hair under your 2.27in x 2.31in preferred size in terms of thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple final tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Because most boards are not straight and flat when you buy them, you should buy slightly oversized (even if laminating) so you can mill them flat and trim them to their final dimensions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Always start with a plan, but leave some extra material that you can trim away &lt;em&gt;as-needed&lt;/em&gt; (not &lt;em&gt;as-planned&lt;/em&gt;) during final dimensioning. You will almost never be able to cut all your parts to final dimensions and have them fit perfectly in the end. Instead, dimension your parts relative to one another, and adjust as necessary as you're cutting the parts. This is called relative dimensioning, and it allows you to make and account for minor mistakes along the way without ruining the final fit of the entire project.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-07-02T15:49:27.433" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T15:49:27.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1938" CreationDate="2015-07-02T16:04:23.890" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's possible to wear out an impact driver, but what you're describing sounds normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The driver will act as a normal drill until it exceeds its &quot;normal driving&quot; capacity, then the internal hammers will engage and you'll hear a whacking/clicking/grinding sound. The sound is similar to that of the clutch when you're using the clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some impact drivers' hammers engage sooner, others later. My Bosch 12v impact driver starts whacking away almost immediately when I drive a screw. But if the impact mode seems to be engaging sooner than usual, it means your battery is probably low on charge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, when your screw displaces wood fibers, those fibers have to go somewhere. If you don't predrill or use self-tapping screws, you end up compressing them into the surrounding fibers, and this is what sometimes causes wood to split. Predrilling or using self-tapping screws will reduce the amount of compression necessary, relieving some of the resistance as you drive the screw and, in turn, will increase your battery life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T16:04:23.890" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1932" CreationDate="2015-07-03T02:05:14.077" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/users/49/rob&quot;&gt;rob&lt;/a&gt; does a good job of covering the overall use of the tools. I find these discussions interesting since it is possible to be right but have different answers. All of these types of saws function in the same way. Some are better at dealing with intricate work and some are designed for rough jobs. It does not help that the names of these tools could be interchangeable (reciprocating saw being the worst offender of vague tool name). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scroll Saw&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have always understood the first tool you show as a scroll saw. It is known to have a blade fixed on both ends and is, typically, used for intricate work. The unit is fixed (not hand held or particularity mobile) and you move your work piece around the table. Similar to a band-saw, the blade and work piece are in cleaner view than a hand held jigsaw. I have always understood these to cut at 90 degrees given how the tool is constructed. This is by design since the arm does not rotate.  Some have tilting tables to make up for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Jigsaw&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I consider the jigsaw to be the middle ground between a reciprocating saw and a scroll saw. The jigsaw is represented by the other pictures you have shown. It's a smaller reciprocating saw and not fixed like a scroll saw. You can use a variety of blades of varying sizes and material designates. The base on many modern jigsaws pivot to allow angles to be cut. The mobility is arguably its greatest asset. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I tried to cover the grey area between sabre saws and jigsaws, I'm with rob in that I do not think reciprocating saws fall into this category. In short sabre saw was a common term to describe a jigsaw and appears to have evolved in name. Older woodworkers still refer to jigsaws as sabre saws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reciprocating saws are meant for rough work to get the job done quickly. I have used them in demolition for studs and nails. I own one today for help with pallets. They don't generally have a place in fine woodworking.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pictures!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real reason I wanted to post this is I found more old ads that might explain the evolution of tools and terms. The first I found interesting since it is for a scroll saw from 1880's. Besides being foot pedaled it looks much the same as its powered modern descendant. I have not found any conflicting information as to this tool's name over time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XQnup.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Scroll Saw&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image From AtticPaper&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;More on the sabre saw/jigsaw mix up&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xcUI3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Jig/Sabre Saw&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3YLVp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;tool label&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Images from Kijiji&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this on sale at Kijiji. The great thing about it is that it is labelled as both a jigsaw &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; sabre saw. I could see this as an attempt to remove the potential confusion between tools' names but that is just speculation. I still think the fight is over and both side are right for this one!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Recipro Saw&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the earlier models I was able to locate of a &quot;Recipro Saw&quot;. Specifically the &quot;Skil Model 577 Recipro Saw&quot;. &lt;em&gt;Very&lt;/em&gt; similar design to the modern reciprocating saws we see now. Hand placement is relatively the same as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://thumbs.worthpoint.com/jro5p_NNjwMC4rIRVM7ZG2SqZD0=/400x0/images/images2/1/0211/04/1_8c934fd4636e83ab043a50c69ef8cd08.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Recipro Saw&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image Source: eBay&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;In conclusion&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These tools all function similarly. Each is better suited for certain work and woodworkers can easily have a bias towards one over the other. As I have seen here at WW countless times is that people will recognize the same tool under a different name but they are not &lt;em&gt;necessarily&lt;/em&gt; wrong. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I didn't really cover it, the blades are what can make the biggest difference when it comes to how tight the angles are that you can make, how clean the cut is and in some cases depth of cut. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T01:08:13.403" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1944" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-04T03:32:47.287" Score="9" ViewCount="1727" Body="&lt;p&gt;I decided to make my own cutting board out of a nice piece of black walnut I came across.  It looked great before I added oil, but after I added hemp oil to one side, the whole board turned greenish.  I then added coconut oil and beewax on the other side and it also turned green!  The only clue I have to this mystery is that the wood (while it feels and looks very dry) was only felled from the forest about 3 months ago and stored indoors.  Could the problem be wet, uncured wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Pete" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-07-04T12:36:38.053" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T15:23:20.113" Title="cutting board turned green!" Tags="|finishing|wood-drying|cutting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1944" CreationDate="2015-07-04T09:33:28.277" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know why the board turned green or greenish, but I think I can definitively state that the wood isn't properly dried, or &lt;em&gt;seasoned&lt;/em&gt;, and shouldn't have been made into a cutting board yet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a rule you work wood 'wet' — also called green wood, not because it is green in colour — or you use it after it is fully seasoned, which is either after a long time drying naturally (air-dried wood) or a much shorter time being dried in a type of hotbox or oven (kiln-dried wood).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T09:33:28.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1944" CreationDate="2015-07-04T12:31:58.687" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would interesting to see a picture of the board to help diagnose what the problem is.  However, like Graphus said it is very unlikely that the boards have been properly dried after only three months without using a kiln, especially if it was stacked indoors.  Most wood properly &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/636/what-does-stickering-wood-mean&quot;&gt;stacked and stickered&lt;/a&gt; will take at least a year to air dry.  Moisture meters are a great tool to help discover when wood has reached a good dry state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now why it actually turned green, you didn't say if the green was immediate or if it took a little while, but I get the impression it was pretty quick because one side turned green before the other side even got it's finish.  I've seen many walnut boards that can have a rainbow of colors from green to pink and purple.  This is generally from older trees that started to decompose in the middle.  Fungus and bacteria can do all kinds of colorful things to wood, and by sealing it with a nice finish might be just enough to make the colors pop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course if the green came a bit later then it is likely that the moisture content help a fungus grow.  If the former (color just popped) then a good seal should be enough, if the later, I probably wouldn't use it to prepare food.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T15:23:20.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1947" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1949" CreationDate="2015-07-04T16:08:21.607" Score="12" ViewCount="3528" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently thinking about buying a band-saw.  While searching in my price range, I found that some models offer a single speed, others 2 and some even 3 speeds.  I'm fairly new to band-saws and I wonder what's the purpose of multiple speed.  Is it a useful feature?  When should I change speed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on doing mostly re-sawing and a bit of curves.  I currently have no plans for metalworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastActivityDate="2022-09-08T11:37:53.740" Title="What are the advantages of band-saws with multiple speeds?" Tags="|tools|power-tools|band-saw|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1947" CreationDate="2015-07-04T18:12:10.357" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The primary reason for speed adjustment on bandsaws is to accommodate different materials (mainly metal). That said, dropping the speed down for some operations can stretch the capabilities of an underpowered machine further. For example, if you're resawing particularly thick or dense wood with a 1.5 hp machine (or high-TPI blade), reducing the blade speed will reduce the power needed for the motor to keep the blade moving, allowing you to make the cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In reality, it's not something that gets used very often, especially since most bandsaws require changing the belt to a separate gear to change the speed, and that's a bit of a chore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T18:12:10.357" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1950" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1955" CreationDate="2015-07-04T19:47:14.940" Score="4" ViewCount="302" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an existing deck with sistered 2x12 drop beams and joists cantilevered over top.  The 2x12 current extend ~12&quot; beyond the 'outside' post.  The span is significantly less than 12'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are considering extending the deck ~2'.  This would yield a beam that extends ~3' beyond the outermost post.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lots of information exists specifying the extension of joints beyond the beam, but I am not seeing anything describing beam extension beyond a post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have experience with this or a specification?  Before doing anything I want to know if I'll be digging another footer...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="863" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T13:16:54.533" Title="Drop beam span beyond post" Tags="|framing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1944" CreationDate="2015-07-05T12:46:45.280" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe @bowlturner is on the right track for the greenish color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spalted wood, wood that has been slightly decomposed by fungal activity, is often bluish or greenish - ex: blue pine.  Fungal growth only occurs in moist wood.  So the wood was not allowed to dry, drying was retarded and the fungus &#xA;got a foothold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spalting&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spalting&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If bowlturner does as his name implies he's probably made bowls from spalted wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="650" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T12:46:45.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1952" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-07-05T19:59:55.353" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-07-05T19:59:55.353" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T19:59:55.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1953" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-07-05T19:59:55.353" Score="0" Body="This refers to picture frames, not to be confused with carpentry and framing of buildings. " OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2015-07-06T12:57:10.867" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T12:57:10.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1947" CreationDate="2015-07-06T10:29:58.817" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lowering the blade speed (by changing pulleys) will increase the force keeping the blade moving. This means you are less likely to stall the engine when you demand more power or the blade binds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T10:29:58.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1950" CreationDate="2015-07-06T13:16:54.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering that it appears that a Douglas Fir 2&quot; x 12&quot; can span a 17' section being braced on both ends and 24&quot; apart, you shouldn't have any problem with 1/4 of that hanging unsupported.  However, making a brace that supports part of the overhang with a 6&quot;x 6&quot; at 45 degrees could significantly improve the support.  so the cross beam might reach 2' out along the 4' overhang.  The span tables in the pdf below can help.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many places actually need a deck plan approved and inspected after it is done to make sure it meets code.  At the very least they can be consulted beforehand to prevent any major issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.msrlumber.org/spantables.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.msrlumber.org/spantables.pdf&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T13:16:54.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1894" CreationDate="2015-07-06T19:05:37.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like Roy Underhill. I haven't watched that episode, but if you want to check a homemade square for squareness, it seems like the easiest way would be to take four pieces of material that are the same, for instance 4 6&quot; sections of free paint stirrers from your local big box store, lay them over lapping in a square, put a nail through each corner and shift the frame till the diagonals measure the same. You square things up in a similar manner in carpentry. If you want to know if something is square, you measure the diagonals and adjust till they're the same. When they are, it's square. You could do this with the aforementioned paint stirrers or anything the same width/depth/height and when it's square, you could check your homemade square against it. No math involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="232" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T19:05:37.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1957" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1960" CreationDate="2015-07-06T20:42:11.680" Score="8" ViewCount="11877" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a chest of drawers out of reclaimed barn wood.  For the drawers I've used 1/2&quot; sanded ply for the sides and 1/4&quot; for the bottoms.  They're pretty darn smooth but I'd like to put a clear coat on them to protect them.  I've read that poly can cause undesirable odors so I guess I should avoid that.  What about water based poly or shellac?  Seems it's pretty much 50/50 on whether people even finish them at all (vs. unfinished/unprotected) but I'm looking for some practical advice on the topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="868" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-03-02T15:48:52.193" LastActivityDate="2016-09-18T03:39:37.943" Title="What kind of finish should I use inside dresser drawers?" Tags="|finishing|furniture|plywood|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1958" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-06T22:30:12.403" Score="4" ViewCount="2323" Body="&lt;p&gt;America does more &quot;stick-built&quot; construction than some countries, since we retained more of our forests longer (old-growth forests are a vanishing breed, but we haven't yet killed off the softwoods). So it's been important for us to have standardized construction-lumber sizes... which are misleadingly land inconsistently labelled but which are still based on inches and feet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Elsewhere things have gone somewhat differently. For example,  the UK has lost almost all its woodlands, which may be part of the reason folks there are now more likely to build in brick. And they were smart enough to go metric long ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hence my question: &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; there standard construction-lumber sizes outside the US, and what are they? Or is the US exporting enough pine that our pseudo-2x4's and 4'x8' plywood have become international standards despite the inconvenience?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I'm explicitly neither assuming there are international standards, nor that there aren't, because I simply don't know. If this starts turning into a complicated/long list, of course it can be pulled to community wiki or wherever... but let's see if there are more than three or so sets of data before assuming that's needed.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;EDIT:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess the question I was really trying to ask was whether the metric universe had standardized a set of common off-the-shelf dimensions across countries that would serve as an equivalent of the American sizes for purposes of plan dimensions -- if an American shed is mostly 2x4's on 16&quot; centers with 1/4&quot; 4'x8' sheathing (some of those being real measurements and some nominal), is there a well-accepted set of metric dimensions would replace those elsewhere to build the equivalent shed, and are those subject to the same kind of inconsistency?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An answer of &quot;almost; there are three such systems battling for dominance and they are...&quot; or &quot;not really, everyone has their own set of numbers influenced by their own historical construction practices&quot; or &quot;actually, there IS an international standard known as...&quot; would then qualify as a clearly acceptable answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I say, the real question is whether we can translate something between metric and American in any reasonable way, or if we just have to count on everyone making their own adjustments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Let's see, in stones/furlongs/fortnights that would be...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2015-07-10T07:05:15.683" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T13:07:12.603" Title="Lumber size standards outside the US?" Tags="|measurement|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2015-07-13T10:07:17.967" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1958" CreationDate="2015-07-07T08:30:12.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Australia, most framing is 90 x 45, 90 x 35, 70 x 45, or 70 x 35 mm. Floor joists are 190 or 120 x 35 (or will someone correct me on that; they do seem to vary...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By 4' x 8' plywood do you mean composite beams, like used over windows etc.? There's plenty of that in use, I think mostly 42 or 58 mm think and in heights of 90, 110, 130, 150, 170, 200, 250, 300, and 400 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think I've ever bought north American wood in Australia other than 2nd hand Oregon that came over many years ago (before we figured out how to grow &lt;em&gt;pinus radiata&lt;/em&gt; in plantations — which, I gather, we now do rather well). Hmm, there's a thought: do yanks call that nice soft redwood stuff 'Oregon', or is that the same silliness as us Aussies calling our bedsheets 'Manchester', and risible from your point of view?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T08:30:12.287" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1957" CreationDate="2015-07-07T09:18:03.650" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Major re-write as I missed that you were asking specifically about the drawers themselves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Seems it's pretty much 50/50 on whether people even finish them at all &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The traditional practice was for drawer bodies, and in fact the entire interior of a chest of drawers, not to be finished in any way. There are possibly multiple reasons for this, one of which might simply have been penny-pinching! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But one reason that is mentioned in some older books is that the contents of the drawers might stick to any finish in warm and/or damp weather. This is not likely with any finish that dries hard however, and particularly not if a very thin coating is applied (i.e. not enough finish to form a distinct film on the surface of the wood).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've read that poly can cause undesirable odors &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted to use oil-based poly you could wait for a full cure before inserting the drawers. One of the indicators of a full cure is that the finish has no odour with your nose right at the surface. This might take as long as a month though!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What about water based poly or shellac? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think shellac would be the better choice between these two because it's so easy to make a very dilute version, which would provide just that bit of protection that you might be looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An advantage of using oil-based poly over waterbased poly is that the former can easily be thinned to a &quot;wiping consistency&quot; (note: can still be applied by brush) just by adding additional spirits, while with waterbased poly apparently you shouldn't thin them heavily with water as it interferes with how they dry and harden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Waterbased varnishes have one other potential disadvantage worth nothing, as with all finishes that are based on water there is the possibility that the first coat of waterbased poly will &quot;raise the grain&quot;, that is, swell the surface wood fibres and make your previously super-smooth sanded surface rough again. There are a number of ways of dealing with this but probably the best is to deliberately raise the grain in advance by wiping over with water. After the wood has dried you &lt;em&gt;lightly&lt;/em&gt; sand to remove the raised grain. Some users do this two and even three times to ensure that when their finish goes on the wood it will remain smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2015-07-07T20:09:59.450" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T20:09:59.450" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1958" CreationDate="2015-07-07T15:47:54.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lumber (fir and pine, or &quot;needle wood, unspecified&quot;) in Germany doesn't come from the US as far as I know (rather local growth or from e.g. Sweden). France has &lt;strong&gt;huge&lt;/strong&gt; supplies, too. The entire department Landes is one big pine forest, more or less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;24x44 and 24x48 and 48x48 (approx. 2x2in) are common, also 40x60 and 60x80 or any combination of 40, 60, 80, 100, 120, and 140mm.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;x160 is widely available in thickness greater than 80.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;24x74 and 44x94 (approx. 1.7x3.7in) are common for some odd reason.&#xA;17x36 is being sold, but not very common, also 70x70 and 90x90 are being sold, and I've seen 24x40mm as well as 34x54.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Available lengths are almost always 2000 or 3000mm, rarely 2500mm, and &lt;em&gt;very rarely&lt;/em&gt; something different. Length is rather a guideline, however (not only because of wood shrinkage), though you usually get a bit more, rarely less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, you can get hardwood (almost always birch, rarely oak or chestnut) in every combination of rectangular size (and round, too) in steps of 5 millimeters up to about 60mm, either 1000mm or 2000mmm long, sometimes 2200mm.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Some home centers will shamelessly cheat you on that, however. I've recently bought what I took for &quot;1 meter&quot; 20x20 hardwood, which turned out being 90cm long. Ask me how I found out. Surprise.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When I went back to complain, I was shown the tiny print which indeed says &quot;900mm&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="135" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T15:47:54.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1958" CreationDate="2015-07-07T19:17:33.340" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the UK, sizes of planed pine (P.S.E) is based on old imperial sizes but marked and sold in metric (mm). The sizes are usually actual dimensions but sometimes are somewhat nominal (i.e. size before planing)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's some sizes I found in my pile of offcuts ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;label 18 x 33. actual 18 x 33&lt;br&gt;&#xA;label 50 x 22. actual 46.5 x 21&lt;br&gt;&#xA;label 16 x 46. actual 14 x 44&lt;br&gt;&#xA;label 92 x 10.5 actual 92 x 10.5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lengths are mostly multiples of 300mm (close to 1 foot) e.g. 1800, 2400 etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An interesting source of information about UK timber is &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Timber_basics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;diyfaq&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although Britain lost almost all its woodland over the millenia, in the last 100 years the Forestry Commission carried out reforestation of large parts of the UK. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.forestry.gov.uk/pdf/FCRP015.pdf/$FILE/FCRP015.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Forestry Commission - Sitka Spruce&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="158" LastEditorUserId="158" LastEditDate="2015-07-08T09:24:16.077" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T09:24:16.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1963" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1965" CreationDate="2015-07-08T01:50:18.940" Score="11" ViewCount="2182" Body="&lt;p&gt;Independent of all the different kinds of surface one can use to shape, clean, and sharpen tools -- and perhaps independent of whether said surface is motorized or not -- I have to admit to being a bit lost as to what grades of abrasive exist in what media which should be used for what part of the task, and so on. &quot;Fine&quot; and &quot;extra fine&quot; seem to be defined differently for every manufacturer or medium, and not all of them give numeric values on the abrasive scale which might make them comparable... and I'm not certain whether 600-grit diamond is really equivalent to 600-grit wet/dry sandpaper on a surface plate and how either compares to any of the natural stones which are referred to only by name..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a table, or rule of thumb, somewhere that would clarify this? Is it really just &quot;go by the numbers and stop when you're satisfied with the edge&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Life was simpler when all I had was a jackknife and a generic pocket stone. Now that I can afford to make decisions, especially between different but equally valid choices,  I sometimes get lost in them!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2021-07-19T21:01:53.137" Title="Sharpening grits -- naming and selection" Tags="|tools|sharpening|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1963" CreationDate="2015-07-08T05:00:08.210" Score="10" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Fine&quot; and &quot;extra fine&quot; seem to be defined differently for every&#xA;  manufacturer or medium&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is partly because each term from Extra Coarse to Ultra Fine represents a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sandpaper#Grit_size_table&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;range of grits&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm not certain whether 600-grit diamond is really equivalent to&#xA;  600-grit wet/dry sandpaper on a surface plate and how either compares&#xA;  to any of the natural stones which are referred to only by name..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One hint is that the stones only referred to by name have well-known grits or grit ranges. Unfortunately, the relative terms such as &quot;Coarse&quot; and &quot;Extra Fine&quot; are sometimes applied to the different grits provided by each of these &quot;named&quot; stones. As a result, one named stone's coarse grit may be equivalent to another stone's fine grit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We're in luck, because Christopher Schwarz wrote an article in which he compiled a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/true-grit-understanding-sharpening-grits&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;list of sharpening products arranged by relative fineness&lt;/a&gt;, based on the abrasive sizes in microns. Note that he includes a disclaimer that he is only working from the advertised grits, not the &lt;em&gt;actual&lt;/em&gt; grits. As Graphus pointed out, the same type of stone in the same grit from multiple manufacturers, and even from the same manufacturer, can vary. However, this is largely inconsequential because it isn't necessary to move through every successive grit when sharpening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with a badly-worn or even misshapen edge, you only need to work through at most 3 or 4 successive grits before honing. Although it's true that it's more efficient not to skip grits, it's a lot more expensive (and more hassle) to deal with a dozen or more grits than it is to work through just a few. So in practice, it doesn't make much difference whether your 600-grit stone is actually closer to 550-grit or 650-grit, because you're most likely going to skip at least a couple hundred grit every step along the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even within &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sandpaper#Grit_size_table&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sandpaper&lt;/a&gt;, there are two different standards--the US CAMI grits, and the European &quot;P&quot; grits--both of which are intended to specify a given number of abrasive particles per unit of area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For diamond-coated lapping plates (&quot;diamond stones&quot;), the &quot;grits&quot; are technically defined in terms of mesh, or number of microns between rows of the mesh. However, the &quot;mesh&quot; number advertised by lapping plate manufacturers such as DMT and EZE-Lap are defined to be equivalent to sandpaper grits. It's also worth noting that the manufacturing process affects how a diamond plate will perform over time. Some plates are designed so that the microscopic crystals fracture with use, exposing new, finer abrasive over time. Others are designed so the crystals remain intact. The downside to this approach is that they can be more prone to loading, requiring more frequent cleaning. Both designs are very durable and relatively low-maintenance if used properly with lubricating fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond the upper bound of diamond-coated lapping plates, you enter the polishing and honing grits, typically much higher than 1000 grit. These grits are the territory of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sharpening_stone#Japanese_waterstones&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Japanese waterstones&lt;/a&gt;, diamond paste, and honing compound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For all practical purposes, as long as you stay within one system, you just have to work your way from the coarser grits to the finer grits. If you want to mix and match systems, you need to know that the two products' grits are graded on roughly same scale or you need to find the abrasive size in microns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-07-08T16:43:42.583" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T16:43:42.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1963" CreationDate="2015-07-08T10:39:27.993" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have to admit to being a bit lost as to what grades of abrasive exist in what media &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being a bit unsure of what equates to what is commonplace and even outright confusion is understandable because &lt;em&gt;you can't trust comparative grit guides&lt;/em&gt;. Even doing a cursory investigation into abrasive stone comparison charts you should find some inconsistencies. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might suspect this is an example of &quot;You can't trust stuff on the Internet&quot; but unfortunately it's more pervasive than that as this is also true of guides published in print, including those from the manufacturers themselves. So one has to be very careful about accepting any &lt;em&gt;comparative&lt;/em&gt; information as definitive, although the defined grit size for any given product is more trustworthy (but not entirely reliable either).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are two charts giving comparative grit sizes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gprwA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Norton grit comparison chart&quot;&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Source: Norton catalogue]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RIHUt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bladeforums grit comparison chart&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Source: truncated from a chart found on Bladeforums]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see they agree and disagree about equally. Worth also comparing these to the chart linked to in rob's answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;and how either compares to any of the natural stones which are referred to only by name..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth noting that natural sharpening media, just like wood, are inherently variable. Any given grit rating for a type of stone like Soft Arkansas or Belgian Coticule should be taken as an approximation at best. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to some difference in apparent grit size they can vary in how well they cut, due to differences such as the grit:matrix ratio as well as in the variation of grit sizes within the stone (there is nearly always a mixture, with some or many smaller particles amongst the coarsest ones). Books going back to the 19th century mention the variability, e.g. that you might find &lt;em&gt;&quot;a quick-cutting [example]&quot;&lt;/em&gt; of a finer stone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Fine&quot; and &quot;extra fine&quot; seem to be defined differently for every manufacturer or medium, and not all of them give numeric values on the abrasive scale which might make them comparable... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very true. Even for the same type of sharpening medium two manufacturers might have a slightly different grit size in products of the same name. FWIW and just from casual observation this seems to be spread fairly evenly from the fine to the coarse end of the market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it really just &quot;go by the numbers and stop when you're satisfied with the edge&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To a degree, yes. But this is a little misleading as the fact is most people over-sharpen some or all of the time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's best to adopt a KISS approach to sharpening and not over-think it (very common in the West). First, what is the goal? To grind two faces to meet at a sharp edge, ideally with a zero radius. The more refined that edge, the less irregularity present, the sharper it is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that is firmly borne in mind it's much simpler to sharpen appropriately. It's also good to separate the concept of sharpening from honing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sharpening is edge creation.&lt;/strong&gt; Sharpening is for new tools that don't yet have a proper edge, and when an edge needs to be created from scratch (pardon the pun). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Honing is edge refinement.&lt;/strong&gt; Honing is the last step in sharpening but it should be the &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; step required when your knife, chisel or plane irons have lost their keen edge. So honing is what you do between sharpenings, meaning that in fact most of 'sharpening' is actually honing (or should be), since you can hone dozens of times between sharpenings so it is done far far more frequently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you hone well, and with sufficient frequency, you might need to sharpen yearly or less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When honing you shouldn't even glance at your coarser sharpening media, and in fact a medium stone would often be much more aggressive than the edge needs. Using one fine stone or diamond plate, followed by a strop, or a fine and ultra-fine stone if using waterstones, should normally be more than sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And in fact at the very simplest you can hone by stropping &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt;. An edge that's not quite sharp enough can be brought back to shaving-sharp in just 20-30 seconds by stropping, this is commonly done with carving knives and should become more common with chisels and plane irons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T10:39:27.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1966" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-08T13:58:05.643" Score="5" ViewCount="627" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in a log house with tongue-and-groove floors. The downstairs floor is prefinished and sits on a plywood subfloor with a thin foam layer in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the upstairs floor, while thicker, was unfinished and spans beams. We had to polyurethane it ourselves. The house is now about 10 years old and there are two boards that the person in the bedroom frequently have to walk across and they squeak now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's two boards and it's at the end of the board. I'm looking for the best, least visible solution to fix the squeaking. I haven't looked yet, but I'm sure I can get to the underside of the board from downstairs. The upstairs floor is the downstairs ceiling. It wasn't a good idea in retrospect, but it's what we're dealing with. There isn't a large crack do get into to do repair work. If there was, and there was something underneath that edge, I'd think just screwing it down would be the answer. I suppose if I had to, and there was a beam under the edge, I could screw from the top down and put wood putty over the screw head, but I think that would look bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have a suggestion on how to correctly fix this issue? Thanks. I'll try to find out whether or not there is a beam directly under the edge of the two boards or whether they're hanging out over open space and post back here tomorrow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="232" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T16:50:46.123" Title="Squeaking Tongue and Groove Fix" Tags="|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1966" CreationDate="2015-07-08T15:31:00.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;it sounds like the boards making up the floor didn't always 'end' on a joist? My first attempt would be to see if you can get a small wedge between the board and the nearest joist(s) and see if that stiffens it up enough.  If not I would try to put a brace under the joint from below, if it is visible you might want to make it decorative like a little arch or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T15:31:00.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1966" CreationDate="2015-07-08T16:50:46.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually the solution is to drive a fastener into the joist.  This can be done from above but is very visible, though if it is a non-obvious spot might not be a big deal.  Normally you can't see the floor from the level below so using a screw in a toe-nail fashion isn't a visibility problem.  However in your case, you can see the floor so you want something non-obvious.  A pocket screw would be a great solution to this problem as it will give you the hold you need without the screw being visible.  You can purchase pre-made pocket screw hole plugs in a variety of wood types to completely hide the hole once you are finished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T16:50:46.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1938" CreationDate="2015-07-08T19:54:16.143" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could need new brushes for the electric motor if it's been used a lot.  Depending on the model, you can usually replace them yourself relatively easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P1XI448B018&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This YouTube video&lt;/a&gt; shows an example of doing such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T19:54:16.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1833" CreationDate="2015-07-08T21:27:49.740" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;How was the log supported?  You might consider putting a sawbuck or a piece of log directly under the kerf, making an orientation similar to a see-saw, so that gravity pulls the two halves of the log such that the kerf is self-opening.  This is commonly used when chainsawing logs in the woods so that the saw doesn't get pinched, and it should be applicable to handsaws as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T21:27:49.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1520" CreationDate="2015-07-08T22:26:28.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Outdoor finishes have to be able to stand up to many adverse circumstances, including UV rays, moisture, and insects. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the finish absolutely has to be long-lasting, marine epoxy finish is the way to go. It is used by boat builders mostly and can be quite expensive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cabot makes a product called Australian Timber Oil that I've found works pretty well outdoors, but it requires re-application every so often. Most outdoor finishes require a regular maintenance routine to keep serviceable, so that's not a point against it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exterior-grade paint is another option, with a similar maintenance requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="107" LastEditDate="2015-07-09T02:52:28.183" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T02:52:28.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1973" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1975" CreationDate="2015-07-08T23:52:26.227" Score="10" ViewCount="4537" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zNXuYlwI8N0&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Frank Howarth made a splitter&lt;/a&gt; by creating a zero clearance insert, and then extending the kerf all the way through the back of the insert, towards the back of the table saw. He then glued thin strips of wood inside the kerf behind the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wzBad.png&quot; alt=&quot;Custom splitter&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to create a zero clearance insert for my Powermatic 64, and also want to add a splitter. Frank's method would kill two birds with one stone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is Frank's design safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, there is no possibility of attaching a riving knife for my particular saw, which would be better than a statically mounted splitter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="165" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2015-07-09T16:02:17.513" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T03:36:15.360" Title="Is Frank Howarth's homemade table saw splitter safe?" Tags="|safety|table-saw|zero-clearance-insert|riving-knife|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1973" CreationDate="2015-07-09T00:18:35.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Caveat: &quot;I know nothing! Nothing!&quot; I'm far from a sophisticated user of table saws, and paranoid enough that I paid the extra for a saw with &quot;airbags&quot; despite knowing that most table saw injuries happen to pros who have started taking the beast for granted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are certainly aftermarket splitters, which presumably use some concept of lining up with the blade. I suspect those are more robust and fine-tunable. With a homebrew I'd be a bit worried about it coming loose unexpectedly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2015-07-09T00:30:13.990" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T00:30:13.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1973" CreationDate="2015-07-09T05:08:51.500" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main issue with this splitter is like any other splitter - it has a fixed distance from the table. Since the saw blade is raised or lowered depending on what is being cut, the distance between the spiltter and blade will decrease or increase. Since the safest splitter is one that is closest to the blade as possible, when making shallow cuts this splitter will be less effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if this is used as a zero-clearance-insert with splitter for every common height setting (for example, 3 inserts for 1/4&quot;, 1/2&quot; and 3/4&quot; stock), this could provide better safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the video, it doesn't seem like he is chamfering the edge of the splitter that is facing the blade. You should - it will prevent the wood from bumping into the splitter in case the wood gets even a little twisted after the saw blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, making the splitter out of wood is probably prone to breaking the splitter. The kerf of the saw blade is narrow (even more so with a thin-kerf blade), and such a thin piece of wood is not strong. A piece of plastic or metal would probably be stronger, or maybe some high quality thin plywood (I'm not sure they even make plywood this thin though).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T05:08:51.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1976" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1982" CreationDate="2015-07-09T15:59:56.633" Score="13" ViewCount="114769" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm sure that people have seen this where you would be painting something white or lightish colour only to have the resin from the knots bleed through paint sometime later. Similar to what you see in the following picture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fZ7Vwm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Knot Bleeding&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my latest project I knew this was a possibility so I coated the knots with some shellac. However after about a month it still came through. I am sure if it was dried properly this &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; not have happened but the project was a large storage shelf that did not fit in my oven. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I have 2 related questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; I have done to try and prevent this?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What can I do to correct the damage after it has occurred. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-07-09T16:17:03.823" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T15:20:34.483" Title="Dealing with knots &quot;bleeding&quot; through paint" Tags="|technique|wood-repair|paint|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1978" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1981" CreationDate="2015-07-09T17:10:37.937" Score="11" ViewCount="5209" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a question about the longevity of the cedar smell when building with it. We have an armoire at our river cabin, it's 30+ years old and while you don't really smell anything when it's closed, opening it drowns you in a good cedar smell. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if it's eastern red cedar or not, because it was purchased, but I do have access to a lot of raw eastern red cedar. I want to know how long that smell will last under normal use of indoor items and if there is anything you can do to preserve it or bring it out if it fades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the outside of the armoire is polyurethaned to prevent wear. I think they left the inside untreated so you'd have that smell. While it's 30 years old, it doesn't see normal use. It's bedroom storage for things you don't use very often, but need to keep semi-protected. I'm sure that is the reason it still smells so strongly of cedar. If I were to build a piece from it, leaving some of it raw, how long would you reasonably think the smell would last? I'm sure it fades at some point, but would a light sanding expose more of the &quot;smelling&quot; surface? By normal use, I mean something you'd use regularly in your house, such as a dresser, a mens valet, a liquor cabinet, etc... Thanks for the help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="232" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T18:08:36.873" Title="Smell Longevity of Eastern Red Cedar" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1957" CreationDate="2015-07-09T17:21:51.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't be afraid to using straight polyurethane. I build shelving for my room in the form of a large book case and a small dvd shelf. I covered both in straight poly and after drying it neither has a smell or any stickiness to it as graphus suggested it possibly could.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only issue I had with it was that I only used one coat and didn't sand. I found out later that it stood the grain up slightly in some places. Not enough to really notice, even when running your had over it, but I sure notice it when I try to dust and dust and the duster try to stick to it. So if you do a couple of coats and sand lightly between, I think you'd be good to go. It will also help protect your wood pretty well. There is a slight shininess to my boards, but I think it looks good and I'm sure a buffing with a very high grit sandpaper would nock the shine off. If you were looking for something that wasn't as heavy, I've think you can mix water with the ploy to make a thinner wiping varnish, but I think that's mostly an issue of how easy it is to apply and how tough it is. I'm sure you have similar issues and benefits to full strength poly, just to a lesser degree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="232" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T17:21:51.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1976" CreationDate="2015-07-09T17:58:30.743" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shellac primer is the way to go maybe more than one coat and you should allow it to cure, which is different than drying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use spray cans of this:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/p/Zinsser-1-qt-B-I-N-White-Advanced-Synthetic-Shellac-Primer-4-Pack-271009/205421238?cm_mmc=Shopping%7cBase&amp;amp;gclid=CJP986HPzsYCFQ-PaQodAm0B7g&amp;amp;gclsrc=aw.ds&quot;&gt;http://www.homedepot.com/p/Zinsser-1-qt-B-I-N-White-Advanced-Synthetic-Shellac-Primer-4-Pack-271009/205421238?cm_mmc=Shopping%7cBase&amp;amp;gclid=CJP986HPzsYCFQ-PaQodAm0B7g&amp;amp;gclsrc=aw.ds&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spray the spots that are bleeding, lightly sand them and then apply an even coat of paint, ideally to the whole wall, though you can do the spot and feather the paint out from there...the potential drawback is you may get flashing on the paint if you don't do the whole wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the first coat of primer still bleeds through, sand lightly to smooth things out and spray on another coat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any oil based, or shellac based primer should do the trick, though it may take more than a single coat.  I know we don't do product recommendations...but I am recommending that one as I have used it many times in the last 15 years and it works great.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh...and shellac based primer...really really stinks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="212" LastEditorUserId="212" LastEditDate="2015-07-09T18:37:29.623" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T18:37:29.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1978" CreationDate="2015-07-09T18:08:36.873" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The smell comes from the oils in the wood.  If you want it to last longer it should remain closed as with your chest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Direct sunlight, moisture and large temperature changes will dry the wood out faster and avoiding those things will keep it smelling like cedar longer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sealing the external surfaces of whatever you make will help the wood keep its smell longer as well. (The piece you mention is about the best case scenario for keeping the smell really)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Light sanding can certainly bring the smell out but its not a total reset and it won't last as long as the smell did when the piece was originally created.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long is hard to say, depends on the wood, the climate, usage and all that but again your chest tells us it can last a really long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if all else fails and the smell is gone you can always buy cedar chips and put them in an inconspicuous place in the piece to keep it nice and cedar-y for a long long time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="212" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T18:08:36.873" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1976" CreationDate="2015-07-09T19:27:40.760" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What should I have done to try and prevent this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of shellac-based primer as already recommended (although very effective it can be inordinately expensive) I was actually going to recommend shellac itself, but then I read you'd already tried this and it wasn't effective. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I think the reason you got bleed-through wasn't a fault in the shellac but probably just that it wasn't applied in a heavy enough 'cut' (cut traditionally refers to dilution rates for shellac when made up from scratch). Rather than make a heavier cut you can simply apply further coats since it's the &lt;em&gt;total thickness&lt;/em&gt; of the shellac layer that is important, not how many applications it took to achieve it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately I can't recommend a specific number of coats. Erring on the side of caution I suppose three would be the minimum to apply, and as one of the chief advantages of shellac is the very fast drying time this shouldn't take that long. Apply more than three if patience allows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What can I do to correct the damage after it has occurred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bad news you were probably expecting: you should really remove the paint, treat the knots and re-paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T19:27:40.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1976" CreationDate="2015-07-09T20:22:26.150" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Correcting after it has occurred: only solution I can think of is to re-seal (shellac's single nicest feature may be that it sticks to both water- and oil-based finishes) and repaint (might be able to get away with just painting that area, feathering out the edges of the new paint to blend it with the surroundings).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Previous owners of my place solved this by going the other way -- they used white &lt;em&gt;stain&lt;/em&gt; on the porch, so the wood shows through a bit everywhere and any bleeding knots just add a bit more rustic character.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T20:22:26.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1984" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2004" CreationDate="2015-07-10T14:09:03.230" Score="13" ViewCount="49520" Body="&lt;p&gt;New lumber that is pressure treated will have tags that identify the chemical used. More noticeably is the green or brown colors from the treating process. So newer wood is easier to identify as treated. As the treated wood ages it can turn a grey colour. This might not be a good comparison but some cedars turn a &lt;em&gt;similar&lt;/em&gt; grey colour over time as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming I do not see tags and the (treated) colour has disappeared is there a way to tell if the wood was treated or not? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure I suppose I could cut into it but I have seen some wood where the colour was not obvious in a cross section. Another thought would be to do a test for arsenic but I don't know how good of a test that will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to take this wood if it can be avoided. For those that don't know I am a big upcycler and use reclaimed wood frequently. I have misidentified pressure treated in the past as was wondering about tips. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="140" LastEditDate="2015-09-16T14:27:08.377" LastActivityDate="2021-06-17T19:54:39.803" Title="Tips for recognizing aged pressure treated wood" Tags="|wood|toxicity|pressure-treated|reclaimed-wood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1984" CreationDate="2015-07-10T16:50:21.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well they quit using arsenic a while ago now, So that would only be partially effective test.  Granted the more important one, since the new stuff is supposed to be much safer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you have a small hand plane, you can do a few quick passes to see if you get down to the 'green' color popping out.  doing this on the 'least' aged side would be the fastest.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next best requires keeping a hand saw handy, and cutting off the end of the board to see the pressure treated pattern. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T16:50:21.293" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1986" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1988" CreationDate="2015-07-10T17:26:03.053" Score="7" ViewCount="1276" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was reading the &lt;a href=&quot;https://drunkenwoodworker.com/how-make-bandsaw-box&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;How to Make a Bandsaw Box&quot; by the Drunken Woodworker&lt;/a&gt;, and I noticed he used a ton of F-style clamps for the initial glue up. Later he uses some Bessey K-Bodies for re-gluing the drawer back together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dbNdU.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, why use so many F-style clamps rather than just 3-4 parallel bar clamps that would cover the entire surface?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note: I glued some 2-3/4&quot; x 5-1/4&quot; pieces together a few nights ago, and had a bit of trouble getting them to stay lined up while I tightened my K-Body style clamps on them. Would the F-style clamps have been easier to achieve a good alignment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastEditorUserId="38" LastEditDate="2015-07-10T19:28:23.303" LastActivityDate="2017-10-08T23:08:42.727" Title="What advantages do F-style clamps offer for gluing up a thick laminate?" Tags="|glue|clamps|laminating|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1987" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1991" CreationDate="2015-07-10T17:54:28.830" Score="9" ViewCount="3163" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a couple leftover railroad ties from a retaining wall I built and I would like to turn them into benches.  Rather than sit on the old tar covered exterior though I would like to cut a bit of it off as in this fantastically drawn image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jzJuY.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is a profile view so you are looking at it from the side.  Basically I would like to leave about 6 inches the full height on each side then cut a curve about two inches tall so that the seat portion is 6&quot; thick.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do I make this cut and what tools will I need?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that the lumber is 8&quot; x 8&quot; x 10' so getting it up on a workbench is out of the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="212" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-07-18T15:24:50.833" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T15:12:13.163" Title="Turning a railroad tie into a bench, how to make a cut?" Tags="|technique|tool-identification|cutting|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1986" CreationDate="2015-07-10T17:59:16.757" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My question is, why use so many F-style clamps rather than just 3-4 parallel bar clamps that would cover the entire surface?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably the simplest explanation is to spread the clamping force more uniformly. Although this can be done using fewer larger clamps too, with use of clamping blocks, which appear to be in the photograph anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Side note: I glued some 2-3/4&quot; x 5-1/4&quot; pieces together a few nights ago, and had a bit of trouble getting them to stay lined up while I tightened my K-Body style clamps on them. Would the F-style clamps have been easier to achieve a good alignment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With conventional clamps of any kind keeping alignment can be tricky because so many woodworking glues lubricate the joint surfaces so well. Really it's not a matter of what clamp to use that prevents the problem but a clamping process or procedure that'll counteract it, or modifying the joint to maintain its own alignment: more traditional options including dowels and a long floating tenon (spline), and more recently biscuits. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to use cauls of some kind to physically hold the glue-up firmly flat, basically by clamping downwards across the boards as well as across the main clamping axis:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r4lsU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wavy clamping cauls for wide glue-ups&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One final option that isn't as commonly seen it to build a clamping apparatus of some kind — a jig or clamping frame — that includes within it in some means to hold the glue-up flat, as in this example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m0yk2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Thin-board clamping jig&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T17:59:16.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1989" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1992" CreationDate="2015-07-10T18:12:17.927" Score="7" ViewCount="2523" Body="&lt;p&gt;My project consists of maple plywood with maple veneer edge banding.  I plan on using General Finishes waterborne stain, followed by a waterborne polyurethane outdoor varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long do I need to wait between applying the stain and the first coat of polyurethane?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://generalfinishes.com/professional-products/application-techniques/water-base-finishing-tips-hand-application&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;instructions on the General Finishes website&lt;/a&gt; are generally helpful and verbose, but don't contain this key bit of information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="204" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-02-02T13:17:06.583" LastActivityDate="2020-02-02T13:17:06.583" Title="Dry time between General Finishes waterborne stain and topcoat?" Tags="|finishing|staining|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1989" CreationDate="2015-07-10T18:29:00.903" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dry and cure times for water based products are generally shorter than their solvent based alternatives (that is not universally true but should apply in this case).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The general answer to your question is that the longer you wait the better but 24 hours between the stain and the sealer should be plenty of time.  If you are in a hurry for some reason you can wait until the stain is dry to the touch (meaning you don't get color residue on your fingers if you wipe your fingers across) and begin sealing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past I have wiped stain on, let it sit for about 30 minutes, wiped it off and immediately applied my topcoat.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has always worked fine for me but I would not recommend it for a high quality piece of woodworking, nor for anything that will get a lot of usage.  So no chairs, tables, cabinets etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="212" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T18:29:00.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1987" CreationDate="2015-07-10T18:42:29.037" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know how &quot;pretty&quot; it needs to be when its done but rough cuts can easily be done with a chainsaw or a reciprocating saw with a long enough blade. A quick search shows blades that are 10&quot; long which might be enough for the reciprocating saw. A 12&quot; pruning blade like this &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000FAPPAA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bad boy from Amazon&lt;/a&gt; for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oiIRHm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Might not be the best example but as long as the gullets are deep enough ( they would need to be for this. ) it &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making wedges from the sides until there is enough room to work the tool though the 6&quot; region. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Need to be &lt;strong&gt;really careful&lt;/strong&gt; using the chainsaw. Very dangerous tool. Especially for the stance you might need to make this cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had an old style enormous hand saw for ripping the tie I imagine that would work as well as seen in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.timberframe-tools.com/natural-timbers/rip-sawing-an-old-log/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this blog&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eAqXi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Big hand saw&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coming at it from the side with a broad axe would work as well. In the same vein as how logs are rough shaped into timber. You could also cut vertically down was a saw (hand or powered) several times across the length of the seat and pop out the waste with a large timber chisel or slick. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yGagmm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yGagmm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Timber Slick&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Creosote&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much like I said in my comment those ties are commonly treated with creosote which is a known skin irritant amongst other health concerns like causing chemical burns. While you might be avoiding exposure by sealing it I will still mention this because the risk is there while &lt;em&gt;processing the tie&lt;/em&gt; as well &#xA;(sawdust and what not.). Even if no one sits on it. Your skin and lungs are not worth it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-09-10T15:12:13.163" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T15:12:13.163" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1989" CreationDate="2015-07-10T18:46:10.430" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How long do I need to wait between applying the stain and the first coat of polyurethane?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's impossible to tell you for sure how long to wait because of all the possible variations, including: the moisture content of the wood, the amount of stain applied and/or left on the wood, the local temperature and humidity of course, as well as the amount of airflow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most situations waiting some hours would be enough but waiting longer can't hurt. Recoat time for some brands of waterbased wood stains is stated as two hours so that gives some idea of the bare minimum drying period (remembering this would be for a typical application and average conditions). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Err on the side of caution and wait a few hours at least, a full day if patience allows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T18:46:10.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1987" CreationDate="2015-07-10T20:27:28.920" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a chainsaw or horizontal bandsaw to remove a 2&quot;x8&quot;x10' slice, then cut the ends off that slice, trim to the desired angle, and glue the ends back on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or go &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/Au1TbIyLcPU?t=945&quot;&gt;Roy Underhill&lt;/a&gt; on that railroad tie and use an axe to rough out the seat and a broad axe to clean it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Protect yourself from the creosote while working by wearing pants, a long-sleeved shirt, and a respirator. You mentioned it will be sealed and/or will be purely decorative so presumably the creosote won't be an issue after it's built.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a child I spent countless hours sitting on a railroad tie retaining wall in my parents' front yard, but I don't recall a tar-like finish so maybe my parents' railroad ties weren't coated in creosote.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-07-10T20:35:33.247" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T20:35:33.247" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1987" CreationDate="2015-07-11T06:38:51.867" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can imagine Roy Underhill using a draw knife for a project like this and he would likely have the job completed in less than twenty-five minutes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One major advantage of draw knife is that you will not be dealing with sawdust, just shavings.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;rpr&#xA;It's going to take more time and you might develop a blister or two if you don't wear gloves, but you will have total control and you will finish the job with a grin like Roy's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also become proficient at sharpening the draw knife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T06:38:51.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1987" CreationDate="2015-07-11T11:46:16.090" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the others I recommend to take care if your railroad tie is an actual tie that was treated and not just one cut to size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'm going to recommend the adz, it's an ax like tool that has been used to shape logs for ages.  This would allow you to do most of the rough shaping relatively quickly, it will work well with the tie laying on the ground as well.  Then you could smooth it out with draw knives and hand planes even to a hand sander if you so desire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AUrCf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T11:46:16.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1976" CreationDate="2015-07-13T07:30:26.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only method I have found that works 100% to hide these stains is to use a two part epoxy marine paint as your primer. Reason being that two part epoxies cure by chemical cross-linking as opposed to most paints that cure by solvent/water evaporation. The cured epoxy film makes an impervious barrier for the wood resins. Of course these epoxy paints are expensive so the moral of the story is: don't use knotty pine if you can afford clear pine ( or whatever species suits your fancy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="410" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T07:30:26.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10" CreationDate="2015-07-13T21:46:56.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The type of wood can make a difference.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance cherry is a wood that shows burn marks more readily than other hardwoods and is great for testing other means of preventing charring mentioned in other answers, i.e. depth of cut, direction of cut, dull or dirty bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T21:46:56.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2001" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-13T23:00:48.790" Score="7" ViewCount="965" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I just want some cheap material for a project, I often consider using softwood (meant for framing and construction uses) dimensional lumber. In case I pass by a Home Depot store and I have to pick up some scraps by the side of the road, what grade are those scraps? What kind of grades of lumber do contractors usually throw away?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do they generally stock No. 2 or No. 3 grade lumber? Do they even carry No. 1? Is a stud always a No. 2?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without relying on the lumber to be graded and labeled correctly, what factors can I look for to estimate the grade myself? Is it absence of knots, or just general appearance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="502" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2015-07-18T06:32:07.687" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T06:32:07.687" Title="What factors are considered when grading softwood" Tags="|wood-selection|wood|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2001" CreationDate="2015-07-14T01:33:16.507" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your local home store &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; define the grade of lumber that's on the shelf. If not, I'd ask an associate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my experience, the Home Depot around me usually has No. 1 through Construction Grade on stock for most sizes and it's always labeled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T01:33:16.507" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1973" CreationDate="2015-07-14T03:36:15.360" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd really worry about the oak splitter itself splitting along the grain. Imagine that leading edge catching on the wood, breaking, and jamming into the kerf. Could get entertaining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you like the design, I'd switch to using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=model%20aircraft%20plywood&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;model aircraft plywood&lt;/a&gt;. You can get very thin sheets that still have multiple layers. You don't need three-ply 1/64&quot; plywood (!), but five-ply 1/8&quot; plywood would be much stronger and I think safer than the oak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="895" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T03:36:15.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1984" CreationDate="2015-07-14T04:14:13.477" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any wood left untreated and allowed to weather will eventually turn gray.  In the days before pressure treated lumber was prominent, people stained or painted their decks and other outdoor projects to protect them from rot and graying.   With the advent of pressure treating, the advice and common practice became to &quot;let it weather naturally&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Determine the history of the wood&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assume the wood has been treated with CCA if you think the wood could have been processed prior to 2003 (the year that EPA said to stop this silliness).  Or if you have found an out-building from prior to about 1970, you can proceed to up-cycle with confidence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Look closely at the wood&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surely there are places where part of the wood that was protected from the effects of weather by a lap joint or a piece of trim.  If you see any green in the overlap, it's CCA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cut into the wood&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't plan on seeing tell tale green by cutting off an end; it will be too hard to see.  Instead, make a very low angle cut as though you are making a scarf joint.  You should might see a transition from gray (weathering) to green (CCD) to yellow (wood). The inability to see green is not a sure sign that there is no&#xA;CCD, but he presence is a positive indicator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Forget it if you really want &quot;clean&quot; wood&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short of chemical or spectral analysis (expensive and I suspect a violation of up-cycler credo) , you cannot be certain that the wood is not tainted, but you might be able to confirm your suspicions that it is. It looks like there is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sensafe.com/arsenic-kits/481396-arsenic-quick-wood-field-testing-kit/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;chemical analysis kit&lt;/a&gt; (thanks to @Austinian) that will give you five tests for under $30 US.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2015-07-25T05:16:53.330" LastActivityDate="2015-07-25T05:16:53.330" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2001" CreationDate="2015-07-14T21:12:06.103" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, lumber grade refers to how free the wood is from knots and similar defects. Exact definitions vary depending on the kind of wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exact details for hardwood grades are a complicated mix of how many and how large &quot;clear&quot; (knot-free) or solid (no loose knots, no cracks) pieces one can get out of the board, and whether you want that clear grain on both sides or are willing to settle for just one being pretty. The grading is generally done by eye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For softwood the system is based on structural strength rather than appearance, and the grading is supposed to be more rigorous since, literally, more rests on the accuracy of the tests. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get uncommon grades -- weaker softwood or knottier/&quot;rustic&quot; hardwood -- you may need to hit real lumberyards or sawmills rather than hitting a big-box store. Whether the price difference justifies the effort will depend on your needs and local availability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the traditional solution for ugly wood was to paint it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T21:12:06.103" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1310" CreationDate="2015-07-14T21:47:41.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The riving knife on my table saw (Powermatic 2000) extends higher than the blade.  This is because it also functions as the mount for the blade guard which I no longer use since I have come to appreciate the safety factor of the riving knife.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is necessary to remove the riving knife whenever I make any cut that is not a through cut, i.e. a groove. I have frequently thought, though not acted yet, to hacking off the riving knife so that its&amp;nbsp;top is even with the top of the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="315" LastEditDate="2016-04-13T12:19:12.437" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T12:19:12.437" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2001" CreationDate="2015-07-15T14:11:13.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a document on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ahec.org/hardwoods/pdfs/IllustratedGradingGuide.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;grading hardwood lumber&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important parts &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Selects&#xA;  This grade is virtually the same as F1F except for the minimum board size required. Selects allow&#xA;  boards 4&quot; and wider and 6' and longer in length. The Selects grade is generally associated with&#xA;  the northern regions of the USA and is also shipped in combination with the FAS grade.&#xA;  Often export shipments of upper grades are simply referred to as FAS. The conventional&#xA;  business practice for American hardwoods is to ship these upper grades in some combination.&#xA;  Working closely with the supplier will enable the buyer to be sure that the expected quality will be&#xA;  received. Whether FAS is combined with F1F (Face And Better) or Selects (Sel And Better) every&#xA;  board in the shipment must have a minimum of one FAS face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Number 1 Common grade is often referred to as the Cabinet grade in the USA because of its&#xA;  adaptability to the standard sizes of kitchen cabinet doors used throughout the United States.&#xA;  Number 1 Common is widely used in the manufacture of furniture parts as well for this same&#xA;  reason. The Number 1 Common grades includes boards that are a minimum of 3&quot; wide and 4' long&#xA;  and will yield clear face cuttings from 662&#xA;  ⁄3% (8&#xA;  ⁄12ths) up to, but not including, the minimum&#xA;  requirement for FAS (831&#xA;  ⁄3%). The smallest clear cuttings allowed are 3&quot; by 3' and 4&quot; by 2'.&#xA;  The number of these clear cuttings is determined by the size of the board. Both faces of the&#xA;  board must meet the minimum requirement for Number 1 Common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Number 2A Common (No. 2AC)&#xA;  The Number 2A Common grade is often referred to as the Economy grade because of its price&#xA;  and suitability for a wide range of furniture parts. It is also the grade of choice for the US&#xA;  hardwood flooring industry. The Number 2A Common grade includes boards that are a minimum&#xA;  of 3&quot; wide and 4' long that yield from 50% (6&#xA;  ⁄12ths) up to, but not including, the&#xA;  minimum requirement for Number 1 Common (662&#xA;  ⁄3%). The smallest clear cutting allowed is 3&quot; by&#xA;  2' and the number of these cuttings depends on the size of the board. If the poorest face meets&#xA;  the minimum requirements for Number 2A Common, it does not matter what the grade of the&#xA;  better face is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alsc.org/greenbook%20collection/ps20.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;softwood grading doc&lt;/a&gt;.  It appears to be much more technical because softwoods tend to be used for different purposes than hardwoods.  Most especially, hardwoods are used primarily for their 'look', furniture etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Select is actually better than #1 which of course is better than #2.  (This is all US standards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T14:11:13.190" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2009" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2018" CreationDate="2015-07-15T16:17:41.997" Score="5" ViewCount="1388" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a method or technique for tapering a board with a handheld power planer? I have an assembly that's got one board butted up against another board at each end, kind of in an &quot;H&quot; configuration. The cross piece of the H is 1/16-1/8&quot; proud at one end, but flush at the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Whiz4.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Sketch courtesy of Damon)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without disassembling the whole thing, I'd like to plane it flush. However, powered planers generally only have two parallel shoes, not one that can be angled up or down. How can I achieve a smooth taper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is there a better tool for this job that's relatively inexpensive?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The project that generated this question is a king bed frame constructed of raw 2x6 boards lagged together. I'm planning on adding stained &quot;finish boards&quot; screwed in from the back when I get the chance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastEditorUserId="38" LastEditDate="2015-07-16T12:47:22.820" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T15:47:50.450" Title="How can I taper a slightly misaligned board with a handheld power planer?" Tags="|power-tools|plane|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2009" CreationDate="2015-07-15T17:42:19.747" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I understand your issue correctly, there are a few ways to tackle your misalignment.  Since the internet loves lists, I've edited my post to do so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If I were doing it, I would use a smoothing (hand) plane to take off your high spot on the cross-piece of the H.  A couple swipes with the plane, followed by a bit of sanding and/or scraping, and the joint should be nice and flat.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a nice, sharp chisel and skim the high spot off with light passes.  Move the chisel in kind of a circular motion so that it's more of a shear cut instead of cutting into end grain or cross grain.  This will lead to a smoother result.  You'll want to use the lower piece as a platform to index your chisel against.  Again, follow up with sand paper and/or scraping.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a belt sander to very quickly flatten the high spot.  You indicated that this face will have a veneer of sorts over it, so having rough sanding marks may not matter since they will be covered.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fill in the low spot with putty (like Bondo) or with a glued-in shim.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Trim off the high spot with a flush-cut saw, indexing the broad face of the saw against the low spot&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-07-16T15:47:50.450" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T15:47:50.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2011" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2193" CreationDate="2015-07-15T22:20:31.353" Score="11" ViewCount="5425" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having seen the expression &quot;climbing-cut&quot; used in several questions on routers and once in comments about table-saws, it finally registered on me that I didn't know what the heck a climbing cut is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell, with a router, a climbing cut occurs when the cut occurs as the cutting edge of the bit enters the cutting path, whereas the normal way to rout is with the bit doing its work as it leaves the cutting path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a table-saw, a climbing cut is when the wood is introduced to the blade as the teeth are coming upward rather than downward as we normally would cut wood.  That is, the wood is introduced from the rear of the saw instead of the front.  Here I am calling the position where the operator normally stands (probably near the on/off switch) the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, basically, it seems that a climbing cut is one that's made backwards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it ever make sense to use a climbing cut on a table-saw?  If so what are the safety precautions that should be followed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2015-07-16T05:01:31.553" LastActivityDate="2017-10-20T21:30:13.197" Title="Is a climbing cut on a table-saw ever justified?" Tags="|safety|table-saw|" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2011" CreationDate="2015-07-15T22:41:42.743" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never seen mention of any cut made starting from the back of the blade. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cove cuts &lt;em&gt;use&lt;/em&gt; the full exposed arc of the blade, but approach it from the front so there's no risk of the wood being pulled into and thru the blade -- and are done with serious hold-downs/featherboards/guides to control the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some tenoning techniques which approach the blade from the side, but those generally act at the top of the blade's arc -- again, avoiding the back -- and even those are tremendously safer if guided/anchored by a jig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't walk around the back of a horse without extreme care, and the back of the blade is at least as dangerous. Probably more so. Best to avoid the situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T22:41:42.743" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2011" CreationDate="2015-07-16T00:18:58.563" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;From looking around the interblag there are people who admit to doing it. Some do it to cut aluminum or they install the blade backward to get a similar effect. A weak point to make would be I'm sure the manual for the saw says don't do it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feeding the work piece backwards &lt;strike&gt;should be considered&lt;/strike&gt; is a bad idea. The blade will be trying to both pull the piece away from you and push it away from the table. With normal function these forces are opposite and are &lt;em&gt;less&lt;/em&gt; likely to harm you if something goes awry (with the aid of &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/82/128&quot;&gt;other safety equipment and features&lt;/a&gt;). You can use something like &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/82/128&quot;&gt;fence mounted rollers&lt;/a&gt; to help keep the piece down but there is still that force from the blade that will be there pushing. This also leads to tear out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure you can try to be safe and with controlled movements make your cut but all it takes is a surprise in the wood like a knot or a nail to move the piece erratically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many admit to doing it. None seem to advocate it or are willing to go on video showing themselves. Even if they do it still does not make it right, like making a video of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AzNYlmFOkW4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cutting glass on a table saw&lt;/a&gt;. The table saw is already one of the most dangerous power tools. Use it as intended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was reading a post in regards to this topic over at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f12/running-wood-backwards-table-saw-always-bad-idea-right-55464/index3/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;WoodWorkingTalk&lt;/a&gt; and they were advocated to both sides of this. Safety should always be the first concern and sometimes experience breeds complacency. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T11:42:27.313" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2011" CreationDate="2015-07-16T02:49:34.950" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Been doing this work for 20+ years professionally. I've never run material into a table saw from the back of the blade. Seems like absolute lunacy to do such a thing. The table saw will want to rip that wood from your hand and if you don't let go immediately it will eat your hand and laugh while it does it. I have run an all metal (ie, not carbide tipped) plywood blade backwards on a SKIL saw on purpose for thin plastics, but the forces at work are quite a bit different than on the table saw. I can't imagine why such a cut would be needed nor how to do it safely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the router...I just can't imagine what you are describing. My brain says there are only two ways to route: either you are pushing the router bit into the wood against the rotation of the bit or you are going with the rotation of the bit. The latter can get you in trouble for the same general reasons it can on the table saw: the router can more easily run down the wood uncontrollably and paint the room with the insides of your nearest digit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="903" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T02:49:34.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2011" CreationDate="2015-07-16T05:49:58.860" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &quot;climb cut&quot; is called such because the workpiece wants to &quot;climb&quot; over the blade--or, if the workpiece is fixed, the blade wants to &quot;climb&quot; over the workpiece.  Where do you think Galoob got the idea for &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5W4MYJt8c4w&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;THE ANIMAL&lt;/a&gt; monster truck?  Some guy trying to make a deep climb cut with a rip blade on a circular saw, no doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people use a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; shallow climb cut with a tracksaw or circular saw as a scoring cut to prevent chipout on the subsequent cut, so I suppose there may also be people who use the same technique on a table saw.  But does that mean it's justified?  No, not when there are safer ways to achieve the same result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;But what if I find a case in which I need to make a climb cut on the table saw?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a normal table saw, don't do it. But assuming there was some legitimate reason to make a climb cut on a table saw and it could be done safely, I would use a blade with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/q/2016/49&quot;&gt;negative hook angle&lt;/a&gt; and would insist on using a saw with an active safety system like SawStop or REAXX.  I wouldn't even begin to consider taking anything more than a scoring cut (1/32&quot; or less, depending on the material), and even then I would want to use a big heavy sled and would want want the workpiece strongly secured to the sled. That said, I would still highly recommend against making the climb cut in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, it's worth noting that some high-end panel saws/sliding table saws have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6hehqX7Uu5A&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;scoring blade&lt;/a&gt; that makes a very shallow scoring cut (using a reverse-spinning blade; i.e., a climb cut) before the wood reaches the main blade. On these high-end saws, the scoring cut is very shallow and the wood is securely clamped to the sliding table, so the cut is reasonably safe. It's significantly more dangerous to attempt the same cut on a normal jobsite, contractor, or cabinet table saw, even if you follow the extra precautions that I outlined above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why is it so dangerous?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many serious problems with making a climb cut on a table saw, but here are a few that I hope scare you enough not to try it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can't use a riving knife to prevent kickback in the event of the material pinching the blade or binding between the blade and fence (or is it kick&lt;em&gt;forward&lt;/em&gt; in this case?)...more specifically, you have to remove the riving knife to feed the material into the back of the blade, and you cannot install the riving knife at the front of the blade.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the workpiece gets pulled away from you, you may be pulled with it, right into the blade.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The higher the blade is, the harder you will have to fight to keep the workpiece from being lifted off the table and rolling over the blade.  And harder you're fighting to keep the workpiece down, the more you'll slip when you lose control.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're feeding material from the back of the saw, &lt;em&gt;the OFF switch is on the other side, far out of your reach&lt;/em&gt;...so you can't turn off the saw partway into your cut when you begin to realize what a &lt;strong&gt;stupid idea&lt;/strong&gt; this was!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T21:08:22.963" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2016" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-16T06:11:28.790" Score="14" ViewCount="10827" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the specs listed on saw blades is the &lt;em&gt;hook angle&lt;/em&gt;. What does this mean, and when would you choose one over the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T15:07:33.893" Title="What is the hook angle on a saw blade?" Tags="|safety|table-saw|tools|saw-blade|radial-arm-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2016" CreationDate="2015-07-16T06:11:28.790" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The hook angle refers to the angle at which the teeth will engage the material being cut. A high or positive hook angle means the outermost tip of each tooth will engage very aggressively, whereas a low or negative hook angle causes each tooth to take a less aggressive bite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7rBb7.png&quot; alt=&quot;hook angle&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/how-to/blades-101/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do I choose a blade based on hook angle?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a blade with a negative hook angle for tools that make climb cuts, such as radial arm saws.  A radial arm saw is more difficult to control and will try to cut faster than you want it to, if the installed blade has a positive hook angle. A negative hook angle is also useful for cutting certain materials such as metal on a table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a blade with a positive hook angle for faster, more aggressive cuts, such as ripping boards on a table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-07-16T15:07:33.893" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T15:07:33.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2009" CreationDate="2015-07-16T12:11:44.607" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having never used a handheld planer for this I think you can do this the same way you'd do it with a hand plane, &lt;em&gt;if&lt;/em&gt; it can be adjusted to take a light enough cut. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're simply planing the board more towards one end, in stages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;plane first from about 3/4 of the way along the board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;next couple of passes from about halfway along the board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;last passes to get the edge nearly flush over approx. the last quarter of the board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;one or two very very light final passes along nearly the whole length to flatten out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do a lot of tapering by hand this way on a small scale and the process does translate to longer surfaces such as board edges, although it's more difficult when working larger to get a flat edge after you're done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which direction you plane the board to prevent tearout is an additional uncertainty. Most wood has a preferred planing direction, and if on your board edge that's away from the lip then you'll have to work opposite to the above outlined method, planing towards the 3/4 mark, then the halfway point etc. This will involve lifting the planer away from the wood as it runs, and I don't know how easy or safe that is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case I think you should protect the edge of the wood at 90° to the board you're planing with a couple of layers of tape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the uppermost layer of tape is getting chewed by the planer then it's time to stop planing and switch to something else. I would take the last of it off with a file, then do finish scraping or sanding, but you could of course skip the file and do all the work with sandpaper, it'll just take longer. In case it needs to be said: back the paper with a block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Or is there a better tool for this job that's relatively inexpensive?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm presuming here that you don't have a belt sander, which is the tool I would use for this if I didn't own a hand plane. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted to buy something specifically for this I'd get a low-angle block plane. One of these has a lot of potential future utility, so it's a very worthwhile investment (lifetime tool too, won't ever wear out and has no consumables like a sander). But, unless you buy high end you will need to sharpen it for it to work successfully first time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T12:11:44.607" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2011" CreationDate="2015-07-17T02:40:20.987" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made an expanding plate that was parallel strips dovetailed into each other, so it would not fall through like a pot-rest I had. It was tricky to cut the shapes, and I don't remember why but I made one set of cuts backwards on the blade. I think it was because of the curved shape of the curf-end of the cut that doesn't go all the way to the end of the board, and it curved the wrong way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the &lt;em&gt;reason&lt;/em&gt; is lack of a different tool such as a band saw, and cutting things out of a large shape rather than a flat board (so you can't just turn it over).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used a clamped board with a spacer the same thickness as the cut board, to prevent the piece from moving up off the table, and provide a stop point as well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="315" LastActivityDate="2015-07-17T02:40:20.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2011" CreationDate="2015-07-17T05:43:12.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Climb cutting with a table saw can cause the wood to grab, throwing the piece at high velocity. One word, don't. Two words, don't, ever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="708" LastActivityDate="2015-07-17T05:43:12.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2021" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-07-17T19:34:39.650" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-07-17T19:34:39.650" LastActivityDate="2015-07-17T19:34:39.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2022" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-07-17T19:34:39.650" Score="0" Body="Boards that are created by cuts where the growth rings are approximately 30-60 degrees to the face of the board" OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-07-18T13:01:29.117" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T13:01:29.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2023" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-07-17T19:44:20.777" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-07-17T19:44:20.777" LastActivityDate="2015-07-17T19:44:20.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2024" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-07-17T19:44:20.777" Score="0" Body="Using a hot iron to emboss or decorate wood" OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2015-07-18T12:58:35.190" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T12:58:35.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2025" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2027" CreationDate="2015-07-18T02:04:40.810" Score="9" ViewCount="4267" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am now the proud owner of a used router and table. I am just getting ready to use it for the first time and was reading some emails and saw the following ad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dwbD1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dwbD1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Router Table&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodpeck.com/media/main_CRQJ_2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;WoodPeck&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So almost all pictures I see of router tables have a fence or guard in play. In that picture they are not using a fence. I would think that the super fast moving blade would be a reason to have &lt;em&gt;something&lt;/em&gt; for safety. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So can you operate the router, on a table, without a fence or guard safely? Assuming I can what, besides a fence, &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; I be using on the router table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2019-04-03T16:21:46.913" LastActivityDate="2019-04-03T16:21:46.913" Title="How can you safely operate a router table without a fence?" Tags="|safety|router|router-table|fence|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2025" CreationDate="2015-07-18T03:01:53.107" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure.  In the picture above, the bit has a bearing on it, which sort of acts as a fence.  I have that exact set of Woodpecker's radius jigs and use them exactly as pictured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what purpose there would be in using a non-bearing bit on a router table without a fence or some sort of fixture to guide the cut, but you could do it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will often see a router table with a place for a post near the bit.  This allows you to pivot the work into the bit in a more controlled manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T03:01:53.107" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2025" CreationDate="2015-07-18T03:02:29.473" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bit they are using in that picture has a bearing on the top part that is sticking out of the table (which is actually the bottom of the bit, because routers are inverted in a router table). Bits with bearings like that are safe to operate without a fence, because the bearing spins, acting as a guide as the stock is pushed along the bit. It doesn't matter which angle the stock approaches the bit from, because the bit is symmetrical, and as soon as the stock hits the bearing, the bit will not be able to cut any deeper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bit in the picture is known as a flush trim bit. In a router table, the bit can be used to trace a pattern. In the picture, the pattern is provided by the Woodpecker's jig. The curve of the jig will be cut into the work piece. As the work piece is pushed into the router, the bearing is pushed against the jig template. Because the cutting blade is flush with the bearing, the pattern the bearing rides against will be cut into the work piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that is difficult to picture, it may be helpful to view a video of it being done. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zTIWwOoMda4&quot;&gt;Here is one&lt;/a&gt; I found on YouTube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bits without bearings generally require a fence to use. With no bearing, there is nothing controlling the depth of the cut. The fence does that for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2015-07-18T06:39:03.053" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T06:39:03.053" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2028" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2029" CreationDate="2015-07-18T03:38:30.667" Score="7" ViewCount="6720" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to build a workbench and want to use layered plywood for the bench top. To keep costs down, I am considering using 3/4&quot; OSB for the base and glueing 1/4&quot; plywood on top instead of layering 3/4&quot; plywood (I'm fine with the slight difference in sizes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With OSB being more textured than regular plywood, will I have problems with the glue not covering evenly and ending up with a weak glue job?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="913" LastActivityDate="2020-12-11T15:32:43.713" Title="Can I glue OSB to plywood?" Tags="|joinery|glue|plywood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2028" CreationDate="2015-07-18T06:27:31.553" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;With OSB being more textured than regular plywood, will I have problems with the glue not covering evenly and ending up with a weak glue job?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weaker yes, but it shouldn't be a problem as there is still ample surface area. Some additional care would be advisable to ensure a successful bond forms. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, in case you're unaware wood surfaces to be glued should be freshly worked — that is, they should have been planed, cut, scraped or sanded recently — for a proper glue joint to form. And with sheet goods some sanding is considered a good idea anyway to remove any minor surface contamination it may have accrued during storage and from handling with bare hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So lightly sand both surfaces to be glued, spread a thin even layer of glue over both boards (a hard rubber or plastic roller can work well here if you have one) and then bring the boards together and 'clamp' using heavy objects. Use plenty of weight spread around the boards, you can use paint tins (full), stacks of books and even bottles of water to supply the clamping force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood glue is very lubricative, so watch out for some slippage as weight is applied. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T06:27:31.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2030" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2039" CreationDate="2015-07-18T11:11:01.453" Score="14" ViewCount="52871" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a large round of wood (horizontal slice of a tree) which is about 20 inches across (circle diameter) and 8-9 inches deep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to take the centre out of the wood, either by cutting a circle which is maybe 4-6 inches smaller in diameter than the piece (thus leaving 2-3 inches of wood around the outside) or by making some kind of cut that follows the shape of the wood (since its not a perfect circle).  The second option here would be my preference but I can work with the first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also like to avoid cutting it into pieces or cutting into it from the edge and then having to re-glue but if thats the only option that might be a possibility.  Even if I slice it in half somehow though I still have the problem of hollowing out two very large semi-circles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wherever possible I would like to keep the wood inside relatively intact so I can do the same thing to the centre-area I've taken out on a smaller scale (rather than it all being just wasted).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The options I have considered / tried are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) &lt;strong&gt;Bandsaw&lt;/strong&gt; - I don't have one of these with a large enough throat I could actually cut the depth of wood on it.  Also this would mean entering from the side and manipulating a very heavy and large piece of wood accurately moving it around to place the cut along the side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) &lt;strong&gt;Drilling adjoining holes&lt;/strong&gt; - I have tried to drill holes through with a spade bit but have had issues.  For one my spade bit is not long enough.  Assuming I could get an extender of some sort and get it through to the other side its very hard to keep it 'on track' while drilling an adjoining hole since the rotation of the bit seems to want to pull it into the adjoining hole drilled previously.  Once this happens it destroys the 'walls' separating the two touching holes I am trying to drill and makes it near impossible to keep on track.  I have a pillar drill that might be able to help with this issue but then I am back to manipulating a very large piece of wood on a drill platform which is much too small for it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) &lt;strong&gt;Drilling separate holes then cutting through&lt;/strong&gt; - I have also tried to drill holes which are separated by a small distance (e.g. 10mm).  This is much easier to drill the holes and my plan was to use a keyhole saw to cut through from one hole to the other but making these cuts is very onerous, for one its hard to get the pressure required to get the cut through without trying to balance the wood so that the saw is cutting downwards (otherwise I'm trying to cut sideways or in some weird position) and I also have problems with the depth of the wood, particularly if the hole is not drilled all the way through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) &lt;strong&gt;Jigsaw&lt;/strong&gt; - I have some quite long bits for my jigsaw but nowhere near long enough.  I bought a reciprocal saw as I was able to get a 12&quot; blade for it but it seemed to cut very slowly, suffer from absolutely &lt;em&gt;horrible&lt;/em&gt; amounts of vibration, and I still had the problem of getting the blade through (admittedly could be resolved with an extender or a longer spade bit on my drill) and because the blade was so long I had my doubts about it being able to make the turns required to cut the circle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5) &lt;strong&gt;Chainsaw&lt;/strong&gt; - for a brief time (before I actually handled a petrol chainsaw) I had considered making plunge cuts with a chainsaw through the wood but now see a number of issues.  For one oil from the blade might affect the final finish on the wood and plunging a chainsaw into an 8-9&quot; cut just seems to be asking for the chain to bind and then either get perma-stuck in the wood or develop into some unanticipated and likely not very funny distribution of kinetic energy towards the delicate meatbag holding it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6) &lt;strong&gt;Lathe&lt;/strong&gt; - I don't have one but also I can't imagine it would take the weight of such a large chunk of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7) &lt;strong&gt;Circle-cutter drill bit&lt;/strong&gt; - I once had one of these that went maybe 10-11&quot; across maximum.  I haven't since looked or found a larger one but in any case the one I had wouldn't have been able to cut deeply enough to take the entire centre out, so all I would get is a circle groove which isn't much use.  My previous experience with hole saws and circle cutters is things get more difficult the deeper you get so I would think this would be problematic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm running low on ideas at this point as to how I get it done.  The drill-and-saw-through method might work but it seems an inordinate amout of work.  Probably the best I can think of is to spend a lot of money on a large bandsaw with a large throat depth, then build some kind of large adjustable height platform which would allow me to make the cut from one side, turn it round and then exit from another or the same side, then re-glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If someone has a solution whereby I can cut it into two halves (also not easy, best I can come up with here is some major elbow grease with a long-blade handsaw or again back to a bandsaw with large throat depth?), and then hollow it out then that would be interesting for other reasons too since I seem to often find myself wanting to hollow out shapes/curves/semicircles of wood which wouldn't be doable on a lathe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update for anyone interested:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to try some of these options before accepting an answer but it's taken me a while to get round to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried my preferred option by making a bow saw from a modern blade and some custom wood.  The saw turned out OK and was able to saw a test piece no problems but because the depth of the cut it had to be able to make to cut the outer ring of the wood was so large it ended up being a very tall saw (around 80cm):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DTjz7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DTjz7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;very deep bowsaw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This made it &lt;strong&gt;very cumbersome&lt;/strong&gt; to actually use.  If the saw is held higher up then its there's way too much leverage to force the blade along and make the cut and the saw blade just sticks and the whole saw tilts instead.  If held lower down then without the wrist strength of Hercules and Popeye combined the saw is just too hard to keep straight.  Cutting anything other than horizontally had similar problems of managing the weight and tilt.  I did eventually figure out a way around this by hooking a broom handle off a rafter and using it as a slide that I could lift and lower to adjust the angle of the saw.  With this I was able to get the saw going but found that for some reason it was very difficult to get it to follow the curve of the wood.  The back side of the cut seemed to curve slightly but the front side just wanted to go straight.   Even given quite significant torsion on the blade (see pic) there seemed to be no way to get it to curve.  Possibly the wood was just too thick for it to make the curve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iGUHq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iGUHq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;squint bowsaw cut&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I did find worked somewhat were auger bits which tracked very well (distinct from forstner bits which I hadn't realised and haven't tried) but which did need a wall-powered drill to have the power to get them through repeatedly and successfully.  I also found drill bit extenders which would allow me to get them all the way through although the extenders themselves are quite wide and mean I have to use a wider auger bit than I would like.  Even so, drilling so many holes and trying to get them to link up all the way through the depth of the wood is not easy and is very likely to end up needing further efforts to join the holes up from the underside due to them not being perfectly straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Auger bits are probably the best way to get the job done given my original requirements but it seems the only relatively quick and easy option is a bandsaw with a large throat depth, although possibly cutting the whole thing in half with a chainsaw and chopping bits out with that might be a good way to go if the centre wasn't important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="915" LastEditorUserId="915" LastEditDate="2015-10-03T22:31:45.350" LastActivityDate="2019-03-23T14:52:41.540" Title="How to cut the centre out of a large round of wood" Tags="|technique|tools|power-tools|drilling|turning|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2030" CreationDate="2015-07-18T13:34:17.130" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you want to do is uncommon and more of a niche thing.  I'm pretty sure most people in a similar situation just hollow out the log and not care much for the inner circle of wood.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going over your options, A bandsaw with a large enough throat would be the simplest course of action, you should be able to just cut out the center with one cut into the side.  to make it easier you could drill a hole (or more) through the log to help with turning the log around the blade.  I have a spade bit that is 16-18&quot; long and it did't cost much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lathe is certainly possible, but it will likely be the most expensive option.  First you need a large lathe.  lathe's with a 20&quot;+ swing generally start at $3K.  Lathes like mine are cheaper, starting closer to $1800, where the motor can move and can do outboard turning.  But at that point you need an outboard piece to actually work the lathe and the cheapest I've seen for purchase is $500 (Family member made one for me from scrap iron).  And then making the through cuts will likely need a special tool to make a narrow deep cut through the log.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just cutting the log in half, a bandsaw is certainly the easiest way to do that though a chainsaw isn't too bad either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you really need is a powered coping saw or a scroll saw with a throat large enough to take your piece of wood.  You drill on hole through, just large enough for the blade the the blade can go through the hole then be attached to the saw.  Unfortunately most I've seen have a max of about 3&quot; throat.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't mind a lot of work, the coping saw could work if you can find one with a deep throat, since the standard one is 6 1/2&quot;.  You could of course make one specially.  You could also make the blades out of bandsaw blades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The homemade coping saw is likely your best option, and if you did this a lot I'd think about putting a motor on it.  In either case, I would buy one or two long spade bits to drill through the depth you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T13:34:17.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2030" CreationDate="2015-07-18T15:50:17.587" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You tagged powertools but, much like you, I don't own the the types of tools that would do this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you might have a hard time getting a uniform curve I would suggest you use a bow saw.  You could just follow the natural curve of the log which would look just as well. Traditional or modern bow saws should both work. Using a wider blade with deep gullets would be advised for this method. Bow saw are used for crosscutting &lt;em&gt;but&lt;/em&gt; you can also use them for curves. Below you will see picture of a traditional bow saw and then a modern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nfiCo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Traditional Bow Saw&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/projects/14543&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;LumberJocks&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DfZM0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DfZM0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Modern Bow Saw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.benmeadows.com/images/xl/Bow-Saws-BEN_i_VS_165729.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;benmeadows.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.topoequipos.com/topoequipos2.0/herramientas-forestales/herramientas-forestales&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;topoequipos&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage you would be getting here is that you just need to drill a hole large enough for the blade and then you could assemble the blade inside the hole. No welding needed!. The blade won't even curve that much as you move around the log so you should have no problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Side Note&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't mention how green this wood is. Removing the heart wood from the piece in question should help reduce the chance of splitting but just know that if your wood is still not at a regulated moisture level (which is possible with a  piece that large) I would expect cracking to some degree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2019-03-23T14:52:41.540" LastActivityDate="2019-03-23T14:52:41.540" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2030" CreationDate="2015-07-18T18:49:38.113" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the shop I worked in, we welded our band saw blades together from a big roll of blade. The band saw was also big enough to easily fit your workpiece. It was in a primarily metal workshop but we did have the big toothed blades for woodworking. This setup would allow you to drill a through hole to fit the blade, then weld the blade while through the wood, install the blade, cut the wood, and then cut the blade off. So if you can find a big shop near you they might have a similar setup and be willing to help you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="918" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T18:49:38.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2011" CreationDate="2015-07-18T19:55:17.437" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Avoid using a climbing cut for any normal cuts. However, with the help of a sled, Matthias Wandel has shown you can use an extremely shallow reverse cut on the lower face to avoid tear out on the following normal-direction cut. I'm not completely sold on his analogy to the reverse-spinning blade on some high end saws, but as he writes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This should only be done if the stock can be securely held, such as on a &lt;a href=&quot;http://woodgears.ca/delta_saw/sled.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;crosscut sled&lt;/a&gt;. The scoring cut should only be about a millimeter deep, so that there is not enough for the blade to grab hold of, as cutting backwards across a sawblade is generally not the safest thing to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;From Matthias Wandel's &lt;a href=&quot;http://woodgears.ca/shop-tricks/tearout.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Avoiding tearout when cutting veneered sheets&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note as well that his phrase &quot;is generally not the safest thing to do,&quot; should be interpreted as if he had said &quot;is not safe.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="485" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T19:55:17.437" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2030" CreationDate="2015-07-18T20:27:15.180" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would it be possible to split the log with an axe and wedges, make the hole somehow, and then glue the pieces together again?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You will demolish the wood at the axe's and wedges' entry points but the rest should, with some care, be ripped apart along the grain. Carefully gluing together again should be invisible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T20:27:15.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="235" CreationDate="2015-07-18T20:33:29.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't bother measuring distance between edge of saw plate and blade. Make your own guide rail instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a piece of something flat (plywood, hardboard (i have used a 5mm sheet of plastic and second time a piece of diy floor board)) and glue/screw something straight on to it. Place your saw against the Straight edge and saw away. Now the Flat will be cut &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; where the blade is. Finally clamp your home made guide rail to the board you want to cut and saw away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastEditorUserId="923" LastEditDate="2015-07-21T21:33:16.383" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T21:33:16.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2030" CreationDate="2015-07-18T23:31:33.613" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would try to get a hole in the middle and then work with a hammer and chisel (best a round one) towards the edges. If precision is not that important and you want to follow the outline rather than have a perfect circle, that should be good enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chisel#Woodworking&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Carving chisels&lt;/a&gt; sounds most like what I would use but my English is bad:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also try to create the initial hole with a chisel. Sounds like a lot of work, but you learn to use the tool and you don't need to go to the gym. ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the wiki images says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A sharp wood chisel in combination with a forstner wood drill bit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That might be a good way too, drill as deep as you can, then chisel away the rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="920" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-07-19T00:12:36.700" LastActivityDate="2015-07-19T00:12:36.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2030" CreationDate="2015-07-18T23:55:18.387" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Someone with an industrial CNC laser- or water-cutting machine might be able to do this for you at a reasonable cost. 8-9&quot; is thicker than I have experience with, but might be possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had a blade welder, you might also be able to drill a hole near the circle you want to cut, thread a bandsaw blade through it, weld the blade together, and then install the blade (with workpiece already on it) into your bandsaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="921" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T23:55:18.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2030" CreationDate="2015-07-19T09:26:21.040" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you've already hit on the best way(s) to remove the bulk of the material without going overboard on costs, but aren't using the right tool for the job. Drilling adjoining or adjacent holes I think are the best ways to approach this for the average user, just not using a spade bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd probably use an auger bit in a brace if I had to do a job like this, since this would be the cheapest option for me. For you, buying a suitable bit for your power drill that's similar to an old-style auger bit may be your best bet. These can be found with lengths in excess of 9&quot; / 23cm (in fact bits longer than 2' / 60cm are available) so you wouldn't have to resort to drilling in from both sides of the round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted to go with separate holes followed by breaking through the web between them this type of bit will greatly aid the process because they track very well; their design is specifically to allow the creation of long straight holes, in this regard far far better than a spade bit. So you could go from a spacing of 10mm to just a couple of millimetres. But with auger-style bits you could probably successfully drill the holes adjoining if you go slow, that's how well they track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleaning up afterwards is still going to be a lot of work! Probably best done mostly with hand tools, so this will be a slow, tedious job but hopefully worth it in the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-07-19T09:26:21.040" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2040" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-19T12:59:52.723" Score="9" ViewCount="7205" Body="&lt;p&gt;While not the focus of the question I wanted to point out that when it comes to drill presses I almost always see forstner bits suggested here at WW (for good reason of course).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much to my surprise in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/2039/128&quot;&gt;this answer from Graphus&lt;/a&gt; he suggested using auger bits instead. He mentions that depth of cut and price are key factors in choosing auger bits. Albeit a drill press was not the tool he suggested but I was still surprised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Understandably spade bits would be at the bottom of choice but when it comes to making holes in wood what criteria would make me choose auger bits over something like a forstner? The latter I have come to understand are superior.  Maybe they are but only under certain conditions? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible those are the answers and that maybe forstner bits should only be used in drill presses. If nothing else this can be a place for that answer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T16:41:15.510" Title="Do auger bits have advantages?" Tags="|drilling|drill-bits|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2040" CreationDate="2015-07-19T13:29:24.190" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problems with forstner bits is that they only have a portion of the bit (half an inch or so) that is as wide as the hole you are cutting. Whereas with an auger the entire length of the auger is as wide as the hole. This helps keep the hole straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forstner bits usually have short shafts (though there are shaft extenders). Augers on the other hand are much longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result of this is that an auger bit is better to drill deep holes and when you can't control the drill as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2015-07-19T13:29:24.190" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2042" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2050" CreationDate="2015-07-19T15:51:32.580" Score="12" ViewCount="4344" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about a year into learning to turn on an inexpensive mini-&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.harborfreight.com/5-speed-bench-top-wood-lathe-65345.html&quot;&gt;lathe&lt;/a&gt;. I mostly turn small lidded boxes or bowls. With both boxes and bowls, I like them big, so I'm often within an inch or two of the width capacity of the lathe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I turn mostly walnut or spalted maple, though I'm not sure if that makes a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The machine is a great starter lathe, but because it is a pain to change speeds, I end up using the slowest speed almost all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, &lt;strong&gt;am I missing something when I go from roughing all the way to final sanding/polish using only the slowest speed?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main problems I notice in my finished pieces are tear-out that leaves a rough feel on two sides of the piece, no matter how long or attentively I work my way up the grits (I start at 80 and go all the way up to 800 most of the time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess my pieces take longer than the folks I admire on Youtube, but I can't tell if that is due to the slow speed, my hesitation, my tools, or the videos' editing...or a combination of all three.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be really helpful to hear &lt;strong&gt;the ways you recognize while you're working that you can or should increase the speed&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="292" LastActivityDate="2019-01-09T14:55:03.430" Title="How do I know when my lathe speed is wrong or could be better?" Tags="|technique|turning|lathe|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2042" CreationDate="2015-07-19T20:39:32.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found that it is best to start out with a slow speed at first while the piece you are working is still not rounded.  For bowls, usually they are pretty wobbily, so turning up the speed is a bad idea since the lathe will start jumping around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, once the piece is nicely rounded and the center of mass is more or less in line with the axis of rotation, it is time to turn up the speed.  Increasing speed will result in a cleaner cut and smoother finish, in my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, are you keeping your tools sharp enough?  That could explain the tear out.  Additionally, I like to go from using gouges for roughing and finishing using scrapers.  After using the scrapers, I've usually got a pretty smooth surface that requires little sanding and burnishing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2015-07-19T20:39:32.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2042" CreationDate="2015-07-20T04:35:44.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the same lathe and agree it's a great starter lathe, and that the speed change is a major PITA!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also don't change the speed often (or at all really), but instead of leaving it on the lowest speed, I leave it in the middle - slow enough to not be &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; dangerous for starting, but fast enough to get a reasonable cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question directly, I think the general rule is you should go as fast as you (safely) can as it will cut cleaner and faster. You only want the lower speeds for starting large, untrue forms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="282" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T04:35:44.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2040" CreationDate="2015-07-20T05:05:57.963" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the greatest advantages of an auger bit is in its name--it works like an auger, carrying away the chips and shavings that it produces.  Auger bits are also available in very long sizes and are very rigid (i.e., they won't flex as easily as spade bits).  They work best in low-speed, high-torque tools, including both power drills and hand braces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the design clears chips better than a twist bit and you can buy auger bits up to 2 feet long, you can often drill very deep holes all the way through without having to take an extra step for chip removal as you would with a long twist or Forstner bit.  Bosch has an &lt;a href=&quot;http://boschdaredevil.com/accessory-tips/general-auger-bit-facts/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; outlining some benefits and common applications of auger bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As ratchet freak pointed out, the design also inherently allows you to drill a straight hole once the hole is started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-07-21T16:41:15.510" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T16:41:15.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2042" CreationDate="2015-07-20T05:34:35.957" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;am I missing something when I go from roughing all the way to final sanding/polish using only the slowest speed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Try increasing the speed and see for yourself.&lt;/strong&gt; You could even just pay attention to the difference between working at the perimeter of a large piece compared to working at the center -- the linear speed will be 5x greater at the edge of a 10&quot; diameter piece than it is 1&quot; from the center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;tear-out that leaves a rough feel on two sides &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're getting actual tear out, more speed (and very sharp tools) will help. That said, end grain feels different than long grain, so you're always going to have some difference. To get a smooth finish all the way around you'll need to &lt;strong&gt;fill the pores&lt;/strong&gt; with a grain filler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How do I know when my lathe speed is wrong or could be better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to try working at different speeds so that you know which speeds give you the best results in which situations. If your tools are sharp but aren't cutting as well as you think they should, speed is likely part of the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T05:34:35.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2047" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2162" CreationDate="2015-07-20T06:01:01.160" Score="10" ViewCount="3501" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose the table is of x height and y width. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have to construct a chair for that table, how would I know what height should it be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-08-03T22:49:26.433" LastActivityDate="2016-09-08T13:52:16.450" Title="How should I calculate the height of the chair needed for a table?" Tags="|technique|furniture|design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2040" CreationDate="2015-07-20T12:51:27.787" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Augur bits generally have longer shafts and can have much longer shafts, allowing for much deeper holes.  They also tend to be MUCH cheaper than Forsner bits, so often if you don't need what the Forsner bit is best at, nice flat bottom holes and very smooth sides, the Augers are perfectly fine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As rob and ratchet said, augers also are designed better to drill straight holes when drilling by hand.  Such as through studs for running electric.  I only use my Forsner bits in my drill press.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T12:51:27.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2042" CreationDate="2015-07-20T13:10:52.840" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, speed can make a huge difference.  My first lathe was a PSI midi-lathe (not mini) and it required stopping the lathe, opening a panel, and switching the belt to another set of pulley's.  A pain.  However, you need to do it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it is recommended to have it slower for unbalanced pieces (roughing it to a cylinder), speeding it up will make a lot of things better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slower speeds don't always cut as cleanly and need a sharper blade to do a good job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To improve your finish, you can do several things.  speed up the lathe will allow for cleaner cuts. When you get near the end, sharpen the chisel and the will also help make cleaner sharper cuts and not tear the wood, which causes the rough spots, especially on the end grain.  Last by going faster it dramatically improves the ability to sand the piece quickly and well.  I tend after all the cutting is done, to speed up the lathe anyway just for the sanding.  It really does help a lot.  The time it takes to change the speed is made up in how much faster you can get your piece finished and it looks so much better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T13:10:52.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2025" CreationDate="2015-07-20T17:18:35.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a point of comparison, I operate a router table without a fence or guide roughly half of the time that I use one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if I am making picture frames, I will use a rabbet bit with a guide bearing to rout out the space at the inside-back of the frame where the glass and picture go.  If one uses push blocks and keeps one's hands sufficiently far from the bit, there is little danger involved.  If I am doing a simple edge profile on the frame (roundover, ogee, etc.) I will use the bit's built-in guide as well and not worry about trying to set the fence &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, I have seen people us a router totally freehand (no bearing on the bit and no table) for a few purposes (&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/wstc0lPwyA4?t=8m42s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;clearing the waste from dovetails&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/U3Q58SKDAEA?t=25m38s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;inlay&lt;/a&gt; for two examples).  It can be dangerous if you don't know what you're doing, especially if you try to take too big of a cut.  You also have to be &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; cognizant of grain and keep a firm grip on the router to keep it from skating all over and ruining your piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T17:18:35.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2052" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2053" CreationDate="2015-07-20T19:19:31.640" Score="16" ViewCount="79532" Body="&lt;p&gt;We all occasionally have to replace a tool handle, be it an axe, a shovel, a sledge, whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The standard handle materials seem to be hickory and ash.  I've bought my share of hickory handles from hardware stores and have no issues with them.  I use ash for lathe tool handles and have used it for file handles as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently I made a hatchet handle out of osage orange (hedge).  Historically, osage was used for bows in the southern US, and I've heard legends that an osage bow was worth a horse and a blanket (that's just hearsay, don't quote me on it).  It seems to be holding up well, as I would expect from a dense, springy wood.  Also, I expect the hatchet head to rust out before the handle rots due to osage's extreme longevity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FZKRR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FZKRR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;osage handle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magichammer.freeservers.com/tool_handles.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;One website&lt;/a&gt; states that hickory and ash are really the only (US domestic) woods worth using.  I've thought about trying black locust, also due to its rot resistance and toughness, but this is not readily available in the Chicagoland area.  Another &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/501198-Axe-handle-question&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;forum thread&lt;/a&gt; discusses suitable woods in terms of vibration transference.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://axeconnected.blogspot.com/2013/03/weak-handles-revisited.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This website&lt;/a&gt; also seems to suggest using whatever is available locally and not worrying too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, &lt;strong&gt;what other woods are suitable for tool handles based on your experience?&lt;/strong&gt;  Sometimes, you just get better results making your own handles than buying them at the store, so knowing which species work (and which species last under use, abuse, and time) would be very helpful.  Note that I am more concerned with &quot;long&quot; tool handles, not so much short ones like one would see on a plane or a screwdriver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-09-01T16:13:44.123" LastActivityDate="2021-09-24T11:01:12.020" Title="What are some suitable woods to use for tool handles?" Tags="|tools|hand-tools|wood-selection|handle|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2052" CreationDate="2015-07-21T10:45:35.190" Score="15" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One website states that hickory and ash are really the only (US domestic) woods worth using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously just one man's opinion and a gross over-simplification. It's also inherently misleading because it's light on detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I originally repeated here the (supposedly) sage advice that it is sapwood only that you want in the handles for striking tools, but it turns out that this is another long-standing myth&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This website also seems to suggest using whatever is available locally and not worrying too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this is worth paying attention to as they make many sage points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what other woods are suitable for tool handles.... Note that I am more concerned with &amp;quot;long&amp;quot; tool handles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hate to say it but it might best be summarised as: forget the species, what's &lt;em&gt;this piece&lt;/em&gt; like?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood is inherently a variable material, so one piece of hickory (or ash, poplar, oak, willow, yew, walnut, birch, etc. etc.) is not equal to another. And no single piece is quantified by a broad description of the species, no matter how accurate that description is in general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another consideration: beyond the species, beyond the flexibility or the shock-absorbency of the wood chosen, grain orientation in the handle is perhaps of equal or &lt;em&gt;greater&lt;/em&gt; significance. The most obvious aspect of this is the grain should be aligned with the axis of force when the tool is in use (it should run front-to-back in the eye of the tool head). Additionally, for a long haft grain run-out should be minimal or absent. Both points are well summarised in this diagram from a US Forest Service handbook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KHA3S.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An extensive guide to axes which includes a section on 'hanging' that you might find informative:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fhwa.dot.gov/environment/recreational_trails/publications/fs_publications/pdf/pdf99232823.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;An Ax to Grind: A Practical Ax Manual&lt;/a&gt;. The author is firmly in favour of hickory!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Despite how often this is still repeated as Stuff You Should Listen To, handed down from old timers who &amp;quot;really know their stuff&amp;quot;, this was debunked before most of those old timers were born! The following quotes from a 1966 pamphlet put out by the Forest Products Laboratory, but the research this is based on actually started &lt;strong&gt;before WWI&lt;/strong&gt; (the earliest reference to it that I have found is from 1913).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;In over 500,000 tests made by the Forest Products Laboratory on woods grown in the United States, no effect upon the  mechanical  properties of the wood due to its change from sapwood into heartwood  has  been  found  in  most species.&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And specific to our interest here, it goes on to say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;...nor is the sapwood of hickory and ash intrinsically  stronger than the heartwood, as is sometimes claimed in connection with handle stock.&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-09-24T11:01:12.020" LastActivityDate="2021-09-24T11:01:12.020" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2054" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2055" CreationDate="2015-07-21T12:12:39.023" Score="11" ViewCount="15884" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the below design which really violates the mechanical use for a breadboard, assuming that I were otherwise building a farmhouse table with pocket screws, what would be the appropriate way to mount a functional breadboard end in this scenario?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XWZ9q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;picture of false breadboard end&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2016-09-10T21:04:19.317" Title="How does one properly mount a breadboard end?" Tags="|joinery|wood-movement|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2054" CreationDate="2015-07-21T13:07:03.903" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can think of a couple options for mounting a breadboard, which you will have to adapt to suit your tools and skill set:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use biscuits to join the breadboard to the rest of the top (not necessarily the best option since you have a continuous glue line across the width of the top) (source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/wp-content/uploads/9855_5F00_061.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Popular Woodworking&lt;/a&gt;)&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/icU6B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;biscuits&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mortise &amp;amp; tenon joints (note the elongated holes for the pegs) (source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alladd.com/cutting-boards-mortised/pinned-tenon-detail-500.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;AlLadd.com&lt;/a&gt;)&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bY4lu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;M&amp;amp;T&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dowels and/or screws (also not necessarily the best option as-shown due to expansion/contraction concerns) (source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/wp-content/uploads/dowelsandscrews2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Popular Woodworking&lt;/a&gt;)&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g1FB7.png&quot; alt=&quot;dowels/screws&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sliding dovetail (source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/wp-content/uploads/slidingdovetailbb1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Popular Woodworking&lt;/a&gt;)&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tVp3M.png&quot; alt=&quot;sliding DT&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tongue &amp;amp; Groove with (optional) dowels (thanks @TX Turner) (source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/comments/2pz5zf/this_is_what_happens_when_breadboard_ends_are_not/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Reddit&lt;/a&gt;).  For this one, the tongue can also extend to the end of the breadboard, similar to the sliding dovetail example above.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qUliR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;T&amp;amp;G&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you probably know, when you make the joint, you want to keep the width-wise expansion of the top in mind so that the breadboard ends don't crack the top.  This usually means you positively-attach the breadboards in the middle (with glue or fasteners) and allow the ends to float.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-07-22T16:29:46.057" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T16:29:46.057" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2056" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2060" CreationDate="2015-07-21T16:39:59.500" Score="9" ViewCount="3832" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am refinishing an old Remington 870 stock birch stock. I stained it with a dark cherry colored stain, and then began to apply &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000I1QA6E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hope's 100% tung oil&lt;/a&gt;. I had read to wait at least a day before sanding and applying the next coat, though &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/573/how-long-does-it-take-tung-oil-to-cure&quot;&gt;that&lt;/a&gt; seems to be a short period of time. However, when I sanded the stock, much of the stain I had applied was removed along with the tung oil (if I recall correctly, I was using 340 grit paper, and I had cut the first application of oil about 50% with mineral spirits). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided to restain the whole stock, and ended up staining it several times, letting it dry and wiping down with mineral spirits to remove the tackiness between each coat (I know that multiple coats are generally advised against, but the birch wasn't accepting the stain evenly and this helped me get a fairly even, nice stain). The stock is now fully dry (wiped the access stain off a day or two later with the help of mineral spirits, and then let dry for a week). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My question is&lt;/strong&gt;: is there a way to properly apply tung oil to the stained wood without removing the stain during the sanding process? Do I simply need to wait longer for it to dry, not sand between the first couple of coats, use a finer grit sandpaper, or what?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Bonus question&lt;/em&gt;: This being my first woodworking project, my sanding left something to be desired. There are very minor sanding marks in the wood that I didn't notice before staining. They are mostly in the same direction of the grain of the wood, but a few of the swirls I didn't match perfectly. Is there anything I can do to fix this without removing the stain and starting over? It doesn't bother me very much, but I would feel unacceptably lazy if I didn't even make an effort to fix it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dt3q8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dt3q8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sanded down picture of stock&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6eD6V.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6eD6V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Stock after being stained&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="928" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T16:32:47.110" Title="How do I prevent stain from being removed during sanding?" Tags="|sanding|staining|tung-oil|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2056" CreationDate="2015-07-21T17:58:48.290" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The sanding between coats is entirely for the keeping a smooth finish.  Any bubbles or raised grain are knocked back.  When I sand, I rarely pass the sand paper more than a couple light passes. then check for visual and touch cues to see if anything more needs some extra sanding, say a drip that dried.  If you are sanding away the stain you are sanding too much.  It is also possible, especially with cutting the finish down, that you might not need to sand between each coat.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T17:58:48.290" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2056" CreationDate="2015-07-21T20:28:32.920" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something that nobody's mentioned so far is that if your stain isn't penetrating, you've got another problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there's a previous finish still on top of the wood, forming a seal, stain won't penetrate, and the least bit of sanding will remove it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;'Sticky stain' is a very common symptom for this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's the case, you might want to try to strip it again, and try a wash with something like acetone, lacquer thinner, mineral spirits, and / or turpentine. One of those should cut the finish and allow the stain to penetrate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T20:28:32.920" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2052" CreationDate="2015-07-22T03:51:58.690" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another consideration is the wood's effect on steel. Some woods like oak have acidic tannins in them that stain and promote rust, so oak is rarely used for that reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="837" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T03:51:58.690" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2056" CreationDate="2015-07-22T10:53:39.960" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My question is: is there a way to properly apply tung oil to the stained wood without removing the stain during the sanding process? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yup: &lt;em&gt;don't sand&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drying oils are not a surface coating, they're a penetrating finish, so basically there's nearly no difference between sanding oiled wood and directly sanding the surface of the stained wood, which many guides specifically warn not to do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even when sanding a film-building finish (shellac, varnish, lacquer) great care must be exercised not to sand too much as if you break through the finish you can almost immediately reveal bare wood because stain penetration is extremely shallow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drying oils don't need to have the previous application sanded if they're applied appropriately. While it's become common advice to sand or scuff the surface when applying subsequent coats of tung oil in particular, but BLO as well, this is by no means the only way to do it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The traditional method for applying drying oils specified that the surface should be wiped extremely thoroughly after application and in fact buffed hard with the wiping cloth, which ensures removal of all excess oil from the surface, and simultaneously burnishes the surface of the wood. Both of which were considered vital to the development of a good oiled finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There are very minor sanding marks in the wood that I didn't notice before staining. ... Is there anything I can do to fix this without removing the stain and starting over? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically your options are scraping or sanding to remove the marks, unless you switch to a film finish which can hide minor surface defects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An oiled finish magnifies flaws, doesn't hide them, which is why surface prep for an oiled finish must be done more conscientiously than if using varnish, e.g. sanding to a higher grit. FYI when varnishing there's no benefit to sanding beyond about 220 grit and in fact you can often get away with stopping at 150, while if you're doing an oil finish it can be advisable to sand beyond 400.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus answer to a point in one of your comments above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've read that with tung oil the first couple coats will get fully sanded away and the pulp mixture will fill in all of the imperfections in the surface&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's true to a degree but actually not the ideal way to go about doing this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to fill pores in the wood it's &lt;em&gt;far&lt;/em&gt; preferable to use a grain filler, either homemade or commercial. Preferable because the results can be superior, and you get there faster and more reliably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you might ask, homemade grain filler can be made from fine sanding dust (220 grit or higher) mixed with varnish; some people use oil as the binder but varnish sets harder and faster so it's preferable. You could also experiment with using wood glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T10:53:39.960" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="320" CreationDate="2015-07-22T19:50:20.257" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just like what everyone else is saying, do not go at it with a chisel. A chisel is not an efficient tool for the job. If you have access to a machining shop, they will do it for you at almost no cost at all. For the sake of the saw and chisel, do not do what you are suggesting unless you meant a file and mistakenly said chisel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="934" LastEditorUserId="22" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T01:54:28.753" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T01:54:28.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2062" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-23T03:07:58.397" Score="9" ViewCount="6441" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to start getting into sharpening and honing so naturally one of the ways I could go would be to get some sandpaper in the 500 + grit count range. (That decision is based off a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ki8tt-VjwqI&quot;&gt;great video I saw from Paul Sellers&lt;/a&gt; that suggest this being a more economical method when starting out. )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At most home improvement stores, in the sections where I normally find sandpaper, the highest grit count I will come across is around 320. However, in automotive sections I find the higher grit counts I am looking for which is usually up to 2000! They are advertised as wet/dry paper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is all the very fine/high grit count paper actually wet/dry sandpaper? Is wet/dry just a gimmick of terms? If I find anything with the right grit count does it matter what kind of paper it is (assuming there are multiple kinds)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T14:15:56.123" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T20:05:51.300" Title="Is all fine grit count sandpaper called wet/dry?" Tags="|finishing|sharpening|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2062" CreationDate="2015-07-23T03:36:39.400" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;When polishing metals, it is quite common to use very fine grit (high grit count) sandpaper. I use it frequently. It's also recommended to use up to 1500 grit sandpaper when preparing certain wood surfaces prior to oiling with certain products – I did it recently with some Oregon when using a citrus oil and it was smooth as a baby's bottom afterwards (and it smelled amazing too)!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With 2000 grit wet/dry plus metal polisher I have managed to get mild steel to basically look like a mirror. Doing that will give you a workout, I can tell you that. It makes polishing aluminium a breeze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wet/Dry sandpaper is not an oxymoron, it literally means one can use the paper as-is (i.e. 'dry') or with some abrasive/'polishing' liquid such as Brasso (i.e. 'wet'). Think of the way you use a cleaning or polishing product with a cloth, this is literally how it works. Wet/Dry sandpaper often is a bit more expensive as the paper ground is tolerant (i.e. it has something of a resist) to the wetness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technically the misnomer is the word 'sandpaper': Wet/Dry is not traditional glass/sand beaded paper normally used on wood but a very fine carborundum grit paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the majority market for these fine grit papers is for (metal) polishing where an abrasive compound can make a huge difference, this is why pretty much all very fine sandpaper is Wet/Dry. But you can easily get 500 grit paper in the other standard paper substrates at most home improvement/building stores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check this quick video out which as an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XutQzr7-PI0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How to polish a dirt bike frame&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the video by Paul Sellers is much more instructive, he just takes it as a given that you know what wet/dry 'sandpaper' is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="936" LastEditorUserId="936" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T19:52:18.447" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T19:52:18.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2064" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2067" CreationDate="2015-07-23T04:30:37.717" Score="8" ViewCount="5360" Body="&lt;p&gt;So obviously with an outside patio you'd use exterior stain, and a bedroom desk you'd use interior stain. But I have no idea what type of stain to use for wood that's located in the garage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The garage steps and shelves don't get much of any direct sunlight. They will definitely get dust/dirt/mud/grass/snow/water from time to time. The temperature of the garage varies from 15 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it safe/OK to use exterior stain for these even though I doubt it's recommended? Is it OK to use interior stain for these, even though they will likely receive much more abuse than indoor furniture? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do plan on using sealer/finish as well. Maybe I'll use the all in one kind of stain or do stain then sealer/finish. What do you suggest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nAKaPm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z2hIXm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="126" LastEditorUserId="126" LastEditDate="2015-07-27T15:49:20.893" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T19:57:13.910" Title="Interior or Exterior stain for garage steps and shelves?" Tags="|finishing|staining|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2062" CreationDate="2015-07-23T10:55:26.493" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So is all the very fine grit count paper actually wet/dry sandpaper? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. You can get regular papers that go to 400, 600 and even 800 grit (or equivalents). But as a broad generalisation if you see paper that's dark grey, with dark backing paper, it'll be the wet-and-dry type even if it doesn't specifically call itself that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is wet/dry just a gimmick of terms?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, absolutely not. They use a waterproof adhesive, and the paper itself is resin impregnated to make it water-resistant (you notice it when you try to saturate it and the water initially beads up on the back). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regular sandpaper the adhesive can be very water-soluble and the paper itself will just fall apart if dampened (note: with water).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you didn't ask about this but I would recommend you not go with sharpening on abrasive paper. Inexpensive diamond plates and oilstones are available and one or both are a much better intro to sharpening and far far better value, not just in the long term but even initially since high-grit paper can be fairly pricey. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as the final step I always recommend stropping and always with a homemade strop... woodworkers who buy strops should hand in their woodworking cards :-) As Paul Sellers explains and demonstrates stropping gives that final refinement to your edges in a fast, economical and user-friendly manner. It makes the difference between a sharp edge and a really keen edge in older parlance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T10:55:26.493" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2064" CreationDate="2015-07-23T11:22:23.517" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to clarify some terminology here (although manufacturers love to muddy these waters!) stain should refer to a product that colours the wood &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt;, after which you would add a protective layer with your chosen finish or topcoat (varnish, lacquer). Coloured topcoats are now very commonly called stain right on the tin, which is an unfortunate source of confusion for consumers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, assuming you are referring to a &quot;stain and finish&quot; combination product (in essence, coloured varnish) the choice isn't really between exterior or interior for this application, because it has to withstand foot traffic it's really more about whether the finish is OK to use on floors. This should be specified somewhere on the labelling, if it's not tough enough for that there will be a disclaimer such as &lt;strong&gt;Not suitable for use on floors&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T11:22:23.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2064" CreationDate="2015-07-23T11:55:25.090" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you are talking about stain only (no integral top coat of varnish or similar), there is no reason an interior stain won't work in your garage, nor is there any reason an exterior-grade stain is unacceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, exterior-grade stains contain extra UV and weather resistance, with a corresponding increase in price. You have no concerns from that front in a garage, hence indoor stain is fine. Exterior stain is fine as well, just maybe a little overkill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@Graphus brings up a good point about foot traffic, which should be kept in mind for your stairs.  Per &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.curtislumber.com/choosing-stain.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt;, deck stains have scuff resistant compounds for extra resistance to foot traffic, which may be beneficial for your staircase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For sealer/finish, it depends on what in particular you're talking about.  For the stairs, you'll probably want some sort of deck sealer similar to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thompsonswaterseal.com/waterproofing-products/waterproofing-stains/waterproofing-wood-protector-clear&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Thompson's Water Seal&lt;/a&gt; or any of its &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thompsonswaterseal.com/waterproofing-products/waterproofing-stains/waterproofing-stain-transparent&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tinted varieties&lt;/a&gt; for some additional color.  I wouldn't recommend the use of a finish like a varnish on the stairs due to the expected wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the shelves, you can go with a traditional stain and finish routine.  Personally, I'm not a fan of the stain and finish all-in-ones like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/one-step-stain-and-finishes/minwax-polyshades&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Minwax Polyshades&lt;/a&gt;.  I feel like they obscure the grain of the wood too much (granted, these are pine shelves in a garage, so you might not care a lot).  So, now you're looking at staining the wood first, letting it dry/cure, then applying a varnish of some sort on top.  For ease, I would use an oil-based stain, if you desire to stain the shelves.  If you allow the stain to properly dry/cure, you can use either an oil- or water-based polyurethane varnish, as discussed in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2068/can-i-apply-water-based-polyurethane-over-an-oil-based-stain/2069#2069&quot;&gt;Question&lt;/a&gt;.  I like the water-based polys since there is less time between coats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-07-28T19:57:13.910" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T19:57:13.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2068" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2069" CreationDate="2015-07-23T17:53:32.060" Score="18" ViewCount="208998" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently finished a dresser top in a very light gray oil based stain. Afterwards I applied a water based matte poly, because I didn't want any yellow tint to show on the light gray color (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1810/does-clear-oil-based-polyurethane-exist&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I have used a different combination? So far so good, but am I likely to have problems with poly adhesion in the future because I mismatched the base types of the stain and poly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2020-11-03T00:07:20.813" Title="Can I apply water-based polyurethane over an oil based stain?" Tags="|finishing|staining|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2068" CreationDate="2015-07-23T18:07:58.200" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;This should be ok if you gave the stain 3-4 days to properly dry out.  You'll want the oil-based drying agent to completely vaporize from the stain before applying the water-based finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.doityourself.com/forum/solid-hardwood-engineered-laminate-flooring/130518-water-based-poly-over-oil-based-stain.html&quot;&gt;this forum thread&lt;/a&gt;.  To quote from a Minwax representative:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;SUBJECT: Minwax Water Based Polyurethane Over Minwax Wood Finish&#xA;  Stains&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may apply the Minwax Water Based Polyurethane over a fully cured &#xA;  Minwax Wood Finish Stain (oil-based). Please use the following&#xA;  guidelines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To ensure the color fastness of Minwax Wood Finish prior to applying &#xA;  Minwax Water-Based Polyurethane:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Allow final coat of stain to dry 8-24 hours (Dry time is affected by&#xA;  your ventilation, temperature, and relative humidity).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Wipe down the stained surface using a soft, lint-free cloth dampened&#xA;  with 100% pure mineral spirits. If the stain is cured and inactive, &#xA;  the mineral spirits will not affect the color. You should not have &#xA;  any color pick-up onto the cloth. The mineral spirits will remove &#xA;  any active/excess stain from surface and help the stain to cure out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Allow the mineral spirits to evaporate/flash off the surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once the stain color is set and cured (passed the color-fast test), &#xA;  apply 3 coats of the Minwax Water Based Polyurethane per label&#xA;  directions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Sincerely, Consumer Affairs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-07-24T11:37:41.890" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T11:37:41.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2068" CreationDate="2015-07-23T18:16:42.350" Score="11" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can I apply water-based polyurethane over an oil based stain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short answer: yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Longer answer: if you wait for the oil-based stain to properly 'dry' (cure) it's no longer oily. This is because the curing process for oil is polymerisation, and polymerised oil is akin to resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So far so good, but am I likely to have problems with poly adhesion in the future because I mismatched the base types of the stain and poly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously the time between stain and varnish application will be a factor. But if you didn't experience major problems with beading of the waterbased poly as you were applying it I think you're OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to take an extra precaution you can use shellac as an intermediate coat. This can also be used to speed up the process because the shellac can go directly onto oiled wood &lt;em&gt;without waiting for the oil to dry&lt;/em&gt;. Then you can overcoat the shellac with your final finish after just waiting for the shellac to dry enough, perhaps as little as an hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with &quot;super-blonde&quot; shellac there's some yellow colour of course, but it's applied very thinly so the effect should be minimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T18:16:42.350" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2062" CreationDate="2015-07-24T20:05:51.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wet /dry is really a specification of how the paper has been fabricated and in particular what kind of adhesive. Wet paper uses a waterproof adhesive, and a waterproof backing which allows for continuous usage with water. The advantage of wet sanding is to clean the area up so the surface is not scratched by the debris build up, as well as keeping the paper clean ... other wise it would clog. Wet paper can also be used with solvents, for some time at least, until the adhesive is dissolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dry paper is just that, paper and it takes about 5 seconds to turn it into gritty sticky mush, when wet with water or solvents..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the higher grit ratings are for finer and finer surface sanding with water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have 24 grit Wet paper and trimkuts for the 4 1/2 inch angle grinder. the grit does not matter with the Wet Dry  or Dry types. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="785" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T20:05:51.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="884" CreationDate="2015-07-24T20:11:11.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drying = evaporation. Curing = chemical process of molecular change. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You clothes, elmers glue, and paints dry. 2 Part Epoxies Cure. Polyurethanes cure, the second part is water in the form of humidity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="785" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T20:11:11.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2075" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-25T03:18:54.313" Score="7" ViewCount="16279" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the link in this &lt;a href=&quot;http://news.thefinishingstore.com/index.php/why-shellac-is-my-go-to-finish-for-fine-furniture/&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt;, the author mentions spraying shellac.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any thing I should know before trying this out. Should I have a particular cut? Is there any tell tale signs I am using too much or too little air?&#xA;I assume I need to clean the gun properly after use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am also not sure how I should mount the piece in my 'spray booth'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="394" LastEditorUserId="394" LastEditDate="2015-07-25T04:55:14.230" LastActivityDate="2015-08-22T17:39:29.283" Title="Spraying Shellac" Tags="|technique|finishing|air-tools|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2076" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2079" CreationDate="2015-07-25T04:23:20.833" Score="17" ViewCount="2830" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my continuing attempts to learn all the things another question stemmed from watching a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ki8tt-VjwqI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;chisel sharpening video from Paul Sellers&lt;/a&gt;. When sharpening his new chisel (he explained that he does this to all his chisels) he removed the hard angled bevel and created a smooth convex bevel on his chisel. You can sort of see from the picture below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3qnc0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3qnc0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Soft convex bevel&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://ps-5e0.kxcdn.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2012/01/PICT00431-300x225.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;kxcdn.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think I missed an explanation as to &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; he chose to put that bevel beyond personal preference. I understand that chisels and plane irons can have different degrees of hard bevels but I don't see that being compared to a convex bevel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some practical reasons to put a convex bevel over maintaining the original hard angle that, in most cases, is already present? Or perhaps even making a concave bevel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel this question could apply to plane irons as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2023-01-26T13:38:27.633" LastActivityDate="2023-01-26T13:38:27.633" Title="What criteria would want me to bevel my chisel in a certain way" Tags="|hand-tools|plane|sharpening|chisel|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2076" CreationDate="2015-07-25T04:37:19.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are sharpening on a grinder -- including slow and wet-wheel grinders -- the face will tend to follow the curve of the convex wheel and become concave. A larger wheel, such as the full-sized Tormek machines and their equivalents, would produce a larger radius and thus a less-concave surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't imagine creating that shape any other way... and I'm more than half convinced that he's trying to claim that this is an advantage simply because he can't avoid it. It would mean the area directly behind the cutting edge is thinner, but also less well supported.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that every other sharpening method produces a flat there (except for the microbevel at the cutting edge, of course), and that traditional grinding wheels had even larger radii than the tormek -- and given the razor edges folks produce that way -- I don't think this is something you need to emulate. If you're using a smaller grinding wheel it will happen, and enough people have sharpened that way that I'm not sure you need to be paranoid about avoiding it either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just an artifact of one particular approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-07-25T04:37:19.893" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2076" CreationDate="2015-07-25T08:37:54.880" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've actually read Paul Seller's blog posts about sharpening a little while ago, and tried out his method on my chisels. Until now I used a sharpening jig to keep the straight factory bevel, and got the chisels pretty sharp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With Paul Seller's method of creating a convex bevel it's much easier to sharpen by hand (i.e. without the jig), and the process of sharpening goes much quicker for me (I have a cheap jig, which is quite fiddly to setup), while still production a similarly sharp edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From Paul Seller's explanations, the advantage of the convex bevel is in putting &lt;strong&gt;more&lt;/strong&gt; metal behind the cutting edge - due to the convex shape, the actual cutting angle might be 30-35 degrees, while the overall angle of the bevel is still the common 20-25 degrees (which Paul calls the macro-bevel). A micro-bevel give a similar benefit, but Paul claims it gives a weaker edge. One can think of the convex bevel as a large number of micro-bevels, starting from the maximal angle and slowly decreasing until reaching the overall bevel angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if the convex bevel has a real advantage over a micro-bevel (or just a single angle bevel) in edge endurance, but this is what Paul claims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my (short) experience with Paul's technique, the greatest advantage is ease of use when hand sharpening, without a jig. If you can already sharpen to a fixed bevel (with or without a micro-bevel) free-hand, then this probably doesn't matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2015-07-25T08:37:54.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2076" CreationDate="2015-07-25T08:55:09.177" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;TL;DR warning. Sharpening is a deep and broad subject, with a lot of opinion and personal preference interspersed with the facts and science so be prepared to have to make your own mind up, i.e. choose your reality and stick with it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I don't think I missed an explanation as to why he chose to put that bevel beyond personal preference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paul Sellers does specify in other videos that he thinks it produces a stronger edge, and also that the convexity allows the chisel — when used freehand in a bevel-down configuration — to glide into and out of a curving cut much more easily than if ground flat, which I can confirm from personal use (my chisel bevels have always tended to look like his, which I used to think was a failing but now embrace as a positive benefit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tendency towards forming a slight convexity is a natural consequence of the 'geometry' of human sharpening, which Sellers also explains in a couple of his videos. As your arms extend from closer to your body outwards to the end of the stone the presentation angle naturally gets slightly shallower, unless you're able to compensate for it with an almost robotic precision (usually only achieved with &lt;em&gt;long&lt;/em&gt; experience, literally years of practice in many cases) or via the use of a honing guide. Accepting that a curved bevel isn't a bad thing, that it doesn't in any way form a poorer edge (as old books often state outright!) you can just exaggerate the motion somewhat and then you achieve convex bevels in the style of Paul Sellers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re. the edge being stronger, although I use a convex bevel myself on any chisel I have re-ground completely I have to say I think this is irrelevant. It is very likely true, but it doesn't actually matter in practice. Here's why: the bevel style that's usually criticised for being the weakest — concave grind with a very narrow honed edge — is &lt;em&gt;almost never&lt;/em&gt; known to fail in normal use. I have read of only one or two cases where the edge crumpled and that was when used in tough hardwoods. But thousands upon thousands of woodworkers prepare their chisels this way and obviously don't experience failures, so that should be sufficient evidence that it's strong enough for most users in most applications. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: the last point is directly tied to &lt;em&gt;honing angle&lt;/em&gt;, which is a separate consideration to the style of the bevel. Regardless of grind style, a steep angle (30° or higher) will always be stronger than a shallower angle (25° or lower) for the same chisel simply because there is a greater thickness of metal behind the cutting edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What are some practical reasons to put a convex bevel over maintaining the original hard angle that, in most cases, is already present? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to clarify one thing quickly first, the majority of Western woodworkers today do not sharpen and then hone just the one bevel. It's extremely common practice, and has been for many years, to have the &lt;em&gt;honing angle&lt;/em&gt; be a little higher, often about 5°, than the sharpening or grinding angle (whether flat or concave if formed on a grinding wheel). This forms a secondary bevel which if very small and as shallow as 1-2° is sometimes referred to as a microbevel; I should stress here that although microbevels should be very very narrow by definition the distinction between the two is often arbitrary, to the point where I think the terms could be considered interchangeable as far as common usage goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we just take it that you have a new chisel with the factory grind on it (usually 25°) and if the metal of the chisel, the sharpening media used and the skill and patience of the user allow you can just sharpen and polish that bevel and the chisel will work well. A well-formed 25° bevel has extremely good cutting performance, but is not suitable for all chisels for all uses. A paring chisel can be sharpened at 20° (sometimes even a little shallower than this) to give superior slicing, bench chisels are commonly done at 25-30° and you can go up as high as 45°, although this is best suited for tough jobs like chopping out deep mortises and general work in very hard woods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Or perhaps even making a concave bevel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A concave grind is actually not uncommon, also referred to as &lt;em&gt;hollow ground&lt;/em&gt; particularly in knife circles. It's a natural consequence of sharpening a bevel on a rotating grindstone, whether very old-school and cranked by hand, on a bench grinder or on one of the high-end systems such as the Tormek. Whatever the radius of the grinding wheel is this radius will be ground into the chisel bevel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I feel this question could apply to plane irons as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edge geometry is much less relevant to most plane irons as they present their &lt;em&gt;backs&lt;/em&gt; to the work (usually dead flat) and not the bevel, as most planes today are bevel-down planes with a cap iron or chipbreaker clamped to the flat back of the blade to curl or 'break' shavings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is some slight relevance to bevel-up planes — single-iron planes, as is common with block planes — but such a tiny portion of the bevel interacts with the wood (the shavings only contact the first 0.5mm / 0.02&quot;, if that) that it is really only that portion of the blade that matters and this is almost always flat effectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the most common bevel profiles seen on Western chisels:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OlAuf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OlAuf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chisel bevel profiles&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;All&lt;/em&gt; of these are in use by someone and although there are specific advantages to some of them (even if only in shortening the time it takes to sharpen) they all can produce acceptable cutting performance. It is the honing angle and the smoothness of the metal right at the edge that are the two primary factors in how sharp a cutting edge actually is, not the bevel profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T12:26:53.363" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T12:26:53.363" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9" CreationDate="2015-07-25T17:48:59.703" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've only done this a couple times, but I have good luck turning a rough form (as @TxTurner notes) and then setting the bowl aside for a few months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My technique is, I keep all the shavings from the bowl I just turned and stuff those, along with the rough bowl, into a (plastic) shopping bag that I tie off. I'm careful to pack the bowl in the center of the bag, so there's plenty of moist shavings evenly surrounding the bowl. I also don't tie the bag so it's airtight - I leave a little gap at the tie so air can circulate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I check on the bowl every two months or so; this lets me know if I can proceed, and also helps rotate the shavings around inside the bag...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, &quot;know if I can proceed&quot; is still a thing I'm not totally sure about. I've taken bowls out after four months and still found them quite true when chucked up (and none of those bowls have subsequently cracked), but I'm not sure how this would work for a super-thin second turning, or very green wood, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="292" LastActivityDate="2015-07-25T17:48:59.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2081" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2082" CreationDate="2015-07-25T17:58:12.407" Score="6" ViewCount="696" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently received some really helpful answers to a previous &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2042/how-do-i-know-when-my-lathe-speed-is-wrong-or-could-be-better&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt; I had that exposed a big gap in my understanding of turning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/2046/292&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; answer mentions &quot;filling the pores&quot; of a walnut bowl as a solution (the only solution?) to the roughness that can be felt on the two end-grain sides of the bowl, even after sanding from 100 to 600 and finishing with 0000 steel wool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I finish all my bowls in organic foodsafe beeswax and mineral oil, and for (perhaps stubborn) aesthetic reasons, I'd really like to avoid acrylic, poly, or other non-natural, non-foodsafe sealers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this impossible? &lt;strong&gt;What are the best ways to make a fully smooth bowl while keeping it foodsafe and organic?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for any tips you can provide!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="292" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2015-07-25T18:53:31.060" Title="Filling pores on a turned bowl while remaining foodsafe/organic?" Tags="|technique|finishing|turning|lathe|bowl|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2081" CreationDate="2015-07-25T18:53:31.060" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can try making a paste of wood glue and sawdust to full the grain. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thekitchn.com/how-to-repair-a-cracked-butcher-block-or-cutting-board-projects-from-the-kitchn-215403&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This website&lt;/a&gt;, along with the glue bottle, cites that Titebond III is food-safe, so it should work for your purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2015-07-25T18:53:31.060" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2083" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2084" CreationDate="2015-07-26T08:12:11.277" Score="8" ViewCount="2875" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some Ikea furniture, such as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ikea.com/ca/en/catalog/products/10290221/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Norden table&lt;/a&gt; series, uses a distinctive type of striped wood for the large flat surfaces.  These surfaces appear to be many pieces of approximately 1&amp;ndash;&amp;frac38; &amp;times; &amp;frac12; inch slats of wood combined together into a larger piece.  What is this type of wood and how is it made?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be clear, I'm not looking for the species of tree the wood came from, but rather the name and manufacturing technique used to make this sort of composite structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="894" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2017-02-10T00:06:33.383" LastActivityDate="2017-02-10T00:06:33.383" Title="Type of wood glue-up used in some Ikea furniture?" Tags="|wood|furniture|wood-identification|butcher-block|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2083" CreationDate="2015-07-26T08:46:41.583" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is called a &lt;strong&gt;butcher block&lt;/strong&gt;. It comes in two types - edge grain (like in the Norden tables), where the surface shows the edge (long) grain of the pieces of wood:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a4OAS.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a4OAS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Edge grain butcher block&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And end grain, where the surface shows the end grain of the pieces of wood:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bohSJ.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bohSJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;End grain butcher block&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Butcher block is made from small pieces, which are glued together. Since wood glue is stronger than the wood it binds, there is no need for any more fastening of the wood pieces. A butcher block in general is a more economical way of creating large wooden surfaces. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An end-grain butcher block is tougher than an edge grain, since the end-grain is tougher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Butcher block construction is commonly used for cutting boards and for kitchen counter tops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T08:46:41.583" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2085" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2086" CreationDate="2015-07-26T14:23:54.947" Score="7" ViewCount="7387" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my continued effort to learn more about sharpening I see that the last step always involves stropping. Purchasing one seemed folly as &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/2065/128&quot;&gt;someone mentioned that&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;woodworkers who buy strops should hand in their woodworking cards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it came to leather selection it would mostly come down to availability since I had no intention of buying a strop. Unanimously people have suggested that if I used vegetable tanned that I do not have to treat it with something like chromium oxide before I use it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That got me thinking: I have plenty of leather from previous projects. How do I identify a piece of leather as vegetable tanned vs. the most popular chrome tanned? Colour used to be a tell tale sign but with all the dyes available that is no longer a perfect guide. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T15:43:08.607" Title="How can I tell if leather is vegetable tanned?" Tags="|sharpening|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2085" CreationDate="2015-07-26T14:23:54.947" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;So you found some scrap of leather from a manufacturer or some clothing (like a belt).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trouble can come from leather, that has been processed using vegetable tannins, but that was previously chromed tanned and reprocessed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that you can't get that information from wherever you are acquiring the leather or you want to verify the sources authenticity you have two simple tests at your disposal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Burn/Ash Test&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While both tests here are simple this one has the smallest time involvement. In an open air environment take a small strip or piece and bring it close to flame. Vegetable tanned leather should take longer to burn and when it does turn black/grey. Chrome tanned leather should have a bluish greenish colour when burned. The colour comes from the reaction of the chromium in the leather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A source as a simple reference would come from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carryology.com/bags/identify-superior-leather-oppermann-london/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Carryology.com&lt;/a&gt; where half way down the article the burn test is mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Boil Test&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another simple test is to put a thin strip of the material into a pot of boiling water. 100% veg tanned leather will curl up instantaneously. Chrome leather will just float in place. While both will go limp, chrome leather will not have the same initial reaction as veg. A &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uMfbTnfotkg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; about the self-proclaimed the &amp;quot;Siegel Effect&amp;quot; shows the test in action. I stress self-proclaimed as this test has been used for quite some time before this video was released.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/23SM1.png&quot; alt=&quot;Boiling leather&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the picture above there are two strips of leather in the pot. The one &amp;quot;on top&amp;quot; is confirmed vegetable tanned as it curled up when it was place in the pot. The second strip was known chrome tanned leather that just went limp and did not curl in nearly the same was as the other strip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hewit.com/skin_deep/?volume=7&amp;amp;article=2&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;article on the manufacturing of leather&lt;/a&gt; supports up this test by stating:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a normal vegetable tanned leather shrinks in water above 70ºC&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In Conclusion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While both of the test are not perfect they are both easy indicators. It is worth noting there are other tanning processes in used but chrome tanned is the most widely used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from stopping, vegetable tanned leather is also sought after for making holsters and covers for axes and other tools (So as to not have a reaction with the metal). That could be another source to consider or another motivation to perform the tests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T14:23:54.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2085" CreationDate="2015-07-26T15:43:08.607" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The differing properties of vegetable-tanned hide over chromium-tanned is an interesting subject to read up on but I think it should be stressed here that a preference for one over the other for strops can be considered irrelevant, for multiple reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Traditionalists often consider this a heresy and heated debates arise over it (particularly on straight-razor and knife forums it seems) with die-hard users insisting that veg-tanned horse butt is and always has been the best strop material going and anybody who says otherwise is not to be listened to, or something along those lines :-) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is one of many points of contention that contribute to the high noise:signal ratio surrounding sharpening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of this it's very easy to get bogged down in esoteric points like do I have to have veg-tanned leather? Should it be horse butt, or is bull neck leather better like someone else said? Or should I listen to those guys now promoting buffalo hide as THE strop material, better than anything that came before?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;All of that is irrelevant if you just focus on results.&lt;/em&gt; Does your strop do what you want: remove a microscopic burr (also called a wire edge) and/or polish your edge? And does it do it efficiently?* If so that's all that matters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here is where stropping compound becomes obvious as the key factor. &lt;strong&gt;It is the stropping compound that does almost all of the work&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So not only does the type of leather not need to matter, &lt;em&gt;you don't need leather at all&lt;/em&gt;. A few woodworkers today use strops just made from MDF or harder woods like maple with the stropping compound loaded onto the surface, and in head-to-head tests of denim-faced strops with leather-faced strops denim seems to do the job just as well. And for most of us denim scraps of large size can be had for free, which can't be said for vegetable-tanned leather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*By efficiently I mean in perhaps 30 seconds, not the many minutes some people spend stropping razors on bare leather strops. We don't have time for that, we have wood to get back to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T15:43:08.607" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2083" CreationDate="2015-07-27T01:07:37.947" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing to watch out for: butcher-block veneers, and plastic laminates with this pattern printed into them, also exist. Of course these have very different durability characteristics than real butcher-block. Ikea is somewhat notorious for veneer-over-MDF construction; I would &lt;em&gt;hope&lt;/em&gt; they were clear about what you're buying but you may want to ask&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, butcher-block construction's durability will depend upon what wood is being used. Again, you may need to ask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I have an old tabletop in my basement that looks like butcher-block on one side and a completely different construction on the other, and I have no idea yet what's between them.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T01:07:37.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2089" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-27T06:21:39.077" Score="8" ViewCount="2489" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to add a 22.5 degree chamfer to thick (1.5&quot;+) material.  In the past I've done small chamfers on a router table with a chamfer bit.  Unfortunately I can't seem to find any chamfer bits that are big enough to cut 1.5&quot;.  What's a good way to go about this.  I suppose it doesn't have to be exactly 22.5 degrees (for aesthetic purposes only), but I do want it repeatable and uniform (e.g. 20 degrees along the entire edge is fine).  Is there a way to use a shorter router bit that I'm not seeing?  Are there other tools for the job?  Should I start with a short chamfer and start planing the material down?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The work piece is a 1.5&quot; tall cylinder with outer diameter of 10&quot; and inner diameter of 6&quot; (e.g. 2&quot; wall thickness).  I'd like to chamfer both the inside and outside edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided to &quot;cheat&quot;.  A friend has a CNC router so I just ran it on that.  Took forever and had a few gcode errors, but came out well enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="566" LastEditorUserId="566" LastEditDate="2015-07-30T11:04:45.383" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T16:29:30.490" Title="How can I chamfer thick (1.5&quot;) material?" Tags="|router|router-bit|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2089" CreationDate="2015-07-27T08:34:06.813" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Planing by hand would be the standard response for any hand-tool aficionado, as this is how chamfers were done before power tools came along. This can be done freehand, by planing to marked or gauged lines on the face and edges, but it's easier to use some kind of chamfering jig if accuracy and repeatability are desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because I'm presuming you'll want to do four sides of something you're going to need to go cross-grain and planing a significant length and width of end grain by hand can be a bear, even if you have the right type of plane. So at least for those ends I'd suggest you use some kind of power tool to remove all or most of the material, then clean up taking very light passes with a block plane, with a card scraper, or just by sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thoughts on suitable power tools were in rough order: table saw, bandsaw and belt sander. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the table saw the blade can obviously be tilted to 22.5° and then it's just a straightforward saw cut. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the bandsaw, if the bed can't be tilted to the required angle then an angled bed can be built from plywood or MDF. But obviously if you're doing the chamfers on the edges of a large workpiece manoeuvring it safely could be impossible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The belt sander I thought could be used in one of two ways: either freehanding it (just to hog off most of the material) or by setting the sander upside down, tilted to the correct angle and then the workpiece could be slid past it, face side down, almost like you were using a jointer. If a sliding jig is rigged up and the sander fixed firmly in place I think this could give very accurate results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T08:34:06.813" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2089" CreationDate="2015-07-27T13:00:58.943" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For something that big, I would use a table saw to make the main cut, and then use a belt/orbit sander to smooth it out nice.  If you are good with a hand plane then you might leave a little to be planed off with a hand plane.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That much is a lot and using a bigger tool is the better way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T13:00:58.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2092" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2099" CreationDate="2015-07-27T14:44:19.507" Score="9" ViewCount="1472" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a old Beaver 4&quot; jointer that looks &lt;em&gt;very similar&lt;/em&gt; to this one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k7Axa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Beaver Jointer&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used it for the first time this weekend and it was awesome. I am wondering though if I was doing something inherently wrong while operating. I was processing some pallet boards which were 4' to 8' long and since some were so long I found myself walking along the jointer with the board to keep it flush against the base and fence. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought that maybe I was supposed to feed from behind but that didn't make sense as I would not be able to maintain downward pressure as the board passed over the cutter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should my body be positioned while operating a jointer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-07-28T17:10:43.737" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T18:51:01.377" Title="Body positioning while using a jointer" Tags="|safety|power-tools|pallet|jointer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2092" CreationDate="2015-07-27T15:14:35.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't own a jointer myself, but I watched my dad use his for years, and he always used a pair of &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B005HH1B9K&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;flat push blocks&lt;/a&gt; with handles and rubber pads on the bottom for friction. Using this type of push block will allow you to safely maintain downward pressure on the work piece while it's over the cutter head. You may also want to use a variation of this with a cleat for your trailing hand to allow a better grip for forward feed pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide not use push blocks, at least make sure to keep your hands away from the leading edge of the board when it's only a few inches onto the outfeed table. A sudden kickback with your hand in that position could lead to it getting drawn into the cutter head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/miMdMm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/miMdMm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for safe operating position, stand to the side of the jointer, and stay out of the kickback danger zone behind the machine directly in line with the cutter head. This old &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shopsmith.com/academy/jointers/020303.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shopsmith pamphlet (PDF)&lt;/a&gt; has a bunch of good tips on safe jointer use, although some are specific to the particular model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be especially careful in your inspection of the lumber for nails and staples if you're using pallet boards or reclaimed lumber. These can damage the knives and cause some serious kickback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not too squeamish, here's a good &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodworking.org/AccidentSurvey/Jointer.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;resource (PDF)&lt;/a&gt; with a lot of jointer accident and close-call descriptions. I find learning from others' mistakes (and missing digits) helps me keep all of my fingers intact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastEditorUserId="38" LastEditDate="2015-07-27T15:39:24.897" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T15:39:24.897" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2092" CreationDate="2015-07-27T15:18:29.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Position yourself centered in front of the cutterhead and use both hands to keep pressure over the cutterhead; as one hand passes, replace the other hand to continue pushing. &lt;em&gt;Do not leave hands near either end of the stock being jointed.&lt;/em&gt; Personally, I've never used a push stick or push block but perhaps I should start considering the document Doresoom linked. I've never had kickback or other accidents on my jointer but one time would be enough to turn my hands into hamburger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a related note, make sure your outfeed table is adjusted so that the cutter just kisses a board parallel to the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While your post was about body positioning, how you align the stock matters too, both for safety and for quality of cut. Here are some tips from Wood Magazine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Joint with the grain sloping down, toward the infeed table and away from the outfeed table. This prevents tearout&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure your outfeed table is properly adjusted: Lower the outfeed slightly. Feed a piece of scrap through until you have a lip projecting over your outfeed. Shut off your machine, then raise the outfeed until it just touches the bottom of your cut portion and lock the table.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Joint the face first, then use that flat face against the fence to joint an edge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For edge joining, each board has a good face. Joint one board with the good face away from the fence and the other board with the good face against the fence, this will ensure that even if your fence isn't perfectly square, the boards will join perfectly (supplementary angles. Go go gadget geometry!).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your board has a cup, joint the concave side down, then use a planer to remove the convex portion.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A jointer is a fantastic tool to have in the shop, congratulations on your new dangerous toy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="180" LastEditDate="2015-07-27T20:08:54.373" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T20:08:54.373" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2089" CreationDate="2015-07-27T16:50:32.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given your further description:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Trying to chamfer a 1.5&quot; thick circular piece with a circular cut out from the inside. I'd like to chamfer both the outside and inside edge of the resulting 1.5&quot; tall cylinder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest getting a milling bit - such as it used for metal or wood CNC machines - and chuck it into your table router at an angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll have to develop a jig for the part you're chamfering to obtain a very round result.  Clamping it to a board with a nail hole in the center, and rotating it around that center while routing seems the easiest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your router doesn't tilt add a wedge below it and incorporate that into your jig.  Alternately, use a hand router and a wedge, attached to a length of board with a nail at the center of the project part.  Then move the router around the part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use a jigsaw in a similar manner without buying the milling bit, but the blade might wander.  Doing this with a table saw is possible, but seems a bit more risky than a router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="235" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T16:50:32.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2089" CreationDate="2015-07-27T16:52:12.997" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on your edit and comments, it sounds like you want to chamfer the inside and outside circumferences of a short but large diameter hollow cylinder so each end of the cylinder comes to a point, so you end up with a toroid with a rhombus/diamond-shaped cross-section. In that case, I think a lathe would do a great job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to use a trim router with an angled base, spiral bit, and template and/or jig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-07-27T17:51:09.343" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T17:51:09.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2097" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2100" CreationDate="2015-07-27T16:58:43.173" Score="8" ViewCount="2715" Body="&lt;p&gt;The topic came up in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2092/body-positioning-while-using-a-jointer&quot;&gt;Body positioning while using a jointer&lt;/a&gt; of jointer safety. While I've never had any issues, an accident on a jointer could be very dangerous. What safety precautions should I take when operating a jointer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T16:00:52.447" Title="What safety precautions should I take when using a jointer?" Tags="|safety|jointer|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2097" CreationDate="2015-07-27T17:22:43.163" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple things to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eye protection (should be self-explanatory)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hearing protection (again, self-explanatory)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use push blocks and keep your hands away from the blades&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use boards long enough to comfortably guide through the cut&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep your body outside of the line of action of the blade&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep track of grain orientation to avoid kickback (usually not a real issue, but I thought I'd mention it for completeness)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T17:22:43.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2092" CreationDate="2015-07-27T17:24:22.673" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most woodworkers I know, including myself, walk along with the board when jointing, to some extent; but for long boards they stay in one place either at the infeed or outfeed side and use the push pads hand-over-hand to &quot;walk&quot; the board across. You should put downward pressure on the infeed table when starting the cut and on the outfeed table when ending the cut, but there are two schools of thought for what happens in the middle. Some keep pressure on the infeed table and others keep pressure on the outfeed table.  Personally, I think it makes more sense to put down pressure on the outfeed table, but I have woodworker friends who do the opposite and produce much nicer work than anything I've ever made.  As long as you stick to one or the other, you should get a good result (except perhaps at the very ends), even if your infeed and outfeed tables are ever-so-slightly out of parallel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of safety, you should try to keep your hands at least 6&quot; away from the cutterhead at all times, which also means you shouldn't joint anything shorter than about 18-24&quot;.  As Doresoom mentioned, you should use push pads.  Because you're usually working with longer pieces, push sticks and push shoes might not work as well on a jointer as they might on a table saw, though I suspect Matthias Wandel might still use push sticks on a jointer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally you should never pass your hands over the cutterhead, even if you are using push pads, but this can be very awkward at first, and at least one of the more famous instructional Internet woodworkers walks along with his workpiece and passes his hands right over the cutterhead (with push pads, of course).  You can use featherboards for face jointing, but most jointer fences are not tall enough to use featherboards for downward pressure when edge jointing wide boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-10-22T18:51:01.377" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T18:51:01.377" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2097" CreationDate="2015-07-27T17:31:23.540" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I copied some of the information from my earlier answer to your linked question, and added a few other points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use the proper personal safety gear, like eye and ear protection.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't disable or remove the spring-loaded guard. It's there for a reason.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a pair of &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B005HH1B9K&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;flat push blocks&lt;/a&gt; with handles and rubber pads on the bottom for friction. Using this type of push block will allow you to safely maintain downward pressure on the work piece while it's over the cutter head. You may also want to use a variation of this with a cleat for your trailing hand to allow a better grip for forward feed pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/miMdMm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/miMdMm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As @TX Turner mentions, &quot;When surfacing, never place either hand directly over the blade while pushing stock through.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Keep your hands away from the leading edge of the board when it's only a few inches onto the outfeed table. A sudden kickback with your hand in that position could lead to it getting drawn into the cutter head.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Stand to the side of the jointer, and stay out of the kickback danger zone behind the machine directly in line with the cutter head. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Be especially careful in your inspection of the lumber for nails and staples if you're using pallet boards or reclaimed lumber. These can damage the knives and cause some serious kickback.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check your jointer directions for the minimum recommended length of stock suitable for working with. Don't try to joint any work piece shorter than this length.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Further Reading:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This old &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shopsmith.com/academy/jointers/020303.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shopsmith pamphlet (PDF)&lt;/a&gt; has a bunch of good tips on safe jointer use, although some are specific to the particular model.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you're not too squeamish, here's a good &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodworking.org/AccidentSurvey/Jointer.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;resource (PDF)&lt;/a&gt; with a lot of jointer accident and close-call descriptions. I find learning from others' mistakes (and missing digits) helps me keep all of my fingers intact.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastEditorUserId="38" LastEditDate="2015-07-27T17:41:55.287" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T17:41:55.287" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2097" CreationDate="2015-07-27T17:54:30.640" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the magazines recently had a Jointers 101 article. Some points from that, from memory:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;hands never get withIn 3&quot; of the cutter (good general rule with machines), and never near the end or the board where it could slip from under you.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;never push toward the cutter if there's any possible way to avoid it -- that author recommend a &quot;push stick&quot; that's about 2' long and has a hook at the back, and switches to that as soon as the back end comes within reach. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Switch from pushing the board to pulling it (from the outfeed side) as soon as possible. Walking the leading edge past the cutter is part of that; start cutting with your feet pointing in the right direction for that.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't apply too much downward pressure, and don't take too deep a cut per pass, both for safety and accuracy reasons.(You want the planer to remove any cupping; don't push so hard you remove its ability to distinguish that.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cupped side down, If board is bowed/cupped. You'll cut more easily and lose less wood, and the board will be less likely to rock and ruin the pass.. If the board is twisted, picking the best orientation is a judgement call.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cut to rough size before jointing. Safer -- and less work and less wood lost since a shorter section generally has less total curvature. Exception being when board gets too short; under some size (6&quot;?) it's hard to safely control. Also, if too thin it has nasty habit of &quot;diving&quot; into the cutter.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;ALWAYS use blade guard. NO loose clothing. (Again good general advice)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Older jointers have a &quot;rabbeting ledge&quot; feature. Ignore it. Dado blade in the saw, or router, or router planes are better/safer solutions.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2015-07-27T21:27:44.427" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T21:27:44.427" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2097" CreationDate="2015-07-27T19:13:52.317" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the other answers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plan your cut from start to finish. Know what you are going to use to push the lumber (push blocks, hands for edge jointing, etc.).  Think about if your hand falls, where it will go and make sure that they won't contact the blade.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Know where the shutoff switch is located and think about how you can quickly activate it if necessary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure your machine is well-maintained.  Sharp knives, belt in good condition, waxed in-feed and out-feed tables&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the fence so that only 1/4&quot; of the blade is left exposed.  This will help minimize the amount of cutter that you can come in contact with  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you need to use your hands, use a grip where you can control all of your digits together and keep sight of them; don't let your pinky dangle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have doubts, don't cut.  Seek advice from an experienced woodworker.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Never start the machine with lumber near or on the blade&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make all adjustments to the machine with it off and locked out or unplugged.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove a very small amount of material at a time.  It will take a few extra passes but you will reduce the amount of effort needed to push the board over the cutter, as well as reduce the effects of kickback should it occur&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastEditorUserId="11" LastEditDate="2015-07-28T16:00:52.447" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T16:00:52.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2103" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2104" CreationDate="2015-07-27T20:43:06.517" Score="8" ViewCount="6635" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what Morse Taper size my lathe centers use: MT#1, MT#2 or MT#3.  Does anyone have a description of what the sizes are (lengths, diameters, etc) for the different MT sizes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="956" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T01:00:17.290" Title="What are the specifications for &quot;Morse Taper&quot; sizes?" Tags="|lathe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2103" CreationDate="2015-07-27T20:51:33.607" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The information you seek can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://littlemachineshop.com/reference/tapers.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've pasted a screenshot below for completeness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n7i7w.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n7i7w.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-07-28T01:00:17.290" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T01:00:17.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2105" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2107" CreationDate="2015-07-27T22:44:12.000" Score="13" ViewCount="4107" Body="&lt;p&gt;The typical method for removing warp in wood is to joint one face and one edge, followed by planing the other face and using a tablesaw for the final edge. The planer and tablesaw are fairly easy, but using a jointer to get the first edge and face straight can be tricky. What are the steps on a jointer to remove(if possible) various types of warp(i.e. twist, cup, bow, crook, kink) on the first edge and face?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;edit&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;To clarify, I am not asking how to mill wood using only a jointer, but rather how to use the jointer for the first edge and face before moving to different equipment. In particular, I want to know how the procedure varies depending on the type of warping and any specifics regarding grain orientation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="180" LastEditDate="2020-09-19T14:53:42.277" LastActivityDate="2020-09-19T14:53:42.277" Title="What are the jointer-specific steps for removing warp in lumber?" Tags="|jointer|milling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2097" CreationDate="2015-07-28T00:22:13.643" Score="2" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do not joint short stuff &amp;mdash; say, less than 12 inches or so &amp;mdash; lest Bad Things happen.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do not edge joint small stuff (say, less than 1/4-3/8 thick or lessthan 1-1/2&amp;ndash;2 inches wide)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do not face joint small stuff (say,less than 1/4-3/8 inch thick or less than 1 inch wide).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;ALWAYS use paddles/push blocks/push sticks&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;ALWAYS use ear and eye protection&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Take thin cuts, 1/32 or 1/16 tops. 1/8 at the very, very most. Easier on the motor, easier on the knives and its safer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Unless you know what you're doing (and why), don't muck with the outfeed table.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you working with long and/or heavy stock, have someone assist you.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't stand inline with the infeed end of the cutter table, lest you take a kickback in the abdomen.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you're adjusting the machine, unplug it and lock it out. Don't need nobody energizing it while you're under the hood, so to speak.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="958" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T00:22:13.643" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2105" CreationDate="2015-07-28T00:40:01.580" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;The purpose of a jointer is &lt;em&gt;specifically&lt;/em&gt; to flatten warped lumber. If your lumber isn't warped, you don't have to joint it. In a fantasy world, none of us would need jointers. Unfortunately, in our world wood moves, so even if the lumber was jointed perfectly flat before you bought it, it probably won't be perfectly flat by the time you go to use it. Certain species and certain cuts will be more susceptible to warping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume your jointer is properly-tuned. In other words, the top surface of the outfeed table is perfectly even with highest point of knives as they rotate, and the top surface of the infeed table is perfectly parallel to the top surface of the outfeed table--i.e., the infeed and outfeed tables are perfectly coplanar when raised to the same height, even with the top of the cutterhead's arc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now we're ready to start squaring up a board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, you joint the face, taking one or more shallow passes at a time until the face is flat. For this pass, you hold your workpiece against the horizontal infeed and outfeed tables.  Depending on the size of your jointer, most consumer-grade machines can safely remove up to 1/32&quot; or 1/16&quot; per pass. Once you think the piece is flat, you can prove it's flat by scribling with a pencil across the entire face and taking one more shallow pass. If all the pencil marks are gone, your workpiece is flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that you have a flat face, you joint one edge. Set your fence exactly 90 degrees to the tables, then hold the newly-flattened face up against the fence. Pass the workpiece through the jointer one or more times until the edge is perfectly flat, again taking shallow bites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's it; assuming you have any wood left, you're done and you can move onto steps 3 and 4, ripping the other edge parallel to the first (usually with a table saw), and planing the other face parallel to the first (usually with a thickness planer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what if you don't have any wood left? In that case, you're probably sitting in the emergency room waiting to have your injuries treated, which means you should have done something differently. Let's hop in our time machine and do it right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Deal with &lt;em&gt;severely warped&lt;/em&gt; and/or long boards before they even touch your jointer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I mentioned in a comment, sometimes you simply &lt;em&gt;cannot&lt;/em&gt; remove all the warp with only a jointer, or if you did you'd have little or nothing left to work with after jointing. For this, you'll need to do some crosscutting and/or ripping (or karate-chopping), which you can't do with a jointer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The longer, wider, and thicker your lumber is, the more likely it is that there is some noticeable warp, whether it's a cup, twist, bow, crook, etc. But the warp may be more pronounced in one particular area. In the most severe case, if you take a severely warped board and choose any points, one on each end of the board, there may be no straight path from point A to point B which passes only through wood without passing through air. But if you crosscut the board in half, you will usually find that it's much easier to find a path from point A to point B without passing through air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So before you ever start dimensioning, you should cut the piece down to rough oversize length. Crosscut each piece a couple inches longer than your final dimensions (or maybe even longer, if you have to account for joinery or some extra fudge factor), but keep each piece at least 18-24&quot; long if you plan on jointing. Now that you don't have to remove most of the wood in order to get a flat board, you can start jointing to remove each type of warp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bow/crook/kink&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a crook or kink, you should flatten a face first so you can register it against the jointer's fence. After that, the steps are basically the same for a bow, crook, or kink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Method 1:&lt;/strong&gt; Place the concave face (for a bow) or edge (crook/kink) down so both ends are making contact with the infeed table. If your infeed table is not long enough to support both ends of the board, you can add an extension or auxiliary infeed table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Method 2:&lt;/strong&gt; If the crook/kink is severe, you can start by making a few shallow passes with one end on the outfeed table and one on the infeed table, then finish with method 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Twist&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Twist is the most difficult type of warp to deal with, and is easiest to tackle with a planer sled. But you can do it with a jointer with a little bit of finesse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To preserve the most thickness, you want to start out by removing equal parts from each end of the twisted board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For shorter pieces, you can hold down one edge of the piece on the infeed table, but for longer pieces you have to balance the twisted board freehand for the first several passes.  Matthias Wandel has a nice &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodgears.ca/jointer/squaring.html&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; illustrating this technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cup&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't fix a cup with any amount of crosscutting. If you have a severe cup, jointing and planing away the convex belly on one side and the concave cup on the other side may leave you with little or no thickness left. What started out as an 8/4 board may now only be 1/2&quot; thick.  A better solution may be to rip the board narrower. The narrower the board, the less severe the cup. So you could rip the board into strips and, depending on your needs, either joint each one individually before gluing them back together, or you could preserve a little more of the board's width (probably at the expense of matching grain patterns) by flipping every other one over and gluing them back together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But let's suppose the cup is shallow enough to joint. If your jointer is wider than the board, joint with the concave side down. If your board is wider than your jointer, joint with the convex (belly) side down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-07-28T17:01:04.757" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T17:01:04.757" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2108" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2110" CreationDate="2015-07-28T15:16:04.963" Score="7" ViewCount="34257" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love the look of natural cedar for outdoor projects. I built a small garden fence a few years ago, and made the mistake of leaving it unfinished. It's completely gray/silver now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on using a leftover cedar 4x4 to make a mailbox post in the near future. Is there a top coat I can apply that will help the wood maintain its natural color, or at least slow the graying process? Would something with a UV inhibitor be the best option, like a deck sealer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastActivityDate="2019-12-09T20:46:06.417" Title="How can I prevent outdoor cedar projects from losing their color?" Tags="|finishing|outdoor|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2109" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-28T15:31:57.147" Score="2" ViewCount="1143" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I turn a large western cedar tree round into a low table?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I now have a large western cedar tree round.  It's from a 100-ish year old cedar tree that a neighbor cut down.  My wife would like me to turn this into a table for a covered outdoor area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't need a fancy finish on this.  It is something that will sit outdoors in a covered area under a deck between two chairs in the shade next to our garden.  Think iced tea or cold beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's big, hard to move and freshly cut.  Roughly 4' in diameter and around a foot thick.  I hesitate to call this woodworking, it is more in the direction of creating long lasting, workable for a lumber-jack, outdoor furniture.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gTuxK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gTuxK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;western cedar tree round&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should I deal with this?  What are the steps and the products that I will need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) I don't want it to check.  Can I prevent this?  I don't need to keep the bark.  How long must it sit and dry before I finish the top?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) I will clean it up and make the top surface flat and less rough.  I would like to preserve the cedar color, instead of letting it go gray on top.  What can I use for this?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) It has some center rot which I currently imagine I can drill out, inserting a butterfly or other shaped plug made from another smaller log from the same tree.  What should I do with the center rot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) I could finish the top with something and think that I will want to seal the butterfly plug in the drilled out rot area with something.  What would work well here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am planning on using 7&quot; or 8&quot; diameter tree rounds to make stubby little legs for this.  I don't imagine that I will attach the legs.  They will each stand on their own and I will just use the tabletop's weight to keep them in place.  I might gouge out an indentation for each leg on the underside of the table. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Help me make my wife proud!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="962" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-07-28T16:18:05.570" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T16:18:05.570" Title="how can I make a cedar tree round into an outdoor table?" Tags="|technique|finishing|furniture|green-wood|outdoor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-07-28T16:15:41.500" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2108" CreationDate="2015-07-28T15:54:46.890" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer, there is no product you can apply that will preserve the color of cedar for the long term.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some products you can apply to slow the aging process of the cedar or just cover it up, as I have found with some internet research.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cabotstain.com/products/product/Clear-Solutions.html&quot;&gt;Cabot&lt;/a&gt;, along with other finish makers, make decking stains and finishes that will generally protect and beautify wood while maintaining its natural color for longer than normal.  This will require somewhat frequent reapplication (at least once per year) to achieve the desired result (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?50750-Preserving-Cedar-Color&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Semi-transparent stains, with some amount of suspended solids, will give you the cedar color without obscuring too much of the wood grain (&lt;a href=&quot;http://homerenovations.about.com/od/Exterior/ss/Keep-Cedar-Color-Vibrant-On-Your-House.htm#step2&quot;&gt;2&lt;/a&gt;).  Note that this references specifies using a manual brush for best results and minimal blotchiness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Solid color stains will give the best color-fastness and UV protection while allowing &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; of the grain to show through (&lt;a href=&quot;http://homerenovations.about.com/od/Exterior/ss/Keep-Cedar-Color-Vibrant-On-Your-House.htm#step2&quot;&gt;2&lt;/a&gt;).  The color will be uniform and opaque.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure that your cedar post has no sapwood, otherwise it will rot like any other non-resistant wood (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?50750-Preserving-Cedar-Color&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cedarrestoration.com/Homeowner_Guide.pdf&quot;&gt;This document&lt;/a&gt; also has some helpful tips on finishing and maintaining cedar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T15:54:46.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2109" CreationDate="2015-07-28T16:07:42.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interesting project.  This is a rather involved set of questions, but I'll attempt to answer them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.) You will likely not be able to prevent checking and cracking of this piece as it dries.  You have different rates of shrinkage depending on the direction of the grain, and with the cut being kept essentially in it's original configuration (i.e., a section cut from the whole tree), it will want to crack and check like every piece of non-split firewood you've ever seen.  However, once the piece has had time to dry and season, you can stabilize the cracks with &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Butterfly_joint&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;butterfly keys&lt;/a&gt; or epoxy, to name a couple options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.) You will not be able to keep the cedar color for long, I'm afraid.  Please see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2108/how-can-i-prevent-outdoor-cedar-projects-from-losing-their-color&quot;&gt;this related Question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3.) I would remove the center rot in its entirety to keep it from spreading to the rest of the piece.  For filling that space, that really depends on what you have available.  Jamming another piece to fill in while the piece is drying will only exacerbate your cracking problems, so I'd advise cutting out the rot now and letting the piece dry with the center missing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4.) Finishing the top will best be accomplished with an exterior varnish or epoxy.  If you want a truly long-lasting finish, marine epoxy is the way to go.  However, beware that this type of epoxy is quite expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest connecting the top to the legs with lag screws at the very least to keep it laterally stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T16:07:42.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2112" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2115" CreationDate="2015-07-28T16:47:16.540" Score="10" ViewCount="2446" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to turn a large western cedar tree round into a low table for a covered outdoor area.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My tree round is from a 100-ish year old western cedar tree that a neighbor recently cut down.  It's big, hard to move and freshly cut, a month ago. It's roughly 4 feet in diameter and around a foot thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some way that I can prevent it from checking/cracking.  Probably more realistically, are there ways that I can limit the cracking as it dries? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long must it dry before I can put a finish on the top?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't need to keep the bark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6pdYJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6pdYJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Large Cedar Tree Round&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2114/how-to-can-i-repair-mitigate-rot-in-the-center-of-a-western-cedar-tree-round&quot;&gt;Related Question...&lt;/a&gt;    and &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2109/how-can-i-make-a-cedar-tree-round-into-an-outdoor-table&quot;&gt;Original Post too long&lt;/a&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="962" LastEditorUserId="962" LastEditDate="2015-07-29T00:08:27.610" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T01:42:08.890" Title="How can I keep a cedar tree round from checking?" Tags="|finishing|wood|wood-movement|green-wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2108" CreationDate="2015-07-28T16:47:20.240" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a top coat I can apply that will help the wood maintain its natural color, or at least slow the graying process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boiled linseed oil, despite not providing much water-resistance to wood when applied in the usual way associated with furniture, will do much to slow the weathering to that natural grey/silver colour if applied heavily and re-applied periodically. However it will significantly colour the wood so it won't exactly end up its natural colour. BLO is used widely as the surface dressing for log cabins for example and with regular upkeep they stay that characteristic yellowish colour for many years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tung oil is claimed to provide better weatherproofing than linseed oil, its long use as a wood finish for Chinese sailing vessels often being cited as evidence. However I've never actually seen any comparative testing results so I take those claims with a pinch of salt, although it does seem that it's at least equal to BLO in some real-world examples of use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is a marine coating of the type that would be used to protect exposed woodwork on a yacht, although I'm not sure if the glossy surface would suit. This includes classic spar varnishes, which also need some upkeep over time (less frequently than BLO) and will also colour the wood significantly because of their high oil percentage. The best option here, both in terms of having a lighter colour and superior long-term protection, is an epoxy coating but this seems a bit overkill for a mailbox post; these are significantly pricey and other applications for the remainder of the product might be few and far between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A deck sealer would seem to be an ideal choice for you. These are widely available and relatively inexpensive, and if they can provide good protection to wood surfaces sitting horizontally — with maximum exposure to light and rain — then vertical surfaces such as a post should pose little challenge to them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T16:47:20.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2114" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2118" CreationDate="2015-07-28T16:58:44.067" Score="9" ViewCount="865" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to turn a large western cedar tree round into a low table for a covered outdoor area.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The round is from a 100-ish year old cedar tree.  It was freshly cut (one month ago), is roughly 4 feet in diameter, around a foot thick, and has some rot in the center.  How should I deal with the rot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will not need a fancy finish, but I don't want it to look shabby either. It is something that will sit outdoors in a covered area under a deck between two chairs in the shade and next to our garden. Think iced tea or cold beer on a hot day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XMJ9H.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XMJ9H.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;western cedar tree&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2112/how-can-i-keep-a-cedar-tree-round-from-checking&quot;&gt;Related Question...&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2109/how-can-i-make-a-cedar-tree-round-into-an-outdoor-table&quot;&gt;Original Post too long...&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="962" LastEditorUserId="962" LastEditDate="2015-07-29T00:06:10.210" LastActivityDate="2017-09-01T12:33:28.223" Title="How to can I repair/mitigate rot in the center of a Western Cedar tree round?" Tags="|finishing|furniture|green-wood|wood-repair|outdoor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2112" CreationDate="2015-07-28T17:04:16.477" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;To repost and add to my response to your previous question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will likely not be able to prevent checking and cracking of this piece as it dries. You have different rates of shrinkage depending on the direction of the grain, and with the cut being kept essentially in it's original configuration (i.e., a section cut from the whole tree), it will want to crack and check like every piece of non-split firewood you've ever seen.  Additionally, due to the thickness of the material, you will likely have an exterior layer that dries much sooner than the interior, further exacerbating the checking/cracking issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @keshlam mentions in his comment, the rule of thumb is one year per inch of thickness for drying wood.  This is a rough approximation and depends on a lot of factors (species, local climate, how the piece is stored to be dried, thickness, grain orientation, among others).  There are &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.lostartpress.com/2014/03/20/but-is-it-dry-enough/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;quite&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.lostartpress.com/2013/12/21/water-vs-wood/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a few&lt;/a&gt; Lost Art Press &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.lostartpress.com/2014/01/11/water-vs-wood-the-sequel/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;blog entries&lt;/a&gt; on the subject of drying of monolithic workbench pieces you might find of interest (see also this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=lost%20art%20press%20drying&amp;amp;ie=utf-8&amp;amp;oe=utf-8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;google search&lt;/a&gt; for more on the subject from LAP).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your original post you mentioned cutting out the rot in the center of the log, which I would like to address here as well as it pertains to drying.  Removing the rot will not only help keep the rest of the log rotting along with it in time, but it will also help with cracking in that you won't have the center pith.  By removing this, you will allow the outer portions of the log to shrink in with less inhibition, thereby (hopefully) alleviating some cracking.  Also, assuming you remove the center, I would refrain from jamming another piece of wood in the open space for fear of increasing the log's likelihood of cracking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, once the piece has had time to dry and season, you can stabilize the cracks with &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Butterfly_joint&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;butterfly keys&lt;/a&gt; or epoxy, to name a couple options.  Given the thickness of your piece, you may be waiting a while before being able to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; I've included an excerpt below from Roy Underhill's book &lt;em&gt;The Woodwright's Guide: Working Wood with Wedge &amp;amp; Edge&lt;/em&gt; to pictorially show how shrinkage occurs in a whole log.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dYCa4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dYCa4.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-07-29T01:42:08.890" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T01:42:08.890" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2116" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2117" CreationDate="2015-07-28T17:14:35.553" Score="17" ViewCount="15477" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2105/what-are-the-jointer-specific-steps-for-removing-warp-in-lumber?noredirect=1#comment4219_2105&quot;&gt;What are the jointer-specific steps for removing warp in lumber?&lt;/a&gt; a planer sled is suggested for milling twisted lumber rather than a jointer. What is a planer sled, and how is it used for removing twist?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T07:11:36.250" Title="What is a planer sled and how do you use it?" Tags="|thickness-planer|milling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2116" CreationDate="2015-07-28T17:23:47.230" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;A planer sled is a flat, rigid box or piece of material that supports your workpiece and holds it in a specific orientation as it passes through a thickness planer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By holding a twisted or otherwise warped piece of lumber in a fixed orientation as it passes through the planer, the sled allows the planer to chop off the high spots, effectively jointing the top surface flat. Afterward, you can flip over the workpiece and send it through the planer again (with or without a sled) for one or more passes until the other side is flat and parallel to the first (flat) surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most designs use shims, wedges, or screw levelers to fix the piece in one orientation and prevent it from rocking or from being bent flat (e.g., if the board is cupped or bowed) by the planer's pressure rollers. Most designs also use hot glue, screws, and/or a stop at the leading edge at the front of the sled to secure the workpiece in place and keep it from sliding off the sled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a few examples...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simplest designs often involve a thick slab of MDF or particle board, with hot glue and business card or playing card shims to secure the workpiece in place:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oguyF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oguyF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;basic planer sled with playing card shims&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/wall-cabinet-of-maple-how-to-install-knife-hinges&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternative, lighter-weight designs involve attaching rails to the sides of a workpiece (especially useful with longer, thicker material):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5iQD2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5iQD2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;planer sled rails&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://skoglundwoodwork.com/?p=211&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also many other designs with various usability features such as built-in levelers and adjustments...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on plans in ShopNotes issue #138:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2mVBx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2mVBx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ShopNotes planer sled&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.workshopaddict.com/forum/tips-tricks-jigs/5838-shopnotes-planer-sled.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on plans from Fine Woodworking:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cwPid.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cwPid.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Fine Woodworking planer sled&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/viewer-projects/planer-sled/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-07-28T17:57:44.470" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T17:57:44.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2114" CreationDate="2015-07-28T17:29:19.833" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a corollary to my answer on your other &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2112/how-can-i-keep-a-cedar-tree-round-from-checking&quot;&gt;Question&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Removing the rot will not only help keep the rest of the log rotting along with it in time, but it will also help with cracking in that you won't have the center pith.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many ways you could deal with the rot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your original question mentioned drilling out the rot, which will work fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can chisel out the rot and smooth out the sides of the hole.  This could also be done with a hatchet or other rough implement, but the finish may not be as nice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is possible to stabilize the rot by flooding the area with epoxy, letting it penetrate all the way through the piece.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You could also drill through the thickness and use a long Sawzall blade to cut out the center.  See this &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1793/how-do-i-cut-thick-wood-with-a-jigsaw&quot;&gt;related Question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're very careful, you can even &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/All-natural-burn-out-bowl/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;burn the rot out&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T17:29:19.833" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2116" CreationDate="2015-07-28T17:59:21.440" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add to &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/2117/128&quot;&gt;Rob's answer&lt;/a&gt;: A planer mills the wood to a fixed height above the bed. If the piece is warped or twisted, the warp will still be there upon exiting the planer, and at best you'll have a warped piece with constant thickness. (Not even that, if the piece rocks differently each time through the planer.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the sled or rails holding the wood in a fixed orientation, the planer instead acts like a wide jointer, cutting a flat face. This does allow the thickness to vary, but after one face is flat you can flip the wood over, use that flat face as a stable reference, and plane the other face both flat and parallel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of it as a home brew alternative to buying one of the fancy jointer/planer combo machines, if you already have a small jointer (or are willing to joint narrow pieces by hand).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T23:37:34.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2120" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-26T12:18:51.670" Score="3" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a wooden frame (for a loft) and would like to make that without using any angles or fittings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;     /-------------&#xA;    / |           /|&#xA;   ?-------------/ |&#xA;   |  |__________|_|&#xA;   | /           | /&#xA;   |/____________|/&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for joint alternatives for connecting the &lt;strong&gt;corners&lt;/strong&gt; without using any metal angles/fittings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps using a combination of rabbet joint and some other type of joint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="977" OwnerDisplayName="andersand" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-07-29T15:37:11.260" LastActivityDate="2015-08-02T14:16:37.433" Title="What type of wooden joint to use connecting three wooden beams" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="11" ClosedDate="2015-08-02T21:26:34.203" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2121" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-29T17:47:34.390" Score="21" ViewCount="8019" Body="&lt;p&gt;When making box joints, per a number of articles I've read, I've left the fingers a touch longer than the thickness of the board.  So if I'm making joints on 1/4&quot; plywood, my fingers might be 5/16&quot; long, and then I just sand them down at the end.  Some authors (Matthias Wandel as an example) even suggest cutting the fingers with a table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An issue I'm encountering with these is that it becomes difficult to clamp the joint tight, since a clamp ends up pressing on the extension of the fingers sticking out, not the second board you are trying to clamp.  I tried clamping a square to inside of the joint, which works well for keeping the joint square, but doesn't seem to apply enough pressure to pull the fingers tightly together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is making the fingers a tad longer poor advice, or is there another way to clamp this type of joint?  I had considered making a jig with fingers and just a small amount of wood, but with 1/4&quot; plywood, and only 1/16&quot; excess material, it seems unlikely this would stay in place with clamping pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2019-04-08T20:06:54.500" Title="How do I clamp box joints?" Tags="|clamps|box-joint|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2121" CreationDate="2015-07-29T18:05:17.213" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;For clamping box joints, I've found that offsetting the clamps just to the inside of the fingers ensures you will be able to pull the corners tight.  With the clamps there, you will still be pulling the joint closed while introducing relatively no bending to the boards.  Picture below (source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rodswoodworking.com/chess-checkers-plans.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RodsWoodworking.com&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aMhsM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aMhsM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;clamping #1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could, as you suggested, make some jig with matching fingers that interlace with the box joint, giving you bearing on the portion of the joint you're trying to press.  This can be rather tedious though, since you need to make a minimum of eight (two per corner) to properly clamp a box, possible more depending how deep the box is.  As suggested by @keshlam, you can buy &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/box-joint-cauls&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;box joint cauls&lt;/a&gt; that serve this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way I've seen is to use offset blocks (or cauls) and then clamp around the entire assembly using ratchet straps.  This is illustrated in the picture below (source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/projects/99552&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;LumberJocks&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ciFJA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ciFJA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;clamping #2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per the suggestion of @keshlam, it's prudent to coat wooden cauls with packaging tape (or another surface that glue will not stick to) so that they don't become part of your box inadvertently.  Also, you might try lining the very edge of your joint with blue tape to catch any squeezeout, similar to the image below (source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.startwoodworking.com/post/no-mess-glue-ups&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;StartWoodworking.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W08jP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W08jP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-07-30T18:41:41.557" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T18:41:41.557" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2121" CreationDate="2015-07-29T20:28:41.880" Score="19" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I tried clamping a square to inside of the joint, which works well for keeping the joint square, but doesn't seem to apply enough pressure to pull the fingers tightly together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that's basically the right idea but could do with being implemented differently:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IhT8O.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IhT8O.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Right-angle clamping jig&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Source: Wood Magazine]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option that you might like to consider is something similar to this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VAcJe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VAcJe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Corner clamping setup&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see the clamping blocks themselves support the thin stock and work simultaneously to keep it straight while providing the necessary clamping action to squeeze the joint firmly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is making the fingers a tad longer poor advice&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wasn't familiar with this prior to your question but I think I can see why this might be advisable in some situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would however recommend that you not do this if your cuts don't result in unacceptable amounts of chipout, as it saves on later work while simultaneously makes clamping more straightforward during the assembly phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T20:28:41.880" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2121" CreationDate="2015-07-30T19:16:42.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try this setup.Green is jig. Red is where clamps go.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p496d.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p496d.png&quot; alt=&quot;ClampJig&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="708" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T19:16:42.427" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2125" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2126" CreationDate="2015-07-30T20:10:21.943" Score="11" ViewCount="2502" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently trying to build 3ft wooden letters for my sorority's recruitment booth. I want them to be sturdy and weather resistant but also lightweight and portable. The letters will be in storage for most of the year only coming out when we have recruitment activities at the beginning of each quarter. I was wondering what is the best kind of wood and thickness to use for this project. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a bit of experience in wood working but this is my first time undertaking a project of my own. Right now this project is just in the planning stages. I need to propose a budget before I can move forward and make more solid designs but I am looking to create letters that look similar to this photo: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eswk3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eswk3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;wooden letters&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our letters are Lambda Sigma Gamma.  I will also need to make stands for the letters, especially the Gamma. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="972" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-07-31T00:25:13.213" LastActivityDate="2017-08-21T07:29:13.233" Title="Wood to Use for 3ft Sorority Letters" Tags="|wood-selection|design|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2125" CreationDate="2015-07-30T20:23:35.977" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for weather-resistant and lightweight, you can't do much better than cedar for the wood choice.  Cedar also has a good strength-to-weight ratio, making it very sturdy.  For thickness, using 2x material (i.e., 2x4, 2x6, 2x8, etc.) is probably ok given your letter sizes.  Bear in mind that cedar usually has somewhat of a premium in price over other woods you'd get at a big box store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bit less expensive of an option would be pressure-treated dimensional pine boards, which also come in 2x thickness.  These will be heavier than the cedar but should have similar weather-resistance and sturdiness at a lower cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the link you provided, you might be looking at using plywood for the letters.  Pressure-treated (exterior-grade) plywood is available, which will fit the weather-resistance bill.  However, I would advise backing the plywood with a frame of 2x material to keep it from bending when wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You state that these are going to be used for your recruitment booth.  Are they going to be kept outside for long term (i.e., months or years)?  If so, you'll want to consider using a waterproof glue such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.titebond.com/product.aspx?id=e8d40b45-0ab3-49f7-8a9c-b53970f736af&quot;&gt;Titebond III&lt;/a&gt; and/or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=cedar%20strength-to-weight&amp;amp;ie=utf-8&amp;amp;oe=utf-8#safe=off&amp;amp;q=coated%20deck%20screws&quot;&gt;coated deck screws&lt;/a&gt; for assembly.  This will ensure that it stays together for the long haul as compared to less robust glue and fasteners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-07-30T20:55:26.870" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T20:55:26.870" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2125" CreationDate="2015-07-30T20:32:27.610" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plywood is designed specifically to resist warping and to be stronger than solid wood of the same dimensions due to the properties of lamination. The plywood you want will be labeled as being for &quot;outdoor use,&quot; which is treated to be rot resistant. It is easily worked and paintable/sandable. If you want to leave wood exposed rather than painting, then you can use a higher grade plywood which has a top veneer of high quality material; this is commonly used in furniture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thickness for something that isn't taking any kind of load is really up to your opinion regarding the aesthetics of the thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use plywood for the stands as well. Using dimensional lumber for a project like this would require jointing the lumber together and cutting it to a curved shape unless you wan to use greek &quot;block&quot; letters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this will be used outdoors, particularly in wet weather, you'll want to apply an outdoor finish or paint to your letters, even if the wood is rated for exterior use. Frankly you may not find exterior rated plywood with a high grade, since it's typically used in applications where the plywood is a backing for something else (e.g. shingles). If this is the case, it's even more important to apply judicious layers of outdoor finish to protect your project. Indoor plywood typically doesn't use waterproof glues between layers and moisture may cause it to split.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="180" LastEditDate="2015-07-31T17:50:09.763" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T17:50:09.763" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2125" CreationDate="2015-07-31T02:16:37.187" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other answers are helpful for explaining what types of wood to use for the environment but fail to take into consideration how you are going to construct the letters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simplest way I can think of would be trace the outlines of the letters onto plywood sheets and cut them out with a jig saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use non-engineered boards of wood, either dimension framing/decking lumber (2x4, 2x6, etc.) or lumber you have milled to dimension, you're going to be dealing with wood that isn't very wide on average. This means that you're going to be joining (glue, screws, etc.) boards together and cutting all sorts of angled cuts, likely requiring multiple types of saws. It will also require a lot more finishing.  While doable, this is significantly more complicated and is unlikely to be as durable as a single board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar to cedar, there are composite deck products that are not wood but can be worked with like wood.  They will not rot, expand/contract, twist or deform and are water proof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T02:16:37.187" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2129" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2130" CreationDate="2015-07-31T12:44:18.470" Score="8" ViewCount="299" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made another trip to my grandfather's shed and I found some more tools that I am very interested to have and use &lt;em&gt;(like the adze I got!)&lt;/em&gt;. I have been watching enough episodes of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pbs.org/woodwrightsshop/home/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Woodwright's Shop&lt;/a&gt; to know that I found a scratcher gauge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also with it was what &lt;em&gt;appeared&lt;/em&gt; to be a pair of mortise gauges. One is pictured below. Good guess is that it is homemade so there's nothing to look up. I say &quot;appeared&quot; because all the mortise gauges I have seen both scratchers are on the same post with one of the &quot;nails&quot; being adjustable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cUSEn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;home made gauge&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem with this is that: If you were to use this for a mortise you would have lines protruding the mortise area which could be seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I wrong about what this is? If I am right would you just use this like a regular mortise gauge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="126" LastEditDate="2015-07-31T18:16:21.517" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T18:16:21.517" Title="Trouble identifiying a gauge" Tags="|tool-identification|traditional-techniques|measurement|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2129" CreationDate="2015-07-31T13:00:32.223" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;For this gauge, I would imaging that you scribe with both beams &lt;em&gt;individually&lt;/em&gt; instead of scribing with both points active at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you're setting up the inside cheek of the mortise, you scribe with the shorter beam.  Then rotate the tool slightly and scribe the outside cheek with the longer beam.  This is a similar system to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=67466&amp;amp;cat=1,42936&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Veritas Dual Marking Gauge&lt;/a&gt; (pictured below, images from Lee Valley), which I own and operate in the same fashion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y1SjS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y1SjS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Veritas Marking Gauge&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BPszC.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BPszC.png&quot; alt=&quot;Marking Separate&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this would require rotating each of the beams slightly opposite each other so that one is not active when using the other, or even having each point on opposite sides of the gauge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-07-31T13:07:11.137" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T13:07:11.137" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2129" CreationDate="2015-07-31T13:29:35.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this could be one of two things, either a double marking gauge so you can have two settings held simultaneously on the one tool (just for convenience, not specifically for mortising), or a rudimentary mortise gauge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My problem with this is that: If you were to use this for a mortise you would have lines protruding the mortise area which could be seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some woodworkers don't mind visible gauge marks on their work, but in the past at least it was quite common for final dimensioning to be done after the mortises were cut (most noticeably the 'horns' being cut off) and any final planing, even just scraping, would naturally erase any gauge lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T13:29:35.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2132" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-31T16:23:29.317" Score="7" ViewCount="3083" Body="&lt;p&gt;I broke a hardwood patio umbrella rib.  The ribs are made out of 1&quot; x 1/2&quot; x 5'6&quot; hardwood.  I don't think that I can buy this dimension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fix this, I  thought that I might buy a 1&quot; hardwood dowel and flatten the three areas where that rib connects to the umbrella with a brass fitting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to flatten the dowel equally on both sides so that I am left with the flat area being in the center of the dowel.  All the flattened areas should be in the same orientation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a planer, and and ideally would do this with hand tools.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4C0Gu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4C0Gu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;broken umbrella rib 1&amp;quot; x 1/2&amp;quot; x 5&amp;#39;6&amp;quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pVTiq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pVTiq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;inside of the umbrella&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="962" LastEditorUserId="962" LastEditDate="2015-07-31T19:18:48.543" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T00:10:47.087" Title="How do I flatten portions of a 1&quot; dowel equally on both sides?" Tags="|hand-tools|tool-selection|dowel|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2089" CreationDate="2015-07-31T16:29:30.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another idea would be to use a shaper. A shaper is very similar to a router table except that it is meant for bigger cuts. You can buy a chamfer cutter that would handle you 22.5 degree cut for 1.5 inch thick stock. A quick search turned up this result: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.infinitytools.com/Chamfer-Shaper-Cutters/products/1152/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chamfer Shaper Cutter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="966" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T16:29:30.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2132" CreationDate="2015-07-31T16:49:18.013" Score="9" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Belt Sander&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems like an obvious choice. It might not make perfect corners on the new dowel but I can't imagine people will be looking up at where this meets. Very easy to remove stock quickly and if you orient the dowel right you should be able to get nice flat surfaces. Other power sanders could work for this as well just maybe not an orbital one as easily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Plane&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would be a cleaner and more precise option. If you were leaning towards hand tools this would be a good candidate. Clamp the dowel between two pieces of sacrificial wood. Better yet would be to take a block (or two) and cut a inch hole in it. Then the dowel will rest in that block with only the dowel to be remove exposed. Plane until just before the &quot;block&quot;. A small block plane would work nice for this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kmgrN.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't mention how much need to be cut but if the ends don't need to be cut to far you might end up making the ends more tapered. That could work to your advantage giving a tighter fit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chisels&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had though about chisels but was worried that they might try and walk along the grain and ruin the edges. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scrapers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might even be able to get away with a card scarper as well but I would not put this in front of the other options. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Update from pictures&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like the other I think that the original rib could still work in place. You should just be able to glue it back together with some clamps. The one thing I would do to try and reinforce it would be to drill a couple of holes across the break and fill each hole with a similar sized dowel. Glue those in there and I doubt it will break there again. I could not find a great picture put in concept this is have I meant&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GNVG4m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tenon peg&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just like the peg holds the tenon in the picture above a couple of small dowels can help hold your glue joint and give it some strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is of course assuming the ends of the rib were not damaged as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-08-01T00:10:47.087" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T00:10:47.087" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2132" CreationDate="2015-07-31T18:05:23.783" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was going to suggest using a block with a hole drilled through it, but without a drill press this would be difficult to make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead I would suggest a hand saw, some clamps, and a guide block.&#xA;The block should be positioned so that the bottom of the blade aligns with the start of the flat bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wrap the dowel with masking tape with the edge marking the length of the flat portion. This will serve as a stopping line for your cut, and prevent tearing the wood when you make the second cut.&#xA;Clamp the dowel and your guide block, then use a hand saw held flush to the guide to cut down the length of the dowel.&#xA;Now cut down to the line with the blade aligned with the tape.&#xA;Repeat the process on the other side of the dowel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T18:05:23.783" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2136" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2138" CreationDate="2015-07-31T19:21:15.000" Score="8" ViewCount="5646" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been working with a piece of walnut and wanted to get all the dust out of the pores before sealing. I used tack cloth to remove the dust from the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue is that now there is a sticky residue left over that hasn't gone away after sitting for a week. I could probably sand it off but I don't want to ruin some of the carved details. Will the residue cause any problems with my finish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="195" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-07-31T19:51:10.613" LastActivityDate="2023-02-04T20:21:13.030" Title="Residue from tack cloth left on wood" Tags="|finishing|sanding|tack-cloth|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2132" CreationDate="2015-07-31T19:49:15.770" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Forget squaring round dowels.&lt;/strong&gt;  If you want one side round for looks, it's much easier to round a square than vise-versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Go to &lt;strong&gt;any&lt;/strong&gt; lumber yard or big box store and find a 1&quot; x 4&quot; x 6' (or 1&quot; x 6&quot; x 6', etc.) &lt;em&gt;standard&lt;/em&gt; board.  Standard is the name of a type of board.  It is usually harder than similar &lt;em&gt;common&lt;/em&gt; boards.  Some people will say you need a cedar board, but your umbrella will probably be faded or caught in a windstorm before any significant rot happens.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ask an employee to cut you 1&quot; wide strip.  Be prepared to pay a minor cutting surcharge.  You now have a 1&quot; x 1/2&quot; x 6' squared board!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To cut to your 5'-6&quot; length, go the aisle where they cut trim to length and make a quick cut.  Or buy a $5 hacksaw.  Or use a steak knife for such a small piece.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sand to your desired roundness on one side.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your real troubles are going to be attaching your new rib to the center part.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="706" LastEditorUserId="706" LastEditDate="2015-07-31T19:55:41.790" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T19:55:41.790" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2136" CreationDate="2015-08-01T08:31:15.640" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry to hear about your problem, something like this cropping up just before you're about to start finishing is the last thing anyone wants to deal with. And needless to say this shouldn't happen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Will the residue cause any problems with my finish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on your finish. But for security I would want to remove it personally, regardless of what I was about to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sticky residue should be partially-cured varnish, and acetone or another strong organic solvent should wipe it away easily. You should try just wiping with mineral spirits/white spirit first though, as that might just do the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Previous question that you might like to look at: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1080/how-to-remove-dust-after-sanding-before-applying-paint-oil-glue&quot;&gt;How to remove dust after sanding before applying paint/oil/glue?&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T08:31:15.640" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2139" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-08-01T17:30:29.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When accompanied by pictures and as much detail as possible the Community can try and ascertain what tool is being described and in some cases the basics of its use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-08-01T17:30:29.423" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T17:30:29.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2140" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-08-01T17:30:29.423" Score="0" Body="For when you need help identifying what a particular tool is." OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-08-01T17:30:29.423" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T17:30:29.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2141" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2142" CreationDate="2015-08-01T17:39:06.780" Score="12" ViewCount="4933" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not much meat to this question. What is wood stabilization and why would I want to do it? It think it has to do with turning but are there other reasons that I would want to do it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is based on a comment from &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/935/128&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It's worth noting that you can &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.woodturnerscatalog.com/2014/02/wood-stabilizing-v-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;stabilize punky spalted wood&lt;/a&gt; - &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/users/878/grfrazee&quot;&gt;grfrazee&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T19:30:41.473" Title="What is wood stabilization?" Tags="|wood|wood-repair|stability|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2141" CreationDate="2015-08-01T21:08:35.850" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wood stabilization typically refers to reinforcing wood against inherent defects or weaknesses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In turning, stabilization may mean anything from filling cracks with epoxy, to &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.woodturnerscatalog.com/2014/02/wood-stabilizing-v-2/&quot;&gt;impregnating the wood with resin&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More generally, you can stabilize a crack with a butterfly inlay or you can again use epoxy or some other filler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of turning, the purpose of stabilizing the wood is to strengthen it against cracking and shattering while working on the piece.  In other cases, you may want to showcase a crack (or other &quot;defect&quot;) as part of your piece's character, but you want to prevent the crack from spreading further, possibly to the point of causing the piece to break or fail. For example, butterfly/bowtie inlays are commonly used to stabilize cracks in large wooden tabletops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-08-01T21:16:03.093" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T21:16:03.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2121" CreationDate="2015-08-02T03:59:38.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanted to elaborate a little bit on what &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/users/878/grfrazee&quot;&gt;grfrazee&lt;/a&gt; touched on with &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/2122/128&quot;&gt;his answer&lt;/a&gt;. Gluing cauls or &quot;Matching Finger&quot; cauls could be a great idea. Indeed, as you have read, some instructions/teachers will advise to let the pins protrude the surface. This can make it easier to create a flush surface after &lt;em&gt;but&lt;/em&gt; it can also be used as an aesthetic! If they were rounded off for instance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making these cauls could be considered a waste of time and wood on just one project. However, if you tend to make the same dimensions of finger joints, or even dovetails, you can still get good use out of cauls. They are simple and if created properly almost guarantee that pressure is being applied in the correct position. Risk is usually minimal just outside the joint but if being square is essential it would not hurt to consider. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is another great video from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pbs.org/woodwrightsshop/watch-on-line/2014-2015-episodes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Woodright's Shop&lt;/a&gt; called &quot;Pinch Rods and Squeezy Blocks&quot;. The latter being the name of how Roy Underhill's refers to his gluing cauls. A picture below show his dovetail &quot;squeezy block&quot; which took less than a minute to make using a chisel and one of the cut boards as a rough guide. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0U8a1.png&quot; alt=&quot;Squeezy Block&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other examples as well like the ones from a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2014/06/gluing-dovetail-joints/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Craftsy.com blog post&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fG8DD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fG8DD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like grfrazee said&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This can be rather tedious though, since you need to make a minimum of eight (two per corner) to properly clamp a box, possible more depending how deep the box is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But they are not really hard to make and if you can use them again then why not. From the Crafty.com post&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It’s worth the 20 minutes it takes to make these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a bonus that same video show how to use (and make) pinch rods to use to make sure your box is square! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="2463" LastEditDate="2019-04-08T20:06:54.500" LastActivityDate="2019-04-08T20:06:54.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2144" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2169" CreationDate="2015-08-02T12:54:06.520" Score="11" ViewCount="14533" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a loft bed, and would like to know if the way I plan to join the corners will be sufficiently strong to hold up say 120kg in the second floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The loft bed is 1920 x 896 x 2330 and I'm using 48x68 wooden beams. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dBgJF.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dBgJF.png&quot; alt=&quot;Overview of loft bed frame&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it will be sufficient with 80mm screws to join on the the 48mm side, is that correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the 68mm side of the corner pole where the long 1784mm beams will experience more tension, especially on the second floor, I plan to use the same 80mm screws for fastening and add angles below for holding it up. But I'm not sure if this is sufficient to hold up a bunch of jumping kids :P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The design would have been more sturdy if I had a pole down on the front, but the ladder is going on the inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2LQDi.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2LQDi.png&quot; alt=&quot;Outer view corner joint&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dRSDv.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dRSDv.png&quot; alt=&quot;Inner view corner joint&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="977" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T21:43:00.560" Title="Joining corners in a loft bed" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2145" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-02T15:03:22.617" Score="9" ViewCount="836" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to cut a wooden box (3 X 3 X 3 INCH) the same as the attached image.&#xA;Every CNC shop told me that they cannot do that.&#xA;I tried to do it with regular saw, but it wasn't good as you can see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does someone have an idea how to do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;The desired result:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CHXnR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;What I want to achieve&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I did:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yszp4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;My rendition&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="982" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-08-03T17:55:16.393" LastActivityDate="2019-04-05T18:50:49.803" Title="Cutting a wooden box into 2 pieces, with special shape" Tags="|technique|cutting|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2145" CreationDate="2015-08-02T15:25:18.497" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess at how they built this:  Start with two identically shaped squares.  Core out the center half way of each one with a forstner bit.  Then trace the matching patterns onto each piece and cut them out with a bandsaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might also be possible to use a router to cut out the groves instead of a bandsaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, you're going to need very accurate measurements and marks to get this right.  Probably best to cut it a bit &quot;tight&quot; and then chisel down to fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2015-08-02T15:25:18.497" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2145" CreationDate="2015-08-02T16:38:29.383" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Warning&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think it necessary but there are several links in this answer that are directly related to the horror movie Hellraiser. If you have issues with that type of content don't click on the links. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it looks like what you are trying to make is a variation of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hellraiserbox.net/specials_starconfig_13.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Movable Star Lament Configuration&lt;/a&gt;. I cannot seem to find any plans to reference or anyone that has done it will an accurate build process for this so it looks like we have to guess a little. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still was does seen obvious is that we should be using 2 blocks to create this instead of one. A &lt;strong&gt;bandsaw, chisel, gouge and drill press&lt;/strong&gt; appear to be the tools of choice for making this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Make a template&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First thing I would do is make a template on the computer and print them out several times for each face (4 assuming you don't have any oops moments.) You should be able to draw this out with a circle in the middle and a series of intersecting lines. It looks like the block is cut up into 16 equal parts. That gives us angles of 22.5 degrees. So with that in mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fwlnnm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Template&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you could colour or mark the template to show what needs to be removed. The kerf of the blade &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; allow the to fit well if both blocks are cut from the same template&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Circle&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; that you should cut the circle out first. Using a Forstner bit, like &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/users/11/steven&quot;&gt;Steven&lt;/a&gt; suggests, would ensure you get a flat surface when you stop drilling. That's a lot of waste to clear out so make sure you clean out the hole as you progress (not while it is on of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;The &quot;interlock&quot;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the circle is out then you can cut the alternating &quot;keys&quot;. Clean up in between the keys with a chisel and the insides of the keys with a gouge to match the curve of the circle. Worry more about the faces that people will see more then the inside. Just like you see in this photo (before it was cleaned... presumably with a chisel):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xCZry.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xCZry.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;In progress&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thekingofbelgium.com/pics/lament/001.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;thekingofbelgium.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hellraiserpuzzlebox.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Puzzle Box Shop&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An after thought would be you could still use the template and if the &lt;em&gt;outside&lt;/em&gt; edges don't match up perfectly then you could just trim with the bandsaw to make it square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Finishing side note&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the site the where you pictures come from they put an ebony veneer on the end grain of that mahogany wood. Guessing that was done to help make a more uniform stain/finishing. The second set of blocks (candle holders maybe?) also look like they have a veneered top. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2019-04-05T18:50:49.803" LastActivityDate="2019-04-05T18:50:49.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2145" CreationDate="2015-08-03T04:28:48.603" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two boxes in your picture both appear to be composed of many individually-cut parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at the zoomed-in pictures of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hellraiserbox.net/specials_starconfig_13.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the one on the left&lt;/a&gt;, you'll see that the direction of the grain is inconsistent on many parts.  If you look closely at the one on the right, it looks as though the exposed faces, edges, and ends are all veneered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can produce a more seamless-looking box as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut a thin slice off the top and bottom with a bandsaw or handsaw (I'll later refer to these as the top and bottom veneers)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using a Forstner bit, bore a hole all the way through the middle of the block, from top to bottom (preferably with a sacrificial backing board or drilling most of the way through from the top, then flipping the block over and finishing from the bottom side to avoid blowing out the bottom)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make the outward-radiating cuts with a bandsaw or handsaw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut two pieces of dowel (one for each piece of the box, preferably of the same species as the rest of the box for the most seamless appearance)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glue half the &quot;legs&quot; onto one dowel, and the other half onto the other dowel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glue the top veneer onto the top face of the top piece and the bottom veneer onto the bottom face of the bottom piece.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trim the voids out of the veneers, using the legs/rays as your guides.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T04:28:48.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2151" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2164" CreationDate="2015-08-03T13:27:29.190" Score="10" ViewCount="584" Body="&lt;p&gt;This weekend I was using &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/projects/168674&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;my shavehorse&lt;/a&gt; to make some wooden spatulas.  After a while, the head started losing grip on the pieces I was working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To help improve the grip, I wrapped a piece of leather around the top crossbar and tacked it into place.  While I don't have a picture of this, you can see the crossbar above the platform in the image below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kCzew.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kCzew.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding the leather seemed to help a bit, but the issue still remained.  Looking a little closer, I noticed that the surface of the platform was getting burnished, which would explain why it was so slippery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point I was out of time to work on stuff, so I set it aside.  I could add another piece of leather to the platform, which would probably help with grip.  However, &lt;strong&gt;I'm curious if there are any other ways that I might increase the grip of my shavehorse&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T00:58:57.577" Title="Improve Grip on Shavehorse" Tags="|hand-tools|green-wood|traditional-techniques|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2151" CreationDate="2015-08-03T13:36:34.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of course my first suggestion would be to use a little sand paper, that is a quick and easy solution.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More long lasting my be to put a coat of rubber cement on t and let it dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A different approach might be to glue a rubber mat on it.  something like piece of innertube might work well&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T13:36:34.333" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2151" CreationDate="2015-08-03T14:53:31.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have and never used a horse but I have seen many in use and done some previous research. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leading with my weak suggestion you could use grip tape on either or both sides of the table and clamp/hold. That would have the same effect as sand paper on the work piece so might not be desirable. It should however last longer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps you just need to increase the surface area that touches the work piece. Other bodger-style horses that I have seen have a larger a larger block that the work sits on. If that same block was angled that might help get more of a grip as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another suggestion would be to change the head out for a heavier wood and let gravity help you. You are correct in your comment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the majority of the gripping force comes from the leverage of one's feet on the swinging arm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; the strength of the lever and head and the joint that connects then would make it so you could add more pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm surprised the leather did not help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-08-03T16:15:42.773" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T16:15:42.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2151" CreationDate="2015-08-03T15:56:01.487" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Classic solution for modern jigs and pushsticks is to apply self-adhesive sandpaper to the gripping surface. Various high-friction rubber materials are also used. Not sure what would be best &quot;in period&quot;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T15:56:01.487" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2075" CreationDate="2015-08-03T21:46:55.910" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I can find, information on spraying shellac is somewhat scant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll try to sum up the information I've found, and hopefully it gives you something good, or at least a good starting point to begin your own experimentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://songbirdhd.blogspot.com/2012/05/spraying-shellac.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;songbirdhd.blogspot.com&lt;/a&gt;, the major points are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a one-pound cut (one pound of shellac flakes in one gallon of alcohol), which can be sprayed through any spray gun that will spray lacquer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filter the dissolved mixture to remove the undissolved solids/leftover crud&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spray thin, even coats&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consider sealing the grain first with an oil-based polyurethane finish to keep the grain from being raised (alcohol is a polar solvent, like water, and will raise the grain in some woods)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spray 2 light coats, sand with 320-400 grit, spray another 2 light coats, buff with 0000 steel wool (if needed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Spraying_Shellac.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;forum thread&lt;/a&gt; on WoodWeb has the following advice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spraying, considering the lightness of the coats needed for a drip-free finish, takes much longer than brushing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're to level the finish (i.e., sand flat after the finish has hardened), brushing is generally faster&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Premixed shellac sprays have a shelf life - avoid any with a manufactured date over 1 year, or mix your own from flakes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A shellac finish is &lt;strong&gt;much&lt;/strong&gt; easier to repair than other finishes (rub out, reapply a thin coat, sand flat, polish)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Saw Mill Creek user Todd Burch &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?20897-need-advice-on-spraying-shellac&amp;amp;s=1bf17b70af8f39e7ca8cabf95d01fcb2&amp;amp;p=185921#post185921&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;has this to say&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've sprayed a lot of shellac. Sealcoat, for my taste, is ready to shoot right out of the can. I'm not familiar with that HF gun. Get some cardboard, or scrap plywood, or a roll of butcher paper you can rip off and toss in the trash and practice in a vertical mode until you get comfortable with the flow and pattern. Horizontal is easy - a thick wet finish resting flat won't run as easily. Shellac will run quick, so dryer coats are better than wetter coats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My approach to spraying shellac is this... you are going to be rubbing it out anyway, so why waste time trying to get a perfect finish by spraying the perfect coat? Just get it on there and build it up. Do 4 or 5 coats in a day. After the first coat dries for about an hour, sand with 220 FRE CUT paper, then get the other coats on there. Let it dry overnight and the next day 220 or 320 it again. No muss, no fuss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a gravity gun, you are limited in the positioning and angle of the gun more so than with the other styles of guns. If you will be shooting inside a cabinet or box, or at weird angles, plan your route ahead of time and maybe rearrange your project mid way through so that you can achieve consistent coverage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being new to spraying, there are a few things you should read up on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are measuring devices that tell you the viscosity of fluids. There are several types: Ford cups are one style, and there are others (can't remember...). Basically how they work is you fill them up with what you will be spraying and time how long it takes for them to drip out the little hole in the bottom of the cup. (Measurements like &amp;quot;4 seconds in a #2 cup&amp;quot;, or some such specification. I don't know that Sealcoat specifies this on the can, but maybe you could find it on the Zinsser web site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also there are fluid and pressure adjustments on your gun (I'm assuming). You'll want to find the right mix to give you a good pattern. There is a technique to holding the gun too (distance from the work, speed at which you move, angle of the gun, how you overlap passes, how you shoot off the edge, etc., etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a thing called a &amp;quot;wet mil gauge&amp;quot;. This is a business-card shaped piece of metal, (maybe plastic), kinda-sorta notched like a trowel around the edges, but the notches are different sizes and stepped for height. How it works is that you spray a section of wood, and while it is wet, you place the edge of the gauge in the wet finish and remove it. Depending on what footprints it leaves in your finish, you can tell how many mils thick your wet coat is. Again, most quality finishes will give you a specification for how thick you should be spraying, i.e., 4 to 5 wet mils per coat, two coats, or whatever. There is also a dry gauge too, but I haven't used one of those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both the viscosity cups and the wet mil gauge are tools I don't use every time I spray. But, when you or I are learning, or spraying a finish that we haven't sprayed before, or are in doubt, or we're having issues, they are excellent aids to confirm what we might otherwise be guessing at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick google search for &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=spraying%20shellac&amp;amp;ie=utf-8&amp;amp;oe=utf-8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;spraying shellac&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; will turn up many other results, but I've tried to summarize what I think is some pertinent information above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as how to mount your pieces in your spray booth, the best advice I can give you is to mount it such that you can easily access the areas you are trying to spray.  It all depends on what exactly you're trying to finish.  For example, doors may be hung from the ceiling to access virtually the entire panel at once like so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S8TZx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S8TZx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.franklinfinishing.com/Images/home_page/640/1global.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FranklinFinishing.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T22:00:29.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2151" CreationDate="2015-08-04T08:25:14.783" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To help improve the grip, I wrapped a piece of leather around the top crossbar and tacked it into place. ...Adding the leather seemed to help a bit, but the issue still remained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that the leather is one or both of the following, 1, too thin, 2, too smooth (much modern leather has a glazed surface and not inherently suited to this application). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try using the flesh side of the leather you have, but in addition or instead of this I think you should pad the leather from the back so that it can deform around the workpiece more and that will improve the grip substantially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm curious if there are any other ways that I might increase the grip of my shavehorse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Push with your legs harder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds too simple but this is precisely the mechanism that the shavehorse/shaving mule is designed to take advantage of. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should sort of happen naturally as you work the wood so it may indicate you're sitting a little further back on the bench than is ideal, so that your legs are initially more extended than they should be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T08:25:14.783" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2159" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-04T15:31:43.803" Score="7" ViewCount="9296" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm up at the cottage and I wanted to make myself a traditional bow saw. I got this green  piece of poplar and I need to debark it before I rip it. It's about 4-5 inches in diameter if that matters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fwf7j.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fwf7j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The Log!&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What tools can I use to remove the bark? It is not peeling by hand and my pocket knife would be tedious. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-08-18T15:26:13.233" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T15:26:13.233" Title="How can I debark wood?" Tags="|hand-tools|green-wood|traditional-techniques|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2159" CreationDate="2015-08-04T15:43:39.180" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;A draw knife is one traditional tool used to remove bark. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Np0u.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Np0u.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;draw knife at wiki&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a folding pocket knife, you might be able to hack it into a mini-draw-knife- wedge the tip into a small stick, use tape or twine to close up the split, then use the body of the knife as one handle, and the stick as the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T15:43:39.180" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2159" CreationDate="2015-08-04T15:58:59.700" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @TXTurner suggests, a drawknife is great for bark removal.  The dirt, grit, and grime in the bark will dull the blade faster, so it might be a good idea to have a drawknife dedicated for the task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.americantrails.org/resources/info/tools8.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;National Trails Training Partnership&lt;/a&gt; also suggests the following tools:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bark/Peeling Spud&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/41F2y.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/41F2y.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/images/598-620800-New-lg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TraditionalWoodworker.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;(Carpenter) Adze&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gArsD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gArsD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/us/images/item/woodworking/logbuild/82u0201s2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lee Valley&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also suggest using a hatchet or small axe for bark removal.  I've done this plenty of times with good results.  Using a broad axe or a side axe will help speed things up since they're made for this sort of thing.  Side axes only have a bevel on one side thus they are much less likely (or entirely unlikely, if properly sharpened) to bounce off the log and into your leg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Broad Axe&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/euAAG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/euAAG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gransforsbruk.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/481_482_483-Timmberbila-1900.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gransfors Bruk&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Side Axe&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VqgSB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VqgSB.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.antiquetools.co.uk/product_images/TOOLPICS%20001.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;AntiqueTools.co.uk&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-08-04T16:05:32.047" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T16:05:32.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2047" CreationDate="2015-08-04T16:59:54.460" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want the user's hands to rest just above the table. Given that, the distance from the elbow of the sitter to seat of the pants will determine the top of the seat and in turn, the length of the legs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mind you, as BenjaminR pointed out, there is variety among humans, even more so if you consider children as well. I'm a fan of Chairmaking &amp;amp; Design by Jeff Miller, which has number of suggestions on the topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may wish to look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1667/is-there-a-procedure-or-equation-to-calculate-optimal-height-of-a-seat-based-on&quot;&gt;Is there a procedure or equation to calculate optimal height of a seat based on a given person?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T16:59:54.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2047" CreationDate="2015-08-04T17:08:38.587" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This depends on whether you're building furniture for a general population or a specific individual. An individual can tune their furniture to their body. If this is the case and the furniture is for a specific person, you can follow advice from &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1667/is-there-a-procedure-or-equation-to-calculate-optimal-height-of-a-seat-based-on&quot;&gt;Is there a procedure or equation to calculate optimal height of a seat based on a given person?&lt;/a&gt; as others have suggested, or you can simply work with the person to find where they're comfortable, by visiting a furniture store or having the person sit in an adjustable chair to find the height they're comfortable at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't know who will be using your furniture, you need to go for the average person to make your table fit the largest portion of the population possible. To that end, there are &amp;quot;approximate&amp;quot; standards, which are suggestions and an inch or two in either direction won't have a significant impact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A typical dining room has a table at 30 inches and a floor to seat height of 18 inches for the chairs. A typical desk height is 29 inches, and a typical office chair is adjustable, but extrapolating, an average desk chair height would be 17 inches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More generally (from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wayfair.com/Buying-Guides/How-to-Choose-the-Right-Size-Dining-Chairs-E568&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Choose the Right Size Dining Chairs&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Regarding table and chair height:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Allow 12 inches between the seat of your chair and your tabletop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This in particular is the answer to your question. Given a table of x height, the chair seat should be approximately x-12 inches. I would not go with a smaller distance, but one or maybe two inches lower would be OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leave 7 inches between the chair arm and the bottom or apron of the&#xA;table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Regarding chair width:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Provide each guest 24-30 inches at the dining table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For rectangular tables, add an extra 12 inches at each end for those seated  at the head and foot of the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T17:14:40.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2151" CreationDate="2015-08-04T18:34:01.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may just be the perspective or the setup of the photo, but it appears to me that your shave horse is not adjusted quite right.  When you push on the footrest, the swinging arm should not have to travel very far past vertical, and the grip should not be able to swing closer to you than the platform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should either use a taller platform or, better yet, you should move the grip further down on the swinging arm (with your shave horse, this will mean adding more holes).  In your comment, you also mentioned raising the pivot, and that would be even better than simply lowering the grip. Either of these adjustments to the pivot will give you significantly more hold-down pressure without having to exert more force on the footrest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you might recall from grade school or high school, your mechanical advantage with a lever is the ratio of the lengths on either side of the pivot. So if the footrest is 24&quot; and the grip is 12&quot; from the pivot, you have a 2:1 mechanical advantage. If you bring the grip down to 8&quot; from the pivot, you now have a 24:8, or 3:1 mechanical advantage. If you instead raise the pivot by 4&quot;, your mechanical advantage is 28:8, or 3.5:1 (i.e., 3.5). Raising the pivot point even higher will amplify your hold-down pressure even more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One final suggestion: make sure your platform is not too smooth.  It shouldn't be necessary to add friction material; but if you do, add it to the platform that the workpiece rests upon, rather than adding it to the grip (top crossbar).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-08-04T22:34:18.453" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T22:34:18.453" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2151" CreationDate="2015-08-05T00:58:57.577" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sharpen your drawknife.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't a complete solution, but if you look at the question as &quot;how can I reduce the required gripping force&quot; instead of &quot;how can I generate more gripping force,&quot; the obvious answer is to make sure that your tools are as sharp as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T00:58:57.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2166" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2168" CreationDate="2015-08-05T01:58:17.587" Score="7" ViewCount="1344" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a router table top with a laminate surface and a rubber edge band on the sides.  I made it years ago on an MDF core.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I'd like to have a miter slot on it.  How should I go about cutting that slot?  Should I simply fire up the router with a mortising bit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm mostly concerned about cutting through the laminate top and rubber sides.  I'd hate to have the laminate crack or peel chunks of it.  Also, not sure about the advisability of cutting rubber with my router bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice?  Perhaps I should score the laminate somehow before-hand?  Or chop through the rubber with a knife instead of the router bit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="956" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T16:33:49.680" Title="How should I cut a miter slot in my laminated router table?" Tags="|router|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2166" CreationDate="2015-08-05T02:59:37.613" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's how I would go about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, I would score the edges of the miter slot with a very sharp knife to establish your margins.  Ideally, this would go through the laminate, but at the very least should give you a crisp edge.  If I was able to slice through the laminate, I'd then peel it off the top of the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, if I was unable to cut entirely through the laminate, I would use a circular saw with a blade specifically made for laminates (similar to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boschtools.com/Products/Accessories/Pages/BoschAccessoryDetail.aspx?pid=9429&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this Bosch model&lt;/a&gt;) to establish the shoulders of the miter slot and attempt to minimize tearing of the laminate.  I've heard of people mounting the blade backwards to also minimize tearing but haven't tried it myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After having the depth and sides of the miter slot established, it's a simple matter of finishing it off with a straight bit using the router, guided by a straight edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the rubber edge is concerned, you &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; have no issues cutting through it as I have described. If you're still worried about it, I'd just trim out the area with a knife beforehand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-08-05T13:13:17.713" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T13:13:17.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2166" CreationDate="2015-08-05T05:23:47.307" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the router table top is removable, I would just tape over the edges of the slot, turn the top upside-down, and run it over my table saw using a high-tooth-count blade. Dado blade optional; just run multiple passes if using a normal blade. For the cleanest result you should make a very shallow pass first to score the edges, but a miter slot isn't very deep anyway so it may not be necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't worry about the rubber edge banding too much with a table saw blade, but you could wrap tape from the top to the bottom around the edge along the cut line to better secure the rubber edge banding during the cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-08-05T16:33:49.680" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T16:33:49.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2144" CreationDate="2015-08-05T06:50:39.810" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The good news is that, according to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sagulator&lt;/a&gt;, your design should be able to hold a static load of 120kg just fine, and the combination of butt joints and angle bracket reinforcements should support that unmoving, static load as long as you use lag screws or heavy-duty construction or wood screws. Do NOT use drywall screws; they are too brittle and are more likely to shear or break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now for the bad news.  Your structural design is rather weak, and with 120kg moving around a little on top, I would be very concerned about the whole thing starting to lean toward one side (racking) before catastrophically collapsing.  I'll cover a few improvements you can make to make your design stronger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Screws into endgrain do not hold very well&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That section title is pretty self-explanatory. If you drive a screw through one board and into the endgrain of another board, the screw will be much more likely to pull out of the endgrain than it will if you drive the screw into the face or edge of the second board. Toenailing or its fancy cousin, pocket hole joinery, takes advantage of this concept and basically runs the screws in the opposite direction (but at a slight angle, since that's more practical than growing a tree so it will have screws sticking out of its end grain).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reinforce against racking&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply put, racking is any lateral motion where the top and bottom of a structure are moving in opposite directions relative to one another. If you don't properly reinforce against it, racking force can exert tremendous force on your joints, especially right-angle joints, causing the joints to fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would highly recommend adding some diagonal braces across the back and sides to reinforce against racking.  Or you could install plywood or MDF panels across the sides and back to make the structure more rigid.  You could miter the ends and add them in place of the small angle brackets. Or you could use a much larger angle bracket that extends out further from the corner. Either way, you want your structure to be made of big triangles or you want to fill in the rectangles to resist racking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Upgrade your lumber&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The boards you've chosen seem a bit undersized for a bed, even though they certainly can support the static 120kg load.  Certain dense wood species will be fine, but if you're using common construction lumber like Douglas Fir, I'd scale up to a larger size. I'm not sure what lumber sizes you have available in your region, but 48mm x 68mm is roughly the size of a 2x4 here in the states. I personally would opt for the metric equivalent of a 2x6 (1.5&quot;x5.5&quot;) or even a 1x6 (0.75&quot;x5.5&quot;) over a 48mm x 68mm, i.e., a 2x4 (1.5&quot;x3.5&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the greater load-bearing capacity, you can spread out your screws a little more, which will help strengthen the bed somewhat against racking forces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How are you going to get it in and out of the room?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably don't want to build a complex structure like your design entirely in the room, and even if you did, you aren't going to want to completely dismantle it in order to get it out later.  If you examine mass-produced wooden frame beds, you'll notice that the bed often comes apart very easily by lifting and removing the sides, leaving you with two sides, a headboard, and a footboard. Redesign your loft bed so it's made up of a few components that can be easily carried through a zig-zag hallway, up twisting staircases, and through a person-sized door. Consider using knock-down furniture connectors such as the bed rail brackets I mentioned in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/899/49&quot;&gt;another furniture design answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Upgrade the butt joints&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can replace the butt joints with doweled or mortise-and-tenon joints, pocket hole joints, half-laps, or any number of other joints or combinations of joints. Pretty much anything is stronger than a simple butt joint, though with some of the other reinforcements I've mentioned above, the butt joints will be strong enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, you can add cleats on the inside corners of your butt joints so that you can screw into the edge or face grain of both pieces, rather than relying on a screw holding in endgrain without splitting the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that these other types of joints either require glue or can be further strengthened by adding glue. Granted, you may need to make special considerations for glue joints if you also want to make the bed knock-down, but it won't be too difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T07:34:27.057" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2144" CreationDate="2015-08-05T10:17:26.177" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rob's answer is extremely detailed and thorough but I'll answer based on the assumption that you don't want to upgrade your joinery in any way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Screws alone could be sufficient for something like this given the length of screw you list. You didn't specify the wood you're using and this is a critical factor for structural strength as well as its holding power when it comes to screws, so assuming it is softwood I think it's vital that you drive in any that will enter end grain at a slight angle (toenailing as rob's answer refers to). This is less critical for hardwoods but is worth doing with them also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the screws may be sufficient I think you should reinforce every joint in one of two ways. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can ensure your mating surfaces meet very accurately at 90° and that the end grain is sanded smooth, glue each joint. This will add &lt;em&gt;significantly&lt;/em&gt; to the strength, far more than most people would suppose*. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If time or equipment limitations don't permit refining the end grain faces as needed for a good glue joint I think you should use some steel brackets for peace of mind. Even the smallest type shown below will greatly strengthen the overall structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/knPlY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/knPlY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Two-screw corner bracket&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Recent testing of glued end-grain/long-grain joints has shown that despite the traditional belief handed down to us that this is very weak it can in fact create a joint stronger than the surrounding wood, i.e. breaking it apart tears off edge grain from the verticals instead of cracking through the glue joint itself. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pbY6QstUS-4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this YouTube video&lt;/a&gt; for a brief demonstration. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T10:17:26.177" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2171" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-05T12:44:44.987" Score="8" ViewCount="443" Body="&lt;p&gt;Still at the cottage and trying to make a bow saw out of some green poplar. There was a comment on my last question about being sure that I cleaned my tools after working green wood. Specifically there was a comment about being sure to use oil on the tools. I don't know if it matters what kind of oil or how it should be applied and removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I do with my tools after they worked green wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-08-06T14:39:30.260" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T14:23:51.947" Title="Cleaning tools after working green wood" Tags="|hand-tools|green-wood|tool-maintenance|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2171" CreationDate="2015-08-05T13:09:24.467" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The big problem with green wood is moisture.  it has lots of water and of course iron tools don't like that.  Some wood has pitch which of course sticks to to tools and can be cleaned with a solvent like paint thinner.  Some saps are also mildly corrosive so, my recommendation would generally be to wipe down the tools dry them up and put a light oil on them.  It could be something as simple as spraying them down with WD-40.  They won't need a lot.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T13:09:24.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2171" CreationDate="2015-08-05T13:10:30.020" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simply, wipe any dirt, grime, and possibly pitch off the tool surfaces (you can use water or another solvent if it's really stubborn) and dry thoroughly.  Mind the edges when you're doing do, both from rubbing too much grit in them an dulling them and being careful not to cut yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, I use whatever oil is handy.  Usually this is 3-in-1 oil, but occasionally paste wax, beeswax, air tool oil, boiled linseed oil, Boeshield, or even tallow of some sort find their way into being used.  Just wipe on a thin layer and it should be ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really all you want to do is put some sort of film that prevents oxidation of the surface rust, so any sort of hydrophobic material is adequate.  Some may last longer than others (like the thick, goopy layer of cosmoline I've found on new old stock firearms compared to a coat of WD-40, but we all know which would be preferable for coating an often-used tool).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-08-06T14:18:50.233" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T14:18:50.233" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2171" CreationDate="2015-08-05T16:56:19.103" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any WD-40 there? That's a great product to use for this application as it will do two desired things simultaneously: acts as a solvent for any resins or gums left on the surface and drives out water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;WD-40 is an acceptable rust-preventative for the short term but if you want better protection wipe on a coat of nearly any available oil or grease. Literally almost everything other than butter is fine* including &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; cooking oils or salad oils, lard, vegetable shortening, mineral oil, baby oil (also mineral oil, just scented) or petroleum jelly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TBH I don't think you need to be overly worried about this though. I've worked with wettish wood a few times recently (not green, just still damp from being waterlogged) and I haven't had any problems with rusting. Any tools that don't have stainless steel blades would have been greased or waxed at some point previously and after use I just wiped clean with paper towels and stored them, without incident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Butter contains a surprising amount of water, &gt;15% in the US.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T16:56:19.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2175" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2176" CreationDate="2015-08-05T18:18:06.207" Score="15" ViewCount="8807" Body="&lt;p&gt;A local wood trader has shown me some thermally modifid ash planks (never seen that before!) with a stunning coloring that almost seduced me to immediately buy a table and two benches worth of it and build some new massive garden furniture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the wood is &lt;em&gt;thermally modified&lt;/em&gt;. Which basically means it went into a kiln at a somewhat higher temperature and underwent a heat-induced chemical reaction. I had never seen such a wood (if you can still call it that) before. It's apparently a rather new thing (less than 20 years old) too.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I could gather from various (partially contradicting) sources, this means:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Greatly improved resistance to fungi and parasites, suitable for outdoor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Even woods like beech and oregon pine are resistance class 1-2 after treatment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Best invention since the invention of the wheel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wood almost doesn't work any more (50-75% reduction in shrinkage/growth, nearly no water uptake)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No treatment needed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Treatment recommended (... OK?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Varnish needed, oiling before varnish recommended to give the wood back its elasticity (how would that work???)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insufficient data for close-to-earth placement, might not be good (WTF?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Darker color (very obvious, and good looking, main reason to buy!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Harder, but somewhat more brittle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Need to pre-drill big screws (Wow, I wouldn't have guessed that!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not recommended to have too sharp edges in the open (Again, wow, what an insight!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slightly less stable (slightly? how much?), not suitable for construction (why not, if it's just &lt;em&gt;slightly&lt;/em&gt; weaker?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glue might take up to 10 times as long to dry (... but, will it &lt;em&gt;hold&lt;/em&gt;?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what does that mean in summary? And does one of you maybe have experience working with that and can confirm or deny any of the above?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, when someone tells me &quot;hard and brittle&quot;, I come to think of mineral substances. As in, giving that ultra-fine dust that causes lung cancer when being worked. Not exactly what I'd like.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When someone tells me &quot;controlled, partial combustion, chemical change&quot;, I come to think of &quot;easily flammable&quot; and &quot;unknown evaporations&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there some obvious and maybe not-so-obvious reasons why one wouldn't want to use such a kind of wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="135" LastActivityDate="2017-11-24T23:39:49.970" Title="Are there any serious and non-obvious disadvantages to thermally modified wood?" Tags="|wood|thermally-modified|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2175" CreationDate="2015-08-05T18:50:05.723" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lee Valley has begun using what they call &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=72116&amp;amp;cat=1,41182,72240&amp;amp;ap=1&quot;&gt;torrefied wood&lt;/a&gt;&quot; in their plane totes and knobs, which seems like the same thing as what you're explaining above.  To quote:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All totes are made using domestic torrefied maple – wood treated with a heating process that changes the structure of the wood at the cellular level, stabilizing it against the swelling and shrinkage caused by humidity changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://newbiomass.com/our-products/torrefied-wood/&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torrefaction&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; for an explanation of torrefaction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I had to guess, heating the wood to a higher temperature than normal might begin crystallizing the sugars leftover in the wood or making them react chemically with the rest of the wood fibers, essentially turning them into something more mineral-like than organic.  I'm imagining something like petrification, but not to such an extreme extent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This, in turn, would make the wood harder and more brittle since you are changing the fibrous nature of the wood.  I imagine this is why it's recommended against for construction - brittle failure of structural elements is generally to be avoided since it's a sudden failure as opposed to a gradual (i.e., noticeable ahead of time) failure. I speak as a structural engineer here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as your comment about partial combustion being more prone to future flammability, that's not necessarily true.  Historically, wood was sometimes pre-flamed on the outside before use in building.  This resulted in an outer skin that was initially more resistant to fire than raw wood.  Also, since the torrefied wood is made harder and less fibrous, it would naturally be less prone to ignition.  This is why it's easier to light a bundle of fluffy grass (loose, very fibrous) than a log (dense, not so fibrous).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One perhaps non-obvious disadvantage might be that since the wood is denser and having a slightly different chemical composition, it could be more abrasive or just harder on tool edges.  Think of the difference between working pine and working a much harder wood like purpleheart or a siliceous wood like teak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-08-05T20:11:10.243" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T20:11:10.243" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2175" CreationDate="2015-08-06T10:12:56.550" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Now, the wood is thermally modified. Which basically means it went into a kiln at a somewhat higher temperature and underwent a heat-induced chemical reaction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thermal modification of wood into what is variously called roasted, toasted, caramelized or more technically torrefied wood takes place at significantly higher temperatures than are used in conventional kiln drying (more than double). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although the process can turn a bland species into something that looks a bit special I think you were wise to hold out on buying some, for furniture applications at least. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the modified material looks good and can feel great there are some significant issues working with it that may confront the woodworker trying to use it as you would normal lumber. Its brittleness is often cited as an issue (leading to flaking and splitting) and the hold of fasteners is/can be greatly compromised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;oiling before varnish recommended to give the wood back its elasticity (how would that work???)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be sceptical about this claim too. Oil penetration, except in end grain, is usually very shallow in wood. Obviously that's with unmodified wood with a higher water content, but still I'd want to see some evidence before believing oiling would do anything other than provide a surface treatment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Glue might take up to 10 times as long to dry (... but, will it hold?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The glue taking longer to dry makes sense — most wood glues actually &lt;em&gt;dry&lt;/em&gt; dry; that is, they set by dehydration and the roasted wood is inherently less absorbent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some good reasons to suppose that glue joints, particularly with conventional wood glues, will not be as strong as with untreated wood. There is some technical data (I think from the US Forest Products Laboratory) showing this, and the practical experiences of some woodworkers bear this out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expect that epoxy will turn out to be the ideal glue for this material, after the joint faces are prepared suitably (roughened in some way, or undercuts created for a gross mechanical hold as some knifemakers use for attaching knife scales to the tang).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When someone tells me &quot;controlled, partial combustion, chemical change&quot;, I come to think of &quot;easily flammable&quot; and &quot;unknown evaporations&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would guess that this material, just on general principles, would burn more easily than regular wood, even if merely because the moisture content is lower. And there is quite a bit of data online about torrefaction being used to increase the energy density of woody biomass to turn it into a better fuel for electricity generation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;evaporations&quot; thing I would presume is a non-issue, the heating process actually removes some of the VOCs from wood so the modified material is lower in evaporative compounds (or &lt;em&gt;extractives&lt;/em&gt; as they're called in the industry) than the starting wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;when someone tells me &quot;hard and brittle&quot;, I come to think of mineral substances. As in, giving that ultra-fine dust that causes lung cancer when being worked. Not exactly what I'd like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not relating to this material specifically but since this is a woodworking forum I feel the need to mention that there is no conclusive data to suggest that woodworking-associated dust inhalation increases risk of lung cancer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is however a causal link established with a (very rare) form of nasal cancer, and exclusively with occupational exposure (large amounts, over a long time) and to hardwood dusts specifically.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/wis30.pdf&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;, Health and Safety Executive document (UK Government).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://safemanitoba.com/sites/default/files/uploads/bulletins/bltn238_mar2011.pdf&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;, SafeWork Manitoba document.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.osha.gov/pls/oshaweb/owadisp.show_document?p_id=770&amp;amp;p_table=preambles&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;, OSHA regulations, section VI, &lt;em&gt;Health Effects Discussion and Determination of Final PEL&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T10:12:56.550" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2178" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2179" CreationDate="2015-08-06T19:00:43.057" Score="8" ViewCount="1131" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few weeks ago, I found a really nice stick. I carved it and sanded it into a walking stick. I want to apply polyurethane, but I don't know how. I have several cans (the spray-on kind) of it in my garage. This is my first woodworking project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if I were to woodburn it, should I do that before application of polyurethane?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1001" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-08-06T19:35:20.993" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T13:19:43.497" Title="How to apply polyurethane?" Tags="|finishing|burning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2178" CreationDate="2015-08-06T19:32:42.007" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will want to do the woodburning before you apply finish.  It's usually a good idea to lightly sand the area around the woodburn after doing the burning and before applying finish.  Woodburning has a tendency to create little ridges at the periphery of the burn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you remove all of the sanding dust from the stick before applying finish.  This can be done with a rag wet with water or mineral spirits, or you can use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/tack-cloth&quot;&gt;tack cloth&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Applying polyurethane may be done with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://hostedmedia.reimanpub.com/TFH/Step-By-Step/display/FH01DJA_POLYFI_02.jpg&quot;&gt;bristle brush&lt;/a&gt;, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://images.meredith.com/diy/images/2009/02/p_SCN_136_06.jpg&quot;&gt;foam brush&lt;/a&gt;, or even a rag.  It all depends on the type you have bought, and the can will give you directions for applying the finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a spray polyurethane, read and follow the directions to see the ideal shake time and distance from which to spray the finish.  Remember that it is best to apply several light coats instead of one very thick coat.  This is because the light coats will dry more evenly with less dripping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-08-06T20:16:15.950" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T20:16:15.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2178" CreationDate="2015-08-07T13:19:43.497" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What @grfrazee said, plus...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your garden (assuming you do not own a professional laquerer shop with suction, &lt;em&gt;which you don't&lt;/em&gt;, seeing how you ask), with a breathing mask, gloves, and long sleeves on. Not anything different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PU is pretty idle, safe and chemically neutral once hardened, but this cannot be said about the various other isocyanates that are part of any PU product and that you get in contact with during application. That stuff is the Devil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Skin contact can cause allergies (use a lot of water and soap if you have contact, no dissolvents!), inhalation can cause acute asthma and seizures, depending no dose. As a &quot;free bonus&quot;, isocyanates are cancerogenous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A simple A1B1P2 (EN 141:1990) class breathing filter (20€) is sufficient, but the &quot;normal&quot; home-improvement-store single-use dust filters &lt;strong&gt;are not&lt;/strong&gt;. That kind of &quot;piece of cloth&quot; filter doesn't eliminate the fumes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="135" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T13:19:43.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2181" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2183" CreationDate="2015-08-07T20:32:54.550" Score="15" ViewCount="3322" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the speed of sanding a piece of wood affect the end result?  In particular, what is the point of having a dual speed random orbital sander?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T11:00:56.597" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T11:00:56.597" Title="Does the speed of sanding a piece of wood affect the end result?" Tags="|sanding|ros|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2181" CreationDate="2015-08-07T21:30:52.557" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Variable speed sanders are most useful for heat sensitive materials, which wood is not. (At least not to the range of temperatures that sanding will generally expose it too!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A variable speed sander can help control the amount of material removed if you're just trying to make a light pass though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T21:30:52.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2181" CreationDate="2015-08-07T22:12:49.143" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lower speed can be desirable if you're sanding between thin coats of finish or thin veneers, and you don't want to sand through the current coat or the veneer. But many of the lower-end or homeowner-grade random orbit sanders aren't aggressive enough for it to matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with many tools, lower speeds on a sander offer more control, so you may avoid rounding off corners or having the sander skip or jump and gouge the material (particularly if you're using a more aggressive sander).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some tools have sanding attachments which only work well at lower speeds. For example, if you use an oscillating multi-tool for sanding at the tool's higher speeds, the hooks for the hook-and-loop backing pad will melt, rendering the attachment useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-08-08T04:13:53.303" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T04:13:53.303" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1436" CreationDate="2015-08-08T03:55:59.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently in the process of making a 5 piece crown molding to compliment some old growth long leaf pine that I installed on my walls.  I found this link to be helpful to describe a ton of mordants and dyes that can be used to chemically age and alter the color of wood without staining, which never looks authentic to me because it takes the natural depth of color out of the wood.  They also sell the stuff, but a lot of them can be conveniently found at the hardware store for less money: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodfinishingenterprises.com/dyes.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.woodfinishingenterprises.com/dyes.html&lt;/a&gt;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process I am using is not quick, but the results are great so I'll share:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**#1) Create man-made wear marks if you like.  beat the heck out of the wood to the degree you want, then beat it a little more because you'll wish you had in the end:  I've rolled a manual lawn edger over it, a pick axe, chains with bolts attached to the links, etc. then put the wood face-down onto your driveway and drive over it... it will make many small random impressions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**#2) Create nature marks. put several screws in a random pattern into the end of a 4' to 5' long 1x2 or 1x4. Beat the wood with it to create worm holes.  drag an awl with the grain to create as many cracks you want to the depth that you like.  you can also create minor surface checking by whacking it parallel to the grain with a sharp knife or machete. Don't heasitate with the beating, the best looking marks you'll make are the ones that you think you've gone too far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**#3) Chemically Grey the wood out using one of the techniques described above. I used 3 TBS Copperas from the hardware store dissolved in 1qt of water.  Use gloves and do it outside because you want to minimize your exposure to it until the wood is sealed. Let it dry then liberally apply strong tea.  As it dries it will turn dark.  Once it dries I brush it with a wire brush attached to my drill.  Brush it as much as you like, creating grooves and brushing the dark off.  If you have brushed to the degree of weathering you are after and the wood is too dark, you can lighten it by wiping the wood with a smooth cloth slightly dampened with a diluted deck cleaner that contains oxalic acid. I use Behr concentrate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**#4) Set the tone or color of the wood you want by tinting shellac with water- based stain colorant.  If you are going to top coat with a polyurethane you must use dewaxed shellac.  lightly and sparingly apply the tinted shellac with a flat cloth like a sheet or t-shirt so that the shellac doesnt penetrate into the grooves or marks you've beat into the wood. apply as many coats as you like to achieve the desired tone of the wood, but let it dry between coats.  once you are satisfied, let it dry overnight to seal the pores in the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**#5) Apply a water based dye or tinting glaze of your choice as liberally or sparingly as you like.  I like to see into the wood (depth of color), so I avoid glazes and simply followed up with strong tea, but you can use a Rit dye from the grocery store or TransTint makes some great wood dyes. liberally brush the dye on the wood, making sure you are getting into the cracks. It won't penetrate into the shellac treated areas. Let it dry overnight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**#6) apply the topcoat of your choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps provide someone inspiration to creating a natural-looking weathered wood appearance.  I'm a bit of a purest and mighty picky, but I'm very happy with the results this process achieves.**   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1003" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T03:55:59.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2181" CreationDate="2015-08-08T04:35:58.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the other comments: sanding produces heat. Depending on what you're doing, it may be possible to produce enough heat to affect the wood's color, &quot;burning&quot; the surface a bit. That's more likely with cutting tools, but a really aggressive sander could do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, yeah, mostly it's a matter of getting the job done quickly traded off against the risk of losing control and taking more than you intended or sanding irregularly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T04:35:58.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2011" CreationDate="2015-08-08T06:55:49.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it ever make sense to use a climbing cut on a table-saw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;NO. It never makes sense to feed lumber from the back of a table saw.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't do it. If you're thinking of doing it, stop, and then don't start again. There are many reasons not to do it, and zero reasons to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;We make climb cuts with a router mainly to avoid tear out in situations where the grain makes that likely. Climb cutting in such situations lets the remaining wood support the area where the cut is occurring. Tear out usually isn't as great a problem on a table saw, and when it is a concern you have several options (none of which involve feeding from the back!): 1) use a zero-clearance insert, so that the wood is supported right up to the cut line; 2) flip the work over and cut  with the good side up; 3) use a sharper blade; 4) protect the cut edge with additional material such as tape or a thin piece of sacrificial stock.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T07:07:31.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2181" CreationDate="2015-08-08T11:31:53.863" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actual scorching of wood is possible with a belt sander running at a high enough speed and with the wood held tightly against the belt (particularly a problem with worn belts). That's the most obvious 'effect' resulting from speed that I can think of sanding wood itself and it's a flaw in sanding technique and not directly a fault of the sander. But other than that the sanded surface created with grit X is the same whether achieved at high or low speed — the scratch pattern is &lt;em&gt;identical&lt;/em&gt; as far as I can tell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re. random-orbit sanders though I would expect that a slower speed would be offered for two reasons: to help reduce the tendency towards corning (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1876/what-are-these-brown-spots-on-my-sandpaper&quot;&gt;previous Question&lt;/a&gt;) with resinous woods and when sanding finish, but primarily to help make sanding more controllable, e.g when sanding thin veneers, near edges or corners, or when sanding a finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are multiple issues sanding finish, the most obvious being that it's very easy to inadvertently sand through to the bare wood, but also many finishes are heat-sensitive so higher sanding speeds can sort of melt their surface, leading to corning as well as a sub-par sanded finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T11:31:53.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2188" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-08T20:54:12.557" Score="8" ViewCount="990" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a Stanley No 4 plane to refurbish and then use in my shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Cam on the Lever Cap only seems to move in the wrong direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this the wrong Lever Cap for the Stanley No 4 plane?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jp7Jc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jp7Jc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;top view of planer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ddlox.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ddlox.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;lever cap&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pEdjj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pEdjj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;lever cap direction&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photos from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.flickr.com/photos/xriva18707/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;my flickr&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1006" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-08-08T21:25:40.393" LastActivityDate="2015-11-26T14:42:14.307" Title="Stanley Bailey No 4 Plane - Level Cap / Cam Wrong?" Tags="|hand-tools|plane|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2188" CreationDate="2015-08-08T22:00:44.867" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, that lever cap doesn't appear to be wrong at a glance and it should be able to swivel the other direction. I assume you've tried rotating it the other way when it is removed from the plane. The spring will provide some resistance when the lever cap is removed and you try to rotate the cam the right direction, but not that much resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There could be some corrosion or gunk in the gap between the cam and the body of the lever cap. Try saturating the area around the mechanism with some penetrating oil like Blaster 16-PB (more commonly called PB Blaster), work the cam back and forth, and spray it again. Let it sit for a while, then try again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy PB Blaster at any auto parts store or in the automotive department of pretty much any superstore (e.g., Walmart), and probably most hardware stores and home improvement stores. Usually it's on the shelf in the same general area as WD-40. Note that it gets on everything and it has a pretty strong smell, so you might want to use it outside or in the garage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At worst, if the fit is just too tight between the end of the cam and the cap iron body, you could rotate the cam backwards and file off the end a tiny bit at a time (assuming that is the part interfering with normal operation), until it will finally rotate in the right direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-08-08T22:05:54.947" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T22:05:54.947" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2191" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-09T14:48:56.167" Score="7" ViewCount="667" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old painted wooden bench that I want to refinish. The existing paint, dark blue with some toll-work flowers, is firmly on (no chipping or flaking) but faded and rubbed through in many places. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/58uoq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/58uoq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bench old finish&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to change the color overall to a dark green, but let some of the under-paint (and maybe even a little bare wood) show through. How can I do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not talking about a glaze that gives a slight tint and then collects in the seams and cracks, but an overall color change with hints of the earlier paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What comes to mind is cleaning with mineral spirits, maybe a very light sanding, followed by an application of a satin water-based enamel which gets lightly rubbed off as I go. Or would I be better off with a spray shellac followed by milk paint and then a sealer of poly or wax? Or is there some other technique? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do want it durable enough for regular use. Suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastEditorUserId="75" LastEditDate="2015-08-09T15:11:48.830" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T11:31:55.370" Title="Letting the under-paint show through" Tags="|finishing|refinishing|paint|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2191" CreationDate="2015-08-09T15:02:57.470" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends what type of finish you're looking for. The most common method I've seen is to paint the entire piece, let it dry, then sand through the new paint in a few places for a distressed appearance.  You could also paint the whole piece, but wipe off the new paint in some places before it dries.  Or, before painting, you could rub wax in a few areas where you don't want the new paint to adhere very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T15:02:57.470" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2011" CreationDate="2015-08-09T20:15:29.877" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Despite all the no, No, NO, &lt;strong&gt;NO!!!&lt;/strong&gt; I have just done it. I needed to cut a slot/dado in piece of wood and the only way to properly align the cut was to lower the piece onto the blade and then do a climbing cut for a cm or two before sawing the normal way. Since it is a dangerous cut I stood to the side of the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It worked just as planned.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Dangerous? no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To experiment, I put sideways pressure on the piece and it flew away, just as suspected/planned. I still not consider this dangerous since I was to the side of the table and the piece would have to fly 2 meters before bouncing of the ground, 2 meters back and then manage to hit me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the answer the the question is &lt;em&gt;It depends&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastEditorUserId="400" LastEditDate="2015-08-10T10:18:32.123" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T10:18:32.123" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2075" CreationDate="2015-08-10T08:08:33.890" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So a few things I found out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The coats are much lighter than brushing with the same cut. I did 6 coasts to get to about 4 normally.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is much more even than brushing. The coats are so light, I only started to get wet spots towards the end.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Because the coats were lighter, I found it quicker. Each coat was 2 passes but it still dried faster.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is a good idea if you have surface area to cover. For small and tight things, brushing is going to be easier.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am pretty sure I used more shellac than brushing. I was using MDF which sucks it up hence why I am not 100% sure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleanup was quicker. No brush, just metho in the cup and spray through.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I probably wouldn't recommend for someone not familiar with shellac. It takes lots of coats brushing and spraying needs even more.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I had a ~15-20cm fan and was ~20-30cm away from the work piece.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my bigger projects, I will certainly spray again. For my smaller ones, I'll probably stick to brushing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="394" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T08:08:33.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2191" CreationDate="2015-08-10T11:31:55.370" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am not talking about a glaze that gives a slight tint and then collects in the seams and cracks, but an overall color change with hints of the earlier paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is very easily achieved using one or both of these techniques: wiping and abrasion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is simply to selectively wipe at the paint as you apply it, with your brush or roller in one hand and a clean rag or piece of burlap in the other. With enamel or oil paint the cloth can be dampened in spirits or turpentine to increase the working window for this basic method from minutes to an hour or more (wear gloves and work in a well-ventilated place if doing it this way, especially if using turpentine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second is to paint, let the paint dry (see note 1 re. drying time) then abrade the paint from the piece where you want some previous colour to show through. Removing the paint can be done in part by scraping with various tools, but is most commonly done using sandpaper, steel wool and Scotch-Brite or an equivalent. Even stainless steel pot scourers can be used if the coarser scratches they leave are acceptable. See also note 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course there's no reason you have to use one or the other, both techniques can be used if desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note 1, drying time: some guides call for waiting for the paint to fully dry, or cure, before starting abrading work, others suggest that you can start as soon as the paint is dry to the touch. Needless to say both work — the paint comes off either way — just slightly differently. And you can of course start as soon as the paint is touch-dry and then do further work later on when the paint has cured. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice I haven't found either to be the best approach and both have their place. With some paints they come off a little too easily when just dry, but this can be used deliberately for edges and around handles where you want to mimic the paint having worn through completely from long use. The effect is sometimes a bit coarse or crude, but this is easily made more subtle later on with finer abrasives and light rubbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note 2, when working with waterbased paints: an additional aid for this technique that's sometimes advised is to rub a candle or piece of wax on edges, around knobs etc. where you want to show particular wear. The paint won't adhere to the wax and it is then much more easily abraded from the surface after being allowed to cure. This tip is particularly useful when using milk paint which is very tough and resilient when cured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The usual advice with any techniques like this is to practice on a scrap piece first to get a feel for it. That's not really possible here, so if possible practice on the back or at least a less-visible portion of the piece before committing to the most visible areas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T11:31:55.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2196" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2201" CreationDate="2015-08-10T17:27:57.393" Score="13" ViewCount="46495" Body="&lt;p&gt;I mounted my plunge router to a new router table this weekend.  I discovered very quickly that it is difficult to adjust the router bit height, as the springs (the very heavy springs!) end up fighting my efforts.  Yes, I can use the micro-adjustment mechanism, but due to the awkwardness, I basically ended up taking the router and insert plate out of the table every time I wanted to make a change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I doing something wrong?  Is it okay to use my plunge router on my router table?  Is it safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="956" LastActivityDate="2016-09-11T19:54:25.783" Title="Is a plunge router suitable for router table work?" Tags="|router|router-table|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2196" CreationDate="2015-08-10T17:43:03.903" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think most router tables are set up to use a fixed-base router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodcraft.com/product/847824/jessem-mastrlift-ii-router-lift-with-914-x-1134-plate-jessem-02120.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jess-Em Mast-R-Lift&lt;/a&gt; pictured below specifies using a fixed base router.  The lift mechanism itself provides the height adjustment, thus the plunge function of the router is redundant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E7CUz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E7CUz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think it's unsafe to use a plunge-type router with a lift so long as you have the plunge mechanism effectively disabled and the base immobilized.  However, I'd hazard to guess that you have a higher chance of the router binding on a part of the lift since plunge routers tend to have odd pieces sticking out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it's worth noting that some router tables only accept specific router models, so bear that in mind for what you end up buying/using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T17:43:03.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2198" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2200" CreationDate="2015-08-10T17:49:20.010" Score="8" ViewCount="377" Body="&lt;p&gt;I spray often, but for the most part it's latex based. I've been wanting to stretch my woodworking skills and have tried some different oil-based materials. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With water-based material I just rinse and cycle water through until it's clean: Fill -&gt; Cycle -&gt; Dump. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been doing this with lacquer thinner but feel that I'm using too much. It seems to take almost a small quart to clean my machine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I approach oil based differently, and how do you do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="947" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-08-13T15:34:16.993" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T15:34:16.993" Title="Cleaning a Sprayer from Oil-Based Material" Tags="|tool-maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2196" CreationDate="2015-08-10T18:05:40.080" Score="11" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it okay to use my plunge router on my router table? Is it safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's okay to use a plunge router in a router table, but some work better than others. Safety practices might vary depending on the type of mechanism your setup uses for the router lift, but generally speaking, using a plunge router in a router table is just as safe as using a fixed-base router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Am I doing something wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some plunge routers are actually designed to be used as router lifts with above-table adjustments, and you may want to check your router model to see if it has an above-table height-adjustment feature built-in. Some fixed-height router bases such as the Bosch RA1161 (and the &quot;undermount&quot; RA1165 which is identical but without any handles) also feature above-the-table adjustment via a long hex key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, it is easy to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Ultra-cheap-router-lift/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;modify&lt;/a&gt; some plunge routers to function as router lifts, by drilling an extra hole in the base and replacing the depth adjustment rod.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your router isn't very amenable to the above modification, some homemade router lifts are designed specifically to work with a plunge base, &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/projects/78890&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;with&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&amp;amp;v=culRU9SKAdg#t=170&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;without&lt;/a&gt; drilling an extra hole. The general idea is that you create a screw-driven mechanism to compress the plunge router's springs, rather than sloppily muscling them to the right height yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other commercial and homemade router lifts, such as the JessEm Mast-R-Lift that grfrazee referenced, or Steve Ramsey's &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QfjeS5jolBs&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;homemade router lift&lt;/a&gt; based on plans in Shop Notes #121, allow you to install a router motor directly into the lift. This typically requires a router with a removable/swappable base. Many router lift designs will not work with a plunge router that has an integral, non-removable motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Commercially-available accessories for plunge routers such as the DeWalt 625&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I mentioned earlier, if your plunge router has an integral, non-removable motor, it is not compatible with most commercially-available router lifts. Here are some commercially-available alternatives/aftermarket mod kits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Veritas Router Bit Jack&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kni05.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kni05.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Veritas Router Bit Jack&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9335I.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9335I.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Vertias Router Bit Jack--with foot pedal&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.veritastools.com/products/Page.aspx?p=202&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Router Raizer&lt;/strong&gt; (similar to previously-linked DIY replacement of adjustment screw)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zGTvJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zGTvJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Router Raizer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.infinitytools.com/Router-Raizer-Precision-Depth-Adjustment/productinfo/RRZ-001/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-08-17T22:37:40.307" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T22:37:40.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2198" CreationDate="2015-08-10T18:32:30.513" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately it does take quite a bit of solvent to properly clean all spray equipment. If you think of the quantity of water that would typically be run through after spraying latex it makes sense that a similar quantity would be needed of whatever other solvent is required for another paint type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This 'wasted' solvent is one of the under-advertised costs of spraying generally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the solvent used for cleaning doesn't have to go to waste however. If you're spraying paints in particular, the dirtied solvent should be retained, and after some days or longer most or all of the pigment will have settled out of suspension into a dirty layer at the bottom of the jar:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QLsYr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QLsYr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Settled pigment&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The apparently clean spirit on top can be decanted to a fresh container. This can sometimes be done effectively by just pouring it away, but a large syringe or turkey baster may be preferred to do the job more cleanly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spirit layer above the settled gunk may look perfectly clean but there will be some dissolved binder/carrier from the paint in solution so it's slightly contaminated and should never be returned to the original container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The slightly dirty solvent can still be re-used a number of times, but there comes a point when the contamination becomes too great and it should then be safely disposed of (otherwise it will leave a sticky residue behind on anything it is used to clean, as it is in effect very very dilute varnish by this point).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been doing this with Laquer thinner but feel that I'm using too much. It seems to take almost a small quart to clean my machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I approach oil based differently, and how do you do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well lacquer thinner would be overkill for oil-based paints normally, mineral spirits (UK, white spirit) or turpentine would be the solvent of choice for any and all paints of this type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people do use lacquer thinner as a final flushing rinse after cleaning the equipment with spirits or turpentine but generally the only reason you'd &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; to resort to something like lacquer thinner or acetone is to clean equipment where the oil-based material has had a chance to fully dry, whereupon it will have become insoluble in spirits or turps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T18:32:30.513" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2196" CreationDate="2015-08-10T23:58:16.440" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have said, yes it will work, but but...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) It's more common to mount a fixed-depth base in the table, and switch the router motor between that and a plunge base for other work. Fixed bases are relatively cheap, which makes dedicating one to this purpose a good choice, and many routers are available as kits with one base of each type precisely for that reason. And it's a lot easier to move a motor unit from base to base than to attach and detach the base from the table or plate every time you switch modes of operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) The advantages of a plunge base mostly don't apply when using a router table. The use of a table plate as a baseplate defeats many of the advantages of working handheld&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Commercial router lifts generally don't use the manufacturer's base at all; they act as another base and you mount the motor directly in them. Homebrew lifts may do that or may use a base, but generally if they use a base it will be the fixed base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T23:58:16.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2202" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2203" CreationDate="2015-08-11T04:13:21.317" Score="4" ViewCount="2168" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was planning on doing &lt;a href=&quot;http://creativelittledaisy.typepad.com/creative_little_daisy/2011/12/palletless-pallet-wall-how-to.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this project&lt;/a&gt; exactly as the blog author stated she did it. The project is a paneled wall that looks like the following image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ql2P0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ql2P0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like Lowe's stopped carrying the EverTrue panel product used by the blog author and I can't find it anywhere.  Does anyone know a similar product that would take stain like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1016" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-08-11T16:22:42.330" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T16:25:18.137" Title="Tongue and Groove Wall Paneling" Tags="|staining|panel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2202" CreationDate="2015-08-11T08:10:53.267" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell this is standard pine/softwood V-groove, tongue-and-groove &lt;em&gt;flooring&lt;/em&gt;. This or something quite similar should be widely available where flooring material is sold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;exactly as the blog author stated she did it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you find your suitable equivalent product I would suggest a few minor deviations from the process described. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is to do with stability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally you want to let wood get used to the conditions in which it will be installed prior to use, a process called acclimation, and professional floor crews will try to have the flooring material delivered to the installation site a couple of weeks or longer prior to laying the floor. I would suggest that after you bring the product into the house you open up the ends of the packaging (to allow air easier access to the wood) and then wait at minimum five or six days before you use it, but a fortnight or longer won't hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second is to do with the staining. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The material is pine or another similar softwood and they are notorious for not staining evenly, giving a blotchy/uneven appearance if the stain is applied directly to them without preparation. This blotching is clearly visible in all the post-stain photos at the link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way to solve this problem is to partially seal the wood, a process that used to be called sizing. Commonly these days this is accomplished with a commercial product called &quot;pre-stain conditioner&quot;, but I don't recommend you buy one of these. Instead, use diluted varnish or shellac, which does the job as well or better than the commercial product and for a fraction of the cost. In addition to reducing or eliminating blotching, sizing the wood will also even out how the pine takes the stain so that there isn't such a characteristic 'stripy' end result:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F0q3U.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F0q3U.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sized/unsized stain result 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lIcBn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lIcBn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sized/unsized stain result 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source for the second pic &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.familyhandyman.com/woodworking/staining-wood/how-to-stain-wood-evenly-without-getting-blotches-and-dark-spots/view-all&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; on The Family Handyman site, with much more useful detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T08:10:53.267" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2196" CreationDate="2015-08-11T12:10:39.923" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Plunge router in router table?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is definitively possible (and safe).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should make sure your router has enough power, though. A router of the &quot;1000W class&quot; is not very suitable, although it is of course still &lt;em&gt;possible&lt;/em&gt; to use it in a router table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, first of all, it will be a bit weak, and on top of that the smaller models have a smaller routing stroke. You will, depending on the construction, lose anywhere from 3mm to 10mm because you have to subtract the plate's thickness. So, with a little router that maybe only has 45-50mm stroke total, you may end up with something that soon reaches its physical limits.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Using a &quot;middle class&quot; router (1400W) which usually have 65-70mm stroke works fine, and of course a 2200W router will rock (they tend to have another 20-30mm of routing stroke extra).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least three DIY manufacturers that I know and two German professional-grade manufacturers (Festool and Maffel) build router tables exclusively with plunge routers. That demonstrates that it's not just &lt;em&gt;possible&lt;/em&gt;, but actually someting that works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can of course build one yourself at a fraction of the cost. Basically what you need is a plate (resin coated multiplex is fine) with a hole, and four legs. And well, a vertical stop that locks in a t-ridge, with a piece of plexiglass on top for safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a standard $25 scissor car lifter (as shown &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/ag6v67sE8jA?t=63&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) provides a very easy way of adjusting depth. You can either fix the router in the plate with a few screws, or you can plug two fitting steel rods that are fixed in the table into the holes where the parallel guide is normally mounted (the holes are made for that purpose, so no worries there).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much more sophisticated builds are possible, of course... I'll leave that for homework.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Am I doing something wrong&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds at least unusual that a router should be so stubborn. I almost always operate with two hands on the handles to be on the safe side (if both hands are on the handles, no hand can be somewhere else, this helps keeping your fingers, also fixing the clamp once you've plunged in takes the left hand). But &lt;em&gt;in principle&lt;/em&gt;, I could &lt;em&gt;easily&lt;/em&gt;, without effort, handle my router with one hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the obvious (forgot to open the screw?), I can only think of needing some cleaning and oil as probable causes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When opening the clamp (the one that holds the router bit), always be sure to pay attention that you don't hit the steel rods that the router slides on with your wrench. Also, don't close the screw clamp much harder than necessary. It needs to hold firm, but you aren't trying to smith the rod into a different form.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although they're stainless steel, I could imagine that if one is negligent and keeps squeezing and hammering against them them with the wrench for years, it's possible to make bumps and scratches that impair a smooth slide. But still, making dents into steel should take some continuous abuse, so I don't think that's very likely.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Either way, you'll see if they are nice and smooth after cleaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="135" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T12:10:39.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2202" CreationDate="2015-08-11T15:44:56.457" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know your total woodworking skill and toolset, so I might be taking a bit of a leap with this Answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wall paneling you link to is EverTrue tongue-and-groove paneling.  This has a generic profile, a sample of which I've pasted below (source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vermontlumber.com/images/V-joint-380.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Vermont Lumber&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SzQHg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SzQHg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is actually quite simple to make yourself out of regular pine boards, if you have the right tools and skillset (not to mention the patience to do this for a couple hundred linear feet of board).  I will list two options below for your consideration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Table Saw Method&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a table saw, one would stand the board on edge to trim out the groove (on the left side of the image above).  Then, one would lay the plank flat and run it though the blade (in a couple of passes) to create the tongue on the right side.  Then, tilting the blade of the table saw, one trims off the chamfers on both sides of the board to match the profile (or not, depending on your personal preference).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Hand Plane Method&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next method assumes that you have, or have access to, a set of wooden match planes (also known as tongue-and-groove planes)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x3t3Z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x3t3Z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/attachments/f11/43380d1334936959-best-plane-cutting-tongue-groove-tgplanes.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;WoodworkingTalk.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or a plane similar to a Stanley #48 or #49.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DTzRY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DTzRY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.patented-antiques.com/images/10-writ/2010Tools/XX-c-tools-on/c-miscplanes/Stanley/4849/48-49.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Patented-Antiques.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could even make use of a plow plane for this task, though it would be a bit trickier than the above two planes. You would use these to make the tongue and groove in the board, then create the chamfer using a block plane or a rabbet plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For finishing, @Graphus's answer above covers everything that I could possibly discuss, so I'll direct you there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-08-11T16:25:18.137" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T16:25:18.137" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2206" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2208" CreationDate="2015-08-11T20:38:30.797" Score="14" ViewCount="29981" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have boards that are ~ 2&quot; thick, ~15&quot; wide, and x feet long.  I would like to divide these boards in half.  I do not have the funds to buy a large bandsaw or other power tools. I'm looking to trim the thickness and wind up with two boards around half the thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to divide these boards evenly (and close to level)?  What tools to I need to buy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="301" LastEditorUserId="301" LastEditDate="2015-08-11T21:41:49.510" LastActivityDate="2021-08-18T14:38:30.977" Title="Creating additional boards from thick lumber" Tags="|technique|tools|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2206" CreationDate="2015-08-11T20:55:26.617" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cutting a board along its thickness--in this case, cutting a 2&quot; thick board in half to produce two ~1&quot; thick boards--is called resawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hand Tools Only&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With practice, you can resaw the boards in half with a handsaw or frame saw or &lt;em&gt;traditional&lt;/em&gt; bow saw (not to be confused with a modern bowsaw, which is better suited for pruning trees and cutting small logs). If using a frame saw or traditional bow saw, the wider the blade from teeth to back, the easier it will be to make a straight cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Power Tools/Power+Hand Tools&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to resaw the board with inexpensive power tools, you'll need to get more creative. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One method is to first rip the boards to narrower widths to bring them down to the capaciy of your preferred resaw tool. (Ideally you'll want to rip the boards using a tool and blade that produce a clean, thin kerf so you can easily match up the grain to hide the cut later.) Inexpensive bandsaws and 10&quot; table saws commonly have a resaw capacity of about 6 inches or less (the table saw will require several passes across opposite edges), so in your case you could rip the 15&quot; wide board into three roughly 5&quot; wide boards. After that, you can resaw those individually on a table saw and/or bandsaw, and glue the ~1&quot;x6&quot; pieces back together.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Another method is to cut a kerf along each edge with the table saw, then use a handsaw to cut out whatever was left behind by the table saw, and plane the boards flat after resawing. This is easier than just using a handsaw since you can use the table saw kerf as a guide for your handsaw, but unfortunately it also results in more waste and thinner boards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-08-13T17:49:54.470" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T17:49:54.470" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2206" CreationDate="2015-08-12T10:00:11.417" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is the best way to divide these boards evenly (and close to level)? What tools to I need to buy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you requested I'll concentrate on a handtools-only approach but fair warning, even on smaller boards this can be a lot of work and difficult to do accurately. On boards 15&quot; wide it will also pose a great challenge physically — hard work, and for some hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Traditional method&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The splitting of an existing board you're looking to do here is referred to as &lt;em&gt;re-sawing&lt;/em&gt;, because you're sawing again what was previously sawed in a mill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The traditional way this would be done, the method that would be recommended in older woodworking books, would be fairly simple in outline: you begin simply by marking or gauging your cut line across the middle of both long edges and the board ends, then, holding the work in a vice, begin sawing using the right saw (a &lt;strong&gt;rip saw&lt;/strong&gt;, which is made specifically for sawing along the grain). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o7xVl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o7xVl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Traditional ripsaw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the minimum toolkit for this would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ruler and pencil, or marking gauge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;panel saw, sharpened for ripping&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a vice to hold the workpiece &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;one or more small wooden wedges to keep the kerf open&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;one or two hand planes to flatten the sawn surface&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;scraper and/or sandpaper to smooth the board faces&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: the vice must be attached to something fairly stout and heavy, ideally immovable, in order that energy is not wasted in moving the table as you saw. This is one of the reasons for the great heft of traditional woodworking benches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above description of the method makes this sound fairly easy and straightforward but in practice it's anything but, especially on boards of significant width and/or length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Modern method&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a significant improvement to the above possible but unfortunately it requires quite a bit more work or your behalf as you need to build the #1 item on the tool list, the &lt;strong&gt;kerfing plane&lt;/strong&gt;. Read more about that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/the-kerfing-plane-part-one.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; on the Unplugged Woodshop site, with video to go along with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The job of the kerfing plane here is create a starting groove along all four edges of your boards. Saws naturally want to track in existing grooves (taking the path of least resistance) so this makes it much easier to saw straight and true through the length of a board. It's not a 100% fix, but it's a big help so if you're re-sawing a lot by hand one of these is worth making.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the toolkit would now be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;kerfing plane &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;multi-purpose panel saw (see note below)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a vice to hold the workpiece &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;one or more small wooden wedges to keep the kerf open&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;one or two hand planes to flatten the sawn surface&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;scraper and/or sandpaper to smooth the board faces&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: these days it can be very difficult to find a good ripsaw, and expensive when you do find one. As a result many woodworkers actually buy multi-purpose panel saws with different tooth geometry to the traditional Western saws which were for ripping OR crosscutting. One example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iK20R.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iK20R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Modern tooth geometry, panel saw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a disadvantage as they neither rip nor cross-cut as well as dedicated saws for these jobs, however they have advantages too. Their teeth are &quot;impulse hardened&quot; or induction hardened making them &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; harder than those on traditional saws, so blunt far less quickly even in hard and tough woods, but most especially when cutting manmade boards such as plywood and MDF. And the modern tooth geometry means they do some cutting on the pull stroke (as well as the main cutting done on the push stroke). They're also significantly cheaper, perhaps 1/5 the price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Japanese saws&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of Western woodworkers today use Asian-style saws (in practice nearly all Japanese) for some or all of their cutting. These saws can be very effective, tracking well and cutting very cleanly and swiftly because of the tooth geometry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I don't think you should consider one because of the maximum length of cut. Many of these saws feature blades of 250-300mm, one foot or less, and as soon as you saw at an angle the length of the cut becomes significantly longer than your starting length of 15&quot;. So in order to do your cuts you'd need to saw the entire length of the board &lt;em&gt;twice&lt;/em&gt; (working in from each long edge), in essence nearly doubling the work!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T10:00:11.417" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2209" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2210" CreationDate="2015-08-12T12:47:09.807" Score="15" ViewCount="10159" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm putting threaded inserts into a MDF base.  When I start to screw the insert in, the thread digs in at an angle and pulls the entire insert in at that angle.  I thought it would straighten out when it got further down the hole, but it still managed to go in kattywompus.  Now, the knob and bolt look like some tower in Pisa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What tricks can I use to ensure a threaded insert goes in straight?  Is this just a problem because I'm using MDF instead of hardwood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="956" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T13:57:10.343" Title="How can I ensure my threaded inserts go in straight?" Tags="|technique|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2209" CreationDate="2015-08-12T12:58:16.720" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are specialised drivers for these which might help -- or you could make your own by using a bolt with one or two &quot;jam nuts&quot; to keep the insert from gravelling up the threads. Use a long enough bolt to make any tilt more visible, hold it straight, drive the insert, and back the bolt out of the insert (backing off the jam nuts if necessary).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Promised illustration: I didn't have an insert handy, so you'll just have to imagine that the dark cap nut is the insert. Assemble like so, preferably with a longer bolt&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HdviRm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bolt with jam nut and mock threaded insert&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then tighten the nut down firmly against the insert. This will force the nut to press up against the bolt's threads while pressing the insert down; that outward pressure should produce enough friction to lock both against rotating on the bolt. Now drive this assembly into the wood as if it were a screw, using the bolt as both guide and lever to make sure it goes in straight. Once the insert has been set, you should be able to hold the bolt in place while loosening the &quot;jam nut&quot;, releasing the bolt and nut from the insert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're driving several, a slightly more elegant version would be to use two nuts, locked against each other, at the right point for a washer (optional but can't hurt)and the insert to slip on below them. This is driven the same way, but you should then be able to back the bolt and locked jamnuts out of the insert as a unit without having to do anything special to the nuts; just leave them locked. Obviously that means your inserting tool is immediately ready to be loaded with another insert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Feel free to use a bolt with another head design, whatever you've got a good driver for -- this is just what came to hand first.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I said, there are commercially made drivers which operate on the same principle: thread the insert on, drive, back the threads out. If you're doing a lot of these that might be an investment worth considering. But for just a few, this does the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Late Addition:&lt;/strong&gt; Some inserts are designed to be driven with a hex key, which has many of the same advantages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2015-11-11T13:57:10.343" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T13:57:10.343" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2211" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2214" CreationDate="2015-08-12T14:34:10.837" Score="14" ViewCount="73013" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't find honing oil locally anymore.  My (chisel) sharpening is pretty low-end - I don't even know what kind of stone I have.  (I got it at Lowes, long ago.  It has 2 faces, one pink, one dark-ish gray.)  Mostly, I just need something to keep the stone from loading up.  I know I can order oil online; but, I never get around to it.   And besides, the shipping.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I'm thinking to try to roll my own.  Hence, the question.  Things that I've heard can be used: mineral oil, vegetable oil, 3-in-1 oil, ATF, kerosene.  I'd probably just do one of the kerosene-mineral oil mixes, except my wife can't stand the smell of kerosene.  (Go figure.)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would appreciate any thoughts on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="484" LastActivityDate="2021-04-13T12:34:12.883" Title="DIY honing oil?" Tags="|sharpening|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2209" CreationDate="2015-08-12T14:50:20.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;MDF is soft enough that it won't stop cross threading on it's own.  That is really what you did.  with metal threads on both sides you notice because it becomes much harder to turn in the screw/bolt.  So getting it to go in straight you really need to make sure you line it up correctly from the start.  Once it is stared correctly it should stay in the grooves and stay straight.  Though the inserts keshlam suggests would be a good idea as it will improve the reuse of the threads for multiple inserting and removing of the bolts and have a better hold as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T14:50:20.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2211" CreationDate="2015-08-12T16:09:31.350" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000I1AVDW&quot;&gt;Norton Sharpening Stone Oil&lt;/a&gt; for my oilstones.  If you take a look at the product description, they say it's 100% food-safe mineral oil.  It seems a little less viscous than the mineral oil I use for cutting boards, which makes sense since they claim to refine it a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, you can use most oils for honing.  I'd avoid anything that is too thick or gummy to keep from clogging your tools and stones.  In the past I've used pretty much everything on your list and they've all worked fine.  The main point of the honing fluid is to clear the swarf (bits of metal and stone) from the surface, freeing fresh abrasive underneath.  Anything that will suspend/wash away the swarf will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you plan on using your stones for anything that will contact food, I would stick with mineral oil or vegetable oil.  However, since you've indicated you've had them a while, I'd guess they're contaminated at this point with other stuff anyway, so it may be a non-issue at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also worth noting that you can use plain old water on an oilstone, so long as you &lt;em&gt;haven't first used oil on it&lt;/em&gt;.  I have a couple smaller stones and an &lt;a href=&quot;http://lansky.com/index.php/products/dual-grit-sharpener/&quot;&gt;axe puck&lt;/a&gt; that I use for camping that I only use with water, and they work fine.  You will have to keep these above freezing though, otherwise the water entrapped in the stones will crack the stones like a concrete sidewalk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-08-12T16:52:31.200" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T16:52:31.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2211" CreationDate="2015-08-12T17:11:47.147" Score="14" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Things that I've heard can be used: mineral oil, vegetable oil, 3-in-1 oil, ATF, kerosene. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes these can all be used. ATF should be avoided as it can contain ingredients you don't want on your skin, and there are many reliably safe alternatives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mineral oils&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Commercial honing oils are nine times out of ten just mineral oil (UK: paraffin oil or liquid paraffin), sometimes merely with a colourant added so that it's not quite so obvious that it's only mineral oil. All simple lubricating oils are based on a form of mineral oil (including 3-In-One), and so is baby oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't mind the sickly-sweet smell of baby oil that's a perfectly good alternative and many woodworkers use it. Video &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=52pOLpz6BJs&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; from Graham Haydon showing him using baby oil on his India stone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can of course avoid the smell and just use straight mineral oil, but mineral oil alone can be a little heavy on some stones. As a rough guide the finer the stone the lighter the oil you want to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In place of kerosene you can use mineral spirits (UK: white spirit), which actually is a very very thin oil. On very fine, dense oilstones spirit works surprisingly well by itself, but is a little too light on many coarser stones, and as mentioned straight mineral oil can be a little too heavy. However a blend of the two can be made to hit the exact viscosity mark you're personally fond of or which best suits the stones you're using. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vegetable oils&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A great many vegetable oils can used successfully as honing oil. Most pose no problem at all (see note below on rancidity) but you do have to be careful not to accidentally choose a drying or semi-drying oil — which includes tung oil, flaxseed oil, walnut oil, poppy oil, safflower and some forms of sunflower oil. These can start to 'dry' and begin to gel, clogging the stone and making it nearly useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Older books often warn of the danger of using linseed oil (a drying oil) on your honing stones for this very reason. Note that flaxseed oil is linseed oil by another name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Safe oils to use: corn oil, soya oil, most forms of rapeseed oil (canola) and peanut oil. You can also use almond oil, macadamia nut oil and olive oil, but given their higher price they're hardly a practical consideration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: there's no need to worry about vegetable oil going rancid unless you're in the habit of completely flooding the stone and not wiping it down afterwards. Even at that the only real issue is a slightly stale or &quot;off&quot; smell, there's no other negative effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2015-08-14T07:03:06.477" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T07:03:06.477" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2209" CreationDate="2015-08-12T17:27:34.693" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try using a bit of threaded rod and a drill press to keep the insert straight. &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/Topapilot/blog/4264&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1023" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T17:27:34.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2209" CreationDate="2015-08-12T20:54:58.677" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Speaking from a metal working background, we always used a drill press (not running, of course) with the tap drill inside the insert to keep them straight and to ensure proper starting/seating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1027" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T20:54:58.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2211" CreationDate="2015-08-12T21:27:55.107" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used an oil stone with proper honing oil religiously, until I tried a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0000DD2C9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;water stone&lt;/a&gt;. The water stone's been great; no more need for oil/oil-alternatives! Just a pre-sharpening soak and regular rinsing throughout works wonders!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Granted, this is not an answer to the question &lt;em&gt;diy honing oil?&lt;/em&gt;, but if your question/preference can be generalized to &lt;em&gt;how to avoid buying oil for sharpening?&lt;/em&gt; this is my two cents. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1028" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T21:27:55.107" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2209" CreationDate="2015-08-12T21:29:38.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a bush-hack for getting a hole straight might work for your need, depending on how big your insert is and how you drive it in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use an old CD.  Put it over the hole, silver-side up, and drive the insert through the hole in the middle of the CD.  Eyeball the reflection of your driving tool to keep it perpendicular to the CD which is parallel to the surface.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reflection should be in-line with the tool - your eyecrometer can detect this well enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The proper tool is the best answer, but this will do in a pinch or for a one-off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1029" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T21:29:38.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2209" CreationDate="2015-08-13T17:38:43.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you're trying to install thread-in inserts in the face of a piece of MDF, which is fine but not ideal. If you're installing the threaded inserts into the edge of MDF, you should strongly consider knock-down hardware instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll cover some alternatives later, but first let's talk about how to properly install thread-in threaded inserts. If you have a tap, consider tapping the threads before installing any thread-in inserts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thread-in threaded inserts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, one end may have notches cut into it, as though you're supposed to use a slotted/flat-head screwdriver to drive it. If the threads extend all the way to the end, and the notches cut through the threads, then forget intuition; that's not how you're supposed to drive the threaded insert. The notched end is to help with tapping the threads, and should be the first part of the threaded insert that enters the material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that some threaded inserts do have a slotted drive on the end but the threads do not extend all the way to the end. These threaded inserts are not self-tapping, and you'll have better luck if you tap the holes before installing them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of using a screwdriver to drive the threaded insert, get a bolt with the same threads as the inside of the threaded insert, screw two nuts onto it, and jam the nuts tight against each other. Then screw the threaded insert onto the end of the bolt, so the notched end is facing away from the nuts. If you have a drill press, cut the head off the bolt and install the bolt in the drill press chuck, then slowly screw the insert into the material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yk0jH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yk0jH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;T-nut&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pound-in threaded inserts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of using the thread-in type, you can also use pound-in threaded inserts. The outer &quot;threads&quot; on these look more like barbs than a continuous thread that spirals around the outside. For this type of insert, you simply drill the hole to the size of the insert to fully engage the teeth or, if force will be applied to pull the insert out of the MDF, you can drill the hole just large enough so the barbs barely engage, but secure the insert with epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hex-head threaded inserts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also hex-head inserts, and most that I've seen are self-tapping. They have threads around the entire body except that they have notches down the entire length of the threads instead of only at the end. The threads look like a cross between the threads and barbs. I haven't used these in MDF but I think it would work better to drill a hole that barely engages the threads, and possibly use epoxy along with screwing or hammering them in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;T-nut or knock-down hardware as an alternative&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For MDF, you should ideally use a T-nut or some other type of knock-down hardware instead (depending on your application), especially if you're installing the threaded inserts into the edge of the MDF instead of the face. (The edge of MDF is more prone to splitting.) But if you aren't creating a through hole or if the appearance on the back side of your material is important, you can still use one of two types of threaded inserts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-08-13T17:46:13.273" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T17:46:13.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2221" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-14T07:14:22.437" Score="6" ViewCount="644" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to build a wooden box project for my Raspberry PI, plus speakers.  The layout / configuration that I'm thinking of is a three box system; one for the Raspberry PI (plus joystick, buttons, power supply, connectors etc) and the other 2 for the speakers.  I would like the system to have two modes; packed and unpacked.  Thus packed would look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    +----------+---------------+----------+&#xA;   /          /               /          /|&#xA;  /          /               /          / |&#xA; /          /               /          /  |&#xA;+----------+---------------+----------+   |&#xA;|          |               |          |   |&#xA;| Left     | Controller    | Right    |   +&#xA;| Speaker  |               | Speaker  |  / &#xA;|          |               |          | /  &#xA;|          |               |          |/   &#xA;+----------+---------------+----------+&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then open up to unpacked like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    +----------+    +---------------+    +----------+&#xA;   /          /|   /               /|   /          /|&#xA;  /          / |  /               / |  /          / |&#xA; /          /  | /               /  | /          /  |&#xA;+----------+   |+---------------+   |+----------+   |&#xA;|          |   ||               |   ||          |   |&#xA;| Left     |   +| Controller    |   +| Right    |   +&#xA;| Speaker  |  / |               |  / | Speaker  |  / &#xA;|          | /  |               | /  |          | /  &#xA;|          |/   |               |/   |          |/   &#xA;+----------+    +---------------+    +----------+&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the question; What cool / weird mechanism for moving the boxes apart can you suggest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I would like the whole mechanism made from wood&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The boxes are about 20x20cm or 30x30cm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The mechanism can't move across the back and top of the Controller box (all the plugs etc are there)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The box should move about 10cm apart, to fit a (flat) hand between the speaker- and controller box (on each side)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One can go as far as having the speakers swing from underneath to the unpack position, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T14:45:26.173" Title="Wooden box expanding mechanism" Tags="|boxes|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2221" CreationDate="2015-08-14T08:13:12.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What about hidden mechanism? &#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Neodymium magnets inserted into holes&lt;/strong&gt; from inner-side of each &quot;connect&quot; planes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Number and size of magnets you have to explain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; Control  Speaker&#xA;+~~~~~~~++~~~~~~~+&#xA;|       ||       |&#xA;+-+----+||+----+-+&#xA;| |oooo||||oooo| |&#xA;| |oooo||||oooo| |&#xA;+-+----+||+----+-+&#xA;|       ||       |&#xA;+~~~~~~~++~~~~~~~+&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T08:13:12.700" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2221" CreationDate="2015-08-14T12:28:15.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What cool / weird mechanism for moving the boxes apart can you suggest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well I can't speak to cool or weird but the first two things I thought of were an X mechanism similar to that used in some collapsible laundry baskets:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VH7k3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VH7k3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;X mechanism&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dezeen.com/2013/07/30/set-expanding-shelving-by-stephanie-hornig/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these shelves&lt;/a&gt;. With the X made from thin hardwood stock and oriented flat under the boxes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second was just to have one or more long 'tenons' or tongues that would be fixed to the underside of the middle box and slide in shallow grooves/dados on the outer boxes. Either one very wide tongue in the centre, or two narrower ones close to the front and back edges (this is likely better able to resist twisting or misalignment).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would be basically an all-wood version of an underslung slide mechanism such as this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hDgt3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hDgt3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Under-mounted drawer slide&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T12:28:15.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2221" CreationDate="2015-08-14T13:05:16.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would go with something like a swing arm.  Like ones used for TV's &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kI4z1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kI4z1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;TV Swing Arm&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be able to find hardware the right size for your speakers or you could make one.  All you really need would on bar with a hinge on either end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you could have a one latch on each side to hold the speakers closed to the controller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2015-08-14T14:45:26.173" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T14:45:26.173" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2171" CreationDate="2015-08-14T14:23:51.947" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find that the mositure in greewood spurs rust really quickly.  I use jojoba oil &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/tool-care/tool-care-jojoba-oil-?node=4117&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/tool-care/tool-care-jojoba-oil-?node=4117&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;on my tools at the end of each day if they have touched green wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="686" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T14:23:51.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2141" CreationDate="2015-08-15T18:36:34.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aside from stabilizing wood through chemical means- petrifier, glues, epoxy, etc. or mechanical means- butterflies, other wood or metal fasteners...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I ponder wood stabilization my mind goes to, and stays at, moisture content (mc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stable wood, to me, means ensuring there is as little difference as possible in the percentage of moisture between the surface, core, and everywhere in between. The overall amount of water isn't as important as the consistency of the water throughout. All seasonal movement is directly related to the amount of moisture in a board AND the varying degrees of difference within.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the surface mc and the core mc differs by more than just a little, this is called &quot;case hardening&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have ever ripped a board and had it pinch the blade (scary,right?) or have the two pieces coming out like bananas in opposing curves (sometimes twisting so badly the piece becomes firewood)- you have experienced case hardening. Splitting the board relieves some of the unequal tensions between the cells of the unevenly dry board (the drier cells are tighter and pulling together and the wetter ones larger and pushing). Then a new type of tension is created within each of the new boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drying kilns combat case hardening by injecting steam into the kiln at the end of the drying process to equalize the surface mc and the core mc as much as possible. Impossible as it is to make 100% even mc across any board, this gets it close to the consistency of a multi-year air dry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why, even when using equalized wood, you must mill your parts oversize- then work them back to square and true to their final size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard that some people will take a board they are about to mill down to final size and drop/throw on the floor in an effort to &quot;pre-relieve&quot; the board of some internal tensions... maybe works?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a cabinet maker I am less concerned with whether my material has a total  mc of 8% or 13%, than how much the content varies within each rough board prior to milling into smaller final sizes. Also, how much the mc varies board to board within the unit of boards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1042" LastActivityDate="2015-08-15T18:36:34.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1976" CreationDate="2015-08-16T22:39:45.373" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has no one else of thought of using knotting solution? It's an oil based coating for bare wood that you paint on the knots. This stops the bleed through to the paint. My house is full of white painted pine. Works a charm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1045" LastActivityDate="2015-08-16T22:39:45.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1976" CreationDate="2015-08-17T07:00:26.667" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My two cents...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, when working with shellac, you must use a &quot;fresh&quot; batch. Nearly all shellac is only viable for about a year after flakes have been mixed with alcohol. Premixed brands claim a three year shelf life, but in my opinion that is a stretch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shellac should be all that is needed to block nearly any bleeding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1042" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T07:00:26.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1976" CreationDate="2015-08-17T11:12:57.037" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;More work and possibly not feasible but would it solve the problem if one drills out the knots and replaces with a dowel? Thinking of grain direction too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T11:12:57.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2231" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2234" CreationDate="2015-08-17T15:21:36.287" Score="8" ViewCount="677" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently discovered the existence of a thing called a router lift, in answers to &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2196/is-a-plunge-router-suitable-for-router-table-work&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;.  I'm intrigued and would love to get one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bit of internet research later, and I see there is quite a bit of variety, not only in price, but in basic feature sets.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming I would like to purchase (rather than construct) a lift, what features seem to be important to you?  For instance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I need a &quot;quick change&quot; ring to facilitate bit changes?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I need to be able to lock the lift to a particular height?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does a flex-shaft controller (that I can attach to the side of the router) work better/worse than a screw controller (that means I have another hole through my insert plate?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Others?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is important to answering the question, I have a DeWalt 625 plunge router (as long as my frustration with fine-setting bit heights hasn't caused me to throw it through the workshop wall).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My router usage: finger/dovetail joints, chamfers/roundover/edge decorations, picture frames, etc.  I tend to use the smaller bits (i.e. not panel work).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="956" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T03:40:11.650" Title="What features to look for when buying a router lift?" Tags="|router-table|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2231" CreationDate="2015-08-17T20:55:55.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My good router came with a fixed base designed to operate as a basic lift, after drilling additional holes in the plate. It does have some nice features in that mode:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the motor is lifted all the way, the shaft stop automatically engages as the collet comes above the table surface, permitting bit changes without having to reach underneath. There's a stop which keeps this from happening accidentally that stop is also released from above the table (thru another hole). Above-the-plate bit changes are much more convenient. If your router doesn't have that built-in, there are extended collets/chucks which can be added on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The height lock clamp can also be operated from above the table (third control hole). You do want a height lock. Any mechanical system is subject to hysteresis and slippage, but the simpler the system the less it's likely to drift over time. A clamp's simpler than screw threads and will stay put when vibration might cause the lift crank mechanism to drift. This may not matter for two boards but probably does for 20...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something I don't like is that, since this base has only a single threaded rod at one side as its height control/lift, it doesn't lift as smoothly as I'd like, making micro-adjustments somewhat annoying. Lifts with multiple threads, or the poor-man's lift of a plate on a threaded rod that simply pushes the router up along its centerline,, would work more smoothly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flex shaft drive does stay out of the way of any workpiece you may want on the table to compare bit height to, but so far the through-holes approach sorta works. I do wish they'd given me a crank handle rather than a knob, but Oh Well; I'm really never in that much rush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T20:55:55.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2231" CreationDate="2015-08-17T21:59:25.043" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, your &lt;em&gt;DeWalt 625 will not work with most router lifts&lt;/em&gt; on the market. Most lifts are designed to work with a removable motor from a fixed-base router, and you'll need to look into a &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/2199/49&quot;&gt;different solution&lt;/a&gt; such as one of those that I suggested in my answer to other router question that you referenced. The DeWalt 625 is a plunge router with an integral, non-removable motor. But for the sake of argument and the benefit of others, let's pretend you also have another router which &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; compatible with most lifts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strictly speaking, the only feature most people &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; from a router lift is the ability to easily raise and lower the router by very small increments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's address a few of your questions about specific features:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do I need a &quot;quick change&quot; ring to facilitate bit changes?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're referring to the red rings in the illustration below, these are important not just for changing bits, but to use different-diameter bits. You want to give your workpiece as much support as possible as it passes by the bit, so you should use the smallest insert ring that gives your bit adequate clearance through its entire height range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many router lifts include a router table insert plate (the gray rectangular flat piece) with insert rings, but some do not. You can also buy router plates with or without the rings, or you can make your own. For this reason, I consider this part not so much a part of the router lift, but an accessory that you can add separately. That said, the mounting plates included with some of the more expensive router lifts do have additional features such as precision markings or easier adjustments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tnLs2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tnLs2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Router lift with plate&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodpeck.com/prlv2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do I need to be able to lock the lift to a particular height?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could be wrong but I would suspect that this feature is included on most commercially-available lifts. This is good to have in order to guarantee that your router won't drift up or down with vibration and use, but it depends on what's more important to you and whether your specific lift has a tendency to travel out of adjustment with use. Is it more important to be able to change settings quickly, or to keep the same setting for a long time? Whether or not you use the height lock may also depend on the job. If you're producing mating parts with tight tolerances, you may want to lock the router height. But if you're just cutting an ogee or roundover as a cosmetic detail, and your lift more or less doesn't go out of adjustment on its own, you're probably fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just use a Bosch fixed router base as my lift and haven't had a problem. I would suspect most screw-driven lifts hold their settings pretty well, but if you find a router lift that has a lot of slop in its adjustment mechanism, you'll probably want to lock the height once you've adjusted it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does a flex-shaft controller (that I can attach to the side of the router) work better/worse than a screw controller (that means I have another hole through my insert plate?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with many tool features, this is largely a convenience since you can have a &quot;remote&quot; adjustment crank or knob on the side or your router table. You don't have to potentially move your workpiece out of the way to make an adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Others?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A touchscreen- or foot-controlled &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eaglelakewoodworking.com/post/The-PowerLift-has-Arrived.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;powered router lift&lt;/a&gt;/automatic height adjustment would be great in many situations, for example, when making many successively deeper passes (which is pretty much every time you use your router, right?).  But if it causes you to speed up too much, you might stop thinking about safety and you could potentially raise the bit directly into your hand (for example, if cutting out a circle and raising the bit a little on each pass).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quick bit changes. Some router lifts have ways to speed up bit changes and/or make them less awkward. If you're buying a router lift instead of building one, you might use this feature as a tiebreaker when deciding between two lifts, but there are other accessories you can buy to speed up/simplify bit changes, which are not tied to a specific router lift. I certainly wouldn't spend any extra money on the lift for this feature, but here are a couple ways lifts implement quick bit changes:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easily-removable base plate: many router tables are designed so you can quickly and easily lift the insert plate and router out of the table to more easily change bits. As I mentioned earlier, some router lifts include the insert plate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maximum height: this may be what you were really getting at with your question about the quick change rings, but some router lifts can raise the collet and shaft above the table, so you don't have to pull the entire weight of the router plate, lift, and router out of the table. This can be handy, but you could also add a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.infinitytools.com/Router-Bit-Collet-Extension/productinfo/115-070/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;collet extension&lt;/a&gt; to achieve the same effect. Or you could add a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.infinitytools.com/Router-Collet-Xtreme-Xtension/productinfo/RXX-001/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;quick-change chuck&lt;/a&gt; for even faster bit changes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T03:40:11.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2235" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-18T02:40:13.747" Score="5" ViewCount="2375" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been collecting old nails from pallets that I have been tearing down and only realized now why I was keeping them. I am going to try and make my own stain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several tutorials online that talk about making an ebonizing or oxidizing stain. Regardless of the name they all involve at a minimum rust and vinegar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part I don't completely understand is why one some tutorials say to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Oxidize-Wood-Stain/&quot;&gt;use regular vinegar&lt;/a&gt; and others &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Steel-Wool-and-Vinegar-Wood-AgingEbonizingWeathe/&quot;&gt;apple cider vinegar&lt;/a&gt; or even balsamic vinegar. This could just be a preference but I want to know the actual difference that using those vinegars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do understand the many variables that exist with this type of experimentation but this particular aspect is not really covered in the tutorials I have seen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-08-18T02:48:42.997" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T09:44:23.783" Title="Choosing a vinegar when making my own oxidizing stain" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2236" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2241" CreationDate="2015-08-18T02:48:00.087" Score="5" ViewCount="3798" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there good general techniques to deal with wood expansion when combining it with a steel frame?  For the sake of argument, say we're building a metal and wood box where the metal comprises the frame of the box, but the wood comprises the panels (and assume that we're not using plywood or some sort of expansion resistant composite.)  How do we attach the wood to the steel in such a way where expansion isn't a problem?  With pure wood, we could cut a slot and float the panel, but I'm not sure what the extension of this to steel is.  Adding a slot to welded square tubing seems difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T13:12:52.080" Title="How to deal with wood expansion when combining with a steel frame?" Tags="|furniture|wood-movement|boxes|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2235" CreationDate="2015-08-18T09:39:21.993" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The part I don't completely understand is why one some tutorials say to use regular vinegar and others apple cider vinegar or even balsamic vinegar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What most guides don't simply spell out in plain English is this process is actually a chemical reaction in which you're making &lt;em&gt;iron acetate&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The iron acetate then reacts with the tannins in the wood, which forms iron tannate, a black metallic salt: hence the very dark colour in some oak (high in tannins) and the slight greying you usually get in softwoods (very low in tannins).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So anyway, the reason to prefer one vinegar over another is simply to do with the acetic acid content. Higher acetic acid level = more iron acetate formed. With a stronger vinegar you get a stronger solution of iron acetate and this give a more pronounced reaction in the wood, and faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Regardless of the name they all involve at a minimum rust and vinegar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In reality you just need iron and vinegar. Rusty metal is no more or less desirable here, as seen by the most common method of forming this 'dye' which uses steel wool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However there is a bonus if you do use rusty nails, as this will do two things simultaneously: it will clean the rust from your nails as well as forming the iron acetate solution :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should add here that if you're specifically looking to do ebonising this alone is not a reliable way to get there. Wood, even oak, is often not quite high enough in tannins to make a good black colour and it can vary even from piece to piece in the same lot of wood, so you could end up with one grey board within an otherwise black piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are various chemical means to achieve a more reliable black, e.g. by introducing tannic acid to the wood, or with sulphuric acid and a heat gun, but the simplest (and safest!) method is just to paint the wood with Indian ink. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2015-08-18T09:44:23.783" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T09:44:23.783" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2238" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2240" CreationDate="2015-08-18T09:57:49.087" Score="11" ViewCount="1060" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was staining a set of pieces of unfinished pine for a dresser (ikea  furniture) on my rooftop. First coat was put on last night around 9pm, and I was planning on doing the second coat this morning and letting dry outside all day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One freak thunderstorm later, I'm rescuing the pieces from the roof at 5am.  Dried them off as well as I could with rags and put them inside on cardboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However several of the large pieces are extremely warped in the cross grain direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7poqz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cross-section view of largest piece.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do to salvage these pieces?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1048" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-08-18T14:49:46.990" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T18:30:09.693" Title="How do I correct extreme crossgrain cupping?" Tags="|staining|warp|pine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2236" CreationDate="2015-08-18T10:23:14.787" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For the sake of argument, say we're building a metal and wood box where the metal comprises the frame of the box, but the wood comprises the panels (and assume that we're not using plywood or some sort of expansion resistant composite.) How do we attach the wood to the steel in such a way where expansion isn't a problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you can provide some means for the wood to move you can't, i.e. it will be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can minimise the issue by using quarter-sawn wood, which expands and contracts minimally across its width (one of the reasons it was so favoured in the past) but with a completely rigid and immovable framework around the wood you're likely to still have problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you build in wetter months when the wood is at its widest when you get to the dry season the panels will shrink and gaps will open up. If you build in drier months the wood won't be able to expand when you get to the wet season and you'll probably eventually get cracks as the wood seeks to relieve the stresses that build up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Adding a slot to welded square tubing seems difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd imagine so! There are still options if you can't make the board float in the frame, as with conventional wooden panel doors. But it involves a compromise in terms of looks as there will be a visible gap during some or all of the year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you do is make each panel from two pieces, and between them is a joint that allows for shrinkage and expansion. There are three basic options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a tongue-and-groove joint &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a sort of half-lap (shiplap)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a floating spline &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iG8AG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iG8AG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Expansion joints&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T10:23:14.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2238" CreationDate="2015-08-18T10:34:17.533" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get this flatter certainly, but you may not be able to get them totally flat or to get them to stay that way permanently — wood that has bowed can show a tendency to want to return to that shape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One method is to wet the cupped side and put the wood out in the sun to dry. A variation of this is to wet both side but have the wet side sit on grass where it'll dry much more slowly. I've tried both (not on anything this extreme!) and I'm not sure there's a clear winner in terms of effectiveness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another method doesn't involve drying outdoors but is a little more involved. You'll need a few clamps and some means to raise the edges of the boards up a little so the centre can bend downwards slightly. You thoroughly saturate the wood, front and back, and then clamp it in stages until you get it slightly beyond flat, i.e. cupped very slightly in the opposite direction to how it is now. Then let the wood dry overnight or longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: you must use scrap blocks under the clamps to help prevent marring the wood, this is soft wood anyway but it'll be even more prone to bruising when wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T10:34:17.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2236" CreationDate="2015-08-18T13:12:52.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;With pure wood, we could cut a slot and float the panel, but I'm not sure what the extension of this to steel is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're on track with the slot, but not quite in the way you're describing here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, you would drill a regular circular hole in the steel corners.  Then, you make a slotted &lt;em&gt;hole&lt;/em&gt; in the wooden panel.  This slot would be perpendicular to the grain orientation of the wood, similar to the image below, but not that long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OeGvG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OeGvG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Slot&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, you would only slot the hole enough to account for the expected expansion and contraction of the panel.  This will vary by species and the total width of the panel.  For &quot;regular&quot; box sizes, I would think that expanding the slot 1/8&quot; to either side would be acceptable.  For example, if you had a 1/4&quot; diameter hole in the steel corner for the fastener, you would make a 1/4&quot; dia. by 1/2&quot; long slot in the panel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you would use a bolt to fasten the panel to the corner and make it snug tight.  I would suggest &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nyloc_nut&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;nylock nuts&lt;/a&gt;, using a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jam_nut&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;jam nut&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/t_lkr_blue/overview/Loctite-Threadlocker-Blue-242.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;thread locker&lt;/a&gt; on a regular bolt to keep the bolts from loosening over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Adding a slot to welded square tubing seems difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I'm not sure if you've decided on what to do for the frame, but I would suggest steel angles instead of tubing.  It will be cheaper, lighter, and easier to connect to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T13:12:52.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2238" CreationDate="2015-08-18T14:22:54.923" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding to Graphus's answer, you can also cut the board down the middle run them through a jointer and reglue them back together. If you can flip one side over for the join, you will reduce the max bow it is capable of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-08-18T18:30:09.693" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T18:30:09.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2243" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2245" CreationDate="2015-08-18T18:37:45.710" Score="4" ViewCount="2740" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to create legs for an outdoor cedar tree round table.  I'd like the table top to be 18&quot; to maybe 20&quot; high.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How might I securely attach these legs to the tree round?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tree round is 4' in diameter, and roughly 14&quot; thick.  So it's already 14&quot; high.  I am turning this into an outdoor table to put under a covered area.  I also have four cedar logs from 8&quot; to 12&quot; in diameter.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking that I would cut the logs into short round legs, just striping the bark and chopping them off at 4&quot; or 6&quot; tall.  The idea was that they that would stand on their own, I would position them appropriately and then set the tree round table top on top of these.  A table. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has since been pointed out, that if the table were to fall off its legs, even at 4&quot; or 6&quot;, it might hurt someone.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SYrFx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SYrFx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cedar tree round and logs&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related Questions: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2112/how-can-i-keep-a-cedar-tree-round-from-checking&quot;&gt;tree round checking (1)...&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2114/how-to-can-i-repair-mitigate-rot-in-the-center-of-a-western-cedar-tree-round&quot;&gt;center rot (2)...&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;and Original Post too long: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2109/how-can-i-make-a-cedar-tree-round-into-an-outdoor-table&quot;&gt;build a table&lt;/a&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="962" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2019-04-08T20:07:07.193" Title="How can I turn a couple of logs into stubby legs for a outdoor tree round table?" Tags="|technique|furniture|outdoor|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2244" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2252" CreationDate="2015-08-18T19:11:23.527" Score="8" ViewCount="34261" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ikea.com/ca/en/catalog/products/50106773/&quot;&gt;GERTON table top&lt;/a&gt; which is made of solid beech. In the instruction they says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Apply a thin coat of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ikea.com/ca/en/catalog/products/50070378/&quot;&gt;BEHANDLA wood treatment&#xA;  oil&lt;/a&gt;. Leave the&#xA;  oil to penetrate the wood for about 2 hours. Wipe off surplus oil with&#xA;  a cloth or kitchen paper. During the first week of use the table top&#xA;  should be treated every second day and after that every third day&#xA;  until the surface is saturated (after about 2 months). Then treat the&#xA;  surface as required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in the BEHANDLA instructions they say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Apply BEHANDLA with brush or pad in a thin, even film. Leave to&#xA;  penetrate the surface for approx. 15 minutes. Wipe off any unabsorbed&#xA;  oil with a soft cloth. Let the surface dry and repeat the oil&#xA;  treatment 1-3 times in accordance with the absorbency of the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will solely use the table as a computer desk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, which set of instruction should I follow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, is there another (better) alternative for my use? The color of the table top is fine as is and I prefer matte surface finish over glossy finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1052" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-08-18T19:39:36.763" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T23:07:48.610" Title="How to oil/treat a solid beech table top that will be used as a computer desk?" Tags="|wood|oiling|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2015-08-19T12:13:43.697" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2243" CreationDate="2015-08-18T19:23:36.217" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hrmm, my first thought would be to drill a couple of 2&quot; holes in the 'legs' and the underside of the 'top' and make some 2&quot; dowels to connect the two, but I'd wonder if as these things dry whether or not that would crack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to take a sheet of 3/4&quot; exterior grade plywood, lay ot over the bottom of the table 'top', trace it, then grab a compass and set it for a couple inches, and scribe the the profile a couple of inches back toward the center. Then use a jigsaw to trim the plywood to this smaller size. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the plywood as a stand-in to mount the legs to with lots of wood screws, then set the 'top' over this base, and screw from the bottom up using the same screws (say 3&quot; wood screws, &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; drywall screws.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and I'd defintiely cut the center of the plywood to keep from creating a pocket where water could collect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T19:23:36.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2244" CreationDate="2015-08-18T19:23:54.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Boiled linseed oil is easy to apply, has a matte finish that you prefer, and will soak into the wood with repeated applications.   For something more durable, but still natural, go with Danish oil.  But that will build up a more glossy coat with more applications.&#xA;i think I read somewhere that the Ikea oil is a camelia oil, which is foodsafe, but that wouldn't be necessary for this desk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="837" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T19:23:54.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2243" CreationDate="2015-08-18T19:31:26.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would certainly drill holes into the 'legs' and into the underside of the table and use a dowel to keep them lined up.  I would glue the dowel into the legs but not the top since if you want to move it you might want to take it apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to bolt L-brackets onto the bottom of the table and once again have holes in the legs and just 'set' the down bracket into the holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last, since people are unlikely to crawl under the low table, take the brackets from the last and actually attach them to the inside of the log leg.  then the whole thing is one piece but can be easily disassembled to move it elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T19:31:26.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2244" CreationDate="2015-08-18T19:32:24.140" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For use as a computer desk, I'd go with a polyurethane. Much harder, less likely to gouge or scrape the wood, and you be done in a weekend, provided the weather's not terrible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd probably shoot for an oil based poly for hardness, or a water based one if you want to be able to clean up without smelly solvents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T19:32:24.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2244" CreationDate="2015-08-18T19:36:15.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I will solely use the table as a computer desk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By this, I will assume you have no need for a food-safe finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ikea.com/ca/en/catalog/products/50070378/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BEHANDLA oil&lt;/a&gt; appears to be little more than boiled linseed oil (BLO) per IKEA's product description page:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Product description&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Linseed oil, Wood treatment oil, Lead free drying agent, Emulsifier&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BLO is a non-food-safe grade of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linseed_oil&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;flax seed oil&lt;/a&gt; (or conversely, flax seed oil is just food-safe BLO).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I apply BLO, I generally pour some onto the surface and spread it around with a rag to a generally even coat.  I continue to do this until the surface doesn't soak in any more of the oil.  After wiping off the excess, I'll then use a clean rag to clean up the surface of any remaining oil that the soiled rag missed.  Then let the surface sit for an hour or two to make sure nothing else seeps out.  If it does, clean it up like you did previously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There would be no issue with following the instructions on the GERTON table top, which has you reapplying every few days for a while until the surface is saturated.  However, this is more labor- and time-intensive, and to be honest, you probably won't notice too big of a difference from my instructions above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that BLO-soaked rags have a chance of autoignition if left in a pile, so make sure you allow them to dry out flat and away from any fuel sources.  Or just chuck them in a fireplace if you're having a fire anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also, is there another (better) alternative for my use? The color of the table top is fine as is and I prefer mat surface finish over glossy finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a matte finish, BLO is a good way to go.  It preserves the color (mostly) of the wood and leaves the tactile finish of the wood the same.  Using a film finish will result in that plasticy feel you get on some furniture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, if you're looking for a matte finish using a different type of oil/varnish, a matte polyurethane will work, as will Danish oil as @JasonRDalton suggested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-08-18T19:43:48.977" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T19:43:48.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2243" CreationDate="2015-08-18T19:36:47.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The weight of that top would certainly be a necessity for caution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Logs connected in a triangle&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were going to just use the logs more or less as is you could carve out large recesses for the logs that the table would then sit on. If you then also had spars or stretchers connected firmly to each of the legs (3 seems like a good number) that would make it harder for the table to topple. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tempted to say that the sheer weight alone on this triangle of logs and stretchers would reduce the risk of injury to null but I wont the safety of other on it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Casters?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The height increase you are looking for could come from some heavy duty casters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4gPdt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4gPdt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Heavy Duty Caster&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.xc-hp.com/lwgfly/products/big/201010/Heavy_Duty_Caster_506_0_1287547195.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;xc-hp.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not that one specifically but something of the sort. When purchasing pay attention to the weight specification of the casters. Getting at least 4 could be pricey depending but at least then you could move the table. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2019-04-08T20:07:07.193" LastActivityDate="2019-04-08T20:07:07.193" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2251" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2253" CreationDate="2015-08-18T22:19:11.910" Score="7" ViewCount="5850" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having a bit of a sap/gum problem with my Oregon tabletop which at the moment I have left raw (unfinished).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GFWlj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GFWlj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture of my tabletop&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The timber is very well aged (at least 20 years), quartersawn thick originally, now it's been put through a thicknesser it's about 60mm thick. It came from some massive beams which were salvaged from a collapsed building  after an earthquake in another part of the country. I've previously used quartersawn wood from the same batch as massive shelves which I finished with Danish Oil and which came out brilliantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would have oiled this tabletop too, but it needs a lot more sanding (by hand!) to get it perfectly even and level and smooth enough to oil (the laminate join between the two bits of timber that make up the tabletop is lower than the rest of the tabletop, it should have gone through the thicknesser a few more times AFTER being joined, but that's wasn't feasible), and unfortunately the weather isn't reliable enough to do that for another couple of months. Plus, it just cool just being raw timber as it is right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sap has only come out in the last few days, and I am sure it is because I have been turning the heating up to stay warm. It's doesn't come off at the touch and it smells fine, so it's not a massive inconvenience, but I was wondering if anyone could give me some advice on how to 'cure' the sap? I would prefer to stick with my plan of oiling the tabletop, but I could varnish it instead if that is a more reliable option. But, like I said, I have used this timber elsewhere and finished it with oil and I have had no problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="936" LastEditorUserId="936" LastEditDate="2015-08-19T23:32:09.647" LastActivityDate="2019-06-09T12:47:48.800" Title="Dealing with sap on table top" Tags="|finishing|sap|tabletop|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2244" CreationDate="2015-08-18T23:07:48.610" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would use so-called Danish oil (I have used Watco for decades).  It has the matte surface that you are looking for and if it gets any dings or scratches, a little sanding will get rid of them and a quick recoat of the surface gets it looking as good as new in minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T23:07:48.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2251" CreationDate="2015-08-19T13:19:46.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oil as planned, then seal with shellac? If shellac will stop knots bleeding through paintwork applied over it it could similarly prevent gross penetration of sap like this but only time would tell if this worked. To be an effective barrier the shellac couldn't be just a thinly wiped coat so it would of course change the look of the piece fairly significantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sort of thing happens less frequently these days because of kiln drying being so common to quickly get wood down to workable moisture levels, and the heating 'sets' the sap in the wood (basically converting it to a harder, crystalline form, which is a permanent change). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can mimic the effect to a degree with air-dried wood by just allowing it to get to a high temperature, even by sitting it in direct sunlight (the temps required are quite low, below the boiling point of water in fact).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible that you may be able to locally treat the wood by heating with a heat gun, without much risk of scorching the wood. In theory you might also be able to do this with a domestic iron but I don't know how deeply the heating would need to go to solve the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T13:19:46.633" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2254" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2256" CreationDate="2015-08-19T14:36:08.280" Score="22" ViewCount="6828" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking at a 35 piece wood drill bit set in an online shop&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M7cLP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M7cLP.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although only Forstner bits are present for larger size holes, the size ranges overlap so ..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I want to drill a 10mm hole I have a choice of&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Forstner bit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Auger bit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flat bit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spur-tipped drill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under what circumstances would I choose which bit? and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="158" LastActivityDate="2018-02-08T20:34:06.777" Title="Which type of drill bit for which jobs?" Tags="|drill-bits|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2243" CreationDate="2015-08-19T14:41:28.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could consider splitting the legs into small pieces.  You an axe or a froe.  These smaller pieces will dry faster than the bigger log.  Since they are split they will hold a lot of strength.  In a while maybe a month - chop them down into tapered pieces with an axe.  Drill a fairly large hole, something like an inch and half into the table and than insert the  base.  As the table top dries it will shrink over the legs and hold them really snugly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_wfWGgaxnw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_wfWGgaxnw&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="686" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T14:41:28.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2254" CreationDate="2015-08-19T15:00:06.023" Score="32" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Under what circumstances would I choose which bit? and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different bits excel at distinct tasks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Forstner/Saw-tooth Bits&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qc8jp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qc8jp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Forstner&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,180,42240&amp;amp;p=45533&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lee Valley&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These bits are excellent if you need a relatively shallow hole with a flat bottom and crisp, clean sides.  The center spur keeps the bit on track to your chosen centerline without walking into porous grain.  Forstner bits are best suited for using in the drill press where they can easily be kept on track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forstners are suitable for hogging out waste in mortises.  I have also seen them &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.lostartpress.com/2013/02/26/unsung-hero-my-drill-press/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;used for half-blind dovetails&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that these can have a tendency to follow an adjacent hole and be pulled off course if there is too much overlap.  However, they are more forgiving in this aspect compared to the other bits described below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Auger Bit&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HLbo8s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HLbo8s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Augers have the advantage of having the small screw &quot;snail&quot; tip that draws the bit into the wood you are drilling.  They have a tendency to be a bit coarse compared to brad-point bits, though chairmakers do use them for drilling tenons.  Non-powered ones are used quite often with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/Auger-Bits-for-Hand-Brace/departments/328/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;braces&lt;/a&gt;, and I can attest that they can give great results for furniture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I have used these for drilling holes in my workbench for holdfasts.  Contractors use them all the time for drilling holes in wooden studs for running wiring.  Since they have a lead screw to draw the bit into the wood, they work best at low RPMs and can be downright dangerous at high RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Spade (Flat) Bit&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lU9Yos.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lU9Yos.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spade bits are great for quickly cutting a hole through a board.  They are very coarse, but man, do they chew through wood fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally not used in fine woodworking due to the coarseness.  Also, they are very prone to falling into adjacent holes, so bear that in mind if you have any overlaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Brad Point (Spur-tipped) Bit&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sf8ECs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sf8ECs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These bits are great for drilling smaller-sized holes with minimal tearout.  The brad point ensures that the drill centers where you want it instead of skittering around to stick in porous grain.  The edges of the bit on the pointy end have spurs that shear through the face of the wood, leaving a nice, usually tearout free surface.  Also, the sides of the hole will be very crisp and clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brad point is also useful for drilling so that the brad &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; sticks through the other side, then flipping the piece and completing the hole.  This way, you get tearout-free sides on each face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These bits have a strong tendency to deflect into adjacent holes if there is overlap, so bear that in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Other Considerations&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drill bit sets seem nice since you have a wide variety of sizes to choose from all in one place.  However, most craftsmen will use only a portion of the bits and never touch some.  There is something to be said about only buying the tools you need for the job - often you end up spending less in the long run since you buy less tools.  However, if the price is right, then a kit is a good choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-03-02T20:45:57.283" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T20:45:57.283" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2257" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-19T22:11:10.930" Score="3" ViewCount="165" Body="&lt;p&gt;I intend to make a number of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mycarpentry.com/easy-bench-plans.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;simple wooden benches&lt;/a&gt; in the near future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y8NDL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y8NDL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Simple Bench&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, my aim is to make a wider bench capable of seating four across - pew style. Can I reliably assume that the same plan will work with a width of 80-96 inches? What kind of bowing might occur? Might they break?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1055" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-08-19T23:01:39.913" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T23:01:39.913" Title="Maximum size for an unsupported bench" Tags="|safety|lumber|strength|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-08-19T23:18:26.357" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2258" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2261" CreationDate="2015-08-20T00:05:20.383" Score="9" ViewCount="7745" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to plane the edges of the wood strips I cut using a hand plane, but I've got a new benchtop power jointer and wanted to use it as it would be much easier and accurate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am in the process of creating some cutting boards and wanted to use the small jointer I have to straighten up the edges of the strips I cut. I dont think it will be an issue doing it for the first set of cuts as I can plan with the grain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would the edge jointing go smooth across the grain, which is the resulting strips after the second set of cuts, like the ones in the below pic? I used to do the same with the hand plane and didn't have issues there.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tQ5kr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;end grain strips&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would you use a jointer on end grain?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I meant a jointer like the one in the following photo:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CFIul.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;jointer&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1058" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2019-02-10T19:42:51.203" LastActivityDate="2019-02-10T19:42:51.203" Title="Edge jointing end grain cutting board strips with a power jointer" Tags="|jointer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2258" CreationDate="2015-08-20T02:40:10.890" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would the edge jointing go smooth across the grain, which is the&#xA;  resulting strips after the second set of cuts? I used to do the same&#xA;  with the hand plane and didn't have issues there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example of an end-grain cutting board that was sent through a thickness planer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Nphl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Nphl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;broken end-grain cutting board&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/end-grain-through-the-planer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, that's a thickness planer, which has the cutterhead pretty much fully-enclosed and self-feeds once you get it started. But you're talking about a jointer, which leaves nothing but the workpiece between your workpiece and the push pads that you hold with your hands to push the workpiece across the jointer. If you're doing this with individual endgrain strips, it seems like those would be even more likely to split. I'm sure you could find ways to limit your risk, for example, by using a power feeder or a heavy-duty jig, but it still doesn't seem like a good idea. I wouldn't want my hands anywhere near the workpiece when something like this would be likely to happen. Trying to joint endgrain on a jointer sounds like a great way to wind up in the emergency room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, some people get away with using a thickness planer to take off &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QJ2LSj4RhAs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;very shallow bites&lt;/a&gt; (e.g., 1/32&quot; or less).  If you want to try this it's important to have sharp knives (and preferably a segmented cutterhead with sharp cutters) to help against tearout, and to chamfer (bevel) the edges to help protect against blowout on the trailing edge...but there are still safer and less accident-prone ways of flattening the end grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll probably have better luck with a drum sander or router sled, though it's still important to take light passes. It seems like everyone I know with a drum sander has a dent in the wall from a drum sander &quot;incident.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would you use a jointer on end grain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definitely no. Granted, some species will be more prone to splitting across the end grain than others, but in general it's too dangerous. Don't joint the individual strips. Instead use a high-quality crosscut blade on your table saw when you make the crosscuts, and after you've glued up the board, use a router sled, sander, hand plane, or scraper to further smooth the surface if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-08-21T03:51:56.460" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T03:51:56.460" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2254" CreationDate="2015-08-20T10:17:04.567" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Excellent answer already from grfrazee but I wanted to add a few details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although there is some overlap in sizes with this kit (and many others) often the bits don't overlap &lt;em&gt;in function&lt;/em&gt;, so the size overlap is quite deliberate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They only duplicate function if you think of drilling one 1/2&quot; hole as the same as drilling every 1/2&quot; hole. For example, if you want a shallow, flat-bottomed 1/2&quot; depression in a piece of wood the Forstner is the only choice here. If you want to drill 1/2&quot; though-holes in a beefy workbench for bench dogs or holdfasts then the auger would be the one to pick. For just drilling a simple hole through the thickness of a board then the spade bit is sufficient (although both the Forstner and the auger bits can be used for this as well, where appropriate).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Forstner bits&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the bits in this set are not truly Forstner bits. As indicated by the toothed edge these are multi-spur bits of a similar type but not the original Forstner design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned Forstners are perfect for flat bottomed holes (that is except for the central depression left by the &quot;gimlet point&quot;). They also drill equally well &lt;em&gt;irrespective of grain orientation&lt;/em&gt;. In addition, they are suitable for boring partial holes, i.e. where you want to drill a scallop from the edges of a board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Important to stress that these are basically intended for use only in a drill press. You can use them with a handheld power drill, but it's risky and not recommended practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Auger bits&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The central threaded point on these is called the &lt;em&gt;lead screw&lt;/em&gt;. In addition to allowing the bit to be centred accurately on a mark when commencing drilling these actually pull the bit through the wood, reducing the force necessary for drilling quite considerably; and as a result great care should be exercised if drill speed is high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to their overall form they excel at drilling deep holes with dead-straight sides, the entire length of the bit if needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: not well suited to boring into end grain as the lead screw can easily get clogged with swarf and cease to draw the bit into the wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spade bits&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These get a bit of a bad rap for leaving surface tearing around the hole and this can be a problem, but not all spade bits are created equal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On cheap ones the flutes to either side are dead flat across their tops and these are more prone to splintering surface wood fibres. Better ones have angled faces on the flutes (e.g. 10°) and may additionally angle upwards from the centre slightly to further improve cutting performance. Other well-designed spade bit have little spur-like projections at the outside shoulders to help cut a sharp-edged hole; where a purchased bit doesn't have these they can be filled into the profile using a needle file or slipstone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One advantage of spade bits over the previous two types is that the angle of the hole can be changed slightly &lt;em&gt;during drilling&lt;/em&gt; if needed, something the design of an auger bit will specifically not allow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brad-point or lip-and-spur bit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with the spade bits there are some variations in design for these. Some have a central point only, with straight or angled shoulders, others have a spur on each outside edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No real overlap with other bit types here as these are the bit of choice for drilling deep, smaller-diameter holes in wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T10:17:04.567" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2258" CreationDate="2015-08-20T13:01:47.500" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would the edge jointing go smooth across the grain, which is the resulting strips after the second set of cuts? I used to do the same with the hand plane and didn't have issues there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This depends on the depth of cut you take with the jointer.  If you take a pretty shallow cut (1/32&quot; is probably about right) and have very sharp jointer blades, the finish should be ok cutting cross-grain.  However, you will still likely get some blowout on the back end of the piece (the last part to be fed through the jointer).  This is because the jointer knives will want to spilt the cross grain off the corner.  This can be alleviated by chamfering that corner before planing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would you use a jointer on end grain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would avoid it.  As @rob said, it's very dangerous, and the risk-vs.-reward is not in your favor.  Just imagine the knives splitting off the chunk your hand was using to feed the piece through, and then there being nothing between your hand and that rapidly-rotating, very sharp set of blades.  Even if you're using push blocks, the push blocks could catch in the blades and be flung across the shop (if you're lucky) or flung into your face/gut/crotch (if you're less lucky).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found success using a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; sharp hand plane to level off end grain on cutting boards.  The success of this approach is very dependent on your ability to glue up the blank mostly level/flush in the first place so you have less to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T13:01:47.500" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2254" CreationDate="2015-08-20T17:27:42.157" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is too long for a comment but not as comprehensive as other answers ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, something not mentioned regarding &lt;strong&gt;augers&lt;/strong&gt; is their length and diameter. They can be much wider than other bits, allowing for wide, deep holes. At a box store you're likely to see augers in 18 inch lengths or even longer, they're very good for drilling deep holes without flexing like an extension rod might. They may not be as fast as a spade bit but they are more stable and will keep you drilling (mostly) straight once the lead screw has bitten. &lt;em&gt;They're what I would use for drilling through thick stock like 4x4s.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also add that &lt;strong&gt;spade&lt;/strong&gt; bits tend to &quot;wobble&quot; and will often not make a perfectly circular hole; for this you want either a hole saw or a forstner/sawtooth bit depending on depth and diameter of the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For fine woodworking, as I believe others have mentioned, you will likely be using brad point or twist bits and forstner (and similar), because they will get you a more uniform hole with less tearout. Spade bits may be used, especially if they have a spur on the edges to help reduce tearout, and you make a solid backing for your piece being drilled, also to reduce tearout. Masking tape can be very useful on the entry hole as well, both for positioning and for reducing damage to the entry surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="38" LastEditDate="2016-03-04T21:33:27.383" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T21:33:27.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2263" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2265" CreationDate="2015-08-20T18:17:48.897" Score="14" ViewCount="7738" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have quite a few hand saws that I have bought from antique stores, garage sales, and ebay.  They all have some amount of rust, ranging from occasional spot rust to full-on rust on the entire saw plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My usual rust removal routine is to use a wire wheel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1ZruQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1ZruQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wire wheel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to remove as much surface rust as I can, followed up by sandpaper to get rid of scratches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an added wrinkle, hand saws often have etches in the plate that may be destroyed by some means of rust removal (i.e., heavy sanding and other abrasive means).  The image below (source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.disstonianinstitute.com/16page.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Disstonian Institute&lt;/a&gt;) illustrates such an etch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5sEeZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5sEeZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What other effective and efficient means are there to remove rust from a hand saw?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-08-20T18:35:56.367" LastActivityDate="2023-09-19T21:39:19.993" Title="What are some efficient and effective ways to remove rust on old hand saws?" Tags="|technique|hand-saw|rust|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2263" CreationDate="2015-08-20T18:41:31.643" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vinegar-and-salt rust removal has been recommended for tools as slow but very safe and very effective. I'd remove wooden handles first, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been meaning to clean up a bunch of old handsaws myself, along with a few other abused tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not a chemist, but my understanding is that the acetic acid reacts with iron oxide to form iron (III) acetate, which is water-soluble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure about the salt's function either, to be honest. Some folks claim the chloride ion might cause pitting in some metals and advise avoiding it; vinegar alone seems to do a fine job on everything but the worst-damaged surfaces (which I expect I'd need to attack abrasively).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has also been suggested that adding a bit of dish detergent as a &quot;wetting agent&quot; might help de-rust fasteners and other small corners. It would certainly help cut through any remaining oil on the metal. (You should degrease the tool first, but...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Caveat: It is reported that this treatment will remove &quot;blueing&quot; from steel. I don't know whether it will attack pot metal, as molasses is reported to. It didn't seem to do any damage to brass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, since this is an acid bath, however mild, you should give the tools a brief  baking-soda bath afterward to neutralize any residue. Then, of course, dry thoroughly and immediately oil so they don't rust again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lots of web-discussion about this, if you want to dig deeper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Late addition:&lt;/strong&gt; The best container I have found so far for soaking handsaw blades is a plastic window-box planter. It's long enough to hold the blades, but not wide enough to lay them down. On the other hand, I can fill it almost deep enough to completely cover them with two quarts of vinegar, and if I toss in a few other tools that need cleanup that raises the level enough to do the job. A gallon of vinegar has so far de-rusted three saw blades and two abused planes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried adding a very small amount of salt in my second attempt (reusing the same vinegar, which still seems to have been effective). I'm not sure whether it made a difference or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The handle of the wire-brush I was using to mechanically loosen some of the rust is now somewhat ebonized, from the iron acetate acting as a stain.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't yet tried the molasses approach; may give that a spin for the next tool. The fact that we don't have a clear explanation for how it works bothers me...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2015-12-29T05:31:14.570" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T05:31:14.570" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2263" CreationDate="2015-08-21T09:48:49.893" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rust removal basically falls into three camps: abrasive, chemical and electrical. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people use a little of two of these, for example by abrading most of the rust away and then using certain polishes which have some chemical action in addition to the fine abrasive particles that physically polish the metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An additional point, it's worth degreasing (washing or solvent degreasing) any metalwork prior to getting at the rust, regardless of the method used, but it's particularly vital when using chemical or electrical means as without it you can get much slower or patchy results. It can be surprising just how much surface rust is removed by giving it a good scrub! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Abrasive&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fairly obviously this includes using wire wheels, abrasive paper/cloth/film/mesh or powders and steel wool, but this category also include physically scraping off bulk rust, e.g. with a hard steel or carbide scraper. This last is of particular application to saw blades since the large uninterrupted flat surfaces makes for an ideal canvas for scraping to quickly and relatively easily get the bulk of the rust off, prior to using a finer technique to remove the last of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no denying the effectiveness of abrasive methods since you can sometimes see the rust come off before your eyes, so the technique is high on the list of many users because of the quick payoff and satisfaction. But they also come with some risks. The most obvious risk is to the tool itself and that is scratching of the metal — at even moderate speeds a &lt;em&gt;brass&lt;/em&gt; brush can mark softer steel, so great care should be exercised when using a steel-wire wheel at any speeds. You may inadvertently introduce texture that is difficult or impossible to erase; regardless if it can be removed not scratching it in the first place is obviously desirable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An under-publicised risk to wire-wheel work is that of the tool being snatched by the rapidly spinning wheel. The danger of this, not just to the tool but to the operator, should not be underestimated. If you must use it read up on the technique and practice at lower speeds! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; wear eye protection when using a wire wheel to remove rust, no exceptions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chemical&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To begin with there are the commercial rust removers (most based on phosphoric acid) — including the Internet favourites Evaporust, Naval Jelly and Ospho — and while these can be very effective, and some very fast, the cost of using them rises steeply in the long term.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more budget-minded tend to favour one or more home solutions, including muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid), battery acid (sulphuric acid), phosphoric acid, oxalic acid, citric acid, vinegar and my own personal favourite when I'm not in a rush, a solution of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homercidal.com/molasses/&quot;&gt;molasses in water&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This last sounds bizarre if you've never heard of it before but it does work and very well, although it is relatively to very slow. It can take a couple of days for light rust to a few weeks for heavier rust encrustations. However it is extremely safe; people have literally forgotten about parts soaking in molasses solutions for &lt;em&gt;months&lt;/em&gt; and the metal has come to no apparent harm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The strong acids, hydrochloric and sulphuric come with some dangers (not just of personal injury) so they should be used with great care and careful reading up on their use should be done prior to attempting any work with them. Also note, many metalworking sources state that hydrochloric acid can lead to what is called hydrogen embrittlement, which can fatally weaken the steel. How bad this is in practice or how pronounced the effect can be is the subject of heated debate, however I think it's best to avoid its use entirely for this purpose as there are other methods which are just as effective, just a little slower. And nobody should be in that much of a rush to get the rust off an old tool!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Electrical&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This a great method, quick, inexpensive (in the long term) and fairly simple to do, and the results can be everything you'd wish for as far as rust removal goes, leaving at best pristine steel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The proponents of electrolysis confidently state that it is the cheapest, safest and quickest rust-removal method going. They're slightly overstating things on all counts. It &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be very safe, but steels vary and bottom line, varied results are regularly seen. Sometimes it's merely a cosmetic difference but other times some etching or pitting occurs. And unfortunately it's impossible to preview the effect, you have to use the technique to see the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An important point in relation to saws, electrolysis can nearly erase the etch because it indiscriminately cleans the steel (the etch is still there, just the black is removed). So additional steps may be needed to restore the etch to visibility if this is desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: if using electrolysis don't bother with lye/caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) as some guides call for; the process works perfectly well with washing soda (sodium carbonate) which is far safer to handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-08-21T15:59:33.747" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T15:59:33.747" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2267" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2268" CreationDate="2015-08-22T02:25:22.687" Score="8" ViewCount="29723" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am getting &lt;em&gt;way&lt;/em&gt; ahead myself and looking at plans and examples of treadle lathes. One in particular was talking about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUiW2LUzL5c&amp;amp;t=7m28s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;his dead centre and how it was not as good as a live centre for his treadle lathe&lt;/a&gt; (which he states is due to friction).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5sl6L.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5sl6L.png&quot; alt=&quot;Dead Centre&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;Image still (of a dead centre) from linked video&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My related and hopefully not too broad questions are &#xA;what are live and dead centres? What are the functional differences between a live/dead centres? Would there be a practical reason to choose one over the other? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-08-22T18:38:06.897" LastActivityDate="2018-06-19T20:51:27.627" Title="What is the difference between a dead center and a live center?" Tags="|hand-tools|tool-selection|lathe|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2267" CreationDate="2015-08-22T05:08:40.813" Score="12" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;what are live and dead centres?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To put it simply a dead center is just that - dead. It has no moving parts. It is really nothing more than a metal shaft with a point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Akm4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Akm4.png&quot; alt=&quot;dead center&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parts-recycling.com/Metal-Working-Machine-/Drill-Press-/2-mt-mt-2-lathe-full-dead-centre-no-2-center.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;parts-recycling.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A live center is similar, but the shaft has a bearing that allows it to turn. For example, in my lathe, the tail stock has a Morse taper, in which I put a live center. The tenon fits in the Morse taper, and it has a bearing assembly with a conical point on the other end that is free to spin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gSd93.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gSd93.png&quot; alt=&quot;live center&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://zlivecenter.com/super-heavy-duty-live-center-zlc-08010/169-super-heavy-duty-live-center-zlc-08010-mt6.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Z Live Center&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is the functional differences between a live/dead centers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The live centers are great in that they don't have really any friction and allow your piece to spin freely. &#xA;Dead centers are more often found in treadle or pole lathes, which are often built to be &quot;period correct.&quot;  The use of a modern live center would be anachronistic in this case. A turner would use the dead center with some grease or oil on the point to keep it from squeaking in use.  I've also heard that ear wax or the skin oil on the side of one's noise was historically used, but don't quote me on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would there be a practical reason to choose one of the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not worried about being &quot;period correct,&quot; the live center is really the way to go. I think most modern lathes ship with one standard, anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-08-23T02:28:17.120" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T02:28:17.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2269" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2271" CreationDate="2015-08-22T16:53:59.960" Score="6" ViewCount="1833" Body="&lt;p&gt;What caused the yellowish discoloration of the wood on the photo?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have picked up this English walnut board at the local lumberyard recently, but it wasn't until I started planing I noticed it has yellowish spots. It appears the discoloration does not go very deep and I &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; be able to plane it away. Still, I am not sure if it is a natural fault of the wood or maybe it came in contact with impregnating chemicals, thus affecting its safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mYy68.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;English walnut board with discoloration&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="335" LastEditorUserId="335" LastEditDate="2015-08-22T17:04:46.980" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T00:13:59.250" Title="Yellow discoloration on a walnut board" Tags="|safety|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2075" CreationDate="2015-08-22T17:39:29.283" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I spray shellac as a washcoat/sealer before and after oil based grain fill on open pored woods, just one coat on the closed pored. I shoot nitrocellulose lacquer as my main finish. I find shellac a bit more difficult to clean out of my gun relative to nitro and I spray such a small amount of shellac that I just use the Prevail spray jars and keep an extra jar filled with straight DNA to clean propellant tops when done. I start with a 2lb cut but the viscosity of my flake mix changes as time goes by so I just add more DNA to suit my preference. Shellac also works well as a barrier coat over things like ca glue touch up when nitro is the topcoat and its not laying down well over the repair (pulling away from the repair). I cannot get the dry time speed or viscosity control with the premixed shellac that I can get with flake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="494" LastActivityDate="2015-08-22T17:39:29.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2269" CreationDate="2015-08-22T20:24:12.277" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible that this is evidence of a &lt;em&gt;previous&lt;/em&gt; fungal infection. Drying the wood can trigger the colorations. Specific fungi can change woods so  specific colours can later appear. I don't see the rest of the board in the picture but would you say that the discoloration follows the grain? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a pdf called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.coste53.net/downloads/Literature/Discolouration%20of%20timber%20in%20connection%20with%20drying/Discolouration_of_timber_in_connection_with_drying.pdf&quot;&gt;Discolouration of timber in connection with drying&lt;/a&gt;. A section described a yellow stain that follows the grain which was caused by &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Metabolization of tannic acids by the fungus:&#xA;  &lt;i&gt;Paecilomyces variotii&lt;/i&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In trying to find another resource I found a Google book &lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.ca/books?id=lMXYJaWbO2YC&amp;amp;pg=PA120&amp;amp;lpg=PA120&amp;amp;dq=Paecilomyces+variotii+in+wood&amp;amp;source=bl&amp;amp;ots=ZlNJuk_CJi&amp;amp;sig=TjaG3Svg0ulGQ6dHo17j7dgK4H0&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0CFMQ6AEwCmoVChMIiYazs6-9xwIVhQqSCh2-4QK5#v=onepage&amp;amp;q&amp;amp;f=false&quot;&gt;Wood and Tree Fungi: Biology, Damage, Protection, and Use&lt;/a&gt; which stated:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;i&gt;Paecilomyces variotii&lt;/i&gt; produces a yellow discoloration of oak wood during drying times through its pH-change, which causes chemical reactions of the hydrolyzable gallotannins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While that quote states &quot;oak wood&quot; this fungus has been found on many wood species so it is not a stretch to think that is what you have here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What does this mean?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming I am right there is nothing wrong with the wood. This colour should not penetrate too far and you should be able to plane it off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is related to the process of spalting where molds and fungi are used to naturally colour wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think there is a safety risk here if the above proves to be true. Not sure what else could have caused that colour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-08-23T00:13:59.250" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T00:13:59.250" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2272" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-24T00:19:44.327" Score="9" ViewCount="10929" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a pallet style table that I am building. I have a plate of contoured glass that will sit on top of it. To discourage it's movement off the table I was going to put some rubber feet on the base of the glass which will fit into some circular recesses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figure they would be very shallow. Just enough to stop the feet from moving but enough to have a gap between the glass and the table. 1/8th to 1/4 inches deep at the most and less than an inch in diameter. This is what the glass looks like just sitting on top the table. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ML15r.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ML15r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Table with glass top&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next is a picture with more focus on one of the corners. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HoSpr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HoSpr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The runners that I used both have bows in them. I have not issue with that since I take that as my table have a unique charm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I the two best ideas I could think off are a drill press with a forstner bit or a plunge router. I currently own neither of these tools ( although I do have a fixed router and a table.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Including the two mentioned tools, assuming they are viable, what tools (powered or otherwise) could I employ in creating a recess. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T12:43:49.497" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T21:24:53.663" Title="What tools/methods I could use to create a small circular recess?" Tags="|hand-tools|power-tools|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2272" CreationDate="2015-08-24T01:56:22.920" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;for this job I think you could get away with using a Forsner bit in a power drill.  1/8&quot; isn't much and could be done by hand, especially if these are smaller diameter bits.  If they are smaller than 1&quot; it can be done.  The trick is to take it easy and not try to go too fast or push to hard.  If there are any knots in the way you might need to try another method.  I would also poke a little hole for the tip of the bit to catch to keep it from drifting while the rest of the bit starts to cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T12:51:45.013" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T12:51:45.013" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2272" CreationDate="2015-08-24T09:35:19.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chisels, a light hand and patience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T09:35:19.303" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2272" CreationDate="2015-08-24T15:52:21.853" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think everyone is overthinking the issue at hand here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I figure they would be very shallow. Just enough to stop the feet from moving but enough to have a gap between the glass and the table. 1/8th to 1/4 inches deep at the most and less than an inch in diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really, all the OP is asking is how to make a circular recess 1/8&quot; to 1/4&quot; in depth, and less than 1&quot; in diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The OP mentions that he does not currently have a set of Forstner bits, nor a drill press.  In my opinion, this would be the &lt;em&gt;best&lt;/em&gt; tool for the job.  For a hole 1/4&quot; maximum, drilling freehand with a Forstner bit should be no problem whatsoever.  I have personally drilled &gt; 2&quot; deep holes with a 2&quot; diameter Forstner bit, freehand, with no ill effects to my health.  Sure, the holes were a bit wonky, but that's not the point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All discussion of making a template and using a router is way overkill.  By the time one makes a router template, sets up the router to the correct depth, and routs out one of the recesses, I would have drilled all four holes freehand with a Forstner and moved on to other things.  Considering the time invested in doing the router work, I think it's cheaper (and more efficient) to get a Forstner bit.  Then, the OP will have a new tool for his arsenal that can be used down the road.  (Isn't buying new tools half the point of woodworking anyway?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, a spade bit with spurs on the edges will do a decent job at this task while still being pretty cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IhVSx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IhVSx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;spade bit&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If done correctly, one should end up with a circular recess that looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mO8Nl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mO8Nl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hole&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All it takes is a steady hand, and maybe a little patience and iteration to make sure the hole is the correct depth.  Let us not forget that this is &lt;em&gt;pallet furniture&lt;/em&gt;.  I'm not trying to put down the OP's craftsmanship, but this isn't exactly a Greene &amp;amp; Greene restoration job.  A little bit of tearout will not be a huge issue and can be sanded out of the softwood of which this pallet is made.  The OP can always chalk it up to the &lt;code&gt;unique charm&lt;/code&gt; of the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other drill bits could be suitable for this job as well.  Please see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2254/which-type-of-drill-bit-for-which-jobs/2256#2256&quot;&gt;this related thread&lt;/a&gt; for further reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; After reading some comments, I've seen that the OP indicated he may be making multiples of this table.  In this case, the use of a template may be warranted since he would be amortizing the time invested on the template over multiple pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T16:35:13.493" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T16:35:13.493" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2272" CreationDate="2015-08-24T16:59:40.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reading the original post and your later comments, I think your best bet here would be to buy a spade bit specifically for this job and then modify it to suit your preferences. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This takes advantage of one of the key advantages of spade bits: their low cost. And this is even if you had to buy new, but rusty old ones are also very easy to find secondhand at yard sales, car-boot sales, in thrift stores or charity shops, in boxes of miscellaneous old tools or junk. Going by the usual prices for rusty old bits and bobs I'd doubt you'd have to pay more than a buck for one; I've gotten old auger bits for less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even without modification a spade bit of the right diameter I think would be fine as I presume the central hole wouldn't be visible after the rubber feet are in place. But since most spade bits are made of carbon steel they're easy to reshape by file if needed; even if made of HSS a grinder would make short work of the needed modifications (and there would be no worries there about overheating it during grinding). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way you could literally be done in five minutes after you got the bit home, well before ironing out the design of a router template, much less starting work on building it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two possible spade bit modifications:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fex93.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fex93.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Spade bit mods&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one on the left would leave a small depression in the centre, approximately the size that some Forstner bits create. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is not acceptable you could do the mod on the right, which will leave just a tiny pip of wood in the centre of the hole that would need to be pared off with a chisel. The reason I don't suggest this as the first thing to try is that without a central spur it will be much harder to accurately position a drill bit on a marked spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2015-08-25T19:26:38.853" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T19:26:38.853" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2278" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-24T17:57:26.507" Score="10" ViewCount="21480" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently made an end grain cutting board. Unfortunately I didn't pay enough attention during the glue up and I have a couple of knots/knot holes that go through the board. The largest hole is roughly 0.5&quot; in diameter on one side and 0.125&quot; on the other. The board is ~1.25&quot; thick. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically I pot these kinds of holes with super clear epoxy and occasionally add saw dust or something if I want to match the wood color.  Given the application, I'm hesitant to use any old epoxy.  I've read a lot of threads (including on this forum) about different food safe adhesives/finishes/etc.  I've seen everything from &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;all epoxies are food safe once fully cured &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;never use epoxy  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other threads mention PVA glues, CA, and hide glue.  I don't think any of those are good solutions for filling a hole as large as the one I'm describing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/cfrsearch.cfm?fr=175.300&quot;&gt;FDA CFR 175.300&lt;/a&gt; is the most stringent regulation for food safe coatings/adhesives.  Wondering if there are any recommendations for a clear potting compound (doesn't have to be epoxy) that conforms with  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/cfrsearch.cfm?fr=175.300&quot;&gt;FDA CFR 175.300&lt;/a&gt; and would be good for this application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="566" LastEditorUserId="140" LastEditDate="2015-09-16T14:16:35.097" LastActivityDate="2021-12-09T04:53:32.273" Title="Food safe potting/knot filling compound" Tags="|wood-repair|toxicity|adhesives|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2278" CreationDate="2015-08-24T19:37:26.433" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;all epoxies are food safe once fully cured &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may be an overstatement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Food-safe epoxies do exist.  In order to be considered &quot;food-safe,&quot; the ingredients need to meet FDA &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?FR=175.105&quot;&gt;CFR 175.105&lt;/a&gt; &amp;amp; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/cfrsearch.cfm?fr=175.300&quot;&gt;175.300&lt;/a&gt; (in the United States, at least).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mcmaster.com/#general-purpose-epoxy-adhesives/=ymz4gr&quot;&gt;McMaster-Carr&lt;/a&gt; has some for sale.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.permabond.com/blog/2015/03/02/food-grade-adhesives-permabond/&quot;&gt;Permabond&lt;/a&gt; makes some.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.westsystem.com/ss/wood-epoxy-composite-tank-guidelines/&quot;&gt;West Systems&lt;/a&gt;, another well-known epoxy maker, specifically states that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[t]o date, none of Gougeon Brothers' epoxies meet FDA regulations or any other drinking water certified approval.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me, this means that nothing they have is strictly food-safe.  However, they also state the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What about the builder who weighs the risks and decides to go ahead against our recommendation? For the homebuilder it is a personal choice. If you build a potable water tank, follow the general guidelines noted above; in addition, you may want to install an in-line filter to help remove any possible extracts and odd tastes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here they recognize that people will use their product against recommendations and give a couple of suggestions to reduce the chance of any side effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There may be other manufacturers that have food-grade epoxy, but these are what my initial Google searching have unearthed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Given the application, I'm hesitant to use any old epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let us also consider the usage of a wooden cutting board.  They are not submerged in water for a long period of time (at least, they shouldn't be).  Most shops are pretty conducive to a good curing of the epoxy resin.  Generally, foods are not particularly acidic, though epoxy's resistance to acids may be found on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/chemical-resistance-epoxy-d_786.html&quot;&gt;this webpage&lt;/a&gt;.  It is possible that chopping with a knife could dislodge fragments of the epoxy, which could be ingested.  At his point, it is really up to you, as an individual, whether you can tolerate this risk of possible side effects (personally, I probably would if I reviewed the product's MSDS sheet and also read other users' reviews of the product for food-grade utility).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T19:37:26.433" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2280" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2283" CreationDate="2015-08-24T22:45:45.733" Score="7" ViewCount="17962" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently built a deck in my backyard with pressure treated wood and was also planning on staining it for color and weather proofing. However all of the wood came very wet, cutting through the pieces produced globs of wet sawdust even. So I asked a friend about his experience staining his deck and he advised me to wait a year for it to dry before I stain to avoid any complications due to trapping moisture. I would like to apply the stain asap for both aesthetics and for the weather proofing, as the coming 8 month long winter hits -40 Celsius. the deck has been complete for about 1 month which has also been quite hot, so it did dry out and contract a little bit already by the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I wait a full year for the deck to dry out or stain sooner rather than later?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1076" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T13:39:16.267" Title="How long should I wait for staining a new deck?" Tags="|staining|moisture|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2281" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2282" CreationDate="2015-08-24T23:17:57.553" Score="6" ViewCount="264" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a bunch to wood strips which are 1.5 by 1.5 inches and around 25&quot; long, I want to glue those together but would like to run them on my benchtop jointer before doing so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Planing the face will be easy using the guide blocks, but how do I make it square with the edge given that its only 1.5 inch high over the jointer without getting my hand too close to the blades? My understanding is that I have to push the face (after planing it) against the fence in order to get a 90 degree angle between the face and edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other tools that I have at my disposal are hand tools and a cheap bandsaw. I have only a jack plane (stanley #5) which I am still learning how to level stock with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1058" LastEditorUserId="1058" LastEditDate="2015-08-25T01:51:41.367" LastActivityDate="2019-04-16T20:05:54.657" Title="Jointing a 1.5&quot;x1.5&quot;x25&quot; stock on a benchtop power jointer/planer" Tags="|jointer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2281" CreationDate="2015-08-25T01:36:48.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you're a good candidate for investing in a set of push blocks. An example is below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2t8v9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2t8v9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;push blocks&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These don't necessarily need to be bought, but the store-bought ones usually have a grippy rubber bottom which helps when pushing stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Homemade push blocks don't need to be anything fancy, either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/graphics16/woodworkingtips-push-block.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;(source: woodworkersworkshop.com)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get a set of square faces, first joint one face, using the push blocks to keep the board flat on the bed. Next, rotate the piece ninety degrees so that your newly-flat face is riding the fence. Then, keep pressure with the push blocks such that the inner corner of the board is kept down and the face is right on the fence. If done right, you should have two perpendicular faces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After this, you can make another face parallel to the first one by running it through the table saw. Then the top face is made parallel with a planer. It is possible to do this all with a jointer, but it is more error-prone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2019-04-16T20:05:54.657" LastActivityDate="2019-04-16T20:05:54.657" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2280" CreationDate="2015-08-25T06:46:42.730" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So I asked a friend about his experience staining his deck and he advised me to wait a year for it to dry before I stain to avoid any complications due to trapping moisture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately this will relate to the irregular use of the word 'stain' in woodworking circles, and by manufacturers, which can and often does lead to confusion. By definition a stain should be a colouring agent &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt;, but the word stain is now used, often without qualification, for products that are in essence coloured varnish or another protective finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A true stain can in theory be used on wood that isn't fully dry without much issue, except for preventing the wood from taking the colour as strongly as it would otherwise. If the 'stain' is on the other hand a coloured varnish or other finish you would not want to do this as there could be significant problems with adhesion, leading to excessive weathering down the line (irrespective of whether the stain is oil-based or features water cleanup).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's likely not much help but the ideal way to check how dry your wood is would be to take a piece that has been outside and cut through it, see firsthand how wet it is in the interior. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I would like to apply the stain asap for both aesthetics and for the weather proofing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, a year's exposure to the elements shouldn't harm most woods to any significant degree. You will get some degree of surface discolouration (greying/silvering) that you're likely not going to be happy with, but the wood's structural integrity should be unaffected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Drying times for wood&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re. the year to dry out that your friend mentions, that sounds excessive but there's a guideline timeframe often mentioned in woodworking circles in relation to wood drying of about a year per inch (25mm) of thickness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; broad generalisation however, and is actually really for hardwoods specifically, but the drying times for wood species vary hugely due to the differences in their structure and density. And anyway that relates to wood drying out from green (freshly cut).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With your decking material, whatever it is, presumably it was kiln-dried wood initially that then became waterlogged due to less-than-ideal storage conditions. So even if the moisture content of the wood when it was delivered was the same as green wood this is actually quite different (because the water is stored in the wood's structure differently). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result there's no reason to suppose that your wood wouldn't get to an acceptable moisture content — perhaps 14-18% — in a far shorter timeframe than the suggested year, exposed to good ventilation and dry, sunny weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the weather where you are seems set to stay good it wouldn't hurt to wait a bit longer, but a month of drying in good conditions could be enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T06:46:42.730" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2278" CreationDate="2015-08-25T07:15:34.943" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally I'm of the belief that epoxies are safe for direct food contact (once fully cured) without specific information to the contrary, based on basic principles. That's &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; to say I would use any old epoxy as a surfacing for something like a drinking vessel, but I'd be perfectly happy with virtually any commercial wood finish for incidental food contact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In relation to your boards presumably you want to take a more conservative position and there are three possible fixes I think you should consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;leave the holes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fill with glue and sawdust/sanding dust&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;plug with wood&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A hole through a board at first glance would seem like a terrible health hazard but in reality it shouldn't pose much of a problem if it's A, through the full thickness of the board and B, not too narrow in diameter. To begin with nothing is going to get lodged in there and not be clearly visible and secondly it would be easily dislodged; in effect, there's not much difference between the sides of the holes and the flanks of the board. But obviously there's an aesthetic issue here and holes through the board could be considered unsightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if using epoxy you don't fully trust, the sawdust/sanding dust fill is clearly much safer purely on the basis of there being less epoxy present (far less, the dust component could be the major constituent). But to err even further on the side of caution you could use a waterproof woodworking glue already approved for use on cutting boards to bond the fill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plugging with wood is clearly the safest option if viable technically, since at most you'd be left with a glue line at the margins of the plug which is not much different to the glue lines already present in the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T07:15:34.943" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2280" CreationDate="2015-08-25T13:39:16.267" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pressure treated wood really could use a year to dry out before sealing it.  The year won't bother the wood in the weather at all.  Do you need a full year?  No but you might not have enough time to continue letting it dry this fall before it gets to cold to apply the stain/seal.  If all you are going to do is stain it, it might be fine by now, but a stain will apply more evenly if the wood is evenly dry.  The pressure treatment is done to help it last through weather and the only reason you would 'need' to do anything this fall is for aesthetics.1 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put up a new deck last fall and it's been a whole year now, and the winter and the summer haven't bothered the wood at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sealing it is more important for the wood to be dry.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T13:39:16.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2287" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-25T23:45:51.913" Score="7" ViewCount="2748" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have under-bed dresser drawers that use two under-drawer metal runners with ball bearings. However, all of the runners are broken or missing their ball bearings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've considered fixing the drawers to use side mounts but there's not enough space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My goal is to replace them with these &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/p/Liberty-18-in-Soft-Close-Ball-Bearing-Full-Extension-Drawer-Slide-2-Pack-941805/205171291&quot;&gt;Home Deopt 18 in. Slides&lt;/a&gt;, one per drawer, placed on their side underneath the drawer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was also thinking of using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lowes.com/pd_380988-93052-T9952G_0__?productId=50041758&quot;&gt;Lowes Richelieu 22.75-in Drawer Slides&lt;/a&gt;, one per drawer, upside down on the top of drawer to prevent the drawer from tipping when opened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure if I also need rubber bumpers or felt in front since these are self-closing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone done anything like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1085" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-08-26T01:11:12.100" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T02:03:54.740" Title="How can I repair my broken drawer runners?" Tags="|drawer-construction|drawer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2287" CreationDate="2015-08-26T01:57:41.403" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't recommend trying to improvise with the wrong style of slide, because it will take longer, is likely to be more frustrating, and may not work as well in the end. That said, you do have some options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy a replacement part from the original manufacturer of the bed. If the originals failed prematurely, you may be entitled to free replacement parts. If not, at least you may be able to get the exact matching part for a relatively quick and easy repair.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take a photo of the old broken drawer slide and send it to a company that specializes in hardware, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://cshardware.com&quot;&gt;Custom Service Hardware&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://wwhardware.com&quot;&gt;Woodworker's Hardware&lt;/a&gt;, for recommendations on replacement hardware.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you already know what you need, simply buy a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=45056&amp;amp;cat=3,43614,43616&amp;amp;ap=2&quot;&gt;center-mount drawer slide&lt;/a&gt; of the appropriate style and size.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Forego metal drawer slides altogether. Instead install UHMW plastic drawer runners, or wooden drawer runners with or without low-friction tape applied on the contact surfaces.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To prevent the drawer from tipping out, you can go a step further by using a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001DT15YM&quot;&gt;wooden sliding dovetailed drawer slide&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-08-26T02:03:54.740" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T02:03:54.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2289" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2290" CreationDate="2015-08-26T07:36:56.373" Score="5" ViewCount="2580" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building drawers to finish a bed frame I built.  The sides are made of 1x6 cedar (actual 0.75 by 5.5 inches, 19 x 140 mm).  There are four drawers, each with exterior dimensions of 39 x 36 in (100 x 91 cm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hand cut dovetails to join the boxes and plan to rout the insides to hold the bottom, which is a fine laminated finish plywood about 3/16 inches (4.8 mm) thick.  The 24-inch rails are rated at 50 pounds (20 kg) total, but I have to expect the bottom needs additional support for such a width and depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was originally thinking some straight steel rods perhaps 1/4 inch (6.4 mm) in diameter placed under the bottom oriented front to back to prevent sag and relieve much of the load from the edges.  There appears to be little supply of such materials at hardware stores except coarse threaded rods, which seem tacky.  I imagined something stainless and smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Woodworking sites such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Oversize_Drawer_Construction.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;woodweb&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.solowoodworker.com/wood/drawers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;solowoodworker&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodsmithshop.com/media/pdf/108/108-wooddrawerguides.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;woodsmithshop&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?68123-Wide-Drawer-Bottom-Support&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sawmillcreek&lt;/a&gt; mention several alternatives:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the rails under the drawer with guides at the edges&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install wooden cross bracing in the drawer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make the bottom thicker, like 1/2 inch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't do anything special but do glue the bottom firmly to the box&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use narrower drawers instead&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can rule out smaller drawers as we want to store comforters and heavy blankets in there.  Using more of the height for a thicker bottom I had initially ruled out, but the more I think about it, the more I am warming up to the idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone has done a comparison of various bottom structures, I would love to know about it.  Potentially, since I have four drawers, I could try four techniques to see what works out best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1086" OwnerDisplayName="wallyk" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-08-27T15:24:25.193" LastActivityDate="2018-09-20T08:51:29.460" Title="How can I prevent a drawer bottom from sagging?" Tags="|joinery|drawer-construction|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2289" CreationDate="2015-08-26T15:03:02.803" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't explicitly state your question in the post, but I'm going to answer assuming that it's along the lines of&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What can I do for the drawer bottoms to reduce sag?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To address your points:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I was originally thinking some straight steel rods perhaps 1/4 inch (6.4 mm) in diameter placed under the bottom oriented front to back&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to think of a good way to mount these that doesn't end up taking up more depth than increasing the bottom's thickness, but nothing is coming to mind.  Also, stainless rods are pretty expensive compared to thicker plywood (at least, in my experience).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Put the rails under the drawer with guides at the edges&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will work, but you might need a thicker bottom to mount your rails (here I'm assuming you're using metal ball-bearing type rails like one would buy at a big-box store, similar to the image below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nPiwg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nPiwg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;slides&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/how-to/choosing-drawer-slide/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rockler&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Install wooden cross bracing in the drawer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will help reduce sag, but can be a bit tedious to make it fit right.  Personally, I think you're better off with the next solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Make the bottom thicker, like 1/2 inch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, the quickest means of reducing drawer sag is to use a thicker bottom, as you've indicated was suggested in another forum.  For example, if you double the bottom thickness, you increase its stiffness by a factor of eight (stiffness is based on the cube of the thickness).  This is usually my first and only solution for large drawers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also keep a smaller groove in your drawer sides (1/4&quot; is probably ok) and bevel or rabbet the edges of the drawer bottom to fit the groove.  The drawer needs to be thickest at midspan to resist the loading, so narrowing the edges really doesn't affect its strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Groove Drawer Sides &amp;amp; Rabbet Bottoms&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1rAbl.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1rAbl.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Groove/Rabbet&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/drawer-boxes-corners-rabbets-dbl-rabbets-other-104002/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;WoodworkingTalk.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Groove Drawer Sides &amp;amp; Bevel Bottoms&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lzwbf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lzwbf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Groove/Bevel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/47633/making-a-traditional-beveled-edge-drawer-bottom&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fine Woodworking&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Don't do anything special but do glue the bottom firmly to the box&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, it's not good practice to glue in a drawer bottom due to expansion and contraction of the bottom.  However, if you are using plywood for the bottom, expansion/contraction is a non-issue since plywood is dimensionally-stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;use narrower drawers instead&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've indicated that this is not an option, so I won't address it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-08-26T15:14:30.003" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T15:14:30.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2291" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2292" CreationDate="2015-08-26T20:20:03.450" Score="6" ViewCount="3825" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a cutting board the other day and while I was inlaying another type of wood into it I made a mistake and cut some holes into the board. The local hardware store had some water-based wood filler which they said are food safe. I do use those fillers occasionally and I can get a good color match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that &quot;water-based&quot; and &quot;cutting board&quot; doesnt sound like a good idea, but was wondering if it is possible to use this type of filler given that the board will be finished with Tung oil, would the oil protect the filler from water? From previous experience, water-based fillers absorb the oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that I can use foodsafe epoxy or glue such as titebond 3 and mix with sawdust but would prefer the filler if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1058" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T12:37:35.883" Title="Water-based filler on a cutting board?" Tags="|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2291" CreationDate="2015-08-26T20:39:19.890" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Water-based doesn't necessarily mean water-soluble.  Water is just the solvent used to carry the finish.  Once the finish cures, the water-solubility is usually gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, consider &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B003FWK5BO&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Timbermate Wood Filler&lt;/a&gt;.  Per the product description, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...Timbermate may react with low grade steels and turn black. If this happens, simply add water and remove it, or wait for it to dry and sand it off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, while the product is still wet (uncured), it is water-soluble.  Afterwards, it must be sanded off, which to me means that water will no longer dissolve it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, finishing with tung oil really won't matter in terms of water resistance since the filler is resistant to water once cured anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can test the water-fastness of your dry filler on a scrap piece to be sure if it will last over time.  Just drill some holes on a scrap, fill with filler, let cure, and soak for a few days.  You should be able to tell if the filler holds up.  A cutting board shouldn't be soaked anyway, so this type of test should be sufficient to test the filler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the board will be finished with Tung oil&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I would avoid tung oil for finishing a cutting board.  Please have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?31049-Tung-oil-finish-for-cutting-board&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt; for further discussion on why it's a bad idea.  I'm not certain of the food-safety of &lt;em&gt;pure&lt;/em&gt; tung oil, but most products sold as tung oil nowadays have very little actual tung oil in them and are instead mostly polyurethane.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most people just use food-grade mineral oil and renew it every so often.  My previous statement about the finish not affecting the filler's water-resistance still stands with mineral oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T20:39:19.890" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2293" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-26T20:41:01.450" Score="6" ViewCount="307" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see that dado blade sets start around &lt;a href=&quot;https://jet.com/8-DADO-BLADE-SET-416381DB/3a5c1fc72f8044c4a6a1fa74ff87806f&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;$40&lt;/a&gt; and go up to &lt;a href=&quot;https://jet.com/8-PREMIUM-DADO-BLADE-SD508/13bb8c31f8db4b55aa596ac249c0b3a3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;$240+&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wanting to get one as a gift for a friend that is helping me build a small bookshelf. The $40 is much closer to the price range I'd like to spend, but I don't want to get him something he won't use. &#xA;Should I get him the $40 set or just a gift card to the local hardware store?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1087" LastEditorUserId="1087" LastEditDate="2015-09-01T15:30:43.717" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T15:30:43.717" Title="What is the difference between a $40 dado blade set and a $240 dado blade set ... besides the price?" Tags="|tool-selection|dado|saw-blade|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2015-08-27T01:58:17.520" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2293" CreationDate="2015-08-26T21:19:07.537" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I'm spending money I like to read the negative reviews on a product online.  This tells me what is wrong with them and I can decide if the issues are something I can deal with or if it happens to be an 'unlikely' occurrence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now with a dado set, the first question would be how much would they likely be using them, and what quality of tools do they normally buy?  I have a $240 set sitting on my wishlist at Amazon, because it rated very high and was a high quality set.  It's been on there for 4-6 years.  So while that is the set I would really like, as long as the set isn't crap, I would likely be happy with a much cheaper set.   The big thing is will I have to replace it after some medium use?   I also generally avoid (after experience) buying the cheapest of any tool, as I usually end up buying another one not too much later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the point is: know your person.  Some care very much about what tools they get; others, not so much.  If he doesn't have a set, then he might really appreciate them, but he might also be saving up for a nice set and if that was the case getting him a gift card to help might be the best solution.  Ultimately, asking him which he would prefer might be the safest option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-08-26T21:27:45.600" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T21:27:45.600" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2291" CreationDate="2015-08-27T12:37:35.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I understand that &quot;water-based&quot; and &quot;cutting board&quot; doesnt sound like a good idea&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water-based doesn't mean that the filler is water-soluble after setting, it could be like with latex paint (UK: emulsion paint) which is quite waterproof once fully dried. But obviously it'll depend on the product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manufacturer guidelines aside I would want to do a quick test to check that it is in fact durable when re-wetted, just to be on the safe side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My usual preference here would be to use a homemade mixture of sanding dust and glue, but I understand that some people would be reticent about that on the surface of a cutting board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case, I think you can expect that the fill won't be invisible since neither can be assured to absorb the oil equally. With commercial wood fillers the fills tend to end up lighter, with sanding dust + glue they tend to end up darker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the board will be finished with Tung oil, would the oil protect the filler from water? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this depends on a few things, perhaps mostly on how wet the board will get in use. Some people don't actually &lt;em&gt;wash&lt;/em&gt; their boards but basically just wipe them down, while others will scrub them in the sink and leave them to drip-dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could also be significant whether you're using &quot;tung oil finish&quot; (which is typically an oil/varnish blend, and may contain no tung oil at all) or actual tung oil, often sold as &quot;100% tung oil&quot; or &quot;pure tung oil&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While pure tung oil is reputed to provide very good waterproofing I've seen no actual evidence on just how good this actually is, and while oil-varnish blends are a step up from just oil in terms of water-resistance (because of the presence of the resins from the varnish component) they wouldn't be considered a truly waterproof coating. So again I think some testing is called for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T12:37:35.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2296" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-27T15:38:00.873" Score="1" ViewCount="1261" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building an outdoor table and the table top is being assembled using dominos and glue.  It's 6' long and I'm using pipe clamps to clamp the long side together while the glue dries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I was tightening the clamps in order to bring the joints together tightly, I noticed that the entire table was cupping due to the pressure.  I reduced the pressure once I got it together and it seems to have glued up well, but ideally I would be able to keep the pressure on while the glue dries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some strategies I can use to prevent this from occurring when clamping really long and thin (3/4&quot;) components?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since a picture always helps, I am clamping the length of this table top (pieces just placed for layout here):&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pW7Lw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Table top&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastEditorUserId="11" LastEditDate="2015-08-27T16:02:56.280" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T16:05:57.107" Title="How do I prevent cupping when clamping long and thin components?" Tags="|clamps|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-08-27T18:06:03.453" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2296" CreationDate="2015-08-27T15:52:04.653" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 2 things I can think of that help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;rotating which face is 'up' strip by strip.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;for things as thin as what you are dealing with what will make more difference is alternating your pipe clamps between 'top/front' and 'bottom/rear'It is a little more difficult set up, but if you have pipe clamps you can lay out on a table put your glued up pieces on them, start tightening them down and in between the ones on the table lay and tighten others on the top face.  Get them all snug then go ahead and tighten them down, if you have more than 3 gluings going on at once (say you are gluing 10 strips on one clamping, then you still need to take care and not tighten them down too hard or you can still get binding and bending. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7RNWM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7RNWM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Oh and a 3rd.  Using 'guides' (I know there is a better name) clamping straight boards across the face of your glue job to keep things flat.  You will have to go back and forth in tightening or if you tighten the bar clamps to soon, you might get cupping and if you tighten the face boards to much you won't be able to 'squish' the face together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vymeL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vymeL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2015-08-27T16:05:57.107" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T16:05:57.107" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2289" CreationDate="2015-08-27T16:02:57.187" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's worth noting right from the start that 3/16&quot; plywood is very thin for the bottom of a 36&quot;x39&quot; drawer. You're correct in thinking that you will need to do something to prevent the bottom from sagging too much.  But on the bright side, your drawer bottom doesn't need to support 50 lbs--or, more correctly, it cannot support a full 50 lbs without exceeding the capacity of the rails you've chosen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to strengthen your drawer bottom is to make it thicker. However, the obvious tradeoff is that, with a limit of 50 lbs on your rails, the heavier you make your drawer, the less capacity you have leftover for the stuff you want to put in the drawer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cedar has a density of about 23 lbs/cu.ft., and your drawer frame (sides, back, and front) is about 303 cu.in., or 0.175 cu.ft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;23 lbs/cu.ft. * 0.175 cu.ft. * = 4 lbs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So assuming your design uses an integral, inset drawer face, you have 46 lbs. of capacity available for your drawer bottom and whatever you're going to put in the drawer. If you add a false front, you'll have to account for the weight of that, as well. Once you decide how thick you want your drawer bottom to be, you can find the weight of a full sheet of that type of plywood, divide by the number of square feet, and multiply by the size of the drawer bottom. Subtract that from 46 lbs., and you'll have the maximum remaining load capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moving onto some of the remedies you're considering...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Put the rails under the drawer with guides at the edges&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm understanding correctly what you mean, this is not a good solution, for multiple reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All you're doing is effectively extending the support of the left and right sides by an inch or two on each side. The middle, which needs the most support, is still unsupported.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the drawer bottom sags significantly, it will produce a radial force along the sliding axis, so the slides won't roll as smoothly and may wear out prematurely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A center-mount drawer slide will do more to support the bottom, but the bottom of your drawer will need to be thicker than 3/16&quot; anyway in order to screw the slide to the bottom of the drawer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Install wooden cross bracing in the drawer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can add support ribs either on the underside or inside the drawer. If you're going to add them on the inside, you might as well just make the bottom thicker instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Make the bottom thicker, like 1/2 inch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 1/2&quot; bottom is more than adequate. 13/32 is borderline for a 50 lbs uniformly-distributed load, and anything thicker than that should support a 50 lbs. load just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Don't do anything special but do glue the bottom firmly to the box&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will help to the extent that loading the drawer will produce tension across the drawer bottom rather than pulling the edges of the bottom out of the grooves. Unless it's under significant tension even when it is empty, the bottom will still sag--but it may not sag quite as much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;use narrower drawers instead&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would certainly work but you mentioned you aren't interested in this option. Another variation on this idea is to put dividers in the drawer and attach the bottom to the dividers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T16:02:57.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2299" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2300" CreationDate="2015-08-27T19:05:03.663" Score="5" ViewCount="954" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently purchased a door way pull-up bar, however the trim on one side (referred to hereafter as the &quot;back&quot; side) is not thick enough for the pull-up bar's (&lt;em&gt;unable to find official nomenclature here&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sOA24.png&quot; alt=&quot;&amp;quot;stabilizer&amp;quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The back trim is flat, unfinished wood. How can I increase the depth of the trim such that it will be safe to use the pull-up bar in the doorway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simpler is better given limited access to tools (namely, a hammer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is a picture showing how the pull-up bar mounts in a door frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pO1RN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bar installation&quot;&gt;&#xA;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001EJMS6K&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1089" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-08-29T01:13:35.720" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T01:13:35.720" Title="How can I increase the door trim depth while maintaining structural integrity for a pull-up bar?" Tags="|trim|door|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2299" CreationDate="2015-08-27T19:57:27.093" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for structural integrity, not pretty, simply nail a 2x4 to the wall against the flat trim. Several 16d nails should be sufficient to hold your weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need something to look nicer, you might get a 1x? (width to match the existing trim) and replace the existing trim, then stain to match. Use finishing nails to hold it up, but since you'll be putting a lot of weight on it (relative to the weight of the trim piece), use extra nails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the 1x board isn't thick enough to support the pull-up bar, use 5/4 lumber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T19:57:27.093" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2301" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2303" CreationDate="2015-08-28T23:25:33.307" Score="7" ViewCount="912" Body="&lt;p&gt;My desk is nearly finished; all that's left is to have the glass top cut. To do this, I need a template to give the glass shop. I can't just give them dimensions since it's not perfectly square. More importantly there are pegs on the frame. The glass is to be &quot;keyed&quot; so that the pegs will keep it from sliding, and I need to ensure that the glass aligns near perfectly with them (perhaps 1mm of play on either side of the pegs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An image of the desk is below. note that the center of the desk is set roughly half an inch below the borders, so simply laying paper down and marking it is somewhat troublesome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How might I go about creating the template?&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vvuhb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vvuhb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T03:23:25.000" Title="How might I make a template to fit the top of my desk?" Tags="|planning|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2301" CreationDate="2015-08-29T00:36:28.213" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simplest answer may be a large sheet of paper (or several firmly secured to each other), fitted precisely to the space. If assembling, use two overlapping pieces, cut away if necessary, to fit the corners. Make sure it's all well secured so nothing can slide out of position, trap it between two large sheets of cardboard for safe travel, and...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or just get precise measurements of all sides and both diagonals? Should be possible to get the angles from that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need to allow for wood movement, if this glass is going to be inset. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strong suggestion: Find a glass shop that has worked with furniture makers before and ask how they'd do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T00:36:28.213" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2301" CreationDate="2015-08-29T04:46:38.107" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Geometric solution&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a large compass or trammel, you can precisely gauge all the distances and transfer them to a large template of whatever material you choose (paper, cardboard, hardboard, plywood, etc.). For each point you need to lay out, you just need at least two reference points and the distance from each reference point to the point you're trying to transfer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place the (center) point of the compass on a reference point on your table and adjust the radius to match the distance to the point you're transferring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lock in the setting, then move the compass to the corresponding reference point on your large sheet of paper and strike an arc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat for the second (and optionally third) reference point. The point you're transferring will be at the intersection of the two (or more) arcs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repeat the above steps for as many points as you need to transfer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if you gauge and mark from 3 or more reference points, any error will be apparent because not all the arcs used to transfer that point will intersect at a single point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also various other geometric construction techniques you can use to construct regular or irregular shapes using just a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compass-and-straightedge_construction&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;compass and/or straightedge&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Direct solution&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Originally I was thinking you needed to cut square holes in the glass, but after rereading your question it sounds like you just want to notch out the corners of a rectangular sheet of glass. That makes creating a template much easier:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut a piece of cardboard, hardboard, or thin plywood several inches wider than the half the distance between the left and right pairs of pegs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using a knife and metal rule or straightedge, mark the positions of the pegs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut out notches for the pegs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat for the other side.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Securely glue or tape the two slightly overlapping sides together.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the template still in place, use a knife and metal straightedge to trim (or mark, if using thicker material) the template to match the outside perimeter (the perhaps slightly out-of-square rectangle that encloses the pegs).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the material was too thick to trim with just the knife, remove the template and use a track saw (or a circular saw with a straightedge guide) to finish trimming the template along the knife marks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-08-29T05:21:15.513" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T05:21:15.513" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1720" CreationDate="2015-08-29T15:26:55.377" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question about voltage gets asked a lot. Going to 240 V does not change the power drawn by the saw. It might change the power to the blade, which is very different. In my case I have a 2 hp General TS that was wired for 110. I had it plugged into 110 but the 15 amp wiring in my shop really could not handle it. So... I was going to have to pay for a new circuit and wires. So I Went for a 240 V 30 amp circuit (same price). Now if I ever go for a 3hp cabinet saw, I am ready. The saw now starts immediately and the lights don't dim. I think the no load blade speed is faster. So, if you have very heavy wires, a 2hp motor can run on 110. But, as in my case, maybe not so much. Cutting 2&quot; thick maple just got a whole lot easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1090" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-08-30T02:25:56.677" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T02:25:56.677" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2305" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-29T16:46:31.300" Score="7" ViewCount="568" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a small horizontal fence.  The facing is batu and matches my front entryway deck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put penofin penetrating oil on the fence boards. Do I need to seal the end of the hardwood fence boards?  With what?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="962" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T23:44:00.797" Title="Do I need to seal the ends of hardwood fence boards?" Tags="|finishing|hardwood|finish-selection|fence|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2306" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2455" CreationDate="2015-08-29T16:59:59.950" Score="5" ViewCount="493" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a fence with hardwood facing.  The lumber yard (not a big box store) selected the lumber, batu decking boards, and delivered it. These are fairly expensive, 1x6 x 8' and 1x4 x 8' boards.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that a certain percent of boards have issues.  In the past I have hand picked, avoiding less good boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are good enough reasons that might cause me to justifiably return a board?  I am ignorant on this point and don't want to be unreasonable about it.  End split (N inches or more inches)?  Packing strap damage?  Through fractures at a crushed spot? Dull planer, so rough board?  Splits / splintering on the machined edges?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am talking a few hundred linear feet of hardwood lumber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="962" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-09-01T10:59:38.607" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T16:19:39.733" Title="What are good reasons to return hardwood boards selected by a lumber yard?" Tags="|lumber|hardwood|board-materials|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2305" CreationDate="2015-08-30T07:54:20.533" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you absolutely want to treat the ends of fence boards, even if they don't face upwards but especially if they do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically you wouldn't use anything different on them, just coat with the same product you use to protect the faces of the boards. However, an additional coat (or two) is advisable since the end grain is &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; much more absorbent than the face grain. So much so in fact that prior to installation some people even go to the trouble of standing their fence boards (and posts) in a shallow pool of the protective coating, letting the end grain soak it up for some time (how long varies, at least 10-15 minutes but sometimes over an hour) so that it penetrates deeply. Note however that this can leave a tell-tale darker colouring at the ends of the boards or posts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2015-08-30T08:00:23.393" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T08:00:23.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2308" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2309" CreationDate="2015-08-31T00:23:04.773" Score="12" ViewCount="10192" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before I start I would like to offer the obvious solution is to use some sort of sled, like a crosscut, that would give the perpendicular fence that would allow the cut. The problem with that is I was making my first sled so I was was stuck staring at my table saw trying to think of a solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it was my first sled I was allowing for some irregularity since the saw is not the best to begin with. I had this odd contraption using clamps and a long level that I knew was straight. I figure there has to be a better way (for when I make a better one). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming I am working on a sheet (sheeted goods but not a full 4x8) or something where a mitre saw would not help what can I do with my table saw to have two side meet at a right angle? I can make 2 opposite sides parallel but I don't know how to get my 90 degrees. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or perhaps this was not meant to be done with the table saw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-08-31T11:29:58.030" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T23:02:05.350" Title="How can I cut a 90 degree angle with a table saw?" Tags="|technique|table-saw|tolerance|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2308" CreationDate="2015-08-31T02:58:28.420" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you mentioned in your question, using a crosscut sled is an easy and reliable method of making perfect 90 degree cuts on a table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a sled but your blade is properly aligned parallel to the miter slots, you can use a miter gauge. Most saws include a miter gauge, although some are better than others at locking in their settings without wobbling during a cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's common practice to screw a longer wooden fence onto a miter gauge using the slots on either side of the miter gauge's face, as shown below. Some commercial miter gauges include aluminum fences that serve the same purpose--namely, providing better support for your workpiece close to the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h4ELx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h4ELx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;miter gauge with fence&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.familyhandyman.com/tools/table-saws/how-to-use-a-table-saw-cross-cutting/view-all&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Since it was my first sled I was allowing for some irregularity&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your sled itself doesn't need to be any particular shape, and the base doesn't even need to be square with the rails. It only needs to have a back fence which is adjusted perpendicular to the blade (in the case of a crosscut sled) or whatever angle you need (in the case of a miter sled).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Assuming I am working on a sheet or something where a mitre saw would not help...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually the factory-cut edges are straight and square, so you can put one factory-cut edge up against your table saw's fence, make the cut, then rotate the workpiece so the adjacent factory-cut edge is against the fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, the table saw is not my first choice for breaking down full-size (8'x4') sheet goods. Usually I'd rather lay the sheet down on a piece of foam on the ground and use a circular saw with a zero-clearance straightedge guide (or a track saw) to cut the sheet down to rough dimensions, then trim to final dimensions on the table saw if necessary. You can also use a parallel edge guide like the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kregtool.com/store/c48/saw-attachments/p79/rip-cuttrade/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kreg Rip-Cut&lt;/a&gt; along with your circular saw, using factory edge as your reference surface rather than using a straightedge or track saw that runs slightly longer than the length of your workpiece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-08-31T17:55:54.943" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T17:55:54.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1401" CreationDate="2015-08-31T12:53:37.140" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just stumbled upon this thread as I'm also trying to make a riddling rack.  I came across a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.garrettwade.com/product.asp?pn=91G01.05&amp;amp;SID=W4011000&amp;amp;EID=W4011001&amp;amp;utm_source=Google&amp;amp;utm_medium=ProductAds&amp;amp;utm_campaign=Google1&amp;amp;cvsfa=3928&amp;amp;cvsfe=2&amp;amp;cvsfhu=39314730312e3035&amp;amp;gclid=Cj0KEQjw9o-vBRCO0OLi2PfPkI8BEiQA8pdF4Fk8pa1KBL3u_RHFvDC2OrBgTxjNP75msg1ozLATCkUaAjBi8P8HAQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;portable drill guide jig&lt;/a&gt; which seems like it would be another potential solution, although perhaps more expensive than the wedge option if you have a drill press.  Cheaper ones exist, but may not be as good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kpj8w.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kpj8w.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1094" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-08-31T14:23:14.180" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T14:23:14.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2305" CreationDate="2015-08-31T13:31:45.367" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actual research based finishing outdoor wood - processes and products&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/products/publications/specific_pub.php?posting_id=1020&amp;amp;header_id=p&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/products/publications/specific_pub.php?posting_id=1020&amp;amp;header_id=p&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There additional links in the pdf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/finlines/finishline_mknaebe_2013_013.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Forest Products Laboratory (from the link above)&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The service life of a Water Resistant Preservative (WRP) finish is about 1 year on the exposed surfaces of wood decks; however, a WRP is the easiest finish to reapply. It absorbs readily into the end grain of lumber and can prevent water absorption into the end grain much longer than 1 year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="650" LastEditorUserId="962" LastEditDate="2015-08-31T23:44:00.797" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T23:44:00.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1720" CreationDate="2015-08-31T14:26:24.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Power to the blade has to do with motor efficiency. Motors are carefully designed to be efficient as possible. But, if you start asking for more amps than your circuit can provide, the voltage to the motor drops below the design point, efficiency goes down, and power to the blade drops. This can result in stalling ( very bad for the motor ) or breakers tripping.&#xA;Because of this, if you have 14 gauge wiring, you might actually get better cutting with a 1.5 hp motor than with a 2.0. I hope this makes this clear. &#xA;BTW I tried cutting some 2&quot; hard maple on my new setup, and thought the piece had slipped in the mitre gauge and was not being cut ... But it was going through the saw like it was nothing. Pretty cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1090" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T14:26:24.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2308" CreationDate="2015-08-31T16:35:55.317" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you have tracks available I would suggest making a crosscutting sled, probably the most basic of table saw jigs/appliances. Large piece of plywood  or MDF for the base, scrap of plywood or suitable plastic for the runner (or buy commercial track material), a few additional scraps of ply for the fences and that's all the material you need. The width of material you can saw is only limited by the front-to-back measurement of the sled so size it as generously as your tablesaw's bed will allow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it would be nice if the whole thing ends up entirely square, you actually don't have to be particularly careful about many aspects of the construction. The runner doesn't need to be square to the leading or trailing edges of the ply base, the two main 'fences' (braces more accurately) fore and aft don't need to be perfectly parallel, even the ply base itself doesn't have to be square. The reason being that &lt;em&gt;none&lt;/em&gt; of these parts or edges are used as references in the finished appliance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one &lt;em&gt;and only&lt;/em&gt; thing that needs to be attached accurately is the fence the workpieces will ride against, this must be square to the saw kerf created when you first run the sled through the saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1OSRa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1OSRa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Crosscut sled&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the construction sequence:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nail or screw your runner to your plywood base, approximately square or dead-on square doesn't matter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flip it over and attach your front and rear braces, again approximately square is good enough. Glue these on, so that you don't have to worry about the placement of nails or screws in relation to the saw kerf. See note 1.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After the glue has hardened fit the runner into its slot and run the sled through the table saw with the blade raised. See note 2.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now is the one and only time you need to be accurate — the actual reference fence is now attached, making sure it is perfectly square to the sawn kerf. Use a large square &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3O2Pb.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;you know to be true&lt;/a&gt;, or rely on the 3-4-5 rule to ensure it is at a perfect 90.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run once more through the saw and your sled is ready to use.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note 1&lt;/strong&gt;: braces need to be high enough that they exceed the maximum thickness of material you expect to cut; if you do a cut with the blade raised higher than this you'll saw the sled into two pieces!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note 2&lt;/strong&gt;: the saw should be fitted with the same blade you expect to use the sled with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T16:35:55.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2314" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2316" CreationDate="2015-08-31T17:40:16.570" Score="6" ViewCount="1874" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm attempting to create a pentagon from 3/4in-thick pine boards, which will become part of a slightly odd shelving unit. Of the five angles, two are 90 degrees and I'm planning to use dowels and glue to connect them. The remaining angles are between 110 and 140 degrees, and I'm looking for some advice how to best join them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just glue? At those angles, I'm not sure the dowels will do much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, any suggestions how to fixate the parts while the glue is solidifying?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update per request: Here's a rough drawing. The plan is to add the middle board after the rest is complete. (And before you ask, the contraption is going to be 1) installed in a nook, 2) screwed to the wall on the left, 3) have a similar, smaller sibling, but flipped horizontally, 4) the sibling will rests on top of the upper-right board with a parallel board on its own, and 5) the sibling will be screwed to the right wall of the nook.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cpe8y.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cpe8y.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1095" LastEditorUserId="1095" LastEditDate="2015-09-04T23:24:27.853" LastActivityDate="2015-09-04T23:24:27.853" Title="Joints for a 3/4in-thick pentagon" Tags="|joinery|glue|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2314" CreationDate="2015-08-31T17:59:08.903" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;My biscuit joiner is able to cut slots at angles which could work for this.  Also, depending on the size, the glue might be more than enough to keep everything together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as keeping it all together, I've used &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.etrailer.com/static/images/pics/E/M/EM34415_2_250.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ratchet straps/tie downs&lt;/a&gt; to hold odd-shaped things together for gluing.  My sister had a (purposely) odd-shaped dresser with no place for a clamp to hold the broken piece at the correct angle.  The ratchet strap not only was able to hold it at the right angle, it didn't mar the wood either!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-09-03T19:59:09.923" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T19:59:09.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2314" CreationDate="2015-08-31T18:19:17.953" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm looking for some advice how to best join them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will depend mostly on how much load you expect to put on the shelf and how you are mounting the shelf to the wall (if this is a freestanding shelf, don't worry about the mounting part).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simplest means would be to to a regular blued butt joint at your angles.  This is as easy as it sounds - just glue the two faces, press, and wait.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second would be to spline the angle.  There are two ways to do this: one with the spline parallel to the width of the joint&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FyzNd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FyzNd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;spline 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/BigRedKnothead/blog/38806&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;LumberJocks&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and the other with the splines (also called &quot;keys&quot;) across the joint&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bEVIT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bEVIT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1135/should-i-use-one-large-spline-or-multiple-smaller-ones-for-a-miter-joint&quot;&gt;another WW Question&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At those angles, I'm not sure the dowels will do much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are correct.  Not only will the dowels not do much at weird angles, forming the joint will be an exercise in confusion and frustration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also, any suggestions how to fixate the parts while the glue is solidifying?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One simple way to glue weird miters is to wrap the outside of the piece in masking tape and just &quot;roll it up.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3h623.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3h623.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;masking tape&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://legacy.woodshopdemos.com/decbx-4.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;WorkshopDemos.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, one could also glue sacrificial clamping blocks to the outer faces such that the faces of the clamping blocks are parallel.  Then, the clamps have a straight path to clamp to and will bring the pieces together more easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BrMhk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BrMhk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodworking.com/ww/Article/Gluing-and-Clamping-8828.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Woodworking.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-08-31T18:58:47.110" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T18:58:47.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2314" CreationDate="2015-08-31T18:46:14.583" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Just glue? At those angles, I'm not sure the dowels will do much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm imagining the construction properly these would still be end grain to end grain joints, which is the weakest glue-only joint. In the right circumstances that can actually be strong enough, but ideally it should be reinforced in some way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So dowels would do a lot here if you wanted to go that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also, any suggestions how to fixate the parts while the glue is solidifying?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a big fan of the tape method already suggested by grfrazee, when done right it works really well. Another demo of it &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/joinery/a-better-way-to-glue-up-boxes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here on Popular Woodworking&lt;/a&gt;, with video and stills images.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T18:46:14.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2318" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-31T20:17:27.680" Score="9" ViewCount="137" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to build some outdoor furniture and I happen to have a lot of hard maple on-hand.  While I also have a bit of cedar, I dislike how easily it scratches and dents.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When reading up on maple, its durability is listed as poor and people seem to comment that it's easily susceptible to bugs and fungus.  I happened to just finish watching Marc Spagnuolo's (The Wood Whisperer) video on his &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/outdoor-sitting-bench/?mode=posts&amp;amp;apt=video&quot;&gt;outdoor bench&lt;/a&gt; where he uses African Mahogany which is has a listed durability of 'fair' (versus cedar which is 'excellent').  As part of finishing this project, he uses clear penetrating epoxy sealer (Smith's EPES) followed by spar varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this finishing schedule enough to mitigate the poor durability of a wood like maple?  Are there other finishes that can be used to protect a non-durable wood in the outdoor elements?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T08:55:10.567" Title="Can low durability be mitigated with specific finishes?" Tags="|finishing|wood-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2319" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2322" CreationDate="2015-08-31T21:46:16.970" Score="7" ViewCount="1342" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to woodworking and been having lots of issues with the dust being spread all over my single door garage. I mainly use a &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CNC enclosed in a box.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Belt sander&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;9&quot; cheap Bandsaw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A benchtop jointer. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been using a 2000 watt vacuum cleaner (not a shop vac) which was ok until I started using the bandsaw and jointer more after which things started to get messy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am planning on buying a 3/4 HP dust collector and was wondering if it can handle the chips and dust from the bandsaw/jointer provided that it will be hooked to one of them directly? I always wear a dust mask and going to upgrade to a respirator, would that be enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1058" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-09-01T12:50:50.523" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T21:18:59.657" Title="3/4 HP dust collector for a single tool (Bandsaw or jointer)" Tags="|sawdust|dust-collection|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2318" CreationDate="2015-09-01T08:55:10.567" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can low durability be mitigated with specific finishes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short answer: yes, absolutely. Think of the long service life of softwoods used outdoors when treated with wood preservatives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is this finishing schedule enough to mitigate the poor durability of a wood like maple? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd imagine it will make a significant difference. Epoxy is an extremely effective water barrier, coupled with a continuous film of spar varnish &lt;em&gt;liquid&lt;/em&gt; water is going to have a very hard time getting to the wood (note this won't prevent water vapour transfer, although it will slow it significantly). Without water getting to the wood decay is basically prevented I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are there other finishes that can be used to protect a non-durable wood in the outdoor elements?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make your own penetrating wood finish for outdoor applications, where you add in ingredients (e.g. metal salts) to help prevent decay and/or fungal attack. In the old days arsenic or lead compounds were used for this both commercially and in homemade recipes; because of the potential toxicity issues with these I won't mention any specifics, despite their effectiveness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the modern world where we're a little more conscious of the risk of poisoning ourselves at home one of the simplest and most effective additives you could use is borax, which also prevents attack by termites and other boring insects. In the US at least this is widely and inexpensively available, sold as a laundry aid. &lt;strong&gt;Note for European readers&lt;/strong&gt;: recent changes in EU regulations have made borax much more difficult to get here, it may now be impossible for non-commercial buyers to purchase in dry form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to being made into a solution with water and just painted on the raw wood as you would with any conventional wood preservative, borax can be brought into solution in oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I understand the process you heat the oil gently (use a double boiler if necessary to prevent the oil getting to higher than 100°C / 212°F) and spoon in borax, stir to dissolve and repeat until no more will be absorbed by the oil and there's a slight gritty residue left at the bottom of the container. Longer heating may see more dissolved over time so that's worth testing out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The resulting borax-infused oil can be used directly as a wood finish or blended with a varnish to make a DIY version of &quot;teak oil&quot;, or with a natural wood resin (e.g. pine tar) which itself has some preservative effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suitable oils for this would be any drying oil, principally boiled linseed oil or tung oil. Tung oil is reputed to give superior waterproofing but I've seen no direct comparisons of effectiveness. And if your plan is to blend the oil with a varnish then its superiority may be irrelevant as the resins in the varnish could provide all the required water-resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T08:55:10.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2052" CreationDate="2015-09-01T14:18:49.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, I have to stay away from working in hickory(allergy, go figure), so I've experimented with a few other woods. I have really enjoyed the few handles I've made from local maples. It tends to be exceedingly straight and clear grained. Other good choices (and also another bow materials) are lemon wood and yew. Although, be careful with the Yew dust, particularly the bark, as it contains a few nasty chemicals/toxins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with @Graphus entirely. Often, it will come down to the particular piece of wood in hand. The clearest, hardest poplar you come across will still probably beat out a twisted, knotty piece of Ash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T14:18:49.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2319" CreationDate="2015-09-01T14:27:41.083" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the tools you are talking about, yes it should work fairly well.  As keshlam pointed out, you would probably be just fine using a shop vac for these and handle everything just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The joiner would be the one to give you the most chips and any dust collector should be able to handle that.  Two of the big things that you would consider between a shop vac and a dust collector is what other tools are you considering getting in the future.  If you want a thickness planer, go with the dust collector, the shop vac gets filled up and clogged up way to fast to be really useful.  You might need a DC for a lathe as well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the Shop Vac is VERY loud.  I have a large dust collector and while it makes plenty of noise, the shop vac was worse, but part of the problem is the short hose keeps the shop vac close to where you are working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surprisingly the shop vac probably works better for the belt sander than a dust collector.  I've got a 'hood' I'll use with my DC and it helps keep the cloud down but still leaves a lot of dust to gather up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T14:27:41.083" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2319" CreationDate="2015-09-01T15:35:14.373" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing you might consider is getting a cyclone attachment for your current vacuum system.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=30282&amp;amp;cat=1,42401&amp;amp;ap=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lee Valley&lt;/a&gt; makes one that I haven't personally used, but it's similar to one that my dad made and uses in his shop.  Mostly I'm pasting the picture below for illustration purposes - all cyclone attachments work using the same principle.  Matthias Wandel &lt;a href=&quot;http://woodgears.ca/dust_collector/cyclone.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;builds a version&lt;/a&gt; in his video series as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cQm2B.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cQm2B.png&quot; alt=&quot;cyclone&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will greatly expand the capability of your vacuum to control the larger wood chips that are produced by a planer or jointer.  The cyclone keeps most of the debris from getting to your shop vacuum, hence prolonging filter life and time between emptying the bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@bowlturner does make a good point about the noise.  I usually have ear muffs on when the vacuum in my dad's shop is running, and he's looking to install a more permanent dust collection system when time/funds allow.  For a budget though, this system with the cyclone is hard to beat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-09-01T20:29:17.380" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T20:29:17.380" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2052" CreationDate="2015-09-01T16:03:09.193" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an overview:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider the type of stress the handle will be subjected to. Then the handle's best wood choice will be a function of resistance to the abuse normal use will inflict on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chisel handle: resist longitudinal stress from mallet blows. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Large crosscut saw handle: resist splitting from blade flexing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Axe handle, claw hammer handle: resist crushing and longitudinal shock (splitting)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long handled shovel - Resist the tendency of the retaining screw to break loose or split the tail of the handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, since no single species of local wood answers the call everywhere, traditionally there was no one best wood for handles. The long experience of others before us shows what works well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example - most older quality chisels, made in the USA, have hard maple handles.&#xA;Rakes and shovels usually had elm handles because of the helical grain. &#xA;Both hickory and ash were used for axes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your osage orange example is what I meant by local woods in the  past.&#xA;It was not easily available in New York State, for example.  I live in Southwest desert and it is available here today. Doesn't grow here. 40 years ago I could not buy it anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1019" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T16:03:09.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2319" CreationDate="2015-09-01T20:27:58.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a shop vac in my garage. I use it with my circular saw, band saw, router, jointer, and sanders. After I added a cyclone to it, I lost a lot of the suction power. I need to get either a shop vac with a higher CFM or go to DC system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, a couple of people have mentioned the noise level of the shop vac. That is definitely a concern that I have. I always wear ear protection while my shop vac is running. I was getting ready to build a sound proof box for my shop vac though. That is supposed to drop the sound level down 20-30 decibels. You should be able to carry on a normal conversation at that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="966" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T20:27:58.817" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2326" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2328" CreationDate="2015-09-01T21:22:38.217" Score="8" ViewCount="1870" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got those wide and thick Maple boards that I'd like to use to make end grain cutting boards with end grain Walnut and Jarrah inlay. The main body will be made up of Maple. The normal process of creating an end grain cutting board that I've seen so far is done by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ripping the board into strips.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;gluing the faces together.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cross cutting to the target thickness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;gluing the edges together. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this process mandatory or cosmetic? Since the main body is made up of a single type of wood, can I just cross cut the board into strips with the thickness I am after and glue the faces together? My main target it to decorate it with an inlay while having the advantages of an end grain cutting board? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1058" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T01:49:15.527" Title="Single glue-up for an end grain cutting board" Tags="|end-grain|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2319" CreationDate="2015-09-02T02:29:08.547" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: yes, a 3/4 HP dust collector hooked directly to a bandsaw or small jointer can be adequate, but there are several factors involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Horsepower is a very rough estimation of a machine's capability. Impeller size, inlet size, filter efficiency (which often involves considering type and surface area), and real-world vs. advertised specs are also important factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to know whether a given dust collector will be adequate for a given machine, you should start by looking at two numbers: CFM and static pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, one 3/4 HP dust collector is advertised as pulling 650 CFM, but its static pressure is not listed in the specs, and the advertised specs are often exaggerated.  Even though a dust collector may advertise 650 CFM, it may only deliver 500 CFM directly at the dust port. Adding 10 feet of flex hose may degrade the performance below 350 CFM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Various types of tools have known baseline requirements for adequate dust collection, measured in CFM (cubic feet per minute). If the dust collector does &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; meet this requirement (or if it barely meets it), move on, because you'll never be satisfied with its performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Static pressure becomes important when you start factoring in the connection between your dust collector and your tool. Static pressure directly impacts the dust collector's ability to overcome resistance as the air travels through a pipe or hose. Longer runs, bends, corrugated or ribbed (as opposed to smooth) internal walls of your hose or pipe, and smaller-diameter hose/pipe are all detrimental to airflow, and the more of these issues you have to deal with, the more static pressure you need to produce in order to overcome them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;WOOD Magazine has a nice &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/dust-collection/figure-dust-collection-needs/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; that summarizes the common airflow requirements to capture dust from various types of machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/INcyb.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/INcyb.gif&quot; alt=&quot;WOOD Magazine table: CFM requirements for various tools&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of specific interest to you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jointer, up to 6&quot;: 350 CFM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bandsaw: 350 CFM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I mentioned earlier, the diameter of your dust collection hose or pipe produces a loss of static pressure, and the aforementioned WOOD article has a table summarizing air volume through hoses of various diameter at a speed of 4000 FPM (feet per minute), the speed at which the airflow will keep the dust particles and chips suspended in the air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KosWC.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KosWC.gif&quot; alt=&quot;WOOD Magazine: duct size and CFM table&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your most demanding tool requires 350 CFM and a 3/4 HP dust collector produces 650 CFM, you use a short run (less than 10 feet) of 4&quot; or 5&quot; hose or pipe. Keep in mind that any bends in the line, and even using flex hose vs. straight smooth rigid ducting, will reduce the effective CFM--so you should use as short and straight a hose as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a more in-depth overview of calculating dust collection requirements, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/768/what-advantages-does-a-dust-collector-have-over-a-shop-vac/773#773&quot;&gt;What advantages does a dust collector have over a shop vac?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I always wear a dust mask and going to upgrade to a respirator, would that be enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A dust collector's primary purpose is to prevent your tool(s) from clogging up with dust and chips. Removing dust from the air is secondary, and no dust collector can capture 100% of dust particles. Regardless of your dust collector, you ideally should wear a well-fitted P100 or equivalent respirator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T21:18:59.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2326" CreationDate="2015-09-02T08:15:34.390" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is this process mandatory or cosmetic? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well for that style of board it's mandatory for the cosmetics :-) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from allowing smaller offcuts to be used up, the standard board construction using small blocks of wood does have a structural reason: each glue joint make the board stronger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there's no technical reason you have to make an end-grain board &lt;em&gt;exclusively&lt;/em&gt; out of little blocks, rather than longer pieces showing end grain. However, because end grain strips are inherently breakable across the grain you need to be concerned about their length and how they're aligned. And the final thickness of your cutting board is obviously a significant factor here too, a 25mm / 1&quot; offcut from the end of a board is weak enough that it can easily be snapped in half using the fingers, while a 2&quot; offcut from the same board would be much stronger. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Since the main body is made up of a single type of wood, can I just cross cut the board into strips with the thickness I am after and glue the faces together? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definitive yes, with caveats. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using longer strips I think you have to stagger the joints (e.g. using 'running bond' pattern) for sufficient strength, as in these examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JZxsg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JZxsg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Offset joints in cutting boards&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T08:15:34.390" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2329" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2330" CreationDate="2015-09-02T21:10:01.253" Score="9" ViewCount="519" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in the process of creating an end grain cutting board which is made up of Maple only, but would like to decorate it by inlaying other types of wood into it (Walnut for example). The cutting board size is 18&quot; by 12&quot; and 1.2&quot; thick, and the inlay will be near the a corner of the board with a size of 5&quot; by 5&quot; and .35&quot; deep. Would having this inlay affect the structural integrity of the board? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am doing the inlay by using the v-inlay method as described in the image below at and angle of 45 degrees which most probably means that the flat base of the inlay wont be touching the board, just the edges:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ew9lC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;inlay&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1058" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2019-02-27T08:22:12.327" LastActivityDate="2019-02-27T08:22:12.327" Title="Would an inlay affect the structure of an end grain cutting board?" Tags="|inlay|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2329" CreationDate="2015-09-02T21:20:09.977" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would having this inlay affect the structural integrity of the board? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't have thought so judging from the size you indicate. It will locally affect the strength, but not enough to be a major factor I would have thought (in light of the following).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;which most probably means that the flat base of the inlay wont be touching the board, just the edges:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a problem I think. The edges of both the inlay and the rebate are end grain, and joints of end grain to end grain are the weakest glue joint. I would highly recommend laying a bed of epoxy underneath the inlay, so that it basically fills the void underneath. Not only will this &lt;em&gt;hugely&lt;/em&gt; improve the bond to the inlay it will add strength to that part of the board as well so you get a two-for-one benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T21:20:09.977" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2267" CreationDate="2015-09-02T22:55:31.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Live centers have bearings..which could could run out of center..for metal turning purposes this would not be an accurate enough center to use if you were dealing in tenths...ie bearing diameters etc.. .0001 tolerances..but if its a quality enough one and you had high rpms you would not have much choice then..&#xA;dead centers..even with grease..and a high enough rpm and friction could actually weld the metal to the center..or in the case of wood start it on fire or something I would think..&#xA;I was a machinist not a woodworker..but its the same tool and I would think these kind of issues would still apply..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1101" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T22:55:31.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1802" CreationDate="2015-09-03T04:02:58.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you compared the holes in the center of each blade?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the spindle on the saw is not level or is bent or the threads or washer are&#xA;worn, that could be the source of the roughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1102" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-09-03T15:14:00.817" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T15:14:00.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2308" CreationDate="2015-09-04T06:43:31.830" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UbG-n--LFgQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This YouTube video&lt;/a&gt; depicts an extremely clever method for setting a right angle when making a cross-cut sled.  It is a so-called five-cut method that depends on precision thickness readings and feeler gauges plus a little arithmetic. It does not rely upon the use of an existing right angle square or triangle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The video shows the entire process for making a &quot;perfect sled&quot; from making and sizing the miter slot runners to making and attaching blade guards &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was totally enthralled by the video and watched for the full thirty-seven minutes without realizing the passage of time. (Probably a slow day.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the OP asked for how to make a right angle, I'll attempt to describe the method:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dRszf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dRszf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;original drawings and explanation&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ISUTm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ISUTm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The measurement process shown below is different from the method shown in the video.  Instead of using a micrometer and feeler gauges, you need no more than a ruler or a tape measure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uO0tr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uO0tr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The video suggests that to get a more accurate right angle, you can repeat the process, however if the your original placement of the fence is within about 2 degrees of exact (you can eyeball it to that accuracy) you will gain no appreciable increase of precision by doing so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-01-25T23:02:05.350" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T23:02:05.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2329" CreationDate="2015-09-04T12:39:19.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't think the strength at all. What will happen is the inlay will pop out. Problem is its a cutting board and you have to worry about food contaminated from it. Epoxy is a +1 from me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1106" LastActivityDate="2015-09-04T12:39:19.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2335" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2336" CreationDate="2015-09-05T08:28:37.687" Score="7" ViewCount="18564" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see people using brushes (hair or foam) to spread glue. This is not something I have seen in real life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without experimenting I have a feeling that spreading glue with a brush might be a good idea, but when the gluing setup is finished and one has time to clean the brush it is already set. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So every such gluing would cost a brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can of course use a piece of wood or my fingers but the question is: Is the brush wasted if used for gluing? If not, how it is cleaned (water of course)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-09-06T01:48:10.657" LastActivityDate="2017-08-24T03:50:55.220" Title="How to clean glue brushes" Tags="|glue|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2335" CreationDate="2015-09-05T17:03:13.713" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many of the brushes you see people use online to spread glue &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; actually be disposable. The type I'm thinking of are something like 50c each, and although they can be cleaned and reused they're cheap enough that probably the majority of users are comfortable using each brush once and discarding it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;but when the gluing setup is finished and one has time to clean the brush it is already set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most PVA-type glues have an 'open' time of between 20 minutes and about an hour, depending on local conditions. Even if you're doing a complex glue-up and you can't leave the work to get the brush to a sink for cleaning you could have a jar of water near the workbench to dunk brushes into to stop them from drying out until you've finished clamping up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you get to rinsing out the brush it's advisable to use warm water, it really makes quite a bit of difference compared to using cold water; so where available use warm water. After thorough rinsing, washing the brush with soap and water can help remove the last traces of glue although this isn't absolutely needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you can use brushes of nearly any kind to apply glue I would recommend you confine yourself to those with synthetic bristles. Synthetic brushes are generally stiffer and easier to control (nothing is worse than trying to spread glue accurately on a joint face using a very soft and bendy brush, I speak from experience!) and their bristles are more forgiving of trace amounts of glue being left in them from incomplete rinsing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to paintbrushes silicone rubber brushes (intended for basting meats or glazing pastry) are used by some woodworkers to apply glue. Although these are great in that hardened glue doesn't stick to them and it can just be peeled off the next day, I don't like them because they're too floppy. But silicone rubber spatulas on the other hand are well worth experimenting with as glue spreaders, they work brilliantly IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-09-05T17:03:13.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2337" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-05T19:13:41.953" Score="4" ViewCount="1369" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is considered the strongest knockdown joint when putting together a loft bed? I'd like to build a very sturdy and kid resistant loft bed for my son. If anyone knows of a really nice plan I can adapt please let me know that as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1108" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-01-04T14:23:51.750" LastActivityDate="2022-01-04T14:23:51.750" Title="Best knockdown joint for loft bed?" Tags="|joinery|knockdown|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2338" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2340" CreationDate="2015-09-06T01:57:16.010" Score="7" ViewCount="6664" Body="&lt;p&gt;As most of the regulars know I work with a lot of whitewoods. Pines mostly that come from pallets and what not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently made a workbench from an old door but it was hollow inside so I plan on moving it to a lower level and replacing the top with something more solid. Given my availability of 2x4's it would be really easy for me to laminate those and plane the top to make a nice bench top. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are enough people on the &quot;pine /softwoods are terrible for this&quot; bandwagon but I found a &lt;a href=&quot;https://paulsellers.com/2013/04/softwood-benchtops-work-great/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;blog post from Paul Sellers&lt;/a&gt; that comes to their defence for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have made benches in the US from every species of softwood with not issues of serviceability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a good question for here would be are softwoods suitable or practicable for use as bench tops? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-09-06T15:47:39.127" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T12:06:19.747" Title="Using softwoods for bench tops" Tags="|workbench|strength|softwood|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2338" CreationDate="2015-09-06T03:12:19.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interesting question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are certainly a lot of designs for benches which use medium density fiberboard as their tops (with solid wood wrapped around the edge for durability).. The idea seems to be that it works well enough, and is cheap to replace if necessary. I would think a pine top would be no worse, but possibly not better. MDF has the advantage of being flat as it comes from the factory and staying flat in use, while with any assembled top you have have to flatten it yourself after gluing it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do seem to remember someone at one of the respected woodworking schools saying that softwood benches had held up perfectly adequately in the classroom for years .. but I'd have trouble digging that citation out of the pile o' backissues, so don't take my word for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's certainly something to be said for just producing a new benchtop if you decide you need one. And unless you're building a leg vise, it isn't clear the support structure needs to be anything fancy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also the question of just how critical a perfectly flat bench is. It does help to have a flat reference surface, but that doesn't necessarily have to be the workbench...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-09-06T03:12:19.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2338" CreationDate="2015-09-06T08:55:28.457" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So a good question for here would be are softwoods suitable or practicable for use as bench tops? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. Obviously softwoods are generally fairly soft and a bench made from softwood is going to be more prone to denting than one made of e.g. hard maple (a very popular choice in the US) but this could actually be considered a &lt;em&gt;desirable&lt;/em&gt; trait rather than a failing. When woodworking on any very hard table care must be exercised not to accidentally mar the workpiece, especially when doing any work in softwoods or MDF. While with a softwood bench it is the bench that is likely to take the brunt of the damage if the workpiece is dropped on it or bumped against an edge, you could argue this is actually what you want. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That issue aside, the view is expressed that a softwood benchtop lacks the necessary toughness or resilience to take heavy use, particularly over a long service life. While it's not an exact parallel some indication that this view is too limited is given by farmhouse tables from Britain, Ireland and the Continent. These were very commonly built from pine and the fact that they often endured immensely long service lives (a century or greater) shows that softwoods can withstand sustained use over many years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And just to show that this isn't merely an intellectual exercise, some vintage and antique softwood benches to prove the point conclusively:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4hQAo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4hQAo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pine workbench 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bR2S4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bR2S4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pine workbench 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nlHXj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nlHXj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pine workbench 3&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GGwXx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GGwXx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pine workbench 4&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-09-06T08:55:28.457" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2338" CreationDate="2015-09-06T13:02:42.697" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see why not.  Some of it depends on what kind of abuse you expect it to take and if you expect it to stay 'pretty'.  One of my bench tops I made out of 2x6's left over from building the garage.  I ran them through the joiner and planner to square them up and it is a very solid bench that can take a lot of abuse.  It also happens to be significantly cheaper than using hardwoods to do a similar thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I poke fun at the 'cheap' woods often, but I know they really can be useful for more than just building walls.  I know most of us woodworkers would love a solid hardwood topped bench but the hardwood is much more of a 'want' than a 'need'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-09-06T13:02:42.697" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2335" CreationDate="2015-09-06T18:52:32.640" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I very often use cheap (can't get much cheaper than Harbor Freight) acid brushes to spread glue. If the glue happens to be a polyurethane glue, the brush is considered to be disposable - no great cost. If the glue is a PVA glue instead, I'm so cheap that I drop my brushes into a little copper pot (nothing special about copper, it's just what I happen to have) half-full of water. Every couple of days, I pull my glue brushes out &amp;amp; shake the water out of them, then rinse out my little copper pot. The brushes are immediately ready for the next job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1110" LastActivityDate="2015-09-06T18:52:32.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2343" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-06T20:58:44.750" Score="7" ViewCount="1379" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some rough-sawn lumber and would like to make it flat and square. I don't have a planer yet so I was wondering if I can do it using a jointer and a bandsaw only? I've got the following types/sizes of timber:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jarrah : 6 by 4 inches&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rimu: 4 by 4 inches&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maple: 6 by 2 inches&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current process is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;plane one face and two edges using the jointer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;plane the second face using a hand plane.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process that I am thinking of following is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;plane one face and two edges using the jointer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cut a thin layer from the second face on the bandsaw to try to make it square with the edges.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pass the second face on the jointer to make it flat and remove the bandsaw blade marks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't use the resulting wood for anything other than boxes and cutting boards so I am not too worried about it being a 99% square at this stage, just good enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1058" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-09-09T15:33:40.217" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T11:15:30.357" Title="Flattening a board using a jointer and a bandsaw" Tags="|jointer|band-saw|milling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2343" CreationDate="2015-09-07T01:55:58.753" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;That process would certainly work, although if you want better results, you might consider a slightly different method that requires no bandsaw work at all:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Face-joint one face. Edge-joint one edge. Now glue some tiny wooden shims (no more than three, with none on the thickest corner) onto the remaining rough face to bring it to the desired thickness. Plane the shims as necessary so that the shimmed thickness of one side equals the shimmed thickness of the other side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now with the jointer turned off, set it for a 1/32&quot; depth of cut. Rest the leading tip of your board on the outfeed table, just beyond the cutterhead. Turn the jointer on and make as many passes as are necessary to bring at least 30% of the board's length to a smooth surface. Now turn off the jointer and flip the board end-for-end and repeat that process until the second face is entirely flat and square to the jointed edge (although not perfectly square to the ends).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Expect the board to be tapered slightly from one end to the other end. If you find that to be the case, repeat the above procedure, with the thinnest end resting on the outfeed table when you start the jointer. Every time you do that, the jointer will counter the taper of the board. You can, if you like, intentionally cut a radical taper onto a board using only a jointer and that method... but this time you're using it to remove a taper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repeat this process, more or less, with the remaining edge to bring it dead-parallel to the first edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Working this way, you can bring a board to an astoundingly fine trueness without the use of a thickness planer. You're limited to the size of your cutterhead, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1110" LastEditorUserId="1110" LastEditDate="2015-09-07T02:33:20.910" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T02:33:20.910" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="277" CreationDate="2015-09-07T03:01:46.833" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it were my choice to make... let me put it this way: I've actually spent a little time with a handheld power planer upside-down in a jig as a &quot;micro jointer&quot;. I've come a long way, since I now have two full-production jointers (one 1HP 6&quot;, and one 2HP 8&quot; antique) in my shop. I'd put that jointer to use and make the best of it while you save up for one of the Big Boys. It hardly has any rust on it, less than my jointers grow over one winter/spring!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jointing long rough crooked workpieces on that one should be expected to be tedious because of the short tables, but it can certainly still be done - it's not like long tables make something possible that's impossible with shorter tables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But... when you finally break over and buy a really large jointer, you'll really appreciate it after having worked with that one. THEN you can think about retiring it or passing it along to the next person who's shy one jointer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean it up, derust it where you need to, sharpen the knives, wax the tables &amp;amp; cutterhead with pastewax, and tune it up as if your life depended upon it. When it's well tuned, it won't vex you much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1110" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T03:01:46.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1641" CreationDate="2015-09-07T03:24:01.047" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My rule of thumb (still got both of mine, knock on wood) is... when the blade gets rewelded about the fourth time, it's probably not going to get welded again; by that time, the back has grown too brittle and it's probably lost some teeth. Until that point, reweld &amp;amp; resharpen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never had a blade breakage that I could trace back to overtensioning, although I'm always just a bit tender with tensioning anyway - my first bandsaw had a honeycombed cast-aluminum body, and &quot;proper&quot; tension was spooky with it - it felt like the saw's body might give way at any time. That was an illusion, of course, but it taught me not to overtension. Lots of bandsaw blades (TimberWolf springs to mind) want very little tension - only enough to prevent the blade from fluttering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1110" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T03:24:01.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2347" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2348" CreationDate="2015-09-07T13:08:17.653" Score="6" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;A small chip came off the surface of my piece when I was removing it from the rough stock. (I foolishly removed the piece, which I had just finished CNC'ing, from its rough stock by pressing it, rather than carefully cutting the tabs away - never again!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a photo of the piece before the repair (and before the finish was applied) - the chip is on the right:&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lQxaW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lQxaW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;chip missing from right-hand side (no finish applied yet)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided to try to repair it with a bit of wood glue, which worked OK. However, the finish on the chip is noticeably different from the finish of the rest of the piece, even though both are finished with the same material (mineral oil).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a close-up of the chip as it's being glued - I sanded down the excess that was protruding:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LD3Cv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LD3Cv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;chip repair while gluing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here's how it all ended up looking when sanded and finished - note the chip at the very bottom is a distinctly different color:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/37RQf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/37RQf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;finished piece, noticeable chip&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What should I have done to get the chip to match the piece?&lt;/strong&gt; I was thinking of rubbing the chip's top surface briefly with mineral oil before the gluing, but I was worried that might weaken the bond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="292" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T13:51:24.217" Title="How to repair a chip when one piece is already partially finished?" Tags="|finishing|glue|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2347" CreationDate="2015-09-07T13:42:14.930" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What should I have done to get the chip to match the piece? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best fix hands-down for something like this is to glue the chip back into place. Assuming the chip can be located of course. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is important however to strive not to get glue onto the surface of the chip as you're glueing it back in, as it leads to the classic problem associated with glue-contaminated wood when it comes time to finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I was thinking of rubbing the chip's top surface briefly with mineral oil before the gluing, but I was worried that might weaken the bond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You were right to be worried, &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; oil contamination of glueing surfaces severely compromises the bond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where using the original chip is not possible (the chip can't be found or it has been damaged so it won't neatly slot into place any longer) glueing in a piece of the same species would be next best, striving to get a good grain match to the wood in that location. Where the divot in the wood is an irregular shape it can be difficult to get a good edge on a patch so often it's advisable to create a patch with a regular shape (a diamond with the long dimension pointing along the grain is often recommended) and then chiselling out wood to match that. In this case you'd just use a triangle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you must use a filler probably the best filler is one made from sanding dust and glue. Now this tip is very common and often in the next breath the person recommending it will say it gives a good colour match*, but generally it does &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; make a good colour match to the surrounding wood (almost invariably it's darker) and it doesn't stain or finish well (almost invariably ending up lighter). However this can work much better than it normally does: if hide glue is used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Some people recommending the wood dust + glue tick may be using hide glue and are just unaware that it makes such a big difference in the outcome, compared to using regular PVA-type wood glues, epoxy or superglue, so they don't know to specify that that is the adhesive they're using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2015-09-07T13:51:24.217" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T13:51:24.217" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2349" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-08T02:04:29.090" Score="9" ViewCount="14449" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making my own wooden board game. The game pieces have ball-shaped bases. I want them to move around the board and rest in small indentations. Something like this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTM0NVgxNjAw/z/t4YAAOSwNSxVVemf/$_57.JPG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTM0NVgxNjAw/z/t4YAAOSwNSxVVemf/$_57.JPG&quot; alt=&quot;Board with recesses&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of tools and techniques should I use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Kathallia" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:50.310" LastActivityDate="2022-12-09T13:52:26.683" Title="Making a small indent/crevice/depression for a ball" Tags="|technique|tools|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2349" CreationDate="2015-09-08T03:45:51.407" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are various ball-end cutters available, but balls or ball-shapes also fit into cylindrical or conical holes (and cylindrical holes with flat or conical bottoms) more easily achieved with a &quot;normal&quot; twist drill bit, a center drill,  or a countersink. Depends what you want, or how much function is important .vs. the way one or the other looks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will want a drill press (or a CNC Router) to maintain consistent depth (the router might also maintain spacing for you.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3334" OwnerDisplayName="Ecnerwal" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T03:45:51.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2349" CreationDate="2015-09-08T05:07:21.177" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The usual way to do this I think would be to use the correct bit in a router, but it could also be done using a suitable cutter chucked up in a drill. If using a drill ideally it will be in a drill stand for accuracy and repeatability, or a drill press will be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Round-nosed router bit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aXPSl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aXPSl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Round-nosed router bits&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/katana_bits10.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;'Rotary file' or burr for drills:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hffYj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hffYj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cylindrical round nose burr&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;[&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kaufmanco.com/CatSearch/6745/Carbide-Burrs&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a little unconventional but an alternative if using a drill or drill press is to use a ball-headed grinding bit. I use one of these myself on very splinter-prone woods to form a countersink for screw heads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OrrR3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OrrR3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ball grinding bits x2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above image shows the diamond-coated and abrasive stone versions. These will grind wood approximately equally but in general you'll get better durability from the first type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T05:07:21.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2349" CreationDate="2015-09-08T12:04:07.303" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd use a forstner drill bit sized smaller than the game balls in a drill press.  This will leave a flat bottom hole with a slight pilot hole in the center but I think that would be OK for your intentions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drill press should have some sort of mechanism to control the depth.  If it doesn't, you could have your table low enough so the stroke of the drill press completes at the appropriate hole depth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used this method to make a marble &quot;game&quot; for my children.  Each child starts with three marbles on a board, throughout the course of the day if they misbehave they lose a marble.  At the end of they day the need to have one marble to &quot;pay&quot; for dessert.  It's a lot of fun for me, I'm not sure they like it too much...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1112" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-09-08T13:08:11.007" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T13:08:11.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2338" CreationDate="2015-09-08T19:35:50.990" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Janka hardness test is useful for considering surface material for a bench top that gets pounded and prodded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Larch is a softwood with a Janka hardness of ~1200. This is higher (higher = harder) than English oak, for example.   Whitewood - the lumber industry designation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whitewood is spruce, douglas fir, hemlock, pine and several other &#xA;species of timber. Used in domestic woodwork that will not be seen when the project is complete. It doesn't usually grade very high -- #2 common with a small amount of #1.  It typically has staining problems, too. ( due to compression wood)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Janka numbers --&#xA;spruce spp.  480 - 520&#xA;doug fir  660 - 710&#xA;hemlock   500 - 680 &#xA;pine varies all over the place -&#xA;Southern yellow (&quot;whitewood&quot; quality in the Southern US) 860&#xA;sugar pine - 380&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another point - implied in your question - lumber cost&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I buy green wood from folks who run small mills.  Log run (one log) for 10/4 pine bucked to 8'-10' goes for 30% of the cost of big box whitewood. 30% grades #1.  Downside - you need a truck, you need to sticker and dry the wood properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1019" LastEditorUserId="1019" LastEditDate="2015-09-08T19:41:53.883" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T19:41:53.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2354" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2355" CreationDate="2015-09-08T23:47:49.253" Score="7" ViewCount="7756" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently finished an oak butcherblock desk with mineral oil. While the surface looks great, I just learned about the difference between non-drying oils and drying oils, and I'm worried the desk will forever leave oil stains on my papers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could I refinish it by simply applying a drying oil (tung or linseed) over the mineral oil? Or would I need to completely sand off the layer of wood that soaked up the mineral oil before refinishing it? Any other ways I could salvage the situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: This is an office desk and does not need to be food safe, I chose the butcherblock &amp;amp; mineral oil combination based on looks alone.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1115" LastEditorUserId="1115" LastEditDate="2015-09-09T02:05:55.027" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T14:52:15.053" Title="What to do with a mineral-oil finished desktop" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2354" CreationDate="2015-09-09T09:00:47.427" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Could I refinish it by simply applying a drying oil (tung or linseed) over the mineral oil? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The standard answer to this on woodworking forums would be no, but in reality it might work acceptably. However, it's likely to compromise the ability of the drying oil to 'dry' properly, and this effect will be permanent, so it's safer to work to remove as much of the mineral oil as possible before applying any other finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since mineral oil, like all oils, is easily soluble in mineral spirits (UK: white spirit) it can be used to rinse a lot of the oil from the surface wood fibres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll want to use generous quantities of spirits and plenty of fresh cotton rags or paper towels to soak up liquid, perhaps doing three rinses and wipe-downs and then leaving the table to dry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next day check that the surface looks fairly uniformly de-greased and locally treat any areas that still look wetted with oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Safety note:&lt;/strong&gt; normally the fumes from spirits are not a big deal but we're not usually using them in quite this quantity so if possible do this job outside. If that's not feasible work in the most well-ventilated place possible; a garage with the door wide open would be good if available. Even after the rags/paper are bagged up and thrown away the table itself will give off a lot of vapour as it's drying out so you wouldn't want to leave it in any room you're using for another purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the cleaning is complete you can apply the drying oil of your choice. It won't hurt to thin an amount of the oil with spirits for the first couple of coats; a 1:1 dilution works well. My recommendation for the oil would be BLO over tung oil as it makes the wood look better faster, is easier to get and costs less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally you can also use varnish, or an oil/varnish blend, to provide better durability and water-resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidental point on wood removal:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Or would I need to completely sand off the layer of wood that soaked up the mineral oil before refinishing it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the average home woodworker sanding should really be the method of last resort to remove a layer of wood from a large flat area, it's generally only a good method where there is access to a wide-belt sander. When working at home if you're thinking of taking off a layer of wood your first thoughts should be &lt;em&gt;plane&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;scraper&lt;/em&gt;, both of which are faster and more efficient than sanding and produce much less fine airborne dust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T09:00:47.427" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2356" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-09T11:37:19.550" Score="6" ViewCount="35088" Body="&lt;p&gt;My husband and I have been building a farm table and we are oh-so-close to being done, but we are having issues in the final coats of polyurethane on the top. Here's a rundown:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We stained the wood with gel stain and put three coats of Minwax polyurethane on top. I used steel wool between coats and it looked pretty good, except we noticed brush marks in about three different spots. I think the brush didn't have a wet tip and the poly dragged or something... the rest of it looked great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We used steel wool again and did another coat of poly, this time with a foam brush. When it dried it left these weird spots, so we put on another coat with a foam brush... even more weird spots. (they almost looked like water marks?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This time we took 220 grit sandpaper and sanded the entire top of the table (with our hands... we didn't do enough research to learn that we should have used a sanding block... we're total newbies!) and put on a coat with the brush again. The coat itself looks great! But we can see scratches from the sandpaper under the poly :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen mixed advice online about how we should proceed.... do we need to sand down to get rid of the scratches (and probably sand out all of the stain and start over), or will using steel wool again and applying more coats of poly get rid of the scratches? I so do not want to sand down completely and start over, especially when we are this close to being done. But I also want our table to have a beautiful finish. Please help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T53Aa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T53Aa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Here is a closeup of one of the boards. You can the scratch marks by the light&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1117" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-09-10T13:01:02.567" LastActivityDate="2021-09-04T06:18:43.763" Title="How do I remove scratches between layers of polyurethane?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2338" CreationDate="2015-09-09T12:06:19.747" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think there is no problem doing so. Once it gets to beat up (if it does) it will be easy to plane down. One thing on my table that I wish was different is the hard wood on the tail vice piece. Not the piece on the jaw but the piece on the table. My table at the end has a piece that runs perpendicular to the top for the jaw of the vice. I know why they did this but the piece is wearing much faster than the other pieces on the top and the height has greatly diminished. So something to consider when you make yours I have to change this. Good luck and a lot of great answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1106" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T12:06:19.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2356" CreationDate="2015-09-09T13:00:18.343" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've seen mixed advice online about how we should proceed.... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is unfortunately par for the course, mainly because there's no single way to do most things and people have their preferences. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here though, in addition to this it's very difficult to get a firm read on the problems you've had without clear, unambiguous photographs to help. Even though your descriptions seem quite clear it's easy to make incorrect assumptions about what each problem was and therefore the best approaches to take. The weird spots you got after using the sponge for example, there could be three or more possible explanations there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;do we need to sand down to get rid of the scratches (and probably sand out all of the stain and start over), or will using steel wool again and applying more coats of poly get rid of the scratches? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK first thing I need to say is you should stop using steel wool at this stage. It's no good for flattening. Abrasive paper, usually but not exclusively backed with a suitable sanding block, should probably be the only thing used to work out scratches and brush marks, until you get to the rubbing-out and polishing stages at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I so do not want to sand down completely and start over&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you did decide that you need to remove the finish, go back to bare wood, and start again I would highly recommend you not consider doing this by sanding. It would be far preferable to scrape (using a card scraper) rather than sand: it's safer as it produces almost no airborne dust, it's less likely to damage the wood, and can actually be faster and more efficient. &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1134/what-are-the-differences-between-sanding-and-scraping/1159#1159&quot;&gt;More on scraping v. sanding in this previous Answer.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you've probably picked up from your reading already, the normal fix for scratches is sanding (more on this in the next paragraph) until they're gone. In addition, in finishing, adding a fresh coat of finish can hide or make invisible scratches in the surface of the previous coat. As you say you can see scratches underneath the last coat of poly you applied that could be a significant hurdle to fixing the finish you've already applied, but I think you'll have to try the normal routine and hope for the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The usual way to perfect a blemished varnish coat is to wet-sand (using suitable wet-or-dry paper which is usually grey or black in colour) until the visible scratches are gone — full description of the process &lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/a/XneJJ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;reproduced here&lt;/a&gt;, from an article that originally appeared in Popular Woodworking. Also see this guide, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.antiquerestorers.com/Articles/SAL/rub.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rubbing Out A Finish&lt;/a&gt; on AntiqueRestorers.com and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/how-to/rubbing-out-a-finish&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;, on the Rockler website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this results in sanding back to bare wood in spots you may have no choice but to cut your losses and start again. It's not impossible to do spot repairs but it's difficult to make them seamless and truly invisible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not directly related to your query so I'll just add this on the bottom. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;We stained the wood with gel stain and put three coats of Minwax polyurethane on top. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your future reference and for other readers, it's advisable not to think about using gel stain as staining. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;True staining is &lt;em&gt;colouring the wood itself&lt;/em&gt;, using a penetrating liquid, usually coloured (i.e. wood dye or wood stain) that directly colours the surface wood fibres. Something like gel stain on the other hand is merely a coloured surface coating, which is nearly entirely on top of the wood. Hence why &quot;gel stain&quot; is actually a very stupid name for the product; in reality it is merely thickened, coloured varnish so calling it a stain is just bound to cause confusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T13:00:18.343" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2356" CreationDate="2015-09-09T13:14:08.470" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;except we noticed brush marks in about three different spots. I think the brush didn't have a wet tip and the poly dragged or something&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sounds like it could be possible.  It could also have happened if you didn't keep a &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/39611/what-is-a-wet-edge-and-how-do-i-maintain-one&quot;&gt;wet edge&lt;/a&gt;.&quot;  What this means is that you don't want to apply wet finish over partially dry finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;We used steel wool again and did another coat of poly, this time with a sponge. When it dried it left these weird spots, so we put on another coat with a sponge... even more weird spots. (they almost looked like water marks?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume you're talking about a kitchen sponge, which I would avoid using for finishing tasks.  Since they're designed to soak up water, I have a suspicion that your sponge may have been partially damp when you soaked it with finish.  If the finish is oil-based, that could be the cause of your spots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steel wool is fine for lightly scuffing the recently-dry layer of finish to promote better adhesion of a subsequent layer, but as @Graphus states, it's not meant for flattening.  If you want a truly flat surface, sandpaper on a sanding block is the way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This time we took 220 grit sandpaper and sanded the entire top of the table (with our hands... we didn't do enough research to learn that we should have used a sanding block... we're total newbies!) and put on a coat with the brush again. The coat itself looks great! But we can see scratches from the sandpaper under the poly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the risk of contradicting myself, not using a sanding block isn't necessarily a bad thing.  You don't need a pristine, totally flat surface to apply finish.  I don't think I've ever made a piece of furniture where the surface didn't have little dips and bumps due to uneven sanding.  I can almost guarantee no one will notice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you do want to do, however, is sand thoroughly enough that you remove the sanding marks from the coarser sandpaper used previously.  Say you start with 150 grit paper.  Next you would use 180 grit and sand until you can no longer see any 150-grit size scratches.  Then use 200 or 220 grit and sand until the 180 grit scratches go away.  And so on, until you're satisfied.  Personally, I think anything over 220 grit for normal furniture is overkill.  I usually stop at 180 grit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;do we need to sand down to get rid of the scratches (and probably sand out all of the stain and start over)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have scratches under a layer of finish, there's unfortunately only one way to get rid of them - remove the finish and sand or scrape them out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;or will using steel wool again and applying more coats of poly get rid of the scratches? I so do not want to sand down completely and start over, especially when we are this close to being done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I said, steel wool won't really do anything besides scuff the top layer of finish - it's not made for gross finish removal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a consistent coat in the final product, unfortunately I think you'll have to sand to bare wood and start over.  It sucks, I know.  I've done it plenty of times, and it doesn't get any easier each time.  But unless you think you can live with the scratches, that's the route you'll have to take.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, depending on how noticeable the scratches are, you might be making a mountain out of a molehill.  Remember that most people will &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; notice the small mistakes that the person who crafted the piece will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T13:14:08.470" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2354" CreationDate="2015-09-09T14:52:15.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This might be overkill, but good if you want to leave no trace of oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find the most effective solution is a good soaking and washing with acetone. And after the acetone dries, repeat the same steps with brake cleaner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="453" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T14:52:15.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2361" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2362" CreationDate="2015-09-09T18:36:50.083" Score="7" ViewCount="2937" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2 pieces of 5-ply birch plywood, and I want to glue them together to create a 10-ply piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, does it matter which way I orient the two pieces? Should the grain be perpendicular, parallel, or does it not matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tqxWd.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tqxWd.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1091" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T12:12:51.533" Title="Glue and orientation of 2 sheets of plywood" Tags="|glue|plywood|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2361" CreationDate="2015-09-09T18:50:33.050" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The layers of plywood are already alternated, this is what gives it its strength and warp resistance.  Ideally you would place the layers perpendicular, but I don't think you'd see any negative effects if two of the layers happened to be glued together in the same direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T18:50:33.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2361" CreationDate="2015-09-09T21:15:23.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Per &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plywood&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Plywood is a sheet material manufactured from thin layers or &quot;plies&quot; of wood veneer that are glued together with adjacent layers having their wood grain rotated up to 90 degrees to one another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to shave off each subsequent layer of a piece of Baltic birch plywood, you would undoubtedly find that the plies are oriented 90 degrees to each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My question is, does it matter which way I orient the two pieces? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Absolutely not.  Baltic birch plywood is known for its good dimensional stability, which is mostly due to the ply arrangement as discussed.  Gluing two separate pieces will not result in any contradiction of grain orientations, thus you will not have any issues with differential shrinkage wanting to pull the piece apart or split it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T21:15:23.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2361" CreationDate="2015-09-09T21:16:03.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No it doesn't make any significant difference which way you orient the two pieces of plywood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However there is potentially another issue and that is that with some modern plywood the surface veneers are &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; thin. I see you've specified that you're using birch plywood but that is a very broad category and the quality can vary widely, some types have these extremely thin face veneers. To maximise the bond between the two pieces of plywood you may want to remove that veneer from the face of both pieces prior to glueing them together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T21:16:03.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2343" CreationDate="2015-09-10T11:15:30.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;another possibility that also eliminates the need for the bandsaw is to think of the jointer as simply an upside down motorized plane. You'd flatten one face the way you normally would. Then, you'd use the regular hand-tool approach to flattening:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;mark/scribe a line along the entire circumference of the board a fixed distance away from the new flat face (your reference). This will be the target final board thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;using the jointer - and push blocks as needed! - take very shallow cuts, starting at the high points and slowly working towards running the entire board through. Part of this will involve a little finesse with applying pressure in the right place at the right time. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i think the tendency is to see using the jointer the same way as using a thickness planer - you run stuff through it from beginning to end. It becomes a lot more flexible when you realize that (similar to TDHofstetter's post above) you can run only parts of the board over the blades in each pass. It's takes a lot more active involvement and skill, but it gets you the results you want. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Above all, be safe. When you're doing this, there will be times when you'll be placing the board down or removing it, and you'll have to push the guard out of the way. Kickback shouldn't be an issue if you take very shallow cuts, but watch your fingers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T11:15:30.357" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2361" CreationDate="2015-09-10T12:12:51.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What matters here is what look you need. Like others have said the structural integrity is already in place. With most things you build the grain will look right going a certain way. Sides of a shelving unit the grain should be up and down the shelves left and right and so on. I have made these mistakes when cutting and used the pieces anyway to find out if really makes a difference. So for strength it does not buy for looks I say it does. What are you making?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1106" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T12:12:51.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2356" CreationDate="2015-09-10T12:31:31.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have gone through this myself. What I ended up doing is sanding and starting over. I had heard of a few different tricks but none have worked. The worst thing I did as well was to keep trying to &quot;fix&quot; it. Just start over  and if you can borrow an orbital sander start with 120 grit then move up to 200. With the farm table that should be plenty unless the marks are not gone. One trick that works is after sanding wipe the wood with thinner to see scratches and this also gets rid of any dust left on the piece. Apply stain and then steel wool if need be and wipe it down. Now poly again and when you do have a really good light that you can shine at an angle to see those high or dry spots. I usually apply with small roller sponge ( everyone says don't but I do) key here is to go over that with a wet brush to get any bubbles out. I do it this way to make sure I have applied enough and it's even. Always when I brush  paint or anything on I tend to not apply enough so this process helps with that which I think was your initial issue. Good luck I'm  sure it will be fine 99% won't notice unless it's really bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1106" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T12:31:31.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2349" CreationDate="2015-09-10T14:05:16.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps not as cool as the other ideas you could always have this done in two pieces as well. You could do this with two boards and a basic drill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Top board you could drill straight thru. Use some sacrificial wood beneath to reduce tear out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then glue that to a normal board below to give the overall project some size. Be sure to clean glue that would come out from the holes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could add a nice appeal if you use two different coloured woods. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only obvious downside is that you would not have curved recesses with this method. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Single tool suggestion&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A traditional approach for this would be to use something like a spoon bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=57713&amp;amp;cat=1,180,42337&amp;amp;ap=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6drNq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Spoon bits&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=57713&amp;amp;cat=1,180,42337&amp;amp;ap=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;LeeValley Tools&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To prove my point the product description from the page....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;One, it will bore a hole with a &lt;strong&gt;round bottom&lt;/strong&gt;. This allows maximum possible blind hole depth in a chair leg to receive a stretcher with no chance of a brad point or spur breaking through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do plan on using these the minor con about this. Working with them you need to remove the bit to periodically clear debris. This should only be considered a minor hassle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, since they have do not have a central spur or point, they can be hard to get properly positioned. With frequent use its not so hard but making a small pilot hole certainly helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-11-09T17:43:20.197" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T17:43:20.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2371" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2373" CreationDate="2015-09-10T23:47:44.007" Score="9" ViewCount="2158" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 3/4 HP dust collector which uses an induction motor. I bought it on the assumption that the fact that it uses an induction motor means that it shouldn't be too loud, but it sounds like a jet engine. I suspect that the sound is not generated by the motor but rather by the fan. Is there something that can be done to lower the sound coming from the fan?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dust extractor I have is similar to the one in the photo below, but the dust filter is fabric. The layout of the parts is identical, the motor is on top with nothing covering it, the filter and dust bag's location is the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://cms.smithhamilton.com/100/50-720CT_1_c8bfc7b8c9c1a97cf38f861b3806f7b3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;example&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1058" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:50.337" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T10:00:49.457" Title="Why is my dust collector way too loud?" Tags="|dust-collection|noise|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2371" CreationDate="2015-09-11T01:41:08.197" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That roar is really part of the nature of the beast. Some folks tuck their DCs into sound-insulated closets for that very reason, some set up the DC outdoors or in another room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1110" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T01:41:08.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2371" CreationDate="2015-09-11T01:48:08.717" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are moderately noisy beasts. The best that can be said for them is that they're less noisy than a shop vacuum, and much less noisy than any of the large tools you're likely to connect to them. More expensive units, with thicker metal components, may be a bit quieter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try to reduce resonance in the frame, but anything you try to do to the blower's internals will impede function. Some folks build what amounts to a sound-deadening closet to isolate dust collectors; that's your only hope for anything resembling whisper-quiet operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other approach is to turn them on only when needed -- ie, when you'll be wearing hearing protection anyway. Remote controls exist to make that easier, either pushbutton or sensing the current of the cutting tool when it's turned on. The fanciest version, for those who are setting up larger workshops, automatically opens the blast gate(s) for just those tool(s) as well, so the whole dust collection system automagically configures itself as and when needed. (My shop's small enough that I doubt I'll be able to justify permanent ducting.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2015-09-11T03:15:33.013" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T03:15:33.013" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2374" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-11T03:48:02.380" Score="6" ViewCount="2893" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am familiar with many types of workbenches. However, most of the good ones weigh a lot - more than a couple hundred pounds in some cases. One of the reasons the weight is important is so that the bench stays in place while you are putting your own weight into the work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been invited to some craft shows and would like to be able to work while I am there to show off my &lt;strike&gt;skills&lt;/strike&gt; craft. Problem is that most of these benches, like the Roubo workbench, are not really designed to be moved around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could just make a smaller version of it but I fear the weight would be too small and the bench would move around too much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any bench styles that lend to portability while retaining functionality to do simple things like planing? I am not looking for plans but bench styles or individual bench features that would help with my predicament. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tusk and tenon would play a part in this I would imagine but I want to see what other people think. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-09-17T15:00:43.210" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T15:00:43.210" Title="Small, Lightweight woodworking bench Styles" Tags="|tool-selection|workbench|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2374" CreationDate="2015-09-11T05:05:39.807" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tusk tenons, as you mentioned, would be good for disassembly, allowing you to make a larger workbench that can be easily moved in parts. Probably the biggest single piece would be the work surface itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Together with this, I would suggest using &lt;strong&gt;ballast&lt;/strong&gt; - make a small workbench (that can be disassembled or not, depending on how portable you need it to be), and add a place to put weights at the bottom (like a shelf). Then you can take the 10 KG bench with you, together with 100 KG in weights (steel blocks, concrete blocks, sacks of sand, whatever you have or can make). This should also allow for a small footprint bench (I presume space is also at a premium at craft shows), being the minimal size you'll still be comfortable planing with, without worrying about the weight of the bench by itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T05:05:39.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2376" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2385" CreationDate="2015-09-11T05:22:28.040" Score="11" ViewCount="29372" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a workbench with a 900x1500x12mm MDF top and it doesn't appear to be sealed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I apply to seal the edges from leaking and seal the top from absorbing? Indoor use, subject to humidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been told and read many contradicting advice from being paint ready, requiring primer, do and don't use oil/water based products. None of which have managed to instil any confidence in their advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't care what it looks like, I just want it to not leak glue fumes and resist humidity/light spillages. Preferably for cheap and without requiring sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1124" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T02:03:22.943" Title="How do I treat MDF?" Tags="|finishing|workbench|mdf|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2377" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2383" CreationDate="2015-09-11T06:41:59.683" Score="5" ViewCount="363" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a construction set with rods and nodes similar to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zometool.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Zome&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.knex.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;K'nex&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.knex.com/products/tinkertoy/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tinkertoys&lt;/a&gt;. Mine will be in entirely in the plane and based on heptagonal (7-fold) symmetry. (In fact, I'd like Tetradecagonal (14-fold) symmetry, but I'll continue my question with 7.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine the rods will be fairly easy to make - bamboo skewers cut to certain lengths and stained accordingly to length (probably between about 5 and 15 cm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nodes will be &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heptagonal_prism&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;heptagonal prisms&lt;/a&gt; about 5mm thick and 10mm &quot;diameter&quot; with holes to fit the struts drilled into the centres of the (yellow) sides:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/85XO3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/85XO3.png&quot; alt=&quot;Heptagonal prism&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine this could be most easily made from a length of wood with heptagonal cross section drilled and then cut up. (Alternatively, the nodes could instead be round and made from dowel or pvc pipe then drilled with 7 holes.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question: How to make the heptagonal prism nodes? How to drill into the sides?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1125" LastEditorUserId="1125" LastEditDate="2015-09-12T05:12:51.063" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T05:12:51.063" Title="How to make a heptagonal construction set?" Tags="|drilling|design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2376" CreationDate="2015-09-11T12:17:30.790" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always wear a mask when I cut it.  I would sand it myself so it would adhere better but you don't have to it just won't look as good. I myself wouldn't paint it as the MDF will stay flat without finishing because it's got all that glue holding it together. I have pieces unfinished laying around for years and it's fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some say the formaldehyde is safe and can't leak because of the glue it is in case in. I won't go into that but it is better to be safe then sorry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1106" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-09-11T16:00:09.710" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T16:00:09.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2374" CreationDate="2015-09-11T12:30:42.393" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this may not be what you are thinking but what about those jaw horse style benches. I have this old one from the 70's made by BD and it has dog holes on top and the top separates for a vice and it folds up. It is really sturdy and stays somewhat stable. Workmate by Black and Decker.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e6A4F.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Standing with feet folded.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1106" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T12:30:42.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2374" CreationDate="2015-09-11T13:13:40.443" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two workbench styles I think would fit your bill.  Both are made to be portable and include knockdown construction for ease of moving and transportation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Nicholson Workbench&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is the Nicholson Workbench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CGQiB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CGQiB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;nicholson&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.lostartpress.com/2014/09/18/materials-tools-for-the-knockdown-nicholson-workbench/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lost Art Press&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This bench is easily made from construction lumber.  I've seen lots of blogs of people making these who live in apartments or are otherwise concerned with weight and portability.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://vimeo.com/104208541&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chris Schwarz&lt;/a&gt; (source of the picture above) likes the style for these qualities, as well as the ease of construction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll give you a few links for building one below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wkfinetools.com/contrib/wMyers/nicholsonBench/nicholsonBench-01.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;WK Fine Tools&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lost Art Press &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.lostartpress.com/2014/09/08/download-free-plans-for-the-knockdown-nicholson-workbench/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;free plans&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paul Sellers builds a version in his &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLD39949332C7FB168&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video series&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Moravian Workbench&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second bench is the Moravian workbench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x3jww.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x3jww.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;moravian&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/WoodAndShop/blog/45097&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lumberjocks&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one is a bit more complicated to build due to the non-square angles of the legs and the odd leg vise.  Roy Underhill discusses its virtues in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GKI4aQtIRlg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;.  You will notice the sliding wedged tenons on the legs that are easily knocked out with a mallet.  The tops are usually gravity-held on the base and come off easily.  The splay of the legs increases the stability of the bench during planing action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, I'll paste some links with further information below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wkfinetools.com/contrib/wMyers/moravianBench/moravianBench-01.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;WK Fine Tools&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Popular Woodworking has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/editors-blog/building-portable-moravian-workbench-dvd&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video on building one&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will Myers has developed with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://woodandshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/Moravian-Workbench-Plans-Will-Myers.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;set of plans&lt;/a&gt; (and &lt;a href=&quot;http://woodandshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/Moravian-Workbench-Cut-List.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cut list&lt;/a&gt;) that are used in the previous video&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-09-13T03:47:42.580" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T03:47:42.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2371" CreationDate="2015-09-11T13:37:45.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are loud. Just the way it is. If you try to modify it for sound you reduce the efficacy. The best way is to put it in another room. The closet thing works to. Exhausting it outside helps a little as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1106" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T13:37:45.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1463" CreationDate="2015-09-11T13:39:57.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You use a sled. What also matters is if your saw has any wiggle. If you use a sled  you can add stops so you get repeatability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1106" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T13:39:57.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2377" CreationDate="2015-09-11T15:07:25.630" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I'm aware, there is no way to construct a &quot;true&quot; heptagon using only a straightedge and a compass.  However, there is an approximate way that might work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To create a heptagon, first draw a circle.  The larger the circle, the more accurate your heptagon will be.  Then, using a dividers, set them to what looks to be the correct length of one of the sides.  Walk the dividers around the circle until you have paced out all seven sides.  Most likely you will land off the mark you started at, which means that your length needs adjusting.  Adjust the dividers longer or shorter as necessary, and repeat the process until you have the circle divided into seven even segments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XLtji.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XLtji.gif&quot; alt=&quot;heptagon dividers&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.emis.de/journals/NNJ/GA-Fig3.3-3.7.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;emis.de&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, draw seven lines radiating from the center of the circle to each of the endpoints you stepped out with the dividers.  These will divide your circle into seven even slices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine that you will want to start out with a long, straight-grained dowel of a diameter that suits your size.  Place this dowel on the circle you just drew, making sure that the dowel is centered on the circle.  You might want to make some sort of clamping jig for this operation.  With the dowel coincident with the center of the circle, mark a line for each of the seven pie pieces you previously drew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will now have seven marks on the end of the dowel spaced evenly.  Next, carry these lines along the entire length of the dowel, making sure they are exactly parallel with one another.  At this point, you will have seven parallel lines along the length of the dowel that split it into seven even segments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, take the dowel and place one end against a planing stop (or lightly pinch it between two dogs with your workbench tail vise, see image below).  One of the segments you marked should be facing directly upwards.  Using a hand plane (preferably a jointer plane), begin planing away the facet.  Stop when you get down to your lines.  Repeat for each of the seven sides of the heptagon, and you will be left with a heptagonal dowel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/45iP0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/45iP0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;vise&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/3-classic-vises-made-with-pipe-clamps&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Popular Woodworking&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point you can cut the dowel into slices to produce your corner pieces for your shapes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For drilling, make a jig that cradles the slices such that the top face is horizontal (perpendicular to your drill press).  Then it's a simple matter of drilling out for the rods with the drill bit you want and at a depth that works for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Of course&lt;/strong&gt;, if you don't want to go to the trouble of making a heptagonal dowel (it's a lot of fiddly work), you could just use a regular dowel, slice it up, and mark your seven segments on the end of the slice.  Then, make a drilling jig that holds the dowels, and that has a mark directly on the bottom of the area that holds the dowels.  Then, all you have to do in index your marks to the bottom of the jig and drill your holes, rotating the dowel slice each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-09-11T15:14:06.993" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T15:14:06.993" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2377" CreationDate="2015-09-11T15:26:43.850" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heptagons are not &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Constructible_polygon&quot;&gt;constructible polygons&lt;/a&gt;, so you will need to use a protractor and make an indexing jig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not clear what final diameter your setup requires, but for small work it might be best to keep the extreme ends of the dowel circular, so they can be mounted in a chuck - from there, you would have a router move on a linear slide to shape each of the seven faces. (I have a  small CNC router, so this is how I would accomplish this task for sufficiently small dowels.) When the facing operations are over, you can simply part the circular piece off as you would in a lathe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since, from your rendering, it appears as though you might want a groove in each face to seat a planar piece of wood, a router is probably the best tool to use here - you can easily find bits that will have the profile you require.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might check out the excellent Mathias Wandel's &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/user/Matthiaswandel&quot;&gt;Youtube&lt;/a&gt; channel for ideas on jig-building - his work is enviably well-documented and thoughtfully-presented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="292" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T15:26:43.850" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2376" CreationDate="2015-09-11T18:18:11.097" Score="13" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What should I apply to seal the edges from leaking and seal the top from absorbing? Indoor use, subject to humidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technically you don't have to do anything to it, many people have MDF benchtops with no finish on them. The moisture in the air is basically a non-issue for MDF, it's only liquid water that you need to be concerned with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a separate durability issue however, the edges of MDF are fairly friable and prone to damage. If you're OK with your bench taking its licks and showing it that's fine, use it as-is. But many people edge their MDF benchtops with strips of wood (hardwood or softwood, your preference):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EexHj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EexHj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;MDF workbench tops&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I think you can see the MDF in these benches appears to be without a finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to adding durability to knocks and scrapes solid wood edging strips effectively cover the cut edges of the MDF and hence add quite a bit of water-resistance at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;light spillages&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do expect you'll spill water on the bench then it is a good idea to apply a finish. Many people use a traditional workbench finish: a couple of coats of oil (usually BLO or tung oil), but you'll be better off if you use varnish as it is far more waterproofing (and the MDF far more prone to damage from water than the traditional solid wood). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dilute at least the first couple of coats of your varnish by about 1:1 with added spirits to improve penetration, then two full-strength coats if you want very high levels of water-resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T18:18:11.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2374" CreationDate="2015-09-11T19:39:32.923" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Overall design&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many designs of smaller benches out there that could be converted to be easy to assemble and disassemble with minimal modification (e.g. nuts and bolts taking the place of glued joints). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition there are many purpose-designed knockdown benches, either for portability such as you want or to allow the bench to be broken down and stored out of the way if the woodworker isn't lucky enough to have a dedicated workspace. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two of my favourite knockdown workbench designs that are available online are shown below. They make a great pairing when shown together as they take completely different approaches to the problem while still fulfilling the requirements:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FhIJs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FhIJs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Large knockdown workbench&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/workshop/tip/knock-down-workbench-holds-two-tool-chests.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fine Woodworking&lt;/a&gt;]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4frra.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4frra.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Apartment workbench&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.closegrain.com/2013/12/apartment-workbench.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Close Grain blog&lt;/a&gt;]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Weight and stability&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously with smaller workbenches the lack of mass becomes an issue in terms of how well the bench performs in use, primarily when planing which can impart surprisingly high forces through the workpiece to the table. There are two main forces to contend with, lifting from the leverage (resulting in the bench potentially being knocked completely over, as you've experienced with your folding metal work table) and plain pushing, which can make the bench 'walk' across the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As already suggested in another Answer, adding ballast can help with these problems and it's the most common solution. Effectively you're making a lighter bench heavier, without it inherently being that massive. This ballast can be in the form of sandbags, large jugs of water and best of all, jugs filled with sand &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; water, which is significantly heavier than either material used alone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While weights like this can work OK the system is not without its problems, for your application possibly the worst is that the weight is bulky and tiring to carry to and from your vehicle to where your bench will be installed. And anyway there's a better method: &lt;strong&gt;use your own bodyweight&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your own weight will usually be &lt;em&gt;considerably&lt;/em&gt; more than any reasonably portable ballast system and it is always available when working at the bench while needing zero additional effort to 'install' at the site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some bench designs have either low rails or a foot and you can step up with one foot on either to help hold the bench down and in position but having tried this it's not perfect — it's neither the best stance to be working in and it doesn't add close to your entire weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make best use of your body weight you want to use all of it and you want to be able to do so without compromising on the best stance for the task at hand. Luckily there's an easy solution to this and that is to attach the legs (e.g. with steel fixing plates) to a sheet of plywood or OSB. The sheet must extend far enough out that you stand on it with both feet during regular use, so normally if it is wider to the right and projects out at the front only that will be enough (for a right-handed user). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should completely solve any tendency of a lightweight bench to walk away from you as you plane and it's &lt;em&gt;impossible&lt;/em&gt; for the user to knock over, even if while you're working the plane hits a knot and stops dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T19:39:32.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2374" CreationDate="2015-09-12T07:40:48.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wjFbW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wjFbW.png&quot; alt=&quot;Romak Workbench&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a tool-less (Maybe a mallet) dis/assembly steel workbench, with recessed MDF tops. Would provide great portability and as mentioned elsewhere here, you can use the bottom shelf for a ballast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1124" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T07:40:48.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2388" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-12T15:01:44.110" Score="9" ViewCount="3014" Body="&lt;p&gt;My router comes with a 30mm copy ring, and you can optionally buy 27, 24, 17, 13.8, and 8.5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happens that spiral router bits come in &lt;em&gt;even&lt;/em&gt; full-millimeter sizes from 6 to 20 as well as 12.7 (but of course not 13.8), and straight blades come in &lt;em&gt;odd and even&lt;/em&gt; full-millimeter sizes from 3 to 30 &lt;strong&gt;except&lt;/strong&gt; 17, 24, and 27.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Forstners usually come in 15, 20, and 25, but neither 17 nor 24. Some manufacturers sell 16 and 18 as well, but not 17 (or 24), and certainly not 13.8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In one word, unless you are willing to go for 30mm (which is really a huge hole!), there is no single way to make any kind of hole that will fit any copy ring exactly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which leaves me with two options that I can think of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill a 14mm hole and wrap a layer of Tesa tape around the 13.8mm copy ring. That sounds like &lt;em&gt;mucho WTF&lt;/em&gt; but might actually work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make a template-template by drilling a 30mm hole and using a 27mm copy-ring (3mm gap) with a 14mm bit, producing the actual template. That is somewhat less WTF, but it adds the router's mechanical clearance twice, reducing precision (it will probably not matter, but it's a systematic error).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;What is this actually needed for? I would for example like to drill dowel holes or domino slits with such a template.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Of course, drilling one hole and using those little metal spikes to mark the center &lt;em&gt;works&lt;/em&gt; for dowels. And of course simply using a double parallel guide and making the hole a bit longer works for dominoes, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, with a proper template, one should be able to reproduce &lt;em&gt;exact&lt;/em&gt; holes at exact positions every time without trying or measuring.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As in, hold template against piece, stick copy-ring through hole... and go!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is the piece (copy-ring) that I'm talking about:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3XCOo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3XCOo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="135" LastEditorUserId="135" LastEditDate="2015-09-13T10:07:39.997" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T09:41:02.073" Title="How to make exact copy-ring templates?" Tags="|router|template|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2389" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-12T17:38:39.413" Score="8" ViewCount="4048" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen several examples but this one captures my question perfectly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CGQiB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CGQiB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Das Table&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is the bench from &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/2380/128&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;. As you can see there is a nice arrangement of holes along the skirt. As well as a couple of holes on the right-hand side leg. The latter I mostly know the answer for as I keep seeing holdfast put in there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What about the ones on the skirt? I'm sure they are more than just decoration. I am aware that the holes in the tops are bench dog holes for using with holdfasts, bench dogs and stops. Just never seen them on the side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2017-06-14T02:46:29.773" LastActivityDate="2017-06-14T02:46:29.773" Title="What are the holes on the skirts and legs of benches for?" Tags="|workbench|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2389" CreationDate="2015-09-12T19:43:05.130" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;They would allow for a peg to be inserted at various heights and distance away from the vise to support long boards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1051" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T19:43:05.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2389" CreationDate="2015-09-13T03:45:47.823" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The holes in a workbench skirt are usually used for pegs.  They're used to prop one end of a long board up while the other end is clamped in a vise or held to the face of the bench with a clamp or holdfast.  For the Nicholson-style workbench pictured above, usually one would jam the end of a board (oriented vertically) into the crow's mouth on the left and and put pegs under each end.  The force of planing keeps the left end of the board tight in the crow's mouth while the pegs keep it from falling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The picture below shows the use of a support peg in general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6pYHm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6pYHm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;pegs&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QydDquSlwyI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;thewoodenmilieu on Youtube&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one below, provided by @RedGrittyBrick, shows its use with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JSFJm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nicholson-style bench&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/riIDd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/riIDd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Nicholson&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-02-08T14:29:27.303" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T14:29:27.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2392" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2393" CreationDate="2015-09-13T07:08:46.010" Score="7" ViewCount="282" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a lot of wood furniture in my home. Unfortunately, they have watermarks (rings) on them from sweating cups/glasses. It is very unattractive to me and my guests. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to remove it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1131" LastEditorUserId="1131" LastEditDate="2015-09-15T00:11:35.363" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T16:38:41.037" Title="How do I remove a watermark?" Tags="|furniture|staining|wood|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2392" CreationDate="2015-09-13T15:58:03.737" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only entirely foolproof way I know to remove deep, long-set water marks is to sand to bare wood, restain (if your piece was stained) and refinish.  However, fresh, less deep stains may be more easily remedied, as I've found with some quick internet research.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing a quick google search has found the following home remedies.  &lt;strong&gt;I have not tested any of these&lt;/strong&gt;, so take it as hearsay.  What a lot of them have in common is &lt;em&gt;oil&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;abrasion&lt;/em&gt;, or a combination thereof, so there may be something there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make a paste of 1 tablespoon baking soda and 1 teaspoon water. Gently rub the spot in a circular motion until it disappears. Remember not to use too much water. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rd.com/slideshows/how-to-remove-water-stains-from-wood/&quot;&gt;Reader's Digest&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply petroleum jelly and let it sit overnight. In the morning, wipe the watermark away with the jelly. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rd.com/slideshows/how-to-remove-water-stains-from-wood/&quot;&gt;Reader's Digest&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-remove-water-stains-from-wood-furniture.html&quot;&gt;Dummies.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mix 1 teaspoon salt with a few drops of water to form a paste. Gently rub the paste onto the ring with a soft cloth or sponge and work it over the spot until it’s gone. Restore the luster of your wood with furniture polish. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rd.com/slideshows/how-to-remove-water-stains-from-wood/&quot;&gt;Reader's Digest&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gently rub some non-gel toothpaste on the wood with a soft cloth. Then wipe it off with a damp cloth and let it dry before applying furniture polish. For even stronger cleaning power, mix equal parts white toothpaste and baking soda. Rub the paste parallel to the wood grain, wipe it off, and then polish with lemon oil. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rd.com/slideshows/how-to-remove-water-stains-from-wood/&quot;&gt;Reader's Digest&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-remove-water-stains-from-wood-furniture.html&quot;&gt;Dummies.com&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bobvila.com/articles/how-to-remove-water-stains-from-wood/&quot;&gt;Bob Vila&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://charlesandhudson.com/how_to_remove_water_stain_circles_from_wood_furniture/&quot;&gt;Charles &amp;amp; Hudson&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mix equal parts vinegar and olive oil and apply it with a soft cloth while moving with the wood grain. Use another clean, soft cloth to shine it up. (&lt;strong&gt;The OP has indicated that this solution worked&lt;/strong&gt;) (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rd.com/slideshows/how-to-remove-water-stains-from-wood/&quot;&gt;Reader's Digest&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try using a dab of car wax. Trace the ring with your finger to apply the wax. Let it dry and buff with a soft cloth. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rd.com/slideshows/how-to-remove-water-stains-from-wood/&quot;&gt;Reader's Digest&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Empty your clothes iron of all the water inside, then bring it into the room with the affected piece of furniture. Plug in the iron, then lay a cotton napkin, towel, or T-shirt over the stain. With the iron set on low, apply it briefly to the fabric before lifting the cloth to see if the ring has diminished. Repeat until (we hope) the white stain has disappeared. Alternatively, you can try using a hair dryer to achieve the same effect. Move the dryer back and forth over the area for about 10 minutes until the moisture evaporates. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bobvila.com/articles/how-to-remove-water-stains-from-wood/&quot;&gt;Bob Vila&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most sites I have read suggest applying a furniture polish or wax after the water stain is removed, which I think is a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why we keep a ton of coasters around our house, and also why I yell at people to use one when they have a drink :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-09-13T16:03:41.680" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T16:03:41.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2394" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2395" CreationDate="2015-09-13T20:49:11.570" Score="8" ViewCount="9414" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen some tutorials online about how to create a cutting board, and all of them suggests using a power router to round the edges and create the pockets for the handles. It looks so easy to do with the router, but I was wondering if those steps can be done using hand tools and get a satisfying result? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What tools can replace a router in this case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am after is something similar to whats in the image below, but the handles are at the bottom instead of being in the middle of the sides:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://st.hzcdn.com/simgs/790125d604a3db8e_4-6110/contemporary-cutting-boards.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cutting board&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1058" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:50.357" LastActivityDate="2019-04-10T11:43:20.567" Title="What hand tools to use for rounding edges and creating pockets?" Tags="|hand-tools|router|tool-selection|traditional-techniques|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2394" CreationDate="2015-09-14T03:08:03.520" Score="4" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Rounded Edges&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oodles of tools and techniques at your disposal. I would be surprised if you didn't own one of these tools already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tools&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chisels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gouges&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Planes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rasp&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spoke shaves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moulding planes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have a few options here depending on what you have available/ are willing to acquire. You could use a chisels, rasps, planes or spokeshaves to form your edges. A gouge would help for going around the corners. There are some moulding planes I am sure that would be perfect for this job. Most of the rasps that you will see at big box stores are more for removing rougher stock but you can find finer rasps (sometimes called cabinet maker rasps). Following example is of an Asian hollowing plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,41182&amp;amp;p=64009&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.leevalley.com/en/images/item/woodworking/planes/07p1618s1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hollow Plane&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.leevalley.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lee Valley Tools&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Recess for handle (pocket)&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That looks a lot like a mortise I would look into techniques similar to those. The one issue with making mortises is that you don't usually care what the surface inside looks like but you can in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tools&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Auger bits (Spade, forstner would also work)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brace and bit (or some other tools for working the bits.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chisels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Router plane&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use your bits to clear out the waste wood from the recess and clean the edges with a chisel. Assuming it is not to deep you can use a router plane or a poor man's router to clean the &amp;quot;bottom&amp;quot; of the recess. Using a regular chisel bevel down would also help with cleaning the bottom as well. Below is a picture of using the drill bits to remove most of the waste wood from the mortise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.startwoodworking.com/post/mortise-and-tenon-joinery-basics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jkaUw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Starting a mortise&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.startwoodworking.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;startwoodworking.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2019-04-10T11:43:20.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2388" CreationDate="2015-09-14T10:40:49.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plastic and heat or mould:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Heat the copying ring into a piece of plastic. After a few tries you hopefully have a perfect mould. After you manage to figure out how to make the plastic not stick to the copying ring...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other moulding material might do the trick but I can't think of any right now. Epoxy maybe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This plastic piece can then be inserted into a jig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lathe:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Mount a piece of wood to a lathe and sneak up on the size. Then mount this piece of wood in a jig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastEditorUserId="400" LastEditDate="2015-09-14T10:49:36.880" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T10:49:36.880" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2394" CreationDate="2015-09-14T12:10:23.160" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rounding edges&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without using any power tools these are the tools you could use to do this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;plane &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;scratch stock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rasp and/or file&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spokeshave&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;card scraper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;chisel or gouge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that sometimes a combination would be used, rather than the entire job being done using the one tool. Also note these are in rough order of preference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't listed sandpaper here but the entire operation can be done quite well using just sandpaper, particularly if a modest rounding (small radius) is desired. It is also routine to use some sanding to refine and smooth a rounded edge produced using hand tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A moulding plane with a suitable bit would be hands-down the best tool for this job but as they're a specialist piece of kit I'll discount them. So, in general the simplest and easiest handtool method to round an edge is to first create a 45° chamfer (often done with a block plane but in theory nearly any hand plane can be used) and then to knock the corners off the chamfer with one or two light passes of the plane, in essence creating a triple chamfer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CjkAG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CjkAG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rounding over with a block plane&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Source: &lt;strong&gt;Choosing &amp;amp; Using Hand Tools&lt;/strong&gt; by Andy Rae]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This 'faceted' edge can then easily be made smoothly round with minimal scraping or sanding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that for this project because of the grain orientation you're probably better off if you confine yourself to doing this with sandpaper. Start with 80 or 100 grit, then 150, then finish off using 220 (or whatever the final grit is that you used on the face of the board).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rounded corners&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Traditionally this would be done with a chisel, although in theory hand planing using the above method could also be used if the workpiece can be secured at a suitable angle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The usual chiselling technique would be to have the workpiece flat on the bench and to pare downward with the chisel:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lDEGt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lDEGt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rounding a corner with a chisel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note the grip used and the position of the head so the user can sight down the length of the chisel, this is the textbook stance and hold for vertical paring and it allows very precise, controlled shaving to be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Finger grip cutouts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few different methods that can be used here. I think your simplest option would be to drill two holes* for the rounded corners followed by sawing the 'shoulders' and then chopping back to your marked line with a chisel. Final flattening/smoothing of the bottom of the groove (what will be the top with the board flipped over in use) would be done by careful horizontal paring using the chisel, or with a hand router of one kind or another. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*If only hand tools were available here as well, this would usually mean using a swing brace and suitable bit; a wheel brace is not usually powerful enough to drill holes of a greater diameter than approximately 6mm / 1/4&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T12:10:23.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2398" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2401" CreationDate="2015-09-14T23:40:38.833" Score="24" ViewCount="10361" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a lot of finds from garage sales and from picking out tools from my grandfather's old shop. While he mostly keeps his tools in great working order he had some that I would guess he didn't feel comfortable throwing out (He kept EVERYTHING.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So let's say you hit metal or otherwise caused a dent in the tool or found a tool in damaged state. For argument's sake say maybe at least a 2-4 mm dent or chip. The following is an &lt;em&gt;extreme&lt;/em&gt; example of both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/projects/1502&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zq3OX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chipped chisel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/projects/1502&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;lumberjocks.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I remember the sharpening techniques discussed here already at WW.SE govern sharpening dull tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does one do in the case of this type of irregular, severe damage? Another example of just a chip which could likely happen. Do you just do more of the roughing step (like standard sharpening) or is there something else that should be done first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thejoinersapprentice.com/2014/08/the-broken-chisel-and-shameless.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4wdRFwTNqZM/U_ubRORLw7I/AAAAAAAABDk/Qp5b8rkIfgI/s1600/DSCN2307.JPG&quot; alt=&quot;Chipped chisel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thejoinersapprentice.com/2014/08/the-broken-chisel-and-shameless.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;thejoinersapprentice.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that some options are listed in the pages I linked but I wanted the community here to have a go. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2019-02-12T03:16:31.380" LastActivityDate="2019-03-12T19:25:12.447" Title="How does one aggressively sharpen chisels and plane irons when damaged?" Tags="|sharpening|plane|tool-maintenance|chisel|tool-repair|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2398" CreationDate="2015-09-15T01:48:21.603" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's that damaged, you're looking at removing a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; more metal than normal, creating an entirely new edge. Typically, that means careful work with a grinder (being careful not to overheat the metal), a metal-cutting file, or something similar. Once the tool is returned to the correct shape, you can sharpen it fairly normally -- flatten the back, establish the primary bevel, sharpen, sharpen microbevel, deburr and hone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2015-09-15T03:14:58.363" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T03:14:58.363" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2398" CreationDate="2015-09-15T02:15:14.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd start with a file, removing metal perpendicular to the blade until the damaged parts are removed.  Take it slow, check often to make sure it remains square and make sure it doesn't get too hot.  A rule I've heard is if it's too hot to touch, it's overheated.  But using a file I'd be surprised if it would get cooked, especially if you're checking often for squareness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, I'd rough cut the bevel with the file.  Get it as close as you can then move onto your preferred method of final sharpening.  Personally I use a Work Sharp 3000 and love it, but there are lots of other ways to do so and lots of helpful info out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1112" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T02:15:14.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2398" CreationDate="2015-09-15T09:40:20.060" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously both of those cases are quite severe examples of edge damage, but even for single chips smaller than this re-grinding the bevel manually can be challenging. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This level of edge repair is generally considered a job for power grinding. It is possible manually, I've done it entirely by hand on 'rescue chisels' using a combination of diamond plates and a coarse waterstone, but it's not something you'd want to do routinely. It's &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; of work and if you're sharpening freehand because you have to stop and check for square frequently (and then adjust as needed if you're going out of square) it takes even longer than you expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do this with any frequency you'll probably want to use some kind of powered grinding/honing tool for the bulk material removal, a small bench grinder as least. It doesn't have to be an expensive grinder and it &lt;em&gt;doesn't&lt;/em&gt; have to be a low-speed model or have a cool-cutting aftermarket wheel, although both of those are advantages. But at higher speeds using a typical aggressive wheel (often grey in colour) you will want to have a container of cold water immediately to hand to dunk the chisel tip into periodically to cool it before continuing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; some sharpening gurus (e.g. Leonard Lee in his book on sharpening) say this dunking leads to microfractures that damage the steel near the tip and make it prone to chipping, however, cooling in cold water periodically during grinding is extremely common practice and most users experience no issues. Myself, I've seen no evidence of it when cooling metal cutting tools (knives, gravers and chisels in various metals) during various grinding operations. However, it is probable that the key thing here is the size of the temperature change. So dunk early and often, and after the first dunk pay attention to the drops of water on the back of the chisel — they give you a read on how the temperature is rising. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with all grinding, don't press hard. Let the stone do the work, it should almost be the weight of the chisel against the stone pressing it home. Even doing this the tip will heat up and pauses or dunking in water may be necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your first thought might be to just work on the bevel, grinding back at that angle until the chips are gone. This is a mistake because there's a high potential for the thin edge to overheat (thin metal heats up &lt;em&gt;fast&lt;/em&gt;). It's a bit scary but it's actually better to grind the edge 90° and straight across until you've removed the chips, then work to re-establish your desired primary bevel angle.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3ka0l.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3ka0l.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way you're grinding at or near a thin edge for minimal time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although the chisel can be held in the fingers for both grinding operations once you get to grinding the bevel itself a jig can be a big help. Even without dunking you need to pause periodically to inspect the progress of the grind on the bevel and it can be difficult to maintain the same angle accurately, so some sort of jig is highly advisable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This jig doesn't have to be complex or elaborate to work well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1FYpr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1FYpr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Basic chisel-grinding jig&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see you can knock up something that will work well from shop scrap and a few bits of inexpensive hardware. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Doing this by hand&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If a powered grinding tool of any kind is not in the budget, or you simply enjoy the hard work and challenge, I'll include a basic guide to doing this manually. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First off I would highly recommend using a coarse or extra-coarse diamond plate for the bulk removal. The difference in grinding speed of diamond is quite noticeable when doing this level of material removal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A coarse waterstone can be used, but it will take much longer. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A coarse oilstone can be used, but it will take longer still.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If doing this on a waterstone, even being conscientious about working over the entire stone, expect that you might need to re-flatten the surface after doing this amount of material removal. Most particularly with any very hard chisels with waterstones wearing quickly it's possible you may need to re-flatten once &lt;em&gt;during&lt;/em&gt; the operation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not due to the risk of overheating, again it seems like it's best to grind the tip flat across until the chips are gone and then to set to work grinding the bevel much as you would doing regular sharpening. It's hard to explain why this works better but I've tried both ways and I highly recommend it as the way to tackle this sort of major re-profiling. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If using stones &lt;em&gt;grind the edge flat on the side of the stone if possible&lt;/em&gt;; it's very easy to dish the face of the stone otherwise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2015-09-15T09:49:16.713" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T09:49:16.713" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2374" CreationDate="2015-09-16T13:00:51.487" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you seen/thought about the Paulk workbench?  It was designed to be broken down and is pretty sturdy.  It is built from sheets of plywood with an open construction pattern so it is both sturdy and lighter weight, and according to the designer it was designed so he could have a good bench that could travel to him to various jobsites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/68n2G.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/68n2G.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A picture to help&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An interview with the creator and a video on it is here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.core77.com/posts/25453/Interview-with-Ron-Paulk-on-the-Design-of-His-Innovative-Paulk-Workbench&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.core77.com/posts/25453/Interview-with-Ron-Paulk-on-the-Design-of-His-Innovative-Paulk-Workbench&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="432" LastEditorUserId="432" LastEditDate="2015-09-17T14:55:24.287" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T14:55:24.287" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2403" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2407" CreationDate="2015-09-17T20:36:03.003" Score="20" ViewCount="4109" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking into getting a set of diamond stones so I can start some serious sharpening. I am doing some now with sandpaper but I am starting to find aspects tedious and am looking at other options. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing that gets me is that I have been seeing two different styles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is, what I would call, your standard stone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rz8Vvm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rz8Vvm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;diamond block stone&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then you get stones that have the appearance like the zoomed in image below. Notice the cutting surface has spaces. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KImI2m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KImI2m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;another diamond stone&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While both of these images are from LeeValley tools I would like to point out that I am not trying to draw attention to the stones themselves. In the case of LeeValley both product pages mention chisels so in theory they are both capable of sharpening edge tools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to figure out if there are any differences between the two that would make me want to choose one over the other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or perhaps it just boils down to price and opinion in which case the answer would be something along it doesn't matter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2019-10-31T11:41:53.830" LastActivityDate="2021-12-16T00:24:43.603" Title="Does it matter what kind of diamond stone I get?" Tags="|hand-tools|sharpening|tool-maintenance|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2403" CreationDate="2015-09-17T21:04:25.873" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The more abrasive surface the stone has, the faster it will cut.  Stones with less abrasive surface will probably be less expensive, but will not cut as fast (or as evenly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is probably one of those &quot;Is it true, does it matter&quot; type of questions.  In real world use, it probably isn't a significant difference between the two.  There may be a more significant difference between well made stones and poorly made ones.  Having consistent grit sizes throughout the stone is important as you get down to finer grits.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that you will need multiple grits to fully finish a blade.  Personally, I use a coarse diamond stone for setting the bevel and grinding away larger amounts of metal, because the diamond stones don't get dished out.  I prefer to use water stones (shapton specifically) to finish the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T21:04:25.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2403" CreationDate="2015-09-17T21:09:28.297" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am trying to figure out if there are any differences between the two that would make me want to choose one over the other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is really only one significant difference I can see between the two examples you posted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The diamond plates in your first example are solid plates with a consistent diamond grit across the entire surface.  I own one of these types (fine grit, used for final honing) and it works well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second type, with the plastic circles, allow for swarf to accumulate in the plastic divots, which can lead to better cutting action and less clogging of the diamond grit.  However, these have less diamond grit overall, so they will likely wear out faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice, I don't think one will really cut much faster than the other - at least, not noticeably for a hobbyist.  If properly lubricated, either will work fine.  I usually use water (or spit, if I don't feel like going to the tap).  Paul Sellers uses window cleaning fluid for his diamond stones.  A honing oil (light mineral oil) will work also, and I've seen that WD-40 works as well.  Certain oils could eat away at the plastic circles, so beware if that's the type of stone you're using and check the manufacturer's recommendations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2019-06-16T18:06:00.880" LastActivityDate="2019-06-16T18:06:00.880" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2406" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2408" CreationDate="2015-09-18T04:57:20.083" Score="5" ViewCount="7088" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to cut a mostly rectangular hole out of a piece of 3/4&quot; plywood about 21&quot; wide by 32&quot; tall.  I would like the corners to be somewhat rounded (about a 1&quot; - 2&quot; radius), and I want to rehang the cut out section back in the main sheet as a door.  I know that I could simplify my life by cutting the door and the opening from separate pieces of plywood, but I'd like the grain to match which is why I want to reuse the cutout piece as the door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is a good way to go about making this cut keeping the straight parts parallel and the rounded parts clean and uniform to reduce the amount of reworking and cleanup needed to finish the job?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="923" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-09-18T19:24:06.687" LastActivityDate="2019-04-24T03:08:27.540" Title="How to cut an opening and door out of 3/4&quot; Plywood" Tags="|plywood|tool-selection|cutting|door|holes|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2403" CreationDate="2015-09-18T08:38:09.460" Score="11" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to figure out if there are any differences between the two that would make me want to choose one over the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or perhaps it just boils down to price and opinion in which case the answer would be something along it doesn't matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, it mostly boils down to price. The continuous-surface diamond plates tend to be significantly more expensive with, honestly, no clear advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you just want to dip your toe into diamond sharpening I would recommend you get inexpensive diamond plates of the type you see everywhere. In the US they'll usually be less than $10 for a set of three, and currently there's a four-sided block with a plastic holder on Harbor Freight which is $9.99 (shown on the right below).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F1Mci.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F1Mci.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Inexpensive diamond hones&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;People using high-end diamond products from the likes of DMT can be horrified at these and assume they can't work properly, but the practical experience of a great many users argues otherwise. There's a lot written about how much flatter the name-brand plates are (which is undeniably true) but at the end of the day that tends to matter most to OCD types who obsess over that sort of thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line is this:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Are the inexpensive ones as good as the more expensive plates? No.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Can they be good enough to do the job? Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To illustrate the point, I recently re-sharpened a 'rescue chisel' (bought some months ago covered in rust) using my old diamond plates. This was done just to confirm that a bare-bones sharpening system built around cheap diamond plates could be enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chisel was previously sharpened with a convex/cambered bevel so first step was to re-grind the bevel flat, which took roughly seven minutes, including stops to check for square and adjust grinding pressure as needed. Then I worked up through the grits as you would normally do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QAQ5I.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QAQ5I.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Inexpensive diamond sharpening 1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f9BZa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f9BZa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Inexpensive diamond sharpening 2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally stropped for final edge refinement. Not pictured was a final honing step but you can go straight to stropping from the fine plate, you just need to strop for longer to compensate (e.g. 40-50 strokes as opposed to 15-20, the difference of less than a minute).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2rT0f.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2rT0f.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Inexpensive diamond sharpening 3, stropping and results&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the strop was homemade from scraps the total cost of the sharpening equipment used here was €8 (equivalent to approximately $9 at the time of purchase).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you'd like to take this further I would still argue against buying the expensive plates. They're undeniably very good and seem to hold up well to use, but they're expensive compared to viable alternatives, e.g. oilstones, or steel plates charged with diamond paste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're interested in more on the latter see this page from Bob Strawn, &lt;a href=&quot;http://battlering.com/overkillsharp.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Overkillsharp™ Honing Method&lt;/a&gt;. If you source the diamond pastes directly from a Chinese supplier a full setup of five, even ten, plates can cost &lt;em&gt;less than a quarter&lt;/em&gt; of a single DMT plate!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T08:38:09.460" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2406" CreationDate="2015-09-18T11:12:04.343" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are generally speaking two ways people go about this kind of work these days, using a router or jigsaw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Router&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the router you'd use a suitable straight-cutting bit with a bearing guide in conjunction with a template made from thinner material, running the bearing carefully around the inside perimeter of the template while being careful to avoid the router wandering into what will be the door. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good material for the template would be 1/4&quot; (6mm) tempered hardboard, but thinner plywood or even solid wood could be used. The rounded corners of the opening would normally be drilled using a suitable bit, either a Forstner or a flat (spade) bit. A hole-saw could also be used if one of the right size is available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Jigsaw&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Internal jigsaw cuts are normally started in a drilled hole but some guides show a technique where you carefully plunge a suitable saw blade (with the saw running) into the material. With the latter technique in particular I would do some test cutting on scraps of your plywood to refine technique before committing to the final cut. Practice doing the curved cuts would also be advisable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The radiused corners would generally be cut freehand with a jigsaw (working to a marked line obviously) and while you can cut the straight sides freehand as well you're more likely to ensure good results if you create a basic fence setup. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the simplest this would just be four lengths of wood clamped at a suitable distance from the marked lines, this distance being the measurement from the side of the blade to the edge of the jigsaw's baseplate or 'shoe'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In use the baseplate would then be carefully run along the edges of each of the boards to make the straight cuts, again being careful not to drift away from the edges into the door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: if both faces of the plywood need to have the best surface possible then it's worth investing in a good blade made specially for clean cutting of plywood. Some blades give a good top surface, others a good bottom, but the best will give good results on both sides of the board (generally these will be &lt;em&gt;reverse-tooth blades&lt;/em&gt;, where the teeth face downwards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T11:12:04.343" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2406" CreationDate="2015-09-18T19:23:53.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the tools in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/2408/128&quot;&gt;wonderful answer from Graphus&lt;/a&gt; are not available to you two saws would do this for you just as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;regular hand saw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;keyhole or compass saw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8j46A.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8j46A.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Keyhole/Compass&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://p.globalsources.com/IMAGES/PDT/B1063180953/Compass-saw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;globalsources.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First the hand saw would be for the long straight cuts and you could switch to the keyhole saw for the curves. The first real problem you have is making the first cuts to fit the saws in. I suppose you could drill in with a small bit (that you are not attached to) and pull it along carefully. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that you are looking for nice parallel cuts so this question covers some techniques that should help: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/27/when-using-a-hand-saw-how-do-i-cut-a-straight-line&quot;&gt;When using a hand saw, how do I cut a straight line?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see your door vision a protential issue since you would usually need a nice gap between the door and the frame. Especially over time one the weight of the door and wood settle. I think the trade off of a larger space might be advantageous in this case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2019-04-23T23:40:41.713" LastActivityDate="2019-04-23T23:40:41.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2413" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-19T02:59:46.847" Score="11" ViewCount="10507" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been watching and reading about dovetails and you see workers put certain angle on their tails and pins. These angles can be decribed with number sets such as 1:6, 1:8 and other examples. Router bits would also be marketed with those numbers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most woodworkers will swear by certains numbers and insist that those are the only ones they would do. Even the commercial dovetail markers are branded with these values. There are some that would just free hand an angle but stay true to one of these angles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the significance of the numbers and does it matter which ones I use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2015-09-19T02:59:46.847" Title="When it comes to dovetails what is the significance of 1:6,1:7,1:8" Tags="|joinery|measurement|dovetail|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2413" CreationDate="2015-09-19T02:59:46.847" Score="10" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is the significance of the numbers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They represent ratios that determine a dovetails angle. So in the case of 1:6 - for every unit you move up you also move 6 units over. These ratios are not &lt;em&gt;usually&lt;/em&gt; mixed or changed on a single project. A simple trick to getting perfect angles, and to illustrate my point, uses a bevel guage and square. The always amazing Roy Underhill demonstrates this in this video &quot;The Dovetail Variations&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fZk3H.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fZk3H.png&quot; alt=&quot;Setting the bevel guage&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hard to tell from the picture but the bevels handle is resting so the guide&#xA;itself is crossing 1 inch and 6 inches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using these tools the traditional woodworker could easily transfer any ratio to wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course there are many &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=49424&amp;amp;cat=1,42936,50298,49424&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;manufactured guides&lt;/a&gt; available as well that maintain these angles for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is a table that corresponds common ratios to angles. This way you can use whichever you are more comfortable with.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d8yHdm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d8yHdm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dovetable&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[D]oes it matter which ones I use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of schools of thought in this regard. In general many favour the 1:6 ratio but you will run into many who suggest using different ratios for hardwood and softwood. 1:8 for hardwood and 1:6 for softwood. However the exact ratio / angle is not important. What is important is the integrity of the overall joint.  Glen D. Huey on a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/editors-blog/dovetail-layout-what-ratio-or-degree&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;PopularWoodworking article&lt;/a&gt; words this sentiment well&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What’s important is that you don’t get the slope so steep that your tails break off and your joint caves. Or that you don’t get the slope too straight that your tails slip from the pins, or that your joint has to rely only on glue for its strength. Between those two extremes anything goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your tail breaks off while assembling the joint &lt;em&gt;one&lt;/em&gt; of the considerations might be your angle is too steep...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2015-09-19T02:59:46.847" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2415" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2422" CreationDate="2015-09-19T22:18:27.663" Score="4" ViewCount="241" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not done woodworking much before and a friend invited me to build something...  I have it all planned out in my head but I don't know what software is available etc for making a good template that my friend can follow...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1156" LastEditorUserId="1156" LastEditDate="2015-09-19T22:56:38.790" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T01:11:39.623" Title="Good way to illustrate project / make a template of my small wood phone dock project? (CAD)?" Tags="|design|drawer|planning|drawing|template|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2415" CreationDate="2015-09-20T03:34:05.680" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most woodworkers who do CAD-like renderings these days are using SketchUp; the free version is pretty decent and lots of online tutorials exist. This is an observation, not a recommendation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="126" LastEditDate="2015-09-20T12:17:41.893" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T12:17:41.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="199" CreationDate="2015-09-20T05:55:07.387" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A power tool manufacturer may provide noise information either voluntarily, or because local regulations require them to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the European Union, getting the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CE_marking&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CE marking&lt;/a&gt; requires the machine manufacturer to provide the measured emission sound pressure level if it exceeds 70dB(A). This data has to be specified in the product manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the above, if the power tool or woodworking machine in question is sold both in your region and in the EU (chances for well-known brands are good, EU being an 500 million people market), the EU version of the User's Manual will be a good source for noise information. Sometimes this is also displayed in the product specification on the website of the manufacturer or distributor, given it is an important property of the product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, the manual of my Hitachi power drill carrying the CE mark contains the following information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The measured values were determined accoring to EN60745 and declared in accordance with ISO 4871.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Measured A-weighted sound power level: 104 dB (A)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Measured A-weighted sound pressure level: 93 dB (A)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Uncertainty KpA: 3 dB(A)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EU manuals for household appliances, etc. will often specify noise information even if it's less than 70dB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="335" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T05:55:07.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="199" CreationDate="2015-09-20T11:32:27.913" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of misconceptions in your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, sone does not translate to dB. Not in any way. Sone is a psychoacustic figure that tries to model the amount of discomfort caused by noise. Louder noise at other (usually lower) frequencies, or even the same frequencies with different harmonics may very well have a significantly lower sone rating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;dB on the other hand directly corresponds to the signal strength, i.e. how much energy is in the sound wave. This may not be what is causing discomfort, but it is what is decisive for whether hair cells are damaged or not, and how fast (which is what causes hearing impairment!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The statement &quot;hearing protection is necessary at these levels&quot; (104-110 dB) is wrong, too. Hearing protection is necessary &lt;em&gt;at much lower levels already&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The important difference between sound levels in the 80-90 dB range and levels in the 100-110 range is that you can (occasionally) support one for minutes without taking permanent damage whereas the other will cause permanent damage within seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For long-lasting exposure measured in tens of minutes or even hours (such as you will have over an afternoon of woodworking), hearing protection is not optional or something that is only needed at the highest level of noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that in mind, it actually becomes somewhat unimportant whether a machine has 90 or 95dB. You need hearing protection in any case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Now to answer (or trying to answer) the question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least in the EU, there exist many binding restrictions for any kind of machine or tool, both on the allowed amount of noise emission and it is compulsatory to measure and document the actual levels. There are several different regulations for inside and outside work, and for hobby and professional work, so overall it's so complicated that an average person without a degree in law can't be sure.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For example, my lawn mower must comply with 2005/88/EG, which says that it may not exceed 80dB, and it must have a sticker with a certificate that says it doesn't. The concrete compactor used at the building site down the road, on the other hand, is allowed to have 110dB &lt;em&gt;but may exceed that exceptionally&lt;/em&gt; and doesn't need a certification sticker, although it is equally used exterior (but it's a different class of tool, and for professional use).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, since the noise level depends on what you feed to a machine, some machines will only have a &quot;typical&quot; or &quot;idle&quot; noise rating, to which you can add &lt;em&gt;at least&lt;/em&gt; 10dB if not 20dB when in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice, the information can be hard to find (you would expect to find it in the data sheet or the technical safety instructions of every product). However, you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; usually find the noise rating if you invest a little time looking. Cheap manufacturers will only do the bare minimum required by the law, better manufacturers will give you two ratings, one when the machine is running idle and one when it's cutting through wood, and some will specify an error margin (typically 3dB).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example my dust collector has a rating of 71dB +/- 3dB, my plunge router is at 93dB +/- 3dB &quot;under typical conditions&quot; (it depends on what kind of bit, and what kind of wood you use). That is about the same noise level as usually specified for a processional grade planer running idle.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Some manufacturers seem to have found a legal way to avoid openly publishing the noise rating (for example, there seems to be no way to find a noise rating to the Mafell Erika series, which is the single best known professional grade pull-push saw -- other than owning one and crawling under it to read the little sticker on the bottom).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to summarize, while you will maybe not find a rating for the one machine that you are interested in, you will surely find a rating for a similar machine, which will be roughly in the same ballpark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="135" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T11:32:27.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2420" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2424" CreationDate="2015-09-20T16:38:27.877" Score="6" ViewCount="442" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got small patterns cut out, about 5cmx5cm, from 12mm ply wood and glued together to form 24mm thick pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to file down the sides to get closer to the pattern (that I drew on the pieces) as well as having the sides at about 10 degrees tapered. (I'm building a mould and the 10 degrees is the release angle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question, as a lazy hobbyist, is, how do I sand down the edge of the ply wood at 10 degrees off square?&#xA;(I have a flat hand file, sand paper, mouse sander, table mounted disk sanding machine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you in advance...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T19:16:05.813" Title="Sanding/filing small patterns at an angle" Tags="|sanding|plywood|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2420" CreationDate="2015-09-20T17:15:52.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although it's possible to do this sanding manually I would definitely not want to attempt it myself! It would take an age and anyway I prefer not to do this kind of work entirely by sanding, because turning wood into dust is not what I took the hobby up for, but if I had to I'd want to use a belt sander (the power sander ideally suited to bulk removal, and capable of good accuracy if used with care).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given only the tools you list I would prefer to use the file for the bulk of the work, but whether that's a good way to go is highly dependent on the file (single-cut or double, how fine, worn or not worn etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though I'm a big fan of rasps and files and consider them under-utilised in woodworking they still make dust, and I'm a firm believer in the motto &lt;em&gt;shavings &gt; dust&lt;/em&gt;, which in this case means I would prefer to have the bulk of the shaping done prior to using a file — by paring with a chisel or carving/whittling knife (very sharp of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T17:15:52.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2415" CreationDate="2015-09-20T20:23:47.900" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say that CAD is not necessarily your best option. Don't get me wrong. CAD is a great thing and learning any CAD software will be a very handy thing to have up your sleeve. I highly recommend learning any CAD software (no matter how limited or advanced)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there are a few problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have not done woodworking much before&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of CAD software as a helper to create (mostly) any 3D geometry. Unless you have some very advanced CAD software, it will not tell you if that geometry makes any sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can spend hours creating something, which might be hard or impossible to manufacture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;making a good template that my friend can follow...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's possible and what not can be hard to tell. It depends on what material (wood) is available and what tools are available to shape or modify it. Maybe your design is valid, but your friend lacks the right router bit to do it. Chances are that he &lt;strong&gt;cannot&lt;/strong&gt; follow it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;my small wood phone dock project&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting with a small project is a great idea! It can be easy to bite off more than one can chew, but with a small project it's easy to finish it.&#xA;And for a small project, you have to ask yourself if CAD isn't overkill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my suggestions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Design the project with your friend together. Don't sit alone in the basement for 3 months designing something in some CAD program that cannot be manufactured. The important thing is to understand what's possible with wood and what isn't. This way you can understand the important details of your design that make it either hard or easy to make. This depends on what tools and wood are available to your friend, which is why I recommend doing it together with him.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Doing the design with your friend allows him to understand you. An ongoing communication is a lot easier to understand than just throwing a technical drawing at somebody &quot;I want this done Tuesday!&quot;. Make simple sketches (on paper or any drawing program) to document what you both agree on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(optional) if you want to get into CAD, create a 3D part from the sketches. This is easier for you now, because you know the end result. You are not learning the CAD program and figuring out the design at the same time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="443" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T20:23:47.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2420" CreationDate="2015-09-21T10:56:52.407" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;On your table mounted disk sanding machine; build top on the table sloped at 10 degrees.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This only works on convex forms.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For concave parts us a piece of wood at 10 degrees to aim your file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T10:56:52.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2388" CreationDate="2015-09-21T13:50:08.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't get stuck on creating a round hole.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As few as 3 points are enough to hold the copy ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is an image on how to create &quot;holes&quot; on a row with good accuracy; without the &quot;holes&quot; being round. The black is wood (or aluminium) and the grey is your copy ring.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;With some thinking one can even make it take different copy ring sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/awmuK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/awmuK.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T13:50:08.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2426" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-21T18:39:59.620" Score="7" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;As some know I was experimenting with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Steel-Wool-and-Vinegar-Wood-AgingEbonizingWeathe/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;making my own stain&lt;/a&gt; using vinegar and nails removed pallets. I used white vinegar and a couple hundred nails in a 5 gallon pail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end I have a stain that is working but the results are not what I expected so I was wondering if someone might be able to determine where I went wrong. In hindsight I can think of a few specific things that changed the outcome. Outside of the general process of putting nails in vinegar I did the following things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Concoction was left in the pail for about 3 weeks. Life got in the way. Most the tutorials about this sort of thing suggest a week at most. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There was a large amount of what I can describe as rust foam (it was about 4 inches high above the liquid). I was not sure how to separate it from the liquid so I just mixed it all together. (This would be why my results are &lt;em&gt;slightly&lt;/em&gt; red / orange where it should have just darkened.) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I might have used too many nails but I didn't think it would hurt. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know from an &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/2237/128&quot;&gt;answer to another related question&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In reality you just need iron and vinegar. Rusty metal is no more or less desirable here&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so it is possible I put myself in this position by using too much rust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the day I wanted to know how can I clean this pile of nails? In theory most of the rust should be gone and I just need to clean them and I could use them again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think the &quot;rust foam&quot; was unavoidable? How could I have removed the liquid from the foam?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is a picture after I poured almost all the liquid out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JpunB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JpunB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ol&amp;#39; Rust Bucket&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T10:04:39.727" Title="Questions about my custom stain and cleanup" Tags="|staining|nails|clean-up|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2426" CreationDate="2015-09-22T10:04:39.727" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Concoction was left in the pail for about 3 weeks. Life got in the way. Most the tutorials about this sort of thing suggest a week at most. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not a problem. The goal is ideally to convert all of the acetic acid to iron acetate, so giving it longer is &lt;em&gt;advisable&lt;/em&gt;, not a bad thing in any way. As I've alluded to previously, most guides to this sort of thing are woefully light on important details!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First time I tested out making some iron acetate solution I used a small wad of steel wool in a small jar of vinegar and I left it soaking for so long it dissolved entirely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There was a large amount of what I can describe as rust foam &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tricky to spoon off because of your setup, which I'd have done as a first step (similar to skimming foam off the top of simmering stock or when boiling down jam). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think filtering through a coffee filter will take care of most/all of it. I've had this myself and I do remember that the liquid does eventually go clear (to be specific, not cloudy) on its own, I think the fine rust particles just settle out of the solution and form a layer on the bottom of the jar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I might have used too many nails but I didn't think it would hurt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nope, again the goal is to maximise your production of iron acetate. If you provide an excess of iron it helps to ensure this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the end of the day I wanted to know how can I clean this pile of nails? In theory most of the rust should be gone and I just need to clean them and I could use them again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you remove them from the vinegar they will re-rust &lt;em&gt;precipitously&lt;/em&gt; — once exposed to air they can start to turn a sort of dark straw colour literally in front of your eyes, a process called flash-rusting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So first thing to do is simply to rinse them off with plenty of clean water. Some people like to neutralise the reaction with an alkaline solution (e.g. baking soda or washing soda dissolved in warm water) and if you want to err on the side of caution do this, then rinse one last time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you need to dry them out quickly and get a bit of oil or wax on them to stave off future rusting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how I'd approach drying them, you could simply dry them off roughly and then lay them out in a single layer and give them a blast of WD-40, it will drive water from the surface of the metal (&lt;a href=&quot;http://wd40.com/cool-stuff/myths-legends-fun-facts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the WD in the name stands for Water Displacement&lt;/a&gt;). It's hard to tell how many nails you're dealing with there so this could require quite a bit of WD-40.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you'd prefer not to use the above method what I think I would do is dry them fairly thoroughly with one or more towels, then put them in a shallow tray in a warm oven to fully dry out. They may rust a bit before they've had a chance to completely dry but it's just light surface rust and not a big deal; typically you won't even see it once you oil them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To oil the nails efficiently, the pail you used to soak the nails in looks like it has a lid, if so once it has been cleaned and dried throw the dry nails back in there with a spoonful of oil, then just rolling it back and forth for some minutes should be enough to evenly coat them all in a light film of oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any oil will do, including a vegetable oil (it will go rancid eventually but this is not a problem, it just smells a bit) but use mineral oil or baby oil if you want to avoid this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T10:04:39.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2428" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-22T15:59:30.277" Score="4" ViewCount="284" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I am using larger hand saws, like my big rip saw, I have a problem when I pull back. The blade &quot;buckles&quot; and flaps back and forth. As a result pulling the blade back through is harder and the blade &quot;skips&quot; back through. These are Western saws to clarify. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had though that I was holding the saw at a slight angle but that was not helping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wish I could add more details here but I just need to know what I am doing wrong that is causing my saws to flop around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-09-22T16:30:11.163" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T00:25:48.747" Title="I need a critique on my sawing technique" Tags="|technique|hand-tools|tools|hand-saw|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2428" CreationDate="2015-09-22T16:23:40.017" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure you're applying force in line with the blade; shift your stance as necessary to achieve this. It may help to extend your index finger along the blade, to help you feel where the force should be going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not push down through the cut. Let the weight of the blade and its motion do the work, whenever possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For thin-kerf cuts, use a saw that had a stiffening bar along its back, or consider a Japanese-style pull saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-04-19T00:25:48.747" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T00:25:48.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2428" CreationDate="2015-09-22T17:58:25.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have a problem when I pull back. The blade &quot;buckles&quot; and flaps back and forth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I take this to mean that the far end of the saw (on the opposite side of the cut) flaps back and forth as you saw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's really all about the application of the force.  If you don't apply force in line with the blade, you're going to get odd vibration and movement, and your cuts won't be straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, your saw could be binding in the kerf.  This is either caused by the kerf closing in on itself due to the wood warping or just friction between the blade and the wood.  In the latter case, your saw could have an insufficient amount of set or just needs a quick swipe of lubrication along its length.  This friction will set up resonance along the length of the blade when you pull back, hence the wiggling on the far end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @keshlam says, let the weight of the saw do the work and don't force it down.  That will definitely buckle the saw when pushing it through the cut and could contribute to the friction issue I highlighted above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, as always, make sure your saw is properly sharpened and correctly set for best results.  I can't tell you how many times I've had a saw behave badly because I failed to do these two things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-09-22T19:50:17.880" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T19:50:17.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2420" CreationDate="2015-09-22T19:16:05.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having read and reread your question, I think that I now understand what you are trying to do.  One of the most inexpensive hand tools you can get is a coping saw.  Use a vice or some kind of clamp to hold the wood in place and gently make your cuts, eyeballing the ten degree angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T19:16:05.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2428" CreationDate="2015-09-22T22:11:29.387" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's part of the nature of Western-pattern saws, unless they're extremely finely tuned - they tend to &quot;flutter&quot; on the return stroke. That's because a thousandth of an inch of misalignment in the kerf triangulates out to a pretty large fraction of an inch at the far tip, so if the saw vibrates within the kerf, the tip will flutter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best advice I can lend, beyond cleaning off &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; rust, waxing the blade, and really fine-tuning the saw's set and sharpness, it so touch the side of the blade with the tip of your front hand's index finger on the return stroke. It doesn't take any great pressure, just enough to damp the blade's vibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1110" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T22:11:29.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2433" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2434" CreationDate="2015-09-23T01:38:24.307" Score="5" ViewCount="625" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if you happen to know what kind of hardware is used on the drawer for this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pEzC2_s7lqw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Coffee Table Arcade&lt;/a&gt;. Here is a picture of the drawer as it is being pulled out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CucC9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CucC9.png&quot; alt=&quot;Coffee table being opened&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then fully engaged&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BU0c0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BU0c0.png&quot; alt=&quot;Coffee table fully opened&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will notice that the controls are raised while the drawer is being pulled out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do some woodwork, and also design joysticks and MAME installations, and I was interesting in achieving the effect of this drawer, but i'm still in my learning curve and would like some indicators. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question was originally posted on &lt;a href=&quot;https://gaming.stackexchange.com/posts/237385/edit&quot;&gt;Arqade StackExchange&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1169" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:10:06.137" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T05:31:03.747" Title="Arcade Coffee Table drawer" Tags="|furniture|design|drawer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2433" CreationDate="2015-09-23T04:58:50.170" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The retracting control console may be a lot simpler than it looks. For example, you could simply route some diagonal grooves in the sides and insert (stainless steel) dowels into the side edges of the console top, near the rear.  The dowels follow the diagonal grooves in the sides, so when you pull out the console, the controls are raised and when you push it in the controls are lowered.  Here is a rough rendering of what such a design may look like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4MAW3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4MAW3.png&quot; alt=&quot;abstract design illustration of retracting control console&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-09-25T05:31:03.747" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T05:31:03.747" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2415" CreationDate="2015-09-23T05:32:57.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although this approach does not necessarily involve software, it can be helpful: prototype your designs by making full-size or scale models using cardboard or XPS foam (the pink or blue 4'x8' sheets of insulation foam sold at home improvement centers). Foam is easy to work with, cheaper than lumber, and you can even prototype complex joinery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T05:32:57.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2415" CreationDate="2015-09-24T01:11:39.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to go with Sketch up. One it's free and two if you use it a lot and need more options there is an awesome paid version for anything you would need to do. Also there is a site  woodgrears from a guy  Mathias  Wendel who designed something called Big Print program which is just what your looking for. Able to print stuff to scale them glue it to your piece and cut and drill. Check it out he is an awesome woodworker and had a You Tube channel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1106" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T01:11:39.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="940" CreationDate="2015-09-24T01:12:19.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;How to Identify Prints (Bamber Gascoigne} is a book that describes methods of making prints; in particular types of woodcuts, wood engravings; to determine what wood is right for the type of work you wish create it would help to know the possibilities. The image you show in your question appears to me to be better identified as a wood cut for which the birch plywood might serve, not as well for a wood engraving where an end grain is the norm, though early wood engravers often used edge grain for their work. Wood engravers tools are very specialized and are also described in the book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1171" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T01:12:19.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="940" CreationDate="2015-09-24T03:54:51.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to toss out the alternative: linoleum blocks are cheap and easy to cut. You don't get the entertainment/practice of working with and against wood grain,  but on the other hand they're (close to) type-height and thus easy to lock up in a letterpress. I did this one many years ago with nothing more than a pocketknife. Apologies for the slightly blurry photo; the edges are actually quite sharp and captured more detail than I expected. Actual size of the block is about 3x4 inches. I'm showing it both on white, and textured grey, paper; the ink is Delft Blue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pDCf8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Unicorn head outline, blue ink background surrounding white or grey paper&quot;&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2015-09-25T17:54:20.307" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T17:54:20.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2439" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2441" CreationDate="2015-09-24T16:14:02.393" Score="9" ViewCount="6443" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a cheap dining table out of cedar 2x4's. This is obviously not my first choice for wood but money was my limiting factor. I have planed them down to size and biscuit joined them together for the table top. The glue has been dried for about a week now and I'm noticing that the sides of the table are bowing downward about 1/4&quot; on each side. Is there a good way that I can stabilize the table top from underneath to fix/prevent the bowing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your reference, this is the design I created and am using for this project.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vQWq5.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vQWq5.png&quot; alt=&quot;Table Design&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1172" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T16:58:04.680" Title="Stabilizer for softwood tabletop that bows" Tags="|technique|bowing|tabletop|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2439" CreationDate="2015-09-24T16:27:51.610" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically there will either be cross pieces underneath, or &quot;breadboard ends&quot;, to keep a tabletop flat. Either way you have to allow for wood movement as the table expands and shrinks across the grain, which means the crosspiece gets attached in such a way that the top can slide relative to it, eg by screws going thru slotted holes. You'll notice that most picnic tables solve this by using individual boards rather than gluing up a solid table top, affixing each to the crosspieces with a single screw,  and leaving space between them for expansion when wet/humid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are things that can be done to reduce the tendency of a solid tabletop to bow, by letting the wood acclimate to the environment you intend to use it in before you start construction (which won't help you much for an outdoor table), managing grain direction so warp tends to average out, and just accepting that no matter how flat the pieces were you're going to have to flatten it again after glue-up. But the breadboard ends or equivalent are what &lt;em&gt;keep&lt;/em&gt; it flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T16:27:51.610" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2439" CreationDate="2015-09-24T16:58:04.680" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ideal 'fix' for this is probably to saw the table apart (yes I know, *gulp*) and flip a few of the boards over, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But going with what you have, two very traditional methods that were used to help keep tabletops flat were screwing the top to battens on the underside and breadboard ends. As a solution to your current obviously the first is more easily adopted of course so that's what I'll describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your design may already incorporate boards that run across the shorter dimension of the table that the legs attach to, in which case those can probably be used for this. Although you may wish to attach additional battens given that bowing has already occurred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not as simple as just driving screws through boards that run across the width of a tabletop. You need to account for what's generally described by the catch-all phrase &lt;em&gt;seasonal wood movement&lt;/em&gt; (sometimes shortened just to the even-less-useful &lt;em&gt;wood movement&lt;/em&gt;). This specifically refers to expansion and contraction of wood across the grain which on a wide tabletop can amount to a fairly significant dimensional change, e.g. 10-12mm or just under 1/2&quot;. Note that expansion along the grain is so small it can safely be ignored. For a little more detail on movement please see more in this previous Question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/908/what-general-considerations-do-i-need-to-take-into-account-for-wood-movement&quot;&gt;What general considerations do I need to take into account for wood movement?&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in this case you would enlarge the screw holes on each end of the battens, or in your existing front-to-back boards if there are any, so that the screws in those positions can move back and forth as needed during dimensional changes during the year. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/93xP7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/93xP7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this illustration assumes one screw on each end, there's no reason you can't use two for each batten as long as each one rides in a slot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T16:58:04.680" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2442" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2445" CreationDate="2015-09-24T21:05:15.813" Score="14" ViewCount="34487" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm an engineer and have designed several parts that are made on metal lathes.  I'm wondering why metal lathes aren't used for turning.  In particular I'm wondering why woodturners don't use a tool holder on a stage or tools that resemble metal lathe tools.  What is the advantage to manually holding your tools and using a tool rest?  Without knowing much about woodturning I would assume that it's next to impossible to get repeatable/super accurate results (or perhaps better stated I'd assume it must take years of experience to get the hand eye coordination down to get good results).  Perhaps the &quot;one of a kind&quot; nature of the process is part of the appeal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="566" LastActivityDate="2020-12-14T13:23:07.967" Title="Why are metal lathes not used for woodturning?" Tags="|turning|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2442" CreationDate="2015-09-24T21:39:39.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To start I'm pretty sure that metal lathes and wood lathes have different speeds they tend to use.  The two materials are very different.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Metals can take a level of accuracy impossible to achieve in wood.  Just sanding a piece on the lathe can take off mm to give it a nice finish.  So metal working lathe tools are going to be extreme overkill for your average wood project.  On top of that wood swells and contracts and bends depending on it's environment, so it is just as much an art form as it is science.  I've actually had bowls warping on the lathe just leaving it sit for an hour while I ate lunch.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also there are duplicators out there that can be mounted on a lathe for making pieces &quot;identical&quot; to each other.  they do exist.  It also means finding pieces that are similar and dried correctly to the right moisture content to help keep them stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T21:39:39.780" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2442" CreationDate="2015-09-24T21:40:14.360" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;organic&quot; nature of woodturning may be part of it -- its a kind or powered carving, after all, and many folks like the feel of wood responding to their hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that wood is softer than most metals may also have a lot to do with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So may the fact that tolerances are completely different. Even when an &quot;exact fit&quot; is desired, it's not down to mils as metal often is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are jigs for doing more precise woodturning. They're mostly for special cases or large-scale production. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T21:40:14.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2442" CreationDate="2015-09-24T23:06:43.733" Score="11" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm wondering why metal lathes aren't used for [wood]turning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my mind, it comes down to 3 Cs: cost, convenience, and creativity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cost:&lt;/strong&gt; From what I've seen metal lathes cost more than wood lathes when you consider similar capacities and features.  This is not surprising given the additional tooling necessary to work a metal lathe.  One might argue that buying woodturning tools can also be expensive compared to buying HSS or cobalt metal lathe keys.  However, the metal keys still need to be ground to different shapes to achieve different profiles, so there is still plenty of cost associated with the metal lathe tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Convenience:&lt;/strong&gt;  Setting up a metal lathe can be a pain, especially compared to a wood lathe.  You have to get your tooling set up all in the right places and adjust your tools to feed in the proper direction, at the proper rate.  Wood lathes, you just chuck your piece, set the tool rest, and go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Creativity:&lt;/strong&gt;  I challenge any metal lathe user to create a Windsor chair leg more efficiently than an experienced turner.  Sure, the metal lathe user could make the first one and set up a template for his keys to follow, but I suspect that doing so would result in a fairly rough finish with a lot of woods.  Good turners can make a chair leg that's finish-ready (no sanding) with just a skew chisel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having manual control of the cutting tool means that you can feel when the wood is having issues cutting, which could be a sign that it's about to fail, that your edge is dull, or that you're just using the wrong cutting angle.  You're more intimate with the actual piece and can better feel what's going on, instead of plugging it into a machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, with the cutting tool in your hands, you can much more easily make changes to your design on the fly just by flicking your wrist (this is an exaggeration, don't flick your wrist when turning or you'll suffer a catch).  I know the way I work a lathe, having to have a metal lathe tooling setup have to play catchup to my brain's creativity would be incredibly frustrating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth noting that one may combine both worlds in a way.  I've made a couple Oland Tools (image below) that make use of metal lathe keys.  It's nifty since you can change out the tool heads easily and have quite a few profiles open to you.  Basically, you drill a hole in the end of a metal rod large enough to fit an HSS key and hold it in place with a set screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OMjqU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OMjqU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;oland tool&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/showthread.php?t=15246&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, this is not to say that a metal lathe can't be used.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J2i5YIncv1U&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lots of smoking pipe makers use them&lt;/a&gt; due to the greater precision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T23:06:43.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2446" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-25T01:55:29.687" Score="7" ViewCount="9563" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made some &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/projects/16736&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Canexican saw horses&lt;/a&gt; for a friend. I liked the design feature that made it so the 2x4 sat in a perfect recess and could be changed out easily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K2Cl1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K2Cl1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Saw horses in my shop&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was cutting the angles with the jigsaw, using a 3 inch blade, and &lt;em&gt;every&lt;/em&gt; cut I made was not straight. I measured some of the angles at 10 degrees which is awful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I just run my jigsaw in the air I can see the blade at the end move about 2 cms. I would have expected that to be normal since nothing is support it out that far. Not sure if that is a factor. The blade I was using was not a fine tooth (8 teeth per inch) so there should have been enough space for dust to get out. I &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; don't think that is the issue since the problem starts at the initial cut as supposed to starting straight and getting progressively worse. Speed didn't seem to matter. I started slow and fast (to attempt to prove a point) and the results were the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My jigsaw is a cheap Jobmate one that has served me well for sheet goods but I just cant use it for this reliably. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am doing wrong or it is possible my tool or blade are at fault here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2018-04-02T12:58:54.917" Title="My jigsaw is terrible at cutting vertically through a simple 2x4" Tags="|technique|power-tools|tolerance|jigsaw|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2446" CreationDate="2015-09-25T07:08:07.110" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Really, jigsaws are not the best tool for this job. They are far better at cutting through thinner board materials, though even then you may struggle to get a fully straight cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you say, nothing supports the blade at the end so it can easily wander off of its intended course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more expensive jigsaw may have better rollers/support for the blade though so that might help, but if you're going to be buying a new tool for this kind of job then I'd probably recommend a skillsaw or a chopsaw / mitresaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T07:08:07.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2448" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2450" CreationDate="2015-09-25T09:41:30.207" Score="9" ViewCount="1420" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a small doll's house for my daughter. This is my first project; I am a total beginner at woodworking, basically what I know is remembered from watching my dad 30 years ago :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's going pretty well, I have cut the panels, and even managed to get some perfect rectangles cut for windows; however when cutting them I noticed that of course, the plywood delaminates very easily - in fact much more easily that I expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A front view of what I was planning to do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Q3EL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Q3EL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I plan to make the base and main ceiling out of pine so I could screw into it for strength, however the floor was just going to be plywood glued, along with some mouldings as batons to increase the surface area along the side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this design be strong enough for the interior floor just with the glue? I know that the glue is stronger than the wood; my concern is that the top layer of plywood and glue will peel off and the floor will collapse if she bangs around too much (she's two and a half).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(There will be a back as well of course.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Matt mentioned dimensions may be important:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will be ~22cm x 34cm x 22cm (w x h x d)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plywood is 8mm thick; the pine is 15mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plywood is basically offcuts from my father in law, so is in &quot;been knocking around the workshop&quot; condition. Clean but a bit flaky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plywood has a paper thin veneer on one side in a reddish looking wood. I should have mentioned this actually, although I can just use the other side. I assume this was done for appearance - it is literally paper thin and flakes as soon as you bring a tool into the same room. I presume I should avoid gluing to this side altogether?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="876" LastEditorUserId="876" LastEditDate="2015-09-25T13:06:48.473" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T17:23:52.963" Title="Gluing plywood to plywood for doll's house floor" Tags="|glue|plywood|design|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2446" CreationDate="2015-09-25T11:10:01.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the blade is not exactly in line &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; you move the saw exactly in line it might wander off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try it like this: Take a piece of plywood or other cheap material, between half a meter and a meter in length. ( 2 feet plus/minus however many centimetres you like ). Then clamp a straight piece of something to said wooden piece.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Run the jigsay against the straight piece and saw away.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If the blade is out of line it will bend and wander to the side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T11:10:01.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2448" CreationDate="2015-09-25T12:31:04.987" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This would very much depend on the quality of your plywood which &lt;em&gt;sounds&lt;/em&gt; questionable. You also don't mention the thickness which would play a role here as well. The overall dimensions of the project are not shown either. This is a dollhouse after all so I can't imagine its size would be a huge factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For screwing onto the base: That should be fine. If you wanted to make it stronger gluing it as well would help as well as make sure you screw into face grain and not end grain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the middle panel as long as you make a support for the plywood to rest on I imagine it would be fine. However you could consider making a dado (slot) for the floor to slide into. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at designs online I see your ideas in play. The picture below has at least the back is for sure plywood and you can see glue on the joint for the roof in the upper right. Notice the partitions on the floors that add strength in the middle of the floors. Looking at the cut windows we can see that the whole design is just plywood and it is not a stretch to assume it is just glue holding the thing together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9oew3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9oew3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A doll house&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-09-25T17:23:52.963" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T17:23:52.963" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2448" CreationDate="2015-09-25T13:57:51.093" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that the glue is stronger than the wood;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to clarify something on this point, while this is widely said it's a little misleading. A well-made &lt;em&gt;glue joint&lt;/em&gt; is stronger than the wood itself, but not actually the glue itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important to make the distinction because even unconsciously believing the glue is inherently strong can lead to an &amp;quot;it'll do&amp;quot; attitude to creating tight joints, which will most definitely have an impact on strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this refers to conventional wood glues (PVA type), as well as polyurethane adhesives. Epoxies are different, and can give strong joints where the fit is loose because they have good gap-filling properties (especially if filled slightly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the floor was just going to be plywood glued, along with some mouldings as batons to increase the surface area along the side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this design be strong enough for the interior floor just with the glue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes it should be. Even thought this is not a critical structure in terms of having to take weight I wouldn't want to trust a glued butt joint for the plywood shelf, however, glueing in the proposed mouldings underneath will add a great deal of strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plywood has a paper thin veneer on one side in a reddish looking wood. ... I presume I should avoid gluing to this side altogether?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I refer to this in another &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2361/glue-and-orientation-of-2-sheets-of-plywood/2364#2364&quot;&gt;Answer&lt;/a&gt;, and yes I think ideally you wouldn't want to glue to this. It's not just that it's very thin, it seems far too friable to trust for any important bond since you can often flake it from the next ply using only your fingernails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re. the dados highlighted by Matt already, these are called &lt;em&gt;housing joints&lt;/em&gt; in the UK and I think other parts of the world that don't use American English so you might want to add that to your list of things to Google for to widen the scope of information you can find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T13:57:51.093" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2442" CreationDate="2015-09-25T14:55:59.000" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two factors are :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speed : metal lathes tend to run at lower speeds, often 1000rpm and lower. This is less prominent with modern lathes and carbide tooling, but with HSS and carbon steel tooling you have to limit the cutting speed to avoid overheating and softening the tool. (It's fun when that titanium billet work-hardens and your drill bit suddenly starts glowing red...) I understand woodturning works better at higher speeds, giving a finer finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood dust contains abrasive silicates : you don't want that stuff grinding away the bed on your precision metal lathe, if you want to achieve 0.0001 inch accuracy on metal afterwards!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally it's not completely unknown to turn metal freehand, with a toolrest and gravers ... &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Watchmaker#/media/File:Watchmaker%27s_Lathe_in_use.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;watchmakers lathes&lt;/a&gt; are set up for this. Metal removal rate is minuscule, but that doesn't matter because the workpieces are tiny to start with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1177" LastEditorUserId="1177" LastEditDate="2015-09-26T10:14:00.057" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T10:14:00.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2448" CreationDate="2015-09-25T15:06:38.220" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's an indirect question in here about the quality of plywood that I think is worth discussing.  Plywood comes in all types and quality levels, both from a finish perspective as well as overall strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most plywood, especially what you would find at a local home improvement store is intended for construction. Frequently this material contains voids at certain points throughout the layers.  Because the material is not visible, the exposed layers aren't chosen for cosmetic properties.  Quality varies by price and the cheaper stuff is used for things like temporary fences or covering a broken window.  Higher quality material would be used for things like sub-floors or sheathing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Baltic birch is one specific type of plywood that is frequently used in woodworking.  This product should not contain any voids between layers so it is a much more solid product overall. It also takes well to rounded corners and chamfers.  Usually at least one veneer face is suitable for finishing, and the higher end product (most expensive) will have high quality veneers on both sides. You should not have problems with thin layers sepearting when using Baltic birch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definitely make sure that you are using the right product for the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T15:06:38.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2442" CreationDate="2015-09-25T15:24:06.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main difference that I have seen is the material removal rates of manual metal lathes are much less by design than can be accomplished by hand on a wood lathe. Like try getting a 100+ IPM traverse rate on a manual lathe compared with holding the tool in your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same can be said with a manual mill and handheld router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though for CNC lathes there are much less differences between CNC metal and CNC wood lathes, machine rigidity requirements are probably the biggest difference there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="453" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T15:24:06.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2306" CreationDate="2015-09-25T16:19:39.733" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the lumberyard selected and delivered it, I would feel comfortable returning for exchange any pieces that I could not use due to either straightness or cosmetic defects. Some yard workers will use their discretion to dump otherwise un-sellable boards on a delivery knowing that an average contractor over-buys and will sort through the pieces to find boards that work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1178" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T16:19:39.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2446" CreationDate="2015-09-26T01:22:50.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/2449/128&quot;&gt;LosManos's answer&lt;/a&gt; and my comments about my wandering blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better variation of his idea for a fence would be to make a &quot;track board&quot; (small piece of plywood or sheet good) and cut a straight line through it. It does not have to be long just enough to get the cut started. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use that on the bottom, with clamps, of the piece that is actually being cut. Have it stick out at least the blades width so that it will guide while the cut is being made. Assuming the blade is long enough it should get the cut started vertically without bouncing of the guide track / board. Once the cut is started then it should remain straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think my jigsaw is just cheap. Like Graphus said I could have just used a saw but maybe this and &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/2449/128&quot;&gt;LosManos's answer&lt;/a&gt; can make my jigsaw just a little more useful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T02:16:32.143" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="940" CreationDate="2015-09-26T10:06:39.043" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Europe there is an old tradition for wooden cookie and sugar-ware moulds. It dates from the 13th century. Details can become very fine. Materials applied include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Easy:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;birch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hard:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;fruit tree (like pear or apple)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;blackthorn&lt;br&gt;&#xA;beech&lt;br&gt;&#xA;ash&lt;br&gt;&#xA;teak&lt;br&gt;&#xA;walnut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/48Z1W.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/48Z1W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sample&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;References (Dutch!):&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.goeievraag.nl/eten-drinken/koken-recepten/vraag/373532/houtsoort-gebruikt-speculaasplank&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.goeievraag.nl/eten-drinken/koken-recepten/vraag/373532/houtsoort-gebruikt-speculaasplank&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scriptiebank.be/sites/default/files/8d00282b0fe6e797c482ab19555b90fd.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.scriptiebank.be/sites/default/files/8d00282b0fe6e797c482ab19555b90fd.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1129" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T10:06:39.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2458" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-26T16:27:02.110" Score="6" ViewCount="1270" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had made a &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; simple bow saw during my summer holidays. I was trying to see if I could make a project from start to finish using only hand tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cut some poplar (Mostly guessing but the shape of the leaf makes me pretty sure.) and started shaping the log. I used a draw knife as a froe (for lack of better option). I then made a bench hook and though between the draw knife and a plane I could get the wood fairly flat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A2hAy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A2hAy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is where I was mistaken. Using both of those tools on the wood created the same problem. Instead of slicing the wood it looked like it was tearing little strips instead. Those got caught on the blades of the respective tools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I had an exercise in futilely. With every push or pull I got fibres stuck on the blade. Those would prevent the blade from making another cut. So I would remove those and be able to &lt;em&gt;maybe&lt;/em&gt; make one more cut. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I eventually gave up and just used my axe to finish. It was rougher but got the job done. I know that green wood will eventually &quot;settle&quot; once it dries but I wanted to try and see what I could do before hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I even bothered, and leading to my question, was because Roy Underhill gave me the impression that working was easier. He did not suggest that all the work could be done while green but that initial shaping was easier. There was one specific video where a gentleman made a Winsdor chair and made the same comment when he was using his draw knife on some red oak. In the case with Roy he was making a grease pot out of some black walnut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was my green wood too green and I should have waited longer? Am  I not interpreting the comments on the work-ability of green wood? Perhaps the wood species I was working on is not the green work-able kind?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T15:30:54.540" Title="When is the ideal time to work green wood" Tags="|wood|plane|green-wood|hand-planing|draw-knife|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2459" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-26T20:31:35.663" Score="7" ViewCount="2577" Body="&lt;p&gt;I applied oil based stain on a old cabinet after stripping and sanding. It dried a week (but it was humid).  I applied a coat of water based poly and had no problems, just a light coat. When I try to put on a second coat, it beads up immediately. I waited 3 weeks and tried again (still a little humid) but the same thing happened.  The veneer cannot handle much more sanding, what can I try to get another coat of finish on?  Oil based poly? Shellac?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1182" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T10:08:04.667" Title="A second coat of water based poly beads up when applied.. What is the problem?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2458" CreationDate="2015-09-26T21:05:18.840" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Was my green wood too green and I should have waited longer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, I don't think there's such a thing as &quot;too green.&quot;  Green wood is nice to work because its moisture content means it is still quite soft, even for so-called &quot;hard&quot; woods like oak and hickory.  Working green oak is a dream compared to seasoned oak.  However, as with all unseasoned wood, there is the unavoidable risk of it warping after drying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Perhaps the wood species I was working on is not the green work-able kind?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've worked poplar fresh off the tree with no issues, as well as other species.  Hickory and oak work just fine freshly cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your tree could be &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aspen&quot;&gt;aspen&lt;/a&gt; based on similar leaf shape, but I have no reason to believe aspen is any less workable when green.  This assumes that you're talking about &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Populus_sect._Populus&quot;&gt;true poplars&lt;/a&gt;, of which &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liriodendron_tulipifera&quot;&gt;tulip poplar&lt;/a&gt; (technically a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liriodendron&quot;&gt;magnolia&lt;/a&gt;) is not.  However, tulip poplar still works perfectly well when freshly cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Am I not interpreting the comments on the work-ability of green wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect your issues with workability stem more from the sharpness of your tools or your methodology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A properly sharpened drawknife, when drawn across a piece of green wood with a slicing cut and cutting &lt;em&gt;with&lt;/em&gt; the grain, should glide almost effortlessly through the wood.  Going against the grain, it should split off hunks with ease (assuming it's a splittable wood, so not so much with elm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;With every push or pull I got fibres stuck on the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting little chunks of wood stuck in a drawknife is part of the process, though it seems like you're experiencing it more than is normal.  My gut feeling is that this is due to sharpness of the blade.  It could just be the piece of wood you're using, too.  For example, if it has undulating grain, the rapid switching of the grain orientation means you keep switching from downhill to uphill cutting, or you're splitting off little chunks intermittently that get stuck on the blade.  If I find that a piece of wood isn't working well, I just junk it and move on.  Green woodworking is much easier (and more enjoyable) if you properly select the pieces to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T21:05:18.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2461" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2463" CreationDate="2015-09-26T23:22:40.250" Score="6" ViewCount="248" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of making a desk with a top made from engineered bamboo, and I'm wondering whether I need to follow expansion rules (e.g., breadboard ends) when building the tabletop.  I'm unfamiliar with bamboo's tendency to expand based on environmental factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T09:54:39.343" Title="Does engineered bamboo require considerations for expansion and contraction?" Tags="|design|durability|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2459" CreationDate="2015-09-27T03:15:27.300" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't apply a water based finish directly on an oil based finish.  Put a coat of dewaxed shellac on it, then you can apply your water based finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T03:15:27.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2461" CreationDate="2015-09-27T09:54:39.343" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bamboo in general&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bamboo, like any woody material, does respond to changes in humidity and its dimensions do change as a result. This expansion and contraction, like with wood, takes place primary across the grain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;Engineered bamboo&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could be one of a number of things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bamboo product is just a simple glue-up (like a &quot;butcher block&quot; countertop material on a smaller scale) then the grain orientation in each strand is important. If the bamboo is arranged face-up some expansion will occur; if so, best to treat as though it was wood and attach it accordingly. If on the other hand it's arranged edge-up you could probably safely ignore it; there will be some movement but it will be very small, small enough that at table sizes it is negligible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, however, the bamboo product is a layered material with strips running one way on the surface and cross-strands of bamboo underneath at 90° then it's like plywood, and just as with plywood you can safely ignore dimensional changes due to changes in moisture level. It might also have a bamboo surface, almost a veneer, with a composite layer as a core, and there too movement is not an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm wondering whether I need to follow expansion rules (e.g., breadboard ends) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Breadboard ends aren't a requirement to deal with seasonal wood movement. They just need to be made/implemented correctly to allow for it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These days breadboards are generally done just for appearances, but the practical purpose of breadboards was to help ensure tabletops stayed flat (didn't cup). This was much more of a problem historically because boards were generally much wider than today, at the extreme entire tabletops could be a single board. These can be more prone to bowing than the glued-up panels used almost invariably today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T09:54:39.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2459" CreationDate="2015-09-27T10:08:04.667" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a rule, waiting a week wouldn't normally be long enough after using an oil-based stain before you can safely apply a waterbased finish. You can get away with it, particularly if conditions are ideal, but it's not advisable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it's been proven not to be needed, shellac is an ideal intermediate coat to use here to speed the process up, and to help ensure adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The veneer cannot handle much more sanding&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to sand further it would be &lt;em&gt;scuff sanding&lt;/em&gt; which should by definition be light enough that the veneer is not in any danger (as you're not sanding through the finish).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted to err on the side of caution you could scuff using Scotch-Brite or a similar conformable abrasive instead (although avoid steel wool since you're using a waterbased finish).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option worth trying — test in an inconspicuous spot — is to literally clean the surface, wiping down with warm soapy water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible cause:&lt;/strong&gt; what can occur with waterbased varnishes is that some of the hidden or undocumented ingredients in the formulation can rise to the surface during drying and these lead to beading problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T10:08:04.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2466" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2469" CreationDate="2015-09-28T12:06:34.600" Score="5" ViewCount="21653" Body="&lt;p&gt;As we learned from &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2068/can-i-apply-water-based-polyurethane-over-an-oil-based-stain&quot;&gt;Can I apply water-based polyurethane over an oil based stain?&lt;/a&gt; it is possible to do just that under certain conditions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to broaden that question if possible. Finishing is not my strong point (yet) but I have understood that stains and oils both work by penetrating the wood. With that in mind am I making the oils less effective by applying them over a stain? Perhaps I am just ensuring that I will need to provide more coats of oil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using oils with stains are there any generalized guidelines that should be followed? This question is dependent on my assumption that &lt;em&gt;stains and oils both work by penetrating the wood&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2020-05-25T18:13:38.053" Title="Applying oils over stains" Tags="|finishing|staining|oiling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2467" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2468" CreationDate="2015-09-28T14:08:06.403" Score="4" ViewCount="1064" Body="&lt;p&gt;Me &amp;amp; one of my friends were looking to build a 4 wheel pedal bike.  I wasn't sure what type of wood I should use for the job. I wanted a light but strong wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was looking to have 2x4s in the form of an &quot;X&quot;. And have the chain running above and below where the two pieces of wood meet, and the seat being above the chain. I have 10'' wheels for this build, but I can get other ones if needed.  I have a sketched drawing of what I had in mind, but it is more chicken scratch than a blueprint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1184" LastEditorUserId="1184" LastEditDate="2015-09-30T02:54:47.553" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T02:54:47.553" Title="What wood should I use to build my Custom Bike Frame?" Tags="|wood-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2467" CreationDate="2015-09-28T14:31:38.943" Score="4" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Bamboo&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first thought would be to use bamboo which is a hardwood but mostly hollow so it would also be light as well. Plenty of plans out there that involve hybrid bike frames with bamboo. Like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Bamboo-Bike-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one from instructables.com&lt;/a&gt; from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/member/BAMBOOBIKER/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BambooBiker&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cVYKL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cVYKL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bamboo Bike&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't have to pigeon-hole yourself with hybrids like what is pictured above. You could easily make the entire frame from bamboo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not built one myself but did look into it a couple of years ago. The great thing about the bamboo is you don't need to do a lot of shaping with the wood since it is already cylindrical in shape and lends well to modern bike designs. Note that there are &lt;em&gt;many&lt;/em&gt; varieties of bamboo and they are all not as strong as the next. I have some bamboo that grows in Canada but it is not near the strength of the typical bamboo you would imagine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Plywood&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would consider laminated plywood as well for its dimensional stability but the might jack up the weight a bit depending. So &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.ca/search?q=plywood+bike&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;biw=1280&amp;amp;bih=939&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0CAYQ_AUoAWoVChMImqHk1fmZyAIVCn6SCh1BbwLy#imgrc=_&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;many wonderful pictures of these&lt;/a&gt; on the internet. You can see some with, what I will presume is, steam bent wood so the frame is one visual piece. There are some open frame plywood bikes as well (hollow inside as supposed to being a solid frame) so that would be a consideration as well. Between this and bamboo you would have an easier time acquiring plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh be careful for cheap plywood. Some like baltic birch comes highly recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Other woods&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for other woods I don't have any specific advice and more of a warning. Having a lighter weight wood could have a trade off of stability. Lightweight and durable don't always go together. Shock resistance would be a key feature as well.  Some of the woods that do fit those criteria might be too expensive for use for a bike. This off course comes back to availability again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-09-28T20:28:40.453" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2466" CreationDate="2015-09-28T20:17:19.707" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;With that in mind am I making the oils less effective by applying them over a stain? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Broadly speaking that should be a no. Waterbased and alcohol-based stains leave the wood 'open', essentially as if it hadn't been stained. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil-based stains do somewhat close up the surface (much as a layer of finishing oil does) but in general they're not recommended to be used when doing an oil finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note here that an oil finish doesn't 'build' in the conventional sense, instead &lt;em&gt;it's the application process itself&lt;/em&gt; that makes most of the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This question is dependent on my assumption that stains and oils both work by penetrating the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes they both penetrate the surface fibres of the wood, although under normal circumstances very very shallowly (this is why it is so easy to damage a stained surface if you inadvertently sand through a film finish).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Perhaps I am just ensuring that I will need to provide more coats of oil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There should be no difference. The number of coats of oil you were intending to apply should stay the same, but how you do it may change after reading the below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oiling as commonly done today&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Many people are happy with just a few coats these days — as few as two, and three seems to be quite commonly recommended as a sort of ideal minimum. This is in part because of the long-winded application required for oils, where at best you're able to apply one coat per day. And given certain weather conditions waiting longer is definitely advisable, in the winter in an unheated workshop applying a half-dozen coats could easily require longer than a fortnight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How it used to be done&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The full traditional oiling regimen could take &lt;em&gt;an entire year&lt;/em&gt; from the point the woodworking was finished: one coat per day for a week, a coat per week for a month and then one coat per month for the rest of the year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, that is 21 applications of oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And in addition to that, traditionally you were supposed to oil once per year forever to maintain the finish. Any wonder why varnish was embraced as a significant step forward when it became widely and inexpensively available? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How we should be doing an oil finish&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In the modern world it makes sense that woodworkers are unable or unwilling to devote the time necessary for this, but another element of the traditional application method has also fallen by the wayside and it is something that should come back as it's more important than ever: what you do &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; you've oiled the wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All guides to oiling will say that you have to wipe off the excess oil from the surface but these days, with the emphasis on how easy an oil finish is to do, very often they say you're done at that point. And that's responsible for the lacklustre surface on much modern oiled furniture. Traditionally, after the excess oil was wiped away you then rubbed down the piece, &lt;em&gt;hard&lt;/em&gt;, and for a long time. There was no danger of leaving excess oil on the wood in the old days after buffing the surface for half an hour!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is this, the hard buffing, that is largely responsible for the true look of an oiled piece, not actually a build-up of oil within the wood fibres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-09-28T20:17:19.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2470" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2473" CreationDate="2015-09-29T07:08:40.507" Score="11" ViewCount="939" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the difference between a high-quality (e.g. $150+) and a cheapo (e.g. $20) bench plane?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two obvious things that come to mind are &lt;strong&gt;blade quality&lt;/strong&gt; (specifically, how well it holds an edge) and the amount of &lt;strong&gt;out-of-the box setup required&lt;/strong&gt; (e.g. lapping the base, cleaning off grease, sharpening the blade). But what if we replaced the blade in the cheap plane with the same high quality blade and a skilled worker tuned both planes? Is it just ergonomics &amp;amp; looks after that, or are there other qualities which set apart high quality (or even mid quality?) planes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1115" LastActivityDate="2017-02-03T09:25:15.573" Title="What makes a high quality bench plane?" Tags="|plane|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2470" CreationDate="2015-09-29T08:52:20.220" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not an expert with hand planes, but the main difference I can think about is precision - how precise is the body (flat sole, square and parallel sides, uniform width), how precise are the blade alignment mechanisms, how precise is the mouth of the plane, etc. Precision of the plane should have a direct impact on user friendliness and the final result. In a low quality plane it might take you 5 minutes to change the blade depth because every time you tighten the knob the blade shifts in unpredictable ways, or the blade might shift during planing (since the locking mechanism isn't tight enough).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the precision errors you can fix - if the sole is not flat you can lap it; if the blade's bevel is not square you can redo it. But some things you can't fix or would be hard and un-economical to do (for example, re-building the threads for the tightening knobs to eliminate backlash).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my experience, when buying a high quality expensive tool, you are paying for quality assurance - with a cheap tool you might get lucky and get a well made tool with good precision, but you might as well get a sloppy fit and out-of-true construction. With high quality tools you should get the same high precision for every tool made by the manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last point to consider is durability - high quality tools should stay precise even with use (and abuse). Planes in particular are used hard, especially when working hard, figured or knotty lumber. The plane needs to hold the blade setup during extended use, and the blade should remain sharp for long as possible. Abuse should also be considered - you don't want the plane to turn out of square (or even break) if you accidentally drop it; the metal shouldn't rust in a week, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastEditorUserId="534" LastEditDate="2015-09-29T13:02:30.423" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T13:02:30.423" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2472" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-29T11:56:19.563" Score="4" ViewCount="233" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have stained and oiled my project (well... oiling is ongoing right now for me buts lets pretend!). Is that it? Am I done? Assuming it is fully cured my project is complete? This is not a question of appearance or aesthetics as that is subjective. More of can the oil survive as the outer finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the projects I work on just use white wood, like pine, and the odd one I get lucky with an oak pallet. I don't know if the wood in use matters. Can oiling be the final step in finishing a project or do I need to throw a coat of varnish, or some other finish, on it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pictures in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/628/128&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; show some works with just oil and other with oil and varnish or lacquer. That suggest is could work if I just leave the oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I leave the oil and pass of the project to another person for their use can they get away with not oiling it themselves? This is not a butcher block or bread board but a piece of furniture. Any other implications to consider beyond that? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T14:02:49.957" Title="Are oils sufficient for the last step of finishing?" Tags="|finishing|furniture|oiling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2470" CreationDate="2015-09-29T12:49:56.753" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note that I'm referring to metal-bodied planes throughout here, wooden-bodied planes are different enough that some of the generalisations don't apply to them at all. There are many lower-cost wooden planes that can match or exceed the performance of planes that cost ten times as much, and some that can match planes that cost upwards of fifty times more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is the difference between a high-quality (e.g. $150+) and a cheapo (e.g. $20) bench plane?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm glad you included this in the body of the Question as just the title question is more likely to generate opinion-based replies rather than something more objective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The two obvious things that come to mind are &lt;strong&gt;blade quality&lt;/strong&gt; (specifically, how well it holds an edge) and the amount of &lt;strong&gt;out-of-the box setup required&lt;/strong&gt; (e.g. lapping the base, cleaning off grease, sharpening the blade). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes those are both definitely factors. Of these two the amount of setup required to get the most from the plane — or to use the older term, &lt;em&gt;fettling&lt;/em&gt; — is far and away the more significant factor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Steel quality&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is actually a little overplayed, starting with the manufacturer's own claims (which we should automatically be a little wary of just on general principles). It's actually not quite as clear-cut as they make out that one of the modern alloy steels (e.g. A2) makes a cutting iron superior to the traditional high-carbon tool steel; while edge retention can be better there are certain trade-offs, including in peak sharpness, and for some users they're essentially overkill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the steel itself, the greater thickness of most modern cutting irons is often cited as a key advantage, preventing chatter. But hundreds of thousands of users of traditional thinner-bladed planes — both historically and today — show that chatter is not an inherent problem with planes that have thinner cutting irons, as long as other aspects of the plane's setup are all working together properly. So don't believe the &quot;Thicker irons are better.&quot; hype!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fettling&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;High end:&lt;/strong&gt; with a quality expensive plane you should expect to have to do virtually no fettling for the plane to work, or none at all. In fact some makers specifically highlight that their planes are ready to use straight from the box (note that this doesn't stop some users from doing one or two minor tweaks to suit their preferences).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cheaper end:&lt;/strong&gt; quality at the lower end of the market is about what you would expect, with wider tolerances and an acceptance of far more defects (both in number and magnitude). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general it is the quality of the iron castings that are most prone to variations, and it is on these that most fettling is done so this is a key factor. Almost all of the other metal components, in steel and brass, are machined to their final shape so far less subject to variation. They tend to be fairly uniform in being rougher, but still serviceable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The body components (the main body and the frog in most cases) on virtually all planes of this type are cast iron cast in sand moulds, with machining work in only a few key places and on the cheaper planes all of the as-cast surfaces are prone to significant variation: surface blobs, overall rougher texture and indifferent painting should all be expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: because there is so much variation in cheaper planes it means that some are much better while some are poor or very poor (these ones tend to get the most press from dissatisfied buyers, colouring the view on planes of this level as being not fit for purpose). So there is an element of luck in how good or bad the one you get actually is. This doesn't mean the less-good ones are all not worth getting, but unquestionably &lt;em&gt;the worst ones are not worth the effort to try to get working well&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mechanism&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Planes which are clones of the Stanley/Bailey design tend to inherently have some 'slop' or 'backlash' in their adjustment mechanism, simply a by-product of the 19th-century mechanics. This is definitely more pronounced in lower-end planes than in high-end ones however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be emphasised that this doesn't in any way make cheaper planes unusable, or in fact significantly harder to use. It just takes a little longer to make adjustments — a few more &lt;em&gt;seconds&lt;/em&gt; in some cases — and those adjustments can be as precise and can be held just as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;But what if we replaced the blade in the cheap plane with the same high quality blade and a skilled worker tuned both planes? Is it just ergonomics &amp;amp; looks after that, or are there other qualities which set apart high quality (or even mid quality?) planes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it would mostly come down to these, yes. In some cases it is aesthetics that are the key difference, in others there are major ergonomic problems*, with the shape of the tote (rear handle) in particular coming in for criticism, but the front knob as well. In addition to their shapes, the material these are made from: not a quality hardwood with a nice finish but an inexpensive plastic casting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My personal observation on the plastic handles is that despite their obviously cheap appearance they can be comfortable to use, so if you can get past their looks they may actually be surprisingly user-friendly. And it is worth noting that a few of the cheaper planes do still feature wooden handles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*I think I should highlight here that there's a &lt;em&gt;significant&lt;/em&gt; amount of subjectivity when it comes to handles amongst tool users. Some people are pathologically opposed to plastic so regardless of their shape a plane with plastic handles would not meet with their approval, others are very particular about the shape of a tote... often it is this: if not almost exactly like the Stanleys they trained on they're bad, by definition! This is one of those areas where your own preferences have to trump everything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2017-02-03T09:25:15.573" LastActivityDate="2017-02-03T09:25:15.573" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2472" CreationDate="2015-09-29T13:05:00.117" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can oiling be the final step in finishing a project or do I need to throw a coat of varnish, or some other finish, on it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a subjective question. Obviously oiling alone is fine for some woodworkers, but it's not for others for reasons that go beyond practical considerations of expected use for the piece in question — aesthetics being such an important factor for some people. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can be? Yes, most definitely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it enough to finish a project? Depends on the user and the project. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a purely practical level, if you need decent waterproofing then oil alone doesn't fulfil the requirements (even a fully-developed oil finish adds surprisingly little water-resistance to wood).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I leave the oil and pass of the project to another person for their use can they get away with not oiling it themselves? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. Broadly speaking, assuming they take care of it in certain ways, e.g. by using paste wax or another type of furniture polish every now and then (even once a year is better than nothing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because oiled finishes are &lt;em&gt;in&lt;/em&gt; the wood and not &lt;em&gt;on&lt;/em&gt; the wood the wood in question is quite important. A very hard wood like oak when oiled holds up much better over time than pine with just oil on it, to get something of the same durability on a softwood you'd generally need to use a film-building finish, e.g. varnish or lacquer, as your topcoat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T13:05:00.117" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2144" CreationDate="2015-09-29T21:11:57.197" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you'd like to avoid using hardware, look to Japanese compression joinery as an alternative solution&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the &quot;no hardware&quot; philosophy can be used to build Japanese temples that have been standing for over 1,000 years, it can certainly be used to build your bedframe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;&lt;em&gt;New construction is usually with nails, bolts, screws, but we still actually use joinery - Which would be wood and wood expanding, contracting with each other. So this is actually something that lasts forever.&lt;/em&gt;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;&lt;em&gt;No bolts, no nails. Last longer. Also stronger for eq, hurricane.&#xA;  Even Japan, tower, temple tower, 1000 years, still standing.&lt;/em&gt;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;source:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/rMtSc2MJLcw?t=812&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/rMtSc2MJLcw?t=812&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means your frame could be disassembled as required, without worrying about the damage caused to your wood by screws and nails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lap joint and through mortise&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A very popular Japanese-style joint, incredibly strong, and stupid easy to cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pr1OB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pr1OB.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Through mortise with lapped tenons&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, another really strong joint, but a little harder to cut. This would certainly be useful for the middle horizontal beams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j8yPS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j8yPS.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3-way lap joint&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also pretty easy to cut. This joint could be used at for the 3-way intersections that occur in your horizontal beams&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vD8v7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vD8v7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pavillion Joint&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not necessarily a Japanese joint, but could still be very useful to you in your bottom corners where you can rely on gravity to hold everything in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ei3Et.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ei3Et.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1188" LastEditorDisplayName="user1188" LastEditDate="2015-09-29T21:43:00.560" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T21:43:00.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2476" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2479" CreationDate="2015-09-30T00:53:37.130" Score="6" ViewCount="5119" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm finishing my black walnut table top. I have already applied 2 coats of Old Masters Tung Oil Varnish. After this second coat, I began sanding about half the table top with 0000 steel wool before my water based poly arrived and I read the instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I didn't know not to use steel wool before applying water based polyurethane. It makes total sense now that I think about it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I still haven't applied the poly yet. I have attempted to remove these small fibers by wiping the top with an old t-shirt, and the top feels very smooth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be worried? Is there anything I can do to get these steel fibers out completely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1192" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-09-30T03:34:29.803" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T11:49:18.300" Title="Accidentally used steel wool before water based poly" Tags="|finishing|sanding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2477" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2478" CreationDate="2015-09-30T06:37:59.620" Score="6" ViewCount="1239" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a brand new woodworker and I would like to know how to setup joint proportions correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've watched many videos on various joint techniques, but most won't teach you about the proper measurements required. The only consistent advice I find is keep dovetail length about equal to board thickness. And keep dovetail ratios between 1:6 and 1:8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disclaimer 1:&lt;/strong&gt; This is my first time setting up a joint of any kind, so please take it easy on me :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disclaimer 2:&lt;/strong&gt; This is not about the half lap dovetail in specific. I am curious to know about the joint setup/layout process involved in approaching any joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this hardwood joint, I've chosen 1:8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the process I used:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the board is 48x48 mm, I said &amp;quot;let's call that 1 unit&amp;quot;. From there, I mostly made decisions based on fractions of the unit. 1/4 unit = 12 mm, and 1/2 unit = 24 mm, etc. I wiggled things around until they &lt;em&gt;looked&lt;/em&gt; like most stuff I've seen elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EHxKg.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EHxKg.png&quot; alt=&quot;half lap dovetail joint&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My Question(s):&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The joint above &lt;em&gt;looks&lt;/em&gt; like a half lap dovetail joint, but how well would it function like one ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any basic science/math to picking dimensions for the joints ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What techniques do you use to layout a joint from scratch ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1188" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T09:14:08.993" Title="How to setup joint proportions?" Tags="|joinery|design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2477" CreationDate="2015-09-30T09:14:08.993" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The only consistent advice I find is keep dovetail length about equal to board thickness. And keep dovetail ratios between 1:6 and 1:8. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth mentioning that some of this is a tradition thing and to some extent that is based on aesthetics; you do see exceptions for specific decorative effect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dovetails are inherently strong, both structurally and because of the large glue surface area, so you can get away with a fair amount of variation and still end up with a very strong joint. Broadly speaking, the main things to keep in mind are not to make the pins or the base of the tails too thin, and not to make the slope too excessive (because this would tend to leave &lt;em&gt;short grain&lt;/em&gt; at their corners which is weak). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And going on from this, to some degree many joint dimensions are a matter of choice — excluding very fat or very skinny options almost anything in between will work acceptably well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I wiggled things around until they &lt;em&gt;looked&lt;/em&gt; like most stuff I've seen elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's often perfectly acceptable. In joint-making things that look right will many times work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The joint above looks like a half lap dovetail joint, but how well would it function like one ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you've drawn up there I think could be called a shouldered dovetailed half-lap (UK: shouldered dovetailed halving joint) and it looks like it will function perfectly well in the way I presume you intend it to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's slightly more complex to lay out and cut than a conventional dovetailed half-lap (with I think little or no added benefit for most applications) but if you're happy with how it looks I don't foresee a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there any basic science/math to picking dimensions for the joints ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some, but it mostly pertains to structural wood joints where strength is more critical, and the maths is very heavy going as it takes into account the structural strength of the wood, e.g. moduli of elasticity and rigidity. If you'd like to read up on this publications from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/&quot;&gt;Forest Products Laboratory&lt;/a&gt; (a division of the US Department of Agriculture) are a good place to start. If you'd like to look into it in even greater detail there are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.astm.org/&quot;&gt;ASTM&lt;/a&gt; standards for structural joint strength and testing of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What techniques do you use to layout a joint from scratch ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rough rules of thumb are the usual starting point for laying out joints, and some people have their own preferences for how to lay out joints (some based purely on expedience and not with an eye to maximising strength). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a furniture-making context, because wood is generally more than strong enough for the application much variation in joint dimensions is not critical and doesn't have any noticeable impact on strength. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For mortise-and-tenon joinery for example, older guides may say that tenons are generally 1/3 the thickness of the wood being used. With thinner stock tenons half the thickness are not uncommon however, and with thicker boards tenons under one third can be used; or alternatively, and to be preferred, a pair of thinner tenons are formed (twin tenons). Mortises are generally just a little deeper than the length of the tenon they're intended to mate with, as it's difficult to form the bottom of a mortise perfectly flat it gives you a little leeway so the tenon can seat fully, as well as providing a small pocket for excess glue to collect in (rather than all of it trying to squeeze out when the tenon is pushed home).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because joinery is such a wide and deep subject it would be best to ask joint-specific questions as and when they crop up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T09:14:08.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2476" CreationDate="2015-09-30T09:31:52.633" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I began sanding about half the table top with 0000 steel wool &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to address this point first, using steel wool is not a sanding operation and it shouldn't really be thought of as being in the same category. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The results seem quite similar but its cutting action is not the same — the action of steel wool is more akin to microscopic planing than the outright scratching from the abrasive particles bonded to the surface of sandpaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should I be worried? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know that you should be overly worried but yes there is the obvious concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For anyone unfamiliar with the subject, waterbased finishes can react with particles of steel wool trapped in the wood and they can rust, leading to tiny rust spots and subsequent dark staining if the iron reacts with tannins in the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do to get these steel fibers out completely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A tack cloth might be your best removal option, but thoroughly brushing over the surface with a stiff-bristled brush, followed by wiping down with a microfibre cloth may be sufficient. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibly the best thing to do here would be to apply one additional coat of the Old Masters product, which with luck will successfully seal off any remaining specks of steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a personal opinion only, but since you've already used an oil-based varnish blend on the piece I don't really see why you'd choose to use a waterbased varnish on top. Using an oil-based poly as your topcoat would seem to be the ideal solution here, and it is inherently a better product (easier to apply to a high standard, stronger and more water-resistant).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T09:31:52.633" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2476" CreationDate="2015-09-30T11:49:18.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try putting a strong magnet inside the cloths as described by @Graphus.  It may help a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1146" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T11:49:18.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2481" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-30T23:48:18.770" Score="10" ViewCount="3327" Body="&lt;p&gt;So right now I have a paintbrush sitting in a small jar to clean my brush of poly. Once I take the brush out what can I do with the left over spirits? Would seem a waste to get rid of it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To what extent, if any, can I reuse mineral spirits? It is possible, given their similar nature, that the answer would apply to paint thinner as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T10:44:32.467" Title="Reusing mineral spirits?" Tags="|oiling|clean-up|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2481" CreationDate="2015-10-01T00:55:45.547" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can reuse solvents a few times. However, at some point the solvent will be contaminated by too much of the thing you're cleaning. At this point, your solvent is no good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't really give you any pointers as to when this is, but you'll probably notice when the solvent doesn't work as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2198/cleaning-a-sprayer-from-oil-based-material&quot;&gt;related Question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T00:55:45.547" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2483" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2499" CreationDate="2015-10-01T01:48:41.110" Score="7" ViewCount="8039" Body="&lt;p&gt;I applied my first coat of General Finishes water based poly last night.  But now after sanding with a 3M finishing pad, I am seeing blueish fogginess on the table top.  It doesn't seem to be dust, since I can't wipe it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this go away in the next coat? If not, how do I fix this? Thanks in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To prep this top, I first sanded to 220 grit. Also, I applied two coats of Old Masters. Tung Oil Varnish&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blueish gray bits are visible on the left side of the image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hC9bj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hC9bj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Table&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1192" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-10-01T02:35:07.607" LastActivityDate="2019-11-09T16:52:08.400" Title="Blue/Greyish look after sanding polyurethane coat" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2484" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-01T02:14:42.757" Score="20" ViewCount="19752" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't afford a jointer right now, and I am wondering, what are the tricks to getting a good joint(on the edges, not on the surface)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I have tried in the past is simply nailing a straight board to the board I want to cut, and running the straight board along the fence of my table saw. I made sure to hold the straight edge firmly against the fence at the point just before the blade, and having a catcher helped as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xm05Y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xm05Y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1192" LastEditorUserId="3562" LastEditDate="2019-03-12T19:24:45.613" LastActivityDate="2022-01-02T14:50:42.790" Title="Methods of jointing without a jointer" Tags="|jointer|milling|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2481" CreationDate="2015-10-01T03:33:20.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put used paint thinner back in an old container and let the junk settle out.  The top pours clear, and seems to still work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="484" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T03:33:20.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2484" CreationDate="2015-10-01T07:23:33.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you planks wiggle on your table saw, use your handheld instead. It is the same idea as you have already presented, but upside down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T07:23:33.017" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2484" CreationDate="2015-10-01T10:11:30.130" Score="17" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What I have tried in the past is simply nailing a straight board to the board I want to cut&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In essence that's a very good method to do it, and will even work even if the board you're working has very uneven edges, e.g. a live edge (UK: waney edge).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend you not use nails ideally, you can hold the board securely without having to mark it. Below are a few options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Table saw&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u8q1H.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u8q1H.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Jointing/ripping sleds&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, you can use the mitre slot instead of the existing fence as your straight reference, this may help to reduce the risk of kickback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hcSMr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hcSMr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Jointing/ripping sled, mitre-slot type&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Router&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It's a shame you don't have a router as there are many good router-based options for edge jointing and a sharp router bit leaves a particularly good glue surface for a power tool. Here's one simple and effective design:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fwfdr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fwfdr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Router jointer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shopnotes.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;ShopNotes&lt;/a&gt; #8]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Handtools&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is of course doable just with hand tools, as that is how boards made flat, square and true in the past. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Traditionally a jointer would be used for this as its name would suggest (although they were also called try planes or trying planes). You &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; do this with a no. 4 or smoothing plane, but at only about 9&quot; / 23cm long it's a little too short to do the job as effectively as one would like — a shorter plane can more easily ride up and down over irregularities rather than skating over the top of them as preferred. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When jointing edges by hand, in addition to the physical planing work it's important to first mark out your boards well, on both faces and both ends, and then work down to your line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with marked/gauged lines to work to planing long board edges flat and square to the face is fairly challenging. So over the years various jigs and fence systems have been devised, especially to help less-experienced plane users do the job. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One particularly good solution is shown below, starting with just a common block plane. By effectively extending its bed length with the infeed and outfeed 'tables' it gives a true jointing effect, even though the plane at the heart of it is a mere 6&quot; / 15cm long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SSuee.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SSuee.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hand-plane jointer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shopnotes.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;ShopNotes&lt;/a&gt; #19]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T10:11:30.130" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2481" CreationDate="2015-10-01T10:44:32.467" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To what extent, if any, can I reuse mineral spirits? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I touch on in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2198/cleaning-a-sprayer-from-oil-based-material#2200&quot;&gt;a previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;, you can re-use rinsing solvents a few times. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The larger the volume you work with the more you can re-use it. And it is well worth rinsing in a much larger jar than you would perhaps naturally go with; small jars should definitely be avoided even if you plan to wash the brush in soap and water afterwards. Products containing resins — including varnish, &quot;Danish oil&quot;, &quot;Tung Oil Finish&quot;, &quot;teak oil&quot; and numerous others — are resistant to getting clean from a soap-and-water wash after rinsing in spirits. So think mason jar rather than babyfood jar :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to pigments settling out, the 'solids' in varnish will also settle out of solution to some extent given enough time (days to over a week). This can be seen as a yellowish residue at the bottom of the jar. Oils will tend to stay in solution, hence the need to only re-use spirits a certain number of times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contaminated spirits tend to be easy to spot as they're not water-clear any longer but instead have a slight straw or amber colour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you would prefer something more concrete than the colour you can test empirically for whether it's time to discard your solvent by putting a drop on a clean sheet of glass and leaving it to evaporate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fresh from the container any solvent will leave nothing at all behind on the glass. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slightly dirty you'll get a faint greasy or sticky film. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very dirty and you'll see a noticeable ring on the glass and the residue can be quite tacky. At that point you really have what amounts to thin varnish and it should be dumped.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also used a glossy glazed ceramic tile for this test. Do not use polished marble or granite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It is possible, given their similar nature, that the answer would apply to paint thinner as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, exactly the same principle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some sources claim this applies less to lacquer thinners and other 'hot' solvent as they can tend to hold solved resins/binders in solution rather than let them settle out, but I don't know that this is actually true. Those using lacquers tend to be pros and extremely careful about cross-contamination and general cleanliness in their equipment, so they may be being overly conservative. And they're not paying directly for their own solvents as leisure woodworkers do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW from my own observations I've seen solids settle out of lacquer thinners in what &lt;em&gt;appears to be&lt;/em&gt; exactly the same way as it does with spirits or turpentine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T10:44:32.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2489" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2490" CreationDate="2015-10-01T13:30:23.970" Score="18" ViewCount="79787" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now that coffee cans, and even larger glass bottles, are becoming hard to find, my workshop's pile of containers is mostly plastic. This has me wondering/worrying about which plastics might be dissolved by (or contaminate) which common woodworking solvents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I presume that all of them are safe for alcohol and, of course, water. But I'm less sure about paint thinner, lacquer thinner, mineral spirits, the various oil-based paints and varnishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I've seen Styrofoam melt when exposed to nothing more than lemon juice. I don't know whether that means I should avoid polystyrene generally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="140" LastEditDate="2015-10-03T12:16:35.650" LastActivityDate="2017-06-16T09:17:00.500" Title="Which solvents can be stored in which plastics? -- is there an organic chemist in the house?" Tags="|toxicity|paint|varnish|storage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2489" CreationDate="2015-10-01T14:12:11.473" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;A quick google search found me &lt;a href=&quot;https://capolight.wordpress.com/2010/08/10/solvent-compatibility-and-plastics/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt;, which has a nifty compatibility chart that I've attached below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/29N8o.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/29N8o.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;compatibility&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.coleparmer.com/Chemical-Resistance&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cole-Parmer&lt;/a&gt; has a very comprehensive compatibility chart for many solvents (organic or otherwise).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some common solvents, I've summarized some info from Cole-Parmer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turpentine is no good for ABS plastic, brass, EPDM, LDPE, rubber, neoprene, and a whole slew of others.  I'd look at the Cole-Parmer list for comprehensive info.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mineral spirits (aka paint thinner) are no good for ABS plastic, HDPE, and EPDM.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Linseed oil is no good for EPDM, rubber, and neoprene&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ethyl alcohol (the kind you can drink) will dissolve polyurethane but is pretty much OK for everything else&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Methyl (wood) alcohol (the kind that makes you blind) is no good for ABS plastic and polyurethane&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lacquer thinner is no good for EPDM, rubber, neoprene, polypropylene, polyurethane, PVC, and silicone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For further information, I'd check the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.coleparmer.com/Chemical-Resistance&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cole-Parmer&lt;/a&gt; website.  I've tried to summarize as best I could, but this isn't the proper format for a comprehensive scope.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T14:12:11.473" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2491" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-01T20:34:43.000" Score="5" ViewCount="7739" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there away to take apart a wood cabinet that has been glued together with Gorilla Glue without destroying the wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1198" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-10-01T21:09:04.923" LastActivityDate="2023-07-28T13:47:29.277" Title="Taking apart a wood cabinet that has been glued together with Gorilla Glue" Tags="|assembly|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2491" CreationDate="2015-10-01T20:54:13.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good Luck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Traditionally, woodworkers used hide glue, which could be softened with heat and moisture. Some modern glues, though less cooperative, can be persuaded to do likewise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My admittedly minimal understanding is that Gorilla may not be one of these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T20:54:13.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2491" CreationDate="2015-10-01T21:14:31.443" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gorilla Glue is a polyurethane-based adhesive.  As such, you might be able to use a solvent that dissolves polyurethane to try to break down the adhesive and remove the glue.  Likely you will have to let it sit and constantly reapply the solvent to get the polyurethane to break down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We just had a &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2489/solvents-and-plastics-is-there-an-organic-chemist-in-the-house&quot;&gt;Question&lt;/a&gt; about storing solvents that you will find helpful in determining what might dissolve your Gorilla Glue.  Some solvents that may work are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ethyl alcohol (the kind you can drink)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;methyl alcohol (only drink it if you want to go blind)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lacquer thinner&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/41267/is-there-anything-i-can-use-to-remove-gorilla-glue-from-hardwood&quot;&gt;Related Question on DIY.SE&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://askville.amazon.com/Gorilla-Glue-dry/AnswerViewer.do?requestId=3771752&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Related question on Amazon Askville&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T21:14:31.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2494" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2496" CreationDate="2015-10-01T21:51:12.007" Score="8" ViewCount="2389" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a project that has a piece of curved (concave) crotch walnut.  The curve is in three dimensions and is roughly 8&quot;x6&quot; in x-y and curves inwards roughly .5&quot; in the z axis.  I used a spokeshave to get down to the final shape, but due to the grain direction of the crotch walnut it was very difficult for me to get a perfect surface finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That leads me to sanding.  What's a good way to sand a surface like this?  Obviously I can just back the sandpaper with my fingers, but I was taught that this is poor technique.  I need grits down to 120 or so (a few light tool marks left that I can't get rid of with the spokeshave).  I was thinking that an interface pad to my orbital sander might work, but I'm concerned that the paper will fold and effectively sand some places, but not others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Google shows tons of results for flexible sanding sponges, but I can't make heads from tails from all the different options.  Several appear to be made of different materials than the sand paper I'm used to and are rated &quot;coarse&quot; or &quot;fine&quot;, but don't state grit.  I'm sure there is some subjectivity here, but I'm curious what the pros/cons of the different options are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="566" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-10-02T13:34:28.070" LastActivityDate="2019-04-17T19:36:51.917" Title="Good way to sand wide curved faces" Tags="|sanding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2494" CreationDate="2015-10-02T12:16:52.050" Score="10" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm working on a project that has a piece of curved (concave) crotch walnut...due to the grain direction of the crotch walnut it was very difficult for me to get a perfect surface finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of sanding, I would suggest using a curved scraper. When properly sharpened, they work very well on weird grain directions and leave an almost polished surface behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=32639&amp;amp;cat=1,310,41069&amp;amp;ap=1&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lee Valley&lt;/a&gt; (among other places) sells scrapers like this that would fit your bill.  You can also make them out of old hand saw blades and file them to the profile you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9wIAL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9wIAL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;scraper&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Obviously I can just back the sandpaper with my fingers, but I was taught that this is poor technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not necessarily.  If you're trying to get a true, flat surface then yes, backing sandpaper with your fingers is not a good idea.  However, for your case it will work fine since you're trying to get into a spot that &quot;normal&quot; sanding techniques can't get into.  If you want to avoid the subtle dishes that can occure from using your fingers (or keep your fingers from getting too hot), you can put a piece of leather between your fingers and the sandpaper to spread the force out more evenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I was thinking that an interface pad to my orbital sander might work, but I'm concerned that the paper will fold and effectively sand some places, but not others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might consider &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&amp;amp;Category_Code=snding-bufbal&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;buying&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Quick-and-Dirty-Sanding-Ball/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;making&lt;/a&gt; a sanding ball.  These can be quite effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qu1NR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qu1NR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-10-02T14:10:21.413" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T14:10:21.413" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2491" CreationDate="2015-10-02T12:30:03.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;caustic (ie, vs solvent-based) finish stripper may work, if you can get it to penetrate into the joints. Gorilla glue crosslinks as it cures, meaning that what was once many molecules is now one giant one... it can't be dissolved, it has to be broken. Caustic stuff like drano, oven cleaner, or caustic stripper should work, but getting it to penetrate will be tough/impossible without damaging the wood... good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T12:30:03.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2494" CreationDate="2015-10-02T14:24:06.100" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your curves are not perfect circles, which they don't seem to be from your use of the word wide, then I would suggest a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=45525&amp;amp;cat=1,42500&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sanding star&lt;/a&gt;. These would conform to the existing shape better if that is something important. These might be too big for your surface but perhaps a dremel attachment exists. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=45525&amp;amp;cat=1,42500&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.leevalley.com/en/images/item/Woodworking/SandingShaping/61k5142s3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sanding Star&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the off chance your curves are more uniform you could get away with a flap wheel that was the same diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GtmvA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GtmvA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Flap Wheels&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/data/attachments/20/20826-a7987349647eeae0132d39e6c25451ea.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mig-welding.co.uk&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2019-04-17T19:36:51.917" LastActivityDate="2019-04-17T19:36:51.917" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2483" CreationDate="2015-10-02T14:37:40.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the picture, it appears to be the open grain of the wood.  This is typical in an initial coat because if you have done it right, it will be relatively thin.  A good way to tell, is if you can lightly feel a difference in the finish where the spots are in comparison to the rest of the top.  If it looks like this is the case, you should notice it disappear in the next coat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If not, try to determine whether it's in the finish    or on the surface.  Poly can be a fragile process because it takes so    long to cure and needs a virtually dust-free environment.  If it    appears to be on the surface, you should be able to sand it out of    the finish.  If your scotch pad isn't enough, a piece of 220 or    higher should be fine so long as you're careful not to go too deep.     Also, if using sandpaper, be mindful of uneven scratching in the    finish.  It will add an extra coat or two to your process.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If it appears to be in/under the finish, I'm afraid the only way to    save it that I'm familiar with is the old fashioned way;    sand/strip    the finish off and start over. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this was of some help.  Another tip in finish work; one of the&#xA;   most common mistakes when scuffing between coats is to overdo it. &#xA;   Scuffing is only meant to smooth the surface for the next coat so it&#xA;   usually doesn't take much.  Best of luck to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1201" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T14:37:40.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2491" CreationDate="2015-10-02T16:34:05.053" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dissolving gorilla glue is not easy. Paint stripper methylene chloride is the only chemical that will do it. You need to take a clean sharp paint scraper and wedge it slightly in the joint. Place a little MC in the space and work at it slowly. GLOVES. MC resistant gloves. Playtex melts. Tap squirt massage pat squirt. Go slowly. then a coating of MC and wash with laundry soap  and hot water with SS brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="785" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T16:34:05.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2494" CreationDate="2015-10-02T17:56:27.947" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Obviously I can just back the sandpaper with my fingers, but I was taught that this is poor technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is poor technique, until it's not. This is an ideal situation for when sanding with your palm/fingers is a good solution — one of the great things about the hand is that while not exactly infinitely adjustable it is multi-conformable, capable of sanding concavities as well as convexities. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would however urge you to try scraping as the first port of call; and not just here, as a general principle. A well-sharpened scraper* is nearly unbelievably faster than abrasive paper, doing the job that rounds of sanding would do — 80, 100, 150 — but in a single operation. And in a fraction of the time. Perhaps best of all, little or no dust!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're almost certainly going to want to do some sanding afterwards (despite their reputation for producing a finish-ready surface it's very common, if not typical, to lightly sand after using a scraper) but it should require a minimal amount using only the final grit you'd use prior to applying the chosen finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Note that scraping can be done with two types of edge and work effectively. The first is the conventional burr, the second is the knife edge. The burr is usually turned with a burnisher but see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1134/what-are-the-differences-between-sanding-and-scraping/1159#1159&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt; for a quick thing about heretical sharpening, as well as other info on scraper use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T17:56:27.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2502" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-03T12:26:03.210" Score="6" ViewCount="1045" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am interested in making a bunch of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Penrose_tiling#Rhombus_tiling_.28P3.29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Penrose tiles&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GWII6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GWII6.png&quot; alt=&quot;penrose&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that the triangles and half circle on the figures shouldn't be there, they are for alignment purposes only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the tiles is a rhombus with corners of 36, 144, 36 and 144 degrees.  I am looking for the community's ideas on how to make a piece of wood with this cross section.  Lets say the sides are 1.5&quot;.  I have a table saw, jointer, planar, router and access to most of the other tools.  Accuracy is important.  Any ideas and suggestion are appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit #1.  I really appreciate all the responses.  This seams like a great stack exchange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process I was envisioning was the following.  Get a 6' piece of stock with the correct cross section, then use a band saw to cut off the individual tiles to correct thickness.  Aside from the difficulty in getting the correct cross section, are there other issues / problems with this approach?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit #2&#xA;I found this approach on YouTube to cute acute angles.  Does &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/m2gl9OEW8tg?t=245/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;this&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; seems safe and accurate?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1203" LastEditorUserId="1203" LastEditDate="2015-10-06T12:21:23.710" LastActivityDate="2018-02-19T07:39:53.620" Title="What is an accurate and safe way to piece together wood with a rhombus cross section?" Tags="|technique|power-tools|tool-selection|cutting|tolerance|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2502" CreationDate="2015-10-03T19:45:43.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the small size you're intending the pieces to be I think the answer to this is simple and it doesn't revolve around any conventional tools or shaping operations, not with wood's inherent friability and the potential losses from errant chip-out at edges. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Laser cutting&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I'm sure that's &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; way to do these, not only will the accuracy be far higher than they could possibly be made by hand (not just by you, by any human) it means that no marking out whatsoever will be needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Laser cutting will require that a digital outline file be prepared, but once this is done the cutting is trivial (fully automatic) and at any point in the future further tiles can be made, e.g. to replace damaged or broken ones, by running the same file again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These outline files can be of a few different file formats, generated by different programs. Ffor example a .AI file from Adobe illustrator, a .CDR file from CorelDRAW or a .DXF file from AutoCad. In addition, laser-cutting services will give further details to help you lay out the outlines on the sheet properly, e.g. providing a sufficient border around all sides of the material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Material choice&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you hadn't given particular though to materials yet, particularly if the tiles are intended to be quite thin I think you should probably go with a high-end plywood rather than solid wood. There will be some sticker shock with quality plywood, but it will be worth it for the quality hardwood face veneer and the consistent, void-free internal plies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do want to go with solid wood a close-grained hardwood should be chosen, not something open-grained (e.g. oak or ash) and certainly not most of the softwoods, which have very variable hardness from the light 'earlywood' to the darker 'latewood' bands. An ideal choice would be boxwood, which has grain so fine it can be nearly impossible to see with the naked eye. It's also very hard and dense, hence why it was the wood of choice for small, accurate rules (rulers). But boxwood could prove very hard for you to get in the amounts you need and possibly the price will be too high anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-10-03T19:45:43.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2502" CreationDate="2015-10-03T20:05:57.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Or use a scroll saw (essentially, a powered coping saw/fretsaw) to cut these out following a template glued/transferred to the wood, then touch up the edges as needed to make them fit well. Fairly manual-task intensive, but it's a cheaper tool than the laser cutter. How many do you need? (Note that cutting several sheets stacked/pinned together is quite possible and would reduce the effort involved.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is assuming you really do want the alignment tabs shown in the picture. If you can dispense with those, a jig and either bandsaw or tablesaw is probably the best approach; see that answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2015-10-04T00:44:02.220" LastActivityDate="2015-10-04T00:44:02.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2502" CreationDate="2015-10-04T00:22:27.793" Score="3" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bandsaw / (table saw... maybe. Bandsaw I see being preferred.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mitre sled&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clamp(s)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figured the band saw would be a good choice since many support a miter sled or if nothing else you could make one. With all the pieces you only really need to measure two cuts. The other two would be parallel to the previous so a simple fence would suffice there. For the first 2 cuts the miter sled could be adjusted to very precise angles assuming the sled itself is true to begin with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how many pieces you are making and how often you plan to do this making 2 mitre sleds or one with complementing angles would suit &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; well for making consistent precise cuts. Both the table saw and bandsaw typically come with a basic one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Iflq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Iflq.png&quot; alt=&quot;45 degree mitre sled&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image still from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eeFsqDCZgSE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Above is a picture of a custom 45 degree sled. Of course that is not exactly what you want but we need to show that it is a simple design. Make one with &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; angles and then you could clamp on stops (blocks of wood clamped on the side of the fences for determining the length of cut) so making repeated buts will be the same without the need for repeated measurement. The author of the video above appears to be using particle board for his sled. I would recommend something better like baltic birch which seems to be the choice of sled makers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is you make longer strips of wood that are the width of a perpendicular line that intersects 2 opposite sides of you blocks you can then make each from two cuts. It is easier to show a picture based on the one attached. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IFmuY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IFmuY.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Table saw would also function in the exact same way described above however a bandsaw would be safer if you are planning are cutting more than one piece at a time which would be more efficient. Bandsaw is always cutting in a downward motion. Table saw blades are moving in a circular motion so if one of the board caught the blade it could pull some out and cause kickback or worse. Not to say their is zero risk with the bandsaw. You could get blade jams and &lt;em&gt;maybe&lt;/em&gt; snaps but those would be less likely to harm you. If you are planning on cutting one peice at a time this is not an issue. I would still use the bandsaw since it has a smaller kerf. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clamps would also help in either case if they were attached to a mobile part of the sled and applying downward pressure. Building a custom sled would allow more room for these types of clamps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hzyLY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hzyLY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Toggle clamps&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount of wood you could do at one time is factored by the thickness of your wood, the throat size of the bandsaw and the abilty to keep it from moving while you are moving it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of this if fine and dandy in theory... It might be to difficult to do this safely if your pieces are as small as you described but as long as you are careful this could still be done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestions above would help get the angles you need. Like you suggested another solution to get the same results every time would be to cut a thicker block using the suggestions above and the flip it on its side to run trough the band-saw along a fence. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-10-05T00:10:51.907" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T00:10:51.907" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2506" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2509" CreationDate="2015-10-04T02:18:38.170" Score="15" ViewCount="159892" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I am playing with finishes for the first time and experimenting with polyurethane. My problem involves quoting the instructions on the can and giving some background into my process. Bear with me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From other answers on WW I understand that applying only a few coats of poly can be &lt;em&gt;sufficient&lt;/em&gt; but traditionally you could use as many as 21 over the course a year. Since I don't need an exercise in futility I opted for 3 coats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did 2, what I thought were, thin coats 3 days apart and the last one was 2 days previous to now. I did not sand between coats; again because it is not &lt;em&gt;required&lt;/em&gt; between coats (Again based on other answers required).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Referencing steps from the directions on the can and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.minwax.ca/wood-products/interior-clear-protective-finishes/minwax-fastdrying-polyurethane&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Minwax website&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;4&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Apply a &lt;strong&gt;THIN coat&lt;/strong&gt; of Minwax® Fast-Drying Polyurethane using a high-quality natural or foam brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Let dry 4-6 hours. Then lightly sand entire surface with &lt;strong&gt;fine sandpaper (220 grit)&lt;/strong&gt; to ensure an even finish and proper adhesion. Remove all dust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Apply second coat. If third coat is desired, repeat step 5 before application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from the lack of sanding between coats I adhered to the instructions rather well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I left the table to cure in my shed. Issue with that was my shed seems to have become a haven for &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boxelder_bug&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;boxelder bugs&lt;/a&gt;. Which would be an issue except they pissed on the table in several places. Some of it just chips off but I needed to sand out several of them. Sanding with 220 grit with only a few passes it looks like I sanded through the two coats down to wood!?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why would they suggest I sand with that grit if it takes away the coats to begin with? Obviously they didn't intend for that to happen and I am doing something I am not supposed to do. Should I have used a finer grit? Are my poly coats to thin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2017-08-22T05:56:08.783" Title="Issue sanding between coats of polyurethane" Tags="|technique|sanding|oiling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2502" CreationDate="2015-10-04T03:28:07.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another solution, depending on how much precision your tools will permit: start with a blank block,  plane it to the height of the rhombus, cut triangle off one side, cut the other side at the same angle taking a triangle plus as much more as is necessary to correctly size the rhombus's width, then cut slices of this at 90 degrees to form your tiles. The small size is the main challenge here, and getting it precise may take some experimentation, but it permits rapid production once you're set up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-10-04T03:28:07.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2506" CreationDate="2015-10-04T05:29:57.073" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Hot-coating&quot; (applying a second coat of poly over the first without sanding) has become an accepted technique. It seems to work better if done right after the first coat has dried, perhaps because it's still polymerizing. After two coats, common wisdom seems to be to let it cure completely and sand lightly before doing another coat/hot-coat pair (if desired); I admit to being a bit cavalier about that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When they say &quot;sand lightly,&quot; they mean &lt;strong&gt;very&lt;/strong&gt; lightly, just enough to roughen the surface a bit to help the layers mechanically lock into each other and reduce the risk of one peeling awsy from the other (which is supposedly possible). A couple light swipes may be all that's needed, especially -- again -- if the poly is still curing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Useful trick while I'm here: After the varnish has really cured, a brown paper bag is just abrasive enough to knock loose dust specks caught in the surface and polish it a bit.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Traditionally&quot;... According to whose tradition, with what intent and for what use? You can certainly &quot;build&quot; varnish quite deep, if you want that look, but unless you're finishing a bar top or some other surface expected to get a lot of wear and moisture you shouldn't need it. This depends on the specific varnish -- viscosity varies and some build faster than others -- and how you apply it (padding typically puts down a thinner coat than a well-handled brush) -- but three-to-five coats should give you as much protection as most things will need, and can give you quite a nice shine. This does depend a bit on the wood; some will absorb the first coat completely and only subsequent coats actually stay on the surface... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put six padded coats of poly on the end table I just refinished and got a &quot;wow, look at that shine&quot; reaction... but the first two were tinted (which I usually avoid on principle, but in this case it was handy) and the last one or two were just cheap insurance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2015-10-04T05:48:53.387" LastActivityDate="2015-10-04T05:48:53.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2506" CreationDate="2015-10-04T08:05:34.343" Score="11" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Referencing steps from the directions on the can and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.minwax.ca/wood-products/interior-clear-protective-finishes/minwax-fastdrying-polyurethane&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Minwax website&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let dry 4-6 hours. Then lightly sand entire surface with fine sandpaper (220 grit) &lt;strong&gt;to ensure an even finish and proper adhesion&lt;/strong&gt;. Remove all dust. [My emphasis]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The highlighted portion is part of the problem we face in the woodworking world: that even manufacturer instructions can't be trusted to be accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most egregious part of this is that sanding is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; needed to ensure adhesion between fresh coats of poly. And actually it's not needed between coats of any varnish &lt;em&gt;and never has been&lt;/em&gt;. There are uncountable examples of this to prove the point, as Bob Flexner makes some reference to in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/The_7_Myths_of_Polyurethane&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The 7 Myths of Polyurethane&lt;/a&gt; on Popular Woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to that, sanding between coats specifically should not be relied upon to ensure a smooth, uniform finish (there are much better methods, none of which waste finish needlessly, more on this below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be done for one reason only: de-nibbing, where it serves a specific, and necessary function for most users.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; where de-nibbing is not needed, e.g. where varnish is applied in a clean-air environment, sanding between coats is never done as far as I'm aware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From other answers on WW I understand that applying only a few coats of poly can be sufficient but traditionally you could use as many as 21 over the course a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know where the confusion arose but the 21 coats refers to a traditional drying-oil finish, not varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be unusual to apply more than 6-8 full-strength coats of varnish and even at that only for high-end pieces, and/or where wet-sanding and polishing is being done at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanding with 220 grit with only a few passes it looks like I sanded through the two coats down to wood!?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't at all be surprised by this, sanding properly — not just scuff-sanding where you're &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; looking to scratch the surface — will very easily break through only a couple of layers of poly. Particularly cheap poly, which Minwax is an example of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why would they suggest I sand with that grit if it takes away the coats to begin with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is one of the other reasons I personally object to that part of the finishing instructions. Ignoring that it's not needed for adhesion what it does is &lt;em&gt;pointlessly&lt;/em&gt; remove varnish you just applied, only to be replaced by more varnish in the next layer(s)!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although some sanding between coats is needed for some users, it's actually a very self-serving direction on the part of the manufacturers as they're assuring you use more of the product than needed. This is just like the directions for some stains and for oil/varnish blends, where supposedly only by applying a liberal excess of the product &lt;em&gt;and then wiping almost all of it off&lt;/em&gt; can good results be achieved. This is very far from the truth, and it wouldn't be an exaggeration to say it can waste 95% of the product that goes on the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If manufacturers were truly interested in helping their customers to apply the product most effectively, as they say or imply, what they would do is give people specific tips on how to apply smooth, even coats of varnish such that no sanding would normally be required (except to de-nib).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I have used a finer grit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibly, but I think you should have first tried a non-sanding approach. Wiping down with warm soapy water would have probably been the first thing I would have tried :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-10-04T08:05:34.343" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2510" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2513" CreationDate="2015-10-04T14:02:19.590" Score="7" ViewCount="954" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1EiiH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1EiiH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I saw this example in a how-to page of &lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.sashco.com/log-home/how-to-apply-log-home-stain-samples&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sashco company&lt;/a&gt;!. I'm wondering how all the samples have a lighter and darker shade. Is it a double applying of the same product on it's right side?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And how can I apply a similar transition on a piece of wood. Is it sufficient to tape it off, is this why it has a dark line like if it had a cut. What kind of tape to use then?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1207" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2019-07-16T14:42:56.630" LastActivityDate="2019-07-16T14:42:56.630" Title="I wonder how this alternating stain effect is made" Tags="|finishing|technique|staining|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2510" CreationDate="2015-10-04T16:27:25.313" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks to me as though whomever did this just stuck the end of the piece into a can of finish, one end at a time. If you were to dunk the end into the finish, allow it to sit for a short period of time, then pull it out, it would provide the nice even line you see. Allow the excess to drain off, then do the next piece. There wouldn't be too much of a difference in the level of the finish, so each piece would have roughly the same amount of finish on the end. Then let it dry and do the other end with a different finish. The center on some of the pieces looks like it has a different finish ... the top two pieces looking like they don't have any finish at all (natural). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same process could be used on the bottom two pieces with different levels of finish. Best part is, no tape required. You'd probably find that with tape, the finish would bleed under it anyway because of capillary draw of the wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;cut&quot; on the right side of the wood looks exactly like that ... a cut. Something which was applied after or before. If done before, it could have been a reference line to dunk the wood down to in the finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2015-10-04T16:27:25.313" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2510" CreationDate="2015-10-04T19:26:25.830" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Their website says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Different Wood Prep Methods&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Not only does the type of wood affect how the stain will appear, different preparation and  application methods will affect the final result. Power washed logs, hand-sanded logs, and media blasted logs will all soak up the stain differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The image below illustrates how wood prep affects the final stain. From the top:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Media blasted logs (no finish sanding)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Media blasted logs, finish sanded with Buffy Pads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Power washed logs, finish sanded with Osborn®brushes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Power washed logs (no finish sanding)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what they're demonstrating is something any good woodworker discovers: if you're staining, sanding to an excessively fine grit can actually reduce how much stain the wood absorbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know whether these were dunked; masking can produce a pretty sharp lins, and the apparent cut toward the right end of each log would help keep the dark stain from bleeding pas that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, I believe this is showing at least two different finishes at the two ends, with unfinished to compare it to. I'm saying &quot;at least&quot; because the third down has another clearly visible line at the middle. I can't account for that unless they were also showing sanded vs. unsanded or something like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When in doubt about how an effect was achieved, the best place to start is usually the folks who produced that piece, if you can find them. Companies in particular like to know people are looking at their websites!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2015-10-05T03:32:23.337" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T03:32:23.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2510" CreationDate="2015-10-05T14:38:12.427" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm with Sashco, the company who posted that picture. Yes, the prepped sections were taped off in order to clearly mark where the different prep methods were done. After all prep was done, a very narrow groove was cut into the wood before the new stain section to help delineate it a bit more. All of the logs start on the far left with sun-damaged wood with existing stain on it. In addition, all logs on the far right show two heavy coats of the same exact stain in the same color applied by brush. All work was done on a single log wall. The prep is what happens in between and what makes all the difference on the final appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From top to bottom, the prep methods are:&#xA;1) Media blasting with crushed glass media alone (no finish sanding).&#xA;2) Media blasted with crushed glass media, followed by finish sanding with Buffy Pads (Sashco version of 3M non-woven pads). You can make out a faint line in between the media blasting and the Buffy pad sanding.&#xA;3) Power washing, followed by finishing sanding with Osborn brushes. You can make out a faint line between the power washing and the finish sanding.&#xA;4) Power washing alone (no finish sanding).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our goal was to show log home owners how different prep methods affect the final outcome of their stain. They will often choose to sample the stain on some scrap piece of wood from around the house. When the real home staining starts, after all prep is done and they're now applying stain with a sprayer, they find that the color is much darker than their sample. It's why we wrote that blog post and preach &quot;PROPERLY sample&quot; everywhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, for sure - you can use these different types of wood prep to get the &quot;ombre&quot; stain look that is popular these days. Just don't do it on a full home unless you're really daring and on the cutting edge of log home style. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1210" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-10-05T14:49:41.070" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T14:49:41.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2514" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-10-05T15:12:36.707" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;With anything there are numerous options when it comes to tools for woodworking. Use this tag when you need help selecting tools or narrowing the selection based on guidelines and criteria for your project. (Please note that this tag should not be used for tool purchasing recommendations, as purchasing recommendations are out of scope for this site.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2019-10-07T22:01:09.120" LastActivityDate="2019-10-07T22:01:09.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2515" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-10-05T15:12:36.707" Score="0" Body="When you are not sure what tools would best suit a particular application or project. (Please note that this tag should not be used for tool purchasing recommendations, as purchasing recommendations are out of scope for this site.)" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2019-10-07T22:01:09.120" LastActivityDate="2019-10-07T22:01:09.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2458" CreationDate="2015-10-05T15:30:54.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Green wood IS easier to work with.  dried oak or hickory is like carving into stone. The moisture softens the fibers making them easier to cut. (can really tell the difference when turning) So I'm going to guess like grfrazee that it is either your technique or your tools or both.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not surprisingly a good sharp tool is almost always preferred when working with wood, and generally the sharper the better (I can't think of any off the top of my head that don't require sharp tools but I'm sure they exist!). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now using a draw knife (I'm assuming that you are using something similar as below) The ones I'm familiar with have two sides.  A flat side and a rounded side like the second photo.  One common mistake is to put the flat side against the piece you are trying to shape.  While there might be specific uses to do that, the other side (the 2nd picture) should (almost) always be against the piece you are shaping.  This allows for more control.   Using the flat side will tend to have the blade 'dig' into the piece causing some (many?) of your issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mMb1M.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mMb1M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Front&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jj9rn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jj9rn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Back&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last sometimes the orientation of the grain/wood can make a difference.  If the grain is at an angle to the face you are shaping the grain can catch the bar and draw it deeper into the wood.  When this is the case, usually you can flip the piece 180 degrees the long way can pull from the other end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T15:30:54.540" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2517" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2518" CreationDate="2015-10-05T16:22:27.383" Score="7" ViewCount="7770" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having looked up chainsaw safety videos on the internet it seems that a big danger with chainsaws is kickback - where the tip of the chainsaw contacts something unexpected and throws the blade back up towards the users head/neck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to make a plunge cut with a chainsaw into thick wood safely (i.e. pushing the tip of the chainsaw into a thick block of wood, maybe 12 inches thick) or is this just a flat out bad idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the potential kickback on entry hard to avoid or control?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the wood more likely to bind onto the chain in this case and/or break it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="915" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T08:32:13.560" Title="Is there a safe way to make a plunge cut with a chainsaw?" Tags="|safety|chain-saw|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2517" CreationDate="2015-10-05T16:30:33.403" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a way to make a plunge cut with a chainsaw into thick wood safely (i.e. pushing the tip of the chainsaw into a thick block of wood, maybe 12 inches thick) or is this just a flat out bad idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plunge cuts with a chainsaw are made all the time with chain mortisers, like the one pictured below made by Makita.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9g4XM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9g4XM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;mortiser&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you will notice that this mortiser has a sturdy frame to control the saw and has a controlled rate of feed provided by the plunge handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is the potential kickback on entry hard to avoid or control?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the contrary, a chainsaw that is controlled by your arms has neither of these very necessary things.  Chainsaws are quite powerful and can very easily overpower the confining power of your arms.  Couple this with the variable feed rate your non-mechanized arms supply, and you have the recipe for disaster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is the wood more likely to bind onto the chain in this case and/or break it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without the control of a supporting frame, I'd say it's easier to twist the chainsaw bar and bind the chain.  Therefore, your risk for breakage is higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not to say that you &lt;em&gt;can't&lt;/em&gt; do plunge cuts with a chainsaw (I've done it myself on rare occasions where I had some sort of physical barrier keeping the saw from flying into my face).  It's just not a very good idea.  People who do timber-framed houses for a living might have a different experience, but that's just my two cents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T16:30:33.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2484" CreationDate="2015-10-05T18:38:54.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, if you want a glue-able joint, a table saw cannot do it.  There is too much 'wiggle' when pushing the wood through.  A high end cabinet saw with a large carriage and a very good blade might manage it, but my table saw and certainly any portable shop saw just do not have the ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, not being able to (yet) by a joiner you will need to go the old fashioned route.  A hand plane.  My recommendation is to get the longest one (in relation to your boards) that you can afford (find in your shop) and use that.  The reason for the longer the sole, the easier it will be to make flat over a longer board.  a 2' board can be a pretty small plane, an 8' board could use a longer one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most reading I've done has suggested planing/joining any cut on a table saw to make a nice surface to glue.  The hand plane will need a bit more practice than a joiner but it is significantly cheaper (assuming to don't ruin lots of wood...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T18:38:54.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2517" CreationDate="2015-10-05T18:58:31.890" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you do a plunging cut with a chain saw?  Yes, I've done a couple though I don't recommend it.  It can be extremely dangerous for those who don't have much experience with one and still moderately so to those who have plenty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I knew of one guy that would put one cut down the middle of large logs (a cross section) put gunpowder in it and light it off to 'split' the wood.  Not a smart idea in my opinion.  as far as the kick back is concerned, that part is only a concern until the tip has entered into the wood far enough it can't 'jump' any more (1-2 inches).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However there are still plenty of things that can go wrong.  Pushing the saw to hard can bind the chain and stop the motor, if you are unlucky enough it can be wedged into the log and very hard to get back out.  a twisting of the saw or the log can break the chain or the bar, neither are safe problems.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chainsaw carvers do a lot of things with chain saws a normal logger would avoid.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately it is possible, but know what you are doing, understand your equipment and make sure you wear all your safety equipment, gloves, helmet, faceguard, chaps, etc. to reduce the chance of an injury should you still feel the need to try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T18:58:31.890" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2521" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2523" CreationDate="2015-10-06T00:00:36.230" Score="11" ViewCount="1436" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2484/methods-of-jointing-without-a-jointer#comment4924_2484&quot;&gt;this comment&lt;/a&gt; on this question on &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2484/methods-of-jointing-without-a-jointer&quot;&gt;jointing without a jointer&lt;/a&gt; it was stated that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;there's a trick where, if you plane two edges at once, they'll fit together even if they aren't perfectly square to the face&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does one go about doing that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T01:30:15.400" Title="How to make a good joint by hand planing both edges at the same time?" Tags="|joinery|jointer|hand-planing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2521" CreationDate="2015-10-06T00:27:33.467" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to take a stab here and guess that the intention is that if you take two boards clamped together you could plane two edges at the same time (assuming your plane blade is wide enough).  Those two planed edges would fit perfectly together if you rotate one board 180 degrees before fitting them together.  This is true even if you're not planing at exactly 90 degrees or square to the face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assume for a moment that you plane at -- say -- 75 degrees to the face.  Now you have two 75 degree angles.  If you try to just join those two edges you'll obviously not have a flat board -- you'll have a 30 degree angle (or 150 depending on how you want to look at it).  If you flip one board 180 degrees (e.g. take the board on the right of your 2 board sandwich you just planed and rotate it such that its outer face is now the inner face of the sandwich) then you've effectively turned one 75 degree angle into a 15 degree angle such that when the two edges touch you have a perfect 90 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="566" LastEditorUserId="566" LastEditDate="2015-10-06T00:32:37.883" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T00:32:37.883" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2521" CreationDate="2015-10-06T01:21:48.963" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been curious about this as well.  Illustrated using my mastery of MS Paint, it appears you clamp the boards together, plane to your heart's content, then un-clamp and just flatten the boards out...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;first (exagerated)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1PtN1.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1PtN1.png&quot; alt=&quot;step 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;then...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QwbIU.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QwbIU.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1112" LastEditorUserId="1112" LastEditDate="2015-10-06T01:30:15.400" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T01:30:15.400" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2524" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2526" CreationDate="2015-10-06T01:59:03.977" Score="5" ViewCount="1275" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am considering hiring a cabinet maker to construct a built-in workbench for machine work and would like to know the key design considerations and recommended jointing options for such a project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The table would be mounted to a stone wall in the back and one side and have two legs. I envision using something like white oak 4x4s for the legs and having a 3&quot; or 4&quot; hard maple top. It has to be able to mount a large vise. I have seen Sjosberg benches but they are not really appropriate since they are designed for wood work, not machine work and blacksmithing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be a recommended way of constructing the maple top and joining it to the legs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the photo below is traditional machine vise bench:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cgh3E.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cgh3E.png&quot; alt=&quot;vise bench&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like many such benches it has cast iron supports, not an option for me. Also, notice top is made from 2x4s sistered together, which seems logical to me. Do you bolt them together?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-10-06T11:15:36.457" LastActivityDate="2020-02-12T00:43:20.240" Title="Design considerations for a machinist's work bench" Tags="|design|workbench|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2517" CreationDate="2015-10-06T08:32:13.560" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. If you look at the tip of the chainsaw it's shaped like a half-circle. Only the top half will kick back hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to insert the bottom-half first. Once that is securely inside the wood, Turn the blade to go straighter in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL;DR: The top half of the tip is extra scary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1213" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T08:32:13.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2524" CreationDate="2015-10-06T09:36:44.480" Score="10" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;and would like to know the key design considerations and recommended jointing options for such a project&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately there isn't any easy answer to this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with many woodworkers when I was designing my own workbench I immersed myself in the topic and spent months collecting images, step-by-step build articles, reading and analysing (over-analysing) books and online sources for any and all suggestions about what materials to use, what joints to favour etc. And the inescapable conclusion from doing this is that there simply isn't any one particularly good design &lt;em&gt;for any aspect&lt;/em&gt; of a workbench. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People can't even agree on the minimum thickness for the worktop, there certainly isn't any agreement on what joints should be used (any reasonable joint is strong enough, and many can be further reinforced if needed/desired).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as the chief requirements are met — stability and strength — then everything else is up for grabs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Machinists' benches don't have all the same requirements as a woodworking bench of course but you do see the same individuality in them too. The materials, worktop thickness, key design aspects (including shape and worktop height) all vary enormously from one to another. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the take-home message is this: &lt;strong&gt;strong &lt;em&gt;enough&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;stable &lt;em&gt;enough&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And price of materials doesn't ensure this, by which you can read that it doesn't need to be made from hardwoods. Even if a bench at some point has to be able to support something like an engine or a rear-axle assembly it could be made from inexpensive 2x construction wood throughout, as many real-world examples show.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I envision using something like white oak 4x4s for the legs and having a 3&quot; or 4&quot; hard maple top. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you're set on the materials from an aesthetic point of view I would suggest you re-think a thick maple worktop. It undeniably makes for a strong, attractive slab, and it will be extremely tough and durable, but as amazing as this might seem to a non-woodworker (some woodworkers too!) a solid-wood worktop is &lt;em&gt;less&lt;/em&gt; stable than a much cheaper top made from one or more manmade boards, including if made from the cheapest and most maligned of the lot, OSB or oriented-strand board. Another very un-admired material is particleboard (UK: chipboard) which in sufficient thickness is immensely strong — this is the core material of most laminate kitchen countertops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference in price between a hard maple worktop of 3-4&quot; thickness and one made from some combination of MDF, plywood or particleboard would be considerable, possibly approaching a factor of ten. And the top made from the manmade boards will be more stable as mentioned, and likely at least as strong so actually represents far better value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have your heart set on seeing maple (or another hardwood) on the top you wouldn't have to give it up entirely while still taking advantage of manufactured boards for the bulk of the construction. Hardwood edging strips are usually used on the edges anyway for better durability, and in addition to those a 'skin' of thinner hardwood boards for the top will give the appearance of a benchtop made from hardwood but at a fraction of the price. A particularly good and inexpensive way of skinning the top has been used by a few people on their workbenches: laying a layer of laminate flooring on the surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A worktop laminated up from board materials will save money in another way, as in addition to the savings in materials costs the build time will be significantly shorter because it's far easier to construct. Instead of a lengthy and sometimes tricky flattening and smoothing operation at the end of the glue-up of a solid-wood top, a laminated top can be essentially ready to go as soon as the last glue joint has dried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also, notice top is made from 2x4s sistered together, which seems logical to me. Do you bolt them together?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes you can if desired. This is sometimes used as the sole joining method, here's an example for a heavy-duty workbench &lt;em&gt;200 pounds of &quot;ain't goin' nowhere&quot;&lt;/em&gt; as its maker says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z5R9Q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z5R9Q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Through-bolted worktop&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other times the threaded rod is used as a reinforcing/stabilising measure, with the boards glued together as normal. To be frank though, this is not needed if the boards are glued together properly (glue joints are &lt;em&gt;at least&lt;/em&gt; as strong as the wood itself) but it is sometimes seen as a necessary precaution if the top will see regular exposure to moisture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible leg joints&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;At the crudest end of the spectrum you could literally nail the entire thing together! It would be plenty sturdy if done right. I'm sure you would prefer not to go this way and for various reasons I wouldn't recommend it anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As touched on above there are innumerable options for true joinery (multiple joint types and multiple variations of each one) and as such it's difficult to recommend just one. What I'll suggest instead is a simple-to-do, very strong, but most importantly &lt;em&gt;reversible&lt;/em&gt; construction method that I think is ideally suited to the home workbench: bolt it together. And with very heavy use there's no risk of glue joints creeping or fracturing if you don't have any! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an illustration of how it can be done:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TwMZa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TwMZa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bolted workbench construction&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a couple of options on the joints:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4nvfU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4nvfU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bolting options&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Joining worktop to leg assemblies&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This as you'd probably guess by now can be done in many ways. I'm a fan of the simplest, strongest option for this sort of thing so I would suggest using some of these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e4xZ7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e4xZ7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;L-bracket&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes they're crude, but very effective and quick to install. Plus of course it keeps with my theme of keeping the construction simple yet strong, and capable of being knocked down at any point in the future in case you need to move or alter the bench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T09:36:44.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2528" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-07T17:57:31.933" Score="3" ViewCount="319" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Douglas Fir post that I want to use on a project. Since I bought it a couple of years ago, drops of sap have oozed out of it and now cover the surface. What is the best way to remove these?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1151" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-11-02T14:45:51.697" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T14:45:51.697" Title="How do I remove sap that has oozed out of a board?" Tags="|finishing|sap|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-10-07T20:09:29.157" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2529" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2533" CreationDate="2015-10-07T19:17:11.357" Score="7" ViewCount="12864" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought 2 hand planes last week at flea markets, both of them together cost me less than $20 (from 2 different places).  Both of course needed some TLC, one was pretty orange on the top, bottom sides, and everywhere in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I want to know is how to identify different hand planes to know what I have and if they have any special uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One has No. 6 stamped on the end, though I had to clean the rust off to read it.  The other one just says Craftsman and assumes you know what you got.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I did a search for No. 6 hand plane I got a lot of images that of different planes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some have grooves some don't, here I assume it has to do with preventing either a 'suction' of two large flat surfaces or just a way to help prevent dust and bits getting caught under the plane and affecting it's use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I happen to have a picture of the 2 I bought below, but think of it more as an example.  I want to be able to identify the types of planes not just these.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oTCq9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oTCq9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hand planes&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2018-05-10T00:02:28.067" Title="How do I identify hand planes?" Tags="|hand-tools|tools|plane|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="67" CreationDate="2015-10-07T19:17:16.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the odder suggestions I've seen: mothballs in the drawers. Mothballs work largely by outgassing, and since the vapor is heavier than air you should, theoretically, wind up with a layer of vapor pushing air -- and oxygen -- out of the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, that's fairly nasty stuff, especially if your workshop is poorly ventilated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just tossing it out as an observation, not a recommendation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T19:17:16.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2529" CreationDate="2015-10-07T19:38:29.873" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What I want to know is how to identify different hand planes to know what I have and if they have any special uses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My go-to source for Stanley hand plane information is Patrick Leach's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0a.html&quot;&gt;Blood &amp;amp; Gore&lt;/a&gt; webpage.  Don't let the name put you off - he has a plethora of information about all types of Stanley-made tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The planes were made during different years, and they are grouped into what are called &lt;em&gt;type studies&lt;/em&gt;.  The &lt;a href=&quot;http://hyperkitten.com/tools/stanley_bench_plane/&quot;&gt;Hyper Kitten page&lt;/a&gt; is the one I normally use for identifying types, including a handy &lt;a href=&quot;http://hyperkitten.com/tools/stanley_bench_plane/dating_flowchart.php#Types%201-20&quot;&gt;interactive flow chart&lt;/a&gt;.  Based on the little I can see if your No. 6C, it looks like a pre-&lt;a href=&quot;http://hyperkitten.com/tools/stanley_bench_plane/type_study.php#Type%2012&quot;&gt;Type 12&lt;/a&gt; since that looks to be a &quot;low knob&quot; in the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Craftsman hand planes were made by a few different companies over the years (Millers Falls, Sargent, etc.).  I have little experience with Craftsman hand planes since I avoid buying them.  This is not to say that they won't make fine user planes, because they will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, for Millers Falls hand planes, I usually start &lt;a href=&quot;http://oldtoolheaven.com/price/price.htm&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for my research.  For Sargent planes, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sargent-planes.com/&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://timetestedtools.wordpress.com/2012/08/10/sargent-planes-by-the-numberwith-pictures/&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; are good starting points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Now I happen to have a picture of the 2 I bought below, but think of it more as an example. I want to be able to identify the types of planes not just these. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're looking down the rabbit hole here.  There are a ton of other different old makers (Dunlap, Lakeside, Bailey, Shapleigh, etc.) and a quite a few newer makers too (Lee Valley, Lie-Nielsen, Groz, WoodRiver, etc.).  I'm afraid there isn't a good comprehensive site for all of these, so you'll have to do some research on your own for some of the lesser-known makers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also a member of LumberJocks, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/topics/35888&quot;&gt;one of the threads&lt;/a&gt; there is dedicated to people who restore old tools.  If all else fails, someone there can likely identify your tool if you give them enough information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some have grooves some don't, here I assume it has to do with preventing either a 'suction' of two large flat surfaces or just a way to help prevent dust and bits getting caught under the plane and affecting it's use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those grooves are called &quot;corrugations.&quot;  The marketing idea was that they reduce friction between the sole and the workpiece, thereby making planing easier.  In my experience, if there is any reduction in friction, I have yet to feel it.  However, they do make flattening the sole &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; easier since there is less material to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-10-07T19:45:41.007" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T19:45:41.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2529" CreationDate="2015-10-08T01:10:30.407" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I want to know is how to identify different hand planes to know what I have and if they have any special uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much like grfrazee discusses in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/2531/128&quot;&gt;his answer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid there isn't a good comprehensive site for all of these, so you'll have to do some research on your own for some of the lesser-known makers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Common/Uncommon Type Breakdown&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There could be a lot of bleed over between these categories but I think we could cover some good ground if we look at the different plane &lt;em&gt;types&lt;/em&gt; (Although I have never heard this term they can also be called &lt;em&gt;type studies&lt;/em&gt;). So that way if you see a plane you can get an idea of its purpose and know whether or not you need it in your collection. Again, this list is not meant to be extensive as there are many other types and some specialty types. The webpage &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0a.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Patrick's Blood and Gore&lt;/a&gt; covers them more then we ever could in this format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Block&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These planes are smaller in size (Not to be confused with finger planes which are even smaller) and many can be worked with one hand. Usually easy to spot because of their size and the handle is also usually the cap iron/chipbreaker (at least for metal construction variety.) so you hand, while working the tool, would rest of over the iron. They specialize in end grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Jack&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully it is safe to say that this would be one of the most common plane type you will run into. The &amp;quot;Jack of all trades&amp;quot; plane is what you would picture when you think of a plane. Metal ones should have a knob and a tote(handle) and the body would hide the plane iron inside ( as supposed to something like a rabbet plane.). Wooden one might not have a knob but would be about the same length. They are also shorter than a jointer plane but tend to be larger than the smoother. This is a general roughing plane. used before a jointer or a smoother depending on the project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Jointer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are some of the easier ones to spot as they are the family of long planes given there nature of true up panel faces and edges. You can expect these to be near or exceeding 20 inches long. The plane in your picture surely is a corrugated jointer plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Smoothing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These can be seen as slightly smaller jack planes. As far as metal planes the anatomy of these and jacks are very similar. Smoothing can be also seen in how the blade is sharpened. In that the edges are &lt;em&gt;slightly&lt;/em&gt; curved as to prevent making grooves in the work. The blade is sharpened, in such a way, does &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; solely mean that plane is a smoothing plane. The iron can also be placed at a much higher angle. It is designed to make very fine shavings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Finger&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one is fairly simple. These are &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; tiny planes. Some of them are functional but there a number of novelty ones out there. Meant for really detailed work like on carvings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rebate/Shoulder&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rebate planes and shoulder planes have the same basic design characteristic. The blade is the same width as the body. The body will have opening on both sides to allow the blade to extend the width of the tool. Rebate/Shoulder are not really tool synonyms while they perform the same function the shoulder plane has a more acute angle so that it can cut end grain better (Like that of a tenon shoulder).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Router&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plane with a large, typically round, sole. Blade can be moved up and down in the mouth of the plane. Modern varieties have can be two knobs for handles. The large sole acts as a fence so the tool can move about in a recess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Compass&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plane with an adjustable sole that can cut uniform convex and concave surfaces. Adjustable sole is the key identifying feature here which is just a thin plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Moudling&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These planes are easy to spot as well. There are a wide variety of planes that are called moulding planes. Most blades are not simple rectangular blades with flat edges. Used for making curves, hollows, beads and other more complication moudling cuts. Blades would have the same shape as the cutting edge of modern bits for a powered router. This is huge category.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scraper&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one works just like a card scraper except that there is a body and handle to hold the card/blade as supposed to free hand. Blade is installed in near vertical position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Grooving/Plow&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar type of planes that can be used to cut tongue and groove (Older wooden varieties came in a matched pair) and rabbets. The blades were not that wide and the had fences to govern depth of cut and help run along a boards edge. The tongue blade would have a gap in the center and the matched blade sized for aforementioned gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Combination/Universal&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to spout the phrase &amp;quot;I like planes and plane accessories&amp;quot; you most definitely own a combination plane. Easy to spot, if the set is near complete, as you will find many additional parts depending on what you want to do with it at any given moment in time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These planes can usually be identified by the multiple fences and fence attachments. More easily spotted if you see the interchangeable blades. The blades, depending on what is available given the planes manufacturer, would be able to do moulding, rabbeting, beading, ooges, grooves.... the list goes on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These names are likely different / vary between regions. If another name comes up we should edit the post to cover the varieties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T03:13:48.330" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2529" CreationDate="2015-10-08T01:41:23.110" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of great info already.  A couple of pictures to spice it up.  In my experience the most common flea market, yard sale, antique store, etc. planes and what I happen to have are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;block plane&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MVKAQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MVKAQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;block plane&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You see these guys everywhere.  This is a Stanley No. 110&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;smoothing plane&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YQIik.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YQIik.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;smoothing plane&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a Stanley No. 4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;jack plane&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kClib.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kClib.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a Stanley No. 5 (the tote is a little broken)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;family photo&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Buj3e.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Buj3e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1112" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T01:41:23.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2535" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2538" CreationDate="2015-10-08T08:07:11.317" Score="10" ViewCount="3474" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a tool to smooth/flatten down a surface in a rectangular channel in the center of a piece of wood (I constructed the piece by gluing two halves together, but stupidly didn't clean the channel halves well prior to gluing).  The channel measures ~1&quot; wide x 2&quot; long x 8&quot; deep (you can think of it as an 8&quot; deep mortise).  It's roughly square, but needs a lot of help.  Only one surface actually needs to be flat/smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best tool that comes to mind for the job is a file or rasp, but I need the handle offset so that it can actually get in the channel (the piece's construction is such that without an offset handle I wouldn't be able to put the face of the tool against the surface of the wood).  Alternatively if there were a way for me to sand inside the channel that would work too, but I'm unfamiliar with any way to get sand paper in a channel that deep/narrow.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a ton of searching for things like &quot;crank necked rasp&quot; and &quot;offset handle file&quot; I finally learned that there is a name for what I think is my dream tool: straight ironing rasp.  This, for example, looks great:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oXb2U.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oXb2U.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's pretty pricey and ships from Europe.  There seem to be tons of curved ironing rasps available from many of the usual online stores in the US, but very few straight options.  So far this is the only one I'm able to find.  This &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/product/249&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; implies that Auriou used to make a straight one, but now I can't seem to find it anywhere. Am I missing something here?  Why are there so few of these tools?  Does it go by a more common name that I'm just unaware of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="566" LastEditorUserId="566" LastEditDate="2015-10-08T17:40:24.327" LastActivityDate="2017-11-06T07:44:05.387" Title="Are there alternative tools to a straight ironing rasp (or why are they so hard to find)?" Tags="|hand-tools|tools|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2535" CreationDate="2015-10-08T08:28:33.107" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, files/rasps with offset handles are very specialised. I don't think I've seen one in the wild &lt;em&gt;ever&lt;/em&gt;; I know of them only from old books and from tool catalogues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can in theory form your own cranked-handle file or rasp from a standard one. It requires a relatively minor job of annealing and bending at the tang end, but there is some risk of losing temper near the business end of the tool so I'd be hesitant to try it unless I had no other choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that the best solution here is a type of hand router. You can buy a number of types and there are a few basic types that can be made in the shop, but the &lt;em&gt;chisel router&lt;/em&gt; AKA &quot;poor man's router&quot; might be just the ticket since they're so simple: you just need a piece of wood (and even pine will do), a chisel and a suitable drill bit to make one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KZHc6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KZHc6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Poor man&amp;#39;s router&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More detail given in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_2a_FwjAgk&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the YouTube video&lt;/a&gt; the above image is taken from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T08:28:33.107" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="821" CreationDate="2015-10-08T10:02:37.130" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that's the best treatment you could try is to uses microwaves. The information on this site &lt;a href=&quot;http://powderpost-beetle.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://powderpost-beetle.com&lt;/a&gt; should work. It destroys worms in the depths of the wood even covered with plasterboard or chipboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1223" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-10-08T12:38:46.347" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T12:38:46.347" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2535" CreationDate="2015-10-08T10:46:06.437" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's roughly square, but needs a lot of help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Paring Chisel&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first thought for this was a paring chisel. Especially if one of the surfaces needs to be flat and smooth. Paring chisels are designed for clean &lt;em&gt;long&lt;/em&gt; cuts and are not meant to be struck. Instead you could stand over the channel an push the chisel down with your body weight. The tools length would help keep the channel square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your recess is actually 1 inch wide then using a 1 inch paring chisel would be the best choice. Those chisels are designed with length in mind so finding one that is at least 8 inches long shouldn't be too hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have never used one before test on another piece. These are not inherently hard to use but the ease of work can depend on your wood species.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ueqBe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ueqBe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Paring Chisels&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wkfinetools.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;WkFineTools&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rasp blade you have picture would not make for a smooth surface. If it was like a cabinet rasp that would be better. Much like Graphus I have not seen handles rasps with necks like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that my presumption was partial wrong about the work piece I can offer another suggestion. Perhaps a swan neck mortise chisel? Really depends on the angle you need. One primary purpose is to clean the bottom of mortises but the curved head might still be useful. I think it would be harder for this one to get a clean surface but if you are careful it could still work. I have an even better suggestion after that though.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Cranked neck paring chisel&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even better though is I found that they make cranked neck paring chisels as well. They can also be called cranked shaft paring chisels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8GRLV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8GRLV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cranked neck paring chisel&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://woodworkingshows.ga&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;woodworkingshows&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T17:33:22.387" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2535" CreationDate="2015-10-08T15:48:49.003" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a tool to smooth/flatten down a surface in a rectangular channel in the center of a piece of wood&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might consider using a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lie-nielsen.com/nodes/4098/planemakers-floats&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;planemaker's float&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GwpFM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GwpFM.png&quot; alt=&quot;float&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;but I need the handle offset so that it can actually get in the channel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, if you need the swan neck on the tool, a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/joinery-floats/1-ff-t-face-floats?node=4089&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;face float&lt;/a&gt; would work too:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eUeJw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eUeJw.png&quot; alt=&quot;face float&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are similar to files, but the teeth are much larger and triangular-shaped (similar to what a saw would look like if it was much thicker).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Planemaker's floats were traditionally used by wooden plane makers to flatten the part of the plane where the iron beds and to flatten other parts of the plane a regular chisel couldn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Face floats are useful for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/The%20Lie%20Nielsen%20Face%20Joinery%20Float.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cleaning up tenon cheeks&lt;/a&gt;.  They would be suitable for your use given the needs you stated in your Question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The couple of links I provided were for Lie-Nielsen versions of these products - and they come with a pretty hefty price tag (as to most LN tools).  However, it is simple enough to &lt;a href=&quot;http://planemakersfloats.blogspot.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;make these yourself&lt;/a&gt; if you have access to tool steel, triangular files, a means to heat/harden/temper steel, and patience.  The heat treatment may be unnecessary according to some people, but it will make the edges last longer.  The nice thing about making them yourself is you can make them as long as you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why are there so few of these tools?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume for the general capitalist pig-dog reason - no/little demand.  If you haven't noticed, machine-made rasps these days leave a lot to be desired.  Companies like Auriou and Liogier are the only ones I know of that do hand-stitched rasps, and every review I've read is that they cut like a dream compared to machine-made rasps.  With the overhead that goes into tooling for making the different tools, having special tooling for a rasp that rarely gets bought (I assume your ironing rasp falls into this category) makes no economic sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-10-08T19:00:49.153" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T19:00:49.153" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1625" CreationDate="2015-10-08T18:44:40.513" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question's answer depends on whether you are looking for a user plane, i.e. something you intend to use, or a collectible plane that you want to show off or resell for a higher price.  The latter is very complex, but the former is straightforward. The easiest answer is to purchase a premium, new plane and call it a day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you purchase an old plane, you will have to expect to put some work into it such as derusting and cleaning. A number 4, a smoother, requires a bit more work than other planes. The sole should be as flat as possible to ensure very thin shavings. Don't expect it to be flat when you buy one. It can take anywhere from an hour or more to flatten the sole using cheap and easily obtained materials. There are tons of online resources that explain the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under no circumstances should you buy one that has any size cracks, large chips or deep pitting. If you see any, kindly refuse. Such defects can compromise its function or its structural integrity. I would only buy such planes with the intent of salvaging it's parts that are in good condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The price of the plane depends on a variety of factors, including type, model and overall condition.  It is hard to say without looking at it. There are some #4 that are very rare, fetching hundreds of dollars, but it requires a good eye and experience. $15 is a reasonable price for a number 4, even for a less desirable newer post war type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="806" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T18:44:40.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2541" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-08T19:37:22.843" Score="5" ViewCount="1718" Body="&lt;p&gt;Somewhat akin to the purpose behind this question (&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1744/recommendation-for-manual-planing-and-sanding&quot;&gt;Recommendation for manual planing and sanding&lt;/a&gt;), I am seeking advice from some experts that would help a hobbyist such as myself trying to manufacture large panels of wood made by joining together (mostly by glue - no fancy biscuit, dovetails, or dowel joints).  I even ran into problems when I had access to a decent variety of equipment at a hobby wood shop, when the thickness planers feed width was smaller than the width of the panel I was trying to prepare.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I figure cabinet makers make some pretty big armoires and wardrobes, how do you smooth up the glue joints and even up the panels so that they are nice and level?  Hand planes (manual and electric) would probably only give excellent results in the hands of the truly skilled.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the thickness planers and hand tools described in both the question and answers in the linked question above really the only options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="729" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T17:27:54.400" Title="Tips for planing huge panels of joined wood" Tags="|joinery|thickness-planer|planning|panel|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2030" CreationDate="2015-10-08T20:15:16.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way to do this is to use a router with preferably a plunge base and a makeshift circle cutting jig. There are many plans available online for free. Some routers come with an edge guide which can be pinned on one end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a plunge base, you'll have to drill a hole on the inside tangent of your circle so that you can start your cut easily. Make sure you take shallow depths for each complete revolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to fix your work piece on a substrate using hot glue, pin nails or double sided tape. It will prevent the inner circle from breaking lose during the final passes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="806" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T20:15:16.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2541" CreationDate="2015-10-08T21:55:09.847" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Find a local cabinet shop or woodworking store that has a wide belt sander.  My local hardwood supplier will run panels through their 50&quot; wide sander for just a few bucks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My planer will handle a 13&quot; wide board.  If I need a large panel, I'll do the minimal amount of planing possible on the raw boards, then glue them into sub-panels less than 13&quot;.  Once those are together and planed flat, I'll join them into my final panel, use a hand plane to get it close, then take the panel in and with just a few passes through the belt sander, it is perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T21:55:09.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2535" CreationDate="2015-10-09T00:28:09.587" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another option:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.japanwoodworker.com/Product/159198/Iwasaki-Crank-Neck-Flat-Bastard-File-With-Handle.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Crank Neck Flat Bastard File&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not unlike the rasp you found, but not pricey, can be ordered domestically, and probably produces a smoother surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1228" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T00:28:09.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2541" CreationDate="2015-10-09T17:31:42.147" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used cabinet scraper in situations like this. Get the wood lined up really well by using cauls to keep the faces in line, and a very sharp scraper to remove the glue lines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scrapers are great at removing glue and planer marks (wash boarding) on smaller projects, it is labor intensive and the results are great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T17:31:42.147" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2546" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-10T18:11:44.930" Score="4" ViewCount="1351" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read a little and I see that butcher blocks are really sturdy, but they only seem to be used for flat surfaces, can I somehow adapt the technique for walking cane. eg. make a dozen cylinder and glued them on top of each other ? That would probably be pretty strong in the up-down axis (assuming the cane is standing up) what if I wanted to reinforce it so that it can't bend as easily ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I'm not looking to get the butcher block look or even actually make a cane, I'm looking into techniques to reinforce objects of that shape aka long, curved and thin pieces. For example, an &quot;S&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1236" LastEditorUserId="1236" LastEditDate="2015-10-11T19:57:16.493" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T18:21:13.673" Title="How can I create a sturdy walking cane" Tags="|technique|strength|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2546" CreationDate="2015-10-11T00:35:44.133" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are looking for a way to get the butcher block effect in a cane (ie: stacked dowel blocks), the best way to accomplish this would be to create your dowel parts and drill them through the middle. Then use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.grainger.com/category/threaded-rods/bolts/fasteners/ecatalog/N-8k5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;threaded rod&lt;/a&gt; to hold the pieces together (along with glue) and provide extra strength. You'd have the handle of the cane also held together by the threaded rod, and put a cap at the bottom of the can to protect that end as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is, while it will add extra strength, it's still not something I'd be throwing any kind of weight onto. You'd be better off in the strength department by creating a laminated piece lengthwise (ie: gluing several long, thin pieces together), then turning it on a lathe to get it round. This would provide the strength you'd need for a can, but I don't think it would give you the look you are thinking of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T00:35:44.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2548" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-11T01:12:43.753" Score="8" ViewCount="1597" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a student in woodworking.  Today, when I tried cutting my 2&quot; thickness maple wood, it jumped back when I got towards the bottom corner.  The second time I tried cutting another piece, the same thing happened and pushed the wood away.  Is there a certain technique?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure about the specific type of miter saw I used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1238" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-01-12T14:08:34.233" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T14:08:34.233" Title="Is there a certain way to cut a 2&quot; thickness piece of wood on the miter saw?" Tags="|miter-saw|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2548" CreationDate="2015-10-11T01:48:42.307" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, you should have the piece of wood you are cutting (work piece) pressed firmly against the fence.  The rotation of the blade will pull the work piece toward the fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using a sliding miter saw, the proper technique is to pull the blade forward, then down, then push it back into the piece.  If you are trying to use it like a radial arm saw (down and out), that might be your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T01:48:42.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2548" CreationDate="2015-10-11T03:20:33.813" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You mention thickness but you don't mention length or where the cut was on your wood in respect to that length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Use your fence effectively&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the sounds of it you are cutting near the end of what sounds like short wood. Many mitre saws (single/dual compound) don't have a full fence (so that the blade has room to rotate) and they taper down near the blade. That gives room for wood to move around since it is not supported by the full fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The saw will push the wood against the fence so you want to work with that natural tendency. You could make the fence longer by screwing a straight board across the existing fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Support the work&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the wood is long be sure that you support the ends because you cut it you will have changed each ends centre of gravity which will make it pop up into the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Hold the work&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use your hands to hold the wood against the fence provided it is far enough away from the blade. If you are not comfortable holding it as it would put your hand to close then the wood you are cutting is tool small and you are using the wrong tool. Some mitre saw manufactures have clamps that are attached to the fence. Use them if they exist and will fit against your piece. You can use regular clamps as well, again, provided they are away from the operating blade. Clamps are safer to use closer to the blade then your hands. Be careful that the clamp is tightened in case the wood does try and move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Cutting speed&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing would be the speed of cutting. If you try and cut too fast the blade could bind and would stop the blade. That sudden force would move the wood. In general you want to be cutting slow enough to give time for the gullets of the blade to remove dust but not too slow that you burn the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Use the right blade for the job&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just like other saws mitre saws have their own blade that are good for cross cutting, rip cutting, plywood, metal etc. Make sure you are using the right blade for your work. If you were cutting down through end grain, for example, with a cross cut blade it will resist and cut &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; slowly. You risk burning the wood and binding the blade causing damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure of the best overall advice but the wood should have as much as possible supported by the full fence. I don't recommend trying to cut would that is not square against the fence either... like a large dowel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T18:55:11.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2546" CreationDate="2015-10-11T08:50:42.280" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;can I somehow adapt the technique for walking cane. eg. make a dozen cylinder and glued them on top of each other &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can, but I wouldn't recommend it. If you just glued cylinders end to end those joints are end grain to end grain, the weakest glue joint. You would need to reinforce the stick through the centre and drilling perfectly central deep holes into end grain isn't just difficult, it can be impossible with some setups — often you'd need to buy a specialist bit for just this type of work, e.g. a spoon bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems a needless complication anyway, since walking sticks of all sorts have traditionally and still are made from single pieces of wood (often saplings or branches) and they have proven strength and resilience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide you want to go ahead with your glued-up cane regardless, a good idea for the central reinforcement would be fibreglass or carbon-fibre rod. A simple hardwood dowel may be sufficient, but these would be stronger. I'm not certain you can easily buy them in the length you would require, but these are sold for example to make arrow shafts, as well as for fishing poles to give an idea of two possible sources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T08:50:42.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2552" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-11T15:18:07.667" Score="3" ViewCount="196" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a wall hanging knife holder that would be appropriate for two chef's knives. A very simply idea would be to use pegs. Just hang the knife on two pegs. A more elaborate idea I had would be to make sort of a form-fitting socket that the handle and guard of the knife would fit into snugly. The problem here would be that the carving would be difficult. A slotted holder is out of the cards because there is not enough headroom to lift the knife out. Also, the holder is around head level, so it needs to be pull out, not lift out. What would be an optimal, Japanese-quality solution here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A typical chef's knife (blade is about 8 inches, haft is about 4.5 inches):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sjjQU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sjjQU.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastEditorUserId="306" LastEditDate="2015-10-12T01:21:52.880" LastActivityDate="2015-10-12T04:43:23.783" Title="Design for wall-hanging knife holder" Tags="|design|carving|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2546" CreationDate="2015-10-11T19:33:27.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A classic cane is either carved from a single piece of wood, or several pieces connected with double-ended screws or similar hardware. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long-grain wood is quite strong enough by itself for this application, as anyone who has used a fallen branch as a walking stick can attest; crutches, which take more weight than a cane typically does, are also just wood (though typically thicker).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cane's weakest points tend to be either its ends or those screws fastening pieces together. Those areas are often reinforced with metal bands. The simplest way to do that is to turn the wood just barely small enough to force into a short length of tubing; if you look for instructions on making tool handles you'll find detailed instructions for that step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you've admitted that what you want to make isn't really a cane. If you told us what you are really trying to do, and why you don't think hardwood can be strong enough, we might be able to give you more specific advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2015-10-15T18:21:13.673" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T18:21:13.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2552" CreationDate="2015-10-12T04:12:35.457" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First real attempt at using sketchup as I would have a hell of a time explaining this otherwise. Magnets for this type of this are everywhere but like you said you have a ceramic knife. When I found out you were only thinking about 2 knives something like this came to mind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/75l2c.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/75l2c.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blades would enter from each side. Would obviously have to have width a little greater than your longest blade. Small riser in each end will help keep the blade holstered by giving the handle something to rest on. That fulcrum could help the blade rest on top or the holster keeping the cutting edge from sitting. That would largely depend on how your knives are weighted. Also could have small recess on the bottom for air circulation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could take the same basic idea and instead of the blade sitting vertical you could have it laying flat while still angled down. Such a contraption would look odd I think and the one I have picture above would have a better center of gravity and is more flush to the wall. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would have gone for a more curved model but straight lines are easier for me right now.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said you could take the basic idea and arrange them in an array for more knives. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know you might think the peg is too simple but I thought I would include it anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a7Y2W.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a7Y2W.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again the weight center of the blade is important for that to work. Knife is free for access. If you want to hide the pegs you could still make a partial face the concealed the blade. Just need to leave the top open the help the blade get out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-10-12T04:43:23.783" LastActivityDate="2015-10-12T04:43:23.783" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2548" CreationDate="2015-10-13T01:05:53.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like the fence is not adjusted properly and lets the material buckle in and pinch the blade when the cut is almost through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try a cut with a thin, uniform shim that will let one side of the wood gap away a slight amount from the fence on the other side of the blade. If the problem goes away, the fence needs adjusting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When trying this cut, DO NOT let the blade back up until the blade stops, the slight gap at the fence can let the wood move slightly and possibly let the blade catch it and set it off in some direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T01:05:53.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2546" CreationDate="2015-10-13T01:15:41.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 2 ways I know of to keep wood strong, or make it strong when it comes to thin pieces or curves, Steam bending or laminating thin layers just like plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like another post, I have used all-thread to reinforce wood floor vents I custom made for a floor install which was a lot of thin strips glued up to make slotted grills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do understand you do not wish to make canes, but steam bending is one of the ways the curve is made on canes. Heat can be used too, but perhaps that is with green wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T01:15:41.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2558" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-13T03:17:33.390" Score="3" ViewCount="231" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a pallet style table. I am going to be using home made chalk paint that is a mixture of latex and drywall mud/compound. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, on the advice on several websites and my friend you cannot leave bare chalk paint. You need to have some sort of finish on top of it. Several of the tutorials talk about using wax / paste wax. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then there is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://chicmouldings.com/wax-or-varnish-over-chalk-paint-the-showdown&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;showdown&quot; of wax over varnish&lt;/a&gt;. Not just that site either. Reading the first paragraph of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.antiquerestorers.com/Articles/SAL/pastewax.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.antiquerestorers.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;antiquerestorers.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Contrary to popular belief, paste wax is not a good choice for a protective finish. Even though you may still read articles or hear other woodworkers advocating the use of paste wax as a protective finish for raw wood, the simple fact is that when it comes to protection, paste wax is very inferior compared to oil finishes or topcoat finishes like lacquer, varnish, polyurethane etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in short this appears to be a matter fact based opinion where I couldn't go wrong. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, I am using chalk paint on a table that would very well see some wear and tear. More than likely it will come into contact with liquids. I was considering using wax as a top coat but now I am not so sure. In this scenario what should I consider using for a top coat finish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am sure there are other options but my choice in chalk paint is primarily for creating a distressed appearance. It's soft nature is a bonus because that will make getting to bare wood easier. Secondary would be just to experiment. Perhaps once I am done I will not want to be using it again but I have to try!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-10-14T13:59:59.563" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T13:59:59.563" Title="Finish after using chalk paint" Tags="|finishing|furniture|tool-selection|paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2559" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2561" CreationDate="2015-10-13T11:05:28.797" Score="11" ViewCount="643" Body="&lt;p&gt;I decided to make a bunk bed for my room as it is small and I need a desk. I'm a beginner at woodworking and I need some help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have made some &quot;plans&quot;, I will put 7x2m stakes, 4x1.40m each around 10cm x 10cm wide. Each horizontal stake will have a angle bracket under. Each horizontal stake next to another will a a square between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bed dimensions are 140x200cm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is spruce wood a good choice ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I calculate if it supports 2 people (about 70kg each)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Material : &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;10 x &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hornbach.ch/shop/Latte-en-epicea-rabotee-3000x17x36-mm/1009912/article.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wood 3m x 17 x 36 mm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;9 x &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hornbach.ch/shop/Bois-massif-de-construction-100x80x3000-mm-epicea-sapin/8099466/article.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wood 3m x 100 x 180 mm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;20 x &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hornbach.ch/shop/Corniere-dangle-a-charge-lourde-avec-une-nervure-150x150x65-mm-galvanisee-sendzimir-1-unite/8062988/article.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Galvanised steel right-angle brackets: 100 mm long arms, 65mm wide x 2.5mm thick&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plans : &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1VaUE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1VaUEm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OXt89.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OXt89m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oBh8h.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oBh8hm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qLuIC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qLuIC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zh168.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zh168.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1247" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-10-14T13:59:21.453" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T21:19:08.610" Title="Make a bunk bed" Tags="|wood|wood-selection|design|strength|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2558" CreationDate="2015-10-13T11:35:07.570" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Now, on the advice on several websites and my friend you cannot leave bare chalk paint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me this begs the question, why use it then? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Now, on the advice on several websites and my friend you cannot leave bare chalk paint. You need to have some sort of finish on top of it. Several of the tutorials talk about using wax / paste wax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With deference to any of them, I think they've missed the point. Unless its particular qualities are what you want to see in the finished item why use chalk paint in the first place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This same argument extends almost universally to all finishes — &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; do you choose to use any product? For example, if you want the protection provided by varnish you use varnish, if you want the low-sheen 'natural wood' look of an oiled finish you use oil.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With paint it's not much different. You pick — or that should be, you &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; pick — based mainly on the look and level of protection you require (with some financial and practical considerations thrown in as well of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Varnishing chalk paint is basically just silly, unless there are other reasons to be using that paint to begin with, e.g. to use up some remaining chalk paint before it dries in the tin. But as a general principle, they make paints that look, feel and perform much the same as varnished chalk paint, without the need to overcoat with another product. It just makes sense, both money- and time-wise to use a product like that instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In short, I am using chalk paint on a table that would very well see some wear and tear. More than likely it will come into contact with liquids. I was considering using wax as a top coat but now I am not so sure. In this scenario what should I consider using for a top coat finish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wax is, as that quote you included rightly says, a very poor protective finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wax always has been and always will be primarily &lt;em&gt;a surface polish&lt;/em&gt;. Unfortunately that fact has become a little buried in recent years, partly because of the finishing industry's use of flowery (read: inaccurate) language when promoting their products. Wax adds shine and a modicum of extra water-resistance because it makes watery liquids bead up on the surface, just like on a well-waxed car, but this is not actual waterproofing because in actual fact wax is quite porous. If you want a truly water-resistant surface on wood you use varnish or lacquer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarise my recommendations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use chalk paint for the look of chalk paint;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if you need a more durable surface simply don't use chalk paint.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T11:35:07.570" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2559" CreationDate="2015-10-13T11:53:08.550" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is spruce wood a good choice ? Or maybe I should choose a stronger one ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wood species&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Spruce is one of the strongest woods in the world for its weight. Beds of a similar design to yours have been made from other softwoods, including pine and fir, which are not nearly as strong, so I think spruce is a fine choice and you're lucky you have a source of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted to go with a stronger wood you would be looking at a hardwood, e.g. oak, which would be significantly heavier and very likely &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; more expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dimensions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In addition to the inherent strength of the species of wood you use, the size and thickness of the pieces you use is very important. I think you've chosen material that is the right size for each component so nothing to worry about there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stock selection&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;One additional factor to bear in mind is the presence of knots in the wood. Small knots, relatively far apart are not a big problem but a very large knot in the centre of a piece can weaken the wood there significantly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When buying the wood, if possible:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;select pieces with straight, uniform grain;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;don't buy boards with many knots (where you have to buy knotty boards the knots should be small and ideally not numerous);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;prefer boards where the growth rings are close together, not wider apart;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;don't buy any boards that are bent or twisted.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T11:53:08.550" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2559" CreationDate="2015-10-13T12:27:40.050" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am personally not a bit fan of spruce (or pine, or anything the like) for anything but a tool shack in my garden, or similar. But sure enough, spruce is quite resilient. You can most certainly certainly make a bed from that material, which will easily support two people.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For the most part, this is a matter of personal preference. For someone who is unexperienced, it's probably a good choice because it makes your life a lot easier when it comes to working in general, driving screws, or fitting pieces together. Because, well, it's soft wood. Hard wood is a lot harder to work with, and less forgiving to the unexperienced worker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10x10 on the stakes is indeed pretty massive, you could probably get away with 2/3 or one half the thickness for the stakes as well (but better be on the safe side, and the look is much better that way too -- not worth bothering the 1.50 CHF difference).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hornbach is one of the &quot;better&quot; home improvement stores, but still you will have to expect that 90-95% of what they sell as building wood is total crap (at least if they are the same in Switzerland as they are in Germany).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do invest some time to get some proper pieces together, look at every single one, and hold every single one against an even surface, or you will regret it later. Really, take your time. Do not haste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is one of the main reasons why I dislike spruce: While you can get it virtually everywhere, you usually need &lt;em&gt;a lot of time&lt;/em&gt; sorting until you have a couple of usable pieces together. The same store usually sells douglasia in virtually will-buy-blindly quality at +20% the price. Or beech, if you want a hard wood.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Oak is actually pretty much impossible to get in my region unless you go to to specialized dealers (but I guess in Switzerland, that will be very different, in southern Bavaria you can get it anywhere at almost the same price as I'm paying for spruce... but even though it looks a lot better, I wouldn't recommend oak to a beginner, you'll have no fun!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="135" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T12:27:40.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2559" CreationDate="2015-10-14T00:54:33.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main structural elements (the columns and the beams) are big enough to support a horse.  However the slats are inadequate. The first time that you and your partner decide to occupy the center of the mattress simultaneously and apply a dynamic load you are going find yourselves and the mattress occupying the desk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally a double bed would have another beam running lengthwise in the middle which should give the slats a generous amount of spring without breaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition the type of wood, sizes of wood, and the load, one must consider what is known as the end conditions of the slats.  In Sagulator the default end condition (Shelf attachment) is fixed.  In a fixed end condition, the end is restricted from rotation.  In the case of a floating support the ends rotate when the load is applied - the extreme ends actually of the shelf lift from the support.  The condition in this bed is floating.  Even if the slats were to be firmly nailed to the supports, the nails would eventually loosen, same would be true of wood screws.  I'm not so sure of what might happen using glue or even screwed and glued connection for the ends of the slats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the floating end shelf and the 17 mm thickness specified by OP the slats are going to sag excessively (The sag is four times as much in the floating as in the fixed attachment) and quite likely could reach the point of catastrophic failure.   (That's what it is called when the members actually break.)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The additional longitudinal support will solve all of the problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2015-10-14T21:19:08.610" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T21:19:08.610" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2541" CreationDate="2015-10-14T17:27:54.400" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do some guitar building, and guitars happen to be just wider than standard planers. So, I build a planer sled for my router. Depending on your overall width, this could be useful for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;some pictures of my set up&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flat plywood, with 2 square rails. Then I attached my router to a sled of plywood that is reinforced for stability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xVaBU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xVaBU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was using a 1/2&quot; bit, but there are wider bits that may be more suited to the task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TnETF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TnETF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Planing in process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6vOY8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6vOY8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Admittedly, I was removing a lot more material than you likely are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T17:27:54.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2566" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2567" CreationDate="2015-10-12T17:29:05.837" Score="11" ViewCount="1185" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a router and am practicing. When I cut across the grain (actually, it does not matter, see &quot;conclusion&quot;) I noticed that sometimes it tears bits of the wood out. For example, here are two ends of the same piece of 3/4&quot; pine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C1WYV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C1WYV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both ends were cut by me but on the bottom you can see the rough cut. This is a hand held 1.5 hp router at ~20000 rpms using a straight blade with 2 flutes. The blade is 3/8&quot; diameter and I removed about 1/8&quot; of uneven material. I used the router base against a clamped piece of wood as a guide. The feed direction was against the blade rotation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is this happening and can I avoid it? Did the router actually rip those bits out or do those pockets already exist in the wood? Is it a problem with my technique, wood quality, or just a normal unavoidable thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conclusion (Probably)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following CoAstroGeek's answer I inspected my equipment and tried more consistent cuts to repeat the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sawed away a portion of the wood near the tear and verified that it was not an internal defect, it looks like I did the damage:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pzp7I.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pzp7I.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then cut material off in the same way as above using all four straight bits from the same set, increasing diameter each time. I kept my speed more consistent this time and tried to go a bit faster. Cuts were made right to left in images below. Looking closely, even though I did not have tearing as above, the results are very poor (I burned the first one a lot cutting off too much material, so I couldn't move quickly):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hULjc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hULjc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second bit was OK. The third is the one I was using in the original images. The streaks are in the same positions as the tears. This is probably not coincidence. All four blades also leave light horizontal streaks the whole way down, which I initially attributed to sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also while I thought my cuts along the grains had no issues, on closer inspection there is still notching:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uwkJi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uwkJi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I inspected each bit under a magnifying glass, one of the flutes was slightly chipped or dented at the location of every deep scratch. I could not determine the cause of the lighter more frequent scratches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried similar experiments with my other bits, not part of this set and from a different manufacturer, and none had any of these issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The general conclusion is this set of bits is probably just crap. It was fairly cheap. It also taught me that I should be very careful when storing bits because even small defects can ruin a cut. I do not know if the dents are manufacturing defects or damage to the bits done by me in storage (all of the bits used were brand new before this post). Time to go shopping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" OwnerDisplayName="Jason C" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-10-14T22:34:28.037" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T22:34:28.037" Title="Router tears wood, leaves streaks" Tags="|technique|router|router-bit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2566" CreationDate="2015-10-12T19:03:39.550" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think I've ever seen that.  Is the bit sharp?  Have you checked it for burrs or other defects?  The top picture seems to have some artifacts going across the face also, but they didn't result in tear outs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The burn on the right side indicates that maybe you paused or slowed down at that point, which may contribute or may be a separate problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was the feed direction the same for both cuts - ie. from the center of the log (right side of both pics) toward the edge, or vice-versa?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, check your equipment, and try to replicate taking note of your feed direction, speed, other aspects of your technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" OwnerDisplayName="CoAstroGeek" LastActivityDate="2015-10-12T19:03:39.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2568" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-15T16:06:54.533" Score="6" ViewCount="497" Body="&lt;p&gt;I decided to make a bunk bed for my room as it is small and I need a desk. I made a first design in this thread &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2559/make-a-bunk-bed&quot;&gt;Make a bunk bed&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qLuIC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;first design&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zh168.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;first design&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I realised that all the strength would be on the angle brackets and the screws. So I made a new design where the two main wooden beams are laid on the four vertical beams. It reduced the number of 3m wooden beams by two because instead of having 4x2m beams I had 4x1.4m beams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hiMSY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;second design&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nr0Dd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;second design&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made some tests and saw that the main wooden beams could support about 1000kg but the slates could only support about 50kg. With the help of the bed, the weigh should spread on the other slates but I still would like to have your opinions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fikl1.png&quot; alt=&quot;sagulator&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zobuJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;sagulator&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I had a center horizontal beam, the slates would have ~60cm on each side of the central beam and the support capacity would be much higher but I'm not sure wether it's well attached to the rest of the structure or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZtqqN.png&quot; alt=&quot;sagulator&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AJ5YM.png&quot; alt=&quot;final&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did I use the sagulator tool right ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think I should put the center beam ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should it be attached better to the rest of the structure ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Material : &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;10 x &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hornbach.ch/shop/Latte-en-epicea-rabotee-3000x17x36-mm/1009912/article.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Spruce wood 3m x 17 x 36 mm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;7 x &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hornbach.ch/shop/Bois-massif-de-construction-100x80x3000-mm-epicea-sapin/8099466/article.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Spruce wood 3m x 100 x 180 mm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;20 x &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hornbach.ch/shop/Corniere-dangle-a-charge-lourde-avec-une-nervure-150x150x65-mm-galvanisee-sendzimir-1-unite/8062988/article.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Galvanised steel right-angle brackets: 100 mm long arms, 65mm wide x 2.5mm thick&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1247" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-11-13T03:04:07.927" Title="Make a bunk bed v2" Tags="|technique|joinery|furniture|wood|strength|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2569" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-15T16:32:19.050" Score="8" ViewCount="7718" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I jointed, planed, and biscuit cut some boards and am planning on gluing today. I inserted the biscuits and my boards and they seem to be uneven, I made sure the boards were flat on the table when biscuit cutting and was planning on making a final pass through the planer, but now seeing as both sides might be uneven after gluing, can I pass the board through the planer on both sides? I made sure there was enough thickness to cut down in case something like this happened, so I'm not concerned about thickness. Just want to know if it will be equally thickened if I were to pass them through the planer on both sides after they've been glued and dried of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;also, i cant jointer first because after gluing my boards, the width became too big for the machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1239" OwnerDisplayName="Melissa K" LastEditorUserId="1239" LastEditDate="2015-10-15T21:43:14.870" LastActivityDate="2015-10-23T18:33:19.093" Title="Passing wood through a planer on both sides?" Tags="|jointer|thickness-planer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2570" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2572" CreationDate="2015-10-15T18:02:11.653" Score="8" ViewCount="3440" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working to repair the pictured round wooden table.  It has a wood screw insert that's completely stripped out.  In addition, the center post has cracked:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G83zh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G83zh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;table repair&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inserting the metal stud into the hole then clamping with the hose clamp results in a tight connection but not tight enough.  The table top screws into the stud, and it's easy to put a lot of force on the connection and spin the stud in the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm considering augmenting the hose clamp with two part epoxy, sawdust saturated with wood glue, or wood putty.  What would you suggest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/483/what-is-a-good-method-for-filling-holes-in-wood-to-try-and-re-drill-them&quot;&gt;this related Question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1253" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-10-23T15:09:59.063" Title="What are strong methods to secure a stripped wood screw in hardwood?" Tags="|furniture|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2569" CreationDate="2015-10-15T18:03:30.343" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;but now seeing as both sides might be uneven after gluing, can I pass the board through the jointer on both sides?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of jointing both sides, instead pass one side through the jointer to make it flat.  This assumes that your piece is narrow enough to fit through your jointer (if not, please see this &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2116/what-is-a-planer-sled-and-how-do-you-use-it?rq=1&quot;&gt;related Question on using a planer sled&lt;/a&gt;).  For clarity, since you seem to be mixing up machine names, this is an example of a power jointer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/avIQe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/avIQe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;jointer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000BHNAJA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With one flat face, you can now put the flat face down on your planer bed and pass it through to flatten the opposite face.  Since you already have one flat face to index off of, your planer will cut the opposing face parallel to the flat face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Just want to know if it will be equally thickened if I were to pass them through the jointer on both sides after they've been glued and dried of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Running a board through a jointer on opposing faces does not guarantee that the faces will be parallel to each other.  This is because the cutting action of the jointer is controlled by how you feed the piece through, and it's next to impossible to do this accurately by hand.  This is why planers exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please have a look at some how-to videos on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=1&amp;amp;ved=0CB4QtwIwAGoVChMIr_fi74bFyAIVUfKACh3_1AxH&amp;amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D5_VF09dW0EI&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNECul6NG8rTj9IwDsuoiK-c0SYEmg&amp;amp;sig2=bkT8RcZSLEc6De3CpzGIkw&amp;amp;cad=rja&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;jointing&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=1&amp;amp;cad=rja&amp;amp;uact=8&amp;amp;ved=0CB0QtwIwAGoVChMIhPrDjofFyAIVEveACh3fzAk5&amp;amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DG3YbasoBKpY&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNF9MO7xuz52dlmhUnUFbjD7mayi8A&amp;amp;sig2=ID0aKtzofdBJXf2UF2VmLQ&amp;amp;bvm=bv.105039540,d.eXY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;planing&lt;/a&gt; for a more visual explanation.  This process can also be &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ojeul33vXL4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;done by hand&lt;/a&gt; if you have the tools and the patience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-10-15T18:21:12.463" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T18:21:12.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2570" CreationDate="2015-10-15T18:13:56.157" Score="11" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm working to repair the pictured round wooden table. It has a wood screw that's completely stripped out, in addition the center post has cracked:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion is to use increasingly-larger drill bits to widen the hole in the leg.  For example, assuming you're starting with a 1/4&quot; hole, work up to 5/16&quot;, 3/8&quot;, 7/16&quot; and 1/2&quot; bits, and you will end up with a 1/2&quot; diameter hole.  Keep your hose clamp on while doing this to keep the crack from widening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, take a piece of 1/2&quot; dowel of a good hardwook (oak or maple would work well).  Or, use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodenpost.com/products/tapered_plug_cutter.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;plug cutter&lt;/a&gt; to make a 1/2&quot; dia. plug of a suitable depth to fill your hole.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/duMqd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/duMqd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;plug cutter&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glue the dowel/plug into the hole, redrill the hole for your threaded insert, and reinstall the insert.  The plugs have the advantage that when you reinstall your insert, the threads of the insert are biting across the grain of the plug vs. splitting the long grain of the dowel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm considering augmenting the hose clamp with two part epoxy, sawdust saturated with wood glue, or wood putty. What would you suggest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest this for closing up the crack:  Drill a couple holes that cross the crack and epoxy in some dowel pegs.  The pegs will act to bridge the gap and keep the crack from opening wider.  You can also fill the crack with epoxy to help keep it together, but the dowel reinforcement will greatly strengthen the crack.  See the image below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oYqj8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oYqj8.png&quot; alt=&quot;dowels&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The table top screws into the stud, and it's easy to put a lot of force on the connection and spin the stud in the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would consider trying to find a screw insert with a much longer part that threads into the post.  You're applying a lot of force to a very small region with that short stud.  Lengthening the insert portion that feeds into the post will greatly distribute the force to the rest of the post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-10-23T15:09:59.063" LastActivityDate="2015-10-23T15:09:59.063" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2569" CreationDate="2015-10-15T20:31:57.357" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/q/2116/492&quot;&gt;planer sled&lt;/a&gt; can be use with a planer to effectively joint (make flat) one side of work that's too wide for your jointer. Once you've flattened one side, you can flip the work and run it through the planer with the flat side down (no sled required) to flatten the other side and ensure that it's parallel to the first side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key to the sled is that it provides a flat reference surface. You insert shims between the work and the sled to prevent the planer's feed rollers from pressing the work flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T20:31:57.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2574" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2579" CreationDate="2015-10-15T21:53:21.087" Score="5" ViewCount="1795" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in NYC. I have a small roof deck but mostly must work inside and I have very little space to keep tools. I need to build cases for my electronics projects. Acrylic/plexiglass seems like a nice option but I'm at a loss when it comes to cutting square holes in it. Some say a Dremel will work others say it will melt the acrylic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Large manual drill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Small manual jeweler's drill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;serious glue gun&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;soldering station&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;heat gun &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;various needle nose pliers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a million scissors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;every screwdriver&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;nippers/tin snips/snippers/flush cutters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tiny shop vac&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of getting one of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;manual scroll saw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;scroll saw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;jig saw &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dremel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I can't decide what would help me build cases for my small electronics projects most out of thin (think under 1/4&quot; wood) and plastic. Noise can be and issue. That's why I love my manual drills.  They also are much more precise and don't melt plastic. I'm leaning towards the manual scroll saw ... but I don't have any way to try before I buy...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe I need more than one saw? Any advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1254" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-10-16T15:30:45.353" LastActivityDate="2015-10-16T19:54:34.303" Title="What tool can cut thin wood or acrylic/plexiglass without melting it that is suitable for NYC apartment?" Tags="|hand-tools|tools|power-tools|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2575" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2576" CreationDate="2015-10-15T22:45:43.237" Score="7" ViewCount="778" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry if this question already has an answer somewhere, I couldn't find it online or within this community.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As my first foray into woodworking, I'm making relatively simple wooden coasters from red gum. The red gum has had borer in it previously, which actually lends itself quite nicely to adding interesting patterns in the coasters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the obvious problem is that whether I want to keep these coasters, or sell them for a few bucks, I need to make sure any borer which may still be inside is dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like a preferably quick way to make sure the borer inside is dead, and was wondering if there was such a method out there? The coasters are about 1cm thick, and approx 7.5cm wide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of just submerging them in water for eight hours, but I know some insects and larvae can survive for days, weeks, even months if they're hibernating, with little to no air, and couldn't find information on if borer fall within this category.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is no &quot;quick&quot; method, methods which take some time will also then be acceptable as an answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case it's pertinent, I live in Australia. So far, the coasters have just been cut to size, but have not yet been sanded or oiled (saving those steps for after I deal with any borer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;EDIT:&lt;/em&gt; Accepted the answer from Chris as it (and the method in the comments for that answer) worked just fine for me. Essentially, stuck the coasters in our electric oven for a few hours, which kept the temperature around 65-70 degrees celcius over that time (measured by oven thermometer). Seems to have worked, with no discoloration of the wood, and the small cracks in the wood did not get any bigger. Note that the wood was already mostly dry - something else &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; have happened for green wood, but regardless, didn't in my case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1255" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-10-16T12:22:33.753" LastActivityDate="2021-01-21T08:36:41.233" Title="Killing Borer in Wooden Coasters" Tags="|wood-repair|insects|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2575" CreationDate="2015-10-15T23:04:22.803" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Best method for killing boring beetles is to use heat. Warming the wood to a set temperature for a designated length of time will eradicate the beetles and their larvae.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beetle type determines the length of time and duration of applied heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Powderpost beetles 54.4 degrees Celsius/130 degrees Fahrenheit for 2-4 hours in a kiln&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deathwatch beetles 56 degrees Celsius/133 degrees Fahrenheit for 30 minutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kiln drying the wood works really well, but if you do not have access to a kiln then you could use a microwave.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I have been successful with using the microwave to dry out wood rounds and buttons. 30 seconds at a time works best for me, then I can check the wood temperature and monitor for cracking/checking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1256" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2015-10-18T14:37:39.383" LastActivityDate="2015-10-18T14:37:39.383" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2574" CreationDate="2015-10-16T01:22:33.620" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For apartment woodworking, I'd stick mostly with hand tools. Handsaws are much quieter than their powered cousins, especially if there's carpet or other padding under the workbench to reduce sound transmission to the floor. Hammering is noisy, but screws are quiet; a bit less so if using an electric drill and driver but still should be OK unless you're using an impact driver. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Useful tip: Many lumberyards and home-improvement centers will cut boards and plywood to size for low or no cost. Even if you don't trust their measurements and have them cut a bit oversize, this can make handling the wood a lot easier. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm still using bookcases I threw together in my 2nd apartment. 2x12's, ply, adjustable shelf support and screws; not even glue. They could be much prettier, but they've been rock-solid... good enough for what I needed at the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For small electronic projects, most of the wood cases you make will have drilled holes for lights and controls; maybe an occasional slot or rectangle for sliders and displays, right? Not convinced you need a powered saw at all, as long as you have some sort of fret saw that you can feed through a starting hole to make cutouts in the middle of a panel. (Scroll saw is essentially a powered fret saw). Scroll/fret saws are also great for making fancy decorative speaker grilles, if you have the patience for detail work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dremel tools are very useful for a very few specific tasks. For most folks, most of the time, they just gather dust. If you're making your own pcb's -- and not using smc's yet --  a high-speed rotary tool might be worth considering; ditto if you need a micro-router (woodworking, not networking), but I'd hold off buying one until you have a specific task for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, I'd suggest waiting and buying tools only when you have a project which needs that tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thought: If you make something as a gift for the adjacent apartments -- including directly below you -- and ask them about what hours you should make sure to keep quiet, they may be more inclined to cut you a little slack it there's an occasional noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2015-10-16T01:41:15.950" LastActivityDate="2015-10-16T01:41:15.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2575" CreationDate="2015-10-16T15:06:16.787" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Borer is &lt;em&gt;a little&lt;/em&gt; ambiguous since that describes several species of beetle. There is a basic &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lifestyle.com.au/property/identifying-and-dealing-with-timber-borers.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;introductory article from LifeStyle&lt;/a&gt; that breaks down some of those species and how you can identify which one might be in your coasters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That would be very useful to know which species you are dealing with as it is possible you don't need to worry. You might just be looking at evidence of a previous infestation. If you are unable to figure it out on your own you could always post a picture with a ruler. Or even better I have seen species identification questions on &lt;a href=&quot;https://biology.stackexchange.com/&quot;&gt;https://biology.stackexchange.com/&lt;/a&gt; so they could help as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also of note: I did &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/829/128&quot;&gt;an answer&lt;/a&gt; to &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/821/protecting-wood-from-powder-post-beetles&quot;&gt;Protecting wood from powder post beetles&lt;/a&gt; which is one of the borers you might be dealing with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically you are back to kiln as the best choice but since you have small objects I would choose a toaster oven over microwave since you would have better control of the temperature over time. Would function the same as the oven but would be kinder to your gas/electrical bills. Not sure of the availability in your local though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2015-10-16T15:06:16.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2574" CreationDate="2015-10-16T15:30:25.970" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are just trying to cut out small squares I would favour hand tools as well. I would think primarily out of respect for you neighbors but also to keep clean up a little more manageable. Also hand tools can be cheaper in some cases. That of course depends if you are trying to get a production going in which case it might be considered inefficient. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I would suggest you get a small saw like a keyhole / compass saw if you do not already have one. The blades are designed for cutting small holes which sounds like what you are doing. If the holes are not on the edge of your work then you would just need to drill a hole, on the inside of the square, large enough to get the saw in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ory9C.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ory9C.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Keyhole&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cut on the inside of your lines and then you could sand smooth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can essentially do the same thing with a jig saw and you can get them fairly cheap. As long as you are cutting sheet goods it will serve you well. Still need to make a starting hole if you are cutting in the middle of the board obviously. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coping saw came to mind as well but they are better at cutting curves and might not fit depending where these squares are in relation to the edge of the stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for other places to work, besides your apartment, there are location for that like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.techshop.ws/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TechShop&lt;/a&gt;. Unfortunately it &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.techshop.ws/locations.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;does not look like there is one in your area&lt;/a&gt; even though they &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.techshop.ws/press_releases.html?&amp;amp;action=detail&amp;amp;press_release_id=17&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mentioned back in 2010 they would have one&lt;/a&gt; in New York &quot;soon&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure that there are other solutions available as well. Have a look at this &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.makersalley.com/post/51170134998/where-to-woodwork-in-new-york-hint-its&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;article from MakersAlley&lt;/a&gt; that links you to some that might be in your area. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-10-16T19:54:34.303" LastActivityDate="2015-10-16T19:54:34.303" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2580" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2581" CreationDate="2015-10-18T00:37:55.197" Score="17" ViewCount="19928" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rkbcE.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rkbcE.png&quot; alt=&quot;Calipers!&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a digital caliper to make more precise measurements than a basic variety vernier and it works great. I wanted them to measure the width of my table saw for making my sled runners. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After watching a video on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UbG-n--LFgQ&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;making an accurate table saw sled&lt;/a&gt; I started to notice more instructional videos using dial calipers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course this could just be a case of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.psmag.com/books-and-culture/theres-a-name-for-that-the-baader-meinhof-phenomenon-59670&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;frequency illusion&lt;/a&gt; but it begs the questions: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you were given a choice between dial, digital and vernier calipers which one should you pick? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As far as woodworking is concerned what would make one preferential over the other or is this just a matter of personal preference?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-04-20T21:03:56.897" LastActivityDate="2017-01-10T10:28:59.683" Title="Caliper Showdown: Dial vs. Digital vs. Vernier" Tags="|tools|tool-selection|measurement|tolerance|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2580" CreationDate="2015-10-18T00:37:55.197" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;After doing a fair bit of research the &lt;em&gt;general&lt;/em&gt; consensus is use whatever you have available and you feel comfortable with. That being said, there are several points worth making about all three tools and it's important to note the differences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Dial&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Works mechanically and usually in 1/1000th of an inch increments.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assuming the rack and pinion are free of debris the accuracy can almost always be trusted.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some would claim getting a reading takes getting used to as you are reading a dial as supposed to just values.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since it is mechanical many trust the readout more in comparison to digital. This could easily be subjective and comes down to the quality of the tool.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Digital&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Digital readout is instantaneous and requires no affiliation with the tool for a quick readout. Many support switching between metric and imperial.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since it is an electrical component extra care needs to be taken. Moisture and battery life need to be accounted for.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At times need to be re-zeroed before use although this is a simple process and a feature if you want to do relative measurements.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The value that is presented can &lt;em&gt;sometimes&lt;/em&gt; be inaccurate whether it be due to pressure used or the general quality of the tool (read below on how to deal with that).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Vernier&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Getting values requires a few seconds of thought more than just reading of a display or dial however it is just basic math.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most don't go to the decimal places that dials and digitals are capable of.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make no mistake they can still take simple measurements that are more than satisfactory for woodworkers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Minimal moving parts. Only inaccuracy in results is that of the user making a calculation mistake.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With any tools their precision can be a direct result of the tool's quality. Not to say that cheaper tools cannot do the job just as well as their more expensive siblings but manufacturers tolerance for error should be smaller with the higher end tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People will have their own personal preference that might have a certain bias but either caliper can perform the job for wood workers at least*.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Point I am trying to make is that it should not matter which tool you use beyond what you are comfortable with and have available. In either case having a set of gauge blocks on hand will remove any trepidation of the tools potential inaccuracy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;* That is, most woodworkers would not need the same level of accuracy that a machinist might.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T20:59:38.960" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2582" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2589" CreationDate="2015-10-18T19:11:16.347" Score="5" ViewCount="534" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a process for wood similar to annealing for metals to relieve internal stress?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if I have a thin piece of oak used for trim that is bowed sideways (bowed parallel to trimmed face), but I force it straight when gluing and clamping, is there something I can do to make it happy in its new position so it doesn't exert any force on the piece it was glued to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize this may be a silly question. I also know there are better solutions, e.g. planing the trim or not using a bowed piece, lining up grain correctly, etc. I am wondering if this specific process exists, though and what it is called if it does (searching for &quot;annealing wood&quot; doesn't yield sensical results). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastActivityDate="2015-10-19T19:33:19.160" Title="&quot;Annealing&quot; wood?" Tags="|terminology|warp|bowing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2583" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2585" CreationDate="2015-10-19T15:21:01.220" Score="12" ViewCount="60118" Body="&lt;p&gt;Specifically I am wondering about polyurethane (Rustoleum Ultimate) over boiled linseed oil, but in general polyurethane or other top coats with similar chemistry over any drying oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question is: Can I apply polyurethane over an oil before the oil completely cures or do I have to wait?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked up linseed oil on Wikipedia and it led me to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drying_oil&quot;&gt;drying oils&lt;/a&gt;. These oils polymerize by reacting with ambient O2. I also attempted to research the curing process of polyurethane but discovered there are many different types with many different uses, so it was difficult to find info. I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; they cure by reacting with ambient moisture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My knowledge of chemistry is too limited to be able to understand if polyurethane would allow O2 to pass through to react with the undercoating of oil as it cures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other random bit of info that I found is that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rustoleum.com/MSDS/ENGLISH/260163.pdf&quot;&gt;Rustoleum Ultimate polyurethane primarily consists of&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://msdssearch.dow.com/PublishedLiteratureDOWCOM/dh_00fc/0901b803800fc0f9.pdf?filepath=productsafety/pdfs/noreg/233-00468.pdf&amp;amp;fromPage=GetDoc&quot;&gt;Dipropylene Glycol Monomethyl Ether&lt;/a&gt; (DPM)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/N-Methyl-2-pyrrolidone&quot;&gt;Methyl-n 2-Pyrrolidone&lt;/a&gt; (NMP)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither of which I understand. I reached the conclusion that they are moisture cured from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.garlandco.com/educational/ytr/catching-polyurethane-train.html&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; although it concerned types of polyurethane used on metal. Not sure if it's the same as wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, can I apply polyurethane before the BLO cures? Will it continue curing underneath? Or do I have to wait? If I do have to wait, what will happen if I don't? Is it different for an oil-based polyurethane (it looks like the Rustoleum one is water-based)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2015-10-19T15:26:38.803" LastActivityDate="2020-02-21T00:22:07.867" Title="Can I apply polyurethane over oil before oil cures?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2583" CreationDate="2015-10-19T15:43:36.760" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can I apply polyurethane over an oil before the oil completely cures or do I have to wait?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can, but you won't like the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not allowing the oil beneath to cure fully will mean that part of the oil mixes with the solvent used to carry the polyurethane (assuming oil-based poly), leading to a splotchy finish.  If you're using a water-based poly, it will bead up like water on an oil slick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2068/can-i-apply-water-based-polyurethane-over-an-oil-based-stain?rq=1&quot;&gt;related Question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Specifically I am wondering about polyurethane (Rustoleum Ultimate) over boiled linseed oil&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you like the subtle tan/yellow coloration BLO provides, an oil-based polyurethane should provide a similar tinting.  Or, you could use a tinted stain/dye for the same coloration and then finish with poly.  Since BLO has a widely-varying curing time (especially in colder weather), it's far more consistent to use a stain/dye for coloration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2015-10-19T15:43:36.760" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2583" CreationDate="2015-10-19T15:45:33.597" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can I apply polyurethane over oil before oil cures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, broadly speaking you can do this and there is no real penalty. You do tend to see an increase in drying time, but contrary to many statement to the contrary online the oil &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; cure perfectly well under a coat of poly, because the varnish is not at all a perfect oxygen barrier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, polyurethane is by no means a single product and &lt;em&gt;the above does not apply to Rust-Oleum's Ultimate&lt;/em&gt; as it's a waterbased poly! As a rule no waterbased product should ever be applied to an oily surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I do have to wait, what will happen if I don't? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll have significant application difficulties, as you'd expect applying a water-borne product to an oily surface. The most significant effect can be an uncontrollable beading, which prevents any sort of even coverage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wait for the oil to cure however you can successfully apply the Ultimate onto wood treated with BLO. This curing time is at minimum a couple of weeks, but many users prefer to wait a month or so to err on the side of caution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-10-19T15:45:33.597" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2580" CreationDate="2015-10-19T15:49:41.793" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you were given a choice between dial, digital and vernier calipers which one should you pick? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I went looking for a caliper I wanted a dial type, based on the following comment in Andy Rae's book &lt;strong&gt;Choosing &amp;amp; Using Hand Tools&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;em&gt;&quot;A plastic dial caliper is plenty accurate for a woodworker's needs, and costs peanuts compared to more expensive metal versions.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I couldn't find one for sale locally, in plastic or metal, and eventually got a digital model in stainless steel. I did eventually spot a dial caliper but it was more expensive, and it turns out I wouldn't have been as happy with it — Rae is clearly right that they're more than accurate enough for woodworking, however, after using the digital type I wouldn't recommend one on a couple of grounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As far as woodworking in concerned what would make one preferential over the other or is this just a matter of personal preference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vernier&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Potentially slow to read (requires interpretation/calculation by the user, which can introduce error) but in practice for the woodworker this is arguably irrelevant as the accuracy is beyond what's usually achievable in wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can be very expensive, but oddly the plastic versions appear to be the cheapest calipers available (less than the price of a cup of fancy coffee).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can have both metric and Imperial scales on the one tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very simple mechanically, so little to go wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No batteries required so will work anywhere, any time, without fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dial&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Accurate enough for woodworking needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where available, can be cheaper than digital.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Display is often harder to read than on a digital model, but note: the opposite in bright sunlight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dial mechanism can be knocked out of alignment or break entirely, rendering the dial readout useless (no user-serviceable parts inside).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost all are either Imperial or metric, not both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No batteries required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Digital&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally easier to read. Especially important as your eyesight diminishes getting older! But, possibly important to some users, the typical LCD display is difficult or impossible to read in direct sunlight or bright daylight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instant read, so faster to use (particularly when compared to vernier calipers). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More accurate than dial or vernier, sort of. Disregard what you hear to the contrary, they are more accurate &lt;em&gt;in practice&lt;/em&gt; than dial calipers; this isn't to do with the build accuracy or better machining of the gearing, it's simply a by-product of the digital display of the measurement (to two or three, sometimes even four decimal places).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re-zero function at any opening size allows easier comparison measurements (both positive and negative) of e.g. a mortise and its corresponding tenon, two similar drill bits, a jig's pin with the matching router bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can be expensive, but careful shopping will pay dividends here — buy directly from China and you can get what appears to be exactly the same tool as a name-brand version, just without the logo and the resulting mark-up!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Particularly important feature I feel: metric and Imperial on the one tool; and this can be changed on the fly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Requires batteries for the digital readout. But, they still retain the basic marked scales that a vernier caliper has, and the housing for the digital display is deliberately sized do that you can use its edge to read the measure:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nHsco.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nHsco.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Digital caliper highlight&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for 'rough' measurements they will still give service if the battery has died. I say 'rough' here as of course it's no rougher than the measurements done with a conventional rule, which we rely on as accurate all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2015-10-19T18:33:42.180" LastActivityDate="2015-10-19T18:33:42.180" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2587" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2588" CreationDate="2015-10-19T18:20:46.583" Score="4" ViewCount="3210" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to build a children's desk for my wife's two nieces. I have some very nice oak but I don't feel like using something like that would be smart because it will be beaten up, painted over, and let's face it, not appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be a suitable material, in terms of durability and cost, for a children's desk? The desk would most likely be painted over with a &quot;children's&quot; color. I was thinking about using MDF but I don't know how it will hold up or how it compares in cost to, say, maple or oak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, what tips/advice do you have for using the chosen material that would be different from using normal hardwood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I live in the Midwest so I will be limited to materials within the region.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1172" LastEditorUserId="1172" LastEditDate="2015-10-19T19:34:07.390" LastActivityDate="2019-06-30T04:53:46.423" Title="What material is suitable for a children's desk/furniture?" Tags="|furniture|design|materials|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2587" CreationDate="2015-10-19T18:59:54.083" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What would be a suitable material, in terms of durability and cost, for a children's desk?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a piece of furniture that's destined for the lifetime of abuses that children can inflict upon it, I view it from two different schools of thought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first school says that since you expect the piece to be beaten up, painted, and generally neglected, you will want to make it out of a material that maximizes durability while minimizing cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my money, this wood is usually southern pine or douglas fir.  I built my workbench out of southern pine for this reason.  Spruce is also a very strong material for it's cost and weight, though it dents very easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second school says that because of the abuse you expect, you should go ahead and spend your money on a hardwood that will take the abuse in stride.  Something that will not chip easily, something that holds a nice edge without denting, and something that doesn't show scratches just by looking at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, the bed frames my father built for my brother and I as kids were made of red oak, and they experienced their fair share of abuse from two energetic boys.  Both are now relegated to our hunting cabin and have been transformed into bunk beds that my brother and I use to this day, over a quarter of a century later.  They remain sturdy because they were built well out of a stout material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, a good hard maple or red oak would be perfect.  Both are fairly inexpensive (in my area, at least - your mileage may vary), and using them for something that the Queen won't use is perfectly acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For painting, poplar is a good choice since it takes paint well.  If I recall correctly, alkyd-based paint is best for poplar.  It's a fairly soft wood, so expect some denting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a tendency to want to cheapen the things we give to children because of the though that the kids won't appreciate them and that they'll abuse them.  I find that this depends on how the kid(s) is (are) raised.  Giving them something nice and instilling in them the idea that &lt;strong&gt;they&lt;/strong&gt; are responsible for keeping it nice, I think, is one of the best things you can do as an adult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Too often these days we/make buy crappy furniture out of cheap materials under the expectation that it will get used until it falls apart.  I say, &quot;no!&quot;  The truly environmentally-friendly way to make furniture is to make so well that it will outlast you and your children.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-10-19T19:36:27.220" LastActivityDate="2015-10-19T19:36:27.220" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2582" CreationDate="2015-10-19T19:33:19.160" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best 'chance' is using moisture.  Basically getting the wood 'wet' and straightening it, then letting it dry straight.  Some woods and small bends might work with wetting/moistening the board.  However, steaming the board is likely to be the most successful on the widest ranges of species and quality.  It also is unlikely to be worth the extra effort vs. just buying another board that will meet your needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On top of all the work, of steaming the board, you still have to dry it back to usable moisture content before gluing it to the other boards or bad things can happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-10-19T19:33:19.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2587" CreationDate="2015-10-19T19:39:46.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To me it depends more on how long do you want these to last?  If this is just a child's play toy that you expect will be tossed out in a couple years, then Cheaper is better, say some pine or even high quality plywood.  However, if you think this might make it to a family 'heirloom' go for the good stuff.  Oak can take a pretty good beating and still look pretty.  Likely it will be painted on and stripped and finished and painted again etc.  Oak (or maple) will take it all in stride.  I still run across wooden desks made in the 50's for class rooms that are doing well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big one is if you can find a decent location for hardwoods other than Home depot, you can get Oak pretty cheap.  Look for small mills in the area, in MN they aren't more than a couple hours away from almost any point.  It can save you a lot of money on your projects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-10-19T19:39:46.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2591" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2594" CreationDate="2015-10-19T20:59:03.550" Score="6" ViewCount="13746" Body="&lt;p&gt;I intend to make a splayed leg dining room table similar to the ones in these images:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bswze.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bswze.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Malone Mid-century Modern Casual Dining Table&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eMvBJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eMvBJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picked Vintage mcm blonde splayed leg dining table 6&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hmz66.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hmz66.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;KnollStudio Splay-Leg Table&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because dining room tables typically support a good deal of weight, I'm concerned about the amount of stress placed on the joint between the leg and the table apron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is the strongest join for splayed legs?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I intend to make the table from walnut stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up building double-stacked corner brackets, attached to the one-inch thick apron with screws, and double bolted into the legs.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9QlBQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9QlBQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;double-stacked corner brackets, attached to the one-inch thick apron with screws&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the resulting table (it still has not yet collapsed of its own weight):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m9qQN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m9qQN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;walnut splayed-leg dining table&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="192" LastEditorUserId="192" LastEditDate="2017-12-12T23:28:26.723" LastActivityDate="2017-12-12T23:28:26.723" Title="What is the strongest join for splayed legs?" Tags="|joinery|table-making|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2591" CreationDate="2015-10-19T21:51:05.263" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;How complicated do you want to make the construction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that under the third table we see that it has aprons. Those are undoubtedly mortise-and-tenioned into the legs, which is quite a strong joint (lots of long-grain glue surface). The table's top then rests on this frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might make that stronger by drawbore-pinning the tenions, but you'd need to be moderately clever not to mar the leg's appearance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you could use sliding dovetails rather than simple tenions; you'd lose the top glue surface (unless you combine this with a &quot;follower&quot; plug for the dovetail slot) but you'd gain the dovetail's mechanical strength reinforcing the glue joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note too that both tables' legs &lt;em&gt;taper&lt;/em&gt; outward as well as tilting outward, increasing the apparent angle without introducing as much torque as it may seem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="192" LastEditDate="2015-11-06T03:42:51.937" LastActivityDate="2015-11-06T03:42:51.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2587" CreationDate="2015-10-19T22:01:20.987" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to toss out a contrarian point of view: melamine or other plastic-laminate-over-cheap-core-material isn't elegant, but it's waterproof, stain-resistant, and fairly cheap. There are good reasons many office desktops use this sort of material. It would be far from heirloom quality, and unless you spend more or apply laminate yourself you have somewhat toddler-unfriendly edges, but there's something to be said for &quot;here; you won't destroy thus one before you're old enough to properly care for an heirloom.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-10-19T22:01:20.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2591" CreationDate="2015-10-20T10:44:08.463" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is the strongest join for splayed legs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As is almost always the case with this type of question there is no one clear winner. There are numerous joints — including some unconventional/less seen choices — that would be &lt;em&gt;strong enough&lt;/em&gt;, which is all that's needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the particular joint chosen would be dictated by the form of the apron (if any) and that is an open question in the overall design of the piece....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the two images posted &lt;em&gt;neither&lt;/em&gt; table appears to use an apron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the second if you look closely it seems that there is an X-shaped brace centred on the tabletop, with the legs attached to the end of each arm of the X (maybe with a bridle joint) and then possibly pegged in place, although those could be wood plugs hiding a metal faster of some kind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the first it looks like there might be an X-shaped brace also, although flat to the table. Or possibly just a flat plate or flange attached to the tops of the legs. In either case, they could be screwed onto the leg tops from above, then the edges of the X or flange could be screwed to the table from underneath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of these two the system in the second image is the stronger option by far, so if the choice were between these two then go with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a more conventional apron is preferred then the apron/leg joint should probably remain what it is most commonly: a mortise and tenon. Somewhat like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GaFiK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GaFiK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Splayed mortise and tenon&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: if the splay on the legs is fairly pronounced I think an open-topped mortise should be avoided here (possibly also a haunched tenon if you want to be extra-cautious). A regular enclosed tenon would provide maximum strength for the forces applied to the joint by the splay of the legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another alternative worth considering is the type of joint often used on commercial splay-legged coffee tables and sideboards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KvJ4T.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KvJ4T.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Angled cleat for splayed leg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These rely on a &quot;pre-installed industrial strength fastening system&quot; (just a large threaded insert) so could be strong enough for the legs on a dining table, as they are for quite sizeable sideboards; albeit these have much shorter legs they are substantially heavier than a tabletop, even without things stored inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-10-20T10:44:08.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2595" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3607" CreationDate="2015-10-20T15:47:45.937" Score="7" ViewCount="303" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently acquired a dust collector, and it came with two ways of mounting the chip collection bag, but didn't explain why I would want to use one over the other in the assembly instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two mounting options I have are a cloth covered flexible ring or a big metal bag clamp that resembles a giant hose clamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flexible ring is supposed to have the top 6&quot; of bag folded over it, and sits inside an internal groove in the dust collector and is held in by spring force and friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bag clamp goes around the outside of the dust collector, with the bag in between the outer diameter and the bag clamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are there benefits and downsides to each method?&lt;/strong&gt; I'm wondering if it's a convenience (clamp) vs performance (flexible ring) tradeoff. Does one provide a better seal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make/Model is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.deltamachinery.com/products/dust-management/item/50-767&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Delta 50-767&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.deltamachinery.com/downloads/manuals/dust_management/50-767/50-767%20Manual%20Rev%203.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Manual (PDF)&lt;/a&gt; Page 13, Figures 14 and 15.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastEditorUserId="38" LastEditDate="2016-03-08T20:53:47.187" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T15:37:09.470" Title="Cloth covered flexible ring or a bag clamp in a dust collector?" Tags="|sawdust|dust-collection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2596" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2597" CreationDate="2015-10-20T19:52:11.357" Score="9" ViewCount="3523" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I paint the edges of an oak plywood sheet, will it hide the layers well enough to not show through the paint? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1172" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-10-20T20:47:18.997" LastActivityDate="2015-10-20T20:53:08.973" Title="Will painting the edges of plywood hide the layers?" Tags="|finishing|plywood|paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2596" CreationDate="2015-10-20T20:53:08.973" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I paint the edges of an oak plywood sheet, will it hide the layers well enough to not show through the paint? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're asking whether you will only see a flat, smooth base below the paint (like you would expect when painting drywall), the answer is &lt;strong&gt;no&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No matter how well you sand the plywood edge, you will still get some of the layering/imperfections that show through the paint as shadow lines or will be visible as slightly differently-colored area when viewed in a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raking_light&quot;&gt;raking light&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one way that I know of to mitigate this effect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill the edges of the plywood with a wood filler to take care of any little dings, scratches, gaps, or craters that might not be readily visible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sand the filler back to flat after it's dried/cured&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paint the edge with a flat primer to make an even base coat (like what you might do for a house's wall)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sand the primer back to flat, reapply primer (repeat as often as necessary to achieve a uniform, flat base)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paint the edge with the color of your choice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will likely remove enough of the plywood edge that it will stand up to casual scrutiny.  If you're very detailed in your woodfilling and sanding, they results will be even better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2015-10-20T20:53:08.973" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2598" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2603" CreationDate="2015-10-21T16:08:59.137" Score="1" ViewCount="250" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that there are several opensource printers, i.e. &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RepRap&lt;/a&gt;. Are there any similar projects for robotic woodworking saw or other instruments?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1277" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-01-12T14:13:12.943" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T14:13:12.943" Title="Open Source Robotic Saw" Tags="|tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2015-10-21T19:11:04.347" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2599" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2602" CreationDate="2015-10-21T17:39:25.863" Score="14" ViewCount="16663" Body="&lt;p&gt;I needed to attach two 2x4 as T-joint and was looking to buy self-drilling wood screws to do that. In HomeDepot, I found a box of screws labeled as 'self-cutting' and bought it. But, when I opened the box and looked at the tip of the screws, I found that they had gaps on the threads (like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.turnbolt.co.za/assets/images/THREAD-CUTTING.JPG&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mT6vL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mT6vL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;screw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;rather than having a drill bit. The threads are tapered on the tip but remained all the way upto the tip. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can they self-drill? Or, do I need pre-drilling? In HomeDepot, I found that there were many self-drilling screws for metal sheet (for example, metal-to-metal or wood-to-metal) but coundn't find any for wood-to-wood attachment. Can I use those metal sheet self-drilling screws for wood-to-wood connection?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1278" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-10-21T17:54:39.567" LastActivityDate="2022-04-18T21:11:28.340" Title="Is this a self-drilling wood screw?" Tags="|screws|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2599" CreationDate="2015-10-21T17:59:57.747" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can they self-drill?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, the screw pictured above is indeed self-drilling.  The cutout at the tip is what performs the drilling action.  The relief in the screw shaft makes an edge which acts like a rotary cutter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Or, do I need pre-drilling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In pine, with enough edge distance for the screw, most likely not.  However, pre-drilling a screw is never a bad idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can I use those metal sheet self-drilling screws for wood-to-wood connection?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can, but metal screws are generally of a finer thread type than wood screws.  Since the grain of steel is much, much tighter and the metal is denser than wood, the threads are more closely spaced to give a better grip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In wood, too-closely spaced threads to not given enough room between the threads to properly bite into the wood grain, leading to a weak screw-to-wood interface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-10-21T19:27:09.097" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T19:27:09.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2599" CreationDate="2015-10-21T18:04:55.293" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can they self-drill? Or, do I need pre-drilling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They screws are designed to drill a hole as they go so there is no need to pre-drill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those gaps that you describe are actually a slot cut through the first few threads (where the screw is tapered) that creates a &quot;one-time&quot; drill bit that creates threaded hole.  They work well in softwood, but can be problematic in hardwood.  Using them sounds like an excellent way to join your 2x4's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can I use those metal sheet self-drilling screws for wood-to-wood connection?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can, but you would be better off using the screws that you asked about in your first question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T18:04:55.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2599" CreationDate="2015-10-21T18:20:29.883" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those are screws that are made to drill their own hole. The cutout bit at the tip is specifically made to bite into the wood more effectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One tip with screws like this: a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; depends on the amount of pressure you're going to be able to apply in the actual screwing-in.  If this is something where you can directly press on the driver, then typically you should have no problem with these kind of screws without pre-drilling, as long as you're not screwing a very difficult hardwood.  Pine or similar will be no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, on the other hand, if you're screwing these in a weird position where you can't easily apply pressure on the driver, say directly overhead where gravity is fighting you, or a tight fit where you have to use a 90 degree angle bit, you're much better off pre-drilling first if you want your screw to go in straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not use metal screws with wood.  Not only are the threads made for metal and not wood, but that gap in the threads towards the top of the screw that you find in wood screws makes the screw hold much better in wood applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T18:20:29.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2598" CreationDate="2015-10-21T19:03:20.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't believe there are many common computer controlled saws except for custom-built, highly specific machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there are three common machines that are more general purpose that can probably do the job you need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Computer controlled routers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Computer controlled laser cutters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Computer controlled high-pressure waterjet cutters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many open source and custom built, as well as commercial CNC routers. As for the other two, I think those remain mostly commercially built. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also many companies that operate these machines that will cut things for you, for a fee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T19:03:20.077" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2604" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2605" CreationDate="2015-10-21T20:11:47.647" Score="7" ViewCount="1136" Body="&lt;p&gt;My old Sears 5 1/8&quot; jointer motor is dead.  I can't find a replacement.  Trying to haul a new one to my shop in Mexico seems impractical.  I'm contemplating buying a jointer plane or a hand held electric jointer.  Any recommendations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="309" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-10-22T01:39:55.003" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T01:39:55.003" Title="Substitute for Bench-Top Jointer" Tags="|plane|tool-selection|jointer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2604" CreationDate="2015-10-21T20:33:59.440" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm contemplating buying a jointer plane or a hand held electric jointer. Any recommendations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on a few things, in my opinion: how accurate you want to be, how hard to you want to work, and how much do you want to spend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Accuracy&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jointer planes can be amazingly accurate in the right hands.  They have the ability to finesse an edge by thousandths of an inch per pass of the plane.  However, there is a bit of a learning curve to using one.  If you do it all the time, though, it will become second nature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should add that using a jointer plane &lt;em&gt;alone&lt;/em&gt; in lieu of a power jointer is not an entire solution.  To dimension rough boards, you will want to have at least a jack plane or a fore plane to do the rough dimensioning, then come back with the jointer plane for the final flattening passes.  Jointer planes are usually set up to take very fine shavings, whereas jack/fore planes are set to hog out material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A handheld electric jointer can be accurate if used correctly.  They have two plates that you can adjust to a pretty fine shaving (&amp;lt; 1/16&quot; in most models).  You can finesse an edge just as well with an electric jointer as with the manual one mentioned above.  However, just due to the powered nature of the tool, it is a bit less controlled than a hand jointer plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mostly, I've seen electric handheld jointers at construction sites where a carpenter needs to hog off the edge of a board to fit it in a space.  I don't know that I've ever seen one in a &quot;fine&quot; woodworking shop.  This may be because the &quot;fine&quot; woodworkers use a tabletop jointer like what you just broke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Effort&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hand planes take sweat equity to use, there's no doubt about it.  In the time it takes you to flatten a board with a combination of a jack/fore plane and a jointer plane, you could have done two or three with a tabletop jointer and planer.  If you're not averse to that, hand planes work well, like they did in the hundreds of years they were used before electricity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Electric handheld planers take minimal effort to use, as is expected from an electric tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cost&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can probably find a used electric handheld planer for under $100 USD.  Heck, find some retiree who used to do carpentry as a hobby and he will probably give his to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you enter the world of hand planes, you enter a big rabbit hole.  You can definitely find hand planes for cheap if they're in poor condition or if the owner doesn't know what he has.  They will often require some work to get into usable shape.  Otherwise, you can do the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?cat=1&amp;amp;p=41182&quot;&gt;Lee Valley&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lie-nielsen.com/nodes/4063/handplanes&quot;&gt;Lie-Nielsen&lt;/a&gt; route (among others) and buy new, but those babies are &lt;em&gt;expensive&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T20:33:59.440" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2599" CreationDate="2015-10-21T22:47:25.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to disagree a bit with the previous answers and say, &quot;It depends on &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; you pre-drill.&quot;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pre-drilling accomplished three tasks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it makes it easier to 'start' the screw, increasing its 'bite'.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it removes material in the space that is to be taken up by the shaft of the screw, thus lowering the odds of splitting the wood.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it guides the direction of the screw through the material (Thanks Matt!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this screw's tip will help the screw &quot;bite&quot;, it will not remove any wood that would be removed by drilling, thus you increase your chances of splitting the work.  As Matt points out, this screw also will likely not benefit from the directional guidance provided by pre-drilling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1282" LastEditorUserId="1282" LastEditDate="2015-10-22T01:04:40.893" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T01:04:40.893" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2607" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2610" CreationDate="2015-10-22T02:32:44.627" Score="8" ViewCount="5973" Body="&lt;p&gt;While experimenting with stains and struggling with a moderately green piece of poplar, I found that I really like the results of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brush concentrated Clorox bleach, leave for 5 minutes then wipe. Let dry completely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sand lightly with 220 then wipe lightly with mineral spirits to clean, let dry completely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Generous coat of minwax pre stain conditioner. Leave for 30 minutes without wiping excess (it all soaks in).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Generous coat of Varathane golden pecan stain. Leave for 5 minutes then lightly wipe excess.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The conditioner makes minimal difference but the bleach really cleans up the greenish undertones and the color was great. It was almost the same as this stain on pine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: Clorox seems like a cruel thing to put on wood. It definitely changes the texture of poplar slightly. It feels &quot;dryer&quot; or something. Is doing this a mistake? What is the long term downside to bleaching poplar with chlorine bleach before staining it? (I brushed it on the surface, as opposed to outright soaking it, if that's significant. It seemed to have penetrated only about 1-2 mm.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some oxalic acid coming too that I'm going to play with. Still it seems like it isn't the right thing to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2015-10-22T02:47:15.173" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T16:55:40.430" Title="Chlorine bleach on poplar" Tags="|staining|coloring|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2599" CreationDate="2015-10-22T05:15:19.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have said, these are self-drilling.  However, so long as you're using softer woods and have plenty of wood around your screw I find ordinary screws do fine at self-drilling if you're using a good power screwdriver.  The only time I've found a need to pre-drill was redwood for a planter.  Even then the screws would self-drill, but just too many couldn't take the force and snapped instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1283" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-04-13T18:37:09.183" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T18:37:09.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2599" CreationDate="2015-10-22T07:25:30.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normal &quot;wood screws&quot; are what you describe as self drilling.  The bite on the end is not necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, they don't &lt;em&gt;drill&lt;/em&gt; per se.  They compress the wood, like a nail does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fresh (not aged) building stud can have a &quot;wood screw&quot; (up to size #8) sunk without having to drill first. The screws are designed for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drilling first is better and can let you do more.  If you are mounting onto studs in your house, which are not &quot;fresh&quot;, you risk:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;getting stuck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;splitting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hitting too far from the center&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drilling the wall, even if not to full depth of the eventual screw, takes a core sample so you know you hit the stud and eases the passage of the screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The screw you show has a hex head that will stand above the joint. The normal &quot;deck screw&quot; has a &lt;em&gt;bugle head&lt;/em&gt; that will sink itself flush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/b/Lumber-Composites-Decking-Deck-Hardware-Deck-Screws/N-5yc1vZbqmj&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.homedepot.com/b/Lumber-Composites-Decking-Deck-Hardware-Deck-Screws/N-5yc1vZbqmj&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BcqCa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BcqCa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="315" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T07:25:30.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2607" CreationDate="2015-10-22T08:52:59.553" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Clorox seems like a cruel thing to put on wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine that you'll feel very upset then by the thought of using lye on wood, but that too is widely done :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It feels &quot;dryer&quot; or something. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That may be salt residue. Briskly brushing the surface may remove this and return the wood to feeling like it did prior to bleaching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is doing this a mistake? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With two-part wood bleaches (A/B type) one bottle contains sodium hydroxide, lye, which is very basic and likely in a more concentrated solution than common bleach. In the traditional fuming technique to darken oak the wood is exposed to the vapours from concentrated ammonia, another strong base/alkali.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In reality wood is pretty tough stuff, and for many woods even heavy treatment with caustic chemicals — as is done in some furniture-stripping operations — does little more than slight damage &lt;em&gt;to the surface wood fibres only&lt;/em&gt; (somewhat similar to some exposure to sunlight and rain).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is the long term downside to bleaching poplar with chlorine bleach before staining it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None that I'm aware of. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people like to neutralise the bleach by wiping down with vinegar (safety note: after the wood has dried, &lt;em&gt;do not&lt;/em&gt; do this while the bleach is still liquid) but that is likely a pointless step given a number of other treatments with alkaline chemicals are not followed by any use of acids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the opposite direction, some users when they are treating wood with vinegar or other acids like to neutralise these with a dilute solution of baking soda or washing soda (both mild bases). But this too is unnecessary, and in addition can have unintended effects on some species, changing the colour of the wood slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In reality most wood species are naturally acidic, so the surface wood fibres being left acidic won't matter to them. And where an alkaline chemical was used and there's any excess (un-reacted) chemical in the surface wood fibres it will be neutralised naturally over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have some oxalic acid coming too that I'm going to play with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oxalic acid is the wood bleach of choice for dealing with water staining and stains formed from iron reacting with the tannins in wood. It can also be used to treat some of the discolouration from a burn or scorch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that oxalic acid is quite toxic, so do follow safety instructions. Wearing goggles, a dust mask and gloves is advisable when handling the dry powder as well as the prepared liquid solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unrelated to your question, more as a headsup for other readers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Generous coat of minwax pre stain conditioner. Leave for 30 minutes without wiping excess (it all soaks in).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, it appears that &quot;pre-stain conditioners&quot; consistently have incorrect instructions. According to Bob Flexner you tend to get far better, more consistent results if you wait for the product to dry rather than applying stain a short while later as it appears you did here. To say that a lot of user experience supports this would be an understatement, as &quot;pre-stain conditioner&quot; is nothing more than a dilute finish in most cases; and very dilute shellac or varnish*, thinned protein-based glues also, have been used for centuries to do the very same job — what used to and still should be called &lt;em&gt;sizing&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, conditioners should generally be used only where needed: for controlling blotching in blotch-prone woods. It's a needless expense and time penalty otherwise, and in addition it can negatively affect the very results you're hoping to achieve. What sizing does is partially seal off the wood, lessening stain penetration, which is usually the exact opposite of what we want when staining**. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*And I would recommend using dilute shellac or varnish for this instead of the commercial product because A, you can use the final finish you're going to be applying to the wood anyway, B, you know exactly what you're using and can control its strength to perfectly suit the wood you're using, and C, because it'll almost always be far cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**Where a lighter staining effect is desired for any given stain colour, simply diluting the stain is often a more direct way of achieving the same result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2015-10-22T16:55:40.430" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T16:55:40.430" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2611" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2612" CreationDate="2015-10-22T14:46:15.410" Score="14" ViewCount="61380" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I cut a large (3.5' - 4' in diameter)  circle out of a 4x8 sheet of plywood. The preferred method would be one that doesn't leave any holes/marks in the circle's plywood surface. It needs to be as near perfect as possible (shape/edges of the circle). The circle cutout will be used as a table top. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tools that I have at my disposal are: Router, Dremel, circular saw, 10&quot; table saw, 14&quot; band saw, 10&quot; drill press, jigsaw, and a lathe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1172" LastEditorUserId="1172" LastEditDate="2015-10-22T15:31:09.680" LastActivityDate="2017-05-23T14:02:40.343" Title="How can I cleanly cut a large circle out of plywood?" Tags="|technique|tool-selection|plywood|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2611" CreationDate="2015-10-22T15:34:13.313" Score="23" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How can I cut a large circle out of a 4x8 sheet of plywood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You sound like the perfect candidate for a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/rockler-trim-router-circle-jig&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;router circle jig&lt;/a&gt;.  The one linked is available at Rockler, but they are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-Router-Circle-Cutting-Jig/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;easy enough to make yourself&lt;/a&gt; out of plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pGmFF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pGmFF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;circle jig&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The preferred method would be one that doesn't leave any holes/marks in the plywood surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one pictured uses a pin to keep the jig centered.  This will leave a small hole in the plywood that you could either keep on the bottom side (assuming it doesn't go entirely through) or find a way to cover up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, you should be able to find a way to affix the circle template to the plywood in a non-marring way, such as using &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B002UV6Q0A&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;double-sided carpet tape&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other means to make a large circle, as identified in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1112/how-does-one-make-a-perfect-circle-on-a-table-saw&quot;&gt;related Question&lt;/a&gt;.  However, in my opinion, none will leave as nice of an edge finish as the router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-10-23T14:59:29.243" LastActivityDate="2015-10-23T14:59:29.243" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2611" CreationDate="2015-10-22T16:13:47.630" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can cut a perfect circle top using your table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do this, you will need a jig (a large sheet of plywood with a pin on which the board being cut spins).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cut off corners (on the work piece) to remove large amounts of excess material.  The first set of cuts take a square piece to an octagon.  Then cut off more corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the jig, you can slowly cut off the excess by spinning the work piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is one example I found showing this technique: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ruV_J5wGC6o&quot;&gt;Cutting large circles on the table saw&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to have both sides of the work piece without holes, you can attach it to a sacrificial board using double sided tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="107" LastEditorUserId="107" LastEditDate="2015-10-22T18:27:11.967" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T18:27:11.967" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2611" CreationDate="2015-10-22T18:11:00.573" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another option if you want to buy a tool for your Band saw, there are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carterproducts.com/band-saw-products/accuright&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;circle cutting jigs&lt;/a&gt;.  The Carter one can cut circles over 4' in diameter.  I have one of these, though I've only used it a couple times.  For flat stock it works pretty good, I bought it to cut bowl blanks round.  You need to have your band saw tuned up well to get best results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lv43q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;!Jig&quot;&gt;[&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s3rJ6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Jig being used&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-10-22T22:30:52.453" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T22:30:52.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2570" CreationDate="2015-10-22T19:07:27.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;find a similar type of wood. use a sander to get some saw dust, mix with a little gorilla glue, to 'wet it' and press into the hole. keep the pressure on until cured. then drill out. or you could just make a wood paste and press the stud into place and hold there till cured. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="785" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T19:07:27.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2611" CreationDate="2015-10-22T21:32:23.997" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pick one according to skill level.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hook it up to your lathe after cutting it down to an octagon or hexadecagon, (squares are unruly,) and use a wide lathe bit to trim down to a penciled circle. Sand to perfect straight edges. Only try this, though, if you are good at lathing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Also, you can put a nail in the middle, hook up a hand- moved power saw to it with a string as you would with drawing a circle, and ever so carefully pull it around the string into a perfect circle. You could also use a little wood and a nail or two to make a compass, which does the same thing. You can pull this with a little less skill using a router.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For a little money, you can put it on a device that spins it into a saw blade until it's perfectly circular with a pin. If you're willing to spend any money, you can buy a circle cutting jig or similar device for  downwards of 400$. If needed, sacrifice a  small piece of wood that holds the pin and is duct-taped on. This can be a piece you cut off to start.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1288" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T21:32:23.997" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2617" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2619" CreationDate="2015-10-22T21:56:28.710" Score="11" ViewCount="534" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a total beginner when it comes to turning, but am interested in doing more of it both to help augment my woodworking (e.g. everything from custom button plugs to chair legs etc) as well as to do some traditional turning projects (e.g. pepper mill and maybe some small bowls).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am struggling to understand what the differences are between the variety of chisel sets that are out there.  I understand more or less the different tools that I want, but I do not understand what characteristics of those tools I should care about and how/why price of the tools are driven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several folks out there seem to suggest that something like this  &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000KI8CTS&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KI8CTS&lt;/a&gt; makes a great starter set.  Almost universally people seem to suggest/imply that &quot;better&quot; tools are important and worth the price difference.  Some people have gone so far as to say &quot;whatever you do don't get the ones made in China.&quot;  Why not?  What's the difference (besides cost and it looks like slight size variations) between a set like that and, say, a set from Robert Sorby like this one: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00012X7LQ&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Robert-Sorby-H6542-Turning-Tool/dp/B00012X7LQ&lt;/a&gt;?  What makes a &quot;better tool&quot; better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They both seem to be made of high speed steel (which I'm told is important and what I want).  They both appear to be similar length tools.  Is one more durable?  Is handle shape/material of any importance?  What are the other factors that I should care about when evaluating a turning chisel? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="566" LastActivityDate="2015-10-24T13:25:43.090" Title="What should one consider when purchasing an intro turning chisel set?" Tags="|hand-tools|tool-selection|turning|chisel|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2617" CreationDate="2015-10-23T10:12:21.440" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Almost universally people seem to suggest/imply that &quot;better&quot; tools are important and worth the price difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That certainly used to be a worthwhile general shopping guide, one that is repeated in many early woodworking books that I've read (the same principle is repeated outside of woodworking circles too of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But to be honest I'm not sure it has ever been universally true. And it's absolutely not the case today that high price guarantees quality, or that low price automatically means you're buying a mediocre or outright poor tool.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many of the bigger name brands are not the same company that they were, and their name (and the consequent higher/high price commanded by their tools) are &lt;em&gt;not in any way&lt;/em&gt; an assurance of high quality. Perhaps the best example of this in the broader woodworking scene is Stanley; the current company has for all intents and purposes zero relationship to the Stanley of old, except that they own the name. Even by the latter part of the 20th century Stanley's standards had slipped noticeably, and now much of their product line is considered from mediocre to outright junk, depending on whose opinion you're listening to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A great illustration of the potential for high quality at a low price (note: low, not low&lt;strong&gt;er&lt;/strong&gt;) are the bevel-edge chisels sold by Aldi. Their reputation has spread online due in no small part to Paul Sellers in the UK plugging them so consistently. And he's right to, as I think they still are the cheapest chisels on the UK market while still being full size, and featuring hardwood handles and not moulded plastic. Their qualities, as judged by many experienced woodworkers including Sellers, are right up there with some competitors that cost upwards of five times more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some people have gone so far as to say &quot;whatever you do don't get the ones made in China.&quot; Why not? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's a very good question and cuts right to the heart of tool prejudices (and dare I say it, may even be a form of racism). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simple fact of the matter is that this is an opinion and you can be assured that anyone who says that everything made in China is junk, or should be avoided on principle, is ill-informed and outright wrong. The Aldi chisels mentioned just above? They are of course made in China. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's particularly sad about this is many of the tools that these same people buy, from some name brands they trust, &lt;em&gt;are now also made in China&lt;/em&gt;. Which highlights how foolish it is to make that kind of sweeping condemnation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;They both seem to be made of high speed steel (which I'm told is important and what I want). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is important but it's not necessarily what you want. HSS could almost be considered obsolete for turning tools (almost) because carbide-tipped tools are now on the market, offering far longer service life — reducing the &lt;em&gt;constant&lt;/em&gt; need to re-sharpen that has dogged turners since, well, forever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sharpening of turning tools shouldn't be downplayed: in turning you may sometimes have to sharpen multiple times before the shaping of a single project is completed. So a grinder should be factored in as not just a desirable additional purchase, but almost a necessity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is one more durable? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible, but I wouldn't want to say in which direction TBH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the &quot;HSS&quot; label is just a starting point, it doesn't really guarantee anything specific. In addition to HSS being an inherently tough steel type with good hardening properties, the exact alloy used (there are a few), and the way the tool was formed in the factory are critical factors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's much the same as with basic high-carbon tool steel, as used pretty universally 100 years ago for all sorts of cutting tools; it didn't mean that all chisels or plane irons produced at the time were of equal quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is handle shape/material of any importance? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes and yes, but personal preferences are very important here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many turners make it a point to turn their own tool handles to suit their individual tastes on the ideal handle shape (often going for a much long handle for example), and will go so far as to immediately replace the handles on expensive chisels they just bought. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re. material, once you pass a certain strength the type of hardwood doesn't appear to matter that much. It would seem from practical experience that material properties like vibration dampening (a traditional reason that ash was favoured) aren't as critical as was/is supposed, given than many people are very happy with handles made from maple, rosewood, even ebony, none of which share this characteristic. These days plastics and even the occasional metal handle are seen, which again argues strongly that material qualities are not a critical factor except in terms of what the user likes or doesn't like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-10-23T10:12:21.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1866" CreationDate="2015-10-23T11:34:31.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Eraser.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It is soft enough to dig into the scratches to remove the pencil line but not hard enough to scar the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastActivityDate="2015-10-23T11:34:31.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2611" CreationDate="2015-10-23T17:57:02.303" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you absolutely want no marks on either side of your workpiece, use a router circle jig as above and make a template. Attach it to your workpiece with double-sided tape and use a pattern bit. Cut close to the line with a jig saw and finish with the pattern bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1301" LastActivityDate="2015-10-23T17:57:02.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2617" CreationDate="2015-10-23T18:14:44.987" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding to Graphus's excellent and comprehensive answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have both the cheap PSI tools you linked to and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001C4QSX6&quot;&gt;Crown Pro-PM Powdered Metallurgy&lt;/a&gt;.  (as well as other misc pieces).   I like both of them.  Part of what makes a difference is what you are turning.  Because the Pro-PM tools only need to be sharpened 1/3-1/4 as often as the PSI tools.  Small projects won't make much difference, and many woods won't make much difference either.  Pine, walnut cherry, all cut pretty nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, some are terrible.  White oak in my experience dulls the chisels much much faster than many other woods, even over red oak.  I think it has mineral deposits that dull the tips.  So when I am turning a a decent sized white oak bowl I can spend a third of my time sharpening my chisels when using the HSS from PSI.  But the Pro-PM saves me a lot of time at the grinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an added note, I actually broke one of the Pro-PM chisels at the tong, (friend welded it back together thank goodness!) and the same kind of heavy use my PSI are still whole. (I was using it incorrectly, but I was doing the same thing with both sets!)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always recommend starting with a cheap set of turning chisels because &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you might not like it and it's a much lower cost to try it out.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They work just fine (generally) with some extra sharpening. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you break one you are not out much.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Many don't use all the different chisels evenly, so you can decide what you actually want in a chisel, size, shape etc. and buy singles of the spendy ones one at a time, keeping the cheap set around to use when you need a different style.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several chisels across both sets that I very rarely use, I feel much better about the cheap ones sitting there neglected than the Pro-PM one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;5&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You learn to grind an edge on the cheap chisels so you don't burn your more expensive one!  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-10-23T19:01:36.407" LastActivityDate="2015-10-23T19:01:36.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2569" CreationDate="2015-10-23T18:33:19.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question remains why are your surfaces uneven if they passed over the jointer and then with the reference surface created by the jointer on the bed of the planer you should have two flat parallel surfaces. Nonetheless, I would have placed my reference surface down on my bench and clamped it flat before cutting the biscuit slots. I think this would prevent this problem in the future. Planner  sleds work well for others. When I build large glueups like table tops I take them to a local shop that has a wide belt sander and have them cleaned up. Depending on the level of finish desired I will hand plane afterwards. Warning: I have been told over and over the the sander leaves abrasives behind that will dull your planes but I have not had that experience. Good luck with your project!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1301" LastActivityDate="2015-10-23T18:33:19.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2624" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2627" CreationDate="2015-10-24T00:28:53.193" Score="8" ViewCount="3288" Body="&lt;p&gt;When making butt joints for corners, say, for small little cabinets to hang on a wall (think medicine cabinet), structurally is there any difference between longer tops and longer sides (I'm using biscuits and glue, and I find I like using cleats attached to the inside top for hanging)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IZuUl.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IZuUl.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally prefer the look of longer tops and bottoms especially if I intend to use the top surface as a shelf, but having longer sides is much easier for me to construct since all the horizontals are the same length, and gives a slightly easier order of assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lesser question: In addition to structural properties, is there any traditional/historical stylistic tendency for longer tops vs. sides?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize the butt joint is a boring joint but in my limited experience I find that I keep agonizing over which to choose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-10-24T04:45:23.407" LastActivityDate="2015-10-25T09:58:33.627" Title="Corner butt joint, longer top or longer sides?" Tags="|joinery|design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2624" CreationDate="2015-10-24T02:50:18.710" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is going to be that small then I think either configuration would be more than sufficient with biscuits. Butt joints are considered one of the weakest but the biscuits should be gluing face to face (grain I mean). That way you are overcoming the butt joints main drawback. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it is worth I have an older medicine cabinet and it uses rabbet and a dado joint (might have a more elegant name) for the frame and shelf. The joint is exposed from the front and back just like in the below photo. The door is a simple mirror with a mitre joint frame. So in essence mine matches you longer sides picture.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sUKTG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sUKTG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rabbet and dado&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2015-10-24T02:50:18.710" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2617" CreationDate="2015-10-24T13:25:43.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Welcome to turning! There are excellent and thoughtful answers here already, but I wanted to add my two cents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I began turning last year and had a miserable time with my first chisel set, a well reviewed set from harbor freight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood turning became delightful the minute I splurged one just one carbide-tipped tool - it allows me to focus on working the wood, not sharpening tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just one Easy Wood Tools carbide rougher (round bit) was enough for me to make dozens of bowls and rapidly get better at the basics of turning. If I ever worried the cutting edge was dull, I could just rotate it a quarter-turn or so to see if dullness was at issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am sure I will learn to appreciate fine chisels and the art of sharpening at some point, but if you are just trying to get turning it is worth considering if chisels are what you need right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="292" LastActivityDate="2015-10-24T13:25:43.090" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2624" CreationDate="2015-10-25T09:58:33.627" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When making butt joints for corners... structurally is there any difference between longer tops and longer sides [using biscuits and glue]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, with longer sides it would be stronger. The reasons being: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;for the glue line to be broken it has to shear through at 0°, versus being pulled apart at 90° which is much easier (although it must be stated, still very difficult if made properly);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and with biscuits they'd have to be snapped across their centre for the joint to break, rather than simply pulled free from their slots which is obviously much easier in principle (again, still very difficult).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For very large constructions that need to hold up a lot of inherent weight (the weight of the piece itself), even before the added load of items stored inside, longer sides would be far preferable. But for smaller pieces I suspect it doesn't matter in practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One additional advantage to longer sides is pure aesthetic: in this case (wall-mounted item) there's less end grain visible in the finished piece, which is considered very desirable by many woodworkers although some are less fussy about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A lesser question: In addition to structural properties, is there any traditional/historical stylistic tendency for longer tops vs. sides?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It wouldn't have been common for boxes of this basic construction to have been built historically as they didn't often rely on 90° butt joints, but in more recent tradition where dowels have been widely used I'm fairly sure longer sides would have been the preferred orientation for exactly the same reasons as stated above for biscuits, where again the dowels can be pulled free more easily than snapped cleanly in two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It shouldn't go unsaid though that many traditional woodworking techniques go toward making the strongest piece possible for any given joint type, and it's widely acknowledged that this means much furniture has over-engineered joints, i.e. much stronger than truly needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-10-25T09:58:33.627" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2628" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2631" CreationDate="2015-10-25T14:37:23.740" Score="7" ViewCount="4521" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will probably have to wait until next summer but I am going to build my first woodworking bench soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to have at least one vise on it. I was thinking the front or leg vise. They both clamp in the same location. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leg vise can be built from solely wood components and has a deep throat. It also is the largest of all bench vises from what I can tell. A &quot;con&quot; could be that a traditional leg vise relies on a parallel bar at the foot. Modern ones have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=72652&amp;amp;cat=1,41659&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;different designs&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front vise has a smaller throat and typically has metal for the track. The overall design itself is smaller as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am hoping to use this to help with sawing dovetails. I understand that it is not the only way but I feel more comfortable with the boards in a vertical position. I would like this fact not to distract from the actual question of vise choice. Merely an attempt at providing context to the question.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure that I know the basic differences between the two but I want to be sure I am not overlooking any feature or potential draw back. I think both would work for what I am trying to do. What are the functional differences between a leg and front vise? What criteria might make me choose one over the other? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-10-26T18:46:03.317" LastActivityDate="2023-11-13T22:31:04.907" Title="Front and Leg vise" Tags="|design|workbench|vises|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2629" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2630" CreationDate="2015-10-25T15:00:01.513" Score="10" ViewCount="5962" Body="&lt;p&gt;I applied a coat of dewaxed shellac (Bulls Eye) as a first coat on some poplar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then noticed that the can said do not apply if humidity exceeds 85%. I live in a generally humid area. Today is a rainy day and the humidity is 95% (89-100% forecast, temp ~60F/16C, indoors no heat), it's one of those days where the books on my shelf are damp. I sanded the poplar heavily first because it had surface moisture and the grain had risen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: Why can't I apply the shellac at humidity greater than 85%, what happens if I do, and if it was a big mistake how can I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It definitely is taking a long time to dry. I intend to coat with stain (Varathane, oil base) then a polyurethane (Garco, oil modified) eventually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2015-10-26T14:34:44.453" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T14:34:44.453" Title="Applying shellac in high humidity" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2629" CreationDate="2015-10-25T20:16:35.933" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why can't I apply the shellac at humidity greater than 85%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few reasons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One is that a very high water content in the air can slow drying, as you've experienced (a thin coat of shellac would normally take no longer than 10-15 minutes to dry) or prevent proper drying. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main reason though is that as alcohol evaporates from a surface it cools it — just as you can feel if you get some on your fingers — and as the alcohol evaporates out of the shellac coat it can chill enough that it actually condenses moisture out of the air onto the surface. Shellac is moisture-sensitive as you probably know and this condensed moisture can be enough for the shellac to go cloudy. This clouding can sometimes be fixed, but obviously it's better to avoid it if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, as with most instructions on finish labels the 85% humidity thing should be taken as a general guideline rather than an absolute. I regularly apply shellac at humidities above 80% because I have no choice: it's &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; that humid here. The reason this can work is that relative humidity doesn't directly correlate to an absolute amount of water in the air, it's tied to the temperature. So it's much much more moist in the tropics at 100% humidity than it is somewhere more temperate. Also, how heavily the shellac is applied is a factor since the thicker a coat is the more alcohol is evaporating and the cooler the surface can get. So thin wiped-on coats can work without a hitch even when it's very humid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that said, it is probably a good idea not to use shellac on the wettest of days. It's a pain, but a product's limitations are what they are and we have to work within them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;and if it was a big mistake how can I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's only a mistake if it caused an issue. If your shellac eventually dried right — hard, not sticky and with no clouding — then you're fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-10-25T20:16:35.933" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2628" CreationDate="2015-10-26T14:38:44.863" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the functional differences between a leg and front vise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you've already hit on them pretty well in your Question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leg vise can be built from solely wood components and has a deep throat. It also is the largest of all bench vises from what I can tell. A &amp;quot;con&amp;quot; could be that a traditional leg vise relies on a parallel bar at the foot. Modern ones have different designs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front vise has a smaller throat and typically has metal for the track. The overall design itself is smaller as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, you can build a &lt;a href=&quot;http://s271.photobucket.com/user/PTJacobsen/media/facevise800600.jpg.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;front vise entirely out of wood&lt;/a&gt; too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7MEna.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7MEna.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;wood face vise&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What criteria might make me choose one over the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll try to expand upon some more considerations below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Front (Face) Vise&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Face vises are generally like the wooden one shown above.  They have a center screw for tightening/loosening the vise with a set of parallel guide bars to help keep the vise from racking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you stated, they generally have a shallow throat (the distance between the top of the screw and the top of the vise).  This means they may not be able to hold some items as securely as other vises since there is less clamping surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When clamping with a face vise, if you clamp the piece in one end of the vise, you will want to clamp a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=69605&amp;amp;cat=1,41659&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rack stop&lt;/a&gt; or another similarly-sized piece of wood in the opposite end to keep the vise face from racking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since a face vise has a small footprint, it may be possible to slip a drawer carcase over the vise to fix it in the jaws.  I can't find a picture of this online, but I've done it before.  This is not possible with a leg vise because of the leg vise's length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Leg Vise&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leg vises act like a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lever#Classes_of_levers&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Class 3 lever&lt;/a&gt; (mechanical advantage always less that 1.0).  Consider the image below (from &lt;a href=&quot;https://lakeerietoolworks.wordpress.com/tag/wooden-leg-vise/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lake Erie Toolworks&lt;/a&gt;).  This has a similar criss-cross bracing to the Benchcrafted example you provided.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WXcs0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WXcs0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lake Eire leg vise&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just so you're aware, the criss-cross (aka St. Peter's Cross) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/st-peter%E2%80%99s-cross-and-the-ultimate-leg-vise&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;is nothing new for leg vises&lt;/a&gt;.  It's just another way that craftsmen have historically found to cope with the balance of forces at play with this vise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compared to the face vise, the leg vise has a deeper throat but it has a narrower face.  Thus, it can clamp things more deeply in the vise and is able to apply a higher force to a smaller area.  Also, because the face is much narrower, leg vises usually don't have issues with racking like face vises do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, since leg vises have a narrow clamping width, they usually need the help of a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QydDquSlwyI&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;deadman&lt;/a&gt; to hold longer stock.  You'll find these on just about every Roubo-style workbench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4s3by.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4s3by.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;deadman&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Moxon Vise&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am hoping to use this to help with sawing dovetails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know your question specifically asked about leg and front vises, but you mention doing dovetails as one impetus for choosing a vise.  I offer that building a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/tools/tool-test-philadelphia-furniture-workshop-moxon-vise&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Moxon vise&lt;/a&gt; is a better solution that either for doing dovetail work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LYri6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LYri6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;moxon vise&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Moxon vise is especially suited for dovetailing since it firmly clamps boards in the vertical position at a height that is comfortable for sawing dovetails.  Spend a couple hours hunched over a leg/front vise sawing dovetails and you will come to appreciate the joys of a properly-constructed Moxon vise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T14:38:44.863" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2632" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2633" CreationDate="2015-10-26T14:52:48.857" Score="6" ViewCount="2470" Body="&lt;p&gt;After staining a piece of poplar a series of subtle, regularly spaced cross-grain markings appeared on the factory cut faces (I've attempted to make markings more visible with the green indicators):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kCZqq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kCZqq.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was not on every board, only a few. I sanded the wood smooth first (and put down a probably-inappropriate coat of shellac), and the markings were not visible to my eyes prior to staining or when the stain was wet. They appeared as the stain dried. There are 4 markings every 1-1/8&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried applying a second coat but it still did not hide them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: What are these from and how can I either hide them, prep the wood before staining to eliminate them, or determine if a board will have them ahead of time so I can avoid using it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am assuming they are artifacts from how the board was cut at the factory. My only thought is perhaps as a rule I could trim all factory edges off all boards on the table saw ahead of time, but this seems cumbersome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2015-10-26T15:34:26.383" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T22:51:48.893" Title="Hiding factory machine marks" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2632" CreationDate="2015-10-26T15:12:02.707" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What are these from and how can I either hide them, prep the wood before staining to eliminate them, or determine if a board will have them ahead of time so I can avoid using it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These look to be leftover striations from the planing process.  As you probably know, a planer is just a rapidly-rotating knife on a cylinder with a board being fed through it.  Minor differences between the different knives in the planer cutting head lead to these striations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only truly effective way to get rid of these marks is to remove the wood that carries them.  Therefore, you have to plane/sand/scrape to a level of wood that does not have them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no staining or finishing process that will really be effective in removing the marks since they are a defect in the grain of the wood.  Removing the &quot;bad&quot; wood is the only way to get rid of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know that there's a very fool-proof way to avoid boards that exhibit these markings.  Usually, if you buy rough-planed stock, you can clearly see the marks and plane them yourself to remove the marks.  If you buy the stock pre-planed, you might try looking down the board using a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raking_light&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;raking light&lt;/a&gt; to see if you see the patterns left by the planer cutting head.  Also, as @keshlam pointed out, you can give the board a quick wipedown with a rag soaked in mineral spirits to &quot;preview&quot; what the finished grain will look like (don't worry, the mineral spirits will evaporate away pretty quickly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;and put down a probably-inappropriate coat of shellac&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not consider a coat of shellac &quot;inappropriate&quot; unless you were planning to stain before finishing and didn't sand it back to bare wood.  Shellac is a good sanding sealer and will help make a smooth finish in the end.  Also, shellac can help with splotchiness in some woods that exhibit it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-10-26T22:51:48.893" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T22:51:48.893" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2628" CreationDate="2015-10-26T19:40:45.377" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Leg vise can be built from solely wood components and has a deep throat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, but actually any type of vice can be built entirely from wood if needed or desired (as many were in the past). It usually requires that the components are scaled up somewhat for needed strength, but in essence you're just substituting a threaded wooden dowel for any threaded steel rods, plain dowels for the alignment rods/bars and the jaws are just wood without having a metal plate or some sort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It also is the largest of all bench vises from what I can tell. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Largest vice is arguably the end vice or one of the twin-screw vices commonly called a Moxon these days: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oW3GH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oW3GH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;End vice + Moxon vice&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, these are quite a bit wider than you'd tend to see in a leg vice. But in all cases it does depend on the scale on which the vice is built. It's quite possible to make a smaller Moxon-style vice just as you can have wider or narrower versions of all vices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What are the functional differences between a leg and front vise? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It terms of their utility I suspect the answer is actually nothing. They work similarly enough that they could be considered interchangeable. Or to put it another way, someone with either a face vice or a leg vice isn't lacking something significant that the other has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What criteria might make me choose one over the other? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly I think leg vices tend to appeal to people mostly based on their looks and their traditional style, rather than being a decision based primarily on functionality. Although the homemade aspect of them is also a major factor for some people; however it must be said, versions of all vices can be shop-made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now regarding the use you intend to put them to, as I say in my comment above, you can do dovetailing quite happily without any sort of vice if the bench design allows an alternate workholding method, such as the traditional holdfast (or a modern variation), as this extract from one of Chris Schwarz's books shows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dcu2C.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dcu2C.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dovetails without a vice&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(Note you could also use a pair of holdfasts to hold the workpiece firmly.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you're after the simplest possible option that allows you to hold a workpiece vertically something along these lines is it. You could also use quick clamps, parallel clamps or F-clamps to clamp a board vertically to one of the legs of your bench as a very quick and expedient variation (useful as it doesn't require your bench to have a front apron or any horizontal holes bored in the legs, so in theory this method is adaptable to nearly any bench).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However that's not the solution I think would best suit you. When I started writing my reply in the morning before I got called away I was intending to build towards a recommendation of a Moxon-style vice just as in grfrazee's excellent Answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the chief advantages of using a Moxon-style vice for dovetailing specifically is that you can raise the &lt;em&gt;clamped height&lt;/em&gt; of the workpiece above the usual height of working:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ydNC9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ydNC9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sawing dovetails, Moxon&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nearly any vice can hold a board vertical with its top edge at that same height but with a conventional one the clamping surfaces are right at the level of the workbench so the piece is held much further down its length. This of course allows for more vibration as you might get sawing dovetails. When doing dovetails on smaller boards, e.g. for small drawers and boxes, this raised clamping height really comes into its own, so that you're not doing fine, accurate sawing bent over in the same posture you used when planing a board face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another of the key advantages of this style of vice as I see it is that they can be built by the woodworker in so many different ways, so there's a version out there that would suit any budget. Some makers use commercial vice hardware for some or all of the working components, others just buy a type of threaded rod with a few matching nuts and go from there, and some make every component from wood:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R39tN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R39tN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Many style of Moxon&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still others make the vice using nothing more than existing clamps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nTxo9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nTxo9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Clamp-based Moxon&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you should be able to see from the above picture the one made using F-clamps doesn't even require that the clamps be built permanently into the vice, so it's particularly useful for the woodworker with limited space or means. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T19:40:45.377" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2636" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-27T13:34:39.267" Score="6" ViewCount="471" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm designing wooden speakers with MDF using Sketchup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much space is taken up by the glue between two pieces? 1mm per side? Less?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using biscuit joining and white wood glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Explanation with screenshot :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a back panel of 351x276 vertically, external size is 320 - 22 - 22 = 276mm, which is the ideal space to fit vertically the back panel.  But, after assembly, it takes more space&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much space would you plan to account for the glue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Cjix.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Cjix.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1310" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-10-27T15:47:37.493" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T16:02:30.827" Title="Space between assembly" Tags="|mdf|assembly|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2636" CreationDate="2015-10-27T15:11:53.633" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that you don't need to account for the space unless your angles will all be exactly, without fault, 90 degrees, and each cut will be accurate within 0.25mm.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, woodworking is not the same as designing a car part from metal with very precise tolerances.  If you do need that level of precision, I would venture to say that you will have to take measurements using your cut MDF, your glue, and your clamps because slight variations in any of those might affect the measurement (which will probably end up being less than 0.1mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1286" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T15:11:53.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2636" CreationDate="2015-10-27T15:47:25.363" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How much space is taken up by the glue between two pieces? 1mm per side? Less?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, this thickness of glue in a butt joint is negligible to the point of being zero, at least as far as woodworking tolerances go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, the glue does have some finite thickness, but it's probably on the order of 1/10mm in a properly-clamped joint.  Trying to account for the glue line when you cut your pieces will be an exercise in frustration and futility since there's no way to make your cuts that accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question, &lt;strong&gt;I would assume the glue thickness is zero.&lt;/strong&gt;  Clamp the pieces tightly and make sure your joints are all properly fitted, and this assumption should be pretty much accurate - at least, accurate enough for woodwork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T15:47:25.363" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2639" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2642" CreationDate="2015-10-27T15:52:42.857" Score="6" ViewCount="1900" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not asking how to solve what a corner radius &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; on a piece, rather how to calculate what corner radius I &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; use on a piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to make a (negative) template to follow with my router. In order to do so, I need to use a hole saw to drill out a curved corner. I'm having trouble calculating what the corner radius would be such that I can determine what size hole saw to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The picture probably explains better than my words, but essentially I want to round off the corners of a rectangle with the curve starting 3/4&quot; away from the corner. I don't know if this is more &lt;em&gt;math&lt;/em&gt; but it's something I've run into previously while woodworking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would I determine both the size of the hole saw to use as well as the distance I should center it from the corner (r)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HE8G3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HE8G3.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="220" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-10-28T10:10:00.867" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T10:10:00.867" Title="How can I calculate the value for a corner radius?" Tags="|hole-saw|template|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2636" CreationDate="2015-10-27T16:02:30.827" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/2637/128&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; that having a zero tolerance precision can make for a big headache in woodworking (This is more true for real wood as it expands and contracts but the point still applies). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I offer a design compromise for these inaccuracies. You should be able chamfer the edges of your box to hide and inconsistencies in your external dimensions. An extreme example to illustrate my point would be this picture I found&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A8hgCm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A8hgCm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chamfered box&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://tcpip.dhandanought.org/node/54&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dhandanought&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MDF is known for its dimensional stability but slightly less so for its strength. What I mean by that is it can dent easily and especially on the corners. Chamfers remove the corners. That should keep the overall appearance of the speaker box and possibly add some flair to it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T16:02:30.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2639" CreationDate="2015-10-27T16:05:56.800" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want the curve to start 3/4&quot; away from the corner the radius of your curve is going to be 3/4&quot;.  So, to make that curve with a drill bit, double the radius to get the diameter of the bit... 1-1/2&quot; bit.  It would be centered 3/4&quot; away from each side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1286" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T16:05:56.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2639" CreationDate="2015-10-27T16:39:49.717" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your diagram I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; doesn't actually clarify the situation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I want to round off the corners of a rectangle with the curve starting 3/4&quot; away from the corner&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm reading this correctly 3/4&quot; &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; your radius, so double that is the diameter of the bit you need to use. I don't think it's any more complicated than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To place the centre point in relation to the corner, you can do that just by marking outwards in both directions 3/4&quot; and using a try square to cross the lines. Alternatively if you want to mark along the 45°, using Pythagoras it'll be 1.06&quot; (or just a hair under 27mm) from the corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T16:39:49.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2643" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2644" CreationDate="2015-10-27T18:00:56.750" Score="5" ViewCount="4915" Body="&lt;p&gt;After looking at the &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2628/front-and-leg-vise&quot;&gt;answers for this question&lt;/a&gt; I was inspired to make a Moxon vise for easy table top use. This will buy me time until I make my actual woodworking bench. The one I have in mind is similar to this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cyVZw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cyVZw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Moxon Vise&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/MoxonDovetailVise.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Inthewoodshop.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the simpler designs involve a threaded wooden dowel, which is something I want to try out. The tool to use would be one just like this (but not necessarily this one):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vo2Rh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vo2Rh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dowel Threader&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/manualwoodthreader1-126tpi.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;highlandwoodworking.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I am going to make threaded dowel for a vise what do I need to consider? I can think of two things: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wood&lt;/strong&gt; Something like a maple; at least a hardwood minimum&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Diameter&lt;/strong&gt; Surely it needs to be of a fair size. Would 1 inch be sufficient? If it is too large, would there be a concern?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T17:02:53.313" Title="Considerations when making my own threaded dowel for a vise" Tags="|wood-selection|design|workbench|dowel|vises|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2643" CreationDate="2015-10-27T19:05:24.867" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I am going to make threaded dowel for a vise what do I need to consider. I can think of two things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wood&lt;/strong&gt; Something like a maple; at least a hardwood minimum&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you'll find that a lot of larger threaded screws made of wood (in the USA, at least) were/are made of hard maple.  This is what &lt;a href=&quot;http://lakeerietoolworks.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lake Erie Toolworks&lt;/a&gt; uses for their vise screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hard maple is a good choice since it has tight, closed grain and is not generally subject to chipping.  The side-grain forces on a screw require that it be resistant to chipping.  Oak would probably be a poor choice for that reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, if you look at a lot of older wooden plow planes with wooden armatures, they were generally made of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buxus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;boxwood&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beech&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;beech&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/epRJF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/epRJF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;wooden plow&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.greatplanestrading.com/HUM09/HUMA007.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GreatPlanesTrading&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boxwood is very close-grained and tough as nails.  Beech is also tough and pretty close-grained (not to mention cheap at the time).  I imagine that &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lignum_vitae&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;lignum vitae&lt;/a&gt; would make a good screw as well since it machines so well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important part to remember for any wooden screw is that it must be very straight grained and free of defects.  Grain runout will weaken the shaft of the screw.  Any little knots in the piece will cause extra wear in your screw mechanism and be that much harder to cut out when making the threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Diameter&lt;/strong&gt; Surely it needs to be of a fair size. Would 1 inch be sufficient? If it is too large, would there be a concern?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will likely find that large vise screws are much larger than 1&amp;quot;.  The Lake Erie leg vise, for example, uses 2-1/4&amp;quot; diameter dowels for their screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, for a smaller vise like your Moxon vise, this is overkill.  A 1&amp;quot; diameter screw is most likely fine.  If the screw is larger, there is no real concern - to a point.  If you have too large a thread pitch, the piece you thread into needs to be sufficiently thick that the threads have something to bite into.  Example: if you have a 1&amp;quot; thread pitch screwing into a 1/2&amp;quot;-thick board, you don't have anywhere near enough thread wall in your nut to resist the screwing forces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to take a crack at making the dowel yourself (without a fancy threading jig), have a look at &lt;em&gt;L'art du menuisier&lt;/em&gt;, by André Jacob Roubo.  I forget exactly where he discusses it, but I know it's in there.  Lost Art Press has an &lt;a href=&quot;http://lostartpress.com/products/to-make-as-perfectly-as-possible-roubo-on-marquetry&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;English translation&lt;/a&gt; of it for sale, as well as the big &lt;a href=&quot;http://lostartpress.com/products/l-art-du-menuisier-the-book-of-plates&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;book of Roubo's plates&lt;/a&gt; that accompany the volumes.  You can also find scans of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://archive.org/details/gri_33125009321916&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;original French text&lt;/a&gt; online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T22:24:35.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2643" CreationDate="2015-10-28T11:23:30.720" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Excellent answer already from grfrazee, just wanted to add some practical options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The tool to use would be one just like this (but not necessarily this one):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see in the Comments that you say this isn't terribly expensive but I'd like to offer a cheaper alternative to anyone for whom $50 or so, for a seldom-used tool, might be a bit much. Behold:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o6IYu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o6IYu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hex nut and bolt&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, those are just a common nut and bolt. But using the same method outlined &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1716/how-can-you-make-a-regular-screw-into-a-self-tapping-screw/1735#1735&quot;&gt;in this Answer&lt;/a&gt; the bolt can easily be turned into a tap, and a very good one at that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the nut you do the same basic thing, you file a groove (or more than one) in the threads to make cutting edges and provide clearance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TUDkK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TUDkK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Nut converted to die&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As important or more than when using a commercial tool-steel tap and die, lubricating the threads with oil when doing the cutting is highly beneficial. A range of oils have been used for this in the past but mineral oil/liquid paraffin is probably the most common choice these days. Also as with a commercial tap and die it's important to reverse direction periodically to clear swarf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A slightly more involved method is shown step by step in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wkfinetools.com/contrib/dAssis/art/TapDie/TapDie-01.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; on WK Fine Tools. A basic wooden holder for the filed nut as shown in this (taken from &lt;em&gt;Le Menuisier Ébéniste&lt;/em&gt; by Roubo) could be advisable, but is not absolutely essential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More general information and some useful details on tapping and threading wood in this piece from Christopher Schwarz, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/tapping-threads-without-tapping-out&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tapping Threads Without Tapping Out&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a ## Heading ##bonus for those inclined towards cheap solutions...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Make your own dowels&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dowels can quite easily be made using various homemade and commercial tools and setups. Other than the potential cost savings it allows you to make your threaded rods from species which aren't offered commercially as dowels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One basic technique is an old method, and involves bashing square wood through round holes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4ETkv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4ETkv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dowels the Colonial way&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photos showing the method in use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4m9aR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4m9aR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dowel plates in use&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: shop-made plate in the top image, commercial plate below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the same basic lines but with a modern twist (pardon the pun) &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/14368&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this method&lt;/a&gt; demonstrated on Lumberjocks by user stefang, using holes drilled at 45° through a mild-steel plate and a drill to spin the workpiece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dowels can also be spun through a jig/tool that cuts them round:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pcYy4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pcYy4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dowel-cutting setups&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More reading on &lt;a href=&quot;http://woodgears.ca/dowel/making.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the pencil sharpener method&lt;/a&gt;, on Woodgears.  And these two entries on Lumberjocks, &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/GnarlyErik/blog/35575&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;one&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/projects/80545&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;two&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also various router-based methods that are worth investigating for those who own a router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T11:23:30.720" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2646" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2653" CreationDate="2015-10-28T13:05:33.300" Score="6" ViewCount="3429" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a table saw recently and it's the most terrifying tool I own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to cut a 5/8&quot; dado across four 5&quot; wide boards in identical positions, about 14&quot; from the reference edge. I have a 1/2&quot; stack so I'll have to make two passes. What is the safest technique for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't feel good to use the fence, one at a time, because it's difficult to keep the board flush to it given only 5&quot; contacts the fence with 14&quot; distance to the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could use the mitre slide but I'm not sure how to get consistent position for multiple cuts. Is there some magic jig I can cut or a good marking / measuring technique for the mitre slide? (I am thinking, maybe I can make an &quot;L&quot;, laying on its side, with the long edge mounted to the slide and the short edge 14&quot; from the blade, but I foresee problems keeping the angles true and the short edge sturdy; I could make it out of scrap steel maybe but now it seems like a whole project of its own.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I somehow load all the boards at once? I was thinking maybe I could temporarily mount them all to a piece of plywood or something then run the whole thing along the fence, maybe once to make all the edges flush then flip it around to cut the dados. But I don't want to put screw or brad holes in the boards and I'm not sure how to mount them otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I safely and accurately make these cuts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2015-10-28T15:16:24.653" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T16:52:24.087" Title="Table saw technique, cross-cut dados on multiple boards" Tags="|technique|safety|table-saw|dado|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2647" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-28T13:32:20.267" Score="21" ViewCount="9034" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a dining table and it was claimed that the table top was made from reclaimed wood from a 160-year-old Douglas Fir log.  The table top is still seeping out sap.  Is this even possible from something that is 160 years old? I think I'm being ripped off here.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to hear from your experience/expertise please!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-11-02T14:45:11.347" LastActivityDate="2021-11-29T02:33:51.603" Title="Can 160-year-old wood still have sap?" Tags="|wood|reclaimed-wood|sap|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2646" CreationDate="2015-10-28T13:51:04.677" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct to not want to use the fence alone for these cuts. That has a high probability of ending very badly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The miter gauge that came with your saw should be adequate (use it in conjunction with the fence for accuracy), but since it sounds like you're not comfortable with that, here's some alternatives:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Build a miter saw sled. Lots of versions of this on the interwebs, but at a minimum, it's a sheet of something that runs in your saw's tracks that has a perpendicular fence. It can be as simple or as snazzy as you'd like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With over-long stock, attach them to ply or whatever and run them through as a group. Cut off the ends that have screw holes through them and you'll be left with what you want. The hard part of this plan is attaching them securely enough that they don't twist or rack while on the ply. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's right to be wary of the tablesaw, but practice will improve that. If it's a huge dado, take it in progressive heights, so you're not cutting everything at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T13:51:04.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2646" CreationDate="2015-10-28T13:52:42.950" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 2 points of accuracy you'll want: keep the piece moving at the same orientation and get the correct distance from the reference edge to the blade. The second is easy, just set the fence tot he correct position and you are set for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are uncomfortable using the fence as a stop, then you can clamp a bit of wood to the fence so the back end does not reach the front of the saw and use that as the reference surface. By the time the piece is cut it won't be rubbing against the block any more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the orientation then you can use the miter slide and the fence in combination: The miter slide will prevent the piece from turning and the fence will be the point of reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make a sled that runs in the T slot next to the blade and put the workpiece on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sled can consist of just a piece of plywood with a wooden runner screwed in the bottom. Perhaps with a few dowels that you can use as a backstop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then because it will be the sled doing the sliding and it will be at a fixed angle, the workpiece can be kept at a consistent angle much easier. Again use the fence as a side stop for the 14&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2015-10-28T16:52:24.087" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T16:52:24.087" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2646" CreationDate="2015-10-28T13:59:09.680" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will assume that you do not have a dado stack for this? They are a set of blades designed to cut a dado in one pass. That way using a fence and a mitre sled (most table saws come provided with one.). It does get easier and safer than that though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Some general safety tips apply&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make sure that if the board is longer than your table saw that it is supported.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tips discussed in all the answer here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/21/how-do-i-prevent-dangerous-kickback-on-a-table-saw&quot;&gt;How do I prevent dangerous kickback on a table saw?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep your hands away from the blade and use push blocks or push sticks if you are not using a sled.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/table-saw+safety&quot;&gt;Any other table saw safety Q&amp;amp;A we have here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Blade Choice&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To save yourself from having to clean the dado (at least to minimize it) use a flat tip blade. See more: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1236/how-do-i-look-for-a-table-saw-blade-with-non-angled-teeth/1246#1246&quot;&gt;How do I look for a table saw blade with non-angled teeth?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Jig it up&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Crosscut sled&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A basic cross cut sled (something every table saw owner should have) would make this process easier. A wonderful, must watch video about making one from come from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UbG-n--LFgQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;WNWoodworks&lt;/a&gt;; the youtube channel of William Ng. These are discussed here in greater length: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/566/what-is-a-crosscut-sled-used-for&quot;&gt;What is a crosscut sled used for?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aVwxM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aVwxM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Crosscut Sled&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/39002/build-a-super-precise-tablesaw-crosscut-sled&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;finewoodworking.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still would need to have stops on the sled&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ftsFq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ftsFq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sled Stops&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homeconstructionimprovement.com/how-to-make-a-tablesaw-crosscut-sled/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;homeconstructionimprovement.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can just use something as simple as a block as a stop. As long as you measure properly you can make the same cut on multiple board. After each board is cut then adjust the stop and cut all the boards again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Box Joint&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of the tutorials you would see for box joint jigs would work in this area as well. This particular one by &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodgears.ca/box_joint/no_dado.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Matthias Wandel at WoodGears&lt;/a&gt;, while not sized for your project, shows that you can make precise and progressive cuts one pass at a time. These jigs have a more controlled and automated way to control the &amp;quot;stop&amp;quot; mentioned earlier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T14:13:06.823" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2647" CreationDate="2015-10-28T14:23:19.250" Score="20" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The table top is still sipping out sap. Is this even possible from something that is 160 years old?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure, it's definitely possible.  Sap doesn't just disappear from a piece of wood because it's old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One might think that over that long of a time, the sap should have dried up a little.  If it was kept in a cooler place and brought into somewhere warmer, the sap could start to flow again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;made from reclaimed-wood from a 160 years old Douglas Fir log&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would do to &quot;prove&quot; this claim is look closer at the wood itself.  If it's supposedly a 160-year-old log, it &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be old-growth.  If it's old growth Douglas fir, the growth rings should be much closer together than what you would see in new-growth wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you go to your local big-box lumberyard and look at a 2x4 stud, you will see very large gaps between the early- and late-wood rings, sometimes as large as 1/4&quot;!  This is because new-growth trees tend to grow very fast in their mostly treeless canopy (assuming the area they grew was clear cut), whereas old-growth trees grew very slowly in a canopy choked by other, larger trees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="927" LastEditDate="2015-10-29T14:51:38.643" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T14:51:38.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2647" CreationDate="2015-10-28T14:48:56.463" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be the 'reclaimed bit.  By reclaiming the wood, one possibility is that they had to resaw the timbers to boards.  It might have started out as 8&quot; x 8&quot; timber or some other large dimension.  This is actually quite likely, and the 'new' cuts are now exposing new wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even a significant planning to straighten and clean the boards could cause a similar reaction.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So just by leaking sap does not preclude it from being old wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I can't guarantee that it IS 160 yo either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T14:48:56.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2646" CreationDate="2015-10-28T14:49:47.113" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I bought a table saw recently and it's the most terrifying tool I own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a beginner, that is the right attitude. I note that the most dangerous time will be when you are no longer a beginner but not yet an expert; that's when people make careless mistakes. I try to remind myself frequently that my table saw is trying to kill me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It doesn't feel good to use the fence, one at a time, because it's difficult to keep the board flush to it given only 5&quot; contacts the fence with 14&quot; distance to the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Correct. This is a recipe for the work rotating and kicking back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And you never want to use the miter slide and fence in combination because again, the work can bind against the fence and rotate away from the miter. However there is a way to safely use the fence as a reference; more on that in a minute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I could use the mitre slide but I'm not sure how to get consistent position for multiple cuts. Is there some magic jig I can cut or a good marking / measuring technique for the mitre slide? (I am thinking, maybe I can make an &quot;L&quot;, laying on its side, with the long edge mounted to the slide and the short edge 14&quot; from the blade, but I foresee problems keeping the angles true and the short edge sturdy; I could make it out of scrap steel maybe but now it seems like a whole project of its own.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to go to that kind of trouble then it is better as others have noted to simply make a sled. I use my sled for all but the most trivial cross cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can I somehow load all the boards at once? I was thinking maybe I could temporarily mount them all to a piece of plywood or something then run the whole thing along the fence, maybe once to make all the edges flush then flip it around to cut the dados. But I don't want to put screw or brad holes in the boards and I'm not sure how to mount them otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not worth it. It'll be hard to keep everything together and awkward to try to cut so much at once. And this is not the last time you will have to solve this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How can I safely and accurately make these cuts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cheap solution is to use the fence as a reference but &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; keep the work against the fence while it is being cut. You reference the fence &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; the work engages the blade like this: (Though I personally would be inclined to use the other miter slot.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0z1BG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0z1BG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clamp a scrap &lt;em&gt;known-to-be-flat&lt;/em&gt; board to the start of the fence, set the fence-with-board as your reference, and push the work against the board before you start moving the miter. When the work engages the blade it is past the board, and so there is no chance that the fence will bind against the work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But again, building a sled pays big dividends. Repeatable, accurate cuts are easier, and you can build as many safety devices into a sled as you desire. My sled is covered with points where clamps can be added to hold work in place. Hands are terrible clamps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="103" LastEditorUserId="103" LastEditDate="2015-10-28T14:56:00.593" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T14:56:00.593" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2654" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2664" CreationDate="2015-10-28T22:03:49.723" Score="4" ViewCount="4606" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been collecting a bunch of wood from the beach near our house lately with the hopes of making some neat artwork or possibly furniture.  Are there any special precautions, techniques, or considerations I need to keep in mind when working with driftwood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1319" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T12:21:53.460" Title="Techniques for Working with Driftwood" Tags="|technique|wood|green-wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2655" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-28T22:48:15.600" Score="6" ViewCount="11450" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a coffee table out of pallet wood. If I had to guess there is at least 3 different kinds of wood here and I don't know for sure which they are. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The white you see is home made chalk paint made from drywall mud and white acrylic paint. It had about 2 coats of paint. To protect and finish I choose polycrylic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Somehow one of the blocks stained the paint yellow. I saw one other block like this but it was not as defined. It reminds me of painting the walls of a former smokers house where the tar seeps through the paint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gbO5W.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gbO5W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Foot of my coffee table&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am still new at finishing and I should have realized that I was applying too much polycrylic as you can see the dripping. While that was bad it did show me something. If you see on the right hand side of the block the yellow colour does not go all the way up the block. There is a drip there that goes from white to yellow. That tells me the finish was not the source of the issue? Perhaps just exacerbated it? Most of the wood pictured has a coat of polycrylic on it and that is not a test coat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started looking more for the colour and I found one more block that would have been from the same pallet that had a little yellowing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everyone of those blocks you see had pith so it should be a fair amount of heartwood. Also the spots where you see a little bare wood was done on purpose prior to polycrylicing (If that is a verb). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why did the finish turn yellow in those few places? I think it has something to do with the wood itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside I just sanded down the finish and most of the paint in that area. The table was meant to look distressed anyway. Still curious what happened so I can try to prevent it or at least be aware of it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-10-28T22:55:35.797" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T17:51:58.963" Title="Why is this yellow colour coming through the finish" Tags="|finishing|furniture|wood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2657" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2658" CreationDate="2015-10-28T23:54:34.350" Score="4" ViewCount="6944" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used the router bit in the following setup and moved the work piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note this picture is faked but it gives a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YQLg1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YQLg1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that the resistance was enormous and if I forced it, it just chewed the wood up. It kind of destroyed my idea of how a router should be and I don't have an opportunity to try a real router before buying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd still like to buy a router but I'm no longer confident that it would cut a lengthwise slot in a piece of timber such as shown in the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How come the router bit didn't work in the power drill?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is so special about a router that would make it work better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should it do the job smoothly, cleanly and quickly with little pressure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a lot of difference in the effectiveness of a router by price? Why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1320" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-10-29T00:23:45.860" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T17:08:35.330" Title="I was thinking of buying a router. I tried a router bit in my power drill. It didn't work" Tags="|power-tools|router|router-bit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2657" CreationDate="2015-10-29T00:16:42.363" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;A router spins at around 20,000 RPM. Your drill, at top speed, is closer to 300 RPM. &lt;em&gt;Very&lt;/em&gt; different animal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2015-10-29T14:25:22.587" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T14:25:22.587" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2659" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2661" CreationDate="2015-10-29T02:15:01.350" Score="8" ViewCount="12772" Body="&lt;p&gt;In particular the fence.  The other day I got my sled nicely calibrated and on final screw up it lost its accuracy.  I was only using a 18 mm MDF strip for the fence.  I was worried it's flex was the problem.  So can anyone tell me.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The best wood to use for the sled.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The best wood for the  fence if different &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Minimum recommended thicknesses for the fence. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1323" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-10-29T02:53:05.683" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T09:15:30.853" Title="Best wood for table saw cross cut jig" Tags="|table-saw|wood-selection|jig|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2659" CreationDate="2015-10-29T03:29:08.670" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use MDF for the base, and either MDF, Ply or Tri for the fence (depending on what's lying around).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think it hugely matters what wood you use, but MDF is nice and flat and smooth - a decent quality plywood would probably be the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;18m is plenty thick enough - you shouldn't see much flexing. Particularly once you've managed to get it glued to the base. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What technique are you using when you try and square it? I like to glue, screw in one end, nail at the other, quickly make a few cuts to test (and adjust the nail end via hammer). Once it's square, leave it for 30 minutes to dry and then drive in a few more screws. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="282" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T03:29:08.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2659" CreationDate="2015-10-29T05:23:08.130" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is probably largely personal preference, but I like to use baltic birch plywood for my jigs -- including my cross cut sled. Like MDF, plywood is dimensionally stable. But I find plywood holds up better over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T05:23:08.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2659" CreationDate="2015-10-29T09:15:30.853" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a rule there is no one best material for anything, although for jigs it's almost universal that plywood or MDF are recommended these days for the major elements, but they are not the only options. Also note that not all ply or MDF is created equal, and the storage conditions where they were bought is a factor too (whether stored dead flat being the main one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall I would prefer to use plywood for something like this myself for a couple of reasons, primarily because a mid-range ply is stronger and more resilient than MDF. But that said, many many jigs for table saws have been successfully made from MDF and given reliable service for years after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;on final screw up it lost its accuracy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder if you weren't using clamps here (or enough of them) to hold the fence firmly in position while the screws were being driver. An additional aid worth considering is a couple of square clamping guides of one kind or another, e.g. something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IhT8O.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IhT8O.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Right-angle clamping jig&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I was only using a 18 mm MDF strip for the fence. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That would usually be plenty thick enough. The overall size of the piece could have been a factor, and/or the quality of the MDF. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If in doubt laminate it with something to stiffen it up (doesn't have to be another piece of the 18mm MDF, but you can't go &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; stiff here and the added bulk of another 18mm of thickness on the fence wouldn't normally be a hindrance during use).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your Comment underneath the main Question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I wondered about gluing it. I just wondered if I would be quick enough to adjust it before it set&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A tip to help with this is to drill clearance and pilot holes for your positioning screws for the fence, with the fence firmly clamped in place and checked for accuracy, then drive all screws home, check for square and then withdraw the screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will allow for a very quick (and hopefully still very accurate) fixing of the fence once glue has been applied, with little if any problem of it moving out of alignment due to the lubrication provided by the glue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case it helps, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2308/how-can-i-cut-a-90-degree-angle-with-a-table-saw/2313#2313&quot;&gt;a previous Answer&lt;/a&gt; has some details on how you might construct one of these, requiring minimal work on keeping things square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T09:15:30.853" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2655" CreationDate="2015-10-29T09:34:52.600" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;All woods have what are called in the trade &lt;em&gt;extractives&lt;/em&gt; and these tend to be soluble compounds which can be liberated from the wood if it gets wet. You can see this as a &quot;coffee stain effect&quot; when you accidentally drip water or another solvent onto the surface of bare wood and it is allowed to dry on its own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's usually not a factor when finishing because the wood gets wet fairly uniformly and not sopping wet as when a pool of liquid sits on the wood's surface for some time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possible cause in this case (or additional cause) is that pallet wood is very much an unknown quantity, we only guess what it's been through when we snag a pallet and break it down for the wood; so this could be something in the wood that wasn't there originally, or a consequence of the weathering the surface endured while it was in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T09:34:52.600" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2654" CreationDate="2015-10-29T10:04:14.580" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is quite a broad question. I've use wood I've picked up beachcombing many times, all of which could be classed generically as &quot;driftwood&quot; but it's far from uniform. Some was originally branches and other random bits of trees, some milled wood that got into the ocean somehow. On top of that the amount of time the wood spent in the water made a huge difference in its condition. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result, I've picked up pieces that don't appear to be much different to what I might expect if they'd never been in the ocean but only exposed to some rain and sunlight. Other stuff has broken down, from a little to a lot and the worst of it is soft enough you can break it apart with your fingers as most people have experienced once or twice when handling washed up wood on a beach. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So bottom line I don't think there are any specific techniques for dealing with driftwood, but rather for dealing with the wood in whatever condition it happens to be in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The very soft stuff I don't bother with myself, although I see the potential for decorative pieces. This can be used without any modification other than maybe a wash down once you get it home so that it's a bit cleaner. It can also be stabilized or strengthened if desired using various commercial products (various &lt;em&gt;wood hardeners&lt;/em&gt;) designed to introduce resins into the weakened wood structure which then harden and reinforce the soft, or 'punky', wood. For smaller pieces in particular they can have resin forcefully introduced (search term: &lt;em&gt;resin impregnation&lt;/em&gt;), using vacuum or pressure. This can result in even very soft wood becoming hard and strong, but it changes its appearance quite significantly, to the point that some people think it looks like plastic or resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same deal with glueing the wood or using mechanical fasteners. With wood in reasonably firm shape it won't react too differently to fresh wood, with very soft wood you often can't use conventional glue or screws because neither has anything strong to grab onto.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of adding a protective coating to a project made from driftwood, some people are OK with using oils, shellac or regular varnish to finish the wood, accepting the colour change that occurs. Others prefer to keep the wood looking as much like it did on the beach, in which case a &quot;water white&quot; finish is called for; a common choice here is a matt waterbased poly. With luck the piece can look virtually unchanged while having a coating that protects it from getting grubby from dust and light handling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T10:04:14.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2655" CreationDate="2015-10-29T13:51:21.487" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why did the finish turn yellow in those few places? I think it has something to do with the wood itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I actually just had a similar conversation with my dad on this topic.  He's a polymer chemist and works for a paint company.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you might be experiencing is &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/ask-sherwin-williams/problem-solver/dirt-stain-discoloration/tannin-staining/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tannin staining&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; from the wood underneath the paint.  All wood has some level of tannin.  With your pallet wood, you have a real crap-shoot with what wood you actually have, so its tannin content could be quite high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you need is a paint with a tannin blocker in it.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kilz.com/products/primer/kilz-premium&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kilz Premium&lt;/a&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; is currently the best primer on the market for this purpose, and it has a special shellac-based polymer in it that inhibits tannin staining.  Shellac is the best tannin-blocking material known to man&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; (thus far).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're set on using your homemade chalk paint, you might consider applying a seal coat of shellac beneath the paint to help mitigate the tannin staining.  Then lightly scuff the shellac coat with fine sandpaper or steel wool so the paint adheres better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Full disclosure, my dad does &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; work for Kilz.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; See page 5 of &lt;a href=&quot;http://digitalcommons.calpoly.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1508&amp;amp;context=theses&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this study&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-10-29T17:51:58.963" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T17:51:58.963" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2666" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2667" CreationDate="2015-10-30T04:19:56.160" Score="6" ViewCount="3226" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently finished most of a practice project (a large lap desk). It looks like this so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RRl4C.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RRl4C.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made a ton of mistakes but the only one I can't figure out how to fix next time is the frame around it, specifically gaps in the miter joints because the sides were not the correct length (not because the angles were significantly off). I ended up with massive gaps on two of the corners:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aQGxg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aQGxg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The piece consists of a 3/4&quot; thick panel made of joined boards, surrounded by a rabbeted, chamfered, mitered frame cut from 2x2s. The cross section of the frame looks like this, the green marks indicate the face that needs to match the length of the panel edges (I joined the green edge to the panel with biscuits):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KSDel.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KSDel.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aunYO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aunYO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process I went through to fit this frame was awful:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut frame pieces and make miter cut in one end of each.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place against panel lining up mitered end then pencil mark green and purple edges on the other end.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eyeballed mark against a marking I made on the table saw table where the edge of the blade was. Difficult because mark did not extend down to table (wide bottom was in way, and flipping edge upside down made mark impossible to see). Made cuts. Verified that table saw probably cut through green edge reference mark.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dry fit, pieces were too long.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried to trim on table saw. Pieces became too short.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Got frustrated, cut about 1/8&quot; off two sides of panel, re-routed chamfers. Used table saw fence to make short sides exactly 13.75&quot; long. Long sides exceeded capacity of table saw. Used square to draw perpendicular lines on long edges roughly 1/16&quot; from old edge, clamped a straight board to panel, used pattern bit in router to trim.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measured 13.75&quot; from cut on each short edge of frame. Made new mark. Dry fit long edges, made new marks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use rafter square 45 degree edge, referenced to mark on green edge, to make cut markings on inner edges. Difficult because of gap between top and inner edge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Made a &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tDCte.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;thing screwed to my miter slide&lt;/a&gt; so I could see where the edge was on the table saw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clamped frame to slide lining up markings with edge of thing then made cuts. This was somewhat hampered by the chamfers already cut on the frame edges. I used one existing mitered cut and picked the one to mark and adjust in a way that made it so I didn't have to keep changing the angle on my slide.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Verified that table saw probably cut through green edge reference mark.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Long edges were too short.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gave up, glued everything together and crammed the corners full of grain filler. Gaps were too big to put glue on the mitered edges so I hacked it with &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gmG0V.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;half a biscuit and a chisel&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my question is: How could I have constructed this frame with no gaps? How can I create a tight mitered frame around a &lt;em&gt;fixed size, pre-existing&lt;/em&gt; object?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1463/perfect-miters-every-time&quot;&gt;Perfect miters every time&lt;/a&gt; and watched &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rc4ACVofxyQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a video linked from there&lt;/a&gt;. I also read &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-Cure-for-Miter-Joint-quotGaposisquot/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this trick&lt;/a&gt;. But I can't understand how I can apply any of this, because it all seems to detail how to get the angles right &lt;em&gt;without caring about the final size of the frame&lt;/em&gt;. I also am having trouble understanding how the sleds described could be used here - I think I accomplished about the same thing in step 9 above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that the biggest challenge here is that my reference edge is actually in the center of my frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not know what good marking / measuring / cutting techniques are required to make this happen. I am frustrated because I keep trying to research this and hitting dead ends where people care about the precise angle but don't mind shrinking their frames by 1/16&quot; or so in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T07:39:46.133" Title="Cutting tight miter joints for a frame around an existing object" Tags="|technique|measurement|miter-joint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2666" CreationDate="2015-10-30T07:39:46.133" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How can I create a tight mitered frame around a fixed size, pre-existing object?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK I'll tackle this one first as it's actually most important: in this context you don't want to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To pass on some sage advice I read only recently: &lt;em&gt;new woodworkers should resist the urge to picture-frame a panel made from solid wood [of any significant size]&lt;/em&gt;. Just to add a little bit of my own, &lt;em&gt;unless you've made provision for movement across the grain&lt;/em&gt;, such as is commonly done on frame-and-panel cabinet doors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason is that solid wood will always expand and contract across the grain, and even where the movement is modest (smaller panels, certain species) it will still exert enormous forces on the frame if it's constrained, and try to push the mitres apart. It is very likely to succeed. If the mitred frame is somehow built stoutly enough that the joints can resist the expansion the panel itself would suffer, as the pressure needs to be relieved somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How could I have constructed this frame with no gaps? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's really very simple at heart, it's just that we get confused by conflicting or competing tips that don't always go together. The basic thing is not to work by measurement but rather use the piece you're framing to directly mark your frame members — same basic way drawers should be fitted to the openings they are being built for, allowing for vagaries in the way the piece &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt;, not the way it &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So let's say you start with a single long piece of moulding. Cut two long and two short frame members clearly over-long, then piece one corner together, fit it to the thing you're framing and work out from there. With the mitre held &lt;em&gt;firmly&lt;/em&gt; closed and tightly against the first corner mark your short member and your long member directly from the short and long sides of the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you get to cutting, your step 5 is the thing to avoid obviously! Even 0.5mm too short is a big deal (about 1/50&quot;). So saw carefully &lt;em&gt;outside of the mark&lt;/em&gt;. You're not trying to get this perfect in one go, it's OK to have one or both pieces a tad too long after cutting; you can always trim off more wood, much more difficult to put it back once it's been removed :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The traditional way of incrementally trimming mitres is still one of the best methods, and that's with a very sharp hand plane and a mitre shooting board:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/us6vR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/us6vR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mitre shooting board&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Source: Wood Magazine]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Planing removes hundredths of a millimetre (thousands of an inch) per cut so the trimming is in tiny increments. Very difficult to overshoot your mark removing this little material at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So let's assume your pieces were overlong at first test fit, now you pare on the shooting board, test, pare, test, pare. Rinse and repeat until the fit is perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You follow the same basic procedure for the next long frame member, working out from the second perfect mitre joint that you just created. The final short frame member can be tricky, but remember you just need to sneak up on the fit. Start from one corner and trim only the other end until as you check the fit the mitre is now dead-on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T07:39:46.133" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="265" CreationDate="2015-10-30T09:20:59.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try to adjust the blade to cut in line with the miter slots, then adjust the fence to the miter slot.... probably not going to happen... if not, then adjust the fence for the drift of the blade.&#xA;Personally, for anything thicker than 3/4 I don't use the fence at all. Just mark a line and cut to it. If I had a big 18&quot; bandsaw I would consider going to the lengths of adjusting everything out very well but for now, cutting to a line is pretty much just as fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1330" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2017-07-03T13:28:22.877" LastActivityDate="2017-07-03T13:28:22.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2669" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-31T00:00:42.363" Score="3" ViewCount="438" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to cut a dado into the surface of my crosscut sled to perfectly hold a T-track flush to the surface.  The sled is made out of 18mm-thick MDF.  I would only be leaving behind 3mm thickness of wood to allow a dado deep enough for the T-track.  Is that enough?  I will glue in the track to help strengthen it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1323" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-10-31T15:33:05.533" LastActivityDate="2015-10-31T15:33:05.533" Title="Dado for T-track cross cut sled" Tags="|table-saw|jig|dado|mdf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2669" CreationDate="2015-10-31T15:31:33.820" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The sled is made out of 18mm-thick MDF. I would only be leaving behind 3mm thickness of wood to allow a dado deep enough for the T-track. Is that enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My brain works in Imperial units, so I'm going to convert.  Three millimeters is about equal to 1/8&quot;.  MDF is not a particularly strong material in bending, especially not with that thin of a section.  You will probably find that it will want to snap off at the thinned section when you put any kind of load on it.  Personally, I do not think that this is enough thickness for your sled to stand up to the use expected of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I will glue in the track to help strengthen it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This won't really have the effect you desire.  Wood glue will not bond to aluminum all that well since it's designed to adhere porous surfaces together.  It may help keep the T-track in place, but it will do nothing to strengthen the section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, if you are dead set on using the 18mm-thick MDF, I would suggest using a five-minute epoxy to glue the T-track in place.  Scuff the surface of the T-track first so that the epoxy adheres better.  This way, you have a positive bond between the T-track and the MDF, and the T-track will actually strengthen the weakness in the MDF dado.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, I would avoid using 18mm-thick MDF for this application.  If you can, double the thickness by gluing two sheets together.  Otherwise, I would use 3/4&quot; (19mm) or thicker Baltic birch plywood.  The plies of the plywood are pretty strong in bending and will stand up better than MDF at that thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2015-10-31T15:31:33.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2673" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2675" CreationDate="2015-11-01T00:07:39.287" Score="10" ViewCount="12206" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I apply a smooth coat of dewaxed shellac without a sprayer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether I use a brush, sponge, or rag, I always end up with tiny raised beads of shellac at the borders of my previous brush stroke. This mostly happens between dips into the can. Trying to fade them down with brush strokes makes it worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What am I doing wrong and how can I avoid this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's difficult to sand when it dries and in all my sanding attempts I still end up reducing the beads to smooth but visible rough lines. I can cover with another coat but then I am back to square one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's obvious that it shouldn't be overbrushed, it even says that on the can. It tacks up so quickly that I have problems just keeping it smooth across brush strokes. I have tried thin coats, thick coats, fading the brush strokes, slopping it on and hoping it levels, waiting a bit and trying to buff it, quick second coat while still wet, all with poor results. I even tried just dumping it out of the can and quickly spreading it around (which sort of solved the problem but made some messy new problems...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a good bit of experience with paint and everything in my bag of tricks is failing me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The effect is much less pronounced for the first coat on a soft unfinished material, because it soaks in quickly, esp. things like poplar and MDF. But for the most part it always happens no matter where the coat is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2015-11-01T03:04:29.903" LastActivityDate="2019-02-21T17:59:36.703" Title="Applying shellac smoothly without a sprayer" Tags="|finishing|technique|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2673" CreationDate="2015-11-01T01:39:55.177" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am starting to become very fond of padding on finishes, using a handfull of cotton balls wrapped in a nylon sock. It carries a lot of finish and applies it smoothly. Thin layers, but that means they dry faster, so it works well. And almost no brushmarks or bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also seen the &quot;pads&quot; sold for paint edging used for clear finishes. Thease sre foam, but have a fuzzy fiber (microfiber?) surface. Again they hold a fair amount of finish and distribute it evenly, without brushmarks recognizable as such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As another answer pointed out, sanding is debatable....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2015-11-03T03:58:04.323" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T03:58:04.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2673" CreationDate="2015-11-01T09:39:48.183" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This mostly happens between dips into the can. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's your problem right there. Actually there are three problems here: working directly from the can, the cut and the brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally you don't apply any finish by dipping the applicator into the original container. Yes it is extremely commonly done, but it's still bad practice. This is just about OK for waterbased paints, just about, I wouldn't recommend it literally for &lt;em&gt;anything&lt;/em&gt; else. It's an especially poor idea for any fast-drying finish, particularly those with a fast-evaporating solvent like shellac has — at the end of a long working session what is in the can is not the same as when you started, it is now more concentrated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, just because shellac comes in a can readymade doesn't mean that's the ideal dilution to apply (same thing with varnish, which is regularly diluted to make it more user-friendly). In fact pre-mixed shellac can be quite a strong 'cut', the traditional term for the dilution rates of shellac, and it can benefit greatly in being diluted to a less-concentrated version for application, a 'lighter cut'. I don't know how universal this is but some common tinned shellacs are sold as a 3lb cut (very strong), and it's frequently preferred to apply it as a 1lb cut, requiring that you thin the commercial product quite significantly which obviously can't or shouldn't be done in the original container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thirdly, shellac can be applied by brush and for certain jobs this is the right way to apply it. But it's not the ideal application tool for shellac when tackling large, flat surfaces. Shellac is the classic finish for being applied by a traditional method, commonly known today as French polishing. Now this is one of those OCD/I-have-way-too-much-time-on-my-hands techniques, but it was developed to give stellar results and it still can. It's just loads of work. Doing this full-on is not something for the faint at heart, a proper French polishing job requires hours of effort over at least a few days; the results are considered worth it by some, but to be clear I am not recommending it because shellac is no longer the only way to get that sort of look. Which leads me to...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why use shellac in the first place?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a way shellac is now obsolete. What it was relied upon for historically is no longer the case — it was the best finish available for fine furniture then, that's no longer true. If the finishers of the early 19th century had had access to sprayguns and lacquer that's what they would have used and &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; is what would now be considered &quot;the most beautiful finish in the world&quot; by traditionalists and connoisseurs, not shellac.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not anti-shellac, I like it myself and use it regularly where I value its fast drying time. But it can be a troublesome finish to work with (other readers see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2629/applying-shellac-in-high-humidity/&quot;&gt;this previous Question&lt;/a&gt; on issues related to shellac and humidity), it is tricky to apply to a high standard on larger pieces, but perhaps most importantly it provides relatively poor protection to furniture: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it is hard, but a little &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; hard (it is brittle);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it is very prone to damage from water (you get clouding, and note it can be almost instantaneous);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and of course any alcoholic beverage will soften or dissolve the finish depending on the strength of the drink, leaving visible ripples or raised rings in the finish once it dries. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of those are issues with even an inexpensive varnish as available in any hardware store! These are scratch-resistant but not brittle, almost totally waterproof and alcohol doesn't bother them. And varnish is far easier to apply to a high standard, in large part because of the relatively slow drying time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my advice would be to use shellac for jobs where it is a useful &lt;em&gt;part&lt;/em&gt; of a finishing regimen (e.g. acting as an intermediate coat between dissimilar finishes, as sanding sealer), or when used alone primarily for smaller jobs where its very fast drying time isn't so hard to deal with. This is one reason shellac is still an excellent choice of finish for woodturners and it's why I use it as a final finish on tool handles where I want a glossy finish, such as the handles on these files I restored:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UkJ96.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UkJ96.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shellacked file handles&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2015-11-01T09:39:48.183" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2676" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-01T14:13:22.077" Score="1" ViewCount="36" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took down an old mahogany deck and saved the wood for other projects.  I have made a bike rack out of the reclaimed wood and am considering making a picnic table but I am finding it difficult to remove the old rusty screws.  Many are stripped and tend to break.  i do not want to ruin my equipment by hitting a screw when cutting/finishing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1336" LastActivityDate="2015-11-01T14:13:22.077" Title="what is the best way to remove rusty screws from old deck boards?" Tags="|reclaimed-wood|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-11-01T21:37:03.300" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2677" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-01T15:31:08.523" Score="3" ViewCount="4498" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built a dining table and stained with my usual product - low VOC minwax in Provincial. I let the stain sit for 12 hours, but the humidity was really high and  I don't think it fully dried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I applied a coat of Varathane the next morning, and it beaded up. Now, it's super tacky and when I scrape my fingernail over the wood, the stain squeezes up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I have to strip the whole top? If so, any product recommendations? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1337" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T09:34:02.967" Title="Varathane applied over oil-based stain before it cured - fixes?" Tags="|finishing|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2678" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2679" CreationDate="2015-11-01T16:04:24.817" Score="3" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on making a rocking tractor from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cherrytreetoys.com/Rocking-Tractor-Plan-P5018.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cherry Tree plans&lt;/a&gt; , which call for #1, #3, #57, and #324 wood pegs. Does anybody know what these are exactly? The wood toy parts supplier web pages I've looked at don't use numerical notations like this for pegs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, I know I could make a guess from looking at the plans and pictures, or I could just order the parts kit that Cherry Tree sells, but I'm curious where these numbers are coming from, so if anybody could clue me in, I'd really appreciate it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2015-11-01T18:21:34.143" Title="What are #1, #3, #324 Wood Pegs" Tags="|terminology|toy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2678" CreationDate="2015-11-01T18:21:34.143" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are part numbers from Cherry Tree.  When you go to their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cherrytreetoys.com/Search.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;search page&lt;/a&gt; notice that each item has a part number showing in plain black text.  Most of the numbers look kind of like they come from a master list of catalog parts, but some are real simple like 1, 3 or 324.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a search for &quot;peg&quot; and found part 1, a &quot;multi use peg&quot; on page 9; part 3, &quot;wood axle peg&quot; on page 15; 324 &quot;wooden axle peg&quot; on page 17.  I did not look for part 57 and will leave that up to you to find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2015-11-01T18:21:34.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2680" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-01T19:14:39.007" Score="11" ViewCount="4439" Body="&lt;p&gt;My table saw doesn't have a depth gauge. What is the quickest way to set it to a precise depth for e.g. cutting slots or dados or clean looking rabbets?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried using calipers to measure the blade height but it is difficult to make sure the blade is rotated so a tooth is at peak height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently the way I am doing it is eyeball it, test cut through scrap, measure actual depth with calipers, adjustment by eye, repeat until I'm close enough. It isn't exact and it is very inconvenient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-11-02T02:42:57.297" LastActivityDate="2018-01-23T13:42:41.250" Title="Setting precise depth on a table saw with no depth gauge" Tags="|technique|table-saw|measurement|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2681" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-01T21:03:48.343" Score="4" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am strongly considering purchasing an entry-level HVLP sprayer after seeing many people rave about how amazing of a finish you get when you spray vs. brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm curious whether there are certain finishes that are incompatible with spraying due to any number of factors.  Essentially, if I am starting out with a brand new HVLP spray gun, how do I not ruin it the first day?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T04:08:55.773" Title="What finishes are compatible with HVLP spraying?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2682" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-01T21:08:25.300" Score="7" ViewCount="439" Body="&lt;p&gt;So the other day, I found a wonderful set of large knob-shaped wall hangers from Sheffield home at T.J Maxx, so I bought them all. But when I got home, I realized that there was no hardware included with the knobs and no directions on how to install the hangers. Does anyone out there know how these particular knobs should be installed and the hardware to use?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZHPPk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZHPPk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture of the Knob Hangers&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3xDbp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3xDbp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom view of the Knob Hangers &amp;amp; a 5&amp;quot;x5&amp;quot;Hex key&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aZ1so.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aZ1so.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom view with hex key end inserted into one of knobs base&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Update #1&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I installed using the screw as prescribed by several of the contributors here. Using a ballaster screw, I was able to get the screw into the keyhole but noticed the knob was not quite as tight as I would have liked. So I attempted to push the screw further in and that resulted in a disaster. The Knobhead shattered, leaving me to discover that it, in fact, had a width of about 0.03 inch to work with. One of the thoughts I had was to fill the whole with wood filling. An example of what I started is in the lowest pics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3xPkh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3xPkh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pieces from the shattered knobhead&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yde6j.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yde6j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;broken Knob shown from the site, with wood fillings in it&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z7pcY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z7pcY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Broken knob front view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1340" LastEditorUserId="1340" LastEditDate="2015-11-03T18:20:27.273" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T18:20:27.273" Title="Installing fancy distressed wall hanger knobs" Tags="|wood|design|hardware-identification|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2682" CreationDate="2015-11-01T21:21:57.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For solid knobs just a wood screw in the back is all that's needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't need to be centered exactly just however much your OCD requires of you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting it centered will be easier by drilling in a pilot hole first. This will also prevent the knob from cracking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your type you should try and find screws with a small enough head to fit in the circle of the keyhole like opening and a shaft able to fit in the little slot. That will be what will take the strain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second hole is for a pin/nail to avoid the knob rotating and slipping off the screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2015-11-01T22:37:56.030" LastActivityDate="2015-11-01T22:37:56.030" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2682" CreationDate="2015-11-01T21:25:18.243" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to get baluster screws or dowel screws, similar to this kit from Rockler (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/rail-bolt-fastener-with-plugs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.rockler.com/rail-bolt-fastener-with-plugs&lt;/a&gt;) -- drill the back of the hanger, screw the non-self-tapping side into the hanger, maybe put a little glue in there for good measure, then use the self-tapping side to thread into a drywall anchor or directly into a stud as necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SoEWX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SoEWX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;baluster screw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2015-11-01T21:25:18.243" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2680" CreationDate="2015-11-01T23:06:18.887" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is the quickest way to set it to a precise depth for e.g. cutting slots or dados or clean looking rabbets?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you're already pretty close to doing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually what I do is get it close to the measurement that I want using a tape measure, spacer block, test piece, or something else just by looking at it.  Rotate the blade (power off!) to see where the top of the cut is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you think you have it close, run a test piece through the saw and measure with an accurate device (calipers are good for this, though a combination square works just fine).  Or, you can measure against the piece you are fitting it to, which is a better idea since you can custom fit it.  Keep fine-tuning it until you have the cut at the desired depth.  Sure, it burns through some scrap pieces until you get the settings dialed in right, but that's what the scrap bin is for!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2015-11-01T23:06:18.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2686" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-02T00:33:09.690" Score="4" ViewCount="22670" Body="&lt;p&gt;After applying dye to my furniture pieces, I wanted to sand them down a bit because they were slightly rough to the touch. 400 grit seemed to remove a bit of the dye so I used what else I had, 1000. I did a light sanding all over so that the pieces are now smooth, however I'm wondering if this is bad for the bonding of the polyurethane (oil base), or if that only applies to the in-between coats of polyurethane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: Since I'm not able to comment, I'd like to say thanks for the detailed response. I did do a test application on two areas of the same piece, one sanded with 1000 grit and one not, and the sanded part (with poly) felt better texture and color wise. I'm not exactly sure what I'm looking for as far as defects-- maybe it's not a big deal. But my piece was never sanded with a low grit to begin with, so maybe that's why. I considered cutting the poly as suggested, but the minwax container said &quot;Do not thin&quot;. So I am unsure, but I'm thinking it won't be necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1341" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2015-11-03T17:01:17.887" LastActivityDate="2015-11-12T03:14:45.633" Title="Is it bad to sand extra-fine before applying Poly?" Tags="|sanding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2680" CreationDate="2015-11-02T00:59:44.750" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not an exact answer to the question but this should help you get precise in 2 cuts but should be very helpful in this situation and would also help you get to know your table saw. This information should also partner well with other answers here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot speak for all table saws but many are dial/wheel based for vertical adjustment. Turning that wheel a full rotation should be an exact, measurable change. In that every full rotation should move the blade up or down the same amount. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make a pass onto a test block (The blade would need to have flat top teeth for this to work well!). Use a caliper with a depth gauge to measure the depth of cut. Then turn the wheel one full rotation to raise the blade and cut again on the test piece. Measuring again, and subtracting the previous cut depth, should give you the depth change of one full wheel rotation! I would suggest repeating the test to see if you get the same results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this does not help with the first cut exactly it does make fine adjustments more precise!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-11-02T02:25:07.107" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T02:25:07.107" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2681" CreationDate="2015-11-02T04:08:55.773" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use an Earlex 5500 HVLP sprayer.  It works well for most solvent based finishes (lacquer, shellac, varnish).  It will work for very thin latex paints, but the turbine really isn't powerful enough for regular use.  It comes with a viscosity tester to help you determine if it is thin enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T04:08:55.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2682" CreationDate="2015-11-02T07:03:41.717" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;By to look of the &quot;keyhole&quot; shaped holes in the back of the knobs, you're probably supposed to slide them onto the head of a screw that's attached to the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the keyhole in glorious ASCIIart, with labels, to make this easier to explain:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;      +--+&#xA;      |  |    &amp;lt;------ thin end&#xA;      |  |&#xA;    _-'  '-_&#xA;   /        \&#xA;  |          |  &amp;lt;---- circle end&#xA;   \        /&#xA;    '--__--'&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you do this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;find a screw the head of which is a little smaller than the circle end&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;screw that screw into the wall where you want the knob, but not all the way&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;     Side view&#xA;&#xA;/ / / /|      head of screw&#xA;WALL / | gap ##&#xA;/ / / /|     ###&#xA;################ &amp;lt;-- shaft of screw&#xA;################&#xA; / / / |     ###&#xA;/ / / /|     ##&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;push the knob against the wall, with the screw head lined up so that it goes into the circle end&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;slide the knob down, so the shaft of the screw is in the thin end and the head of the screw is inside the knob&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    On insertion           After moving knob downward&#xA;      +--+                         &#xA;      |  |                           &#xA;      |  |                           &#xA;    _-'  '-_                          +--+    __ these side parts hold the&#xA;   / ###### \                        #|##|#  /   knob against the wall.&#xA;  | ######## &amp;lt;---- screw head ----&amp;gt; ##|##|##&#xA;   \ ###### /                       _#'##'#_&#xA;    '--__--'                       /        \&#xA;                                  |          |&#xA;                                   \        /&#xA;                                    '--__--' &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't move the knob down, you need to make the gap larger by unscrewing the screw.  If the knob is too loose, you need to make the gap smaller by screwing the screw in a bit further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1343" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T07:03:41.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2686" CreationDate="2015-11-02T09:24:03.073" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a general thing it's not a good ideal to sand this finely before applying certain finishes, including varnish, but in this case you solved a practical problem with what you had available which is often what we're forced to do in real-world situations that occur outside of the finishing textbooks. In case you weren't planning on doing so anyway I would recommend you thin your first coat of poly rather than apply it full-strength (note: not absolutely required, just a security measure). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is not to worry about the rough surface now but instead, apply the first coat or two of varnish and &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; sand. In this way only the tops of the roughness poke through the finish layer and the sanding shaves off just those. After which you can proceed to varnish as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A third option is actually to apply a thick enough coating of finish (in multiple coats) that you don't sand the wood surface at all. Instead, the roughness becomes fully covered in the topcoat and as amazing as it might seem you can't see it. Obviously many of us don't apply varnish this thickly so it's likely this is the least practical of the solutions for the home woodworker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For next time, the best solution of all is to pre-raise the grain prior to staining so that no post-stain sanding is required. Sanding after staining should always be avoided if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;however I'm wondering if this is bad for the bonding of the polyurethane (oil base), or if that only applies to the in-between coats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no bonding issues with sanding finely between coats of varnish (poly or otherwise) despite what you might have read. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact &lt;em&gt;no sanding of any kind is required&lt;/em&gt; between coats of varnish &lt;em&gt;to ensure bonding&lt;/em&gt; of the next layer. Ideally the one, and only, reason you should sand between coats of varnish is to 'de-nib' — to sand off minor surface blemishes, e.g. from dust particles landing in the finish before it has dried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Runs or drips, streaks and brushmarks, none of these are best dealt with by sanding between coats. These are broadly speaking all avoidable issues and one's application process needs to looked at if these occur regularly, but all of them are best deal with in a single step at the end of finishing rather than dealing with them at each stage of the process. In this way you save both time and finish, and the resulting surface is frequently far better too (after fine wet-sanding and buffing/polishing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T09:24:03.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2677" CreationDate="2015-11-02T09:34:02.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rule one when finishing: don't be impatient. The timescale for a project should be dictated by what occurs, not what we &lt;em&gt;want&lt;/em&gt; to occur :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re. your current situation, it's possible you'll be fine if you just wait longer. Many times when varnish &quot;dries tacky&quot; it's actually just not dry yet. Unfortunately for the varnish to then dry can take an excessively long time, days at least and even weeks. And there are no guarantees it will dry; many people have experience with finishes that stay tacky indefinitely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T09:34:02.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2693" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-11-02T15:50:56.427" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-11-02T15:50:56.427" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T15:50:56.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2694" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-11-02T15:50:56.427" Score="0" Body="Medium which trees use to transport water, hormones, minerals, and nutrients throughout the tree." OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2017-02-10T16:20:51.667" LastActivityDate="2017-02-10T16:20:51.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2695" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2701" CreationDate="2015-11-02T16:04:57.100" Score="2" ViewCount="525" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are some suitable storage options for wood indoors. Specifically for wood planks ranging 8 - 10 feet long by 10 - 18 inches wide. The thickness is anywhere from 1 - 2 inches. I am looking for some options that will not take up a lot of space but also will not just result in an unorganized pile of wood. I have a utility closet in my garage that is roughly 10' wide x 12' deep and about 10 feet high. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am planning on making my own lumber in the future with trees from my land so I would need to be able to hold more than 20 planks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: The walls/ceiling are finished but I would be ok with drilling into the walls and using studs if the storage option requires it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1172" LastEditorUserId="1172" LastEditDate="2015-11-02T16:39:19.597" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T12:12:10.387" Title="What are suitable indoor storage options for wood" Tags="|technique|lumber|storage|organization|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2695" CreationDate="2015-11-02T16:47:03.617" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heavy shelf brackets, with the lumber forming its own shelves. There are versions of this marketed specifically for lumber storage; I have one such system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The board you want still winds up being in the middle of the pile, but with five separately supported piles it's a lot easier to reach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="111" LastEditDate="2015-11-02T18:52:40.607" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T18:52:40.607" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2697" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2698" CreationDate="2015-11-02T19:52:43.200" Score="21" ViewCount="43809" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it better to store wood vertically or horizontally? What are the pros and cons associated with both methods?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1172" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-11-02T20:10:49.620" LastActivityDate="2017-02-26T22:34:52.513" Title="Is it better to store wood vertically or horizontally?" Tags="|storage|wood-drying|organization|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2697" CreationDate="2015-11-02T20:10:15.997" Score="26" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it better to store wood vertically or horizontally?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends a bit on the status of the wood when you store it, &lt;strong&gt;but generally it's better to store wood horizontally.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When storing wood, you have to consider three of the major forces at work: moisture, heat, and gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The moisture content of wood is ever-changing, generally starting from an oversaturated state when freshly-cut to a &quot;dry&quot; state when the wood reaches equilibrium with the ambient air.  This is influenced a lot by heat.  Warm air can absorb a lot more moisture than cold air (this is why winter air feels dry, even at almost 100% humidity, but 100% humid warm air feels like walking through a swimming pool).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you store wood, you leave it subject to these first two forces, which are always at play (unless you live in a magical world with constant heat and humidity).  When initially drying wood, the third force, gravity, really comes into play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stacking and stickering wood is widely recognized as the best means of seasoning wood.  You'll notice in the image below that the wood is horizontal, with evenly-spaced &lt;em&gt;stickers&lt;/em&gt; separating the layers of lumber.  These provide airflow between the layers for even drying.  The stickers are all placed at the same location at each elevation of the stack so that the weight of the lumber is transferred directly down the stack to the supports.  This reduces the bending in the wood, which means it comes out straighter when finally dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tzrq9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tzrq9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;stickering&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://northernwoodlands.org/articles/article/lumber-pile&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;NorthernWooodlands.org&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood is much more pliable when wet, thus this sort of stacking scheme is crucial when drying lumber.  Once you dry a board in a deformed shape, it's hard to get it back to straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you stack boards vertically, they have a tendency to bow or sag, simply due to the weight of the board.  Again, during the initial drying, this can be downright disastrous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you get wood nice and dry (seasoned), it makes less of a difference how you stack it (horizontal vs. vertical).  Most hardwood dealers I've been to arrange their stacks vertically since it's easier to pick through the boards, though they usually have pretty quick turnaround on their stock.  At home, I usually stack boards however is more convenient for the space since I generally work with kiln-dried lumber.  However, most wood I buy is 3/4 or thicker, so bowing isn't usually an issue in the short term.  For long-term storage, horizontal is the way that I go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you're working with seasoned lumber, I expect that unless you plan on storing the boards for a long period or time or the boards are thin (less than 1/2&quot;, say), it shouldn't make too much of a difference whether you store them horizontally or vertically.  Thinner boards I would tend to stack horizontally, but thicker slabs will be fine stored vertically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-11-02T20:21:51.757" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T20:21:51.757" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2680" CreationDate="2015-11-02T20:39:25.367" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depth gauges can be used to set the height of many different tools, table saws, routers etc.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got the Incra gauge myself and they can be found for under $20.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8l0m4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8l0m4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Incra Depth Gauge&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T20:39:25.367" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2697" CreationDate="2015-11-03T11:03:39.423" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the answer to this is actually both in terms of real-world applications; the ideal is to store all wood and wood products flat, but that's not always possible. And sometimes it's not needed — smaller off-cuts can safely be stored standing upright, as there's little or no risk of them bowing under their own weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solid wood in plank form can generally be stored flat relatively easily because these days with modern lumber we're at worst dealing with long pieces, rarely with anything very wide. So various wall racks and even common shelving works well for boards both short and long. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manmade sheet materials like MDF and ply often have to, by necessity, be stored vertically. Ideally they should be stored flat too, but often it's not practical for the home woodworker because we simply don't have the room. If stored carefully though the potential for sheet goods to bow is minimised; the goals are to try to have the sheets/offcuts supported along their length (rather than the top edge and the bottom edge being the sole points of contact), and for the long dimension to be horizontal, not vertical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These factors combine to drive the design of most shop storage solutions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MLZLP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MLZLP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mobile lumber cart&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UBKxq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UBKxq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lumber racks 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SWGj5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SWGj5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lumber racks 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l71EQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l71EQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lumber racks 3&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T11:03:39.423" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2695" CreationDate="2015-11-03T11:08:07.420" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some of the images I just posted to &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2697/is-it-better-to-store-wood-vertically-or-horizontally&quot;&gt;another Question&lt;/a&gt; apply here too:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UBKxq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UBKxq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lumber racks 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SWGj5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SWGj5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lumber racks 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T11:08:07.420" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2680" CreationDate="2015-11-03T20:45:23.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the same height repeatability you can attach a piece of right angled and dimensionally stable scrap to the fence as a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sacrificial_fence&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sacrificial board&lt;/a&gt;. Raise the blade until right height.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Unless your cut is very low you now can measure against this former-scrap-now-jig without having to make sure a tooth is in the topmost position. Just raise the blade until it makes contact with the scrap-jig and you're at right height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first thought was that one can use this single jig piece for any height but then realised that it has to be level. Or curved exactly as the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T20:45:23.143" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2708" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2714" CreationDate="2015-11-03T21:14:17.723" Score="9" ViewCount="5592" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering what types of screws I should use for woodworking and what types I shouldn't be using as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, Are deck screws OK? What about a square head vs. Phillips? Does the type of metal/construction of the screw matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1172" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T15:18:56.973" Title="Are there specific types of screws I should use for woodworking?" Tags="|technique|screws|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2708" CreationDate="2015-11-03T21:50:52.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For general use screws, you can't beat the SPAX brand fasteners.  They have a combination phillips/square drive head, drive well, and are quite strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For &quot;fine&quot; projects, I use brass screws for attaching hinges and catches, but none for joinery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, don't waste your time on the standard wood screws unless you absolutely have no choice.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T21:50:52.400" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2710" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2711" CreationDate="2015-11-03T23:08:48.687" Score="2" ViewCount="431" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this piece of cherry (American) heartwood. It had a sticker on it. When I peeled it off there was a lighter area underneath. It is not residue from the sticker (I scrubbed it with xylene), the wood is discolored. I am not sure how deep it goes but I was unable to affect it with heavy sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y9Yn7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y9Yn7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: What caused that? Was it some chemical in the glue? The paper? Trapped moisture? No oxygen, or blocking sunlight? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not concerned about getting rid of it (that piece lives in the scrap bin now) but I'm curious about the chemistry behind that discoration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T03:10:26.557" Title="Discoloration under label on cherry" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2710" CreationDate="2015-11-03T23:50:12.820" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would guess that the color difference is from the sticker blocking sunlight -- cherry can darken pretty quickly in the sun:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/607&quot;&gt;Cherry with one spot covered&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/the-power-of-the-sun/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Half of a sheet of plywood covered&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you don't care what happens to this particular piece of cherry, I'd leave it out in the sun with a different spot masked and watch the effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1358" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T00:30:12.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2710" CreationDate="2015-11-04T03:10:26.557" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My question is: What caused that? Was it some chemical in the glue? The paper? Trapped moisture? No oxygen, or blocking sunlight? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Black cherry is well known to darken due to sunlight exposure.  In fact, this is made use of by furniture makers to darken the wood and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/the-power-of-the-sun/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;artificially &quot;age&quot; it&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider the image below of a &lt;a href=&quot;https://taylorcraftdoor.com/faq-items/do-you-have-any-tips-on-working-with-cherry-wood/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cherry door panel&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vkSjYm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vkSjYm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;door panel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see the diagonal stripe where the door (for whatever reason) received less sunlight.  If this door is left in the sun for a few more days, fully exposed, the colors will even out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm curious about the chemistry behind that discoration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a simple reaction between the ultraviolet rays of the sun and the wood itself.  Most woods undergo a similar reaction (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/hardwoods/purpleheart/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;purpleheart turns from purple to brown&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/hardwoods/osage-orange/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;osage orange turns from bright yellow to dull orange/brown&lt;/a&gt;, yellow pine turns from yellow/tan to a rich brown, and many others).  If you're looking for a chemical equation, I'm afraid I can't help you there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T03:10:26.557" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2708" CreationDate="2015-11-04T04:07:33.033" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This one might be a little broad as it can greatly depend on the project. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In short no&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are hundreds of screw types, so sure, there are a bunch that would not work like drywall screws, sheet metal, roofing and pretty much all machine screws are out of the question as they will not bite properly or hold wood to wood&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. Then you have to look at the part of the screw like the different head and types. Some are multi-purpose and other are meant to excel in certain materials and applications. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are deck screws OK?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use deck screws all the time as they just happen to be available for me and were designed to work outdoors (and with pressure treated wood which I use only for shelving and storage) which is where most of my projects end up. So for &lt;em&gt;me&lt;/em&gt; it is an all around screw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood screw, in general, are perfectly fine. That is not even a really specific category as there are different metals composites. That is true of all near all screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does the type of metal/construction of the screw matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, but it can change from project to project. Different metal compositions have different properties. Brass tend to have an allure for appearance and can cause less friction. Steel is valued for strength but is not as corrosion resistant compared to others. Stainless steel is a corrosion resistant (There are many grades there of as well). There are many other metals besides those with their owns strengths and fall backs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While is possible to have the wrong screw for the job you need to overthink this. Features that are ideal and can be helpful for a wide range of projects would be self-drilling / tapping, countersink heads and Robertson or square head as they will be harder to strip of the common sockets (Personally I try to only use square head for that reason.). You can also get the combination Phillips and square head as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see no issue with deck screws or basic wood screws for simple projects. Larger projects might need a little more consideration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 -  I did make a simple planter box with drywall screws just to finish the container. It is still holding today just fine but I could have used better screws. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-11-04T15:18:56.973" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T15:18:56.973" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2708" CreationDate="2015-11-04T11:09:19.463" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to get it out of the way, this is the conventional/traditional wood screw:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YFoVY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YFoVY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Trad wood screw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past it would always have been flat-head (now also called slot-head), and as a result when making a piece in a traditional style many woodworkers will insist on using flat-head screws so they look the part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are there specific types of screws I should use for woodworking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, yes. But which type to pick is often on a project-by-project basis. While there are screws that were not originally intended for use in wood that are OK to use for specific purposes (when used appropriately, e.g. machine screws in jigs or tools), there are most definitely a few screws you &lt;em&gt;shouldn't&lt;/em&gt; use in woodworking, and drywall screws top that list. Some people value them because they're sharp and drive well in the wood they're using, or for their black colour. But they are too brittle for woodworking in general and should never be used ideally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are deck screws OK? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For decks, sure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you need more detail than that :-) How they are intended to be used in that application is a big factor in how they &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be used. Decking is, like most exterior woodworking, sort of an extension of rough carpentry. In any project in a similar vein they can be a good choice. Although they can of course be used indoors they're not the fastener of choice for interior use and particularly for furniture pieces other screws should be preferred (many of which would be cheaper anyway).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What about a square head vs. Phillips? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes and yes. Point to remember, these are not screw types, these are just head styles. A great many different types of screws can have either kind of head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Square-drive screws — which I feel we should call &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.robertsonscrew.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Robertson screws&lt;/a&gt; to give due credit to its inventor, even if we're not Canadian — are a particularly good screw because the square shoulders are very strong and resistant to stripping. Also on a practical level the tight fit of the driver to the screw can be good enough that the screw can hold securely on an unmagnetised bit, aiding single-handed driving. This is a particularly good head style I think and it's a shame it's not more common; possibly the only reason they're not more widely used worldwide is that when invented manufacturing wasn't capable of producing the screw strongly enough in a cost-effective manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Phillips screws (sometimes referred to generically as &lt;em&gt;cross-head&lt;/em&gt;) have a long track record and can work fine but are now a bit outmoded, with the PoziDriv (Pozi for short) screw being an improved version. One general principle with screws that any good guide will emphasise, that the driver should be carefully size-matched to the screw, is particularly important with Phillips screws. While you can use both a slightly undersize or oversize screwdriver with a Phillips-head screw (they'll both seem to fit well enough) there is a great potential for the shoulders to round over when the driver 'cams out' and if you do this just a few times the screw can strip completely. In a somewhat similar vein PoziDriv screwdrivers should &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; be used on Phillips-head screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does the type of metal/construction of the screw matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, very much so but this is too broad a question to go into much detail so I'll just randomly pick a few salient points. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brass screws&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Brass crews are considered a must for use with brass hinges and other brass fittings. Where steel screw are used, they stick out like a sore thumb visually and just give a cheaper appearance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brass screws must &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; go into pre-drilled holes, even in softwoods, or there is a great risk they'll snap when being driven in. In hardwoods in particular it is also good practice to drive in an exactly matching steel screw before driving the brass screw, so that the stronger steel screw can thread the hole and reduce the strain on the brass. Manufacturers of good brass hardware like Brusso will supply a steel screw in every pack of brass screws for exactly this purpose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with this, some people use an extra security measure and lubricate the brass screw, using wax (just a candle will do), soap (any hard bar) or an oil or fat (e.g. lard or tallow, both used historically). Despite the steel screw being stronger it can be a good idea to lubricate it as well, particularly since it has to be driven in and removed multiple times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: these days with the increasing cost of brass &quot;brass screws&quot; may not be solid brass but brass-plated steel. So while there's the potential for the brass plating on the head to be scratched off, they are stronger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Exterior applications&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For exterior use, all screws and bolts should have a rust-resistant coating of one kind or another, or be made from stainless steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conventional screw use&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The traditional use of a screw was to fasten a board to another board, often to its edge, so one board is considered the thin board and the second the thick board (even when they are in fact the same thickness of material). And in this application there are some rules of thumb. The length of the screw should be approximately three times the thickness of the thin board being fixed. Older guides (early-20th century and before) often state that the pilot hole should be deeper than needed so that the screw doesn't 'bottom out', but modern guides do not agree on this point and it's rarely done today, however, in particularly hard woods this can still be a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H95qV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H95qV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wood screw, cross-section of hold&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In cross-section like this notice that the screw actually needs to go into two sizes of hole, the &lt;em&gt;pilot hole&lt;/em&gt; we're all familiar with but a wider &lt;em&gt;clearance hole&lt;/em&gt; in the first board. This drawing makes this clearer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rUrFR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rUrFR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wood screw clearance and pilot holes + countersink&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Even where some of the threading on the screw remains in the thin board the idea is that it is not held there, which can lead to a problem called &lt;em&gt;bridging&lt;/em&gt; where no matter how hard you drive the screw the gap between the boards won't fully close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Screws and end grain&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Screws do not generally hold well in end grain. Where they must be driven into end grain you can 'toenail' or 'dovetail screw' them, that is, drive them in at a slight angle so that they partially bite into long grain. Another option is to glue in a dowel (preferably hardwood) in the path of the screw:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IJtvB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IJtvB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dowel to secure screw in end grain&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some very coarsely-threaded screws, e.g. lag screws, are considered to have so much hold that this isn't an issue but they tend to be used where a very firm and reliable hold is needed and it's worth going the extra mile and adding the dowel. Or alternatively switching to a bolt and barrel nut, as show in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1451/what-type-of-joint-should-i-use-for-building-a-piece-of-furniture-that-will-be-a/1459#1459&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt; or a conventional nut and bolt as shown in the first illustration &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2524/design-considerations-for-a-machinists-work-bench/2526#2526&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further reading:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/type-chart.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fastener type chart&lt;/a&gt; on Bolt Depot.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/screws-screws-arent&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Screws are Screws – Aren’t They?&lt;/a&gt; on Popular Woodworking.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/q-a-why-predrill-screw-holes-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Q &amp;amp; A: Why Predrill Screw Holes?&lt;/a&gt; on Popular Woodworking.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T11:09:19.463" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2680" CreationDate="2015-11-04T13:48:09.803" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take two pieces of wood of the height you are aiming for.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Put one at 1/4 and one at 3/4 of a distance from the blade.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Take a Very Straight Piece of scrap (extruded aluminium maybe) and lay on top of these.&#xA;Put a finger on the piece closest to the blade and slowly raise the blade.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When the blade tries to raise the Very Straight Piece the lift distance is amplified in the end farthest away from the blade.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/29mtM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/29mtM.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T13:48:09.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2717" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2718" CreationDate="2015-11-04T23:45:41.287" Score="5" ViewCount="5872" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm finishing up a project and decided to use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/sam-maloof-s-finishes-sam-maloof-poly-oil-finish&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sam Maloof Poly/Oil Finish&lt;/a&gt; as the primary finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YGZlqm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YGZlqm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I typically like to put paste wax on my work when I'm done -- I like the feel and I think it helps protect the wood under certain circumstances (e.g. water appears to bead up better on oil-finished wood with a paste wax compared to just oil finished wood).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed that the Maloof oil/poly can suggests using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/sam-maloof-s-finishes-sam-maloof-oil-wax-finish&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Maloof Oil/Wax&lt;/a&gt; as a top coat.  I assumed that the oil/wax was just like the Liberon paste wax I've used, but I took a look at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://go.rockler.com/msds/sam-maloof-oil-wax-finish-msds.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MSDS&lt;/a&gt; and was pretty surprised.  It looks like it's basically just BLO+tung oil and a really small amount of wax.  Is this a common finish?  There seems to be so little wax that I'm curious if it has any effect at all.  Qualitatively what is the difference in a finish with using something like this (e.g. oil and a really small amount of wax) compared to paste wax?  Do they serve different purposes in the finishing world? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a related note this seems really easy to make. Am I wrong in thinking that I could just add 1 part BLO, 1 part tung, and some beeswax flakes into a glass jar and melt/mix it using a double boiler?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="566" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-11-05T14:56:14.927" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T14:56:14.927" Title="What is the purpose of Maloof oil/wax and how is it different than regular paste wax?" Tags="|finishing|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2717" CreationDate="2015-11-05T09:19:20.397" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is this a common finish? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. Oil/wax blends are not common and I think for good reason. Looked at a certain way it's because it combines the worst of both materials, something I don't say lightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Qualitatively what is the difference in a finish with using something like this (e.g. oil and a really small amount of wax) compared to paste wax? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Excellent question. The answer might be a very uncomfortable one for fans of Maloof's work or of the finish on their own pieces: it's likely to be softer and more easily marred. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two important facts: oil dries soft, wax dries soft. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no getting away from these. It's because they're soft that neither should be applied as a surface coating of any significant thickness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the Comment above from keshlam rightly says, Maloof experimented until he got &lt;em&gt;the effect&lt;/em&gt; he liked the most. He was going for appearance, and possibly feel, over wear characteristics I promise you, because an oil finish normally would never go over a film-building finish — oil finishes are supposed to go &lt;strong&gt;in&lt;/strong&gt; the wood, not &lt;strong&gt;on&lt;/strong&gt; the wood for a very good reason. If you don't wipe off the excess after using BLO on a piece and let it fully 'dry' (might take a month or more) you'll easily see why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the nature of Maloof's work should be strongly borne in mind in considering his choice of finish; even before he had a big name and became one of the brightest stars of American woodworking his work was what you might class as art furniture, or fine furniture if you prefer. Stuff like this is, to be blunt, intended to be babied. They're not daily users in a busy household with young kids! Well not unless the pieces are safely locked in a room the kids don't have access to :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unrelated to the main question, a quick bit about Maloof's oil/poly blend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think anyone who currently uses it or is tempted to (either bought or made at home) should think carefully about the role of the tung oil in a mixture that already contains linseed oil. What purpose does it actually serve?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;On a related note this seems really easy to make. Am I wrong in thinking that I could just add 1 part BLO 1 part tung and some beeswax flakes into a glass jar and melt/mix it using a double boiler?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No you're not wrong and I always encourage people to make this kind of thing themselves, rather than buy a commercial version (which are sometimes disproportionately expensive). The cost is only part of it though, by making something yourself you get a better appreciation for the materials, you can tailor the mixture to suit your own tastes, the local conditions and other factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above points are often emphasised in guides on making homemade versions of blended finishes, others being &quot;Danish oil&quot;, &quot;tung oil finish&quot; and &quot;teak oil&quot;. But a key aspect that's often not expressly stated is that &lt;em&gt;it means you have all of the primary ingredients separately&lt;/em&gt;. They are far more useful and versatile as individual components than in a single readymade mixture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related to this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the liberon paste wax &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Commercial paste waxes are typically a blend of one or more waxes, e.g. paraffin wax or beeswax with a little carnauba (for added hardness), plus the spirits (in the old days it would have been turpentine, so they smelled a lot nicer) that make it a paste at room temperature rather than a solid. And that's it usually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the simplicity of the ingredients suggest, this is also something where an equivalent is easily made at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T09:19:20.397" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2719" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2722" CreationDate="2015-11-05T16:09:15.420" Score="3" ViewCount="1914" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to cope with a table saw that has an uneven table?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed inconsistent cut depths with my table saw so did some test cuts on a piece of oak known to be straight and measured the depths. Cuts were like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tdImJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tdImJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made the cuts in a random order to rule out the possibility of the blade height drifting. I also noticed no play in the blade position or angle with my hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Results were like this (leading and trailing edge depths measured about 0.25&quot; from respective edge, note x axis is mirrored wrt above picture, &quot;throat plate far edge&quot; is where the edge of the wood crosses the far edge of the throat plate):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YIQoB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YIQoB.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blade has angled teeth, and I measured to the center of the cut. I made the full set of measurements 3 times and found my results only varied by at most 0.0005&quot;, so I believe the relative measurements to be accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing I discovered was that I did a poor initial job adjusting my throat plate height (as evidenced; it was too low), so I fixed that. However, I closely inspected the table with a square (a friend lent me a Starrett) and found that it is not completely flat. There are large, smooth, ever so slight bends and dips in it, and the bit to the right of the throat plate is a few hundredths of an inch higher than the left side. I am &lt;em&gt;presuming&lt;/em&gt; this is the cause of my inconsistent cut depths. I also can feel with my fingers that the miter slide's rail is slightly higher than the table although I'm not sure how this affects things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed an identical trend with a piece of MDF and a piece of poplar as well (this is actually what prompted me to do this experiment) although I did not make a full measurement set on those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to cope with this (or are my expectations too high; the saw is a Ridgid R4513&lt;sup&gt;†&lt;/sup&gt;)? I have not yet built any sleds. It seems like a sled with a nice flat base will solve the issue for cross cuts. I did read &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/1095/1250&quot;&gt;this great answer&lt;/a&gt;, however, I am still unsure what to do for non-through rip cuts, where the material is longer and I want to use the fence. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;† After reading grfrazee's answer, I contacted Ridgid and they claim a ±0.016&quot; manufacturing tolerance; further inspection of the table appears to verify it is within their tolerance. So it seems my expectations may be too high for this particular saw.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2015-11-06T19:28:27.500" Title="Coping with uneven table saw table and inconsistent cut depth" Tags="|table-saw|power-tools|tolerance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2720" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2721" CreationDate="2015-11-05T16:25:16.973" Score="6" ViewCount="6274" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will these table legs be able to support this table design or will they need additional supporting features? I'm specifically talking about the structural integrity of the legs, seeing as how they are angled. The &quot;V&quot; is secured to the table and bottom portion using two Biscuits at each joint. The wood is Red Cedar (too soft, I know).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zhLLY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zhLLY.png&quot; alt=&quot;X ray table&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are cross braces in place parallel to the short ends under the table. They are 5 of them evenly spaced out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I apologize for the poor sketchup quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1172" LastEditorUserId="1172" LastEditDate="2015-11-06T14:07:32.863" LastActivityDate="2015-11-06T14:07:32.863" Title="Will these table legs support this table?" Tags="|technique|joinery|design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2720" CreationDate="2015-11-05T16:44:56.813" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;That design will have problems with racking forces (based on what I can see from the point of view you show&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;). If I stand at the end of the table and push wilh a little force the legs would probably break from the table top. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Table have aprons and/or stretchers to help mitigate this. You need something to brace the legs. Take a look at this shaker style table. It was the first one I found that showed some detail under the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/97jGL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/97jGL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shaker style&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.mjolk.ca/C18+Beech.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mjolk.ca&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shaker style (the ones that look like above at least) doesn't use stretchers which keeps more free space under the table . That is an aesthetic choice and you could easily have a couple of stretchers connecting the opposite table legs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The legs as they are now on their own should be fine however I would op for mortise and tenon joinery for your legs for both the table end and feet. That would make the leg assembly more stable. As long as part of the frame (that is not the table top) connects the legs it should be OK. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;1 Using Xray view in SketchUp is one way to show us under the top without having to provide two pictures&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-11-05T20:56:40.830" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T20:56:40.830" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2719" CreationDate="2015-11-05T16:56:22.673" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is the best way to cope with this? Or are my expectations too high?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's hard to tell from your picture, but your issue could be one of a couple of things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like your throat plate is sticking proud of the table saw surface by some amount.  You can easily check this using a known straight edge.  Shim/de-shim the throat plate as necessary to make it flush with the saw bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's not the issue, then I hate to say it, but it seems like you got a lemon of a table saw.  Assuming you're setting everything up correctly (i.e., no user error producing poor results), a 0.040&quot; variation over 12&quot; in a table saw bed is pretty horrible.  I think most higher-end table saw manufacturers cast the beds and then grind to a flatness of +/- 0.005&quot; to +/- 0.010&quot;.  I can't tell who made your saw, but if it's a lower-end model, this could be the culprit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having a look at this &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/topics/25542&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;related Lumberjocks forum thread&lt;/a&gt;, you might be able to shim the table saw bed to get it closer to flat.  How you do this will depend on the model, so I really can't give you any good guidance on how to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a different note, let's not forget that we're working wood here.  Wood will experience seasonal movements in excess of your 0.040&quot; discrepancy very easily.  This might just be a case of &quot;good enough.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T16:56:22.673" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2723" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2725" CreationDate="2015-11-06T00:48:31.007" Score="3" ViewCount="1027" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 400mm square piece of 18mm MDF. I need to take a 300mm by 300mm square of depth 10mm out of the middle of the piece of wood. Currently the only tool I really have is a Dremel, so I don't plan on doing it with that. Is it possible to cut out something like this with a router? If so which bit would I need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1365" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T03:33:38.290" Title="Cut-out from 18mm MDF" Tags="|router|mdf|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2724" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2728" CreationDate="2015-11-06T00:53:44.603" Score="3" ViewCount="5848" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I'm looking for a type of wood that has very little flexibility (or one that has a lot), what wood metrics should I look for in tables / charts / lists to judge relative flexibility?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the Janka hardness scale a good indicator of flexibility as well or is dent resistance an independent thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By flexibility I mean e.g. how much will a shelf of a given thickness and grain orientation bend when a load is placed on it. I don't really care about max load or breaking point, just a way to compare wood types of the same thickness under the same load. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just not sure what to look for. Most searches for flexibility yield hardness scale tables but I don't understand enough material science to know if this is what I'm looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2015-11-06T03:04:57.603" LastActivityDate="2015-11-06T20:15:11.347" Title="Determining flexibility of wood types from charts and tables" Tags="|wood|terminology|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2723" CreationDate="2015-11-06T01:03:35.750" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's exactly the job for a router. I'd recommend using something like a 1/2&quot; (~13mm) cutter, with 2 straight flutes as a minimum - if you can get an upcut spiral bit or a 3-flute cutter, or even a cutter specifically for MDF then that may be better. A carbide-tipped cutter will fare better/last longer but is more expensive than a basic steel bit. MDF is pretty abrasive on cutting tools anyway, so cheaper may be a better way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically just take it slowly with the feed speed and you should be alright. Maybe practice on a small scrap piece first if you can. Routing MDF is easier than routing timber because you don't have to pay attention to grain direction. You'll want some good extraction and/or to do it outside with a good dust mask as the dust from MDF machining is nasty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also want to construct yourself some sort of rudimentary guide or just use some planks of wood clamped across the width of the workpiece, moving it along to support the router base - you could run with the router base directly on the surface of the MDF but you might run into trouble with the router tilting if you're not careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2015-11-06T01:03:35.750" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2724" CreationDate="2015-11-06T03:09:13.887" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Found it. The metric is &quot;modulus of elasticity&quot; (which the cited article below &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/2728/1250&quot;&gt;incorrectly equates with&lt;/a&gt; &quot;stiffness&quot; -- yeah, laugh it up), and the unit is Mpsi. It is separate from bending strength. It is also independent of hardness. It measures the force required to deflect a sample some specified distance, so higher numbers are stiffer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://workshopcompanion.com/KnowHow/Design/Nature_of_Wood/3_Wood_Strength/3_Wood_Strength.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://workshopcompanion.com/KnowHow/Design/Nature_of_Wood/3_Wood_Strength/3_Wood_Strength.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2015-11-06T05:11:34.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2723" CreationDate="2015-11-06T04:02:22.010" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your description &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/2725/128&quot;&gt;WhatEvil's answer&lt;/a&gt; is spot on. Router is a great solution for this project given the materials suggested and desired outcome&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; a router if that is what you are trying to make if you are willing to change your materials.... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would have to buy different thicknesses for this to work but another idea would be to buy two smaller thicknesses of MDF and use something simple like a scroll saw, jig saw or coping saw to cut out your shape out of one and then laminate that to the other piece. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cut your square out of a piece of 9mm, for instance, and glue that to another 9mm. You don't get your 10mm in that case but perhaps that is acceptable? you do however get the original 18mm of your first piece!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T03:33:38.290" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2724" CreationDate="2015-11-06T04:39:28.167" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let us not perpetuate a misconception of what is stiffness. Indeed, the modulus of elasticity (Young's modulus), as mentioned in your &lt;a href=&quot;http://workshopcompanion.com/KnowHow/Design/Nature_of_Wood/3_Wood_Strength/3_Wood_Strength.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;citation&lt;/a&gt;, is important to stiffness.  But stiffness of beams (structural elements that bend) it is also dependent on the moment of inertia (second moment of area) which for a rectangular cross-section varies as the third power of thickness.  (If the thickness doubles, the stiffness is multiplied by eight.)  See this &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Structural_engineering_theory#Stiffness&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, a thick board is stiffer than a thin board.  Using &quot;stiffness&quot; is an error by the citation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer to your question &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;By flexibility I mean e.g. how much will a shelf of a given thickness and grain orientation bend&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is actually: modulus of elasticity.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more information on the bending characteristics of wood, you could look at this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.recreationalflying.com/tutorials/scratchbuilder/wood_strength_values.html#stress_strain&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt;.  It shows how wood beams typically act under loads and eventually break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further research on the net reveals that the MOE grows larger as the moisture content lessens (moist beams sag more than dry beams).  MOE can actually increase by 50% between green wood and wood dried to 12% moisture content.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The MOE also varies greatly from species to species and greatly affects the amount of deflection in a beam or shelf. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/modulus-of-elasticity/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;See this&lt;/a&gt; to see that MOE for western red cedar is about 2/3 of that for red oak  and only 1/2 of that for shag bark hickory. A book shelf made of the cedar will sag 50% more than one of the same dimensions made from oak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then there's the issue of wood continuing to sag with no increase in load over a long period of time.  We have all seen book shelves that continue to sag  even when all of the books are removed and there is no load on the shelves.  This can happen even if the shelf was not loaded beyond its elastic limit.  Wood behaves differently from metals, which, incidentally, behave differently from one another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2015-11-06T20:15:11.347" LastActivityDate="2015-11-06T20:15:11.347" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2729" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2730" CreationDate="2015-11-06T06:30:51.417" Score="6" ViewCount="22287" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm finishing a hard maple joiner's mallet with boiled linseed oil (BLO). The instructions on the container say to cut it with 2 parts mineral spirits to 1 part BLO. Is this strictly necessary? From what I've read, thinning the BLO will let the finish penetrate the wood deeper, but I'm not sure whether that's necessary for a mallet which will get beat up either way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1115" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T16:15:33.517" Title="Do I need to thin boiled linseed oil?" Tags="|finishing|boiled-linseed-oil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2729" CreationDate="2015-11-06T07:51:39.510" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No you don't need to thin BLO, or any other drying oil, to apply it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;From what I've read, thinning the BLO will let the finish penetrate the wood deeper&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's the theory! But it's one of the most persistent myths in finishing. In reality it doesn't appear to make any real difference (except possibly in end grain). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People have run tests that have shown that it increases penetration and other tests have been run that show zero difference* and it's important to note that where deeper penetration was measured the improvement was minuscule. That kind of thing might be important to a luthier working in thin sections of wood, but for a bulk item like a piece of furniture or a mallet it's hard to imagine that an extra 0.1mm is going to make any appreciable difference! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From trying it both ways I can say that, empirically, the wood looks &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; the same, there's no difference in durability that I can notice and the surface feels no different, &lt;em&gt;as long as you go on to apply enough coats in total&lt;/em&gt; — there is a massive difference in all three of these if you wipe on three dilute coats of BLO versus three undiluted coats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option you might like to experiment with is to gently heat the BLO to reduce its viscosity (best done in a double boiler or some similar arrangement, not over direct heat). This supposedly increases penetration too. If you try this it's quite evident it does reduce viscosity, the oil is visibly more runny, however once applied to the wood it again appears to make little or no difference in how deeply the oil is absorbed. I'm actually a fan of doing this, especially during cold weather, but only as a means to easing application. I don't delude myself that the oil is going in any deeper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*What these tests may inadvertently have proven is that the type of wood is a key factor in relative oil penetration, but that shouldn't have been any surprise anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-11-06T07:51:39.510" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2720" CreationDate="2015-11-06T08:23:01.160" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Will these table legs be able to support this table design or will they need additional supporting features? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going by the additional detail provided in your Comment, I'm fairly sure that's enough support. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The &quot;V&quot; is &lt;strong&gt;secured to the table&lt;/strong&gt; and bottom portion using two Biscuits at each joint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is your major design concern here, if I'm interpreting your intention correctly. It's important not to rigidly affix solid-wood tabletops to leg assemblies as it constrains seasonal movement — the wood of the tabletop must be free to expand and contract as its moisture content goes up and down through the year (a natural cycle, related to the humidity in the environment).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of using biscuits it would be better to attach the tabletop to the cross supports using hardwood buttons (left), or more simply, expansion plates (right):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qaQKK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qaQKK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tabletop fastener options&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note there are numerous other metal fastener options for attaching tabletops, I'm a fan of the above type as they are the simplest to install; they are also sold as &quot;table stretcher plates&quot; in case that helps in locating a source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-11-06T08:23:01.160" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2724" CreationDate="2015-11-06T15:18:37.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I'm looking for a type of wood that has very little flexibility (or one that has a lot), what wood metrics should I look for in tables / charts / lists to judge relative flexibility?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some background: I am a structural engineer by profession, have taken structural wood design classes in college, and wrote my graduate thesis on a topic of structural wood design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @ASTPace said, the stiffness of a structural member is dependent on both its &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Young&amp;#39;s_modulus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;modulus of elasticity&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; (Young's modulus) and its &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Second_moment_of_area&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;moment of inertia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; (second moment of area).  I have no idea of your level of engineering knowledge, so I'll explain a little about each below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Modulus of Elasticity&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a measurement of a material's resistance to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deformation_%28mechanics%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;strain&lt;/a&gt; given an applied stress.  Strain is a proportionate displacement.  For example, if a member stretches to 110% of its original length under load, its strain is 0.10.  Most structural material exhibit strains much less than this before failure, so this is just a numerical example to illustrate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modulus of elasticity, &lt;em&gt;E&lt;/em&gt;,  is usually found by stretching a test coupon in an apparatus and charting the coupon's displacement vs. the applied load.  For example, the image below shows the stress-strain curve for mild steel.  The initial linear segment is what's used to determine the modulus of elasticity since that is the elastic deformation of the coupon.  The modulus of elasticity is simply the slope of the initial segment.  The stiffer the material, the steeper the line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eEuZi.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eEuZi.png&quot; alt=&quot;stress-strain&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://sustainabilityworkshop.autodesk.com/products/metrics-and-basics-mechanics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Moment of Inertia&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a property of the cross-section of the structural shape and is independent of the material (assuming the material is essentially &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isotropy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;isotropic&lt;/a&gt;, or the appropriate corrections have been made for anisotropy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For simple rectangular sections, the moment of inertia, &lt;em&gt;I&lt;/em&gt;, is found as &lt;em&gt;bt&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;/12, where &lt;em&gt;b&lt;/em&gt; is the width and &lt;em&gt;t&lt;/em&gt; is the thickness.  As you can see, a change in the thickness has a much larger impact on the moment of inertia than a change in the width since the change is cubed.  For example, doubling the thickness increases the moment of inertia eightfold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Considerations for Wood Design&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In reality, the stiffness of a material is measured by the product of &lt;em&gt;E&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;I&lt;/em&gt;.  Consider the image below, taken from the AISC &lt;em&gt;Steel Construction Manual&lt;/em&gt;, 7th Edition.  The equation for &lt;em&gt;delta&lt;/em&gt; (deflection) is a function of 1/&lt;em&gt;EI&lt;/em&gt;.  As the stiffness increases (product of &lt;em&gt;EI&lt;/em&gt; gets larger), deflection decreases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3xTUP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3xTUP.png&quot; alt=&quot;deflection&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you truly want to compare two woods, you have to isolate one of the variables.  For example, to determine which wood is stiffer, you will want to test two samples of the same cross-section.  The stiffer one will be the one that deflects less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The opposite is also true.  If you have a wood with a lower modulus of elasticity, you can create a member of equivalent stiffness by changing its moment of inertia.  For example, if Wood #1 has half of the &lt;em&gt;E&lt;/em&gt; that Wood #2 has, Wood #1 must have twice the &lt;em&gt;I&lt;/em&gt; of Wood #2 to be of an equivalent stiffness (so that the product of &lt;em&gt;EI&lt;/em&gt; for each is the same).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2015-11-06T15:18:37.420" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2734" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2736" CreationDate="2015-11-06T18:11:11.323" Score="4" ViewCount="3278" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to make a sphere like hole in a piece of wood like the image below. Is there a special bit or tool to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rAbm2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rAbm2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13" LastActivityDate="2015-11-06T18:39:01.660" Title="What method or tool is available to make the following type of hole/indent in a piece of wood?" Tags="|tool-selection|router-bit|holes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2015-11-09T17:07:50.933" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2734" CreationDate="2015-11-06T18:39:01.660" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're looking for a &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/freud-round-nose-router-bits-1-4-in-shank&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;round nose bit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, like the one pictured below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QecbQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QecbQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;round nose&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also looks like the edges of the hole are rounded over, for which you'd also use a &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/roundover-beading-router-bits-1-2-inch-shank&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;roundover bit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PFKiu.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PFKiu.png&quot; alt=&quot;roundover&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also take care of rounding the edges with sandpaper or a file/rasp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2015-11-06T18:39:01.660" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2737" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2744" CreationDate="2015-11-06T19:03:51.057" Score="5" ViewCount="258" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to build a cabinet with drawers but I don't have many tools. I have a drill, a square, a level, and some hand saws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most guides make use of a table saw and dado blades. I'm thinking about buying a Router and Router Table as a substitute to this. Does that make sense?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1202" LastActivityDate="2018-10-12T05:26:09.020" Title="Building a Cabinet with Drawers on a Budget" Tags="|table-saw|router|dado|router-table|drawer-construction|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2737" CreationDate="2015-11-06T19:44:50.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, I don't have any dado blades, anything I would use them for I use a router for.  While for long rabbets the dado can be better, good set up and technique the router can do just as good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The router is also much smaller than a table saw (a good one) and has many other uses as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2018-10-12T05:26:09.020" LastActivityDate="2018-10-12T05:26:09.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2737" CreationDate="2015-11-06T19:55:01.983" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For dados in larger boards, a router guided by a straight edge clamped square to the board can be easier than a router table. There are a number of good jig designs, depending on how often you're going to cut the same dado, how much alignment you want the jig to do automagically, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-11-06T19:55:01.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2740" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-06T20:51:54.783" Score="10" ViewCount="5613" Body="&lt;p&gt;A while ago I was watching &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/zDJn72yRcuM?t=154&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; and the guy casually mentioned some woodworking marks that I found to be really great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was trying to search for more of these today and found out they are sometimes called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sawdustmaking.com/GLOSSARY/glossary_of__woodworking_t.htm#U%20to%20Z&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;witness marks&lt;/a&gt;, among other things (I've seen layout, carpenter's, woodworking, witness, datum, and other terms used inconsistently to refer to these marks or various subsets of them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am now trying to find more about traditional, well-established marking techniques and symbols. It seems that it can be a fairly personal thing, for example in &lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.com/books?id=rchOmEYbGzsC&amp;amp;pg=PA48&amp;amp;lpg=PA48&amp;amp;dq=witness%20marks%20wood&amp;amp;source=bl&amp;amp;ots=w1ZUCdt2N9&amp;amp;sig=Q8jyuRR6Hm7UUqO3ZMeNDAdCD0U&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0CDEQ6AEwBWoVChMI7-OS7tP8yAIVAjY-Ch3KYwfG#v=onepage&amp;amp;q=witness%20marks%20wood&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this book&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://chiselandforge.com/woodworking/witness-marks/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video of a guy sharing his grandfather's marking techniques&lt;/a&gt;, they use triangles pointing away from you, while the guy in the first video above uses triangles pointing towards you. Still, despite the personal touches, they all generally seem to be variations of a common theme.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only marks I've really been consistent with up to this point are triangles facing towards me for alignment and a double squiggly line for the face side of a reference edge, both from that first video. I'll also be using the tally marks on joints now (I was just using triangles for that, too), since I watched the chiselandforge video. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: No matter what you want to call them, can somebody share their knowledge of a full set of these marks? The chiselandforge link above covers a fair set, but for some reason this seems to be an ancient woodworking secret mysteriously absent from the internet (well, I couldn't find much). I'd like to know more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;As a sub question, which is actually what I was looking for to begin with: I'm also wondering if there's a common marking used to indicate an original piece in a series of copies (e.g. if I want to do the same thing to many boards, and I do my accurate measuring on one then copy it to the others, is there a traditional mark to keep track of the original).&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2015-11-09T02:55:10.590" LastActivityDate="2020-07-01T21:57:03.463" Title="Traditional woodworking marks" Tags="|traditional-techniques|measurement|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2740" CreationDate="2015-11-07T09:54:02.723" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is another example (of many!) where terminology is used irregularly in the woodworking world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me witness marks or witness lines mean lines such as you'd quickly pencil over a board face prior to planing or scraping, they then &lt;em&gt;witness&lt;/em&gt; the progress you've made so that you can see where you have and haven't worked the wood yet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Marks such as the triangle I know merely as alignment marks. Another system uses hatches, where you can use 1/2/3/etc. hatched lines to uniquely locate matching boards to their location for the final glue-up. I find this a little more useful than the common usage of the carpenter's triangle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other major marks used in woodworking are face and edge marking, also called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amgron.clara.net/datum%20marks%203.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;datum marks&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find a need for any other marks I think you should just make up some that seem sensible to you. When you work in your own shop at home they &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; have to make sense to you, they don't have to make sense to anyone else so there's no need to adopt any accepted marks, and I believe there were some workshop-specific marking practices as well as regional or national marks, so lots of variation there anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course if we go with the top-voted Answer on &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1866/how-do-i-remove-pencil-and-lumber-crayon-marks-non-abrasively/&quot;&gt;this previous Question&lt;/a&gt; we shouldn't be marking the wood where it shows in the first place :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some more somewhat-related reading:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.geoffswoodwork.co.uk/setting%20out01.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Setting-out basics&lt;/a&gt; on Geoff's Woodwork.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-11-07T09:54:02.723" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2742" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2743" CreationDate="2015-11-07T20:30:16.073" Score="5" ViewCount="2566" Body="&lt;p&gt;This cross-cut sled is about as basic as it gets (the clamp is the stop block, base is 1/4&quot; MDF, walls are stacked plywood, sliders are 1/4&quot; plywood, all parts attached with glue):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/80RZg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/80RZg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to have added a whole new level of danger to my table saw, with the blade right there in the middle of my workspace making through cuts with no guard, and the large surfaces I can push on with slots that the blade comes through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I use this sled safely? What safety improvements can I make (or should I have made), how should I push it along, how should I remove cut pieces and load/position new boards, and what kind of new kickback dangers (or any new dangers really) should I be aware of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-11-09T14:47:04.817" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T15:36:26.990" Title="How do I use a cross-cut sled safely?" Tags="|safety|table-saw|jig|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2742" CreationDate="2015-11-07T21:05:46.303" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can add a guard to the front so you can still use the full (planned) depth of the blade all the way through the cut without the sharp bits peeking through. Then add a backstop so you can't push the sled so far that the blade would cut through that guard.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add a handle on the front to the side a obvious holding point so your hand is not near the blade. If you can make is awkward to hold where the blade is by adding some height to that part even better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a habit don't reach into the sled without pulling it all the way back towards you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2015-11-07T21:05:46.303" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2737" CreationDate="2015-11-08T14:48:01.093" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Properly speaking, you don't need any power tools to build a cabinet. (However, that would be tiresome to say the least.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes to the router, no to the router table (unless you commit an entire 4x8 sheet to the table), and an additional &quot;yes&quot; to a circular saw with a home-made cutting guide. This picture from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/sawing-solutions/circular-saw/?page=5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;woodmagazine.com&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kZHCx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kZHCx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;circular saw guide&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They specify 1/2&quot; stock for the guide; if you ever plan to cut down 1-3/4&quot; exterior doors, then you might (depending on the design of your saw) find your cut depth too small. I used 1/4&quot; for the bottom plate and it works well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional tools that might improve your life, with my off-the-cuff rating scale of 1-10 in terms of bang for the buck: impact driver (7/10), biscuit joiner (3/10), chop saw (3/10) and pipe clamps (9/10).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2015-11-08T14:48:01.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2740" CreationDate="2015-11-09T11:42:38.150" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are distinct sets of traditional marks for several purposes. At least some of the sets of marks have regional variations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Reference face and edge marks&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One common set of marks is a loop like a cursive lowercase l and an inverted v.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The loop marks the reference face which is the first face that has been flattened and levelled. All subsequent measurements will be made from this face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The v marks the first edge that has been made at a right-angle to the reference face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tail of the loop meets the vertex of the v.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Alignment marks&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where two or more pieces of wood are being prepared to be joined, it is often useful to mark those pieces so that after working on them, you can tell in which way you originally intended for them to be aligned together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is typically done by putting the pieces together and making marks that span across all the pieces of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;lines&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has the advantage that you can use the number of strokes to number the joints. For example, when constructing a picture frame, you could make marks /, //, /// and //// across the intended joins in the four corners respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;triangle&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is used in some parts of the world more than in others. It is particularly useful when joining three or more boards edge to edge to make a wider board. It can be used for simpler cases also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;numbers or letters&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some woodworkers write pairs of letters, or numerals, next to one another on each side of an intended join. For example&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; A | A&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be useful where you have multiple identical parts (e.g. rails in a gate) but are hand cutting mortise and tenons or other joints that are fitted individually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, this doesn't allow for an exact alignment, whereas as a line that crosses the intended join does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Planing or sanding marks&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When planing a board to remove bowing, twisting etc, it can be useful to scribble a line back and forth across the high spots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the planing has removed all the pencil marks, you know it is time to&#xA;re-check the flatness of the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="158" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T11:52:42.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2742" CreationDate="2015-11-09T15:36:26.990" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanted to build on the information from &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/2743/128&quot;&gt;ratchet freak's answer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Concerning the runners and gauge slots of the table saw&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Runners in most cases are sized to the tables mitre gauge slots. A dimentionally stable material is recommended (not required) so that the runners will not change in size too much and risk the sled binding. People still use wood obviously and the tip there would be to make sure the grain is parallel to the gauge slot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of the runners you use you should &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; test the sled before running it. Not necessarily everyday but check often. Clear the gauge slots of debris and run your sled back and forth with the saw &lt;em&gt;off&lt;/em&gt; to be sure that the movement is fluid.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The sled own safety features&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rear fence is most important as it gives a true surface for the wood to rest against. It reduces the chance of kickback to next to none. All cuts should be made with the wood resting against the fence. Ensure that your stops are also secured as you are going to be putting some pressure on them. You do not move, nor want to move, the work while the sled is in motion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another great thing about the sled is that it functions as a zero clearance insert. In order to use that feature properly the sled is usually partnered with the blade it was designed with. You basic blades are 1/8&lt;sup&gt;th&lt;/sup&gt; of an inch in width so this might not be a big deal. Note that not all blades are put to the same standards and that there could be a minor variance. This comes back to testing before running. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Additional features for the sled&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/2743/128&quot;&gt;ratchet freak's answer&lt;/a&gt; covers this area but I wanted to at least add pictures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HaMmM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HaMmM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sled with extra safety features&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/projects/64004&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;lumberjocks&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see an acrylic/plexglass guard that runs above the blade and a box guard on the end to help when you extend the sled farther. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all sleds have either of these features but you can never be too safe and these cause virtually no operational issues as long as they are secure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your hands and other objects&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep them on the fence and if possible use clamps to keep objects in the sled secure during operation. Become a clairvoyant when you are about to make a pass with the sled. Know where your hands, clamps and work piece are &lt;em&gt;going&lt;/em&gt; to be. This can help ensure that no object will come close to the blade path. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to clamps there are a slew of optional items you can use like t-tracks that can help with frequent stop positional changes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Blade clearance&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like covered in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1061/what-is-the-recommended-height-of-the-blade-on-a-table-saw-while-operating&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; don't have the blade higher than it needs to be. Also make sure that the blade height wont cut the fences while making a operational pass. Again this refers to a point I made earlier. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T15:36:26.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2747" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2749" CreationDate="2015-11-09T17:09:34.893" Score="6" ViewCount="5679" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some American Cherry boards. I planed and sanded them enough that I removed most (but not all) of the sun-darkened surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like it to go back to a nice even dark color eventually. Should I leave it in the sun for a few days / weeks before finishing it or will it still react with UV under a finish (assuming no UV blocking finish) and darken again naturally?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, does the answer apply to all types of wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2015-11-09T17:15:00.030" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T16:00:54.873" Title="Should I keep cherry in the sun before finishing?" Tags="|finishing|wood|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2747" CreationDate="2015-11-09T18:44:39.763" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've &quot;sun tanned&quot; cherry before by leaving it out for a few days (~6 hours of sunlight for two days).  The effect was noticeable, but not overwhelming (e.g. it darkened nicely, but certainly didn't look like a 50 year old cherry table).  Clearly leaving it out longer will have a more pronounced effect.  In general though you'd just be accelerating what would otherwise happen.  Obviously some finishes attenuate UV/light penetration more than others, but you should expect to see some degree of darkening no matter what (assuming that your piece has even moderate light exposure) over time.  The question is how dark and how long.  Sun tanning will certainly help accelerate that process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="566" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T18:44:39.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2747" CreationDate="2015-11-09T19:06:18.107" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should I leave it in the sun for a few days / weeks before finishing it or will it still react with UV under a finish (assuming no UV blocking finish) and darken again naturally?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cherry will naturally darken with exposure to UV light, regardless of whether you've finished it or not.  My parents have a cherry bedroom set that exhibits this characteristic, even though it's kept in a bedroom with the windows closed most of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you want to &quot;artificially&quot; age it, leaving the piece in the sun for a while (a few hours, even) will help darken it.  Depending on your local climate, you may need to leave it in the sun longer.  Just be aware that if you leave it on your driveway for a few days, you'll likely have to clean off the dirt and grime that accumulates, which could lead to odd flecking in the wood from the spots that were covered up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also, does the answer apply to all types of wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not necessarily.  Cherry is one of the faster-reacting woods that is available in terms of darkening with sunlight.  Others take much longer to darken/change color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, cherry is the only wood I would consider artificially aging with this process, and any others I'd just let time take its course and age it naturally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T19:06:18.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2568" CreationDate="2015-11-10T00:05:44.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Did I use the sagulator tool right ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The folks who made Sagulator made the default condition for shelf attachment to  be fixed.  The connections that you have in your design would all be classified as floating.  To be fixed they would need to be clamped tightly with no room to flex at the ends.  Nailing would not be fixed, screws would not remain clamped  tight for long.  Screwed and glued - might work.  The brackets definitely should be considered as floating connections.  So, I would say that you did not use it correctly from the beginning.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sagulator can not be relied upon if the loads are unreasonable high or low.  In the case of the long beams, a 1000 kg concentrated load is a bit of an over estimate and would have an excessive deflection.  If you used a more reasonable total load of 250 kg it would be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the slats, I think you switched the the depth and thickness (your diagram shows the depth being greater than the thickness.)  Sagulator would show excessive deflection in both cases and even with much smaller loads.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do you think I should put the center beam ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though, Sagulator only shows deflection, and not strength, I would guess that the slats would actually break if you used them for the entire 1200 mm span. So, yes, you need the center beam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should it be attached better to the rest of the structure ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is a very good question and shows insight on your part.  If you are attaching your brackets with carriage bolts - no problem.  If you use screws, use the longest ones that you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2015-11-13T03:04:07.927" LastActivityDate="2015-11-13T03:04:07.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2751" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2762" CreationDate="2015-11-10T02:08:50.843" Score="5" ViewCount="2586" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was watching another Roy Underhill video where he showed us making a Shaker round stand. He explains the original table was built by the Shakers and how he has been wanting to replicate one. He discussed this specific tables perfection and harmony when it came to the shafts contours into the legs and the overall design. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ODdNS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ODdNS.png&quot; alt=&quot;handcock pedestal table&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from inside The Woodwright's Shop&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He was ecstatic to come across a lathe template for this particular table in his travels and show it to us in the episode. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J7AE8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J7AE8.png&quot; alt=&quot;handcock pedestal table template&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from inside The Woodwright's Shop&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My issue was that he didn't really show us how he used the template while he was using the lathe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In its simplest form I suppose you hold the template beneath the work piece while it is mounted on the lathe and eyeball where the changes need to be made. Then turn on the lathe and work while periodically checking the template. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel that could be an error prone approach. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, that being said, how do you effectively use a 2 dimensional template, like the one Roy shows above, when turning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorDisplayName="user1391" LastEditDate="2015-11-13T16:52:32.120" LastActivityDate="2019-03-18T14:46:37.200" Title="How do you use a 2D template with a lathe?" Tags="|technique|furniture|turning|traditional-techniques|lathe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2752" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2757" CreationDate="2015-11-10T05:15:31.660" Score="10" ViewCount="23157" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I temporarily attach two pieces of wood together, face to face, in a way that's strong enough that I can, say, run it through a saw, but that doesn't leave marks on the wood or get in the way of the tool?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, let's say I have a piece of wood with jagged edges and I want to temporarily stick it on another piece of wood with a straight edge so I can guide it along a table saw or router fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clamps get in the way of the table, and are sometimes hard to position accurately.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wood glue is permanent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Screws and nails leave holes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two sided tape is thick and squishy (has some play, no good esp. on a router), leaves residue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I do this? I have this struggle a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2015-11-10T14:02:21.373" LastActivityDate="2021-06-04T02:07:21.620" Title="How do I temporarily attach two pieces of wood together for machining?" Tags="|technique|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2752" CreationDate="2015-11-10T05:50:58.083" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;23 gauge pin nailer! I know it sounds bad and wrong, but it actually works. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next best is hot melt glue, which doesn't squirm like tape and is readily removable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your example of a waney edge through a tablesaw, there are sled designs that use toggle clamps.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T05:50:58.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2752" CreationDate="2015-11-10T05:53:41.110" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;As much as I hate a non-DIY solution for this, a great option is toggle clamps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3xNBu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3xNBu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Toggle clamps from Google Images&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although these are more suitable for more permanent jigs, they provide good clamping with minimal interference with the tools you are using to shape the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T05:53:41.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2755" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-10T07:54:27.523" Score="9" ViewCount="3226" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to woodworking and want to get started with carving on woods. I bought some hand tools, but I am open for power tools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please suggest any and all tools, hand and powered, that are really required for a beginner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1381" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-11-10T11:20:31.260" LastActivityDate="2015-11-21T03:02:43.390" Title="What tools can I use for carving" Tags="|hand-tools|power-tools|tool-selection|carving|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2755" CreationDate="2015-11-10T10:27:09.347" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hand tools&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;No real surprise here, carving chisels are the main tools used to carve wood if you're doing it with hand tools. But knives of various kinds are also used by some carvers (and used exclusively by some for &lt;em&gt;whittling&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;chip carving&lt;/em&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with bench chisels it's usually a good idea for the beginner to buy a set and build from there, instead of buying them individually to begin with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a fairly typical larger starter set:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ju93z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ju93z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Starter woodcarving chisel set&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chisels and carving knives come in a huge range of different styles and sizes. This is just a quick snapshot of some types and various sizes of carving tool available commercially:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RLa0L.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RLa0L.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Carving tools snapshot&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Unlike with bench chisels it's quite common for carvers to eventually build up very large collections of carving tools, dozens of tools would not be at all uncommon after a few years. Here are a few photos of benches and tool racks of working carvers to illustrate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C9OBA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C9OBA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Woodcarving montage&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But initially just a few key profiles, such as provided by the starter set pictured first, will allow you to accomplish a great deal. After you've used them for some weeks or months you may be able to identify where you'd want a new tool or tools: a new shape to do specific types of cut more easily, a larger or smaller size of one of the tools you already have, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the Comments below reminded me that it would probably be a good idea to mention the high cost of many carving chisels (knives too). Because they're a relatively specialised tool they tend to be much more expensive than bench chisels, so much so in fact that individual high-end carving chisels can cost more than some sets of bench chisels. So be prepared for some sticker shock when shopping around for hand tools for carving from established, name-brand, makers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; in addition to the carving tools themselves some sharpening equipment is a &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt;. And with many tools you have to have sharpening supplies from day one as they are not supplied sharpened and ready to cut wood. Also one or more mallets are regularly used with large carving chisels (smaller chisels are usually used with hand power only). Mallets can be bought but are easily made by the carver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Power tools&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The main tools used for carving work are probably various burrs or cutting bits (usually made from HSS or carbide) held in a mini drill such as those made by Dremel and Proxxon, or a flex shaft attached to a regular power drill or bench grinder. Or if you want to go for a much more dependable long-term solution the flex shaft from a hanging motor, e.g. from Foredom. These are much more expensive than most consumer-level drills (although the price gap is closing, with the higher-cost units getting more and more expensive every year) but they are far more robustly built as a rule, intended for all-day, every-day use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To put some real-world numbers on this, a Foredom could be used six days a week for most of an eight-hour day and last more than a decade with zero maintenance. With consumer-level drills you could easily have burnt out five motors in that time, and/or a dozen flex shafts. And even at that you wouldn't have been able to work as continuously during long working sessions (Google &lt;em&gt;duty cycle&lt;/em&gt; for more on this issue, e.g. &quot;Dremel duty cycle&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gzRxu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gzRxu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Power wood carving&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For bulk material removal you can actually use an angle grinder. Various wheels that have embedded carbide particles such as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://katools.com/carving-tools/galahad-cg/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Galahad&lt;/a&gt; from King Arthur's Tools are often employed today, but sanding disks of various kinds are also widely used. Great care must be exercised when working wood with an angle grinder as they run at very high speeds and remove material extremely quickly, and make sure to wear eye protection (a full-face mask is recommended instead of just safety glasses) and some form of hearing protection for personal safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2015-11-10T18:55:44.193" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T18:55:44.193" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2752" CreationDate="2015-11-10T10:41:00.830" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;As sketchy as it sounds masking tape and superglue (cyano or CA) can work very well for this type of thing. Many people have relied on types of double-sided tape, carpet tape being particularly favoured for its strong hold, for this sort of job for many years, but the hold can tend to creep with continual strain especially during warmer weather. And as you also mention it can leave a bothersome residue on the wood. Masking tape and superglue almost completely resolve both issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you do is put tape on both pieces and simply superglue the tape together. Shown better than I can describe it in words in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ub6PsY4cgwg&quot;&gt;this YouTube video&lt;/a&gt; from Crimson Custom Guitars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Masking tape is of course purpose-made not to leave residue and the thinner glue layer means it's less subject to creep. And the hold of the superglue is very strong and rigid, but despite this you can pop the two pieces apart with minimal prying. The masking tape then peels from the wood with ease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Wood glue is permanent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something to help with this is to glue a piece of paper in between the two pieces of wood. This is often done with corner blocks to allow conventional clamping of mitres for example. I'm not actually a big fan of this method overall (works best if using hide glue for one thing) but I thought I'd mention the tip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2015-11-10T10:46:46.353" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T10:46:46.353" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2751" CreationDate="2015-11-10T13:35:56.467" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Template-guided turning requires a jig which holds a tracing tip to follow the template, and a cutting tip that tracks this motion to bring the workpiece into conformance with that shape. It's sorta like pattern-guided routing, except that the wood spins rather than the cutter, and the pattern is farther from the wood to give it room to spin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other way to use a template, if you don't have a pattern lathe setup, is to just take measurements off it, which may be easier than taking them off the turned piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2015-11-10T14:54:55.813" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T14:54:55.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2747" CreationDate="2015-11-10T16:00:54.873" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should I leave it in the sun for a few days / weeks before finishing it &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the right conditions only a couple of &lt;em&gt;hours&lt;/em&gt; is apparently enough to replicate the natural indoor ageing of cherry over some years. But others living at a more northern location might need to leave the wood (or the finished project) exposed for longer. Here are some test pieces exposed to &quot;direct sunlight for two weeks&quot;, bare and with various finishes on them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GjkNW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GjkNW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sun-darkened cherry tests&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Darkening_Cherry_to_Match_Existing.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt; on Woodweb (see note bottom about chemical ageing)]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;or will it still react with UV under a finish (assuming no UV blocking finish) and darken again naturally?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see from the above the effect appears to be accentuated under finish rather than slowed in any way (as you say, assuming no anti-UV agents in the finish).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also, does the answer apply to all types of wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very much not. Usually the effect is a little slower but the same direct sun that attractively darkens freshly-worked cherry often will have a negative effect on other woods. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just very broadly, lighter woods tend to darken with UV exposure and darker woods will tend to be bleached. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bleaching effect is especially notable with woods that are any sort of reddish colour, the natural compounds responsible for this colouring in plants are not lightfast and you can get significant lightening and an almost complete loss of the vivid colouring that makes the wood special. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A particular example worth noting is purpleheart, UV exposure will cause the colour of purpleheart to change to its default &lt;em&gt;meh&lt;/em&gt; brown colour. But actually this is common with all violet-hued woods, none of which retain their colour indefinitely. So, if you want any violet colouring on a project you should rely on dyes and not on the native colouring of the wood. In addition to having much more confidence that the colour will remain as you intended it to be another advantage this offers is that you can use a pale-coloured wood as the base that will often be much cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you would like to experiment with chemical ageing of the cherry, there's no reason to use anything remotely as dangerous as potassium dichromate. Common household lye of course is also a hazardous chemical if used carelessly, but good news is that similar colour changes can be possible using other mild bases. The two most common that people experiment with are simple household chemicals: baking soda and washing soda. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even in pure form both are safe for direct skin contact so these are much more user-friendly to play around with in the shop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T16:00:54.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2760" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-10T16:19:27.303" Score="3" ViewCount="762" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is &lt;em&gt;technically&lt;/em&gt; an engineering question rather than woodworking, but I guess chances are good that someone on here has experience with this, has already tried what works well, and thus can give a better practical answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to upgrade my shop vac (Festool CTL26) with a small 6'' cyclone (ClearVue CV06, if that matters) and I'm inconclusive about what's best for the &quot;piping&quot;. Space and mobility is, unluckily, somewhat of a factor here, so my solution needs to be something that can be tucked onto a systainer sitting on a shop vac rather than a collector with 150mm pipes, a 5HP blower and a 2.5 meter tall cyclone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea behind the cyclone is of course to take away 90% of the dust before it even reaches the vac, which is supposed to both save money on filters and increase the vac's total filter efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, it appears like someone else &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sorotec.de/shop/Dust-Extraction/Dust-Deputy-297/FESTOOL-CTL26-Dust-Deputy-Set.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;already had that exact idea&lt;/a&gt; and is selling almost exactly the build that I had envisioned (only with a cheaper cyclone). From the photo, they seem to connect with a 50mm or 2'' hose. Seeing how they're selling that, it probably has to &quot;work&quot;. &lt;em&gt;Somehow&lt;/em&gt;, at least.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Also, I found some guy on Youtube who showed the same cyclone in action, and he just plugged the standard 27mm hose onto it (although he &lt;em&gt;said&lt;/em&gt; it was 36mm). That, too, seemed to work, somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seeing how it makes almost zero difference both in price and handling, I would however like to use a combination that not just &quot;works somehow&quot; because some guy plugged in something that he had lying around in his shop, but something that works well (i.e. as good as you can get it, for the same money and with the same effort).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vac has a &quot;native&quot; 50mm inlet (= ca. 2''), but comes with a 3.5 meter 27mm suction hose (which is &lt;em&gt;quite&lt;/em&gt; long and thin, in my opinion). Optionally, you can buy 36mm and 50mm hoses (and of course, you can get any-diameter hoses and any-to-any adapters from generic manufacturers).&#xA;My tools (router, plunge saw, etc.) commonly have 36mm suction (with one exception, which has 27mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Intuitively, if a vac has a 50mm inlet, I want to plug something that's 50mm in diameter into that, not anything smaller. But that may be a wrong intuition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A smaller hose means higher airspeed within the hose (assuming the same flow volume), which is a good thing for a cyclone. Higher speed means more centrifugal force. EPA suggests in their particle matter paper that cyclone efficiency increases with smaller inlet duct area (conclusive, this gives a higher inlet duct velocity). They also say that efficiency increases with the ratio of the cyclone body diameter to gas exit diameter (not sure why that should be the case).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The inlet and outlet diameters are given by the cyclone's build (2.25'', ca. 58mm), but I assume the hose that you attach to the outlet counts, too (a 27mm hose connected to a 58mm outlet via an adapter is really just a 27mm outlet if you're honest!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite that, my guts tell me to choose a 50mm hose to connect vac and cyclone (seeing how a thicker hose will let the vac &quot;suck better, and more easily&quot;), and a 36mm one going from the cyclone to the tool because that one has less weight and is slightly less stubborn than the 50mm one, but it loses only 1/5 as much pressure as the 27mm one and is the same diameter as the outlet on the tool.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I also assume there's less opportunity for turbulences or acceleration-deceleration effects if the hose diameter isn't constantly changing (also, it seems nonsensical to plug a 50mm hose into a 36mm hole, or having a 36mm hole when you only plug a 27mm hose into it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, the &quot;rules&quot; given by EPA suggest that using a 27mm hose on both sides would be the &quot;most optimal&quot; thing to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the vac's technical specifications (3,900l/min; 24,000Pa) and hopefully correct values for air density and viscosity in an online calculator, I get (assuming a straight steel pipe 1 meter long)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;27mm : v = 113.5 m/s = 6,811.5 m/min = 22,347 ft/min, Δp = 58.66mbar&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  36mm : v = 63.8m/s = 3,831.5 m/min = 12,570 ft/min, Δp = 12.61mbar&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  50mm : v = 33.1m/s = 1,986.2 m/min =  6,516 ft/min, Δp = 2.45mbar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-- all with turbulent flow (not like it matters, but it seems like you need a hose 1.5 meters in diameter to get laminar flow at these speeds?!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Meanwhile I've verified these numbers forwards and backwards three times with a pocket calculator, they seem indeed correct. Which is surprising, since even with the 50mm hose, I'm still &lt;em&gt;well above&lt;/em&gt; the 4,000 ft/min recommended by the WOOD Magazine article mentioned in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/773/135&quot;&gt;this somewhat related answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Actual pressure loss on a twisting, ripped plastic hose will obviously be larger than on the assumed straight steel pipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, purely from a &lt;em&gt;flow-speed-at-muzzle&lt;/em&gt; perspective, there doesn't seem to be any real difference, I could just as well use the thickest hose to minimize pressure loss, and still be above the 4k figure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the question that remains to be answered is inhowfar it makes a difference to the cyclone whether a smaller hose is used. I am still inclined to assume that a somewhat smaller hose on the &quot;tool side&quot; might be a benefit since air enters the vortex with higher velocity.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;However, according to the law of continuity, once inside the cyclone, flow speed should rapidly decelerate to accomodate for the cyclone's large diameter anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surely, this is something that someone else has already come across and tried out which one works best?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Images speak more than a thousand words, so here is what the vac looks like &quot;by default&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hu8ku.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hu8ku.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... and that's what I want to make of it, and what I wonder:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rRcQb.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rRcQb.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="135" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T13:24:03.870" Title="Correct &quot;piping&quot; (hosing) for adding a mini-cyclone to a shop vac" Tags="|dust-collection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2760" CreationDate="2015-11-10T19:46:14.053" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're working with a shop vac, whose blower is designed to pull a pressure difference rather than move large volumes of air (the biggest difference between shop vac and dust collector), I think I'd stick with the 2&quot; hose it was designed for. That's how the commercial solutions work, after all. This does mean a different separator for the shop vac than the dc, if you have both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T19:46:14.053" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2751" CreationDate="2015-11-10T20:24:12.250" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can think of at least two options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use the template on a duplicator &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use the template to set&#xA;calipers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.... basically what keshlam said.  The first if you have a duplicator you can use the template to make the shape.  Most of us don't have a duplicator in our arsenal. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rw6jf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rw6jf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;lathe duplicator&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other is to use calipers to take measurements at key places. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First you take and lay the pattern by your work piece and mark the ends, and the high and low places.  if you have a round piece you can spin it and make lines all the way around the piece, this makes them show up better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bmPIG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bmPIG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you turn the lower sections down to the right diameter and meet try to match the curves to the widest point.  Using your eye and the calipers to take measurements until you get them to match.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JtSVQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JtSVQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;calipers&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorDisplayName="user1391" LastEditDate="2015-11-13T16:52:17.527" LastActivityDate="2015-11-13T16:52:17.527" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2763" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-11-11T00:59:26.897" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Characteristics including durability, basic solvent, mixing, pigments or dyes, drying time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Application including suitability and techniques for brushing, spraying, dipping, or applying by other means.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T19:18:47.953" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T19:18:47.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2764" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-11-11T00:59:26.897" Score="0" Body="Characteristics and application of opaque finishes." OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2015-11-11T11:38:13.457" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T11:38:13.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2767" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2771" CreationDate="2015-11-12T02:00:36.927" Score="6" ViewCount="622" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just discovered a bent part in my thickness planer and I'm wondering if it's repairable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part is the slightly orange part, between the blades and the in-feed roller:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bXyWl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bXyWl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bent part of thickness planer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well as having a visible kink in it, it now sits so low it blocks wood when trying to feed it through. Can I do anything about this? Maybe bend it to follow the curve of the cutter head? Any help is much appreciated, thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1390" LastActivityDate="2015-11-21T02:41:56.017" Title="Can I repair this bent part in my thickness planer?" Tags="|thickness-planer|tool-repair|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2767" CreationDate="2015-11-12T02:53:21.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am guessing it may have been caused by a kickback at some time. Do you have access to another machine to look at? If so, you may be able to straighten it once you know which way to do it. But, I would bet it would damage the machine with the force it would take if it is left installed. A local machine shop with a press might be able to do it at a low cost&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1383" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-11-13T16:10:23.577" LastActivityDate="2015-11-13T16:10:23.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2686" CreationDate="2015-11-12T03:14:45.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pre raising was a standard procedure for furniture when I was in trade school. We would rub the entire surface with a damp cloth to raise any grain tips, let dry, then sand with up to 220 sandpaper. We then stained, first coat thinned, varnish, or used a polyurethane primer, sanded with open coat silica carbide 220, then finish coats, (sometimes up to 7 coats), usually light sanded between. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1383" LastActivityDate="2015-11-12T03:14:45.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2767" CreationDate="2015-11-12T15:10:00.083" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks to be the shroud the helps direct woodchips out of the exhaust port.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that it either something got caught on it while you fed it through or something hit it from kickback when you were planing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're precise enough with a hammer, you should be able to remove the shroud from the planer and beat it back into straightness.  Use a metal vise (or really any semi-robust piece of metal) as an anvil to hit against.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't trust yourself to do this, you might consider taking it to a machinist.  They should be able to straighten it out no problem.  Otherwise, if you know your make and model, you should be able to contact the manufacturer for a replacement part.  Be prepared to pay quite a bit for the part, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2015-11-12T15:10:00.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2773" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-13T21:58:50.273" Score="3" ViewCount="284" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does combining yew with copper or bronze cause any particular reaction, like tannic acid timber would react, I would like to know this before testing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1399" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2015-11-14T00:35:51.337" LastActivityDate="2016-11-02T07:44:31.830" Title="Combining yew with copper or bronze" Tags="|technique|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2774" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2777" CreationDate="2015-11-14T06:27:40.063" Score="5" ViewCount="10239" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently created a little counter / desk thing in my garage, and a shelf above it mounted to the wall.  It was never meant to be pretty, but I do have electronics on it (my laptop on the desk often times).  I realize there is going to be wood dust in my garage fairly often, and I think I can deal with that, but I feel like much of it is coming from the desk itself.  It's also difficult to wipe off with a sponge or rag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've thought about doing a clear finish or some sort of laminate.  I'm not familiar with laminates, much. I also considered a sheet or some fabric, but since my laptop (which gets quite hot) will be sitting on it, I want the vents under it to be as open as possible.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What would you recommend I cover it with? Laminate, clear finish, something else?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there different types of laminates? If so, what should I consider when purchasing one?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Appearance is NOT important to me at all.  This is a garage counter top and my garage isn't particularly pretty to begin with&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I basically just want to be able to wipe it off and prevent splintering / sawdust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you much!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="872" LastActivityDate="2015-11-14T19:14:05.677" Title="Covering particle board to prevent splinters and make easy to wipe" Tags="|finishing|plywood|laminating|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2775" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-14T12:06:26.927" Score="5" ViewCount="693" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a replacement press plate for a small apple press using some edge glued oak boards from a hardware store. The board was flat as purchased, and after acclimating to my shop conditions remained flat until I cut out the required circles. As I cut I noticed them bending away from the board, revealing pre-existing stress in the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HqePB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HqePB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;images of the two newly cut circles from the oak board with a straight edge across the surface of one showing a very slight bend across the board.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My intention is to glue these together into one thick plate, with the grain orthogonal to each other. The press metal pressure spreaders will be orthogonal to the grain of the top piece. I'll be using titebond ii glue with deck screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the use case of these parts and the cupping present, how should I orient the faces? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cupped sides both down, up, together, or apart?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="235" LastActivityDate="2015-11-15T11:12:29.477" Title="Should I orient the cupped sides toward each other when laminating boards?" Tags="|strength|laminating|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2774" CreationDate="2015-11-14T18:58:50.567" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suppose a professional approach would be to laminate or veneer the particle board (True veneer might not be a good idea if this is a rough use shelf. There are many peel and stick ones. Need to have a good clean surface). If you look that is what most selves, like bookshelves are essentially. That would make for an easy to clean surface. You can buy sheets of it and cut it too size. I am not sure of what the cost of this would run your and you would need to be precise when doing two edges that meet. Redoing veneer/laminate is no fun. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That does seem like a lot of work though so it depends what you want the finished product to look like. Given your end goal of &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I basically just want to be able to wipe it off and prevent splintering / sawdust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;then I would think there are some more realistic/simple options for you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the side of budget and efficiency you have a slew of simple, albeit not necessarily aesthetically pleasing solutions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Peel and stick tiles and linoleum. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loose linoleum like that left over from a kitchen project (Not necessarily yours)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you get lucky on size you could come across left over counter tops. Where I live we have places called Habitat for Humanity that sell miscellaneous pieces of kitchen hardware/furniture. They have left overs all the time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cabinet drawer liner ( most of those are meant to be non slip. depending on your needs this might not be ideal. I have shelves in my pantry covered with this. Mine are not super anti-slip material and are very easy to clean.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plexiglas or acrylic  would be an easy choice as well. Creates a perfectly flat surface that is easy to clean.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Just paint it. Particle board paints easy (you would have to use wood putty or drywall compound on the edges first to create a smooth surface. )&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I would recommend against, depending what you hand in mind, is fabric of almost any kind. It will collect dust, fumes and debris and would not be easy to clean. Depending on what you are doing in your garage of course. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get away with almost anything here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-11-14T19:14:05.677" LastActivityDate="2015-11-14T19:14:05.677" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2778" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-14T22:03:23.583" Score="2" ViewCount="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a sled with t tracks in it for rips on my table saw. Ideally 1/2&quot; thick if material permits. Max 3/4&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want it to never warp or twist. I also want the edge to be durable since it will be sliding along my fence. I live in an area where humidity varies greatly daily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only choices I've considered so far are plywood, MDF, and delrin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see my plywood warp regularly. My MDF also temporarily warps on humid days, where one side dries back out faster, plus the edges of mdf seem to fray a bit with wear. Delrin is really expensive, $80 USD for a 2' x 1' x 1/2&quot; sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I use? What cost effective and easily machinable material can I use for a warp-free, durable sled base?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastActivityDate="2015-11-14T22:03:23.583" Title="Durable sled base material" Tags="|table-saw|jig|materials|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2015-11-14T22:10:47.560" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2779" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-15T04:50:03.297" Score="4" ViewCount="657" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am an uneducated woodworker seeking help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a timber veneered table that I want to sand back and paint and get the best possible smooth, shiny surface. There are cast metal ornaments on the legs and the the draws have cast metal handles. They are tacked on with the nail heads mostly flush with the cast metal. I am concerned that if I lever them off I will either snap the cast metal or damage the veneer. Can anyone please advise me as to how to remove them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1401" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-11-16T03:31:39.437" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T19:15:18.173" Title="Removing metal ornaments from veneered surface" Tags="|technique|veneer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2779" CreationDate="2015-11-15T10:55:20.880" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am concerned that if I lever them off I will either snap the cast metal or damage the veneer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a valid concern and honestly I don't know the best course of action here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To help put your mind at rest about part of it though: since you're planning on painting that means you can fill any defects in the surface that might be created without them being evident, as they usually are where a clear finish is used. Done properly fills on wood are truly invisible after paint goes on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Trying to save the ornaments&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Honestly I don't think there's a reliable way to get these off and ensure the ornaments don't get damage. These tend to be a cheap metal (often zinc) and it's brittle and soft, so takes damage easily. But you can try a trick using a modified putty knife as the levering tool. IME it's not 100% reliable although better than some other methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you do is take a common putty knife and sharpen a slight edge into it, not enough that it's actually sharp, just enough that it helps it slip underneath the edge of the ornaments. Go for a single bevel, like a chisel, rather than a typical knife edge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then round the corners. Having rounded corners greatly helps reduce marking of the wood as you're levering up the applied decoration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In use the putty knife is positioned at the edge of one of the ornaments, at a shallow angle to the wood surface, and wiggled under or gently tapped with a hammer/mallet/spare piece of wood until you have some purchase and then you start to lever up. Once started you might like to slip a piece of cardboard underneath to further help prevent marking of the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck if you try this!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ornaments are expendable&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In this case you can just dig into them, then using a pair of pliers grasp the nails and pull them directly out, twisting and levering as needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use any tool at hand to help expose the nail heads so they can be gripped. A narrow chisel, the pliers themselves, even a steel barbecue skewer could be useful here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-11-15T10:55:20.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2775" CreationDate="2015-11-15T11:12:29.477" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly if the glue-up is done right I don't think this is going to matter much, or at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following on from the same principle as sprung-jointed edges (where a very slight hollow is deliberately planed on board edges) you might like to have the cup in between. Obviously in this case you need to take pains to have sufficient clamp pressure in the centre to ensure that the two boards come into intimate contact — they &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; press firmly together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So alternatively, prefer to have the boards where they cup away from each other as it's far easier to apply generous clamp pressure around the perimeter than in the centre (use a dozen clamps if needed). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case it needs to be said, the mating surfaces should be freshly worked wood. Obviously any piece that has been handled a lot might have minor surface contamination, but material from the wood itself can rise to the surface and interfere with a proper glue bond forming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So as a rule you don't want to glue any wood surface that was worked some time previously. Even a surface some hours old can glue less well than one worked just a few minutes prior to glue application. So lightly scrape or sand the wood just prior to the glue-up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-11-15T11:12:29.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2782" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2794" CreationDate="2015-11-15T14:22:13.027" Score="8" ViewCount="14287" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whether sucking up large amounts of sawdust at once or when attached to a tool, static electricity always builds up on my shop vac hoses when the dust passes through. This leads to messes on the hose and other annoyances. It can make emptying the vacuum difficult too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I stop this from happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I somehow ground the plastic hose to something? I don't understand electricity enough to know how to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2015-11-16T02:30:30.017" LastActivityDate="2018-05-06T22:20:52.050" Title="How do I prevent static on vacuum hoses?" Tags="|tools|sawdust|shop|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2783" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-15T16:24:09.820" Score="4" ViewCount="408" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Please provide some context, some helpful hints, and other information if you can!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two projects that are making me think this:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When you make frames with a homemade jig, it is often the case that the jig is at 44.8º through the center of the 90º.  You can compensate with this by making one cut on one side, and the other cut on the other side.   No regular person can notice this 'error' because of how you compensate.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I am making a bed frame.  Think of an 'H' with a top bar on it.   When cutting the mortises on the top part to secure it to the two verticals (middle bar is already complete) I clamped the top bar to the completed 'H' to measure it was square.   Did the measure 6 times cut once thing, and somehow when going back to dry fit, the top part of the frame isn't 100% square.   Im measuring 62.75&quot; and 63.125&quot; . &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously I am a bit of a perfectionist, but when I frame a house, I can make a 40' wall vertically square and plumb to less than a eighth&quot; before securing.  So there has to be some &lt;em&gt;acceptable tolerances&lt;/em&gt; depending on the circumstances.  Is there a formula? a percentage? something else? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what is your tolerance in your area of work?   How do you handle errors?  Know any tricks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1403" LastActivityDate="2015-11-15T22:09:50.920" Title="How accurate does 'square' have to be in your project? What is acceptable?" Tags="|measurement|tolerance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-11-15T20:53:18.883" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2783" CreationDate="2015-11-15T16:57:07.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on the project. If you're gluing up a wide panel, acccumulated error from a series of non-square edges can become significant, unless you take steps to counter that by balancing the errors against each other. A joint might not come together well, showing gaps. On the other hand, in some places the difference may not be visible, or may be unnoticable, or may be something you can close up with a block plane or a bit of sanding. As with length measurements, tolerace for error really depends on the design and size of the project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule of thumb: The more accurate you are to start with, the less fine-tuning you'll have to do later. Do your best and don't stress about the rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-11-15T16:57:07.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2783" CreationDate="2015-11-15T18:14:51.013" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The things I have learned that have been working fine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dry fit always, then trim until it's &lt;em&gt;good enough&lt;/em&gt;. You can stop at good enough.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Err on the long side since you can't add some back after you remove it. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure to what you've actually built instead of what you've designed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Order your cuts so that things that match can be done in bulk. If you need two 20&quot; rips set your table saw fence then make both cuts. Don't do one, change settings, then change back to 20&quot; for the second later. You can also cut things at the same time. If I need two pieces of equal size I'll rough cut then stack them on the saw or put them side by side on my sled and cut them together.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use your square to double check things copiously.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make jigs and sleds to help with repeatability where appropriate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A shooting block is &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/2667/1250&quot;&gt;great for trimming miters&lt;/a&gt;. Veritas makes a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evenfallstudios.com/woodworks/2014/01/31/shooting-boards-for-the-veritas-shooting-sander/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;shooting sander&lt;/a&gt; too if you're not comfortable with a hand plane.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When gluing, prep your clamps and stuff ahead of time so you're not running around or adjusting clamps while your glued pieces fall apart. I sometimes do a dry clamp fit to make sure e.g. my clamps aren't going to pull things out of alignment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also, this one's important: If you're making a lot of mistakes, take a break. You might be hungry, tired, or just frustrated. Sounds silly but sometimes you need space from a project, not just for sanity, but for safety too. Frustration can make you careless.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a lot of experience but those have helped me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-11-15T22:09:50.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2782" CreationDate="2015-11-16T00:00:54.410" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, large dust collector systems will somegimes run a bare copper wire from one end of thd ductwork to the other, grounding one end, due to (apparently unnecessary) fear of static-ignited dust explosions; you could try domething like that and see if it helps. Presumably you'd want to use stranded wire for flexibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please report back if you find something that works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T00:00:54.410" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2787" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2788" CreationDate="2015-11-16T05:11:13.303" Score="8" ViewCount="42475" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to install a safe using 8mm coach screws (legislation dictates this is the minimum required size) into &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/hardwoods/jarrah/&quot;&gt;Jarrah&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What size pilot holes should I drill? Is there a standard reference chart? I cannot find one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1163" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-11-16T11:56:50.637" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T11:08:53.300" Title="What size pilot hole should I drill for for a specific size of screw?" Tags="|drilling|screws|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2787" CreationDate="2015-11-16T05:24:14.497" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Less than thread diameter (8mm), minimum inner shaft diameter. The larger you go the easier it'll be to screw in but the less the threads will bite. Go as small as you can muster without splitting the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For coach screws in particular, since you wanted a chart, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/91756.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this may give you confidence&lt;/a&gt; (this isn't metric but the concepts are the same):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BDB7R.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BDB7R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular note that for hardwoods in all cases the pilot hole diameter is roughly 5% larger than the nominal minor shaft diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note the depth as well, the pilot hole depth for coach screws should be as long as the straight portion of the shaft, not covering the tapered portion. According to whoever made that diagram, at least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you want to go by that chart measure your inner diameter and choose the smallest bit you have that is larger than it, that'll get you about 5%. Of course this is still totally general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2015-11-16T18:21:01.787" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T18:21:01.787" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2789" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-16T13:35:38.687" Score="0" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm redoing my stairs and I sanded them, I don't know what kind of wood they are, do I need to put a pre-stain on them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1407" LastEditorUserId="158" LastEditDate="2015-11-17T14:01:20.920" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T14:01:20.920" Title="Do I need to pre-stain sanded stairs?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-11-17T16:45:00.597" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2787" CreationDate="2015-11-16T14:15:34.200" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can't find an exact guide for the screw in question (see next paragraph about this) you can eyeball the bit size directly against the screw you're using. This is accurate enough most of the time. You want it to &lt;em&gt;approximately&lt;/em&gt; match the core of the screw, and be less than the diameter of the threads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are actually published guides for screw size and the corresponding bit size, going back to well before metric fasteners were common. But any guide that gives just a single size for each screw gauge is not to be followed as gospel because &lt;em&gt;pilot hole size should vary with wood hardness&lt;/em&gt;. Working in a hard wood you want a slightly wider hole than you would working in a softwood, or a soft hardwood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difficulty here is that it's very difficult to find incrementally different drill bits, at best you'll find 0.5mm increments in metric bits for sale retail and many sets offer full millimetre differences only. So very often you have to make do with as close as you can reasonably get. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, where you're working with a very hard wood like jarrah and have drilled a hole that's a little narrower than ideal one thing that can help in physically driving the screws is to convert one or all of the screws so that they cut threads rather than form them using pressure, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1716/how-can-you-make-a-regular-screw-into-a-self-tapping-screw/1735#1735&quot;&gt;see previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;. It only takes a few moments to do and makes a huge difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, you can also try lubricating the screw threads with oil, grease (e.g. Vaseline) soap or wax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T11:08:53.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2789" CreationDate="2015-11-16T14:25:20.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no way to answer this question directly — what's sold as &quot;pre-stain conditioner&quot; is for controlling blotching in blotch-prone woods and without knowing the species we can't advise on whether it's required or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be able to find out empirically by testing the stain you have on the wood in a less-visible spot, or the underside of one of the treads if you can get access to them. If you get blotching then you know you need to pre-treat the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: if you'll be using &quot;gel stain&quot; this isn't actually stain in the conventional meaning of the word, and one of its main advantages is that it sidesteps the need for pre-treating the wood. So, if you're using gel stain you don't need pre-stain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T14:25:20.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2792" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2798" CreationDate="2015-11-16T16:01:57.203" Score="6" ViewCount="1118" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on building a Les Paul style guitar, with a figured maple top, and am just trying to figure out how to do the finish, to achieve a nice sunburst effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I lack the equipment and experience to do the finish with an airbrush and tinted lacquer, so I've set my sights on using water based wood dyes to rub on, and then coat with clear aerosol lacquer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the dyes I purchased:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://generalfinishes.com/retail-products/water-base-wood-stains-dyes/waterbase-wood-dye-stains#.Vkn8CK6rRR4&quot;&gt;https://generalfinishes.com/retail-products/water-base-wood-stains-dyes/waterbase-wood-dye-stains#.Vkn8CK6rRR4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, these do a pretty great job, but the one thing they lack is that they are very transparent, which is great for the center of the guitar, but I'd rather have the color thicken up a bit around the edges and get more opaque, hiding the natural wood grain a little bit more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The General Finishes brochure I had for these dyes stated that they could be mixed with a clear finish to create a &quot;toner&quot;. I'm not entirely sure what they mean by &quot;toner&quot; in this case, but I was thinking perhaps this was would be what I was looking for.. But I also don't know which clear finish I would be able to mix it with if so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important detail is that whatever I do has to be safe to use the clear lacquer over top. I had thought maybe I could mix the dyes with a bit of polyurethane to do a second coat of color around the edges before the lacquer, but I read that this could cause issues as the lacquer shrinks over time and the poly does not, increasing my risk of chipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm looking for some advice on any techniques I can use to get this more opaque coloring around the edges, without removing my ability to lacquer afterwards? Are these dyes even the best choice for me, or is there another better alternative that I can use? (without the need to get an airbrush setup going - or maybe I really do need to do that to get the best finish?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1410" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T11:52:02.290" Title="Can water based wood dyes be mixed to be more opaque?" Tags="|finishing|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2792" CreationDate="2015-11-16T16:05:50.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Toner is a colored transparent finish, somewhere between stain and paint in that it sits on top of the wood rather than soaking in. Multiple layers of toner might be a way to deepen the color, at the cost of making the wood grain less visible. I'd experiment on a scrap piece first, of course!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="100" LastEditDate="2015-11-17T03:13:04.933" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T03:13:04.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2782" CreationDate="2015-11-16T18:46:15.607" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are dust collection systems which are built with anti-static features at the collection point, hoses and tools.  Festool is an example of such system where the hose and dust extractors work together to prevent static buildup. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this system, there is no wire used but rather the hose itself is capable of conducting electricity since it's made from a &quot;high-carbon plastic&quot;, so the tool is grounded via the hose to the extractor, which is then grounded to your electrical system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T18:46:15.607" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2787" CreationDate="2015-11-16T19:21:47.327" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used a product called Screw-mate from Stanley.  It is a one piece bit and countersink for tapered wood screws.  Just select the bit that matches your screw size and length and drill a hole that matches the screw.  I have no idea what diameter hole is drilled, but it has always produced satisfactory results on the rare occasions that I have resorted to screws for joinery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a little web search and found that they are now quite expensive - $20 or more per bit.  Even though I bought my few screw-mates long, long ago, I cannot believe that I paid more than one dollar each in the 70's.  (I can't believe I would have paid fifty cents each for them.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T19:21:47.327" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2796" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2799" CreationDate="2015-11-16T20:09:28.800" Score="5" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have solid oak kitchen/bath cabinets, build in 1990s, which are generally in a good shape but the finish is not so much. They are covered with some kind of a satin clear finish, applied very thinly, and apparently no stain. I have no idea what exactly the finish is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to re-finish them, without fully stripping them first. Can it be done at all? Can I just wipe something like wipe-on polyurethane on them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1370" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T12:36:26.383" Title="How to re-finish solid oak cabinets?" Tags="|refinishing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2796" CreationDate="2015-11-16T20:55:41.530" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'd like to re-finish them, without fully stripping them first. Can it be done at all? Can I just wipe something like wipe-on polyurethane on them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure, you can do that, but it will probably look like junk.  Long story short, &lt;strong&gt;there is no shortcut way to refinish wood&lt;/strong&gt;.  All forms of refinishing (that look nice, anyway) will require removing the existing finish to some level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Further Discussion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without a picture showing exactly what you're working with, it's hard to tell exactly what to do in your situation.  I'm going to assume that your cabinets are finished using polyurethane based on the time of life you're describing and the general usage of that finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on my experience with degraded finishes, I'm assuming you have some peeling or flaking of the finish.  If they've been in constant use for 25 years, you probably have some rub-through as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rub-through might be a little easier to deal with if all you're looking to do is wipe on a new coat of finish.  There is no flakiness to remove, so there is a smooth transition between the finished and non-finished parts, at least as far as tactile smoothness goes.  However, the cabinets have 25 years of patina on them in the form of accumulated dirt and grime.  Finishing over that will not have a good effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the finish is flaking, you will have to remove the flakes if you want any hope of a nice finish when you're done.  And, if you're removing flakes of old finish anyway, you might as well go ahead and remove it all in one go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T20:55:41.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2792" CreationDate="2015-11-17T11:52:02.290" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I lack the equipment and experience to do the finish with an airbrush and tinted lacquer, so I've set my sights on using water based wood dyes to rub on&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me stop you right there. Believe it or not you've actually set yourself a harder task, where it's &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; difficult to achieve the result you're aiming for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd want to do some pretty extensive testing to see whether this is even practical for you, much less give you the exact effect you're hoping to achieve. I've used waterbased products of various kinds over the years and even at a far smaller scale than you're working the fast drying time can begin to be an issue. You'd potentially be fighting two things here: evaporation of the water 'base' and absorption by the wood. Combined, the finish can begin to dry in places before you've even completed a single wipe across the area you're coating. And once that happens you can basically say goodbye to any sort of blemish-free application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I had to attempt something like this by hand to say that I would prefer to do it with an oil-based product would be a massive understatement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The General Finishes brochure I had for these dyes stated that they could be mixed with a clear finish to create a &quot;toner&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A toner is one traditional term for a coloured overcoat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past these were more heavily used to blend in (tone) individual panels where the wood was a slightly lighter colour, to match others in a piece that were a bit darker. Or to blend in an unavoidable bit of sapwood to match the heartwood in the rest of the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I had thought maybe I could mix the dyes with a bit of polyurethane to do a second coat of color around the edges before the lacquer, but I read that this could cause issues as the lacquer shrinks over time and the poly does not, increasing my risk of chipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would be highly dependent on what's actually in the can. That advice I'm sure stems from experience using true lacquer, but a spraycan finish that calls itself lacquer might not actually be lacquer in anything but name. There are many confusing and contradictory names in retail finishing products, because the target market is not professionals so they use generic terms as sort of keywords for the buyer, e.g. clear, hard finish = lacquer. Even if what's in the can is a waterbased acrylic finish of some sort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(without the need to get an airbrush setup going - or maybe I really do need to do that to get the best finish?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes I'm afraid spraying is &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; way to do this kind of thing. It is possible using hand methods (wiping, padding, flogging, stippling) but it's not an exaggeration to say that reliably achieving a really good result would be expert-level finishing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now re. the spraying, an airbrush would not be the tool of choice for work of this scale. It can be done by airbrush (using a suitable nozzle), but some kind of spraygun is better suited to the job and that's what is used in the Gibson factory. Even using the right tool it's still work that requires a deft touch, so a few practice pieces would be advisable to ensure a good result on the completed guitar body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide to go down this road, be sure to factor in the cost of the compressor and any necessary added parts, e.g. a moisture trap if one is not fitted already. A compressor will usually cost quite a bit more than the airbrush or spraygun so it's not an insignificant part of the setup costs to spray. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also if you'll be spraying real lacquer you'll want to invest in a good respirator and the appropriate organic-vapour cartridges. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T11:52:02.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2796" CreationDate="2015-11-17T12:36:26.383" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'd like to re-finish them, without fully stripping them first. Can it be done at all? Can I just wipe something like wipe-on polyurethane on them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes and yes, but there are no guarantees about the results and it is dependent on a few specifics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course the first job would be to thoroughly clean the surface. Any grease (and there &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; be grease on them, from handling if not from aerosolised cooking oils) will prevent the formation of a proper bond with any new coating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best way to find out if this might work for you is to actually test it out. Here's what I would suggest you try to test feasibility:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pick the worst door and take it off the cabinets — the worst because there's no point in continuing if you can't deal with the worst of it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean it thoroughly, in practice this will usually mean washing twice, with a methodical rinsing and wiping after each washing. It might also be advisable to wipe down with spirits as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very lightly scuff the surface, with fine abrasive paper (e.g. 280-320 grit, approximately equal to P320-P400), fine steel wool or something like Scotch-Brite (common nylon pot scourers can work here).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wipe on your finish and see how it looks once it dries. One coat might not be enough to fully assess the success, I'd try two at least.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't already have wipe-on poly you can make your own very easily. Simply decant some poly (gloss preferably) to a clean container and add spirits, then mix thoroughly. That's it, you're done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usual dilution ratio is 1:1, but you can thin more or less to suit your own tastes, to account for the initial thickness of the poly (some are thinner than others) or to compensate for the temperature in the shop (less thinning when it's warm, more thinning when it's cold).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason you want to use gloss poly here is so that there are no matting agents to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T12:36:26.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="143" CreationDate="2015-11-17T14:14:49.623" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want to use a bowl carving adze: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.etsy.com/listing/190787274/curved-bowl-adze-big-curve-steel-4150?ref=related-0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.etsy.com/listing/190787274/curved-bowl-adze-big-curve-steel-4150?ref=related-0&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.japanwoodworker.com/Product/05Z97/CURVED-CARVING-ADZ.aspx?gclid=CMeq__TRl8kCFdcRgQodt5QAkQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.japanwoodworker.com/Product/05Z97/CURVED-CARVING-ADZ.aspx?gclid=CMeq__TRl8kCFdcRgQodt5QAkQ&lt;/a&gt;  You work from the sides into the middle.  The trick is getting your walls to be of an even thickness.  Peter Follansbee has some great photos here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://pfollansbee.wordpress.com/2015/07/02/bowl-carving-tools-and-video-update/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://pfollansbee.wordpress.com/2015/07/02/bowl-carving-tools-and-video-update/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="686" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T14:14:49.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2801" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3590" CreationDate="2015-11-17T16:25:50.857" Score="4" ViewCount="1824" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on a bar/entertainment center and had an idea to make the facial boards (1 x 8) that will run the length of the front look like tarnished bronze.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My initial thoughts are &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply a metallic gold/bronze/copper paint&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply a gel stain over the top to make it appear tarnished&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply a clear coat, poly maybe, over the top&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can this be done, has anyone attempted something similar that has worked.  If so can you share a picture of the results?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking to create an effect similar to this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m16D8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m16D8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="212" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T19:02:55.687" Title="Creating a tarnished bronze look on wood" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2779" CreationDate="2015-11-17T19:15:18.173" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I would not remove the ornaments at all.  Tape them over.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tape obviously isn't the right shape so here is my method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cover the entire ornament in tape, it doesn't have to be pretty.  Pay special attention to the tape adhering to the edges of the ornament where they meet with the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a razor knife/blade and gently cut the tape around the ornament.  Cut at an angle where the tape and the ornament meet.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will get you a flush edge when you remove the tape from the ornament after painting/staining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="212" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T19:15:18.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2803" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2805" CreationDate="2015-11-17T19:38:51.510" Score="4" ViewCount="5639" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have gunstock oak flooring and would like to match a piece of pine furniture to it.  Any ideas how to achieve this?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm open to liquid or gel stains, but would like to avoid veneers as it's pretty large.  Where possible, I'd like to avoid buying lots of different stains and mixing them by trial and error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1256/how-can-i-match-a-finish-on-furniture-when-re-finishing&quot;&gt;How can I match a finish on furniture when re-finishing?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1154" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2021-11-28T18:34:45.890" Title="How can I match gunstock oak with pine?" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2803" CreationDate="2015-11-17T19:45:30.723" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good luck.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, since pine takes stain fairly well, you can try to match the overall color, but it will still look like stained pine.  Your best bet, would be to bring a sample of the color you are trying to match into a store then make it just a little darker.  Since Oak tends to start a little darker than pine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also bring in a sample piece of pine with you, so if you have them making the color, you can start light and try a little on a piece of the board, and slowly darken it until you get close.  Then you should only have to buy one can of paint.  I've done similar things at Ace Hardware (though I was matching something else entirely.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T19:45:30.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2803" CreationDate="2015-11-18T10:21:15.677" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;As bowlturner said, good luck! There are a number of challenges here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Where possible, I'd like to avoid buying lots of different stains and mixing them by trial and error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid with this sort of thing generally it's &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; possible without some experimentation. Even if you were matching a fairly commonplace wood there's no guarantee a product of the right name will give the colour you want. Real-world example here: trying to match some vintage English oak it's clear a commercial English Oak stain is completely the wrong sort of colour (too red), but with a little experimentation it is discovered that an initial coat of Pine followed by two coats of Old Oak, the first wiped off after application, worked perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, this kind of thing will usually require buying a few different stains and then trying various combos, &lt;em&gt;along with your final finish&lt;/em&gt;; these are called &quot;test boards&quot; or &quot;test strips&quot;. As you can see from the image below you must test with the final finish as there can be a significant deepening of tone after the clear finish goes on, and with oil-based varnishes also a slight yellowing, both of which obviously need to be factored in to the final colour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or to put it another way, if you got a dead-on colour match with stains alone it would no longer match after applying most finishes (exceptions would be some waterbased polys and a light application of lacquer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cP3AX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cP3AX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Stain and varnish test strips&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are additional challenges here, trying to match a softwood with hardwoods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Softwood v. hardwood&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Pine is a softwood, so has very characteristic light and dark banding which hardwoods don't have. The lighter parts (the earlywood or springwood) is soft and absorbent, while the darker wood (the latewood or winterwood) is much harder and non-absorbent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What this means in practical terms is that the light wood gets much darker than the dark wood when a stain goes on, at worst giving an effect called &lt;em&gt;grain reversal&lt;/em&gt;, where what was the darker grain ends up lighter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Blotching&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Pine is a blotch-prone wood, and as such you need to treat the wood prior to stain going on to help achieve a smoother colouring, a process called sizing in the old days. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CGKOp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CGKOp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Blotching and grain reversal on pine&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The usual recommended solution for blotching these days is to use a commercial &quot;pre-stain conditioner&quot;, but diluted shellac or thinned varnish do the job as well or better for far less money. An additional advantages of using thinned varnish is that you can use the same product that you've already bought to use as your final finish, so no need to buy yet one more thing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much more useful information here on Popular Woodworking: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/aw-extra-101013-staining-pine&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Staining Pine - Make this inexpensive wood look like a million bucks&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-11-18T13:00:23.217" LastActivityDate="2015-11-18T13:00:23.217" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2806" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2807" CreationDate="2015-11-19T14:04:12.903" Score="7" ViewCount="722" Body="&lt;p&gt;Somebody has asked me to make some large shaped food-serving boards, about 600mm/24&quot; across, engraved with a catering company name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never taken anything like this on before and I have the following requirements I'm unsure of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Needs to be food safe, durable and easy to clean. I know that beech is a good material to use as I have a beech chopping board at home, but would it make it even more durable / easy to clean by oiling the board e.g. with mineral oil? Is this still food safe etc? Is there anything else I need to watch out for with this?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have no problem in general with laminating timber up to give large/wide boards, but do I need to use a special glue for use with food? Given that they are such wide boards and will be getting washed/wet do I need to make any allowances to stop the boards from warping, twisting, cupping, joints separating etc? I can easily insert dowels, or biscuits, or use a finger joint block to give increased surface area.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would it be better to use a minimum amount of timber pieces e.g. 3 off 200 x 600mm boards glued up to make a large 600x600mm board, or will it be better to use a higher number of narrower boards which are 600mm long, or an even higher number of boards e.g. 50mm x 200mm with some end-to-end gluing? Presumably this may help with stability,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How long can these be expected to last if being used once or twice a week just for serving food, without being used for any chopping?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as actually machining / engraving the boards I have that covered as I have access to a large 5-axis CNC router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastEditorUserId="2524" LastEditDate="2018-09-05T12:51:44.257" LastActivityDate="2018-09-05T12:51:44.257" Title="Special considerations for a very large, engraved food serving board" Tags="|glue|oiling|laminating|cutting-board|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2806" CreationDate="2015-11-19T15:06:52.217" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Needs to be food safe, durable and easy to clean. I know that beech is a good material to use as I have a beech chopping board at home, but would it make it even more durable / easy to clean by oiling the board e.g. with mineral oil? Is this still food safe etc? Is there anything else I need to watch out for with this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beech is a fine choice for a chopping board.  You can buy food-grade mineral oil at just about any grocery store (I get mine at IKEA since it's convenient for me to do so).  The rule of thumb for oiling a cutting board is to soak it until it stops absorbing oil once a day for a week, then once a week for a month, and then monthly after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oiling the board won't necessarily make it more durable in terms of chop resistance.  However, it will make the board last longer just because it keeps it from drying out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have no problem in general with laminating timber up to give large/wide boards, but do I need to use a special glue for use with food? Given that they are such wide boards and will be getting washed/wet do I need to make any allowances to stop the boards from warping, twisting, cupping, joints separating etc? I can easily insert dowels, or biscuits, or use a finger joint block to give increased surface area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TiteBond III is the universal standard for gluing up cutting boards.  It's food-safe and has a bit more open time that regular TiteBond.  There are food-safe epoxies, but I haven't been able to find one that's easy for me to get and as inexpensive as TB III.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To help mitigate the warping of the boards, I would make glue-ups of narrower strips that have the grain direction alternated, similar to the image below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HE7kT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HE7kT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;grain&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/avoiding-cupped-panels/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Wood Whisperer&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simple butt joints between the strips should be sufficient, though you can use dowels/biscuits/finger lock if you really want to spend the time doing so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would it be better to use a minimum amount of timber pieces e.g. 3 off 200 x 600mm boards glued up to make a large 600x600mm board, or will it be better to use a higher number of narrower boards which are 600mm long, or an even higher number of boards e.g. 50mm x 200mm with some end-to-end gluing? Presumably this may help with stability,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I said previously, I would use more narrower strips instead of fewer wider strips to mitigate the warping issues.  Most &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B002JFQ3HS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;butcher blocks&lt;/a&gt; are made this way for this reason:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v6kD1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v6kD1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;butcher block&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How long can these be expected to last if being used once or twice a week just for serving food, without being used for any chopping?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go to your local butcher and take a look at their blocks.  They get used much, &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; more frequently than once or twice a week.  Yes, they will show signs of abuse eventually, but they should hold up for quite a long time if properly treated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, I would mention to your customer than these should never be put in a dishwasher, should always be dried immediately after hand washing, and never stored flat on top of a wet countertop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I usually just rinse my cutting boards off with warm water and my hand (no soap).  Then pat dry with a towel and store on-edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-11-20T12:46:59.633" LastActivityDate="2015-11-20T12:46:59.633" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2808" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2809" CreationDate="2015-11-19T15:17:50.007" Score="7" ViewCount="3065" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am considering putting an epoxy resin finish on a table top for a nice thick and smooth finish (it will cover the side edges as well). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will there still be wood movement after the epoxy has cured? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What will happen if there is wood movement? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will it bow the table top or split the epoxy? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wood is red cedar and it is only finished on the top side. However, I am considering putting a couple coats of lacquer on the underside to help seal the wood completely. The tabletop is approximately 42&quot; x 84&quot; x 1.25&quot;. This is the epoxy resin kit I am considering using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lky5K.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lky5K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1172" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-03-11T17:52:14.237" LastActivityDate="2020-01-06T17:39:43.177" Title="Epoxy resin and wood movement" Tags="|technique|finishing|finish-selection|wood-movement|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2808" CreationDate="2015-11-19T16:02:30.720" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Will there still be wood movement after the epoxy has cured? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, some at least (assuming the underside is not sealed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What will happen if there is wood movement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on many factors, the major one being the wood — not just species but the individual pieces, their MC and stability. A lot of movement could cause cracks in the finish for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Will it bow the table top or split the epoxy? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously there's no way to directly answer that except to say: it might. It has happened therefore it can/might happen to yours. But obviously many other users haven't experienced problems.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am considering putting a couple coats of lacquer on the underside to help seal the wood completely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Highly desirable from what I've read. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-11-19T16:02:30.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2806" CreationDate="2015-11-19T16:43:32.123" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A colleague of mine has just come up with a good suggestion so I thought I'd post it as an answer so that anybody looking at this in the future could see it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a pre-made kitchen worktop. You can buy a 3-metre length for around £80 ($120ish) and it's already glued up dead flat and straight. Just be careful to get something that is solid timber and pay attention to the finish - if you will be finishing it yourself you probably want it to be unfinished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I should add that this is exactly what I did and it worked perfectly. The boards are really stable and perfect for this kind of job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastEditorUserId="272" LastEditDate="2018-06-01T07:19:33.787" LastActivityDate="2018-06-01T07:19:33.787" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2806" CreationDate="2015-11-19T16:47:01.957" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Needs to be food safe, durable and easy to clean. I know that beech is a good material to use as I have a beech chopping board at home, but would it make it even more durable / easy to clean by oiling the board e.g. with mineral oil? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. What it will do is introduce a 'finish' that never dries and needs to be topped up periodically for the entire service life of the boards. As bizarre as it seems it's also very much not waterproof. Beyond that, from an aesthetic point of view wood oiled with mineral oil looks permanently like it's damp, instead of having a truly finished look like you'd get from an actual wood finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So instead I would recommend polyurethane, specifically a thin wiped-on application of anywhere from three to six coats with drying time in between. Varnish is perfectly safe for direct food contact once fully cured (source: regulatory agencies worldwide).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have no problem in general with laminating timber up to give large/wide boards, but do I need to use a special glue for use with food? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not really, but some glues are almost universally recommended in this sort of context, including Titebond III. (Note: the actual quote on their site in regards to the food-safety issue is this, &lt;em&gt;&quot;Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue and Titebond II Premium Wood Glue have both been approved for indirect food contact.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Given that they are such wide boards and will be getting washed/wet do I need to make any allowances to stop the boards from warping, twisting, cupping, joints separating etc? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend selecting your stock carefully so that you're exclusively using quarter-sawn boards, where the grain is oriented vertically or nearly so on the board ends:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PX2j4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PX2j4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Quarter-sawn v. plain-sawn&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can also see from the drawing, quarter-sawn boards also feature straight, uniform grain on their faces. Additionally in beech, as with oak, there's also the possibility of &quot;ray-fleck&quot; figuring on the board faces which some people find very attractive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iqAO3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iqAO3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Quarter-sawn beech ray figuring&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quarter-sawn wood is more stable than plain-sawn/flat-sawn wood:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wFkdK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wFkdK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sawing types and stability&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I can easily insert dowels, or biscuits, or use a finger joint block to give increased surface area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Believe it or not, none of those actually materially improve the strength of a glued-up top. At the end of the day they primarily function as alignment aids during assembly, which are unnecessary if the clamping operation is done right (e.g. using cauls).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would it be better to use a minimum amount of timber pieces e.g. 3 off 200 x 600mm boards glued up to make a large 600x600mm board, or will it be better to use a higher number of narrower boards which are 600mm long, or an even higher number of boards e.g. 50mm x 200mm with some end-to-end gluing? Presumably this may help with stability,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many narrower strips can end up stronger and more stable than a basic glue-up of wider boards (think glulam), however there is some dependence on the wood as always. Very stable wider boards could make a perfectly serviceable product, particularly if quarter-sawn wood is selected for the reason shown above. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How long can these be expected to last if being used once or twice a week just for serving food, without being used for any chopping?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the customer is concerned: indefinitely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some upkeep will be required but the wood itself has a service life measured in decades at least, centuries at best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-11-19T16:47:01.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1129" CreationDate="2015-11-19T17:42:25.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What about adding a grove in your actual frame to allow the mirror to sit closer to the front. Then you could get some sheet material and pin/fasten from the back. Then you would have that additional cohesion of the fasteners all around the mirror. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="105" LastActivityDate="2015-11-19T17:42:25.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2813" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2815" CreationDate="2015-11-20T04:25:49.903" Score="13" ViewCount="27967" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building some pretty basic bookshelves. I intend to assemble them with glue. I also intend to sand them, apply stain, shellac, and polyurethane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I: Dry fit, glue, sand, finish? Or dry fit, sand, stain, glue, shellac, polyurethane? Or some other order? In your experience what order leads to the least amount of mistakes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes when I finish after assembly it's hard to get in tight places, or e.g. apply polyurethane on vertical surfaces without it thickening at the bottom, etc. It is also hard to sand in corners. But if I finish first it interferes with glue and I sometimes damage the finish. I can't find a good technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2015-11-20T04:31:06.117" LastActivityDate="2015-11-20T09:52:35.667" Title="Should I finish before, during, or after assembly?" Tags="|finishing|assembly|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-11-21T15:02:28.300" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2813" CreationDate="2015-11-20T05:12:09.290" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is &quot;yes&quot;. Depends on the piece, finish, tools and your preferred way of working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's common to pre-finish parts that will be hard to reach after assembly, It's common to finish sub-components like doors, especially when you havd many of them and can work assembly line style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Outside of that, as you say, it's all trade-offs. Prefinishing means some risk of marring dut=ring assembly, of not getting as good an appearance match between adjacent parts that should present as a single structure, and if you are incautioUs and get finish on the glue surfaces that will weaken the bond. And some pieces --  doors are a good example again -- can't be trimmed to final size until partway through assembly, so even if you finish spme faces earlybyou may need to finish others much later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The right answer is the one that works best for you, on this piece, at this time. You aren't going to ruin the piece either way, so go ahead and experiment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-11-20T05:12:09.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2813" CreationDate="2015-11-20T09:52:35.667" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, yes and yes. I think some pre-finishing should be done almost routinely, but doing so is not nearly as common as it could be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be said that the type of the finish plays a big part in how important pre-finishing can be, if you're wiping on a penetrating finish for example it's far less beneficial than it would be if you were spraying lacquer where hard-to-reach can in fact become impossible-to-finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of finish type though, one very important aspect of any degree of pre-finishing is protecting your mating surfaces as you touch on in the Question. Joints &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; remain bare wood or the strength of the glued join is severely compromised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should I: Dry fit, glue, sand, finish? Or dry fit, sand, stain, glue, shellac, polyurethane? Or some other order? In your experience what order leads to the least amount of mistakes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It very much depends on the size and complexity of the piece. For a simple jewellery box for example no finishing prior to final assembly will generally make it any easier to complete the box. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you asked about bookshelves, on shelving units that have moveable shelves the shelves are commonly finished ahead of the case, simply because otherwise you don't have access to all six sides of the board. And if doing that it makes sense to finish the interior while the shelves aren't there to get in the way, and then of course there's no reason not to tackle the outside surfaces while you're at it. Last step then would be to install the finished shelves into the finished case. But on a shelving unit with fixed shelves applying finish after final assembly wouldn't be unusual; that's not to say it should be done this way, pre-finish if you find it beneficial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frame-and-panel work is a good example of where some pre-finishing really has to be done for a good result. If you don't finish the panel prior to fitting it into the frame any shrinkage later on it will reveal unfinished wood at the edges which is very unsightly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6AyJj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6AyJj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Panel, unfinished edge revealed&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;But if I finish first it interferes with glue &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned above this is very important, the joint faces must not have finish on them. Being careful with how you apply the finish is a start, but if you want to be thorough then it's worth taking the time to protect them (&lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; of them) with tape prior to the application of any finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you tape as much as the project requires, from a little:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ucGt6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ucGt6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Taped joints 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To a lot:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O9r4I.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O9r4I.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Taped joints 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;and I sometimes damage the finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the area where I think pre-finishing presents a definite challenge. There's always the chance of some slight damage while manoeuvring pre-finished parts, particularly since we'd normally be handling the pieces long before the finish has achieved its final hardness (this can take weeks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obvious advice is to work very carefully and mindfully but everyone can make a mistake so some precautions can certainly be advisable. One that is sometimes used is to cover the bench or assembly table with something soft, e.g. with a clean scrap of carpet or a blanket. This should slightly overhang the front edge so that a bump there isn't a wood-on-wood contact. Some woodworkers even have carpet-lined vice jaws (as part of a set of removable jaws) to be able to hold finished pieces in the vice if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Couple of bits unrelated to the main question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;apply polyurethane on vertical surfaces without it thickening at the bottom, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Highly recommend trying wiping application. Simply thin your regular poly in a clean container and you convert it into &quot;wiping varnish&quot;. Then wipe it on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It builds finish more slowly but it's a great way to apply varnish to a high standard, avoiding many of the common pitfalls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It is also hard to sand in corners. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finish shouldn't normally need sanding, except to de-nib. Despite how commonly this is stated sanding between coats is not required for adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-11-20T09:52:35.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2816" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2817" CreationDate="2015-11-20T23:08:58.997" Score="10" ViewCount="5051" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been practicing chiseling lately. I had to cut a corner out of a 3/4&quot; thick piece of pine and I was feeling good so I gave it a shot. The position of the corner meant I had to cut against the grain direction:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B4EmD.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B4EmD.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made knife lines and sawed most of the waste out down to about 1/16&quot;. I tried paring out the long side with a 1/2&quot; chisel starting at the edge of the board and working in (that's the only way I could get at it). Immediately the wood splintered along the grain below the cut line and I ripped it out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eoqaY.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eoqaY.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I seemingly have no choice but to chisel against the grain, how can I create a smooth cut without splintering/splitting the wood? Or, was there another way I could have approached this cut?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T20:43:26.540" Title="How do I chisel against the grain without splintering?" Tags="|technique|chisel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2816" CreationDate="2015-11-21T02:28:00.797" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You never would normally chisel something like that. It would be cut using a mortising saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you did need to chisel it, like you were doing a Joseph the Carpenter, father of Jesus, re-enactment or something, you would use a soft-wood paring chisel and first make a vertical cut straight down across the grain, then you would set your chisel in that nick and chip towards the end. When you get to the bottom it becomes tricky. You use a diagonal shave, so the chisel goes diagonally across the bottom flat using only hand pressure. The chisel needs to be super sharp for this last step to come out clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key thing of course is that you always chisel &lt;em&gt;away from the grain&lt;/em&gt;, never into it. In your photo can be seen the result of chiseling into the grain: splitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-11-24T20:43:26.540" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T20:43:26.540" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2818" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2829" CreationDate="2015-11-21T02:34:19.883" Score="2" ViewCount="219" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Field_Museum_of_Natural_History&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Field Museum&lt;/a&gt; a couple of weeks ago and at the end of the new China exhibit is the &quot;Cyrus Tang&quot; spirit stone display. The wood flooring was extremely interesting, being a blond wood with heavy streaks of dark brown:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v4Txh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v4Txh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of wood is this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T18:08:31.660" Title="Kind of wood with deep brown streaks?" Tags="|wood|wood-species|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2767" CreationDate="2015-11-21T02:41:56.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is a tricky problem. If you start banging away on something like that it will get less straight rather than more straight. It looks to me like the metal has a natural curve to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try taking it to a blacksmith or somebody who has a power hammer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2015-11-21T02:41:56.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2755" CreationDate="2015-11-21T02:56:48.680" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The hard part of carving wood is actually not the carving, its the sharpening. The most important tools a wood carver has are his sharpening stones. It can take &lt;em&gt;years&lt;/em&gt; to get really good at sharpening. To carve well you need chisels that are razor sharp, much sharper than they are when you buy them. There is a huge difference between carving with a tool that is razor sharp compared to carving with one that is just &quot;kind of&quot; sharp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are better having just a single gouge that is razor sharp than having a whole chest full of chisels with factory sharpness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To start out, just get a mallet, a cheap paring chisel, and the book &quot;The Razor Edge Book of Sharpening&quot; by John Juranitch. Follow the book's instructions using sandpaper grits on plate glass and start working on that chisel. Plan to spend weeks before you ever see wood. It needs to have a 20-degree relief grind, so it will take you FOREVER to work the average factory chisel down to that relief. You might ruin 3 or 4 chisels before you get it right. Once you think your chisel is sharp (heh heh), try it on your arm. The hairs on your arm should just pop off when you touch the chisel. When this happens you are ready to start cutting some pine wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a block of pine wood, or an old pine stump or something and start carving away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you are using a paring chisel your first works will be inspired by the &quot;Cubist&quot; movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you get good, you can eventually move onto to using Arkansas slip stones and water stones to sharpen gouges and stuff like that, but it will take a few years before that possibility materializes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to learn to sharpen, an alternative is to pay somebody else. Find a GOOD Japanese-style sword polisher or professional chisel sharpener. He will charge like $500 to sharpen 5 or 6 chisels. Of course that will save you years of work and study. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastEditorUserId="306" LastEditDate="2015-11-21T03:02:43.390" LastActivityDate="2015-11-21T03:02:43.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2821" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-21T01:44:09.947" Score="8" ViewCount="55383" Body="&lt;p&gt;I decided to build a table out of 2x4s and such for Thanksgiving. I figured it would be a cool first woodworking project. The top went pretty well I think, but now it's time to attach the legs and I feel like there has to be a better solution than the one I'm thinking about using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yhWSb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yhWSb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;This 4x4 is being held in place by gravity!&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the 4x4 butts up directly to the 2x10, with the 2x4s at right angles. Everything is reasonably square, but the brackets that I'm planning on using have the tendency to induce a gap between the leg and the table top if there is any issue at all with the screw hole (tested this out on scrap), since the brackets are counter sunk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One potential solution is using screws with heads that don't take advantage of the counter sink since errors can be corrected by sliding things around a bit, but that doesn't provide nearly the feeling of strength that using the counter sinks does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyhow, I figured someone here might be able to offer some better ideas on how I can properly attach the legs to the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1454" OwnerDisplayName="jbeck" LastEditorUserId="1454" LastEditDate="2021-04-13T15:31:25.440" LastActivityDate="2021-04-13T15:31:25.440" Title="Attaching Legs to a Table" Tags="|joinery|furniture|assembly|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2680" CreationDate="2015-11-21T03:15:10.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make two blocks of wood of the same height as the desired depth of the dado.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a square to make sure they are parallel.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Unplug the saw.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Place the two blocks on either side of the saw blade and lay a steel rule across them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Weight the assembly by placing a weight like a peanut butter jar or something on each block.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Raise the blade until it just touches the steel rule when you turn it by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2015-11-21T03:15:10.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2821" CreationDate="2015-11-21T05:52:35.257" Score="13" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Pocket hole joinery&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the simplest ideas I could think of to address this would be to flip up the boards vertically and use pocket holes and screws into the legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some good examples and picture come from a Community Project post about work benches: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/204/community-project-lets-build-a-workbench&quot;&gt;Community Project: Lets build a workbench!&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Highlighting a picture from my unfinished work bench you can see where I had make the pocket holes. The same orientation of holes is what my table top and frame were made from. That bench is surprisingly very sturdy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q46pY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q46pY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pocket holes in workbench&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from my backyard&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of this requires you have the hardware and/or jigs to make pocket holes. In my opinion they are totally worth it. I have used them on several of my projects and they are very sturdy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Add a corner brace&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another idea that builds on my frame suggestion above, still relying on flipping the boards vertical, is to make or buy a corner brace. Note in the below picture that the brace is hiding pocket holes that join the boards to the leg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6XDgy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6XDgy.png&quot; alt=&quot;Corner brace&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.home-dzine.co.za/diy/diy-diningset.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;home-dzine.co.za&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many commercial corner braces, of various designs, are available as well. Like this metal brace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hertzfurniture.com/Science-Lab-Tables--30H-Chem-Res-Laminate-Top-w--Double-Bookbox--5746--mo.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2JxRTm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Metal corner brace&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hertzfurniture.com/Science-Lab-Tables--30H-Chem-Res-Laminate-Top-w--Double-Bookbox--5746--mo.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hertzfurniture.com&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Mortise and Tenon&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another great, and simple, joinery technique to use would be mortise and tenons. However it looks like you have already made your cuts so making tenons would be out of the question. The would have to be long enough to go into the mortises of the 4x4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Minimum: Flip up the boards&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will help mitigate racking forces against the legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see in the picture that you have screwed the table top directly to your apron. I would expect as humidity/moisture levels changes that your table top, screws and apron will be moving. Depending on how much stress the expect you could expect some splitting and cracking in the boards. If I am wrong then forgive me but always remember the relationship between wood and water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-11-23T02:17:13.687" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2818" CreationDate="2015-11-21T10:47:49.070" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently it is a not a hard wood, but a synthetic bamboo plywood. The manufacturer, Intectural, describes it as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;PlybooStrand uses strand technology to turn 100% rapidly renewable&#xA;  bamboo into a beautiful yet exceptionally durable green building&#xA;  material for both commercial and residential use. Strand differs from&#xA;  typical bamboo material in that the bamboo is not cut into strips and&#xA;  laminated, but instead thrashed and pressed into dense logs. The logs&#xA;  are sliced and fabricated into plywood, creating a harder, denser&#xA;  material with an entirely new bamboo aesthetic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2015-11-21T10:47:49.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2825" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2828" CreationDate="2015-11-21T14:58:01.790" Score="5" ViewCount="2153" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 30&quot; long, 1/2&quot; thick piece of plywood. I want to attach a 30&quot; x 1/8&quot; x 1/2&quot; pine strip to one of the long edges. I only have 3/4&quot; pine to cut the strips out of and it's got a bit of a curve, so my plan is to glue it to the edge in its natural curve then trim it flush to the plywood with the router:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XwF1q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XwF1q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only router I own is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/trim-router&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;trim router&lt;/a&gt;. I could freehand this but with only 1/2&quot; to rest on it's difficult to keep it from wobbling, and also the cuts will have to be cautiously slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a very no-frills, basic table I made for it. I am more than willing to add features to it since this is a problem I'd like to find a long term solution to (there is a fence too, not shown, that's just some extruded aluminum angles with a wood face, but I actually prefer just clamping wood to the table for fences because I don't have a good fence adjustment solution with a wide position range yet):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ygzht.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ygzht.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be running the board, with trim attached, past the bit like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sm8Qa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sm8Qa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I'm not sure how to stabilize it (trim not shown in next pic):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hfnmd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hfnmd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I do this? The problems I've had while testing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Freehand, difficult to keep stable as mentioned above.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I tried putting the fence in but with the trim sticking out past both the plywood faces, I couldn't figure out how to make that work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I also tried just carefully holding it vertically on the table. That was about the same as free hand, a little worse because it's easier to hold the router straight than it is to hold the plywood straight. Holding too high tended to pivot away from the bit, too low into the bit. Plus this was about as slow as doing it freehand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My goal is to have a way to do this quickly and cleanly, and as perfectly flush as the flush trim bit normally gets it. I want to put the piece on the table, zip it past, and be done. I also want to be able to do this in the future so I don't mind investing time into jig building / table upgrades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2015-11-21T22:53:06.417" LastActivityDate="2021-11-09T06:18:36.903" Title="Stabilizing thin boards, with trim, vertically on a router table" Tags="|technique|router|router-table|trim|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2826" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2827" CreationDate="2015-11-21T15:12:13.473" Score="6" ViewCount="5257" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if this question is a fit for Stack Exchange, but I'll try to make it fit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a Bosch 1274DVS 10 years ago and I was able to get an accessory 'guide'.  The guide was a frame that went around the belt sander to help prevent 'digging' into a large work piece and helping keep it level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My dad would like a belt sander with this optional guide, but my model is no longer available and last year I was able to find 1 that had it as an option.  I cannot find any right now.  While this isn't how people primarily use the belt sanders, I wonder why this VERY useful accessory isn't more widely available?  Do people feel confident enough to sand a large cherry tabletop unguided?  or are there other tools that have replaced the need for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Right after writing this question, I found the guides are called 'sanding frames'...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2015-11-24T20:42:46.407" LastActivityDate="2015-11-25T19:12:34.640" Title="Why aren't belt sanders with sanding frames available anywhere?" Tags="|tools|power-tools|sanding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2826" CreationDate="2015-11-21T15:52:58.180" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, frames are a relatively rare accessory, but they do exist. I started with all belt sanders currently available at the time of this writing at Amazon (with good reviews) and Home Depot (in stock in stores or online), then looked for sanding frames. I have built a list &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1cmuIlqmQAieNVtJEliVgOdNH50Fl5ZXDk2lQc7U1y-o/edit?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. In this list:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Red means frame definitely not available.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Orange means frame probably not available.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Green means definitely available.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Couple of notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;DeWalt, Milwaukee, and Bosch no longer manufacture belt sanders, at least not under those names (DeWalt and Black &amp;amp; Decker are the same company).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are sanding frames available for out-of-production sanders (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;amp;field-keywords=sanding%20frame&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Amazon has some&lt;/a&gt;, for example), I did not include those.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Porter-Cable, Ridgid, Ryobi, and SKIL don't seem to have frames for any of their current sanders and the internet is full of people who are sad about this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Makita refers to sanding frames as &quot;sanding shoes&quot; instead, while Porter-Cable uses &quot;sanding shoe&quot; to refer to the base plate behind the belt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SKIL Europe has the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.skileurope.com/ie/en/diyaccocs/accessories/1165/471/accessories-for-belt-sanders/_equalizer_-sanding-frame/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;Equalizer&quot; frame&lt;/a&gt; for the 7600, 7675, 7610, 7620, 7630. I did not check to see if those were still in production.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Festool &lt;a href=&quot;http://festoolownersgroup.com/ask-festool/bs-75-available-in-usa/msg203866/?PHPSESSID=qt12ip66vmholrslnn7u4duqg1#msg203866&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;does not seem to have 110V versions of their sanders&lt;/a&gt;. You can generally find converters to your country's standard but they aren't always cheap.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't feel like clicking links, here are the matching pairs I am currently aware of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sander: &lt;a href=&quot;http://makitatools.com/en-us/Modules/Tools/ToolDetails.aspx?Name=9404&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Makita 9404&lt;/a&gt;, Frame: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.makita.ca/index2.php?event=newaccessorydetailstemp&amp;amp;id=223&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Makita 193072-3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sander: &lt;a href=&quot;http://makitatools.com/en-us/Modules/Tools/ToolDetails.aspx?Name=9903&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Makita 9903&lt;/a&gt;, Frame: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.makita.ca/index2.php?event=newaccessorydetailstemp&amp;amp;id=223&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Makita 193070-7&lt;/a&gt; &lt;sup&gt;†&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sander: &lt;a href=&quot;http://makitatools.com/en-us/Modules/Tools/ToolDetails.aspx?Name=9920&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Makita 9920&lt;/a&gt;, Frame: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.makita.ca/index2.php?event=newaccessorydetailstemp&amp;amp;id=223&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Makita 193071-5&lt;/a&gt; &lt;sup&gt;†&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sander: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tritontools.com/en-ZA/Model/TA1200BS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Triton TA1200BS&lt;/a&gt;, Frame: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tritontools.com/en-GB/Model/TBSIS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Triton TBSIS&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sander: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blackanddecker.com/products/power-tools/portable-power-tools/sanders/3-in-x-21-in-dragstertrade-belt-sander/ds321&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Black &amp;amp; Decker DS321&lt;/a&gt;, Frame: &lt;a href=&quot;http://servicenet.blackanddecker.com/Parts/Detail/216879&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Black &amp;amp; Decker 478705-00&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ereplacementparts.com/sanding-frame-p-99082.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;picture&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sander: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.festool.com/Products/Pages/Product-Detail.aspx?pid=570207&amp;amp;name=belt-sander-bs-75-e-set&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Festool BS 75&lt;/a&gt;, Frame: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.festool.com/Products/Accessories/Pages/Detail.aspx?pid=490827&amp;amp;name=Accessories-FSR-BS-75&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Festool FSR-BS 75&lt;/a&gt;, also part of the &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.festool.com/Products/Pages/Product-Detail.aspx?pid=570203&amp;amp;name=Belt-sander-BS-75-E-Plus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;E Set&lt;/a&gt;&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sander: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.festool.com/Products/Pages/Product-Detail.aspx?pid=570212&amp;amp;name=belt-sander-bs-105-e-set&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Festool BS 105&lt;/a&gt;, Frame: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.festool.com/Products/Accessories/Pages/Detail.aspx?pid=490828&amp;amp;name=Accessories-FSR-BS-105&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Festool FSR-BS 105&lt;/a&gt;, also part of the &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.festool.com/Products/Pages/Product-Detail.aspx?pid=570212&amp;amp;name=belt-sander-bs-105-e-set&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;E Set&lt;/a&gt;&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;sup&gt;†&lt;/sup&gt; Reportedly no longer officially available.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Black &amp;amp; Decker one is listed as a &quot;replacement part&quot; so I'm not sure if it actually comes with the sander or is an optional accessory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the current time, vendors for all of the above can be found fairly easily by searching the internet for the relevant model numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Evidence suggests that sander / frame pairs come and go, so it's entirely possible that the future will have a completely different set. There does not seem to be any historical consistency to which lines of sanders have frames available. Also, the prices vary wildly, from $15 USD to $150 USD, so you might want to shop around a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are frames for out-of-production sanders floating around as well. E.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00002232Q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here is a DeWalt frame&lt;/a&gt; for the DW430 and DW431 belt sanders. &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0000223H7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is a Bosch frame&lt;/a&gt; that fits the 1276D and 1276DVS. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0000223HA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This frame&lt;/a&gt; reportedly fits the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0000223HB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;1274DVS&lt;/a&gt;, which I'm assuming is the same setup you purchased in the past. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A note about sanding frames in general: While I've never owned one myself, reportedly the gotcha with sanding frames for large surfaces is that one side of the frame ends up sitting lower on the already-sanded part of the material. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.skileurope.com/ie/en/diyaccocs/accessories/1165/471/accessories-for-belt-sanders/_equalizer_-sanding-frame/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SKIL &quot;Equalizer&quot;&lt;/a&gt; presumably solves this issue (it's only half a frame, a fact they seem to be extremely proud of as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.skileurope.com/general/en/products/innovations/patented-equalizer-sanding-frame/patented-equalizer-sanding-frame.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;they patented it&lt;/a&gt;). So I guess you have to be careful about where you apply pressure, trying to prefer the unsanded side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2015-11-25T19:12:34.640" LastActivityDate="2015-11-25T19:12:34.640" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2825" CreationDate="2015-11-21T18:07:46.043" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For edge routing, you need &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toolboxbuzz.com/woodworking/shop-made-tools-router-table-fence/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a tall router-table fence&lt;/a&gt;. Clamped to your router table, this provides a perpendicular surface to guide your boards past the bit. As the linked should point out, the bit gets buried into the fence's surface (ather than trapping the workpiece between the bit and fence which would almost certainly cause a high-speed kickback situation -- dangerous), so the fence can be used to control the depth of the cut. Fingerboards are usually mounted to the table go help press the workpiece against the fence and bit to ensure constant cutting depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(As @AloysiusDefenestrate pointed out in the comments, in this case making the fencs with a notch at the bottom edge -- or just setting it on top of a spacer -- would let the trim slide underneath and contact the bit while the panel rides safely on the fence and bearing.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bd89O.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bd89O.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example of two-sided fence -- tall and short -- with bracing to hold the working faces at right angles to its base board and the table&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, a few afterthoughts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) If you wanted to freehand this, clamping a 2x4 level with the top of the trim would give you a wider surface to ride on. Less effective if the trim overhangs both sides, unless you cut a notch in that support board's top inner corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) If the right side of the fence is set back a hair from the bit while the left side is level with the bearing, you have essentially created a micro-jointer. (The fence I'm using now lets one side be shimmed out for just that sort of application.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) A horizontal router table, such as the ones used for &quot;production&quot; raised-panel work or mortising, would avoid the need to fight gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) The traditional, solution is to just grab a block plane and take off the excess that way... then, when you're close enough, switch to a sanding block for the last bit (which might be the case with the router too). Hand tools aren't always slower, especially when set-up time is considered!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks to the commenters; their input helped improve this answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2015-11-26T06:11:23.853" LastActivityDate="2015-11-26T06:11:23.853" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2818" CreationDate="2015-11-21T18:59:22.207" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The image you have came from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fieldmuseum.org/discover/on-exhibit/china/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Field Museum&lt;/a&gt; obviously. In trying to look for plans or a source as to what the floor was made of I found a &lt;a href=&quot;http://intectural.com/case-study-field-museum-chose-plyboo-bamboo-new-china-exhibit/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;case study&quot;&lt;/a&gt; from the manufacturer that talks about the wood used in the exhibit. The quote from the site reads like an ad but it does talk about the flooring specifically used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The exhibit also features &lt;strong&gt;PlybooStrand (Neopolitan) for the flooring&lt;/strong&gt;. Plyboo was a perfect fit for this exhibit, as it comes from the Moso bamboo forests of China. A sustainable building material, it is made from 100% FSC-certified bamboo, which is rapidly renewable and free of urea formaldehyde. Plyboo is also extremely durable, an important consideration for such a heavy-trafficked environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was easy after that to find the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.plyboo.com/products/plyboostrand-bamboo-flooring&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;product page for the flooring&lt;/a&gt; quoted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.plyboo.com/products/plyboostrand-bamboo-flooring&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nqXrnm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;PlybooStrand (Neopolitan)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image of PlybooStrand Neopolitan from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.plyboo.com/products/plyboostrand-bamboo-flooring&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;plyboo.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/users/306/treow-wyrhta&quot;&gt;Treow Wyrhta&lt;/a&gt;'s &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/2824/128&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt; shows this is not wood but an engineered wood product. So in this case there is no grey area about the wood in question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T18:08:31.660" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2825" CreationDate="2015-11-21T23:58:30.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For this particular situation, I would take your 2x4 or 6? fence and along the bottom notch or rabbet it to have a groove that is tall enough and deep enough to let the lip pass without obvious friction (on the bottom side facing the bit).  That way you can have a tall fence to push the board against keeping it straight and still let the lip pass freely to be trimmed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;even better than cutting this on your 'fence', would be to take another 2x4 and attaching it to the face of the fence raised just enough to let the lip pass, this way it can be adjusted, as well as reused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kind of like this for the face, leaving a space on the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XVUx1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XVUx1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2018-10-12T05:36:31.273" LastActivityDate="2018-10-12T05:36:31.273" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2832" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2834" CreationDate="2015-11-22T01:59:01.000" Score="5" ViewCount="794" Body="&lt;p&gt;They started clearing old ash trees from the lot where I work. There was lots of nice wood there so I took a couple pieces. One in particular a piece of green ash about 17&quot; in diameter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been of fan of traditional tools since I started wood working as a hobby. I don't have much in the way of flea markets in my immediate area so I am giving up hope of running into a froe after about 6 months of looking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently found out there was a really good junk yard that has all kinds of metals available. So I figured that I should be able to find what I was looking for there. Maybe even get him to help me with shaping it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem is that I don't know what we be a good choice. I understand the basic concept of a froe. Long edged blade with a handle. Typically wooden. I think what I need to worry about is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensuring the blade is straight. That means thickness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Able to take and hold a double edge. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Smith easy enough that you can create a loop on one end for a handle. (I have no intention of being able to in the near future.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the answer just steel? I feel it is steel but wonder, price aside, if there was another option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2015-11-23T03:39:31.527" Title="Finding the right metal for making a froe" Tags="|hand-tools|traditional-techniques|blade|milling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="123" CreationDate="2015-11-22T02:18:06.543" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can really rive &lt;em&gt;almost&lt;/em&gt; any wood. That statement is flawed as there are wood species, particularly those with long straight grain, that rive easier than others. It is important to know that &lt;strong&gt;species alone is not the key&lt;/strong&gt;. You want your wood to be straight and relatively free of defects like knots and branches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The size of the froe can also help determine what it is capable of. Smaller ones would be great for shingles. Larger ones &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be better suited for logs.  Wedges help if the blade is not as long as the work piece. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Walnut, and more specifically black walnut, is known for splitting very easily and very straight. You will see Roy Underhill praising this wood on occasion if you follow The Woodwright's Shop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On top of wood species and log selection there are two other tools that are essential when riving (The next more so than the one that follows). If the wood is large or wider than your fore then splitting chisels are your best friend to make sure that the split does not turn as you work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are doing longer logs or feel more conformable with the wood secured then a riving brake is very desirable.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trick with riving larger wood is to, gently if possible, twist the fore as you go to push the split down the wood. This can speed up the process and it is harder to push the fore when you can hit it dead on with the mallet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://pfollansbee.wordpress.com/2009/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Nh13.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Riving with a riving brake&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;https://pfollansbee.wordpress.com/2009/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pfollansbee.wordpress.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-11-23T16:09:31.513" LastActivityDate="2015-11-23T16:09:31.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2832" CreationDate="2015-11-22T02:58:24.157" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Leaf springs from the pick&amp;amp;pull junkyard. Already has an eyelet, reasonably straight, beefy, sharpen-able, ... what's not to like? Heck, just come by my yard and see what you want. (Though from the looks of it, you're 2,928 miles away. Maybe start driving soon.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T02:58:24.157" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2832" CreationDate="2015-11-22T04:25:19.467" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Leaf springs are by far the most popular retrieval from junkyards because they are made from carbon steel and have convenient, simple, useful shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leaf springs are made from a wide variety of different steels so there will be no way to know what you are dealing with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Axles are also good steel, although finding rod axles is harder and harder these days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A steel frame or hitch will not be as good because it will just be mild steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can judge a steel by using a propane torch on it. If it turns a rainbow of color, that is an indication it is good carbon steel. Any other result is bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T04:25:19.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2836" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-22T05:00:04.923" Score="4" ViewCount="1363" Body="&lt;p&gt;im making a cabinet (not the tradition type). &#xA;I will need a hinge for face frame type, with fully inset doors, and the frame and the door will only be 3/4&quot;. plus i only have 2 1/4&quot; of space from the edge of the frame to the side walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;here is an image to help imagine what im talking about, and with the actually measurements like i have above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c725I.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c725I.png&quot; alt=&quot;Pic&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1426" LastActivityDate="2017-03-24T22:15:32.473" Title="Advise on hinge type for face frame cabinet making" Tags="|cabinetry|door|hinges|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2837" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2840" CreationDate="2015-11-22T20:15:05.980" Score="14" ViewCount="79617" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2&quot; diameter, 11&quot; length dowel. I want to drill a 5/16&quot; hole exactly in the center of each end, 2&quot; min depth. It needs to be precise because it is for axles that the dowel needs to spin freely around without wobbling. I need to do both ends separately, not all the way through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I find the center and drill a hole there? (Note: I have one handheld rotary drill. I do not have a drill press. I have access to one if necessary but it is not convenient. I also have &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0061FY004&quot;&gt;these guides&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know how to find the center of rectangular boards, but not circles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2015-11-23T13:10:45.843" LastActivityDate="2022-04-11T16:31:11.540" Title="How do I drill a hole exactly in the center of a circle?" Tags="|technique|drilling|measurement|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2837" CreationDate="2015-11-22T20:54:50.170" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;My final solution was to just use a drill press to drill a 2&quot; hole with a forstner bit partway through a block of wood, then a 5/16&quot; hole the rest of the way, centered on the pilot hole from the forstner bit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cxk7W.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cxk7W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I just stick it on the end of the dowel and use it as a drill guide:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0ksV1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0ksV1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This worked well. It's not really sensitive to imperfections in the roundness, and since I have to go to a friend's shop to use the drill press, I only had to use the press once and now I can use my handheld drill at home for drilling the dowels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Marking Gauge&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prior to making the jig, I was at least able to find the center using an &lt;a href=&quot;http://incra.com/measuring_marking-incra_gauge.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Incra IG32&lt;/a&gt;, by setting it to 1&quot; (the radius):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JIFMn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JIFMn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Marking a line down the center:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oYlkg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oYlkg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then moving it and repeating:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9GgJx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9GgJx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made a third line just to verify (I was worried about the center notch in the gauge but the effect was negligible).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still need to drill the hole precisely but that's at least one working solution for marking. Any graduated marking gauge that you can set to the radius will do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Squares&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have two framing squares you could clamp them together in opposite directions to make a 1&quot; x 1&quot; (or whatever radius) square opening, line one up with the dowel edges, and the inside corner of the other will theoretically be the center, as long as you clamped your squares precisely. This should also work for finding the center of a circle drawn on something flat, unlike the dowel which is an actual, physical circle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2015-11-25T04:35:09.057" LastActivityDate="2015-11-25T04:35:09.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2837" CreationDate="2015-11-22T21:08:48.320" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use maths from school for this sort of thing. (I can't believe this stuff actually came in handy!)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All you need is a ruler and a square. You draw two or 3 base lines and then a perpendicular line from the exact centre of each - the intersection will be the centre of the circle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GwReC.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GwReC.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="282" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T21:08:48.320" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2837" CreationDate="2015-11-22T21:14:25.970" Score="17" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Finding the center&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Using Geometry&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of ways to do this. Since your dowel is big enough you can do this by hand relatively easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First would be to make 3 lines on the outside of the dowel the cross 2 different points along the circumference (each line). Then draw 3 perpendicular lines from the center of those lines. The point where all those lines intersect is the center of the circle. This picture makes way more sense than my words.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BZb36m.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BZb36m.png&quot; alt=&quot;Unknown theorum&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That seems like more work than it is worth though. Something simpler, that requires a square (or anything with a known 90 degree angle), called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mathopenref.com/constcirclecenter2.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thales' Theorem&lt;/a&gt;. This one is also easier to explain. Draw a right angle and the edge of the dowel. The sides from this angle will bisect the circumference of the dowel. Drawing a line between those two point will get the diameter. Repeating this process a second time (starting from another point.) will get you a second diameter. The point where the two diameters meet is your center. This is what I would do as I don't need to do this to often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wjUZt.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wjUZt.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Just use a tool&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A center square, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/2838/128&quot;&gt;or similar tool like the one in Jason's answer&lt;/a&gt; would work very quickly and efficiently and would take less time and be less error prone. If you need to be perfect every time and plan on doing this a lot than a center gauge, or similar tool, is the way to go. Press it up against the dowel and draw your line. Do this twice and you found your center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Might even be able to make a home brew version of this depending on your acceptable tolerance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A0q8U.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A0q8U.png&quot; alt=&quot;Center gauge&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Drilling the hole.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This might not work for your case but in general I would recommend using a drill press for something like this where accuracy is important. Take a deep block and drill a hole, with the press, that is the same diameter as your dowel. Hopefully your table moves down far enough. The depth of your block, if possible, should be close to the length of your dowel. Keep in mind that you still need to clamp it to the table but the deeper the hole the less error you will get from the dowel moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then place your dowel in this void. That will keep it perpendicular to the table. Use a punch to mark your center and then guide your drill into that hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2016-09-20T16:27:05.587" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2821" CreationDate="2015-11-22T22:37:12.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;All the information Matt provided on joinery is true and quality information.  I had a neighbor who built a similar project a few years ago and we ended up with a alternate solution that may be helpful in this situation considering the point you are at.  The metal brackets in your picture do not have any cross bracing and that is likely contributing to the instability.  Perhaps use a bracket with some cross bracing like these pictures.  Personally, for maximum stability, I would go with the wood bracket or something similar.  I would apply wood glue and then a few screws.  Don't go overboard with the screws on the wood brackets.  Their main purpose will be to clamp the brackets while the glue cures.  Their secondary purpose is as mechanical reinforcement.  If you go with a metal bracket, the screws provide all the bond so be sure the shank of the screw is the same size as the hole so there is no play in it.     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/367Wj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/367Wj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;metal bracket 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ff8w1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ff8w1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;wood bracket&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1427" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T22:37:12.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2832" CreationDate="2015-11-23T03:39:31.527" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other answers correctly state that leaf springs make excellent froes, especially if you can find ones with the eyes already attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, &lt;strong&gt;any kind of steel will work for a froe&lt;/strong&gt;. The edge isn't used for cutting wood and is only active at the very beginning of the splitting, otherwise it's the wedge that gets the job done. Thus, the steel has no need to hold an edge and therefore it does not need to be hardenable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2015-11-23T03:39:31.527" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2843" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-23T04:08:53.457" Score="5" ViewCount="2170" Body="&lt;p&gt;They started clearing old ash trees from the lot where I work. There was lots of nice wood there so I took a couple pieces. One in particular a piece of green ash (so I was told by the man cutting it down) about 17&quot; in diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put it in my mudroom outside (for I have no where else to put it really). I don't have the time or the tools right now that I want to process this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Checking in on my wood (just to admire it I suppose) I noticed after the first day that a crack was appearing through the center of the log. I thought it was odd but wasn't &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; surprised as that is supposed to happen over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ozzNK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ozzNK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;small crack&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has now been a week and and went to take another look and I was surprised this time to see a lot of radial checking? (I don't know if it has a real term.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CUmEW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CUmEW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ahhhhh Cracking&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I am new to processing and milling logs but I would have thought that should have taken longer to happen. That and the checking pattern is not something I have seen before. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Potential contributing factors that I can think of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recently cut&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stored outdoors but in enclosed space.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperatures are around 0 degrees Celsius (32 Fahrenheit )&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this what I should be expecting when working fresh green wood? Should I be working this the second it falls basically to stop this. I'm worried (probably more than I need to be, if any) that if I wait to long its going to crack even more and reduce the yield I can get from this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2019-12-11T07:39:15.273" LastActivityDate="2019-12-11T07:39:15.273" Title="When it comes to checking in logs what should I expect?" Tags="|green-wood|milling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2837" CreationDate="2015-11-23T09:15:53.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the precision is important but time less so; mount the dowel in the drill instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make the dowel spin and create a jig to make the end of the dowel not wobble.&#xA;Any point that does &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; make the centre point drill bit wobble is in centre of the dowel and aligned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one uses a knife, or similar, to mark the centre one can possibly dig-carve-drill a &lt;em&gt;cone shaped hole&lt;/em&gt;; before inserting the drill bit.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This drill bit then only has to penetrate a few millimetres to be steadily centred.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The &lt;em&gt;next&lt;/em&gt; step is how to be aligned/perpendicular but that is another question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastEditorUserId="400" LastEditDate="2015-11-24T11:24:27.837" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T11:24:27.837" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2843" CreationDate="2015-11-23T11:01:17.403" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Checking in on my wood (just to admire it I suppose) I noticed after the first day that a crack was appearing through the center of the log. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A through-the-centre crack, also a from-the-centre crack, is referred to as a &lt;em&gt;heart shake&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I thought it was odd but wasn't really surprised as that is supposed to happen over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually it can be almost completely avoided. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you take green wood, i.e. wood from a tree that was alive when it was cut down, and you don't want to use it straight away the end grain should be sealed ASAP to prevent/minimise cracking due to fast moisture loss. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to seal the end grain if you don't want to use one of the (expensive) commercial sealers is using melted wax. Any candle wax, canning wax or plain old beeswax will work about equally. Note: online it is frequently suggested that a thick coating of 'latex' paint (UK: emulsion) will do for this job but as a rule this type of paint is actually a terrible moisture seal. Wax is many times more effective. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you don't seal end grain you virtually guarantee some type of cracking on wood of any real size. If you seal end grain properly however you can reduce it by up to 95%; this is on average, sometimes you'll get lucky and no cracks at all will form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It has now been a week and and went to take another look and I was surprised this time to see a lot of radial checking? (I don't know if it has a real term.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are &lt;em&gt;checks&lt;/em&gt;, cracks that form along the radius of the log. This is probably the most common type of cracking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it doesn't have to form when the wood is still a log, even after a board has been separated from the log a radial crack is still a check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2015-11-24T10:11:52.400" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T10:11:52.400" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2825" CreationDate="2015-11-23T14:24:19.770" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think a &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/2828/1250&quot;&gt;tall fence&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/2831/1250&quot;&gt;with a gap for trim&lt;/a&gt;, is the best solution, but I also had great success with the following experiment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to solve the setup problem of aligning the fence with the flush trim bit so I constructed a single point-of-contact fence instead, that uses the guide bearing on the trim bit as the second contact point:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5oQxo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5oQxo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QbK5I.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QbK5I.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a 1/8&quot; spacer under the feather board and fence to let the trim slide through. The big dowel doesn't rotate; I put some paste wax on the contact edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a video of it in use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TqpUxKl5dTU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://img.youtube.com/vi/TqpUxKl5dTU/mqdefault.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Video thumbnail&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;YouTube&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest issue is the very end, after the plywood passes the contact point, is a bit tricky and requires some finesse (this is the sole reason why I think the tall straight fence is the more proper solution). The other issue is since there's no depth control you can't make light passes first, you have no choice but to take the whole thing down at once; I had one piece splinter a bit from a large cutting getting caught up on the way through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just chop off the short bits on the end with a flush saw afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some construction notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I was able to bolt it into the existing mounting holes for my fence plus one for stabilization. There are tee nuts under the table.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 1/8&quot; spacer under the fence is just a piece of MDF cut to the same profile as the top/bottom then with a bit chopped off. It is not glued and can be removed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I trimmed the bit of the top/bottom around the dowel after construction to make sure it was flush with the dowel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is a very small bit of flex perpendicular to the support board, it is not enough to have an effect, but it would stabilize it greatly to add a second small board perpendicular to that one. Alternatively, the support board could be oriented perpendicular to the path the piece takes so that any flex is in the plane of travel and doesn't affect the vertical orientation of the piece.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am going to make a proper tall fence as well, and I am going to cut holes on either side of the bit gap to allow a flat piece of scrap to be temporarily clamped over the gap to help with alignment (rotate fence until bearing hits scrap). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dowel thing seems to be working well however, and requires zero setup time aside from attaching it to the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2015-11-23T15:32:04.313" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2847" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2848" CreationDate="2015-11-23T15:53:39.350" Score="6" ViewCount="26101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put an epoxy resin on a table top and it looks awesome except for a few spots that bubbled or had dust fall on it. I would like to sand the top down smooth/level and put a thin layer of lacquer on top. I would like to use spray lacquer. Will this stick? Or should I use a different method. I am limited to about 2 days to work on this table before it needs to be used for the holidays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update (Seven years later):&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;The good news is that the table is still in use today! However, I have had some issues with it, and I'm not sure if it's because of the combination of epoxy and lacquer or because I applied it incorrectly. The main issue I've had is when I clean it with a cleaning solution (mild antibacterial). It seems to create a white haze that sort of peels off when I wipe it. Kind of like when you peel off a sticker and you have to scrub to get that sticky stuff off after. Once it's wiped off and dry, you can't tell there was an issue. Again, this may be due to user error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1172" LastEditorUserId="1172" LastEditDate="2022-12-21T14:26:38.573" LastActivityDate="2022-12-21T14:26:38.573" Title="Can I use lacquer over an epoxy resin?" Tags="|finishing|finish-selection|surface-preparation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2847" CreationDate="2015-11-23T19:40:46.767" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lacquer can stick to epoxy. How secure the bond is depends on a few factors but if you provide a textured surface for a mechanical bond to form — as you do when you sand — that gives the best chance for a reliable result. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should caution that people have had very mixed results trying to repair/restore the surface of epoxy with varnish and lacquer. At worst apparently the scratches remain clearly visible in the epoxy surface underneath the topcoat, they don't get 'wetted' by the topcoat as they would if you were applying over a layer of the same finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally this would mean I'd recommend you do a test or two but you don't have the time so I would either live with the blemishes for now, or just bite the bullet and go for it with the lacquer and hope for the best. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-11-23T19:40:46.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2852" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2853" CreationDate="2015-11-24T14:36:19.980" Score="12" ViewCount="120817" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I speed up stain drying with a hair dryer or a heat gun?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any reason not to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it matters: In my case Minwax Wood Finish or Varathane brand, oil based, not gel, referring to all coats including first (that's as specific as I want to get for this question). And by &quot;drying&quot; I mean getting it to the point where I can gently handle it without marring the surface or sticking to it, e.g. flipping it over to get the other side, not having dust stick to it (being able to brush it off without wiping off stain) etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2015-11-24T15:49:40.813" LastActivityDate="2018-11-11T08:04:13.843" Title="Can I speed up stain drying with a hair dryer?" Tags="|finishing|technique|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2852" CreationDate="2015-11-24T16:30:49.613" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes if you blow air (especially heated air) over various oil-based finishes they will dry faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there any reason not to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hairdryer first: you're unlikely to cause a problem unless you get really close (nozzle only an inch or so/couple of cm from the wood surface) and it fits the bill theoretically, but you'd die of boredom before you see any benefit. You could in theory set up a hairdryer on a stand blowing over the piece and leaving it for a couple of hours but they're not made for that kind of sustained use and I bet you'd burn out the average modern hairdryer in short order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heat gun: this can easily cause a problem. With the typical temperatures these can generate you could accidentally heat the piece past the point where water will start to be released from the surface wood fibres, and it will literally start to bubble through the finish. I've accidentally done this using a hairdryer (being impatient and speed-curing epoxy fills on finished tool handles) so no question it would be even easier with a heat gun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where you do see the basic idea applied successfully is using fan heaters. Typically they'd be set up a few feet/a metre or so from the piece and blowing warmed air over it. In cooler weather, particularly if it's not dry, this can make a big difference in the drying of some finishes so it can be well worth experimenting with if you have an unheated shop or working space. Note though that there is quite some risk of the currents of air disturbing sanding dust from some hidden corner and making it airborne, and you can bet it will unerringly find its way to the finished surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T16:30:49.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2843" CreationDate="2015-11-24T16:47:14.547" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ends of a log dry out much faster than the center.  What to do about it partly depends on the size (length) of the log and your intentions.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The picture makes the log look pretty short, 2-3 ft?  For short logs I tend to split them in half.  It seems to increase the surface area for releasing moisture from the center where it generally releases slowest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've spent years splitting firewood with a maul so I tend to use that tool for such work, when I'm in practice I can 'draw' a line across the log.  If as in your case I have a big split happening, I use that as the mark to do the first main split, since it generally makes it easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I leave a lot of them that way to dry and it reduces how deep the checking gets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Graphus pointed out sealing the ends will reduce checking significantly and while there are many products available to do so, I've found just regular paint can slow it down enough to make it more manageable.  Some depends on how much you need to save from the log for your boards.  In general you should expect to lose 1 - 2 inches from each end to different damage from drying, unless you seal it immediately (and even there don't think you'll ever get to 100% saved).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sealing slows down the drying process for the moisture to more evenly leave the log at the same rate, reducing the stresses and splitting/checking that happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately what you want is the log to dry as evenly as possible across as much of the wood as possible.  This is why splitting the log can help.  The smaller the pieces are the more surface area to volume you get as well, allowing for faster more even drying.  It takes much longer for a cup of water to evaporate, than if you spill it across the kitchen floor.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2015-11-24T16:52:08.007" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T16:52:08.007" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2673" CreationDate="2015-11-24T18:45:26.487" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;So after continuing to struggle with this, I found some good advice &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?58147-Shellac-on-large-surfaces&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;in a forum thread&lt;/a&gt; on the topic in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?58147-Shellac-on-large-surfaces&amp;amp;p=587777#post587777&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this great post by user Steve Schoene&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;On 05-19-2007 Steve Schoene writes:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem often is trying to think of shellac as if it were varnish. It's easy to apply, but requires a different technique and mind set. With varnish you flow it on, and even it out--the process is one of smooth and easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With shellac, unless you spray, you can't just put on an even spread, you have to make shellac's particular characteristics--quick drying and complete fusing between &amp;quot;coats&amp;quot;, and fairly easy sanding work for you, not against.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First don't try too heavy a coating with 1 1/2 to 2 lb. &amp;quot;cut&amp;quot; being the most user friendly. You can use a pad, which is made with a fine weave fabric such as white cotton percale sheeting, wrapped around a bundle of anything absorbant. The pad should be about egg size and have no wrinkles on the surface. (This is similar to French polishing pads, but no oil is needed, nor any particular skill.) You just apply shellac with the pad, working quickly and never going back over an area to fix a missed spot or overlap. You want to apply thin and fairly even coats, but don't obsess over it. Just fully damp, not flowing coats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can build a finish a little faster with a brush. I strongly prefer watercolor wash brushes (about 1 1/2&amp;quot; wide is enough for anything). The best bristles are Golden Taklon which are very fine and leave zero brush strokes. The brush doesn't hold a lot, so you never get really heavy coats. Again, you work very quickly, ignoring misses or overlaps. Just try not to miss the same place or overlap in the same place on subsequent coats. These little misses and laps will even out in the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can apply a number of coats 3 or 4 for example, and then let it dry more thoroughly and lightly sand to level out the surface. Then apply a few more &amp;quot;coats&amp;quot; and level again with sand paper as you need to. (You do not need to sand between coats for adhesion, only to level out problems.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Never let either pad or brush drag. If you notice any dragginess STOP immediately and let the surface dry more thoroughly before proceeding with another coat. If you ignore this you risk getting a &amp;quot;rumpled&amp;quot; mess. (It will sand out after drying overnight, but it's not pleasant.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you have built to the thickness you desire, you can level with a fairly fine grit 600 and then 1000 or 1200 and proceed to either pumice (for satin sheen) or to rottenstone (for gloss). Rubbing compounds also work well. You should give at least several days or a week before rubbing out--not nearly the month you should wait before rubbing out varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, the tip I learned the most from there is to never go back and fix missed spots; just let the next coat cover them, taking advantage of shellac's good fusing of coats. It also hits on some of the things mentioned in both the other answers currently here (the &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/2675/1250&quot;&gt;uniqueness of shellac&lt;/a&gt; and the &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/2674/1250&quot;&gt;use of pads&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following the advice in the post above left me with a much nicer finish on the last piece I put shellac on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, of some use here, here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-to/article/mixing-shellac.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;nice table of dilution ratios for diluting premixed shellac&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cspgk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cspgk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T18:51:28.330" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2015-11-24T18:45:26.487" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2856" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2857" CreationDate="2015-11-24T19:41:01.787" Score="6" ViewCount="1140" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a lacquered table top with some minor dust specs sitting in the surface of the lacquer. I don't want to sand it down and reapply more lacquer. Can I use a super fine sand paper (what grain?) to get rid of the dust without causing any issues? The surface is a satin finish so it doesn't need to be crystal clear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1172" LastActivityDate="2015-11-30T18:28:48.037" Title="Sanding the final coat of lacquer?" Tags="|finishing|technique|sanding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2856" CreationDate="2015-11-24T19:54:03.803" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try &quot;sanding&quot; it with a brown paper bag. That will be just abrasive enough to knock loose any dust nibs. It may polish the surface, though; try it on an inconspicuous area first to make sure you're happy with the result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Warning: this may increase the shine of the surface; depending on your needs that could be either good or bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(It did a fine job on the table I recently refinished, but that was glossy oil poly.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2015-11-30T18:28:48.037" LastActivityDate="2015-11-30T18:28:48.037" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2337" CreationDate="2015-11-25T15:20:14.413" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lag bolts would probably be easiest and are typically used on college dorm type loft beds.  Ultimately, it depends on your design and the spans and weights you need to accommodate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1444" LastActivityDate="2015-11-25T15:20:14.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2337" CreationDate="2015-11-25T19:18:23.000" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built my daughter a loft bed. I used 4x4 posts for the corner posts and cut out dados for 2x4s to sit in connect everything. To hold the 2x4 into the dado I drilled holes and used lag bolts with washers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my design I put 2 2x4s on each end and 2 2x4s on one side but only 1 2x4 on the other so she can use the space under the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She's 13 and I purposely overbuilt the thing so a couple of kids or her and a parent could safely be up there. It works well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1445" LastActivityDate="2015-11-25T19:18:23.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2860" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2861" CreationDate="2015-11-26T04:16:24.743" Score="5" ViewCount="1482" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a worktable using pre-laminated melamine on particleboard, and have just finished 'adjusting' the size for the 3rd or so time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tabletop came slightly over 4x8 (and not at all square). I wanted it slightly smaller than 4x8 and tried to cut a strip off the side and end using a SKIL saw with the fence attachment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cuts are off by over 1/4&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know some machining, I'm no stranger to working accurately, but for some reason never can cut large stock like this accurately.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whats the best way to cut this?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Available Tools:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;decent quality contractors saw, probably not wide enough for this job, with roller stands and an outfeed table&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;circular saw (SKIL saw) with a fence&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;radial arm saw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just wondering how come my work's so inaccurate all the time (which  is probably a big kettle of fish) grrr....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1448" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2015-11-28T13:50:55.243" LastActivityDate="2015-12-03T15:59:12.413" Title="Accurately cutting large (4x8) stock to size" Tags="|technique|cutting|tolerance|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2860" CreationDate="2015-11-26T04:53:40.783" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Measure, mark, place fence, &lt;em&gt;measure again before you cut&lt;/em&gt;. E.g. stick your circular saw on the piece like you're about to start, mark the blade position, check with a tape measure before pulling the trigger and adjust fence to correct. Check again after adjusting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With just a circular saw for cuts like that measure distance from edge of blade (remember, blade is not infinitely thin) to edge of guide, draw a line with a square where you want to cut, move over by the blade-to-guide distance you just measured and draw another line. Clamp a long straight board along that line as a fence and ride the guide up the fence with the circular saw, double checking that the blade edge is at your cut line before you start. If you want, use a framing square to double check that your fence is clamped at 90 degrees before cutting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also if you have 48&quot; and want 45, measure 45, don't measure 3 and try to cut it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your stock isn't square trim both sides like this, squaring each off &lt;em&gt;the same edge&lt;/em&gt;. Always pick one edge as a reference edge and square the other 3 off that. Use a straightedge to check your reference edge first, if you want, and if it's not straight, trim it straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might find &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/tools/reviews/a3602/4283497/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this guide&lt;/a&gt; useful. Describes a really simple and useful circular saw guide. Nice thing about that one is it shows you exactly where the blade edge is. If you switch blades to one with a different kerf you might want to make another base (narrower) or run the saw over the guide once after changing (wider) for an accurate edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also if you're using a tape measure start from the 1&quot; mark instead of the floppy metal end and remember to subtract 1 when reading. That's not your 1/4&quot; but it can sometimes be 1/32&quot; or so, esp. for cheaper tape measures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could use your table saw if it has enough capacity but I think a circular saw is an easier tool to work with for this kind of stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2015-11-26T17:31:32.100" LastActivityDate="2015-11-26T17:31:32.100" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2188" CreationDate="2015-11-26T14:42:14.307" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;More often than not the cam catches on the front where it is chamfered off. It's likely the cam pin has bent through over tightening it and if straightened can cure your problem. If it still catches it can be rectified by removing the cam pin again and rounding the chamfer off. Just be careful when removing the pin you don't break the lever cap, it should tap out with gentle persuasion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1452" LastActivityDate="2015-11-26T14:42:14.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2860" CreationDate="2015-11-28T20:24:26.947" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;More of a general comment than an answer: if you are going to use large (4x8) pieces for a project such as the melamine laminate,buy and get the piece cut at Home Depot or a store with a panel cutter, save yourself the hassle of cutting it yourself. If you have to cut it yourself, you have to have a straightedge at least as long as the longest dimension you are cutting, no way around that!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="410" LastActivityDate="2015-11-28T20:24:26.947" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2865" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-29T05:16:58.313" Score="9" ViewCount="14347" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was going to ask this question after getting some misleading information from my can of poly, other questions and answers here and from my own experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I never understood was why should I not shake the can? The instructions from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.minwax.ca/wood-products/interior-clear-protective-finishes/minwax-fastdrying-polyurethane&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Minwax's website&lt;/a&gt; don't really explain why, but state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;Stir Minwax® Fast-Drying Polyurethane&lt;/b&gt; before and during use to eliminate settling on the bottom of the can. Stir in such a manner as to rotate the product from the bottom to the top of the can. &lt;b&gt;NEVER SHAKE&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;sup&gt;emphasis mine&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Barring spilling the product all over the place; what am I risking if I shake the can?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2021-01-07T17:46:02.717" LastActivityDate="2021-01-07T17:46:02.717" Title="Why shouldn't I shake my can of polyurethane?" Tags="|finishing|technique|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2865" CreationDate="2015-11-29T05:16:58.313" Score="9" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Apparently it's the bubbles&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The concern is that the agitation of the can will create bubbles. Brushing poly will transfer those bubbles to the work and there will be a good chance they will dry/cure in place. That would of course ruin the work or extend the finishing process as you would have to sand an reapply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;That is sort of right.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a great article that &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/2509/128&quot;&gt;Graphus&lt;/a&gt; linked my too that covers &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/The_7_Myths_of_Polyurethane&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;7 Myths of Polyurethane&lt;/a&gt;. No sense copying the entire portion of that post here but the main points are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is true that bubbles can cause issues. Bubble creation is inevitable though whether you shake the can or not. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using the brush you are going to create bubbles regardless with agitation. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most bubbles will naturally pop. A recommended step with poly is to lightly brush back (also called tipping-off). That should remove the rest of the bubbles. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you still have bubbles after that you can still lightly wipe something like mineral spirits over the surface to dissolve the bubbles. Used in moderation this will not negatively affect any of the finish work done thus far. &lt;em&gt;Worst case&lt;/em&gt; a light sanding with very fine sandpaper (400 or greater) should help. In my experience I would avoid sanding as to not remove too much finish by accident. Rarely would I still expect bubbles at this point).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are going to get bubbles in any event. Does that mean you should run the can of poly in a paint mixer? Probably no. However as long as you know how to deal with the bubbles and clean them before the finish sets you are not going to have any issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-11-29T05:16:58.313" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="265" CreationDate="2015-11-30T14:35:14.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are doing works well, but after an initial adjustment it should not be necessary to adjust the fence angle if the bandsaw is well tuned and the blade is tracking properly. It can be a little difficult to get the tracking just right if your BS wheels uses tires with a  crown on them, but it is very doable using a micrometer to locate the blade exactly in the center. Two different ways to get a similar result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I liked your auxiliary fence which makes it easy to clamp to the stock fence without interference. A great idea!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you so much&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1430" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-11-30T14:50:31.663" LastActivityDate="2015-11-30T14:50:31.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2337" CreationDate="2015-11-30T17:30:27.777" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if this would apply to your design but I have found these types of fasteners very useful when making a take-down bed frame. They hold very well and provide an easy method for take-down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mVezy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mVezy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Fastener&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1172" LastActivityDate="2015-11-30T17:30:27.777" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2869" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2870" CreationDate="2015-11-30T20:13:27.820" Score="9" ViewCount="1636" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to come up with a joint that I can use for a frame that will have beveled inside corners, where I can cut the bevels cleanly on my router, and that isn't a miter (I don't want the 45 degree seam, I want a 90 degree seam).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only joint I can really think of is this (inside bevel on horizontal piece not shown because it's not really significant to the joint):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w8bmO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w8bmO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: Does this joint have a name? I know I've seen it before, but I couldn't find anything in image searches, and unless I overlooked it I don't see it on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.core77.com/posts/43001/Reference-The-Ultimate-Wood-Joint-Visual-Reference-Guide&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this huge list of joints&lt;/a&gt;, either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2015-12-01T23:22:04.863" LastActivityDate="2015-12-03T15:35:49.720" Title="Does this butt joint with a beveled profile have a name?" Tags="|joinery|terminology|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2869" CreationDate="2015-11-30T21:08:29.480" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a coped joint.  You make it by cutting the adjoining piece at a 45 degree angle, then using the cut line as guide to remove the area below the line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yexof.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yexof.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Coped Molding&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an image of how to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oFhVI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oFhVI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-11-30T21:08:29.480" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2871" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2881" CreationDate="2015-12-01T04:22:14.547" Score="3" ViewCount="4430" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm very new to table saws, and am having trouble getting a clean cut. The blade cuts fine most of the time, but every once in a while something goes wrong and I'll get a big gouge in the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of what I mean, done on the thinner edge of a 2x4:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r0JJw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r0JJw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;gouge&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've measured the depth of the gouge, and it's 15 thou. That seems really extreme, especially considering how smooth and perfect the rest of the cut is. This kind of gouge makes fine furniture impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the table saw is correctly aligned; that's the first thing I did when I got it. The fence is parallel to the blade, and the arbor has practically no run-out. A splitter was set-up behind the blade, and the blade I used was brand spanking new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a video of me making the cut shown earlier, so you can see my set-up and feed rate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mr-1Yj9Ra44&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mr-1Yj9Ra44&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways, from what I can tell, the blade vibrated/wobbled a bit and that's what caused the gouge. I could probably reduce the chance of this happening by cutting in several passes, but when I tried that before I still got the occasional gouge. Any ideas on how I can fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1091" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2015-12-01T04:49:08.027" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T23:21:33.387" Title="How to prevent table saw blade vibration gouges?" Tags="|technique|table-saw|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2873" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2874" CreationDate="2015-12-01T10:08:43.643" Score="2" ViewCount="136" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some old furniture that I recovered a while ago. It had some missing parts (holes, etc) that I filled with white repair product. I than painted it solid white. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I now want to change it. I would want to give it an old wooden like look. A bit like white wash. How can I achieve this look?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1469" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T10:53:31.390" Title="How to achieve a nice wooden like pattern with a white wash look?" Tags="|wood|paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2873" CreationDate="2015-12-01T10:53:31.390" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not certain what look you're after exactly without a pic as guidance but I'll suggest a couple of alternatives. &lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; in both of the suggested approaches below the filled areas will become visible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first approach is to create a look similar to &lt;em&gt;liming&lt;/em&gt; and you actually have a good start with the white paint you've already applied. You sand (or otherwise abrade, e.g. using Scotch-Brite or steel wool) until it exposes wood, with the white paint naturally left in the grain and recesses. Here are two examples of the effect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I5LAj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I5LAj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Limed wood examples&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're after a more uniform look than this will provide I'm afraid you're in for a lot more work. The first job would be to completely strip the furniture back to bare wood using chemical striper, heat gun + scraper or by sanding (I don't recommend the last method unless it's your only option). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you're down to bare wood you would then brush on dilute paint, or apply the paint normally and then wipe away the excess with a cloth to leave a thin film. This can give slightly different effects depending on how thin the paint is, the colour of the wood etc. but here are two examples of how it can look:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zRuLD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zRuLD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Whitewash examples&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Protective coating&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;With either method above it is advisable to apply a surface coating to help protect the furniture: the exposed wood in the first case and the thin, easily-damaged paint in the second case. Normal varnish is quite yellowish and will impart a slight amber tone to the white. If you don't mind the pieces becoming a sort of cream/ivory colour then go with a couple of thin wiped-on coats of regular oil-based polyurethane or other varnish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To keep the colour as white as possible you need a 'water-white' finish, which in practice means either a waterbased varnish or lacquer. Waterbased poly is probably your simplest and cheapest option here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people apply wax to the surface on this type of thing but it's really a very poor protective layer and I would only recommend it for a light-use item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T10:53:31.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2871" CreationDate="2015-12-01T13:04:26.200" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possible reason:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Hard to say but your hands shifted so the wood is not evenly pressured left/right throughout the cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible solution 1:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Install a feather board to press hold the wood in place right/left-wise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible solution 2:&#xA;Cut it half a saw blade too thick and do another cut at the exact width. Though the blade might flex then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T13:04:26.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2871" CreationDate="2015-12-01T14:09:07.583" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The blade cuts fine most of the time, but every once in a while something goes wrong and I'll get a big gouge in the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, this isn't really a big gouge.  When you're running a board through your saw, there are a couple things that could happen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your hand could slip and not press the wood tight on the fence, making it jump into the blade a bit&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The wood could relieve some internal tension, pulling itself away from the fence and into the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The fence is parallel to the blade, and the arbor has practically no run-out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Practically no runout&quot; is not &quot;no runout.&quot;  I suspect that a little bit of runout is at work here too, in addition to what I highlighted above.  Also, if you have a cheap, thin blade, it could be wobbling during the cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at your video, you have a more &quot;contractor-grade&quot; table saw.  These are not truly meant for fine woodworking tasks, so some level of slop is expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Here's a video of me making the cut shown earlier, so you can see my set-up and feed rate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You seem to be running the board through your saw &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; slowly.  Unless you're cutting a very hard wood (or your blade is very dull), there's no reason to feed that slow.  That pine board should be cut in about 3-5 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This kind of gouge makes fine furniture impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, it doesn't.  You'll just need an additional step to clean up the gouge when it happens, such as giving it a few swipes with a smoothing plane or sanding it.  A fifteen-thou gouge is no big deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Understand that &lt;strong&gt;your table saw will not make a surface that is ready for finishing&lt;/strong&gt;.  The table saw is for breaking down wood into the sizes you need and getting the dimensions correct.  You will need to do the final finishing with sandpaper, scraping, planing, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-12-01T14:15:03.817" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T14:15:03.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2877" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-01T14:53:46.463" Score="4" ViewCount="193" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some furniture painted in white. I would now like to paint, on top of the current color, a wooden like pattern. Which technique can I use to achieve this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1469" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-12-02T22:21:25.160" LastActivityDate="2017-08-28T11:36:23.173" Title="How can I create a wood-like pattern in white-painted furniture?" Tags="|furniture|paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2871" CreationDate="2015-12-01T16:03:50.920" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with @grfrazee for saying that a table saw won't make a surface ready for finishing. I don't know if it's possible for you but in basically any professional joinery shop or similar that I've seen, ripping to size is a rough-cut operation, which is always followed by (at the very least) belt sanding, or more commonly a run to finished size through a planer/thicknesser or moulder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking on ebay a thicknesser/jointer can be had for around £200 or possibly less if you go second hand, though I can't attest to how good one would be at that price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An added bonus with a thicknesser is that you can get the finished dimensions of the timber to be very accurate, usually within about 0.05-0.1mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T16:03:50.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2877" CreationDate="2015-12-01T16:29:41.650" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you want is called a &quot;wood graining tool&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8ByHd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8ByHd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;wood grain tool&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic idea is to use a darker color stain on top of a lighter color.  You rock the tool back and forth to create the knot look of real wood grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is commonly used to apply gel stain to a metal or fiberglass door to give a wood look, but can also be used in other situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are tons of videos and instructions online to use the tool now that you know what its called.  It does take practice, but can give good results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1286" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T16:29:41.650" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2869" CreationDate="2015-12-01T16:47:47.863" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Making frames like this is typically done with a &quot;Stile and Rail&quot; router bit set.  The bits come in many different configurations and can vary wildly in price, but this is how door and window frames are made.  The additional tongue and groove provide a lot of extra strength that your diagram doesn't show.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They come in many different profiles, and the image below is just a random sampling sold by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mlcswoodworking.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.mlcswoodworking.com&lt;/a&gt; (no implied endorsement - never used them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Graphus pointed out in a comment, this really &lt;em&gt;isn't&lt;/em&gt; a coped joint.  I'm not sure that it has a name other than &quot;stile and rail joint&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tWGKd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tWGKd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1286" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T16:47:47.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2871" CreationDate="2015-12-01T22:34:33.070" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took a long look at my table saw today and was able to find two things wrong:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The splitter was too close to the fence.&lt;/strong&gt; This was causing friction between the board and the fence, making it hard for me to push the board through. This was part of the reason why I was feeding the wood so slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The blade was angled very slightly towards the fence.&lt;/strong&gt; I thought I had it set to exactly 90 degrees, but I was wrong! I've heard that having the blade on a negative angle like this makes kickback more likely, so chances are it makes gouges more likely too.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I fixed all of these things, then re-cut the 32 feet I needed. This time, I had the blade raised slightly higher, and I fed at a faster rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result? &lt;strong&gt;No more 15 thou gouges!&lt;/strong&gt; The wood is now very smooth and usable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1091" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T22:34:33.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2882" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2885" CreationDate="2015-12-02T14:28:27.863" Score="8" ViewCount="4552" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few times, I have seen partially-overlapping horizontal boards, creating a larger panel. For example, I've seen this done on the walls of some wooden houses. I would like to know if there is a joint between these boards, or they are just nailed / glued together. I didn't get the impression a tongue and groove were involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alas, I've been unable to find a picture online. Anyone can answer this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="539" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T17:24:52.473" Title="Joining partially-overlapping boards into panel" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2882" CreationDate="2015-12-02T14:41:03.453" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you're talking about shiplapped boards. This is done mostly to allow for the fact that boards will expand and shrink across the grain as they gain and lose moisture. If you fastened the boards together, this change in size could add  enough to significantly change the size of the panel; if you just put them next to each other then when they shrink there may be visible gaps between them. Shiplapping and fastening the boards only at the center of their long ends permits them to move while never opening a gap. Some styles of shiplapping are decorative as well, and those may further hide the motion by having it occur within a &quot;shadow line&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="272" LastEditDate="2016-02-25T17:24:52.473" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T17:24:52.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2882" CreationDate="2015-12-02T14:44:51.360" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A few times, I have seen partially-overlapping horizontal boards, creating a larger panel. For example, I've seen this done on the walls of some wooden houses. I would like to know if there is a joint between these boards, or they are just nailed / glued together. I didn't get the impression a tongue and groove were involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without having a picture to go on, I'm going to take a guess as to what kind of joint you're describing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shiplap Joint&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TFGPV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TFGPV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;shiplap&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/making-rabbet-joints-router/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This type of joint has two boards with matching rabbets on opposing faces and was commonly used in (you guessed it) ship hulls.  In ship construction, these were normally pegged with &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Treenail&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;trunnels&lt;/a&gt;.  In furniture, they may or may not be glued, depending on how the ends are fixed to the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often times the &quot;show&quot; side of the joint will have a decorative bead, which helps to hide the joint.  I couldn't find a suitable picture of this, but the one below (shaped in a solid piece, so not actually a shiplap) shows the effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/syBUxm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/syBUxm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bead&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rlco.com/products.php?category_id=13&amp;amp;id=35&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Splined Joint&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lYkuR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lYkuR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;splined&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.table-saw-guide.com/spline-joint.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These joints use a long spline to reinforce the butt joint and keep the boards aligned.  Usually these are glued in place, so it may not be what you're seeing.  Also, I doubt a house framer would go to the trouble of splining all the boards for a wall, but you never know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-12-02T14:50:08.180" LastActivityDate="2015-12-02T14:50:08.180" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2882" CreationDate="2015-12-02T20:30:15.173" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds to me like you are describing bevel or clapboard siding. For a long time it was the &quot;go to&quot; siding for wooden houses in the US. Bevel siding was usually made of clear red cedar and came in various widths from as narrow as 4&quot; with about 3&quot; exposed, to 8&quot; or 10&quot; with 7&quot; or 9&quot;exposed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it could be one of the others depicted in this diagram from&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to Buy Wood Board Siding&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;by Don Vandervort, HomeTips © 1997-2015&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V8vYA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V8vYA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(by the way when you pronounce clapboard the p is normally silent.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2015-12-02T20:30:15.173" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2886" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-02T22:10:41.993" Score="6" ViewCount="9306" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a couple of burls I've harvested from some trees on my family's property that will make nice turnings and knife scales.  There are probably some voids in there and the wood is probably a little soft or prone to cracking if I try to machine it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Commercial wood stabilization systems are &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/16/6049/Hold-Fast-Vacuum-Stabilization-Chamber-Kit-w-Vacuum-Generator&quot;&gt;pretty dang expensive&lt;/a&gt;.  We've had a couple questions on &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2141/what-is-wood-stabilization&quot;&gt;what stabilization is&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/9/how-can-you-stabilize-green-wood-after-turning-it-on-a-lathe?rq=1&quot;&gt;stabilizing green wood&lt;/a&gt; (that one not really related to my question), but no questions on how to do it cheaply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there a more homebrew (read: cheap) way to stabilize wood?&lt;/strong&gt;  I'm talking about the system where you submerge the piece in resin, draw a vacuum, and bake the piece to set the resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already have a toaster oven that would work for baking the pieces, and I assume the resin is an unavoidable cost.  What I'm missing is the vacuum chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T14:54:02.243" Title="Wood Stabilization on the Cheap" Tags="|turning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-03T02:28:24.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In trade school we sharpened tools on a fine sanding wheel, like a 16 in grindstone. I leaves a slightly concave surface on the angled side, and left a tiny burr on the flat side. Using a fine oil stone and honing only the angled side until the burr came off as a shiny thread, and we were done. We then checked to see if we could shave some hair off our wrist. about 99% of the time we could. Two very important things the edge of the blade has to be straight and square, and sharpen slowly enough so the metal does not overheat and turn blue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1383" LastActivityDate="2015-12-03T02:28:24.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2869" CreationDate="2015-12-03T15:35:49.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the &quot;rail and stile&quot; look what is important or could you bevel both pieces first and miter the joint? I just did some cabinet doors where I set my table saw to 45 degrees and cut, what is your left piece, to the depth of the bevel, a miter). Then ripped the end of that piece to that point. On what would be your right piece, it would be beveled first, and then miter the tip of the bevel to where the end of the bevel will meet the left piece. The bevel is mitered joint, and the rest of the joint is a butt joint. I then doweled the joint so there would be no visible fasteners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1383" LastActivityDate="2015-12-03T15:35:49.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2865" CreationDate="2015-12-03T15:45:02.553" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been told that it isn't so much that you get bubbles as Matt said but that the bubbles become much smaller and more of them when shaken, making them more difficult to brush out and before they dry, or set. It is more of a problem with gloss poly because it can make the finish look cloudy. I think it is the same with varnish and shellac.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1383" LastActivityDate="2015-12-03T15:45:02.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2860" CreationDate="2015-12-03T15:59:12.413" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like Jason said a circular saw and a good straight edge. With a good saw and a good quality blade you should be able to split a pencil line if set up right. However things that can throw it off; a dull or incorrect blade can overheat and warp while cutting. Measure from the front and rear of your blade to the table edge to make sure the saw parts have not been bent out of alignment. Also make sure the saw table stays in contact with the straightedge. (Yeah, like what happens when you happen to be standing on the cord, or it gets caught on something.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1383" LastActivityDate="2015-12-03T15:59:12.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2871" CreationDate="2015-12-04T01:01:03.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One important that is usually overlooked when sharpening a used blade is checking the tensioning. Any blade over 7&quot; needs to be slightly cupped to compensate for larger blades stretching more at the perifera at working speed. This a crtaft that is nearly lost. because of the habit of replacing dull blades with new ones. Look up an old school blade sharpener in your area and get your blades tension adjusted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carbideprocessors.com/pages/saw-blades/steel-saw-plate.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.carbideprocessors.com/pages/saw-blades/steel-saw-plate.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="708" LastEditorUserId="708" LastEditDate="2015-12-04T01:06:49.997" LastActivityDate="2015-12-04T01:06:49.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2882" CreationDate="2015-12-04T01:16:07.037" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was an old house where I used to work, built of lap joined boards- vertical boards overlapped at the edges and nailed. The structure was built without framing, and stood for nearly forty years before being torn down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="708" LastActivityDate="2015-12-04T01:16:07.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1453" CreationDate="2015-12-04T15:17:50.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own the bench along with the matching table. It is a simple frame constructed with 2x3 dimension lumber; a simple reclaimed board veneer with miters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1480" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-11-21T20:35:50.280" LastActivityDate="2019-11-21T20:35:50.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1738" CreationDate="2015-12-04T15:47:42.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two reasons, cost of course is the main factor.  The other is speed vs. torque - VFD drives may not supply the same torque/speed curves as the mechanical pulley ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1481" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-12-04T18:37:23.163" LastActivityDate="2015-12-04T18:37:23.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2896" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2902" CreationDate="2015-12-04T16:07:03.143" Score="16" ViewCount="90873" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning on building a bookcase and some previous attempts have resulted in shelves that are too deep for most books.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an average depth that would work best? For example would a 9-inch deep shelf fit for most books and standard paperbacks (8.5 x 11)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I walked around my existing book collection with a tape measure and determined that 9.5&amp;quot; inches will work for a) paperbacks b) average size other books c) binders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possible option would be to query the Library of Congress (via API?) to see what the average/median dimensions are for books in the past 30 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Update]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went with a 9.5 inch deep bookcase.  This works well for most of my books and optimizes the usage of the 4'x8' sheet of plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note:  Cutting 4x8 sheets of 3/4&amp;quot; plywood on a portable tablesaw is very challenging especially when the lumber yard's table saw is broken!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1482" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-01-05T11:15:23.873" LastActivityDate="2021-01-20T03:23:06.990" Title="Is there an average depth that works best for book shelves?" Tags="|design|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2896" CreationDate="2015-12-04T17:26:37.497" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Most books&quot; is far too broad. Books of what type? Standard paperpacks or oversized ones? Modern hardback novels or vintage/antique books? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even assuming you mean regular paperbacks I don't think an average is the way to look at this. There may be a common, perhaps even typical, shelf depth for a bookcase but I've yet to see it myself, so an average of the various depths that are manufactured might result in a shelf as unsatisfactory (for some books certainly, perhaps even for all books) as your previous builds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surely the way to approach this is to measure your books and decide the clearance from the front that you like and bingo, you have &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; perfect depth? All that's needed after that is to build the bookcase accordingly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-12-04T17:26:37.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1738" CreationDate="2015-12-04T17:26:46.243" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason is that while VFD is modern and sounds cool, it is a really poor substitute (which is true for a lot of modern electronic gizmos).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like all machines, an electro motor has an ideal range of operational speed. Electro motors are admitteldy much closer to &quot;perfect&quot; machines than for example combustion engines (which cannot run slower than about 800 RPM at all, and only start to deliver serious torque at about 3,000 RPM), but they still aren't perfect. There is still a &quot;right&quot; and a &quot;wrong&quot; way to use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For drilling, you will usually want net speeds from as low as 100 (possibly 50) RPM up to about 3,000 (possibly 4,000) RPM, and you want this speed as steady as possible, with no vibrations, sudden decelerations, locking or other undesirable artefacts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While torque in an electro motor very favourably starts -- even at very low speeds -- with an almost perfectly straight, high plateau up to about 4000 RPM (after which it slowly decreases to about 50% at 8,000 RPM), things are not nearly as ideal when it comes to current, power, and power efficiency.&#xA;Electro motors have their peak power plateau between approximately 4,000 and 12,000 RPM. Before that, power output (unsurprisingly, being the product of torque and rotational speed) goes up linearly with rotational speed. Power &lt;em&gt;input&lt;/em&gt;, on the other hand, is exceedingly high on very slow rotating motors and even goes down as output goes up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Efficiency increases with rotational speed following a &quot;kind of&quot; negative exponential saturation curve reaching a plateau of around 70-95% depending on the quality of the motor (actually the curve goes down again at high speeds, but for &quot;reasonable&quot; speeds we may assume that it looks like a saturation curve).&#xA;A motor running at 20% of its maximum speed is usually less than half as efficient as a motor running at 60% of its maximum speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That suggests that a motor should preferrably run faster (indeed, much faster) than needed -- ideally near the end of its torque plateau -- and then have the speed reduced mechanically to whatever is desired. It &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; lose a small amount of torque if it runs too fast beyond the max-torque plateau (gaining efficiency in return), that torque will however be regained in excess from the speed reduction, and it will be much more power efficient. Which also means less heat and less wear on the motor.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The starting current, which may be forbiddingly high on a powerful motor, is significantly reduced, and rotational speed is a lot more constant in presence of any environmental effects that might occur (inhomogeneous material, bit locking, power grid fluctuations, whatever).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A speed-reduced motor is therefore win-win in every respect, compared to a slower turning motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, why belts, and no gear? Gear makes a lot more noise, and it's more expensive, too. Belt-driven drill presses are silent enough to be used without hearing protection (I &lt;em&gt;rarely&lt;/em&gt; ever recommend not using hearing protection with any kind of machine, but I can lead a normal conversation with my drill press running without being disturbed in any way).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add to that the fact that variable speed electronics are delicate circuits which may (will) eventually fail whereas a mechanical belt has hardly a way of failing.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Before someone yells out: &quot;Sure, a belts can rupture!&quot;, as an anecdote from my life, I got my drill press from a bankrupt tool manufacturing company 24 years ago (the drill was &lt;em&gt;used for&lt;/em&gt; making tools, they didn't make drill presses). It had been in use for around 20 years at that time already, but apart from obvious usage marks it was in good shape, and it's still working with the same belt, same everything today.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In the very worst case, a ruptured belt is easily replaced, too, whereas broken VFD logic means &quot;trashcan&quot; to anyone who doesn't have a degree in electric engineering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Belts provide the desired mechanics as efficiently and silently as possible, they cost next to nothing, and they practically last forever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="135" LastEditorUserId="135" LastEditDate="2015-12-08T11:09:35.050" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T11:09:35.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2896" CreationDate="2015-12-04T17:33:30.927" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on your books. The ones I built last time used 1x12's; that's overkill but it does handle some oversized art books and lets me put two rows of paperbacks on a shelf (one upright, another tilted back in front of them). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Book sizes might vary by country, but a table of traditional sizes can be found at&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Book_size&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Book_size&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And note that you want the shelf to be able to handle your larger books, not you average book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2015-12-06T09:39:14.147" LastActivityDate="2015-12-06T09:39:14.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1738" CreationDate="2015-12-04T17:37:25.767" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cost is indeed the main reason. Variable-speed drill presses do exist if you're willing to pay more. Remember,  price is set by percieved utility and market forces,  not by manufacturing cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-12-04T17:37:25.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2141" CreationDate="2015-12-05T07:04:32.180" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When talking about stability, it is necessary to distinguish between &lt;strong&gt;structural stability&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;dimensional stability&lt;/strong&gt;.  The means for reinforcing spalted wood (plastic resins, butterfly inserts, etc) fall within the realm of establishing structural stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the 1970's a chemical means of maintaining dimensional stability using a warm solution of polyethylene glycol (PEG) became popular. Brought to the world's attention by the US Forest Products Laboratory in 1959, the process is basically to soak the wood in water for a couple of days then submerge it in a heated solution of PEG and water for a few or several days.  This causes naturally occurring moisture to be displaced by the PEG and to no longer be subject to the vagaries of dimensional changes brought on by changes in humidity without seriously affecting workability and structure. It is most appropriately used for turnings, carvings and other projects that employ thicker wood that might balk at conventional drying processes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PEG is not a panacea and PEG treated wood has its problems, specifically, gluing, finishing, and corrosiveness.  Its waxy finish resists some glues, but there are viable work-arounds. Polyurethane and Danish oils work well as finishes, but traditional varnish and lacquers should be avoided.  PEG is corrosive to most metals except stainless steel, so fasteners and attachments should be carefully considered.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PEG is not good for all hardwoods (hard maple, cherry), but is especially friendly to walnut.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several suppliers of PEG (A search for &quot;PEG wood&quot; will set you on the right track). This search will also lead you to specific instructions for time, temperature, concentrations which vary depending on the source. A comprehensive, but dated, discussion of how and when to use PEG is found in &lt;a href=&quot;http://owic.oregonstate.edu/sites/default/files/pubs/peg.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this article from Oregon State University&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2015-12-05T07:04:32.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2896" CreationDate="2015-12-05T18:31:27.200" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;12&amp;quot; deep shelves are too deep for most books, again most books. I would make the bookshelf a &amp;quot;breakfront&amp;quot;, the 2 lower shelves 12&amp;quot; deep above a 4&amp;quot; base or toe space, and step the front back at the 30-32&amp;quot; height and make the remaining shelves, 8, maybe 10&amp;quot; deep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2021-01-05T19:26:40.550" LastActivityDate="2021-01-05T19:26:40.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2896" CreationDate="2015-12-06T05:44:36.350" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Standard bookshelves are 11 inches deep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2015-12-06T05:44:36.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1738" CreationDate="2015-12-07T03:13:26.263" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That would just be crazy expensive. Also, the VFD drive performance in terms of torque will be unusable without a gearing system of some kind. Even if you installed a VFD drive you would still need a clutch, which would be what? A belt? So, if you are using a belt anyway as a clutch, why even use a VFD, why not just use pulleys? Of course, you could install a mechanical clutch, even more big bucks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some drill presses that use a VFD in conjunction with a pulley system which has the benefits of giving a much greater range of speed controls. They cost about $2000.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T03:13:26.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-07T03:25:27.643" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend reading the book &quot;The Razor Edge Book of Sharpening&quot; by John Juranitch. This book is the simplest path to understanding the basic principles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do not necessarily need a stone, just two gritted surfaces of about 80 grit and 400 grit. Gluing sand paper to a square of plate glass with rubber cement is good enough, believe it or not. A guide of some kind is critical and you need a way to set the angle on the guide. One advantage of using a grinding wheel is that you do not a movable guide, just a fixture to hold the blade at the right angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three basic steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;grind the relief angle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;grind the cutting edge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;remove the burr&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You really need to read a book such as the one I cited above to get the details right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T03:25:27.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2141" CreationDate="2015-12-07T14:31:35.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When woodworkers talk about &quot;stability&quot; they are referring to the tendency of the wood to change shape. &quot;Stablizing&quot; wood means doing something to it that would prevent it from changing shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally the biggest cause of instability is a loss (or gain) of moisture, causing part of the wood to shrink (or expand). This can lead to warping or twisting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T14:31:35.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2907" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2914" CreationDate="2015-12-07T14:31:59.183" Score="4" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a type of paint that I can use on a small children's desk. The desk is a simple round design with 4 legs. I would like to use a paint that can take a beating. I was thinking of using outdoor paint, like for a house. Is latex based a good choice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I have to use paint rather than a &quot;clear&quot; finish because the recipients want a certain color. Also, I'm using an MDF core plywood so I need something that will cover the edges nicely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1172" LastEditorUserId="1172" LastEditDate="2015-12-08T15:19:28.993" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T15:19:28.993" Title="What type of paint would be suitable in terms of durability?" Tags="|paint|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2907" CreationDate="2015-12-07T15:33:11.137" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are willing to spray a finish, I think the go to would be lacquer.  This will provide a hard and durable finish that is frequently used on furniture, cabinets, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paint is always an option though will probably not provide as durable of a finish as lacquer.  As for latex or oil, it is really up to you based on what you're comfortable working with. They both have their pros and cons.  Latex is definitely easier to clean up and in terms of child friendliness, will put off less VOC's than oil paint will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For added durability you could apply a clear layer of varnish or shellac on top of the paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastEditorUserId="11" LastEditDate="2015-12-07T15:44:21.983" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T15:44:21.983" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2909" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2913" CreationDate="2015-12-07T16:26:52.920" Score="6" ViewCount="6010" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems like old furniture is usually built using nice solid wood but recently (from my perspective) there has been a huge surge of plywood use even in handmade furniture. When did this start happening? When did technology become available to make plywood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example of this trend &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/zzupXfveQ5w&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Plywood End Table&quot;&gt;Plywood Table&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1172" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-12-08T18:11:23.050" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T18:11:23.050" Title="When did people start using plywood rather than real hardwood?" Tags="|plywood|history|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2910" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-07T16:31:50.063" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-07T16:31:50.063" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T16:31:50.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2911" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-07T16:31:50.063" Score="0" Body="For questions regarding the history of woodworking and its associated topics. " OwnerUserId="1172" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2015-12-07T18:53:27.167" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T18:53:27.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2912" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-07T18:35:51.310" Score="4" ViewCount="3445" Body="&lt;p&gt;My husband is planning to make new cabinets for our kitchen and I'm looking at a Kreg Jig for him. What are the differences between the K4, K5 and the Foreman pocket hole machine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1489" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T00:34:13.037" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T00:42:28.140" Title="What are the differences between the K4, K5, and Foreman Pocket-hole Machine?" Tags="|tools|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2909" CreationDate="2015-12-07T18:50:02.337" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When did technology become available to make plywood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plywood in the sense of cross-grained veneers glued together is actually very old, for example various sources claim the Egyptians and ancient Chinese used materials that are basically plywood although it wasn't made in quite the same way as the modern stuff is with whole logs steamed and then peeled apart by a giant knife!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QPWkb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QPWkb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Rotary-cut method, also referred to as peeling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plywood in the modern sense is a 19th century thing, but I believe the actual commercial production of it didn't get going until the early 20th. Sources vary somewhat on this, but it is the case that early in the 20th century plywood as we would understand it today starts to be seen used for things like cupboard backs, drawer bottoms and, quite quickly, found its way to major parts of furniture like the main field of a cupboard door (where it would have a good-quality veneer on at least the outside face, sometimes on both faces). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much modern mass-produced furniture no longer uses plywood by the way, for the major boards it is now most common to see various grades of chipboard/particleboard, or MDF, with various laminates on the surface. These laminates are mostly melamine-coated paper but occasionally real wood veneers are used, obviously this is on higher-end stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2015-12-08T10:16:50.187" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T10:16:50.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2907" CreationDate="2015-12-07T19:05:39.090" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I was thinking of using outdoor paint, like for a house. Is latex based a good choice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes but you'd probably get better results from a dedicated indoor paint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While paint for outdoor applications seems like it would be toughest much of it is actually formulated to provide flexibility (to deal with the substrate expanding and contracting due to temperature swings and moisture changes) and permeability (to allow the substrate to dry effectively after rain). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, indoor paints can be made harder/tougher because they emphasise scratch-resistance and don't need to factor in the exposure to water and wide swings of temperature an exterior application calls for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you're after maximum durability I would recommend you go with an interior paint specifically formulated for interior trim and/or furniture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately the specific product names used across the industry can be very unhelpful here (latex paint being the classic example, since it contains no latex at all!) but if you can find it locally I would recommend an acrylic enamel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your local paint supplier may be able to help you with a similar product if they don't stock something named exactly that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T19:05:39.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2912" CreationDate="2015-12-07T20:23:14.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The K4 is essentially a basic version of the Kreg jig (not the most basic though). The key feature (in my opinion) with the K4 is the rear handle as compared to the front handle in the K5. The front handle is usually preferred by most people for its usability (the K5). The Foreman machine is essentially a self-contained device that does the entire &quot;pocket hole&quot; process without the need for an external power drill. The drill is built into the machine and drills from the bottom rather than the top with most other pocket-hole jigs. The end result is the same with any of the three devices you mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides the handles in the K4 and K5 (excluding other minor details), there isn't much of a difference. The Foreman Machine has the biggest difference between the three. The price is also a huge difference. You are paying for convenience. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1172" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T20:23:14.273" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1976" CreationDate="2015-12-07T20:39:25.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 3 ways to stop a knot bleeding through:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the knot and either plug it with timber or 2-pack wood filler &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat treat it, effectively drawing all the tannins from the knot like a summer would do over many years. Then apply J H Ratcliffes Stytic Sealer with two coats, then finish in normal way &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't use timber with knots in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1490" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-12-08T18:08:21.797" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T18:08:21.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1976" CreationDate="2015-12-07T22:05:18.560" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used ordinary wood filler, just like you would fill a hole or indentations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes the paint color fine and consistent, but there will still be a round flat spot if you look closely, so it may be impossible to remove all signs of the knot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T22:05:18.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2912" CreationDate="2015-12-07T22:29:38.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Foreman is probably overkill unless you're basically going into production -- at least a large kitchen's worth of cabinets. It's a bench tool, with its own motor and drilling head. If you are going to be producing many identical pocket-hole joints, it lets you turn them out assembly-line fashion. If the joints will vary in placement and/or in thickness of wood being joined, the Foreman's advantages are wasted and the space it takes up on a worktable is probably not a good investment. And it's more expensive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;But&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;-- I don't know your husband's plans for the tool, I don't know how large the workshop is, and I don't know how far his toy/tool budget will stretch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T00:42:28.140" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T00:42:28.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2919" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-07T22:31:23.703" Score="5" ViewCount="16203" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to drill holes in MDF of varying thicknesses, laid out to sub millimetre precision. In other words, I need the positioning of the center of the holes to be accurate to within a half millimetre (0.5mm or 0.02 inch) or better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is that I can't decide whether MDF is considered a wood or a grain free composite material. So would it be best to use brad point wood bits with centre punched holes as in woodwork, or HSS bits with pilot holes as in metalwork? Or anything else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1493" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2015-12-08T18:06:52.713" LastActivityDate="2019-01-11T12:14:56.777" Title="What is the best drill bit for MDF?" Tags="|power-tools|tool-selection|mdf|drill-bits|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2920" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2941" CreationDate="2015-12-08T00:50:54.840" Score="5" ViewCount="1128" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a brand new skil 12&quot; double bevel compound miter saw. The fence is aligned properly - It creates a perfect 90% angle with the blade when set to 0 degrees. however, if I set it to 45 degrees on either side, it is actually cutting 44 degrees, meaning I have to set it to ~46 degrees to get a perfect 45 degree cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the first miter saw I have purchased, and I would think that for most projects this small of error would not really matter, but in this case I am making a large picture frame so having the sum of corners be 360 degrees is necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are miter saws expected to make cuts to accuracy of less than a single degree? Is there some other variable that I have failed to consider that may be affecting this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1494" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-12-08T01:29:37.620" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T12:40:07.460" Title="What level of inaccuracy is considered tolerable for a miter saw?" Tags="|power-tools|tolerance|miter-saw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2919" CreationDate="2015-12-08T01:36:36.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you would be safe with forsner bits or HSS brad points. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both have the advantage to cut from the outside so as long as you start slow you can reduce tear-out to near zero. Some people use spade bits but they would not be my first choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If accuracy is important make sure that you clamp down your work and use a drill press. If you only have a hand held drill then follow some of the tips you see in this question to increase your accuracy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/89/how-do-i-ensure-my-drill-is-perfectly-vertical-before-cutting-a-hole-in-my-desk/1456#1456&quot;&gt;How do I ensure my drill is perfectly vertical before cutting a hole in my desk?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T01:36:36.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2907" CreationDate="2015-12-08T01:44:55.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think what you are looking for is a lacquer based spray paint. It should be tough and give give you the color you need. It will dry much faster than enamel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wobKP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lacquered chair&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.hgtv.com/design/2013/05/03/daily-delight-lacquer-spray-paint-for-furniture/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Example of colored Lacquer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also Pinterest shows all of the great colors that can be achieved with a hard glossy finish.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pinterest.com/explore/lacquer-furniture/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lacquered Furniture on Pinterest&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't use latex because it will not be very durable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="834" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T01:44:55.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2919" CreationDate="2015-12-08T02:47:05.437" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The brad point is the way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever you are making precisely located holes you should always use a bushing or jig of some type if you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, making jigs is time consuming. One quick and dirty alternative is to use what is called a &quot;tap guide&quot; which is a block of steel with standard sized holes in it. Get a set of transfer punches and put the fitting punch in the hole you want in the guide and move it around until the punch settles into the center punch divot. Clamp the tap guide to the work and drill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T02:47:05.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2919" CreationDate="2015-12-08T10:19:21.783" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I want to drill holes in MDF of varying thicknesses, laid out to sub millimetre precision. In other words, I need the positioning of the center of the holes to be accurate to within a half millimetre (0.5mm) or better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's mostly a matter of accurate layout and a starter mark/hole (a single push from an awl can be sufficient) than a call for one particular style of bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So with regard to your question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So would it be best to use brad point wood bits with centre punched holes as in woodwork, or HSS bits with pilot holes as in metalwork? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All bits that you could use, from basic twist bits through brad-point to auger can achieve the required accuracy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd add both flat/spade bits and Forstner bits to that list as well, but only if you can use a drill stand or drill press. It's possible to control both with a power drill used freehand, but it requires experience and maybe a bit of luck and as such I would not recommend it where accuracy is paramount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My problem is that I can't decide whether MDF is considered a wood or a grain free composite material. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's closer to the second option here. It's not quite grain free, see previous Question &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1414/does-mdf-have-a-grain-direction&quot;&gt;Does MDF have a grain direction?&lt;/a&gt;, however it's close enough that it doesn't matter much in practice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T10:19:21.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2909" CreationDate="2015-12-08T15:58:30.050" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to add to Graphus' insights:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Patents for plywood show up at the beginning of the 19th century and plywood as we know it (with thin sheets of wood) show up around 1850s.&#xA;In furniture history, John Henry Belter (active in New York from 1845 to 1865) is the person most associated with the use of plywood. He used rosewood plywood to build heavily carved pieces (which would fall apart otherwise). &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zm9fS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zm9fS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;couch by Belter&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good book discussing this and other changes in furniture making is &#xA;Victorian Furniture: Technology and Design (Studies in Design and Material Culture) by Clive D. Edwards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://antiques.about.com/od/funituredesigners/ss/John-Henry-Belter012713.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://antiques.about.com/od/funituredesigners/ss/John-Henry-Belter012713.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rauantiques.com/library/antiques/the-genius-of-john-henry-belter-JOHNHENRYBELTERLIB.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.rauantiques.com/library/antiques/the-genius-of-john-henry-belter-JOHNHENRYBELTERLIB.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plywood#History&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plywood#History&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T15:58:30.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2926" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2927" CreationDate="2015-12-08T16:37:42.153" Score="6" ViewCount="4599" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read that gel stain sits on top of the wood, rather than soaking into it, and pre stain helps with uniform absorption of stain.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this then mean that pre stain is not necessary when using gel stain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18" LastEditorUserId="18" LastEditDate="2015-12-08T17:23:34.007" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T18:18:49.233" Title="Should pre stain be used with gel stain?" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2926" CreationDate="2015-12-08T18:18:49.233" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does this then mean that pre stain is not necessary when using gel stain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Correct. One of the prime purposes of gel stain (or &quot;gel stain&quot; as I prefer to call it) is that it sidesteps issues with blotch-prone woods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Gel stain&quot; is not stain in the conventional sense, it is coloured varnish that has been gelled with an additive to give it a thicker, less-penetrating consistency. As a result it should never normally be thinned, if you need a thinner coating wipe it on thinly, or wipe a heavier coating partially off with a clean cloth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On &quot;pre-stain conditioner&quot;, for any readers unaware these are generally some form of finish in highly dilute form. Its purpose is to soak into the more-absorbent areas of blotch-prone woods and partially seal them off — reduce their absorbency — so that they don't absorb &lt;em&gt;too much&lt;/em&gt; stain (these areas would otherwise be dark blotches in the stained wood).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given &quot;pre-stain conditioner&quot; is heavily diluted finish it should be easy to see you can use finish you have diluted yourself. There are numerous advantages to making your own, the first being the one you might foresee which is that it's much cheaper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second is that you can use the final finish you've already bought to complete the project, saving buying another product that may sit on the shelf for a long time between uses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, you can tailor the mix to best suit the wood you're working on, rather than hoping that a one-size-fits-all product will work equally on every wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T18:18:49.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2928" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2932" CreationDate="2015-12-08T18:41:21.600" Score="6" ViewCount="59959" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just getting into woodworking, and I have a number of relatively simple projects (end tables, boxes, bookshelves, etc) that I would like to make, but I want them to match.  Water based stain is super cheap and comes in many colors, but I know that it won't work all that well on pine because it ends up splotchy.  So what woods work well for staining?  In particular,  I'd like to see a chart of woods from most to least splotchy, if that makes sense.  Because I'm relatively new to this, I've also been looking for some more general advice on common wood types and the &quot;best&quot; approach to finishing them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1334" LastEditorUserId="1172" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T14:40:56.203" LastActivityDate="2021-11-14T19:36:42.657" Title="What woods take stain well?" Tags="|wood|staining|wood-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2871" CreationDate="2015-12-08T23:21:33.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not much to add to all the other great answers but there is one thing I did not see mentioned. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When pushing the board through: Don't Stop! That is when it will most likely happen.  Everything else mentioned is still relevant,  but won't help if you keep stopping and starting. Even if you push it slowly while moving the other hand into place,  keeping it moving ensures that it won't dig into any one spot. &#xA;Careful,  if the board moves of the fence it can still dig in,  but you won't get that saw imprint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T23:21:33.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2928" CreationDate="2015-12-09T03:41:21.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aaron - I'd highly recommend red oak.  It is easy to work with, relatively inexpensive and stains very evenly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most difficult in my opinion next to pine is maple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1459" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T03:41:21.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2912" CreationDate="2015-12-09T14:08:26.327" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First let's differentiate between the two most similar of the three. The K5 is the successor to the K4, and the main difference is that the K5 moves the handle to the front instead of the back.  In other words when working on large workpieces with the K4, you have to reach around to the back side of your workpiece (side opposite the drill guides) in order to clamp the piece in place.  On the K5, the drill guides and clamp handle are on the same side, making it a little more convenient to use. The K5 also adds some storage compartment &quot;wings&quot; on the sides of the jig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a while, only the K4 was available as a Master System (extra accessories including the Portable Base, Material Support Stop, Premium Face Clamp, and the Dust Collection Attachment).  However, as of December 2015, this is no longer the case and there is a K5 Master System.  You can think of the K4 as the older one, and the K5 as the &quot;new and improved&quot; jig. The price difference is negligible if you're buying new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now let's compare the K5 with the Foreman.  With the K5 (and K4, etc.), you use your own drill with a special drill bit provided by Kreg. Like most Kreg pocket hole jigs, the K5 has hardened bushings that guide a drill bit into the wood at the correct angle.  If using the included clamping system, you'll most likely want to screw the K5 onto a work platform or base which is clamped onto a table. If not, you'll use a face clamp to clamp it onto your workpiece (which more or less converts it into a Kreg Jig Jr). It requires a little extra work to drill repeat holes, but stores easily. Typical setups orient the jig so your workpiece stands vertically since that's the best orientation of the jig to operate your drill. This isn't to say that you cannot orient the workpiece another way when using the jig's clamping system, but it can be a little more awkward. If you have large workpieces and standing them up vertically isn't practical, recall that you can remove the jig (the part with the drill guides) from the clamping system and use a face clamp or similar to hold it in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Foreman, on the other hand, has a built-in motor, a scale (ruler), tool-free stops, and a large work platform. You clamp your workpiece then pull a lever which automatically turns on the motor and drills your holes. Another difference with the Foreman is that a typical workpiece is oriented flat on the table rather than standing up vertically, since the drill guide is integrated into the table. The Foreman is intended for professional cabinet shops and unless you use pocket hole joinery for almost every project and have a large shop, it probably isn't worth paying 2.5x-4x the price for a tool that does not store as easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T17:22:32.790" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T17:22:32.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2928" CreationDate="2015-12-09T15:14:36.820" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The obvious best resources here are the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;wood-database.com&lt;/a&gt;, The Real Wood Bible (book), and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.minwax.com/how-to-finish-wood/staining-wood/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Minwax's staining guide&lt;/a&gt;. All are excellent sources of information. I would start with Minwax's guide-- it has great layout and is very beginner friendly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, woods with tight grains don't take stain well. The stain will not penetrate maple well, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't be fooled though, stain can't always replace buying a higher-quality and more expensive wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To save you some reading, here's a summary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oak: large pores, takes stain very well&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ash: takes stain well&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chestnut: takes stain well&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Birch: does not take stain well&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maple: does not take stain well&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cherry: why would you want to stain? Looks great already&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mahogany/dark woods: why would you want to stain?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pine: light stains only&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1501" LastEditorUserId="1501" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T15:25:16.357" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T15:25:16.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2933" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2935" CreationDate="2015-12-09T15:56:27.827" Score="3" ViewCount="182" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've turned a &quot;magic wand&quot; as a Christmas gift for my niece.  If you're familiar with the Harry Potter stories you probably know that wands usually contain something inside of them (i.e. Unicorn hairs, dragon heartstrings, phoenix feathers.)  Since my niece is a huge animal lover I'm talking with the local zoo about getting something special.  I would like to place these in a small vial that can be screwed into a threaded insert in the bottom of the wand.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been looking for something like this all morning but searching online tends to give me large vials, or items related to the medical industry.  Can anyone here point me toward a suitable product, or recommend better search terms that might get me closer to what I actually want?  I'm open to alternative ways of accomplishing this as well if anyone has suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1502" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T17:05:20.310" Title="Threaded vial or similar container?" Tags="|hardware-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2933" CreationDate="2015-12-09T16:15:06.877" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I searched for something like this in the past and came across &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.discountvials.com/vials/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DiscountVials&lt;/a&gt; which at the very least will give you ideas of what is available out there.  I ended up not ordering anything, so can't actually make a recommendation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want very tiny, my immediate thought was a perfume sample vial.  You might even be able to grab one of these at the perfume counter of a department store and clean it very well with alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bmgWz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bmgWz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For something with threads, I thought of what I can only call a &quot;crack vial&quot; because I've only ever seen them used in TV and movies to hold drugs for some reason...  I believe I have seen vials like this at the Container Store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PhbkX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PhbkX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1286" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T16:15:06.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2933" CreationDate="2015-12-09T17:05:20.310" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I would like to place these in a small vial that can be screwed into a threaded insert in the bottom of the wand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think something like a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.etsy.com/listing/232682242/20-pcs-flat-bottom-tube-vials-bottles?ref=market&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;necklace vial&lt;/a&gt; will work for your purpose:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4s6j9m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4s6j9m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;vial&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've ever been to a mall and seen the kiosks where someone will write your name on a grain of rice, these are pretty much the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T17:05:20.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2936" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2947" CreationDate="2015-12-09T19:23:40.300" Score="3" ViewCount="1949" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the best way to drill a hole in the end of a short spindle (maybe 8&quot;)? Mine is already turned and does not look like it would be so easy to clamp to. Is there a jig I can make to hold the spindle steady at the drill press?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1503" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T20:06:54.847" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T20:38:32.350" Title="Drilling a hole in end of spindle" Tags="|drilling|jig|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2936" CreationDate="2015-12-09T20:02:33.593" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a jig I can make to hold the spindle steady at the drill press?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;John Heisz has a good, short &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dwd140CjDIc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video on drilling long stock using a drill press&lt;/a&gt; that is worth checking out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, you swing the table of your drill press out of the way and clamp the piece to a fence that's parallel to the drill bit, then drill as usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Mine is already turned and does not look like it would be so easy to clamp to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you have an odd piece, I would make a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=images&amp;amp;cd=&amp;amp;cad=rja&amp;amp;uact=8&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwi4hPzEys_JAhXL5SYKHd2LAhMQjhwIBQ&amp;amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.popularwoodworking.com%2Fprojects%2Ftips-for-mastering-the-miter-saw&amp;amp;psig=AFQjCNELnKsOtDbKDiwGT7xFlRw5eoGAfg&amp;amp;ust=1449778129257117&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;V-cradle&lt;/a&gt;, similar to the one below&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3oKs2m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3oKs2m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cradle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and rotate it so that the cradle is upright.  Then, using a combination of clamps and shims, get your spindle so that its axis is co-linear with the drill bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, when I turn spindles that need holes in them, I drill the hole first using a Jacobs chuck in the tail stock of my lathe, then use that hole to center my cone center.  That way, you're guaranteed that the hole is along the axis of the spindle and perfectly centered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T20:09:46.930" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T20:09:46.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="307" CreationDate="2015-12-09T23:04:07.083" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is in the name&#xA;Cross Cut- Cut aCross the grain&#xA;Rip Cut- cutting along the grain where the wood fibers can Rip out in long strands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1505" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T23:04:07.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2939" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2945" CreationDate="2015-12-09T23:29:09.963" Score="6" ViewCount="15716" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Background&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got a new table saw and I'm about to start on a couple of project that require me to make grooves. I found a good tutorial to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-BcvMpxOqqw&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;cut grooves&lt;/a&gt; for drawers and cabinets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Problem&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I want to cut some grooves into a sort of frame but I will not have a false front to hide the end of the grooves like a drawer would have. I need to cut the grove into the board minus about 1&amp;quot; on each end. See example below built in sketch-up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After watching several tutorials about table saws I'm starting to think it might not be the right tool for the job (between kickback and cutting my fingers off).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SjkbK.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SjkbK.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Question&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is a safe way to make this cut with a table saw (some sort of jig perhaps?) Or is there a better tool to use for the job?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1506" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T13:22:30.893" Title="How can I cut a partial groove in the center of a piece of wood without going through the ends?" Tags="|table-saw|dado|rip-cut|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2939" CreationDate="2015-12-09T23:51:58.840" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct, a table saw or any other circular saw is not the tool to use for a blind groove.  As you have researched there are safety issues, plus the groove will be arched at the ends.  It can be done, but is not recommended, especially in conjunction with a first project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common approach is to use a router mounted on a router table and use a straight bit.  The bit does not need to be the same diameter as the width of the desired groove - it is best to make multiple passes when making a groove since it allows any thickness and makes the clearing of cuttings without clogging the cut.  If necessary for a squared end, you will most likely need to employ a chisel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T23:51:58.840" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2920" CreationDate="2015-12-09T23:57:08.977" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the detents and/or scale may be improperly calibrated.  Sometimes the detents on cheaper saws also have some slop, so you may need to wiggle the blade one way or the other after locking into a detent and before locking the setting in place.  Also keep in mind that you should tighten the adjustment knob to lock your setting in place even when using the detents, so the setting doesn't drift out of adjustment during the cut.  If you're getting consistently wrong results, you might be able to loosen a couple screws and make a slight adjustment, but the saw you're using is an entry-level saw and may not be able to do much better. Higher-end tools are often easier to calibrate and hold their settings better once calibrated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't get the results you want with this saw as-is, you have a few options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't rely on the detents or scale, and use a square or drafting triangle to set up your blade for a cut. If accuracy is important, this is a good solution regardless of how good your detents are. You can also get an aftermarket laser guide if your saw doesn't have one, but personally I'm not a fan of a laser guide.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leave a little extra when making a cut, and clean up with your table saw (with a miter sled), hand plane and shooting board, or sander. A lot of people consider the miter saw a rough tool, and the only people I know who cut all the way to a line on their miter saw have very high-end models that cost $700+. But to be honest, I don't cut nearly enough miters on my miter saw to justify that kind of purchase.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Return the saw. If you think you got a dud, you can try getting another of the same model, or you can upgrade to a higher-quality (read: more expensive) miter saw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of which of the above you choose, it's always good practice to make a test cut after making any adjustment to the tool. Also note that you may combine any of the above solutions. I only use my miter saw when a piece is too long to comfortably crosscut on my table saw, but when I do use the miter saw I usually cut a little outside my line and clean up on the table saw (option 2 above).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T02:21:32.877" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T02:21:32.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2942" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2967" CreationDate="2015-12-10T00:12:39.487" Score="7" ViewCount="3752" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of router bits say &quot;maximum speed X rpm&quot;. What will happen if I run it faster? Will I die? Will a portal to another universe open? Will demonic creatures, neither man nor beast, burst forth from the bowels of hell and spread chaos and merciless destruction throughout the land as angels helplessly look down upon us and weep for our souls?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if I have no choice but to run it faster, what precautions should I take and what technique should I use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I am looking at a 1/16&quot; slot cutter with a stated maximum RPM of 16000, but the variable speed range of my router is 20000 RPM to 30000 RPM. Can I still use the bit to make the cut?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T16:38:05.317" LastActivityDate="2023-07-15T08:55:01.257" Title="Can I run a router bit over its max RPM?" Tags="|safety|router|router-bit|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2920" CreationDate="2015-12-10T00:22:34.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Different models and manufacturers have different degrees of accuracy, and there may be variation between samples as well. This was originally a construction saw rather than a fine woodworking tool, and some are still not much more than that. Accuracy of the detents, and ability to hold a position while being locked down, also vary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Others, with some work tuning them and with a new blade designed for cleaner cuts rather than faster cuts -- and with some work setting up zero-clearance faceplates -- can reliably deliver accurate furniture-quality cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best advice I can give you is to dig into some of the woodworking magazines and find their &quot;shoot-out&quot; articles, which compare a set of similar tools head-to-head against each other and discuss what they think each got right and wrong. There's always some risk of a biased review, and your experience may not match theirs, but from what I've seen they do a pretty respectable job of narrowing the choice down to two or three models to investigate first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T12:40:07.460" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T12:40:07.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2942" CreationDate="2015-12-10T01:03:36.277" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can run the bit faster than the maximum. None of the fantastic options you mention will happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What may happen, is that the bit will fail, &lt;strong&gt;spectacularly!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should a failure occur, you could find flying shrapnel headed your direction.  This could cause other spectacular failures (e.g., destroying your work piece, router, your body parts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, the higher quality of the bit, the more you can run it over its maximum stated rotations.  &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;a high quality bit does not necessarily mean more expensive.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could always use the Montgomery Scott rule of engineering: &lt;em&gt;add 10% to the maximum safe level in the manual.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="107" LastEditorUserId="107" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T01:13:36.473" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T01:13:36.473" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2939" CreationDate="2015-12-10T12:52:53.650" Score="5" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Power tool&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a simple, efficient power tool approach I would consider a plunge router using a known straight edge as a guide. Using a straight bit you could cut in where you want and exit just the same. Use the guide to keep your cut true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/aw-extra-shaker-blanket-chest&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EkliAm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Plunge router with guide&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/aw-extra-shaker-blanket-chest&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PopularWoodworking.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you think of these grooves as flutes there are jigs that can help with the process as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bHvE9m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bHvE9m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Fluting Jig&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/router-fluting-jig&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rockler.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There is a way to still use the table saw&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you only have the table saw or want a way for that too work there is something you could do. Take a board that is of the right height and make it 15 inches long. Cut your groove from end to end using the tips you found. Then what you do is add the stops (appear to be about an inch) and glue them / screw them onto the ends. In case I lost a reader here the picture belong can help show where the how the 3 pieces would be attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GdjMF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GdjMF.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do that all with a table saw. If you use different wood then you can create interesting accents on the drawers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Hand tools&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love traditional tools and techniques so if I had the time I would be using chisels that are of the same width as you groove. To clean out the bottom of the groove you could use a router plane or &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/2536/128&quot;&gt;poor man's router&lt;/a&gt;. You would use a knife wall to cut your edges and use those as a guide to keep it straight as you work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The techniques I talk about in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/2395/128&quot;&gt;second part of this answer&lt;/a&gt; would be applicable here as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your project you would have an acceptable margin for error which would allow to make a few mistakes. If these are for drawers then errors could easily be hidden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T13:22:30.893" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2942" CreationDate="2015-12-10T15:26:33.030" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note: Bits generally have speed concerns because they have a large radus, which means the outer edge is moving at a much higher linear speed and that you have more mass trying to fly outward. Panel-raising bits are the most common example of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better alternative may be to switch from wide to tall, reducing the radius and mass back to something more normal. Vertical panel-raising bits are available for exactly that purpose. Disadvantages are that you have to run the panel past it &quot;on edge&quot;, which takes a bit more work to set up safely (or a horizontal-router table), and that you have to make the back-cut (if one is needed) as a separate pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T15:26:33.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2936" CreationDate="2015-12-10T15:50:31.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a lathe available (you did mention the spindle being turned already), then you have a great way to drill a hole along the center axis.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You use a drill chuck (like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/lathe-chuck-and-tapers-chuck?utm_source=google&amp;amp;utm_medium=cpc&amp;amp;utm_term=&amp;amp;utm_content=pla_with_promotion&amp;amp;utm_campaign=PL&amp;amp;sid=V9146&amp;amp;gclid=CLHB9oXR0ckCFYEYHwodR9ABJA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;this&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; one at Rockler), to hold your drill bit.  You chuck the spindle, rotate and move the tailstock towards the headstock to do the drilling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how you chuck the spindle, it may be easier to put the spindle in the headstock and the bit in the tailstock or the other way around.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used this technique on fairly short spindle stock, probably wouldn't work well if your spindle was a 20&quot; long, half-inch diameter piece, as the spindle wouldn't have sufficient support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick image search found this picture to illustrate what I'm talking about, though it looks as if the material is brass:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/02Fr8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/02Fr8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="956" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T15:50:31.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2948" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-10T18:57:51.790" Score="1" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wood glue is very specifically used for wood. How does wood glue bond differently compared to other glues like epoxy or Elmer's glue? I'm not talking about what makes wood glue unique or &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/857/what-is-special-about-wood-glue&quot;&gt;special&lt;/a&gt; (water-based, non-toxic) but rather the specifics of it's bond to wood from a technical perspective. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: The wood glue I have in mind is Tight Bond wood glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1172" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T18:57:51.790" Title="In what ways does wood glue bond differently than other glues?" Tags="|glue|adhesives|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="13" ClosedDate="2015-12-11T15:49:43.767" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2326" CreationDate="2015-12-10T23:58:41.057" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made end grain walnut cutting boards with only 1 glue up. I make them a minimum of 2&quot; thick, generally closer to 2-1/4&quot; without any problems so far. I believe the moisture content is very important to the raw material. I check all my wood with a moisture meter. I like to stay in the 6% range but will go no higher than 8%. Following the finishing (sanding), I use mineral oil and apply as many coats as the board will absorb. I then finish with a final coat of mineral oil and bees wax. So far this has worked for me with no failures. I wish you much success going forward with all your cutting board projects. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1510" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T23:58:41.057" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2896" CreationDate="2015-12-12T00:46:37.040" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have book shelves from two European manufactures. One is 12 inches deep and the other in 12.25 inches deep. I think book shelves are built that deep to make it more difficult for them to tip over as the books are usually towards the back and the shelves are against a wall. The suggestion of a break front is a way to have it both ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="856" LastEditorUserId="856" LastEditDate="2015-12-16T19:57:39.027" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T19:57:39.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2953" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-12T05:00:40.377" Score="4" ViewCount="3801" Body="&lt;p&gt;How does one bend plywood as shown in this photo?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WtkYr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WtkYr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bent plywood&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://grovemade.com/collections/walnut-desk-collection&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;grovemade.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1518" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-12-13T01:19:00.943" LastActivityDate="2015-12-13T01:19:00.943" Title="How can I bend plywood?" Tags="|plywood|bending|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2954" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2970" CreationDate="2015-12-12T06:33:04.277" Score="7" ViewCount="2554" Body="&lt;p&gt;I occasionally do some wood project for fun.&#xA;I already have a 10” table saw and I have a limited budget to buy a 10” miter saw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My budget allows me to either buy a Dewalt DW713 or a lower brand sliding miter saw with a laser for the same price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally like the Dewalt DW713. However, I wonder how important the sliding feature is? I don’t want to regret not having the sliding feature in future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update and Final Thought&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thank you, everyone, for sharing your though here. While I got my answer from this post, I think it highly depends on the usage scenario, preferences, and brands. Therefore I don't think there is only one answer here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1519" LastEditorUserId="1519" LastEditDate="2015-12-21T02:21:03.447" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T02:21:03.447" Title="Help needed to decide between a miter saw or sliding miter saw" Tags="|tool-selection|miter-saw|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2954" CreationDate="2015-12-12T13:27:10.443" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The advantage of the &quot;sliding&quot; saws which are sort of a poor man's version of a radial arm saw are that they will cut slightly wider material. For example, a DW717 will cut a 12&quot; wide board where the DW713 will only cut a 10&quot; wide board. The sliding saws are considerably more rickety than the basic type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just as a general principle it is a good idea to stick to solid, high quality equipment. With a cheapo saw you will probably have cuts that are not perfectly straight and other annoying issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T13:27:10.443" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2954" CreationDate="2015-12-12T17:18:01.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A sliding miter saw allows you to cut wider boards with the same size or smaller blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, a sliding miter saw also typically consumes a lot more space (many models require a lot of room behind the saw) and the sliding mechanism introduces some imprecision on all but the most high-end models. If you may have to move the saw around regularly, the sliding saw will also be heavier and more awkward to move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people like having a laser guide.  It will help you get aligned at the correct angle to a line on your board, but on mine the beam is still wide enough that it's difficult to get perfect cuts right up to the edge of the line. I use the laser to get close, then sneak up to the line on the miter saw or with another tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T17:18:01.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2953" CreationDate="2015-12-12T17:59:35.390" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bending method pictured is called bent lamination.  You take multiple thin sheets of wood and glue them together in a bending form, as illustrated in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/1795/49&quot;&gt;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/1795/49&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use single veneers.  These are thin sheets of wood, often around 1/40&quot;-1/8&quot;, though they can be thicker or thinner.  Obviously the thinner the veneers, the more you'll need to glue together to get to your final thickness. You can buy veneer or resaw your own veneers on a bandsaw. If you're fortunate enough to have access to a drum sander, it will guarantee that each veneer is of uniform thickness throughout, though it is not necessarily important for all veneers to be the same thickness as each other.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use bending plywood.  This plywood is not only thin, but it has the grain of all the plies oriented in the same direction rather than criss-crossing the grain of alternating layers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the bend is not very severe, you can also use thin ordinary sheets of plywood (even if they are not technically &quot;bending plywood&quot;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T17:59:35.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2958" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-13T01:17:18.643" Score="4" ViewCount="1900" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to make a bunch of Escrima Sticks (for Filipino Martial Arts), but I can't find enough straight wood. What should I do? I don't want to spend money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1524" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-12-13T16:04:37.257" LastActivityDate="2019-06-30T07:01:30.183" Title="How can I straighten a 2' long wooden stick" Tags="|bending|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2801" CreationDate="2015-12-13T01:34:44.793" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If yo try to rub it with sandpaper, and then put Pledge: Cedar wood spray on it and let it sit, then you can apply a gel stain to it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1524" LastActivityDate="2015-12-13T01:34:44.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2960" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-13T01:38:24.030" Score="1" ViewCount="555" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making Escrima Sticks out of wood in my backyard, and I want to peel the bark off of the sticks quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1524" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2015-12-13T16:03:33.970" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T15:14:27.627" Title="What is an easy way to peel the bark off of a stick?" Tags="|traditional-techniques|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2015-12-15T02:41:33.907" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2961" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-13T15:32:18.947" Score="7" ViewCount="3232" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the process of making some wooden block tubing clamps, a bit like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Wood-Tubing-Blocks/step0/Wood-Tubing-Blocks/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; or the one at the bottom of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebicycleacademy.org/2014/07/02/academy-tools/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d9YJJm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d9YJJm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;clamps&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blocks are fine, the leather hinge is all sorted and I'm not worried about boring the holes. I am hesitant about the best way of cutting the blocks in half as cleanly as possible and without removing too much material. I do have the use of a bandsaw, but don't have much faith that the blade won't meander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is a bandsaw the recommended solution, or would it be less risky to use a hand tool, such as this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NfGpcm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NfGpcm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;pull saw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1525" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-12-13T17:18:28.153" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T14:00:26.087" Title="What's the best way to neatly cut a wooden cube in half, removing little material?" Tags="|cutting|band-saw|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2961" CreationDate="2015-12-13T16:21:06.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Either a bandsaw or a thin-bladed handsaw should do the job. For handsaws, Western backsaw or Eastern pull-style saw generally have the thinnest blades you can find easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even a thin-kerf tablesaw blade might do the job, depending on just how critical it is to avoid waste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-12-13T17:23:20.957" LastActivityDate="2015-12-13T17:23:20.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2961" CreationDate="2015-12-13T16:22:23.707" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, a hand saw--especially a Japanese-style saw like the kataba in your picture--will give you a thinner kerf than, say, a table saw.  This saw cuts on the pull stroke rather than the push stroke like Western-style hand saws, but even a hand saw with a thick plate and large amount of set on the teeth will cut a thinner kerf than most, if not all, table saw blades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to either tune your bandsaw to &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/q/265/49&quot;&gt;cut straight&lt;/a&gt;, or you can learn and adjust for the drift. That said, in this case I would say it's ok if your bandsaw blade wanders a little bit, since the two pieces will still have perfectly-mating surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another point worth mentioning is that you don't necessarily have to worry about cutting a very small kerf. In the image from the second link you shared, there does appear to be a fairly significant space between the two sides of the block from the larger kerf. A larger kerf will allow you to clamp more tightly around the pipe, especially if the drilled hole as-is does not provide a snug fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-12-13T16:22:23.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2961" CreationDate="2015-12-13T17:19:44.540" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have access to a table saw an easy way to get clean cuts and perfect cubes might be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut precise &lt;em&gt;half&lt;/em&gt; cubes on table saw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clamp half cubes together &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; bore your holes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same goes for other types of saws. Although a table saw will give you a nice quick, clean cut, a properly tuned band saw with a fence (even just clamp some scrap to your band saw table as a guide to ride the block against) will do the job just fine. A table saw might not even be an option depending on how thick your blocks are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, as rob notes in his answer you still probably want to remove material to improve clamping action on the pipes. If you use the above method you could insert a thin (1/32&quot; or so) spacer between the half cubes before clamping and drilling, or sand them down after drilling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastActivityDate="2015-12-13T17:19:44.540" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2961" CreationDate="2015-12-13T17:22:55.960" Score="10" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am hesitant about the best way of cutting the blocks in half as cleanly as possible and without removing too much material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me present a slightly different tack here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Wood-Tubing-Blocks/step0/Wood-Tubing-Blocks/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;first link&lt;/a&gt; you posted, it looks very much like the blocks are an &lt;em&gt;exact&lt;/em&gt; fit on the tubes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FFI5Lm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FFI5Lm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;clamp&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is actually pretty simple to achieve.  First, cut two blocks that are each half of a cube.  Then, clamp the blocks together and drill the hole for the tube such that half of the hole is on half of each piece.  This is best done on a drill press.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like @rob states, you might want the kerf taken out anyway so that you get some clamping action on the blocks.  If that's the case, then either of the answers posted by @rob or @keshlam will work perfectly fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit #1:&lt;/strong&gt; If you want the clamping action while still following my original advise, shim between the blocks with some thick paper or card stock or thin shims of wood.  It will essentially be the same as taking the kerf out with a saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T14:00:26.087" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T14:00:26.087" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2961" CreationDate="2015-12-13T22:55:13.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do not need to cut a block in half at all. You just need to make sure the that the two halves mate to each other well, which is more a matter of grinding/sanding than sawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would make the half-blocks by using a table saw and then make two square faces using a pair of disc sanders. Then, I would clamp them together with a kant clamp and sand the remaining faces. A band saw is the wrong tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want to have 2 disc sanders because one should be fitted with a roughing abrasive like 100 grit, and the other should have a fine abrasive like a 400 grit. Alternatively you can do the production in batches, first roughing all the blocks and then fine sanding them, using the same sander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2015-12-13T22:55:13.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2942" CreationDate="2015-12-14T12:06:44.020" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short: &lt;strong&gt;No.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compared to 16,000 RPM, 20,000 RPM is 25% over the specified maximum. Manufacturers -- even cheapish ones -- always calculate in a bit of tolerance, but 25% over limit is &lt;strong&gt;a lot&lt;/strong&gt;. I wouldn't mind running a 19,000 RPM bit (if that existed) at 20,000 if it was the only one I had available, but surely not a 16,000 one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What may happen?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1/16'' (1.5mm) is pretty slim, these bits are not unlikely to break even when treated properly. Most reputable manufacturers here do not even sell such small bits except with very slim shafts (3mm), which are usually only available for &quot;toy&quot; routers (like a 175W Dremel or Proxxon) that are a lot weaker and usually allow speeds as low as 7,000, too. A &quot;typical&quot; router for a &lt;em&gt;Real Scotsman&lt;/em&gt; normally cannot fit such slim shafts at all, and for good reason -- you can already predict with high likelihood what would happen if you clamped that tiny fragile bit into the router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Indeed, when you do find such ultra-small bits here, you usually get them in packaging units of 10, which is &lt;em&gt;tell-tale&lt;/em&gt; for their destiny. Or, to cite Robert Louis Stevenson:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;Prophetic,&quot;&lt;/em&gt; said the doctor, touching this picture with his finger. &lt;em&gt;&quot;And now, Master Billy Bones, if that be your name, we'll have a look at the colour of your blood.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; happen?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nobody knows! The two most likely things to happen will be either nothing at all (&quot;works fine&quot;), or the bit ripping off right away near the shaft as you plunge in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is &lt;em&gt;usually&lt;/em&gt; much more serious to have a wide-diameter bit go off (that's more like standing next to an exploding hand grenade). But of course, even a slim bit may just as well go flying somewhere, including the direction of your stomach or your face. You have no way of telling whether it will just work fine or whether you will die from injury.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, desastrous failure can &lt;strong&gt;always&lt;/strong&gt; happen with any kind of bit, all the time, and for a wide variety of reasons. Among them pushing forward too hastily, tilting, buying low quality bits, not maintaining bits properly, or just... &lt;em&gt;bad luck&lt;/em&gt;. And, of course, running 25% over the specified maximum. Life is dangerous and often lethal, and power tools -- routers in particular -- are dangerous beasts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there is &lt;em&gt;reasonable&lt;/em&gt; risk and &lt;em&gt;unreasonable&lt;/em&gt; risk. Reasonable risk is wearing a knife-resisting vest (I'm actually doing that) which will catch 99.9% of all sharp objects that aim for your heart and your liver, and a polycarbonate face mask while working with well-maintained tools at the indicated speed. Or, more traditional, protective glasses and a thick cow leather apron.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Unreasonable risk is... everything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What may &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; happen?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bad thing about taking unreasonable risk (read as: being grossly negligent) is that not only is desaster a lot more likely to happen, but also that you are out alone in the dark with the consequences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bit sends out shrapnels and you lose an eye or are otherwise injured in a non-trivial way, you may find that your casualty insurance tells you: &lt;em&gt;&quot;Why! You ran 25% over the specified maximum, this had to happen&quot;&lt;/em&gt;, and refuses to pay the bills. The same can (almost certainly will) happen with your indemnity insurance in case you injure a bystander.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If nothing else, that alone is a good reason not to go too much over the limits. The risks simply are not acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="135" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T12:06:44.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2968" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3329" CreationDate="2015-12-14T14:32:05.303" Score="8" ViewCount="1657" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently started using my router table and read both here and on the net about router safety. That covered using the tool itself. Now reading the question about &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2942/can-i-run-a-router-bit-over-its-max-rpm&quot;&gt;exceeding bit RPM&lt;/a&gt; I realize I never considered precautions about router bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then looking at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://stusshed.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/routeincidentsvs3.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; from &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/2951/128&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; it brings other criteria to light:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use of an inappropriate router bit (in this case, a bit with wings too large for the shank)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use of a bit with a shank not long enough to be properly grasped in the collet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not marking the tool with the maximum permissible speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not balancing the tool before use.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inset photo from aforementioned link and article&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fWwyV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fWwyV.png&quot; alt=&quot;Router-bit top view&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Router bit’s wings are too large for the shank&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully the answer is not just in the question itself, but &lt;strong&gt;what do I need to know about router bits to ensure they are safe for use with my router?&lt;/strong&gt;  To clarify when I say &amp;quot;my&amp;quot; I don't mean mine specifically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A related query, stemming from the caption of the above image &lt;em&gt;Router bit’s wings are too large for the shank&lt;/em&gt;, is how do I tell if a router bit was manufactured properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T22:37:43.017" Title="How to determine if a router bit is safe to use?" Tags="|safety|power-tools|router|router-bit|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2960" CreationDate="2015-12-14T15:14:27.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try using a knife blade and make a slit lengthwise. Pour hot water from a kettle along entire slit repeat as needed. Like cornhusking without a microwave. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="785" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T15:14:27.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2954" CreationDate="2015-12-14T15:25:38.193" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rather than a higher quality miter saw I purchased a low end sliding miter saw years ago and have not regretted the choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did try out several sliding miter saws before making my choice, however, as I found that very low end saws were extraordinarily imprecise.  The import shop, for instance, had something that cost half as much, but when manipulating it in the store it was obvious that it moved out of the cut plane easily when pulling it forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brand name sliding saws had a much more solid feel, but in the store with the brand name saws I found a lower cost off brand name saw that felt good, and had the features I wanted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have pointed out, though, a sliding saw is much larger and heavier, and honestly it fits in a little bit of a niche if you only plan on buying one miter saw:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A moderate amount of repeated miter cuts on wide material&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Want to move it occasionally, but not frequently&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have few cuts to make with wider material, get a regular miter saw and use a circular saw or hand saw for the rare cut that is wider.  If you never plan to move it, you might want to consider a 12 inch non-sliding machine, but if you're always moving it, you should probably go with a miter saw, and consider a track saw for the longer cuts. If you need precision then this is the wrong area to save money - most of these saws are designed for construction work and 1/32&quot; or 1/16&quot; precision is just fine for the intended use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do get a sliding miter saw, make sure that the sliding and miter action feel good and solid before you buy one, it should be pretty obvious if it's flimsy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="235" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T15:25:38.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2972" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2977" CreationDate="2015-12-14T17:17:36.530" Score="3" ViewCount="807" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to build a small door between my garage and my attic. The rest of the wall is plaster on button board and is about the equivalent of 5/8&quot; sheetrock. If I doubled up two sheets of 3/4&quot; plywood, would it offer the same or better fire protection?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="856" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T18:21:13.877" Title="Fire Protection of Plywood" Tags="|door|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2972" CreationDate="2015-12-14T17:28:09.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I doubled up two sheets of 3/4&quot; plywood, would it offer the same or better fire protection?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless it's plywood treated with flame-retardant, no.  Regular plywood has basically zero fire rating.  Type X 5/8&quot; gypsum drywall has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/asktoh/question/0,,20153904,00.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;1-hour fire rating&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why would you want to build a fire barrier out of something flammable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T17:34:29.920" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T17:34:29.920" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2972" CreationDate="2015-12-14T18:11:57.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would be a better idea to screw a sheet of steel to it on both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T18:11:57.113" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2958" CreationDate="2015-12-14T18:13:51.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Soak the sticks in water. This will make them pliable. Then put them in a brace or frame that holds them straight while they dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T18:13:51.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2976" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2980" CreationDate="2015-12-14T18:21:11.607" Score="4" ViewCount="4738" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general I have had good results with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oil-based stain -&gt; oil-based polyurethane&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oil-based stain -&gt; shellac barrier -&gt; polycrylic / water-based polyurethane&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to keep the look and at least some of the scratch resistance polyurethane/polycrylic provide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I have found that when I apply any poly to vertical surfaces or bottom faces, it drips or becomes uneven as it dries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I have a piece that I had to assemble before finishing. It has faces of every orientation that I need to finish. I'd also like to avoid a shellac coat because I have trouble working with shellac. This limits me to oil-based polyurethane. All of the polyurethanes I have take 6-8+ hours to dry, and at least a few hours to stop being affected by gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd really like to finish this piece in less than 6 (top, bottom, left, right, front, back) separate 6-8 hour steps (do the top faces, wait for poly to dry before flipping piece and doing a side, and so on).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm looking for either a finish with the same look and some of the protection as polyurethane (I only need mild scratch resistance) that sets very quickly or doesn't run at all, or some technique for applying polyurethane to faces of arbitrary orientation without it running / beading / flowing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of finish can I use over oil-based stain, or how can I continue to use polyurethane but apply it in one or two sittings instead of six?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T19:56:47.327" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T19:56:47.327" Title="Polyurethane or similar on multiple sides at once, quickly, no drips" Tags="|technique|finishing|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2972" CreationDate="2015-12-14T18:21:13.877" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To lead from a &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2972/fire-protection-of-plywood/2977#comment5984_2973&quot;&gt;comment you made on another answer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a hospital I used to work in, the fire doors were made out of wood and were rated at 1.5 or 2 hours of protection as a function of their thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I get it now. The doors you speak of do not stop fire dead. It's not about fire protection but more about giving time for people to be able to leave the premises. Fire beats wood. That is a fact. It does however take time. A basic definition from a Quora post:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fire Door specifications&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fire doors are &lt;strong&gt;not just the door itself&lt;/strong&gt;, it includes the &lt;strong&gt;frame, ironmongery, glazing and smoke seal&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Point to take from that is just having wood alone does not constitute fire protection. There is a reason that these types of things have complete codes to define their production, testing, use and safety thresholds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 sheets of plywood alone I &lt;em&gt;do not think&lt;/em&gt; are good fire protection by any means. The thickness of the wood is &lt;strong&gt;not the sole reason it suffices in other fire doors&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T18:21:13.877" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2978" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2979" CreationDate="2015-12-14T18:31:21.003" Score="7" ViewCount="15784" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I am staining or applying any type of finish to a piece, and have to turn it upside down at some point or set it on something to dry, what can I set it on that won't mark the finish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A limited selection of failed strategies so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Setting on pointy edge of aluminum angles - marks finish; or pulls a line off if finish is still tacky&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Setting on pointy edge of wood triangles - same as above.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Setting on wood spacers - spacers soak stain out of piece, worse depending on what type of wood the spacers are&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cloth barrier - cloth soaks stain and finish out of piece, sticks to piece&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wax paper barrier - somewhat ok, often still pulls bits off of tacky finish or stain or leaves scuffs on finish&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything I've tried so far either rubs or soaks up the stain and/or finish on the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even when e.g. stain doesn't &lt;em&gt;seem&lt;/em&gt; tacky, if I leave the piece on wooden spacers overnight when I come back in the morning their are inevitably lighter spots where the spacers were and stain on the spacers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short of an antigravity chamber or strong enough magnetic field for levitation of wood, how can I support a work-in-progress without damaging it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T17:36:15.687" Title="Supporting a workpiece during staining / finishing without damaging finish" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2978" CreationDate="2015-12-14T18:50:06.430" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Finish one side, let it dry, finish the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or hang it from a string (as some folks do when spray-finishing cabinet doors).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people do use nail points or other nonabsorbant supports. Many plastic objects are marketed for the purpose... The point (sorry) of all of these is that if there's any marring, it's a tiny dot which becomes completely invisible if you're laying down multiple coats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there are other solutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T18:50:06.430" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2976" CreationDate="2015-12-14T19:16:51.153" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apply the varnish more thinly. Thinly is a pun here, as I mean thinned but this will directly result in a thinner coat being applied to the wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A thin coating is automatically less subject to problems due to gravity, and at best there is zero risk of runs, drips or sags. A thin coating also dries more quickly — varnish drying time is directly linked to coat thickness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However there's no free lunch and there is a downside: this goes hand in hand with the finish building more slowly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's fewer coats and risk some problems due to gravity, or sidestep those problems entirely accepting that more coats are needed to build coverage (6-8 to roughly equate with three full-strength coats of varnish applied by brush or roller).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now this is not to say you need to apply the equivalent of three undiluted coats of varnish. Many of the people who wipe on poly in very thin coats will only apply three or four coats and they're happy with both the look and the level of protection. Note this is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; enough to provide the full waterproofing that poly can provide (which you might want for a coffee table or kitchen countertop for example), but it is more than adequate for many other pieces of furniture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T19:16:51.153" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2978" CreationDate="2015-12-14T19:32:43.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I am staining or applying any type of finish to a piece, and have to turn it upside down at some point or set it on something to dry, &lt;strong&gt;what can I set it on&lt;/strong&gt; that won't mark the finish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You really can't do this in practice IMO. You'll find a few tips online and in articles on how this can be achieved but in reality I think even the best of them (the piece supported on sharp points) only work if one side — the side that will eventually be the most visible — is uppermost during the drying period. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As keshlam mentions in his Answer the tiny dot that results can become obscured when laying down multiple coats, but that's not an absolute. I've experienced it myself where the 'bleb' left by the drying of the first coat was still plain to see (to me at least) after numerous coats of finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way people try to work around this is to make the support points sharper, to minimise the surface contact, but that's not ideal either because sharp points will of course tend to sink into the wood, and the heavier the workpiece the greater this effect. The tiny divot left behind by the tip of a sharpened brad can be plainly visible even on a relatively light piece, it would be quite pronounced on anything heavier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can however support some pieces in other ways. I don't think there's any workpiece or subassembly which is viewed equally on all sides in its finished orientation. So you can for example support shelf boards by their edges, a table can be supported on its feet, and so forth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T19:32:43.263" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2936" CreationDate="2015-12-14T20:38:32.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding to Bill Nace's answer, I recently bought a drill chuck for my lathe to do similar type drilling.  Someone asked me to make wooden beads.  However if you have longer items to drill into the end, you might need to add a spindle steady to the mix.  that would help keep the far end from the chuck steady for the drilling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5c2Vm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5c2Vm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T20:38:32.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2954" CreationDate="2015-12-14T21:00:09.160" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a 12&quot; Dewalt compound miter years ago.  The slider was too much more at the time.  I love my saw but I am always regretting not having a slider.  It is amazing how often I have boards that are 1/2&quot; -2&quot; too wide.  A 12&quot; miter does not cut a 12&quot; board, like you probably noticed the 10&quot; doesn't come close to a 10&quot; board either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation, is always if you can afford a decent slider, go for it.  Unless you really rarely cut boards larger than the capacity.  I frequently cut boards after glue up of 11-12&quot;, some I can 'lift up' the board to finish, but mostly I have to flip the board over and try to line up the cut and hope that my long sides are parallel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a huge difference in quality (I read a lot of reviews to help make that distinction) then the question is the slider at a quality that is at least sufficient for your needs.  If the slider is really for cutting 2x stock and not nice hardwoods, then I would pass it up.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've learned to buy the best tool I can afford for the job I plan to use it for.  A simple tool I'll use less than once a year, I'll likely go for cheap.  A miter I want to make an investment, sometimes this means waiting longer to save up more money for it.  A router is something you can get cheap, and then save up and get a better one, since every shop could use at least 2 routers, (I'd like more!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I got/get tired of buying new tools because I bought crap the first time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T21:00:09.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2985" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-15T06:25:58.350" Score="3" ViewCount="2184" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to engrave, i.e. shape, a small toy sports car out of wood. I do not plan on doing it using chainsaws but with a few hand tools. The dimensions of the car are going to be 15cm x 12cm x 10cm. I do not know what kind of wood I should use and where can I get it. Also, I would like the wood to be light-weight and strong. If the wood is too strong or hard I will not be able to make a car out of it. Also, if it is too weak it may break very easily. Hence I want the wood to be neither very hard nor very soft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1533" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T20:20:12.407" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T22:17:32.347" Title="What kind of wood should I use for making a toy car?" Tags="|wood-selection|toy|carving|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2986" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2992" CreationDate="2015-12-15T12:06:15.257" Score="11" ViewCount="8436" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every time I use my countersink bit, it creates a hexagonal hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9ND2z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9ND2z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried a hand drill, an electric drill, drilling fast, drilling slow, soft pressure, firm pressure - virtually every time it will create a hexagonal hole. Of the 12 I drilled yesterday, only one was round, and that felt like it was due to that being an abnormally soft area in the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it the design of the bit? I'm sure the one my dad used when I was a kid had many more vanes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is it something I'm doing wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, how do I get a circular countersink?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SOLUTION:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tried out some of the suggested solutions last night, from L-R is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Countersink before hole&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Large standard drill bit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hand-turned countersink&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Countersinking before drilling the whole is clearly the best, at least for the plywood I'm using. The hand-turned bit could potentially work with a bit more care too; the hole itself is nice and round. Maybe needs a sharper bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SPXN8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SPXN8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Apologies for picture quality)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: I had to do a couple more last night, but forgot to countersink first; the hand-turned technique worked really well in the painted plywood, although it took care to keep it centred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="876" LastEditorUserId="876" LastEditDate="2015-12-22T10:18:24.367" LastActivityDate="2020-11-15T19:47:17.047" Title="Why is my countersink bit making hexagonal holes?" Tags="|drilling|drill-bits|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2986" CreationDate="2015-12-15T12:40:29.480" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's almost certainly due to the bit chattering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You write that you already tried various speeds, but that's really the solution. Do not run too fast (try half the speed). Apply firm, controlled (but not too brutal, this causes chatter, or locking) press, and keep a steady centered hold as much as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a &lt;strong&gt;drill press&lt;/strong&gt; if you have one, or a drill rig, will help keeping it centered a lot more easily and more accurately, and applying the correct amount of pressure is a lot easier, too (plus, you have a stopper for nice equal-depth sinks in series).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Lacking a drill press or rig, use at least two hands on the machine. No cowboy-style shooting.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;An electric screwdriver like the one you are using according to the below comment, is a rather bad choice, too. It can make holes, somehow, but it's not really suited for the task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's people who recommend pressing very, very gently, and going in very slowly (with a moderate to high drill speed), too. I'm not a big fan of that, although it &quot;works&quot; for the problem. You however create a lot of friction by rubbing and scrubbing slowly, which needlessly wears down the tool and may leave burn marks. Unless the tool is blunt (and in that case, throw it away!) there is no reason to rub and scrub in slowly. It's a cutting tool intended for &lt;em&gt;cutting&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="135" LastEditorUserId="135" LastEditDate="2015-12-15T14:01:17.730" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T14:01:17.730" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2985" CreationDate="2015-12-15T13:26:41.330" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on the level of detail you want the wood to hold.  My first response would be pine/fir/spruce.  Most 2&quot; x 4&quot; material is pine, sometimes fir or spruce.  It is cheap and all are &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Softwood&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;'softwoods'&lt;/a&gt;.  These tend to be the woods often used to make toy cars.  There are lots of level of quality when talking about &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=wood%20cars&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;biw=1242&amp;amp;bih=641&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwi3l4zJ-t3JAhUP7GMKHZUYA_EQ_AUIBigB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wood cars.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you want toys, the softwoods should be fine.  If you are wanting to attempt more 'model' type carving you are going to want to be using hardwoods (eventually).  As a beginner I'd still start with the softwoods, understanding that they have a harder time holding fine details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you move to hard woods (because these are more expensive so practice on cheaper woods) Basswood and Butternut are supposed to be two of the nicer woods for carving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T22:17:32.347" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T22:17:32.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2986" CreationDate="2015-12-15T13:38:17.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Damon, that has to do with chatter, the drill is actually moving up and down to allow such a thing to happen.  Now why?  Two things come to mind.  The first is much less likely but I thought I'd point it out, I've seen a least one bit that you ran the drill 'backwards' for the countersink to cut correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will cause the same issue as the other one.  If it is really dull countersink it will chatter no matter how strong you are.  (a backwards one is using the dull side so works the same).  So I would recommend either sharpening it or getting a new one.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just did a little search and counter sinks, and I think I need to invest a little on some of the nice one that will drill my hole and counter sink in one go!  Anyway you can get them really cheap or pay some decent money for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;Edt: after seeing you have an electric 'screwdriver' not a drill, I would say this is allowing the chatter.  Those really are not designed well for this type of application.  You don't need a cordless drill to do this, allowing for a much cheaper corded drill to be added to your tool set.&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As another note, a hand drill with a large sharp bit could be used to round them out after you have them close, which might be cheaper yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vIe62.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vIe62.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8EPw1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8EPw1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2015-12-15T15:21:13.873" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T15:21:13.873" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2125" CreationDate="2015-12-15T13:42:19.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are they going to be painted in a solid colour or bare/stained wood? If painted then most signmakers these days seem to use moisture resistant MDF (medium density fibreboard). This is super easy to cut and machine and very durable once painted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The place where I work uses Medite exterior-grade MDF for a lot of (painted) exterior board components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T13:42:19.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2991" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2994" CreationDate="2015-12-15T13:50:08.093" Score="2" ViewCount="185" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to build/recreate a design that I like on the internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sciangai Coat Stand&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HFw9F.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HFw9F.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sciangai Coat Stand&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't figure out what mechanism I have to make to hold the woods and been able to screw them and maintain their position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have any idea what to use in the middle to keep the coat stant at the shape I make it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1536" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T14:19:32.537" Title="Wood coat stand help needed" Tags="|furniture|wood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2986" CreationDate="2015-12-15T14:06:16.447" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it the design of the bit? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes I believe that's partly it. But it's almost certainly not the only issue and the main one I think is that it's not sharp enough — this type of countersink rarely is from what I've seen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have three of what looks like &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; the same countersink and every one of them was not sharp straight from the package, and I have seen many others on sale that appear to be just as (not) sharp. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definitely sharpen the bit if you can manage it as a first step to solving the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sharpening mine did improve performance, although it wasn't an absolute fix. In use the technique that seemed to help the most for me was to run the drill fast and use light pressure, with a very firm hold on the drill. This worked far more reliably than using low speed and firm pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another tip I read just the other day that you might like to try: &lt;strong&gt;countersink before you drill the clearance hole&lt;/strong&gt;. I haven't been in a position to try it myself or I'd report on its effectiveness firsthand but apparently it makes a big difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T14:06:16.447" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2991" CreationDate="2015-12-15T14:10:43.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have no idea how the original is done and I'm just theorising here but I bet that if you used &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2708/are-there-specific-types-of-screws-i-should-use-for-woodworking/2714#2714&quot;&gt;common wood screws&lt;/a&gt; (with a plain shank under the head) and they screwed into a central wood block, &lt;em&gt;not too tightly&lt;/em&gt;, you'd have enough play to be able to rotate each of the spindles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with this of course is that you'd have visible screw heads which is not at all ideal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T14:10:43.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2991" CreationDate="2015-12-15T14:19:32.537" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do you have any idea what to use in the middle to keep the coat stant at the shape I make it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is probably similar to one of the ways to make the tri-bolt for Chris Schwarz's &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.lostartpress.com/2014/01/08/make-your-own-tri-bolt-for-a-folding-stool/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;folding camp stool&lt;/a&gt;, as shown below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lycGL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lycGL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;tri-bolt&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, you need a central hub for all of the bolts/screws to connect to, and the stand uses this hub as a pivot point when it spreads out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted to make it out of metal, you could buy a section of pipe, cut off a short segment (like 1/2&quot; to 3/4&quot; long) and drill and tap the holes for as many vertical slats as you want.  Thicker pipe is better for this application since you want the bolt to have as many threads engaged as practical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T14:19:32.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2326" CreationDate="2015-12-15T14:50:57.717" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Knowing how will only come with experience. I generally start by clamping loosely in both directions (length &amp;amp; side to side) and tighten as I move toward the desired tightness. I also clamp to keep the board flat to avoid unneeded sanding. Once the adhesive (I use Titebond III) is dry I use my table saw to square the uneven edges. Let me know if this works for you. I will help you until you get the experience needed to move forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1537" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-12-16T01:49:15.527" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T01:49:15.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2997" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2998" CreationDate="2015-12-15T14:57:18.610" Score="5" ViewCount="3880" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently been offered some black walnut lumber for free. As a wood carver who does all of his work by hand, I'm intrigued by getting the chance to work with black walnut, as it looks like a very beautiful wood (normally I just work with basswood).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing that does concern me though is the wood's hardness. I've never worked with it before, and was wondering if it would be a wood that could be worked by hand? And is it the type of wood that is going to dull my tools so that I'll need to resharpen them every few minutes if I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="82" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-12-21T16:13:18.470" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T16:13:18.470" Title="Will black walnut dull my carving tools" Tags="|wood|tool-maintenance|carving|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2997" CreationDate="2015-12-15T15:12:35.687" Score="11" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never worked with it before, and was wondering if it would be a wood that could be worked by hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, absolutely.  Black walnut isn't really all that hard of a wood, comparatively.  Looking at &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Janka_hardness_test&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Janka hardness testing&lt;/a&gt;, black walnut is about 1010 pound-force.  By comparison, basswood is about 410 and purpleheart is 1860.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would consider purpleheart very hard to carve.  Also, purpleheart is siliceous, meaning that it has silicon particles naturally present in the wood.  These dull tools fast.  Walnut, as far as I know, does not have these compounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some tips from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/lumber/wood-species-1/black-walnut/?page=6&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;WOOD Magazine&lt;/a&gt; on carving walnut:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Walnut works best for sculptures and large figures with simple lines, or signs and relief carvings. If you do select walnut for a carving project, remember these tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deep cuts along the grain may cause the wood to pop out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Walnut's grain varies from very open to almost closed, depending on where it grew. Each performs differently. Open-grain walnut carves easier. Closed-grain walnut may be more difficult to carve, but it takes a finer finish.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that black walnut machines very well with hand tools and will take a good finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And is it the type of wood that is going to dull my tools so that I'll need to resharpen them ever few minutes if I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every few minutes?  Probably not, unless you're hogging out a ton of material very rapidly or your tools are made of crap steel.  With any carving, you'll have to touch up the tool edges with a strop once you notice they're cutting slower, but that's all part of the fun.  You'll have to hone more frequently than with basswood, but not to such an extent that it's annoying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've recently been offered some black walnut lumber for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't look a gift horse in the mouth.  Take the wood!  Black walnut is one of my favorites, and even if you don't carve it, I'm sure you can find other uses for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T15:12:35.687" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2986" CreationDate="2015-12-15T15:44:25.590" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In wood I tend to get better results with a non-powered countersink tool, not even a wheel brace (the hand drill you mention in another comment).  I can't find a suitably-licensed image online, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rapidonline.com/tools-equipment/draper-19241-13mm-hand-held-countersink-bit-91-3943&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here's a picture&lt;/a&gt; of a dedicated tool.  You can do the same by using your bit in a non-ratchet screwdriver handle.  Don't push too hard.  For small holes (up to say a 6mm screw) in softwood/chip/mdf etc. it's quick -- depending on the job, quicker than swapping bits all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T15:44:25.590" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3000" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-15T16:58:06.720" Score="3" ViewCount="2014" Body="&lt;p&gt;My latest tool acquisition is a biscuit joiner, just ordered it (I am really just an amateur builder, would not call myself a wood working enthusiast). I have used a friend's before for some rather simple joints (e.g. I joined two 1x6x12s to form a really long hallway baseboard that looks seamless).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, what I would like to do now is make a joint where an edge of one 1x piece of lumber goes into the actual wide surface of another piece, forming a T (in fact, the pedestal of the T is the former and the cap is the latter).  While it's clear how I would make biscuit cuts in the pedestal (where they go in the 3/4&quot; edge), is there a way to make corresponding cuts in the middle of the wide surface with a regular biscuit joiner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="328" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-12-15T20:51:12.070" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T21:07:46.050" Title="Can a Biscuit Joiner Make T-joints?" Tags="|joinery|power-tools|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3000" CreationDate="2015-12-15T19:21:42.777" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;is there a way to make corresponding cuts in the middle of the wide surface with a regular biscuit joiner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless your biscuit joiner has a removable fence or one that you can adjust to zero angle, most likely not.  The blade for a biscuit joiner only sticks out ~3/4&quot; at the most when cutting, and the fences I've seen for them stick out further still.  Thus, the blade would not stick out past the fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if your biscuit joiner has a removable fence, this should be a pretty trivial task.  Simply remove the fence and use another board as a fence to get your biscuits at the middle of your wide piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way to get the same effect, though this is a lot more work, is to rip the cap piece in half, cut your biscuits to accept the pedestal, assemble the L-shaped piece, then glue back on the rest of the cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-12-16T14:32:00.810" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T14:32:00.810" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3002" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-15T22:39:45.117" Score="4" ViewCount="2431" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have conflicting answers from vendors whether venting a dust collector directly outside will harm the DC motor.  Make up air is not a problem.  I can discharge into a field, and nearest neighbor is 1/4 mile away.  I would like to avoid the cost and cleaning considerations of filter bags/cannisters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1542" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T19:04:55.617" Title="Will a dust collector motor be harmed by venting outside and not using filters?" Tags="|dust-collection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3000" CreationDate="2015-12-16T13:18:41.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually most newer biscuit joiners make this easy. Mine has a lot of adjustments available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first which most have (though not all) is a depth adjustment, allowing you to find the center of different sized boards, or on really thick boards to put two rows of biscuits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ovfKt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ovfKt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other adjustment is the angle of the fence allowing use of making biscuit joints in 45 degree corners (and many others).  Mine will adjust to 90 degrees, allowing me to make a biscuit cut on any surface large enough to handle it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ji3KK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ji3KK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the last adjustment is for cutting different sized slots for the different sized biscuits available, #0, 10, 20 etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lr5cc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lr5cc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T13:18:41.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3002" CreationDate="2015-12-16T13:28:44.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it depends on the machine.  Many dust collector motors are designed to run against a certain amount of resistance provided by the actual dust collecting parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My system wouldn't work the way you intend because of the design, however, my dad's dust collector is basically a large fan mounted on the wall.  His is designed to do what you appear to want, however, he couldn't just let it vent straight out with the 8&quot; pipe it was designed for.  He ended up having to constrict it down to a 4&quot; pipe so there was enough resistance he wouldn't burn out the motor.  The other option was to give it about 20' of pipe to push the dust through, which wasn't convenient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the answer is both yes and no.  Yes if you just vent it straight out you could severely damage your motor after some use.  However, there are ways to fix the problem.  I would recommend getting the help of an electrician to figure out the load balance needed but it can be done without damaging your motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T13:28:44.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3005" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3007" CreationDate="2015-12-16T15:41:39.343" Score="5" ViewCount="965" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a wooden table, which I accidentally spilled water onto yesterday. I thought it would simply dry, but a couple of hours later I noticed that the water had pooled on the wood and the surface under the pool appeared discolored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I dried it off and noticed that the gray discoloration was coming off, so I scrubbed all of the gray off, and afterward the color looked consistent. Unfortunately, a few hours later I found that the area under the pools now looks completely different from the rest of the table. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that I accidentally removed the stain from the wood. I know nothing about this topic though, so I wanted to ask the experts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you think happened here?&#xA;How can I fix it?&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bdKif.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bdKif.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A picture of the current state of the table is attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1545" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T10:17:06.783" Title="How to fix water damage to wooden table" Tags="|wood|staining|wood-repair|water-protection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2896" CreationDate="2015-12-16T18:30:34.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Woodbin.com has some good design resources for furniture, check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodbin.com/ref/furniture-design/shelves/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.woodbin.com/ref/furniture-design/shelves/&lt;/a&gt; they suggest 10-12&quot; deep as a common standard, they also have some good information on how wide vs how thick your shelf stock is, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1547" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T18:30:34.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3005" CreationDate="2015-12-16T22:17:33.897" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What do you think happened here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like the water either got under the finish and caused it to bubble up/peel or the water partially dissolved the finish, which you then scrubbed off by accident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How can I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's finished the shellac, you might be able to apply some new shellac and buff it into the existing finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, if it's a film-type finish like polyurethane varnish, you're pretty much limited to removing the old finish and doing it over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've got some good answers on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/80134/how-to-fix-water-damage-to-wooden-table&quot;&gt;cross-post in DIY&lt;/a&gt; too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T22:17:33.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3008" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3009" CreationDate="2015-12-16T22:34:51.577" Score="7" ViewCount="34424" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is a carcass (or carcase)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the term have general usages in woodworking outside of cabinetry?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cabinet, for example, consider the American style one on the right:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eQicm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eQicm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I remove the doors, face frame, and shelf, am I left with the carcass? What about the back panel, is that part of it? Is it even less than that? Can I remove the top and bottom panels and just call the sides + back the carcass? Does the type of joinery used (e.g. detachable vs. permanent) affect it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2015-12-16T23:01:07.680" LastActivityDate="2020-08-10T18:33:57.130" Title="What part of a cabinet is the &quot;carcass&quot;?" Tags="|terminology|cabinetry|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3008" CreationDate="2015-12-16T22:49:42.543" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The body of the object. The case or other major structure that carries the door, drawers, shelves, et cetera. May be a box of some kind, may be a tabletop and supports, may be other. Usually the thing that gets the name -- the chest in a chest of drawers, the workbench in a wokbench with various storage and vises, the case in a bookcase -- but not always (though I don't have a good counterexample right now).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2015-12-17T13:31:18.337" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T13:31:18.337" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3010" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3012" CreationDate="2015-12-16T23:38:51.230" Score="8" ViewCount="30308" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that pre-drilling before screwing has many advantages but am wondering if pre-drilling is also useful for nailing. Pre-drilling for nailing seems to make sense because nailing also causes wood splitting. But, it may be disadvantageous because it may reduce the power to grip the nails, making them loose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I pre-drill before nailing or not? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1278" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2015-12-17T02:46:28.390" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T12:02:22.323" Title="Should I pre-drill before nailing?" Tags="|nailing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3010" CreationDate="2015-12-17T07:28:28.117" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is a danger of the nail splitting the work piece, PRE-DRILL. Otherwise nail away.. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1550" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T07:28:28.117" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3010" CreationDate="2015-12-17T12:02:22.323" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should I pre-drill before nailing or not? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately the answer to this is, it depends. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With certain woods, particularly when nailing near the ends of boards, pre-drilling can be advisable. A different fix when nailing near the end of a board is to leave the board over-long (where possible) and then cut to length after the nails have been driven home. This is often done on decking boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When nailing along the length of a board another way to lessen the tendency towards splitting is to stagger nail positions so that you're not driving the nails in aligned with the grain:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VzcmP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VzcmP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Staggered v. unstaggered nailing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case you're unaware, the type of nail matters here. Nails with blunt tips, perhaps counter-intuitively, split wood less than sharp nails because they crush wood fibres as they go in rather than parting the wood ahead of them (working like a wedge). And oval nails are better than round nails as long as the long axis is oriented correctly, in line with the grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where the nails you're using are sharp and you'd like to take advantage of the effect of a blunt tip a very old tip is to put the head of the nail on a hard surface and tap the tip with the hammer to blunt it, but it's very easy with soft wire nails for this blunting blow to bend the nail slightly. So it's much more reliable to snip the tip off the nail with side snips or pliers. Nails are commonly only mild steel wire and even with a beefy nail this isn't too difficult to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;But, it may be disadvantageous because it may reduce the power to grip the nails, making them loose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the hole is drilled full size that will occur. The drilled hole should be undersized, roughly 75% of the diameter of the nail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T12:02:22.323" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3000" CreationDate="2015-12-17T14:50:17.360" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most biscuit joiners will let you either take the fence off or fold it up to 90 degrees (e.g. the &lt;a href=&quot;http://makitatools.com/en-us/Modules/Tools/ToolDetails.aspx?Name=PJ7000&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Makita PJ7000&lt;/a&gt; - I own this - has a removable fence, while the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dewalt.com/tools/woodworking-plate-joiners-dw682k.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dewalt DW682&lt;/a&gt;'s fence folds up to 90 degrees). After this, like the other answers say, the T joints are fairly trivial. Biscuit joints lend themselves very well to this, in fact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.familyhandyman.com/woodworking/wood-joints/how-to-make-a-biscuit-joint/view-all&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a great how-to by Ken Collier of The Family Handyman here&lt;/a&gt;. Reproducing some of that (it uses shelving as an example but these same marking and cutting techniques can be applied to anything):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is where joinery shines: the T-joint, where a fixed shelf meets the sides of a cabinet (Photos 1 – 3). The sideways wiggle room that biscuits give you allows you to get the edges of the shelf and the sides perfectly flush, and the case looks good, with or without a face frame, both inside and out. And since the glue is all on the biscuits, there’s rarely any squeeze-out to clean up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process for making a T-joint begins with marking on the edge of the sides where the top of the shelf should be. Stand the shelf in position and mark the biscuit locations. Then lay the shelf on its side, lined up with its location mark. Clamp the side and shelf together and to your bench, with the edges flush to each other. Now cut your biscuit slots, first in one piece, then in the other. Do the other side of the cabinet the same way, making sure the shelf is oriented the right way: front to front, bottom to the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/psrKA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/psrKA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a video on that site, if you scroll down to the &lt;em&gt;Making Cabinet Boxes With T-Joints&lt;/em&gt; section, at the bottom of it you will find the video.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another more to-the-point video can be found on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lamello.com/en/home/join-wood/lamello-system/classic-x.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Lamello site&lt;/a&gt;. There's a series of product demonstration videos on that page, the one you want is titled &lt;em&gt;Dividing Panel Joint&lt;/em&gt; and is currently the 4th one over in the series.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T21:07:46.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3014" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3018" CreationDate="2015-12-17T16:48:17.713" Score="9" ViewCount="351" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built this wall-hanging cabinet with a door on the front that opens upwards (plain old hinges on exterior face, not installed yet) (there's space on the back for a cleat, not super apparent in images below):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/boVgE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/boVgE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It did not assemble well. It is not usable. It was assembled like so; consider the following drawing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KPtwr.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KPtwr.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I built the side and door frames. Pocket hole joints used for frame components because I had to assemble to chamfer inner edges before finishing, but had to disassemble to insert the screens after finishing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I cut the three panels and glued them together, just butt joint. When gluing I clamped around the outside in line with the vertical panel and inserted spacers as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I then glued the side frames on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The frames are pine and the panels are 7/16&quot; ply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I had designed, measured, followed the rule of cutting to reality instead of design, dry fit and dry fit again, followed all the rules I've discovered (make all same-length cuts at once without adjusting settings, all that, etc), but still I ran into the following issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The top and bottom panels weren't glued at perfect right angles. I had to apply significant force to hold them true when gluing the sides on.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Gaps, somehow things weren't flat any more when assembled:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ukw2K.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ukw2K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Panels were too short vertically, and it was inconsistent (some corners looked OK, others were way off):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CgVOu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CgVOu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Biggest of all, the door, despite looking fine throughout the whole process, was somehow magically a good 1/8&quot; or so too wide at the end, and with gaps on the sides:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZdjKA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZdjKA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Also the top panel was bowed downwards in the center, mostly as a result of the forces applied to the edges trying to make it straight when gluing the sides on; problematic because the hinges need to go there:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GHmuq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GHmuq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I think the frames (sides and door) came together well, and almost all of the problems were due to various issues with the panels. I shouldn't have even proceeded to glue it up to begin with after noticing that the panels weren't 90 degrees. I also didn't do that one final dry fit. I'm not sure where in the building and finishing process I lost material on the panels. The frames are sized consistently with each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have since cut the sides off, removed the panel stubs, and refinished the sides, so I have a second chance at this. I now have the frames, assembled and finished, ready to go again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is: &lt;strong&gt;How could I have designed this differently from the start (particularly joining the panels to the frames) that could have both avoided all these problems and also lessen the tolerances that I needed to cut things to?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And how can I salvage it given that I have the sides detached again? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as salvaging goes: What I am &lt;em&gt;thinking&lt;/em&gt; is rabbeting the top and bottom of the side frames, and cutting a slot in the side frames for the vertical, and also cutting a slot in the top and bottom panels for the vertical. Then the top and bottom will be flush, and any slop / inaccuracies in the back can be hidden in the slots. And I won't glue the panels to each other first, instead I'll glue the sides and panels all in one shot. My side frames probably aren't flat any more anyways due to sanding so even if I wanted to butt them against the panels I don't think it would work now. Does this seem reasonable? The minor downside is just aesthetic; it will make the side frames appear thinner than the door from the top and bottom, and you'll see the rabbets with the door open. The other alternative is biscuits, although the plywood feels a bit thin for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would you have built this cabinet, from the start, to avoid the problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2015-12-17T22:27:01.760" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T15:11:54.677" Title="How could I have designed this cabinet to avoid assembly and alignment problems?" Tags="|technique|design|assembly|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="67" CreationDate="2015-12-17T18:49:30.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Teflon chain oil from Dupont provides a nice tough static and rust free film. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is used for motorcycle chains and has been time tested for not collecting dirt, rust and dust. Have to let it dry on the first application. Just need a small amount too. A bit pungent so spray in well ventilated place. Great for all kinds of metal in humid situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1556" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T18:49:30.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2986" CreationDate="2015-12-18T14:03:23.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason you are getting the best results &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; you predrill is because your countersink does not have a pilot bit of its own to keep it centered. It is relying on The point of the cone to hold it in the hole. the same problem would happen even if you had a pilot bit but the predrilled hole was much larger than the pilot (more than 1/16). &#xA;Also I would guess that the material you are using is especially susceptible to this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solutions: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a countersink bit with a pilot bit. They are quite normal, if not the standard you will find at a major hardware store. Use it to predrill and countersink all at once. You may then use a larger bit if you need the hole larger than the pilot. &#xA;OR&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Instead of predrilling the hole, make a small indent with a nail (or a tool specifically for this which I cannot remember the name for), in order to hold the bit you have in the right position. Sharp bit matters as well. Then drill out the hole.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to do either with a hand power drill. I work almost exclusively with cordless battery power drills and impacts and have no issues. Also the more I've thought of it, material being used really affects how the speed and pressure I would use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A hard wood will offer more resistance and will not do what you have seen so easily. Bring the drill up to speed and then apply pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A soft material, which I believe you were using in the photo, will easily drill poorly. If using #2 then go slowly. This is why I suggest #1 first for it will more consistently and quickly result in a good product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastEditorUserId="1499" LastEditDate="2015-12-18T16:47:06.167" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T16:47:06.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3014" CreationDate="2015-12-18T14:26:29.903" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general (IMO) when using plywood paneling like this it can be very hard to treat it like a regular board.  So I would recommend (almost always) to frame it where ever it is being used for a panel.  (what you are planning on doing with rabbets and slots).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No matter how well I try to cut sheet material, I get a little curve on long cuts or just a catch and either a dip or bump.  If you have a cabinet saw and/or a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000EZVVJA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;carriage&lt;/a&gt; for the saw to make long cuts cleanly you have a much better chance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for this one, I would do what you are saying for the sides and bottom, 'frame' in the panels and I would have likely made the top out of glued up wood.  Also to help (in either case) I would run a small board, maybe 1&quot; x 3/4&quot; along the front of the board on the inside to help stiffen the front edge of the board to keep it from sagging in the middle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T14:26:29.903" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3019" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3021" CreationDate="2015-12-18T14:53:44.193" Score="9" ViewCount="10954" Body="&lt;p&gt;The jaws and throats of most clamps don't allow much space for securing deeper on larger panels, boards or pieces. Sure, toggle clamps can be placed anywhere but you need to damage a surface in order to place them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are deep throat clamps. I found some that are 8 inches deep and that is good. But if you needed to clamp something that required a deeper throat it would not do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am picturing some sort of jig using boards to span from the edge of the work to the clamping location but I don't see that having enough downward pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forgive me if I lost you up until this point but for an extreme example: What if I wanted to clamp down a drill guide in the center of a 20 inch square board? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T05:36:10.197" Title="How to clamp where clamps cannot reach?" Tags="|technique|clamps|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3019" CreationDate="2015-12-18T15:02:18.897" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some sort of caul.  You can make one to apply pressure at a single point, or have a slight curve to apply pressure more evenly across a panel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Ab7z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Ab7z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image from Highland Woodworking.Com&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2015-12-18T18:50:33.217" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T18:50:33.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3019" CreationDate="2015-12-18T15:02:28.980" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The long board clamped across the piece is a valid plan. But to get the downward force where you need it you'll need to put something between the board and the clamp area. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A simple candidate is a block of wood and a wedge to fine tune the clamping force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can replace the wedge with a screw that will push against the block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodgears.ca/table/tiled_top.html&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://woodgears.ca/table/clamping-b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the board will flex as you add clamping force so you may need to readjust all previously applied clamps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T15:02:28.980" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3014" CreationDate="2015-12-18T15:11:54.677" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first guess would be that some of the boards are not four square and flat.  Lay a straightedge across the length of each board and make sure it is flat.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are attaching things with pocket screws, the boards have a tendency to creep a little bit, since the screw is at an angle.  If the boards are not well clamped, you can get about 1/16&quot; - 3/32&quot; of movement when tightening the pocket screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T15:11:54.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3019" CreationDate="2015-12-18T16:58:03.923" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can always make long-throat clamps, like these ones by Matthias Wandel:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5U7ufIyBaos&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://img.youtube.com/vi/5U7ufIyBaos/mqdefault.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Video thumbnail&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Making long reach C clamps&lt;/strong&gt; on YouTube&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T16:58:03.923" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2978" CreationDate="2015-12-18T17:36:15.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally I like to put a screw in a non visible spot and then finish the piece. Once done then you can hang it. If you're spraying then you can hang it prior to applying the finish. One of the last times I used this was a bunch of shelves that were painted white on both sides and the edges. I put a screw on the side and used that to keep the piece standing on the back edge so it wouldn't fall over. While the finish on those sides wasn't perfect it didn't really need to be since the only time someone would see the imperfection is when moving shelves around. I could have hung the shelves with a bit more work but chose not to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="105" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T17:36:15.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3019" CreationDate="2015-12-18T18:47:00.030" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Strong magnets...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example if the board is thin and you have access to a magnetic drill you can place a piece of steel plate behind the wood board and the magnetic drill will pull against that during drilling operations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="453" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T18:47:00.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3002" CreationDate="2015-12-18T19:04:55.617" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For most fans, if you restrict the exhaust, the fan will turn slower as the motor tries to push the air it sucked in against the restriction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have an unrestricted open exhaust and for some reason the inlet gets clogged, likely occurrence for a dust collector, the impeller will spin up to the unloaded speed (almost) of the  motor. &#xA;As there is less air for the blower to process, there is also less air friction, it is basically running in the partial vacuum it created.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the impeller or motor is not rated for operating that speed, damage could occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think DC motors without speed controllers have that problem most often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="453" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T19:04:55.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3027" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-18T22:30:06.697" Score="6" ViewCount="1258" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I want to round the edge of a long board, something like the front and back of the desk I attached. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EQ9B9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EQ9B9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;mid century rosewood and brass desk&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What techniques can I use to achieve this? It's obviously too wide to use a router (unless you have a 12-inch round over...), and it's much too long to use a bandsaw. How could you do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1558" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2015-12-19T11:01:13.380" LastActivityDate="2015-12-19T11:01:13.380" Title="What methods could I use to round the edge of a thick board?" Tags="|technique|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3027" CreationDate="2015-12-18T23:02:26.480" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easy way: Bending plywood over supports, veneered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hard and expensive way: Start with angled tablesaw rip-cuts to approximate the shape, refine with planes to create more/smaller facets, sand to final roundness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-12-19T00:21:13.877" LastActivityDate="2015-12-19T00:21:13.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3029" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3030" CreationDate="2015-12-19T09:35:14.017" Score="7" ViewCount="22183" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a wood board where I can place my phone in the middle, and the screen of the phone will be flush with the surface of the board. Basically the phone would be recessed inside the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if my phone is 10mm thick and my board is 20mm thick, I want to make a recess 10mm thick to match the phone and have a 10mm backing behind it, and preferably no other markings anywhere on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't seem to think of a way to make the recess. Any advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1560" LastActivityDate="2015-12-19T20:00:47.830" Title="How to make a recess in a board" Tags="|technique|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3029" CreationDate="2015-12-19T10:45:07.247" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The recess you're looking to make is in essence a shallow mortise, much like the type used to hold the stone in a traditional oilstone box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most basic way to do this is with a chisel and mallet, after carefully marking out and, ideally, knifing the edges of the recess you want to make (the knife-cut lines help produce clean edges). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It must be said, this is easier said than done and getting a flat, horizontal bottom to the mortise in particular is challenging to do just with a chisel. For this reason the bulk of the material is often taken out by chisel and the final flattening of the bottom is done using a router. This is a hand router, not a modern power tool. Where one is not available the chisel router or &quot;poor-man's router&quot; is a cheap, reasonably effective alternative than can be made in just minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above method is shown well on &lt;a href=&quot;https://paulsellers.com/2014/11/steps-to-making-a-traditional-oilstone-box/&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; from Paul Sellers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bottom of the mortise doesn't need to be absolutely featureless a lot of the grunt work can be done by drilling away the excess wood, as mentioned by Paul above. The most-used bit for this purpose these days is a Forstner bit, which will leave a small hole in the centre of an otherwise flat circle as you can see in the link below. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method is shown in brief on &lt;a href=&quot;http://norsewoodsmith.com/content/oil-stone-boxes&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; of the Norse Woodsmith site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that Forstner bits are best used with a drill press or with a power drill held in a drill stand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Router&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If a modern power router is available it is simplicity itself to cut a recess like this, you can freehand the cut to close to your marked lines and then trim the edges by hand, carefully chopping with a chisel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you can make a template and with a suitable bearing bit in the router you'll cut a near-perfect rectangle through the hole in the template. The corners will naturally be slightly rounded and normally these would be squared up, again using a chisel, but for a phone it may actually be favourable to have rounded corners. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: you may want to provide a cutout on one of the straight sides to allow you to lift the phone from the recess. Especially in the case of a very neat fit the phone might be very difficult to remove from a deep recess otherwise!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-12-19T10:45:07.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3027" CreationDate="2015-12-19T10:59:36.203" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sort of bullnose profile is very easily achieved by hand planing, followed by scraping and/or sanding. The bulk of the wood could be removed using a spokeshave, but all the work could be done with one or more planes if required. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After marking your profiles on both ends you begin work by chamfering the corners to take off the bulk of the excess wood, then take the resulting corners off, then take those corners off and so forth until you're nearly at your marked lines. Then you scrape or sand to the final round profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-12-19T10:59:36.203" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3032" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-19T12:50:41.337" Score="2" ViewCount="870" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lightest woods that would be strong &amp;amp; stable for components of DIY Wall Stall bar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Maybe this list can help you help me in shortlisting.&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Reference list of possible woods available but may not be complete/&#xA;  comprehensive:  :&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Indian_timber_trees&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Indian_timber_trees&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am guessing both of these could be made of different wood, each with different strength/ hardness/ flex/ weight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wooden parallel bars/ rods/ dowels&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are less thick than the frame &amp;amp; probably need greater strength, rigidity &amp;amp; less flex  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Frame&lt;/strong&gt; holding them &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Made of thicker, wider &amp;amp; bigger pieces of wood, adding more to the weight, so a lighter wood would be better  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can this be made from plywood? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Which woods would you recommend for 2 components as a good/ best possible combination?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dimensions &amp;amp; Location:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Typical standard width is - 34&quot; - Just the space I have now.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there's no negative impact, I may consider going upto 38&quot;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Indian City that tends to be humid &amp;amp; tropical - If its a factor let me know &amp;amp; I can post more details. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Additional Context: Why am I asking for the lighter wood combination?&lt;/strong&gt;   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;These will be removable / mountable from the wall, so lighter is better.&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/HomeImprovement/comments/3vwbg4/question_hardware_mechanisms_to_make_it_quick/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.reddit.com/r/HomeImprovement/comments/3vwbg4/question_hardware_mechanisms_to_make_it_quick/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;3 mounting alternatives gathered from Reddit discussion: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;French Cleats&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Split Batten &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Piranha Lox - Mounting System&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sample Stall bar: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kPaBd.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kPaBd.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1064" LastEditorUserId="1064" LastEditDate="2015-12-19T14:25:56.147" LastActivityDate="2015-12-19T19:54:22.680" Title="Lightest woods that would be strong &amp; stable for 2 components of DIY Wall Stall bar?" Tags="|wood-selection|strength|durability|moisture|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3032" CreationDate="2015-12-19T13:16:22.373" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just make the verticals out of run of the mill fir construction lumber, 2x2s or 2x4s, or 4x4s, (or whatever if metric, sorry!) and buy some thick dowels, maybe 2&quot;, for the horizontals, whatever's in the hardware store dowel rack (or order online). A 2x6 for that back piece on the wall. I wouldn't over think it. You'll be able to hold an elephant up with it regardless. I wouldn't worry about the weight either, the differences between different woods will be virtually negligible compared to what typical wall mount strategies support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If fir is not available, just use whatever typical construction wood is available locally. Anything, really. Every wood in your list from the comments is more than sufficient. The differences in density will amount to just a few lbs/kgs range with the small amount of wood you are using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do want to get your overengineering on, though, check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wood-database.com&lt;/a&gt;. You can compare densities, bending strengths, and stabilities of woods there. Your requirements are pretty low, so I would just stick to wood that is readily available in your area instead of finding and ordering more exotic woods (unless you are going for aesthetics or conversation topics).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2015-12-19T17:40:22.780" LastActivityDate="2015-12-19T17:40:22.780" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3034" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3038" CreationDate="2015-12-19T18:28:32.910" Score="4" ViewCount="1930" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gerstner tool chests were legendary for their quality, especially their smooth drawer action. How was this achieved, just a nice close fit or were other measures involved? If I could get access to a real Gerstner (not the fake ones made now) I could answer this myself, but they cost about $700 for real ones, so I am hoping somebody who has access to a real one can check it and let me know exactly how the drawers are done. This is what they look like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sN3Bz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sN3Bz.png&quot; alt=&quot;Gerstner Tool Chest&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T23:26:09.987" Title="Gerstner tool box drawer action" Tags="|cabinetry|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3034" CreationDate="2015-12-19T19:05:13.590" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Forward&lt;/strong&gt;: I don't own one of these chests, authentic or otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chests of this style are certainly a marvel of tolerance for their design. &#xA;Looking at an image of one (presumably authentic) you can see the drawers use a tongue and groove. The front is a lap (I can actually see on the 3rd drawer down on the right has something more than a lap but I can't name that joinery. Possibly a locked rabbet) that can prevent the drawer from going to far back but more likely just hides the groove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e9Ijg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e9Ijg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image of Model O-41-C from &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/H._Gerstner_%26_Sons&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would speculate that wax is used to keep the drawer slides moving fluid but I do not know for sure.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key in making the proximity of these drawers work would be that the groove of the drawer and tongue would be near perfectly matched to prevent vertical movement. Simple drawers, like you would see in a dresser, float over a similar tongue but have more range of movement which would not be ideal for a chest like this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that this does not have to be perfect. You can see the bottom drawer of the picture not resting perfectly as it was pulled out too far. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-12-19T21:24:55.407" LastActivityDate="2015-12-19T21:24:55.407" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3032" CreationDate="2015-12-19T19:54:22.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend making the structural parts of the construction out of oak because it is strong and durable and holds fittings well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The round bars I would make from ash. Ash is a straight, flexible and resilient wood. Things like hammer handles and poles are made from ash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2015-12-19T19:54:22.680" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3029" CreationDate="2015-12-19T20:00:47.830" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest way would be to make it out of two pieces of wood. Cut an outline of the phone in the top board with a jig saw. Then attach a backing board behind that with glue, screws, dowels or however you want. Very fast and simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are determined to make it out of one piece of wood, then it would be best to use a router. If you have not used a router before, you will need to practice and experiment with it to build up the skill to make a nice clean pocket. (By the way the technical term used by machinists for what you want to make is a &lt;em&gt;pocket&lt;/em&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using hand tools would probably just cause frustration and is not recommended. It takes a long time to become skilled with hand tools and they have to be sharpened which is difficult to do without a lot of experience. So, stick with one of the two methods I have described previously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2015-12-19T20:00:47.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3034" CreationDate="2015-12-19T22:52:53.333" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also do not own one of these. However, Gerstner offers a DIY tool chest build kit, with video instructions. I am presuming their DIY kits are constructed similarly to their pre-built chests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gerstnerusa.com/opencart/index.php?route=product/product&amp;amp;filter_name=35a&amp;amp;product_id=179&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;5-drawer kit&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gerstnerusa.com/opencart/index.php?route=product/product&amp;amp;product_id=178&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;7-drawer kit&lt;/a&gt;, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gerstnerusa.com/2610-kit-chest&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2610 kit&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gerstnerusa.com/index.php?route=product/search&amp;amp;filter_name=kit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a few others&lt;/a&gt;. There are pictures of the parts there (&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EXZxT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here are the drawer and cabinet parts for one of the kits&lt;/a&gt;, although the drawer slides are facing down and not visible). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More interestingly, there are three assembly instruction videos showing exactly how they are put together. In particular, there is a drawer fitting and assembly video:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aQzaySe-CjY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://img.youtube.com/vi/aQzaySe-CjY/mqdefault.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Video thumbnail&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Drawer Fitting/Assembly Demo - &lt;strong&gt;Gerstner &amp;amp; Sons&lt;/strong&gt; on YouTube&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drawer slides are tongue and groove (I think that's what you'd call them). They're just fit snuggly. Jump to 20:00 in the video where drawer fitting is discussed. In the kits, the drawers are provided slightly taller and wider intentionally, and then the drawers are sanded down until the fit is perfect. This is probably the key: If you build your own, give yourself a very small bit of extra material rather than trying to cut to fit to begin with, then sand to fit after assembly of your drawers and cabinet. The grooves are pre-cut, probably to a pretty good tolerance (in the video it doesn't appear that the slides are touched up during fit), but perhaps in your own drawers you could cut your grooves &lt;em&gt;slightly&lt;/em&gt; narrower then widen them during assembly to fit. Also the video suggests marking the drawers to indicate their positions after fitting, since drawers will be fit to specific spots. It does not appear that any wax or anything is applied, although that may not be uncalled for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another point in the video is the drawers have &quot;tails&quot;, that is the sides extend beyond the back by a half inch or so. This is intended to help keep the drawer on track even when it is pulled out all the way. (Whether you choose to view this as the sides being longer vs. the inside being smaller is just a matter of perspective. It's really just so that the drawer can stay on track without ever having inside space that is obstructed by the door above it, at the expense of inside space.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other two videos are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GVBYe9d9xyw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://img.youtube.com/vi/GVBYe9d9xyw/mqdefault.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Video thumbnail&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Pre-Assembly Demo - &lt;strong&gt;Gerstner &amp;amp; Sons&lt;/strong&gt; on YouTube&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AeGQnNF9Dc8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://img.youtube.com/vi/AeGQnNF9Dc8/mqdefault.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Video thumbnail&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Chest/Lid Assembly Demo - &lt;strong&gt;Gerstner &amp;amp; Sons&lt;/strong&gt; on YouTube&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2015-12-20T17:23:01.473" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T17:23:01.473" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3039" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3043" CreationDate="2015-12-20T01:05:44.020" Score="3" ViewCount="230" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an old growth forest near where I live. For sake of argument lets move past the most absolute certainty that I cannot remove anything from the premises. Likely to help the ecosystem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the logs there, that were cut to make paths, are rather large (greater than 3 feet in diameter). I have lived near the area for almost a decade and some of the larger ones barely show any signs of decay short of some moss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure If I can put my foot through it - too rotten. Too many holes - Current or previous infestation. What should I be looking for &lt;strong&gt;on site&lt;/strong&gt; to assess if felled wood might still be viable for processing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-12-20T15:25:04.870" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T15:25:04.870" Title="Milling previously felled logs" Tags="|wood-selection|green-wood|making-lumber|milling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3040" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3042" CreationDate="2015-12-20T01:36:35.140" Score="3" ViewCount="950" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was reading about extendable tables I saw the word &lt;em&gt;camber&lt;/em&gt;. What does it mean? What steps do I need to take to avoid it. I tried looking it up but the information was about aligning tires of a vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If someone can direct me to where I can enrich my knowledge on this issue while providing the woodworking definition that would be great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1563" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-12-20T15:46:42.633" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T18:54:08.630" Title="What is a camber exactly?" Tags="|furniture|terminology|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3040" CreationDate="2015-12-20T03:00:18.023" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The word &quot;camber&quot; is just a word, it means &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/camber&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a slight convexity in a surface&lt;/a&gt;. So without context it's just wild guesses...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're talking about hand planes, it's a convex curve applied to the normally straight blade, in the plane of the blade. It can be achieved by grinding the blade into an arc. Image from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/blog/269&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;toolsforworkingwood.com&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/blog/269&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RedYd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the reasons to do it is to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/comments/3kp95e/do_you_really_need_to_camber_plane_irons/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;eliminate ridges formed at the sides of the plane when planing large surfaces and/or make cutting easier&lt;/a&gt;. Whether it's something you really want to do or not seems to be a topic of debate, so I guess it comes down to personal preference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a good article about it &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/29774/how-much-camber-should-be-in-plane-irons&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and a nice video &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-to/video/the-proper-camber-on-a-handplane-blade.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes a good way to find better search results for ambigious topics is to include the general field you're looking for with the word. For example, &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=camber%20woodworking&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;camber woodworking&lt;/a&gt;&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not talking about hand planes then you need to provide more context. If you're talking about tables perhaps it meant angles on the legs or something. If you're talking about cars visit &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/&quot;&gt;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:21.183" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T06:23:41.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3040" CreationDate="2015-12-20T05:05:03.903" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.osbornewood.com/table-slides-information.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Osborne Wood Products&lt;/a&gt; --&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is important to note that our table slides have a camber to them to compensate for the natural sag of the table. Choosing the incorrect type of slide for your table may accentuate the natural sag of the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this context, camber is a hump or a dip that offsets the center sag or end sag of the table. (Tables with legs that move away from each other tend to sag in the middle. Tables supported centrally where the leaves move away will sag at the edges.) So, based on the design of your table, you'd opt for slides with one camber or another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T18:54:08.630" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3039" CreationDate="2015-12-20T15:14:46.710" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Part of it depends on what you are planning to do with it.  using it to make fine furniture, the limit is much earlier than if you are going to use it for more artistic pursuits such as turning bowls or making panels from the spalted wood for beautiful accents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me, how I go about it is I have my chain saw handy (I'm often making firewood when doing this so nothing really goes to waste).  I'll start at one end or the other and cut firewood sized pieces off the log.  Looking for good solid wood through the center.  I'll do this for logs that started to rot from the center up (or down) as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes I'll find I've cut off a piece that will make cool bowl blanks, and that will be what is is saved for.  Once I get to a place the wood looks 'solid' enough to bother using a mill, I'll mark off about 8.5' and cut the log again.  with any luck it will look similar to the other end.  At which point I'll try another 8.5' etc.  Of course while marking the 'log' length you need to look for places large branches broke off and might be rotting into the center of the log, these can possibly ruin 2-3 feet of the log in the center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done this the most with oak, and you can have soft squishy rotted wood an inch or two thick and the center can still be wonderfully firm.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to look for before even cutting into it is how the log is lying on the land and the conditions it is lying in.  Marshy land can ruin a log for anything but bowl blanks in a long hot summer.  Dryer uplands one can last quite a bit longer and still produce some colorful boards.  if the tree is 'spanning' a distance, (not touching the ground between to small lumps or a slight curve etc) then it can be good for a very long time, they tend to crack all the way to the center after a while though so they also have a limited time for wood working too, though stay good for firewood!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your time line from when you get to check the wood to when you want to process it, one test that can show you a lot, (even on 'green' trees) is to cut off a firewood sized chunk and let it dry on the driveway or in your shop.  stuff that looks good and solid might look quite a bit different after drying out for a week.  I've had to learn that one the hard way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T15:14:46.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3044" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-20T17:18:34.390" Score="2" ViewCount="5399" Body="&lt;p&gt;To change the blade on the table saw, do I pull the wrench toward the front of the saw to loosen the nut?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-12-21T14:03:28.083" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T18:54:27.340" Title="To change a blade on a table saw, do I pull the wrench toward the front?" Tags="|table-saw|tool-maintenance|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3045" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3050" CreationDate="2015-12-20T20:28:40.987" Score="30" ViewCount="14454" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T0w26.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T0w26.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;wrecked bit&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;When fastening 2x lumber I keep grinding down the bits. I predrill a hole and a push hard as I can on my hammer drill but still wreck the bit. I'm using 2.5&quot; gold screws. Can anyone help with a better screw, better drill,  better bit, or better technique? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE... Thanks everyone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I learned the difference between hammer and impact and have switched to an impact for screws.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am starting to use Roberson and square head fasteners and the difference is amazing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I felt wasteful going through the Philips bits but they sure are cheap in bulk and the old ones can be used as pins/rivets or tossed in the recycling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A bit of beeswax or petroleum jelly on the screw sure makes the 2.5&quot;+ screws go in smoother. Thanks again!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2018-10-30T05:20:48.853" LastActivityDate="2018-11-16T17:30:16.073" Title="Why do I go through so many philips bits?" Tags="|screws|drill-bits|fasteners|" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3046" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3049" CreationDate="2015-12-20T20:42:37.727" Score="6" ViewCount="6023" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to create a grid out of thin wood bars (slats?), where the slats cross each other on the smaller side, like in this sketch:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8bXuI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8bXuI.png&quot; alt=&quot;Wooden grid&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would install LEDs in this grid, so it doesn't need to carry any external weight and the wood slats can be pretty thin. The grid would have a height of about 3-5 cm (1-2 inch) and a length of 50cm (20 inch).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about sawing in the slats half way so I can stick them into each other:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CgmUk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CgmUk.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to do this? I was thinking about using a saw blade that is wider than the slats are thick – so each time I would just have to saw in once and that would be it. Obviously I would need pretty thin wood slats in that case (a few millimeters of MDF maybe?).&#xA;Is this possible? Feasible?&#xA;I have access to a chop saw and a buzz saw (both currently have blades not wider than 2mm) but I'm new to woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this even the best way to create such a grid? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1567" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-12-21T02:10:57.200" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T16:10:23.400" Title="Build a grid out of vertical, thin wood bars" Tags="|joinery|tool-selection|cutting|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3044" CreationDate="2015-12-20T21:22:13.080" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the arbor enters the blade from the left side of the saw (as most do), you need to rotate the top of the nut toward you to loosen it, away from you to tighten it. Note that this way, forces on the blade tend to keep the nut tight rather than encouraging it to work free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-12-20T21:43:01.643" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T21:43:01.643" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3045" CreationDate="2015-12-20T21:54:56.933" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, the angled tip on Philips bits causes them to climb and slip, and round over their edges and/or strip the head of the screw. Often if you buy a pack of screwdriver bits for your drill, it will come with lots of #2 Philips bits because everyone knows that perhaps the most ubiquitous head and size, and at the same time it is very prone to getting rounded over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, using an impact driver helps, as well as predrilling the holes (though you already mentioned you're using a hammer drill and predrilling).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An even more effective solution is to switch to screws with a different type of head.  Robertson (commonly called &quot;square drive&quot;) and Torx (&quot;star&quot;) bits extend straight down into the screw head rather than angling down into it, so they do not climb or slip out of the screw head very easily.  These types of bits engage much more securely with the screw head and are much less likely to slip than a Philips bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another interesting screw head, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://outlawfasteners.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Outlaw&lt;/a&gt;, was developed in the past few years which promises to eliminate stripped screws &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; bit changes. It is basically a series of concentric stepped Allen/hex heads. Because smaller screws only engage with the smaller steps on the screwdriver bit and larger screws simply engage with more steps, you don't have to change bits when working with different screw sizes. Unfortunately, at present these screws are somewhat of a specialty item, they are currently only available in deck screw sizes (as of December 2015), and cost more than twice as much as similarly-spec'd Torx screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-12-22T02:05:02.490" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T02:05:02.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3046" CreationDate="2015-12-20T22:24:58.673" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, this is a great way to make such a grid, although you want the joints to be as tight as possible vs. cutting the slots slightly wider than the slats. With a looser fit, the grid will be more prone to racking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to make a cut to exactly the right width in one pass (up to a limit), you can use a dado set (available in either a &quot;wobble&quot; blade or the more common stacked dado set) to cut to the exact width of your slats, and the blade set to exactly half the height of your slats.  Keep in mind that on a 10&quot; table saw, the common dado set sizes are 8&quot; and 6&quot;, which will limit your depth of cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, you would use a crosscut sled on a table saw with several slats aligned and clamped together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use a radial arm saw with a dado set--it works in a similar fashion but you cut from the top instead of the bottom, and the blade moves instead of the workpiece.  You have to be especially careful since a radial arm saw is configured to make a climb cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a sliding miter saw, you can work similarly to a radial arm saw, but the blade cuts as you push it back instead of as you pull it toward yourself.  As far as I know, no sliding miter saw is designed to be used with a dado blade of any kind, so cutting the slats on a sliding miter saw will require multiple passes to cut the width of a slat, unless working with very thin material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2015-12-20T23:43:25.740" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T23:43:25.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3045" CreationDate="2015-12-20T22:57:30.033" Score="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an extremely common phenomenon and there's nothing you can do to prevent it entirely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You seem to be well aware of the standard bit of advice going back to the days of slotted screws, that it is vital to press hard to fully engage the driver with the screw. But unfortunately with power driving and Phillips-head screws it is virtually inevitable that you will experience the head slipping out at least some of the time (called 'cam out') which will always cause some damage to the screw, to the screwdriver/driver tip, or quite commonly, both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;Why is it so easy? The ugly fact is that Phillips screws were purpose-designed to cam out! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They were not intended to become consumer-level fasteners but rather were for industrial use, the intent being that on production lines where speed was essential the driver should cam out rather than risk the screw being over-tightened, to prevent them being set too deeply, or snapping. And also to help reduce wear and tear on the power drivers themselves (the motors and gearing, not the driver tips — these are a cheap consumable in industrial settings, literally available to buy in boxes of 100 and more).&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; provided by the Comments below, Phillips screws being designed to cam out is apparently a persistent myth, the result of a misunderstanding based on the different use of the term by Phillips in his patent application (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/patents/US2046837&quot;&gt;Phillips 2,046,837&lt;/a&gt;) and in modern usage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The patent application actually states that the design intention was the exact opposite, particularly in the context of power driving, going so far as to claim:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;Moreover, by reason of the perfect fit between the driver and the screw, the screws may be driven and removed innumerable times without the slightest indication of mutilation to the head.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now this may be true if both driver and screw have perfectly matching geometries corresponding with the patent but unfortunately in the real world, for whatever reasons, Phillips drivers do cam out very easily and begin to strip the screw (even without a power driver being used).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problems associated with them led directly to the development of Pozidriv, a linear descendent of the Phillips head designed to have the same benefit (auto-centring) but by providing more facets the tip of the driver engages much better with the screw, and as a result it will cam out far less easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you need to continue to use Phillips screws buy your driver tips in bulk and simply throw out the stripped ones as soon as they're too worn to work well. But ideally if possible switch to better screws: Pozidriv, Robertson or Torx.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2015-12-22T13:55:08.790" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T13:55:08.790" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3045" CreationDate="2015-12-20T23:10:39.323" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The above answers are correct in that there are better screw head types to use. Pozidriv seems really common here in the UK and they do seem to be significantly less prone to destroying both the bit and the screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also recommend though that the quality of the bit makes a difference. The best ones I've found for Pozidriv bits are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p81039?utm_source=googleshopping&amp;amp;utm_medium=feed&amp;amp;utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&amp;amp;mkwid=s3nak4Map_dc&amp;amp;pcrid=46330759823&amp;amp;pkw=&amp;amp;pmt=&amp;amp;gclid=CK_E-u_G68kCFda4GwodmKkGDw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wera gold&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They do also make a Phillips head version of these bits. I'm not sure if this particular make will be available in other countries but there should be some kind of equivalent. Sometimes if you pay twice as much for the bit, it'll last 5 times longer, so try a few different makes 'til you find one that holds up better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastEditorUserId="158" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T14:12:21.150" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T14:12:21.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3034" CreationDate="2015-12-20T23:26:09.987" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears from the picture provided by Matt that Gerstner simply used &quot;side-hung&quot; drawers. Here's an illustration showing the basics of the mechanics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cbbg5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cbbg5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Side-hung drawer cross section&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kennedyhardware.com/hoosier-cabinet_plans.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hoosier cabinet plans&lt;/a&gt;]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So presumably the smooth action is the result of good fit and tolerances, the use of well-seasoned wood and possibly a little waxing now and then to keep things sliding smoothly. Lubrication is not necessarily needed depending on the wood used for the slides/runners as some woods are self-lubricating, and many close-grained hardwoods will become burnished with use (as on the sole of beech planes) making them very smooth and slick over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T23:26:09.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3046" CreationDate="2015-12-21T00:46:14.233" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both the horizontal and vertical slats will be the same shape if your slots are halfway deep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a table saw you could use it to cut slots halfway deep in a larger board, e.g. imagine cutting horizontal slots in a 2x4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then once you have cut all the slots use the table saw to slice your slotted board into thin slats. Use a zero clearance insert or a sled. Watch out for kickback (or just aim your table saw in the direction of your pile of slats, heh).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will minimize the number of cuts you have to make and also lets you cut your slat widths to whatever you want to match your slot widths. If your table saw blade is too narrow use a dado set or make multiple passes per slot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can keep the slots evenly spaced with a jig of some sort with piece of something on it that fits in the slot and is the size of one of your grid cells away from the blade. Cut first slot, then place it over the tongue piece and cut the next, and so on to get quick evenly spaced slots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately, like &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/3049/128&quot;&gt;rob's answer says&lt;/a&gt;, if you already have slats you can clamp or double sided tape them together to cut the slots with a table saw in all of them at once, as with cutting the pre-sliced board above. The same slot spacing jig can be used if you do it this way, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With appropriate clamping the latter (cut all slats at once) could be done with a buzzsaw, you'd have to be creative if you wanted a spacing jig. The former (slot board then slice slats off) would be a bit trickier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way I would err on the side of cutting your slots slightly too deep rather than too shallow. Slightly too deep you can still create a nice flush grid and glue will still hold fine. Slightly too shallow and you won't be able to stick your horizontals and verticals together without recutting. &lt;strong&gt;Make test cuts first!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way if you do cut your own slats and you are leaving the grid bare, another thing to consider would be gluing a thin piece of some other kind of wood to the top and bottom of your board before slotting and slicing, if you want a nice contrasting trim on the edge of the slats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T16:10:23.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3046" CreationDate="2015-12-21T01:17:44.070" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I have made such crate creations, I have resorted to 1/8&quot; (3mm) thick material either masonite (press board) or baltic birch plywood.  First I cut the material into to strips then used my radial arm saw with a more or less standard thickness blade of 1/8&quot; which yields a nearly perfect fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course the answer to your question of how to best accomplish the task is dependent on what tools you have at your disposal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T01:17:44.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3055" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-21T01:54:54.897" Score="3" ViewCount="1605" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm really new to woodworking and have a question. I hike a lot and have this Oak walking stick I've been using. Just recently I got my hands onto tools so I could sand and fix up the walking stick. So it's really smooth and how I want it to be now, but I'm not sure how to finish it. I want to keep the natural colors but protect it and make sure it will last awhile but don't know what finished to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1568" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T13:41:39.543" Title="Staining and finishing an Oak walking stick" Tags="|finishing|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3046" CreationDate="2015-12-21T02:09:39.393" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For what it is worth I have also made something like this. I fitted an old flute case with partitions to hold my collectible playing cards. At this time I did not own a table saw so it was not considered among my options. I used a scroll saw with success but I found it time consuming in hindsight. Given the availability of tools at your disposal it is worth considering but it shouldn't be your first choice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/omBuH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/omBuH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Card Box&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using 1/8 inch MDF/hardboard/millboard/paperboard and a &lt;strong&gt;table saw&lt;/strong&gt; would be the most efficient way to get this done. Typical blades (measure to be sure) kerf is 1/8 of an inch to little to do other than measure and cut. A crosscut sled with stops would be ideal to get each cut the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would add that your design would still be viable to move no matter how perfect you make your cuts. Wood that thin and designed as pictured would be sure to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.madsie.com/manual/reference/Shear.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;shear easy&lt;/a&gt;. I would suggest that you consider making the outside stock of something thicker to make a frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T02:09:39.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3057" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3074" CreationDate="2015-12-21T02:35:32.533" Score="5" ViewCount="12729" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do wood projects from time to time around my house. I can see there are many Pneumatic based brad nailers available. I am thinking to avoid buying and adding a compressor to my Garage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer to buy an electrical brad nailer such as this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stanley TRE550 Electric Staple/Brad Nail Gun &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://amzn.com/B000BPSUTM&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://amzn.com/B000BPSUTM&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ryobi 18-Volt ONE+ AirStrike Brad Nailer Kit&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-18-Volt-ONE-AirStrike-Brad-Nailer-Kit-P854/205337057&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-18-Volt-ONE-AirStrike-Brad-Nailer-Kit-P854/205337057&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The electrical nailers have lower overall cost and seem to be easier to handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the disadvantages to having a non-compressor Brad Nailer? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1519" LastActivityDate="2018-10-29T19:26:30.807" Title="Pneumatic vs Electric Brad Nail Gun" Tags="|tool-selection|nailing|pneumatic-nailer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3058" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3159" CreationDate="2015-12-21T02:47:34.230" Score="2" ViewCount="8112" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am adding shelves to my basement and I need to mount 2x6 to basement concrete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I asked one of Home Depot folks and he suggested to use Tapcon as the most optimal option. He explained that a concrete nailer could be much more expensive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expect Tapcon screws are my lowest cost option. I wanted to post my question here and learn about my options. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other easier and cost effective options for mounting a 2x6 to concrete?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1519" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-02-05T21:12:17.753" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T15:34:00.790" Title="Easy options to mount a 2x6 to concrete" Tags="|technique|tool-selection|nailing|fasteners|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3058" CreationDate="2015-12-21T03:58:43.870" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are there any other easier and cost effective options for mounting a 2x6 to concrete?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tapcon screws will be your easiest and cheapest means to mount a 2x6 to a concrete floor, by far. They will require a hammer drill to drill the holes in the concrete, but you can rent one from the store if you don't have one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also use concrete expansion anchors too. However, these are quite a bit more expensive than Tapcons. They do have a lot more holding power, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have an expansive sleeve that's threaded with a bolt you tighten, which causes the sleeve to bear on the concrete hole in friction. These are used quite often in industrial applications where heavy loads are present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.tmhardware.com/images/D/Z226_2_(LR).jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tmhardware.com/Threshold-Accessory-Concrete-Expansion-Anchor-1-4.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:50.440" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T04:04:30.740" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3045" CreationDate="2015-12-21T06:01:20.523" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hammer drills are designed for working with masonry. Since you're driving the screws into lumber, you really don't need the hammer action for this job. Switch to a standard drill (or, if your hammer drill allows you to disengage the hammer action, do that) and lower the clutch setting to the lowest value that will get the screw head down to the wood surface. You can start by dropping it to the lowest setting, then raise it one step at a time if it doesn't drive the screw in far enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an excerpt from &lt;a href=&quot;http://diy.blogoverflow.com/2012/04/clutches-torque-and-you/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Clutches, torque and you&lt;/a&gt; on the HomeImprovement.SE blog - which pretty much describes your exact situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a power drill, the clutch setting is the amount of torque that the motor will pass through to the bit.  With the setting at 1, it will pass very little power, and at the maximum setting, it will pass the most.  Some have a numerical scale, 1-5 and then a symbol for a drill bit.  In this case, the drill bit completely disengages the clutch, it will always pass the maximum amount of power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M8Pnu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;torque adjustment on a power drill&quot; title=&quot;This is also the combination to my luggage.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you’re asking yourself, why would I ever want to use less power than I have available to me?  Didn’t I buy this awesome drill for all the power it has?  Well, the answer is “sometimes”.  A common time you would want to dial this down is when driving Phillips-head screws into wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let’s say you put your drill on maximum torque and drive that screw all the way in.  When the screw reaches the depth you want, a couple of things might happen – 1) You might over-drive the screw.  Remember, you’re on maximum torque and wood is generally soft.  So you might put that screw in a bit more than you wanted, especially if it’s soft wood.  2)  You might start stripping the head if it’s hard wood as the bit cams out of the head.  Phillips-head screws are made to cam out, but this was in the days before there were torque limiting tools.  The bit will rise up and out of the screw to avoid shearing the head off of the fastener.  However, nowadays you’re most likely to just strip the screw slots and make it impossible to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you put it on one of the lower settings, the clutch will not transmit any more power to the bit once the power needed to turn the bit is more than the setting.  More than likely, when driving our screw into wood, you want to set the clutch number at the number that will cause it to stop when the screw head reaches the surface.  You’ll probably want to start low and maybe turn up a notch or two if it stalls out before the job is done.  But when you have it right, you’ll have the best of both worlds – getting your fasteners all the way where you want them without having to worry about stripping the head because you didn’t let go of the trigger soon enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1289" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2018-11-16T17:30:16.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3045" CreationDate="2015-12-21T07:04:09.593" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try these &lt;a href=&quot;http://makitatools.com/en-us/Modules/Accessories/ImpactGOLD/FullLineUp.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Makita&lt;/a&gt;  bits they fit more precisely so less cam-outs. I use these and love them&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1570" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T07:04:09.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3045" CreationDate="2015-12-21T08:35:05.853" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Posidriv is a big improvement on Philips. No experience of the others. In the UK I think Posidriv is the most common for construction, with Torx etc for specialist applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use Wera Diamond bi-torsion bits - last longer than others I've tried. (Their blurb: &quot;Bi-Torsion screwdriver bit , BDC series diamond coated. Colour banded for identification. The coating helps prevent cam out damage to the head of screws. The material used also ensures longer life span.&quot;). There are probably others similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming your screws are good quality (In UK I use Goldscrews from Screwfix &amp;amp; they're good. Not sure if it's a brand or a generic term?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To some extent, you have to accept that bit-consumption is a fact of life.  You've got DeWalt ones there so they're not rubbish. &amp;amp; should last a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're not using your drill on &quot;hammer&quot;? Should be rotary only for screwing. Just checking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing is SPEED: keep your speed down - this is why there are dedicated drivers - their gearing is lower than a drill. If you have a variable speed drill, use a light touch or you'll destroy even the best bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also set the clutch (if your drill has one) a bit lower than you think you'll need.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or consider buying a driver/combi (latter has a low speed setting as well as variable speed).  Or you could consider the latest &amp;amp; greatest - an impact driver (eg &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O9syKDhdUos&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O9syKDhdUos&lt;/a&gt;). Others are available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1572" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T08:35:05.853" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3045" CreationDate="2015-12-21T09:45:53.837" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Others have alluded to this, but I'm making it obvious.    Are you using posidrive screws with a plain philips bit?  This is a combination that will cam out easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try holding the bit and a sample screw, fit them together like you're going to drive the screw.  There should be a good firm fitting between the two. Any slop or tolerance that you can feel is too much so try another screwdriver bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Answer&lt;/strong&gt; Try a posidrive bit with your existing posidrive screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1573" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T09:45:53.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3058" CreationDate="2015-12-21T13:19:39.930" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if this is cheaper in the long term but consider using adhesive, it's certainly the easiest option since you just apply, press the board into position and wait for the glue to cure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Construction adhesive and epoxy are both viable here, as long as the concrete surface is in good condition, not friable and dust-free. With epoxy in particular you do want to be quite sure of the position of your 2x6 since moving it would be somewhat difficult :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T13:19:39.930" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3055" CreationDate="2015-12-21T13:41:39.543" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stain is to colour wood, you only need to use that if you want to change the basic colour of the oak (make it darker, more brown, more reddish etc.) but you sound like you're happy enough with it as-is so you really only need to worry about the topcoat or final finish, the protective coating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your easiest and best option here may be polyurethane varnish (poly for short). It is a tough, durable coating that shrugs off moisture and is inherently scratch-resistant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest you get the original oil-based type of poly rather than a waterbased version as actually they are quite different products and oil-based poly is broadly speaking a superior finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also suggest that even if you don't want a glossy surface that you buy gloss poly. Any sheen from satin or semi-gloss all the way to quite matt can be achieved after application if desired, without having to buy a satin or matt version of poly. So this makes gloss poly a much more versatile buy, and the potential for irregular sheen when drying is much lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For application I would recommend you thin it somewhat to turn it into wiping varnish, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/finishing/the_basics_of_wiping_varnish2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Basics of Wiping Varnish&lt;/a&gt; by Bob Flexner for more detail (be sure to also read page 2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you're new to woodworking you won't be using your remaining poly in the tin very frequently, so after ensuring the lid is firmly secured it is beneficial to &lt;strong&gt;store the tin upside down&lt;/strong&gt;. This helps prevent a problem where you return to your varnish weeks or months later only to find a rubbery skin has formed over the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T13:41:39.543" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3045" CreationDate="2015-12-21T14:48:25.460" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try using Robertson square headed screws. They are less prone to this type of problem particularly with impact drivers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1576" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T14:48:25.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3067" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3069" CreationDate="2015-12-21T16:46:35.970" Score="3" ViewCount="136" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using an orbit sander the vibrations often cause scratches and gouges on the bottom side of the piece from the surface it is resting on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, even when I very carefully try to remove debris from the surface, sometimes something still gets under there and does a lot of damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I set a board on when machine  sanding it to avoid marring the other side?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T17:30:31.950" Title="Avoiding scratches on underside of piece when using orbit sander" Tags="|technique|sanding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3067" CreationDate="2015-12-21T16:58:21.147" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should clamp it still.  You've said you can't get the worksurface clean (though you should try anyway), so even putting down some sort of covering material won't be perfect.  How will depend on the workpiece.  You could make a frame round it from scrap which itself is clamped to the bench (you may want to hold the workpiece into the frame with a bar clamp or straps).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're making something like a table top you may be able to screw into the workpiece where the screw holes will be hidden by the legs. I'm guessing your workpiece is lighter than this though -- most table tops wouldn't move under a handheld sander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T16:58:21.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3067" CreationDate="2015-12-21T17:01:18.850" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clamps would be the way to go but I could see them being a hassle if you are trying to uniformly work the whole surface at once. If you get kitchen cabinet liners like these I would think they do the trick. They are also not a solid sheet so I would think less chance getting clogged with dust. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oQGSU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oQGSU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Traction cloth&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.organizeit.com/grip-it-shelf-and-drawer-liner-taupe.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;organizeit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that I am not trying to push the brand but the style of &quot;sheet&quot;. One with holes in it. Not sure how well they stand up to dust and cleaning but they should stop your wood from moving too much and lifts if off the table away from dust. Not good against some larger slivers but those could be wiped off by hand first if need be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-12-21T17:30:31.950" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T17:30:31.950" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3045" CreationDate="2015-12-21T17:05:32.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get hardened phillips head drivers, but then you risk damaging the screw rather than the bit when you cam out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real problem is that the drive type isn't well matched to the amount of force you are facing in your project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you really do need to screw things this tightly, you need to choose a screw drive method, such as posidrive, torx, or similar, which can handle the torque you are applying.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you can change your project parameters to require less force you can still use phillips.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you must have phillips and must maintain this high torque situation, you can buy hardened bits and hardened screws which will both stand up to the force you are applying.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you haven't given enough detail we can't advise which path to take, but know that you can resolve the situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="235" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T17:05:32.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3071" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-21T18:47:05.137" Score="8" ViewCount="5912" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to turning and recently decided to make some pepper mills.  Starting with squareish stock I roughed the pieces to round and then started drilling several concentric holes of different sizes using forstner bits on the lathe.  Somebody gave me the feedback that I should use the largest drill bit first and not to drill any pilot holes.  In other words if I need a 1.5&quot; through hole and a 2.5&quot; hole at 1&quot; depth then I should drill the 2.5&quot; hole first followed by the 1.5&quot; hole.  This flies in the face of everything I've been taught, but the explanation was that the forstner bits do better without large pilot hole (e.g. from another forstner bit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any event I was able to drill the holes into the work pieces, but as I did this I noticed that the drill bit appeared to be wobbling rather substantially (it looked like the work piece was &quot;pulling&quot; the bit such that it wasn't always inline with the axis of rotation.  I assume that this is because the drill bit didn't enter the piece perfectly inline with the axis of rotation though for the first ~1.5&quot; I couldn't tell and it looked good).  This was especially true when I used a drill bit extension to get the depth I needed (I started swapping in the extension only when I needed it rather than starting with it for deeper holes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After I drilled the holes I used a cone/chuck to hold the piece in place for sanding/finishing.  On several pieces I noticed that the through holes were not concentric with the outer surface of the work piece.  In other words when I'd pull the spindle off the lathe I'd notice that the through hole appeared to be at a slight angle relative to the outer surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the best way to drill a hole that is &quot;perfectly&quot; concentric with the outer surface of a work piece on a lathe?  Is it better to drill first and then rough/round?  Should I in fact be using a pilot hole?  Am I not securing the piece in the chuck properly prior to drilling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u1k7W.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u1k7W.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="566" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-12-21T18:57:03.193" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T01:53:18.007" Title="Best way to drill a concentric hole with a lathe" Tags="|technique|drilling|lathe|tolerance|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3044" CreationDate="2015-12-21T18:47:13.967" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;On all table saws I've seen rotate the wrench on the nut in the same direction that the blade spins to loosen the nut (regardless of which way the arbor is mounted).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't imagine that it would be threaded the other way, because of safety, but who knows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But like Matt mentions in a comment the manual will have the correct instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes you have to give the wrench a few light taps if the nut has tightened up from the blade spinning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2015-12-22T18:54:27.340" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T18:54:27.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3045" CreationDate="2015-12-21T18:57:23.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you sure you have a Phillips screw and not a Pozi? Using Phillips bits in a Pozi screw renders, in my experince, the result you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to think of: Apply pressure! With the first slip you have either dented the screw or the bit. Lean into the screw and keep perpendicular. I have never experienced I have applied too much pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second: Get the proper bit. Don't look at the screw head or carton and be satisfied it is a Ph2 but put a bit in and wiggle. It should not wiggle. At all. A good bit/screw fit is when they stick together - you should be able to lift one with the other. In my experience also screws with a good brand name doesn't always fit best what the carton says.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As much as I dislike Phillips I have a bunch of (cheap) spares to test with. Some times they have saved the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T18:57:23.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3057" CreationDate="2015-12-21T20:07:10.967" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having used both, I can definitively say this. An air brand nailer/pinner, is quick, powerful and often just the right tool. Sometimes it does suffer from being corded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My electric brad nailer is a bit slow between shots compared to an air variety, but is not hindered in angle or length to the compressor, but it is a fair bit heavier and bulkier (in most cases).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when quarters are not too tight at the face (not like a small box or wooden toy) and you have a lot of ground to cover, like installing floor or ceiling trim, the electric brad nailer wins hands down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I highly suggest put one of each in your hand, and ask yourself, for my projects, would any of these cons be a hindrance to my project, or the pro's offset them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T20:07:10.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3071" CreationDate="2015-12-21T20:17:07.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a very tricky thing without a VERY stout bit and tailstock. If I 'cheat' (not really cheating IMO) and use a drillbit, I generally finish with a bowl/hollowing tool, which I can get very uniform wall thickness, and a centered hole through to the other end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difficulty is in drilling, once the bit is off-center even as little as half a degree, the drilled hole will guide the bit further off course since the flutes do little to any cutting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thought coming to mind would say use a Forstner bit, which does it's cutting a bit differently, and a wire bit support to help guide and support the bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Might be worth a shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T20:17:07.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3071" CreationDate="2015-12-21T20:28:07.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need a gun drill for your pilot hole.&#xA;Drill bit extensions do not work well for making very straight holes, but if the pilot hole is straight enough it might work out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="453" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T20:28:07.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3071" CreationDate="2015-12-22T01:45:09.903" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume you are talking about using a wood turning lathe and you have mounted the work on the headstock and have the bit mounted in the tailstock. Getting everything lined up on a wood turning lathe will be difficult. They are not made for boring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend using a drill press instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are making through holes there is no reason to be using a Forstner bit. Those are used for making blind holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are various YouTube guides on how to do boring on a wood turning lathe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCrETz4RTyM&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCrETz4RTyM&lt;/a&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l24q7r_sg2A&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l24q7r_sg2A&lt;/a&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F3fueO0oP80&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F3fueO0oP80&lt;/a&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last of these is actually on boring a pepper mill, your exact problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I was making a lot of pepper mills, I would probably make a setup with a cutting mandrel. First a hole is drilled through the blank using a drill press. Then the mandrel is threaded through this hole and tightened with a collet to the chuck. A v-block fixture is used to support the work at specific height. Then the work is pushed along the mandrel to cut the holes. The mandrel has two cutters mounted on it, so that the entire inner diameter of the worker will be cut in one step. This kind of setup is somewhat advanced, but if you are making a lot of pepper mills would be desirable because it will be fast. The mandrel is very rigid. For example, if you watch the 3rd video above you can see how he has to keep backing out the drill. A mandrel cutter is really powerful and will just bore the whole thing in one move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case you would turn the outside of the pepper mill &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; doing the inside, so the outside should always be concentric with the inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastEditorUserId="306" LastEditDate="2015-12-22T01:53:18.007" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T01:53:18.007" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3058" CreationDate="2015-12-22T02:00:56.907" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want the wood to be mounted permanently you can use a ramset and wood fastening bolts. Pretty cheap and extremely fast. Its like shooting a gun, bam! bam! bam! You're done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you value your money much more than your time, I would use ordinary masonry anchors because that will be the cheapest option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T02:00:56.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="931" CreationDate="2015-12-22T02:41:04.203" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old Delta like that, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I do is raise one blade up a few millimeters and loosen the bolts a bit, then place a flat hardwood board over outfeed table and push down. Next I rotate the cutter head backwards so that the blade get pushed down by the board, and apply pressure until it's the right height. I check the result using the straightedge method. It usually takes a few attempts to get all 3 blades aligned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bolt torque is really important with this method, so try to loosen the bolts very precisely. The difference between &quot;too tight&quot; and &quot;too loose&quot; is really only a few degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1091" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T02:41:04.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3045" CreationDate="2015-12-22T07:43:39.717" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another thing that might help: although the brand of goldscrews that I use are described as being waxed/lubricated, for demanding jobs, or to max out cordless runtime, I use a smear of petroleum jelly or wax which eases insertion. I keep an old candle stub for this purpose. I feel that p. jelly is a better lubricant but a bit less convenient. It also gives an added degree of rust inhibition and makes removal a bit easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1572" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T07:43:39.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3044" CreationDate="2015-12-22T16:29:54.310" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The manual is the bible of your tablesaw, of course, but being a bit dyslexic, I need all the help I can get in situations like this, so I've developed a couple of habits I find useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nut on my tablesaw arbor is the only left-handed thread I have to deal with regularly. Since it is on the left side of the blade, I consciously only loosen it with my left hand (I'm right-handed, so most off my threading tasks are done with my dominant hand). Muscle memory helps me remember which way to turn it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, my saw requires brace to hold the blade against the force of the wrench. I know I'm loosening when the blade's teeth bite into the brace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T16:29:54.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3057" CreationDate="2015-12-22T16:50:14.563" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wasn't satisfied with the electric nailer I bought, which barely worked on soft pine. A better alternative for me was a gas nailer. Paslode, Hitachi and other gas nailers ignite a small charge of fuel to drive the nail and have vastly greater impact than an electric nailer, plus no hose to struggle with. However, gas nailers use a proprietary rechargeable battery to ignite the gas and a proprietary replaceable fuel source to supply the gas; so these must be available in your area for the tool to be of any use to you. If they are, if your budget can handle it, and you are looking at projects with more than a few hours of nailing to do, it might serve you well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conversely, if you use non-woodworking tools much, especially on cars, investing in a pneumatic system might be worthwhile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wear ear protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T16:50:14.563" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3083" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3089" CreationDate="2015-12-22T21:21:26.873" Score="11" ViewCount="23460" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is beyond frustrating. I tighten the heck out of my router bit in the colette and it slides mid cut. How do I prevent this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RljHD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, how come they don't make routers with the SDS+ system of locking bits in the chuck/colette so there is no way for them to slide? Like hammer drills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="328" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2015-12-22T23:22:03.347" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T18:24:37.500" Title="How to prevent router bit from sliding in collet?" Tags="|router|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3083" CreationDate="2015-12-22T21:35:12.170" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the collet is worn, replace it.  They can wear out through usage (although that is uncommon).  They are often damaged by mishandling and accidents to the router.  Check with the router manufacturer to get a replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the collet isn't worn, then you need to follow the manufacturer's instructions on tightening to properly hold the bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, if the bit isn't the correct size for the collet, you should switch to a bit that is the correct diameter. You could have significant safety issues by not doing so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="107" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T21:35:12.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3083" CreationDate="2015-12-22T21:52:59.763" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/q/3083/1250#comment6203_3084&quot;&gt;If this is a new router&lt;/a&gt;, perhaps it is possible that you have a defective machine with a damaged collet, or a piece of debris is jammed in the collet. If you have only observed this on a single bit it's also possible that your bit has a defective shank or another quality issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure to also obey the minimum insertion depth marking on your bit if it has one (or insert it all the way and then pull out maybe 1/8&quot; tops if it doesn't).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure you are using the correct size as well, e.g. don't use a 6mm bit in a 1/4&quot; collet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your collet &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be locking your bit in place, even without you having to crank as hard as you can when tightening it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T00:38:54.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3086" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3139" CreationDate="2015-12-23T17:23:59.833" Score="3" ViewCount="905" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3040/what-is-a-camber-exactly&quot;&gt;my last question&lt;/a&gt; of camber I was in the dark.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Through WW.SE I got good answers, now I know what it is, and why it's needed in extendable tables. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now my question: is it necessary to put camber on the slide of an extendable table to compensate for eventual sagging when the table is extended to its utmost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1563" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T20:47:34.543" Title="Follow up, camber extendable table with the rack and pinion" Tags="|furniture|tabletop|table-making|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3087" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-24T05:39:13.250" Score="3" ViewCount="279" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was at LeeValley at the clearance section because I remember the last time I was there they had some cheap totes. I was flipping through the bin and found a couple that I could use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I was looking I found a few handles that I could not place as totes for planes. Your standard plane totes are flat on the bottom for where they meet the body. These however are curved on both ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following picture shows two such handles side by side. One shows the top while the other shows the bottom. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gcCrX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gcCrX.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from my phone!&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It must be for a plane but I can't figure out which one? For that reason I am hesitenet to use &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/plane&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;plane&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;plane&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T09:20:23.037" Title="What tool would this handle be for?" Tags="|hand-tools|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3087" CreationDate="2015-12-24T09:20:23.037" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not that familiar with new-build tools but that looked naggingly familiar and I was relatively sure it was for a saw and not any sort of plane. This made it easy to track down:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lz17U.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lz17U.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Veritas dovetail saw attachment&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Veritas dovetail saw]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: it looks like the handle is common to their tenon saw as well even though it features a slightly different means of attachment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WlEOI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WlEOI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Veritas tenon saw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Veritas tenon saw]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T09:20:23.037" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3083" CreationDate="2015-12-24T18:24:37.500" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your router bit slips, there are several possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bit is improperly installed. When installing the bit, let it drop in as far as it will go, then lift it about 1/8&quot;. On most bits, there is a small angled collar where the head meets the shank. If you tighten the collet around this, the collet will inevitably lose its hold and the bit will slip out during operation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The collet or bit is damaged and the collet cannot tighten properly around the bit.  It's possible you've overtightened the collet in the past, but collets can also wear out with use over time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The collet and/or bit shank needs to be cleaned.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You are taking too heavy a cut (this can be compounded by cutting too fast or using a dull bit). Remember to take small bites with a router.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You are not tightening the collet as much as you think you are.  (Though, as previously noted, it's also possible to overtighten the collet and damage the collet and/or the bit.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T18:24:37.500" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3090" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-25T16:46:53.830" Score="2" ViewCount="222" Body="&lt;p&gt;Living in an isolated neck of the woods and need to square some planks for a table project. Don't have a bench, or a table saw. Have a rip saw a straight edge and limited power tools (Jig saw and a belt sander). Any tips for getting a straight edge other than draging it along the highway? Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1603" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-12-25T16:51:33.687" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T21:18:44.280" Title="Squaring wood with limited available tools" Tags="|furniture|hand-tools|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ClosedDate="2015-12-26T21:04:13.257" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3090" CreationDate="2015-12-26T18:40:41.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since your tool selection is so limited, your best chance to get a straight edge will be with your primary cutting tool, the rip saw. You do not mention if the saw is a hand saw or power saw, which really will not matter, since it will have everything to do with how YOU control the tool and what kind of inconsistencies you can live with when the cuts are done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rip saws are for cutting with (lengthwise) the grain of the wood although they can cut across the grain too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your biggest issue will be to cut the line square and mark it so you can follow the line accurately. A power tool usually will have the blade set so  the cut will be set at 90 degree in one direction, the depth of cut or thickness. The other direction along the face, or width, is up to you as I mentioned before. When using a hand tool, all squareness, in both directions is under your control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little sketch of what you want to build will help too. Knowing how each cut works to build the table can give insight on some shortcuts for using limited tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastEditorUserId="130" LastEditDate="2015-12-26T21:18:44.280" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T21:18:44.280" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3092" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-26T21:19:07.123" Score="6" ViewCount="914" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got an old Sandvik handsaw with the &quot;double dragon&quot; embossing, similar to with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nfshM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nfshM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of wooden saw handle with embossed celtic-like dragons; one writing around the rivets and mouthing the topmost rivet, the other knotted across the hand grip area, facing the hand and mouthing its own tail&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(Image swiped from eBay.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately these were very shallow stampings, and after all these years mine isn't this sharply delineated. I'm not sure whether that's because there was coloring that has faded, or if this individual just did a brilliant job of edge-lighting theirs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to do anything that would risk damaging these, but if there was some way to make the embossing on mine more visible, I'd be interested. I realize that I might be ruining the &quot;patina&quot; of use, but I'm more interested in appreciating the artistry of a working tool than in maintaining collecting value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone has good thoughts on how to accentuate the embossing, I'd welcome them... and they'd be good techniques to know for other kinds of restoration and decoration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Best thoughts I've had so far involve trying to use something like a tinted wax, which would hopefully get caught in the pattern but would be polished off the surrounding surface. But I'm not convinced that's a good idea.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T03:27:48.407" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T12:39:54.993" Title="Restore old embossed saw handle?" Tags="|hand-tools|hand-saw|tool-repair|decoration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3092" CreationDate="2015-12-27T12:39:54.993" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without knowing the exact condition of your handle it's difficult to say for sure how I'd approach this if it was mine, but it's likely I would remove the last traces of the original finish, clean the wood, do any necessary smoothing (file work, scraping and sanding) and then refinish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously with any sort of decoration in the wood this is a clear case of where you wouldn't want to even attempt to sand the finish off, and anyway it is usually preferable to use sanding as a last resort to remove finish (safer for the user and the wood). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So chemical stripping is unquestionably the way to go IMO. If you're using a commercial stripper rather than just one very strong solvent I think you should pick a product where the instructions say to clean off the wood afterwards with spirits, not water. If you wet the wood with water there's a risk you could lessen or even remove the embossing (same principle as removing minor dents by wetting the wood). And obviously the shallower the stampings are the less the effect needs to be to reduce their visibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Best thoughts I've had so far involve trying to use something like a tinted wax, which would hopefully get caught in the pattern but would be polished off the surrounding surface. But I'm not convinced that's a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like the perfect technique to me, as it's very controllable and reversible if desired. I suspect that once the old finish is removed and new finish is on the wood the decoration will anyway look a lot clearer and more sharply defined than it does now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one thing I would like to specify in relation to this in case it's not what you were planning, is to apply the tinted wax at the end, after a film finish (shellac or varnish) has been applied. That way the wax is sitting on top of the film and doesn't risk getting into the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case it's convenient &lt;strong&gt;you can use shoe polish for this&lt;/strong&gt;, rather than making your own tinted wax or having to buy a furniture-specific coloured wax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T12:39:54.993" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3094" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3109" CreationDate="2015-12-29T09:02:33.340" Score="3" ViewCount="413" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in India [tamilnadu]. Recently we are building our new home with wooden frames for the windows and doors, but the wood being used contains strange markings. When asking the carpenter about it, he reported that they were the rings of the tree. Typically I don't trust him because it had small holes within them. The wood being used is country wood [African] which the carpenter bought for making the frames and doors. I've attached the photos taken around most of the places where I find them as bug active zones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my satisfaction, I went to many places to verify whether it's worm active or bug affected. Something like that. I got a 50/50 answer, half I consulted said it was active but half denied it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please do suggest, is it good to continue with this wood or else what would be the solution to render it? I'm grateful to have an answer. I mentioned the place in order to verify the region where the wood is being used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Link:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8TRhtqczb3_bDFSMTVZTnJkclU&amp;amp;usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Google Drive folder with pictures&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New developments are found on the wood , saw dust are found only at zoomed view.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Link:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0zM69-pp3hZU1VuS2RGSmVqbnM/viewhttps://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0zM69-pp3hZU1VuS2RGSmVqbnM/view?usp=docslist_api&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;New development drive photo&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1610" LastEditorUserId="1610" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T07:20:03.487" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T07:20:03.487" Title="Is the wood worm active or not?" Tags="|safety|furniture|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3095" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-29T19:12:50.313" Score="9" ViewCount="2365" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of starting a beehive this spring and I want to make my own beehive boxes. I realize that there are kits you can buy and assemble, but I like woodworking and have most, if not all, of the tools necessary for the project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is what joint would be best on the corners of the brood boxes and supers, considering they'll be exposed to constant weather? Basically, all these boxes consist of are four sides and an inner lip to hold the frames the bees make honey on. I will either make it out of the solid common board from Home Depot or, more likely, a high grade 3/4&quot; (1&quot; on label) plywood. I plan to buy some for the owl boxes I want to make anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides just wanting to build the boxes myself and save a little money, I'm also not impressed with either the kits or some of the self built boxes I've seen on the internet. While they work and I'm sure they hold up for a number of seasons, I think that some are better than others. For instance, I see people who screw handles onto the boxes and others who use a circular saw to make a scalloped cut out of the side of the box with a lip to hold onto. The scalloped cut will last longer, because eventually water will work between the screwed on wooden handle and the side of the box and begin rotting it, where the scalloped cut won't get much rain in it and the little moisture that does get in it soon evaporates. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in that line of though, I don't know how to do the corners. I've seen ones where they just line them up square and screw and glue them. I've seen another guy who cuts a rabbet in the end of the side board just wide enough for the end of the long board to sit in it. While the first method seems stronger, the second method covers up the end grain. Lastly, I've seen people do dovetails. While this seems like the strongest method, I worry that each seem will potentially wick water into the joint and start to rot it. Granted that whatever method I choose, I will be either sealing it with polyurethane or paint, it will eventually wear off. I'd put plenty of wood glue in any joinery I choose to help keep the water out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just want to know what joint will stand up to the weather best. A hive box will be outside 24/7/365. I'm trying to think my way through and prevent as many problems as possible. I've even thought of trying the following joint and cutting it off flush on the side. Thanks for any help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0rIVB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0rIVB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="232" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2018-10-12T05:28:43.190" LastActivityDate="2018-10-12T05:28:43.190" Title="What's the best joint when exposing to weather (specifically for a beehive box)" Tags="|joinery|plywood|boxes|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3095" CreationDate="2015-12-29T22:36:19.117" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The sliding dovetail joint like the one in your picture will work fine, but in the corner a &lt;strong&gt;half&lt;/strong&gt; sliding dovetail (like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.craftsmanspace.com/sites/default/files/free-knowledge-articles/half_sliding_dovetail_joint.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;) would be more stable since the outer feather will be thicker overall and will have full-length fibers rather than mostly cut-through fibers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My attempt at drawing a (exaggerated) sliding half dovetail:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/moIrV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/moIrV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A simple, straight sliding joint may do fine, too, and may be easier for you to manufacture. It is indeed &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; easier to do (can use a plow plane or simply the table saw if you have no router, for example) and my guess is that it's what 90% of all people will indeed use for its simplicity.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The disadvantage over the half sliding dovetail is that the form by itself does not prevent the two walls of the box from falling apart, it relies solely on the glue's strength to do that (a sliding &lt;em&gt;dovetail&lt;/em&gt; will hold pretty much the same without any glue at all). However, given a nice amount of PU glue, that is probably not much of an issue, even in presence of 24/7/365 weather. The wood will likely rot away before the PU gives up, and if you use a weather-suitable highly resistant wood, something like e.g. robinia or bongossi, &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; coat it as you intend to do, this will last for many years. There's a robinia bench standing on the terrace at my grandparents' which was made decades before I was born.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simple, and will do the job, with glue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1MfC3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1MfC3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any of the &quot;sliding&quot; joints works in a way like a &lt;em&gt;baffle&lt;/em&gt; to water (and wind) that might try to creep through, which is a good thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will definitively want to stay away from any type of &quot;finger&quot; joint (straight or dovetail alike) as you would use on a drawer or on a decorative box. Although they look cool and offer plenty of glueing surface, they also offer plentiful cracks for water to crawl in, and have no &quot;baffle&quot; effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Update&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here's my take on it. This one is for bumblebees, not bees, but I guess it's the same thing.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As proof-of-concept to show that it really doesn't take a lot, I didn't use super special power tools, but made this one with hand tools, notably ye Goode Olde Veritas skew rabbet plane seen in the first picture (but I guess you could do with any other plane and a piece of wood as guide, too).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pieces fit together snugly, presumably air- and watertight, and indeed fit so firmly that once all rabbets are in place, it takes considerable force to pull the construct apart again, even without any glue. That's because each piece is held not by one rabbet, but by three (four, for the bottom). I'm almost tempted to not glue it at all, it would probably last 10 years like that, too...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Too dark to do the roof now, and need to get tar paper for that, too. Next week!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HP5Su.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HP5Su.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZjI9S.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZjI9S.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/drAEQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/drAEQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4GAB9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4GAB9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="135" LastEditorUserId="135" LastEditDate="2016-01-29T19:27:16.040" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T19:27:16.040" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3097" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3098" CreationDate="2015-12-30T01:04:20.677" Score="5" ViewCount="719" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a fully-assembled loft bed from softwood, in use for about of year, that has head and footboards of this design:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m56L4.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 4 rungs on the foot and 5 on the head; the legs are each 85&quot;. The headboard feels slightly unstable when pressure is placed on the bed. Even just pulling with my hand against the leg can produce this. I want to figure out a way to remove all movement and make it feel sturdy (I assume the existing movement is not really unsafe but can feel disconcerting).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The assembly instructions had me glue the rungs into the pre-cut notches and then screw them in using two #7 2-1/2&quot; (drywall) screws into each leg. I already drilled a pilot hole in between the two screws and sank another screw trying to stabilize the rungs, but it didn't seem to make much of a difference. I suspect the issue is that the top and bottom screws may have slightly stripped the wood and are too loose, plus the wood glue may not have been applied properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it currently exists, each attachment point looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Tk6Q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and under pressure moves slightly like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fOIly.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The screws are this deep, but have been sunk past surface level in the rungs so may not have much &quot;bite&quot; in them either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SBD7f.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering what the best strategy to fix this might be. I have a few ideas but don't know which is good, or if I'm missing something better:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove the top and bottom screws and drill 3/8&quot; holes instead, and place 3&quot; dowels with wood glue in the holes. This should provide grip against the entire length of the rung and the leg and I'd assume would shift less than metal screws. The middle screw would still provide strength against being pulled away from the leg.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;attach metal L-brackets from the inside of the rungs and legs and just screw them in using short wood screws.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;just try unscrewing each rung and re-applying wood glue on the contact point between the leg and rung, then re-screwing it using the existing screws.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1613" LastEditorUserId="1613" LastEditDate="2015-12-30T15:32:17.107" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T15:32:17.107" Title="How do I prevent the rungs of my loft bed from moving slightly in their join with the legs?" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3097" CreationDate="2015-12-30T10:34:16.133" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK to begin with, you shouldn't be getting any movement of course and because there is some it indicates you have no glue joint and that some or all of the screws holes in the uprights are either stripped, or if pilot holes were drilled originally, that they were a little over-size. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The assembly instructions had me glue the rungs into the pre-cut notches and then screw them in using two #7 2-1/2&quot; wood screws into each leg. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glue + screws would normally be more that sufficient for a secure and long-lasting joint on rungs such as this. There are two reasons I can immediately see for why they've begun to move. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, there appear to be two problems with the screws. The length suggested was not nearly long enough and additionally those screws look to be drywall screws. Passing reference to drywall screws in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2708/are-there-specific-types-of-screws-i-should-use-for-woodworking/2714#2714&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;. Re. the length, screw length should be three times the thickness of the piece being attached where possible. Where that's not possible the rule of thumb is &lt;em&gt;as long as you can get away with&lt;/em&gt;, i.e. just a little shy of poking out the opposite side of the piece you're screwing into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, joinery. The half-laps/halving joints that the rungs go into should be cut to a tight fit, the amount of play in the one joint you photographed closely is very far outside acceptably tight and ideally (note: &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; essential) the joint should be shimmed or packed out so that the rung can't move within the notch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initially one simple way of doing this would have been by positioning the rung at the bottom of the joint (hard up against the lower edge of the notch) and then just inserting a shim at the top. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, if that joint is typical then the others should be addressed as well if you're doing this one. But as I say this isn't essential and with a solid glue fixing and screws holding properly the rungs should be perfectly secure enough for service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;just try unscrewing each rung and re-applying wood glue on the contact point between the leg and rung, then re-screwing it using the existing screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is partly the ideal fix. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes you should re-glue, but the mating surfaces should be scrupulously cleaned of old glue first before re-glueing, by scraping and then by sanding. This is because wood glue is not actually strong, &lt;em&gt;well-glued joints&lt;/em&gt; are, and in practice a strong joint is formed only when the layer of glue is very thin between the two pieces of wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't re-use the existing screws as they're not holding in the wood, so unless you pack out the holes they'll continue to do very little to hold the rungs in place. If these are drywall screws they should be replaced with wood screws anyway, and when doing so you can move up to a larger gauge so that they hold in the wood firmly. &lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; you may need to drill larger clearance holes in the rungs to accommodate the larger screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you're ready to re-attach the rungs you want everything lined up and ready to go before you apply fresh glue, as you want no delay between applying glue and bringing pieces of wood together. Apply fresh glue generously to one face, position each rung and drive the new wood screws home (this provides the necessary 'clamping' force to ensure a good glue joint). As the screws snug up firmly will get some glue squeezing out of each joint, this is normal, but be prepared for it and wipe it away with clean, damp cloths. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leave the joints for about six to eight hours for the glue to dry before subjecting them to load, or overnight if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T10:34:16.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3099" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3100" CreationDate="2015-12-30T15:02:16.743" Score="14" ViewCount="4374" Body="&lt;p&gt;We obtained this very nice JET table saw a while back but the surface had gotten some water sitting on it and started to get a rust spot. Unfortunately,  someone got a bit overzealous and thought it would be a good idea to use a chemical rust remover. This did remove the rust mostly,  but it also seems to have damaged the surface. Perhaps there was a coating it removed.  Now it is discolored,  streaky, spotty, and seems to rust easier. &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uLc6s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How can I safely clean and restore the surface?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How can I maintain it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: &#xA;This is it after a very quick use of Naval Jelly and SC Johnson Paste Wax (which I was only able to buff in, not able to let is sit and melt on due to temperature) as @popdan suggested:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DnfuS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cleaned&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastEditorUserId="1499" LastEditDate="2016-01-25T18:40:47.620" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T18:40:47.620" Title="How to clean and maintain my table saw top" Tags="|table-saw|tool-maintenance|rust|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3099" CreationDate="2015-12-30T15:57:40.977" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Light cleaning can be done with #0000 steel wool.  Naval Jelly can be used if more aggressive cleaning is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SC Johnson paste wax can be used to maintain it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1112" LastEditorUserId="1112" LastEditDate="2015-12-30T23:02:12.477" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T23:02:12.477" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3099" CreationDate="2015-12-30T21:16:06.907" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How can I safely clean and restore the surface?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the cleaner that was used has chemically altered the surface of the top, there's not much you can do aside from remove the discolored areas.  Unfortunately, you set yourself up for an uneven top if you to that, so I'd advise against it.  If it's just a cosmetic blemish, I'd leave it alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, if it's just some surface gunk or spot rust, scrub it with some steel wool or a Scotch-Brite pad and a light oil (mineral oil, 3-in-one, etc.).  That should get rid of most of the gunk.  If that doesn't do it, you might try some other solvent, like lacquer thinner or mineral spirits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How can I maintain it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most table saw manufacturers recommend periodic coating with a rust preventative on the table top.  For most casual woodworkers, this amounts to putting a coat of paste wax on every couple weeks or so.  The paste wax has the added benefit that it helps the wood slide easier during cuts.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodnews/2010july/rust.html&quot;&gt;This website&lt;/a&gt; recommends Renaissance Wax, which will actually polish your table top over time and make it even smoother.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, there are some other rust preventatives you can buy.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://boeshield.com/why-boeshield/&quot;&gt;Boeshield T-9&lt;/a&gt; is probably one of the more popular ones now, and I can attest that it works.  There are various other aftermarket solutions like this if you look at a Rockler or Woodcraft store, so feel free to check those out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, rust is like cancer.  Stop its spread quick, otherwise it'll keep getting worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2015-12-30T21:39:40.690" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T21:39:40.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3099" CreationDate="2015-12-31T10:20:00.483" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, someone got a bit overzealous and thought it would be a good idea to use a chemical rust remover. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just for the record, that wasn't really over-zealous. It's perfectly OK to use a chemical rust remover as and when needed to treat rust on any woodworking tool, as long as you follow this with appropriate post-cleaning treatment. That's all that was missing in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;it also seems to have damaged the surface. Perhaps there was a coating it removed. Now it is discolored, streaky, spotty, and seems to rust easier. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes I think it's likely it partly removed the factory-applied protective coating (which could have been as simple as a spray of mineral oil) leaving parts of the surface exposed to moisture in the air. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How can I safely clean and restore the surface?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure I want to promote them given how much the retail price has climbed in recent years* but I've read many extremely favourable reports on the Sandflex blocks for this kind of thing. Where steel wool or Scotch-Brite isn't quite up to the task the medium and/or fine versions of Sandflex will do everything you could ask for apparently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uqkGy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uqkGy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sandflex block at work&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Not sure how the shipping will work out but the prices &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/sa99996/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; on Klingspor's own Woodworking Shop are very good currently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How can I maintain it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two main ways to prevent rusting on exposed steel and iron are oil and wax. Virtually all commercial rust preventatives are based on one or both of these, including the much-vaunted Boeshield T-9.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm much more of a fan of wax myself as you can apply it and leave more of it in place as a protective coating while the tool remains functional. Imagine using your table saw if the bed was oily.... ugh. But with a buffed waxed surface it's great, actually better than if untreated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would strongly recommend you don't buy Renaissance Wax for this, it's ridiculously overpriced for what it is and doesn't work any better than much cheaper alternatives, including the Johnson's paste wax recommended first by popdan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also easily make your own paste wax if that's the sort of thing that appeals to you, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1476/table-saw-top-treatment/1484#1484&quot;&gt;previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T10:20:00.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3103" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3105" CreationDate="2016-01-01T01:01:51.270" Score="5" ViewCount="2719" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some online shops selling CNC router bits only specify what metals the bit can be used on. Is it safe to assume that if the bit can be used to mill metals that it's safe to use all types of non-treated wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, I'd like to mill douglas fir, but also interested in walnut. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1518" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2016-06-21T12:42:06.597" LastActivityDate="2018-10-30T06:32:34.507" Title="Can I use a CNC router bit specified for metal on wood?" Tags="|router-bit|cnc|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2647" CreationDate="2016-01-01T04:00:16.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My answer is YES old wood has sap..that's what keeps me going. JK!&#xA;The reason we dry kiln things is for heat.. not to dry sap particularly but to crystalize it. I understand that pine sap for instance, once 'set' to 150 degrees, will then crystallize on cool down, and will not liquify again, until reaching 151 degrees... This is why commercial dry kilns use high heat; to save on sandpaper as much as to dry wood. Wood will dry in 33 degree weather all day long.. but heat speeds the process and sets the sap. In my experience biulding four dry kilns, a data logging heat treater for fire wood, Doug fir doesn't SET well at all. It is more like it 'attenuates' the sap.  We run boards through an IR oven in our flooring line at 200 degrees for about twenty seconds and sap bubbles up through the surface.. it's just what it does. &#xA;The wood can be very old and still do this..I cut 300 year old trees burned in fires on my ranch and believe me, they still have sap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1620" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2016-01-02T03:10:01.723" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T03:10:01.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3103" CreationDate="2016-01-01T12:40:57.993" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't imagine a bit capable of milling metal having any difficulty whatsoever dealing with fir or walnut. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I don't know you can assume that a metal-cutting bit will leave a particularly good surface on wood because of the different edge geometry (similar to twist drills, where metal-specific ones are subtly different to general-purpose or wood-specific ones). So it's probably a good idea to expect that a very light skimming cut will be needed to finish off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T12:40:57.993" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3106" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3107" CreationDate="2016-01-01T17:34:10.863" Score="3" ViewCount="440" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using a VCarve and a ShopBot CNC to attempt an excluded area from being milled. Regarding the image below, I can only figure out how to remove the outer area in red, as the green area is in the cutpath of the red area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I create pocket cutpath with excludes an area within it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nbj9J.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nbj9J.png&quot; alt=&quot;3D model of excluded area&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Indirectly related&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If someone has enough points to add keywords, &lt;code&gt;CNC&lt;/code&gt;, and &lt;code&gt;VCarve&lt;/code&gt; would be useful terms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1518" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2016-01-02T00:33:59.267" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T00:33:59.267" Title="How do I exclude a cutpath area in VCarve?" Tags="|milling|cnc|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3106" CreationDate="2016-01-01T21:57:00.290" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Figured it out after watching a Youtube video. In short, two vector paths need to be selected for the pocket cut path (a starting and ending vector).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VrQT4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VrQT4.png&quot; alt=&quot;2D view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p1HJx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p1HJx.png&quot; alt=&quot;3D view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1518" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T21:57:00.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3094" CreationDate="2016-01-02T14:30:48.613" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;After looking at your pictures, most of them appear to be normal from knots in the tree, not worm damage.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also to note.  Even if there were worms, most lumber is heat treated to remove moisture and this process should kill any worms living in the wood at the time.  I suspect most wood shipped internationally will have something like this done, just to prevent new bugs from infesting new shores.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As one of the comments pointed out, the biggest thing to look for is if there are new holes or fresh sawdust showing continued activity.  But ultimately, most worms eat the wood, turn into an adult and leave.  Once gone, unlikely to lay new eggs on 'dead' wood like that.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Termites and other similar bugs are a completely different problem, but any carpenter that can't identify that problem, won't be in business long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T14:30:48.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3110" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-04T00:29:41.867" Score="5" ViewCount="386" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7mtGj.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7mtGj.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tRFnY0Xcogo&amp;amp;t=90&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Youtube&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tRFnY0Xcogo&amp;amp;t=90&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Go to about 1:30 in the video&lt;/a&gt; to see the saw guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am helping my son build a pinewood derby car, and something like this would be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1631" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T18:30:21.647" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T18:30:21.647" Title="What kind of a hand saw guide is being used in this video?" Tags="|hand-tools|hand-saw|tool-identification|miter-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3110" CreationDate="2016-01-04T02:13:04.617" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not know the specific make of that guide but it is known as a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=hand+mitre+saw&amp;amp;tbm=isch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hand mitre saw&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, from &lt;a href=&quot;http://filter--blog.blogspot.com/2012/08/the-hand-mitre-box-that-never-wears.html?m=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0WBSl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0WBSl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The one in that image appears to resemble a vintage Stanley mitre box, maybe a Stanley 358.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other styles of mitre guides and boxes, too, the most familiar probably being the little plastic box with angled slots in the sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T15:49:53.283" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T15:49:53.283" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3113" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3116" CreationDate="2016-01-04T17:13:46.983" Score="8" ViewCount="2781" Body="&lt;p&gt;A contractor told me that I need to clean wood dust from my table saw and miter saw after each use. He explained that leaving wood dust can impact the tools’ longevity and I should use a compressed air blower to clean the dust from the saw tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How accurate is that statement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got my answer through this post. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It makes sense to clean the dust from power tools after each use &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wood dust can cause rust on the metal parts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, still it is not clear to me that how essential is the use of a compressor air blower. Not everyone has a compressor and it might not be feasible to carry a compressor along with power tools to job sites. I personally think a shopvac should be efficient enough.Shopvac is an easier and more practical option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1519" LastEditorUserId="1519" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T03:07:33.550" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T03:07:33.550" Title="Do I need to clean my miter and table saw after each use?" Tags="|table-saw|tool-maintenance|miter-saw|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="11" ClosedDate="2016-01-06T03:56:54.683" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3113" CreationDate="2016-01-04T17:35:21.800" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this falls under the &quot;it's true, but doesn't matter&quot; category.  Motors will operate at their peak efficiency when clean, but it takes &lt;strong&gt;a lot&lt;/strong&gt; of dust build up before the performance or longevity would be impacted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I clean off my tools prior to storing them, just because I like to keep things neat.  My Dad used the same miter saw on construction sites for years and the only cleaning it got was what fell out of it when he put it in the truck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T17:35:21.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3113" CreationDate="2016-01-04T18:21:47.730" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;What &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/3114/128&quot;&gt;LeeG's answer&lt;/a&gt; covers is pretty spot on when it comes to build up of dust on the motor and the hidden areas. There is really no inherent harm in trying to clean the tools after every use (sort of somehow pushing dust into a crevice I suppose) except for maybe being an exercise in futility. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not to condone it but my 12 inch mitre saw has hardened sawdust build up behind the frame below where the motor is. There are no moving parts near there and it is not loose. I can turn it upside down (not an easy feat) and the dust will stay there. Been there for years and is not impacting the tools use at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to make a point of distinction. You are not talking about &lt;em&gt;where&lt;/em&gt; the dust is being accumulated. I would frequently clean the table and surface of saw tools to prevent binding of the pieces being worked on. Mitre gauge slots of table saws are prone to this.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If there is dust where wood will be passing I would clear that, while the tool is off, at every &lt;em&gt;pass&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T01:24:38.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3113" CreationDate="2016-01-04T18:59:51.543" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the Miter saw: Ditto on &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/3114&quot;&gt;LeeG&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/3115/1250&quot;&gt;Matt's&lt;/a&gt; answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the Tablesaw, I clean the table top off every time to avoid anything that might rust the cast iron top, then I give a quick wipe down with a lubricant (very quick spray and wipe, nothing detailed).  On the inside, my DC keeps the cabinet reasonably dust free, but at least once a year, I vacuum that out with my shopvac to keep things moving freely and them spray parts with a dry lube.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1639" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T01:23:56.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3113" CreationDate="2016-01-04T19:28:06.137" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Leaving sawdust in contact with metal will promote rust. The reason for this is that the sawdust can absorb moisture, essentially wetting the metal. Also, many woods have acidic pH, so you are essentially exposing your tools to acid by leaving sawdust on them, which will promote rust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T19:28:06.137" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3099" CreationDate="2016-01-04T21:28:52.147" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 50+ year old Craftsman cast iron table saw that has seen many years of hard use. Probably 3 times in it's life it needed some serious cleaning and surfacing. I started with a large flat block and a whole sheet of Sandpaper for metal, like emery cloth progressing from medium to very fine, to be sure the surface stayed flat. When the entire surface looked uniformly smooth and clean, I heated the entire top evenly until it was hot to the touch. Using fine steel wool, melted bees wax, and a heat gun to keep the wax melted, I rubbed it into the top. An old timer told me the wax will penetrate the surface a little. It repelled rust for many years after that and even the wood was always easier to slide through. Set aside the better part of a day because it takes time, and make sure to heat the entire top evenly to prevent warping. Remember to do the sides of the rip fence too. It looks like your top may have some little pits from rust too. They should not affect anything as they seem small, and the wax may fill them in too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1383" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T21:28:52.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3113" CreationDate="2016-01-05T07:31:05.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a former machinist who now works with wood I agree heartily with &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3113/do-i-need-to-clean-my-miter-and-table-saw-after-each-use#comment6293_3113&quot;&gt;Dave's comment above&lt;/a&gt; regarding the precision of cuts made when sawdust &amp;amp; debris is left on the miter saw table - I clean the table after every cut. Of course the &quot;sawdust absorbs moisture &amp;amp; is acidic&quot; point is a vital observation as well.  What I disagree with is the use of an air compressor or other blower as the cleaning agent.  An air compressor is more likely to force the debris deeply into tool crevices versus cleaning them out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1645" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T01:22:49.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3113" CreationDate="2016-01-05T14:01:51.630" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may be opinion rather than answer, but: it's generall y better to get in the habit of cleaning and putting things away as you go. A space that isn't kept neat tends to accumulate more and more layers of &quot;I'll do it later, and I can't do that until I do this and...&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, excess sawdust can eventually become a safety hazard as well as an accuracy hazard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not very good about this myself, but I'm trying to set a rule that I don't leave the shop until at least one more thing is clean and where it belongs than when I came in. Maybe by 2020 I'll have the shop looking like I want it to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-01-05T17:59:23.603" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T17:59:23.603" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3103" CreationDate="2016-01-06T12:02:52.607" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Graphus, however also be careful of the max. RPM of the tools, since metal-cutting tools are often designed to run more slowly than woodworking tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T12:02:52.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3103" CreationDate="2016-01-06T19:22:56.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Milling cutters can be used to cut wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Milling cutters and router bits have different geometry that recognizes much higher &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surface_feet_per_minute&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SFM&lt;/a&gt; used for wood and plastic. A milling cutter can, of course, be run at high SFM in wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to be cautious of is chip removal. If you are edge milling it is not an issue, but if you milling a pocket then you could get sawdust buildup in the pocket that could jam or overheat the cutter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastEditorUserId="400" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T23:58:43.093" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T23:58:43.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2836" CreationDate="2016-01-07T01:27:22.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The correct choice is an inset face frame hinge. An example hinge can be seen &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/blum-soft-close-110-blumotion-inset-clip-top-hinges-for-face-frame-cabinets&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, and the following is an explanation of the different terms:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Inset&lt;/strong&gt; means the door is inside of the cabinet instead of on the front of the cabinet &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Face frame&lt;/strong&gt; designates that the hinge will be attached to the face frame, as opposed to Euro style hinges which are attached to the side of the cabinet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;degrees&lt;/strong&gt; listed describe how far the door will swing open&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Soft close&lt;/strong&gt; means there's a cushion or spring inside of the hinge that will prevent the door from slamming&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doors and hinges are one of the more complicated aspects of woodworking and building. Referencing an installation guide before making the final selection is always a good choice. These are often located on the product page but can also be found in the support section of the manufacturers website. For example, the installation guide for the Blum hinge linked above is listed under &quot;Technical Downloads&quot; but can also be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blum.com/us/en/02/90/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1655" LastEditorUserId="1655" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T01:33:06.450" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T01:33:06.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3095" CreationDate="2016-01-07T01:49:04.647" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on the tools you have at hand. The more important consideration is proper sealing, as any joint will degrade much faster with direct exposure. Paint is best, but a deck sealer would also work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A basic sturdy joint would be a reinforced butt joint, which is nothing more than a block of wood glued and screwed to each piece of plywood on the inside of the corner. The upside is that there's not a joint to cut. The downside is the block of wood intrudes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the block would get in the way, the next option I would consider is a pocket screw joint. They go together quickly, are designed for use in plywood, and hold up very well. This is how most cabinets are made. Don't worry about the expansion and contraction of the metal loosening the joint, weather actually causes more damage to wood joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you would like an all wood solution, the two keys are gluing surface area and protection from moisture. A finger (sometimes called box) joint would be an excellent choice, and is the one I would use personally. While a proper dovetail joint, splined dovetail, and other drawer joints would work alright, plywood is not well suited to traditional joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1655" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T01:49:04.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3125" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-07T03:06:55.933" Score="3" ViewCount="3036" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 4&quot; thick, roughly 6' long maple slab that I am making into a headboard. I am about halfway through the sanding process and am thinking about the finish. I don't want stain, because I want the natural look of the wood, and I don't want anything shiny like polyurethane. I am considering tung oil, but I know it will have to be re-applied yearly. I wouldn't mind a flat or matte finish. I'm looking for suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1656" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-01-08T08:49:44.827" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T08:49:44.827" Title="What finishes are suitable for use on a slab headboard?" Tags="|finishing|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3126" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3130" CreationDate="2016-01-07T09:15:42.140" Score="6" ViewCount="6807" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand why larger router bits should be operated at lower speeds and there are a multitude of router bit speed charts out there to help you choose the correct speed for any given bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It all revolves around (haha, see what I did there?) the rim speed of the bit and, from what I've been able to work out, it looks like most recommended rotational speeds equate to a rim speed of something between 100 km/h (60 mph) and 180 km/h (110 mph).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then every article you read about this will state that the size of the bit is only one of the factors to determine the speed at which you want to run the router. Another important factor is the hardness of the wood. But, while every article gives you a chart to illustrate how bit size affects the speed, I have yet to see something illustrating how hardness of the wood affects the speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, I get it, harder wood = slower speed, but how much? If the bit size speed chart tells me that the max speed for a bit is 20,000 RPM for instance, I'm presuming that is if you're cutting a soft pine. But if you're cutting African Blackwood or Ipe, you should use a slower speed but how much slower?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any rules of thumb or charts for this perhaps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1657" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T14:20:46.180" Title="Router bit speed as a function of wood hardness" Tags="|router|router-bit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3127" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-07T12:28:36.580" Score="7" ViewCount="1719" Body="&lt;p&gt;My husband has a lathe and sander set up in our basement where our furnace is. We have a very small, old house and that's the only place it fits. There is no ventilation whatsoever down there so he has a shop vac to suck out all the dust. And he has sealed all the ducts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the basement area where he works still has a layer of dust over everything. He does not clean this up as he works down there every day for 2-3 hours. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the last week, he has started using more exotic wood like Padauk and Bubinga. Four days ago I started to feel sick (after just having finished a cold). Yesterday I realized I'm not sick...I'm having allergies very similar to what I usually get in spring - sore throat from nose dripping, scratchy/itchy throat, repeated sneezing, headache, my chest feels heavy and it's hard to breathe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that the wood he is using is causing this?  It's freezing cold where I live so it can't be seasonal allergies. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1658" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T14:01:21.700" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T14:53:36.260" Title="Can wood dust cause irritation to other people in the house?" Tags="|safety|wood|toxicity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3127" CreationDate="2016-01-07T12:55:28.243" Score="8" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Yes it could&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Please read on though&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is important to know that correlation does not equal causation. That is to say that what your husband is doing might be a coincidence as to your symptoms. However both of those woods listed are known irritants that could cause allergy like assumptions. Wood dust and dust in general are known irritants that can trigger allergy symptoms. Entries in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/hardwoods/bubinga/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wood-Database&lt;/a&gt;, for both of those woods you mention, show the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Allergies/Toxicity&lt;/strong&gt;: Although severe reactions are quite uncommon, Burma Padauk has been reported as a sensitizer. Usually most common reactions simply include eye, skin, and respiratory irritation. See the articles Wood Allergies and Toxicity and Wood Dust Safety for more information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All fine dust is more of an issue over time with constant exposure as it can cause long term respiratory issues. It becomes very small particles when can become lodged in one's lungs. Please understand that I am not suggesting in the least that you have lung issues as a result of your current exposure. But I am cautioning him working in the house, in the way you describe, for the sake of the &lt;em&gt;long term health&lt;/em&gt; of everyone in the house, including his own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If dust &lt;em&gt;gets everywhere&lt;/em&gt; then there &lt;strong&gt;should be a dust collection system in place&lt;/strong&gt; to collect / contain this. This is especially the case for woods that cause irritation. You might just be reacting to saw dust and not necessarily saw dust from the exotic woods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your furnace should be filtering some of this dust, in an effort to stop distribution throughout the house, but that would be up to the filters you are using. There are more expensive filters that could deal with the microns of dust that are created from woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To expect on the furnace filter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If lots of work is being done indoors I would be sure that your filter is graded for something in the area of 2-10 microns. If there is a MERV rating then higher than 9 should be good. This is based of the statistic from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-dust-safety/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wood-Database&lt;/a&gt; which I linked to in other answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forget about the large chips and visible sawdust: perhaps the most damaging element is the invisible fine dust (sometimes called “coarse inhalable particles” ranging from &lt;strong&gt;2-10 microns&lt;/strong&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Very related reading&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/768/what-advantages-does-a-dust-collector-have-over-a-shop-vac/770#770&quot;&gt;What advantages does a dust collector have over a shop vac?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/65/how-should-i-dispose-of-sawdust-safely&quot;&gt;How should I dispose of sawdust safely?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1028/what-common-woods-produce-the-safest-most-harmful-dust&quot;&gt;What common woods produce the safest/most harmful dust?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T14:53:36.260" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2680" CreationDate="2016-01-07T13:55:05.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interesting problem.  I think that you can just as effectively measure the distance of the arbor (center of blade) in order to make the adjustments you desire.  I have not tested this solution, but intuitively it seems to make sense (I have no such problem as, my Shopsmith saw has a finely-adjustable stop device on the table height adjusting column.) If your insert has some room alongside it, or if it is zero-clearance but you can remove it easily, I would suggest the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Grab your arbor wrench (hopefully, one of those nice flat and&#xA;parallel-to-the-blade-face jobs - the flatness is important here.) &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get another straight, rigid, thin slat, something like a 6&quot;&quot; aluminum&#xA;ruler, a rare-earth magnet, a marking knife, and a length of adhesive ruler&#xA;tape long enough to measure the deepest non-through-cut you'll want&#xA;to make (with satisfactory resolution - 16ths, 32nds, whatever.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust your depth of cut to exactly 0&quot; somehow - your choice of&#xA;method, and take your time, you'll only need to do this once.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove your insert if necessary so that you can reach down to the&lt;br&gt;&#xA;arbor nut with the wrench. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reach down with the wrench and engage the arbor nut as though you&#xA;were going to loosen or tighten it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lay the ruler down on the table so the end touches or almost touches&#xA;the face of the arbor wrench (their faces will be at right&#xA;angles).  Plunk the magnet down on top of the ruler to hold it in&#xA;place. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rotate the wrench (and blade since they're engaged) so that the&#xA;wrench is vertical.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scratch a reference mark into the arbor wrench along the top edge&#xA;of the ruler.  This is your zero reference.  Remove the wrench&#xA;from the arbor nut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply the ruler tape to the wrench with zero positioned at the&#xA;zero reference and the numbers increasing in    the direction of the&#xA;wrench opening (center of blade).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You now have, in the form of the taped arbor wrench, the ruler, and if needed, the magnet, a tool for measuring the  amount the blade cuts above the table.  To set a cut depth:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove your insert if necessary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grab your taped wrench and ruler, set the ruler on the table next to&#xA;the opening.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply the wrench to the arbor nut and rotate to vertical with one&#xA;hand, cozy the ruler end up to the taped side of the wrench with the other.  Apply the magnet if needed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let go of the ruler, reach over (while keeping the wrench vertical&#xA;with first hand), and adjust your blade height (and thus the wrench&#xA;height - it's connected to the arbor) until the edge of the ruler is&#xA;alongside your desired depth of cut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove wrench and ruler, replace the insert, and make your cut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best I could come up with, I think it'll work for a lot of people, and is a dirt-cheap solution.  Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1457" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T13:55:05.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3126" CreationDate="2016-01-07T14:20:46.180" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Yes, I get it, harder wood = slower speed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure this is really true.  &lt;strong&gt;Router bits cut more efficiently at their top speeds.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you might want to consider is using a slower &lt;em&gt;feed rate&lt;/em&gt; for harder woods.  For example, I know I can whip pine right through my router table with no issues, but maple I have to feed more slowly and more controlled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any rules of thumb or charts for this perhaps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not aware of any rule of thumb or any tables/charts giving you this data.  It's more of a feel thing that you develop over time - or at least, that's how I did it.  Basically, you should be able to use your hands to feel the vibrations and ears to hear how the bit is cutting to see if you're feeding too fast.  Also, if you're getting too rough of a cut, that's a good visual/tactile indicator that you might be feeding too fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T14:20:46.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3125" CreationDate="2016-01-07T15:09:32.283" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the type of thing that should be asked &quot;what finish &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; I use....&quot; rather than should. There are essentially no areas of finishing where there's a &lt;em&gt;should use&lt;/em&gt;, almost every case comes down to what the builder chooses to use that fulfils the requirements &lt;em&gt;as they see them&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same on-paper requirements are guaranteed to lead to different woodworkers going with different finishes, as the many varied finishes used on coffee table projects attest. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a headboard doesn't need the kind of durable coating that something like a coffee table might need you could finish this with just about anything, including nothing at all believe it or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am considering tung oil, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An oil finish could work really well for something like this. First time I ever used an oil to finish a piece of furniture I didn't have in mind any particular requirement for durability, but now a few years down the line I'm constantly impressed with how it has held up to wear-and-tear. This is because it was applied to a hardwood and maple is of a similar hardness so you could expect similar performance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I wouldn't recommend you go with tung oil unless you already have some. The much-sung benefits of tung are nearly entirely about its outdoor performance. Boiled linseed oil, BLO for short, has a long and glowing history in Western woodworking, is more than adequate for indoor use and is commonly cheaper and more easily available. It's also reputed to be easier to apply to a good finish (source: Bob Flexner).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A additional benefit of boiled linseed oil is you know for sure what you're getting — just linseed oil, treated to make it dry faster. On the other hand many products that have the words tung oil in the name are a bit of a purchasing minefield as they may only have some tung oil inside, and a few contain no tung at all!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I know it will have to be re-applied yearly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's one tradition, but it's actually not a must-do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The piece I referred to above has not had another coat applied to it since its initial six or seven a few years ago. And as far as I can tell it looks exactly the same, including on high-wear edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I don't want anything shiny like polyurethane. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An oil finish can turn out quite glossy, particularly on dense hardwoods, so oiling is not a direct route to a matt finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I recommend BLO above it does have a negative in this case in that it is usually darker in colour than tung oil, and will impart more of that characteristic yellow tone to lighter woods like maple which you may not care for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would usually recommend in its place is varnish. Polyurethane, as with any varnish, doesn't have to be shiny. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And by thinning it to turn it into wiping varnish it can be applied in much the same way as oils are — wipe on, wipe off any excess. Even using gloss varnish when applied this way you won't get a particularly gloss finish unless you build up many coats, e.g. more than four. If you do end up with a surface a bit shinier than you'd like you can just go over it gently with fine Scotch-Brite or steel wool to 'knock back' the shine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T15:09:32.283" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3095" CreationDate="2016-01-07T15:23:08.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In counter to all the other answers saying &quot;lots of sealant&quot;, I would go for &quot;no sealant at all&quot;.  I would also avoid glue.  My concern is that for a bee hive you have a lot of insects you want to keep  healthy in very close proximity to your glue/sealant.  That also means no plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a durable wood and a decent roof and the beehive should outlast you.  If you are good enough at woodworking, a dovetail rebate should hold together with no other fasteners.  I would have to use screws (at which point I probably wouldn't bother with anything other than butt joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1646" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T15:23:08.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3133" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-07T23:31:29.970" Score="1" ViewCount="347" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to build some 24&quot; by 10&quot; oak shelves. They will be mounted to the wall using custom metal brackets. I was originally thinking of using a vise and a hammer, but want them to look good and am doing a few so want it to go easy. Could I use something like this to put a 90 degree bent in them? or am I missing something? Material is 1/8&quot; by 2&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.metalbendingtool.com/pro-2-bender/pro-2-bender&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.metalbendingtool.com/pro-2-bender/pro-2-bender&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1662" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T15:56:16.817" Title="Custom Wood Shelf Brackets" Tags="|hand-tools|tools|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-01-10T15:36:37.590" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3134" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3135" CreationDate="2016-01-08T05:44:59.913" Score="3" ViewCount="2611" Body="&lt;p&gt;The table is 9' 6&quot; L × 36&quot; W × 29&quot; tall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hSs2B.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hSs2B.png&quot; alt=&quot;Here&amp;#39;s a quick SketchUp model of it seen in ¾ view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The frame and the legs will be 1 ½&quot; T. Apron on the side is 2&quot; T, 1&quot; tapering to 1&quot; at the end. The legs are 4&quot; W at the top, tapering to 2&quot; at the bottom. Wood is white oak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on building sort of torsion box on the frame (+ some cauls or whatever they're called to keep the top from warping).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OZdAv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OZdAv.png&quot; alt=&quot;Here&amp;#39;s a SketchUp model showing the bottom&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The legs-to-apron joints will be bridal, all others will be Festool Domino tenons (probably 10mm × 50mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given a weight of 48lbs/ft3 for white oak, it seems the top will weigh in at about 170 lbs (!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So, the question is:&lt;/strong&gt; Do you think the frame is strong/solid enough to carry this weight? And do you think in general this will be a sturdy and wobble-free table?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1663" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-03-11T07:12:49.970" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T07:12:49.970" Title="Building a large dining table and wondering if my design is strong/structurally sound enough" Tags="|stability|table-making|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3134" CreationDate="2016-01-08T08:34:28.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;wondering if my design is strong/structurally sound enough&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A torsion box is obviously very stiff and stable, and this would make for a very very strong table just as it does with workbenches constructed this way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it's complete overkill for the kinds of loads a normal table would require, think about the much sparer structure of a standard 7' (2.13m) dining table which are often capable of taking the full weight of an adult. And anyway torsion-box construction is best suited to tops made from plywood or another manmade board where they can be rigidly joined throughout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even on a table of this kind all you should need is three or four 'stringers', one between each pair of legs and one or two in the middle somewhere. And it is directly from these that you can attach the tabletop, no need for extra battens. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best options for attaching the tabletop to the apron IMO are with hardwood buttons or expansion plates, as shown in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2720/will-these-table-legs-support-this-table/2731#2731&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;. Even on a table of this size you shouldn't need more than eight (two per side). But you could add a third along the long sides if you feel the need, it won't harm the structure in any way if you use more than are strictly necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest you alter the design in another key way as well, to make the structure underneath distinctly narrower than the top, so that it has the common overhang that tabletops have. If you make any sort of apron or under-frame flush with the sides of the tabletop itself at certain times of the year when conditions are exactly right it will be dead flush as when it was made. But it could be slightly narrower during the wet season when the top expands, and most importantly slightly wider during the dry season when the top shrinks, which will look very strange!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;do you think in general this will be a ...wobble-free table&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's entirely down to how flat the floor is and how accurately the legs are cut to length :-) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any four-legged table will be stable and free from wobble if those conditions are met.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T08:34:28.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3133" CreationDate="2016-01-08T09:13:15.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Could I use something like this to put a 90 degree bent in them? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes you definitely could, but at nearly $300 I'd say it's a bit steep just for a few brackets. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go with your first thought. It's very doable to bend steel by clamping it firmly in a strong enough vice and hammering it to produce a bend, which you then continue with further hammering. You should ideally use a metalworking vice, but people have used their woodworking vices for this sort of thing. In a woodworking vice you'll very likely damage the jaws, some people are precious about that sort of thing and some aren't. If you'd prefer not to damage the existing jaws, replace them with temporary plywood ones or use temporary plywood or hard hardwood slips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some common tips I've read for producing bends in this way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a larger hammer rather than a smaller one. So if you have access to a 24oz ball-peen hammer use that instead of a 16oz claw hammer, but the claw hammer will do if it's all you have.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start hammering close to the bend, not at the end (this is one reason it's very easy to do some damage to the jaws of a metalworking vice as you're hammering right at the bend point).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After the bend is established many people will just resort to using arm strength or their bodyweight to pull the metal down into its final bent shape. You'll probably want to wear gloves if doing this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If using a metalworking vice, you may want to protect the bracket metal from being marked by its steel jaws with fibre or aluminium inserts. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Google &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.ca/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&amp;amp;ion=1&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;es_th=1&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#q=bending%20flat%20bar%20stock%20in%20a%20vice&amp;amp;es_th=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bending flat bar stock in a vice&lt;/a&gt;&quot; if you'd like to see more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-01-08T12:35:23.877" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T12:35:23.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3133" CreationDate="2016-01-08T15:56:16.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Could I use something like this to put a 90 degree bent in them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Graphus said, yes you can, but a good vice can work just as nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used a vice on 1/8&quot; x 1/2&quot; stock to make bands for trunks.  That is surprisingly easy to bend where you want.  2&quot; wide will take a little more work, but should be plenty doable.  I also agree that a larger hammer works better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, a word of caution on the brackets.  A plain 'L' bracket without a strut for support will likely cause you a lot of pain.  The first problem is the shelf will likely be bouncy.  The next is if you are putting a lot of weight on the shelf it will slowly bend the 'L' down until it drops stuff off onto the floor.  It might take a little while, maybe even years, but it will happen, that's gravity for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, a simple fix is to make a brace from top to side.  You could do extra metal work to bend a triangle, or take a piece of oak, and cut it to fit, then just screw the wood to the bracket, you don't even need to go from end to end, just a couple inches from the corner on each side should do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below are brackets commonly used for shelving brackets, they have 'triangles' for strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gxENo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gxENo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DKBUd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DKBUd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T15:56:16.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3134" CreationDate="2016-01-08T18:15:10.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main thing that I can see (apart from the bracing being a bit overkill) is that you probably want some small braces at the top of the legs where they meet the apron / top, in order to stop sideways wobble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bridle (not bridal) joint for the legs is probably a good choice of joint, but if you want this table to last for years and years then some side bracing of the legs wouldn't go amiss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T18:15:10.247" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3086" CreationDate="2016-01-08T20:47:34.543" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Table slides are those pieces of wood that join the two halves of a table and support the leaves.  The bigger the opening the more pieces necessary for each slide (Normally two slides per table, each made of two to several pieces of wood that mate in dovetail slots and rails.)  The slide set shown here employs rack and pinion mechanisms to assure that the slides move equal distances when the table is pulled apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tFd5O.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tFd5O.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boisouvreswaterville.com/table-slides&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any table with leaves is going to sag.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem to be solved is how to minimize the sag or how to make the table top level while the slides are sagging.  One way to achieve this would be slip well placed shims between the bottom of leaves and the sliders such that the entire table top becomes level.  Obviously, this is impractical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enter camber. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this solution the slots in the sliders are slightly angled so that as the two halves of the table are pulled apart the center rises, negating the sag and creating a sort of stepped camber. I think that I have heard of the slots and rails being slight curved, also, but that sound exceedingly tricky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The need for camber depends on your tolerance for sagging.  If I were making such a table, cambered slides would be near the top of my list for desired features.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are going to make a table with leaves you are likely to be well-advised to look at the commercially available slides (Google &quot;wood table slides&quot;.) They are available with and without camber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above discussion applies to four legged tables. It is interesting to note that camber is also applied to pedestal tables where the natural sag occurs at the ends and camber is introduced in the slides so that as the table halves are separated the center goes down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T20:47:34.543" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3140" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3148" CreationDate="2016-01-09T02:52:17.970" Score="12" ViewCount="1557" Body="&lt;p&gt;A drill press seems such an essential tool -- even outside of fine woodworking I have found need for it a great many times -- but as I dive into woodworking I see even more of a need for it. The precision, straightness of cut, and depth limiter will obviously give better results and make some near-impossible hand drill tasks easy. But how do I choose one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spindle travel seems very important. 2&quot; sounds tiny and 5&quot; sounds big. How much do I actually need, or what depths should I expect to want to reach. If I only drill through 3/4&quot; wood, any size is fine. (Right?) But a 2x4 could makes more travel useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Table size and adjustability seems very important. Big, tiltable, easy clamp spots, etc. would make it most easy to use with any workpiece. Right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bench vs floor standing also seems important, however I'm not sure I see many scenarios where floor standing space would actually matter for the workpiece... though maybe I'm short-sighted?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else am I missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="983" LastEditorUserId="983" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T02:59:24.217" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T00:53:34.037" Title="How do I choose a drill press?" Tags="|tools|power-tools|drilling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3141" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-09T10:16:18.037" Score="7" ViewCount="1305" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to cut square holes in some double sided melamine particleboard 3/4 inch thick. Can I use a hollow chisel mortise (drill press style) to make these holes? I could just experiment with this myself but I will be using someone else's equipment to do this so I don't want to damage it. Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="410" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T02:37:05.817" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T19:22:42.183" Title="What is the recommended way to mortise melamine particleboard?" Tags="|joinery|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3141" CreationDate="2016-01-09T15:08:08.877" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm sure this can be done, but I think you're right to ask as particleboard/chipboard is famously hard on cutting edges, quite astonishingly so sometimes. So there is every chance the square chisels will need sharpening immediately after doing this, and it's even possible that a sharpening will be felt necessary once or more during the process if you're forming a fair number of mortises. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T15:08:08.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3095" CreationDate="2016-01-09T18:06:01.660" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every old beehive box I have ever seen was made with pine and built with box joints, and no glue. It was held together with, appropriately so, box nails, one in each &quot;finger&quot; in both directions. With the cover over it and proper setting it will last for many years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cGHhD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cGHhD.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T18:06:01.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3145" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3146" CreationDate="2016-01-09T18:50:25.890" Score="7" ViewCount="176" Body="&lt;p&gt;For oil finishes, such as tung or linseed, it's common to see advice where you apply multiple coats early on, then fewer and fewer coats progressively.  For example, a common adage is: &quot;Once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, and once a year for life.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand why you would want to do multiple coats early on (as a finish) and a few coats over the long run (for maintenance).  But what is the purpose of the intermediate phases, i.e., in the example above the once a week/once a month phases?  If it's simply to continue the finish, couldn't you just compact those into the finishing process (e.g., roughly once a day for three weeks), then swap to the maintenance phase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1671" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T21:28:20.300" Title="Why is there a progressive reduction in oil for finish/maintenance? Is it necessary?" Tags="|finishing|tung-oil|boiled-linseed-oil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3145" CreationDate="2016-01-09T21:28:20.300" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If it's simply to continue the finish, couldn't you just compact those into the finishing process (e.g., roughly once a day for three weeks), then swap to the maintenance phase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible this may work for some*, but not in my experience. The main practical issue is that as you build up the oil in the surface wood fibres with the initial coats the wood becomes successively less and less absorbent, and by a certain stage (which will be variable with wood type and minor differences in technique) this can lead to multiple later coats applied closer together more easily building up to a gummy surface. And any amount of soft surface film is to be strenuously avoided when doing an oil finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*No two workshops are exactly the same and two people working in Phoenix and Tampa respectively would not have anything close to the same experience during even the first week!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I wouldn't suggest you go as far as 20 coats anyway. Something that is not clearly stated in almost any guide is that past a certain point you gain nothing with further applications of oil, which is something either implied or directly stated by many old-timers giving advice on finishing ...the type of person most likely to trot out the old adage you quoted :-) You do definitely gain something by applying more than the 2-4 coats that are not uncommon today, but past about six or eight I defy anyone to see any difference whatsoever (on most woods) if they are applying the oil in the correct manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's why: after the initial buildup within the wood oil finishing is nearly entirely about &lt;em&gt;burnishing of the surface&lt;/em&gt;, not &quot;building up the finish&quot; in the sense that most people would understand it (particularly if they're more familiar with varnish or an oil/vanish product like &quot;Danish oil&quot;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T21:28:20.300" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3141" CreationDate="2016-01-10T06:52:49.830" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the particleboard itself, which is indeed quite hard on cutting edges (due to the glues binding the wood particles), the melamine coating is also very hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would consider drilling as much of the waste as possible before squaring the holes, or at the very least drill through the melamine coating. Alternatively, depending how many holes you need, their dimensions and the accuracy required, I would consider doing it strictly by drilling the waste and squaring and cleaning with a regular hand chisel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T06:52:49.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3140" CreationDate="2016-01-10T07:55:48.480" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Table size matters, but it's common to add your own table -- many drill presses come set up with a table that's better for metalworking than woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ease of adjusting the table matters. You want a table that can be reliably brought back to level... or you can leave it level and use a jig when drilling on an angle, which some find easier.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want a table whose height is easily adjusted, and that can be swung off to the side for end-drilling large pieces. Most drillpresses will have those features.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want a head that lets you change speeds reasonably easily.  It should have a built-in depth stop, ideally with both quick and fine adjust. You &lt;em&gt;USUALLY&lt;/em&gt; won't need more than 4 inches travel, if that; if you're going deeper, moving the table vertically can supplement quill travel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that I'm saying &quot;want&quot;. You can save a significant amount of money by getting what you need instead. The best deal is often a 50-year-old machine in reasonable condition  which may be s bit more nuisance to set up and will be heavy but will do the job just fine, especially if you spend some time tuning it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T07:55:48.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3140" CreationDate="2016-01-10T20:49:46.990" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was hoping someone would cover this question from getting a drill press perspective. &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/3148/128&quot;&gt;Keshlam has done a good job of just that&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to be sure that you actually &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; this tool. Like most power tools a drill press will help you perform the same task repeatedly fast and efficiently with good results where tolerance in concerned. I would like to call on a &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3140/how-do-i-choose-a-drill-press#comment6325_3140&quot;&gt;comment by Graphus&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whether you need one is partly about the work you're doing of course&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drill press, in its basic form, will help you make 90 degree (or other angle if you table rotates) in your work pieces. You would need to ask yourself how often you need to do that. In that same vein how often you need to be that accurate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mentioned that you wanted to make some birdhouses. Those are the projects I started out with. Woodworking is one of the trades were tolerance does not have to be 0%. This of course depends on the project but there are many where not everything has to be perfectly flush during assembly. Adjusts can be made after. Nor does a screw have to be &lt;em&gt;perfectly&lt;/em&gt; inserted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Consider a Jig&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you plan to be using a drill press regularly, or get one a good one at cost, you can perform most of the functionality you would get with some jigs. A really good question about this topic is: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/89/how-do-i-ensure-my-drill-is-perfectly-vertical-before-cutting-a-hole-in-my-desk/109#109&quot;&gt;How do I ensure my drill is perfectly vertical before cutting a hole in my desk?&lt;/a&gt;. Two of the answers there cover a homemade jig and a commercial one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So again, depending on how often you need that functionally it might be better to start with a jig. Once you get an idea how often you need it then maybe you will know if a drill press is right for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T15:35:14.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3141" CreationDate="2016-01-10T20:58:27.727" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;How clean do the edges of these holes need to be? Chipboard/Particle board can have a nice face surface but this inside could be a mess so I don't expect your standards would be too high here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would cut a groove into the melamine to help mitiagte chipping. Then use a drill, likely hand held, to make a hole large enough for me to get a jigsaw in there to remove as much waste. If appearances are not a factor I would be cleaning the inside edges with the jigsaw as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted cleaner edges I would pare with a chisel but like &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/3142/128&quot;&gt;Graphus says&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[P]articleboard/chipboard is famously hard on cutting edges, quite astonishingly so sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And like I mentioned above I don't think you will get that clean surface inside the mortise but that might not be the case given the quality of the wood product. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T20:58:27.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2263" CreationDate="2016-01-11T11:22:43.310" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest and most efficient way is to use&#xA;Lemon juice + water&#xA;And remove the leftover by your steel brush or sandpaper&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now it would be much easier to use the steel brush or sandpaper&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1680" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T11:22:43.310" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3154" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3156" CreationDate="2016-01-11T17:30:41.700" Score="6" ViewCount="567" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qBnFe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qBnFe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At rest position, the mechanism which prevents the clamp from opening no longer provides enough friction, causing the clamp to move freely in this direction, and making it impossible to use one handed in a vertical position. It became more or less unreliable. However, once tightened, it looks like it can still hold the pressure.  Can I do something to make it work better ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1682" LastEditorUserId="1682" LastEditDate="2016-01-11T17:52:31.830" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T15:08:55.907" Title="One-handed bar clamp is moving freely in both directions, can it be fixed?" Tags="|hand-tools|clamps|tool-repair|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3154" CreationDate="2016-01-12T01:10:38.117" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find these clamps to be reasonably unreliable - in my experience they all eventually fail as you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the causes is that the bar becomes too smooth for the clamp to get sufficient friction. In this case you can try filing/roughing up the bar at the front and back to give it something better to grip on to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="282" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T01:10:38.117" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3154" CreationDate="2016-01-12T11:18:46.663" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes in this case it could be fixed easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I disassembled the clamp and found one piece a steel with an obvious mechanical failure: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xX4YH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xX4YH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This piece of steel is the one that prevents the clamp from opening, so it makes sense that over time it will bend in this direction.  I bent it back to its original shape, and put everything back together;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dKV3v.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dKV3v.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing else was needed in my case. It's now working properly. I just checked another clamp from the same manufacturer, which is just a bit shorter, and it had already started to suffer from the same problem. Maybe they do it on purpose (planned obsolescence.. ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ugc0y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ugc0y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1682" LastEditorUserId="1682" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T15:08:55.907" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T15:08:55.907" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2986" CreationDate="2016-01-12T17:46:39.620" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe your countersink has 5 flutes.  If that's the case, then what's happening is the bit is wandering in a circular pattern, the drill is not being held steady enough, or has significant runout/wobble in the chuck or bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This process, when controlled and performed intentionally, can be used to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rjckF0-VeGI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;drill square holes&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMSbdhQM9GU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;any regular polygon&lt;/a&gt; by using a bit with one flute less than the number of sides of the polygon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you have discovered, this process doesn't always require control and intention.  In your case it's happening because the bit isn't exactly centered on the existing hole in the wood, and is catching on one flute before the other flutes engage the wood.  This results in moving the drill and drill bit the opposite direction, until another flute engages, and it proceeds in that fashion, creating the hexagon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few things may help, but ultimately it comes down to steadying the work and drill relative to each other.  A drill press and vise or clamps should be sufficient, but without those tools you might have some success by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a sharper countersink, which should &lt;em&gt;cut&lt;/em&gt; rather than &lt;em&gt;catch&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a countersink with a pilot bit, which will make sure the countersink doesn't wobble once it engages the workpiece.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a higher speed, which again should cut rather than catch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clamp the work piece rather than hand holding.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go very slowly, particularly when first engaging the work piece.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't rely on the bit to self center - make sure you are drilling in the exact center of the hole before the bit engages the wood.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A combination of these should resolve your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately, embrace the uniqueness of this technique, and make it an intentional part of the work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="235" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T17:46:39.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3058" CreationDate="2016-01-12T18:05:53.630" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a hammer drill, then use tapcon.  If you don't, then you're going to have to buy or rent tools anyway, and the decision isn't clear.  Cost is largely a wash if you don't already have the appropriate tools for one or the other. Time is different, though.  Drilling holes and then screwing in screws is much more time consuming than simply shooting a nail.  The biggest advantage for screws, though, is that they can generally be removed if needed later.  Nails can be too, but they may chip or spall the concrete, or you may have to cut them off and grind them down flush with the concrete later if you decide to remove the item they are attaching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With screws you can use a regular drill and a concrete bit, but the bit wears down quickly and the drill proceeds slowly.  If you have very few fasteners, though, this can be the most cost effective option.  If you have many fasteners you'll want to rent a hammer drill, which works with the concrete drill bit to drill significantly more quickly and easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chances are good that a cheap drill will have difficulty driving the concrete screw in, though.  Again, a strong drill or a hammer drill improves the experience here, but isn't necessary.  If you use the hex-head screws you can use a socket set to drive them in, and again is a cheaper option to buying a new drill if you aren't doing very many of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With nails the work goes very quickly.  The powder actuated nailer isn't terribly expensive to buy or rent (cheaper than the hammer drill) but the consumables (powder and nails) are more expensive than the screws per fastener.  However, you can't beat the speed you can attach something with.  If you're doing many fasteners and don't have a hammer drill, being able to nail in the boards quickly allows you to move forward in your project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nails can cause problems, particularly in substandard concrete.  If the concrete is soft, or has evidence of spalling or a lot of cracking, you should probably shy away from nails.  You also have to make some decisions in the blind - without knowing how hard the concrete is you have to try a few different size powder charges to find the one that drives the nail to the correct depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, again, if you believe there's a good chance someone will want to undo what you've done, screws can be slightly more forgiving in terms of removing them from the concrete and using that area in other ways.  Nails are hardly a deal breaker, but they can complicate removal later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="235" LastEditorUserId="235" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T12:32:05.683" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T12:32:05.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3160" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3161" CreationDate="2016-01-12T18:45:06.750" Score="6" ViewCount="4004" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am designing a home theater that will have a small &quot;stage&quot; which will need to have a long (~8ft long, ~6in wide, thickness as required) piece of wood that is bowed slightly. I want to know what types of wood (e.g. MDF, certain plywoods, ect...) would be suitable for this task as I need to be able to bend the wood to shape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This image is how i'm hoping it will look. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eeCHp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eeCHp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: the &quot;stage&quot; platform will be carpeted over so finishing the wood is not necessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1172" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T21:19:03.873" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T03:52:49.473" Title="Type of wood for bending into an arch shape?" Tags="|technique|wood-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3160" CreationDate="2016-01-12T19:26:24.027" Score="13" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am designing a home theater that will have a small &amp;quot;stage&amp;quot; which will need to have a long (~8ft) piece of wood that is bowed slightly. I want to know what types of wood (e.g. MDF, certain plywoods, ect...) would be suitable for this task as I need to be able to bend the wood to shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say it should be around 6&amp;quot; wide at most.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think MDF or a good-quality plywood would be perfect for this application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get the curve, you would cut a series of parallel kerfs in one side of the board, similar to the image below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DMJTy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DMJTy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;kerfs&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Kerfing_Plywood_for_Bending.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spacing of the kerfs isn't an exact science, more of a trial and error thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, you only cut part way through the board.  Ideally, if you use plywood, the ply you have left uncut has grain running perpendicular to your kerfs so that you're not bending across the grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm honestly not sure about thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say your fascia board can be 3/4&amp;quot; thick and be fine.  You would want to put another supporting board behind the fascia and under the stage pretty closely anyway to help carry the stage load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, if you want to get really complicated, you could use a solid hardwood and steam bend it the old fashioned way.  Hickory, ash, and oak take bending well.  See this &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/topics/21389&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;related forum post&lt;/a&gt; for other woods.  Air-dried lumber tends to bend better than kiln-dried, FYI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For as light of a bend as it seems you're looking for, you might just be able to use several thinner boards (say 1/4&amp;quot; thick) and laminate them into the curve by gluing them into shape.  It's fairly easy to make a jig to do this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EH6Lp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EH6Lp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;laminates&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.johnlomascustomfurniture.com/blog/item/making-a-curved-table-apron&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T19:28:52.997" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3162" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3163" CreationDate="2016-01-13T14:27:43.753" Score="8" ViewCount="881" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using a rabbeting bit on a 1&quot; x 4&quot; red oak board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I cut at 1/4&quot; depth and 1/2&quot; width, it works fine. When I increase the depth of cut to 3/8&quot;, the wood splinters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this common? Is it typical to do two runs and if so are there any rules of thumb with how deep a cut you can make with a rabbeting bit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="255" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T15:20:51.290" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T20:04:07.257" Title="Wood splinters when using a rabbeting bit" Tags="|router|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3162" CreationDate="2016-01-13T14:48:56.970" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is generally advisable to take multiple passes with a router when removing large amounts of material. Adjusting your feed rate might also help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also a good practice to make some test cuts on some scrap material in order to ensure your depth of cut and feed rate won't cause any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing this also gives you an opportunity to &quot;sneak up&quot; on the exact dimensions of the cut you are trying to make. Similarly, often times, round-over and other shaping bits might burn the wood and making a final small pass allows you to easily remove this leaving a nicely finished edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastEditorUserId="11" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T17:53:19.347" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T17:53:19.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3162" CreationDate="2016-01-13T15:20:15.410" Score="12" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When I cut at 1/4&quot; depth and 1/2&quot; width, it works fine. When I increase it to 3/8&quot; depth the wood splinters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the Answer given by @Steven already, it may be a good idea to score the fibers that outline the sides of the cut prior to performing routing operations.  Oak is notorious for splintering due to its open grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can easily be done with a knife and a straight-edge:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rZYiF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rZYiF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;knife&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/doors/modify/length/cut_shorter.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or with a table saw, running the piece &lt;em&gt;backwards&lt;/em&gt; over the blade:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hxQOi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hxQOi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;table saw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodgears.ca/shop-tricks/tearout.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the table saw method should only be attempted if you have the piece securely fastened on something like a miter sled.  See the referenced web page for further details, or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JuYx3ANp_Jg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T15:20:15.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3165" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3188" CreationDate="2016-01-13T18:29:13.763" Score="2" ViewCount="23492" Body="&lt;p&gt;I stumbled across Minwax's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/clear-protective-finishes/interior/minwax-one-coat-polyurethane&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;One Coat Polyurethane&lt;/a&gt; on their website. It purports to built a finish equal to 3 coats of regular poly in a single application. I'm curious if anybody has used it and has any input/thoughts/feedback on how it works and whether it's worth trying out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastEditorUserId="563" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T19:08:52.657" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T18:27:47.750" Title="Minwax “One Coat Polyurethane” — does it work?" Tags="|finishing|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2016-01-17T21:24:09.087" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3166" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-13T18:29:29.460" Score="7" ViewCount="124" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to build a case to hold my old Lionel train set.  I have the original cardboard and styrofoam box, which is beat up at this point and I'd like to give the train to my son in a keepsake box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The total weight of the set is than 10 pounds (maybe less than 5).  There are half a dozen cars, a dozen sections of track and various accessories.  I would like to build a flat case, perhaps one that opens like a book.  It will have compartments covered with a layer of thin foam and felt.  The dimensions are ~2'x2' (or double if I put everything on one level).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have little experience with woodworking and would be doing everything by hand.  I have only done little projects in the past and always using pine.  I am deciding what wood makes most sense for this project, considering I want it to be sturdy, but lightweight.  Pine is easy for me to work with, but might be too soft.  What wood would be light enough to be very portable, but strong enough to stand the test of time?  Also avoiding the most expensive wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks very much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1666" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T19:01:41.297" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T17:34:13.537" Title="Wood to use for case holding Lionel train set" Tags="|wood-selection|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3166" CreationDate="2016-01-13T18:57:07.773" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Pine is easy for me to work with, but might be too soft. What wood would be light enough to be very portable, but strong enough to stand the test of time? Also avoiding the most expensive wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though pine is soft, it is still a good choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://lostartpress.com/products/the-anarchists-tool-chest&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Anarchist's Tool Chest&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, Chris Schwarz recommends eastern white pine for the carcase construction of the chest.  The reason is that it's lightweight and easy to work.  Also, a tool chest, being essentially a shop tool itself, is expected to get dinged up and show its age.  With all of the heavyweight joinery used in the chest (dovetails &lt;em&gt;everywhere&lt;/em&gt;), the connections between the pieces are robust enough that a less-strong wood works fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say you want your box to be ~2'x2', and I'm going to assume that it will be about 6&quot; deep too to fit the contents.  That's going to be a pretty lightweight pine box.  Compare that to, say, oak, and you will see a savings of 30-50% in weight, with not really a huge difference in durability if properly constructed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want the box to look &quot;better&quot; than a simple stained and varnished pine box, you might want to go the route used for Schwarz's tool chest.  He used milk paint to cover the chest - a base layer of red followed by a black outer layer.  As the chest wears in, the black will get scuffed off, revealing the red underneath.  Personally, I find this effect very pleasing.  You could do something similar in the Lionel orange and blue, or even get really fancy and do up the Lionel logo in paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fSsUJm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fSsUJm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;trains&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lionel-train-set.com/1953/1953.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T13:58:08.987" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T13:58:08.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3166" CreationDate="2016-01-13T18:59:27.553" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on what you have available for tools.  Assuming a minimal set of tools, and limiting myself to commonly available stuff, I'd recommend using 1/4&quot; plywood for the top and bottom of the case, and 1/2&quot; hardwood for the dividers and sides.  Baltic Birch plywood would be the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Dad made a similar case for me when I was a kid for storing my many matchbox cars.  As I recall, it was a hardwood box with plywood bottom and a piece of Plexiglas set that slid in a groove to cover it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T18:59:27.553" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3169" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3171" CreationDate="2016-01-14T11:58:43.553" Score="4" ViewCount="1846" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm aware that there is a separate type of vise specifically for drill presses, but the workshop where I'm at are a little short on budget and I'm wondering if a normal bench vise like this one &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WxjASm.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WxjASm.png&quot; alt=&quot;vise&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;can be used for a drill press as substitution for the specialised one. Also, does anyone know whether it's difficult to unmount a bench vise from a bench? Many thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1597" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T14:00:50.343" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T22:38:46.477" Title="Using a normal bench vise for a drill press?" Tags="|vises|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3169" CreationDate="2016-01-14T13:53:12.970" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem with using a vice like that on a drill press is that it is difficult to keep the work piece in the same plane as the table of the drill press.  If the piece is canted then your holes will not be perpendicular.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I have a couple of vises for my drill press, but never use them for wood.  I more typically use a clamp or just a fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y5kAc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y5kAc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Drill Press Clamp&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T13:53:12.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3169" CreationDate="2016-01-14T14:09:32.863" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if a normal bench vise like this one can be used for a drill press as substitution for the specialised one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no reason why it can't.  The only thing is for the &quot;regular&quot; bench vise, you will have to make extra checks that the piece you are drilling is presented to the drill bit at the correct angle since the regular vise does not have indents for plumb/square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also, does anyone know whether it's difficult to unmount a bench vise from a bench?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without knowing how the vise was mounted, we can't really answer that.  If it's just bolted or screwed on, it should come off fine.  If it's welded, good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T14:09:32.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3172" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3174" CreationDate="2016-01-14T14:20:12.983" Score="5" ViewCount="476" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am interested in taking steps to ensure that some timber that I am drying does not develop spalting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My specific scenario is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recently felled Maple (1-2 months ago),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Whole logs with bark retained on full circumference,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sizes from 1&quot; to 5&quot; diameter,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Currently stacked with air gaps allowing circulation around all pieces,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stored in dry concrete basement with steady warm temperature,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Goal is to dry logs/branches whole with bark for craft work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone looked at this setup and told me that spalting was probably unavoidable in the larger peices, but I find that doubtful. Is it unavoidable? Have I done what I can do already?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The broader question here is &lt;em&gt;what steps should one take to preclude spalting when drying wood&lt;/em&gt;? If my specific scenario helps provide context to answer that question, good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1695" LastEditorUserId="1695" LastEditDate="2017-01-28T14:18:22.867" LastActivityDate="2017-01-28T18:13:35.197" Title="What steps should one take to avoid spalting when drying timber?" Tags="|hardwood|wood-drying|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3173" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-14T14:36:53.020" Score="3" ViewCount="1267" Body="&lt;p&gt;My dog thought this was a great idea, just need some advise on what type finish is on the wood currently? I'm going to sand the chewed part to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hrHO4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hrHO4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The bench&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vplf2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vplf2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Finish&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1696" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T15:16:51.083" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T15:51:47.180" Title="How do I fix a bench that my dog chewed?" Tags="|wood-repair|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3172" CreationDate="2016-01-14T14:41:00.530" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The broader question here is &lt;em&gt;what steps should one take to preclude spalting when drying wood&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spalting, as you probably know, is the result of fungal attack on the wood.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spalting&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; lists several conditions that need to be met for spalting to occur:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/maMmS.png&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/maMmS.png&quot; alt=&quot;wiki snip&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, if you want to preclude spalting, do the opposite of the things listed above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you are attempting to season whole logs, they will retain water much longer than if it were sawn and hence be susceptible to fungal attack for a longer period of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you keep air circulating around the entire log to quickly get the moisture content down, it &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; reduce the risk of spalting.  That's a double-edged sword because rapid drying leads to rapid cracking of the log cross-sections.  However, you state that you have &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whole logs with bark retained on full circumference&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which will not help drying at all.  Bark helps the tree retain moisture and greatly slows air drying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it were possible to place the logs in a totally oxygen-free environment, that would probably be your best bet.  However, I doubt you have the ability to do that (unless you happen to live in a submarine or have access to a magical air-tight workshop and can work wearing an oxygen mask).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There might be a fungicide you can apply to the logs, but this is just speculation on my part.  I've certainly never heard of one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to note that the Wikipedia article references a &lt;a href=&quot;http://openagricola.nal.usda.gov/Record/IND43907252&quot;&gt;paper on spalting of sugar maple&lt;/a&gt; that may be of interest, if you feel like going through the trouble of acquiring it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T15:04:13.797" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T15:04:13.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3173" CreationDate="2016-01-14T15:22:31.247" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you want to refinish the whole table, this is really just going to come down to trial and error. Find some scrap wood, head down to the store to find some similar looking stains / oils / etc., and keep trying on scrap until you find something. You're probably not going to get the finish exactly right. You might also want to take a look through &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=distressing%20wood&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these links&lt;/a&gt; about distressing wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The damage is too extensive to fill it with putty, you'll probably want to remove that corner and replace it, or remove and replace that entire end piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing you could try is changing the shape of the table a bit. E.g. maybe if you cut all corners at 45 degrees (to remove the chewed part and give the table a chamfered corner look), or cut a flat inch or two off the damaged side it could turn out well. But again you'll have to experiment with finishes, although you don't necessarily even have to match the finish... Another idea could be to cut the corners off then get creative, perhaps strip all the finish off just the sides and give it a different color, like a darker band around the edges or something, or even trim it with a different kind of wood. (As a bonus this'll also hide that splotch of gray stuff on the right in your picture.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, your dog will probably keep chewing it, you also might want to look into ways to change that behavior to prevent further damage in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Warning: I don't actually know what I'm talking about and have limited experience.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2016-01-16T15:51:47.180" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T15:51:47.180" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3172" CreationDate="2016-01-14T16:18:51.317" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Moisture is the largest contributor to wood spalting, especially maple.  However, what you are doing will greatly reduce the risk.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only wood I have used so far that has spalted when kept in a dry place is my yellow birch.  The bark is too good at preventing moisture from leaving the wood.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maple, especially the small stuff you have (under 6&quot;), really shouldn't have any issues with spalting if you cut it an have it drying right away.  One thing that could help even more is if you have a dehumidifier in the basement with the wood (at least in the damper parts of the year).  This would help remove more moisture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now after all that is said and done you want these pieces to be used whole, with the bark on, so even if by some strange chance that they spalt a little, no one will see, notice or care if you are keeping them as such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more likely issue if these logs are longer, is splitting as it dries.  I had a 6' long piece of maple about 6-7&quot; diameter and let it dry, it split all over the place, but it didn't spalt at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T16:31:36.713" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T16:31:36.713" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3169" CreationDate="2016-01-14T17:31:06.723" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will not easily be able to use a vice like that (or any vice) on a drill press, because you will have no way to reposition it. To mount it on the drill press' table you would have to screw it a thick piece of wood, then bolt the wood to the table, but then it would not move so you would have no way adjusting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make an adjusting fixture you would need an xy-table, but xy-tables are not normally mounted to drill presses because they are too large and heavy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally work is clamped to the table as LeeG shows in his answer. In addition to a vice grip clamp consider getting a clamping set:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o22Mam.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o22Mam.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clamping sets cost only about $60 and are an incredible deal considering the functionality they offer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T17:31:06.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3166" CreationDate="2016-01-14T17:34:13.537" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do not use pine because it has a strong grain which means it will tend to warp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For box-like objects the usual material is boxwood (doh, I feel dumb saying that) or birch. Both those woods have a softer grain and tend to stay flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T17:34:13.537" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3162" CreationDate="2016-01-14T20:04:07.257" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it's normal. How much grain break-out or splitting you get is a function of several factors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sharpness of the router bit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rotation speed of cutter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Feed speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Depth of cut&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cutter geometry (straight-fluted, upcut spiral, downcut spiral, number of flutes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to reduce splitting as much as possible you would:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a sharp cutter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase the RPM of the cutter up to either the max rating of the bit, or the max your router will go to, whichever is lower&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a slow feed speed, though not so slow that you generate a lot of heat and burn the timber&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take many shallow passes of cut&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a cutter with more flutes, or if suitable use an upcut or downcut spiral - upcut spiral pulls the chips upwards but will also tend to break out the top face of a board, downcut spiral pushes the chips downwards and will tend to break out the bottom face of a board, but if you're rabbeting (i.e. leaving some material on the bottom of the cut rather than trimming the full thickness of the board) then this is a good cutter to use. A downcut bit is also good to use for slotting (with timber either side of the cutter), provided that you have some good extraction or you're using compressed air to blow into the slot as you cut, so that chips are ejected properly. Spiral bits are a bit more expensive than straight-fluted cutters, so it depends on how much work you're doing / how often you'll use it as to if it's worth it to get one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Practically, what this means is, once you've got a decent bit and whacked the RPM up on your router, play around with the depth/width of cut until you find something that works. It's very common when hand-routing to make several shallow passes until you get to finished depth/width. Another strategy is to use bigger cuts when hogging out most of the material and then leaving only a shallow cut for your last hit. Taking out the large cuts is called &quot;roughing&quot; and may leave you with a rough cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T20:04:07.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3169" CreationDate="2016-01-14T22:38:46.477" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used a regular vise many times on a couple of drill presses and on a milling machine.  Because sometimes you just need a bigger vise.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't recommend it for precision work, mostly because bench vises are designed to be able to clamp a wide variety of objects rather than to easily reproduce particular clamping configurations.  So expect to spend significantly more time re-registering your work if you have to move it.  Of course, that whole &quot;clamp a wide variety of objects&quot; thing has its advantages too, and has been the reason behind most of the times I found myself using one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, be aware that most bench vises aren't particularly square.  Don't assume that the top of the jaws are parallel to the worktable.  Most of them are canted slightly to one side or the other.  On some of them it will change based on how tight the rotation bolt is.  (Just generally, they don't tend to be very precise implements.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, sometimes big, deep jaws just make things enough easier that it's worth the extra fiddle-factor to get the alignment right.  For a drill press like the one pictured, I recommend using carriage bolts where the square section matches the width of the slots in the table.  From there either drill the holes in the vise's flange bigger or turn down the shafts of the bolts and re-thread them as necessary depending on what you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1285" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T22:38:46.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3173" CreationDate="2016-01-15T23:56:03.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Round all the corners (to hide the fact that just one was damaged), and then finish the newly exposed wood? As long as all the corners match each other, folks will assume this was a deliberate design decision, even if they don't match the rest of the bench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T23:56:03.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3182" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3183" CreationDate="2016-01-17T04:21:27.370" Score="9" ViewCount="1713" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.macbeath.com/product/walnut-lumber&quot;&gt;lumber sales site&lt;/a&gt;, what is a board foot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am use to seeing lumber measured width by height, but these products are measured thickness by board feet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1518" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-02-06T00:10:19.387" LastActivityDate="2016-02-06T00:10:19.387" Title="What is a board foot?" Tags="|lumber|terminology|measurement|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3182" CreationDate="2016-01-17T05:05:34.343" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;A board foot is a volume of wood 1 inch by 12 inches by 12 inches; i.e., 144 cubic inches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the board is 1/2&quot; thick and 12&quot; wide, one board foot would be 24&quot; long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the board is 2&quot; thick and 6&quot; wide, one board foot would be 12&quot; long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that although rough lumber closer to advertised size than dimensional lumber, it is still often sold in nominal sizes; i.e., even the dimensions of rough lumber may be slightly larger or (more likely) slightly smaller than advertised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T05:05:34.343" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3182" CreationDate="2016-01-17T15:04:52.083" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As rob pointed out a board ft. 144 cubic inches.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When dealing with rough cut lumber that is always how it is calculated for sale.  Partially because it is NOT the final dimensions of the board, you will need to plane and join the sides making it smaller. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boards you find in Menards and Home Depot already have had this finishing process done and are selling a board with the finished dimensions.  But if you measure them with a tape, often it will say 1&quot; x 12&quot; board, but it is really 3/4&quot; x 11.5&quot;.  Same as a 2x4 is really 1.5&quot; x 3.5&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now when buying this lumber, you also need to realize that you can get it in 4/4, 6/4, 8/4 and sometimes 5/4.  This is how many 1/4&quot; thick the board was when they cut it.  so a 4/4 board dried might be 7/8&quot; thick.  It is still counted as 4/4 or 1&quot; for calculating board feet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a 8/4 board will still (mostly) be the same price / board ft. as a 4/4 board, but realize that you will get 1/2 as many, since it is twice as thick and you are getting '2' boards in one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally these are going to be either 8' (most common) or 10' boards and they will vary a bit in width.  Rarely do they have boards under 6&quot; wide and usually not greater than 10&quot;.  If they do, they usually say. And when you buy them, they will send you a mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exotics can come in any size, even 3&quot; x 2&quot; x 3', but then I've always seen that stated as 'remnants' to get a box of cutoffs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2016-02-04T16:45:14.670" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T16:45:14.670" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3187" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3192" CreationDate="2016-01-17T18:04:45.367" Score="4" ViewCount="1337" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently took a bowl turning class and want to build experience in a frugal way. From a quick online search, I see bowl blanks cost around $10 ~ $30, depending on the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of wood blanks should I start out on, negating aesthetic qualities and focusing on dollar value? Should I be buying 6 x 6 x N stock and cutting it down?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1518" LastEditorUserId="1695" LastEditDate="2016-01-17T21:21:20.860" LastActivityDate="2017-07-25T20:04:19.123" Title="What kind of wood blanks should a beginner use for bowl turning?" Tags="|wood-selection|turning|bowl|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3165" CreationDate="2016-01-17T18:27:47.750" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just used it on a coffee table I built. The top consisted of 1x2s of different species with different stains. Used the One Coat on it. It went on smooth and same appearance across all the boards. It had a decent amount of working time where it didn't dry out by the time I got to the other side. I used the clear satin. Pretty matte, tiny bit of sheen but better than most. Virtually no brush strokes. Only thing is on some boards the grain was raised and the One Coat covered it, but went into the valleys a bit. Meaning it was not 100% smooth in that portion but couldn't tell until you were right against it. Still had full coverage and protected though. Took a screw driver to scrape a test piece. Held up as well as others. I plan on using it going forward on the pieces in my house. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1709" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T18:27:47.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3189" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-17T22:55:01.853" Score="5" ViewCount="1634" Body="&lt;p&gt;To protect a reclaimed table top, could I use gloss poly as the first coat and then top it off with a flat poly?  I've heard that gloss gives better protection, but I want a flat finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1710" LastEditorUserId="272" LastEditDate="2016-01-18T08:25:44.497" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T09:18:23.143" Title="Flat polyurethane finish for tabletop" Tags="|finishing|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3189" CreationDate="2016-01-18T09:18:23.143" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;could I use gloss poly as the first coat and then top it off with a flat poly? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes you can do this, in fact many good guides recommended that you do this. Where you want to build a substantial varnish finish (e.g. more than four coats) for a very good level of protection it's best to use gloss for the first few coats then use matt/flat varnish only at the end as a surface coating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This prevents a few issues, but primarily you don't have to worry about successive coats of matt varnish combining to create a veiled or cloudy effect which hides too much of the wood's character. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've heard that gloss gives better protection, but I want a flat finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to consider is that you can create a matt surface on the gloss varnish which will obviously save you having to buy two types of varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's really quite simple to do, all that's required is creating a fine and uniform scratch pattern on the varnish. In the past this was commonly done by rubbing down with fine steel wool (000 or 0000 grade) but today many people use the finer grades of Scotch-Brite. I'm more of a fan of steel wool because I think it's slightly easier to use for this purpose but both will do the job, and Scotch-Brite lasts &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; longer so it is a better buy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When rubbing down varnish it should be allowed to dry well so that it is good and hard. How long this takes depends on how thickly it was applied and the local temperature and humidity, but as a rule it's safest to wait at least a couple of days after the last coat was applied, and waiting a week or longer wouldn't be a bad idea in colder weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice you know if your varnish has become hard enough if there is no gummy, dragging feeling as you go over the surface and the dust created is fine and white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T09:18:23.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3191" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-18T13:37:51.740" Score="3" ViewCount="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought some really nice cedar wood that I am building a swingset with. I have kept the wood indoors because I am wanting to seal it to further protect it from the weather ... but I really want to keep the beauty of the wood itself. The color and grain if you will. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am confused on what products to use ... I hear of people staining it and then sealing it with poly ... some people talk about using marine products, etc etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I heard good reviews of a product called 'McCloskey Man O’War Spar Marine Varnish' ... but it doesnt look like it has UV protection. Can anyone give me any info and/or products that I should use? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1713" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T13:37:51.740" Title="looking to seal cedar playset" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-01-18T16:26:29.827" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3187" CreationDate="2016-01-18T16:23:37.200" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If dollars is your biggest concern, (and with the cost of some blanks, it should be!) I would recommend firewood.  If you have access to a bandsaw then this is doubly easy.  The majority of the wood I turn is stuff I've set aside while cutting fire wood.  Either as I cut it into chunks or later when I split it in half to dry.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are an urban dweller, then keep your eyes open for places where they are cutting down trees.  Often especially if it is the city they don't mind letting someone else take some, it's that much less they have to clean up and deal with.  Also sometimes when they cut trees, it is stacked on the curb for later pick up, ask and you can probably get more than you can fit in your car.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firewood gives you a lot of free wood to practice an learn on, and since it's free, you don't have to worry about 'messing it up'.  I have yet to buy any wood for turning, but then I have had access to LOTS of firewood.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another one might be if there is a mill nearby.  You might be able to pick through and buy a bunch of slabs.  I have my own mill, so provide my own slabs, but they can be very cheap, maybe even free, and you can cut circle banks from them.  I use a lot of these as well, for flatter, thinner bowls plates.  Often they are still quite pretty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T16:23:37.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3141" CreationDate="2016-01-18T19:22:42.183" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/17-router-tips&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this Popular Woodworking article&lt;/a&gt; a chip free router bit seems to be a very good solution for cutting those through holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FRm0O.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FRm0O.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Chip-Free Bits&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Spiral bits often make a smoother, more accurate cut than straight&#xA;  bits. An up-cut spiral bit pulls chips up and out, making it perfect&#xA;  for cutting mortises in solid wood. A down-cut bit pushes chips&#xA;  downward, ideal for making chip-free dados in plywood and melamine.&#xA;  (Down-cut bits are not recommended for use in a router table, however,&#xA;  because they can push the workpiece up off the table.) A compression&#xA;  bit has spirals running both ways, up and down, pulling chips toward&#xA;  the middle of the bit. It’s the best bit for routing the edges of&#xA;  plywood or melamine–you’ll get a chip-free surface on both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can drill out most of the material then clean it up with a router using this type of bit.  If the corners need to be square then you get back to using chisels or possibly a hand held jig-saw to cleanly remove the last little bit of material.       &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T19:22:42.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3194" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-18T22:10:02.363" Score="8" ViewCount="1358" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I've designed a piece of furniture, I need to source the wood for it. The wood is often sold in plank form that I need to cut to length when it's too long and glue together when it's too narrow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a technique other than trial and error for working out the optimal number of planks to purchase and how to cut and glue them to make the &quot;sheets&quot; I need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, are there software utilities that do this for me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: In my particular case, the supplier can provide the wood in specific dimentions (2.5m lengths of 150mm wide planks in the thickness I need). So I really just need to work out how many of those planks need gluing side-by-side to make the wide boards in such a way as to produce the least wasted wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1665" LastEditorUserId="1665" LastEditDate="2016-01-20T16:05:14.497" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T16:05:14.497" Title="What techniques are there to find the optimal wood cutting list for a project?" Tags="|furniture|cutting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3195" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3196" CreationDate="2016-01-19T00:10:10.610" Score="3" ViewCount="9063" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a Stihl MS 271 with a 20 inch bar and I love using it to mill up logs into pieces I can use. I often run into larger stock that would really be easier with a longer bar.  That said, the spec says my saw supports up to a 20 inch.  I don't use it often so its not like I'm going to be running a 30 inch bar day after day on hardwood.  Think a few hours a month max.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it safe for the saw if I put a longer bar on it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1715" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-02-03T19:58:23.007" LastActivityDate="2019-05-05T14:49:26.053" Title="Can I add a longer bar to my chainsaw for milling lumber?" Tags="|milling|chain-saw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3195" CreationDate="2016-01-19T01:31:38.127" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally I wouldn't recommend using a larger bar than is recommended.  I think the biggest issue is you will burn out your saw.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there is one thing to think on that might make it more 'ok'.  When milling with a chainsaw there are special chains (ripping chains) and bars you can use to reduce the strain on the saw.  Like other blade, most chain saw chains are designed to cut across the grain, and when you use those to cut along the grain it takes more work for you and the saw.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation would be to talk with a stihl dealer and find out if you can go longer if you use the bar and chains for milling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Found the following information about the mills you are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.granberg.com/content/frequently-asked-questions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;asking about&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The general rule is, the more power your saw engine has, the faster the cutting speed. Almost any engine that runs will cut, it just depends on how much time you want to spend milling your lumber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;General Guide for Chainsaw Power&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Log Size  -  Engine Size&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;up to 18&quot;   55cc to 67cc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;18&quot; to 36&quot;  68cc to 85cc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;36&quot; &amp;amp; larger 86cc to 120cc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2016-01-19T02:41:16.843" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T02:41:16.843" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3194" CreationDate="2016-01-19T03:36:18.900" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for quick and easy, I am currently using &lt;a href=&quot;http://cutlistplus.com/&quot;&gt;CutList Plus&lt;/a&gt; (no affiliation) and it does everything you mentioned in your question.  I don't want this to sound like too much of a software product review, but it handles storing your supply of lumber (dimensions, cost, types) and then lets you enter all of your parts.  Panels can be separately created and it will break it down into parts for you. From here it will generate layouts, which you can optimize for ripping or cross-cutting, or manually re-arrange. It will also generate a bill of materials and reports on project costs. It automatically accounts for waste, blade kerf and other items that need to be factored in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But of course, people have been building things long before there was software to create cut lists.  A lot of it was probably done by trial and error, and there might have been more waste.   Some strategies I can think of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First, consider any limitations due to equipment, space, etc.  Performing a rough cut with a circular saw in your garage and further breaking down in your shop might be easier for you but will affect the final layout of parts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Placing parts with a similar dimensions next to each other&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Starting with large parts and then trying to place smaller parts in the waste areas&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After your first attempt, try swapping certain parts around to see if it reduces waste or allows more parts per board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are making multiple panels of different sizes, it might be more optimal to build a larger panel and then cut it down to the individual sizes you need.  i.e. If you need one panel that is 8&quot; wide and another that is 9&quot; wide, but your wood is 6&quot;, it is more optimal to make a 18&quot; panel from three 6&quot; boards and later cut your 8/9&quot; panels than it is to use two boards for each of the 8&quot; and 9&quot; panels.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T03:36:18.900" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3194" CreationDate="2016-01-19T05:54:44.853" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a good answer for dealing with sheet goods here already but it sounds like the question is asking about solid woods where I don't think planning cuts in advance works as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Admittedly, I find &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodworkerssource.com/shop/grad.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hardwood lumber grading rules&lt;/a&gt; confusing but they do give some idea what I can (or cannot) count on when shopping for lumber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example; for my most recent project I wanted to use some maple which was locally available as &lt;em&gt;no. 1 common&lt;/em&gt;. That grade tells me that I can expect to get clear cuttings measuring at least &lt;code&gt;4&quot;x2'&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;3&quot;x3'&lt;/code&gt; from &lt;code&gt;66%&lt;/code&gt; of each board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I can plan an entire project to be built from 4&quot;x2' or 3&quot;x3' pieces then I suppose I can make a guess at home much lumber I need but at least for me that usually isn't the case. I end up inspecting and measuring boards at the lumber yard and re-planning my cut list based on what's available. I can usually do better than 66% but only if I can adapt to whatever knot and defect placement I find. In this case I found boards between 6 and 8' by between 5 and 10&quot; and had to plan how to assemble panels from there based on the cuts and grain pattern I think will work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there's a better approach I'd love to know about it too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1221" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T05:54:44.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3194" CreationDate="2016-01-20T04:40:07.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you do the project in Google Sketchup, there is a plug-in that will compute a cut list. I used to do a large, custom-built book shelf successfully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T04:40:07.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3202" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3204" CreationDate="2016-01-20T12:55:31.363" Score="6" ViewCount="1354" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I was researching the term &quot;spalting&quot; in wood, I found that there is a very big interest in spalted wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When is it good for the wood and when isn't it good? I'm referring to &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3172/what-steps-should-one-take-to-avoid-spalting-when-drying-timber&quot;&gt;another post&lt;/a&gt; on WW SE that asked how it can be avoided.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1563" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-01-20T14:47:48.450" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T14:59:55.447" Title="When is spalting beneficial for wood?" Tags="|storage|wood-drying|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3202" CreationDate="2016-01-20T14:57:08.473" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general spalting is not good for wood.  It is one of the stages of the wood rotting.  But spalting in the early stages can add character to a piece of wood.  Such as &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9BaXA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9BaXA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turners use spalted wood all the time because of the pretty colors and patterns that arise.  In lumber it is more difficult. because logs don't tend to rot evenly, so while you might get some nice pretty boards, you will also get clean boards and boards that are rotted to uselessness.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, spalting is a discoloration of the wood by fungus.  It can be a hard job getting enough colors and still keep the wood solid.   Very light spalting is (IMO) ugly and I would prefer heavier or none. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T14:57:08.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3202" CreationDate="2016-01-20T14:59:55.447" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When is [spalting] good for the wood and when isn't it good?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spalting can provide a lovely patterning to wood that would otherwise be more plain.  Please see the image below for an example of spalted maple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fz8vCm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fz8vCm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;spalted maple&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2014/11/working-with-spalted-wood/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maple is usually otherwise fairly plain-looking (assuming it's not figured maple), and the spalting provides a bit of interest in an otherwise plain-grained wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with spalting is that it's a fungal attack on the wood fibers.  It's fine when the fungus only has superficially attacked the wood and has really only added coloration.  However, if left too long, the fungus can break down the wood fibers, making the wood spongy, punky, and rotten.  If you're expecting the wood to last, rot is of course a bad thing.  Also, punky wood is much harder to work since it has a tendency to crumble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were working on a project where you expected consistent, even grain, having spalting in a piece of wood would be detrimental.  For example, if you wanted clear maple and it had a streak of spalting, that would not be good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another facet of spalted wood that people sometimes overlook is that working with it can be hazardous to your health.  Breathing in fungal spores is generally a bad idea, so a dust mask is suggested when working spalted wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T14:59:55.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3209" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3210" CreationDate="2016-01-23T19:10:38.547" Score="3" ViewCount="1188" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm shopping for a new miter saw and this time I want to buy a compound slider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm having a hard time getting information about the horizontal cutting depth of the slide (not the cutting depth vertical against the fence).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to use this mainly for cross cutting rough hard woods up to 12&quot; in width (up to 2.5&quot; thick), but I also want to make smooth cross cuts for building shelves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This miter will live its life on a miter bench in my basement shop. It does not have to be mobile and I'm more about cross cuts than compound miter cuts for molding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm leaning towards the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00S4OQ9A4/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;amp;colid=2N95GNRJ8S4SN&amp;amp;coliid=I1IQKT9OSMKCUF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;DEWALT DWS709&lt;/a&gt; for CAN $399 but I can not find how far the slide cut is, and I don't know if it's ideal for the above type of work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone advise me on the cut depth, comment on that saw or any other related advise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1734" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2016-01-24T02:49:40.250" LastActivityDate="2016-01-24T14:36:27.117" Title="What is the crosscut capacity of the DeWalt DWS709 compound sliding miter saw?" Tags="|miter-saw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3209" CreationDate="2016-01-24T02:56:42.030" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://servicenet.dewalt.com/Products/Detail?productNumber=DWS709#&quot;&gt;owner's manual&lt;/a&gt; from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dewalt.com/tools/saws-miter-saws-dws709.aspx&quot;&gt;DeWalt's website&lt;/a&gt;, the crosscut capacity at 0º Miter / 0º Bevel is 9-9/16&quot; (243 mm) wide and up to 4-1/2&quot; (114 mm) thick.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there is also a special procedure described in the &quot;special cuts&quot; section of the owner's manual whereby you can remove the top part of each side of the fence and build a platform to increase the crosscut capacity to 13-3/8&quot; (340 mm), but this also reduces the maximum thickness to 2-15/16&quot; (75 mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2016-01-24T02:56:42.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3209" CreationDate="2016-01-24T14:36:27.117" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you primarily want a saw to cross cut thick boards (even with angles) I would recommend you take a look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=radial%20arm%20saw&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;biw=1366&amp;amp;bih=705&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwjj8uSm1MLKAhVGKiYKHXVCDxcQ_AUIBygC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;radial arm saws&lt;/a&gt;.  Granted new ones appear to be a bit more expensive than a sliding compound miter, (even the craftsman appears to be about $800 US, but my brother-in-law got one used for $150 and it can cut boards about 16&quot; wide at 0 degrees.  It can also cut double angles as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2016-01-24T14:36:27.117" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3212" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-25T16:46:20.620" Score="2" ViewCount="38" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a &lt;strong&gt;set of rules&lt;/strong&gt; to follow when dividing many(as many as needed) standard 2750mm X 1830mm board of chipboard according to a cutting list to ensure the least amount of waste? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1740" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T16:46:20.620" Title="Dividing a board of chipboard" Tags="|measurement|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-01-25T23:18:54.860" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3213" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3214" CreationDate="2016-01-25T23:40:59.760" Score="7" ViewCount="3450" Body="&lt;p&gt;In multiple questions (&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2548/is-there-a-certain-way-to-cut-a-2-thickness-piece-of-wood-on-the-miter-saw/2549#2549&quot;&gt;this is one&lt;/a&gt;) having to do with sliding miter saws, we have been admonished how to correctly make cuts - to wit: with the motor off, pull the saw outward, push the saw down, turn on the motor, push the saw forward, turn off the motor.  This is described as the safe way and even shows up in instructions provided by manufacturers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, when I use my radial arm saw, I pretty much do the opposite, to wit: setup the cut, turn on the motor, pull the saw outward, push the saw back, turn off the motor. I think this is the safe way to do it - have made thousands of cuts without mishap and I'm sure it's the accepted procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is: why is the safe way to make the miter saw cut to push, and for the radial arm saw to pull?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both cases the blade is turning the same direction and on both saws the cut board is against a fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2017-03-29T12:15:35.617" Title="Making safe cuts: Sliding miter saw vs Radial-arm saw" Tags="|technique|safety|miter-saw|radial-arm-saw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3213" CreationDate="2016-01-26T03:12:23.047" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are, indeed, using your radial arm saw correctly, but it's important to note the critical differences between the two tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both cases, you would be making a &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/2015/49&quot;&gt;climb cut&lt;/a&gt; when pulling the blade toward you.  A climb cut is generally less safe because the blade literally tries to &quot;climb&quot; over the wood as it pulls itself into and over the wood.  If you are not used to using a radial arm saw, it can be difficult to control and can pull itself toward you faster than you may expect, especially if the blade's teeth have a positive hook.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a blade with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/2017/49&quot;&gt;negative hook angle&lt;/a&gt; makes a climb cut easier to control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So my question is: why is the safe way to make the miter saw cut to&#xA;  push, and for the radial arm saw to pull?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's start with the second part of that question--simply put, it is impractical to use the radial arm saw any other way. First, you cannot easily raise the blade over the workpiece.  Second, it pushes the workpiece down into the table. The blade's ability to climb over the workpiece is limited by the fact that the blade's height cannot be raised accidentally in the middle of a cut on a properly set up saw. To make a cut with a radial arm saw by pushing the blade instead of pulling it toward you, you would need to pull the blade toward you, position your workpiece behind it, and clamp the workpiece down (to prevent the saw from potentially lifting it off the table).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In contrast, a sliding miter saw does have the ability to raise the blade over your workpiece. However, it does not have any feature to lock its blade down at a fixed height, allowing it even more climbing ability if used to make a climb cut rather than following the recommended procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T15:35:53.303" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3215" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3216" CreationDate="2016-01-27T16:54:08.530" Score="8" ViewCount="2174" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw this photo on another table saw question and it's basically identical to the sled that I built.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L8QhP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L8QhP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I use the sled my hands push on the back fence to move it forward. The blade will cut the piece and continue through the back fence and emerge under the blade guard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a problem where my hand will push on the blade guard and position my thumb or palm in the path of the blade. After doing some woodworking for several hours this mistake sometimes happens. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I've caught my mistake but I want to modify my sled to fix this problem. The only solution that I can think of is to make the blade guard longer. While this would solve the problem it makes working with the sled more difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to do something that stops the sled from moving forward far enough for the blade to emerge from under the guard, but I can't figure out how that would work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1734" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-10-02T07:27:53.697" LastActivityDate="2016-10-02T18:58:33.993" Title="Building a safer blade guard on a table saw sled" Tags="|safety|table-saw|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3215" CreationDate="2016-01-27T17:01:08.650" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your inclination is to use the piece that sticks out the farthest to 'push' the sled.  As you noted changing that is the smart thing to do.  Making it longer would be a pain, but my recommendation would be to put a handle  on the top of the blade guard so you naturally grab that!  If you mount it right it will also discourage you from putting your hand in the wrong place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5oOC3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5oOC3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T17:01:08.650" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3217" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3218" CreationDate="2016-01-27T17:06:01.080" Score="6" ViewCount="5171" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1HP dust collector that is connected to a few 90' bends and a few gates to redirect flow. It wasn't something that I thought was very long or involved many bends but it resulted in a reduction of suction that rendered the dust collector useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm planning of installing 4&quot; tubing around my basement shop that leads to a new dust collector with more HP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I calculate how much HP is required. I don't want to waste money buying a new dust collector that can't handle my tube layout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1734" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T02:55:56.980" Title="How to calculate dust collection horse power per feed and bends" Tags="|dust-collection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3217" CreationDate="2016-01-29T01:48:22.050" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note that 90 degree bends greatly restrict airflow and should be avoided as much as possible.  Long sweeps, less severe bends, and diagonal runs of dust collection pipe will cause a smaller drop in static pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edited and condensed from my answer on using a &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/773/49&quot;&gt;shop-vac vs. dust collector&lt;/a&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;CFM vs. Static Pressure, defined&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air volume is measured in cubic feet per minute (CFM) or liter per second (l/s)--the volume of air that the device can move from its intake to its exhaust in a given amount of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Static pressure is measured in inches of water (often referred to as inches water column, or inches WC), as in, how many inches the suction device can lift water up a pipe, or in millibar (mbar).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In simple terms, static pressure determines how much resistance (“static pressure loss”) your dust collector can overcome in order to move a given volume of air through the hoses and pipes. When it comes to designing a dust collection system, the raw CFM figure is initially more important than the raw static pressure figure, though static pressure does come into play once you start designing your ductwork (more on this later).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Is that enough CFM and static pressure?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;WOOD Magazine has a great &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/dust-collection/figure-dust-collection-needs/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; on calculating CFM and static pressure requirements for dust collection. Although the worksheets in the article may look intimidating at first glance, they aren't too difficult to fill out. The article includes some typical CFM requirements for various tools, some of which I've included or summarized below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Table saw, radial arm saw, miter saw, bandsaw: 350 CFM, 165 l/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Belt, disc, or drum sander: 350-550 CFM, 165-260 l/s (depending on size)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Table-mounted router: 195 CFM, 92 l/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thickness planer, up to 13&quot;: 400 CFM, 190 l/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thickness planer, 14&quot;-20&quot;: 785 CFM, 370 l/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now let's look at some contenders for an entry-level dust collection system. A 1hp &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.grizzly.com/products/1-HP-Dust-Collector/G8027&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Grizzly dust collector&lt;/a&gt; rated at 8A@110V produces 500 CFM/235 l/s and 2.76&quot;/7 mbar of static pressure. As you can see from the CFM figures above, under ideal conditions this dust collector should be able to capture most of the dust from most tools except larger sanders and 14&quot; or larger planers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, I said that was under ideal conditions. This is where static pressure comes into play. Every inch of pipe or hose, every turn, and every change in diameter produces resistance which your dust collector (or vacuum) must overcome. You can use one of the various static pressure calculators such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/staticcalc.xls&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bill Pentz's static pressure Excel spreadsheet&lt;/a&gt; to calculate the static pressure drop produced by your ductwork and hoses. For the Grizzly 1hp dust collector we looked at earlier, the total static pressure drop can be no more than 2.76&quot;/7 mbar. If you plug only 500 CFM/235 l/s and 7 feet (2 m) of 4&quot; (10 cm) flex hose into the calculator, you'll see the static pressure drop is almost 3&quot;/7.5 mbar, so we already need to look at a more powerful dust collector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although this is the simplest way to size a dust collector, you don't suddenly go from 500 CFM to 0 CFM. The excessive static pressure loss simply reduces the airflow through the system. Some manufacturers or magazines provide the CFM curves at various static pressures, which is helpful in determining whether you can sacrifice a few CFM for a longer run of pipe or hose while maintaining the recommended 4000 FPM air velocity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Other considerations&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, even the best dust collector will not capture all the dust, and even if you pony up the cash for a HEPA filter your dust collector will disperse some amount of fine dust back into the air. That is why you should try to exhaust your dust collector outside if it is practical (while also venting outside air back into the shop), and you should still wear a well-fitted respirator with replaceable P100 (HEPA-equivalent) filter, regardless of any other precautions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T02:55:56.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3160" CreationDate="2016-01-29T03:52:49.473" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a type of plywood called bending plywood.  All (or at least many) of the plys are parallel in grain not cross grained.  It's pretty floppy.  Glue several pieces to build up your arch.  It's available from better lumber yards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="309" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T03:52:49.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3220" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3221" CreationDate="2016-01-30T16:58:35.620" Score="3" ViewCount="1922" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm expecting a new member of the shop family to arrive soon and as any expectant father I'm worried about delivery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 250lbs+ band saw that needs to be lowered down a single flight of stairs into the basement, and I'm trying to figure out the best approach to doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll update this with a diagram shortly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1734" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-01-30T21:52:38.053" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T16:44:33.603" Title="How to lower large equipment down the basement stairs" Tags="|safety|tools|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3220" CreationDate="2016-01-30T18:27:55.040" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back it down with a stair walker:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00O39FJ2S&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Capacity-Appliance-Truck-Stair-Climber/dp/B00O39FJ2S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1454178497&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=stair+dolly&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2016-01-30T18:27:55.040" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3222" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3225" CreationDate="2016-01-30T21:29:10.563" Score="6" ViewCount="11638" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built a tabletop gluing up seven 2x4s together, and it warped &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt;. &#xA;Two opposing corners are up and the others down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Is9L.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Is9L.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://m.imgur.com/v6hCb8t&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know cheap construction 2x4s can warp, but can this be fixed? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way I can think of is to plane it a lot with my hand plane. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1755" LastEditorUserId="38" LastEditDate="2016-02-01T14:58:53.450" LastActivityDate="2016-02-13T16:53:31.530" Title="How can I fix warping on board made of glued 2x4s" Tags="|glue|wood-movement|hand-planing|warp|panel|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3220" CreationDate="2016-01-31T00:11:59.590" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some friends and a case of beer moved my entire shop from the garage to basement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T00:11:59.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3220" CreationDate="2016-01-31T01:16:06.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My solution for bringing a (still boxed) cabinet saw down into the basement via the bulkhead stairs was two people above slowly letting out ropes arranged for 2x mechanical advantage as it slid down the stairs plus myself underneath guiding and providing additional support. It worked, but I'm not sure I'd recommend it. Should have unboxed and brought it down in pieces, probably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since then I too have been looking for a better way to rig tackle for this purpose. In Theory it ought to be possible to arrange a crane setup, but I haven't yet found an answer I like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T01:16:06.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3222" CreationDate="2016-01-31T15:09:00.713" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not really an answer but a large comment that could point out several pitfalls that could have brought you to this point. I am not sure of the best advice for your situation as the warping looks significant. Like discussed in comments I think you might be better off starting over and paying attention to points below. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Knots and Pith&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on where you sourced these it is likely that you could have large amount of knots and pith. When you got to purchase lumber you need to check for these things as they will largely affect the drying process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/74/why-should-i-avoid-using-the-pith-section-of-quarter-sawn-lumber&quot;&gt;Why should I avoid using the pith section of quarter sawn lumber?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Normalizing Wood&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wood you purchased should sit in the environment you plan on keeping it in for several weeks or months depending. While it might not looked warped in the store you sometimes don't know how long its been there and more importantly I doubt your build location has the exact same humidity. While gluing can help discourage some movement the wood is still going to lose / gain moisture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wood Selection&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I would still try this, and look forward to this summer, many would caution against using softwoods like pine, spruce and fir as they can be prone to warping. Also, depending on the use for the table softwood would damage more easily. This point might not be for you but you are likely using pine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1582/how-can-i-deal-with-wood-from-diy-stores-that-is-crooked-and-may-or-may-not-be-d&quot;&gt;How can I deal with wood from DIY stores that is crooked and may or may not be dry?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Glue up Process&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is of immense importance that the gluing surfaces are perfectly parallel and flat. A failing in this area would give the wood more room to move as well. Your choice of clamping tools and process would also impact this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/972/what-is-a-good-method-for-laminating-pallet-wood-reclaimed-lumber&quot;&gt;What is a good method for laminating pallet wood/reclaimed lumber?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alternate Grain During Lamination&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are gluing up it is important to try and have the grain directions of the boards compliment each other so that when they do try to warp that the other boards will help mitigate the movement. A decent example is on the end of this table:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bobreuterstl.com/2015/04/butcher-block-table-with-easy-treatment/small-butcher-block-table-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LWeK2.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bobreuterstl.com/2015/04/butcher-block-table-with-easy-treatment/small-butcher-block-table-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bobreuterstl.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2806/special-considerations-for-a-very-large-engraved-food-serving-board&quot;&gt;Special considerations for a very large, engraved food serving board&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are impressive answers using &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/laminating&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;laminating&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;laminating&lt;/a&gt; that might be of interest to you that cover these topics in more detail. I added some question links above to some of those questions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Starting Over&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do choose to start over and have access to a table saw (With a good outfeed table) you could rip down the table on the glue lines. That could be hard on the blade and hard to do depending on the size of table. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That won't do anything for the warp but what you can do to address that but save the wood is make some cross cuts on the warped boards. Putting them back together will reduce the overall warp of the boards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again keeping in mind all of the other point I made above this would be overkill for big box store lumber. It is a solution nonetheless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T23:46:45.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3226" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-31T15:18:35.587" Score="7" ViewCount="2019" Body="&lt;p&gt;My woodworking has been at a standstill during the winter months. The main reasons for that are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I no longer have stable surfaces to work with since I work outside&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I need to wear warm clothing which prevents me from safely using many power tools&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As of now though the temperature is hovering around freezing. Still cold but I thought about using my router real quick to clean up some 2x4 name blocks I am making for kids. I could move my router table to the end of my deck, which is flat, and run that for a couple of minutes easily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a problem with that idea though. The cold is not the best friend of electronics and tools. I worry that it might be too brittle and shatter. While that might not be a certainty I think I am right to be cautious about this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to safely work in colder temperatures outdoors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-01-31T18:17:00.650" LastActivityDate="2018-11-26T11:18:36.880" Title="How do I know when it is too cold to work outside?" Tags="|safety|tools|power-tools|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3226" CreationDate="2016-01-31T18:31:35.840" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say the only real potential for danger is your hands being too cold and your reactions / dexterity / sensitivity being low, as well as getting bulky clothes caught in machinery as you already identify. As long as you can avoid those two things you'll be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that temperatures tolerable to humans aren't cold enough to significantly change the properties of router bits - certainly not for long enough to affect your work, they'll heat up virtually instantaneously anyways (even before you start cutting... that motor puts out a lot of heat), but you could just keep your router bits inside if you're uncomfortable with the idea. Or even just palm them for a couple seconds. They're tiny, they'll change temperature very quickly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The electric motors themselves will be fine. You'll want to avoid melting snow / ice and getting water in them while they're running, of course, and you don't want to rust your bits (especially if you spread a lot of salt outside in the winter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stick a high power space heater next to you if you need it. Even outside, if it's not too windy, they can still provide some warmth, small campfire style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're in the negative F's, you might want to store your tools inside before using them if it makes your feel comfortable, but really &lt;em&gt;none&lt;/em&gt; of your power tools are going to stay cold for long after you start them, even without you making cuts. At least not with today's technology - maybe it'll be a problem some day if we ever get 100% efficiency electric motors and perfect, zero-resistance blades ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2016-01-31T20:42:10.060" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T20:42:10.060" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3222" CreationDate="2016-02-01T13:28:59.033" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I know cheap construction 2x4s can warp&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are multiple possible causes for distortion in a glued-up panel like this. Often more than one of them are to blame, although there may be one major culprit. I suspect that's the case here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since your tabletop ended up 'in wind' (twisted) and didn't cup or bow I think the wood itself is likely to be mostly or solely to blame, with a possible contribution from the jointing of the board edges or stresses introduced during clamping (one edge tight and another looser, due to irregular clamp pressure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the wood when you bought it was not well dried, sadly very common in 2x material, it might have had an equilibrium moisture content (EMC) well above the norm, e.g 18% or higher. The further drying of the wood down to 10-14% could account for this, in concert with the grain pattern in individual boards which can lead to more or less of a tendency to change shape during shrinkage, see diagram below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wFkdK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wFkdK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sawing types and stability&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The only way I cab think of is to plane it a lot with my hand plane. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can in theory plane warped glue-ups down to flat just as one does with an individual board that's in wind, but you can lose a lot of thickness this way. In this case the warping appears to be so severe that it's not a viable fix as the high corners will end up much too thin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose the best fix for this is to start again from scratch with new material (ideally selected for even, straight grain and minimal knots) but it may be possible to rectify the problem using the existing wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First step would be to rip it back into individual boards, sawing by hand if necessary. Then you flatten each one as much as needed to allow you to proceed and when that's done you re-joint the edges and glue the tabletop back together again. Once the glue has fully dried you'd complete your flattening of the top and then affix it to the leg/apron assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few techniques that can be employed to help a tabletop stay flat over time that you may wish to incorporate into the table. Firstly some general info on allowing for expansion:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/908/what-general-considerations-do-i-need-to-take-into-account-for-wood-movement/910#910&quot;&gt;What general considerations do I need to take into account for wood movement?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hardwood buttons and expansion plates:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2720/will-these-table-legs-support-this-table/2731#2731&quot;&gt;Will these table legs support this table?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Battens to help hold a tabletop flat:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2439/stabilizer-for-softwood-tabletop-that-bows/2441#2441&quot;&gt;Stabilizer for softwood tabletop that bows&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T13:28:59.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3226" CreationDate="2016-02-01T15:07:58.787" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general how cold can you safely work, is how safe do you feel working in that temperature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used all my tools in sub zero temperatures (below -18C).  I don't like it, and if I needed to use them for more than 30 minutes I'd start a fire in the stove to try and make it comfortable.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I've used, my jointer, table saw, routers, lathe, etc. in very cold temps.  In general they handle it better than you.  The one place you might want to take care as far as your tools is moisture (bringing them into a warm place and it condenses).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I don't recommend prolonged use in the cold, but no reason not to use them if you can still do so safely.  I suspect that people watching me use some of my tools in the winter would cringe (I often wear gloves), but as long as you take care, (don't wear a scarf!, or other loose cloths) the tools should be just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(unless of course there are warnings for the tool in question from the manufacturer!)&#xA;Oh, yeah, of course you shouldn't be using glue, or any drying finish below 40F (5C)...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2016-02-01T16:48:18.107" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T16:48:18.107" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3231" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-01T17:04:49.280" Score="5" ViewCount="1183" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've built an irregularly-shaped desk with irregular, five-sided cabinets. It now needs a modesty panel, but because of the unique angles and circumstances, I'm stumped as to how to attach such a panel within the design requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The challenges:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Because this is fine furniture, there can't be any visible fasteners on the outside of the desk. Fasteners on the inside must be concealed and tasteful. The final piece will be stained, not painted, any patching and filling will show.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Due to the size of the finished desk, it needs to be able to be disassembled into smaller pieces for moving if necessary. That means that the two cabinets, the top surface and the modesty panel must be able to separate and re-attach in a non-destructive way. (ie. no glue or screws where the wood will wear out and not hold after repeated screwing and unscrewing.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The modesty panel needs enough structural integrity to not fall apart when it is separate from the desk.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There should be some way to attach cables to the modesty panel, like a cable tray.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The modesty panel has three panels, each joined at very slight (5-11 degree) angles.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a top view with the desk top removed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bCUq9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bCUq9.png&quot; alt=&quot;Desk Problem&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The three panels of the modesty panel as well as the cabinets are built with 3/4&quot; birch plywood. The two inner joints can be attached permanently, but the ends that attach to the cabinets have to be detachable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Questions:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What type of fastener would be best to join the panels to each other where a &lt;em&gt;permanent&lt;/em&gt; connection is needed, keeping in mind that it 3/4 plywood joined end to end, the angles are slight, and no fasteners can be visible?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What type of fastener would be best to join the panels to the cabinets where a &lt;em&gt;removable&lt;/em&gt; connection is needed, keeping in mind that it is 3/4 plywood joined end to face at a slight angle?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My though is that a cable management tray of some kind might be the solution to add more structural integrity and create more surface area, but I'm still not sure how it would all attach together. Hopefully someone has some clever fastener or joining trick that might work here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-02-16T05:07:49.343" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T02:21:16.657" Title="Joining an irregular, detachable modesty panel together and to an irregular shaped desk" Tags="|joinery|furniture|design|fasteners|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3232" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3234" CreationDate="2016-02-01T18:52:02.020" Score="16" ViewCount="2410" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to reconcile the following 3 points but cannot:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is &lt;strong&gt;extremely important&lt;/strong&gt; to let wood sit for a while in the environment it is intended to be used in before using it for a project so that it reaches equilibrium moisture content (EMC) with the environment. Evidence: This advice comes up time and time again here, in forums, in articles, everywhere. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is &lt;strong&gt;impossible&lt;/strong&gt; to do so where I live, where the EMC has varied from 2.8% to 29.1% on an almost daily basis over the last 2 years. Evidence: See below.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Building furniture from wood &lt;strong&gt;apparently works anyways&lt;/strong&gt;. Evidence: I live in NYC. There are 15 million people here with furniture that isn't constantly tearing itself apart.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can an extremely important requirement for well-built furniture be apparently impossible, yet well-built furniture exists anyways? One of the three points above must be false. It is either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not  that important, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Entirely possible, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nobody's furniture in NYC lasts longer than a year or two before warping itself to pieces.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is it? What am I missing here? In such a wildly changing environment, &lt;strong&gt;how is it actually possible to let wood reach its EMC&lt;/strong&gt;, or is the advice misguided, and does it not actually matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sources for point 2 above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hourly weather records for Jan 2014 thru Jan 2016 for NYC, source &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wunderground.com/history/airport/KNYC/2015/2/1/DailyHistory.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Weather Underground&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Equilibrium_moisture_content&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hailwood-Horrobin equation&lt;/a&gt; for calculating EMC from temperature and relative humidity, via &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.csgnetwork.com/emctablecalc.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;CSGNetwork.com's EMC calculator&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the calculated EMC according to the above data for a typical 10-day period in my area, showing a highly varying range from about 6% to 23% even over the course of single days:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kxckb.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kxckb.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the calculated EMC (hourly) over the past 2 years, showing &lt;strong&gt;very little correlation between EMC and season&lt;/strong&gt;, a high noise distribution between 2.8 and 29.1:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i1ndX.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i1ndX.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is temperature (C) and relative humidity (%) just for completeness over the same 2-year period. There are clear seasonal variations of course but within a day / week it varies greatly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lts01.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lts01.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SRYaU.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SRYaU.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/rj7y5vjlcf37h86/history-combined.zip?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;my weather and calculated EMC data&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/qvh5j17pnl3b6jg/history-combined.csv?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;uncompressed&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I make all this make sense? Evidence suggests that the advice to &quot;let wood sit for a few weeks or months to reach equilibrium with the environment&quot; is not actually correct (because it appears impossible - what would the target MC be?), but I have to assume I am missing a key point because of my inexperience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the question and answers are evolving I am becoming clearer on what I am confused about: My assumption is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; that the wood's MC changes quickly, it's that in the presence of a highly varying environment I question if it changes too slowly to ever really reach EMC, at least in the conventional &quot;weeks&quot; or &quot;months&quot; suggested resting times. Also I question conventional accepted wisdom regarding season and location (I am gathering more data on these lines as I type this, however). It is given, to me, that live wood has a high MC and needs to be dried; what is really not clear to me after looking at answers and data is if it actually matters that wood rests near its final location, and how much a couple of weeks or months really makes a difference. By all traditional experience, it does, but by the very limited observations I have made so far, it does not seem to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The question ends here.&lt;/strong&gt; The following section contains misc. data related to comments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seasonal temperature / humidity / EMC statistics for past 2 years (21,457 samples) (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/a8l314lju40hedg/statistics.csv?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;full results&lt;/a&gt;). I've included median and IQR, if you swing that way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;          min   max   mean   std  median  iqr    REL HUMIDITY (%)&#xA;Winter     11   100   59.9  20.2   56.0  36.0&#xA;Spring     12   100   62.6  22.7   63.0  43.0&#xA;Summer     24   100   63.2  16.9   62.0  26.0&#xA;Fall       17    97   64.2  17.8   63.0  30.0&#xA;&#xA;          min   max   mean   std  median  iqr    TEMPERATURE (C)&#xA;Winter  -16.7  21.7    1.3   6.2    1.1   8.6&#xA;Spring   -6.1  31.7   14.7   7.1   15.0  10.0&#xA;Summer   11.7  35.6   23.8   3.6   23.3   4.4&#xA;Fall     -5.6  28.3   11.9   6.3   12.2   9.5&#xA;&#xA;          min   max   mean   std  median  iqr    EMC (%)&#xA;Winter    2.8  29.1   12.4   5.1    10.5  7.8&#xA;Spring    2.9  29.1   13.1   5.8    11.6 10.3&#xA;Summer    5.1  28.8   12.4   4.3    11.3  5.4&#xA;Fall      4.0  25.7   13.0   4.5    11.9  6.9&#xA;&#xA;          min   max   mean   std  median  iqr    EMC (%) BY MONTH&#xA;Jan       4.2  25.2   11.7   4.5    10.0  5.7  &#xA;Feb       5.1  22.9   12.0   4.5    10.6  6.5&#xA;Mar       2.8  26.0   11.7   5.4     9.7  9.0&#xA;Apr       2.9  29.1   12.0   5.9    10.2  8.9&#xA;May       3.9  25.9   13.1   5.6    11.6  9.5&#xA;Jun       4.6  29.0   14.3   5.2    13.2  9.4&#xA;Jul       5.4  28.8   12.9   4.6    11.7  6.0&#xA;Aug       5.5  23.2   11.6   3.9    10.8  4.7&#xA;Sep       5.1  23.3   12.5   3.9    11.7  4.9&#xA;Oct       5.7  25.7   12.9   4.3    11.9  6.7&#xA;Nov       4.0  23.4   12.6   4.8    11.3  7.9&#xA;Dec       6.0  29.1   14.8   5.1    13.6  8.8&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The major variable that affects the above is Winter/December 2015 had record-breaking high temperatures (72F/22C was not a white Christmas). From this I learn two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tighter range of seasonal EMC averages (12.4-13.1%) and medians (10.5-11.9%) suggest a reasonable target EMC. This is good news.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is no statistically significant difference in my area's relative humidity and EMC per season (or even monthly, really). This leads to other questions outside the scope of the original version of this post.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This raises some additional questions for reflection: Most notably 1) is a &quot;few weeks&quot; or a &quot;few months&quot; really enough time to let wood sit, and 2) that season doesn't matter contradicts some accepted experience, although this may be unique to my location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2016-02-02T23:11:47.987" LastActivityDate="2021-09-15T07:18:52.440" Title="How is it possible to let wood reach equilibrium moisture content?" Tags="|wood|wood-movement|moisture|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3231" CreationDate="2016-02-01T19:00:57.153" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What type of fastener would be best to join the panels to each other where a permanent connection is needed, keeping in mind that it 3/4 plywood joined end to end, the angles are slight, and no fasteners can be visible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this, I would consider a splined joint.  The image below shows two boards that are coplanar, which is pretty easy to set up and execute.  However, I'm assuming that if you can build a five-sided desk, you can jig this joint up with your 5-11 degree angle with little issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RJf4D.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RJf4D.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;spline&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.table-saw-guide.com/image-files/spline-joint_edge-spline.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What type of fastener would be best to join the panels to the cabinets where a removable connection is needed, keeping in mind that it is 3/4 plywood joined end to face at a slight angle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your afterthought here actually gave me an idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My though is that a cable management tray of some kind might be the solution to add more structural integrity and create more surface area, but I'm still not sure how it would all attach together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think adding something like a cleat to the inside of the modesty panel would be a good option.  I imagine the inside of the modesty panel has a cleat glued to it with a matching cable tray piece that locks into place when it's assembled.  Then you can attach the cable tray piece to the rest of the desk however you see fit.  I would probably use pocket screws, but you have a better idea of your level of &quot;fine-ness&quot; required than I do.  Maybe threaded inserts and bolts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this will require a bent or segmented cable tray piece to match the facets of the modesty panel.  The image below shows a cut-through view of the modesty panel and the cleat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e1p3r.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e1p3r.png&quot; alt=&quot;cleat system&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T19:00:57.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3232" CreationDate="2016-02-01T19:13:35.440" Score="18" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In such a wildly changing environment, how is it actually possible to let wood reach its EMC, or is the advice misguided, and does it not actually matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does matter, and the moisture content bit is a bit easier than you're making it out to be.  Let me explain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Humidity fluctuates throughout the day, as we all know.  However, on &lt;em&gt;average&lt;/em&gt;, an area's humidity levels can be given to a fair amount of precision.  For example, we'd all expect a rainforest to have a higher average humidity level than a desert, even though both can fluctuate quite a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How can I make all this make sense? Evidence suggests that the advice to &quot;let wood sit for a few weeks or months to reach equilibrium with the environment&quot; is not actually correct (because it appears impossible - what would the target MC be?), but I have to assume I am missing a key point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important thing to remember is that wood starts out containing more water by proportion than the air it's in.  Nature always seeks to achieve equilibrium.  So, if you have a piece of wood with more moisture than the air, the air is going to try to remove moisture from the wood to balance the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At some points, there will be days where the air is more moist than the wood and no loss of water will occur in the wood.  &lt;strong&gt;However, if given enough time, the wood will lose enough moisture that, on average, it is as moist as the air.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After this point, daily fluctuations will move the moisture content in the wood up and down, but this is usually localized to the outside fibers of the wood.  Think of it as &quot;moisture inertia.&quot;  The thicker the piece, the more moisture inertia it has, and the longer it takes to equilibrate with the air.  Conversely, the more moisture inertia it has, the more resistant it is to moisture fluctuations once it reaches EMC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Building furniture from wood apparently works anyways. Evidence: I live in NYC. There are 15 million people here with furniture that isn't constantly tearing itself apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well-built furniture takes these movements into effect.  Poorly-built furniture will have cracks and opened joints (among other problems) where they have not been properly accounted for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Further Reading&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.lostartpress.com/2013/10/27/rethink-moisture-content-for-workbenches/&quot;&gt;Rethink Moisture Content for Workbenches&lt;/a&gt; (Lost Art Press)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.lostartpress.com/2014/03/20/but-is-it-dry-enough/&quot;&gt;But is it dry enough?&lt;/a&gt; (Lost Art Press)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.lostartpress.com/2014/03/17/water-vs-wood-grudge-match/&quot;&gt;Water vs. Wood: grudge match&lt;/a&gt; (Lost Art Press)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-02-02T13:58:21.447" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T13:58:21.447" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3235" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-01T20:18:02.310" Score="12" ViewCount="656" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a nice mortise press that rarely gets use. It's a full sized standing unit made by General.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's located in a basement shop and I'm wondering how to best preserve the machine. I haven't turned it on in over a year, and I want to now protected it since I don't know when I'll next use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it a good idea to cover the machine?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can covering it cause problems (i.e. trap moisture)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How can I protected against rust?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does the motor need to be run? If so, how long and how often?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1734" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T12:44:43.877" Title="How to store equipment no longer being used" Tags="|tool-maintenance|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3232" CreationDate="2016-02-01T21:08:24.600" Score="7" Body="&lt;h2&gt;To warp or to twist, that is the question&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is extremely important to let wood sit for a while in the environment it is intended to be used in before using it for a project so that it reaches equilibrium moisture content (EMC) with the environment. Evidence: This advice comes up time and time again here, in forums, in articles, everywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is very true. Wood is designed by nature to be absorbent of moisture. That's how the leaves get the water they need to create sap. The problem here is that moisture changes the shape of the wood. When it's moisture content changes that results in a change in the shape of the wood, and these changes are what most people don't want to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've purchased expensive wood and stacked it in the garage for just 1 night. The next day it was warped beyond repair. I did not put spacers between the boards to let it flex with the changes in moisture. What I've learned about wood is that it will bend or twist but never return to it's original shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same problem can occur if you take new wood and cut it. In a few days it will all be a different shapes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So letting the wood sit is important, but how you stack it is also important. Give it lots of support, don't put extra weight on it and allow space for the wood to breath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it's going to change shape. That's a fact. Your job is to minimize this as much as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is impossible to do so where I live, where the EMC has varied from 2.8% to 29.1% on an almost daily basis over the last 2 years. Evidence: See below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood breaths so it will expand and contract as the humidity changes. The key is to allow it to do that naturally. With fluctuating levels it just means that you are more likely to warp wood if you do not store it properly. It does not mean that you can not equalize it to your environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Ikea Is Not Carpentry&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Building furniture from wood apparently works anyways. Evidence: I live in NYC. There are 15 million people here with furniture that isn't constantly tearing itself apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The majority of people buy manufactured furniture. This stuff uses man made materials, has been painted and is of generally poor quality. It was just made to &lt;strong&gt;look&lt;/strong&gt; nice. If everyone had furniture made from solid wood they would have to learn how to take care of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good carpenter knows how to build stuff that won't change shape. That is a whole other topic of wood working and I'm sure there are books on the subject, but if you follow those guidelines you won't have any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;It's All Relative&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In such a wildly changing environment, how is it actually possible to let wood reach its EMC, or is the advice misguided, and does it not actually matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's all &lt;strong&gt;relative&lt;/strong&gt; to where the wood was previously. Wood that is already in your shop and has been there for a while has already reached EMC. Yes, your environment is constantly changing but now that wood is changing in an &lt;strong&gt;expected&lt;/strong&gt; way because it's now relative to your environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood that comes from the mill came from a different environment and it now must change. The closer the previous environment is to yours the less change required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;You get what you buy&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's one thing to let wood rest when you receive it. It's another to expect bad cuts, imported woods or very different moisture levels to yield you a nice wood product later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't count how many times I got so distracted by trying to find wood without knots, cracks or length that I needed and forgot to check the end grains. Later after letting it rest the wood warped in a way that could have been predicted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's more often the buyers mistake than it is an environment problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1734" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T16:02:27.017" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3235" CreationDate="2016-02-01T21:52:59.620" Score="13" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it a good idea to cover the machine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Covering it will prevent it from being coated in dust and grime but since it's inside (I assume), it offers little protection from anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can covering it cause problems (i.e. trap moisture)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it were sealed and covered in a plastic tarp, perhaps moisture could build up, but if you cover it with a fabric cover and there is no moisture, you shouldn't have any problems.  If your shop floods then you'd definitely want to make sure the machine was dry and the room well ventilated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How can I protected against rust?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best way is to prevent moisture from building up.  Without moisture there will be no rust.  But there are anti-rust formations you can apply or even paste wax is often used on cast iron surfaces to prevent rust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does the motor need to be run? If so, how long and how often?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shouldn't be necessary since it's electric.  The only reason I can think to periodic run it would be to ensure it still works and you don't find that it's dead when you urgently need it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T21:52:59.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3231" CreationDate="2016-02-02T00:20:12.713" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What type of fastener would be best to join the panels to each other where a permanent connection is needed, keeping in mind that it 3/4 plywood joined end to end, the angles are slight, and no fasteners can be visible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I Googled &quot;blind hinges&quot; and found some nice examples from&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tectushinges.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tectus&lt;/a&gt; and from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ibmhcorp.com/EN/Import-Purchasing-Quality-Control-China/Ibmh/furniture-hinges/brass-concealed-hinges-china-furniture-hardware-wood-fittings-cabinet-door-invisible-components&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ibmhCorp&lt;/a&gt; which could work nicely for the middle joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SH0PM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SH0PM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RL6OZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RL6OZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not suggesting either one, you can do a more thorough search to find what will work for you (skills and budget).  The first above is quite pricey and the lower is inexpensive and looks to be kid stuff to install.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What type of fastener would be best to join the panels to the cabinets where a removable connection is needed, keeping in mind that it is 3/4 plywood joined end to face at a slight angle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then Googled &quot;bed hardware&quot; and found what could work nicely for the end connections from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodcraft.com/category/su108-01/bed-hardware.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Woodcraft&lt;/a&gt;. Again, you can search for what will fulfill your exact needs, but this is a strong sturdy solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DtHZo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DtHZo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bed-rail fastener&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, I would discourage anyone from making attachments with screws into the edge of plywood, but in both types of fastener, the major loading is not being carried by the screws, but by the flanges that are fit into the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T02:21:16.657" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T02:21:16.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3235" CreationDate="2016-02-02T01:00:03.553" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/3237/128&quot;&gt;Steven covers your main points well&lt;/a&gt;. I hope to add a couple others just in case. Some of these bar on common sense but can still be important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove any and all peripherals that you can blades, keys, etc. In that same vein if there is something that can move secure it if possible. You don't want surprises when you (or someone else) is moving stuff around. Remove anything exposed that does not need to be. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tool attachments and accessories should be kept together. Preferably with the tool but together nonetheless. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does the motor need to be run? If so, how long and how often?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Motor? No, not really outside what Steven said. &lt;em&gt;Batteries&lt;/em&gt; though... You need to be careful as different ones have different long term storage needs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/912/how-should-i-store-the-batteries-of-my-cordless-drill/913#913&quot;&gt;How should I store the batteries of my cordless drill?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Storage location can be important too when it comes to moisture and elements. An uninsulated attic is probably not the best place. Out of a location that will get direct sunlight is good advice as well. Sun can degrade some plastics and other cause other reactions as well. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T12:44:43.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3232" CreationDate="2016-02-02T02:03:25.907" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many techniques for designing a piece of furniture that will not tear itself apart with environmental fluctuations, but the key point you're missing is that you ideally want to work the wood while it is at the EMC of the environment in which it will ultimately reside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the climate data you have crunched is presumably for a piece that sits outdoors without any climate control.  If it is going to sit in an air-conditioned house or apartment, however, you need to work with the EMC of that environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another point worth noting is that the wood's moisture content will fluctuate more gradually than the environment's.  If you let your materials come to the EMC of a bedroom then take them into your shop, they won't instantly come to equilibrium with the shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T02:03:25.907" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3232" CreationDate="2016-02-02T06:51:43.600" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that the main problem with your question is assuming that the wood moisture content can change in an instant. This is not the case. Wood fibers &lt;strong&gt;do&lt;/strong&gt; reach a moisture equilibrium with the surrounding air's relative humidity, but this is a &lt;strong&gt;very slow&lt;/strong&gt; process, especially for thicker pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The calculator you used to determine EMC is well and good, but it doesn't tell you the &lt;strong&gt;rate&lt;/strong&gt; at which the EMC changes. The daily fluctuations in relative humidity and temperature don't have an immediate impact on the EMC. The gradual changes over the year do, and this is slow enough to smooth out any fluctuations (even if they can be pretty extreme when viewed up close, on an hourly basis).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider that kiln-drying felled lumber takes weeks, and air drying felled lumber takes roughly a year per inch of thickness, and you can see that wood's MC changes slowly. The same rates apply to furniture in your house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, as pointed out by some of the other answers, all of the data you presented is related to wood that is &lt;strong&gt;outside&lt;/strong&gt;. For indoor furniture the temperature and humidity variations are probably less severe than outside, again minimizing any extreme fluctuations. However, it is worth mentioning that the area of the house does have an impact - there is a big difference in EMC for a piece of furniture in the basement or in the bedroom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T06:51:43.600" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3235" CreationDate="2016-02-02T07:32:00.803" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add to the other answers, the metal parts probably don't need special care other than rust-prevention. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if there are any rubber parts (belts, seals, o-rings, etc.) these might degrade without use. This is especially true for rubber parts that are attached to the motor, such as belts and seals. If the motor runs belts I would take them off and store them in an air-tight bag (some advise rubbing the rubber with silicone grease or petroleum jelly, but I've read conflicting opinions on this practice). Seals are a tougher problem. The best way to maintain them would be to simply run the motor every now and then. I can't really say how often and how long, but I'd run it a few times a year, for a few minutes each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T07:32:00.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3243" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3246" CreationDate="2016-02-02T09:45:40.300" Score="1" ViewCount="562" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to do this project that involves joining acrylic (1cm or 0.4inches thick) to a dowel that's 2.75cm (1 1/16inches) in diameter. I plan on joining the acrylic piece onto the dowel by cutting a hole in the acrylic (using a laser cutter) equal to the size of the hole I'll drill through the dowel, and join them together with a bolt and nut. Does this sound like an achievable thing that won't require enormous amount of time and effort (I'm kind of on a deadline?) Here's what it might look like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1fx4t.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1fx4t.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1597" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-02-03T20:02:02.217" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T17:12:33.647" Title="Joining acrylic and dowel with nut and bolt?" Tags="|drilling|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3243" CreationDate="2016-02-02T12:37:51.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will work, but, there's always but, it also depends on the acrylic (whether it's extruded or cast). Cast is much more durable for the action you're trying to pull, and extruded is prone to cracking when drilled.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1773" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T12:37:51.840" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3243" CreationDate="2016-02-02T15:13:32.550" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see any major problems with that.  Drilling a two holes and running a bolt through them to hold them together is a pretty simple task.  Though drilling a large hole through a dowel can be tricky unless you have a drill press and clamp the dowel well.  They want to twist and roll.  But with the bare minimum you've given us, yes, it's possible and should be reasonable.  Leaving me with the questions of why? and what is this for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-02-02T20:03:46.833" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T20:03:46.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3243" CreationDate="2016-02-02T18:44:04.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That will work, but it won't be very durable. The problem is that the nut or bolt head which bears on the dowel will be making contact on a very small area and the stress may damage the contact area, leading to the bolt coming loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="463" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T18:44:04.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3220" CreationDate="2016-02-04T13:05:06.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As someone who was a single guy until recently, who didn't want to bother my friends with my latest purchase, I moved every single tool I own into the basement on my own.   From table saw to 6&quot; jointer, bandsaw, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've moved things two ways.  First, if it's in the box, I could easily slide the box down the step one at a time (they're carpeted).  When the box was too large or difficult to even GET to the steps, I took the pieces out and carried them down one at a time.  The heaviest was probably the bed of the jointer, and I placed that on a cardboard box and slid just that piece down the steps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, going up might be a different story...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1781" LastEditorUserId="1781" LastEditDate="2016-02-04T16:44:33.603" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T16:44:33.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3243" CreationDate="2016-02-04T17:12:33.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will the dowel be tightly secured to the acrylic with the bolt and nut, or is it designed so the down can spin on the bolt?  Are you going to use washers between the pieces?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're attempting to tighten the bolt with a nut I would worry about cracking the acrylic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think more information on what you're building would help immensely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1781" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T17:12:33.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3250" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-04T20:36:25.487" Score="3" ViewCount="186" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would be really grateful if somebody can help me with the design for my box. I got stuck and just can't find the way around. See the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lubicapatekova.com/Box&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;images&lt;/a&gt; on my website:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/178z2m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/178z2m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q8MHEm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q8MHEm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My initial concept was a basic rectangular shape and to make it more interesting I rotated it in two directions (x- and y-axis) just a few degrees in both ways. The shape now looks kind of sunken into the surface and cantilevered on the other end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have already made the side faces, which are from solid wood (lacewood), and base and top, which are MDF veneered on both sides. The main issue is that it supposed to look like it is opposing gravity, so I need to add some lead weights on the other end so it holds the position and doesn't tip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My initial idea was to build a frame which will conceal the weights and at the same time it will create structure for my second base which will be horizontal to the surface. Then I scrapped that concept as it seems to me quite complicated (loads of angles and nothing is orthogonal). I realized that gravity should be my friend and stick to some &lt;em&gt;self-leveling&lt;/em&gt; compound that will automatically align the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is there any safe resin or any other self-leveling compound that is relatively light, not water-based, doesn't produce so much heat while drying, and doesn't have high shrinkage? Its a wooden box and the base is simply MDF, so it cant withstand very much load. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is to pour the liquid inside and maybe I will tape the contact surface with sellotape so its more less contactless with the compound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1782" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2016-02-06T01:28:29.023" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T12:03:42.673" Title="self leveling compound for my box" Tags="|design|materials|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3255" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3256" CreationDate="2016-02-05T05:38:10.003" Score="3" ViewCount="268" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6LfU0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6LfU0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tool with triangular tip&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fmoQS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fmoQS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tool with triangular tip being used. &quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are some photographs I found online. It has a triangular tip which creates a slit into the wood. Anybody know the name of it or something similar? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1766" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-02-05T11:51:05.170" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T19:01:11.837" Title="What's the name of this tool/bit with a triangular tip?" Tags="|hand-tools|tools|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3255" CreationDate="2016-02-05T11:35:11.120" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks like a custom punch &lt;s&gt;for nails and screws. To help ensure they don't walk when that are first being inserted.&lt;/s&gt; My only trepidation is that punches are normally cone pointed so that the hole has the same diameter. Quite possibly this is still a punch but for something other than nails or screws. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main piece of metal I am not sure what it is yet but it's an unthreaded eye bolt, held to the main shaft with two nuts, which looks like it is there to help you hold the tool in place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am more curious where you found this image. Knowing what was being built might add more insight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From doing a little research I found this photo linked to a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gitaarnet.nl/forum/showthread.php?163154-Claviporte/page3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Netherlands forum&lt;/a&gt; where a user was making a Claviporte / home made piano. After reading the post it seems that my suspicion about the V shape was right. It was being used to create recesses parallel to the grain in a board that was to be made for piano keys. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is indeed a custom tool for a custom purpose. Post refers to the main shaft bolt as a keel bolt. The outer handle is used to ensure the angle an which the v faces. Using this tool across the grain is likely to damage the surrounding wood. Hence why the handle is present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-02-05T19:01:11.837" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T19:01:11.837" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3250" CreationDate="2016-02-05T18:41:00.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have plenty of time you can use plain old polyurethane. Pour some of the fluid into the bottom - say one or two mm and let it dry. Repeat until the desired thickness is reached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a product referred to as casting resin which is a a two part product that needs to be mixed, but it sets quite quickly (minutes), however it releases a high amount of heat and it shrinks a bit when solid. Pigments can be added to make it opaque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T18:41:00.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3258" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-05T23:55:23.280" Score="8" ViewCount="425" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was using a nice paintbrush with polyurethane and it seems that I set it down then forgot to clean it. I have since run into it and I have a shiny, relativity tough, paintbrush now. Needless to say I do not value these qualities of my paintbrush.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I stuck it in a small container of mineral spirits, as it was the only solvent I have available, and left it for a couple of days and for the most part there was no change. Still a tough brush. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again I forgot about it and it has since been months.. So there is no doubt the polyurethane has fully cured by now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did I doom my paint brush to the garbage or is there something I can still do to save it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T04:40:57.563" Title="I polyed my paintbrush then procrastination left me in a predicament" Tags="|finishing|hand-tools|clean-up|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3258" CreationDate="2016-02-06T00:41:42.023" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try using a chemical stripper to dissolve the varnish, as you would when removing this varnish from a table for refinishing. Be careful; many (but not all) of these formulations are quite toxic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However,it may be less expensive to replace the brush, especially when the value of your time is considered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless the brush is something of a family heirloom (my grandfather was a housepainter), I'd recommend replacing... and taking this as a lesson in why you want to clean equipment as quickly as possible after you're done with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-02-06T00:41:42.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3260" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3261" CreationDate="2016-02-06T09:04:11.803" Score="5" ViewCount="2154" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2 sheets of plywood approx 6ft x 18&quot; x  3/4&quot; and my plan is to use them as bench tops in a shed. I need to cut them cross ways so they fit in my car for transportation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to do this so they can be re-joined easily later on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking if I angled the blade like the third cut in this image then it would afford more support for whatever is resting on the bench, &#xA;instead of using a simple perpendicular cut like the first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9WdiK.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9WdiK.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tools I have available:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Circular saw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wood glue&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Screwdrivers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12&quot; Irwin clamp x 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1788" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T13:01:02.870" Title="How should I cut a sheet of plywood for easy re-joining?" Tags="|joinery|cutting|circular-saw|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3260" CreationDate="2016-02-06T11:02:30.437" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Congrats on an excellently done question! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of how to cut the board apart I don't think it matters that much, but with an angled cut providing a wider glue surface area that will provide a stronger joint. In the right context I doubt this increased strength will actually matter though, since I assume the sheets will be supported underneath when installed as your worktops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the plan was to have the glued-up boards support themselves and then any weight put on top IMO you'll want to rethink. Even a very shallow cut giving &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/707/how-can-i-join-two-boards-at-the-ends/708#708&quot;&gt;a scarf joint&lt;/a&gt; I doubt would provide the needed strength if unsupported.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think your major difficulty is going to come when it comes time to glueing the pieces of ply back together, you would ideally want to have at least three long clamps with an opening somewhat wider than 6'. Obviously clamps this size don't come cheap. One option is to make rudimentary sash clamps from 2x4s, each would be nearly seven feet long but could be cut down to a more manageable length after the worktops are assembled so they would then be more practically usable in the shop. However transporting that length of 2x material might present you with the same problem as with the plywood in the first place!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative method to allow clamping that is sometimes used is to attach temporary glue blocks to the wood, similar to how mitre joints are sometimes held together. These blocks can be directly glued on or attached with an intermediate material (often paper), see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2752/how-do-i-temporarily-attach-two-pieces-of-wood-together-for-machining/2757#2757&quot;&gt;tip here&lt;/a&gt; for a little more, however with plywood instead of solid wood it might not work as the surface ply can be weak. However, unlike when doing mitres here you have an advantage as one surface will be hidden so instead I would suggest screwing clamping blocks directly to the underside of the plywood, these can simply be unscrewed after the glue has cured. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The small holes left in the ply after the screws are removed won't harm its strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-02-06T11:02:30.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3258" CreationDate="2016-02-06T11:12:52.907" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Did I doom my paint brush to the garbage or is there something I can still do to save it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Salvaging a brush with hardened varnish (or paint) in it is actually quite doable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will require a long soak in strong solvent or a solvent mixture, as in many commercial brush restorers/cleaners and paint strippers. I don't think it matters that much which you use to be honest, so I would get the one that you think you'll get the most future use from. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an old tip that will allow the bristles to be suspended in liquid for an extended period of time without distorting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hpw15.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hpw15.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Soaking hardened brush&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.familyhandyman.com/painting/tips/paint-brush-care-how-to-rescue-a-petrified-brush/view-all&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Paint Brush Care: How To Rescue a Petrified Brush&lt;/a&gt;]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-02-08T11:42:43.530" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T11:42:43.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3258" CreationDate="2016-02-06T14:34:07.193" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a solvent called Brush Cleaner. It works well on both oil and acrylic based paints. It is stout stuff so wear gloves and use it in an open area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will have to soak it for 24 hours or so but that does the trick for me. Be careful to keep the bristles straight as they soak as they will tend to assume the shape they have been held at. If your brush has dried in an awkward shape even cleaning it may leave you with a brush that isn't fit for use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This product is effective for general clean up of brushes too and will keep them soft and pliable. It is worth keeping a can around for regular use. It comes in a quart, gallon, and even five-gallon container.  Lowe's in my area sells Crown brand but there are others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1790" LastActivityDate="2016-02-06T14:34:07.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3264" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3271" CreationDate="2016-02-07T14:06:06.907" Score="3" ViewCount="18415" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got some dowels whose diameters are slightly bigger than what I need, and I don't want to purchase some smaller ones since I'm on a tight budget. Does anyone know how to reduce the diameter throughout the length of the dowel, preferably efficiently? I only need to reduce the diameter throughout the dowel by 0.25~0.5 cm.I was thinking maybe I can sand it down either with sanding paper, file, electric sander or a electric belt sander, but am not sure whether it will work or will be time efficient (the project is slightly in a rush). Many thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1597" LastActivityDate="2016-04-17T07:07:20.863" Title="Reduce diameter of a dowel (preferably efficiently)?" Tags="|dowel|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-02-09T02:29:29.257" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3264" CreationDate="2016-02-07T15:14:33.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you suggested, the simplest way is sanding. I would start with a coarse grain sand paper (60 or lower) to get the bulk of the material removal, since 2.5 to 5 mm is quite a bit to sand away. The best way to reduce the diameter evenly is to put the dowel in a drill, then spin the drill while at the same time holding the sand paper to the dowel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few suggestions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't hold the sand paper with your hand - it will get very hot very fast. Use a thick glove, or better yet, a concave piece of wood to hold the sand paper. Going slower with the drill will help with this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the dowel is thicker than what can fit in the chuck of the drill, shave off at the tip of the dowel until it does. This will cost you a few CM off of the length of the dowel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the dowel is fairly long, you should brace it on the other end. The simplest way would be putting the end of the dowel through a round hole in a piece of wood.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastEditorUserId="534" LastEditDate="2016-04-17T07:07:20.863" LastActivityDate="2016-04-17T07:07:20.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3264" CreationDate="2016-02-07T15:18:18.677" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chuck the dowel in a drill and make a jig. Two pieces of wood 90 degrees. Glue sandpaper to them and then turn on the drill. Depending on how much you want to take off and it doesn't sound like much I would use a lighter grit. Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1106" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T15:18:18.677" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3258" CreationDate="2016-02-07T15:21:45.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Along with the other recommended chemicals I use a wire brush. Once you have soaked it and it is somewhat supple use the wire brush to clean it. Start at the handle and stroke down with the bristles. This works sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1106" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T15:21:45.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3058" CreationDate="2016-02-07T15:34:00.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;They have drill bits you can use in a regular drill for concrete. Not expensive at all. Then buy some cut nails and tie wire. The bit should be slightly smaller than the cut nail. Drill the hole through the board into the concrete and then cut yourself a piece of wire. Stick the wire in the hole so you have extra coming out like a couple inches. Then drive the cut nail and it won't come out. Good Luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1106" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T15:34:00.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3269" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3270" CreationDate="2016-02-07T22:58:40.880" Score="11" ViewCount="1353" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I started woodworking, I used to setup my tool, do a cut, stop my tool, re-position my piece (or take another one), start my tool, do another cut, stop, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today, I find myself leaving the tool run in-between cuts a lot more than I used too.  It's more time efficient, but is it more dangerous?  Is it better on the motor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All it in all, is there a preferred method of working with stationary power tools such as table saws, jointers, router tables, drill presses, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastActivityDate="2018-11-25T11:40:35.057" Title="Is it better to let the tool run or stop in-between cuts?" Tags="|table-saw|power-tools|jointer|cutting|router-table|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3269" CreationDate="2016-02-07T23:24:01.217" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, that is the right thing to do. Obviously you wouldn't let a power tool run all day when you don't need it, or even walk away and let it run unattended. But keeping it running in between making several cuts in a couple of work pieces or drilling several holes is absolutely fine (I am almost inclined to say &quot;best practice&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the tool as well for work efficiency, it is a huge deal better to keep the tool running for reasonable amounts of time. On/off cyles are what generally limits the lifetime of switches and electronics (although their count is typically in the 6-digit order), and both the force (and thus wear) acting on and the power consumed by the electro motor is highest when switched on. Please refer to the Wikipedia &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inrush_current&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Inrush Current&lt;/a&gt; article for an explanation why switching a tool on is stressful to its electric components. While it is possible to somewhat mitigate the effect, there is no way to eliminate it alltogether, it's just the way physics work.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The prank described in the second half of Bastard Operator From Hell, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bofharchive.com/2000/bastard200007.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;episode 7&lt;/a&gt;, is based on that very effect: &lt;em&gt;&quot;...clicky..clicky...clicky... BOOM&quot;&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many modern tools have a rapid stop functionality for operational safety, which is no more than a motor brake that brings the blade to a halt within a second or two (so basically switching off may be seen as switching &quot;on&quot; in some way as the tool is going from running at &quot;idle&quot; load into &quot;full yield&quot; reverse).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have dust collection or suction / vac on automatic (master/slave), each on/off cycle further counts twice (once on the tool and once on the suction). On the other hand, having dust collection run for longer than absolutely necessary is surely rather an advantage than a disadvantage. It'll pick up some extra dust which you're not going to inhale. Fine. No harm done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is of course the concern of having a power tool run being dangerous by definition. Running it longer means more exposure to danger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opinions will inevitably differ on this point, bit my stance is that if you cannot assure safe operation of a power tool for prolonged time, &lt;em&gt;you should better not use it at all&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Power tools are dangerous, maiming and possibly lethal things, treating them with appropriate respect and safety measures as to exclude the possibility of an injury is a mandatory precondition. In that case, it doesn't matter if the saw is running for a minute longer. On the other hand, if you can't assert that, stay away from them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="135" LastEditorUserId="135" LastEditDate="2018-11-25T11:40:35.057" LastActivityDate="2018-11-25T11:40:35.057" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3264" CreationDate="2016-02-08T11:39:00.653" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;While you can sand dowels to reduce their diameter it's not the most efficient method even to take off just a millimetre or two, and it's difficult to ensure consistency along the length. Especially since you want to remove as much as 5mm I think you'd be much better of using a cutting rather than a sanding operation, following the rule &lt;em&gt;shavings &gt; dust where possible&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I think your best option here would be to rig up a simple dowel-cutting tool, which at its most basic requires one piece of wood, a sharp edge of some kind and two clamps to hold everything in place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a few different iterations of the concept:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KJcyT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KJcyT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Various dowel cutters&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a few links for more details:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://timmanneychairmaker.blogspot.ie/2013/09/frankenstanley.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tim Manney's site&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/GnarlyErik/blog/35575&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lumberjocks&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodgears.ca/dowel/making.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Woodgears&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T11:39:00.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3269" CreationDate="2016-02-08T12:18:31.923" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It's more time efficient, but is it more dangerous? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think as long as any guards are in place and normal safety procedures are followed as mindfully as they should always be followed there's little increased danger. That's not to say there's none, and individual mileage as always will vary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You list table saws, jointers, router tables and drill presses and I think this very much depends on each tool so it would be best to approach thinking about this on a tool-by-tool basis rather than looking for an overall idea of acceptable/preferable practice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it better on the motor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be, although it depends on the tool. And the key factor may be just how long it's left running. Industrial-level tools have very long 'duty cycles', where there may be an expectation that they have to have the motor running continually for an hour or longer at times. Consumer tools are not built as robustly and the potential for overheating when run for longer periods is higher, particularly in hot weather (temperature in the shop is definitely a factor).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the type of tool I'm sure must matter, table saws and especially jointers or thicknesses are obviously intended for working for longer periods compared to say a typical drilling operation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But start-and-stop operation I presume is considered normal for drill presses so drilling, stopping and drilling again should be perfectly fine. And certainly you shouldn't be adjusting a workpiece underneath a spinning bit, that just strikes me as bad practice generally. Note: this is not to say that a drill is put at risk if run continually for long periods, many people use their drills for drum sanding, buffing, with wire wheels, even for turning operations, without apparent harm to the motors. But the quality of the tool probably matters a lot here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With routers, they spin &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; fast and the motor and other internals are being stressed as a result so within reason I would want to stop the tool and let it cool periodically even if you might want to run piece after piece past the bit for extended periods, e.g. when doing long lengths of moulding. This may be unduly cautious but I would feel more comfortable doing it this way myself with a consumer-level router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T12:18:31.923" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3273" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-08T14:48:23.163" Score="2" ViewCount="2640" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having to store a hardwood, well made, finished furniture (bed) in a utility space of my finished basement for a while (5 years currently projected).  In order to protect it, I'm planning on using some of the plastic wrap that is used typically when transporting and taking delivery of such items.  Can I use the the plastic wrap for this amount of time without damaging the furniture or will I need to preform additional preparations or seek another solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a spot picked out that is out of the way of but happens to be next to my furnace (~3ft between furnace and bed).  The furnace is a modern high efficiency one so I'm not not too worried about it affecting it directly via heat or chemical leaks, but if I'm wrong, let me know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1185" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T17:10:02.080" Title="Plastic wrap finished furniture piece for long term storage?" Tags="|furniture|storage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3273" CreationDate="2016-02-08T15:33:32.187" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In order to protect it, I'm planning on using some of the plastic wrap that is used typically when transporting and taking delivery of such items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not suggest storing any wooden item in a plastic bag or wrapped in plastic.  Especially in areas subject to fluctuations in heat and humidity (i.e., basements), plastic is notorious for condensing moisture out of the air, which has a high likelihood of ruining your furniture's finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, I would recommend covering the furniture in an old bedsheet.  This was often done historically to keep dust off of items expected not to be used for a while (there's a scene in the movie &lt;em&gt;Pride &amp;amp; Prejudice&lt;/em&gt; that sticks in my mind, though I can't seem to find a picture).  Really any old sheet will do the trick, but white may be a good option if you're worried about dyes leeching out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have a spot picked out that is out of the way of but happens to be next to my furnace (~3ft between furnace and bed). The furnace is a modern high efficiency one so I'm not not too worried about it affecting it directly via heat or chemical leaks, but if I'm wrong, let me know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The areas around furnaces are usually about the same temperature as the rest of the room unless your furnace has a leak.  I wouldn't worry about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T15:33:32.187" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3275" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-08T17:42:20.257" Score="4" ViewCount="342" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been asked to correct about 1/4&quot; of gap between the front and back of drawers and the bottoms. This chest is very old, the bottoms are 1/2&quot; poplar stock that have been trimed to 1/4&quot; on ends and front to fit into groves. How can this be fixed without destroying the value of the piece?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1800" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T18:27:27.237" Title="Shrunk drawer bottom" Tags="|wood-repair|drawer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3273" CreationDate="2016-02-08T17:51:25.230" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can I use the the plastic wrap for this amount of time without damaging the furniture or will I need to preform additional preparations or seek another solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think you can assume that type of plastic is safe for long-term direct contact with some finishes, varnishes in particular and some lacquers (it is very likely the bed is varnished or lacquered). There are many soft plastics which cannot safely be left in contact with modern finishes over the long term due to issues of migration of the plasticisers out of the plastic, which sort of melts the finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you were certain of the plastic type and its safety in this regard I wouldn't want to risk it myself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good news is that under normal circumstances you don't have to wrap or even cover modern furniture that isn't in use, even over long timeframes. While draping in a sheet is traditional, and is still widely done by some, the reality is that it's far less necessary today with modern furniture because almost all has a hard coating. This is in contrast to much period furniture which had soft or relatively soft finishes which could easily be marred just from having dust sitting on the surface for extended periods. In addition, modern homes are inherently &lt;em&gt;substantially&lt;/em&gt; cleaner than houses in the past, in large part because of the lack of open fireplaces. As you mention your basement is finished I would presume it's not substantially different to the rest of house in regards to dust. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So except for the issue of your cat I wouldn't worry about it and just trust to the finish to protect the wood. A quick wipe down, maybe with furniture polish, might be all that's needed to get the bed back to looking exactly as it does now in a few years when you put it back into service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The desire to use plastic is because I have a P.I.T.A. cat that likes to mark her spots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure you know this already but the best solution to that particular problem is not to allow the cat access to where the bed is. Easier said than done I know!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T17:51:25.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3275" CreationDate="2016-02-08T18:27:27.237" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can think of a few solutions to this problem but I'm not sure how palatable any one of them will be to you or to the owner of the chest given the age of the piece. I'm afraid I also have no idea how any of them might affect value as the furniture market is full of arbitrary standards on what is OK to do to old pieces and what is not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;New bottoms&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is fairly obvious: make entirely new drawer bottoms. If you make new ones from solid wood that match the old ones in construction detail you would want to be quite certain of your dimensions and that the new stock used was very well dried and stable so that future seasonal movement doesn't pose a risk to the drawers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A much better solution in many respects would be to skip solid wood and use 1/4&quot; plywood, which is both stronger and more stable. Obviously you'd sidestep worries of expansion and contraction of the drawer bottom but ply may be an undesirable material given the age of the chest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Revise the existing bottoms&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory you could revise the current drawer bottoms by sawing them apart and glueing in a narrow piece of fresh wood down the centre. If done well the repaired bottoms would be very strong, as strong as originally in fact, but this option is the most work and I'm not sure it's worth the trouble to try to salvage as much of the original wood as possible. As well as that, without careful toning the repair will presumably be very visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although you have to expand the panel by only 1/4&quot; with the loss of wood to the saw kerf and subsequent planing to joint the edges the strip of new wood will end up being wider than this, possibly 7/16&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bridge the gap underneath&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last option is the easiest but might be the least favoured by a traditionalist, and that would be to glue and pin in small slips of wood to whatever parts of the drawer box are needed to bridge the gap and support the existing bottom from underneath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T18:27:27.237" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3269" CreationDate="2016-02-08T19:44:03.773" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a Craftsman Radial Arm Saw in 1974.  I turn it on to make a cut, turn it off, adjust for the next cut and turn the saw on. I just replaced a 290' fence in my back yard and had to cut 1-2 inches off the bottom of each 6&quot; wide board.  I cut them 3 at a time then turned off the saw stacked up three more and cut them.  After over 41 years of using the saw like this it still works like new.  Electric motors manufactured since the 90's are built to be turned on and off in this manner.  The main reason your motor will fail is because of insulation and other parts breaking down over time.  I say use the off switch and same the fingers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1803" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T19:44:03.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1510" CreationDate="2016-02-10T03:12:19.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best and fastest way to get any such detail is by using a template and a router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is nothing that you haven't read or heard already I'm sure. However, the best way to do this is to trace the template and then rough cut to within a 1/4&amp;quot; with a jig or circular saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The router bit will not produce a good result cutting through board, but will do best when only trimming it down to the template&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uvZ8w.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uvZ8w.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;router bit&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.toolstoday.com/images/47108-body.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;toolstoday.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2021-01-26T16:33:41.040" LastActivityDate="2021-01-26T16:33:41.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3260" CreationDate="2016-02-10T20:00:39.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't understand how a 6' long piece of wood, 18&quot; wide, cannot fit into ANY car.  That's smaller than a person.  Put your passenger seat down and have the wood extend into the foot well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No matter what you do, it'll be less than ideal, especially since you're cutting with a circular saw and don't list any means of guiding it, so I can only assume you're cutting it freehand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1781" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T20:00:39.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3260" CreationDate="2016-02-11T00:40:30.160" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless I made a mistake converting dimensions, this is a mere 45*182cm, and 19mm strong. Which will, as LarryBud said, fit in ANY car, yours included. As for leather seats, simply putting a bedspread or such in between wood and seats will do fine (I do that when I drive wood, but usually with pieces that are 250cm rather than 180).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;But...&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... it seems that you &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; want to cut that sheet in half, so... if you insist on doing that, I would do a straight cut. Not only is this easiest, but you can also use a couple of dowels, which greatly adds to stability and prevents you from going insane trying to glue those slippery bastards together in a straight way. Dowels are no fun with a slanted edge, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend fish dowels (3 or 4) in this case (&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; I just realized that the English word for these is &quot;biscuits&quot;), for which you can &lt;em&gt;conveniently and extremely precisely&lt;/em&gt; cut the slit using the circular saw that you have (no free-hand drilling with an improvised jig into end grain as with ordinary dowels... what a nightmare!). That will ensure that the pieces fit together snugly and don't give you trouble shifting around while glueing. Plus, the dowels by themselves are surprisingly stable already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing I'm talking about looks like this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g0KVB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g0KVB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are specialized litte joining saws for that, but you can do just fine wirh a normal circular saw. Simply adjust the parallel guide on your saw table so the cut lands &lt;em&gt;approximately&lt;/em&gt; in the middle, and then you cut a notch into both pieces that are to be joined &lt;em&gt;using the same setting&lt;/em&gt;. Voilà, identical matching notches, plug in fish dowel and add glue, press and done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a more favorable looks, be sure not to cut the notch all the way through, instead stop 2-3cm before the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back when I was in uni, I made a desk that went around the room's corner from a hardboard plate (like what people uses as work surface in the kitchen) joined with a couple of fish dowels and held together with a pair of screw connectors. No glue, just the dowels. Lasted for years, and it would support, well, a female student sitting on it, without breaking. No problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="135" LastEditorUserId="135" LastEditDate="2016-02-12T13:01:02.870" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T13:01:02.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3282" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3283" CreationDate="2016-02-11T02:36:01.513" Score="5" ViewCount="8074" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are all types of wood similar with respect to their ability to conduct heat or are some types better than other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a go-to, cheap type of wood to act as the barrier in windows around window air conditioners; most importantly around unused A/C's left installed during the winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's pretty trivial to come up with solutions involving multiple layers of various materials but I'd really like to stay with the simplicity and ease of a single piece of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1/2&quot; plywood doesn't really do a good job of keeping heat in and cold out, at least not compared to double-paned glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The A/Cs themselves are a good insulator and all gaps are well-sealed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T15:49:05.423" Title="Wood with good thermal insulation" Tags="|wood-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3282" CreationDate="2016-02-11T04:33:57.600" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer depends on which wood species are available to you.  With that being said, you can easily calculate it yourself with a formula and the wood database.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Theory&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can calculate the R value of any specific wood; you need to know the moisture content (MC) and the specific gravity (S).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;R = 1 / (S * (1.39 + 0.028 * MC) + 0.165)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Example&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/softwoods/eastern-white-pine/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Eastern White Pine&lt;/a&gt; has an S = 0.4 @ 12% MC, so you get:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;R = 1 / (0.4 * (1.39 + 0.028 * 12) + 0.165) = 1.17&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/hardwoods/hard-maple/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hard Maple&lt;/a&gt; has an S = 0.71 @ 12% MC, so you get:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;R = 1 / (0.71 * (1.39 + 0.028 * 12) + 0.165) = 0.72&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In comparison, air has an R of 6.25 and concrete of 0.13.  (Bigger is the better insulator)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;In Short&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You just have to find which one has the lowest specific gravity and make sure it stays as dry as possible once installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;em&gt;Understanding Wood&lt;/em&gt; by R. Bruce Hoadley, pp.&lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.ca/books?id=5HBH2ibu-ZwC&amp;amp;lpg=PP1&amp;amp;pg=PA103#v=onepage&amp;amp;q&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;103&lt;/a&gt;-104&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T14:49:00.743" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3284" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-11T04:50:15.893" Score="9" ViewCount="37916" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to buy an adapter to make my shop vac work with one of my hand tools. But as I'm shopping, I realize I'm not sure what exactly I need to buy. I'd like to understand how vacuum hose sizes are specified so that I can measure what I have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example: on my shop vac, the end of the hose measures 2-1/8&quot;ID x 2-1/4&quot;OD, and the end of the attachments measure 2-1/4&quot;ID x 2-1/2&quot;OD. What is the correct way to refer to the size of this hose? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1813" LastActivityDate="2019-04-25T21:37:14.757" Title="How are vacuum hose sizes measured?" Tags="|measurement|dust-collection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3284" CreationDate="2016-02-11T14:48:47.980" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ridgid's Shopvac accessories come in 1-7/8&quot; and 2-1/2&quot; sizes. So from this we can deduce that Ridgid, at least, uses the outer diameter of the attachments. The sizes you describe match what Ridgid refers to as 2-1/2&quot;. That's just Ridgid, of course, but mostly I see this consistently. YMMV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some general strategies to help you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take a quick look at the web site of the manufacturer for your equipment, or a vendor that sells accessories. Look at the size options they offer. That will give you the list of sizes they use to refer to your products.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take a ruler with you when shopping.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If purchasing online don't be afraid to ask about the product (e.g. Amazon lets you post product questions, and for popular products they generally receive answers quickly; and most vendors have at least some form of product sales support). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If purchasing online, you can often go back to the manufacturer's web site with a model number and find more detailed specifications on a product there.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2016-02-11T14:54:01.207" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T14:54:01.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3286" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3294" CreationDate="2016-02-11T14:53:43.323" Score="3" ViewCount="2260" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a shelf above my kitchen sink with intention of putting glasses there to dry off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I treat plywood surface to make it into drainer board? The sink and the shelf are inside oblique corner, so I can't just buy a dish rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for something like this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KNbNZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KNbNZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;from pinterest&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Whats' the necessary slope and the width of drain cuts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1811" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-02-11T15:08:04.087" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T12:50:26.713" Title="How to make dish drainer board from plywood shelf" Tags="|plywood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3286" CreationDate="2016-02-11T15:12:27.947" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How can I treat plywood surface to make it into drainer board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend against using plywood for this application.  The glues in most plywoods don't stand up to water over time and will begin to degrade, leading to delamination of the plywood layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Marine plywood would work in this instance, but that stuff is &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; expensive and not particularly attractive.  For regular plywood, a waterproof or water-resistant epoxy coating would be best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, I'd just go with a regular hardwood (like maple) and coat it with mineral oil or salad bowl finish.  You'll have to periodically reapply the finish, but it's not a big deal.  Note that these finishes are not waterproof, but they will be suitable for this application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-02-12T12:50:26.713" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T12:50:26.713" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3288" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3293" CreationDate="2016-02-11T17:06:29.540" Score="5" ViewCount="321" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a shoe-rack from Spruce and applied a couple of coats of clear matt varnish. My wife wanted a darker colour so I went to the local store where the only suitable product with the right colour was a small tin of &quot;woodstain&quot;, the instructions on the tin said to thoroughly sand any previous varnish so the &quot;stain&quot; would adhere. The product is intended for outdoor use and requires 2 or 3 coats. So I guess it is more than a mere staining colourant and has some other stuff in it that produces a waterproof protective coating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Wr1c.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Wr1c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a satisfactory test on a small chunk of wood I went ahead and lightly sanded, cleaned and then applied the stain using a paintbrush. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The results were hideously blotchy and uneven, mostly due to the fact that the stain seemed to be drying (more like coagulating) before I could brush out any drips/runs. I am now looking forward to sanding it down to plain wood and refinishing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible I applied too much &quot;stain&quot; at a time, or maybe conditions are not right (I brought the work indoors as my garage temperature is below the minimum on the tin).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What techniques should I try with this product?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="158" LastActivityDate="2016-02-13T19:59:14.723" Title="Best way to apply stain" Tags="|technique|staining|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3289" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3291" CreationDate="2016-02-11T20:25:43.470" Score="0" ViewCount="939" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't find any information about safety related to having caster wheels (the kind that can swivel) on a bunk bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only concern I have is if the child leans against the wall while on top and the bed pushed out. Allowing the child to fall between the bed and wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This risk could be reduced with casters that can lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to have wheels to make it easier for my wife to make the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1734" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T20:47:30.410" Title="Can I put wheels on a bunk bed?" Tags="|safety|furniture|design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ClosedDate="2016-02-12T13:34:24.243" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3289" CreationDate="2016-02-11T20:47:30.410" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My dad put plastic caster wheels on the twin beds he made for my brother and I as kids (granted, these were not bunk beds).  On carpet, the wheels made enough of a dimple that it took a bit of pushing to get them to move out of the dimple.  On wood floor, it will be much easier to push.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The only concern I have is if the child leans against the wall while on top and the bed pushed out. Allowing the child to fall between the bed and wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a valid concern.  You could mitigate it by adding a railing on the wall-side of the bed, or possibly tying the bed to the wall when your wife doesn't need to change the sheets.  If you live in a seismic area (looking at you California), tying a bunk bed to the wall might be a good idea anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a purely mechanics point of view, adding casters won't make the bed more tippy than if it had plain legs.  It would just feel more unstable since it can move side to side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This risk could be reduced with casters that can lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the floor you have, this might not make a big difference.  Plastic sliding on wood has a pretty low coefficient of friction.  It will be harder than if the wheels weren't locked, but not much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also use some sort of chock block to keep the wheels from moving, similar to what you should do to a car when jacking it up for maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T20:47:30.410" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3288" CreationDate="2016-02-12T11:18:22.490" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I guess it is more than a mere staining colourant and has some other stuff in it that produces a waterproof protective coating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, this type of product isn't stain in the conventional meaning of the word. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is another example of the dilution of the proper meaning of woodworking terms by manufacturers *sigh* This Ronseal product is a coloured acrylic 'varnish' and I don't know why they don't just market it as coloured varnish to save the inevitable confusion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the stain seemed to be drying (more like coagulating) before I could brush out any drips/runs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well it does call itself quick drying :-) Finishes are indeed coagulating in a way as they dry on a surface and if you pick up some of the part-dried finish as you brush back over previously coated areas you'll get a horrible mess as a rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seemed clear to me that the product is really intended to go onto bare wood and doesn't like going on top of existing finishes. The data sheet confirmed my suspicions. I don't know how strongly this is stressed on the tin but:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;All previously applied film forming products, for example paints and varnishes, should be totally removed.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So just a light sanding was not sufficient. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sidenote on finish removal:&lt;/strong&gt; I would actually try to dissuade you from sanding off previous finishes as your go-to technique. Chemical strippers are usually the best way to get finish off thoroughly. If a purely physical method is a necessity for reasons of cost, toxicity or just smell then scraping is much preferable to sanding: it is faster and more efficient, always cheaper, safer for the user (much less dust) and there is less potential for accidental damage to most furniture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What techniques should I try with this product?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Work as smoothly and efficiently as possible using a larger rather than a smaller brush, but a foam or short-nap roller may be a better application tool.   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to apply the varnish and leave it alone. Resist the temptation to go back over the finish already applied after even a short time. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep a clean brush or lint-free rag dampened with water on hand to deal with drips or runs on edges, don't attempt to deal with them using the application brush.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last note if using a brush, synthetic bristles are highly recommended rather than natural bristles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T11:18:22.490" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3286" CreationDate="2016-02-12T11:49:51.237" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How can I treat plywood surface to make it into drainer board? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of finish, the only sure way to waterproof wood is with a good film finish. While epoxy finishes, such as used in marine applications, are absolutely waterproof common interior varnish is actually surprisingly water-resistant. So a good coat of oil-based polyurethane (not thin, no pinholes or missed spots, paying particular attention to cut edges) will provide quite reliable long-term waterproofing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would in general dissuade you from trying to make something like this from common plywoods which have glue joints of questionable durability. It would be much preferable to make a piece like this from solid wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood is surprisingly durable in solid form and even untreated softwoods should give you years of service, although of course you should expect staining. Choose a naturally rot-resistant species such as true cedar, white oak, black walnut and juniper I wouldn't be surprised if a piece like this help up for decades without any surface treatment given they can survive more than ten years outdoors with exposure to the elements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously if there are any glued joints you must use a waterproof adhesive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whats' the necessary slope and the width of drain cuts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think you need any particular angle, &lt;em&gt;sloped&lt;/em&gt; is probably enough :-) But we can use the shedding angle for flat roofs as a guide, go for 1/4&quot; over 12&quot; (6mm over 300mm) as the absolute minimum and anything great than that is obviously beneficial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T11:49:51.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3282" CreationDate="2016-02-12T15:49:05.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reality is that compared to other materials, wood is not an ideal insulator.  XPS foam, for example, has an R rating of R5 per inch and also acts as an air and vapor barrier.  XPS foam however should not be left exposed due to fire hazards, so perhaps the best of both worlds would be a layer of XPS foam with 1/4&quot; plywood on both sides to give it a nice appearance which will accept a finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T15:49:05.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3231" CreationDate="2016-02-13T16:13:57.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rather than using a single thickness of 3/4&quot; plywood for the skirt, I would suggest using two layers of plywood (they can be thinner if you like) with an internal wood frame not unlike a wood stud wall in a house.  The overall thickness might be several inches thick. The top and bottom plates could be made from plywood shaped to the profile with internal 'studs' to support and mount the outer profile.  If you use 1/4&quot; plywood for the exterior panels you could also create a curved profile. for the skirt.  Since the skirt now has some thickness you can secure the skirt to the pedestals using cleats and screws from inside the pedestal so that all connections are concealed.  If you hold the top of the inside panel of the skirt below the height of the outside panel, you will have a simple cable tray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-02-13T16:13:57.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3222" CreationDate="2016-02-13T16:53:31.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the concerns in other answers addressing the selection, preparation, and arranging of the wood used in the top I would also suggest two design changes.  First,  the overall thickness of the top shown in your picture is only 1 1/2&quot;.  A thicker top (3-4&quot;) would be much better resisting the internal forces that curve/curl the profile.  Second, consider adding &quot;breadboard&quot; ends to the top.  Breadboard ends consist of running a board perpendicular to the top boards, side to side rather than end to end.  Since this end board will be resisting the warping force of the top, turn the 2x4 vertical for maximum strength. Join the breadboard to the end of the top using a continuous tongue and groove connection at the center depth.  This groove connection will insure that the top stays aligned with the end boards.  Although the tongue and groove joint should be a snug fit, it should not be glued in place, except at the center of the joint.  This is because the table top width will expand and contract with the weather, while the end board will not grow and shrink in the direction of its length.  Secure the breadboard ends to the top using lag bolts with an over-sized hole (1/4&quot; bigger than the lag bolt should do it) through the breadboard to allow for the differential expansion/contraction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be possible to apply a breadboard to the end of the top in your picture, but you will need a lot of clamping power to twist it into a flat shape and the top will have a great deal of internal stress.  It may be better to make a new top.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-02-13T16:53:31.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3288" CreationDate="2016-02-13T19:59:14.723" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not recommend commercially available stains for anything intended to have furniture-like quality appearance, especially stain &amp;amp; finish one-step products. The problem with stains is that they are not really a stain, but contain pigment particles. Since the pigment particles are fairly large the deeper the color desired and/or the more coats applied, the more the wood grain is covered up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest trying a wood dye instead. You can get Transfast wood dye powders from Woodcraft.com for about $12 for a 2 oz. bottle (makes about a gallon total). Mix it with denatured alcohol and rub it on with a rag. You can also mix it with water, but water raises the grain where alcohol doesn't. The colored granules are much smaller than those used in stains and the result is the colors are rich and the wood grain really expresses well.  Just rub in the dye with a rag, but use gloves unless you want tinted hands for a couple days. Finish the wood afterwords, with a standard clear varnish, lacquer or other finish as desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-02-13T19:59:14.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3134" CreationDate="2016-02-13T21:16:03.470" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ran a span calculation for a 2x4 oak board at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.awc.org/codes-standards/calculators-software/spancalc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.awc.org/codes-standards/calculators-software/spancalc&lt;/a&gt; using a 35psf live and dead load, the minimum setting available and got a result of 6 foot. Although this is a total load of 900lb., it should be noted that you could easily get several hundred lbs. on the top. I have a similar length long spanning table with aprons at 4&quot; aprons. It looks like your apron depth is marginal and I would recommend increasing it.   As an alternative consider supporting the table with a tressle base and move the deeper support beams in from the exterior.  You can then taper the supports to maintain a thinner edge profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where I am most concerned is in the connection of the legs.  The fact that they are not perpendicular to the floor means they generate a lot more  stress on the connection to the aprons.   There is no way that you can transfer all the weight of the table. In addition the legs must be wide in both directions so that they can resist stress in both the long and short directions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also consider the use of the table during dinners and the arrangement of seating around the table.  The 3' width is very narrow for seating on both sides and room for food dishes in the middle. Also check the seat placement to determine if the legs are getting in the way.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-02-13T21:16:03.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3300" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3302" CreationDate="2016-02-14T21:54:12.117" Score="12" ViewCount="558" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just beginning bowl turning and can't seem to avoid these deep blemishes in the exterior and interior of the bowl. Are these pockets naturally occurring in the wood or am I causing them through poor technique? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have only used a Ellsworth Signature Bowl Gouge so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fZKQf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fZKQf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;blemishes in bowl&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1518" LastEditorUserId="1518" LastEditDate="2016-02-14T21:59:39.330" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T14:04:29.553" Title="What are these blemishes called and how do I avoid them?" Tags="|turning|bowl|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3300" CreationDate="2016-02-15T01:05:58.417" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's called Tearout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is tearing the fibers.  Most of the time when you see that the fibers of the wood are tearing out instead of being cut/sheared by the gouges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three thing that can cause this.  One is the wood itself.  Some species are a little more prone to this than others.  Also wood that is starting to spalt or rot is more likely to do this as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be reduced quite a bit by technique.  The more aggressive the cuts you make with the gouges the more likely it is going to tear vs. cut the fibers.  So as you get closer to the finished shape you want (especially if you see this happening, the finer and gentler the cuts you want to make.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also KEEP the Gouges &lt;strong&gt;SHARP&lt;/strong&gt;.  Sharper gouges are more likely to cut the fibers instead of pulling them out and causing this problem.  It took me a while to figure these things out. (I also don't like how it looks most of the time and it takes FOREVER to sand them out once you make the mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to reduce/eliminate this, when you see your piece is prone to this, make sure your gouges are sharp and if it continues, then take less aggressive cuts.  I've done this to save bowls.  I sharpen the gouge and then take very light cuts, it can 'erase' those big holes, at least to the point it doesn't take long to sand them out the rest of the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2016-02-15T14:04:29.553" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T14:04:29.553" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3305" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3306" CreationDate="2016-02-16T04:26:09.650" Score="5" ViewCount="343" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to create a bookshelf speaker stand but use only joins (no nails, no glue). I want to be able to disassemble the stand and re-assemble it. I don't have many power tools and plan to cut joins using a hammer and chisel. Doing a bit of research I figure I could cut 4 holes in the base and top plate (4 mortises I think is the term) and tenons at the ends of the four legs. Then I'd have a basic stand. What would someone with more experience do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1826" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T16:47:59.093" Title="Creating a speaker stand using only joins" Tags="|technique|joinery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3305" CreationDate="2016-02-16T09:54:06.757" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to make joins using only wooden parts, and no metal hardware, and no glue, there are many types of joint you could use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On larger pieces of furniture, such as tables, woodworkers sometimes use a tusked tenon. You can dissassemble by knocking out the wedge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.craftsmanspace.com/knowledge/mortise-and-tenon-woodworking-joints.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XuviF.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On small pieces you could try dowels. Without glue you would need to take care otherwise the joint may not be very rigid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.craftsmanspace.com/knowledge/dowelling-dowel-joint.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uubq4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One technique is to use a dowel (or wooden pin or peg) to draw a tenon tighter by offsetting the hole in the tenon from the hole in the morticed piece - this is sometimes called a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/joinery/drawboring-resurrected&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;draw-bored tenon&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.craftsmanspace.com/knowledge/wooden-pins-and-drawboring.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LNQSU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.craftsmanspace.com/knowledge/wooden-pins-and-drawboring.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EM3Bj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To construct these with hand tools, the following suffice&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;drill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tenon saw (AKA back saw)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;chisel and mallet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;time and practice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can cut the round pegs from wooden rod or whittle them from rectangular pieces by using a spokeshave. You can make a dowel-plate by drilling a hole in any small piece of steel a few mm thick, use a mallet to hammer the roughly-shaped rod through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Charlie Kilian suggested in a comment. Although you can disassemble dry-assembled dowel and draw-bored tenon joints, they are not often used for frequently disassembled (i.e. portable) furniture. I'd expect the peg might need replacing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could take inspiration from other creations such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2ooAi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2ooAi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.designboom.com/readers/asta-stool-by-karin-ekwall/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Karin Ekwall's Asta stool&lt;/a&gt; - all parts in wood only (though it isn't clear if the pegs are glued in-place)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a6CBc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a6CBc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.praktrik.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Praktrik table&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="158" LastEditorUserId="158" LastEditDate="2016-02-16T16:47:59.093" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T16:47:59.093" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3231" CreationDate="2016-02-16T16:16:09.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lamello has some interesting biscuits that may be of use as well, for example, their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lamello.com/en/home/join-wood/lamello-system/simplex.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Simplex&quot;&lt;/a&gt; biscuits provide detachable edge joins (cutaway view):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nAo8J.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nAo8J.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lamello.com/en/home/join-wood/p-system.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Clamex&quot;&lt;/a&gt; series from their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lamello.com/en/home/join-wood/p-system/system-advantages.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;P System&quot;&lt;/a&gt; (although you do need their tools):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M4I8h.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M4I8h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lamello.com/en/home/join-wood/lamello-system/fast.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Fast&quot;&lt;/a&gt; biscuits (or just regular ones) plus glued edges provide permanent connections:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zyT5c.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zyT5c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cut your edges to the appropriate 5/11/etc. degree angle you should have no problem cutting a biscuit slot (just make sure to not cut through the face depending on the thickness of your panels).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2016-02-16T16:21:25.293" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T16:21:25.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3308" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-16T17:49:52.667" Score="1" ViewCount="165" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on rigging a shelf which is 18 mm sheet of OSB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I just pass a cable through a grommet -protected hole in the board? Would it hold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sheet is 1.5 * 1.2 meters, how much space from the edge do I have to leave for each of the four points of rigging?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nEGRg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nEGRg.png&quot; alt=&quot;Basic illustration&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; -- I want the cables to be slightly non vertical, so that the shelf would be more stable laterally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically what kind of grommet would I need. Or should I call it hollow rivet. &#xA;I know I'm constrained by the radius of wire bending to be 10 times the wire diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the required diameter of the rivet to hold reliably in the board. Does it need to go through whole thickness of the board, or would, say 10 mm be enough? Would threads on the rivet(making it hollow screw) be beneficial? What's the diameter of outer flange required to hold the grommet from being pushed into the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shelf is supposed to hold 50kg overall(not necessarily evenly distributed), that makes ~250N of horizontal force pushing the grommet laterally. And up to 400N of force vertically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1811" LastEditorUserId="1811" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T12:28:12.723" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T12:28:12.723" Title="Can I use a grommet(eyelet) in OSB sheet as structural element? Which size?" Tags="|holes|board-materials|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-02-20T04:56:19.633" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3309" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3312" CreationDate="2016-02-17T03:01:30.643" Score="2" ViewCount="4509" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I just finished my first carving: a Welsh lovespoon, chiseled out of a cedar plank and sanded down smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But now I want to give it that deep rich color and bring out the wonderful smell of cedar. There are a couple of spots with really nice grain spirals, and even the remnants of a knot, and I want to make all those variations pop. But I've never finished, varnished, oiled -- anything -- before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and it needs to be food-safe!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1059" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-02-17T14:00:48.827" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T14:00:48.827" Title="What oil/stain/finish to use on a cedar spoon?" Tags="|staining|carving|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2376" CreationDate="2016-02-17T03:14:11.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simplest finish is to apply a coat or two of paste wax.  I have an assembly bench  with a MDF top which I have treated with paste wax and the wax is very good at repelling wood glues and water.  It requires a fresh coat of wax every year or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1861" LastEditDate="2016-02-26T02:03:22.943" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T02:03:22.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2301" CreationDate="2016-02-17T03:23:25.000" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A variation on the answers above is to make a template like cabinet makers do for counter tops.  They will use either strips of 1/4 sheathing/plywood, place them at the perimiter and glue the parts together to make a template.  As an alternative , you could get large sheets of poster board, place them to the edges and glue  or package tape them together. You can locate your holes by cutting an oversize hole at each location and then apply strips of cardboard to exactly define your holes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T03:23:25.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3309" CreationDate="2016-02-17T10:23:04.623" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;But now I want to give it that deep rich color and bring out the wonderful smell of cedar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any finish or treatment (e.g. mineral oil) you apply will actually have the tendency to lessen the smell, AFAIK nothing will enhance it. Traditionally the cedar linings of chest and cupboards was left unfinished for precisely this reason. And from what I've read you the characteristic odour will be completely gone after a few washes, sorry!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sidenote: I'm guessing you used western red cedar which is not actually a true cedar, but it does still have good rot resistance. The reason it smells like cedar is that it has the same aromatic compounds in the wood that real cedar (cedar of Lebanon) does and these are a natural preservative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So your spoon is made from a naturally resistant wood, making it a good candidate for having no finish put on it at all. Even used for stirring soups etc. it could still last for years and years. I have an unfinished beech spoon that's easily 20 years old now and other than the surface being a little rough it is in extremely good condition. My mother used to leave it standing in simmering soups or stews and it was left soaking in washing water many times..... wood can be surprisingly resilient :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fine sanding and raising the grain&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you want to try using no finish then you may want to spend a little extra time with your finish sanding, using as your finest grit at least 220-240 but you could go up to maybe 320 or 400 (there is likely little point in going any higher than this as there can be on denser woods).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the spoon will be exposed to water, even if only when you wash it, it would be best to pre-raise the grain so that your smoothly sanded wood doesn't go rough and you feel like all the sanding effort was wasted. So after final sanding you wet the wood down. It's best to do this with hot water. The surface will go rough as some of the compressed wood fibres will swell up and it will stay rough after drying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now let the wood full dry and then &lt;em&gt;lightly&lt;/em&gt; sand again with your finest paper. You're just looking to removed the swelled or 'raised' grain that sits above the surface level, nothing more. Some people do this wetting and sanding cycle two or three times just to be on the safe side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that you should have no problems with the wood going rough once the spoon is in service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oiling for looks&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Just like with many cutting boards, you can treat the wood for cosmetic reasons (most boards do not need to be oiled and actually last perfectly well without it). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you want to enhance the look of the wood and give it that deeper tone you can do the same thing and rub in one or more coats of oil. The standard recommendation for the oil for this these days is mineral oil. In the recent past vegetable oils were used for the same purpose and if you'd prefer that then any light-coloured, flavourless oil should do fine but use a nut or seed oil for preference. Despite what you might read elsewhere, you don't have to worry about the oil going rancid and giving an 'off' taste to your food.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; mineral oil or vegetable oil is not a waterproofing treatment for wood, as contradictory as it seems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Varnish&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It just occurred to me you might be using this for dry jobs in the kitchen, in which case you may want to varnish instead of oil the wood to enhance the look. This will do a lot to reduce the nice smell I'm afraid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use varnish you'll want to thin it and wipe it on thinly. So decant a couple of spoons of varnish from the tin to a small jar and add about twice that amount of mineral spirits. A few wiped on/wiped off coats should give a good satin sheen to the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can apply more than six or seven if you'd like to build more of a glossy film.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-02-17T10:28:42.343" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T10:28:42.343" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3308" CreationDate="2016-02-17T10:41:14.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see any reason this wouldn't work as long as the loads on the shelf are reasonable (both the total weight and the placement of any heavy individual items). The OSB is going to be quite strong at 18mm and the portion of the cables running under the shelf will act very much like a conventional shelf support, albeit very narrow ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The weak point in OSB is the cut edges, which can be a little flaky or friable, and the grommets should take care of that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The sheet is 1.5 * 1.2 meters, how much space from the edge do I have to leave for each of the four points of rigging?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure it makes any difference since the board material outside of the holes won't be involved in taking any of the load or other forces exerted on the shelf. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd probably go in from the long edge approximately 15cm myself and more from the shorter edges, purely for reasons of visual balance, I honestly don't think it matters at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T10:41:14.470" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3308" CreationDate="2016-02-17T13:39:31.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Grommets should provide adequate protection for the hole provided they have a bottom flange capable of supporting the OSB board.  I would not recommend a threaded grommet without a bottom flange.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are however, several other design issues to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 18mm/3/4&quot; thick OSB will begin to begin to sag between the openings if the board is not reinforced.  I would recommend using a 3/4 x 1 1/2  (18mm x 36mm) wood edge trim around the perimeter (Long leg vertical) glued and nailed to the the shelf panel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cables may need to be secured to the shelf panel to prevent the shelf from shifting from a horizontal orientation. Although the shelf position may be stable due to the friction of the cable to the grommet, if the shelf is bumped or lifted at one side, it may slide out of level.  You can test this potential risk when you first hang and load the shelf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T13:39:31.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3315" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-17T14:19:02.033" Score="5" ViewCount="324" Body="&lt;p&gt;In few answers I've been advised to reinforce OSB shelf with wooden beam for rigidity over time.&#xA;Hence 3 interconnected questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Isn't OSB supposed to be more stable to elements comparing to wood? Isn't that what's all the adhesive in it is for.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tables give me tensile strength of OSB few times smaller than wood. Can I replace 18mm x 36mm wooden beam safely with 2* 50mm strips of 22mm OSB screwed and/or glued together? That'd give me 50x44 &quot;beam&quot; section -- should be quite enough.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Should OSB surface and edges  be treated if I plan indoor use with no proximity of water. For it's tensile characteristics to remain same over time.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1811" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T20:28:38.643" Title="Can I use OSB in place of timber as structural element" Tags="|board-materials|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3316" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3319" CreationDate="2016-02-17T14:59:42.607" Score="10" ViewCount="872" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was liberating some old hand tools from my grandfather's shop again, before grandma throws them in the garbage, and found some more interesting things. This time I am sure that this one is a woodworking tool!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xbVJs.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xbVJsm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like a tool that's a tapering tool that could be used to make tenons on chair legs or something similar. It seems clear that it is meant to be used in a brace. Seems hard to try and cut a tenon though as I would think the tool would easily drift. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following is the only markings on the tool as well as a view from the bottom that shows the blade. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z7gzT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z7gzT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you think this is called and more importantly what is it used for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-06-28T01:34:46.140" LastActivityDate="2019-07-06T03:09:19.970" Title="What is this brace bit cutter tool exactly and how is it used?" Tags="|hand-tools|tools|traditional-techniques|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3315" CreationDate="2016-02-17T15:59:45.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Isn't OSB supposed to be more stable to elements comparing to wood? Isn't that what's all the adhesive in it is for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OSB is more dimensionally stable when compared to wood. Like other engineered woods there is no grain direction so when its moisture content even does change it will not be significant in one direction or another. Plywood still has grain direction but the plies are glued perpendicular to eachother.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OSB, as you know, does not like direct contact with water, especially at its edges. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Tables give me tensile strength of OSB few times smaller than wood. Can I replace 18mm x 36mm wooden beam safely with 2* 50mm strips of 22mm OSB screwed and/or glued together? That'd give me 50x44 &quot;beam&quot; section -- should be quite enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is still a sheet good. OSB is used as flooring but there is still a frame that it sits on. So as a sheet I would expect that it would bow over time across its length. 18mm is think so this might take a while but what you use it for would have a impact on that. I don't think you can compare laminated wood to a sheet good in terms of strength. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should OSB surface and edges be treated if I plan indoor use with no proximity of water. For it's tensile characteristics to remain same over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on what you mean by treated No there is no real need. OSB can be considered unsightly so people sometimes paint it when it is showing though. Depending on the quality and time some of the chips might break off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-02-17T17:10:18.173" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T17:10:18.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3315" CreationDate="2016-02-17T20:28:38.643" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Isn't OSB supposed to be more stable to elements comparing to wood? Isn't that what's all the adhesive in it is for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not be a wise-guy, but the adhesive is there to hold the little pieces of wood together.  Dimensional stability is a secondary and very desirable benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Tables give me tensile strength of OSB few times smaller than wood. Can I replace 18mm x 36mm wooden beam safely with 2* 50mm strips of 22mm OSB screwed and/or glued together? That'd give me 50x44 &quot;beam&quot; section -- should be quite enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that you are considering stiffeners of 18mmx36mm strips with the 36mm dimension vertical and the 18mm horizontal and, likewise, the 44mmx50mm OSB strips with the 50mm vertical and the 44mm horizontal.  (That's the way that you get maximum beam action.)  You would get comparable beam action with the OSB beam solution and the two pieces that make up your 44mmx50mm stiffeners can be screwed - it should not affect the stiffness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, when you first place stuff on the shelf, it visibly sags, then use more stiffeners, or deeper stiffeners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OSB comes in various stiffness depending on the glue and wood.  Compared to pine it will sag from about the same or up to twice as much.  I would assume that the stiffness varies with price. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also have an issue of attaching the stiffeners to the shelf.  Screwing or nailing the edges of the stiffeners to the shelf material would generally be discouraged, but they might hold well enough to hold the stiffeners in position.  Gluing OSB has serious problems as well - common woodworking glue has trouble adhering to the adhesives (think plastic resins and wax) that hold the OSB together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T20:28:38.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3316" CreationDate="2016-02-18T06:26:02.063" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hollow auger&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://pdfpiw.uspto.gov/.piw?PageNum=0&amp;amp;docid=00203384&amp;amp;IDKey=172148E7B57E%0D%0A&amp;amp;HomeUrl=http%3A%2F%2Fpatft.uspto.gov%2Fnetahtml%2FPTO%2Fpatimg.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;U.S. Patent 203,384&lt;/a&gt; is for a &quot;Hollow auger&quot; or more specifically for improvements to a hollow auger.  &quot;What's a hollow auger?&quot; you ask.  Well, as @Keshlam suggested it is a device for cutting tenons on chair rungs or spokes as demonstrated by a similar device on a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IVxo4qxq8jc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;You Tube&lt;/a&gt; video.  It's a device that, rather than drilling a hole, it drills what fits into a hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The patent claims that the improvement is that this version of the hollow auger is adjustable so as to &quot;obviate the necessity of using a separate auger for each sized tenon.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will leave it to @Matt to figure out exactly how this one works, but it will require a brace for turning the cutting mechanism and a vice for holding the workpiece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With tongue in cheek, I suggest that this device might also be an answer to my question from several months back: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1077/how-can-i-make-my-own-dowels&quot;&gt;How can I make my own dowels?&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T06:26:02.063" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3320" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3321" CreationDate="2016-02-18T11:41:26.810" Score="6" ViewCount="3858" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do my woodworking in a small basement, with medium-poor air circulation. I will probably end up buying an air filter (I'm looking at the Jet AFS-500) anyway, since it seems like a good idea for the dust my dust extraction misses.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see that that many of these systems allow the installation of active-charcoal filters, and I'm wondering if using such a filter will allow me to safely apply finishes in my basement workshop (brush or wipe, not spray)?  Are there any common finishing products which produce fumes that would not be handled by such a filter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1837" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-02-18T19:47:27.053" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T00:33:59.937" Title="Are active charcoal air filters effective against finishing fumes?" Tags="|finishing|safety|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3320" CreationDate="2016-02-18T13:13:42.937" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;All&quot; (like &quot;always&quot; or &quot;never&quot;) is generally a bad wording, since unless the question is &lt;em&gt;&quot;Do all people have to die?&quot;&lt;/em&gt;, the answer must obviously be &quot;no&quot;. There are very few absolutes in nature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in general, &lt;strong&gt;yes&lt;/strong&gt;, a coal filter will absorb fumes like solvents / paint thinner and other organic substances (like the ones that escape from PU coatings, or alcohols). It will not catch &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt;, but a reasonably high proportion (upwards of 99.9%).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;However,&lt;/strong&gt; in order to be reasonably safe, you should wear a mask &lt;em&gt;in addition&lt;/em&gt; to the air filter, as it will take some time and a few revolutions of the air volume in your shop for the filter to pick up the fumes, and you still inhale them while swinging your brush.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The air filter (or dust collection, likewise) is good at making the air breathable for when you come back after lunch or the next morning, but it's not sufficient while you are working and inhaling hazardous particles or chemicals as they're being generated and you're bent over with your nose close to the source. It's better than nothing, of course, but all by itself not sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I say &quot;mask&quot;, I mean something that looks &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wolkdirekt.com/images/280/3M6200/atemschutzmasken-arbeitsschutzbekleidung-3m-atemschutzmaske-halbmaske-nach-en-140.jpg&quot;&gt;like this&lt;/a&gt;. There exist different filters for these, and different normatives. &quot;SL&quot; is not optimal (designed for aerosols, but will also catch some gas) but should do (&quot;S&quot; &lt;em&gt;will not&lt;/em&gt; do!) but preferrably you want &quot;A1&quot; or &quot;A2&quot; which are suitable for organic gases with a &quot;normal&quot; boiling point and only differ in price and how many sigmas of absorption you get (price is not that much of a factor, so I'd go &quot;A2&quot; in any case). There's filters that combine A2 with E1 (acidic gases) and some combos that catch anorganic gases on top. I don't use these (you don't have chlorine gas in your shop, do you!).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For woodworking &lt;em&gt;dust&lt;/em&gt;, generally &quot;P1&quot; should be enough, &quot;P2&quot; catches stuff that you normally only get when soldering or laser-cutting... but alas, I'll also use the better one just in case.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There's filters that combine P and A, but I'm wary of these. Wouldn't want to wear out the coal filter while brathing &quot;only &quot; dust... but of course they're comfortable, one thing catches all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note that coal filters have a considerably limited life time, after which they will cease to absorb chemicals. Be absolutely positively sure to read the instructions and comply with them (that is, change filter after a said time), or  your &quot;safety&quot; equipment will eventually stop working without you being aware, leaving you a false sense of safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="135" LastEditorUserId="135" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T00:33:59.937" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T00:33:59.937" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3322" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-15T16:35:20.413" Score="5" ViewCount="2126" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a template and a router, and am told I need a plunge bit. If I put the template on top of the wood, how do I start the hole? Do I cut a hole in the wood to have a starting point then follow the pattern? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="mike barth" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-02-18T19:36:06.467" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T19:36:06.467" Title="How to start a cut when using router templates" Tags="|power-tools|router|router-bit|template|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3322" CreationDate="2016-02-15T16:52:57.950" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on the type of bit you are using. some bits can plunge by resting the edge of the router and letting it cut through. If there is a bearing or non cutting bottom drill a hole with a drill bit large enough to get started and have fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1841" OwnerDisplayName="Ed Beal" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T16:52:57.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3322" CreationDate="2016-02-15T17:46:27.683" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bit on the left has spiral flutes and a tapered end, so it can plunge (ie, you can press the board straight down over it and it will drill into the wood just like a drill bit).   The bit on the right will not, because it's square on the bottom and does not have a spiraled flute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nf28w.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nf28w.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;router bit comparison&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the article that is the source of the picture, with an explanation:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2014/12/router-mortising/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2014/12/router-mortising/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="alfreema" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T17:46:27.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3322" CreationDate="2016-02-18T19:35:47.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This can largely depend on your template. Are you going to be cutting through the wood making a complete cutout or are you making a recessed design? &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/3324/128&quot;&gt;alfreema's answer covers the bits that you be using in either case&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However you are not locked to just those tools. Your basic drill can get you started. Again, depending on your template, you can use something like a jigsaw to remove more of the waste. This has the advantage of clear more of the wood and putting less stress on the flute bits. Which are generally more expensive that a jigsaw blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't forget to clamp the template down as you will be putting pressure on it while you are moving around with the router. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T19:35:47.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3320" CreationDate="2016-02-18T21:13:45.803" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are active charcoal air filters effective against finishing fumes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if using such a filter will allow me to safely apply finishes in my basement workshop (brush or wipe, not spray)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are actually two very different questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is probably best answered no (some effect but without data to go on you can't rely on them). The second is obviously highly dependent on all the many variables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main variable is actually &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt;, since individual responses to VOCs vary a great deal — some people can work around varnish all day without apparent ill effect, some people the spirit vapours makes them feel sick in a very short time. In addition there is the type of finish or finishes (so different solvents or solvent mixtures), the amount of ventilation in the basement (total air exchange) and last but not least, the length and frequency of exposure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming no protection, if an average person doesn't finish too frequently in their basement and for not too long a period each time &lt;em&gt;in general&lt;/em&gt; they shouldn't have much to worry about from using varnish or shellac, but bear in mind that wiping varnish is much higher in spirits than regular varnish so the solvent vapours will be consequently higher (possibly double or triple).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Elsewhere in the house&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Last thing to bear in mind is how the air from the basement vents into the rest of the house, since the basement obviously doesn't exist in isolation. If you have central air then there's a possibility that some significant portion of the VOCs will end up in other rooms, or all rooms, of the house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very low levels at low frequency are usually nothing to worry about, but again people's responses vary. Obviously any babies or children must be considered, ideally their exposures should be as close to zero as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to be completely safe when using finishes to protect yourself from VOCs then you should wear a respirator with the appropriate solvent-rated cartridge fitted. Note these can have a surprisingly small usage window once the seal is broken &lt;em&gt;and continue to degrade even when you are not finishing&lt;/em&gt;, consequently some users store theirs in ziplock baggies between uses to protect them from air and extend their life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to work largely unprotected you should read up on some of the relevant numbers in MSDS safety documents, in particular PELs (Permitted Exposure Levels) and TWAs (Time-Weighted Averages). A starting point &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ilpi.com/msds/ref/pel.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No-VOC finishes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;There are some finishes to consider that have no VOCs and they would of course be the safest options. This would be principally BLO but also tung oil and walnut oil, as well as a soap finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wax may seem to be no-VOC options but paste waxes are made soft with the addition of some spirits so they do give off a little solvent vapour, but it is very little and usually nothing to concern yourself with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T21:13:45.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2968" CreationDate="2016-02-19T03:14:23.750" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a company sells a bit that is unsafe and you get hurt I am sure there's a few hundred lawyers that will take your case so you and them can retire. Just my opinion but have never had a problem with one coming apart on both soft wood and hard wood. Have even used carbide bits to shape aluminum with welding gloves and a face mask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1841" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T03:14:23.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="798" CreationDate="2016-02-19T03:57:51.320" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you search Youtube for split top roubo benches you will find many examples of this bench feature in use.  The insert board is loose in the gap and designed to be flush when oriented with one side up and as a bench stop when reversed so that the other side of the insert board is up.  The insert gap provides space in which two bench slabs can expand towards the middle while keeping the outside edges firmly anchored and flush with the legs.  This flush leg/top feature is very useful for clamping wood to the sides and top.  The center infill board is often made of two pieces of 1/2&quot; thick continuous wood with a center 1/2&quot; spacer.  This creates long slits in which you can place chisels, saws and other tools while working, a much better option than having them roll off the top.  Finally, if the center insert is removed you have a 1 1/2&quot; gap in which you can pass bar clamps to clamp something down to the top slabs from the center.  This is a much better option than drilling more dog or hold down holes for rarely needed clamping positions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T03:57:51.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2968" CreationDate="2016-02-19T13:30:05.267" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A router bit should have some information laser-engraved in its shank. Among these &lt;em&gt;at the very least&lt;/em&gt; the shank diameter, maximum speed, and MAN (or not).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Some manufacturers (Trend, notably) have them written on the cardboard in the box, often in a &quot;general&quot; form such as 28,000RPM up to 30mm,  24,000RPM up to 30mm diameter, etc. (presumably they're laser-engraved too, but the writing on Trend bits is too small for me to decipher!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bit that doesn't provide such information should go right into the trash can as it is not possible to operate it safely. Seeing how my life depends on that safe operation, that's a must for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shank diameter is not as obvious as you may believe. 12mm and 1/2'' shanks look quite similar, and 6mm and 1/4'' shanks are virtually indistinguishable just from holding them in your hand and looking at them.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;However, clamping the respective slightly-too-small shank in the slightly-too-large collet will result in the bit slipping and possibly come hurling through the room. Clamping the respective slightly-too-large shank in the slightly-too-small collet will cause the collet to turn into shrapnels at an unpredictable time later. Neither one is a fun condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MAN is important if you intend to use the bit in a plunge router. It means the bit has a certain maximum clearance behind the edge, so it will only bite at most so and so deep into the material with each turn. That limits the amount of locking and kickback and determines whether it is reasonably safe to operate the tool manually (MAN). Lacking the inscription MAN, you may &lt;strong&gt;only&lt;/strong&gt; ever use it in a router table (and forcibly controlled with a guide so the rotating bit won't kick the piece of wood out of your hands and into your genitals).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of whether a bit is &quot;suitable&quot; for manual operation, I consider diameters greater 20mm a &lt;em&gt;&quot;Meh, if I can't avoid&quot;&lt;/em&gt; thing, and diameters greater 35mm a &lt;em&gt;&quot;Dude, you got death wish?&quot;&lt;/em&gt; thing. Large bits become steadily more dangerous with increasing diameter, they belong in a router table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bits with approx. 140mm diameter like the one in the image probably don't fit into anything that you're likely to own anyway (they sure don't fit into my router, no 20mm collets available, that's an entirely different class of machine). But even if they did fit, I would think twice whether I'd want to use such a thing. 50-55mm is probably the largest diameter (profile cutters) that most people use regularly, though I've used 70mm, which is intimidating enough (and at least 89mm &lt;em&gt;exists&lt;/em&gt; with 1/2'' shank, such as the T-C170AX1-2TC -- I've never used such a beast).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider that centrifugal force as well as cutting speed goes up with diameter, so quite possibly your router cannot even turn slow enough to operate safely (my router can just about rotate slow enough to satisfy 70mm, possibly 85mm profile cutters which usually allow 11,000 -- the ultra-large diameters often only allow 6,000RPM).  Turning slower also means that your motor must be considerably stronger. If you have less than 2kW, you can pretty much forget running large bits at low speeds, it will be not a lot of fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="135" LastEditorUserId="135" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T22:37:43.017" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T22:37:43.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3330" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3333" CreationDate="2016-02-19T15:27:58.087" Score="11" ViewCount="859" Body="&lt;p&gt;My terminology might be off as I am basing it on the image below&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KvXbD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KvXbD.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many traditional bits &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3316/what-is-this-brace-bit-cutter-tool-exactly-and-how-is-it-used&quot;&gt;and tools&lt;/a&gt; used the tang style end. I am trying to figure out why that was the standard at the time. Was it power tools that changed the game and allowed the cylindrical and hex tang styles? I would have assumed those much easier to manufacture, given their uniformity, then that of the tapered tang you see above. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One obvious thing solved by the tang is that you don't risk the bit coming out of the tool when you are pulling out of the work. Was that the problem that couldn't be fixed until the advent of modern power tools?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could understand that just using a cylindrical tang, like you see on modern drill bits, would be difficult. Possibly due to a tools ability to bite the bit. Or is this something like Beta and VHS where one format just won out over the other where the product itself was not the ultimate determining factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T16:40:55.827" Title="What drove the design for the traditional tang?" Tags="|hand-tools|tools|traditional-techniques|history|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3331" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-19T16:10:03.240" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T16:10:03.240" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T16:10:03.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3332" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-19T16:10:03.240" Score="0" Body="Questions pertaining to the history of woodworking: study of terminology, techniques and tools" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T16:10:03.240" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T16:10:03.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3330" CreationDate="2016-02-19T16:29:22.790" Score="12" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am trying to figure out why that was the standard at the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if this is a chicken/egg issue, but I think the answer has to do with a tool called a &lt;strong&gt;brace&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first braces were no more than curved pieces of wood with a tapered metal inlet at one end that received different bits.  The bit was held in via the wedging action of the tapered end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gTyOV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gTyOV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;wooden brace&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodnews/january_2007/tool_slideshow.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As brace designs evolved, the ends began to resemble more of the chuck-type designs we're familiar with today, though not matching the typical &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jacobschuck.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jacobs chuck&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kmvs3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kmvs3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;chuck&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://sites.google.com/site/traditionalwoodworkingjjg/tools&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These types of brace jaws are pretty forgiving in terms of sloppiness of the tapered tang end of the drill bit.  They are able to clamp onto a fairly wide variety of tang ends with no issue in use.  This is very useful when the majority of your bits are hand-forged and have no real uniformity, precision, or universal standards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, hand braces are very forgiving in terms of bit centeredness and eccentricity.  Since you're using arm power to turn the bit, you automatically correct for any off-centered behavior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One additional thing - the bit you have in your question has a lead screw (a.k.a. snail) at the end that helps draw the bit into the wood.  This only works well at low RPM, and can be downright dangerous at higher RPM if the bit grabs the wood and whips it out of control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;One obvious thing solved by the tang is that you don't risk the bit coming out of the tool when you are pulling out of the work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the earlier years (before the chuck-type jaws), this could be a problem, since the bit was merely held by wedging.  In the later years, you are correct, the chuck jaws would help avoid this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once power tools started taking over, the circular shank became more popular since it was easier to manufacture.  Jacobs chucks work best with a circular bit and are able to firmly clamp a cylindrical shaft very well.  The tapered tang ends do not work in a Jacobs chuck at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Minor eccentricities of rotating parts are a major issue for power tools since they operate at high velocity/RPM.  The previous hand-forged brace bits with their tapered tangs would vibrate like crazy and skitter around the workpiece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T16:40:55.827" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T16:40:55.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3334" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-19T20:57:27.600" Score="2" ViewCount="1000" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a router table cabinet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to decide what surface to put on the topI have extra 3/4&quot; MDF board which can be used for the top. I would apply either a laminate sheet or 3/16 masonite hardboard panel screwed down down over the MDF.  While I know the laminate would create a durable surface, it is only available in large sheets and would be a bit of a hassle to install. On the other hand I have extra masonite which I have already used as a replaceable surface on a torsion grid table. Since it screws down, it can easily be replaced if damaged.  Although it is lying very flat on my assembly table, I wonder if anyone sees any potential problems with such a surface on a router table. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2016-02-20T02:35:28.277" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T01:58:50.130" Title="What top surface approach is best for a router plate in a custom cabinet?" Tags="|router-table|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3335" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-20T00:10:16.827" Score="3" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to put a new floor in a tag-a-long trailer. I would like it to be light but strong and I plan on using Douglas fir 1 1/2&quot; by 1 1/2&quot; as my floor joists and to be spaced apart 12&quot; with a 5/8&quot; ply on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trailer is 13' long and it is 7 1/2' wide. the largest span would be 2'. In total the weight would be 2000 lbs. Yes, there is a steel frame and no, the wood I would be putting in will not be exposed like the original.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are your thoughts on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1844" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-02-21T21:53:19.927" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T21:53:19.927" Title="Strength of 1 1/2&quot; by 1 1/2&quot; Douglas fir" Tags="|wood|wood-selection|design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3336" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-20T02:40:11.240" Score="3" ViewCount="952" Body="&lt;p&gt;I plan on installing a router plate in a custom cabinet top for my shop. I can either route the edges to the depth of the plate to create a recess for a flush table top/plate surface or use plate leveling screws.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1NaNI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1NaNI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Kreg router plate leveling screws&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a bit concerned about the leveling plate screws staying firmly attached to the underside of MDF board with the stress from the router operating and only having support at the corners, whereas the recess ledge design will provide uniform support. The leveling screws will offer finer tuned height adjustment to match the cabinet top surface but I wonder just how much finesse is needed. I have read of people adjusting the top late alignment to several thousandths of an inch and wonder if that is necessary or merely obsessive?  It seems that gluing some thin cardboard or other material to the underside of the plate would also serve as adequate shims. IF you have a router cabinet, what has been your experience been?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW do you screw down the plate or simply let it rest in the top cutout?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-02-21T03:21:55.983" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T04:17:28.257" Title="How to mount a router plate in a cabinet top?" Tags="|router-table|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3334" CreationDate="2016-02-20T10:42:34.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I wonder if anyone sees any potential problems with [a Masonite surface] on a router table. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. Many router table builds I've seen posted online use hardboard as the working surface and they appear to work well for their users. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may not be the 'best' surface but that is a subjective determination for every builder — some people insist on the slipperiness of a phenolic-resin laminate, and it is both hard and resilient as well so durability is excellent. In terms of toughness and durability though hardboard can be more than good enough, as the long service life of many sacrificial hardboard tops on workbenches testifies to. But equally many who have built tables from MDF use it as the final working surface (sometimes without any treatment, but others shellac or varnish and/or wax it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; throughout here when I say hardboard I am referring to tempered hardboard, which as a rule is quite a bit tougher and more durable than the untempered version, and also has superior slip characteristics. However untempered hardboard with a couple of coats of varnish on it can be quite similar once in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-02-20T10:42:34.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3335" CreationDate="2016-02-20T12:56:25.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based upon your description it appears that the trailer has some sort of metal floor framing at 2' centers In which case the 1 1/2&quot; x 1 1/2&quot; and sheathing members are not carrying a substantial structural load to the frame.  From your description it appears that the trailer is for living space, not cargo so your design loads max out around 50 PSF +/-.  Your sizing appears to be adequate.  If you are replacing an existing floor, evaluate the sizing for the current one.  Was it adequate? For this application pine or fir would be adequate, although I would consider pressure treated lumber since it will be exposed to temperature variations and possible condensation as a result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-02-20T12:56:25.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3134" CreationDate="2016-02-20T16:57:49.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you are allowing for the loads applied by the users.  People applying weight (sitting, standing , dining) will apply lateral forces, perpendicular to the cross sectional strength of your leg orientation.  You are concerned about &quot;wobble-free&quot; WHEN BEING USED.  You definitely need more bracing to resist side to side wobble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1848" LastActivityDate="2016-02-20T16:57:49.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3336" CreationDate="2016-02-20T17:07:56.020" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Permanent mount?  Route it in, get as obsessive as you want on the depth adjustment and epoxy it in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use leveling screws as well, again if permanent , I would apply thread lock on the final stage of alignment to keep secure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not recommend &quot;cardboard&quot; shims, it will continue to compress over time.  Use sheet metal, foil, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1848" LastActivityDate="2016-02-20T17:07:56.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3336" CreationDate="2016-02-20T17:15:43.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This doesn't have to be complicated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rockler's basic table just uses an opening routed into the top a bit deeper than the plate's thickness, with four set screws to lift the corners back up to level with the top. Obviously there's a cutout in the center of this for the router body to drop through. This does require that the table top be thick enough to support the set screws, but that's a reasonable idea for rigidity anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[ &lt;strong&gt;Clarification&lt;/strong&gt;: The plate is actually supported at the corners by screws. Back them out slightly to raise it, turn them forward to lower it. Once the level is set, you can optionally secure it down too, if your router permits above-the-plate bit replacement or if you have an adapter which permits that.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course one can go even simpler and just mount the router directly to the bottom of a well supported piece of sheet goods and skip the plate, depending on what you're doing and how much precision you need and how frustrated you get reaching under the table to make adjustments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-02-21T03:19:51.080" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T03:19:51.080" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3334" CreationDate="2016-02-20T20:14:44.840" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultra-high-molecular-weight_polyethylene&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;UHMW polyethylene&lt;/a&gt; sheets. It's the next best thing in providing a durable, smooth surface right after PTFE, but costs only about 1/4 as much. You can usually get it in white (natural color), green, and black.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I like green which gives the table a very nice appearance (I'd abstain from using black in fear of it possibly staining wood, although UHMW-PE is quite durable).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can probably just use MDF, too, and it &quot;will work&quot; -- but I like the fact that you have very low friction sliding your wood over the PE. Low friction is more important than &quot;super hard&quot; if you ask me (you're not going to use the router table as anvil, are you!).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Accidentally put a piece of wood onto your nice shiny table with wood glue running out? Which you shouldn't have done, but which happened anyway? Well guess what, unlike MDF, the PE couldn't care less. That's true for most chemicals, by the way. Finding a chemical that will piss off a PE surface is really hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure to pay attention to &lt;em&gt;what exactly&lt;/em&gt; you buy, often when you enter UHMW-PE in a search box, you are offered HD-PE. Those are &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; the same, HD-PE is much inferior, pretty soft, and it will easily scratch (and rub off, which is unpleasing!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can cut PE easily (with a sharp knife if nothing else, but a saw will do just fine, of course), and it drills nicely and will play along well with the router in case you want to inlay a C-rail or do some other fancy stuff -- turn down speed and preferrably use a bit with one edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unluckily, thanks to its special properties, UHMW-PE is also &lt;em&gt;a real bitch&lt;/em&gt; to glue. Not only is it almost perfectly smooth, but the material also has a very low energy surface. I'm not a chemistry professor, so I can't explain what it means in a scientific sense. In &lt;em&gt;practical&lt;/em&gt; terms it means that no glue whatsoever will stick to it unless you rub it with a special activator first (some people say sulfuric or phosphoric acid and heating will do as activator, but I haven't tried that).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even after activation, only few glues will really hold reliably, cyanocrylate and polyolefin glues being the primary choices. I recommend adding a few small counter-sunk screws to give the sheet a bit of permanent push-down, just to be 110% sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's people who recommend phenolic resin coated plywood as surface for router tables. I've not tried that, but it might be an alternative. Harder than PE, but less smooth (and less cool looking).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="135" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-02-21T01:58:50.130" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T01:58:50.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3344" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-21T11:55:07.817" Score="2" ViewCount="2215" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may be off-topic here, not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My college background is math and physics, but I'm hoping to switch gears and build my own home and live off the land. So, I've been studying and reading up on timber framing, building smaller projects and working out a detailed house design in SketchUp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much of the minor carpentry, the joinery, the tools, etc., are becoming comfortable. The big grey area left is the major carpentry -- mostly structural engineering stuff: ensuring the house will be stable, handle wind and snow loads, uses the right woods...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for resources. One of my classes studied the Euler beam equation for a bit, and I would like to do something on a comparable technical level: I want to go through detailed calculations and know, from first principles, how big the posts need to be for a given room's framing, what the maximum safe spans are, how much stress and strain the wood will be receiving, which woods have what strengths... I've seen some example calculations in various timber framing forums online, but a lot of it seems &lt;em&gt;ad hoc&lt;/em&gt; and not very systematic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What books and materials do professional building engineers study from?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, I want to put myself through an engineering program for building a timber frame house. Since I already have degrees in comparable subjects, I don't want to have to staff this out to an engineer (although, having one check the final design isn't a bad idea.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1059" LastEditorUserId="1059" LastEditDate="2016-02-21T13:05:54.577" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T23:21:56.157" Title="Structural engineering with wood: determining post size, span, etc, for a timber frame house" Tags="|wood|wood-selection|design|strength|stability|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="16" ClosedDate="2016-02-24T03:35:45.593" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3345" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3346" CreationDate="2016-02-21T15:17:30.890" Score="6" ViewCount="1087" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought this wooden sculpture from Mexico:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X98nX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X98nX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;wooden sculpture&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am worried that it will eventually give out to the elements and start to show wear and tear. What are the recommended ways to preserve this art work? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1852" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-02-21T18:05:26.517" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T02:19:34.533" Title="How can I preserve wooden sculptures indoors?" Tags="|wood-repair|carving|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3345" CreationDate="2016-02-21T17:14:14.167" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wow, that is a wonderful piece of art!  I assume that this will be displayed inside in which case the 'elements' will consist of temperature, dust, handling, and light.  Temperature-wise the piece will do well in a residential setting, especially if the space is air conditioned (more consistent temperature and humidity which can affect the wood and could even split it if it was too green when made. Generally avoid rapid changes in its environment. If dust and handling are a concern, consider displaying it in a glass case. This will also have the affect enhancing the drama in displaying it.  Finally, keep it out of direct sunlight to avoid ultraviolet light which can change the color of certain woods and paints. You can use feature lighting, but not too close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T17:14:14.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3344" CreationDate="2016-02-22T15:03:45.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While there are plenty of reference books available on how to do it, remember that every structure is unique.  Your natural inclination will be to do something special and this is where you could omit something important. There is much more than simple span calculations. There are lateral loads transferring throughout the structure brought on by wind loads or other conditions resulting from the specific design. Your building must resist all the twists, uplifts, point loads, and movement forces it is subjected to.  As an architect I have designed many buildings and know a great deal about structural design, but I never complete a design without at least sitting down with a structural engineer and reviewing the entire plan, so I definitely recommend you do so for your design. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that your building will utilize 'western framing' techniques, the gold standard for residential construction for the last 70 years or so.  There are bound to be many books that discuss this, but I learned by doing it.  I spent several summers as a young man working on a home construction crew.  There are lots of subtle rules and most good framing contractors know them instinctively.  If you have the opportunity to actually apprentice under a skilled older carpenter for a while you will learn many of the subtle steps and details that have been mastered in the trades over decades.  It is not rocket science, but it is also not always obvious in a book why something is done a certain way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked on Amazon and there are plenty of titles under the category of Western Framing.  I have not read them so cannot recommend their thoroughness.  Look for ones with an author who has plenty of experience in the field.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One more thing.  I know from personal experience that framing a home is not a one man operation.  You will need a crew of at least 2-3 men.  Consider making one of them an experienced carpenter, one who can lead the project. By the time you have finished your home, you will know a great deal more than you would from reading about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T15:03:45.660" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3344" CreationDate="2016-02-22T17:59:41.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Designing a house is a complicated problem. Normally builders learn by experience and start from established designs. There are a lot of problems that cannot be solved just by using a simple equation. Only long experience is sufficient to know. If you make a new design, the likelihood will be that, unless the design is very simple, some error will be made which you will not realize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T17:59:41.307" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3336" CreationDate="2016-02-22T20:36:28.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am a bit concerned about the leveling plate screws staying firmly attached to the underside of MDF board with the stress from the router operating and only having support at the corners&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I too was concerned with this.  I sandwiched a piece of plywood between the MDF&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EOpuW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EOpuW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost five years later it's still going strong.  You can see some other pictures of my table here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://flic.kr/s/aHsjwapfqK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://flic.kr/s/aHsjwapfqK&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1112" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T20:36:28.357" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3345" CreationDate="2016-02-23T00:13:35.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Above advice is sound, but depending on where in the world you are woodworm and other insects could launch attacks. A proprietory wood preservative could be a good precaution BUT...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They almost all darken the wood, at least to start with, and &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be very careful applying it (try on a concealed surface 1st) as they are often solvent based and could ruin the painted/stained areas.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1859" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-02-23T02:19:34.533" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T02:19:34.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3353" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-23T00:42:26.243" Score="7" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;The majority of all my work has used conventional wood glues with an occasional application of gorilla glue for certain exterior situations.  I confess that I know little about hide glue and its application. Can anyone shed some light on how and when to best apply it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T15:47:42.443" Title="What are advantages of hide glue and when should I use it?" Tags="|glue|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3354" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-23T00:48:33.807" Score="-2" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure how you want me to re-word my question. Based on the title of the forum I figured I could ask for direction for a newby to look for help getting started in woodworking. Maybe I picked the wrong site. Is this just a place to boast about what you built?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm new to cabinet making. I would like to build a cabinet in my workshop with drawers and doors with shelves inside. Where can I look to find plans for constructing a cabinet frame from scratch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1860" LastEditorUserId="1860" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T00:28:58.243" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T00:28:58.243" Title="DIY woodshop cabinets" Tags="|cabinetry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-02-23T04:26:29.050" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3355" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-23T00:52:48.403" Score="8" ViewCount="7104" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning a new workbench and have a bit of a dilemma.  While many home shops I have seen on youtube videos utilize the garage (think of all those displaced, cold cars), I have seized our home's basement.  I am retired now and intend to use this new roubo style bench for many years, but someday it will need to be moved upstairs and out.  The problem is that the 4&quot; hard maple top reaches towards 200 lbs. and the legs etc push another 75 lbs +/-. I thought it might be a good idea to have the legs be detachable.  On the other hand, I want this bench to be a monolith for hand planing &amp;amp; etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question then is would an unglued mortise and tenon table top mount be sturdy enough.  I could supplement this with some lag bolts through the leg top supports.  There is a lot of info on the web regarding how to design them, but not a lot of feedback on how benches performed over time.  If you have a sturdy workbench how is the top mounted and how has it handled heavy handwork?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-02-23T03:54:41.257" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T20:00:51.227" Title="Mounting the top for a new workbench" Tags="|joinery|workbench|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3354" CreationDate="2016-02-23T01:06:52.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest you take a look at a few youtube videos on sites like &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stumpynubs: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCstwpLSByklww1YojZN-KiQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCstwpLSByklww1YojZN-KiQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Wood WHisperer: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCKp44bWWZIiOPShPN_ytShw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCKp44bWWZIiOPShPN_ytShw&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Down to Earth Wood Works : &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCI5vz5Jl1tFCPkGyHMT1y9Q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCI5vz5Jl1tFCPkGyHMT1y9Q&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each will have similar projects and offer download plans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If might also suggest that you take a crack at making your own plans.  IF you are not familiar with it check out 'Sketchup Make' (free version @ &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sketchup.com/products/sketchup-pro/new-in-2016?gclid=CjwKEAiAgKu2BRDu1OGw3-KXokwSJAB_Yy2QJzGC6_HNK0vKWoQd9FKB1V4jWc9Q2W6a0FLvmN-W4BoCajjw_wcB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sketchup.com/products/sketchup-pro/new-in-2016?gclid=CjwKEAiAgKu2BRDu1OGw3-KXokwSJAB_Yy2QJzGC6_HNK0vKWoQd9FKB1V4jWc9Q2W6a0FLvmN-W4BoCajjw_wcB&lt;/a&gt;).  It is a three dimensional drawing program and you can make your own plan based upon the plans you get on these sites. They have an online library called the 3D warehouse which is accesible from within the program. Many users have uploaded their own models there. Drawing it up yourself or modifying these models will quickly help you work out and understand the details. Although it has a little learning curve to begin with, it will quickly become one of your best tools.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T01:06:52.630" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3355" CreationDate="2016-02-23T04:02:11.200" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are more elaborate answers to be sure but tusk and tenon and rising dovetail joinery would lend very well to such a design. I found a perfect image of what I was thinking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://villagecarpenter.blogspot.ca/2012/03/roubo-another-progress-shot.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ep4uH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Roubo with tusk tenons&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://villagecarpenter.blogspot.ca/2012/03/roubo-another-progress-shot.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;villagecarpenter.blogspot.ca&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tusk and tenons are known for both their strength, when done well of course, and ease of assembly and disassembly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now this won't do much for how the legs are connected to the top but the above image also shows rising dovetails. Weight of the top should keep it in place and the risers should allow for disassembly again. Should be able to take that apart several times and still join it back together snugly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shouldn't need lag bolts if you do something like the above. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T20:00:51.227" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T20:00:51.227" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3336" CreationDate="2016-02-23T04:17:28.257" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a kreg router table insert plate with no adjustment screws for height and didn't screw it down. Its working fine so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T04:17:28.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3258" CreationDate="2016-02-23T04:40:57.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had good luck suspending brushes in solvent as well. I typically hang them from a nail so the bristles will not get deformed and lower the brush 3/4 of the way into the solvent to prevent mucking up the roots of the bristles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T04:40:57.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3269" CreationDate="2016-02-23T04:51:35.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From a safety perspective, I turn off the band saw and table saw between cuts. Most other tools I am fine to leave running. Especially drill press, sanders, scroll saw, and other smaller tools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen others leave a table saw running while setting up cuts but this looks dangerous. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The motors don't matter. It's about safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T04:51:35.523" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3361" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3369" CreationDate="2016-02-23T05:01:00.693" Score="5" ViewCount="340" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to teach woodworking to small groups on the weekends. These groups tend to have some basic tool knowledge, so we aren't starting from absolute scratch, but sometimes its close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past I have used bandsaw boxes, finger bowls, and pen turning. Does anyone have additional suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-02-28T05:10:26.440" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T05:10:26.440" Title="One day projects for wood working fundamentals" Tags="|community-project|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-02-24T03:12:43.620" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3362" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3383" CreationDate="2016-02-23T05:40:06.247" Score="4" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our community workshop router table also ends up being a work bench much of the time. A router has been broken in the past by someone accidentally knocking a screw in the hole which landed in the router motor housing, then later turning on the router - crunch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since then I have used a small wood cutout with a magnet on one side to prevent this happening again, but its difficult to take on and off and is easy to lose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically the goal is to easily/quickly plug the hole, make it removable, and ideally keep the plug from being lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have a better suggestion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="1861" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T02:36:34.403" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T02:41:12.250" Title="How do you prevent screws or other metal from falling in the hole on your router table?" Tags="|power-tools|router|router-table|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27" CreationDate="2016-02-23T06:25:18.003" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I try to See what the saw is doing with each motion. I used to just saw away and not really see what was going on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main problem I see is people tilting the saw in the z-plane as they cut. Keeping the saw blade straight up-and-down or orthogonal to the piece being cut has helped me cut straighter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="1861" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T17:55:09.867" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T17:55:09.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3364" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3368" CreationDate="2016-02-23T06:37:41.923" Score="1" ViewCount="1193" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built something that is essentially this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y1Ieh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y1Ieh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it has beaten itself to death, almost falling apart. The original cart, like the one in picture, is 2x4 construction, uses allthread to spin on, and door-slide-locks to secure the tool up or down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) What is a good hardware for the pivot mechanism of the flip cart?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) What is a good securing hardware with less play and perhaps more robust in general? (the slide-locks were jangly over time)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Any good ideas on making a heavier-duty cart? Like the one in the picture, mine used 2x lumber and is racking to the point of falling over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2019-10-24T20:58:13.497" LastActivityDate="2019-11-22T02:07:45.623" Title="Flip-Cart for Wood Planer - Best Hardware and Construction" Tags="|workbench|thickness-planer|storage|racking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3365" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3492" CreationDate="2016-02-23T06:45:48.263" Score="-1" ViewCount="305" Body="&lt;p&gt;I participate and organize within a makerspace. Though I read up on woodworking and have some familiarity, I don't always remember details myself as woodworking isn't my main focus. This seems to be an issue for other members of our space too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of our top problems is people using the wrong blade type for the wrong cutting action due to lack of experience and taking a best guess or thinking they know when they have misremembered. (such as rip-cut blades vs cross-cut blades)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to have reference materials to hang on the wall as a quick guide to remind people of different types of blades, show what they look like, and their various uses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a collection or resource for some good graphical guides or signs that can be hung up as a quick reference for types of saw blades?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do people have such graphics they can post here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="1861" LastEditDate="2016-02-27T06:34:59.007" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T06:34:59.007" Title="Is there a collection of good reference signage for saw blade types?" Tags="|table-saw|band-saw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2016-03-09T03:50:30.773" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3366" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-23T09:07:02.160" Score="5" ViewCount="2111" Body="&lt;p&gt;I make windows and doors, and a great way to make sure that they open and close smoothly is to use silicone lubricant spray on the rubber weatherseals. While silicone lube is fine to use on painted surfaces, it does affect any repainting - the paint can't adhere to the silicone and causes &quot;fish-eyes&quot; or &quot;pinholes&quot; in the paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We use a water-based, micro-porous exterior paint. I've asked our supplier and they said:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;That is a bit tricky, as we don’t want to use any solvent chemicals to remove the silicone, as it could remove some of the top coat too. We don’t mention any specific product in our maintenance guide, but we do recommend cleaning the surface with soapy (fairy) warm water to remove the environmental debris building up in the joints and on horizontal surfaces. This could partially remove the silicone lube, but it may still leave behind traces which will cause pin holes if recoated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody have any good techniques for removing silicone? I'm thinking of telling customers to clean with soapy water, lightly sand and then clean again. Would that do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course I could stop using silicone spray but the stuff works &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;miracles&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; on sticking doors etc. so ideally I'd find a solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also open to suggestions of alternative lubricants I could use which would achieve the same thing (not damaging paintwork or rubbers whilst being effective) but not affect paint and/or be easier to clean off fully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Just to be absolutely clear, silicone lube has been sprayed on fully finished joinery (water-based paint), and I want to know how best to clean it off when repainting (which is required every few years as a maintenance operation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastEditorUserId="272" LastEditDate="2016-02-25T15:58:20.403" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T12:36:49.227" Title="Removing silicone lubricant spray from painted timber finished with water-based paint" Tags="|finishing|joinery|paint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3355" CreationDate="2016-02-23T14:07:37.023" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Paul Sellers' blog he describes &lt;a href=&quot;https://paulsellers.com/tag/building-a-workbench/?orderby=&amp;amp;order=asc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Building a Workbench&lt;/a&gt; which uses a drop-in wedge to make it possible to separate worktop from legs for transportation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5zECk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5zECk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;em&gt;image by permission from paulsellers.com. &lt;a href=&quot;https://paulsellers.com/2012/06/making-the-workbench-11/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Paul Sellers - How to Build a Workbench – Apron Recesses (part11)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sort of wedge is self-tightening and produces a very rigid and stable workbench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;On my benches I don’t rely only on the housing dado. I want something that locks and continues to lock the legs into the apron housings and never turns lose. I also want my bench to be disassembled for moving from time to time. A wedged housing dado resolves the issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="158" LastEditorUserId="158" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T09:49:55.340" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T09:49:55.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3364" CreationDate="2016-02-23T14:34:12.867" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The easiest improvement I can think of is to insert a metal sleeve (or bushing) in the opening for the axle. This should eliminate a lot of the wear and tear caused by the bolt axle on the wood in the opening. I have used copper pipe or electrical conduit inserts with success. If you rotate the table a lot, then a more precision fitting would be desirable. I do not know of a ready made item but I found this ball bearing pivot online (search for &quot;ball bearing and axle&quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O0Q9x.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O0Q9x.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To mount it to the table top I would suggest a short section of steel angle with a hole to slide the axle into. Then secure the ball bearing housing into an opening in the wood secured with epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rather than the slide locks I would suggest wood plates mounted to the inside face of the leg to that screw to the leg using threaded inserts.  The table top would simply rest on the shelf this creates.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uev3L.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uev3L.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The table in the picture can rack because there is inadequate lateral support.  If you used full height plywood panels at the side glued and screwed into dadoes and similar 6-8&quot; aprons at front and back then the entire frame would be much more rigid.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2019-11-22T02:07:45.623" LastActivityDate="2019-11-22T02:07:45.623" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3361" CreationDate="2016-02-23T14:48:22.027" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the best project is a simple rectangular box.  You can teach good tablesaw and hand work practices as well as multiple joining techniques in a project that is completed in a couple classes and like your current suggestions gives them a useful home item or gift. You will also address mortices, dados, and techniques for mounting hinges. A simple finger joint or miters with splines box should do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k8GDF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k8GDF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wndi3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wndi3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T14:48:22.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3353" CreationDate="2016-02-23T15:47:42.443" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;My only experience is with liquid hide glue.  It is also available as a solid that needs &quot;assembled&quot; before use.  I believe it's biggest benefit is it reversible.  You can read more about it here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/best-wood-gluefranklin-liquid-hide-glue&quot;&gt;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/best-wood-gluefranklin-liquid-hide-glue&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1112" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T15:47:42.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1708" CreationDate="2016-02-23T17:12:36.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made several rough projects where, just for practice, I used pocket screws, including a couple sawhorses, a little outside bench for taking off shoes, and my own workbench.  Each time, I actually just used regular drywall screws instead of the Kreg screws, for convenience and (a very little bit of) money saving -- not because they're at all the right screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I really had to do with the drywall screws that I wouldn't have had to do with the right screws was to pull the joint &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; tightly together before screwing.  This is because the pressure on the screw to start tapping wants to push the joint apart -- even with a real Kreg screw.  But then, the threads of a drywall screw run all the way to the head, so the threads near the head grab the first board, and don't let it pull snug against the second board.  This is why Kreg screws have the partially unthreaded shank; that unthreaded part slips right through the first board, so the joint pulls snug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, for a rough project like your workbench, you can use any screw that fits if you're willing to clamp the joint very tightly before screwing.  And while the self-tapping feature and wide washer on Kreg screws are very nice features, the one feature I would really look for if I couldn't find Kreg screws is that partially unthreaded shank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1863" LastEditorUserId="1863" LastEditDate="2016-02-23T17:36:05.727" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T17:36:05.727" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3372" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3376" CreationDate="2016-02-23T17:22:02.560" Score="6" ViewCount="4586" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been considering building an outdoor bench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is a good wood glue for outdoor wood furniture?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="1861" LastEditDate="2016-02-23T18:10:05.937" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T18:19:51.283" Title="What is the appropriate wood glue for outdoor wood furniture?" Tags="|glue|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3373" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3375" CreationDate="2016-02-23T17:31:16.903" Score="5" ViewCount="5541" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a laser cutter for some woodworking projects. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1/8&quot; (3mm) baltic birch seems to be the standard wood for doing projects with this. But when I buy this wood, it is often somewhat warped and doesn't lay evenly in the cut bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I buy this at Woodcraft if it matters. Here is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodcraft.com/product/131138/baltic-birch-plywood-3mm18-x-12-x-12.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a link for the product I typically purchase&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have considered just stacking heavy things on it against the ground to flatten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I flatten this thin wood back out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any tricks to storing such wood so that it stays flat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="1861" LastEditDate="2016-02-23T18:06:09.303" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T11:40:01.573" Title="How to flatten 1/8&quot; Baltic Birch Plywood for laser cutting?" Tags="|plywood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3374" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3377" CreationDate="2016-02-23T18:03:33.807" Score="5" ViewCount="1679" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a set of large wood chisels given to me by a person that has never used them and doesn't know their history.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I attempted to turn a small test bowl with them, but had tear-out type issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I tell if the wood turning chisels are sharp?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2020-12-14T07:48:34.097" Title="How can I tell if wood turning (lathe) chisels are sharp?" Tags="|lathe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3373" CreationDate="2016-02-23T18:11:04.820" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How can I flatten this thin wood back out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a chance that you won't be able to do this to your satisfaction. When sheet goods become warped due to poor storage conditions or bad stacking, or a combination of the two, they tend to take 'a set' which apparently can be impossible to completely remove. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some improvement is certainly achievable, I've done this successfully myself on warped material, but I don't think you can get thin plywood like this back to absolutely flat which you may require for this application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be possible to flatten plywood by dampening the material, in a high-humidity environment rather than by wetting directly, and then press it flat until it is dry. This works with some other board materials. But the pressure or weight needed would probably be outside the range of what you could rig up as it is in the range of hundreds of kilos per square metre at minimum and possibly a few tons (as you can achieve in an old cast iron book press). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are there any tricks to storing such wood so that it stays flat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Storing it horizontally on a dead-flat surface is really most of it as you'd probably guess, but the thicker you stack the more likely minor thickness imperfections in each sheet can accumulate which will mean the upper sheets will no longer be laying absolutely flat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So shortish stacks on a known flat surface, with some weight distributed on top is probably your best bet. It may also be beneficial to use a sacrificial top board (e.g. melamine-laminated particleboard/chipboard) so that the uppermost sheet of ply is not exposed to the air on one side and not on the other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Material quality&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I don't know if it applies to 1/8&quot; but with thicker material the usual recommendation in woodworking forums to get more reliably flat stock is to buy better material from a better supplier, although sadly this is still not an absolute guarantee you'll get flat sheets of ply every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, in case you are unaware &quot;Baltic birch plywood&quot; is by no means one uniform quality to begin with so it's possible you're not getting particularly good stuff anyway, and there is most certainly better-quality plywood than this. If you want to look at getting something high end be prepared for some sticker shock!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T18:11:04.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3372" CreationDate="2016-02-23T18:19:51.283" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of waterproof adhesives you can use on wood. This includes waterproof versions of conventional &quot;carpenter's glue&quot;, polyurethane adhesives (e.g. the original Gorilla glue), urea-formaldehyde adhesive (e.g. Cascamite) and epoxies as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each has advantages and disadvantages but they're all reliably waterproof. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note on strength:&lt;/strong&gt; there is &lt;em&gt;no&lt;/em&gt; significant strength advantage to any of these despite much written to the contrary. While there are stronger and weaker ones in this list the 'weakest' of them will still make joints that are stronger than the wood itself, which of course is more than strong enough for furniture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This assumes the joints are formed correctly and appropriate clamp pressure is applied. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T18:19:51.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3374" CreationDate="2016-02-23T18:41:54.953" Score="11" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How can I tell if the wood turning chisels are sharp?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with any edged tool you can simply feel the edge (carefully) to check if it's sharp. Almost all traditional woodworking books show a chisel or plane iron's edge being testing with the thumb. However, it can be difficult to judge just how sharp something is by feel — sure it's sharp, but how sharp? — so more empirical tests can be a better idea. So directly testing the edge for cutting performance would be my recommendation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One empirical test that is often used today is to see whether a tool will easily shave hair from your forearm, which is a particularly good test of a high degree of sharpness but it is not ideal as you can easily run out of arm hair if you are testing many edges over a short timeframe. And there is obviously the problem that not everyone would find bare patches on their arm acceptable in the first place :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably a better test is to directly use the tool on wood. Paring the end grain of a softwood such as pine is a very good acid test of sharpness. You do this with a softer softwood and not a hardwood because the soft parts of something like pine will easily bend over (showing as tearing of the fibres) instead of being sliced cleanly. A good edge will slice pine end grain and leave a uniform surface behind, if it's very very sharp indeed the surface will be nearly glossy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case you are unaware, woodworking chisels usually need to be sharpened or honed frequently in use, as often as a few times an hour. As well as that, few are supplied sharpened and ready to use so they need honing before their very first use too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two related threads that might be of further help:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2617/what-should-one-consider-when-purchasing-an-intro-turning-chisel-set&quot;&gt;What should one consider when purchasing an intro turning chisel set?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3300/what-are-these-blemishes-called-and-how-do-i-avoid-them&quot;&gt;What are these blemishes called and how do I avoid them?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T18:41:54.953" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3355" CreationDate="2016-02-23T19:26:43.203" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A workbench top doesn't actually need to be fixed to the legs or leg assembly. As Andy Rae shows in his book &lt;strong&gt;Choosing &amp;amp; Using Hand Tools&lt;/strong&gt; the top can simply sit on round-nosed dowels that project from each leg frame:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PNkiP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PNkiP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Workbench top registers with dowels&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the opposite end of the spectrum you can use something that few woodworkers would conscience in a 'proper' job because they're so utilitarian but they work perfectly well, steel corner brackets:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/knPlY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/knPlY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Two-screw corner bracket&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even the smallest type shown are likely good enough as long as enough of them are fitted, they are placed suitably for the worktop type (to allow for any seasonal movement) and appropriate screws are used, but if you prefer you can use the larger four-screw or six-screw versions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T19:26:43.203" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3361" CreationDate="2016-02-23T20:06:02.410" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to suggest as early or starter woodworking projects the making of a few of the key jigs or 'workshop aids' as they used to be called. In addition to most being very simple to make to a high standard with almost no experience every one of them can immediately be put to use to help in the making of other things so it's a win-win proposition. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Principal among these is the &lt;strong&gt;bench hook&lt;/strong&gt;, the most useful of all workshop aids (particularly if deliberately made to be multi-use). &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1321/whats-a-bench-hook/1327#1327&quot;&gt;A previous Answer&lt;/a&gt; covers them in some detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If planes are available second on the list could be a &lt;strong&gt;shooting board&lt;/strong&gt;, although a suitably built bench hook can be used for basic shooting of both long grain and end grain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not a must-have but next perhaps the &lt;strong&gt;mitre shooting board&lt;/strong&gt;, since making your own picture frames is a very common desire with starter woodworkers and this allows the perfecting of mitre joints, so important for good tight corners. This is the type I think is likely to be easiest to build and found most useful:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/luh4F.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/luh4F.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Basic mitre shooting board&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/scrollsawing/shooting-board/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wood Magazine&lt;/a&gt;]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Marking out is one the the fundamental skills so everyone needs a &lt;strong&gt;marking gauge&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;cutting gauge&lt;/strong&gt;, or ideally both, to help with that. Although it might seem too ambitious, with instruction simpler versions of either could easily be built by beginners in a single weekend, particularly with the aid of the already-made bench hook :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T20:06:02.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3380" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3381" CreationDate="2016-02-23T21:08:07.700" Score="4" ViewCount="7218" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried using v-nails when making picture frames, but didn't have much luck. I tried using a hammer, a hammer+punch, and finger pushing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There must be a trick to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yOpGu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yOpGu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the tricks to getting v-nails to work on picture frames like the pros?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-02-23T23:21:36.117" LastActivityDate="2023-05-02T08:04:57.170" Title="How do you use &quot;v-nails&quot; on picture frames?" Tags="|nailing|nails|framing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3380" CreationDate="2016-02-23T21:52:50.077" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rockler has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/ezy-framer-v-nail-installation-tool&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;V-Nail Installation Tool&lt;/a&gt; that should be right up your alley:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qATLp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qATLp.png&quot; alt=&quot;nailer #1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3efnA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3efnA.png&quot; alt=&quot;nailer #2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there are other stores where you can get these, but this is the first one I found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T21:52:50.077" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3362" CreationDate="2016-02-24T02:41:12.250" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a blank insert for your router table insert plate - assuming you have one. There is one pictured &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/158288/KREG-5pc-Router-Insert-Rings.aspx?gclid=CLPYjoevj8sCFY2QHwodJxUPhQ&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;in this set of five&lt;/a&gt;. (shown below)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FLs2i.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FLs2i.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yf2ae.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yf2ae.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T02:41:12.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3384" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3387" CreationDate="2016-02-24T02:49:40.253" Score="20" ViewCount="7734" Body="&lt;p&gt;My drill press doesn't have a &quot;stop&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I make a drill hole the same depth every time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T03:34:42.583" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T21:51:54.367" Title="How do I make a drill hole the same depth every time?" Tags="|technique|power-tools|drilling|drill-bits|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3385" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3388" CreationDate="2016-02-24T02:55:00.677" Score="6" ViewCount="6398" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a small shed at home that I attempt to do woodworking in. I need to make more room. I've seen lumber yards with outside storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I store some of my wood outside? Which wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For wood that is more sensitive to the elements, what is a good storage solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T02:09:56.303" Title="A good way to store wood &quot;outside&quot;?" Tags="|storage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3384" CreationDate="2016-02-24T03:22:24.667" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simplest means is to place a tab of masking tape on the drill bit at the desired depth.  When the spinning tab lowers to the surface of the wood and sweeps away the wood chips, stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T03:22:24.667" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3385" CreationDate="2016-02-24T03:32:34.547" Score="8" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep your outside wood elevated, level and well supported. Place horizontal supports a maximum of 4' apart with at least 4&quot; above the floor or ground.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allow for plenty of airflow placing 1/2&quot; spacers between each layer of wood on the stack. Separate pieces on the same level by 1/2&quot; as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep them out of the weather. A shed is best, but a waterproof tarp will do as well, although it is best if the tarp does not directly contact the wood (again to allow airflow).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check your wood periodically to make sure it is keeping dry and is not being attacked by insects or other vermin.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally remember to move your wood into the shop at least several weeks before you plan to use it so that it can acclimate to the shop.  You may want to invest in a moisture meter to check the dryness before you work with the material. If too wet, the wood may have to air dry for an extended period.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure what wood would qualify for special handling, but if you paid a lot for it or value it for special characteristics, keep it inside to be safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-02-25T02:09:56.303" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T02:09:56.303" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3384" CreationDate="2016-02-24T03:32:54.660" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tape is what I would have suggested and continue to use but if you wanted something a little more robust my suggestion would be depth stop collars /nuts &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TFP1mm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TFP1mm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://ru.aliexpress.com/store/product/8pcs-Drill-Bit-Depth-Stop-Collar-Split-Ring-Woodworking-Drills-Clamping-Device-Positioner-Hole-Drill-Press/932790_2032105647.html?storeId=932790&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;AliExpress&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Easily removed off the bits and adjustable as well which tape would not be as much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T15:48:05.900" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T15:48:05.900" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3384" CreationDate="2016-02-24T03:34:53.320" Score="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ashler's answer is the simplest and cheapest way to get holes the same depth.  But as an extra there are bit collars that can be put on the bits which will enforce exact depth stops.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/16ZPX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/16ZPX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T03:34:53.320" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3384" CreationDate="2016-02-24T03:40:26.437" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can also adjust your drill press table to be at the desired depth when the drill reaches the end of it's stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1112" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T03:40:26.437" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3392" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-24T04:00:23.967" Score="10" ViewCount="991" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find that the thing I make most in my shop is sawdust, I'm quite skilled at it. Much of my scraps and dust end up on a garbage truck and I am looking for a more earth friendly way to deal with it.  I have tried composting the sawdust to use in gardens but it is very slow to decay and I am not certain how good it is as a fertilizer and soil enhancement. What alternatives are available to sending the stuff to a landfill? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T20:21:36.603" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T20:21:36.603" Title="What alternatives are there to throwing sawdust in the trash?" Tags="|sawdust|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-02-26T14:41:47.543" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3392" CreationDate="2016-02-24T04:55:37.663" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bio fuel briquettes / fire logs&lt;/strong&gt; for campfire / woodstove would be a simple suggestion outside of compost. When it comes to compost you cannot use too much and also heed my warning below. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gist of the solutions our there are to take sawdust and wood pulp mixing it with water and compressing it as much as possible. Small containers work best where you can have some holes to let the water out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best approach would involve some sort of press but I have seen success just using large amounts of weight. Either way try and get as much of the water out of the pulp as you can. Once that is done leave it to dry. Milage will vary with local  but they would need to dry several days at least. Once dry then you have some simple fire logs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One such &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Bio-fuel-briquettes-compress-paper-pulp-and-sawdu/step5/the-mixture-and-mixer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;example of this process can be found on instructables.com&lt;/a&gt;. Another from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ana-white.com/2013/01/plans/firelogsfirestarters-sawdust&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ana White using paraffin wax and hand mixing&lt;/a&gt;. I have heard of more success with water and compression. Here is a video &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JnylLNYxlnE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;showing a paper/sawdust mixture and using a perforated sewer pipe and a bottle jack jig&lt;/a&gt; to force the water out. You can find oodles of variations of this so you should be able to find a combinations of tools and techniques that can suit your needs. There are commercial options as far as pressed go that are designed for this as well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Be warned though!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all sawdust should be burned or used for anything other than landfill. Be aware of your woods and things that have glues and adhesives should not be burned. Other things like treated wood should be avoided as well. Some woods are known irritants and allergens. This cannot be stressed enough so you just need to be careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;em&gt;related&lt;/em&gt; question on this subject: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/65/how-should-i-dispose-of-sawdust-safely?rq=1&quot;&gt;How should I dispose of sawdust safely?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T05:09:53.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3365" CreationDate="2016-02-24T06:12:14.933" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found the below for circular saws blades. Nothing for band saws yet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Avgn7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Avgn7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T06:12:14.933" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3396" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3401" CreationDate="2016-02-24T06:38:57.540" Score="2" ViewCount="730" Body="&lt;p&gt;My tendency is to grab a pocket hole jig for everything. But I'm sure it's not always the best choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the limitations of a pocket hole jig?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2016-02-27T14:07:48.920" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T14:07:49.107" Title="What are the limitations of a pocket hole jig?" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2016-03-07T01:51:04.517" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3392" CreationDate="2016-02-24T06:59:51.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used sawdust as filler in my yard to curtail erosion. Especially where I sometimes parked my truck and left ruts in the rain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T06:59:51.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3399" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3402" CreationDate="2016-02-24T07:45:32.090" Score="2" ViewCount="705" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried using pallet wood for a small project, but it was really hard to take apart. Spiral looking nails everywhere. I ended up tearing more wood up than what I could use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does one disassemble a pallet for up-cycle pallet wood projects?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T11:16:59.287" Title="How-to disassemble a pallet for up-cycle pallet wood projects?" Tags="|pallet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-02-24T13:50:20.580" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3384" CreationDate="2016-02-24T10:09:06.590" Score="38" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of people drill a hole through a suitable length of wood dowel (or small square cross section) and use that as a stop-collar on the drill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gx71d.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gx71d.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2015/04/21/is-there-a-good-drill-stop-out-there/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Example&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also just use an external chunk of wood&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HvXHH.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HvXHH.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodgears.ca/workbench/drawers.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Example&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One benefit of both these is you don't need an Allen key and can very quickly swap back and forth between two or more different depths (useful for e.g. dowelling)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unlike some pieces of tape or rubber/plastic grommets, they can't be pushed out of position by overenthusiastic pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="158" LastEditorUserId="158" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T10:29:51.140" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T10:29:51.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3396" CreationDate="2016-02-24T11:16:06.180" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are really 3 factors on whether or not to use a pocket hole jig.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aesthetics - Can you hide/fill the joint?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strength - There are a few good writeups on the relative strength of pocket holes vs every other joint - &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodgears.ca/joint_strength/pockethole.html&quot;&gt;https://woodgears.ca/joint_strength/pockethole.html&lt;/a&gt; is a good one. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The last factor is what I like to think of as wood fever. There is a certain mindset that seems to think that bringing metal to a joint which can be done purely in wood is a sin, and Saint Underhill will come and smite you for doing it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I love pocket joinery. Its tough enough for all my projects (especially if supplemented with glue) and does not consume huge amounts of time &lt;em&gt;tweaking&lt;/em&gt; the fit.  I have seen Norm Abrams use it repeatedly and as far as I am concerned if its good enough for him it works for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1874" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T11:16:06.180" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3399" CreationDate="2016-02-24T11:16:59.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pulling the nails&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Initially most people who do this will start with a claw hammer. While that can obviously work it has some definite downsides. Other than the aching backs most people will experience some wooden-handled hammers simply can't take the strain of pulling ring-shank and spiral-shank nails, that have often rusted into the wood, again and again and again. I found this out the hard way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All-steel hammers and those with fibreglass handles should be immune to this problem, but the effort involved in pulling nails with a hammer is still more than you need to expend. It's better to use leverage to your advantage and use one of these instead:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Bob5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Bob5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wrecking bar&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These make the job a lot easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will also run into the problem of nails with weak heads, or heads that have become weak due to rusting, which means they bend or break off when you try to pull them using a hammer's claws. A well-made claw hammer or wrecking bar doesn't require the head to be in place, but if you don't have one with sharp enough internal edges in the 'V' you usually have to resort to pulling some or all of the nails from some pallets using a nail puller, although you can do a surprisingly decent job with a pair of pliers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using all of the above tools it is a good idea to protect the surface of the wood from being bruised by with a small scrap of wood. With pliers especially this provides some much-needed levering advantage too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related previous thread: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/430/what-is-the-best-way-to-remove-nails-from-pallets&quot;&gt;What is the best way to remove nails from pallets?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Breaking pallets down&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Beyond pulling nails to get boards off there are dedicated tools now made for taking pallets apart. In addition to the ones you can buy there are a few projects posted online with instructions for making your own (note that this usually requires welding). Most have a soft of family resemblance to the commercial varieties and end up looking something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w9Kil.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w9Kil.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pallet-breaking tool&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Source: handycrowd.com, &lt;a href=&quot;http://handycrowd.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/How-to-make-a-pallet-breaker-from-handycrowd.com_.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PDF guide here&lt;/a&gt;]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These &lt;em&gt;greatly&lt;/em&gt; speed up the breakdown of a pallet (see YouTube videos for just how much) but you are of course still left with the nails to remove after. Or perhaps not.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Leaving the nails in place&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Many people who do this a lot eventually stop their attempts to pull nails because of the time and effort involved. But more than this there is also the great chance of damaging the wood as you've experienced. In addition the wood at the site of the nails can be cracked already, something I'm sure everyone who has taken apart a number of pallets will have experienced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where this is done to break the pallet down the two main tools used seem to be an angle grinder with a suitable wheel or a reciprocating saw. The boards are levered up slightly from the blocks they're nailed to, just enough for clearance of the wheel or saw blade, and then the nails are cut through at the back. With practice this can go very quickly and efficiently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leaving the nails in the wood might seem actively risky given that further processes are going to run into the embedded metal, which can damage tools and even pose a significant personal safety risk in the case of planers and other power tools. But if you really want to upcycle the wood from a pallet you would ideally lose any nail holes, so the wood in that area is always going to be discarded anyway. Obviously this does greatly limit the size of the pieces you get but it's worth it. When you do this you end up with material that nobody can tell used to form part of a pallet, which I think is the ultimate goal myself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And there is some very nice wood indeed being used to make some pallets. Not that softwoods are inherently inferior but I've gotten Honduran mahogany and others have harvested purpleheart, padauk, teak or something very similar, oaks of various kinds and numerous other hardwoods. Quality wood like this shouldn't be marred by nail holes and any associated iron staining if it's to look its best. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cleaning off the surface&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Not directly tied to disassembly but the rough-sawn surface of much pallet wood can of course be very dirty. It can harbour a significant amount of grit, which can itself pose quite a risk to your tools. It is worth the time to wash and scrub down the wood, or at least give if a thorough going over with a stiff wire brush to get the worst of this off before you begin any finer processes, especially surface planing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T11:16:59.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3403" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3410" CreationDate="2016-02-24T11:21:50.787" Score="3" ViewCount="1762" Body="&lt;p&gt;My local home center has started stocking baltic birch pre-sanded plywood, great stuff but I cannot seem to finish it.  If I try to stain its very blotchy, and if I shellac its too pale for my taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stain was Minwax Gunstock Interior wood stain and the shellac was Zissner clear shellac if it helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any seasoned folks out there have tips for staining this stuff?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1874" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T13:17:50.693" LastActivityDate="2020-08-05T12:42:04.270" Title="Having trouble finding a good finish for baltic birch" Tags="|finishing|plywood|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3373" CreationDate="2016-02-24T11:40:01.573" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I heard of a particular double sided tape, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.findtape.com/Permacel-P-02-Double-Coated-Kraft-Paper-Tape/p190/http://www.findtape.com/Permacel-P-02-Double-Coated-Kraft-Paper-Tape/p190/?vid=879&amp;amp;bc=F&amp;amp;gclid=Cj0KEQiAxrW2BRCFidKbqKyq1YEBEiQAnMDWxrH36FJ54FxyL0DwHE7wv7UfFMWarrIU-52nSeEcFc4aAkll8P8HAQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nitto&lt;/a&gt;, being used as a hold down for metal when doing milling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It is recommended for holding metal in place during machining operations (provides a secure, movement-free hold-down)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible that it is too aggressive with tack, and a different one would be more suitable for holding wood down for the duration of the laser cutting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="834" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T11:40:01.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3405" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3406" CreationDate="2016-02-24T13:02:30.037" Score="15" ViewCount="13163" Body="&lt;p&gt;Barring support for older tools why are keyed chucks still manufactured? Hopefully not just in my own ignorance but I view keyless chucks as just a useful equivalent without being tethered to the need for a key. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A recent question I asked had a link to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jacobschuck.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.jacobschuck.com/&lt;/a&gt; which hosts this image on their main page:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zZcNx.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zZcNx.png&quot; alt=&quot;pictures of a keyed and a keyless chuck&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They both look beautifully manufactured but why bother getting a keyed chuck? Is it a matter of what the tool supports? Seems unlikely, to me, since I would have expected both chucks to be similar in design, in that respect, to be attachable to the same tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either save me from my ignorance or enlighten me as to what I am missing by favoring keyless?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T23:41:47.823" LastActivityDate="2021-08-17T21:12:55.727" Title="Why are keyed drill chucks still available for modern tools?" Tags="|power-tools|tool-selection|drilling|tool-identification|drill|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3405" CreationDate="2016-02-24T13:13:32.357" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keyed chucks still get a better grip on any bit. I'm willing to use keyless on my portable drill -- though mine will take a key too, and there are times when I use it. I wouldn't trust keyless on a drill press.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T13:13:32.357" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3405" CreationDate="2016-02-24T14:01:06.693" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @keshlam pointed out.  My drill presses both have keyed chucks and it allows much greater torque to put a stronger clamp on the bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is really important for larger bits when you get over 1 1/2&quot; say for keyhole saws or large Forstner bits.  There can be a lot of resistance and I don't think most keyless chucks can do the job.  Even there I've had a keyhole come loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T14:50:28.470" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T14:50:28.470" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3392" CreationDate="2016-02-24T14:15:34.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are plenty of other uses, though most need some extra work.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the saw dust doesn't have treated wood in it then it can be used as mulch, some plants like raspberry beds love saw dust.  My wife also used it as mulch around her flower beds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My dad's neighbor uses it for animal bedding.  Horses and chickens.  Chickens seem to be a big one and growing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There also pellet makers for pellet stoves, though I would do plenty of research before buying one of these.  You might find someone who already has one and partner with them.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MJ2B0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MJ2B0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;pellet stove pellet maker&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T14:15:34.343" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3403" CreationDate="2016-02-24T14:22:09.810" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that baltic birch takes stains in a blotchy manor in general.  Since it is not the only wood that does this, they have products for blotch control.  One group is called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/blotch-control-to-rule-them-all/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pre-conditioners&lt;/a&gt;.  They are applied to the wood before you stain and they even out the grains ability to absorb stain.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will even out the stains absorption and then the blotchyness will be reduced or eliminated depending on the product and your application of it.  The link above is an article about using pre-conditioners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T14:22:09.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3403" CreationDate="2016-02-24T14:45:00.803" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I try to stain [the birch] its very blotchy, and if I shellac its too pale for my taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Birch is notorious for its blotchiness.  To reduce this, apply a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; thin coat of shellac prior to staining to seal the grain a little, and then continue your finishing regimen as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't really give you any pointers for how thin the shellac should be (I do it by eye), but &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.finewoodworking.com/fine-woodworking-knots/finishing/thinning-bullseye-shellac&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;dilute it with denatured alcohol&lt;/a&gt; until it's almost like water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As always, use a test piece to get things dialed in correctly.  It will probably take some trial and error until you get the process down (I know it did for me).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T15:32:46.000" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T15:32:46.000" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3392" CreationDate="2016-02-24T15:24:15.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a link with a multitude of possibilities. OK 28.  The break down into categories of burning them, using them for gardening, craft applications, animal bedding, absorption uses, wood filler, even cooking.  One option I had not thought of was to list it on craigslist and see who is interested.  One result for listing it was a mushroom farmer who loved the stuff.    Only a few uses would consume the amount of sawdust I can generate when I'm cooking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears that treated wood, some exotics and black walnut dust should be kept separate from agricultural and animal applications.  I found information that that black walnut trees secrete a poison called juglone as a  natural defense to prevent other trees from growing in their proximity, so it should definitely be kept separate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2008/06/28-ways-to-recycle-and-reuse-sawdust-and-woodchips&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2008/06/28-ways-to-recycle-and-reuse-sawdust-and-woodchips&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T15:24:15.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3392" CreationDate="2016-02-24T15:57:57.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I keep a plastic bag filled with sawdust to use as wood filler. Mixing it with a little glue can provide a nice material to fill small cracks or defects. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="892" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T15:57:57.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3413" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3424" CreationDate="2016-02-24T17:52:43.930" Score="5" ViewCount="7384" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm specifically trying to drill hole saw holes of 2.5&quot; in a 4&quot;x4&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I create a hole with a hole saw that is deeper than the tool? (The saw itself)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there alternatives to hole saws for thicker material?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T03:21:24.150" Title="How do I create a hole with a hole saw that is deeper than the tool?" Tags="|holes|hole-saw|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3414" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3420" CreationDate="2016-02-24T18:00:04.687" Score="2" ViewCount="1340" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was trying to make a dollhouse by hand. I bought some ~1/4&quot; thick plywood and a coping saw at a box store. I paid about $15 for the tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I got home, I tried cutting out the pattern with the coping saw, but it worked me to death and got stuck a lot. I turned the blade both ways but didn't get much improvement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I eventually used the power tools (band saw, scroll saw).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was I doing something wrong with the hand coping saw? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was this the wrong tool for the job?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-01-12T14:07:27.580" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T14:07:27.580" Title="Using a coping saw with 1/4&quot; wood sheets" Tags="|hand-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3413" CreationDate="2016-02-24T18:02:34.563" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One trick that will go (in this case) up to 5&quot; is to drill as far as you can from one side, Drill a hole using the guide hole all the way through the wood, and then flip the board over using the guide hole to align the new cut from the opposite direction.  they should meet up.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dAyVo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dAyVo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T18:02:34.563" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3405" CreationDate="2016-02-24T18:06:16.363" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Self-tightening keyless chuck have similar clamping capabilities as keyed chucks, but the price premium on those types of chucks are significant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example from the Jacobs site linked, the cheapest 1/2inch self-tightening keyless chucks are $185.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than cost, one disadvantage of the keyless self-tightening chucks is that after some extreme high torque drilling, you might need a wrench to unscrew the chuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="453" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T18:06:16.363" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3417" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3418" CreationDate="2016-02-24T19:30:36.640" Score="4" ViewCount="307" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a computer desk out of some old oak boards that had been on the side of an old tobacco barn for around 60 years. I tore the building down and thought, hey I wonder what this would look like cleaned up.  After running the boards through a planner they looked awesome. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question to you: Is there anything to be worried about with these boards? They were pretty well coated in black mold. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1888" LastEditorUserId="919" LastEditDate="2016-02-25T12:42:23.890" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T12:42:23.890" Title="Cleaning old hard wood" Tags="|safety|wood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3417" CreationDate="2016-02-24T19:54:27.350" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the most dangerous part was putting them through your planner.  I hope you used a good dust mask.  Lots of that stuff gets airborn when you plane it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you made it to clean wood, then you are likely to be pretty good.  You still might want to take precautions when cutting it up, but then you should be doing that anyway, since 'clean' saw dust is still a hazard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But once you build your desk, and put a seal and finish on it, you shouldn't have much to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T19:54:27.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3417" CreationDate="2016-02-24T20:34:29.240" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Second the safety aspects of &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/3418/128&quot;&gt;bowlturner's answer&lt;/a&gt;. Black molds, if that is indeed what you found, are some of the more dangerous ones to peoples health. They condemn buildings on a significant presence. My only other concern would be for your projects. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For mold to be growing you typically need higher levels of humidity. I would let you boards normalize for a while and check their moisture content. Possibly leave them out in the sun for a while. If you check it now and its MC is fine then there is no issue. I am worried that your boards are going to warp. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T01:25:42.960" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3414" CreationDate="2016-02-24T20:46:56.723" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally don't like referencing wikipedia but I liked the opening sentence from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coping_saw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;post about the Coping Saw&lt;/a&gt; (emphasis mine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A coping saw is a type of hand saw used to cut &lt;strong&gt;intricate external shapes and interior cutouts&lt;/strong&gt; in woodworking or carpentry&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still should have worked easier than you are describing though. Like &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3414/using-a-coping-saw-with-1-4-wood-sheets/3420?noredirect=1#comment6819_3414&quot;&gt;Adam Zuckerman was asking&lt;/a&gt; the teeth count could play a role im this as well. Higher tooth count would have made for a cleaner cut. Sawing works best if you let the tool do the cutting and not use force. Also keep in mind that the coping saw is a push &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; pull tool. (Depends on blade orientation of course)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were making a dollhouse I would have expected lots of straight lines and edges. While a coping saw should be capable of doing that task I would not have thought it to be the ideal tool. Regular fine tooth hand saw would work for this if you have the piece clamped and immobilized as much as possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I was going to use power tools I would look to bandsaw first for smaller projects or a fine tooth blade on a table saw. For a hand tool approach a smaller style bow saw would work but those tools are not readily available in stores. The bow saws you find in retail stores are more for cutting branches of trees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scroll saw would have similar issues with straight lines (without a fence of some sort) unless you are really good with one (I still need more practice). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought more about this and I wonder about the plywood quality as well. Cheaper plywoods will have the plies chip apart so they would tear more than cut. This would bind the coping saw making it harder to make fluid motions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T01:27:20.273" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3405" CreationDate="2016-02-24T22:01:50.600" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My cheapie light-duty drill press, which cost less than a good cordless drill, has not only a keyed chuck but a much larger one at that. The key is scaled up in all ways relative to the hand-drill's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My corded drill also has a keyed chuck just like my father's did 40 years ago. Maybe that's cheaper? Maybe people using a corded drill now are wanting unlimited power, higher reliability, and unquestioning grip on the bit or exotic thingie being chucked.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also note that the keyed chuck is smaller around, and can fit in tight places where the keyless chuck does not, like drilling half an inch from a wall or post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="315" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T22:01:50.600" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3413" CreationDate="2016-02-24T23:59:41.593" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hole saw may not be the best tool for the task. A Forstner bit or something of that sort might be more appropriate. Even a spade bit might be a good choice depending on the material and the diameter of the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T23:59:41.593" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3413" CreationDate="2016-02-25T02:29:07.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Three other options come to mind, none are perfect although # 3 is not bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Toolmonger.com has very deep hole saw bits. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://toolmonger.com/2009/08/14/extra-deep-hole-saw/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://toolmonger.com/2009/08/14/extra-deep-hole-saw/&lt;/a&gt;) But damn, these babies are pricey and you may need a drill with horsepower!  And good luck getting the wood block out of the drill if it wedges.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VZQle.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VZQle.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You could cut the hole using multiple drillings and then clean out the edges with gouges.  It will be tough to make the hole as clean as a drill bit would do it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut the wood piece into two vertically, cut the cylindrical shape on the band saw, then glue the two pieces back together.  I did this on a series of carved wood vases with cylindrical glass vase inserts and the seams are impossible to find.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T02:29:07.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3413" CreationDate="2016-02-25T03:21:24.150" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could drill as deep as the hole saw allows, then use a chisel to remove the &amp;quot;plug&amp;quot; left behind.  Then drill again with the hole saw.  One thing I would highly recommend anytime drilling using a hole saw is to give the chips a place to go.  In this scenario I would drill a smaller hole using a spade/forstener bit inside the hole but overlapping with where the hole saw will be cutting.  Like the red hole in this diagram:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rjdn2.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rjdn2.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience this allows the hole saw to work much more efficiently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1112" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T03:21:24.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3425" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3442" CreationDate="2016-02-25T04:39:53.970" Score="3" ViewCount="216" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've worked with a lathe maybe a few dozen times, making things like wooden salad bowls, goblets, baseball bats, and some other relatively simple items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to buy a lathe, and one of the first projects I want to make is a very large chess set (ie: 8&quot; tall king) as a gift to a friend who is an avid chess enthusiast. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pennstateind.com/library/CHESSTMP_ins.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;I've found some stencils for the pieces I want to make with a lathe&lt;/a&gt;, but I've only ever used fairly simple lathes. I don't really know what to look for when it comes to a lathe with some sort of modular chisel guide that allows sheet metal stencils to be installed to act as a guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What type of lathe should I be looking for if I want to use stencils to create precise replicas of the same part multiple times?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1902" LastActivityDate="2021-12-17T18:59:06.977" Title="What type of lathe do I need for duplicating parts" Tags="|power-tools|tool-selection|turning|lathe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3426" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3439" CreationDate="2016-02-25T05:02:11.300" Score="3" ViewCount="689" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used two table saw sleds made by other people. In both cases, the horizontal surface that the wood attaches too on either side of the saw blade tends to rise or lift up unevenly. Especially when clamped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can see that the wood is essentially just bending under pressure. But how do I prevent this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What causes a table saw sled to be uneven on either side of the cut line?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(these sleds didn't have a &lt;s&gt;cross piece on the opposing side&lt;/s&gt; &lt;em&gt;a stiffener&lt;/em&gt;, I suppose to accommodate material deeper than the sled - maybe it's as simple as that)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="1861" LastEditDate="2016-02-27T07:52:56.223" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T07:52:56.223" Title="What causes a table saw sled to be uneven on either side of the cut line?" Tags="|table-saw|jig|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3427" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3475" CreationDate="2016-02-25T05:05:27.270" Score="2" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen someone shape a piece of wood with a draw knife by marking the wood in places with a pencil, then drawing the knife over the area until the mark was gone. Then repeating. He seemed to be doing this with relatively high accuracy results with respect to shape. He was also using a piece of paper and other measuring tools to monitor his outcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have attempted to find youtube videos of this, but haven't found any that do this particular thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the draw knife technique with pencil marks called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I believe he was making scale model boat spars)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2016-02-26T07:03:48.450" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T07:03:48.450" Title="What is the draw knife technique with pencil marks called?" Tags="|terminology|traditional-techniques|draw-knife|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3428" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3433" CreationDate="2016-02-25T05:18:54.897" Score="0" ViewCount="522" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen twine and fiberglass used for bamboo joinery. But...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is this mystery bamboo joinery on this bamboo bike frame(s)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ot99y.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ot99y.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l6H9R.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l6H9R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T05:58:48.117" Title="What is this mystery bamboo joinery on this bamboo bike frame?" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3019" CreationDate="2016-02-25T05:36:10.197" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this clever apparatus for clamp extension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LLKqG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LLKqG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5_hfQ0S_gYw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a video on how to make one&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T05:36:10.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3430" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3443" CreationDate="2016-02-25T05:42:01.493" Score="9" ViewCount="203" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in my shop for a full day on average once a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many many people seem to have shops without air filtration systems and don't complain, though I have poor ventilation in my shop in general. Even so, only MDF tends to mess up the air quality noticeably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I expect an improved weekend shop experience from installing an air filtration system? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At what point does such a system make sense as far as time spent in the shop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What specific benefits can I expect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-02-29T02:17:05.457" LastActivityDate="2022-01-27T03:13:54.150" Title="Can I expect an improved weekend shop experience from installing an air filtration system?" Tags="|safety|dust-collection|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3432" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3438" CreationDate="2016-02-25T05:58:14.870" Score="21" ViewCount="266332" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a drawer of tons of drill bits from all over the place - many donated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost all of these bits are dull black or gold-ish colored and don't have much else in the way distinguishing them (that I know to look for). They just look like generic drill bits (not forstner, paddle, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone told me not long ago not to use metal drill bits on wood and vice versa. I've never heard this before. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to identify a wood drill bit from a metal drill bit - and does it matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-02-25T12:40:32.047" LastActivityDate="2018-07-01T20:58:36.980" Title="How to identify a wood drill bit from a metal drill bit - and does it matter?" Tags="|tool-identification|drill-bits|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3428" CreationDate="2016-02-25T05:58:48.117" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the manufacturer's site (&lt;a href=&quot;http://calfeedesign.com/products/bamboo/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://calfeedesign.com/products/bamboo/&lt;/a&gt;), it looks like the connectors between the bamboo parts (called lugs) are &quot;Hemp fiber lugs with plant based high performance eco resin&quot;. Meaning that these are basically a man-made epoxy-like parts. So, this is a not wood joinery in the traditional sense, as there is no actual contact of wood-to-wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T05:58:48.117" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3434" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-25T06:04:03.337" Score="1" ViewCount="269" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was trying to saw a small log (5&quot; diameter) on a bandsaw, but was having a very difficult time keeping it flush on the table due to the irregularities in the log. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is different than &quot;how to re-saw large logs&quot; as I'm exclusively interested in bandsaw techniques and safety - not the broader aspect of re-sawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How could I have kept the log on the bandsaw table more effectively for both safety and quality of cut?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="1861" LastEditDate="2016-02-25T22:29:25.133" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T22:29:25.133" Title="Bandsawing a small log - how to keep the log on the bandsaw table?" Tags="|safety|band-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3435" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3444" CreationDate="2016-02-25T06:20:29.630" Score="2" ViewCount="1692" Body="&lt;p&gt;I enjoying flocking boxes and other wood working projects. It's much preferable to trying to line with sheets of felt. But, flocking fibers seem oddly expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there alternatives to buying flocking fibers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to make flocking-like fibers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there other techniques like flocking or with other fibers that are less expensive and have similar results?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T17:25:27.100" Title="Are there alternatives to buying flocking fibers?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3436" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3437" CreationDate="2016-02-25T06:26:58.257" Score="2" ViewCount="153" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently wanted to cut out a 3' spirograph using a jigsaw. I designed it in CAD and was eventually able to get something to work on a CNC router. In hindsight a jigsaw would have been just as good if not better. But I don't have a large format printer and CAD would've been a chore to use to print off all those different sheets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a software that will print large jigsaw patterns on letter sized sheets of paper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally the software would be specifically for this process and the sheets would fit together nicely for cutting with alignment marks or some such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UsaOF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UsaOF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="1861" LastEditDate="2016-02-28T06:57:06.953" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T06:57:06.953" Title="Is there a software that will print large jigsaw patterns on letter sized sheets of paper?" Tags="|jigsaw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-02-26T14:31:14.727" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3436" CreationDate="2016-02-25T07:51:45.900" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Matthias Wandel on Woodgears wrote a program just for that. I haven't used it myself, but from his own use of this it looks like exactly what you are looking for. He is selling it for 22$, but there is also a free evaluation version:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodgears.ca/bigprint/&quot;&gt;https://woodgears.ca/bigprint/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T07:51:45.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3432" CreationDate="2016-02-25T10:19:48.990" Score="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;It does matter - wood drill bits won't work on metal (destroying the bit in the process, unless used on thin and soft metals) and metal drill bits will increase splintering and tear-out when used on wood (but this depends also on the wood type and the diameter of the bit, and for smaller diameters there is little difference between wood and metal drills bits).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for how to tell them apart - wood drill bits have two distinguishing features: a spar (also brad) and a lip. The spar helps in keeping the bit centered when starting the hole and prevents wandering of the bit on the surface of the wood. The lip acts like a chisel, slicing through the wood fibers in the circumference of the drilled hole, improving the quality of the finish. This is most important for through holes, where the lips helps reduce &quot;blow-out&quot; of the wood when exiting the wood on the other side. Wood bits are typical black and silvery in color, but other colors exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bqLuG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bqLuG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wood drill bit&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Metal drill bits, on the other hand, have just an angle at the tip. They often are fully black (plain HSS), golden (often titanium oxide finish) or coppery (often cobalt steel) in color:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lmd7R.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lmd7R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Metal drill bit&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastEditorUserId="4065" LastEditDate="2017-08-18T15:19:41.130" LastActivityDate="2017-08-18T15:19:41.130" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3426" CreationDate="2016-02-25T13:04:12.530" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[T]hese sleds didn't have a cross piece on the opposing side, I suppose to accommodate material deeper than the sled - maybe it's as simple as that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that board is missing then it would be a large contributing factor to the sled overall flatness. That board sole purpose is to help keep the jig flat. Consider the following picture where a crosscuts sleds parts are labelled. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XzaoV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XzaoV.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cross cut sled anatomy&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.familyhandyman.com/tools/table-saws/crosscuts-with-a-table-saw-sled/view-all&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;familyhandyman.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The board I believe you are referring to is identified as a stiffener in the above diagram. Note that I included the picture because of the label and not because I am promoting that sled design or style. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The absence of that board might not be the sole contributing factor. The choice of plywood will also play a large role in this. Near all the tutorials on building these sleds call for baltic birch plywood. While more expensive than your common plywood it is revered for its dimensional stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lesser point would be if these were hand-me-downs or constructed just for you. If the former, where they were stored would be important. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[T]he horizontal surface that the wood attaches too on either side of the saw blade tends to rise or lift up unevenly  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could interpret that statement to mean there is an issue with the runners underneath the sled or that your mitre slots are not perfectly clean and it is affected by left over debris.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T13:04:12.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3434" CreationDate="2016-02-25T13:07:26.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several times a year I rig my 14&quot; bandsaw to resaw logs, usually up to 10&quot; dia. and 4' long by removing the table from the saw and securing a 10' roller conveyor centered in place. (Sorry, I have no photos of it set up at this time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OeWCo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OeWCo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Roller conveyor&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I support the ends with 2x4 frames and bolt it to the saw table mounting brackets with some metal clips I made from scrap aluminum angles. The 10' length supports a 24&quot; long sled (shown sitting on my table saw).  I rigged wheels to the sled to keep it on track. To mount the logs I simply screw them to the fence on the sled (be careful not to place the screws in the path of the bandsaw blade).  I also use wood blocks secured to the sled base and fence to keep logs from rocking. I whipped the sled up in a hurry so it has more play than I like which is most noticeable with logs longer than 4' where twist is possible.  I found that it helps if I start with a profile of a log with a flat bottom.  This increases the stability of the sled and log as it moves through the bandsaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GVoP8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GVoP8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Resaw sled&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T13:07:26.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3441" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-25T13:17:54.200" Score="7" ViewCount="4349" Body="&lt;p&gt;I realize that every wood species expands and contracts slightly  differently, but in general at what width should I consider using a floating breadboard edge detail rather than a full glue-up for perpendicular grain conditions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FyazW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FyazW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;crossgrain table top&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have visited sites that provide the decimal widths of expansion for various species, but do not have a feel for what levels of movement can be absorbed by a glued joint, before it begins to fail.  I also understand that breadboards provide protection against cupping, but that can be addressed in a variety of ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2016-02-25T14:06:18.073" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T11:38:36.760" Title="What is the maximum width for a full cross grain glue up?" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3425" CreationDate="2016-02-25T13:54:42.360" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend finding the lathe of your choice.  I personally like my Jet, however there are many great lathes out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you buy a duplicator for it.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B001DT17EK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rockler&lt;/a&gt; has a duplicator that fits most standing lathes and will duplicate up to 39&amp;quot; material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0000DD1DY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Grizzly attachment&lt;/a&gt; for their lathes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So as I stated in the beginning.  Find a lathe that meets your requirements (there are many to choose from, with many different options available).  Then worry about your duplicating abilities.  Unless of course you want to buy a dedicated duplicating machine (big bucks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2021-12-17T18:59:06.977" LastActivityDate="2021-12-17T18:59:06.977" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3430" CreationDate="2016-02-25T14:20:12.170" Score="11" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What specific benefits can I expect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your health.  I have a large dust collector which I run most of the time I'm using large power tools.  While it does a pretty good job of keeping things 'clean' an has a 1 micron canister filter to keep from throwing the small stuff back into the air, it still doesn't catch everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it is those small under 5 micron particles that are very dangerous to your health in long term exposure.  I have two different masks one for turning and one for sanding to help reduce my exposure, but I still need to get an air filter to mount on the ceiling.  The longer you are in your shop for extended periods the more important it becomes to have cleaned air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So while it might not be imperative to have one today, I would plan on one in the near future, especially if you are using your shop to teach others and have them spending time in there.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T14:20:12.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3435" CreationDate="2016-02-25T17:25:27.100" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3435/are-there-alternatives-to-buying-flocking-fibers#comment6883_3435&quot;&gt;Ast Pace&lt;/a&gt; took part of the sentiment here. Flocking fibres are not that expensive. Also a stat/faq for a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.craftflocking.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;particular supplier&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How Much Flocking Do I Need?&lt;/strong&gt; 1 ounce of flocking fiber will cover about 3 square feet. (depending on recovered fibers)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are doing something like bandsaw boxes you don't need that much (as long as you are not too liberal and reclaim loose flock). However I am all for DIY so I will present the two solutions that seem applicable and that require tools and materials related to woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Sandpaper and Paper&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This option yielded better results aesthetically but was also the biggest pain. Just take some sandpaper and mount it on a block or foam. Run it on the paper and it will make / pull fine fibers of the paper. This has a better result then the next suggestion I found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Sawdust and Paint&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that I can get a good amount of sawdust powder when I am working on some of the finer projects. Using small amount of paint you can mix it with saw dust powder (finer the better) to get half decent flock. Issues here are that sawdust is not good for the lungs so you need to be careful working with it. Also it will not be as fine as commercial products as the use much more involved materials and processes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This came up more wear people were making terrain for models and game boards that size and texture were considered good points as it added to the authenticity. True flock would not have been as aesthetically pleasing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Honestly just buy it.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you will get much better results. I am not sure what size the projects you are thinking of are but the stuff is rather cheap. True there are some tools considerations for apply it but they are only useful if you plan on doing this alot. Again, not advocating the site or product but the first thing I came upon sells 1oz bags for under 2$ (without shipping of course). Your local craft stores would unexpectedly carry products like this. My local hobby store has this stuff but only in green.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T17:25:27.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3430" CreationDate="2016-02-25T19:41:04.047" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main difference I see in my workshop with my dust collection and ventilation systems running is that I don't get dust over everything. I also notice it helps keep my protective eyewear clean for a longer time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dust control is pretty important for me since I also do welding/grinding in my workshop and the fine wood dust is quite flammable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though I usually wear a respirator too when I do any kind of activities that create lots of dust or smoke.&#xA;I always use a respirator when I work with MDF, particleboard, or treated wood. Those chemicals in the wood is bad for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="453" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T19:41:04.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3446" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3450" CreationDate="2016-02-25T23:24:49.823" Score="2" ViewCount="467" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a table by gluing 2x4's together on the long side (4&quot; side). This resulted in a table of abnormal weight. Now the table is sagging in the middle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall table dimensions are 31&quot;X50&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I fix this table by flipping it over and attaching the legs on bottom to make the bottom the new top - thus letting gravity do the work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would additional bracing be ideal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a chance this will tear itself apart?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g1fH9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g1fH9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The bottom table - the top one works fine.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T00:24:23.420" Title="How to fix a 2x4 table that is too heavy for its own good?" Tags="|glue|softwood|table-making|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3447" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3454" CreationDate="2016-02-25T23:33:19.023" Score="0" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had several incidents where I ask for a sheet of 4x8 wood to be cut down into more manageable sizes at a big box store on a panel saw and the result was less than favorable. The resulting pieces were out of square and, of lesser issue, cut other than close to indicated sizes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have even marked the wood for them before, and am then left with the awkward situation of them still not doing it correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a trick to these panel saws that the employee's aren't aware of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone had good luck with getting fairly accurate and square cuts at a big box store? What steps did you take? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="1861" LastEditDate="2016-02-26T00:16:17.820" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T00:35:05.827" Title="How do I prevent big box stores from cutting badly on a panel saw?" Tags="|plywood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3250" CreationDate="2016-02-26T00:08:58.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is something for leveling wood floors called &quot;self leveling compound&quot;. I don't have direct experience with it, but I used to sell it. If I remember correctly you have to put it on in relatively thin coats (1/8&quot;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of such a product is Henry 345 - Premixed Patch and Level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go to the flooring section of a big box store, there may be additional options better suited to your need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/p/Henry-345-1-gal-Premixed-Patch-and-Level-12064/202046253&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homedepot.com/p/Henry-345-1-gal-Premixed-Patch-and-Level-12064/202046253&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T00:08:58.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3446" CreationDate="2016-02-26T00:24:23.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like the long dimension is perpendicular to the direction of the boards and having a laminated edge along the long span does not help. The problem is that you essentially have a beam spanning between the legs on the edge shown in the photo that has a no coherent wood fibers running the full length. Instead they're broken every 1 1/2&quot;.  The glue helps but as you have experienced, it is inadequate. You could probably get by adding a single 2x4 board along the exposed face of the end boards.  Ideally it should be keyed in like a breadboard end. It should have a mortise and tenon connection or a wood spline keyed into the exposed 2x4 ends and the new edge board and be glued only in the center.  You can fasten it with screws further out on the slotted connection and apply wood plugs to hide the screws.&#xA;Another option is to create a concealed support under the table. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T00:24:23.420" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3451" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3459" CreationDate="2016-02-26T00:25:18.070" Score="0" ViewCount="145" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now that I know &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1315/what-is-a-shooting-board&quot;&gt;what a shooting board&lt;/a&gt; is I want to make one. I see several videos on youtube on how to make one, but what should I be watching for and keep in mind?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the steps in building a shooting board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T16:03:57.083" Title="What are the steps in building a shooting board?" Tags="|hand-tools|jig|hand-planing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-02-26T13:51:05.600" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3430" CreationDate="2016-02-26T00:29:24.440" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Peace of mind really. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got one, way over spec'd for my shop size and it does a really good job of picking up the dust (based on the crap I have to clean out of it). But generally the dust wasn't too noticeable before hand anyway until it had had some time to build up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MDF etc I make an effort to cut outside and you should always be wearing a mask anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me, the filter was more for family and the rest of the house - stops the dust from migrating through the house and messing up everybody elses lungs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So from a practical stand point, the shop seems no cleaner (still get piles of shavings etc on the floor) and it hasn't changed my work flow (i still wear a mask, and cut MDF outside if possible), but a large chunk of the fine particulate is (presumably) no longer floating around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="282" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T00:29:24.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3453" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3461" CreationDate="2016-02-26T00:33:15.897" Score="2" ViewCount="589" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read references to a morse taper on WW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is a morse taper? How does it work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there are other similar competing attachment types that a woodworker should know about? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T21:19:35.713" Title="What is a morse taper?" Tags="|lathe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3447" CreationDate="2016-02-26T00:33:22.647" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't expect decent cuts unless you paying them per cut to do so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These guys are (probably mostly untrained) retail staff doing a job and they'll just want to get it done as quick as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get them to cut oversize (leaving square reference corners if possible) and then cut down yourself at home. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could (as you say) premark the boards) and then stress you want them to follow it, but I think I'd be struggling to measure and mark square lines on a sheet of ply in a store without bringing my big square etc with me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Not the answer you want I know - sorry!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="282" LastEditorUserId="282" LastEditDate="2016-02-26T00:35:05.827" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T00:35:05.827" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3140" CreationDate="2016-02-26T00:53:34.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This doesn't answer for a drill press specifically, but is the method I use for choosing any major power tool purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) I determine the price range breakdowns for a given tool. You will see natural breaks in manufacturer pricing across a given variable. Often it is hobbyist, pro-sumer, proffesional, industrial or something like that. The size of the motor will usually be a key factor. Quality of key mechanics will also matter - such as bearings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) I identify 3 models in the price range I'm comfortable with. I do this by looking around on the web to see what other people suggest and so forth. Often tool round-ups on blogs or buying guides in woodworking publications work for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Next I make a chart of the specifications that seem pertinent to the tool and put this in a research document for my tool. Here is an example for a bandsaw purchase:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oSsUn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oSsUn.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) I then create a section in my research document for each model and start digging around on the web for more pros and cons. I list them under each models section with links.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5) I search for specific gripes on each tool of the 3 chosen. Some models of tools seem to be known for certain problems - some you can live with or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6) I look for any oddities with respect to repair or upkeep of the tool. If the tool has an oddball proprietary chuck or something, might be a no-go if you're hoping to run to a box store and buy replacements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7) I check forums on the tools. Again documenting with links any issues or advantages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8) I see if I can find the tool in a store. And I watch several videos of the tool in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;9) Look for deals on the tool. Sometimes a tool needs to be shipped - but freight can be averted in the right circumstance. There's also the chance that it will go on sale at a certain time. I will contact sellers of the tool and specifically ask that question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10) Buy the tool. Examine it when it arrives and make sure everything is functioning properly and there's no damage - contacting the seller immediately if there's any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T00:53:34.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="430" CreationDate="2016-02-26T01:15:13.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After asking a similar question and doing some research I have found a novel alternative. Use a sawz-all, or reciprocating saw, to just cut all the nails free, then remove the tops with a punch and hammer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Searching for &quot;DiResta: Pallet Toolbox&quot; will result in the following youtube video demonstrating this technique.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=deYFCJTDKtk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=deYFCJTDKtk&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T01:15:13.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3457" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3484" CreationDate="2016-02-26T01:35:50.987" Score="1" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read many references to tear out and want to understand this better. In paragraph five of &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/3302/1861&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; to a tear out question, Bowlturner says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Sharper gouges are more likely to cut the fibers instead of pulling them out and causing this problem. &lt;strong&gt;It took me a while to figure these things out&lt;/strong&gt;.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does a torn fiber look like compared to cut fiber?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there other ways to know if fiber is tearing instead of cutting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T18:44:58.410" Title="What does a torn fiber look like compared to a cut fiber?" Tags="|turning|lathe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3458" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3485" CreationDate="2016-02-26T02:18:04.457" Score="4" ViewCount="14673" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of making a very large slab for a table. But I don't have enough pole clamps or long enough poles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are ratchet straps suitable for clamping glued boards together for a table?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a noted practice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone tried this with success? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="1861" LastEditDate="2016-02-26T02:25:01.050" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T16:09:48.470" Title="Are ratchet straps suitable for clamping glued boards together for a table?" Tags="|clamps|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3451" CreationDate="2016-02-26T02:19:25.993" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Making a shooting board can be complicated or trivial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trivial: Stack two pieces of dense plywood, with the lower one extending outward beneath a good straight edge on the upper one. Attach a straight block to the top at the desired angle (usually 90 or 45 degrees) to the straight edge, extending right up to that edge, to act as a fence. (If in doubt, overshoot the edge a bit and let the first use of the board plane it flush).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to attach another block on the bottom to act as a &quot;bench hook&quot; to hold it stable against the bench edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to use a file or handsaw to cut a bit of a kerf at the junction of the two layers of base. This gives sawdust someplace to go rather than being trapped between the plane-guide edge and the plane, and helps keep a build-up there from making your cuts less accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From that minimal solution, you can go upward and become as complicated as you like... better materials, multiple angles, adjustable/replacable fences, ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2016-02-26T16:03:57.083" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T16:03:57.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3460" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3486" CreationDate="2016-02-26T02:22:22.080" Score="4" ViewCount="229" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen wood being burned for spears in movies. I've also seen people burn wood for Sho Sugi Ban finishing technique. But....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does burning wood increase any mechanical proprieties?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other advantages to burning wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-03-02T17:47:19.710" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T17:47:19.710" Title="Does burning wood increase any mechanical proprieties?" Tags="|technique|finishing|physical-protection|thermally-modified|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3453" CreationDate="2016-02-26T02:31:51.433" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A morse taper is actually a metal/machining term rather than a woodworking term per se. It refers to a specific way of attaching (typically) a machine's working head to its motorized shaft, that being to have a precisely tapered hole cut into the end of the shaft and a piece of shaft on the head which is ground to a matching taper to exactly fit that hole. The match is accurate enough that, after being tapped togetger, the two pieces grip each other strongly and transfer the required torque with essentially no slipping. It takes a significant amount of force to break the friction and separate them again, but not so much that you can't do it when needed to change working heads or maintain the machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several sizes of tnis connection, standardized so if the machine says it accepts a #2 Morse taper anything labelled that way will fit it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a woodshop you'll see these, and Jacobs tapers, most often on lathe fittings and in the mounting of a drill-press head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machine_taper#Morse&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machine_taper#Morse&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2016-02-26T21:19:35.713" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T21:19:35.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3462" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3476" CreationDate="2016-02-26T02:33:48.453" Score="4" ViewCount="16923" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried making consistent 45 degree bevels to create a cube. Cutting all edges of 6 perfect squares on the table saw with blade tilted. I also used a guide. But, regardless, there were slight variations in each piece making for an imperfect cube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the finer points to using a table saw for bevel cuts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I cut a 45 degree bevel on a table saw with consistent dimensions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="1861" LastEditDate="2016-02-28T06:21:38.990" LastActivityDate="2017-07-12T17:12:47.333" Title="How do I cut a 45 degree bevel on a table saw with consistent dimensions?" Tags="|table-saw|tolerance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3463" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3488" CreationDate="2016-02-26T02:46:07.923" Score="10" ViewCount="1919" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen hand drills hanging on walls in restaurants and at rummage sales.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there still a place for &quot;hand drills&quot; in a modern woodshop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2016-02-26T15:24:02.357" LastActivityDate="2022-05-09T16:00:35.817" Title="Is there still a place for &quot;hand drills&quot; in a modern woodshop?" Tags="|hand-tools|drilling|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3464" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3480" CreationDate="2016-02-26T02:47:48.267" Score="8" ViewCount="5727" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen hand drills that look like egg-beaters and I've seen hand drills that look like whirly-gig-a-thingys. Are there others?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the main different types of &quot;hand drills&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2017-11-19T21:04:50.287" Title="What are the main different types of &quot;hand drills&quot;?" Tags="|hand-tools|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3465" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3507" CreationDate="2016-02-26T02:53:50.470" Score="1" ViewCount="749" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made this tensegrity cube using dowel rods and eye screws. The eye screws were hard to install and didn't work well due to twisting and coming loose. I'm imagining a cap like hardware for dowels that allow you to attach other things. In this case running wire through them. Do such &quot;caps&quot; exist?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is a hardware attachment for dowels rods that allow for running wire through the ends?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qMi82.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qMi82.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-03-02T16:41:55.790" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T16:41:55.790" Title="What is a hardware attachment for dowel rods that allow for running wire through the ends?" Tags="|joinery|dowel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3466" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3500" CreationDate="2016-02-26T03:01:21.720" Score="3" ViewCount="1254" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a picture frame while avoiding the routing involved to inset the picture, glass, and supporting backer into the back of the frame. The wood trim and molding at big box stores looks a lot like picture frames. Is there a suitable type of trim/molding for making picture frames easily?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can a picture frame be made from wood molding from a DIY/Big Box store?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T08:04:16.070" Title="Can a picture frame be made from wood molding from a DIY/Big Box store?" Tags="|framing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3467" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3473" CreationDate="2016-02-26T03:12:53.047" Score="3" ViewCount="2526" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used 2x4's on my catapult. But I'd like to make it beefier with more throwing power. The body is pressure treated wood, and eventually I'd like to add more garage springs or other counter force measures. But I need a better arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of wood should be used in constructing a catapult arm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O3cBZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O3cBZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T17:09:29.017" Title="What kind of wood should be used in constructing a catapult arm?" Tags="|wood-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3468" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3518" CreationDate="2016-02-26T03:22:00.547" Score="4" ViewCount="3837" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking at boomerangs and ran across the term &quot;aircraft plywood&quot;. Going further they just seem to be talking about spruce as in &quot;spruce goose&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the term &quot;aircraft plywood&quot; have any special significance, use, or connotation for woodworkers. Is it of a higher quality than regular spruce?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is aircraft plywood? What is it used for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2016-02-26T04:45:58.003" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T22:11:39.490" Title="What is aircraft plywood? What is it used for?" Tags="|plywood|terminology|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3469" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-26T03:44:04.470" Score="1" ViewCount="569" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm good at accidentally splitting wood. I'm also flummoxed by the variety of screws available for wood working projects. Not wanting to &quot;screw up&quot; some nice hardwood:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is a different type of screw preferred for screwing into softwood vs hardwood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does pitch or thread to shank ratio matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T03:44:04.470" Title="Is a different type of screw preferred for screwing into softwood vs hardwood?" Tags="|fasteners|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-02-26T13:48:25.630" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3470" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3481" CreationDate="2016-02-26T03:48:43.160" Score="6" ViewCount="16994" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried using a really long thin drill bit that probably had a different purpose (like maybe drywall stuff) to put a hole in a tobacco pipe project. But the bit blew out the side of the wood because it didn't drill straight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This pipe is about 20 inches long, and I need to drill about 16 of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I put a really long narrow straight hole in a piece of wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2022-02-11T17:30:41.520" Title="How do I put a really long narrow straight hole in a piece of wood?" Tags="|drilling|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3468" CreationDate="2016-02-26T04:45:21.733" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plywood#Aircraft_plywood&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;From Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aircraft plywood&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High-strength plywood also known as aircraft plywood, is made from mahogany and/or birch, and uses adhesives with increased resistance to heat and humidity. It was used for several World War II fighter aircraft. Although the British-built Mosquito bomber, nicknamed &amp;quot;The Wooden Wonder&amp;quot;, was constructed of a plywood monocoque, this was formed in moulds from individual veneers of birch, balsa and birch, rather than machined from pre-laminated plywood sheets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Structural aircraft-grade plywood is more commonly manufactured from African mahogany or American birch veneers that are bonded together in a hot press over hardwood cores of basswood or poplar or from European Birch veneers throughout. Basswood is another type of aviation-grade plywood that is lighter and more flexible than mahogany and birch plywood but has slightly less structural strength. Aviation-grade plywood is manufactured to a number of specifications including those outlined since 1931 in the Germanischer Lloyd Rules for Surveying and Testing of Plywood for Aircraft and MIL-P-607, the latter of which calls for shear testing after immersion in boiling water for three hours to verify the adhesive qualities between the plies and meets specifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T04:45:21.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3467" CreationDate="2016-02-26T06:23:58.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume your question is not so much size (you mention 2x4, but not what type you are using).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try ash or hickory for their spring and flexibility.  Either should give you some extra kick beyond what you get with your counterweights or springs.  @Graphus points out that it &quot;Might be worth specifying hickory sapwood here, as the heartwood is much less springy. This is why it's specifically avoided in quality axe, pick and sledge handles — they should be uniformly pale, no reddish heartwood.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clear, straight grain is a must no matter what wood you use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-02-26T17:09:29.017" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T17:09:29.017" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3458" CreationDate="2016-02-26T06:32:30.857" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ratchet straps go around things and hold them together, so yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, you don't want to damage your piece, so take whatever steps are necessary to prevent that (e.g. cardboard or cloth pads at contact points, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/p/BESSEY-23-ft-Variable-Angle-Strap-Clamp-VAS-23-2K/204958408&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;strap clamps&lt;/a&gt;, which usually come with some nice little corner things to help distribute the load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you try it once you'll get used to how much you can tighten them without hurting anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2016-02-26T16:09:48.470" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T16:09:48.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3427" CreationDate="2016-02-26T07:02:04.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's called marking your wood with a pencil, it's just a thing you can do with pencils. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you're going to make a cut with a saw, you might pencil in a line and then cut there. Or if you're going to sand/scrape a surface evenly, you might scribble pencil all over it then sand the marks off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to shape something with a drawknife, a logical way to proceed might be to mark your goals then shape until you get there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You won't be able to find videos specifically about this technique because marking things with e.g. pencils is sort of a given.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is to keep finding shaping / carving videos until you find one shot by somebody who decided to use a pencil. Or just try it. Put a pencil mark on a piece of wood then practice cutting to it with a drawknife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T07:02:04.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3462" CreationDate="2016-02-26T07:28:49.727" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do this a lot. That is, I cut 24 bevels on 6 squares of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first trick is get your blade set at a 45 degree angle.  Since I started using a digital level (Wixie Digit) it has made the task much easier. Otherwise, you would need to make repeated cuts on scrap until you get your angle. (Two pieces placed bevel to bevel will form a right angle that you can check with a try-square.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N3hPv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N3hPv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Using the digital level at 45 degrees&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next trick is to use a dedicated sled with the slot cut at 45 degrees to the saw table top. It doesn't have to be a full size sled unless you are making large cubes.  My sled also has lever-clamp and an adjustable stop (held in position by the two wing-nuts).  It's hard to see the piece under the clamp, but it's there.  Notice I have stop block clamped into the saw slot to prevent overrun and the blade guard behind the sled fence. The blade has not been lowered, yet, since it was raised to set the tilt angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sSAPY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sSAPY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The sled&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gives me perfect 45 degree beveled pieces every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5ZJa1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5ZJa1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Clamped assemblage&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I glue the pieces together using yellow glue and clamp with rubber bands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T07:28:49.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3464" CreationDate="2016-02-26T11:25:31.057" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is the &quot;whirly-gig-a-thing&quot; you refer to is a Brace &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brace_(tool)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brace_(tool)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="495" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T11:25:31.057" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3470" CreationDate="2016-02-26T11:29:51.097" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think a hole this long is possible with any conventional drill bit, and finding a suitable one of this length which would be difficult to say the least. And anyway there is a significant problem with drift or wander, particularly when drilling into end grain as you might be here. &lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; this is even if the drilling is done on a drill press, the amount of wander can be quite amazing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even in the past when very long drill bits were more commonly seen as part of the woodworking tool kit (either augers to be turned directly with a wooden handle, or for use with a brace) once you got to very long lengths &lt;em&gt;in relation to the diameter of the hole&lt;/em&gt; it was common to use specialist bits made for that purpose only, for example shell bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a modern shell auger to give an idea of what the traditional style looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EYlz3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EYlz3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Modern shell auger bit&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect the only way you'll achieve this length of hole is if you can find a suitable shell auger bit or are willing to go to the trouble of making your own. You'd start the hole with a normal bit or matching diameter, then slip the shell bit into the hole and continue from there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T11:29:51.097" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3464" CreationDate="2016-02-26T12:07:53.060" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The drills you refer to as looking like egg beaters are in fact called eggbeaters by some people (precisely because of the resemblance). They are sometimes plainly called &lt;strong&gt;hand drills&lt;/strong&gt;, as well as &lt;strong&gt;wheel braces&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a Millers Falls hand drill (restored), revered as one of the best of its kind and still much sought after by woodworkers as well as by collectors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tiRc1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tiRc1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Miller&amp;#39;s Falls eggbeater&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are only suitable for drilling holes up to a fairly limited diameter, e.g 1/4&quot; or 6mm, and sometimes not in particularly hard or tough woods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other type you refer to is probably the &lt;strong&gt;brace&lt;/strong&gt; or more fully the &lt;strong&gt;swing brace&lt;/strong&gt;. These started out as all-wood affairs, then wood with brass or iron/steel banding and eventually evolved into the all-steel versions with a ratchet mechanism we're more familiar with today. Here's a fairly typical-looking modern one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NWwYj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NWwYj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Larson swing brace&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; unlike all other drills mentioned in this Answer that accept multiple bits, the swing brace can be the only one that can't be used with modern round-shaft bits. More modern braces can effectively grip a round shank, but traditionally the jaws in the chuck were made to grip a characteristic tapered-square enlargement at the base of the shaft, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3330/what-drove-the-design-for-the-traditional-tang&quot;&gt;see illustration in previous Question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also the &lt;strong&gt;breast drill&lt;/strong&gt;, some of which are like larger versions of the eggbeater with exposed wheels, but with two handles and breastplate. Others have enclosed mechanisms such as here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CUsNM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CUsNM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Breast drill&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The enclosed mechanism on breast drills is sometimes merely the same wheel and pinions as on a hand drill, just protected from dust, but can on other models be something more complex and sophisticated, allowing more torque and multiple speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional hand-powered drills that are still sometimes seen include the &lt;strong&gt;Archimedean drill&lt;/strong&gt;, which developed into the &lt;strong&gt;push drill&lt;/strong&gt; (sometimes generically referred to as the Yankee drill) which often has a reversing mechanism:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KpdRm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KpdRm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Archimedean drill and push drill&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other small drills as well which have no mechanism at all and are just a bit of some sort set into a wooden handle, or held in a chuck of some type. Most drills like this are intended for small, shallow holes and are not commonly used in woodworking (in the West) but do have a place, e.g. in box making where the hinges can be fixed with very small screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T18:24:20.683" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3470" CreationDate="2016-02-26T12:10:05.263" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do it without using a drill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://pencils.com/pencil-making-today/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;how pencils are made&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cut some square stock to length&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;saw it in half lengthways&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cut a groove in each half&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;glue the halves together&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shape the outside (e.g. using a spokeshave and dowel plate)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yvAyMB5RbtE&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;useful video&lt;/a&gt; of using a drill to make a hole in dowel. In summary the technique shown is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;start with well oversize dowel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use a variety of drill bit lengths starting with the shortest&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;drill very slowly, a quarter-inch at a time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use a spirit-level on the drill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shape the dowel after drilling to take into account&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the direction of the hole (which won't emerge at centre)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the curvature of the hole (ruling out using a lathe)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="158" LastEditorUserId="158" LastEditDate="2016-02-27T11:55:55.370" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T11:55:55.370" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3467" CreationDate="2016-02-26T12:38:53.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found a few sources mentioning that Douglas Fir is good for trebuchet arms. Presumably it'd be just as good for a catapult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shubs.net/howard/scotland/UrquhartCastle.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.shubs.net/howard/scotland/UrquhartCastle.html&lt;/a&gt; - There's quite a large trebuchet here which has been built (frame and throwing arm) out of Douglas Fir for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T12:38:53.347" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3457" CreationDate="2016-02-26T15:02:37.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you look at the picture provided by the OP of that question, you will see the pits where the fibers where pulled/yanked from the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fZKQf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fZKQf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;here is what a good clean cut fiber looks like &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/67oty.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/67oty.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="1861" LastEditDate="2016-02-26T18:44:58.410" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T18:44:58.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3458" CreationDate="2016-02-26T15:11:02.990" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;yes, and no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used ratchet straps to hold things for glue to set, mostly awkward shapes that don't lend themselves to nice straight clamps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things you need to consider when using them though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You don't want to clue the straps to your piece, so you'll want to take care where the glue squeezes out.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;you don't want to mar your surface with the ratchet, so take similar precautions maybe putting a piece of cardboard under the ratchet as you tighten it down.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For long pieces you'll need to use a straight board to keep the straps from 'bending' the glue joints and getting a 'cupping' of your boards. (this is a worry even with bar clamps, but much more so with ratchet straps since they don't even have a rigid bar to fight the 'rounding' action.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T15:11:02.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3460" CreationDate="2016-02-26T15:20:02.397" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not the burning of wood, it's the heating of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By heating it one of the things that happens is you remove the moisture from the wood.  This makes it more physically stable.  Letting a stick dry out in the sun will have similar properties (as long as it isn't in the rain).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moisture helps keep wood supple and when you want to push a stick into someone/thing that is not a good quality to have.  So heating removes moisture and sets the cellular structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T15:20:02.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3463" CreationDate="2016-02-26T15:31:24.627" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the 'modern' wood shop? not really.  drill presses and cordless drills can do almost anything you would do with a hand drill, faster and easier with less training.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, they do still have a place.  Many people like doing woodworking with differing levels of 'old school' tools and some times it's just nice to have quiet tools in your shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have plenty of old tools in my shop and I keep collecting more.  Sometimes they just give you the look your are going for on a piece or give you a deeper feeling of satisfaction when you have completed it, giving real elbow grease to the product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T15:31:24.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3463" CreationDate="2016-02-26T15:48:43.820" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not so much in woodworking, but there are times when my wheel brace is my drill of choice -- when I'm much more concerned about control than speed, especially on thin, slightly flexible plastic.  Here's an example: drilling drainage holes in a compost bin.  A cordless, even on low speed, grabs and pulls through, a wheel brace doesn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do sometimes use it for pilot holes in softwood, perhaps if the cordless has a clearance-size bit in it or is on charge.  This tends to be for fairly rough work (e.g. joining 2x2s for a jig, where the 3-in-1 bits don't work because the holes are too deep).  But I also tend to use spiral ratchet (Yankee) drivers rather than swapping a screwdriver bit into the drill (I used to have and frequently use some pilot bits that fitted into it via a 1/4&amp;quot; hex adaptor -- another form of hand drill).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A carpenter's brace (brace and bit) can still be handy for occasional woodworkers using flat/spade bits, if the only available power drill is too fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other point I've recently experienced: Teaching basic skills to children is good with hand tools.  My daughter (8) is happy to use my eggbeater drill (that I had at a similar age), but finds power drills rather scary as well as heavy.  I will get her using my small drill press at some point, but not yet.  Hand tools also give leaners a feel for the work that power tools don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2022-05-09T16:00:35.817" LastActivityDate="2022-05-09T16:00:35.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3466" CreationDate="2016-02-26T18:37:52.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the UK / Germany, so it might be different where you are. However all the big DIY stores I have seen, have mouldings designed for picture frames in their stock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a single example: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hornbach.de/shop/Bilderrahmenleiste-kiefer-roh-22x46x2000-mm/5491105/artikel.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.hornbach.de/shop/Bilderrahmenleiste-kiefer-roh-22x46x2000-mm/5491105/artikel.html&lt;/a&gt;  (I'm assuming you can't read the text, but the pictures should work).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And in case the link rots, here is the cross section (note, the dimension are in mm :-) ) &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/opY7k.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/opY7k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cross section of picture frame molding for sale in German DIY shed&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1646" LastEditorUserId="1646" LastEditDate="2016-09-26T08:04:16.070" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T08:04:16.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3470" CreationDate="2016-02-26T18:43:50.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the bit blew out the side of the wood because it didn't drill straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you already identified your problem.  When you start doing things where small misalignments can lead to large issues, setup is key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've made a couple pipes before, though the draft hole was only about 3&amp;quot; long.  Even that took a large amount of measuring and tweaking to get the bit to exactly where I needed it and to drill straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This pipe is about 20 inches long, and I need to drill about 16 of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I won't lie, what you're trying to do is &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; difficult.  Your pipe stem is likely thin to begin with, so you have very little margin for error in the setup of your drill bit.  The only advice I can give is to check, re-check, and re-re-check your alignment before drilling and hope that the bit doesn't wander through the cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2022-02-11T17:30:41.520" LastActivityDate="2022-02-11T17:30:41.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3463" CreationDate="2016-02-26T18:57:25.310" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the type of question that unfortunately tends to yield primarily opinion-based answers, but I think it's one of a number of exceptions to this being a bad fit for SE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My answer is a definitive yes. Not only do I think hand drills have a place in the modern woodworking shop — regardless of the dominance of power tools otherwise — there are many cases where they should be &lt;em&gt;preferred&lt;/em&gt;. You could argue I am slightly biased because I have a few and use them regularly, but there are many sound reasons to use them in specific circumstances instead of a power drill (of any type, but particularly cordless drills).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just as with hand tools more generally two of the main reasons they can be a good idea are they can be used where no electricity is available and they are much quieter than the power-tool equivalent (virtually silent in many cases as the only sound heard is the bit working away in the wood). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally. another common hand-tool argument: they are usually much cheaper. Vintage and antique eggbeaters and swing braces of excellent quality are available on the secondhand market to many in the West for less than their modern counterparts, and are incidentally better than nearly anything currently manufactured&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. And needless to say they are much cheaper than most power drills&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, just a fraction of the cost of certain name-brand drills (a tenth or less)!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously not everything is in favour of the hand drill and the high speed of powered drills will generally give far faster results, particularly in hardwoods. And with power drilling some bit types will yield cleaner entry holes in wood (and note that certain modern bits are definitely most effective in power drills, Forstner bits being one example). However, drilling by hand is one of the few cases where the hand-powered version of something can actually be &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; powerful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a swing brace you have far more torque available to you, with maximum torque considered as virtually unlimited by some sources, depending on brace type and the strength of the user. So plainly more than almost any portable power drill can provide, but especially battery models for obvious reasons. Particularly when using a purpose-made bit such as an Irwin or Jennings auger, sharp and with a lead screw in good condition, a sizeable hole (1&quot; / 25mm and up) can be made in strong hardwoods such as oak with surprising speed, and without the back-breaking effort one might imagine. By comparison many powered drills will struggle to do the same hole once it gets to a certain depth, and some will simply stall and be unable to continue drilling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Examples from boutique tool makers are the exception but they tend to be eye-wateringly expensive, and frankly it appears most are bought as an investment or simply to look pretty on the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; In the UK and parts of the US it's easy to come by both eggbeaters and braces in decent condition (fully functional, just with cosmetic issues) for less than a tenner, sometimes less than a fiver. And as numerous forum posts and restoration guides tell us it's not completely unheard of to snag £1 / $1 bargains because of lots of visible rust, or the seller not appreciating what they have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2018-11-30T08:06:23.290" LastActivityDate="2018-11-30T08:06:23.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3365" CreationDate="2016-02-26T19:06:26.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For bandsaws I just use this page from the MSC catalog, it is basically just a chart of thickness and TPI. There are also a bunch of other useful product guides in that catalog, like for drills and stuff. I'm sure other vendors or supply companies have their versions of this too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mscdirect.com/FlyerView?pagelabel=1600&amp;amp;search=03166220&amp;amp;contentPath=/sales-catalogs/big-book&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.mscdirect.com/FlyerView?pagelabel=1600&amp;amp;search=03166220&amp;amp;contentPath=/sales-catalogs/big-book&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="453" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T19:06:26.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3493" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3494" CreationDate="2016-02-26T20:41:34.970" Score="5" ViewCount="522" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sadly have no additional space for a real/standalone workbench, but what i do have is a powerrack (a cage made of steel used for weightlifting). Looking at one half ot it, it looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i1x5Z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i1x5Z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a piece of wood that i can lay over those bars and use it as a simple Desk, but this alone is too shaky for using it as a workbench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for ideas how I can put the piece of wood on there really tight. I don't want to modify anything on the metal side, and once finished attaching/detaching the wood should not take more than a few minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My only idea is using something like hose clamps to fix the wood to the bars. Do you have other/better ideas how i can do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like the ideas so far, and in fact I already have something like Jason suggested in place (only on the insides). This works fine for using it as a desk, as it cant move left to right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But for using it for woodworking, i am planning on putting a vice on it. If i then put force on the workpiece in the vice in direction of the bars, I fear the whole thing will tilt in that direction as it only relies on gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r6qTz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r6qTz.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Viewing from the side, black is the rack&amp;amp;bar, blue is the wood, green is the vice, brown the workpiece. If force is applied in direction of the red arrow, it will probably tilt like the orange arrow indicates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1923" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2016-10-30T18:12:34.460" Title="How can I fix wood to some metal in a neither destructive nor permanent way" Tags="|workbench|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3493" CreationDate="2016-02-26T21:51:55.150" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd add four simple blocks of wood to the underside of your work surface.  I made this out of 2x4x6&quot; long scrap.  Drill hole in center with fostner bit, then use jig saw to cut access groove.  With deep groove, this one isn't going anywhere.  You simply drop the worksurface onto the bars. Obviously this picture is upside down.  You should use some flush mount screws to hold this block to your work surface.   Quick, easy, cheap, use all three!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OdROI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OdROI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Block of wood&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, I'm assuming you have very little overhang at the ends of your table top.  You don't want to have the table flip up because someone placed a heavy load at the cantilevered end of the table.  You always want the heavy loads to be between the steel supports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Update to match the restatement of the original issue above. 9PM PST, 27 Feb 2016:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Okay, lets use the same basic design, but we'll change things up a tiny bit.  We're not going to be cutting a deep groove, instead we'll flip the whole wood piece around, drill two 7/16&quot; holes. (i.e. 3/8&quot; plus clearance!)  Now you are going to have to drill eight 3/8&quot; countersink holes in your work top.  You will need eight standard countersink bolts, eight washers and eight wingnuts.  Obviously you will be bolting the bars tight at the hold down in each corner of the worktop.  Does this make sense?  It's still pretty easy to make; it will take a few minutes to tighten up eight wingnuts, but for the actual tabletop install, no tools are required.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WklYX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WklYX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;block of wood&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The block of wood will rest on the bottom of the bar.  3/8&quot;-16 bolts will keep things way tight.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RH6DA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RH6DA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;standard countersink machine bolt&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/15gGQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/15gGQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wingnut&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is similar in concept to the design from Daniel B, but I'm thinking this is pretty easy to make.  Oh.. note on safety.  Its okay to drill a hole in an edge like that if you are using a Forstner bit on a drill press.  If you don't have those tools, you can use a spade bit in the center of a WIDE block, then cut the block narrow after you've drilled the hole.  Trying to drill a hole in the edge of a piece of wood with a spade bit is much too dangerous.  Be careful out there!  If you don't have a table saw, you can easily use a hand saw to safely do the post drilling cuts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="343" LastEditorUserId="343" LastEditDate="2016-02-28T05:00:40.623" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T05:00:40.623" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3493" CreationDate="2016-02-27T01:04:08.523" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Conceptually similar to &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/3494/1250&quot;&gt;zipzit's answer&lt;/a&gt;, another thing you can do is just mount some 1x2 strips or whatever to the underside of your surface, hugging the bars (you may want to mount one, then place it on the bar and hold the other one in place for a tight fit), e.g. (not to any sort of scale):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A1bcw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A1bcw.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may even be able to get away without the inner set, or without the outer set, or without one of the pairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either screw through the top through countersunk holes, or you could do pocket holes from the bottom if you have the setup to make them, or deep counterbored holes from the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To keep it from slipping along the axis of the bars you could just stick a wedge in the side, like a door stop or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the table wobbles or chatters a little, a rubber strip or perhaps a strip of that stick-on insulation foam you'd use on drafty windows could do the trick; stuck to the underside of the table along the length of the bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to go &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; simple, just mount &lt;em&gt;one&lt;/em&gt; of the strips, then attach it to the nearest bar with a c-clamp (or quick clamp) or two. That'll guarantee a snug grip (sorry, didn't feel like drawing clamps):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B2cWQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B2cWQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use some clamps with rubber feet to avoid marring your bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-10-30T18:12:34.460" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3493" CreationDate="2016-02-27T01:21:47.603" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the theme of your own idea, you can use a hose clamp to fasten a short length of 2x4, parallel to the uprights, on the &quot;inside&quot; of the rack. You would then balance your work surface on these boards. There is a risk you might damage the paint/powdercoat on the rack, so you might want to use one piece of wood on either side (with larger hose clamps) to make a &quot;sandwich&quot; around the metal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1925" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T01:21:47.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3497" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3499" CreationDate="2016-02-27T07:34:29.193" Score="8" ViewCount="40465" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently made the main body of a box by taking a solid piece of wood and drilling out the inside with the largest drill bit I had. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used the drill over and over until I had a squarish hole inside by accumulation of round holes. Then I took a chisel to the inside edges to knock off chunks. Finally I dremmeled and sanded. I didn't have a perfect cube of air inside my cube of wood - but it wasn't too bad. Just a lot of work and it felt amateurish. There must be a better way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I hollow out a square hole in a solid piece of wood to make a box?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2022-06-12T05:50:45.217" Title="How can I hollow out a square hole in a solid piece of wood to make a box?" Tags="|boxes|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3497" CreationDate="2016-02-27T08:45:34.863" Score="11" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How can I hollow out a square hole in a solid piece of wood to make a box?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are multiple ways this might be done, going back to a stone-age method where you'd burn out the hollow, but there are two main methods I think would be employed today depending on the philosophy or preference of the individual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;'By hand'&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The first manual method is actually exactly what you describe doing: drill out the bulk of the material and then clean up with a chisel (followed by use of hand-held router if a flat bottom is desired). So it is not an amateurish method at all. For example on almost all craftsman-made traditional oilstone boxes the recess for the stone was created in exactly this way as can be seen if you lift the stone: the flat bottom will almost invariable be peppered with holes from the lead screw of an auger or the spur in the centre of a Forstner bit used to hog out most of the material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boxes were not commonly made this way in the past, but square recesses or let-ins were; for lock bodies, hidden compartments and for mortises in mortise-and-tenon joinery of course, and I think it's likely this would have been one of only two methods used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only main difference today is that most would use a power drill to do the drilling, although doing it with a brace is still just as viable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other main manual method is pure hand work, that would be to cut the hole by chisel only. Obviously this represents &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; of effort and it's by no means the best way, but it is feasible if it was the only option open to the woodworker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Router&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Today of course we have power tools so it's likely that a lot of modern-day woodworkers would choose to use a router for this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's more than one way to do this with a router. Firstly careful freehand work could be used to remove most of the wood, followed by clean up with a sharp chisel or two just as if you'd drilled many holes. Secondly by running the router against a number of battens or straightedges clamped firmly in place. And thirdly by creating a template which a bearing on a suitable bit would ride against, allowing the cutting of the full shape in one operation. In the second and third case round corners would result, which could be left if liked (not just for aesthetics, they make the corners of the box stronger) or squared up with chisels if preferred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case it needs to be stated if a router is used especially on a small box the workpiece &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; be very securely held to the table as the potential for it to be launched across the shop is high. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: for best results it's best to gauge or knife the perimeter of the recess to help ensure a clean, crisp edge is left after work. Even using a router this can help but it's almost mandatory when using hand methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;Cheating&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There's another method to consider if it wouldn't harm the aesthetics as you see them: make the body of the box in two pieces. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the main challenges with this is forming the flat bottom, this method sidesteps that difficulty entirely. The main body of the box is one thicker piece of wood which you can drill straight through. After you're done cleaning up the edges you simply glue on a thin piece of wood for the base. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want it to look like the box was hollowed this base piece is sawn from the wood used for the body, and with some luck with the grain directed and care taken with the glue-up once glued back on the join can be virtually invisible. This is slightly easier on darker woods, more difficult on light-coloured woods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T08:45:34.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3466" CreationDate="2016-02-27T09:54:25.007" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can a picture frame be made from wood molding from a DIY/Big Box store?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short answer: yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can of course make picture frames from just plain flat boards, even 2x material, so mouldings are certainly a workable starting point for a more elaborate surface profile than flat wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I want to make a picture frame while avoiding the routing involved to inset the picture, glass, and supporting backer into the back of the frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is actually the core of the question and it's actually easily resolved since you don't need to do any routing. You can use a build-up method instead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a cross section of some standard frame profiles with a routed groove along the back:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ekf3n.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ekf3n.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;One-piece picture frames&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shouldn't be hard too see that the top portion, the wide part, could be a bit of standard moulding from the DIY or big-box. The rabbet/rebate can simply be formed by glueing on a second, narrower, piece of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here's the built-up equivalent:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xMSXF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xMSXF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Built-up picture frames&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see this is really very simple and easy so I don't know why it isn't more commonly done by early or beginner woodworkers who don't have a router or other means to easily form the groove, but I suspect it's just that people don't think of it themselves. I know I hadn't, I read of this method in a book and it was an &quot;Ah-hah!&quot; moment because after you see it it does seem head-smackingly obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T09:54:25.007" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3497" CreationDate="2016-02-27T17:55:53.653" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;bandsaw box&quot; approach: cut a thin slice off the bottom of the piece, then make a cut in from the side and around the opening you want to create. The small cut in the side can be glued closed, and the solid bottom can be glued back on, almost indetectably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or: cut off the bottom, drill a hole through, feed a coping saw through the hole and cut outward rom there to remove the core without making that cut through the outside edge, and glue the bottom back on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Somewhat sloppy example, just playing around (first attempt, 2&quot; tall, using a scroll saw rather than a bandsaw):&#xA; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AqLsg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AqLsg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;assembled&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rt1h5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rt1h5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;disassembled&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2016-03-03T05:47:37.927" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T05:47:37.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3502" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3506" CreationDate="2016-02-27T20:41:05.300" Score="8" ViewCount="1464" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to drill a 10mm hole 200mm through timber 50mm wide. If these dimensions sound odd it's for a pin through a right angle finger join to another piece of the same size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I start centred 25mm from the three nearest vertical faces but even with a drill guide and some care it is very difficult to emerge centred in the opposite face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my drill press had 200mm of travel it would be just the ticket, but it doesn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a usual solution for this type of positioning problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the jig I eventually created from one 50mm length and two 300mm lengths of 50mm angle iron. Holes are 10mm diameter with centres 25mm from nearby faces. Cut, then drill, then assemble as illustrated clamped around a sample job. Tack weld, remove timber and strengthen welds. Do not weld the inside seam, it would foul on the job when using the jig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clamped flush onto the work-piece, this jig positions an auger bit and aligns it parallel to the 200mm tall vertical face. When the board is cupped, place it against the concave side for stable alignment. The guides are 100mm apart so a 190mm auger bit will drill about 80mm into the work-piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The jig can then be removed and the hole used to align the bit for drilling through with adequate precision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For optimal results combine this jig with the technique described in the accepted answer. For cupped boards this will require a double ended version of the jig due to the need for opposite chirality .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PprAS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PprAS.png&quot; alt=&quot;Jig&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1924" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T11:27:45.837" Title="Long travel drill guide" Tags="|drilling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3384" CreationDate="2016-02-27T21:51:54.367" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;if this is not a big project and you're just trying to get very close sized holes..  (maybe you don't want to punch through the other side),  i've used electrical tape on the drill bit.  just tape above the depth you want to stop.  when you hit the tape...  stop...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1929" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T21:51:54.367" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3502" CreationDate="2016-02-27T22:46:11.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can think of several approaches to try.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First is to drill with an long auger drill bit.  A new sharp bit with the screw tip on an auger may drill straight through better.  I do not know if you can get one to drill the whole 200mm, but if you get most of the way you can use a small long shaft standard drill bit to penetrate through to the other side and then enlargen the whole once it is through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/85zUe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/85zUe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an alternative, you can assemble the finger joint from separate pieces of wood, drill the holes in each and laminate them together with a dowel in the whole to properly align them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T22:46:11.640" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3493" CreationDate="2016-02-28T01:13:00.430" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You appear to be concerned about pressure causing your device to tip off the bars. Following from zipzit's solution ... I don't have access to drawing tools at the moment so I will try to be descriptive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take the shoe he has suggested and make another strip or plug or ... basically anything that fits in the slot and sticks out. Additionally, cut a groove perpendicular to the pipe groove on the side which mounts tot he table top. Put a ratchet strap through this groove. When you place the table over your bars, put the &quot;plug&quot; into the remaining opening of the shoe and wrap the strap around it. Ratchet the plug tight against the bar. This will help secure against lateral movement as well as prevent the table from flipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, and perhaps better, would be to have the shoe not fully enclose the bar. The strap would just press directly against the bar to secure the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;yet another option would be to use clevis pin held in place by a split pin (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clevis_fastener&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clevis_fastener&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a crappy picture which I hope explains my thinking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oFUeI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oFUeI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="180" LastEditDate="2016-02-28T05:59:14.540" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T05:59:14.540" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3502" CreationDate="2016-02-28T01:41:59.780" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The usual solution to this problem (let me to restate it in inches - a 3/8&quot; dia hole goes 8&quot; through a 2&quot; x 8&quot; board) is to drill from both ends of the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drill approximately half way through from one end of the hole, then drill from the desired exit point back towards the other end of the hole.  These two holes will most likely not meet exactly as you would hope, but will be a wee bit offset.  When you drill the second hole the bit will seek and follow the first hole and you will wind up with a hole beginning and ending exactly where you want it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hole will accept the dowel which will be perfectly tight at the ends and may be unnoticeably  loose in the center.  The pin might have to bend slightly on its way through the hole put can readily be pushed into position with a minimum of force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An advantage of this approach is that you will not have to worry about tear-out as the drill exits the other end of the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T01:41:59.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3465" CreationDate="2016-02-28T01:55:24.000" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try &lt;a href=&quot;http://wood-dowels.exceldowel.com/viewitems/dowel-rods-dowel-caps-finials/dowel-caps-and-connectors-plastic&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this location&lt;/a&gt; (there may be others, but this came up almost immediately when I Googled &quot;dowel caps&quot;.) for a selection of plastic dowel caps with eyelets. (see below from the afore mentioned link Unfortunately, at this location they want to sell them in quantities of 1000's.  I'm certain you can find sites that will sell to you in smaller amounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bZBcF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bZBcF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Functionally it should do the job for you.  It makes me consider doing some tensegrity constructions of my own.  Hey, I'm a child of the 60's. Myself, I would probably consider using wooden caps, but that's up to the designer/creator of the project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-02-28T02:46:04.267" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T02:46:04.267" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3508" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3513" CreationDate="2016-02-28T06:56:04.117" Score="3" ViewCount="728" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a several hundred 3&quot; inch pan head screws with a 1/8&quot; thread diameter aluminum (very light, has the look and feel of AL, thought the finish is dull) screws. They look like wood screws (sharp crested, course pitch). I didn't buy them so I don't know their original purpose. When I use them, even with a proper pilot hole, they tend to break once they're 3/4&quot; in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used hundreds of different kinds of screws for all kinds of things and never have I seen a type that breaks so easily. It seemed novel and must be for a specific purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are aluminum wood screws that break easily used for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="1861" LastEditDate="2016-02-28T07:25:10.073" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T10:12:44.130" Title="What are aluminum wood screws that break easily used for?" Tags="|screws|fasteners|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3509" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3511" CreationDate="2016-02-28T07:13:38.900" Score="6" ViewCount="3961" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often find myself attempting to sand small pieces of wood (1&quot;x1&quot;x1&quot; or less) on a benchtop belt sander. In the past I've used pliers to hold the piece being sanded, but not always with success. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there techniques to sand small parts on a benchtop belt sander?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-02-28T09:23:29.093" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T19:56:58.773" Title="Are there techniques to sand small parts on a benchtop belt sander?" Tags="|technique|power-tools|sanding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3510" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3515" CreationDate="2016-02-28T07:23:10.697" Score="4" ViewCount="1602" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two pictures below tend to be referenced as belt sanders. When I search the web for &quot;bench-top belt sander&quot;, images of bth types appear. The two tools look different enough to have distinguishing names. Friends and I have colloquially taken to calling the one &quot;ribbon belt sander&quot; because we don't know its additional name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are more specific names for these two style of bench-top belt sanders?&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uk5bW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uk5bW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tor3k.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tor3k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="1861" LastEditDate="2016-02-28T14:53:00.440" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T16:43:17.080" Title="What are more specific names for these two types of bench-top belt sanders?" Tags="|tools|sanding|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3509" CreationDate="2016-02-28T09:31:28.203" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;1 inch cubed is big enough that you could get smaller clamps on pretty easily (You can never have enough clamps). Not a spring clamp but something like a c-clamp where you could control the clamping power. Cloth or rubber sections could help prevent marring of the work. Also make sure that you use a fence if you have one. Something this small is liable to get away from you fast.  Would not work for much smaller than that. However I don't really recommend this for you or myself because...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Benchtop sander does not sound like the right tool for this job&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are talking small pieces of wood here. Even hand sanding would be preferred as you would have &lt;em&gt;more control&lt;/em&gt;. Your belt sander would be ideal from removing more material faster I would imagine. If you need that kind of removal of smaller pieces just use chisels. After you can sand smooth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are not a big fan of sanding by hand they you can use scrapers, files, chisels, or a rasp. With a rasp there are several variations like a cabinet rasp that removes material but it is not as aggressive as a common rasp you would find in a general tool store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-02-28T15:01:32.510" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T15:01:32.510" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3508" CreationDate="2016-02-28T09:51:22.727" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretty much anyplace you'd use sheet aluminum outside.  Think roofing and home exterior finish work... they are used to attach the aluminum trim used to surround the roof, or on a home with aluminum siding with trim around windows. I think I've seen them in screen door frame construction as well. 3&quot; screws would be perfect for making frames from extruded aluminum at the miter joint. Screen doors, or perhaps window frames? They would be handy for connecting aluminum down spouts and drain pipe segments together as well.  (oops.. not true for 3&quot; long screws!) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ezcli.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ezcli.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;downspouts&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact working on aluminum drain pipe / downspouts would be my first guess as to what your box of screws was originally purchased for.  Let me guess, are the heads of the screws painted (typically black, white or brown) ?  Whoa... I just read our note again.. 3&quot; screws sounds like something you'd use to hold the rain gutter to the house. Let me see if I can find a photo.  That is a very odd length.  Perhaps something like this?  Normally I see long aluminum nails used (4 or 5&quot; in length), but what you are describing could be used in the following design:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nbpp8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nbpp8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rain gutter mounts&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd use them anyplace where there can be galvanic corrosion caused by the use of different materials exposed to the weather.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/33knM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/33knM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;aluminum awning&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember in the old days, when they made aluminum framed windows for homes? How about the tacky aluminum awnings that used to be so popular in the 1950's and 60's? The other place you might see then is in aluminum body motor home and trailer construction.  Aluminum screws with aluminum material is pretty safe.  On the other hand their strength is somewhat suspect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="343" LastEditorUserId="343" LastEditDate="2016-02-28T10:12:44.130" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T10:12:44.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3470" CreationDate="2016-02-28T12:16:02.537" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm facing a related issue, though not to tolerances so fine as you face. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the course of my researches, I learnt how boat builders stay true while drilling a hole for a propeller drive shaft several metres through the keelboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They don't move the drill, they move the job using a jig similar to a saw table fence. But instead of a circular saw blade there is a spinning auger perfectly parallel to both fence and table. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Build yourself a jig like this and you will be able to turn out Gandalf pipes by the dozen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1924" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T12:16:02.537" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3510" CreationDate="2016-02-28T16:07:15.273" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;They're all called &quot;belt sanders&quot;, but typically have some descriptive adjectives in front of them. &quot;Hand Held&quot; and &quot;Stationary&quot; are generally used to distinguish portable hand-held tools with tools that stay in one place on a workbench:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hand Held Belt Sanders&lt;/strong&gt; - These are belt sanders you can hold in your hand:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PejS3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PejS3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belt_sander#/media/File:Belt_sander_bosch.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stationary Belt Sanders&lt;/strong&gt; - These are belt sanders that remain stationary, like on a bench top (if you also said &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=benchtop%20belt%20sander&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;benchtop belt sander&lt;/a&gt;&quot; you'd be able to get the point across, too -- these typically seem to be combo belt + disc sanders these days, although that is not a rule):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jIJED.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jIJED.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belt_sander#/media/File:Bandslijpmachine_hobbykwaliteit_(Westfalia).jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you can describe &lt;em&gt;stationary&lt;/em&gt; belt sanders in various ways, e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=vertical%20stationary%20belt%20sander&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;vertical stationary belt sanders&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AKaFf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AKaFf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.harborfreight.com/1-in-x-30-in-belt-sander-60543.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The angled one you show isn't special, the angle is just... part of the specification of that tool, sort of like a 3&quot; vs 6&quot; belt sander. You can find ones with adjustable angles, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one interesting iteration is stationary belt sanders with a vertical sanding plane but with the belt moving horizontally are often called &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=edge+sander&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;edge sanders&lt;/a&gt;, e.g.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z7jNg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z7jNg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.extremausa.com/products/sanders/edge-sanders.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And there you might have &lt;em&gt;oscillating&lt;/em&gt; edge sanders, as well, which are edge sanders that, as implied, oscillate back and forth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But basically, edge sanders aside, they don't really have special names. They're all belt sanders. &quot;Hand Held&quot; vs &quot;Stationary&quot; is the most important categorization, but beyond that, you essentially just tack a reasonable descriptive adjective on the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the &quot;hand held&quot; and &quot;stationary&quot; qualifiers are fairly common among many types of tools, not just belt sanders, e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=hand%20held%20planer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hand held planer&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=stationary%20planer&amp;amp;oq=stationary%20planer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;stationary planer&lt;/a&gt;, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will not attempt to guess the difference between hand held and stationary Bernie Sanders, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2016-02-28T16:43:17.080" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T16:43:17.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3460" CreationDate="2016-02-28T17:15:53.970" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Not burning or charring the wood, but heating it to a high temperature.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00884121/document&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; dealing with the &quot;Strength properties of thermally modified softwoods...&quot; that deals specifically with three different softwoods the authors present information about distinct changes that occur in the mechanical properties brought about by heat-treating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, the authors discuss the reasons for heat-treating (a well accepted and common two step process that takes the temperature up to the range of 200 C. - think baking a pizza):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase resistance to fungal attack, i.e. slower to rot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More dimensional stability due to changes in ambient humidity&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then they discuss the specimens, testing methods and mechanical test results that reveal these changes (plus others):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tension strength parallel to the grain is dramatically reduced.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The compression strength parallel to the grain is increased.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bending strength (requiring compression and tension strength) is increased slightly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Modulus of elasticity is increased.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Impact strength is greatly reduced (more likely to snap instead gradually failing)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reduced water adsorption (hence, increased stability)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, there is discussion about the likely causes of these changes which are caused by activity at the cellular and molecular level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surely, we should not extrapolate these particular results to apply to all woods (no hardwood testing here) but I think it's safe to say that the extreme heating of wood does permanently change mechanical characteristics of wood. (Increase or decrease? - some one, some the other.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T17:15:53.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3509" CreationDate="2016-02-28T19:12:21.360" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Useful tip: old-fashioned handscrew clamps, because they have wood jaws, are safe for tools and less likely to damage the piece you're working on, especially if you line the jaws with scrap leather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7GkgB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7GkgB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;handscrewclamp -- two wooden pieces joined by viselike screw connections at middle and bakh. The hardare is mounted so it can pivot, allowing the position and angle of the jaws to be sdjusted relative to each other to some degree. The front is often tapered slightly to allow clamping into a smaller area, and to improve the view when these are used as a &amp;quot;handle&amp;quot; on a piece of wood being machined.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-03-01T19:56:58.773" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T19:56:58.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3468" CreationDate="2016-02-28T22:11:39.490" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is it used for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, it certainly is not used only for airplanes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This from an aircraft plywood &lt;a href=&quot;http://europlywood.com/catalogue/aircraft-plywood/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;manufacturer&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As the name indicates aircraft plywood is used in the manufacture of aircraft but also boats, furniture, model airplanes, model boats, doll houses, boomerangs and other toys, musical instruments, fine packaging (e.g. cigar cases) including food packaging (e.g. chocolate boxes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be used for aircraft it must be high quality which makes it desirable for other applications.  One of its desired attributes is, like all plywood, dimensional stability parallel to the surface.  Its dimensional stability for thickness suffers like any other wood.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T22:11:39.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3519" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-29T02:11:59.387" Score="4" ViewCount="4713" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for the best wood recommendations to build a large quantity of beer pong tables in the cheapest way possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those who don't know, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beer_pong&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;beer pong&lt;/a&gt; is a party game in which a ping pong ball is thrown from one side of the table to the other trying to place the ball in the opponent's beer cup so that the opponent has to drink the whole cup. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wood/plywood must be easy to cut, lightweight, cheap and easy to handle with. Any recommendations? I'm going to make 10 first and then more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1936" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-02-29T17:25:15.710" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T17:25:20.693" Title="Good wood for beer pong table" Tags="|wood-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3502" CreationDate="2016-02-29T05:21:41.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll try, but I fear that I might need more pictures to go with the explanation...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw a square line all the way around your 50x200. Mark the middle of the edges.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find a couple of scraps of plywood, any width and somewhere in the length of 300mm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw a straight line (not even square -- just straight) across the middle of the 300mm dimension. Carry the line to the bottom edge with a little tick.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Align the line on the plywood with the line on the flat of the 50x200. By now, you should have the timber on edge, on the ground, with the ply pressed up against the flat of the timber. Clamp or brad nail the ply in place.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clamp the other chunk of ply onto the other flat side of the timber. (Terrible artwork:)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1NN6F.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1NN6F.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Drill into the pencil mark, keeping the drill bit between the chunks of ply, and aligned with the line on the ply. Drill half way. Flip the timber and repeat. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the auger bit isn't very long, try to set yourself up so that you at least get started with a couple of inches/50mm. This will align you for the rest of the drilling as well as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T05:21:41.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3519" CreationDate="2016-02-29T05:28:26.603" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;15/32 (1/2&quot;) construction plywood is really cheap at North American big box retailers. The surface is rough and thus makes the game harder. If you're not into challenge, you can get smooth ply for about double.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2x4s can make the base -- a rectangle for the apron; legs screwed inside that rectangle, and then braced (angle, or another rectangle in the middle) for something sturdy-ish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-02-29T17:25:20.693" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T17:25:20.693" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3519" CreationDate="2016-02-29T14:01:37.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The wood/plywood must be easy to cut, lightweight, cheap and easy to handle with. Any recommendations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Home center pine plywood and pine boards are probably your best option here.  I used a recycled loft bed frame (made of 2x6s) and pine plywood to make one in college.  You don't say where you're located, but this is based on my experience in the US.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Springtime is coming up, so you can probably find free wood on the side of the road if you pay attention.  Also, if you wait until the end of May or beginning of June, you'll probably be able to find all the free wood you want in your local dorm's dumpster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T14:01:37.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3523" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-29T22:38:04.860" Score="5" ViewCount="585" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently obtained some old (50 to 75 years old) rough sawn hardwood structural framing members 2x8 and 2x10 by various lengths.  The wood is well acclimated to my shop but has some warping which requires treatment on my jointer and thickness planer.  The problem is that my jointer bed is 6&quot; wide.  Is there an effective process for using the jointer on these wider boards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T16:39:51.703" Title="Milling wide lumber to square" Tags="|jointer|milling|thickness-planer|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3523" CreationDate="2016-02-29T22:50:04.363" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;See past comments re using a sled to stabilize the piece so a planer can be used as a wide jointer. e.g.&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2116/what-is-a-planer-sled-and-how-do-you-use-it&quot;&gt;This one&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to build a sled, another approach is gluing reasonably straight &quot;rails&quot; to each edge of the board (not the ends) to hold it in a consistent position. The tops of the rails will be planed away as you flatten the board, but if there's no hardware present that's harmless. Hot glue has the advantage of being easy to remove when you're done, though more aggressive glues could be cut free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or consider hand-planing to flatten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if you plan to cut shorter lengths, doing so before jointing may let you retain more wood since the wind will be less per board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T17:18:33.257" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3523" CreationDate="2016-02-29T23:07:20.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keshlam's answer got my mental juices going and I think I have an idea that may be a bit simpler than building a sled assembly.  If the jointer blade guard is removed, the wider board can run through the jointer to level the inner 6&quot; of the wide board.  After it is leveled, the entire board can be passed through the thickness planer using 6&quot; wide piece of squared lumber or plywood as a shim.  From there the top can be planed level and parallel to the jointed portion and finally the unjointed portion of the first face can be planed as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the comments point out, my initial thoughts had not yet considered safety adequately.   A little more investigation brought attention to the European style guards which fully cover the cutter blades although they still mount to the bed opposite the fence and appear to limit the width of the board passing. The general design of these guards, however, look like they will work better than the american spring-loaded guards.  Another alternative is to make a shop made guard that mounts to the fence and cantilevers over the cutting blades.  I am considering making a test model to see how well it might work in operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2016-03-01T01:50:27.370" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T01:50:27.370" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3523" CreationDate="2016-03-01T01:30:51.233" Score="5" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Bring in some other tools&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would seem blasphemy to do to wood of this age but you could consider cutting the boards down their length and laminating them once you make them square. If you are already cutting them square then the natural character that this wood would have would be removed anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Table saw and band saw come to mind. They should be able to handle the wood size. depending on how significant the warp is you would need to use sled jigs, featherboards, clamps etc. to ensure the wood does not move during the cutting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Reduce waste&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't necessarily need to do so down the middle but perhaps somewhere to complement the warp so that the two boards individually become flatter. Advantage here is that you would reduce the overall wood that needs to be removed in order to get the boards square. This advice is more geared towards cupping in boards when cutting along the length. If you have other forms of warp then you might need to cut across the width. Goal is the same regardless: Try to get straighter individual boards. See a good image on warp: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/319/how-to-straighten-a-warped-board/382#382&quot;&gt;How to straighten a warped board&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Less wear on the tools and yourself and hopefully more yield when you are dealing with straighter wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you should be able to put them through the jointer and planner for squaring. Then, once the boards are square and cleaned up, you could laminate them back together again. Assuming the project calls for it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T22:38:34.593" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2388" CreationDate="2016-03-01T09:41:02.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So I found two practical solutions that actually work, exactly as desired.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first one is a &quot;Duh!&quot; solution: Search long enough, and find a professional-grade tool trader, pick up the phone and ask them for help. Guess what, you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; buy a 17mm router bit if that's what you absolutely want.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;These are normally used for plow-routing C-tracks, they're a slightly (2-3€) more expensive than an average HW tool although they're only HSS. But for the intended purpose of creating a couple of templates, they're by all means good enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second solution would be the template-template trick, which I've actually tried (before finding the 17mm bit). Although it adds the tool's clearance twice and thus is technically an inferior solution, it works pretty well in practice.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Having both versions side by side now, I really can't say one is better or worse than the other (looks the same, works the same, outcome looks the same, and if you hold the two templates on top of each other, you can't feel a step with your finger).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also figured (not tried, but should work) an easier combination which -- unlike the solution with the somewhat rare 14mm bit -- uses only &lt;em&gt;very standard&lt;/em&gt; sizes:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Drilling a 25mm hole with a readily available method and using the 24mm ring will give a 1mm clearance, thus effectively making the router bit 1mm larger in diameter. If the router bit is a standard 16mm, that'll give 17mm on the second template.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="135" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T09:41:02.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3509" CreationDate="2016-03-01T10:13:27.237" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Matt's answer covers things well but I wanted to add something about increasing efficiency since you say you are often faced with the task. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Preparing in advance&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I think you should approach the job from the outset with the goal being to reduce the amount of sanding to a minimum, irrespective of whether it's by hand or using a powered sander. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for example if you were making multiple small blocks from a longer square-section board the long sides should be fully smoothed before any final sawing to size. This means they can, in theory at least, be planed or scraped surfaces, reducing the total production of sanding dust to a minimum which is a worthwhile goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will result in only the new sawn faces requiring sanding, two per block rather than all six. Going further, if you shoot the end of the board before cutting off the block you reduce the number of surfaces requiring sanding from two to just one :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tips for sanding by hand&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When we read &quot;sanding by hand&quot; there's a natural tendency to think of holding the workpiece in one hand and a sanding block in the other or perhaps even just a folded piece of sandpaper. But you'll have a much better sanding experience if you keep the sandpaper still and move only the workpiece, which leads on to the idea of jigging up your sanding. This will give greatly improved efficiency &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; accuracy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the first 'jig' I think is worth making is the &lt;strong&gt;sanding board&lt;/strong&gt;. This can be nothing more sophisticated than a full sheet of sandpaper taped to a flat piece of MDF, particleboard/chipboard or plywood (as long as the surface of the ply is very smooth), or if budget allows using self-adhesive paper on a smooth substrate such as glass or melamine-faced board. You can also build a dedicated board for this, with means to hold the paper securely on two or four edges: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ufzbd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ufzbd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sanding hook&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Source: sanding hook from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Sanding-Hook-Jig-for-Sanding-Small-Parts/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this Instructable&lt;/a&gt;]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8bHNX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8bHNX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sanding board&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/rance/blog/26909&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this blog entry&lt;/a&gt; from user rance on Lumberjocks]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: while you can move the workpiece over the sanding board any way it's often beneficial to use a circular motion rather than sanding back and forth, this can help to prevent rocking the work and introducing an unwanted curvature to the face you're sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next is the &lt;strong&gt;sanding fence&lt;/strong&gt;, which is just a low fence attached square to a board that has been faced with sandpaper. Pressing the workpiece flat against the base while moving back and forth along the fence it's very easy to keep your edges square by something that's not at all easy when sanding by other means, particularly with thin stock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way of approaching the same thing is the &lt;strong&gt;sanding shooting board&lt;/strong&gt;. This is exactly what it sounds like, a shooting board where you use a sanding block/sled/plane to run past the edge of the workpiece rather than a normal plane. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RHsww.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RHsww.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sanding shooting board&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above picture shows a commercial sanding sled in use, but you can of course easily build a sled or sanding plane from scrap wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although you can do this on the edge of your regular shooting board it may be best if you make a board specifically for this as even after carefully brushing clean some abrasive particles are left behind and will inevitably scratch your plane the next time you go to shoot normally. The scratches will only be superficial so whether you feel the need to make two separate boards is up to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Improving the cuts to minimise the need to sand&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The saw matters &lt;em&gt;hugely&lt;/em&gt; in how smooth your fresh-sawn faces are. I don't know which saw or saws you're commonly doing the final cutting to size with but a fine-toothed razor saw (e.g. 32tpi or higher) or a somewhat equivalent pull saw (more teeth per inch, but different tooth geometry leaves a cleaner sawn face) can each leave a surface so smooth that you might in some circumstances decide it doesn't need to be sanded at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the type of saw, if you gauge or mark your cut lines around the wood with a sharp knife prior to sawing all four sides of the cut can be left much cleaner, reducing or removing the need to sand any edges too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T10:13:27.237" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3529" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-01T20:17:00.633" Score="8" ViewCount="5000" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to sharpen plane blades and jointer knives for a long time now but never was able to get a really sharp edge. I see most people can achieve this, some can cut a paper by using the paper's weight against the blade, others can shave hair out of their hands with the blade. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really follow a simple process in sharpening, I have a stone with coarse/fine sides and I have a honing guide. I've been using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.veritastools.com/Products/Page.aspx?p=121&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; from veritas for the jointer knive so the blade edge is touching the stone at the right angle. I do the coarse side first to remove any dents in the blade and them move to the fine side. I've tried doing this for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The length of the blade&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And a microbevel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both didn't give me the required result, in one instance the blade was so blunt that it showed burn marks while planing the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is giving me a lot of grief as I have the same problem with sharpening hand plane blades, what I want to know is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What am I doing wrong?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is a stone with coarse/fine surfaces enough for what I am doing?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much sharpness is good enough? What do you do for testing the sharpness of your blade?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1058" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-03-02T20:03:57.490" LastActivityDate="2020-03-13T16:32:19.120" Title="How to sharpen a planer knife the right way?" Tags="|sharpening|jointer|blade|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1826" CreationDate="2016-03-02T05:58:27.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;With a basic drill guide (collar style) I can get it pretty straight, but setting the work piece perfectly perpendicular is tricky &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start with oversize stock large enough for a drill guide. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mark the cut lines for the square faces. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mark the diagonals. They intersect in the centre of your hole.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;since the edges from where it's cut off the bar stock aren't quite square after hand-sawing. (Maybe I should be using a mitre box?). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a compound mitre slide saw. And a drill press.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1924" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T05:58:27.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3529" CreationDate="2016-03-02T09:48:13.737" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard to diagnose a problem like this without at least good photos of everything so the following involves some guesswork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is a stone with coarse/fine surfaces enough for what I am doing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Impossible to say with certainty because of the variables. Unfortunately stones (diamond abrasive plates as well) graded as coarse, medium, fine etc. are by no means equal. One maker's 'fine' will be very similar to another's 'medium', something that has tripped up many of us buying sharpening products from different makers :-(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the product photo you link to the honing guide is being used on abrasive paper on glass and I was thinking there was every reason to suppose they would go to a finer grit than the 'fine' side of many stones. Looking further down the Product Highlights underneath say they include a piece of 15 micron film, which is approximately equivalent to 1000 grit. Unless you know the grit ratings for your stones and the 'fine' is 1000 or finer that's likely part of the issue here (but see Note at bottom).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just in general, a simple combination stone like this can be good enough as the core of a sharpening system... I should mention that many people with elaborate (and expensive) sharpening setups would disagree with this! But for planer knives how fine the 'fine' side is could be critical, although other issues including how you're sharpening may be as important or more important. Which leads us to...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What am I doing wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibly nothing, but let's see. If you didn't begin by lapping the unbevelled face of the blade flat as per &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.veritastools.com/Content/Assets/ProductInfo/EN/05M25.01EN.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the instructions&lt;/a&gt; then do that first. As in all similar sharpening operations creating a uniformly flat surface &lt;em&gt;along the edge&lt;/em&gt; on the other side of the blade is vital to creating a sharp edge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, when sharpening the bevel, the PDF includes this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hint:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;Apply pressure on the push stroke only. This will prevent a thin wire edge from forming along the leading edge of the blade. Continue this action until a satisfactory finish has formed on the bevel.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you haven't been using push strokes only when sharpening do that also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final point, check your stones for flatness. For this operation it's vital your stone (both sides) is completely flat. If you check with a straightedge and you find there's even a slight dish on either or both sides then flatten the stone before you try sharpening again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stones can be flattened in numerous ways, the cheapest for you now is to use a sheet of coarse wet-and-dry abrasive paper on a very flat substrate. A good surface for this in the typical home is a kitchen countertop, generally made of thick, stable material held reliably flat by how it is installed. But don't assume it's flat, check it first before use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How much sharpness is good enough? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a general principle no edge used in woodworking can be too sharp. Obviously there are complexities, but all other things being equal &lt;em&gt;sharper&lt;/em&gt; is usually preferable to &lt;em&gt;less-sharp&lt;/em&gt; (again, see Note bottom).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What do you do for testing the sharpness of your blade?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never tested a planer knife for sharpness but think of them as a sharp edge, not just a planer knife and test accordingly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they aren't good enough to pare wood as you'd use a chisel for example then they're definitely not sharp enough. Arguably you should aim for them to be sharp enough that they'll neatly pare pine end grain, although in practice this may not be required for a planer knife. Related: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3374/how-can-i-tell-if-wood-turning-lathe-chisels-are-sharp/3377#3377&quot;&gt;How can I tell if wood turning (lathe) chisels are sharp?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This is giving me a lot of grief as I have the same problem with sharpening hand plane blades, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although the goal is obviously the same sharpening planes irons can be approached slightly differently. There are some previous Questions on sharpening that might be of some help:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/672/is-there-a-best-way-to-sharpen-an-edged-tool-like-a-chisel&quot;&gt;Is there a &amp;#39;best&amp;#39; way to sharpen an edged tool like a chisel?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2398/how-does-one-aggressively-sharpen-chisels-and-plane-irons-when-damaged&quot;&gt;How does one aggressively sharpen chisels and plane irons when damaged?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2403/does-it-matter-what-kind-of-diamond-stone-i-get&quot;&gt;Does it matter what kind of diamond stone I get?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1963/sharpening-grits-naming-and-selection&quot;&gt;Sharpening grits -- naming and selection&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you'd like further help with your handplane irons start a new thread to get more specific answers on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note on grit size and sharpness:&lt;/strong&gt; there is no absolute need to sharpen to 1000 grit, although it gives very good results. Many Western woodworkers now sharpen both their chisels and plane irons to well above this but you can actually get a good, workable edge on abrasive as coarse as 250 as long as the sharpening is done well and no wire edge/burr remains. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is NOT to say the edge is as sharp, it isn't, but it can be &lt;em&gt;sharp enough&lt;/em&gt; for the job at hand. For best results though you should go sharper, especially on chisels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T09:48:13.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3441" CreationDate="2016-03-02T11:38:36.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I realize that every wood species expands and contracts slightly differently, but in general at what width should I consider using a floating breadboard edge detail rather than a full glue-up for perpendicular grain conditions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although there are some broad generalisations that can usefully be made (e.g. a post I read recently suggested that you should make a breadboard floating &quot;for anything larger than a side table&quot;) overall I don't think this should be approached in an &lt;em&gt;in general&lt;/em&gt; kind of way since it's all about the specifics, not just species but the cut of the board or boards is absolutely critical because radial movement is about half that of tangential movement, and can be even lower in some cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say you're working with a species known for high movement (e.g. red oak) for example, if you choose quarter-sawn boards for the field of a table then expansion will be low, even compared to another species known for its stability. So, quarter-sawn red oak expands and contracts much less than flat-sawn redwood, because it's radial expansion in the former and tangential expansion in the latter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This all assumes well-dried stock of course, if the stuff is not at equilibrium with the surroundings when building the piece movement should be expected to be higher than predicted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further info (also see table bottom):&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/108898/calculating-for-wood-movement&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Calculating for Wood Movement&lt;/a&gt; on Fine Woodworking&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/tricks/how-to-calculate-wood-shrinkage-and-expansion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Calculate Wood Shrinkage and Expansion&lt;/a&gt; on Popular Woodworking&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/tipstechniques/wood-movement&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wood Movement&lt;/a&gt; on Canadian Woodworking Magazine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where you do decide to go with a fully glued bond this is one case where a glue noted for creep (e.g. white versions of PVA) is a superior choice to one that is very much more inflexible (e.g. hot hide glue). Where the PVA will allow a little give in the joint the hide glue might fail suddenly and startlingly with &quot;a report like a toy pistol&quot; as Charles Wheeler put it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I also understand that breadboards provide protection against cupping, but that can be addressed in a variety of ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. My feeling is that breadboard ends should only be used when you want the look (or in the rare case when you need to extend length of available material) and not as the go-to solution to helping a tabletop remain flat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all glue-ups need any help to remain flat anyway, particularly if well coated with a film finish, and of course rift-sawn and quarter-sawn wood will tend to bow less than flat-sawn. But where some help is deemed needed battens on the underside I think are preferable for a number of reasons. Chief amongst them is that when the top is at full expansion or full contraction you can't see it as a noticeable step at the edge of the table, something I very bothersome myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps more important to a lot of woodworkers battens are far easier to install on a table. No need for the elaborate and sometimes time-consuming creation of a long tenon and deep mortise, you just make suitable holes in the batten to allow for movement, screw them to the underside of the table and you're done. So better aesthetics (IMO) and simplicity itself to fit. Win win in my book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think all the above links use the data from the US Forest Service, instead of just summaries the whole table might be of use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e8U1r.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e8U1r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dimensional Change Coefficients&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T11:38:36.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3534" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3535" CreationDate="2016-03-02T14:20:15.143" Score="22" ViewCount="37777" Body="&lt;p&gt;MDF is pretty cool stuff. Been around for a fair amount of time now. Stuff is used lots now and days. Dimensionally stable and cost effective for a great deal of projects. Problem is that MDF is made with formaldehyde right? and that the chemical has been &lt;a href=&quot;https://ntp.niehs.nih.gov/ntp/roc/content/profiles/formaldehyde.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;classified as a known carcinogen&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking up an article on MDF safety I ran into &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theguardian.com/uk/1997/sep/21/antonybarnett.theobserver&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The deadly secret of DIY's dream material&lt;/a&gt; which contains such information like:\&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At this month's TUC conference Roy Lockett, deputy general secretary of Bectu, said: 'MDF is the asbestos of the Nineties. It is carcinogenic. It causes lesions. It damages the eyes, the skin, the lungs and the heart. It is vile and pernicious.'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I watch &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TAChDhog2_I&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; where buddy is making a couple of hundred mdf boxes. There was a (&lt;em&gt;exaggeration alert&lt;/em&gt;) tonne of MDF boxes made. You see him cutting all these boxes and I have to wonder what that is going to be doing to his health. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TAChDhog2_I&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GltW9.png&quot; alt=&quot;Lots o&amp;#39; boxes&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is working MDF bad for your health? Why is it so widely used if there are health concerns? Should I avoid its use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-03-02T18:20:52.013" LastActivityDate="2021-07-26T12:24:05.027" Title="Is working with MDF going to kill me?" Tags="|safety|cutting|sawdust|toxicity|mdf|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3534" CreationDate="2016-03-02T14:20:15.143" Score="26" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is working MDF bad for your health?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt; but only if you are ignorant of your tools and materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It certainly can be. However the answer of &amp;quot;Yes&amp;quot; is misleading as the concerns surrounding MDF are more than just the &lt;em&gt;potential&lt;/em&gt; presence of hazards such as the release formaldehyde. Working MDF creates dust particles much like any other wood. It is true though that some formaldehyde will be located on those particles and that has the potential to enter the body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Articles and blogs that discuss the harms of formaldehyde usually miss some key points. Namely that it is a naturally occurring organic compound that is found in the air, plants, animals and our own bodies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Formaldehyde is normally present at low levels, usually less than 0.03 ppm,(parts per million) in both outdoor and indoor air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hse.gov.uk/woodworking/faq-mdf.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;www.hse.gov.uk: What is formaldehyde and where does it come from?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Large point to make about MDF is that the common binding resin urea-formaldehyde, for which the concern derives from, is not the sole binding agent used in the manufacture of MDF today. Many &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.buildgp.com/mdf-ultrastock-free&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;suppliers offer formaldehyde free or no added-formaldehyde options&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing that some people forget is that the compound urea-formaldehyde has also been used in the creation of plywoods and other sheet goods. Therefore its use in the engineered wood market is not new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I avoid its use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are certain safety precautions that need to be taken &lt;em&gt;regardless&lt;/em&gt; of the work you are doing. I like this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.props.eric-hart.com/safety/is-mdf-really-that-bad-for-you/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;quote from a prop makers blog&lt;/a&gt; that captures this well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like any other substance or material used in [the workshop], the safety of using it is dependent on &lt;strong&gt;knowing the risks and possible hazards and taking the appropriate precautions&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that video that was linked I don't think I see a mask at all in use. Sawdust is a known carcinogen from MDF or otherwise. As discussed in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/353/what-kind-of-wood-dust-is-toxic-dangerous-and-requires-usage-of-dust-mask&quot;&gt;What kind of wood dust is toxic/dangerous and requires usage of dust mask?&lt;/a&gt; the answer is you should &lt;em&gt;always be wearing the appropriate dust mask&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also need to be aware that reaction to different materials can be individual. Some people are just naturally sensitive to dust and particles. That does not mean MDF is a bad material on that justification alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is working with MDF going to kill me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably not. As long as you are aware of the risk associated with working on it. That last sentence should ring a general warning that you should always be aware of the risk to your personal safety when working with your tools and materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T01:19:13.350" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="399" CreationDate="2016-03-02T16:33:40.437" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am generally good at research but I have no hands on experience with turning. I am honored at even the attempt to try and help you with your plight. I contacted the tool's manufacturer &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.robert-sorby.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Robert Sorby&lt;/a&gt; to try and see what they could offer. One of their agents provided me with a PDF that I don't think is hosted on their site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the best I could muster for the official instructions on how to use the tools you have pictured. However they don't cover your concern about the surface scratching but I have some ideas about that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Boring Bar and Depth Stop&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tool in the middle is the boring bar and depth stop. Depth stop appears to be an adjustable collar. Pretty simple to figure that one out but here is the content of the document all the same:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The boring tool is used to remove the centre of the hollow vessel or bowl to an accurate depth. The depth stop limits the depth of cut to prevent the risk of cutting through the bottom of the project. The tool should be presented to the&#xA;work horizontally and cut on centre line. The boring bar is sharpened by rubbing a diamond file on the two cutting edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hollowing Tools&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom tool picture is a fixed edge swan-necked hollowing tool which is designed for general cutting and hollowing. The tool above and on top is just the same except the cutting head is adjustable making it more versatile for more complex cuts and better geared for smaller sizes of work as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These tools cut on the centre line of the work. Throughout which the tools are held horizontal. For a more gentle cut rotate the tool until the tip trails around the 8 o'clock position. Make a series of light cuts starting from the top of the work and working towards the bottom. We recommend that these tools are honed with a diamond file on the bevel. If the tip is severely damaged it may be necessary to re-profile the tip on a bench grinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following notes are also present&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cutting occurs on centre.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For a gentler cut rotate the tool until the tip trails up to 15° off horizontal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tool must be horizontal at all times.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wall Thickness Gauge&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More of your issue comes from the Wall Thickness Gauge which is supposed to make it so you don't cut through the wood completely. It is expected that the external shape of the work is completed before these tools are used. The following is the instruction for setting the gauge which I am sure you figured out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lock on to ferrule with 'T' knob (A).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slacken screw (B) with allen key provided.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Holding the finger loop in contact with the handle, set to the required gap and retighten the screw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if this part is just obvious but based on what I read (it does not say itself) the bar will move while you work obviously. You will know you hit your desired depth once the bar comes to rest and is not under tension. Not the most fool proof system (assuming I understand right) but you are cutting blind so it is better than nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some notes also compliment the gauge:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can now be left in position whilst turning if required, and can be swung in and out to check the wall thickness as you tum. If the project is made from an open grained wood such as a burr, it is best to check the wall thickness when the work is stationary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;N.B.&lt;/strong&gt; The wall gauge can be bent if required for any difficult&#xA;areas. This is sometimes necessary on deep necked hollow&#xA;vessels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last note has the following accompanying photo&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KPDe2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KPDe2.png&quot; alt=&quot;Setting correct gap&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scratching outer contours&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the bar scratch all of the work or just the tighter inside contours? Perhaps you need to bend the bar more for part of the cuts? Also I cannot tell from any photos what the end of the gauge looks like. Mostly wanted to know if it had a flat or rounded end. I would have assumed the latter but it is possible either way that you have a manufacture defect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion would be make sure that the end is rounded as much as possible. Rotary tool and using a few different heads should help. Polish that baby and that should hopefully prevent scratches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only other suggestion which you are probably already doing is make the outer surface &lt;em&gt;slightly&lt;/em&gt; uniformly wider than the intended finished product and clean once you are done hollowing on the inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For completeness there is a warning both in this document and almost every video I watched on the subject.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;All swan necked hollowing tools should be used with the straight section of the shank on the tool rest. At no time should the swan necked section of the tool come into contact with the rest&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;The markup from the document was also underlined. Clearly set to stress the message&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T19:54:15.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3537" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-02T17:16:54.860" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-03-02T17:16:54.860" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T17:16:54.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3538" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-02T17:16:54.860" Score="0" Body="Using and making of wooden dowels which are mainly used as structural components or as fasteners" OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-03-02T18:19:57.247" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T18:19:57.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3539" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-02T17:57:38.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use this tag for questions dealing with whether something will collapse.  For questions dealing with dimensional stability use &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/moisture&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;moisture&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;moisture&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2889" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2020-03-10T15:42:41.100" LastActivityDate="2020-03-10T15:42:41.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3540" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-02T17:57:38.117" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for questions dealing with whether something will collapse.  For questions dealing with dimensional stability use the [moisture] tag." OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2020-05-28T15:24:35.803" LastActivityDate="2020-05-28T15:24:35.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3529" CreationDate="2016-03-02T20:24:45.787" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sharpening is an art.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend buying The Razor Edge Book of Sharpening by John Juranitch. It explains the basic principles correctly. Other books like the ones by Leonard Lee and Ron Hock are either worthless or have a lot of distracting misinformation. For example, if you read the other answer posted above you can get a sense for the irrelevant and incorrect mumbo jumbo in those books. Juranitch's book is simple, clear and correct. If you remove the anecdotes from his book it would be 5 pages long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You only need three grits, a coarse grit (60-80), a medium grit (120-160) and a fine grit (250-400). You can sharpen with just two, coarse and fine but it is more time consuming. Ideally, each grit should be double the screen size of the previous one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The error you are undoubtedly making is that you are applying the abrasive to both sides of the edge. If you read Juranitch, it makes it clear why that is a mistake. He very clearly explains how to sharpen a plane blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another book that has reasonably correct information is &quot;Japanese Knife Sharpening: With Traditional Waterstones&quot; by Rudolf Dick, who is one of the few I have read with any deep knowledge of sharpening. This book applies to sharpening knives (two-edged blades), however, so it may be less applicable to your situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastEditorUserId="306" LastEditDate="2016-03-02T20:30:45.910" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T20:30:45.910" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3542" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-02T19:58:37.763" Score="10" ViewCount="941" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to find out what this vintage woodworkng tool is called. It holds a small file. It seems to be cast iron. It does have screws to open &amp;amp; change files. Any ideas? PAT. Jan. ? 1891  No makers marks.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lc54H.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lc54H.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;antique tool&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Bonnie" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-03-03T01:16:30.180" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T01:16:30.180" Title="Trying to identify this antique woodworking tool" Tags="|hand-tools|tools|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3542" CreationDate="2016-03-02T20:20:02.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say that it's a cross-cut saw sharpening tool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.etsy.com/listing/266146164/antique-cast-iron-raker-gauge-file&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.etsy.com/listing/266146164/antique-cast-iron-raker-gauge-file&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2116" OwnerDisplayName="isherwood" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T20:20:02.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3542" CreationDate="2016-03-02T22:21:04.610" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have there what's called a &lt;em&gt;saw jointer&lt;/em&gt;.  The one below is very similar.  The site linked as the source says it's similar to a Stearn's model, so that might be what you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YjuWv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YjuWv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;jointer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jonzimmersantiquetools.com/tools/saws.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are used to joint (flatten) the teeth of a hand saw to one level.  After jointing, one would then sharpen each individual tooth such that the points are now at the same level as just jointed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-_MF2Mnxwc&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube video&lt;/a&gt; that shows the sharpening process in great detail.  You can see the author explaining the use of a homemade jointer &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/u-_MF2Mnxwc?t=26m16s&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;at 26:16&lt;/a&gt; and use it &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/u-_MF2Mnxwc?t=51m39s&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;at 51:39&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T22:21:04.610" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3547" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-03T19:41:58.527" Score="6" ViewCount="11372" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are about to move into a new house, that has some very nice coarse/rough beams on the interior (A lot of them). They have been painted though, and I'm looking for a method to remove the paint, and let the natural wood stand out instead. I'm looking for some inexpensive DIY methods that might I could do by myself. I read about using some of the following methods, but didn't find any information as to how it would work on a rough/coarse wood surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Methylene-chloride paint remover: Don't know how difficult that would be to remove the pain on the rough surface inside a house&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dry ice blasting: I know it's very expensive to rent and do, but is it worth it?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sandblasting: Not too familiar with this method&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Any other inexpensive methods?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have attached a not so great picture but hopefully that gives the idea of what the beam looks like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kVyjS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kVyjS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example of Beam&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1958" LastEditorDisplayName="user862" LastEditDate="2019-02-03T08:03:17.133" LastActivityDate="2023-12-19T16:48:06.570" Title="Removing Paint from Rough/Coarse Surfaced Beams" Tags="|paint|restoration|surface-preparation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3547" CreationDate="2016-03-03T20:31:28.573" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have been painted though and I'm looking for a method to remove the paint, and let the natural wood stand out instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in an apartment building that used to be a large furniture factory.  The building is all exposed brick and heavy timber framing.  If you look closely at the timbers, you can see evidence that they were painted at one point but have since been cleaned off.  However, feeling the wood, you can also clearly tell that the timbers were sandblasted since the softer earlywood was eaten away much more than the denser latewood.  It's hard to tell from your picture, but that looks like what's happening there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read about using some of the following methods, but didn't find any information as to how it would work on a rough/coarse wood surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Methylene-chloride paint remover: Dont know how difficult that would be to remove the pain on the rough surface inside a house&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dry ice blasting: I know its very expensive to rent and do, but is it worth it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sandblasting: Not too familiar with this method&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Any other inexpensive methods?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no personal experience with the paint remover or dry ice blasting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me, using methylene-chlorine (a.k.a. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dichloromethane&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;dichloromethane&lt;/a&gt;) isn't particularly attractive since it can be absorbed into the body via inhalation and the skin, and the side effects don't give me the warm fuzzies.  Also, you'd probably have to scrape the paint off the wood with a putty knife or something, which is both laborious and will likely ruin the look you're going for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I've read, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dry-ice_blasting&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;dry ice blasting&lt;/a&gt; is essentially the same as sand blasting, except that it uses dry ice as the blasting medium.  This is nice because the dry ice sublimates and leaves no residue behind.  I don't know how expensive it is, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; looking to get that rustic coarse/rough look in your house's woodwork, I would bite the bullet and go with sand/dry ice blasting.  You can get a sand blaster for fairly cheaply at Harbor Freight, which will need an air compressor and the blasting medium to work.  This blaster is fairly light-duty, so it will probably take you a while.  Otherwise, I would imaging that dry ice blasting is a bit beyond the consumer to do DIY.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just be aware that if you end up blasting, you'll need to tent off the area pretty tightly to keep sand and detritus from getting into the rest of your house. I would imagine that professionals would do this as a manner of practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T20:31:28.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3547" CreationDate="2016-03-03T20:34:42.937" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately there are no easy solutions to removing paint from rough wood in situ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Methylene-chloride paint remover: Dont know how difficult that would be to remove the pain on the rough surface inside a house&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chemical strippers are in many ways the ideal way to strip paint (and varnish) from woodworker because, as odd as it might seem, they actually pose the least risk to the wood in most cases. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However there are some significant caveats and when it comes to their use indoors the first and foremost is the fumes of course. The strong solvent-based strippers, including amongst other ingredients methylene chloride, are particularly effective (both quick to act and very good at softening a wide variety of paints) but are most definitely a health concern so in an enclosed space great care must be exercised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are of course various strippers of the &quot;greener&quot; variety and although many are very much slower they can sometimes be effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of the stripper used though when it comes to wood with a significant texture it can be very difficult to remove all traces from the low spots. It's quite normal to have to treat areas of stubborn paint two or more times with stripper to try to shift it (even with the strong stuff), but often people resort to using picks and other tools to scrape paint out from inside corners, divots etc. Hardly ideal for the woodwork throughout a house! Even with these negatives I hate to say it, stripping may possibly be your best bet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Sandblasting: Not too familiar with this method&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think you'd want to mess with that indoors! The main issue is the horrendous amount of dust generated (remembering this is not just the blasting media but the paint, reduced to fine particles) and it would require extensive masking of all adjacent surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The abrasive media used in 'sand' blasting is often not sand or another mineral, it can be things like powdered walnut shells and even baking soda, and in the right circumstances it is an extremely good way to remove paint but it's not ideally suited to working outside of a controlled environment and it can do unwanted things to the surface of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any other inexpensive methods?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For wood with a highly textured surface I can't think of anything I'm afraid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general heat guns or blowtorches, used with scrapers of various kinds, can work excellently to get paint off wood but again the rough surface will greatly interfere with the removal and there's a strong risk of localised scorching of 'furry' bits on wood this rough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can strip some finishes quite effectively with ammonia as well as a strong caustic soda solution, but ammonia fumes are noxious and potentially harmful in high concentration and caustic soda solutions can cause serious chemical burns (with a particular risk of eye injury), so here too you'd have to be very careful of your personal safety. Also worth noting, as these are both strong alkalis they can have unwanted colouring effects on the wood itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In specific circumstances I know a lot of people would attempt to use a belt sander with very coarse paper (60 grit, or possible even lower) to do this but you'll lose a lot of the character of the wood this way, and on installed woodwork there are areas this type of sander can't reach so you'd need to use something else for part of it and blend in the results. Apart from not being a complete solution this would also consume &lt;em&gt;many&lt;/em&gt; sanding belts so cost would not be insignificant. Note: even if the sander has a vacuum port and you have a vacuum cleaner attached and running the whole time a lot of dust might be generated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry if this is all sounding so negative, but it's a tough problem!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T20:34:42.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3550" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-03T21:35:58.937" Score="2" ViewCount="85" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chopped down a small tree that recently died and began shedding bark due to what appears to be &lt;a href=&quot;http://extension.psu.edu/pests/plant-diseases/all-fact-sheets/fire-blight&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;fire blight&lt;/a&gt;.  I'd like to use the stock for a project once dried, but a significant section is stained almost black.  I've tried household bleach on a small section and it's marginally effective.  Any other ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1959" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T11:53:52.120" Title="Ideas for removing fire blight 'stain'?" Tags="|finishing|staining|green-wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3551" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3554" CreationDate="2016-03-03T23:16:18.613" Score="6" ViewCount="7512" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've created a tabletop for a desk. It's made of 4/4 cherry boards of different lengths and widths that I've laminated together on the edges. This was then glued onto a plywood top. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never made a tabletop before, only had a few bar clamps, and ended up with some visible gaps and seams that I wants to fill. A couple are where boards meet edge to edge, while a couple others are where boards meet end to end. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cherry just had a rough sanding so far and is still unfinished. I plan to coat it with a simple polyurethane. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I finish it, however, I want to fill those seams and gaps with something that will roughly match the wood and will accept the polyurethane. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Help? Do I use a mix of wood glue and cherry wood dust? Should I just fill with wood filler? What's the best way? Thanks! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1960" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T16:53:29.053" Title="Filling gaps/seams in a new cherry tabletop" Tags="|hardwood|laminating|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3551" CreationDate="2016-03-04T06:08:20.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use come CA-glue and a cherry sawdust to fill gaps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1954" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T06:08:20.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3550" CreationDate="2016-03-04T11:53:52.120" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are multiple types of &quot;wood bleach&quot;, which invariably use one or more common bleaching agents. They can be used to bleach wood in specific ways (e.g. removing native colour or dark staining from iron) but I suspect this might be a permanent colour change and nothing at all will change it, just as in the black lines in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3202/when-is-spalting-beneficial-for-wood/3204#3204&quot;&gt;spalted wood&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I would embrace the change in the affected wood and value it for being nearly black.... people can go to great efforts to get wood black!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T11:53:52.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3551" CreationDate="2016-03-04T12:58:06.640" Score="10" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This was then glued onto a plywood top. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't what you asked about but you might want to stop right there. You will likely run into problems if you glued solid wood firmly to a dimensionally stable material like plywood. Some allowance for &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/908/what-general-considerations-do-i-need-to-take-into-account-for-wood-movement&quot;&gt;seasonal movement&lt;/a&gt; must be made or the wood will strain against the glue and can crack itself free or will bow or otherwise warp the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll edit this out later if the situation is not how I'm visualising it but I wanted to give you the headsup in case it is, as this takes precedence over filling gaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do I use a mix of wood glue and cherry wood dust? Should I just fill with wood filler? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes :-) People do both very widely. Neither is perfect but both work acceptably well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wood dust and glue&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When you mix conventional wood glue (PVA type, yellow or white doesn't matter) with the wood dust of the same species you will nearly always end up with a fill that is darker than the surrounding wood. The result is similar to the colour of finished end grain, so quite significantly darker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know why it is so commonly stated that this is &quot;a good colour match&quot; because it's not. You &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; get a good colour match if you are using hide glue, but obviously that's not the glue most modern woodworkers are using and many guides saying they're getting a good colour match aren't either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Epoxy is worth trying, you can get a slightly better result using epoxy instead of PVA (slightly). It does allow you to progress much faster since most epoxies set hard enough to be worked well under the time a normal glue + wood dust mixture dries out, and the texture is usually smoother and more uniform. This is something I think is worth experimenting with, especially for larger voids, but with those I think they should be made a decorative feature and no attempt should be made to match the wood colour (I often go with a very dark brown or black).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Superglue or CA can also be used for some fills, but again, expect them to be darker. I use this myself sometimes for hairline cracks but I don't think it's really suitable for larger voids, in part because of the very fast 'drying' time. Such fills would also be very brittle which may be an issue the larger they get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wood filler&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Commercial paste wood filler can work well, especially when you are not staining the wood (they don't tend to stain well). But be aware fillers vary widely in type and qualities, and it may be difficult to find one of just the right colour. But most can have their colour tweaked using dry pigments or with a little of a suitable paint (acrylic for waterbased filler, oil or enamel paint for oil-based) if you're up for some experimentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that wood fillers can, similar to end grain, go a little darker once the finish goes on. If the change is not too pronounced it's not a big deal, it is commonly advised to make fills slightly darker. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What's the best way? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As usual, there is no one best. There are a multitude of opinions on what makes the best type of wood filler and professional woodworkers and finishers each have their preferences, sometimes based on the species and final finish more than having a single way they will always use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the options above people use a wide range of shop-made filler concoctions, at the more modern end of the spectrum spackle or drywall compound with wood dust and some commercial filler, and at the old-school traditional end linseed oil, wax and various resins coloured with dry pigments, softened using heat or with the addition of some turpentine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also at the traditional end but commercially made are &lt;strong&gt;shellac or wax fillers&lt;/strong&gt;. Neither of these may be easily available to you but some people swear by them. Both can be melted into defects e.g. using a soldering iron, and then levelled off with careful scraping. Again these would traditionally be applied to the finished wood, allowing for a more accurate match of the colour of the surrounding wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T12:58:06.640" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3551" CreationDate="2016-03-04T16:53:29.053" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the size and how many gaps you have, you could try a Dutchman or Butterfly &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/905/what-is-the-difference-between-a-dutchman-patch-and-a-butterfly-patch&quot;&gt;patch&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T16:53:29.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3556" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-04T17:21:14.780" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-03-04T17:21:14.780" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T17:21:14.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3557" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-04T17:21:14.780" Score="0" Body="Use this tag when asking questions about wood that has been heated to very high temperatures short of ignition." OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-03-04T18:23:07.357" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T18:23:07.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3558" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-04T17:26:51.827" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-03-04T17:26:51.827" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T17:26:51.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3559" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-04T17:26:51.827" Score="0" Body="Making, finishing, using wooden boards (solid or laminated) for food preparation" OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-03-04T18:22:56.293" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T18:22:56.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3560" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-05T00:31:36.777" Score="4" ViewCount="506" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to decide if my wife and I should buy some furniture new or buy an old piece and repaint it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's basically a large dresser + hutch (made of MDF) and is currently dark brown (we want to paint it white).  From my understanding, we really only need to put primer over it (sanding appears to be optional but if we do must be very light) and then repaint it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a bit nervous because we haven't ever repainted anything but the price difference is ~1000.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our main concern is whether or not it will look good but also, if the item is scratched, will the dark brown show through the white?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1964" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T19:28:58.330" Title="Painting dark MDF Cabinet White" Tags="|paint|mdf|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3561" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-05T00:33:17.830" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Different nails are used for varying applications - finish nails, brads, spikes, wire nails, sinkers, ring-shank nails, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is important to know which nails are for what purpose and being able to identify the for their individual properties. Just the same the tools you use will play an important part as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-03-05T23:58:02.377" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T23:58:02.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3562" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-05T00:33:17.830" Score="0" Body="The use, removal and properties of nails, and related fasteners, and the different tools required for those applications." OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-03-05T16:38:59.297" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T16:38:59.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3560" CreationDate="2016-03-05T02:36:58.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;MDF is not a very durable material as a finished surface and will not resist scratches well.  The only protection you have will be the surface you apply to it.  Paint will generally protect it from general water damage and the light wear and tear of everyday life, but not heavy wear or abuse, and not for a long time.  MDF is dark brown in color so any scratches will be visible. MDF is also vulnerable to heavy moisture or prolonged exposure to water, so keep that in mind in your decision. The good thing is you can recoat or touch it up if an area is marred. Wet areas will expand and you will have a hard time repairing such damage. Before painting, be sure to rough up the existing surface using a 320 grit or greater or steel wool. The idea is to provide a surface that the new paint can easily bond to.  You will get a smoother, more uniform appearance if you can spray paint the furniture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other considerations you should include in your decision is how durable the pieces are.  How well are parts like the drawers made and how long do you want the pieces to last?  MDF is common in lower cost furniture that is not expected to last too long.  As for will it look good... that is a question only you can answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T02:36:58.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3560" CreationDate="2016-03-05T11:37:16.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps an alternative.  I use MDF for kid's projects, built in mudroom or pantry shelves, etc. where I expect many dings and dents.  With a few coats of paint, it also cleans up well with soap and water.  However, I'm partial to a good yard sale or estate sale where for 'pennies on the dollar' you can find great quality furniture that may only need a wipe down or a coat of Old English on high quality craftsmanship (e.g. dovetail drawers) and hardwood materials (e.g. oak, cedar, poplar).  &lt;a href=&quot;http://estatesales.net&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;estatesales.net&lt;/a&gt; is my most recent favorite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1959" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T11:37:16.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3565" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-05T15:47:01.170" Score="1" ViewCount="6403" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having a bathroom renovated. The contractors plumber has used steel screws to attach the brass shower head fittings and brass valve to the wood 2x4 walls. Is this OK?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know in marine applications, you always use brass with brass  but this is  wood which will be covered with vapor barrier, drywall, and sealing material on the drywall before it gets tiled. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm getting conflicting messages from another plumber and from my City building inspection folks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tom&#xA;Kamloops, BC, Canada&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1969" LastActivityDate="2016-03-06T21:41:19.360" Title="Can steel screws be used in brass bathroom fittings?" Tags="|screws|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2016-03-07T01:49:53.137" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3566" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3580" CreationDate="2016-03-05T18:48:13.007" Score="14" ViewCount="49674" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have accumulated quite a few old files over the years.  Some are not very effective, but I have never thrown them out.  I have tried cleaning them with wire brushes and have even tried solvents, but without much improvement.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to sharpen/restore old files?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-03-05T23:12:14.037" LastActivityDate="2022-06-28T04:43:43.833" Title="How to restore old files?" Tags="|tool-repair|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3567" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-05T19:00:53.570" Score="5" ViewCount="13059" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just acquired 84&quot; rails for my tablesaw and constructed a new outfeed table  that spans the whole width.  Now I want to build a filler table at the side of the table to continue cast iron top surface between the rails (approx 27&quot; x 36&quot;).  I have some 3/4&quot; MDF in the shop, but it appears to have some warp and twist (about 1/4&quot; corner to opposite corner). I have enough MDF to make the top two layers thick and have clearance below to add deeper wood supports to help keep the top flat.  When I tried dry fitting the two top panels with clamps I still show a little twist. Before I try laminating the top pieces together I want to be sure I am not missing some simple tricks to flatten the surfaces permanently.  Can the warp in these panels be permanently removed or is the material beyond hope in creating a surface flat enough for a tablesaw table?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2016-03-06T15:33:49.187" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T13:42:31.623" Title="How to flatten MDF board" Tags="|table-saw|workbench|mdf|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3560" CreationDate="2016-03-05T19:28:58.330" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;An alternative to painting might be to apply plastic laminate (melamine or equivalent) to the surfaces. Or to build with melamine-surfaced particle board, available most places that sell MDF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Caveat: both MDF and melamine board are heavy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T19:28:58.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3569" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-05T19:38:20.117" Score="4" ViewCount="2261" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning a new workbench with a leg vise and came across this chain assembly  for the parallel guide in a couple pictures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mSlKR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mSlKR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Leg vise with chain&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aeb13.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aeb13.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chain on parallel guide&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot find any other information on it, but it looks like it pulls the guide out as the chop is pulled out.  The problem is that I do not see how the chain keeps the chop parallel when the chop is being tightened.  Note that the parallel guide does not have holes and so is not pinned to avoid racking when the clamp is tightened.  Am I missing something?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-03-05T23:28:41.493" LastActivityDate="2019-10-19T06:24:53.967" Title="How does this leg vise parallel chain guide work?" Tags="|workbench|vises|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="150" CreationDate="2016-03-05T22:49:57.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've finished reclaimed wood by sanding as you describe, and then buffing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, specifically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a belt sander with 80 grit followed by 120 grit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Random orbit sander 120 grit followed by 220 grit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buffing wheel (in a hand drill) with Tripoli based buffing compound (tallow lubricated)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This results in smooth wood that still has some of the worn, reclaimed, shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1972" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T22:49:57.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3571" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-05T23:03:36.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Computer-assisted machining typically controlling a router or a laser cutter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1972" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-03-06T09:46:56.697" LastActivityDate="2016-03-06T09:46:56.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3572" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-05T23:03:36.677" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-03-05T23:03:36.677" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T23:03:36.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3569" CreationDate="2016-03-05T23:28:12.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having a hard time to try and explain this but the jist of it is that the whole chop and parallel bar &lt;em&gt;move together simultaneously&lt;/em&gt;. The chain ensures that both move at a steady rate. When installed properly of course. Some people comment that it does not move as fluidly as a normal parallel bar would (some resistance when turning the wheel). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tightening the wheel moves the parallel bar back into the bench, as it is attached to the chop, which pulls the chain. The chain can never slack as the distance rung never changes. That I think is the important part. After reading information on several sites I could not find straight information about the movement of the chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the build that you got the picture from you will see that some roller wheels were installed to help guide the bar and prevent racking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Proper attribution is important. I found this image from a &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/yuridichesky/blog/40137&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;lumberjocks post&lt;/a&gt; of a gentleman in Russia outfitting his bench with this vise apparatus. It actually is a kit that is sourced from the US of mostly US parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find the kit and all instructions for its installation at &lt;a href=&quot;http://ancorayachtservice.com/?page_id=196&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Anchora Yacht Service woodworking site&lt;/a&gt;. You can also find, on that page, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/AYSLegViseChainAdjuster.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a link to another installation showing&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T23:28:12.807" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3569" CreationDate="2016-03-05T23:49:26.887" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Am I missing something? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yep.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fsjwn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fsjwn.png&quot; alt=&quot;this drawing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This drawing from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shigshop.com/roubo-workbench.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shigshop&lt;/a&gt; shows the part that is not visible in your photos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under the slide, mounted in the leg, is a wheel/bearing that allows the lower part of the chop to move in without binding.  The chain keeps the far end of the slide at a constant height which keeps it from binding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shigshop is also a source for buying plans for a roubo style work bench - if you are so inclined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T23:49:26.887" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3565" CreationDate="2016-03-06T09:43:55.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple answer is yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where I am steel screws seem to always be used instead of brass. Usually they are zinc-plated today but on older installations I have seen bare steel used (note: it is common for these to rust slightly, but not enough for any of the screws to fail). I can't actually recall the last time I saw brass screws used for anything other than show purposes, and these days it isn't easy to be certain that you are looking at a solid brass screw when brass-plated steel is becoming more common. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some random images gleaned from the web from around the world showing various steel screws used for this kind of installation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iBtrc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iBtrc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Various steel screws used for shower installations&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steel is actually preferable to brass where there is any real strength requirement — where a part is very heavy or put under stress during use — since brass screws are significantly less strong than steel screws of the same gauge. The reasons that brass is preferable in a marine environment are largely to do with corrosion, and that doesn't apply in quite the same way in a bathroom setting where there's no exposure to salt water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not certain when you say steel whether the screws in your case are bare, if you're worried about corrosion down the line you could insist on zinc-plated screws or stainless steel being used, but going by common practice it doesn't appear there's any reason to be concerned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-03-06T09:43:55.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1401" CreationDate="2016-03-06T16:31:32.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't have access to a drill press then this two-step approach might work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Drill a guide hole at the desired angle.  You can cut a 2x4 at the exact angle using a radial saw and use it as a jig for the drill (see photos below).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a hole saw with a pilot bit (or a forstner bit) to cut the larger hole using the initial guide hole for precision.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PKaNY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PKaNY.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A9i0r.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A9i0r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1973" LastActivityDate="2016-03-06T16:31:32.180" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3577" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3579" CreationDate="2016-03-06T16:54:58.737" Score="16" ViewCount="16425" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a consistent problem with warped sheet goods, particularly plywood and MDF. They always seem flat when I buy them, but by the time I use them they are always curved or twisted. It's a source of constant frustration. Even 3/4&quot; stuff gets a slight curve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way I've always stored everything is simply to lean piles of it against a wall. I don't have a lot of space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a recent comments discussion it dawned on me that this might be the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Totally off topic, but how did the MDF warp in the first place? I have this problem where none of my MDF stays straight, and it frustrates me because all I hear about is how stable MDF is. – Jason C &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The piece was stored vertically and had leaned a bit in the storage rack causing a slight twist. – Ashlar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: Could this be my problem? Can storing these sheets vertically be causing all the warping?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, is there a way to store sheet goods vertically without damaging them? I don't have the space to stack them horizontally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2016-06-15T02:07:57.347" LastActivityDate="2020-12-05T12:01:36.183" Title="Is vertical storage of sheet goods causing my boards to warp?" Tags="|plywood|mdf|storage|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3577" CreationDate="2016-03-06T17:12:03.320" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you lean stuff against a wall at an angle, it's weight will tend to cause it to bow. If you can stand it fully upright with support on both sides that will be less likely to happen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you can figure out a way to support it lower down, so the middle can't sag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, of course, you can lay it flat if you have space to do so (most folks don't). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or delay buying until you're ready to use it, so it doesn't have time to pick up a bend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-03-06T17:12:03.320" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3577" CreationDate="2016-03-06T18:17:28.153" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;MDF is heavy and we all know that. Like keshlam says if it is not supported across its vertical span then it will pull itself down slowly warping it. Gravity is a [w]itch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now if you cannot store it &lt;em&gt;perfectly&lt;/em&gt; vertical then you are not out of options. I couldn't imagine the space needed for some larger sheets however you should be able to get away from perfect verticals as long as you support it. A half a-frame comes to mind in an effort to take up less space. Idea being to discourage as much movement as possible. I could hang onto wood for years until I know what I am doing with it. This should be an efficient use of near vertical space. Depending on design you &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; hide boards inside the frame as well if you are not up to wasting space.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rK4hl.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rK4hl.png&quot; alt=&quot;Half a-frame&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.occrating.com/orangecounty/crating-packing-shipping-cypress.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Orange County Crating&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lean the sheet but brace it as much as possible so as to not allow movement. I suppose if you are worried about the edges, which can damage easily, then you could put down some cloth along the bottom to cushion it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the size of your sheets this might not be realistic though. Laying it flat also comes to mind but that is not something most workshops can entertain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2016-03-06T18:17:28.153" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3566" CreationDate="2016-03-06T19:42:48.347" Score="18" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a way to sharpen/restore old files?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. The classic old method to sharpen a file is &lt;em&gt;vinegar sharpening&lt;/em&gt; which is exactly what the name suggests, soaking the files in vinegar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that we know the active ingredient in vinegar is acetic acid we can make the obvious educated guess that it's an etching effect from an acid. And it is known that other acids do the same job and were used in the past. Two of the best alternatives because of easy access are citric acid and sulphuric acid (e.g. battery acid). It's best not to use hydrochloric even if you already have some, many sources speak of the risk of &lt;em&gt;hydrogen embrittlement&lt;/em&gt; when using HCl so it's best not to risk it since files are already brittle enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acid etching works best on files where they are not heavily worn but are just rounded from use and no longer cutting well. Where there is any scoring/scratches or the teeth are worn down so far that there are flat shiny patches (hard to believe but you do occasionally see old files that had been used that hard!) you won't recover a usable surface. But files are nearly always double-sided and because this is inexpensive and largely a hands-off process that mostly requires patient waiting it can be worth it for a file even if it only has one side worth salvaging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Degreasing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You say you've used solvents and that is one good way to start the process off as a file must be thoroughly degreased before soaking in acid to give it unimpeded access to the metal, ensuring even results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to organic solvents you can also soak in oven cleaner, or a hot solution of washing soda. Both will eat any form of grease and pose no harm to the steel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to use solvents I wouldn't rely on mineral spirits/white spirit alone, soak in spirits to begin with then dry off and brush down or soak in acetone or lacquer thinner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cleaning&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If the files have any clogging this should be removed before etching, again to give the acid full access to the surface of the file. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to using a 'file card' (a type of brass-wire brush specifically intended for cleaning swarf from files) there are other methods, including pushing in the direction of the grooves using the corner of a scrap of hardwood or the edge of a piece of brass. But some material clogging files can be very tenacious (a good example is aluminium) so you will sometimes have to resort to picking bits out of the teeth patiently with a needle or another sharp steel tool. If using a needle your hand muscles will thank you for chucking it up in a pin vice or permanently mounting it in a wooden handle rather than just gripping the needle in your fingers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This picking away is just as tedious as it sounds, and can take anywhere from a few minutes to an hour of concentrated work per side, but it's worth every second of the effort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to quickly degrease a file again after cleaning, especially if you've done the work with bare hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: you can clean first prior to the degreasing step, but I've found that clogging residue (esp. wood) can be much easier to remove from a file that was thoroughly degreased first, and it's easier to see it all anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rust&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As you might expect if the file is rusted soaking in acid will simultaneously clean the rust from it, so this is a very useful technique for secondhand files picked up from various sources since you'll clean them of rust while also improving how they cut. But don't expect too much if the file has any heavy rust encrustations, after the rust is gone some pits can be left behind. While on some tools pits can be merely a cosmetic issue on files they can impact performance, in the worse cases leading to irregular abrading of the workpiece or scratches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After soaking in vinegar or another acid even after rinsing thoroughly the files may start to rust again very quickly (flash rusting) so it's advisable to give them a quick spray of something like WD-40 immediately after to help halt this process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here are the steps:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brush off any loose matter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;degrease &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;clean off all debris&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;degrease a second time if thought necessary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;soak in your chosen acid*&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rinse &lt;em&gt;thoroughly&lt;/em&gt; then give the file a quick scrub with a stiff brush (a toothbrush is ideal) using common hand soap &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pat dry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shoot with WD-40 or another water-displacement agent, or dry thoroughly using a hairdryer or by placing in a warm oven&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*No real guidance can be give on the time needed to soak a file. Using vinegar for example while you can typically get some improvement with just an overnight soak, with some vinegars, on some files, you may need to soak for &lt;em&gt;two or more days&lt;/em&gt; before you judge it has done all it can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The strength and concentration of the acid being used, the coarseness of the file and the amount of wear all have a huge impact on the time needed. So for stronger acids on finer files you may want to remove them from soaking after just an hour to check progress, with a weaker vinegar on a coarse file leave overnight to begin with and expect that it might take much longer to achieve the desired result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the process is completed the file should be quite uniformly dull and grey, and rubbing a thumb over the teeth it should feel very 'grabby', much more so than many files are straight from the factory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some self-explanatory pictures of the restoration of some files I bought last year:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WjjqU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WjjqU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;File restoration 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fFeQz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fFeQz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;File restoration 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/POCAc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/POCAc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Files soaking in vinegar&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here they are with the work completed, with handles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UkJ96.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UkJ96.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shellacked file handles&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note the characteristic dull grey appearance of files treated this way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Commercial sharpening&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are commercial file-sharpening operations out there in the world and some people rave about the quality of the work. Some users are so impressed by the results — often stating that files treated this way are sharper than any you get straight from the factory, irrespective of cost — that they buy new files and send them straight to be sharpened before ever being used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems fairly certain that these companies don't do any sort of re-cutting of the file teeth as one might first think, but instead they all use some form of acid etching. Although they may have any number of additional steps (including post-etching treatments to improve rust-resistance) there's no reason to suppose you can't get results similar to or as good etching your files at home in the manner described.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-03-12T15:01:02.530" LastActivityDate="2016-03-12T15:01:02.530" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3582" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3591" CreationDate="2016-03-06T22:58:27.343" Score="3" ViewCount="520" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a set of bookshelfs I decided to slice up a 4*8 sheet of cabinet grade plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First I broke down what would form the sides I intended the shelves to be 6 inches deep for DVDs and 45 inches tall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a 48x27 inch sheet cut out of the larger board I routed out the dados and rabbets while a single sheet so I was sure every thing would line up.  I set my table saw to 6 inches and started cutting me sides blissfully confident that my rip fence would let me make consistent sides and shelves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;what I got was a set of oddly bowed and tapered boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think what happened is I was applying too much side pressure against the fence causing the cheap fence on my contractors saw to flex out on the rear of the saw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know my fence is normally straight and I also know I can push the back about 1/2 an inch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to mitigate this? Can I clamp the rear of the fence safely? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1874" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T17:18:19.763" Title="Cheap table saw fence techniques" Tags="|table-saw|fence|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3583" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-07T00:09:37.330" Score="8" ViewCount="336" Body="&lt;p&gt;My shop is mostly complete, but one gap is a wood lathe.  I have lived without one, but I could use some custom turnings from time to time and have avoided turning bowls etc. although I would like to add that skill to my arsenal.  I am a a retired hobbyist so high production capabilities and heavy use will not be needed, but I want to make sure that the lathe can do all the basics.  So what features are best and what tools and other accessories are most useful? Also, I am looking at used equipment so other than the motor, what key components should I scrutinize for problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-03-07T01:03:29.077" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T21:59:47.803" Title="What features and accessories should I look for in purchasing a used lathe" Tags="|tool-selection|lathe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3566" CreationDate="2016-03-07T11:01:39.140" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ferric Chloride (III) can be used also. But it's better to purchase a new file rather than to refurbish it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1954" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T11:01:39.140" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3586" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3594" CreationDate="2016-03-07T14:28:26.983" Score="6" ViewCount="10646" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drilled several holes in my desk to put some grommets using a 7/8&quot; hole saw bit.  Unfortunately, I realized afterwards that the hole was supposed to be 1&quot; to fit my grommets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, despite knowing better, I used my 1&quot; hole saw bit in an attempt to make the holes the correct size.  Although I was able to make the hole larger, the new hole did not come out clean at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The obvious solution to this would be to clamp a piece of plywood behind the hole to use as a pilot.  However, the position of the holes make this solution pretty unfeasible - they are in the back of the shelf of a large hutch - i would need to get a very long piece of wood with some huge clamps in order to make that solution work (unless I am missing something):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HOXOx.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HOXOx.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way of fixing this?  I could get the next larger size of grommet (1.5&quot;) and make the hole larger, but which bit would be the best for this task?  I have never used a Forstner bit - but it looks like it might be promising.  Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1980" LastEditorUserId="1980" LastEditDate="2016-03-07T15:27:48.347" LastActivityDate="2018-06-23T07:01:34.243" Title="Enlarging a Hole made by a Hole Saw" Tags="|drilling|drill-bits|hole-saw|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3586" CreationDate="2016-03-07T14:56:15.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With your 1.5&quot; holesaw, cut a nice hole in a chunk of scrap plywood. Clamp this to the location of the old hole, and drill away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Unless you plan to wrestle your desk to a drill press, the forstner will do you no good at all.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T14:56:15.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3577" CreationDate="2016-03-07T15:11:54.430" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Moisture can add to this problem.  Do not let the wood come in contact with cement or concrete block.  They will need to be supported in the back and possibly held down in the front.  Even when stored horizontal they can warp if moisture is present.  In the lumber yard they come in banded together but a few day after they cut the bands the top sheets may start to warp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T15:11:54.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3586" CreationDate="2016-03-07T16:09:19.110" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are unable to move the piece or provide additional access (as you describe), then another approach might be to cut a wood plug the same diameter as the current hole and glue it in place in the hole.  Once it is set up you can begin drilling again using the larger bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-03-07T18:09:42.143" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T18:09:42.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2801" CreationDate="2016-03-07T16:35:40.843" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jason's link in the comments was a really helpful starting point and introduced me to chalk based paint which is interesting to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I ended up doing is the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Prime the board with bin (any oil/alcohol based primer will do).  Spray paint is a pain to work with in terms of evenness and bleed through.  Prepping the board with this stuff helps you get an even coat.  Sand well once dry.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Spray the board with metallic gold paint, 2 - 3 coats as needed.  Looking back I probably should have gone with a bronze/copper/brass color.  The gold was shiny and metallic but more subdued than what I was looking for.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Apply the chalk based paint.  Slap it on like a first grader, sloppy and uneven, don't even worry about brush stroke direction.  Knowing copper for example, tarnishes green I used a dark green color.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As the chalk paint begins to dry get a damp to wet rag (more wet will remove more paint) and rub down the chalk paint removing as much or as little as you want.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clear gloss.  Spray three or four coats of clear gloss, go light, make sure it goes on even and doesn't run.  This gives the boards you are working on some dimension.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lightly sand&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For my topcoat I ended up going with something rather dark.  I used a hammered brass finish.  Spray to taste, I tended to spray where I had left more chalk paint behind. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's it (ok it admittedly took a while) but the effect turns out pretty well and having done it once I have ideas for how I would get different effects now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pictures!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3v9wH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3v9wH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kFC2b.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kFC2b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ausn6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ausn6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="212" LastEditorUserId="212" LastEditDate="2016-03-07T19:02:55.687" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T19:02:55.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3582" CreationDate="2016-03-07T17:18:19.763" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My dad had a crappy old fence on his old table saw.  When accuracy was important we used a straight edge, (usually a board) and clamped it to the table.  It was a major pain to measure, clamp, and then adjust because we moved it tightening down the clamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what I'm getting at is as long as the clamp does not interfere with the path of the wood passed the blade and fence, using a clamp to keep your fence from moving shouldn't be a big deal.  Of course you'll want to make sure that the far end isn't closer to the blade than the back end (or you'll bind the blade!) and you might want a clamp on both ends, just in case by having the far side clamped the near side doesn't start moving (and binding the blade!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T17:18:19.763" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3592" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3596" CreationDate="2016-03-07T17:23:55.957" Score="5" ViewCount="7905" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a kid during the days of Little League (my last close contact with baseball), we always admonished one another not to hit the ball on the trademark of the bat.  You'll break it!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, occasionally one of us would manage to break a bat, but we never knew whether the trademark was involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where should the trademark be placed to lessen chances of breaking or does burning a trademark into the barrel weaken the bat? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-03-09T05:18:26.337" LastActivityDate="2023-06-05T23:54:16.263" Title="Where should the trademark be placed on a baseball bat?" Tags="|design|strength|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3592" CreationDate="2016-03-07T17:31:45.107" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is correct, the trademark side of the bat should not be used to hit the ball. The trademark is stamped on the weakest part of the bat - notice it's always in the same position with relation to the grain of the wood. Hitting the ball with this area has a higher chance of breaking the bat, since it's the weakest point on the bat. That's not to say that any hit on the trademark will instantly shatter your bat, or that hitting off the trademark makes a bat indestructible, but the chances are higher. When going to bat, you should be looking at the trademark when you hold the bat up in front of you, so that the ball hits about 90 degrees from the trademark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I learned this directly from the manufacturer, at the Louisville Slugger factory in Louisville, KY.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1982" LastEditorUserId="1982" LastEditDate="2016-03-08T09:04:28.560" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T09:04:28.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3586" CreationDate="2016-03-07T18:45:14.347" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lee Valley (I'm sure you can get it elsewhere) sells a product called an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=52518&amp;amp;cat=1,180,42316&amp;amp;ap=1&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Oops Arbor&lt;/a&gt; that allows you to mount two hole saws to a single arbor.  The smaller one is held further out from the larger one allowing it to support itself as it drills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5vgUE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5vgUE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;from http://www.leevalley.com/en/images/item/woodworking/drilling/30n0390-inset.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ooiLP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ooiLP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;From http://www.leevalley.com/en/images/item/woodworking/drilling/30n0390s.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastEditorUserId="1573" LastEditDate="2016-03-08T02:19:55.647" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T02:19:55.647" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3586" CreationDate="2016-03-07T20:05:33.203" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you and can disassemble the piece and have a router with a rabbet bit, you can enlarge the hole by going around with depth set less than the full thickness of the material and the bearing against the edge of the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then flip the piece over, attach a bottom-bearing flush-trim bit, and set the depth so it bears against the edge of the rabbet you just cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can calculate the width of the cut by subtracting the diameter of the bearing from the diameter of the rabbeting bit and dividing by two.  E.g. if your rabbet bit is 3/4&quot; diameter has a guide bearing of 1/2&quot;, it would give you the extra 1/8&quot; you need, as would any combination of bit/bearing where the difference in diameters = 1/4&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1983" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T20:05:33.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3592" CreationDate="2016-03-07T20:10:00.260" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there any truth to breaking a bat by hitting on the trademark&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes there is. Traditionally the logo or label is located in a specific orientation to the grain in the wood, leading to the guideline that the logo should face the sky or the ground (&quot;logo up or logo down&quot;) meaning you would be hitting the ball at 90° to the position of the logo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As one manufacturer puts it: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;There is a proper side to hit on, so be sure to also see the answer to the next question.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;...[by orienting the label up or down] you'll be making contact with the area on the &quot;side&quot; of the bat where the grains are layered---the strongest &quot;side&quot; of the bat.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, and as usual, it's not quite as simple as that because more than one species is used to make baseball bats and they have quite different structures. Also there is more than one type of breakage/failure (in the handle area or the barrel). More info here on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodbat.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;WoodBats.Org&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;does burning a trademark into the barrel weaken the bat? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's placed in the traditional location, I doubt it. It's at a right angle to the primary forces the bat is (should be) subjected to, so it should normally have no effect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A burned-in logo would normally only involve the surface anyway. It is possible that if you burn very deeply it might compromise the wood if the logo is placed atypically, but I think that you'd have to have both conditions met for it to affect a bat's strength — so both burned far too deep and in the wrong orientation to the grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-03-08T16:23:06.963" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T16:23:06.963" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3583" CreationDate="2016-03-07T21:59:47.803" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are lots of things to look for in a lathe.  But you need to figure out your parameters.  Size is probably the first and most important consideration.  A mini lathe is designed for smaller things, most commonly pens.  Granted there are many things you can turn on them, but they have a small turning diameter and generally short beds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are midi-lathes, and they are larger than the mini's and thus can turn larger items.  Most midi lathes have a swing ~10&quot; in diameter.  Which means if you are lucky, you can turn a bowl 9.5&quot; finished diameter.  Most midi lathes have bed extensions to increase the length of spindle work they can do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mini and midi lathes (to my knowledge) are all bench top models and thus can be 'put away' when not in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then we have full sized lathes.  Some models are bench top, but most are floor models.  If you go with a bench top likely you will need to bolt it very securely to a very sturdy bench if you try turning larger pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the weight of a lathe can be a pain for moving it around, a heavy lathe will make you happy once you start turning large or awkward pieces.  It helps reduce vibrations and shaking, Most floor models are designed to allow for weight to be added between the legs to help absorb vibrations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, some of the features that might or might not be important to you on a lathe. All of these things are available on different models and you need to decide what features are important to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A movable head.  Some heads will spin 180 degrees, other will slide to the end of the bed.  In both cases, this allows for off bed turning, allowing for much larger diameter turnings, it does however require an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=lathe%20outboard%20tool%20rest&amp;amp;rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS603US603&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;biw=1080&amp;amp;bih=1859&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;imgil=Am5vL2FMrmKjbM%253A%253BE_-lfvPETeUJoM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.vicmarc.com%25252F%25253FcontentID%2525253D545&amp;amp;source=iu&amp;amp;pf=m&amp;amp;fir=Am5vL2FMrmKjbM%253A%252CE_-lfvPETeUJoM%252C_&amp;amp;usg=__I6IL2dY3ucRgtE7MiEZ6Zf1fspg%3D&amp;amp;dpr=1&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwigsKOwwq_LAhWokoMKHTXVBfIQyjcIWA&amp;amp;ei=iPLdVqDMNKiljgS1qpeQDw#imgrc=Am5vL2FMrmKjbM%3A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;outboard tool rest&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A variable speed 'rheostat' type control.  Infinitely variable speed between a max and min.  This allows for more control and is easier to dial in a faster speed short of bad vibrations.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;reversible motor. I find this a luxury I can't live without, since I find it significantly reduces the time I spend sanding a piece, my least favorite part.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;indexing, Being able to lock the piece at set angles.  This is primarily used for fluting&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://assets.rockler.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/720x720/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/2/8/28877-01-1000.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://assets.rockler.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/720x720/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/2/8/28877-01-1000.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are whole answers for how to attach your wood to the lathe, with &lt;a href=&quot;https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcR5s2YBROa45NcjD2BbPJ4gG4Iz6lDwHQbncDVafVbo1M0K8lm_&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;screws&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=fluting&amp;amp;rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS603US603&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;biw=1080&amp;amp;bih=1859&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwiwkovFw6_LAhUimoMKHSabARQQ_AUIBigB#tbm=isch&amp;amp;q=chuck%20lathe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;chucks&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=fluting&amp;amp;rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS603US603&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;biw=1080&amp;amp;bih=1859&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwiwkovFw6_LAhUimoMKHSabARQQ_AUIBigB#tbm=isch&amp;amp;q=faceplate%20lathe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;faceplates&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=fluting&amp;amp;rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS603US603&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;biw=1080&amp;amp;bih=1859&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwiwkovFw6_LAhUimoMKHSabARQQ_AUIBigB#tbm=isch&amp;amp;q=drive%20center%20lathe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;drive centers&lt;/a&gt;.  Each allows for different types of turning.  But most lathes come with at least a drive center and a faceplate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also all the chisels/knives.  I already answered about chisels for a &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/499/which-first-gouges-to-get-for-a-beginning-turner/501#501&quot;&gt;beginner here.&lt;/a&gt; Though there are many more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also many other tools available out there, duplicators, coring systems, texture tools, steady's etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as far as looking at a used lathe.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The motor of course should still work and be relatively smooth.  (for the right price you can get a new motor though!)  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bed should be smooth and clean, when the motor runs not under load there shouldn't be any rocking or jumping of the lathe.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the rest is locked down it should be firm and not move around.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if you have an empty faceplate on the lathe with it running, you shouldn't see any wobble.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T21:59:47.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3598" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3599" CreationDate="2016-03-08T05:31:11.343" Score="5" ViewCount="1021" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am remodeling my kids sandbox and shrinking it from 12'x 8' to 8'x8' square. It is approximately 25&quot; in depth. I will be using two &quot;boxes&quot; on top of each other made of redwood 2x10s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering how easily (or even possibly) I could make finger joints to join the corners of the wood in order to make them as strong as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is a possibility, would be using a jig saw and some chisels be my best bet to make it happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1988" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T03:11:39.010" Title="Finger Joints on a 2x10" Tags="|joinery|box-joint|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3598" CreationDate="2016-03-08T09:07:41.157" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;A jigsaw and chisels are quite adequate for making finger joints in thick stock like that. Some tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carefully mark both sides of the joint, making sure to mark the waste clearly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When cutting the waste with the jigsaw, cut away from the line, into the waste area. This will make the waste area a little too small, and can be fine tuned with the chisel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fine tune the joint by dry-fitting, trimming a little and fitting again. Do this until the joint is snug (meaning you can join the parts by hand with some effort, but don't need a mallet to force the parts together).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the jigsaw to cut away as much of the waste as possible, reducing the amount of wood you need to trim with the chisel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep your chisels sharp. Even though it's just redwood, a sharp chisel is always much easier (and safer) to work with than a dull one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, since this goes outdoors, make sure to use a water-proof wood glue, such as Titebond III.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T09:07:41.157" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3598" CreationDate="2016-03-08T13:28:49.593" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would be wary of this approach myself. Joinery works best when you have a near perfect fit with no gaps. In my experience  &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2446/my-jigsaw-is-terrible-at-cutting-vertically-through-a-simple-2x4&quot;&gt;My jigsaw is terrible at cutting vertically through a simple 2x4&lt;/a&gt;'s. I expect you might have gaps that won't make good glue joints. That is unless you make sure you leave a good chunk of waste for the chisels to clean after so as to be sure you stay in the lines as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the size of your wood I can't imagine that your fingers are going to be too small. Obviously you are not against hand tools so I would suggest a simple crosscut saw. You would still need to clean with chisels but some might consider this more fulfilling of a project using just hand tools! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can't emphasize enough the importance of outdoor glue if you choose to go this route. Finger joints expose more of the wood to the elements so you are creating more potential crevasses for water an potentially ice depending where you live. Both can reduce the effectiveness of the joint and appearance over time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For added strength you &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; drill down into the fingers (from the top and &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; assembled) and glue a dowel in there. That is most likely not necessary though. Also could be difficult making a ~10 inch hole and keeping it straight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T15:25:33.013" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3601" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3602" CreationDate="2016-03-08T19:04:57.320" Score="6" ViewCount="2386" Body="&lt;p&gt;I make my own wiping polyurethane by thinning regular oil-based poly from home improvement stores with mineral spirits. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/finishing/the_basics_of_wiping_varnish2&quot;&gt;According to Bob Flexner&lt;/a&gt;, the only difference between this and polyurethane-based wiping varnish is that the varnish also contains linseed oil, tung oil, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than the color imparted by the oil, is there any difference between the two finishes? Can I just apply BLO to the wood and cover it with polyurethane?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="81" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T00:11:22.333" Title="What is the difference between wiping polyurethane and wiping varnish?" Tags="|finishing|varnish|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3601" CreationDate="2016-03-09T00:11:22.333" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is the difference between wiping polyurethane and wiping varnish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There can be no difference, they could be the same thing. Although note that sometimes &quot;wiping polyurethane&quot; refers to the application method, not the product used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What we call polyurethane or poly is a type of varnish, a fuller name for it would be polyurethane varnish although some people don't like calling it that it's perfectly accurate. Strangely given the name the polyurethane is merely an additive, actually present at quite a low level. All polys of this type are actually modified versions of an alkyd varnish, so they're technically &lt;em&gt;uralkyd varnish&lt;/em&gt;, but uralkyd is considered an ugly word or something so it's rarely seen on labels on consumer-level packaging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note for anyone new to finishing: this refers to oil-based polyurethane only, not waterbased &quot;polyurethane varnish&quot; (which is not really a varnish in the conventional meaning of the word). The &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; thing they have in common is the addition of some polyurethane, they're actually completely different otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;According to Bob Flexner, the only difference between this and polyurethane-based wiping varnish is that the varnish also contains linseed oil, tung oil, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've slightly misread that page. Earlier on Flexner states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;All types of varnish are made by cooking an oil with a resin.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And lower down under &lt;strong&gt;Make Your Own&lt;/strong&gt; where he says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;After choosing a varnish, turn it into a wiping varnish by thinning it with mineral spirits.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No additional oil is needed to turn a regular varnish into a wiping varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can add more oil to a thinned varnish if you want to, but this replicates something like &quot;Danish oil&quot;, not merely a wiping varnish. Products of the &quot;Danish oil&quot; type are typically said to contain approximately a 1:1:1 mixture of varnish, an oil (BLO or tung oil usually) and spirits (or turpentine if the user prefers the smell, or believes it improves its characteristics).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can I just apply BLO to the wood and cover it with polyurethane?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes you can. This isn't that uncommon. The main reason you might chose to do this rather than applying the varnish directly to the bare wood is to improve the wetting of the grain, enhancing the figure in the wood (commonly referred to as &quot;popping the grain&quot;). Oils, &lt;em&gt;on some woods&lt;/em&gt;, give increased contrast as well as enhancing any chatoyance (cat's eye effect) compared to the same wood with the varnish applied directly to it. On other woods there's little difference, little enough that it's often not worth the extra effort. And on others there's no difference you'd notice, except for the slightly yellower colour imparted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not just a species-by-species thing, the grain in individual pieces of wood can make all the difference, so obviously this is an area where you need to do some experimentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But an example of where you might want to oil first is on a darker wood with good figure, such as burr walnut or ribbon-stripe mahogany, to improve contrast and maximise the chatoyance. An example of where you'd probably want to skip it is any light-coloured wood with straight grain, such as plain maple or clear white pine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T00:11:22.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3598" CreationDate="2016-03-09T03:11:39.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Skip the box joints and consider some type of joinery which offers mechanical resistance in at least one direction.  For example, mortise and tenon or hand-cut dovetails resist movement along one axis.  The amount of effort you'll expend using a jigsaw and cleaning up the cuts with a chisel will almost certainly exceed the effort required to join the corners with hand-cut dovetails.  With the box joints, you won't gain the inherent mechanical resistance; and if you have a cheap jigsaw (&amp;lt;$100), your cuts will require a good amount of cleanup, regardless of the blade you use, simply because the guides on cheaper jigsaws allow the blade to deflect more easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also keep in mind that, as a sandbox, the corners will have to resist a tremendous amount of pressure and movement as the humidity changes day-to-day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be careful with your selection of glue, as PVA glue can &quot;creep&quot; or allow movement under constant tension and/or with high temperatures. Polyurethane glue hardens during curing and does not melt or creep once cured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T03:11:39.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3592" CreationDate="2016-03-09T13:36:59.143" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just done a bit of research (OK... I did a google image search, but the results seem to be consistent) and it seems like the logo is always burned into / painted onto the same part of the bat, in relation to the grain direction:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XcVot.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XcVot.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Baseball bat with logo&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice that the logo is in the same orientation as the growth ring lines of the bat. This makes a lot of sense in the context of the advice &quot;don't hit the ball with the logo side&quot; since the wood will separate more readily between the growth rings than it will at 90° to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially what you're trying to avoid is this, which is separation along the growth rings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NSn9T.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NSn9T.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Broken wooden baseball bat&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I suspect it's not the act of burning / painting the logo onto the bat that weakens it, rather that the position of the logo is chosen based on the grain direction, which is what determines the directional strength of the bat. The way I've seen it explained is like the difference between hitting a ball with the edge of a deck of cards or the face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The broken bat image is from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodbat.org&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Wood bat info&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; which is a site which seems to have some good info on wooden bats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The link above actually has some good info about different wood types etc. and  growth ring density affect a bat's performance. Generally though the rule about placing the logo on the flat of the grain, and avoiding hitting the ball with the logo stands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastEditorUserId="272" LastEditDate="2016-03-09T13:49:33.307" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T13:49:33.307" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3605" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3608" CreationDate="2016-03-09T14:51:01.870" Score="4" ViewCount="3602" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building some 6' x 2' x 1.5' (depth) cedar planter boxes for specific locations on concrete outdoors. The boxes need to sit as close to the ground as possible, a few inches max.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am building three of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The concrete is neither level nor flat (eyeballing it I would say it's up to a 2-3&quot; height difference in some places), and throwing down a level concrete pad is not an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The challenge is that the boxes will probably each be holding about 1500-1800 lbs of soil. Additionally, they will have little kids climbing all over them, so it's important that they do not wobble and that any supports underneath do not collapse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other challenge is they sit against a wall. So I will only have direct access to one side once they are fully built.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently the basis for the design is pretty simple. I plan to build a pretty standard floor frame with 2x3 or 2x4 joists every 18&quot;-ish, with the box built on top of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I'm not sure how to build supports to level it. The shape of the ground is very complex and doesn't lend itself well to simple measurements and cuts. Also I don't want to paint myself into a corner and make it impossible to build, I need to construct it in such a way that I don't have to tear the whole thing apart if I don't get it level on the first try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The boxes don't have to move once they are placed. They will be there until they rot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I do this? How can I build a stable, level support for 1500+ lbs on an uneven concrete surface?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking about using those adjustable height feet with threaded rod, perhaps 8 of them around the perimeter of the base frame. Then I can level them before placing the box on top when I still have access to all the corners. But I don't have experience with these, and I'm concerned that they may wobble and collapse with sideways force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had also thought about cutting 2x4s to the contour of the ground and sitting everything on those. But I don't know how to transfer the ground contours to a cut pattern (Intel has those cool cheap 3D cameras out and I honestly considered grabbing one, but I don't have enough time to wait for one to arrive then develop software to generate contours), and when I run through this idea in my head, I see all sorts of opportunity for frustration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2016-03-10T00:10:39.423" LastActivityDate="2016-03-10T00:10:39.423" Title="Supporting a level box on an uneven surface" Tags="|design|strength|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3605" CreationDate="2016-03-09T15:29:46.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think your concerns with the adjustable height feet may be unfounded, especially if you only need to raise the boxes by 2-3&quot;. I doubt that they would collapse with sideways force if you source the heaviest-duty ones you can find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, it's pretty common when building things like this to pack the box on pieces of slate. Slate is easily broken up and stacked in thin layers to overcome unevenness like this and it's very good at supporting heavy loads i.e. it won't crumble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T15:29:46.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2595" CreationDate="2016-03-09T15:30:19.530" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sent Delta an email:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;From: Jason C&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2016 8:15 PM&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  To: Customer Care &amp;lt;customercare@dpec-na.com&amp;gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Subject: 50-767 dust collection bag mounts&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The 50-767 offers both a cloth-covered ring and a metal clamp&#xA;  as options for attaching the collection bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is the difference between these two options? Does one provide a&#xA;  better seal? Is it a tradeoff of convenience vs. seal? Why would you&#xA;  choose one over the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And they said:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It’s just a personal preference.  You get a good seal w/either.  Our tech dept can be reached at 866-999-1499 if you have further questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it doesn't seem to matter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if you look at the manual, the last step for the ring option is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Tug slightly on the bag to eliminate any slack and to make sure that the bag is secure and will not detach during collection. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does seem to imply that there is at least enough of a risk of the user attaching the bag incorrectly with this method to mention it in the manual. This seems to be user error, though, not attachment failure. It also seems to be a minor risk, based on the customer service reply and the fact that nobody really seems to have a strong opinion either way (lack of answers posted to this question is some example evidence here).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hypothesize (this is just my personal opinion), that the reason both methods were provided is that both are good, and it is cheaper and easier for Delta to provide both methods and let the user choose than it is for them to potentially drive away customers that have a preference one way or the other (plus, empowering the user to make a decision, even a small one, is a nice way to improve the product image). I can certainly imagine that some folks may e.g. trust the clamp over the ring, and others may value the convenience of the ring - and regardless of whether or not either of these preferences is based in truth, by providing both, Delta doesn't have to deal with a debate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Or it may be an even simpler reason: Maybe in a design meeting they got into a heated debate about which one to use, until one sane hero stepped up and said &quot;let's just use both; next discussion item please, I don't have all day&quot;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2016-03-09T15:37:09.470" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T15:37:09.470" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3605" CreationDate="2016-03-09T15:34:50.503" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would build the support frame for under the boxes, just the frame (out of treated 2x4's).  Then find your where you want the boxes to rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you scribe your 2x4's with a compass.  You get your frame some what level, then set the compass (generally to the max gap, but only if you want the whole frame resting on the ground) and go around with the compass point on the ground and where the ground pushes up, the pencil will mark the board where it needs to be cut to 'relieve' the ground underneath.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had to do this a bit with my dad's log home.  All trim had to be scribed to get a nice fit with the logs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have your frame ready (and mark where the corners are on the concrete!) you can attach it to the bottom of your boxes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vcxnI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vcxnI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T15:34:50.503" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3605" CreationDate="2016-03-09T17:24:37.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could build a square or rectangular wooden frame, level to the top of this, using long spirit levels, filling any gaps below due to uneven ground, with, say, moist sand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then fill the frame completely with something like plaster of Paris, which being liquid originally, automatically forms a horizontal surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove wooden frame, and sand the fill (the plaster, or whatever you decide to use) has set, filling in any unsightly gaps in edges, for example, where the sanded filling was, with the same substance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1992" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-03-09T18:21:02.923" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T18:21:02.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3605" CreationDate="2016-03-09T17:26:36.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adjustable &quot;threaded rod&quot; type of feet are a stable solution that will support a lot of weight, and they're basically wobble-free at such small heights (even more so if a thousand pounds rests on them, consider that the Newtonian laws apply to 1000-pound objects in particular, these do not move easily). They do cost quite a bit of money, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the &quot;technically correct&quot; approach is a different one, and it can be done with the wood that you already have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use three feet per box (not four), you are guaranteed that nothing can shake or wobble. A 2x4 will support virtually every weight if used as &quot;foot&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's not necessary that the dirt boxes can also serve as dinner table, but &lt;em&gt;&quot;approximately level, as good as the naked eye can tell&quot;&lt;/em&gt; is good enough (I daresay it is!), then you can even just cut the feet so they only &lt;em&gt;approximately&lt;/em&gt; have the correct height. There is no real need to be perfectly accurate to the millimeter. As long as each box has 3 feet, it's all good. Even if it may be slightly off level, the box is always guaranteed not to wobble. There is no way a tripod will do that in a 3D world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="135" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T17:26:36.297" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3605" CreationDate="2016-03-09T21:49:51.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would look into a sand base much like you would build for deck pavers.  It self levels can support tremendous loads.  If you were concerned with aesthetics, you could fashion some trim pre-treated shoe molding to fit at the bottom of the box to hide/contain the sand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1993" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T21:49:51.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3612" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3613" CreationDate="2016-03-10T06:18:46.230" Score="5" ViewCount="1447" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on building my first piece of furniture. I decided to go a bit big and went with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-Height-Adjustable-Desk/?ALLSTEPS&quot;&gt;height adjustable desk&lt;/a&gt;. I have the linear actuators and the electronics figured out. Today I purchased maple for the inner and outer legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am trying to figure out is what joining method/implement would work best in constructing these legs. In the linked design (above) for the desk they use butt joints and they use screws to construct the legs. But I was wondering if it would be better if I used wood glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fit the actuators, I am using 1x4's for the inner legs and 1x4's plus 1x6's for the outer legs. I want them to be strong and sturdy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The guy at Home Depot suggested I use deck screws and counter-sink them. If I go with screws, will the deck screws work just fine or should I use a different type?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1995" LastActivityDate="2016-03-10T12:49:42.887" Title="What joining methods would be best for the legs and other areas of a height adjustable desk?" Tags="|joinery|furniture|glue|screws|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3612" CreationDate="2016-03-10T12:49:42.887" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the linked design (above) for the desk they use butt joints and they use screws to construct the legs. But I was wondering if it would be better if I used wood glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some joints screws can be stronger than glue, but where face grain meets face grain a properly done glued joint is stronger than the wood itself, so not much need to reinforce that :-) In some cases it would be better to use both, a glued and screwed joint can be much more secure than either used alone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for the columns the legs rise in I'd go with glue only. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where I would probably retain screws is on the angled braces. They would very likely be more than strong enough if simply glued in place, but no harm in reinforcing. If you want those braces to be removable though screws only of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The guy at Home Depot suggested I use deck screws and counter-sink them. If I go with screws, will the deck screws work just fine or should I use a different type?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Deck screws should be fine. They may be overkill in terms of size (gauge) and/or length, you could very likely use basic wood screws without the result being weakened enough to worry about, but it's rare to regret going too strong instead of the opposite!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because you're using a fine-grained hardwood it's advisable to &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2708/are-there-specific-types-of-screws-i-should-use-for-woodworking/2714#2714&quot;&gt;pre-drill for the screws&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;counter-sink them&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although some woodworkers seem to be pathologically opposed to using screws in 'proper' woodworking jobs I have no issue with them myself, but, with few exceptions I don't like seeing screw heads on the finished job and they'd remain plainly visible if you just countersink them. So I'd do counterbores myself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kWciC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kWciC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Counterbore vs. countersink&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The small hole that the screw head hides at the bottom of could be filled with fillers of various kinds, a long-grain wooden plug or dowel (showing end grain), either to try to blend in or in a contrasting colour or grain if you want to make them more decorative. To make most of a feature of them use a turned wooden cap, AKA &quot;mushroom buttons&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZIzag.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZIzag.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mushroom button counterbore cap&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Source: Craftparts.com, which also sells other plug types]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to their decorative value these have a practical advantage if you haven't glued the respective joints. They can easily but levered from the hole, giving access to the screws should you need to do any adjustments or break the table down into its constituent parts for moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SZd2M.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SZd2M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Counterbore fill options&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-03-10T12:49:42.887" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3614" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3615" CreationDate="2016-03-11T18:29:39.747" Score="6" ViewCount="107014" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I paint wood, for outdoor use, while it is still very wet, what problems can I expect in the long run (2-3 years)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my specific case, I have pressure treated outdoor lumber (fir), which I purchased at Home Depot (where my only theory is that they store their wood in tanks of water before putting it on the shelves). The wood also feels relatively fresh based on the way it feels when I rip pieces off along the grain. The paint is an exterior latex paint with primer (Behr Exterior Premium Plus Ultra). I intend to paint every side, which will completely seal it with paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it's going to take weeks or months for this wood to dry out and I only really have a day or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't mind repainting in a year if it is just a matter of the paint not sticking. My main concern is effects on the wood itself due to trapped moisture and pressure treatment chemicals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2016-03-11T20:50:42.107" LastActivityDate="2018-12-23T15:24:19.253" Title="Long term, what happens if I paint wet wood?" Tags="|wood|paint|moisture|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3614" CreationDate="2016-03-11T21:32:54.127" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A paint chemist might have a cow over my answer, but I will give it a try.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of what finish you put on the wood, the surface must be dry.  In order to bond with the wood, the finish must be absorbed. If the surface is too wet an oil based finish will be rejected (oil and water don't mix).  If the finish is water based the excess water in the wood grain will prevent the finish from sinking onto the surface.  In either case the finish will cure without getting a good grip on the wood fibers and the finish will tend to peel off in short order.  A simple test to see if the surface is dry enough is to sprinkle some water on the surface of the wood.  If it beads up, the wood is too wet.  If it is readily absorbed then you can proceed with finishing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next concern is how much water is inside the wood.  Treated lumber is made using water infused with chemicals to prevent mold growth and insects. That is why it is so wet.  The wood goes directly from treatment to the lumber yard... no need to wait any longer.  This means that the wood will be evaporating water for some time (6 mos. to 1 year at a guess).  If the wood is not finished on all sides, the water has a path to get out, although warp and twist from unequal drying are possible. If all surfaces are well sealed then the water vapor will be more likely to blister the surface, finding the thinnest/weakest locations to break through as pressure increases inside.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not think the treatment chemicals in the wood will have an effect since they are present whether the wood is wet or dry.  There may be a possibility that they can be absorbed by the paint  and affect its performance or color. However that is just conjecture on my part.  A test sample should alleviate any concerns here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T21:32:54.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3616" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3619" CreationDate="2016-03-11T21:48:08.973" Score="2" ViewCount="4313" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the top view of a kind of folding box, actually a henhouse. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hKefH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hKefH.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The goal is to meet those three requirements:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;totally foldable when not in use, as flat as possible so that it's easy to move and store.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a free standing position when a wall is not available (area=100)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;an against the wall position when it's possible to use an existing wall.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each panel would be a light frame with chicken wire attached on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I solve the problem with the second hinge. It needs to somehow rotate in both directions. I don't see how this could be solved with permanently attached hinges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1682" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-03-11T22:47:05.793" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T09:25:46.593" Title="Which kind of hinges for a foldable box?" Tags="|hinges|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3616" CreationDate="2016-03-11T22:43:28.067" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you need is a double acting hinge. Different manufacturer's make variations but essentially they have two sets of pivots so that the door leaf can swing in either direction. I have seen spring action double hinges at home centers, but you can also call a local hardware supply company for variations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xsoXT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xsoXT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Double action hinge&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T22:43:28.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3616" CreationDate="2016-03-11T22:54:22.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How can I solve the problem with the second hinge. It needs to somehow rotate in both directions. I don't see how this could be solved with permanently attached hinges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two way hinges are wonderful things.  This illustration shows how they work and you can Google &quot;two way hinges&quot; and find many many suppliers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rVH8p.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rVH8p.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sdslondon.co.uk/product/twoway-screen-hinge.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are going to have a more fundamental problem which is that with flexible hinges you have an unstable structure.  Even if the the ends that touch the ground a firmly anchored, but still able to rotate the thing will collapse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;edit&lt;/strong&gt; :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oops.  I misunderstood your drawings.  I assumed that we were looking at your pen in elevation.  It's actually viewed from above, just as you said.  Sorry.  No bracing needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-03-12T01:38:50.187" LastActivityDate="2016-03-12T01:38:50.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3616" CreationDate="2016-03-11T22:59:48.583" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It needs to somehow rotate in both directions. I don't see how this could be solved with permanently attached hinges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could always use hinges that are designed to have the pins removed regularly.  These are called &quot;loose pins,&quot; and resemble that depicted below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would install them so that they fold in the direction you want for your box and arch configurations and just take the pins out for storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: now that I look at it again, these types of hinges would be very useful for your box configuration since they can &quot;complete&quot; the square and keep it from coming apart while still being disassemble-able, which is something that the two-way hinges can't do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0JAdg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0JAdg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;loose pin&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mutualhardware.com/Theatrical-Set-Hardware/Theatrical-Hinges/Modified-Loose-Pin-Backflap&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit #2: As you've indicated, where you live you haven't been able to find these types of hinges.  They would be simple enough to make with normal hinges by removing the pin and replacing it with a custom-fit pin that you make yourself.  A bent nail would work (the ones linked above recommend a 20 penny nail as a replacement pin, for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-03-12T16:47:09.440" LastActivityDate="2016-03-12T16:47:09.440" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3614" CreationDate="2016-03-11T23:29:07.087" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The usual advice from the lumber yard is to wait a year before painting pressure treated wood.  It's really CMA advice which assures that the wood will be ready to paint and avoid the pitfalls of painting wet wood - it should be dry within in a year, no matter what happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;However&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-paint-pressuretreated-wood&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this source&lt;/a&gt; (many pop-up when you Google &quot;painting pressure treated wood&quot;) gives a concise 5 step process for painting pressure treated wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wash the surface with soap and a stiff brush and rinse.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait for it to dry (possibly weeks or months) - check for dryness by sprinkling with a water - if it beads-up, it's still wet.  If it soaks in, you're good to go.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prime the surface with primer designed for exterior use on pressure treated wood.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let the primer dry - may take a couple of days.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paint&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you paint the wood before it is dry you will surely regret it. The paint will blister and peel, but will not peel completely.  You will be faced with scraping and extensive unpleasant surface preparation before you repaint. Some things simply should not be rushed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T23:29:07.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3614" CreationDate="2016-03-12T14:49:12.473" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I paint wood, for outdoor use, while it is still very wet, what problems can I expect in the long run (2-3 years)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the issues that should concern you are more short term than long term, and that is failure of the paint and not a problem with the wood.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I think this might be a case where nobody can tell you for sure what's going to happen. Although obviously being cautious and waiting wouldn't be a bad idea, there's nothing to say for sure painting early the paint &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; fail. It's just more likely, not a sure thing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advice on this front, whether based on individual experience, book learning or manufacturer literature, will largely agree that the shouldn't paint onto a wet surface. But what does 'wet' actually mean? Wet and dry are in many ways relative terms, not absolutes. For example say you were working with wood that's at equilibrium with the local environment, of course that environment dictates how dry the wood actually is. So quite obviously in Georgia wood is significantly higher in moisture than in Arizona. The EMC in the first case could be &lt;em&gt;well over double&lt;/em&gt; that in the second, yet in both places paint can perform as it's intended to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I intend to paint every side, which will completely seal it with paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's 'seal', not seal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only a coating that actually provides a good moisture barrier should be thought to seal a surface (and that is with a uniform, relatively thick, application). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Latex&quot; paint (terrible name — doesn't contain latex and never has!) is flexible and &lt;em&gt;highly moisture-permeable&lt;/em&gt;, so actually it's an ideal paint to use if you want to paint wood that's not as dry as you'd wish it to be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's in respect to the wood and allowing it to continue to dry, but all waterbased paints rely on going on to relatively dry surfaces to bond well. This doesn't mean the wood has to be dry through-and-through, but the surface at least should be fairly dry or it will retard the drying of the paint and could significantly compromise bond strength and/or film strength (somewhat similar to painting at temperatures below the low end of the recommended range). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slightly off-topic so I'll tack this on last:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The paint is an exterior latex paint with primer (Behr Exterior Premium Plus Ultra). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be wary of a product that is said to combine the qualities of primer and paint in one. All of them are compromises of one sort or another and I can assure you that in nearly every case that they cannot match the performance of a true primer followed by paint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-03-12T14:49:12.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3622" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3623" CreationDate="2016-03-12T16:53:27.943" Score="7" ViewCount="1570" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on building the legs to an adjustable height desk for my home office. And I have purchased Maple wood for this part of the project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently I was discussing this with a coworker and he suggested that the wood needed to be treated with tung oil, even before I assemble the legs, in order to protect it from expanding and warping over time. Preventing these things is especially important as I am trying to create a tight fit between the upper leg shaft and the lower leg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, do I need to pre-seal the maple wood somehow before I even assemble it? If so, then what is the best method to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, on the outer part of the inner leg (see project link below) it was suggested by the same person that I put a wax or waxy layer on the shaft to ensure smooth leg operation. Would you agree? And if so then what would you recommend for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the project I am working on (though I plan on making it look nicer and adding shelving):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m2dUzm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m2dUzm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;desk&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-Height-Adjustable-Desk/?ALLSTEPS&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1995" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-03-12T17:06:35.080" LastActivityDate="2016-03-12T19:54:25.470" Title="When working with maple, do I need to seal the wood before assembling the furniture?" Tags="|finishing|assembly|tung-oil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3622" CreationDate="2016-03-12T17:15:18.623" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;he suggested that the wood needed to be treated with tung oil, even before I assemble the legs, in order to protect it from expanding and warping over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No finish will keep wood from expanding and contracting over time&lt;/strong&gt;.  It's in wood's nature to do that, and there's nothing you can do to prevent it.  Also, tung oil isn't all that great at sealing moisture to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, what you must do is design the piece of furniture with this limitation in mind.  One of the most critical things is to use wood that has reached its equilibrium moisture content (EMC) with the area the piece of furniture will be kept.  In other words, don't use wood that's wetter than the air where you expect to keep it.  An easy way to do this is to keep the wood in that room for a couple months and let it acclimate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Preventing these things is especially important as I am trying to create a tight fit between the upper leg shaft and the lower leg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm reading the Instructables link right, he uses a linear actuator to raise and lower the desktop.  Thus, having the perfect fit between the inner and outer legs isn't particularly critical so long as they don't bind or have excessive play.  With the dimensions you'd be working with and they way the legs are fastened together, I wouldn't worry about it so long as you make them properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So, do I need to pre-seal the maple wood somehow before I even assemble it? If so, then what is the best method to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say that you don't have to pre-finish before assembly, though that does make things easier down the line sometimes.  For example, if you're &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/topics/39985&quot;&gt;making door panels&lt;/a&gt;, finishing the panels before installing them in the rails and stiles is a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The method for doing this just involves applying the finish to the piece, letting it dry, and then protecting the finish during assembly.  Masking/packaging tape is a good thing to use for spots where glue might squeeze out or you have to stain an adjacent piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also, on the outer part of the inner leg (see project link below) it was suggested by the same person that I put a wax or waxy layer on the shaft to ensure smooth leg operation. Would you agree? And if so then what would you recommend for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paste wax is one of my favorites for things like this.  It gives a decent finish and is pretty inexpensive.  Parrafin wax might be a good choice too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2016-03-12T17:15:18.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3622" CreationDate="2016-03-12T19:54:25.470" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;REDUCING MOVEMENT&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Using finish&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;While you can coat wood with a suitable finish to mitigate the effects of internal moisture changes as humidity goes up and down, for all intents and purposes consider it impossible to prevent it entirely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The finishes that do the best job at reducing the effects are &lt;em&gt;film finishes&lt;/em&gt;, which as their name suggests literally create a film that covers the wood. On a practical level what you get with a reasonable coating of a film finish is a reduction in the maximum and minimum moisture levels of the wood, reducing but not eliminating &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/908/what-general-considerations-do-i-need-to-take-into-account-for-wood-movement/910#910&quot;&gt;seasonal movement&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in general you do always have to design with seasonal movement in mind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I was discussing this with a coworker and he suggested that the wood needed to be treated with tung oil &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tung oil, like all true oil finishes, is actually a very poor 'sealer' for wood. It provides little or no barrier to water vapour in addition to its well-known poor protection from liquid water. Tung oil is a bit of a thorny issue in the finishing world because of misuse of the name, so it's possible your co-worker may have been referring to a product like &quot;tung oil finish&quot; which is something very different indeed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original and most famous Tung Oil Finish contains no tung oil at all! What it is instead is a type of blended finish similar to &quot;Danish oil&quot; and &quot;teak oil&quot;. These are all oil-and-varnish blends, diluted with additional mineral spirits to make them thinner and easier to apply. &lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; you can easily make your own version of something like this, mixing a regular varnish and your oil of choice approximately 50:50, then diluting this as much or as little as you like (most commercial versions are much thinner than they need to be).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wood choice&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;However, you can do something else to help minimise the effects and that is to select the boards carefully from the outset, taking advantage of the fact that wood does not change dimension equally in all directions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ijnQK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Grain direction and movement&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What this means on a practical level is this: if you're using solid wood, choose boards that are quarter-sawn or rift-sawn and they will expand and contract across their width much less than flat-sawn wood of the same species.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the difference is said to be about half but this is just a very rough guidelines, it's more with some species and less with others. A full table showing the relative numbers is given in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3441/what-is-the-maximum-width-for-a-full-cross-grain-glue-up/3533#3533&quot;&gt;this recent Answer&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Not using solid wood&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Another possible option to sidestep the issue is not to use solid wood. Plywood, particleboard or MDF can be used instead in specific circumstances, and these essentially don't experience any seasonal movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So, do I need to pre-seal the maple wood somehow before I even assemble it? If so, then what is the best method to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of the practical finishes you can use to 'seal' the wood the best are shellac, varnish or lacquer. Since lacquers almost always require spray equipment to apply which I presume you don't have you can cut that list down to the first two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also do this very effectively with an epoxy coating, but that's not commonly used on indoor projects and is usually very expensive to boot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're using shellac or varnish you want to apply at least three coats to take advantage of their protection, but 5-7 would not be too many.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also, on the outer part of the inner leg (see project link below) it was suggested by the same person that I put a wax or waxy layer on the shaft to ensure smooth leg operation. Would you agree? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It certainly can't hurt. Wax is widely used in woodworking circles for its excellent slip qualities, used to help reduce friction on saw plates, plane soles, the beds of jointers and table saws, and on drawer runners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;And if so then what would you recommend for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A coat of paste wax, buffed to a shine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you can also make your own version of this if you'd like to, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1476/table-saw-top-treatment/1484#1484&quot;&gt;guide here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-03-12T19:54:25.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3625" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-12T23:19:30.830" Score="6" ViewCount="1053" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hey guys so this might be a stupid question but I am just a beginner, but can I cut wood veneer on a band saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I glued 5 sheets of wood veneer together to make it thicker and stronger, but it alternates in wood grain direction and in veneer type. I used paperback veneer and 2 ply veneer together. I used a vacuum compressor to keep them flat while they dried. Now I need to cut them into smaller pieces, I'm fairly sure it would be fine to use a band saw, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I've made 3 large pieces of veneers but one of them came out a bit warped for some reason, is there a way to flatten it even after it's been glued up and thick?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1239" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-03-14T09:40:31.803" LastActivityDate="2022-09-15T22:18:37.307" Title="Can I cut homemade plywood on a bandsaw?" Tags="|plywood|band-saw|veneer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3625" CreationDate="2016-03-13T00:25:27.350" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A band saw is fine.  I would recommend that you avoid low tooth counts such as 3 tpi (teeth per inch)  and opt for a smaller/denser tooth blade.  Don't get to aggressive, instead feed it through slowly to get a cleaner cut line. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In gluing up veneer always keep things symmetrical front to back (including thicknesses of the layers), alternating directions and always provide an odd count of layers (the paper layer does not count). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately if you have laminated the layers and the result is warped, I believe the warp will be permanent.  How much you can correct the warp will depend on how much it is deformed and how thick it is. You may be able to flatten it a bit if you glue it down to a frame that provides a flat surface.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-03-13T00:25:27.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3627" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-13T13:24:45.140" Score="2" ViewCount="2274" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've a table top from IKEA that's wood instead of the regular IKEA cardboard. Even after oiling it's a bit dull, so I'd like some color. Burn marks to be exact. The kind you get when you quickly sweep a blowtorch over untreated wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I do that anymore? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm ok with re-treating the table afterwards, but I'm concerned about doing damage to the table. I do not want to paint the table, I think painted wood looks horrible. I like the pattern, which is why I bought this table. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-03-14T02:53:11.563" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T09:38:50.607" Title="Can I decorate linseed oil treated wood table with a blowtorch?" Tags="|staining|boiled-linseed-oil|decoration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3616" CreationDate="2016-03-13T19:17:42.707" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What about offset hinges. So the rotation axis when fully closed is in the middle. And when opened to wall will close the gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's still a small gap when in freestanding mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kOZwR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kOZwR.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The connection would only be on top and bottom wrapping around the panels in the middle (or reaching through a notch in those panels).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2016-03-14T09:25:46.593" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T09:25:46.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3627" CreationDate="2016-03-14T09:38:50.607" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can still scorch wood that has been oiled, but the results are likely to be different to when the wood is bare. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with almost all finishing you'd ideally want to do some experimentation before committing to doing this on the job, but that's not easy without a piece of scrap wood to do some testing with. You could perhaps use the underside to try this out but only if it's been similarly treated. And note that the time between oiling and doing the scorching might be critical here, as linseed oil is a &lt;em&gt;drying oil&lt;/em&gt; it changes chemically over time, polymerising due to a reaction with oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Caution:&lt;/strong&gt; if you decide to go ahead, this is probably an unnecessary warning but do yourself a favour and don't attempt to do this indoors. Wood smoke is not a great hazard, but scorching linseed oil could release airborne compounds in the smoke that you don't want to inhale even in limited amounts. Also, linseed oil is quite flammable so the wood could ignite in a way that a big piece of solid wood doesn't generally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't decide it's worth the risk trying the scorching you can still colour the wood, just using a more conventional method. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A coloured varnish (e.g. &quot;gel stain&quot;) can still be applied to oiled wood and the results are controllable and fairly predictable. These sorts of surface coatings are quite transparent, so you will still be able to see the original grain of the wood if you don't go too dark. Some before-and-after pics to illustrate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NHeaA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NHeaA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Gel stain before &amp;amp; after&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T09:38:50.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3625" CreationDate="2016-03-14T09:56:55.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm fairly sure it would be fine to use a band saw, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes it's fine to use a bandsaw for cutting your homemade plywood, just as with commercial plywood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few things you can do to help get the cleanest cuts, regardless of the type of blade fitted. The first is perhaps obvious and that's to have the good face of your material facing upwards during the cut. As bandsaws cut with the blade moving downwards you get the most splintering (also called breakout or chipout) at the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you would ideally like both faces of the material have the cleanest cuts possible, if the required cut allows it orient the &lt;em&gt;bottom ply&lt;/em&gt; so the grain is in line with the axis of the blade. This will mean the blade is ripping and not cross-cutting that piece of veneer, giving much less splintering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1023/why-a-zero-clearance-insert&quot;&gt;zero-clearance insert&lt;/a&gt; can also greatly help in giving a cleaner cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another tip you might like to try is taping along the cut lines. Apply painter's tape or masking tape along the line of the cut and burnish down well. Then you saw through the tape and the plywood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the above tips can be used in concert if you want to take a belt-and-braces approach, which may be particularly useful if you have a low-TPI belt fitted to your bandsaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T09:56:55.523" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3631" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-14T13:27:42.133" Score="5" ViewCount="5018" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9OKZ0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9OKZ0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shopmaster L-500 Lathe&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a Shopmaster L-500 lathe. It has been restored to its original condition, unfortunately it did not include a manual.  This particular lathe has a 4-stepped pulley in the headstock and originally had a 4 step pulley on the motor (though the restored motor has only three.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Researching about pulley drives on lathes, I have heard mention of a &lt;strong&gt;Reeve's Drive&lt;/strong&gt;, but I don't think that this is an actual Reeve's mechanism because there is no facility to push or pull the pulleys to move the belt.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone with an older vintage lathe have any suggestions on how to properly change the speed of the lathe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here's a view of the headstock and the pulleys inside:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vzz5G.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vzz5G.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Headstock pulleys&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;And here's a photo at the motor:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pAd2i.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pAd2i.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Motor pulleys&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2017-03-14T03:16:28.560" Title="How can I change speeds on my old lathe?" Tags="|lathe|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3632" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3637" CreationDate="2016-03-14T13:34:54.000" Score="2" ViewCount="3137" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to be getting some old bookshelves that are likely made from 2x10 pine. I really want to use those for building a workbench top. So I am going to be cutting them up. Since they were previously at my work they have been painted with the times over the years and have ~4 layers of various paints. I have no reason to think they are lead paints but that is pretty easy to test anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/604/can-you-use-painted-wood-in-a-planer-without-damaging-the-tool&quot;&gt;older question&lt;/a&gt; related to this but since I cannot see what's under the wood I worry about the blades, old or otherwise. Also I am curious what my other options are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to removing multiple layers of paint off cheap wood what are my realistic options? Inevitably some will be related to chemically stripping wood and while those are answers, I am looking for something outside of that. I don't really have a place for that nor do I want to deal with the chemicals and their removal (played with them once in the past trying to restore a dresser).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-04-03T02:20:46.120" Title="When it comes to removing multiple layers of paint from a flat surface what are my options?" Tags="|wood|paint|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3632" CreationDate="2016-03-14T13:50:06.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Attacking it with a paint scraper will work, with enough time and effort.. . Take appropriate precautions against possible lead paint, obviously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the newer paint removers are &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; safer than the traditional ones, and can be used indoors. Watch out for drips attacking other things (use appropriate dropcloths!), and keep kids and pets away, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T13:50:06.603" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3632" CreationDate="2016-03-14T15:32:32.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When it comes to removing multiple layers of paint off cheap wood what are my realistic options? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A belt sander with 60 or 80 grit sandpaper will make quick work of it, assuming you're just removing paint on flat surfaces.  You already identified that you will test for lead, so I won't go into that.  (Edit: @Graphus makes a few good points about sanding in his answer)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from that, if you don't want to use chemicals, your only other option is scraping, as @keshlam said.  Using a heat gun (or hair dryer) may soften the paint some and make it easier to scrape.  It's likely that you'll have to sand some paint off after scraping, anyway, since it likes to get into nooks and cracks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have an older question related to this but since I cannot see what's under the wood I worry about the blades, old or otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen other questions of yours where you talk about using recycled wood, so investing in a metal detector might be a good idea for you if you're worried about planing a nail (or other piece of metal).  The question you linked already talks about planing off paint, so I won't go into that either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-03-14T18:41:42.483" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T18:41:42.483" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3631" CreationDate="2016-03-14T16:36:06.937" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My PSI lathe was similar (though a bit smaller) and there was a locking mechanism that I had to loosen so the motor would 'raise' a little releasing the tension on the belt, then I could move the belt to what ever set of pulleys' I wanted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I noticed about yours is that the motor has fewer pulleys' than the head of the lathe.  3 vs. 4.  Most I've seen have 1 - 1 in this kind of configuration.  So as the head wheel gets smaller the motor wheel increases in diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I don't know is if this was designed to be a 4 speed (and the new motor doesn't have enough pulleys') or more like an 8 speed where you can use one or 2 pulleys next to each other, but that seems unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What ever you use to loosen the belt need to make sure when it is tightened it is fairly snug, since that will transfer more power to turn and less likely for the chisel to catch and hold the piece instead of cutting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T16:36:06.937" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3631" CreationDate="2016-03-14T17:08:36.683" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found some sort of &quot;quick start&quot; manual for this lathe &lt;a href=&quot;http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=5646&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. In the parts list there the motor spindle also has 4 steps. It seems likely that the your 3-step spindle is not the original part, so don't be surprised by the belt not lining up for every position. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, while it's not a full manual, it does say (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To place belt on head stock pulley &lt;strong&gt;remove 3 Allen head set screws on bearing plate and remove shaft from Head Stock&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bearing plate is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XI98I.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XI98I.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I imagine this is the procedure you'd to follow to move the belt as well, although I cannot say for certain what other steps may be involved. In particular it does not mention tensioning the belt so you may have to poke around and look for a release mechanism, if there even is one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With your current setup you're limited to 3 speeds unless you can slide the motor spindle around a bit. I would not mount the belt at an angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am certain that guide is for the L-500. &lt;a href=&quot;http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/746/1180.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;According to some catalogs from the 50's&lt;/a&gt; (and &lt;a href=&quot;http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/746/358.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;one from 1953&lt;/a&gt;, with an awesome first page illustration) the L-500 was their only lathe at the time, so that must be the lathe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2016-03-14T19:20:40.333" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T19:20:40.333" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3632" CreationDate="2016-03-14T18:06:06.057" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scraping&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Although I'm a big advocate of scrapers this isn't something I'd personally do by scraping alone unless I had a paint scraper (AKA hook scraper). A thick layer of paint made up of multiple layers built up over time is particularly resistant to a conventional scraping action with less-robust scrapers, as you can get a parting of the ways between subsequent coats. What this means in practice is that you might have to go over a given area multiple times before you're down to bare wood (DAMHIK). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ngb9y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ngb9y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hook-type paint scrapers&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use a dedicated paint scraper such as the ones above instead of wimpier options (e.g. card scraper, shaving hook) you should have better results because they have a very aggressive scraping action. But still it would likely require substantial muscle effort, although the type of paint and just how thick it is are obviously factors here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Heat/flame + scrapers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Although there are safer chemical strippers (note: almost invariably &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; slower than their nastier cousins) the other traditional option for removing a heavy coating of paint was to use a blowtorch, which you can still use, or alternatively a heat gun which is a little safer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oddly this seems to work best on thick paint. Some of that might be a user reaction to how amazingly it softens and releases that much paint, but thicker paint does tend to sort of 'sheet off' where a thin coat tends to cling to the surface more tenaciously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hand planing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A scrub plane/roughing plane (or a jack with a good camber on the iron) can be a great way to get off a very thick coating of paint, just as it's a great way to remove a shaggy or heavily weathered surface from wood. Working diagonally over the wood this requires surprisingly little effort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's perhaps too aggressive for the handtool-only guy who would then have to flatten off entirely by hand, but with a planer to smooth the wood afterwards it's worth considering this approach for its speed and effectiveness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't do this level of paint removal by sanding pretty much ever, there are just too many downsides. Cost of the belts is an obvious one, as is the mess (even with dust extraction the amount of dust released can be pretty bad). The potential to 'dub over' the wood or is also very high. Worst though is the potential toxicity of the paint dust not captured by any dust extraction and it's not just lead paint that we have to wary of — &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; paints and other finishes should be considered harmful when converted to a fine dust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-03-27T17:36:59.483" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T17:36:59.483" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3632" CreationDate="2016-03-14T19:10:52.973" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might be able to find a commercial paint stripping service in your area. They can safely use aggressive processes to remove the paint. They might even be able to pressure-treat the timber afterwards too, if termites or mould are a concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be worth checking the price, especially if you have other painted items that could do with stripping, such as doors, at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T19:10:52.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3639" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3640" CreationDate="2016-03-14T19:32:33.673" Score="11" ViewCount="7758" Body="&lt;p&gt;When looking through a &lt;a href=&quot;http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/746/358.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;tool catalog from the 1950s&lt;/a&gt; I noticed that Shopmaster sold a sanding disc for their table saw. I looked around online and found discs that fit my saw still available, e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000P4LRMG&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; is a balance blade that you can also stick sandpaper to, and there are many others:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xhMqA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xhMqA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had no idea this was a thing. Can I reliably use my table saw as a disc sander? The RPMs seem higher than a typical disc sander, and also would I run a risk of burning out the motor if I ran it too long? I mean, I know the table saw motor is pretty heavy duty, but it doesn't seem like it was designed to run in the same manner that a disc sander motor runs (long periods of time, low or no load).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've always wanted a disc sander - I have no stationary power sanding tools right now - but don't have the space for one. What am I risking by using the table saw with a sanding disc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2016-03-15T17:31:20.050" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T18:20:44.723" Title="Can I really use my table saw as a disc sander?" Tags="|table-saw|power-tools|sanding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3639" CreationDate="2016-03-14T20:25:31.843" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;would I run a risk of burning out the motor if I ran it too long?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to running the saw for a while, that shouldn't be a problem if it has adequate ventilation.  Electric motors run best when run continuously (minimize start/stop).  Using it for sanding will probably be a much lower load than ripping wood stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What am I risking by using the table saw with a sanding disc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only issue I can see is that you have to press the work against the sanding disk, which would cause bending in the table saw arbor.  Though table saw motors are pretty hefty, I don't really know if this would be an issue or not.  If you made a sanding disc out of a more flexible material (say, 3/4&quot; plywood), it probably won't be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: YouTube to the rescue again.  Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XmfThrbX1NI&quot;&gt;video showing this technique&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the day, I'd rather ruin a (relatively) cheap dedicated disc sander than an expensive table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;@bowlturner I thought you might go with suggestion to use a lather as a disc sander&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Off topic, but this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A0ww-f9ZsPE&quot;&gt;works quite well&lt;/a&gt;, actually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T20:25:31.843" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3641" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3642" CreationDate="2016-03-14T22:37:50.930" Score="7" ViewCount="4343" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to give a turned bowl to someone as a gift, but I know they will inevitably use these bowls in the microwave.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my own experience of force-drying wood in the microwave, I know it can get hot to the touch after about 30 seconds, depending on moisture level. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any finish solutions for making &quot;microwave-safe&quot; wood items for serving food on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1518" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T14:53:13.550" Title="What finish should I use to make a bowl &quot;microwave-safe&quot;?" Tags="|finishing|bowl|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3641" CreationDate="2016-03-14T23:38:18.813" Score="15" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are there any finish solutions for making &quot;microwave-safe&quot; wood items for serving food on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not so much a question of &quot;microwave-safe&quot; finishes as &quot;microwave-safe&quot; materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microwave_oven&quot;&gt;Microwaves work&lt;/a&gt; by exciting water molecules, thereby increasing their energy (i.e., heating them up).  The reason your wooden bowl gets hot is because of the water trapped in the wood fibers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would strongly advise against microwaving a finished wood bowl for not only the risk of burning one's self on it, but also because the rapid heating of the water in the bowl can cause it to crack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I want to give a turned bowl to someone as a gift, but I know they will inevitably use these bowls in the microwave.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very clearly &lt;strong&gt;tell the intended recipient that wooden bowls are not microwave safe&lt;/strong&gt;.  If someone uses the bowl improperly and it breaks, yes, that sucks for them, but you're not at fault having told them.  Common sense has to factor into things &lt;em&gt;sometimes&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, not only would I tell them to not microwave the bowl, but don't soak it in water, and don't put it through the dishwasher either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-03-15T13:33:26.170" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T13:33:26.170" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3639" CreationDate="2016-03-15T05:08:25.733" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have one that came with my table saw (a 1980's Masport). It's a combo table saw, sander and jointer. Masses of steel means is heavy as crap and a nice powerful motor make this my favourite table saw ever:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ARXQF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ARXQF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ARXQF.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The disk sander attaches directly over the blade (blade stays in place) and takes only a few seconds to put on/take off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both the saw and disc and joiner are all belt driven, but as the disc sander runs directly off the saw arbor it's running at exactly the same speed as the saw. I've never noticed any issues speed wise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pressure wise, the disc is held in place by it's metal shell - this will drive any horizontal force back into the the tabletop instead of allowing it to put any pressure on the arbor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had no issues running it for long periods of time, and would suspect it's probably better for the engine than cutting thick wood - there would be far less load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bonus is that the DC set up for the table saw automatically works great for the disc sander!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="282" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T18:20:44.723" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T18:20:44.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3641" CreationDate="2016-03-15T07:39:56.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While you can often get away with wood in a microwave you shouldn't. Or if you do, mass-produced cheap things but not something presumably valued. Similarly for the dishwasher - I put some wooden things in there but nothing that couldn't be replaced cheaply and easily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But to be honest, finished wood and hot wet foods don't mix well, so using it in the microwave would be rather pointless (except I suppose for warming bread). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Varnishes tend to crack or peel while oils (even food safe ones) can give a taste to the food. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-04-04T14:53:13.550" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T14:53:13.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3641" CreationDate="2016-03-15T09:04:36.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would seriously suggest you just get them a glass or plastic bowl if you want to gift them one you know they'll want to use in a microwave :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regular microwaving is not a good environment for wood since it'll heat it and drive out moisture. Up to a point this doesn't do any harm as you'll have some idea about from your force-drying experience, but if you've ever overdone the microwaving as I have (causing the water in the wood to boil) you'll know there are some issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First thing I'll mention is the one that will be most immediately apparent: &lt;strong&gt;the smell&lt;/strong&gt;. If they do overheat the bowl even just once and it boils the intrinsic water they'll create &lt;em&gt;wood steam&lt;/em&gt; and the smell of this is not exactly conducive to fine dining (think paper mill and you'll have some idea)! Worst still, that odour will linger in the microwave for &lt;em&gt;months&lt;/em&gt;. Trust me that's no exaggeration, I speak from experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of the safety of the bowl, past a certain level and the wood will end up way dryer than is natural. With repeat use the moisture level will cycle up and down excessively (most especially if they wash it). I think you could bet money on this leading to &lt;strong&gt;warping or cracking&lt;/strong&gt;, even if the wood used in the turning was straight-grained and clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More seriously given enough microwave exposure there's even a risk of &lt;strong&gt;fire&lt;/strong&gt;. If the wood happened to be very dry already, from being microwaved recently and/or because of local conditions, and it was then microwaved for a good amount of time you could get localised scorching. And once the wood is charred it's just a small step to ignition (same basic principle as &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Char_cloth&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;char cloth&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T09:04:36.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3639" CreationDate="2016-03-15T10:13:23.370" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I had no idea this was a thing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither did I until I read about it in an older publication.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason it's seen less today I presume is due to the lower cost of dedicated machines, similar to the disappearance of profiling bits for drills once routers became cheap enough that the average home woodworker could afford them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can I reliably use my table saw as a disc sander? The RPMs seem higher than a typical disc sander, and also would I run a risk of burning out the motor if I ran it too long? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given people have used power drills to run sanding disks and sanding drums quite effectively (going back quite a ways too, with much less powerful motors than we see today), and those motors are not intended for extended continuous operation, it seems likely burning out the motor is not an issue even theoretically if using a table saw for the same purpose. And on a practical level this was a common mod to do to table saws some years ago, as tips in woodworking books and some magazine articles testify to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I doubt there's any reason to worry about burning out the motor, but there is a risk of burning the wood, especially once the paper wears down (not even enough that you'd look at it and say to yourself &quot;That needs changing.&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notwithstanding any reassurances as a table saw is a major piece of equipment that you might not want to take a risk with, consider making up a drill-powered sanding station instead:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Eq12z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Eq12z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Drill-powered disk sanders&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some links:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thinkwoodworks.net/drill-powered-disc-sander/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Drill-Powered Disc Sander&lt;/a&gt; on Think Woodworks (Izzy Swan).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;YouTube vids: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ncrl1r0OH68&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;first&lt;/a&gt; (in Spanish), &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r35qHmSikeQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;second&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjgMahvNiVg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;third&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T10:13:23.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3641" CreationDate="2016-03-15T14:10:47.363" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can make a wood bowl microwave safe: put it in a Faraday cage.  This means you coat the entire surface with metal, with holes less than the max of 1.2 cm or the distance between the holes and the wood: consumer microwaves use &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microwave_oven&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;12 cm&lt;/a&gt; wavelength, and apparently gaps of 10% of the wavelength are pretty opaque to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Such a continuous conductor will shield the wood against the microwave radio waves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It won't be much of a wood bowl anymore, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At that point, your problem is reduced to protecting the bowl from the heat of the food.  Also, the bowl will now block microwaves, which means heating will only occur from the &quot;top down&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2011" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T14:10:47.363" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3648" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3653" CreationDate="2016-03-15T14:47:25.543" Score="7" ViewCount="1167" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00064NGRE&quot;&gt;Jet 1642 EVS&lt;/a&gt;.  One of the nice features that I bought it for is offbed turning, the head stock moves and I can turn bowls and platters greater than the 16&quot; diameter bed limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I paid a lot of money for this tool and the few times I've looked I have not been able to find a weight limit for the size/mass of a bowl blank I can mount on it without damaging it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a large hunk of ash, it was from a tree ~32 in diameter.  Split in half and rounded with a chain saw (haven't done this part yet) I estimate the blank will still be ~100 lbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is a lot of weight.  So before I cost myself $500 in lathe repairs (which could buy some nice NEW tools) Can anyone tell me or find what a reasonable weight limit is for outboard turning of large bowls?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T16:03:41.720" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T16:03:41.720" Title="How heavy a piece of wood can my lathe handle?" Tags="|power-tools|turning|lathe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3648" CreationDate="2016-03-15T15:22:57.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I'm looking at the right model's manual, the speed recommendations only go up to 16&quot; diameter, which might say something.... No, that's just the swing-over-bed limit; if you're turning outboard with aux tool rest I don't see anything stated for size or weight. Maybe that tool rest came with some hints?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could create the moral equivalent of a steady-rest with inline skate wheels to  carry the weight.. Though that only works after it's rounded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that increased radius increases circumference and linear cutting speed. You may need to crank it 'way down when cutting near the outside edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... Let us know when you've found out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2016-03-18T17:29:36.173" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T17:29:36.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3632" CreationDate="2016-03-15T17:40:21.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A carbide scraper is the best mechanical method. Organic paint removers are ok, methylene chloride based strippers are best but very harsh. last but not least are powered sanders and angle grinders with a 60 grit or higher TrimKut, sand blasting (not for wood ). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="785" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T17:40:21.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3641" CreationDate="2016-03-15T17:42:41.857" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When creating wood products that will be used with food. Either dry, wet or microwaved the guidelines are generally the same for all the above. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The microwave doesn't change anything. The wood item will simply wear out quicker if it is microwaved. The point here is to keep it non-toxic and food safe. Microwaved, dishwasher or washed in the sink. You don't want to leach any poisons into the food as a result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I make butcher blocks. They are easy to make and people love them as gifts. Here's what I follow as guidelines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select a hard wood to ensure durability and reduce the pick up of moisture that can lead to growth of mold.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use non-toxic wood, and yes there are hardwoods that contain poisons. I recommend cherry, maple, oak and chestnut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use food grade wood glue. You can buy non-toxic wood glue at most hardware stores now.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The only natural non-toxic finish I know of is bees wax. It seals and provides a semi-gloss finish.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While bees wax is the most recommended. I've not liked the results. What I use is butcher block finishing oil. It's non-toxic and food safe.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of my blocks are over 5 years old and still safe to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1734" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T17:42:41.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3648" CreationDate="2016-03-15T19:44:19.477" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;That was fast.  I broke down and called Jet tech support.  The information was not in any of their product information and the support person needed to ask Development.  I mentioned that the piece I was wanted to use was between 100-150 lbs. Development said that lathe could handle 200 lbs. easily, he didn't even have to look it up.  So 200 lbs. is well within the range of the lathe.  So while I don't know what the upper limit actually is, I do know it is much larger than I am currently planning on using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T19:44:19.477" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3654" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3655" CreationDate="2016-03-16T03:30:01.713" Score="4" ViewCount="1937" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have purchased &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/store/index.php?app=ccp0&amp;amp;ns=prodshow&amp;amp;ref=19_W3153&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; plan to make a friend's child a rocking horse chair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j5ayc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j5ayc.png&quot; alt=&quot;chair&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The photo appears to show the project made from pine.  Although I do like the appearance in the photo, I'm worried that pine is too soft for this type of project.  In your experience does pine hold up well for something like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1502" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-03-16T15:16:50.100" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T15:16:50.100" Title="Choosing wood type for child's rocking horse chair" Tags="|wood-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3654" CreationDate="2016-03-16T13:30:33.263" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The photo appears to show the project made from pine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say you're correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm worried that pine is too soft for this type of project. In your experience does pine hold up well for something like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While pine is soft, it's pretty well suited for projects that infants/toddlers use.  These types of projects will see a lot of abuse just because they're used by little humans who have no concept of their own strength or of the value of things and have little spatial awareness.  If they bash it around, no big deal, it's just pine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use 2x pine stock, it should hold up just fine.  You might have to make a few running repairs occasionally, but that would be expected in just about any toy made for a small child, regardless of the material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if your friend has wood floors (usually a hardwood like oak), pine won't scratch them as easily since it's much softer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T13:30:33.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3654" CreationDate="2016-03-16T14:06:08.493" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pine is fine.  As a piece of furniture for a young child, it will actually not get too much wear and tear.  Pine will show wear from dents and scratches more often, but in general should endure for years.  We have a pine dresser that was used by our children for decades and has held up pretty well. The wood has never split or splintered. Any surface imperfections accrued over the years seem to add to its dignity. On the other hand, such a fine design as this will easily become a family heirloom and a combination of attractive hardwoods might enhance its appearance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two suggestions to consider: First, the rockers and tail extend out without any support. Match the wood grain direction shown in the photo and keep the boards as wide/thick as possible to reduce the chance they could be snapped off. Second, if you do choose a hardwood check its toxicity online. Although most woods are safe they can be minor irritants for very sensitive people and some may have other risks.  Also choose your finish carefully, little teeth may taste it. Look for a food safe finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T14:06:08.493" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3658" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3660" CreationDate="2016-03-16T15:18:39.013" Score="11" ViewCount="59867" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes when I apply polyurethane, for whatever reason, it's not completely smooth. Maybe a brush mark here and there, or a couple little nibs, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advice I see often is to sand the area lightly with a high grit sand paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I do this, even when I sand &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; lightly, like one low pressure pass with 400 or 600 or even 1000, the texture comes out nice and smooth but the polyurethane is always scuffed with little white marks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I avoid or remove the scuffing? How do I actually smooth nibs and other small irregularities out of polyurethane? The frequent advice to sand lightly is either incorrect, incomplete, or I'm missing something. I have never had success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also does the technique vary for gloss vs matte/satin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2016-03-16T16:33:51.703" LastActivityDate="2022-03-02T13:54:44.863" Title="How do I de-nib polyurethane after it dries but still maintain its finish?" Tags="|finishing|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3658" CreationDate="2016-03-16T15:41:32.317" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I do this, even when I sand very lightly, like one low pressure pass with 400 or 600 or even 1000, the texture comes out nice and smooth but the polyurethane is always scuffed with little white marks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From memory, the directions I always see on cans of poly is to sand &lt;em&gt;between&lt;/em&gt; coats, not to sand after a final coat.  After sanding (fine grit sandpaper or 0000 steel wool), wipe off the dust with a rag soaked in mineral spirits, then apply the final coat in a dust-free environment so that you don't get any more nibs in the finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Polishing_Polyurethane_to_a_High_Gloss.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This website&lt;/a&gt; suggests the following technique to polish a gloss polyurethane finish:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should use an automotive polishing compound and a buffer for big areas. Small areas will have to be polished by hand unless you have some funky buffing tools. Make sure the poly has cured for a minimum of 4-5 days at 70f. Do not try to polish an uncured film. Start gently, sand all the imperfections (wet 1000g) and then clean the surface well. Use a fine cut cleaner by McGuire's or 3M and follow the instructions on the bottle. Clean all residue when done with a damp cloth. Repeat the polish process with a swirl mark remover. Again, clean all residue with a damp cloth and buff clean with a cotton cloth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apply a final polish of your choice. This should give you a table that is like a mirror. Also, try this out on a test panel first to make sure you like the result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also does the technique vary for gloss vs matte/satin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think you would want to polish a matte/satin finish since it would defeat the purpose to have it shiny.  Also, matte/satin are much more forgiving in terms of surface imperfections, so that polishing regimen I pasted above would be overkill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T15:53:15.133" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3658" CreationDate="2016-03-16T16:00:22.620" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How do I avoid or remove the scuffing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically you can't. Until you get to really high grits (way above P1200) you &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; see the scratches and these are not suitable for de-nibbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How do I smooth polyurethane after it dries but still maintain its finish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general you don't &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; sand, you then polish the surface. Wet-sanding will reduce the scratch pattern somewhat as well, compared to sanding at the same grit dry, but the main 'secret' is that you then use some polishing agents to buff/polish the surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Traditionally the polishing of a dry finish was done with something like &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rotten_stone&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rottenstone&lt;/a&gt;. This is still in use today by some, particularly traditionalists, some high-end woodworkers and professional finishers/restorers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can in theory do this entirely with abrasive paper or film, but you have to go to extremely high grits and these can be quite costly. While that is how some do it it's really not necessary, today I think most people use something like an automotive finish polish e.g. Simichrome, Flitz or T-Cut to rub out the finish to its final high gloss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How do I actually sand a nib out of polyurethane? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use the abrasives you're already using, but another tip you might like to try is to use the rough side of brown paper. This is just abrasive enough to take most nibs off without the risk of rubbing through the finish. It will leave the surface visibly less glossy, although if you buff hard you can get some polish back (essentially giving you something like a satin or semi-gloss finish with care).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ideal situation might be considered to be where you don't need to sand any nibs or imperfections, and if you set up a dedicated finish room or zone where fluff or dust are kept to a minimum that's theoretically possible. But in practice this is something you will have to deal with sometimes so it's good to have a process ready to tackle it when it does occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; wiping on varnish can nearly eliminate problems with dust nibs (also brush marks, runs and drips). The downside is that because you're applying the varnish so much more thinly build is much slower and it can take many more coats (7+) to get to a fully-built finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also does the technique vary for gloss vs matte/satin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're not supposed to work over the surface of reduced-sheen varnishes, anything from matt to satin or semi-gloss should ideally be applied and left alone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the pro or high-end level the goal with these is to get a smooth build using gloss and then apply one coat, two at the outside, of the reduced-sheen varnish as a final coat. Obviously you take great pains to try to ensure you don't have any dust in the environment before the final coat goes on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better way to achieve a sheen below fully glossy is to scuff the surface of gloss varnish. You can easily get anything from a subtle satin to full matt depending on the coarseness of the abrasive used (powdered pumice, fine grades of steel or bronze wool, Scotch-Brite or an equivalent).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-03-18T07:31:15.307" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T07:31:15.307" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3658" CreationDate="2016-03-16T16:32:25.913" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before you try anything else, try &quot;sanding&quot; the surface with a piece of a brown paper bag. That is just abrasive enough to remove dust and smooth the surface without removing any significant amount of varnish, and is a lot easier than rottenstone or other more traditional polishes. Like any polishing/buffing process it will tend to eliminate tiny irregularities and make the surface shinier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2016-03-16T18:16:44.923" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T18:16:44.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3662" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-16T18:42:15.890" Score="4" ViewCount="2305" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to know which kind of piping to use for my dust collector system, before I buy anything now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2018" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-03-16T21:06:12.540" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T23:43:55.427" Title="What can you use instead of PVC pipe for your dust collector?" Tags="|dust-collection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3662" CreationDate="2016-03-16T18:56:30.567" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many different kinds and searching for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;keywords=dust%20collection%204%20hose&amp;amp;tag=googhydr-20&amp;amp;index=tools&amp;amp;hvadid=28319093841&amp;amp;hvpos=1t3&amp;amp;hvexid=&amp;amp;hvnetw=g&amp;amp;hvrand=10718696249869563120&amp;amp;hvpone=&amp;amp;hvptwo=&amp;amp;hvqmt=b&amp;amp;hvdev=c&amp;amp;ref=pd_sl_24hzbe6fjm_b&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dust collection hose&lt;/a&gt; at amazon gives a whole list of stuff.  However I personally have these two in my shop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E5U77m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E5U77m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hose #1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00013UTLQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LKF7Jm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LKF7Jm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hose #2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0000223Y0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is fairly rigid hose and comes in specific pre-cut lengths.  I think 8' or 10'.  It takes a lot to collapse it and is decent for running along the walls and ceiling.  However, if you have a large shop you need a lot of connectors to get from one side to the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second one is cheaper and comes in 50' rolls in a much smaller box, since it can collapse lengthwise.  You run this as far as you need then cut it off.  It is very useful for tools that move around or just needing to move a hose, say as a vacuum cleaner.  It is cheaper and it can tear when cold and brittle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hose is much more forgiving than PVC pipe and easier to install because you don't need to run it perfectly straight or put in lots of angles (more angles are bad in dust runs, adds friction and reduces throughput).  But it also needs support and can sag, adding it's own forms of friction.  It is however, much easier to install and later move to new places should your shop configuration change or even when adding new branches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the black hose, but there is also translucent available as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-03-16T20:31:47.827" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T20:31:47.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3664" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-16T20:31:13.750" Score="2" ViewCount="1055" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read a good response here on conditioning and staining with blotchy woods.  I have a stubborn pine that I stained twice.  The blotchy side was embarrassing.  I completely forgot to use my conditioner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've gone over it with both moderate to light sanding using 200 and 300 grit papers.  Some areas show the original pine while others still have a light layer of stain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using a water base stain and plan on going for another darker color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible at this point to condition then stain before applying the final?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2020" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-03-16T21:29:46.893" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T21:29:46.893" Title="Pre-stain Conditioner After Sanding" Tags="|finishing|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3664" CreationDate="2016-03-16T21:05:37.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've gone over it with both moderate to light sanding using 200 and 300 grit papers. Some areas show the original pine while others still have a light layer of stain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible at this point to condition then stain before applying the final?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The point of the conditioner is to seal the grain &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; you stain.  I suspect that the areas with stain remaining soaked up more of the stain originally, hence becoming blotchy.  If you already have stain in the &amp;quot;low&amp;quot; points of the wood grain, using the conditioner afterwards isn't going to help reduce blotchiness all that much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advise is to sand back to bare wood (no stain visible anywhere), apply the conditioner, and re-stain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T21:05:37.757" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3641" CreationDate="2016-03-16T21:12:47.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have stained my cutting boards and place hot pizza pans on them with no effect.  However they still will warp with constant water left on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest you have two options.  Rubbing mineral spirits or butchers block oil and finish with cheesecloth or tack cloth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When in doubt test on the wood in question.  Stain a scrap of wood then buy a cheap heat gun.  Use the heat gun for a prolonged amount of time to see its affects.  This will prevent any damages to actual equipment tests.  It will also assure you of your friends sanity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On food contacted stains I like it to rest for a month if not weeks to make sure the stain completely soaks in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also make sure to take a plain cloth and wipe any access stain buildup.  You usually do this after 24 hours of curing..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2020" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T21:12:47.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3566" CreationDate="2016-03-16T22:15:06.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a simple answer but expensive.  Dremel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This tool is specifically designed for reconditioning all tools.  It even sharpens chainsaws should you need it.  It is a delicate multitool for lots of applications including (but not limited to) engraving.  This option may cost more than a wiring brush, but if you are into investing into tools it is worth the workbench it sits on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are cheaper such power tools that you can inquire about at a local DIY for a lower price.  They deal only with cleaning tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final option I would suggest is getting a wire brush for a power drill.  I've used this to clean rust off of metal.  It's fast and fairly easy if done right.  Attach the piece to a work surface then use the wire brush bit to clean everything.  The more build up you have the more it may take.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2020" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T22:15:06.933" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3662" CreationDate="2016-03-16T23:43:55.427" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my system I used 4&quot; diameter sheet metal flues for all of the runs with corrugated flexible tubing from the machine to the metal flues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It's light weight and easy to hang.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Readily accommodates blast gates.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No questions about static build up (readily grounded if the elbows and t's are also metal).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I used (now get this) duct tape to seal all of the components.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Negligible loss of sucking power since the surfaces (except for the corrugated tubing) are smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The system has treated me well for the past eight years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T23:43:55.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1423" CreationDate="2016-03-17T14:01:21.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In 1953, Shopmaster sold the model &lt;code&gt;J.S. 3000&lt;/code&gt; Jig Saw which is what today, most of us would call a scroll saw. This could be converted into a Saber Saw by removing the arm that holds the top blade guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also sold the model &lt;code&gt;SS-700&lt;/code&gt; Saber Saw, which is essentially a scroll saw without the top blade guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See pages 14 &amp;amp; 15 of &lt;a href=&quot;http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/746/358.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;their catalog from that year&lt;/a&gt; &lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;courteously hosted by Vintage Machinery&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T14:01:21.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3670" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3674" CreationDate="2016-03-17T16:19:14.353" Score="6" ViewCount="4221" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a chisel set and drill bits that have never been sharpened after purchased and I want to purchase sharpening equipment, but I'm confused by the variety of options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I've found 3 possible types of sharpeners:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.busybeetools.com/products/bench-grinder-10in-1hp-1725rpm-110v.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bench grinder&lt;/a&gt; is what I thought was the standard sharpening tool.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.ca/EZE-LAP-CCKSF-Chisel-2-Inch-Diamond/dp/B002RL84JY/ref=sr_1_14?s=hi&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1458230901&amp;amp;sr=1-14&amp;amp;keywords=chisel%20sharpening&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sharpening stone&lt;/a&gt; with a chisel guide.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.busybeetools.com/products/sharpening-system-worksharp-3000.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sharpening machine&lt;/a&gt; that I haven't seen before.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My dad does a lot of metal work and always used a bench grinder to sharpen drill bits and other tools, but that's metal not wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assumed it was going to be the same for chisels and now I'm not so sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1734" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T12:36:23.267" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T12:36:23.267" Title="Bench grinder, tool sharpener or sharpening stone?" Tags="|sharpening|drill-bits|chisel|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3670" CreationDate="2016-03-17T16:42:29.097" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It all depends.  I use my bench grinder to sharpen some of my wood-turning chisels and I use a stone for others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to be aware of with a bench grinder is for flat chisels it will leave a concave 'hole' in the face, since you are using a round object, the bigger the wheel the smaller the concavity.  Large sharpening stones on farms were big enough not to matter much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had a sharpening machine on my wish list for years, in theory it is ideal for sharpening flat blades like chisels and planer blades, though I've heard mixed reviews on how good they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some will depend on the quality of edge you are looking for.  Planes for rough planing just need a decent edge.  Planes for finishing work, should likely be done or at least finished with hand techniques, such as stone and strap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use the grinder on my rounded turning chisels, one it's fast, and I'll need to do it a couple times for a decent sized bowl, taking 5 minutes (or more) to do it 'right' and have a super edge will only save me a couple more minutes before I need to sharpen it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the point I'm trying to make is that the quality of the edge you are looking for will greatly determine the tools you will need to get you there.  Mechanical tools are faster and get you close much faster, but few can give a super edge.  And in all things practice makes a huge difference for any tool.  You can dull a blade with a stone with poor technique just like anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drill bits?  I've never had any trouble when sharpening them with a bench grinder.  Though one last thought, for sharpening on the grinder, you want a fairly fine stone or you might still have to use a flat stone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T16:42:29.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3672" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3686" CreationDate="2016-03-17T16:59:46.230" Score="20" ViewCount="6633" Body="&lt;p&gt;I keep coming across various YouTube videos of experts making dovetail joinery by hand, and they get tolerances of the 1/16&quot; of an inch or less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I don't understand is how they get such accuracy in the templates of each piece of wood. After cutting the dovetails they fit together perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a dovetail jig for my router and my machined results don't fit as nicely as the experts done by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question isn't how to make dovetails, but how do you ensure the best fit when making them by hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1734" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-03-18T10:33:58.290" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T06:46:58.590" Title="How do experts make dovetails by hand that fit so well?" Tags="|joinery|dovetail|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3673" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3675" CreationDate="2016-03-17T17:05:41.910" Score="10" ViewCount="30451" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried in the past to make precision cuts using a hand saw and always have issues with the blade sticking or hopping out of the cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All my saws have been purchased from the local big box store. So I have no idea if it's a blade quality issue or user error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I watch videos of experts using their hand tools. They appear to cut wood like butter (even hardwoods). I never see the blade jam, stick or hop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, I do not force the saw or try to cut too fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the problem my technique, the type of saw or poor quality saw blade?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that's a wide question, but I don't know where to start looking to fix the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1734" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-03-17T20:23:00.237" LastActivityDate="2023-09-20T00:48:36.667" Title="How to prevent sticking and hopping when cutting with a hand saw?" Tags="|technique|traditional-techniques|hand-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3670" CreationDate="2016-03-17T17:10:22.870" Score="10" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;bench grinder is what I thought was the standard sharpening tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bench grinder is considered a coarse tool when it comes to sharpening fine woodworking implements.  The only time you should need to use a bench grinder on a chisel is to re-establish a chisel edge that has been badly mangled or chipped from misuse.  A factory-ground chisel should not need any dressing on a bench grinder at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: it is standard practice to sharpen &lt;em&gt;lathe&lt;/em&gt; chisels/gouges with only the bench grinder.  This is a practice that I follow, and it works great for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;sharpening stone with a chisel guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will be your standard method to sharpen and resharpen dull chisels.  You'll most likely want a medium and a fine grit stone for sharpening chisels.  There are entire &lt;em&gt;books&lt;/em&gt; written on sharpening chisels, so I won't go into that here (we also have another &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1/how-do-i-sharpen-a-chisel-plane-blade?rq=1&quot;&gt;question about how to sharpen&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also want to pick up or make a leather strop for your sharpening tasks.  @Graphus has a &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/2087/878&quot;&gt;great answer&lt;/a&gt; about strops that you might have a look at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;sharpening machine that I haven't seen before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The machine you linked is a WorkSharp, which is useful for sharpening chisels and blades if you don't want to go the stone route.  I don't find that it works any better or worse than stones - it's just a different method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My dad does a lot of metal work and always used a bench grinder to sharpen drill bits and other tools, but that's metal not wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want your woodworking tools to be as sharp as humanly possible.  I'm talking hair-splitting sharp.  You only get to that point after stropping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Metalworking tools don't have this requirement (for the most part), so just using a bench grinder is ok for those tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T17:10:22.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3673" CreationDate="2016-03-17T17:29:44.623" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have tried in the past to make precision cuts using a hand saw and always have issues with the blade sticking or hopping out of the cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If by sticking you mean that the friction between the blade and the wood is very high, that could be one of a few problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The wood you are sawing is closing the kerf and pinching the blade, &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your cut isn't straight,&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The set of the saw teeth is not large enough, so the kerf created by the blade isn't wide enough to allow the saw room to pass without undue friction, or&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your saw teeth are too fine for the wood you're sawing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the first, you can try to hold the two sides of the cut apart with your off-hand and see if the saw goes easier.  Or, you can stick a little wedge at the top of the cut to keep the kerf open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the second, cut straighter!  (Note: the cut can wander if the set of your teeth is uneven, regardless if you're sawing correctly)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the third, ideally you'd use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32956&amp;amp;cat=1,43072,43086&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;saw set&lt;/a&gt; (pictured below) to increase the set of the saw's teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tvnLt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tvnLt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;saw set&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you bought the saw new at a big box store, there's a high likelihood that it has induction-hardened teeth.  These don't bend very well, and will likely snap off if you try it.  I can't find a good image of these these of teeth, but they have a slight bluing from the temperature change in the metal.  In this case, you might be out of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, for the fourth, you might need to use a saw with coarser or finer teeth.  Generally, if the blade is sticking in the kerf, you need a coarser saw.  If it's hopping out, you might need a finer blade.  Greener wood needs coarser teeth than dried wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other things to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A dull blade will want to jump out of the cut.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rip teeth blades sometimes have trouble staying in the start of a cut just due to their tooth geometry.  In these cases, I like to start the cut with a crosscut saw to get the kerf established and finish with the rip saw.  The link below the image has probably more information that you ever need to know on saw tooth geometry.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zjyca.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zjyca.gif&quot; alt=&quot;teeth&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://blackburntools.com/articles/saw-tooth-geometry/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-03-17T19:50:22.907" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T19:50:22.907" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3672" CreationDate="2016-03-17T18:23:51.007" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I first started woodworking I went out and got a router jig too. It seemed a lot easier than hand tools (of which I lacked good quality ones). Like you I was never really satisfied with machined results. More recently, with more time to pursue my hobby, I decided to bite the bullet and learn the traditional hand tool way.  My first attempts were disastrous! So I bit the bullet (wood plug!) and bought  a good dovetail saw, marking knife and marking gauge. Then I watched a lot of videos while I practiced more.  Each attempt improved my overall performance although I am still capable of flubbing a joint in a heartbeat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me, the interesting thing about watching the videos is there is a lot of variation in techniques.  I have dutifully tried many of them and find the nuances that work best for me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another important lesson was that, unlike with a router jig, there is no template.  Each tail and pin match is individually marked, cut and cleaned to meet its mate. Notice that the craftsmen in the videos cut the tails, line them up with the pin board and then mark the pins with a knife individually.  BTW the tolerances they work to are closer to thousandths than 1/16&quot;, a match which I can occasionally meet. (Practice helps!).  Also notice that they cut on the waste side of the line and then sneak up on a perfect fit using very sharp chisels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, my joints have a great deal of room for improvement (pronounced tolerances and consistency).  To achieve personal dovetail nirvana I have one more important tool to obtain, a good workbench (I&quot;m working on it now).  Holding the materials well, at the right height and with great lighting will obviously lead me to perfection...that and some more practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that's it in a walnut shell.  Did I mention practice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T18:23:51.007" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3677" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3679" CreationDate="2016-03-17T18:27:28.677" Score="5" ViewCount="1558" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question might be stretching the scope of this SE, but it's woodworking-related so I'll go with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll be purchasing a home sometime soon and will finally have a garage space all to myself for woodworking (cue celebratory dancing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Previous shops (owned by my father) used some combination of incandescent or fluorescent bulbs for lighting, along with natural light coming from the windows.  As far as I could tell, the color rendition was fine, or at least acceptable with these options, and they gave enough light to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the LED options I've seen include more lightbulb-size lights, light tubes along the lines of fluorescents,  and wall strips.  Color warmths vary.  I've only used LEDs for smaller lighting fixtures in the home (60 watt equivalent fixtures).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do LED lights compare to incandescent and fluorescent lights in the home workshop?  Assume the workshop isn't heated, if that makes a difference.  Also, there will only be a couple windows (assume I'll keep the garage door closed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-03-19T07:53:23.380" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T13:26:32.857" Title="LED Lights for the Woodworking Workshop" Tags="|safety|shop|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3677" CreationDate="2016-03-17T18:47:03.530" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the many decades when incandescent was primary option for interior lighting, there was really only one color option - incandescent. Generally that fell into the &lt;em&gt;Soft White&lt;/em&gt; color range around 2700K.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CFL and LED lights introduced &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_temperature&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;color temperature&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; to the masses, and now you can find temperature ranges from 2700K - 6500K. Those range from the traditional &lt;em&gt;Soft White&lt;/em&gt; incandescent interior lighting (2700K) to &lt;em&gt;bright daylight&lt;/em&gt; at the 6500K range. There's a quick write-up &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.batteriesplus.com/2013/seeing-things-in-a-different-light&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;at BatteriesPlus&lt;/a&gt; (of all places) with some pictures to help show the difference. Another good indication of the differences is visible on the road at night. The traditional sealed-beam headlight used exclusively in the US prior to the mid-80s is very warm. The halogen bulb (now the base lighting used) was very blue by comparison. The HID or Xenon bulbs now becoming common are even more blue (generally 5-6000K) and are actually more daylight colored, and make halogen bulbs look yellow by comparison. (The pink/purple color you see in some lights is due to ratings above 6000K. I've seen aftermarket HID bulbs in the 8000-12000K range.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The color rendition you saw in your dad's shop would be somewhere in between based on the amount of natural v artificial light that was hitting the particular area you were working in. For doing photography of your finished works, the color temperature would be important. For general wood working, I doubt it would matter much so long as you have &lt;em&gt;enough&lt;/em&gt; light to see by (see my beef at the end). If you're doing finishing work, it could matter based on the color temp of the final resting place of your project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that the CFL &amp;amp; LED bulbs are coming down in price quite nicely, you can buy a few in different temperatures and put them in different areas of your shop to see which you like best, then replace everything with that temperature. In regards to my note above about finishing, you could, if you wanted to get super fancy, install more than one set of fixtures and have different color temp bulbs in each set - then, when you're doing your finishing, you could flip on the lights appropriate to the expected final destination of the piece to ensure the color came out as expected. &lt;em&gt;Some may consider that overkill.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, my biggest beef with the CFLs is the &lt;em&gt;amount&lt;/em&gt; of light (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lumen_%28unit%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;lumens&lt;/a&gt;) they put out. The packaging claims that a (random) 4w CFL is the equivalent of a 60w incandescent, but if you check the lumen rating for the CFL v claimed incandescent equivalent you'll see there are significant differences. The LED bulbs seem to have a more similar lumen rating for the incandescent equivalent they claim. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T13:26:32.857" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T13:26:32.857" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3677" CreationDate="2016-03-17T19:02:09.470" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Specs are on line: you can do your own comparisons. Factors to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brightness. A fair comparison would be between lamps delivering about the same number of lumens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Color temperature. Lower is, paradoxically, what we call &quot;warmer color&quot; -- more red, less blue, similar to incandescent, and higher color temp is &quot;cooler&quot; coloring with a shift toward blue. Which is &quot;better&quot; depends on where your work will be viewed, plus personal preference; the same issue exists between warm and cool white fluorescents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Color accuracy score. Fluorescents tend to have strong light at specific color ranges, and can mislead you about how colors will balance when you leave the shop and get more varied/natural lighting. I believe both LEDs and incandescent generally score better here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Efficiency. LEDs win hands down for lumens per watt, commonly about twice as efficient as modern  fluorescents and six times as efficient as incandescent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maintainability. LEDs last longest without attention, and unlike fluorescents the don't lose some of their life every time you turn them off and on. LEDs can last so long, in fact, that some fixtures are designed to be discarded and replaced after many years of service rather than being re-lamped.  That offends my sense of waste, but it can be cheaper to buy one of these than to buy the corresponding number of LED retrofit tubes and plug them into a traditional shop light. I'm currently struggling with exactly that decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2016-03-18T17:26:53.170" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T17:26:53.170" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3672" CreationDate="2016-03-17T19:15:27.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding to what @ashlar said:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second both practice and watching how others do it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some tricks like using a slight rabbet to help hold the pieces in alignment while transferring marks, using a  coping saw to make the root cut when doing this by hand, some hybrid techniques that use power tools for the rough cuts and then finish the work by hand.. Seriously, there are many &quot;right&quot; ways to do it and the trick is finding the one(s) you like and then practicing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also useful is knowing that you _are_allowed to cheat; if the joint ius a bit too loose you're allowed to glue some veneer in to build it back up and then resume fine-tuning. If the veneer matches the surrounding wood in color and grain orientation, this can be almost invisible unless you're actively looking for it. Or so I've been told.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Late edit: It's also worth noting that there is technique in how you grip the saw (I'm still training myself to use the pistol grip, with index finger pointing along the blade), how you position yourself relative to the cut so force transfers easily and controllably, in remembering to let the saw do the work rather than forcing it, in watching the saw and the cut and correcting mistakes immediately...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2016-03-18T02:17:29.883" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T02:17:29.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3681" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-17T19:16:02.517" Score="6" ViewCount="225" Body="&lt;p&gt;In writing an answer for &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3672/how-do-experts-make-dovetails-by-hand-that-fit-so-well&quot;&gt;How do experts make dovetails by hand that fit so well?&lt;/a&gt;, I realized that there is much more to say than &quot;get a good saw.&quot;  I have some old saws that I am trying to refurbish, but also just purchased a Veritas Dovetail saw ($60), which is performing so much better than the box store models.  While shopping for this saw I also found Rob Cosman's $250 saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While some of the cost differences between these saws may simply be marketing, I know that a number of design features contribute to a superior saw. So what makes a great saw great?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T14:07:05.963" Title="What makes a hand saw great?" Tags="|hand-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3670" CreationDate="2016-03-17T19:23:12.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Traditional bench grinders also heat the metal a lot, which can cause loss of temper if you aren't careful. Slow-speed grinders, especially those with water cooled grinding wheels, reduce that hazard greatly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also sharpening systems based on fine sandpaper....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sharpening preference is something of a religious debate, and a trade-off between quality of result, speed, and effort/skill. I haven't made any firm decisions yet myself, but the answer seems to be too start by picking any one, then find someone who will let you try the others and decide whether it's better and for what tools and tasks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T19:23:12.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3681" CreationDate="2016-03-17T20:54:51.603" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I know that a number of design features contribute to a superior saw. So what makes a great saw great?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The number one required thing for a hand saw is that is cuts straight.  This isn't something that you can tell just from looking at it (usually - if the saw plate is bent then it clearly won't cut straight).  A saw will cut straight when it's filed correctly and set evenly (to say nothing of the user's ability to cut a straight line).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, a great saw is made of great steel.  By this, I mean a good spring steel that can hold an edge.  If you've ever seen someone &quot;pluck&quot; a hand saw to have it make that &lt;em&gt;twong&lt;/em&gt; noise, they're testing the springiness of the steel.  Modern, boutique saws use good steel with re-file-able teeth.  Big-box makers usually use induction-hardened teeth, which cannot be easily resharpened in the home shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final thing that sets a great saw apart is the fit and finish.  If you look at a junky big-box saw, it's all plastic, aluminum, and rubber with little thought to aesthetics and ergonomics.  A properly-made hand saw is beautiful to look at and feels wonderful in the hand, even after sawing away for an hour.  Great saws age very well and develop a nice patina.  Cheap saws look like junk no matter how old they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are of course varying degrees of greatness, even within great sawmakers.  Veritas makes some excellent saws at a good price point because they are able to automate a lot of the processes that go into it.  Someone like Rob Crossman, Bad Axe, or Lie-Nielsen uses processes that are more labor-intensive, thus have a higher cost.  Also, you are paying for a name for some of these as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are plenty of vintage/antique saws that can be made to work just as well as a new saw.  Take a look at this &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/topics/27984&quot;&gt;Lumberjocks forum thread&lt;/a&gt; if you don't believe me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T20:54:51.603" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3670" CreationDate="2016-03-17T20:58:25.683" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;(1) If your dad is sharpening drill bits by hand, he is a real treasure. Few people have that ability any more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) There is no difference between the principles of sharpening tools depending on the material. The geometry of the tool edges will be different depending on the material, but the grinding process can be the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(3) Skill is a lot more important than equipment. A togishi with a rock pulled out of a stream bed can make a machinist with a $10,000 grinder look like a fool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(4) There are other posts on this forum describing how to do sharpening. Use search.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(5) I find cheap sharpening guides to be difficult to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(6) The Woodsharp 3000 (the linked tool) seems to be a fairly decent appliance for easy sharpening. Key characteristics: it goes the right speed (580 rpm); you can easily switch out different abrasives; you can hold an exact angle consistently. These kind of flat wheels are the right starting point for someone starting out sharpening or faceting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T20:58:25.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3685" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3687" CreationDate="2016-03-17T21:49:53.523" Score="8" ViewCount="19796" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am learning furniture building. I started by building tables using pocket hole screws to attach the planks together and also to attach the table top to the apron/base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am now converting to using fasteners, such as table buttons, Z-clips, etc., to attach the table top to allow for expansion and contraction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, if I am properly using fasteners to attach the table top, allowing for it to expand and contract, will pocket hole screws allow the table to expand and contract as it is supposed to? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2023" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-03-17T22:01:00.087" LastActivityDate="2019-12-24T02:51:59.283" Title="Do pocket hole screws allow for proper expansion and contraction in planked table tops?" Tags="|joinery|furniture|wood-movement|tabletop|table-making|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3672" CreationDate="2016-03-17T21:51:47.210" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say that 1/16'' tolerance, or 1.5mm respectively, is actually pretty bad. You should rather aim for 0.1mm tolerance, not 1.5mm. The final piece should have no visible gaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How to do that?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, of course diligence, proper tools, proper technique, and practice (well, duh). But second, there's a few tricks you can apply, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a beginner, use softwood (pine, for example). Do not make your life harder than it needs to be while you are still learning. Softwood is not only &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; easier to work with and more tool-edge-friendly, it is also &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; more forgiving to little mistakes that you may make, and will make.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;When in doubt, you can always make a softwood tail slightly rather too large than too small, and fit it in with a little &lt;em&gt;persuasive force&lt;/em&gt; (hammer). That's not the correct way of doing it, but up to a surprisingly large limit, it will work. You can't really do that with hardwood.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If you have visible gaps, even rather huge ones, you can almost always fix the problem with a clamp. You can also do that with hardwood, but the tolerances are much, much smaller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The proper tools&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need a sharp pencil and a mortise with a precise, sharp edge in the right size.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Which kind of saw to use is somewhat of a matter of taste, but I daresay Japanese saws are superior to western ones. They are usually much, much thinner (like 0.5mm) and have finer teeth, and they cut on pull, which lets you control the saw a lot better. There's nothing like a Dozuki for cutting dovetails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A jig will help you big time. Commercial jigs &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=41718&amp;amp;cat=1,42884&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;like this one&lt;/a&gt; which not only guide the saw but also hold it with a magnet give you perfect precision even on your first ever dovetail. However, they make cutting dovetails almost too easy, and they do cost a bit of money. But even a simple small block of hardwood somehow clamped onto the work piece will help big deal doing a perfect perpendicular cut along a defined line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The proper technique&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, you want to do one half of the joint, do not touch the other piece of wood yet. It is simply not possible to produce something that will fit if you mark the second piece before having finished the first. Decide whether you want to do tails or pins first- there is no right or wrong. Half of the woodworkers will tell you to do pins first, the other half will tell you to do the tails first. Do whichever you feel most comfortable with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a marking gauge to mark the length of your pins/tails so you have the same length everywhere. Copy the required thickness from the board, do not measure. Some gauges have a micrometer screw that lets you adjust the setting. Those are normally not very useful, but here they can be really handy: You can optionally make the tails/pins a tiny bit longer if you want by giving the micrometer screw one or two turns.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The rationale behind that is that if your tails/pins are a tiny amount too short, the joint doesn't fit properly, it looks really bad. Which sucks because there is nothing you can do about it except spend 4 hours on the sander thinning the whole board down. On the other hand, if they are a tiny amount too long, it takes two strokes with the smoothing plane, or 15 seconds with sand paper, and it looks absolutely perfect. Preferably, of course, tails/pins should be exactly as long as they should be, but very slightly too long is harmless whereas slightly too short is a disaster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mark the desired shape of your tails/pins. You are in principle free to choose any angle, and any regular or irregular layout or proportions that you want, there are very few &amp;quot;rules&amp;quot; that are the kind you should follow. There are entire religions about which is the correct formula for the width of tails, but I've done them in many variations including irregular widths, and you can't really tell that one or the other is truly &amp;quot;wrong&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;As a rule of thumb, try to get a somewhat even distribution for the beginning and do the outermost pins half-width (looks pleasing), and go for somewhat steeper (1:6 or even 1:4) angles if you use soft wood or very thin boards, and rather not-so-steep angles on hardwood. You can use a selfmade jig or a commercial one to get the correct angle, or simply measure. All that is just a rule of thumb, you can in principle do whatever you want.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Although at this point, you do not yet need to be super precise on marking, try to be precise anyway, use a sharp pencil or a kogatana. It never hurts to work with diligence, and you should get the habit of doing precise marks, so do it anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All accessible lines (that is, any lines that have contact with an outer surface) are cut with the saw, then the rest is worked with the chisel. First mark the line with one exact hit, cutting fibers. Then remove the cut-off chip. Begin exactly orthogonal to the board by using a small piece of wood as a guide. After the first millimeter, you are allowed -- and encouraged -- to &amp;quot;cut behind&amp;quot; a little (I am not sure about the correct term to use in English, the German word is &amp;quot;hinterstechen&amp;quot;). Doing so will make it a great deal easier fitting pieces together later while preserving a perfect visible edge on the outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TODO: add a sketch (coming on weekend)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have finished one side, hold it against the other side, and carefully, diligently, mark its contour onto the other piece with your sharp pencil. Here, it really counts, so take your time, be precise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now do the second piece, but note that the pencil marks you made by drawing around the first piece are of course outside the form of the first piece. Which means that whatever cuts you make, the pencil mark &lt;strong&gt;must still be visible&lt;/strong&gt; afterwards. If the marks are no longer visible afterwards, you will have a visible gap.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;When in doubt, stay rather on the safe side. It's better to have the mark visible and the tiniest amount of overshoot than to be too small. With a broad and well-sharpened chisel in your hand, you can carve off very, very minute sheets (less a tenth of a millimeter) if need be. You can always take away, but it's hard to add material that you've cut off. It's possible, only just not nearly as easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When trying to fit the pieces together and they don't really like fitting, you will need to remove something somewhere. But where?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apply a little more force, and then pull the pieces apart. Now look at the little surfaces. They will all be rather uniform in look and texture, except one or two of them which will have a mirror-smooth surface. This is where you tried to force the non-fitting pieces together and they rubbed against each other. Take off a minute slice of wood with a broad, sharp chisel from these locations. Try again, repeat. You won't need to try more often than a couple of times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The tricks&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;The just-over-half trick&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When chiselling out, do not start at the beginning of the to-be-removed piece. Instead, start somewhere in the middle, and go down in an angle. Once you are certain that you are done just over half, stop working. Do the remaining pieces on the same side, and always stop once you are just over half done.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Now turn the board around and start from the other side. This guarantees that both sides have a clean, perfect edge, and no visible tearout is possible, no matter what. If you are a bit in a hurry, you can give it a hard hit with the chisel once you're 1/3 done from the second side, that will do away with the to-be-removed piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TODO: also add a sketch here&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;The clamp trick&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clamps can be used not only to press the joint together in the direction of the two boards. A third clamp can be used to slightly compress the dovetails. It will only be maybe half a millimeter over the whole board, but that is enough to hide the visible gaps of a normal manufacturing precision and turn a &amp;quot;meh&amp;quot; joint into a &amp;quot;woah&amp;quot; joint. The glue will hold everything in shape once it is cured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;The water trick&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a trick that a master carpenter told me (I haven't tried it myself, but once you think about it, it's so darn obvious that it simply &lt;em&gt;must work&lt;/em&gt;). Wood expands when exposed to moisture. So, if you have visible gaps, give it a mild stroke or two with the sponge, and wait a few minutes.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Obviously, having a glue that isn't too sensitive to water (or one that even prefers the presence of water, like PU glue) is necessary here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;The dirty trick&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, after all, you still have &amp;quot;meh&amp;quot; quality joint with visible gaps, fill the gaps with a mixture of sawdust and glue. The sawdust will give the glue a convincing color, which will make the gap look a lot less prominent.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;For that reason, it's always a good idea to preserve some of the sawdust or wood shavings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="135" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T06:46:58.590" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3685" CreationDate="2016-03-17T22:00:19.083" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;will pocket hole screws allow the table to expand and contract as it is supposed to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming you built something that was fastened together along the lines of this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RhnwX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RhnwX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;table&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ana-white.com/2012/10/plans/updated-tryde-coffee-table-pocket-holes&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where you used pocket screws to attach the individual boards together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mentioned that you are switching to more movement-capable fasteners to attach the table top to the base, which is good.  Otherwise, there should be no issue with using pocket screws to connect the individual boards together - it will more-or-less act like a glue joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T22:00:19.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3685" CreationDate="2016-03-17T23:26:55.820" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order to determine how and where to fasten wood parts together remember that wood expands and contracts differently in length (tree vertical), radially (from center to outside) and tangentially (generally parallel to growth rings) due to factors like temperature and moisture content.  For most woods, change in length is negligible and radial movement is generally half the amount of tangential movement for the same dimensions. Connecting woods with the same directional orientation is fairly safe since the movements are similar.  The problem shows up when you connect boards with different orientations.  On a table top all of the boards for the top surface are moving in the same directions, but when you mount the top to the base problems arise. Securing the table top to the sides parallel to the top boards will not cause stress along the length of the apron and top.  The problem arises across the top.  The table top width will expand and contract while the apron at the ends will not since its length orientation relative to the top is not moving at the same rate.  If you connect the top and apron continuously with screws (or glue), stress on the connection will increase as the table width and relative movement increases. Eventually, the screws will strip out or the top boards will buckle.  Connectors such as buttons or z clips are better since the top can expand and contract in slotted connections to accommodate the different rates of expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for using pocket screws to join the top surface planks,  You get a much more uniform surface with glue without developing gaps since the boards connect continuously.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T23:26:55.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3672" CreationDate="2016-03-18T10:33:16.693" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are numerous good tips and suggested ways of approaching this already in the replies so I wasn't going to add another Answer but I found that what I wanted to add was too long for a Comment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How do experts make dovetails by hand that fit so well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same way they do everything so well: practice, practice, practice :-) It sounds trite perhaps but that really is the 'secret'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most amateurs don't do this kind of thing, although they should, but many pros and aspiring pros starting out with dovetails will practice cutting them again and again (note: not everyone needs to do this, but if you do you do and there's no shame in it). I've seen six to more than 10 test joints done before tackling the first dovetailing project, and sometimes early joints done in a project re-done because by the time the woodworker has complete the third or fourth drawer the first drawer's corners are no longer good enough. I think the largest number of self-directed practice dovetails I've seen was nearly 30, done in a variety of woods (see point on this at bottom) to get as broad a range of experience as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be noted that practice doesn't cease once you've created perfect dovetails once, expect to want to or have to do further practice down the line, e.g. if you feel a bit rusty because you haven't dovetailed in a while, or you're tackling them in a new wood species and want to get a feel for how it cuts doing tails and pins. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Technique&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In terms of what technique to actually use to cut your dovetails, there are so many to pick from — including the major divide, tails first or pins first? — I'm not even going to attempt to describe one. But I want to emphasise one solid-gold tip, &lt;em&gt;don't mark your tails and pins and then start cutting&lt;/em&gt;. Instead, cut either your tails and pins then transfer your marks from them to the other board directly, like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UmYbV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UmYbV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Transfer marking&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the only way to ensure good fit when working by hand. Any slight discrepancy or inaccuracy in one tail (or pin) is transferred to the end of the next board, meaning you then cut to match. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last point on technique: it doesn't really make any difference if you do the whole job using one saw and one chisel, or a marking knife, dovetail saw, coping saw, one bench chisel and a pair of skew chisels to do the same job. Results are what count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wood type matters&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Last tip I want to leave you with: &lt;em&gt;don't practice on softwoods if you want to work in hardwoods&lt;/em&gt;. This is one area where the experience gained with softwoods won't port over that well to hardwoods. (The reverse is also true.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Softwoods (especially modern fast-growth softwoods with wide grown rings) have lots of earlywood which doesn't saw or chisel anything like most hardwoods do. In particular if you're doing any fine-tuning by paring with a chisel it can be challenging to get good results because the abundant soft/spongy earlywood wants to crumble or tear out given any opportunity. Super-sharp chisels are a must here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't mean you have to practice on the expensive hardwood you want to make your project from to gain useful experience, although by all means do so if you can afford it or have suitable scraps available. Cheaper hardwoods like birch or poplar can be excellent practice woods for working in more expensive hardwoods like hard maple or black walnut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;tolerances of 1/16&quot; of an inch or less&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1/16&quot; / 1.6mm would actually be considered too sloppy even for rough carpentry. You want to aim for under 1/100&quot; / 0.25mm and seriously, much less than this on any decent furniture project. Using most woodworking glues (which don't fill gaps well) joints should be tight enough that there's a firm friction fit at minimum, if not requiring a few blows from a mallet or hammer to bring the pieces together. On dovetails specifically it's considered quite normal that the joint needs to be tapped together (as you'll be hitting finished surfaces here you protect the workpiece with a scrap block of wood if required).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dovetails are a joint where sloppy fit is particularly punished. Firstly on a practical level because the joint could be loose and will be weaker than it should be (dovetailed corners are considered among the strongest of all joints). Secondly on an aesthetic level, as most dovetails are exposed on the finished item gaps can be &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; noticeable (even after filling). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have a dove tail jig for my router and my machined results don't fit as nicely as the experts done by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This indicates something is wrong with the setup, possibly your technique or the jig itself. The setup is I think the most likely cause, any decent jig should ensure a nice tight fit assuming it is fit properly to the ends of each pair of matching boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T10:33:16.693" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3672" CreationDate="2016-03-18T13:19:37.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm of the jig school.  I love working with wood but just the thought of cutting dovetails by hand I find daunting enough I don't want to take the time to perfect.  (I do admire those that do though!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to cut finger joints on my bandsaw and that was tedious enough.  So I bought a simple jig to do dovetails.  I do find dovetails to be so much more attractive than fingers joints too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With my jig set up correctly and proper technique of using my router, my dovetails fit perfectly, and need a slight tapping with a rubber mallet to seat them together snuggly.  So as Graphus pointed out, your 'sloppy' joints are more likely a problem with the jig or the user.  But just like doing it by hand, you still need some practice and knowledge to get them right (just a lot less than by hand).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T13:19:37.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3691" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3693" CreationDate="2016-03-18T13:56:25.393" Score="3" ViewCount="3359" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to reinforce a 2.2m span of shelf made out of 18mm OSB bord with two 60*4 mm steel strips running underneath the board.  The shelf will be 1m deep front-to-back and carry a 100-kg load (consider it uniformly distributed over the shelf).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the best method of connecting the strip to the board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Screws are obvious answer, what size should I get and how many? Or would glue or rivets suit me better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that connection points would mostly have sliding forces when the shelf is bent under load, but I'm not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1811" LastEditorUserId="1811" LastEditDate="2016-03-18T23:24:32.647" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T17:48:13.433" Title="How to attach steel strip to OSB board" Tags="|joinery|board-materials|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3691" CreationDate="2016-03-18T14:07:57.393" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would actually tend toward bolts.  Bolts with rounded heads or slightly recessed into the wood will provide  holding strength with the nut at the bottom while producing the least amount if bother on the top of the shelf.  This spreads the holding power over a larger area than the threads of a screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rkq26.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rkq26.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Screws will have to go through the steel up into the wood and they will need to be short enough not to poke through.  and OSB will slowly 'release' the screws over time as pressure is applied.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glue might work, for a while anyway, but you'd have to get a glue to hold metal and wood, and I'm not sure how good of a surface OSB is for gluing to, someone else would have to answer that one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rivets could work, but personally I'd go with bolts instead since they are easier to remove should you need to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add for reinforcement, I'd go with angle iron, as the 'triangle' is very strong and you can get away with a much smaller piece for the same strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uCRBg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uCRBg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-03-18T14:48:43.090" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T14:48:43.090" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3691" CreationDate="2016-03-18T15:41:31.547" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to reinforce a 2.2m span of shelf made out of 18mm OSB bord with two 60*4 mm steel strips running underneath the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that connection points would mostly have sliding forces when the shelf is bent under load, but I'm not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll answer this from a structural engineer's standpoint (being that I am one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you're doing here is making a &lt;em&gt;composite shape&lt;/em&gt; out of your wood shelf with steel reinforcement.  As this shape bends, in order to behave compositely, you need to restrain the relative slipping of the OSB layer over the steel layer and develop what's called &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shear_flow#Shear_flow_in_semi-monocoque_structures&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;shear flow&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; between the two layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The math behind the answer is beyond the scope of this SE, but I'll try to give you a belt-and-suspenders answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Screws are obvious answer, what size should I get and how many? Or would glue or rivets suit me better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have 18mm (~ 11/16&amp;quot;) thick OSB and 4mm (~ 3/16&amp;quot;) thick steel straps for a total depth of 22mm (~ 7/8&amp;quot;).  I would go with 19mm (3/4&amp;quot;) long round head or pan head screws, say a #8 or #10 screw size, spaced at 100-150mm (4&amp;quot;-6&amp;quot;) on center.  You'll have to drill through the steel strap, obviously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I'm a fan of SPAX screws for OSB since they have an aggressive, self-drilling thread pattern.  They make a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.spax.us/en/multi-material-construction-screws/unidrive-pan-head.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pan-head screw&lt;/a&gt; that would be just about perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Pcq4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Pcq4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;screw&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most glues will not form a long-term or reliable bond between steel and wood, so I would not recommend that.  Rivets might work, but I'm not too optimistic about their long-term holding power in wood compared to screws (and they're harder to install).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@Ashlar Yes, to stiffen the shelf. Max load is 100kg more or less evenly distributed. Shelf's depth is 1m.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would space the straps at the approximate third points of the depth of the shelf (i.e., 33cm from either the front or back).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:  I just did a quick back of the envelope calculation on your shelf.  The shear flow between the two layers will be on the order of 200 lb/in (or 100 lb/in per strap).  So, the #10 by 3/4&amp;quot; screws at 4&amp;quot; centers should work.  See &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=2&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwjqp7XB0MrLAhVlkoMKHUQ4AHEQFgglMAE&amp;amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buildgp.com%2FDocumentViewer.aspx%3Frepository%3Dbp%26elementid%3D3806&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNHYpCrGdTKs7xxx_wJJWztOPJC1dA&amp;amp;sig2=hDQTFtTPGvgQytDjPwF34w&amp;amp;cad=rja&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this PDF&lt;/a&gt; for screw shear capacities in plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T16:15:10.043" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3691" CreationDate="2016-03-18T15:52:17.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know I am not really answering the question, but putting a steel strip as you describe under a shelf will do nothing to support it. For a 6 foot shelf you would need a 1.5&quot; high steel bar (thickness does not matter too much). So, unless your &quot;strip&quot; is a 60mm x 4mm x 40mm bar then it will not do anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not recommend a pan head screw (as in a different answer) for anything on a bookshelf, because it sticks out. All the fittings on a bookshelf must be flush, otherwise the books gets damaged. You may think that because the pan head is on the bottom of the shelf it will not damage any book, but that is not the case, it will. I know this because I have a very large library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a 6-foot shelf you will need tall cross member (such as I describe above). For steel the cross member needs to be about 1.5&quot; tall and if it is wood about 2.5&quot; tall. Alternatively you can use a supporting posts in the middle of the shelf, effectively making them into 2 x 3' shelf instead of one 6' shelf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe I am misunderstanding your question. Are you saying the dimension of the strip is 2.2m x 60mm x 4mm ? In that case, it will work as long as the bar is oriented so that that 60mm dimension is vertically under the shelf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fix such a bar, what I would do is not use screws at all. Make a 4mm x 2mm groove in the shelf then just fit the bar into the slot. On the side supports I would cut a hole 60mm x 4mm all the way through the side walls because you will need a lot of support there. You may even want to add small angle braces at the side walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastEditorUserId="306" LastEditDate="2016-03-18T16:00:25.980" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T16:00:25.980" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3685" CreationDate="2016-03-19T07:39:20.520" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do pocket hole screws allow for proper expansion and contraction in planked table tops?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It completely depends on where they're sited. They're perfectly acceptable in some places and utterly wrong in others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Refer to this previous Question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/908/what-general-considerations-do-i-need-to-take-into-account-for-wood-movement/910?s=2|1.2481#910&quot;&gt;What general considerations do I need to take into account for wood movement?&lt;/a&gt; for more info on that regard with some more useful info in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2439/stabilizer-for-softwood-tabletop-that-bows/2441#2441&quot;&gt;this Answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anywhere a pocket screw (or any other fastener, or glue) restricts the ability of cross-grain wood joints to expand and contract as they need to with changes in internal moisture content you have a problem — either the fastener has to give (breaking or bending) or the wood has to give (breaking free of the fastener or if it can't bowing and/or cracking overall). Slightly off-topic: this is one reason that some hammer-and-nails carpentry can appear to break the rules, it's because nails allow for some movement in part because they're mild steel and can bend a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To give a specific example for anyone who has trouble visualising where pocket holes work OK and where they're a bad choice I'll take a section of the image posted by grfrazee and highlight the badly placed ones:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r0JHL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r0JHL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pocket screws used badly&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; in the long apron that trio of screws would be matched by another trio on the facing apron, that's why they're not suitable. In only one apron you could get away with it... assuming the top were not glued down and screwed in place rigidly as this plan calls for!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am now converting to using fasteners, such as table buttons, Z-clips, etc., to attach the table top to allow for expansion and contraction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case it's of help, my two favourites are shown in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2720/will-these-table-legs-support-this-table/2731#2731&quot;&gt;this Answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-03-19T07:39:20.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3696" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3697" CreationDate="2016-03-19T16:02:18.757" Score="2" ViewCount="2756" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever I see demonstrations of applying linseed oil to wood, people are always applying it to the finished piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this still the correct approach when working with cabinetry panels, that have been designed to allow for wood movement? I'm imagining that if the panel was oiled in the finished frame, and then exposed to a dryer environment, it could shrink and expose non-oiled surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2030" LastActivityDate="2016-03-19T17:44:31.650" Title="Oil before or after glue-up?" Tags="|cabinetry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-03-19T23:40:10.410" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3696" CreationDate="2016-03-19T17:44:31.650" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever I see demonstrations of applying linseed oil to wood, people are always applying it to the finished piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this still the correct approach when working with cabinetry panels, that have been designed to allow for wood movement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend oiling the floating panels before assembling into the frame.  This will have the benefit that when the frame shrinks, the panel that is revealed beneath is already finished.  It's quite distracting to see a clear line on a floating panel where finish was not applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you oil ahead of time, it will provide a little resistance to glue when the entire frame is glued up so that the floating panel will not stick in the groove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2016-03-19T17:44:31.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3566" CreationDate="2016-03-20T00:49:51.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To me it looks more like a blacksmithing-related question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One option would be to heat them in order to hammer them to a new blank shape, then to make them cool down in ashes for the metal to be soft. Then to cold-chisel them with the grooves you need. Finally to heat them again for hardening to quench them and to temper them. There is a neat video that shows how auriou rasps are handmade (french sorry) : &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gvr2nZeAfNc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Youtube Auriou rasps&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't try it myself now but definitely will do it at some point :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2031" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T00:49:51.500" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3699" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3702" CreationDate="2016-03-20T01:20:14.380" Score="4" ViewCount="1291" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hand-carved my first Kuksa a month ago from half an ash log. I worked with semi-dry wood (definitely not green, but still wet). I used axe, Japanese gouge and knife and all went well. The bowl is not too thick either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I let it dry in a plastic bag opened in the bowl and after some (short) drying I put linseed oil on it and let it dry more. I was quite surprised because it was absorbing so much linseed oil. A bit like a sponge... After two weeks of drying and the final application of a mixture of beeswax with linseed oil and some more drying I tested it with some warm tea. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To my disappointment I got a lot of linseed oil floating in my bowl. Then I let the tea in the bowl for some time, to see how it holds. In very little time tea began to ooze from the pores on the outside of the bowl in the faces that were cut across the grain. Then the bottom which was getting wet from this has split.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I guess my mistake has been to not let the wood dry out completely before oiling and that the oil somehow has caused the wood to contract, somehow keeping the pores open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I guessing right? Or is the ash really spongy like this and not suitable for bowls? Or have I overlooked something. Sorry I'm only starting with bowl carving...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to add that I haven't got this issue with a well-dried beech bowl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2031" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T14:40:17.100" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T14:43:43.647" Title="Carved kuksa of ash wood has split and oozed water, what has gone wrong?" Tags="|wood-drying|bowl|carving|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2030" CreationDate="2016-03-20T02:27:57.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An option could be to burn it. I haven't tried this, but it might be of help. It is a technique used to hollow bowls in spoons and in other tasks, but I can't see how it wouldn't work here. The idea would be to build with some rebar a curved shape, such as a circle (or a quarter of a circle), then to heat it in a fire or with a welding torch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When red hot you press it into the wood and it will burn out most of it in the direction of the grain (like in a swedish torche). While it may take some time it might come in handy and is a cheap way to do what you want. And in the bargain the charred wood is protected. You can then finish to pare the sides of the wood with a brush and enjoy a smooth surface showing the grain of your wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See for inspiration those videos on youtube:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xuUHSR8Roow&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fire hollowing a didgeridoo&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AG_-GY2mRE0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shou sugi ban&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2031" LastEditorUserId="2031" LastEditDate="2016-03-20T02:35:55.793" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T02:35:55.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3670" CreationDate="2016-03-21T12:16:15.047" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;TL;DR warning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Bench grinder, tool sharpener or sharpening stone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of those are suitable tools for sharpening woodworking equipment, from chisels to plane irons to drill bits (certain types). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note on sharpening bits: most woodworkers don't sharpen their drill bits these days. Partly this is because many won't dull their bits noticeably in any reasonable timeframe, but also because many modern bits are not user-sharpenable (at least not easily). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Traditional wood bits were made of relatively soft steel (soft enough to be filed), of a form that allowed access by a small file and last but not least an easy replication of the necessary angles. Modern bits are mostly shaped such that you couldn't file them freehand and expect to get anything like the required accuracy, and also some are high-speed steel (HSS) which will usually be far too hard to file anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some previous Questions and Answers with related information:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/672/is-there-a-best-way-to-sharpen-an-edged-tool-like-a-chisel&quot;&gt;Is there a &amp;#39;best&amp;#39; way to sharpen an edged tool like a chisel?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2403/does-it-matter-what-kind-of-diamond-stone-i-get&quot;&gt;Does it matter what kind of diamond stone I get?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1963/sharpening-grits-naming-and-selection&quot;&gt;Sharpening grits -- naming and selection&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2398/how-does-one-aggressively-sharpen-chisels-and-plane-irons-when-damaged/2401#2401&quot;&gt;How does one aggressively sharpen chisels and plane irons when damaged?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2076/what-criteria-would-want-me-to-bevel-my-chisel-in-a-certain-way/2079#2079&quot;&gt;What criteria would want me to bevel my chisel in a certain way&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3374/how-can-i-tell-if-wood-turning-lathe-chisels-are-sharp/3377#3377&quot;&gt;How can I tell if wood turning (lathe) chisels are sharp?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2211/diy-honing-oil/2214#2214&quot;&gt;DIY honing oil?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bench grinder&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;These are considered the basis of sharpening for many, but equally other woodworkers don't have one after decades in the shop so as vital as one might seem it can be considered optional. Desirable certainly, but not vital for all woodworkers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why you'd &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; to use a grinder is very dependent on what tools you use (as well as if you buy secondhand tools which can require far more metal removed to get into serviceable shape) and how you use/abuse them. I stress need here because wanting to use one to reduce the time required to sharpen is a separate issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sharpening stone (with or without a guide)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Stone here refers to both stones and diamond plates which are used similarly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the default way to sharpen in many, perhaps most, woodworking shops today. In almost all cases you can effectively sharpen any dull hand tool in a few minutes or less — the goal should be to return to work in 2-3 minutes, and it is possible to do it faster (30 seconds or so). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether exclusively hand sharpening is an efficient use or your time is dependent on various factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The way you sharpen, e.g. honing a secondary or micro bevel or working the whole bevel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The type of stone/diamond plate. Some are much more abrasive than others but note that this isn't necessarily because they're harder. Waterstones are famously fast-cutting but this is not because they are very hard but because fresh abrasive particles are exposed often as the surface wears away.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The type of woods commonly used. Hardwoods in general are much harder on cutting edges than softwoods and some species in particular are extremely wearing, often due to a high silica content.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The type of tool, e.g. turning chisels need to be sharpened &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; more frequently because of the way they're used.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The steel the cutter is made from. Some steels are far tougher than basic high-carbon tool steels and can also be harder in some cases.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that sharpening guides (also called honing guides) are not a must-have. You can sharpen very effectively freehand. But if you struggle to get good results, if you sometimes get a good edge and other times not, it is a good idea to make or buy a guide to help get good edges &lt;em&gt;now&lt;/em&gt; when you need them.... not at some indefinite point in the future when you get good enough at freehand sharpening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want or need a guide I strongly recommend making your own as they can be very cheap and effective, and believe it or not can work as well as any commercial guide irrespective of price. This is the best type IMO because it is so simple to make, costs nearly nothing and is capable of extraordinary accuracy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x57cE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x57cE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shop-made sharpening guide&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sharpening machines&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Note that there are multiple types: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;some water-cooled, some not;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;some have vertical wheels, some horizontal plattens such as the WorkSharp 3000 you linked to, some use abrasive belts;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;some are very low-speed machines (so work slowly to very slowly), others are faster but use cool-running abrasives or design features to keep temperature in check (including water cooling).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most woodworkers &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; machine of this type should be considered a luxury. As with any luxury get one if you can afford one, but don't sweat it if you can't. They are very much in the Not A Necessity category for most of us.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You didn't ask about stropping but as you're setting up to sharpen from scratch some mention of it should be made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Strops&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Stropping (whether using a bare strop or one loaded with compound) is an adjunct to other sharpening methods and as touched on in one of the links above, should broadly speaking be considered a &lt;em&gt;honing or refinement process&lt;/em&gt;, not a sharpening process in and of itself. However, a 'dull' tool &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be brought back to razor sharp just by stropping (esp. if using a stropping compound) so the distinction is a little blurred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What matters on a practical level is just how dull the edge has become. Past a certain point — when the edge has become too rounded — you won't be able to get a good sharp edge only by stropping. It's for this reason that people who are big proponents of stropping for edge maintenance (e.g. many whittlers and carvers) will have a strop on hand at all times so that touch-ups can be done as often as needed (every 20 minutes in some cases). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you strop frequently you'll rarely need to sharpen your chisels in the conventional meaning of the word, so they'll rarely see a stone or diamond plate. With regular use and a bit of luck you can reduce the need to sharpen by a factor of ten or more, &lt;em&gt;stretching the interval from days or weeks to months&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T12:16:15.047" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3699" CreationDate="2016-03-21T14:43:43.647" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I hand-carved my first Kuksa a month ago from half an ash log.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's your problem.  Kuksa's are best made from a close-grained wood (traditionally birch burl).  Ash, being open-grained, is very subject to seepage like you described.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I would like to add that I haven't got this issue with a well-dried beech bowl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes sense since beech is close-grained.  I would imagine that maple and cherry would make a good kuksa for the same reason.  Red oak would not.  Black walnut has some chemicals that I might not want dissolved in my tea (and its grain is a little open too).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So I let it dry in a plastic bag opened in the bowl and after some (short) drying I put linseed oil on it and let it dry more. I was quite surprised because it was absorbing so much linseed oil. A bit like a sponge...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, since ash is open-grained, the exposed end grain will soak up oil like a sponge.  Also, are you talking about boiled linseed oil (commonly called BLO) or flax seed oil?  They are essentially the same thing, but flax seed oil is considered food-safe.  I wouldn't use BLO on something intended to hold hot liquid that I will drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for more information on finishing a kuksa, I'd recommend having a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lotsofwoods.com/blog/the-best-finish-on-a-kuksa-oil-or-wax&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt;.  Jeff Ballantyne has a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCwItm_LHHGv-ES5736VWa7g&quot;&gt;YouTube channel&lt;/a&gt; as well that has a lot of good information on kuksa and spoon carving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T14:43:43.647" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3703" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3707" CreationDate="2016-03-21T18:25:01.143" Score="6" ViewCount="6514" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking at this table made by Harp Design company &lt;a href=&quot;https://harpdesignco.com/products/melissa-table&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Melissa Table&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The description describes the top's construction as: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each top is crafted from reclaimed old growth pine which is planed down to approximately 5/8″ thickness. It is then joined together using ship lap joinery on top of a solid plywood core to make the finished top approximately 2″ thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering how I could make a table similar. For example, if I used 1x4 pine planks and joined them, how could I properly attach the planked top to a 3/4&quot; plywood sheet? (I'm thinking about how to allow for wood movement).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, how could I trim out the edge of the table. It looks like in this table they used veneer or really thin wood to cover the edges of the planks and plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eERcq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eERcq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Melissa Table&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2023" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2020-06-16T16:25:51.733" LastActivityDate="2020-06-16T19:37:42.807" Title="How can I create a planked wood table top with a plywood core?" Tags="|joinery|wood|wood-movement|tabletop|table-making|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3704" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3705" CreationDate="2016-03-21T18:36:41.310" Score="7" ViewCount="16273" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making something for outdoor use and I've painted it with a matte exterior latex paint. I'm satisfied with the protection that the paint will offer but I'm experimenting with ways to make it look nicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now I am considering glossy finishes. I have found that I much prefer the appearance and texture of shellac (de-waxed) to a high gloss spar urethane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't really need good scratch resistance for this particular piece, and the paint should protect the wood enough from moisture and sunlight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also not too concerned about color changes over time as long as it is uniform. The paint is just brown, and maintaining the precise brown isn't super important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, how should I expect a fairly thick shellac finish (over paint) to behave outdoors over time? It will be exposed to sunlight, a wide range of temperatures, and plenty of rain, snow, and ice. Should I expect flaking? Spotting? Blemishes (I've heard it gets cloudy with moisture)? Other weird stuff? Or will it maintain its nice appearance? If it does get grimy, will it be prone to staining (with polyurethane a good wipe down with an all purpose cleaner takes care of it)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already own the paint and don't really want to buy another gallon of glossy paint; I'm trying to do this with the stuff I already have sitting around collecting dust on my shelves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T18:42:37.073" LastActivityDate="2020-05-13T07:58:02.333" Title="Shellac over paint, outdoors" Tags="|finishing|finish-selection|outdoor|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3704" CreationDate="2016-03-21T19:08:08.607" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My question is, how should I expect a fairly thick shellac finish (over paint) to behave outdoors over time? It will be exposed to sunlight, a wide range of temperatures, and plenty of rain, snow, and ice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to reference &lt;a href=&quot;https://advice.thisoldhouse.com/showthread.php?8804-Urethane-over-Shellac-Shellac-over-Urethane-Shellac-outside&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt; at This Old House for some of these answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should I expect flaking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yep.  Shellac will trap moisture under the finish, which will cause the finish itself to bubble, flake, and peel over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Spotting? Blemishes (I've heard it gets cloudy with moisture)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yep and yep.  Besides the aforementioned issues with flaking/peeling, shellac does not like getting wet.  If you've ever left a hot or a sweating beverage on a bare shellac-ed wood surface, you've seen the dreaded ring in the finish.  Now imagine that, but all over, and most likely non-uniform.  The clouding eventually disappears (or lessens), but that takes a while of non-wet conditions and low enough humidity or high enough heat to make it happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Other weird stuff? Or will it maintain its nice appearance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Varnishes (and other varnish-like finishes) just don't hold up well outdoors.  The constant battering by UV rays and weather wreaks havoc on the film, which requires quite frequent maintenance to keep in anything resembling decent shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I already own the paint and don't really want to buy another gallon of glossy paint; I'm trying to do this with the stuff I already have sitting around collecting dust on my shelves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to waste your time further down the road reapplying finish, I'd bite the bullet and get the correct product &lt;em&gt;now&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T19:08:08.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3703" CreationDate="2016-03-21T19:30:16.697" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several issues to address in fabricating such a table top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, as you pointed out is wood movement.  The plywood base will not have any appreciable movement in either direction while the pine planks will expand across their width. If the two are attached, the difference must be made up  at each board, where it is very small. I suspect that is exactly what the table manufacturer has done since they specify a lap siding connection between the boards. Assuming the table is indoors, its much more problematic if you intend to use it outdoors because of the extreme exposure to moisture, a liberal calculation for the expected expansion of a 5' board is 5&quot; x 5% (assumed percentage of moisture variance) x .0029 (liberal expansion factor for yellow pine) = 0.0725 inches or approximately 1/16&quot;.  That means that the lap joints should be installed with 1/16&quot; of slop in the joint to accommodate expansion of the pine without affecting adjacent boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to how to attach the boards, there are several methods you can use.  They can be nailed.  Apply the nails under the lap so that the nails are covered by the next board. When you reach the final board you can nail it in from the side so that the top surface is nail free.  The apron trim around the perimeter will hide these nails.  When you nail the side trim you can fill any nail holes with wood filler before finishing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another alternative is to glue the boards to the plywood, but not to  each other. Since the width of each board is narrow the expansion will be absorbed within each board.  The problem with gluing is how to apply pressure evenly to each board along its length as it sets up.  This will require a very flat surface to lay the plywood on and a lot of weight to hold each plank in place as it is glued. I would recommend proceeding one board at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course the best solution is to both glue and nail.  The nails will act as your clamp holding the boards firmly to the plywood until the glue sets (wait at least 24 hours to be sure the glue is fully set before moving the table top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend using 1x2 pine boards to match the top surface cut to length and mitered at the corners glued and finish nailed to the top surface (nails alternating between the plywood and the top surface.  IF the span of the table is greater than a couple feet I suggest you increase the depth of the trim  to between 3 or 4&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T19:30:16.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3703" CreationDate="2016-03-21T20:43:15.517" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I was wondering how I could make a table similar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't really, and shouldn't try. Making a table that looks similar is easy enough, but actually laminating solid wood to plywood is inherently a flawed methodology. Even when you do this &lt;em&gt;with veneer&lt;/em&gt; it can cause bowing if it's not done correctly, and veneer is extremely thin, so it's easy to imagine the problems that might arise with a much thicker wood bonded to the plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is not the only issue with this design if we can see the details of the construction correctly from the pictures (the other major one shows up at the edges). As a result I very much doubt examples of the Melissa Table won't see structural problems down the line, it seems a certainty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Off-topic but I also think the &quot;reclaimed old-growth pine&quot; thing either describes just some of the wood, perhaps individual tables in the series, but possibly none of them at all... unless their definition of 'old-growth' is wood from tract houses from the '60s or '70s! Look at the short lengths, the abundance of knots and most importantly, the wide growth rings in the example pics on the site. The lack of narrow growth rings alone is suspicious, but taken all together you can be certain someone is fibbing or at least stretching the truth :-/&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It looks like in this table they used veneer or really thin wood to cover the edges of the planks and plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That does look like how they did the edges but even at that it's not sound construction, the short sides are the particular concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how to build a table that does look somewhat like this, but do it stably? The three best ways I can think of are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use solid wood of the full thickness (thicker wood is more costly but in pine this wouldn't be exorbitant);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;laminate thinner boards to the final thickness (there shouldn't be issues with movement as each layer will have approximately equal response to changes in moisture level);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use plywood that you veneer with shop-made veneer (and importantly, counter-veneer also), then do the edges just as this table appears to have done it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T20:43:15.517" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3704" CreationDate="2016-03-21T20:59:01.460" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shellac doesn't do well with water, that's your starting point here. It's also relatively brittle and with the expected movement in the wood you're likely to see problems with cracking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonding to the paint shouldn't be an issue initially at least, the perceived wisdom is that &quot;shellac sticks to everything and everything sticks to shellac&quot; and while that's a bit of an exaggeration it should bond very well to just about any paint. But you may see the paint shucking it off after multiple cycles of swelling and contraction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main objection of course might be shellac's well-known issue of clouding when exposed to water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I already own the paint and don't really want to buy another gallon of glossy paint; I'm trying to do this with the stuff I already have sitting around collecting dust on my shelves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest you try thinned varnish. It's not inherently a bad idea to coat paint with varnish, it's actually done more commonly that we tend to think although this is for interior projects. However, there is a potential problem here in that you'd probably want to use spar varnish (specifically formulated to be more flexible than regular varnishes) but this is noticeably yellow or amber and could give too much of a colour change for your liking, even if applied in 2-3 thin coats. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T20:59:01.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2076" CreationDate="2016-03-22T01:16:40.863" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think his method makes sense. Using a smaller rake angle should make it easier to get a smooth cut and will make the blade less likely to bite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Professional machine tools for cutting wood often have negative rakes for this reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not tried the method myself, but my first impression is that it is probably worth doing. If it makes sharpening easier, so much the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should probably make the caveat that sharper blades require thinner angles, but take more skill to use. The sharper your blade, the easier it is to screw up. The advantage of a sharper blade is that it works faster, however, for an amateur woodworker, you are not usually trying to get done as fast as possible. In the old days when professional woodworkers were being paid by the acanthus leaf, it made sense to aim for the sharpest possible blade. But for a modern hobbyist, steady, easy and reliable makes more sense. From this perspective Paul Sellers has the right idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastEditorUserId="306" LastEditDate="2016-03-22T01:21:53.457" LastActivityDate="2016-03-22T01:21:53.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3704" CreationDate="2016-03-22T17:53:33.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shellac is perhaps the worst choice for the outdoor use. If you ever set a wet glass on shellac finished furniture, you'll notice a white ring. Water softens shellac and overtime it will wear away from the surface. When it softens with water, it has a tacky feel which is a magnet for dust. When it dries, any dust or dirt essentially glues to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lowest cost solution, is to just leave the paint as is and reapply it when it looks weathered. If the paint you're using is a good quality latex paint, it won't crack and flake off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a very durable and relatively inexpensive solution, get some polyurethane (preferably water-based, since it doesn't darken the color) and wipe or brush it on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="806" LastActivityDate="2016-03-22T17:53:33.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2886" CreationDate="2016-03-22T18:26:02.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you're stabilizing wood, you're essentially displacing the water and air pockets within the grain structure with a harder material. There are many methods to do this and some work better than others. Overall, they all exploit the porous sponge-like nature of wood to wick in a liquid that will harden into the air pockets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for some kind of cheap, homemade alternative to expensive resins, you may want to try good old wood glue thinned out with water and vinegar. Also, you may want to try out thinned hide glue. Wood generally wicks in liquid through the end grain. Make sure you leave a nice freshly exposed end grain surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following article discusses some alternatives for commercial resins:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://dcknives.blogspot.com/p/wood-stabilization.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://dcknives.blogspot.com/p/wood-stabilization.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He mentions that many are acrylics dissolved in acetone.  You may want to also experiment with thinned clear acrylic paint or even thinned shellac.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several factors that effect the success, including the wood used. You're best bet is to experiment with different recipes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="806" LastEditorUserId="806" LastEditDate="2016-03-23T14:54:02.243" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T14:54:02.243" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3713" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-22T20:56:42.960" Score="3" ViewCount="1112" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I am basically asking to fix veneer here. Skipping the part of the conversation that this would be a waste of time (which I agree) I would like to know what would be involved in repairing a section of a single ply on a box top. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose this would be like replacing a veneer but I don't know if plywood changes things. Here is an example of what looks like a water damaged box with drawers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OWGXP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OWGXP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The box&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a zoomed in version if it helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2lGDu.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2lGDu.png&quot; alt=&quot;Zoomed in box&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The focus of this question I am not concerned with the appearance after the repair.  Although welcome, I am not looking for advice on matching finishes or aesthetic issues that will arise from patching this (That is covered in other questions and is usually answered good luck).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2016-03-22T21:31:13.363" Title="Replacing a portion of a ply in plywood" Tags="|plywood|wood-repair|veneer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3713" CreationDate="2016-03-22T21:28:39.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tidiest route would be to replace the entire top, or even just to fill the holes and layer another section of ply on top of the entire piece, and then round over the edges to make it look as part of the original.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without replacing the entire top I think it would be hard to hide this repair completely, but if you're happy to see some glue lines....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...depending on the thickness of the original ply, you could use some 1/4&quot; inch 3 ply with a grain pattern that matched as close as possible to the original.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process would be much the same as patching any defect - route out the damaged section to give you a straight clean edge with an even depth, cut a section of new ply to match and glue in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can route out a full length section, running along a grain line as much as possible, this will help to hide the patch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the top is thin, you may need to find even thinner ply to do the patch. You can use a thickneser on ply to make it thinner, though it's not great for the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="282" LastActivityDate="2016-03-22T21:28:39.730" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3713" CreationDate="2016-03-22T21:31:13.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, plywood is made of layers of veneir and furniture-quality plywood has one or both outer faces veneered with something prettier than the core. You &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; cutting/staining/gluing pieces of veneir to bring the low spots back up to roughly level with the rest of the table surface with a less-than-awful color match... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you could fill it with colored epoxy and sand level, which is probably the other Answer you were trying to find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you could take this as an opportunity to play with decorative inlays, turning a bug into a feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-03-22T21:31:13.363" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3716" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3719" CreationDate="2016-03-23T18:33:22.480" Score="8" ViewCount="12026" Body="&lt;p&gt;I dropped a small lamp on a piano and the edge below the keys got chipped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to fill the hole and give it the same black satin look. How can I make this repair?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n2KOj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n2KOj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;piano&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1469" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-11-25T13:46:54.813" LastActivityDate="2021-12-02T16:27:13.210" Title="How to make a small repair to a piano?" Tags="|wood-repair|paint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3717" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3718" CreationDate="2016-03-24T10:58:51.183" Score="8" ViewCount="2449" Body="&lt;p&gt;New to the forum and a bit clueless when it comes to DIY.  I'll be putting down some new floor boards and then laying subfloor sheet to give a nice even surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using 18mm floorboards and 3mm hardboard sheets.  For the floorboards I was going to use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.screwfix.com/p/goldscrew-woodscrews-double-self-countersunk-5-x-50mm-200-pack/16497&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;5 x 50mm Goldscrew Woodscrews Double Self-Countersunk screws&lt;/a&gt; (image below).  Not sure what screws I'll be using for the hardboard yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nCbwNm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nCbwNm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;screw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, do I need to countersink these screws?  And if I do what size of countersink tool should I use?  Any advice on the type / size of screws to use for the hardboard would be great as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2042" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-03-24T12:49:55.880" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T13:04:03.063" Title="Do you need to countersink self-countsink screws" Tags="|tool-selection|screws|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3717" CreationDate="2016-03-24T13:04:03.063" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So my question is, do I need to countersink these screws?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since these are going to be used on the floorboards and overlaid with another layer of subfloor sheet, so long as you screw these in enough that they don't stick proud of the floorboard surface, I see no need to countersink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;And if I do what size of countersink tool should I use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's hard to answer that question.  Countersink bits are all kinds of different sizes and slopes, so you'd be better off going to the store with a screw and seeing what will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/rockler-insty-drive-tapered-drill-bits-and-countersinks-countersinks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rockler&lt;/a&gt; (among others) makes drill bits that have countersinks built-in, like the image below.  I've used these quite a bit and I can tell you they work.  Just be careful that you don't put too much bending on the bit - they're pretty brittle when it comes to that (don't ask me how I know).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0HZAR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0HZAR.png&quot; alt=&quot;insty-bit&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any advice on the type / size of screws to use for the hardboard would be great as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hardboard that's only 3mm (1/8&quot;) is going to be hard to fasten with screws since it's so thin.  If you're set on using screws, I would use 6mm (1/4&quot;) hardboard or plywood instead with 25mm (1&quot;) screws.  These you would want to countersink since hardboard doesn't really allow screws to self-countersink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, if you're dead set on using 3mm hardboard as your subfloor, I would consider using construction adhesive and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-annular-ring-nails-2-x-25mm-0-5kg-pack/14437&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ring shank (annular ring) nails&lt;/a&gt;.  These are specifically designed to not work loose in situations like flooring so that they don't squeak.  The adhesive is just a bit of insurance in case the nails work loose.  The size I have linked is 2 x 25mm, which should be fine for the 3mm hardboard.  You may have to predrill the hardboard for the nails, just FYI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0j3SF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0j3SF.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T13:04:03.063" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3716" CreationDate="2016-03-25T19:42:43.383" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sort of repair is doable, but fair warning, getting a truly seamless repair is challenging to extremely difficult (read: nearly impossible without experience).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the same black satin look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First thing re. the surface finish, in the photos the piano looks not satin but gloss, which is what one would expect on a piano.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Satin more normally refers to a definite step down from gloss (semi-gloss is essentially a synonym). If the surface gloss here is not quite as shiny as the paint on a new black car then it's likely it is just from some surface wear, but originally it would have been a full-on &amp;quot;wet look&amp;quot; gloss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, whatever the gloss level of the piano in the flesh it can be matched with the patch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I make this repair?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are multiple approaches you could take here any of which could give a good-looking repair if done well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first general approach, common in woodworking today, is to fill the void and then overcoat with a gloss finish, which is then flattened off or blended in and buffed/polished if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other main method and the one I would recommend is to use a black filler material that can be polished to a high gloss so that you do the whole job just with a single material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are multiple fillers you would use here that could work but how perfect the repair will be is hard to say. Here's a short list:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;black shellac repair sticks (sometimes called &lt;em&gt;stopping&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tinted/coloured liquid shellac&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tinted/coloured epoxy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can get black shellac repair sticks in the right colour that's probably the ideal thing to go with, but they tend to be available only from specialist suppliers and can be expensive for a one-off repair like this because you need so little. So for this reason and others I would suggest your best bet is to use coloured epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Type of epoxy&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The epoxy doesn't have to be an expensive 'liquid epoxy system' as most pros use. As it is being coloured jet black here any slight yellow tone (as common to most cheaper epoxies) will be completely swamped by the black so there's no need to use a colourless or water-clear epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice this also means you can use a much cheaper epoxy, e.g. any epoxy glue from the hardware store with the appropriate setting time. And this will likely be in a smaller package size (still more than you'll need here) so you're saving in two ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest you go with an epoxy adhesive with a longer setting time to give you a little elbow room, although this could be done with 5-min epoxy (particularly in a colder environment where setting time will be longer than indicated on the packaging). But be aware that you &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; use the epoxy while it is still liquid for best results — it won't bond to the surface properly once it has started to set and it is far easier to inadvertently trap air bubbles when manipulating it after it has become stringy or somewhat pasty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Colouring the epoxy&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The epoxy can be coloured with many black substances and yield an acceptable result. Two of the best options are black oil paint (artist paint) or dry black pigment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With black paint you just need a dab or two to colour about a level teaspoon of epoxy deeply black, and it is important not to add too much paint to epoxy as it will weaken it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With black pigment you can add quite a bit more if desired, but it is likely that just a small amount is all you'll need to get the mixture as black as needed. For this repair I'd estimate you'll need less than a pea of black pigment. &lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; dry pigment is generally a very light powder and black pigment can be a very &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; light powder (the most common type is pure carbon) so it can easily become airborne if disturbed and will then settle on every nearby surface.... so be careful not to jostle it, don't sneeze on it and don't work in a draughty area!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you happen to have access to an old photocopier or laser printer black toner can be used as your pigment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Method&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;To mix the epoxy for use here it's best to mix it thoroughly by itself first, then blend it with the colouring agent. You can do it all in a single operation but it's easier to ensure a thorough blend of part A and part B (the resin and hardener) if they are mixed before colouring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you want to over-fill the divot. Don't attempt to fill it perfectly level with the surrounding surfaces, it's likely impossible to do anyway but it's always preferable to overfill and then remove excess and flatten off. You will probably need to make a small tent of tape (duct tape is probably ideal but masking tape will work fine) on the vertical surface to contain the epoxy and prevent it just dripping to the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much of the excess can be scraped away with a single-edged razor. Go slowly and carefully as you don't want to dig into the surrounding finish (tip: it can be advisable to scrape the corners of the razor blade against the unglazed rim of a plate or mug to round them slightly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also remove all the excess and then smooth off just using various grits of abrasive paper, backed with something e.g. a cork block or a small offcut of wood. Because you want to damage the surroundings as little as possible I would be very careful about using a truly coarse paper such as 80 grit to begin with, it'll take longer but starting with 100 or 120 grit would be safer. Then you progress to 180, then 220 grit, then 320, then 400.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After final sanding (approximately to 600 grit) with wet-or-dry paper you can go over the patch and the immediate vicinity with very fine steel wool to create an even scratch pattern (use 0000 grade), or if you prefer you can sand further with even finer wet-or-dry papers, up to approximately 1200 grit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you actually polish out the surface. In theory you can just buff the area briskly with a cloth, this can raise quite a decent gloss in some cases. You can try this and see how you get on as there's no downside, but in general to get a proper gloss you need to use a polishing agent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have nothing suitable already the best sort of thing to use is probably an automotive finish polish. These are used e.g. by applying a little to a just-damp cloth, rubbing with a circular motion and then letting the residue dry to a haze before buffing off with a dry cloth, but follow the manufacturer guidelines for the product you buy. This may call for a powered polishing mop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-11-30T13:44:50.773" LastActivityDate="2021-11-30T13:44:50.773" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3720" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3723" CreationDate="2016-03-25T23:22:37.727" Score="4" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a multi-tiered sewing box that has articulating wooden arms on the outside (the tiers slide out similar to some tackle boxes). I recently re-finished the wood but when I took it apart I noticed these thin felt or paper pads between the sides of the box (at the screw holes) and the arms which I believe were to help with friction and prevent the sides of the boxes from being scratched when opening/closing. Does anyone have ideas of what I could do to replace these? Perhaps just a simple round sticker, or a small piece of felt, or those hole protectors for 3-ring binder pages? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2049" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-03-26T17:31:55.277" LastActivityDate="2016-03-26T17:31:55.277" Title="Protective disc between moving pieces of wood" Tags="|physical-protection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3721" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3724" CreationDate="2016-03-26T00:56:51.833" Score="5" ViewCount="5429" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got my first miter saw yesterday and have been getting familiar with using it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was going to do a 45° miter cut when I realized that the blade slightly hit the plastic kerf as it came down. Also, in the fully downward position, I couldn't turn the blade because it would catch on the plastic kerf plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did some research and read that it is OK for the blade to touch the kerf because it will cut through it and shave off the plastic to make a slightly wider clearance. I just wanted to see if that is true and if I should just cut and let the blade shave off some plastic from the kerf. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1766" LastActivityDate="2021-01-24T18:47:31.860" Title="Miter saw slightly hits plastic kerf when cutting at 45°" Tags="|miter-saw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3721" CreationDate="2016-03-26T02:11:01.807" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't worry about it... the kerf board gets a little beat up from time to time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the saw, you might be able to adjust them a little wider and reduce the scarring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2016-03-26T02:11:01.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3720" CreationDate="2016-03-26T09:33:11.163" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use the plastic from many common food packages to make little washers for this purpose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used the softer plastic from the flexible lids to a few food canisters, e.g. Cadbury's cocoa, in the past which is polyethylene (PE, recycling symbol 4):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xedJm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xedJm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The high-density version HDPE (recycling symbol 2) as used in plastic milk bottles can also be used. I think you can also make suitable washer from polypropylene (PP, recycling symbol 5).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These plastic washers can actually work better than the felt ones originally fitted to the box, giving an excellent service life. If they ever do wear out they're very cheap to replace :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The challenge is actually making them since it's not obvious the best way to go about it. It is very easy to distort or split small pieces of plastic if you make the discs first and then try to drill holes at their centres. So drill the holes first spaced around a larger piece and then cut or punch the circles around each hole. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can cut the outside shape just with scissors if you had to, they don't have to be perfectly circular to function, but a leather punch can do an excellent job if you happen to have any and they will give a very neat finish. Note that the holes don't have to be dead in the centre for the washer to work well so if you're a little off don't sweat it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also get neat circles, with perfectly central holes, by cutting the plastic roughly to shape and then mounting them on a mandrel which you then chuck up in a low-speed drill. You then run the edges against sandpaper or a file as the drill spins. If you want to slightly polish the edges you can run the drill faster and gently rub with a piece of fabric such as a scrap of denim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-03-26T09:33:11.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3721" CreationDate="2016-03-26T09:38:46.580" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I did some research and read that it is OK for the blade to touch the kerf because it will cut through it and shave off the plastic to make a slightly wider clearance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, that's exactly right. The reason this is generally &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; way to do this is that the max width of different saw blades varies, some have thicker carbide inserts brazed in place than others which necessitates that the blade makes its own clearance when used in the saw for the first time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW even if the backstop was made from an aluminium extrusion it would be OK to do this because the saw would cut it without difficulty. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I just wanted to see if that is true and if I should just cut and let the blade shave off some plastic from the kerf. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short answer is yes. But you may want to check first to see if you're exactly at 45° before you do this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As frustrating as this is, the angle settings on mitre saws (even saws more expensive than the one you've bought) can't be assumed to be perfectly accurate. It's considered good practice to check if you get a perfect 45° (or any other angle) before you do any mitre cutting. If it is accurate that's great, but do check periodically down the line that it continues to give the same accuracy as the mechanism can get a little slack with use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't happen to have a mitre gauge or a reliable combination square a plastic geometry triangle like you used in school can be used to check your angle here. Despite how cheap these are they're nearly always perfectly accurate.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/czEbb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/czEbb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Plastic geometry triangles etc.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You might also be able to fold a sheet of paper to give a perfect 45, from one corner to the opposite edge like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DrmfO.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DrmfO.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Folding paper yields 45° and 90°&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-03-26T09:38:46.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3725" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-28T11:30:05.717" Score="3" ViewCount="1986" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the final stages of finishing an oak poker table. I have applied 3 coats of deep mahogany oil, which went on OK but didn't really soak in well after the first coat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I am applying 3-5 coats of polyurethane. After applying the first coat I felt small bumps here and there and so lightly sanded the surface with 400 grit paper. I have a smooth surface ready for the second coat now but I'm left with what looks like poly smudge marks in two places, possibly from pressing too hard, but only enough to smooth out the bumps. And also in a couple of places I have removed stain/oil back to original wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A similar thing happened when finishing the pedestal but I continued to finish the poly thinking it would cover it, but it is still viable. I think i can get away with it on the pedestal but not on the main surface of the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is my best course of action here? If I sand back to wood to reapply oil where do I sand back to and how to sand back only the poly so to not remove all the stain? I know in an ideal world it would be take it right back and start again, but this table has a lot of layers/sections with moulding etc. I feel sanding too much will create a knock on effect and have to sand it all, which really isn't practical!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2056" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-03-28T13:06:11.277" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T14:04:08.720" Title="Polyurethane rub down problem!" Tags="|finishing|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3725" CreationDate="2016-03-28T13:07:00.297" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;And also in a couple of places I have removed stain/oil back to original wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you sanded too far.  You only want to do a very minimum of sanding between coats for the exact reason you stated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're getting nibs in your finish, the air in your shop might be too dusty.  It's a good idea to do finishing tasks right away in the morning when the dust has had all night to settle.  Then, obviously, wait to make any dust until after the finish has set (or move the piece to a different area).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, 0000 steel wool is a bit less aggressive than sandpaper, so you might try that between coats.  Be sure to remove all dust/steel wool fragments before applying the next coat of finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is my best course of action here? If i sand back to wood to reapply oil where do i sand back to and how to sand back only the poly so to not remove all the stain? I know in an ideal world it would be take it right back and start again, but this table has a lot of layers/sections with moulding etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The course of action that will yield the best result is most likely going back and refinishing.  If it's, say, on only one face of a piece, you might be able to mask off the surrounding areas and only sand/refinish the localized area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with only spot-refinishing is that sometimes you get weird color consistency issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T13:07:00.297" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3725" CreationDate="2016-03-28T14:04:08.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have applied 3 coats of deep mahogany oil, which went on OK but didn't really soak in well after the first coat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stains's latex or oil base seals the wood making penetration by further coats unable to be absorbed. This is one reason I use wood dyes (such as Transtint) to color the wood,  The very fine powdered pigment is usually suspended in water or alcohol and can be applied in several coats to approach a match in steps.  I have successfully color matched damaged, sanded areas in carved chair backs without having to remove all finish from the exposed face.  I would suggest trying this in a test area before removing all finish and stain and starting over. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T14:04:08.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3728" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3729" CreationDate="2016-03-28T14:19:07.510" Score="11" ViewCount="2905" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was in a boardroom and I noticed that one of the clocks had dropped off its nail and it broke the frame in two places. I assumed is was a very cheap clock made with plywood or some other engineered material. To my surprise it was laminated solid wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FbaRG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FbaRG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wood frame clock&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The repair for this seems simple enough. Just need to glue it. Issue is that I want to provide clamping pressure perpendicular to the direction of the crack. That is not easily done. Now, it would &lt;em&gt;probably&lt;/em&gt; suffice to clamp on sides (shown in the picture as the right and left sides) and get a pretty good seal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's play and pretend that this clock is something more important and I want to be sure the clamping pressure is as close the to crack as possible. How can that be done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I picture a jig of the same diameter as the circle so that it can't bow out but I wonder if there are simpler ideas. Likely this would apply as well to other things and not just circles... other polygons with a large number of sides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-03-29T00:22:00.850" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T14:56:56.483" Title="Applying clamping pressure on opposing sides of a circle" Tags="|glue|wood-repair|clamps|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3728" CreationDate="2016-03-28T14:30:44.577" Score="17" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I picture a jig of the same diameter as the circle so that it can't bow out but I wonder if there are simpler ideas. Likely this would apply as well to other things and not just circles... other polygons with a large number of sides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lots of people use ratchet straps to clamp odd shapes together:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fggss.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fggss.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ratchet straps&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/Blackie_/blog/34947&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are nice because they apply a consistent pressure around the shape and will keep it from bowing out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, one idea that might work is a clamshell-type jig where you take a square piece of plywood, cut it in half, cut out the shape of the thing you want to clamp (half on each side) and then use that to clamp the shape back together.  This would be like &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/2965/878&quot;&gt;these conduit clamps&lt;/a&gt; on a related Question here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The repair for this seems simple enough. Just need glue it. Issue is that I want to provide clamping pressure perpendicular to the direction of the crack. That is not easily done. Now, it would probably suffice to clamps on sides (shown in the picture as the right and left sides) and get a pretty good seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the size piece you're working with, clamping from opposing sides will probably be sufficient since the pieces are pretty stiff with comparison to the span.  You could put a &quot;bumper&quot; clamp next to the splits to control the tendency to bow outward too (similar to a caul for keeping table tops flat during glue-ups).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T14:36:35.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3728" CreationDate="2016-03-28T14:35:43.977" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used ratcheting band clamps on curved shapes with very good results. ( I could not find an image using the clamp on a circular form, but the principle is the same.) Rather than applying pressure in a single direction it provides uniform pressure towards the center.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pnxAE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pnxAE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Band clamps&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T14:35:43.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3731" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-29T12:34:41.653" Score="2" ViewCount="2337" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am hoping that this summer I will get time to make a roubo style workbench. Since I typically work with reclaimed materials I am going to be using top made from pine that I will be laminating. &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2338/using-softwoods-for-bench-tops&quot;&gt;Since I already know its not a bad idea&lt;/a&gt; I'm going this route for my first real woodworking bench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now likely I will not be going to crazy and will just make a leg vise with a plain flat top. I am considering just using pine for that as well as it is available to me.  If the leg vise ends up failing and the wood choice ends up being the crippling factor I can just replace it. Harder to do with a whole bench top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a handful of options worth considering though like bench dogs, hardpoints and even some other vise styles. Issue is I am making a softwood top so it will not be as hard as some of the more typical benches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I not bother with these workbench features as they might not be suited for softwood? Example being I can see a holdfast wearing out a dog hole &lt;em&gt;fairly&lt;/em&gt; quickly if used regularly. To clarify I am not concerned with the appearance but functionality of a bench with these features. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T16:47:40.993" Title="Are some workbench features not suitable for a softwood workbench?" Tags="|wood|workbench|softwood|vises|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3731" CreationDate="2016-03-29T12:49:45.867" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect that for your bench dogs, the big factor will be how thick your bench top is.  With oak I suspect you can get away with 3/4&quot; board for a while, though 2&quot; might be better.  For pine, I would say a minimum of 2&quot;, 3 would be better 4 would be very solid and last a long time (also allowing the top to be sanded flat a few times too!).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thicker the top and deeper the hole the more the twisting torque is spread out over more wood.  Thicker tops help make a more solid and stable work bench as well.  I have a book at home (haven't had a chance to read it yet) about building work benches and the different features.  I'll see if it has anything to say about this as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-04-01T16:47:40.993" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T16:47:40.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3731" CreationDate="2016-03-29T13:18:00.773" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should I not bother with these workbench features as they might not be suited for softwood? Example being I can see a holdfast wearing out a dog hole fairly quickly if used regularly. To clarify I am not concerned with the appearance but functionality of a bench with these features. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I built &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/projects/92973&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;my Roubo workbench&lt;/a&gt; out of southern pine, and I can tell you that it's holding up just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/grfrazee/blog/35996&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;holdfast holes&lt;/a&gt;, you're cocking the shaft of the holdfast against end grain for the most part, regardless of how you orient the holdfast.  End grain is pretty strong in compression, so you don't get a lot of hole deformation, even with a softer wood (FYI, balsa or basswood still might be a bad choice, but who would make a bench out of those?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same applies to dog holes.  I did mine square, so they bear directly on end grain.  The dogs themselves are made of maple.  They're holding up just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Now likely I will not be going to crazy and will just make a leg vise with a plain flat top. I am considering just using pine for that as well as it is available to me. If the leg vise ends up failing and the wood choice ends up being the crippling factor I can just replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no reason that pine won't work for a leg vise chop.  You're more concerned with the stiffness of the chop than the hardness, and pine is plenty stiff given the dimensions at play here (assuming you have a chop that's at least 1-1/2&quot; thick).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I went with hickory for my leg vise just to change things up.  I would recommend using a hardwood on any of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/grfrazee/blog/34205&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;faces of your vises&lt;/a&gt; (i.e., where the clamping force gets applied to the wood) since they will hold up longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And just to really drive the point home about pine being perfectly suitable for a workbench and having no real limitations, I'd like to mention the &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.lostartpress.com/2014/09/18/materials-tools-for-the-knockdown-nicholson-workbench/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nicholson workbench&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QCdtR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QCdtR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;nicholson&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are designed to be easy-to-make workbenches that will do any chore a woodworker needs.  You can see that the top and skirt are made of 2x stock laid flat, and they have no issues with holdfasts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bottom line, make the bench out of pine and don't worry about it.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T13:18:00.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3731" CreationDate="2016-03-29T15:22:43.967" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should I not bother with these workbench features as they might not be suited for softwood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was going to suggest in a Comment that a complete list of the features you might like to add would be useful, for replies to be as comprehensive as possible by going through them as a checklist. But actually I couldn't think of any feature that would be precluded because the top is made from softwood. In particular since you're planning a laminated top it will be very very strong and should be more stable than if made from a solid board as was the norm back in the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Example being I can see a holdfast wearing out a dog hole &lt;em&gt;fairly&lt;/em&gt; quickly if used regularly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That shouldn't be a worry. There are numerous benches out there now that have solid MDF tops and we can extrapolate usefully from those, since MDF is significantly softer and more friable than pine at the edges. Some of these benches use holdfasts of one type or another apparently without a problem. If I remember correctly what does tend make dog holes wear excessively when used with a holdfast is if they are drilled a little too large. The other major issue is if the top is too thin to properly support the locked holdfast, but that won't be a problem for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Now likely I will not be going to crazy and will just make a leg vise with a plain flat top. I am considering just using pine for that as well as it is available to me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coincidentally I happened to post a pic in the six-pack of images for &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3672/how-do-experts-make-dovetails-by-hand-that-fit-so-well/3689#3689&quot;&gt;this Answer&lt;/a&gt; a short while ago that shows a leg vice with softwood chops (faced with leather it looks like), so that's a clear example of it being used. And there are numerous other vices posted online with chops or jaws made from pine/fir/spruce. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just as an aside, there is wide disagreement in woodworking circles about the ideal material to make vice jaws from. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the one hand there's hardwood or hardwood ply, cited for strength, stiffness and durability, on the other hand others prefer to use pine or MDF specifically because they're softer — far less tendency to crush or bruise softwood or MDF project pieces. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So up to a point the woods you most commonly work in can drive the choice. If you rarely if ever work in hardwoods it could be useful to have vice jaws made from softwood (laminated for stiffness if necessary). It should be mentioned though that some woodworkers who build vices using hardwoods get around the problem (to some degree) by lining their vice jaws with leather, suede, rubber or cork. In addition to the cushioning effect these all give improved slip-resistance as well, so it's something worth considering regardless of what the vice is made from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T17:57:28.433" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3735" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-30T00:26:39.477" Score="7" ViewCount="8399" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 100 +/- year old oak dining set with chair seats that have become quite brittle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SSWkT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SSWkT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Damaged Chair&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over the years planks on the chairs have split and I have glued them back together.  At one point I added two 1/8&quot; x 1 1/4&quot; aluminum bars screwed to the underside to provide additional support, but this has had limited success and the small screws have popped out at places over time.  Recently, two seats broke and I am now seeking a better way to reinforce them.  My first thought was to provide a wood cross member support at the metal bar locations secured to be part of the seat. In this approach, the reinforcement pieces provide additional stiffness to the seat, but do not connect directly to the legs. For this reason, the stiffeners must be well attached to the seat to transfer any loads back to the seat at the corners where the seat rests on the legs.  Although this can be accomplished with continuous gluing, there is the problem with the different expansion and contraction due to grain direction of the seat and stiffeners.  If I attach the stiffeners to the seat with screws in slotted connections at each end of the stiffener, I am placing all the weight from the center of the seat on the two end screws that secure the cross member.  The seat is 7/8&quot; (or less at seat impression) thick and so a lot on load is placed on a small area of a very old oak seat where the screws penetrate.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yj6gM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yj6gM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chair Underside&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I refine this concept or is there an alternative means of support that I have not considered?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Issues raised in several answers led to adding more info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I double checked and three chairs have cracked and not one crack is at a glue line.  I added a photo of another chair to illustrate the cracking. In addition, these chairs have  been well treated.  No standing, limited use and I try to use other chairs with heavier guests.  The wood has split itself.  I believe the screws in the aluminum straps may have failed because they do not provide adequate vertical support. As the chair is loaded, the seat sags and places lateral load on the screws causing them to work loose over time (they only penetrate the wood about 1/4&quot;).  Ast Pace suggested that the triple leg braces might make the legs more resistance to movement in the seat. That's interesting, but I'm not sure how to determine if it is so and would be substantial enough to cause the wood to split.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KuFgM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KuFgM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cracks in chair&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-03-30T19:18:26.903" LastActivityDate="2017-01-25T21:53:34.253" Title="What options do I have to repair this chair?" Tags="|furniture|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3735" CreationDate="2016-03-30T05:33:49.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Certainly, the effects of wood expansion and contraction caused by changes in humidity are exacerbated by the aluminum straps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears to me that the problem with the cracking seats might also be caused by overloading.  Even a merely overweight person sitting on the seat would not cause any harm because the weight would be nicely distributed over most of the area of the seat.  However, a man of fairly normal weight standing on the chair, using it as a stool for reaching high places, might create a load that would cause the seat to break.  This would be especially true if the seat were already weakened by the stress of drying wood pulling against the unforgiving strapping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion is to remove the straps, carefully glue the seats back together, ignore cross braces for the reasons that you have already stated, and avoid overloading the chairs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big fallacy in my comments is addressing the original failing of the seats before the metal straps were installed. It seems to me that the legs would be flexible enough to allow the seat to expand and contract without cracking, but when they are triply reinforced with three rails, perhaps they are stiff enough to cause a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T05:33:49.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3735" CreationDate="2016-03-30T08:40:47.697" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the picture of the underside of the chair isn't showing currently I'm not entirely sure I have the right picture in my head about what's going on underneath, so I may revise this once the link to the pic is fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems you have multiple issues you need to address here, the first with the screws popping loose from their holes and then the bigger problem, the wood or glue lines splitting on the seat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Loose screws&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;With the screws, once the hole has begun to flake the hold is on a downward spiral if the screw is driven and removed multiple times and only a repair at the site is going to solve the problem. There most famous fix for stripped or loose screw holes is possibly inserting one or more &lt;strong&gt;matchsticks&lt;/strong&gt; (or toothpicks, or just slivers of wood) into the hole and then driving the screw back, the new wood bridging the gaps and providing something for the screw to bite into. This can work well if the stripping is light, but I think there's a limit to what it can do once the hole is really chewed up even if you do the extra measure and apply glue to the matchsticks/slivers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Covering the matchsticks with glue to help the process along points to what I think is the better fix in troublesome cases: actually filling the hole with &lt;strong&gt;filler&lt;/strong&gt;. The simplest fill is just a mix of wood glue, sawdust (actual sawing waste) and a little finer dust to fill in the smaller gaps. You can also use something like Durham's Water Putty, which can be tinted to match the wood colour if needed. Another option is to make a filler from epoxy, mixed to a stiffish paste with sanding dust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more modern version of the matchstick trick is to insert a solid-core &lt;strong&gt;copper wire&lt;/strong&gt; into the hole, then drive the screw back in. I haven't tried this myself but it seems to work very well and as it's so fast you might like to give it a shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option open to woodworkers is to drill out the hole and then glue in a dowel or wood plug. Dowels do seem to work OK in practice, but wood plugs would be preferable as the hold of screws in long grain is much greater than in end grain as on a dowel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The seats&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Despite what you've said in the Comments below in this picture at least the failure is on a glue line, it's not the wood itself cracking. This is what I'd expect, as in-service cracks along the grain on a chair seat I think would be nearly impossible with the chair used normally, i.e. assuming nobody stood in the centre of the seat to change a lightbulb. While glue joints can be &quot;as strong as the wood itself&quot; as the saying goes (actually stronger in most cases if done right) &lt;em&gt;old&lt;/em&gt; glue joints can be the weak spot and it certainly appears that this is the case here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be best to remove the seats entirely from the chairs if that's possible. Then assess every glue joint and repair any that are failing in one operation, after which you're assured the seats aren't going to fail and you can focus on the rest of the structure of the chair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the original is bonded with hide glue and if you are doing the repair with hide glue then you don't have to be that OCD about cleaning the joint faces before adding fresh glue and clamping up, although obviously remove any remaining glue of a noticeable thickness. &lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; if you warm the wood first it makes a big difference in how well hide glue bonds. This is especially important when working with it during colder months. Running a hairdryer along both joint faces prior to glue application will do the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If on the other hand you are doing the repair with any PVA-type glue (white or yellow, same deal) it doesn't matter if the chair was originally glued with hide glue, PVA or something else, the joint faces &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; be scrupulously cleaned to achieve a proper bond. If the glue doesn't have direct access to the wood an inferior bond will be formed — don't underestimate this, it's the difference between the joint being literally stronger than the wood (yes, even with oak) and being capable of splitting apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note on clamp pressure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With hide glue moderate clamp pressure should be sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With PVA glues very firm clamp pressure is the order of the day. Although you can get away with less (most woodworkers actually under-clamp) for the strongest bond to form you want to squeeze out all excess from the joint, resulting in a glue line only a thou or less.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T08:40:47.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3728" CreationDate="2016-03-30T14:56:56.483" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why not use 3 regular clamps? You could put one directly over the crack to keep it aligned and then two more crossing at about 90 degrees to push the two sides together. &#xA;Another idea is that if there is enough thickness you could use something like a bed bolt in the back of the clock to draw the cracks together and hold them while the glue sets. There would be no reason to take them out after either. &#xA;Just some thoughts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="105" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T14:56:56.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3366" CreationDate="2016-03-30T20:47:06.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dow-Corning has a product that sounds like it should do the job &lt;em&gt;Dow Corning 0S2 Silicone Cleaner and Surface Prep Solvent&lt;/em&gt;. which is a volatile methylsiloxane (VMS) fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is basically a spray-it-on, wipe-it-off procedure with more thorough instructions available at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pksupplies.com/instructions/539&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this location&lt;/a&gt;. At $14 for a spray canful it seems like it would be worth a try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;That is a bit tricky, as we don’t want to use any solvent chemicals to remove the silicone, as it could remove some of the top coat too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems like this should not be a problem since the reason for removing the silicone is to apply a new coat of paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T20:47:06.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3691" CreationDate="2016-03-30T23:05:05.397" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in a totally different place. I'd make a shelf sandwich.  Cut the OSB into strips, say 40mm in width. Obtain thin sheet metal, 2.2m x 17mm x 0.85mm. Drill a dowel hole every 100mm thru the strip steel. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/153552/8pc-Dowel-Tenon-Center-Set.aspx?&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Use locators to drill matching holes in the OSB strips.&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Cyl2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Cyl2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;dowel locator pins&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Insert the wooden dowels in each hole. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/erfu3.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/erfu3.gif&quot; alt=&quot;wooden dowels&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use epoxy to glue the whole thing up like a triple stack sandwich (bread / meat/ bread / more meat and lettuce / bread). In this case it will be OSB / strip of steel on edge/ OSB / another strip of steel / OSB (etc...)  Way strong, no screws.  Cheaper, too.  Metal held on edge in this way is quite strong. You are burying the strength inside the OSB board.  Epoxy will bond the steel to the OSB quite well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maximize the strengths of materials in the best way possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit.. You can also purchase pre-drilled steel strapping.  This would save a lot of time. Its also pretty cheap... I'm in the USA, where HomeDepot sells a ten foot long roll of this stuff (3/4&quot; wide) for $3 USD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gxQYz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gxQYz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Steel strapping.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here's a sketch of the sandwich, less holes and dowels... Can you envision the design from this?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FcKNk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FcKNk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;shelf sandwich&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="343" LastEditorUserId="343" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T17:48:13.433" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T17:48:13.433" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3677" CreationDate="2016-03-31T12:44:22.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think what your main question on this is what would be the difference be between fluorescent/incandescent and LED lights. If I were you I would go with LED lighting. My workshop is outside and using fluorescent takes a while to warm up, along with it as I am working they are picky. One flickers when I use the table saw and vacuum at the same time. When using the LEDs I had no problem because of their low power usage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The LED type I would get is a good old light bulb type. They provide plenty of light. Sometimes it can be too bright depending on the ones you get. Incandescent I have never really used so I have nothing on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, get the LED. I can almost guarantee that you will not regret as long as you get the ones that fit your expectation like brightness or warm light vs. natural light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T12:47:27.417" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T12:47:27.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3742" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3755" CreationDate="2016-03-31T12:53:23.507" Score="5" ViewCount="3243" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some router-bits that are getting dull and need to be sharpened. I have 220, 400, and 600 grit sandpaper that I could use to give a sharp edge (if possible). If I need to get higher grit sandpaper I am cool with that. I know you can do HSS (High Speed Steel) but I would like to know for carbide. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I need to get a diamond-tipped file for sharpening I will but if I can use the sandpaper that would be neat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="2073" LastEditDate="2016-11-10T12:19:02.777" LastActivityDate="2016-11-10T12:19:02.777" Title="Can I sharpen a carbide tool with sandpaper?" Tags="|sharpening|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3567" CreationDate="2016-03-31T13:08:06.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;All I do whenever I have a warped MDF board is put it down on a flat surface and weigh it down and leave it. For me that works every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T13:42:31.623" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T13:42:31.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3744" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3746" CreationDate="2016-03-31T13:14:13.967" Score="2" ViewCount="335" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if I should get a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.precisionbits.com/reversible-finger-joint-glue-joint-router-bit-1-2-shank-yonico-15131.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;glue joint router bit&lt;/a&gt; to make the glue joints. It would make it stay in place better and stronger right? What would you all think about that? All input is greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gllIl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gllIl.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T13:34:14.620" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T13:41:23.647" Title="Glue joint bit, recommended?" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3567" CreationDate="2016-03-31T13:33:41.133" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rather than laminating two pieces of MDF together which is not guaranteed to remove the warp you see I recommend you build a torsion-box style lattice structure out of straight stock and skin it on each side with your MDF.  The lattice structure is incredibly rigid and because you are building it with solid wood you can mill it to ensure consistency and flatness.  Once you fasten the MDF on top and bottom of it (glue should be sufficient) it should overcome your warping.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am assuming you are trying to make use of what you have in the shop, otherwise I maintain my recommendation but would use thinner MDF for the skin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2074" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T13:33:41.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3744" CreationDate="2016-03-31T13:41:23.647" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I was wondering if I should get a glue joint router bit to make the glue joints. It would make it stay in place better and stronger right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glue joints, when properly prepared, are at least as strong as the wood material that they are bonding.  Even a simple panel joint (two boards glued to each other along the long grain) is very strong at the joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding the &quot;fingers&quot; that this type of router bit does nothing to increase the strength of a long-grain glue joint.  These types of router bits are useful when joining end grain, like you see in a lot of manufactured furniture (IKEA, for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1jB05.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1jB05.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;finger joint&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://my.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/joinery/end-to-end/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For end grain, the fingers supply much-needed long-grain-to-long-grain glue surface, which is &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; stronger than an end-grain-to-end-grain butt joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It would make it stay in place better&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are correct, this type of router bit would help align the two boards for gluing (assuming you set everything up correctly when using the router bit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bottom line, unless you're joining end grain to end grain, you don't need one.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T13:41:23.647" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3747" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-31T14:29:38.933" Score="2" ViewCount="921" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to woodworking and have recently been given the opportunity to pick up free logs of a recently felled oak tree. (I believe logs is the proper term here, correct me if I'm wrong. Cords? Slabs?) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been on the hunt for this opportunity for a while as i have been thinking up projects that would take advantage of this opportunity. I want to make a coffee/side table with the widest piece of the trunk, bar stool seats, and maybe some bowl and spoons carving projects while its green as well as anything else i can come up with along the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concern is that i go and move all these big heavy pieces of oak only to realize that the pieces just aren't suitable for what i have in mind. I certainly don't want to waste oak just for being a foolish novice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone provide any advice or links on how to pick good large logs/slabs of lumber? Particularly relating to any project i mentioned above?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Picture of the cut tree:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mrtod.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mrtod.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;tree&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2075" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T15:26:22.543" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T02:27:58.660" Title="How to choose desirable oak slabs for projects" Tags="|wood|wood-selection|lumber|green-wood|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3747" CreationDate="2016-03-31T14:46:29.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trying my best to answer this for you. If you are looking at getting a good piece of wood I would watch the grain in the wood and knots. With knots no matter where they are can be hard/bad to cut through. Every time I use the table saw it wants to kick back while getting really hard difficult because the grain pattern around the wood can pinch the blade. So avoid those in wood unless you want them in and you simply cut around it. On the end of the wood you should look at the grain pattern as well. You can tell if it is going to warp by looking if there are more curvy grain patterns over straighter lines. Usually want to cut them into 3 inch strips, rearrange them so they do not warp, and glue, if you are getting what i am saying. I believe I covered the whole thing. By doing this it should not warp the table top and your set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T15:10:29.520" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T15:10:29.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3750" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3752" CreationDate="2016-03-31T21:34:46.323" Score="2" ViewCount="548" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen the flush trims that are either flat or normal if you will then they have some that are up-cut or down-cut. What is the main purpose with these? what makes them so special compared to a normal flush trim?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T02:49:59.157" Title="Flush trim Router bit question" Tags="|router-bit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3366" CreationDate="2016-03-31T21:48:55.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After doing some research I have came to conclude the following. Fire, or heat of some kind should be able to remove the stuff. That is the only thing I have been finding. Otherwise you may have to use those harsh chemicals but you do not want to do that so i have no idea what say on that end. And as for using something else I would try WD40. That has none of that in it and does the same thing (assuming on am on the track as you there).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="2073" LastEditDate="2016-04-01T12:36:49.227" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T12:36:49.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3750" CreationDate="2016-04-01T00:26:39.850" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key to spiral bits is in the way they handle the waste material. Flush trim bits are intended to flatten an exposed edge of a board.  The bits usually have a roller matching the diameter of the bit above or below the bit and use an edge guide or template to trace the profile of the edge on the work board.  Spiral up-cut and down-cut bits are used primarily in plunge conditions away from the edges of the project board.  They differ in the direction of their spiral twist and how they handle the waste.  Up-cut bits move the material out of the wood or up towards the router bit, while down-cut bits move the material in the opposite direction. For that reason waste tends to clog up the operational area of the wood more. So why have the options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First consider the orientation of your router.  In hand held operations the router is oriented with the bit at the bottom. If the board had a clock face and the router is lowered onto the work piece, the bit turns clockwise.  The up-cut spiral works to lift the wood disturbed by the rotating bit to turn with the rotation and lift the waste up and out. The opposite is true for down-cut bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Up-cuts are desirable for plunging deeper into a piece of wood.  The waste material is lifted out of the work area preventing clogging which can actually break a bit in a deep plunge.  Unfortunately, the lifting action of the bit will also cause fraying at the edges which can be unsightly.  Up-cut bits are often used for cutting mortises and the edges of the opening are usually covered by shoulders on the tenon piece so the fraying is not noticeable.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Down-cut bits force the material down and create a much cleaner edge.  Since they are not removing the waste it is necessary to move much slower with shallow cuts and frequent stops to remove accumulated waste. Down-cut bits are more useful for shallow dadoes or rabbets, exposed slots or grooves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2016-04-01T02:49:59.157" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T02:49:59.157" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3753" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6045" CreationDate="2016-04-01T01:38:14.400" Score="5" ViewCount="337" Body="&lt;p&gt;My father in law has a bit holder that doesn't actually allow the bit to turn unless enough pressure is applied. I've found that this helps to prevent cam out. I have not been able to find another one for sale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would anyone have an idea of what it's called and how I could find it ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately I don't have a picture of it.  It came with a Milwaukee brand drill he purchased years ago that came in a metal box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The item in question looks long ( 4 inches about ) and thin ( pencil like ) with one end for the chuck and the other for the bit.  The cylinder is smooth with no other features or adjustments like I would expect with a torque adjustable style. For a while I always thought the drill was broken because I didn't know that I had to apply pressure to get the bit to spin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2079" LastEditorUserId="2079" LastEditDate="2016-04-01T17:02:03.260" LastActivityDate="2017-06-01T19:26:53.633" Title="Looking for a specific drill bit holder that reduces cam out" Tags="|drill-bits|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3742" CreationDate="2016-04-01T10:13:37.303" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can I sharpen a carbide tool with sandpaper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without knowing exactly what kind of paper you're referring to the answer would have to be maybe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The term sandpaper is used very loosely, in addition to the many different grit types and bonding styles in various papers it can even be used by some to cover sanding materials that aren't paper-backed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some woodworking sandpaper will basically have no effect on carbide, it's much much too hard compared to the abrasive grit on the paper (quartz or flint). You can test this on the shaft of a solid-carbide burr, where you won't be able to get the paper to leave any scratches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get some traction with aluminium oxide or silicone carbide papers, although the going will be slow. These two abrasives are used in most high-end abrasive papers, cloths and films (including wet-and-dry types) and they can be used to polish carbide. If they can polish it they are 'cutting' the material so can be used for sharpening too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in general this is something that calls for diamond plates of one sort or another:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gkfS5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gkfS5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Router bit sharpening on diamond hones&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do have to be very careful about not altering the geometry of the bits and maintaining symmetry, so some more info:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/q-a-can-i-sharpen-my-router-bit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Q &amp;amp; A: Can I Sharpen My Router Bit?&lt;/a&gt; on Popular Woodworking&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/how-to/sharpening-router-bits/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sharpening Router Bits&lt;/a&gt; on Rockler&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/careandsharpeningofrouterbits.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Care and Sharpening of Router Bits&lt;/a&gt; on Highland Woodworking&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cheaper alternative to a commercial diamond plate would be to use a diamond paste applied to a flat steel plate of some kind. Diamond pastes are an inexpensive entrée to using diamonds in sharpening, particularly if you buy them directly from China. They are available in a wide range of grit sizes — commonly from 0.5 micron at the fine end to 30 or 40 micron at the coarse end (still relatively fine by abrasives standards) — and can be suspended in oil or a water. I would recommend going with the oil-based type for most users.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; the dust from carbide is considered highly toxic so it's advisable to take appropriate precautions to protect yourself from inhaling any as you're sharpening the bits and wash the sharpening media down well afterwards if not using an oily medium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T10:13:37.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3742" CreationDate="2016-04-01T11:29:51.097" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;In general: No.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Unless you buy Silicon Carbide (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicon_carbide&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SiC&lt;/a&gt;) sandpaper)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every &amp;quot;ordinary&amp;quot; sandpaper is made using either Silicon Dioxide (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicon_dioxide&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SiO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/a&gt;) or (more expensive) Aluminum Oxide (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aluminium_oxide&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Al&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;O&lt;sub&gt;3&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Mohs scale is one way of assessing hardness, its principle is &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;harder materials scratch softer ones, not vice versa&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;. Harder materials have higher numbers on the Mohs scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mohs hardness is about 9.5 for Tungston Carbide (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tungsten_carbide&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;WC&lt;/a&gt;) (give or take 0.05 depending on composition), about 9.0 for Al&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;O&lt;sub&gt;3&lt;/sub&gt;, and 7.0 for SiO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;. Which means neither of the usual sandpapers are able to work as abrasive for WC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need something with a hardness above 9.5 for being able to scratch/abrase WC, which only leaves SiC (9.6) and diamond (10.0), or Boron Nitride (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boron_nitride&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BN&lt;/a&gt;) (not available as sandpaper, more expensive than gold, and poisonous).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which means that, regardless of what anyone says or what someone shows in a youtube video, for any kind of &amp;quot;ordinary&amp;quot; sandpaper, there is no way you could use it to sharpen a WC tool.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;They are either cheating (using SiC and not telling, or not using a WC tool) or telling fairy tales. Or maybe their sharpening is placebo effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SiC sandpaper costs about twice as much as Al&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;O&lt;sub&gt;3&lt;/sub&gt; here, and the price of diamond sandpaper is decidedly in the two-digit currency per sheet range (so not really a practical option). Your mileage might vary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SiC is &lt;em&gt;just about&lt;/em&gt; hard enough for WC, but don't expect it to last long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="135" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T19:32:30.377" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3753" CreationDate="2016-04-01T13:07:46.730" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you possibly talking about a drywall screw adapter?  These have a custom set that allows it to cam out when the screw is driven deep enough, and would probably not engage the screw if you didn't have it pushed on hard enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QkFBj.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QkFBj.png&quot; alt=&quot;drywall screw adapter&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.stanleytools.co.uk/product/187481&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B005BTM4HM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;another example&lt;/a&gt; that has a spring on the back end that might fit your bill too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6wPx1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6wPx1.png&quot; alt=&quot;spring end&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T13:07:46.730" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3759" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-01T13:24:41.047" Score="2" ViewCount="299" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple days ago I had an idea for a question to embrace the spirit of April Fools day.  I wanted to write a supposedly serious question about an absurd wood project with odd, tongue in cheek, problems.  This would give viewers a chance to have some fun with clever answers. It turns out the joke was on me.  As I checked out every odd idea I had for the wood project, I found that someone had actually done it in wood!.  It then occurred to me just how great woodworking can be.  The media, wood, is kind of mundane, but the results are often incredible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that this is intended as an answer site for specific woodworking questions based on facts and avoids open ended questions, but I find the creativity in the woodworking community remarkable and couldn't resist asking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Close this if you must, but I would invite others to share their most incredible woodworking finds as answers. I've provided a couple answers to get things started.but please add more.  Don't simply post a picture, share why it inspires or amuses you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2016-04-01T13:29:40.280" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T14:31:35.187" Title="Is there nothing that can't be made from wood? (Can you top this?)" Tags="|design|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ClosedDate="2016-04-01T18:07:53.977" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3759" CreationDate="2016-04-01T13:26:35.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wood Automobiles. I remember woodies being a thing. Cars, usually trucks or wagons with wood panels applied to the side, and really great for conveying surfers to the beach.  However, these cars are something special, a marriage between love of woodcraft and the automobile. The amount of carving and freehand shaping needed is atonishing.I think Tesla should consider wood for the Tesla IV. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VvjKr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VvjKr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ukiedaily.com/blog/2012/07/ukrainian-wooden-car-for-sale/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.ukiedaily.com/blog/2012/07/ukrainian-wooden-car-for-sale/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UgLc6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UgLc6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-516687/The-worlds-wooden-supercar-faster-Porsche-Lamborghini.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-516687/The-worlds-wooden-supercar-faster-Porsche-Lamborghini.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T13:26:35.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3759" CreationDate="2016-04-01T13:28:39.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wood submarine.  Wood floats!  The idea of making a submersible expresses wit, dogged determination, and a lack of understanding of basic physics!!The question of why someone thought this was a good idea amazes me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xnF9Z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xnF9Z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.travelinginspain.com/barcelona/ictineo.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.travelinginspain.com/barcelona/ictineo.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T13:28:39.757" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3759" CreationDate="2016-04-01T13:44:40.417" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;People have done alot with wood. As for carvings, 3D cutting boards and so much more. There is tons of stuff out there to blow your mind!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UoPHU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UoPHU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://tagwoodworking.com/projects/3d-cutting-board-5/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://tagwoodworking.com/projects/3d-cutting-board-5/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1NmEo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1NmEo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://m.viator.com/photo/bangkok/floating-markets-and-bridge-on-river-kwai-tour-from-bangkok/0-8-3685BKK29C/photo.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://m.viator.com/photo/bangkok/floating-markets-and-bridge-on-river-kwai-tour-from-bangkok/0-8-3685BKK29C/photo.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stuff like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2016-04-01T14:31:35.187" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T14:31:35.187" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3763" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3790" CreationDate="2016-04-02T02:10:12.923" Score="3" ViewCount="977" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought my first thickness planer, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dewalt.com/tools/machinery-portable-thickness-planers-dw735.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;DeWalt DW735&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I received it today and, after I'd broken down and disposed of all the packaging, I noticed what looks like curvature in the mirrored surface of its platen, sort of like a dent in shiny car paint. Sure enough, I could feel some &quot;waviness&quot; when I ran my hand over it, and a second check with a level confirmed that one quadrant of the surface has a small hill that rises up to maybe 1/32&quot; - 1/16&quot; higher than the rest. The remainder is very flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this cause any difficulty in achieving good results? Or is there anything I'm not aware of about how a planer works that implies that this might not cause problems? On this model, the platen appears to be made of sheet steel that attaches to a cast aluminum base beneath it, so maybe the sheet steel has enough give that it will flatten against the pressure of the outfeed roller on the material? When I press down on the platen, it does give slightly and appears to flatten out onto the surface of the base beneath it (the flat section of the platen doesn't have any give to it, but this &quot;bubble&quot; does). Maybe the material will do the same?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought it brand new from a factory-authorized online retailer, so exchanging it is certainly an option (I've already emailed them), but it will be a pain. I can try it out and use the factory warranty if needed, or ask for a replacement base, but the platen and base are sold as a complete unit and do not appear to be user-serviceable so I doubt the latter is a viable option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1853" LastEditorUserId="1853" LastEditDate="2016-04-02T02:28:24.050" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T21:13:52.417" Title="Does a thickness planer's platen need to be absolutely flat?" Tags="|thickness-planer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3763" CreationDate="2016-04-02T09:59:29.477" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might be a factory defect by the sounds of it. I would go out and run it once to see if it does produce nice, flat boards, because it might just be there design. Otherwise get a new/different one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T09:59:29.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3766" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3768" CreationDate="2016-04-02T12:42:11.167" Score="8" ViewCount="13275" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a way to cut a handle hole into a cutting board using only hand tools. I don't have a router and would like to complete this project using what I have. Looking to do something like the handles in this image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TRpFC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TRpFC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Live edge cutting boards&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://refinedelements.com/live-edge-cutting-boards/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;refinedelements.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2087" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2020-08-19T14:35:35.143" Title="How do I cut a hole into a cutting board for a handle" Tags="|technique|hand-tools|cutting|handle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3766" CreationDate="2016-04-02T13:03:02.757" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;With hand tools only, I suppose the way is to use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coping_saw&quot;&gt;coping saw&lt;/a&gt;. You drill a small hole inside the waste of the handle, and then pass the coping saw's blade through the hole. This will allow you to remove most of the waste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To round the edge of the hole I would use a chisel for the bulk of the removal, and then sand for a comfortable edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T13:03:02.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3766" CreationDate="2016-04-02T14:30:42.327" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drill 2 holes (brace and bit if you're being serious about &quot;hand&quot; tools) with a forstner bit (or hole saw), then connect them with a cut using a coping (or jig) saw. Chisel/file/sand as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To expand a little... in order to help with tearout, drill from both sides by marking centers on each side and drilling halfway through each. Those look like 1&quot; to 1-1/4&quot; holes, if you're buying deliberately, but really, any old size should work well enough. (Bonus attribute if you're doing this with a hole saw is that the wooden plug is really easy to remove when there's half of it already sticking out of the hole saw.) Personally, I wouldn't use a spade bit, as they seem to tear a lot, which would require more cleanup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The very attractive pictures were of fairly thick stock. If your project isn't quite as thick, I'd leave a bit more meat at the edge of the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everybody has a different preference for setup with the coping saw, but if you haven't tried it already, set it up to cut on the pull stroke. You might find you have better control and less blade deflection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleanup on the inside would be easiest with a round or oval rasp, followed by something a bit finer. (You could also rough it with a sharp chisel or gouge.) After roughing, transition to sandpaper. If you roll the sandpaper into a cigarette sized roll, it'll hold shape fairly well and be able to knock down the edge to perfection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastEditorUserId="503" LastEditDate="2016-04-04T00:26:33.880" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T00:26:33.880" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3766" CreationDate="2016-04-02T16:06:33.583" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drill first and pare with a chisel would be the easiest way to remove the most material faster and you would clean up the inside edge with a paring chisel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using auger bits that are the exact width of you hole you are trying to make, like those you would see on eyed auger or bits with a brace, you can easily remove waste and not have to worry about going &quot;outside the lines&quot;. Stagger the holes and you will get a similar shape like that of the ones you have pictured. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0NNiC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0NNiC.png&quot; alt=&quot;Mortise in progress&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://ck-projects.blogspot.ca/2013/06/roubo-style-workbench-part-six.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chris' Project Page&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see from the above image (mortise in a workbench) most of the wood was removed with auger bit. The screw tip and the shape help to naturally create straight holes. Be careful when you are exiting out the other side. Either used waste wood (clamp well) or count the rotations it take until the screw just shows proud on the other side. This way you can turn the work over and have cleaner edges on the outside. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use a rasp to help put the initial curve on the handle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T16:06:33.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3773" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-03T17:50:31.370" Score="1" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to recreate something I did at college, namely, a circular plug which I can replace with a different wood. I cannot work out how to get the angle of the saw to make the plug wedge shaped to fit the hole. Hope someone can help. Pickles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2097" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-04-05T19:48:20.490" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T22:38:57.523" Title="cutting a circle wider on top than the bottom" Tags="|joinery|cutting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3774" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3779" CreationDate="2016-04-04T13:35:36.517" Score="4" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always have trouble with flush trimming. I use clamps to keep the piece in place but it gets in the way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is it better to use a table router or a hand router? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Couldn't I use some sort of double sided tape? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How much should I remove of the wood before flush trimming the other thing to it?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-04-04T13:50:20.410" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T08:26:42.963" Title="How can I improve my strategy for flush trimming with a router?" Tags="|technique|tool-selection|router|cutting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3775" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3777" CreationDate="2016-04-04T14:22:58.133" Score="5" ViewCount="2020" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over the weekend I did some basic repairs to a now lone nesting table. It is about a foot and a half by two feet wide if it matters. A leg's dowels had all broken and it was hanging loose. Also replaced two stretchers that had fallen off and were lost for the same reason. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Up until this point I had never looked at the underside of the table and was perplexed by the presence of Roman numerals on the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rmoaR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rmoaR.png&quot; alt=&quot;Numbers on table&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is interesting. I would venture that the markings are from a gouge that was gently hammered. It would appear that the mark was present before the wood was stained. I cannot come up with a logical reason why this would be there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It can't be a assembly guide. The top should be the easiest thing to identify and none of the other parts appear to be numbered in a similar manner. If this was some sort of mass manufacturing deal then you would want to match your tables to its parts. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I doubt its the table ID within the nest. They would all be of different sizes so each would be easy to identify. There likely were not 8 to start with. The first one would be for a doll house if that was the case. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This could be the manufacturers signature but seems odd as it is not a name or a company (pretty sure).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you think this is assuming it is not a personal practice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-04-04T21:37:33.497" LastActivityDate="2021-04-15T02:36:29.390" Title="Is there a generic reason to mark work with Roman numerals?" Tags="|joinery|furniture|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3773" CreationDate="2016-04-04T14:26:52.557" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are taking a dowel of some sort and want to make it, for example, 1/2&quot; at the top but more like 3/8&quot; at the bottom then this is how i would do it.Using a bit (like in the picture) to make a plug like i was talking about. I would use a table router. You would need to put a board on the guide of the router table to make it easy. The way i described would work it is just the setup you need to be worried about, and play it safe! I would take a dowel and run it by and then cut it off at the top with the table saw. Hopefully this helps! &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/01cLQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/01cLQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Yonico 15 degree chamfering bit&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T14:26:52.557" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3775" CreationDate="2016-04-04T14:33:44.213" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What do you think this is assuming it is not a personal practice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Marking mating pieces with numerals is standard practice in timber framing, at least in a historic context.  These were often called &quot;marriage marks,&quot; for obvious reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uD66w.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uD66w.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;marriage marks&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.historichouseblog.com/2013/06/24/what-do-you-call-it-carpenters-marks/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These were an easy way to identify mating components with a standard chisel, which can only make straight lines.  Chiseling out the marks would provide an easy-to-see shadow line, unlike pencil or chalk, which would be erased much easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Up until this point I had never looked at the underside of the table and was perplexed by the presence of Roman numerals on the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why these are on the bottom of your table is not entirely clear, since it appears that there is no mating piece next to the marks.  It could just be that the woodworker used the marks to identify the piece number to keep things straight in his head.  Without further context, it's really impossible to know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would guess that the woodworker had a curved gouge handy when he made the marks, hence why they're not straight, as they would be if done with a regular chisel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-04-04T14:38:48.053" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T14:38:48.053" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3778" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3787" CreationDate="2016-04-04T17:04:51.240" Score="6" ViewCount="21160" Body="&lt;p&gt;I inherited a deck with my new house.  I'm thinking about resurfacing the deck because the boards are badly discoloured, although they appear to be structurally sound.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to convince myself that purchasing a $500 thickness planer and planing 1/16&quot; or 1/32&quot; off the surface of the boards is a better use of funds than just buying new boards.  Will I have problems running 16' deck boards through a planer and will I get a nice result?  Will the pressure treated chemicals, or the years of tree muck adhered to the surface of the boards wreck the planer blades?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2100" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2016-04-05T13:58:41.350" LastActivityDate="2019-05-04T13:15:30.127" Title="Can I run pressure treated deck boards through thickness planer?" Tags="|thickness-planer|pressure-treated|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3774" CreationDate="2016-04-04T17:12:33.067" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Table vs. handheld depends on what you are trimming flush to what and whether it's easier to move the workpiece or the tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Carpet tape&quot; is the woodworking standard double-sided tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For cleanest results, minimize the amount being removed by the router; if there is too much you may have to take several progressive passes. Trimming to about 1/8&quot; short of the final shape is plenty close enough and retains some space for cutting error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T17:12:33.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3778" CreationDate="2016-04-04T17:53:19.970" Score="11" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Will I have problems running 16' deck boards through a planer and will I get a nice result?  Will the pressure treated chemicals, or the years of tree muck adhered to the surface of the boards wreck the planer blades?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of chemicals, it depends.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alkaline_copper_quaternary&quot;&gt;ACQ (Alkaline Copper Quartenary)&lt;/a&gt; treated lumber has high levels of copper, which can promote corrosion of steel (I think due to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion&quot;&gt;galvanic corrosion&lt;/a&gt; in the presence of water, which can act as an electrolyte).  The older &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chromated_copper_arsenate&quot;&gt;CCA (chromated copper arsenate)&lt;/a&gt; lumber does not have this problem.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There should be no issue running pressure-treated boards through a planer, however, if you do a little housekeeping afterward.  Give the planer a good blasting off with an air hose after you finish for the day to reduce the amount of PT sawdust left in the machine.  The ACQ chemical needs time (and water, I believe) to begin corroding the steel parts.  One day of the sawdust sitting there shouldn't really hurt anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The years of tree muck might be a bigger issue.  Hardened sap can dull planer blades pretty quickly, as will the years of accumulation of dirt and grime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possible issue is stray metal pieces embedded in the decking that you would miss with a visual inspection.  You can buy a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00005NMUN&quot;&gt;metal-detecting wand&lt;/a&gt; to try to pick these out, but that's a tedious process for the hundreds of linear feet you'll be processing as compared to just buying new stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm trying to convince myself that purchasing a $500 thickness planer and planing 1/16&quot; or 1/32&quot; off the surface of the boards is a better use of funds than just buying new boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a planer already and want one for the shop, now might be the time to get one if you can use it for this project as well.  I would be prepared to buy a set of sacrificial blades if you plan on using it for the decking since there's a very good chance they will get trashed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider also the time invested in processing the boards plus the cost of the planer vs. the cost of new boards.  Your time is valuable, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a final note, you might just try flipping the boards over to expose a &quot;fresh&quot; side.  My uncle recently did this for his deck and it worked surprisingly well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As always with all pressure-treated lumber, don't burn the waste.  The chemicals are no good for your lungs to breathe in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-04-04T18:48:11.327" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T18:48:11.327" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3778" CreationDate="2016-04-04T17:56:53.317" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mostly no, but you could. I would not because if it is treated lumber you run a risk of removing the protective layer that makes the treated lumber, well... treated. So with that said I would not. But you could take the risk because it &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; have been penetrated deep enough. The chemicals will more than likely not even hurt the planer but the muck will, so remove that! With the chemicals I would clean up the planer after use just to be safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-04-04T18:39:27.340" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T18:39:27.340" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3775" CreationDate="2016-04-04T21:43:39.923" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I doubt its the table ID within the nest. They would all be of different sizes so each would be easy to identify. There likely were not 8 to start with. The first one would be for a doll house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gee, maybe it's not Roman numeral 8, but rather 1 of 3, a likely number of nesting tables.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or perhaps it's the 8th set that the maker produced - a small shop experimenting with getting into the big time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, Matt, maybe the maker is of the same sort of person as you, recycled the wood from another project and the marks have nothing to do with the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T21:43:39.923" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3778" CreationDate="2016-04-04T22:20:27.467" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rent a floor refinishing belt sander or a large orbital sander (24in disk) and keep the boards in place and sand them down.  When you pull up those boards some will have a tendency to warp and twist which will be a nightmare to put back down straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2103" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-04-05T14:18:05.443" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T14:18:05.443" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3778" CreationDate="2016-04-04T23:30:32.897" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have actually done this for several decks. The first step after removing the boards is to pressure wash the boards, top and bottom, to remove as much accumulated dirt and debris as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check for any visible metal such as staples, tacks, etc and remove them, it also never hurts to run a strong magnet along both sides to be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stack the boards on an even surface and place cinder blocks on top of the stack(s) on both ends and in the middle to reduce bowing. Allow the wood to dry for at least 48 hours to lessen gumming issues on the planer blades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As your planing the boards make sure to blow the dust off after every 5 or 6 boards, this will help keep the blades sharper longer. You will also want to check the blades for nicks and such every 20 boards or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following these steps I have managed to plane PT deck boards for 3 to 4 decks before having to replace the blades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2104" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T23:30:32.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3778" CreationDate="2016-04-05T08:06:36.597" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A thought occurred to me. Why not use a sander? Something that has a set height or, possibly better, a set pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since sandpaper is created to be worn you don't have to worry about ruined knives. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a course grit. If the boards feel too smooth afterwards wash them with high pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without investigating what kind of cool machines there are; why not take a hand held belt sander, fasten it to something, possibly weigh it down, put some fences around and then send a board through. Make the table beneath slippery and it might even pull the board through itself.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Then take a few pictures and write a few words and feedback!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T08:06:36.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3774" CreationDate="2016-04-05T08:26:42.963" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it better to use a table router or a hand router? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ask three router users this question it's likely you'll get four answers to this. Obviously doing it either way can work and give good results, because there are people who do it each way. And as keshlam's Answer also covers the size of the workpiece is a factor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the piece is small it really calls for the router to be fixed and the workpiece to move (using push sticks to protect fingers as appropriate). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the piece is large and provides a good registration surface for the router baseplate then it's fairly easy to get good results holding the router so it can make sense to do it that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Couldn't I use some sort of double sided tape? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could, and some people have great success with it. But there's a better way: using masking tape on both pieces and applying superglue in between, see previous Answer here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2752/how-do-i-temporarily-attach-two-pieces-of-wood-together-for-machining/2757#2757&quot;&gt;How do I temporarily attach two pieces of wood together for machining?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has a few key advantages, no. 1 of which is zero slip — it's essentially impossible to get the pieces to slip. And there's nothing worse than working two pieces that are held together with double-sided and having them go out of register! Even 1/64&quot; (0.4mm) is enough to be a problem and that is well within the 'wiggle room' for some double-sided tapes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How much should I remove of the wood before flush trimming the other thing to it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no one answer to this but perhaps &lt;em&gt;as much as possible&lt;/em&gt; is the thing to keep in mind. Anything you can do to reduce the load on the router and its bit is good practice, the ubiquitous advice to prefer multiple light/shallow passes rather than doing one heavy cut is the obvious face of this advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Light passes can greatly help to improve the routed surface (skimming cuts in particular can leave a zero-tearout, finish-ready surface with a sharp bit and the right feed rate), as well helping to reduce wear on the bit and the router's bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To put some numbers on this, aim to cut to under 1/8&quot; from your finished line, and 1/16&quot; if you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T08:26:42.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3778" CreationDate="2016-04-05T09:16:29.330" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cleaning the deck is the right call here. I wouldn't in general countenance planing PT stock (or doing any other operation to it in bulk, &lt;em&gt;especially sanding&lt;/em&gt;). Yes you can protect yourself from the dust at the time you're working it but without being alarmist, every particle of it should be considered a potential toxin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pressure-washing alone can do an amazing amount to restore the original appearance of your deck boards, you can literally go from grey and filthy to like-new condition:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7YHas.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7YHas.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pressure-washing results&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Video for anyone doubting that power-washing alone can do this, &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yRstl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your boards are especially dirty and/or weathered use of one of the commercial cleaning solutions and/or 'deck brighteners', coupled with pressure-washing, is sure to sort the boards out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T09:16:29.330" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3773" CreationDate="2016-04-05T18:16:40.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a matched set of a reamer and a tenon cutter this is easy (folks like Lee Valley sell such sets). You can create pair as well; searching for Windsor chair-making tools will lead you to a few approaches. &#xA;A lathe can also make a taper and hole can be drilled straight and widen by diagonally drilling or by filing with a rat hole file. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/joinery/chair-joinery-tapered-tenons-tapered-mortises&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/joinery/chair-joinery-tapered-tenons-tapered-mortises&lt;/a&gt; shows Chris Schwartz wielding a reamer and tenon cutter to fit legs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T18:16:40.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3747" CreationDate="2016-04-05T18:35:50.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest finding a copy of R. Bruce Hoadley's Understanding Wood. He details how wood shrinks (and why logs splits radially or checks if left unattended). He also touches on how wood should dry if obtained when green/freshly cut and what part of the tree is used &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tauntonstore.com/understanding-wood-2nd-edition-r-bruce-hoadley-070490.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.tauntonstore.com/understanding-wood-2nd-edition-r-bruce-hoadley-070490.html&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/siEvM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/siEvM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally the clearest wood is above the roots and below the first of the branches. Burls can occur anywhere and can be quite beautiful. Branches are usually avoided (see reaction wood &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reaction_wood&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reaction_wood&lt;/a&gt; ) but folks have found uses for most parts. The biggest factor to note is that full circles (across the full trunk) will usually split. see &lt;a href=&quot;https://wunderwoods.wordpress.com/2014/10/19/round-cut-tops-almost-always-split/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://wunderwoods.wordpress.com/2014/10/19/round-cut-tops-almost-always-split/&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ADI0t.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ADI0t.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://wunderwoods.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/dscf6026.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;depending on how the wood is cut will determine how it will shrink. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BzOFK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BzOFK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nzffa.org.nz/assets/812/shrinkage2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.nzffa.org.nz/assets/812/shrinkage2.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T18:35:50.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3763" CreationDate="2016-04-05T21:13:52.417" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the surface isn't flat you'll end up getting snipe when your board runs off that bump. The cutter head will be removing material relative to the bed, so any defects in the bed will certainly translate into how the cutter meets the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2107" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T21:13:52.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3791" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-05T22:09:04.150" Score="4" ViewCount="318" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a large built-in bookcase system for a home office (floor to ceiling). The bookcase is black walnut plywood with poplar trim and a 1/8&quot; tempered hardboard backing.  Bookcase will be painted a low gloss white to match the trim in the rest of the house.  I'm assuming two coats of white primer followed by one or two top coats of white, with appropriate prep work between coats. I'd like to do a hand apply with a water based paint, primarily to ease cleanup. I'm not intending to use spray (no good way to deal with overspray here.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What type of water based paint makes the most sense for durability and ease of application? (Acrylic? Latex? &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.elledecor.com/home-remodeling-renovating/home-renovation/advice/a2777/different-types-paint-finishes/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Waterborne Enamel? Waterborne alkyds?&lt;/a&gt; Something else?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've got 2000 drilled holes for the adjustable shelving pins.  The holes were drilled with a plunge router with a downward cutting bit.  The holes are all crisp with no tearout, but they are slightly charred black from the process.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7mFRv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7mFRv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;charred shelf holes&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you do with regards to painting these holes?  Q-tip dip into paint, then into the hole during the initial priming? Note the holes in the attached image are shown without any post drilling sanding.  The black ring on the surface sands / scrapes off pretty easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anybody been here before?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="343" LastEditorUserId="343" LastEditDate="2016-04-05T23:23:56.990" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T11:18:54.433" Title="Painting a built in bookcase?" Tags="|paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3773" CreationDate="2016-04-05T22:38:57.523" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You didn't say how large your plug was, but I'm thinking 2&quot; or larger in diameter.  This is something wooden boat builders do every day.  This is no different in cutting out a transom for the back of a wooden boat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1jN5n.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1jN5n.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wooden Boat Transom&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this wooden boat the rear of the boat starts to narrow at the transom (that flat board at the rear of the boat.  That means the front surface of the transom is larger than the aft surface of the transom.  (Hint, same as your plug...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key lesson here is: To make woodworking easier take the time to mark up ALL CUTS on all visible surfaces of your workpiece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, you carefully mark the edge line of BOTH surfaces, top and bottom of the work.  Obviously for your plug, one circle will be a smaller diameter than circle on the other side of the workpiece.  Cut out your 'plug' to the larger diameter.  Now place the workpiece on your bench, with the smaller diameter facing up. Use a hold down to keep the work from moving. Use a sharp chisel to pare off the edge to the top line, leaving the bottom edge untouched.  Much easier than leaving blood on a power tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good for plugs from 2&quot; to 8' in diameter!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note, on that transom shown in this photo, the bevel angle varies huge around the workpiece... you've got it easy with a 'plug'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One more comment... with this method, you are not limited to circles.. you can draw any shape you want... rectangles, square, butterfly dovetail insert, etc....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="343" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T22:38:57.523" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2011" CreationDate="2016-04-05T23:17:44.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anyone advocating climb feeding needs to meet two local craftsmen who tried it.The fortunate one got patched up in a doctor's office. The less fortunate one went to the hospital and had his hand sewn to his chest for skin grafting.. I expect that they could tell you jus how &quot;safe&quot; this is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2108" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T23:17:44.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3791" CreationDate="2016-04-06T11:18:54.433" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What type of water based paint makes the most sense for durability and ease of application? (Acrylic? Latex? Waterborne Enamel? Waterborne alkyds? Something else?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. Sorry, couldn't resist. The truth is that nearly anything will work for this, from the old-school choice of milk paint to the most modern waterbased formulation. There's no need to overthink here, because this isn't a project in need of high wear resistance or with other specific performance requirement I think you should just pick the product you're most comfortable with in terms of cost and ease of application that gives the surface gloss you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of application tools I would highly recommend foam rollers for the large flat expanses, with small &lt;em&gt;synthetic&lt;/em&gt; brushes for corners and detail zones. You could use small paint pads in place of the brushes, these can work well but I've had very mixed results in how well they hold up to use and washing so I can't recommend them without reservation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What do you do with regards to painting these holes? Q-tip dip into paint, then into the hole during the initial priming? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Painting every hole would be a chore, no doubt about it and using a Q-tip to do the job is good OTB thinking on how to do it, but I wouldn't recommend it. Obviously you want to but I think it's sure to be more trouble than it's worth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly when you paint you reduce the diameter of each hole enough to make for tons of trouble with over-tight fit of the pins, making them hard to insert (even if they have a chamfered leading edge) but sometimes nearly impossible to remove. At least without resorting to pliers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if the fit is not very tight you're sure to have wear or paint lifting inside the holes if and when you move a shelf and take out its corresponding pins, which will leave visible dark brown/black peeking from those holes. Now you could touch those up each time but I presume this is something you'd want to avoid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So instead of going for your Tedium Award, Class 1 by painting each hole I suggest you get it by doing the opposite, masking off each one as you paint :-) Appropriately sized dowels, slightly tapered towards their tips, are perhaps the ideal mask here, but if you went with bare wood you'd need a large number because you won't easily be able to re-use each dowel after wiping off the wet paint without risk of slight paint transfer. So one thing you might try is making a few specifically for this by sanding your dowel lengths lightly (to reduce their diameter just a smidge) and giving them a couple of coats of shellac or varnish to seal the surface. That way the paint will wipe off much more easily and thoroughly and with luck you'll be able to re-use each one immediately without a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T11:18:54.433" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3795" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3797" CreationDate="2016-04-06T14:32:53.217" Score="2" ViewCount="919" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every time I install my table saw blade it is a little wobbly, is there a proper way to install a blade? Should I have the table saw on it's side and put it on? What am I doing wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The saw is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B002CJLUXI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rockwell Shop Series 10&quot; Table Saw&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-04-07T12:29:20.533" LastActivityDate="2016-04-07T12:29:20.533" Title="How can I stop wobbling after installing a table saw blade" Tags="|table-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1976" CreationDate="2016-04-06T15:20:34.483" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;primer &#xA;I have tried everything, I found rustolium grey aerosol primer sealer or krylon aerosol spay primer. These seem to stop the bleed through recoat with kilz primer (premium) then top coat with the color. These seal the wood from the paint. Just make sure the can states it is suitable for wood&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2111" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T15:20:34.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3795" CreationDate="2016-04-06T16:27:52.267" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a problem with the fabrication or assembly of the saw so there may not be a correct answer.  I am concerned that the saw may not be safe so I am answering this with a few recommendations on how to verify it's safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reviews of the saw on sites like Amazon are not very complementary.  If you can return it I would consider doing so.  If not...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the blade for flatness.  If you lay it on its side on a flat surface does it lie flat all around?  Try using another blade in the saw to see if it wobbles the same way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the mountings of the motor to the housing to make sure everything is secure. Tighten up everything you can.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rotate the shaft (unplugged) to see if it is bent.  If it is then the shaft must be replaced.  I can't tell from the manual whether this requires a new motor or not.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the wobble is slight, try shimming the blade as &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3795/installing-a-table-saw-blade#comment7713_3795&quot;&gt;suggested by grfrazee in his comment&lt;/a&gt;. I'm not sure how this is done so you might ask another question to get more info.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-04-07T12:27:41.347" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3800" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3802" CreationDate="2016-04-07T15:07:15.567" Score="3" ViewCount="7578" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just started using scrapers and I love them. I was looking for questions and thought I would look around the concept of pitfalls and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/common-woodworking-pitfalls-and-how-to-avoid-them.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;I read this paragraph in regards to sanding&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Sanding that makes the wood fuzzy&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some woods, such as birch, get fuzzy when you sand them too much. The fibers of the wood tear and create hairlike fuzz on the surface of the wood. You don't want to stain or topcoat wood in that condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your wood does get fuzzy, go down a grit or two with the sandpaper (120-grit is a good place to start) and sand out the little furs. The way to avoid fuzzy wood is to make sure you don't sand with a paper finer than 150 grit. &lt;strong&gt;And don't use a scraper either&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That final emphasis is mine. I get that sanding can create fuzz due to tearing. That makes sense. Scrapers are supposed to avoid that by slicing the wood instead of gouging it. Why say don't use scrapers then? Are you not suppose to use scrapers on &amp;quot;fuzzy&amp;quot; wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never use dummies.com as a solid information resource so if the information there is wrong I won't be surprised. I feel that sentence is misguided or needs to be embellished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2016-04-07T19:27:41.350" Title="Using scrapers on &quot;fuzzy&quot; woods" Tags="|wood|sanding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3800" CreationDate="2016-04-07T15:27:23.087" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say, it's not that you're not supposed to, but that it's hard for it to work out well. The scraper needs to be much more finely tuned, and the results might still be less nice than you'd get with other species. It's similar with other tools - the softer and more fuzzy, the sharper your plane and chisel edges need to be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, when faced with this problem, I applied a thin coat of poly to the fuzzy surface, then sanded it again after it has hardened..it yields a nice smooth surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://ir.library.oregonstate.edu/xmlui/bitstream/handle/1957/2525/FPL_2044ocr.pdf;jsessionid=F3095EE108D14058AEA6F7F114D0E021?sequence=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this paper&lt;/a&gt; about possible causes of fuzziness in lumber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-04-07T19:27:41.350" LastActivityDate="2016-04-07T19:27:41.350" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3800" CreationDate="2016-04-07T16:58:35.327" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;That final emphasis is mine. I get that sanding can create fuzz due to tearing. That makes sense. Scrapers are supposed to avoid that by slicing the wood instead of gouging it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes in theory, but this is a case where the wood is unusually prone to tearing so scraping can't always give the results it would otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are you not suppose to use scrapers on &quot;fuzzy&quot; wood? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on the exact circumstances as much as on the scraper — both the size and the amount of hook on the scraper can have a large effect on the success of scraping (more on this below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may have read elsewhere that softwoods shouldn't be, or &lt;em&gt;can't be&lt;/em&gt;, scraped. The reason for this is the fuzz, where the very soft earlywood on some species is  extremely prone to tearing or lifting. But as I mention in passing &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1134/what-are-the-differences-between-sanding-and-scraping/1159#1159&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; I've scraped softwoods. In fact I'd like to think I've had quite a bit of success doing it and that is partly because I won't just scrape in one way and if that doesn't work I give up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible solutions&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sand differently&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Sometimes it's not enough to sand &quot;in the direction of the grain&quot;, or parallel to the grain to put it more accurately, there are times when you want to sand &lt;em&gt;only in one direction&lt;/em&gt;. Where you're getting tearing of fibres you can sometimes get much better results sanding forwards or backwards only, and not back and forth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Variations in scraping&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Very broadly there are three edges that are used to scrape with: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;card scraper with a large, heavily turned burr (e.g. 10°)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;card scraper with a small, lightly turned burr (3-5°)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a knife edge (using an actual knife, single-edged razor, or the edge of a chisel held upright)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the same piece of wood you can notice quite a difference between scraping with each of these. As a result it's worth having all three on hand to try out when situations crop up and you're not getting the uniformly good results you expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Harden the wood surface&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I was going to mention a similar workaround/solution to the problem as aaron has already provided, in applying a light coat of finish to harden the surface wood. But in my case I would suggest either dilute shellac or lacquer (in essence, using the equivalent of many commercial 'sanding sealers' one of whose jobs is exactly this). While varnish works as well or better for this purpose shellac and lacquer dry much much faster so you can continue work on the board with far less waiting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will improve results with both sanding or scraping, but if you remove too much wood you'll expose untreated wood fibres and the problem will recur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the bottom line here is that problem areas in a given piece of wood are problem areas, and it can be difficult to deal with them 100% successfully. I'm sure nearly everyone has experienced that one patch on a board, that overall smooth-planes or scrapes well, which tears out and spoils the otherwise pristine surface. Occasionally in seems that no matter what direction you go at it the problem won't go away entirely and you eventually have to just do the best you can with it as time and the material allows, accepting it's not ending up perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally, you'll hear people express their surprise that others are having this problem much/at all in a given species that they're very familiar with, as in, &quot;I use [x species] all the time and I never experience this etc.&quot;. There's one major reason for the different experiences: wood varies.  As blindingly obvious as this is it's surprising how often it goes unacknowledged. It's not just that wood itself varies so much, local humidity (and therefore wood moisture content) obviously can be anywhere from dry as a bone to like a sauna. Last but not least whether the wood was air-dried or kiln-dried can have a marked effect on workability. Just ask fans of air-dried black walnut what they think of the kiln-dried version!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there's another major reason that often gets overlooked which can play a major role here and that is whether one guy is processing their stock by hand planing and the other using machine planing. There's almost an assumption that planed wood = planed wood, which is very much &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; the case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I never use dummies.com as a solid information resource &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's wise. But to be fair, I take that attitude with everything I hear and read in woodworking, no matter how unimpeachable the source is supposed to be :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-04-07T17:01:52.220" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3803" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-08T17:52:25.427" Score="4" ViewCount="6354" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to bind these pieces together, but &lt;strong&gt;not a permanent one&lt;/strong&gt;. I want to be able to like pop one out whenever I want. Kinda like a Lego bond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought of putting magnets on them but couldn't find a suitable one and I just can't think of any other nice solution. Any idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Idea here is to cover part of my wall with this&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I want to be able to change it over time and give it a new look&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They are only needed to be attached to each other like a brick wall in the shape you see in the picture (one going over the half of two others)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's necessary to have any extra metal or stuff used other than these pieces to be out of sight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't want to be forced to take it all apart to change the shape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MLmMl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MLmMl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1400" OwnerDisplayName="azerafati" LastEditorUserId="1400" LastEditDate="2016-04-08T18:19:36.327" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T18:08:50.737" Title="How to bind wooden pieces together, but detachable" Tags="|wood|design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3803" CreationDate="2016-04-08T18:29:56.280" Score="9" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You could try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.knex.com/products/lincoln-logs/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lincoln Log™&lt;/a&gt; style&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A nice DIY write up at &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/SPalm/blog/42826&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lumberjocks&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At least they are still made of wood.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You could use round magnets like those found &lt;a href=&quot;https://wondertrail.com/hobby-supplies-en/magnets/macnsn0657-1-4-x-1-16-magnets-dics-by-magcraft.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You'd want to make the hole with a Forstner bit, and hold them in with epoxy. I'd suggest keeping the magnets away from each other until the epoxy has completely set to ensure they don't pull each other out of their holes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://wondertrail.com/images/detailed/28/MACNSN0657.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://wondertrail.com/images/detailed/28/MACNSN0657.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://wondertrail.com/images/detailed/28/MACNSN0657.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You could try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.knex.com/products/tinkertoy/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tinker Toy™&lt;/a&gt; style and make or buy the small connecting dowels.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On a sad note, it seems that Tinker Toys are now made out of plastic instead of wood. I'd vote for this option simply for nostalgia's sake.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:50.490" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T04:35:09.563" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3805" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3928" CreationDate="2016-04-08T18:30:42.450" Score="1" ViewCount="4567" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm attempting to build a set of reclining beach chairs for my in-laws, but I can't identify the mechanism that's used on the arms to recline the back. Google searching hasn't been very helpful (all I can find are the chairs themselves, no parts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the mechanism, it seems like I could fabricate one at home, but it would be pretty tedious. Does anyone know what this thing is called? Or better yet, where I can find them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eOniu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eOniu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;One&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fLrs3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fLrs3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;two&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2024-02-26T15:10:55.073" LastActivityDate="2024-02-26T15:10:55.073" Title="Beach chair reclining arm mechanism" Tags="|fasteners|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="17" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3805" CreationDate="2016-04-08T18:41:38.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's easier to make a T-slot on the underside that a T slides in. To lock it down you create grooves crosswise so when the armrest is pushed down it'll hold the weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T18:41:38.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3807" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-08T20:24:59.233" Score="6" ViewCount="4441" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now and then when turning I get holes and voids in my project.  The pictures below had a branch going through the blank and popped out leaving a large hole to deal with.  The hole is ~1&quot; in diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen people use epoxy and other products to fill these up and sometimes sprinkle colors in them to make them stand out.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question, what products are available for this type of filler.  They would need to be soft enough to not damage turning tools since I would need to finish turning the bowl afterword.  It should also be food safe. And it would be nice to be easy to work with.  So what are my options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/imj4b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bowl with hole&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3UDib.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3UDib.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-04-09T04:41:26.650" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T11:38:24.943" Title="Large hole filler products, what is available" Tags="|wood-repair|turning|toxicity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3803" CreationDate="2016-04-08T20:39:48.723" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing that comes to my mind is to use wide horizontal velcro strips on the back of each block and mate them with vertical velcro straps.  You can easily change the arrangement .  Only a few key blocks will need to have picture hangers to attach to the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T20:39:48.723" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3807" CreationDate="2016-04-09T11:38:24.943" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would use filled epoxy for this, it's probably the best thing going as it's very tough, bonds very firmly to the wood and can be extremely cheap. Possibly best of all you make as much as you need when you need it without any worries of buying more of a product than a single project needs and having the rest go off sitting on the shelf &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once fully set epoxy fills respond very well to working with sharp tools and in should sand excellently too (although it can end up &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; hard, much harder than the surrounding wood).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use any type of epoxy, from the cheap stuff in the dollar store to an expensive 'epoxy system' such as those sold by West Systems and others. They all seem to work about as well. When doing a large fill a longer setting time can be advantageous — especially in warm weather! — but even for a fill of this size I've used 5-minute epoxy and had plenty of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speaking informally when this is recommended people usually just say to use sawdust, and literally sawing dust mixed with epoxy can actually work fine even though it can be relatively coarse. But if you want a very smooth finish and a more uniform colour use the finest dust you have available. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In boatbuilding where filled epoxy is used widely as a construction material it's not uncommon to buy commercial &lt;strong&gt;wood flour&lt;/strong&gt; for this purpose, but sanding dusts from an ROS are generally fine and work about as well, especially if created from paper finer than 180. I've had pretty good results using the dust from a worn 80-grit belt so you don't have to be too fussy about this though!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Method&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Blend the epoxy together first, to ensure it is properly mixed, then mix in the dust. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can mix in just enough dust to colour, the often-cited &quot;peanut butter&quot; texture (literally looks like peanut butter if the wood dust is the right colour) or much denser than this, a paste stiffer than spackle/patching plaster. They all work fine in the right context, what'll suit best is partly up to you and partly dependent on the nature of the void being filled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a through-hole like this, using a mix of any sort of liquid consistency you'll want to back the hole with tape to stop it simply running out the other side of the hole. Masking tape or painter's tape are usually used but plastic packing tape also works excellently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other fillers and colouring agents&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;To colour only:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;oil paint&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;enamel paint&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dry pigment (glow-in-the-dark powders are currently quite popular)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;alcohol-based wood dyes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be cautious about adding too much of any of these or you'll severely compromise the strength of the epoxy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tinted epoxy looks great but in general you'll get a stronger fill when you fill the epoxy with some type of dry dust. Nearly anything can work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sawdust&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sanding dust&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wood flour &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;metal powders&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;talc (also used as an additive, to improve sandability as it's very soft and lubricant)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;microballoons&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fumed silica (also used just as a thickener)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;plaster of Paris or other types of dry plaster&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;crushed stones (turquoise is currently very popular)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;coffee grounds (my preference is used, and very thoroughly dried)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wheat flour&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cornstarch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those last few are not jokes!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I happened to be reading this just yesterday, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/coffee.html&quot;&gt;using epoxy and coffee grounds&lt;/a&gt; to fill voids on turned bowls, on  Doc Green's Woodturning Site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note this from the above link: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Generally speaking, I wait at least two hours before I attempt to sand the filled area.  A delay of four hours is better; and overnight is better still.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It should also be food safe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a contentious issue in woodworking circles. What one person considers food-safe another will not, a great example being thinned varnish (some versions of &quot;salad bowl finish&quot; are just this) which some refuse to use even for the stated purpose, but which others are comfortable to use on a cutting board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nature of the food contact can be considered an important factor as well, what's OK for incidental food contact (such as you'd get on a kitchen table) is not necessarily the same as with a food-preparation surface where raw food will routinely be in contact with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a general rule, any finish that dries/cured hard can be considered food safe &lt;em&gt;once fully dried or cured&lt;/em&gt;. Any toxic ingredients (and there can be some, usually in minute quantities) are safely locked away in the matrix of the hardened finish. This includes heavy-metal driers in some wood finishes, e.g. BLO and varnishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now what about epoxy? With wet starting products are most definitely not safe, at the least they are irritants and you do want to be careful to clean off any accidental contact when using it. But once properly mixed and fully cured epoxy is generally believed to be utterly safe, safe enough that it can be used to coat wooden drinking vessels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I think it's perfectly fine for something like this myself but your mileage may vary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T11:38:24.943" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3810" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3814" CreationDate="2016-04-09T12:33:04.110" Score="13" ViewCount="7831" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm designing a cabinet with drawers and I would like to use 60mm (roughly 2 and 3/8&quot;) wide beams for the frame. The frame with one side panel visible looks like that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://cl.ly/3F0A2a1c0L2Z/Image%202016-04-09%20at%2010.21.56%20am.png&quot; alt=&quot;cabinet frame&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to use mortise and tenon joints as they seem like a simplest solution and are relatively easy to cut. The problem is I'm not sure how to size them. You can find multiple rules for such joints in the internet, one of them being (this is from Christopher Schwarz):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tenon's thickness should be one third the thickness of the stock being mortised&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tenon's length should be 5 times its thickness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tenon's width should be half the width of the stock you're cutting it in&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't make a lot of sense in my situation, because one third of 60mm is 20mm and 5 times that is 100mm, which is longer then the beam width. And even if the beam was wider there won't be as much place, because there will be 2 horizontal beams connected to the vertical beam. I found three simple ways to do the joint in such situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Making ends of both tenons slanted:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4bjeP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4bjeP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Cutting a through dado in one of the tenons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/juHp7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/juHp7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) A variation of the second joint:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yRinB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yRinB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would any of these joints be suitable for the situation? What would be best proportions then? I can't find any good source of information on joining beams in such a way. If any other type of joint (dovetail?) is more suitable for such situation, I'd love to hear about it too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2114" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:50.503" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T17:44:10.880" Title="Mortise and tenon joint proportions for 3 wooden beams corner" Tags="|joinery|furniture|design|mortise-and-tenon|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3810" CreationDate="2016-04-09T14:21:53.673" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would  try to keep the geometry of the tenons as simple as possible. The important thing is to maximize the contact surface between the side grain surfaces in the glued joint.  Since your making a cabinet base you need not totally conceal the connection (I assume you have a top counter surface over the base).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wXrpw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wXrpw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mortise &amp;amp; tenon connection&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each tenon is half the height of the beam depth.  The top one will be exposed at top of the column member and the bottom tenon will be fully embedded.  They will be glued to each other and to the column inside the mortise.  The width of the tenons is not critical other than you want to create as much contact surface as possible and the vertical side surfaces of the tenons should provide plenty.  I would keep the surfaces of the tenon, both sides and ends, at least 1/2&quot; from the exterior face of the columns to insure adequate strength in the column member.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T14:21:53.673" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3810" CreationDate="2016-04-09T14:27:00.503" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given what you are designed you might be over thinking this. Each of those tenon designs would suffice. The last two would end you with a nice outward appearance. If aesthetics is important to you then I would consider the latter two. The last one you have with lapped tenons would be the most difficult to cut but still feasible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why I don't think this matters is that you are building a cabinet with drawers. The should not be an excessive about of weight on this unit that would warrant anything other than the mitered tenons you show. Assuming you are going to put a top on this that would also distribute any weight present. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I am incorrect or weight is a concern that I would also &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/3811/128&quot;&gt;consider Ashlar's answer&lt;/a&gt; as it is very simple and would mitigate that better.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T14:27:00.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3810" CreationDate="2016-04-09T20:04:20.513" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This doesn't make a lot of sense in my situation, because one third of 60mm is 20mm and 5 times that is 100mm, which is longer then the beam width. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's important to remember that these, as in &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; similar general guidelines about how to size a joint, are just rules of thumb and no rule of thumb needs to be followed slavishly. That's what makes it a rule of thumb, and not a Rule :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also worth pointing out that most traditionally joinery in cabinetry is actually over-engineered, resulting in individual joints that are much stronger than truly needed. This is no bad thing for longevity, but where you're not making something to last for a century or longer you can make certain concessions and not suffer any penalty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regard to mortise-and-tenons joints specifically, these are inherently strong, and you can definitely use very different proportions for the tenon and achieve a strong joint — just look at stub tenons for example, the length can be as little as 1/5 that suggested! Just to clarify, this isn't to be &lt;em&gt;preferred&lt;/em&gt;, but it does show the kind of thing you can get away with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also worth comparing those proportions to dominoes and even biscuits, which are a simulation of M&amp;amp;T joinery without the need to actually cut tenons. These are in the main shorter (sometimes &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; shorter) and often thinner than a tenon or a pair of tenons would be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I found three simple ways to do the joint in such situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of the three options shown I would go with #1 in the sense of having the mitred ends, from my reading that would be by far the most common solution. However, I wouldn't necessarily use a small, square tenon. It would be better to have the tenon like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2e5Eg.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2e5Eg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mitred meeting tenons&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Source: &lt;strong&gt;The Joint Book&lt;/strong&gt; by Terrie Noll]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I think most common traditionally (or at least most commonly recommended in texts) would be to use haunched tenons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gbJVG.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gbJVG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Haunched meeting tenons&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously these are much more effort to cut and like I refer to above are likely to be an example of over-engineering. I include them here more for completeness rather than as an actual recommendation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If any other type of joint (dovetail?) is more suitable for such situation, I'd love to hear about it too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could in theory at least use a dovetailed housing joint (short dovetailed tenons at the end of each rail, with a matching housing or dado in the corner post). I've seen it done once or twice but I couldn't locate an image. Again this would be more work to create than the simple mitred tenon shown first and probably provides no real benefit at the end of the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T20:04:20.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3747" CreationDate="2016-04-10T02:27:58.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's pretty simple, at least to start with; find pieces with minimal cracking and splitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have the wood, you have to dry it because it will be moist. It will have a strong sappy odor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to dry it is to cut off all the bark, then seal the ends with &quot;lumber sealer&quot;. You want all the moisture to escape only radially, not through the ends. It will take about 2 years for the wood to dry and then it will be ready for use. If you put the wood out on sunny days it will dry faster, but do not let it get rained on. If you put the lumber out in the sun, rotate it every 30 minutes so it gets evenly heated. Do not allow one side to get hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are thinking two years is a long time, that is the price of good lumber and why good hardwood is expensive: the drying. Commercial lumber is kiln dried which damages the wood and makes it inferior compared to air dried, aged lumber. Green lumber is MUCH cheaper than dried lumber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remember the first time I bought green lumber, which was a bunch of white oak beams I bought. The lady says, that will be eighty-one, sixty-seven please. I was like, wow, the beams are nice but $8000 seems like a lot (I had been expecting about $1000). She answered, no, $81 dollars and 67 cents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T02:27:58.660" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3817" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-10T21:10:53.603" Score="4" ViewCount="10519" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like pocket holes as it is a simple and easy method of joinery. I ran into &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ana-white.com/2012/11/plans/farmhouse-table-updated-pocket-hole-plans&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;plans for a farmhouse table&lt;/a&gt; that is nearly solely built with pocket holes. The following is the step where the table top is made. This showcases the use of pocket holes and the top's overall design. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ana-white.com/2012/11/plans/farmhouse-table-updated-pocket-hole-plans&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Drnhe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Table top plan&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ana-white.com/2012/11/plans/farmhouse-table-updated-pocket-hole-plans&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ana-white.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I have seen in several places warnings in regards to breadboards and several suggestions to mitigate inevitable wood movement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this design begging for future problems? Are those problems minor and the top should be just fine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2018-02-07T16:13:47.467" LastActivityDate="2018-02-07T21:48:07.483" Title="Is making a breadboard table top using just pocket joinery asking for future problems?" Tags="|joinery|furniture|wood|design|wood-movement|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3817" CreationDate="2016-04-10T23:46:13.990" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Expansion/contraction-wise, I do not believe that securing of the five boards running end to end will cause a problem. This is basically the same condition as if they were glued together, their primary movement will be to expand and contract towards and away from the center to the sides of the table top. A problem could arise where the breadboards are secured to the ends of the table top boards. Since the table top and the breadboards at each end are oriented perpendicular, their movements will oppose each other. (Boards expand along their length at a much smaller rate than across their width or height)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Breadboards are basically secured firmly to the top only at the center.  The boards at each side of the center are held in place vertically in a keyway (or by using biscuits etc.) and allowed to slide in the breadboard to and from the sides.  The ends of the breadboard are secured to the table with screws in slotted openings so that some lateral movement is still possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to work well, the expansion of the table top boards must be accommodated within the individual pocket holes of the breadboard. The center of the breadboard is firmly affixed to the breadboard and movement occurs towards the sides.  In fact the maximum movement occurs at the outside edges. The total expansion across the top will be from the center to each edge or approx. 19&quot; of wood width.  Figuring a little conservatively the expected expansion here would be 14&quot; x 5 (percentage range of moisture variation) x .003 (expansion coefficient from wood tables online) = .21&quot; or slightly less than a quarter inch on each side (nearly 1/2&quot; across the width).  That means that the pocket hole at the outside edges must allow for up to 1/4&quot; of movement in the hole in the breadboard, which is a lot. Note that the breadboard edges must be long enough to absorb this width expansion. Now the screws at the sides will be able to turn at an angle within the pocket hole in the breadboard, but the movement at the edges will be enough to shift the shaft of the screw beyond the edge of each pocket opening. If the screw strikes the side of the pocket hole it will resist further shifts as the top expands. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other considerations that might help the detail include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a wood type with lower expansion coefficient than .003,  The table below is taken from popular woodworking.com at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/tricks/how-to-calculate-wood-shrinkage-and-expansion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt;.  Note that Q/S is the coefficient across the growth rings and F/S is with the rings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8gB7Y.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8gB7Y.png&quot; alt=&quot;Wood Table&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The humidity differential of 5% reflects a total variation in humidity expected in its final location.  If it is going to be in an air conditioned environment  it may have lower variations.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do not assemble the table when humidity is at the highest or lowest points. This will maximize the overall expansion and contraction.  If it is assembled at its middle range it will still have the overall movement calculated, but only half in each direction.  In our calculations above this would result in a movement of 1/8&quot; each way at the sides of the table.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also keep in mind that the movement range occurs seasonally and the joints will have a tendency to work further loose over time.  Screws in the wood will not provide as good a connection as a traditional breadboard detail.  In addition the screws will not resist the tendency of the top to warp and curl as well.  The slotted connection of a traditional breadboard provides continuous alignment of each board in the top.  The screws can only hold alignment at screw locations so cupping of individual boards in the top will eventually show themselves.  That is unless you provide a slotted groove in the breadboard and tongues in the top board edges.  In that case you are almost all the way to a proper breadboard anyways, so why not complete it as such?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T23:46:13.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3817" CreationDate="2016-04-11T01:55:04.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is this design begging for future problems? Are those problems minor and the top should be just fine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked at this design for a while, wrestling with the usual concerns about breadboard construction (crosswise expansions putting undue stress every which way), and concluded that the answer to your question is, not necessarily.  I think that if you assemble the table with the knowledge that the boards are going to change in width due to changes in humidity, you can make this table so that it will not tear itself apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make it in late summer when the humidity is high and the boards are going to be at their maximum width.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attach each lengthwise board to the breadboard ends with only one screw at each end.  This allows each board to shrink without putting any stress on itself or its connections.  It's only going to get narrower than when it was built.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do not drive the screws that hold the lengthwise boards to one another all the way in.  When the boards shrink a small gap will open between the boards, but screws will keep the boards aligned.  The only function of those boards is to maintain alignment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice the picture of the completed table that accompanied the plan.  The near breadboard end is sagging and if you try to rely on the pocket screws without supporting the ends, the screws will most certainly bend and allow the breadboard end to sag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You end up with a table with sagging ends, visible slits between the boards (makes clearing crumbs real easy).  However, recognizing that it is meant to be a rustic appearing piece of furniture, put a checkered tablecloth on it and love it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-04-11T21:52:12.093" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T21:52:12.093" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3820" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-11T14:16:52.117" Score="6" ViewCount="11127" Body="&lt;p&gt;My uncle gave me a set or carving gouges and chisels that he was not going to use anymore. They need to be cleaned as they have a little bit of rust on them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More importantly they look like they could use a sharpening before I start using them. Based on other questions I have a good grasp of how to sharpen flat tools but how does that play out with curved tools? The blades of moudling planes come to mind as well. Some of them have very complex forms. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What tips and tricks do I need to know when sharpening curved edge tools? I don't want to have to remove too much material to make up for mistakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't feel this question really covers this topic: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/124/how-to-hand-sharpen-a-badly-worn-gouge&quot;&gt;How to hand-sharpen a badly worn gouge?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2018-08-07T11:06:03.773" Title="How do I sharpen curved tools like gouges?" Tags="|sharpening|chisel|gouge|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3820" CreationDate="2016-04-11T16:32:15.887" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually tools like gouges are sharpened using a very fine grinding wheel. There are lots of different jigs usually sold to keep the angle consistent while rotating the tool. As with sharpening of flat tools, your mileage will vary if sharpening freehand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also create your own jigs for keeping the angle consistent against the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: For smaller gouges, like you'd use for carving, you ought to be able to find sharpening stones at specialty woodworking supplies which are actually grooved to match the profile on the gouge as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2107" LastEditorUserId="2107" LastEditDate="2016-04-11T17:14:39.640" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T17:14:39.640" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3820" CreationDate="2016-04-11T20:01:53.480" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How do I sharpen curved tools like gouges?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very carefully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the obvious things of striving to maintain the bevel angle(s) and the shape of the cutting edge (many have a curved profile) the conventional advice is to be extremely careful not to put a tiny bevel on the opposite side to the main bevel, the reason given that it can hamper getting a good edge in future sharpenings. Not always stated is that it also changes how the tool will work as it alters the angle at which the edge will bite into the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for an out-cannel gouge, one with bevel on the outside, which most (all?) carving gouges are, the slipstone or whatever that you use to remove the burr on the inside of the edge should be kept completely flat to the interior hollow if sharpening conventionally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;More importantly they look like they could use a sharpening before I start using them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there's any rust at all on the edges, which is very likely, they will definitely need a sharpen before use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gouges need to be at least as sharp as normal chisels to work well (i.e. sharper than you need to get a plane iron usually) as they are routinely called upon to cut wood across the grain, with the resultant risk of tearout if the cutting edge isn't quite up to snuff. You want the edge at minimum shaving-sharp if you can manage it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Method&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I'm going to describe an entirely manual method. You can use a grinder to sharpen a gouge but I would be extremely careful about doing this with any high-speed grinder, no matter how fine the wheel fitted is. It's very easy to inadvertently change the shape of a curved edge (you can do it easily enough just sharpening by hand!) and when this happens you'll have the devil of a time fixing it as it involves grinding back the entire edge until it has returned to the right profile. Doing it manually is lots slower, but much more controllable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do most of the sharpening of gouges on the same abrasive paper, stones or diamond plates that you sharpen your regular chisels on, although with many waterstones you do have to exercise great caution to spread the wear as they dish so easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The technique is very different to a normal chisel however. There are some variations but a lot of people eventually end up doing some form of sweeping of the edge across the abrasive as they roll the tool, while moving it backwards and forwards (or just in using a pull or push action). This can amount to doing a figure-eight motion on the stone, which actually some guides recommend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also do it just by rolling the bevel on the abrasive as you move the blade back and forth sideways. This is by far the easier method IMO, although you should try some variations and see which motion your hands prefer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You work the bevel until you can feel a burr along the entire of the edge on the inside, then the next step turns it back over starting the process of removing it. You may need to turn the burr over onto the bevel, then back, rinse and repeat a few times until it's so small that it separates from the edge or just seems to disappear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your gouges are basically sharp but just need a touchup don't bother with a coarse or even medium stone, use something quite fine. As long as it'll turn a noticeable burr onto the opposite side of the edge that's fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to your main sharpening stuff you'll need one or two bits of specialist gear to remove that burr to complete sharpening of a gouge. This can be any one of the following or a combination:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a curved-edge fine slipstone;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a round ceramic rod;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a dowel with fine abrasive paper wrapped around it (can be glued in place if you want to make a semi-permanent tool);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a dowel with some type of honing compound spread on it;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a wooden block cut by the gouge itself* charged with honing compound;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a fold of tough leather, either bare or charged with honing compound.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these are generally used by stroking out from the edge (i.e. the tool is pulled relative to whatever you're using) but with any of the strops this is a must-do as otherwise the tool can dig in and ruin the strop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have sharpened once you can repeat the same process to get the edge back every time, but it's much better to strop to maintain your edge. This way a gouge is nearly never sharpened per se, but instead honed again and again which is much easier and faster. Particularly if you are careful not to leave the interval between edge touchups grow too long this can be done for an extended period, certainly many months, before you might need to sharpen again on your stones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think far and away the best system to strop the bevel is to use the gouge to cut its own hone profile into a block of wood. This means it's the exact shape it needs to be, not a close approximation as you'd usually be using if you'd bought a commercial honing block. Plus it will be basically free, which is always nice :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q19eT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q19eT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shop-made gouge honing blocks&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*To work the inside of the gouge, you can again use the tool itself to make the convex surface needed, but you may prefer to use the method shown in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/make-convex-sharpening-forms-for-round-edge-tools&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article on Popular Woodworking from Yoav Liberman&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T20:01:53.480" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3823" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3824" CreationDate="2016-04-11T23:59:46.740" Score="11" ViewCount="1002" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of different tools from saw blades to router bits use different carbide &quot;C&quot; grades. I read and there are types like C2, C3, K10. What is the difference between all these? A description on each would be great if there is a difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-04-12T11:50:52.553" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T11:50:52.553" Title="Tungsten Carbide grades" Tags="|power-tools|tool-selection|cutting|carbide|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3823" CreationDate="2016-04-12T00:57:18.453" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regarding C1, C2, ... C6 carbide grades, higher numbers mean harder, but at the same time more brittle. C1 carbide cuts softer metals like aluminum and C6 carbide cuts hardest metals like steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is important for woodworking is that the carbide grade doesn't make much difference when cutting wood, if any. I tend to prefer lower carbide grades, because if I drop a router bit or a saw blade accidentally, it is more likely to survive the impact, because the cutters are less brittle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2123" LastEditorUserId="2123" LastEditDate="2016-04-12T01:25:44.653" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T01:25:44.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3825" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-12T17:55:52.200" Score="8" ViewCount="1705" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to using a table saw and recently bought an inexpensive Craftsman saw since I'm a DIYer and don't use a saw often. It came with 3 devices to install over the blade for safety - splitter, etc. Yet in YouTube videos most users don't use these safety features. Is there a good reason why they don't?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2118" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T03:11:27.520" Title="Table saw safety devices" Tags="|safety|table-saw|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3825" CreationDate="2016-04-12T18:04:32.860" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably the most applicable reason in the case of YouTube videos is that these devices get in the way of the video and make it difficult to see what the operator is doing.  I think it would be rare to see someone without a riving knife, but skipping the full splitter and blade guard is pretty common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, you won’t see a lot of people wear dust masks or respirators in videos either, again only for looks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are new to the space, stick with the provided safety devices until such a time you can make an educated decision on your own as to if you wish to exclude them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T18:04:32.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3825" CreationDate="2016-04-12T18:32:44.587" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Yet in YouTube videos most users don't use these safety features. Is there a good reason why they don't?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Particularly on professionally-made video, the safety devices are sometimes removed for the purposes of photography to show how the saw blade is making the cut, and they can shoot from various positions that would otherwise have had that angle of view blocked. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, that doesn't describe the situation in most YouTube vids. I'll be blunt here, some of this will be complacency or a refusal to accept the reality that table saws are dangerous on the part of those woodworkers, the &quot;It'll never happen to me.&quot; attitude. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of it is also just down to laziness — they take guard off for one job and don't routinely put it back in place... and, um, sometimes never put it back :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do have to remove the blade guard for certain operations, using a cross-cut sled is probably the best example. See more on these very useful jigs here if you're interested, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2308/how-can-i-cut-a-90-degree-angle-with-a-table-saw&quot;&gt;How can I cut a 90 degree angle with a table saw?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The splitter, also called a riving knife, is a simple but extremely effective means to help prevent what's called kickback (note: not 100% effective). This can happen for a number of reasons, one is if the kerf you just cut in the piece of wood closes up and pinches onto the saw blade, sometimes just due to flex in the workpiece (can happen with plywood for example) and sometimes due to released internal tension in the wood. Google &lt;strong&gt;case hardening&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;reaction wood&lt;/strong&gt; for more on why wood can move once cut. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When kickback happens the workpiece is ejected at high speed (more than 100mph) and if you're standing in line with the blade, potentially causing serious injury. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People who have been careful enough to be standing off to one side of their table saw when doing cuts that have a greater potential for kickback and it has occurred tell sobering tales of the almost unbelievable force with which the wood can be flung across the workshop. It doesn't take much imagination to picture what might have happened if the user had been hit, but it literally can lead to internal injuries if the torso is struck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read more about kickback here, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.raygirling.com/kickback.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tablesaw Kickback - The Nightmare Explained&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://hackaday.com/2013/10/23/table-saw-kickback-video-ends-badly/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tablesaw kickback video ends badly&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T18:32:44.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3825" CreationDate="2016-04-12T21:26:24.377" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think some people do not use splitters because they have points that can mar the wood. I use splitters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not normally use the top guard. The top guard is there I think to prevent a situation where you would slip and fall onto the blade. The problem is that the top guard is very cumbersome and gets in the way. Personally I think the top guard is more likely to cause an accident than prevent one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anytime you have some cumbersome device that will cause fumbling and fooling around or weird gyrations to use, you have a situation where the device is likely doing more harm than good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always use a push stick on any cut under 2&quot; in width and often a full hold down, not so much for safety, but because it helps me get a clean, accurate cut. The extra safety is just a side benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, manufacturer-provided guards are just half-measures that do not really protect you. You have to go way beyond those gimmicks and think: what procedures and tools do I need to use to make my operation safe? And the answer to that question will be different depending on what operations you are doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T21:26:24.377" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3825" CreationDate="2016-04-13T03:11:27.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recall a Craftsman table saw where the guard assembly was so awful and difficult to put on the first time that after taking it off I &lt;em&gt;knew&lt;/em&gt; it wasn't going back on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are safety devices and accessories that are more subtle in appearance.  You can get tiny splitters that you might not notice at all if you were not looking, sprouting from the clearance plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For anti-kickback, rollers that ratchet to only turn one way, attached to the fence are great for ripping things where the fense is near the blade. You may see that and not realize it's both a hold-down &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; an anti kick device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cover over the blade does nothing to stop your hand from feeding into it. As with the board passing under, so will anything pushing.  I think some of these things sold with cheap saws at least are more about corporate CYA than effective usefulness!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best safety devices are pusher sticks, proper posture and motion for the cut, and a lack of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="315" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T03:11:27.520" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3830" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-13T10:35:31.997" Score="5" ViewCount="1632" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the photograph the machine has a silver edge on the outer panels, but I have seen it in all colours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I achieve the same effect with my panels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wHxM8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wHxM8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chrome banded arcade machine&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.costco.co.uk/view/p/arcade-overload-classic-upright-arcade-machine-159031&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Costco.co.uk&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2130" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T19:47:32.623" Title="How can I get this effect and what is it called?" Tags="|trim|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3830" CreationDate="2016-04-13T12:59:20.707" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A cursory search comes up with T-Moulding. Knowing that I can then find pseudo chrome T-moulding for arcade cabinets. Not advocating any particular product but showcasing an example. The one pictured in your question is &lt;em&gt;likely&lt;/em&gt; plastic to help it conform to the curves of the case however I could be wrong. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JJU92.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JJU92.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/bhp/arcade-t-molding&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;eBay search result&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should be easy enough to install by using a slot cutter and a router. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L4Q5am.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L4Q5am.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/power-tool-accessories/router-bits/slot-cutting-router-bits&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rockler.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.coldbeamgames.com/blog/i-built-an-arcade-cabinet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;You can look at a blog post about a user doing just that.&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-04-13T19:47:32.623" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T19:47:32.623" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3830" CreationDate="2016-04-13T13:03:28.820" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=metallic+edge+banding&amp;amp;ie=utf-8&amp;amp;oe=utf-8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Google search&lt;/a&gt; for &quot;metalic edge banding&quot; comes up with several options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is the flat, &lt;a href=&quot;https://edgecoinc.com/metallic/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;glue on&lt;/a&gt; style that goes on like any other wood based edging:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://edgecoinc.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/metallic.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://edgecoinc.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/metallic.png&quot; alt=&quot;https://edgecoinc.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/metallic.png&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;sup&gt;From edgecoinc.com&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also aluminum (or other metal) &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aluminumsys.com/edge-banding-for-cabinet-doors-aluminum-edge-banding-metal-edge-banding-for-cabinet-do/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;T-rail&lt;/a&gt; style that presses into a slot routed or cut into the edge of the piece:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aluminumsys.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/BRW-11.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.aluminumsys.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/BRW-11.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://www.aluminumsys.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/BRW-11.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;sup&gt;from aluminumsys.com&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: Not affiliated with either company, just the first couple of examples I found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:50.520" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T13:03:28.820" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3820" CreationDate="2016-04-13T15:04:10.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like anything, it all depends.  Since these are turning tools and not gouges for fine woodcarving, you don't need to worry quite as much about having a perfect edge that will give you a clean shave.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a fairly fine grinding wheel to sharpen all my curved woodturning gouges.  There are plenty of jigs to help make a 'perfect' grind, however, I do mine all via freehand.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I line up the gouge bevel to be close to flat with the wheel, then I make contact and rotate the gouge spinning along the edge.  The more grinding practice you've had the easier this is.  I try to get just to the edge, a very light thin orange line (barely seen) and move quickly around.  Too much orange and you mess with the temper, which will speed up how soon you have to come back and try again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7GC9E.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7GC9E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turning tools need fairly frequent sharpenings to keep the edge working so you don't have to.  Because of this you don't want to be spending half an hour honing the edge every time it needs an edge.  The grinding wheel is sufficient.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now if you get to turning very fine items, say like those that turn cowboy hats, when you are getting down to the end and need super sharp tools to take of 1/64&quot; then you might want to spend a little more time honing the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vumsc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vumsc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T15:04:10.750" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3834" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-13T17:21:46.320" Score="6" ViewCount="1337" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe polyurethane glue (aka Gorilla Glue) came into its own in the market about 10-15 years ago, but have not heard much about when it is appropriate to use it.  I have used it on several occasions assuming that it was stronger (per the marketing) than standard PVA wood glues such as Titebond.  I was reading an article the other day that says that for other than end to end wood joints, its strength is basically the same as PVA.  I also assumed that since it foams up it is a better choice if the wood connection has some small gaps.  However, that same article stated that the foam matrix it creates is not very strong. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question then is are there actual applications for which Polyurethane glue would be the glue of choice? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-04-13T18:54:57.137" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T08:36:38.730" Title="What are the applications for polyurethane glue?" Tags="|glue|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3835" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-13T20:56:01.017" Score="8" ViewCount="502" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a stratocaster body that a friend of mine has painted, I know I need to lacquer it before I do anything else, like sorting out the electrics etc. I'm just unsure what lacquer to use so that I don't accidentally ruin the artwork on the body or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the first guitar I'm attempting to build so this is all pretty new to me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2132" LastActivityDate="2016-12-23T18:39:53.907" Title="What do I need to know before I lacquer a custom painted guitar body?" Tags="|finishing|technique|paint|finish-selection|surface-preparation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3834" CreationDate="2016-04-14T08:36:38.730" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have used it on several occasions assuming that it was stronger (per the marketing) than standard PVA wood glues such as Titebond. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the much-publicised results of one glue shoot-out in a major woodworking publication Gorilla actually had to change their claims and the marketing blurb for their original Gorilla Glue. The display items, and even the label itself I think, used to say &quot;the strongest glue on planet Earth&quot; or words to that effect. Since that was shown not to be the case they don't use that tagline any more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I was reading an article the other day that says that for other than end to end wood joints, its strength is basically the same as PVA. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Testing by various parties has shown that polyurethane glue doesn't bond more strongly than other glue types. Obviously the major comparison point is either yellow or white types of PVA. Just to be clear, this has become a little over-stated in the years since.... something that tends to get forgotten or is merely not stated is that the comparative strength of the bonds is technically irrelevant since for most joints the &lt;em&gt;weakest&lt;/em&gt; of them creates a bond as strong or stronger than the wood itself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it's possible that PU is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; stronger for joining end grain either. This is the weakest glue joint as most of us know, but various steps can be taken to help get a better joint with whatever glue is being used (e.g. with PVA or hide glue, 'sizing' the joint with thinned glue prior to the application of the full-strength glue just before the joint is brought together and clamped). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My question then is are there actual applications for which Polyurethane glue would be the glue of choice? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This unfortunately is partly an opinion-based thing. There are specific jobs for which a PU glue is chosen by one person that another would happily use the right type of yellow PVA for, others would go with epoxy and still others would prefer a urea-formaldehyde glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could legitimately say there are no applications for which PU is the glue of choice because there is nothing for which it is the sole best option. It's just one of a number of possible good choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically when it comes down to the bond created PU is strong enough, so on that basis you could pick it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it comes down to how waterproof the joint needs to be you might go with PU, but again there are other glues at least as waterproof. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One very key advantage of PU is that it allows fairly leisurely glue ups because it's not drying out on the surface as soon as you've applied it as PVA is, but this is partly dependent on relative humidity and the MC of the wood. Those in drier circumstances will find it much more forgiving in this regard compared to those living somewhere damp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One additional property of polyurethane adhesives is not purely about wood, they will stick to dissimilar materials. So you could use PU to bond a steel plate to wood for example. But yet again, there are other glues that can do that too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;However, that same article stated that the foam matrix it creates is not very strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes that's correct. It's easy enough to get an idea of how weak the foam matrix is by how little effort is needed to remove PU foam-out (compared to fully hardened yellow glue squeeze-out for example). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that it foams up is misleading and can lead to the erroneous belief that you had yourself that it is a good gap-filling adhesive, but that is very much not the case because the foam has little strength. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do need gap filling, epoxy is probably the glue of choice. Although urea-formaldehyde glues also have some gap-filling ability they're trickier to use, with a narrower temperature range and requiring &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; more time with clamp pressure applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Final note:&lt;/strong&gt; because polyurethane glue is set by moisture it is notorious for going off in the bottle after the seal is broken. So if you do want to use it I would make a point about working through the contents of the bottle in good time, or you'll go to use it and find that it won't come out the nozzle any more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're a leisure woodworker who only does the occasional job and you might not get a chance to use the glue again for weeks or even months I would strongly recommend you look at other glues instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T08:36:38.730" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3837" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3839" CreationDate="2016-04-14T13:36:46.690" Score="6" ViewCount="2656" Body="&lt;p&gt;I repaired a small end table recently and one of the aprons used dowel joinery to attach to a leg. I drilled out the dowel since a couple were broken and I wanted then to all be the same. I replaced the dowel with some poplar dowel from a local hardware store. I then glued it back together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot be certain but in hindsight I think the dowels might not have been glued in and they were fluted dowel which the replacement was not. If I had used fluted dowel I think I might have been able to get away from glue and just used a wooden hammer to knock it closed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I think of fluted dowel I picture these guys...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VjWk7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VjWk7m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fluted dowel pins&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/p/General-Tools-1-13-in-x-1-4-in-Fluted-Dowel-Pins-840014/202252099&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;HomeDepot.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I understand correctly that shape will allow the dowel to be inserted easily but make it harder to move around? I see these on economical furniture all the time and I never glue them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T22:05:03.013" LastActivityDate="2020-12-27T16:40:34.597" Title="What is the functional purpose of fluted dowel?" Tags="|furniture|tool-selection|dowel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3838" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-14T13:47:35.197" Score="1" ViewCount="1184" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a Sears Craftsman Tablesaw from Craigslist, and I am looking for the proper model number for the unit in order to grab the proper replacement parts for it as necessary.  On the sticker at the unit, it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;10-IN. PREMIUM HYBRID TABLE SAW&#xA;5/8&quot; BLAD ARBOR, 3450 RPM&#xA;3 5/16&quot; DEPTH OF CUT AT 90D&#xA;2 1/4&quot; DEPTH OF CUT AT 45D&#xA;1 3/4 HP CONTINUOUS DUTY&#xA;MODEL NO: `320.221161`&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the manual provided by the seller notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;MODEL NO: `351.221161`&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manual appears that the &quot;351&quot; has a gray background behind the text, like it was updated.  The seller also wrote a &quot;0&quot; at the end of the number in pen making it &lt;code&gt;351.2211610&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For somebody pretty new to woodworking this is a bit confusing!  I have found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.searsoutlet.com/1-3-4-HP-Premium-Hybrid-10-Table-Saw-22116-/d/product_details.jsp?pid=32628&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;model 22116 on Sears&lt;/a&gt; currently, and this looks visually identical to my unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what the proper model number to use is, in order to obtain the proper digital manual and for parts ordering?  Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2136" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T16:13:04.780" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T16:13:04.780" Title="Sears Craftsman Table Saw Model Number" Tags="|table-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3837" CreationDate="2016-04-14T13:49:17.517" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two main purposes that I know of.  First, the flutes allow air to escape and glue to fill the voids as you are inserting the dowels.  Without them, it is possible that you would not be able to insert the dowel all the way into the hole.  Secondly, the flutes are produced by compressing the dowel, and once exposed to moisture (glue), the compressed parts of the dowel will expand ensuring a very snug fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some cases like Festool Domino tenons, it also gives the manufacture yet another opportunity to advertise their name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll also point out that the tapered ends which allow for very slight variations in alignment to more easily fit together; without them, you'd need to be dead on when lining the pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T13:49:17.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3840" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-14T13:57:37.553" Score="6" ViewCount="10344" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1655/what-are-some-best-practices-and-techniques-for-building-cabinet-boxes-with-plyw&quot;&gt;There's very similar question&lt;/a&gt;, but there're no answers for my specifics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to build few open-top boxes to be used mostly as a bench to seat 2 grown-ups,  with ability to also carry things in them sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YynEJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YynEJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;This kind:&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The box size would be height=400mm, length=800mm, width=400mm, made of 10mm plywood.  Say the max load on boxes when used as benches = turned open side down is 200kg and the load when used as a box is 50kg max.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can think of 3 methods of making a corner joint, I want to choose based on labor time and cost given they are made to provide same strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inside corner brackets. -- how many brackets do I need, what's optimal screw size?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fingered joints. I own no clamps, so it would require buying them, I don't have jigsaw or router nor a table saw, so this would make me order cutting them on CNC. What's the required surface area to hold my load -- how many fingers would I need. &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2b. Just gluing one board to another, which is degenerate case of finger joint from my understanding. Can be combined with (1) or (3).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Confirmat) screws through one board into the edge of another. -- How many do I need, do I need to drill holes for them? Should I worry that layers of plywood would come apart with time?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To have a context of the costs in my city: hired help is 3$/hour, CNC cutting is 0.5$/meter, 10mm 1.5x1.5m plywood sheet costs 10$&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1811" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T15:31:28.893" Title="8 to 12 mm plywood box joints: brackets vs glue(box joint) vs screws" Tags="|joinery|plywood|strength|box-joint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3841" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3851" CreationDate="2016-04-14T14:05:57.360" Score="5" ViewCount="3020" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now I know that I can just buy these in packs of hundreds likely but lets play pretend that I need to make some from what I had available. When I think of fluted dowel I picture these guys...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VjWk7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VjWk7m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fluted dowel pins&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/p/General-Tools-1-13-in-x-1-4-in-Fluted-Dowel-Pins-840014/202252099&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;HomeDepot.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That style of dowel would be difficult to emulate. I am not going to make a jig where I would rotate the dowel and run a beading moulding plane, or similar tool, to scratch a groove in. &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/3839/128&quot;&gt;If they are actually compressed&lt;/a&gt; maybe I just need to compress them with something? Is there another method of working the dowel that will get a similar functional result?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2019-03-11T05:14:58.310" Title="How can I flute my own dowel or create dowel with similar properties" Tags="|joinery|dowel|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3841" CreationDate="2016-04-14T14:09:25.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If they are actually compressed maybe I just need to compress them with something&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Up until I read that answer I had never considered them to be compressed. I had always assumed cut. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that is the case then a simple approach to this would be to file (or fine rasp) the ends to get the taper and the use a large toothed jawed tool, like pliers, to simply compress the dowel. This needs to be done carefully as to not break the dowel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-04-19T16:50:57.067" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T16:50:57.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3843" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-14T14:47:40.473" Score="2" ViewCount="227" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently acquired a wooden table with a high-gloss painted surface.  In moving it, I scratched one edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HKryV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HKryV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;scratched table edge&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am hoping to repair the damage (hopefully without repainting the whole table) and then somehow weatherproof the entire table so that it can be kept on a covered patio.  (I may post follow-up questions on color-matching, scratch repair and weatherproofing very soon).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing that the first step of this project involves figuring out what kind of paint is on the table.  Here is what I can tell from my uninformed observation...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The table is high gloss white, not quite mirror-like when viewed straight on, but highly reflective from an angled view.  It is resistant to fingernail indentations, but obviously not indestructible.  There is also a small &quot;dimple&quot; on the surface (which is way above my repair skills, so I will just live with it).  Here is a picture of the dimple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CnR3D.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CnR3D.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;dimple&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Do these photos and observations provide enough information to identify the type of paint (Acrylic, Oil, etc.)?   If so, what is it?  If not, how do I acquire the other information needed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="147" LastEditorUserId="147" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T16:38:11.643" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T00:32:14.730" Title="Identifying Paint Type on Finished Furniture" Tags="|finishing|wood-repair|paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3840" CreationDate="2016-04-14T14:52:59.970" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The box size would be height=400mm, length=800mm, width=400mm, made of 10mm plywood. Say the max load on boxes when used as benches = turned open side down is 200kg and the load when used as a box is 50kg max.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to convert to Imperial units since that's how my brain works. This is about 16&amp;quot; x 32&amp;quot; x 16&amp;quot; and 3/8&amp;quot; plywood, supporting 440 lbs when overturned and 100 lbs when used to carry items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 400mm span might be a bit much to carry 200kg using only 10mm plywood.  Are you really expecting that a 200-kg person will sit on this?  Anyone I know that's that obese would have a hard time sitting on a box this low.  Otherwise, 800mm isn't really wide enough for two people to sit next to each other (unless they're quite friendly or very skinny).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, I doubt anyone is going to be able to (easily) carry 50kgs of stuff in that box.  I know in the US, lifting weights for most jobs are limited by OSHA to 50 lbs (22 kg).  Even that is quite a bit of weight for what I assume are casual storage boxes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That out of the way, let's delve into your three bullet points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can think of 3 methods of making a corner joint, I want to choose based on labor time and cost given they are made to provide same strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inside corner brackets. -- how many brackets do I need, what's optimal screw size?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say (3) brackets per corner, one at the top, middle, and bottom of the joint, should be sufficient given your loading and proposed use.  Screw size isn't particularly important at these weights, but maybe a #10 (5mm) or larger, length to suit the plywood thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fingered joints. I own no clamps, so it would require buying them, I don't have jigsaw or router, so this would make me order cutting them on CNC. What's the required surface area to hold my load -- how many fingers would I need.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have a table saw?  Box joints can be &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bTd81dlRQiE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;fairly easy to make&lt;/a&gt; if you have one.  Or you can invest the time and money in making a more complicated jig (&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodgears.ca/box_joint/jig.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ibuildit.ca/Sales/sales-9.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; are examples).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend that the width of a finger of the box joint be no more than four times the thickness of the plywood.  There isn't really a hard and fast rule for this: it's more of a gut feeling thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't necessarily need clamps to make boxes with box joints.  Simple &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/3729/878&quot;&gt;ratchet straps&lt;/a&gt; or even a rope &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turnbuckle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;turnbuckle&lt;/a&gt; can be used to clamp the box together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have to go the CNC route, be prepared for it to cost you a pretty penny (unless you have access to the shop yourself).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Confirmat) screws through one board into the edge of another. -- How many do I need, do I need to drill holes for them? Should I worry that layers of plywood would come apart with time?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A butt joint with screws can have some issues with plywood.  Even if you predrill the holes in the side grain of the plywood, you are still very likely to split the plies since the screw will act like a wedge between the layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can reinforce the joint with glue, but don't expect it to last for a long time.  I would advise against this type of joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other thing you might want to consider is using a solid wood cleat on the inside of the corners to screw into.  This will give the screws a better material to hold into and reinforce the corner from racking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uztk9m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uztk9m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cleats&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lowes.com/creative-ideas/kids-and-baby/race-car-bed/project&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this joint, I would use (6) screws per corner (3 per side), top, middle, and bottom.  You'll have to stagger them slightly so that they don't overlap each other in the cleat.  Again, #10 (5mm) screws will be fine, and length to suit the plywood and the cleat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T16:15:07.897" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3838" CreationDate="2016-04-14T15:05:42.297" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what the proper model number to use is, in order to obtain the proper digital manual and for parts ordering?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would trust the model number on the saw itself more than the manual.  Who knows if it's even the right manual that the seller gave you?  Heck, the wrong manual could have even been packed with the table saw from the manufacturer, but the model stickers on the unit are usually correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're really unsure, you can always take a picture of the model sticker on the saw and bring it and the manual to a Sears to ask someone there what parts to order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing that a lot of their parts are interchangeable between saw models, so it may not matter too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T15:05:42.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3841" CreationDate="2016-04-14T15:19:45.013" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there another method of working the dowel that will get a similar functional result?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could maybe make a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/dowel-plate-standard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dowel plate&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RBQXwm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RBQXwm.png&quot; alt=&quot;dowel plate&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but instead of drilling a regular hole through the steel plate, make a series of smaller holes in a circle that approximate the cross-section profile you're going for, then punch out the section where the dowel goes through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, going with the dowel plate idea again, drill a normal hole and use a small circular file to get the same effect as drilling a series of smaller holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T15:19:45.013" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3847" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-14T16:46:16.127" Score="3" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is related to &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3843/identifying-paint-type-on-finished-furniture&quot;&gt;my earlier question&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was reading elsewhere in this forum and found a &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1151/how-to-find-out-what-kind-of-finish-is-on-a-piece-of-furniture&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt; asking how to determine what finish had been applied to an old furniture item.  @LeeG answered, suggesting the application of different solvents to a non-visible part of the furniture, to see which one strips off the old finish.  That answer listed the solvents which remove shellac and lacquer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have plenty of non-visible spots on my current repair project, so this technique would work for me.  It  might even allow me to heal a major scratch without having to add more paint. I would just lightly dissolve the paint around the scratch and then blend the liquefied pigment to fill the scratch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;What solvents dissolve each of the common furniture paint types (latex, oil, etc.) which have been popular in the last few decades?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="147" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2020-02-24T19:24:12.747" Title="What dissolves/liquefies each of the popular furniture paints?" Tags="|finishing|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3848" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3850" CreationDate="2016-04-14T17:43:07.240" Score="4" ViewCount="3172" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to create an inlay of my fiancee's initials for a cutting board I am making for her. For the inlay pieces, however, I'm not sure what wood I should use. Because I am a slight beginner and don't have many tools I will be using a jigsaw to cut the inlays out and a plunge router to make the inlay-points on the actual cutting board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which wood types would be appropriate for creating these inlays? I know they'll need to be relatively thin, but that's all I know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1035" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T18:11:50.653" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T18:11:50.653" Title="What wood type is appropriate for creating custom inlays?" Tags="|wood-selection|inlay|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3837" CreationDate="2016-04-14T18:02:11.323" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I understand correctly that shape will allow the dowel to be inserted easily but make it harder to move around? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nope. The chamfered end is what makes insertion easier (always advisable to do this on any shop-made dowels).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fluting is almost entirely to allow air and excess glue to escape so as to prevent a buildup of hydraulic pressure, which can at worst totally prevent a perfectly round, tight-fitting dowel from being driven home in a drilled hole — it just bounces back up if hammered home LOL&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The commercial variety are said to be compressed but I don't know that all are, if so the idea is they swell once wet with glue and then lock in place (this is the principle used with biscuits). But regardless of whether they are or not it doesn't matter, a homemade dowel with no fluting* bonds as well or better into a hole it fits tightly in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*But one or more scores or kerfs to allow air out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T18:02:11.323" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3848" CreationDate="2016-04-14T18:11:13.323" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Which wood types would be appropriate for creating these inlays? I know they'll need to be relatively thin, but that's all I know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can inlay pretty much any wood you want.  Some will work better than others (even within individual species of wood) just due to that piece's temperament, grain structure, and stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would stay away from very open-grained woods, like red oak or ash.  At the thinness you likely need for inlay, the open grain is very much more prone to splitting/cracking along the grain.  Also, you'll get weird bumps at the edges due to the porosity of the grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Close-grained woods (like maple, holly, cherry, etc.) work well for inlay because of how tight their grain is.  However, some may not work for a cutting board (like holly) because they discolor/stain very easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T18:11:13.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3841" CreationDate="2016-04-14T18:15:09.083" Score="10" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;That style of dowel would be difficult to emulate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not so much actually! You can do a decent job of simulating this texture by simply gripping the dowel in pliers, vice-grips etc. and drawing it through, or squeezing hard to compress them into the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's that tip in an old issue of Popular Mechanics, with another technique underneath:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qc93i.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qc93i.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Two methods to groove dowels&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[&lt;strong&gt;Source:&lt;/strong&gt; Popular Mechanics, Dec 1987]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both tips are often repeated online and sent in to the tips sections of woodworking mags :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case you end up with some grooves that prevent a hydraulic seal from forming, allowing air and excess glue out of the drilled hole. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T18:15:09.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3843" CreationDate="2016-04-14T18:25:18.470" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do these photos and observations provide enough information to identify the type of paint (Acrylic, Oil, etc.)? If so, what is it? If not, how do I acquire the other information needed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid not, some years ago it would have been a bit easier to guess but these days there are a great many types of paints available (a few distinct types, numerous variations) and they can look identical once dry. And many of them can have a very good gloss level so that's not a clue unfortunately. A good gloss without any surface tack whatsoever in warm weather used to be a pointer to alkyd paint over one of the acrylic formulations (basically any waterbased paint) but they've improved greatly over the years and they rarely, if ever, exhibit this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be able to get a good idea what it is yourself by testing the dried paint for solubility. This is essentially the same process that can be used to determine (or at least narrow down) what clear finish might have been used on furniture. Basically you start with the weakest solvent and then move up if there's no reaction, unfortunately this means if you don't get a reaction first time you're looking at buying multiple strong solvents which you may have little or no future use for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the good news is I don't think you really need to worry about doing this as the type of paint doesn't really matter for the next step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;then somehow weatherproof the entire table so that it can be kept on a covered patio&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may be your biggest hurdle in fact. The paint may already be quite water-resistant, but I don't know of a good way of determining this on a finished piece without access to the original paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can varnish over paintwork quite successfully to provide additional waterproofing to however much it already has, but varnish can't be relied upon to bond properly to unknown glossy surfaces without thorough surface prep and there are no guarantees of a good outcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The usual recommendation to do this is to thoroughly clean, then scuff the surface for the varnish to have something to cling to, which sidesteps creating a chemical bond (this is the ideal where possible) and instead it just clings on physically (less ideal but can still be very good).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem here is that the table is white and oil-based varnishes are all slightly yellowish, so you'll end up with a cream table. You can use a waterbased varnish, e.g. a waterbased poly (actually acrylic varnish modified with some additional polyurethane), which are nearly always perfectly clear, or water-white as it's called, once dry. However they are a bit more skittish about bonding well to an unknown substrate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of the varnish you use it's advisable to do an adhesion test, taking advantage of the many non-visible spots on the table that you mention in another Question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;So first job is to thoroughly wash the surface of the paint and then rinse off well and let it dry. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Now you scuff it with a fine abrasive. Scotch-Brite or any similar non-woven nylon abrasive pads (including those intended for kitchen use!) work well for this job. Only scuff until you have a uniform dulled surface and then stop.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Then apply the varnish as per the instructions. There's a chance that even with the scuffing the varnish won't apply properly and will bead up on the surface, you can try a commercial flow aid to help with this but it may not entirely solve the problem. If it doesn't regrettably I would recommend you stop and abandon the test as that varnish is sure not to work well enough.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Now the hard part, you have to wait for the varnish to properly dry. If the drying time is minutes and the recoat time is under an hour the full cure period may still be as much as a couple of days. I would recommend you wait &lt;em&gt;at least&lt;/em&gt; 48 hours before the next step with a waterbased clear finish. On the chance that you went with an oil-based varnish you should wait at least 5-7 days.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Last step, the test for adhesion. So *gulp* moment, you now score the varnish heavily with a sharp knife in a criss-cross pattern. Score lines approximately 1/8&quot; (3mm) apart, and then apply a good sticky tape and burnish it down well, then pull it smartly off the surface. If no varnish at all comes off you're in great shape, the varnish has bonded exceptionally well. If only a few flakes of varnish are visible on the tape the varnish has bonded quite well and it's safe to go ahead. If large flakes are visible on the tape the bond is poor and if almost all the varnish comes off the bond is obviously almost non-existent. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-04-19T00:32:14.730" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T00:32:14.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3853" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3854" CreationDate="2016-04-14T21:45:13.300" Score="3" ViewCount="254" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have offcuts of Macrocarpa that I'd like to use instead of keeping them there doing nothing useful. I acquired some Macrocarpa wood that is still wet, it seems that it has been cut recently, I've had it for a month now myself. I was wondering if:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can use the wet wood to create a wall hanging (12 by 12 inches), it will be a join of three 4 inch wide pieces. would something happen to it over time as it dries such as break apart?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can use a mix of wood (new and dry) to achieve this?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1058" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T16:28:59.160" Title="Using newly cut wood with dry wood" Tags="|lumber|green-wood|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3853" CreationDate="2016-04-15T00:15:25.387" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short, don't do it.  Drying wood is subject to a lot of shrinkage and at different rates depending upon whether you measure across the grain rings (radial) or with them (tangential). (There is very little shrinkage in the length). The overall amount will differ depending upon the species (I could not find actual figures for Cypress but it should be similar to other soft woods), how wet it is and the relative humidity, but it could easily be in the 10% range. In addition the tangential shrinkage can easily be double the radial. So, all in all , there is a lot of movement during the drying process.  All of this adds up to a lot of internal stress in the wood.  It is why you see cross sections of tree trunks with large gaps like pieces of pie that have been removed.  The wood is shrinking rapidly and the stress is too much. It is also why you see splits at the edges of drying lumber.  These cracks occur as a result of the differences in the shrinkage rates between wood at the ends where evaporation is occurring at a higher rate than further towards the middle of the board where the evaporation and shrinkage is slower. All wood must be dried to achieve any dimensional stability.  The wood may be kiln dried or air dried.  Air drying takes a lot of time,  as a rule of thumb allow 1 year per inch of thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key issue for your project, other than the fact that the whole thing will shrink is that each board will shrink at different rates depending upon grain direction across the boards.  Since the project is small it is possible that the wood and glue (screws?) can hold up to the stress if the boards are all oriented exactly the same and have small areas of contact, but it is likely that the wood will split near where the boards are attached.  As to mixing the green and dried wood, the dried wood will not shrink anywhere near as much as the green wood and you are almost guaranteed to have problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T00:15:25.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3853" CreationDate="2016-04-15T07:37:18.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general you don't want to mix dried wood with green wood (any wood from freshly cut to not fully dried is 'green' to some extent). However there are specific areas in woodworking where green wood &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; mixed with dry, so it's not an absolute don't do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smaller projects are more forgiving with regards to wood movement because the total size of the movements is small. Since you're looking at making a piece only 12&quot; square (30.5cm) with only a few pieces 4&quot; (10.2cm) wide there is a limit to how much shrinkage the green boards will go through. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And anyway, for a non-structural project for yourself I don't see why you can't at least try what you've planned. Do note that shrinkage is not the only thing that occurs as green wood air-dries, it can warp and crack too. If the drying of the green portions does cause certain problems you can see them firsthand, which many woodworkers don't ever get a chance to see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And who knows? You might actually like what happens, these days people make use of non-perfect wood all the time for its character. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T07:37:18.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3856" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-15T12:28:58.770" Score="5" ViewCount="371" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know how I can create one kind of fake inlay. I would like to know what is involved, at least at a basic level, how one creates inlays using traditional techniques and tools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What tools could I use to create a traditional inlay? I envision a router plane and a coping saw for the actual inlay but it would be nice to know about anyone that has actually done it. More about custom shapes like leaves then just inlay strips that run the perimeter of a box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2023-07-03T09:12:09.020" Title="What are the ideal traditional tools to use for creating an inlay?" Tags="|hand-tools|tool-selection|traditional-techniques|inlay|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3857" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3859" CreationDate="2016-04-15T15:37:12.673" Score="5" ViewCount="5073" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the benefit of a single flute, double flute or even triple? The more flutes the better the cut or just the opposite maybe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T17:04:32.427" Title="Number of flutes on a router bit" Tags="|router-bit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3853" CreationDate="2016-04-15T15:41:39.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simply would not, boards could shrink and warp. You could use them and next day everything is done for. The only thing you could do (MAYBE) is cutting all the boards into 3 inch stripes and taking a glue joint router bit (I would use a finger joint) and glue the board, which should resist warping of the board. But it is better to let the wood dry before using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T15:41:39.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3857" CreationDate="2016-04-15T17:04:32.427" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rule of thumb: the more flutes the better the finish but the slower the feed rate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Single-flutes bits I don't believe are that common, I think they were most seen on narrow straight cutters where there was limited space for multiple carbide inserts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Double-flute bits are the most common. The great majority of common router bits have two flutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More flutes than this in general will give a better cut because the distance around the circumference from cutting edge to cutting edge is reduced. This also spreads the wear more so in theory at least the cutter should stay sharper proportionally longer. Because there is more carbide bonded to the bit they can be substantially more expensive and as mentioned in the rule of thumb they require a slower feed rate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On older HSS profiling bits more flutes were common, some had six or more. Obviously this was partly to spread the wear since HSS is fairly tough but much less resistant to wear than tungsten carbide, but it was also because they were intended for lower RPMs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T17:04:32.427" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3860" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3863" CreationDate="2016-04-15T18:02:05.783" Score="7" ViewCount="1263" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a sanding job that requires sanding inside many small pockets - a few thousand. I tested the speed I could get doing it by hand, and it might be as much of a week of non-stop work. It's time for power tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What tools are there for sanding inside small pockets, quickly? The pockets are slightly larger than 1&quot; x 1&quot;, and 1&quot; deep, plus a 45º slope extending out one side, for the smallest pockets. There are larger pockets in the job, also.&#xA;Heck, what tools are there overall, for sanding inside pockets?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know some people use emery boards, others use sanding sticks, some use abrasive nylon rotary tool wheels. What all options are out there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WI387.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WI387.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A sample of the pockets I need to sand. Each one is a little larger than a cubic inch, and slanted on one side.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2030" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T19:59:44.930" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T15:19:07.000" Title="Sanding inside pockets, fast" Tags="|tool-selection|sanding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3860" CreationDate="2016-04-15T19:35:46.793" Score="8" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Bandfile Belt Sander&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not advocating any particular product but showing the product picture&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-bandfile-belt-sander-92158.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FIIIIm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-bandfile-belt-sander-92158.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Harbour Frieght&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That should help you get into the tight spots quickly and efficiently. Only issue would be the corners. For that I would use a small rotary tool. Hopefully you have one that will fit in there. Mine is a little too clunky to get into a hole that small. They make all sort of attachments for those things so a sanding ball might work just as well to conform to the shapes you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T19:44:02.483" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T19:44:02.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3860" CreationDate="2016-04-16T08:27:18.357" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally I would have aimed for an internal milled finish that didn't require sanding, that's the ideal. Obviously too late for that now and I don't know if that's possible with the Shopbot and the bit you were using anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of sanding to smooth the rough surfaces I recommend scraping. It will be faster, give a better finish and is more controllable, with &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; less chance of accidentally rounding edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the flats the ideal tool is a bar scraper or scraping chisel. These are one of the tools traditionally used in planemaking for flattening the beds on wooden planes. These beds were never sanded as far as I'm aware and the finish is as smooth as you could ask for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make one yourself from a beater chisel, just grind the end flat:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/21Sha.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/21Sha.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bar scraper/scraping chisel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the same thing explained in &lt;strong&gt;Classic Hand Tools&lt;/strong&gt; by Garrett Hack:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GVZyc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GVZyc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Scraping chisels explained&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see from the old cast-steel chisel to the right in the photo above you don't have to start with a chisel that has flat sides (a firmer or registered mortise chisel), a bevel-edge chisel will work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally a tool like this would be specially heat-treated to make it a dedicated scraper (the tip being made ultra-hard) but a chisel of standard hardness is more than adequate for limited use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T15:19:07.000" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T15:19:07.000" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3864" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3865" CreationDate="2016-04-16T22:00:39.593" Score="6" ViewCount="550" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do know that the more teeth there is on a saw blade means a more finished cut, but could that also mean a longer lasting blade since each one takes less off at a time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-04-17T03:44:23.150" LastActivityDate="2016-04-17T03:47:11.307" Title="Does having more teeth on a saw blade help it last longer?" Tags="|table-saw|cutting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3864" CreationDate="2016-04-17T03:31:34.847" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Intuitively, yes, this would be the case, but the question you are asking is potentially putting the cart before the horse. One generally would not choose tooth count based on how long they want the blade to last.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tooth count is primarily a function of the type of cut and the material you are cutting.  As discussed in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/q/307/49&quot;&gt;What is the difference between a rip-cut and a cross-cut?&lt;/a&gt;, crosscut blades typically have more teeth compared to rip blades. In some cases, as with table saws, you can also buy a combination blade, which has fewer teeth than a crosscut blade but more than a rip blade, and often works well enough for both types of operations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many other factors also influence the longevity of a blade between sharpenings, such as the hardness (e.g., steel vs. carbide, or one grade of steel or carbide vs. another) and initial sharpness of the teeth, whether the blade is properly maintained, the operating temperature, and the materials cut with the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that higher-quality carbide-tipped blades will also have thicker carbide teeth which can be sharpened more times than those of a cheaper carbide blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-04-17T03:47:11.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3866" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3867" CreationDate="2016-04-17T12:56:02.027" Score="2" ViewCount="749" Body="&lt;p&gt;Preface, I have not worked with a planer before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a curved piece of wood which was created by laminating three 1/4&quot; oak boards over a form.  The curve looks good but I would like to clean up the edge.  I can do this with a sander of course, but was wondering if I could pass it through a thickness planer.  Basically place the piece on its side (its about 3&quot; wide) and pass it through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this &quot;safe&quot; to do on a planer? Should I pass the form through too to provide support?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1874" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2016-04-17T16:58:38.167" LastActivityDate="2016-04-17T16:58:38.167" Title="Planing a laminated curve" Tags="|thickness-planer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3866" CreationDate="2016-04-17T13:08:56.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends the exact profile of the curve (how &quot;thick&quot; it looks to the planer), but I would hazard that a thickness planer is not a safe option for this. Due to the irregular surface that will be given both to the rollers and the cutting head, I would be concerned that the piece tips over unexpectedly while inside (probably at the beginning, before the second roller engages).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bracing the curved piece in a form that is the same height as the width of the piece will alleviate these concerns. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, due to large amounts of glue in the laminated wood I would worry about marring the planer knives. Matthias over at woodgears.ca documented this effect from &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodgears.ca/jointer/plywood.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;running plywood on his jointer&lt;/a&gt;. Commercial plywood is probably rougher on the knives than your laminated oak (with only 2 glue lines), but together with the risk of going through the planer I wouldn't try that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2016-04-17T13:08:56.247" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3860" CreationDate="2016-04-18T15:09:25.423" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use a small-diameter sanding drum on the drill press, similar to that pictured below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XUera.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XUera.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;drum sander&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0000DD1BE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would have to lower/raise the drill press table each time you move to a different pocket, but that's not too big of a hassle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's hard to tell by your pictures, but the sides of the pockets look straight, so this should work for the sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottoms, however, you'll need a different solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T15:09:25.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3869" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-18T15:20:04.700" Score="6" ViewCount="1137" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, I get the gist of it. The hand goes on the handle and you hit the nail or whatever object with the head (of the hammer). So... not this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shutterstock.com/cat.mhtml?country_code=US&amp;amp;safesearch=1&amp;amp;search_language=en&amp;amp;search_type=similar&amp;amp;similar_photo_id=1275499&amp;amp;tracking_id=MxoUBvnh83rUmBLLVT0YWQ&amp;amp;page=1&amp;amp;inline=65596528&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ihmGd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;How not to use a hammer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shutterstock.com/cat.mhtml?country_code=US&amp;amp;safesearch=1&amp;amp;search_language=en&amp;amp;search_type=similar&amp;amp;similar_photo_id=1275499&amp;amp;tracking_id=MxoUBvnh83rUmBLLVT0YWQ&amp;amp;page=1&amp;amp;inline=65596528&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ShutterStock&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am referring to both the action of seating nails and removing them. When I am removing nails from pallet boards I hit all the nails out and then flip the board to I can pull them out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually this repetitive action is going to start to hurt and obviously that is going to happen regardless. However I wonder what I need to know to hold it off as long as possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does something simple like my thumb position play into account? Should I be giving a thumbs up or making a fist when holding it? Could this just be a matter of whatever feels comfortable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I need to know to use my claw hammer effectively so as to not cause unneeded stress on myself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-04-18T23:35:34.853" LastActivityDate="2018-02-21T08:18:27.113" Title="What do I need to know to use a claw hammer effectively" Tags="|technique|hand-tools|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3870" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3875" CreationDate="2016-04-18T16:18:34.017" Score="9" ViewCount="3978" Body="&lt;p&gt;In an &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/3865/93&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/users/49/rob&quot;&gt;rob ♦&lt;/a&gt; stated that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Many other factors also influence the longevity of a blade between sharpenings, such as the hardness (e.g., steel vs. carbide, or one grade of steel or carbide vs. another) and initial sharpness of the teeth, &lt;strong&gt;whether the blade is properly maintained&lt;/strong&gt;, the operating temperature, and the materials cut with the blade.&lt;br&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Emphasis mine&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is necessary to properly maintain a saw blade?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are different techniques necessary for different types of blades?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;circular&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;band&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;reciprocating&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;jig/scroll&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;other&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T14:06:37.673" Title="What should I do to maintain a saw blade?" Tags="|tool-maintenance|saw-blade|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3853" CreationDate="2016-04-18T16:28:59.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Despite&lt;/strong&gt; all the &lt;em&gt;DON'T DO IT&lt;/em&gt; naysayers, if you're looking to create an &lt;em&gt;artistic&lt;/em&gt; wall hanging piece, I'd say go for it! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll have to make adaptations to your design to accommodate the shrinkage that &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; happen as the pieces dry, but I think it could be handled, perhaps by a single pocket screw holding each pair of boards together. This would give you a dynamic, living (dying? drying?) piece of art that would change over the next couple of years, until it finally reached room humidity. As with any art piece, it might come out very nicely or it might be utter rubbish, but if you go into it knowing and accepting that, you might just end up with something you really like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, wet and dry wood are commonly used in making small wagon wheels. A dry spoke is fitted through a just big enough hole in a piece of green wood that acts as the other spoke. As the green wood drys, it shrinks, locking the dry spoke very tightly in place without any fasteners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T16:28:59.160" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3870" CreationDate="2016-04-18T16:46:22.717" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd put these in approximate order from most to least priority:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;making sure you use it properly - for example, don't cut steel with any of these blades/tools unless it's specifically rated for use with steel. Even then, if it's a motorized saw the speed needs to be adjusted/slowed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;rust prevention - keep it free from corrosion&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;cleanliness - buildup of pitch, gums, paint, etc. can cause the blade to cut less efficiently and overheat. This can ruin the temper and cause it to dull quickly. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T16:46:22.717" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3869" CreationDate="2016-04-18T17:44:33.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whether pulling or pounding nails the foremost concern is &lt;strong&gt;leverage&lt;/strong&gt; - this means grip the handle as far from the head as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thumbs up, thumbs down depends on the where the nail is in relation to your body and how you can best achieve maximum mechanical advantage (least effort to get the job done).  Personally, I think that if I were dismantling a pallet, I would lean the boards containing the nails against a table, pound them through as you indicated, then seat the claw so that I could pull the handle downward such that body weight could help provide some of the force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always seat the nail as far into the space between claws as you can - keeps the hammer from slipping off and increases mechanical advantage.  If the nail is too far out to get a good grip near its head, place a block of wood against the nail and then place the claw on the shaft of the nail. See below which is also a slick wayy to ease the damage done to the board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5OrOa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5OrOa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.doityourself.com/stry/toolshammers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, one of the big problems with removing nails is gaining a purchase on the nail head.  If you can drive the nail out from the other side far enough to attach the claw, then no problem.  But what do you do when you have a 16 penny sinker holding together a couple of two by fours? Almost impossible to do without messing up the wood. First see whether the nail head is totally sunk, if not, with  little effort you might be able to get the claw to get a grip.  If the nail has been driven home (or beyond) your best bet is find a way to pry the boards apart (think crow bar, pry bar, or even the claw of your hammer).  If these don't do the job, then you resort to solutions that are beyond the scope of this question and perhaps even for another site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T17:44:33.533" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3870" CreationDate="2016-04-19T11:54:16.683" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this is too broad to fully answer if asking about all saw types. Power saws I think can be grouped together for convenience and because the issues are fairly similar for all, but once you get to hand saws it's a whole different ballgame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Power saws&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For power saws, I think the idea of 'proper maintenance' may vary somewhat depending on the person. For all power tools and the bulk of their users, this would mean only two things, &lt;strong&gt;cleaning&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;keeping rust at bay&lt;/strong&gt;. Although it is possible few people have the inclination or skill to sharpen their own power-saw blades at home. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming the blade doesn't have a rust-prevention coating applied in the factory keeping rust at bay is basic and simple. Oiling or waxing are the obvious routes, just as they are with most iron and steel in all other tools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleaning is much more important with power-saw blades because the friction due to the high speed of the cutting in certain woods leads to gumming up in a way which is nearly absent when cutting by hand. Softwoods are the notorious culprit here, and a few resinous hardwoods are known for problems in this regard. Some sheet goods can be a problem too due to the type of adhesive used. The buildup can lead to the blade cutting poorly and appearing to have become blunt, while in fact it's just that the teeth need cleaning to free the edges and re-establish the proper clearance angle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are various products made for cleaning resinous buildup on saw blades. But the basic approach is either a solvent action (dissolves the resin) or a caustic action (breaks down the resin), which is why you can also do this effectively with an appropriate solvent such as kerosene, denatured alcohol, acetone or lacquer thinner* or with a suitable oven cleaner, one using caustic soda as the primary cleaning agent**. Some woodworkers report good results with other general cleaners including Simple Green, Goo Gone, Greased Lightning and even good old WD-40. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not only is cleaning important for the blade to cut well in the first place, a clean blade has a much better quality of cut but more importantly keeping blades clean means they stay cooler during use, which gives a longer service life. As with all high-speed cutting edges, heat will begin to weaken them so anything that makes them run hot should be kept on top of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;* I would recommend you use the mildest solvent that will do the job rather than going straight to lacquer thinner, it most assuredly works but it's relatively toxic and very fast to evaporate. Plus it will dissolve a lot of paints so may remove important branding or other information printed on the blade. Try kerosene or denatured alcohol first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;** Caustic agents may attack some brazing so use with caution on carbide-tipped saw blades. Completely safe on any all-steel blade however. Do note that this will also very effectively remove most paints and coatings and of course there's a risk of chemical burns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hand saws&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Obviously with almost all hand saws rust-prevention is important, cleaning less so since it's rare you'd need to do anything other than brush away a few bits of clinging sawdust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But with hand saws the concept of maintenance will go beyond the above two things and must include &lt;strong&gt;sharpening&lt;/strong&gt;, which for many dedicated users is a standard part of keeping up their saws. This subject is beyond the scope of an Answer to properly cover and even fairly lengthy guides elsewhere online should be considered just primers on the subject, given there are entire chapters in sharpening books devoted to the subject.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of even attempting to describe it here briefly I'll just tack on a few links. First, a very basic overview to introduce the idea:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fine-tools.com/G10001.html&quot;&gt;Sharpening and Setting Sawblades&lt;/a&gt; on Dieter Schmid Fine Tools&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://workshopcompanion.com/KnowHow/Tools/Sharpening/8_Sharpening_Hand_Saws/8_Sharpening_Hand_Saws.htm&quot;&gt;Sharpening Hand Saws&lt;/a&gt; on Workshop Companion&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/tool-guide/video/a-tool-kit-for-sharpening-handsaws.aspx&quot;&gt;A Tool Kit for Sharpening Handsaws&lt;/a&gt; by Chris Gochnour on Fine Woodworking&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/ron-herman-%E2%80%98sharpen-your-handsaws%E2%80%99&quot;&gt;Ron Herman: ‘Sharpen Your Handsaws’&lt;/a&gt; from Chris Schwarz on Popular Woodworking&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last four on YouTube:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UA5DixEaaUo&quot;&gt;How to Sharpen a Woodworking Handsaw&lt;/a&gt; by Paul Sellers&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmHPyh-M_Oc&quot;&gt;Sharpening the Frame Saw&lt;/a&gt; by Paul Sellers&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F72FBPfrgDE&quot;&gt;Saws Part 1: Saw Techniques &amp;amp; Sharpening a Rip Saw&lt;/a&gt; from Lie-Nielsen Toolworks&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tLzbTOPn5d8&quot;&gt;Saws Part 2: Sharpening a Cross Cut Saw &amp;amp; Setting the Teeth&lt;/a&gt; Lie-Nielsen Toolworks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T11:54:16.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3870" CreationDate="2016-04-20T03:06:45.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Learning how to sharpen the blade is the biggest factor. It takes a lot of practice. The sharpness of the saw makes a huge difference in its performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Microcorrosion is a big factor. You can prevent corrosion by using an alkaline paste. Mix beeswax, mineral oil and sodium hydroxide to make a paste and wax the blade with it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T03:06:45.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3879" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-20T11:50:42.100" Score="6" ViewCount="1388" Body="&lt;p&gt;I didn't even know this was a thing. Then I read comments in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3877/recommended-saw-tools-when-cutting-pallets-and-basic-carving-projects&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Worm drive saws are long and unwieldy for all but the burliest of men. I found them a real pain to work with. A Makita is a nicely-balanced tool and will last a woodworker 200 years. We used them like rental cars for years with nothing more than motor brush and cord changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I aspire to be a burly man on occasion. What is the difference between a worm drive and sidewinder drive circular saws? Do each lend better to certain applications? What do I need to know to use each properly? Are there other types where modern circular saws are concerned?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2019-05-05T15:18:29.533" Title="What is the difference between a worm and sidewinder drive circular saws?" Tags="|power-tools|tool-selection|circular-saw|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3880" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3883" CreationDate="2016-04-20T12:43:05.703" Score="7" ViewCount="22965" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0TvD5oAMyc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DIY shelving project&lt;/a&gt; that interests me and am setting about researching the best place to obtain the wood required for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this project, and others I have seen, the American instructor commonly refers to the wood in use by the size, either 2 by 4 or 1 by 2 (only 2 sizes are used in this project).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know from reading around that size wise this would roughly equate to the UK's 44 x 96 and 25 x 44 but it is my belief that in the US if someone refers to 'Using a bit of 2 x 4' then more is understood than just the size. It is also known what the type of wood it is, the cut, whether it is sawn / planned and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does the UK have a piece of wood that is universally commonly used for hobby / domestic projects that it is simple referred to by a common name and is this typically a suitable substitute for the US 2 x 4? If so is there a common place to purchase this wood (B&amp;amp;Q, Wickes, etc)?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If location makes a difference, I am located in northeast Scotland.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2157" LastEditorUserId="2157" LastEditDate="2017-08-04T12:45:22.437" LastActivityDate="2017-08-04T12:45:22.437" Title="What would be the UK equivalent of the common US 2 by 4 (not just by size)" Tags="|wood-selection|lumber|measurement|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3881" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3885" CreationDate="2016-04-20T12:50:06.950" Score="8" ViewCount="1215" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a poor-man's rebate plane following the approach shown by Paul Sellers in his &lt;a href=&quot;https://paulsellers.com/2015/11/pauls-poor-mans-rebate-plane-on-yt/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;blog&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yTuOtmlRhAI&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8T0Lp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8T0Lp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is made from pine (construction timber, probably spruce) so isn't likely to be accurate or durable but it seems to work&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried it out on another piece of spruce and am having a couple of problems,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uc2PG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uc2PG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I find it hard to control the depth of cut, tapping the chisel usually results in a very coarse shaving.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rebate depth is hard to control to get uniform depth from end to end, I guess I need to add a depth stop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The side wall tends to be very rough and has some shreds of shaving attached.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My reason for making this was to see if it would serve as a plough plane to make a new frame for a garden cold-frame. I need to make a housing (dado) to hold the plastic glazing. Since this isn't fine furniture I'm not too concerned but I do have the same problems I'd like to eliminate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kVei8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kVei8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Teqt8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Teqt8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's some early coarse shavings and some newer thinner ones&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y5Nfy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y5Nfy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zDBXl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zDBXl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I improve the results I get?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="158" LastEditorUserId="158" LastEditDate="2016-04-20T16:54:44.330" LastActivityDate="2023-11-25T20:11:59.973" Title="Technique for using a &quot;poor-man's rebate plane&quot;" Tags="|technique|plane|traditional-techniques|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3879" CreationDate="2016-04-20T12:52:06.657" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Worm drives use a worm gear to connect the motor to the blade. Generally speaking, they are more powerful than direct drive saws where the motor drives the blade directly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are also larger, heavier and more expensive than direct drive models. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of them like a cabinet table saw versus a contractor table saw. Both will get the job done but one will last longer and be up to tougher tasks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of contractors prefer direct drive since they are lighter and smaller. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T12:52:06.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3880" CreationDate="2016-04-20T13:16:32.087" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does the UK have a piece of wood that is universally commonly used for hobby / domestic projects that it is simple referred to by a common name and is this typically a suitable substitute for the US 2 x 4?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCc3EpWncNq5QL0QhwUNQb7w&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Paul Sellers&lt;/a&gt; is any yardstick for how things are done in the UK, you use a 2x4 in the same sense that Americans would.  There are plenty of instances where Imperial units are used in the UK instead of metric, and this is one case for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/444/what-are-framing-dimensions-like-in-the-metric-world&quot;&gt;This question&lt;/a&gt; on DIY.SE also discusses this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I know from reading around that size wise this would roughly equate to the UK's 44 x 96 and 25 x 44&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One weird thing about dimensional lumber is that the size (ex. 2x4) is &lt;em&gt;nominal&lt;/em&gt;, meaning that it's only the approximate size.  For example, a 2x4 is actually 1.5&quot; x 3.5&quot; (38mm x 89mm) in cross-section.  There are various rules depending on the size of the member, so check out Table 1B of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.awc.org/pdf/codes-standards/publications/nds/AWC-NDS2015-Supplement-ViewOnly-1411.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;NDS Supplement&lt;/a&gt; for Standard Dressed Size (of North American dimensional lumber, at least).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If so is there a common place to purchase this wood (B&amp;amp;Q, Wickes, etc)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a regional thing, and really outside the scope of this SE.  However, any large home improvement store &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; have dimensional lumber for sale.  I don't know what your local UK stores are, so I can't help you there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-04-20T13:21:50.333" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T13:21:50.333" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3879" CreationDate="2016-04-20T13:17:07.443" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with what Steven has to say. Unless you're routinely cutting 2&quot; thick oak or hickory slabs, a modern direct-drive saw is likely more appropriate. Equipped with a sharp, suitable blade it will cut nearly any wood workpiece with ease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clarify my quote in the question, worm-drive saws should be considered two-handed tools for most folks. That usually means that your workpiece should be clamped or secured to keep it stable. Direct-drive saws are more easily operated with one hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2116" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T13:17:07.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3881" CreationDate="2016-04-20T13:34:32.070" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How can I improve the results I get?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on your pictures, I surmise that it's due to a combination of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your chisel not being sharp enough,&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Planing against the grain,&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Not having the edge of your chisel slightly proud of the side of the plane body, and&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Taking too thick of a shaving with each pass.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I find it hard to control the depth of cut, tapping the chisel usually results in a very coarse shaving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the nature of wooden planes.  They take a bit of fiddling to get set right.  Once you get the depth of cut set correctly, it should glide through spruce with no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shavings in your first updated picture are much thicker than I would look for if you're going for a fine finish.  If you're just trying to hog off wood, those thick shavings are probably ok, but your surface finish will be worse off as a result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The rebate depth is hard to control to get uniform depth from end to end, I guess I need to add a depth stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A depth stop would help you get a consistent depth of cut.  However, it can be a crutch that keeps you from developing the proper technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also mark lines on your piece to shoot for the correct depth and just keep cutting until you get to that depth across the entire cut.  This will probably result in you having to work only parts of the cut at a time when things get uneven, but again, this is the nature of wooden planes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The side wall tends to be very rough and has some shreds of shaving attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See numbers 1-3 above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-04-20T17:11:49.637" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T17:11:49.637" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3887" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4429" CreationDate="2016-04-20T22:46:10.583" Score="0" ViewCount="4657" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen people make raised panel doors out of one piece of MDF. I've also seen a professional machine make a shaker door out of one piece. But is it feasible for someone to make one with a handheld router? Would the inset middle area be smooth? If so, what type of bit would be best?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2057" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-04-20T23:06:40.110" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T03:40:19.800" Title="Can you make shaker doors out of one piece of MDF?" Tags="|tool-selection|wood-selection|router|router-bit|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3888" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3895" CreationDate="2016-04-20T23:08:43.420" Score="5" ViewCount="1263" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am pretty new at wood and have acquired a large piece of live edge wood that has some bark still attached.  Its pretty loose so I have been carefully removing it but am unsure how to sand it prior to applying the livos finish I got with it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I sand an irregular edge to the same smoothness as the planed edges of my piece?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2162" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T10:31:09.563" Title="sanding a live edge" Tags="|sanding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3889" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-20T23:20:33.217" Score="4" ViewCount="518" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been up and down the internet looking for a solution for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a bit of spalted maple that I want to finish in oil.  It has some critter holes and a split that need to be filled.  I would like to fill them with black filler but am having an issue finding something that will fill it and not seep into the surrounding wood pores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried coffee and CA glue, but it seemed coarse to me, and it spills over into the other parts of the piece.  Grinding the grinds to make them mades the CA flow all over the surface of the work.  PC-Woody, which might take some colours well did not take black mica or charcoal without needing way too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know a good black filler I can use that wont run into the rest of my project?  I'm not looking for much here just a clean demarcation from the wood to the black filler; shiny or matte does not matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2162" LastActivityDate="2016-07-02T14:35:02.130" Title="filling cracks in tables" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3889" CreationDate="2016-04-21T00:30:14.773" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably the best all-around filler is epoxy.  Most epoxies will dry to an off-white color but they can be tinted to better match the wood.  Depending on the texture you are going for, there are a variety of additives that can be mixed in to change the texture and composition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;West System epoxies are pretty common and a lot of woodworkers use them, though any two-part epoxy will do the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T00:30:14.773" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3879" CreationDate="2016-04-21T01:18:21.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Funny, I'm left handed and a relative featherweight, and I love my hypoid saw. (Brief diversion: among the things tagged as worm drive there are the classic Skil brand saws that are actually worm drives and require regular oiling, and Makita makes a hypoid that offers slightly less torque than a WD but is more efficient and thus doesn't cook the oil in the gear case. So you never need to change the oil in the hypoid.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, back to the question. WD saws get the burly tag because they're heavier than sidewinders. If you think that gravity can be used to your advantage, then a bit of weight could be considered a good thing. My personal opinion is that they track better because of the weight and partly because the handle is behind (rather than above) the blade. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As noted, I'm a staunch lefty, and I don't have a problem with the blade-motor relationship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think geography has a lot to do with what saw you end up using. WDs are popular on the west coast of the US. When I lived in Ontario, my hypoid was an outlier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Application-wise, I can't think of anything that one saw would clearly do better than the other. If you were cutting stair stringers, it might be nice to have one of each style on hand, but that's getting pretty esoteric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as things to know about saws, there's not a lot of difference between them: control the saw and control your workpiece. Wear protective equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T01:18:21.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3892" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3893" CreationDate="2016-04-21T01:58:56.680" Score="4" ViewCount="3040" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally my sand paper lasts a day or so with palm sanding, is there something I can do to make it last longer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2162" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T19:25:25.803" Title="how can I make sandpaper last longer?" Tags="|sanding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3892" CreationDate="2016-04-21T10:06:10.423" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sandpaper is a consumable, and in fact people should be encouraged to discard it more readily as it's very common — and not just with amateur woodworkers :-) — to use paper until it's worn out and no longer cutting as it should. Using worn paper doesn't give uniform results and of course has a reduced cutting action, directly leading to many of the issues people experience when sanding as they try to compensate for the slower results e.g. by pressing harder, which is always something to be avoided.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can't diagnose the situation in your case properly without more details than you've provided. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The type of wood you're working (harder woods v. softer woods, resinous v. non-resinous) and the type of sandpaper you're using have a pronounced impact on what you can expect of your abrasive. But perhaps most important of all is &lt;em&gt;the area of wood you're working&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're working softwoods, these have resins in them that are well known for clogging paper so yours may not just be worn but also clogged (see related Question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1876/what-are-these-brown-spots-on-my-sandpaper&quot;&gt;What are these brown spots on my sandpaper?&lt;/a&gt;). One additional tip is to dust down regularly, to remove any excess sanding dust that may be on the surface. Even with a sander hooked up to dust extraction this can help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your paper is actually wearing out it may be because it's of lesser quality, where the abrasive particles are bonded to the paper backing with less resin/glue or with a weaker one (cheaper glues tend to let go when they warm up in use). Even when sanding by hand the difference between a quality paper and a cheap paper can be remarkable, you can easily sand for five times longer with a good paper compared to something cheap. A really excellent paper will outlast the low-end competition by a factor of ten or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting &quot;a day or so&quot; from your paper unfortunately doesn't tell us how much sanding you're actually doing. This could equate with working periodically throughout the day, sanding a bit then doing something else, but you might be production-sanding panels nearly continuously and obviously the wear on the paper would be completely different. In the first case a day would usually be less than you should realistically expect, but in the second case you'd be doing very well :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of what part of the above might apply to you I think you might want to look into Abranet, made by Mirka. This is not your granddad's sandpaper. New users seem to universally be instant converts and specifically rave about how long it lasts, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/anarchists-2015-gift-guide-day-10-abranet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here's Chris Schwarz waxing lyrical about it&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T14:01:39.217" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3889" CreationDate="2016-04-21T10:14:18.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very related previous Question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3807/large-hole-filler-products-what-is-available&quot;&gt;Large hole filler products, what is available&lt;/a&gt;. I think &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/3809/128&quot;&gt;my answer there&lt;/a&gt; should be all you need to move forward with testing out epoxy for your application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Epoxy &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; seep into adjacent areas at any sort of liquid consistency. You can mix it up thicker as mentioned in the link above, to any consistency from peanut butter to a thick paste, but the thicker you make it the harder it is to ensure you have no voids or pockets within the material or at the edges, which can be revealed when you plane, pare or sand the filler flush with the surrounding wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T22:20:18.327" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3888" CreationDate="2016-04-21T10:31:09.563" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How can I sand an irregular edge to the same smoothness as the planed edges of my piece?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short answer is you you don't. You can sand a live edge (UK: waney edge) if you want, but there's no reason you have to and many people want that natural surface as a contrast to the machined surfaces and edges. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to smooth it out somewhat instead of sanding, which tends to level off high spots, the usual recommendation is to use a &lt;em&gt;conformable abrasive&lt;/em&gt;, the two main choices being steel wool and nylon abrasive pads such as Scotch-Brite. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case you want to dust down thoroughly afterwards (don't be afraid to vacuum as well) but you have to pay particular attention with steel wool as the tiny flakes of steel can be harder to see in grain and other recesses before finishing, but after the finish goes on you'll spot little sparkles from any you missed without any difficulty! Additionally over time they can rust and discolour the surrounding wood due to a reaction between iron and tannins that may be present in the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T10:31:09.563" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3805" CreationDate="2016-04-21T15:36:43.203" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lee Valley sells &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=50303&amp;amp;cat=3,43740,43742&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ratcheting Folding Brackets&lt;/a&gt; that I think do what you are looking for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.leevalley.com/en/images/item/hardware/fasteners/00t0410s3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bracket Image&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From their site:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These folding brackets lock in place when lifted, and can be used for reclining chairs or folding tables. Lift again, and they release to fold down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The smaller 175mm (6.9&amp;quot;) wide bracket has six stop positions, while the larger 245mm (9.6&amp;quot;) wide has eight. The range of motion depends on how close they are to the pivot point, but the maximum operating arc on the small bracket is 95° from horizontal; the large has a maximum of 112°. Both will fold closed to a thickness of just over 2&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T15:39:17.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3879" CreationDate="2016-04-21T17:01:53.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have worm drive and sidewinder saws, biggest difference for me is that the worm drive saws are narrow, since it does not have the motor sticking out the side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The worm drive spins at a slightly lower rpm but both saw types seem equally powerful, at least with my 15 amp milwaukee and skil saws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="453" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T17:01:53.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3879" CreationDate="2016-04-22T04:15:57.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have said, &quot;direct drive&quot; usually has the motor to the left of the blade, and &quot;worm drive&quot; is heavier (and more robust), with the motor to the right of the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture that may help:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RAKlY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RAKlY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;from this page:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://charlesandhudson.com/what_type_of_circular_saw_do_you_use_sidewinder_or_worm_drive/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://charlesandhudson.com/what_type_of_circular_saw_do_you_use_sidewinder_or_worm_drive/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2160" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2019-05-05T15:18:29.533" LastActivityDate="2019-05-05T15:18:29.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3900" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-22T13:11:09.263" Score="6" ViewCount="1427" Body="&lt;p&gt;Below you can see a picture of a patio prep cart that I'm building for my brother. I would like to make a few design changes to the plan but I'm not sure if it would have some unforeseen negative effect down the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IVKd8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IVKd8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;patio cart&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would like to do is implement some Tudor house design features since he just bought a Tudor home to start his family in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way I would do that is by painting the trim a traditional Tudor dark brown and paint the panels a more cream color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order for that to look nice, I think I would have to do away with the 1/4&quot; gaps between the boards. Or maybe just use a piece of plywood. But, I'm worried that maybe the gaps are there on purpose, maybe allowing the cart to have airflow is needed? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell if eliminating the gaps between the boards on the siding might somehow hurt the integrity of this patio prep cart? If it makes a difference, I plan on using cedar for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2075" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-04-22T14:44:12.210" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T15:35:24.543" Title="Why keep gaps in siding of outdoor furniture project?" Tags="|design|outdoor|panel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3900" CreationDate="2016-04-22T14:01:51.573" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would like to do is implement some Tudor house design features since he just bought a Tudor home to start his family in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those unfamiliar with the Tudor style of house (as I was), here's an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k6u5N.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k6u5N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;tudor&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trianglehousehunter.com/tudors/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way I would do that is by painting the trim a traditional Tudor dark brown and paint the panels a more cream color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order for that to look nice, I think I would have to do away with the 1/4&amp;quot; gaps between the boards. Or maybe just use a piece of plywood. But, I'm worried that maybe the gaps are there on purpose, maybe allowing the cart to have airflow is needed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the hinged door on the left side, it likely doesn't matter too much if it's made a solid panel.  I'm assuming that anything that would be kept in that cupboard long-term would be non-food and thus not caring if it had ventilation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the side with the fridge, I would just make the back of the cart vented to allow the fridge waste heat to escape.  You could maybe make it latticed like a trellis to dress it up a bit.  Then, you can have a solid side panel to match the hinged door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ibxa5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ibxa5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;trellis&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bowerwoods.com/Trellis.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell if eliminating the gaps between the boards on the siding might somehow hurt the integrity of this patio prep cart?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eliminating the gaps should have no impact on the cart's integrity.  If you allow ventilation out the back for the fridge, it shouldn't cause any issues with overheating of the fridge, either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T14:44:25.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3900" CreationDate="2016-04-22T15:35:24.543" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell if eliminating the gaps between the boards on the siding might somehow hurt the integrity of this patio prep cart? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes there could be a pronounced effect without specific steps being taken to compensate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at the orientation of the boards on the door and the visible side panel this places the longitudinal grain horizontal. The major axis of wood movement is perpendicular to this (across the width of a board, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3441/what-is-the-maximum-width-for-a-full-cross-grain-glue-up/3533#3533&quot;&gt;most in flat-sawn, approximately half as much in quarter-sawn&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the boards are attached with a 1/4&quot; gap, this is sufficient spacing to ensure that each one moves independent of the others. But once you close up the gaps the panel can then act as though it's a single board 30&quot; across or whatever the height is here. For any species of wood the expansion and contraction for a board that width will be significant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get an estimate of the expected movement for cedar specifically (I'm assuming you mean western red cedar) I used &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodweb.com/cgi-bin/calculators/calc.pl?calculator=shrinkage&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the wood shrinkage calculator on Woodweb&lt;/a&gt;. Plugging in some reasonable numbers expansion from driest to wettest could be nearly 1/2&quot;, which as you can imagine must be accounted for or problems will arise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this to work on this cart each panel would have to be attached much as you might the tabletop on a side table, where the fasteners will allow movement in a chosen direction (in this case downwards). See &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/908/what-general-considerations-do-i-need-to-take-into-account-for-wood-movement/910#910&quot;&gt;previous Answer&lt;/a&gt; for more on how you might do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Or maybe just use a piece of plywood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a sheet of plywood instead would eliminate these concerns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T15:35:24.543" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3903" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-22T16:50:47.300" Score="4" ViewCount="26207" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a chest for my son. Was going to stain then assemble but have decided on the assemble, sand, stain method. However I will be gluing wooden letters to the lid of the chest and have seen many posts stating to be sure to tape off glued areas when staining (if doing the stain then assemble method) my question is why don't people glue over stained areas? Will it not hold? I don't want to have to stain around all of the letters before or after gluing. What do you guys recommend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2170" LastActivityDate="2020-07-30T15:22:20.860" Title="Can you apply wood with glue over stained areas?" Tags="|staining|glue|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3892" CreationDate="2016-04-22T17:40:52.410" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First and foremost don't buy cheap sand paper (Harbor fright), personally I like Norton 3x, but keep in mind sandpaper is a consumable product.  If it's the cost of the sandpaper that you are concerned about, have you looked at getting a card scraper setup, yes it has a bit of a start up cost, but it's a one time cost and will greatly reduce the amount of sanding you are going to need to do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1547" LastEditorUserId="1547" LastEditDate="2016-04-22T19:25:25.803" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T19:25:25.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3903" CreationDate="2016-04-22T17:47:55.630" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;my question is why don't people glue over stained areas? Will it not hold? I don't want to have to stain around all of the letters before or after gluing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Staining a piece will reduce the ability of the glue to soak into the pores of the wood and form a good glue joint.  I'll quote now from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.titebond.com/frequently_asked_questions.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Titebond&lt;/a&gt; on using their wood glues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can surfaces that have been painted or stained be bonded using Titebond Wood Glues?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of our glues are designed to bond bare wood. &lt;strong&gt;Painting or staining a wood blocks the pores, keeping the glue from penetrating into the wood.&lt;/strong&gt; The Titebond Polyurethane Glue may work for gluing together painted or stained surfaces, but it is necessary to remember that the overall bond will only be as strong as the bond between the paint and the wood. We recommend that all substrates be clean of any type of paint, stain, or sealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would apply to any polyvinyl acetate (PVA) (i.e. yellow) glue.  As noted by Titebond, polyurethane glue might hold onto stained or painted surfaces, but the bond will be tenuous at best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you guys recommend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glue first, then stain.  Or mask the areas to be glued, stain, then glue, and be sure to wipe up any squeeze-out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T17:47:55.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3903" CreationDate="2016-04-23T07:31:55.540" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few Q&amp;amp;As here with related info on bonding wood with stain or finish on it, here's another &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2813/should-i-finish-before-during-or-after-assembly&quot;&gt;Should I finish before, during, or after assembly?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the specifics of your build here I don't see this as a duplicate however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I don't want to have to stain around all of the letters before or after gluing. What do you guys recommend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would do is stain the chest, and the letters separately if they are also to be stained, &lt;em&gt;and finish both separately also&lt;/em&gt; (but don't get finish on the back of the letters if you can avoid it). Because of the glueing procedure I'm going to suggest you don't need to worry about the normal problems of glue not bonding to finished surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're going to be glueing using epoxy. I would recommend you use one with at least a 10-minute setting time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Position each letter on the chest and lightly draw around with a soft coloured pencil or chalk.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Inside these marked perimeters drill a few small shallow holes (1/16&quot; or 1.5mm is sufficient). This will expose fresh wood and give physical texture for the epoxy to cling to.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you got finish on the back of the letters score them deeply with a sharp awl or a boxcutter, being careful to avoid marring their edges.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dribble epoxy into the drilled holes. Don't be neat here, you want a little epoxy sitting on the surface as well.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Spread a little epoxy on the back of each letter and then position it, press down and give a little wiggle to seat it and squeeze out any excess glue.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Now leave the letters alone for the epoxy to harden. You don't need to clamp them in place, if you do want to add some weight on top of each be very careful they don't slip out of position. Glue is very lubricative and given the slightest chance the letters will slip a bit I promise you.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the finish applied to the wood already the epoxy squeeze-out will be very easy to wipe away and any slight traces left behind won't be visible as they would be if not removed thoroughly from the bare wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T07:31:55.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3908" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-23T12:23:02.323" Score="4" ViewCount="1720" Body="&lt;p&gt;This tool is about 5-1/2 inches long including the handle. The tool has a &quot;V&quot; shape. The outer metal sides of the V are beveled on top, with sharp outer edges. The V is bent about 15 degrees or so at the point where its two sides join (and join with the top piece).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was found with some other tools of my parents. I don't recall seeing it used though. I'm guessing it could be sharp enough to be a small plane for woodworking, or a carving tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uYZbk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uYZbk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Top View of Tool&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BYfQY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BYfQY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close-up of tool&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8wDgb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8wDgb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8wDgb.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2174" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T16:27:16.410" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T02:02:18.393" Title="Is this small hand tool with a heart-shaped end a woodworking tool?" Tags="|hand-tools|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2016-06-12T15:10:51.387" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3870" CreationDate="2016-04-23T13:21:05.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, I was primarily referring to...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;properly cleaning the blade with a mild solvent as detailed by Graphus in his answer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;storing the blade properly--i.e., not banging it around or throwing it in a drawer full of other loose bits and blades, which could damage and dull the teeth&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Treow and aaron also make good points about protecting the blade against corrosion and understanding any limitations or extra wear when cutting different materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T13:21:05.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3910" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-23T16:33:37.543" Score="2" ViewCount="47" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at starting some small wood carving projects as a hobby and would like to know if anybody has any tips regarding what tools I should buy, or what they've had good experience with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had a look on amazon but I don't want to go ahead and buy some tools off the internet if they're not going to be good enough!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2175" LastEditorUserId="2175" LastEditDate="2016-04-23T16:39:44.183" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T16:39:44.183" Title="Beginner wood carving tools" Tags="|hand-tools|tool-selection|carving|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-04-24T11:50:29.033" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3911" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3914" CreationDate="2016-04-24T02:43:26.720" Score="3" ViewCount="731" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a router planer setup to make all my boards flat. Just putting that on here so every body understands why I ask what I do... As for the question, I have a project in progress which has screws coming in from the bottom (sanded flat with the wood). I want to make it flat for which some boards are a little higher than others. For the screws I am worried that if I use the wrong bit I will wreck a nice router bit, and risk my safety. What would be recommended for this (what can handle about 2 dozen screws spaced out). I have Carbide tipped straight, and solid carbide CNC router bit. If these are a bad choice what should I get, HSS bits? Note: This thing is 4' by 2' 4&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T09:25:59.337" Title="What router bit type should I use on screws?" Tags="|router|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3887" CreationDate="2016-04-24T02:46:38.253" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not the best idea, you should try to maybe cut it into 3&quot; strips and glue it back which should keep it from warping. You could go ahead but I am sure it is going to warp unless you do something about it. Nothing else to say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T16:29:35.623" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T16:29:35.623" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3908" CreationDate="2016-04-24T02:48:56.187" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As in the comments it looks more like a gardening tool, the metal going to the tip looks to thin, and it does look sharp. I would say, if you wanted, go take a random piece of wood and see if it removes anything. But I am sure it is a gardening tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T02:48:56.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3911" CreationDate="2016-04-24T04:15:53.983" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think there are any woodworking router bits that were designed to handle metal screws in the wood being cut. Carbide bits will certainly cut the screws (as carbide is much harder than the steel in the screws) but the screws will definitely chip the cutters on the bits. HSS probably won't fair all that well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might consider trying metalworking CNC bits, though I'm not sure about the quality of the finish on the wood with these bits. Also make sure to use the correct speed on the router for these bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, the best approach would be to remove all screws, process the wood and then screw it back. If you need the screws to hold the shape of the wood, consider clamping (if possible with the orientation of the cut) or gluing with hot-melt glue/double sided tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A final thought is to countersink the screws more deeply, so that the router bit won't touch the screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T04:15:53.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3915" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3920" CreationDate="2016-04-24T16:16:03.043" Score="9" ViewCount="21845" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a nice bit I would love to get/use but it uses a 6mm shank. My router uses 1/4 inch shank. It is a 0.014 inch difference...is it a bad idea to get this? Is there an adapter or something if not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the comments on an answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My router is a Performax trim router, there is 1/4 collect and 3/8 collect. Not sure of the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T15:50:47.433" LastActivityDate="2021-11-04T18:34:46.913" Title="Can I use a 6mm shank in a 1/4 inch collet?" Tags="|power-tools|router|router-bit|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3915" CreationDate="2016-04-24T16:32:52.133" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You NEED a different collet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your router could be spinning the bit at 20,000 rpm. Ignoring the possibility of damaging your work piece, the personal risk is extremely high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: On @AstPace's good suggestion, I've added a couple of relevant points from the comments trail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As this router also has a 3/8&quot; collet, you could use an adapter to get down to a 6mm shank. Now, adapters aren't great, as they're one more thing that can go wrong, but if you were desperate, you can find a 3/8&quot; &gt; 6mm adapter &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.elairecorp.com/colletadapter.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(It's much easier to find adapters for 1/2&quot; collets, but I digress.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most obvious thing would be to find the cutter you want in a shank size you can easily use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-04-26T21:21:24.713" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T21:21:24.713" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3915" CreationDate="2016-04-24T17:40:01.020" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It doesn't look like there is a commercial adapter available for this. The smallest I could find are 1/4&quot; to 4 mm. This makes sense due to the wall thickness of a 1/4&quot; to 6 mm adapter would be just 0.175 mm (about 11/64&quot;) thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best option would be to find a 6 mm collet for your router (if available).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T17:40:01.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3918" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-24T22:35:47.067" Score="3" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to woodworking and paint finishes and have been trying to find the most cost- and time-effective way to redo this piece but also give stunning results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pCFCI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pCFCI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;armoire&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has a yellowed pine finish and I am unsure what steps to take. There are also some marks where it looks like a dog chewed on the bottom as well and not sure how to deal with these. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, do I have to sand the entire piece and what is best way to achieve this look:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nycbx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nycbx.png&quot; alt=&quot;look&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I paint with grey and then use a gel stain, or do I have to do something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-04-25T15:01:26.270" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T15:01:26.270" Title="Do I need to sand, condition, prime etc and what paint and stain is best to finish my Armoire?" Tags="|finishing|wood|paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3918" CreationDate="2016-04-25T10:38:18.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do I need to sand, condition, prime etc and what paint and stain is best to finish my Armoire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some sanding will be required to prep the surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there's a film finish on the wood (varnish or a type of lacquer) it should probably be removed to give the best results, using a chemical stripper ideally. You can remove finish just with sandpaper but I don't recommend it, and it's nearly impossible to do on and around mouldings anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't need to 'condition'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There are also some marks where it looks like a dog chewed on the bottom as well and not sure how to deal with these. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those would be tricky to hide completely even if you were painting the piece a solid colour, where the general procedure for the first-timer would be to use a commercial wood filler of some kind and then smoothing off by sanding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the finish you're looking to do the damage is likely to remain quite visible if tackled in this way I'm afraid. Replacement of the damaged wood with fresh wood is possibly the only entirely satisfactory solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can I paint with grey and then use a gel stain or???? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes you can. Gel stain brushed on and then with the excess wiped off using clean rags might give an effect quite like what you're looking for. The paint would need to be a lighter grey I think, but off-white might work OK depending on the gel stain you use and how it interacts with the paint. The gel stain should be black I'd say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If using a waterbased paint under the varnish (gel stain is a type of varnish despite its name) allow ample time for the paint to dry, at least a day would be good and longer if it's cold and/or damp where you are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T10:38:18.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3915" CreationDate="2016-04-25T10:49:55.193" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short: &lt;strong&gt;No, no, no&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can technically do this, unluckily, but it is &lt;strong&gt;highly inadvisable&lt;/strong&gt;. It is a pity that it just looks like one could do it (1/2'' is not far off compared to 12mm, and 1/4'' is even closer to 6mm) and that with some luck, it indeed &lt;em&gt;seems&lt;/em&gt; to &quot;work just fine&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is true for the other way around, too. You can hardly tell a difference with the naked eye, and the bits will fit in &quot;just fine&quot; either way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen people do it, too, and they so far got away without accident or even physical injury. (Which makes the whole matter worse because that &quot;proves&quot; that it works.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, using an imperial bit in the corresponding (well, almost corresponding) metric collet is dangerous &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt; during the operation &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; when using the collet with your 6mm bits as intended afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens is that you irreversibly widen your collet by a tiny amount (too small to see, but certainly enough to be on the dangerous side). If you are unlucky, the whole thing blows to smithereens at 25k RPM with shrapnel flying all over the place and the bit come off flying in a random direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are lucky it &quot;works fine&quot;, but now the collet no longer grips the original bits firmly and safely, so you have the risk of a bit flying away in a random direction every time you use the tool &quot;properly&quot; with the correct bits. Plus, you never know if the collet isn't going to break a month or two later, anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same is true for the opposite case, using a metric bit in an imperial collet. Only in this case, you force the clamps together much more than originally intended. There is a bit of tolerance, so you can certainly fasten the screw harshly enough to do those extra 0.3 millimeters. But it's not what the tool manufacturer intended you to do, or planned in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bit isn't going to have a sufficiently firm, safe grip, and you cannot be sure whether you have structurally damaged the collet by bending the little clamps too harshly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="135" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2018-11-20T14:14:58.133" LastActivityDate="2018-11-20T14:14:58.133" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3921" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-25T11:56:20.070" Score="5" ViewCount="2697" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a built-in that I made using 3/4&quot; plywood and face-frame construction. I sanded one one section (it comes apart) and then primed it. The grain raised, as was expected. My question is, since the grain raises and I have to re-sand it anyway, do I really need to sand it before priming?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a sanded birch plywood, but not super smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using Sherwin-Williams &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/products/catalog/premium_wall_wood_primer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Premium Wall and Wood Primer&lt;/a&gt; and ProClassic Paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2179" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T10:59:00.073" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T10:59:00.073" Title="Sand before priming plywood built-in" Tags="|finishing|surface-preparation|ros|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3921" CreationDate="2016-04-25T13:59:13.217" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My question is, since the grain raises and I have to re-sand it anyway, do I really need to sand it before priming?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Birch has a tendency to be a bit stringy even after sanding, so this could be what you're experiencing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're painting, you can probably get away with a less-smooth surface than if you were using a film finish like clear polyurethane.  The paint will mask some of the surface irregularities a bit better.  I would still do a nominal amount of sanding before painting to smooth things out a bit and give the paint a better surface with which to adhere.  Then, sand between coats of primer/paint to knock back any raised grain, like you've done already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, one trick you can use is to &quot;pre-wet&quot; the surface before you sand, which will raise the grain.  This way, you should be able to knock down the grain with the sanding operation and it won't re-raise when you paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This trick also works for other wood finishes like stain and varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T13:59:13.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3908" CreationDate="2016-04-25T13:59:41.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks very similar to a winged weeder&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1wUkF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1wUkF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or a heart-shaped hoe&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MlCtG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MlCtG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="158" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T13:59:41.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3924" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3926" CreationDate="2016-04-25T15:33:53.960" Score="3" ViewCount="661" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a sculpture (of a gibbon swinging on a branch) which will be made of wood and wax with a wire armature, and I'm trying to figure out how to anchor my armature to the branch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a quick drawing of the intended setup:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M5WL8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M5WL8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Diagram of construction&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The branch is a natural, hardwood branch, about 3/4&quot; in diameter and about 10&quot; long. It's quite strong. One end of the branch will be anchored in a block of wood. Somewhat close to the other end I need to attach a strong wire armature, which needs to be able to hold, say, 8-10 ounces of wax altogether. The tricky bit is the angle: I need that wire to come out from the branch at a 45-or-so-degree angle as shown above, and since it'll have the weight of the wax pulling down on it, it has to be anchored very sturdily in the branch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current thought is cutting a channel in the top of the branch from the point where the armature attaches heading toward the anchor, so the wire would poke through the branch, be bent and then run through the channel; fill the channel with epoxy or something, and paint over the top. It's less than perfect because I'd love to preserve the bark... also, the actual cutting of the channel doesn't seem very easy at all to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question, then: Is the wire-in-the-channel idea the best option? If so, how should I go about cutting that channel? Or, is there a better way to do this that I haven't thought of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2181" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-04-25T15:52:43.880" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T16:20:18.230" Title="Sculpture: Anchor a wire armature to a natural wood branch" Tags="|technique|tools|natural-wood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3924" CreationDate="2016-04-25T16:10:54.293" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My current thought is cutting a channel in the top of the branch from the point where the armature attaches heading toward the anchor, so the wire would poke through the branch, be bent and then run through the channel; fill the channel with epoxy or something, and paint over the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're very careful and have a very sharp knife, you may be able to cut a slot in the bark and peel it back prior to forming your channel.  If your branch is pretty dry, you'll want to soak the area in water or steam it for a while to make the bark pliable again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, when you have the slot cut and the armature epoxied into place, you can unroll the bark back into place and glue it down.  If done properly, it should hold up pretty well to scrutiny.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another solution along the lines above, but this may be a bit stronger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bend a hook in the end of your wire after feeding it through the hole in the branch.  Hook the wire through another hole adjacent to the first hole.  You could epoxy this as well for strength, but it probably won't need it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can cover it up using the same method peeled bark method as above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T16:10:54.293" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3924" CreationDate="2016-04-25T16:20:18.230" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do this possibly the most obvious way: drilling a hole and simply glueing in the end of the wire. This is not much different in principle to fixing the tang of a knife or chisel into its handle using glue and those can be amazingly secure (enough that you may have to break the handle to get the blade out). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few glues you could use here, I'd recommend epoxy. Even the cheapest 5-min epoxy should work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some things to help ensure a good bond: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Just prior to applying the glue freshly scratch up the surface of the wire, using fine sandpaper or Scotch-Brite, or a metal file.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Drill the hole very slightly oversize, you don't want the wire to be a very tight fit into its hole (too little room around it for the epoxy).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't skimp on epoxy. Expect to have excess that you'll need to wipe away from where the wire goes into the hole. Dampening the cloth or paper towel with alcohol or acetone will greatly help here.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wait much longer than the setting time before putting any strain on the wire. If the epoxy sets in just five minutes I'd wait at least a few hours, but overnight won't do any harm.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T16:20:18.230" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2403" CreationDate="2016-04-25T22:50:41.923" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The diamond stone with holes in the diamond surface will usher away the metal shaved off the blade and thus makes the sharpening process faster. It is also easier to clean up. However it is less suitable for pointy tools such as needles or awls as they could dig into the edges. For those tools continuous surface is better.&#xA;For regular stuff like knives both kind of stones do a good job and is a matter of preference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2186" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T22:50:41.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3805" CreationDate="2016-04-25T23:24:38.123" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have come to the conclusion that the hardware you are looking for is not proprietary but not easily accessible to the general public as of yet. Even if it is it is definitely not widely marketed as someone would have found it by now. My wife told me I have been looking at too many beach chairs so I have at least some credibility when it comes to this hardware availability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those pictures appear to be your own as looking them up got me pictures of gun stocks and boats and rigging. So... not helpful there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So, a lot of Googling&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an attempt to find them I have been using the combinations of the following words:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;sliding, arm, chair, beach, lounger, hardware, brass, steel, rivet, positional, 4, four, tray (for a little bit when I though I found something similar), oak, track, channel, lock, locking, hinge. adjustable, folding, bagel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These just brought me round and round. Every corner I thought I was getting close but I was mostly going in different circles. Reverse imaging helped but again the end result was the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Suppliers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The start of forward momentum comes that this chair is apparently available through many manufacturers. Likely they are from the same template or root supplier but either way they are out there. These are the ones I found that appear unique enough. There were more but some appeared to be cookie cuttered from others. I chose the &quot;main&quot; ones from these groups based on how often I ran into them. In no particular order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.30agear.com/products/30a-beach-chair-with-legrest&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;30agear.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sunrisechairco.com/products/beach-chair-only&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sunrisechairco.com&lt;/a&gt; - This was one of the more informative ones as it claims to have sourced the parts in the US. Also it refers to the hardware in question as &quot;rust proof brass hinges and rivets&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wayfair.ca/Frankford-Umbrellas-Oak-Wood-Beach-Chair-FC101XX-FUM1049.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wayfair.ca&lt;/a&gt; - These are called Frankford Beach Chairs according to Walmart, Amazon and Wayfair.ca&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are all the same picture and therefore the same &lt;em&gt;base&lt;/em&gt; product. I am sure there are minor changes between them but I can show you one and you won't be able to link it to one of those suppliers I am sure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other pictures of the hardware&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this help you or other I have found several different angles of the hardware in question. I am confident they are all the same mechanism. Some are of a different make up but the design is the same. Namely I have found some that are brass or steel by description:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the images have been shrunk as to not take up too much space. Should blow up fine when you click on them. I know I have another one but I need to scour my temp for it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Bzry.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Bzrys.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hinge&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sunrisechairco.com/products/beach-chair-only&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sunrisechairco.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LkwSA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LkwSAs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Parts description&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sunrisechairco.com/products/beach-chair-only&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sunrisechairco.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other options to consider&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are willing to break the one you have I would be curious if there were manufacture marks are the hidden sides of the hinge. The thing comes apart in at least 3 pieces. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are willing to contact manufacturers it is possible that one of them could get you the information your are looking for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-04-25T23:57:39.230" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T23:57:39.230" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3929" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3931" CreationDate="2016-04-26T00:26:22.390" Score="6" ViewCount="11982" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend got me an electric hand held planer that he thought I could use to help clean pallet boards faster then what I was doing. For the most part it has sat in the box. Until recently though when I started using it to clean boards edges. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have several 2x12 pine boards that I wanted to get the paint of off and preferred hand tool / muscle methods but I found myself losing patience when I realized the amount of work involved when looking at the pile (I should not care so much for pine). So I thought about giving my hand held planer a try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It worked very well for getting the paint off and I checked the blades frequently to be sure they were not getting clogged or gummed (they were not in any case). I was having a huge issue keeping the work relatively flat. No matter how hard I tried the planer would be at some sort of angle and cut into wood on one side more that the other (usually the side opposite of me).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I have a clean board now but it looks like ass. At least now I know that I can put it through a thickness planer with less worry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts as to what I was doing wrong or ignoring that what I should be doing right? It might not be the right tool for the job but it is what was available. I had it set &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; low so as to not burn it out and took many passes and moved onto the next section (that in itself might have been the issue).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-04-26T12:56:45.390" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T14:54:48.913" Title="Are there any tips when working a large surface with an handheld electric planer?" Tags="|technique|power-tools|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2403" CreationDate="2016-04-26T07:41:58.090" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems the other answers so far have all been hobbyists who use their diamond stones occasionally, which is fine (though I may be wrong!), but I can speak from the perspective of using these stones in a commercial environment: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I work for a joinery shop with ~15 full time joiners. For our sharpening needs we have a Tormek grinding/honing wheel, plus a set of three DMT-style (unsure of actual make) diamond stones with the plastic circles like this one: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.buybrandtools.com/acatalog/DMT_Diamond_Whetstones_Set_6in.html?gclid=CJSGgvLjq8wCFQoTGwodckECMg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.buybrandtools.com/acatalog/DMT_Diamond_Whetstones_Set_6in.html?gclid=CJSGgvLjq8wCFQoTGwodckECMg&lt;/a&gt; This is a fantastic setup and I would recommend it to anybody, however I would actually recommend that if all you're sharpening is chisels (and no wider blades e.g. planes) then the Tormek system on its own is fantastic and all I typically do is grind the bevel and then hone on the leather wheel and I get a SUPER sharp edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past I also worked at a smaller shop with ~10 people and all we had was a single &quot;fine&quot; grade diamond stone of the same type (with plastic circles) and a honing angle guide to ensure the correct cutting angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can tell you that with the high level of use in our workshop, and in my previous workshop, the fine grade stone (600 grit) with the plastic circles is absolutely adequate on its own to get a good working edge. The same stone was also used for 5+ years with minimal loss of effectiveness. If I were buying sharpening kit for my home shop and was on a tight budget, all I would buy would be one fine grade stone and a honing guide - the angle guide really helps to get the perfect angle for a good cutting edge with the right balance of sharpness and durability. I was more than able to get a razor sharp edge which easily shaves the hairs off of the back of your hand. In my current place of employment I don't think the finest grade of diamond stone really gets used, even though it is available - it takes too long, and the extra pay-off isn't worth it most of the time. To be clear a 600 grit stone will take you from a slightly chipped/damaged blade to a finished edge just fine. If you need to regrind the whole bevel on a large chisel you can do it, with a bit of work. If somebody asked me to do this on a finer stone I'd be reluctant just because the material removal is that much slower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's not to say that you won't get a sharper edge with a finer grit BUT bear in mind that the sharper you make the edge of a given blade, the less time it will last. If you're trying to (e.g.) get super-fine shavings with your plane then you may want to get finer grits but for most work, the edge you'll get from a 600 grit stone is more than adequate. I'd also note that a 600 grit diamond stone is not like using 600 grit sandpaper - since the stone is solid you can get much more even pressure on the blade etc. and you'll get a way better edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to be stropping the blade on canvas/leather etc. after honing then it's also not as crucial to get a really fine grit stone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the topic of the continuous stones vs. the ones with the plastic circles - I have used both and I think I prefer the plastic ones as I find I can get a smoother action going with them. As mentioned, the wear for a hobbyist on either type of stone should be a non-issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastEditorUserId="272" LastEditDate="2016-04-26T07:56:26.627" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T07:56:26.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3929" CreationDate="2016-04-26T08:02:01.753" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In any case I was having a huge issue keeping the work relatively flat. No matter how hard I tried the planer would be at some sort of angle and cut into wood on one side more that the other (usually the side opposite of me. ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds to me like this may be due to a combination of factors, the first is just one of technique, something that will improve with practice and experience. Hand-held planers are powerful, like belt sanders, and just like them they can run away from you if not held right. That might be better expressed as they &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; run away from you if not held right!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may have been trying to take off too much on each pass which would be a critical factor if that's the case. Even at a low speed the bite into the wood will make control difficult. Unlike a belt sander, with a planer you can control the projection of the blades and because they're so effective having them set to remove the smallest amount possible (equivalent to 0.1mm?) will make it most controllable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of technique I think you should be trying to have the planer 'take off' at the end of each pass, like a plane lifting off from the end of a runway. This is even good practice with a hand plane, and I seem to recall when watching experienced users wielding planers that they do this at each stroke. It contributes to the fatigue of using them as you're lifting with arms extended, but that can't be helped.... probably a good reason they shouldn't be used heavily by the amateur woodworker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other thing, it's not clear if you were planing along the boards or across (not just at 90°, even at an angle) and this may also be a factor. If you were planing across that will account for some of the difficulty I'm sure. Cross-grain planing is &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; easier that planing along the grain, something noticeable even with a hand plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It might not be the right tool for the job but it is what was available. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The right tool &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; often the one that's available :-) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this may be a good illustration of why planers aren't the ideal tool for smoothing larger surfaces. They're great at removing wood quickly, especially from edges narrower than the cutter head, but they shouldn't be expected to produce a good flat, smooth-ish surface as if you'd dressed the board with a jack plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mentioning the jack just above brings to mind another thing, if you were cross-grain planing it should be expected that the surface isn't great after that step. When flattening a board by hand all cross-grain work, whether by scrub plane or jack plane, is further flattened out by planing along the grain afterwards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's only that last step that produces a decently flat surface, which is then taken closer to finished with a try or jointer plane before final smoothing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your situation this planing along the grain to flatten off should be done by handing off to your thicknesser as you did, so within reason you should expect the board to look rough before it goes into the thicknesser, which will combine jointing and smoothing operations in one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T08:02:01.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3932" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4308" CreationDate="2016-04-26T08:19:03.820" Score="4" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that for some kinds of lumber there is significant difference in nominal and actual size (for instance 2 by 4).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is with KVH (dried and glued up construction lumber used in EU)? What are actual dimensions of 60x140x13000mm sleeper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="998" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T20:09:15.157" Title="Actual KVH sleepers dimensions" Tags="|lumber|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3921" CreationDate="2016-04-26T08:33:38.557" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;do I really need to sand... before priming?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally yes. The role of sanding is not just about smoothing, it can also be about prepping a surface to properly accept a finish (or glue).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any older wood surface should be sanded lightly prior to applying glue to ensure a good bond and the same holds for when paint or varnish is applied. Just to be clear, you can get away with not doing this in some cases but &lt;em&gt;with waterbased products in particular&lt;/em&gt; it will give better security if you sand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This shouldn't be any kind of heavy sanding, just a few passes with a med-fine paper is more than enough. If using a random-orbit sander finish with a pass sanding by hand (using a block) in the direction of the grain, using the same grit as fitted to the ROS. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The raised grain is a separate concern. Because the primer is raising the grain pre-wetting to raise the grain can be advisable. After this knock back the raised grain with just enough sanding as needed to remove it and no more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in summary here's the prep procedure you might adopt:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sand lightly overall with 120 to 180 grit, no need to go to finer paper than this when painting; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dampen the surface with warm water to raise the grain;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;let the wood dry thoroughly, a couple of hours if necessary;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sand very lightly along the grain to &lt;em&gt;just to remove the raised grain&lt;/em&gt;, using a finer paper such as 180 to 220 grit;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;prime;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;paint.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T08:33:38.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3911" CreationDate="2016-04-26T09:25:59.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can get screws made of some very soft metal (aluminium or softer) then you may be able to do it, machining very slowly, skimming off maybe 0.2mm per hit... but on the whole it's a bad idea. If the screws (or remnants of screws) come loose at all during machining then you're going ruin the router bit, probably ruin the workpiece, and have a dangerous chunk of metal flying at you at high speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need a rethink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T09:25:59.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3929" CreationDate="2016-04-26T14:54:48.913" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;My belt sander has an attachment that helps prevent it making gouges by tilting it while sanding large flat surfaces.  I think if you could build a small guide to attach to the far side of the planer to prevent the planer from tilting it might work better for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;making a frame for the whole thing would be the most stable, but just putting a guide on one side would do wonders, both sides would give you lots of confidence and little need to worry about unbalanced gouges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KAGH6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KAGH6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T14:54:48.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3936" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-26T18:30:07.127" Score="10" ViewCount="22034" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may be an opinion question...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone recently gave me an old electric planer similar to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VvajZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VvajZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I'm wondering whether there is any task where it would really have an advantage over other tools such as hand planes, a thickness planer, a belt sander, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;LATE ADDITION TO THE QUESTION:&lt;/strong&gt; How would one of these do for the frequently-asked question about initial paint removal from boards being recycled? The blades are certainly a lot cheaper than those of a &quot;lunchbox&quot; planer if the paint makes a mess of them. On the other hand, it has little to no dust collection, which could be hazardous if there's lead in the paint. Just a thought...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2016-05-27T21:10:55.087" LastActivityDate="2021-02-04T05:01:26.880" Title="What is an electric planer (hand tool) good for?" Tags="|power-tools|plane|hand-planing|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3936" CreationDate="2016-04-26T19:15:19.703" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure you're going to find a ton of woodworkers using these for fine woodworking or furniture construction, but they are commonly used by construction workers/general contractors for things like shaving down doors, evening out floor joists, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T19:15:19.703" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3938" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3940" CreationDate="2016-04-26T19:29:55.753" Score="6" ViewCount="489" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[Update in 2021]&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I asked this question back in 2016 when I was about to repair some windows on my own house. The approach I finally chose was to use PVA glue, plane the plugs flat while the glue was still wet, and then paint on Repair Care Dry Fix epoxy. This is the just the liquid part of their 4-pack filler system and is very easy to apply, brush on, paint over. 5 years later none of the plugs on my house are cracking the paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Updated - see pictures below]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I treat joinery in the UK for rot by drilling 10mm holes, injecting fungicide gel, and hammering home a tapered cross-grain oak plug to seal the hole. I've been using exterior-grade PVA smeared on the inside of the hole to fix the plug. After hammering home, I immediately plane the plug flat, while the joint should still be open. After 24 hours, I apply a conventional exterior paint finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Revisiting a property I treated 6 years ago, I see that about 25% of the oak plugs have moved enough to crack the paint finish. Not one plug has come loose, but some have moved enough to crack the paint, and that is unsightly, and will let in water. I'd like to fix the plugs more reliably to avoid this. The glue has to work in the UK, which can be hot, wet or freezing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I asked Loctite if they could recommend anything. They said they weren't sure anything they had would be better than PVA. I need an easy-to-use glue, since I insert thousands of these plugs, often working at height outdoors on old buildings. It's hard to experiment, since all the plugs look great for a long time after the painting. I'd prefer to have just one visit for glue-and-plane-flat, without having to wait for the glue to cure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What glue can I use? Or what better plugging process can I use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt; two days later, following great suggestions from answer and comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a close-up picture of paint cracking at oak plugs in 2016. These are oak plugs hammered into an oak frame and glued with with pva in 2010. The frame was made about 1939. Actually what species of oak was used for plugs or frame is not known. The paint is Dulux weathershield Exterior high gloss over Dulux weathershield undercoat (I think this was just after the shift from old-style high-VOC paint to low-VOC paint, and before the takeover by AzkoNobel, but I may be mistaken).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aWvU9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aWvU9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking closely, I can't see any evidence there that the plugs have moved out of the holes. It is, as others have suggested, paint cracking at the boundary between the woods, despite the fact that the grain is aligned and the woods are vaguely the same. So my plea for better glue is not useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found it hard to take photos of plugs that haven't cracked because they're so hard to see! Here's just one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wYXIA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wYXIA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a suspicion that the reason that did not crack is there may be a smear of epoxy over it. That plug is oak in softwood. The softwood had major rot, and I filled a big hole nearby with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.repair-care.co.uk/products&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Repair Care Dry Fix and Dry Flex&quot;&gt;Repair Care Dry Fix and Dry Flex&lt;/a&gt; 4-pack epoxy. That sticks very strongly to wood and flexes with it, and a smear might well stop the cracking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@bowlturner suggested that different woods might be to blame. I did start off long ago trying to match plug wood to frame wood, despite having to custom-make all the plugs. But I gave up because the softwood plugs tended to break up as they were hammered in. They need to be pretty strong to stand up to the insertion process, especially halfway up a building in a gale. It may well be true that oak in softwood tends to crack paint more than oak in oak. But oak in oak does crack too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@Graphus suggests filler. The only filler I have found that does not crack with time (and I hope that means decades) is the Repair Care 4-pack system. That would probably work, but the setting time is such that the fungicide gel will probably leak out before I can get the hole filled. I would have to plug the hole and leave a gap at the surface to fill - I will think about that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much thanks to everyone for the ideas! Keep them coming if anyone has anything more. Meanwhile, I will tick the answer from Graphus because it contains much wisdom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2190" LastEditorUserId="2190" LastEditDate="2021-02-17T16:18:53.440" LastActivityDate="2021-02-17T16:18:53.440" Title="Exterior glue for tapered plugs" Tags="|glue|plugs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3936" CreationDate="2016-04-26T20:21:17.877" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;And I'm wondering whether there is any task where it would really have an advantage over other tools such as hand planes, a thickness planer, a belt sander, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Electric planers are coarse tools for coarse work.  As such, you won't see one used by a fine furniture maker for anything beyond the rough dimensioning of stock (removing gross amounts of twist, waney edges, etc.), if indeed he/she uses one at all.  I might use one for removing a dirty surface of a board prior to running it through a powered planer/jointer, just to save the wear on my planer knives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually these are used by job sites for rough dimensioning of things.  For example, I used one once to trim the protruding tops of some deck joists prior to screwing down deck boards.  If you have a stud that's just a bit too wide to fit in a space, trim it down with an electric planer.  And the list goes on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Historically, the job of the electric planer was done by a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scrub_plane&quot;&gt;scrub plane&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T20:21:17.877" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3938" CreationDate="2016-04-27T10:54:22.207" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think there's anything you can do to completely prevent this on the wood front. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm tempted to recommend something like Cascamite or Aerolite as alternative adhesives, but I'm not at all certain these extremely strong and reliable glues would prevent the problem entirely. I don't believe it's about the glue, I suspect it's to do with a minor difference in movement in the wooden members and the plugs, the shallowness of the plug making it more prone to swelling and shrinkage than the surrounding thicker wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is the case thicker plugs might help resolve the issue, assuming it would be possible to create them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'd prefer to have just one visit for glue-and-plane-flat, without having to wait for the glue to cure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm only theorising here but I think you should leave room for the possibility that this could be partly to blame and that you'd get better results using the glue you're currently using if you waited for it to set before planing flush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Or what better plugging process can I use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously filler is an option since you're painting but this is still a tricky one as some people report great results with certain fillers (e.g. epoxy wood compounds or Swedish putty) while others say no matter what they used the filling can eventually show itself. I've read this in the context of exterior woodworking, doors and such, as well as on interior applications in MDF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps the paint itself is the thing to look at? A six-year service life before cracking defects show up seems short to me, but realistically that's close to the ~10 years you can expect from most exterior coatings. There are certainly higher-performance paints or 'coating systems' but they do tend to cost a bit more, read: they cost an arm and a leg!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T10:54:22.207" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3941" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3942" CreationDate="2016-04-27T14:39:32.793" Score="3" ViewCount="799" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently working on a cutting board with a rectangular cutout for a handle. I used a jig saw to cut out the handle, and need to sand the edges of the cut. It's the first time I've tried one of these, and I was wondering what are some good methods for sanding the edges of the cutout. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a photo of the project for reference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yqu2c.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yqu2c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Current state of cutting board&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2087" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T19:35:49.100" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T19:35:49.100" Title="What is the best method for sanding a rectangular cut out" Tags="|technique|sanding|handle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3941" CreationDate="2016-04-27T15:14:56.887" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm currently working on a cutting board with a rectangular cut out for a handle. I used a jig saw to cutout the handle, and need to sand the edges of the cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I would suggest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're still not done with the design, I would consider making the ends of the cutout rounded, similar to the image below.  If this is not to your taste, please move on past the line break below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v4Yu6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v4Yu6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rounded handle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This serves two purposes: first, the handle is more comfortable to hold, and second, it's easier to smooth with no sharp corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a router, I would use a roundover bit on the handle to smooth the transition.  If you don't have a router, continue on to the next step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if you want to keep the sharp inside corners like you have now, I would recommend using thin sanding belts to reach inside the handle opening.  You would work the sanding belt in a back-and-forth motion, like you were flossing your teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also make &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-bandfile-belt-sander-92158.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;thin belt sanders&lt;/a&gt; that can do this the powered way.  Harbor Freight is not my favorite tool company, but their tool is shown in the example below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UbB3G.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UbB3G.png&quot; alt=&quot;sander&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please also read &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3860/sanding-inside-pockets-fast&quot;&gt;this related Question&lt;/a&gt; where the OP has an issue similar to yours.  @Graphus's answer involving using a scraping chisel would work here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T15:14:56.887" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3943" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3947" CreationDate="2016-04-28T01:31:55.857" Score="10" ViewCount="42501" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used hidden screws and wood glue on the joints of the legs and supports of a table*. When I started to stain the piece of furniture with a very dark stain, it simply would not take on the areas right around joints and a couple spots where wood glue had dribbled, and I had wiped it off before it dried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To my despair, I realized that I had accidentally purchased wood glue that does not stain (&lt;em&gt;Titebond Original Wood Glue&lt;/em&gt; to be precise). The stain &quot;beads up&quot; like water on a hydrophobic surface, and can be just wiped away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are my options for fixing this? The several of the &quot;unstained&quot; spots are in very visible areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2194" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T11:57:08.970" Title="I accidentally used woodglue that doesn't stain. How do I fix it?" Tags="|wood|staining|glue|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3944" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-28T01:49:45.337" Score="4" ViewCount="699" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in the central part of the United States. When I go to a local hardware store (such as Menards or Lowes) there are wooden boards of different thicknesses and length just labeled &quot;Untreated Lumber&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I go to the hardware store and purchase an untreated 2&quot;x4&quot;, what sort of wood type am I purchasing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2194" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T16:03:14.670" Title="What is the type of wood that is often purchased in bulk at the hardware store?" Tags="|wood|wood-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3945" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4301" CreationDate="2016-04-28T02:04:01.113" Score="2" ViewCount="3468" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making beds for my garden and am using treated wood with steel bracket like things. I need to make holes in them and the wood. I am doing 12 of these beds, what bit will hold up and cut through both the wood and steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="2073" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T19:39:36.320" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T14:39:21.097" Title="What drill bit should be used for cutting steel" Tags="|drill-bits|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3944" CreationDate="2016-04-28T02:18:09.990" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dimensional framing lumber is often referred to as SPF which stands for Spruce, Pine and Fir. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will likely also find cedar and pressure treated lumber in the green or brown variants &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T02:18:09.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3943" CreationDate="2016-04-28T11:19:17.083" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Almost every glue commonly in use won't take stain, and one or two that are said to stain don't stain as well as you'd like (similar story with 'stainable filler' incidentally) so it's good practice generally when glueing to take steps to prevent squeeze-out being left on the surface of the wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main ways people do this include wiping up the glue while it's still liquid, removing the glue when it has partially hardened to a sort of rubbery consistency, waiting for it to fully harden before scraping and/or sanding it off and last but not least taping surfaces to prevent glue getting on them in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This previous Q&amp;amp;A has more information on this, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1368/glue-spots-under-stain&quot;&gt;Glue spots under stain&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What are my options for fixing this? The several of the &quot;unstained&quot; spots are in very visible areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very thorough sanding or scraping are nearly your only options here, although you could also switch to using 'gel stain' which despite its name is not actually a stain in the conventional sense as it sits on the surface of the wood and doesn't colour it by soaking in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How deep do I need to sand to make sure the glue is gone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Deep enough&lt;/em&gt; is the only guide here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glue penetration varies with species and cut of wood, the glue type and how liquid it is, temperature and humidity and perhaps other factors too but even if by some means you could find out the exact level of penetration, e.g. X thousandths of an inch, this wouldn't be of help anyway as there's no way to sand or scrape off exactly that much wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you sand or scrape until testing reveals you've done enough, that's pretty much it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T11:19:17.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3948" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3952" CreationDate="2016-04-28T14:05:03.110" Score="5" ViewCount="922" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building an oval dining room table and I'm looking for ideas on the best way to add a 30deg. bevel to the top. The top is 42&quot; x 76&quot;. The top will be solid 4/4 Ash. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking maybe a belt sander? I added an image of the top below. Thanks! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d28Vm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d28Vm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1462" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T14:52:28.763" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T14:56:07.820" Title="What would be the best way to bevel an oval table top?" Tags="|technique|power-tools|wood|sanding|tabletop|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3948" CreationDate="2016-04-28T14:16:04.200" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Common solution would be a router with an edge-guided bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T14:16:04.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3950" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3951" CreationDate="2016-04-28T14:19:07.013" Score="4" ViewCount="468" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know questions based on opinion are not too welcomed here and I'm trying to avoid making this look like one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My situation is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm building a piece of outdoor patio furniture. For part of that furniture, I want a solid cream color, while the rest of the piece will just use a regular dark wood stain. I also want to keep the solid cream color from chipping and needing to be reapplied every couple of years. I want the piece to be low-maintenance since it is a gift. Because of that last part, I wanted to avoid paint, so I looked into solid-color wood stain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Through my reading I feel that I am probably best off using the wood stain since it seems like it will last longer than the paint and I'm okay with keeping the texture of the wood instead of a smooth paint surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concern is this: as it ages, will the cream color become less and less opaque? If it does I am especially concerned about using this solid wood stain because it doesn't seem to be something you can just reapply and I don't want the wood grain to show through. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2075" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T18:58:00.290" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T18:58:00.290" Title="Should I use solid color wood stain or paint for my project?" Tags="|finishing|staining|paint|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3950" CreationDate="2016-04-28T14:45:57.630" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Outdoor finishes have a hard job.  They have to withstand weather (rain, snow, etc.), hot and cold temperatures, and the relentless beating of UV radiation from the sun.  People often have unrealistic expectations for outdoor finishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm okay with keeping the texture of the wood instead of a smooth paint surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am especially concerned about using this solid wood stain because it doesn't seem to be something you can just reapply and I don't want the wood grain to show through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You seem to be contradicting yourself here.  I assume you mean that you don't want the bare surface of the wood to show through the stain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concern is this: as it ages, will the cream color become less and less opaque?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Outdoor finishes fade over time.  It's a fact, and there's not much you can do about it.  Also, they'll probably chip, peel, and flake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want the piece to be low-maintenance since it is a gift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the first couple of years, the piece will likely be ok with very little maintenance.  However, after that, you'll start to see the things I described above happening to the finish.  There's really nothing you can do about it, save maybe coating the piece in expensive marine epoxy or spar varnish finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your recipient is ok with the expected weathering of the piece, then you have no problem.  Otherwise, you could also offer to refinish it when the time comes, or educate them on how to do it themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the unfortunate reality of outdoor furniture.  Unless you make it out of some kind of color-fast wood/plastic composite (yuck), you're going to need to do at least some periodic maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T14:45:57.630" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3948" CreationDate="2016-04-28T14:49:41.400" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;To expand upon @keshlam's answer, you're going to want to purchase a chamfer or low angle bevel bit.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00H2AFK3I&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt; (among others) sells a 60-deg bevel bit (pictured below), and chamfer bits can be found at just about any woodworking supplier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wCeUTm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wCeUTm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;60 deg bevel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will notice that this bit has a guide bearing on it, which is crucial for the bit's function in this type of operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advise to you would be to make this bevel in lots of shallow cuts.  If you try to hog off the entire bevel at once, the results &lt;em&gt;will not&lt;/em&gt; be pretty (and actually a little dangerous).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I was thinking maybe a belt sander?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A belt sander would work, yes, but it will not be anywhere near as consistent, convenient, or quick as using a router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T14:56:07.820" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T14:56:07.820" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3944" CreationDate="2016-04-28T16:03:14.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;@Steven has it correct that it's most likely SPF for generic dimensional lumber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the central US, you can also find dimensional lumber in Douglas Fir (DF) and Southern Yellow Pine (SYP).  Usually SYP is used for pressure-treated lumber, but you can find it non-treated as well.  Both are a higher-grade material than SPF and are generally used for members that resist bending (joists and rafters, for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since DF and SYP carry a premium over SPF, they're usually labelled pretty clearly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not that this will apply for your case, but on the west coast you can also find redwood in dimensional lumber.  I haven't seen too much of it east of the Rockies, but hopefully someone over on the west coast finds this useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T16:03:14.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3954" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-28T21:19:53.667" Score="4" ViewCount="2960" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if there is any guideline for using fasteners (screws, dado and biscuit) for joinery. Specifically, I am wondering about how to determine where those fasteners are located in the joint and how many are needed in total. I was trying to find the info from the internet but could not find any relevant info and was wondering if there was any principled guideline.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1278" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T19:17:17.757" LastActivityDate="2019-05-17T15:09:02.493" Title="How to determine the location of joinery fasteners" Tags="|joinery|fasteners|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3943" CreationDate="2016-04-29T11:57:08.970" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I almost agree with another answer.  However I would like to add my two cents as I just had a similar problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have not as well found a glue that is &quot;stainable&quot;.  Most state they are &quot;paintable&quot; but this is not the same for stain.  Perhaps oil base may have a shot but I find this unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I sanded mine without much scraping and this was wrong as it takes too long.  Corners were impossible.  I used a utility knife, scraper and chisels.  Some joints were badly scraped and others impossible to get at.  You will want to try this but it takes a lot of experience. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In the future use wood conditioner.   This will reveal glue without the staining.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In the future use an artist brush to apply glue to &quot;both&quot; joints.  This is sufficient and less mess.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In the future use a wet rag or tack cloth around all joints.  This will at the least keep glue minimal.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After working with the error you can apply multiple layers that will eventually cover the approach you decide.  This works to an extent that the glue will look like grain.  That is providing you attempted to scrape.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can use trim to cover its visibilty.  You will need some sanding as stained wood will not glue well.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Paint over it instead if all else fails.  I choose this if I decide it is too much work.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Traditionally you can choose to make artistic and engraved designs to cover it.  This requires skill in art.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lesson learned.  But wood is an imperfect art and will look good however you end your work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2020" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T11:57:08.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3957" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3970" CreationDate="2016-04-29T18:18:54.320" Score="7" ViewCount="5036" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got an &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0012YF25Q&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;8&quot; dado set&lt;/a&gt; for my table saw, and was a little nervous about using it without the normal safety equipment I usually have in place (primarily a riving knife), especially since they've been deemed &quot;dangerous&quot; enough to be banned in Europe. I want to approach my use of the set with a thorough understanding of the dangers involved. &lt;strong&gt;Are there general guidelines of what to do/not do with a dado set installed?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I cut dadoes with the work piece against the fence, or should I strictly use a miter gauge or crosscut sled?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Obviously using both the fence and miter gauge at the same time would still be a kickback risk.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are through cuts a definite no-no with dado stacks? If I need to make one quick one, should I just go through the hassle of switching out the dado stack, reinstalling my regular blade and safety equipment?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, I've made a zero-clearance insert to replace my standard insert so there isn't a gaping hole in my saw table around the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T01:13:39.743" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T01:13:39.743" Title="Are there any best practices when using dado blades or stack?" Tags="|safety|table-saw|power-tools|dado|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3954" CreationDate="2016-04-29T18:27:30.613" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Specifically, I am wondering about how to determine where those fasteners are located in the joint and how many are needed in total.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I'm aware, there are no real guidelines or rules of thumb for this sort of thing besides &quot;make it look right to your eye.&quot;  I understand that this is possibly the vaguest of ways to put it, but that's really how it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furniture is generally designed to be aesthetically pleasing.  As such, the proportions are more fitting with what looks right, not so much with what's structurally-sound.  This means that most furniture is way overbuilt from a strength perspective, and this usually includes fasteners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, a #10 wood screw can probably be relied upon to resist at least 300 lbs of shear or tension.  You will likely not see these magnitude of forces in a properly-designed piece of furniture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;WARNING: ENGINEERING CONTENT TO FOLLOW&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I'm going to attempt to outline some recommendations based on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.awc.org/codes-standards/publications/nds-2015&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;National Design Specification (NDS) for Wood Construction&lt;/em&gt;, 2015&lt;/a&gt;, which is an American standard for the design of wood-framed buildings.  Consider the following two images, which depict loading parallel to and perpendicular to the grain of specific members (NDS 2015, Fig. 12G):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VcBkO.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VcBkO.png&quot; alt=&quot;12G-1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YREby.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YREby.png&quot; alt=&quot;12G-2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In these, you can see the spacing between fasteners and the edge distances for the fasteners called out.  For wood building design, the NDS specifies minimum spacing and edge distances.  Table 12.5.1A below shows the minimum edge distances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3TQvM.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3TQvM.png&quot; alt=&quot;Table 12.5.1A&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The value &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;D&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is the diameter of the fastener.  For example, for loading perpendicular to grain, an edge distance of &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;4D&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is required for full fastener strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Table 12.5.1B below shows the minimum spacing between fasteners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g2Vlp.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g2Vlp.png&quot; alt=&quot;12.5.1B&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, these tables are meant for use with wood buildings and don't really apply to the design of furniture, which has loading several orders of magnitude lower.  However, the spacing requirements given above can be applied to furniture design, just on a smaller scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T18:27:30.613" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3959" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-29T20:52:43.787" Score="4" ViewCount="4491" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trying not to use pressure treated wood for garden beds, chemical leeching.&#xA;Would like to use regular wood(cedar is a bit expensive for me right now).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking for a suggestion on what to use to treat(stain and/or seal) wood to a little more life out of it then a season of two?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Found several places online, but they're expensive and have to order and ship the stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't mind DIY ideas either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2200" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-04-30T03:12:26.537" LastActivityDate="2019-08-05T19:15:07.237" Title="What is an easy way to seal wood for outdoor garden use" Tags="|wood|staining|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3959" CreationDate="2016-04-30T07:38:07.047" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a result of bad planning I ended up using untreated planed softwood (probably pine) and treating it with fence preserver for slightly raised beds (by soaking) . It lasted about 6 years in contact with soil but didn't have to hold back much pressure. The treatment soaks in better on rough sawn timber, and was a modern wax/resin waterproofing product with very little in it to actually prevent rot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So basically even if you do it quite wrong you can get a few years out of it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having replaced the boards (quite a job) I do suggest going with pressure treated timber - I used &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dictionaryofconstruction.com/definition/gravel-board.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;gravel board&lt;/a&gt;. At least here it doesn't use arsenic any more. I gave it a coat of fence treatment as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to avoid pressure treated timber, it would be a good idea to soak the boards in fence treatment and buy thicker boards than you otherwise would have. But note that most fence treatment products, including all that work for any length of time in contact with the ground contain preservatives of some sort. The products that only seal are designed to shed water quickly and don't seal very well for long. So wet soul against them won't do much good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here in the UK, you really to have hunt down anything other than pressure treated generic softwood for outside use, and the cost is enormous. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T15:53:02.303" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T15:53:02.303" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3961" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-30T09:05:25.830" Score="14" ViewCount="12042" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems rather common practice for woodworkers on YouTube to combine smaller boards into larger boards, and then milling the larger board down to the size they want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just one of many examples, Steve Ramsey can be seen 40 seconds into this video gluing together the faces of two 1x4 for the legs of a table:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TGe4GCVGV94&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TGe4GCVGV94&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why go through with all the hassle of combining two slim boards, and not just purchase and use a thicker 2x4?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2194" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2016-04-30T11:30:15.910" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T10:35:36.103" Title="What is the benefit to gluing boards together instead of buying a thicker board?" Tags="|glue|laminating|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3961" CreationDate="2016-04-30T11:53:06.230" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wood has a tendency to warp. Depending upon the orientation of the grain in individual boards it can do so in a variety of ways (see an answer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/319/how-to-straighten-a-warped-board&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; for a picture of some of the ways. The way the board will warp is dependent upon its grain orientation. An answer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3222/how-can-i-fix-warping-on-board-made-of-glued-2x4s&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; diagrams how the grain appears for various types of warping. By arranging several boards with their grain directions in opposition so that the grain curves oppose each other it is possible to minimize any tendency to warp. For grain traveling top to bottom, if grain direction slants in one direction in the first piece, orient the next one to slant towards the other direction.  If the grain travels across the width curving up, place the adjacent board curving down. Or mix grains (top to bottom with side to side).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible to use one thicker piece of wood as well, but examine it closely.  You want uniform parallel grain over the entire length to minimize the risk of forces distorting the wood differently over its length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T11:53:06.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3963" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-30T12:06:28.520" Score="3" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wondering if you might be willing to weigh in with any guidance you are willing to offer on the situation below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bench I am working on calls for a side rail panel made from two 4 ½” wide pieces that otherwise meet specs in the photo attached. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aUsNk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aUsNk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Board layout&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no explanation as to why they are executing the creation of the component parts by cutting down a 1 1/2 “ thick piece of stock, though they are clearly recommending bandsawing the piece to get the ¾” part.   My thinking is they took this approach in order to make it a simpler process of cutting the tenons and not having to deal with the cutting of a compound tenon from a piece of ¾” stock, but I am not certain.  I am very limited on 6/4 stock though I guess I could laminate some ¾ stock then execute the procedure as they show, but it seems to me that I should be able to calculate the angles needed and cut this from ¾ stock,  saving me from wasting so much wood and having to worry about how the glue line of a laminated part would come into play if I had to bandsaw across it.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would you attack this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope I explained it well enough.  Appreciate any wisdom you can offer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: added illustration of the bench&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/udwOb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/udwOb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bench exploded view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T01:33:51.720" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T13:35:52.077" Title="Why do the plans for this bench require a side panel oriented on an angle from a larger piece of wood?" Tags="|design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3961" CreationDate="2016-05-01T06:55:55.697" Score="11" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why go through with all the hassle of combining two slim boards, and not just purchase and use a thicker 2x4?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cost&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Wood of smaller dimensions can be cheaper, cheap enough that two smaller pieces can be cheaper than the one thicker piece. This is one of the prime motivations to do laminations and glue-ups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In wood sales generally wider material is sold at a premium, and as a result some older guides specifically caution new woodworkers that while it might seem economical to buy a large board and cut it into all the smaller pieces needed for a project it can be much cheaper to buy a number of narrower boards instead, sometimes even if you end up actually purchasing more wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you may choose to buy a wider board deliberately however, so the wood throughout a piece matches as well as possible in grain and/or colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Just one of many examples, Steve Ramsey can be seen 40 seconds into this video gluing together the faces of two 1x4 for the legs of a table&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now in this case there are some additional possible advantages. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Strength or stability&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The first is strength, a glued-up 2x4 made from bonding together two 1x4s face to face will often be stronger and more stable than a sawn 2x4 of the same species. This won't always be the case, &lt;em&gt;and the added strength may not actually be needed&lt;/em&gt;, but in the case of plain-sawn wood it can be quite a bit less prone to warping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Simplifying construction&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Another advantage is one of time. Although the glue-up is an extra step, if the leg is intended to have one or more mortises cut into it these can be formed faster (particularly with power tools) by sawing or routing away material prior to glueing the pieces together. Although it's not uncommon I couldn't find a photograph clearly showing this type of construction so I modified a diagram from a workbench build that uses a similar method so you can more easily visualise what I'm talking about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R8TGW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R8TGW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Trapped mortise&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the above example the mortise is cut from just one of the two parts of the legs because they're of unequal thickness but with a leg made from two pieces of the same stock it's normal to cut two shallower channels on each half of the leg that combine to form the finished mortise width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Decorative effect&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In finer woodworking you may want to glue up a table leg rather than relying on a solid piece in order to get a particular run of grain running on all visible sides. A good example is if you want quarter-sawn grain on all four sides of a leg, something not found in nature:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tQrwI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tQrwI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Quadrilinear leg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://stuswoodworks.com/2009/04/making-arts-and-crafts-legs/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;stuswoodworks.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although such a leg can be created more simply by using veneers it is often made by glueing together four pieces of roughly triangular section:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tpPop.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tpPop.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Quadrilinear leg sections&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-05-03T08:49:26.663" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T08:49:26.663" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3959" CreationDate="2016-05-01T08:04:54.100" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Looking for a suggestion on what to use to treat(stain and/or seal) wood to a little more life out of it then a season of two?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't have to treat almost any wood for it to have a reasonable lifespan outdoors. Exposed to the elements without any treatment at all wood can last for a great many years, not just one or two. I compost my wood shavings and used to compost smaller scraps until I discovered that two years buried in an active compost heap had done nearly nothing to break down finger-sized pieces of wood! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Untreated wood will of course weather to the classic grey/silver appearance we're all familiar with but it won't fall apart easily. So using untreated pine or spruce, even in direct contact with soil, five years in decent shape is perhaps at the low end of expected service life. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to this the thicker the wood is the longer it can withstand the effects of weathering and fungal attack, simply because there's more of it there, so just using beefier material will directly equate with a longer lifespan. Although the savings in buying a cheaper species might then be offset by the cost of the chunkier wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DIY preservative&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you want to extend the working life further you can make up various preservative treatments for wood. Many of them use borax as the active ingredient, which is great for those in the US where it's commonly available (not too useful for others living elsewhere in the world where it has become a controlled substance).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The borax can be dissolved in hot water until a fully saturated solution is created — add it spoonful by spoonful until no more will dissolve and some crystals remain on the bottom of the pan. This can be painted directly onto the bare wood with a paintbrush or roller. As the solution is colourless once dried on the wood adding food dye or watercolour paint may help in applying it more evenly over larger areas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to treat posts that will be driven into the ground they should be stood in the liquid for a couple of days for the end grain to soak in as much of the solution as it will take.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also dissolve borax into oil and combine it with varnish to make an actual wood finish with preservative qualities but these additional ingredients obviously add to the cost and this is probably overkill for treating something like the wood for raised beds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would like to use regular wood(cedar is a bit expensive for me right now).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Regular wood&quot; covers quite a bit of ground, as geographic availability and cost of certain species varies greatly — from reading posts from American woodworkers it appears someone in one state will be able to get white oak at approximately the price others typically pay for poplar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buying from a sawmill or a dedicated wood supplier will also usually make a substantial difference compared to buying wood at a big-box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are actually numerous woods naturally resistant to rot that may be cheaper than cedar where you are, including white oak. If you'd like to investigate this option here's a table from the Forest Products Laboratory showing the relative rot-resistance of woods commonly available in North America:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dBO8K.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dBO8K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Decay resistance&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything from the Very Resistant or Resistant columns could probably be expected to last for a couple decades in this application, except if driven directly into the soil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T08:04:54.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3966" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-01T11:29:56.603" Score="2" ViewCount="157" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am renovating the closet in my daughter's room to make it a little study nook with a loft.  To save space, I'd like the desk to fold back against the wall inside the closet.  When not in use, the desk should sit flush against the wall on the inside of the closet.  When she needs to use it, I'd like her to be able to flip the desk first up and then out from the closet, so that she can sit on the edge of the loft and work with the desk in front of her.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking I can do this with a &quot;flip&quot; hinge, sort of like the ones you see in auditorium desks where the desk tucks under the armrest (to use those, you first pull the desk up and then turn it sideways across your lap).  I was thinking I could bolt that to the inside wall of the closet and use it like an auditorium desk, but with the flip re-oriented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd love to hear if anyone has tried that, or knows where to get a flip hinge like I'm describing.  I'm not even sure what to Google for!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for any help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2199" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T11:29:56.603" Title="Seeking hinge for a fold-back desk that flips up and out" Tags="|hinges|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2017-01-29T22:18:28.730" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3963" CreationDate="2016-05-01T18:04:09.360" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without seeing the rest of the design it would hard to explain why the angled rails need to be present. The mortises that would partner with this board are not directly opposite of each other for whatever reason so the board has to have the angle. I can however weigh in on why they would suggest that you cut that out of one and half inch stock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;The strength of the tenon&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are asking you to do that so that the grain of the tenon is parallel to the tenon cut. Aside from the size and fit the strength of the tenon comes from the grain direction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the picture I can see that the tenon is cut parallel to that of the original board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were just to use a smaller board and cut the angled tenons you would be creating weaker ones than what is pictured in your instructions. I don't know what kind of wood you are using but for something like that quarter-sawn lumber would be valued. Cutting the tenon on an angle would go against the inherent strength of that lumber.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While your bench could suffice without following those instructions it would surely last longer if you did. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T13:35:52.077" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T13:35:52.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3957" CreationDate="2016-05-01T22:01:16.277" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Can I cut dadoes with the work piece against the fence, or should I strictly use a miter gauge or crosscut sled?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on the nature of the cut. A &lt;code&gt;dado&lt;/code&gt; is technically a slot cut across the grain (a crosscut), so in that sense, yes, you would typically use a miter gauge or sled.  A &lt;code&gt;groove&lt;/code&gt; is a slot cut with the grain (like a rip cut). Regardless of whether you are cutting a dado or groove, if the edge parallel to the fence and blade is significantly longer than the edge perpendicular to the blade, it often makes more sense to use the fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Obviously using both the fence and miter gauge at the same time would still be a kickback risk.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are not making a through cut, there is no offcut to be pinched between the blade and fence and kicked back. Many woodworkers and woodworking publications do not consider cutting a dado or rabbet to provide a significantly increased kickback risk with the workpiece against the fence, although you should not make a cut you are not comfortable making.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Are through cuts a definite no-no with dado stacks? If I need to make one quick one, should I just go through the hassle of switching&#xA;  out the dado stack, reinstalling my regular blade and safety&#xA;  equipment?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make through cuts with a dado stack, but you must keep in mind that you will waste more wood and will have a more limited depth of cut. You also cannot use a stock riving knife, so you could potentially have an increased chance of kickback over using a normal blade along with a riving knife. If you do make a through cut, definitely ensure that your workpiece is not in contact with both the miter gauge (or sled) and fence as you make the cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2016-05-01T22:07:49.183" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T22:07:49.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3957" CreationDate="2016-05-02T00:36:33.053" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's my best practices taken from various online videos and my own experience.  I've cut dadoes mostly for kitchen cabinets, fences or drawers.  I have an under-powered (1.5HP) 10&quot; contractor table saw and I use 6&quot; blades for my dadoes.  (It's actually the 6&quot; version of your Oshlun set.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Accessories&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My fence&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A pair of featherboards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A miter gauge, push block or pushstick&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Another pushstick, scrap piece of wood, etc...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Steps&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Setup the dadoes (width &amp;amp; height)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove my blade guard and splitter or riving knife from my saw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Setup my fence to the right position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install the featherboards (if possible)&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One featherboard at the start of the cut. (Halfway before the blades)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Another featherboard at the end of the cut. (Halfway after the blades)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do the cut&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First hand pushes the stock with the miter gauge, push block or a push stick.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Second hand uses a push stick or scrap piece of wood to apply pressure on top of cutting area.  (Ideally, if you have a small piece to cut, you could use another featherboard.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Reasoning&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to do dadoes without featherboards until I had a piece fly to the side in a circular motion.  I probably failed to apply enough side pressure and downward pressure, so my blades lifted the piece and it flew off to the side. To correct the lack of side pressure, I use the featherboards and to correct the lack of downward pressure, I use a scrap piece or a push stick above the cut.  I never had an issue since.  The downward pressure also ensure a constant dado depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That way, I make sure my hands are one foot away from the blades at any moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T00:36:33.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3972" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3973" CreationDate="2016-05-02T01:15:16.183" Score="5" ViewCount="4898" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to sharpen some Forster bits, which are made of steel. What is best to be used and is there a proper way of doing it? Some people use sandpaper and others say diamond. Could I use the sandpaper on this or am I better off with using my diamond files?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T18:31:02.813" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T18:31:02.813" Title="How to properly sharpen a Forstner bit?" Tags="|sharpening|tool-maintenance|drill-bits|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3972" CreationDate="2016-05-02T08:27:17.170" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you can sharpen a Forstner bit accurately enough with abrasive paper. Even if you glue it to a small slips of wood to make rudimentary files from it these won't be particularly stiff so may not give you the accuracy you'd want to properly sharpen a bit, where as much as possible you want to maintain the existing geometry of the factory grind. It is possible in theory however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The traditional tool for sharpening bits is a type of file, although with Forstners a round slipstone was often a necessary addition to tackle the bevel on the curved rim. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These days in place of a round slipstone many use a conical burr chucked in a pillar drill or a Dremel-type tool, or any similar handpiece. And for the flats a small slipstone can also be used, but it's commonly done today with a fine diamond paddle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although bits are usually made of tool steel they're not generally hardened to the same level as other cutting tools so can usually be comfortably cut with a steel file, just as with augur bits used with a brace. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consequently the whole job can in theory be done just with files, a set of needle files being sufficient as long as they're of decent quality.... no guarantee of this today unfortunately! Price is not a reliable guide to quality with needle files, some cheap ones are well shaped and the toothing is cut well, while you'll read customer feedback on many files that cost more which indicates they can be neither. So I would recommend inspecting before you buy if at all possible. For a Forstner bit you'll need at least the round (rat-tail) and a flat or tapered file (the flat side of a half-round), and a triangular file may prove useful too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your bit is better made it may be hardened or made from a harder/tougher alloy such as HSS in which case they will probably not cut well enough with needle files so any of the alternatives will have to be used instead. It might seem obvious to use diamond needle files here, but IME many common diamond files are much too coarse for this job (150-300 grit, where you want something like 600 grit or finer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Method&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Just as with augur bits you must be careful to sharpen only certain surfaces on a Forstner bit. The rule with large round bits like this is never to file the outside or circumference or you'll change the bit's size. While this is itself a problem there's more to it than that, it can also make the bit cut much less well and can lead to burning of the stock or worse, jamming, due to the cutting edges being a smaller diameter than the body of the bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a Forstner the process is essentially this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hone the bevel on the edge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hone the straight flutes or chip-lifters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hone the central spur.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to show the basics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VgbbH.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VgbbH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Forstner sharpening&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More detail is particularly useful here so here are links to Forstner bit sharpening info online:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gottagodoityourself.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/403/2015/10/Sharpen_a_forstner_bit.gif&quot;&gt;An animated GIF showing the rim being sharpened with a file.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://go.rockler.com/tech/RTD10315366AA.pdf&quot;&gt;Forstner Bit Sharpening Kit Instructions&lt;/a&gt; on Rockler.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/sharpeningforstnerbits.aspx&quot;&gt;Conventional Forstner Bits&lt;/a&gt; on Highland Woodworking.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://my.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/drilling-boring/how-to-sharpen-forstner-bits/&quot;&gt;How to sharpen Forstner bits&lt;/a&gt; from Wood magazine.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://workshopcompanion.com/KnowHow/Tools/Sharpening/9_Sharpening_Drill_Bits/9_Sharpening_Drill_Bits.htm&quot;&gt;Sharpening Drill Bits&lt;/a&gt; on Workshop Companion (also covers other bits).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wwch.org/techdata/Forstner_Bit_Speeds.jpg&quot;&gt;Forstner speed and feed chart with sharpening instructions&lt;/a&gt;, originally supplied with a set of Forstner bits.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Remember the rule:&lt;/strong&gt; little and often. As with all tools it is better to do minor touch-ups periodically than to leave it too long and then have to do major sharpening. A blunt Forstner bit won't cut clean, neat holes like it's supposed to and could be hazardous to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T08:27:17.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3959" CreationDate="2016-05-02T18:16:42.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you search around, you can see some cultures historically charred wood to preserve it in contact with soil.  The main example probably being the Japanese Shou Sugi Ban method, where they char the board, then scrape away the charcoal (oversimplifying it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="725" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T18:16:42.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3976" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3984" CreationDate="2016-05-02T20:04:30.637" Score="6" ViewCount="8274" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my very first DIY project, I am building an arcade stick:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o6JIK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o6JIK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Exploded view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IPghZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IPghZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Top View&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HohQP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HohQP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rubber feet will be attached to those 4 holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I do not have tools for any woodwork at home (will buy once I do start doing more DIY!). I plan on sending the template to a wood CNC workshop (2 dimensional cutting) and they will cut the wood out for me. So careful planning and screw hole sizes are important here. I will be using tapered M4-30/35 (thread: 1.41) screws mostly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Materials used: Birch plywood, Clear Polycarbonate Top 3mm, Clear Acrylic Bottom 2mm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When drilling screw holes for acrylic should I make it slightly larger than the actual diameter of the screw hole so that it does not crack? e.g. 4.0~4.1mm. I can only find pilot hole guide for plywood but not acrylic or polycarbonate sheets.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Depth of the screw hole for the birch plywood. Would 3/4&quot; suffice or should I drill same length as the length of the screw since it is hard wood?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to minimise screws showing. Will this setting be strong enough? I am concerned about 2mm acrylic panel wobbling especially.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8lW6m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8lW6m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2212" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-05-03T00:42:00.440" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T14:57:23.497" Title="Building a wooden arcade stick case" Tags="|design|plywood|screws|holes|cnc|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3976" CreationDate="2016-05-02T21:29:57.023" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;When drilling screw holes for acrylic should I make it slightly larger than the actual diameter of the screw hole so that it does not crack?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're planning to have the screws thread into the acrylic, I would make them slightly undersize and then tap the acrylic.  If the screws just pass through the acrylic (and are threaded into something else), then you want the holes slightly oversized (0.5mm would be good).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Depth of the screw hole for the birch plywood. Would 3/4&quot; suffice or should I drill same length as the length of the screw since it is hard wood?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these pointed wood screws or blunt machine screws?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If pointed wood screws, you don't necessarily have to drill as deep as the screw.  You would want the holes deep enough that the main body of the screw is pre-drilled (the tapered tip doesn't really need to be pre-drilled).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If blunt machine screws, you'll want the holes full depth (and probably prudent to add 2 mm or so for tolerance of you can fit it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;I am trying to minimise screws showing. Will this setting be strong enough? I am concerned about 2mm acrylic panel wobbling especially.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not entirely sure what you mean by &quot;wobbling.&quot;  The acrylic is going to deflect out-of-plane no matter how much you screw it to the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T21:29:57.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3978" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-03T00:57:36.330" Score="6" ViewCount="446" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking for a simple way to describe woodworking and &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Woodworking&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;I found myself glancing the wiki page for it.&lt;/a&gt; The pictures on the side were intriguing. Particularly one showing one (two?) gentlemen turning some wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Woodworking&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eBCLg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Woodworkdamas.JPG&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The caption I did not find particularly helpful as it more described what they were making more than how they were doing it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Damascene woodworkers turning wood for mashrabia and hookahs, 19th century.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can see the turner using his left hand and foot to hold the blade against some sort of tool rest (or the frame of the turning box). It appears his right hand is holding something like a bow which I will assume is what is literally turning the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other man is supervising as best I can tell. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the tools being used to turn here? Does the process have a special name in this context or is it simply a form of traditional turning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-05-03T13:13:40.627" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T13:13:40.627" Title="What is this turning process on the woodworking Wikipedia page?" Tags="|hand-tools|traditional-techniques|lathe|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3979" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-03T01:40:55.600" Score="5" ViewCount="1738" Body="&lt;p&gt;My uncle was recently trying to fix up a cabinet that used to belong to my grandfather for my mother. It used to be part of a modular set and you attached the same drawer set on each end. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since she only had the one my uncle wanted to embellish the outer edges with chair legs. He then told me he basically tried to cut them in half free hand with the table saw. While he didn't hurt himself he did say &quot;Never doing something that stupid again.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could you do to cut a turned chair leg in half? Table saw and band saw come to mind but the leg will not have the same dimensions from top to bottom. Cutting a dowel in half could just be a matter of a 45 degree box jig but that wouldn't work here exactly? Also would be hard to secure it given the round curves and what not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-05-03T13:09:27.387" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T16:15:47.303" Title="What tools could I use to cut a turned chair leg in half vertically?" Tags="|table-saw|tool-selection|jig|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3979" CreationDate="2016-05-03T02:12:18.973" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I had to do this, I'd go with bandsaw and some sort of support carriage or guide rail to hold the leg stable while you cut it, much like using a bandsaw to mill boards or veneer  out of a section of tree trunk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, fancy half-round, quarter-round, and three-quarter round turnings are available from woodworking supply houses for exactly this purpose, which would make all the complications Someone Else's Problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T02:12:18.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3981" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-03T02:38:02.547" Score="4" ViewCount="1673" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a kitchen island. On top of the carcass is going to be a piece of plywood, and on top of that a laminated solid wood plank top of 3/4&quot; thick planks. The plywood is to provide enough support for the overhang so I don't have to install corbels or legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I painted the plywood underside before attaching it. After I painted it, it cupped. I screwed the plywood down and now one corner kicks upwards a little. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some way that I can make this plywood lay out flat? Or, should I leave the plywood with the lift and somehow level out the counter top?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the plywood unattached:&#xA; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SKN9m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SKN9m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I screw the plywood down into the frame, the front corner lifts up like here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mcka0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mcka0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the top that I built that will go on top of the plywood. It is built with a laminated lip:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v12JB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v12JB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2023" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-05-03T22:17:55.363" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T15:31:27.930" Title="How can I flatten out a cupped piece of 3/4&quot; plywood for a wood counter top base?" Tags="|plywood|cabinetry|tabletop|warp|laminating|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3978" CreationDate="2016-05-03T10:26:32.967" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It appears his right hand is holding something like a bow which I will assume is what is literally turning the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, he's using a &lt;em&gt;bow lathe&lt;/em&gt;, a turning method that goes back at least as far as ancient Egypt and still in wide use by craftsmen in the Middle East, as well as in Africa and across Asia. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The photo in the Question is a bit murky, easier to see the way it works in this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GbN9z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GbN9z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bow lathe in use&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sandal-woodsblog.com/2010/09/27/bow-lathes-by-gale-wollenberg/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bow lathes by Gale Wollenberg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here's a YouTube video showing one in use in Morocco, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wnv0DAR_gWA&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although in most bow lathes historically and today the workpiece itself is acted on by the bow, with the wood held between two dead centres, the same principle can be used to power a lathe more conventionally with the rotation transmitted to the work via a drive centre. Having the workpiece untethered allows use of smaller pieces of material which obviously can be very useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xbmo0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xbmo0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Modern or later bow lathe&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;strong&gt;Lathe design, construction and operation&lt;/strong&gt; by Oscar E. Perrigo, available to download for free &lt;a href=&quot;https://archive.org/details/lathedesignconst00perrrich&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;from Archive.org&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although this is old technology and might seem a little crude here it is in use in watchmaking!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o0zxN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o0zxN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bow lathe in watchmaking&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thepurists.net/patrons/members/ian_s/journetour/fpjtourb.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T10:26:32.967" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3979" CreationDate="2016-05-03T11:04:24.013" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This can be done safely on a table saw, although the workpiece &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; be held securely on a jig of some sort. With a slight mod one of the ripping sleds shown in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2484/methods-of-jointing-without-a-jointer/2487#2487&quot;&gt;this Answer&lt;/a&gt; could be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of power saws the bandsaw is the ideal choice for this, even allowing the cut to be done safely freehand. In addition it has the thinnest kerf so you lose the least amount of wood. Although this could be done freehand attaching the leg to a jig of some kind would help ensure a good result, a version of those commonly used to cut small logs seems the perfect starting point:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dQxax.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dQxax.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Log sled 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/bandsaw-resawing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bandsaw Resawing&lt;/a&gt; on Popular Woodworking.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XQj9G.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XQj9G.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Log sled 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2555&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lumberjocks&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously a cut like this can be made by hand but a fair amount of experience is needed to get a long straight rip cut in thin material. This would ideally be done using a dedicated ripsaw and not a saw with multi-purpose teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T11:04:24.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3976" CreationDate="2016-05-03T11:48:43.660" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When drilling screw holes for acrylic should I make it slightly larger than the actual diameter of the screw hole so that it does not crack? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very much yes. You're not drilling pilot holes here, you're drilling &lt;em&gt;clearance holes&lt;/em&gt; which are completely different. See more in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2708/are-there-specific-types-of-screws-i-should-use-for-woodworking/2714#2714&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Depth of the screw hole for the birch plywood. Would 3/4&quot; suffice or should I drill same length as the length of the screw since it is hard wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This applies elsewhere in your proposed build as well, it would actually be much better if the plan didn't call for screws to be driven into the sides of the plywood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hold of screws in ply is &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; better if driven in through the face and not into the edges. The difference is so great that it can be worth the trouble to cut smaller pieces of plywood and then glue them together in a stack to achieve a sufficient thickness. Alternatively you can use the trick posted at the end of the Answer linked to above where you drill a hole and glue in a dowel for the screw to bite into but this may require buying a larger bit (sized to the dowel used) as well as possibly a suitable saw for cutting the dowels flush with the surface. Some sanding will probably also be required to make them completely flush with the face of the plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am trying to minimise screws showing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the sides you can do what's called a counterbore (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3612/what-joining-methods-would-be-best-for-the-legs-and-other-areas-of-a-height-adju/3613#3613&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;) and plug those with wood or fill with wood filler to hide the screw heads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Will this setting be strong enough? I am concerned about 2mm acrylic panel wobbling especially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Four screws holding the acrylic in place is very likely not sufficient to prevent it sagging. I think the ideal for this is for a slightly larger piece to be used where all four edges would be set into a groove or rabbet/rebate, similar to how the bottom of many boxes are done. If you do want to secure it with screws a few more should be spaced around the perimeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; for the top screws holding the polycarbonate not to sit proud of the surface the drilled holes need to be countersunk and if you don't have a combination drill/pilot/countersink bit you will need to buy a countersink separately. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Countersinks are not all very well made and many cheaper ones are not very sharp so you might want to practice doing the countersinks on a scrap of the acrylic to ensure a clean and even result (e.g. oval holes are easy to create by accident). In addition to the possibly unevenness a blunter countersink will begin to heat the plastic and it could actually melt at worst. So controlling the speed of the drill is vital. Also be very careful how hard you press during both the drilling and countersinking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T11:48:43.660" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3976" CreationDate="2016-05-03T12:02:50.450" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other answers seem to have covered your main questions, but there's something you may not have considered - if the boards are to be cut by CNC router then you will not get sharp internal corners (e.g. 90° degree cuts), instead these will have a small fillet (radius between corners) due to the way the router works. The radius of the fillet will be the radius of the cutting bit used. This may be as small as 0.5mm radius but it might affect you so it's worth thinking about. In reality you can probably just clean this up yourself with a chisel or the guys at the workshop might do it for you if you ask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also as a more general point, 2mm acrylic is going to be very flimsy - since it's only attached at the edges you may get some warping or wobbling. If it was my design I'd want to use something a bit thicker or add screws to the centre. You could use countersunk screws and finish them flush with the top of the acrylic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T12:02:50.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3976" CreationDate="2016-05-03T14:57:23.497" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I am trying to minimise screws showing.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The approach shown by the red screws in your diagram will be visible even if you counterbore and plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Furniture block joint&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative is to use battens on the insides of the corners and use screws from the inside. Or just glue it if you have (or can buy/borrow) a couple of clamps. This is the sort of joint you see in some old apple crates etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Box joint&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option, since you can get wood CNC cut, is to get them to cut fingers for a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Finger_joint&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;box-joint&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="158" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T14:57:23.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3987" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-03T18:58:03.807" Score="7" ViewCount="10557" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to attempt to make use of some wood that I've got and turn it into a table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked everywhere for table legs which I can screw into the wood but every table leg I see needs a minimum depth of 25mm for the wood, whereas my wood is much thinner at 18mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anyway to attach table legs to this thin wood? Or any other way I can make this into a table?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would love the help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2215" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-05-03T19:17:31.637" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T23:53:55.093" Title="How to attach table legs to wood that is too thin?" Tags="|wood|tabletop|table-making|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3987" CreationDate="2016-05-03T19:17:17.940" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ive looked everywhere for table legs which I can screw into the wood but every table leg I see needs a minimum depth of 25mm for the wood, whereas my wood is much thinner at 18mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my Imperial unit friends, 25mm = 1&quot;, and 18mm = 11/16&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you want to keep this as simple as possible, is there any reason you can't screw through the top of the table into the legs instead of screwing the legs into the tabletop?  In other words, screw from the top down into the legs.  You'll have screw heads showing on the top, if that bothers you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there anyway to attach table legs to this thin wood? Or any other way I can make this into a table?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often, tables are made with an apron around the perimeter of the legs that serves to 1.) stiffen the top and 2.) give the legs a better place to attach to.  The image below shows a view from outside the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/03hGO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/03hGO.png&quot; alt=&quot;apron&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.osbornewood.com/table-kits.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few ways to accomplish this type of joint.  The image below shows one such way.  If you google &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=table%20top%20apron%20construction&amp;amp;ie=utf-8&amp;amp;oe=utf-8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;table top apron construction&lt;/a&gt;&quot; or similar keywords, you'll find a plethora of ways to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r4L3K.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r4L3K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;apron #2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.osbornewood.com/tableaprons.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of using an apron, the legs themselves are usually not attached directly to the table top.  Instead, the apron is attached to the top, which is a far more robust connection than just a single screw from a leg into the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-05-03T19:22:40.890" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T19:22:40.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3987" CreationDate="2016-05-03T20:26:28.700" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;18mm isn't actually particularly thin, many smaller pieces use 1/2&quot; material (roughly 13mm) for their tops and numerous sizeable tables have tops 18mm thick or less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For tables, legs are almost never truly attached &lt;em&gt;directly&lt;/em&gt; to the underside of the top, they are most commonly attached to something (a batten or a mounting flange of some sort) or made into a framework structure (the apron assembly) and it is those which are then fixed to the tabletop in some way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;every table leg I see needs a minimum depth of 25mm for the wood&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This requirement is based on the screws that are shipped with the legs (plus probably a margin of error built in).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible that all you need to do to successfully use a commercial leg like this for your application is to substitute the screws supplied with shorter screws of the same gauge or thickness. The hold will not be as good, but it may be good enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case screws can only be safely driven in approximately 12mm which may not seem like much but it could be sufficient because of the number used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T20:26:28.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3990" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3995" CreationDate="2016-05-04T00:23:15.417" Score="7" ViewCount="18760" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a black oxide bit and a titanium bit but do not understand what the difference, if any, is between them. Is it how long they last or how they cut the wood? Anything on this would be great!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-05-04T03:53:54.880" LastActivityDate="2020-07-18T11:59:44.973" Title="What is the difference between a black oxide bit and a titanium bit?" Tags="|drill-bits|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3991" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-04T00:33:35.473" Score="4" ViewCount="4318" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I and how do I sharpen reciprocating saw, or Sawzall (as some people call it) blades? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some that go dull and I want to know if I can't simply sharpen them instead of them going to waste. If I can sharpen them where do I go? from the front of the tooth or the back? Any angles to be aware of? Knowing anything would be very helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-05-04T11:29:41.053" LastActivityDate="2019-05-13T14:13:59.260" Title="How can I sharpen a reciprocating saw blade?" Tags="|power-tools|sharpening|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3991" CreationDate="2016-05-04T02:14:09.873" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rambling backgrounder -- sorry: these are typically called 'reciprocating saws', though the Kleenex of the bunch is the Sawzall (r) by Milwaukee. (edit to say that will only be a meaningful statement to people that read the edit history of the original question...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While there are many different tooth profiles available in reciprocating saw blades, a typical one will look a lot like a normal sawblade. You could google 'sharpen a handsaw blade', and you'd get an idea of how to do it (flatten, sharpen, set, if memory serves, but I could be very wrong).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Except that the teeth are typically smaller and more closely set. So most people I know consider these blades to be consumable and disposable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other advice I can offer is to avoid overheating the blade while cutting -- this seems to dull more quickly. Use all of the blade's sharp parts... in other words, use up the teeth near the shoe, then use the end teeth for something like a plunge cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastEditorUserId="503" LastEditDate="2016-05-05T02:07:22.503" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T02:07:22.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3979" CreationDate="2016-05-04T02:54:37.433" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not cut chair legs with an irregular profile, but I have successfully ripped 1&quot; diameter dowels.  The process is to make a sled and run it through the table saw.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jpA4K.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jpA4K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the sled is inverted from what you might normally consider a sled.  The sled is made as shown with a square tunnel running the length of the sled and capped at the rear end.  You will have to carefully rip the three long components to fit your dimensional requirements, then screw, glue, or nail them together. The cap has a hole drilled in it which is the same size as the end of the leg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nestle the leg in the tunnel and insert the leg into the hole in the cap.&#xA;Adjust the fence on the table saw to the desired position, presumable dead center on the circle, but offset if you wish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then the sled through the saw and, voila, you will end up with a perfectly cut piece.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T02:54:37.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3991" CreationDate="2016-05-04T03:38:53.990" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have some that go dull and I want to know if I can't simply sharpen them instead of them going to waste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like all blades they will go dull after repeated use and become less efficient. A grinding wheel or cut off wheel with a profile that better matches you blade (You can easily shape your own) would be a simple approach to this. Most wheels have flat edges. Using something harder to grind the wheel will give you a better edge to fit in between the teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These blades are usually fairly cheap. It might not be worth your time to get perfect teeth or even have them professionally sharpened like those you would need on a good handsaw. Running the teeth through the wheel you can touch up a blade in less that a couple of minutes. Reciprocating saw blades are not meant for creating nice clean edges which is another reason you don't need to worry about the end result as much. For the most part just match the angle of the blade as best as you can. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wheels are preferred for speed and something like bi-metal blades could easily be tougher than your files. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sxBFLM9_dHo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is a video of a gentlemen running a blade under a grinding wheel.&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though should help you get more out of your blades. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Commercial Options&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course depending on how serious you are about this concept there are dedicated tools for this job as well. Like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jarviscanada.com/showprod.php?p=SBR2&amp;amp;g=Beef&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one I found from Jarvis&lt;/a&gt;. Not advocating the product as I know nothing about it just showing you there are products out there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-05-04T03:50:19.220" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T03:50:19.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3990" CreationDate="2016-05-04T04:04:41.110" Score="5" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Black Oxide&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bits coated with black oxide should be cheaper than titanium ones. They have decent heat resistance. Most sites that talk about the breakdown between the types rate these for better water, rust and corrosion resistance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Titanium&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Titanium is a little ambiguous as there are multiple coating that use titanium. For the most part though they should outlast black oxide bits and are better rated for heat resistance. so you should be able to run them faster for longer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;What does this mean for a woodworker?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both bits are rated for more or less the same materials. It is true that titanium coated should outlast a black oxide coated bit. However, for a wood worker, they should both be just fine and provide the same results in relatively comparative times (This largely depends on each bits size and pitch as well as some other factors). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T04:04:41.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3981" CreationDate="2016-05-04T15:31:27.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know how important this project is, or what your budget is, but in the long run, doing this right will save you money.  If it was my call to make, I would do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scrap the plywood for another purpose.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut 3/4&quot; MDF to size.  MDF is more dimensionally stable so long as you don't soak it directly with water.  See step 3 for this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seal and paint the MDF. See this article: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-to/article/tips-for-painting-mdf.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-to/article/tips-for-painting-mdf.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attach it and proceed with the rest of the project.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck!  Don't waste too much time agonizing over the plywood, your time is of value, too! PS - I'm not seeing why you need to paint, won't this part be concealed anyway? I think some sealing as per the article might suffice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1457" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T15:31:27.930" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3979" CreationDate="2016-05-04T16:15:47.303" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since this sounds like a hypothetical question (original was already cut, for better or worse, by Uncle Handy), I suggest the use of a sharp, hand-held rip saw, provided you can handle one properly and will take the time to correctly mark and steady the workpiece.  It will save time and wood (yes, wood - because you don't have to build a small piece of furniture just to make a single cut.)  Also, you get the bonus of working quietly and with no dust (or fingers, or kicked-back wooden missiles) flying around.  Plus, you'll learn a valuable skill. Not knocking power tools, I choose them for most shop tasks, but this sounds like a hand-tool job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1457" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T16:15:47.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3998" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-04T20:24:17.607" Score="0" ViewCount="933" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am about to stain a new redwood deck. Does anybody have first-hand experience with a good stain for Direct/Heavy Sunlight? I live in a hot and arid part of Colorado and we have used a few different stains on some older wood fences and decks. They all failed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This year we built a new deck and I am about to stain. I have read the reviews on a lot of expensive and inexpensive stains. I can't tell based on the even amounts of good vs. bad stains which one will hold up. I have read that oil-based is the way to go as opposed to water-based. We have a dog that frequents the deck and don't  want to see the trail from the dog walking up and down the deck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another question, I was reading here that you may want your deck to sit for an extended period of time before staining it. Is this recommended? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-season-a-new-deck/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-season-a-new-deck/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1941" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2016-05-04T21:04:00.480" LastActivityDate="2021-01-11T18:21:56.240" Title="I am about to stain a new Redwood deck. Does anybody have first hand experience with a good stain for Direct/Heavy Sunlight?" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3998" CreationDate="2016-05-04T23:40:44.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I definitely would wait to stain...two-three weeks should be enough. The wood has natural oils in it so waiting gives it time to dry out. Personally, I would use a natural color of stain that's for direct Sun. Wish I could suggest a certain brand. I'm thinking if done carefully and done right you would probably be safe using any of the main brands. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2219" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T23:40:44.173" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3987" CreationDate="2016-05-04T23:53:55.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use a countersink drill bit then use some wood filler to fill in the countersink. Hope you figure it out. Post a pic when you are done or let us know what you did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2219" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T23:53:55.093" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1604" CreationDate="2016-05-05T19:14:20.780" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Additions you might not think of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sharpening stones with different grits - because while you can do any sharpening job with a fine stone, you can save considerable time using a coarser stone when starting a job that requires significant material removal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Safety glasses - I'm a safety nut, so I can't work without glasses.  Spares ensure that I won't misplace this essential item and delay work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean-up brushes - I keep a couple lying around within reach to sweep away dust and shavings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shop-vacs - my shop is somewhat large (24' x 32'), and shop vacs are a nuisance to drag around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spare blades - a dinged blade on a planer or jointer can be a show-stopper.  Doesn't suck to have spares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hex (Allen) wrenches - keep the right size(s) next to each tool that requires it(them) for set-up/adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1457" LastEditorDisplayName="user1457" LastEditDate="2016-05-05T19:36:45.137" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T19:36:45.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2272" CreationDate="2016-05-05T21:24:53.663" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Forstner is best, but you said you don't have one.  If you have a spare, crappy old twist bit of the right diameter you can start the holes with the bit, then flatten the bit on a belt sander, then take your grinder to it to restore a clearance angle at the cutting edges (don't take off too much or you'll lose your flat edge.)  Finish the holes with the flattened bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1457" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T21:24:53.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4005" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-05T23:33:02.860" Score="5" ViewCount="315" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in recycling as fuel all the coarse dust, chips, shavings, and small otherwise useless pieces that I can.  Can anyone tell me, from personal experience, how to convert such matter into usable form, and about clean and safe options for burning it?  I'm thinking in terms of making pellets or otherwise compressing the wood, and burning it in some kind of stove, but am open to all valid methods.  Also curious as to any woods that are naturally more toxic to burn (other than the obvious MDF, plywood, and the like.)  It would mean a lot to me to waste as little as possible (especially since I have some interest in wood turning, which strikes me as being tremendously wasteful of material from a percentage of mass point of view.)  Perhaps my volume of material won't produce a ton of heat, but it'd make me feel good to do it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks much!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1457" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T08:55:27.923" Title="Can anyone offer guidance on heating with wood waste from the shop?" Tags="|sawdust|toxicity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4005" CreationDate="2016-05-06T08:55:27.923" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't have to further process the waste wood you describe to make it a usable fuel, it's already in a form that will burn quite well :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In essence if it'll fit in your stove you can burn it, although you can create pellets or bricks from chips/dust/shavings to help slow burning and maximise heat output. From reading around it would appear that most woodworkers who burn their waste don't bother but that doesn't mean anything. Whether this is worth the time and effort is an individual decision, and will in part be based on the type of stove used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also curious as to any woods that are naturally more toxic to burn (other than the obvious MDF, plywood, and the like.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether to burn MDF and plywood scraps, or whether you can &lt;em&gt;safely&lt;/em&gt;, in the woodshop is a contentious issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people do it but some won't, and while some who won't do not state why that is others point to the safety issue of burning the urea-formaldehyde glue commonly used to bind MDF and bond the layers in plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look online some sources state you shouldn't burn this type of material because it will release toxic gases (principally formaldehyde) &lt;em&gt;into the room being heated&lt;/em&gt;. But we're not talking about open fires, where you most definitely would not want to burn anything like MDF on a regular basis. Any stove properly made and installed is of course already set up to prevent smoke and gases from escaping into the room. So in reality the risk from burning this material in a stove (particularly a modern one) is not what it's often made out to be and it could be perfectly safe to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now this is in relation to you in your workshop, but there is an additional concern and that's with what's coming out of the chimney or stovepipe. If your workshop is close to other people any toxins released in your smoke must be taken into account. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good modern stoves re-burn their smoke and this may reduce emissions to acceptable levels but obviously you'd need to look into this further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Legal issues&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Capping all of the above, depending on where you live it may be illegal for you to burn this sort of material. This is something each person must look up for themselves as local regulations may apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T08:55:27.923" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4007" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4009" CreationDate="2016-05-06T11:27:11.407" Score="8" ViewCount="32957" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on putting up 3 sets of shelves in our utility room but am uncertain whether I should put the shelves up with cleats or brackets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure most of you will know what I mean but in case I am using the terms wrong here is what I mean by putting up the shelves with cleats:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zHiko.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zHiko.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shelves with cleats&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;&lt;br/&gt;(Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fourgenerationsoneroof.com/2013/11/diy-floating-shelves-laundry-room&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;www.fourgenerationsoneroof.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and here is what I mean by putting up the shelves with brackets:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BTTPQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BTTPQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shelves with brackets&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;(image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diy.com/help-advice/how-to-put-up-a-shelf/CC_npcart_1500010.art&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;www.diy.com (expand the rustic shelves part)&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past I have always used brackets but this is because the shelves were normally in the middle of a wall and not spanning it from one side of the room to the other. However, in this project the shelves will be just as pictured above although the length of each shelf will be greater. Also, I had never heard of cleats until now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a breakdown of what the shelves are likely to be made of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Soft wood&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 meters (6.5ft) long (this spans one side of the room to the other)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.3 meters (1ft) wide&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1cm (1/2&quot;) thick&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Used for holding a couple of large bottles of detergent and then smaller odds and ends&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this the correct usage of cleats and, assuming it is, are there advantages to using them that make them a better choice than using brackets?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2157" LastEditorUserId="2157" LastEditDate="2016-05-09T16:22:44.203" LastActivityDate="2020-01-05T22:10:17.110" Title="Should I use cleats or brackets when putting up shelves?" Tags="|technique|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4007" CreationDate="2016-05-06T12:10:25.300" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Weight of what you're supporting matters, as well as thickness of the wood.  If the load can get heavy, use brackets, as they will lend more support to the middle of the shelf.  Even though there is a cleat running the width of the back edge, you're depending upon the shelf's resistance to deflection under stress to support the front (middle) of the shelf.  If there's any doubt, put in the brackets if you can.  If the load is lighter, I'm sure cleats will be fine, and will make for a nicer looking installation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1457" LastEditorDisplayName="user1457" LastEditDate="2016-05-06T12:20:42.530" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T12:20:42.530" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4007" CreationDate="2016-05-06T13:20:12.593" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;My comments were running long, so I figured I'd make an answer out of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a nook that you're putting the shelf in, similar to your &quot;cleats&quot; link, then you should be able to use the cleat method, just like in that link. Since you're spanning from one side of the room to the other, you should be able to put your edge cleats on the side walls and fully support your shelf. The front rail of the shelf will help prevent bowing of the board, but for a 2m run, you'll end up with more than a bottle of detergent and a couple of odds-and-ends up there, and you'll need more support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sagulator&lt;/a&gt;, your 2m x .3m x 1cm shelf in Eastern White Pine (just a random guess on the wood - you said softwood), with a 2.5cm x 5cm (1x2 inches) edging strip (along the front) and an evenly space 30 lbs (14-ish kg) per foot is going to give you .75cm of sag in the middle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doubling your shelf thickness to 2cm will reduce that sag to .46cm which they deem an acceptable amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you can use any manner of decorative wooden or metal brackets at stud spacing (18&quot; (45cm) US) and you should have more than enough support. I went back to the 1cm thick board and increased the load to 45Kg &lt;em&gt;per 30cm&lt;/em&gt; to get a 0.002&quot; deflection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What should you use?&lt;/strong&gt; Whatever is most aesthetically pleasing to you, yet suitable to the load and situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your shelf is not running wall-to-wall, there is no way a single cleat along the rear of the shelf will hold up the shelf itself, to say nothing of the load on it. You'll have to use brackets in that situation, just as you've done in the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-05-07T05:49:45.150" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T05:49:45.150" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4007" CreationDate="2016-05-07T02:26:12.630" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to hang the shelf with cleats, you will need to have thicker shelves, as demonstrated by Freeman's sagulator calculations.  However, note that you do not need a solid, thick shelf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Floating shelves are commonly built as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.core77.com/posts/26334/A-Look-at-Torsion-Boxes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;torsion boxes&lt;/a&gt;--essentially the same technique used in construction of hollow core doors, and even corrugated cardboard.  In fact, the skins, or the top and bottom layers, only need to be thick enough to limit deflection between the walls of the underlying internal lattice.  The overall resistance to deflection is determined by the thickness of the torsion box, not so much by the thickness of the top and bottom skins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could build a 12&quot; deep torsion box that either is or isn't supported on the sides and can easily support 200 lbs in the middle, assuming you properly anchor your cleats to the wall and properly fix the shelf to the cleats.  It will be easier if the torsion box rests on top of the cleats, but you can also use integral cleats which essentially serve as the back and side walls of the torsion box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2016-05-07T02:31:34.053" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T02:31:34.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4007" CreationDate="2016-05-08T05:01:00.903" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For light utility use, I strongly prefer cleats:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) they're easier to install in most situation because your cleat is guaranteed to span a few studs (unless it's very short); (2) after the first screw but before the second is in, it's easy to use a level to guarantee that your finished shelves will be level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes I use a bracket in the center of the shelf if I need the extra strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using only brackets tends to be a pain in my experience, since my studs inevitably are in strange and ugly places on the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2227" LastActivityDate="2016-05-08T05:01:00.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4013" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-08T10:00:53.537" Score="3" ViewCount="274" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently making a wooden sign with lots of details in it for interior use. I usually finish those with a coat of danish oil, but for a change, I wanted to apply a high gloss finish. My main concern is the amount of details in the sign which would be hard to apply a finish uniformly to them, plus reaching the depth of the v-carved details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a finish which is easy to apply and forgiving which would achieve this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1058" LastActivityDate="2016-05-08T18:33:26.377" Title="High gloss finish for wooden sign" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4013" CreationDate="2016-05-08T14:18:01.827" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many high gloss finishes such as varnish, lacquer and shellac can be sprayed (either from a can or a HVLP) which makes applying it to irregular surfaces a bit easier compared to brushing. That said there is no reason you couldn't achieve the results you are looking for with a brush and some patience. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thinning the finishes will also make it easier to get the finish to flow into the detailed areas but will require more coats. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastEditorUserId="11" LastEditDate="2016-05-08T18:33:26.377" LastActivityDate="2016-05-08T18:33:26.377" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4015" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-09T01:23:09.143" Score="4" ViewCount="2195" Body="&lt;p&gt;I plan on starting to laminate soon. I was hoping to just do long pieces with each piece of wood would be as long as the the entire work. However, after looking at my stock, In order to get the best thickness I have to cut up the lengths to account for some warping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see on some lamination finger joints are used. I am just working with pine and don't have the means to do efficient fingers joints. I want to do just butt joints as the face of the wood should bear most of the burden. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I actually need to &quot;glue&quot; the butt joints together before laminating them to another piece? Do I work like I would a normal whole piece and just laminate the whole thing with clamps on either end?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-05-09T02:32:46.100" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T11:46:49.753" Title="What are my options when laminating wood with butt joints?" Tags="|technique|joinery|laminating|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4015" CreationDate="2016-05-09T02:10:11.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rather than simply butting the joints, try to lap the ends of connecting boards by cutting the ends on a steep bevel or creating a lap joint.  A table saw can get you up to 45 degrees where the angled length matches the board thickness. If the board is not wider than the height of your blade you can increase the length of the angled edge by using a jig. OF course a hand or band saw allows you to increase the length of contact between lapping boards. The more extreme the angle , the more contact surface is available to transfer stresses across the abutting  boards. If you create a flat lap  joint you can extend the lap as long as you determine is necessary to transfer the stress across the joints. Of course if there are multiple layers of laminated wood the alternate layers can also accommodate transferring the stress although if you are creating a top surface to support much weight its sagging performance will not match a simlar board that is continuous across its full thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T02:10:11.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4015" CreationDate="2016-05-09T03:35:53.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you offset the places where each layer of laminate butts together -- like a &quot;running bond&quot; in brickwork -- you can distribute the weakness of the butt joints across the piece. Ideally no two of them would line up, but even if every other row lines up as with the bricks the much stronger long-grain to long-grain glue lines between layers will hold things together pretty darned well -- think of it as a micro-finger-joint where the fingers are created by shifting the butt junction back and forth each time you add a layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T03:35:53.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4015" CreationDate="2016-05-09T04:22:11.450" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One sure way to join end-to-end pieces in a lamination is to use scarf joints (also called scarph joints).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OoDtJ.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OoDtJ.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jimsboats.com/1sep11.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can readily cut the joints by making tapered cuts on your table saw by using a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ptreeusa.com/taper_jigs.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;commercial jig&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t5hHm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t5hHm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or by using a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodsmithshop.com/media/pdf/210/perfecttapers.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;homemade jig&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wqI30.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wqI30.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, there are many different commercial offerings and, likewise,many different ways to construct your own.  I like the homemade version shown here because of the clamping feature, which makes it easier and safer to use.  It would be a good choice for your projects since it sounds like you are planning to make many cuts in the process of making your laminated members.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can glue the scarf joints and the laminations in one fell swoop, but it will be cumbersome and tricky to hold everything in position, apply glue and set the clamps.  Better would be to glue the scarfs, then do the laminations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally the face laminates would be one piece, but the scarf joints will work perfectly well.  There is little concern with regard to the inner layers, especially if you stagger the scarfs so they do not overlap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T04:22:11.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4015" CreationDate="2016-05-09T11:46:49.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was going to tack this on the end but I think I should start with it since it may supersede all the below. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re. the warped boards, because of the great strength and stability of the completed glued-up panel it can be perfectly fine to have a few cupped or twisted boards in the mix. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Axxbk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Axxbk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Arranging boards for glued-up slab&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Source:&lt;/strong&gt; Woodsmith Magazine&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you follow a few basic rules of construction (e.g. try not to mix quarter-sawn and plain-sawn wood, don't mix woods of different MCs, apply enough adhesive and bring the pieces together in sufficient time to fully wet all glue surfaces and last but not least clamp &lt;em&gt;hard&lt;/em&gt; to squeeze out all excess glue) you shouldn't have any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In reality I bet that rarely has anyone done a large assembly like this where every board has been absolutely flat and straight! Some of that is budgetary constraints, especially when working in hardwoods, but in large part it is because it just doesn't matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I see on some lamination finger joints are used. I am just working with pine and don't have the means to do efficient fingers joints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm theorising here but on some commercial stuff the finger-jointed ends are done merely because that's the way they always do it. There are times where finger-jointed ends may be more for convenience in handling the stock rather than as a means to improved strength, because the strength they do add is not usually required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In something like an Ikea-type countertop where the panel is predominantly made from pretty short lengths of wood then finger-jointed ends could indeed add some needed strength. But where the top is largely made up of long (especially full-length) boards glued face to face then a few butt joints spaced around the glue-up won't affect strength in any way you'd notice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the face of the wood should bear most of the burden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is correct, the joined faces will hold the piece together. Long-grain glue joints as you know are at least as strong as the wood if done well, so even without being glued together the end butt joints are no more disruptive than if you'd sawed through a piece of solid wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do I actually need to &quot;glue&quot; the butt joints together before laminating them to another piece? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, you might choose to but it's not necessary. It's fine to just glue them while doing the overall glue-up, as long as you're not losing time and working efficiently (you don't want to have glue partially set on the first few boards before bringing the whole assembly together and adding clamp pressure). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to err on the side of caution size the end grain with diluted glue a few minutes before doing the glue-up, this will maximise the joint strength by preventing the full-strength glue from being over-absorbed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do I work like I would a normal whole piece and just laminate the whole thing with clamps on either end?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the total length, the width (hence the number of glue lines), as well as the type of glue and the temperature and humidity where you're working you may prefer to glue up in sections, thirds or halves of the total top. Once these are fully cured you can then do a very easy final glue-up of the two or three sections to make up the full top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T11:46:49.753" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4020" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-09T13:06:20.130" Score="1" ViewCount="241" Body="&lt;p&gt;How strong is a titanium coated bit? Some people say that it can not be sharpened by a diamond file or a grinding wheel while others say yes. How much longer does a titanium bit last compared to other bits? like HSS, or carbon oxide? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T18:16:12.320" Title="How strong is a titanium coated bit?" Tags="|drill-bits|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-05-12T08:29:57.777" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4021" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-09T15:58:38.683" Score="4" ViewCount="431" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to know how I could make wooden gears at home without the need of a CNC or a laser. What tool should I use, what are the steps to making one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-05-09T18:41:00.720" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T08:23:21.390" Title="How to make a wood gear?" Tags="|wood|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4020" CreationDate="2016-05-09T18:16:12.320" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As one of the comments has already touched on this is actually impossible to answer. It's a &quot;How long is a piece of string?&quot; question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How much longer does a titanium bit last compared to other bits? like HSS, or carbon oxide? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sounds a bit like you're under the impression that &quot;titanium bits&quot; are made from titanium, in case you are: they're not. They're merely coated with a titanium compound (these days, primarily titanium nitride which is a brassy colour). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Titanium nitride is I think fairly uniform in properties, but the bits to which it is applied are anything but. It's actually widely reported that the coating on consumer-level bits is the go-faster stripe of the drill bit world, made to attract the eye of buyers but with no promise of anything in terms of quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if the questions was &quot;How strong are TN-coated HSS bits?&quot; it's still unanswerable because there are multiple versions of HSS, and heat-treating for even a single type can result in different end properties same as it can for basic carbon steel (hence the differences in hardness and brittleness between a vintage chisel and a vintage screwdriver, both of which are typically made from exactly the same steel).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T18:16:12.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4023" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4027" CreationDate="2016-05-10T04:11:37.783" Score="5" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just created my first cutting board and coated it with some salad bowl finish. My question is what is the process for finishing the project? How many coats of finish do I need to put on it and at what point is it safe to eat off of, at what point is it safe to wash with soap and water etc etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1035" LastActivityDate="2021-10-01T07:58:37.573" Title="Process for Food Safe Finishing" Tags="|finishing|safety|process|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4021" CreationDate="2016-05-10T08:23:21.390" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;All you really need is a template and a way to shape inside corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shaping the inside corners can be done with a file, a strip sander, a bandsaw,...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To create one you make the template of the gear you want glue it to the wood and then remove wood up to the line. With a bandsaw you can first cut out the outside circle and then cut out the spurs. you could also use a drill to remove most of the material between the teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T08:23:21.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4023" CreationDate="2016-05-10T08:57:48.397" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kitchen worktop oils are usually food safe, though some make this clearer than others. Certainly pure linseed oil (not &amp;quot;boiled&amp;quot;) is actually edible if you want to take it to extremes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would allow extra curing time per coat and plenty of coats, really trying to let the early coats soak in, if it's to be immersed in water for washing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cutting boards will need frequent retreatment as the surface will get damaged in use. The only wooden board I have is for bread, so only needs wiping, rinsing and drying at most, meaning the water doesn't have time to soak in. Butcher blocks are at the other extreme.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2021-10-01T07:58:37.573" LastActivityDate="2021-10-01T07:58:37.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4026" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-10T09:41:46.187" Score="5" ViewCount="3165" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently do projects for other college students and organizations in order to make some easy spending money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am building a folding 2ft by 8ft table. The overall plans of the table is that I made two frames (both 2ft by 4ft) out of 2x3s topped with 1/2&quot; maple plywood (also 2ft by 4ft.) I then replaced that plywood with a thicker 3/4&quot; maple plywood. Both halves are connected by a 24&quot; long continuous hinge from the underneath (where the 2x3s are.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I attempted to put folding banquet legs but then kept running into the issue that the table would not stay flat and would cave down in the middle. I assumed at first that it was the position of the table legs and placed them closer to the center of the table. However, I ran into the same issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What advice can you give me in order to keep the table up in a locked and sturdy position? I would not mind even using 2x4s as the legs if I had too. Any information is gratefully taken. Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2231" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-05-11T00:55:00.243" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T00:55:00.243" Title="Folding table issue" Tags="|technique|design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4023" CreationDate="2016-05-10T10:16:06.073" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have just created my first cutting board and coated it with some salad bowl finish. My question is what is the process for finishing the project? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you like you just completed the finishing since how much to, or even &lt;em&gt;whether to&lt;/em&gt;, finish a board is totally up to the individual. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the distant past boards almost certainly went unfinished, and anyway the care process meant than any finish that might have been applied would be worn off in no time. In the recent past boards, if finished, were invariably coated in vegetable oils or oil/wax blends. These days mineral oil (UK: liquid paraffin) is nearly ubiquitous although a small subset of the rest of board makers use a finish such as the one you've used, either bought or homemade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How many coats of finish do I need to put on it &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depends on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The wood(s) and how absorbent it is or they are. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The exact nature of the wood piece or pieces (flat-sawn, quarter-sawn, end grain, softwood or hardwood, if hardwood whether open-pored or close-grained). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much use the board will see and to a degree with what type of knives (plain edge or serrated).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What exactly you'll use the board for (bread, veg only, meat and veg, mostly meat).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much time you're willing to put into finishing it. Given approximately one day drying time between coats (assuming I'm thinking of the right 'salad bowl finish' {stupid product name!}} if you want to put on four or five coats it'll take you most of the rest of the week, followed by the requisite wait period for the finish to cure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much finish you &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; it needs. This is probably the most important single factor actually.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;and at what point is it safe to eat off&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to mention, it was safe to eat off when you completed the work on the wood :-) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's safe after one coat of finish and it'll be safe if you put on five or ten more coats &lt;em&gt;once the finish is cured&lt;/em&gt;. This may take a couple of weeks, or a month or so depending on a few variables (mainly the temp and humidity which most directly affect the drying time of varnish).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;at what point is it safe to wash with soap and water etc etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the finish is fully cured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quick tip: dry the board on its edge or supported by small blocks or something, &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; sitting flat on a surface. Never let a board dry flat if you can manage it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T10:16:06.073" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4026" CreationDate="2016-05-10T13:07:41.470" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect that the middle is sagging because it is not adequately braced.  Most of the folding tables that my parents own (that we use for family reunions as eating tables) are similar to the one below.  You will see a diagonal brace that runs towards the middle of the table to help with sag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zL8tWm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zL8tWm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;brace&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.lifetime.com/article/356130/is-your-folding-table-safe&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, you still wouldn't want to sit in the middle of this table, but it helps hold up the stuff you normally put on a table top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that these types of legs work best when the feet are grippy.  If they are just allowed to slide, then you still have a problem with sag since the feet will try to kick out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're using table legs like those below, they are more suited for solid-top tables with no hinge at the middle.  This is because there is no bracing like I described above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BVcxs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BVcxs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;legs #2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001DSZ300&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T13:07:41.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4029" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4030" CreationDate="2016-05-11T01:54:44.083" Score="7" ViewCount="724" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to build a cedar above ground planters box and have come up with a design that I like. I am fairly new to woodworking and have some concerns with my current plan of using screws+wood glue for all joinery. I only have a mitre saw and am not really that familiar with some of the more advanced joinery techniques.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the design that i've come up with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tv8m0.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tv8m0.png&quot; alt=&quot;Main Design&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was planning on using a couple of screws per vertical panel attaching to the top frame and bottom frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A close-up on the bottom frame itself:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iSAGm.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iSAGm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom Frame&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, was just planning on using 3&quot; wood screws to assemble the frame from cedar 2x4's with wood glue. The bottom panels here would also be screwed in longitudinally.  Is this plan just asking for trouble with wood movement in the future? I'd like for this to last a few years at least and look decent as well, but i don't have access to a table saw nor do i have much joinery experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2232" LastActivityDate="2021-05-19T12:55:30.667" Title="Is this cedar planter box design asking for problems w/ wood movement?" Tags="|wood-movement|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4029" CreationDate="2016-05-11T08:20:02.487" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're right to check about wood movement with the vertical orientation of the boards on the sides, which orients the &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1391/would-a-slab-constructed-from-2x4s-be-stable/1393#1393&quot;&gt;longitudinal grain&lt;/a&gt; horizontally (not vertically as you'd see in traditional chest construction for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if the design had those boards tightly fitted together, or especially if glued-up into single panels, the expansion and contraction could literally break the planters apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you sidestep this problem as you've kept the individual boards separate, the gaps allow each one to expand and contract on its own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bit more reading on wood movement from previous Q&amp;amp;As if you're in the mood:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/908/what-general-considerations-do-i-need-to-take-into-account-for-wood-movement/910#910&quot;&gt;What general considerations do I need to take into account for wood movement?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3441/what-is-the-maximum-width-for-a-full-cross-grain-glue-up/3533#3533&quot;&gt;What is the maximum width for a full cross grain glue up?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2439/stabilizer-for-softwood-tabletop-that-bows/2441#2441&quot;&gt;Stabilizer for softwood tabletop that bows&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T08:20:02.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4031" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-11T16:29:25.607" Score="1" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm putting subfloor in a cargo van. One of my plywood pieces is flush on one end by 1.5mm higher on the other. I'm thinking my two options are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull it out and redo it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sand it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I do #2, will a random orbital sander take forever to remove 1.5mm of hard plywood from about a 40&quot;x30&quot; plane? I know a belt sander would be better, but I don't own a power sander right now, and would rather buy a random orbital for future jobs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2236" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T10:58:32.027" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T10:58:32.027" Title="How do I fix one piece of plywood subfloor is 1.5mm higher than it's neighbor?" Tags="|plywood|sanding|ros|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4031" CreationDate="2016-05-11T17:15:33.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think your option 1 is partly the way to go, take some of it out, shim underneath and reinstall. More info on this and how it's done in the following links.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From our glorious DIY neighbour: &lt;a href=&quot;https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/4232/how-do-i-use-surface-shims-to-level-out-a-sloping-floor&quot;&gt;How do I use 'surface shims' to level out a sloping floor?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thefloorpro.com/community/floor-preparation/3404-flattening-subfloor-with-plywood.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;flattening subfloor with plywood!&lt;/a&gt; on the Floor Pro forums.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://homeguides.sfgate.com/lay-subfloor-uneven-floor-40687.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Lay Subfloor on an Uneven Floor&lt;/a&gt; on SF Gate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I do #2, will a random orbital sander take forever to remove 1.5mm of hard plywood from about a 40&quot;x30&quot; plane? I know a belt sander would be better, but I don't own a power sander right now, and would rather buy a random orbital for future jobs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you did want to go ahead and remove material an ROS fitted with a coarse disk (60 grit or even lower) would do it but obviously a lot slower than a belt sander. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibly the ideal tool to take off that much material from plywood in situ is a hand plane, even a small block plane would do it if you were patient and careful. Because of the layered construction in ply and the nature of most modern veneers the work isn't anything like as laborious as it would be removing that much material from solid wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:22:17.110" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T17:15:33.890" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4033" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-11T19:08:23.930" Score="7" ViewCount="4233" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend has asked me to make her a bunch of 4&quot; round drink coasters.  I'm trying to figure out the best most economical way to do it.  I made one this morning before work by just taking some flat stock and cutting it out on my band saw, but that didn't really produce a perfect circle even after a little sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd thought about maybe getting a cheap lathe and turning a 4x4?  I don't have any turning experience though and it seems a little on the dangerous side to try to round up a square piece of wood like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2024-01-28T21:24:58.013" Title="Best way to make round coasters" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4034" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-11T14:27:15.270" Score="1" ViewCount="230" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a hemlock rustic dining room table with a semi gloss finish.  I recently tried to buff a smudged area with 0000 steel wool and paste wax.  It left a haze with surface scratches on the finish.  How do I fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2238" OwnerDisplayName="L. Ritter" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2016-05-11T19:33:09.640" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T09:11:46.917" Title="Hemlock dining room table finish" Tags="|refinishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4033" CreationDate="2016-05-11T21:38:01.570" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Making things round is what lathes do. Turn a piece of wood and then use the band saw to slice off each coaster. You can rip a 4x4 into more of an octagon shape with the band saw to make it faster and safer to round it on the lathe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2016-05-12T13:38:24.960" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T13:38:24.960" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4033" CreationDate="2016-05-11T22:17:41.073" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to do this without having the end grain be the face of the coasters, here's a method you can use. It involves creating a template you can use with a router and flush trim bit to make copies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, prepare the work pieces that will become the coasters the same way you did before: using your bandsaw, cut a rough circle. Cut it a little big, maybe 1/16&quot; - 1/8&quot; larger than the final dimension of the coaster. You'll clean it up by tracing the template with a flush trim bit in your router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make the template, cut a 4&quot; blank using a hole saw drill bit such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-4-in-Bi-Metal-Hole-Saw-49-56-9645/202327761&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;. Hole saws leave a plug of wood, but will also have a hole in the middle of the plug where the pilot bit cut through, which is why you can't just use the hole saw plug as a coaster directly. (Unless you're okay with your coasters having a hole in them! Perhaps it's a feature, not a bug!) Clean up any roughness on the edges by sanding. I would use my bench sander for this, but you can do it by hand, too. The template should be made out of something about 1/4&quot; thick. Hardboard/Masonite is my usual go-to for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, you'll have to attach the template to the work piece. The standard way of doing this is by using double-sided carpet tape to tape the template and work piece together, but after you're done tracing the template, the carpet tape will leave some residue that you have to clean up, and more importantly you have to be careful the template doesn't move as you push against it with the router. WW.SE user &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/users/243/graphus&quot;&gt;Graphus&lt;/a&gt; suggested a better method of attaching the template. Take blue painters tape and put it on the surface of both the work piece and the template. Then superglue the two surfaces together. Unlike carpet tape, there is almost no risk of slipping, and no residue is left on the work piece after you've taken the painter's tape off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now adjust your router so the bearing on the flush trim bit will spin against the template. Route around the template, removing the excess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, pop off the template and remove the tape. You have a round coaster! The template can be reused to cut as many as you care to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T22:17:41.073" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4037" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4057" CreationDate="2016-05-12T07:57:37.843" Score="4" ViewCount="679" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an art piece composed of many strips of plywood put together. I'd like to hang it from a ceiling with wires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the tricky thing... The edges of the strips of plywood face the ceiling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't feel like putting a bolt with an eye loop  on it into the &lt;em&gt;edge&lt;/em&gt; of a piece of plywood would be very sturdy... What other hardware options do I have? Mount to the side of the wood? If so with what? Use a piece of hardware to straddle a piece of wood and clamp onto it, giving me a D loop on top? ...does that hardware even exist...?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The constraint that is fairly rigid, given this project, is that the piece is suspended from above by cables or something similar. The piece weighs about 200 pounds, it's about 12 feet across, and will be held by about 20 or so cables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M4GhJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M4GhJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;diagram of plywood and wires&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2240" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-06-01T04:47:34.650" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T04:47:34.650" Title="What are some good ways to hang plywood from a wire?" Tags="|safety|wood|plywood|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4038" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4039" CreationDate="2016-05-12T12:58:52.247" Score="2" ViewCount="6667" Body="&lt;p&gt;recently I've asked a woodworking professional to build me a table for my living room. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/urFMw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/urFMw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks good but the problem is: it is wobbly. I can pull and push it on the direction indicated below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9ieb4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9ieb4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wobbly table&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to guarantee that he fixes the problem so that's why I would appreciate your professional help: if he builds these &quot;triangular structures&quot;, does it fix the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6oIFg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6oIFg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Triagular structures&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would the problem really be fixed? Is there an better solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for using so many tags, i didn't know how to &quot;label&quot; the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2242" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T14:10:05.667" Title="Wobbly table - maybe an easy fix" Tags="|technique|wood|design|wood-movement|stability|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4038" CreationDate="2016-05-12T14:10:05.667" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on a wobble going toward the black chair, then yes, the triangular braces between the table top and the legs will resolve the wobble. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smaller braces would be better from a design perspective, but if they're too small, they won't be sufficient to stop the wobble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's difficult to tell, but it looks like there are small metal fasteners holding the legs to the table top, and they look like they've got 1&quot; - 1 1/2&quot; &quot;legs&quot;. It might be sufficient to beef those up (maybe double the length of each leg?) to give the table the stability it needs, instead of putting a large wooden wedge under there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of experimenting on your nice looking table, your &quot;woodworking professional&quot; may want to knock together a quick mock-up in cheap (low-grade, scrap) plywood to see how small he can make the bracing while still having it be sufficient to do the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T14:10:05.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4040" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4060" CreationDate="2016-05-12T16:02:49.440" Score="5" ViewCount="6177" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am putting together some boxes that have been mitred all around, they are sliding around and it takes me a lot of effort to put them together to stay and glue correctly. Anything I could do to make this easier? I do not want to use screws or anything like it because this is MDF with the front covered with a wood like look and do not want to wreck it as much as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-05-15T10:49:04.853" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T20:28:18.133" Title="What is an easy way of putting together a mitred box?" Tags="|boxes|gluing|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4040" CreationDate="2016-05-12T18:25:00.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the box is big enough, you can use shop made corner clamps like the ones featured in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/clamping/right-angle-jig-gives-you-a-corner-on-clamping-tasks/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this Wood magazine article&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the box is too small for that, it might be a good candidate for gluing up using tape as clamps, as demonstrated in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/tools/look-ma-no-clamps&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this Popular Woodworking article&lt;/a&gt;. Indeed, if it's small enough, like a small keepsake box, you can use one piece of tape, stick all the sides to it in order, and just wrap the whole thing up. At the very least, this should help stabilize the panels while you are clamping them together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T18:25:00.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4042" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-12T21:20:26.083" Score="5" ViewCount="12967" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently discovered carving as a very relaxing and pleasant hobby. From small branches of wood I whittle hair-sticks with interesting shapes (the kind of object you use to put long hair up) with small knives and use sandpaper (by hand) of various grits to even out the shape, make the surface smoother and shinier. I like to do the sanding outside, but I do it in my living room sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was never concerned about the safety of using sandpaper (at least manually) until I stumbled upon the subject somewhere on the web. Virtually everybody recommends using dust masks when sanding wood, but it seems that people generally refer to using power tools on large-ish things like pieces of furniture..?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am generally very (and sometimes over-)concerned about my health. On the one hand the amount of dust generated by finishing hair sticks seems very much insignificant compared to what kinds or techniques of woodworking are commonly assumed, but on the other what do I know, really! I have been uneasy working on the sticks since I read all the horror stories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, should I still wear a dust mask - or are my lungs damaged more by walking by a busy street for five minutes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2244" LastActivityDate="2017-03-27T11:48:35.087" Title="Do I need to worry about wood dust for very small-scale manual sanding?" Tags="|safety|sanding|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4037" CreationDate="2016-05-12T21:50:00.943" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is what I am thinking, you could drill holes in the wood and put the cable through the wood and and not the cable. Or make multiple holes and feed it through a few of them, still tying it in the end. So unless you are bad at knots nothing bad will happen. I would say that is the best plan for you to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2016-05-13T02:56:45.110" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T02:56:45.110" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4042" CreationDate="2016-05-12T22:23:43.763" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a question of degree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extensive sanding, especially by machine, puts a lot of fine wood dust into the air for extended periods. Even with dust collection,  in that environment a dust mask is a very good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're doing small amounts of sanding by hand, the exposure is much less and the body is more able to deal with it it. You might still want to consider an inexpensive mask as cheap insurance, but I wouldn't consider it necessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I happen to already have a decent cartridge-style respirator, but for what you describe I probably wouldn't bother with it... even thjough, since I have it on hand, it does sometimes get used for lower-hazard tasks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One caution: some woods are more toxic than others, and some can cause serious allergic-style reactions in some people. Sanding is one of the stronger local skin exposures, so if you are going to react to something this may be when it happens. More of a risk with &quot;exotic&quot; tropical woods, and unlikely to be serious unless your system is already compromised, but something to be aware of. If in doubt, stop for a while and wash off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-05-13T02:55:15.347" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T02:55:15.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4040" CreationDate="2016-05-13T06:10:57.157" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done something similar using baltic birch plywood for boxes that are up to about 8&quot; by 8&quot; by 8&quot;.  The first challenge is to make certain that the miters are cut exactly 45 degrees.  If you cannot achieve that, tight, closed joints are impossible (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3462/how-do-i-cut-a-45-degree-bevel-on-a-table-saw-with-consistent-dimensions/3476#3476&quot;&gt;How do I cut a 45 degree bevel on a table saw with consistent dimensions?&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When making a five surface box (no top):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On a table top carefully tape the bottom to each of the four sides with the miters facing up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply and spread glue on each of the mitered surfaces.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fold all four sides upward and tape together.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For clamping use large rubber bands.  The more rubber bands the higher the clamping pressure. Also tighter rubber bands means more pressure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are making larger boxes tape can still be used, but you might have to resort to band clamps.  If not band clamps then a dozen or more larger opening bar clamps.  Or a combination band clamps and bar clamps.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After applying the tape, it would be good idea to rehearse your clamping before applying the glue.  That way, when the glue is in place, your clamps will be set to the correct opening and there will be less chance for one clamp slipping while tightening another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T06:10:57.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4042" CreationDate="2016-05-13T07:58:57.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your risk is probably very small here, but I do want to suggest caution. Within reason there are no downsides to taking precautions to protect yourself from dust, and there &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be ill effects if you don't. No need to go overboard, but wearing a simple dust mask when sanding wouldn't do any harm. It's a first line of defence to keep from inhaling the dust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing about wood dusts generally is that they can be irritants, and at worst the irritant effect can build over time, and unfortunately you don't know ahead of time what species might have negative effects for you since it varies from person to person and how sensitive you might be..... nobody knows if they're allergic to something until they're allergic to it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Virtually everybody recommends using dust masks when sanding wood, but it seems that people generally refer to using power tools on large-ish things like pieces of furniture..?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably know this already from your reading but there is some good reasoning behind this. It's partially about the far greater amounts of dust generated by power sanding of course but powered sanding* generates quantities of the finest dusts and it is these that are the most damaging, e.g. because they can be inhaled deepest into the lungs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So my question is, should I still wear a dust mask - or are my lungs damaged more by walking by a busy street for five minutes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibly yes and possibly yes :-) It depends on the wood and how much of the dust you inhale, and on the street in question. But most of all it depends on &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt;, everyone's response to irritants is different. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Power-tool processes in general are capable of creating much finer dusts than hand-tool processes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-05-13T22:35:15.553" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T22:35:15.553" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4033" CreationDate="2016-05-13T08:29:30.300" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you have a bandsaw I think the simplest option for you here is a circle-cutting jig. You can throw together something small and basic for just this job, or with only a bit more effort build something more sophisticated which will deal with cutting circles of many different sized for many years to come. Either way you'll be cutting perfect 4&quot; disks in no time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many many variations on such a jig, here's one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fCgCh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fCgCh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Circle-cutting jig&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is from this article on Fine Woodworking: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/workshop/article/circle-cutting-bandsaw-jig.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Circle-Cutting Bandsaw Jig&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The text suggests &lt;em&gt;&quot;To avoid a center mark on the stock, attach a sacrificial surface to the underside of the workpiece with double-sided tape.&quot;&lt;/em&gt; In place of the double-sided you can also use the tape &amp;amp; superglue trick previously plugged by Charlie Kilian, or hot-melt glue if you prefer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you'd prefer to see a few more styles before going ahead with making it here are a few additional versions:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.familyhandyman.com/woodworking/woodworking-techniques-to-cut-circles-with-a-band-saw/view-all&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Techniques to Cut Circles With a Band Saw&lt;/a&gt; on The Family Handyman.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.startwoodworking.com/plans/how-cut-perfect-cirlces-bandsaw&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Cut Perfect Circles on a Bandsaw&lt;/a&gt; on Startwoodworking.com.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Super-simple-bandsaw-circle-jig/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Super simple bandsaw circle jig&lt;/a&gt; on Instructables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; most of these jigs can be fitted to a router table to allow the router (fitted with a straight-cutting bit) to do the same cutting task. This should result in a smoother finish requiring much less final sanding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T08:29:30.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4034" CreationDate="2016-05-13T09:11:46.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've scratched the finish and you need to polish/buff out the scratches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before we begin I'll be upfront with you here, because your table has a semi-gloss finish it may be very difficult indeed to buff out an area and have it exactly match the sheen of the surrounding varnish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buffing out varnish can be done using a number of polishing agents (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3658/how-do-i-de-nib-polyurethane-after-it-dries-but-still-maintain-its-finish/3660#3660&quot;&gt;previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;). But before you go and get a product to try to repair the finish you may actually get some traction using a couple of things you probably have in the house already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible quick-and-dirty fix&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Just by buffing with some cloth (e.g. denim) or even brown paper (!) could be enough here. For the denim or a paper bag the inside surface is usually the one to go with, slightly rougher in both cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no downside to trying either or both of these first since they won't further harm the varnish. If you don't get quite the result you're looking for you can move up to a commercial polishing agent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would try the brown paper first, working gently at first and then increasing pressure. If it's still a bit hazy move to the denim. Buff firmly with this, you can usually raise a pretty decent shine on varnish with denim and some elbow grease. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What to do if the area remains clearly visible&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is going to seem radical but you might consider using your 0000 steel wool and paste wax to work the entire table surface. Finish with long strokes following the grain, trying to go the full length of the table if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the surface is all scuffed to a consistent light haze you can then decide how to proceed. It is much easier to work all of a surface to a uniform sheen than to try to do one spot and get it to seamlessly match what's around it (unless the surface is a full-on gloss).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you might actually discover than once scuffed uniformly that you can live with the table as it stands — many pros actually get a satin surface by scuffing up gloss poly using steel wool so this is a widely accepted finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T09:11:46.917" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4037" CreationDate="2016-05-13T15:15:51.680" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're going to use 20 cables to support 200 pounds is only 10 lbs/cable. You could get away with &lt;em&gt;light&lt;/em&gt; fishing line for that. That may give you an option if you don't want the support structure to be visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would drill a hole through the top of the plywood at each suspension point and pass the cable through - that should be sufficient. Remembering how little weight each cable is going to support, the cable itself shouldn't do any damage to the plywood, even over a pretty significant amount of time hanging. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest leaving at least a 1/2&quot; (preferably 1&quot;) of wood to give it enough strength to not break out over time. Not knowing the depth of the pieces, it's hard to know what will look good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can drill a pretty small hole - something &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; big enough for the cable to pass through. You may want to ease the edges of the holes just a bit to allow the cable to curve through the hole instead of angling through it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I presume you have a solution in mind for some sort of eye-bolt in the ceiling to support each cable, and that your ceiling is sturdy enough to take 200 pounds hanging from it (and possibly swinging in a breeze or if &lt;s&gt;teenage boys&lt;/s&gt; young children decide to play pinata with it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T15:15:51.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="78" CreationDate="2016-05-13T18:57:21.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, aside from the addition of the cordless drill to turn the stock, how is this different from cutting cove with a tablesaw?  That's a time honored technique where the stock is pushed on a vector against the side of the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the devil is in the build.  The strength of the same jig design will always be dependent upon materials, fit, build and technique in use.  The user in this case is careful  to make several low degree passes before he gets to the product he desires - that also mirrors the technique for making cove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I might also quibble over the ergonomics: I think the critiques made here are spot on because I also would like to see features that move the woodworker's hands further away from the blade, but then I didn't see his hands anywhere near the blade, so maybe I'm wrong.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the jig is built well and used with the caution we should always employ, it seems very practicable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2248" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T18:57:21.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4040" CreationDate="2016-05-13T20:44:57.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Build the box first, then chamfer the edges. Much simpler than trying to do it the other way around. Assuming you really do mean chamfer rather than miter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T20:44:57.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4033" CreationDate="2016-05-13T23:01:20.653" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend one of three things which will depend upon the tools you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a 4&quot; hole saw with the pilot bit removed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have a drill press this option would work well. If not you need a powerful corded electric hand drill (with a stabilizing handle) and steady hands. Be warned that there can be a lot of torque if the bit binds up in any way so be careful not to break your wrists.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a lathe to turn a 4x4 as you described&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This method is safe, but time consuming and expensive if you have to buy a lathe.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a wooden rod with a 4 inch diameter.This could be something like a fence post or a tree. Make straight cuts along the rod at the height you want the coasters to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is a fast method and safe, but reduces the wood choices.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2249" LastEditorUserId="2249" LastEditDate="2019-02-13T04:18:10.517" LastActivityDate="2019-02-13T04:18:10.517" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4033" CreationDate="2016-05-14T15:00:42.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was hoping that you might have a disc sander, but you didn't mention one.  However, if you have a table saw you can mount a sanding disc on it and it will function as a small one (but big enough for your purpose.)  Once you have that, you'll also need a piece of plywood that measures 4 or 5 inches wide and a couple inches longer than the distance from your saw blade to the far edge of your miter slot, and a piece of scrap hardwood at least as wide as your miter slot, slightly shallower than the slot, and as long as the width of your plywood piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cut a rail to a little less than the width of your miter slot (so that it fits in the slot with about 1/8 inch of play left) from the hardwood scrap and mount it to the bottom of the plywood so that the plywood's edge, when the rail is placed in the slot with its edge pushed against the close side of the slot, comes close to the sanding disc's face (1/8 is probably close enough.)  Drive a finishing nail straight into the plywood so that while in the close position the nail center is 2&quot; from the sanding disc and approximately centered on the plywood jig.  Snip or grind off the nail so that it protrudes about half the thickness of your coasters from the surface.  This is your circle-sanding jig for the coasters.  Note that the pin is less than the thickness of the coaster, allowing you a &quot;show&quot; side with no center hole.  My illustration's not to scale, but I hope it shows the concept adequately, didn't want to spend all afternoon on such a simple device :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cPynq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cPynq.png&quot; alt=&quot;Top view of jig in-place on table saw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Now, mark the centers and 2&quot; diameter edges of the coasters on your workpiece(s) on the non-show side (bottom).  Make a hole in each rough coaster at its marked center ON THE MARKED (non-show) SIDE with the same size finishing nail as you used for your jig pin, deep enough to accommodate the protruding pin fully.  Cut close to the circular edge line but not quite up to it with your bandsaw.  Your cut should be at least 2&quot; from center at all points, yet not by more than the 1/8&quot; of play in the jig.  This should be easy enough to attain, and will allow you to place the roughed coaster on the jig when away from the disc, and when the jig is snugged up to the close edge of the slot the disc will make contact.  This is how you finish the coaster: you place the coaster on the jig when in the far position, then move it into the close position and gradually turn the coaster on its pinned center to work the edge into a perfect circle.  You can probably scoot your fence over to the right-edge of the jig to hold it in place in the close position while sanding.  Be sure to keep a hand on the coaster at all times when sanding, as you don't want it flung away.  Complete the finishing by breaking the sharp edges with sandpaper, roundover router bit, or whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1457" LastEditorDisplayName="user1457" LastEditDate="2016-05-14T15:08:16.727" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T15:08:16.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4037" CreationDate="2016-05-14T20:17:08.730" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider adding triangular corner gussets. According to the diagram you show, these could go on the inside of the corners, near the top. You could brad nail these to the piece, and then secure decent sized eye bolts or hooks through the gussets to take the suspension wires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; Here's &lt;a href=&quot;http://railwaybobsmodulebuildingtips.blogspot.com/2010/01/triangular-corner-gussets.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a site with some pointers on the technique.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just using 4 corners would put you at about 50 lbs per gusset, which should work fine with, say, #4 wire (about 1.5 mm thick, 85 lbs breaking strain). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want more attachments, you could either double up on the attachments to the corners - running two wires to each bolt, say - or add one or more blocks along the edges of the piece and mount more bolts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend just going after the corners. Also, if this is important to you, please do &lt;em&gt;test&lt;/em&gt; your rig on a dummy work. If nothing else, make a hollow frame and hang it with milk or soda bottles filled with water to get the weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1925" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T20:17:08.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4058" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-14T21:16:03.020" Score="4" ViewCount="3514" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to use a box like this:&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mC2wr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mC2wr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;As outdoor flower tub. I'll cover the inside with PE film, so no direct contact with soil expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long can I expect it to last until it rots and wouldn't keep it's form?&#xA;It's dirt cheap, so I'll be happy if it holds one warm season till winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1811" LastActivityDate="2024-03-02T06:30:53.163" Title="How long would it take to rot for untreated pine box" Tags="|pine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4058" CreationDate="2016-05-14T22:23:02.010" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Local conditions will strongly influence this so it's impossible to give a reliable answer, but certainly you should be able to get more than one season from something like this regardless of the weather conditions. Even completely unprotected and exposed to plenty of wet weather pine won't rot away in just a year or two, although the laths are very thin so you should probably expect some warping and cracks or splits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibly the weakest aspect of the construction of these is actually the staples, they may well fail first if they get rusty and the conditions are damp enough for the rust to progress. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T22:23:02.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4040" CreationDate="2016-05-15T11:05:33.797" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought it would be better to have pictures of the tape method for greater clarity as well as to future-proof things in case of changes to any of the external links provided in this and other Answers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First thing you do is lay down the sides of the box flat on the table and apply tape across each corner joint:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C3Lqw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C3Lqw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tape flats of box sides&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note tape is on the faces opposite the mitres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now flip over and you can apply glue to the joint surfaces. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ERd9W.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ERd9W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Box laid out for glueing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To improve bond strength you may want to &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/840/gluing-end-grain/851#851&quot;&gt;size the mitred surfaces with diluted glue&lt;/a&gt; 10-20 minutes ahead of time. If you plan to use any reinforcements to the mitred joints (e.g. keys, interior glue blocks, an epoxy fillet, brads/panel pins) this isn't really necessary but it is good general practice when glueing end grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now roll the box up like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bhBpe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bhBpe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Roll up the box&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not glueing on the base immediately you're done for now, put the box aside for a few hours for the glue to dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pictures taken from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2014/06/using-a-jig-to-make-mitered-corners/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this Craftsy article&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-05-15T11:05:33.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4061" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4065" CreationDate="2016-05-15T19:06:33.470" Score="6" ViewCount="367" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to get into woodworking and am looking at tools in order to make some small simple storage solutions. I love to sew, but a lot of my recent sewing ideas for around the house have included some kind of wooden frame. For example, I would love to be able to make something like this (found on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/Blue-Canyon-Folding-Laundry-Hamper/dp/B003NE50A0/ref=pd_sim_sbs_201_2?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;dpID=414HLOOXt0L&amp;amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR127%2C160_&amp;amp;refRID=A2AKPJYG0W81K3DA7VVT&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;amazon&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BtyWfm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BtyWfm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fabric hamper with wooden frame&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have done a bit of research but still am unsure exactly what tools I need to start. This is what I have so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill + electric screwdriver: Already have, my husband owns one. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Circular saw (What power? Would 1150W be enough? (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/Black-Decker-CD602-Circular-SAW/dp/B00074ETOM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;)) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A workmate bench for securing the wood (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/Black-Decker-Workmate-WM301/dp/B0001GS0FU/ref=pd_bxgy_60_2?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;refRID=1TT6B8KPFF7CPKKCMY1B&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;like this&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there are other things I need too. How do I figure out what other tools I will need for a particular project? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2251" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2016-05-17T03:37:50.893" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T16:34:25.890" Title="How do I know what tools I need?" Tags="|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4061" CreationDate="2016-05-16T04:07:11.330" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend buying the tools you need when you actually need them. That avoids spending money on one tool that would be better spent on another ... Or on material for more projects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A circular saw, for the kind of project you have shown us, is the wrong tool. Handsaws work just fine. Even if you need plywood cut to size, most lumber yards will do simple rectangular cuts free or for a small fee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2016-05-17T16:18:18.913" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T16:18:18.913" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4063" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4067" CreationDate="2016-05-16T13:09:54.487" Score="3" ViewCount="2399" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought &lt;a href=&quot;http://smile.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW715-12-Inch-Single-Bevel-Compound/dp/B000ASBCK4?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;redirect=true&amp;amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;DEWALT DW715 15-Amp 12-Inch Single-Bevel Compound Miter Saw&lt;/a&gt; and was hoping to hook it up to my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lowes.com/pd_549713-20097-5926211_1z11p8g__?productId=50159065&amp;amp;pl=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shop-Vac 12-Gallon 6-Peak HP Shop Vacuum&lt;/a&gt;. So far, I've been unsuccessful at finding a converter piece. The descriptions read 1.25&quot; for the hose out of the back of the saw and 1.5&quot; for the shop vac hose. Can anyone tell me where I might be able to find the piece I need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2252" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-01-12T14:04:55.937" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T14:04:55.937" Title="Hose converter between Dewalt Saw and Shop Vac" Tags="|power-tools|tools|cutting|miter-saw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4061" CreationDate="2016-05-16T14:35:30.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beyond the most basic level homeowner hand tools (hammer, screw drivers, pliers, handsaw, hand drill, etc.) I would recommend simple woodworking tools including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bench chisels.  A simple 4 piece set including 1/4&quot; through 1&quot;.  A wider 1 1/4&quot; to 1 1/2&quot; chisel is often useful as well. Eventually you will want a mallet to assist with chiseling especially in hardwoods.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rasp and files. A course wood rasp and an assortment of files are also good to have for work such as hand shaping wood, rounding edges or smoothing inside corners.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A sanding block and an assortment of various grade sandpapers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Handplane(s). If you are doing projects regularly a 9&quot; long (jack) plane and a shorter hand (block) plane are very useful. It will take a little practice to use them effectively, but it can really speed up production and improve the results once you get the hang of it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A tablesaw. I would recommend a decent portable contractor saw for both household projects and simpler woodworking projects.  As your projects become fancier you would want a heavier stationary tablesaw, but if it is not in the budget now, a good quality contractor saw will perform better than a circle saw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A Japanese style (cuts on the pull stroke) handsaw.  I have an inexpensive ($20 +/-) handsaws from big box retailers and can perform a lot of detailed cutting work with it. (I think it is easier to cut true to a line on the pull stroke)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An 18&quot; to 24&quot; ruler marked to 32nd's of an inch.  Precise measurement is often key to good project results.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A tri-square for marking perpendicular and 45 degree lines.  Also a couple draftsman triangles are helpful.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A solid workbench with a flush face top and legs on the workside with a woodworking side mount vise.  Holding the work firmly in place while working on it is very important to good results.  My first workbench was made from a solid core door top and well braced 2x4 framed legs. It still moved a little when planing, but got me through a lot of projects for many years.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are plenty of other specialized tools and your need for them will vary with the projects you execute, but this list should help cover the basics. Like with most tools, there are always very cheap versions available but I would avoid them since there fabrication, operational ease and tolerances make them unreliable.  I would also avoid very expensive ones.  While they may be much better in quality, their subtle capabilities will be of lesser value at the skill levels and project complexity you would  need in early year woodworking projects. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T14:35:30.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4061" CreationDate="2016-05-16T15:08:31.690" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to warn you advance, this sort of question is a bit of a rabbit hole. Any one list of tools might suit someone (and that could be you) but run it by 10 other craftsmen and they'll each try to sell you the benefits of their own list which their individual experiences argue are a better starter set.... and I can virtually guarantee that none of them will be exactly the same, which goes to show how individual tool choices can be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So take any one list as merely a suggestion, no matter who it's from and how much experience they have. It might suit the writer perfectly but an equally experienced other guy or gal might use quite a different set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does this list look okay? Anything else I need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK so good news first, three entries on your list are fairly universally useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly a drill of some kind is a must-have. A power drill and a driver are obviously useful and few modern lists would not include one or both. In case you're not aware a drill which can be run slowly enough (using light finger pressure on the trigger) can function as a driver, and this is what many use instead of having a separate powered screwdriver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Workmate is a good inclusion, many would agree that one or a &lt;em&gt;good&lt;/em&gt; equivalent (many poor folding benches out there, and Workmates are not nearly as good as they once were) is a sound first/early purchase for the new DIYer or aspiring woodworker. This sort of bench is not your only option, if you had to you could work on a kitchen table with just a couple of clamps, but they have a lot to recommend them and once you own one you'll continually find new ways to use it. As a book I read recently said in essence, &lt;em&gt;&quot;Get a Workmate early, you won't ever outgrow it.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the bad, a circular saw seems like a really odd inclusion in a list of first-buy tools. For me one of these would be so far down the list that it wouldn't even register on radar. Although in the hands of an experienced user they are very capable really they're mainly for dealing with big pieces, cutting them down to rough size (note that, not really intended for finished cuts) to begin work on a project. Many woodworkers use theirs for breaking down sheet good such as plywood or MDF &lt;em&gt;and nothing else&lt;/em&gt;. And many woodworkers don't own one and have no intention of ever buying one because everything a circular saw might be used for they'd prefer to do with another power saw or a handsaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A decent modern panel saw with hardened general-purpose or multi-function teeth (or arguable better, a traditional ripsaw and a cross-cut saw) along with a jigsaw would IMO be a much better use of your money. What you'd lose in terms of speed cutting down large sheet goods you'd more than gain in versatility. Plus all three together could well cost less than a decent circular saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be put off by the idea of cutting large stock to size with a handsaw, but it's not really as fatiguing as many people assume. As the common advice states, &quot;let the saw do the work&quot;. A sharp saw and good technique (not forcing the cut, standing clear of the saw so you're not in your own way, breathing easy as you work) make for a good sawing experience, and usually straighter cuts to boot. Even if you find you do need to take rests after every long cut that's OK, it's not a race :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other tools&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the most glaring omission from your list is that there are no measuring or marking tools, which any kit must have. Can't cut anything to size or length without 'em. At minimum I'd recommend the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tape measure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12&quot; steel rule (must be steel as wood, plastic or aluminium won't stand up to the use of a marking knife).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No. 2 pencil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of other tools that will be of direct use in making the item pictured in your Question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A block plane&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bevel gauge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A sanding block.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A pack of quality sandpaper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the block plane my main recommendation would be a low-angle one (blade held at 12-15°) with an adjustable mouth. Note that if you get a plane now or plan to get any chisels in the future you will need some stuff for sharpening from day one. Most tools are not sharp enough to use straight from the maker and will anyway require re-sharpening quite soon after you begin using them (within hours or days, depending on the wood you're using and the amount of use to which they're put). Read a bit more on sharpening &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/672/is-there-a-best-way-to-sharpen-an-edged-tool-like-a-chisel&quot;&gt;in this previous Q&amp;amp;A&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make your own sanding block very easily but there are numerous inexpensive ones available to buy that work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good sandpaper is quite a bit more expensive than cheap sandpaper but more than pays for itself. The difference in how long the paper lasts can be extraordinary. You might also like to look into Abranet which is an abrasive-impregnated mesh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Optional but desirable now, definitely useful in the future:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Starter set of 3-5 chisels (buy in Aldi or Harbor Freight, cheapest available but useable).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Marking gauge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boxcutter, X-acto knife or Stanley knife, to use as a marking knife. Any sharp small blade will do for this initially, so if you happen to have a pocketknife in the house already that'll do.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1134/what-are-the-differences-between-sanding-and-scraping/1159#1159&quot;&gt;card scraper&lt;/a&gt; or the standard set of three.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fine-toothed pull saw (makes extremely good cross-cuts that you may decide do not need to be sanded). Inexpensive ones of these (sub-$20) with hardened teeth can work very well and will give long service.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I posted a more complete list of tools in a previous Answer here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1102/what-is-the-best-way-to-get-started-with-limited-funds-and-space/1106#1106&quot;&gt;What is the best way to get started with limited funds and space?&lt;/a&gt; that you may find of further use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last but not least, a few things I recommend you build for yourself straight away to help with using hand tools:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1321/whats-a-bench-hook/1327#1327&quot;&gt;bench hook&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3361/one-day-projects-for-wood-working-fundamentals/3379#3379&quot;&gt;shooting board&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A strop. No leather needed here, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2085/how-can-i-tell-if-leather-is-vegetable-tanned/2087#2087&quot;&gt;just a scrap of denim will do&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T15:08:31.690" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4063" CreationDate="2016-05-16T15:12:59.583" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another solution is to put a hood or box with a fitting for your hose behind the saw.  If you really want to do a good job set up the table the saw sits upon as a down-draft style table as well, because not all the dust is thrown back, some is thrown downward off the edge of the blade closest to the operator.  To do both you'd probably need a legit dust collector machine, as your shop-vac likely won't support collection at both points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1457" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T15:12:59.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4063" CreationDate="2016-05-16T16:50:41.990" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are looking for a &lt;code&gt;Universal Hose Adapter&lt;/code&gt; that can be purchased at most hardware and tool suppliers (big box stores like Home Deport will also carry them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They look like this picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZiBKD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZiBKD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would purchase a 1.5&quot; adapter and then cut off the sections until you reach the smaller size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found that these do not fit tightly. You will need to use hose clamps to secure it, but try it first. Sometimes when the vac is running it's enough vacuum to hold them together firmly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1734" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T16:50:41.990" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4068" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4573" CreationDate="2016-05-16T20:10:56.600" Score="3" ViewCount="2719" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/rockler-s-complete-dovetail-jig&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rockler dovetail jig&lt;/a&gt; on some 3/4&quot; walnut. I have been successful one time with this jig but I always manage to have issues cutting the tails. I am using the bits that come with the jig and maybe that is the issue. I am sandwiching my project piece between two 1/4 pieces of plywood cut to the same dimensions as the project piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have already figured out how to cut the pins successfully. The method I use is cutting in small increments as well as climb cutting. I do not have to sandwich the project piece between two pieces of plywood for this cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions would be nice. Scrapping some good hardwood is getting expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally getting a chance to upload some pics here. I went back out and finally tried again. I was trying to use climb cuts to do this, and it started out alright, but by the time i got to the end it started tearing out again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Aousn-eG6OTTkdW31iHl1SRS-SOtoRolIm6FLgeuZPuDm9cRqR8YLX3pSGFss8e3KzOYmuDR1i4eUp1h7L8x8UEn69OkrJSxfiTKtJHBt4BCh1UtL8AaeBl1LXDN3ijeiasoy4h8Ct25MlPGtfdXP-FANbUOcHcGzlV0W3CfVFHhCsIuBuuM1gErzybP5tYAJrT_nI9mHhm_w8jSvTU30ZDl6W41uRkMa6gTASAVkH-cNQogYsjJPX2Gq09DRlluaduk-1HYmhPgTjVHaUM-LKdS_yfpL5q1LHBcIhrYWItLPp0z6uqEfEeISl0XnDLYNRPgQUgKifJ18feX7HQxeDRYVM5f4DxWkmXsUdoiV1mXp5Xu23VYw0ZrEX_m4SEBEq7eYQmwII4F1FFzkQ-TmJaqcxTXwqOom0eyCOQtkDgyp_eZW152a-7ijF_7JhqirTn52W3c_rYwZEVEKWa7pPTQBCEaqX3UwUX2lZpwkA6SQVXRqvXNPWa5C8xwE1aE5i5oHrd2c893Prmti4qGBHisd4SpgP6b24q_ThNa1b5h-_78ttHOXcp9qHmtzS2tXpEOXaElB4NlAbGoypNuL--hDj4vXtRs68OGa-62vtkGYWVy=w1306-h979-no&quot;/&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_w5FPu2DBQUbHyEXuv6fIsN-OVbI3zx471ena2hztfOrJ2fzmBGAMWC17iaFkdDO4XF5lg1WVQ-bePqHVqKFn02tyvvvdAuXgzArhyerXqf6Nte3xda4S9OlIPRLZ6CP3Dz0RYq-j0IUJgCjh5zMavGIEFkku_AdJDWL6aSg3tzRDBkXpfagTWHq5oMydSHFDwkuEjMzt_Qhcuraiazt80DwsL3RNTois9J6gxqyyY7IJG_JI5eX6RNEritdl5u7HzaYusE3bM9ZiBgYYW6x8paXRdcMKP27tFxG_wPQ_xHrk7wwV39ajSNrxJmw9FlhhS2gw9_y_Ws80_bIcqlsMPC7G8BOKMsl-uiHeMEEq7xI-HoVuIXXR89yCJKjVEf9rYpkqWKvRjGfOcEeTI54hhKwzsR8qoKz-EJh7Zxp_QF6FEDQkFLPeUNho-qlrWEJEQBCK_pRVtbGLho-zLtt-7OEs5JPpHqgrzl3eE3i2TZ-Nml4ZBZI78SDKwYAjR3_-4gyAIz6J83OQ2ionf7HCJAas_cT2zW03I53QLIbU0WiGazkCU99hSiK7M5j2DzX5MBilVUExMuNWnmNfls7IzFedG8ibBk=w1306-h979-no&quot;/&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tqP0B8WMDcnXdtQ-fEm3ucatDmllDnAofQtDh20WFqNA5CdKvVi4gMiVEOrHDY7G6jh1LC3Ay-KBni1dAz77CyQdXFpunIOm1oc_YrDfVLod4-DGucn2MgODxavzYiHxrwQhr0LsBbBDSPSa4mQQ7BspPTxZA6Ba8uwvHFAmOxBlMKXdaTCAR4F3NinffPx4nK5FrycJdJ3vFz2SsSdzxXjAVCdh7zagsEfwXbDf6qSKDtHATeOUqCE0sKxNB-xl6JHIGqDok9EyEavQX-MBX2dMXevXo_o0I5FgjM8b1S0ecaV4zScd4XOUGTwxjoI3nvUqh-owkLURWKS1gMZVGZk5qHtjt47ftpOU_CAlfkjae2HilPCCwYmfGTT3NEm_DWcW91kWIxjy-zYhPGD37YU9CgiC3c4GAFP3Qgjrp-jVhX8UecPKVzBA74NXfDz9g1aJJQIUEmMeahKn3i0TTarBJpM0bZfHFMDgtkGifWCTiNCsnXij46nVdc6hbfqDJOTsjw6Kvk9_eQIgX0kX58eBhtmfiuNlR9vyJXY7Bj3CIhMEwnAd-e3XpxbddaT8P6jlP6m_iHaV_g38dpQqYd0f9G6xTBU=w1306-h979-no&quot;/&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="966" LastEditorUserId="966" LastEditDate="2016-08-24T03:27:19.997" LastActivityDate="2023-03-12T14:56:02.760" Title="How do I stop tearout when using a dovetail jig" Tags="|router|jig|dovetail|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4040" CreationDate="2016-05-16T20:28:18.133" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had good success by using a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/deluxe-band-clamp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;band clamp&lt;/a&gt;. Glue your corners, assemble it, make sure everything is square, and then ratchet it down with the band clamp. This allows you to get some good pressure on the joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="966" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T20:28:18.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4070" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4071" CreationDate="2016-05-17T07:17:05.607" Score="5" ViewCount="622" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hear the term &quot;fixture&quot; and &quot;jig&quot; all the time, but I don't know the difference. Can anyone explain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2255" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T18:05:14.147" Title="Fixture and jig, what's the difference" Tags="|jig|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4070" CreationDate="2016-05-17T08:21:00.910" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The difference can be arbitrary. Or to put it another way the terms &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be considered interchangeable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't use the term fixture although I've seen it in print often enough. Jig is one I use a lot and I'd judge it to be much more commonly used by others too, although the type of thing they're used to describe could differ slightly from person to person.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A jig generally refers to a tool or setup, or &quot;appliance&quot; to use an older word, that holds a workpiece in a given way to allow you to work on it more easily. An ideal example is a sharpening jig/honing jig. But particularly with larger shop-built items (e.g. something to facilitate the cutting of tapers on the table saw, or to tilt the workpiece in a pillar drill to make angled holes) you could easily describe such a thing as a fixture. And for something like a bench hook I'm not sure that either word is really right since it can be used in multiple ways, some of which aren't about holding the work, i.e. it can be used just to provide a sacrificial surface to chop on. More on bench hooks &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1321/whats-a-bench-hook/1327#1327&quot;&gt;in this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To illustrate that the terms may be interchangeable, or nearly so, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/jigs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here's a page on Popular Woodworking&lt;/a&gt;. The URL says only jigs, but the page itself is titled &lt;strong&gt;Jigs &amp;amp; Fixtures&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here are two book titles showing the same thing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uf5c1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uf5c1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Jigs and fixtures books&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But to show how terms can vary, here's a classic book on the same subject from Robert Wearing which uses neither word in the title!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WW1K5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WW1K5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Making aids and devices cover&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just in general, terminology in woodworking is often less fixed than we'd like, with minor differences in usage from country to country, in different parts of the US and, as you might expect, with changes occurring over time. Sometimes it doesn't matter much and the context makes the meaning pretty clear, but for the newbie this sort of thing can make things very confusing at times. One of my pet peeves here is with a type of mitre reinforcement properly called a key (also referred to as &lt;em&gt;feathers&lt;/em&gt; traditionally) which is frequently now incorrectly referred to as a spline, which is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1129/strong-joints-to-use-when-making-custom-frames/1140#1140&quot;&gt;completely different type of reinforcement&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T08:21:00.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4061" CreationDate="2016-05-17T13:51:42.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something under-appreciated by newcomers is how creative a disciple woodworking is. There are almost always lots of ways to do the same thing. Some ways take longer than others, and some are more precise or are easier. How you will accomplish something often depends on what tools you have at your disposal, instead of vice-versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you were trying to reproduce the frame in your question exactly, you'd need some way of making mortises to slot the horizontal cross members in. That could be accomplished with a hand drill or a drill press by drilling out a series of holes the same width as your mortise, and then using a bench chisel to square up the mortise by cleaning out whatever the drill didn't take care of. Or you could use a plunge router to cut out the whole mortise at once (perhaps with the exception of the corners, depending on the shape of your tenon). Or you could eschew power tools entirely and opt to cut the mortise with the traditional mortising chisels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you don't need an exact copy and are willing to substitute dowels for the horizontal boards, you could simply drill a hole the same width as the dowels. If you want a very clean hole, forstner bits in a drill press would work great. Forstner bits cut very clean holes. The drill press would allow you to set a stop that limits the depth of cut, producing holes of a uniform depth. If you don't have a drill press but do have a plunge router, you could set it up to make a single plunge cut with a bit the same size as your dowel. Plunge routers also allow you to set the depth of the cut. But if all you have is a hand drill with regular bits, you could accomplish a good enough hole for the dowels if you take your time and are careful to keep the drill level and not drill all the way through the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, I'm agreeing with keshlam. Buy the tools as you need them. But also be aware there are usually lots of ways to do a thing, and a lot of times you pick the technique you'll use based on the tools you have on hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T13:51:42.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4070" CreationDate="2016-05-17T13:59:14.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The distinction seems arbitrary, but it lies in how the aid is used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carrlane's article &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.carrlane.com/catalog/index.cfm/29625071F0B221118070C1C513906103E0B05543B0B012009083C3B2853514359482013180B041D1E173C3B2853524B5A5B&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Introduction to Workholding&lt;/a&gt;&quot; explains:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Often the terms &quot;jig&quot; and &quot;fixture&quot; are confused or used&#xA;  interchangeably; however, there are clear distinctions between these&#xA;  two tools. Although many people have their own definitions for a jig&#xA;  or fixture, there is one universal distinction between the two. Both&#xA;  jigs and fixtures hold, support, and locate the workpiece. A jig,&#xA;  however, guides the cutting tool. A fixture references the cutting&#xA;  tool. The differentiation between these types of workholders is in&#xA;  their relation to the cutting tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, many people are not clear on the distinction and commonly call everything a jig. While technically incorrect, most people will immediately understand what you're talking about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T13:59:14.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4075" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-17T16:14:30.083" Score="1" ViewCount="566" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just had installed a new Douglas Fir tongue and groove porch floor - the porch is covered but will still get some rain. The flooring already has two coats of Woodlife Classic and I will be priming and painting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon closer inspection I found seeping sap. I've read other posts on this topic here and elsewhere, but still have questions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I have done is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dug out the sap as best as I can - there are 13 spots - they are differing sizes - from 2&quot; - 5&quot; long and about 1/4&quot; - 3/8&quot; deep. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 out of the 13 have a diagonal vein of sap that runs deep&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm afraid to go any deeper - the boards are 5/8&quot; thick and I don't want to go all the way through. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I have read is that I should prime with BIN and then fill with a wood epoxy, however I have found two different opinions on which should go first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my questions are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which goes first, the epoxy or BIN? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I leave the deeper veins as they are and just clean them out as best as I can? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I dug out the sappy parts, the wood is pretty rough - will the epoxy better adhere to a rough surface or should I sand them smooth? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I know sanding will be required once all is said and done - should I retouch the Woodlife? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2257" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2016-05-19T19:41:37.570" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T19:41:37.570" Title="How do I fix a new douglas fir tongue and groove exterior floor that is oozing sap?" Tags="|finishing|wood|paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4061" CreationDate="2016-05-17T16:34:25.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think there's much I can add to the other very good answers, but I can perhaps reinforce a couple of things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) You can do a lot with basic hand tools. Take any online tutorials/blogs/instructional videos with a grain of salt. Some of them would have you believe that you need every power tool under the sun for every simple task. I recently read some instructions on how to make a slotted storage system - basically slats of wood fixed to battens and attached to the wall, with narrow gaps between each slat that you can hook storage bins or custom-made tool racks into. It's a simple project - basically just screw or nail the slats onto the battens and you're done. The instructions started with a list of tools required - a planer/thicknesser, table saw to rip the slats to the right width, eletric mitre saw to cut them to length, and the list went on. Don't get me wrong, I'd love to have all those tools, but I don't have the space or the budget, and even if I did, I could make the same thing just as quickly by buying wood that's already planed and cross-cutting with a hand-saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) As others have said, buy things as you need them for each project and as your skill level develops. My first project was to build a wardrobe to fit into an oddly shaped room. I designed a simple open frame held together with mortise and tenon joints, and plywood shelves. I started with a cheap hand saw to cut the boards, and some chisels that I already had, and not much more. Later, when adding the shelves, I bought a block plane to trim them for an exact fit. After learning to use the plane, I now know that If I'd had it earlier, I could have used it to smooth the ends of some of the boards and save myself some time sanding, but at the start of the project I wouldn't have had the skill to do that anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lesson is, start with basic tools and as you develop your skills and find things that you can't do with the tools you have, you will find out which other tools you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(3) As others have said, there are always more than one way to do anything with woodwork. For example, to curve the edges of the boards in your picture, you could use a coping saw to cut the curve. Or, you could make rough straight cuts with a tenon saw (for example) and then round it over with a rasp or a block plane, or sandpaper and patience. Or you could use a belt sander. You could probably do it with a router if you really wanted to. This does make it difficult for a beginner to pick the right tool. I suggest looking through some books on woodworking - maybe see what your local library has. That way, you can get an idea of what each tool is capable of before deciding what to buy, and you may even find out about some tools that you didn't know existed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2258" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T16:34:25.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4070" CreationDate="2016-05-17T16:52:46.317" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A fixture holds the piece for machining using work reference points for location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A jig guides the tool for machining features in their correct location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of a fixture would be if you made a table saw sled made to cut a 23 degree cut 5&quot; from the end of a board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A jig is something you use to guide a tool for an operation.  i.e. a pocket hole jig or a router dovetail jig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastEditorUserId="286" LastEditDate="2016-05-17T18:05:14.147" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T18:05:14.147" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4078" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-17T18:07:17.247" Score="4" ViewCount="4905" Body="&lt;p&gt;Making my first longboard, and I'd like to put some art on top of it. On most skateboards (like Carver for example - see pic 1) grip on the top side of the deck is achieved by using a grip tape. On other boards though (like Globe for example - see pics 2, 3) some other technique is used. It looks like it's grains of sand + glue or lacquer, which is great because you can apply colorful art on top of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any one has an idea how to create such grip on the longboard's deck? How to create grains? What type[s] of glue to use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Carver with grip tape (not what I need)&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5KTEH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5KTEH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Carver, using grip take (pic 1)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Globe, colored, with grip that is sort of see-through (what I want to achieve)&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MCF3V.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MCF3V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Globe, using mysterious grip technique&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Globe, closer look&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h7cmM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h7cmM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Globe, closer look&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2263" OwnerDisplayName="MeLight" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T22:39:44.533" Title="Alternatives to grip tape on a longboard" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4079" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4313" CreationDate="2016-05-18T01:47:56.563" Score="4" ViewCount="376" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I am drilling in wood my drill bit tends to grab the wood and launch forward. Never had this happen before. I go in a back and forth motion and am not forcing or nothing. Why is it doing this and how can I prevent it? It creates many chips in the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T07:31:16.143" Title="My drill bit is randomly forcing itself forward" Tags="|drill-bits|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4080" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-18T01:52:13.633" Score="2" ViewCount="1436" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found some triple flute drill bits and am wondering if they are any better than the double flute. I would think they make cleaner cuts but am sure there is some bad things that go along with it. Anything about this is helpful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T05:22:46.847" Title="Triple flute drill bits Vs. 2 flute drill bits" Tags="|drill-bits|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4078" CreationDate="2016-05-18T05:18:23.560" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try a good paint shop, there are numerous non-slip aggregate additives for most finishes. If you intend to use lacquer or varnish on the deck they shouls have something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CbCzX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CbCzX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2261" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T05:18:23.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4080" CreationDate="2016-05-18T05:22:46.847" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;They cut faster and cleaner. Negatives that I know of is cost (they are more expensive) and heat. They will heat up quicker because there is less steel there. Too much heat and your bit is dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2261" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T05:22:46.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4083" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4085" CreationDate="2016-05-18T09:31:51.267" Score="6" ViewCount="1705" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on building my own router table, including a router lift, pivot functionality, fence, and whatnot. so far i have my materials, a pretty solid plan how to do it and the proper amount of motivation to execute the project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As there are routers in all shapes, sizes, power and price ranges available i'm at a loss what to buy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The consens among all the different opinions i read so far is that &quot;SIZE DOES MATTER&quot;! On one side the actual size of the thing where a smaller/lighter motor is preferable, on the other side the brute force the router can produce should by rather high (ideally 1 kW upwards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The routers that would fit my needs/budget best i think are the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Makita RT0700C:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(+) round enclosure and easy to mount (steadily) to a brick of wood&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(+) static I/O switch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(+) variable speed control&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(+/-) heavy(ish) (3.3 kg or 7,3 lbs)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(-) 710 Watt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(-) bulky head&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(-) ~140 € (in Austria)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Kress 06082206 1050 FME-1:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(+) POWER (1050 Watt)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(+) static I/O switch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(+) variable speed control&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(+) lightweight (1.7 kg or 3.7 lbs)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(+) quite small, round enclosure which makes it easy to mount in a lift&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(-) ~200 € (in Austria)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While i can bring myself around to using one of these (and probably will), on my search for THE perfect router, i stumbled across &lt;strong&gt;CNC motors&lt;/strong&gt;. They are perfectly round metal cylinders with a very low profile (they average at around 5 cm in diameter), weigh next to nothing and are relatively cheap (compared to routers). My favorite at the moment is something i found on eBay for ~100€ with 1.5 kW.&#xA;As there are plenty of videos, tutorials, plans, opinions and whatnot out there on the subject i feel like i'm missing some major point here. Why isn't anyone using CNC motors for their homemade router tables? Especially since all those start with some kind of &quot;As i'm on a budget, i'm using...&quot; in the end it's some 200€ router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance, so long...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2262" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T02:38:08.567" Title="What router to use for a homemade routertable?" Tags="|router|router-table|cnc|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4083" CreationDate="2016-05-18T12:24:15.897" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a router table, light weight is not an advantage; more power is. (When handheld, the equation may or may not go the other way depending on what you are doing. Which is the reason, other than price, that a range of offerings exists.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CNC routing motors tend to be equivalent to trim routers, or even lower power, since they aren't asked to cut quickly or drive large bits. Trim routers have become more powerful over the years, and there are in fact mini router tables for them, but if the table is your focus they're a much more limited solution. They also may force you to design your own mounting and height adjustment mechanisms (or to buy and adapt a router lift). Valid observation, but probably not what you are looking for given what little you have told us.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2016-05-20T02:38:08.567" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T02:38:08.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4083" CreationDate="2016-05-18T13:01:57.650" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you may be misunderstanding what a CNC motor is. The CNC motors are stepper motors, and they can be precisely directed to move the X, Y, and Z axes of a CNC machine They need the appropriate signal to tell them to spin, and by what amount. A CNC router still has a regular router attached to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This picture may be helpful (image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.probotix.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;probotix.com&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LeBeZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LeBeZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;CNC Router from probotix.com&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The green motors in the picture are the CNC stepper motors. They drive the positioning of each axis. The router actually doing the work is the yellow thing in the middle; it appears to be a standard Dewalt 618.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if you did try to use a motor that isn't already built to be a router, you'd still be missing a lot of important parts, perhaps the biggest of which is the chuck. How would you attach the bits to the motor? Whatever solution you come up with is likely to be an additional expense, and given the speed routers run at, do you trust it not to come apart on you while your bit is in the work piece? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another consideration is, how are you going to move it up and down in the router table? The Dewalt in the picture has a spiral channel running the length of the motor casing that allows you to twist it to position it higher or lower (I'm simplifying a bit here, but that's the gist of it). Other routers have similar mechanisms. You could probably use a router lift, but once you're buying or building that, you've lost a lot of the cost savings you're going for and might as well have just bought a normal router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T13:01:57.650" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4083" CreationDate="2016-05-18T13:26:46.710" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are not getting a lift, then it is real nice to have a router that allows you to adjust the height from above the table. I recall several reviews saying that the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.infinitytools.com/Triton-3-1_4-HP-Dual-Mode-Precision-Plunge-Router/productinfo/116-270/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Triton TRA001&lt;/a&gt; was a great router for router tables.  Personally I use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.deltaportercable.com/Products/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=11099&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Porter-Cable 7518&lt;/a&gt; mounted in a JessEm lift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few years ago I was at Woodworkers in America.  One of the instructors there just used a standard fixed-based router under a piece of MDF for his router table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T13:26:46.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4075" CreationDate="2016-05-18T15:27:33.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So, my questions are: 1) which goes first, the epoxy or BIN? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The BIN (I mean shellac generically here, I don't want to specifically recommend BIN as there are better ways to get your shellac*). The shellac is acting as a sealer/primer in this case, with the epoxy acting merely as filler. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However in theory you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; seal/prime with epoxy, because like shellac it is a very good sealer (arguably superior to shellac in fact, assuming the correct application).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2) Can I leave the deeper veins as they are and just clean them out as best as I can?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can't say, sorry. Sealed well it may not matter that some is left, but I believe good practice is that you should dig out all of it, or remove the offending pieces and replace them, unless this is impractical for one or more reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;3) When I dug out the sappy parts, the wood is pretty rough - will the epoxy better adhere to a rough surface or should I sand the gouges smooth? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rough is fine, actually preferable. Although in this context I'm not sure if it would make enough difference for it to matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;4) I know sanding will be required once all is said and done - should I retouch the Woodlife?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it will be called for, yes. You can in theory smooth off epoxy fills and leave them dead-flush, using for example a plastic squeegee or palette knife, but in practice I find you really have to leave epoxy slightly proud of the surface and then make it flush after it has set. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note 1:&lt;/strong&gt; epoxy goes 'hard' long before it has fully cured**, at which point it has become as hard as it can get. Usually it's best to work it when it is harder rather than softer, but if you work carefully you can pare away the bulk of the excess with a very sharp chisel when it is only just hardened (e.g. after approximately 1 hour with 5-minute epoxy). However, my usual method for flushing epoxy fills is to wait for a full cure and then plane down with a hand plane set for a very light cut, prior to sanding to make it completely flush and smooth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note 2:&lt;/strong&gt; you may want to do a few comparative tests but you should find that filling the epoxy with some sanding dust (or purchased wood flour) will make it easier to work, which simultaneously lowering costs slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Shellac is much better bought as dry flakes or buttons and made up fresh in small batches than bought readymade in a tin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**Even with fast-setting epoxies it's usually good to wait at least overnight prior to sanding, but waiting 24 hours or longer won't hurt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T15:27:33.370" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4088" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-18T16:09:09.270" Score="3" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if this falls within the scope of this site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to remove a stain made from the dye of a couch's fabric from a wood floor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have looked online and found different methods, but I am not sure which is the best way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rQe8v.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rQe8v.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2265" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2016-05-18T19:10:23.690" LastActivityDate="2016-06-18T12:34:32.957" Title="removing dye from wood floor" Tags="|wood|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4078" CreationDate="2016-05-18T22:55:13.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't find a more suitable method, you can purchase clear grip tape. Of course it's a little opaque due to the grit it contains, but I had a deck covered in clear tape as a youngster with stickers underneath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2266" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T22:55:13.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4090" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-19T01:12:29.187" Score="2" ViewCount="2327" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a nice Wooster Pro nylon brush to use for applying water-based polyurethane to some projects. After the last application, I forgot to wash the brush and it has since dried and hardened. I can peel the bristles apart but they're still very stiff and they remain stuck together in small clumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the brush destined for the trashcan, or is there a way that that I remove the dried polyurethane from the bristles to salvage it? It's a $15 brush, so it's not really worth anything beyond an easy fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1853" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T04:54:25.373" Title="Can I salvage a paint brush with dried polyurethane on the bristles?" Tags="|finishing|paint|polyurethane|water-protection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-05-19T10:40:50.230" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4091" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4095" CreationDate="2016-05-19T01:57:46.570" Score="5" ViewCount="222" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm willing to pay a premium for low-VOC materials to improve indoor air quality. Recently, I've been using &lt;a href=&quot;http://purebondplywood.com/resources/home-depot/overview/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;PureBond plywood&lt;/a&gt;, which uses a soy-based adhesive instead of urea formaldehyde.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This surely has some air quality benefits when cutting and sanding the wood, but I typically finish my projects with at least 3-4 coats of a low-VOC water-based polyurethane. Since I'm doing that, does it even matter (in terms of outgassing and indoor air quality) what comprises the plywood? Can hazardous gasses escape the polyurethane layer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1853" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T09:33:06.780" Title="Is low-formaldehyde plywood important if the wood will be finished with polyurethane?" Tags="|finishing|plywood|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4088" CreationDate="2016-05-19T02:06:24.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It does not make a lot of sense that the dye in the couch came off, although it is possible that some dye was released during a steam cleaning.  But if that is the case, the discoloration would extend around the couch and not just be at the front edge of the seat. Before anything else try using stronger detergents on the flooring with some steel wool abrasive to insure that the discoloration is not above the floor varnish.  Of that does not work you will have to sand down the surface finish.  It may be possible to only remove the top of the finish surface and then apply a fresh coat of varnish (or possibly polyurethane) in that area only, but it will require buffing to match up the area to the appearance of the adjacent areas.  If it is still visible, it may be necessary to recoat the entire floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2016-05-19T12:33:05.457" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T12:33:05.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4090" CreationDate="2016-05-19T04:54:25.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will most likely never be like new again but you could soak it in a jar of paint thinner over night. Then wash it out with dish soap and warm water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2267" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T04:54:25.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4091" CreationDate="2016-05-19T09:33:06.780" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is low-formaldehyde plywood important if the wood will be finished with polyurethane?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, not in terms of the finishing at least. It's important if you want to make stuff that has low VOC emissions of course but doesn't appear to make any difference to how a finish dries, cures or maintains over time which is not surprising given the very slow outgassing of the formaldehyde.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI, &quot;polyurethane&quot; isn't enough of a description if you don't go on to clarify the exact type of product you used, as you did in the body of the Question. This is because there are multiples types of polyurethane finish and they are very different indeed. Waterbased polys are actually nothing like 'real' polyurethane, oil-based polyurethane varnish. They are acrylic-suspension finishes with a little added polyurethane, and are not varnish in the true sense of the word despite being called that by many manufacturers. Basically the same product might be called &quot;acrylic lacquer&quot; by another maker and they name would be just as accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can hazardous gasses escape the polyurethane layer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short yes. Coat thickness is a factor but essentially water vapour can pass through almost any finish so they offer no real barrier to gases. Finishes slow the rate of exchange but don't stop it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as mentioned above waterbased poly is mainly acrylic and this type of acrylic finish can be surprisingly porous in nature precisely because it starts off as a suspension in its liquid form (tiny droplets surrounded by water).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T09:33:06.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4096" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4104" CreationDate="2016-05-19T11:13:51.103" Score="6" ViewCount="1232" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm off to build my own workshop for mostly woodworking projects in the (huge) basement garage of a very old house. The garage is about 5 by 30 meters(16 by 100 ft) and has a varying height of 3 to 6 meters (10 to 20 ft). It has just a huge garage door (approx 4 by 4 meters (13ft)) and no windows. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't gotten around to test all the corners for their average humidity, but I fear that it may vary quite drastically from season to season (Central Europe) and even be different in various locations inside the place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I'd be aiming for &lt;strong&gt;somewhere around 40%&lt;/strong&gt;?!? in average humidity and hope that to the rear of the room (which is basically a dead end tunnel) the humidity will drop and I can store and dry my lumber there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a &quot;rule of thumb&quot; for the ideal workshop humidity level? Are there some tricks I can use to bring it down to some degree without using &quot;expensive to buy and run&quot; machines?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In winter I will probably heat the place up with a gas powered heater as it's fast and relatively cheap but I fear that this will cause fast and rapid changes in humidity -&gt; which I think is quite bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2262" LastEditorUserId="2262" LastEditDate="2016-05-20T08:56:50.780" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T10:01:42.213" Title="What is the proper humidity for a shop and how should I achieve it?" Tags="|wood-movement|wood-drying|moisture|shop|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4078" CreationDate="2016-05-19T18:57:40.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try using spray adhesive (such as the one below) along with sand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a similar application for this where I sprayed the adhesive on to a board and then covered the area with an abundance of sand. After the glue dried the excess sand simply fell off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this idea could work for what you are trying to do if you were to use a translucent fine sand.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/171591P/3mtm-super-77-aerosol-can.jpg?boundedSize=310&quot; alt=&quot;Adhesive Picture&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2271" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:50.547" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T22:39:44.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4099" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-19T20:02:07.197" Score="3" ViewCount="1963" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I cut veneered wood with a hand saw without splitting the veneer?&#xA;I'm ending up with awful frayed and rouged edges after cutting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2130" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-05-20T20:12:49.783" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T20:12:49.783" Title="How can I cut veneer with a hand saw and not chip it?" Tags="|cutting|hand-saw|veneer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4099" CreationDate="2016-05-19T22:25:27.060" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a handsaw, one trick is to score through the veneer with a straightedge and sharp knife. Then use a finely-toothed blade, and let the blade do the work rather than trying to force it into the wood --always good practice, but especially in this situation. You may want to experiment with cutting angles, to cut less perpendicularly to the veneer surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With  power tools, using a sharp, finely-toothed blade and a zero-clearance guide or faceplate can make a huge difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, be aware of whether the blade you are using cuts on the push or pull. To minimize damage you want to be pushing the veneer against the substrate rather than pulling away from it...which may affect which side you cut from (unless both sides need to be good, in which case cutting in from both sides and then completing the cut in the middle might help or you might want the equivalent of the zero-clearance solution by sandwiching the cut line between two other pieces.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2016-05-19T23:57:58.893" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T23:57:58.893" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3945" CreationDate="2016-05-20T00:35:11.400" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As it was said in the comments you are going to need a HSS (High Speed Steel) drill bit which just means that the drill bit is extremely hard and resistant to heat. There are also titanium HSS bits which are just covered with a titanium oxide but then you wouldn't be able to sharpen them if you ever needed to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like for what you are doing the HSS bits would be fine for drilling through the metal and wood but depending on the materials you may want to look at a step bit such as this but I doubt that would be necessary.&lt;br&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.kleintools.com/sites/all/product_assets/catalog_imagery/klein/59009t.jpg&quot; width=&quot;250&quot; height=&quot;250&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;Edit:&lt;/b&gt; To add on to what I said before, step bits are a good choice of drilling if you are only drilling sheet metal or metal that is relatively thin (1/8&quot; -1/4&quot;). Also when drilling metal at anytime to counter the extreme heat generated you are going to want to use a lubricant such as motor oil or just look up &quot;metal drilling lubricants&quot; into google and you will find many available for purchase that are more specific to metal drilling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2271" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:50.560" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T18:10:15.897" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4102" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-20T03:30:15.480" Score="7" ViewCount="5327" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a raised garden bed using wood logs that have 'UFP Treated' tags at the end. I am using my raised bed for growing vegetables. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What does 'UFP Treated' mean? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are these board safe to continue to use it for my vegetable garden bed?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2274" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2016-05-20T19:29:59.387" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T19:29:59.387" Title="UFP treated woods for raised garden bed" Tags="|safety|pressure-treated|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4102" CreationDate="2016-05-20T08:49:51.580" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;UFP Treated means that the wood is pressure treated with &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood_preservation#Chromated_copper_arsenate_.28CCA.29&quot;&gt;chromated copper arsenate (CCA)&lt;/a&gt; to make it less susceptible to rot. This technique comes from building boats, piers, carports, ... anything that is exposed to the elements and has been around for quite some time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opinions as to the CCA being poisonous in planting application such as yours vary greatly and there are researches showing (presumably legitimate) data in any direction. Articles that i read recently are &lt;a href=&quot;http://extension.psu.edu/plants/crops/esi/treated-lumber&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gardeningblog.net/2009/04/12/using-pressure-treated-lumber-in-raised-garden-beds/&quot;&gt;that&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finegardening.com/does-pressure-treated-wood-belong-your-garden&quot;&gt;that&lt;/a&gt;. I based my opinion mostly on them which lead me to build a planter for my (very nice and likable) grandmother using treated wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that you could do is treat the &quot;treated wood&quot; further with some food safe, oil based finish as this will seal the arsenic to some degree. You'd probably touch that finish up every couple years, the frequency being dependent on how much elemental exposure your planter gets. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/comments/1vhic3/question_looking_for_a_wood_sealer_that_is/&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a quite interesting thread to really safe finishes :).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2262" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T08:49:51.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4096" CreationDate="2016-05-20T10:01:42.213" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a lot written about the ideal conditions for the workshop but you have to be careful about the source since the figures quoted aren't as universal as sometimes implied or stated, some sources not taking into account very different conditions to theirs (much drier or much damper). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example it's much damper in the British Isles generally than in most parts of the US, so the figures we often see quoted for wood moisture content (MC) on American sites and in the forums just aren't realistic for Britain or Ireland and it would be a mistake to match them even if this was practical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a &quot;rule of thumb&quot; for the ideal workshop humidity level? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. The bottom line is this, proper humidity for a workshop depends on where you are. It should match, or be close to, the typical humidity of domestic interiors where you live if you're making pieces for the home. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't matter then if the MC is even double (yes, &lt;em&gt;double&lt;/em&gt;, or even higher) that quoted as normal or average in North America, it's correct for where the finished items will live.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T10:01:42.213" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4102" CreationDate="2016-05-20T15:54:23.983" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the United States, since 2003, the availability of CCA pressure treated wood has been scant.  EPA does not allow its use in residential applications, so it will be hard to find at your local lumber retailer, be it big box or small yard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, pressure treated products are readily available but with less threatening EPA approved chemicals.  The &quot;UFP Treated&quot; tag should have specific information on its reverse side.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the tag doesn't say CCA or Chromatic Copper Arsenate, you are good to go with the bed that you have made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T15:54:23.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4102" CreationDate="2016-05-20T19:07:23.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanted to start by quoting &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ufpi.com/~/media/Files/Literature/Product%20Literature/UFPTreatedMSDS.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;an MSDS from a supplier of UFP treated wood&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ecotoxicity:&lt;/strong&gt; The product is not expected to leach harmful amounts of preservative into the environment; however, some&#xA;  preservative may migrate into soil and water. The wood preservatives in this product contain insecticides and fungicides, which&#xA;  when released into the environment at high enough concentrations, are expected to adversely affect or destroy contaminated&#xA;  plants. They may be harmful or fatal to wildlife. Toxicological and ecotoxicity testing have not been performed on this product.&#xA;  Environmental fate information is not available. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the risk that you will read in that document pertains to the treated dust and the wood dust in itself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The snippet above basically admits that there in nothing &lt;em&gt;conclusive&lt;/em&gt;. Other answers refer to this but there is still some trepidation and potentially information to back that up from other sources. The MSDS does talk about the presence of high concentrations and that it &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; cause issues with plants. If you weren't going to be eating any of the plants in this bed the I would say go for it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the risk is arguably low there is still a potential risk compared to not using treated wood in a home garden. If you are going to be eating the plants and vegetables from this bed I would err on the side of caution and consider rot resistant woods like cedar instead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T19:07:23.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4107" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-21T15:29:21.923" Score="4" ViewCount="2287" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a serving tray out of five pieces of pine. Will wood glue be enough to hold the tray together? If not, what should I do instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="ben cordero" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2016-05-22T00:35:43.250" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T00:51:24.783" Title="Is wood glue enough to hold a pine serving tray together?" Tags="|glue|pine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4107" CreationDate="2016-05-21T15:38:11.363" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wood glue will do just fine. If the  surfaces are properly prepared, a glue joint can be stronger than the wood. Depending on what you want to use the tray for, you might want to consider one of the more water-resistant formulations, but even basic wood glue should do the job, since you don't plan to soak this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" OwnerDisplayName="keshlam" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2016-05-21T21:28:33.977" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T21:28:33.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4109" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4118" CreationDate="2016-05-21T22:00:21.513" Score="5" ViewCount="2064" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't really want a table saw because I think I could use the bandsaw/band saw for more things like resawing and curves.  Is it feasible to use a bandsaw for a cutting board (and kind, on grain, strips, or just a cutout single piece of Maple)?  Looking at the big box kind or a used 9&quot; or 10&quot; band-saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2278" LastActivityDate="2017-08-16T10:06:55.653" Title="Can I use a band saw to make a cutting board?" Tags="|band-saw|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4107" CreationDate="2016-05-22T00:51:24.783" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In short: Yes.&lt;/strong&gt; But...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While glue alone is a perfectly good joint if done properly (you will most likely rather totally anihilate the pine wood than break the glue!) &lt;em&gt;working with&lt;/em&gt; &quot;just glue&quot; can be a quite unrewarding experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For one thing, glue needs to be clamped, and the wood can get quite slippery with glue on it. The idea of clamping 5 straight, gluey boards together brings up memories of a lunch scene in a Julia Roberts movie: Slippery little bastards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can clamp boards on top of and below the to-be-glued boards, but then you should use plastic wrap or something similar as separator. Because otherwise, surprise, with those little drops creeping out of the joint slits everywhere, you will &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; glue the guides onto the work piece. Very annoying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have any chance of getting a few straight, precise holes drilled, please consider two dowels in every joint. These will not only increase stability, but they also make clamping a lot more of a fun, rewarding experience. With two dowels in place, no matter how slippery it gets, the board has nowhere to go.&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, note that there are many kinds of wood glues. The kind most people think of when saying &quot;wood glue&quot; is not water resistant in any way, and the type commonly sold as &quot;waterproof&quot; in DIY markets is nowhere near waterproof either, but merely resists short, occasional exposure.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;On a serving board, exposure may be quite a bit more than &quot;occasional&quot;, not only because of spilling, but also because of cleaning, and keeping it in the kitchen where humidity is often above average.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It probably makes sense to invest in a &lt;em&gt;real&lt;/em&gt; waterproof glue (like PU).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt; Well, that's not 100% true, the whole piece can, and often will, still warp when you clamp it. But at least the individual boards won't slide off in every direction, which is a huge annoyance. Either balancing force with clamps on either side, or restraining the piece with a (plastic covered) board will do the trick for the warping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="135" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T00:51:24.783" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4109" CreationDate="2016-05-22T03:10:09.020" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Bandsaw will certainly cut the wood, but the edges will require additional work since the cut will have more surface striations and the overall surface would be less flat where the table saw cut will be much smoother and flatter. I recommend  using a hand plane or planner to prepare the surfaces for gluing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T03:10:09.020" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4109" CreationDate="2016-05-22T04:16:32.920" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bandsaw would be more that adequate for this job. In fact it would almost be required it you intended to make a cutting board that was shaped different than a standard rectangle. However it likely won't be the only tool you use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lR9_CjQYZj4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;video by Scott Lewis&lt;/a&gt; you can see him cutting the stock that is to be laminated with the bandsaw (This happens around 39 seconds into the video). The video appears to show all tools that were used. He is pretty good about using cabinet scapers, custom sanding blocks and regular sandpaper. You &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; conclude that he only used a jointer and a bandsaw for the main cutting board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lamination can be a rather involved subject but lamination succeeds best when the faces being glued are perfectly mated to each other i.e smooth. You need to get a high tooth count blade in order to get near finish ready. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would still take a pass with a scraper just in case. When cutting wood with tools like table saws and band saws etc. you should never expect to get a finish ready cut. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you actually watched the video you will really see the bandsaw in action is it is used to create intricate details into the board. So not only is the bandsaw a valid tool for this job it can do some amazing things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-05-22T12:00:21.673" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T12:00:21.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4113" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4115" CreationDate="2016-05-22T10:26:21.347" Score="-1" ViewCount="4851" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a small bedroom where I want to build something similar to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.duitang.com/blog/?id=51814489&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this project&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VtXjV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VtXjV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Proposed project&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a start point I want to take &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/40249876/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this bed&lt;/a&gt; and build around it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LdOQF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LdOQF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ikea Malm bed&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to found some tutorials (or just articles) which describe similar projects to avoid common pitfalls, but found nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I'm looking for any links to tutorials, articles which describe similar ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any piece of advice also appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2281" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-05-22T12:04:39.877" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T12:30:37.130" Title="Raised platform around bed with built-in storage" Tags="|furniture|storage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-05-23T16:09:03.473" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4109" CreationDate="2016-05-22T10:38:45.973" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bandsaw will work but you have to consider the blades. They will full faster and the size makes a big difference so you will be changing then all the time. They dull faster you will be buying more and it's hard to get perfect cuts. You can do most things with the tablesaw that a bandsaw can do like cutting chives and relaxing on a tablesaw as well but it won't be as easy as it is on a bandsaw. Bandsaw are cheap used I would get that first and then you'll see and want a tablesaw as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1106" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T10:38:45.973" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4113" CreationDate="2016-05-22T12:30:37.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think your searching around for similar projects to help as a starting point for this was just hampered by your wording, as this type of storage is not shelving. So projects with &quot;shelves&quot; or &quot;shelving&quot; as keywords won't match what you're looking for, which I think is most commonly referred to as a platform bed. The storage built into the platform is secondary, and in-floor storage may be what to look for for that aspect of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So separate searches for &quot;platform bed&quot; and &quot;in-floor storage&quot; may yield what you need, you could then combine features and build details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you might expect something along these lines has already been done by a few people (not least by the person who built the original that you're looking to copy of course) so there's a decent amount out there to find. Here's a link from Apartment Therapy that will at least give you a starting point, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/ikea-diy-ideas-make-your-own-platform-bed-with-storage-208433&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;6 Ways to Make Your Own Platform Bed with Ikea products&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to look for a bit more you may have some luck on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ikeahackers.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ikea Hackers&lt;/a&gt;, a search for &quot;bed platform&quot; yields 192 results and one or more is sure to be of some help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T12:30:37.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4116" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4138" CreationDate="2016-05-22T13:06:24.750" Score="5" ViewCount="29534" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a cheap miter saw. When I saw something the blade does not go all the way through. The blade does not reach entirely between the fence and the bottom, leaving a part uncut. Is this a known problem? Can I adjust some settings on the saw to solve this? Is my saw blade too small?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this picture, the blade does not reach the red part:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zxbBJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zxbBJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also made &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H6kFDyNtqSQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a video&lt;/a&gt; of me sawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2282" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2020-11-10T13:54:45.407" LastActivityDate="2021-10-24T19:13:12.203" Title="Why won't my miter saw cut all the way through my work piece?" Tags="|power-tools|miter-saw|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4116" CreationDate="2016-05-22T13:27:34.360" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is this a known problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't say but the simplest workaround is probably to install a sacrificial fence to hold the pieces being cut far out enough that the teeth will exit the bottom inside corner. Like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WQGk2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WQGk2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mitre saw sacrificial fence&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T13:27:34.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4109" CreationDate="2016-05-22T16:35:24.927" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done that: duplicate an old pig-shaped board with a fresh scrap of hardwood.  Trace the outline, cut out with a bandsaw, finish up the curves with files, and then use a router table to round over the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bandsaw would &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; be good for making strips to glue up into a butcherblock style piece. It's not precise and straignt enough; though if you follow up on the jointer you can make it work, albeit with a lot more waste and possibly non-parallel sides to the strip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you make a &lt;em&gt;real&lt;/em&gt; butcher-block, where the strips are turned sideways so the end-grain is the cutting surface, then the board's original top/bottom are the edges to glue up, and the cut sides are the new face. A jointer won't work on the endgrain, and the bandsaw is probably great for cutting slices from a large chunk of maple: it's what I would have used if I had one. The table saw blade was not tall enough to go through so I had to flip the piece and cut from both faces, and this produced a less-than-smooth cut that took more work (and more waste) to clean up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it depends on what you're doing. It could be a second choice or a primary choice, depending on the nature of the cutting board you're making.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="315" LastEditorUserId="315" LastEditDate="2016-05-23T16:28:01.280" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T16:28:01.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4119" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4120" CreationDate="2016-05-22T18:43:30.097" Score="5" ViewCount="1270" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the minimum power and size (and/or other considerations) I can get to do resawing?  I am thinking the pieces would be big as a piece of firewood.  I guess it could be a little bigger.  I don't know.  I was just kind of intrigued by the whole resawing thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2278" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2019-01-29T23:42:18.727" LastActivityDate="2019-01-31T00:58:47.533" Title="How big or powerful does a bandsaw have to be to resaw?" Tags="|band-saw|resawing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4119" CreationDate="2016-05-22T21:16:42.640" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The limit in size you can resaw width and height-wise is established by what size wood can fit through the exposed blade area of the bandsaw, so measure the distance between the blade and the support column that holds the upper blade wheel and the length of the exposed blade and you have your maximums.  Length-wise, of course you can go on forever, provided you can support the wood in order to feed it through the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Proper support becomes more challenging as the board/log becomes larger.  The wood must pass through the blade without twisting.  You are trying to cut bread slices from a loaf and any twist in the slice will result in a more difficult milling job with a the jointer and planer including much greater waste.  Twist is also very hard on the blade and can easily cause binding and breaking of the blade due to the increased tension it provides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I resaw previously rough sawn lumber I can support it using portable roller stands before and after the table.  For log type resawing work I have rigged up a long roller feed that replaces the bandsaw table and has a mounting sled so that the log can be securely anchored to avoid any rolling to the side as the log is fed through the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for power, my bandsaw has 12&quot; of exposed blade and 14&quot; side clearance to the column, is 1 HP and does fine with hardwood logs up to 12&quot; high, although the feed rate is very slow (I'd guess approx. 1/8 to 1/4&quot; in 10 seconds).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other tricks to resawing so watch some videos  and/or get a good bandsaw book to get more insights.  OR come back to this site as your questions arise!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2016-05-22T21:24:08.677" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T21:24:08.677" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4116" CreationDate="2016-05-22T21:43:56.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are not dropping the saw all the way. In your video, look at the underside of the movable arm. See the little tit sticking down on the left? That should make contact with the frame of the saw. Try looking at the position of blade with no wood in the saw and the arm all the way down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="463" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T21:43:56.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4116" CreationDate="2016-05-23T05:46:56.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It almost looks like the fence that your board sits against while you cut, could be moved more towards the centre. It looks like there are holes for the fence to move forward. So you wouldn't have to make a sacrificial fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2284" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T05:46:56.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4123" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-23T12:11:24.690" Score="6" ViewCount="411" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spar (oil base) won't dry on bar top and it has been 4 days so far. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I switch to water based Poly? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2286" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T11:55:59.480" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T11:55:59.480" Title="Can I switch from my oil base finish, that still has not dried, to a water based poly?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4124" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-23T12:47:57.750" Score="0" ViewCount="2696" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a house and I did most of the renovation work in the house. Most of the things are done, I still have some ugly pipes sticking out of the wall, I really don't like them. I want to hide them using some wooden planks. I already got a table saw, to make the necessary straight cuts, since I am very bad at making a straight cut's. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is I know what I want to do but I don't know where/how to start. can someone help me by giving some suggestion? How can I accomplish this and what is the best type of wood to use in order to make the covers for the pipes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Added later: &#xA;Here is the picture of the pipes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I5e2o.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I5e2o.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;interior photo showing pipes on wall&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2285" LastEditorUserId="2264" LastEditDate="2016-05-29T15:11:57.813" LastActivityDate="2016-05-29T15:11:57.813" Title="making a cover for pipes on the wall" Tags="|table-saw|wood|wood-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4123" CreationDate="2016-05-23T14:03:56.603" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can I switch to water based Poly? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not without first removing the oil-based varnish. It's not about any chemical incompatibility, even after thorough 'drying' of an oil-based varnish it's easy to get beading of a waterbased finish applied on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible the spar won't ever dry properly because something has gone wrong, but generally with this sort of thing patience is rewarded and the varnish &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; dry eventually, although in extreme cases it can take two weeks or so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't wait for some reason your best option might be to strip the existing varnish off, clean the wood down with an appropriate solvent and then give it a light sanding once it has dried. Then start again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the spar still being tacky you might just be able to use mineral spirits/white spirit to dissolve it, but if it has partially cured it may require something stronger, i.e. a reputable chemical stripper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T14:03:56.603" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4127" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-23T19:30:31.300" Score="2" ViewCount="6345" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2 walnut slabs I want to make a table with but they are slightly warped, is there anyway to flatten these back out with water and weight or by bolting the wood down to a frame and then moistening?  Not sure and don't want to make the warping worst than it already is? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2290" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T04:56:43.957" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T10:46:07.833" Title="Warped Walnut Slabs" Tags="|sanding|plane|warp|table-making|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4127" CreationDate="2016-05-24T00:12:22.357" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Essentially: No. You make slabs flat by removing wood to obtain a flat surface, by planing or by using a carriage-guided router or by machine-sanding or some combination of these. Sometimes you can reduce how much wood is lost by dividing into smaller pieces and gluing back together later, but making the grain match up again is a challenge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the related questions here about warped wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T05:27:04.503" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T05:27:04.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4124" CreationDate="2016-05-24T01:21:56.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is really only one option that I could recommend from my experience. Do some boxing-like over the pipes. Cut a board the width of the board and then go the distance you need to go from the wall. Then pain the wood what ever color you have used for the wall. It may not look the best but it would cover the pipes. Otherwise I would think you are better without doing that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T01:21:56.573" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4127" CreationDate="2016-05-24T10:46:07.833" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have to be careful in advising you here since what you mean by &quot;warp&quot; may not match the commonly accepted definition. Some people use the term generically to refer to boards that aren't flat along their length, rather than to describe a specific kind of curvature to which the word more accurately refers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can sometimes improve on this by dampening one or both sides, but there are no guarantees that it'll work as a lot depends on the specifics: when and how/why it occurred, what kind of warping and its severity and last but not least the wood itself, both species and how it's cut (e.g. flat-sawn/plain-sawn v. quarter-sawn). As well as this the individual nature of the piece (how the grain runs in every direction) can be a big factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So before anything else do be aware that some boards inherently want to warp in some way because of their grain (see image &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wFkdK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) and that's the first thing to look at to assess the situation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When you probably shouldn't bother trying&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If the wood was in this shape when you bought it there's a decent chance that it took on that shape naturally, to relieve internal stresses in the board during drying. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A flat section from within such a board (created by planing off the low and high spots) is usually fairly stable and will often/usually remain flat. This is how wood that is slightly non-flat, as much rough wood is from the sawmill, is commonly flattened off in woodworking to prepare it for use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If on the other hand such a board can be made flat again using some combination of water or steam, sunlight, weight or clamping pressure it is very likely in line for re-warping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When it has a chance of working&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The prime candidates here are boards that have cupped or warping since they were bought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two situations I can think of where this commonly occurs. The first it if the wood is stored flat on a surface with the top exposed which doesn't seem like a bad thing, but it can lead to differential moisture exchange between the top and bottom surfaces (if the board is drying the bottom can only do so much more slowly, and the same in reverse if the wood is taking on moisture due to high humidity). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another reason is if the boards got damp on one side (even a light sprinkling of rain onto the boards as they're carried into the shop from the car can be enough) and then were not dried out &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/636/what-does-stickering-wood-mean&quot;&gt;stickered&lt;/a&gt; while being held flat with weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your slabs might be curved from this kind of irregular drying trying a fix is certainly worth trying IMO as you're very unlikely to make matters worse. Some improvement is usually possible, and once or twice I've gotten boards back to completely flat. I then stored the wood under clamp pressure to keep it that way until just before it was used. Wrapping the wood very well in a plastic bag is another way to keep it stable by preventing it from taking on or losing moisture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related previous Questions with some more details:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1500/how-do-you-straighten-bend-wood-planks-without-removing-any-material&quot;&gt;How do you straighten/bend wood planks without removing any material?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2238/how-do-i-correct-extreme-crossgrain-cupping/2240#2240&quot;&gt;How do I correct extreme crossgrain cupping?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T10:46:07.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4131" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-24T12:41:47.137" Score="2" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some leftover piece of 12mm OSB.&#xA;I want to make &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.abeautifulmess.com/2013/02/josh-modern-stool.html?pintix=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this stool&lt;/a&gt; out of it:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NjoPe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NjoPe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Originally it was made from 18mm plywood, obviously I need to adjust to use thinner board. &#xA;I want to keep the weight to the minimum, and keep the strength (I'm going to stand on it occasionally to reach high shelves).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1) Where should it be reinforced? I'm thinking two 15*15*1 mm steel square tube along front leg: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lrOZ7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lrOZ7.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;and 20*20*2 mm steel angle bar along the center of the back leg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) How should I join the corners? Original screws to the edge seems unreliable for a thin board. I'm thinking screws to aluminum angle bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1811" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T14:30:59.290" Title="Can I make a stool from thinner OSB" Tags="|strength|board-materials|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4131" CreationDate="2016-05-24T14:06:27.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first approach would be to glue some 2 cm (~ 3/4 in) strips of the same material to all the places that get screwed and to the edges of the side parts. That gives you 24 mm (~ 1 in) of material to hold your screws which should be plenty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the stool isn't too tall the 12 mm wall material should be rigid enough to withstand the pressure of a medium sized man. With doubled thickness in the screwed places you should achieve a sturdy enough stool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a different note, I made similar stools out of spruce (18 mm, 3 layered plywood) last year and decided to put the bottom part that joins the two sides on the outside of one side. That gave the stool some extra rigidity and they are stackable now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2262" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T14:06:27.183" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4133" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4134" CreationDate="2016-05-24T14:08:31.420" Score="6" ViewCount="3042" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a #5 faithfull handplane (don't judge me, I didn't know any better!) that I tried to get working last year and failed miserably, so it sat in the cupboard for 6 months whilst I sulked.&#xA;Since then I have bought a couple of books, and read a few forums, and i want to try and have another go at working with hand tools to make basic things for the house (a new gate, a repacement door, blanket boxes etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that waffle aside, I have some feeler guages and initially I want to check the sole of the plane for flatness. Will a piece of formica kitchen worktop be a flat enough reference surface to see how bad the plane sole is, or do I need to find something flatter (if so, what can I use that is likely to be found in an average house?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then secondly, if the sole needs a lot of flattening, is that something I can easily do on a series of grades of Scotch paper glueued to the worktop, or am I just creating more problems for myself here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cost is more of an issue than time, I am doing this to do soemthing creative with my hands, but as I do not know yet if this is somethign I will actually enjoy long term, I don't want to buy a lot of equipment that could end up on ebay in 2 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2294" LastActivityDate="2017-02-03T09:43:50.850" Title="Fettling a hand plane" Tags="|hand-tools|hand-planing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4133" CreationDate="2016-05-24T15:05:29.437" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to check if the sole is flat is to turn the plane upside down and lay a trusted straight edge across it in various places and orientations. If you can see light coming thru between sole and straight edge -- assuming it isn't a grooved sole -- then it isn't flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are articles/videos on the web that will guide you in flattening the sole. Generally they do assume you have a reasonably flat reference surface  to support the sandpaper used to grind the sole flat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plane iron can probably also benefit from some flattening and honing, especially for inexpensive planes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be possible to tune this up to get good performance from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T15:05:29.437" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4135" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4136" CreationDate="2016-05-24T15:32:28.560" Score="4" ViewCount="1242" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built a trellis this weekend, but before I could secure it to the fence it got blown over in a storm.  Luckily, the only damage was a splinter on one of the horizontal boards.  I glued it back in place and now I have to re-attach the crosspiece that went there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ke6kv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ke6kv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Trellis damage&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The former nail hole is marked by the red arrow.  I plan to drill out the glue that has filled the nail hole and drive a new nail in.  Is this the right approach?  Do I need to take extra precautions to prevent additional splitting or undoing my repair?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T16:18:04.023" Title="Driving a nail into wood that has split and been glued back together" Tags="|wood-repair|nailing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4135" CreationDate="2016-05-24T16:18:04.023" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is probable that the joint is stronger where it is glued than in the surrounding wood. The original crack was most likely due to the nail so placing another nail could apply pressure to the adjacent wood risking a similar crack.  Drilling the gue out will help, but you will want to keep the hole smaller so that the nail gets a firm grip.  The firmer the grip, the more pressure exerted on the wood.  One alternative is to drill the hole to accommodate a exterior coated wood screw. A screw will provide greater holding power to join the wood pieces and I believe will provide less overall stress in the cracked area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T16:18:04.023" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4137" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4145" CreationDate="2016-05-24T13:37:45.047" Score="2" ViewCount="1158" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to join these wooden beams together, to form a rectangle box which is capable of significant weight? I'd like the ability to deconstruct it, so something involving metal bolts would be preferred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example of what the end result would look like, however they are using screws, which I'd like to avoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C2VwP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C2VwP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if I should be using a steel side plate on each corner, or if I should put a bolt straight through and join each beam together. Although if I use bolts, then I always end up with one half being loose (as they overlap). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2297" OwnerDisplayName="sleepycal" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T16:21:11.543" Title="Best way to join frame members in a rectangle box using bolts?" Tags="|wood|furniture|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4116" CreationDate="2016-05-24T20:39:59.733" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I couldn't figure anything out from inspecting the saw on the outside, so I opened up the saw. It turns out that the saw did not go all the way down because there was a lot of saw dust on the inside:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DMesK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DMesK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;saw dust in miter saw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2282" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T20:39:59.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4139" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4143" CreationDate="2016-05-24T23:24:46.153" Score="7" ViewCount="3043" Body="&lt;p&gt;My mother in law gave us a wooden ornament that she suggests would look great hanging outdoors in our garden. It would be hung under the eave/soffit of the garage but would still be subject to sprinkler watering and sideways rain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not know what type of wood it is made from. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone lend a suggestion as to how to treat it prior to hanging to best preserve its longevity outdoors without falling apart? I welcome a weathered look but would like to keep it intact for as long as possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N3SUZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N3SUZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qRqVu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qRqVu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/17fUe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/17fUe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x5c0x.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x5c0x.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wdViI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wdViI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2090" LastEditorUserId="2090" LastEditDate="2016-05-27T22:07:32.337" LastActivityDate="2016-06-04T15:21:54.850" Title="Ideal outdoor preservative for a wooden ornament" Tags="|finishing|technique|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4139" CreationDate="2016-05-25T05:09:54.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With that much detail I would go for some &quot;sprayable&quot; finish and put on many thin coats. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for longevity, some form of epoxy would probably suit you best. I quickly googled this and found that there is such a thing as ready-to-use-epoxy-spray-paint and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.doityourself.com/stry/what-to-consider-when-buying-epoxy-spray-paint&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;guide&lt;/a&gt; on what to consider when using such a spray. I haven't used anything like it and can't say how this will turn out though, probably very glossy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2262" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T05:09:54.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4141" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-25T05:22:00.450" Score="5" ViewCount="221" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering how this is possible. Vertical panel saws don't cut into the support beams the stock is resting on while being cut. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making horizontal cuts I have seen that the support rails are moved out of the way, but how does that work when sawing vertically? Are there some predefined positions? I don't think so as I have seen one in action and it seemed to be free to cut anywhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone working with such a saw explain how this is possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2300" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-01-12T14:03:58.257" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T14:03:58.257" Title="How do vertical saws avoid cutting their support" Tags="|panel-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4142" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4144" CreationDate="2016-05-25T14:22:04.020" Score="9" ViewCount="30173" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got some sharpening stones from grandfathers shop. Not many though. Some small ones for doing something like a pocket knife. Green with a gritty. Some red ones of same size and texture. A larger grey/brown one that looks like it had oil on it at one point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know exactly what kinds of sharpening stones these are. I am aware there are oil stones and waterstones. Are those the only two really. Besides diamond (which is relatively easy to identify) those are the only ones I see advertised. I recall reading about Arkansas stones but that might be a brand name. Some stones you would buy at like a home improvement store are just called sharpening stones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have a stone what characteristics or tests can I use to determine what &lt;em&gt;kind&lt;/em&gt; of stone it is. This information would be useful so that I can use the stone properly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2022-08-25T15:13:27.393" Title="How can I identify sharpening stones?" Tags="|sharpening|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4139" CreationDate="2016-05-25T14:26:53.230" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As always this sort of thing shouldn't be asked as &quot;What's the best...&quot;, because it's usually the case that there is no best, many options may be equally viable. For this if you asked multiple professional woodworkers I'd bet each would have their own ideas about how this should be treated for the proposed location and there's no way to be sure if one is head and shoulders above the others without trying it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Film finishes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is varnish or what we can loosely refer to here as lacquer, which would include the epoxy as proposed by Stoppal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Epoxy or the right type of lacquer (e.g. an automotive finish) on paper seem like the perfect solution as they can &lt;em&gt;in theory&lt;/em&gt; provide a reliable and durable 100% waterproof coating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, and this is a big but, this assumes even and thorough coating — no voids, thin spots or pinprick holes. Best of luck treating something this intricate and avoiding every one of those potential weak points in the recesses! Spraying such a finish on (which is practically the only possible application method) would actually make complete coverage harder, not easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is exposed end grain everywhere on a carving like this and if water can get to it it will suck it up like a sponge. If this does occur it will leading to areas of localised swelling and within short order you could have cracks forming and possibly delamination. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such I think this is the least good of all the options, despite at first glance appearing to be the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wood preservative&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Just because this is a decorative piece it doesn't mean it has to be treated any differently to other pieces of exterior woodwork, so wood preservative as you might use on a fence is a perfectly viable option here. Clear/colourless and coloured versions are available. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to commercial wood preservatives homemade options are possible, using for example a borax solution, something which is gaining renewed popularity in recent years as people look for non-toxic alternatives. You make up a concentrated solution and then brush it liberally on the wood, letting it soak in and dry. These retard microbial attack and deter wood-boring insects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oil&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;No oil finish is waterproof, let's start by saying that. But what they can do is provide some protection, help preserve the original look of the wood (prevents greying/silvering) while allowing it to take on and lose moisture. Over time the wood tends to age 'gently' or 'sympathetically', unlike what can happen when water eventually gets underneath a varnish and causes patches of ugly discolouration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the older, more tradtional pure oils (most commonly linseed oil in the West, tung oil in parts of Asia) modern &quot;oil finishes&quot; for exterior application are a possibility. These generally have waxes and resins added to provide better waterproofing and longevity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the above refers to raw linseed oil, not boiled linseed oil which is normally what would be recommended. This is one of the few applications where the raw oil is to be preferred. Raw linseed oil is also sold as flaxseed oil although it is commonly more expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Teak oil&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Although I hate the name of this finish — it's not made from teak any more than Danish oil is made from Danes :-) — it has a long proven history of protecting wood, even with full exposure to sunlight and the elements. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No finish&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As odd as it might seem some will advise no finish for this, letting the piece weather naturally. Although this does include the likelihood of cracks forming with no finish on the wood it is free to dry out as fast as possible when it does get slightly damp. Often I would be in favour of this but I don't think it's advisable here without knowing the wood and its characteristics. It might be a species that does not like being wet and will begin to break down faster than you'd like. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's hard to tell from the one small photo but the piece looks pretty sizeable and might therefore not be carved from a single piece of wood. If it is glued up from smaller pieces there's a further unknown and that is whether the glue is soluble, water-resistant or waterproof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T14:26:53.230" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4142" CreationDate="2016-05-25T15:58:30.940" Score="11" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I have a stone what characteristics or tests can I use to determine what &lt;em&gt;kind&lt;/em&gt; of stone it is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no real tests you can do to determine the kind of stone, although you can get a practical appreciation for how it works — fine cutting or not, produces a scratchy or smooth or polished surface, how fast it cuts. Cutting speed is not always directly tied to how finely a stone cuts, although this may seem paradoxical the size and hardness of the abrasive particles can be the same in two stones but their spacing and how strongly they're bound together can vary greatly, q.v. the fast cutting of Japanese waterstones compared to natural American or European stones of approximately the same grit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, stone IDs are a really tricky area and it may require an experienced collector to definitively identify a stone for you. But red stones aren't common so just as a quick guess it's just possible you're seeing an oil-soaked India stone, which would have originally been an orangey colour. Indias were one of the first synthetic hones, offered by Norton since the turn of the last century. They're made from aluminium oxide bound in a ceramic-like matrix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to get expert help in IDing your stones you can investigate this option by posting pictures on various knifemaking or straight-razor forums where members are usually very willing to help ID unknown stones for new members. Many have turned into stone collectors and have a vast knowledge of stones old and new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need to clean the stone, as the current appearance of many old stones may often, in fact, completely mask their true appearance. In extreme cases a stone that is dark grey, greenish or brown turns out to be beige or nearly white after cleaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's roughly the same patch of one of mine before and after cleaning and lapping!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CJkcd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CJkcd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Natural hone before and after cleaning&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am aware there are oil stones and waterstones. Are those the only two really. Besides diamond (which is relatively easy to identify) those are the only ones I see advertised. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although many natural and synthetic Western stones are sold as oilstones note that they don't have to be used with oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than the fact that traditionally things other than oil were used for 'oilstones' almost all can be used effectively with water, a soapy mixture and sometimes even dry*.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using oils broadly speaking this isn't always only one liquid, it can be anything from mineral oil at the viscous end to something finer like a light machine oil or honing oil (baby oil too if you don't mind the scent!), it was and still is quite common to see kerosene used, as well as that mineral spirits or WD-40 are often recommended. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: in general the finer the stone the better it responds to a lighter (less viscous) honing fluid, so it's worth trying various things to find out what works best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I recall reading about Arkansas stones but that might be a brand name. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Arkansas stones should refer to a particular type of stone that actually does come from the state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately these days many kind-of-like Arkansas stones are sold under the name because it's a selling point. There are further designations of Arkansas stones into classes (e.g.  Soft Arkansas, Hard Arkansas, white translucent, black translucent) but these too are abused to add value to stones that aren't what they look like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ditto the above with Washita, Charnley Forest, coticule and Turkey stones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cleaning the stones&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As mentioned above if you post pictures of stones for an ID you may be asked to clean them first. But you should do this anyway, as old oil, dust, rust and metal particles will be removed from the stone and it will cut the way it should. The difference in abrasiveness between a gunked up old stone and one just cleaned can be remarkable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can clean stones in various ways, including at the very basic level just scrubbing down with soapy water and a scrub brush or nylon abrasive pad. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get a stone really clean most of the time you have to resort to soaking. These days many will soak in Simple Green which I've not tried myself but apparently it works really well. It's more common to soak in a solvent of some kind, including mineral spirits but traditionally kerosene or gasoline were usually used because they were cheap and plentiful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In cases of extreme oil buildup, especially when the oil is old and oxidised, caustic oven cleaners are sprayed on to break down the oil. As extreme as this sounds generally it does no harm to stones, whether natural or synthetic and it is very effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a stone really clean it may be necessary to clean it in stages. You soak and clean off the surface, then let it sit for a while (usually weeks) giving time for more oil that soaked into the interior to leach out, which a further soaking can then remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*If using a stone dry it is vitally important to clean the surface regularly (ideally each time) to prevent loading or &lt;em&gt;glazing&lt;/em&gt;, where the pores fill with metal particles and the item to be sharpened can just skate over the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-06-02T00:15:37.807" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T00:15:37.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4137" CreationDate="2016-05-25T16:21:11.543" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't say this is the best way to bolt together a 90° angle but this way of using bolts and captive nuts is widely used in workbench construction where it has to withstand considerable racking forces so it's definitely one good way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5lavm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5lavm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bolted leg and rail&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/american-woodworker-blog/master-cabinetmakers-bench&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Master Cabinetmaker's Bench&lt;/a&gt; on Popular Woodworking.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of having the shallow mortise and the tenon to prevent twisting you can use a pair of bolts, with the end of the rails flush against the uprights:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7fhMr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7fhMr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Twinned bolts&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ibuildit.ca/Woodworking%20Projects/workbench-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How To Make A Workbench&lt;/a&gt; on I Built It.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see the washer and bolt head can also remain on the surface if they won't get in the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is just having one bolt (usually in the centre but sometimes offset lower) along with one or more dowels as shown in one of the images in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2524/design-considerations-for-a-machinists-work-bench/2526#2526&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T16:21:11.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4147" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4149" CreationDate="2016-05-25T23:08:14.523" Score="4" ViewCount="2337" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old table which I would like to disassemble and restore. The side and end rails of the table are joined to the legs using a mortise and tenon, which is then skew nailed from the inside of the rails, through the tenon and into the leg. The nail doesn't protrude at either the point or the head end. I'd like to avoid drilling around the nail heads if possible, although I fear this might be the only option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2266" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T08:59:54.917" Title="Remove nails from table frame" Tags="|furniture|nails|mortise-and-tenon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4141" CreationDate="2016-05-26T04:54:31.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To me it looks like the saw blade actually does cut into (not through) the horizontal backing strips.  The red strips are extruded plastic which are probably replaced from time to time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aXWJytO5bh4&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be&amp;amp;t=1m32s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;At this location&lt;/a&gt; in the referenced video a slit can be seen in the horizontal backing strip.  It appears that the vertical panel saw that is depicted in the film is fairly new and the camera work is such that existing cuts are not readily visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T04:54:31.077" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4147" CreationDate="2016-05-26T08:59:54.917" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No option, you're going to have to dig into the wood a bit. You need to be able to get a grip on the nail heads to begin to pull them out and if they're sunk below the surface you can only do this by removing some wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a bit of luck though you may only need to drill two small holes on either side of each nail, just enough to allow the tips of pliers to get a grip. Needle-nosed pliers are ideal if you have them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've gotten a grip on the nail pull straight up. The grip of wood on a nail can be very tight so this can be difficult at the best of times, but in the Comments you say the table has been in the weather so be prepared for the possibility that this will be much more difficult than you'd like (sorry!) as the nails are likely to be rusted, possibly along their whole length, and rust can virtually glue a nail to wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you can pull the nail up enough that the head projects, obviously continue pulling straight up if the nail is being cooperative. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's hard work and the pliers keeps on slipping free (at worst taking the nail head with it) it's wise to switch to using a nail puller, forked prybar (cat's paw) or the trusty claw hammer. These all require you to lever to one side of the nail so to protect the wood from being dented you need to insert a thin bit of wood or plywood. The blade of a putty knife also works well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pliers only&lt;/strong&gt; — if by chance the pliers is the only tool available you can greatly ease the pulling of nails by also taking advantage of leverage. I couldn't find a photo showing this method so I'll have to try to describe it as best I can. Firstly you switch grip, so that the pliers is holding the nail from the side, just under the head ideally. Insert a thin piece of wood or dowel (the end of a paintbrush handle will work well) underneath the hinge area of the pliers to provide a fulcrum, now lowering the grips will rotate the nose of the pliers upwards, pulling the nail with it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is amazingly effective, requiring little physical effort (go leverage!) and I've successfully removed rink-shank nails this way when I couldn't get a grip on them with the claw hammer I was using. It can be slow, as you need to lever, let go and grip again, lever, rinse and repeat, but it gets the job done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Afterwards&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The drilling and maybe some of the levering is going to mark up the wood around the site of each nail and it'll look a bit chewed up, but as this is on the inside faces of the apron the damage won't normally be seen. If you're like most woodworkers though you will want to tidy it up. Obviously you can just slap in some filler and call 'er done but a better way is plug with wood. Often this is done with a piece of dowelling but because this is a mortise cheek I think it's probably best to drill a shallow hole (e.g. using a Forstner) and glue in a long-grain plug of similar, or if you prefer contrasting, wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case this is purely an aesthetic improvement, filled/plugged or not I don't think it will materially affect the stability of the joints once the table is put back together again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. If after cleaning off the joint faces you find that the fit of the tenons in the mortises is loose you need to carefully choose your new adhesive. None of the usual furniture glues, including &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; white and yellow types of PVA, hide glue and the common foaming type of polyurethane glue are suitable for a very sloppy joint. I think your best bet would be to use epoxy, which has excellent gap-filling properties. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find the straight epoxy is too liquid blend it with wood flour or fine sanding dust to thicken it up (see, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.epoxycraft.com/peanut-butter-ketchup-syrup-mayonnaise-got-epoxy-resin/&quot;&gt;What have peanut butter, ketchup, syrup and mayonnaise got to do with epoxy resin?&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T08:59:54.917" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4133" CreationDate="2016-05-26T16:59:36.507" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is going to run long so TL;DR warning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have a #5 faithfull handplane (don't judge me, I didn't know any better!) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No judgement here! Two Faithfull planes formed the core of my handplane collection when I started out and I use both still regularly. I actually rate the Faithfull planes as possibly the best of the budget planes available over here, in general they have noticeably better fit and finish than Silverline planes for example (although they too can be made to work well, &lt;s&gt;see this video from Graham Haydon, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kURYRhTDzMg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tuning Up a Cheap Handplane&lt;/a&gt; and note how surprised he was at how well it could be made to work&lt;/s&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I've just found out that Graham Haydon's videos have been removed from YouTube unfortunately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All that waffle aside, I have some feeler guages and initially I want to check the sole of the plane for flatness. Will a piece of formica kitchen worktop be a flat enough reference surface to see how bad the plane sole is, or do I need to find something flatter (if so, what can I use that is likely to be found in an average house?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can put aside the feeler gauges for now. This is a 5, a jack plane, if used in its normal function it's not necessary for the sole to be absolutely flat. We should all remember that wooden planes were used for a very long time and their soles can't be expected to remain as flat as a machined piece of metal, and yet they did all that their owners required of them (and still can, there are abundant numbers of woodies of all sizes that are well over a century old and still just as capable as the day they were completed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are lucky enough to buy a plane with a perfectly flat sole that's a good thing and the plane will work excellently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, many out-of-flat conditions on the sole of a plane are actually acceptable. Here are some examples, the coloured zones in each case indicating low spots:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SYQSH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SYQSH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Out-of-flat sole conditions&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to be very clear here, all of the above are acceptable and the plane can function well &lt;em&gt;depending upon what you need it to do&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom two will cause consternation with some viewers, and the conventional wisdom is that a low mouth opening is a dealbreaker, but that's not always the case. If the plane is primarily used for rougher work (as some jacks are dedicated for, also very applicable to scrub planes) the low mouth is of no consequence to the plane's function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; there are numerous other issues that can cause, or contribute to, a plane not functioning well. This includes sharpness, depth of cut, the position of the cap iron/chipbreaker in relation to the edge, how well the cap iron's leading edge is fettled and the size of the mouth (if the frog is set forwards shavings can easily be blocked from rising through the throat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Then secondly, if the sole needs a lot of flattening, is that something I can easily do on a series of grades of Scotch paper glueued to the worktop, or am I just creating more problems for myself here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes you can do this using paper if you decide it's needed. But instead of regular wet-and-dry paper I would recommend that you do, at minimum, the initial bulk removal using the type of paper sold in a roll as it's very strong and you can stretch a long length of it out, this makes the lapping go very much faster if there is a lot of material to remove. So instead of stroking the plane back and forth over 25cm (10&quot;) or so you can do it over 60cm or longer (well over 2'). And if you find you have a lot to remove start at 80 grit &lt;em&gt;at minimum&lt;/em&gt; although beginning at 60 grit would not be a problem. You can actually start and stop at 80 grit if you want to, there's no need to work up to 220 and finer as many people do but that's a discussion for another day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you mention your Formica worktop, yes that should be suitable. Although many people prefer to do this kind of work on glass or a scrap piece of polished granite worktop material should be flat enough as it is made very flat initially, is inherently very strong and stable and is kept flat by the framing that supports is. Somewhere along a length of kitchen work surface there should be an area flat enough for this kind of thing, but check with the edge of a long steel rule or aluminium spirit level to confirm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cost is more of an issue than time... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is one reason to prefer the roll abrasives over sheets, it's usually far cheaper for a given run of paper. It also typically lasts longer, so you save in two ways. Resin-bonded paper like this can last &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; longer than an equivalent grit of silicone carbide paper (the dark grey stuff), outlasting it by as much as a factor of 10, although good and bad examples of both types of paper are out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I don't want to buy a lot of equipment that could end up on ebay in 2 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than the abrasives no equipment is actually needed for flattening a plane's sole. Although you can do some of the flattening using a mill file or machinist's file (and many machinists would recommend doing so) it is quite common today for woodworkers to do the entire job on abrasive paper, cloth or film. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Beyond flattening the sole&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It's important to note that the sole is possibly not the only part of a plane that might need fettling. If you want to smooth out the leading or trailing edges of the mouth, or work on the mating of the frog to the body casting, these are usually jobs for a file, so at least a flat needle file or warding file can be useful, or a mid-size machinist's file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Files can also be used for relieving sharp edges along the sides of the sole and for rounding the leading edge at the toe and the trailing edge at the heel, although that can be done perfectly well with abrasive paper too if preferred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some further reading with a range of opinions and perspectives on the issue:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://paulsellers.com/2012/02/plane-soles-should-be-mostly-flat/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Plane soles should be mostly flat&lt;/a&gt; from Paul Sellers.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.getwoodworking.com/news/article/plane-and-simple/868&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Plane and Simple&lt;/a&gt; by Andy King, on Get Woodworking.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://fingerlakesguitarrepair.com/tuning-a-stanley-bailey-bench-plane/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tuning a Stanley Bailey Bench Plane&lt;/a&gt; on Finger Lakes Guitar Repair.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/plane-soles-ham-hands-make-iron-bananas&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Plane Soles: Ham Hands Make Iron Bananas&lt;/a&gt; from Chris Schwarz on Popular Woodworking.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/american-woodworker-blog/troubleshoot-plane&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Troubleshoot Your Plane&lt;/a&gt; on Popular Woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2017-02-03T09:43:50.850" LastActivityDate="2017-02-03T09:43:50.850" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4151" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4159" CreationDate="2016-05-26T17:19:49.360" Score="9" ViewCount="17787" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to glue two pieces of pine together (at a right angle to eachother, flat sides together) using wood glue and nails. What do I need to do to prepare the wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2251" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T18:08:16.457" Title="What do I need to do to prepare wood for gluing?" Tags="|glue|surface-preparation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4151" CreationDate="2016-05-26T18:07:11.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure the wood is clean (no paint/stain/staples) where you're gluing. Make sure the two boards are flat and square, when pressed against each other they should feel solid not wobbly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now just glue, screw or clamp if necessary and you're done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.familyhandyman.com/woodworking/wood-joints/how-to-glue-wood&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here's sort of a mishmash of gluing tips&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="164" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T18:07:11.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4151" CreationDate="2016-05-26T19:38:21.817" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best glue joins, with wood, will have mated face grain surfaces i.e. no gaps between the wood where the glue is going. Generally smooth (sanded or scraped) wood surfaces are encouraged. Once the glue is place and covering both surfaces apply pressure, with clamps where possible. You should be able to put a fair amount so that you can see some glue seep out. Clean the glue that seeps with a rag. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leave it together for at least as long and the glue needs to set. Longer if at all possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you are describing is a lap join (Thanks AstPace!). Since you are going to be gluing face to face grain the glue should hold very well. Nails might not really be required unless you want them for aesthetic reasons. Since you are going to be close to the edge I would suggest you make some small pilot holes; not too small so the nails still exert pressure. This should discourage splits. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on what this is going to be used for screws would be stronger. Pilots holes are still suggested. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-05-27T18:08:16.457" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T18:08:16.457" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4079" CreationDate="2016-05-26T22:34:04.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brand new, 3/4&quot; diameter, titanium coated bit in a hand held electric drill used to make a hole in clear pine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the problem is most likely speed, combined with power.  With a large diameter bit, you should use a slower speed, assuming a multi-speed drill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are drilling at a high speed and if for some reason the bit loses its bite (say when you pull back on the drill) there is a tendency for the bit to burnish the end of the hole, making it a bit harder, then suddenly get a bite again the pull the drill along.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After pulling the drill outward to clear shavings, push it back in with some force to make certain the tip gains a bite.  It's okay to use a little muscle from time to time even though all conventional wisdom says &quot;let the tool do the work&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T22:34:04.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4156" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-27T01:02:52.900" Score="6" ViewCount="337" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I was walking along a trail in NJ, I came across a fallen branch -- it looked really good and I decided to make a hiking stick out of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 4-5 knots on this as you can see in the photo. How do they affect the integrity of the wood? Will this reduce the strength of the hiking stick that will be subjected to a lot of stress. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking forward to thoughts on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SQoi4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SQoi4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: Edited to better reflect the stackExchange and reduced the scope of the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2306" LastEditorUserId="2306" LastEditDate="2016-05-27T23:01:25.463" LastActivityDate="2016-05-28T22:21:35.320" Title="Knots on the branch that I want to convert to a hiking stick" Tags="|finishing|wood|wood-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4156" CreationDate="2016-05-27T07:32:45.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Ashlar commented it is very difficult to identify the tree species solely from the picture. If you were able to get more pictures of the tree itself or the leaves it produces that could help greatly in identifying it, but if I had to make a guess after a little research of New England region hardwoods &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/FNR/FNR-218.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, I would guess it is from an alder or maple species based on its bark and wood color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your application the knots (eyes) in the wood should do no harm to the hiking stick's integrity as long as there is no rot in them or the stick overall. Also then finishing the walking stick with tung oil should work perfectly for this as you said it is natural and it brings out the natural look of the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;Note:&lt;/b&gt; If anybody has any more knowledge about identifying tree species please comment or feel free to edit my answer as it would be helpful to Krishna to know what he is working with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2271" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T07:32:45.103" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4151" CreationDate="2016-05-27T08:30:20.627" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;All you need to do to prepare wood for glueing is to 'clean' the surface. This can actually just be cleaning in the literal sense of the word since a wipe down with soapy water (followed by rinsing with clean water), or using one of a number of solvents, is sufficient in some instances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But generally it's better practice to expose new wood. For wood already at its final dimensions a very light scraping or sanding is normal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to use sanding just a few passes with med-fine paper (240-320 grit) would normally be sufficient, just enough skim off the surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why wood should be worked freshly prior to glueing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C55Tu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C55Tu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;strong&gt;Wood as an Engineering Material&lt;/strong&gt;, 10-4, a Forest Products Laboratory publication.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case it needs to be specified, &lt;em&gt;clamp firmly&lt;/em&gt;. Good clamp pressure is what ensures a good bond, everything else being equal. Expect to have excess glue squeeze out of the joint, this is normal and indicates sufficient glue was applied initially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I wasn't sure if I should use nails or screws. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On wood as thin as this a glue-only joint will almost always be good enough. The glue bond should be strong enough that an attempt to pull the pieces apart will result in one or both splintering along the grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have to deal with end grain and side, but end is the smaller surface area and glue doesn't do well with ends according to brief research from earlier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;End grain doesn't bond as well as we'd like, but what is particularly weak is end grain/end grain joints. End grain to face grain can be much stronger than supposed and many sources have it wrong about how strong this can actually be in practice (as real-world tests demonstrate). If the end grain is sized prior to the final glue application it can glue much better, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/840/gluing-end-grain/851#851&quot;&gt;Gluing end-grain &lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T08:30:20.627" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4156" CreationDate="2016-05-28T22:21:35.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There are 4-5 knots on this as you can see in the photo. How do they affect the integrity of the wood? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's hard to do more than guess at this without seeing the wood in the flesh and handling it, so no warranty with this but there's a reasonable chance you have nothing to worry about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Will this reduce the strength of the hiking stick that will be subjected to a lot of stress. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knots in a board are definite weak spots so I think it's safe to assume that in a branch or thin trunk like this they must also be. But, a weak spot doesn't mean it fatally undermines a board, there are of course a great many things made from knotty wood and they hold up just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And in fact many hiking sticks and walking sticks are traditionally made from knotty wood. In addition, in certain parts of Britain bows were historically made from knotty native yew, with the knots remaining in the bow stave after shaping. Bows of course have to stand up to repeated heavy bending and a sudden release of tension, if they can do this with knots in place it does indicate that at least in some cases knots don't undermine the strength of the piece of wood to a noticeable degree. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your stick looks fairly beefy, it should innately be quite strong (even if this were only pine it would still be quite strong). If it dries out successfully, without any bad cracks forming, the wood could end up strong, resilient and stable, more than able to withstand the forces you'll subject it to using it as a hiking stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-05-28T22:21:35.320" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4124" CreationDate="2016-05-29T14:58:00.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider adding crown molding to the room. To handle the vertical pipes in the corner, seems like you could adapt the bottom of what's shown in the image below — for example by just having two flat boards forming half a box running down to the floor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick Internet search should provide you with lots of sources of information about how to install this type of molding including youtube videos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xZ0jE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xZ0jE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image of installed crown molding]&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2264" LastActivityDate="2016-05-29T14:58:00.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4163" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-30T12:04:05.537" Score="6" ViewCount="298" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently discovered &lt;a href=&quot;https://sethrolland.com/furniture/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Seth Rolland&amp;#39;s&quot;&gt;Seth Rolland's&lt;/a&gt; furniture website and unique technique /style.&#xA; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3SCV1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3SCV1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fan shaped top is cut from one piece of wood using a bandsaw alternating cuts from opposite sides that stop short of cutting the full length thus creating a very flexible shape, one I want to explore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first problem I thought of is how to clean up the sawmarked edges created by the bandsaw.  I don't have a vertical belt sander, but even that tool will be limited by its throat width to several inches.  Is there alternative I could use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-09-14T00:51:42.870" LastActivityDate="2016-09-14T00:51:42.870" Title="Options for sanding this type of bandsawn woodwork" Tags="|technique|furniture|sanding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4163" CreationDate="2016-05-30T13:05:03.513" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0000614UT&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Makita-9032-4-4-Amp-8-Inch-Variable/dp/B0000614UT&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;The link is something that will more than likely set your standard for this. It is a narrow and long belt sander that should get a good area of what you need to sand. Otherwise for the rest your better off by hand. When doing it by hand I would fold it up  so it is more sturdy while working with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T13:05:03.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4163" CreationDate="2016-05-30T15:00:25.353" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The guy I bought my used bandsaw from, only got a new one because of one feature I found fascinating. He wanted a bandsaw he could fit a sanding-band into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just tried looking for this on international (English) sites, but couldn't find anything on it. The brand he bought was either a &quot;Hammer&quot; or or &quot;Felder&quot;, which to my knowledge are quality woodworking tool companies that sell (and i think produce) in Austria and Germany. I couldn't find decent pictures of those though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But here's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.maschinensucher.de/Profilbandschleifmaschine-Zimmermann-PS-S/i-859926&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; to a page describing just such a bandsaw (in German, sorry) accompanied by pictures illustrating the benefits of such a system quite good in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The belt-rest could be made quite thin, or left out entirely if one knows what he's doing. The pieces that could be sanded can be quite a lot bigger than with your default belt sander. Depending of course on the cut-height, distance between blade and machine base and so forth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: i would have added the images directly, but i'm not quite ready to be sued by some copyright enthusiast :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2262" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T15:00:25.353" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4163" CreationDate="2016-05-31T05:21:10.047" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I were going into production, a dedicated special purpose sanding machine would seem appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, for the one-off sort of project that most of woodworking SE contributors are likely to do, good old hand sanding, coarse to fine, will probably work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big issue is to make sure that when sanding deep in the throat near the end of the cut, I would attach a C-clamp (properly padded) on the uncut portion to prevent the accidental splitting that could quite likely occur should the sanding get overly enthusiastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T05:21:10.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2852" CreationDate="2016-06-01T00:13:34.897" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I spent more than a few years needing a faster drying finishing product and found that by adding an agent that was compatible with the finish would always work.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, adding a good quality lacquer thinner to any oil based product would help.  If it was a water based product, I used either grain or denatured alcohol.  Experimentation pays big dividends.  For instance, I made my own analyn dies for toys and children's furniture building which requires a non toxic finish which is colorfast.  Denatured alcohol worked best there or even a high &quot;proof&quot; grain or even rubbing alcohol (&gt;90%) because all of the dies I used were water soluble.  Even when using a vinyl finish, lacquer thinner did a great job, especially if spraying.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2319" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-06-01T04:15:36.583" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T04:15:36.583" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1629" CreationDate="2016-06-01T03:03:18.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My table saw makes the same sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the set screw on the upper pully is constantly loosening, to the point I finally tapped the upper pully shaft about an eighth inch . . .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize NOW the number one reason for this rattling noise and the vibration has got to be the fact that the two pullys are not perfectly aligned AND my v-grooved belt is anywhere from .25 to .5 too long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My saw is an antique mounted on a homemade iron-frame - the motor sits underneath on a .75 wood 'shelf'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize - when I loosen and move the motor back &amp;amp; tighten it down in order to get the belt tighter, I am also causing slight misalignment between the lower motor pully &amp;amp; the upper pully!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If those two pullies are not lined up, and I think exactly lined up, the belt is going to rattle and vibrate something awful and ultimately damage the saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2320" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T03:03:18.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4171" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-01T14:02:35.017" Score="4" ViewCount="512" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a bar stool from OSB. I do know it's a very questionable material choice, but it fits my aesthetics, and I'm willing to try my chances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to varnish and sand all people-facing edges , &lt;a href=&quot;https://diy.stackexchange.com/a/84003/38229&quot;&gt;as suggested on DIY SE&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I'm still concerned with the edge facing the floor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w8jp4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w8jp4.png&quot; alt=&quot;Stool foot and edge&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I prevent chips from coming off the outer layers when the stool is shifted around?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be better(less labor and material cost, longer lasting) given the choices below?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Round the edge, so that no outer chips would be subject to&#xA;lateral forces from friction with the floor. If I go this route can I avoid renting a router and do it with a sander? What's the radius I should be aiming at?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put on PVC edge banding.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Just have few extra layers of varnish.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1811" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:22:17.110" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T09:57:51.863" Title="How to treat floor-facing edge of OSB for a stool leg?" Tags="|furniture|board-materials|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4171" CreationDate="2016-06-01T16:43:54.497" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing that comes to mind is a nail-in furniture foot like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/1150H7EwifL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/1150H7EwifL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/1150H7EwifL.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from this &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0058KRMGW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt; product page - no endorsement implied&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, that doesn't really fit with the aesthetic of your stool, and probably isn't what you're after. I would imagine that the nail would be difficult to drive straight into your thin OSB, probably wouldn't hold forever, and the foot itself would be considerably larger than the leg. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, now that I've shot down my suggestion... I thought I'd just throw it out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;hr&gt;The long game comes into play (thanks Matt!): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sand the floor contact surface nice and flat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Round the edge slightly (sand paper should be sufficient)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make a felt &quot;runner&quot; for the bottom of each leg so that it slides along the floor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attach it with glue and a few small ring-shank brads with the heads sunk below the level of the felt.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The ring-shank helps prevent it from popping&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The counter sink prevents it from scratching the floor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2016-06-01T19:59:12.660" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T19:59:12.660" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4171" CreationDate="2016-06-02T08:23:07.830" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Route a groove along the length. Glue a piece of hardwood into it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will give the stool a long hard piece of hardwood to stand on and wear down instead of OSB. The stool will be elevated a millimetre or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T08:23:07.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4171" CreationDate="2016-06-02T09:57:51.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm making a bar stool from OSB. I do know it's a very questionable material choice, but it fits my aesthetics&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OSB gets a lot of hate these days (reflected in some of its unfortunate nicknames, including Old Sh*t Board) but I think a lot of it is unjustified. The material has at least a few things to recommend it, including its high strength and moisture-resistance. It's also very heavy, which is usually cited as a negative* but of course might be advantageous in certain applications. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as you say it can fit an aesthetic: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dP0nG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dP0nG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;OSB used as OSB&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see this as any different to proudly using MDF or plywood where in the finished project the material — face &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; edges — is seen for what it is, not hidden by joinery or an opaque finish/laminate. Eames lounge chair anyone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How do I prevent chips from coming off the outer layers when the stool is shifted around?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The general method for helping to prevent this in solid wood is what I was going to suggest first as it wasn't on your bullet-point list. This is to add a small chamfer around the bottom edges. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding a chamfer is basically the same principle as rounding over the edges, but simpler and easier to do, while being just as effective. By doing this the actual arris (the very apex of the edge) won't drag against the floor when the piece is moved, usually enough to prevent the lifting of chips/grain from the face. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In solid wood a very modest chamfer can be effective, but because this is OSB the thickness of the surface flakes should dictate the width of the chamfer you use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sealing the edge&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Your bullet point number three is a good idea, not as an option but to be done in addition to chamfering or rounding over the edge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was going to suggest sealing the edge in contact with the floor anyway, but using epoxy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Epoxy is sometimes used to treat the end grain of legs on outdoor furniture, or on something intended for a location where the floor will be washed down regularly, sealing the end grain and giving very good waterproofing. A few coats of varnish will accomplish the same thing, the epoxy is just a little to a lot faster depending on the varnish being used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to use epoxy, heat the edge of the OSB with a hairdryer first, then lay on the glue and it'll soak in well as the wood cools. One application should be sufficient. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should note that it's likely that this isn't needed to prevent rot, only to prevent discolouration. OSB is generally very weather-resistant from what I've read recently, and only last week I saw some OSB site doors in another part of the city that I know have been exposed to the elements for much longer than a year (I think close to three years) and other than having silvered/greyed they are in good shape. Much better shape that I would expect if an exterior-grade plywood was used given the generally poor quality of that these days!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*I notice also that weight is rarely given as a negative when it comes to heavy solid timbers :-| We woodworkers can be a very capricious lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T09:57:51.863" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4175" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4181" CreationDate="2016-06-02T11:48:19.083" Score="4" ViewCount="2567" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been dealing with a problem where standard screws keep getting pulled out of a wood frame. I know there are options, but it got me thinking:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there such things as screws that have &quot;oversized&quot; threadform? (if so, what are they called?) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my research, I could get a little extra 'bite' by using sharp V threads. Most threads seem to be between .60-.75 pitch, but is there something on the scale of 1.5 pitch? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is threading that large not practical because it would require so much force to drive? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or would the material of the thread not be strong enough to add any practical gripping power?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2322" LastActivityDate="2018-02-18T11:20:22.127" Title="Are there such things as oversized screw threads?" Tags="|screws|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4175" CreationDate="2016-06-02T12:36:29.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, I have had screws that had some huge threads. But because I never look for them I do not know how common they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-06-02T16:12:13.083" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T16:12:13.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4175" CreationDate="2016-06-02T14:20:19.713" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are Confirmat screws that are made for screwing into particle board. I am not sure how well these would work in normal wood.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QbNBI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QbNBI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Confirmat screw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Screws in general don't hold nearly as well when screwed into end grain as they do into face or edge grain.  It is for this reason that people use pocket holes for this type of connection.  If the wood around the threads has been damaged, you can drill it out and plug it with a glued in plug that fits tightly, then screw into the plug.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also reinforce the wood around the threads with epoxy.  To do this, drive the screw as normal, then remove the screw and fill the hole with a thin epoxy, then reinsert the screw.  The epoxy will strengthen the wood fibers around the threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T14:20:19.713" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4175" CreationDate="2016-06-02T15:33:39.047" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned above, Confirmat is made to handle mdf/particle board where screws tend to pull out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A walk down the aisle will show all sorts of screws including what seems like a lot of new types.  Depending on overall need, I like the course &quot;drywall&quot; screws, but be aware they are much more brittle than normal wood screws.  &quot;Decking&quot; screws seem to be a good mix of thread and steel properties for a lot of applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like the Epoxy suggestion, CA cyanoacrylate(?) glue will support the threads, and is used when threading a turned wooden box to keep the threads from crumbling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T15:33:39.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4179" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4182" CreationDate="2016-06-02T21:47:37.087" Score="4" ViewCount="420" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to build a platform for my laptop that can be positioned over my bike trainer.  I hope to make it out of plywood and have 3 pieces that slot together.  I'm trying to sketch up some designs, but I'm wondering if anyone has advice on making a tall structure like this.  It would end up looking like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EJBIi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EJBIi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but, of course, be a lot taller and skinnier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Something basically like this design:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V2qha.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V2qha.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but with the legs much taller. I am wondering if this would be stable?  Also, what tools would I need to cut the holes an shape the interlocking parts that sticks up from the legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit- Results and possible upgrades:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking about adding support cross bars at the points indicated by the red arrows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vHyf0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vHyf0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There really isn't a lot spaces where cross bars/supports would fit.  The bike frame and my pedaling legs cover a wide range of areas.  Both supports would take the form below with the bottom support resting on the floor with the opening (cut-outs) facing upwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cJXUM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cJXUM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2325" LastEditorUserId="2325" LastEditDate="2016-06-06T22:35:47.127" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T22:35:47.127" Title="3 (or 4?) piece plywood desk over bike trainer" Tags="|plywood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4179" CreationDate="2016-06-03T00:42:31.057" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In simplest terms, what you are trying to do is create a stable platform at a specific height.  To remain stationary the top must resist shifting in all three dimensions. Both tops in your photos are held in place vertically by the legs (no problem here), and resist movement forwards and backwards because of the long connection between the legs and the top.  The first table also has a vertical board at the center that supports the top, stiffens the legs and helps prevent movement of the top from  side to side.  The lower bed table appears to be lacking this feature, but because of its small size the legs can be secured to the top and provide enough stiffness through the glue or screws to prevent side to side movement and keep the legs aligned vertically. The forces acting in each direction will have greater impact on the pieces sturdiness as the length of the legs or width of the table increase. Eventually, the forces will be great enough that the plywood panels will not be able to resist them adequately and will begin to bow out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what to do?  A 3/4&quot; plywood top should be adequate to span the 20&quot;-24&quot; width needed.  The same is true in the front/back direction where the vertical stiffener (or two) will support the top.  The legs will work best if they are vertical or are stiffened with additional wood at the vertical edges, especially if on an angle as in the first example.  Consider that each intersection is a potential hinge and must be held in place firmly. Do this with glued mortise and tenons or other appropriate wood joints  The bed table looks like the legs just fit in a slot in the top.  This will not work at the scale of your desk, but not as the table gets larger.  Make the vertical cross board(s) as deep as you can to increase their stiffening effectiveness.  Of course the simplest solution may be to get a stool and build a table platform on top at the correct height or get a taller standing desk/table.  But if the idea is to make something more stylish, then be prepared to make it a bit more hefty that the examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you have shown looks simple, but furniture design is just as complex as constructing a building, only at a a smaller scale.  The same engineering principles apply to both.  It is unclear what level of woodworking experience and tools you have.  You may want to consult a friend to help design and build your piece if needed.  If you draw up a design and post it in a question with dimensions you may get further feedback on how well it will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T00:42:31.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4175" CreationDate="2016-06-03T09:04:19.037" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've been dealing with a problem where standard screws keep getting pulled out of a wood frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with options on screws I think the first thing you should look at is &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; are your current screws pulling free? It sounds like there's an issue with one or more of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A) the wood being too weak (in which case no screw of reasonable gauge may hold successfully)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;B) the load is too high for the number of fasteners (if possible increase the number to spread the load)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;C) the pilot holes were drilled too large&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A and B can be linked, so a fix for A can mean that the existing number of screws will be sufficient now that they have a firmer hold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of whether C was the case initially since you've already had screws pull free I think we can assume you have stripped holes, which means you have to go up a gauge or two in screw size and/or repair the existing holes before driving in new fasteners (see &lt;strong&gt;Loose screws&lt;/strong&gt; in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3735/what-options-do-i-have-to-repair-this-chair/3737#3737&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your wood doesn't have the strength to support conventional wood screws then one of the fixes for a stripped hole can be used to provide a more secure hold, including drilling out for a glued-in hardwood dowel or wooden plug (note: only drive screws home after the glue has fully cured). In addition to inserting dowels or plugs where the screws will go dowels can also be installed at 90° to the screw's axis. When driven home the screw then bites into the side of the dowel (long grain) which provides a very much stronger hold if it is going into end grain. This is often done if strength is important:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IJtvB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IJtvB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dowel to secure screw in end grain&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are there such things as screws that have &quot;oversized&quot; threadform? (if so, what are they called?) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coach screws can have larger threading in comparison with a typical wood screw, although this does tend to go hand in hand with them being quite beefy. Many would to too large or ugly for some applications. Although there is some variation they typically look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JKxwp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JKxwp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Coach screw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many modern deck screws also have larger threading (or twinned threads). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Most threads seem to be between .60-.75 pitch, but is there something on the scale of 1.5 pitch? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Machine screws have a lower pitch. Although they also have a very shallow threading usually if they fit their hole well they can have an extremely good hold in wood (hardwood in particular). Two reasons they're not more widely used is that they're slow to drive and the head style is usually not what we're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Or would the material of the thread not be strong enough to add any practical gripping power?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wood is nearly always going to be the weak point here. It's the threading in the wood that may not be strong enough as it's created partially or wholly by crushing of fibres. There's little fear of the thread on the screw itself stripping off unless it's been damaged, e.g. by corrosion. But even at that I've pulled heavily rusted screws and bolts from wood numerous times and the threading usually remained intact!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T09:04:19.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4179" CreationDate="2016-06-03T09:28:07.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;but with the legs much taller. I am wondering if this would be stable? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No guarantee but I think it could be stable enough if you use thick ply (3/4&quot; / 19mm or better) and if the joints are made very neatly for a good fit. Ideally I'd want to see a brace lower down on the legs but I assume that won't be possible with the bike trainer in the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also, what tools would I need to cut the holes an shape the interlocking parts that sticks up from the legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the bad news, that you're asking the question probably indicates you don't already own suitable tools for the job and are practised enough in using them. For furniture like this to be firm and stable the slots need to be cut quite accurately, if too tight the pieces simply won't go together. But too loose and it'll wobble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are numerous ways of cutting the ply for something like this, and many guides out there will assume a table saw is available! You could do this entirely using hand tools (panel saw, drill and files or sandpaper) but it would be much easier with a jigsaw and a power drill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; if you're unfamiliar with modern plywood most common stuff (and some supposedly better than this) is not very well made, and there can be numerous voids inside and possibly irregular interior plies. These don't necessarily affect strength in any noticeable way, but it can make the exposed edges uglier than you'd prefer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look closely at the first image you posted there's a black line near the bottom of the front-right corner, that's a void. Some boards can have many of these unfortunately and you may want to fill them to improve looks. This is not at all hard to do but it's an additional step that many step-by-step guides don't mention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T09:28:07.810" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4184" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4259" CreationDate="2016-06-04T10:01:42.467" Score="4" ViewCount="1725" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this wooden beam 12cm x 12cm. I need to remove a 10cm x 10cm x 6cm cube from it. What's the easiest way to approach this? I don't mind buying machinery for it if that makes the task any easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I want to end up with the beam and I don't care about the cube. A comment suggested that it might not be obvious. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LkQll.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LkQll.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2331" LastEditorUserId="2331" LastEditDate="2016-06-05T02:00:37.167" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T21:58:21.907" Title="How to remove a smaller cube from the end of a wooden beam" Tags="|cutting|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4185" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-04T11:46:30.513" Score="4" ViewCount="1548" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a very large chest made of teak and mounted a 50&quot; LED TV to the inside of the lid so we could hide the it when it wasn't in use.  The lid (with the tv mounted) is about 80 lbs and 24&quot; from hinge to lip.  I want something that keeps the lid open at 90 degrees and keeps the lid from slamming when it closes.  The best thing I've found are a pair of these &lt;a href=&quot;http://truck-hardware.orrorr.com/item/refrigerators/ll-categories-gas-springs-gas-springs-for-cabinets/8031uw?&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stabilus gas springs&lt;/a&gt; but they can only handle 56lbs.  Is there a better product for this application?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wMbST.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wMbST.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chest Closed&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0ibQM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0ibQM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chest Open&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HMSEd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HMSEd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Side of chest where support will be mounted&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2332" LastEditorUserId="2332" LastEditDate="2016-06-04T12:46:50.240" LastActivityDate="2016-06-04T21:01:02.427" Title="90 degree soft close lid support for 80lb lid?" Tags="|cabinetry|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4184" CreationDate="2016-06-04T13:38:54.113" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are two approaches:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saw and chisels.  This is the easiest and least expensive approach.  A sharp hand saw will make short work of cutting into the wood on all three faces cutting a triangular section on each face.  Clearly you cannot saw any deeper without overcutting the outer lines.  Next, draw a line across the top diagonally from top left corner to the top right corner, securely clamp the block to solid work surface and remove the outer section of the clock which has had its inner face fully sawcut using a chisel starting at on the top line and working down.  This block will come free quickly since you are using the chisel to split the wood along its grain much as an ax splits firewood. Now you can use   a 1&quot; +/- chisel and mallet working along the sawn inner faces to cut out the remainder of the wood. Take the wood out in small depth increments, cutting across the grain several mm using the sawn face of the remaining wood as a guide and then with the grain to pry the cut section out. Work methodically and you will soon have the full volume removed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Router with a long bit.  This option will require securing the wood post to a solid bench such that the top is flush with the top of the bench.  You will then mount two wood rails to the bench surface to serve as guides so that the router base plate prevented from penetrating into the wood beyond the width and depth of the void are desired. Begin by removing a shallow section (5mm) with the router and use increasingly deeper bit settings  until you have desired depth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The saw and chisel is the quicker/easier method especially in softwoods like in your picture.  The router can be dangerous for a beginner so make sure you understand how to use it properly before making this type of attempt.  As with all woodwork projects, your first attempt may not be as successful as you hoped for.  Practice improves everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-06-04T13:38:54.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4185" CreationDate="2016-06-04T14:00:38.930" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A commercial grade door closer might do the trick.  A door closer can be set with a limit to prevent the door from opening too far, and can close the door once triggered.  It gets its power when the user initially opens the door.  In your case, you would rig the closer in reverse to assist (close) when you open the lid and resist when closing it.  The important thing is that commercial doors are heavy and the closers should be strong enough to offer real assistance in your setup. A good commercial carpenter would be able to assist you on selecting the right style of closer and how to rig it in the cabinet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cGPpU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cGPpU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2016-06-04T16:34:41.770" LastActivityDate="2016-06-04T16:34:41.770" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4139" CreationDate="2016-06-04T15:21:54.850" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned, best is relative to what you want to end up with.  Jamestown Distributors, a marine finish dealer, has what is termed a Penetrating Epoxy.  A Fine Woodworking article several years ago now reviewed some of these with this type (with an over coat of varnish) being the longest lasting.  I've used a similar product which leaches into the wood like an oil, flexes with the wood in weather, and for my front door in Texas, I wouldn't ever finish for outside without it.  It does produce a gloss finish, and slightly darkens the wood as one would expect an oil or such to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turners likewise use an epoxy (or epoxy like) product and vacuum to inject resin deep in wood pores.  For this, such a setup would be difficult, and that requires 45 mins or more in an oven to cure the resin.  But still an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastActivityDate="2016-06-04T15:21:54.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4189" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4191" CreationDate="2016-06-04T19:15:36.817" Score="13" ViewCount="48170" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in the process of applying polyurethane varnish to a finished workpiece and have been sanding between coats as advised by the manufacturer instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I initially wondered why this was necessary until, after applying the first coat, I noticed that the wood was bumpy where it hadn't been previously.  Why does this happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I doing something wrong? My assumption is that sanding between coats ruins the finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used this varnish: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodoc.com/products/24&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.woodoc.com/products/24&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2251" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-09-06T13:23:08.187" LastActivityDate="2020-09-06T13:23:08.187" Title="Why does my workpiece become rough again after applying polyurethane varnish when it wasn't before?" Tags="|finishing|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4189" CreationDate="2016-06-04T20:19:52.710" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bumpy feeling you describe is probably the wood grains raising up after applying your varnish; especially if it's a water based one.  I previously asked a question about &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/6/whats-the-purpose-of-raising-the-grain-before-finishing-a-furniture-piece&quot;&gt;why it's important to raise the grain&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanding between the coats shouldn't ruin your finish.  Just make sure you use a high grit count and sand lightly.  A typical rule of thumb is to use the next grit available after the last sanding grit you used. (For example, if you finished your piece with 220, then it should be 320.)  Furthermore, sanding between the coats allow you to remove minor imperfections such as bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a bit late now, but I suggest you try on a scrap piece of wood before the real piece.  That way, you can see if you like the end result before wasting time and effort on something you are not satisfied.  It's also a good practice for the real deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-06-04T20:28:47.960" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4189" CreationDate="2016-06-04T20:23:11.243" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually when varnish makes a surface rough, it's either that it's picked up dust during the drying process, or it was being brushed/wiped too long after application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gently sanding between thicker coats is necessary to ensure the peaks and valleys of the finish don't interfere with adhesion of future coats, and so their appearance isn't exacerbated by future coats. But keep it gentle, and don't be afraid to use a higher grit than the manufacturer's specs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I highly recommend thinning. Thinning a varnish to wiping consistency (about 50/50 with OMS) and applying twice as many thin coats (that dry twice as fast) eliminates a host of issues with finishing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fix:  ensure the drying environment is relatively dustless, and don't overwork the application (wipe and say goodbye till it's dry)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2334" LastActivityDate="2016-06-04T20:23:11.243" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4185" CreationDate="2016-06-04T21:01:02.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume you've read the detailed specs on the gas springs, because simply taking the pressure from the website and equating that to the mass won't work. They may still do for damping the closing movement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Automotive gas springs may have a higher load. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want it to hold at 90 degrees you'll need some kind of stop. And the lid will be nearly balanced at this point. So some big rare-earth magnets in the stop may be what you need. You can buy them with a countersunk hole for screw fixing, though I suggest also sinking them into pockets with just enough recessing that they don't hit each other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've taken the whole weight of a decent size monitor on quite small magnets. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2016-06-04T21:01:02.427" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4193" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4196" CreationDate="2016-06-04T22:29:58.790" Score="3" ViewCount="1610" Body="&lt;p&gt;The boards on my secondhand hard wood table top have started to lift at the join in a couple of places. I assume it's due to moisture making the timber swell. What can I do to fix this and prevent it in the future? &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Th39C.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Th39C.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;Here are a couple of photos of the underside of the table at the point where the boards have started lifting. The first is on the outside of the leg; the second is on the inside of the apron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YsgFk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YsgFk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lSB31.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lSB31.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2266" LastEditorUserId="2266" LastEditDate="2016-06-08T23:13:56.100" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T07:46:35.950" Title="How can I repair raised boards on table top?" Tags="|warp|tabletop|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4193" CreationDate="2016-06-05T02:28:48.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say you need to redo the top and do different joint jobs to prevent or make thinner board cuts, like 2-3 inches. For the joint jobs there is many of them out there, I am talking about router bits. Any of those should help you in this situation. You could also try planing if you have a planer on the tops and bottoms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T02:28:48.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4193" CreationDate="2016-06-05T08:33:34.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Often (not always*) when something like this happens with a wooden product it indicates a problem with the way the piece was constructed, which is sadly not uncommon in manufactured pieces (this is not, as might be supposed, only a recent issue as books from the early 20th century mention it was not uncommon even back then). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just from looking at the one image you've provided the only thing that jumps out is there's a cross-grain situation, with the boards making up the tabletop panel running one way and the grain in the frame (?) element or decorative bullnose running the other way, so there are definitely at least some problems with the way this was put together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rectifying something like this can usually be done, but it may not be easy or practical. It may require basically restructuring the table, or it could be as simple as changing the fixings used to hold the top in place, we can't tell without seeing more photos of other aspects of the table's construction — a key one being how the top is attached to the framework or apron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Other times it's a problem with the wood used. The construction details of a piece can be perfectly good and it can still warp or distort if the wood isn't quite up to snuff (e.g. it wasn't dry enough before being used) or perhaps if the factory was drier than where the table ended up, so some expansion took place in every piece of wood used which the design can't accommodate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit after update:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those pics help a bit in understanding what's going on, although it's hard to visualise the entire piece the way you would if you could look at it in the flesh. See that bent metal (?) bracket screwed into the underside of the top? That's the equivalent of a hardwood button (on the left &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qaQKK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;), one of my preferred methods for attaching tabletops. If there are matching ones spaced around all four sides the top is attached properly, and the raised boards may have been caused by a poor glue joint or one or more damper boards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My money is on less-than-perfect glue joints being at least part of the problem. The underside shows us the joints 'warts and all' and they are not great. In fact a few are pretty bad — glue joints should be very thin for strength, at best invisibly thin (less than a human hair). Certainly no open gap! This indicates that either A) the jointing of the edges wasn't done well initially (so they weren't straight and square) or B) the glueing wasn't done well. One or both of these allow the joints to open up over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-06-13T07:46:35.950" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T07:46:35.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="287" CreationDate="2016-06-06T08:40:15.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;as I have seen chuck is basically for either symmetrical job or for unsymmetrical long jobs but face plate is used when the job is irregular and is short and can't go into the chuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T08:40:15.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4200" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-06T08:40:45.257" Score="4" ViewCount="312" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a cabinet with rounded features and inlaid designs (see below). What woodworking style is this, and where and when did this style originate? Any suggestions about the date and provenance would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YkEHG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YkEHG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image of cabinet with rounded features and inlaid design&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2339" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T21:23:39.097" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T09:47:00.257" Title="What are the name and origin of the woodworking style used for this wooden cabinet with rounded features?" Tags="|furniture|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4184" CreationDate="2016-06-06T13:01:26.717" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would use an oscillating multi-tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a technique similar to this- &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qwpt1ghzdNg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qwpt1ghzdNg&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Basically removing a small layer (1/2 inch) at a time till your at the required depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1874" LastEditorUserId="1874" LastEditDate="2016-06-07T18:40:53.917" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T18:40:53.917" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4184" CreationDate="2016-06-06T15:10:11.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Along the lines of the comment left by Graphus, I would tend to try to accomplish this a different way, with an eye toward the strength of the piece. Instead of cutting out a cube, start with a 10 cm x 10 cm post of the appropriate height. Then glue two 2 cm boards to adjacent faces of the post. This will let you pick boards where the direction of the grain is much stronger than what will be left if you make the cuts as shown in your picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T15:10:11.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4204" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4207" CreationDate="2016-06-06T18:49:52.990" Score="2" ViewCount="3333" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a project that I'm hoping won't go up in flames... literally! It's a table top (made out of wood) for a fire pit. I planned on protecting the bottom with this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Specialty-12-oz-Black-High-Heat-Ultra-Spray-Paint-241169/203161184&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;High Heat Ultra Spray Paint&lt;/a&gt;, but I'm not sure what kind of finish to use for the top. Normally I would use Thompson's Water Seal for outdoor furniture, but I believe that finish isn't fire resistant. Is there a finish out there that would protect this project from catching fire when placed over a smoldering pile of ash?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2341" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2016-06-07T21:00:32.027" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T21:00:32.027" Title="Need a fireproof/weatherproof solution for fire pit table top" Tags="|finishing|water-protection|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4205" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4209" CreationDate="2016-06-06T19:42:29.543" Score="4" ViewCount="2340" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wanting to know if using M&amp;amp;T joint on wall framing (for an outside shed) is a bad idea and or dangerous. I have a deck that I'm in the middle of tearing down, and I'm wanting to recycle the majority of the wood. Lastly my finances are rather tight so the less I have to buy the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;The hopeful plan&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to take the 2x12's that were the joists and rip them into 3 even pieces (roughly 3 9/16&amp;quot;) each. This would essentially give me a bunch of 2x4's. I'd then like to cut A 1 inch tenon into the vertical studs with a matching 1&amp;quot; mortise on the top and bottom. Mentally, I think this will work as I've been told it was the old way of building walls. Below is a crude drawing I did in SketchUp. While drawing I realized the two outside studs can't go on the edge, so is there a way of still keeping the outside stud (maybe oriented differently) and if so how?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p4fwR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p4fwR.png&quot; alt=&quot;Top down view&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;A little backstory&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been following Paul Sellers for a little bit now absorbing his knowledge of how to use simple hand tools. But one thing that he either directly said or alluded to was to pay attention to the wood and work with it. I saw a documentary on Japanese woodworking and that got me thinking about how can I build things differently and &amp;quot;work with the wood&amp;quot; instead of against it. So that is why I am willing to spend the extra time to cut this all out for the framing. Now this isn't to say that I'm not going to use screws at all as I plan on using them to put the siding on, and I think I am going to need it for the roof (unless there is a technique for that too!) Anywho. Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2342" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2017-01-25T07:32:30.210" Title="Mortise and Tenon for shed wall framing" Tags="|joinery|mortise-and-tenon|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4204" CreationDate="2016-06-06T19:55:26.300" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even if you coated it with a thin sheet of steel - which you'll never get to burn with a wood fire - a wooden lid would char badly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to keep the temperature of the wood low with a decent layer of insulating material if it's going to go over the top of glowing coals. You &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be able to achieve this with a steel sheet against the wood, then an air gap, then another steel sheet, but long term I doubt it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T19:55:26.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4204" CreationDate="2016-06-06T20:30:52.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/hardwoods/cumaru/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cumaru hardwood&lt;/a&gt; (aka Brazilian Teak or Golden Teak).  My internet searching seems to indicate that this wood has a Class A fire rating and is as resistant as concrete to fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mataverdedecking.com/class-a-fire-rated-hardwood-decking-and-siding&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This link&lt;/a&gt; includes a number of results from test data backing this up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The type of testing that these hardwood decking and siding species were tested for is commonly referred to as ASTM E84-10 &quot;Standard Method of Test for Surface Burning Characteristics of Building Materials&quot;. This fire testing standard was established by ASTM International (formerly known as American Society of Testing and Materials). A Class A fire rating using the ASTM test method is the equivalent of a Class A fire rating from the following test methods and agencies:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;ANSI/NFPA No 255 from the American National Standards Institute/National Fire &#xA;  Protection Association&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;IBC 8.1 from the International Building Code&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;UL 723 from Underwriters Laboratories&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T20:30:52.627" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4205" CreationDate="2016-06-07T00:31:20.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you show can certainly be accomplished, although it is a bit more challenging than simply nailing studs together.  To accomplish your design you will need a saw, drill, chisels and wood glue. The tenons on the vertical studs are simply cut with a saw. Mark the depth of the tenon around the four sides of the tenon first and cut them to the depth of the wast to remove and mark the extent of the tenon on the top and down the sides of the stud  and cut down on the outside of the line on all four sides.  Next mark the location of the through mortises on the top  plate and use a drill to remove the majority of the waste being careful to stay on the inside of the perimeter lines. Next use a chisel to clean out the mortise walls neat, again staying inside the lines.  Finally clean up the edges of both the mortise and tenons so that they slide together snugly.  I would use a waterproof glue to secure them together if the assembly will be outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;While drawing I realized the first stud can't go on the edge so that would take some thinking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This situation will also work, but instead of a square tenon, extend the mortise to the end of the top palate and modify the tenon accordingly.  A good glue job will hold the final stud in place just as well as if it were in a fully enclosed mortise.  In a worst case you  could add wood screw through the side to connect the two pieces and hold them in place (just remember to predrill the hole for the screw).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T00:31:20.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4205" CreationDate="2016-06-07T08:48:18.590" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;TL;DR warning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While using 'proper' joints is the way that some shed walls were constructed in the recent past* I think I should say something about why this isn't done as much today — because other ways are faster (&lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; faster) while still producing a structure that's fit for purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a strong parallel to be drawn with the way that a traditional timber-frame building was, and in some places still is, put together versus a modern house roof frame. The traditional timber frame uses various well-cut joints that intersect nearly perfectly, then often locked in place with pegs, and originally a house's roof frame would have featured some similar joints (derived as they were from trad timber framing practices). But today there's almost no actual joinery and we largely rely on metal hanging brackets, nails, screws and bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now it could be argued that the old way was better, producing stronger buildings that hold up better over time, but even if we accept that as a given there's no denying that the modern way produces structures that are &lt;em&gt;strong enough&lt;/em&gt;. And they can be made significantly stronger than the norm by just exceeding code (e.g. using more numerous and/or longer fasteners, screws instead of nails in certain places, using every hole formed in a joist fastener and not just the minimum required by the regs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my advice would be to go ahead with this sort of construction** only if you want to do it as an exercise in laying out and cutting of joints, for the pride in knowing how the shed was put together when you're done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if your primary goal here is merely to end up with a solid shed then be confident that modern metal fittings, galvanised nails or screws will produce a structure that's good enough, both in terms of strength and longevity. My parents' back garden had a shed in it that was taken down recently; it was made of softwood of indifferent quality as most sheds are over here are and was largely put together with staples (yes, staples) and yet it withstood plenty of bad weather, including two or three hurricanes, in the 30+ years it stood without losing its roof, being structurally undermined or even losing a single siding board. It was heavily weathered when it came time to take it down recently, with many loose boards and some rot. But it still had to be cut apart using a reciprocating saw! So build just a bit better than this and your grandchildren will be wondering what to do with the shed grandpa Snyder built way back in 2016 :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*For a bit of historical perspective, I have electronic copies of carpentry books dating from 1875 through to approximately the time of the First World War and looking through them just now &lt;em&gt;none&lt;/em&gt; show joinery used for stud wall construction that I could find. All the drawings appear to show basic butt-jointed timbers used throughout, presumably to be toenailed in place as is common practice today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**But not exactly what you've shown. The orientation of the wood in the rail in the Sketchup image doesn't make best use of the strength of the wood. It should be edge-up, not face-up, to best resist bending forces (maximising 'beam strength'). And with this orientation you wouldn't go ahead with your planned M&amp;amp;T joints, a better fit would be half-laps. You could use bridle joints as an option but they're more difficult to cut and probably provide no real improvement in strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T08:48:18.590" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4204" CreationDate="2016-06-07T09:09:38.020" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short wood is not the right material for this, I think you should re-think the requirements... coming to the inevitable conclusion that metal is very likely the way to go. Every fire-pit cover I can recall seeing was made from plate steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if I'm reading the following right you already have problems you'll need to address!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;a firepit made out of wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a reason barbecues and so forth are made from metal, brick or concrete, just sayin' ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T09:09:38.020" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4211" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4214" CreationDate="2016-06-07T11:28:33.820" Score="8" ViewCount="6412" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am borrowing a friend's &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toolpartsdirect.com/skil-1823-type-1-plunge-router-f012182300.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Skil 1823 Type 1 Plunge Router&lt;/a&gt;&quot;, and I am having some trouble removing the router bit that was already in it. Everything online has said that removing the collet nut should loosen (if not entirely remove) the bit while being unscrewed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried using a gloved hand, pliers, etc, but I can't seem to even get the old bit to budge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Am I missing something obvious? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I remove this old bit?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I prevent the same thing from happening with my new bit?**&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1zaFh.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1zaFh.png&quot; alt=&quot;image of stuck router bit in plunge router&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1191" LastActivityDate="2020-11-21T14:13:42.667" Title="How do I remove a stuck router bit from a plunge router?" Tags="|power-tools|router|tool-maintenance|router-bit|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4212" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4215" CreationDate="2016-06-07T14:40:48.043" Score="4" ViewCount="1180" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the last few years, we had some of those plastic $20 Adirondack chairs in the garden. Well, the sun got to them, and the plastic became brittle.. (my story, and I'm sticking to it!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I want to build some replacements, and I need to sound out an idea; for the parts of the chairs that are duplicated, like the side rails and arms, I plan to use some seasoned redwood 2x4's I have, by profiling the 2x4 (as usual, more 1/5&quot; x 3.5&quot;) in one piece, and then ripping down the middle to make two identical pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this work? Will 3/4&quot; be thick enough for the side rails and arms of the chair anyway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1889" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-06-08T03:35:17.223" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T07:43:02.743" Title="Use 3/4&quot; wood for Adirondack chair?" Tags="|technique|furniture|design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4205" CreationDate="2016-06-07T18:30:54.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that using the technique you have in the image will result in a weaker structure than using standard fasteners.  The wood between the mortises on the horizontal beam is unsupported.  Even if you glue the joint, you will have an end grain to edge grain joint, which is relatively weak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it would work for a small structure, it would not pass any current code without some sort of fastener to prevent the roof from being lifted off.  Nails are typically used instead of screws because they will bend rather than break when subject to lateral stress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T18:30:54.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4211" CreationDate="2016-06-07T20:58:29.840" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like the collet nut has been loosened completely, and since it's a narrow bit, has been slipped completely off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd follow &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4211/how-do-i-remove-a-stuck-router-bit-from-a-plunge-router#comment9624_4211&quot;&gt;keshlam's advice&lt;/a&gt; from his comment and &lt;em&gt;tap&lt;/em&gt; sideways &lt;em&gt;gently&lt;/em&gt; (this isn't the time to prove the Hulk is a weenie!) using a block of wood to protect the bit. You may have to tap in several directions to get it loosened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've got the old one out, ensure that there isn't a lot of sawdust jammed into the collet. Looking closely at your picture, I can see some faint tan lines through the collet where it is probably clogged with sawdust. If the bit's been left in there for quite a while, humidity will have settled into the sawdust and hardened it quite nicely. Clean out the collet as thoroughly as you can, using dental floss and a small pick if necessary to get the dust out. That should help prevent the new bit from getting stuck. I'd also recommend not keeping a bit in the collet to prevent it from happening again in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also possible, depending on how long the bit's been in there, and what conditions the router has been stored in, that there's a bit of rust binding the two together. If the tapping route doesn't fix it (though that should break the rust free, as well), a very light shot of penetrating oil (like WD-40) should help. If there's rust on the old bit when it comes out, that's likely your culprit. A few &lt;em&gt;very light&lt;/em&gt; touches with some emery cloth wrapped around a dowel (of smaller diameter than then bit's shaft) should get rid of the rust. &lt;strong&gt;CAUTION:&lt;/strong&gt; It's possible that you might make the collet too large by doing this, so you may want to leave that part for your friend to do when you return the router, so it's his problem to deal with if he sands too much. (Remember: I did say &lt;em&gt;very light&lt;/em&gt; touches!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T20:58:29.840" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4212" CreationDate="2016-06-08T01:45:52.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, 3/4&quot; thick should be just fine for the side rails and arms. It should be plenty sturdy and strong enough. I do not think there is much more to say to that....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T01:45:52.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4212" CreationDate="2016-06-08T07:43:02.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with the Answer already posted by Ljk2000 that 3/4&quot; material will probably prove sufficient. It's not ideal for every piece of an Adirondack but it should be good enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one additional concern however since you're ripping the wood down the centre (resawing as it's commonly referred to today), where there's a risk of the wood bending afterwards. Sometimes this happens because of stress in the wood being relieved and there's little to nothing you can do about that, it'll occur immediately after the wood is sawn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other times it's to do with unequal drying out of the two thinner pieces after cutting (because the original piece was slightly drier on the surface than in the interior) and this can be largely avoided. So I highly recommend after sawing that you immediately sticker the wood, with some heavy weights on top, and leave it for a couple of days minimum in your workshop to acclimate. &lt;em&gt;Do not&lt;/em&gt; let it sit flat on a benchtop, you can virtually guarantee problems if you do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T07:43:02.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4217" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4218" CreationDate="2016-06-08T10:20:50.013" Score="7" ViewCount="3886" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Preface:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm building a table for the garden and did some research into how I might seal and protect the most vulnerable parts of the table. The end-grain. The wood I have available is old(30+ years) and very dry larch-wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beside the steps one could take, that are already covered in various questions across this and other sites I stumbled upon a method that is called &quot;sizing&quot;. I hope I spelled that right. The sealing of end-grain is covered in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2305/do-i-need-to-seal-the-ends-of-hardwood-fence-boards&quot;&gt;'Do I need to seal the ends of hardwood fence boards?'&lt;/a&gt; and this here might be a duplicate to that question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Story:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While watching &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/user/stevinmarin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Steve Ramsey&lt;/a&gt;'s channel I stumbled over his video about '&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Esvb64fUQ10&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;What You Need to Know About Glue&lt;/a&gt;'. He also covers gluing end-grain (starting at ~5:20) and suggests making a &quot;sizing&quot;(at ~6:00), which is basically wood-glue mixed with some water to &quot;size&quot; the wood before the actual glue-up. To me it seems this sizing is just sealing up the end-grain pores with wood-glue. And the mixing with water is done so the thinner substance might penetrate deeper into the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thought now is that I will try to use this technique for the end-grain parts of my table (probably all of them) to close the pores and make it more durable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To achieve that I would put masking tape around the edges of the wood and soak the end-grain with my &quot;sizing&quot;. The masking tape would protect the surface of the wood from ugly glue-stains during the sizing. After all is dried up I would take off about half a millimeter (~1/64&quot;) with the table-saw/miter-saw for a smooth end and start to apply the actual finish everywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Question(s):&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory I think this method to be quite ingenious and am wondering why I haven't heard of it before. Or am I missing some fundamental problem with this here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How far will this sizing penetrate into the end-grain? (Of course that answer will probably be dependent on the density and type of the wood)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will this help preventing/delaying rot?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will the masking tape prevent the other faces to get ugly glue stains?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there any drawback with this method concerning the expansion and shrinkage of the wood? Which will probably be severe as  I plan to let the table sit outside all the time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2262" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2022-07-13T03:35:13.973" Title="Should I treat end-grain on garden table with wood glue?" Tags="|technique|glue|water-protection|end-grain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4217" CreationDate="2016-06-08T15:30:49.600" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He also covers gluing end-grain (starting at ~5:20) and suggests making a &amp;quot;seizing&amp;quot;(at ~6:00), which is basically wood-glue mixed with some water to &amp;quot;seize&amp;quot; the wood before the actual glue-up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's &amp;quot;sizing&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;size&amp;quot;, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/840/gluing-end-grain/851#851&quot;&gt;Gluing end-grain&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me it seems this seizing is just sealing up the end-grain pores with wood-glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yup, as you'll read in the above link that's exactly what it's doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the mixing with water is done so the thinner substance might penetrate deeper into the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How far will this seizing penetrate into the end-grain? (Of course that answer will probably be dependent on the density and type of the wood)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes it will depend on the type of wood, not its density but how absorbent it is. Red oak for example is much denser than pine but will absorb liquids &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; more deeply into end grain under normal circumstances because of its structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, size is normally relatively viscous so absorption should be expected to be fairly shallow, on the order of 2mm at best, which is very approximately 1/16&amp;quot;, but possibly as low as the 1/64&amp;quot; that you mention you plan to trim off so I wouldn't do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any anyway I wouldn't suggest you seal the end grain using dilute wood glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soaking finish into the end grain is much more commonly done, but a superior alternative is to coat it with epoxy. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rockler.com/learn/how-to-weatherproof-outdoor-furniture&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Weatherproof Outdoor Furniture by Curing It with an Epoxy Coat&lt;/a&gt; on Rockler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this help preventing/delaying rot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, that's exactly what this is for. By preventing water penetrating deeply into the wood at the end grain (which is far and away the most absorbent surface on any wood) it will greatly slow deterioration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the masking tape prevent the other faces to get ugly glue stains?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. As you'll see on the Rockler link using tape is exactly what they recommend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any drawback with this method concerning the expansion and shrinkage of the wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;More details&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The Rockler link suggests straight epoxy applied directly to the end grain but that's not always the best idea as epoxies vary in their viscosity. It's best to have an epoxy that's quite thin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the epoxy you're using doesn't have the desired flowing consistency its viscosity can be lowered by two main methods: adding solvent or heating. The usual solvents mentioned are an alcohol of some kind, usually denatured alcohol (DA) in North America, or acetone. Note: diluting epoxy does affect its final strength, but for this it shouldn't be a big deal (especially if you don't overdo it, and only a little solvent will be needed to get to the right consistency).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to use heating you can gently heat the separate hardener and resin, or the mixed batch, using a hairdryer or a heat gun. You'll see it immediately makes the epoxy much more fluid. If doing this it's also worth heating the end grain because as it cools it will suck the epoxy deeper into the pores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="12340" LastEditDate="2022-07-13T03:35:13.973" LastActivityDate="2022-07-13T03:35:13.973" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4068" CreationDate="2016-06-08T19:07:45.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, if you put a piece of scrap lumber on the outside of the piece you are cutting with the router before you put it in the jig clamp (I'm guessing it is a clamp system as I do not own such a jig) it will stop tear out due to slight variations in the router bit path due to controlling it by hand. What this does is instead of the tear out occurring on the good piece of stock, it happens on the scrap instead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tear out only happens on unsupported fibers when you try cutting them. And 1/4 inch plywood will not stop it on your good stock due to how plywood is constructed. It happens no matter if you use a muscle powered or an electric powered tool. You might try surface planing down some scrap 1x's to around 3/8&quot; and it may work better than plywood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want an easy primer on this, get on YouTube and look up Paul Sellar's woodworking channel. He does everything the old fashioned way but he is a wonderful teacher about explaining why he does things the way he does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2347" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-06-08T19:28:54.713" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T19:28:54.713" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4220" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4221" CreationDate="2016-06-08T21:15:21.130" Score="4" ViewCount="688" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently building a set of templates for an Adirondack chair, and have come across a problem that will jump out once I start to use the patterns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the back of the chair, the rail needs to be cut at a 6° angle, so that it matches the angle that the rear of the chair is at. How would I set up the router so that I can get this angle correct? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to do as much with the router and patterns as I can, because if I use the band saw, I'd have a variance in the final cuts - I want to be as consistent as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1889" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2016-06-13T19:35:30.507" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T19:35:30.507" Title="Follow pattern at an angle with router?" Tags="|technique|router|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4220" CreationDate="2016-06-09T03:04:57.750" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many (most?) adirondack chair designs have flat backs rather than curved backs, making the cuts for that back bar relatively simple since it is just a bevel cut across the edge of a straight board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you mentioned wanting to use a router at an angle, you can get tilt bases for most compact/trim routers. Since you're only talking a few degrees, you could also make a slanted base for a larger router, but if you needed to tilt significantly (e.g., 30 or 45 degrees) the broader base of the larger router would interfere and you would need a much longer bit in order to make the same cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a few additional options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Table saw with the blade tilted&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Router table with angled auxiliary tabletop&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jointer with fence tilted&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bandsaw with table tilted&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hand plane&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2016-06-09T03:11:14.840" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T03:11:14.840" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4222" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4224" CreationDate="2016-06-09T09:39:23.150" Score="13" ViewCount="765" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been diligently cleaning my paintbrushes after use by rinsing them in the recommended solvent (in this case mineral turpentine). Nonetheless, this last time my paintbrush hardened into a solid block of bristles, which caused me to question my understanding of paintbrush care. I'm going to try and &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3258/i-polyed-my-paintbrush-then-procrastination-left-me-in-a-predicament&quot;&gt;salvage my paintbrush&lt;/a&gt;, but in order to avoid this happening again: How do I properly care for my paintbrushes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, I use my paintbrushes for applying varnish, however care for both paint and varnish (if there's any difference) would probably be most useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2251" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T15:41:00.350" Title="How do I properly care for my paintbrushes?" Tags="|paint|tool-maintenance|varnish|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4222" CreationDate="2016-06-09T13:46:16.890" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cleaning starts before you use them.  Get the brush fully wet with whatever solvent your finish requires (water, mineral spirits, etc).  This will help prevent finish from drawing up into the tang of the brush.  Clean the brush immediately after use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For water based finishes, wash with warm water and soap (I use dish soap such as Dawn).  Work the soap into the bristles well. Plan on at least two wash/rinse cycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For non water based finishes, do an initial clean with your solvent working into the bristles with your fingers.  After this initial cleaning, repeat the process with another container of clean solvent.  I usually follow this up by washing with soap and water, although some manufacturers say this is not necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For either type, a brush comb will help with the cleaning.  Once the brush is clean, form up the bristles neatly and allow them to dry without any pressure on them so they remain straight.  Use the original sleeve that came with the brush to keep it clean in storage.  I typically wrap my brushes in a paper towel while they are drying to keep shop dust from settling on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you use solvent to clean your brushes, don't throw away the dirty solvent.  After a few days the finish will settle to the bottom of the container, and the good solvent can be drained off and used again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, don't use the same brush for water based finishes as you use for solvent based finishes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T13:46:16.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4222" CreationDate="2016-06-09T15:41:00.350" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;TL;DR warning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rinsing is, usually, only the first step in brush cleaning. Many paints and varnishes will state on the label that brushes should be washed after use and if this advice is followed properly you'll never have a brush dry stiff or hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't need to beat yourself up about your brush having dried hard, it has happened to almost everyone at least once.... and for some it's a regular occurrence. I've rarely handled brushes other people have cleaned (and this includes numerous commercial painters) and not found them at least slightly stiff! Many have been much worse than this. Brush cleaning is a time-consuming and frankly boring task that comes at the end of the process where folks are already tired and want to just be done with it so it's very common for people to do a half-assed job. I'm guilty of this myself and I bet nearly everyone has been too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you thought you were rinsing the brush well you probably weren't using enough solvent, so in effect dilute varnish was left distributed uniformly through the brush head. The solvent container should be quite large in relation to the size of the brush for effective rinsing, as you want the dilution rate to be high. In practice this means that for a 100mm (4&quot;) brush you should be rinsing in &lt;em&gt;something the size of a small bucket&lt;/em&gt;. Personally I think that even a small finish brush shouldn't be rinsed in less than 500ml of solvent, and going up to a litre wouldn't hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In my case, I use my paintbrushes for applying varnish, however care for both paint and varnish (if there's any difference) would probably be most useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No effective difference. Although with paint it's much easier to see how successfully we've cleaned a brush since any paint remaining will stain the drying paper/cloth at the penultimate step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The proper traditional method&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Rinsing is just one step of a multi-step process in the traditional method, but it's not actually step one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wipe the brush as clean of paint or finish before you rinse. It's counter-productive to contaminate your rinsing solvent with a large volume of finish when you can so easily remove a large amount of it by simply wiping the brush dry beforehand.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rinse in solvent. This does not merely mean swishing the brush back and forth in the liquid, you should press the brush out on the bottom or sides of the container to fan the bristles out and help the solvent get between them. Rinse a bit, wipe the brush against the rim, rinse a bit more, wipe. Do this a few times.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dry out the brush on paper or cloth (it won't end up dry, you're just soaking out excess).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rinse again as above.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dry the brush as thoroughly as possible on more clean, dry paper towels or cloths.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Now you wash the brush in &lt;em&gt;warm&lt;/em&gt; soapy water, splaying the bristles out in the palm of your hand or against the base of the sink, working up a good lather, and then rinse thoroughly. I can't stress how much difference warm water makes here. You can use cold where and when necessary, but warm water makes the job much much easier. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the soap a block of basic hand soap is fine, also dish soap/wash-up liquid or liquid hand cleanser can be used, it doesn't make that much difference with coarse-bristled brushes and makes zero difference with synthetic brushes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Repeat the washing if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Once you've thoroughly washed and rinsed the brush the bristles should be squeaky clean. Re-form the brush head and put it aside to dry. Flat, hanging tip-down or in a jar with the bristles pointing up generally makes no difference any more, but if you want to err on the side of caution hang them or dry flat.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Phew! You're probably tired just reading that, any wonder nobody wants to do this properly on each and every brush used every single time? And it's no joke, cleaning a few brushes really well this way can take the guts of an hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; when using the brush for solvent-based paint the brush should be absolutely dry before you use it again and overnight drying is often not enough. It's fine to use a slightly damp brush again if using a waterbased finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Solvent only&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can clean a brush perfectly well using solvent only. The reason most don't do this is because of the amount of solvent required, and the space the containers take. Re. the note above in the traditional method about the amount of solvent, for this method to work well you'll need at least a couple of litres and again, more would not hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For oil-based varnish I would use &lt;em&gt;at minimum&lt;/em&gt; two rinsing containers, but three or more is better. Some people use as many as five and report that it does make a difference. Personally I doubt if you're doing it right that more than three is necessary, but a fourth could be added for security.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wipe the brush dry first.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rinse in container one and dry out the brush as described above.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now do at least two rinse cycles in the second container.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dry again and rinse well in the third container. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dry off the brush and re-form it into shape and put it aside to dry. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This time it's okay if the brush is still slightly damp when you go to use it again as it's damp with the right solvent, and you'll probably want to dampen it before use anyway (see related point at bottom below the separator).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To monitor how well you're rinsing out the brush the solvent in the third container should remain clear, without any tinge of yellow, nearly indefinitely (literally years if you're not cleaning brushes on a regular basis). If it does start to become yellowed it is not the end of the world, but it indicates you should be being a little more scrupulous in the preceding steps or that you're not using a sufficient volume of solvent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you conscientiously use either of the above methods well your brushes will last and last — I have numerous brushes that are over ten years old and still going strong. But that's nothing, many professional finishers and painters report that they have brushes that are 20-50 years old o_O&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Preloading the brush with solvent&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The tip given in the answer by LeeG of moistening the brush prior to loading it with the paint or shellac/varnish is one given in a few good guides to finishing. The primary reason to do this is that it's an aid in smooth brushing, it helps the finish flow out from the brush (and it is excellent at this). A second reason that might be given is that it helps with rinsing out the brush afterwards (note that the longer you paint the less help this is, particularly with fast-drying finishes). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some guides may give both or just one of the above reasons, and may go on to state that it helps prevent the paint from wicking up into the base of the bristles inside the ferrule but they're completely wrong on this, &lt;em&gt;it actually has the reverse effect in practice&lt;/em&gt;. This should be perfectly logical, thin liquids wick much better than thick liquids. But if anyone has doubts try comparison tests and see for yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to help prevent finish getting up into the ferrule is to never load the brush more than halfway up the bristles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T15:41:00.350" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4225" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4230" CreationDate="2016-06-09T16:10:11.097" Score="5" ViewCount="1106" Body="&lt;p&gt;What join to use to join four 2X4 wood pieces together for a pedestal as in the picture?&#xA;Here is what is going on in my mind. Need some help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Just glue them together - would not be strong..&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cut a rabbet vertically and slide them in - rabbet along the grain&#xA;may not be strong as well.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Drill 5/8&quot; holes in them and use circular hardwood dowels - current&#xA;solution in mind - need to know if it is a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I chose 2X4s because of the thought to join them with circular hardwood dowels.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I can switch to 2X6s as well if someone can suggest a stronger joint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would be a pedestal for my Pedestal table(my first wood working project)&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tximq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tximq.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2349" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T19:59:35.277" Title="What join to use to join 2X4s for a pedestal" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4225" CreationDate="2016-06-09T16:46:15.030" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you have a smooth glue surface, and the boards are jointed so there aren't any gaps, glue should be plenty strong enough, since you're gluing long grain to long grain in the sketch you included.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dowels or a rabbet would mainly help with alignment while you're performing the glue-up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, just a note - 2x4s are actually 1.5&quot; x 3.5&quot;, unless they are labelled as rough cut, or &quot;true 2x4&quot;. You may have to rip/joint an additional 1/8&quot; off of each side and end up with a 1.5&quot; x 3.25&quot; board, both for removing the round-over at the corner, and for ensuring you have a perfectly straight board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T16:46:15.030" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3908" CreationDate="2016-06-10T02:02:18.393" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a grapefruit segmenter&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00KRFJJYQ&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/Grapefruit-Segmenter-Slicer-Wooden-Handle/dp/B00KRFJJYQ?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;em&gt;Version&lt;/em&gt;=1&amp;amp;&lt;em&gt;entries&lt;/em&gt;=0&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2352" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T02:02:18.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4225" CreationDate="2016-06-10T04:37:07.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Biscuit jointing would be a good candidate. You'll need a biscuit jointer, some biscuits, and glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using glue, if you have the correct glue on the right surface, the glue joint is stronger than the wood holding it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1889" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T04:37:07.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4225" CreationDate="2016-06-10T06:29:48.750" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Welcome to the Woodworking Stack-Exchange!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Just glue them together - would not be strong..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be plenty strong. As @Pete mentioned in his answer the glue joint is stronger than the wood it's holding together. That is, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you can apply &lt;strong&gt;enough clamp pressure&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have &lt;strong&gt;smooth surfaces&lt;/strong&gt; before gluing them together. A jointer, planes or just sanding helps in that regard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The type of wood plays a role as well, though if you only use 2x4s from the hardware store like fir, spruce or something alike you should be good.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you mentioned that this is your first woodworking project, my guess is, you don't have a jointer or other fancy power tools that would ease up the creation. Hand-planes are not too expensive though and you can achieve satisfactory results with them (and a little patience, practice and perseverance) as well. If those aren't an option either, make sure the surfaces that are glued together are as straight and clean as possible by sanding them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cut a rabbet vertically and slide them in - rabbet along the grain may not be strong as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the rabbet would give the joint even more strength, as well as help you align it and avoid slipping when you glue it up. Gluing long-grain is what you actually want to do as it is considered a strong bond when gluing. For more details on different grains and their strength in glue joints please refer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4233/what-are-the-different-grain-directions-and-how-do-they-affect-joint-strength&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Drill 5/8&quot; holes in them and use circular hardwood dowels&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do this in addition to gluing, that would provide a pretty strong joint that wouldn't come apart any time soon, but in my opinion a severe overkill. Also worth mentioning with this approach is that it can either be optically disturbing, or a really beautiful addition to your piece as the dowels will stand out (in color) quite a bit after you've applied a finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Good Sources on the Web&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All these points above are valid from 2x4s up to 2x10s or even bigger stock I think. I suggest you watch a video by Steve Ramsey about '&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Esvb64fUQ10&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;What You Need to Know About Glue | WWMM BASICS&lt;/a&gt;'. A &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodgears.ca/joint_strength/glue.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;great article&lt;/a&gt; describing all sorts of stuff that can be done with glue and how strong which bonds are, is from Mathias Wandel (woodgears.ca).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your approach in general&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While having strong bonds and sound joints makes a lot of sense, I think you should ask yourself how strong your joint really &lt;em&gt;needs&lt;/em&gt; to be. If I understand your project correctly you're planning on putting something on top of your pedestal, which would only put pressure from the top of the piece. If that is the case, strictly speaking some nails to connect the pieces would suffice as there will be no forces exerted from the sides and the joints don't necessarily need to be that strong. This is of course not beautiful and one wouldn't do something like that for a decorative piece :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2262" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T19:59:35.277" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4225" CreationDate="2016-06-10T06:47:57.717" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Just glue them together - would not be strong..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Would&lt;/em&gt; be strong. I doubt very much you'd be able to break it apart with your hands if you do the joints right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Drill 5/8&quot; holes in them and use circular hardwood dowels - current solution in mind - need to know if it is a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes that would reinforce the joints hugely. Even with a hammer you wouldn't be able to take the joint apart without breaking the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there are a couple of better ways of doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main weakness of the pedestal as shown is the exposed end grain. This is both aesthetically less pleasing and potentially a weakness depending on what the pedestal is for (not really a problem for indoors though). So it's better to use a mitre joint of some kind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tpPop.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tpPop.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Quadrilinear leg sections&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above image is for what's called a quadrilinear leg (intended to show quarter-sawn figure on all four faces) but obviously the same joints can be spaced apart to produce a post such as you're making.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately the best of these, the lock-mitre joint at the right, requires a specialist router bit sized to the thickness of stock you're using. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A plain mitre joint, the option at left, doesn't glue as strongly as we'd like as it's end-grain to end-grain, but it's the simplest to produce by far and reinforced in some way it's strong enough for many applications. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reinforcing it can be simply a matter of hammering in some nails/brads or spacing a few screws. The screw heads would obviously be very visible so if desired they can be hidden by counter-boring and using wooden plugs, which can become a decorative feature (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3612/what-joining-methods-would-be-best-for-the-legs-and-other-areas-of-a-height-adju/3613#3613&quot;&gt;previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can achieve much the same look and nearly the same strength by drilling through the mitre and glueing in dowels. In either case, screws or through-dowelled, the mitre joint should be glued up and left to fully cure before doing any drilling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T06:47:57.717" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3936" CreationDate="2016-06-10T18:17:14.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;They're frequently used to plane doors (for fitment), they're much faster than sanding, and don't require the precise setting up needed to trim with a circular saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The finish they leave is not incredible, but not bad to get prettied up.  They're also very good at making showers of sparks and bad, bad sounds when you hit an embedded nail. For better results, tie a magnet to a string and dangle it over the area to be planed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2354" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2016-06-13T18:49:45.307" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T18:49:45.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4200" CreationDate="2016-06-11T07:04:07.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hesitate to put this as an Answer because I'm not sure of the details but it ran too long for a Comment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without a real furniture expert (and it appears we don't currently have one among the members of this SE) I don't think you'll get a definitive origin for this piece. But it looks European or done by a craftsman working in the tradition of the country they came from in Europe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My gut says it's maybe northern Italian or from the Tyrol perhaps, but it may turn out to be Swiss or from NE France. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In appearance it's quite old but that can often be intentionally faked of course, sometimes just for style reasons (reproductions), but more nefariously something can be deliberately made in an old style and 'aged' so that it appears to be antique (a practice that goes back centuries).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well as that storage conditions can accelerate the appearance of age, for example storing in the dark can yellow old varnishes significantly (they recover somewhat when placed in a sunny spot for a few hours), and being in a room with smokers for a decade or two can &lt;em&gt;greatly&lt;/em&gt; darken a piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know that there's a name for the style except to say that it's &quot;curvilinear&quot;, so it might be described as &quot;a bow-topped curvilinear cabinet with marquetry door featuring a woodcutter&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For dating, I'd hazard a guess of the second half of the 19th century, but bear the previous comments about faux age in mind. I should add that the brightness of the escutcheon and the hinges bothers me, and makes me think this might be a lot younger than first appearances, although they could quite easily be later replacements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-06-11T07:04:07.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4233" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4240" CreationDate="2016-06-11T12:58:09.727" Score="13" ViewCount="9394" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the differences between edge grain, face grain, and long grain (and why not throw end grain in there while we're at it)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And which of these grain directions results in the strongest glue joints?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastEditorUserId="38" LastEditDate="2016-06-12T14:00:24.717" LastActivityDate="2021-09-11T11:41:50.223" Title="What are the different grain directions, and how do they affect joint strength?" Tags="|joinery|end-grain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4234" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-11T22:26:25.363" Score="7" ViewCount="1770" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went lumber shopping for my first wood working project - Pedestal dining table (See picture)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QvdvT.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QvdvT.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ngfNK.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ngfNK.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found that the prices vary wildly and am having a hard time choosing one because I don't know what is sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my table, the cost of lumber for everything except for the table top are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Walnut  = 16 BF * $11.50 = $184&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cherry  = 16 BF * $6.30 = $101&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Red Oak = 16 BF * $4.81 = $77&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks wise, I like all three. Walnut hits beyond my budget. My questions specifically are : &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is Cherry a good choice for a dining table?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How does it compare to Walnut in terms of strength or any other advantages I don't know of?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other suggestions on the design are welcome as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2349" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T07:37:29.813" Title="Cherry wood for dining table - Strong enough or should I consider Walnut?" Tags="|wood-selection|design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4234" CreationDate="2016-06-11T23:49:51.380" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is that all three woods are similar in strength and woodworkers use all of them for projects similar to your proposed project. I would choose the wood based upon the appearance desired (color and grain of the selected pieces).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make another point, depending upon where in the country you are, the prices you have may be a bit steep.  Cruise the internet for wholesale suppliers or hardwood lumber mills.  I get my material (Ohio) from a mill yard that produces hardwoods for the furniture industry, but they keep a small showroom for woodworkers with a wide selection of regional hardwoods. Prices are about 2/3 to 3/4 the costs you indicate. It's about an hour's drive away, but well worth the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-06-13T07:33:39.420" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T07:33:39.420" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4234" CreationDate="2016-06-12T06:53:11.547" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cherry wood for dining table - Strong enough or should I consider Walnut?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SPF (spruce, pine, fir) would be strong enough! That should pretty much tell you all you need to know here :-) People underestimate the innate strengths of wood all the time so don't worry, you're not alone in this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you pass the consideration for &lt;em&gt;strong enough&lt;/em&gt; you can then pick the wood based on other factors. Cost is probably the starting point for most of us, but durability&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt; and aesthetics should perhaps be the primary concerns past that. They don't necessarily have to be considered in that order, given that a great many woods pass the standard for strong enough and durable enough (including softwoods) it could really be said to be all about looks at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is Cherry a good choice for a dining table?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. Many many existing tables are made from cherry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How does it compare to Walnut in terms of strength or any other advantages I don't know of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not as robust, but not by a large margin. Walnut typically should be tougher — published Janka hardnesses for black walnut and American cherry (Prunus serotina) are 1,010 and 950 respectively and other numbers for walnut are higher too. Red oak would in general be the hardest of the three&lt;sup&gt;[2]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Looks wise, I like all three. Walnut hits beyond my budget. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if you'd thought of it but consider going with walnut for the top and something cheaper for the base. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mixing species is now relatively common and both functionally and aesthetically can work well. Here if you went with a painted base for example it could be made from 2x material for all anyone would know looking at the completed table! But if you'd really prefer hardwood just plain old poplar is a great choice, for a good saving in materials, allowing for your no. 1 pick for the top which is of course the most on-show part of a table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In case it's of help:&lt;/strong&gt; do remember to factor in wood movement with how the tabletop will be attached to the cruciform arms coming out of the pillar. The fastenings that go into the arms at right angles to the grain in the top must allow for the top to expand and contract with changes in internal moisture content through the year. If needed, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/908/what-general-considerations-do-i-need-to-take-into-account-for-wood-movement/910#910&quot;&gt;What general considerations do I need to take into account for wood movement?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1] Factor in expected or known use, don't merely go by how tough the wood is on paper since many soft or weak woods are of course perfectly acceptable for given uses where durability is of lesser concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[2] Red oak actually has many subspecies and their numbers vary widely from one to another. So just buying the wood as &quot;red oak&quot; as you're almost always forced to do doesn't tell you the full story about how strong the wood can be expected to be. But broadly speaking it is the hardest of the three and it can be outright the strongest across the board, just not always.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T07:37:29.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4237" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4239" CreationDate="2016-06-12T10:41:32.010" Score="5" ViewCount="2259" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought some pine the other day and it has this yellow stain on the end:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/14C1A.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/14C1A.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sanded off the yellow before using the pine, but now I wonder what it was and if that was the right thing to do. So what exactly is the yellow stain on the endgrain of the pine I bought?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2251" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2016-06-12T13:48:37.133" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T13:48:37.133" Title="What is the yellow stain on the end of this pine I bought?" Tags="|lumber|pine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4237" CreationDate="2016-06-12T12:11:52.633" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lumber mills mark their boards with different colors to quickly identify them. Generally you'd cut off the end of a board after ripping it to get a nice square end. Sanding works too but is a lot of work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T12:11:52.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4237" CreationDate="2016-06-12T13:11:38.370" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The paint isn't only used to identify the wood boards by lumber yards, but it's also used to seal of the end grain to slow down the drying process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Because exposed pores or tracheids on the end-grain surfaces promote too-rapid drying and result in checks, it is wise to coat the ends of boards to slow the moisture loss from the end grain. Almost any impervious material will do. Wet wood can receive a primer of acrylic latex paint first. Aluminum paint, oil paint even melted paraffin will seal the wood. Coat the ends as soon as possible after sawing to minimize end checks. In wood such as beech, checking can begin in a matter of hours. Oak is also quite susceptible. Once checking occurs, the damage is done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: Christian Becksvoort (2013), &lt;em&gt;With the grain : A craftsman's Guide to Understanding Wood&lt;/em&gt;, p.99&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T13:11:38.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4233" CreationDate="2016-06-12T16:24:33.357" Score="11" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Update, September 2021&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We might need to re-learn what we thought we knew about the strength of glue joints..... see &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m7HxBa9WVis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Glue Myths: 1. End grain&lt;/a&gt; from Patrick Sullivan on YouTube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spoiler alert: &lt;strong&gt;end grain | end grain joints appear to be the STRONGEST!!!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this turns out to be conclusively proven by further testing and experimentation it will make for some very interesting speculation about how everyone (?) got this so spectacularly wrong, so consistently, and for so long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edge and face gain are both &lt;em&gt;longitudinal grain&lt;/em&gt;, where grain runs along the surface. Long grain = longitudinal grain, just less of a mouthful, much easier to type quickly too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The structure of wood, its grain, can be visualised as being like a bundle of straws tightly packed and bonded together. In longitudinal grain we're seeing the side of the straws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;End grain is anywhere where the cut exposes the ends of the straws. So the two ends of nearly every board has exposed end grain. Many diagonal cuts in wood also expose end grain, but the shallower the angle of the cut the more it involves longitudinal grain (this is why very shallow angles are chosen for scarf joints, to maximise glue surface area as well as increase the innate strength of the glue joint).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are in essence three gluing situations in woodworking:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;long grain bonded to long grain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;end grain bonded to end grain (as in a classic mitre joint)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;long grain bonded to end grain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Long grain | long grain&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;All long-grain to long-grain joints (regardless if face to face or edge to edge, or a combination of the two as in some 90° joints) should be the strongest possible glue joint, if done well exceeding the strength of the wood. So a fairly well-worn adage of woodworking &amp;quot;creates joints stronger than the wood itself&amp;quot; can literally be true&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The glue industry's own testing, independent lab tests and any well-run test done in the workshop will invariable show this, where if a piece is broken apart you can expect that splits will largely happen in the wood and will essentially ignore the joint lines&lt;sup&gt;[2]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;End grain | end grain&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;End-grain to end-grain joints are the weakest glue joint. They can be made much more secure by very good surface preparation and by &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/840/gluing-end-grain/851#851&quot;&gt;sizing&lt;/a&gt; the end grain ahead of final assembly, but in general for any joint requiring good strength simply gluing together end grain won't be strong enough&lt;sup&gt;[3]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Visualising the grain in wood as being like straws and end grain as being like the ends of these straws helps explain why it bonds poorly normally, because those open ends of the straws are very absorbent and capillary action transports glue away from the surface, leaving too little behind to form a good bond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What sizing does is seal or partially seal the straws, preventing over-absorption of the glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Long grain | end grain&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Long-grain to end-grain joints are naturally somewhere in between the above two. They were/are considered fairly weak, and woodworking guides will nearly often say that they need to be reinforced in some way — by nails, screws or dowels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without reinforcement they can be too weak to rely on &lt;em&gt;in isolation&lt;/em&gt;, but, if done properly (which would involve sizing the end grain prior to final glue-up) they can actually be strong enough in some situations without any mechanical reinforcement, e.g. because other joints in the piece will help hold things in place and everything mutually supports itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt; This is sometimes erroneously expressed as &amp;quot;glue is stronger than the wood itself&amp;quot; which is not strictly accurate. In general it is only &lt;em&gt;the glued joint&lt;/em&gt; that is stronger, NOT the glue, and it's important to bear this in mind so that you don't make the mistake of expecting glue to support gaps &amp;quot;because it's strong&amp;quot; (usually it's not). Epoxy if one of the few glues commonly used by leisure woodworkers where you can rely on it to fill gaps strongly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;[2]&lt;/sup&gt; Because this is so universally shown to be true it can be used as an acid test of gluing procedures by any woodworker. If in their testing the glue joints fails they can be confident that either they've done something wrong, or the glue is at fault. Possible causes of a weaker long-grain to long-grain joint include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The wood not being smooth enough — rougher surfaces don't normally bond well with most glues used in woodworking, a notable exception being epoxy. As a rule you want &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; smooth surfaces on your wood for the best glue joint, smooth &lt;em&gt;but not burnished&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The joint faces are not flat enough, e.g. the angle is off so the edges don't make good contact along their entire length.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insufficient clamp pressure. With most wood glues you want to clamp hard enough that all excess glue is squeezed from the joint, which in practice means you want to clamp &lt;em&gt;very firmly&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glue is too thin.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glue is too thick (too dry).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glue has has 'gone off' in some way, by being frozen or because it's aged.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not enough glue was applied (an excess of glue should &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; be applied for maximum bond strength).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Another cause is just a failing of procedure, so that even with perfectly jointed wood and new glue you don't get a good joint. The classic reason for this is where glue was applied but then the joint wasn't brought together in time, so the glue dried out too much to form an adequate bond (either to the other piece of wood or to the glue already applied to the other piece of wood).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;[3]&lt;/sup&gt; This is not to say that end-grain to end-grain joints are never strong enough. The classic small box has mitre joints on all four corners and because of the small size and the lack of stress on the structure of the piece these joints can be perfectly acceptable and are in fact widely used. But once a box needs to hold any major weight or needs to be robust enough to withstand lots of movement or rough handling then either the mitres need to be reinforced (e.g. with a spline) other joints should be used instead (e.g. finger joints/comb joints, box joints or dovetails).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2021-09-07T14:41:19.250" LastActivityDate="2021-09-07T14:41:19.250" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4241" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4244" CreationDate="2016-06-13T03:03:46.313" Score="7" ViewCount="839" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to use my router table as a jointer since I can not afford the cost of a jointer itself. What modifications would I need to do to the router fence (maybe?) to make it work the best. Is there an easy way to set the bit to the right depth? (I was thinking that you would put a piece of wood on the body, then the blade would cut a little in, would that work?) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="2262" LastEditDate="2016-06-13T13:06:57.530" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T17:43:00.083" Title="Can I turn my router table into a jointer?" Tags="|jointer|router-table|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4242" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4243" CreationDate="2016-06-13T03:07:15.267" Score="5" ViewCount="9421" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some really long router bits from my second favorite router bit company that have straights with blades from 2 to 3 inches long. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is that safe in any way? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it more of a thing where as a part of the bit dulls you move it down or up? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can you use the whole thing (like for flattening a side of the board) and it will not bend? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would love to get the bit for that purpose like the 2 inch for flattening the sides but I am not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2016-06-15T17:06:52.743" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T17:06:52.743" Title="Is a long router bit safe?" Tags="|router-bit|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4242" CreationDate="2016-06-13T03:14:09.400" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;1/2 inch or 1/4 inch? I'd generally avoid really long bits in a 1/4&quot; chuck for fear of deflection and maybe even breakage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, 1/2&quot;, with &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; small amounts of stock removed are perfectly fine. I'll often use pairs of 2&quot; cutters (one with a bearing; one plain) to put a flat surface on 3-1/2&quot; stock. (Corbels and stuff like that.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T03:14:09.400" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4241" CreationDate="2016-06-13T05:22:22.367" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that could work, but I've seen a (imo) better way done by the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kGAwhKsTsjM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Samurai Carpenter on Youtube&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Plane-your-wood-slabs-with-a-Planing-Sled-that-you/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;instructable&lt;/a&gt; for such a sled. \o/ &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0yiJX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0yiJX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image from the instructable, added by user robot-six&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(Image from instructables.com, made by user &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/member/robot-six/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;robot-six&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He attaches guides on either side of the board that is to be planed/jointed and builds himself a sled for his router with which he subsequently takes many passes over the board to make the board's surface flat. I recommend watching it though for my answer to make easier sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While using the router table would work similarly as his method, i think you would still need the screwed in/glued on guides on both sides. The downside of using the table is that you don't see what you are planing/jointing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What modifications would I need to do to the router fence (maybe?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None at the fence as you build a secondary fence attached to your piece of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there an easy way to set the bit to the right depth?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes and no. You would search for the high-point of your piece and set the router to take away only a little bit, probably 2 mm (1/16th of an inch). Then you would increase the depth step by step for little increments until the piece is flat. Drawing a raster onto the wood with a pencil helps to see what has already been taken away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: I think in this application both terms, planing and jointing are valid as you would joint the first side and make them co-planar on the second side after the board is flipped. Please correct me if I'm wrong on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2262" LastEditorUserId="2262" LastEditDate="2016-06-13T05:54:52.060" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T05:54:52.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4246" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-13T14:38:57.480" Score="5" ViewCount="3576" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have several teak folding deck chairs to restore. Some screws in a sheath(?) are missing. I took a complete sample to a local, national brand tool and hardware store. The store did not stock it and had no advice on where to find it. I left without asking exactly what to call this multi-part screw as I continue my search. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See picture the pictures below&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1WodN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1WodN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;folding-deck-chair-screw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What am I looking for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2359" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-06-13T16:08:34.550" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T16:08:34.550" Title="Can you identify the screws used in my folding chairs" Tags="|screws|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4246" CreationDate="2016-06-13T15:13:43.717" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's called either a 'Sex Bolt' or a 'Binding Post Bolt'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a page with some - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.grainger.com/category/ecatalog/N-1z0dryp&quot;&gt;https://www.grainger.com/category/ecatalog/N-1z0dryp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1889" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T15:13:43.717" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4248" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-14T02:46:12.810" Score="6" ViewCount="9379" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Background&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a very much a beginner, and I have been trying to make a long (3.6m) pelmet. (It is not a pelmet box - it goes from wall to wall, and hangs from the ceiling.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attempt #1 was with a single piece of pineboard that was delivered with a mild warp (mainly twist with a touch of cupping). I let it sit for a couple of weeks inside before  got around to painting it, but I didn't take any active measures to flatten it first - I thought it wouldn't be noticeable once it was mounted up high and painted the same colour as the walls and ceiling. I was &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; wrong, and think I have to abandon it and start again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Attempt #2, I am thinking of trying MDF instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;MDF Stability&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen suggestions here that MDF is less likely to be warped (as long as it is kept dry):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1582/how-can-i-deal-with-wood-from-diy-stores-that-is-crooked-and-may-or-may-not-be-d/1586#1586&quot;&gt;How can I deal with wood from DIY stores that is crooked and may or may not be dry?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;chipboard (aka particle board) and MDF are considered dimensionally stable and will not warp with changes in humidity&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but I've also seen counter-examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3567/how-to-flatten-mdf-board&quot;&gt;How to flatten MDF board&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3577/are-my-sheet-good-storage-methods-warping-my-boards&quot;&gt;Is vertical storage of sheet goods causing my boards to warp?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I right in saying, if I buy some MDF from a hardware store, it is much more likely to be flat than ordering pineboard from a timberyard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2362" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T07:55:50.333" Title="Does MDF warp less than pineboards?" Tags="|mdf|warp|pine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4248" CreationDate="2016-06-14T03:20:58.827" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;MDF is much more likely to be flat and is relatively dimensionally stable - however it's not overly strong when running long unsupported distances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the pelmet is attached at its top along the length then it should be fine. If you plan on only attaching it at the ends it will probably sag over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(...usual concerns about formaldehyde off-gassing and MDF dust go here...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="282" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T03:20:58.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4248" CreationDate="2016-06-14T07:55:50.333" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;MDF is practically purpose-made for this application. It is very dimensionally stable, one of its prime selling points. And while it's not as stiff or strong as ply it is as a rule more stable these days (because of the falling standard of plywood, while MDF is easier to make to a reasonable standard consistently).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As often mentioned MDF can bow under its own weight (a point regularly used with glee by its detractors). But that is when it is used flat as in a shelf, not edge-up. When it's oriented vertically it is much stronger and far less likely to sag, which is also true of any solid wood and ply incidentally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3.6m (that's nearly 12 feet for Imperial users) is a very long span though, I hope the plan wasn't just to attach it at the ends and let the middle float. It shouldn't need much, just one or two points of attachment should do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An additional concern here is whether you can source MDF in a 3.6m length. If that's not the case the span won't be a single piece of material anyway, so a join of some kind will have to be devised and implemented. And of course any such joint will have to be factored in in how you attach the pelmet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've seen suggestions here that MDF is less likely to be warped (as long as it is kept dry) but I've also seen counter-examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note those &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; give counter-examples to the quoted statement. Storage conditions that make for bent wood or manmade boards where gravity is a factor are completely separate to any tendency in a material to change dimensions or warp with changes in humidity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Am I right in saying, if I buy some MDF from a hardware store, it is much more likely to be flat than ordering pineboard from a timberyard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wish for all our sakes that the answer to this was a simple yes, but unfortunately it's more complicated than that. It's not just the material qualities of the wood/board itself that is in play here, they way it's stored is hugely important. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even stuff naturally un-inclined to bow can bow given half a chance by poor storage conditions. One great example of this is full sheets of ply only supported at or near both ends, even plywood 19mm and thicker can readily bow if stored this way, particularly in a stack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And conversely weaker wood (e.g. long lengths of thin softwood) can remain just as flat as they came out of the kiln if stored well, i.e. fully supported along their length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T07:55:50.333" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4251" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-14T10:59:45.753" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drill&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia:Drill&lt;/a&gt; for more details on drills in general or questions about &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/drill-bits&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;drill-bits&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;drill-bits&lt;/a&gt; for more details on those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2262" LastEditorUserId="2262" LastEditDate="2016-06-15T23:26:44.030" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T23:26:44.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4252" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-14T10:59:45.753" Score="0" Body="The electric or manual tools that use drill-bits. Their differences, usage, safety, etc." OwnerUserId="2262" LastEditorUserId="2262" LastEditDate="2016-06-15T18:40:32.650" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T18:40:32.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4242" CreationDate="2016-06-14T11:27:08.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The longer, the less safe, obviously (not just because of breakage, but also because of handling, the involved forces, and simply because there's a much longer blade protruding).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;But if you respect them for what they are, and use them accordingly, they are pretty safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will normally not want to use the full length of the blade. Except, you &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; maybe use it that way in a router table, but then you have to go very shallow. That is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; the intended purpose of the bit, though. It's not a thickness planer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;normal&quot; usage of these long bits is in a plunge router for a diversity of joints. But for obvious reasons, the bit is not intended to cut that depth in one pass.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Neither is your router powerful enough, nor would you be strong enough to safely hold The Beast if you plunged in full-depth. That's crazy.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Even with much shorter bits, one usually does &lt;em&gt;at least&lt;/em&gt; two, more commonly three passes. With a long bit like this one, I'd do &lt;em&gt;at least&lt;/em&gt; 6, if not 8 passes (6 passes is 12mm per pass -- surely OK for soft woods, but depending on what hardwood you're routing, that's quite a mouthful!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have admittedly seen people use 50mm bits to cut out the sink hole in 40mm kitchen benchtops in one go. Press button, plunge in full depth, and fiiiiiiouuuuuuu... Ah well, if you absolutely want to do that, you can. But of course, there's safer, more intelligent, less tool-killing things one can do. On the positive side, you're not likely to hit a knot in a kitchen benchtop...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About the actual length, and the shaft thickness: 3 inches are only 76mm. I have 96mm bits in my box which really feel a bit &quot;uneasy&quot; because they are so darn long, but I've never had a breakage (used mostly in oak and beech).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There exist bits that are 110mm (though I've never worked with any of these).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 1/2 inch shank is pretty rock solid. I am using 12mm which is already close to indestructible (it doesn't seem that way, 8mm is not so much thinner and those can and will break, but there's &lt;em&gt;worlds&lt;/em&gt; between 8mm and 12mm).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;While 1/2 inch looks like almost the same as 12mm, those 0.35mm make again a big difference. It's over 12% more cross-cut surface (and thus tensile strength). Compared to a 8mm shank, it has more than 2.5 times the cross-cut surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will obviously not want to use a bit which has a diameter smaller than the shank (doesn't help a lot for stability if the shank is 12.7mm but in the cutting section it's only 6mm!). But that's not normally a problem since tool manufacturers (normally) don't make such long bits that are thinner than the shank anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="135" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T11:27:08.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4254" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4257" CreationDate="2016-06-14T12:28:40.473" Score="13" ViewCount="38269" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been using some mineral turpentine to clean paintbrushes and it's gotten quite dirty (it also got all gel-like, I think there was something else in the container it reacted with). Since these solvents are pretty toxic, how do I dispose of it correctly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2251" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2017-04-19T20:22:08.467" LastActivityDate="2022-03-11T20:25:00.847" Title="How do I properly dispose of a solvent like mineral turpentine?" Tags="|safety|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4254" CreationDate="2016-06-14T13:39:36.680" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many local municipalities have a drop off disposal site for hazardous chemicals.  That is your best bet.  If your city doesn't have such a service, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ecolife.com/recycling/tips-basics/where-to-recycle.html&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; is a site that lists some other options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T13:39:36.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4254" CreationDate="2016-06-14T15:13:31.770" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Highly volatile solvents like mineral spirits evaporate quite readily, so one option is to simply leave an open container outside and let it evaporate.  The more surface area, the faster it will evaporate, so a large shallow pan is better than a tall and narrow container.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once all the liquid has evaporated you should be able to dispose of the container in your household trash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastEditorUserId="2160" LastEditDate="2016-06-14T21:00:17.283" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T21:00:17.283" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4254" CreationDate="2016-06-14T15:28:59.910" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Local regulations about how to dispose of small quantities of solvent vary widely, so expect that Answers may be only guides to how you &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be able to do it where you live. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't throw it out if it's still usable&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Contaminated spirits is still potentially useful as-is for certain 'dirty jobs' like degreasing and cleaning up of old tools, engine parts etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I keep a jar of dirty spirits for precisely this reason, carefully labelled so I don't accidentally try to clean a brush in it. It has a little Vaseline, liquid paraffin (mineral oil) and various unknown lubricants dissolved in it from rinsing and cleaning of new and old tool parts and as far as I can tell it works just as well as fresh, clean spirits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Keeping it going&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In addition to the above, dissolved contaminants will usually settle out of solution over time. Let dirty spirits sit in a jar for a while (a few days to a week or more) and see if the stuff will separate to a discrete layer on the bottom. It usually will, then you can decant the 'clean' spirits off the top. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone reading needs to do this on a larger scale see the pic posted at bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory spirits can be kept going indefinitely this way. If you never top up there will come a point when it becomes too dirty to continue to use (it will be in effect very dilute varnish) but even then, simply decanting to a fresh container and diluting with fresh spirits can be all that's needed for the gunk to settle out. To be frank though the volume is so low at that point that few would mind the waste of throwing it out, or otherwise disposing of it — see next point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use the settling method you're left with a small amount of sludge in the bottom of the container (it can literally be just a spoonful or two from a large jar used to rinse brushes all year) which can be disposed of safely in your regular rubbish collection. It is safe, but may or may not be legal depending on where you live and how OTT the safety regs are there (anyone living in California, we feel your pain) but it should be legal to do this everywhere because &lt;em&gt;the residue can't be any more toxic than the original paint and/or varnish was&lt;/em&gt;. So as odd as it might seem residue like this is no more or less dangerous than any dirty paintbrushes or rollers, paper towels or wiping rags used in the painting or varnishing process, and of course most people wouldn't even think &quot;toxic waste&quot; when disposing of those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you still want to get rid of it but aren't sure how&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is going to horrify some people but a viable alternative approach for the typical small volumes of solvent we're talking about here is just to put it outside to evaporate (under cover as needed so pets etc. can't get to it). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does sound environmentally very suspect but compared to industrial/commercial output of solvent vapours the amount of pollution this represents is irrelevant — even collectively for every leisure woodworker in the world, the amount would be insignificant on a global scale. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to work through a large volume of contaminated spirits on a regular basis you might want to rig up something similar to the below to make the settling and decanting processes a little more efficient:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LVRoc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LVRoc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&amp;quot;Solvent decanter&amp;quot; (settling pipe)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2017-04-21T08:20:02.180" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T08:20:02.180" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4242" CreationDate="2016-06-14T16:12:27.013" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking the longer the bit is the less material you will want to take off per pass.  As others have stated use a 1/2&quot; shank for many safety reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T16:12:27.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4184" CreationDate="2016-06-14T20:00:37.233" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ended up doing the job with a jigsaw and a drill. Jigsaw saws are available in several sizes. One of them went exactly 10cm deep. Of course it would bang into the wood if I would saw the 3 plains. To minimize the banging I drilled 3 holes along the end of those plains. I hope these pictures help to make sense out of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HxK3x.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HxK3x.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;first drilled the holes&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep the jigsaw firm and progress it slowly forward. The drilled holes might be off a bit and the saw will bang in the wood as it progresses. Need to keep the jigsaw pressed against the wood to absorb the mild blows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FDoQ2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FDoQ2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;then applied the jigsaw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the end result after shaving a bit with a wood file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh and the 2cm that's left is strong enough. That won't break easily. Not with your bare hands or fingers at least as someone suggested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M8Ez3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M8Ez3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;end result&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method will probably not work in hardwood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2331" LastEditorUserId="2331" LastEditDate="2016-06-15T21:58:21.907" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T21:58:21.907" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4260" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-15T13:50:48.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While working with any raw material it is almost always paramount to be able to exactly measure your stock. While most of the time measuring is pretty straight forward, it can get quite tricky when it isn't. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In woodworking there are also funny sounding words and terms for specific measurements that do not make immediate sense to laymen. e.g.: Board Foot - which is covered in &lt;a href=&quot;http://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3182/what-is-a-board-foot&quot;&gt;a question&lt;/a&gt; already, or the English word 'thou' (thousandths of an inch).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whereas the techniques of measuring are universally applicable, measurements are not. As this is an international platform please make it a habit of giving rough estimations for your less-preferred system (yes, the old metric vs imperial thing again ;))&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2262" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T20:22:33.520" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T20:22:33.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4261" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-15T13:50:48.467" Score="0" Body="Questions regarding the technique of measuring or tools that measure specific things, including both dimensions and angles, as well as moisture content." OwnerUserId="2262" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T20:22:33.520" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T20:22:33.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4263" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-15T23:06:24.607" Score="1" ViewCount="731" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read many guides that show that risers are added to stairs before the treads. What is the reason or does it not matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2374" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T08:30:36.560" Title="In which order to add risers and treads to stairs?" Tags="|technique|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4263" CreationDate="2016-06-16T08:30:36.560" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Risers generally go first &lt;em&gt;when installed in situ&lt;/em&gt; because the risers couldn't be fitted after the treads are in place, or not as easily. Sometimes it is &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; risers first, then the treads, sometimes it's riser, tread, riser, tread etc. working from the bottom to the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course whether you're retrofitting an existing staircase or building a new staircase makes a big difference, since in a new build you're doing the assembly work sideways with the stringer flat on the floor. In this case riser and tread can be fitted together (with any reinforcing blocks) and then installed as a piece. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When doing a rebuild whether you have access to the undersides of the stairs, or not, is also a factor. Various design specifics may also affect whether you work top-down or bottom-up, since in some cases the design forces you to work in a specific direction because of how the treads and risers fit together (housing joints or dados, interlocking rebates/rabbets or plain butt joints throughout).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some illustrations will help clarify some of the above, see how in both of these traditional designs it would be impossible to fit the risers if the treads were fixed in place:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FpPSZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FpPSZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Traditional stair cross-sections&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;strong&gt;Carpentry &amp;amp; Joinery&lt;/strong&gt;, Frederick C. Webber, 1898&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that since the tread on one step must be in place before the next riser in ascending order you're forced to work from the bottom upwards. Despite how this may sound this is still riser-first, since the bottom riser would be the first part fitted :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now see how in this modern stair you must have access to the underside in order to do the work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h4dx4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h4dx4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Modern stair design&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case when originally built I'm sure the risers and treads would be assembled and then installed as a unit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note how difficult it would be to replace one or more treads on a design like this, impossible in some cases without rebuilding the entire staircase!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T08:30:36.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3523" CreationDate="2016-06-16T16:39:51.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use the correct tool for the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When boards are too wide for your jointer or planer and you do not want to cut it up just to re-laminate it back together, use a hand plane!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ones you can get for $20-30ish &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-9-3-4-in-Bench-Plane/4069033&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;from Lowes&lt;/a&gt; aren't great but will work just fine after you sharpen the blade and possibly flatten the sole(bottom). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4sNuv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4sNuv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a flat piece of granite or marble tile (less than $10) with some wet/dry sandpaper to sharpen the blade and flatten the sole. Setup the blade w/ the bevel down and try it out. For very little outlay, you'll be able to flatten stock pretty reliably and without destroying the wood to just then put it back together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1649" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T16:39:51.703" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4266" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4267" CreationDate="2016-06-16T20:16:54.087" Score="6" ViewCount="2235" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many who say that MDF dulls cutting tools very quickly. But I do not think it does compared to many woods. I would think even pine is a harder material than MDF. How fast can it dull tools? Or does it do other wonders to a cutting tool because of the glue, like jamming it up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorDisplayName="user2251" LastEditDate="2016-06-27T23:09:52.520" LastActivityDate="2023-11-21T01:36:17.340" Title="Does MDF board dull tools quickly?" Tags="|mdf|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4266" CreationDate="2016-06-16T20:28:24.133" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The glue is much harder than the wood, hence the extra wear on blades and tools.  Pine is pretty soft compared to hardwoods, but construction lumber is often wet which might explain your experience with it in that it can gum up equipment faster than well dried hardwood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How fast can it dull&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on the quality of the blade.  A high quality blade will last longer than a low quality blade.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T20:28:24.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4266" CreationDate="2016-06-17T09:29:28.720" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There are many who say that MDF dulls cutting tools really fast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind that a lot of that is from people milling it with power tools, where the blades are moving very quickly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;But I do not think it does compared to many woods, even pine I wold think is a harder material than MDF. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well there's pine and there's pine, there are many subspecies and a lot of variation between them. But broadly speaking I think you're right. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact I find MDF is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; particularly dulling to tool edges (with hand tools). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compared to other board materials, chipboard/particleboard in particular, it's like cheese! While the glue used in chipboard can be the same as that used in MDF but it's not finely spread though the matrix of the material as it is in MDF and as a result the cutting edge contacts actual chunks of glue. Just from a few experienced working it with hand tools chipboard seems to be perhaps &gt;20 times more abrasive O_O&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And of course there are a great many tough or hard hardwoods that would be far above MDF which is soft enough to easily dent with a fingernail. Some hardwoods are merely much harder, e.g. purpleheart, African blackwood, but a few woods (commonly tropical hardwoods) contain silica and this makes them notorious for quickly dulling cutting edges, e.g. teak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How fast can it dull? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this is a &quot;How long is a piece of string?&quot; kind of thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How wearing any material is to cutting edges depends on many factors, the quality of the steel probably being the most critical. Note: not just the steel alloy itself &lt;em&gt;but how it's hardened&lt;/em&gt;. It's not at all difficult to start with a good, even excellent, steel and end up with a mediocre blade because it wasn't hardened properly. This is not an uncommon issue with low-end chisels for example where the steel may not actually be poor as usually stated (it would commonly be a perfectly reasonable high-carbon tool steel) it's just poorly heat treated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edge geometry is also important, the shallower the bevel the greater the tendency towards blunting. For a chisel a shallower angle would make it much more effective at slicing through wood, so there's a tradeoff. With most plane blades though the included angle on the edge is much less critical to performance (a 10-12° difference can be barely noticeable) so you can hone specifically to make the edge more durable if needed without a significant hit in planing resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-06-26T23:10:40.133" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T23:10:40.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4269" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4275" CreationDate="2016-06-18T13:45:42.060" Score="7" ViewCount="6948" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought 320 grit sandpaper the other day and only noticed now that it's a different kind, labelled 'water' instead of 'cabinet' sandpaper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bEXol.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bEXol.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sandpaper picture&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried using a bit of it and it seemed to work fine. So what's water sandpaper for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2251" LastActivityDate="2016-06-19T10:34:11.063" Title="What's water sandpaper for?" Tags="|finishing|sanding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4269" CreationDate="2016-06-18T18:48:47.190" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Water on the label implies that it is a wet/dry sandpaper meaning that it can be used when wet because the glue matrix which holds the abrasive is not water soluble.  For most woodwork applications this is irrelevant since the surfaces are sanded dry.  For other applications such as sanding metals etc. water is often used to help lubricate and remove debris which otherwise would clog the grit in the paper shortening its useful life.  Otherwise, there is no appreciable difference in the abrasive qualities/performance of the paper.  I keep some on hand for unique sanding conditions such as for stone inset in wood project or for when sanding items such as the soles of a plane I am reconditioning.  I adhere the sandpaper to a marble tile using water as an adhesive and then sand the sole on this sanding platform to flatten the sole. I am sure many have found other uses as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-06-18T18:48:47.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4269" CreationDate="2016-06-18T18:51:58.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Water sandpaper is used for &quot;wet sanding&quot; - typically on one of the last steps of finishing to reduce/remove brush marks and or trapped particles left on a previous coat. It usually has more consistently-sized abrasive bits which are adhered better to the backing.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This type of paper can be used both dry &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; wet - normally using a light solution of water and a couple of drops of liquid detergent. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/sanding/wet-sanding&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/sanding/wet-sanding&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2280" LastActivityDate="2016-06-18T18:51:58.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4272" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4273" CreationDate="2016-06-18T20:57:54.357" Score="6" ViewCount="2739" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the drill press's supporting pipe to the drill bit tip measures 5&quot;. I believe this &lt;strong&gt;limits me to drilling no farther than 5&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; in from any given side of my MDF sheet. Unfortunately, I need to drill 7&quot; in from the edge of my MDF sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there anyway to accomplish this with the drill press I currently own? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If not, are there alternatives to a drill press that can be used for accurate holes? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Or.. Is there a place that rents time on a drill press that could drill 7&quot; in from the side of a sheet of MDF?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drill press I have access to:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KhItl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KhItl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1191" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T16:45:16.917" Title="How do I drill greater than 7 inches in from the edge of my sheet of wood?" Tags="|drilling|holes|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4272" CreationDate="2016-06-18T21:47:07.950" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For drilling single holes in the middle of a piece of wood you can use a drill bushing to keep the bit perpendicular to the piece.  I use this from Big Gator Tools.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i87g4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i87g4.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use your drill press to drill a bushing hole through a thicker board (about 1-1 1/2&quot; works well).  If you go this route, you can make the bushing for any angle you need, and place several in a line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have to drill shelf pin holes in the side of a cabinet for adjustable shelves, you can use a shelf pin guide to keep consistent distance between holes.  These are available from a variety of vendors at a wide range of price points, starting with basic kits such as this from Milescraft.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k2Jng.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k2Jng.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2016-06-18T21:47:07.950" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1894" CreationDate="2016-06-18T23:52:08.893" Score="-6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the answer you're looking for is simply this. Some brilliant mathematician/astronomer a very long time ago figured out that, at noon each day around the equator, the sun will shine directly at a spot on the Earth. When this happens. A straight stick inserted perpendicular into the level ground will NOT create a shadow. Because the shadow is located exactly in the hole in which the stick is inserted. If this is done with a stick and a shallow pool of water, the result is a perfect right angle with relation to the surface of the water and the edge of the stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2379" LastActivityDate="2016-06-18T23:52:08.893" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4269" CreationDate="2016-06-19T10:34:11.063" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the terminology first, &quot;water sandpaper&quot; is not the commonly used name for this type of paper. It's generally referred to as wet-and-dry, wet-n-dry or wet-or-dry paper (with or without the hyphens) as well as wet/dry paper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And note that 'sandpaper' is especially a misnomer here since this type of paper isn't, and has never been, made from sand. The most common abrasive used for paper like this is silicon carbide (sometimes shortened to SiC, so the paper may be referred to as &quot;SiC paper&quot;). Usually when someone says SiC paper they mean wet-and-dry paper&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. Also, since the abrasive is a dark grey or black in colour they'll sometimes be referred to by colour&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. And as if that's not enough, some older guides will refer to the paper as carborundum paper, since SiC is also sold originally as carborundum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See previous Q&amp;amp;As for a little more related info:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2062/is-all-fine-grit-count-sandpaper-called-wet-dry&quot;&gt;Is all fine grit count sandpaper called wet/dry?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I tried using a bit of it and it seemed to work fine. So what's water sandpaper for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, not for sanding wood. It can of course sand wood and it'll do it well, since the abrasive is sharp and &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; hard, but some finishing gurus say that it shouldn't be used for sanding wood because of its dark colour, which can be obvious on certain lighter-coloured woods if any abrasive particles get stuck in pores or grain and can't easily be removed when you're done sanding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few previous Questions here that cover how this type of paper is commonly used in woodworking:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1420/leveling-a-finish-finishing-the-finish&quot;&gt;Leveling a finish/finishing the finish&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3658/how-do-i-de-nib-polyurethane-after-it-dries-but-still-maintain-its-finish&quot;&gt;How do I de-nib polyurethane after it dries but still maintain its finish?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/756/how-do-i-achieve-a-piano-black-high-gloss-finish-on-wood&quot;&gt;How do I achieve a &amp;quot;piano black&amp;quot; high gloss finish on wood?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final quick note, it's important to bear the following in mind when reading American woodworking and finishing guides when using P-rated papers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P-rated paper&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There are two main classification systems used for abrasive paper, CAMI and FEPA. CAMI is the American system which uses a plain number, FEPA is from Europe and has the P before the number. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P-rated papers generally produce a slightly more uniform scratch pattern (fewer scratches that are deeper than expected) because the abrasive grit is more accurately screened, so there can be a much narrower range of grits bound to the paper than on a CAMI paper. Obviously good results are possible with papers classified either way, but in general it's more feasible to skip grits when sanding using P-rated papers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the two systems share most of the same numbers they don't unfortunately correlate across the whole span of grits :-( Within the narrow band of grits used most commonly in woodworking they are roughly equivalent, so 220 and P220 are nearly the same, but once you get to higher numbers (finer grits) they begin to diverge and for example 600 grit paper is actually nearly equivalent to P1200!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TlldC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TlldC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;CAMI v FEPA&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 It's possible that all abrasive papers or cloths that use silicon carbide can be used wet, so regardless of the name used it may &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; refer to a waterproof abrasive even when that is not specified. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 Not all grey papers use silicon carbide however. Light-grey papers, usually fine to very fine, are sold for smoothing/flattening finish and these are made from aluminium oxide (more commonly seen in abrasives in its red form, as used on most sanding belts and sheets for powered sanders of all types).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-06-19T10:34:11.063" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4272" CreationDate="2016-06-19T10:54:55.090" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there anyway to accomplish this with the drill press I currently own? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can see, no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If not, are there alternatives to a drill press that can be used for accurate holes? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. You can actually drill very accurate holes (accurate in all senses: position, diameter and squareness to the surface). Note that for accurate positioning marking out must be done accurately beforehand, and centre marks or pilot holes are advisable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to drill holes square to the surface there are various techniques and tricks that can be used, some of which are covered in a previous Q&amp;amp;A: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/89/how-do-i-ensure-my-drill-is-perfectly-vertical-before-cutting-a-hole-in-my-desk&quot;&gt;How do I ensure my drill is perfectly vertical before cutting a hole in my desk?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately drilling freehand with Forstner bits is not really recommended (some guides and manufacturers of the bits say outright not to do it) and it would be difficult to ensure good results consistently. Obviously if you &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; to do this using a hand-held power drill you can go ahead and try, but it's highly recommended you drill practice holes first in scraps of the MDF you'll be using. I would recommend slower speeds and light pressure, do not be tempted to rush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These practice holes may dissuade you from trying this freehand, in which case other drill bits may begin to seem an attractive proposition, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2254/which-type-of-drill-bit-for-which-jobs&quot;&gt;Which type of drill bit for which jobs?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The job you have to do here is one reason I'm such a fan of swing braces and &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3463/is-there-still-a-place-for-hand-drills-in-a-modern-woodshop/3491#3491&quot;&gt;have given my opinion that they're very viable even today&lt;/a&gt;. An inexpensive older brace with a vintage 1&quot; Jennings or Irwin auger will drill all the holes you'd need with little effort and are capable of great accuracy with only a little practice, and proper initial layout of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Or.. Is there a place that rents time on a drill press that could drill 7&quot; in from the side of a sheet of MDF?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes for certain places, but obviously this is very location-specific so we can't answer that for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-06-19T10:54:55.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4272" CreationDate="2016-06-20T13:29:31.413" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other option that no one has mentioned is to use a plunge router to &quot;drill&quot; the hole.  Because the base of the router is supported by the material, you have high assurances that the hole will be routed perfectly perpendicular to the surface.  Using a guide will also allow you to accurately position the holes and make repeated plunges.  If needed, the depth stop on a plunge router will also ensure your holes have a consistent depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T13:29:31.413" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4272" CreationDate="2016-06-20T14:12:18.727" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say I am at best, hobby level. But when I had to do something like this in the past, I would use the drill press to drill holes into a template piece of wood. Something thin enough to not get in the way but thick enough to hold it's form. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then chalk line the end MDF, place the template in the right spot. Clamp everything down really well. Use a hand drill to drill the actual holes, and just go slowly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The forstner bit, will actually help a lot with this. Because it is thicker the template wood piece will help keep it straight up and down until you're far enough into the MDF that it keeps the shape for you too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ideal wood for the template piece needs to be cheap, and a little thicker than your bit is deep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2383" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-06-26T16:45:16.917" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T16:45:16.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4281" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-20T22:47:22.717" Score="0" ViewCount="384" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would love to make a stone sieve out of wood. The best thing I can think of is to take a piece of wood and drill lots of holes in it. And I would be putting siding on of coarse. What size holes should I use? What could I do to prevent clogging of the soil if any? And maybe somebody has a blue print or a different and better way of making something like this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="2073" LastEditDate="2017-01-12T20:23:43.837" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T20:23:43.837" Title="Making a stone sieve out of wood" Tags="|design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4282" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-21T06:35:03.510" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Milling is the process of cutting tree trunks, or parts of tree trunks, into rough-cut lumber. Generally this is done using a sawmill, but can also be accomplished with hand tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Milling in the machining sense of the word should be used with the tag &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/cnc&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;cnc&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;cnc&lt;/a&gt;. For further information, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://meta.woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/339/what-to-do-with-the-milling-tag&quot;&gt;this discussion&lt;/a&gt; on the meta site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2262" LastEditorUserId="3562" LastEditDate="2019-09-23T18:35:26.387" LastActivityDate="2019-09-23T18:35:26.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4283" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-21T06:35:03.510" Score="0" Body="For questions pertaining to cutting tree trunks into rough-cut lumber, e.g. using a sawmill or hewing axe. Not to be used for 3D carving with a milling machine, which should instead be tagged [cnc]." OwnerUserId="2262" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2020-01-20T07:45:15.590" LastActivityDate="2020-01-20T07:45:15.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4281" CreationDate="2016-06-21T08:00:43.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What size holes should I use? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surely this is going to depend on the size of the stones &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; need to exclude? I imagine any soil is going to contain a wide range of pebble sizes, how large the ones you need to screen out is entirely up to what you need to get out of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What could I do to prevent clogging of the soil if any? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if this is an issue that can be addressed in the abstract, it will depend on variables that haven't been established: the type of soil you have (sandy or clay-ey or middling) if obviously the first thought, but of course the size(s) of the holes drilled in the wood will be a factor and you haven't decided on that yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;And maybe somebody has a blue print or a different and better way of making something like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe these are usually made from a metal screen tacked to a wooden frame, and I would think there's a reason that's the most common format! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A metal screen is going to be much more robust and hard-wearing than perforated wood and it would more easily withstand getting hosed off at the end of a session. Wood &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; deal with getting wet and then drying out repeatedly of course, but there are usually some consequences (splinters, cracks forming etc.) which may too quickly affect function. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T08:00:43.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4285" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4300" CreationDate="2016-06-21T09:24:59.853" Score="4" ViewCount="2024" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Sane Man's Approach&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I'm about to remove a wall I have to add a steel &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/I-beam&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;I-Beam&lt;/a&gt; as a post to support the ceiling. My plan is to cover all four sides so that it looks like a wooden post. Normally I would cut mitered angles and try to make the seams as unobtrusive as possible or just glue and brad nail boards together in place as there is only exposed long grain and I think that wouldn't look too bad either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/adIsg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/adIsg.png&quot; alt=&quot;profile of mitered boards&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3uT3d.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3uT3d.png&quot; alt=&quot;profile of board to board&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My Delusions Of Grandeur&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While mulling this idea around in my head I came up with the idea of joining the boards with box joints. Although they wouldn't need any strength to speak of, I think this would give the post a nice look. I'm even considering using two or four different types of wood to maximize the effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a ton of guides, tutorials, discussions out there on how to make box joints with the table saw or a router table and some kind of jig. By now it feels like I watched and read ALL of them :). While being excellent for cutting box joints for their intended size and application, none of them suit me and my idea. The room is somewhere under three meters (ten feet) high and so would the boards be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My Questions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the grain direction a problem for me? Box joints are usually cut into end-grain, I would cut them into long-grain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I use different wood(species), would the joints explode all over my living room while they probably expand at different rates/times?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the best tool to use?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What would be the best jig to use?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this completely loony or is there already an established way of doing this that I simply didn't find?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2262" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-06-26T17:01:58.743" LastActivityDate="2019-06-05T07:07:17.300" Title="How do i create a really long box joint?" Tags="|router|router-bit|jig|box-joint|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4285" CreationDate="2016-06-21T09:24:59.853" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll try to answer the question as good as possible myself, but on a few points I'm in over my head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is the grain direction a problem for me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the cutting goes it shouldn't be a problem, one should use sacrificial boards in the places where the router-bit/saw-blade comes out though, as the long grain will probably tear out otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I use different wood(species), would the joints explode all over my living room while they probably expand at different rates/times?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the wood probably won't explode I think the expansion/shrinkage can cause the glue to fail or produce cracks in the boards. I think investigating and using species that have similar expansion rates would help mitigate this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This could be a question on it's own.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is the best tool to use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following listing is not sorted by viability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Table Saw&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(+) produces clean cuts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(+) jigs can be built to cut very reliable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(-) expansion tables are seldom wide enough and handling such long stock can be dangerous&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(-) space - hobby workshops are seldom big enough for tasks like this on the saw. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Miter Saw&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I don't have one and never used one it's hard to imagine how this would work with one, I'd go with NAH!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Router Table&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the advantages and disadvantages align pretty much with those of the table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Handheld Router&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion the handheld router would be suited best for this task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(+/-) as reliable in terms of cutting exact recesses as the jig one is using&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(+) routers are cheap and many have one&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(+) can be done wherever there is power&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(-) tear-out is a big risk&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clamp the four boards with a bit of excess length and a sacrificial piece on the side where the router comes out. The excess length should be about the length of at least two joint recesses so you can omit calculating for offset. Cut the recesses with the handheld router and a comb like jig (more about that below). After cutting the joints dry-fit it and mark the length on the dry-fitted &quot;box&quot;. Then cut the boards to length and install them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What would be the best jig to use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9drCJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9drCJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Leigh Finger/Box Joint template&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using the handheld router method described above, a comb-like jig like the one from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.leighjigs.com/f3.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Leigh Industries&lt;/a&gt; would probably work best. I'd build the jig from some scrap and insert a locking piece in the first recess so that the jig may be moved along the boards precisely. Something along the lines of this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Jig&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tNVSF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tNVSF.png&quot; alt=&quot;hand router box joint jig&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The First Cuts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BfYJ2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BfYJ2.png&quot; alt=&quot;making the first cuts&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Next Few Cuts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wtYwp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wtYwp.png&quot; alt=&quot;doing the rest of the joints&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2262" LastEditorUserId="2262" LastEditDate="2016-06-21T19:01:39.450" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T19:01:39.450" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4068" CreationDate="2016-06-21T12:04:11.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The obvious answer to this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It is tearing out as I bring the router back out of the jig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;would be: &lt;em&gt;&quot;Well, don't do that then&quot;&lt;/em&gt;. Yeah, very funny, I know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there is some truth in that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After reading the first three lines, I was going to suggest a climb cut, but then realized that you are already doing that (at first, I was assuming a climb-cut spiral bit being used).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The situation &lt;em&gt;&quot;When I bring the router back out of the jig&quot;&lt;/em&gt; shouldn't happen at all. The intent of a climb cut is to reduce or eliminate tearout because the cutting blade always pushes into the wood rather than pulling it outward and tearing fibers. There is however no way of &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; pulling outward when exiting unless you can change the router's rotational sense and the direction the bit's blades face mid-operation (which you obviously can't).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If possible, use a spiral router bit because those are less obnoxious to the wood as the cut is more &quot;continuously flowing&quot; rather than &quot;hammering into the wood&quot;. A conventional, straight bit like the one shown on the website will generally produce a larger amount of tearout no matter what you do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try doing just over half of every pin (climb cut, clockwise), exit where you entered (without touching). Then turn the work piece -- preferrably, the entire jig with the work piece still in it -- around. Now do the other half.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That way, you have climb cuts entering on either side, and no exits. Is the only method where you can &lt;em&gt;guarantee&lt;/em&gt; that tearout is at a minimum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Alternatively one could use the router upside down for the second half, but I advise against that for obvious reasons.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="135" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T12:04:11.257" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4288" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4296" CreationDate="2016-06-21T14:08:30.323" Score="4" ViewCount="1465" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on a couple of end tables, and am really new to woodworking. Thus far, I've worked on cutting boards and finished with a combination of walnut oil/beeswax for a food safe finish. For the end tables, I went ahead and applied one coat of oil/beeswax then started researching how to prevent water stains. It seems like Arm-R-Seal in satin is a really popular choice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can Arm-R-Seal be applied over the top of a single coat of oil/wax?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2087" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T07:29:12.853" Title="Finishing with Arm-R-Seal After Oil and Wax" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4281" CreationDate="2016-06-21T17:48:11.463" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's one I made a few years ago from scraps. I believe this is what you're trying to make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7rq4z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7rq4z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Garden Sieve&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's 2x4&quot; for the main walls, with a 1/4&quot; mesh grill acting as the actual sieve. The mesh is stapled to the 2x4's, and has a 1x2&quot; furring piece underneath so that you don't catch your fingers on the metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The size of mine is 36&quot; x 26&quot; - I built it specifically to fit over the top of my big wheelbarrow. The sifted soil goes into the wheelbarrow, and the rocks and weeds get tipped into another wheelbarrow next to it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not pretty, but functional. Just like me!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1889" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T17:48:11.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4288" CreationDate="2016-06-21T20:37:06.507" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Per their website, it can be applied over BLO, Danish, or Tung Oil once they're dried.  Those are drying oils, so your mileage with a non-drying oil might vary.  That said, once the oil and wax are fully absorbed, you could wipe down the surface to remove any excess, and I'll bet it would coat fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://generalfinishes.com/retail-products/oil-based-top-coats/arm-r-seal-urethane-topcoat#.V2mknY58YxM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Manufacturer's website&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2354" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T20:37:06.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4291" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4298" CreationDate="2016-06-21T21:03:45.673" Score="4" ViewCount="147" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a guitar and I don't want it to be natural wood because all homemade instruments are like that. At the same time, I would really like to have some wood in it, because, as we know, nice wood looks nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution I came up with is to paint some details, like flowers or some sort of &quot;tattoo&quot;, leaving a lot of wood in the background.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, how do I finish to get a perfect flat surface, and no &quot;steps&quot; from the paint edges to the wood beneath?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2390" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-06-23T02:12:31.090" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T02:12:31.090" Title="How to get zero height painting?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4292" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4297" CreationDate="2016-06-21T21:17:47.217" Score="4" ViewCount="183" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I use quarter sawn boards for the breadboard ends, the battens are stable but weaker.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If I use plain sawn boards, the battens are stronger but are themselves at risk of cupping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&amp;amp;id=0B_spBA3PuW7aOFVyaFpGbUowTEk&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would one always be recommended over the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="81" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T08:21:02.167" Title="Should breadboard ends be quarter sawn or plain sawn?" Tags="|joinery|wood-movement|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4294" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-21T23:44:47.777" Score="8" ViewCount="4468" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay guys, I need your expert help. I bought a solid beech counter top that I'm using as my computer table. A couple of days ago I bought wood treatment oil from Ikea. Followed instructions and left it to dry 24 hours. Now, it looks good but the table sweats oil. Any paper or book that I place there gets the oil. I have been sweeping the whole thing with a clean microfiber cloth but no use. What can I do to fix this and not damage the wood in the process? Put beeswax polish? Please help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2392" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-06-26T16:31:19.107" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T16:31:19.107" Title="Ikea Beech Table top conditioning" Tags="|finishing|tabletop|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4294" CreationDate="2016-06-22T06:07:57.930" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;left it to dry 24 hours. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First thing, I don't know if Ikea make a selection of oil treatments but going by the one that's most commonly used this won't ever dry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the oil is based on mineral oil (it might even be nothing but mineral oil, which could be purchased much more cheaply elsewhere) when the instructions say something to the effect of &quot;leave to dry for 24 hours&quot; really what they mean is leave it to soak in for 24 hours since it will never actually dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Now, it looks good but the table sweats oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wipe off the oil until it stops weeping out. It really is as simple as that with just about any oil finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally you wipe off excess so thoroughly at the time of application that you'd have at most a scattering of tiny droplets later, but the nature of the wood dictates how much this happens which you have no control over. The more open-grained the wood the more oil will come out later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have been sweeping the whole thing with a clean microfiber cloth but no use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's best to use something more absorbent than microfibre (a synthetic fabric). Cotton is good, or just use kitchen paper/paper towels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Put beeswax polish? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you do get the surface to feel dry to the touch and remain that way I would actually recommend you apply a beeswax polish if that's convenient. Oiled wood, no matter what type of oil is used, is actually very poor at resisting liquid intrusion, as odd as this seems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Waxing will create a wax surface layer which will greatly increase initial resistance to watery liquids — but note, not true waterproofing so you &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; wipe up condensation or spills quickly to prevent staining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wax will also give a slicker surface, which is good for helping to prevent minor scratching but the downside is it's a slicker surface, so keyboards, papers etc. can slide around more than you'd like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T06:07:57.930" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4288" CreationDate="2016-06-22T07:29:12.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can Arm-R-Seal be applied over the top of a single coat of oil/wax?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it stands, no, but with surface prep yes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a rule in finishing, nothing goes over wax but wax. Wax is a resist, nothing will stick to it properly but more wax. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now obviously you've used an oil/wax blend which isn't just wax, but there's still wax in there and it will affect adhesion of a varnish topcoat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ideal fix here would be to skim off the surface of the side tables, just removing a few thou should be enough to get below the treated wood fibres (penetration of all finishes is surprisingly shallow in nearly all woods, except on end grain). This can be done by sanding, scraping or planing, or a combination, whichever process(es) you prefer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's probably a good idea to then clean the freshly surfaced wood down with solvent to remove any last traces of the existing finish that may remain, unless you go deep enough that you're sure you've exposed pristine wood. If you want to do the solvent thing start with a few wipes of mineral spirits then finish up with something stronger like acetone or lacquer thinner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might possibly get away with just thoroughly cleaning the surface with the solvents, but I wouldn't be inclined to rely on this alone myself and it would require copious amounts of solvent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;prevent water stains&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way of looking at this: do your end tables actually need protection from water? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they're to be used regularly for holding drinks then a polyurethane varnish is a great choice as a topcoat, but if they aren't then the oil/wax blend you've used already is a perfectly acceptable finish for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Arm-R-Seal in satin is a really popular choice&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I would recommend you get gloss varnish, thin it to wiping consistency and then wipe it on. You'll naturally get a satin finish this way, with a gloss finish available for any future project without a subsequent purchase being necessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just wanted to add a couple of bits on this in case it's of use or interest. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Thus far, I've worked on cutting boards and finished with a combination of walnut oil/beeswax for a food safe finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, note that most cutting boards don't actually need to be finished in any way to withstand use and regular washing. Finishing is nearly entirely done for looks, not because boards actually need it to prevent them falling apart, cracking, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now about &quot;food-safe&quot; finishing, there's masses of humming and hawing about this online but virtually all wood finishes are broadly considered food-safe by regulatory agencies worldwide &lt;em&gt;once fully cured&lt;/em&gt;. This includes varnishes and lacquers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While neither of them seem at first glance to be suitable finishes for a cutting board (because you don't want an actual film on the surface which can be cut and start to chip, possibly ending up in the food*) if thinned heavily they will soak into the wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Even if you did build a film and it did chip and some got ingested this is still no big deal — film finishes are passed for use on children's toys, that's how safe they are once fully hardened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T07:29:12.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4292" CreationDate="2016-06-22T08:21:02.167" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say go with quarter-sawn ideally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quarter-sawn wood can be relied upon to be &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; more stable, but it must be said many a breadboard end has been made from plain-sawn wood that has held up well over time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from stability there is the potential advantage in the figure on the face of the board, depending on the species you're using naturally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I use quarter sawn boards for the breadboard ends, the battens are stable but weaker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you need to examine this, weakER doesn't mean actually weak. &#xA;Any decently thick quarter-sawn piece is going to be innately strong in most woods, particularly in hardwoods. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To give some illustration that this isn't just a theoretical exercise the potential weakness doesn't seem to have been of concern to the makers of these pieces:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pmnfu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pmnfu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Quarter-sawn breadboard ends&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T08:21:02.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4291" CreationDate="2016-06-22T08:51:59.433" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So, how do I finish to get a perfect flat surface, and no &quot;steps&quot; where the paint begins and starts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Build up a sufficient number of layers of finish that they go over the paint thickly enough, so that once you wet-sand to flatten off the surface you don't 'break through' the clear coating and begin to remove any paint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would typically require at least three full-strength coats but you'll need to experiment to establish how many you need to apply over the painting you've done. As the Comment above from keshlam has already indicated, painting as thinly as possible would be a very good starting point. The flatter you can make the painted decorations the fewer coats of clear finish you'll need to apply, if there is some raised texture in the brushstrokes in the paint it may require something like 5-7 coats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some related Q&amp;amp;As from here:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1420/leveling-a-finish-finishing-the-finish&quot;&gt;Leveling a finish/finishing the finish&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/756/how-do-i-achieve-a-piano-black-high-gloss-finish-on-wood&quot;&gt;How do I achieve a &amp;quot;piano black&amp;quot; high gloss finish on wood?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to do some research on, I believe that as thin a layer of finish as needed to get the right colour or surface finish is the goal for most luthiers. From what I understand this is because it has been established that the more finish you add the duller an instrument sounds so a thick coating may be something you would want to try to avoid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T08:51:59.433" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4285" CreationDate="2016-06-22T22:14:06.063" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A simpler option may be to fake it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of an actual box joint you could make a fake looking one by making the cuts in one board and then filling the voids with wood in the other grain direction. This works really well with contrasting woods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The actual joint will be a butjoint like the second image. But it will look like a box joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That way you don't need to be as precise with the long box joint and risk a misalignment building up until it doesn't fit any more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2019-06-05T07:07:17.300" LastActivityDate="2019-06-05T07:07:17.300" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4285" CreationDate="2016-06-23T14:04:34.583" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is the grain direction a problem for me? Box joints are usually cut into end-grain, I would cut them into long-grain&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of cutting the joint initially, possibly depending on the method chosen. In terms of the finished joint, very much yes (see final point).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I use different wood(species), would the joints explode all over my living room while they probably expand at different rates/times?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Expansion and contraction is across the width of boards, not along their length, so I don't think you have to worry about it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even without using &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3441/what-is-the-maximum-width-for-a-full-cross-grain-glue-up/3533#3533&quot;&gt;quarter-sawn wood&lt;/a&gt; the expansion across the width of single boards is usually small enough that it can safely be ignored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is the best tool to use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I need to say it? There is no best. This sort of thing is so highly dependent on what's available and the experience of the user anyway that it's always better to ask this sort of thing differently, e.g. &quot;What tools would be good choices to cut this joint?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What would be the best jig to use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The jig you envisage in your Answer is probably the perfect solution here if cutting this joint by machine. And while I'm a big fan of jigs perhaps no jig at all is worth a moment's consideration, because one clear option that was overlooked above is doing this using hand tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not going to actually recommend this because the amount of work would seem so overwhelming (and anyway it's trumped by my final point) but you asked for options so...... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hand tools&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There's technically no limit to how long you could make a joint like this by hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This might seem contradictory given the known lower accuracy of hand processes compared to machine-cut joints, but just as in dovetailing &lt;em&gt;any irregularities are transferred to the mating piece&lt;/em&gt;. So yes, you will get irregularity but the process factors it in.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also these joints would not require the level of tight fit that you'd want on the dovetails on fine furniture. Sloppy fit would be much more acceptable here, even desirable given the difficulty in interlocking over such lengths, and as you say it's not like this needs any strength to speak of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could use a router to hog out the centres, for speed and to reduce the effort needed, but an additional benefit of using hand tools for almost all the wood removal is that it gives almost total control over tearout if you do it right as all the cutting processes go &lt;em&gt;into&lt;/em&gt; the wood, never exiting on long grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Why this isn't a viable idea&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The elephant in the room: the little cubes of the cut joint are all short grain. This isn't just weak theoretically it's weak in practice. You will find if you do a quick test that even modest pressure against the fingers can be enough to snap them free. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find any images but people have cut box joints/comb joints/finger joints as you're proposing here, 90° to the normal orientation, and almost invariably they get one or more breakages just when dry-fitting the joints. If you did manage to make it through that stage and complete glueing up without incident manoeuvring the piece into position you might get failures along the corners. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T14:04:34.583" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3945" CreationDate="2016-06-23T14:39:21.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought I might as well convert my Comment above seeing as nobody else posted an Answer specifying the exact bit type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bit type&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The bit you're looking for is a twist bit which perhaps you already have? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These days they're commonly available in three finishes, bare steel, black oxide and &quot;titanium-coated&quot; (more accurately, coated in titanium nitride). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bcndF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bcndF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Twist bits/twist drills&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most bare steel bits will be HSS, short for high-speed steel, a hard and durable alloy that is highly resistant to softening at high temperatures. Both of the other types can be HSS under their respective coatings too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's still possible to buy carbon-steel twist bits today, especially if they're very cheap. The durability of these bits when boring into steel can be low, especially if heat is allowed to build up during drilling (this can literally cause a bit to go blunt the first time it's used — if the tip goes blue it got too hot and will have 'lost temper', becoming little harder than the steel brackets you're drilling into).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Method&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When preparing to drill into the steel a centre-punch must be used first to put a dimple into the metal. This is to to help prevent the tip from wandering, but even so some care must be exercised to keep the bit on the mark before it starts to cut and form its own hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though HSS is very heat-tolerant you may need to lubricate periodically during drilling (e.g. with 3-in-One or motor oil, fresh or unused) to prevent buildup of excess heat. The steel may drill much more slowly than you're used to but don't press hard to get the bit to pierce it, as always it's best to let the tool do the work at its own pace. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the bit has gotten through the steel and enters the wood expect it to suddenly increase its boring speed, so be prepared for this as the drill may jerk which always comes with the risk of a snapped bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Personal protection&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Wearing eye protection is advisable, and especially if doing the drilling indoors ear protection too (common foam earplugs are fine for this level of noise).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T14:39:21.097" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4302" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-23T14:57:20.023" Score="5" ViewCount="469" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a book case in my parents' house that me and my father built about 6 years ago. It was built to fit around a dresser and mirror. It's a log house so everything is &quot;rustic&quot;. We had to build it in three pieces to fit it in the room it's in. It's not the best book case in the world. We just needed something and didn't have a lot of nice tools setup at the time. I'd do plenty of things different if I did it again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is the finish. We did one, maybe two coats, of polyurethane. I can't tell you the brand or whether it was water or oil based. We just brushed it on, being careful not to have drips run down the finish. We installed it and it has housed my books for almost a decade. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue with the finish is that it feels like the wood grain is slightly rough. I don't notice it so much where the books sit as with the top and sides. When I used to dust it, it really caught the duster. Now, my books are still there and it bothers them. I can remove my books temporarily, but I don't care enough to unscrew the L-brackets holding it to the wall and I really don't want to carry it downstairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could I use a high grit or wet sand paper to knock the finish down to where it's smooth enough not to catch the duster? Also, would there be a lot of sanding marks. Minor marks that might stand out on a highly polished table wouldn't matter here. It's just made out of some home depot boards and has a generic polyurethane on it. The rest of the house is wood/rustic. I don't want to put a lot of highly visible blemishes on it, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They actually have a similar problem in one of the bathrooms. The interior walls are tongue-and-groove and they'll catch towels and washcloths if you try to wipe them down. You have to wipe them down, because they also catch dust. I used to just vacuum the walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="232" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-06-26T18:18:44.903" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T18:18:44.903" Title="Polyurethane Book Case is Rough, Sand in Place?" Tags="|finishing|furniture|sanding|refinishing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4302" CreationDate="2016-06-23T18:48:10.310" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes go ahead and sand it. When I do my show tables for selling at rabbit shows the polyurethane does the exact thing you are talking about. I take 150 and do a little bit, because it does not take much to start smoothing the polyurethane out. Then I cork up from there, for me 220, 400, 600. 220 works very well I just love the really high grit. And for 'is there noticeable sand marks' I would have to say no. When I do mine you can not see the sanding marks. But I am using Satin so that may make the difference. I do not know about semi-gloss or high-gloss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T18:48:10.310" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4302" CreationDate="2016-06-23T19:06:10.313" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;We did one, maybe two coats of polyurethane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how thick your coats are that might not be a lot of finish. Sanding might be an issue as you could easily sand down to wood after only one or two passes. I would venture carefully here if you are trying to avoid having to refinish. Honestly you might have to anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of sanding you could also consider card scraping. This would make for easier clean up. However depending on how rough the surface is it might not be the best tool. If you do need to sand consider a finer grit and try testing first where people are less likely to look. Once you remove the material you desire you might need to add another coat and/or buff the finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That roughness you speak of is likely the grain raising from the application of poly. A &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/2509/128&quot;&gt;very good related answer from Graphus&lt;/a&gt; would be worth a read here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T20:15:00.753" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4241" CreationDate="2016-06-23T21:52:04.973" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I would like to use my router table as a jointer since I can not afford the cost of a jointer itself. What modifications would I need to do to the router fence (maybe?) to make it work the best. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For jointing purposes, the main feature you need in your router table fence is independent setting for each side of the fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The left side of the fence must be set flush with the router bit cutting plane. I prefer to use a robust straight bit with a 1/2-inch shank. The right side of the fence has to be adjusted a tiny distance back, depending on the amount of material you want to remove in each pass. Less than a millimiter should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there an easy way to set the bit to the right depth? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to measure the offset length between the left side and the right side of your fence. For instance, you can put a long rule flush against the left side of the fence and measure the gap on the right side of the fence, using a feeler gauge or something like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have a straight edge in your board, you cut the opposite edge on your table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note: this procedure works well if you planed the board previously, so the edges will be made at 90° with respect to the surfaces)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2123" LastEditorUserId="2123" LastEditDate="2016-06-27T17:43:00.083" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T17:43:00.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4302" CreationDate="2016-06-24T07:02:37.257" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Could I use a high grit or wet sand paper to knock the finish down where it's smooth enough not to catch the duster? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes sand it, but no need to wet-sand or use a particularly high grit. If you were 'flatting off' and buffing/polishing the surface you'd want to do that (both wet-sand and go up to a high grit) but you can't in this case with the piece in situ and because there's not enough poly on the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also, would there be a lot of sanding marks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes there will be visible sanding scratches unless you use a very fine paper which isn't good for smoothing off rough finish. It's not just that it's inefficient (you should try to always use the coarsest paper that'll do what is needed) it'll tend to clog and you'll burn through paper fairly quickly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ideal fix for this in conventional finishing would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sand lightly following the grain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dust off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;apply one or two light coat of fresh oil-based poly (thin varnish to &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3601/what-is-the-difference-between-wiping-polyurethane-and-wiping-varnish/3602#3602&quot;&gt;wiping consistency&lt;/a&gt;, wipe or brush on)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to go to this trouble for the bookcase that's understandable, but I'd definitely do this for the tongue-and-groove in your bathroom! I've been in a house with rough wood like that on the walls, it's not pleasant when you accidentally brush against it :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A variation on this would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sand lightly in the direction of the grain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dust off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;apply a coat of paste wax and buff off after it's dry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For either of the above, use med-fine paper. That's anywhere between 240 and 320 grit and sand lightly — you're just looking to knock off the high spots, not trying to sand the surface uniformly (if you did attempt to do this you'd surely break through to bare wood in spots). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to Bob Flexner there's no need to back your paper with a block for this type of sanding, so just folding over the sandpaper and holding it in your hand is fine since you're just skimming over the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More reading from previous Answers if you're interested:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3658/how-do-i-de-nib-polyurethane-after-it-dries-but-still-maintain-its-finish/3660#3660&quot;&gt;How do I de-nib polyurethane after it dries but still maintain its finish?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2976/polyurethane-or-similar-on-multiple-sides-at-once-quickly-no-drips/2980#2980&quot;&gt;Polyurethane or similar on multiple sides at once, quickly, no drips&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative approach you might want to consider is scuffing the entire thing. This way you'll get a uniform scratched surface where the scratches from the initial sanding won't stand out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in this case you'd:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sand lightly in the direction of the grain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dust off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;go over every surface with a nylon scrubbing pad, grey Scotch-Brite or steel wool (00 grade is probably fine enough, but use 000 if you want a finer surface).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dust off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When scuffing poly like this you don't need to press hard or work the surface for very long, just a few passes using the weight of your arm is usually sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; this general method is great for converting any high-gloss finish to a semi-gloss, satin, semi-matt or matt finish, depending on how coarse the scratch pattern is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T07:02:37.257" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3932" CreationDate="2016-06-24T20:09:15.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can be assured that the actual cross-sectional dimensions are reasonably close to the nominal dimensions with KVH lumber/timber.  Realize that any cross-sectional dimension of wood is going to change depending on the humidity&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to page 7 of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodproducts.fi/sites/default/files/se_kvh_flyer_11-2012_english_light_0.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this brochure&lt;/a&gt; from WOODPRODUCTSfi the actual size is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;plus or minus 1.0 mm for dimensions less than or equal to 100 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;plus or minus 1.5 mm for dimensions greater than 100 mm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T20:09:15.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="237" CreationDate="2016-06-25T23:39:48.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Due to the size of the crack a mechanical repair would be best like the aforementioned butterfly or stitch inlay or in lieu of that an epoxy would work. I wouldn't try to color match with dust or pigment as it just plain won't match and may just become an eye sore. If you want to color it go with black or some sort of metallic mix. CA glue, aka super glue, probably won't work here - it's too large of a crack. I wouldn't do it on my bowl. Filling it with gap filling or thick CA will probably result in a mess, also CA glue is brittle while epoxy can flex a little bit with seasonal movement. I use CA glue for hairline cracks, not open, through cracks.  And you would never clamp this back into place - there is a reason it split in the first place so don't force it back. (Shrinkage, seasonal movement, too close to pith, internal stresses, etc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the epoxy generally almost any two part epoxy would do. Using blue tape, tape off one side of the crack so it doesn't just spill out all over. and fill. After dry remove tape and sand bowl or at least the local area and refinish with mineral oil, wax or a combo of those or walnut oil. Boom you're done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2401" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T23:39:48.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4310" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-26T03:45:03.007" Score="3" ViewCount="8060" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to build an &quot;X&quot; base style 8 foot dining table and I am going to use material that is about 11/16&quot; thick for the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The table will have aprons and I will be using metal &quot;z&quot; clips to attach the top to the base. I am worried that the top will be so thin that it can't hold all the weight when the table is lifted by the top. I am using SPF softwood for the top. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it common to build large dining tables with 11/16&quot; - 3/4&quot; material? Will the table top be able to handle the weight of the attached base?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2023" LastActivityDate="2017-11-04T02:30:11.260" Title="How thin is too thin for a large dining table top? Is 11/16&quot; too thin to properly attach to the table base?" Tags="|furniture|tabletop|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4310" CreationDate="2016-06-26T07:02:44.950" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on how heavy your base is going to be as that is the weight it will need to be able to hold when you pick it up but as long as you you use enough z clips to securely attach the top to the base you should be in the clear. Also I would make sure that you do not go any thinner than 11/16-3/4 as then you could run into some problems but to be safe you could always go up in thickness or even change to a hardwood as that will bend less easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for if this thickness is common on dining tables I would probably say no just since thicker tops make sturdier tables as a whole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2271" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T07:02:44.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4310" CreationDate="2016-06-26T07:15:22.190" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;11/16&quot; works out to 17.5mm and although that isn't beefy for a table of this size it doesn't seem &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; thin to me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many tables have been made with tops are under 1&quot; (25mm) thick, although the ones I'm thinking of are made from hardwoods which can be significantly stronger than SPF. But this is being very generic, which unfortunately the descriptor &quot;SPF&quot; is too as I'm sure you know. Obviously to begin you can't be certain what species you're buying in the first place and all wood does naturally vary anyway. More than that though modern 2x lumber is known for not being particularly high quality and varying &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; at the point of purchase — not hard to find, at the same store, good bad and indifferent pieces. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously I can't provide any guarantees here but I'd say this will probably be OK. You should make every effort to carefully select the pieces you intend to join to make up the tabletop though. And in case it needs to be stressed, &lt;em&gt;joint the edges well&lt;/em&gt;, weak joints will do a lot to undermine the strength of such a tabletop. Jointed properly however and it'll be like it's a single piece of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be careful about how you move the table with the base attached, but that should be standard advice with any large table. With a sufficient number of fasteners you should be able to safely lift a table of significant weight regardless of the tabletop material, even particleboard/chipboard which is notorious for not holding screws well*. Just don't expect that it can be levered off the floor by one person and you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little further reading from previous Q&amp;amp;As if needed:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1780/whats-the-best-way-to-widen-a-butcherblock-countertop/1782#1782&quot;&gt;What&amp;#39;s the best way to widen a butcherblock countertop?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/670/can-clamps-be-too-tight/711#711&quot;&gt;Can clamps be too tight?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2484/methods-of-jointing-without-a-jointer/2487#2487&quot;&gt;Methods of jointing without a jointer&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*This isn't theorising here, I'm basing this on handling much office furniture which over here invariably uses chipboard for the tops. I've never broken a top free from the base of a heavy piece, although I have seen the damaged tops where this happened, in every case I can think of it looked like too few screws were used to attach the base to the top (as few as four, not nearly enough for security with a heavy steel-framed desk).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T07:15:22.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4079" CreationDate="2016-06-26T07:31:16.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because you're working with a softwood like pine there's one very simple explanation here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The majority of hardwoods are quite uniform in density and drill fairly predictably as a result, but almost all softwoods have soft earlywood (the pale part of the grain) and &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; harder latewood (the darker stripes). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means the material is alternately hard, soft, hard, soft so it's not hard to visualise how, depending on the grain orientation, a drill bit can be working more slowly and then suddenly jump forward when it reaches a softer patch of earlywood. This can be very disconcerting and the loss of control in the drill will often lead to rougher holes than you'd like. This is one reason of many I generally drill all holes in softwood by hand, using twist bits or brad-and-spur bits in a hand drill (eggbeater type) and for larger holes a swing brace. I enjoy using vintage hand tools anyway, but the greater control offered by drilling at speeds makes it much easier to deal with this sort of thing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T07:31:16.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4316" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4322" CreationDate="2016-06-28T03:59:47.483" Score="7" ViewCount="13179" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty familiar with edge joining boards of the same width to make a panel (for a table top, cabinet door, or whatever) but I've never done a project where I also need to end join short boards, and I'm a little unsure of what order I should do the gluing in. Basically, I found several fairly short pieces of african rosewood at a great deal, and I'd like to make a desk top out of them. I'd like the desk to be 5 feet long, but most of the pieces of wood are 2.5-3 feet long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I first need to end join each board to get the overall 5' that I want, then glue those as I would any other panel? Or should I glue different length boards to the width I want, with uneven ends, and then keep gluing those until I get the length I'm looking for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, this is what I'm talking about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nr8Pu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nr8Pu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2407" LastActivityDate="2019-06-21T08:29:16.807" Title="How to join short boards to make a longer panel" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4316" CreationDate="2016-06-28T07:42:33.427" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some related info in these previous Questions:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4015/what-are-my-options-when-laminating-wood-with-butt-joints&quot;&gt;What are my options when laminating wood with butt joints?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/707/how-can-i-join-two-boards-at-the-ends&quot;&gt;How can I join two boards at the ends?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually the only reliable way of doing this sort of thing is to stagger the joints at the ends of the boards, so that they don't line up, ideally distributed through the glued-up panel as seen in much modern &quot;butcher block&quot; countertop material (e.g. from Ikea) and some tabletops on cheaper mass-produced furniture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gFoP2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gFoP2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Modern &amp;quot;butcher block&amp;quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above can and are done randomly as you can see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But because you're not doing a large field with many smaller lengths I would plan ahead where you want to place each of the shorter boards. This will help to minimise wastage as well as allow you to choose how the top surfaces of every board will go best together for best visual effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thinking about it a bit more in this case it might be best to do the joints in a regular pattern because there are so few of them, sort of making a feature of them (as in the image you posted) rather than trying to hide them as there's a limit to how much you can reduce their visibility, unless the wood is particularly uniform which I imagine is not likely given this is African rosewood!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T07:42:33.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4318" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4321" CreationDate="2016-06-28T11:41:26.793" Score="3" ViewCount="1756" Body="&lt;p&gt;What would be a smart and solid way to fasten the beams to the posts in this image. The beams will have swings for 2-3 adults hanging down from them.&#xA;The posts and the beams are 4&quot; x 4&quot; (95mm) pine and the posts are about 10 feet tall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jrsOt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jrsOt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Posts waiting for beams&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want them coming crashing down on our head while swinging. Note that this is a pentagon and the beams will form a horizontal pentagon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(note that I posted an answer below how I ended up solving it)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1793" LastEditorUserId="1793" LastEditDate="2016-07-20T11:21:47.587" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T11:21:47.587" Title="What are some good ways to fasten beams to posts for a swing?" Tags="|joinery|safety|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4316" CreationDate="2016-06-28T13:16:29.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you start at one end gluing random lengths side by side you will create a series of recesses where the next board must be slid into the recess and glued and clamped individually.  It seems that getting everything parallel would be more challenging. IF one board is not perfectly parallel with the end board with the edge , then you will be hard pressed to avoid a gap in a  joint line.  I would suggest starting on one side and gluing several rows together at a time to get the best alignment and work across the whole width.  Make sure that the boards are fully supported during glue up on a very flat table or bench since the butt joints are very weak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T13:16:29.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4318" CreationDate="2016-06-28T13:35:41.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is classic post and beam construction and there are several ways to approach the connections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way is with mortise and tenon connections.  Note the short diagonal braces connecting the horizontal and vertical parts.  These braces should be applied in both directions to stiffen the assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LaoI5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LaoI5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Post and beam detail)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A second approach would be to use steel plates on each side of the joints.  The photo is taken from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.forestryforum.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;www.forestryforum.com&lt;/a&gt; for a custom steel plate.  Your application does not have nearly the same loading requirements and could be much thinner steel. There are many commercial options found at lumberyards or home improvement stores that would  work.  If you do not like the appearance of the steel plates you can do something similar with wood plates applied to the sides of the posts and beams.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a7mtK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a7mtK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Steel plate connector&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-06-28T13:41:04.023" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T13:41:04.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4318" CreationDate="2016-06-28T14:59:13.037" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many ways this could be done, including multiple pure framing/joinery options some of which wouldn't even require any metal fasteners. These kinds of all-wood joints are best done by pros though since even though this would now fall under &quot;rough carpentry&quot; the fit would have to be at a level far in excess of what's normal for that, approaching that of cabinet work with tolerances well under 1/64&quot; ideally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more modern joinery option that first occurred to me is to cut off the ends of the five beams at the correct angle (72°) and then form half-laps on each of them so that they can interlock. The ends would look somewhat like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FdGUM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FdGUM.png&quot; alt=&quot;Half-lap ends&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://hexabana.wordpress.com/tag/half-lap-joint/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hexabana&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then drill vertically through the joint and into the top of the post for a bolt which will tie the structure together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be tempted to just used metal reinforcement plates myself though, with plenty of screws, or bolts for maximum security. Much faster and possibly more secure at the end of the day. If you use a basic T-shaped connector on the inside angles for example these can be easily bent to suit the interior angle. For the outside a basic steel band can be used, again custom bent to fit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of the main joining option used some diagonal bracing I think is a must-do, although joining a pentagonal structure to square-section beams at each corner will require some tricky fitting work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T14:59:13.037" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4316" CreationDate="2016-06-28T16:15:18.233" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/4319/93&quot;&gt;Ashlar&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/4317/93&quot;&gt;Graphus&lt;/a&gt; have addressed how to lay out the joints on the long runs, and I agree with their answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the order the joints are made, you will need to join the shorter boards into longer ones, then join the long boards to make the correct width. If you try to do it the other way - making the width first, you'll end up with very, &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; tight slots to try to slip a new, short board into, and, if your other joints were done properly, you probably won't be able to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, not specifically asked, but to make the butt joints, I'd suggested using finger joints like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodgears.ca/box_joint/fingerjoint.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://woodgears.ca/box_joint/fingerjoint.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://woodgears.ca/box_joint/fingerjoint.jpg&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image borrowed from woodgears.ca &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodgears.ca/box_joint/fingerjoint.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;page&lt;/a&gt; on different finger joints.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;However&lt;/strong&gt;, I'd suggest you'll want to use a finger joint router bit like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jebzj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jebzj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://www.toolstoday.com/images/Product/medium/5842.jpg&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image borrowed from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.toolstoday.com/p-5842-finger-joint-router-bit.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;toolstoday.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you want the joint to be hidden from the surface, not visible and highlighted. Though, making the joint visible on the surface (as in my first image) would make your project quite unique!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2019-06-21T08:29:16.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4323" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-28T18:17:31.547" Score="4" ViewCount="991" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a very unique &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Newel&quot;&gt;newel post&lt;/a&gt; for the indoor winding stairs of my barn house. I have a cherry log that is of ample length and approximately 10 inches in diameter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am picturing is a hollowed, naturally-finished log with randomly placed and shaped holes for stained glass, as well as holes to display artistic glass marbles and other pieces made by my sons (who are professionals in that field). The post would be lighted from within, have an equally unique top, probably also lighted, and at least one secret compartment. It is acceptable to me if there is a narrow section that needs to be removed for the hollowing out process, if that piece can then be replaced as a hinged door. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can handle the lighting, routing, holes, secret compartment, etc., but am, frankly, baffled as to the best way to hollow out a log that is approximately 10&quot; x 48&quot;. Does anyone have any ideas about this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2409" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-06-29T00:25:57.887" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T20:47:27.663" Title="How can I hollow a cherry log to use as a newel post?" Tags="|tool-selection|hollowing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4324" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4330" CreationDate="2016-06-28T22:03:47.157" Score="4" ViewCount="2766" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a tiny (almost &quot;toy&quot;) lathe, for turning wood. The problem is the chisel I got with it was &lt;em&gt;totally&lt;/em&gt; a toy; total crap made of some bendy, soft iron I ruined on the first try. The lathe, tiny as it is, is quite neat, but I really need a better tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked up turning chisels, and they are expensive (and I'm short on cash after the lathe purchase). I happen to have a neat set of small sculptor chisels though, and I wonder if I can use them instead. I'd &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; try but I'm afraid I'm going to ruin the nice chisels too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The length/leverage should not be a problem - the lathe being so tiny, the rest for the chisel comes really close to the material. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2408" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T08:09:22.510" Title="Can I use sculptor chisels with a lathe?" Tags="|tool-selection|turning|chisel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4323" CreationDate="2016-06-29T00:41:49.193" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Consider cutting in two along its length&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I know there are techniques and tools that you can use to hollow the inside of this long piece of cherry I honestly think you might have an easier time with this project if you cut it down the middle along its length first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try this in one of two ways&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZQezy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZQezy.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cross section&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Working on a better picture but this should suffice for now&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Straight down the middle, like in the first picture, and then hollow both sides. Or trim of one side and then hollow the larger piece. I would use a bandsaw with a good fence to make this cut in either case.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I would go for the second picture as you can reassemble it with common hardware once complete. You can even make you own wood plug, with the stock that you remove, to cover the screw holes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Removing the core&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a table saw that can cut deep enough I would try to us that to make cuts along the length of the wood. Work slowly but not too much as you can burn the wood and hurt the blade. Make many of these cuts that are, I would think, minimum 1/4&quot; apart. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enough of those cuts will make it so you can easily remove the wood with a chisel. Remember that you do not have to cut too deep like my picture suggests. Just enough to satisfy your needs of course. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on you cut of wood this could be beneficial as doing this could remove the heartwood from the piece and possibly discourage checking of the wood over time. This would also make it easier to add your embellishments and work with the lighting hardware e.g. mounting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2016-06-29T20:47:27.663" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T20:47:27.663" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4326" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-29T02:52:51.470" Score="2" ViewCount="632" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a door with a transom that I need to fabricate a divider for, which consists of two differently sized pieces of wood, each with a bevelled groove.  One is 2-1/4&quot; x 3/4&quot; and the other is 1-7/8&quot; x 1-1/4&quot;.  I do have a Bosch router and am skilled at using it (I made really nice window stool edges) but I don't know where to find bits that can make these grooves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pictures are attached (from another door that is identical and for which I was able to restore the old ones but for this one the old ones are too rotten).  The good picture is the thinner and wider, the bad one is the fatter and narrower.  The grooves are similar shape but different width, which is why I suspect they would require different router bits. Which router bit(s) I should get?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nNOE2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nNOE2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HYGCr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HYGCr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="328" LastActivityDate="2017-01-03T21:33:19.847" Title="Finding router bits to make decorative trim grooves" Tags="|router-bit|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4327" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4334" CreationDate="2016-06-29T03:32:53.973" Score="5" ViewCount="835" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking into HEPA vacuums and dust extractors and I found Festool. Does anyone know whether we can attach non-Festool tools to their dust extractors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2411" LastEditorUserId="2411" LastEditDate="2016-07-07T04:14:15.397" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T04:14:15.397" Title="Can you use Festool dust extraction with non-Festool tools?" Tags="|tools|dust-collection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4328" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4332" CreationDate="2016-06-29T04:10:28.623" Score="2" ViewCount="1011" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Carbide grade tools like router bits, saw blades, etc. like everybody else. There are grades C2, C3 and C4, most of my tools are C3. They do say that it is brittle and if it hits the ground or something it shatters. I have dropped it a few times by accident but they never have broken before. Which makes me have the question as to how much it takes to break the carbide of the tools. Does it take a certain amount of pressure (like pounds or something) of impact for the carbide to shatter? Or is the cracking so small that I have no idea because it is so hard to see?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-06-29T16:44:33.943" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T12:04:22.507" Title="How brittle is carbide?" Tags="|carbide|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4324" CreationDate="2016-06-29T04:23:46.070" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally wouldn't try - most sculpting chisels are relatively small, whereas for lathe work you want a reasonable length to maximise leverage. (eg so you can safely/easily hold the chisel)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also suspect the handle on the sculpting chisel would not be strong enough to withstand the lateral  force from the lathe. (Normally they take a vertical force ie from a hammer, or from a hand)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="282" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T04:23:46.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4324" CreationDate="2016-06-29T08:09:22.510" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The following may read like I am trying to talk you out of the idea but I'm not, just hoping to help you go into it with realistic expectations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can I use sculptor chisels with a lathe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, although I think you'd very quickly want to use some purpose-made turning tools if you start to do much turning, you can definitely use tools not designed for turning (see bottom point).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two main issues I think, number one being safety (primarily, securely holding on to the chisel during use) and edge wear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Safety&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Even with a very small lathe the levering force from fast-spinning wood shouldn't be underestimated, particularly if a tip digs in which happens to nearly everyone at some point the potential for the tool to be snatched from the hand is greater than you're probably thinking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this Answer for a little on turning safety: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1304/what-do-i-need-to-know-for-basic-lathe-safety/1305#1305&quot;&gt;What do I need to know for basic lathe safety?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also the issue of the toll on the tool itself, edge failure (not merely blunting which I cover next, but chipping), possible bending of the blade lower down near the handle and last but not least a crack forming in the handle (even with a tight-fitting ferrule in place).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edge wear&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Almost every carving chisel will be a type of high-carbon steel, which will wear much more quickly than HSS, now regarded as the minimum standard for the metal for a turning tool. The harder and tougher the wood the more you'll need to sharpen, and without exaggeration this might mean you need to stop to re-sharpen every couple of minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, historically we had no HSS or carbide-tipped tools of course. Until very recently all turning was done using some kind of high-carbon steel, so there's no technical reason it can't be done, it's just that you will need to sharpen much more frequently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related to this, &lt;strong&gt;edge geometry&lt;/strong&gt; — because of the stress on the edge, even when using much stronger steels it's common for turning tools to be sharpened to a much steeper bevel angle than you'd use on carving or bench chisels. Gouges for example can have a 70° outcannel bevel, not the 25-30° more common on a carving gouge, so once converted the tools will require a lot of work (i.e. a lot of metal will need to be ground off) to change them back to the kind of geometry that's better for carving. So you can't really expect the same tools to do double duty I'm afraid, broadly speaking it's one or the other and not both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I say above, despite how it may come across I don't want to dissuade you from trying this. After all many people have made their own turning tools from screwdrivers (mainly scrapers and parting tools) and &lt;em&gt;usually without further hardening the tip&lt;/em&gt; and that is saying something as screwdriver tips are deliberately not made as hard as the steel can get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nfuV4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nfuV4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shop-made turning tools&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Source:&lt;/strong&gt; American Woodworker, Feb 1994.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For extra penny-pinching points, assuming it's not too late, don't throw away the crappy tool you got with the lathe. Despite how bendy it was it may still be made of tool steel, just not hardened properly. If that is so you can harden it yourself fairly easily at some point in the future. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For very basic heat treatment the equipment needed is modest — a small gas torch and a metal container of oil for quenching, nothing more. You can then temper the steel using the torch, or for a little extra control by heating and cooling in a domestic oven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may also prove useful: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3374/how-can-i-tell-if-wood-turning-lathe-chisels-are-sharp/3377?s=3|1.1091#3377&quot;&gt;How can I tell if wood turning (lathe) chisels are sharp?&lt;/a&gt; Sharp turning tools are very important, as is always the case with edge tools when sharp they give a better surface and are safer in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T08:09:22.510" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4328" CreationDate="2016-06-29T08:24:59.533" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;How brittle is carbide?&quot; is a little like asking &quot;How rubbery is rubber?&quot; It depends on the rubber how firm or rubbery it is, same in reverse for carbide. The information provided in your previous Question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3823/tungsten-carbide-grades&quot;&gt;Tungsten Carbide grades&lt;/a&gt; would allow you to Google the technical specs for the various grades. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way of answering the question on a practical level is that carbide is innately brittle, it will crack or chip before it will bend or fold as you can get on many equivalent steel tools or components. As such every care should be taken not to drop it on a hard floor as it can and does fracture, possible rendering the blade or bit unsafe for use (think &lt;em&gt;shrapnel&lt;/em&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T08:24:59.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4328" CreationDate="2016-06-29T09:46:07.170" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends what it falls on :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I worked with a CNC mill, letting the tool drop 30cm from the spindle onto the steel worktable would practically inevitably chip it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OTOH they would occasionally roll off the utility table about 120cm tall, onto linoleum floor and I never chipped one that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the damage is usually small and localized; a ~1mm chipped corner or such - hard to notice unless you inspect the tool closely. It matters a lot with precise machining of small metal elements, but may go unnoticed with large tools for woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: (I finished reading the question.) The tools are very durable against constant pressure type stress, very hard and difficult to break. They are vulnerable to shock though - impact against a hard object, and with  carbide tools &quot;hard&quot; needs to be really hard - brass counts as &quot;soft&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2408" LastEditorUserId="2408" LastEditDate="2016-06-29T19:41:01.703" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T19:41:01.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4333" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-29T11:47:05.770" Score="5" ViewCount="10091" Body="&lt;p&gt;I require full overlay hinges for a face framed wardrobe which I have built. Now the frame is 47mm and the MDF side panels are 9mm thick, making a distance of 56mm for the 18mm thick wardrobe door to overlay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm confused as to whether I can just order any full overlay hinges or if there is a specific size for my frame thickness? When I look at these hinges I do not see any specification for frame thickness, just cup size and door thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2413" LastActivityDate="2016-07-03T18:34:43.457" Title="Do full overlay hinges come in different sizes for different frame thicknesses?" Tags="|cabinetry|hinges|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4327" CreationDate="2016-06-29T12:11:31.373" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes this is not a problem however you won't get the anti-static properties. Depending on the tool you might need an adapter to match the tools dust port size. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T12:11:31.373" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4326" CreationDate="2016-06-29T20:28:43.617" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a bit difficult to tell from your photos (2D pictures just don't do 3D very well), but the bottom one looks like a simple dado cut would do it. I have a feeling that some significant amount of detail is missing from the picture in the greenish area, thought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top picture looks like you could cut the profile on the edges of a piece of wood, then cut the profile off at the required width and add it to a piece of flat stock to create the final profile. I think building it up that way would be much easier than trying to hog out all that wood from the middle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to build it out of one piece of wood, use a dado to clear enough room in the center that you can cut the two profiles with the router. By leaving some wood down the middle, you'll have something to support your free-hand router. Then, once you've profiled it, use the dado to clear out the rest of the middle. Of course, if the router is table mounted, that's not as important since you can rest both narrow edges on the table top, but it would make the piece more stable while routing with a center ridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may not be able to find a single bit to cut your entire profile, though. You can either get a custom bit ground (cabinet shops often do this, but &lt;em&gt;$$$$$&lt;/em&gt;...), or use a combination of several bits to cut small portions of the profile at a time. Identify a bit that will cut a piece, then figure out which order to use them in to safely make the final profile without damaging previously cut areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T20:28:43.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4336" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4338" CreationDate="2016-06-29T21:55:19.413" Score="7" ViewCount="604" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nTqvb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nTqvb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a photo of the floor I plan to install in my barn house. I have a great source for the wood, but it is all in &quot;chunks&quot; that are approximately 9&quot;x11&quot;x14&quot;. My (old) table saw blade doesn't raise high enough to easily cut even halfway through, my 12&quot; miter saw won't accommodate them, I don't have a band saw (but might have to buy or borrow one), and I can't cut consistently enough with a chain saw. Is there an option I'm overlooking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2409" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T17:29:35.500" Title="What is the best way to slice CHUNKS of wood?" Tags="|technique|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4337" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4340" CreationDate="2016-06-30T02:15:55.827" Score="3" ViewCount="1076" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to stain a piece of wood for the last few days that refuses to take stain. Started by sanding the original finish and using Rustoleum Kona stain that did not really apply to the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I used a stripper, sanded the wood first with coarse then with fine sandpaper and tried again. That gave me a blotchy finish and barely took as well so I stripped and sanded again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I used Minwax Wood Conditioner and applied a new Minwax ebony stain which took just about as awful as the first stain. Here's a picture after 2 coats of the the ebony stain:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/38yam.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Brown plank of wood, not darkened after two coats of ebony&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does it refuse to stain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2414" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2016-06-30T11:57:34.357" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T06:40:17.620" Title="Stain won't take on wood stair nose" Tags="|wood|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4336" CreationDate="2016-06-30T04:03:55.793" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are several options that come to mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut smaller pieces&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a bandsaw with resaw capacity of at least 9&quot; (many 14&quot; or larger bandsaws either come stock with 11-12&quot; resaw capacity, or can be upgraded with a riser block)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a saw with a significantly larger circular blade&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut as deep as you can on both sides, then finish the job with a hand saw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a chainsaw mill (aka Alaska mill)--basically a guide for your chainsaw. It will require a fair amount of cleanup but it will be much less than if you make the cuts freehand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have someone else with larger or more appropriate equipment cut the pieces for you--either hire a sawmill or make a new friend, perhaps someone in a local woodworking club.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Ashlar semi-jokingly noted in a comment, you could use a handsaw exclusively, but that would not be a fast or easy task, especially if you want to crosscut the pieces as illustrated in the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2016-06-30T04:10:16.370" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T04:10:16.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4339" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-30T05:36:40.900" Score="6" ViewCount="7990" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has been raining all night and the wood is thoroughly wet. I want to screw on the ceiling plates (and apply the epdm on it). It doesn't seem like a good idea to my, because wood expands when it is wet and when the wood is dry again and shrunken a bit, there will be margin between the beams and the plates right? It's Douglas wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CFzHi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CFzHi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2331" LastEditorUserId="2331" LastEditDate="2016-06-30T14:36:04.243" LastActivityDate="2016-07-02T06:50:07.393" Title="The wooden frame is wet and it's raining. Should I mount the roof now?" Tags="|wood|douglas-fir|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4337" CreationDate="2016-06-30T14:27:18.847" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's very hard to be sure but that doesn't look like it's a known blotch-prone species. If so that you are getting blotching is a sure sign that the wood is contaminated. Although you've stripped and sanded you haven't gotten deep enough to expose completely fresh wood, without a trace of the original varnish and/or any floor polish applied over the years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to try to get deeper I would suggest you scrape instead of sand (I will nearly always recommend scraping over sanding anyway) but to be quite honest I'd be tempted to just use &quot;gel stain&quot; myself and sidestep the problem entirely. So-called gel stains aren't stain in the conventional sense, they're jellied coloured varnishes and they're the ideal pick for blotch-prone woods and troublesome staining jobs like this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gel stain unfortunately is not the perfect finish for areas of high wear since if (when) it wears off you'll expose the uncoloured wood beneath. So after you've achieved the colour you want I would recommend applying at least two or three coats of a floor-grade clear varnish as protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-07-01T06:40:17.620" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T06:40:17.620" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4339" CreationDate="2016-06-30T14:43:30.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't if you can wait. It would be better to let the wood dry out before you work on the roof further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't worry too much about the wood itself as wood won't normally get damaged by being wet like this over a limited timeframe. And you don't have to be overly concerned about the structure, although ideally you protect any part-built wooden structure with tarpaulins or plastic sheeting in case of rain it's very common for roof framing to get wet during building work in any wet climate. It doesn't seem to affect the strength of the finished roofs, at least not enough for it to be a problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It doesn't seem like a good idea to my, because wood expands when it is wet and when the wood is dry again and shrunken a bit, there will be margin between the beams and the plates right? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood expands and contracts across the grain, there's virtually zero movement along the length of a board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason not to do this is ideally you shouldn't drive fasteners into wet wood, particularly nails. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-07-02T06:50:07.393" LastActivityDate="2016-07-02T06:50:07.393" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4339" CreationDate="2016-06-30T14:45:16.220" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no real harm in proceeding with the deck.  The wood is a bit wet, but will dry out from air movement in short order with no real risk of mold or other damage occurring. This type of structure is quite flexible and will easily absorb any movement from swelling or shrinkage (which will be very minor anyways). Wood framed homes and other structures often get wet during construction and the work recommences as soon as the rain stops.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T14:45:16.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4343" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4344" CreationDate="2016-06-30T17:24:52.643" Score="8" ViewCount="16432" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a table top from some oak planks that I have. The oak is about 1&quot; x 6&quot; x 8' each. Is using pocket holes and glue an appropriate method for edge-joining the planks together to make the table top? The other option I have is using biscuits. I'm leaning towards the pocket holes so I won't have to deal with all the clamping that would be needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1172" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T07:58:12.663" Title="Make a table top using pocket holes?" Tags="|technique|joinery|tabletop|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4343" CreationDate="2016-06-30T21:25:33.327" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;For strength, a good glue bond is all you need.  If you want to minimize clamping, you could use pocket screws, but I would recommend against it.  When you tighten a pocket screw, it tends to pull the boards slightly out of alignment unless you first have the boards well clamped, and if you already have them clamped, why bother with the pocket hole screws?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could use biscuits or dowels (or dominos) to aid in the alignment, but none of those will replace clamping.  I find it is really fastest, and easiest to just glue and clamp.  You can do the glue up in stages to make things easier - glue up groups of two or three boards, then after they are dry, glue the groups together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastEditorUserId="286" LastEditDate="2016-06-30T22:33:18.817" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T22:33:18.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4343" CreationDate="2016-07-01T07:58:12.663" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Much useful related info in these previous Questions:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/229/what-is-a-good-way-to-prevent-jointed-tabletops-from-bowing-when-tightening-fast&quot;&gt;What is a good way to prevent jointed tabletops from bowing when tightening fasteners or the glue sets?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3685/do-pocket-hole-screws-allow-for-proper-expansion-and-contraction-in-planked-tabl&quot;&gt;Do pocket hole screws allow for proper expansion and contraction in planked table tops?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pocket screws are a fast-and-dirty way of joining wood. Where speed is of the essence or clamp numbers are limited what they allow is for clamped-up glued wood joints to have the clamps released as soon as the screws are driven home, since they then act as clamps to keep the joint closed while the glue sets. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm leaning towards the pocket holes so I won't have to deal with all the clamping that would be needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see from the above there's a problem with the idea that using the pocket screws will save a lot of time here, since to do a good job the tabletop should be clamped up well before the screws are driven home, and if it's clamped anyway why use the screws at all? After all they provide little added strength, and if the joints are &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1780/whats-the-best-way-to-widen-a-butcherblock-countertop/1782#1782&quot;&gt;done properly&lt;/a&gt; no added strength is needed since the joints are at least as strong as the wood around them*.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re. biscuits, in case you don't know, when jointing tabletops their primary role is as &lt;em&gt;alignment aids&lt;/em&gt; during construction, they don't add the strength that people often believe they do. In fact the more you add the weaker the joint can become (still very strong, but weaker than a continuous long-grain joint which is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4233/what-are-the-different-grain-directions-and-how-do-they-affect-joint-strength&quot;&gt;strongest of all glue joints&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's another reason to possibly want to avoid using biscuits for this type of joinery work and that is &quot;telegraphing&quot;, where the positions of biscuits can become visible on the finished panel as localised raised or sunken areas. 1&quot; material isn't that thin that you should really have to worry about this but ideally you'd want to centre the biscuits in the thickness if that's possible. If not, they should be closer to what will be the bottom of the tabletop, not the top face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Some woodworkers using pocket holes when making glued-up panels actually withdraw the screws later because they serve no useful purpose once the glue has cured. And of course this allows the screws to be re-used elsewhere :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T07:58:12.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4328" CreationDate="2016-07-01T19:18:12.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have dropped carbide router bits on the floor a couple of times and nothing has happened. I once dropped my router with a straight bit installed in it and one of the carbide cutters cracked (Murphy's law). The router did not suffer any damage at all, but added momentum for the impact. Fortunately the crack was easily visible and I could discard the router bit before I was exposed to a projectile incident. I recommend careful inspection of carbide cutters with a magnifying lense if they hit against something hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2123" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T19:18:12.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3889" CreationDate="2016-07-02T14:35:02.130" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apply a thin coat of clear to the edges. This will seal it, then apply the thicker coats. You can use 5 minute epoxy or mix the sealer layer a bit hot.  Very thin, but enough to coat the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2419" LastActivityDate="2016-07-02T14:35:02.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4350" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4351" CreationDate="2016-07-03T04:18:37.283" Score="5" ViewCount="5567" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can make aluminum tools here at home. I can melt metal and anything like copper to 2000 F degrees. Would aluminum not be a good idea when it comes to tools? I want to make a thing for a lathe like a flat edge. But with it being aluminum would it keep its edge on wood? Would it bend? What if I used copper; would it still keep its edge or not and bend like aluminum? I am very curious as to what will happen, and if it is a good idea or not. If not why is it such a bad idea. I know it will more than likely not last as long as steel on wood but does anybody have a guess?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="94" LastEditDate="2016-07-18T23:29:03.990" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T23:29:03.990" Title="Should I use aluminum and copper to make woodworking tools?" Tags="|hand-tools|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4350" CreationDate="2016-07-03T04:56:07.907" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short, copper and aluminum are soft metals, and you'd need to consider the quality of the casting and the metallurgical treatment of the tool as well. It sounds like a fun project, but watch out for potential catastrophic failure of the tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first metal tools used by man were copper and copper alloys (bronze and brass). The main problem with these metals is that they are much softer than steel, thus holding an edge for less time and also in a greater risk of bending the tool itself (and not just the cutting edge). Aluminum in pure form (i.e. not an alloy of aluminum) is even softer than copper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A further issue is with the quality of the casting. How well can you create a uniform alloy and then cast it so that the finished tool will not have any voids or weak spots due to poorly mixed alloy or other flaws? Any such issues will impact the strength of the tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, there is a large difference in metal hardness with different treatment methods after the initial casting. Metals most often can be annealed (softened), tempered (toughened) and hardened. A good tool steel alloy can be hardened to twice (or more) the hardness of the original steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now for some numbers (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hardness_comparison&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;comparing different hardness scales&lt;/a&gt; is difficult, but just so that you have the right impression):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On the most commonly used &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rockwell_scale&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rockwell hardness scale&lt;/a&gt;, steel and copper/aluminum don't even use the same scale (there are HRC for steels and HRB for softer metals). Typical tool steel is about 60 HRC, while brass (which is harder than pure copper) is about 70 HRB. However, 70 HRB is much softer than even 1 HRC.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brinell_scale&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brinell hardness scale&lt;/a&gt;, tool steel has a hardness of about 700, while aluminum is 15 and copper is 35. And just for comparison, hardwoods have a hardness of 3 to 7, so your aluminum tool might be only slightly harder than the wood it is cutting. I would imagine it would be like cutting pine with an oak chisel. The most dense hardwoods are probably even harder than copper (woods like Lignum Vitae).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, since you are asking about tools for a lathe, I would be very careful. Lathes exert a lot of force on the turning chisels, and it might cause a catastrophic failure, especially if there is some flaw or void in the casting. The tool might snap suddenly, sending shards flying at high speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end, it does sound like a nice project to try out, but I would start from tools that don't have such a high risk of damage. A marking knife would be a good start - it will allow you to assess the edge holding capabilities of the metal you are working, and would be pretty safe should the tool suddenly break. Then I would step up to small hand chisels (not for lathe work) and then progress from there if results are satisfactory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastEditorUserId="94" LastEditDate="2016-07-18T23:26:29.603" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T23:26:29.603" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4333" CreationDate="2016-07-03T18:34:43.457" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are dealing with two different measurements here, frame width and frame thickness. I'm not entirely sure which you are referring to, so I'll cover both. Also, you can reference this useful page: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/how-to/glossary-cabinet-hinge-terms/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Glossary of Cabinet Hinge Terms&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An Overlay door will cover over (lay over) part of the face frame of the cabinet opening. As opposed to an Inset, or Inlay, door which goes inside the opening, flush with the face:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rPnZ3.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rPnZ3.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &amp;quot;Full&amp;quot; Overlay normally means it overlays 3/4&amp;quot; inch. This is because it is made to fully overlap a 3/4&amp;quot; faceless plywood end. These will often be intended for &lt;strong&gt;side mount&lt;/strong&gt;ed hinges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KpeHB.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KpeHB.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Face Frame Width&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Full overlay would work for you, but you can pick any specific overlay measurement you like where X in a &amp;quot;X&amp;quot; Overlay means the amount it overlaps. 1 1/4&amp;quot; is common for cabinets that DO have face frames (sounds like you do?). You will want &lt;strong&gt;frame mount&lt;/strong&gt;ed hinges, preferably (see below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pzJAh.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pzJAh.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Face Frame Thickness&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the next thing you need to consider is how thick the material you used for the face frame is. Common thickness in the USA is 3/4&amp;quot; material. Most frame mount hinges are made to mount on 3/4&amp;quot; unless specified differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Solutions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good European-style concealed hinge will be adjustable &lt;strong&gt;3 ways&lt;/strong&gt;. Meaning you can adjust it in/out, up/down, and left/right. As long as your frame is 5/8&amp;quot; to 13/16&amp;quot; (in my experience) it can be adjusted to fit decently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your face frame is thinner or thicker than that, you may need to find specialty hinges, or use a side bracket mounted hinge that goes around the face-frame &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hardwaresource.com/hinges/cabinet-hinges/blum-grass-european-hinges/standard-european-style-hinges/mounting-plates-for-blum-hinges/blum-clip-top-mounting-plates-for-frameless-cabinets-1&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;such as these&lt;/a&gt;. You will just have to add blocking to the inside to bring the mount out flush with the inside of the frame:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qKob0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qKob0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;This will work regardless the thickness of your face frame. They could be 2x4 for all they care!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Big thanks to the resources at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rockler Woodworking and Hardware&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2016-07-03T18:34:43.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4350" CreationDate="2016-07-04T18:53:05.593" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;With such soft tools you might make tools that are supposed to dent instead of cut hardwood.  I am thinking of position adjusters like hammers and small sledges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A copper hammer for your chisels would be nice. Aluminium is too light I guess but why not try?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make corners and decorations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make some nice tool holders, steam punk style, and take advantage of the metal being strong while not denting the tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make jigs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastEditorUserId="94" LastEditDate="2016-07-18T23:28:00.733" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T23:28:00.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4355" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-05T13:30:21.887" Score="6" ViewCount="1893" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using an Ash slab for bathroom vanity top, what is best for sealing and protecting wood from water. Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2431" LastActivityDate="2020-10-24T11:57:00.733" Title="Protecting against water damage" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4355" CreationDate="2016-07-05T14:56:48.917" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a few options that will provide decent waterproofing, including varnish, lacquer and a one-shot poured finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest and probably most economical is polyurethane varnish. It's not the fastest (a pour-on coating would be quickest) but it is simple to apply to a good standard for even the first-timer, by just diluting it somewhat with mineral spirits/white spirit to convert it to &amp;quot;wiping varnish&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two additional advantages of thinning varnish to wiping consistency are that you don't need to buy brushes or rollers and you won't face the hassle of cleaning them afterward. You will need a supply of clean rags (e.g. scraps of old t-shirts or cotton bedsheets), which must be disposable as you'll let them harden after you're done and then throw them away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wiped-on applications of diluted varnish take from a few hours to overnight to harden enough for the next coat, depending on how thickly you apply it, how much you wipe away* and your local temperature and humidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend you apply at least four to six coats, so finishing will take you from a few days to about a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*You can wipe away all, some or none of the excess of wiping varnish. It will harden fully regardless of how much you leave on the surface, but takes longer the thicker the film left on the wood. The flip side of this is that is builds a film more quickly too, reducing the number of coats needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little more detail can be found here on Popular Woodworking, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/finishing/wiping-varnish-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wiping Varnish – What is it?&lt;/a&gt; from finishing guru Bob Flexner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2020-10-24T11:57:00.733" LastActivityDate="2020-10-24T11:57:00.733" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4350" CreationDate="2016-07-06T11:53:00.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a former machinist, aluminum for turning tools is a &quot;no-go&quot;. Sorry. But, you can fashion a beautiful dead-blow hammer from raw aluminum. And a lot of other great gadgets to compliment you woodworking.&#xA;I would be interested in seeing and purchasing a dead-blow hammer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2433" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T11:53:00.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4328" CreationDate="2016-07-06T12:04:22.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with the other answers... carbide will break or shatter, but only if hitting something extremely hard.... usually metal in my experience.&#xA;I've dropped carbide tool bits and end-mills before and they've bounced off a wood floor, chipped concrete, but dropped 8 inches onto the metal ways of a lathe, chipped the end off. I think it all depends on the way they fall and hit the other surface. hope that helps your understanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2433" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T12:04:22.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4359" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4360" CreationDate="2016-07-07T17:16:56.997" Score="4" ViewCount="2834" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have little to no knowledge on wood and woodworking. That's why I'm here. I got my hands on a piece of Desert Ironwood that I would like to use for a knife handle. I am worried since this wood is extremely hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What precautions should I take before/while cutting it? (It's a pretty small piece and all I have to cut it straight is a table saw.) &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Since I would like to make my knife handle as tough as possible. I wonder what I should use to treat the wood in order to protect it as much as possible while still keeping the beautiful grain that Ironwood has. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please excuse my lack of knowledge and my bad English. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2438" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2016-07-08T20:58:21.713" LastActivityDate="2016-07-08T20:58:21.713" Title="What are the precautions to take when working with Desert Ironwood" Tags="|wood|cutting|physical-protection|process|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4359" CreationDate="2016-07-07T20:13:36.137" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cut slowly. Watch out for kickback. Be aware that blades/bits will dull faster than they would on a softer wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what family &quot;desert ironwood&quot; belongs to, but Ipe (the most common &quot;ironwood&quot; sold in this area), like many tropical hardwoods, can cause allergies in some people due to the same chemicals that make them naturally resistant to insects and rot. Use dust collection, use a mask, shower afterwards to get the sawdust off your skin. I believe the issue is mostly sawdust, since that's the extended contact over wide surface area; as far as I know your knife scales should be OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I haven't run Ipe thru my table saw yet, but the guys using it as decking seem to do OK with carbide blades, and it bandsaws reasonably so far.  Ipe is being used for decking due to its rot resistance; it has the advantages of real wood while lasting as long as the plastic/composite solutions. If you want more detail you should probably ask over in Home Improvement ... But this means you can sometimes get small offcuts of Ipe free by asking a decking team for their scraps before those get dumpstered. I have a few cubic feet obtained by cleaning up after a ramp was built in a local park.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re retaining the natural color: Wood tends to bleach under UV light. Look for a spar varnish or similar transparent topcoat that contains good ultraviolet blockers. Though realistically, a pocket knife spends most of its life shaded.... and the decking seems to regain a lot of its color when wet, so this may be mostly a surface effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2016-07-08T17:05:41.623" LastActivityDate="2016-07-08T17:05:41.623" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4359" CreationDate="2016-07-08T00:11:36.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As said above make sure you are cutting slowly. I do have other things to say on that along with his answer on the blade dulls &lt;em&gt;fast&lt;/em&gt;. My neighbors have worked with it and have talked about how it even caused a spark, be true or not. Take cautions. Have protective head over blade, use push sticks with both hands. (Unless you have at least 8&quot; from the blade to the fence then I would say fine. But keep the stick on the side of the blade). If you are cutting a little peace I would suggest not tempting right off the saw. I would try getting as thin as possible but keep it at a safer range. I do 1/4&quot;. Then just go over to a belt sander (if you have one) and what I do is I flip it upside down. Your more than likely not going to have a variable speed but I keep mine just fast enough where it still spins while keeping some pressure. Then keep going till you have hit your desired thickness. Of course I am only implying if you are doing something that thin. And listen to what Keshlam says about the allergy and the covering of the knife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2016-07-08T00:11:36.623" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4362" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-08T00:42:06.913" Score="3" ViewCount="259" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a standard distance or formula for where to put standards for adjustable shelves? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/zinc-shelf-standards-select-length&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rockler.com/zinc-shelf-standards-select-length&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2439" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T20:02:53.333" Title="Where do I put the standards for adjustable shelves?" Tags="|furniture|cabinetry|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4362" CreationDate="2016-07-08T03:18:04.903" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not that I know of. I did do a little research but found nothing. So I assume there is nothing with it. Besides that I do think there is no such thing. My bookshelf has a spacing of 3/4 in. While the product you have on this website shows 1/2. So in the end I would go off of your like or convenience. The norm for shelf distance is about 12-15&quot;. But again, it is all off your liking&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2016-07-08T03:18:04.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4362" CreationDate="2016-07-08T08:12:48.773" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are no set distances for shelf standards, the reason being that how close together you want or need them to be depends on various factors, including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shelf material&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shelf thickness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The expected load on the shelf&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The distribution of the load&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Material&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For an equivalent thickness particleboard/chipboard sags more readily than oak, pine sags more readily than plywood and so forth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thickness&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Thicker material resist sagging more than thinner material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Weight&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Heavy power tools or numerous hardcover reference books will obviously tend to cause sagging more than a few softcover books or some knick-knacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Distribution&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is under-appreciated as a factor in how you mount, and subsequently load, shelves. General advice to help prevent shelves from bowing includes not mounting the brackets right at the ends (although this is sometimes unavoidable and with some shelf material it's fine, especially if the loads are going to be light) and not positioning heavy items in the centre of a shelf as this exerts the greatest bending force. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Distribution of the load across the width of a shelf, or putting the heaviest items right over the supports can often be advised. Another method that's not as commonly recommended is for when the brackets are not mounted right at the ends of a shelf, and here you can put heavy items on each end (outboard of the brackets) which can counterbalance the tendency towards sagging from a heavy load in the middle, within reason. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need more specifics than can be provided here so visit one of the go-to resources online, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip01.html&quot;&gt;the Sagulator&lt;/a&gt;, if you need to calculate how much sagging you can expect for your chosen shelf material. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also like to read &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip01.html&quot;&gt;Shelving Spans for Bookcases&lt;/a&gt; on the Woodsmith etips site, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.compositepanel.org/userfiles/filemanager/78/&quot;&gt;this PDF&lt;/a&gt; from the Composite Panel Associations, a technical bulletin on the use of particleboard and MDF for shelving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-07-08T08:12:48.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4362" CreationDate="2016-07-08T15:33:22.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those standards that you linked to are usually placed in pairs at both (in) sides of the case. I've never used them as I just drill a line of holes to hold shelf pins. It's the same idea, just cheaper once you've got the drilling jig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I space a line of holes approx. 1.5 - 2 inches in from the front edge and from the back, so I would say you could also space the standards similarly. It's what I would do if I used them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no prescribed distance, but if you put them to close together, the shelf may tilt depending on placement of the load. To far apart - to close to the front/back edges - may not look as nice. It's a bit of a judgement call.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/knbkv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/knbkv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2444" LastActivityDate="2016-07-08T15:33:22.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4366" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-08T20:27:35.780" Score="1" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first plan and it is supposed to be a bunk bed for two kids. The lower mattress (120 x 160cm) is at the floor level. The frame material is 70x70mm pine. The tall pillars extend till the ceiling and there will be a cargo net like safety net.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I missing something crucial and any recommendations for the joints? Most of the joints should be possible to take apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tsH98.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tsH98.png&quot; alt=&quot;bunk bed with mattresses&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/df4ij.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/df4ij.png&quot; alt=&quot;Updated joints&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I updated the close up. I would secure these with long screws. The bottoms of the pillars are still a bit of a head ache.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2432" LastEditorUserId="2432" LastEditDate="2016-07-09T20:41:50.993" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T20:41:50.993" Title="Is this bunk bed design feasible?" Tags="|joinery|furniture|design|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2016-07-10T17:42:13.337" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4367" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4368" CreationDate="2016-07-08T23:46:53.083" Score="4" ViewCount="30527" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use mineral oil when I make cutting boards because it makes it pop. But I have not been finding any. Would baby oil be a good or decent replacement? Is there any other oils that would work, maybe even better than mineral oil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2022-01-10T13:22:38.637" Title="Use Baby oil instead of mineral oil on cutting boards" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4367" CreationDate="2016-07-09T00:16:48.600" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Baby oil is just mineral oil with fragrance added - so you're not going to kill anyone, but there may be a smell..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I normally use Olive Oil on cutting boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1889" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T00:16:48.600" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4369" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4370" CreationDate="2016-07-09T02:08:23.237" Score="3" ViewCount="221" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a core box bit and I would like to add a trench if you will around the cutting board abot 3/4&quot; in. I do not think you can do it with a router table and i know it has to be done with the hand router. How should I do it? The best I could think of was having a frame around it but there bit would be much to far in, and if I did make it bigger then I only risk the cutting board going flying in some direction and hitting the frame. I could just do it and then cut the wood but I do not want to waste the wood like that. What is the best way to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T03:25:26.490" Title="Adding a 'juice collection' section on a cutting board" Tags="|router|cutting-board|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4369" CreationDate="2016-07-09T03:25:26.490" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't already have one, get a 'router guide bushing' that suits your router. (You might have to replace the base plate to find a bushing that fits.) The only sizing requirement is that the interior of the bushing is bigger than your core bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll want a rectangular chunk of something to sit in the middle of the cutting board. Size it to give you the cutting path you want. (It can be any material -- it just needs smooth edges.) Hot glue or double-sided tape the guide to the cutting board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take progressively deeper cuts -- just a little at a time. The only hard part will be turning around the corners cleanly. Hold on tight and it'll go fine. If you nipped a 45 degree off the corners, it'd be a touch easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T03:25:26.490" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4371" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4397" CreationDate="2016-07-09T08:52:47.037" Score="8" ViewCount="85" Body="&lt;p&gt;Traditional spring lathes predate motorized ones (or even flywheel designs) and aren't expensive or hard to build. They have their limitations, and if course since they're powered by the operator repeatedly stepping on the treadle they're slower and more tiring than a motorized lathe -- but as the furniture in museums demonstrates, they can produce most or all of the same kinds of turnings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And there are some modern non-traditional versions that use return springs made of bungee cords and the like rather than a flexing stick, and thus may fit in a shop with less space overhead (though even the traditional ones often knock down for transport so you could set up outdoors wherever you want to work.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone here played with these, and if so are there any tips/tricks you'd like to pass along about building and using them? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I'm wondering whether bungee returns plus some block-and-tackle magic to replace the usual lever arm on the treadle could result in a spring lathe almost as compact as a motorized one...!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2016-07-09T13:12:06.663" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T20:53:37.010" Title="Any experience/advice re treadle lathes?" Tags="|traditional-techniques|lathe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4372" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-09T18:51:21.680" Score="5" ViewCount="1809" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a piece of furniture (a kind of chair) that seems to be made of bent laminated rails (if that's the right term). In a couple of curves the outer layers began splitting apart, as can be seen in the photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sEfOs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sEfOs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the best way to fix this problem and stop further splitting, considering that the bends are under stress and will be flexing when the chair is used? Epoxy resin may not be flexible enough when cured. Are there other types of glue that might be used here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T20:30:34.333" Title="How to fix splitting laminated wood piece?" Tags="|glue|wood-repair|laminating|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2729" CreationDate="2016-07-09T19:00:59.210" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Graphus gave an excellent answer. Once, having asked the same question to a guy very experienced in wood finishing, he explained to me that thinning the oil doesn't make oil molecules any smaller—it only spreads them further apart. Molecule size determines how deep it will penetrate and, like Graphus pointed out, an impression that thinned oil &quot;should&quot; penetrate deeper is just that—an impression. You only end up with unevenly-distributed oil, which is why it requires several more coats to reach the same effect as with pure oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;note of advice: BLO contains added trash that makes it cure faster, it's not a pure oil. It also yellows and darkens over time. I always use Hope's pure tung oil and I've had much better results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2447" LastEditorUserId="2447" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T16:15:33.517" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T16:15:33.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4374" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-09T21:12:02.687" Score="3" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to build a storage box that is 6 inch high by 66 inch long by 24 inch deep that can withstand a weight of 72 pounds. What kind of wood should I use? Thank you for your help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Rachel" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-07-11T07:43:30.367" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T17:45:50.053" Title="Building a wide storage box" Tags="|storage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4376" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-10T05:10:31.730" Score="1" ViewCount="3933" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been working with polyurethane often and I get some on my hands but mostly my brush. I try to wash it out right after I am done using it but it does not seem to work, even with simple soap. What can I get that will clean this fun stuff up? Could I use gasoline (it works with paint). I hope this is not off topic!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-07-11T07:35:30.420" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T07:35:30.420" Title="Removing oil-based polyurethane residue" Tags="|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4377" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-10T11:43:38.227" Score="3" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I secure joint in wooden curtain rod to make sure it does not give way because of heavy curtains.  We already have a bracket in the middle and one at each end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2450" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T17:31:55.893" Title="Joint in curtain rods" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4378" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4383" CreationDate="2016-07-10T12:41:22.453" Score="4" ViewCount="2159" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been looking about online but cannot find anything that actually covers what I need to achieve, my mission is to cut a hole in a sleeper, for solar lights. The sleeper is deeper than the hole needs to be, the hole needs to actually go down about half the depth of the sleeper. Is there a tool I can use to achieve this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about a hole saw attachment, however I do not think this will extract the wood if the depth does not exceed the total depth of the sleeper.  I hope this makes sense. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will appreciate the help, thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The circle is 64mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2451" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T16:48:20.010" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T07:52:25.333" Title="Cutting a circle out of a sleeper to a certain depth" Tags="|power-tools|hole-saw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4377" CreationDate="2016-07-10T13:55:59.803" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A long scarf joint is the strongest solution I can think of. You would like a lot of length in the process, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or laminating the piece before the rod is cut from it, or using a single contiguous piece in the first place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or consider replacing this with two rods each having its own bracket at which window center, avoiding the need to try to splice them at all. Which seems by far the simplest solution, and is probably what the folks over in the Home Improvement area of SE would tell you to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mu?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T13:55:59.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4380" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4382" CreationDate="2016-07-10T13:57:37.693" Score="5" ViewCount="5171" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a couple of live edge slabs I was planning on making into live edge end tables but I'm wondering what to do with the cracks in the side - if anything can be done at all. Could I fill them with a glue/sawdust mixture? Would some other commercial product be better? Is it worth attempting at all? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are pictures of the cracks:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4crrp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4crrp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Live edge slab&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vXs12.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vXs12.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Live edge slab&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2087" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T15:54:03.890" LastActivityDate="2021-02-23T00:40:50.893" Title="Can you fill cracks in the side of a live edge slab" Tags="|wood|wood-repair|adhesives|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4378" CreationDate="2016-07-10T14:15:21.820" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A forstner bit will result in a clean bottomed hole. Although 64mm is a slightly obscure size, you could expect a 64th of slop from a 2-1/2&quot; bit. (Alternate choices include self-feeding bits, though you'll have to be careful they don't go too deep.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A hole saw would work as well, if you were willing to chisel out the waste. You could achieve a flat bottom in the hole, but it would be time-consuming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Minor edit to cover a couple of points by @graphus ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a large forstner bit could 'walk' away on starting the hole if used with a hand-held drill, but a bit of practice goes a long way. A workaround would be to drill a hole first in plywood, and clamp that plywood onto the sleeper as a guide for the forstner. FWIW, I could find vendors (Lee Valley, Woodcraft) that talked about hand-held use, but none that actually suggested otherwise. This wouldn't apply to angled holes, where a drill press is a must.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Amazon and Woodcraft, to name a couple, have 2-1/2&quot; forstners for between 20 and 30 dollars. I can't vouch for their quality, but I expect you'd get quite a few clean holes out of them, especially in softwood.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;self-feed bits have a spur in the middle, which makes them much less prone to walking, but the only sizes I could find near your needs were 2-9/16, plus they're likely to create a rougher edge, so you'd need a big flange on your lights.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;one last thing that I learned today is that a big bit like this wants to be run slowly in order to keep the rim speed down to prevent overheating: ~450 rpm or so...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastEditorUserId="503" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T22:23:10.517" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T22:23:10.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4380" CreationDate="2016-07-10T16:45:27.840" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Could I fill them with a glue/sawdust mixture? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can yes but common woodworking glue (PVA-type, white or yellow) wouldn't necessarily be the best choice for the glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A much more solid fill can be made by using epoxy. Filled (or just coloured) epoxy is now a common material for filling voids and defects in wood. To a degree this kind of filler can stabilise a crack and add strength, but without some further means to hold the wood steady (e.g. a butterfly key, hidden bolt or dowelling) a crack may continue to open up, so it is worth taking at least one extra step as a safety measure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further reading in some previous Q&amp;amp;As:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3889/filling-cracks-in-tables&quot;&gt;filling cracks in tables&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3807/large-hole-filler-products-what-is-available&quot;&gt;Large hole filler products, what is available&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3551/filling-gaps-seams-in-a-new-cherry-tabletop&quot;&gt;Filling gaps/seams in a new cherry tabletop&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T16:45:27.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4378" CreationDate="2016-07-10T17:06:19.273" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I was thinking about a hole saw attachment, however I do not think this will extract the wood if the depth does not exceed the total depth of the sleeper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's correct, and in addition you could easily find it nearly impossible to withdraw the hole saw from the wood (for the same reason that it can be difficult to remove the plug from a hole saw when it is used to cut through a board).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably the ideal tool for this is a Forstner bit (or saw-tooth bit, similar to a Forstner and often mistaken for one):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2oYru.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2oYru.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Forstner v. saw-tooth bits&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,180,42240&amp;amp;p=45533&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;About Forstner/Saw Tooth Bits&lt;/a&gt; on Lee Valley.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two buts though, and unfortunately they're both biggies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is a safety issue: in general Forstner bits (and bits of a similar design) are not intended to be used freehand, but instead with a drill mounted in a drill stand, or in a drill press/pillar drill. Although many people do use them freehand chucked up in their power drills this is not good practice and the manufacturers of the bits themselves will often warn against it — &quot;For use in a drill press only&quot; or words to that effect. The greater the diameter of the bit the more caution you want to take on this front, and 64mm is a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; large bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second is that a 60-70mm Forstner bit is fairly specialised and as such is not cheap. Expect to pay around $50 or the equivalent for a good one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-07-11T07:52:25.333" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T07:52:25.333" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4376" CreationDate="2016-07-10T17:19:37.080" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As with any finish you need to use the appropriate solvent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For waterbased poly you only need to use water (warm water ideally) although soap and water will generally work much better to get a brush really clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But from the wording of the Question it sounds like you're using oil-based poly, so use mineral spirits or paint thinner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Could I use gasoline (it works with paint). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Old-timey guides often suggest using gasoline as a general cleaner but modern gasoline is not the same as the stuff of old and many modern sources suggest not using it for this sort of thing any longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need a cheap cleanup solvent paint thinner is usually cheaper (sometimes much cheaper) than mineral spirits, although it also tends to have a much stronger smell that some people find objectionable. It's also marginally more toxic, although if you use good ventilation this shouldn't be a concern. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also much cheaper in the long run to buy any solvent in bulk than in smaller quantities, so buy in gallons, not in quarts if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that whatever solvent you use to clean your brushes it can be recycled multiple times, at best almost indefinitely: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4222/how-do-i-properly-care-for-my-paintbrushes/4224#4224&quot;&gt;How do I properly care for my paintbrushes?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T17:19:37.080" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4377" CreationDate="2016-07-10T17:31:55.893" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know how this is done elsewhere in the world but where I am this is often (usually?) done using what's called a dowel screw:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xlpsB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xlpsB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dowel screw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dowel screws come in a few variants, try to buy the type exactly as in the picture with the unthreaded portion in the centre that you can grip with pliers or vice-grips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; these must go into a pre-drilled holes in the wood or you'll almost certainly split the rod. Making the hole perfectly centred and square to the ends requires careful marking out and drilling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can say from personal experience that it's not easy to install these straight! But once installed they can work quite well to keep two halves of a curtain rail in line even with heavy velvet curtains and their lining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T17:31:55.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4374" CreationDate="2016-07-10T17:41:12.087" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on your exact requirements and a few details of the final design you could use many different woods for this, possibly including pine if the centre of the 66&quot; span is supported in some way or otherwise stiffened. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I think the perfect solution for this would be to use a readymade board material, with plywood topping the list. MDF can also be a very good option, but may also require stiffening so as not to sag across the width when the box is fully loaded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheap plywood these days can be very poor, so for strength and a good finish it's usually worth paying a bit more for quality stuff. 'Birch plywood' is often the thing to look for and this can be sold as 'cabinet plywood' or 'cabinet-grade plywood'. Sorry to say that unfortunately none of these are absolute guarantees of quality any more so try to buy in person and select the boards individually, don't just take the first one or two off the top of a stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-07-11T07:42:08.377" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T07:42:08.377" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4372" CreationDate="2016-07-11T14:27:07.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best bet would be to see if you can rough up the surface inside with a very thin file, and then apply some wood glue between the layers.  Then, clamp the hell out of it and give it a day to cure.  You can trim or sand off the excess, and you should be good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that fails, you can clean out the gap again, and use a 2-part epoxy.  Loctite makes an inexpensive clear one that's pretty easy to squirt out and mix before you pack it in there.  Epoxy will fix it for sure, but is a little harder than wood glue (which is very strong to begin with.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2354" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T14:27:07.667" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4388" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-11T15:18:31.787" Score="6" ViewCount="617" Body="&lt;p&gt;so I bought a poplar guitar body.&#xA;In the photo it looked white with a lovely subtle grain and interesting knots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i receive it and its green. BUT in a camera phone it looks white (auto light balance perhaps)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to have the lightest parts bright white, but enjance the grain and maybe keep some of the darker green/purple streaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are your thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Oh and finish it with a non-staining oil or whatever, maybe lightest shellac or danish oil?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2453" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T19:48:25.223" Title="Poplar- how do I get the whites whiter, enhanced grain?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4389" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4394" CreationDate="2016-07-11T15:32:33.023" Score="5" ViewCount="123" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm learning to turn, and found this in a box of chucks and faceplates. The central hole isn't threaded but is recessed on the inside, so I thought it might be a type of mounting for a faceplate, or for a worm screw. I don't know what its for, please can somebody tell me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zjqYU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zjqYU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2454" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-07-14T05:06:33.057" LastActivityDate="2019-05-15T15:57:51.410" Title="Identify this chuck / faceplate mounting" Tags="|tool-identification|lathe-chuck|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4388" CreationDate="2016-07-11T19:48:25.223" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;One type of wood bleach will definitely help get the paler parts to white or nearly so, but they may also have an effect on the darker streaks you want to retain. The green especially I'm sure will be affected as some people specifically bleach to remove the green from poplar, I suspect the purple will be lightened also (possibly to the point of disappearing entirely) but I'm not certain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A previous Question has some related info: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2607/chlorine-bleach-on-poplar&quot;&gt;Chlorine bleach on poplar&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also see the section titled &lt;strong&gt;Turn green to gold&lt;/strong&gt; on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/make-poplar-look-pretty&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Make Poplar Look Pretty&lt;/a&gt; on Popular Woodworking and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/finishes/get-the-color-out-with-wood-bleach&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Get the Color Out With Wood Bleach&lt;/a&gt; on Wood Magazine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(Oh and finish it with a non-staining oil or whatever, maybe lightest shellac or danish oil?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to keep the colour as pale as possible none of the normal oil finishes would be the finish of choice, because they all impart a distinct amber/yellow colouring. Also note that over time this will always increase, never diminish*.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of the things you mention super blond shellac would give you the best colour, although even this will tend to add a slight yellow or 'honey' tone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most waterbased finishes are &quot;water-white&quot; and will produce next to no colour change so are often chosen for very pale woods where lacquering is not an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*This is especially important to note for users of tung oil who may be using it specifically because it's lighter in colour than BLO tends to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T19:48:25.223" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4391" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4393" CreationDate="2016-07-12T05:11:07.847" Score="14" ViewCount="11639" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning my first cabinetry project, and having difficulty with some of the shapes in my design. I would like to have notches along the edge of some large boards. There are two types of notches:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At the bottom of a board for the sides of the cabinet, the corner is cut in for a recessed kick plate. This seems common, and is clearly used in my kitchen and bathroom cabinets. I don't understand how to get a precise cut that meets in an interior angle.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Along the front, wide but relatively shallow notches. This will allow a board running horizontally to be recessed flush with the edge of the board, as a front for a shelf (in green). I would like this board to span multiple compartments and not simply butt up to the side of the vertical board. I haven't observed this in other designs, but seems reasonable yet presents similar problems to #1.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/isnHe.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/isnHe.png&quot; alt=&quot;Illustration of notch cuts&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there names for these types of cuts? How can I accomplish them precisely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used my jigsaw or chisel for similar cuts on other projects. While I wasn't aiming for high precision on those projects, it seems too sloppy to achieve the precision for cabinetry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have just purchased a good table saw and router, and am a complete novice with them. I have thought about standing the board on edge and cutting in to get a clean cut, using a dado or many passes for the edge notch, but that seems awkward and quite dangerous. This does seem plausible with a sled jig assuming the blade can cut deep enough, but I don't have any experience and making one seems like a significant task itself!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the router might help, but would leave a radius on the inside edge that I don't want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is simply a bad design, what are better ways to accomplish the intent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2458" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T18:58:10.597" Title="How can I make precise corner or notch cuts on the edge of a board?" Tags="|table-saw|cutting|cabinetry|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4391" CreationDate="2016-07-12T09:35:30.480" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can chisel out the rounded inside edge after you route the shallow notch. Or you can route from the edge rather than the front. Stand the board on edge and then use a straight bit from the top. You can clamp it down against your workbench with some sacrificial scrap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cut in the bottom can be done using a table saw up until the front of the blade reaches the corner at the bottom. Then you finish off with a handsaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T09:35:30.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4391" CreationDate="2016-07-12T09:38:26.857" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I presume it's obvious but I'll say it anyway, accurate layout and marking on the wood is an all-important first step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have used my jigsaw or chisel for similar cuts on other projects. While I wasn't aiming for high precision on those projects, it seems too sloppy to achieve the precision for cabinetry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't myself do these kinds of cuts using a jigsaw, but it is possible though. People successfully use jigsaws to cut deep overlapping cross-lap joints for knockdown plywood furniture and that requires quite a high degree of accuracy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Jigsaw&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Some of the tips given for doing clean, straight cuts with a jigsaw are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;run the baseplate along a straight edge clamped in place (just a good straight piece of 1x2 is all that's needed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;work slowly, if you force the cut it can tend to induce flex in the blade&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use a good quality blade (some are also capable of giving good surfaces on &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt; sides of the material, although many are designed to give good top or bottom surfaces)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if you can't find or afford a suitable blade it's worth deeply knifing your layout lines &lt;em&gt;on both sides&lt;/em&gt; to prevent chipout&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hand tools&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I would do these sorts of cuts by hand and a sharp chisel would play a big part in the process, especially for cleaning up the corners but often for a bit of fine-tuning of the straight cuts, paring back to my gauged lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one of the difficulties you experienced when paring with a chisel was holding it consistently vertical it's worth using a guide block clamped in place that the flat of the chisel can ride against:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NNPUJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NNPUJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chisel guide blocks&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Guide blocks can also be used to help ensure square shoulders when sawing as shown in this pair of illustrations which I think originally came from a Jackson/Day book:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kt1av.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kt1av.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Guide block for paring and sawing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have just purchased a good table saw and router, and am a complete novice with them. I have thought about standing the board on edge and cutting in to get a clean cut, using a dado or many passes for the edge notch, but that seems awkward and quite dangerous. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes that could be quite dangerous with a table saw!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Router&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A router can be used quite easily to do these sorts of cut-outs. A jig or template would make the cuts very accurate and repeatable, if you don't mind having to construct them ahead of time. The jigs would be much like those in the following pic, made for doing the recess to take a hinge:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/htI9c.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/htI9c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Router hinge templates&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cut-out in the template is made a little oversize (by a fixed amount so easy to make the necessary adjustments to your measurements) and a collar/guide bush projecting from the base of the router will follow along its inside edge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're cutting through the full thickness of the material in one pass turn the speed on the router up to full and progress the cut at a measured pace, &lt;em&gt;do not&lt;/em&gt; attempt to force it to cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rounded corners&lt;/strong&gt;: a router will naturally produce rounded internal corners, which are usually squared up. This is commonly done with a chisel, but you can also use a corner chisel or the 'shell' of a mortising bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't fancy doing that you can actually leave the corners round. For the toe-kick especially I don't see an advantage to making the corner square and having it rounded is less usual so you could consider it a feature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the front notch that will accept the horizontal board you would have to round over a short portion of the two inside edges of the board to get it to fit in the notch properly. This isn't particularly difficult, although you may want to practice once or twice on scraps before doing it for real. Again after carefully marking out to start with you can do this by paring (using a chisel, carving knife, sharp penknife), paring then sanding, just by sanding or with a file, whatever you prefer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-07-12T09:46:43.717" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T09:46:43.717" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4389" CreationDate="2016-07-13T01:39:23.420" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have s similar item which I have used as a one-screw faceplate.  Not a lot to say about it, just put a screw through the hole and into a small piece of wood to turn a small bowl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T01:39:23.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4395" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-14T02:21:10.660" Score="5" ViewCount="2730" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not know how I should sharpen this bit. Do I sharpen what I have circled in black black with sand paper glued to a piece of wood?  Or should I put it in my drill and sand the outside? I can very easily see both ways working, but I do not want to go ahead and make a potential mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/15CL4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/15CL4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. Sorry for the poor image, used my computer camera to get a quick pick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2016-07-14T13:55:56.287" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T14:19:25.383" Title="What is the proper way to sharpen a round plug cutter" Tags="|sharpening|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4395" CreationDate="2016-07-14T14:19:25.383" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two things to hone on a plug cutter like this, the leading edge/rim and the chisel-type cutting edge that you've circled in black. The second will account for most of the cutting action of the bit and luckily is the easiest part to do. The work can be done using a fine file, the edge of a diamond plate or abrasive stuck to a stick. Use push strokes only and aim to follow the existing grind angle, any burr that is raised should be easily knocked off by driving the bit into a piece of scrap hardwood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The circular rim can be tackled similarly to honing an outcannel (outside bevel) gouge, although you don't need to get the edge anywhere near as refined as we need on a carving gouge or bench chisel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with a gouge the goal is to just work the bevel, then as lightly as possible remove the burr from the inside. You don't want to take any noticeable amount of material away from the inside as you'll alter the diameter at the cutting edge, which in addition to creating a worse fit for the plugs can cause them to more easily get stuck in the bit (or the bit to get stuck in the wood).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The abrading can be done by stroking the bevel as you rotate the bit with your fingers*, working against a sharpening stone (use the side of the stone if it's accessible to prevent dishing the face), a diamond plate or again abrasive stuck down onto wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The burr on the inside circumference would conventionally be removed by stroking gently with a cylindrical sliptone. But a piece of medium or fine abrasive paper wrapped around a dowel will do just as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Some older guides suggest the opposite approach for tackling certain curved edges, holding the tool steady in one hand and the stone in the other, stroke it across or along the edge in an arc. You can't cover the entire circumference in one go, you do a section at a time until you've worked the entire edge. Initially you'll probably find it difficult honing this way but it's worth persevering until you get the knack because it's a useful technique to have in your sharpening repertoire as you can eyeball the edge directly as you're honing it, rather than the usual situation where the bevel is hidden from view underneath the tool. Especially if using a small stone or diamond paddle mind your fingers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T14:19:25.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4371" CreationDate="2016-07-14T20:19:36.120" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Saint Roy &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DD_PBkV7Ovg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;is on it&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing about treadle lathes is that the piece rotates in two different directions, so you'll need to use a different technique to keep the tool from gouging into the work when it suddenly starts rotating in the opposite direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not a fundamental philosophy change, you just need to back the tool off at the top or bottom of the stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2354" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T20:19:36.120" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4398" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4399" CreationDate="2016-07-14T21:44:02.280" Score="4" ViewCount="798" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that a 2x4 is actually 1.5x3.5 because the 2 and 4 refer to the rough-sawn dimensions. But when planing a rough 1x2 and other 1 inch nominal thickness lumber into S4S, why do they only take 1/8&quot; off each surface in the 1-inch dimension? Even on that size board mills take 1/4&quot; off each side in the larger dimension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2471" LastActivityDate="2020-11-10T22:24:16.360" Title="Why is a 1x2 nominal planed to 0.75x1.5?" Tags="|lumber|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4398" CreationDate="2016-07-15T02:50:06.480" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This has been answered elsewhere on the Internet, though there seem to be a few different stories running around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one I currently believe is that nominal 1&quot; is actually 1&quot; &lt;em&gt;unsurfaced&lt;/em&gt; -- but what you buy as construction lumber is typically s4s (surfaced 4 sides). That means some wood has been planed away. To make that predictable, the convention was established that 1/8&quot; could be removed from each side of a 1&quot; thickness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's weird. But that&quot;s how the industry has decided to label things. It's much like the fact that hard drives were often measured in metric base-10 gigabytes rather than the power of two that programmers normally would call a gigabyte -- annoying but there really isn't much we can do but be aware of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T00:23:22.187" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T00:23:22.187" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4374" CreationDate="2016-07-15T07:44:55.100" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This  Old House had a design for a platform bed with storage underneath that was basically a set of three five-sided MDF boxes, two opening to the sides and one at the foot of the bed, with two internal dividers to make the space more useful and help carry weight. Since then I've seen a similar design based on very slightly modified Ikea bookcases, which I think are melamine-coated chipboard or something similar rather than MDF; there, the fixed shelves acted as the dividers/supports. Not exactly high-precision engineering, and more than strong enough for any semi-reasonable distribution of weight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2016-07-15T17:45:50.053" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T17:45:50.053" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1489" CreationDate="2016-07-15T20:21:57.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you work in a professional wood shop (Oregon) use of PVC piping for combustible/wood dust collection is a no no and can get you a fine (Due to the static build up regardless of the use of a ground.) It's more well known that using PVC for compressed air lines is a no no and a osha violation but same thing for ventilation / dust collection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2473" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T20:21:57.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4372" CreationDate="2016-07-16T20:30:34.333" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am out on a limb here but what about glue for shoe soles? It is used for attaching to leather and rubber, both porous materials, and to bend over and over again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T20:30:34.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1604" CreationDate="2016-07-16T21:42:01.177" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need multiple instances of a tool .... when you need multiple instances of the tool. This question answers itself as you actually work on projects. Buy what you need when it significantly eases a task you do frequently, or when you can't see any other way to complete the task, or when you really don't like the one(s) you have on hand and believe you have found one that will resolve those difficulties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a very few tools which are frequently used in pairs, such as wrenches (holding one side while turning the other side). There are a few which are used so often that it may be worth having several copies stored in multiple places so they are always available where and when you need them. But waiting and letting actual need/use drive this is the single best way to avoid wasting money on unneeded tools... Which leaves you more money to spend on getting the tools you do need, or buying higher-quality versions thereof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let the work tell you what it needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2016-07-18T00:42:21.707" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T00:42:21.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4404" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-18T13:47:48.303" Score="3" ViewCount="846" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm attaching a solid ash tabletop to the legs I've made. I have to install the table on site and don't want to drill holes to attach the ends of the legs. I was going to use typical wood buttons inserted into slots to secure the back edges of the legs.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My idea was to cut small wood wedges and slot the underside of the ends of the legs with a dovetail router bit so it works similar to a french cleat. When I pull the leg back it would force it against the tabletop. Would this method work or is there a better/easier option that allows for wood movement? Tabletop is 42&quot; x 78&quot; oval.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dzGVG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dzGVG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nMG5s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nMG5s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;table render 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UYvx6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UYvx6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8T1zy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8T1zy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1462" LastEditorUserId="1462" LastEditDate="2016-07-18T19:33:43.443" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T19:04:25.153" Title="Is this a sufficient attachment method for a tabletop?" Tags="|wood-movement|tabletop|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4404" CreationDate="2016-07-18T14:35:00.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To me, this design looks good structurally. (The table overall design looks great too!) As I look at your design it appears that you have thought this out very well.  So I thought it might be helpful to our readers to discuss the key features your design addresses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dovetail connection will primarily serve to keep the table top flat and connected to the legs.  It will experience the most stress when the table is being lifted or shifted.  Lifting the table will apply force to pull the top and legs apart and the connection must resist that.  The force will be applied to the beveled surface of the wedge and leg contact surface.  IF the wedge is snug against the bevel cutout in the leg and is deep enough to prevent tear out of the wedge point under load, it will work.  While you made the wedge hidden, I would be tempted to make the wedge wider than the width of the leg and both glue and screw it to the underside of the top to insure maximum resistance to the tension force applied during lifting. If the table is shifted or turned in place this will apply some lateral force on the legs and a twisting force between the top and leg assemblies (if the legs are still in contact with the floor). I believe that the combination of the buttons and wedges should be adequate to resist this applied force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the table is in place the load on the top will apply downward force across the leg assembly horizontal support arms.  Since the leg vertical parts are angled the bottom of the legs will want to slide further out from the center.  This will place load on the connection between the horizontal and vertical leg parts. The legs will attempt to close like a pair of scissors. The fact that you have made the connection deeper there acknowledges this.  I would use full depth mortise/tenon connections to maximize glue connection between the two parts to resist the force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if the legs resist the scissoring force adequately, which they should, the leg as a whole will try to rotate down at the center.  The button connections (which allow for seasonal expansion/contraction of the wood top) near the center of the top will carry the brunt of this force as a tension force pulling the button away from the top.  This force will be at least partially cancelled by the downward force of the table top, but some pullout force on the buttons may also be experienced when the table is in use.  Make certain that the buttons are also strong enough to resist any pullout load both in the contact between the button and the top and in the slotted connection between button and leg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that is not clear in your images is that although you have a spacer between the vertical parts of the leg assembly, another spacer on the horizontal legs would be helpful to keep the legs rigid without depending upon the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2016-07-18T14:42:25.243" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T14:42:25.243" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4407" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4409" CreationDate="2016-07-18T18:15:45.017" Score="3" ViewCount="1085" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anything in past human history would qualify as long as it can still be used today for finishing wood. For clarity, I am interested in creating replicas of objects such as ancient tools or common-use objects such as a cup or bowl. I would like to keep things as authentic as possible by using &quot;ancient&quot; finishes on the wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common type of &quot;ancient&quot; wood finishes that I could find were things such as tar or wax for use in making boats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1172" LastEditorUserId="1172" LastEditDate="2016-07-19T12:46:32.263" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T07:11:34.020" Title="What is the oldest type of wood finish that we know of which can still be used today?" Tags="|finishing|finish-selection|history|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4391" CreationDate="2016-07-18T18:58:10.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a shallow cut is being made, sometimes a table saw can be used, but here it cannot because you would have to stand the board on end and it would be unmanageable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the corner cut, use a power jigsaw with a right angle guide. Drill a hole where the corner of the cutout should be. Then use the jigsaw to cut a straight line to the edge of the hole on both sides. To square it out, use a small rasp and then a bastard file. Use a sanding block as the final step. Clamp two perfectly straight boards on either side of the edge being rasped. This will prevent you from rounding off the edges and ensure that they are nice and sharp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make the cutout on the side do the same thing, except drill two holes, one for each corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I would advise avoiding chisels. Using chisels effectively requires a lot of experience and training. They are not appropriate tools for novice woodworkers.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T18:58:10.597" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4407" CreationDate="2016-07-19T08:10:11.053" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well this is easy: &lt;strong&gt;no finish&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go back far enough and there's no doubt wood would have been left unfinished and the no-finish option is still widely used today, sometimes by necessity&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; and sometimes by choice&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may or may not answer the question depending on what you're looking for. If you do need something that was actually applied to wood then &lt;strong&gt;oils or greases&lt;/strong&gt; would surely have been first&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While waxes and resins exist in nature and can occasionally be harvested in pure or nearly pure form they aren't in an easy-to-apply form, but oils are needless to say. And I think that oils might have been more obvious to early people as a way to treat wood anyway — the &quot;hand finish&quot; mentioned in a Comment above by keshlam could easily have provided the inspiration for deliberately oiling wood, rather than have it happen accidentally/incidentally with handling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1] There's nothing suitable to hand.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;[2] Wood finish would interfere with function or would serve no useful purpose, e.g. on a wooden bearing. And occasionally it will be felt the wood doesn't need a finish to look good, e.g. when using a dense tropical hardwood which can be shined up without anything applied to the surface.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;[3] Initially, and possibly for a very long time indeed (millennia), these wouldn't be of vegetable origin, but animal origin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-07-20T07:11:34.020" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T07:11:34.020" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4410" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4411" CreationDate="2016-07-19T09:11:57.843" Score="5" ViewCount="1051" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty novice and am currently experimenting with my newly purchased router table and am making cut out handles in plywood doors. I'd love to achieve something similar to the attached image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering what kind of router bit could be used to make this type of profile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the router bits I have in my set that could make something similar to this profile have a bearing on the bit which would prevent a cut like this from being made as it would have to go all the way through the work piece for the bearing to clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RmN8T.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RmN8T.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2482" LastActivityDate="2021-11-07T01:51:37.903" Title="Router bit used for this profile?" Tags="|router|router-bit|cabinetry|handle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4410" CreationDate="2016-07-19T09:45:54.650" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know the name of that bit profile but it's possible the cut is done using just a portion of a bit, e.g the highlighted portion here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t8yMD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t8yMD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tambour bit portion&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/tambour-router-bit-set&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rockler tambour bit set&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; thanks to the Comment below from Aloysius Defenestrate, the correct bit to use for this is called, obviously enough, a drawer-pull bit. As theorised a portion of the bit is used to form the finger groove as shown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IFQ8f.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IFQ8f.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Drawer-pull router bit&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=30104&amp;amp;cat=1,46168,69435,46176&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Drawer Pull Bit&lt;/a&gt; on Lee Valley.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case it's not obvious you could do a very similar cutout using a common dovetail bit. Perhaps not as comfortable but would likely work nearly as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do be aware a cut like this will work better in solid wood than in plywood. Even using excellent all-hardwood ply the router bit will naturally cut the long-grain plies differently to the cross-grain plies so the inside surface may feel rougher than you'd really like. And there may be a tendency for the surface ply to delaminate from the board with extended use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also related to the cross-ply structure, to get a good surface on the edge you may want to clamp on a sacrificial board, or, route and then saw to final width to remove the chipped-out edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm pretty novice and am currently experimenting with my newly purchased router table and am making cut out handles in plywood doors. I'd love to achieve something similar to the attached image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This kind of cutout would not normally be done on the router table, it's much more common, and generally safer, to use the router with an edge-following fence as supplied with most (all?) routers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-07-20T07:31:17.263" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T07:31:17.263" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4318" CreationDate="2016-07-20T11:18:38.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is how I ended up doing it. I even put some glue for good measure (although I'm not sure how effective it is).  To my surprise, I don't notice any racking while swinging so I'm pretty happy with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Constructive criticism surely accepted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/89Jpn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/89Jpn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Solution 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QvEaA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QvEaA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Solution 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O96qn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O96qn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Solution 3&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1793" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T11:18:38.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4413" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-21T01:23:57.360" Score="1" ViewCount="3935" Body="&lt;p&gt;My American Ninja Warrior watching daughter has asked me to build her a Brachiation Ladder (fancy name for overhead ladder or monkey bars).  Here's an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WBVet.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WBVet.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The interesting part is that she doesn't want it to be the normal 6 to 8 feet wide.  She would like it to be 12 feet wide.  The vertical supports are easy, but I'm not sure what dimensions I need for the two horizontal beams that form the ladder.  The constraints are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Douglas Fir since this will be outside in the midwest.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Capable of supporting a 50-75 lb child swinging in the middle (6 feet from either end).  And possibly multiple kids if the neighbors invade the backyard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not excessively over engineered so I can still move it around if necessary.  For example, if I don't need to use 2&quot; x 12&quot; boards, then I won't.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So assuming a 12 foot beam of Douglas Fir, do I need a 4x4, 2x6, 2x8, 2x10, 2x12, etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2485" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T02:38:32.847" Title="Lumber Dimensions for Brachiation Ladder (Monkey Bars)" Tags="|lumber|strength|outdoor|douglas-fir|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4414" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4416" CreationDate="2016-07-21T03:20:52.820" Score="3" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made a planer table that uses a sled on top to use my router as the planing device. After using it for a good 45 minutes to an hour, my $60 Performax router is getting very warm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to give it a break? Will I regret for life not giving it a rest because it shall just fry up? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask this because normally I would give it a break but there are some days when I am busy and need stuff planed and would prefer not to stop if I do not need to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T17:36:48.943" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T17:36:48.943" Title="Can overusing a trim router be bad?" Tags="|router|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4413" CreationDate="2016-07-21T07:36:35.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Under the assumption that you will use some kind of design resembling the picture you posted, especially the diagonal braces on the ends, I would use two 2x6 for each side rail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Capable of supporting a 50-75 lb child swinging in the middle (6 feet from either end). And possibly multiple kids if the neighbors invade the backyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the lumber will lose most of it's stability with the holes that are drilled for the steps/rungs. To compensate for that I would drill all the way through one 2x6 and glue a second one to it. This has the added advantage that you could clamp the two rails with the holes together while drilling, ensuring the holes to be nicely aligned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other crucial part regarding the stability is the selection of your lumber. Be sure to avoid posts with as little knots (if any) as possible, they are predetermined breaking points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Douglas Fir since this will be outside in the midwest&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We had a bench built with untreated Douglas Fir and after 4 years it splintered all over the place. I heard them say this was because it was &quot;untreated&quot;. Something you might want to consider when building something for children.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Not excessively over engineered so I can still move it around if necessary. For example, if I don't need to use 2&quot; x 12&quot; boards, then I won't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see a way to avoid the long boards, but all in all I think two moderately strong people should be able to at least carry it around the backyard a bit. The ladder in your picture looks as it could be disassembled fairly easy, which probably would add to the task of engineering it though :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to consider is, if it's easy to move, it's also lightweight and prune to tip/collapse. A couple children playing with it might tip it over and hurt themselves if the thing is too flimsy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My grandfather built something alike for us and we kept messing around on/under/with it way longer than he anticipated. It basically had to hold the equivalent of 3 fully grown men in the end :). So you might want to consider dimensioning the thing to hold 200 lb (~90 kg) in the middle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Out of curiosity, what are you planning on using for the steps/rungs? I'd go with quarter or half inch pipes I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2262" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T07:36:35.033" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4414" CreationDate="2016-07-21T13:37:05.453" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A small router like that is not optimal for use in a planing sled.  Small universal motors like that can overheat and be permanently damaged.  If you want to use this method for planing, you should at least look at getting a quality 2 1/2 - 3 horsepower router.  If that is not a cost effective option for you, consider getting another router like the one you have and swapping them out every 15 minutes or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a reason induction motors are used in commercial/industrial systems instead of universal motors - duty cycle.  A quality induction motor can be run for hours at a time with no ill effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T13:37:05.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4419" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-21T19:12:01.830" Score="2" ViewCount="2643" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm creating a desk from a file cabinet with a piece of wood atop it. I want to place a 1.25&quot; dowel on the left side so that it is more stable, but I don't think running a screw through the top will suffice. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z1MiB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z1MiB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sketch of desk&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Is there a piece like this photo, either square or round &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KN0UN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KN0UN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sketch of Attachment Idea&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;which I can glue to the board and then glue in the dowel???&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm flummoxed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2492" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T08:29:57.543" Title="Affixing a dowel to the bottom of a piece of board" Tags="|joinery|dowel|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4419" CreationDate="2016-07-22T05:05:55.893" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The joint you are probably thinking of is a mortise and tenon joint.  Such a joint is very strong, but strength is relative.  If you have the top securely fastened to the file cabinet, and only need the dowel as a leg to keep it from tipping, a 1 1/4&quot; dowel would have enough strength for that purpose, but fastening it to a relatively thin tabletop would be the weak link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the leg never had any lateral stress applied to it, and was always in compression between the tabletop and the floor, almost anything that held it in place would suffice.  Unfortunately, you cannot assume that the leg will never get knocked or kicked, an so you need to provide some support to prevent lateral movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at a table, the top is affixed to an apron consisting of boards perpendicular to the top, and the legs are fastened to this apron.  The problem is, it is hard to attach a round dowel to a flat apron.  Usually this is solved by having the leg be squared at the top allowing fasteners to connect to the apron in two dimensions.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gCEJe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gCEJe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Table Leg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of a dowel, you could buy a single table leg, then attach it to the desk bottom somewhat like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rvpL7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rvpL7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a simple table leg similar to this one below available at Home Depot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LD6Ds.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LD6Ds.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T05:05:55.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4421" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-22T09:21:45.937" Score="6" ViewCount="6635" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have to drill a perfectly centred hole in the flat part of a cylinder.I don't know how to do but I thought something like this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to take a piece of wood and fix it at the base of the drill press and then drill a hole of the same diameter as the cylinder. Then put the cylinder in the hole and drill it. In this way all the holes will be centred. Is this a good idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; The cylinder is 4 mm dia and 1.5 cm high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2494" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T16:09:27.310" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T18:31:50.740" Title="Drill a perfectly centred hole in a cylinder" Tags="|wood|drilling|holes|drill|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4421" CreationDate="2016-07-22T12:06:24.600" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the hole is big enough to fit a bowl gauge in it (for instance, if you're making a cup), you can get a perfectly centered hole by mounting the cylinder to a lathe and turning it like you would turn a bowl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T12:11:28.657" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T12:11:28.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4421" CreationDate="2016-07-22T17:54:17.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done it as you suggest, and it works.  Obviously, the dowel you're drilling has to be fairly short.  You also have to make sure it's held securely so it doesn't spin in the wood that's holding it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2276" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T17:54:17.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4421" CreationDate="2016-07-22T21:17:46.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you have a lathe available?  If so, here's my answer from a  (&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2936/drilling-a-hole-in-end-of-spindle&quot;&gt;similar question&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a lathe available (you did mention the spindle being turned already), then you have a great way to drill a hole along the center axis.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You use a drill chuck (like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/lathe-chuck-and-tapers-chuck?utm_source=google&amp;amp;utm_medium=cpc&amp;amp;utm_term=&amp;amp;utm_content=pla_with_promotion&amp;amp;utm_campaign=PL&amp;amp;sid=V9146&amp;amp;gclid=CLHB9oXR0ckCFYEYHwodR9ABJA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;this&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; one at Rockler), to hold your drill bit.  You chuck the spindle, rotate and move the tailstock towards the headstock to do the drilling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how you chuck the spindle, it may be easier to put the spindle in the headstock and the bit in the tailstock or the other way around.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used this technique on fairly short spindle stock, probably wouldn't work well if your spindle was a 20&quot; long, half-inch diameter piece, as the spindle wouldn't have sufficient support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick image search found this picture to illustrate what I'm talking about, though it looks as if the material is brass:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/02Fr8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/02Fr8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="956" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T21:17:46.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4425" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-22T22:33:45.960" Score="1" ViewCount="124" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Jet 10&quot; 708325 table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I set the depth of cut, but the blade lowers itself after a couple of cuts. I do not see anything in the manual addressing any adjustments.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2498" LastEditorUserId="158" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T14:00:42.457" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T14:00:42.457" Title="Unwanted change of depth of cut" Tags="|table-saw|cutting|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4421" CreationDate="2016-07-22T23:23:27.963" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a general statement, your idea will work - though precision will be dependent on the quality of a) your drill press, b) the bits used, and c) the 'solidity' of your clamped jig, as well as being limited to higher tolerances by the nature of this approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IF the drill press has little to no play when extended, it will be better suited than a drill press with any discernable play. (Play is any ability to wiggle the extended shaft around.) Accuracy will decline in direct relationship to amount of play present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IF the hole saw is very good quality the pilot bit will actually be centered in the hole saw itself, but that accuracy is relative - by nature of it's assembly, a hole saw isn't accurate if tolerances needed are small (under 1/16 or 1mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IF the drill bit used to bore the centered hole in the work is true (straight) and sharp it will lead in best, and I would suggest a brad-point bit to aid lead-in. But this is dependent on the material you are drilling into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IF your holding jig is very secure and made of something that will not distort when the work is inserted and removed, it will improve accuracy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To close this out, I recommend this approach only for medium to large items due to the inbuilt inaccuracy at small scales.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2499" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T23:23:27.963" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4413" CreationDate="2016-07-23T02:38:32.847" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, my flat answer: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a 12' span backyard monkey bar set I'd use four clear (no knots) 2x8's - two each side. Use threaded pipe flanges screwed to the inner (hidden) face of the inner 2x8's (in a counterbore) to anchor pipe sections. Assemble inner 2x8s and pipe, then laminate the outer 2x8's onto the inner ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, that will be heavy, but not beyond the limit for two adults to move around, and reliable for more than the projected loads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get nitty-gritty about load calculations, please check out this handy calculator - it should provide you a good approximation of scaling for the lumber. You will have a 'live load.'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://courses.cit.cornell.edu/arch264/calculators/example8.1/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://courses.cit.cornell.edu/arch264/calculators/example8.1/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2499" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T02:38:32.847" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3887" CreationDate="2016-07-23T03:10:04.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is perfectly feasible to fab a shaker door from a solid slab of MDF. Routing out the interior flat area is a simple matter of proper jigging and depth control. But you will need to chisel-cut the inside corners and invest a lot of time sanding out the panel area. A router will not leave a 'finish' grade surface when the bit is acting as an end-mill. The best bit to use would be an up-spiral 3-flute bit with 1/2&quot; shank. Bit diameter of 1/2&quot; probably best when balancing strokes necessary to rout down versus difficulty. You'd need to set up two jigs - one as a perimeter jig and another as a platform to ride on the frame while routing down to panel surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BUT... That approach is not the only approach to the &quot;MDF Shaker Door&quot; problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With MDF as the material, and a router as your only tool (unless you say otherwise), the simplest approach I would suggest would be using two thicknesses of MDF, one for the frames and one for panels. Rout the frame as a unit from the thicker stock, rout a rebate on the back side to accomodate that panel, chisel-clean the corners of these from rounded to square. Then rout the panels out of the thinner stock and glue the panels into the frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That will get you there, but is wasteful of the thicker MDF stock (the lost middle parts), and the unsightly joint on the back side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do this using the least amount of material, and again with only a router, approach it as a true panel door. Rout the Stiles and rails of the door as individual items from thicker stock, rout a groove into the inner-facing edge to receive the panel (groove size to match panel material). Rout the panels from the thinner MDF sheets. Rout out some splines from the thinner stock, to match depth of groove times 2 and as long as the stiles are wide. Assemble doors with glue, sliding splines in from ends until they contact the panel. Clamp flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, no matter how you go about this you are in for a fair amount of labor. My personal preference would be for the wasteful but simple way, as it asks the least sanding time after assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And in closing, I suggest that you reconsider using MDF at all if that is an option. While it is cheap and in common use it is really not the best stuff to use for a number of reasons. For an inexpensive shaker door, solid pine and pine ply panels would look as good and hold up better over time. And it's doable with just the router, using the last of the options I posted above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2499" LastEditorUserId="2499" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T03:40:19.800" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T03:40:19.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4421" CreationDate="2016-07-23T09:54:29.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For small cylinders as described (4mm dia, 15mm long) the premise in your OP will work, but the drill press used needs to be accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommended execution of your idea:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assumes negligible play in drill press and use of good brad-point drill bits. Drill press table should be as close to chuck as will still allow the exchange of bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cut a piece of 18mm MDF about 100mm wide and 100mm shorter than your drill press table's diameter. Mark centre. Clamp down with centre mark at drill bit centre. Drill a 4mm hole to 2mm deep, and without unclamping drill your desired bore diameter right through the 18mm MDF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unclamp, set aside and retain. This is the top half of your jig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clamp a second piece of 18mm MDF to the drill press table (100mm longer than the first, which should equal your drill press table diameter). Clamp at very outermost available places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bore a 4mm hole to 11mm depth, then drill a 2mm hole clear through the MDF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This second MDF chunk is the jig's lower half. It remains clamped in place until operations are complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blow out any dust from drilling, and place first cylinder in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Place jig top half onto top of work, clamping in place using the extreme ends of the jig half. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two jig halves will compress the work from top and bottom, preventing rotation while drilling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drill desired bore into work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unclamp jig top half, remove work by poking up from below through the 2mmm hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blow out jig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this is a very small object, go easy when drilling and don't try to hog it out all in one go. You'll get a good number of cycles out of the jig if you take care to remove and re-clamp gently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2499" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T09:54:29.933" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4421" CreationDate="2016-07-23T16:15:17.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If there is only ONE workpiece:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you only need to center drill one cylinder, then mark the center, and drill it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Find-the-Center-of-a-Circle-1/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to find the center of a circle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If there are multiple workpieces:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, your idea will work roughly, however you would be much better off using a v-block to hold the workpieces. The reason for this is that any circular fixture you make will not perfectly fit the cylinders, so they will move slightly inside of it, creating error. Not only is a v-block more simple to make, but you can hold the workpieces tight against it, so there will be no movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make the v-block, just clamp two blocks to the table of the drill press:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m8ui0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m8ui0.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To locate the fixture:&lt;/strong&gt; in order to locate the fixture so that the center of the workpiece is under the drill, first mark the center of an example workpiece. This can be done with a center finder or with calipers. Loosen the clamps. Mount a needle in the drill press. Adjust the workpiece until the point of the needle touches the center mark on the test piece. Gradually tighten the clamps while maintaining the adjustment of the test piece until they are tight and the workpiece is still exactly centered. This procedure has to be repeated if there are sets of workpieces which are of different sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional notes: a permanent v-block can be made by bolting two pieces of wood together. Also, if you have a slotted drill press table and the work piece is 2&quot; or diameter or less you can use 1-2-3 blocks to make this setup. The advantage of 1-2-3 blocks is that they have threaded bolt holes, so you can bolt them together, then bolt them to them to the drill press table quickly. Also, if you have 4 1-2-3 blocks, you can bolt more blocks onto to the end to make a larger v-block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastEditorUserId="306" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T18:31:50.740" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T18:31:50.740" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4419" CreationDate="2016-07-23T18:41:57.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't use a dowel. A dowel will be both flimsy and will be warped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use one of those 4x4 beams that Home Depot sells for garden edging. Have them cut it to the right length. Make sure you have the length right to within 1/32nd of an inch. With tables you need SOLIDITY. That's what a 4x4 will provide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can probably use a 4x4 without even attaching it to the table, but to attach it use two angle brackets:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jCFuLm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jCFuLm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The angle brackets should be attached using wood screws. You will need a drill to make pilot holes for the screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T18:41:57.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4404" CreationDate="2016-07-23T19:04:25.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is a pretty sophisticated plan. The main issue you will run into is looseness. I don't really see how a simple dovetail is going to lead to a tight joint, especially if there is just one screw holding it. Tables have a lot of forces applied to them. People sit on them; lay heavy objects on them; stand on them to change light bulbs, etc. You don't want a flimsy table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the general design used here I would recommend sistering a whole board to the bottom of the table and cutting a tapered slot in the board. The entire arm of the leg would slide into the slot. The slot should be tapered so that the narrow part is innermost. To assemble the table the arm would be tapped into the slot using a mallet. This will make a tight, solid joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To attach the sistered boards with no screw, you can use hidden dowels or biscuits with glue, or just glue alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T19:04:25.153" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4434" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-23T21:22:40.190" Score="2" ViewCount="2362" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a cylinder with a 4 cm diameter and 8 cm high. The internal thickness is 1 cm. How can I reduce this diameter only for the first 2 cm of its height?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a drill press.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thinking was to place the cylinder perfectly centered in the drill press. Then mount a milling cup with a diameter smaller than the cylinder and use that to mill the piece. I don't know if this is a good idea but it is the only thing I thought of that allowed me to be sure that I can decrease the diameter of the cylinder by a small number of millimeters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2494" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T16:29:33.713" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T16:29:33.713" Title="Decrease the diameter of part of a cylinder" Tags="|wood|drilling|drill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4435" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-24T01:08:37.687" Score="3" ViewCount="252" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having the hardest time finding a 1/4&quot; shank, 1/4&quot; radius (1/2&quot; diameter), bullnose router bit with a bearing guide. It's almost as if there is some mechanical reason why this bit can't exist?! I see this bit with 1/2&quot; shanks in various places or a 1/4&quot; shank but without the bearing, but nothing is like what I described. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this… but with a 1/4&quot; shank:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xbDO6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xbDO6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bit&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a mechanical reason why I can't find this, please explain (like, &quot;&lt;em&gt;routing bullnose puts too much pressure on the shank...&lt;/em&gt;&quot;, or something). I would be interested to know. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2502" LastEditorUserId="2502" LastEditDate="2016-07-24T14:24:56.677" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T16:45:44.650" Title="Bullnose router bit, 1/4&quot; shank, 1/4&quot; radius, bearing guide DOESN'T EXIST?" Tags="|wood|power-tools|router|router-bit|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4434" CreationDate="2016-07-24T02:32:42.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since it's a very small piece, you may be able to make a faceplate that fits into your drill press' chuck or improvise something (e.g., with a hole saw) and mount the piece on your drill press to use it like a lathe, but weaker drill presses still may not have enough torque for this to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a few other options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mount the piece on a faceplate or chuck and use a lathe to reduce the thickness of the cylinder wall&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Router with template and guide bushing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Router with bearing bit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2016-07-24T20:03:33.033" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T20:03:33.033" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4435" CreationDate="2016-07-24T02:45:25.013" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no reason I know of.  In fact I have one in my shop.  Check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2016/main/510?p=510&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for one source.  Their image does not show the guide bearing.  My bit has a screw hole to accept standard bearings and you can call them to confirm the hole is still there.  I'm also sure they sell the bearings in a variety of diameters. Good Luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T02:45:25.013" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4419" CreationDate="2016-07-24T08:29:57.543" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can do this the way you've proposed and actually I think it's a perfectly reasonable outside-the-box solution. What you'll end up with is not that different in principle to how some Mid Century Modern pieces have their round legs attached. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One caveat though, I do think you'd be better off using two dowels if you plan to lean on the table much when it's in use. A single dowel placed centrally will allow for a lot of twisting or warping of the top (far more than you'd guess, even if the top is very thick and stiff) so adding two legs would be much better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're set on using just one leg mount it off-centre, toward the side you plan to sit at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a piece like this photo, either square or round &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd need to make this but it's a simple enough operation, just requiring cutting the wood to size and drilling a suitable hole through it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this joint were described in woodworking guides I bet it would say that ideally you'd want to create a shoulder on the dowel (essentially forming a circular tenon on its end, the drilled hole in the block then becoming a round mortise) but given the way this will be mounted I think that's complete overkill. With a good tight fit* between the dowel and the drilled hole you'll get an excellent glue join, and once the block is firmly attached to the tabletop from underneath the leg isn't going anywhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;which I can glue to the board&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't glue the board to the tabletop, use screws at each corner instead. Pre-drill and countersink as needed, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2708/are-there-specific-types-of-screws-i-should-use-for-woodworking/2714#2714&quot;&gt;previous Answer&lt;/a&gt; for details if required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I want to place a 1.25&quot; dowel &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You didn't specify the wood type here, but I would recommend you go with a hardwood rather than a softwood especially if you go with just one leg. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case it's a good idea to select a dowel with straight grain and minimal runout (grain should be parallel to the sides, not at an angle) to be as stable as possible, but this is most critical if you go with softwood. And avoid picking a piece that has a knot in it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Go for a tight fit but in practice you might not find this possible, as the dowel may be a fraction smaller than the available bit despite them being nominally the same diameter. If this does occur use epoxy to glue the pieces together, almost all regular wood glues (including all PVA types and most polyurethanes) have very poor gap-filling properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T08:29:57.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4434" CreationDate="2016-07-24T09:00:53.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are multiple ways this can be done. Which one to pick is partly a matter of what method you'd prefer to use (arguably all methods are nearly equally good) as well as what tools you have available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll start with the oddball or less-usual methods, just for the purposes of fleshing out the Answer for future readers but I'll end with the method I think you should use, particularly if you only need to do this once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lathe&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Obviously this can be done on a lathe, using standard turning techniques that I don't need to describe here. The only real difficulty might be in perfectly mounting the cylinder in line with the axis of rotation, especially if turning between centres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Table saw&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As odd as it might seem this can be done on the table saw, and with surprising speed and efficiency, but you don't end up with the smoothest surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The method is to raise the blade just high enough that it will remove the amount of material you need, then carefully hold the dowel to the mitre gauge and slide the wood over the blade. You use either a series of passes or  carefully rotate the dowel by hand, cutting the shoulder first and then nibbling away the rest of the material. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Router table&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you're doing a number of these this should be done using a simple jig to hold the work (easily made in just a few minutes). But just for one you can simply clamp two battens parallel to each other between which the dowel will be placed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mount a small straight-cutting bit in the router, then set the bit height much as you would for the table saw method above, just enough projection that you will mill off the amount of material needed to give you your final diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You use the fence as a stop, positioned so that the near side of the bit will meet your shoulder line. You slowly push the dowel into the bit and rotate it with your fingers or by rolling with the palm of your hand. The bit will simply mill off the wood you don't need, leaving a very good surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Drill press&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There are a surprising number of ways of doing this using the drill press. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory at least you can do this using a suitable tenon cutter and possibly even a hole saw, finding ones of suitable size would be the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The method given above for the router table gives a clue to what I think is the best method for doing this with a drill press, in theory at least. It's essentially the same method upside down, with the cutting tool positioned above the dowel and not below it, but the problem is the difficulty in finding suitable bits today to do this kind of cutting at the speeds that drills run at. Drill router bits were relatively common only a few decades ago but now have almost disappeared. However, with a little creativity this may be feasible using a Forstner or similar bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the Comment above from keshlam suggests this could also be done as a turning operation on the drill press (the workpiece being held vertically). While I don't agree personally I should mention that many people don't like the idea of using the drill press this way as they believe it puts too much sideways stress on the bearings. Doing it lathe-fasion on the drill press if you want to turn down to size using any type of chisel you need to rig up a vertical tool rest off to one side, but without a rest you can do this quite easily with a file held in the hands. Stop and check your diameter frequently! It would be very easy to overshoot the mark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost all of the machine operations have one critical flaw, that really you could do with running a test (possibly more than one) to check your setup before committing to doing the work on the finished piece. Doing it by hand you can more safely start work directly on a single piece because the rate of material removal is far easier to control working at handtool speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hand tools&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is the method I think you should use if you only need to do it once or twice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need only one saw, a sharp cutting tool and a file to smooth out and refine the shape (or abrasive  wrapped around a block of wood).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First step is to mark your shoulder line on the dowel, and the diameter you need on the end grain using a compass or dividers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you carefully saw down to the required depth at the shoulder line, working around the circumference. If you're not confident you can saw to the correct depth don't worry, err on the side of caution and deliberately saw shallow. You can easily make up for this in the following steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you simply pare or whittle away most of the wood that needs to come off, working either towards or away from the shoulder as you prefer and according to the grain direction. You can use a chisel or sharp knife here, even a marking knife can be used for this sort of thing if it's sharp enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you are down close to your desired diameter either switch to using the file or sandpaper, or stop paring/whittling and begin to scrape the wood with the edge. Final smoothing should be done with a file or abrasive paper, always backed with a hard block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might sound crude but this method is capable of achieving very good accuracy if you work slowly and carefully and stop to check your diameter on a regular basis — you'll feel like a chump if you go to this much trouble only to remove too much material and end up with a loose fit :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T09:00:53.560" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4440" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-24T14:00:27.247" Score="6" ViewCount="1113" Body="&lt;p&gt;When green wood is air dried, the first step is to seal the ends. What is the traditional Japanese method of sealing the ends?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2016-07-24T17:33:21.687" LastActivityDate="2016-11-25T14:51:10.550" Title="Traditional Japanese method of sealing wood?" Tags="|wood-drying|history|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4435" CreationDate="2016-07-24T14:12:06.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This one: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amanatool.com/products/router-bits/profiling-router-bits/bullnose-router-bits/51547-carbide-tipped-bullnose-1-4-radius-x-1-dia-x-1-x-1-4-inch-shank.html#!prettyPhoto&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amanatool.com/products/router-bits/profiling-router-bits/bullnose-router-bits/51547-carbide-tipped-bullnose-1-4-radius-x-1-dia-x-1-x-1-4-inch-shank.html#!prettyPhoto&lt;/a&gt; appears to be tapped for a bearing, but you'd want to verify that they haven't changed them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately, you could use an edge guide and avoid the whole bearing thing entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T16:45:44.650" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T16:45:44.650" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4442" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-24T17:49:39.243" Score="4" ViewCount="594" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sometimes have to cut down some trees, and that is usually not a problem. It is mostly intuitive what the best way to make the cut is. However, there is one type of trees I often struggle to decide how to cut down in an optimal way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine a slope with a tree having two stems, both leaning outwards (there are lots of them). Here are some strategies I have tried before:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WWqxT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WWqxT.png&quot; alt=&quot;different cuts&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cutting the lowest part first, from the top. This is mostly not possible, as my saw can not fit in between.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My saw can fit by sawing straight down, but that is a long and tiresome cut, and in addition, I have to remove the long and sharp leftover afterwards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This one is great, except for the fact that my handsaw always gets stuck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I take the upper part first, it is not falling because it leans on the other one, threatening to fall in my head when I attempt to cut down the other one. Not comfortable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This issue may not be the most important one in the world, but it manages to frustrate me every time it comes up. I hope you have some suggestions on how to solve this problem in an easy and secure way to make the world a slightly better place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2504" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T16:42:24.340" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T13:25:15.617" Title="How to cut down bifurcated trees on a slope" Tags="|safety|wood|cutting|hand-saw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4414" CreationDate="2016-07-24T20:49:06.687" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, you're overusing it.  But depending on what your situation is, that might be okay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you plan to do this a lot, and you can make an up front investment, a better quality router will be much nicer to use and will last for years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is a hobby you're trying out, and the router + sled is giving you a satisfactory result, then go hog wild, man.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The internet will always be glad to give you a way to spend more money, and they're usually right at the professional level.  In my shop, I can afford to replace a burnt out $60 router every 2 or 3 years.  I buy used stuff and keep it creative in a way that would never work if this were my living.  Your mileage may vary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2354" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T20:49:06.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4444" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4456" CreationDate="2016-07-25T17:12:30.217" Score="3" ViewCount="5517" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am completely new to wood working and am currently designing a computer desk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not know what length screws to use and the distance between them and dowels. Any other advice would be gratefully received.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am designing in Sketchup&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plan on using 18mm plywood&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using 6mm screws&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3.5mm pilot hole&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With 6mm dowels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Was asked to clarify my problem and to provide a picture-  What length screws do I need to use to build a computer desk? Also what distance should I have between screws and dowels for best strength?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have added dimensions and labels to the image hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DHIQp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DHIQp.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screen grab with dimentions&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is nothing fixed in stone with the dimensions as yet. I am thinking of adding some drawers just under the top, and will be adding support to the shelves. The cylinder shapes on the bottom left are for making holes in the plan for screws and dowels&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2503" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2016-08-02T21:31:38.863" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T21:31:38.863" Title="What length screw should I use for a computer desk" Tags="|design|screws|planning|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4442" CreationDate="2016-07-25T18:32:15.443" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also assume you know the multiple cut technique for felling a tree to guide it's direction and discourage kick-back... And that if there is any doubt you'll arrange rigging to guide it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T18:32:15.443" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4444" CreationDate="2016-07-25T20:11:48.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming that for a desk, you do not want the screws to be visible from the work surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that is true, then you probably want to use a system like the Kreg pocket hole jig, which actually calculates the length of the screw for you based on the thickness of the material the screw is drilling into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using butt joints (or dado joints) and do not mind having the screw visible, you can have a 25mm (I work in US so please excuse inaccuracies) to 38mm screw to join the two materials together; you can space the screws from 15 to 20cm apart. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also some great resources you can refer to, like &quot;The Joint Book&quot; which may be available at your local library, or for purchase at Amazon.com.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also want to check out wood joining articles at FineWoodworking.com; an enjoyable site with lots of tips and videos for all levels of woodworker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2508" LastEditorUserId="2508" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T20:53:04.593" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T20:53:04.593" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4447" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4449" CreationDate="2016-07-25T20:50:35.647" Score="3" ViewCount="320" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would it be strong enough if I was to add 1ft of fence post to a 5ft garden post using a box joint? I am looking at attaching a 6ft wooden gate to it on one side and a standard fence panel to the other side&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2509" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T05:51:47.350" Title="Adding height to wooden fence post" Tags="|box-joint|fence|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4447" CreationDate="2016-07-26T07:16:49.897" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, I think a box-joint would provide sufficient strength, at least if you add the additional foot on top, and not on the bottom where there might be more leverage on the joint, but even there it would probably suffice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd cut the fingers on the thin and long side, as most of the strength in the joint will come from the glue, and more, longer fingers will mean more gluing surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gPM5B.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gPM5B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(example image for long finger joints from &lt;a href=&quot;http://woodgears.ca/squares/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;woodgears.ca&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the box-joint I remembered a video that might proof some good food for thoughts by Mathias Wandel where he &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VlfHtHv4ns4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;fixes a broken chair leg&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2262" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T07:16:49.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4447" CreationDate="2016-07-26T08:09:52.930" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A box joint might be strong enough but that's just a guess, the loads placed on the finished post will determine if it is or it isn't, along with how accurately it's cut of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could be a bit difficult cutting a box joint in situ on a standing fence post accurately enough! Even if for that reason alone you may want to go for something simpler, like a &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/707/how-can-i-join-two-boards-at-the-ends/708#708&quot;&gt;scarf joint&lt;/a&gt; (glued and further strengthened by nailing, screws or through-bolts). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could get away with a butt joint, suitably reinforced, if you don't mind the aesthetics. Even though this is an end-grain joint you should glue it, with structural adhesive or epoxy, but the reinforcing metal plates attached to the outside will provide most of the strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to give some thought to whether it would be better to bite the bullet and take out the 5 foot post and replace it with a 6 foot post. Probably simpler and faster and it might work out cheaper at the end of the day, best of all there wouldn't be any worries about the strength of whatever lengthening method you chose otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T05:51:47.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4442" CreationDate="2016-07-26T13:25:15.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Number 2 is the way a lumberjack would do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do number 3, but you would need to lift the tree to take the pressure off. This can be done with a winch. A wedge board is placed against the larger tree and a chain is wrapped around both. Then you winch the chain tight using a come along. If there is another tree or stump further up the slope, then the tree can also be winched against that to pull it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T13:25:15.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4451" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4452" CreationDate="2016-07-26T22:34:43.573" Score="5" ViewCount="616" Body="&lt;p&gt;I resawed a 2x4 I've had in my garage for a couple years down to about 3/8th in strips to make the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hk4eW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hk4eW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;finished&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After gluing the panels togerther, I glued and screwed support strips to the back hoping to avoid what happened:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TV6Le.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TV6Le.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;back&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's been a few days now since I Stained it and it's now warped (and seems to be getting worse:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MJRQu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MJRQu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;warped&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The support strips just bent along with the rest of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did I not wait long enough during various stages of the project (only about a week from start to staining) or was my decision to use garage 2x4 the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2512" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T01:16:21.103" Title="Is this a case of just using the wrong wood? (Warping)" Tags="|warp|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4451" CreationDate="2016-07-27T00:09:05.287" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The strips you secured to the bottom are the cause of the warping.  The main boards can't expand and contract because they are fixed to the strips at a few points.  If the boards were just glued to each other then it would expand/contract as a single panel.  This is the same problem you face with tabletops, hence the need for connections that allow movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, not sure if you did in this case, but alternating the boards up/down/up/down will help prevent this type of warping as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point I would try removing the strips to see if it flattens out.  If it does, and you wanted to keep the strips for support, the solution would be to cut keyways (or large holes) where the screws attach so that the panel can move relative to the strips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Placing cauls across the panel while you glue and clamp it will also help keep it nice and flat as the glue dries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastEditorUserId="11" LastEditDate="2016-07-28T01:16:21.103" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T01:16:21.103" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4451" CreationDate="2016-07-27T03:26:01.717" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The panel is curving because the support strips running perpendicular to the panel boards are flexible. The panel boards have dried and shrunk while the support strips remained unchanged in length. If the support strips were stiffer, the panel would not curve, but instead, the panel boards would be splitting.  It the ambient moisture conditions were different (i.e. high humidity) the panel boards would have grown in width and the curvature would have been reversed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is indeed the classic table top problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had simply skipped the use of glue to make the panel, and had simply screwed the panel boards to the support strips (with a small space between boards) your panel would have remained relatively flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The panel might have remained relatively flat if you had simply omitted the strips, but you would have been challenged to have a flat panel just due to the vagaries of gluing up a panel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-07-27T03:33:24.967" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T03:33:24.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4454" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-30T21:57:52.710" Score="3" ViewCount="221" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to custom install Ikea PAX sliding doors into my existing closets, recessing them into the closet opening.  My idea is to create a custom &quot;frame&quot; simulating the Ikea closet frame onto which to install the Ikea mounting hardware.  The Ikea hardware is designed to slide onto a 3/4&quot; thick frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: would a 3/4&quot; x 3/4&quot; wood molding screwed onto a 1.5&quot; x 6&quot; or a 2&quot; x 6&quot; wood plank be able to support the 130 lb Ikea doors?  The top rail would be screwed onto the molding and the weight of the sliding doors would rest entirely upon this molding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the photo below to illustrate the design.  In this picture the sliding doors would be mounted to the molding and the doors would face left (the inside of the closet would be to the right).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can screw the molding to the larger wood piece every foot and also use wood glue between them.  I have no experience in wood working and such a small molding seems like it might not hold up.  Thanks! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DEw7F.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DEw7F.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Design of custom recessed frame for sliding doors&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2529" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T12:39:09.513" Title="Load Bearing Weight Capacity of a 3/4&quot; x 3/4&quot; Wood Molding?" Tags="|weight-capacity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4444" CreationDate="2016-07-31T07:39:28.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly the big issue for most woodworkers, the question of screwing into the edges of plywood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll see plenty of advice not to do this if you look around, but you'll also see admissions from lots of folks who do it all the same and most will tell you that it works fine if done properly. There are various tips about how best to accomplish this without issues, here's a summary from various sources:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thicker plywood is a better choice when attempting to screw into edges. 18mm or 3/4&quot; is often the minimum thickness recommended so you're good here.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Always centre the screws on the thickness of the plywood.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill suitable pilot holes (note: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2708/are-there-specific-types-of-screws-i-should-use-for-woodworking/2714#2714&quot;&gt;clearance holes and counterbores&lt;/a&gt; are needed in the piece the screw goes through).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Squeeze the faces of the plywood with a clamp when driving the screw in to physically prevent it from splitting or bowing. This can be worth doing even if using self-tapping screws.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't screw near a corner (even if using the clamp trick). Place screws at least 5-6cm from a corner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pick your screws with care.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glue the plywood butt joint, that way the screws aren't being relied upon for strength but are mostly there to initially hold the case together while the glue dries.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So as per the above you should ideally glue the edges of your ply to the case sides but you may want to avoid that for a few reasons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the surface plies of modern plywood are often too weak (too thin, and not bonded well enough) to reliably glue to.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it makes assembly much more difficult and frustrating if you've never done it before.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;much less glue squeeze-out to clean up when you're done (this is surprisingly difficult to do properly, and even harder on plywood surfaces than on solid wood because of the way the veneer is peeled from the log). However, you can protect adjacent surfaces with tape to prevent the problem in the first place, similar to how it's used &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2813/should-i-finish-before-during-or-after-assembly/2815#2815&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; to protect joints from finish.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I do not know what length screws to use and the distance between them and dowels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Longer is better for strength, but increases the potential for the screw to split or bulge the plywood at the edges. But screw &lt;em&gt;type&lt;/em&gt; is arguably more important than length. Basic wood screws aren't ideal for plywood, although they can work OK. &lt;strong&gt;Confirmat screws&lt;/strong&gt; are often recommended for use on plywood due to their superior holding power but common &lt;strong&gt;chipboard screws&lt;/strong&gt; should work perfectly well and are far easier to find, these screws are made to hold in material much less dense than you'll find in the edges of plywood so should hold extremely well in anything better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've selected your screw it would be advisable to do a few tests screwing into some offcuts of your plywood, because the quality of ply varies so much what one person has had success with does not guarantee success for you, using a different make or type. Test to find out what size of pilot hole works best and whether or not you need to clamp the plywood to help prevent it bowing or splitting — the larger the diameter of pilot hole the less the chance of these problems, but at the cost of lower holding power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Truth be told the dowels you're planning on using as well will add a lot of strength here, much more than they often do in a joint (in solid wood). If you're buying lengths of dowel and sawing it down yourself you should groove the dowel pegs to aid them being driven home, see previous Question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3841/how-can-i-flute-my-own-dowel-or-create-dowel-with-similar-properties&quot;&gt;How can I flute my own dowel or create dowel with similar properties&lt;/a&gt;. Also chamfer the leading edges, just as is done on commercial dowels, which can be done with a sharp chisel, in a pencil sharpener (yes, really) or simply by rotating the dowels against abrasive paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T07:39:28.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4454" CreationDate="2016-07-31T13:58:44.523" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;While your concept can certainly work, there are several considerations that will help it perform well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wood species.  A softwood is not nearly as strong and will be more prone to splitting especially if the molding is attached with screws (as shown).  Consider using a hardwood for both the molding and the 2x6 parts.  If you use  a hardwood, you could use a 1x6 for attachment to the wall.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;attachment method.  You show screws to connect the molding to the 2x6.  I would recommend attaching the pieces using PVA (standard wood glue). This will be plenty strong enough for the load.  If you do use screws pre-drill the holes in to prevent splitting the wood when the screw is installed.  Drill the hole in the molding just large enough to allow the screw to slide in without turning and the hole in the 2x6 approaching the diameter of the screw shaft so that for the most part, only the threads are engaging the wood.  Do not over tighten the screws.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grain direction.  IF screws are used, I would recommend that the grain direction for both the hanger and the molding be side to side rather than vertical to prevent splitting and pullout of the screws over time (the screws are very close to the bottom of the 2x6.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mounting the 2x6.  Be sure that the screws used are long enough to reach into a stud in the wall at least 1 1/2&quot;.   Make sure to stagger them so they do not align vertically.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2016-08-03T12:39:09.513" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T12:39:09.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4444" CreationDate="2016-07-31T14:32:20.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the addition of your sketch for the design of your desk several other design considerations besides screw length come to mind. Although this answer does not directly address your question it might be helpful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Desktop projection.  If you want to sit at this desk, the top should project further than the base.  Many desks have an op[en area so that a chair can park under the desk.  The raised base on your desk will prevent that and will limit how close to the desk you can sit. Consider projecting the top at least 30cm beyond the base.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shelf support.  The shelves on the left lack support at the back and right side.  The shelves should have support on all three sides.  A  back panel and a divider panel in the middle would improve things.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lateral bracing. The cross braces at the back may not be adequate to prevent the entire desk from leaning side to side and trying to fold up.  A back panel or skirt at the underside of the top attaching to the top and sides would help keep the desk rigid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feel free to ask another question if you want additional clarifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T14:32:20.210" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4459" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4460" CreationDate="2016-08-01T00:17:44.807" Score="6" ViewCount="6383" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a name sign and had a &quot;duh&quot; moment after I started routing the edges.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way - or perhaps another technique that someone could recommend - to get the routed edge in these tighter areas?  Would a chisel be appropriate here? Perhaps a different tool/technique completely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Along the same lines: how about getting a sharper corner on the edge (see green circles in photo below)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Btw, I'm using a Dewalt handheld router.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GgPB7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GgPB7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qgIuW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qgIuW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Some PhotoShop magic to illustrate edges a little better&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="872" LastEditorUserId="872" LastEditDate="2016-08-01T00:27:33.103" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T17:30:14.547" Title="Routing tight edges/corners" Tags="|technique|router|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4459" CreationDate="2016-08-01T06:42:03.090" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there any way ... to get the routed edge in these tighter areas? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not with that router bit. The bearing size determines the minimum clearance at an inside corner. You can have a full roundover if there are rounded corners or have sharp corners that the roundover misses, it's an either/or.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would a chisel be appropriate here? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, chisels and gouges to get into tight spots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your chisels must be very sharp for this to work well. Sharper edges are good for all woods but are especially important when working softwoods as the pale earlywood is particularly soft or spongy and is hard to cut cleanly using edged tools (paradoxically a harder wood cuts better, although there is greater resistance).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need tips on how to sharpen chisels, see these previous Q&amp;amp;As:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/672/is-there-a-best-way-to-sharpen-an-edged-tool-like-a-chisel&quot;&gt;Is there a &amp;#39;best&amp;#39; way to sharpen an edged tool like a chisel?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3820/how-do-i-sharpen-curved-tools-like-gouges&quot;&gt;How do I sharpen curved tools like gouges?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2076/what-criteria-would-want-me-to-bevel-my-chisel-in-a-certain-way&quot;&gt;What criteria would want me to bevel my chisel in a certain way&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And some help in determining sharpness:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3374/how-can-i-tell-if-wood-turning-lathe-chisels-are-sharp&quot;&gt;How can I tell if wood turning (lathe) chisels are sharp?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;perhaps another technique &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This won't work if you want the letters to overlap as you have here but if it's acceptable to have them just touching there is a trick, and that is to saw out each letter separately and round them over individually, then glue them to a thin backer board to bring the word together with the letters touching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cnezE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cnezE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rounded over individual letters&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;strong&gt;Making Wood Signs&lt;/strong&gt; by Patrick Spielman&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T06:42:03.090" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4461" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-01T11:29:07.147" Score="1" ViewCount="203" Body="&lt;p&gt;About 6 months ago, I built an aquarium wood table (stand). to build it, I used pine wood 0.63&quot; sheets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;for 5-6 months it was great, though few days ago I noticed that the top sheet that the aquarium is sitting on it - getting bent. I can't understand what is causing this phenomenon! I was thinking maybe the material wasn't good or maybe there's too much pressure on this sheet, so I'm thinking of changing this top sheet to an oak 1&quot; sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;what do you think about this problem? how can I solve it? I attach pictures. thanks in advanced for advising,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;links to video and pictures of the table:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i59tJuQPdi4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Youtube Link to Table review&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jeepolog.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=109503&amp;amp;d=1469310572&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Picture No.1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jeepolog.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=109502&amp;amp;d=1469310590&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Picture No.2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jeepolog.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=109501&amp;amp;d=1469310605&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Picture No.3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jeepolog.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=109519&amp;amp;d=1469357284&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Picture No.4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2510" LastActivityDate="2016-09-03T12:47:15.807" Title="Building a table for aquarium" Tags="|wood|wood-repair|table-making|pine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4461" CreationDate="2016-08-01T12:09:57.337" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Judging by the pictures and the movie, I'd say the problem is just warping of the pine boards. The fact that the boards are straight at the center (where they are screwed to the vertical legs) and only the edges are bent suggests that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible that the aquarium environment is more humid than the rest of the house, making the warping worse. But this can also happen with low quality pine boards that were not thoroughly dried before dimensioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest replacing the pine boards with a high quality marine grade plywood (or at least a plywood sheet that will handle moisture better). If 5/8&quot; pine is enough for the weight of the aquarium, 3/4&quot; plywood should be more than enough, and you could probably go thinner (down to 5/8&quot; or even 1/2&quot;), depending on the full weight of the aquarium (plus water).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you would like to avoid sheets and go with solid wood (I don't think that the actual wood selection will matter all that much), make sure to fully acclimatize the wood to the aquarium environment before assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T12:09:57.337" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4459" CreationDate="2016-08-01T17:30:14.547" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a similar bit without a bearing.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(And your letters are created with a computer.)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You might be able to scale them.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And create a template to glue on top.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And route with a collar.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T17:30:14.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4464" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-02T04:44:35.937" Score="4" ViewCount="1487" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made a curved top for a letterbox by mitering and gluing the edges of narrow pieces. I've then used my spokeshave and sandpaper to get a smooth outside surface. I intended to smooth the inside using my round card scraper but have realized it's not really practical to take that amount of material off with a scraper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ACXoC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ACXoC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Curved Surface&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a similar question &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1772/what-is-the-old-school-way-of-smoothing-a-curved-surface&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. My question differs in two ways. Firstly, I'm not asking specifically about 'old school' techniques. If someone has a way of doing it with a router then I'm all ears. Secondly, the suggestion of using a compass plane in the accepted answer wouldn't work for me as the curve is too tight and I would be planing against the grain. A scorp would probably be perfect for this but unfortunately I don't have one and would prefer not to get one for a single project. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other ideas for how to get it smooth? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2326" LastEditorUserId="2326" LastEditDate="2021-05-09T21:26:25.597" LastActivityDate="2021-05-09T21:26:25.597" Title="Planing the inside of a curved surface" Tags="|sanding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4461" CreationDate="2016-08-02T08:19:54.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some guesswork is involved here as you've managed to take pics and shoot a video that don't show one or two key details of the construction :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The obvious first thought is what you're worried about, that the bowing you're seeing is due to this being made from pine. Although pine is quite strong if used the right way the tank does represent a very significant load and it may be too much for the thickness you've used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I think there's more going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Construction issues&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There are additional concerns in relation to how this is constructed, with the vertical supports cross-grain to the top. As I was writing this I realised there are actually two problems with this, not just the one I first saw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is common to all furniture with similar tops, where there must be allowance for the panel to expand and contract with changes in internal moisture level. As we can't see how the top is attached (if at all) to the upright panels it's impossible to tell if this is an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Switching to oak wouldn't necessarily be a solution as a result. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was going to write initially that if you changed to top to plywood (see Note bottom on plywood type) it would avoid these issues — there are no worries with cross-grain attachments and it is inherently stiffer so will naturally try to resist bowing under load. But then I realised the following.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second issue with the uprights is not so obvious but is potentially just as serious if not more so as it's still a factor even if the top were switched to plywood. &lt;em&gt;Being built as they are their axis of expansion and contraction is vertical&lt;/em&gt; so when those are expanded they will push upwards on the top. This wouldn't be a problem necessarily, except for the steel posts to either side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And conversely when these uprights contract they will tug on the top downwards if they're attached securely to it. If on the other hand the top just floats on them when they are at their driest point they could shrink enough to leave a gap between their upper edges and the top, which of course could be a direct cause of it bowing downwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; although it's a good grade of plywood it shouldn't be considered necessary to use marine-grade ply in this application, as although it is around water there isn't the expectation that it'll constantly get wet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T08:19:54.243" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4464" CreationDate="2016-08-02T11:53:55.260" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may or may not be a duplicate. I think the best solutions were already covered in the &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1772/what-is-the-old-school-way-of-smoothing-a-curved-surface&quot;&gt;possible duplicate candidate&lt;/a&gt;&quot;. I'd go for a thick scraper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other things i can think of from the top of my head that use power tools are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Flap Sanders&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PhX7t.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PhX7t.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image from Instructables&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Flap-Sander/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Instructable&lt;/a&gt; (picture is taken from there) and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCjA8vRlL1c7BDixQRJ39-LQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;John Heisz&lt;/a&gt; has a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UFHPbZff9Eo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pretty good video&lt;/a&gt; about it. That may be worth your while as it's not only usable with this particular project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Handheld Spindle Sander&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCO39zTYpvWL5jx2q15Ma_Hw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Izzy Swan&lt;/a&gt; has a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cv6D98oIlTk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video about making those yourself&lt;/a&gt; for a couple of bucks and I think those could work for you as well. Start with a pretty rough one(~ 60 grit) and progress to however fine you want it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;A Round Surform&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stanleytools.com/en-us/products/hand-tools/woodworking-tools/files-surform/10-in-surform-half-round-regular-cut-replacement-blade/21-299&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;surform&lt;/a&gt; is a term created by Stanley and I myself only own a plain old plane one (there might be a pun in there somewhere). They are available in round and half-round as well and this might be an option to pursue as they are not too expensive and are quite versatile. (Basically those surforms are bigger, fancier, lightweight files that pack quite a bite)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2262" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T10:36:05.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4467" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4468" CreationDate="2016-08-03T04:52:23.063" Score="6" ViewCount="7409" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Ambrosia maple&quot; is, as I understand it, a form of spalting caused when insects burrow into the tree and introduce a fungus. It produces darker stains through the light-colored wood, roughly following the grain direction, ranging from a few isolated streaks to a chaos of overlapping &quot;brush strokes&quot;. The holes are also present, of course, to add a bit more character.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's often surprisingly inexpensive for a fancy wood, perhaps because the standard grading system considers it a flaw rather than a feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the local woodworking stores got a batch of this, and I picked out a few boards I liked for a project. (Blanket chest, so I'm leaning toward one or two splashes of pattern per side, possibly with a more chaotic/denser pattern on the lid.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question is, is there a recommended finishing technique that will best display the color and detail of the spalted patterns? Or should I just finish it as I would any maple project, going light on added color to let the contrast be seen? There's also the question of whether to fill the holes with colored epoxy or leave them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of this, of course, will be a matter of taste. But if there are any known tricks or pitfalls...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2016-08-03T06:43:23.967" LastActivityDate="2018-12-11T16:58:37.927" Title="Are there any special concerns when finishing ambrosia maple?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4467" CreationDate="2016-08-03T07:55:11.860" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Question is, is there a recommended finishing technique that will best display the color and detail of the spalted patterns? Or should I just finish it as I would any maple project, going light on added color to let the contrast be seen? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of clear finishes I think the standard, or I should say &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; standard, for finishing maple will work for this too, broadly speaking. Some people aren't a fan of any finishes that add more yellowness to maple, preferring to keep it as light as possible by using a 'water-white' finish (most waterbased finishes, or lacquer), while others don't mind the yellow/orange tone imparted by shellac or varnish. Pick your poison. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one caveat I'd add is in relation to highlighting any figure. Because this beetle attack and staining can occur on any random acer, ambrosia maple planks can also exhibit the whole range of features seen on unmarked maple (both soft and hard). Where this coincides with rippling or 'curly' figure in particular I think the finishing regimen should seek to highlight the rippling as you would otherwise, as IMO it's a crying shame to see this finished in such a way that it looks a bit flat, like on the left here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5IaJQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5IaJQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rippled figure unenhanced v. enhanced&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One additional concern would be if you have areas that are punky, I don't believe it's anything like as common as on conventionally spalted woods but sometime the fungal attack has gone a bit too far and made the wood soft and spongy, and it's a PITA to try to work it and finish it. Often consolidating the area with a penetrating wood hardener, or superglue, is the only way to get a good surface and even at that there can be some slight textural difference between it and the unaffected wood which are only hidden if you build a full film finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There's also the question of whether to fill the holes with colored epoxy or leave them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm of two minds about this, while I'm a fan of filling holes/voids usually (I like the look and that you don't leave a hole which can trap dust and other crud, making them very ugly) the holes here are a specific feature of this wood so it might actually be desirable to leave them, to showcase them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-08-05T06:45:40.507" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T06:45:40.507" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4469" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4471" CreationDate="2016-08-03T21:49:25.820" Score="6" ViewCount="55850" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard that there is some wood that should not be used in a cutting board because it can be 'bad'. I am not sure what wood is not good, but I guess some wood is poisonous and stuff. I use woods like pine, black walnut, cherry, oak, red oak, cedar, maple, hickory, and sometimes aspen. Are any of these bad? And if they are why are they? What should I look out for when making a new cutting board? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="2262" LastEditDate="2016-08-04T10:19:48.403" LastActivityDate="2020-01-15T17:43:09.563" Title="What wood is not good to use in a cutting board?" Tags="|safety|wood|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4469" CreationDate="2016-08-03T23:24:20.507" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wood Database&lt;/a&gt; has an extensive database with details about &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-allergies-and-toxicity/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Allergies and Toxicities&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; for all its known woods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cedar (which has 12 varieties listed on their site at the time of this post) can cause both skin and respiratory issues. Several wood varieties can cause death.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Example:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Species:&lt;/strong&gt; Cedar, Western Red&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reaction:&lt;/strong&gt; irritant, sensitizer, runny nose, asthma, nervous system effects, NPC (rare)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Areas Affected:&lt;/strong&gt; skin, eyes, and respiratory&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Potency:&lt;/strong&gt; 5 (out of 5)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="107" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T23:24:20.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4469" CreationDate="2016-08-04T08:50:27.833" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;To a great extent this is just the flipside of the question &quot;What woods are good to use in a cutting board?&quot; and there was &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4314/what-type-of-wood-is-most-suitable-for-a-cutting-board&quot;&gt;a recent thread on this subject&lt;/a&gt; that was closed for being more likely to attract opinion-based responses. But you have asked one key follow-on question that doesn't come down just to a matter of opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are any of these bad? And if they are why are they? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per the above it depends on who you ask, so this becomes largely a matter of opinion rather than there being some definitive yes/no checklist you can refer to showing what species should and shouldn't be used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The example of western red cedar helpfully provided by Adam Zuckerman already is a perfect illustration of this, as not only is this species used for boards it's sometimes specifically chosen for use with food &lt;em&gt;for the very chemicals it contains that make it an irritant&lt;/em&gt; (Google &quot;planked salmon&quot; for more). Some of the aromatic hardwoods chosen for burning when smoking food are also good illustrations of the same principle, because someone out there is likely to hold the opinion that &quot;they shouldn't be used for boards because they'll taint the food&quot; or something along those lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of outright toxicity, not something like irritant/potential irritant properties, there are no woods you might buy and would consider using in a board that qualify, so you can put that worry out of your mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing you should focus on here as the woodworker is &lt;strong&gt;the risk to you when making the board&lt;/strong&gt;, not any danger for the user from the completed board in any normal way. So while a given species might be perfectly fine in a board, you might want to avoid using it rather than risk exposure to its dust when sawing, routing or sanding it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What should I look out for when making a new cutting board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the only part where I think you can get input that isn't merely an opinion, because it's about wood's physical properties. And the primary bit of advice is not to combine species of widely different properties in a cutting board, for durability reasons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably the main thing to focus on is avoiding combinations of species which have markedly different coefficients of movement (see table at the bottom of &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3441/what-is-the-maximum-width-for-a-full-cross-grain-glue-up/3533#3533&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;). This is for structural stability, because where pieces that expand more are locked between pieces that expand less it could put great strain on your glue joints and eventually split the board. &lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; it doesn't matter if the glue is completely waterproof or how strong the glue joints are, because if necessary the board will split the wood itself apart to relieve internal stresses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing to bear in mind is using woods with very different hardnesses, if you're concerned with how the surface will retain its looks. So for example pine can make a perfectly acceptable wood choice for a board but it shouldn't be combined with something like hard maple because the pine will wear far more than the maple over time, leading to an ugly mismatch of surface textures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T08:50:27.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4472" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-04T13:53:31.457" Score="3" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the past, I have always applied edge treatments like round-overs or chamfers before I do any finishing prep like sanding or scraping.  The router bits leave what looks like a nicely finished edge.  I then go back over these with 80grit or 120grit to start, which usually initially makes them appear worse than before.  By the time I get to my final grits, they look good again, but this made me wonder if perhaps I am doing this in the wrong order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm considering whether I should first sand the work piece to 120-150 grit, round-over the edges, and finishing sanding up the higher grits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a generally accepted workflow I should be using instead, or is it one of those &quot;it depends&quot; scenarios?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T17:59:35.993" Title="At what point in the build/finish process should I apply edge treatments with my router?" Tags="|finishing|router|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4473" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4477" CreationDate="2016-08-04T15:23:08.387" Score="3" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a small Kiln used for pottery. I use it to melt aluminum for casting. I was thinking about building an enclosed space (like plastic sheet walls), putting that kiln inside to dry some walnut slabs. Would have fans at one end (same end as the kiln) blowing towards the stacked and stickered wood. Prob then have the opposite end venting outside to get rid of the moisture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question: would this work better than air drying (better means faster)? What temp would I want the enclosure to reach to quickly dry walnut without limited side effects?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is this all just a stupid idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2541" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-08-04T18:02:01.833" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T19:13:14.063" Title="DIY Kiln Dry Walnut Plan" Tags="|wood|wood-drying|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4472" CreationDate="2016-08-04T17:59:35.993" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the past, I have always applied edge treatments like round-overs or chamfers before I do any finishing prep like sanding or scraping. ...wonder if perhaps I am doing this in the wrong order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No this is the right order. Sanding is as you say part of the finishing process, smoothing the wood in preparation for a finish to go on. So it should as much as possible always be done after any shaping steps, otherwise you're wasting effort smoothing some wood that will subsequently be removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is with the highlighted portion below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The router bits leave what looks like a nicely finished edge. I then go back over these with 80grit or 120grit to start, &lt;strong&gt;which usually initially makes them appear worse than before&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any time a process in woodworking makes a surface look less good than it did you should be thinking &quot;Am I doing the right thing here?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;80 grit is not a smoothing/finishing grit, it's a grit coarse enough to be used for material removal, i.e. a shaping operation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your routing is leaving a pretty good surface you should be sanding them minimally, just enough to even up the surface texture so that it accepts finish approximately the same as the flat portions of the workpiece. Some people don't even sand their routed profiles, but it's rare you can get away with that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The goal with all final shaping steps should be that only minimal sanding is required after, and although people do still commonly work up through the grits in two or three steps finish sanding can often be accomplished using just a single grit. The grit to use for this can be as coarse as 120 occasionally, but 150 is the usual lower limit and 220 a common upper limit, with 180 being in the sweet spot for many woodworkers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T17:59:35.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4469" CreationDate="2016-08-04T18:36:30.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The woods that are most safe to use for cutting boards are those that bear fruits, nuts, or other edibles and have tight grain - Walnut, Cherry, Maple, etc....  A mix of walnut and maple make great cutting boards whether you're planning on gluing face, edge, or end grain.  Also, make sure your glue is food-safe; I use Titebond III&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2542" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T18:36:30.693" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4473" CreationDate="2016-08-04T19:13:14.063" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;would work faster than air&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;depends on drying stage and the wood (you want to prevent cracking)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not a stupid idea&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://extension.missouri.edu/p/G5507&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://extension.missouri.edu/p/G5507&lt;/a&gt; is a good resource for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll likely need a separate thermostat/controller for your wood drying kiln (the kiln itself might have one, but i doubt it controls to low enough temperatures for wood!). It could be accomplished by cycling the power to the kiln on and off. The above link says that temps range from 120-190 ºF, depending on the stage of drying. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T19:13:14.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4479" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-05T13:51:46.850" Score="3" ViewCount="1567" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a corner shelf for spare toilet paper rolls from 6.5 mm laminated plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to order CNC cutting of the shelf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to go some fancier way than just screwing l-brackets to the wall and the shelf, for the sake of experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I came with idea of using this style of joint to connect the plywood to the wall:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bzkwN.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bzkwN.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On this picture -- the wall would be vertical, and I'd have anchors installed in it. The bolts would replace the nuts, and I'll need extra groove for a hexagon to rotate the nuts into wall anchors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is:&#xA;Is there some specific bolt head type best suited for this kind of job?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, I would go with a cam nut:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qRkse.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qRkse.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;If I can find one, that's half as deep as usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1811" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2016-08-05T17:37:22.583" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T16:18:51.140" Title="&quot;T-slot joint&quot; or &quot;cam nut&quot;- style plywood to the wall connection" Tags="|joinery|plywood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4480" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4481" CreationDate="2016-08-05T18:47:44.720" Score="3" ViewCount="2551" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on making a loft bed, and I now got a plan and I'm working on the details. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I2QtQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I2QtQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;The bed&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The measurements I'm going for is 1700(start of the top beam)x1700x2100mm. The main beams are 98x98mm, middle beam 98x48mm and the crossbeams are 48x48mm. I will probably use pine for the beams and spruce for the rest to  save some money. What I'm wondering is if this will hold the weight that gets on a double bed. I looked at &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2144/joining-corners-in-a-loft-bed&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; and some other, but they where all single beds and as i understand 98x98mm should hold a single bed just fine. Will these plans hold a double bed and does anyone know of a ballpark of how much weight it can hold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So next question, I must say I've fallen in love with the thought of just using wood for the joints, no glue or screws. So I looked about and wonder if a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/34825/3-way-miter-joint-chinese-style&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3-way Miter joint&lt;/a&gt; will hold? I understand it will be much stronger if I use glue and reinforce with screws. I will also add a desk and shelves to the bed, but before I get ahead of myself I wanted to know if my main plan would work. I mention the desk since it opens up for the possibility to add support crossbeams on the legs if that should be needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T03:36:00.080" Title="Weight bearing for a loftbed and wood only joints" Tags="|furniture|weight-capacity|miter-joint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4480" CreationDate="2016-08-06T00:16:40.547" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see three inherent weaknesses, two of which critically compromise the strength of the bed.  I'd suggest looking at commercially-produced solid wood bed frames for some design ideas (don't look at cheap futons, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1LKQh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1LKQh.png&quot; alt=&quot;illustration with callouts for weaknesses&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The support beam running down the middle is inherently weak at the ends because the top half transfers the load to the outer frame, but the top has notches cut into it.  You want a single contiguous piece from end to end for maximum load-bearing capacity.  This weakness is not present in the other question you linked. You may be able to somewhat address it by using a box spring or sheet of plywood across the top, but if the mattress is going to lie directly on this frame, I'd be concerned about that center beam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar to the other question, your design's legs appear to be very long but they don't have anything to reinforce them against racking. You may want to consider using wider but thinner lumber, as opposed to more square lumber for the outer frame. Although you will still want some additional reinforcement against racking with such long legs, a wider board will give you a longer and stronger joint between the legs and the frame. It will also be more resistant to deflection than a square beam if you orient it with its narrower edges facing up and down, and it will make your design stronger since you won't have to cut halfway through them in order to accommodate the cross bars in your design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third weakness involves all those cuts into the load-bearing parts. Some might argue that they are not very visually appealing, either, but that judgement is up to you or whoever will be using this bed.  Instead of making those cuts in the outer frame, consider installing cleats to bear the load without compromising the strength of the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2016-08-06T00:29:39.303" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T00:29:39.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4480" CreationDate="2016-08-06T03:36:00.080" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rob's concerns are important.  When you calculate the load that the main beams will carry you must ignore the depth of the notches and calculate the sag/load based only on the depth of the continuous wood below the notches.  I would also caution you regarding the use of the 3-way miter.  This is not a joint for beginners.  It will need to be tight, so unless you have been at this for a while, experiment first for practice and to evaluate the joint's strength.  Rob also point out that this joint must resist racking forces.  The constant lateral loads on the joint will encourage movement and a softwood will give over time  making the joint sloppier, which will increase the racking. In the link for the 3 miter joint you provided it shows that the joint is held in place by the three small square tenons that extend into mortises in the intersection pieces.  These pins are all that is used to resist the racking forces.  I am not sure this joint is up to the task using softwoods and I certainly would not use a joint like this at all unless it was glued.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T03:36:00.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4483" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-06T10:14:42.383" Score="15" ViewCount="61648" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wanting to make my own computer desk and I am not sure in the steps I need to take to finish it in regards to oiling and applying something like polyurethane which seems to be used in all the YouTube tutorials (it's a bit harder to find in the UK). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of using Danish Oil or a Walnut Satin Varnish. The surface is going to be used for work, eating and drinking. Would I need to apply polyurethane or another layer after applying either the oil or the varnish. Will the oil affect the colour of the wood too? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2549" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-04-04T16:03:41.550" LastActivityDate="2021-02-26T23:31:47.387" Title="Finishing a desk or tabletop?" Tags="|finishing|wood|varnish|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4483" CreationDate="2016-08-06T13:55:16.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is what I do. When you have the desk finished I sand it no higher than 220. then I apply the stain of choice for the color. Once that is all dry I would recommend using polyurethane. apply at least 2-3 coats. This will help protect the wood from getting damaged. I am not sure if the oil will color the wood. I would think if the oil has a color to it, then the wood will have the same color as well. I am hoping this helps a little. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I did a little research for you for alternatives to polyurethane. &#xA;Go to the website to read up on them but there is &quot;Tung oil, Linseed oil, Eco House Hardwood floor oil, Candelilla wax, bio paints, and AFM Safecoat&quot; From that I would get is either the wax or the safecoat. The others are oils and I do not see how they can protect wood, but I never used oil.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://greenlivingideas.com/2014/07/28/5-nontoxic-alternatives-polyurethane/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://greenlivingideas.com/2014/07/28/5-nontoxic-alternatives-polyurethane/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="2073" LastEditDate="2016-08-06T14:06:59.437" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T14:06:59.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4483" CreationDate="2016-08-06T18:34:16.713" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am bit of a Danish oil bigot.  It's been so good to me that I have trouble saying anything bad about it.  Realize that you will get a matte surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About forty years ago, I made a table, which after sanding to my heart's content (trust me, my heart is readily contented when it comes to sanding), I finished it with three or four coats of Danish oil, even though the instructions say to apply liberally once, then wipe off the excess.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For applying repeated coatings, each of which takes very little additional oil, I used fine wet/dry sandpaper (emery cloth 300 or 400 or even higher grit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The finished surface is not subject to rings from moisture and easily wipes clean.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the surface should get scratched, it can easily be sanded out and a new coat of oil applied.  (Or you can skip the sanding.) As a matter of fact, every 10 to 15 years, I have refinished the table top - this consists of removing clutter from the top, cleaning any obviously soiled places, giving it a quick once over with fine sandpaper (180 - 220 grit), then applying a coat of oil using a fine wet/dry sand paper as in the original finishing.  Good as new once it's had a chance to dry.  If there is any residual oil or sanding crud, just wipe it off with a rag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T18:34:16.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4487" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-07T15:02:04.957" Score="5" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know enough to even google.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, you see those cnc laths; the cutter on those. What are those called? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My goal is to craft or purchase a cutter that can be held in place at set distance, then I move that back and forth over the piece. I am making slightly lopsided pieces and I think I do not have the mechanical skill to keep the cutter at the same distance as I go over the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am just a hobby guy that has no clue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my mind I can see a way to do this, but hopefully there are better ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2541" LastActivityDate="2017-01-16T23:46:14.703" Title="Lathe Semi-Automation" Tags="|turning|lathe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4483" CreationDate="2016-08-08T09:23:16.777" Score="16" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;oiling and applying something like polyeurethane which seems to be used in all the youtube tutorials &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK need to run though a number of basics first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly a general caution, lots of people who posts simple guides on YouTube and elsewhere are somewhat confused or muddled in what they do in finishing. It is a complex and sometimes confusing subject but a lot of it is simply people repeating steps they saw or read elsewhere without thinking about what it is they're actually doing. And in case it needs to be said, sometime you will see advice that's outright wrong&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now about what you're planning on using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't need to oil &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; varnish. You can choose to deliberately for one or two reasons, but you can do just one or the other if you want to simplify things, reduce the number of products you need to buy and slightly speed up the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a computer desk I would personally go with varnish myself as it's the toughest of the alternatives you're considering (a bit more on this below) and perhaps just as importantly for you, it can be just as easy to apply as anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(its a bit harder to find in the UK)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Polyurethane, or poly for short, isn't harder to buy in the UK than it is in the US, it's just harder to identify. Any varnish you buy could be (might even be &lt;em&gt;likely&lt;/em&gt; to be) polyurethane already, it's just that we name some of our products differently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you buy a varnish and it happens not to be a polyurethane it will be one of only a few variants and all of them are suitable to use as a final finish in their own right so no need to worry about this too much. In general if a varnish plugs that it is scratch-resistant then that's all you really need to know for certain application such as your computer desk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would I need to apply polyeurethane or another layer after applying either the oil or the varnish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's one of the classic things that gets muddied online, you don't need to polyurethane after varnishing because &lt;em&gt;polyurethane is varnish&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Poly is just one particular type of varnish, although some purists like to classify it separately they're wrong to do so as 'varnish' was never one thing, as long as there have been commercial varnishes sold there have been different versions available with various strengths and weaknesses. Polyurethane is just one more in a long line of varnish innovations going back hundreds of years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for &quot;Danish oil&quot;, despite the name it is not actually an oil. More accurately it's classed as an 'oil finish' but even that is a bit of a misnomer, because although it largely consists of oil it is in reality a blend of oil and varnish (with some or a lot of additional white spirit). This is one of the main reasons I'm not a fan of the commercial product — it's so easy to make your own. On top of that it'll be much cheaper while also giving you the freedom to vary the ingredients as you prefer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;will the oil affect the colour of the wood too? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All finishes affect the colour of the wood to some degree. Waterbased finishes and lacquers change the colour of wood the least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil will in general affect the colour the most, deepening the tone and imparting some yellow-orange or amber colouration. Oil also increases contrast the most, magnifying grain patterns or figuring in the wood, which is why it is sometimes deliberately used in combination with varnish, to enhance the grain (called &quot;popping the grain&quot;) prior to the final finish going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Varnish will generally affect the colour just one step down from pure oil (note: this refers to oil-based varnish only).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As &quot;Danish oil&quot; is somewhere between oil and varnish it affects colour approximately in the middle, generally more like oil and less like varnish though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously this assumes an uncoloured varnish or &quot;Danish oil&quot; product, there are of course many coloured versions available which will make the wood redder, browner or whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am thinking of using Danish Oil or a Walnut Satin Varnish. The surface is going to be used for work, eating and drinking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either one of those is suitable for your requirements here if applied correctly, the main thing being that enough coats are used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want maximum protection from hot mugs, spilled liquids, scuffs and scratches, go with varnish as this builds up a coating on the wood (varnish is a &lt;em&gt;film finish&lt;/em&gt; not a penetrating finish, because it builds an actual film on the surface).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To ease application and ensure good results I would recommend thinning the varnish to turn it into what's called &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4355/protecting-against-water-damage/4356#4356&quot;&gt;wiping varnish&lt;/a&gt;, then wipe it on with a rag. &lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; the rags should be spread out flat to dry otherwise they pose a fire hazard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1] You'll find unnecessary steps promoted as a must-do-every-time (my favourite of which is sanding between coats of varnish &lt;em&gt;to guarantee adhesion&lt;/em&gt;, because this is nonsense) and occasionally important steps are omitted. Anyone wishing to learn finishing would be much better served by reading a number of modern finishing books and comparing notes between them instead of relying on random guides from YouTube of unknown quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T09:23:16.777" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4489" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-08T22:17:28.343" Score="5" ViewCount="11751" Body="&lt;p&gt;What would you guys suggest to completely seal wood (probably plywood) from moisture.&#xA;I'm building a new tank/vivarium for my lizard and while it is not going to be as damp as something like a frog tank, I still want it to be 100% sealed so I never have to worry about it (even if the inhabitants change down the road to something that needs to have rain-showers several times a day).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard from reptile groups that people have used Pond Sealer, some people advise Drylock...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are wood-working people though so I was hoping to get a more consistent answer here: What will leave the wood 100% moisture-proof, be completely vapour-free when cured (ie. safe for the inhabitant), and as a bonus: resist being scratched by smallish-reptile-claws (she digs at the walls in her tank occasionally).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2554" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T16:48:40.633" Title="Sealing plywood from moisture completely - for use as damp-reptile habitat" Tags="|plywood|water-protection|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4489" CreationDate="2016-08-09T07:47:57.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll preface this by saying that this may be a question that would be better asked on a forum of like-minded animal owners, some of whom will have tackled similar builds and they'll be able to report what worked and what didn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is very difficult to seal wood off completely from moisture using common coatings and finishes. Most of the time when woodworkers say &quot;seal the wood&quot; they're speaking informally...... &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; informally, because most coatings only do a partial job of isolating the wood from its environment and some do almost nothing! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Products that will 100% waterproof wood include bartop finishes, marine epoxy coatings and fibreglass resin, but in addition to their waterproof nature for a complete seal it also requires them to be put on thickly, the equivalent of perhaps 20 coats of regular varnish, so there is a very significant coating on the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good news is I don't think you need to go that far. Because many similar habitats I've seen, built mostly from plywood, seem to be finished off in basic coatings (probably varnish, based on the appearance and guesswork) and not in something visibly thick and with a slick, high-gloss finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suspicion is that if you use a decently water-resistant material (e.g. a suitable grade of plywood and/or any solid wood that &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3959/what-is-an-easy-way-to-seal-wood-for-outdoor-garden-use/3965#3965&quot;&gt;naturally does well outdoors&lt;/a&gt;) and simply varnished it thoroughly that you'd get the performance you want. For this I'd use polyurethane* which has good scratch-resistance. Apply four full-strength coats minimum, but six or seven would be better. If you wipe the varnish on to make it easier to apply (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4355/protecting-against-water-damage/4356#4356&quot;&gt;wiping varnish&lt;/a&gt;) you'll want to use at least 7-9 coats for an equivalent to four unthinned coats applied by brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*I mean oil-based poly here and not the waterbased type which is a completely different thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T07:47:57.853" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4489" CreationDate="2016-08-09T08:14:39.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think your best bet would be epoxy. Although it is a pain to apply on large surfaces, it will address all your concerns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's 100% moisture proof (or as close as you can get),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;quite scratch resistant as it is very hard when cured,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;vapor free when cured (at least to the best of my knowledge, I researched this quite a lot a year or so ago and opinions vary on this point)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When working with epoxy I'd read up a bit on the topic though and watch a few tutorials and make a test piece at first. This stuff has a nasty smell while working it and there are more than a few health and safety concerns when handling epoxy one should be aware of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that might not be evident in most tutorials/guides: As you want this in a vivarium i guess there will be a heat-lamp. One aspect of the epoxy is that it will start to cure further when heat is applied. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meaning that if you let the epoxy cure at ~20°C (68°F) and then put it in the vivarium where right under the lamp you have temperatures exceeding 35°C (95°F) the chemical process will pick up once again and there will be vapors. That means you might want to cure the epoxy at a temperature exceeding the final temperature of your vivarium. This will make it even harder, but take even more time to cure (up to several days).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2262" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T08:14:39.620" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4492" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4493" CreationDate="2016-08-09T10:08:56.760" Score="4" ViewCount="5170" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to build a structure of about 1.2m x 1m x 0.5m (specifically it's a 1:6 doll house) in 12mm (half-inch) ply and don't want to use internal square-section to support the corners, because this will encroach into the interior space.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm considering using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.startwoodworking.com/post/unlock-secrets-lock-miter-joint&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;mitre lock joints&lt;/a&gt; but the information for this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/Trend-C189X1-Mitre-lock-small/dp/B0052XVUIQ/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_3?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1470735052&amp;amp;sr=8-3-fkmr0&amp;amp;keywords=routerlocking+mitre+bit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;mitre lock bit&lt;/a&gt; states that it should only be used inverted.   However, I don't have a router table, nor do I have space to keep one if I bought it.   So I'd like to know if there is a technique for using this kind of mitre lock bit without a table, for example with some kind of jig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expect that a device like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodrat.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;WoodRat&lt;/a&gt; would be capable of doing this, but it takes up almost as much space as a roter table, so I'm somewhat reluctant to go that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can mitre lock joints be made (in plywood) without a routing table?   How?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2557" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T18:58:22.823" Title="Can miter lock joints be made without a routing table?" Tags="|joinery|plywood|miter-joint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4492" CreationDate="2016-08-09T11:44:25.603" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason the lock miter bit is restricted to the router table is mostly for safety - it is a large diameter bit, and it exerts a lot of force on whoever is holding the router, be it you or the table. In addition, using it handheld will increase the risk of misalignment of the cut, which is crucial for the lock miter to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest building a temporary router table - just take a piece of plywood, cut a hole (easiest with a hole-saw) for the router bit to poke out, and connect the router base plate using mounting screws (check your router's base plate to see which ones you need. You might even got some with the router). The fence can be any flat piece of wood that you can clamp while adjusting the lock miter (and you can even screw the fence in after the setup is good). The fence doesn't need to be aligned in any particular way, and it should just be flat enough around the router bit. Clamp the plywood to another table, lower the bit all the way, turn on the router and slowly raise it, so that the router bit will make a hole in the fence for itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something similar to this (picture from Google Images search).&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F1Ii1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F1Ii1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Temporary router table example&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T11:44:25.603" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4494" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4503" CreationDate="2016-08-09T17:09:05.417" Score="4" ViewCount="942" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to create some dice out of scrap mora wood I have, similar to the photo below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lk6fE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lk6fE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The d20 (twenty sided die) requires many cuts on a very small block of wood. &lt;strong&gt;What is the safest method for creating something like this?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A hand saw seems like it would be too difficult to hold the block down during the cut, but power saws just seem outright dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1035" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T20:01:26.043" Title="Safest way to cut very small blocks" Tags="|safety|cutting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4494" CreationDate="2016-08-09T17:24:58.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;you need to clamp the workpiece in some way, regardless of using hand or power tools. toggle clamps (on a little sled, say) and wooden handscrew clamps are very helpful to accomplish this for small pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T17:24:58.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3631" CreationDate="2016-08-09T17:36:01.703" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the same lathe. I don't know how the previous owner changed speeds, as it was screwed to the workbench. When I got it home, I built a stand for it. I mounted the motor on a 2x6, which i fastened to the stand with a hinge. On the other side, I cut a slot to fit over a bolt that sticks out of the stand. So, when I need to change the speed, I just loosen the wingnut on the bolt, raise the motor on the hinge, change pulleys, set the motor down and fasten the wingnut. Takes all of 30 seconds to change speeds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2558" LastEditorUserId="2262" LastEditDate="2016-08-10T11:48:21.363" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T11:48:21.363" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4492" CreationDate="2016-08-09T18:58:22.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you are using a high grade plywood, a miter lock bit is likely to produce a lot of tear-out.  I've never seen one used in anything other than solid wood.  And unless it's an exposed joint that you want to show off, it's more than you need for a solid join.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider using a dado and rabbet (a.k.a lock rabbet) joint instead. It's easy to make with a standard straight bit, and provides plenty of strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2560" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T18:58:22.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4498" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4504" CreationDate="2016-08-09T20:21:31.180" Score="3" ViewCount="5663" Body="&lt;p&gt;Often, chisels bought new will have end caps, as shown in the image below.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1CmH3m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1CmH3m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;chisels offered for sale on eBay&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I have a number of old chisels and gouges that lack end caps. What can I use to protect their edges and protect myself and my stuff from their edges?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making a box for them is not really an option, since they're not part of a set and I try to pick up more as I come across them in thrift stores, flea markets, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="64" LastActivityDate="2017-10-06T15:59:49.297" Title="Where to get end caps for chisels or what to use instead?" Tags="|tool-maintenance|chisel|gouge|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4498" CreationDate="2016-08-09T22:05:02.557" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a product called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dipseal.com/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dipseal&lt;/a&gt; for stuff like that.  If you have ever had a saw blade sharpened, this is the stuff that the edges are covered in when you get it back.  It can be melted and reused.  I bought a 5 pound container of it years ago, and use it to coat forstner bits, chisels, and really anything with an edge that I want to protect.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can purchase it from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.use-enco.com/1/1/67873-ds300g-type-1-dip-seal-oil-exuding-green-strippable-plastic-strippable-peelable-coatings.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Enco&lt;/a&gt; and a couple pounds will last a lifetime.  Machine shops use it to protect milled surfaces from damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit&#xA;Here are some photos of one of my corner chisels with the covering&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g07Fd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g07Fd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;chisel with guard&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sKNKa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sKNKa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;guard removed&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastEditorUserId="286" LastEditDate="2016-08-10T13:38:11.753" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T13:38:11.753" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4494" CreationDate="2016-08-09T23:21:01.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, you need a very precise cut to make a balanced die. The precision needs to be in the thousandths of an inch, if not ten thousandths. That is nothing you are going to do with run of the mill woodworking equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making custom fixtures to do something like this would be very laborious and complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally items like this are made using a compound dividing head on a vertical mill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-08-10T20:01:26.043" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T20:01:26.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4498" CreationDate="2016-08-10T00:25:09.313" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A fabric or leather tool roll is another classic solution, if you're willing to protect the set rather than individual chisels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T00:25:09.313" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1682" CreationDate="2016-08-10T06:32:17.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to sanding. I have just taken up furniture restoration as a hobby. 4 days ago I sanded outside for 2-3 hours with out a mask. I have been in bed 2 days solid so far with flue like symptoms and a tight chest. Doctor says it's inhalation fever... Trust me when I say wear a mask, you do not want to feel like this! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2561" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T06:32:17.270" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4494" CreationDate="2016-08-10T08:33:30.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think it's feasible to cut exactly enough for this to work, especially on the more-sided dice with their odd angles. Besides the meticulous precision you need there is also the point of repeatability. The angles of those dice are so odd that building fixtures for them would be very very hard as &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/users/306/treow-wyrhta&quot;&gt;Treow Wyrtha&lt;/a&gt; mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nevertheless, if you found a way to repeatably be very precise, these dice would be awesome and my D&amp;amp;D playing friends would sacrifice a char for one of those :) So the approches I think could work are either a mold, a CNC or better yet, a combination of those two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;The Mold&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ask someone with a 3D-printer if they can print you a mold of half the die. You could try molding clay or liquid molding silicone, but i think the results wouldn't be accurate enough. Then start cutting/sanding/filing your die and try to fit it in the mold and repeat the process until it fits perfectly in the mold on either side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;CNC Routing The Dice&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know you said you want to do it with scrap wood and that pretty much rules out the CNC option, but in general I think it's a viable way to go when one wants to &#xA;cut intricate shapes repeatably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides needing a CNC machine (which may exceed your budget) there is still a lot of handwork to be done afterwards, once the basic shapes of the dice are milled. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Routing Halfs On The Table&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine that you could mill halves of the dice to as close as you can get them to perfection. After they are milled you can glue them together and sand/file away the steps the CNC will leave you with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Routing Them Out On A Spinning Dowel&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wihile looking up the feasibility of my CNC idea i found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCo9cX0pgmI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this YouTube Video&lt;/a&gt; that explains this way better than i ever could with words.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;A Combination Of Those Two&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The methods support each other quite nicely and can be used without each other as well, although, if you already have a CNC, the mold would probably not be that much of a problem, and if you don't... buying a CNC for carving some dice is probably a bit much :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2262" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T08:33:30.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4498" CreationDate="2016-08-10T08:54:12.920" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simplest solution of all is seems to be to just to buy plastic end caps/edge protectors, which are available from some online tool vendors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oTyz2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oTyz2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Commercial plastic chisel protectors&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But these have a few problems. The available sizes won't fit all chisel widths you might eventually collect (both Imperial and metric), and while you can always go up a size in theory as vintage chisels are often thicker than modern ones getting a good fit may still prove impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So making your own is going to work out a better solution for a lot of woodworkers, especially those building a collection of vintage chisels. And taking the DIY approach allows you to make matching protectors for gouges of any sweep and potentially any other edge tools you want to protect as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 'high-tech' solution is to use a dip product or a mouldable rubber or plastic. Dips include the Dip Seal mentioned by LeeG as well as the classic Plasti Dip beloved of toolheads*. Mouldable products include Sugru or the homemade equivalent and for something harder a thermo-forming plastic like Utile Plast, Mold-It or ThermoMorph. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A low-tech solution is one of the oldest, and that is a leather cap. These are still fairly common today on some very large chisels like slicks and used by some woodworkers for their smaller chisels too. You can buy them from a few sources but some are homemade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0ggUu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0ggUu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Leather edge protectors&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I go even lower-tech than this and make simple tight-fitting cardboard sleeves. They work out a bit cheaper too since the cardboard is free, harvested from packaging such as blister packs or small boxes, scored and folded to fit and glued together with PVA glue. The results aren't pretty but they get the job done:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IQRtK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IQRtK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cardboard sleeves&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If aesthetics matter to you you can pick the cardboard with more care, or paint it after the glue has dried :-) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*See a hybrid method using Plasti Dip as the topcoat from Chris Schwarz &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/make-your-own-edge-guards&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; on Popular Woodworking. The older method he mentions in this piece he presented back in 2009 as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/origami-chisel-protectors&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Origami Chisel Protectors&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T08:54:12.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4505" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-11T03:03:52.170" Score="2" ViewCount="3600" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some very small squares that I am gluing for a checker board. Each square is .75 inch by .75 inch. I am gluing them by taking one square and the next, gluing and add another. But I am not clamping, just pressing them tight together. They have been holding good. I would clamp them but them they do a C motion and I do not have anyplace to plane them being so thin (.25 inch). What are good methods for gluing such small pieces? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="400" LastEditDate="2016-08-11T21:03:09.733" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T21:03:09.733" Title="gluing small pieces" Tags="|wood|glue|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4506" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4511" CreationDate="2016-08-11T04:53:10.250" Score="4" ViewCount="246" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am starting a tinker group for kids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen these wooden posts pictured in a number of tinkering setups, since they have pre-drilled holes and can be connected relatively easily by young children.  But what are they?! Someone I know said they are used in furniture building?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6jrDo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6jrDo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;picture of wooden strips and posts&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I9i1e.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I9i1e.png&quot; alt=&quot;picture of wooden posts&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks so much for your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2565" LastActivityDate="2019-05-14T22:13:17.353" Title="What are these wooden posts?" Tags="|furniture|tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4505" CreationDate="2016-08-11T05:02:15.730" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally, anything tiled is built on top of a backing board or a base of some kind and the tiles are glued to the backing board, not to each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, for some reason, you want to just glue tiles together with no support, then one technique is to not apply the glue to the pieces directly. Instead, roll the glue out on a plastic surface, like an acrylic panel, using a brayer. Then, touch the edge of the tile to the surface. This will put a very clean, consistent layer of glue on the tile. As always when gluing, it is better to put two thin layers of glue on both sides, rather one thick layer on one side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastEditorUserId="306" LastEditDate="2016-08-11T12:41:33.717" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T12:41:33.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4505" CreationDate="2016-08-11T08:57:20.907" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not clear if you're glueing squares one at a time to each other and whether you will eventually glue to a backer board so some of the following may not apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly two general points. You should be clamping if strength is important at the end of the day. The only common glue used by woodworkers that doesn't require any clamp pressure is epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note you're dealing with some end grain with these pieces and when you glue end grain it will inherently lead to weaker joints, most especially if it turns out that end grain will be bonded to end grain. But if you're alternating the grain direction from one piece to the next like this |–|–| there are no end-grain to end-grain joints to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What are good methods for gluing such small pieces? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you're glueing the pieces one at a time to their neighbours to build up strips which will eventually be brought together to make up the checker board. If so it's not a good idea. In addition to being inefficient working that way small errors can build up and before you know it one row of eight is fractionally longer than another and your finished pattern is spoiled. Worse still, you can easily end up with a row that curves very slightly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be much better, if possible, to glue all the squares in one operation using a slow-setting glue and this is the type of thing where a clamping rig comes into its own. This can be a temporary setup, something made up on the bench using dogs, the vice etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can then apply pressure from all four sides at once, as well as from the top with a clamping board and cauls, or just very heavy weight placed on top (e.g. concrete blocks*) to keep everything flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a clamping board shown in a previous Answer &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m0yk2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; that shows how a simple clamping rig can be thrown together based on a sheet of plywood. In this case you'd tack or screw on four stops or fences, making sure that at least one corner is a perfect 90° angle. Wedges and packer strips if necessary bridge the gaps to the other two fences and apply the necessary clamping pressure side to side and top to bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now all that aside, there is this...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How it's usually done&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The classic way to build up a chequerboard pattern means you are never dealing with individual squares or blocks at all. Instead, you glue up long strips of your alternate species into a panel which is then cross-cut into strips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YyC0M.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YyC0M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Checker board strips&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every second strip if flipped end for end and then everything is finally glued up into the completed board pattern. Minor variations of this technique are shown &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/how-to-plans/how-to/g1501/how-to-build-a-chess-and-checkerboard/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; on Popular Mechanics, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thefrankes.com/wp/?p=184&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; on theFrankes.com and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/solid-wood-Chess-board/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; on Intructables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/37556/use-wedges-to-edge-glue-thin-boards&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Use wedges to edge glue thin boards&lt;/a&gt; on Fine Woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;and I do not have anyplace to plane them being so thin (.25). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to hand plane small, thin pieces you can make yourself a planing hook (a type of bench hook) with a low fence specifically for work of this nature. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1321/whats-a-bench-hook/1327#1327&quot;&gt;What&amp;#39;s a bench hook?&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1846/planing-thin-stock-without-the-aid-of-bench-dogs/1860#1860&quot;&gt;Planing thin stock without the aid of bench dogs&lt;/a&gt; for more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option gleaned from old books was that used for creating thin wedges for use in joint work. You chisel a small recess (in effect, a short stopped dado) into a surface in which the workpiece can be set so that some of it projects, it can then be planed. In the old days this sort of thing would often be chiselled directly into the top of the bench, but again you can throw together a quick bench hook for this purpose instead so that you haven't created a permanent divot in the top of your workbench :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T08:57:20.907" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4509" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4512" CreationDate="2016-08-11T16:22:12.310" Score="4" ViewCount="3486" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to be building a bed frame for my daughter and would like to paint it. I want the finish to be durable (no chipping, and be able take some abuse from toys being hit against it), so am wondering what the best procedure is. I saw this &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3791/painting-a-built-in-bookcase&quot;&gt;similar question&lt;/a&gt; but that didn't indicate if the built-ins would need to hold up to abuse from children.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bed will probably be plywood and pine or poplar. My thought was to prime it, then put two or three (as needed for proper color coverage) coats of paint (most likely Sherwin Williams). Does it need more coats of paint, any polycrylic or similar sealant, sanding between? Would glossy be preferable to satin paint? Anything else I'm missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T15:30:36.990" Title="Painting a kid's bed frame" Tags="|finishing|furniture|paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2211" CreationDate="2016-08-11T19:13:21.453" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This is a short quote from a &lt;a href=&quot;https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/10401/how-do-you-sharpen-a-knife/83830#83830&quot;&gt;DIY post&lt;/a&gt; of mine that apparently most people thought was too long to read through:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To abstract the important points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep the sharpening angle constant. I recommend a one to three foot &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IAL4w.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;common clamp&lt;/a&gt;, or a clamp-style knife guide.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start at roughest and go up 70% of current grit when current finish is uniform around the blade edge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go slow with no lubricant, faster with common lubricant; fastest with water-cooled diamond belts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is highly recommended to finish with some kind of cold, non-toxic polish to ensure microscopic metal dust does not rub off into food.  I suggest Flitz.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest you try Flitz metal/plastic polish at least once, but if normal oil/water is used then here is a list of choices that are recommended by specialists and pros beside myself in order of kitchen-safeness and effectiveness:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Simple Green (professionals use this)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mineral oil (cheap at drug store) * I like the idea of mineral spirits posted by Graphus&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crystalube (branded silicone-base lubricant for abrasives)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water with very light detergent (pre-soak stone if it's a true water stone)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diesel or kerosene&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Amsoil (purely synthetic) 0W-30 (very thin) motor lubricant.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not use any vegetable oils, because they will gradually gum your sharpener.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always clean the knives thoroughly before using them on or around food!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2569" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:22:17.110" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T06:55:32.340" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4506" CreationDate="2016-08-12T00:36:46.250" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are known as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gridbeam.com/woodproducts.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Gridbeam&quot;&gt;Gridbeam&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are made from reclaimed wood and they also make an aluminium variety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;We hand manufacture wood Gridbeam™ from 100% recycled douglas fir in&#xA;  Northern California. Our location gives us access to the highest&#xA;  quality recycled wood from nearby NorthCal Lumber, the largest wood&#xA;  recycler in the United States. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Our beautiful, straight grained, old growth douglas fir has the&#xA;  highest strength to weight ratio of any structural wood and does not&#xA;  dent or crush like softer woods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sS6U0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sS6U0.png&quot; alt=&quot;Douglas fir&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zleFh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zleFh.png&quot; alt=&quot;Aluminium&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="834" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2019-05-14T22:13:17.353" LastActivityDate="2019-05-14T22:13:17.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4509" CreationDate="2016-08-12T15:30:36.990" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No chipping at all is an unrealistic expectation, but obviously there are paints that are harder-wearing than others. In general if you can find a paint that specifically plugs its durability it will include an ingredient or additive that improves scratch-resistance and usually resistance to chipping as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The bed will probably be plywood and pine or poplar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps surprisingly the wood underneath the paint plays a part in how well the topcoat holds up if it's subject to knocks and scrapes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In brief, the softer the wood is the more easily it can be dented and dents along edges and at corners are places where paint can crack and start to flake or peel off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So given a choice between modern 'pine' (which can be a number of commercially grown softwoods, but all tend to be quite soft) and poplar I would suggest you go with poplar if the budget allows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My thought was to prime it, then put two or three (as needed for proper color coverage) coats of paint (most likely Sherwin Williams). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Priming is a good idea on general principle but I must add that wood is one material where priming is by no means a must-do, because paints in general bond &lt;em&gt;extremely&lt;/em&gt; well to clean wood.... just &lt;em&gt;try&lt;/em&gt; to get it off when you've made a mistake and you can see how well!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does it need more coats of paint&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two or three coats is almost always enough on interior pieces, but for high-traffic areas four might be worth the effort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would resist the urge to add more coats because weirdly past a certain point applying more coats doesn't incrementally add to the durability. For paints on woodwork once you pass about five coats the paintwork can end up &lt;em&gt;less&lt;/em&gt; durable, not more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;any polycrylic or similar sealant, sanding between? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can apply a clear coating over paint but whether it's worth it depends on the paint really. Over certain paints varnish is a must-do if you need a wear-resistant finish, but interior trim paints and that sort of thing are specifically formulated to be a topcoat or final finish and have durability built in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So as a rule you shouldn't need to use a varnish or other clear coating over paint if you pick the right type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would glossy be preferable to satin paint? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably makes no significant difference. It's said that glossy paints are most durable but the difference between full gloss and satin/semi-gloss is likely to be minimal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Anything else I'm missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All surfaces to be painted should be equally 'clean'. This isn't just about removing finger grease from handling, wood itself exudes stuff over time that can hinder the adhesion of paints (just as it does with glue).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So try to have all surfaces freshly sanded before painting. Just a light pass with fine-ish paper (280-320 grit) following the grain should be sufficient if there's no visible grubbiness. Obviously this is a lot of sanding so you can concentrate your effort on areas that will see wear, on the backs of panels etc. you can probably safely skip this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go with primer your process might be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sand all important surfaces lightly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wipe off dust.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply primer and let it dry thoroughly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply paint as per directions (see point below though). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait for the paint to dry/cure thoroughly before putting it into service. For waterbased paints I'd wait at least a couple of days, for oil-based paints I'd give it a week if you can.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it can help to achieve a good finish if you slightly thin the paint, for the first coat or two at least (adding 5-15% of the appropriate solvent). It's usually wise not to exceed that level of dilution, especially for paints thinned with water, except for a first 'wash coat' or primer coat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you choose not to prime it might go something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sand all important surfaces lightly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wipe off dust.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thin your paint approximately 30-50% &lt;em&gt;for the first coat only&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply finish coats of paint just as above.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait for the paint to dry/cure as per the above.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T15:30:36.990" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4513" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4517" CreationDate="2016-08-14T00:40:40.743" Score="4" ViewCount="338" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make about 200 bracelets using wooden &quot;beads&quot; which I will cut from 9mm x 9mm x 2400mm square stock. I have 15 of these totalling 36 meters in length. Once I have profiled the stock, how can I cut it easiest? I cannot use a bandsaw or circular saw, the only power saw I have available is a scroll saw, I have access to hand saws, however. I need to make 5000 3mm slices, preferably within a few hours. I am unsure on the wood, however its very cheap so I assume pine, as the stock is cut from a larger board. What would be the best method? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2577" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T17:22:28.300" Title="Easiest way to make 5000 cuts'?" Tags="|hand-tools|tools|cutting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4513" CreationDate="2016-08-14T02:18:26.150" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The important thing is to set up a jig or fixture so you can quickly and easily make repeat cuts.  You could rig up a fence/guide and sled for your scroll saw and use a very fine blade, but for such small cuts I would make a miter box with a stop block set for the proper length, then gang up a few at a time and cut with a 22 or so TPI hand saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because you're working with very small pieces, you could use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=hobby%20miter%20box&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;small miter box&lt;/a&gt; like the ones used in model making.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2016-08-14T17:22:28.300" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T17:22:28.300" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4515" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4518" CreationDate="2016-08-14T03:42:24.350" Score="2" ViewCount="625" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw a special tool for making wave surface which looks very useful, it looks like this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2JsV5.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2JsV5.png&quot; alt=&quot;Router table with bit&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will do you a wave surface!&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9sByu.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9sByu.png&quot; alt=&quot;Finished wood cut with bit&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone tell me what the tool is called, that is set on the workbench?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image is from &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/VK_ZozyqDYQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/VK_ZozyqDYQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2578" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-08-14T14:10:53.103" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T21:41:01.813" Title="What is this tool called for making wave surface?" Tags="|power-tools|router|router-bit|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4515" CreationDate="2016-08-14T05:10:11.443" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The picture shows a router bit, and a router table supporting a router to drive that bit. A cheaper table can be built, but you're probably looking at several hundred dollars of tooling there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T05:10:11.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4513" CreationDate="2016-08-14T07:48:54.447" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I need to make 5000 3mm slices, preferably within a few hours. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck with that! If we assume &quot;a few hours&quot; is three hours that's one cut every 21 seconds with no breaks or pauses. If you decide to go with hand-cutting these ganging the strips up as recommended in rob's Answer is the only way you're likely to be able to do this in the timeframe you've set yourself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although I realise you might have no choice in the matter, personally, this is the type of thing I would strongly resist doing to a very tight schedule but instead approached in a piecemeal manner, plodding along at a comfortable pace over a couple of days until you're done. It's both stressful and mind-numbingly boring to power through it in the minimum time possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sawn v. milled&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Not sure if you'd thought about the &lt;em&gt;quality&lt;/em&gt; of the sawn surface. You mention you're profiling the stock, since you can't or won't want to sand the sawn surfaces you need to be able to use them straight from the saw and not every saw is capable of achieving a cut that smooth. So you might need to buy a saw, or a blade for the scroll saw, specifically for this job. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;More work&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Sorry, but your work isn't done once you've finished sawing. You don't specify the wood you're using but regardless of the species you're going to get &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; splintering on the exit face no matter how fine the saw used, so to be realistic you need to factor in not a little extra time for clean-up sanding, unless you can rig up some kind of tumbler to clean up the blocks in large batches or all at once. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that tumbling will slightly round all corners and edges. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T07:48:54.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4515" CreationDate="2016-08-14T08:10:21.400" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The narration of the YouTube video you linked to specifies that it's a router he's using. At 1:32 he says &quot;then with a router bit like this one I route the zigzag shape on two faces&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bit is called a V-joint bit. They're not all shaped exactly like the one in the video. Here's a link to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.freudtools.com/products/product/99-038&quot;&gt;the Freud version&lt;/a&gt; and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amanatool.com/products/router-bits/jointing-router-bits/v-joint-router-bits/45790-carbide-tipped-v-joint-80-deg-x-1-3-8-dia-x-1-37-64-x-1-2-inch-shank.html&quot;&gt;Amana Tool&lt;/a&gt; version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bit alone is likely to cost cost upwards of $60 depending on the retailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T08:10:21.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4519" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-14T21:28:26.943" Score="3" ViewCount="4986" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm preparing to finish new red oak shelves I've built in my kitchen. I'm planning to apply a color stain and I'd like it to have a nice, even finish.  I'm going for a more uniform appearance, with grain showing of course, but I'd like to de-emphasize the grain as well as the old / new growth.  Does anyone have any process suggestions? The more I read about it, the more I'm frustrated by the options, and I'm thinking about things like sealer, washcoating, grain filler, etc.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can make recommendations (types of products, not brands) I'd appreciate it too. I've read good things about oil/varnish blend and about wiping varnish. Any thoughts about the difference, or recommendations on what types of products I can use to even out the finish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course I'll make multiple samples of all the potential processes, so if there are multiple processes and products to try I'm all ears! Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2580" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2016-08-14T21:45:50.760" LastActivityDate="2021-07-07T11:26:28.250" Title="How to de-emphasize grain in red oak shelves" Tags="|finishing|wood|staining|end-grain|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4515" CreationDate="2016-08-14T21:41:01.813" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keshlam and Graphus have already helpfully identified the overall setup (router table) and the exact type of bit used (V-joint), but for additional clarity, here is an annotated version of your original picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SdOmH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SdOmH.png&quot; alt=&quot;annotated router table with bit&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T21:41:01.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4519" CreationDate="2016-08-14T22:32:56.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Applying a sealer before staining will discourage stain from soaking into open grain more than closed grain. Using a tinted varnish rather than a true stain will also help achieve an even wash of color across the surface if that's what you are going for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reminder: Always test on scrap pieces of the same wood(s) before finishing your actual project, to make sure you know how it will behave. It's a lot safer to make mistakes on a piece people won't see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2021-07-07T11:26:28.250" LastActivityDate="2021-07-07T11:26:28.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4519" CreationDate="2016-08-15T07:10:35.193" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more I read about it, the more I'm frustrated by the options, and I'm thinking about things like sealer, washcoating, grain filler, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is part of the problem with finishing when you're starting out, all the many options. It's the same starting out in most areas, where you have to learn about lots of things knowing that eventually you'll use just a handful of them 95% of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a great many options available and numerous combinations possible on top of that but I know a couple of woodworkers online who use wiping varnish for virtually all their pieces. And I've read on one furniture maker's blog that he uses nothing but linseed oil on his work, saying that if it was good enough as a finish for hundreds of years it's good enough now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going for a more uniform appearance, with grain showing of course, but I'd like to de-emphasize the grain&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to truly hide the grain on oak and produce the most even colour possible then a full grain fill is the way to go but this is a lot of extra work. You can go a lot of the way there just with the right colouring product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the classic case for picking your colouring product with care as what is sold as &amp;quot;stain&amp;quot; is a number of very different things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Types of &amp;quot;stain&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;There are two main classes of stain, pigment stains and dye stains, and they work completely differently. A pigment stain has actual pigment particles (large) suspended in it while a true stain is coloured by dye (very tiny). With pigment stains those particles naturally collect in recesses, actually increasing the contrast and making the grain stand out. Dye stains on the other hand colour the wood fairly evenly so have a natural tendency to reduce the contrast between the recessed grain and the surrounding wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also something called &amp;quot;gel stain&amp;quot; which isn't strictly a stain at all. It is coloured varnish that has been artificially thickened slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's definitely dye stain you want to use here. Get a dye stain or two in likely colours and experiment with them until you're confident in how to apply the product evenly. For your final finish I would recommend wiping on varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read good things about oil/varnish blend and about wiping varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are both fine in their respective ways and for appropriate applications. They both have the same basic advantage, that of being wipe on finishes but wiping varnish is a better finish in a few key respects, being more flexible in how it can be applied and providing better waterproofing and scratch-resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Make your own&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;In case you haven't come across this before wiping varnish is just normal varnish thinned slightly. As with &amp;quot;wood conditioner&amp;quot; you pay too much for the commercial variety because they're charging you through the nose for mineral spirits, which is cheap. Better to make your own since it's much cheaper and you can have full control over the level of dilution to suit your own preferences and the weather conditions (the same dilution won't equally suit finishing during summer months and on the coldest days of winter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All you need to do is take a clean jar and pour in some (gloss) varnish, then add 1/3 or more spirits, shake the jar and you're good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil/varnish blends can be made in exactly the same way, usually beginning with a simple 1:1:1 mixture of BLO, varnish and spirits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that shaking a finish is usually discouraged just prior to use because it introduces bubbles but they're irrelevant in a wipe-on finish because the application process will naturally pop any bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course I'll make multiple samples of all the potential processes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's good. Wood varies a surprising amount sometimes and not least in how it takes finish. So it's vital to do test boards to assess how any finishing regimen will work on &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2021-07-06T18:42:52.543" LastActivityDate="2021-07-06T18:42:52.543" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4523" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4524" CreationDate="2016-08-15T14:54:53.653" Score="5" ViewCount="1219" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to be building a bed for my daughter and my design calls for a larger piece of wood for the legs. I could use a 2x3 or 2x4, but am wondering if I could create the larger piece by gluing two or more smaller boards together as that would be cheaper (and easier to find at the big-box stores). The hiccup comes from the fact that I need to attach a piece of plywood to the legs (likely using pocket screws). I know glue joints are strong (stronger than the wood they are attaching in many cases), but is it a bad idea to screw into the glue joint like that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the sketch, the two boards making up the leg would be face glued, with the faces being parallel to the plywood panel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dHJa1.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dHJa1.png&quot; alt=&quot;Footboard sketch&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T08:11:44.670" Title="Attach fastener into glue joint of two face-glued boards" Tags="|furniture|glue|screws|laminating|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4523" CreationDate="2016-08-15T17:17:03.107" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the two boards are fully glued, they will act as a single unit and will not affect the strength of the screw connection, so go ahead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, a glued (mortise &amp;amp; tenon) connection between the posts and plywood beam will perform better than a pocket screw connection.  In a glued connection, the stresses created whenever the bed frame is moved will be transferred between the pieces evenly instead of in concentrated screw locations. Eventually the forces will loosen the connection in a screwed joint and a gap may appear between the plywood and posts unless a mortise/tenon fitting is used.  Once you create such a joint to hide any movement gaps, you might as well glue it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T17:17:03.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4523" CreationDate="2016-08-16T06:38:00.347" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I could use a 2x3 or 2x4, but am wondering if I could create the larger piece by gluing two or more smaller boards together as that would be cheaper &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a good and economical way of making up larger sections on a budget. While it may not look as nice as a single piece it'll be at least as strong if you do it right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not absolutely vital but good general practice to carefully select the boards you're glueing together, or, carefully select how they go together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ideal would be to use two pieces that are quarter-sawn or close, but it's very rare you'll find pieces with this grain orientation at a big-box store. Since you're very likely to be buying plain-sawn boards alternate the grain (I suggest glueing bark side to bark side) to compensate or any tendency of the boards to cup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I know glue joints are strong (stronger than the wood they are attaching in many cases), but is it a bad idea to screw into the glue joint like that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure that any woodworking book that might mention it will say not to screw directly into a glue joint if you can avoid it. While I take pains to make sure my glue joints are as strong as possible screwing into the joint would be something I would try to avoid doing myself too, although like everyone I've had to do it once or twice. The thing I would take definite steps to avoid would be to align multiple screws along a glue line which is really what you're asking about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you're using pocket screws, which by definition &lt;em&gt;go into the wood at a shallow angle&lt;/em&gt;, so in reality you're not going to be screwing directly into the glue line. Even if the pilot hole initially lines up with it perfectly it will immediately head off into solid wood so nothing at all to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-08-17T08:11:44.670" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T08:11:44.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4526" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-17T09:41:18.977" Score="3" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;[previously asked in Home Improvement, perhaps better here?]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Bosch PSS230 orbital sander (1990's vintage I think) which has served me very well until recently when it made a nasty noise and some whitish-grey powdery lumps dropped out of the bottom. Having had a look at it it looks like the lumps were the remnants of some sort of cement/rubber 'linkage' between the spindle and the eccentric cam outer bit, from the gap indicated by the red arrow marked on the image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ESPKV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ESPKV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just wondering if anyone here has had a similar problem, and whether there is a suitable material (silicone, acrylic...) with which I can rebuild it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2583" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2016-12-31T06:46:08.143" LastActivityDate="2016-12-31T06:46:08.143" Title="Is my orbital sander fixable?" Tags="|sanding|tool-maintenance|tool-repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4527" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-17T15:52:09.380" Score="1" ViewCount="942" Body="&lt;p&gt;An &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/4525/2524&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt; to a previous question of mine suggested gluing two boards bark-side to bark-side in order to compensate for possible cupping. I'll likely be buying the boards at a big-box store (Lowes) and am wondering if the boards are really suitable for gluing as purchased? Are the edges flat and true and square enough, or should I do some cutting beforehand? I have a table saw and router (with table), and have seen some interesting jigs on youtube to square up faces and such, but would prefer to avoid the extra work if I can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T06:14:49.890" Title="Gluing boards from big-box stores" Tags="|wood-selection|glue|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4527" CreationDate="2016-08-17T17:00:48.640" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nothing straight from the store will ever be as flat as you can make it, just because wood is always moving a bit. However, S4S boards will have been jointed/planed flat before they reached the store, so at one time they were dead flat and might still be flat enough for laminating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2016-08-18T03:26:53.823" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T03:26:53.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4527" CreationDate="2016-08-17T19:12:22.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As with many answers, it depends. You should check all the boards with an accurate straight edge. You might be in luck and they are still flat enough to glue, in which case go for it. Or they might have bowed, cupped or warped in which cases you will need to joint/plane them to get them flat enough to join.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And of course, sorting through the wood at the big box store is always worth your time to ensure you get the best lumber you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to note however is that some of the SPF lumber you get at the big box stores will have the edges rounded ever so slightly. If this is the case, and you glue them together, the resulting surface will not be perfectly flat.  You can rip 1/8-1/4&quot; off each side to get rid of the round-over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T19:12:22.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="67" CreationDate="2016-08-17T19:48:19.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;CRC food grade Silicone Lubricant is magic on any metal, Never leaves a mark and does not go away unless you want it to, They use this stuff in museums when long term storage with protection is of the utmost importance, Oil just dissipates eventually, I moved to this Lubricant and will never go back to oil for protection, I use it on knives, Swords, door locks, antique straight razors ect ect ect, Its says food grade but I wouldn't eat it, unless of course you want to live forever!!...:)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2584" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T19:48:19.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4531" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-17T23:08:46.467" Score="2" ViewCount="717" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there anything in Tap Magic cutting fluid that suggests that I should avoid using it on my Arkansas sharpening stone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2585" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T06:51:59.930" Title="Tap magic cutting fluid" Tags="|sharpening|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4527" CreationDate="2016-08-18T06:14:49.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;and am wondering if the boards are really suitable for gluing as purchased?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different woodworkers would answer this yes and no. Note that this is if they were looking at &lt;em&gt;the exact same boards&lt;/em&gt; :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of individual standards for 'good enough' you should prep the wood prior to glueing it up because ideally this should be done using &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2775/should-i-orient-the-cupped-sides-toward-each-other-when-laminating-boards/2781#2781&quot;&gt;freshly worked wood&lt;/a&gt;. See also, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4151/what-do-i-need-to-do-to-prepare-wood-for-gluing/4159#4159&quot;&gt;What do I need to do to prepare wood for gluing?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are the edges flat and true and square enough, or should I do some cutting beforehand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the way wood like this is machined, with rounded edges, you will have to rip off some wood to end up with square sections when you're done. This can be done ahead of time or after the glue-up as you prefer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have a table saw and router (with table), and have seen some interesting jigs on youtube to square up faces and such, but would prefer to avoid the extra work if I can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Squaring the faces of boards is a job for some kind of plane or a wide-belt sander, not a table saw or router.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, in short sections it's very likely the wood will be flat enough for you to work with since you're unlikely to buy any pieces with a bad warp or cup to begin with&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would just make sure they're reasonably flat (flat enough that they'll come together using just hand pressure, or light clamp pressure), lightly sand the glue faces to clean the wood, then glue and clamp. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T06:14:49.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4531" CreationDate="2016-08-18T06:51:59.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see that Tap Magic make more than one product but I'll answer generically. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of the specific ingredients given what Tap Magic is for I doubt it contains anything that could harm Arkansas stones given they are very tough to begin with. So I'd say it's safe enough to try out at least, but I wouldn't recommend it in the long term especially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it does work well as a honing fluid it would join a laundry list of liquids that someone somewhere has been happy to hone with, but you might want to use &lt;em&gt;something that's more skin-friendly&lt;/em&gt;. At least one of the Tap Magic fluids is classed by the maker as a skin irritant so I would say on that front alone you should look at an alternative, unless you're routinely in the habit of honing with gloves on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since a number of cheap and completely safe liquids can be used as honing fluid (including soapy water, mineral oil/liquid paraffin and baby oil) I'd say there's a strong argument not to use Tap Magic for this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T06:51:59.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4535" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-18T08:02:24.987" Score="3" ViewCount="587" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if this is even repairable, got the bedframe second hand, already missing the chunk of wood on the right and the screws in it. I think the crack is getting worse though and I'm not sure how much longer its going to hold up. The metal rods showing has me concerned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pictures in gallery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://picsurge.com/fWii8H&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://picsurge.com/fWii8H&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me know if you think I can fix this, and if so, how you would suggest I tackle it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2587" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2017-01-25T07:04:35.030" LastActivityDate="2017-01-25T07:04:35.030" Title="Repair wooden footboard rail mount?" Tags="|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2017-01-25T07:04:47.680" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4526" CreationDate="2016-08-18T18:12:00.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to completely redo my answer for I have a much better Idea (Had to do some cleaning with belt sander). But I still am going to say that it is wood dust and does need to be taken care of. But (of course, not sure how far you could go) if you can remove a side or the bottom and take a look inside that may help out with cleaning. If there was a 'rubber/ceramic' thing then dust can travel up there. Can reduce performance, increase wear/tear (depending on what it is on...), and increase heat buildup. If there is dust on the inside clean it out but prefer not to get it wet for that may do wonders. Another thing to look at is the carbon brush on the sides (of any). They do where over time and is very important to replace these. Not doing so will be VERY bad (at least worn down). Last thing to think of is with the sealing. I would not use a silicone, for I can see that hardening on the moving part. Which will either give loose and work or hang on but separate from the whole bottom. What I was thinking was using foam. Like for doors that has some stick on one side (can not think of the name). If done right that should work better I hope. Otherwise ask some questions, my knowledge on some of this has improved but like I said, no expert of any. Note: If you do take it apart that is your choice. I do not want to be blamed for anything, thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="2073" LastEditDate="2016-11-11T03:17:27.737" LastActivityDate="2016-11-11T03:17:27.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4537" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-18T19:13:10.810" Score="5" ViewCount="2320" Body="&lt;p&gt;About 2 months ago my grandparents cut down 80% of an old cherry tree (topped it). There were some big branches/thin trunks that ended up in their massive compost piles (my grandad like his compost piles...)&#xA;I might also end up with a bit of pear wood as well depending on if they still want to top their pear trees or not (and the branch sizes)- would there be a huge difference in how I should treat the wood between cherry/pear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about grabbing some of the thicker branches (~4&quot;-6&quot; diameter) and attempting to work them into an end grain cutting board/butcher block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read about branches having internal stresses and twisting/warping. Is this a problem if they are cut into small cubes as appropriate for an end grain cutting board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the pieces will be small pre-glue, do I still need to let the wood cure for ~1yr? (I've read that green wood should be cured?) If so, should I leave it in long square sticks to cure, should I just leave it sitting in the compost pile for a year or should I cut it to cubes and then leave it to cure for a while?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2554" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T18:32:57.750" Title="Using thick branches to make an end-grain cutting board?" Tags="|green-wood|end-grain|making-lumber|cutting-board|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4537" CreationDate="2016-08-19T00:27:24.130" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interesting idea; it never occurred to me. I have a few narrow branches that I thought weren't going to be usable for much more than veneer, but using your approach if I can get a few 1&quot;x1&quot; cross-section sticks out of them I might be able to reassemble them into something more useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you want to let the wood dry --and mostly settle into its final shape -- before gluing it back together. Rule of thumb for unforced drying in a workshop environment is a year per inch of thickness if the wood; you can get a more precise measurement with a lignometer (wood moisture meter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood may check (split) as it dries; the trick to limiting that is to seal the end grain (varnish will work; answered better elsewhere) so the ends lose moisture at the same rate as the rest of the board/stick. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usual practice for woodworking other is to cut the green wood down to something a bit larger than you expect to eventually need, sticker it (stack it with lots of airflow) and let it dry (faster for a bunch of 1&quot; boards than for a 12&quot; hunk of trunk), then straighten the resulting pieces if they moved (jointing and planing and trimming -- which is why you want to start somewhat oversize) before cutting down to the sizes your project actually needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Wood turning is the main exception; turners sometimes work with green wood and let the warping than can occur as it dries out be part of the process.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2016-08-19T18:32:57.750" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T18:32:57.750" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2852" CreationDate="2016-08-19T01:28:22.200" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my personal experience....yesterday...DO NOT get the material too hot. There is the obvious flammability of oil based urethanes, but if you place the work in the direct sun to try to dry it, you will, especially on a hot August day, find that the urethane bubbles. I layered up so much to cover this mess that it's gonna take a month to dry and cure. I'll probably scrape it all off, re-sand and refinish. I wanted a thick coat and considered using Envirotex Lite. I read about it on a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.barplan.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;home bar design&lt;/a&gt; site. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With Envirotex you can sweep it with a propane torch to quickly remove bubbles. Don't EVER try the torch method with ANY oil based stain, varnish or urethane products. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2595" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T01:28:22.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4537" CreationDate="2016-08-19T08:04:12.233" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've read about branches having internal stresses and twisting/warping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main reason not to use wood from branches normally is that it's full of &lt;em&gt;reaction wood&lt;/em&gt;, wood that has internal stress from its original orientation of the branch where it was under stress, supporting the weight of the branch and its foliage. When the branch is sawn into planks the release of this stress can lead to very bad warping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; this is not to say you shouldn't try to use branch wood. There is much fine wood wasted because it was originally in a branch, but you'll never be sure how much it might warp. However confine yourself to smaller pieces and work in stages to your final dimensions and often you'll have few problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;would there be a huge difference in how I should treat the wood between cherry/pear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No I don't believe so. I think you can treat most hardwoods and fruitwoods equally when it comes to drying out pieces like this and get approximately the same results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is this a problem if they are cut into small cubes as appropriate for an end grain cutting board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1nW7n.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1nW7n.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Branch end-grain wood uses&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But obviously make sure the wood is fully dry (or &lt;em&gt;seasoned&lt;/em&gt;) before you use it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Since the pieces will be small pre-glue, do I still need to let the wood cure for ~1yr? (I've read that green wood should be cured?) If so, should I leave it in long square sticks to cure, should I just leave it sitting in the compost pile for a year or should I cut it to cubes and then leave it to cure for a while?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definitely don't leave it in a compost pile! Leave the pieces as-is (I think this is referred to as &quot;in stick&quot;) to dry before dimensioning and glueing. They can be dried outdoors (off the ground and under cover) or in an airy space indoors (e.g. a well-ventilated garage or covered porch).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for how long to wait, there is a rough rule of thumb about drying green wood given out a lot online, saying to allow one year per inch of thickness. While this is for hardwoods specifically (a detail often left out when the phrase is repeated) and obviously will vary somewhat even among hardwood species it is a good conservative timescale to have in your head for any drying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further to this I would say myself, &lt;em&gt;wait as long as possible&lt;/em&gt;. It's almost never a bad thing to wait longer when drying wood compared to doing the opposite — in normal circumstances wood can't be over-dried, but it can most definitely be under-dried!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For future reference if you get a chance to acquire wood like this, you want to cut it up into the pieces you'll be drying and immediately &lt;strong&gt;coat the end grain&lt;/strong&gt; with something to protect from cracking. Don't be complacent and wait until the following day or later in the week, you can start to get cracks forming in just that little time. The goal is to prevent the formation of cracks entirely, not halt them spreading. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best thing to use for sealing end grain for the DIYer is &lt;strong&gt;melted wax&lt;/strong&gt;, which should be applied liberally. Any solid wax will do, from canning wax to virgin beeswax to random bits of old candles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Don't&lt;/em&gt; rely on &quot;latex&quot; paint for this. Despite how frequently it's recommended online for this purpose it's a bad choice as it's a terrible water barrier. The only reason to use this type of paint would be if you literally had nothing else on hand that would do the job better. In the absence of wax things that would work better than &quot;latex&quot; paint include enamel paint and varnish, both of which have good water-resistance. But they must be applied very thickly for best results so multiple coats may be required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T08:04:12.233" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2852" CreationDate="2016-08-19T15:04:02.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some other options to try:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Thin the varnish with an appropriate solvent.  Oil-based varnishes usually call for Mineral Spirits whereas water-borne/based finished take water.  Not only will this make applying it easier, it will dry a lot faster. The downside is that it requires more coats to build, but those coats can usually be applied with less time between coats.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Add a drying agent such as Japanese drier or Cobalt Drier.  These are already present in most varnishes but adding a very small amount to your mix can help speed things up.  You can find these at more home improvement or paint stores.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T15:04:02.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="782" CreationDate="2016-08-19T18:02:14.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plywood essentially doesn't move with humidity changes. Solid edge banding may, but the motion would be across the grain, so if the grain runs along the edge  (as is usual) the change is a small percentage of a small distance and doesn't produce enough force to bother the glue. So, yes, this is a good and common technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are making shelves or similar, note that the edge banding doesn't &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; to be flush with the plywood. Letting it extend down a bit is a simple way to give more &quot;visual weight&quot; to thin material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T18:02:14.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4544" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-20T18:46:49.713" Score="2" ViewCount="571" Body="&lt;p&gt;not directly wood but directly after the fact- my desk is made from reclaimed wood, and is a bit softer than my prior one so if I were to write on it, the surface would quickly mar. I really want to keep the beauty of the finish intact. My first thought was glass, but two issues with glass:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My desk is L shaped, so the glass (and most covers I've seen) would be in two pieces, with a seam exactly where I am trying to write.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glass has the opposite problem of being too hard in many cases, making writing with a pen difficult.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mouse use is limited&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And honestly I can either live with or work around each of these, but I'd prefer not to if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question then is: are there any alternative desktop surfaces/coverings. Something:&#xA;1. that could be cut/made to fit&#xA;2. proper not-to-hard-nor-too-soft-ness for writing&#xA;3. functional mousing surface&#xA;4. of course the base protecting&#xA;5. And aesthetics&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone knows of anything, I'd be ingratiated. Closest I've seen is a DIY (I'm OK to purchase or build a solution) project using clear vinyl sheets adhered to a graphic backing ( posters, etc..)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2016-08-22T06:37:14.570" Title="Alternative desk top to glass for reclaimed (softer) wood" Tags="|surface-preparation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4544" CreationDate="2016-08-21T08:26:29.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As this is a woodworking site with wood being our primary focus I think I should say that when you know the requirements of a desk (or any other project) ahead of time they should really be factored in from the start with the choice of material for the top. That's the right way to approach a build, rather than playing catch-up after the fact to get the thing to meet the usage requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My question then is: are there any alternative desktop surfaces/coverings. Something: 1. that could be cut/made to fit 2. proper not-to-hard-nor-too-soft-ness for writing 3. functional mousing surface 4. of course the base protecting 5. And aesthetics&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you could in theory at least use a hard sheet plastic like acrylic or polycarbonate (including making a seamless joint if you're careful) the first thing I thought of that fulfilled all your requirements was &lt;strong&gt;solid-surface material&lt;/strong&gt;, e.g. Corian. These are a composite material made from something like powdered marble and a resin binder and they are hard, opaque and durable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you'd probably want to think carefully about covering the desktop with anything that costs more than the rest of the desk put together O_O &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Working more directly with what you have you might be able to do something with clear coatings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most obvious product in this area is a &lt;strong&gt;pour-on finish&lt;/strong&gt; which goes on thick and sets hard and resilient. This wouldn't be an ideal solution for any number of reasons (possibly including cost again) but it might do exactly what you want and turn a softer-than-you'd like surface into a durable and long-lived one that can't be dented by writing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try thickly varnishing it with &lt;strong&gt;polyurethane&lt;/strong&gt; (multiple coats building up to a thick film, not one or two very thick coats). Even on soft softwoods this can be enough to reinforce the surface and make it strong enough, while not properly hard or resilient, to withstand the knocks and scrapes of daily use. You probably have some offcuts you can test this option out on and if it does enough I can't imagine it not being the cheapest of the possibilities presented here, but it would be slow to do and you'd want to wait at least a week after the last coat for the varnish to cure hard enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; I should have thought of this myself but a friend of mine suggested something that would be effective here if, as with the solid-surface material, you don't mind that the wood is obscured and that is &lt;strong&gt;tempered hardboard&lt;/strong&gt;. Cutting and installing it would be very quick to do and it's an inexpensive option at under $10 for an 8x10 sheet, possibly working out cheaper than varnishing and it's undoubtedly much more robust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-08-22T06:37:14.570" LastActivityDate="2016-08-22T06:37:14.570" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4546" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-21T21:01:44.447" Score="4" ViewCount="208" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it best to use oil based polyurethane on an oil based stain for a better finish? Or is a water based version ok to use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2601" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-08-23T05:52:07.543" LastActivityDate="2016-10-22T07:54:07.913" Title="Finish for an exterior front door" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4546" CreationDate="2016-08-21T23:28:29.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend using oil based polyurethane. I have been told and I have read stuff on this and here is the basic answer. Water based polyurethane will peel off over time. The oil based will not. So in the run oil based will indeed give you a better finish than water based, because it may peel one day. I want to add that once you add 3-4 coats of polyurethane and given time for each coat to dry. And then you are more than likely going to have a rough texture to the polyurethane. Just take some 100 grit sandpaper (or of you choice) and lightly sand it smooth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T23:28:29.207" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4546" CreationDate="2016-08-22T06:58:57.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is slightly subjective but in general it would be better to use oil-based varnish over an oil stain. But the exact product you would be using is of vital importance, since &quot;oil-based poly&quot; and &quot;waterbased poly&quot; are not one uniform product across the market. There are most definitely better and less-good products in both categories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an exterior application like this a different type of oil-based varnish, spar varnish, might be the superior choice for your topcoat if the door gets a lot of direct weather exposure. Spar varnishes are made to have increased weather resistance, in part because of their great flexibility, but this comes at the cost of being very yellow so you have to be able to put up with adding a significant yellow colouring to the door. &lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; if you go with a spar varnish buying it from a supplier of marine finishes will help ensure you get a quality product. Apparently spar varnishes from the home centre can be much less good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your door is fairly well covered however any consumer-level varnish should provide adequate protection, after all this is what they're made for. And while they are all somewhat yellowish they won't add a noticeable yellowness to the stained colour of the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case it needs to be said, if you do decide to use a waterbased finish you &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; ensure the oil stain is well dried before application, which may mean having to wait a few days or longer depending on some variables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-08-22T06:58:57.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2211" CreationDate="2016-08-22T11:07:17.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can also use a drop or two of &lt;strong&gt;dishwashing liquid&lt;/strong&gt; (soap), directly onto the honing stone. Cleaning is with water and more dishwashing liquid when finished to remove the waste material of the honing process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2605" LastActivityDate="2016-08-22T11:07:17.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4551" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-22T21:11:25.093" Score="3" ViewCount="1870" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some saber saws specify their maximum cutting length -thickness of the block to cut- for wood (or metal, or tubes...). Most of them are in between 150 and 230 mm (6 to 9&quot;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I indeed want to buy a saber saw to use it with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.es/itm/2-Hoja-Sierra-De-Sable-225-300-450mm-Corte-Ondulado-para-Tejido-Amortiguacion-/251790306927?var=&amp;amp;hash=item3a9fdf2e6f:m:mZdN-sMc3ZdPhaRhrILLVVA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these blades&lt;/a&gt;. There you can choose 300 mm and 450mm (12 and 18&quot;) blades. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need that length to cut some very high density foam and cork (the foam is also similar in hardness to cork yoga blocks). But I can't see any saber saw that reaches that length in their maximum -I'm looking for the specifications for wood as they are always the longest they support. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need a very special saber saw? Shall I keep looking for a higher maximum? Any suggestion about models or where to find it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many of them don't even specify this maximum. What does this maximum depend on? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2608" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-01-12T14:02:43.923" LastActivityDate="2023-01-31T16:20:18.113" Title="Choosing a saber saw for long blades (12&quot; and 18&quot;). What does the maximum length specified in a saw depend on?" Tags="|tool-selection|cutting|saw-blade|sabre-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4552" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-23T23:04:23.347" Score="4" ViewCount="1870" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a complete newbie to woodwork - please bear with me! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to build a free-standing fence or barrier that will sit on top of concrete similar to this picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3utB1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3utB1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fence&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fence I want to build is a bit taller - 6-8ft. How wide does the &quot;feet&quot; of the fence have to be to keep it from falling over in the wind? I'm thinking about putting support braces in the photo like the picture - do they have to be on both sides of the fence and what size and height does the brace have to be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2614" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T19:56:43.043" Title="Freestanding Fence Post Support Size" Tags="|fence|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4553" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-24T01:28:06.933" Score="1" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is very hard to get spalted maple around my area (from Wisconsin) and I want to make my own, if possible, spalted maple. I do not know how you can make your own though, because it comes from  dead trees with fungus growing on the wood or something. But I am sure there is more to it. Is it as easy as buying maple wood, then letting it sit there? Would I cover it or leave it? How long would it take? Is the wood &quot;treated&quot; with something even if it says &quot;untreated&quot;? In the end my simple question is, how can I make my own spalted maple?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T18:21:42.367" Title="How to make your own spalted maple" Tags="|wood|spalted|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-08-24T20:08:50.593" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4552" CreationDate="2016-08-24T07:29:53.037" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How wide does the &quot;feet&quot; of the fence have to be to keep it from falling over in the wind? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are too many unknown variables to be able to get a definitive answer on how long the &quot;feet&quot; need to be, but if you guestimate the dimensions of the fence in the photo and multiply up to your possible heights it would at least give you a starting point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about putting support braces in the photo like the picture - do they have to be on both sides of the fence and what size and height does the brace have to be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes you need braces, yes they need to extend outwards on both sides of the fence because wind loading can come from either side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is if you make the fence the full 8' tall and scale the supports up the feet would end up much too long to be practical. Anything much longer than those shown could be awkward to move around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an alternative you could add weight to the bottom of the fence, with concrete blocks&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. I'd suggest you not permanently attach them as that would make the fence far too difficult to move around, but instead arrange things so they can be moved separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might try a combination of both these things, with feet approximately the same as those in the photo but with weights added on top to make the design more bottom-heavy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) At the most simple you could use existing concrete building blocks but if you want to make something that fits the supports of your fence you could cast your own blocks to neatly straddle the &quot;feet&quot; using a form. This form can be a simple plywood box, well lubricated or covered in plastic. A full guide to doing this is beyond the scope of this SE but there are now many guides online to casting concrete at home. Just as a design suggestion, I think you'd want to cast in a piece of bent rebar on the top or on one or both sides to act as a handle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go ahead with casting a better system would probably be to have the posts of the fence simply sit into hollows formed in cast concrete blocks, so the fence would stand much the same as when it's set into the ground conventionally. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T07:29:53.037" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4556" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-24T15:29:05.020" Score="3" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to order a solid pine loft bed and at a minimum, the included desk needs to be finished. I'd rather just finish all of it if possible. Trouble is, I live in a rented apartment, don't have the money to hire a professional, and have never finished wood before. The product comes pre-sanded and ready to be stained and finished, so I would think that as jobs go, it is relatively easy (hopefully no sanding, definitely no stripping).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My landlord is a nice guy, but finishing wood inside my apartment seems like a terrible idea. There's a little workshop in the basement, but it is dusty and I don't think it's ventilated. There's also a large yard with a big concrete area that would work if it's not raining and if wood can be finished outdoors, which due to my complete ignorance of wood finishing, I don't know (I googled it, but the results were all either about finishing furniture that belongs outdoors).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be working on days without rain, and daytime temperatures have been in the 70s and 80s with humidity around 60%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2617" OwnerDisplayName="Zorgoth" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T01:50:59.603" Title="Can I finish a pine loft bed outdoors?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4551" CreationDate="2016-08-24T19:25:57.370" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your eBay link is to a &lt;a href=&quot;http://wilpu.com/en/products/reciprocating-saw-blades/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;WILPU RWM 225&lt;/a&gt; which their website calls a &amp;quot;reciprocating saw&amp;quot; blade. Based on their video on the 225 blade, this is for a tool that we (in the US, at least) would call a &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/corded/6519-31&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sawzall&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; (even if not made by Milwaukee) and looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51YPF%2BHR1vL._SL1500_.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51YPF%2BHR1vL._SL1500_.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51YPF%2BHR1vL.SL1500.jpg&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image courtesy of Milwaukee.com&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you click the &amp;quot;Sawzall&amp;quot; link (above), you'll see that depth of cut isn't mentioned in the specifications. This is because it's an open ended cutting tool, and the only limit to the depth of cut is the length of the blade. The Milwaukee site does indicate a 1 1/8&amp;quot; cutting &lt;em&gt;stroke&lt;/em&gt;, but that won't limit how long a blade it can push.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your purposes, just about any &amp;quot;sawzall&amp;quot; (using the brand name as a generic term for reciprocating saw), will do the job to cut through your foam and cork. As an example, I've used my 18-volt battery powered &amp;quot;sawzall&amp;quot; (manufactured by a company who painted it yellow and black) with a 12 inch pruning blade similar to this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/giir8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/giir8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.northerntool.com/images/product/400x400/442/44299_400x400.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used it to cut limbs from downed trees, and to cut down dead trees in the yard. I've also used it (with appropriate blades) for demolition work and other general purpose, non-precision cutting. Probably not the most powerful tool made, most likely has less oomph than a corded tool would, but cuts like a champ until the battery dies. The good news is that I have several batteries, so I just plug in a freshly charged one and put the dead one on the charger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most likely, the biggest issue you'll have is getting your cuts to come out accurately with a tool like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;However&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really mean a &lt;em&gt;saber saw&lt;/em&gt; (or &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1423/what-is-the-difference-between-a-sabre-saw-and-a-jig-saw&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;jig saw&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;), which looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://d2pbmlo3fglvvr.cloudfront.net/product/full/Z0s5v0jcpEx_.JPG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://d2pbmlo3fglvvr.cloudfront.net/product/full/Z0s5v0jcpEx_.JPG&quot; alt=&quot;https://www.zoro.com/makita-jigsaw-orbital-cutting-0-3000spm-jv0600k/i/G4928716/?gclid=COPuiurf2s4CFQwwaQodffkKrg&amp;amp;gclsrc=aw.ds#lightbox-Z0s5v0jcpEx_JPG&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;sup&gt;image from zoro.com&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you would need something from WILPU&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt; that is on &lt;a href=&quot;http://wilpu.com/en/products/jig-saw-blades/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; of their site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage of the jig saw is that you'll get much better control over your cut, giving you a much more accurate cut. Also, jig saw blades are usually much narrower than the narrowest &amp;quot;Sawzall&amp;quot; blade, and will make much tighter curves. The drawback, is that I've never seen a jig/saber-saw blade that was 300-450mm long. This doesn't mean they don't exist, I've just never seen one (WILPU's catalog shows their longest jigsaw blade looks like it's 155mm - less than 1/2 what you need).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;If you need the depth of cut, I'd suggest using the &quot;Sawzall&quot; blades you've linked with just about any reciprocating saw out there (caveat: you, generally, get what you pay for). I'd suggest cutting wide of your line, then sanding to bring it your final dimensions. (If you have plenty of spare material and time, you can practice cutting right to your line to learn the tool and get better control)&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Alternate recommendation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on some of the comments on your question, you could try a hot-knife. You indicated that you'd tried a couple and found that they were either too short or didn't work well. A &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=diy+hot+knive&amp;amp;ie=utf-8&amp;amp;oe=utf-8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;quick Google&lt;/a&gt; found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Hot-wire-foam-cutter/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these instructions&lt;/a&gt; (among others) at Instructables.com for a DIY hot knife foam cutter. The advantage of this is that you can make it as big as you need it. It also looks to have a variable power setting and quite a number of tips from readers on improving it, so you should be able to ramp it up to cut your foam. It's also cheap enough that if it doesn't really work you're not out that much cash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt; No specific recommendation of WILPU blades (or Milwaukee reciprocating saws or Makita jig saws). I simply went with the brand you linked to and the first images I liked when I Googled for the tools mentioned.&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2023-01-31T16:20:18.113" LastActivityDate="2023-01-31T16:20:18.113" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4558" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4559" CreationDate="2016-08-24T21:42:05.070" Score="6" ViewCount="1863" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a router with fixed and plunge bases, and a handful of bits. I have not yet used the plunge base, but I will need shallow plunged cuts for my next project. Can I use a bit I already have, or do I need to buy a new bit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/undersized-plywood-router-bit-set&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this set&lt;/a&gt; from Rockler. I am considering the smallest bit for this task.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b8I1c.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b8I1c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that you cannot plunge a bit unless it will cut across the bottom. I don't see many bits that are advertised as specifically made for plunging, although many others do appear to have a bladed surface on the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These bits don't have sharp blades all the way in, but the shape looks like they would still remove material from the center, then flatten the bottom as I move. Are these OK to plunge? Is there any risk of danger or damage in attempting a plunge with an incorrect bit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BDenJHzgXCw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; using a drill to remove the center material prior to plunging in with a &quot;standard straight bit&quot;. Clearly it works in the video, but I'm wondering as well if there are limitations or specific safety issues that I should be aware of before attempting it myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2458" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T22:15:10.247" Title="Proper bit selection for plunge router?" Tags="|router-bit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4558" CreationDate="2016-08-24T22:15:10.247" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think these bits would work exactly as you're describing. If you're plunging to a shallow depth and then moving across the work piece, the center that wasn't removed in the initial plunge gets removed by the cutters as you move the router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only problem I've had with bits that don't remove the center has happened when I was trying to make a deep-ish plunge without moving the router bit. Then the center hits the bit and prevents you from finishing the plunge cut. But these bits don't look like they'd have that problem, though it's hard to tell from the angle of the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, I'd recommend trying it out on a scrap to see whether they work. From the description of the cut you are planning, I think you'll be fine, but testing on a scrap is always the best way to know for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not aware of any bits that are designed for plunging per se, but normally when I make a plunge cut with a straight bit, the exact bit I choose depends on which surface I am more interested in having come out clean. If I want the bottom of the cut to be the cleanest part, I would use a spiral upcut bit. The flutes on these bits are cut in a continuous spiral around the bit shaft, which helps evacuate chips as they are cut. Spiral upcut bits leave a clean surface on the bottom of the cut, at the expense of having a small bit of raggedness on the top surface of the cut. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I care more about the surface being cut into more than the surface at the bottom of the cut, I will just use a regular straight bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also spiral downcut bits, which are similar to spiral upcut bits, but have the flutes running in the opposite direction. These leave a very clean cut on the surface being cut into, but require a slower feed rate than spiral upcut bits, and are better suited for more shallow cuts. As for myself, I've never had a problem with the edge cut by a straight bit, so I've never bothered to buy one. And for completeness, I'll say there are also bits that combine spiral upcut and downcut flutes into one bit, but as far as I'm aware, these are usually quite a bit more expensive, and are mostly used for CNC operations that benefit from having a single bit that is good at everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T22:15:10.247" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4560" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-24T23:25:10.570" Score="3" ViewCount="6779" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm buying a pine loft bed that comes sanded but unfinished. I'm wondering what the best finish to use would be. I have no experience finishing wood. I want to go for a natural look, and I also want a durable finish that does not require too much maintenance. I would certainly hope that glasses don't leave permanent rings on the desk. I'm not 100% sure how I feel about polyurethane's look and feel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bed has a number of components (posts, mattress and safety rails, a desk, a ladder, bookshelves, mattress slats), so it's possible that different parts need different treatment. If I'm too busy, I might choose to only finish the desk, as the manufacturer says that they recommend finishing the desk, but that other parts of the bed can be left finished or unfinished. However, I'd certainly prefer to finish the visible parts of the bed if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know whether I want to stain the bed at all. I like the color of natural pine, and staining it would be additional work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Google research originally brought me to Waterlox Tung Oil finish, and I think the oil finish look is something I'd like, but the long curing time has given me pause. It seems from the instructions that I should apply 4 or more coats, each of which takes a day to dry, and then leave it for another 3-4 days before assembling, after which I'll need to make sure my bedroom is cross-ventilated for a couple months (which I think would necessitate replacing my AC with a window fan). It's not necessarily completely unacceptable, but it poses some complications for me. I'd either be working in a not-so-ventilated basement workshop (with standard Waterlox), or I'd be doing it mostly outside (with marine Waterlox) and be careful about rain and sunlight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are my other options? I'm not averse to using a more generic Home Depot type product if it will look nice and protect the wood, especially if it will work faster without being too difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2617" LastActivityDate="2021-11-14T19:47:40.753" Title="What to finish my pine loft bed with?" Tags="|finishing|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4556" CreationDate="2016-08-25T01:50:59.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, if in shade and if the outside conditions satisfy the product label. But you could also do it in your apartment. Use cheap, thin painter's plastic and 2&quot; wide blue painters tape to &quot;seal&quot; off an area with a window. Doesn't have to be air tight. Put a blue tarp on the floor.  Ventilate with a 20&quot; box fan. Keep it simple, and use water based products like water-based polyurethane.  Don't use anything that requires solvents other than water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T01:50:59.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4560" CreationDate="2016-08-25T06:20:50.943" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I don't know whether I want to stain the bed at all. I like the color of natural pine, and staining it would be additional work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd certainly be in favour of not staining myself. It's not only that it means the pine is used as pine (not trying to pretend it's something else) but it and other similar softwoods are notorious for staining badly, giving awful blotchy results. So staining can make the wood look &lt;em&gt;worse&lt;/em&gt;, hardly the intent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Google research originally brought me to Waterlox Tung Oil finish, and I think the oil finish look is something I'd like, but the long curing time has given me pause.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  ...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  What are my other options? I'm not averse to using a more generic Home Depot type product if it will look nice and protect the wood, especially if it will work faster without being too difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was going to recommend an oil finish myself for ease of application and generally being the simplest of true finishing options. Merely waxing the wood is one of the simplest options of all if aren't leaving the wood bare, it provides nearly no protection to a functional piece (why it's not classed as a finish in its own right by many people) although it's fine for small things like decorative turnings and boxes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simplest of all oil finishes are actually plain oils of vegetable origin (nut or seed oils) and a key benefit of them and not a wood finish or polish of some kind is that oil is the sole ingredient. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So there are no solvent vapours or other VOCs to worry about, making it ideal for application indoors in a domestic environment. Cleanup also doesn't require solvents, just soap and water is all that's needed. In contrast, Tung Oil Finish will typically have a large solvent component (usually accounting for more than 50% of what's in the tin!) so it has a very pronounced solvent odour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The principal finishing oil is linseed oil, specifically what's sold as &lt;strong&gt;boiled linseed oil&lt;/strong&gt; (BLO for short). There is also raw linseed oil but this dries very much more slowly and has different uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other main option is tung oil, this gets many recommendations today which I think personally are misplaced*. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I would very much recommend BLO. I should mention that boiled linseed oil does have a characteristic smell which some people don't like, but many adore it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Info and tips on applying an oil finish from previous Q&amp;amp;As:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3145/why-is-there-a-progressive-reduction-in-oil-for-finish-maintenance-is-it-necess&quot;&gt;Why is there a progressive reduction in oil for finish/maintenance? Is it necessary?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1074/how-do-i-prepare-and-take-care-of-a-wooden-countertop/1089#1089&quot;&gt;How do I prepare and take care of a wooden countertop?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Safety note:&lt;/strong&gt; when working with BLO you must be careful of any application and wiping rags or paper towels. Don't leave them bunched up as they are a fire hazard. Leave them to dry flat on the floor if you can, or draped over the back of a wooden or metal chair, once stiff and hard they are safe to dispose of in the household waste. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This previous requirement is however a problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I would certainly hope that glasses don't leave permanent rings on the desk. I'm not 100% sure how I feel about polyurethane's look and feel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An oil finish is not water-resistant. About the only thing you can apply that is virtually guaranteed to protect the wood from sweaty glasses is varnish unfortunately, with polyurethane being one of the best (and easiest to buy) choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for your purposes consider varnishing only the desktop portion. It isn't uncommon in furniture work to finish tabletops with a full protective finish and have the legs and other components more lightly finished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Varnishing conventionally to a high standard is not easy, but there's an excellent workaround for that these days and that's thinning the varnish and wiping it on. This converts a regular varnish into what is sold as &lt;strong&gt;wiping varnish&lt;/strong&gt;. It's much easier for the novice or first-timer to achieve a great finish with wiping varnish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More details in the following Q&amp;amp;As:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3601/what-is-the-difference-between-wiping-polyurethane-and-wiping-varnish/3602#3602&quot;&gt;What is the difference between wiping polyurethane and wiping varnish?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4355/protecting-against-water-damage/4356#4356&quot;&gt;Protecting against water damage&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The characteristic look and feel that I think you're not a fan of shouldn't be a problem if you wipe the varnish on. If you do end up with a slightly glossier finish than you'd like you can reduce the shine very effectively by wiping the surface down lightly with a nylon scrubbing pad/pot scourer (clean of course!) Use light pressure and stroke in the direction of the grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*There is no real benefit to using tung oil for an interior piece — it's more difficult and slower to build up a good finish (slower in the sense of taking longer to do as some sanding is part of the recommended method), it dries more slowly on top of this so the wait times are longer, plus on top of it all eventually it ends up looking the same as if you'd used BLO. And you pay more for all of these advantages :-) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tung oil is reputed to build up to a more waterproof finish, but there are faster and more reliable ways of achieving that end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T05:47:12.363" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4552" CreationDate="2016-08-25T19:56:43.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't try to guess how much wind will force your fence and how wide feet would be needed and how much weights adds to the equation.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Instead figure out a way (construction) to adapt (change) the feet (and weights) to what you observe (learn).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T19:56:43.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4564" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4568" CreationDate="2016-08-26T22:27:30.683" Score="5" ViewCount="888" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to make a solar oven &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.williamgbecker.com/MakeSolarOven.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;like this one&lt;/a&gt;. The linked article mentions &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the odor suggested volatiles being cooked out of the plywood and maybe the paint&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm wondering if I should avoid using plywood due to the health concerns (from formaldehyde and whatever else) and glue up some wide boards in its place, which would be more work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked up some other articles like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.weemakechange.co.nz/2014/12/formaldehyde-off-gas-from-plywood.html#.V8C_88fvTOg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.proreferral.com/experts/question/do-i-need-to-worry-about-off-gassing-plywood&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; on the environmental health effects of plywood, but I can't find anything specific to using it in a cooking device. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2623" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T08:14:11.620" Title="Is the off gassing from plywood harmful when used in a cooking device?" Tags="|safety|plywood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4565" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4567" CreationDate="2016-08-27T14:02:11.237" Score="5" ViewCount="2424" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw a reference to a &quot;shadow line&quot; in the context of making a tiny rebate (rabbet for US speakers) in the top part of the bottom half (i.e. not the lid) of a decorative box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; a shadow line?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2557" LastActivityDate="2016-08-28T20:54:55.320" Title="What is a &quot;shadow line&quot;" Tags="|design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4565" CreationDate="2016-08-27T17:00:28.110" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A shadow line is exactly that -- a line of shadow created by the shaping/alignment detail of the woodwork. It makes the object more 3-dimensional, and more interesting to look at, than a flat surface would be. You can think of it as the simplest kind of decorative carving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the plans you are looking at include a photo, you should be able to see this line in the picture. Consider what the piece would look like without that line across it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference is sometimes subtle, and whether it's an improvement is always a matter of opinion -- but every element of design is a matter of opinion and many are subtle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2016-08-28T04:23:16.910" LastActivityDate="2016-08-28T04:23:16.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4565" CreationDate="2016-08-28T20:54:55.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keshlam said it well, but I want to add a few thoughts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shades and shadows are an important design consideration in any three dimensional work of art (and any woodworking project is art as well).  Shadow lines can emphasize or hide a feature. Since they are created by the lighting of the work piece the importance of the lines can change according to the direction and intensity of light.  A simple wooden box displayed in the sunlight will change in character depending upon the time of day and direction of the sun. A projection or recess near the top edge of the box can emphasize the lid. Place the shadow line near the bottom and it may de-emphasize the box base and give the body of the box the appearance of floating above the table surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shadow line may be applied to appear thick or thin, horizontal, vertical, or any angles (or curves) desired.  It can be continuous or dashed. Sometimes it is not even a real shadow as when inlaid contrasting woods are used to create the affect of a shadow for a 3D appearance.  After completing a woodcraft project I often try lighting it from various positions to see the impact the shadows have on appearance.  It may be too late for the current one, but there is always a next time!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-08-28T20:54:55.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4564" CreationDate="2016-08-29T08:14:11.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you'd only be able to get a reliable science-based answer on this from someone like an industrial chemist, and it would have to be specifically tailored to individual types of plywood due to the range of adhesives used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said however we can make some educated guesses about how safe this might be in real-world terms. The first thing is, if you're in the US, &#xA;&lt;em&gt;you are probably surrounded by board materials on a daily basis&lt;/em&gt; because of the building practices used there. This means your 'background levels' of any VOCs from plywood and other board materials would already be high, this is a fact of modern life and not something to be overly scared about and it puts into context what must amount to a tiny increase in exposure from occasional use of a solar oven. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to this, similar cooking devices (including hot boxes, for passive cooking) have been made from plywood for many decades. In that time I'm sure someone would have noticed if there were a noticeable risk and the word would start to go around, and we know this is the kind of thing that would spread like wildfire and never go away — whether well-founded or not&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now don't take this as a guarantee of any kind, but &lt;em&gt;I'd&lt;/em&gt; say this is likely safe enough that it should fall below your worry threshold. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are still concerned though, for security run the oven a few times before you use it to heat food. It's probably a good idea WRT the paint if nothing else. The coat of paint will benefit from going through a number of heating cycles, forcing it to release more volatiles as well as greatly speeding up the curing process compared to leaving it at room temperature. You can gauge the success of this by smell&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1] Two similar examples I can think of off the top of my head are MSG being responsible for &quot;Chinese food syndrome&quot; and cellphones being a fire risk at filling stations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[2] Two samples of paint applied on the same day where one was heat-cured and the other was just left at room temperature will be in very different states on day three or four. The former should have nearly no odour while the second will still have that characteristic odour of fresh paint (indicating that VOCs are still being released). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T08:14:11.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4569" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4570" CreationDate="2016-08-29T12:15:46.637" Score="3" ViewCount="879" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 5' x 5' sheets of baltic birch plywood having a thickness close to 3/4&quot; at 23/32&quot; so it's missing 1/32&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to glue 4 pieces together using yellow PVA glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm currently designing a multi-station workbench with 3&quot;x3&quot; legs (3/4 x 4 = 3&quot;) but since the material is 23/32 the total thickness would be (without gluing) 23/32 x 4 = 92/32 = 2 7/8 so I'm missing 1/8 !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However does glue add some thickness between the 4 pieces? I'm counting on the fact that it would result in getting close to an overall thickness of 3&quot;... am I right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Update:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trying to fit posts with rails, all of them consisting of 4 pieces joined together. Each piece, before being glued together, is cut with the necessary shape for either a mortise or tenon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This match is easy:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HYRiH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HYRiH.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one I am not sure:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aBgKp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aBgKp.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1451" LastEditorUserId="1451" LastEditDate="2016-08-30T14:24:27.383" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T14:24:27.383" Title="Will PVA glue add some thickness to two and more pieces of plywood?" Tags="|plywood|gluing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4569" CreationDate="2016-08-29T13:31:21.917" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;using the proper amount of glue will not fill in the remaining 1/8&quot;, not by a long shot. The thickness of each layer, once fully dried, should be microns, not even hundredths on an inch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, I would caution you against trying to calculate these sort of dimensions beforehand, and just use the actual workpiece dimensions as you progress with the project... it'll be much less frustrating! variations in dimensions on (or even greater) than the order of glue film thickness can be caused by humidity changes, so what's the point?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T13:31:21.917" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4571" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4572" CreationDate="2016-08-29T16:48:49.557" Score="2" ViewCount="1602" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to design a fold-down table that is going to be attached to a wall with its legs folded under it when in down position. The problem is -- there is less space under the table top than is necessary for a leg that would reach all the way to the floor. Think top reaching floor when folded, so when unfolded it needs support that is as long as the top is deep. But wall mount (a horizontal bar with piano hinge) takes up space needed by the folded leg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to solve that I'm planning to fold part of the leg itself by connecting L-shaped assembly of 3 cubes all rotating against each other. Pretty much exactly like is done in this wooden cube puzzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.ytimg.com/vi/iTzVPgFjE9c/maxresdefault.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.ytimg.com/vi/iTzVPgFjE9c/maxresdefault.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://i.ytimg.com/vi/iTzVPgFjE9c/maxresdefault.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When extended and unfolded leg would stand on the last cube, when folded cubes would fold flat under the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question is, how to join the parts? Joint won't be load bearing, but should be fairly tight without wearing down wood after repeated rotating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE:&#xA;Below is a rough illustration of folded leg on the left and unfolded on the right. Difference between pictures is cubes are rotated 180 degrees around red axes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hJJFb.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hJJFb.png&quot; alt=&quot;folded (left) and unfolded (right) leg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE2:&#xA;Here is how wall/top/leg(s) are related. Red arcs are folding points (piano hinges). Blue lines are of equal size. So first leg folds up to the top, then top folds down to the wall. Idea is that folded top lays flat against the wall and looks pretty, hiding leg assembly under some trim (thus I'm going for fold down instead of fold up). There will be a second leg on the other side as well (with a bar between them if needed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MimX4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MimX4.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want the table to be fairly stable and support a decent load, thus top resting on the wall mount when unfolded and not just hanging from the hinge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2633" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2016-08-30T19:53:35.210" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T19:53:35.210" Title="Joining 3 wooden cubes with swivel joints" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4571" CreationDate="2016-08-29T19:39:03.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Glue in some strong magnets and you have swivelling points.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;That is an answer to your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if I might dare change your solution, instead mount a hinge on the leg so you only have 2 parts instead of 4, and only 1 moving instead of 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also; if the table is wider than its depth, and you allow for one leg to be further in, you can fold them sideways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T19:39:03.620" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4068" CreationDate="2016-08-31T01:00:12.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to using scrap to support the wood during a cut, as Bert said, grain direction can affect tear out.  In your photograph above, the cuts are being made on end grain, which greatly increases the odds of tear out, unless you can change the direction of the cut in some way to avoid pulling at the grain as you leave the cut.  I don't have any experience with routers, so I'm not sure what your options would be if you have to make an end-grain cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in this specific case, the grain should be running along the length of the dovetails, instead of across the dovetails.  (Dovetails are subjected mostly to tension forces, and wood does not have very good tensile strength across the grain.)  Putting the dovetails on the correct sides of the board should reduce or eliminate the tear out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T01:00:12.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4574" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4583" CreationDate="2016-08-31T16:41:15.207" Score="2" ViewCount="662" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a relative neophyte to woodworking and just sketched the &lt;a href=&quot;https://spaces.hightail.com/space/P44bR&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;first project&lt;/a&gt; I'm looking at approaching&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My dual questions are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;are the 1 1/1 inch legs enough to support the structure as drawn? How does a woodworker calculate load bearing for legs, especially &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have read a bit about wood movement due to humidity in an all, whole wood project. Do I need to account for this in my project or is that more restricted to items like tables/will my the components of my piece move in unison. If so, how would I adjust for that so I don't get a split?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PqwbK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PqwbK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2638" LastEditorUserId="2638" LastEditDate="2016-09-01T01:26:35.313" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T07:21:49.667" Title="Load Bearing of Legs and Wood Movement on TV Console" Tags="|furniture|design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4574" CreationDate="2016-08-31T17:01:15.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It is unclear if you intend to use 1&quot; or 1 1/2&quot; square legs.  In either case the legs can certainly carry the vertical load.  However, the legs are shown on an angle from vertical and this will place a greater deal of strain on the joint between the horizontal and vertical elements of leg assembly. To resist this I would definitely use a deeper profile to maximize the gluing surface between the two elements.  I would use a mortise and tenon connection, and if possible a double mortise joint to provide maximum strength against the pressure to have the leg splay out in the direction of the angle.  Better yet would be to have a vertical leg to avoid the lateral force.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the case is built using plywood or MDF the wood movement will be minimal and can be ignored.  On the other hand, if the panels are made from solid wood panel glue-ups then there will be significant differential movement across the width of the panels relative to the length which will not change at all.  Any place where the woods grains are connected perpendicular to each other should not be fully glued up, but must accommodate the differential movement. &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/908/what-general-considerations-do-i-need-to-take-into-account-for-wood-movement&quot;&gt;This question&lt;/a&gt;, amoungst many others, dscusses the basics of planning for wood movement.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T17:01:15.723" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4576" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4582" CreationDate="2016-08-31T18:48:07.957" Score="4" ViewCount="7441" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will a solid wood table top still move if it is finished from all sides with polyurethane or some other water resistant finish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does that depend on temperature as well? Assuming temperature differences are big enough comparing to when wood was finished (furniture left outside for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that calling for trouble in case of incomplete seal or when finish gets inevitably breached by normal wear and wood starts to take up moisture again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2633" LastActivityDate="2021-04-22T13:53:13.627" Title="Is sealing wood with urethane or the like enough to avoid wood movement?" Tags="|wood-movement|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1720" CreationDate="2016-08-31T19:30:44.017" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being an old fogey, I have a lot of experience with 110 vs. 220 in a shop environment, both commercial and personal.  My primary tool for years (early 60's on) was a radial arm (all 10&quot; Craftsman's, my current one is circa 1958).  Having run it on both 110 and 220, the biggest difference is power recovery.  Not only is the start-up much faster, but any cut's through knots or tough grains will be a lot smoother with very little lag through knots, etc.  Yes, it is a fact there is no power difference between the two voltages at the motor when running static. The 220 volt saw just tends to have smoother and more consistent cuts, especially in tougher materials.  Of course a good Sharp, negative angle blade is a must as well with any voltage, but the advantage goes to more voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2639" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T19:30:44.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1687" CreationDate="2016-08-31T21:10:40.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To really understand the inner workings of this frame and all ornate style mouldings, is to start at the beginning; I too was in search of how this is done for the same reason, I desire to build my own frame styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1st step; learn about &quot;Running Moulds&quot; it is a concept of how plaster is used to create &quot;Frame Like Designs&quot; on Walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2nd step; Look at the 45* cuts from ornate frames and study the image; you see that the plaster over wood method was used. How this is done ... well I am working that out now, but not for a small budget.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3rd step; Plaster is liken to clay that hardens quickly, so &quot;Yes&quot; to your question; Can I use plaster then apply it to the base shape before it hardens, use a plastic wrap or 2&quot;-clear tape over the base frame shape, to avoid adhesion to the frame, let the plaster take its shape while drying. When the plaster has set, remove it and use it as a (positive mold) (search for directions) and make others from it, or apply glue and set on frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: if you make plaster molds from templates; try letting them harden, remove from template, spray a mist of water on them, until soft to bend, lay on the curvature of your frame to reset and take on the shape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4th step; paint as you desire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good Luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2640" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T21:10:40.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4576" CreationDate="2016-08-31T21:55:10.663" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A finish is not a hermetic seal. It may slow wood movement; it will not prevent wood movement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Humidity matters much more than temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T21:55:10.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1084" CreationDate="2016-09-01T01:19:36.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, I hope my ASCII art skills are sufficient...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of an angled louver, it could be simpler to make a stair-step louver.  You would do this by cutting a mortise from the inside of the board, to slightly over half the depth of the board.  Then cut a mortise from the outside of the board, again to slightly over half the depth of the board.  The trick is to make the outer mortise lower than the inner mortise, by about half the width of the mortise.  The mortises can be cut using a plunge router, or chiseled by hand and cleaned up with a router plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;|      |&#xA;|  #####&#xA;########&#xA;#####  |&#xA;|      |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T01:19:36.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4581" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-01T06:41:00.633" Score="4" ViewCount="223" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a newbie to this community and appreciate being able to ask this question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is Blackwood suseptable to hairline cracking across the end grain of quartersawn wood ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm building a solid body guitar from 2 x pieces of very dry Blackwood blanks and after routing the body shape, sanded the body edge with 80 grit at the advice of a cabinetmaker, with the view to move up in grit to 320. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a few runs around the body I noticed some scratches where the 2 quartersawn blanks meet on the bottom end of the body. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So Ive tried sanding them out with 120, but after removing a good couple of mm, I am doubting these are scratches from the 80 grit. They seem to just keep going into the timber. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is Blackwood susceptible to cracking across the end grain ? The photo shows the area, the hairline cracks runs at 90 degrees to the Blackwood grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you,&#xA;Don&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DtRpb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DtRpb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2643" LastActivityDate="2016-09-11T10:51:09.420" Title="Tasmanian Blackwood - hairline cracks?" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4576" CreationDate="2016-09-01T06:43:42.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Will a solid wood table top still move if it is finished from all sides with polyurethane or some other water resistant finish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can, in theory at least, completely seal off wood from the elements but it's really only possible using epoxy and even with that it must be applied at a substantial thickness with no pinholes or gaps in the finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does that depend on temperature as well? Assuming temperature differences are big enough comparing to when wood was finished (furniture left outside for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood doesn't expand and contract much with changes in temperature only (not enough to care about). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason temperature generally matters is that higher air temperatures often go hand in hand with higher humidity, lower temperatures with lower humidity, and it is its &lt;em&gt;internal water level that makes wood change dimension&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is that calling for trouble in case of incomplete seal or when finish gets inevitably breached by normal wear and wood starts to take up moisture again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That would depend on if you designed the piece so that wood movement isn't allowed for :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's an attractive idea, that we can seal off wood from moisture in the air to make it as stable as possible, but in reality it's a PITA to do and &lt;em&gt;it's just not necessary&lt;/em&gt;. Only where it hasn't been allowed for is it an issue..... such as in cheap furniture built from dimensional lumber using bad plans provided free on the Internet -_- It's worth remembering that virtually everything that's ever been built from wood expands and contracts and it's not a problem because allowance has been made for it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where you want or need to make something that doesn't change dimension you shouldn't use wood, not solid wood at least. MDF or plywood are very good options to make something that looks like wood but is more dimensionally stable and of course there are now a wealth of synthetic materials to pick from as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need pointers on how to allow for movement see this previous Answer:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/908/what-general-considerations-do-i-need-to-take-into-account-for-wood-movement/910?s=19|0.0984#910&quot;&gt;What general considerations do I need to take into account for wood movement?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T06:43:42.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4574" CreationDate="2016-09-01T07:21:49.667" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;are the 1 1/1 inch legs enough to support the structure as drawn? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes the should be, but species matters. If the legs are cheap pine for example they won't be nearly as strong as if they were any reasonable pieces of white oak. Just to note that you will need to cut the tenons to fit the mortises very carefully as any play will result in weaker joints*. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might find this previous Answer worth a look, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2591/what-is-the-strongest-join-for-splayed-legs/2594#2594&quot;&gt;What is the strongest join for splayed legs?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How does a woodworker calculate load bearing for legs, especially &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's a good question and the answer is they usually don't. This is generally a seat-of-the-pants thing for nearly all furniture work. It's widely acknowledged that a lot of furniture is a little to a lot over-engineered, using material that's thicker than needed and with joints stronger than than strictly necessary. But together they give better assurance that something will hold up well to use and abuse over a long lifespan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have read a bit about wood movement due to humidity in an all, whole wood project. Do I need to account for this in my project or is that more restricted to items like tables/will the components of my piece move in unison.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes you need to account for movement. Only on quite small projects can you get away with ignoring it completely (if using solid wood). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If so, how would I adjust for that so I don't get a split?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's nothing in the overall design that needs to be adjusted, but there are a few areas to pay attention to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vertical divider&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In case it's not obvious you need to orient the grain of this vertically to match the case, so that expansion and contraction occurs back to front and not up and down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you oriented the grain on this horizontally at maximum expansion (during the wettest part of the year) the panel would exert enough force that it would probably bow the top and bottom, and if the back panel were fixed in place it could split it or tear it free from the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Back panel&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I would recommend you make this from plywood or another board material. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you make it from solid wood the grain &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; run horizontally and it would be highly advisable to make it up from quarter-sawn wood to keep dimensional changes within reasonable limits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Leg assembly&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is a little over-engineered by the way. Two leg frames that aren't joined at all would be fine here, but go ahead with it as designed if you want the practice in the joinery. If you would like to simplify it slightly the cross-members can be joined with half laps/halving joints instead of with M&amp;amp;T joints which aren't necessary for strength here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How you join this to the case is critical. Since the leg assembly is much like the legs and apron on a table, and the grain on the case is as it would be on a tabletop you should basically attach the two together in the same sort of way. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2720/will-these-table-legs-support-this-table/2731#2731&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt; for two good simple methods. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*If this does occur you don't necessarily need to re-cut the components however. Instead you could glue using epoxy, which is a very good gap-filling adhesive (most common wood glues are not). Fill the epoxy with fine sanding dust to a thicker consistency if necessary, aim for a viscosity anywhere from around thick honey to that of mayonnaise. Use a slow-setting epoxy to give yourself plenty of time to work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want even further security in addition you could peg the tenons through the face of the joint. Glue the tenons in first, wait for the adhesive to set then drill and peg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T07:21:49.667" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4581" CreationDate="2016-09-01T08:16:18.410" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know Tasmanian blackwood at all I'm afraid so can't be specific about that, but all wood has the potential to crack in this way. This doesn't mean the drying was carried out poorly, although an excessive tendency towards this would generally indicate this sometimes it's just inherent to the wood (sometimes just the individual board). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not what you asked about but as you included details of your sanding I wanted to comment on a few aspects. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;sanded the body edge with 80 grit at the advice of a cabinetmaker&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;80 grit is not a finishing grit, it should never be used unless you're dimensioning or shaping wood. I presume what you were doing would be classed as a finishing operation and unless something unplanned for has occurred you should never need to resort to 80 when finishing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;100 is about the coarsest you would normally need to use and frequently 120 is the starting grit of choice, coarse enough to do what's needed not too slowly while not leaving excessively obvious scratches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously the quality of the routed surface is a factor here and routing operations, if carried out properly, should leave a surface good enough that only minimal sanding is required. If not, look at your router speed and feed rate, as well as the sharpness and design of the bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can nearly strive to have the routed surface be finish-ready. A quality router bit that's very sharp is an important starting point for this but doing the lightest of skimming passes as a last step should always improve results. One way of doing this is by running tape around the template, or on the router's fence, when doing the major shaping and then remove it for one final skimming pass (taking off wood equal to the thickness of the tape used).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;with the view to move up in grit to 320&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider sanding to a lower grit on the face grain (220/240) and a higher grit on the end grain (400 or even 600), to help even up the colour once finish is applied. Sand the end grain first, then do the face grain as a final pass sanding by hand using a block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T08:16:18.410" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4585" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-31T14:19:35.053" Score="3" ViewCount="3108" Body="&lt;p&gt;About a week ago I took the clamps off a table I am making. I used biscuits to join the boards lengthwise and Titebond III glue on the biscuits. When I took the clamps off the seams looked great. Now, a week later, the seam in the middle of the table has opened up about 1/16-1/8 in and you can see the biscuit. I've tried to squeeze it back shut, but no luck. Any ideas? What about wood filler that I sand off? Or should I slip a hand saw in the seam, cut the biscuits that can be seen and add glue along the butts off the boards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks- Steve&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Steve Stasson" LastActivityDate="2016-09-03T12:39:26.847" Title="DIY Farmtable, Gap in table seams, biscuit joints did not hold" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4586" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-01T12:08:56.260" Score="3" ViewCount="2301" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to make a temporary work platform to go between two steel joists 8ft apart where the platform would be around 12in wide. To be on the safe side the platform should be able to support 2 adults, so say 400lb. I was thinking of making a simple box beam from 12mm constructional ply as I have enough available. My question is how deep should the beam be to support the required load? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2644" LastActivityDate="2016-09-08T02:07:27.930" Title="Calculating the required depth of a plywood box beam" Tags="|plywood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4585" CreationDate="2016-09-02T07:56:22.573" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not clear from what you've written if you applied glue along the joint as well, it sounds like it was just to the biscuits/slots. If so for future reference you need to know &lt;em&gt;the biscuits aren't holding the boards together in a joint like this&lt;/em&gt;, they are primarily an &lt;strong&gt;alignment aid&lt;/strong&gt; during assembly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The glue joint on the board edges provides &gt;95% of the strength in this type of joint (long grain to long grain).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What about wood filler that I sand off? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use filler if you like, but a 1/16&quot;-1/8&quot; line of filler won't be very attractive. The main worry would be about structural integrity though, those open joints will have next to no strength and it may cause a problem down the line. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are superior choices for filler here (epoxy probably being the best and strongest) but since you're willing to saw the panel apart don't worry about that for now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Or should I slip a hand saw in the seam, cut the biscuits that can be seen...?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That would be the best way to approach this. For someone with a fully equipped shop when something goes wrong with a panel glue-up almost always the advice is to run the problem joint through the table saw and then glue it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can skip adding fresh biscuits this time if you like, but add a couple again if you need the help with alignment during the glue-up. But be sure that you apply plenty of glue to the long-grain edges of the boards this time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want to ensure that you apply enough glue that some squeezes out along the entire length of the joint, that's what tells you you applied enough. Clamp &lt;em&gt;firmly&lt;/em&gt; as it is high clamp pressure that ensures a good glue bond (don't worry about squeezing out too much glue, this is nearly impossible to do in real-world conditions). You're actually aiming to squeeze the boards together hard enough that the glue joint is nearly invisible, yes, &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; thin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to looking better thinner glue lines are stronger than thicker ones with most woodworking adhesives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some previous Q&amp;amp;As that might be helpful:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/229/what-is-a-good-way-to-prevent-jointed-tabletops-from-bowing-when-tightening-fast&quot;&gt;What is a good way to prevent jointed tabletops from bowing when tightening fasteners or the glue sets?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4233/what-are-the-different-grain-directions-and-how-do-they-affect-joint-strength/4240#4240&quot;&gt;What are the different grain directions, and how do they affect joint strength?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1986/what-advantages-do-f-style-clamps-offer-for-gluing-up-a-thick-laminate/1988#1988&quot;&gt;What advantages do F-style clamps offer for gluing up a thick laminate?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T07:56:22.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4588" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4591" CreationDate="2016-09-02T18:09:30.613" Score="3" ViewCount="4528" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to build a chair mat for the desk in my home office which has high pile carpet. It gets heavy use and I'm tired of buying a new plastic one every year or so. The last one I got was from Costco and supposedly super heavy-duty. Cost was around $100 US, but it hasn't quite lasted a full two years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dimensions needed are approximately 50&quot;x60&quot;, no more than ¾&quot; think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be good to use to construct it? I'm assuming wood will last much longer, but suspect using solid lumber might be too heavy, although I've read good things about bamboo and it's fairly light (even if not actually wood). That leaves plywood, possibly hardwood-veneered if it would make it last longer (or be advantageous in some other way beside looking nice).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since appearance isn't high priority, perhaps putting some type of commercial flooring on top be worth the extra trouble? If not, what would be the pros and cons of various finishes? Being able to refinish it easily would be a plus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2264" LastActivityDate="2016-09-03T07:21:16.100" Title="Materials and finish for an office chair mat?" Tags="|wood-selection|durability|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4588" CreationDate="2016-09-02T23:56:33.143" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A sheet of hardboard is another traditional solution, though it may wear as quickly as the plastic does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try applying flooring to a sheet of plywood to create a portable floor, akin to the dance-floor modules some hotels drop over their carpet when an event needs that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could ask a hotel where they buy those modules and see if you can place a small order at an affordable price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could just finish a piece of furniture-quality hardwood plywood. Possibility apply threshold edging too, to make it a bit less of a tripping hazard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... Or you could consider looking in a real office supply company and see if they have a chair mat that will hold up to the way you are using it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T23:56:33.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4588" CreationDate="2016-09-03T07:21:16.100" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plywood seems like a good solution here until you look at the material in detail. With modern plywood in particular, in addition to generally not being as well-made as plywood used to be (more voids, junkier wood in the core layers) over the years the surface ply has gotten incrementally thinner, to the point where on some plywood it's now like a sheet of paper.... and about as durable! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even very good quality cabinet plywood (note: not all &quot;cabinet grade&quot; plywood is good) has a fairly thin surface ply of the 'show wood' and wouldn't be made to have the necessary durability. What is made to be durable enough is flooring, where regardless of what's used underneath the wood or bamboo laminate surface is &lt;em&gt;significantly&lt;/em&gt; thicker than that on plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for a high-wear surface if the choice were between plywood and flooring I know which one I'd go with. Since you can't just use the flooring by itself it would need to be mounted on a board material (plywood or OSB) which will make for a very thick 'mat'! I don't know how high the ply is on your carpet but it would need to be in the range of 70s shag carpet for the resulting thickness not to be some issue :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever wood/bamboo solution you go with the ideal finish is the same thing you'd use on a floor. A quality floor-grade varnish should give you the same durability you'd have if the carpet weren't there and you were rolling the chair directly on a wood floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What about the chair?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There are two things interacting here and you shouldn't look at just one of them. I think you should also examine the castors/casters on your chair. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Castor wheels are made in various materials and harder ones are very wearing of floor surfaces. Modern laminate flooring (which has a very thin resin-reinforced paper surface) wears quickly when hard castors are used, but much better if softer ones are fitted. Regardless of what mat you come up with if the chair's castors are hard it would be worth changing them to a softer type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-09-03T07:21:16.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4585" CreationDate="2016-09-03T12:39:26.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before cutting anything I would suggest you clamp the table back tightly and get your hands on a heat gun and if you do not have that use a hair dryer (requires some patience :) and adjust your clamps as needed to keep it tight until gap closes. Prior to it , brush or squeeze glue in that area. Dry well after achieved. Depending on your finish look, if any. I would consider a frame you can nail around the table or applying an epoxy finish to it. Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2650" LastActivityDate="2016-09-03T12:39:26.847" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4461" CreationDate="2016-09-03T12:47:15.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use to be a contractor and built car washes. In high moisture or soaking wet areas (even exposed) we use marine plywood. Its very attractive, so do not let the plywood part scare you off. It is what is also used in boats and takes stains nicely. Very durable, water and weight pretty much has no bad effect on it. It would require extreme abuse. Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2650" LastActivityDate="2016-09-03T12:47:15.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4594" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4596" CreationDate="2016-09-03T14:58:30.460" Score="5" ViewCount="4087" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just picked up a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.grizzly.com/products/1-HP-Dust-Collector/G8027?utm_campaign=zPage&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Grizzly G8027&lt;/a&gt;, after previously using a small shop vac + &lt;a href=&quot;https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GZLCHM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dust deputy cyclone&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am, possibly incorrectly, assuming that I should be using both together.  So I am considering running the 4&quot; hose from the dust collector into the cyclone, and then back out.  That means I go 4&quot; to 1.5&quot; and again from 1.5&quot; to 4&quot; to attach to my table saw, jointer, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt; - It turns out I could also use a 2.5&quot; fitting instead of 1.5&quot; fitting (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oneida-air.com/inventoryD.asp?Item_No=AXD000004A&amp;amp;CatId=%7B6EE79B16-EB63-43E7-8F30-1E06240A24A4%7D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;shown here&lt;/a&gt;, it's a tapered end on the dust deputy).  Is that any better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or should I get a trash can separator lid off of amazon?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Am I reducing my CFM by doing this?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I even need the Dust Deputy?  From what I understand the cyclone is great to use in conjunction with a dust collector to minimize the dust that makes it into the Grizzly bag&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bonus: You see the hose I have.  I need something sturdy that I can use coming out of the cyclone into the woodworking equipment (4&quot; ports), which will facility a lot of plugging in / out all of the time.  Any ideas?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In these photos, please disregard the terrible 4&quot; connection into the deputy, I'm trying to find the right adapters at the moment =).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/heLdM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/heLdM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Collector 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jeEOT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jeEOT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Collector 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2136" LastEditorUserId="2136" LastEditDate="2016-09-03T17:18:29.197" LastActivityDate="2016-09-04T00:12:13.267" Title="Will this setup severely reduce the CFM from my dust collector?" Tags="|sawdust|dust-collection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4595" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4598" CreationDate="2016-09-03T17:21:44.750" Score="12" ViewCount="4064" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm practicing building drawers, quickly and on the cheap. The drawers I'm making now have sides that are 3&quot; high x 7/16&quot; actual thickness, decent quality birch veneer plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this is really basic, but I'm struggling with the corner joints on the drawers. The reason I'm practicing is ultimately I want to build a few storage cabinets with about 40 drawers total = 160 corner joints I'm going to have to make. I'm trying to come up with a workflow that is both &lt;em&gt;quick&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;precise&lt;/em&gt;. I also really want the joint to be hidden. I'm not too concerned about super high strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relevant tools I currently own are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A table saw, one of the cheap but relatively decent Ridgid ones.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A biscuit cutter, the Makita one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A Kreg jig.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tons of clamps of various sizes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A portable bandsaw with a little table for it, although the miter slots aren't lined up properly with the blade.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A scroll saw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A trim router, hand-held, with a makeshift table. 20000 RPM min speed and terrifying. In the table usually I just end up shooting large wooden projectiles across the room.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All the basic stuff, drills, hammers, chisels, various hand saws and such.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's countless ways to join corners in theory but in reality I'm actually really having a hard time with even the most basic stuff. The techniques I've tried so far have been mostly successful but &lt;em&gt;not quick or easy&lt;/em&gt; -- at least not as quick and easy as I'd &lt;em&gt;like&lt;/em&gt; them to be -- and also pretty error prone:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Butt Joints:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using glue only, do the &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tZikx.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;clamp-a-square-thing-into-the-corner&lt;/a&gt; technique. I put wax paper in the corner to keep the square from being glued to the piece. Problems: &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's actually very difficult to keep the joint flush and straight while at the same time somehow positioning the block in the corner, putting two clamps on, and not getting glue everywhere. It's &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; easy for this joint to become not flush any more.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's impossible to wipe wet glue off the interior corner, and it tends to squeeze out and be forced along the wax paper and make a big mess.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Current best:&lt;/strong&gt; Using glue only, use &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9XGRF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;these 90 degree clamps&lt;/a&gt;, one on top and one on the bottom. This is the best technique I've found so far, but it's still pretty rough. Problems:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's tough to position the wood in the clamps so that the outside remains perfectly flush. It's totally doable, but takes more finesse than I want it to. It's a many-step process to get everything set up to be flush.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I only own 8 of these clamps, which means I can only glue up 1 drawer at a time. At $10 each I'd need to buy another $80 of hardware that I wouldn't really need for any other project just to raise my throughput to 2 drawers at a time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Biscuits for alignment: Should work in theory. Problems:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In practice it's very difficult because despite how often I've practiced with this thing, I have yet to discover a good technique for perfectly straight, positioned cuts on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7O2Cs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;side that you have to cut into the face of&lt;/a&gt; (i.e. the end-grain cut is easy, but I really have a hard time keeping the biscuit cutter straight and properly positioning the biscuit on the face cut).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's tricky to design everything so that the biscuit doesn't interfere with the dado I've cut for the drawer's slide track.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Line up the butt joint, drill pilot holes, glue, and screw it together. Then remove the screws after the glue dries and plug the holes. The main problem with this is it takes forever, and still has the same difficulties holding the joint true and flush.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pocket holes: The Kreg jig just doesn't do that well with 7/16&quot; thick material, it's a bit too thin, and the plywood tends to get torn apart. Plus, same alignment difficulties when driving the screws in. Also I have to use these just as temporary screws, because since the material is so thin the screw heads hang out past the face.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nails to temporarily hold wood in place. Same set of problems as above + lots of bruised fingers. And the nails end up permanent, really hard to pull nails back out without tearing up the pieces. I don't want the nails to be visible on the outside.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill holes, insert dowels: Aesthetically acceptable but a huge pain and has same alignment issues as just putting screws in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rabbetted corners: I can't actually figure out how to cut these quickly. I can do it on the table saw but making the two rabbets line up properly is way harder than it sounds. Also this doesn't really gain me anything at all in terms of speed or alignment ease over gluing the butt joints.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tongue-and-groove variants: No idea how to cut these easily. Same difficulty getting the tongue and groove to line up properly as with the rabbets. Plus the plywood starts to become very weak and the thinner bits tend to snap off during assembly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how can I do this, in reality, given that e.g. my grandfather hasn't been passing on his mystical woodworking knowledge to me for the last 35 years of my life? I'm just a normal person, not one of those legendary woodworking samurais who can hand-cut perfect dovetails in 5 seconds, while drunk, with their eyes closed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm really struggling to find a quick and precise technique given my current set of tools and fine motor control skills. It's easy with large pieces but the 3&quot; x 7/16&quot; plywood seems to be introducing new challenges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2016-09-06T00:16:04.260" LastActivityDate="2016-09-06T00:16:04.260" Title="Quick corner joints in practice" Tags="|technique|joinery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4594" CreationDate="2016-09-03T23:56:42.103" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you just murdered your CFM. In short:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any cyclone adds resistance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sizing down from 4&quot; to 2.5&quot; or 1.5&quot; reduces CFM because the cross-section of the pipe is dramatically reduced&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flex hose adds more resistance than smooth pipe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Numerous sharp bends (90 degrees or more) add significant resistance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/3218/49&quot;&gt;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/3218/49&lt;/a&gt; for more information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you noted, you are using a cyclone intended for use with a shop-vac; however, Oneida manufactures a different 4&quot; model intended for dust collectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, if you run the numbers, even the best 2HP or less dust collectors hooked up to a tool with a mostly straight 10' run of 4&quot; flex hose will barely produce the necessary 4000 FPM air velocity at the tool to capture most of the dust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-09-04T00:12:13.267" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4597" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-04T05:30:57.690" Score="2" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this mid-century round dining table. The table top is veneer, and it's damaged with bubbles and scratches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cost for fixing/re-veneering seems to be between $400 and $800.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it worth doing for this table? It is very sturdy and seems to be from the 1950 or 1960s. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the image below and more detailed images &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.flickr.com/photos/marekfoto/albums/72157670168796833&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XMmqe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XMmqe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2653" LastActivityDate="2016-09-04T05:30:57.690" Title="Mid-century table: Is it worth re-veneering?" Tags="|wood-repair|veneer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2016-09-05T16:01:42.453" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4595" CreationDate="2016-09-04T08:42:02.717" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It's actually very difficult to keep the joint flush and straight while at the same time somehow positioning the block in the corner, putting two clamps on, and not getting glue everywhere. It's really easy for this joint to become not flush any more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Butt joints are inherently prone to shifting about as you're trying to clamp, glue is very lubricative and it's just two flat surfaces trying to slide past each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like anything you'll get better at juggling things with practice and by slightly improving how you go about it. For example without any other changes to your current setup you could have an easier time of it, e.g. by using more and/or different clamps — quick clamps shift slightly at penultimate grip point, four smaller clamps allow for much less shifting or rotation than two large ones. But best and simplest of all, &lt;em&gt;clamping firmly to one board before you've even applied glue&lt;/em&gt;. Yeah I didn't think of that last one early on either, obvious though it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition there are a few simple things that can really help you out here. The most simple being a larger block. If it's nearly the full 3&quot; height it gives you a much larger registration surface so reduces the ability of the drawer pieces to rotate on the horizontal axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One step up from this, build a dedicated right-angle clamping fixture specifically for this drawer size. Same basic benefit of the much larger block but slightly lighter and easier to manipulate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or best of all, make yourself a set of something like these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o8QZI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o8QZI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Corner clamping jigs&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I hope is clear from the picture you can form the grooves by glueing and screwing blocks in place on a base board, or routing crossing dados at a perfect 90°, whichever is simplest for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also have a look at the version locked by wedges, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/projects/109202&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one on Lumberjocks&lt;/a&gt;, reducing the number of clamps being tied up during the process to nearly zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It's impossible to wipe wet glue off the interior corner, and it tends to squeeze out and be forced along the wax paper and make a big mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try applying slightly less glue to the inside edge to try to limit squeeze-out on that edge, but the first thing I would do is ditch the wax paper. You can get away with this by relieving the inside corner of the block or clamping fixture, so the glue will just squeeze out and stay put (to be cleaned up later, at the rubbery stage or after hardening). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think butt joints have a lot to recommend them for quick-and-dirty drawer construction where you don't need a lot of strength. It's very easy however to add something to them to take them up a notch, making the joint very much stronger while allowing for perfect registration during the glue-up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Biscuits are obviously one of those. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It's tricky to design everything so that the biscuits don't interfere with the dados I've cut for either the drawer tracks or the bottom panel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't use two biscuits. A biscuit is a linear alignment aid already so inherently helps to keep things straight. Two is overkill on a 3&quot; joint face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dowels are another. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are a favourite solution of mine because they're so simple and pre-date biscuits and Dominoes. They offer the same assurance of alignment, and reinforcement of the joint is just as good if not better, with the key benefit of requiring no specialist (expensive) equipment to be bought. At the most basic you can do it using one drill, one bit and some dowel rod*. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Drill holes, insert dowels: Aesthetically acceptable but a huge pain and has same alignment issues as just putting screws in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One or more of the above tips should solve your alignment issues but if you were forced to work without aids something you can do to make drilling easier is instead of drilling after glue has been applied to make the joint slippery, do it before. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like one additional step that just adds to the workload but you could set up a production line to do the operation repeatedly (the heart of all mass production) and you'd work through them all in no time. Then come assembly time everything is ready to go, greatly speeding up that part of the operation so you'd probably have a net gain in speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Modified as needed, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3841/how-can-i-flute-my-own-dowel-or-create-dowel-with-similar-properties/3851#3851&quot;&gt;fluted or grooved&lt;/a&gt; and with the leading edge chamfered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-09-05T07:09:01.853" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4599" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-05T10:31:54.663" Score="1" ViewCount="55" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am very knew to working with wood. What I am trying to do is a &quot;poker suitcase&quot;. My question is how I would do the dovetailing (hope it is the right word). I have never done one so I don't know how to do so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Case should look like this &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rEr1h.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rEr1h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First question: How to do such a neat dovetailing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question two: How is the top made? Are they just stick another wood piece on the top? Or is it nailed? How do I do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2660" LastActivityDate="2016-09-05T14:51:37.203" Title="Building a wooden poker bag" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2016-09-05T16:07:17.367" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4599" CreationDate="2016-09-05T14:51:37.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, in order to make this box you will need a tablesaw with a dado saw blade set. The width of each missing tooth in the box joint is important. The teeth must fit snugly in the gap of the partner piece with just enough room for glue but no visible gaps. Dado sets include shims to allow adjusting the width of a cut down to several hundredths/thousandths of an inch so you can get a great fit after several test cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you choose solid wood side panels, you may find it difficult to find wood of the desired thickness so you may need a planer to mill thicker stock to the desired profile. As an alternative, you could use plywood, but consider that the ends of the fingers may not appear as attractive as those in your image since the plywood is made of multiple layers and they may have small gaps which can show up on the ends giving a more ragged appearance. Your image also shows that the top is made of plywood which will be much easier than gluing together a top from multiple solid wood pieces, but may also have some gaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next step is to make a jig so that the individual cuts for each tooth are uniformly spaced.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NutwD7B6tmE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This video&lt;/a&gt; by William Ng shows how to make a very simple and effective jig and how to use it effectively.  Note that the length of the teeth should be slightly longer than the depth of the gaps so that the individual teeth are just proud of the sides when glued.  Once the box sides are glued together and set up you will sand the edges flush for a smooth, flat finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that nails are not necessary for the top and bottom.  Any PVA wood glue applied along the contact surfaces should be adequate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you cut the side panels you will cut the width for the entire side  (do not cut the lid and bottom sides separately). The lid is cut off of the assembled box once everything, including the top and bottom are glued in place and sanded smooth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if you have a router with a flush trim bit you can trim the finger and top and bottom edges flush much easier than by had sanding them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-09-05T14:51:37.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4601" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4625" CreationDate="2016-09-06T00:31:41.267" Score="3" ViewCount="6100" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B002YPHSIG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1/2&quot; 2 flute end mill bit&lt;/a&gt;, which fits in my table top drill press (1/2&quot; chuck). I'm making perfectly flat bottomed holes (won't be seen in the final project) that go almost all the way through hard wood, so I can't use a forstner bit (because of the center tip). So far, the end mill bit has been working. However, I need to make a bunch of 3/4&quot; diameter holes. That's been tedious since it means making 4-5 holes for each 3/4&quot; hole (clamp, make hole, move a little, clamp, make hole....).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't seem to find an end mill bit that has a 1/2&quot; shank but 3/4&quot; cutting diameter. I did see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1168/can-i-use-a-plungable-router-bit-on-a-drill-press/1172#1172&quot;&gt;this post about using a plunge router bit on a drill press&lt;/a&gt; though I haven't seen a router bit that looks like it'll cut a flat bottom. Also, from that post, people recommended a fast speed for the drill press, though the instructions on the press recommend slower speeds for hard wood. So I'm confused at that too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Welcome any thoughts - thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I also just ran across &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01F8US32I&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this cleaning router bit&lt;/a&gt; - could that work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2664" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-09-09T13:23:01.633" Title="How to make a 3/4&quot; flat bottomed hole?" Tags="|drilling|router-bit|drill-bits|holes|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4602" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-06T01:02:06.837" Score="4" ViewCount="1522" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may be a bit too broad for this site, but I hope that it's specific enough to stay. If not, I'll close it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started on a project this weekend, and some (most) cuts on the table saw did not go as well as I had hoped. The edges show burning, the cuts aren't straight or true, the wood didn't feed smoothly, and I could feel the table saw tipping a bit towards the end of a cut. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was cutting 1/2&quot; and 3/4&quot; plywood (blondewood from Lowes), had Lowes make a few cuts to get it into more easily-managed sized pieces, and had my father-in-law helping to wrangle the wood during the cut. I ripped a 1/2&quot; off a 76&quot; long, 40&quot; wide piece of 1/2&quot; plywood, and cut a 40&quot;x56&quot; piece of 3/4&quot; down to 35 1/2&quot;x37 1/16&quot;. My tablesaw is a 10&quot; &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00LRY9DU6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Craftsman Evolv&lt;/a&gt;, which has a ~24&quot;x18&quot; table, with the blade approx 10&quot; from one side and 14&quot; from the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my overall question is: is it poor technique leading to those problems or is my tablesaw not up to the job of ripping down larger pieces of wood? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some related follow up questions: is it just that my blade needs a cleaning or sharpening? Or maybe I need a different blade (I'm using the stock 24T blade it came with)? Should I not even use the tablesaw for breaking down plywood, but a circular saw instead (I had similar burning problems previously with my circular saw)? I suspect that the tabletop is just too small to work with big pieces of wood, but short of buying more wood to try it, I'm not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastActivityDate="2016-09-06T13:05:39.640" Title="Bad technique vs inadequate equipment for beginner woodworker" Tags="|technique|table-saw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4602" CreationDate="2016-09-06T03:27:07.127" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although I have not seen your tablesaw, I have used other portable contractor saws and they tend to have several problems.  First the fence is not substantial and may have some give when the wood piece applies pressure against it. The fence is also very short and the sheet can easily get off track against the fence. It is also possible that the fence and the blade are not fully parallel and the wood can bind a bit as it is moved passed the blade.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition the table top is very small relative to the plywood.  I use a table extension to support the full width and run-off length of the plywood I cut and have clamp on legs that attach to the fence guide to provide support on the front of the table.  The only force I apply to a piece I am cutting is to push it through the blade with a light pressure to keep the plywood against the fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, it is very difficult for anyone to cut plywood that large on a such a small table.  to make the cut you must 1) provide much more level support before and after the blade position, 2) verify the blade is parallel to the fence, 3) make sure the fence is secure, 4) provide a fence extension by adding a longer board securely clamped to the fence to provide a longer guide surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-09-06T03:27:07.127" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4602" CreationDate="2016-09-06T13:05:39.640" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a similar table saw and have done a few things to get better results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, get a better blade.  A sharp blade will cut faster, a faster cut means the wood can move through the area where the blade is rubbing on it quicker, which means the wood will heat up less and lead to less burning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, find something, &lt;em&gt;anything&lt;/em&gt; that will help you support those large pieces.  I have used a stack of scrap wood on a nearby picnic table to build up something close to the height of the wood on the out-feed side, this will help you to concentrate on the wood as it goes through the blade.  I understand if you don't want to invest in the time/space to make/use a dedicated infeed/outfeed table, but a roller stand (folding legs, roller on top) is a good helper.  Also, learn to think with both sides of the wood.  If you can only set the rip fence out a foot but want a 18 inch wide panel and your board is 20 inches wide, set the rip fence to 2 inches and rip off the waste with the part you want to keep on the far side of the blade to the rip fence.  While not as nice, this trick has saved me a time or three.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, and this was the big one for me, cheap tools have a problem in that they are not built to the same tolerances as more expensive tools.  To that end, you need to spend a bit more time calibrating and dialing them in.  On my table saw, I need to reset the blade angle every 3-4 cuts, or it will slip from 90 degrees to the table to maybe 85 or so.  Also when setting up the rip fence, I have to check that the distance is the same at the beginning and the end of the blade.  I also typically do this using the same tooth to make absolutely sure.  Another issue is that the miter gauge is ok, but does have a tiny bit of play in it.  As a result it needs to be squared up every few cuts (when I have the square in my hand already to re-position the blade angle).  Finally, after a blade change, I run the saw for a minute or so with a sacrificial reference edge close to the blade to make sure the blade does not wobble.  I have looked at the uber-fancy ones at various stores when killing time/dreaming, and from what I see, it has none of these issued.  The rip fence and miter guages slide easily in their slots, but not enough to have any play in them.  The mechanism that handles the blade height and blade angle are two separate controls (changing height ALWAYS skews my blade angle a bit), and are built much more solidly, so they don't wobble on their stand nearly as much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="432" LastActivityDate="2016-09-06T13:05:39.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4605" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-06T19:20:08.700" Score="3" ViewCount="232" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm clearing my mothers basement out and came across these two items. They look like old wood working tools / templates to me so I thought I would ask you guys. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2prgI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2prgI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;mystery object&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2666" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2016-09-07T03:04:19.110" LastActivityDate="2016-09-07T03:04:19.110" Title="What are these profiled wooden objects with brass end caps?" Tags="|hand-tools|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4606" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-06T21:22:02.220" Score="0" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;completely new woodworker and I wanted to make the object shown on the website and video below, without power tools, I understand that chisels can be used but can someone explain me how and which chisels to use? And alternatives? Also what would be a good set of chisels for a beginner and this project? Also I plan to use 2x4s for this is it alright?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; [1]: http://www.oneprojectcloser.com/how-to-make-a-wooden-business-card-case/&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://woodworking.formeremortals.net/2015/11/wood-gift-card-holders/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://woodworking.formeremortals.net/2015/11/wood-gift-card-holders/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2668" LastActivityDate="2016-09-07T01:38:06.787" Title="Make a gift card holder with no power tools" Tags="|hand-tools|chisel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2016-09-07T02:48:43.083" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4606" CreationDate="2016-09-06T23:24:09.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are starting with a 2x4, the first step is going to be to slice off the thin pieces that serve as the faces of the card holder. Saw and patience; it may take repeated tries to get a straight cut that is thin enough. Note that you want to cut these pieces with the grain (along the length of the 2x4), since they will have essentially no strength if you cut them the other way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as carving the recess with a chisel: Whether that works or not is going to depend on your skill with the chisel. Remember to chisel the edges first --at least to the point of making a firm vertical cut -- so chips break off at that point rather than tearing out the raised sides of the recess. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More work than I would want to do, but at worst you should get better at handling -- and sharpening -- your tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-09-06T23:24:09.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4601" CreationDate="2016-09-07T01:31:44.947" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used forstner bits where the the center spurs are removable for (presumably) just this sort of job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/tool-guide/product-finder/mlcs-forstner-bits.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.finewoodworking.com/tool-guide/product-finder/mlcs-forstner-bits.aspx&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fine-tools.com/staketen-bormax.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.fine-tools.com/staketen-bormax.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would start the hole with the spur in place, and then remove it once the hole is established. You will definitely need a drill press for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="282" LastActivityDate="2016-09-07T01:31:44.947" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4606" CreationDate="2016-09-07T01:38:06.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can see doing this with four hand tools.  A bench plane, router plane, chisel, and saw.  You'll also need a good way to hold the wood in place while you work on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bench plane should be able to take fine shavings.  Ideally a smoothing plane, but a jack plane or even a block plane should work fine.  The saw should be a rip saw, preferably something with a thin plate, like a tenon saw.  You could get away with a regular panel saw or a cheapo miter saw, but you'll need to increase your tolerances and do more work with the plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The steps are basically the same as shown in the video, with the chisel and router plane standing in for the router table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1)  Get your 2x4 down to the final width and length you want for the card holder.  Find a section of 2x4 that has no knots, and use that.  So you'll have a block of wood about 3 inches long, maybe 2.5 inches wide, and 1.5 inches thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2)  Use the plane to flatten and smooth one wide face of the block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3)  Mark the three edges of the recess you want to make to hold the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4)  Use the chisel to cut into the one mark that goes across the grain.  Make sure you don't cut too deep.  You can use a marker on the back of your chisel to mark the depth of cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5)  Use the router plane to cut the recess to a uniform depth.  You could do this with a chisel in theory, but a router plane is the right tool for the job.  If you do use the chisel, use a mallet to make shallow cross-grain cuts, walking the chisel away from the cut line you made in step 4.  After the recess has been roughed out, push the chisel straight in from the open side of the recess.  Make sure the chisel is sharp and be careful not to blow out the closed side of the recess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6)  Use the saw to slice off the recess you have created.   (basically the sides and back of the card holder).  Leave extra thickness so you can correct saw mistakes with the plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7)  Use the plane to clean up the back side of the piece you just made.  It will be a little tricky to hold this thin piece in place while planing.  Sandpaper might be a better bet for this step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8)  Plane the face of the block nice and smooth again.  This surface will be an outer face of the card holder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;9)  Use the saw to slice off the back of the card holder.  The sawn surface will face to the inside of the card holder, so it doesn't have to be super-nice, but you should at least sand down the areas that will be glued.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10) Glue it together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2016-09-07T01:38:06.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4605" CreationDate="2016-09-07T02:17:31.687" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is an antique Beech Wood &amp;amp; Brass Sash template. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short they were/are used as a template for creating (miter/coping) the framing around windows where glaze is used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can read more here. &lt;a href=&quot;http://hackneytools.com/2013/08/how-to-use-sash-templates-or-templets/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://hackneytools.com/2013/08/how-to-use-sash-templates-or-templets/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fldNf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fldNf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2650" LastEditorUserId="2650" LastEditDate="2016-09-07T02:58:50.980" LastActivityDate="2016-09-07T02:58:50.980" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4586" CreationDate="2016-09-07T13:08:59.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not a sagulator calculation. It is intended for box beams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Weight load as follows:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;8ft span : 12in width : 2x4 Douglas Fir : 40lb psf live load : 20lb psf dead load&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Range (dependent of weight distribution) &#xA;Maximum moment, Mmax: 427-480 (ft:lb)&#xA;Maximum shear force, Vmax: 120-240 (lb)&#xA;Nailing pattern: 5in on center&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If doubling plywood, glue and nailing should be spaced no closer than 2in from lower layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT - HOW I CAME UP WITH VALUES:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I was a General B Contractor and  I have an app that calculates the formula   based on materials(plywood and 2x?) used, what type of live and dead loads required, span length, width and returns the strength values of Mmax and Vmax based on various 2x? and nailing patterns. I based it on his 12mm plywood, 2x? douglas fir, with a live load of 40lb psf and 20lb psf dead load. The range is based on weight distribution whether evenly distributed or in one spot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2650" LastEditorUserId="2650" LastEditDate="2016-09-08T02:07:27.930" LastActivityDate="2016-09-08T02:07:27.930" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4616" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4618" CreationDate="2016-09-07T16:23:57.330" Score="4" ViewCount="1223" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are different types of saw blades (e.g., rip, cross-cut, combo - based on number of teeth, edge, hook angle, etc) of saw blades for different types of cuts (rip, cross-cut, etc). How effective are these blades for each of the cuts? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a related &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/307/what-is-the-difference-between-a-rip-cut-and-a-cross-cut&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt; which gets into the difference between a rip and cross cut, but I'm more interested in the practicality of using a cross-cut blade for a rip cut, for instance, or how effective a combination blade is when cutting plywood. That question touches on this subject, but really only for a rip blade on a cross cut (which is bad). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of clean-up or finishing work can be expected from each combination of cut and blade? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To keep this question more focused, let's look at &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Three types of cuts&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rip cut&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cross cut&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cut in plywood&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Four types of blades&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00008WQ2V&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rip blade&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RvOxN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RvOxN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rip blade&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00008WQ30&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cross cut blade&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KxWBn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KxWBn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cross cut blade&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00008WQ2X&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;General purpose blade&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RwMeP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RwMeP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;general purpose&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00008WQ2Z&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Combination blade&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hNWFv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hNWFv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;combo blade&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Links and images are provided as examples only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T13:58:45.483" Title="How effective are different types of saw blades for various cuts and woods?" Tags="|technique|saw-blade|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4616" CreationDate="2016-09-07T21:51:57.650" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many more types of blade than you're listing here. For example, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1236/how-do-i-look-for-a-table-saw-blade-with-non-angled-teeth/1238#1238&quot;&gt;grind angle of the teeth&lt;/a&gt; can make a big difference. This is different from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2016/what-is-the-hook-angle-on-a-saw-blade&quot;&gt;hook angle&lt;/a&gt;. So instead of answering for the specific combinations, which would be hard to do anyway, I'm going to try to be general. I'm also going to assume we're talking about sharp, clean blades. Any blade that is dull or caked with resin is going to cut worse than the same blade sharp and clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The short answer is, &lt;strong&gt;using any blade for the cut it is designed for is going to give the best result.&lt;/strong&gt; Blades designed for a specific cut will do better for that cut than other blades. General purpose blades designed to make several kinds of cuts will not make as clean a cut as a blade designed specifically for a given cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, blades with more teeth tend to produce cleaner cuts than blades with fewer teeth. But more teeth means fewer and smaller gullets -- the gaps between the teeth -- which means they clean chips from the kerf slower. If the cut you are making produces lots of chips, or lots of bigger chips, the blade is more likely to bind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rip cuts produce larger chips, which means you'll get a cleaner cut using a blade with larger gullets. If you try to make a rip cut with a 10&quot; 80 tooth blade, the blade will probably bind. If you try to go slower to prevent the binding, you're likely to be moving slowly enough that you'll scorch the wood. Note that what actually happens will depend on the depth of the intended cut, too. I can't tell you at what depth you'll move from being okay, to scorching, to binding. I can tell you from personal experience and being lazy about blade changes that rip cuts with blades not designed for it just don't feel right. You can feel the saw working much harder than it should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you get to the other end, cross cuts and plywood cuts with a rip blade, you'll find the saw cuts okay, but leaves rough cuts. If you're trying to cut a nicer veneered plywood, you'll find the veneer tears. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-09-07T21:51:57.650" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4616" CreationDate="2016-09-08T04:36:23.437" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems to me your question is really, &quot;what will happen if I don't use the recommended type of blade for a given application?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply put:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you use a blade with too many (smaller) teeth and consequently shallower gullets, the gullets will not be able to carry away enough material and will clog, resulting in burning and possibly a wandering cut, as well as possibly binding depending on the depth of your cut and power of your saw's motor.  If the blade binds and the motor does not stall, there is a good chance you will experience kickback.  A workaround for this, in case you really need to get the job done with the wrong blade, is to make the cut in several shallow passes and/or using a very slow feed speed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you use a blade with too few (larger) teeth and consequently deeper gullets, you will get a more jagged cut when cutting perpendicular to the grain, with chipout at the cut line which will be evident when crosscutting and when cutting plywood.  Using a rip blade on plywood can produce an extremely splintered edge.  There are some techniques you can use to minimize these effects, such as scoring or taping the cut line before making the cut, or putting a piece of sacrificial material on the side where the blade exits (e.g., on the top when using a circular saw or on the bottom when using a table saw).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Combination or general-purpose blades try to find a happy medium, and will work more or less well enough on rip cuts, crosscuts, and plywood; however, they will not produce as clean a cut in plywood or crosscutting applications as a more specialized blade, and they will not work as fast as a rip blade on rip cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you only have 1 blade, it should be a combination or general-purpose blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although your examples and the examples I've given focus on circular-shaped blades, the same applies to any blade, including bandsaw blades and handsaws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2016-09-08T17:48:46.777" LastActivityDate="2016-09-08T17:48:46.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4620" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4621" CreationDate="2016-09-08T23:04:16.813" Score="6" ViewCount="787" Body="&lt;p&gt;To give some context: my cheap, £10 tenon saw that I've used for nearly everything for the last 2 or 3 years is showing signs of becoming dull. As it's the usual hardpoint type, I have read that it can't be re-sharpened, so I have to buy a new one. I am considering whether to buy another of the same kind of non-resharpenable saw, or whether to buy one that can be resharpened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand the trade-off is that the re-sharpenable kind will be made of softer steel and so will need to be sharpened several times in the lifetime of one &quot;disposable&quot; saw. For me, one of the deciding factors in whether that trade-off is worth it is how difficult the re-sharpening process is. I have read descriptions of how to do it and it looks difficult but doable to learn to sharpen one saw tooth. But there are a lot of teeth and I haven't seen any mention of how long the whole process takes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I may have other questions on the subject of saw selection but for now, to prevent this becoming too broad, let's stick to the question of how long the re-sharpening process takes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2258" LastActivityDate="2016-09-10T05:38:21.617" Title="How long does it take to sharpen a saw blade?" Tags="|sharpening|hand-saw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4620" CreationDate="2016-09-09T01:09:48.147" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a saw that has not been abused (ie missing teeth or other non standard use problems) you will only need to  run the file across the teeth several times per  tooth to restore the edge and points.  Going too deep will only cause more problems.  So assuming that it takes, say 5 to 10 seconds to file and examine each tooth, you can do the math base upon the teeth per inch and the length of the blade.  Don't forget to add time to clamp the blade, sip your beverage and admire your handiwork. I have never found the time needed to sharpen a blade to be an obstacle.  I use that time to think about what project I want to do  next and how the shop really needs a deep cleaning (if only I didn't have to sharpen this blade instead).  Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW I have taken several old second hand saws and restored them.  I get more pleasure out of using them than a new, cheap, disposable saw.  (I think I have bonded with them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2016-09-09T01:14:50.460" LastActivityDate="2016-09-09T01:14:50.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4622" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4623" CreationDate="2016-09-09T02:25:45.410" Score="3" ViewCount="320" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Craftsman router, model 320.17541, and a Craftsman router table, model 320.28180. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manual for the router indicates that the max diameter for a bit should be 1 1/4&quot;, due to the size of the opening in the sub-base. The manual for the table indicates to remove the sub-base from the router to install it in the table. Is the max size bit then just limited by the size of the opening in the table?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a somewhat related note, the lack of a sub-base means that a lot of dust falls into the motor housing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will add links later, as I'm on mobile right now&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastActivityDate="2016-09-09T04:02:17.707" Title="Max bit size in Craftsman fixed-base router" Tags="|router|router-bit|router-table|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4622" CreationDate="2016-09-09T04:02:17.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other limit on the maximum size of the bit is whether you have speed control, either built in or as an external controller. Speed at which the outside edge of the bit is travelling for the same RPM is proportional to radius, and it isn't hard to get up to speeds that are unsafe unless you can reduce them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, that same effect means more torque back on the router; you may need to take a much shallower cut or move to a more powerful router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-09-09T04:02:17.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4620" CreationDate="2016-09-09T06:09:14.573" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I understand the trade-off is that the re-sharpenable kind will be made of softer steel and so will need to be sharpened several times in the lifetime of one &quot;disposable&quot; saw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Revise &quot;several times&quot; to &quot;&lt;em&gt;many&lt;/em&gt; times&quot;. You can sharpen a resharpenable saw as needed for years, &lt;em&gt;decades&lt;/em&gt; even, depending entirely on the use to which it is put. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Figure 50 resharpens at minimum and quite likely a lot more if you adopt the &lt;em&gt;little and often&lt;/em&gt; practice rather than waiting for the teeth to be quite blunt and then doing a full resharpen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For me, one of the deciding factors in whether that trade-off is worth it is how difficult the re-sharpening process is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's doable, and for most handtool woodworkers shouldn't pose too great a challenge once you commit yourself to doing it (the hard part is starting out). And we are lucky now to live in the Internet age where you can watch and listen to many experienced saw sharpeners doing the work on video and not just have to try to pick it up from books.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's not to say you can't learn how from books, it's not inherently a complicated process. It's just physically a little challenging, but there are tips and aids that can help with all aspects of it, including teeth spacing and holding a consistent filing angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say it's within the grasp of nearly anyone to sharpen a panel saw with rip teeth, most people to sharpen the same saw crosscut. The challenge comes with smaller teeth and the smaller they are the harder it becomes, purely because of the scale of the work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will of course need some sort of saw vice if you want to do this, although you can make up something quickly with two boards held in a vice it's better to have a purpose-made tool, whether bought or made. A saw vice raises the work to a more comfortable working height* and is quicker and easier to adjust for longer saws as you work your along the length of the blade in stages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*If you use two boards in a vice you should definitely sit on a low chair or stool when filing to bring your eyes more in line with the saw file (helps with accuracy and your back will thank you).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As it's the usual hardpoint type, I have read that it can't be re-sharpened, so I have to buy a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This perception is not entirely accurate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can, in theory at least, sharpen hardened teeth but because they're so hard there's a risk of fractures or breaking off of tips or whole teeth. However with the right setup (e.g. the right grinding head on an angle grinder) you can buzz away all the hardened teeth and then work with the steel behind them, just as though you were re-toothing a normal saw (this is quite commonly done on old saws if the existing tooth line is heavily damaged by rust, or so irregular from many inept sharpenings that the teeth are unsalvageable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-09-10T05:38:21.617" LastActivityDate="2016-09-10T05:38:21.617" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4601" CreationDate="2016-09-09T13:23:01.633" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;These were all great suggestions, thank you! I wound up getting &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01F8US32I&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this table top surface planing bottom cleaning router bit&lt;/a&gt; which has been great. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Make sure it's really clamped down tightly.&#xA;2) Take small bites, both to keep the bit cool and to clear out debris.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This worked so great I haven't tried filing down a forstner bit - when I do I'll report back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2664" LastActivityDate="2016-09-09T13:23:01.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4626" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-09T16:40:39.210" Score="8" ViewCount="723" Body="&lt;p&gt;this is my first time going from log to bowl, so please forgive me if I've made any really dumb mistakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I felled a birch and a beech tree (I'm in New England) and cut them into ~4-foot long sections to dry for a year or two before I put them on the lathe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made a double boiler and melted down some wax in order to seal the cut edges, and I think that part went OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, a month after being sealed and left in my cool, dry barn for curing, I checked in and noticed many little cones of sawdust under the logs (see photo).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YemwI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YemwI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;tiny holes and sawdust pile&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1WI1c.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1WI1c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't mind wormholes or other small perforations in my finished products, but I certainly don't want to feed or shelter whatever pest this is if I don't have to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to keep the wood food-safe, if possible, as I mostly make kitchen bowls and muddlers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: what is the best way to eliminate this pest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any help you can provide!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AKA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="292" LastEditorUserId="292" LastEditDate="2016-09-09T17:16:13.047" LastActivityDate="2021-02-05T15:50:10.370" Title="What is this pest living in my drying lumber and how do I eliminate it?" Tags="|wood-drying|insects|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4626" CreationDate="2016-09-09T20:28:17.323" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There aren't a lot of pests that eat wood. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.livingwithbugs.com/damage_tb.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This page&lt;/a&gt; provides a pretty good list, including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Carpenter ants&lt;/strong&gt; (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.livingwithbugs.com/carpenter_ants.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; for id and control details) are large black ants that nest in structures causing damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dry-rot fungi&lt;/strong&gt; (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.livingwithbugs.com/dry-rot.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; for id and control info) attack and weaken wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Powderpost beetle&lt;/strong&gt; (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.livingwithbugs.com/powderpost_beetles.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; for id and control info) larvae bore in and damage hardwoods and softwoods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Carpenter bees&lt;/strong&gt; (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.livingwithbugs.com/carpenter_bee.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; for id and control details) are large wood-boring bees that resemble bumble bees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Termites&lt;/strong&gt; (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.livingwithbugs.com/termite.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; for id and control info)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your pictures rule out fungus. In my mind the lack of ants running around suggests it may not be carpenter ants, but I don't know. And termites in my experience leave finer sawdust than in your picture, usually mixed with droppings. If you could spot the actual insect it would be very helpful; look for bees, ants, beetles hanging around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rentokil.com/insects/wood-boring-insects/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wood wasps, certain types of moths, and other types of beetles&lt;/a&gt; are also possibilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also be interested in &lt;a href=&quot;http://learningstore.uwex.edu/assets/pdfs/A3093.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this write-up&lt;/a&gt;. Of particular interest is the section on wood borers, which &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; apply to your situation depending on the insect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ss4eT.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ss4eT.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2016-09-09T20:33:30.147" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4626" CreationDate="2016-09-09T21:55:24.160" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like powder post beetles to me. If that is the case you have some nice firewood. Sorry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2680" LastActivityDate="2016-09-09T21:55:24.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4629" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4630" CreationDate="2016-09-10T04:51:28.987" Score="3" ViewCount="377" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know what they do, cutting the wood and can be used for fancy cutting and stuff. But I do not know which one to get for starters. Which would get the most use out of? Do I &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; to get both? What are the big differences for each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-09-10T13:47:21.087" LastActivityDate="2016-09-10T13:47:21.087" Title="Scroll or Band saw?" Tags="|power-tools|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4629" CreationDate="2016-09-10T06:28:11.720" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously both of these saws can cut curves but past that they have little in common. For general cutting of wood no question you'd get more from a bandsaw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bandsaw&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The bandsaw is, in the opinion of quite a few owners, the single most useful power saw to own. It's a good contender for the only power saw to own if you had to pick just one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may not be the ideal starter saw (power saw) but I don't know what I'd vote for instead. Certainly not the table saw, even if only because it's the most dangerous power tool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scroll saw&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A scroll saw is basically good for scrollwork, it excels at it because it's a specialist tool but it's of little use for anything else. All the joint-forming cuts that can be done on a scroll saw are better cut using something else for the required accuracy and smoothness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you only need to cut intricate curves periodically it is hard to justify the cost of a scroll saw (both monetary and the cost in space it takes up). Although there are some inexpensive models available buying a coping saw and a fret saw, along with packs of blades for both, should cost less and they are perfectly capable of doing the same work, just much more slowly obviously. And in addition they can do a few tasks that you couldn't do on the scroll saw so they're more versatile. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The diameter of the cuts achievable with each saw are not generally comparable. With a scroll saw you can do small, intricate in-and-out curves, as fine as anything required in woodwork. A bandsaw can generally only do relatively large-diameter curves, the width of the blade determining the radius of cut:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AbIL1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AbIL1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;How bandsaw blade affects cut radius&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the narrower the blade fitted to a bandsaw the less useful it is for general-purpose cutting because that blade is one specialised for curves. And the wider the blade fitted the better the bandsaw becomes for doing straight cuts (very wide blades being particularly good for deep resawing work).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-09-10T06:28:11.720" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4631" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4635" CreationDate="2016-09-10T14:39:16.280" Score="5" ViewCount="11683" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put a liquid deglosser on about half of our kitchen cabinet doors, and now I realized what a mistake that was, and want to remove it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, the only effective means of getting it off have been a heat gun and scraper, but it's taking forever. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some trick that I can use to quickly and thoroughly get rid of the deglosser residue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2684" LastEditorUserId="763" LastEditDate="2019-03-09T23:54:57.797" LastActivityDate="2019-03-09T23:54:57.797" Title="How do I remove a liquid deglosser from my cabinet doors?" Tags="|cabinetry|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4632" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-10T16:50:41.357" Score="1" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just scored an oak&amp;amp;cane rocker, it's weathered and has some photosynthesis on the cane. How can I protect the cane while using BLO on the wood? or is it ok to use it on the cane? (which is in need of repair or complete replacing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2686" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T07:40:05.827" Title="Rocker restoration" Tags="|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4631" CreationDate="2016-09-10T22:34:34.350" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are now in the process of removing the old finish which is exactly what you were attempting to avoid by employing the liquid sander/deglosser..  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manufacturers of the deglosser (note it is not deglazer, a product used for leather preparation) specify to use it for preparing a previously finished surface for refinishing with no need to remove any residue - apply deglosser, let it dry, apply new finish. The deglosser is intended to make the new finish better adhere to the old finish.  It's understandable how one would be confused, given that the brand that you selected also makes a liquid paint remover/stripper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were in the same situation (i.e. half way through stripping with a heat gun) I would grit my teeth and finish stripping.  True, it's going take time, but you have a chance of completing the task with a uniform surface preparation and uniform application of finish for all of the cabinets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-09-10T22:47:28.273" LastActivityDate="2016-09-10T22:47:28.273" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4632" CreationDate="2016-09-11T07:19:42.360" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;it's weathered and has some photosynthesis on the cane. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is moss growth you should remove it before continuing. A putty knife, small wire brush and toothbrushes are good tools to get rid of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;or is it ok to use [BLO] on the cane? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes you can oil the cane the same as the wood. Cane is a woody material that, just like bamboo, reacts to oiling pretty much exactly like wood does. However, I think you should be careful about choosing to do so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is quite traditional not to use finish on the cane itself, but to finish the frame and then do the caning work. Where a finish was applied to the whole chair it would generally have been a film finish (shellac or varnish or lacquer). If previously your piece was varnished most guides would suggest you strip back to bare wood and refinish from scratch, It's possible to revive and add new finish to both shellac and lacquer since they remain soluble in their original solvents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to rethink oiling this if the whole chair or the oak frame was previously finished with any of the film finishes since at best you'll give a temporary 'lift' to the appearance. Over time the oiled portions will darken the wood much more than where the film finish remains, so they'll stand out quite noticeably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want the trouble of going back to bare wood it's much better to use wax than an oil. Common furniture paste wax (e.g. Johnson's) is a perfect choice, no need to get anything more sophisticated than that. You can also make your own, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1476/table-saw-top-treatment/1484#1484&quot;&gt;see previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-09-11T07:19:42.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2196" CreationDate="2016-09-11T19:54:25.783" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have mounted my PC 890 plunge router in my router table and have removed the springs. This makes bit height adjustments very easy. Bob and Rich Rosenthal used this set up in their shows in late 90's. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2690" LastActivityDate="2016-09-11T19:54:25.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4640" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4641" CreationDate="2016-09-12T16:21:51.733" Score="5" ViewCount="766" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that fully threaded screws are commonly used to join wood, but I cannot see how any clamping force can be attained. Surely screws with some plain shank should be used so that the thread is only effective in one of the pieces. Am I just old-fashioned?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2691" LastActivityDate="2020-10-21T14:12:38.063" Title="Fully threaded screws" Tags="|screws|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4640" CreationDate="2016-09-12T16:33:56.120" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do two things to workaround the issue that comes up using fully threaded screws (that it is difficult to fully clamp the pieces together and they can potentially be pushed apart):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clamp the pieces before screwing - this will ensure they are held tightly together.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Drill a larger pilot hole in the top piece. This prevents the screw from threading in the top piece and ends up working the same way that screws with a plain shank near the top work.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastEditorUserId="11" LastEditDate="2016-09-12T21:46:17.697" LastActivityDate="2016-09-12T21:46:17.697" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4642" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4643" CreationDate="2016-09-12T21:00:15.477" Score="2" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have no experience in woodworking, and only have a rudimentary equipment, but my well needs a new covering, and it would be nice to have some advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The parameters (just to have an idea):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;diameter of the well (the actual hole): 95 cm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;height of the brick side of the well: 1 m&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;width of the brick side of the well: 30cm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How could I join wooden slats together to build a circular covering? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It should be safe and stable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess it would be a good idea to add some mechanism to prevent the covering slipping away, but this shouldn't be too difficult, and can be done independently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The slats shouldn't fit together too firmly, in order to let the well breath a bit - so no gluing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I appreciate any advice!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a photo to have a better idea (though this well is larger, so the technique is not necessarily the same I guess):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://etc.usf.edu/clippix/pix/black-cannonballs-stacked-on-a-wooden-covering-of-a-well_medium.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;wooden covering of a well&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2692" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:50.593" LastActivityDate="2016-09-14T00:45:33.720" Title="Wooden covering of a well" Tags="|joinery|design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4642" CreationDate="2016-09-13T07:48:33.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How could I join wooden slats together to build a circular covering? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Numerous ways this can be done, including simple butt joints (the straight sides of the boards glued together), pocket screws (with glue or without), screwing or nailing separate boards to boards running at 90° underneath or on top. Last but not least, as in the photo you included, separate boards joined somehow to a framework underneath — much like you'd build the top of an oval farmhouse table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these are more difficult to do properly than you might expect without the right selection of tools or experience in using them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So instead I'd suggest you buy a quality piece of exterior plywood (e.g. marine-grade). This will make the job infinitely easier and faster for a novice to complete, the cutting to size might even be done for free where you buy the plywood. 12mm plywood would probably be strong enough but 18mm ply is not much more expensive usually and obviously stronger and heavier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you would prefer to use solid wood and would like to build something that will last well exposed to weather you should choose softwood that has been treated with preservative (deck boards would be an excellent choice) or a wood that is naturally resistant to rot, which would usually be relatively expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I guess it would be a good idea to add some mechanism to prevent the covering slipping away, but this shouldn't be too difficult, and can be done independently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Small blocks of wood glued, nailed or screwed near the edge underneath would be enough for it to 'register' against the inside edge of the hole, while still allowing it to be lifted off and placed into position with ease. Only three blocks would be enough for a good registered fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember the cover doesn't have to be circular just because the well is, it can be square if you want to save time and effort. If the projecting corners being sharp are a safety concern they can be rounded slightly but there's no reason the cover &lt;em&gt;has&lt;/em&gt; to match the shape of the well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The slats shouldn't fit together too firmly, in order to let the well breath a bit - so no gluing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think you need to worry about this as the fit of the cover to the top of the brick wall won't even be close to airtight. But if necessary you could drill holes in the board to provide ventilation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-09-13T07:48:33.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4640" CreationDate="2016-09-13T07:58:39.690" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're right to be concerned about the proliferation of modern &quot;wood screws&quot; that are fully-threaded as the design of traditional wood screws was quite deliberate to provide holding power into the piece of wood beneath without gripping the piece of wood on top (leading to a problem called &lt;em&gt;bridging&lt;/em&gt;, where the screw's grip on both pieces doesn't allow any gap to close up).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you can still make use of them in the normal manner by drilling appropriate holes in each piece just as was done traditionally. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See previous Answer that covers clearance holes and pilot holes: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2708/are-there-specific-types-of-screws-i-should-use-for-woodworking/2714#2714&quot;&gt;Are there specific types of screws I should use for woodworking?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-09-13T07:58:39.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1500" CreationDate="2016-09-14T15:56:56.057" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried to straighten a wood screen door with steam with very little improvement. I then forceably  bent it well past straight, 1 1/2 inches in center of  the 7 foot span. Then saturated it with linseed oil and carefully heated the board with a propane torch. &#xA;It is holding it's shape after a week. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2700" LastActivityDate="2016-09-14T15:56:56.057" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4647" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4649" CreationDate="2016-09-15T02:12:18.287" Score="11" ViewCount="1768" Body="&lt;p&gt;ARGGH. A plumbing leak managed to drip directly on top of my brand-new table saw, in exactly the right place to ruin the user's manual -- but worse, it seriously rusted a square foot or so of the otherwise pristine polished cast-iron top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right between blade and fence, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Is there any good way to recover from this? Or should I give up and order a replacement top?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) And is there any good way to reduce this risk in the future? Should I have kept a tarp over the beast? Unfortunately this &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; the best location in the shop for it, but...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-09-17T19:37:40.990" Title="Recovering from a rusted table saw top -- and protecting it in future" Tags="|table-saw|tool-repair|rust|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4647" CreationDate="2016-09-15T02:47:32.100" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hopefully the rust has not been developing for too long before discovery. A while ago I discovered some rust on my table top due to a cup of water carelessly left on the the top and knocked over by the cat.  I had not been in the shop for several weeks and the water had dried leaving a large rust spot.  I used a buffer with a make-shift steel wool pad to clean up the surface. One small area required a 320 grit sanding block to finish up.  In a separate case restoring some cast iron planes I used a liquid rust remover  to deactivate some rust in pitted areas. The rust remover does result in a tarnished appearance, but over time with additional buffing it has come back to a uniform appearance. In all cases I now use a paste wax to protect the surfaces and reduce exposure to humidity etc. that might encourage the rust to return.  I renew the wax several times a year.  I also never put liquids on my tops now!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-09-15T02:47:32.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4647" CreationDate="2016-09-15T08:32:49.670" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there any good way to recover from this? Or should I give up and order a replacement top?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt you'd need to order a replacement top, no matter how bad the rust seems to you compared to the pristine surface around it. People have restored Craigslist finds where the rust was old and far more pervasive than what you're facing...... and the after photos sort of speak for themselves I think:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4GgDY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4GgDY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rusty power tools before &amp;amp; after&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So no need to panic :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the surface rust is gone discolouration may bother you since the saw was so new, but the main practical issue is of course pitting. It's a safe bet that the rust won't have progressed far enough that any pitting left behind is a dealbreaker based on all the rusty garage/barn queens posted online that have been brought back to working condition!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Removing the rust&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So the main way to deal with this is abrasive methods. You could take the bed off to immerse it in a rust-removal soak or to do electrolysis but it's very unlikely to be necessary to go to that extreme.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the loose surface rust first by scrubbing with coarse steel wool or a Scotch-Brite, lubricated with something oily — mineral spirits, WD-40 or some oil (baby oil is just fine if it's all you have). Then wipe clean and assess the bed surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there's some minor pitting you could do some sanding &lt;em&gt;but only if you want to&lt;/em&gt;, once the active rust is gone you can pretty much leave it if the slight discolouration doesn't bother you. Some pitting usually doesn't affect function in any way that you'd notice so it's not actually vital to remove it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So after tackling the surface rust you can apply a fresh coat of your usual waxy or oily rust-preventative and put the saw straight back to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do want to sand, first response &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.finewoodworking.com/fine-woodworking-knots/power-tools-and-machinery/rust-removal-jointer-bed&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;in this thread&lt;/a&gt; on Fine Woodworking's forum is well worth a read to reassure yourself you won't do any harm to the bed of your saw by sanding it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some further reading:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Using Naval Jelly before sanding, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodbin.com/doc/removing-rust-from-a-jointer-bed/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; on Wood Bin.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Some people swear by solid rubber abrasive blocks such as Sandflex, here's John Hintz talking about them on NewWoodworker.com, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.newwoodworker.com/basic/refubcstirn.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Resurfacing Cast Iron Tables&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Three rust removal methods compared by Wood Magazine, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/outfitting-woodworking-shop/bust-rust/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;And is there any good way to reduce this risk in the future? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A very thorough waxing might have helped, but almost no rust-proofers are intended to stave off rust when there's standing liquid water, they're mainly to resist water vapour. This is at &lt;em&gt;working thickness&lt;/em&gt;, many things (including common paste wax and petroleum jelly) in a thick layer would have allowed the table saw to come through this unscathed but they're never normally applied at that level of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-09-15T08:32:49.670" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4650" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4654" CreationDate="2016-09-15T09:26:44.067" Score="5" ViewCount="1680" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found &lt;a href=&quot;http://puzzlewillbeplayed.com/about.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; really interesting site about wooden puzzles. It offers puzzle designers for free and from what I read&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Anyone can reproduce these puzzles for his/her own personal enjoyment...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I'd like to make &lt;a href=&quot;http://puzzlewillbeplayed.com/6BoardBurr/Torture/solution.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; burr puzzle with a scroll saw, but since I'm a newbie, I'd like to know from someone more skilled which kind of wood could be good for this kind of work and which finish guarantees a good user experience (e.g. pieces slide smoothly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2703" LastEditorUserId="2703" LastEditDate="2016-09-15T10:42:51.693" LastActivityDate="2016-09-16T19:57:15.543" Title="Type of Wood to make Burr Puzzles" Tags="|finishing|wood|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4650" CreationDate="2016-09-15T11:29:42.683" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Scroll saws are inherently not that accurate, so I'd say it doesn't really matter what kind of wood you are using. (If you have the means to work accurately enough (0.1mm or less) you might want to use wood that does not warp and shrink/expand with temperature and humidity changes.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to still get a satisfying result, it is a good idea to increase the size of the puzzle, in order to increase the &lt;em&gt;relative&lt;/em&gt; accuracy. (Which is the key for nice burr puzzles. They should not be too tight such that you have to use force to move the pieces, but ideally they certainly should not rattle too much.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I highly recommend first using some scrap/cheap wood, just to make a first &quot;prototype&quot; in order to gain some experience. The puzzle you linked to could easily be made from boards, so you could use a piece plywood. If possible, I'd still recommend cutting the outside of the pieces with a table saw to get a more accurate finish. I also suggest only sanding the pieces where absolutely necessary, as sanding usually results in less accurate and consistent pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally I can recommend the forum on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.puzzle-place.com/wiki/Main_Page&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;puzzle-place.com&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/mechanicalpuzzles/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;reddit.com/r/mechanicalpuzzles&lt;/a&gt; for more information and inspiration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2045" LastActivityDate="2016-09-15T11:29:42.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4650" CreationDate="2016-09-16T03:37:13.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any tight-grained hardwood will work. Maple would be the obvious choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cherry and Walnut are harder and also have better stability in general, if the wood is well prepared. More complex and more expensive than maple, but if handled well, will give a superior result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most advanced option would be hickory. Hickory is very hard and tough which makes it ideal for use in a small, delicate, precision puzzle. The problem is that it is difficult to work and has unpredictable dimensional behavior. I would not attempt hickory for this use unless I had a lot of experience doing woodcarving with it beforehand, not a material for beginners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2016-09-16T03:37:13.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1629" CreationDate="2016-09-16T03:59:02.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Guess what!....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After tinkering with the top pulley - I realized it was wore out.&#xA;Went down to Tractor Supply and found the identical 2.5 pulley/ .5. bore - about 10 bux.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My table saw is working like brand new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The old pulley bore was so worn out it had a about a 16th gap on the shaft. This is why irattled &amp;amp; vibrated  and the pulley often kept working off the shaft during operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;duh.&#xA;Sometimes the easiest fixes really are the best ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2320" LastActivityDate="2016-09-16T03:59:02.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4650" CreationDate="2016-09-16T08:52:43.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;which kind of wood could be good for this kind of work &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have the choice you want a close-grained, hard wood for this sort of thing. Normally that will mean a hardwood, although yew (a softwood) would also fit the bill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many decent possibilities depending on where you're located. Going over my memory of commercial puzzles I've seen in the past, numerous Asian-made ones I think used sheesham. More recently I think I've seen some made from rubber wood, which is neither as hard nor as close-grained but adequate nonetheless. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're in North America maple would probably be ideal, being easy to come by there and not particularly pricey. Some maples are softer than others, hard maple (sugar maple, rock maple) will be tougher as the name suggests, and although this makes it harder to work it may be worth it in the end product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beech would also be excellent if you can find it and birch might work as well. Although it's classed as open-grained I have seen 'executive' puzzles made from black walnut which indicate it can be suitable, and walnut is prized for it workability by woodworkers (being only a little harder than cherry). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;which finish guarantees a good user experience (e.g. pieces slide smoothly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you could get away with many things on something like this, including leaving the wood bare. I'm sure I've handled puzzles in the past which were bare wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Commercially I think most puzzles probably have a spray finish applied, which could be either varnish or lacquer. And with modern finishing moving away from high-VOC products it's likely that some are now finished with a waterbased finish or some kind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My personal choice here would probably be a light coating of shellac, two or three thin coats brushed on. This would not be enough to build up much of a film on the surface but will partially seal it, enough that it won't easily get grubby from handling and slightly reduce any tendency for the pieces to expand/contract or warp with changes in humidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You haven't asked about shaping the pieces, but if high accuracy is important to the functioning of the completed puzzle then I'd give serious thought to cutting the internal notches by hand as though they were mortises. Or alternatively buying a suitable mortising bit for a drill and using it to do the same job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do use a scroll saw you're surely going to need to smooth the sawn faces. For that I would highly recommend filing over sanding. If you don't have any files then glue abrasive paper to strips of hard wood so that it can be used in a similar manner to a file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For sanding the external surfaces bring the wood to the paper and not the paper to the wood. Small pieces are nearly always best sanded this way, with the paper flat on the table (taped down taut or glued in place on a scrap board) and the pieces rubbed over it, rather than attempting to hold the workpiece in one hand and a sanding block in the other and rubbing them together!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You only need to sand up to between 180 and 220 grit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-09-16T08:52:43.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4650" CreationDate="2016-09-16T19:57:15.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A different kind of burr&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Silly me.  I assumed that you were setting out to make a six piece burr puzzle of the type made from six pieces of square cross-section wood - not conducive to construction using a scroll saw.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scroll saw - the perfect choice&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon rereading and actually connecting to your link, I responded with the thought, &quot;perfect for a scroll saw!&quot; or at least I thought, &quot;the selection of scroll saw makes sense!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have access to a table saw, the first step of making six boards 1 unit thick by five by seven units is the place to start.  Carefully mark each board with its appropriate pattern and go to town.  Make sure the gaps are wide enough to fit another piece through, ie a hair larger (not two hairs) than one unit.  If the long cuts are not quite straight the puzzle should still work - just make sure that the openings are one unit plus a hair wide.  If cut you the long openings a little too narrow, then sand or file them as needed.  Also make sure that the corner cuts are square and not slightly rounded. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use Baltic birch&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For type of wood (your question) I would use Baltic birch plywood - it's uniformly thick, has not voids and does not splinter readily.  I would use either 3/8&quot; (9mm) of 1/2' (12 mm).  For finish, either nothing or a quick coat of Danish oil. You might also want to very slightly chamfer all edges with sand paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Or do something entirely different&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were making this puzzle, my first inclination would be to use square cross-section pieces of wood one unit by one unit.  I would then cut the pieces of appropriate lengths (one unit, two units, three units, four units, and seven units) then glue them together.  I know the gluing is going to be a bit tricky, but I would likely make some little jigs to hold the pieces in position while clamping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2016-09-16T19:57:15.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4656" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-16T20:26:11.323" Score="1" ViewCount="342" Body="&lt;p&gt;The original bar and chain that came with the chainsaw had 38cm length, 0.325&quot; pitch, and 1.5mm gauge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I change them with a 45cm length, 0.325&quot; pitch, and &lt;strong&gt;1.3mm&lt;/strong&gt; gauge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the length is within the limits of the chainsaw, but I don't if gauge can be different&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2711" LastActivityDate="2019-10-16T03:20:11.857" Title="Changing bar &amp; chain on Husqvarna chainsaw" Tags="|chain-saw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4656" CreationDate="2016-09-16T23:54:33.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without know the model # I can not give you the exact answer, but this can get you as close as you can with the said info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This shows all compatible sizes for Husqvarna chainsaws&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.baileysonline.com/Pages/Chainsaw-Chain-Cross-Reference-Chart/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.baileysonline.com/Pages/Chainsaw-Chain-Cross-Reference-Chart/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2650" LastActivityDate="2016-09-16T23:54:33.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4658" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-17T05:52:11.330" Score="5" ViewCount="46165" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought (gerton top taple) from IKEA and the instructions require to apply the (behandla treatment oil) &#xA;&quot;Apply a thin coat of BEHANDLA wood treatment oil. Leave the oil to penetrate the wood for about 2 hours. Wipe off surplus oil with a cloth or kitchen paper. During the first week of use the table top should be treated every second day and after that every third day until the surface is saturated (after about 2 months).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I applied it 4 days then I stopped because the wood became a little bit sticky so I left it for few days the I decided to sand it with a sand paper and it's still the same like it's need more sanding.&#xA;I don't know how to solve this. Please help me &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2713" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2018-01-22T13:26:13.417" LastActivityDate="2023-08-14T18:56:42.183" Title="How to solve the behandla problem -- removing or avoiding sticky oil residue" Tags="|oiling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4658" CreationDate="2016-09-17T07:34:21.827" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The surface should not have become sticky, which may be due to not wiping off all the surplus oil as the instructions say to do. You have to be very thorough doing this with any oil or &quot;oil finish&quot; because &lt;em&gt;no oil should remain on the surface&lt;/em&gt;. Any oil that is left will either remain liquid or turn gummy/sticky. None will ever properly harden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that you have the issue this is one of those things where there's no clear course of action, you have a number of options all of which are a bit messy and take a bit of time but don't worry, you will be able to salvage the tabletop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanding to remove the sticky residue on the surface is one way to rectify the problem, although it can use quite a bit of paper because the oil and wood dust can clog it &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; quickly. Scraping with a suitable tool is a much better approach if someone already has experience in using a scraper on wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't mind the smell and the mess it may not be too late to remove excess partially-dried oil with mineral spirits (UK: white spirit) or if you prefer, turpentine. You'll need to use plenty of cloths or paper towels soaked in the solvent to work away at the surface until all trace of the oil has been removed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you have a suitable respirator it would be best to do this outdoors, if you must work indoors do it beside an open window or outside door if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Safety note:&lt;/strong&gt; these wiping cloths represent a potential fire hazard so to be on the safe side either leave them flat on the ground outside to dry off after use, or stuff them into a glass jar partially filled with water and close the lid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you think you've done enough leave the wood to dry off for about 15 minutes to an hour and then run your fingers over it looking for gummy patches. If none remain you've successfully cleaned off all the excess oil from the surface and can resume finishing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you want to continue to use the Behandla the instructions in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2466/applying-oils-over-stains/2469#2469&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt; should be of help in achieving a better result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice to Ikea purchasers would be first not to buy the Behandla oil just because you're in Ikea and they sell something that can be used on wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at what you actually want in your finish for colour, level of protection, odour, drying time etc. then decide based on that what to use. This could be anything, including leaving the wood bare, a soap finish, waxing, oiling, shellac, &quot;Danish oil&quot;, a waterbased finish, varnish, even a pour-on epoxy if you want a super-tough glassy surface (these are listed roughly in ascending order of protection).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-09-17T07:34:21.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4647" CreationDate="2016-09-17T19:37:40.990" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wow. Thanks to both Graphus and Ashlar, for the reassurance that this &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; be fixed and wasn't going to be a crisis -- especially to Graphus, for including the citations showing that even resorting to sandpaper wasn't likely to do significant damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reassured by that, I'm using something halfway between sandpaper and steel wool: 3M's &quot;stripping pads&quot;, which are basically a more-abrasive form of the Scotch-Brite (tm) pad. One of those, working on a surface dampened with WD40, is taking things right down to bright metal again. It's taking off not just surface rust but the places (especially under the soggy manual) where rust raised the surface. Looks like I'm going to be left with with just a few spots of pitting and some water &quot;stain&quot; (not rust, just slight discoloration) to remind me of my mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furniture wax, or Boeshield (or both?), to follow. Waxing tool tops is a Good Idea anyway; it doesn't just protect, it reduces friction and makes the tool easier to use. Waxing the bottoms of planes is also worthwhile for that reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(BTW, the reason they say don't use car wax on tools is only slightly because car wax has some abrasive; the big deal is that it often contains silicone, and silicone on wood has a bad habit of interfering with finishes. You shouldn't pick up &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; from a tool, but it's easier to just avoid the risk.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next high priority for the workshop: Try to modify the basement ceiling so that, if there &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; any water leakage from above, it will tend to flow to and down the walls rather than falling on tools. I've got a few ideas... And consider cutting up some tarps as &quot;dust/drip shields&quot; over the tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-09-17T19:37:40.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1957" CreationDate="2016-09-18T03:39:37.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Surf Wax, or something similar, rub it in, wipe excess, there probably wont be any, done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2719" LastActivityDate="2016-09-18T03:39:37.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4664" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-18T14:32:12.530" Score="2" ViewCount="803" Body="&lt;p&gt;The jambs of an (c 1950?) exterior door I removed have a 3/16&quot; deep groove on the back side near the outside edge.  I'm wondering what the purpose was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3whp6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3whp6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="484" LastActivityDate="2017-02-04T01:26:47.520" Title="door jamb groove?" Tags="|door|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4665" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4733" CreationDate="2016-09-18T18:27:56.570" Score="2" ViewCount="775" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 3/4&quot; plywood which I glued to a big (2.5&quot; x 3.5&quot;) piece of poplar. The edge of the plywood was glued to the short edge of the poplar, offset from the face of the poplar. I used Titebond II glue, and then drove in some pocket screws. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spacer I used didn't work quite right, so I have an uneven reveal along the length of the plywood. I didn't notice until after the glue dried, of course. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I (easily) remove the glue joint so I can redo it? I assume the screws should back out easily enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eta a picture. The plywood is 3/4&quot; from the front of the left leg, but only 1/2&quot; from the front of the right leg. The height of the plywood is about 35&quot;. It's a simple butt joint, no dadoes or anything fancy (my first real woodworking project :/ )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BVHZG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BVHZG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Project&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastEditorUserId="2524" LastEditDate="2016-09-18T23:47:09.187" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T21:13:19.467" Title="Redo glue joint" Tags="|glue|wood-repair|gluing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4666" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4667" CreationDate="2016-09-18T21:03:02.953" Score="5" ViewCount="3776" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm designing/building a bunk bed for my toddler boys. Given that I am working under small constraints in their bedroom, I was thinking about using barrel nuts to piece together the two long sides with the two short sides instead of just nailing or screwing the whole thing together. That way I could build, sand, stain, etc all the pieces outside of the room and then connect the four sides via barrel nuts, simply, inside the room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: are barrel nuts safe to use for such a construction? Would they be equal to, or greater than, nails/screws in terms of strength?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am obviously wanting to build something that is strong enough to be safe for my children, so any answers/suggestions you may have are very much appreciated. Thank you in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AYUfS.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AYUfS.png&quot; alt=&quot;Bunk Bed&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://app.box.com/s/bzo4ft5w1wvnykkzukiio1ksvim4m9t2&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;A Sketchup file of the project&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what I am referring to as a barrel nut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wSNb0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wSNb0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Barrel Nut&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2727" LastEditorUserId="2727" LastEditDate="2016-09-19T01:53:54.167" LastActivityDate="2023-12-02T19:52:19.653" Title="Are barrel nuts strong?" Tags="|safety|furniture|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4666" CreationDate="2016-09-19T07:49:32.760" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes barrel nuts are strong enough for this application. However, they're not your only option. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would they be equal to, or greater than, nails/screws in terms of strength?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like so many things it depends. To begin with the size of barrel nut you're comparing to is a variable, obviously the larger they are the stronger they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nails are a good first point of comparison since screws are widely known to be stronger. But nail type and length matters (just as it does with screws) but with nails perhaps most important of all is &lt;em&gt;how they're driven home&lt;/em&gt;. If you 'dovetail' or 'toenail' the nails in the strength of the connection is increased hugely compared to every nail being driven in at 90°.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what you're looking to do some kind of screw-in / screw out connectors do seem the ideal choice though. And IMO no major connections in indoor furniture should be done with nails any longer, that's for rough carpentry and outdoor pieces only these days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you're willing to do the drilling for the barrel nuts it's little extra effort to drill for the insertion of hardwood dowels instead, which can be used with conventional screws to provide essentially the same build, the same ability to be taken apart* and may actually prove stronger and more stable long-term:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5choo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5choo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Screws into dowel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finehomebuilding.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fine Homebuilding&lt;/a&gt;. Note that where the drawing says to countersink that is actually a &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3612/what-joining-methods-would-be-best-for-the-legs-and-other-areas-of-a-height-adju/3613#3613&quot;&gt;counterbore&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method is also slightly more forgiving of minor issues with alignment, if that matters!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide to go ahead with barrel nuts you might consider locking them with Threadlock or something to keep them from loosening due to vibration. But how prone to working loose the bolts will be is down to how closely they're machined as much as the amount of movement or vibration in the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Threaded connections in wood can usually be used multiple times without any loss of strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-09-19T07:49:32.760" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4668" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-19T07:57:19.827" Score="2" ViewCount="1604" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have started to rebuild my home office and due to a shortage of space have to have a 3-section desk. The first is fixed in place over the top of the void above the stairs with supporting cupboards underneath. The second piece (the one in question) will need to hinge upwards (too long to hinge downwards) to allow for an extending bed used occasionally. The third is not in question here as will be clip on so easily removed and light use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, how best to hinge this piece of desk. The desk is 25mm thick laminated MDF, the framework below is 18mm Laminated MDF. I obviously want the two pieces to sit close together, and thought about attaching a protruding 18mm piece of wood to the fixed desk and using full overlay cabinet hinges (6 of) that way the weight of the desk when closed would rest on the wood rather than the hinge, and it would only be opened about 6 times a year when people visit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if anyone has any better ideas...I would happily listen right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tnkXa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tnkXa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;This might better describe my words&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2730" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-09-22T07:34:47.883" LastActivityDate="2016-09-28T10:17:03.360" Title="Hinge a 25mm worktop to fold upwards" Tags="|hinges|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4665" CreationDate="2016-09-19T08:14:43.237" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes your screws should back out easily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good news about the glue joint is that the edges of plywood often doesn't glue very well so the board may not be bonded to the poplar particularly strongly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To break the glue line, if you have the right type of clamps you can reverse the heads and use them as spreaders. If not you can simply knock them off using a block of wood (softwood ideally) and a hammer or mallet. If using a hammer work in from the ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a bit of luck the joint will just pop open and you won't tear any face grain off the poplar or out of the edge of the plywood but that is a possibility, depending on how well the surfaces were prepped ahead of time and how strongly they were pressed together while the glue dried (high clamping pressure gives much stronger glue joints with most woodworking glues).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you don't rip off any face grain from the poplar the inside face will need to be cleaned up thoroughly before you glue again. A light skim with a hand plane, scraping or thorough sanding will all do what's needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just a bit of sanding may be all that's needed on the edge of the plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: you'll need to drill fresh holes for the pocket screws on the right leg so you'll need to move their positions slightly to one side of the existing ones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kudos for re-doing this by the way, many people would have just left it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a future project, a rabbet (UK: rebate) or dado (UK: housing) for the plywood edges will give you automatic registration, provided a neater and stronger join and make finishing easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-09-19T08:14:43.237" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4668" CreationDate="2016-09-19T12:39:55.393" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want it to fold down, this is basically a drop-leaf table. If you want it to fold upward, it's more like a drop-down table  Searching those terms should find some designs you could base yours on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-09-19T12:39:55.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4671" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-19T17:24:00.890" Score="3" ViewCount="2503" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where a tool (or any product) is manufactured can be a bit broad, so hopefully this isn't off-topic, but are any of the big woodshop tools (table saw, jointer, band saw, etc) made in the US? Let's not consider accessories like blades, but rather the bulk of the tool itself (motor, table, support structure). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ETA: I'm interested in consumer-grade machines, not industrial. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastEditorUserId="2524" LastEditDate="2016-09-19T22:03:49.060" LastActivityDate="2016-09-20T17:39:32.580" Title="Are any big shop tools manufactured in the USA?" Tags="|table-saw|jointer|lathe|band-saw|thickness-planer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2016-09-21T02:33:00.063" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4671" CreationDate="2016-09-19T17:53:19.310" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shopsmith (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shopsmith.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.shopsmith.com/&lt;/a&gt;) is one that comes to mind. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stillmadeinusa.com/tools.html#Woodworking&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.stillmadeinusa.com/tools.html#Woodworking&lt;/a&gt; may have others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1889" LastActivityDate="2016-09-19T17:53:19.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4671" CreationDate="2016-09-19T20:00:30.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oneway Manufacturing, makers of what are arguably the most coveted and appreciated, (maybe the most expensive, too) wood lathes in the world, claim that all of their employees are in North America. (They are a Canadian company.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2016-09-19T20:00:30.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4674" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4676" CreationDate="2016-09-20T15:31:18.437" Score="3" ViewCount="2605" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on a cutting board and would like to plunge route &quot;handles&quot; into either side of it with a cove bit and it seems the best method would be with a router table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the technique to adequately support the work piece (cutting board, standing on end in this case) and also perform a plunge cut on the router table?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also found this result for accomplishing this with a handheld router, but my question is geared more generically to performing plunge cuts on a router table:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1247/how-can-i-make-an-inset-cutting-board-handle&quot;&gt;How can I make an inset cutting board handle?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-09-20T19:29:17.293" Title="How do I safely accomplish plunge cuts on a router table?" Tags="|router-table|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4671" CreationDate="2016-09-20T17:39:32.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Robust wood lathes. Guaranteed 85% American made. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.turnrobust.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.turnrobust.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2734" LastActivityDate="2016-09-20T17:39:32.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4674" CreationDate="2016-09-20T19:29:17.293" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plunge cuts on a router table are done by lowering the wood onto the spinning bit, holding it against the fence to stabilize it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A higher-than-usual fence may help. Featherboards pushing the work piece agains the fence definitely help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Marks can be made on the fence to indicate where the board should be at the start and end of the cut, so you can align the start properly and not overshoot the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As always, consider cutting to progressively greater depths until you reach your target depth rather than trying to do it all in a single pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure to keep a firm grip on the board... But to keep your fingers safely away from the bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-09-20T19:29:17.293" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4668" CreationDate="2016-09-20T21:54:01.310" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe you have the right idea, and overlay hinges are the way to go. However, you would only need 2 or 3, rather than 6. The more hinges you add to a surface, especially if they are independent, the greater the chance that they will interfere with easy operation due to their rotation axes not being aligned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, why hinge at all? Support both ends, and add dowels and holes (1 per end) to keep the piece from shifting, and just lift it off and store it out the way when you want to use the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="463" LastActivityDate="2016-09-20T21:54:01.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4678" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-21T12:21:30.670" Score="2" ViewCount="451" Body="&lt;p&gt;(I'm not sure if this question belongs in this forum.  If not, feel free to delete it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some old (c 1950?) cedar clapboards that I'd like to re-install.  However, some are cracked.  Some of the cracks are from being nailed through the (thin) top, which I won't do.  Others, though, have running cracks in the 'body', not apparently due to nailing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't use the cracked ones; but, I'm concerned that the cracking might indicate that &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; the boards are apt to crack, and shouldn't be trusted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, would further splitting just/mostly be a result of nailing?  Because, I can pre-drill the nail holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I used them.  No splitting.  In fact, it went a lot better in that regard than new finger-jointed clapboards - the old ones were very forgiving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="484" LastEditorUserId="484" LastEditDate="2016-12-01T03:17:29.337" LastActivityDate="2016-12-01T03:17:29.337" Title="Reuse old cedar clapboards?" Tags="|lumber|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4680" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4682" CreationDate="2016-09-21T15:22:42.043" Score="3" ViewCount="1220" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a tall, narrow alcove in my home where I would like to recreate a single &quot;plank&quot; of this wine rack (apologies for bad lighting, was in a dark restaurant):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V1Zkg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V1Zkg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will very likely have a local woodworking shop tackle this, but I'm interested to know how the ovular holes in the outer plank were created, as well as how they ensured that the necks of the wine bottles went through the backing supports at the proper angle.  Is this something that should easy to recreate for any professional woodworking shop?  Are there similar plans available someplace?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I know it is probably difficult to tell from this picture, but can anyone take an educated guess at what sort of wood the front planks are?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2736" LastActivityDate="2016-09-22T14:40:31.317" Title="How can I recreate this wine rack (ovular holes, proper angle, etc.)?" Tags="|wood|drill-bits|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4678" CreationDate="2016-09-21T15:39:51.847" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Cedar siding probably cracked when it was being removed. Cedar is very rot and weather resistant but is somewhat fragile when it is thin as in siding boards. I would not hesitate to reuse the good pieces. It is soft enough that it will nail easily without splitting. you could reuse some of the cracked boards if you put silicone caulk on the backside of the crack to prevent water going through the crack. The caulk will also act as a glue on the cracks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2735" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2016-09-21T22:36:34.220" LastActivityDate="2016-09-21T22:36:34.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4680" CreationDate="2016-09-21T15:46:05.377" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is the holes were created with a forstner bit. There are lots of ways you could do it, for example you could use a hole saw, but forstner bits in a drill press produce the cleanest holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fortsner bits and hole saws are circular and produce circular holes, not oval (elliptical) holes, but your next observation provides the key to the mystery. The holes are angled. If you use a round bit to cut at an angle, it'll produce an elliptical hole in the wood it is cutting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The work piece was likely held at an angle when being drilled. If the craftsman was using a drill press with a suitable width to reach the center hole, this would be pretty easy with an angled sled such as this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XNbSI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XNbSI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Angled drill press jig&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image credit: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodsmithtips.com/2014/11/27/handy-drill-press-jig/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;woodsmithtips.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are plenty of other examples of this jig. A Google image search for &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=angled+drill+press+jig&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;biw=1478&amp;amp;bih=727&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwiJgcTZ5aDPAhXq7YMKHX_gDiEQ_AUIBygC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;angled drill press jig&lt;/a&gt;&quot; turns up plenty of results, including commercial and shop built options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not familiar with the practices of production wood shops, but from a technical point of view I would think most shops could handle this request, assuming they were willing to take on the project in the first place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2016-09-22T14:40:31.317" LastActivityDate="2016-09-22T14:40:31.317" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4683" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-21T16:45:53.700" Score="4" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm designing a bar counter, and am considering terrace decking planks for a counter top:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XIC1E.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XIC1E.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I imagine the benefit of it would be drainage of wet rings from cold glasses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why it's not widespread?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What kind of wood would be the best for it. The cheapest is pine, there's something called 'thermal wood' readily available marketed as durable option.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How should it be covered and treated?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1811" LastActivityDate="2016-09-22T07:32:01.760" Title="Grooved bar counter top" Tags="|tabletop|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4683" CreationDate="2016-09-22T07:32:01.760" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why it's not widespread? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A grooved surface can only act as drainage if it is installed at an angle. And a sloping bartop might not be that popular with patrons! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's not at a suitable angle it will act to collect the water and just allow it to sit there, also extremely unpopular with patrons I would guess, plus it would make it &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; harder to wipe condensation or spilled drinks up when the inevitable happens. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On top of all that think of the potential for that profile to trap dirt. A health inspector would probably take one look at it and 'ask' for it to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How should it be covered and treated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide to go ahead with this material anyway I think there are really only two good options and that is epoxy or fibreglass. Both applied thickly enough to fill the grooving completely :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-09-22T07:32:01.760" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4686" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4688" CreationDate="2016-09-22T20:01:37.323" Score="7" ViewCount="797" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e2FNYJMkP-o&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Wood Whisperer's video&lt;/a&gt; about some of the terms and such you see at a hardwood dealer, but it deals mostly with solid wood. There are some topics he doesn't touch on, like the various grades of plywood. I have the price list from my local hardwood dealer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and there are several terms / abbreviations there: L/C, V/C, PS, RC, A-1, D-3, etc. Depending on the wood species, there's only 1 option to choose from (like Cherry), so if I want plywood with that veneer, I have to get that grade / quality / whatever, or go elsewhere. But, if I'm looking for e.g., Baltic Birch, I have 2 options (4B and 3B), or if I want regular Birch, I can choose B-2 V/C or A-1 L/C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do these terms / abbreviations mean, and when would I choose one over another? Are these standardized among hardwood dealers, or will they all have their own system?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d0vNA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d0vNA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;plywood prices&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastEditorUserId="2524" LastEditDate="2016-09-23T00:16:54.327" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T19:22:59.300" Title="Reading a hardwood dealer's price list for plywood" Tags="|plywood|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4686" CreationDate="2016-09-22T20:25:41.467" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are indeed standard definitions for plywood grades. Unfortunately different countries may use different standards. But the most common conventions, per &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plywood#Grades&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;, are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A Face and back veneers practically free from all defects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A/B   Face veneers practically free from all defects. Reverse veneers&#xA;  with only a few small knots or discolorations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A/BB  Face as A but reverse side permitting jointed veneers, large&#xA;  knots, plugs, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;B Both side veneers with only a few small knots or discolorations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;B/BB  Face veneers with only a few small knots or discolorations.&#xA;  Reverse side permitting jointed veneers, large knots, plugs, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;BB    Both sides permitting jointed veneers, large knots, plugs, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;C/D   For structural plywood, this grade means that the face has knots&#xA;  and defects filled in and the reverse may have some that are not&#xA;  filled. Neither face is an appearance grade, nor are they sanded&#xA;  smooth. This grade is often used for sheathing the surfaces of a&#xA;  building prior to being covered with another product like flooring,&#xA;  siding, concrete, or roofing materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;WG    Guaranteed well glued only. All broken knots plugged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;X Knots, knotholes, cracks, and all other defects permitted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;WBP   Weather and Boil Proof used in Marine Ply. Designation replaced by&#xA;  EN 314-3. JPIC Standards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;BB/CC Face as BB, back as CC. BB as very little knots of less than 1/4&#xA;  inches, slight discoloration, no decay, split and wormholes mended&#xA;  skillfully, matched colors, no blister, no wrinkle. Common cost&#xA;  compromise for stuff that doesn't have to look like anything but&#xA;  softwood plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the quoted table includes some additions and suffixes, and I'm not sure how to read those. You could ask the dealer to translate these...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2016-09-22T23:04:06.943" LastActivityDate="2016-09-22T23:04:06.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4686" CreationDate="2016-09-23T14:20:35.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the grade, plywood can have different cores.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following is taken from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.paxtonwood.com/PlywoodCore.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PaxtonWood.Com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Combination Core&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two types of Combination Core construction. The first type consists of a center veneer core and a crossband veneer on both sides of the center with a layer of MDF, particleboard, or hardboard under the face and back veneer. The second type consists of an oriented strand board or wafer board center with a veneer crossband on both sides, under the face and back veneer. Combination Core can be used when the project calls for consistent flatness and good screw-hold ability, without the weight of a MDF or particleboard core.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mZ52C.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mZ52C.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Combination Core&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lumber Core&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lumber edge glued into a solid slab is considered Lumber Core. Lumber Core plywood is most often found in the construction of import panels, usually only 18mm thickness panels. Lumber Core plywood consists of a face &amp;amp; back veneer, then a layer of crossband veneer, with the edge glued lumber in the center. Lumber Core plywood should be used for the bending strength and screw-hold ability. The ability of Lumber Core plywood to bounce back makes it an excellent choice when constructing long or wide shelves in cabinets or closets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TRGEs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TRGEs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lumber Core&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;MDF Core&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Medium Density Fiberboard Core has the most uniform thickness and consistency of any panel core. The face and back veneer are glued directly to the MDF Core without the need for a crossband veneer. The consistency in thickness and flatness makes MDF Core panels the preferred choice for 32mm construction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zoagK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zoagK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;MDF Core&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Particleboard Core&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Particleboard Core panels are constructed similar to MDF Core panels, with the face &amp;amp; back veneers glued directly to the core. Particleboard Core lays flat like MDF, but does not have the screw-hold strength of other cores. Particleboard Core is the least expensive of all core types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4UVRr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4UVRr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Particleboard Core&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Veneer Core&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Veneer Core plywood consists of a center veneer and crossband veneers alternately layered on both sides of the center to the desired thickness producing an odd number of veneers for the core. The weight-bearing strength of Veneer Core plywood is excellent along with its bending strength and screw-hold ability. Veneer core panels are lighter in weight than any other core type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XhFNv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XhFNv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, the veneer on the panel can be cut one of two ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Plain Sliced&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plain slicing a log occurs when a log is only turned a few inches at a time when slicing it, versus a constant turn and peeling method used for Rotary Cut veneer. Plain Sliced veneer produces a cathedral grain pattern, similar to the pattern produced when plain sawn lumber is produced. Plain Sliced veneer is cut along the growth rings, producing the highest yield of any “slicing” method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rotary&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rotary is the process of peeling the entire long. Turning the log, while shaving the veneer as it turns produces Rotary Cut veneer. This process is the only cutting method that is capable of producing whole piece face veneers. Rotary cut will yield veneer with a broad grain pattern with no plain sliced or quartered appearance. Rotary cut veneers are used in the majority of panels produced in North America. This process yields the most veneer per log and is usually less expensive than sliced veneer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2016-09-23T14:20:35.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4689" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-23T15:54:57.590" Score="3" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a project to make kitchen knife holder. My workpiece is a 6&quot; block of tulip wood which is quartersawn. Since it is quarter sawn out of a tree that looks like it was about 14&quot; in diameter, the grain runs diagonally through the block in quarter circle arcs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The traditional way to divide the block is to split it, but my concern is that since the grain is in an arc, I will not get a plane split. Is there a procedure for making a split perfectly flat and straight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T16:21:53.200" Title="Splitting wood even though grain is arced" Tags="|cutting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4690" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4701" CreationDate="2016-09-23T18:28:23.610" Score="1" ViewCount="1264" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've designed a table with an adjustable shelf. I feel as if I've researched the names and techniques for what kind of gear system to implement, but I need the experience of someone with knowledge of the subject to help me finalize my decisions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my design:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sLnaJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sLnaJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Adjustable Shelf Desk, closed.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gE9YU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gE9YU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Adjustable shelf desk, opened&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions pertain to the gear and crank system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 -The shaft in the design is 56&quot; long. The shelf will hold approximately 30 pounds of equipment. What thickness should the shaft be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 - For mounting the shaft, I'm currently looking at these: &#xA;Hub City FB260URX1/2 Flange Block Mounted Bearing - *can't post more that 2 links yet...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just looking for verification that this is appropraite for my needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 - Based on my research, the gear system is called a Rack and Pinion, but I'm having trouble figuring out what specifically the size and type of gear I should buy. Can someone provide a reference of something that would work for this set up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4- Lastly, I need advice on how to mount and secure the crank and gears to the shaft. Will some sort of locking collar work? Or do I need something else? I am currently looking at these: Climax Metal 1C-100 Steel One-Piece Clamping Collar - *can't post more that 2 links yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's it for now. I'll edit if clarification is needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2741" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T18:40:13.960" Title="How to assemble gear system for adjustable table?" Tags="|technique|design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4691" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4695" CreationDate="2016-09-23T18:55:39.540" Score="2" ViewCount="4483" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've inherited about thirty or so clamps that I'd like to restore. Except for some rust and a some missing plastic/rubber pads, they work great. The clamps include a bunch from Bessey and ShopFox that I'm especially fond of. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest problem is the rust. So far, when I've used them I just put a spacer in between the work piece and the clamps, but I'd like to not have to do that. Additionally, I'm worried that the rust is going to continue to spread. And of course, there's the vanity aspect -- I'd like my tools to look as nice as they can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These ShopFox clamps are a decently representative sample of what I'm facing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7t11H.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7t11H.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rusty ShopFox clamps&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ai7GR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ai7GR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The larger clamp, closer view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aDAwZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aDAwZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The smaller clamps, closer view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first instinct is to take the clamps apart, but they aren't built to be serviced. They seem to have some sort of rivet at the bottom of the bar that prevents the movable jaw from falling off. The smaller clamps also have a rivet holding the fixed jaw in place. The larger clamp in the picture doesn't have a rivet holding the fixed jaw; I'm not sure what is keeping it on or whether I can get it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to clean up the rust on the bars. For the smaller clamps, I could sand as much of what I can see easily enough without taking them apart. But I'm not sure if that would mess up the finish of the black bars? For the larger clamp, there are serrations on the bar, and I am not sure what I should do to remove the rust on that. Naval jelly? Something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My primary concern is the rust, but sometimes I go overboard on projects like this, and so I'm also wondering what kind of paint would be appropriate to touch up the jaws. I'm not sure I want to go that far. But on the other hand, once I've gone to the trouble, sometimes it's nice to go the whole way. Also, is it possible to buy replacement pads for the jaws, or am I out of luck on that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2016-09-24T07:59:10.493" Title="How should I go about restoring rusty clamps?" Tags="|tool-maintenance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-10-24T00:58:05.610" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4691" CreationDate="2016-09-23T19:36:46.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can remove rust with chemicals, abrasives, or electrolysis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chemical Rust Removal&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two main products I use for this are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/s_trmt_naval/overview/Loctite-Naval-Jelly-Rust-Dissolver.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Naval Jelly&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evapo-rust.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Evapro-Rust&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Evapro-Rust is good if you can immerse the entire rusted area in it.  It is easy to use, and is reusable.  I prefer this product if it is practical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the item is too large to immerse, then you can use Naval Jelly.  This is about the consistency of actually jelly, and will remove even deep rust.  It may take a few cycles to get everything.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With either product, it is important to wash off the part with clean water and dry to avoid flash rusting.  The rusted metal will turn to a black iron oxide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vinegar will remove light rust, but Evapro-Rust would be my preferred option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Abrasives&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use sand paper, steel wool, sand or media blasting, or most any other abrasive to remove rust.  The downside of using an abrasive is that you will also wear down some non-rusted metal.  It leaves the part looking more like it did prior to being rusted however.  Unless you are sand blasting, it is difficult to get into the small nooks and cranny's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Electrolysis&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a simple DC current such as an automotive battery charger, and a container of water with baking soda in it, you can remove rust from any iron or steel object.  The process of doing this is worthy of an entire article in itself, but &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y4yYF8gSHdA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here is a YouTube video&lt;/a&gt; showing the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2016-09-23T19:36:46.827" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4693" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-23T23:18:35.770" Score="4" ViewCount="114" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a new table saw blade (Freud 50 tooth combination, thin kerf) to use on my portable / contractor saw (blade was almost half the price of the saw!). Is there anything in particular I should do to the saw or blade before I begin cutting? I figure I need to check the angle and make sure it's perpendicular to the table, but anything else? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T16:09:15.723" Title="Setting up a new table saw blade" Tags="|table-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4694" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-24T00:57:24.443" Score="2" ViewCount="1745" Body="&lt;p&gt;Got new unfinished dark walnut cabinets. Used water based poly after a thorough light sanding and cleaning. After two coats the cabinets look blotchy. What can i do? Thinking about sanding them down and starting over. Please help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2743" LastActivityDate="2016-10-26T18:30:01.033" Title="Blotchy Water based Poly" Tags="|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4691" CreationDate="2016-09-24T07:59:10.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just read over this, TL;DR warning I guess! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to note from the start, you won't get a complete cosmetic facelift with any method because the rust is breaking through nickel (?) plating on some bars, but you'll get a smoother, rust-free surface that will give the clamps smoother operation so doing a little work on these is well worth the effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chemistry&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;On the smaller clamps which have no wood there's the possibility of using a rust soak to remove the rust, by immersing the entire clamp. Personally I would consider this overkill for clamps, but everyone has their own standards and it would be effective and thorough (reaching areas you can't even see, much less access by other means). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My favourite soak is molasses and water for a number of reasons (very safe, non-toxic, can be very cheap, doesn't seem to harm good metal even if parts are soaked for extended periods of time). Its only disadvantage is that it's relatively slow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: Evapo-Rust is reputed to use similar chemistry to molasses solutions. I can't confirm this, but they work &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; similarly and apparently they smell quite similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Electricity&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Electrolysis could be used in a similar way. This shouldn't affect paint that's in good shape and firmly adhered to sound metal, but if there's hidden rust under any paint it will flake tend to flake it off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I would be hesitant to use either method above on these smaller clamps however if there are enclosed springs as you mention in a Comment. It's nearly impossible to dry these out thoroughly enough after soaking in watery solutions so that more rust wont be encouraged in future, even after drying with a hairdryer and drowning the area with WD-40. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Abrasion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Because these are just clamps this would be the method I'd most likely use myself. Also, because you can't soak the long ones due to the wooden handles it means you can use the same method for all clamps, probably ensuring the most consistent results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also partly because the rust is so minor, heavier rust I think should always be tackled with chemical or electrical means first before any abrasion is used to finish off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's likely to also be the fastest method, since you can have de-rusted one or two clamps before you'd even made up a soaking bath or an electrolysis tank!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might find that rubbing down with coarser steel wool (0 or 00 would probably work best) lubricated with mineral spirits or WD-40 will do everything you need here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't use Scotch-Brite or similar non-woven nylon pads sold as &quot;synthetic steel wool&quot; as a substitute for steel wool here. The abrasive action is not at all the same and the nylon pads will scratch any remaining plating more than steel wool. Steel wool has more of a scouring action while Scotch-Brite has a sort of sanding action (because it has small abrasive particles in the web).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After removing as much loose rust as you can you're pretty much done. Because you used an oily lubricant the exposed steel won't be prone to re-rusting immediately (as it can be with chemical or electrical methods) because the metal has oil impregnated in the 'pores'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you need to apply something more for long-term protection from further rusting. Obviously you can use whatever your favourite anti-rust treatment is but I would highly recommend &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1476/table-saw-top-treatment/1484#1484&quot;&gt;paste wax&lt;/a&gt; here as it provides better protection on things that are handled frequently (who doesn't grip F-clamps by the bars when moving them around?) and it improves slip, without the surface being greasy. Win win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My first instinct is to take the clamps apart, but they aren't built to be serviced. They seem to have some sort of rivet at the bottom of the bar that prevents the movable jaw from falling off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On some clamps with long bars of this type this is a roll pin, which can simply be knocked out. With rivets they can be drilled out (to be replaced with fresh rivets later) if you really wanted to get the heads off, but it's perfectly doable to service the clamps fully assembled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;But I'm not sure if that would mess up the finish of the black bars? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide it's necessary you can get proprietary colouring solutions to give metal a surface colour, similar to the treatment used in the factory to make these dark initially. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dark finish is not merely cosmetic in case you don't know, usually it provides some rustproofing as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For the larger clamp, there are serrations on the bar, and I am not sure what I should do to remove the rust on that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is another reason not to use conventional abrasives, sandpaper especially. If you find the steel wool won't do enough you could switch to using a wire wheel in your power drill or drill press, but a hand-held wire brush might be sufficient (it often is for light rust). In case it's not obvious best to brush across the bar not along it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My primary concern is the rust, but sometimes I go overboard on projects like this, and so I'm also wondering what kind of paint would be appropriate to touch up the jaws. I'm not sure I want to go that far. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clamps are some of the real workhorses in the shop, they get used a lot, they can't be babied when your focus is on keeping the wood from coming to harm, they sometimes get dropped. So I think it's realistic to expect them to get banged up a bit over time and to look like it. However saying that I don't think it's going overboard to repaint tools sometimes. This isn't only about making them look nicer, paint is also a much more permanent rust preventative so it's not merely a cosmetic thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The paint type for this kind of thing would be an enamel. I can't give a specific recommendation but in general you'll get a much tougher paint if you go with a traditional enamel (brushes cleaned with spirits) than with a waterbased enamel. The latter have come a long way and they're not bad any longer by any means, but they're not generally as tough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also, is it possible to buy replacement pads for the jaws, or am I out of luck on that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many plastic pads have a slight texture in them to help with grip and this can be impressed even into some hardwoods (and very much so into softwoods) so I think it's better to affix plywood, hardboard or MDF pads to clamps, which provide good grip but no risk of transferring a pattern to the workpiece (also lessens the need for intermediate blocks of wood). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normal PVA-type wood glue will work to attach the pads even though it's not for metal or painted surfaces, the grip is good enough to keep the pads in place but not so strong (as with epoxy) that replacement becomes difficult when needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-09-24T07:59:10.493" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4696" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5104" CreationDate="2016-09-24T15:10:23.850" Score="4" ViewCount="2393" Body="&lt;p&gt;I managed to rescue some 3/8 interior grade birch plywood I had sitting outside from a surprise rain storm last night but not before it took some water. I had been planning on staining the pieces today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Around here 12-18% emc is about normal. It is hard to tell if the wood is damp by feel because it is cool and humid today, but the edges exposed to the rain are at about 45%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: Do I care? The surface appears dry by look. Should I wait for this to all dry out another day or two or can I just go for staining it and trust it? I &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; want to get this done today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its a Minwax oil based stain, water seems to bead up on it while it's drying, so I guess has at least some sort of moisture trapping effect, could staining it while it's damp also affect the longevity? I plan on finishing it with helmsman spar urethane after staining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2016-09-25T12:57:25.727" LastActivityDate="2019-05-25T03:09:45.987" Title="Can I stain damp plywood" Tags="|finishing|plywood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4697" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-24T16:15:42.903" Score="7" ViewCount="192" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a first project I would like to build a picture frame. The picture frame I want to build is 24&quot;w 1&quot;d 21&quot;h. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not have a table saw and for some unknown reason I am scared of them. So using a table saw is not an option for me at this point. I am planning to use a hand saw (with miter box) and router. I was hoping to be able to find 1” x 1” square dowel. Remove enough material with the router to be able to install the plexiglass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Am I approaching this project the right way?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Where can I find 1” x 1” square dowel (it would be nice if it was walnut).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The frame in the picture below is walnut. What kind of finish did they apply?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The frame I would like to build would be similar to the one below.&#xA;Thank you for your help/comments!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OEaLy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OEaLy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2745" LastActivityDate="2016-09-25T10:24:51.747" Title="How to build a picture frame?" Tags="|framing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4699" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4703" CreationDate="2016-09-25T01:53:35.367" Score="3" ViewCount="825" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use my router in the router planer. It has been through a lot of use and I use 2 different bits for planing. Both are 1/2 straight bits. Recently they will start to fall out if I went to fast, even if it wasn't working hard. But does necessarily mean the collet is shot because these were cheap bits off of ebay (did not want to use good bits for the job). By cheap I mean about $2. I was careful to make sure they did not explode in my face. Could the shanks be smaller than 1/4 like it clams. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it worth investing in a more expensive bit. Or thinking the other way is it the collect? I would not think it would wear but I may be wrong I guess. If it is and I can not find a new one, could I use a piece of paper around the shank of the bit to help get a better grasp? I really do not know what is happening. And I am tightening the bit as good as I can go, maybe a little to much. So anything would help right now, thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2016-09-26T15:55:21.570" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T15:55:21.570" Title="Need a new router collet , or bit?" Tags="|router|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2017-03-25T21:21:08.677" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4700" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-25T01:57:53.630" Score="4" ViewCount="2610" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some people add these cyclone things to there shop vac and is wondering what it does other than adding space and watching the wood go in circles. My best guess is it takes the bigger chips of wood and it falls in the cyclone but the dust goes to the vac. Or it somehow allows the shop vac to run longer? If there is benefits would it be a nice accessory to get?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T12:51:20.070" Title="What does a cyclone for a shop vac do?" Tags="|shop-vac|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4690" CreationDate="2016-09-25T02:56:22.347" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am by far not experienced with this. So I have little to say. I am sure you have gears on either side so lets start there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) I would say for the shaft maybe a good 1-1/2 in to 2 in would be a good thickness if it is a stronger wood. That would last very long. I would even consider thicker for pine. All it would take is to much weight and the grain can give anyplace in the shaft. Unless your using metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Any bearing the shaft fits into would work fine. Make it flush with the wood and have pressure so it does not fall out. You can also just place the shaft directly in the wood. I would make the hole in the wood ever so slightly bigger and use oil as a lubricant. Of coarse that would things a little harder but possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Something I can give a fairly good answer to. It is call rack and pinion, I am sure. The basic rule I have with gears is small gears will give more torque. Like on a drill, making it easier to rise the shelf but slower. A big gear will be faster, but harder to lift. I recommend smaller Maybe 10 teeth will work for you. I have a website you can use &lt;a href=&quot;http://geargenerator.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://geargenerator.com&lt;/a&gt;. You can download the gear selected and print it. It is fairly accurate in size. So if you have a band saw you will be able to make a gear. cut the gear out (not perfect) and glue it to a piece of wood. Once dried use a drill bit and cut in between the teeth at bottom edge to make things easier. Then if you have a band saw you can cut it out. There is a gear without buying a gear. But this simple website does not help with the rack. But you can cut it out as well. As long as the teeth can line up and move you are set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) oh man... I will try my best. You can make a locking collar pretty easily. again a band saw may be best. I will be adding a rough picture of what I am thinking below. But use a bearing in the wood* and slide the shaft through for the handle to attach a locking collar. And do the same on the other side. It can not move at the point but can be loosen to move. The shaft should then reach over to the gear. I consider gluing the gear when it is on the shaft. Also put a bearing in the wood* on the other side, having the shaft sticking out the side. Locking collar there and on the inside. That should really work good.&#xA;* Cut a hole from the inside and do not cut all the way through. Just so the bearing is flush to the wood. But have a hole cut bigger than the inner-diameter so that the shaft goes through the wood easy, but the bearing does not fall out. and have a locking collar on the inside against the bearing so it also has no problems falling out of place, but not so it is harder to turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ybd8V.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ybd8V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cut in half at the red line. The screws will tighten as you tighten on each side. This would be good for each end of the wood to keep the shaft from moving.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nByZx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nByZx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Here is a sample gear from the website. I showed were you should drill before cutting out the gear&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am hoping this answered the question very well. If not comment and I will do my best. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. welcome to the club!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2016-09-25T02:56:22.347" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4700" CreationDate="2016-09-25T03:06:09.010" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A cyclone is a separator. A properly designed separator pulls most of the solids, down to fairly fine dust, out of the air stream before they reach the shop vac (or, in larger versions, the dust collector). This reduces/slows clogging of the filter, and makes the vacuum system more efficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-09-25T03:06:09.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4699" CreationDate="2016-09-25T09:48:30.200" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;While you say the bits were cheap and you think they're to blame&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; there's a good chance your collet is shot also, because once bits become loose under speed they will tend to wear the collet too as well as their own shaft. Once the collet is worn you get an effect call &lt;em&gt;runout&lt;/em&gt; where the bit can deflect from the rotational axis. Runout causes vibration and chatter, and of course at worst the bit can work free during use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xtJdy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xtJdy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Router runout&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;strong&gt;The New Router Handbook&lt;/strong&gt; by Patrick Spielman.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there is a chance your collet hasn't worn excessively and just needs to be cleaned well so that it can tighten properly. Sticky wood dust and resin can build up between the fingers of the collet (even inside the hole) and it needs to be cleaned away using an appropriate solvent and small brushes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Prevention&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Prevention is not to be taken literally here since some wear is inevitable, but to lessen wear in future it's important to follow good practice when installing a bit&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. Not sure if it's the main thing but it's important never to tighten the collet nut with a bit fully inserted or &quot;bottomed out&quot;, always back it up slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom edge of the cutter head on the bit (or the bearing if it has one there) should never press against the rim of the collet, but there's also this which isn't as obvious:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1SBUv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1SBUv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Router bit installation depth&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: Wonkee Donkey Tools.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a quick visual reference for installing bits to their proper depth in the collet it's worth marking their shafts with a sharpie after you've determined the ideal position, the line will instantly tell you &lt;em&gt;that's in far enough&lt;/em&gt; and not to mount the bit any deeper. This line will probably need to be renewed periodically as cleaning resin from the bit will eventually wear it away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;Cheap bits are a potential problem here because reportedly their shafts can be undersize (by a very tiny amount, but it's enough) which in addition to allowing for play in the bit when spun up can also stress the collet if it's tightened down enough to grip firmly — overtightening collets can lead to premature failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;Your router's manual probably has all the basics laid out in the introductory pages and it would be worth going over them again to commit them to memory, then doing some practice drills until good installation practice is second nature. Can't be too safe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have the paper manual for your router an electronic version will be available for download online (this is a legal requirement everywhere I believe).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-09-25T09:48:30.200" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4697" CreationDate="2016-09-25T10:24:51.747" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I do not have a table saw and for some unknown reason I am scared of them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some fear is entirely appropriate, table saws are potentially very dangerous tools. The table saw regularly tops lists of the most dangerous power tool and it may account for the largest number of serious injuries in a woodworking shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, you don't need a table saw for doing picture frames rest assured! Picture frames were made for a long long time before table saws came on the scene.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even today if someone owned one they might not use their table saw for doing picture frames, except for some initial ripping cuts, because they wouldn't be the tool of choice for forming the rabbet/rebate or cutting the mitres. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am planning to use a hand saw (with miter box) and router. I was hoping to be able to find 1” x 1” square dowel. Remove enough material with the router to be able to install the plexiglass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is entirely doable. Be aware though that sawn mitres might not be quite perfect and for a very good fit it would be common to trim the mitres, e.g. usinig a hand plane and a mitre shooting board, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3361/one-day-projects-for-wood-working-fundamentals/3379#3379&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2666/cutting-tight-miter-joints-for-a-frame-around-an-existing-object/2667#2667&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is another option to consider which would make the construction even simpler, and that is to build up as covered in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3466/can-a-picture-frame-be-made-from-wood-molding-from-a-diy-big-box-store/3500#3500&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Where can I find 1” x 1” square dowel (it would be nice if it was walnut).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can't answer that for you I'm afraid as it's completely dependent on location. But in many places walnut in pre-formed shapes won't be available. The usual route would be to buy wider boards and then rip narrow strips from them which are then formed into the frame members.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other woods, including poplar, pine and white or red oak are commonly available as readymade strip material however. It isn't uncommon to get a lesser wood (e.g. poplar) and then colouring it so it looks like walnut, either with wood stain and then applying a gloss finish, or by using &quot;gel stain&quot; (a type of coloured varnish).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The frame in the picture below is walnut. What kind of finish did they apply?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Impossible to tell, it could be nearly anything. (Incidentally the frame in the photo actually looks like it might be oak.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you're after an easy, reliable way to finish that gives a good shine then I highly recommend using wipe-on varnish. They sell &quot;Wiping Varnish&quot; already made up but there's no reason to buy it and pay too much for it, you can easily make it yourself at home. Buy regular gloss polyurethane varnish, decant a little into a jar with a tight lid, thin it with some additional mineral spirits (1/3 works fine but you can make it as thin as you like). Shake the jar and it's ready to use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can wipe the diluted varnish on as the name suggests or brush it on, it doesn't matter. You don't have to but some or all of the excess can be wiped from the wood and then it's left to dry. It dries faster the more you wipe away but builds up more slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Safety note: if you wipe on with cloths or paper towels these should be laid out flat to dry and not left scrunched up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Three coats will usually prove just enough to finish hardwood so it looks uniformly coated, but by all means apply more coats if you want or the wood looks like it needs it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-09-25T10:24:51.747" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4700" CreationDate="2016-09-25T23:59:01.143" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;For detailed information about how they work, check out &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyclonic_separation&quot;&gt;the wikipedia article&lt;/a&gt;. Basically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Rotational effects and gravity are used to separate mixtures of solids and fluids. The method can also be used to separate fine droplets of liquid from a gaseous stream.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shop-vac creates suction at the top center of an upside down cone. Matter enters from the side. However, large particles, because of their momentum, mass, and centrifugal force, instead of going straight through to the vacuum, spin around the walls of the cone instead, eventually just falling out a hole in the bottom into the bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a nice demo: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v2ALTK6d07A&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v2ALTK6d07A&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have one and it's great. Instead of cleaning out filters virtually daily, I shake them out every... 2-3 months tops, and even then it's only really fine dust, unlike the inches of caked on crud that usually collects on the filter. The cyclone pulls all the large particles and a good % of dust out into a bucket first, so the filter stays clean and suction stays close to 100%. That's the major benefit; where dust normally clogs the filter causing suction to fall off fast, the cyclone keeps most of the material separate and out of the airway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2016-09-26T12:51:20.070" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T12:51:20.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4706" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4709" CreationDate="2016-09-26T12:25:42.043" Score="3" ViewCount="638" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first time doing woodwork, and after tons of research online, here's what I've understand, but I'll still need a little bit of help. What I'm building is a small shelf to be put on top of my desk to organize things up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So from what I understand, this is the process of finishing wood (excluding the sanding part). Stain, then apply finish. And the finish that I can choose from are shellac, polyurethane, lacquer and varnish. Now I'm confused on which to use as a beginner in woodworking. I've seen those wood clear coat paint in my local hardware store, does it work the same way as other finishes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh and also from many furnitures I've seen before, there's ugly brush strokes on the finishes, is there anyway I can prevent it and have a smooth finish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2751" LastActivityDate="2016-09-28T09:57:14.350" Title="Wood Finishing - Beginner" Tags="|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-09-29T14:31:49.753" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4489" CreationDate="2016-09-26T16:48:40.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may be a little expensive depending on how much you need, but the phenolic-impregnated WebbWood materials (webbwood.com) may work for you. When it is being made, all the moisture is removed using a heat and vacuum process, then phenolic resin is introduced &amp;amp; is pulled in to replace the moisture. We put a piece of WebbWood PH material in a water bath for six months, then weighed it to see how much water had been absorbed - as far as we could measure, there was zero absorption. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2752" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T16:48:40.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4694" CreationDate="2016-09-26T17:31:39.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got decent results with water based poly by lightly sanding with 400 between coats and applying like 6 or 9 of them. Then I used steel wool of highest grade (#0000?) to get it to uniform matte sheen on the last coat (and to get rid of all the bubbles). Then after a few weeks I used random orbital sander with wool pad and plastic polishing compound to get it to gloss. (I used NOVUS Plastic Polish, but I'm sure there are others).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use several thin coats of poly with light sanding between coats. First couple of coats always look like crap. After that wood is sealed and it starts to get much easier (unless you use too much poly at once, then you get different kinds of problems). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use steel wool only on the last coat (to avoid rusting strands embedded under the layers). Very high grade sandpaper might also work, but using steel wool it is easier to bring uneven surfaces to uniform sheen and to hide any imperfections in the finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wait a few days before using steel wool and wait a few weeks (check instructions on the can, usually a month I think) before trying to polish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2633" LastEditorUserId="2633" LastEditDate="2016-09-26T17:36:43.837" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T17:36:43.837" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4706" CreationDate="2016-09-26T18:20:09.480" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a &lt;em&gt;massive&lt;/em&gt; topic, and I'm personally not well equipped to completely answer it, just approaching the novice &amp;rarr; intermediate transition myself (nor would I attempt to -- volumes of books by hundreds of authors have been written about this over hundreds of years), but maybe I can at least point you to a few resources on here that might help you with your immediate problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, before that, a lot can be learned by &lt;em&gt;experimenting&lt;/em&gt;. Not on your actual piece of course; but just get some scrap wood and go to town. You don't want to know how enormous my pile of scrap finishing samples is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways, from one beginner to another:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So from what I understand, this is the process of finishing wood (excluding the sanding part). Stain, then apply finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some terminology:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Finish&quot; is the entire collection of things you do to your raw wood to get its surface to its final form, which may include stain if you use it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And about sanding:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's a hot topic. More experienced woodworkers understand that constantly sanding between every coat of whatever is a bit overkill, even if products advise it in their instructions. Over time, I have confirmed this for myself. Sanding as a first step, however, is of course pretty useful and typical. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;And the finish that I can choose from are shellac, polyurethane, lacquer and varnish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are others (e.g. paint, or various oils, like linseed or teak, and you need not put a stain on first if it gets you the looks you're going for), and even within those there are subcategories, e.g. oil- or water-based polyurethane, polycrylic, spar urethane/varnish, oil- or water-based stains, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also be careful with the term &quot;varnish&quot;. Colloquially it's meaning has expanded and personally I find it to be confusing in conversation unless I make sure everybody is on the same page first. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diffen.com/difference/Polyurethane_vs_Varnish&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This page sums it up&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Varnish is an older type of finish made from resins, oils, and solvents, but very often, the term &quot;varnish&quot; is misused as a generic name for all types of wood finishing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the ones you identify, the best I can do is point you to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/skills-and-know-how/painting/whats-the-difference-between-polyurethane-varnish-shellac-and-lacquer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this nice little write-up&lt;/a&gt;. From my own limited experience, maybe this will help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Shellac (dewaxed): A nightmare, never useful to me, not for the faint of heart. The only way I've ever figured out how to apply it smoothly is wipe-on, &lt;em&gt;heavily&lt;/em&gt; diluted, about a dozen coats. It dries extremely fast, and doesn't really offer much protection against anything, although it does look nice. I went through a phase where for some reason I tried to use shellac for &lt;em&gt;everything&lt;/em&gt;, mostly I was lured in by its fast dry times -- looking back, my success rate was 0%. The only thing I actually use it for now is coating the work surface of random MDF jigs to keep it from getting torn up; it's a pretty good &quot;sealer&quot; for MDF (e.g. my router table has an MDF surface, finished with shellac and a well-maintained coat of paste wax).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Oil-based Polyurethane: My favorite general category. I find it easy to work with and strong, takes a long time to dry and requires patience, but pretty versatile. I've &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3658/how-do-i-de-nib-polyurethane-after-it-dries-but-still-maintain-its-finish&quot;&gt;learned a lot about working with it&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Polycrylic: This is easy to apply, not as good scratch resistance as a more &quot;hard core&quot; polyurethane but still great especially for shelves and stuff, and dries very quickly. Problem is it doesn't stick to oil-based stain well (I found this out the dumb, hard way). You could lay a coat of shellac down between the stain and the polycrylic, although that's a pain. Instead you could go for a water-based stain. A water-based stain plus a polycrylic finish is a great balance of protection + dry times and cleanup ease, IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lacquer / varnish: I've never really used lacquer. Varnish is still a pretty generic term, so if you count e.g. Minwax Helmsman as &quot;spar varnish&quot;, that's about my experience there (incidentally, I'm a &lt;em&gt;huge&lt;/em&gt; fan of that stuff on top of stain for indoor and outdoor projects alike).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Boiled linseed oil, Teak oil, &quot;danish&quot; oil, etc: I love the look of BLO in particular; it doesn't offer much protection but it's &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; easy to apply (and to repair) and can really give some beautiful results, especially without stain.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's other random fun things you can do, too. For example, for a while I was experimenting with bleach or oxalic acid on poplar to remove the green tint, with various oils on top of it, with great results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for application methods you just kind of have to experiment. For stain, oils, and shellac, I like wiping it on with a rag. For polyurethane and spar urethane I'm a big fan of foam brushes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Preventing brush strokes depends on what you're talking about. For oil-based stain I always apply it like so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wipe on thick with a rag. Don't really care about evenness so much as long as you don't leave big drips. Primary purpose is to just get it &lt;em&gt;on&lt;/em&gt; the wood.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After 5-10 minutes wipe / gently buff out the excess.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let it sit for 15 minutes or so then repeat from step 1. Also shake / stir the stain periodically, sometimes it can separate and settle quickly then it's very light when you apply it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For thicker stuff like poly I usually do some variant of the following (how many coats, how you sand, etc. really depends on the look you are going for and how much time you want to spend):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slop it on quickly with a foam brush, just to get coverage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Working fast, smooth out any drips on other faces (besides the one you're working on) as you go.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After slopping it all onto a section (do this within a minute or two tops) run the brush in single, continuous, even strokes along the grain to smooth it all out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat as necessary.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sand lightly at the end if you want. For glossy finishes I like to wet sand once then hit it up with ultra-cut car polish and a buffer (Ryobi makes a cheap but effective buffer that they sell at Home Depot). For non-glossy I've found that, after it's fully dry a quick single pass with 400+ followed by a quick wipe with a rag + water / mineral spirits to get rid of the dust smooths it out nicely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For shellac; books have been written about application techniques. It carries a lot of traumatic memories for me so I won't get into it, although if you're feeling masochistic check out &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_polish&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;French polishing&lt;/a&gt; (there's way easier ways to get a nice shiny finish in modern times, though).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For paint I just cut in the corners and stuff with a brush then use a roller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways I've already typed more than I wanted to and I'm sure others here can answer this much more effectively than I can. If there are any take-home points from all of this I would say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Experiment on scraps.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Decide on a look you want &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; try to figure out how to achieve it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Feel free to ask more specific questions here about any of this as you experiment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are definitely multiple bad and multiple good ways to do things, but generally there isn't always a single &lt;em&gt;Right Way™&lt;/em&gt; for everything. There's a lot of cats and a lot of ways to skin them so you just kind of have to settle on whatever you like to work with, in whatever way works for you, that also gets you an end result that you are satisfied with.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T23:22:20.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4690" CreationDate="2016-09-26T18:40:13.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure if this is the answer you are looking for, but I would consider, instead of gears, using a pulley system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you used a pulley setup, you could make used of any number of pre-made and readily available hardware systems (I would start with garage door hardware). This way you are working in tension, instead of compression, which requires much less material, and if you run a cable from the bottom of your lift hardware, up over a pulley, and back down to the rod where your gears would have been, then your crank simply has to wind and unwind the cables to operate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XKHta.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XKHta.png&quot; alt=&quot;Rough example sketch&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something else I would recommend would be to use full extension side mount drawer slides for runners. This would allow it to slide up and down smoothly, they are simple to install, and using two each side as shown, would prevent racking, or leaning of the shelf front to back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, I would mount then so that they are contracted with the unit up, and extended in the down position, this way you don't have to see them at all above the desk height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T18:40:13.960" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4686" CreationDate="2016-09-26T19:05:38.020" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will try to add onto what is already mentioned above. I work in the commercial millwork industry, and we still struggle with terminology from vendor to vendor, and within that, quality of each type, but what I'm listing below is pretty universal in the US, at least in the Southeast where I am.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;L/C - Lumber Core (Hardwood single layer core, with thin veneer on both faces)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;V/C - Veneer Core (this is what we know traditionally as plywood)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS - Plain sliced, or Plainsawn (Referes to cut of the face, will feature prominent cathedrals, and there will be multiple &amp;quot;flitch&amp;quot; lines across the face of the sheet. Each flitch is a slice from the log, essentially.)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m3XS3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m3XS3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RC - Rotary cut (or whole face veneer. This is sliced by spinning the log, and shaving off large pieces of veneer in one piece. Usually the cheapest cut you can get, and least desirable as well, but may be beneficial to avoid the flitch lines)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A-1 - A face - 1 Backer (This will be your best quality combination of faces)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;D-3 - D face - 3 Backer (This will be a lower grade, but still acceptable for paint grade in most cases.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of other notes:&#xA;Veneer core is going to offer greater strength, and durability in moisture over an MDF core, or Particleboard core.&#xA;Veneer core will however be much less stable, and will warp more than a particleboard or mdf core.&#xA;Baltic Birch tends to be the flattest and most stable of most veneer cores, due to the high number of layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, when dealing with manufactured plywoods, or veneer cores, you will want to ask if it is a domestic or imported product.&#xA;Domestic cores are going to be a higher quality product with less voids in most cases than their imported counter parts. You may hear some lower grade plywoods of referred to as &amp;quot;China Birch&amp;quot; which is usually actually a poplar, and a very poor quality product for finished products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T19:22:59.300" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4362" CreationDate="2016-09-26T19:42:45.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want a rule, AWS (Architectural Woodwork Standards) is probably the best thing you can reference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to them (&lt;a href=&quot;http://woodworkinstitute.com/publications/architectural-woodwork-standards/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;section 10, available for purchase&lt;/a&gt;), &quot;Center Line of rests shall not exceed a minimum of 1&quot; (25.4mm) to a maximum of 3&quot; (76.2mm) from the front and back of the interior cabinet body.&quot; - AWS 2009 Section 10, 4.4.14.10.19.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition &quot;The dimension between the center line of the rests shall not be less than 60% of the shelf's depth.&quot; and have &quot;Three supports at each end of shelves over 29-3/4&quot; (756mm) deep.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2016-09-26T20:02:53.333" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T20:02:53.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="707" CreationDate="2016-09-26T19:56:06.427" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the woodworking industry, we have this type of joint very often on countertops, and other field joint scenarios. We usually use a combination of biscuits, for alignment, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cabinetparts.com/p/fastcap-tools-and-templates-specialty-and-safety-tools-FCFLIPBOLT?utm_source=google&amp;amp;utm_medium=paid_search&amp;amp;utm_campaign=paid_search_google_pla&amp;amp;scid=scplp11755765&amp;amp;sc_intid=FC-FLIPBOLT&amp;amp;gclid=CjwKEAjwjqO_BRDribyJpc_mzHgSJABdnsFWsVLLuT1_cfxIMSb6ACIZxleODP2P0_lGQEHDS9pz7hoCD0Lw_wcB&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;tite joint fasteners&lt;/a&gt;, to pull the two pieces together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R9Gk2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R9Gk2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T19:56:06.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="185" CreationDate="2016-09-26T20:08:27.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There will be a lot of differing opinions and methods, but I will give you mine, based on what I have gleaned from having just remodeled my own house, and also spending the last 10 years in construction and commercial millwork industry, and hearing a lot of opinions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, I would definitely use glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, I would invest in some &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00EXU3APA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Collins Miter Clamps&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are invaluable for any miter joints you may encounter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, nailing may be required on some joints to maintain alignment, and I think most would aim to keep those nails on the top side of the header piece of casing, primarily to minimize visibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, I would next recommend investing in a biscuit joiner, and biscuit every miter joint. This will insure proper face alignment, as well as add more glue surface creating a much stronger joint, that won't require any extra nailing in most cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, biscuits work in very think casing materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, a lot of very good installers like to use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.collinstool.com/base.php?page=edge_pocket.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Collins Edge Pocket Jig&lt;/a&gt; but this really only works on thicker casings, and is more if you are looking for bomb proof casing assemblies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T20:08:27.823" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4715" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-26T20:47:09.537" Score="3" ViewCount="4295" Body="&lt;p&gt;Watching some videos on youtube, it seems that sometimes they use the factory edge as a straight edge (e.g., run it along the table saw fence to cut a parallel side). Other times they trim off that edge by running an edge they cut along the table saw fence. Does it depend on the type or quality of the plywood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastActivityDate="2016-09-28T08:47:55.093" Title="Are factory edges of plywood straight?" Tags="|plywood|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4716" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-26T21:00:39.927" Score="4" ViewCount="771" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wood bought from the local home center does usually not have straight edges (usually kinked), and is often warped (bowing being most prevalent). I was surprised to see that at my local hardwood dealer, too (they sell pre-milled 1x and 2x boards). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The selection at the hardwood dealer was much better, with the warping much less pronounced, but it got me thinking. If the hardwood dealer can't get straight, flat boards with their presumably bigger and better machines, how flat and straight can I get them at home with a smaller jointer and planer? How long can I expect them to stay that way? Are some wood species more apt to warp than others (I was looking at poplar)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastActivityDate="2016-09-28T09:17:36.383" Title="If I mill / surface my own wood, will it warp as bad as pre-milled / surfaced wood from the store?" Tags="|wood-movement|milling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4715" CreationDate="2016-09-27T01:20:33.097" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If not damaged, factory edges of plywood sheets are straight and square enough for most practical purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact it's common to use one of the factory edges as a straight reference when building a jig or tool guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2016-09-27T03:48:21.707" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T03:48:21.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4716" CreationDate="2016-09-27T02:55:03.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand (I think) what you are talking about. I am going to guess you have a small planer, like 12 in maybe? If you need a bigger thing look up router planer. Anyway They usually are warped and I put the blame on the grain pattern. the reason for the warping is because they do not cut it then glue it into strips. The best thing to do is buy the straightest boards you can get. Which I am sure the wider/bigger they get the more chance of warp. Take it home and joint on side flat (if not done already). Then go to the table saw and rip it into pieces of 2-3 in strips. Then glue them back together but watch the grain pattern. Do not do it the same like ||| or --- but alternate like |-|-|-|. that alone will help with warping in the future. Then plane as needed. The reasoning for that is both by using glue it tends to help keep the wood in line if-you-will. And you can take controls of how the grain pattern is. If you want some hardcore control of the grain pattern and alternating it then cut the wood into square strips. By doing this you can really have some flat boards. I hope I answered your question, comment if not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T02:55:03.600" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4716" CreationDate="2016-09-27T10:42:37.893" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer, yes you can get your wood more straight than you will find at the box stores, and even from your hardwood dealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would stand to reason, as you say that they should be able to produce a straighter product, but the reality is they are dealing in volume, and so there are many factors. First, they are going to be using the cheapest quality material that they can reasonably get away with, as they have to turn a profit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, this material is milled in volume, and usually is not given much attention to each individual piece. They will often just straight line rip the material on a saw to a rough dimension, and then send it through a moulder, with 4 cutter heads so it is 'straightening' all four faces in one pass. This gets it close, but ultimately not actually straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition they are kiln drying everything, and then it most likely sits outside unprotected from the weather for an extended period of time. The moisture content will change rapidly with the environment that it is left in, and while sitting in large stacks, the wood will expand and contract, and ultimately be left fairly warped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you take a piece of hardwood home, and straighten it properly on a jointer on two perpendicular edges, and then plane it to thickness, removing material as evenly as possible from the opposing faces (taking all of the material off of one face will cause even more warping/bowing), then you can get a very straight board. Furthermore keeping the wood in a more steady environment (out of the rain, limited humidity, closer to its final destination) it will maintain a more constant form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now beyond this, it must still be noted that wood will always move, and in any project built with wood, this movement must be understood and accounted for in the design. If you account for this properly, and accept it early on, you will be successful and happy with the final result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T10:42:37.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4715" CreationDate="2016-09-27T10:50:57.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends. For the most part yes they are 'straight'. But, more often than not, they are marred and damaged through the course of their transit from manufacturing to you, and will have indentations, of even small fragments protruding from the inner layers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is always good practice to start with a clean cut on any store bought wood, and most carpenters, framers, and woodworkers will do this as a standard. If you intend to apply edgebanding, or any finish, or any type of joinery, you should be cutting a new edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that being said, if you are tight on your yield, the factory edge can be used, depending on the project. For sheathing and framing, the factory edges will always be used for full sheets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can check for straight pretty quickly just by eyeing down the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T10:50:57.827" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4668" CreationDate="2016-09-27T11:37:59.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend using a Soss style hinge: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/concealed-soss-hinges-satin-brass-finish&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will be fully concealed, and will be strong enough to support the weight of the top all the way through the movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Euro style hinge is not made to support the weight of a top in this orientation, and, at best, you would be looking for a blind corner Euro hinge to operate in this situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any type of butt hinge will show through the top, if not protrude and create a catch for any objects that may slide over it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soss hinges also will create the thinnest reveal gap between the two tops, at 1/16&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They make these hinges for many different thicknesses as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had to make a custom maple bartop for a restaurant, and they wanted the pass through to fold up, and we used this type of hinge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2016-09-28T10:17:03.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4722" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4729" CreationDate="2016-09-27T11:57:20.423" Score="9" ViewCount="1959" Body="&lt;p&gt;My question is about sharpening edge tools such as plane irons or chisels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I establish, when looking at a tool, what grit to start the sharpening process on?   It's clearly always possible to start on a very coarse grit and work my way up to fine grits and stropping, but in some cases some of that work at the coarser end is unnecessary.   How do I figure out when it's OK (and a time saver) to start at, say, 400 grit or 1000 grit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2557" LastActivityDate="2016-09-30T12:36:01.743" Title="When sharpening, how do I assess what grit to start on?" Tags="|sharpening|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4723" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4732" CreationDate="2016-09-27T12:01:34.043" Score="4" ViewCount="527" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've watched a couple of videos of making mortises.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What technique should I use to remove (bulk) waste from the hole without damaging the ends of the mortise hole?   Clearly levering against them will bruise or dent the wood.  I'm really looking for a technique which allows me to reliably clear the debris without risking damage.   I'm especially looking for answers more specific than &quot;be careful&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I'm not talking about the paring stage, I'm talking about bulk waste removal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2557" LastEditorUserId="2557" LastEditDate="2016-09-27T15:11:31.263" LastActivityDate="2016-09-30T02:50:53.617" Title="How to avoid damaging the ends of mortise holes when chiseling?" Tags="|chisel|mortise-and-tenon|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4723" CreationDate="2016-09-27T12:18:10.053" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't lever. Pare straight downward into the opening, taking it in multiple passes if necessary, and letting the chisel act as a wedge to do the work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T12:18:10.053" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4722" CreationDate="2016-09-27T12:22:55.223" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If just the edge needs sharpening, you may be able to start with a relatively fine grain and just work on the micro bevel at the actual edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to establish the main bevel,  you may need to go with something more aggressive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to actually repair the edge, or do the initial flattening of the back of a chisel or plane iron, starting at the coarse end of the scale will speed that up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2016-09-30T12:36:01.743" LastActivityDate="2016-09-30T12:36:01.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4723" CreationDate="2016-09-27T13:00:42.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you looking to use only hand tools?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a router, this can get the majority of the mortise bottom flat with a flat bottom bit. Then the corners will be easier to chisel out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A drill with a forstner bit can be used to accomplish this as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a drill press, that would be ideal. There are also hollow chisel mortising attachments you can buy for drill presses that will make perfectly square mortises, and many woodoworkers will &quot;drag&quot; this along the bottom to achieve a relatively flat mortise bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to use only hand tools, a router plane would be capable of achieving this, coming from both directions to get into the corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T13:00:42.520" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4722" CreationDate="2016-09-27T15:23:36.780" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The basic idea is that you want the grit to make scratches that are finer than the defects you are trying to remove (otherwise the grit will make things worse rather than better), but not a lot finer (otherwise it will take too long).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only caveat here is that when you are trying to reestablish a main bevel, the relevent &quot;defect&quot; is the layer of metal you are trying to remove (which can be 0.5 or 1mm ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1646" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T15:23:36.780" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4728" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4730" CreationDate="2016-09-27T15:26:33.980" Score="6" ViewCount="224" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hope this is clear. So part of an outdoor project I'm working on has a thing like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AlETz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AlETz.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Those are all 2x4's.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The vertical piece on the left is joined with pocket holes, not shown, not relevant.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The blue/gray areas are 3/8&quot; diameter counterbore holes, about 1.75&quot; depth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The red things are epoxy coated deck screws.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All faces including the ends are finished.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The very bottom piece is pressure-treated fir, finished with exterior grade primer + latex paint.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The other two pieces (the vertical and the piece with the holes) are untreated fir, finished with oil-based stain + exterior grade spar urethane.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The holes face up; water could theoretically sit in them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All the pieces shown in the diagram are flush and you're looking at the wide faces of the 2x4's; there's no secret depth component to that drawing aside from the holes being drilled on the centerline of the wood.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is this: I did drill the counterbore holes before finishing, but I didn't really get any urethane down into the holes. I put the whole thing together, then it rained, then it occurred to me that rain can get into the counterbore holes, where it comes into contact with raw wood. I observed that the water beaded up just fine on the finished surfaces, but soaked into the wood in the holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, my questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do I really need to seal up these holes? As in, do I really &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; to? Of course we don't want water soaking into the wood but given the relative size of the hole, and the fact that it doesn't rain &lt;em&gt;constantly&lt;/em&gt; (i.e. there's time to dry, except in the winter if snow piles on), will I truly regret not finishing the holes?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For hole B, it's pretty easy to do regardless. I could fill it with putty, sanding the finish off the top a bit for the putty to bind, then refinish that area. So regardless of question #1 I'll probably still do hole B.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For hole A, this is actually the one I'm more concerned about. There doesn't appear to be a gap between the vertical piece and the horizontal but I wouldn't trust it to be water tight. The problem is I &lt;em&gt;really don't want to disassemble that corner to fill in the hole&lt;/em&gt;, so: Could it still be a problem? Is there another way to seal that up?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way I figure is, even if water gets in there, it's such a small surface area that it will eventually even out through the surrounding wood and ultimately dry back out through the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For deep counterbore holes on exterior projects exposed to rain, is the effect of not finishing the inside of the hole negligible in the long run? If not, what will happen? What can I expect to see in a few years?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2016-09-28T14:42:09.350" LastActivityDate="2016-09-30T03:00:21.437" Title="Leaving counterbore holes unfinished on exterior projects" Tags="|finishing|water-protection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4722" CreationDate="2016-09-27T15:29:09.173" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order to do this without gaining the experience to be able to assess what grit would be a good start, you would have to (I think this is why people are saying you really have to judge it.):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a microscope to see the amount of metal that needs to be removed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Know the &quot;depth of cut&quot; of different grade abrasives&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose the grade of abrasive that would cut as deep as you need material removed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To gain experience you really just need to do more sharpening. If you are concerned about removing too much material too quickly then start with a fine grit and see if that polishes some parts and leaves scratches or chips untouched. Keep using more coarse grit until the abrasive produces the same size scratches as you're trying to remove. Then start working your way through finer grits to remove the scratches from the previous grit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you improve, you'll naturally be able to look at the scratches or chips and know that it looks like you've just finished with 240 or 400 or 80 (gah!) and that's where you should start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1665" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T15:29:09.173" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4728" CreationDate="2016-09-27T15:42:50.793" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might wait until its pretty dry, and use some exterior caulk. You can fill hold B, and seal around the bottom of the stud on top of hole A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure what this is for, but yes, over time moisture will be able to wick into the end grain through the holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No it probably won't be drastic, or even noticeable for awhile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T15:42:50.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4479" CreationDate="2016-09-27T16:18:51.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many different types of hardware suited for this type of joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rafix is another similar type, but it simpler to machine for. You just have to drill a single hole at the edge of the part as opposed to two holes (one of the face, one on the edge) required for the Ikea type of furniture cam fittings you show above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SDXYH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SDXYH.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as using the joinery from the first picture, all that would require is machine screws and square nuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T16:18:51.140" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4723" CreationDate="2016-09-27T20:39:14.830" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, as Aloysius says above, you should stay away from the ends of the mortise during bulk removal.  1/16 of an inch or 1-2mm should be sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, when you have done a bunch of chopping, and you have chips clogging the mortise, you need to clear them out, as you said.  Use a bench chisel that is one &quot;size&quot; below your mortising chisel.  For example, a 1/4 inch if you are doing a 3/8 inch mortise.  Guide the chisel with the thumb and forefinger of your non-dominant hand as you work it into the chips.  Then, still lightly pinching the chisel, rest your non-dominant forefinger on the board and use it as fulcrum as you lever the waste out of the hole.  The chisel should not touch the end of the mortise if you do this correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T20:39:14.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4665" CreationDate="2016-09-27T21:13:19.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wound up cutting the joint with a reciprocating saw using a blade with a lot of teeth. The blade is much thinner than even a thin-kerf table saw blade, which means I lost less material. Given that my table saw is not very big, the piece is very big, and the piece is very heavy, I just didn't feel comfortable running it over the table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cut wasn't entirely straight, but nothing a little bit of planing and sanding didn't clear up. The headboard is only ~1/16&quot; narrower than the footboard now, which won't be noticeable, so I consider this a success&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T21:13:19.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4722" CreationDate="2016-09-27T22:55:19.530" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Others have covered the looking well, but I find touching is a helpful addition to develop intuition. For example, when sharpening knives I know by running my thumb over the edge sideways if it is 'sharp enough'. A sharp edge will vibrate from your fingerprints - a knife for example will also 'sing' if this is done quickly when sharp. A blunt edge feels slippery by comparison. As far as I can tell the friction increases with sharpness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2755" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T22:55:19.530" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4722" CreationDate="2016-09-28T08:31:32.613" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How do I establish, when looking at a tool, what grit to start the sharpening process on? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really you don't need to think about it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice you generally don't need to assess your edge, you can just sharpen the tool &quot;as normal&quot; because it will have blunted approximately equally each time&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. This is pretty much the norm for working woodworkers and has been standard workshop practice for maybe the last couple of centuries, so no need to buck the trend :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that can help a lot with this is not waiting for your tools to get blunt in the first place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Little and often&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This approach doesn't get stressed enough in sharpening guides, especially today and in online guides. It's common among carvers and some whittlers to keep their tools razor-sharp (literally) by regular 'top-up sharpening', generally by stropping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stropping is great for top-up sharpening because it's very fast and effective &lt;em&gt;IF&lt;/em&gt; you haven't left it too long, 20-30 seconds to get back to shaving-sharp from a little blunt. So there is a lot to be said for adopting the same policy with plane irons and bench chisels also. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can of course do the job on stones/plates if you prefer not to strop, but it's a little more difficult to do it as quickly! Still aim to be back at work in under three minutes. Worth bearing in mind also is that it's not always necessary to use your finest stones just because they're there&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might find some of these previous Answers useful to read over, in part to keep sharpening distinct from honing in your head (both sharpening tasks but usefully separated sometimes):&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1963/sharpening-grits-naming-and-selection/1965#1965&quot;&gt;Sharpening grits -- naming and selection&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2076/what-criteria-would-want-me-to-bevel-my-chisel-in-a-certain-way/2079#2079&quot;&gt;What criteria would want me to bevel my chisel in a certain way&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2398/how-does-one-aggressively-sharpen-chisels-and-plane-irons-when-damaged/2401#2401&quot;&gt;How does one aggressively sharpen chisels and plane irons when damaged?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; This obviously assumes there hasn't been any edge damage, which might happen from a tool being dropped or from contact with a particularly hard knot, where minor folding or chips can occur. In this case you would need to sharpen more aggressively, but this is of course rare in day-to-day woodworking for most of us.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; We should remember that it was common in the past for there to be a couple of oilstones (sometimes only one!) and &lt;em&gt;maybe&lt;/em&gt; a strop to be the sum total of each woodworker's sharpening equipment. The problem these days is that so many of us leisure woodworkers are over-supplied with stones and plates to pick from, especially at the stupidly high end, when all most of us actually need for general honing duties is one combination stone (or individual medium and fine stones) and either a strop or a very fine stone when you need an edge to be more refined, very useful on chisels but with plane irons very much not always necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a plane iron you can work with an edge straight from 250 grit paper as Paul Sellers has commented on in one or two of his videos, which closely equates with some of the edges achieved in the past..... and we have only to look at old furniture made in workshops from these eras to see what those edges could do, an excellent practical illustration of what is &lt;em&gt;good enough&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-09-29T06:01:41.980" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4715" CreationDate="2016-09-28T08:47:55.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are factory edges of plywood straight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. No. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in general you can trust the edges to be straight (and the corners to be square) but &lt;em&gt;never assume they are&lt;/em&gt;, check they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How straight the edges remain depends on many factors, not least of which are what has happened to the plywood since it was made, including storage conditions, handling and stacking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-09-28T08:47:55.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4716" CreationDate="2016-09-28T09:17:36.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the hardwood dealer can't get straight, flat boards with their presumably bigger and better machines&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not about the machines, it's about the wood. Wood is inherently prone to warping because A) it's wood B) every piece is different C) it takes on and loses moisture from the surface so moisture content within the material is rarely completely uniform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't underestimate B here, literally every piece of wood you handle for the rest of your life will be somewhat individual. Only quarter-sawn boards that have been well dried can be anything like uniform in the way they behave but even with that there can be some surprises. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;how flat and straight can I get them at home with a smaller jointer and planer? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very flat and very straight. For about five minutes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jokes aside you can get your wood &lt;em&gt;perfect&lt;/em&gt; and return to it in just a few hours to find it was &quot;warped off&quot;. Some woodworkers like to keep their freshly milled stuff in plastic bags, wrapped in a plastic sheet or immediately sticker it (stacked with spacer sticks) &lt;em&gt;with weight on top&lt;/em&gt; to help prevent or minimise this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that the longer a piece of wood is the more pronounced the warp can be, but sort of on the flipside you should &lt;em&gt;keep wood as long as possible for as long as possible&lt;/em&gt; as the old saying goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are some wood species more apt to warp than others (I was looking at poplar)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. Modern commercially-grown softwood is very prone to warping because the trees are grown as quickly as possible and the wood is consequently weaker, and there's not much concern given to how uniform and good it is except in terms of how it matches the written grading standards, which are mainly about straightness of grain and frequency of knots and tell you nothing about how well it was dried in the kiln. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hardwoods are/can be different because people want to do more important things with hardwood so more care can be taken with it, but some yards take more care than others and unfortunate exposure to weather conditions (not through poor storage, just a bit of bad luck, e.g. a spell of bad weather) can and will affect wood that was otherwise destined to be a little better than it ended up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But remember that the individual nature of each piece can always assert itself, lovely straight-grained boards from a straight tree will always tend to be more stable than boards with any sort of irregular grain taken from bent or twisted trees (of any species). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-09-28T09:17:36.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4706" CreationDate="2016-09-28T09:57:14.350" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So from what I understand, this is the process of finishing wood (excluding the sanding part). Stain, then apply finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK first thing, you don't &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; to stain, it is by no means a necessary step and many people prefer not to do it for any one of a number of reasons. All woods can be used as they are, hardwoods in particular are often valued for their natural colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that that you don't need to stain as a separate step, if you use a coloured varnish or &quot;gel stain&quot; (despite its name this is a gelled coloured varnish, not actually stain in the conventional sense). This is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; a recommendation for either BTW, just mentioning it. Colouring the wood then applying a topcoat is often the best way to go, but with some woods (softwoods like pine especially) you'll often get better results if you don't try to dye or stain the wood itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;And the finish that I can choose from are shellac, polyurethane, lacquer and varnish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many more options than these, including paint of course, oil, hybrid or mixed finishes (includes &quot;Danish oil&quot; and &quot;Tung Oil Finish&quot;), wax and last but by no means least not using any finish at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that polyurethane shouldn't be separated from varnish. Polyurethane is a varnish. This is oil-based poly I'm referring to here, the waterbased version is a completely different type of thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Now I'm confused on which to use as a beginner in woodworking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Easy to get confused in this area! One of the simplest things you can do is just pick a finish, only one, and try it out a few times to see how you get on with it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Nearly anything is good enough for most things in the home.&lt;/em&gt; This doesn't get stated often enough. So really it doesn't make much difference what you go with in many cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a recommendation I would pick oil-based polyurethane as it's a very useful and versatile finish — can be used from anything from a dining table to a salad bowl, from a kitchen counter to a jewellery box — and even a cheap one is capable of giving a good finish. Buy the gloss version, you can always reduce the shine afterwards if you desire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Oh and also from many furnitures I've seen before, there's ugly brush strokes on the finishes, is there anyway I can prevent it and have a smooth finish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Practice really does help, although you should start with reading a few good guides to technique first because there are numerous helpful hints, e.g. 'tipping off'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But beyond brushes wiping a finish on can help a huge amount compared to using a brush to apply it. The type of finish matters here, you'd never normally wipe on lacquer! And all waterbased finishes are generally not applied by wiping because it can tend to promote bubbles in the finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rollers and paint pads are definitely also worth trying at some point in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost all finishes can be applied by spraying, through many different types of spray equipment including cheap airless sprayers, and will tend to give good results with some experimentation and practice. But be careful spraying any finish that has solvent in it inside the home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the topic of finishing is so broad if you have any follow-on questions about specific finishes or how to apply them it would be best to ask a fresh Question about each. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually search first, then ask if you can't find anything in the existing Q&amp;amp;As. There are quite a few Questions already on finishing with numerous good Answers that you can learn a lot from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-09-28T09:57:14.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4739" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-28T16:02:34.747" Score="4" ViewCount="2292" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have some very old white wood stain, it takes like sixteen hours to dry. Is it possible to apply some turpentine to it to speed the drying time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seeing that is what they put in oil base paint to allow it to dry faster.  Just a thought as I hate having to wait a full day before finishing a project.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2757" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-09-30T03:41:43.360" LastActivityDate="2016-09-30T03:41:43.360" Title="Can I use turpentine as a drying agent?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4739" CreationDate="2016-09-28T18:20:08.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Neither turpentine nor any other solvent will help anything dry faster. They only reduce the viscosity of the liquid, facilitating a thinner coating application. Thinner coats can dry faster, but to get the protection you want, you'd have to add more coats. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better question might be if you can use japan drier to revive this and get it to dry faster...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2016-09-28T18:20:08.347" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4739" CreationDate="2016-09-29T05:48:33.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Seeing that is what they put in oil base paint to allow it to dry faster&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turpentine doesn't promote drying that you'd notice. Although old guides frequently state that it does the effect is so marginal in practice that the effect might as well be imaginary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What dilution does to is help to deposit a thinner layer or coating, which of course dries more quickly than something thicker. This gives the illusion that the thinning agent has promoted drying and this effect is commonly mistaken for an acceleration of drying. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems evident that your oil stain is past its best as 16 hours to dry is a long time, but TBH that's not completely outside the drying range for products of this type depending on conditions. However, if you want to try to speed the drying of what you have this should be achievable using liquid driers (AKA terebine), although I don't know how easily you can get a product like this where you live&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I hate having to wait a full day before finishing a project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obvious piece of advice is to get new stain, but because this is white stain you can try doing the effect a different way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any white paint suitably thinned will give a similar (perhaps even identical) effect, with a much shorter drying time. If your projects are small enough that using a waterbased product would work your drying time could be as little as 15 minutes, although you should wait for complete drying for a couple of hours before continuing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;If you're in California I imagine it's impossible (on two fronts, these products are very high in VOCs and also contains toxic heavy metals) and I don't know what the regs are like elsewhere. Where I am they're available on the shelves of any good paint supplier and some hardware stores, but in other places it may be stocked only behind the counter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-09-29T05:48:33.993" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4723" CreationDate="2016-09-29T09:34:39.857" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paul Sellers is a master craftsman, author of several books and some very good video tutorials.  He does several on cutting mortises - this one probably being most relevant to this topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LPBkO2chZxk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LPBkO2chZxk&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've learned a lot from watching his videos, still dont have the skill to implement the lessons very well as yet - very much a novice at this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1637" LastActivityDate="2016-09-29T09:34:39.857" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4723" CreationDate="2016-09-30T02:50:53.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/3769/128&quot;&gt;Borrowing from my own answer about this very topic&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Auger Bits&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether you are going for traditional techniques or powered/hand hybrid auger bits would be a tool of choice for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using auger bits that are the exact width of you hole you are trying to make, in a brace and bit or drill, you can easily remove waste and not have to worry about going &amp;quot;outside the lines&amp;quot;. Stagger the holes and you will get a similar shape like that of the ones you have pictured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0NNiC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0NNiC.png&quot; alt=&quot;Mortise in progress&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://ck-projects.blogspot.ca/2013/06/roubo-style-workbench-part-six.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chris' Project Page&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see from the above image (mortise in a workbench) most of the wood was removed with auger bit. The screw tip and the shape help to naturally create straight holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm really looking for a technique which allows me to reliably clear the debris without risking damage&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be careful when/if you are exiting out the other side. To mitigate damage you can&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Used waste/scrap wood (clamp well)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Count the rotations it takes until the screw (eye) just shows proud on the other side (A Roy Underhill suggestion).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mark the depth of your bits using masking tape.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Feel for the screw/eye coming out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of those suggestions will work in tandem. This way you can turn the work over and have cleaner edges on the outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2016-09-30T02:50:53.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4728" CreationDate="2016-09-30T03:00:21.437" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;On top of other concerns given in comments and answers like inevitable rot I would be concerned about your winter climate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be more worried about something like ice forming in those area and putting pressure where it was not meant to be. While doubtful of its significance there could be the potential of causing damage from expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the project you don't really need to do much to fill it. Plug cutters should get you a tight fit. I made a sandbox for my kids and used indoor glue (I know!) and cedar dust to fill the holes. Still looks good after 4 years.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2016-09-30T03:00:21.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3215" CreationDate="2016-09-30T19:01:54.437" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first thought when reading this was to create a stop to prevent the sled from going far enough for the blade to emerge as well. I like the handle idea above, but I also think a stop safety would be ideal as well. I would think something as simple as a piece of wood that hangs down and catches that back edge of the table saw top right where it needs to stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastActivityDate="2016-09-30T19:01:54.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4746" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4748" CreationDate="2016-10-01T02:55:02.527" Score="11" ViewCount="17164" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a kind of a nut or threaded insert that can be embedded in wood so that it will accept a machine screw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2016-10-01T08:50:21.200" Title="Embedded nut for using machine screws?" Tags="|screws|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4746" CreationDate="2016-10-01T04:12:16.797" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several kinds of embedded nuts, depending on where and how you want to mount them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Threaded inserts screw into a drilled hole and have threads on the inside to accept a bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;T nuts&quot; insert into a drilled hole from the back, anchoring themselves in place with a spurred plate that can't be pulled through and resists twisting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Barrel nuts insert from the side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are probably others I'm not thinking of right now. A good woodworking supply store should have most of these in a number of sizes; a good hardware store should at least have some.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-10-01T04:12:16.797" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4746" CreationDate="2016-10-01T08:50:21.200" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Face mounting&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A standard hex nut (or a square one if available) can be inlet into the surface of a board to accept a machine screw or bolt coming in from the other side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally when face-mounted a hex-shaped hole is made, either by drilling the bulk of the waste out first with a suitable bit&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; and then finishing off with a chisel, or entirely by chiselling:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4XsR3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4XsR3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hex nut inlet&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://davidboefffurnituremaker.blogspot.come/2015/07/building-moxon-vise-with-benchcrafted.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;David Boeff&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Square nuts obviously show their advantage here as the recess if much easier to cut out with a chisel. However, when using hex nuts some guides suggest it is better practice not to cut a hexagonal recess for them but instead to drill a hole the spanner size (i.e. the measurement across the flats) and then to force the nut into the hole&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that these are intended to be mounted on the &lt;em&gt;opposite face of a board&lt;/em&gt;, otherwise they would simply be pulled free as the screw force is applied. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where you need to face mount on the front side of a board the solution is often T-nuts, which are hammered or forced into the wood. They won't win any awards for discretion or attractiveness so best used where they can't be seen or on utilitarian pieces:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Zc0E.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Zc0E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;T-nuts&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that T-nuts normally sit slightly proud of the surface as at A above, but can be mounted flush where needed by seating into a shallow drilled recess as at B.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last but not least, threaded inserts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v6Pi9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v6Pi9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Threaded inserts&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are designed to thread into the wood usually but some only have flanges on the outside, not a thread. This type are either forced into a suitably sized hole or epoxied in place. If using epoxy be sure to thoroughly degrease the insert beforehand as they may retain some grease from manufacture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Threaded inserts can be a bear to install straight, there are various tips to help and one of the standard ones uses a drill press as shown &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/q-installing-threaded-inserts&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; on Popular Woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cross mounting&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Another way a standard nut can be used is to inset it from the side of a member, basically you cut a shallow (usually stopped) mortise that intersects the pre-drilled hole the screw/bolt will go through. This is used on bed frames and for the leg-to-stretcher joint on some workbenches and large tables or benches with knockdown construction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option here is to use a wing nut:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/15rHP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/15rHP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wing nut for leg bolt&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/fridays-tip-for-december-27th&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Popular Woodworking&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this same kind of mounting a barrel nut can be used instead and being cylindrical they simply slip into a drilled hole:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2zHqg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2zHqg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Barrel nut installation&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Barrel nuts tend to be much more expensive than you'd guess so expect some sticker shock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; A Forstner is a good choice but a sharp spade/flat bit will do the job. If the spade bit has spurs on the outside edges the bottom of the hole won't be totally flat but it's not a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Nuts can be forced in using clamp pressure, a vice or by using the screwing force of the nut and screw themselves. Another method, giving very good accuracy, is to use the drill press much as explained above in the Popular Woodworking link relating to threaded inserts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that forcing nuts in can take considerable pressure, especially on hardwoods obviously, and this can over-stress a standard woodworking vice so caution is advised if you want to do it that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-10-01T08:50:21.200" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3938" CreationDate="2016-10-01T19:08:51.503" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My thinking is that there may be a combination of things going on here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, I would agree with @bowlturner that the different wood species used could be contributing.  Given that cedar takes up moisture and expands twice as much as maple or oak.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, the reality that there is nearby rot so moisture is being taken up even more in nearby wood and then hyrdospopically wicking over to a larger degree to the area where the plugs are installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, freeze-thaw activity may be exacerbated by there being higher moisture in the area given the huge 9% expansion of water into ice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your #7 example with no cracking so close to all that extra rot would contraindicatre my second point and the reality that some but not all are cracking is also something that remains condfusing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So one final idea here is that the mold is involved. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending upon how and where the mold spores landed and were spread during the installation process could have an effect on future mold growth. Even slight growth around areas such as the edge of the plugs could have caused a different outcome for glue sticking and later moisture take up.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tests done with molds and bateria show that they act like sticky paint that we cannot readily see and so it can be spread around in ways that we cannot see and dont really know we are doing  - and they do not spread consistently from one area to another. Based on how the drilling, tool cleaning and overall installation process went hole to hole could have introduced inconsistent effects later on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2766" LastActivityDate="2016-10-01T19:08:51.503" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4750" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4751" CreationDate="2016-10-02T07:21:59.043" Score="3" ViewCount="1617" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a large container for plants, made of pine. Considering that the inside will be in direct permanent contact with moist earth, what is an appropriate treatment to prevent wood deterioration? Would a heavy-duty varnish (e.g., spar varnish) be a good choice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2764" LastEditorUserId="2764" LastEditDate="2016-10-02T08:43:40.493" LastActivityDate="2016-10-06T12:54:21.533" Title="Protecting wooden plant pot from water damage" Tags="|varnish|water-protection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4750" CreationDate="2016-10-02T08:14:26.310" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would a high-duty varnish (e.g., spar varnish) be a good choice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory yes. In a thick enough coating (numerous full-strength coats) with no voids or pinholes, a varnish like this is essentially waterproof. It could last a long time in this setting although I don't know how the direct soil contact will affect it, to find that out you'd probably be best contacting one of the companies that make varnish and see what they have to say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd get better performance from day one from using an epoxy coating of some kind. They're stronger, more waterproof but unfortunately tend to be quite a bit more expensive than varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get 100% waterproofing very simply just line with plastic! I would personally do this in addition to treating the interior, just to be on the safe side, but the plastic alone could provide complete protection to the wood if you're careful. Of course you do still need to concern yourself with the top edges and the exterior if you're using common 2x pine to build this, it is not at all a naturally rot-resistant species.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-10-02T08:14:26.310" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4752" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4755" CreationDate="2016-10-02T12:55:00.223" Score="3" ViewCount="11342" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having purchased a trim router just recently, I'm practicing some simple woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the moment, I have a 4 feet x 4 feet plywood board (3/4 inch thick) that I want to separate into 4 square pieces of 2 feet x 2 feet (approximately, plus or minus an inch-ish accountable to kerf).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I go for it with the router using a Straight bit like &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z4Tuq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;? If so, how do I cut so deep as the board thickness (3/4 inch)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2767" LastActivityDate="2016-10-04T11:07:31.987" Title="How to use a router to cut a thick wood board" Tags="|router|router-bit|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4752" CreationDate="2016-10-02T14:32:25.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Routers are great for shaping corners and edges, or cutting recesses into a surface, but are generally not the optimal choice for through cuts except template-guided ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a reason you aren't using a saw for this task? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-10-02T14:32:25.343" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4754" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4761" CreationDate="2016-10-02T15:26:17.580" Score="8" ViewCount="5242" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this poplar hobby wood that has price tag stickers on it.  When I am peeling them off, they kind of tear, and of course it seems to leaving a residue behind when portions do come off.  How can I get these price tag stickers off in a way that the wood will okay to take stain in those places?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2768" LastActivityDate="2016-10-03T07:32:11.493" Title="How to remove sticker price tags from wood without leaving residue" Tags="|surface-preparation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4752" CreationDate="2016-10-02T15:38:07.517" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are in a pinch and your router has a plunge base, you certainly could cut all the way through the plywood with a spiral or straight bit, using a straightedge and cutting in 1/8&quot; deep passes. Make sure you have sacrificial material on the underside so you don't cut into your workbench or floor on the last pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, the work will go a lot faster and easier with a table saw or &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/q/63/49&quot;&gt;circular saw&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-10-02T15:38:07.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4754" CreationDate="2016-10-02T15:47:35.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Guide a razor blade along the lifting edge of the sticker as you peel it off. This will usually get most of the adhesive. If you have remains of a sticker left, you can skim off most of the residue and sticker remains with a razor blade or sharp chisel, being careful not to gouge into the surface or cut through the top veneer if working with plywood or other veneered material.  Afterward, sand the entire surface lightly with a fine grit so the surface takes stain uniformly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2016-10-02T15:47:35.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4754" CreationDate="2016-10-02T18:23:28.757" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd use mineral spirits or another solvent (lacquer thinner, denatured alcohol, etc.) to remove the residue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should verify compatibility with your finishing product before use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2016-10-02T18:23:28.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3215" CreationDate="2016-10-02T18:58:33.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paint the parts you shouldn't touch.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glue awkward wooden pieces or sharp soda can aluminium pieces on the parts you shouldn't touch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make the parts you &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; touch natural to touch, like with a handle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put soda can aluminium pieces loosely where the blade goes too far. Applied correctly they should make a noise but are to soft to damage the saw teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fill the &lt;em&gt;optional blade guard&lt;/em&gt; with tooth picks. They will shoot out when the blade hits and you will get a tingling feeling in your stomach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastActivityDate="2016-10-02T18:58:33.993" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4754" CreationDate="2016-10-02T20:09:35.153" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A cabinet scraper might be another solution, removing the wood the glue adhered to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-10-02T20:09:35.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4754" CreationDate="2016-10-03T07:32:11.493" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How can I get these price tag stickers off in a way &lt;strong&gt;that the wood will okay to take stain in those places&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re. the highlighted portion, you shouldn't need to worry about that because the surface of the wood should be worked enough that this stops being a concern — it's good practice never to attempt to stain, or otherwise finish&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, any wood bought pre-dimensioned without at least doing something to prep the surface (these days usually light sanding). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the sticker residue, scraping should get most or all of it off. This can be done using a card scraper, any sharp blade or the long edges of a chisel, whatever works best for you..... or whichever happens to be closest :-) Any traces remaining will be dealt with when you surface the wood, either by planing, scraping or sanding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: although the right solvent&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; will deal with 99% of sticker residues if you use this as the only step on wood there's a risk some of the dissolved adhesive will soak into the surface wood fibres, which will act as a 'resist' (stain-blocker). This can sometimes be visible even if only varnishing. So physical or abrasive means are the right call here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; This includes primer or paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Usually either mineral spirits &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; denatured alcohol (UK: white spirit or methylated spirits).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-10-03T07:32:11.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4762" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4820" CreationDate="2016-10-03T14:03:46.677" Score="2" ViewCount="354" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a beginner, I've recently taken up woodworking as a hobby.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a hardpoint tenon saw that I'm just not getting on with.   It sticks a lot in the (primarily soft) wood I'm working with.   I have a multipurpose hardpoint panel saw that works well, but I won't be using that for joinery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my plan is to buy a couple of backsaws: one rip-cut tenon saw, and one dovetail saw (either cross-cut or, if the teeth are fine, rip-cut is likely OK).   Does this sound like a good plan?   I like the look of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flinn-garlick-saws.co.uk/acatalog/PAX-BRAND.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pax saws&lt;/a&gt; but their dovetail saws are 20tpi.   I'm concerned that I wouldn't be able to hand-sharpen the teeth of a 20tpi saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please criticise and improve my plan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2557" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T20:56:29.870" Title="First two backsaws - what to choose/buy?" Tags="|joinery|sharpening|hand-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4763" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-03T15:26:59.897" Score="4" ViewCount="1301" Body="&lt;p&gt;I decided to buy a #4 bench plane on eBay but, as it turns out, I've been a bit over-zealous with the bidding.  I might end up with as many as four #4 planes.   I also have some longer planes (but the 4s are the only dupes). I'm planning to refurbish all of them (even if only to keep the one that turns out best).   I then need to decide what to do with them all.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Giving them away and selling them are clearly options.  But, supposing I don't do that, what are the different ways I can tune or set up #4 planes to suit a range of purposes?   If I have several, after all, I may as well try to get them to serve a variety of needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2557" LastActivityDate="2016-10-04T08:56:06.407" Title="Different ways to set up a Number 4 bench plane" Tags="|plane|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4763" CreationDate="2016-10-03T15:41:25.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;like a scrub with a cambered iron and wide mouth. It's a little wide for a scrub, and will be a little heavy as a consequence, but it'll certainly work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;with a very tight mouth and very closely set chip breaker for finish planing difficult woods.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;general purpose smoothing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;for use in a shooting board. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paul Sellers uses a #4 for almost everything. It's a versatile size. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2016-10-03T15:41:25.073" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4765" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4767" CreationDate="2016-10-04T04:12:23.657" Score="3" ViewCount="3288" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a bench/coatrack for my entryway, and I'd like the bench to have a flip top lid that stays open and possibly has a soft close (soft close not a deal breaker). I'd like the rear of the lid to be as close to the wall as possible, so I'm looking for a hinge system that will make the rear of the lid kick back as little as possible. Hinges like this will be a problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of using a system like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WbBKH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WbBKH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://www.thehardwarehut.com/images/cabinet_lid_stays/sug-nsdx-20.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use this hinge for the spring assisted part instead of the one pictured?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MxJou.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MxJou.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://m.lowes.com/pd/Gatehouse-Gold-Cabinet-Lid-Support/3355536&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also what kind of hinge is pictured in the solution I'm thinking of using (not the assisted hinge but the other one)? How much clearance will it need in back? Is there a better solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks a million in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2774" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2016-10-04T13:37:45.723" LastActivityDate="2016-10-04T13:44:25.493" Title="No rear clearance spring assisted lid hinge system" Tags="|furniture|hinges|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4763" CreationDate="2016-10-04T08:56:06.407" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;One of them should be set up as a smoother obviously, but you can set up smoothing planes to two approximate levels. So if you do end up getting four consider tuning one (as much as necessary&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;) to make it into a &lt;strong&gt;super-smoother&lt;/strong&gt;, and for the other just as a &lt;strong&gt;everyday smoother&lt;/strong&gt;, for jobs where the requirements aren't quite so critical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that &lt;em&gt;both of these duties can be done by the same no. 4&lt;/em&gt;, and they frequently are of course because it requires only a slight change in settings (possibly less than a minute's work) to change a well-tuned smoothing plane from 'general smoothing' mode into super-smoother mode&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scrub plane&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;roughing plane&lt;/strong&gt;. Quite frankly this is a waste of any no. 4 in good condition, and there are other planes that are arguably better candidates for the transition to scrub/roughing duties&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;, but it is something that you can do and on some planes it won't involve doing anything to the plane that can't be reversed or will harm its future use as a smoothing plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The transition is easily accomplished by putting a distinct radius on the iron, backing up the cap iron/chipbreaker well away from the cutting edge and adjusting for a fairly healthy cut. The curved cutting edge will mean that although you're taking a really thick shaving it will taper out to nothing towards the edges, greatly reducing the effort needed to push through the cut. Also, when rough-planing the plane is often used straight across or diagonally which greatly reduces the resistance from the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A dedicated &lt;strong&gt;edge-jointer&lt;/strong&gt; is the only other conversion I can think of that involves a major change to the plane or how its set up, rendering it unsuited to other duties unless some alterations are done. In addition to possibly changing the edge profile on the iron (absolutely straight) you can install a user-made fence to help plane square to the face of the board:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9i55E.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9i55E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Jointing fences on planes&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past these were usually attached by drilling holes in the cheek as on the oldest one above, at bottom right, but today with the easy availability of rare-earth magnets we can avoid having to do that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IjFDI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IjFDI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Jointing fences from the back showing magnets&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However note that this is probably best done using a longer plane, at least a 5 if not a 6 or 7, but the scale of the work does somewhat determine whether a plane the size of a 4 is long enough. And anyway it is always possible to joint a board edge far longer than the plane body, even working freehand, with a bit of skill, some practice and constant checking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an alternative to this you might consider permanently installing one in a DIY jointer such as the last one here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2484/methods-of-jointing-without-a-jointer/2487#2487&quot;&gt;Methods of jointing without a jointer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; See &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4133/fettling-a-hand-plane/4150#4150&quot;&gt;Fettling a hand plane&lt;/a&gt; for some on this. Ask a separate Question if you need specific fettling input relevant to the planes you buy. And if you'd like to do additional steps for the super-smoother for use on hardwoods with the most difficult grain (which broadly speaking pose the greatest challenge to plane without tearout).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also find this a useful read: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2470/what-makes-a-high-quality-bench-plane/2473#2473&quot;&gt;What makes a high quality bench plane?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Usually a good idea to freshly hone the iron, or give it a good strop, before doing some critical smoothing work. Then simply move the cap iron/chipbreaker closer to the edge, &amp;quot;as close as you dare&amp;quot; as Chris Schwarz puts it. In practice this will be under 1/64&amp;quot; (0.4mm). BTW don't try to measure it, it's hard to do in the first place and also better to learn to do it by sight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are the only two things necessary in a double-iron plane to improve planing results in a plane that is tuned well, &lt;em&gt;there is no need to also close the mouth in a double-iron plane&lt;/em&gt; and in fact it can directly lead to issues with clogging, which is a problem that can have even experienced users pulling their hair out trying to resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; The two best starting points are generally considered to be a coffin smoother or similar-sized wooden plane, for easy running and lightness, or a wooden jack plane or similar-sized metal plane (usually a 5) for a bit of heft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2016-10-04T08:56:06.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4765" CreationDate="2016-10-04T10:52:45.020" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are going to use a lid stay, similar to the first link, then I would use a european stile cabinet hinge, which is what is shown in the picture as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend a soft close lid stay like this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yZXj9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yZXj9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/soft-down-lid-support&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Soft Close Lid Stay&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a hinge like this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AtBpK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AtBpK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/blumreg-120deg-overlay-clip-top-3-way-face-frame-hinges-hinges&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blum Clip Top Hinge&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will allow you to open the top up against a wall, and this type of hinge should allow for up to an 11/16&quot; overlay, so if you have a 3/4&quot; box back, it will leave 1/16&quot; reveal at the wall, and will not rub when opening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2016-10-04T13:44:25.493" LastActivityDate="2016-10-04T13:44:25.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4752" CreationDate="2016-10-04T11:07:31.987" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something else to always consider when using routers is that the bit is rotating perpendicular to what a saw blade would be, so when making a linear cut like you are describing, you would be surrounding the bit with material, forcing it to cut essentially on three sides. This is very taxing on both the bit and the router, and can be dangerous if you aren't used to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a table saw, or a very good circular saw, you can use a jigsaw or handsaw to break down the wood into rough sizes (maybe 1/16&quot;-1/8&quot; oversize) and then use a straight edge and your router with a flush trim bit or a collar to get a clean and straight cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Routers are very versatile and useful tools when used right, but very dangerous and can lead to disappointing results when not used right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastActivityDate="2016-10-04T11:07:31.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4770" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-04T20:21:11.797" Score="1" ViewCount="169" Body="&lt;p&gt;From a smooth lacquered finish like this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KcKxQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KcKxQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Nexera Platform Bed&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To a high gloss like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L9BUT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L9BUT.png&quot; alt=&quot;IKEA Kitchen Cabinet&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would I get create a finish like the picture above when starting with a smooth lacquer finished piece of furniture (i.e. IKEA Malm wooden furniture)? I know it is a multiple step process but I don't know what the best approach is. What tools/products would you need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a beginner to diy home improvement so any small tips/steps would be extremely helpful!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2776" LastEditorUserId="2264" LastEditDate="2016-10-05T14:35:58.293" LastActivityDate="2016-10-05T14:35:58.293" Title="How would you create a high gloss finish on furniture?" Tags="|finishing|sanding|paint|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-10-05T14:35:07.773" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4771" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-05T08:27:12.390" Score="1" ViewCount="399" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to make half lap joints using Dremell 231 Shaper/Router Table.&#xA;I need to cut away 5 mm depth  40x40 mm from a 10 x 40 mm wood rood (450mm length)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cXhCk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cXhCk.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I'm unable to keep a consistent depth, and straight margin. &#xA;What would be the appropriate technique to be used for that ? What other tools should I use ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the &quot;router table&quot; I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jjZ5P.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jjZ5P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional information: wood is beech.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to make a frame that it's going to be embedded in a drywall, with a lip that will be flush with the drywall, so the joins need to be precise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T6yv3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T6yv3.png&quot; alt=&quot;Drywall and joins&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2780" LastEditorUserId="2780" LastEditDate="2016-10-06T09:22:17.130" LastActivityDate="2016-10-06T09:22:17.130" Title="Half lap joints with Dremell 231 Shaper/Router Table" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4771" CreationDate="2016-10-05T12:19:49.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically half-laps are cut with a saw followed if necessary by a plane or chisel to fine-tune, not a router. The wrong power tool is not an improvement over the right hand tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, getting an even router cut over a large area is a matter of consistent handling, consistent pressure, etc. Wood is flexible; you need to keep it from moving and/or make sure the tool moves with it.  That may need improved technique; it may need feather boards, it may need a jig, depending on size of the work piece and exactly what you are doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2016-10-05T14:41:43.423" LastActivityDate="2016-10-05T14:41:43.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4775" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-05T19:33:43.813" Score="3" ViewCount="7986" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen a lot of jigs to do edge jointing on a table saw or router, including &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2484/methods-of-jointing-without-a-jointer&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;. I haven't seen much for flattening one of the faces, though. If the board is narrow (less than ~3&quot;), I can run it on the freshly-jointed edge through my table saw and flatten and square the face that way. But what about wider boards? Hand planes would work, of course, but are there other methods using a table saw, router, and/or jigs like there are for edge jointing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2019-01-10T00:18:22.410" Title="Flattening the face of a board without using a jointer" Tags="|table-saw|router|jointer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4776" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4777" CreationDate="2016-10-05T20:07:29.630" Score="1" ViewCount="211" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a CNC machine with an aluminum t-slot table and I'm looking for some type of small vise that could be secured to the table to hold very small work pieces. We have a variety of hold-downs and cam locks for larger work pieces but they don't do a good job with tiny pieces. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The machine can only clear something about 4 inches tall and clamping a bench vise to the end of the table doesn't work because the gantry can't reach the end of the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2782" LastActivityDate="2017-02-09T20:28:20.030" Title="Looking for a type of vise that would fit on a cnc table" Tags="|clamps|vises|cnc|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4776" CreationDate="2016-10-05T21:31:59.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The obvious thought would be to clamp a clamp to the table -- perhaps a small wooden handscrew clamp, or something homebrewed from threaded rod or from bolts and threaded inserts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presumably you would want the jaws to be wood or some other sacrificial material, so if your programming goes outside the bounds of the piece being worked on, deliberately or by error, you don't destroy the bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2016-10-05T23:16:58.423" LastActivityDate="2016-10-05T23:16:58.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4775" CreationDate="2016-10-05T21:40:43.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are jigs which are used for flattening the face of large slabs, which are basically a rail on each side with a rigid beam bridging them to carry a router. As far as I know, the folks who use these follow up with jointer planes and winding sticks to make sure the surface is really flat without dips or twist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a planer, a jointing sled on the planer might be a suction. If you have a large drum sander, a simar sled on that might be worth trying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the size of the job and what you are starting with, going straight to a traditional jointer plane might be just as fast as any of the powered solutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-10-05T21:40:43.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4779" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4781" CreationDate="2016-10-06T01:42:55.437" Score="6" ViewCount="709" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the big differences between a drum sander and a thickness planer? The only thing I know is that the drum sander does not remove much material, but can do more area at a time. But the planer can remove a lot of material but lots of money would have to be invested to get a 24 inch. What are other big differences with them and Pros and cons for each other. That would be extremely useful!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2016-10-13T20:05:19.763" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T22:46:10.703" Title="What are the differences in use between a drum sander and thickness planer?" Tags="|sanding|thickness-planer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4780" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4782" CreationDate="2016-10-06T01:44:51.723" Score="5" ViewCount="233" Body="&lt;p&gt;I heard of something with snipe on a thickness planer. Is this something that they all will do? Is there a way to adjust the planer to keep that from happening? What techniques can be used to stop this on the piece that you are working on? Can this be a problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2018-12-17T06:39:52.037" Title="What is snipe on a thickness planer?" Tags="|thickness-planer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4779" CreationDate="2016-10-06T03:27:23.790" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're correct that the planer can remove much more material at a time. With the planer, it is also simple to adjust the depth for removing more material in a pass. With the drum sander, you can change the grit of the paper to take off more material (nowhere near as much as the planer) but that is a more painstaking process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I own a drum sander but no planer. I used to make acoustic guitars and work with figured wood. In this case the planer is of little use since it will take out chips where the grain angles up. The drum sander does not chip-out the stock and allows smooth and uniform surfacing of wood down to 2 mm thickness, even thinner if required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, preference rather depends on what you're doing. I've also used my drum sander to fashion oak window jambs and trim. It required more passes than a planer would have but I would have wanted the drumb sander for finishing anyway, I was happy with my choice of tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2762" LastEditorUserId="2762" LastEditDate="2016-10-06T18:02:17.833" LastActivityDate="2016-10-06T18:02:17.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4780" CreationDate="2016-10-06T04:16:52.733" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Snipe occurs when the leading or trailing edge of the board lifts a bit off the bed of the planer or the planer head, being supported only on one side if the cutters, drops a bit. The result is the last six inches or so of the board being cut more deeply than it/they should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of techniques to reduce/eliminate snipe, ranging from feeding boards through butted against each other so the head is supported more consistently, to lifting the far end of the board slightly so the feed roller pushes the board's end downward, to attaching sacrificial rails extending past the ends of the board to provide that support, to just letting the snipe occur and planning on not using the ends of the board at this thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-10-06T07:10:53.877" LastActivityDate="2016-10-06T07:10:53.877" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4775" CreationDate="2016-10-06T07:54:49.717" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possibly the best method to flatten the face of a board using power tools not specifically designed for that job is with a router mounted in a planing sled/levelling sled. There are abundant versions of this posted online so this is just a sample:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c7RB5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c7RB5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Router planing sleds&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It must be said though, this technique is perhaps best kept in reserve for major stock removal, e.g. taking out most or all of the bow or twist from particularly hard or gnarly woods, flattening wide boards or glue-ups and for slabs, not used for everyday flattening of stock. It can however be considered the go-to method for flattening the tops of stumps or trunk slices, and for conventional butcher blocks, where you're dealing with all end grain which is punishing to plane manually and dangerous to run through a thickness planer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to see these in action here are a few YouTube links:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TpU5dZlW2pg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Joint and Thickness-Plane with a Router&lt;/a&gt; from American Woodworker&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0SDvKHcL5M&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Flattening Boards with a Router Sled&lt;/a&gt; from Matt Cremona&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qtkBZHLJyD0&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;174 - Flattening Workbenches and Wide Boards With A Router&lt;/a&gt; from The Wood Whisperer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-10-06T07:54:49.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4776" CreationDate="2016-10-06T12:51:52.533" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a variety of options out there similar to what you are describing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the first two that come to mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/shopping/product/17797442219147683270?lsf=seller:1135568,store:5335595617185262782&amp;amp;prds=oid:8474090130417454004&amp;amp;q=T%20SLOT%20CLAMP&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;ei=H0j2V6TrBY6GjwOdkaGgCQ&amp;amp;lsft=gclid:CIaPxL2bxs8CFdKFfgodIF4Nlg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rockler Hold Down Clamp&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8yqI4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8yqI4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tnpla/64553852?src=pla&amp;amp;cid=PLA-Google-PLA%20-%20Test&amp;amp;CS_003=7867724&amp;amp;CS_010=64553852&amp;amp;mkwid=21owLOAB&amp;amp;gclid=CLqTkeCbxs8CFYFYfgod8WQOUg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bessey Hold Down&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/juudE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/juudE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastActivityDate="2016-10-06T12:51:52.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4750" CreationDate="2016-10-06T12:54:21.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could look into using cedar fence planks, which are usually readily available in nominal sizes in your home center garden department. Much more rot resistant than pine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastActivityDate="2016-10-06T12:54:21.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4786" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-06T18:40:45.563" Score="2" ViewCount="480" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I know the off-the-cuff answer is you cannot (or should not) use Indoor Rated Poly to weather proof wood as the sun's UV will discolor the wood and other issues visually. This wood though is being used to stack firewood and the way it looks doesn't matter at all. I have about 3/4 gallon of left over Poly and 3/4 Gallon wood stain. Both are indoor use. I'd rather just use those then go buy something new. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is can I just go ahead and stain/poly the wood and stack my firewood on top? Will it help? I'm using Douglass Fir wood.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have leftover exterior paint but I'd rather not paint the boards. Just a thought. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2784" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2016-10-07T13:02:41.877" LastActivityDate="2016-10-07T13:02:41.877" Title="Waterproofing Wood With Left Over Polyurethane (Aesthetics irrelevant to project)" Tags="|staining|water-protection|polyurethane|outdoor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4787" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-06T20:56:14.607" Score="4" ViewCount="893" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a nice desk top that is probably pine? that I want to turn into a desk. I bought two A shaped frames at IKEA to attach to the table top. I have no idea how to attach the table top to the frames without the screw or whatever I use to attach it showing through the desk top? Do i use a really long, heavy screw that can go through the A frame at an angle, but doesn't go all the way through the desk top? Please help; I am new to woodworking, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see this type of desk at: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pbteen.com/products/customize-it-simple-small-wood-desk-metal-a-frame/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.pbteen.com/products/customize-it-simple-small-wood-desk-metal-a-frame/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2785" LastActivityDate="2016-10-07T07:30:24.127" Title="How to attach a one inch thick table top to two A shaped frames that are two inches thick" Tags="|joinery|design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4775" CreationDate="2016-10-07T00:27:12.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two additional methods using a planer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Planer Sled&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is to make a jig consisting of a flat length of ply or mdf. Put the wood to be jointed on top, and use a series of wedges to &quot;level&quot; the bottom of the board and stop it rocking. (Double sided tape helps to keep them in place. Once ready you can pass the board through the planer as normal to make side level, then flip and level the other side. Picture below for clarity - but if you're going to try this I would recommend watching one of the many youtube videos demonstrating it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/evfxe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/evfxe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;jointing on planer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Handplane and Planer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other option is to use a handplane to roughly level the board. Contrary to popular opinion, a board doesn't have to be 100% perfectly jointed to run through a planer - particularly if it's thick or short.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use a hand plane to roughly level the board, making sure it sits roughly flat and fairly stable (ie doesn't rock). Once this is done, you can pass this through a planer, roughly flattened side down. When the top is planned flat and smooth, then flip again to level the other side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has worked well for me for wood up to about 3' or 4' in length. If I had need to flatten something longer I would probably try the sled method above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cheating&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mill a fair chunk of my own lumber - often this leaves me with wood less than 3' long, but about 2&quot; - 3&quot; thick.  Provided the milling left a reasonable surface I'll run it through the planer as is. The wood is  too thick and short to banana in the planer. The main thing to watch out for here is that the board is hitting the planer relatively level. If the bottom of the board is curved, the curve itself will lift up the board as it goes through, resulting in a non-flat bit of wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="282" LastEditorUserId="282" LastEditDate="2019-01-10T00:18:22.410" LastActivityDate="2019-01-10T00:18:22.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4787" CreationDate="2016-10-07T03:44:34.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You actually don't even need to attach them. A frames are designed to not tip over so two of them will just let your desk top lay on it without any problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However If you're going do some rough stuff on it i suggest you just buy some smaller screws. Measure to know the size. About half in your table top. Measure the screws in the store before you buy them.&#xA;Get a drill bit for pilot holes about as thick as the screws' middle. If you don't drill a hole first there is a good chance your A frames or tabletop will crack. Then use tape to match the depth of the pilot holes with the screws so you stop before you drill through the desktop. Then simply screw the screws in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also do it with dowels, divide the dowels in two, take a drill bit a tiny tiny bit smaller then your dowels use tape to determine depth. Drill the holes. Then put wood glue on it and assemble it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, i don't think you need to do all of that but that are some options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A simple solution to prevent sliding would be to screw some rubber things into the A frames, 2 for each frame will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2787" LastActivityDate="2016-10-07T03:44:34.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4787" CreationDate="2016-10-07T07:30:24.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are various ways this can be done, including screwing right through the frames into the tabletop as you asked about 9with a few tweaks). Probably the easiest solution for you will be to use what are called expansion plates, see image on the right in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2720/will-these-table-legs-support-this-table/2731#2731&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These will be screwed into the A-frames (two screws per) and then into the tabletop (one screw in each). You would often do the last step with the tabletop face-down on the floor (protect it from denting by laying it onto a blanket or similar) so that you don't have to crawl under and try to drive the screws in from underneath, which can be tricky to do properly and is anyway uncomfortable unless you're a contortionist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need four of these plates. They usually come with their own screws but if not you'll need to buy some. Don't be tempted to use drywall screws, they're a little too brittle to rely on for woodworking applications. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember the screws that will go upwards into the tabletop must be short enough not to poke through the top when driven home! You'd be amazed the number of times people have not taken this into account, even experienced woodworkers sometimes forget.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; if your top is made from solid wood and not a manmade board material with a veneer you'll need to use the slots that run &lt;em&gt;perpendicular&lt;/em&gt; to the grain, not the ones that run parallel to the grain (that would defeat the purpose of using these plates). If your board is plywood or another board material it doesn't matter which slots you use as the top won't expand and contract with changes in humidity the way that solid wood does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-10-07T07:30:24.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4786" CreationDate="2016-10-07T07:43:58.220" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interior varnish used outdoors will certainly work to protect wood in the short term, but I don't think it's the right way to go here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One reason is that a film finish like varnish will tend to transfer if pressed upon with significant force over an extended time. While that might be irrelevant to the wood being stacked it will peel varnish from the support, probably defeating the purpose of varnishing it in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're seeking a long-term solution to protect these fir supports from weather and decay, particularly if they're intended to be in direct contact with the ground, I'd suggest you use an old-timer's trick and soak them in &lt;strong&gt;used motor oil&lt;/strong&gt;. This can apparently protect even softwoods from decay for many decades. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd soak the wood for a good while (a few days at least, but a week or more wouldn't hurt if possible) to let the end grain drink up as much oil as it can, then wipe off the excess and put them to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-10-07T07:43:58.220" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4792" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-07T15:20:16.310" Score="1" ViewCount="162" Body="&lt;p&gt;What can I do to wood before and after finishing a project to ensure that it is very clean and as safe as possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know about you, but I wouldn't eat off my work bench. Sometimes the wood might have been in my garage for awhile, or I might not remember the source (was that something I found on the side of the road in someone's garbage?) What can I do to ensure that that cutting board or spatula or anything else that might get used in the kitchen is safe to touch food?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would apply not just to using a &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4023/process-for-food-safe-finishing&quot;&gt;food safe finish&lt;/a&gt;, but the unfinished piece as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2739" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-10-07T16:25:57.157" Title="How can I sanitize wood?" Tags="|safety|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4793" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4795" CreationDate="2016-10-07T16:21:55.850" Score="4" ViewCount="1663" Body="&lt;p&gt;When purchasing a thickness planer, what are some features that are essential? Some nice-to-haves? Anything that is just fluff, especially for a beginner woodworker?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see specs indicating the number of cutting heads / knives, the rotational speed, one- or two-speed, width, material thickness, and a whole lot more that's a bit overwhelming. Which of these are important? Is there a big difference between the &quot;portable&quot; or &quot;benchtop&quot; planers as compared to the big floor-standing models (I now know there is with table saws!)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a jointer, so the ability to use a planer sled to flatten faces of boards would be nice - is that just a function of the size of the opening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastActivityDate="2016-10-07T22:42:06.870" Title="What to look for when buying a thickness planer" Tags="|thickness-planer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4792" CreationDate="2016-10-07T16:25:57.157" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What can I do wood before and after finishing a project to ensure that it is very clean and as safe as possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plane or mill or sand through until you're in the fresh wood underneath the surface. That's about it, although you can scrub the wood down prior to this (ideally outside) if it's obviously dirty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some woods inherently are a bit of a problem here since they can themselves be a source of potential irritants (not everyone reacts, or to the same degree) or allergens (obviously ditto). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But wood can by and large be considered sterile beneath the surface as long as it doesn't have holes or fissures that would have allowed crud to get into the interior, which might contain anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Food-contact contamination in use&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As far as wood becoming contaminated with bacteria specifically, the usual concern with food-related applications (and not actual dirt) this seems to be a non-issue in practice as long as basic hygiene practices are observed. The main thing is to physically clean residue&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; from the surface by washing, the bacteria in the traces that remain (and there will be some) appear to be made inactive when the board/spoon/bowl dries out&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; before it is used again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Toxins/poisons on or in the wood before it was acquired&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is the major worry with found wood I feel. As far as I know there's no way to reliably identify this type contamination visually or with a simple test you can conduct at home. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood that may have been treated with preservative or that might have come into contact with dangerous chemicals in service should probably never be used for a project where it will come into direct contact with food, and even with a full coat of varnish or lacquer a cautious approach should be taken. It's &lt;em&gt;usually&lt;/em&gt; impossible to know what a pallet might have come into contact with during its former life..... this is why some kitchen projects posted online that utilise pallet wood make me shudder when I see them!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: this is ignoring the risk to the woodworker themselves when processing the wood, which may be the greater risk. This is primarily from using power tools and when sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; The primary worry being meat juices. Especially, but not exclusively, from raw meats (includes all seafood). However it should be noted that soil residue from raw unwashed vegetables should be very scrupulously separated from food-preparation surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; This is one of the arguments in favour of not finishing cutting boards, to retain the ability of the wood to dehydrate bacteria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-10-07T16:25:57.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4793" CreationDate="2016-10-07T19:20:19.840" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When purchasing a thickness planer, what are some features that are&#xA;  essential? Some nice-to-haves? Anything that is just fluff, especially&#xA;  for a beginner woodworker?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/q/1513/49&quot;&gt;type of cutterhead&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;knives: straight, spiral, or segmented; disposable vs. able to be sharpened&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;segmented cutterhead: spiral/v configuration, helical configuration; typically reduces tearout vs. straight knives&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;number of cutters - usually more cutters provide a smoother finish, given the same style of cutterhead and feed speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;speed of cutterhead - faster speed allows faster feed rate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;number of speeds - refers to the feed rate; faster for initial dimensioning, slower for smoother finish&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;width&lt;/strong&gt; - determines widest board you can plane&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;maximum height - determines thickest board or widest ganged-up boards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;infeed/outfeed tables&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;preferred, but on some lunchbox planers they are an add-on option&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;some have rollers instead of smooth tables--rollers potentially allow you to be pinched if you are careless&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;exhaust blower - some lunchbox planers have a blower to help prevent clogging&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;electrical requirements&lt;/strong&gt; (e.g., 240V vs 120V)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;price&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;size&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cut quality (see magazine reviews for head-to-head comparisons--but keep in mind you should not expect a finish-ready surface; better cut quality just means less scraping or sanding before finishing)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I see specs indicating the number of cutting heads / knives, the&#xA;  rotational speed, one- or two-speed, width, material thickness, and a&#xA;  whole lot more that's a bit overwhelming. Which of these are&#xA;  important?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All aspects are noteworthy in different ways, but at the end of the day, just a few features (as marked in bold above) will narrow your options dramatically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many models with straight knives can be upgraded with a spiral or helical cutterhead.  Typically knives are HSS (high speed steel) and require periodic sharpening. Segmented cutter inserts are usually carbide, last longer, and are either 2- or 4-sided, allowing you to rotate individual cutters as they become nicked or dull.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a big difference between the &quot;portable&quot; or &quot;benchtop&quot;&#xA;  planers as compared to the big floor-standing models (I now know there&#xA;  is with table saws!)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main difference is that stationary planers are more heavy-duty, often run quieter, and can remove more material in one pass (1/8&quot;, vs. 1/16&quot; for a lunchbox planer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Segmented cutterheads are not as common on lunchbox planers, and installing an aftermarket segmented cutterhead on a lunchbox planer is not necessarily advisable since the segmented cutterhead forces the motor to work harder (because the cutters are constantly in contact with the material).  Also a lunchbox planer's cutterhead has a smaller diameter so the cutters perform a more severe scooping motion against the material, as opposed to a stationary machine with a larger-diameter cutterhead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I don't have a jointer, so the ability to use a planer sled to flatten&#xA;  faces of boards would be nice - is that just a function of the size of&#xA;  the opening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can use a planer to do face jointing, but a table saw would be better for edge jointing unless ganging up many pieces. Jointing on a planer requires some extra setup and typically involves attaching your workpiece to a &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/q/2116/49&quot;&gt;sled&lt;/a&gt; or rails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-10-07T22:42:06.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4796" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4822" CreationDate="2016-10-07T20:18:06.357" Score="4" ViewCount="1190" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this wood on the side of the road. It was big, thick, and heavy, so naturally I took it home. When I cross-cut it, I noticed this star-like pattern. It's throughout the wood and seems to be around the edge of the heart wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks too straight to be wood rot. What is this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xxadx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xxadx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Crosscut wood with dark patches&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2739" LastEditorUserId="2739" LastEditDate="2016-10-11T13:54:35.663" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T08:53:06.273" Title="What is this dark part of the end grain on this wood called?" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4797" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-08T09:16:51.610" Score="3" ViewCount="1476" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a coffee table with four feet and have realized that my workshop floor is not level at all. It is not sloped, but rather has an uneven surface. While it doesn't make a difference for general use, I have found a variation in the surface of a few mm, which make it difficult to judge if all legs are precisely the same length. My table may be sure in my garage, but wobble in my living room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I'm not in any position to re-do my workshop floor, nor move my woodworking to my living room, is there an easy way to ensure my table legs are the same without having a level floor to work on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another side effect of this is that also a lot of the other workshop fittings are also not level (workbenches, etc) which make for interesting woodworking! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2251" LastActivityDate="2016-10-10T18:10:35.327" Title="How can I be sure my workpiece feet are level, when my workshop floor isn't?" Tags="|furniture|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4797" CreationDate="2016-10-08T21:21:46.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never tried this but it should work. It won't gurantee all legs are the same length but it should verify all the ends are in a plane and your table won't wobble on a flat floor. It does rely on your table being rigid. It also assumes your legs are pretty close in length to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Place your table upside down on your workbench. Maybe shim any corners not in contact with the bench (unimportant if your table is really rigid). Fasten a piece of non-stretchy string between diagonal corners such that it makes contact with the bottom of each leg and is taught as possible without pulling the legs together. Call these legs 1 and 3. Now fasten another string to one of the other legs, say 2, and pull it taught to leg 4. If, as you bring the second string down just to the point of contact with leg 4, the string just touches the first string, your leg ends are all in a plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, once the string makes contact with leg 4, the second string is above the first string (not making contact), you need to trim leg 2 or leg 4. Measure and choose the longer leg if there is one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third possibility is that the second string makes contact with the first string before making contact with leg 4. In this case, start over but with the first string between legs 2 and 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This relies on the fact that two intersecting straight lines define a plane. One caution is that the two strings should have similar tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: My answer was directed at trimming legs of an already assembled table but it could be equally applied to legs clamped onto the rails previous to fastening. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit 2:  If you need do this frequently, you could substitute two straight edges for the string. One of the straight edges, say 1 x 4 pine, would be cut in two in the center. Spread the pieces apart and splice a short piece along the bottom such that it maintains the straight edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit 3: As @aaron points out, the string method is made more precise by shimming the string on legs 2 and 4 by a string thickness and gauging levelness when the strings barely touch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2762" LastEditorUserId="2762" LastEditDate="2016-10-10T18:10:35.327" LastActivityDate="2016-10-10T18:10:35.327" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4799" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-09T02:32:09.177" Score="4" ViewCount="3470" Body="&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am building a farm table and it seems that the standard joinery method for the breadboards is mortise and tenon.  M&amp;amp;T intimidates me a bit, so wondering if a half-lap breadboard would function well. The breadboards would be about 5-iniches long. It doesn't seem that half-lap is used often for breadboards, but I did find this table that uses it. What do you guys think?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/projects/42734&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://lumberjocks.com/projects/42734&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4A2ER.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4A2ER.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2794" LastEditorUserId="2794" LastEditDate="2016-10-09T02:42:02.450" LastActivityDate="2023-08-12T21:31:30.723" Title="Can I use half-lap joint for table breadboard?" Tags="|design|table-making|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4799" CreationDate="2016-10-09T02:55:19.873" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main purpose for the breadboard feature is cover the end grain edge of the top and to keep the top surface from curling across its width by locking it into the  plane of the breadboard edge piece.  The most common way to do this is with a mortise and tenon.  The problem that arises is that the top surface will expand and contract in width as the seasons change while the breadboard end will not change length.  To accommodate this difference in movement, the top is only glued into the mortise at the center allowing it to slide as the width of the table changes relative to the edge.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the table in your photo the top must be fastened to the edge board at each plank.  The expansion/contraction in the top is accommodated by providing a small gap between the planks. I would estimate that a gap of approx 3/16&quot; between each plank should do the trick. Having the gaps between the planks is fine for an outside table since it allows for some drainage when wet.  If you want avoid gaps in the top then a mortise &amp;amp; tenon breadboard is required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-10-09T02:55:19.873" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4797" CreationDate="2016-10-09T08:25:50.610" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My table may be sure in my garage, but wobble in my living room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's one 'secret' to this kind of thing, after levelling the top of the table in the living room (or wherever it's going) &lt;em&gt;mark the legs for length there&lt;/em&gt;. Then take it back into the workshop to cut them to length. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can scribe the legs for length using a huge variety of tools, including a bunch of fancy, overly complicated (read: expensive) gadgets sold to fleece gullible woodworkers into throwing money at a simple problem that never had an expensive solution before. Or you can use a basic child's compass or dividers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For scribing table legs specifically probably your simplest option is a pencil laid on a thin block of wood that will put the tip even with the bottom of the &lt;em&gt;shortest&lt;/em&gt; leg. If your table's legs are already very close to even you may even be able to get away with laying the pencil directly on the floor and using half its own thickness as the scribing amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, if you have a table saw you may prefer this method posted by Popular Woodworking back in 2012, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/level-legs-the-easy-way&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Level Legs the Easy Way by Steve Shanesy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Another side effect of this is that also a lot of the other workshop fittings are also not level (workbenches, etc) which make for interesting woodworking! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a side issue that you should address in another Question if necessary but in short, a non-level floor should not at all lead to non-level working surfaces — pack out or shim legs, or add adjustable feet, so that everything IS level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-10-09T08:25:50.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4799" CreationDate="2016-10-09T08:38:14.343" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can I use half-lap joint for table breadboard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes of course you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt;, the picture you included shows that, the real question is whether you &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; :-) That there are very few other tables with breadboards ends attached this way should tell you something. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We don't know important details of the Lumberjocks project you posted as there are no build pics included, and no photographs of the underside, but from the brief written description it could be interpreted that the breadboards were glued in place which would be all kinds of bad on most tables. But beyond this, on a standard table with a glued field the half-lap joint isn't capable of doing what breadboards are specifically intended to do, which is resist bowing in the top while simultaneously allowing it to expand and contract as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;General note: don't take photos of a completed table sitting there looking good as any sort of 'proof of concept'. Many improperly built pieces of furniture look just fine in the photos of the just-completed piece, but what about six months or a year down the line? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;M&amp;amp;T intimidates me a bit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The standard M&amp;amp;T joint for a table like this is challenging to form with hand tools so it's natural to have some trepidation, although if you have major power tools at your disposal it is really a by-the-numbers operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But anyway what I think you should do is give serious thought to leaving off the breadboards entirely. &lt;em&gt;They're not a necessary part of the structure of a table&lt;/em&gt;. They can in fact be considered more of a decorative/style element (especially of utilitarian or 'country' furniture) as shown by their absence from the great majority of other solid-wood tables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So unless you're wedded to the idea of breadboards I'd discard them from the design. You can in their place attach battens to the underside of the table (making due allowance for movement by making slots at both ends for the screws to ride in, not plain drilled holed, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2439/stabilizer-for-softwood-tabletop-that-bows/2441#2441&quot;&gt;Stabilizer for softwood tabletop that bows&lt;/a&gt;) or simply use enough hardwood buttons or other fasteners to hold the top flat (three or four per side should do it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to keep the breadboards then in place of a mortise-and-tenon joint you might consider a floating spline instead, which simplifies the construction but retains much the same functionality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-10-09T08:38:14.343" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4803" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-09T15:18:41.003" Score="3" ViewCount="2199" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cannot find anywhere bow saw frame for 42 inch blade. Could you advise?&#xA;Many thanks,&#xA;Martin&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2797" LastActivityDate="2018-10-04T00:08:28.087" Title="Where to get bow saw 42 inch?" Tags="|wood|hand-tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4799" CreationDate="2016-10-09T18:48:47.367" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suggestion: split the difference, if you will excuse the pun. Do a quarter lap from each side. Or do a half-lap as shown here, but with another board across the bottom. Or just do tongue-and-groove, or even sliding dovetail, rather than a closed-end mortise. All of these simplify the task to simple dado or rabbet cuts, while providing the top-and-bottom clamping of the breadboard end. Affix, as usual, to allow wood motion as the table width changes with humidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-10-09T18:48:47.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4806" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-10T00:10:41.790" Score="2" ViewCount="3709" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a dead branch in the woods that I want to preserve and turn into a wizard staff for a cosplay/Halloween costume. The branch was very dead when I found it, so I think it's pretty dry, and I want to keep it looking basically the same as it was when I found it. It has a lot of lichen and some moss, as well as a few large (1/4&quot;) splits in the wood. It seems sturdy despite the splits as I gave it quite the beating on the way home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to keep the bark and lichen preserved on the staff? The moss can be optional as I'm guessing it would lose its color in time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Side Note: This is my first real wood-related project so I don't have any real experience with this sort of thing.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2799" LastActivityDate="2016-10-14T04:02:14.310" Title="Preserving a Dead Branch AS IS for a Staff" Tags="|finishing|physical-protection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4806" CreationDate="2016-10-10T01:39:51.057" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The branch was very dead when I found it, so I think it's pretty dry,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are various levels of 'dry' for wood. Sitting exposed outdoors, especially if lying on the ground, the wood won't be quite as dry as you'd imagine (especially in its interior). When you pick up any wood from outdoors it should be expected that in the relatively dry and stable conditions indoors it will dry further. With a branch this drying will take a bit longer than with a plank of similar thickness because the bark acts as a partial moisture barrier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the branch dries more any existing cracks may widen and/or lengthen slightly and some new ones may form. You'll just have to roll with this as there's basically nothing you can do to prevent it with a whole branch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the bark, if you're lucky the species of tree that the branch belongs to has bark that stays strongly attached over time and becoming drier won't affect it much. If you're unlucky it'll begin to flake or peel off. You'll just have to see how it goes over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lichen is probably very brittle as it is and I don't think there's anything you can do to improve on this, handling will as a result flake some of it off. The moss will dry out over time and slowly lose its colour (good news is it may take many months) and as it gets drier I imagine its hold on the bark will diminish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So probably your best course of action is try to handle the mossy and lichen-encrusted areas as little as possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-10-10T01:39:51.057" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4803" CreationDate="2016-10-10T02:17:49.130" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;These days I think most bow-saw frames are made by the woodworker and not bought, although that may be just what is common in Western Europe and North America.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If making your own sounds like a project you'd be interested in here is a plan you can use as a starting point, scaling up as needed for the length of your saw blade:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/35uxo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/35uxo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bow saw plan&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For greater details of a different frame style look at this article on Popular Woodworking, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/make-a-shapely-bowsaw-2&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Make a Shapely Bowsaw&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option to consider which vastly simplifies the making of one is simply by fitting the blade to two ends of a bent branch:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qzbvo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qzbvo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Branch bow saw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://willowhavenoutdoor.com/featured-wilderness-survival-blog-entries/fat-guys-in-the-woods-blog-skill-series-make-an-improvised-bow-saw/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAT GUYS IN THE WOODS: BLOG SKILL SERIES: Make an Improvised Bow Saw&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-10-10T02:17:49.130" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4809" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4828" CreationDate="2016-10-10T05:02:13.413" Score="9" ViewCount="1505" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Hitachi C10FCE2 10-inch miter saw, it is my first miter saw. I'm a woodworking beginner but learning fast. I recently installed a &quot;Makita A-93681 10-Inch 80 Tooth Micro Polished Mitersaw Blade&quot; to replace the pretty crappy blade it came with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just noticed today while cutting some 3/4&quot; cherry for a box that the miter saw isn't cutting a flat edge, even though the edge seems to be square. I've calibrated all of my tools to an obsessive degree. I have several accurate engineer's squares, double squares and combo squares that all agree with each other, and they (plus a digital angle gauge) all agree that the miter saw blade is perfectly perpendicular to the back fence and the floor. I didn't really expect a discrepancy, so I hadn't been meticulously checking the resulting wood. Thus, I don't actually know whether this problem has always been here, or if it appeared some time down the line. I only bought it a few months ago, and the blade just a few weeks ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;problem&quot; I speak of is not that the cuts are off square in the traditional sense. A try square doesn't show significant deviation from square. However, when I place the two halves of a fresh-cut bit of wood together, they don't line up smoothly along the entire surface. There's sort of a gap there that is most prominent on one side. There's also some blade marks that are deeper than they should be, so much so that I can feel some parts of the end grain are a few thous higher than others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I switched to my crosscut sled after noticing the problem and my ends are nice and square and flat again. Does anyone know what this is, if it can be fixed or if I need to dump the saw and/or the blade? Is it my technique, machine setup/calibration, a hardware fault or something else like I messed up installing the blade? If the blade is the culprit, I might still be in the return window for Amazon. If I had a shooting board I'd probably just clean up my ends, but until then I depend on a clean cut right off the saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI, all parts of the saw are tight with no play/wiggle where there shouldn't be. My technique is to push the wood against the back fence and down on the widest part of the saw bed, clamp the wood down, spin the saw up to speed, slowly drop the saw through the wood while applying light pressure down and back to keep it square, stop when it reaches bottom, wait for it to stop, then lift it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took some pictures of the gap and also the end grain, though the saw marks probably don't even show up in the pics.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FHuDv.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FHuDv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HeJeI.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HeJeI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Man I've spent way too many words describing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2800" LastActivityDate="2016-10-15T04:54:58.267" Title="Hitachi electric miter saw leaves a strange, slightly undulating non-square edge" Tags="|technique|power-tools|cutting|miter-saw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4810" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-10T12:34:07.493" Score="5" ViewCount="3728" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see picture frames held together with glue, but I'm wondering if equally robust and aesthetic results could be obtained using flat L-shape angle brackets? What problems am I going to run into using this method?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41GWvUhGpvL._SY300_.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;flat L-shape angle brackets&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X3Y9d.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;frame&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2802" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-10-14T04:00:42.627" LastActivityDate="2016-10-19T19:01:10.160" Title="Picture frame using L angle brackets" Tags="|framing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4811" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4815" CreationDate="2016-10-10T16:02:19.737" Score="6" ViewCount="15468" Body="&lt;p&gt;My drill press has a slight wobble in the chuck that makes it difficult to line up the contact point of the bit and the wood when it is rotating (on a 1/8 inch bit the wobble is roughly the width of the bit). I've checked to make sure there is nothing stuck in the jaws, and I've checked to make sure the bits are actually true. What is the best method to go about adjusting the chuck itself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1161" LastActivityDate="2016-10-10T22:06:37.960" Title="How do I fix chuck wobble in my drill press?" Tags="|drilling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4813" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-10T18:06:23.427" Score="6" ViewCount="4944" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is just a basic project for fun and experience. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shelf will measure about 48,24,12 (H,W,D).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think this would hold an even load of 50 lbs per shelf with 5 shelves?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1RlEF.png&quot; alt=&quot;rough image&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2804" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2019-10-24T21:00:02.003" LastActivityDate="2019-10-24T21:00:02.003" Title="Shelf made of 1x2 pine boards. Stable?" Tags="|safety|strength|pine|racking|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4813" CreationDate="2016-10-10T18:27:12.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sagulator&lt;/a&gt; calculates a sag of 0.03 in over 24&quot; for a 50 lb uniform load on a single 1x2 of (Ponderosa) pine laying on its face. So your 4-board shelf should be stable given that weight load. A 12&quot; 1x2 on its side can support in excess of 1000 lb, so no worries about the shelf supports breaking, either.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that, although each shelf could hold the same amount of weight, unless the unit is secured to the wall, loading it down that way could lead to it tipping over. Even if you do load the higher shelves lighter than the lower shelves, I would still secure it to the wall, especially if there are small children around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastEditorUserId="2524" LastEditDate="2016-10-10T18:40:15.247" LastActivityDate="2016-10-10T18:40:15.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4811" CreationDate="2016-10-10T22:06:37.960" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a dial-indicator to check alignment, you can often fix it with a couple of well placed smacks,  or worst case - popping the chuck out and re-sitting it to fix the alignment issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had similar issues with my el cheapo drill press and used the info in this PDF to resolve:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rvplane.com/pdf/drill_press_tune-up.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.rvplane.com/pdf/drill_press_tune-up.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="282" LastActivityDate="2016-10-10T22:06:37.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4440" CreationDate="2016-10-10T23:02:15.533" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, they did nothing. They air dried which is slow and deliberate. No end seal just proper stacking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2527" LastActivityDate="2016-10-10T23:02:15.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4813" CreationDate="2016-10-11T12:40:57.887" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The weakest part of the design is how your substantial load is being carried to the uprights. There's not that much you can do for those joints as drawn...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest you add actual 1x2 members beside your existing uprights that will carry the weight of the frame (perimeter) of each shelf. It's easy to build this way, and will look a little less spindly. (Comment back if you need a drawing.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comments above about cross-bracing to prevent racking should be taken seriously, unless you're attaching securely to a wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit to add a terrible picture. (Hope you get the idea, though.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QE1hz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QE1hz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The red parts (done all the way down, of course) will transfer load from the shelves to the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One more edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;glue and mechanically fasten (screw or nail) the additional uprights for strength.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;if you start from the ground and work your way up, all you have to do is cut the additional uprights exactly the same length and the unit almost builds itself. (Exact length is easy on a chopsaw where you can gang cut everything; a bit harder with a handsaw.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a cheap and cheerful crossbrace can be found at your local Ikea: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/87749600/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/87749600/&lt;/a&gt; (&quot;OBSERVATÖR&#xA;Cross-brace, galvanized&quot;, $5). This would keep the back of the unit from racking, and the sides would take care of themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastEditorUserId="503" LastEditDate="2016-10-14T03:51:05.953" LastActivityDate="2016-10-14T03:51:05.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4810" CreationDate="2016-10-11T20:31:19.993" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A little glue is less expensive than the brackets and screws.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Metal has a greater coefficient of linear expansion than wood, by something like a factor of two, so you may run the risk of gaps appearing if assembly temperature is significantly lower than temperature where displayed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not only do the frame pieces need to be held tightly together when applying the brackets, but you will also need to drill precisely centered and sized pilot holes so that splitting, stress AND looseness are avoided.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1457" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T20:31:19.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4762" CreationDate="2016-10-11T20:56:29.870" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For good general purpose use, as a beginner, get a carcass saw (~13 ppi, crosscut filed, with a little depth to it - 2 inches or better.)  It will serve you well for many purposes, and will be easier to start in the cut than a rip-filed saw.  When it fails you in some way, then you can start building your inevitable collection :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1457" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T20:56:29.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4810" CreationDate="2016-10-12T08:05:23.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can certainly do this if you wanted, and actually it wouldn't be a bad way of reinforcing some large or heavyweight frames — &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1129/strong-joints-to-use-when-making-custom-frames/1140#1140&quot;&gt;Strong joints to use when making custom frames&lt;/a&gt; :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you wouldn't want to do it on every frame, as I mention in the same sentence in the previous Answer you can do the same using just a triangle or chevron of plywood (or hardboard) that is tacked or screwed to the back of the frame corners in just the same way. These would be cheaper of course (potentially free if using up scraps), and perhaps more importantly would have less play in them (or none at all) so your joints would be made &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; secure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is assuming the mitres are already glued of course, I can't think of a good reason not to glue the joints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T08:05:23.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4796" CreationDate="2016-10-12T08:53:06.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As requested I'm turning my Comment into an Answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These look like classic water stains to me. The end grain of wood is likened to the open ends of a bundle of straws and can absorb moisture like a sponge which is why stains can run so deep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if the staining runs very deeply indeed say 4&quot; (10cm) or more, or clearly progressing down through the longitudinal grain (which isn't absorbent) it is from fungal activity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is this a temporary condition? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The colour change is usually permanent (as in it won't go away on its own or fade from sunlight exposure). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possibly treatable with certain kinds of wood bleach though. If the stains are due to iron in the water good results should be achieved using oxalic acid which is the classic treatment for this type of staining:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1ttoB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1ttoB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Oxalic acid for dark water stains&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/repair-a-water-damaged-finish&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Repair a Water-Damaged Finish&lt;/a&gt; on Popular Woodworking.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does it cause any problems working with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's just staining the wood won't be any different that you'd notice. With many woods however if water is in contact with it for a long time (either in one go or through repeated wetting cycles) decay can set in, but staining will often occur a long time before decay starts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's hard to tell for sure from the photo but the wood looks sound so this could merely be a cosmetic issue. If not the soft earlywood (the pale parts of the grain) will be softer than normal, noticeably spongy or 'punky'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T08:53:06.273" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4823" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4827" CreationDate="2016-10-12T13:47:06.707" Score="5" ViewCount="464" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to be able to make very accurate 'copy' of a lathe turned project such as legs on my lathe. I seen this tool on YouTube and have no idea what this is called but looks very useful. But the flaw is you need them holes and some bolts. But I may be able to make the hole needed to do such a thing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am sure there are other tools or methods of doing this. And I would like to know what would be the best thing to go with. This one seemed to be a great choice. If anybody can find a link where to get something like this please include it. Or how to make something like it. I am willing to build something if need be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically I want something that will help me make a copy of a turned object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yBRmw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yBRmw.png&quot; alt=&quot;Tool used to make a copy of turned object&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-10-14T03:28:50.870" LastActivityDate="2016-10-17T22:16:54.467" Title="What is this lathe tool that helps me copy a turned object?" Tags="|lathe|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4813" CreationDate="2016-10-12T16:57:03.407" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each shelf is capable of holding the load that you are intending with shearing or sagging. Where this design fails is in racking, both front to back and side to side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Traditional shelves are built with solid sides and a back. This serves to hold books, or items onto the shelves, but this really is only a secondary function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Primarily, the solid sides and back resist racking forces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In you design, you have replaced the solid sides with a narrow stile at the front and back, and only the horizontal rails at each shelve. What this does is reduces your resistance to racking down to only the 2x2 area of your lap joints on the sides, and on the back it is even worse, being reduced to the butt joints of your shelves rails where they meet the verticals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would first recomend increasing the width of your vertical stiles to at least a 1x3 or 1x4. This will increase the area of your lap joints, thus increasing the resistance to racking front to back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next I would consider adding a full back. If you don't want a full back, then I would add a vertical 1x4 on the left and right side of the back, just like you have on the sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last I would bring your shelf horizontals inside of the sides for a cleaner look.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/efcgn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/efcgn.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T16:57:03.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4806" CreationDate="2016-10-12T20:10:39.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that the woods where you found the branch aren't too far from where you live, the climate in your backyard will be &lt;em&gt;similar&lt;/em&gt; to the climate in the woods. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest storing your wizarding staff in a shady place in the backyard, lying on the ground, just like you found it. The moisture in the air and that which is wicked up from the dirt should keep the moss &amp;amp; lichen going strong. If the branch is thick enough, it will be years before it starts decaying enough that you'd have to worry about it crumbling or breaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Storing it in a spot that receives a lot of sun will likely kill off the lichen and moss more quickly - they usually grow in the shade.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Storing it indoors will cause it to dry far more rapidly than it will outdoors, leading to additional splitting and the death of the moss/lichen. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you either decide to retire the staff from active use, or it does start to decay enough that you're concerned that it may start falling apart soon, that would be the time to move it indoors to protect what's left of it. Prior to doing so, take it on one last adventure to the woods to find its replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-10-14T04:02:14.310" LastActivityDate="2016-10-14T04:02:14.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4823" CreationDate="2016-10-13T02:38:43.900" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That looks quite similar to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodfast.com.au/index.php?p=1_11&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the CopyTurn&lt;/a&gt; - which, as you'll see, is $385 AUD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything substantially less than that and you'll find it's something cheap/homemade/flimsy like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/lathe-duplicator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodcentral.com/articles/turning/articles_832.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything else will be solid, will attach to your lathe, and will be up in that $300 range, or much higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2772" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T02:38:43.900" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4809" CreationDate="2016-10-13T16:01:46.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on your last comment, return the saw. This is not something you're likely to be able to fix easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a decent saw that usually cuts much better than this, you should feel comfortable exchanging for another one of the same model, this sounds like a freak one-off defect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2772" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T16:01:46.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4693" CreationDate="2016-10-13T16:09:15.723" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, if your previous blade is square then your new one will be too.  It's extremely unlikely for a blade to be bent, especially for a Freud, and even if it is, it'll be obvious as soon as it spins up the first time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if your first blade wasn't square then your new blade won't be either, and a new blade is as good a time as any to square your saw :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2772" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T16:09:15.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4689" CreationDate="2016-10-13T16:21:53.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With no other help, yes the wood will split in line with the grain, but that's not (I hope) your situation.  The &lt;em&gt;other help&lt;/em&gt; you have is the line of your splitter, that steel edge will contact the end grain in a line that crosses those grain lines, and that line will create the line that the wood will split along.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other factor here is whether you're talking about the incredibly hard pinky-colored Brazilian Tulip (real Tulipwood) or the yellow-colored Tulip Poplar or American Tulipwood. You're probably talking about the latter, in which case you're fine.  But if you're talking about Brazilian Tulipwood then be aware that it's incredibly hard/dense, so you may want to saw your piece rather than try to split it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2772" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T16:21:53.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3856" CreationDate="2016-10-13T20:30:00.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that this is an old question, but for anyone else looking...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use a brace with a Forstner bit to get you started with removing material, and then chisels &amp;amp; even carving gouges for the finer detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the inserts, a fretsaw has already been mentioned but then also chisels, rasps and sandpaper for the finer stages for a close fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2772" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T20:30:00.760" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4779" CreationDate="2016-10-13T22:46:10.703" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own both. The comments made so far seem right on from my experience.  The one major advantage of a drum sander is: because of the open end, it can surface a workpiece that is about twice as wide as the planer.  Just rotate the piece 180 degrees and send it through again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your wood contains resin, you may face two problems:  1)  the resin can clog the sandpaper (use saw blade resin cleaner to clean it), and 2)  resin buildup on the paper can actually ignite burning a &quot;nice&quot; black line on your workpiece.  The dust can ignite also.  In general a drum sander is trickier to use and requires patience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My wood (Guanacaste) is very susceptible to tear out and even the sander will leave many tiny tear outs.  Fortunately, the flaps lay down during finishing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="309" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T22:46:10.703" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4833" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-14T17:06:39.970" Score="1" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I turn a convex arc in wood? I want the arc to be perfectly symmetrical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have looked at various turning tutorials and they do not explain how to do this kind of operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2018-01-02T15:58:46.530" Title="Turning a convex arc" Tags="|turning|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4809" CreationDate="2016-10-15T04:36:30.297" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're expecting too much from a $120 saw and $35 thin kerf blade. Power tools in this price range just aren't manufactured to ultra-tight tolerances because there is a point of diminishing returns for the manufacturer, and they start cutting corners in some places in order to hit a certain price point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try cleaning your arbor or replacing the washers on either side of the blade with higher-quality ones. You may be able to tell if the washers are not flat, or if one or both is inconsistent in thickness from one side to the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're getting 4-5 thousandths of an inch runout (slightly more than the diameter of a human hair) along some parts of your blade, that means mating 2 cut pieces may give you a gap as wide as 1/100 inch. Most people wouldn't pay attention to a gap this size when looking at installed crown molding from 4+ feet away, but even so, carpentry projects inherently have some amount of slop because time is money, and a skilled carpenter will have plenty of techniques for working around and hiding imperfections where it matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On top of that, whatever you measure with the blade in a static state most likely will differ when the blade is spinning at 5000 RPM, especially with a thin kerf blade whose plate will be less resistant to flexing than a full-kerf blade. Based on your experimentation, it seems this is not the major factor since the original blade produces the same results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering the workarounds, you don't need to buy a $400 shooting plane; you can just as well use a $30 hand plane and shooting board, or clean up the edges with your crosscut sled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, there is no reason to throw out your miter saw. At some point you may want to crosscut a very long board, which will be awkward on a table saw and may require you to move your table saw or rearrange your shop to accommodate the operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2016-10-15T04:54:58.267" LastActivityDate="2016-10-15T04:54:58.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4835" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4836" CreationDate="2016-10-15T15:11:55.787" Score="4" ViewCount="625" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a beginner in wood working and want to ensure my safety and accuracy in my projects. What is the difference between a &quot;crosscut sled&quot; and a &quot;table saw boat&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2818" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-10-17T19:05:10.903" LastActivityDate="2016-10-17T19:05:10.903" Title="What is the difference between a crosscut sled and a table saw boat?" Tags="|table-saw|terminology|jig|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4835" CreationDate="2016-10-15T16:08:19.690" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not heard the term &quot;table saw boat&quot; before, but it seems they refer to the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.renovateyourworld.com/HowTo_Library/How_to_Build_a_Sled_or_Boat_for_a_Table_Saw-Carpentry_Tools-S3519.html&quot;&gt;How to Build a Sled or Boat for a Table Saw&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://tag.wonderhowto.com/build-a-sled-or-boat-for-your-table-saw/&quot;&gt;Build a sled or boat for your table saw&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2016-10-15T16:08:19.690" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4840" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4841" CreationDate="2016-10-16T16:23:45.683" Score="2" ViewCount="1171" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the following understanding for table saws:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A cross cut is against the grain, and should use a miter gauge (w/ the rip fence removed).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A rip cut is with the grain, and should use a rip fence. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boards that are being cut length wise get pushed along the rip fence, and width cuts get pushed with a miter-gauge. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you use for a square piece of plywood then (alternating grains, and length / width is identical) - use a rip fence or miter-gauge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2821" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T00:43:49.837" Title="Use a miter gauge or a rip fence for cutting square stock on a table saw?" Tags="|table-saw|plywood|rip-cut|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4840" CreationDate="2016-10-16T17:04:36.160" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use whichever one is more practical for the size of your workpiece and your saw setup, but in general a miter gauge is not as well-suited to working with square stock.  The miter gauge's capacity is limited unless you have an auxiliary infeed table, since it falls out of the track once it extends too far past the front of the table. Also, the bulk of a square piece's material is only supported at the outer end of the miter gauge's fence (if you have one). Using a basic miter gauge with no attached fence to cut a square piece of material will be awkward at best, and probably dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're talking square sheets, you're probably not looking at anything larger than 5'x5' (e.g., Baltic birch plywood). On the table saw, it will be easiest to cut this with an appropriately-sized sled or the fence. For small parts, you should use a sled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2016-10-16T17:04:36.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4840" CreationDate="2016-10-16T17:08:09.937" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple answer is that it depends on the size and shape of the piece you are cutting. For large pieces of plywood the fence is the right answer; for smaller pieces the miter gauge -- or a tablesaw sled -- could be the better choice. Whichever makes handling the workpiece easier and safer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-10-16T17:08:09.937" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4843" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4847" CreationDate="2016-10-16T17:42:13.140" Score="5" ViewCount="251" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making window apertures in 12mm plywood (it's birch-faced) for a doll's house.  I'd like the window and door holes to be neat.   I could use a router for this and then chisel the corners square, but I'd prefer a less noisy approach (I mostly only have time to work on this in the evenings and don't want to wake my kids up).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The edges of the plywood I've carefully squared with a No. 5 plane, and that has worked well, but of course that's not practical for small holes as the plane won't fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would a rasp (then filing or sanding) do the job?   Or would it tear out the birch facing?   If yes for the rasp, what type would be a good choice (I don't own any, else I could have tried it out instead of asking).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2557" LastActivityDate="2016-10-18T04:53:41.717" Title="How to neaten holes in plywood with hand tools?" Tags="|hand-tools|plywood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4844" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4846" CreationDate="2016-10-16T21:09:41.940" Score="8" ViewCount="9664" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made a chopping board for my kitchen out of some sort of hard dark wood. I don't know what it was. Because there was a crack in the product, I chiselled a slot down the crack and then glued a piece of wood into the slot, so that the crack was no longer there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It works OK. Many months later the piece of wood is still firmly stuck into that slot. But whenever I wash the board with water and soap, the glue becomes visible, as though it is returning to its uncured state. A couple of questions: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this safe for food preparation area?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of glue should I be using for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2463" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2017-02-10T00:05:55.540" LastActivityDate="2017-02-10T00:05:55.540" Title="Glue for butcher's blocks" Tags="|glue|butcher-block|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4844" CreationDate="2016-10-16T21:40:56.120" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're fine. All that's happening is that the glue us acting as a finish, sealing the wood in that area so it doesn't soak up water. You could scrape or sand the area to reduce this effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most woodworking adhesives are quite sufficiently nontoxic when cured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2016-10-21T01:07:17.857" LastActivityDate="2016-10-21T01:07:17.857" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4844" CreationDate="2016-10-17T07:23:16.257" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;whenever I wash the board with water and soap, the glue becomes visible, as though it is returning to its uncured state&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most PVA-type glues (the majority of woodworking glues used today) are clear/transparent in a thin film but slightly sensitive to water, going cloudy/milky if wetted, which I presume is what you're seeing. It's not much to worry about except aesthetically and the fact that the glued-in patch has remained firm with repeated washing cycles shows that what you've used is likely waterproof enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it does indicate there's a thin smear of glue on/in the wood the surface wood fibres if you want to prevent the problem in future you can lightly plane, scrape or sand the surface. This is in order of preference :-) You'll only need to remove a very small amount to get down to unaffected wood, just a few passes with a smoothing plane set to take a light cut which is equivalent to ~0.008&quot;/0.2mm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is this safe for food preparation area?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only a few glues are actually passed or certified as food safe, however, that &lt;em&gt;doesn't&lt;/em&gt; indicate the others aren't safe, only that the maker's didn't bother to pay for the certification. It's likely that most glues can be considered safe for direct food contact once they are fully cured, like virtually all wood finishes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some context it's extremely likely that the majority of commercial butcher block countertops and cutting boards are not built using a glue with a food-safe certification because the makers don't consider it important, where invisibly-thin glue lines between boards are all that is coming into contact with the food. And only briefly at that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What kind of glue should I be using for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For working cutting boards, as opposed to mostly decorative boards that see little use (many bread boards and cheese boards) you should ideally be using a waterproof, not water-resistant, glue. So if using a PVA glue you want a Type-I*. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to mention, online very often the glue recommended for cutting boards is Titebond III but a little confusingly it's a Type-I PVA. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Foaming polyurethane glues, such as the original Gorilla glue, are also waterproof and although they don't seem to see much use in making boards they are a solid choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*A little overview of wood glues here in an early Question on this SE in case it's of help, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/857/what-is-special-about-wood-glue&quot;&gt;What is special about wood glue?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-10-17T07:23:16.257" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4843" CreationDate="2016-10-17T07:50:21.460" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A rasp probably won't give you the smooth edge you're seeking, even a fine hand-stitched one (very expensive) or one of the superior machine-stitched rasps (usually much cheaper but not always) that work as well. Rasps are superb tools and capable of surprisingly accurate work but they're for faster removal, not for the finest finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to do this using a similar tool one or more files would be a better choice. This is a gross oversimplification but a double-cut file will cut faster but leave a coarser surface and a single-cut file will leave a smoother surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't currently own any files I can highly recommend them for working wood. For now though you can do without — simply glue some abrasive paper to strips of wood (paint stirring sticks are very popular for this if you have a source) and use them as you would use a file*. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to being super-cheap these 'sandpaper files' have an advantage over real files in that they can be used on both the push and pull strokes (the teeth on files only cut properly on the push stroke) &lt;em&gt;but note that working the edge of plywood you'll mostly want to confine yourself to push strokes only&lt;/em&gt;, stroking downwards or away from the surface. If you stroke backwards you risk lifting flakes of the face veneer which can be impossible to neaten up properly. You can stroke sideways as well, but the exact orientation of the grain in the veneer relative to the cut edge will dictate how well this works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a common tip for working plywood and it applies here as well, it's very helpful to strongly knife your marked lines beforehand. If the knife cut is deep it can completely sever the fibres of the face veneer virtually eliminating tearout if you're careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*As an alternative to this you could use emery boards of course which are much the same thing, but you're limited to a fairly small size and to some extent the range of grits available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-10-17T07:50:21.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4844" CreationDate="2016-10-17T14:55:30.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wood glue is slightly soluble in water and even more so in vinegar.  I wouldn't worry about it because the glue will dry to its orginal state. I wouldn't put the cutting board in the dishwasher though as the heat and water will eventaully weaken the bond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're concerned about moisture and the integrity of your laminations, I would recommend TiteBond III water resistant glue or you can use epoxy. Just make sure whatever glue you're using is food safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="806" LastActivityDate="2016-10-17T14:55:30.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2403" CreationDate="2016-10-17T20:53:34.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The holes are there to stretch less diamond over more area. In power applications holes can help cooling, but that is not a factor in hand sharpening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diamond cuts faster than other abrasives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would get the non-hole stone because it will cut more metal per stroke than ones with holes. Your time is probably more valuable than the extra amount spent on the stone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2016-10-17T20:53:34.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4850" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4857" CreationDate="2016-10-17T21:51:55.313" Score="10" ViewCount="6521" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having just completed my first woodworking project (a twin-size bed made of 1x poplar and plywood), there are of course many things I would change if I were to do it again. Perhaps one of the more surprising to me (as a beginner) is my desire to not use butt joints (with only glue, or with pocket-hole screws). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Butt joints look easy, especially for beginner woodworkers who may not have a big selection of tools - just cut the pieces to length and glue, screw, nail, whatever. Their main disadvantages - strength and appearance, IMO - may not be a concern if it is strong &lt;em&gt;enough&lt;/em&gt;, and the final piece will be painted or edges covered up with trim. Especially compared to cutting dadoes or M&amp;amp;T, butt joints are simple to execute - in theory. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice, though, I found they are very difficult to align precisely and even a very shallow dado / groove or biscuits (though that's another tool) would have helped with alignment immensely. This was compounded by not having a good and flat surface to assemble everything on (an assembly table just moved high up on my project list). Having the glued-up pieces slide around while trying to tighten down clamps or nail in a brad with the pneumatic nailer was frustrating, and would have been a moot point with a different kind of joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other not-so-obvious drawbacks to butt joints, that may not be apparent to (beginner) woodworkers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastActivityDate="2022-10-31T16:09:20.123" Title="Not-so-obvious disadvantages of butt joints" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4823" CreationDate="2016-10-17T22:16:54.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can mount your pattern piece on the lathe, and position a lamp in a fixed location somewhere above the lathe. Then trace thepattern's shadow on a piece of paper below. &#xA;Then you keep the lamp on and stop advancing your tool once the shadow matches the pattern trace. &#xA;With a bit of practice it should be a very close duplicate for the cost of the lamp and the paper. &#xA;I have a lamp that appears to be made for this, in that it has  mount for my lathe. But any lamp ought to work,  depending on other lights in the shop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="725" LastActivityDate="2016-10-17T22:16:54.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4853" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-18T04:02:19.773" Score="2" ViewCount="164" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to fit trim on a square post. The trim goes around the base of the post where it meets a stone foundation. The trim is made from a fir 2x6 with the inside face (where it meets the post) beveled 20°, making the angle between the top face and the inside face 70°. I'd like to join the pieces with miter cuts at the corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way I'm setting up the cut is to use an angle finder, similar to this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wSaUI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wSaUI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Angle finder for miter saw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to first measure the angle between the sides of the post, and then to transfer the angle to my miter saw using the laser guides on the saw to adjust the angle on the saw until the laser runs down the guide line in the center of the tool. The blade is set plumb to the table and the trim pieces are clamped to the saw fence so that the inside face is flush against the fence (in the same position as the trim will sit against the post).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After cutting both side of a joint, the angle between the inside faces does not match the angle finder and the piece does not fit the post exactly (the angle is a little wide (about 1/8&quot; over 14&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've double checked everything in my setup, and I can't find any mistakes. I'm looking for suggestions on how to troubleshoot this, and also a sanity check on my method – am I right in thinking that a piece of trim being used in a manner similar to crown molding can be cut at the &quot;obvious&quot; angle (e.g., 45° for an accurate 90° corner) when it is held in the saw in the same position that it will be in when installed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1246" LastEditorUserId="1246" LastEditDate="2016-10-19T05:02:45.877" LastActivityDate="2016-10-19T05:02:45.877" Title="Troubleshooting Compound Miters" Tags="|joinery|miter-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4853" CreationDate="2016-10-18T04:47:02.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you measuring the angle at the height you are placing the trim?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, instead of using the laser to line up the blade, lower the blade on the saw and use the side of the blade itself.  Sometimes those lasers can be a few degrees off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2016-10-18T04:47:02.257" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4843" CreationDate="2016-10-18T04:53:41.717" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, I'd use a jigsaw or possibly a coping saw to do any cuts like that.  You can clamp an edge guide if you are not good at making straight cuts freehand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2016-10-18T04:53:41.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4850" CreationDate="2016-10-18T08:00:07.367" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In practice, though, I found they are very difficult to align precisely and even a very shallow dado / groove or biscuits (though that's another tool) would have helped with alignment immensely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where a butt joint is an appropriate joint to choose the difficulty in alignment is their main downside. There are simple construction tips that can help overcome these problems, including creative use of clamps and registration surfaces (e.g. a stop block, or just the top of the workbench sometimes) to butt matching surfaces against&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; but there's no denying it can be a tricky thing to do in practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Having the glued-up pieces slide around while trying to tighten down clamps or nail in a brad with the pneumatic nailer was frustrating, and would have been a moot point with a different kind of joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yep, all wood glues are very lubricative and they can make a joint surprisingly slippery! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything in the same vein as a biscuit (including dowels, Dominos and splines) is one of the primary ways to fix alignment and stop things slipping around during glue-up because they lock in the positions of the two pieces of wood, sometimes relevant to the face sides only (biscuits) other times both up and down as well as side to side (dowels and Dominos).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when making up large panels from a number of boards there's really no reason to resort to any of these because you can use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/229/what-is-a-good-way-to-prevent-jointed-tabletops-from-bowing-when-tightening-fast/241#241&quot;&gt;caul&lt;/a&gt; to force alignment as you are clamping up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that splines, dowels, biscuits and Dominos don't add any needed strength in a joint like this and in fact may slightly weaken the joint as paradoxical as that seems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are there any other not-so-obvious drawbacks to butt joints, that may not be apparent to (beginner) woodworkers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than being careful where one or both faces is end grain I don't think so. Anywhere that face grain is glued to face grain (whether longitudinal or radial) the joint created will be at least as strong as the wood around it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This assumes the joint faces are properly prepared of course. They should be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flat (or occasionally with a deliberate curve, as in a sprung joint).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Smooth (the smoother the better, roughening the surface is almost never desirable).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This last one doesn't get mentioned often enough — freshly worked (older wood surfaces don't glue as well as those which have just been worked, ideally within an hour).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And on top of the above it's important that enough glue is used so that it can fully wet the joint face &lt;em&gt;on both sides&lt;/em&gt; and that sufficient clamp pressure is applied&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. You want to clamp &lt;em&gt;hard&lt;/em&gt;, firmly enough to squeeze out all excess adhesive because a thin film is nearly always the strongest&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little more on some aspects of this in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4233/what-are-the-different-grain-directions-and-how-do-they-affect-joint-strength/4240?s=3|0.1136#4240&quot;&gt;What are the different grain directions, and how do they affect joint strength?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; These surfaces should be waxed or otherwise protected (e.g. with tape, packing tape is excellent for this but just about anything will do) so that any glue that squeezes onto them won't bond them to the workpiece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Many woodworkers, including some pros, under-clamp and the fact that there aren't more joint failures is a testament to the bonding strength of glues. But where joint strength is critical, and in butt joints the glue is the only thing holding the wood together so it's a critical example, you want to tick all the boxes and that includes very strong clamp pressures being applied to ensure a thin glue line. In butt joints we should be aiming for glue lines that are nearly invisible, certainly not easily seen at arm's length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; An exception would be when using epoxy, which doesn't require clamp pressure to ensure a good bond and which can make a very strong bond even in a thick film.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-10-18T08:00:07.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4858" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4860" CreationDate="2016-10-18T13:26:54.970" Score="4" ViewCount="8543" Body="&lt;p&gt;At my local home improvement store, they only have spray cans of lacquer and brushing lacquer(Minwax clear brushing lacquer). I'm thinking it would be cheaper and faster if I could just use the quarts of brushing lacquer in an actual spray gun instead of buying a bunch of spray cans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to get a thick coat of lacquer over stained wood panels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What makes the lacquer for brushing instead of spraying?&#xA;And is there any problems that might arise from using brushing lacquer directly in a spray gun?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="453" LastActivityDate="2022-04-11T02:12:34.250" Title="Can I spray &quot;brushing lacquer&quot;?" Tags="|finishing|technique|varnish|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4858" CreationDate="2016-10-18T16:02:20.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't used that specific brand, but I have sprayed lacquer several times through my HVLP and it worked just fine. You just have to make a few passes to build up the thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="966" LastActivityDate="2016-10-18T16:02:20.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4858" CreationDate="2016-10-18T16:35:35.263" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can spray &quot;brushing lacquer&quot;--although depending on your gun, you will most likely want to thin it first with lacquer thinner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that spraying is not necessarily faster than brushing. You will have to spray more coats to equal a single brushed coat. Also, with spraying there is more waste, since a fair amount of the atomized finish is overspray or floats away in the air and never makes it onto the workpiece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anytime you spray, remember to properly clean your gun when you are done for the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2016-10-18T16:35:35.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4861" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4862" CreationDate="2016-10-19T00:02:35.567" Score="5" ViewCount="5119" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building and installing various cabinets and shelving units around the house, and when it's time to install them, knowing the exact stud and cross-bracing locations is very helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an electronic stud finder that works well enough. I often want to mark the stud locations with an easily removable mark because the mark location may not be hidden by the cabinet, so I've been using chalkboard chalk. The problem is, it's not easily visible on many painted surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of using colored chalk, just regular Crayola kids chalk to create a more visible mark. Is that a sensible thing to do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a more specialized chalk suitable for that job?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Am I going to have trouble getting colored chalk off the kitchen or bedroom wall if it has flat paint?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there some other standard way of marking stud locations with a removable mark?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2016-10-20T00:51:54.537" Title="Making removable marks on walls for e.g. cabinet installation" Tags="|technique|hand-tools|paint|measurement|cabinetry|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4861" CreationDate="2016-10-19T02:53:43.720" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I don't want to make messy marks, it's blue painter's tape all the way. (There are various options, in terms of how long you can leave it on. Just remember to peel it in time.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2016-10-19T02:53:43.720" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4863" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-19T18:46:21.327" Score="2" ViewCount="293" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider a fairly common stool such as this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aR0Uw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aR0Uw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;stool&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of the wood stretchers between the legs would threaded rod work as a reasonable substitute?  I am thinking about using two pieces of threaded rod per stretcher - connected in the center with a coupler nut.  I can extend the rods out from coupler nut for a tight fit into the legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2832" LastActivityDate="2017-01-07T07:50:48.370" Title="Would threaded rod with a coupling nut suffice as a stretcher?" Tags="|joinery|design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4810" CreationDate="2016-10-19T19:01:10.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's more work and may not be the solution you are looking for, but you can achieve a much stronger corner with equally appealing aesthetics by using a mitred half lap, such as:&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dfOfg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dfOfg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;mitred half lap corner joint&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2832" LastActivityDate="2016-10-19T19:01:10.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4861" CreationDate="2016-10-20T00:51:54.537" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;denatured alcohol will remove pencil lines from most surfaces without attacking paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2834" LastActivityDate="2016-10-20T00:51:54.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4866" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4870" CreationDate="2016-10-20T15:03:05.330" Score="3" ViewCount="427" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a table top similar to the picture below; it's 22 inches in diameter.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FLEH1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FLEH1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to build a simple table base, similar to the mockup below. For this, &#xA;I bought three 36-inch 1&quot;x1&quot; wood pieces: one of the pieces would be for the height of the table and the other two would be for the base and the top part. I didn't want to glue/screw/nail the top to the base; I just wanted to place it over the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it's something simple, but how can I accomplish building this? I'm new to carpentry, so that's why it may be a little more difficult for me. I don't have that many power tools, just the basic ones like a drill and a jigsaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My mockup is something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XBZfe.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XBZfe.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2833" LastActivityDate="2016-10-22T15:46:50.800" Title="Building a simple table base with these materials?" Tags="|joinery|wood|design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4867" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4869" CreationDate="2016-10-20T18:37:22.287" Score="3" ViewCount="939" Body="&lt;p&gt;Enclosed are pictures of the railing. As you can see I have attempted to use a miter cut to join the 2 railings together. I was also thinking about mitering the other railing so the angled one could fit right in. I was wondering what the most secure way would be? Thanks&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XkCWB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XkCWB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fy7WJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fy7WJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2836" LastActivityDate="2016-10-21T16:59:29.753" Title="How to secure these 2 stair handrails together." Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4868" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-20T19:03:27.923" Score="3" ViewCount="3568" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've stumbled on &lt;a href=&quot;http://hellorhei.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; beautiful piece of design. And I'm wondering how they constructed the wooden part of the box. I have some questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which type of wood they use, because the nerves are really parallel and straight?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I see from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://hellorhei.com/img/schema.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;diagram&lt;/a&gt; that the corner pieces are made separately, and glued later. How do they cut them?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming it's all CNC'ed. But it would be nice if somebody can tell, how they would make something like this, with just hand material tools (if possible).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2837" LastEditorDisplayName="user862" LastEditDate="2017-07-05T13:54:04.473" LastActivityDate="2017-07-09T20:11:25.560" Title="How to make a box with rounded corners" Tags="|glue|boxes|box-joint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4867" CreationDate="2016-10-21T07:14:27.657" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I was wondering what the most secure way would be? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably either would be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it sits currently all you'd need to do to make a firm connection would be to glue and fix the joint. You could even fix it with nails but I'll discount those :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Screws&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;One screw is probably sufficient given the nature of the installation, but use two side by side if you feel the extra strength is needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to drill clearance and pilot holes first of course. Then after lightly sanding the mating surfaces to ensure a good glue bond, glue the joint and drive the screw/screws in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No need for clamps as the screws will supply the clamping force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to make the glue joint a little more secure you could &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/840/gluing-end-grain/851#851&quot;&gt;size&lt;/a&gt; the end grain surface prior to applying the main bonding glue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plug the clearance holes with face-grain plugs if you want the fixings to be hidden, but I don't think this is a must-do since the drilled holes will be hard to see given their position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dowel&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As an alternative to screwing you could use one fat dowel or two narrower ones, again driven in from below into drilled holes. Leave the dowel slightly over-long and it will plug its own hole, simply saw off the excess and pare any remainder with a very sharp chisel until completely flush. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-10-21T16:59:29.753" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4866" CreationDate="2016-10-21T07:47:58.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I didn't want to glue/screw/nail the top to the base; I just wanted to place it over the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That will not be very safe, because wood on wood doesn't generate much friction a surprisingly small bump can upset an unfixed tabletop and send it crashing to the ground. Many a woodworker test-fitting a top to their leg assemblies has found this out the hard way after bumping it with their hip!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're absolutely sure you don't want to fix the top in place I would highly recommend installing rubber pads or small strips of non-slip tape on the X frames to help the top not slip as easily if knocked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;how can I accomplish building this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are numerous joints that could be used here, including some unusual three-way joints that would involve some seriously accurate handwork. But I think one of the simplest options will suit you as it's easily done and should be strong and secure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You start by making the two X frames, which will be joined in the centre using half-lap joints (UK: cross-halving joints). Cut these for a nice hand-tight fit, glue and clamp them firmly in the centre. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ruAQ4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ruAQ4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Half-lap or cross-halving joint&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;strong&gt;Good Wood Joints&lt;/strong&gt;, by Albert Jackson &amp;amp; David Day.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the glue has set on those you can then drill vertically through the lap (clamp firmly to a scrap of wood to minimise blowout at the back when the bit exits) and drill a matching hole in the centre of the leg for a dowel, I'd suggest using 3/8&quot; dowel here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This dowel will in effect become a round tenon, and the drilled hole through the lap joint is the mortise. So this is a 'cheats' way of doing a mortise-and-tenon joint, one of the strongest joints in woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drill the hole in the leg slightly deeper than necessary to give a little room for excess glue to accumulate. If you buy smooth dowel you should prepare it for joint use by grooving it somehow, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3841/how-can-i-flute-my-own-dowel-or-create-dowel-with-similar-properties&quot;&gt;this previous Q&amp;amp;A&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glue up, clamp carefully so the X shapes remain square to the leg and once the glue has set you're ready for finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-10-21T07:47:58.503" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4866" CreationDate="2016-10-22T15:46:50.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I mentioned in the comments, I think the size of wood combined with the design you've chosen is desperately inadequate. We have an expectation that tables put up with all kinds of forces -- live and dead loads; downward, sideways -- and underbuilding something like this will end in tears. (I'm guessing that the top alone is 15-20 pounds, which isn't trivial.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Design-wise, I suggest you try to draw some inspiration from something like Gerrit Rietveld's Red Blue Chair: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.moma.org/collection/works/4044&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.moma.org/collection/works/4044&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's made up of relatively spindly framing members, but it uses cross-bracing and doweled joints to advantage. (Braces will help prevent racking... even better if the braces are set on an angle.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, I'd think about using 4 of your 1x1s with a little space between them as the central pedestal. (Even this might not be sufficient, but it should be a good experiment, and you can beef it up afterwards as needed.) Maybe have them on an angle for additional strength. Here's some terrible scribbles: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7H3G8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7H3G8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;terrible scribbly design ideas&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2016-10-22T15:46:50.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4872" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-22T16:27:22.277" Score="4" ViewCount="220" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m building a small dining table for a friend and using 2×8 SPF boards for the tabletop. They have have been sitting in my climate controlled basement for about 10 weeks now and I’m measuring MC of 11-14% still. Just for fun, I measured the 2×6s that were used to frame our basement walls (our house is 5 years old) and they came in at 10-12%. I have some maple and walnut in the same basement that are registering at 7-9% after about a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does construction lumber stay inherently wetter than other hardwoods, even after acclimating? What MC would you feel comfortable using construction lumber for simple furniture? This won’t be precision work by any means, but I’m most concerned about potential warping!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2794" LastActivityDate="2016-10-23T07:33:12.840" Title="Does construction lumber ever dry to 6-9% MC?" Tags="|moisture|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4873" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4877" CreationDate="2016-10-22T19:27:58.630" Score="1" ViewCount="1423" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Jarvis adjustable desk frame and an Ikea Gerton table top (1.125″ thick). I also have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000BSN1TS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CPU holder&lt;/a&gt; that I intend to mount under the desk. It's meant to be mounted flush under the desk, but I need to offset it about 2″ to clear the Jarvis frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I first thought of just using some hangar bolts, but I'm a bit concerned about the stress on the wood/screw interface. The offset might allow the heavy CPU to sway a bit, wiggling the screws with leverage and weakening the connection over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm thinking of using &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00IXO92OU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;T-slotted aluminum channel&lt;/a&gt; to span the gap. At the bottom, it can be bolted to the CPU holder. At the top, I'm not quite sure. It has to be held tight to prevent wobbling. Are there wood screws with heads that fit securely in the slots of the channel? Or is there some kind of bracket to screw into the desktop and bolt into the channel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2842" LastActivityDate="2016-10-23T07:58:57.847" Title="Attaching t-slotted channel to the underside of a desk top" Tags="|wood|tabletop|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4872" CreationDate="2016-10-23T07:33:12.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes wood of any type can be just about any MC, given enough time and the right conditions. If you lived in arid parts of Arizona or &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;SPF ... in my climate controlled basement for about 10 weeks ... MC of 11-14% still&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  the 2×6s that were used to frame our basement walls [5 years old] 10-12%&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  maple and walnut in the same basement ... 7-9% after about a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your maple was almost certainly drier to begin, that will account for some of the difference in the readings you're getting, and kiln-dried wood (almost always drier than air-dried) is said by some sources* to permanently remain drier than air-dried wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now all the wood here is kiln-dried more than likely, but hardwoods are typically taken to a lower reading than construction-grade softwoods (because it's less important for 2x material to be as dry, it is not merely through impatience or cutting corners).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does construction lumber stay inherently wetter than other hardwoods, even after acclimating? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Within the limited timeframe we do it at, I'd say this would be nearly universally a yes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the common advice is to let wood acclimate in the shop (for weeks or months, depending on who's advising) in reality this often only gets it clos&lt;em&gt;er&lt;/em&gt;, not actually to the EMC for the location. It's very easy to test this real-world by resawing any board and comparing the readings from the original surface with what was the core of the board. Very infrequently will they measure the same. This is one of the two reasons that re-sawn wood will so frequently warp after cutting, unless stickered, stacked and clamped/weighted, or, wrapped tightly in plastic to prevent it drying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Note that this is a contended issue and some heavyweights state that all wood will come to the same EMC given sufficient time. Although there are many anecdotes that suggest this is not the case the exact storage conditions obviously play a major role in how, or even if, this occurs with wood stored in any workshop of any size. Variables include just how dry the environment is (hence the moisture gradient), how consistently dry it is, the amount of air exchange (critical factor in all drying) and perhaps most important of all, the way the wood is stacked (no air space may mean some wood remains wetter indefinitely).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-10-23T07:33:12.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4873" CreationDate="2016-10-23T07:58:57.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have the means to buy the wood and cut it to shape I think you should just do this using wood. No need to worry about what screws will work with the aluminium channel, if screws of the required length will hold well and resist sideways forces etc. and whether the channel will be strong enough in this application. Also no need to drill into aluminium, which isn't always a walk in the park with standard twist bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could do this with two strips of wood if you do it right but it would be easier to allow for future movement of the tabletop&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; by using a few smaller blocks&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. Attach each one to the underside of the tabletop with glue and nails or screws toenailed or skewed in from the sides. Once the glue has set it will provide most of the holding strength here so the actual mechanical fasteners aren't that critical. See section near the bottom of &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4850/not-so-obvious-disadvantages-of-butt-joints/4857#4857&quot;&gt;this recent Answer&lt;/a&gt; about how to ensure the strongest possible glue joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the glue has fully dried (a few hours is usually sufficient but wait overnight at least just to be on the safe side) you can simply screw your CPU holder into those using shorter screws that only go into the wooden blocks and not into the tabletop at all. Pre-drilling pilot holes in the blocks is a must, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2787/what-size-pilot-hole-should-i-drill-for-for-a-specific-size-of-screw/2790#2790&quot;&gt;What size pilot hole should I drill for for a specific size of screw?&lt;/a&gt; for a guide to the size of hole needed and a few other tips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;Expansion and contraction across the width with changes in humidity. All wood does this, even if made up of individual strips glued together as in the Gerton.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;Short lengths of 2x4 would be sufficient here, which you may be able to source for free from any construction work nearby. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-10-23T07:58:57.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4878" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13394" CreationDate="2016-10-23T23:23:24.963" Score="7" ViewCount="24481" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a very large (110&quot; X 48&quot;) dining table. I intend to finish the wood by applying Danish oil and a water-based, oil-modified, polyurethane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it won't be exposed to wear, is it necessary to seal the underside of the table?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="192" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-10-24T08:20:23.190" LastActivityDate="2022-04-22T02:54:13.040" Title="Is it necessary to apply finish to both sides of a table top?" Tags="|finishing|tabletop|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4878" CreationDate="2016-10-23T23:26:31.947" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodshopnews.com/columns-blogs/finishing/45-finishing-both-sides-is-warped-thinking&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bob Flexner says it is unnecessary&lt;/a&gt; to finish both sides of a table top:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...finishing the undersides of tabletops or the insides of cabinets or&#xA;  chests has only limited impact on reducing the likelihood of future&#xA;  problems. The only reasons to go to the trouble are for looks and feel&#xA;  — both of which are perfectly legitimate. But neither has anything to&#xA;  do with stabilizing the wood...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="192" LastActivityDate="2016-10-23T23:26:31.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4880" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-23T23:48:45.717" Score="4" ViewCount="10512" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am staining a door and when I did the first side last weekend.. The stain matched other wood in the house beautifully.  But when I went to do the other side this weekend.. The stain is much darker.. Even though I am using the same can? What should I do to lighten it up? What could have caused it to be so different?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2847" LastActivityDate="2016-10-24T22:21:12.133" Title="Why would stain change color from one project to another?" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4880" CreationDate="2016-10-24T08:12:04.993" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm presuming below that you used actual stain, something intended to colour wood &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt;, and not a finish-and-stain product such as &quot;gel stain&quot; which is a coloured varnish despite its (confusing) name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What could have caused it to be so different?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid we won't be able to answer this definitively for you because there are many variables. Here's a short list of what can affect a stain's colouring ability, one or more points may apply to your situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stain not stirred/shaken equally in both cases. Some 'stains' are coloured with pigment (not dye molecules) and as this is little particles they can settle to the bottom of the container.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lid left off between uses — solvent evaporates, making the stain more concentrated so it colours more strongly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stain left on a little longer the second time — stain will give a darker result the longer it is left on the surface (within limits) so when two surfaces have to match it's important to apply the stain in exactly the same manner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wood not prepped &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; the same on both sides — coarser sanding will generally make wood stain more darkly (larger scratches can hold more colour). Also, cross-grain scratches will give you a darker result than the same wood sanded with the same grit in line with the grain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Worn versus fresh sandpaper. The same grit can yield a different sanding result if fresh paper is used in one case and worn paper in another (or if by the time you are finished sanding the paper is worn). Worn paper leaves a smoother result and can additionally burnish the wood surface, both of which lessen the ability of wood to take stain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One side of the door was exposed more than the other so it wasn't the same colour to begin with, along with other possible effects*. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The side that ended up lighter had a sealer or finish applied to it and the other didn't (or a thicker coat was applied to the first side) preventing it from being able to absorb as much stain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last but not least:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Depending on how the door is constructed there's a very good chance each side is made from different pieces of wood, and with individual pieces of wood (whether solid wood or veneers bonded to any panel material) there is always the chance that they can take stain differently.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What should I do to lighten it up? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be very tricky to do. You should prepare yourself for the possibility that you won't be able to lighten the second side fully and may just have to live with it, unless you're willing to go through the process of completely stripping, scraping and sanding to get back to bare wood and start again from scratch. Fair warning, this is even more difficult and more of a timesuck than you're thinking!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the standard responses for this is to lightly abrade the surface but there's every likelihood that this won't be your best option here since you'll much more easily expose bare wood along edges and at corners compared to the large flat areas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the stain type wiping down with an appropriate solvent may be the best thing to try, but there are no guarantees if or how well this will work (and again, the effect tends to concentrate on edges). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With an oil-based stain mineral spirits may still work if the stain hasn't dried for too long, if it has then try acetone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a waterbased stain you could try just water, but often you'll need to use an organic solvent to lift the stain once dry. Denatured alcohol may work, try xylene if it doesn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's unlikely you used an alcohol-based stain but if you did the solvent to try is denatured alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*In addition to light exposure directly affecting the colour of the wood (often there is a slight bleaching while with some species, e.g. cherry, the wood goes a little darker and shifts colouring slightly), the side that was exposed more ages in a certain way, becoming less acceptant of stain than wood which was exposed to less air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-10-24T22:21:12.133" LastActivityDate="2016-10-24T22:21:12.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4878" CreationDate="2016-10-24T17:01:24.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, sealing the underside of the table is not necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood species, dimensions, grain patterns, moisture levels, and how the boards are joined will be the primary factors regarding movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only reason to seal the underside is for the aesthetic appeal of a fully finished piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current dining table is walnut veneer over walnut with an unfinished underside. It was made in the 1950's and is still in excellent condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1655" LastActivityDate="2016-10-24T17:01:24.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4878" CreationDate="2016-10-24T21:07:46.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it should be considered depending on the use the table is intended for. I deal poker in a casino where I sit at the table as high as I can, this means my legs are often up against the bottom of the table. I have picked up a lot of small splinter over the years. I think in some cases it would be nice if there had been some finish on there that would of kept the grain and splinter from rising. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="110" LastActivityDate="2016-10-24T21:07:46.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4885" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4888" CreationDate="2016-10-24T21:22:51.603" Score="8" ViewCount="9651" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is Danish Oil redundant to Polyurethane, or do both finishing agents provide complementary qualities?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="192" LastActivityDate="2017-04-26T17:02:30.087" Title="Is Danish Oil redundant to Polyurethane?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4886" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-24T21:36:24.677" Score="7" ViewCount="2813" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was putting a roundover on some pieces and used my router table. The table has a fence, and the 1/8&quot; roundover bit I used had a bearing on the bottom (top with the router installed in the table). I didn't bother setting my fence very accurately, just got it within 1/4&quot; or so. My father-in-law asked a couple times if I was sure I didn't want to set my fence properly. I figured the bearing would keep the bit from cutting too deep, and went ahead with the cut with the fence not flush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was I making a dangerous cut or otherwise operating the router in an unsafe manner? Is it preferred to use a fence instead of the bit's bearing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-10-25T03:43:27.590" LastActivityDate="2016-10-25T03:43:27.590" Title="Use a fence with a router bit with a bearing?" Tags="|safety|router|router-bit|router-table|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4886" CreationDate="2016-10-24T22:23:40.857" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's preferable to use both. The fence, lined up with the bearing, protects against the workpiece slipping up and over the bearing, and provides a place to mount featherboards to help keep the workpiece flat against the table. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-10-24T22:23:40.857" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4885" CreationDate="2016-10-24T22:59:36.163" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is Danish Oil redundant to Polyurethane?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mostly yes, you'd normally use one or the other not both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're already planning to use an oil-based varnish (any type) as the final finish on a project there's usually no reason to use &quot;Danish oil&quot; (or any similar oil/varnish blend) beforehand. Although this won't do any harm it adds an unnecessary step and yields no benefit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two exceptions to this, the first is where the &quot;Danish oil&quot; is coloured so you're effectively using it as a stain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second would be for optical reasons, where you've done a comparative test and found it enhances the figure* or chatoyance of the wood more than the varnish applied directly to the bare wood. However, this enhancement is usually best done using straight oil, mainly because it's much cheaper (it can also give a more pronounced effect). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A hidden benefit of having oil on hand for doing this sort of thing is that you no longer need to buy a product like &quot;Danish oil&quot; because you can make your own version, very quickly and at a significant saving — all commercial versions of this type of finish greatly overcharge for one of the major components, the cheapest, the mineral spirits. This can sometimes be 75% or more of the contents of the tin!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Often referred to as &quot;popping the grain&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-10-24T22:59:36.163" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4889" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4890" CreationDate="2016-10-25T00:17:54.573" Score="8" ViewCount="2057" Body="&lt;p&gt;I completely forgot about a slab of ash I had stored on the floor and it looks like water has seeped into the edge. It was stored horizontally on an edge, leaning against the wall. The edge against the floor is the area of the stain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a rough sawn, live edge slab that hasn't had the bark removed or been through the planer yet. Will the water damage be removed with sanding, something else or is the stain there for good? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1wgDi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1wgDi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Slab with water stain&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2850" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-10-25T03:07:59.320" LastActivityDate="2016-10-25T15:18:50.713" Title="How can I remove water damage from my improperly stored slab?" Tags="|wood-repair|water-protection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4889" CreationDate="2016-10-25T01:54:55.727" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually with any stain of this sort removing the surface should reveal pristine wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally you won't need to go down that far since neither watery nor oily things penetrate very deeply on long-grain surfaces. Since you intend to send it through the planer that should remove the affected wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-10-25T01:54:55.727" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4889" CreationDate="2016-10-25T15:18:50.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Water damage can be removed with little or no sanding by using &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxalic_acid&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;oxalic acid&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, which is easy to find in most stores in the cleaning aisle under the name Bar Keeper's Friend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I typically use oxalic acid with a bit of water to make a paste, then scrub the wood, wipe it clean, and then let it dry. Then I'll do a quick cleaning with Murphy's Oil Soap. I've done this cleaning schedule on a number of pieces that I've found on trash day and am always surprised by how well it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if I'm planning to plane the wood, I still usually do this cleaning first. The reason is because I'll end up focusing on getting rid of the &quot;dirty&quot; areas on the wood when planing rather than fixing flatness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2739" LastActivityDate="2016-10-25T15:18:50.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4892" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4893" CreationDate="2016-10-26T03:27:21.850" Score="7" ViewCount="970" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering what where different types or grades of glue there is for gluing wood. I use titebond and there is others. My Question is simple. Can somebody list the different types and how the benefit over the others. Like maybe titebond is the type and this other brand is a different type. Hope you guys know what I mean with my question, thanks!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2019-07-13T07:59:00.733" Title="What are the different types/grades of wood glue?" Tags="|glue|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4892" CreationDate="2016-10-26T09:09:38.227" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is really too broad for SE but at some point there was going to be a question that asked about wood glue generally and I think it makes a good reference point for future visitors so I'm going to try to answer it. But be aware that despite how long this is it's only a brief overview of the subject and not at all comprehensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some previous Q&amp;amp;As covered quite a bit of the ground here so I think I should link to all of them I could find to start with, for cross-referencing:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/857/what-is-special-about-wood-glue&quot;&gt;What is special about wood glue?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3834/what-are-the-applications-for-polyurethane-glue&quot;&gt;What are the applications for polyurethane glue?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3372/what-is-the-appropriate-wood-glue-for-outdoor-wood-furniture&quot;&gt;What is the appropriate wood glue for outdoor wood furniture?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1397/what-types-of-glue-can-i-use-on-wooden-kitchen-utensils-and-devices&quot;&gt;What type(s) of glue can I use on wooden kitchen utensils and devices?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's perhaps not that important but I think it's worth mentioning that while there are glues sold to bond wood the reality is that few were actually developed specifically &lt;em&gt;for&lt;/em&gt; wood. Instead we use glue that has been packaged/sold for use by woodworking trades. Where this is of interest is in deciding on an adhesive not sold specifically to woodworkers for certain special applications. Probably the best example of this is the early experimenters who tried cyanoacrylate adhesives (CA, superglue) and found them useful for a few specialist jobs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I try to list all the glues used in woodworking I'm sure to miss out a few, and the list would be overly long anyway, so this is just a few key ones. As for listing the various strengths, weaknesses and ideal applications for all of these that is definitely beyond the scope of SE so I'm not going to attempt that but I'll touch on a few interesting points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Casein&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;AKA milk glue or milk-protein glue. No longer widely used but a very important adhesive in its day. Can be made at home fairly easily if anyone wants to experiment with it in a small way, but it's still possible to buy this and the quality and consistency would be better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you make it at home you produce a wet paste, the commercial version comes as a dry powder that you mix as needed into a paste with water. It doesn't keep very long, even in the refrigerator, so don't make or mix too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hide glue&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Hide glue is not one thing, it is many closely related products, part of a broader class of protein glues derived primarily from animal skins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This and fish glue used to be &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; wood glues, and for many centuries were almost the only adhesives used in furniture making. In the past it was a hot glue (often referred to in English sources as &quot;Scotch glue&quot;) and had to be kept warm for use in a double boiler, and the wood surfaces usually warmed prior to application as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to be very careful not to overheat the original form as that spoiled the glue, which along with the sometimes rank smell of the old glue pots made using it not particularly pleasant. Today we have room-temperature versions such as Old Brown Glue and Titebond's Liquid Hide Glue that make it a lot more user-friendly, at the cost of a little of its strength (still plenty strong enough though). Unlike many glues hide glue joints are reversible, using moisture and heat, making them very popular still with instrument makers for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fish glue&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Derived from the skins or swim bladders of certain species of fish, e.g. sturgeon. Originally a very important adhesive (not just to woodworkers, it was widely used in other crafts) and while not commonly used today still valued for certain specialist applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Starch&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Starch glues are well worth experimenting with particularly with children because you can turn an everyday food product (flour, starch, rice) into something that will glue. Starch glues can be quite strong, good enough for smaller items but they don't usually form bonds that you'd rely on for furniture work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;PVA&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You could probably devote a chapter of a book on these alone. As you can see from some of the information in the above links there are a few types. The main class difference might seem to be between the white and yellow forms but they're broadly similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In reality the main thing that separates PVAs into two nearly distinct categories of glue is whether it is water-resistant or not, and it is not just the yellow form that can be water-resistant or waterproof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PVAs of all types are the most important woodworking glues in the modern era, and their relative cheapness, ease of application, lack of a strong odour, easy cleanup with water and other advantages ensures they'll remain popular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Epoxy&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Obviously there are many different types of epoxy, almost everyone is familiar with there being fast-setting types (3-min, 5-min or quick-set epoxy) and slow setting types with 'drying' times of an hour or more but it goes much deeper than that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a general rule the slower the setting time the stronger the epoxy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where gap-filling is important epoxy is the glue of choice and it can/should be filled with wood flour or fine sanding dust when used to fill major gaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: epoxy is one of the few glues that doesn't require clamping pressure to achieve a strong bond. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Polyurethane&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;We're probably most familiar with the foaming type (the original Gorilla glue being the classic example) but there are actually a number of classes of polyurethane glue, including types that are a paste consistency, e.g. &quot;construction adhesive&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The foaming quality of the usual type used by woodworkers has led to the belief that it can fill gaps, and it does — with a weak foam that has little strength. Polyurethane requires good clamp pressure to ensure a good bond, and it's important to watch out for the foaming pushing a joint apart with the pressure created.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Urea-formaldehyde&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Extremely important industrially (for most of the 20th century this was the glue used in plywood manufacture) and in some production woodworking shops, not widely use by home woodworkers. Can gap-fill to a small degree but it shouldn't be relied on for this. It and some closely related glues create coloured glue lines, which obviously limit where they can be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Superglue&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Generally what's known as &quot;superglue&quot; is cyanoacrylate. Also used as a finish, most commonly among pen turners I think. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are actually a few versions of this glue (not just liquid and gel types) with a broader range of properties than you might suppose. This is not used as a general-purpose glue in woodworking in that you would not use it e.g. to glue a large joint together, but it does have some uses, mainly for small repairs and/or in non-loaded applications. Superglue can cure very quickly, and even more so when used with a chemical &quot;activator&quot; which usually comes in an aerosol spray can. Woodturners in particular sometimes use superglue to repair smaller/very fine grain splits, and it can also be of use to bond small mitre joints such as on picture frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;IMPORTANT NOTE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It should be noted here that many glues sold to woodworkers tout their strength (including the now-infamous old marketing tagline for Gorilla glue). And there are various adhesive test published in magazines and done by various woodworkers online that do show that there is a range of joint strengths produced. But this can obscure the fact that the &lt;em&gt;weakest&lt;/em&gt; of them is generally capable of producing joints strong enough for use, and &lt;em&gt;the least expensive PVA can make joints as strong, or stronger, than the wood around them&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you match or exceed the strength of the wood itself you've done all you need to, any stronger than that is interesting but unimportant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="272" LastEditDate="2017-10-25T10:16:40.140" LastActivityDate="2017-10-25T10:16:40.140" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4894" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4898" CreationDate="2016-10-26T23:34:51.477" Score="3" ViewCount="2651" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the process of building a table saw/router table extension. I've been using pocket hole joints made with a Kreg jig for the case so far. I was wondering if the pocket holes screws would be enough to hold the drawers and shelves without a dado. I'm using 3/4&quot; construction ply for the sides and back and solid wood for the front. I'd like to have a couple of drawers at the bottom and an open space for the router and the lift. In everyone's experience are the pocket hole screws enough or should I add more support to the inside shelving. &#xA;First post with the app. Might edit on the computer later if requested&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="105" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-10-27T00:26:39.987" LastActivityDate="2016-10-27T20:21:23.220" Title="Pocket Hole Joint Strength" Tags="|box-joint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4895" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4896" CreationDate="2016-10-27T01:35:00.453" Score="2" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to make a sign that is rain and snow-proof. This will be put in front of my house for a while during winter (it is usually well below -20C here, sometimes even -40C). I don't expect this sign to last very long in this weather so I will most likely be taking care of it every few months when the ground becomes unfrozen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see the general shape in the sketch below. There is a frame which I will make out of 2x4s an you can also see the two glass panes that will be &quot;sandwiching&quot; a paper sign on one side, some black cardboard, and another sign facing the other direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you don't see in the sketch is the glass' frame which is the part that I'm stuck on. I need to make it so that I can change the sign frequently and also make it waterproof. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is what can I do design-wise in order to keep water out of the paper sign and at the same time be able to change the sign every now and then? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider that I have almost every woodworking tool available to me (no CNC though) and I have to whip this out in 5 days so that it can be ready for Halloween which is when the most people will see it. I can have a &quot;beta&quot; version for that day and go back and tweak it later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7XcLv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7XcLv.png&quot; alt=&quot;Sign&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2838" LastActivityDate="2016-10-27T08:02:22.343" Title="Waterproof sign frame" Tags="|design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4895" CreationDate="2016-10-27T01:53:04.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general you want to make sure that rain and snow have no point of ingress. You always see pictures, adverts and what not tacked onto electric poles or light posts. The usually are just tapped and never last too long. You can even see people using plastic file sheets to cover paper. That works &lt;em&gt;better&lt;/em&gt; but moisture still gets in from one end eventually. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you insist on using just plain paper in the glass try at least make it so the paper in inserted from the bottom. That when it rains , or any other precipitation for that matter that you don't have it sitting in where the paper goes. This will help the overall structure last longer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I would consider getting a laminater for you paper. A good lamination will stop moisture for much longer than just paper alone. If you are cycling your messages this will help you get more out of them long term. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also forgo paper altogether and just do colour printing on plastic transparencies. Not sure about how the inks will hold up though in the weather you are concerned about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the day try an make sure there is not place for water to pool and sit. Worst case make some small holes on the bottom where the paper is going to be sitting so that you can get some air flow at least. Likely they will just freeze and become useless but it won't hurt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2016-10-27T01:53:04.653" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4895" CreationDate="2016-10-27T08:02:22.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can put a gap between the paper and the glass (using tacks to attach the paper to the backing board). This will prevent that water will work its way upward using capillary action from a hole in the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding a little awning will also prevent most rain from trying to seep into the top and helps keep the glass clear from snow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2016-10-27T08:02:22.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4894" CreationDate="2016-10-27T11:11:55.890" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, pocket screws AND glue are enough to hold most drawer boxes together. We will often use them in a pinch for drawer boxes in the cabinet industry, and some shops will even use them regularly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, there are usually two weak spots in drawer construction, the bottom, and the drawer front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For our typical drawer construction, we use 1/2&quot; - 3/4&quot; sides with a 1/4&quot; bottom dadoed into all 4 sides. This makes construction and assembly simple, and results in a sturdy box. The drawer front is a separate part, applied to the front of the drawer box, usually using screws through the subfront of the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0oGou.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0oGou.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Building the box this way accomplishes a few things. First, your box itself has 4 sides, with the sub-front and back running between the drawer box sides. This hides any end grain from view. Also, you can put your pocket holes on the drawer box sub-front and back, where they will be completely out of view once in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, if you were to just screw the sides directly to the drawer fronts in a butt joint, those screws would be more likely to fail and pull out over time, and your drawer then has completely fallen apart. Having the sub-front, the screws holding the box together are perpendicular to the force from pulling the drawer open, and that force will be shear force, so that joint will be stronger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OXCdj.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OXCdj.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastActivityDate="2016-10-27T11:11:55.890" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4894" CreationDate="2016-10-27T20:21:23.220" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is an interesting video on the strength of pocket hole joints: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=apsH8eBfjVA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=apsH8eBfjVA&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2832" LastActivityDate="2016-10-27T20:21:23.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4900" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4901" CreationDate="2016-10-28T03:48:02.260" Score="2" ViewCount="291" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw &lt;a href=&quot;http://diycandy.com/2015/06/modern-williams-sonoma-inspired-diy-outdoor-bench/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this tutorial&lt;/a&gt; and I really want to build it for a workspace area at my job. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3qhPJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3qhPJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Diycandy.com Bench Tutorial&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;The measurements of this bench were 16″ high x 40″ long x 13.5″ deep, but I'd like to make a table that's 29&quot; high x 107&quot; long x 20&quot; deep. The tutorial bench is built using a modified box joint with interlocking 2&quot;x4&quot; pieces that are glued together with liquid nails. Each of the 2&quot;x4&quot; pieces have a little bit removed on the 2&quot; side to create a square look with a table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are any structural concerns with making the table this long? Would the table need to be reinforced underneath with hidden brackets? How much weight should it be able to hold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I appreciate your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2860" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T07:26:49.140" Title="Convert a minimalist bench design into a desk" Tags="|table-saw|table-making|weight-capacity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4900" CreationDate="2016-10-28T07:26:49.140" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are any structural concerns with making the table this long? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. Even with a top &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; thinner than you're going to end up with you can have a &gt;100&quot; span.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would the table need to be reinforced underneath with hidden brackets? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not at all, the interlocking box joint is very strong (lots of surface area for the glue) and the table will be naturally stiff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How much weight should it be able to hold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Sagulator&lt;/a&gt; to calculate this, but it won't be easy since this isn't any material that it includes (because of the way the boards are oriented). Let's just say &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This design orients the boards edge-up, which is using the wood at its maximum strength as regards resistance to sagging. Couple that with them being glued together what you're making here is in effect a laminated beam, so its strength is immense. I bet a heavy person could stand right in the centre and it wouldn't bow enough to notice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a weight issue that you might not have thought of and that's the weight of the table itself. Obviously you like the chunky style but do be aware scaled up to table size this makes for a great mass of solid wood and it'll weight quite a bit and may be difficult to move around even just made from 2x material. Made from hardwood it would be a two-man or three-man job in a lot of cases!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T07:26:49.140" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4902" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-28T19:56:00.717" Score="3" ViewCount="365" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm hand-planing rebates in half-inch (12mm) birch plywood.  The plane I'm using for this is an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-rider-no-778-duplex-rebate-plane-506571&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Axminster Rider No. 778 Duplex Rebate Plane&lt;/a&gt;.  That's very similar to a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan10.htm#num78&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Stanley No. 78&lt;/a&gt; but the fence is secured on two rods instead of one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I'm keeping the fence on the same side of the plane the whole time, I'm planing consistently in one direction (which happens to be with the grain of the top and bottom layers of ply).   However, the rebate isn't &quot;flat&quot;: the far end is deeper than the near end. In fact, there's a continuous downhill slope as you move away from the near end of the work piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultiumately perhaps I could help myself by setting the depth stop more cautiously - moving it by stages as the work progresses.   That seems time-consuming though.  Is there something I can change about my technique or body position to get more even material removal in the rebate (rabbet)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I don't want to use an electric router since I work on this in the evening and don't want to wake my kids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2557" LastEditorUserId="2557" LastEditDate="2016-10-29T06:25:34.393" LastActivityDate="2016-11-27T10:44:41.127" Title="My hand-planed rebate goes downhill - what's wrong with my technique?" Tags="|technique|traditional-techniques|hand-planing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4902" CreationDate="2016-10-29T00:08:07.500" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A rebate plane doesn't automatically cut to the same depth across the entire stroke. In theory perfect usage would come close, but most folks don't perfectly cut the whole thing with the same pressure every time, and few boards have equal hardness all the way across.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution is to not expect perfection. Draw a guide line on the end indicating where to stop cutting, and use that to tell you if some parts are cutting deeper than others. Use that to refine your technique—and if necessary (which it probably will be) to tell you where to make partial passes to level things out again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no shame in making guide marks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2016-11-27T10:44:41.127" LastActivityDate="2016-11-27T10:44:41.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4904" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-29T02:49:51.543" Score="3" ViewCount="6842" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a wood slice magnet which an extra thickness magnet is inserted on a 5mm thickness wood slice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my material.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QmZpX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QmZpX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Here is my material.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trouble is that I couldn't find a suitable forstner for it, and a pilot hole may break the thin slice. After deep research, I found someone use router:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The left one)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DnINl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DnINl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks nice, but soon I found holding a small wood slice for routing is different case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a better tool for my need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2578" LastEditorUserId="2578" LastEditDate="2016-10-29T13:53:12.777" LastActivityDate="2016-10-29T15:40:46.127" Title="How to make shallow flat-bottomed hole on 5mm thickness wood slice?" Tags="|router|drill|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4904" CreationDate="2016-10-29T06:21:42.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using a Forstner or brad point bit or router, you can cut the recess before cutting out your circle and slicing it to 5mm thick.  Optionally make a guide and grind off the center spur, if using a Forstner bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately, drill all the way through, then slice thinner slices and glue each O-shaped slice onto a circle of the same diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2016-10-29T06:21:42.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4904" CreationDate="2016-10-29T08:03:30.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Either a router or a Forstner (or similar) drill bit are both good ways to make the recesses you want, but in a small piece of wood I think a drill bit is clearly the better option. If you can find a suitable flat bit/spade bit cheaply you might also like to try &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2272/what-tools-methods-i-could-use-to-create-a-small-circular-recess/2277#2277&quot;&gt;this proposed modification&lt;/a&gt; from a previous Answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of the method used to mill the recess your main difficulty is in holding such small pieces so that the wood is secure and the operation is safe, so that's the thing to concentrate on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a router you'd need to build a custom clamping rig with jaws that were the same thickness as your slices or slightly thinner, and additionally the wood needs to be held tighter because of the very high speeds that routers run at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's much simpler with a drill bit since the clamping device or aid can be thicker than the workpiece (much thicker in fact because of the long shaft on the bit) and it won't get in the way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the standard ways woodworkers hold small parts is with a handscrew:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1vIld.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1vIld.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Holding small pieces with handscrews&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These both show routing operations but you can see how you could just as easily do the same for drilling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably don't own a handscrew and although a simple version is easy enough to make at home a number of other clamp types are capable of holding the work in a similar way. F-clamps, quick clamps and even a shorter sash clamp could all be used for this without any problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I think you could safely hold the workpiece by hand if you have a drill stand or pillar drill, but if you want to be more careful than that another trick would be to attach the slices to a long piece of wood that you can clamp firmly off to one side or hold by hand with your fingers safely away from the spinning bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are various ways to temporarily bond one piece of wood to another, and here double-sided tape may work perfectly well. But if you find it's not secure enough I suggest you try using superglue between two strips of tape as I describe in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2752/how-do-i-temporarily-attach-two-pieces-of-wood-together-for-machining&quot;&gt;How do I temporarily attach two pieces of wood together for machining?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-10-29T08:03:30.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4904" CreationDate="2016-10-29T15:40:46.127" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a plunge router, I'd clamp the wood slice from above with a larger chunk of wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To help a little with maintaining position, I'd tack two tracks onto your worktop. (Make them shorter than your wood slice, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w3uud.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w3uud.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're doing more than a couple, I'd screw the larger chunk of wood to the base of the router for perfect alignment. (If that's too bothersome, plunge the bit into the hole you've made -- power cord unplugged, of course -- to maintain alignment when you're clamping everything in place. This will take a few attempts, as you can no longer see your slice for alignment.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then clamp everything up and go for it. If you haven't screwed the guide wood to your router, then you'll need to clamp the router down as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UEH1c.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UEH1c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the hole established in the larger chunk of wood, you should be able to put crosshairs on the slice and eyeball the alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2016-10-29T15:40:46.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4908" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-29T17:48:19.703" Score="6" ViewCount="54291" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've searched and searched but I cannot find anything on the internet that looks close to my bad stain job, so here's the low down:&#xA;I'm finishing my dining room tabletop and chair seats. I'm using oil based wood stain in dark walnut. I've sanded them all down. I don't know the wood type because I bought the table second hand. I've attempted two chair seats and they both have turned out like the picture I've attached...what am I doing wrong? Do I need wood conditioner? Should I use gel stain instead? I'm so lost! Any help is much appreciated. :) here is the after staining: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vzeaf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;Here is the before: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Zh9N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YKBZm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2863" LastEditorUserId="2863" LastEditDate="2016-11-10T03:09:49.187" LastActivityDate="2019-07-22T16:57:08.447" Title="Wood Staining is blotchy and black...HELP!" Tags="|wood|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4909" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4912" CreationDate="2016-10-30T01:22:40.217" Score="5" ViewCount="627" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built this wall mount thing (~ 3ft wide, 1/2&quot; poplar) hung with a cleat (oak):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ghUY8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ghUY8.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is, I don't like the way the cleat looks. I think it looks sloppy. But, I want the piece to be backless, and flush to the wall. I also don't want to paint the cleat to match the wall -- I don't mind painting the wall side of it, but I don't want to paint the side attached to the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see myself putting more than 15 lbs of stuff on here but I'd like it to support 50 if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any wall mount options that aren't visible? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not necessarily limited to modifying this piece, I'm also looking for options for future reference in new pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2016-10-30T01:29:42.767" LastActivityDate="2016-10-30T14:09:28.450" Title="Invisible wall mounts" Tags="|design|mounting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4910" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-10-30T01:23:32.943" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-10-30T01:23:32.943" LastActivityDate="2016-10-30T01:23:32.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4911" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-10-30T01:23:32.943" Score="0" Body="For questions regarding mounting of completed pieces to their final location (e.g. shelves on a wall, etc.)" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2016-10-30T02:10:09.123" LastActivityDate="2016-10-30T02:10:09.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4909" CreationDate="2016-10-30T08:04:08.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good job on the case, it looks neat and solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The problem is, I don't like the way the cleat looks. I think it looks sloppy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Agreed. I think the ideal ways to mount something like this invisibly are to hide the mounting cleats/battens within the overall design, or to use mounts that hide within the vertical parts of the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the latter option there are a few alternatives, but possibly the simplest are keyhole hangers. They are unfortunately not a perfect solution because if you don't get your screws aligned dead on the thing won't hang at all, so you need to be very careful when drilling &lt;em&gt;and driving&lt;/em&gt; your screws/hanger bolts because you may have just the one shot to get it right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of this I think keyhole hangers aren't as useful as they seem initially for things that require more than one hanging point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So back to cleats/battens, they'd look &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; better if they fit the bookcase perfectly, so no gaps at the sides advertising that it's a cleat and not part of the piece itself, and if the screws weren't on display. So in addition to cutting a new cleat to match the case counterbore your holes and plug 'em!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-10-30T08:04:08.960" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4908" CreationDate="2016-10-30T08:23:15.837" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;what am I doing wrong? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This looks like a classic case of not preparing the wood fully for new stain. When you don't remove the previous finish and expose bare wood uniformly it won't look even, even sometimes if not staining a new colour and just applying new varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Checking progress&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When you're sanding off old finish and you think you're done there's an easy way to check, you just need to dampen the wood (usually done with water, mineral spirits or denatured alcohol). If you haven't gotten down to bare wood it'll show up immediately, where the bare areas will go darker than the areas where some finish remains in the surface wood fibres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This test can be repeated as often as necessary to check progress, but, you should let the wood dry before commencing sanding again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sanding errors&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In addition to not sanding enough I can see at least one area where there are cross-grain scratches, which make the wood stain more darkly. If you need to sand to prepare wood it's very important usually to finish sanding in the direction of the grain, &lt;em&gt;until all cross-grain scratches are gone&lt;/em&gt;. This often takes much, much longer than you want it to (most people starting out get bored and give up, we've all been there!) but it's a necessary part of the operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can sand purely orbitally if you do it conscientiously and go to a fine enough grit (possibly above 240) and especially if you use a random-orbit sander, which is far better for finish sanding than a basic orbital sander. But it's still best practice to finish sand, by hand using a block to back the sandpaper, going in the direction of the grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do I need wood conditioner? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably no, but sorry but we can't tell yet. You'd need to get back to bare wood, test for whether it stains evenly and then &quot;condition&quot; the wood if you find it's one of the (few) species that requires it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pretty much the one and only job of &quot;wood conditioner&quot; is to help reduce the tendency of wood stain to be absorbed unevenly, leading to the dreaded blotching. I use quotes here because it's a stupid name for a product that isn't needed since they're just very dilute finish, which anyone could make for themselves for a fraction of the price of the commercial versions (which are mostly solvent!) o_O&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should I use gel stain instead? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to let you know to begin with &quot;gel stain&quot; is a coloured varnish with a gel consistency. It's not a stain in the normal sense of the word despite the name. Yes, another dumb name for a product, but at least in this case a useful product :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, gel stain can actually be a very good choice for this sort of thing &lt;em&gt;because&lt;/em&gt; it's not stain. So it doesn't get absorbed by the wood, effectively hiding whether the wood is irregularly absorbent (this is why gel stain is a good pick for pine, which is infamous for absorbing stain very unevenly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What to do now&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I really hate to say this (I hate sanding more than most) but you have much more sanding ahead of you, unless you want to switch to scraping — see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1134/what-are-the-differences-between-sanding-and-scraping/1159#1159&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for why it's &lt;em&gt;so&lt;/em&gt; much better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You must now remove the wood that has remaining finish on it as well as the wood that has now absorbed the oil stain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this hasn't put you off doing this sort of project again for future reference sanding is often the worst way to remove previous finish. It's much better to rely on a chemical stripper which are of course designed for doing this exact job. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using stripper doesn't make finish removal a walk in the park by any means because there's still a lot of tedious scraping and wiping to complete the removal of the finish, but it's better in a few key ways and it saves turning the old finish (and any crud on top of it) into fine dust that gets everywhere and is potentially harmful to you, pets etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-10-30T08:23:15.837" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1500" CreationDate="2016-10-30T08:56:21.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Little late but...I tought about how you straighten a door, using wood block on the 'to in' corner and close the door for a 36h, door is most time corrected. So, I put wood blocks under the two lowest corners, whem board lying flat on floor, then put heavy weight on middle on a high humidity day. Seems to work for now, will follow up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2864" LastActivityDate="2016-10-30T08:56:21.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4909" CreationDate="2016-10-30T14:09:28.450" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your sides are approximately 3/4&quot;, as they appear to be, you could use these &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.starhanger.com/collections/wall-panel-mounting-clips-furring-systems/products/green-glide-furring-ceiling-system&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Starhanger Green Glide&lt;/a&gt; inserts routed into the back edge of the sides, and then hang them on these &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.starhanger.com/products/3-16-mounting-bolt-100-screws-sku-245&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mount Bolts&lt;/a&gt; for a completely concealed look. It is a keyhole slot hardware, but it is compression fit, so you just mortise a hole to the specified size, and then just put it in with a mallet for a tight fit, and you are ready to hang.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3mAdB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3mAdB.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We use their products a good bit in our shop for hanging panels, or anything that needs a concealed mounting system, and they have been great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastActivityDate="2016-10-30T14:09:28.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4916" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-31T03:54:58.250" Score="13" ViewCount="13091" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need a 1/16&quot; kerf for a project.  All the 10&quot; blades I can find that thin are into hundreds of dollars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meanwhile, I see thin-kerf 7.25&quot; Freud Diablo blades selling for &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00008WQ2H&quot;&gt;under $15&lt;/a&gt;.  These say they're rated for 10,000 rpm.  (My saw says no-load speed is 4,800 rpm.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't need to make deep cuts, nor am I doing high volume.  So other than reduced cut depth, and heat concerns with extended cutting, is there any reason not to put one of these smaller-diameter blades in my 10&quot; table saw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastActivityDate="2022-02-17T18:13:16.920" Title="Considerations for using smaller diameter blades on table saw?" Tags="|table-saw|saw-blade|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4902" CreationDate="2016-10-31T12:34:33.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the blade might not be engaging at the start of the cut. I would make sure that the blade is as sharp as possible and check that it engages at the front end of the rebate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best,&#xA;Kevin&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2867" LastActivityDate="2016-10-31T12:34:33.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4916" CreationDate="2016-10-31T14:04:26.577" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's common to use 8&quot; dado sets on 10&quot; table saws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main disadvantage of a smaller blade is simply that your maximum cut depth is reduced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also going to be a reduction in the speed at which the teeth meet the wood, and increase in torque. (Circumference is pi*diameter, so this is linear with blade size for a given RPM). That may affect cutting behavior, but I'm not sure what the effects might be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-11-06T00:18:39.587" LastActivityDate="2016-11-06T00:18:39.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4916" CreationDate="2016-10-31T23:28:13.287" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use 7.25&quot; and 8&quot; blades on a 10&quot; table saw all the time, with no problem. You will have less depth of cut, of course, and also a reduction of rim speed,which will slightly increase chances of tearout, and slightly reduce risk of burning, both to a negligible degree under most conditions. Go for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2166" LastActivityDate="2016-10-31T23:28:13.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4916" CreationDate="2016-11-01T14:28:19.473" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are doing through cuts, your table saw's stock riving knife will not be close enough to the back side of the blade to prevent kickback.  To address this, you can create a custom throat plate with an appropriately-sized and -located  splitter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2016-11-01T14:28:19.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2773" CreationDate="2016-11-02T07:44:31.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not sure about the copper or bronze but i think it would need sealing when finished to stop it turning green unless that is the effect you want. You can use fine metal powders and set with superglue or resin. I can post a link to something I filled with aluminum powder if allowed ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Iron can have an effect and give shades of purple, iv seen this around nails or wire but that's wood grown around it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2866" LastActivityDate="2016-11-02T07:44:31.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4923" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-02T07:53:49.107" Score="2" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of getting some Stick Fast resin for stabilizing poor quality woods like spalted beech and buckeye burl. What sort of things can you add to the resin to stain/dye the wood that won't cause a chemical reaction ? Stick Fast do make colorants but expensive and limited colours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2866" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-11-03T00:40:12.587" LastActivityDate="2017-03-03T22:10:00.713" Title="Stabilizing and colouring poor quality wood" Tags="|wood|spalted|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4916" CreationDate="2016-11-02T14:37:10.997" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add to rob's answer, it is unlikely that your saw's factory riving knife/splitter will be thin enough to pass through the smaller kerf. This may require you to remove the splitter or purchase/make one that will work safely with the blade kerf and diameter you are considering. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, however, your saw is not currently equipped with that safety measure, nothing really changes by moving to a thinner blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2875" LastActivityDate="2016-11-02T14:37:10.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4923" CreationDate="2016-11-03T00:51:28.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering that you will need a vacuum stabilization system(about $325 new) and a quart of stabilizer (about $34) it seems that $10 for a jar of dye is not out of range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, to get colours beyond the primary colours offered by Stick Fast you would need to buy three jars (red, yellow blue) and mix any color you want.  Relying on basic colour theory (red and blue make purple; blue and yellow make green; etc) you can, with patience, mix any colour you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-11-03T20:22:32.830" LastActivityDate="2016-11-03T20:22:32.830" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4926" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-03T02:36:18.660" Score="2" ViewCount="327" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having trouble using a corner clamp for my 45 degree miters. I try my best to align them and tighten them but the wood is always moving out of place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best method or just how they are used in general? I just can not figure out how to get a tight, corner joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update v1.2: This is the type of clamp I have.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HfyJW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HfyJW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update v1.3: I forgot to say, this image came from google. Do not know what site but image of the same thing (just different angle shot) from HomeDepot&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="2073" LastEditDate="2016-11-03T23:05:12.390" LastActivityDate="2016-11-03T23:05:12.390" Title="Using right angle clamps" Tags="|clamps|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4926" CreationDate="2016-11-03T07:05:29.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my opinion although it looks simple this joint is as difficult as some of the more technically difficult ones. First off make sure all are cut true and to length, then my choice is band clamps with a dry run. Once everything is assured with the dry run then add glue :) mine still sometimes move when you add the glue. Don't forget the joint may need reinforcement with splines or something but i add these when dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2866" LastActivityDate="2016-11-03T07:05:29.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4926" CreationDate="2016-11-03T10:25:33.477" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would invest in some of thise: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.collinstool.com/base.php?page=collins_miter_clamps.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Collins Miter Clamps&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a set a little over a year ago, and I'll never do miters without them. They are especially great for trim work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2fjwc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2fjwc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;from Collins web page&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rvenE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rvenE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;from Collins web page&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2016-11-03T20:39:15.253" LastActivityDate="2016-11-03T20:39:15.253" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4929" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-03T19:53:43.263" Score="1" ViewCount="122" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone tried to do woodburning on a large scale with a branding-iron stlye tool?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking to make about 100 coasters with same wood-burned image. Since I have foundry equipment, my thought was to cast the design in aluminum and attach to long rod, then heat and stamp each wooden coaster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I embark on the time consuming task of designing, patterning, and casting this &quot;branding iron&quot;, I am wondering if anyone else has done something similar and what issues I should beware of beforehand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2016-11-04T01:35:47.820" Title="Large Scale Woodburning" Tags="|wood|burning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4929" CreationDate="2016-11-04T01:35:47.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are commercial versions of this branding iron available, either electrically heated or heat-with-torch. The easy-to-find versions are standard &quot;from the workshop of&quot; patterns, but custom is possible, as is homebrew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not convinced that aluminum has the thermal mass needed to do a good job, but it could be an interesting experiment....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-11-04T01:35:47.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4931" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-04T05:14:16.357" Score="2" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which tools should a beginner woodworker with a budget of $500 purchase first? The goal is to build a simple workbench, so a set of tools with the greatest versatility to accomplish all the necessary tasks (e.g. jointing edges, ripping, cutting, drilling, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1628" LastActivityDate="2016-11-04T11:01:56.627" Title="Beginner's Toolset" Tags="|tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ClosedDate="2016-11-05T04:03:40.900" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4932" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4934" CreationDate="2016-11-04T09:39:25.163" Score="1" ViewCount="324" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to woodturning. I've made a small bowl from layered woods. I don't know what these woods are as they're reclaimed, but it's a red-coloured wood sandwiching some pale wood. I think the red-ish wood is a hardwood and the paler wood is a softwood looking at the grain density.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've turned the small bowl/pot and sanded up from 240/600/1000/1500/3000/5000/7000 papers. The result is the bowl is glass-like in texture and looks very nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is, I applied some wax aerosol furniture polish hoping to seal the surface of the wood, but the end grain expanded, absorbing it and the finish was spoiled. I had to re-sand it to restore it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any finishing oils or waxes I can use that won't cause the grain to swell on very finely sanded work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2884" LastActivityDate="2016-11-04T11:45:39.760" Title="What finish can I apply to mixed end-grain/cross-grain bowl that's sanded to 7000?" Tags="|finishing|wood|finish-selection|turning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4931" CreationDate="2016-11-04T11:01:56.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will attempt to answer this from my experience, but ultimately the answer is very subjective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you are starting with nothing, I would recommend:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Good tape measure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hammer (Not a framing hammer, but one with a smooth flat head)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mallet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retractable box cutter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Screw drivers (Phillips, Standard/Flat head)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chisels (Set of 3 should be good)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combination square (12&quot; is what I like)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pliers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond this, as far as power tools I would start with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Circular saw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Router&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastActivityDate="2016-11-04T11:01:56.627" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4932" CreationDate="2016-11-04T11:45:39.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hate to say this given all the trouble you've gone to already but it's rarely a good call to sand wood up to ultra-fine grits*.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking to get a gloss on wood you can get it much more efficiently by going to a finish of some sort (including simply waxing directly onto the bare wood, although I'm not a fan of this myself).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to giving you the surface gloss that you want, faster and with less effort, a finish adds protection to the wood which can obviously be very desirable for anything that won't just sit in a glass case and never be touched. Wax will resist minor handling and help ease dusting but it doesn't provide much more protection than this in the long term which is why I'm not a fan of it used by itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A short while ago there was a flurry of interest on one or two of the woodworking forums in a very finely sanded and buffed/burnished finish on wood with no actual finish applied, the gloss purely down to the super-smooth surface of the wood. I suppose it's something that everyone with access to fine sanding and/or buffing materials thinks to try at some point. In my case at least it became evident very quickly that for most hardwoods &lt;em&gt;moisture or grease on the fingertips was enough to make the surface go matt&lt;/em&gt;! That certainly convinced me that finish was the way to go most of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Exceptions would be very dense, naturally oily or resinous woods. The kind of woods that don't float in water. But I must mention that most of these are from the tropics and many are now restricted because of rarity and in an attempt to curb illegal logging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-11-04T11:45:39.760" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4935" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4936" CreationDate="2016-11-04T14:28:36.530" Score="4" ViewCount="2803" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to sharpen drill bits, wood turning tools and what ever else you would sharpen in the wood shop. I am told that a 6&quot; is okay but should really get a 8&quot;. I am looking at Ryobi brand bench grinders. How long would the big one last to the small on? Is there better sharpening quality on the bigger than smaller since there is a smaller radius in the angle. I like the 8&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2018-11-08T14:50:20.110" LastActivityDate="2018-11-08T14:50:20.110" Title="6&quot; or 8&quot; bench grinder" Tags="|sharpening|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4935" CreationDate="2016-11-04T18:19:40.983" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is unfortunately one of those things where there'll be many differences of opinion, for some people it's 8&quot; all the way and things smaller are nearly toys. But for tool sharpening and the occasional metalwork shaping job 6&quot; is most definitely adequate. In fact for a lot of leisure woodworkers even smaller than this is perfectly usable, just somewhat slower. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth remembering that as far as sharpening goes grinding is only necessary every now and then unless you're a woodturner. For bench chisels, plane irons and anything else you might run over a grinder's wheel to shape the edge, grinding is not a daily, weekly or even monthly task for the majority of users. It may not even be necessary once a year given the slow rate of wear for the typical woodworker!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there better sharpening quality on the bigger than smaller since there is a smaller radius in the angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people argue that there is, but in most cases it makes no practical difference in the edge produced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Larger grinders are generally more powerful (which is good for a couple of reasons) and can often be faster as well, and while there's a perception that this is a Good Thing too, it often isn't in sharpening. With just about any grinder we already have to take pains not to overheat the tips of chisels when shaping them (sometimes called 'blueing' because the steel turns blue when it has overheated). As should be obvious the faster the grinder the more care you have to exercise, generally speaking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the outright speed of a grinder another reason an 8&quot; needs to be used more carefully than a 6&quot; because for any given speed the surface of an 8&quot; wheel is actually moving much faster — so &lt;em&gt;at the same RPM&lt;/em&gt; an 8&quot; grinder is more likely to overheat a tool than a smaller one, everything else being equal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's beyond the scope of this Answer but you should also look into the various wheel types available, how fast and how cool they cut can vary quite a lot (but not uniformly, CBN wheels are generally the best of both worlds but you do pay for the privilege).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Closing note:&lt;/strong&gt; also remember that you don't absolutely &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; a grinder. They are very handy, but as far as care and maintenance of woodworking tools goes you can quite happily do without one, as was fairly common until quite recently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With diamond plates being freely available now and coarse ones cutting so quickly some of the jobs that used to be &quot;I'm gonna need to use a grinder for this!&quot; can actually be accomplished by hand within a reasonable timeframe, q.v. the complete re-grind of a chisel in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2403/does-it-matter-what-kind-of-diamond-stone-i-get/2407#2407&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also see:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3670/bench-grinder-tool-sharpener-or-sharpening-stone&quot;&gt;Bench grinder, tool sharpener or sharpening stone?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2398/how-does-one-aggressively-sharpen-chisels-and-plane-irons-when-damaged&quot;&gt;How does one aggressively sharpen chisels and plane irons when damaged?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-11-04T18:19:40.983" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4940" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-07T17:50:09.913" Score="4" ViewCount="1290" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to make a jig for sharpening my lathe tools and I want to mark on the jig where each tool should be sharpened to. Like the roughing gouge to the skew and stuff. So for each of these different tools, what angle should they be at? If I need to list the different tools then ask. Otherwise I mostly want to know for the 6 (or so) main types. The more covered the better! The idea is to be sharpened on a bench grinder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2016-11-23T08:30:20.297" Title="What are recommended angles for different wood-turning tools" Tags="|wood|sharpening|turning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4941" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-07T23:02:36.270" Score="6" ViewCount="528" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making some reparation to the house I recently moved in. The floor is in a terrible state and I'd like to bring a new life to the floors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The wood has been painted in red/brown with some kind of paint. I can't tell exactly which but in some places, paint is easy to remove. The paint is hard and when removed, it leaves sharp edges...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;From what I could find around the house, the wood board should be 40mm thick or more. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In most places, it is visible that the floor suffered from time and needs some sanding to remove marks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boards have a lot of space between them so I'm not sure if I should leave the space or try to fill in something.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I believe the house has been built when the wood wasn't exactly dry, for that reason most boards aren't exactly planes but are curved a little (convex).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, I'd like to have the floor as plane as possible without marks. I went to the shop and was wondering which tool I should use to do that in a cleanly way. I saw that there are electric &quot;plane&quot; &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plane_%28tool%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plane_%28tool%29&lt;/a&gt; and other sanding machine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure exactly how I should get started, which tool to buy and how I should use the plane or sanding machine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2898" LastActivityDate="2016-11-08T09:39:33.617" Title="How to fix a wooden floor" Tags="|wood|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4941" CreationDate="2016-11-08T09:39:33.617" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the past removal of old finish from floors was done manually, by scraping, and it does a superb job and doesn't generate large volumes of dust. But it's backbreaking labour and can't be recommended to anyone not used to this sort of exertion, and especially if working on anything other than a small area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These days the standard way to refinish solid-wood floors (and some laminates) is to sand them. It is not common for people to buy a tool for this however, but instead to rent a purpose-made floor sander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Equipment&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Floor sanders look something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bj5fp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bj5fp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Flooring sanders&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are a specialist form of belt sander, using rotating belts of abrasive paper or cloth. You will have to buy a few for this job, and depending on the size of your home you may have to buy many so it's important to budget for this as they are sometimes not cheap to purchase retail. Their cost on top of the hire cost of the sander(s) should be factored in before you begin, and weighed against the cost of hiring professionals to do the job for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of their design upright floor sanders can't sand right up to the edges of a floor so some form of smaller sander (sometimes an 'edging sander') is used for the periphery. You can buy a sanding machine for this part of the job, one that will then have further use in your woodworking but you can also rent sanders for this from the same places that rent out upright floor sanders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edging sanders usually look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2vTVB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2vTVB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Edging sanders&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll also need to tackle the corners which most (all?) edging sanders can't reach into. You can do this using various types of detail sander or an oscillating tool, any type of sander with a triangular pad, but it can also be done by scraping. You'll see more on this in the links below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Preparation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When sanding solid-wood floors some basic preparations are necessary so as not to cause rips in the paper. The main thing to do is find your nails and make sure they are punched well below the surface, using a nail punch and a hammer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not vital but a heavier hammer will help do this with less effort, you have a lot of nails to deal with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Personal protection&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You'll note in one of the above images that although the floor sander has a dust bag the operator is also wearing a dust mask. Don't overlook this important safety measure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood dust is an irritant at least and potentially toxic (depending on the wood type as well as the individual person's sensitivity), and although exposure to small amounts is usually not a problem it's best to avoid inhaling it when possible. But the dust generated from the previous floor finish should always be considered toxic because you can't know what it is or what it has been contaminated with over the years, so you don't want to breath in any. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sanding through the grits&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The pictures above don't exaggerate the power of these sanders, they can take off the previous finish in a single pass in many cases. This is possible because for the first pass or two you use very coarse paper, which is extremely abrasive and fast-cutting, but leaves noticeable scratches in the wood. As with all sanding you remove these scratches using finer papers in succession, concluding with your finish grit. The final grit used on a floor may be 100 or so, depending on the flooring and the finish you require. This is relatively coarse by woodworking standards but floors don't need to be sanded to the same level as a piece of furniture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Standard advice here: don't skip grits. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hire shop may have some advice on the grits to use with their floor sander but you should compare it to the information in the links below and any other guides you read. It sounds from your description of the condition of your floors that you will want to start with a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; coarse grit at least in some places, possibly as low as 36, and will then go to a more normal 'coarse' grit of something like 60 and move up from there, e.g. 60, 80, 100.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't underestimate the time&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This job takes longer than people tend to expect because you are in effect sanding each room's floor multiple times as you can see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember to scrutinise your floor at each stage in the sanding, you're only done when all the coarser scratches are gone.... not when you're tired and can't be bothered to continue :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't underestimate the effort&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Spreading the job over a number of weekends is almost certainly the way to go. The floor in a single room can often take a whole weekend, and most people are exhausted afterwards (as in, &quot;I needed to rest for a couple of days after finishing my living room&quot;) so unless you're particularly fit don't expect that you can hire a sander for a week and zoom through the whole house in one go! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further reading (I would advise reading all of these are even a couple of others before beginning work):&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.doityourself.com/stry/hardwoodfloorsanding&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Finishing Hardwood Floors 6 - Sanding&lt;/a&gt; on doityourself.com&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/rooms-and-spaces/floors/how-to-sand-a-hardwood-floor&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Sand a Hardwood Floor&lt;/a&gt; on DIY Network.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Last but not least, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodfloordoctor.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wood Floor Doctor&lt;/a&gt; site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; your floors may be softwood so some adjustment of technique may be necessary, but the basics are the same for all wood and bamboo flooring too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-11-08T09:39:33.617" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4943" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-08T23:31:49.473" Score="1" ViewCount="100" Body="&lt;p&gt;How does this guy do to get this kind of stain/finish. It is dark in some areas and light in others. This was a small chuck of the show table that I thought would be the most useful. Does anybody know how this is done for such a neat look? (not including the scratching :P)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mLcn8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mLcn8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wood from my show-table.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2016-11-09T01:13:00.753" Title="Type of stain...?" Tags="|finishing|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4943" CreationDate="2016-11-09T01:13:00.753" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off you should recognise this as softwood and most softwoods have soft (and consequently absorbent) earlywood while the denser latewood is very much the opposite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to these characteristic something like this can be done by two methods, staining or scorching. In both cases the earlywood goes dark while the latewood remains largely unchanged, at worst creating this sort of garish stripy effect where the grain flips or &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2803/how-can-i-match-gunstock-oak-with-pine/2805#2805&quot;&gt;reverses&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if it's just the photo but the wood also looks quite yellow, which might be due to varnish, either a spar varnish which is more obviously yellow initially or a normal varnish that's been on for a while — all oil-based varnishes age and become more yellow over time. In addition the wood itself 'mellows' with exposure to light and becomes naturally more yellow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-11-09T01:13:00.753" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4945" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4957" CreationDate="2016-11-10T14:19:55.110" Score="3" ViewCount="1012" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at possibly buying a shop press to use in making a skateboard deck (to shape the wood by pressing it into a mold), and as this is a tool I haven't seen used before, I'd like to ask: what other good uses does a shop press have in a woodworking shop?  Is it worth $100 for a little one, or $200 for a 20-ton press?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1040" LastActivityDate="2016-11-11T09:56:00.970" Title="What other uses are there for a shop press?" Tags="|tools|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4946" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4954" CreationDate="2016-11-10T16:25:10.067" Score="5" ViewCount="1169" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on this thing (60&quot; wide x 41.75&quot; high [elbow height] x 14&quot; deep) (shelves on left and right are adjustable, I might ditch the little border thing on top):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mfQDa.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mfQDa.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's purpose is general storage near an entry way, the top will primarily be used for mail, documents, etc. The large space is for storage baskets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I try to tell people what I'm making, I find that I'm saying &quot;it's this shelf sort of table-y storage thing on the floor, or something, or... whatever, let's talk about something else&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I've seen furniture like this before. Cabinets that sit on the floor with shelves and stuff and a waist/elbow high top. My question is, what are these called? I want to say &quot;I am building a _______.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went through Wikipedia's &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_furniture_types&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;list of furniture types&lt;/a&gt; but I couldn't find it. There are &quot;entertainment centers&quot;, but that's not actually what this is for, and it's a little high even if I were going to put entertainment stuff on it. It's &lt;em&gt;kind of&lt;/em&gt; like a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sideboard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sideboard&lt;/a&gt;, maybe? It's not a dresser, there's no drawers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure this has a name I just don't know what it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2016-11-11T03:21:01.370" LastActivityDate="2016-11-11T03:21:01.370" Title="Furniture name for waist-high floor-sitting shelf cabinet thing" Tags="|furniture|terminology|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4945" CreationDate="2016-11-10T16:48:40.343" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A press is more of a metal forming tool than a woodworking tool.  For wood, you will typically use steam bending or a similar technique to make curves in wood.  Wood will need to stay in a form for some period of time in order to maintain its shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically a hydraulic press will be used to press (insert) or remove bearings or be used with dies to act as a press break for forming metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2016-11-10T16:48:40.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4948" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4953" CreationDate="2016-11-10T18:11:23.447" Score="15" ViewCount="26501" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some 0.75&quot; x 14&quot; wide boards that I'm trying cut to lengths in the 50-60&quot; range. It's important that the cuts be precise, and true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, 14&quot; is too wide for any of my sleds or miter slides on my table saw. I'm having a very difficult time cutting these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The closest I've got so far is to attach the miter slide to the board and slide it through. The problem is it's 1) very difficult to position the edge of the blade at the cut line while also positioning the board on the slide, and 2) at the start of the cut the slide is barely in the track, maybe a half inch or so, and it doesn't stabilize until it's about 6&quot; in, so it's extremely difficult to keep the cut straight (this also makes problem #1 even harder):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MXX8S.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MXX8S.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(That drawing is not really to scale but hopefully it is clear.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The right edge of that board isn't actually straight, so I couldn't put, say, a fence over there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tried building a really long sled but I haven't been able to make anything satisfactory, esp. having problems making long straight slides that are smooth in the tracks, and making it strong enough to support the piece. So far either that seems to be an impossible task, or I don't have the skill for it, or a combination of both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are my options? I don't mind building other sleds, I'm just... not sure what to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it is not the 50-60&quot; length that is the problem, it is the 14&quot; width that is the problem in relation to the front-to-back size of my table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-01-12T13:58:05.147" LastActivityDate="2019-01-17T09:02:37.790" Title="How can I accurately cross-cut a board that is too wide for my table saw?" Tags="|technique|table-saw|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4948" CreationDate="2016-11-10T19:33:47.767" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In this case you need to use a circular saw (or handsaw).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need 2 saw horses. (If you were cutting in the middle of a long board, you might need 3 saw horses or even 4 if you want to maximize stability.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You set the board up on the saw horses and then use the circular saw in conjunction with a square. There are many different commercial circular saw squares you can buy, such as the Kreg &quot;Square-Cut&quot; (just one example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastEditorUserId="306" LastEditDate="2016-11-10T19:50:42.783" LastActivityDate="2016-11-10T19:50:42.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4948" CreationDate="2016-11-10T19:37:33.903" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a track saw for all cuts like this.  I have the Festool, but the Dewalt or Makita ones work well also, or you can &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=thddTmC6nr4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;make a DIY version&lt;/a&gt; of one with some 1/2&quot; plywood and a circular saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I place the plywood on a sheet of foam insulation on the ground so it is supported on both sides of the cut.  Much easier than trying to manhandle large sheets of plywood or MDF, and quite accurate as well.  I use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.senecawoodworking.com/products/parallel-guide-system-for-incra-t-track-plus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Seneca Parallel Guides&lt;/a&gt; for making repeat cuts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like this so much that I cut down the fence on my Unisaw from 52&quot; to 34&quot; since I never use the table saw for sheet goods any more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JQ85i.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JQ85i.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2016-11-10T19:37:33.903" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4946" CreationDate="2016-11-10T19:40:03.593" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are moments when it is incumbent upon a modern people to invent new terms :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest &quot;entry hutch&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2016-11-10T19:40:03.593" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4948" CreationDate="2016-11-10T19:57:52.283" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is something that I would not want to cross cut on the table saw in this case. If you had a sliding panel saw, you could but not in this case. This is a perfect scenario for a track saw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I am assuming you do not own one, or you would have already used it, you can make your own straight edge for a normal circular saw fairly easily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it were me, I would cut it close with a jigsaw, and then use a straight edge, and a flush trim bit on a router to get it exact&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastActivityDate="2016-11-10T19:57:52.283" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4946" CreationDate="2016-11-10T22:23:54.520" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would call that a &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/credenza&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;credenza&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A sideboard, buffet, or bookcase patterned after a Renaissance credence; especially: one without legs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Credenza&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;adds&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;particularly one where a central cupboard is flanked by quadrant glass display cabinets&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which I might generalize to &quot;central cupboard flanked by shelves&quot;, I'm not sure I'd require &quot;glass display cabinets&quot;.  Looking through &lt;a href=&quot;https://encrypted.google.com/search?q=credenza&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwj66ITxnJ_QAhXo8YMKHVY6AsQQ_AUICSgC&amp;amp;biw=1139&amp;amp;bih=812#tbm=isch&amp;amp;q=credenza&amp;amp;chips=q:credenza,g_1:victorian&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Google images&lt;/a&gt;, that seems to apply mostly to Victorian-styled cabinets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9zy41.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9zy41.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're typically lower than your 41&quot; height, but that's otherwise a credenza.  Historically, they were used to hold food and utensils for serving in a dining room, but they're now common as an office storage add-on to a main desk or a decorative/storage cabinet that goes against a wall, and is not mounted under a counter or as an end table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2905" LastActivityDate="2016-11-10T22:23:54.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4948" CreationDate="2016-11-11T01:42:54.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a miter saw you could make one cut and get about halfway (or more,  depending on the blade size) through the 14&quot;. Flip the board over so the side with the cut is facing out, line the blade up in the kerf of the first cut, and finish the cut that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastActivityDate="2016-11-11T01:42:54.180" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4956" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-11T04:40:23.987" Score="1" ViewCount="761" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got the idea of looking to see what it cost to make homemade sandpaper belts for my belt sander would be. For me less than a $1 per belt. Math being about $30 for 20-25 Yards of sandpaper (roll) and $10 for epoxy. Around a good belt is $2.50 and cheap is $1.50 (cheap ones are not to fun...). I have seen a little video on this which is the reason I say epoxy. This person did a 1/2&quot; over lap after filing the sand and then clued with epoxy. Clamping the epoxy is very flexible but I would not know what epoxy to use. And if epoxy is a good choice. Note: Roll on sanding paper is on a cloth like my current belts. So my questions being,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q1) What glue would be best (Or Cloth tape?)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q2) Is 1/2&quot; overlap ideal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q3) thinking a 20 degree cuts for the joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can not think of anything else but anything on making these would be great. People do it and stuff, but I can not find how to do it! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2016-11-15T11:08:56.283" Title="Homemade belt sander belts (3X18)" Tags="|sanding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4945" CreationDate="2016-11-11T09:56:00.970" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your need is to produce skateboards then I think the press would be a worthwhile investment given the prices you quote, but for just one (or occasional decks built periodically) then clamps can do what you require, with a little more effort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bigger clamps can exert enormous pressures and combined you could easily get to the pressing force of one of these presses. And you'll always find further uses for whatever clamps you get*, while the shop press will sit there taking up valuable space while you struggle to find other ways to make use of it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Excluding pipe clamps which I don't think are applicable here C-clamps are the most powerful clamps woodworkers have available, but both larger C-clamps and well-made F-clamps are good candidates here.  8&quot; C-clamps can individually produce nearly 7,000 psi so it's easy enough to imagine what four of them spread around a forming jig or clamping caul might be able to do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need a wider opening than an 8&quot; model will provide the clamping force goes up the larger the clamp is so you'll potentially have even higher pressures available to you if you have to go larger. But larger Cs are increasingly expensive and tend to be less useful (in addition be being very heavy) so F-clamps begin to make more sense if you need a large opening, and they're more versatile in woodworking. As well as being lighter of course they're faster to set and both can be boons in future clamping situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Remembering the woodworker's mantra — &lt;em&gt;you can never have too many clamps&lt;/em&gt; :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-11-11T09:56:00.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4956" CreationDate="2016-11-11T15:53:31.143" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many different resources, or how to videos doing  quick search, but here is where I would start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.fastcap.com/2012/make-your-own-sanding-belts/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Make Your Own Sanding Belts - FastCap&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/52E1ELDVs5g&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Make Your Own Sanding Belts - Video&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key points are he is using pieces from drum sander belts, but whatever you are using should work the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mark your length on each end of the strip, then overlap them so the two marks line up, and then cut the angle on both ends of the paper at the same time with a single cut. This way the angle doesn't matter, and the straightness of the cut do not matter. They will match up perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then use FastCap speed tape, double sided tape on the back side over the joint, using enough to extend each direction from the seam a couple of inches. Trim the excess flush on the edges of your new belt. Then once you put it on the sander, use a roller on the taped portion of the belt to ensure a good bond with the tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastEditorUserId="2753" LastEditDate="2016-11-15T11:08:56.283" LastActivityDate="2016-11-15T11:08:56.283" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4959" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4960" CreationDate="2016-11-11T20:00:44.813" Score="5" ViewCount="1939" Body="&lt;p&gt;We recently moved and a bed was not put back together properly (wrong screws were used). As a result one of the boards split where a screw joins the long side board to a leg. You can see the split and screw hole at the top of the picture below. The board split cleanly and the other part (not pictured) is one complete piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not experienced in wood working and have done only small repairs before. Can I just (clamp and) glue the two parts back together? Will it hold? Do I need any additional braces or supports? Any tips on making it look nice if braces are needed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BgwSh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BgwSh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Split board&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2907" LastEditorUserId="2907" LastEditDate="2016-11-11T20:07:51.223" LastActivityDate="2016-11-14T09:18:28.683" Title="Advice on repairing a broken bed" Tags="|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4959" CreationDate="2016-11-11T21:59:19.983" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears you are on the right track. It should be possible to repair the piece by gluing it.  You will need 3 or 4 clamps to keep the loose piece in full contact with the board shown in the photo.  Use a wood glue such as Titebond (1,2, 0r 3 will all work) available at hardware stores, Home Depot or Lowes.  Place ample glue on both contact faces liberally so that some will squeeze out when the clamps are tightened. You can clean up the squeeze out with a damp rag. Let the whole thing set overnight and it should be ready to reassemble.  Good Luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-11-11T21:59:19.983" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4961" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4963" CreationDate="2016-11-12T01:06:38.653" Score="9" ViewCount="1293" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wish to get into wood carving I just don't know where to start and what I should be looking for when looking for a set of carving tools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What determines the quality of one set over another? Yes, I understand some sets come with more tools and that can be the reason behind a price difference but then I see some sets with no more than 1-2 extra tools that have extremely varied prices. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other areas of woodworking tools I can see why one brand would cost more than another because of quality, manufacturing, and material differences but when it comes to carving tools the only one I see applying is material differences but even then I don't believe that would account for the degree of the price differences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;QUESTIONS&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the quality characteristics used to define quality: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;durability?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hardness of the metal?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;resistance to corrosion?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ergonomics?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which are typically most important to new woodworkers?  Any info anyone can offer is gladly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2271" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-11-13T14:23:57.867" LastActivityDate="2016-11-13T14:23:57.867" Title="What determines carving tools/chisels quality?" Tags="|hand-tools|tools|tool-selection|carving|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4961" CreationDate="2016-11-12T02:08:06.023" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well from what I can think off hand this might be helpful for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Thickness of metal, yup. My dad gotten a cheap set for wood carving. The metal was THIN. Less than a 1/8&quot;. I would try finding something thicker simply because that thin metal bends so easily. (I am not aware of thicker carving tools simply because I am not into it)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Cut/grind. I got some cheap chisels this week. They were $5 for 3. They cut fine but when you look up at the tip it was not pretty. There were plenty of little nicks if you will. So you may need a whetstone or something to fix that. Even sandpaper works. As for bevel just keep it as is. Others I think mine is about 25-35 degrees. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That was 2 things I could think of that is needed to be expected with cheap stuff. As for determining quality this is all I have to say. If the set is cheap and there a good 8 different tools, you might get nothing but C-R-A-P. Most are going to be Steel. I am sure there are different types but all I can say is, one type could be weaker than the next. But is there is one for the same amount that should be good. Other words you get what you pay for.&#xA;That is all I have. Not in this area but might be helpful. Sorry if I miss something...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2016-11-12T02:08:06.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4961" CreationDate="2016-11-12T02:59:07.873" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is actually a pretty broad topic, but other than marketing decided price (brand A being more expensive than brand B simply because of the brand name) there may be large difference in manufacturing of the chisels that can affect price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll address general woodworking chisels, but I suspect that the same applies to the various carving chisels (as well as for turning gouges).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic requirements from a chisel (in my view) are good edge retention and easy to sharpen to a very sharp edge, so you get a sharp edge that lasts a long time during work. These two are almost opposite in their demands from the tool, but high end chisels achieve them both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Metallurgy - the exact formulation of the steel used in the tool is extremely important for its performance. It is not that the components of the steel are expensive, it is that getting the precise ratios of different elements in the alloy takes knowledge, experience and tight tolerances on production. All of these cost money. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat treatment - this is also an important step that requires all the knowledge and experience as the alloy formulation, and it needs to be exact for each individual chisel (not just the batch of metal used). For example, the kilns used for heat treatment must be uniform in temperature, or some chisels will be too hot during treatment and some too cold. This costs money.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A unique feature of chisels (and plane irons) is the back hollow - since a chisel will often be resharpened by the end user, a hollow back will facilitate this. This is typically done by choosing the hollow face of the chisel blank after heat treatment and using that side as the back. This is an additional manual step in production. Manual steps cost money.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quality of initial sharpening and finish - grinding the chisel flat and true, creating the cutting bevel and honing the edge are all steps that take time. Cheap chisels may be completely dull right out of the box, while quality chisels are typically well finished (although these are often expected of the end-user to dress and sharpen before first use).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quality of the handle - both the choice of the wood (or plastic) and the structure of the handle (with appropriately sized reinforcements). A cheap chisel might have a thin and weak retaining ring, with the handle made of softer wood or with less attention to the grain being clear and straight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are probably more parts that can cost money (like the box/bag the chisels come in, different widths costing more, etc.), but I think the above are both the most crucial to the chisel's performance as well as being the most expensive in production.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2016-11-12T02:59:07.873" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4961" CreationDate="2016-11-12T03:36:35.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are just starting, your main problem is not going to be tool quality, it is going to be getting the right tool for the job. For example, one old book recommended the following as a set of basic shapes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TiXoo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TiXoo.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This obviously does not include v-notches, punches, picks and other essential utility shapes. Altogether a complete set of shapes might include 60 different tools. At $50 per chisel, that is $3000.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good tools have good steel, grinds, flex correctly for the type of wood being used (if it is hand carved), or have good ferrules if used with a mallet, and have the right temper. All of this stuff will be hard to judge for a beginner, or even for an expert. Some chrome-vanadium steels are crap, others are high quality, can you tell the difference? Many experts can't even tell the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of my pet peeves is that virtually all commercially sold chisels have handles that are too small. A handle should fill your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main thing you want to do is limit yourself to a very simple, very specific type of carving and get the exact tools needed for that type, then branch out from there. Once you start doing work, it will become more obvious what kind of tools you find most useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2016-11-12T03:36:35.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4961" CreationDate="2016-11-12T09:02:04.430" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;TL;DR warning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In other areas of woodworking tools I can see why one brand would cost more than another because of quality, manufacturing, and material differences &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You forgot one other important factor, which is paying for the name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately there's a lot of this in woodworking and it extends through all levels of tools (both power and hand). You tend to pay a premium for established name brands and the better the name's reputation the greater the additional payment. And this additional money does not necessarily net you a greatly superior tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not to say you can't get what you pay for when you buy an established name, but unfortunately paying a premium price is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; a guarantee of getting a premium product. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Steel type&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The 'sweet spot' for steel in chisels is arguably now CrV, an alloy of steel containing chromium and vanadium which give some additional benefits over basic carbon steel without adding greatly to its cost. As a result inexpensive, even cheap, chisels can now be of more than merely acceptable quality, as shown by the very inexpensive chisels sold by the Aldi chain that were plugged for many years by Paul Sellers as being the best buy in all of woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Heat treat&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The above being said the heat treat is everything, and no matter the quality of the steel it can be wasted if it's not heat treated well — the edge won't be worth a damn, if too hard it'll be prone to crumbling or cracking, if too soft it won't hold an edge for long as well as being prone to what's called edge folding which is exactly what it sounds like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good news is that if you do get a chisel that is too hard or too soft you can rectify this at home with simple equipment that won't cost much (if you have a gas cooker or range you may even be able to do it using one of your burners). This is extremely good news for any budget-minded carver as in addition to the obvious of giving you the ability to improve the quality of the edge of any cheaper carving tools you buy (I should stress here, IF this is needed) it opens up the possibility of making your own tools from scratch, either starting with cheap bench chisels or from raw steel stock&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What determines the quality of one set over another? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One additional issue here is your focus on sets. Although this varies a little with some tool types it is generally acknowledged that sets are often not the great buy they appear to be — they tend to give you a few tools you'll use a lot, one or two you'll use infrequently and a couple you will never use. The larger the set the more this is true, for most people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand sets can be very affordable and give an introductory selection of tool types that you want to try if you haven't carved before so the appeal is understandable. But do be aware that you will very likely pay for one or two you won't use much or at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The usual recommendation when new users are being steered away from sets is to identify the tools you're sure you'll need&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; and buy only those initially. Once you start to price individual carving tools this sounds like a very expensive route and it can be if you go crazy and buy dozens of tools initially, but no beginner should do this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While many long-time pros have very large chisel collections (some are nearly unbelievably large&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;) you can do a lot with just a handful of chisels and a knife or two if you apply yourself and figure out how to shape. I have a sculptor friend, not a carver, and looking at his work and the minimal toolkit he uses to do it (the majority of which he made himself) has convinced me yet again of the fact that it's possible to do great work with minimal tools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In carving, at the other end of the spectrum from Grinling Gibbons we can look today at some of the virtuoso carvers in the Middle East and Asia working in dirt-floored workshops who sometimes only have about a dozen tools at their disposal!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my advice would be to get a few tools (in a set if you work it out and this is the cheapest way to get every shape you've identified you need) and then learn to use them to their fullest potential — this isn't carving for 10 or 20 or even 50 hours and struggling to do certain tasks, this is weeks of dedicated work, or months if you can only carve occasionally. &lt;em&gt;Then&lt;/em&gt; go shopping for more if/when you find it's necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't overlook sharpening&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Even some very good tools won't be supplied fully sharpened. Cheaper carving tools (which may be of acceptable quality for you at this stage) will almost invariably be sold blunt, just ground to shape and with the expectation that the user will sharpen them before they're first used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do buy a set that's sharp just as with bench chisels you &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; need to sharpen them fairly soon after you buy them because they will blunt slightly through use (the harder or more abrasive the wood your work with the faster this will occur). More sharp is always preferable to less charp obviously but carving chisels in particular are very often used cross-grain, this requires the best edge you can manage for the cleanest cuts because you're consistently working show surfaces that won't be cleaned up or refined afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are numerous previous Q&amp;amp;As related to sharpening here if you need some guidance in this area. If you don't have anything currently at the least I would recommend getting some quality abrasive paper (wet/dry type) up to 600 grit and making yourself a strop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A final word about handles&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A lot is said about the need for good handles on chisels generally and carving tools as well. So broad agreement there, what there isn't broad agreement on is what constitutes a good handle. It's very much a matter of personal preference &lt;em&gt;and hand size&lt;/em&gt; what makes a good handle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What one guy likes another won't mind, and you can bet you'll find a third who loves them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So don't be completely put off by someone else's hatred for a handle type due to material (e.g. they hate plastic) or size (two common complaints being &quot;They're too big&quot; and &quot;They're tool small&quot; so you can see that it's hard for manufacturers to win that one LOL) or shape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can remake existing handles to better suit your tastes, as shown by &lt;a href=&quot;https://paulsellers.com/2014/12/changing-the-shape-of-ash-chisel-handles/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Paul Sellers on the Aldi chisels&lt;/a&gt;. The handles on the Aldi chisels are not widely liked so there are also many re-handling jobs out there online to find (including by Mr. Sellers) and they range from the utilitarian to the extravagant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember this above all: &lt;em&gt;you're a woodworker, if you need to you can make a set of handles for yourself&lt;/em&gt;! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although if you pay a lot for a tool you won't want to sometimes this is the best route to getting a handle that &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; like best. Even some pretty high-end chisels (e.g. Veritas, L-N, Sorby) have had the DIY handle treatment to better suit the tastes or requirements of their owmers, so complete replacement is by no means confined to cheaper chisels with mediocre handles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;If you're interested in this there are many resources online you can tap, but a great starting point would be &lt;strong&gt;Make Your Own Woodworking Tools: Metalwork Techniques to Create, Customize, and Sharpen in the Home Workshop&lt;/strong&gt; by Mike Burton. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;Use a number of books and online guides to determine this, not what looks like it will be useful to your untrained eye. You can use your own judgement in the future to buy selectively once you have some experience and have identified gaps in your tooling that would be useful or essential to fill, but initially it's of little or no use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;The famous Grinling Gibbons is said to have left a collection of carving tools numbering in the thousands when he died, although it's not clear if he used all of them his 'working set' was in the hundreds apparently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-11-12T09:02:04.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4966" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4968" CreationDate="2016-11-12T11:28:34.463" Score="2" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was walking out on a trail near my house after a recent storm and found a tree that had been uprooted due to the storm. I plan on cutting up the tree to use it for some turnings but when looking at it I have no idea what the species is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I seem to always have trouble at identifying tree species and was wondering if anybody has any resources/knowledge in the field that they can offer to hopefully help people like me that struggle with this task for the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to that if you happen to be able to identify &quot;my&quot; specific tree species that'd be great. Sadly when I found it all the leaves were already gone so I only have pictures of it's bark. Also the tree was found in the Pacific Northwest Washington area (not sure if that helps or not).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Links to the pictures (sorry apparently they are too large to embed in the post):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BcBNn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BcBNn.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VkSfR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VkSfR.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2271" LastActivityDate="2016-11-13T16:04:07.017" Title="Identifying tree species" Tags="|green-wood|wood-species|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4967" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-11T16:48:21.033" Score="2" ViewCount="4145" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are cutting down a large hardwood tree that we would like to use for table tops.  Can we store the tree trunk before cutting it into pieces for drying and if so, how should it be stored?  Or... do we need to go ahead and have it milled as soon as possible?  Ideally...It might be a year before we would have the trunk milled.  We have no experience in this area.  Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Suz" LastActivityDate="2016-11-15T18:30:54.947" Title="Storing a tree trunk for furniture" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4966" CreationDate="2016-11-12T15:27:53.657" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bruce Hoadley, &quot;Identifying Wood: Accurate Results With Simple Tools&quot; is my go-to when you just have a hunk of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, your tree has neighbors with leaves/needles... it's very unlikely that it's the only one of its species in the area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to go out on a limb (* see what I did there?) and say that you've got some sort of spruce/pine/fir.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2016-11-12T15:27:53.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4967" CreationDate="2016-11-12T19:29:18.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I have seen in some wood working videos is wrapping plastic around it. So get some plastic wrap and wrap all the way around the log. This would keep it safe and stuff but it will also trap in the moisture the wood would have. Which if you do not want then, well sorry but this is all I could offer as a answer. But wrapping it in plastic usually will not allow cracking and some other problems. If you do mill still wrap it up. That will prevent cracking and wrap for sure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2016-11-12T19:29:18.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4966" CreationDate="2016-11-13T16:04:07.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Abies_amabilis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pacific silver fir tree&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time make sure you get a closeup photo of the leaves. That makes it much easier. Bark can vary greatly in appearance due to the age of the tree, but the leaves have the same appearance regardless of the age of the tree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also give the LOCATION. I mean is this a tree in China, in Lebanon, WHERE IS THE TREE??? That makes it much easier to figure out what it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2016-11-13T16:04:07.017" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4971" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4973" CreationDate="2016-11-13T20:12:55.850" Score="4" ViewCount="2861" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to re-design my router table.I used 8mm Iron as plate and cut the support holes with cnc laser, but the heat of cutting deformed the surface and made me to refine that with grinding machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently I found plexiglass, the surface of them is very smooth and I want to replace that ( with 10mm or 15mm ) with current Iron plate .the only concern is the safety and broken risk while working. would you please help me on this matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: I can't order ready aluminum plate and I have to make it on my own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2913" LastActivityDate="2016-11-15T18:11:08.507" Title="Using plexiglass instead of aluminum plate for router table" Tags="|safety|router-table|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4971" CreationDate="2016-11-13T20:46:25.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plexiglass is probably too flexible for this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't get a plate, remember that you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; bolt the router directly to the underside of a table. It isn't as convenient, but it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-11-13T20:46:25.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4971" CreationDate="2016-11-13T21:04:34.057" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plexiglass may not be the best choice, but there are other plastics that may work better with less deflection and a better wearing surface.  Several manufacturer's use phenolic plastics for router plate inserts and there are companies online that sell sheets in a variety of sizes and thicknesses so it should be possible to make your own.  I considered making my own a year ago (but opted for a different approach for my table using mdf board).  If I remember correctly I was considering using 3/8&quot; thick sheet for a 12&quot; square insert plate.    I believe that should be adequate for a router table application.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add an answer to let us know how it works out if you choose this route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-11-13T21:04:34.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4967" CreationDate="2016-11-13T22:22:17.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general no, you can't store large pieces of downed hardwood trees for extended periods and expect to get usable lumber out of them down the road. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although you can 'age' a section of log (even whole tree trunks) it's not something you can get reliable results from*. This applies particularly to hardwood species as the heartwood (which is dead wood even when the tree is living) tends to begin to rot. The rot can then spread to the sapwood, although in most cases it is the heartwood which is most desirable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's a much better idea to get it sawn into slabs/planks as soon as possible and then dry it in that form, suitably stickered and under cover if necessary, depending on your climate and local weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*This is done on a very limited scale commercially possibly because it's difficult to control the outcome. It's so rare that many people working in wood at mill level don't even know of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-11-13T22:22:17.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4975" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4978" CreationDate="2016-11-14T02:38:28.973" Score="3" ViewCount="160" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a few specific woodworking uses for cyanoacrylate (CA, aka. 'super') glue. I'd also like to have some around so I can expand my usage as I find good new wood-related applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My product choices so far (hardware store variety, two in a blister-pack, a fraction of an ounce each) have ended in frustration. Basically the little tubes dry up after the first use. My most common use would be to strengthen tapped threads in MDF, and that only takes a drop or two when I'm making a jig, which isn't every day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see around on videos and so on that folks seem to use CA glue fairly happily, which leads me to believe they're getting more than one usage session from each container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've stored my opened (internal aluminum seal pierced, but cap back on tightly) CA glue tubes in a glass jar filled with fresh silica gel desiccant. I saw a video that said moisture in the air worked its way into the tube through the nylon cap over time. Sounded like a great theory, but didn't work at all. A month after opening a tube it's solid as a rock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I be looking for in the way of a CA glue that won't go hard on the shelf over a month or a year and that will be ready for use whenever the occasion arises?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2023-12-04T19:53:23.163" Title="Choosing a CA glue for general purpose woodworking" Tags="|glue|screws|jig|storage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4959" CreationDate="2016-11-14T09:18:28.683" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;After gluing the break back together you can also reinforce the piece by drilling a hole through the top and putting a screw in or gluing a dowel into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will add strength to the wood across the grain. So that if the wood starts failing again the screw or dowel will hold the pieces together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can hide the screw by recessing it and putting a wooden plug on top of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2016-11-14T09:18:28.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4948" CreationDate="2016-11-14T09:34:44.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not a cut you should be using a miter gauge for. Instead you should be using the fence as the guide. If you don't have a good reference edge you can attach a scrap board that is parallel to the cut you want to make to push against the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check which side of the table saw is bigger, that is where the big piece should be supported. Put the fence on the other side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that is not enough support you can use a sawhorse or two to act as a table extension or actually build table extensions if you expect to do more of these kind of cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2016-11-14T18:47:39.083" LastActivityDate="2016-11-14T18:47:39.083" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4975" CreationDate="2016-11-14T09:42:18.137" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Superglue does tend to begin to set in storage and I believe the &lt;em&gt;usual&lt;/em&gt; consumer experience is you end up wasting most of it :-( The small tubes don't last well after opening and I think can't be reliably made to last well so as keshlam says in a Comment above the plastic bottles could well provide a better long-term storage option. However, you do waste very little glue if one of the tubes goes hard before you go back to it, a gram or two at most. Because the plastic containers are usually do muvh larger if you do have problems using up the remainder before it has gelled or gone hard you lose a lot more. Now this may be offset by the initial lower cost per gram/ounce, you'll have to do the sums for yourself based on what you have available to you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I buy a budget brand in a multi-pack of small tubes (eight per card) and although I nearly never get through a tube before the remaining glue sets it costs so little per tube it seems a negligible waste to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've stored my opened (internal aluminum seal pierced, but cap back on tightly) CA glue tubes in a glass jar filled with fresh silica gel desiccant. I saw a video that said moisture in the air worked its way into the tube through the nylon cap over time. Sounded like a great theory, but didn't work at all. A month after opening a tube it's solid as a rock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is moisture that kicks off the cyanoacrylate setting reaction so keeping water vapour from the liquid glue in the tube/bottle is the key to storage. If you live somewhere with higher humidity you're already behind the eight ball as far as CA longevity is concerned. People who report excellent long-term storage of superglue without taking extraordinary measures are often living in dry climates and may not specify this, giving unrealistic ideas of what others can expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The method you describe is an excellent general approach I think. It limits the amount of air the glue is exposed to and additionally dries out whatever air is trapped in the jar. There are two things you should check though to ensure you're getting the best results. The first is whether the jar is actually air-tight. The second and less obvious one is is your silica gel still capable of absorbing moisture?&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two tips for storing opened containers of CA that I'm most familiar with are in the fridge and sealing the cap somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fridges are well known for their ability to dry out food that isn't wrapped properly so it's easy to see they'll help keep dry anything that's stored in them&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second main method I'm aware of is to seal either the threads in the cap, or the edge of the cap. The two ways this is commonly done that I've seen are to use Vaseline on the threads, or to tape the edge. Common tapes don't do a particularly good job here but they're better than nothing. The ideal thing to use here is something purpose-made as a moisture seal and Parafilm is one of those, made as a laboratory sealant film and available in rolls of various widths and length. It's not cheap but it goes a long way so a roll about the size of your average roll of duct tape may last you the rest of your life. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It only occurred to me while I was writing this that you could also use caulk to seal the cap edge, that might be worth experimenting with as caulk should be 100% waterproof and will easily peel from hard plastics. Of course then you have the problem of how to seal the caulk nozzle properly LOL&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Be realistic&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Now all the above tips aside, they all make sense and sound like they should work well, but for one reason or another I've found that nothing works reliable or repeatedly. So I don't think it's realistic for most of us to expect to be able to store an opened container of CA for a year and come back to it to find it in exactly the condition we left it. It would be great if we could, but I suspect that only those living somewhere with lower humidity can actually get this sort of shelf life. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;As silica gel is always absorbing moisture in a lot of places if it's over a couple of &lt;em&gt;weeks&lt;/em&gt; old it's already less effective than it should be according to what I've read, and after a few months nearly anywhere it could already be saturated with water or nearly so. Good news on this front though — silica gel can be dried out and reused endlessly. Yeah I didn't know that for most of my life either. The number of packs I threw away...! But anyway, you can Google around for more details but basically you dry it out in a warm oven, either as loose crystals spread out on a clean baking tray or within the original packets works in some cases (you may get some slight scorching of the paper or whatever the material is but this is just cosmetic).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After drying silica gel should always be stored double-bagged in zip-locks or in an air-tight jar to maintain it for use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;There is a slight catch here, especially for anyone dealing with a high-humidity environment — the tube or bottle being so much colder will tend to actively condense moisture from the air when brought out and opened, which can lead to premature setting of the remaining glue in the container. So it's imperative if you store your glue in the fridge to warm the tube or bottle up before opening it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-11-14T09:42:18.137" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4971" CreationDate="2016-11-14T12:25:37.097" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use some 3/8&quot; lexan, which you can usually get from the Home Store. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend some solid surface(ie. Corian, etc.) if you can get your hands on a piece. It can be machined using normal woodworking tools, and is very stable, and has a smooth finish that is great for durability and sliding parts across easily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastActivityDate="2016-11-14T12:25:37.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4980" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4981" CreationDate="2016-11-14T17:07:31.137" Score="2" ViewCount="923" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to create a topper for my subwoofers to turn them into an end-table/subwoofer.  My plan is to get a piece of 1&amp;frac38;&quot; butcher block and take about &amp;frac12;&quot; out of the middle so it will fit over the top off the woofer so it doesn't slide around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I remove just the middle part of the wood?  I'm not sure if this is called an inset or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gVDtd.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gVDtd.png&quot; alt=&quot;inset&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2925" OwnerDisplayName="tjcinnamon" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2016-11-15T20:39:48.280" LastActivityDate="2016-11-28T20:33:23.527" Title="How can I carve out an inset in butcher block?" Tags="|wood|furniture|butcher-block|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4980" CreationDate="2016-11-14T17:40:03.753" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One option would be to mount a long baseplate on your router (like a long piece of plywood or mdf with a hole in it for your bit), so that it spans across the width of the butcher block at all times. Then if you use a flush trim bearing bit, you can create a template the size of the cutout, and work your way out from the middle until your are flush trimming to the template.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastActivityDate="2016-11-14T17:40:03.753" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4982" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-15T09:23:11.300" Score="4" ViewCount="357" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another of the unusual items I have discovered during the cataloging of my mothers stuff. Not sure what it is or whats its for. Makers name I believe is Hill Bros or it could be Mill Bros. Its difficult to see as the first letter and the beginning of the address seems to have been worn away in use. So I guess its held at this point whilst being used. There are no other markings either on the brass body nor the steel movable piece. Its very simply made with the brass part measuring 8&quot; long X 1/4 &quot; thick. The steel part is 9&quot; long  x !/8&quot; thick with no graduations, movable and lockable via the thumb screw. The ends of the steel piece are shaped but not sharpened as would be if used as a scribe. Interesting find! Has anyone any idea what it is and what it is used for? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kKKoh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kKKoh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; Possibly some kind of depth finder?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2666" LastActivityDate="2020-06-28T18:18:08.443" Title="Can anyone Identify what this item is and what its used for?" Tags="|hand-tools|measurement|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4982" CreationDate="2016-11-15T13:30:10.930" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that it is a brass masonry square. After looking up what you said was marked on the antique it's seems this is true as there are links to other antiques being sold under the same name. In addition if you wish to look up antique masonry tools(squares) you will find devices that look similar the one you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh also everything I found about the marking on the side and the meaning of it point to the device being made at &quot;234 Wandsworth RD, London&quot; under the manufacturer name &quot;Mill Bros&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2271" LastActivityDate="2016-11-15T13:30:10.930" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4980" CreationDate="2016-11-15T18:04:32.480" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would be way easier to add edging to a board, rather than to rout out a pocket in a single, monolithic piece of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To connect edging to a board you would first cut 45-degree angles on each of the 4 pieces of edging (if you have a mitre saw). To attach the edging to the main board there are multiple options: (1) glue, (2) biscuits, (3) dowel pins, (4) nails, or (5) dovetail (fancy). You can also make a rabbet in the main board and a matching rabbet on the edge pieces with a table saw. This will make for a firmer joint, if desired. One advantage of making a rabbetted joint is that you can screw the edging in from bottom, so the screws will be hidden. The basic idea of rabbetted joint is shown below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jtK7w.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jtK7w.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you can either cut the rabbet from a single board, or just screw boards together and get the same effect, which is even easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To mill a pocket, normally a woodworker will use a router and then chisel out the corners. This is necessary because a router has a round bit, so the corners will be rounded. To make them square, they need to be cut out by hand with a chisel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastEditorUserId="306" LastEditDate="2016-11-16T20:33:32.803" LastActivityDate="2016-11-16T20:33:32.803" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4971" CreationDate="2016-11-15T18:11:08.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plexiglass is probably fine to use as long as it is well-supported. Note that it will be significantly softer than the aluminum, so it will be more prone to getting scratched or marred by anything metal. Therefore, you will want to use soft-jaw clamps, wooden (rather than metal) straight edges, and other more gentle fixturing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you observe those precautions, plexiglass should work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One advantage of plexigass is that it is transparent, so you can, for example, put measuring tape or guidelines on the bottom surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2016-11-15T18:11:08.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4967" CreationDate="2016-11-15T18:30:54.947" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as the trunk is protected from moisture and insects, it will be preserved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is advisable to debark the trunk, because the bark might harbor insects or fungus. After debarking it, rough sand it just to make sure you have a nice clean surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seal both ends of the trunk with polyurethane. This will prevent cracking and splitting, and will also prevent entry of excessive moisture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Store the trunk in a dry place, like a de-humidified basement. If you have to store it outdoors, support it a good 16 inches from the ground and protect it from the rain with a plastic tarp. Use brick or cinder block to keep it off the ground. Make the supports every 30 inches or so, don't just support it at the ends or it will bow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tarp should be air-tight on all sides except the bottom. Even a small hole on the outside will allow rain and flying insects to come in. Flying insects will not normally enter through the bottom. Crawling insects should not be a problem as long as the supports are made of brick or cinder block. (do not make the supports out of wood) Nevertheless, periodically inspect the supports to make sure termites are not making a mud tunnel to the trunk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally borer type insects will only plant their larva on a live tree. There are some insects that will attack dead trees, but they are not a concern, except for termites and carpenter ants. As long as the trunk is kept dry and inspected, they should not be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If desired, the trunk can be dried by making a charcoal bed 12-16 inches underneath it such that the bottom of the trunk is maintained around 180-degrees Farenheit and is rotated frequently to keep the heat even.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2016-11-15T18:30:54.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4487" CreationDate="2016-11-15T23:24:56.973" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you are looking for carbide insert lathe tools. Easy Wood Tools makes some, but there are cheaper versions available. You could clamp some kind of stop to the tool that butts up against the tool rest to keep you at a set distance from the work piece.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The carbide insert tools are used &quot;square&quot; to the work piece. You don't need to twist or angle it, so it makes it really easy for spindle turning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2921" LastActivityDate="2016-11-15T23:24:56.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4988" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4989" CreationDate="2016-11-16T04:57:53.297" Score="1" ViewCount="8146" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are the main ways of drying wood whether it be wood you milled into boards or just cut into turning blanks?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard of sealing the end grain and then just leaving the piece to dry on it's own but then I believe there are even different ways to each of those. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please share how you personally do it or how you have seen others do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2271" LastActivityDate="2022-10-17T12:48:54.100" Title="Drying Wood Methods" Tags="|wood|green-wood|wood-drying|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4988" CreationDate="2016-11-16T09:19:15.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have heard of sealing the end grain and then just leaving the piece to dry on it's own but then I believe there are even different ways to each of those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes that is the standard way of drying all wood, regardless of whether in board form or the type of piece that would be a turning blank. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for sealing the end grain is to &lt;em&gt;slow&lt;/em&gt; drying, since it is through the end grain that wood loses and takes on the most moisture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the goal is to get the wood to dry it seems counter-productive to do something that slows the process but unfortunately in most cases it is only by doing it slowly that you reduce the chances of various types of cracking defect and warpage. Force-drying as in a kiln is different since the wood is dried quickly but under controlled conditions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How to seal end grain&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you don't use a commercial product made for the purpose (e.g. Anchorseal) the best thing to use to seal end grain is melted wax. Any type of wax will do so no harm in going cheap. Most of the wax can be recovered though, scraped from the end grain, remelted and reused indefinitely so it won't work out too expensive if you use something like beeswax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is much help online on this in all the woodworking forums that says you can coat the end grain with anything, and almost inevitably the next words typed will be &quot;using latex paint&quot; (UK: household emulsion) but this is bad advice and needs to stop being repeated. Paint of this type is actually far too porous to provide a good seal. Is it better than nothing? Probably. Is it actually a good way to go though? No. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If doing it with molten wax isn't feasible or too much hassle and a product like Anchorseal too expensive the next best things to use are varnish or oil-based enamel paint, both of which form a good water barrier in a thick coating. Ideally you'd want to slop either one on heavily, and if you want to go to the trouble to apply more than one coat so much the better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You won't regret sealing end grain too heavily. You're sure to regret it if you seal it too lightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that with boards you usually (nearly always) dry them flat, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/636/what-does-stickering-wood-mean&quot;&gt;stickered&lt;/a&gt; but with one or two species that are prone to staining the convention is to dry them vertically, which if you're doing it yourself will usually mean leaning against a wall. With turning blanks as well as with sticks it's quite common to dry them upright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Speeding drying at home&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can sometimes get away with speeding up drying wood with smaller pieces. There is still the chance of checks, particularly with rounds or small log sections, but in general the smaller a piece of wood the less the risk. One of the best methods to do this at home on a small scale is using your microwave, but you may decide to buy a cheap second microwave for this purpose only if you do this regularly. Read more about that in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1367/can-i-use-a-conventional-oven-or-toaster-oven-as-something-similar-to-a-dry-kiln/1374#1374&quot;&gt;Can I use a conventional oven or toaster oven as something similar to a dry kiln?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you don't seal the end grain and then do this, for reasons that should be obvious :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-11-16T09:19:15.793" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4990" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4992" CreationDate="2016-11-16T12:44:20.457" Score="5" ViewCount="4209" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made a table of pine, it's natural and sanded and all that nice stuff. I've never finished a table, so I'm not sure what I should be using. My constraints are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should be completely transparent&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should be silky (as opposed to shiny - not sure what the exact term in English is)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shouldn't take a month to cure/dry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resistant to heat/wetness/stains as it's gonna be a dining table&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What type of product should I be using to satisfy all points?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2263" LastActivityDate="2016-11-16T18:31:13.687" Title="Finishing an indoors pine table" Tags="|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4990" CreationDate="2016-11-16T14:50:37.987" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would go with polyurethane. There is Gloss (shiny), semi-gloss (Some shine), and satin (little to none). It is transparent but does kinda 'tint' the wood. Like for pine it turns a little more yellow (I think is good color guess) but I like it. For some other woods like black walnut it turns more dark. It takes about 3 hours per coat to dry. It is resistant to stains and heat. For wetness go with oil based. Since oil and water do not mix it should not wear down real fast. There should not be cure time that I know of. And when doing this you will need to apply 3-4 coats (I recommend). When done applying the coats your going to need to re-sand lightly to get smooth results. Since it can be bumpy depending upon how it is applied. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2016-11-16T14:50:37.987" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4990" CreationDate="2016-11-16T18:31:13.687" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should be completely transparent&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All standard finishes are transparent, but some are not without a little colour, or &quot;water white&quot; as it's usually referred to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't mind that it imparts a noticeable yellow/amber tone to the wood (which will increase slowly over time) then an oil-based polyurethane is a good choice here. This is the finish you can use that is toughest and most waterproof, as well as easiest to apply, for those who don't have access to spray equipment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you'd prefer to keep the wood as close in colour to the way it is now then I'd go with a waterbased polyurethane finish. Waterbased polys are one of the classic water-white finishes and some are greatly improved over the versions available earlier one, when they were pretty &lt;em&gt;meh&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note though that pine itself will darken slightly and go more yellow naturally with exposure to light, so the colour of the table will slowly alter over time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should be silky (as opposed to shiny - not sure what the exact term in English is)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can say less glossy, or more matt (American: matte). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Semi-gloss, satin and matt/matte finishes are what you want as each of them is less than fully glossy. Sorry can't help with what each of those might be referred to in your language, even the direct translations of these words may not be of any help because the terminology is very varied*.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Shouldn't take a month to cure/dry&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both oil-based poly and waterbased polyurethane finishes take far longer than their drying time to fully cure. However that doesn't mean the table can't be used before then, just that the finish is not at maximum strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With oil-based polyurethane approximately a week to ten days after the last coat goes on the finish should be tough enough for light use, but baby it for the first month. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With waterbased polyurethane finishes as little as three or four days is enough to be able to use the surface, but it's still advisable to wait a week or longer before subjecting it to heavier use. With some versions it may take two full weeks for the finish to get as hard as it can get even if the drying time is less than a few hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above are generalisations as all products are different. As well as that this is dependent on the conditions, primarily the temperature and humidity (the warmer and drier it is the faster a finish will cure usually). On top of that is coat thickness — obviously the thicker you apply a finish the more slowly it will dry and subsequently cure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Resistant to heat/wetness/stains as it's gonna be a dining table&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good versions of both oil-based polyurethane varnish and waterbased polyurethane finish will provide the level of protection you're seeking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Important to be aware that the total amount of any finish that you apply to the surface determines how resistant it ends up, most noticeably to scuffs/scratches and water penetration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So even a very good version of poly won't provide high levels of protection if you only wipe on a few thin layers, but will give the level of protection that it's advertised to provide with three or more full-strength coats. I think personally that it is nearly always worth applying &lt;em&gt;at least&lt;/em&gt; four coats for a dining table or similar surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*How shiny or not shiny a specific product is unfortunately varies because there is no standardisation across the industry. So regrettably you cannot assume that one company's version of Satin Polyurethane will give the same level of dullness as that of a competitor's product which you may have seen pictures of online. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some cases there is a wide disparity, with one company's satin being close to gloss and another's being much more matt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-11-16T18:31:13.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4993" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4994" CreationDate="2016-11-16T20:03:12.547" Score="4" ViewCount="881" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a end-table topper out of 1 3/8&quot; butcher block for over the top of a subwoofer.  I posted a question about how to route out the center of a board.  It was determined that although it is possible to route out the interior of the massive board, attaching an edge board would be the path of least resistance to create the end table top.     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the scope of my prior question, I decided to open a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is the standard practice of attaching the edge board?  Which might be the most cohesive with butcher block?  Would glue or nails or both be better?  If nails and/or glue, what kinds?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aSEZG.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aSEZG.png&quot; alt=&quot;edge board attachment&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2925" LastActivityDate="2016-11-16T21:07:38.360" Title="Best method to attach an edge board to an end-table top board" Tags="|tabletop|table-making|adhesives|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4993" CreationDate="2016-11-16T21:07:38.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would create an apron frame attached to the bottom of the butcher block. This way you can maintain the solid butcher block look, and it will greatly simplify the construction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Offsetting the apron frame prevents the difficulty of having to line up with the top, as well as opening up the possibility of using a different material altogether. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are able to, mitering the corners will provide the best look overall. From here you could simply glue and nail these pieces to the top.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jkYpQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jkYpQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastActivityDate="2016-11-16T21:07:38.360" CommentCount="18" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4995" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-17T15:14:15.573" Score="2" ViewCount="838" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've started a DIY speaker project based on some components from PureAudioProjects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, I have fabricated modular speaker baffles from Baltic Birch (they attach to a frame, albeit a bit different from that depicted in the photos below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope to finish the Baltic Birch to replicate, as much as possible, the kind of glossy lacquer like finishes in the attached images.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V10jK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V10jK.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point I have Baltic Birch, un-edged. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the constraint of living in a New York apartment.  While I have space to work and assemble things, I don't have a place to use spay equipment.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll need to apply primer and finishes by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I get as close to the desired finish as possible?&#xA;If I sand the plywoods edges, can I get away without edging the baffles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions on sanding process (edges and faces) appreciated.  This post, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2596/will-painting-the-edges-of-plywood-hide-the-layers?rq=1&quot;&gt;Will painting the edges of plywood hide the layers?&lt;/a&gt;, probably answers the edge question, but I'd think Baltic Birch makes a more forgiving edge then typical plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I generally understand the process of priming, sanding, and painting; but specific recommendations for what: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;grit of sand paper to use at what stage of the process as well as&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;specific primers and paint and application suggestions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps a satin finish would prove more forgiving, so I'll happily consider that.  Again, any guidance welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;re:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Your question has been identified as a possible duplicate of another&#xA;  question. If the answers there do not address your problem, please&#xA;  edit to explain in detail the parts of your question that are unique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a number of constraints affecting the materials with which I have to work and where I have to work (all discussed in the original post) that the suggested answer does not address.  I hope to get answers or guidance that help me achieve a result as close as possible to the desired result (see images) with what and where I have to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, the suggested &quot;possible duplicate&quot; certainly helps (and is really interesting!), it just doesn't fully answer the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2926" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-11-17T20:24:32.503" Title="Painting &amp; finishing Baltic Birch" Tags="|plywood|paint|surface-preparation|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="9" ClosedDate="2016-11-18T13:23:30.907" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4996" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-18T00:28:16.177" Score="5" ViewCount="4533" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having someone stain brand new pine steps. He prepped and sanded but the stain absorbed unevenly and almost not at all in certain places. It's Duraseal quick coat (GREY color).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The guy staining said that another coat would not make it absorb any better. Thus, he has not applied what I would consider to be a final coat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can we apply a grey gel stain to this coat to make it darker or absorb better. &#xA;Labour was costly -- Is there a cheaper alternative?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2930" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2018-10-29T21:22:25.727" LastActivityDate="2018-10-29T21:22:25.727" Title="How do I fix blotchy grey stain that was not absorbed evenly into pine?" Tags="|staining|pine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4996" CreationDate="2016-11-18T02:22:07.627" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pine is a wood that is notorious for not absorbing stain evenly. To begin with the lighter and darker portions of the grain have very different absorbencies (the existing dark parts of the grain are not very absorbent while the lighter parts are much more absorbent). In addition pine is one of a handful of woods that are unfortunately very prone to an effect called blotching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blotching is when wood absorbs stain more in some areas than in others leading to darker spots randomly distributed across the wood. It is so random that sometimes it occurs heavily on one part of a single board and not elsewhere on the same board, leading to extremely uneven results in some cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's for the above reasons that it is now often advised to colour pine not with regular stains but with &quot;gel stain&quot;. The word stain in the name is a misnomer as actually these products are not stain in the conventional meaning of the word but instead are coloured varnishes. As they coat the wood instead of soaking into the surface as with true stains they avoid the issues of pine's uneven absorbency, but they do tend to mask the grain of the wood to one degree or another depending on the colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can we apply a grey gel stain to this coat to make it darker or absorb better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes you can apply gel stain now on top of whatever stain was used previously. Without pictures we can't know what you were going for exactly and quite how the wood looks now but I think there's a good chance it will help get you closer to the results you were hoping for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because you're going for grey and a grey gel stain will obscure the grain of the pine to some extent you may have gotten an effect similar to what you wanted using thinned grey paint:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kdQkB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kdQkB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Grey wash &amp;#39;stain&amp;#39;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homemade-modern.com/ep03-wood-iron-table/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;HomeMade Modern&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the paint had dried it would then have been protected with a few coats of floor-grade varnish (a waterbased type) for durability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-11-18T02:22:07.627" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4998" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5002" CreationDate="2016-11-18T18:58:04.490" Score="4" ViewCount="262" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a homemade lathe with a drill.  I have previously done some wood carving and looking to get into some lathe / turning work.  I have a few chisels from some wood carving and wondering what the difference is and what type of tools I could use for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2936" LastActivityDate="2017-07-25T10:55:52.313" Title="Recommended tools for a lathe" Tags="|turning|chisel|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4999" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5000" CreationDate="2016-11-18T21:06:23.807" Score="7" ViewCount="7608" Body="&lt;p&gt;I kind of assume that dadoes, grooves, rabbets / rebates should be no deeper than half the thickness of the material. So, in 3/4&quot; stock, dadoes should be no deeper than 3/8&quot;. Anything deeper would compromise the integrity of the wood. Is that correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, going the other way, is there a minimum depth of a dado before it's either not adding any strength, or not assisting with alignment? Maybe 1/8&quot; or 1/16&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, is there an optimum depth of dadoes? In some of the youtube videos I've seen, it seems that 1/4&quot; dadoes are fairly common in 3/4&quot; material. Is that because it gives the optimum strength, or is just easier / faster to cut, or something else? Does it depend on the thicknesses of the pieces being joined?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastActivityDate="2016-11-18T23:31:14.723" Title="What are the minimum, maximum, and optimal depths for dadoes, grooves, and rabbets?" Tags="|joinery|dado|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4999" CreationDate="2016-11-18T23:31:14.723" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I kind of assume that dadoes, grooves, rabbets / rebates should be no deeper than half the thickness of the material. So, in 3/4&quot; stock, dadoes should be no deeper than 3/8&quot;. Anything deeper would compromise the integrity of the wood. Is that correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Broadly speaking yes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In just about any wood, with any joint, if you end up removing more wood than remains you're obviously undermining the strength of the material. So with a dado (UK: housing joint) going deeper than half way should be avoided. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;And, going the other way, is there a minimum depth of a dado before it's either not adding any strength, or not assisting with alignment? Maybe 1/8&quot; or 1/16&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is less clear cut I feel because so much depends on the inherent strength of the material. While a 1/8&quot; (3mm) dado wouldn't be particularly strong in any wood in stronger hardwoods it could be more than sufficient, while in something like pine the same joint depth would probably represent a noticeable weak point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The expected load and the outright thickness of the material obviously tie in here as well. In a small campaign case in pine 1/16&quot; dados may be appropriate and provide suitable strength, but obviously not for a pine shelf in a sizeable bookcase or cupboard where you want to give the ends of the boards much more support. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose one way of looking at it is if there's no good reason to do a shallow dado then don't. Many joints in woodwork are actually stronger than strictly necessary, but erring on the side of greater strength is rarely a bad thing. And as it may be no more or less effort to create a weaker version then why do it anyway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In some of the youtube videos I've seen, it seems that 1/4&quot; dadoes are fairly common in 3/4&quot; material. Is that because it gives the optimum strength, or is just easier / faster to cut, or something else? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect some of this will come down to habit or ease of setup rather than being carefully considered and done with best strength in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it is actually quite a common rule of thumb to have a joint be 1/3 the thickness of the material, although that's by no means set in stone and variation either way is possible and acceptable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-11-18T23:31:14.723" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4998" CreationDate="2016-11-18T23:38:26.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use chisels and other tools that were not specifically made for turning but you shouldn't expect their edges to hold up for very long. Even with commercial turning tools made from steel frequent sharpening is the norm, so with anything less robust than this you're going to be sharpening &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; so be prepared ahead of time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As much as the hardness of the wood being turned the speed of rotation and the size of the piece are factors — remember that for any given RPM the edge of a larger piece of wood is moving faster than a smaller piece of wood, so it becomes more abrasive and there is greater chance it can fracture or crack the cutting edge of a tool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some related info in a couple of previous Q&amp;amp;As:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4324/can-i-use-sculptor-chisels-with-a-lathe/4330?s=3|0.3842#4330&quot;&gt;Can I use sculptor chisels with a lathe?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2617/what-should-one-consider-when-purchasing-an-intro-turning-chisel-set/2619?s=2|1.9627#2619&quot;&gt;What should one consider when purchasing an intro turning chisel set?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3374/how-can-i-tell-if-wood-turning-lathe-chisels-are-sharp/3377?s=1|2.0486#3377&quot;&gt;How can I tell if wood turning (lathe) chisels are sharp?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-11-18T23:38:26.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4998" CreationDate="2016-11-18T23:47:44.027" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;While for a some turning work you probably could get away using some chisels as I have seen it done but I highly recommend you invest in a semi-decent set of tools just to get yourself started out (pre-assembled set or your own custom set if you buy the tools individually).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main difference in the types of tools are the bevels and grinds on the tool as well as the metal type and hardening as that determines how well the tools will hold an edge and how/how often they will be need to be sharpened (I assume you have some knowledge of this is you have done carving before?). In addition the metal quality is important due to the heat generated from the rpm of the wood as it passes over the metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The type of tools you are going to want is going to vary some depending on what you are turning (Spindle, bowls, pens, etc) but here is a list of tools I would recommend you get to start out. These tools should allow you to do most turning just it may be more difficult to make certain cuts or do certain tasks dependent on what you choose to turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Tool List&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Parting Tool - Used for, well parting a piece when you finish it as well as making tenons and precise cuts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roughing Gouge - Used for making rough cuts and taking lots of wood off rapidly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Skew Chisel - Used for making a smoother cut but also gives you the capability to do so in a more controlled tighter fashion.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spindle Gouge - Same idea as a roughing gouge just a smaller more controlled area.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Round Nose Scraper - Used to again make a smoother cut but in rounded parts of the wood (you could get a square end scraper but I would recommend the&#xA;round nose just based on my own preference).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2271" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2016-11-18T23:47:44.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5004" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5005" CreationDate="2016-11-20T18:01:44.487" Score="5" ViewCount="1864" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to try soaking wooden spoons and such (things which will come into prolonged contact with hot food) in tung oil. My local supplier says it is &lt;strong&gt;pure, raw and cold pressed&lt;/strong&gt; and does not contain any chemical additives. They say it will take &lt;strong&gt;3 weeks&lt;/strong&gt; to dry, but I would not mind waiting some more, maybe &lt;strong&gt;months&lt;/strong&gt; before using the kitchen utensils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this get me food safe wooden utensils or does tung oil stay harmful even if fully cured? (Is it enough to let it cure for a month or so?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it a good idea to add a small amount of &lt;strong&gt;orange oil&lt;/strong&gt; (food safety)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;meta: Is this the wrong stack community? pro wood workers should know about the chemical properties of oil, right? :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2941" LastActivityDate="2016-11-21T10:59:38.853" Title="Is (pure raw cold-pressed) tung oil food-safe (for cooking utensils)?" Tags="|oiling|tung-oil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5004" CreationDate="2016-11-20T19:41:12.223" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is (pure raw cold-pressed) tung oil food-safe (for cooking utensils)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost certainly yes. Just to mention, almost any oil of vegetable origin would be as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a small chance of individual sensitivity to the tung oil, as there is with so many things, but in general tung oil is not something that people react negatively to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I want to try soaking wooden spoons and such (things which will come into prolonged contact with hot food) in tung oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are seeking to make the utensils waterproof I'm afraid you won't be happy with the results of your experiment, but I encourage you to try it anyway and see the results first hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No oil used in wood finishing actually provides a really good waterproof finish. Pre-polymerised tung oil may come the closest, but oil finishes of all types (using oil only, not a blended finish with resins in it) are inherently water-permeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Partly this is because oil doesn't penetrate that deeply into wood except into exposed end grain so there's actually very little of it left in/on the wood surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a method to greatly increase the oil uptake of wood in a reasonable timeframe, one used to produce oil-soaked wooden bearings — in short you deep fry the wood, displacing water in the wood's structure with oil. But this leaves the wood permanently oily which I don't think would be a desirable outcome here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it a good idea to add a small amount of orange oil (food safety)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think there's any benefit to using that but this is something you'll have to make your own mind up about after reading up on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; there is a problem in that &quot;orange oil&quot; will often not be what you'd assume from the name. Obviously the expectation is that it's oil extracted from oranges but there are products with that on the label (ditto &quot;lemon oil&quot;) which are not that at all, but instead a type of finish or wood treatment (or furniture polish!) with a citrus smell. Some of them would absolutely not be suitable for application to something intended for direct food contact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No finish is &lt;em&gt;necessary&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Gotta add this FYI. Wooden utensils, just as with serving boards and most cutting boards, don't need to be finished in any way to work well in their intended roles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A long while back it was the norm not to finish things like this and while it's still done today in some parts of the world in the West the idea has largely been forgotten about, or pushed aside in favour of one or another finish... but a great deal of this is about &lt;em&gt;making things look better&lt;/em&gt;. While there's nothing wrong with that as a goal it tends to go hand in hand with an idea that the wood needs to be finished, but very often the treatment does nothing to improve the serviceability of a food-prep item and might even negatively affect one or more attributes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-11-20T19:41:12.223" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5004" CreationDate="2016-11-21T10:59:38.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Much unlike linseed oil, tung oil &lt;strong&gt;is poisonous&lt;/strong&gt;, containing terpene esters. That does however not necessarily mean that it isn't safe to use anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would surely not drink it, and you should avoid direct skin contact while it's liquid. Irritations are not uncommon, and they are not necessarily of allergic nature, but also due to the poisonous effects. Rubber gloves to the rescue.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I would probably not want a child to suck on a wooden spoon for a prolonged time either, simply because you never know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But other than that, I believe that despite being poisonous, it is reasonably safe. The amount of toxin that you are likely to take up, even from a wooden spoon, should be very small once the oil has cured, this should be perfectly tolerable without ill effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people recommend orange oil under the conception of penetration geting better (also, terpentine is sometimes used). I am not convinced this is the case at all. However, tung oil is not entirely odorless, and orange oil may mask this, so there is a little value in doing that.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;However, do note that adding orange oil means adding a common allergen, which again works against &quot;safety&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="135" LastActivityDate="2016-11-21T10:59:38.853" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5007" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-21T13:36:40.573" Score="8" ViewCount="216" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm fairly new to using a hand plane and I've run into situation that seemed funny at first, but is getting a little more irritating. For whatever reason, the nice, long curly shavings I'm taking have developed an affinity for the tool. So, instead of dropping on the floor or in the trash bin when I remove them from the plane, they'll travel up to a foot to lodge right back on the tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This didn't always happen. I started noticing it more after I'd built my first shooting board. I'd used a small amount of wax on the sole of the plane and on the board itself to lessen friction. I don't know if the setup of the shooting board contributed to the static problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way I could &quot;ground&quot;/discharge the plane occasionally when I notice this happening? I've read suggestions for preventing a charge buildup on the body (rubber shoes, etc.) but not sure how to prevent the tool from attracting the shavings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FOLLOWUP INFORMATION&#xA;I'm in a very dry climate (Arizona) but thinking about it later, the problem occurred during a period where the humidity was higher. The problem has since disappeared. I'm planing a lot of pine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd built the shooting board with plywood, except for the 90-degree fence which is oak.  It took me a fair amount of work to get the oak end grain flush with the base on setup, so maybe that amount of planing was a factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this is mostly an inconsequential question (but you'll notice if it happens to you!), and I appreciate the patience of responders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="853" LastEditorUserId="853" LastEditDate="2016-11-22T01:17:11.250" LastActivityDate="2016-11-26T14:52:34.547" Title="Static Electricity While Using a Hand Plane" Tags="|hand-planing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5008" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5009" CreationDate="2016-11-21T14:04:32.170" Score="8" ViewCount="13087" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm own a Black&amp;amp;Decker orbital sander (&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B004T4W5U6&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;can be found here&lt;/a&gt;, using hook and loop papers), which is generally a good tool except for the fact that the sanding papers fall off before their sand becomes unusable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried using different paper brands, but same result - paper usually comes off way before it becomes not-sandy. Anything I'm missing? Or do I need a better sander/papers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2263" LastEditorUserId="2263" LastEditDate="2016-11-21T14:24:58.010" LastActivityDate="2022-01-02T01:14:21.300" Title="Orbital sander papers coming off" Tags="|power-tools|sanding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5008" CreationDate="2016-11-21T15:34:52.000" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Be sure to check whether the hooks (part of the hook-and-loop) on the backing pad are intact (not melted) and not clogged, all the way out to the edge of the pad. Usually the hooks around the edge become damaged first. If this is the case, you will need to replace the backing pad or the sander. It looks like replacement parts for your model are readily available online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find that you are regularly burning up the hooks on your sander's pad, try turning down the speed if your sander has a speed control.  I burned through 2 or 3 sanding pad attachments for my oscillating tool before realizing this.  Also try connecting a vacuum or dust extractor to the sander to help get more airflow for cooling, as well as helping to prevent the paper from becoming clogged and overheating.  Or, as Jacob Edmund suggested in a comment on your original question, you may be able to replace the backing pad with a smooth one designed for use with adhesive-backed sandpaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2016-11-22T03:20:40.370" LastActivityDate="2016-11-22T03:20:40.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5008" CreationDate="2016-11-21T17:21:40.417" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you need to replace the pad on your sander.  This is the &quot;hook&quot; part of the hook and loop system.  This is a typical point of failure for orbital sanders, so it should be fairly easy to find one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find you are going through them frequently (in addition to the steps in Rob's answer) you should consider using a &quot;pad protector&quot;.  This is just a two-sided sheet with &quot;hooks&quot; on one side and &quot;loops&quot; on the other.  They are made for mesh sandpaper where the hooks are destroyed under normal use by poking through the mesh and contacting the workpiece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2016-11-21T17:52:24.600" LastActivityDate="2016-11-21T17:52:24.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5007" CreationDate="2016-11-21T19:40:15.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never heard of this before, but in theory what you need to do is create a conductive path from your plane to a ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would do is wear a grounding footstrap so that your body is grounded, then make sure to have regular skin-to-plane body contact. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this doesn't work then I might consider putting a ring terminal onto the plane, perhaps using the screw that holds the handle in place, then running a bare wire from that along the tote so that you have a constant skin-to-plane connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't work either, then you could run a wire from the ring terminal to a grounding rod or the ground prong of a household outlet, but that seems like overkill to me personally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2016-11-21T19:40:15.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4940" CreationDate="2016-11-23T08:30:20.297" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't obsess about the angle, work at sharpening what you have at the moment to a consistent grind and has no multiple facets. Consistency is the key and the wolverine type jigs are great for that. Cap,n Eddie Castalin has lots of good videos and shows how to make in this video &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5i9RDnJHz9g&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5i9RDnJHz9g&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Don't mark on the jig for each tool because as the are sharpened and get shorter that will change the angle, better to make a story stick for each tool if using the wolverine's cradle. The fingernail grind jig is set to 50mm for everything. Most factory grinds are not good and will need reshaping but that can come a bit later when you can sharpen consistently &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can have the same size gouge with three different grinds depending where about's in the bowl you are cutting. Different woods may also require different angles depending on the wood and density. Brian Havens explains in this video on the skew &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yhuEVVSkDtE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yhuEVVSkDtE&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Both of these guys have very good videos with lots to learn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2866" LastActivityDate="2016-11-23T08:30:20.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4988" CreationDate="2016-11-24T08:11:55.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used dehumidifiers to dry a load of reclaimed wood that was milled to use as trim in a home. It was at 20% moisture content (MC) so I made a frame of 2X material after I set a layer of 6 mil poly on the floor large enough to wrap the whole pile after I built the frame to support the plastic. The frame needed to be high enough to hold 2 dehumidifiers that sat on top of the pile and have it hold the plastic high enough to clear the dehumidifiers. This topped out at about 5' tall. It made it easy as well to enter the sealed area to empty the containers twice a day. About a gallon of water each time. After 2 weeks the material was dry enough to use. As a note the wood was stickered between each level of boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2016-11-24T08:11:55.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5015" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5016" CreationDate="2016-11-24T13:53:56.390" Score="4" ViewCount="5727" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am relatively new to woodworking. I am in the process of laminating plywood (which will be used as a tabletop and also to hide the actual support for the table). I have googled alot and found different answers. Some are not even for plywood.My question is do I need to laminate both sides? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cost and time will be high if I do laminate.. Some parts of the plywood will be sealed to the wall so that will be useless to laminate. Can I get away with laminating one side and just coating the other side with varnish or something else (please recommend me).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The humidity here is almost constant, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aF2wZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aF2wZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2951" LastActivityDate="2022-01-10T19:15:39.713" Title="Do I need to laminate both sides of plywood or can I coat one side and laminate the other" Tags="|plywood|laminating|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5015" CreationDate="2016-11-24T16:47:25.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Part of the answer depends upon the size of the piece, its thickness, and possibly the number of layers in the panel.  I do not know any hard and fast rules for making a determination but here are some considerations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The grain in each layer is set perpendicular so that strength in the panel resists the tendency of adjacent layers to curl as moisture and temperature generate distorting stresses.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plywood panels have odd number of layers so that the opposing forces are balanced helping the panel keep a flat profile.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the plywood panel is small (&amp;lt;18&quot; width and depth) and the panel is thicker (3/4&quot;) adding a thin veneer layer on one side only will probably work. As the dimensions increase or the thickness decreases the risk of distortion increases. Of course, if the surface applied on the face is thicker, it will generate more stress in the panel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Painting one side will not prevent moisture penetration and curling.  Moisture is tenacious and will find a  way in generating stress in the panel. The edges of the panel will be especially vulnerable to admitting moisture.  However, the steady humidity in your chart is a good thing and will help.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are other panel materials such as MDF or particle boards which can be used as a substrate that are not subject to the same stresses that could be used.  For instance, kitchen countertops are only laminated on one side (with a waterproof membrane no less) and maintain a flat profile for long periods. despite humid conditions. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a design  reason such as maintaining a specified thickness for only veneering one side, then it is worth a shot, otherwise I would recommend surfacing both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-11-24T16:47:25.867" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5017" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5018" CreationDate="2016-11-24T17:52:55.893" Score="5" ViewCount="1288" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a slab bench I want to fit into a nook like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hMu8c.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hMu8c.png&quot; alt=&quot;Nook&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, none of the walls are square, and each wall is built up as it approaches the corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any good tricks to scribing a single slab to fit a space like this, given that I can't put it into place to directly scribe any of the walls without cutting it down to leave a gap when finished?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best I've come up with is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set a square line between the corners.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place scrap wood against the squared line, then scribe Left and Right walls onto the scraps.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trace the Left and Right scribes onto a piece of plywood wide enough to span the Back.  Cut Left and Right ends of the plywood along scribed lines.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now place the plywood against Back wall, and scribe Back contour onto it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trace the scribed lines from all three edges of this full-width scrap plywood onto the slab.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastActivityDate="2016-11-24T22:39:56.820" Title="How can I scribe a slab into a nook with three walls?" Tags="|measurement|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5017" CreationDate="2016-11-24T19:01:52.363" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I wrote an answer some time ago that addresses this, but I cannot find the link...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simplest way I know to get the correct geometry is to do what cabinet shops do to make and install countertops.  Get some long lattice strips approx 1/4&quot; x 2&quot; (+/-).  Create a temporary platform at the elevation you want to fit the slab to and arrange the strips along the perimeter to create a template.  Hot glue them together along with a diagonal between opposite corners to insure that your template is rigid.  If there are indentations along the three wall surfaces, you can scribe a cardboard sheet along each edge to match the deviations and then glue it to  the lattice strips.  And that's your perfect template for the opening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-11-24T19:01:52.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5017" CreationDate="2016-11-24T22:39:56.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would probably try to fit a template made of cardboard.  Once that fits then transfer the size to the slab.  Take a couple pieces of cardboard, lay them in the space and tape it them together.  Trim to exact fit at the height where you're going to place the slab.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the walls are off-square you could get into a tricky situation when having to place the slab.  If the opening is narrower than the back, you won't be able to slide it in from the front, and the thickness of the slab would prevent you from angling it and lowering it in.  So it could be pretty important to figure out how you would place the slab, and this might dictate that it needs to be two or more pieces.  Attempting to fit the template in will tell you if you're in trouble (check if you can just slide it in from the front, keeping it horizontal)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also deviate from the single slab concept and put a 1-2&quot; accent piece in the middle, if it's impossible to slide in horizontally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2016-11-24T22:39:56.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5008" CreationDate="2016-11-25T03:13:37.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need to use different paper or replace the bottom pad with a smooth one for adhesives. You just need a replacement pad. A search for &quot;Black &amp;amp; Decker 5&quot; replacement pad&quot; will show you what you need. You can buy them at hardware stores that carry Black &amp;amp; Decker or online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at the bottom of your sander you will see the 8 dust holes but you will also see a few holes that to down to screws. You can unscrew them and remove the bottom pad and screw the new one on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can avoid damaging your new one in many ways, many said already, including minimizing heat and pressure. But the most important thing to do is &lt;strong&gt;align the dust holes on the pad with the holes on the paper&lt;/strong&gt;. The downside of this is you need to get sandpaper that has holes that align, probably brand specific. But anytime you leave a hole on the paper over the pad's hooks, you will be sanding down those hooks as if there was no paper on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastActivityDate="2016-11-25T03:13:37.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5015" CreationDate="2016-11-25T14:40:46.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have said, &quot;it depends&quot;.  On the other hand, plywood is much more stable than solid wood, so a thin veneer on the top only will probably be OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that it is not necessary to use the same wood for the top and bottom veneer.  Traditional veneered work used expensive high quality veneers (for example, walnut burr), for the outside and a much cheaper &quot;backing veneer&quot; on the inside.  That kept the forces balanced, without having to waste money on expensive veneers that wouldn't be seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1646" LastActivityDate="2016-11-25T14:40:46.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4440" CreationDate="2016-11-25T14:51:10.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just like in the west, paint or any other locally available material can be used to seal out moisture. Sealing end grain with a torch is another way moisture was sealed, but I don't know if it was only done with finished pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, (as someone who lives in a cool, moist climate), sealing the ends isn't &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; necessary when air drying, provided you have the wood appropriately stacked and in a shady spot. Air drying wood in Japanese carpentry is essentially the same as its done in the west.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In most traditional Japanese structures, paints, vanishes, or other finishes are seldom used, except for some decorative purposes in temples, or occasionally to prevent moisture penetration on, for example, deam ends. Coal tar or creosote may be applied to the base of posts or other footings to resist water damage. One method of finishing sometimes used is scorching with a torch of logs or posts. This seals off the cells of a porous grain and also darkens and highlights the grain pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;em&gt;Japanese Woodworking: A Handbook of Japanese Tool Use &amp;amp; Woodworking Techniques&lt;/em&gt; by Hideo Sato (Translation: Koichi Paul Nii)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2739" LastActivityDate="2016-11-25T14:51:10.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5025" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-26T16:06:06.007" Score="1" ViewCount="1875" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a puzzle-keeper as a Christmas gift and have a reasonable design which includes a frame and several insets of large, flat sheets to hold the puzzle pieces, topped with a &quot;lid&quot;. While I'm not going necessarily going for a high-end fine woodworking or an exotic look, I'd like to use something reasonably decent for the flat sheets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, most of the thinner sheet stock is not flat - particularly the plywoods. Of course, these are sheets from a home improvement store and not a lumber yard that may have better products. The maximum size I'd need is about 30x22&quot;. At this time I am not planning to capture the sheet in a frame, in order to save some weight and keep the overall frame size smaller. That option is on the table if necessary though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm considering baltic birch if I can get it to lay flat in the frame at that size, but I'm not opposed to a masonite sheet if I have to. I'm interested in hearing about opinions and experience in materials choices for this application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2962" LastActivityDate="2016-11-26T19:57:47.477" Title="Thin, Flat Sheet - Plywood, Masonite, or MDF?" Tags="|design|plywood|wood-selection|mdf|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5025" CreationDate="2016-11-26T17:40:25.203" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think at that size masonite/ply would be fine if on a frame with an internal brace if needed. You could rebate the masonite into the frame to hide the edge if you wanted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2866" LastEditorUserId="2866" LastEditDate="2016-11-26T17:52:50.683" LastActivityDate="2016-11-26T17:52:50.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5025" CreationDate="2016-11-26T19:57:47.477" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In my experience, most of the thinner sheet stock is not flat - particularly the plywoods. Of course, these are sheets from a home improvement store and not a lumber yard that may have better products. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes this is very dependent on the quality of the plywood or other sheet goods. Good plywood is much more likely to leave the factory dead flat and stable compared to the cheaper stuff typically stocked in a big-box store, but in addition they are infamous for their indifferent storage of wood and wood products, virtually guaranteeing that you won't get whatever it is as flat as it could be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm considering baltic birch if I can get it to lay flat in the frame at that size, but I'm not opposed to a masonite sheet if I have to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Point to remember is that masonite should actually be Masonite with a capital M. Masonite is a brand name that has become semi-synonymous with hardboard (in the US at least) but it's important to know whether you're buying a Masonite product (generally good to excellent quality) or just generic &quot;masonite&quot;, which could be pretty indifferent or outright poor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway that aside, if you can find 1/4&quot; hardboard (specifically S2S tempered hardboard) then I think you'd be happy with its flatness and stability, IF it was stored properly by whoever is selling it. In my experience tempered hardboard is much more likely to be flat than plywoods of the same thickness in roughly the same price bracket, but of course only if during storage it was kept dead flat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Less desirable IMO but also an option would be MDF. MDF is as the name says a medium-density board so it's not as strong as hardboard (a type of HDF) but it is lighter, which may be desirable here. And well-made MDF is decent stuff, despite how often the product is derided in woodworking forums. This is unfortunately because there is a lot of crappy MDF being sold these days, but like anything a crappy example of something doesn't speak to the quality of the product overall. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also see my closing comment &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3373/how-to-flatten-1-8-baltic-birch-plywood-for-laser-cutting/3375#3375&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; about the mixed quality of Baltic birch plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-11-26T19:57:47.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5028" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-26T22:22:07.503" Score="1" ViewCount="1586" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making shelves from OSB. I have find in Internet that it is possible to apply some coating so that OSB will be shining and smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you please suggest some type of coating/stain/finish (can't really understand difference between them) that will fill rough surface of OSB?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2963" LastEditorUserId="2264" LastEditDate="2016-11-26T23:05:15.680" LastActivityDate="2016-11-27T02:02:46.203" Title="Suggestions for OSB coating" Tags="|finishing|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5028" CreationDate="2016-11-27T02:02:46.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, you could coat it in a &quot;bar top epoxy&quot;, which is an epoxy resin that flows out to a nice degree of flatness. That's a pricey option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the better question is, why would you save a couple of bucks on osb (which is typically not thick enough to be good shelf material... &lt;em&gt;I'll correct my answer if you tell me that you're using 1&quot; or thicker stock, or that you've designed wooden stiffeners into the shelf, or that your shelves have a really short span&lt;/em&gt;) when you could buy some decent plywood and have fewer issues from the outset?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're stuck on osb and don't want to splash out for the epoxy, a few coats of varnish would at least keep the wood fibers down. It still wouldn't &quot;fill the rough surface&quot; as your question requested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2016-11-27T02:02:46.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5031" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-27T17:59:23.423" Score="13" ViewCount="22462" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a complete amateur trying to turn an old 14 wide x 22 long single car garage into a wood shop.  Nobody in my immediate family or friends does any serious woodworking, but I do have some family members/friends who have been in other trades for decades and are pretty handy, so I'm learning by researching and getting advice from them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lately I've been finding myself needing to cut full 4' x 8' plywood panels lengthwise down the middle for shelves or other things.  I'm the type that usually likes to research myself silly to find the best possible solution before committing to something.  In this case, it seemed to me that the answers online were pointing to a &lt;strong&gt;panel saw&lt;/strong&gt;, though that may just be because I started from the perspective of &quot;What do places like Home Depot do?&quot; And I remembered they have large panel saws for things like this, and it seemed fitting since the word &quot;panel&quot; is in the name, it's obviously for cutting panels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a serious budget, so I'm trying to avoid spending 1k+ or even more on a pre-made aluminum frame panel saw.  I looked around and saw that some folks have in fact built their own, such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cu5UU10F7NQ&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this youtube video&lt;/a&gt;, or there are apparently kits you can buy such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TToT9hfPmXg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qt4tqaa4lTg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.  Though upon suggesting the idea of building a panel saw for this purpose, I was met with pretty strong resistance from 2 people, who both suggested their own solutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Options&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1) Table Saw&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9qlnh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9qlnh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One family friend suggested that a panel saw is too large and unwieldy, requiring 16 feet to push a panel fully through, or otherwise too difficult/a hassle to make, and I should instead use my existing 4x8 workbench, modify it to the height of a table saw he could lend, and buy some infeed rollers and push a full 4x8 panel through a table saw, outfeeding onto my workbench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He at first convinced me, but upon further reading and thinking I realized some points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Safety&lt;/strong&gt; - On many woodworking sites/forums, I see many members claim that attempting to maneuver a 4x8 panel through a table saw could be pretty dangerous, and that table saws are best for smaller boards/panels.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Practicality&lt;/strong&gt; - It seems to me that this method would still require at least 16 linear feet of space, probably realistically more like 18-20, but would be even more unwieldy than a panel saw since the board would be horizontal rather than vertical. Additionally, this solution almost certainly &lt;strong&gt;would not work&lt;/strong&gt; for also cutting an 8 ft piece width wise, so I'd ultimately have to use 2 different solutions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Quality&lt;/strong&gt; - I have never used a table saw once in my life, but I imagine it might be hard to hold and maintain a 4x8 panel steady and straight against a fence, so I don't imagine getting high quality cuts perfecty every time would be easy with this method.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2) Circular Saw&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vjeGr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vjeGr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my current method. Another family member of mine essentially suggested I should continue with my current solution, which is propping up the plywood sheet above my workbench with 2x4, clamping down, setting up a guide board, and using a circular saw along the length, though he suggested I should lower my workbench height to make this easier. (Currently, my workbench height is approx 40 inches.  Would lowering to 36 really make this much easier?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thoughts on this were:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Safety&lt;/strong&gt; - Seems fairly safe, as long as boards are securely clamped, and the saw is handled securely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Practicality&lt;/strong&gt; - Practical in that it fits into the footprint of my workbench, but the entire reason I'm searching for another solution is because in my opinion, it's a pain to prop up a plywood sheet and clamp it down, tack on a guide board, and then struggle to securely hold a circular saw halfway across (2 ft) while cutting down the middle of the panel. Additionally, in cases where I need to first cut along the length, and then go back and cut across the width, I have to adjust and turn the 2x4 tracks underneath and the guide board every time.  Since I used 8ft board lengthwise, the boards are too long going the other way so I have to swap them out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Quality&lt;/strong&gt; - Quality seems to be good, as long the guide is setup properly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3) Panel Saw&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w55WG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w55WG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what places like Home Depot have setup for customers to use.  Assuming I can build a safe, reliable panel saw for fairly cheap, it seemed to me this would be the best option. &lt;strong&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt; - I do not count having to put in time and effort to build a panel saw as a negative of this option, because in fact I'm trying to build as many projects as I can, though I would count expense as a negative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Safety&lt;/strong&gt; - If the panel saw is sturdy, including the supports, the saw carriage, and the saw carriage rods, then it seemed to me this would be the &lt;strong&gt;safest&lt;/strong&gt; of the 3 options.  The saw is fixed rigid, can only move in 1 axis, and is always facing away from the operator.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Practicality&lt;/strong&gt; - Very easy to use.  Just plop in the panel, adjust to position, and slide panel through saw (or saw across panel).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Quality&lt;/strong&gt; - Again, the saw is rigid, and if the bottom track support for the panel is perfectly inline with the blade, then the quality should be top notch and consistenly repeatable, correct? One good point brought up was if I'm trying to turn the saw 90 degrees and cut horizontally, isn't the top of the panel going to weigh down and bind up the blade?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other Thoughts&lt;/strong&gt; - I had the idea of making a panel saw with traveling x and y axes, in order to deal with the issue of needing 16 feet of space, though this idea was lumped into the bag of &quot;too difficult&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So ultimately, the question is what is the &lt;strong&gt;best&lt;/strong&gt; method to make the most difficult 4x8 panel cuts (which seems to me to be lengthwise, down the middle), with respect to the 3 qualities I've brought up: safety, practicality, and quality? Am I right in thinking the panel saw is the answer to that question, or am I being naive and is one of the other suggestions made to be a better solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2965" LastActivityDate="2016-11-30T10:59:26.203" Title="4'x8' length cut - circular saw, table saw, or panel saw?" Tags="|table-saw|plywood|circular-saw|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5032" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-27T18:35:54.233" Score="5" ViewCount="156" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been having the hardest time with one little section of a table I am finishing. I am using Varathane oil based clear polyurethane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been spraying it on with a 20% turpentine / 80% varathane mix with a HVLP and it's been going great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Except for this one side! I've even let it dry completely, sand it down and brushed it on with 100% varathane, and still it krinkles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts on how I can tackle this one side?&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ipzYT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ipzYT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/60v52.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/60v52.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2966" LastActivityDate="2016-11-28T08:39:36.060" Title="polyurethane finish krinkles?" Tags="|finishing|table-making|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5031" CreationDate="2016-11-27T20:41:32.397" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Woodworking encompasses a lot of different project types to practitioners.  By far and away, I believe the most important and versatile tool in any woodshop is a table saw.  Cutting your panels in the area you have available is very doable.  Take a look on youtube for countless videos showing converted garage shops all of which have kicked the car out and utilize the whole space for more important things!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One key to installing a tablesaw in a limited area shop is to make the tools and work surfaces mobile.  Putting the table saw on wheels allows it to be easily moved to accommodate the work. I do not recommend using the roller supports as shown in your photo, rather work with input rails and an off feed table. The key to making safe straight cuts is having full support for the panel on both the in and output sides of the table. I recommend making a mobile bench to use for output that matches the height of the table saw so that it can be placed against the back to receive your panels as they move through the blade.  A 3'x6' surface is desirable so that it can be used to support panels several feet on either side of the blade line.  The table can also serve as your assembly and finishing bench.  When not in use it can be stored against a wall leaving room in the center for other work. A smaller mobile tool cabinet can serve as a side table to support the panel as on the sides of the table saw. Support on the front (input face) cannot be a solid table since you must move towards the table with the panel as you feed it in and a table would force you to reach too far. I would recommend making two support rails that can clamp to the table fence guide.  The type shown in the photo fold up to take very little space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T6IWh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T6IWh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://jayscustomcreations.com/2014/06/table-saw-infeed-support-arms/&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image is from  &lt;a href=&quot;https://jayscustomcreations.com/2014/06/table-saw-infeed-support-arms/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jay's Custom Creations&lt;/a&gt;, an excellent site for ideas regarding how to build your shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-11-27T20:41:32.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5034" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-27T20:50:31.150" Score="4" ViewCount="29210" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought an SUV, so I can now transport boards much more easily than in my sedan. However, the SUV is not big enough to fit 4x8' or 5x5' sheet goods, even with the 2nd and 3rd row seats folded down. I may be able to tilt the sheet goods, but that still may not fit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do have roof racks, so thought that might be a better way to go. I worry about wind getting under the sheet goods and lifting them, though, especially since my hardwood dealer is ~20 miles away via highways. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a good way to tie sheet goods to an SUV roof rack, that would prevent them from lifting up from wind? Or is there a jig I can build to more safely transport wood on the roof rack? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastActivityDate="2016-11-28T05:57:27.503" Title="What is the best way to transport (ply)wood on the roof of a vehicle?" Tags="|plywood|mdf|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5034" CreationDate="2016-11-27T21:07:00.607" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I transport 4x8 plywood on my roof racks, I usually run a couple of 2x4s &lt;em&gt;under&lt;/em&gt; the roof racks the full length of the ply and strap to those at the front and back as well as strapping to the actual roof racks. Makes it a lot harder for the winds to lift it up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="495" LastActivityDate="2016-11-27T21:07:00.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5034" CreationDate="2016-11-27T22:40:19.497" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drive Very Slowly, and Do Not Overload. The &lt;em&gt;Car Talk&lt;/em&gt; guys have a story about a friend who sheared off most of the front of his car when he stopped suddenly but the pile of plywood on the roof didn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personal recommendations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Install a proper roof rack, secure &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;strongly&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; to that without exceeding it's cargo rating, consider a leading airfoil, and drive slow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or tTpransport plywood inside the vehicle. Cut it down to rough sizes first if full sheets won't fit. Mist yards have panel saws and will make some number of cuts free or cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it still wouldn't fit, borrow a van or pickup, rent a truck or pay to have it delivered to site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The risks from doing it wrong greatly exceed the cost of doing it right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-11-27T22:40:19.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5031" CreationDate="2016-11-28T02:12:47.800" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, this edges perilously close to opinion, but I'll do my best to be occasionally factual...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To step back and think about your goal of setting up a woodshop, I'm tempted to say that a tablesaw of some description is inevitable. One can do surprisingly good work with a portable jobsite tablesaw, though it's easier to have some beautiful hunk-o-metal cabinet saw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if we accept my claim of inevitability, one possibility is to just buy a tablesaw now and have done with it. Personally, I'm not a fan of anything on the infeed side, but I'm a huge fan of having a big outfeed table. Your workbench would be excellent for that if it was a little lower. (You could fabricate some riser blocks if you have a hankering for a 40&quot; high bench to do some kinds of work on.) Another 'food for thought' kind of idea is to google the Paulk bench. They're pretty nice and if you don't want a table in the middle of your workspace, they'll pack up nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To your points, I respectfully disagree that sheet goods through a tablesaw are dangerous. Tablesaws are dangerous -- don't get me wrong -- but I can't think of anything innately more dangerous about sheet goods. (In fact, you've got more mass, so the tablesaw would have to work much harder to kick an entire sheet back into your face.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Practicality-wise, it's true that you need space, but only for as long as you're cutting. For most people that means benches and saws on wheels. Cutting across a sheet requires as much as a 52&quot; fence, which kicks your saw well into the 'cabinet saw' category. That could be good or bad. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initially, it's not easy to get perfect cuts with an ungainly sheet on the tablesaw. If you can round up a helper with a bit of woodworking experience, they can push the sheet sideways against the fence while you push from the back. (This is only for when you've got a lot of sheet goods hanging off the side of the saw -- don't ask anyone to get closer than 2' to the spinning blade.) What I'll do is cut close to the line (imperfectly), then re-set and cut a perfect line. (You can also do the rough cut with a circular saw and a chalk line.) When you're only muscling the last bit of sheet goods, it's easier than you think. Plus, if you want, you can set up featherboards to help keep the stock securely against the fence. (Featherboards are an under-appreciated tool in some circles.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your circular saw with guide thing is excellent. If you stuck with it and didn't get a tablesaw right away, you'd have a lot more money to spend on other good stuff like routers. I know you mentioned that it was a bother to set up, and so on, but you can comfort yourself by remembering that you probably aren't spending all your woodworking time cutting down sheet goods. (You aren't, right? Please tell me you aren't.) If you get tired of hoisting it onto the workbench, you can throw a sheet of styrofoam or a few 2x4s on the floor and crawl around. (That certainly makes cutting down the middle easier.) Agree that quality is high, and will be even higher if you use a new, high-tooth count blade, and masking tape on your cutline to help with tearout on the top surface. (This matters more with veneer and crosscuts than rips.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see the appeal of a panel saw, but for the love of whatever deity you like, please stop thinking about this. It's a sledgehammer for a mosquito. I'm the biggest tool hussy I know, and never in a million years would I think seriously about a panel saw. Rips would be okay enough (with the burning/binding at the end of the cut being an issue unless you enlisted a helper to stuff shims into the kerf as you cut), but cutting across the sheet accurately will require an extremely precise set of slides, which would crank the price beyond sensible levels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whew! Any other questions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2016-11-28T02:12:47.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5031" CreationDate="2016-11-28T04:52:35.143" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Home Depot, and probably most other suppliers, will cut plywood and other sheet goods to your specs - the first couple of cuts are usually free.  There may be a small charge if you want several cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using this service can usually get large sheets down to easily-managed pieces (easier to take home than a full 4 x 8 ft sheet, too!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2969" LastActivityDate="2016-11-28T04:52:35.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5031" CreationDate="2016-11-28T05:29:12.050" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, if you have a large production shop, a panel saw or &lt;em&gt;sliding&lt;/em&gt; table saw might make sense, otherwise a circular saw/track saw makes the most sense.  However, what works best for any given person depends on several things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How often you need to make these cuts, and whether or not you really need to cut full sheets yourself&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much time it takes you to set up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Available space for storing the necessary tools and jigs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Available space to make the actual cuts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Budget&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1: If you only cut full sheets 5 times a year, it probably doesn't make sense to buy a panel saw, and a table saw is not the ideal tool for the initial cuts, although it is a good tool for other operations and to clean up rough cuts once you've broken down the full sheet into slightly oversized parts. Most places that sell large sheet goods will cut them for free or for a nominal fee. You can always let them use their tools to get the parts roughly to size, then cut to final dimensions yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2: If it takes you more than 5 or 10 mins to set up and make a cut after unloading the plywood, you won't enjoy the process, especially if that involves rearranging your shop to accommodate the cut. And all that time will add up if you have to do this often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3: A table saw alone doesn't necessarily have a huge footprint, but if you use it a lot you won't want to keep rolling it up against the wall and pulling it out all the time. A panel saw, while nice, also takes up a lot of valuable space--in your case, probably wall space which could be better used for lumber or several other tools. A circular saw or track saw takes up 1 cubic foot or so (more if you have a storage case for it), plus whatever space is needed to store your track/guide and a 4'x8' sheet of foam (possibly broken down into easier-to-store pieces).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4: A table saw requires a lot of space to cut a full sheet, and in a small shop you'll most likely have to move things around every time you need to make these cuts. It is probably the least practical way to break down sheet goods because of all that overhead. A panel saw doesn't necessarily require a lot of additional space during operation but you do need to have space at both ends to help ease loading and unloading. A circular saw or track saw requires 4'x9' plus about an additional foot or so along the axis of your cut. It's easy to drop a piece of foam down on your driveway with your sheet of plywood on top, run an extension cord, set up your guide, and make a cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5: If money is no object, build a bigger shop and buy all 3 tools. Maybe for your table saw, get a large sliding table saw, which will be better suited for cutting sheet goods right from the start.  If your budget is less than $10k, the panel saw is almost certainly overkill in such a small shop, but you will get a lot of use out of both a table saw and circular saw, even if you don't break down sheet goods on the table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2016-11-28T05:29:12.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5034" CreationDate="2016-11-28T05:50:56.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've hauled sheet goods on a roof rack and even on the top of a car without a roof rack, and it is not easy lifting full sheets up there. Even then, I personally would't be very comfortable hauling more than a couple hundred pounds on the roof. I was only hauling across town so didn't have to worry about highway speeds in those cases, but I would have taken a tip from truckers and added &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunnage&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dunnage&lt;/a&gt; or blocking to help focus the pressure of the tie-downs (possibly flexing the sheets slightly) and help keep multiple sheets from sliding against each other and prevent the edges from getting marred by having ratchet straps wrapped directly around them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also that most cars these days only come with the roof rails, and you have to buy the cross bars separately. If you do not have cross bars, it will be more difficult to properly secure your cargo and keep it from sliding forward and backward as you decelerate and accelerate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I much prefer using my 4'x8' utility trailer. It is very easy to secure the load so it doesn't slide around, and if you get one with sides and/or a fold-down ramp on the back, it's even easier. I've also used it to haul heavy stationary tools, yard waste, and water-damaged basement carpet and pad. Granted, it requires some space for storage, but there have been quite a few instances in which it was way easier to load and unload my trailer than it would have been to use a roof rack or truck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2016-11-28T05:57:27.503" LastActivityDate="2016-11-28T05:57:27.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5032" CreationDate="2016-11-28T08:39:36.060" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks like a classic case of surface contamination to me, where the varnish has crawled away from something it can't stick to and settled at the edges of the contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it doesn't usually happen on so large an area as this edge (often it's just tiny spots, the dreaded &quot;fisheye defect&quot;) it looks a lot like the kind of defect you get if you accidentally get a product containing silicone on the wood. This is one of the primary reasons it comes so highly recommended not to use any silicone waxes, caulk or polishes* anywhere in the workshop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can't guarantee it'll work but one standard way to address this problem is to coat the problem areas with shellac first to seal off the contamination from the varnish. Once the shellac has dried (about an hour at room temperature will usually be enough, wait longer if it's colder) the varnish should go on normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Many modern furniture polishes contain some silicone, one of numerous reasons they're a terrible way to care for wooden furniture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-11-28T08:39:36.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5031" CreationDate="2016-11-28T11:16:12.120" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It all depends&lt;/strong&gt; on how much you want to spend and how often you'll be doing this. Not the table saw, though. Not safe that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As someone who does this only to create pieces of wood for use in my own home, and who doesn't own a circular saw (for confidence/safety reasons), I'd get the shop that sold me the panel to cut it into boards the width I wanted. They have a much better rig than you can afford and will get a precisely parallel cut accurate to a millimeter or so. Or, if I wanted to  make a board narrower at a later date, I'd use my trusty jigsaw. Yes, it's slower than a circular saw, but it's far harder to do yourself a serious injury with one. Especially so, if you do not have a proper bench to put large panels or boards onto, and just prop the board up on a couple of garden chairs in your back yard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do have a power plane so I can straighten the edge. However, if the jigsawed edge is against a wall, nobody will notice. Plastered or plain brick/block walls are never exactly straight in any case!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2974" LastActivityDate="2016-11-28T11:16:12.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4980" CreationDate="2016-11-28T20:33:23.527" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are able to make the butcher block yourself, you could create it with the outside blocks longer than the inner ones.  Similar to the answer from @Treow Wyrhta but instead of long boards, match the butcher block.  My in-laws had a an old butcher's table that was made this way.  You also would not need to miter the corners as it would all be vertical blocks.  Basically replace the brown in his image with vertical blocks matching those in the rest of the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Sorry, I cannot comment here at this time)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2980" LastActivityDate="2016-11-28T20:33:23.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5031" CreationDate="2016-11-28T21:29:53.217" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;None of the above - I have a small shop and run into the same issue, have you looked into a track saw? There is plans on-line to essentially make your own using your existing portable saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2981" LastActivityDate="2016-11-28T21:29:53.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5031" CreationDate="2016-11-28T23:39:19.087" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cannot comment, so I have to reply here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My brother has the Festool circular saw with the track.  It is really nice, but not budget friendly.  You may not find yourself cutting plywood often.  While getting the store to cut the panels down is an option, the accuracy can be off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use your current method and just take your time.  When supporting the plywood, you can put some sacrificial boards on top of the sawhorses and cut into them as well.  I have a couple cutting jigs such as the one you show for different lengths.  Just take your time and watch what you are doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you are ready to spend a little more, if you find you are still cutting a lot of panels, then get a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=circular%20saw%20guide%20rail&amp;amp;oq=circular%20saw%20guide%20&amp;amp;aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0l5.6223j0j7&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;guide rail&lt;/a&gt;. or other track saw option.  Or you will find your accuracy has improved and your money is better spent on wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2980" LastActivityDate="2016-11-28T23:39:19.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5031" CreationDate="2016-11-29T01:41:23.673" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often have to rip full sheets of plywood. I've tried several different methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My favorite by far is to do it with a circular saw on the floor on a sheet of 4x8 rigid pink Styrofoam installation. You don't have to mess around with saw horses or having support for cutoffs. A sheet of insulation costs about $11 and lasts for dozens if not hundreds of cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also use a Kreg Rip Cut jig for my cordless circular saw. It's quicker and easier than clamping a straight edge guide and much cheaper than a track saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, I've got a track saw and still always reach for the  Kreg Rip Cut when breaking down full sheets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2983" LastActivityDate="2016-11-29T01:41:23.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5015" CreationDate="2016-11-29T11:58:42.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a rule of thumb, when laminating or veneering any panel, you want to keep it balanced, meaning applying the same, or close to equal finishes to each side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For one sided, good one side panels, we will apply a backer to the unfinished backside to maintain a balanced panel. If you have laminate on the face, you ideally want a laminate on the backside. The liner can be a commodity product, and doesn't need to match the color of the face, so it can be something less expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plywood is a core that is far more likely to warp than other options like MDF or even particle board. Laminating a single face will certainly exacerbate the warping, depending on the size and application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a really great resource from Formica on the subject.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.formica.com/-/media/formica/north-america/document-library/technical-briefs/laminate-panel-warpage.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Formica® Laminate by formica Group / Avoid Laminate-Clad Panel Warpage&#xA;Technical Brief&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastEditorUserId="10942" LastEditDate="2022-01-10T19:15:39.713" LastActivityDate="2022-01-10T19:15:39.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5048" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-29T19:13:09.833" Score="4" ViewCount="767" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what this joint is even called, but I saw it on a youtube.com video where the guy was showing old joinery that isn't used much any more. I'm including a rough drawing I did of what it look like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5tWrY.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5tWrY.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, it's basically a butt joint, but there is a small piece on the edge where he's made a 45deg bevel. They come together to make it look really nice, but I don't know how I'd easily make that cut. He used a compound miter saw, but ours doesn't tilt. Dowels and glue are what hold it together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have an idea? Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="232" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2016-11-30T09:09:15.787" Title="How do I cut this corner joint?" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5048" CreationDate="2016-11-29T19:28:08.817" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;top&quot; piece can be cut with 2 passes on a table saw.  One with piece upside down and the blade at 45 degrees, the other after flipping the piece over and setting the blade at 90.  The Side could be done with 2 passes as well if a dado blade is used.  Otherwise it would be 3 passes with the first having the board on edge and hopefully a tall feather board in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the first two cuts pay attention to blade tilt, fence location and don't bind the final piece of wood between the fence and the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry, I do not have tools to show this in pictures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be router blades and a router table.  There are bits to make a joint similar to this, which produces the same result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that the dowels may be overkill, especially if this results in any frame around the top.  They will surely be a pain to align.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2980" LastActivityDate="2016-11-29T19:28:08.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5048" CreationDate="2016-11-29T21:20:59.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the right dimensions, it's possible to make a cut almost identical to that &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S074ke-EJ6U&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;in one pass&lt;/a&gt; with a special &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/rockler-miter-fold-dado-set&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;miter fold&quot; dado set&lt;/a&gt;. The specialized blade in the dado set was originally designed by Andrew Klein to simplify cutting and assembling drawers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2016-11-29T21:20:59.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5051" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5059" CreationDate="2016-11-30T00:58:19.477" Score="1" ViewCount="1685" Body="&lt;p&gt;What sort of wood found in Southeast Asia is lightweight and can be used to build teething toys for children?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2990" LastActivityDate="2016-12-01T10:43:11.207" Title="Wood types in Southeast Asia" Tags="|wood-selection|lumber|toy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5048" CreationDate="2016-11-30T09:09:15.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what this joint is even called&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In English terminology this is a dowel-reinforced mitred rebate joint (US English substitute rabbet for rebate). It is not an easy joint to form on powered equipment (fairly challenging to form by hand as well!) if you want it dead accurate, which it needs to be to work at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic joint, without the dowels, gives the neat corner appearance of a mitre joint but adds long-grain glue surfaces to improve the strength of the glue bond. &lt;em&gt;But the dowels alone strengthen the joint.&lt;/em&gt; So actually there's no point in going to the trouble of creating this joint for strength purposes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest only doing it if you want the challenge, or you want to show off the joint on an exposed edge in the finished piece (e.g. the front of a bookcase or the corner joints on a jewellery box).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an alternative I would recommend this joint instead, the lock-mitre:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RKHf4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RKHf4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lock-mitre joint&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/tipstechniques/lock-mitre&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lock-Mitre&lt;/a&gt; on Canadian Woodworking.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anything it's more attractive, as the name suggests it self-locks which helps to remove the need for dowels, and as you can see from the picture it is much more easily formed since you use the one router bit (and the one setup on the router table) for both end profiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tip:&lt;/strong&gt; if you want to go ahead with trying the joint you posted, &lt;em&gt;drill the dowel holes before shaping the edges of the boards&lt;/em&gt;. Possibly not obvious but it's much easier to drill those accurately when your edges are still square. Also, drill the holes that go into the end grain slightly deeper than needed so that there's no possibility of the dowels bottoming out, which would prevent the joint from closing up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not part of what you asked about but I wanted to touch on it anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;He used a compound miter saw, but ours doesn't tilt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can still do this cut using a standard mitre saw for stock that isn't too wide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You set up a temporary fence at exactly 45°, clamp it well so it can't move (with the clamps safely positioned so they don't foul the saw body and the blade), then run the saw once to trim the fence to length. Then it's just a matter of holding your workpieces upright against the fence to get accurate, repeatable edge-mitre cuts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-11-30T09:09:15.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5031" CreationDate="2016-11-30T10:59:26.203" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a table saw, and I used to cut panels on it.  I have stopped (because of the manouvering difficulties), and I now use a hand-held circular saw.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are doing this a lot, I would strongly recommend a &quot;sawboard&quot;.  (For example &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.subwoofer-builder.com/sawboard/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.subwoofer-builder.com/sawboard/&lt;/a&gt;).  The basic idea is that you glue a fence to a piece of board, and then run your circular saw along the fence.  The edge of the board is then &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; aligned with where the cut is going to be (which makes set-up very simple).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1646" LastActivityDate="2016-11-30T10:59:26.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5054" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5058" CreationDate="2016-11-30T17:42:48.767" Score="3" ViewCount="6080" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wanting to try building a simple clock like &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mjKAF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mjKAF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image credit - www.aliexpress.com&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Image credit - www.aliexpress.com)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is about the brass inlays. From what I've found on the web, the process is drill perfectly circular holes for the inlays, glue in the small pieces of brass rod (tapping in so they are just proud of the wood) and sanding smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First question about this is does brass sand away with regular sandpaper (say 120 grit) or does it require something special? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, what is the best tool for cutting brass? Will a hacksaw cut it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a particular place to find brass suitable for inlay? I found some options by searching for brass rod on the big ecommerce site, but I wasn't sure if that was a good option or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips would be greatly appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2087" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-01-12T13:57:38.180" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T13:57:38.180" Title="Tips for Simple Inlay of Brass into Walnut" Tags="|sanding|hand-saw|inlay|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5054" CreationDate="2016-11-30T17:51:47.743" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it were me, I would probably looks for thin sheets that I could drill or punch circles out of, rather than rods that I can to cut to short lengths. Then you could inlay them flush to begin with. Formica, Wilsonart, and several other laminate companies make brass laminates with or without phenolic backer. You can order samples on their website which should give you more than enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you could just glue them into shallow holes drilled to the same depth as the laminate thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wilsonart.com/decorative-metals&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wilsonart Brass Laminate&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastEditorUserId="2753" LastEditDate="2016-11-30T18:06:57.057" LastActivityDate="2016-11-30T18:06:57.057" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5054" CreationDate="2016-11-30T17:57:57.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would use a forstner bit matching the rod's diameter and a drill press for the holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any brass should do as long as it is solid brass and not a plated brass item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the glue has dried (epoxy would be my choice) file the brass down even with the surface.  Then sand using a sanding block or other method which will keep the paper flat and has a hard backing.  The idea here is to not sand the surrounding softer wood more than the brass.  You can step down in grits until you get to a very fine paper.  The finer sanding could be done with a sander as long as you are not removing a lot of material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used hack saws to cut brass before.  I have seen where some have used table saws, but I would use a dedicated blade if taking that route.  And OF COURSE, eye protection!  (Memories of a 7th grade shop class video of metal in a guy's eye.  &lt;em&gt;shudder&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2980" LastActivityDate="2016-11-30T17:57:57.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5057" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-30T18:58:41.073" Score="2" ViewCount="701" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old 3'x5' dining table sitting in the garage. I think it would be perfect to go in our den as a large coffee table so my wife can do her huge 3000 piece puzzles up there.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The legs are detachable, so it should be easy to just chop off the bottoms to get to coffee table height.  What I'd really like to do is have the height be adjustable so it can go between coffee table, mid-height for board games etc in front of a shortish couch, and up to dining table height. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know a thing or two about metal work, but almost nothing about woodwork, so I'm hoping for something fairly simple. I don't need the height adjustment to be continuous or even particularly easy.  My thought was to: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;chop off the bottom ~6&quot; of each leg and then cut that in half. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;drill a hole in the ends of each piece&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;attach the pieces together with threaded rod&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then adjusting the table height would involve screwing the bottom sections on or off one at a time. As a bonus I should be able to use that to level the top too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this a sensible way to do things? The legs are straight vertical, so there shouldn't really be any horizontal forces on anything.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I just use a drill press for the center holes, or do I need to remind myself how to use a lathe?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any rule of thumb for picking the rod (material, thickness, threading)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What's the best way to attach the rod? I was thinking to tap the wood itself, then glue the rod into the bottom pieces.  Would something like a nut make more sense? If so, how do I attach the nut? (epoxy?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a completely different better way to do this?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2992" LastActivityDate="2016-11-30T18:58:41.073" Title="Ideas for converting dining table to adjustable height coffee table" Tags="|wood|furniture|design|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5054" CreationDate="2016-12-01T01:17:46.647" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;First question about this is does brass sand away with regular sandpaper (say 120 grit) or does it require something special? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes it does but you'll run into a big issue with metallic particles being spread over the wood and possibly becoming lodged. The tiniest of recesses can harbour metal dust and you'll catch glints even from individual specs from various viewing angles forever, but worse is that American black walnut is an open-grained species so the entire surface is covered in potential sites for the metal dust to accumulate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the &quot;just proud of the wood&quot; bit in your description of the method I'd suggest is not the best way to go. Once you get some brass do a test and see, I'm sure you'll find it would be preferable not to sand it along with the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Three options on the drilled holes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Most obvious and the one I was initially plugging is drilling the holes dead on the correct depth, which is easily done using the depth stop on a drill press or bench drill. It's more challenging to do consistently if freehand drilling but also possible if you're careful and use a depth stop of some kind (commercial or homemade). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second options is making the holes ever so slightly too deep which would be preferable to doing them shallow since the wood will sand much more easily than the brass if then sanding everything flush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third option is to drill straight through and I think this is the best idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First and third options mean you don't have to sand the brass in place at all, and on top of that will allow you to polish the brass if you like, then protect the surface with a thin coating of lacquer before glueing in place, keeping it bright for many years to come. A mirror finish is easily created on brass, but I don't think would be feasible after in situ because you'd inevitably stain the wood with the polishing residue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few reasons I now think option no. 3 is &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; way to go. First is that you don't have to saw thin disks of brass but instead can use short lengths, which are way easier to handle. And you don't need both faces to be dead square since the rear face doesn't register with the bottom of the hole, saving a lot of effort.... even the lengths can vary without it affecting the top surface being dead flush :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bit types&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Forstner bits are the bit of choice for the larger holes (sawtooth bits that look similar to Forstners will also do a great job), and brad-point bits are a great pick for the smaller holes at 1, 2, 4, 5 etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice that in the sample clock pictured the larger holes aren't as uniform as they could be! The one at 3 o'clock is a lot off, which just shows how careful you have to be if you want a neat result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also, what is the best tool for cutting brass? Will a hacksaw cut it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, with ease, but in case it's not obvious the cut surface will require significant filing and/or sanding to smooth it off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that there are various kinds of brass, some are 'free cutting' and will saw much more easily than others. But as a decent hacksaw blade can even cut annealed tool steel you should have little difficulty as long as you can hold the brass rod firmly in place so it doesn't move around while being sawn (this wastes energy and makes cutting go much more slowly, but also increases the chance of the blade binding in the kerf and potentially snapping as a result). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lubricating the blade with a light oil (mineral spirits will work OK, you could also use baby oil or mineral oil) is a good idea and will help the cut go more smoothly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that for the thinner rod you may not be able to use the same coarser hacksaw blade that would work to saw the thicker rod because the teeth could be too large for the smaller diameter. If memory serves the rule of thumb is that you want at least three teeth in the cut (ideally more), so work out how fine a saw blade you'll want to use based on the diameter of the thin rod you end up getting. That same finer blade can then be used on the thicker rod, although it will saw more slowly it will give a better surface that requires less effort to clean up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a particular place to find brass suitable for inlay? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are probably dozens of places you could get brass, including some craft or hobby stores. Online there's sure to be a seller or two on eBay and I've heard great things about OnlineMetals.com but haven't been able to order from them myself because shipping to Europe is a killer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit for a follow-on query posted in the Comments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Its interesting, after I posted the question, some time later I was thinking exactly about your option 3. I was trying to determine if such a solution would work. The back won't show, so no problems there. But, if you drill the hole all the way through, how do you hold the brass in place? I assume you would still glue it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes it would be best to glue the brass in position. In theory you could go for a friction fit and because it's a clock that just sits there on the wall and isn't moved around much that would probably be fine, but best to at least tack the brass in place with a dot of superglue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sticking disks into shallow holes I'd have also recommended epoxy, but for just a holding something like this in position superglue would work fine, although if you have both epoxy is still slightly preferable IMO. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So insert the rods from the front, flush up their front faces with the wood (check with your fingers, not by eye as your fingers can detect even the slightest discrepancy that you can't see) and place just a dot of glue at the edge of a hole at the back, that's enough hold for something like this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bonus tips:&lt;/strong&gt; if you ever wanted to reclaim the brass, for example because the wood got damaged from a fall and you want to make a replacement clock using the existing brass, the hold of epoxy can be weakened by heating. The heat from a domestic hairdryer should be enough to soften the epoxy, loosening its grip sufficiently to allow the brass to be popped free. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go with superglue there are of course debonders, but you can go low-tech and just freeze the whole clock. Superglue gets very brittle at freezing temperatures allowing even strong bonds to be snapped with ease, so either tap the brass lightly with a hammer or by gripping with pliers and twisting (at the back of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-12-01T09:51:47.463" LastActivityDate="2016-12-01T09:51:47.463" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5051" CreationDate="2016-12-01T10:43:11.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the woods listed in the Comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rosewood&lt;/strong&gt; would be a great choice in terms of durability. Potential for toxicity is a concern but anyway &quot;rosewood&quot; doesn't mean much these days. Much wood sold as rosewood is either of a lesser species of &lt;em&gt;dalbergia&lt;/em&gt; or something that looks (a little) like rosewood but is actually a completely unrelated species. So I think you have to discount this because what you'd buy is an unknown quantity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Teak&lt;/strong&gt; may be a poor choice in part because it has a high natural silica content that may wear baby teeth down excessively. Also unfortunately when you buy &quot;teak&quot; these days that isn't always what you're getting and one of the common substitutions in particular is splintery and might be extremely hazardous to use for a teething toy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mahogany&lt;/strong&gt;..... I hate to say it again but &quot;mahogany&quot; has the same issues as the above! The most likely mahogany being sold there is probably not quite as robust as you'd like for this purpose, being soft enough to easily mark with a fingernail. It is fairly smooth-textured and easily worked however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Albasia&lt;/strong&gt; is a lightweight wood and light woods are generally quite soft and weak (balsa being the supreme example of this) so I think that rules that out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So of the woods you list only &lt;strong&gt;jabon&lt;/strong&gt; is left and I think it may be the best choice anyway. Jabon, also referred to as kadam (&lt;em&gt;Anthocephalus chinensis&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;Anthocephalus cadamba&lt;/em&gt;) is a tree that has edible fruits, which is often a sign the wood from the same tree won't give toxicity problems. It is not overly hard so easily worked, but note that it has a wide range of listed densities, so try to pick pieces that seem heavy in the hand as the wood in those boards will be denser and more durable than lighter boards of the same species.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also like that jabon is a tree that is heavily planted, so not restricted by CITES or on an endangered list like some of the others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-12-01T10:43:11.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5060" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5061" CreationDate="2016-12-02T01:38:07.733" Score="6" ViewCount="2959" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just want the ability to countersink (occasional use) and I have 6-7-8mm head screws and I'm buying a single 8.3mm countersink bit (Makita HSS P-73542 3 flute). But what's stopping me from not drilling with it all the way, just stop when the hole reaches ~6mm diameter for example? Officially, does the countersink bit need to reach its &quot;max&quot; diamater, THEN (by pushing it more) make a tiny half-mm straight &quot;wall&quot; for the side of the screw head? If that tiny wall is needed or I need more precision I guess I could even finish it with a 6mm normal wood drill bit, no?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2999" LastActivityDate="2016-12-02T08:55:52.813" Title="Is it a problem if my countersink bit is slightly larger than it needs to be?" Tags="|drilling|drill-bits|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5060" CreationDate="2016-12-02T02:01:56.553" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's perfectly fine and common practice to use a countersink bit that is bigger than the taper you make with it, regulating the taper diameter by how deep you go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A vertical wall above the taper is known as a counterbore (as it is also known when there's no taper).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A combined countersink/counterbore that leaves a flat-head fastener exactly flush with the surface is very fancy, but it's very common, at least in my experience, to simply have the countersink when using flat-head fasteners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2016-12-02T02:01:56.553" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5060" CreationDate="2016-12-02T08:55:52.813" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's actually standard practice to use a countersink bit that's larger than the countersink depression you will make in the wood, precisely because you don't want that little vertical side wall&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; usually. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past 'rose countersinks' were one of the most common types (used in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3464/what-are-the-main-different-types-of-hand-drills/3480#3480&quot;&gt;swing braces&lt;/a&gt;) and these could have heads 1/2&quot; or larger in diameter and they were definitely not using screws with heads half an inch across most of the time :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;But what's stopping me from not drilling with it all the way, just stop when the hole reaches ~6mm diameter for example? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing really. Couple of reasons you might not want to, but you can if you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is usual practice for the countersink mark in the wood to be just deep enough to accommodate the screw head so that it sits flush with the surface&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. This is a convention only but does tend to look neatest. Deeper countersinks (i.e. &lt;em&gt;wider&lt;/em&gt; countersinks) can look crude or sloppy. Obviously this is if the screw head is on show, for non-show surfaces it really matters very little what you do as long as the wood hasn't been chewed up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's the second reason you may not want to do this commonly, once a countersink bit bottoms out there can be a tendency for it to start chewing up or burning the wood because it's not designed to go in further, but note that this is dependent on countersink design — there are four or five major types today from what I've seen on sale and they don't all work exactly the same. Here's a selection someone else lined up for comparison:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yBUjS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yBUjS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Countersink types&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2012/07/31/countersinks-poor-to-excellent/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&#xA;Countersinks, poor to excellent&lt;/a&gt; on the Heartwood blog.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that countersink sharpness is everything. Even the best design won't create clean, neat countersinks in wood if it's not sharp. All designs can be sharpened by the user with care, but HSS bits may need a diamond file or a small diamond plate rather than a common needle file or warding file made from hard steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tip:&lt;/strong&gt; with some designs of countersink it's best to &lt;em&gt;do your countersinks first&lt;/em&gt;, then drill your clearance holes. If you drill the clearance hole first and then try to countersink at top as is most frequently done (and very often recommended) you can get bad chatter and it can create oval or uneven countersinks. But this needs to be tried with each countersink bit and in scraps of the wood you're using as the hardness and uniformity of the wood makes a difference here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Where you do want that you're creating what's called a &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3612/what-joining-methods-would-be-best-for-the-legs-and-other-areas-of-a-height-adju/3613#3613&quot;&gt;counterbore&lt;/a&gt; and for that you may not need to countersink at all. You could just drill a large enough hole to accommodate the screw head and then drill the clearance hole for the screw shaft in the centre of the hole formed. There are also combination pilot/clearance/countersink bits available to do all three operations in one go, a huge time saver if you have a lot of screws to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Next most common would be &lt;em&gt;slightly&lt;/em&gt; deeper so the head of the screw sits just below the surface of the wood. You can countersink deeply, which is fairly commonly done when screwing into the top of workbenches as well as on jigs or workshop aids used with hand tools, to make sure that a plane iron or chisel won't accidentally bump into a screw head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-12-02T08:55:52.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5063" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-03T05:23:23.167" Score="2" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am attempting to recreate ornamental brackets that were installed on my porch.  The house in built in New England at around 1914.  The brackets appear to have reoccurring patterns.  I recognize some basic shapes, and I would like to figure out how the original craftsman laid out the bracket so they could be produced in batches.  There are at least a dozen, and they are fairly roughly made, it looks like the hand of a carpenter (as opposed to a journeyman cabinet maker, or furniture maker).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have watched Roy Underhill's The Woodwright Shop, and I recall an episode where Roy used simple dividers to layout impressive details on a chest of some kind.  I also recall a different episode where his guest produced remarkable beading and decorative edging using similar techniques.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a good resource I can look for that will allow me to piece together decorative shapes using an ordinary pair of dividers?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KgTMK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KgTMK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;photo of bracket&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dimensions are 16 inches by 16 inches, cut from 3/4-inch stock, and fitted with (5) ~1/2-inch diameter spindles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3005" LastActivityDate="2016-12-04T05:19:05.917" Title="How do I use dividers to layout decorative shapes?" Tags="|hand-tools|design|restoration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5065" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5472" CreationDate="2016-12-03T19:57:48.217" Score="2" ViewCount="1777" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have drawers full of knives and blades that have never been as sharp as when they came from the factory.  I have some whetstones, Lansky sharpeners, and leather strops.  I have tried to use those but eventually realized that I'm as likely to make an edge worse as I am to improve it.  In large part this is because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can't maintain a proper and constant angle of attack while working a curved blade across a series of stones by hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't know which step to use or for how long, given a blade's condition.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meanwhile, I have benches full of power tools: Bench grinders, belt sanders, drill press.  I believe I can hold a reasonably constant angle while dragging a blade once or twice across a tool that's doing the work for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I understand it, there are only three steps to producing a perfect edge:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sharpen:&lt;/strong&gt;  In this step the blade is run &lt;em&gt;against&lt;/em&gt; the grit to grind a new edge.  Perhaps two grits (usually 100 and 400) are used in this step.  (Optionally, one might grind a relief angle that's more shallow than the cutting edge angle, but it's the latter one that has to be maintained going forward.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hone:&lt;/strong&gt; Here the blade is run &lt;em&gt;with&lt;/em&gt; the grit to knock off burrs and nudge dings back in line.  Power honing is done with finer grits, but not sure how fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Strop/polish:&lt;/strong&gt; Once again the blade is run &lt;em&gt;with&lt;/em&gt; the grit to smooth the edge.  You know you're done when the edge is as shiny as a mirror.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this in mind I began searching for sharpening wheels preloaded with an appropriate compound for each step.  Instead I've found a smorgasbord of wheels ranging from glass to paper, and &lt;em&gt;separate&lt;/em&gt; polishing compounds of widely varying composition, many of which users report needing to supplement with oil and wax.  Great.  Am I missing a shortcut around selecting and loading the power sharpening tools?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, suppose I manage to find or prepare a line of 3 or 4 powered wheels.  I pick up a knife.  How do I know which step to start at?  And how do I know when I'm ready to move it to the next step?  I know that if I do it right then at the end I have a blade that will catch and slice cleanly through a loose sheet of newsprint.  But is there a foolproof way to get there without grinding away undue amounts of time and metal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastEditorUserId="94" LastEditDate="2016-12-03T20:07:59.530" LastActivityDate="2017-02-08T13:41:14.650" Title="How can I properly sharpen my knives with power tools?" Tags="|technique|sharpening|tool-maintenance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5063" CreationDate="2016-12-04T02:02:25.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good answer by @Graphus, though my initial interpretation of your question was about using dividers to lay out the curved shapes of the bracket itself. If so, my advice is to not bother... just pull one down and use it as a template for future ones. (You could either trace and jigsaw, which would give you a slightly rustic look, or you could use that with a template router bit. Given your quantities, I'd probably choose the jigsaw.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I know this isn't a shopping advice site, but here's one anyway: &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.cincinnatidowel.com/9_-Birch-Spindle----S7/313&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://store.cincinnatidowel.com/9_-Birch-Spindle----S7/313&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(No commercial affiliation; haven't used them, but would seriously consider it if I needed 60 identical spindles.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2016-12-04T02:02:25.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5063" CreationDate="2016-12-04T05:19:05.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When &lt;em&gt;designing&lt;/em&gt; projects, it's common for dimensions to be defined in terms of ratios to other parts of the project, as a way of subtly tying things together even when their size varies. There are some theories about what kinds of ratios look good/&quot;natural&quot;. If you're using this spproach, the actual measurement is less important than the ratio, and dividers can be a way of laying out these relationships without locking yourself into inches or millimeters or other things that may not divide conveniently where you want them to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-12-04T05:19:05.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5068" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-04T14:43:12.800" Score="1" ViewCount="292" Body="&lt;p&gt;My spray gun gets clogged or sticky between coats. Do I really have to take apart the gun? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I keep the spray gun usable between lacquer coats?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3007" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T00:34:26.107" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T00:34:26.107" Title="Clogging when spraying lacquer with a gun" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5069" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5083" CreationDate="2016-12-04T14:57:07.640" Score="6" ViewCount="752" Body="&lt;p&gt;Odd thought just went by: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are sandpaper-based sharpening systems (&quot;scary sharp&quot; and it's cousins), generally using fine wet/dry sandpaper on a flat surface like plate glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are motorized versions of this, typically spinning a disk of sandpaper mounted on a similar flat plate. And I know narrow-belt sanders are sometimes used by knife makers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It just occurred to me to wonder whether an appropriately mounted/jigged sander I already have on hand -- belt or disk -- could be (ab)used for this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So: Outside of the usual problems of holding the blade reliably at appropriate angle and not overheating and the like, can anyone suggest reasons this wouldn't work? I suspect buying or building  a proper slow-speed  grindstone would be sufficiently better to justify its cost, but I could see this possibly being useful on a worksite....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-12-16T03:32:09.780" Title="Sander in lieu of grindstone?" Tags="|power-tools|sanding|sharpening|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5070" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5082" CreationDate="2016-12-04T16:47:30.637" Score="4" ViewCount="2650" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a plywood bunk bed for our two 4 year olds. Obviously I need it to look cool, but more importantly not collapse on their impressionable skulls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan on using 3/4 plywood (.706 or so) with 3/8&quot; dowels and some pocket screws (as well as titebond). I don't want to over or under engineer it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The width and depth allow for about 1/2&quot; on each side of the mattresses. I'm most concerned about&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;racking left to right and back to front&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;enough support across the top long spans of 3/4&quot; to prevent collapsing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on possibly using corner glue/screw blocks (triangle shaped) to prevent affecting the mattress at all and 1.5&quot; x 1.5&quot; slat supports on both the uppers and lowers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, am I missing something that could strength the whole assembly? Will what I have planned be good enough? Is there a connector I'm overlooking. Didn't want to user metal 90 degree connectors because of the sharp edges but I &lt;strong&gt;could&lt;/strong&gt; put them out of reach for the children.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White dots are 3/8&quot; dowels, and green lines are pocket screws (starting in grey piece)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AYs8b.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AYs8b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;dowel placement and pocket screws&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interior shows 1.5&quot;x1.5&quot; slat supports, 1.5&quot;x1.5&quot; corner and mid span supports, and potentials 1.5&quot;x1.5&quot; triangle shaped glue/screw block. The upper bunk is similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EO4Cx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EO4Cx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;interior shot&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3008" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditorDisplayName="user862" LastEditDate="2019-10-24T20:58:51.583" LastActivityDate="2019-10-24T20:58:51.583" Title="How can I strengthen my 3/4&quot; Plywood Bunk Bed Plan?" Tags="|plywood|strength|racking|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5070" CreationDate="2016-12-04T17:28:31.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While this is a great design overall, I'd be a tiny bit concerned about the pocket screws resisting side to side racking. If you could make one (long) side out of a single sheet of ply, the other side could be pieced together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In place of pocket screws, you could probably find a strong mechanical connector -- one for each corner, so 8 in total -- that would be childproof. The sort of thing I'm thinking of is a countertop joiner, though you'd want it smaller (as the pic is of one that is 3/4 thick).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v9C11.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v9C11.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;from https://www.amazon.com/Joint-Connector-Small-2-1-3-1/dp/B003Z7XT12&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image credit: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B003Z7XT12&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2016-12-04T17:28:31.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5070" CreationDate="2016-12-04T19:27:47.033" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to prevent racking would be to replace the slats at the head and foot of the mattress supports with a solid piece of plywood approx 1' wide that is solidly connected to the three sides of the bed frame it contacts.  I would also suggest that the pocket screws could be replaced with solid dowels as well. If you have a table saw and a dado blade set you can create dadoes at all connections, skip the dowels altogether and simply glue the pieces together.  Make the dado depths half the plywood thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-12-04T19:27:47.033" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5073" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-04T19:31:58.677" Score="8" ViewCount="17108" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fairly new to woodworking here. I bought a dirt cheap 13 amp &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-13-Amp-7-1-4-in-Circular-Saw-CSB125/205216317&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;$40 Ryobi&lt;/a&gt; from Home Depot, and I've used it for certain things successfully, like cutting 4x8 1/2&quot; plywood pretty straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lately I've been getting some pretty bad blade binding, and seemingly warping and bending as it travels down creating a horrendous, wavy cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First happened on some 3/4&quot; melamine.  I was able to go back over and fix up the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xs9rL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xs9rL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happened again today on some simple 1&quot;x4&quot; pine, trying to cut at a 45 through to make a french cleat hanging strip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/69Qrn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/69Qrn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it was apparently bad enough to rub markings off the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3e6eY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3e6eY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a couple other points to note:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I had not previously used the blade on each day I made these cuts, so the blade was cold and they were the first cuts of the day.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The blade on the saw now is the one seen in the photo (looks about 24 tooth), which came with the saw, and has only been used to cut the melamine board in the first photo.  I swapped it on when the first blade (about 60-80 tooth) started warping, and I thought maybe the blade was old, and the 24 tooth was the only other one I had.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Had a straight guide edge in both cases clamped down, and it did not shift whatsoever.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I did not push particularly aggressively.  In fact in both cases, I went back and tried to progress extremely slowly, and it was as if as soon as the blade went into the wood, it just started having major trouble.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure what's going on, but I'm trying to avoid an unsafe condition and get perfectly straight cuts.  Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2965" LastEditorUserId="2965" LastEditDate="2016-12-04T19:48:22.980" LastActivityDate="2023-07-12T02:14:50.840" Title="Circular saw warping, binding, and wavy cuts" Tags="|circular-saw|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5075" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-04T21:29:14.773" Score="5" ViewCount="1875" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only power tool I have is a drill. I have a set of bits, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I make the edge of a wooden dowel rounded off inwardly, so I can place on another dowel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the shape I’m looking for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E9SNs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E9SNs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the effect I’m trying to achieve:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SOPpP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SOPpP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3011" LastEditorUserId="2524" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T03:24:42.320" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T15:38:43.293" Title="How can I inwardly round off the end of a dowel?" Tags="|technique|dowel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5073" CreationDate="2016-12-04T21:32:32.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First suspicion would be the blade, but if you've swapped out the blade and it's still happening then it sounds like the arbor is bent/out of alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has the saw been dropped at all? or bound/jammed when making a cut?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's less than a year old (and you hadn't damaged by dropping it), I would be returning the saw and exchanging it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="282" LastActivityDate="2016-12-04T21:32:32.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5073" CreationDate="2016-12-04T23:11:06.843" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check whether the blade is parallel with the edge of the base, the edge that goes against the guide. If the blade is further away at the front, it's going to want to walk away from the straight-edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is probably easiest to do when the base is in the 90 degree position rather than set at a bevel. Use a calipers if you have one to get a pretty precise measurement. You would like it to be within 1/64&quot; (0.015&quot;) at the front and back; 1/16&quot; would be enough to cause a problem. Mark a tooth with a sharpie and rotate the blade so you measure from the same tooth at front and back; this takes runout out of the equation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you're at it, check that the base is firmly attached and that you can't move it side-to-side when it's locked. It general, you'd want to stare at it until you understand how the base attaches to the saw body and make sure everything is tight and as rigid as its design will allow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can check the arbor (with the saw unplugged) by clamping a piece of material, maybe a dowel or thin strip of wood to the base and brought very close to the blade. Turning the blade by hand say a quarter-turn at a time (and taking your hand off in-between movements) see if the space between the strip and the blade changes. You could use a feeler gauge to be precise, but I'd start just by eye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the blade doesn't run true, try another blade. If you get the same result and the runout is more than say 1/32&quot; trade it in for another at the store. You might want to open the box on the new one and do this test there before taking the second one. I'm not entirely confident about what acceptable runout is, perhaps another answer or comment can weigh in on that. Definitely 1/8&quot; is too much and 1/64&quot; is probably the best you can expect and would work fine. So you'll need to use your judgement on that. In general runout is only going to widen the kerf though, not cause tracking problems like you're seeing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are going to need to apply some &quot;inward&quot; pressure on the saw to keep it running tight up against the guide. And of course the guide needs to be straight; sight down it's length to confirm that. Also, good results are going to require your workpiece be laying flat. It can't be dished or humped; you'll need to support such that it lies flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other thing, the work needs to be supported from underneath, &lt;em&gt;but not clamped across the cut/kerf&lt;/em&gt;. It the picture above I see the french cleat workpiece in what appears to be a vise. If the work is clamped, the saw cut will close up and bind the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastEditorUserId="2779" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T00:08:31.743" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T00:08:31.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5068" CreationDate="2016-12-05T00:32:17.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do I really have to take apart tge gun? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not between coats no, but you should be doing a complete stripdown and thorough cleaning after each spraying session in case that's not already part of your routine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How do I keep the spray gun usable between lacquer coats. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shoot straight thinners/solvent through the gun between coats to flush out the system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spraying through with the appropriate solvent is fairly standard practice when spraying any fast-drying paint or coating through a gun with any fine tolerances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to do this is if you have a spare paint cup or bottle that you can swap in, but if you don't you'll have to empty the diluted lacquer from the gun's receptacle to another container*, rinse, then fill with some solvent and shoot through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the problem is mostly at the tip of the nozzle you can sometimes get away with just brushing this using a stiffish brush wet with your solvent (be very careful if there is a projecting needle), then shooting just air through the gun to flush the nozzle. Repeating this once or twice gets most nozzles clean enough that they'll stay clear for the next coat but it depends on the equipment, and without any details of what you're using I can only guess at whether this might work with your gun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Never return it to the original container. Use something with a lid to prevent evaporation, and make sure it's spotlessly clean so you don't contaminate the lacquer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T00:32:17.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5079" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5080" CreationDate="2016-12-05T01:11:38.713" Score="1" ViewCount="326" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a wood balance beam for my daughter out of a fir 4x4 and some compression joints. Which direction should the grain be? Should the grain run parallel or perpendicular to the top of the beam?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2739" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T01:34:45.220" Title="For a kid's balance beam, which way should the grain face?" Tags="|strength|weight-capacity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5079" CreationDate="2016-12-05T01:34:45.220" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want the grain/growth lines to be oriented vertically to maximize strength.  Most 4x4 posts will have curved annual growth lines.  Choose the orientation that is most vertical.  As a caution, note that professional balance beams are made from laminated wood and are much deeper than the 3 1/2&quot; in a 4x4 post.  If your daughter is going to do any gymnastics on the beam a pine 4x4 may not be rigid enough especially if you make it any longer than 8'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T01:34:45.220" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5075" CreationDate="2016-12-05T02:21:59.023" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use your drill. You'll need a bit whose size is the same as the diameter of the inner curve you want to cut. Clamp your dowel stock firmly, position the drill so the outer edge of the bit is at the spot you want the curve to be, and drill. Clean up the cut, if needed, with some sandpaper wrapped around another dowel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @Graphus mentioned in a comment, the best way to secure the dowel is in a v-notch, which you can make easily with scrap wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ML2FY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ML2FY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;v-notch&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a saw, two scrap pieces of wood with a small gap between them will also work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will be easier on a drill press, of course, and may be easier with a forstner bit. You'll get better results if you cut to length after. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nick Ferry has a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VaM-0NlodDI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube video&lt;/a&gt; showing this process, which he used to make some drawer pulls. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastEditorUserId="2524" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T15:38:43.293" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T15:38:43.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5070" CreationDate="2016-12-05T10:14:58.420" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I plan on using 3/4 plywood (.706 or so) with 3/8&quot; dowels and some pocket screws (as well as titebond). I don't want to over or under engineer it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually you should seek to over-engineer this, or at least err on the side of stronger than you think you need, because it can't hurt given the dynamic forces this might be subjected to over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One key thing separate from the construction methodology is to make sure it's as rigid as possible to begin with because the least amount of play will put great stress on all the glue joints (which won't be as strong as you'd like because this is plywood), all the fasteners and on the dowels. So after it's put together you want it stiff enough that no racking &lt;em&gt;at all&lt;/em&gt; occurs when you push, pull or twist it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Corner glue blocks (either triangular or square in section) as you're considering are an excellent way of strengthening plywood constructions like this so very good idea to include some. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were just making a simple box (something like a blanket chest), the difference in rigidity before you put on the reinforcing blocks and after is like night and day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both glueing and screwing is advisable but note that for best strength you should screw through the ply into the block, not screw the block to the plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My question is, am I missing something that could strength the whole assembly? Will what I have planned be good enough? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think what you have planned would be good enough. But as I say it can't hurt to go stronger if you can identify weak spots. You only need to increase strength a small amount in key areas to greatly increase the strength of the overall structure because once assembled all joints mutually support the overall shape as in most furniture (where individual joints can be so-so but all together produce a very strong piece).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Didn't want to user metal 90 degree connectors cuz of the sharp edges but I COULD put them out of reach for the children.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a big fan of these because of their strength, even though they are ugly. For this application their edges and corners are a bit of a worry of course. Probably &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; way to address that would be to mortise them into the plywood like butt hinges are. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively you could round over all the corners and arrises, which is easily done with a metal file as the brackets are only mild steel in most cases, which any decent metalworking file won't have any trouble with. I'd judge this would take less than 10 minutes for a set of four, but naturally it will remove any anti-rust plating they might have from the areas you work*. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*This isn't a big deal in a lot of interior applications and even if they do begin to rust slightly I can promise it won't progress far enough to undermine their strength within the lifetime of the bed. Even in an unheated garage in a damp climate it might take decades for that kind of rusting to weaken a bracket like this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T10:14:58.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5069" CreationDate="2016-12-05T18:49:35.907" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For flat blades (chisel, plane) you're going to struggle getting to a fine finish. Most sand-paper sharpening systems have you placing the paper on glass or granite, so as to have a dead-flat reference plate. The metal plate inside a belt-sander is not likely to be flat enough for sharpening. The flexible pad in a random-orbit sander will certainly not be flat or rigid enough to give you a flat edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, a belt sander is great for rough-shaping or re-shaping a blade, say if you need to get past a big nick in the edge. It is only effective for the roughest work though, after which you'll need another more precise sharpening method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turning tools and knife blades have their own set of rules and requirements, which I am not qualified to answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1281" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T18:49:35.907" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5084" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5086" CreationDate="2016-12-05T19:53:47.203" Score="3" ViewCount="2640" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a freshly cut slice of a big tree trunk from my friend. Thinking of using it as a table. Sanding it down etc. Now I know there's all the drying etc to consider, but the first thing I need to know before I even take this home into my house is: is the bark/tree slice a risk to bugs damaging other furniture/things?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did some research and one SE post (&lt;a href=&quot;https://diy.stackexchange.com/a/14371/32148&quot;&gt;https://diy.stackexchange.com/a/14371/32148&lt;/a&gt;) said certain beetles like power post beetles live and lay their eggs in the bark. Is this true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there other things I need to consider/treat it with?&#xA;I'm wondering whether I should remove the bark, to be on the safe side from any bugs infesting my new apartment/furniture, but he bark looks really nice! (Yes, the slice in the photo is currently indoors but at the office, as my friend dropped it off at the office)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ToVsM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ToVsM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;the freshly cut free trunk slice&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3013" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:22:17.110" LastActivityDate="2019-05-05T22:56:32.917" Title="Is it safe to keep the bark on a fresh/green slice of tree trunk?" Tags="|wood|furniture|green-wood|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5084" CreationDate="2016-12-05T20:51:53.990" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off the bad news, that's almost certain to crack on you as it dries out. You might get lucky in which case you dodged a bullet, but the wood already has natural defects radiating from the centre and it is from there that many natural cracks arise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To help lessen the risk of cracking the first thing you should do when you get it home is coat the flats with something to slow moisture loss. And the best thing you could use for this is melted wax. Doesn't matter how you get it on there, just apply it in a thick layer to both sides (one side at a time will keep the mess to a minimum). I wouldn't use a brush for this because it might be impossible to clean the wax residue from the brush, so improvise something else — a wad of paper towel held in tongs will work perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's very difficult (sometimes impossible) to preserve the bark on wood. It depends on many factors, the species being one of the major ones, but there is a lot of variation possible even with one type of tree. As a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; rough rule of thumb the thicker the bark the more likely it is that it'll want to flake off or crumble. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is safest to remove it now because of the risk of wood-boring insects, but some people do retain the bark on this type of thing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T20:51:53.990" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5087" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5088" CreationDate="2016-12-06T04:25:58.540" Score="1" ViewCount="281" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've turned a recycled piece of canadian oregon &amp;amp; a recylced piece of australian messmate into an end-grain chopping board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I've got minor concerns about two items on the end product that I was hoping for some help with...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There is something which I think is sap/resin. Is this a bad thing? I understand that somebody might - whilst cutting into the board - cut into the resin. Is that bad? Is it poisonous?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5odHX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Note that I&amp;#39;m not even 100% sure if that&amp;#39;s some form of sap/resin or if it is something else...&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5odHX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; title=&quot;Note that I&amp;#39;m not even 100% sure if that&amp;#39;s some form of sap/resin or if it is something else...&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The boards used to have nails in them. They've all been pulled out now, but is it bad that they used to have nails in them? I mean, if the nails had been rusty - as an example - would any leftover embedded rust be something that is bad to have on the board?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that in the above picture, that is the side of the board, and it isn't finished yet... Still need to plane down the top of the board and trim up the sides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3006" LastEditorUserId="2524" LastEditDate="2018-09-05T12:51:13.343" LastActivityDate="2018-09-05T12:51:13.343" Title="Is this resin &amp; nail hole a Bad Thing for a chopping board?" Tags="|end-grain|nails|cutting-board|sap|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5087" CreationDate="2016-12-06T08:33:06.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The resin pockets &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; not be an issue. The resins from some trees such as pine are commonly eaten (or made into hot drinks) in certain parts of the world, that's how non-toxic it can be. But without specific info on the exact species you're using I don't think you should make any assumptions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Canadian oregon&quot; is better known to much of the rest of the world as Douglas fir by the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nail holes I would be very concerned by personally, in particular because you're using recycled wood. The obvious first worry is they are major voids in the wood which could harbour food waste and breed bacteria. But on top of this you can't know what might have gotten into a nail hole before the wood came into your possession. You're going to have to make a judgement call on whether you think it's worth the risk. Myself, if I was dead set on using the wood I would drill out the nail holes to expose clean wood, then fill them. YMMV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say you still need to plane the top of the board, just in case you were planning on sending this through a planer/thicknesser be &lt;em&gt;extremely&lt;/em&gt; careful. Although people do get away with this (using certain pieces of hardware, not all planers are made equal) other people have had disastrous accidents trying this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If something goes wrong the least you can expect is the board being heavily damaged or broken apart, sending pieces of it flying out of the back of the machine at high speed. Although that gives the potential for personal injury this might give you more pause — &lt;em&gt;there's a chance of your planer being destroyed by the shrapnel&lt;/em&gt;. So this is not a risk to take lightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T08:33:06.107" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5089" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-06T11:53:08.097" Score="10" ViewCount="15311" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a &lt;em&gt;power&lt;/em&gt; miter saw, it came with a default blade which is cool, but has too little teeth and the cut is not very clean. I want to buy another blade with more teeth, and I was offered a blade for aluminium which has almost twice as many teeth, but I'm not sure if I'm going to have unexpected problems with it down the road?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, is it a good idea to use blade for aluminium to cut wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2263" LastEditorUserId="2263" LastEditDate="2016-12-06T14:57:31.723" LastActivityDate="2019-03-26T21:01:02.690" Title="Can I cut wood with a blade for aluminium?" Tags="|miter-saw|blade|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5089" CreationDate="2016-12-06T12:57:59.877" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done this successfully with my hand mitre saw, though the cut may not be as much cleaner (than with the blade you have) as you expect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I often use metal-cutting blades for wood on my jigsaw. On melamine-coated chipboard you get a much nicer cut than with the finest wood blades I can easily buy (which aren't very fine). Blades for metal also seem to stay sharp longer when working with chipboard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both cases you have to watch out for clogging. This would be even more important with a power mitre saw as the blade could overheat very quickly with a clogged blade. You would also have to take it easy against jamming. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2016-12-22T16:19:35.793" LastActivityDate="2016-12-22T16:19:35.793" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5091" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-07T03:40:11.933" Score="1" ViewCount="745" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have built a couple floating beds now and assembly and disassembly is very time consuming. I've tried researching possible braces to allow the person who is assembling the frame the quickly connect/disconnect the middle braces. Currently the middle 2x4 boards are screwed into to outer frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The boards need to be completely secured due to the fact that the top frame is sitting on top of a smaller frame so it appears to be floating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my mind I've always pictured a 2x4 connector that you slide the board into and then close the top so you can't pull it back up. It would have one on each side of the each middle support braces. I just can't find anything similar with my research. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6BAQ4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3022" LastEditorUserId="3022" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T19:11:18.397" LastActivityDate="2016-12-08T11:12:53.300" Title="How might I design a &quot;quick-breakdown&quot; feature to allow easy assembly and disassembly of this floating beds frame supports?" Tags="|wood|furniture|strength|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5084" CreationDate="2016-12-07T12:25:10.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your picture looks like Douglas fir bark.  I have built 3 tables with Doug fir bark with great success.  I simply air dryer the slabs to 15 percent and handled the wood very gently as the bark will separate easily when it is dry.  I used resin to finish the top as it helped with the bark staying on good.  Tables in use for over 3 years with no problem.  Doug fir sometimes has pitch pockets that bleed which is a bigger problem.  Never had any issue with bugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3015" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T12:25:10.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5093" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-07T12:43:39.557" Score="1" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6UIxu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pine wood, miniwax pre conditioner, Miniwax honey stain&#xA;  This has not been poly'd yet. &#xA;     At this stage, I made sure I wad pretty careful and sanded really well.  I also made sure that glue was wiped up before it dried.    I stained it twice with roughly 3.5 hours in between with no fix.  The pic shows only the first coat.    Any guesses what caused this and how to fix it.  I appreciate it. Thx&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3024" LastEditorUserId="3024" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T13:09:49.573" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T17:04:04.800" Title="This was my first attempt to making a coffee table. I have some issues where stain didnt take" Tags="|joinery|wood|staining|pine|gluing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5084" CreationDate="2016-12-07T12:53:48.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Remove the bark.  I have heard so many people complain after the table is finished and within a yrs time they are gluing pieces of bark back on only to have it break off again.    Sometimes the bark gets stepped on and then it is impossible to get it back on.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;   It will look nice even without the bark on it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3024" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T12:53:48.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5096" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-07T15:12:10.533" Score="2" ViewCount="459" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1&quot;x8&quot;x3' solid composite board that I need to cut diagonally through the 1&quot; dimension to compensate for an unlevel underlying surface. Is there any way to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3025" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T19:50:39.317" LastActivityDate="2016-12-08T17:45:24.230" Title="Make one end of a board thicker than the other?" Tags="|sanding|cutting|plane|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5093" CreationDate="2016-12-07T17:04:04.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any guesses what caused this &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;99.9% certain it's glue residue as you already suspected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can remove excess glue basically at three stages, almost immediately when it's fully liquid, after it has gone off a bit and is sort of rubbery and much later after full hardening. IMO the first and third options are the best, but plenty of people do it the second way and seem to get on well with it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wipe up glue wet it's vitally important to be thorough and methodical &lt;em&gt;and go over any areas more than once&lt;/em&gt;. Also use warm water if it's available as it helps a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've already found one of the previous Q&amp;amp;As that covers this topic but I'll link to it here for future searchers, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1368/glue-spots-under-stain&quot;&gt;Glue spots under stain&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;how to fix it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry to say but the only way to properly fix this this sort of thing is to go back to the beginning. Remove enough from the surface ply planing, sanding or scraping (or using any combination of the three) that you get down to bare wood and then re-colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try to 'spot' lighter areas like this, basically touch them up with a fine brush using a coloured varnish&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, coloured or tinted shellac, tinted lacquer, or thinned oil paints, but it's challenging to make this sort of touch up blend seamlessly in terms of colour, and also very difficult not to end up with the retouches being slightly raised which you can often clearly make out in the reflections from the surface even after a few coats of finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;'Previewing' stain coverage&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can find whether you'vee accidentally missed some glue during cleanup before applying stain by wiping the wood with mineral spirits/white spirit. Any areas with a smear of glue&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; will show up pale, with the unaffected wood going darker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do this and see no problems wait for the spirits to fully evaporate before continuing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; This includes &quot;gel stain&quot; which is a coloured varnish with a gelled consistency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Or where glue has soaked into the surface and you haven't scraped or sanded enough to get beneath it &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T17:04:04.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5091" CreationDate="2016-12-07T17:22:33.927" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For starters I would look into half lapping the interior cross members. This way you can have just two supports running the length of the bed, as opposed to ten small pieces running between each cross support. This eliminates any need for screws in your interior cross member supports. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is very much like building a torsion box. I would also recommend switching to 3/4&quot; plywood, which will lighten it up, while giving you more strength at the half laps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you just need to attach that outside perimeter of the frame.These can still be screwed on if desired, but I would recommend some type of hardware connection, both for strength, and to keep all fasteners inside the frame out of view. L-brackets, joist hangers, your choice really.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4n0w9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4n0w9.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastEditorUserId="2753" LastEditDate="2016-12-08T11:12:53.300" LastActivityDate="2016-12-08T11:12:53.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5096" CreationDate="2016-12-07T19:45:57.553" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not familiar with the PVC board material you're using but if it is uniform throughout and cuts like wood this is doable using a hand plane. Ideally you'd want to use one with a cambered iron (a slight radius on the cutting edge) to be able to remove material fairly quickly, but without that I would start with power tools and then do the final bit using the plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So assuming you don't have a plane fitted with a cambered iron you could use the belt sander to hog off the bulk of the material (fitted with a fresh, very coarse belt in case that's not obvious), then dust off well and switch to the plane near the end to help not overshooting the mark. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option that I would give serious consideration to is working on the underfloor plywood rather than the AZEK. You could work the floor in place (again with the belt sander) checking periodically by putting the AZEK down and seeing how it lays. The plywood will get chewed up a bit no matter what angle you sand it and it will look ugly as hell, but it'll be flat enough for this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't visualise any way you could jig this or use guides, no matter which option you go with. So either way it would be vital to stop work periodically and check fit as you go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T19:45:57.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5096" CreationDate="2016-12-07T21:34:01.007" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way to do this would be to put it on a slanted sled and run it through a planer repeatedly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How you make the slanted sled is up to you.  I would consider cutting a series of wedges from plywood and gluing them to a flat piece of plywood.  You could also use shims (like for hanging a door) and nail them down to a piece of plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of how you build the sled make sure that the piece you're planing is fastened securely to it (being careful not to allow your planer to hit any metal fasteners).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2016-12-08T16:32:57.897" LastActivityDate="2016-12-08T16:32:57.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="756" CreationDate="2016-12-08T00:40:58.037" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're using MDF spray it with epoxy primer blocks sand it and shoot it with black acrylic enamel if it doesn't appear flat enough blocks and sand it with 320 grit sandpaper shoot it again then buff it this is far easier and faster I restore old wood boats&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3030" LastActivityDate="2016-12-08T00:40:58.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5102" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5107" CreationDate="2016-12-08T04:41:14.987" Score="3" ViewCount="1966" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a box with 1/2&quot; thick sides. One face of the box has to (occasionally) be removable, so I'm intending to use threaded inserts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The face of the box (and the edges it aligns to) hasn't been drilled yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I ensure that the holes in the face align with the threaded inserts? I have the usual shop tools - drill press, etc., plus the tool to insert the threaded inserts. Getting the inserts in straight isn't a problem - getting them lined up is the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1889" LastActivityDate="2016-12-08T17:58:00.047" Title="How do I align threaded inserts" Tags="|technique|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5102" CreationDate="2016-12-08T04:54:55.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a transfer punch that fits snugly through the insert (assuming it's in a through-hole), that will get you pretty darn close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uEqpH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uEqpH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, transfer screws are an option, although perhaps fewer folks have those handy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I3H0i.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I3H0i.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a pinch you can make some of your own out of threaded rod or a bolt by chucking it up in your drill press and working carefully with a file to give it a point, then cutting the end off with a few (4-6) threads. You'll learn why the ones you buy have the hex section on them when you're working to get them out :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2016-12-08T04:54:55.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4696" CreationDate="2016-12-08T06:17:08.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While waiting is better, yes, you can apply oil based finishes (as well as water based finishes) to wet wood. Some folks like to wet wood for applying water based stains for evenness of application. Finishes are a moisture barrier which slows the movement of moisture but will not 'trap' the moisture in the wood forever. Since you are discussing plywood, the issue of swelling and shrinking due to moisture is minimized as well due to the cross grain construction of plies. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Folks use heat and increased air flow to aid drying as well. You can use even volatile solvents to slightly accelerate the evaporation of moisture. (Please use common sense and reasonable safety measures.)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, I will note that the harder the finish, the more likely side effects like slight crazing or a few cracks due to shrinking/swelling. Also note, that wood stored outside will have a higher moisture content in any case than wood stored inside. Another issue, is make sure the wood is clean; dirt and gunk of all sorts will lead to heartache when trapped under a finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastActivityDate="2016-12-08T06:17:08.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4863" CreationDate="2016-12-08T06:25:21.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, thread rod will work and similar 'metal' work is, indeed, found on older stools here and there. Chris Schwartz and others claim that the stretchers are not even needed in some cases (see The Anarchist's Design Book by Schwartz for details).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastActivityDate="2016-12-08T06:25:21.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4868" CreationDate="2016-12-08T06:39:10.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any wood would serve, but selecting straight tight grain wood, like maple, would serve better. As mentioned before, the technique is create a joint and shape it afterwards to perfect outside curves. The inside curve can be done via a drill press and a correct forstner bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible to cut curved joints together if the curves match and it is easy to template symmetrical curved pieces by simply folding a piece of paper diagonally and cutting the folded paper and then unfold to see the corner.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastActivityDate="2016-12-08T06:39:10.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5102" CreationDate="2016-12-08T08:50:07.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do this in two ways that I can think of. Actually three, since you could do this in the most basic way of all — using standard marking procedures if you're careful, just as dowel holes used to be done back in the old days (and they didn't even have the benefit of through holes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second is to drill a small pilot hole into the face piece, position it against the sides of the box (much as when transferring marks from tail board to pin board when dovetailing) and then push the drill bit or a matching scratch awl/ice pick through that pilot hole until it makes a definite mark in the other piece of wood. This is now perfectly in line with the existing hole, you then drill the holes for the threaded inserts as normal using these reference holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whichever of these two options you were using once you have your marks it's vital to have no shift at all during the drilling operation, so workpieces must be firmly clamped up and ideally use a drill press/bench drill for the drilling. This &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be done using a hand-held power drill or even a hand drill of some sort if you use a jig of some kind to ensure the drill is held perfectly square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Third option, no threaded inserts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Fit the front to the three-sided box and clamp up. Drill the front boards and the side boards in a single operation, then drill, ream out, sand or file the holes in the front boards so they just give clearance to the threads on the bolt or screw you'll be using to hold it in place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now position the front board and clamp it in place (you're using its holes as guides for the next operation) and thread the holes in the sides &lt;em&gt;using the bolt/screw itself&lt;/em&gt;. You can force them in if the threads are not too coarse and the wood isn't too hard, or &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1716/how-can-you-make-a-regular-screw-into-a-self-tapping-screw/1735#1735&quot;&gt;modify the bolt or screw to be self-tapping&lt;/a&gt; if you prefer (the safer option). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case it's worth squeezing the wood with a clamp to help prevent it splitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Threading made directly in wood by either method can be surprisingly robust and last years of regular use, particularly in harder woods that aren't too brittle. On softer woods the threading can be greatly strengthened by running some thin superglue into the hole after the threads are formed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Chuck the rod (or a bolt with the head cut off) into a drill and run it, rotating, against a coarse belt sander or grinder wheel. A sharp point that should be perfectly aligned with the centre line of the threaded rod will be created in a surprisingly short time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-12-08T08:50:07.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5102" CreationDate="2016-12-08T16:45:07.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simplest way to do this is to clamp the face of the box securely in place in the desired assembled position. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then drill the hole for the threaded insert through the face and into the side panels, you can just keep inserting/screwing the insert past the face panel until it reaches the final destination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your bolt wont have a snug fit in the face panel because you will now have some clearance between the bolt and the wall of the drilled hole. But if it is a countersunk bolt/screw or something similar, you wont notice any alignment issues when reattaching the face panel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="453" LastActivityDate="2016-12-08T16:45:07.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="67" CreationDate="2016-12-08T17:11:16.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look at what firearms collectors do to protect guns from rust.  They are fanatical about rust prevention.  And they have developed a series of countermeasures to protect their gun metal (which is often installed in very high grade wood stocks):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;First, immediately after use always apply a &lt;strong&gt;light protective coating&lt;/strong&gt; to steel.  WD-40 does not cut it.  There are a wide array of higher-tech protective lubricants for firearms, and any will be fine for tool steel.  These range from oils to silicones, and from sprays to wipes.  (Update: Per comments, it sounds like silicone-based coatings should be avoided because undetectable amounts that get on wood can interfere with subsequent finishes!)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For long-term storage supplement the lubricant with a &lt;strong&gt;rust inhibitor&lt;/strong&gt;.  These are available as sprays for direct application, or impregnated paper or cloth to add to storage containers where there is not much airflow.  (They are volatile, so if the tool is stored in the open these will eventually evaporate.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Keep relative humidity low&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;ndash; never above 40%.  One way to do this is to store your tools in a room with a dehumidifier.  Another is to dehumidify the storage container.  There are desiccant systems designed for gun safes with built-in capacity indicators and plug-in rechargers.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Avoid condensing conditions&lt;/strong&gt;.  This would be where the temperature in the storage area is allowed to vary widely: When air temperature increases significantly, then the relatively cold metal will attract condensation before it warms up.  One way to avoid this is to keep the tools in a heated container.  For example, it is common to leave a 20W light or other device on at the bottom of a gun safe.  (Safes usually aren't airtight, but this ensures that the contents of the safe will always be a little warmer than the surrounding air.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastEditorUserId="94" LastEditDate="2016-12-09T13:57:35.317" LastActivityDate="2016-12-09T13:57:35.317" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5096" CreationDate="2016-12-08T17:45:24.230" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may be overthinking this. For flooring, framing, and other larger-scale applications, it is much simpler to just shim components into alignment rather than planing the outermost component to an inconsistent thickness in order to mate with the underlying structure. Just shim it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2016-12-08T17:45:24.230" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5102" CreationDate="2016-12-08T17:58:00.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Create a template or guide that registers at the proper location on both parts; for example, you could use a shelf pin jig or doweling jig depending on the dimensions and orientation of your parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Graphus hinted, you could also put a dowel center in the hole for the threaded insert and press the two parts together to transfer the location from the first part to its mating part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2016-12-08T17:58:00.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5112" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5116" CreationDate="2016-12-09T16:48:02.370" Score="10" ViewCount="26093" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pocket Hole jig is really expensive for me and I don't plan to buy one right away. So, as a newbie I was searching for any alternative. &#xA;I have seen many videos and stuff over the net but as a fresher woodworker &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;it would be better with some professional advice so that I could build one of my own.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help or reference is appreciated&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tools I have right now : Drill machine, saw, set squares, clamps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3033" LastEditorUserId="3033" LastEditDate="2016-12-16T06:15:55.963" LastActivityDate="2022-12-28T10:22:23.333" Title="Substitute for Pocket Hole Jig?" Tags="|joinery|tools|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5113" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-09T22:13:44.590" Score="8" ViewCount="719" Body="&lt;p&gt;There’s a wooden dowel in which I will put ties on. Something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CEU18.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CEU18.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I add a grip to the wooden dowels so the ties would stay on firmly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3034" LastActivityDate="2016-12-11T04:18:59.623" Title="What can I put on a wooden dowel to have a good grip?" Tags="|finishing|technique|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="768" CreationDate="2016-12-09T22:46:26.123" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have much experience with a dust collector, but I recently switched to one after extensive use of a Shop-vac and here's what I discovered:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shop-vac&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had purchased the Shop-vac 14-Gallon 5.5-Peak-HP Shop Vacuum, Model # 9441411 from Lowes.  I quickly discovered the necessity for a dust separator since using it directly for woodworking will quickly clog the filter and using it without a filter is a bad idea since it can damage the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried a few DIY separator options, such as the Thien-baffle design, but I didn't have good results.  In hindsight, I think the issue was not getting an &lt;strong&gt;air-tight seal&lt;/strong&gt; on the separator and without one, none of them will work correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I finally gave in and bought the Oneida Dust Deputy.  I tried a Rubbermaid trash can, but the vacuum caused it to collapse in on itself.  I eventually found a 55 gallon drum with a lid for sale on Craigslist and that became my container with the Dust Deputy attached.  I use a thickness plainer, so the container had to be large, otherwise I would have to stop every few minutes to empty a small one.  With the Dust Deputy, the Shop-Vac stayed clean just as long as the dust separator container didn't get too full.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Shop-vac worked great for a while, however it recently died on me.  The motor isn't serviceable, so you have to purchase a whole new Shop-vac when it dies.  I don't feel like I got enough use out of it before it failed, so I didn't want to go that route again.  I purchased the portable dust collector from Harbor Freight and was very impressed how much quieter it was.  The motor looks like it's a lot more durable.  The problem is it has 4-inch inlets vs the 2-1/2 inches the Shop-vac uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when I tried retrofitting the dust collector to 2-1/2 inches for the Dust Deputy, I lost too much CFM to where it was useless.  Oneida makes a &quot;Super&quot; Dust Deputy, however this is substantially more expensive.  The new 4 inch diameter hoses are an additional expense and cost more than the 2-1/2 inch one for the Shop-vac.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the biggest differences I see so far are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Shop-vac is cheaper, however it may not hold up to extended run times such as needed by a dust collection system.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cyclone separator is cheaper for 2-1/2&quot; hoses, such as those with the larger Shop-vacs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The dust collectors are much quieter and will likely be more durable for long-term use, however they cost more in pretty much every aspect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question I faced was &quot;Do I want to have to keep buying Shop-vacs when one dies or pay a little more and get a proper machine that won't need replacing near as often?&quot;.  I opted for the latter, however I will forewarn you that the cost of doing so will be quite a bit higher, especially if you're wanting a very efficient separator stage.  And I highly suggest factoring in a dust separator stage, which I've found the Dust Deputy to be the most efficient one so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3035" LastActivityDate="2016-12-09T22:46:26.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5112" CreationDate="2016-12-09T23:14:34.207" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm glad someone finally asked a Question about alternatives to these jigs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the US at least, and probably in other parts of the world by now, pocket holes have become synonymous with Kreg. While they make good products that work exactly the way you'd hope, they can be expensive and their dominance of the market has led to a pervading belief among new woodworkers that the &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; way to do pocket holes is with a commercial jig when in fact pocket-screw joinery pre-dates the foundation of the Kreg company by several centuries. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes centuries, this isn't a new method at all. It's just that the technique was used very selectively back when joinery was all made by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Working freehand&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The simplest way to do this is probably the historical way, using only one gouge and a drill, in some cases fitted with only a single bit. There can be no jigging involved, just careful judgement of the correct screwing angle. Of course a bevel gauge can be used to help reference the angle or if preferred, a very basic jig (e.g. a wedge of wood) can be fashioned to ensure consistent results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little more about the history and alternative methods here:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/editors-blog/pocket-screws-with-fine-furniture&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pocket Screws with Fine Furniture&lt;/a&gt; by Glen D. Huey on Popular Woodworking.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These days the simplest non-jigged method is probably to use just a drill, sometimes using multiple bits to form the various holes needed — a face hole (using a Forstner or sawtooth bit), the clearance hole in the first piece (this goes into the side of the hole formed by the Forstner) and the pilot hole in the adjacent piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/topics/25060&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;No-Jig Pocket Holes&lt;/a&gt; on Lumberjocks.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/joinery/pocket-hole-joinery&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pocket-Hole Joinery&lt;/a&gt; on WoodMagazine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Building your own jig&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Of course if you want to do this with a jig then one can be made and there are a few types. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Building a jig for this can be a very simple operation, requiring no more than a few minutes of work if you're fast (but take as long as you need to make it right). Here's one of the simplest types, originally published as a reader's tip on Fine Woodworking:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L9saq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L9saq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Homemade pocket-hole jig&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other examples:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Pocket-Hole-Jig/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;DIY Pocket Hole Jig&lt;/a&gt; on Instructables.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-aTqITfahVw&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;DIY Pocket Hole Jig&lt;/a&gt; from CrazyRussianWoodShop on YouTube.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bobsplans.com/FreeJigPlans/PocketHoleJig/PocketHoleJig.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pocket Hole Jig Plans&lt;/a&gt; on BobsPlans.com (with free PDF download).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Metal inserts (bushings) can be glued in place to extend the life of any wooden drilling jig, but even without those you can expect a lot of use before wear makes a jig such as this inaccurate enough that you have to discard it, even if made from pine or another soft wood. If made from a strong hardwood like oak or maple I think you can realistically expect it to last for a few years of regular use if you're careful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would fit metal inserts if you'll be using your jig very frequently, or alternatively make yourself three or four of the all-wood type in one go so that as soon as one wears out you can throw it away and immediately swap in a replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also see some related previous Q&amp;amp;As:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1349/when-are-pocket-holes-an-appropriate-joinery-technique&quot;&gt;When are pocket holes an appropriate joinery technique?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1708/what-alternatives-are-there-for-pocket-screws&quot;&gt;What alternatives are there for pocket screws?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-12-09T23:14:34.207" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5113" CreationDate="2016-12-10T05:41:33.630" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Rubber tubing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ever replaced a bicycle inner tube and wonder what to do with it? Or other tire tubes or a snow tube that broke? I should think that scraps of tubing would create enough friction to stop them from sliding off. You would not need to much and small scraps can be glue or have small staples hold them in place. Some inner tubes have a coating on the inside, like functioning as a sealant, so you would need to place this inside in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Staples might not be ideal since it risks having material get caught or tear. If it is small enough and placed on the bottom of the rung, where ties wont likely touch, this might not be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some glue from a hot glue gun would help hold it in place easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rubber in general is my suggestion. It would also be easy to experiment without causing damage to the hangar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2016-12-10T05:41:33.630" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5113" CreationDate="2016-12-10T17:22:29.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first thought is to just put a bead of hot glue along the top of the dowel. Let it dry, and it will provide enough friction to keep the ties in place. You may experiment with the amount of glue needed, as several small dots might be better than a single long bead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastActivityDate="2016-12-10T17:22:29.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5113" CreationDate="2016-12-10T18:32:57.003" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it wasn't intended for clothing, I'd suggest sandpaper or stair-tred grip tape -- but those are too aggressive for this application. (Great for jigs, though )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-12-10T18:32:57.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5113" CreationDate="2016-12-10T21:39:20.050" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first instinct is to try plasti-dip. You can get it in brush on or spray on. I made a wooden multi-guitar stand many years ago, and it worked great to protect the guitars and keep them from slipping at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://plastidip.com/our-products/plasti-dip/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Plasti Dip&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastActivityDate="2016-12-10T21:39:20.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5089" CreationDate="2016-12-11T01:41:20.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cannot count how much aluminum over the years I have cut with my Hitachi slide compound and a carbide blade that stayed on for a long time after using it to cut trim. No it did not trash the blade or dull it enough to make a bad cut, although the blade did eventually get dull over time but not from the aluminum in one sitting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer the question, the saw I referred to above is my trim saw. It is used primarily on wood or MDF trim exclusively, with the exception of the need to cut aluminum on occasion. Aluminum stair balusters seems to be the most of what I come across as of late.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to be really careful when cutting. The cut off piece may move toward the spinning blade and throw it with terrible force. I reduce this problem by screwing a wood fence over the stock fence and cut it through to make a zero clearance fence. This way the loose piece will not roll or move to be thrown by the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding tooth count, a finer tooth blade is better, but I have used general purpose 24 tooth blades to cut aluminum. The cut needs to be made slowly, and the finished piece held firmly or clamped in. I usually hold it, although small pieces that put my fingers unreasonably close to the blade, I have used a clamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastEditorUserId="130" LastEditDate="2016-12-13T04:07:01.710" LastActivityDate="2016-12-13T04:07:01.710" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5113" CreationDate="2016-12-11T04:18:59.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have access to one end of the tube, put some clear heatshrink on it. The stuff that shrinks 3:1 would do it. Try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.heatshrink.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.heatshrink.com/&lt;/a&gt; - No connection, just a satisfied customer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1889" LastActivityDate="2016-12-11T04:18:59.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="67" CreationDate="2016-12-12T14:55:07.260" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;the first step in rust prevention is keeping tools clean. As clean as possible, at the very least preventing dust/wood particles from accumulating. Wood retains moisture, and moisture close to metal will eventually work its way through all organic coatings. It's for this reason that I keep all my handtools in a cabinet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2016-12-12T14:55:07.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="67" CreationDate="2016-12-13T14:52:40.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use a wax/oil as others have suggested (Lie-Nielsen sells Jojoba oil that seems to work well).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also recommend using a reusable &lt;a href=&quot;https://smile.amazon.com/Indicating-Desiccant-Silica-Canister-Pelican/dp/B01IJS06RQ?sa-no-redirect=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;silica gel canister&lt;/a&gt;. That will pull the moisture out of the air, keeping your toolbox/toolchest/toolcabinet dry. Once the silica gel balls in the canister turn orange, just pop it in the oven on low for a few hours to dry it out. I have had really good luck with these (you can also collect and use the silica gel &quot;do not eat&quot; packets that come in some packaged food (although these can't be regenerated as far as I know).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2867" LastActivityDate="2016-12-13T14:52:40.640" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5127" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-13T21:49:15.327" Score="2" ViewCount="160" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may be bad form to ask for a product recommendation here, but it's tough to do web searches for these things. Apologies if this question is out-of-line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just picked-up a 3-jaw 3-3/8&quot; lathe chuck at a yard sale and it looks like it's in great shape. The problem is that it's got a 3/4x16tpi threaded hole and my lathe (a vintage 1950 Shopsmith 10ER) has a 5/8&quot; plain spindle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't seem to be able to find much in the way of spindle adapters with 3/4x16tpi outer threads, let alone with a 5/8 plain internal bore. Does such a beast exist? Or will I have to get two adapters:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5/8-plain to 1x8tpi&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1x8tpi to 3/4x16tpi&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That seems like a lot of hardware for a rather short spindle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3051" LastActivityDate="2017-01-31T13:35:17.733" Title="Does a 3/4x16tpi for a 5/8 plain spindle adapter exist?" Tags="|lathe|lathe-chuck|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5128" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5130" CreationDate="2016-12-14T17:58:10.740" Score="6" ViewCount="7170" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are making some wooden craft items as Christmas gifts.  They are small items (wood disks about 3/4&quot; thick and 4&quot; in diameter) that we've put two coats of spar varnish on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second coat of varnish (applied about 72 hours ago) seems to still be a bit soft / tacky (especially when two items are stacked / touching each other), and I'd like them to be fully cured and hard before shipping.  (I will wrap them individually in bubble wrap or similar when packed for shipping).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have been drying in relatively low humidity (Colorado), inside at approximately 70F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to speed the full-cure drying time of these items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it safe to &quot;bake&quot; these in an oven? Our oven's lowest temperature is 170 F, which seems like it could be a bit hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, could I place an electric space heater in the same vicinity as the items?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to speed the drying of these items? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3055" OwnerDisplayName="cale_b" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2019-01-07T14:39:48.897" LastActivityDate="2019-01-07T14:39:48.897" Title="Dry Spar Varnish in Oven? Or other methods to speed drying" Tags="|wood-drying|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5128" CreationDate="2016-12-14T18:16:24.953" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't tried any of these methods myself but the following is offered up from a quick &lt;a href=&quot;http://homeguides.sfgate.com/dry-tacky-varnish-75837.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;google search&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Reduce the humidity in the environment of the drying varnish by running a dehumidifier. Pointing a fan at the drying varnish may also help.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wipe the surface of the varnish lightly with a rag moistened with turpentine or mineral spirits. Don't rub the varnish, just wipe it lightly enough to remove the tackiness from the surface. Give the varnish another day or two under the breeze of a fan to cure.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Brush or spray a light coat of clear shellac on the surface if the varnish is still tacky after wiping it with a solvent. Shellac hardens by evaporation and doesn't have to cure. Use shellac only if the varnish has almost hardened but is still slightly tacky. Don't use it if the varnish is soft.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Strip the varnish if none of these strategies work. It's probably tacky because the wood wasn't properly cleaned before varnishing. Wash the wood with a wax-removing detergent after you've stripped the old varnish, sand it and apply a fresh coat.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Varnish will dry in two phases.  First the solvent, if any, must evaporate.  Then the product must cure.  The curing is a chemical reaction between the remaining materials of the varnish and/or the air.  Option 1 above helps with speeding up evaporation but offers no help in speeding up the curing time; instead recommending to remove the uncured portion or cover it up.  Both seem like poor options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chemical reactions can always be accelerated by increasing the temperature of the solution.  Your instinct to apply heat is correct but don't put it in the oven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3054" OwnerDisplayName="Preston S" LastActivityDate="2016-12-14T18:39:40.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5128" CreationDate="2016-12-15T00:09:38.627" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it safe to &quot;bake&quot; these in an oven? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not really, no. You wouldn't be the first person to try this and you might get away with it as some have in the past, but if it doesn't work as hoped it could lead to the only option being a complete strip and re-finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a potential health risk involved in doing this in the oven you cook in, but to focus on the woodwork you can't reliably do this in an oven with a minimum temperature of 170°F (77°C). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Warm is good, but that's a bit hot for safety. And in addition you can't be sure how hot the oven will get because most ovens don't hold at the set temperature the way we think — &quot;hold&quot; in this case being a misnomer since ovens don't do that at all. Instead they cycle on and off to &lt;em&gt;approximate&lt;/em&gt; the set temperature. Additionally the thermostats of ovens are infamous among cooks for being off (reportedly by as much as 50°F!) which with wood is all kinds of bad as the water in it will turn to steam and bubble through your finish. I've seen it happen and it ain't pretty!   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Or, could I place an electric space heater in the same vicinity as the items?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much better option. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What can I do to speed the drying of these items? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Increase air flow (to begin with to take away the evaporative portion of the varnish, after that oxygen is needed for the curing process to progress).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Increase temperature (both reactions proceed more quickly at higher temperatures).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Decrease humidity (water vapour can retard varnish drying and curing).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously that last one shouldn't be an issue for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the first one, in reality normal rates of air exchange for typical domestic interiors are enough for reliable varnish drying so the main thing to focus on is increasing the temperature. There is such a massive difference in varnish drying with only a 10° change in temperature just giving it a little boost should make a world of difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(I will wrap them individually in bubble wrap or similar when packed for shipping).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is the least tackiness still remaining it would be advisable not to put the bubble wrap directly in contact with the varnish. Instead cover the pieces in a smooth plastic (black refuse bags can work well) and then wrap in bubble wrap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For next time&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I can highly recommend thinning your varnish with between 25 and 50% additional spirits, turning it into 'wiping varnish'. This can be wiped on as the name suggests, or applied by brush or roller if preferred. Regardless of the application tool you then wipe away some or most of the excess. This builds a shiny finish much more slowly, but each coat is very much thinner so dries far more quickly and reliably than when the varnish is used at full strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-12-15T00:09:38.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5131" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-16T01:55:25.667" Score="5" ViewCount="3087" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to cut a log into about 2&quot; thick cross sections to make serving platters.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Can anyone please tell me what the best way is to get the smoothest/ cleanest cut?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I heard a chain saw, but is there some sort of guide that will help make clean cuts? &#xA;Is there a better saw to use than a chain saw? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3059" LastActivityDate="2016-12-16T14:28:21.200" Title="Best way to make cross section pieces out of 12&quot;-18&quot; diameter log" Tags="|cutting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5069" CreationDate="2016-12-16T03:32:09.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a bad answer by Stack Exchange standards, but since I just discovered someone had tried it... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finehomebuilding.com/2007/07/16/5-job-site-tips-and-time-savers-bench-vise-sharpening-and-power-tool-supports-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.finehomebuilding.com/2007/07/16/5-job-site-tips-and-time-savers-bench-vise-sharpening-and-power-tool-supports-2&lt;/a&gt; there is indeed a demo of a carpenter doing the rough grinding on a damaged chisel using a belt sander. Note that is only the rough shaping, taking out notches made by running the chisel into a nail; he moves to a 400/1200 diamond stone for actual sharpening and puts the final polish on the microbevel by stropping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One interesting trick there, which might not be a bad idea with other powered grinding: He actually keeps his fingers on the blade, an inch or so back, and quenches it in water whenever it starts getting too hot to hold. That guards against letting it get hot enough to lose its temper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He also points out that eye protection is essential, hearing protection is recommended, and you should make sure that if the blade catches it's thrown away from you rather than toward you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, yeah, apparently it can indeed be made to work as a grindstone if you're trying to recover a seriously abused blade and don't have a better alternative available. But it really is only suitable for grinding, not sharpening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good to know, for emergencies and &quot;jobsite repairs&quot;, but not recommended as a normal technique for fine woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-12-16T03:32:09.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5131" CreationDate="2016-12-16T09:03:01.860" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a better saw to use than a chain saw? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes most definitely. A chainsaw will do the cutting for sure, but the resulting cut surface will be a bit, ah, &lt;em&gt;rustic&lt;/em&gt;. Chainsaws have never been accused of producing particularly smooth/clean cuts :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very related previous Q&amp;amp;A: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1833/crosscutting-18-diameter-logs-by-hand&quot;&gt;Crosscutting 18&amp;quot; diameter logs by hand&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't mean you can't do the cutting using a chainsaw, it'll do the job very efficiently. But you do then need to smooth off the cut surface quite a bit to make it flat and smooth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You didn't ask about this but further processes are nearly always used to finish off rounds like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sanding&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Probably your best bet to flatten and smooth if you can get the chainsaw cut fairly even is with power sanding, maybe with a belt sander to begin with using a coarse grit, then switch to a finer belt. So you might start with 60 grit (possibly a little coarser) then move to 80 or 100.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you'd switch to a random-orbit sander to smooth off, e.g. using 100 then 150 then 220 paper, possibly finer depending on the surface quality you're going for*. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prepare yourself though, even with power sanders this can be quite a bit of work even with softer species — you're working an end-grain surface and end grain is the toughest part of the wood. If you're using a harder species, particularly a hard hardwood, this can be extremely tough going so you need patience and perseverance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Router&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you have a router flattening rough-sawn rounds is one of the things they can do brilliantly, using a simple homemade jig:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hYVfY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hYVfY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Router flattening slab&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way you really don't have to worry that much about how rough the chainsaw cut is since the router can easily tackle an unevenness of 1/2&quot; (13mm) or more, as appears was the case in the photo above. &lt;strong&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt;: you wouldn't take that much off in in one pass, you'd use numerous shallow passes so as not to over-stress the bit, the bearings or the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More on this sort of levelling jig in this previous  Answer: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4775/flattening-the-face-of-a-board-without-using-a-jointer/4783#4783&quot;&gt;Flattening the face of a board without using a jointer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*This relates to how you want to finish. Finish type (if any) is a factor in how finely you want to sand any surface. If you'll be putting on a full film finish (varnish, lacquer, epoxy) you can get away with some fine scratching because the finish fills these up. If you intend to leave the platters bare, or just give them a light oiling then generally you want to finish to a very high level (240 grit or higher) because surface defects are very easy to see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-12-16T09:03:01.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5135" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5139" CreationDate="2016-12-16T10:10:20.507" Score="2" ViewCount="1885" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a (now-discontinued) Jonas desk from Ikea that is several years old:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qVivY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qVivY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;desk&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The desktop has gotten kind of worn and is a little small for my current needs, so I've been considering replacing it with a larger solid wood surface, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/80274963/#/40274960&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this Ikea countertop&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The desk is made of particleboard, and the original desktop is attached with cam lock fasteners. The cam screws go into the bottom of the desktop and engage with cam nuts in the drawer unit and side support. (General illustration of fasteners below, not indicative of how they're actually used in my desk.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G1NOR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G1NOR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cam lock fasteners&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first thought was that I could simply screw the cam screws into the solid wood countertop and attach it to the drawers and side support the same way as the original desktop. However, it then occurred to me that I might need to account for the solid wood expanding and contracting with changes in humidity (as I understand, this isn't really a concern with particleboard).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I right to be concerned with wood movement? If so, how can I best attach the countertop in a way that allows it to move without damage? I've read about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.craftsmanspace.com/knowledge/17-ways-to-fasten-a-tabletop.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;various ways to fasten a tabletop&lt;/a&gt;, but some of them don't seem appropriate - for example, anything that would require me to cut a groove in the particleboard doesn't seem like a good idea. (In general, I'm not sure what kinds of fasteners I can expect to work reliably in particleboard.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or would this project be inadvisable for any other reason? Is it just not worth the trouble?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3060" LastActivityDate="2016-12-16T21:46:56.570" Title="Replacing top on particleboard desk with solid wood - allow for movement? Bad idea?" Tags="|joinery|furniture|wood-movement|fasteners|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5136" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-16T14:13:10.590" Score="2" ViewCount="169" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to make some (probably about 20) table mats by laminating some contrasting-colour strips.   The idea is to end up with a mat that looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/04y9Y.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/04y9Y.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mat as a whole will be 289mm by 207mm by 9mm.   The dark strips are 5mm (as are the lighter wood strips in between).   My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most importantly, what would be good woods for a table mat?   I don't want them to distort with age, or in reaction to things that normally happen to table mats (mild heat, wiping with damp cloths).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I choose a contrasting wood for the dark strips, or just stain some strips?   I'd like to put a food-safe finish (not sure what I should use though) on all the mats, so I don't want a situation where the finish for the mat as a whole smears the dark stain over the lighter wood.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit:&lt;/em&gt; to clarify, I'm not planning on veneering.  The laminating I'm talking about doing is only in the left-to-right direction, to form the stripes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2557" LastEditorUserId="2557" LastEditDate="2016-12-16T22:09:48.567" LastActivityDate="2016-12-17T09:19:03.367" Title="Choices of contrasting wood for laminated table mat" Tags="|finishing|design|wood-selection|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5131" CreationDate="2016-12-16T14:28:21.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cross-cut some 4-6&quot; diameter limbs into little candle stands varying between 4&quot; to 10&quot; tall using a chain saw. While the results were a bit &lt;em&gt;rustic&lt;/em&gt; (to borrow Graphus' term), that was really what we were after, so it worked well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was surprisingly easy to get the cut faces to be pretty parallel, and they were really rather smooth considering the tool I was using. Out of more than a dozen made, there were only a couple where I had to do any significant amount of (belt) sanding to get a flat enough bottom surface for the branch to be stable. The rest just needed a bit of sanding on their top surface to ensure enough flat space for the candle to not tip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you're making serving platters, I'm assuming you're going to want a very smooth surface, so you're going to need a fair bit of finishing work no matter what cutting tool you use to make your rounds. I'm also thinking that you're going to need something to hollow out the inside a bit, because an 18&quot; diameter, 2&quot; thick piece of trunk is going to be a very heavy tray long before you put anything on top of it to be served. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since (I'm guessing) you'll need a lot of finishing work, I think the chainsaw would work quite nicely for you if you already have one (or can easily borrow one). While a band saw would give you a much nicer starting cut, maneuvering such a large log through it would be difficult, at best. Hand sawing might give you a better finish, and it will certainly give you a bigger bicep, but you'll still have to do some sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would venture to say that after a couple of tries, you'd be able to get some pretty decent 2&quot; rounds with a chainsaw. I was cutting White Aspen, so I used a black Sharpie™ to mark the top to length, then used a Mk I eyeball to gauge the correct angle to make it parallel to the existing cut. If you're cutting a dark wood, use a silver Sharpie™ so you can see your lines. Since you're cutting a larger diameter, maybe make several marks around your wood to better help line up the saw. Also, debark, at least in the cutting zone, since the chainsaw will likely rip the bark off before cutting it, and your marks will disappear. Finally, be sure you're using a freshly sharpened chain - it will make your cutting much, much easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2016-12-16T14:28:21.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5136" CreationDate="2016-12-16T14:49:31.087" Score="4" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Nearly any hardwood you desire should work since the exposure to heat and water is moderate. Go for what looks good to you. Although some woods are more porous than others, the applied finish will seal the surface and reduce the risk of penetrating water damage.  One thing you should consider is that any veneer you apply will cause stress in the thin (9mm) substrate that may cause curling.  You can eliminate this by veneering both sides of the panel.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can make laminated mats with either contrasting or stained woods successfully although using stained wood will present some additional challenges.  Any exposed glue or surface imperfections on the veneer faces will require sanding to clean them up which can easily change the stained surface color if unstained veneer is exposed.  I would not be too concerned about smearing the stain surface during finishing. Once the stain dries it is fixed and applying a coating should not be a problem.  I would recommend performing a test strip before finishing your mats to confirm this for your application.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other considerations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your substrate material is plywood, you may want to finish the edges with hardwood bands.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You might also consider making solid hardwood mats by gluing multiple solid planks together.  (Alternate the grain directions of each board to help the mats maintain a flat profile.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-12-16T14:49:31.087" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5135" CreationDate="2016-12-16T17:04:19.713" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct to worry about wood movement.  A solid wood top it will move along it's width (in this case from the front to the back of the desk) with seasonal humidity changes.  Particleboard is a stable material due to the amount of binder in it (i.e. glue) and the lack of an organized grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you secure the top to the particle board without allowing for movement something will break, most likely the particleboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would use &quot;figure 8&quot; fasteners to attach the top.  These are essentially two washers joined edge-to-edge.  One hole is attached to the apron (or leg in this case) and the other is attached to the underside of the tabletop.  They can then pivot as the top expands and contracts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the unstable nature of particle board you'll want to use a screw that is bigger than you'd normally use for wood, both in length and diameter.  You'll also need to drill a pilot hole that is slightly deeper than the screw and about 85% of the screw's outside diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2016-12-16T21:46:56.570" LastActivityDate="2016-12-16T21:46:56.570" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5136" CreationDate="2016-12-17T09:19:03.367" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Most importantly, what would be good woods for a table mat? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't necessarily have to be about the choice of wood because your finish alone could cover you on this front. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heat and moisture-resistance are generally taken care of by finish, because even the most stable of woods may not respond well to being heated and/or dampened on one side only repeatedly especially when the material is thin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I don't want them to distort with age,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can virtually guarantee they will if you make them from solid wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Asking for 9mm material in a board of approximately A4 size is asking a lot of wood, even a stable, strong hardwood carefully chosen to be QS might struggle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're dead set on using solid wood for this and on this thickness I would strongly recommend these are stacked vertically if wiped with a damp cloth &lt;em&gt;even if you fully varnish them&lt;/em&gt;, which in practice means at least 3-4 full-strength coats or the equivalent wiped on (7-10). Note this would be on both sides and all edges, not just on the upper face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lamination would be a much better idea here, either plywood or a lamination you make yourself. Inherently more stable, much stronger in both directions and it will also make the inlet decorative bands easier to do......&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Grain orientation in the decorative strips&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I'm not sure if you'd thought about grain orientation in the inset bands in relation to the main body of the mat but at a guess you were intending to do them cross-grain. And if you do you &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; have issues, and they'll probably show up much sooner than you like. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way to get around this is to make cross-grain banding, but fair warning, making it is tedious and potentially difficult. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Easier to have the grain of the mat run vertical, same as the strips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should I choose a contrasting wood for the dark strips, or just stain some strips? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Staining strips like this and not having the stain bleed into the wood around them is difficult or impossible&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. So I think this means inlays of contrasting wood picked itself :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'd like to put a food-safe finish (not sure what I should use though) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Purely in terms of the food-safe aspect anything is suitable really. This can mean literally anything you can think of, from vegetable oils (cooking oils&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;) all the way through to epoxy and &lt;em&gt;everything&lt;/em&gt; in between, including BLO which on paper is toxic but in practice is not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this shouldn't be your primarily concern as I touch on above, protection of the wood should be unless use a lamination in which case it opens up a wider range of acceptable options (including no finish at all).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go with solid wood I would &lt;em&gt;highly&lt;/em&gt; recommend going with oil-based polyurethane. If that's too yellow for you I would pick a quality waterbased poly, but do be careful to pick a good one as they vary a lot in how well they protect wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Depends to a degree on species and stain type and whether you'd be OK with heavily knifed dividing lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; No they won't go rancid that you'd notice. People were oiling salad bowls and utensils, even chopping boards, with vegetable oils for generations before the current craze for mineral oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-12-17T09:19:03.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5141" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5143" CreationDate="2016-12-17T22:19:24.847" Score="5" ViewCount="542" Body="&lt;p&gt;I apologize for this elementary question, but I'm just getting started with woodworking. I'm working on my first panel glue up - made of 1x6 walnut. I'm wondering how &quot;square&quot; the edges of the planks have to be in order to get a seamless joint. I'm asking because I bought the wood rough sawn and bought a nice track saw to straight-line the edges. I don't have a jointer so I was hoping by buying a nice track saw that I could get joint ready edges off the saw. What I'm seeing is that saw must be riding ever so slightly crooked in the track because when I check the edges of the planks with a combination square, there is a very tiny sliver of light I can see on one side of the edge. It's really a sliver as I have to shine a light behind it to see it. The edge is consistent throughout the length of the board. Is this sort of thing normal and considered to be within the tolerance of a nice track saw? Will planks that are just ever so slightly out of square pull together with clamps? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I've never done this before, I'm not sure if I'm being too much of a perfectionist or if there really is cause for concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this might be happening because the weight of the saw wants to &quot;fall off the edge&quot; on the side of the saw making the cut. I might be able to resolve this by figuring out how to get a more stable base to work from as I was trying to use the garage floor which isn't the easiest to work from. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for any insight and/or suggestions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2087" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-01-12T13:55:46.347" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T13:55:46.347" Title="Panel Glue up Question" Tags="|joinery|circular-saw|making-lumber|gluing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5141" CreationDate="2016-12-17T23:06:20.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To get a flat panel, you usually need to start by jointing the glued edges to be extremely straight and perpendicular to the reference face of each board, and then plan on planing, scraping,  and-or sanding the glued-up panel to remove any alignment error that happened during glue-up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that as it gains and losses moisture (and swells/shrinks acroos the grain as a result) it may not want to stay completely flat; if you are attaching it to other things you need to allow for possible wood motion of this sort. Wider panels, like wider boards, will have more total motion than narrower ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-12-17T23:06:20.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5141" CreationDate="2016-12-18T00:14:13.140" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, panel glue-up requires accurate square faces on the boards being glued. However, not all is lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One possibility is that your combination square is not perfectly square. To try and verify this, cut several thin strips of wood using your saw. When pressed together (in the same orientation as they were cut, see below for why) any deviation from flatness should be more apparent. If the strips form a flat surface then perhaps your combination square is at fault and not the saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the saw is indeed not cutting perfectly square, you still have some options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One option is to tune your track saw to get perfectly square cuts. Perhaps your theory is correct and the way you hold and move the saw causes the saw to cut out of square. Perhaps your technique is okay and the saw's 90 degree stop is not perfectly accurate. Either way you can try and adjust the bevel angle of the saw. Perform the alignment by doing test cuts, not by aligning the blade to the sole of the saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to keep the saw cutting as-is, and simply flip the boards as you glue the panel. In this scenario, if your cuts are 89 degrees instead of 90, flipping every other board will give you an angle of 91 degrees, resulting in a perfectly flat mating surface. To make sure you are flipping correctly, mark the top (or bottom) part of the wood you are cutting, so that you will be able to later place the boards for the glue-up correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a greatly exaggerated illustration of the problem you seem to be facing:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zMS4T.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zMS4T.png&quot; alt=&quot;Not flat exaggeration&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here is is with the middle board flipped:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HlFzY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HlFzY.png&quot; alt=&quot;Flat flipped&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, you can align the cuts in such a way as to have the angles complementing. Again an exaggerated illustration:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JR2og.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JR2og.png&quot; alt=&quot;Flat aligned&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2016-12-18T00:14:13.140" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5144" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-19T10:52:13.040" Score="5" ViewCount="748" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a helical cutter head thicknesser, and just decided that it was time to rotate the blades. I followed the instructions (given the below outcome, probably not 100%), and rotated all of the cutting blades 90 degrees (for the first time). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then put a test piece of pine through just to see if I'd done it properly. As you can see below, I clearly didn't...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JlHlL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JlHlL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could somebody give me advice on what I'm seeing, and how I can fix it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3006" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T16:13:08.000" Title="Thicknesser is not cutting properly anymore" Tags="|thickness-planer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5145" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5146" CreationDate="2016-12-19T18:28:32.183" Score="3" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just finishing a wooden lamp as a base for an electrical lamp (using a porcelain bulb socket)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to worry about the flammability of the stain/wood?&#xA;Assuming I keep the electrical components in a neat and unexposed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my first ever wood working project so I'm rather clueless (even after using my best friend Google ;) )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many Thanks!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3064" LastActivityDate="2016-12-19T19:21:01.500" Title="Using BLO on a Base Used for an Electrical Lamp" Tags="|staining|boiled-linseed-oil|electrical-requirements|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5145" CreationDate="2016-12-19T19:21:01.500" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thete are lots of lamps out there with wooden bases with various finishes.If the wiring isn't bad, and the socket is approved for use in contact with wood (most are, if mounted correctly) and you let there be enough airflow around the bulb for it to cool itself, this really shouldn't be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-12-19T19:21:01.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5147" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-19T19:22:43.560" Score="6" ViewCount="2418" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to achieve an inset edge beading effect on a drawer front as seen here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hUDEY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hUDEY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;inlayed beading effect on drawer front&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the best approach for achieving this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would rather do this on the face of the drawer rather than tacking beading on to a recess on the drawer front if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3065" LastEditorUserId="3327" LastEditDate="2017-02-20T12:40:26.837" LastActivityDate="2017-02-20T12:40:26.837" Title="How do I achieve inset edge beading?" Tags="|hand-tools|router|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5147" CreationDate="2016-12-19T22:26:19.977" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not a job for the router, at least not in the way you're thinking. Here are two quick guides to how this is generally done:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/2006/02/08/two-ways-to-make-cock-beading&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Two Ways to Make Cock Beading&lt;/a&gt; on Fine Woodworking.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/q-a-cock-beading-on-drawer-fronts&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Q &amp;amp; A: Cock-Beading on Drawer Fronts&lt;/a&gt; on Popular Woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're hoping to form this in situ on a solid wood drawer front, I suppose it's possible with a tricky operation using a router and the right bit, but the corners might be still end up less precise than you'd like and I think it would be more straightforward (and surprisingly, not slower) to do it using hand tools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best option IMO would be using a scratch stock, since you don't need to buy anything. You can make one for yourself in under half an hour using stuff you probably already have in the shop (a scrap of wood or plywood, even MDF would do in a pinch) a few screws and a small piece of steel*.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's are a few basic scratch stocks:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XACmX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XACmX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Traditional scratch stocks&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;And some images indicating how they're held and used:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j1o2L.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j1o2L.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Scratch stock grip&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scratch stocks, like all scraping tools, can be pushed or pulled, sometimes used in both ways on the same job, according to how the wood grain lies as well as the preference of the user.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note; scratch stocks are generally used to create grooves and other details that run the whole length of the stock being worked (through grooves). In order to form accurate, repeatable stopped grooves I think you'll want to use wooden stops at both ends, very firmly clamped or temporarily tacked to the bench with small brads. And needless to say some practice is advisable before committing to scratching the detail into your drawer fronts!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Usual candidates for the blade for a scratch stock are short lengths of broken bandsaw or hacksaw blade, or a piece of card scraper or saw plate which are much the same steel usually. But even a piece of stainless from a cheap kitchen knife will do the job quite well, particularly if a magnet will stick to the blade (non-magnetic stainless would still work but would blunt a lot quicker).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-12-19T22:26:19.977" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5144" CreationDate="2016-12-20T16:13:08.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible that the tear-out you have experienced is due to the installation of the thicknesser cutting heads, but I use a planer with knives so I am inexperienced with what can go wrong for your machine. However, if you have rotated the heads according to the manual, I suspect the thicknesser should be working correctly and the problem may be with the wood.  More tests with different species may shed more light on the issue.  Assuming that the equipment is not the culprit, I chose to address the wood as the problem in this answer.   Everyone experiences tear-out from time to time, and there are several things you can examine when prepping a board that may be causing a problem here and can be reduced by studying the grain and adjusting your approach accordingly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, lets clarify a few terms. Regardless of the species, the board will generally have one of three grain patterns depending upon its position in the tree .  Consider a tree that is cut into boards like slices of bread cut longways. This is the most common approach used in milling lumber and can be  is referred to as &lt;strong&gt;flatsawn&lt;/strong&gt;. The grain pattern of the boards will vary as you select boards from the outside to center cuts. The grain pattern for the early and late cut boards (outside cuts) can be described as a cathedral pattern with the typical arched pattern we are all familiar with. The grain pattern is widely spaced arches proceeding up the board length with the arches usually pointing up the tree. The grain pattern of the boards from the center cuts consist of tightly spaced parallel grain lines because they grain direction has gone from mostly parallel to perpendicular to the growth rings. These center cut boards are actually &lt;strong&gt;quartersawn&lt;/strong&gt; which refers to a different approach for milling a tree that maximizes the number of boards with this perpendicular grain pattern.  The boards cut between these outside or center boards will display grain directions in their thickness that are more of a 45 degree angle than parallel or perpendicular.  These can be referred to as &lt;strong&gt;rift-sawn&lt;/strong&gt;. The board in your picture with no clear arches and angled grain directions appears to be rift-sawn.  You can confirm this be examining the thickness grain pattern.  If it is at a significant angle rather than parallel or perpendicular, it is most probably rift-sawn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As any of these boards moves past the thicknesser blades the wood is cut and pulled out of the board. Practically speaking the machine always cuts and tears out wood fibers.  We want to orient the board so that the grain direction moves toward the machine bed as the board moves through. This means that as the blades cut and pull the wood fibers out of the board the fibers are also  oriented out so that the fibers will be part of the future waste rather than reaching deeper into the board where the torn ends will be exposed in the end product.  To do so we generally want to orient flat-sawn boards with the arches pointing away from the feed direction.  For quarter-sawn lumber the direction will not matter as much.  Rift-sawn lumber will present the biggest risks for tear-out because the grain direction is harder to identify and orienting the board for best results is more problematic. Looking at your board I would guess that the board orientation in its tree was such that the top of the tree (and top of the grain arches) was in the direction you fed the board into the thicknesser. resulting in tear-out reaching deeper into the board than the cutter blades.   Try feeding the board into the machine in the opposite direction to see if you get better results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having presented some basic considerations above I can almost guarantee that they will work some of the time.  The orientation of wood grain is consistently inconsistent and I am frequently fooled.  This is especially true with fine fancy pattern woods such as curly or plaid  grained lumbers.  My approach for those is to take many very shallow passes to reduce the depth of any tear-out.  Whenever tear-out happens in a desirable board, I resort using more sanding to get the finished surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T16:13:08.000" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5150" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5152" CreationDate="2016-12-20T19:20:37.230" Score="5" ViewCount="2903" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a few cuts to make on some (large) offcuts of 40mm oak worktop. They are all straight, each cut up to 60cm long, from one side of the piece to the other. while this is technically within spec for my jigsaw, there's no way it's up to the job: the top of the cut may look straight but on a board this thick the back wanders all over the place, even if I take it very gently. It would also take forever even with a new blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a shopping trip is in order. I'm a bit short on space, and don't want to spend a fortune on something that will be used rarely at best. I'm considering either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a sabre (reciprocating) saw, which is compact and likely to be quite useful in the future (e.g. with a coarse tree-trimming blade). It might even replace the tired old jigsaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a circular saw. I haven't needed to use one in 20 years so it's likely to end up sitting in a box for quite some time. I regard it as mainly useful for wood-based  sheet material, and not the thin stuff. That doesn't leave much that I actually do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory I could replace/upgrade the jigsaw, but it's fine on thin sheet material and in not convinced a new one would be so much better. I'm not adverse to hiring something, if there's a much better way that's bulky or expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case I assume I'd set up a guide fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So: is one of my ideas much better for the job in question (straight cuts on 40mm oak)? Which is more generally useful in the future? Or have I missed an important consideration?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2023-09-20T08:30:16.390" LastActivityDate="2023-09-20T08:30:16.390" Title="Choosing a saw for oak worktop, considering future usefulness" Tags="|power-tools|circular-saw|jigsaw|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5150" CreationDate="2016-12-20T22:38:10.127" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the proper saw is really a wide open question and depends a lot upon the level of quality in the cut piece desired, your future woodworking plans and your budget.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order of accuracy for straight cuts I would rank hand held tools lower than woodworking shop equipment.  In order for poorest to best I would place hand held power tools in this order: chainsaw, sawzall, Jigsaw, circlesaw. Using straight edge guides will always improve the quality of cut for any hand power tool.  Circlesaws will also benefit more from using a good quality blade that is designed for the type of wood and finish quality desired. For shop equipment I would order them scrollsaw, bandsaw then tablesaw.  Hand saws can be better than any hand held power tools provided they are the right saw and are handled well, but doing so takes more practice/skill than handling a power tool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have no need to keep the tool after this work consider renting a portable contractor's table saw from a big box store for the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T22:38:10.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5150" CreationDate="2016-12-20T23:03:13.943" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of these were in the comments on the original question, but I'll organize them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Track Saw - This is what I would consider the &quot;best&quot; way to go.  Unfortunately, they start at a few hundred dollars US.  Since you said that you didn't want to spend a lot I would consider this out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Circular Saw - You can cut a perfectly straight line by using a straightedge with a circular saw.  You'll need to measure the offset between the edge of your saw and the blade, then clamp the straightedge to your workpiece that distance away from your intended cut line.  If you're only making a few cuts this is probably the fastest method.  Circular saws are fairly inexpensive and useful, so I think this would be a good route&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Circular saw with homemade track - If you're going to frequently use the circular saw for precision cuts and don't want to buy a track saw you can make a &quot;track&quot; for a circular saw.  Simply attach a straight piece of stock to a piece of 1/4&quot; plywood and trim the plywood to size by running the saw's baseplate against the stock.  This reproduces much of the functionality of a track saw at a much lower price.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jigsaw (or hand saw), then clean up with a Router - make a rough cut close to your intended line with a jigsaw or handsaw, then clamp a straightedge to your workpiece (similar to #2).  It should be offset by the distance from the edge of your router to the bit.  Then run the base of a router along the straightedge to clean up.  This will require a straight bit at least as long as your workpiece.  4cm is a pretty long bit so I might lean against this option.  You will want to make multiple shallower passes, increasing the bit depth with each.  Also be sure to run the router in the proper direction (from left to right typically.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jigsaw (or hand saw), then hand plane - Similar to #4, you can make a rough cut and then plane to your line with a bench plane.  A handplane is a surprisingly useful tool to have around, but it does have a bigger learning curve than the circular saw or router.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2016-12-20T23:10:27.753" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T23:10:27.753" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5150" CreationDate="2016-12-21T04:01:09.793" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So a shopping trip is in order. I'm a bit short on space, and don't want to spend a fortune on something that will be used rarely at best. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to give serious consideration to a panel saw since it ticks all of your boxes, in spades. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Short on space? I don't think compact even covers it since a hand saw can be hung from a hook on the wall, taking up almost no room at all.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't want to break the bank? These saws are cheap to very cheap, with perfectly decent ones available for under a tenner.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As far as future usefulness goes, one of these could be used for all your major hand cuts in material as thin as 3mm (1/8&quot;) all the way up to 15cm (6&quot;) slabs and everything in between. You can even use it for cutting dovetails&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; if you're brave! How's that for versatile? Note: although these saws will generally perform better across the grain they will do both rip and cross cuts. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many types of panel saw available now from various makers, almost all having impulse-hardened teeth&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; and many will also feature modern tooth geometries (some resembling the way Asian crosscut saws are sharpened). Despite purists hating these teeth for both reasons they can make for a saw that cuts very well, fast and straight with relatively little fatigue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;After sawing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You will of course need to clean up the cut edge and if you don't have a jointer a hand plane is probably the best way to do that, it's certainly the fastest. While a router jockey is still fiddling about with a wrench the hand plane guy is already making shavings and he could be done before the first (of many) shallow passes are cut with the router. It literally is that fast at best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't own a hand plane a no. 5 (AKA a jack plane) would make an excellent starting point. Many users consider this the most useful size of bench plane and numerous books recommend jacks for new users. You might be lucky enough to live somewhere where there is a good market for secondhand tools, in which case a decent user can be had for not much money at all (less than the price of a cup of coffee in some cases).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.lostartpress.com/2009/12/23/we-dont-need-no-stinkin-backsaws/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;We Don't Need No Stinkin' Backsaws&lt;/a&gt; on Lost Art Press.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;These are basically unsharpenable, however this is nearly a non-issue since few leisure woodworkers will cut enough in their lifetime to wear one out — some users report ten years plus without any apparent change in cutting performance. Even if you do manage to wear one out they're so inexpensive they can be considered disposable, which is what they're priced to be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But don't just throw one away if it gets blunt or kinked, retain the saw plate for its steel which can be used to make scrapers of all kinds, and other shop tools only limited by your imagination and inventiveness. (Good thing to remember here: this is air-hardening steel.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T04:01:09.793" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5154" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5155" CreationDate="2016-12-21T17:18:29.353" Score="3" ViewCount="258" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this router table &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/ma...-0546841p.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/ma...-0546841p.html&lt;/a&gt; which is exactly 2' wide&#xA;I am building a router table top from a piece of high density MDF from Home Depot. The size is 2'x4'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need help with positioning the fence, the router plate and the tracks, and selecting the right type of track&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The router plate: should I put it in the middle (A) in the picture or in one of the other (B,C,D) positions. Please explain your recommedation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Should I run the fence along the length of the table (as depicted) or should it be the other way?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 For the traversal track in the figure (always parallel with the fence, what type of track should I use ? U slot or T track?  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: the longitudinal rails could also support a fine tuning/high precision fence push mechanism based on something like in the 2nd picture below. I will update the diagram to show that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GOrsL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GOrsL.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gz55c.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gz55c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what inspired me&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CUB1p.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CUB1p.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update 2: The size of the table is somehow dictated by the supporting frame which I grabbed from PrincessAuto here in Canada for $50. It can take up to 100lb. The table is foldable so the space does not become an issue and the table is designed (not shown here) to be able to remove the existing top and replace it with a different one with different functionality. I have no idea how big will the pieces of wood be for my probects but as I mentioned above I will mostly need this for cutting slots and making joits needed for all sort of custom storage units that I will need in different places in my house. The size will vary from full size shelves (floor to ceiling) to small box joints and picture frames. Slots for T tracks for various jigs that I might want to make will be another application. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update3: OK here is a better concept and use of the table area&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W5W2L.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W5W2L.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update4: I have rotated the picture and positioned the saw as recommended in the second answer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update5: here is the fence idea that I am inclined to implement. The pictures are not very clear&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dNZG3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dNZG3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="497" LastEditorUserId="497" LastEditDate="2016-12-22T05:24:45.250" LastActivityDate="2016-12-22T05:59:30.947" Title="Building new router table by re purposing components of an off shelf router table-need advice" Tags="|router|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5154" CreationDate="2016-12-21T17:30:58.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it were me, I would run the fence along the longer dimension, as that will give your workpiece the most support both on infeed and outfeed when using the fence. I would also probably in that case shift the router insert forward towards the 'front' of the table, closer to your body so you don't have to lean so far, as well as to allow the most amount of travel for the fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a reason that you have the left portion of the table sectioned off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you plan to use the router table for? Running longer linear stock against the fence lends itself to the longer orientation I mention above, but if you plan to do a lot of flush trimming and roundover work without the fence, you will want to be able to have work space on all sides of the bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T17:30:58.187" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3835" CreationDate="2016-12-21T22:18:22.787" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In this case the safest bet (you should still check with the artist about the kind of paint used) would be to utilize a waterborne sealer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The technology has come a long way and is as durable if not more so than old fashioned sealers (poly, lacquer etc).  As additional bonuses, the smell is far less offensive, it dries more quickly, and is not prone to yellowing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as application goes I would suggest spraying it on if you have the facilities/tools.  An HVLP sprayer is great for projects like this, it conserves material when you are working on small objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To avoid any damage to the artwork apply very light coats until you have a full seal, and do NOT sand until you have a solid base of coating built up.  Sand light with large numbered grits (at least 200 probably, or 000+ steel wool).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have a full seal you can apply thicker coats that take longer to dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="212" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T22:18:22.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5157" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-21T22:58:37.393" Score="3" ViewCount="8343" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have searched the website of my local big box hardware store (in Australia) for Baltic Birch Plywood with no results.  They do, however, have &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bunnings.com.au/2440-x-1220-x-9mm-aa-grade-mixed-hardwood-marine-plywood_p0320030&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marine Grade Plywood&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The product description states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hardwood Plywood with &quot;AA&quot; grade face and back and marine grade bond.&#xA;  Excellent veneer quality makes this product ideal for staining and&#xA;  painting. Marine bond will not deteriorate due to moisture exposure.&#xA;  Excellent strength and stiffness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;AA&quot; grade face and back &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Marine strength bond &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Full hardwood construction &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Excellent strength and stiffness&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are these products the same or similar?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2856" LastActivityDate="2017-01-02T01:49:53.307" Title="Is Marine Grade Plywood the same as Baltic Birch Plywood?" Tags="|plywood|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5157" CreationDate="2016-12-21T23:54:38.397" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it doesn't say Baltic birch, the wood is probably not Baltic birch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't say marine, it isn't intended for continuous exposure to water. Different adhesives, and again possibly different woods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the marine ply &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be similar, depending on how many layers of veneer it has per inch and how void-free they are (both things that the Baltic birch plywood is usually good on). And as hardwood plywood goes, Baltic birch tends to be relatively affordable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other kinds of hardwood plywood too, of course. One of those might or might not be easily findable...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T23:54:38.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5157" CreationDate="2016-12-22T00:21:33.427" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.  Baltic Birch is a specific product.  What you're looking at is not necessarily the same.  I can see a few differences right offhand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Baltic Birch is all birch.  The product you're looking at specifies &quot;full hardwood construction&quot; but doesn't specify that it is birch.  It could be poplar or balsa or any other type of hardwood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Baltic Birch has a high ply-count (13 ply for 3/4&quot;).  The product you're looking at doesn't specify this so it would probably be a lower count (thicker individual plies.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The face and back grade is just that, how the front and the back look.  That has nothing to do with the construction.  You can get Baltic Birch (or any other type of plywood) with various grade and species of face veneers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buying plywood is, unfortunately, very complicated.  It's pretty hard to establish exactly what you're getting without actually working with it, or at least checking it out in person.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2016-12-22T00:21:33.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5154" CreationDate="2016-12-22T00:34:34.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This opinion is based on the pic in update 3. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry if this sounds harsh, but a diy fence on a tablesaw (not to mention that you're on an atypical side of the blade, though that could be fixed by flipping the saw around, though that creates capacity problems...) is a terrible idea. It's critical that the fence be parallel to the blade. if it pinches to the outward side, you'll get kickback. (Pinching the other way is less disastrous but inaccurate.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted to implement that pic, I'd suggest a good commercial fence that rides on a rail at the front of the saw. Place the center of the router close enough to the edge that you aren't leaning way over to use it. (Personally, I'd be uncomfortable with 2'. My router table is about 8&quot; from edge to bit.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And what others say about having width to support infeed and outfeed is valid for typical uses of a router table. If you could describe more of what you plan to do, then we could either try to convince you that we're right or let it drop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2016-12-22T00:34:34.270" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3835" CreationDate="2016-12-22T01:36:33.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with the comments above re: testing on scrap and asking what paint was used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it's really difficult to get &#xA;that classic high gloss finish out of a water based varnish. The pros use spray lacquer, building many coats and then wet sanding level, followed by polishing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best bet is to read &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1565235487&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bob Flexner's book on wood finishing&lt;/a&gt; and choose your finish from there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1154" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2016-12-22T14:46:16.853" LastActivityDate="2016-12-22T14:46:16.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5154" CreationDate="2016-12-22T05:59:30.947" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You mentioned you are just getting started in woodworking, so keep it simple. If you need something more elaborate later, you can redesign to fit your new needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a few other points worth considering:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consider whether you have ever needed a larger tabletop and what you will do in the near future which will require a larger router table. Usually if you are working with something that large, you would use an edge guide or other jig and take the router to the workpiece, rather than hefting the workpiece onto a large router table.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your router table fence doesn't need to extend the full width of the table.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may be able to build a better router table fence than the one that came with the off-the-shelf router table&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A router table built into your table saw extension seems like a great space-saving feature, but it isn't as convenient as a separate router table. You may sometimes find the router needs to be lowered because it interferes with a table saw cut, or you may encounter a situation in which you need to use the router but don't want to move the fence because it's dialed in for the next several table saw cuts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In update 3, it looks like you are only using the router table fence as an anchor point for the micro-adjuster for your table saw fence. Make sure your actual fence retains its setting parallel to the blade. If you need to calibrate the former router table fence parallel to the blade for every cut or every switch between router mode and table saw mode, then square up the table saw fence relative to that, you will not ever want to use your table saw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2016-12-22T05:59:30.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5163" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5165" CreationDate="2016-12-22T14:22:46.080" Score="4" ViewCount="1114" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the final stages of trying to build my first dining room table - a Christmas gift for my wife. All has gone pretty well until this last coat of Arm-R-Seal (Satin). It's the 5th coat, and now, it looks as if the finish has nimbs/bumbs/bubbles in it. Previous coats didn't have this problem and of course it shows up on the final coat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, I used an old cotton T-Shirt folded up to wipe on the finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what the finish looks like now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qp9Jp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qp9Jp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Finish with nimbs/bumps/bubbles&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My two main questions are... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What do I do to correct this problem? Is it salvageable? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What went wrong on this last coat?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2087" LastEditorDisplayName="user862" LastEditDate="2019-02-10T19:42:48.677" LastActivityDate="2019-02-10T19:42:48.677" Title="Problem with &quot;Bubbles&quot; in Table Finish" Tags="|finishing|sanding|refinishing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5163" CreationDate="2016-12-22T14:36:39.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a card scraper is really good for removing those nibs/bubbles. It's salvageable, but it will take some work cutting down the finish and then rebuilding it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Not sure. the finish looks like the coats are fairly thick. try diluting the finish 50 % with solvent. that should help.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2016-12-22T14:36:39.687" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5163" CreationDate="2016-12-23T10:03:22.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What do I do to correct this problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;De-nib, then either apply a little fresh finish (tips on that below) or polish up the varnish that's already on the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't mind that the surface is more of a satin or semi-gloss the simplest option is to just buff up the surface a bit after you de-nib.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How to de-nib&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3658/how-do-i-de-nib-polyurethane-after-it-dries-but-still-maintain-its-finish&quot;&gt;How do I de-nib polyurethane after it dries but still maintain its finish?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Note especially tip on using brown paper for this!&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Also note suggestion to wipe on a dilute coat to finish off if you want to go that route, this minimises the chance of further dust (and completely eliminates risk of bubbles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1420/leveling-a-finish-finishing-the-finish&quot;&gt;Leveling a finish/finishing the finish&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What went wrong on this last coat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can't be sure from the photo, could be either bubbles or dust nibs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of us really have no control over dust in the air ultimately, even if you build a finishing enclosure/tent in your workspace there will always be some*.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Working in a normal room as most of us do you can dust the room carefully, vacuum and then leave for some hours for airborne dust to settle but you'll disturb a bit of it walking into the room, and additionally you can carry some dust in on your body and clothing. This is why in addition to clean rooms professional finishers may also wear a special garment that covers them completely (often including the head) and not their normal clothing which can be loaded with dust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Although a tent does go a long way towards reducing the risk nearly to nothing. But then wiping your varnish on practically eliminates the problem anyway, without having the hassle or taking up any valuable floor space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-12-23T10:03:22.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3915" CreationDate="2016-12-23T10:23:41.543" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The OP does not have a &quot;trim&quot; router but a &quot;compact&quot; router by Performax which does provide 1/4&quot; and 3/8&quot; collet capacity. The trim router has ONLY the 1/4&quot; size. Now, the answer to his question IMHO is this: If you are going to be doing this regularly, then it is not advisable. If you just want to do this job and this job ONLY, it should be fine. Just take some precautions, and try it momentarily with a slower speed first. If you hear or feel anything out of the ordinary then it's the shank vibrating. If that's the case then stop immediately and get the proper size or adapter.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3073" LastActivityDate="2016-12-23T10:23:41.543" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5157" CreationDate="2016-12-23T14:19:44.407" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fellow Aussie here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Marine grade plywood is not the same as Baltic Birch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Baltic Birch plywood is made from Baltic Birch, a species of wood not commonly found in Australia (or the southern hemisphere as far as I am aware).  In Australia you will need to get it from a specialist supplier such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.plyco.com.au/index.php?main_page=index%20%22PlyCo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Plyco&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3074" LastActivityDate="2016-12-23T14:19:44.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3835" CreationDate="2016-12-23T18:39:53.907" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Guitar finishing can be a bit different than traditional wood finishing. There are a lot of similarities though too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Primary considerations are protection of the instrument, and look. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lacquer has historically been used, because it can provide a glass like finish. The downsides to lacquer are the time to cure, the specific conditions needed (low humidity, and warm temperatures), cracking and yellowing over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Large manufacturers have long moved to a poly finish for a lot of reasons. Easier to apply, less finicky (overall), can be nearly as glossy as lacquer, if waterbased then less yellowing. Downsides are that it is a thicker finish and can affect the tone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everyone has mentioned this already, but test, test, test! Prepare a test piece of wood and have the artist put some of the same paint they used on the test piece (doesn't need to be the same design). What is important is how the clear coat will react with the paint. Use one side for lacquer and the other for poly and try it out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of great guitar specific resources for finishing. I will list a few here for reference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;StewMac - Finishing with spray can lacquer: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Online_Resources/Learn_About_Instrument_Finishing_and_Finish_Repair/ColorTone_Aerosol_Finishing_Kit_Instructions.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Online_Resources/Learn_About_Instrument_Finishing_and_Finish_Repair/ColorTone_Aerosol_Finishing_Kit_Instructions.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;TundraMan - Step by step lacquer: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tundraman.com/Guitars/Finish/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.tundraman.com/Guitars/Finish/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rothkoandfrost.com/how-to-spray-nitrocellulose-lacquer-1/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.rothkoandfrost.com/how-to-spray-nitrocellulose-lacquer-1/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2016-12-23T18:39:53.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5169" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-23T21:45:24.553" Score="5" ViewCount="33617" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently refinished our dining room table using Minwax stain and urethane. My question is why hasn't this overpowering smell gone away? Its been two weeks now and I can't stand the smell yet. Its beautiful, the stain and varnish worked like magic, but the smell. How long should it take for the smell to go away?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2016-12-24T04:00:09.473" LastActivityDate="2016-12-24T13:24:23.103" Title="How long does it take for the odor to go away after applying varnish?" Tags="|staining|varnish|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5169" CreationDate="2016-12-24T13:24:23.103" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing is the type of product used. As the Comments have asked about the types of product used are a big factor — oil-based and spirit-soluble stuff smells much more strongly (and most people think more offensively) than waterbased equivalents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that the major factor is drying, which is down to air flow* and temperature. In a room in a typical modern interior (often made specifically not to be draughty) the smell can be expected to hang around for at least a couple of weeks if you've used quite a lot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general the smell is really pronounced for a while, with a fairly steep falloff after that so you should expect the smell to begin to diminish from now on. Obviously it'll help if you can open a window, maybe set up a fan blowing over the table if that's practical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*In an enclosed space the smell can be really amazingly persistent. Varnish the inside of a cupboard sometime and see how many &lt;em&gt;months&lt;/em&gt; it takes for the smell to diminish enough that it doesn't bother you O_O &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is one reason that it's generally advised not to varnish the insides of drawers, unless you have the time to leave them to fully cure before installing them (after a full cure you can't smell a finish with your nose right at the surface).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-12-24T13:24:23.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5171" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-25T04:23:09.810" Score="3" ViewCount="748" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for some good methods for removing Arm-R-Seal Satin from a dining table as I had some problems with bubbles in part of the finish. Not sure what else to do other than remove it and start again? Is sanding the best approach or do I need to use some sort of chemical stripper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2087" LastEditorUserId="3327" LastEditDate="2017-02-20T12:40:37.510" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T17:12:58.523" Title="How do I strip Arm-R-Seal?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5172" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-25T16:26:09.057" Score="8" ViewCount="76379" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a wood cut and bought adjustable table legs, secured the legs to the wood, but the table wobbles/shakes horribly side to side, and sometimes even the other way when i even only write something slowly on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The things i tried so far to fix it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leveling the legs. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Putting cork slices under the legs. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wrapping fishing line between the crossing legs. (not all around the all legs)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It only stops shaking a little bit if i lean the table to something standing still but i don't want to use it that way, also i don't want to fix the table to the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If i am not wrong i need to add braces to the table, but i don't know how to do it. Should they be installed only between the legs, or also secured to the bottom of the table too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The legs are not wooden also have no places to add anything onto it. How can i add these braces and where can i find braces with a desired length?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way the legs secured to the table, and the added fishing line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g2wOH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g2wOH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/03z5s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/03z5s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fishing line crossing the legs.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Table dimensions : 104 x 54 cm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J6oqc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J6oqc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;overall table&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3080" LastEditorUserId="3327" LastEditDate="2017-02-20T11:50:44.570" LastActivityDate="2021-04-02T23:50:44.627" Title="How do I stop the table I built from wobbling/shaking side to side?" Tags="|wood|design|table-making|stability|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5175" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5180" CreationDate="2016-12-26T14:00:48.173" Score="1" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am slowly putting together an absolute beginner workshop (too much to call it so) without trying to invest too much money since I am doing woodworking for fun and some practical needs around the house. The scope of my work will be some floor to ceiling custom shelves, picture frames, small boxes, smaller shelves, a shoe box and some other things that will not be big in size. Probably the shelves will be the only big thing that I will ever build. I am also planning to build a deck and a pergola but these are not really woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having the above said I am considering building a router table and I have questions around choosing the right material for the table top. &#xA;My question is this: would a router table top sag if the router will not be permanently attached to it ?&#xA;I am considering using high density MDF for the top. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen builds where MDF was used and then laminate applied to it. While I might consider this I have doubts regarding my ability to obtain an absolutely plane surface after applying the laminate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be OK to have to build another table top every two or three years (I do not expect my projects to take me longer than that)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One more question: if I go the laminate way, do I apply the laminate before or after I cut my slots for my t-tracks, the router insert opening and the miter slot ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="497" LastEditorUserId="497" LastEditDate="2018-04-05T02:33:16.873" LastActivityDate="2018-04-05T02:33:16.873" Title="Does a route table sag if you do not leave the router attached to it?" Tags="|router|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5175" CreationDate="2016-12-26T15:15:49.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on the construction of the table and over what timeframe you look. Everything saga eventually... If the tabletop is supported accross its width and or length to help stiffen it, sagging will be much slower than if it is supported only by its four corners. A thicker table will sag less than a thin one for similar reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there are lots of folks who have used simple/disposable router tables that aren't much more than a sheet of plywood with a simple fence. If you don't need much precision, that's fine too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-12-26T15:15:49.100" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5177" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-26T16:21:57.543" Score="2" ViewCount="3133" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to paint a knotty pine panel and saw a &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/1998/49&quot;&gt;recommendation&lt;/a&gt; to use two-part epoxy marine paint as primer so the knots would not bleed though the paint as few years later.  Do I use the marine primer and then paint finish product or do I just apply few coats of marine paint and no primer product?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3086" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2016-12-27T08:52:43.290" Title="How do I prevent knots in a pine wood bead board panel from bleeding through paint?" Tags="|paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5178" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5186" CreationDate="2016-12-26T22:36:20.550" Score="3" ViewCount="172" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old but adequate jig/sabre saw that I don't seem to be able to find blades for.  I know there are T-shank and U-shank blades and my saw seems to use the latter but the blades I've been able to find recently have a shank so narrow that after a few inches of cutting, the blade angles back so that the tip trails the part fixed in the saw.  It seems I need a wider shank but I can't find them.  Or any kind of useful comparison between types of blades for this type of saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The saw is a cheap, old, no-name tool but it works it it would be nice if I could get blades for my occasional use.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mEvUp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mEvUp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The saw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OpBwe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OpBwe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Closeup of blade&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1214" LastEditorUserId="1214" LastEditDate="2016-12-27T13:17:00.943" LastActivityDate="2016-12-27T19:40:15.513" Title="What is the right blade for my old, cheap jig (sabre?) saw?" Tags="|saw-blade|jigsaw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5177" CreationDate="2016-12-26T23:12:30.443" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If all you're aiming for is preventing knots from bleeding resin through your paint you don't need to resort to using an epoxy paint, just shellac will do the job perfectly well. Shellac has been relied upon for this for many many years and it works as well today as it did in the 19th century.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can either treat the knots individually* with shellac (one coat of strong shellac, e.g. 4lb cut, or a few coats of weaker shellac, e.g. 2lb cut) or because it's now available an alternative would be to prime using a shellac-based primer. These are specifically made and marketed as stain blockers and they can work very well. However, they can be quite pricey. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plain shellac is relatively inexpensive, especially if made up from dry shellac flakes or buttons dissolved in denatured alcohol, rather than bought ready-made in a tin. It also lasts much longer in dry form than once made up into solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Guides to using shellac for this purpose disagree about when to apply it. Some say it should be applied to the bare wood prior to priming and others that it should be painted on the knots on top of the first primer coat. I can't say which is more reliable, but because there is much published advice to do it in both ways my suspicion is that it works equally well either way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-12-26T23:12:30.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5175" CreationDate="2016-12-26T23:17:01.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My question is this: would a router table top sag if the router will not be permanently attached to it ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The typical router that you'll mount to the underside of a router table is a fairly significant weight, so if you think about it there's less tendency for the surface to sag with the router not in place than with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sagging is a function of the stiffness of a material/assembly and the weight applied to it, with the router not installed it would only be the top's own weight that would be pulling downwards. &lt;em&gt;And this would only be with the table in its horizontal position&lt;/em&gt;. There is zero tendency for it to sag if the table is stored with the surface vertical or nearly so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;One more question: if I go the laminate way, do I apply the laminate before or after I cut my slots for my t-tracs, the router insert opening and the miter slot ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that may not have been clear from your reading, laminates applied to router tables are largely to provide a hard-wearing, low-friction surface but otherwise may not add anything of note so you shouldn't feel at all bad about just leaving this out of a design. Particularly if using one of the stronger MDFs as the substrate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just wipe on a few coats of varnish, maybe give the top a waxing once a year with paste wax and the surface will be more than tough enough for use, and plenty slippery enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-12-26T23:17:01.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5181" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5185" CreationDate="2016-12-26T23:29:31.963" Score="3" ViewCount="1486" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried to do something like the first picture in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodsmithtips.com/2013/01/31/making-perfect-templates/?utm_source=WoodsmithTips&amp;amp;utm_medium=email&amp;amp;utm_campaign=6764&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; and it was a disaster.  I was working with 3/4&quot; maple and bit dug in, chewed it to pieces, and eventually broke the piece in half.  I have a fresh, sharp bit, a powerful router, and I was moving the right way past the bit.  What did I do wrong?  Should the router be on high speed or low?  What else affects my chance of success?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looked something like this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L0oxd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L0oxd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1214" LastEditorUserId="1214" LastEditDate="2016-12-30T02:52:14.573" LastActivityDate="2016-12-30T02:52:14.573" Title="Why did my flush trim bit chew up my work piece?" Tags="|router|template|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5182" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-27T05:58:21.737" Score="2" ViewCount="212" Body="&lt;p&gt;Below is what I am trying to achieve which is to add an outfeed wing that will sit on the table with one edge and with the other on the table saw (Dewalt 745)&#xA;This is intended to be a wing that can be relocated on any of the three sides where it can be connected . (S,E,and W sides of the table saw in the figure below) The workshop table was just summary represented by its top&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the most elegant and practical way to connect this will as described above.&#xA;Must be easy to remove and reconnect to any other side.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VPvLF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VPvLF.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update1: &#xA;I have updated the picture because in the meantime I considered a couple of more details&#xA;The table saw support and the bench are both on wheels.&#xA;I don't like the idea to move the table, but I am with re positioning the table saw support&#xA;Of course the table saw can be moved close to the edge (that is one option) but then I depend on the bench for that wing.&#xA;I am more interested in a solution to support the out-feed at the table saw end, the opposite end could be supported by anything (a table, legs, bolts in a wall etc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update2: after toying with some ideas here is what I am thinking about. The legs can be secured against the table saw stand by claps or by drilling holes in the legs of the stand and by using pins&#xA;Brackets to slide the legs in could also be an option&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L3fDg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L3fDg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SIq2O.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SIq2O.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="497" LastEditorUserId="497" LastEditDate="2016-12-27T16:16:54.010" LastActivityDate="2016-12-27T16:16:54.010" Title="Looking for a solution to install a quickly removable outfeed wing for my table saw" Tags="|table-saw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5182" CreationDate="2016-12-27T09:09:59.577" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first thought is loosely based on how drop-leaf tables support their leaves once open, just without the hinge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the table can be configured so that sliding supports can be installed underneath the top surface at each required position you could simply rest the outfeed extension upon them when needed, lift it off and store it against the workshop wall when not in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The supports will need to be fairly long, double the width of the outfeed surface or more, but can be stored out of the way under the table at one position — one of the sides where they can be slid fully in so as not to project from the edge. They will be held under the table most simply by C-shaped brackets made from plywood, the cutout done accurately to provide a tight sliding fit for the supports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With four battens nailed or screwed to the underside of the extension pieces providing a tight fit against the sliding supports the registration will be very positive and if it needs to be able to lock in position that could be arranged with pins of some kind, either from the sides (underneath) or even through the top. Allen keys would make excellent pins, with a handy bend already there to help pull them out*. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Strength&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In traditional woodworking thinking something like this wouldn't be thought to be particularly strong, you wouldn't want to lean on it a lot for example in the same way that you're not supposed to lean heavily on the two ends of a drop-leaf table, and that's &lt;em&gt;with&lt;/em&gt; the added strength of the hinges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But just using fairly light sliding supports (two 2x1s or similar) it should be more than good enough for an outfeed surface for a table saw which isn't ever weighted heavily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The arrangement can be made much stouter if needed however, by making up the supports as laminations. This way inexpensive material (SPF or plywood) can be used and you'd end up with something stronger and stiffer than any very strong (expensive) solid wood you could reasonably hope to use instead. This is the principle behind Glu-lam beams and it works on a small scale just as well as at a large scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Many of us will have multiple spare Allen keys in one size in the house from flat-pack furniture, but if not the cheapest of cheap Allen keys of the type stocked in a dollar store/pound store will do. These can actually be surprisingly not-sucky anyway for how cheap they are, but for a job like this they're more than adequate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-12-27T09:09:59.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5182" CreationDate="2016-12-27T15:28:08.367" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My approach to connecting the outfeed wing is to rest it on a wing wall made of a 2x2 frame and 1/2&quot; plywood on one side that extends from the tablesaw support cart frame.  By extending wing wall up to approx 3/4&quot; from the top of the saw surface the outfeed wing can be flush with the saw top surface/  If you wish to change the outfeed wing from back to the side you can rotate the saw.  You may have to put openings in the wing wall to accommodate the adjustment wheels on the saw, but it should easily carry the weight of anything you run through the saw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-12-27T15:28:08.367" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5181" CreationDate="2016-12-27T15:49:37.493" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a very dangerous task if you don't know what you are doing. There are a couple of issues here that can lead to blowout. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, as Graphus mentioned, is the amount of material you are removing. I would recommend being as close to 1/16&quot; as you can comfortably get with your rough cut. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, when you are climbing the curve, so to speak you are going against the grain, and particularly with a straight cutter like is shown in that image, you will be fighting that the whole way. It will want to grab and as soon as it does, its going to pop on you. I prefer to avoid straight cutters in this scenario. I would recommend a spiral cutting bit, to help minimize that blowout and tendency of the bit to grab the material.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000NJEDD8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Freud Spiral Flush Trim&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, for tighter radius parts, it is often worth it to work the piece in halves, flipping the part for each half to always be working with the grain. You can either flip the pattern to the other face, or switch between a flush trim and pattern bits as needed to accommodate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastActivityDate="2016-12-27T15:49:37.493" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5178" CreationDate="2016-12-27T19:40:15.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe you'll find that the split pin at the top of the blade holder is meant to engage a slot in the top of the blade, keeping it from pivoting on the attachment screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That type of blade looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kLb2b.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kLb2b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd need to measure it carefully or test fit it to make sure it will work for you. Measuring might be easier given the package at a store is likely to be sealed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2016-12-27T19:40:15.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5187" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-28T00:20:24.067" Score="8" ViewCount="387" Body="&lt;p&gt;I followed the procedure of stripping, sanding, staining and then polyurethaning the top of two antique, about 75 years, dressers. The one came out beautifully. The other has questionable results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was an area of the one dresser that had what I believed was water damage. It is unknown if my conjecture is correct, but that would be the most logical answer. I got the old varnish off with citra strip. The area of the suspected water damage was discernable but not egregious. I then sanded the top to a silky smooth texture. Due to the age of the dresser I suspected that there was a veneer on the top so I used 150 then 220. Both sanding steps were on the easy does it scale. The tops were silky when done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I stained both twice for 10 mins each time to get correct color. When I applied the Minwax Fast Drying Polyurethane Clear Satin to the one dresser it seemed to almost 'bead like water' in the area of the former stain. When dry, there was a textural difference in that area. I was hoping that it would self correct with the light sanding and the application of a second coat. It only got worse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am obviously going to remove the poly and try again. What could be causing this problem? Can it be prevented from happening again? Also, in between all the steps, I used tacky cloth to ensure that the tops were free of debris.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3091" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-12-28T16:31:27.197" LastActivityDate="2019-04-24T02:00:21.487" Title="What is causing this poor refinishing result and how do I fix it?" Tags="|furniture|polyurethane|refinishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5172" CreationDate="2016-12-28T01:45:26.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need triangles.  Triangles make all the difference and make things stronger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like this would make a huge difference, though it isn't ideal for a table you sit at. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tWHwG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tWHwG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However braces on each leg to the base of the table would be ideal  such as you can see in this picture.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IAKnS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IAKnS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without some kind of bracing you are going to have to live with wobble.  90 degree angles are the weakest and least stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2016-12-28T01:45:26.757" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5189" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5190" CreationDate="2016-12-28T06:15:42.127" Score="5" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a continuation of another post where I was asking about a solution to easily add an outfeed wing to a table saw stand&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided to go with the solution depicted below but I am having a hard time to find the proper hardware for building this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7A2bE.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7A2bE.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Khsi.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Khsi.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Basically the outfeed table sits on a piece of wood that rotates around its longitudinal axis allowing the wing to get into the storage position (the wiremesh object) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The priciple is simple the hinge should be practically a pair of pins, one at each end screwed into the traversal piece of wood that supports the table saw end of the outfeed wing. The hinge/pins should support the weight of a 2'x4'x3/4' MDF plus whatever slides from the table saw ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="497" LastActivityDate="2016-12-28T10:01:06.087" Title="What hardware should I use for this hinge?" Tags="|table-saw|tabletop|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5189" CreationDate="2016-12-28T10:01:06.087" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wooden dowel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No need to overthink this, dowel is used as the pivot pin or axle in many a traditional design and it can work very well even in cases of sustained use. Pick a strong hardwood (e.g. oak, beech, maple) and it's likely the pivots will outlive your need for the outfeed table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To prevent rubbing against the framework you'll probably want to install some washers. Metal washers may do here but if you'd prefer a lower-friction alternative you can make a custom washer from a few of the plastics used in food packaging, e.g. LDPE, PP or PET. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3720/protective-disc-between-moving-pieces-of-wood/3723#3723&quot;&gt;previous Answer &lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2016-12-28T10:01:06.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5192" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5198" CreationDate="2016-12-29T14:23:49.777" Score="4" ViewCount="8536" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some ~36&quot; 4x4 pieces that need to have round corners with a radius equal to the width of the board. (Each end of the 4x4 will have a 1/4 circle connecting the top and bottom of the board.) The curve would lie in the plane of one of the long sides - that is, if you if you looked end-on at the &quot;ends&quot; (3.5&quot; x 3.5&quot; profile), it remains square, but looking at the front or back (36&quot; x 3.5&quot;), you'd see half of a capsule shape (with curves cut in each end). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Todo: insert picture here. :/&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is that the board is too deep to cut with my router unless I cut from both sides - it's tricky to get both sides to line up, even using the template I've cut from 1/8&quot; MDF. I have the same issue with my jig saw as it appears to cut about 2-2.5&quot;, and the (planed) board is still about 3-1/4&quot; thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can approximate the curve with my miter saw, making a series of cuts in ~10 degree increments that are tangent to the curve, then hit it with the orbital sander to smooth it out. That works &lt;em&gt;okay&lt;/em&gt;, and provides the the most repeatable results, but I feel like there should be a better way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not have access to a band saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suggestions? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried the router approach but wasn't able to get the result I was looking for. I finally went back to the miter saw, going in 2-5 degree increments. It worked pretty well, just have to find my belt sander now. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9FEXn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9FEXn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;curve&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3096" LastEditorUserId="3096" LastEditDate="2017-01-25T05:18:48.733" LastActivityDate="2017-01-25T05:18:48.733" Title="How to cut round corners on a 4x4?" Tags="|technique|wood|tools|cutting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5192" CreationDate="2016-12-29T15:25:39.307" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest using a router from both sides, then cleaning up the middle by hand (sawing out the bulk then planing down the rest with a block plane to be even with the routed sides). It sounds like your router template needs some work though - it has to be solidly and physically registered in two dimensions, not just aligned by eye. And before you make any cuts at all, make sure to accurately layout and mark the curves with a fine pencil... that way you'll know immediately if your cuts are true when you do go to make them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T15:25:39.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5194" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-29T20:21:00.287" Score="3" ViewCount="560" Body="&lt;p&gt;My father insisted I try putting a thick coat of tung oil finish then letting it cure without wiping the excess off (some video he found on youtube). After curing, the desk was very tacky so he suggested I put on a layer of wax and while that's helped a little, it's still very tacky. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if I might have screwed myself over by putting on this layer of wax. The desk had been curing for 4 days but I'm worried that this layer of wax will keep it from fully curing. Any thoughts? I appreciate the help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3101" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T21:20:23.720" Title="I applied wax paste to my desk after a few coats of tung oil finish. End result is a very tacky desk" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5194" CreationDate="2016-12-29T21:20:23.720" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After curing, the desk was very tacky &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It probably &lt;em&gt;wasn't&lt;/em&gt; cured. Something that is touch-dry after 6-12 hours in the recommended very thin coat could easily take more than a few days to stop being sticky in a thicker coat, possibly a week or longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usual cause of this problem was too much being left on the surface during the application procedure. Also, as with all things like this, the ambient temperature plays a big part, drying being much more reliable and speedy when it's warm. It can be extremely retarded if the temperature is low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if I might have screwed myself over by putting on this layer of wax. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well FWIW a coat of paste was is one of the standard dodges for a sticky finish. It's not 100% effective but it can work well enough if the problem isn't too severe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately the best solution for this is usually to clean off the surface with plenty of solvent&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; and lots of rags or paper towels. Then once the stickiness has been removed you can apply one or more additional coats of the finish the right way this time, by rubbing it in and wiping away more of the excess&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The desk had been curing for 4 days but I'm worried that this layer of wax will keep it from fully curing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The curing of the finish is based on access to oxygen, after the initial drying phase when the spirits portion evaporates. A coat of wax isn't an air barrier so finish can dry and cure underneath it. Might be a little slowed but shouldn't make a huge difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do bear in mind though that if the finish was left on too thick it probably won't ever harden up fully. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Because the finish isn't fully cured mineral spirits/white spirit will usually work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; It depends on the exact formulation of the product just how much you need to remove to get a good result and they do vary from make to make. Some are oilier than others (making them softer) and others contain more varnish (so they cure harder, usually faster too).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T21:20:23.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5196" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5204" CreationDate="2016-12-29T21:22:12.357" Score="5" ViewCount="398" Body="&lt;p&gt;A while back, I went on a spree of replacing handles with wood in some tools/toys I had, since I quite liked the feel. In the past couple years, I've picked up competitive gaming, and would like the comfort of wood in &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51CdKCZnG3L.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;my controller&lt;/a&gt;, if possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, compared to my previous projects, this would be handled much more extensively, and would require much smaller parts for buttons/stick caps, so I don't trust my judgment on what a reasonable choice of wood and finish would be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've worked with redwood in the past, and it seems like it would hold up well for the grips both from past experience and from some articles I've found. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the buttons and stick caps, I'm guessing that no wood I choose will be able to have the fine detail necessary while still maintaining the strength required, and that I'll need to instead make the structural portion out of metal or plastic, and add wood caps. Given that, at that point, fine detail is the main issue, I was thinking basswood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never used a finish, since longevity was never really a concern. Having the feeling of wood is rather the point of the project, but from my research, that seems at odds with decent protection from wear/hand oils. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do redwood and basswood seem like reasonable choices for this project? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any finishes that wouldn't feel like varnish, but would also protect the wood from frequent handling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3099" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T23:07:17.577" Title="What wood/finish would hold up to use in a video game controller?" Tags="|wood-selection|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5197" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5445" CreationDate="2016-12-29T21:26:46.640" Score="2" ViewCount="668" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been asked to build a small swing set frame for a baby's swing. It will be a couple feet tall by a couple feet wide and will use 1x2 minimum lumber in an A frame shape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never worked with wood before, so I have the minimum of tools for this project such as a drill, hand saw, and a speed square. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be a simple way to join the three pieces of wood at the top of the frame using only these tools. I would prefer to bolt them together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3102" LastEditorUserId="3327" LastEditDate="2017-02-20T11:49:49.777" LastActivityDate="2017-02-20T11:49:49.777" Title="How do I join wood in an A frame for a beginner?" Tags="|technique|joinery|hand-tools|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5192" CreationDate="2016-12-29T21:34:42.773" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...I feel like there should be a better way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has hand processes written all over it to me but actually I think you've arrived at what might be the best method using the tools you have available. Some things just are a lot of work and there's no getting around it, but you &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; get better at doing it the more of them you do. It won't get any less boring though!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people with access to a stationary belt or disk sander would do this sort of thing using that. Obviously it would be better to first saw away each corner at 45° to reduce the amount of sanding required, but it could be done purely using the sander fitted with a coarse belt and many people who rely on sanding a lot wouldn't hesitate to do it that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T21:34:42.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5199" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5200" CreationDate="2016-12-29T14:54:33.017" Score="2" ViewCount="1453" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to build a simple wood coat rack and would like to utilize shaker pegs to hold the coats.  I am a bit concerned with the strength of the individual pegs, especially during the winters (i live in the Midwest United States).  Does anyone know how much weight each peg should be able to handle (assuming its properly secured)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ones I am looking at are 3 1/2 inches long.  I think the insertable length is 1 inch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/p/General-Tools-3-1-2-in-Shaker-Pegs-317000/202252115&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.homedepot.com/p/General-Tools-3-1-2-in-Shaker-Pegs-317000/202252115&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D8ykA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D8ykA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3105" OwnerDisplayName="Steve Salowitz" LastEditorUserId="3327" LastEditDate="2017-02-20T11:49:23.713" LastActivityDate="2017-02-20T11:49:23.713" Title="What is the weight limit for shaker pegs?" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5199" CreationDate="2016-12-29T16:33:07.873" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much weight they will bear is dependent in part on how they are installed - as with any wood object, the grain orientation matters. Arranging the grain to be vertical will be strongest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practical terms, if you hang coats (even heavy ones, multiple, and/or with junk in pockets) rather than use them for gym equipment they are likely to be just fine if they are at all well made. Those look to be a bit bigger than the ones that have all that sort of stuff hung on them in my hallway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They were originally designed to be able to hang (lightweight) chairs, mirrors, cabinets and lamps as well as clothing from. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AT01K.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AT01K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;chain and mirror&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FNB3P.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FNB3P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cabinet&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nc6FO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nc6FO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lamp&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;The usual problem, rather than breakage, is that the hole they are in deforms or loosens and the pegs fall out. Few vendors seem to have opted to thread the peg and hole, which I think helps with that problem. Wedging from the back can also help, but requires mounting the pegs to the board before the board is mounted to the wall (or some creativity in wedging.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3334" OwnerDisplayName="Ecnerwal" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T16:45:59.427" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5199" CreationDate="2016-12-29T22:10:54.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use wood glue to secure the peg in place. As long as the peg fits snugly into the hole it is being inserted into, you should have no problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drill the hole to the same diameter as the portion of the peg being inserted. You're aiming for the pegs to be tight enough that you have to press them in by hand, but not so tight that you'd have to pound them in with a hammer. From the Q&amp;amp;A on Home Depot, it sounds like they are just a tad under 1/2&quot;. So a 1/2&quot; drill bit would probably do the trick. Make sure the holes are straight and you don't accidentally ream them wider. If you're careful, you can do this by hand. A drill press would certainly help, if you have access to one. Or you can fashion a simple drill guide like this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ANwAj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ANwAj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Drill guide&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Image credit: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theenglishwoodworker.com/cant-see-straight/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The English Woodworker&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as the pegs fit snugly in their holes, wood glue will keep them there. It doesn't need to be anything special; standard PVA glue such as Titebond I, II, or III would do. They should have no problem supporting the weight of coats and anything else you're likely to put on a coat rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T22:10:54.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5199" CreationDate="2016-12-29T22:20:00.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Excluding a physical limitation of the individual peg&lt;/em&gt; (see note bottom) I don't think you'd easily exceed the weight limit for pegs like this with any reasonable loads you'd subject them to. And my definition of 'reasonable load' here would extend to maybe six or seven heavy jackets with whatever is in their pockets, along with a shoulder bag, a couple of scarves and a hat. That's on just one peg. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does assume a few things, the first being how tightly the round tenon fits its corresponding hole in the wall board — a very tight fit is good (requiring taps from a mallet to seat the peg) and a loose fit you should make every effort to avoid, although it can be compensated for if necessary*.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then second is the grain orientation of the peg, which is of paramount importance. The one in the sample pic for example, if installed exactly as pictured would be very much weaker than if rotated 90°. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: because these pegs are mass produced without special care being taken as to grain orientation some will be significantly stronger than others, just as with modern hammer, axe and sledge handles. If possible you should select pegs where the grain along the long axis is as straight as possible, not running at a distinct angle. But in any case orienting the grain vertically (viewing the peg end-on) will maximise strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Wedge the round tenon or skew-nail it with a small brad or panel pin, glue in with epoxy, or some combination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T22:20:00.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5196" CreationDate="2016-12-29T22:52:25.433" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both redwood and basswood are on the softer end of the Janka hardness scale, which measures the hardness of woods. But I am having a hard time imagining they'd fail to &quot;hold up&quot; to the kind of (ab)use a gaming controller would take. (Assuming you're not in the habit of slamming them down or throwing them across the room, that is. Which in any case is hard on the materials they're traditionally made from, too!) I think both would be fine choices. As you said, the basswood may be too soft to maintain the fine detail, which I'm assuming you mean is the engraving of the button names and arrow directions. I think basswood would hold its shape just fine. But as I mentioned in my comment, there are certainly woods I would expect to hold that kind of detail. My comment mentioned African blackwood, but I don't think you'd need to go that extreme. Even hard maple would hold up fine, I'd think. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that all woods are stronger along the direction of the length of the grain, so you'll want to design your controller's various parts with this in mind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as finishes go, you're looking for something that is as close to bare wood as possible. My suggestion is: Bare wood! Many hand tools were traditionally left unfinished, and they were expected to take a beating far beyond what you'll be subjecting your controller to. If you leave the wood bare, eventually the oils on your hands will naturally stain the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't think you'd care for that look, another option is to proactively oil it yourself, and then seal it with a coat of paste wax. Traditional oils include tung oil and boiled linseed oil (commonly known as BLO), but there are modern options that look just as good and are much simpler to use, such as Minwax Antique Finishing Oil. Give it two or three coats of oil, waiting the appropriate amount of time between each coat. After oiling, finish it off by applying a coat of paste wax and then buffing it off. The wax will wear off with regular use, so expect to reapply it periodically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if you do go the oil route, you need to be somewhat careful as to which product you choose. Some products, such as Watco Danish oil, are actually a combination stain and varnish. While you may be pleased with the appearance, I suspect it would come with the varnish feel you're looking to avoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever route you take, my advice is to test the finish process on a scrap before you apply it to the final work piece. That way you'll have a much better idea of how it's going to turn out, both in look and feel, before you find yourself in the heartbreaking position of having to sand the finish off and start the finishing process over with something else. Also, if you decide to try out different finishing processes, you can do it on separate scraps, and then compare them side by side to decide which one you want to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2016-12-29T23:07:17.577" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T23:07:17.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5196" CreationDate="2016-12-29T23:03:27.167" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've worked with redwood in the past, and it seems like it would hold up well for the grips both from past experience and from some articles I've found. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In woodworking circles you'll generally be told to rely on hardwoods or fruitwoods where you want a tough, resilient handle for something. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certain hardwoods and fruitwoods were the traditional picks for tool handles of all types for many centuries (and still are today in some cases) and for good reasons as they're strong, tough and generally resistant to splintering. Not that softwoods are necessarily weak, but comparatively they aren't in the same league for this sort of application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While redwood might hold up well enough (it would depend on the piece to a certain extent) I'd be more inclined to go with a close-grained hardwood if possible. There are numerous possibilities but maple would be a good candidate among species that are relatively easy to get, especially if you're in North America, and beech would also make an excellent choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For the buttons and stick caps, I'm guessing that no wood I choose will be able to have the fine detail necessary while still maintaining the strength required, and that I'll need to instead make the structural portion out of metal or plastic, and add wood caps. Given that, at that point, fine detail is the main issue, I was thinking basswood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basswood is fairly soft to very soft (wood varies) so would be a very poor choice I think for something like this. You won't easily get it but a much better choice would be rosewood. Other dense, oily/resinous tropical hardwoods would also work well, but all tend to be expensive and some are no longer available commercially because trade in them has been banned due to over-logging at source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might consider instead using a resin-impregnated wood such as those sold for pen turners and as handle blanks for knifemakers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've never used a finish, since longevity was never really a concern. Having the feeling of wood is rather the point of the project, but from my research, that seems at odds with decent protection from wear/hand oils. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't need to protect from hand oils, they don't actually pose any risk to wood*. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Up to a certain point finishes don't protect wood from much in the way of wear. You'll get some protection from minor scrapes and gentler hits that would otherwise result in a ding or small dent, but in general the finish gives when the wood gives from an impact so really what finish is doing in general is protecting &lt;em&gt;the appearance&lt;/em&gt; of a piece, not so much protecting from wear outright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go with a tight-grained hard wood for the handles you could easily go without a finish, just sand to a fine surface and use it immediately. If you would prefer to finish then there are many alternatives, from oiling using a straight oil (e.g. BLO) or a penetrating finish (e.g. &quot;Danish oil&quot; or &quot;tung oil finish&quot;) through to shellac or varnish. All of these options are used by someone out there to finish their tool handles, and each user likes how the wood looks and feels, and how it wears over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*In fact handling and the inevitable buildup of skin oils etc. in the surface are one of the traditional ways that some things were finished, this is sometimes referred to as &quot;hand finish&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T23:03:27.167" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5205" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5206" CreationDate="2016-12-30T03:02:01.957" Score="4" ViewCount="432" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm slowly gathering accessories for my table saw.  Most of the sled plans I've seen have wooden rails to slide in the table grooves.  But I've also seen some metal rails and I wonder if they wouldn't be more precise.  They aren't cheap so I wouldn't get a bunch, just a pair to move from jig to jig.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the different materials what would make me choose one over the other? What would I need to consider when choosing my rail material for my sled(s)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1214" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-12-30T06:01:01.673" LastActivityDate="2016-12-30T06:01:01.673" Title="What are the considerations for different guide materials in a sled jig?" Tags="|table-saw|jig|tolerance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5205" CreationDate="2016-12-30T03:24:34.183" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, the biggest advantage of cutting your own guides is that you fine-tune them to your table saw's miter tracks. The miter tracks have manufacturing tolerances, and are probably not exactly 3/4 inches. Worse, each miter track is probably a little different in width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When cutting your own guides you can sneak up on the width for each track to have zero play while moving smoothly in the track. This should give you a guide rail that is the perfect width throughout its length, providing full support to avoid side-to-side movement for the entire cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main disadvantage of wood that it will change dimensions with changes in humidity. Choosing a type of wood that has minimal variation with humidity changes (such as cherry) as well as aligning the growth rings to run perpendicular to the face of the table should minimize the problem. Plywood would be more stable, and some people use various plastics (HDPE springs to mind). I have had great luck with Baltic birch plywood for my guides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Metal guides are much harder to fine tune, both if they are too narrow and when they are too wide. In addition, you are combining manufacturing tolerances on both the miter tracks as well as the metal guides. To counter that, most commercial guides have little plastic cams or small screws that you can rotate until the fit is perfect. But this only gives you so many contact points, and I would be concerned about their long term durability (since there is a small contact area rubbing against the miter slots).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, the plan to move the rails from jig to jig will probably not work in the long run. Using small wood screws to hold the jig to the rail won't hold to many assembly-disassembly cycles. Using machine screws with nuts would probably be better in that regard, but I would still be concerned with re-alignment issues after reassembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastEditorUserId="534" LastEditDate="2016-12-30T03:55:39.363" LastActivityDate="2016-12-30T03:55:39.363" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5207" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5214" CreationDate="2016-12-30T06:47:51.547" Score="6" ViewCount="2580" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in the process of restoring an old 14&quot; bandsaw. I would like to disassemble it as much as possible and clean each part and remove as much saw dust and rust as I can. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first major step is to remove the upper wheel but it seems stuck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zvYg5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zvYg5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have removed the nut in the middle and applied what I thought was a reasonable amount of force but it remains where it is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to apply to much force or bang it because I don't want to damage the bearing or the bolt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on how I can remove the wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2856" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2016-12-31T23:19:09.190" LastActivityDate="2017-01-01T08:39:35.413" Title="How to remove the upper wheel of a bandsaw?" Tags="|tool-maintenance|band-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5209" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-31T16:04:50.110" Score="6" ViewCount="149" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to woodworking, and I am using Sketchup. I wonder if there is a woodwork plan software that I can export sizing chart after I have my design finished, so I can just follow it not list it on my note?&#xA;Or, how you do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2578" LastEditorUserId="2578" LastEditDate="2017-01-02T02:38:53.860" LastActivityDate="2017-01-02T02:38:53.860" Title="A woodwork plan software that I can export sizing chart?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5210" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-31T17:07:24.970" Score="2" ViewCount="176" Body="&lt;p&gt;A long time ago I tore a branch off a tree, barked it and finished it with a few coats of varnish. It was more fun than functional. The stick was not that straight so pressure from using it caused it to bow while walking. I still have it but it made me wonder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I need to consider when selecting wood for a walking stick? I have heard of people using saplings, roots and just branches in general. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not interested in answers that are just favoring species e.g. diamond willow etc. but something of a checklist when it comes to selecting wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2017-01-06T14:08:45.887" Title="What criteria do I need to consider when selecting wood for a walking stick?" Tags="|wood-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5209" CreationDate="2016-12-31T22:31:35.497" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once I have my design complete in Sketchup, I find it useful to make my own cut list. What I do is make a copy of the file or create a new layer to serve as the cut list. I usually have an idea of what kind of wood it's going to be, so I use the Tape Measure tool to lay out a grid of the board or sheet good sizes I'm thinking of purchasing. Then I fit the pieces to those boards with an eye towards keeping common cuts together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I was thinking about building some Tetris shelves as a Christmas present for a friend. So first I designed the shelves for each Tetris piece:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GtThm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GtThm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Tetris shelves&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I created a separate layer to plan my cut list. I have a pretty good idea that I would want to build this out of poplar, and my local hardwood dealer supplies rough cut poplar up to 16' lengths. So I laid out a grid with markings for 8' and 16' boards, 12&quot; wide. Then I made a copy of each shelf, and laid out each piece for the shelf on its own board:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o0CfI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o0CfI.png&quot; alt=&quot;Initial cut list for Tetris shelves&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that I'm not accounting for kerf here, so I want to be sure to give myself plenty of extra room at the ends. I know that each cut will take up about 1/8&quot;, so for example the cuts for the leftmost I-shaped shelf will require a minimum of four cuts, and if each has a 1/8&quot; kerf, that's 1/8&quot; x 4 = 1/2&quot; minimum that I haven't actually accounted for in my layout. I definitely want at least a couple of inches of play, and preferably more, and from this rough initial layout, it looks like I'll be fine. But it's something you'd want to keep in mind if your tolerances are getting tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might notice that even at this early stage, I'm already thinking about how I can minimize the number of blade changes I'll need. the sides of each shelf have a rabbet that will hold a backboard. I've lined up the rabbets on each board so I can set up a stacked dado set and run the rabbet in one pass on each board. In fact, once the boards are jointed, planed, and ripped to a common width, I'll run the rabbets for each board before I cut any of the sides to length. Cutting the rabbets in the same pass ensures they'll all match each other when I cross cut the sides of the shelves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next step is to figure out how I'm going to do my cuts in a way that allows me to set stops for common sizes. Just like with the rabbets, the idea is to set up my tools once for each length that needs to be cut, and make all the cuts for that length at the same time. That way, even if I'm off a little bit in where I've set the stop, I'll be off the same way for each board of the same size. After following this step for the Tetris shelves project, this is what I'm left with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/16NGI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/16NGI.png&quot; alt=&quot;Tetris shelves final cut list&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rabbets line up. All boards of the same length are grouped together. I have shrunk my required lumber purchase by one board; instead of needing seven 16' boards, I only need six. I have everything grouped together enough that I can set a stop to 28&quot;, and then cut two of those. Then set my stop for 14&quot;, and cut five from one board, and five from another. Then set my stop for 21&quot;, and cut one from the cutoff of the first board, one from the cutoff of the second, and one from the cutoff of the third. Etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going through this exercise helps me think through the entire project. I can do it keeping in mind the materials I'm going to use. It helps me consider each tool change I'm planning on making, allowing me to group common cuts together without changing the tool set up, which in turn helps with overall consistency. For me, this is worth not having an automated tool that produces the results. Once I've gone through this whole exercise, I'm much less likely to make a mistake once I'm making sawdust in the shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2016-12-31T22:31:35.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5210" CreationDate="2016-12-31T23:02:10.973" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any hardwood could be used for a walking stick. I would expect that a diameter of 1 1/4&quot; or greater should provide enough strength to resist the bending you mentioned. If you are seeking a natural stick avoid any wood that has been on the ground too long.  A few field tests for various candidates should be an adequate test for strength.  All of that is pretty standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real test for a Great Walking Stick is character. In my book, the more pronounced its natural form and specific flaws revealing it's story of growth and endurance, the more appealing it is. A good piece with gnarly twists and bulges at the cap gives the staff personality.  Of course this majestic head should resolve into a straight strong shaft and solid foot. Once selected the candidate should be broken in by adventurous hikes in unique locations.  The combination of its unique character and shared history will result in the bond between man and stick that is critical to success of you both as a team.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2016-12-31T23:02:10.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5210" CreationDate="2017-01-01T00:55:30.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally you want tough, resilient wood that isn't prone to splintering. The list of woods that meet all three requirements to a certain degree is looong. That there's a much shorter list of woods that have been and/or are currently favoured for walking sticks might seem to show that if you can pick and choose you select stuff that's particularly strong but actually a great deal of what was chosen historically came down to its looks (colour as well as grain/structure) and not due to its inherent great strength. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A sizeable chunk of walking stick production uses raw material where the stick in its entirety is supplied by the raw material, i.e. bamboo shafts, branches or saplings, which then require minimal processing (rather than forming a dowel/spindle by cutting away material from a board or riven length). While this can be inherently strong material with no weak axis it shouldn't be forgotten that their stock would be essentially free. Any wonder a craft of this sort would grow to favour a raw material that didn't cost them anything! So the species that are chosen for this may not be as superbly well suited as their glowing marketing says they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond what certain species can provide you do have to select your stock carefully because all strong woods can have weak individual examples. So just as was said in an Answer from a long time back you should ignore the species, and ask yourself &quot;What's &lt;em&gt;this piece&lt;/em&gt; like?&quot; That was in relation to tool handles (for things like axes) where the requirements are much more stringent but it can still apply here to a lesser degree. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-01-01T00:55:30.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5207" CreationDate="2017-01-01T07:40:20.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I attempted something along the lines of @Graphus's suggestion but could t get it to work. There wasn't enough space behind the wheel to put anything there to brace it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I banged the bolt lightly with a small hammer several times and noticed the wheel had moved a bit. I continued this for a while and pulled the wheel simultaneously and the wheel came off!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v2G3m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v2G3m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2856" LastEditorUserId="2856" LastEditDate="2017-01-01T08:39:35.413" LastActivityDate="2017-01-01T08:39:35.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5127" CreationDate="2017-01-01T12:54:19.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not a true answer to your question, however you say that your lathe spindle is plain (I take to mean unthreaded). Any spindle adaptor would therefore need a grub screw or similar to secure it. It would not be a difficult task for someone with a metal lathe to produce an adaptor.&#xA;My thought would be to use something like a drill arbour. You can certainly buy 2MT to ¾&quot; 16tpi arbours, you would need to check the taper used on your lathe. To safely use with a chuck you would need one that takes a drawbar through the lathes headstock to secure in place.&#xA;In a comment you said you had been told this is a metal working chuck, but didn't see the difference. The main give away is that it is three jaw - ideal for holding perfectly round bar stock, less ideal for softer and less round wood stock. Chuck's designed for wood &lt;em&gt;tend&lt;/em&gt; to be of the four jaw scroll (self centering) variety, and &lt;em&gt;tend&lt;/em&gt; to use a dovetail or grip jaw rather than the step jaws often found on engineering/metal chucks. Of course an engineering chuck is perfectly usable for wood turning, it just &lt;em&gt;may not be&lt;/em&gt; as good at holding wood as a chuck specifically designed for the purpose ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3110" LastActivityDate="2017-01-01T12:54:19.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5216" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5219" CreationDate="2017-01-01T15:27:55.423" Score="4" ViewCount="1196" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking buying one of these &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000051WSE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/Incra-MITER1000-18T-Miter-Miter-gauge/dp/B000051WSE/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1483284237&amp;amp;sr=1-5&amp;amp;keywords=incra+miter+gauge&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen many guys using a table saw jig for this. Wouldn't the above be good enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="497" LastActivityDate="2017-01-02T07:58:52.373" Title="Is a quality miter gauge precise enough for cutting picture frames?" Tags="|miter-joint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5217" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10191" CreationDate="2016-12-23T23:05:26.503" Score="7" ViewCount="693" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a lovely oak table; most of its surface looks as pristine as the day I got it, e.g.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FgOo6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FgOo6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Parts of the table surface are getting damaged -- the finish is wearing off and the pores of the grain are exposed and feel pitted to the touch, e.g.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZULIX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZULIX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas why this is?  It looks like the areas where this is happening are the areas that get the most sun (through a skylight, not directly overhead), but I haven't seen sun damage like this.  Perhaps somebody else has?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can rule out water damage or heavy use -- the table is lightly used and wear doesn't seem to be a factor as some of the most used parts look the most pristine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions for an intervention, short of or including refinishing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3133" OwnerDisplayName="Kevin Cain" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2017-01-01T15:55:13.650" LastActivityDate="2019-12-26T16:55:50.893" Title="What is damaging this finished oak surface?" Tags="|finishing|physical-protection|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5218" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5220" CreationDate="2017-01-01T17:16:24.650" Score="2" ViewCount="1026" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is warped like the picture shows, basically one of the corners moved out of the plane of the door and moved everything with it :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lPacO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lPacO.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure if this is because the wood dried out or because I did something wrong. I carefully measured everything when I built it ..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="497" LastActivityDate="2017-01-02T08:22:43.890" Title="How do I fix a warped shoji door?" Tags="|warp|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5216" CreationDate="2017-01-01T18:06:37.280" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cut miters under the assumption that getting to 45 degrees perfectly is difficult. My solution is to use a miter sled to make the cuts.  The sled is uses a 90 degree angle set as close to 45 degrees to the saw blade as possible.  If the angle is off a little it does not matter.  Cut your boards placed on one side for one half of the miter and the opposite side to complete the joint.  The sum total angle will always be 90 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EoFkl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EoFkl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Miter sled&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-01-01T23:34:48.377" LastActivityDate="2017-01-01T23:34:48.377" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5218" CreationDate="2017-01-01T18:14:52.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would guess that there are two possible sources for the problem.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, your long board may be warping.  This will be the result of grain direction or stress due to humidity/moisture changes.  Search this site for other Questions dealing with warping to get more insight into how warping occurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, your screwed connection may be putting stress on the corner resulting in the lifting.  Try disassembling the piece and see if the boards lay flat.  If so, it may be that you have over tightened the connection and created stress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that might help is to make certain that the boards are laying flat on the work table during assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2017-01-01T18:14:52.690" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5157" CreationDate="2017-01-02T01:44:48.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Marine plywood had no voids.  Other types of plywood often have voids in the inner plys. This is why marine plywood is so expensive.  I assume baltic birch has voids. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In marine plywood these voids have been filled with inlays to insure strength and reliable performance under the stresses that a boat is subject to.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's my understanding that the glue is the same for all plywood these days.  It did not used to be.  Other that the absence of voids, I don't think marine plywood is any more resistant to water than other plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="309" LastEditorUserId="309" LastEditDate="2017-01-02T01:49:53.307" LastActivityDate="2017-01-02T01:49:53.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5216" CreationDate="2017-01-02T07:58:52.373" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have seen many guys using a table saw jig for this. Wouldn't the above be good enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on your standards, not the quality of the mitre gauge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the section on mitre joints in a few books shows, some people would never accept a mitre cut for a picture frame straight from the saw (any saw) but would always refine it. In the home workshop this is generally done using a mitre shooting board. Here's a pic of one from a previous Answer in case you're not familiar:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/luh4F.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/luh4F.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Basic mitre shooting board&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/scrollsawing/shooting-board/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wood Magazine&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to giving a superbly smooth surface to the cut face (important for the best glue joint, although mitres should nearly always be reinforced in some way regardless) this allows you to sneak up on exact lengths in a way that no saw will allow — hundredths of a millimetre/a few thousandths of an inch at a time. It also guarantees your mitres are at &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; 45° if you build it right, each and every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-01-02T07:58:52.373" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5218" CreationDate="2017-01-02T08:22:43.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a good chance this is unfixable I'm afraid*. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The likely causes are the wood itself (HD wood being generally of mediocre or poor quality, although standards apparently vary widely across the country), a minor discrepancy in the corner joint or in the way the pocket screws were drilled for or driven home. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the first case there's no way to fix it reliably, not in a completed frame. You can try bending the piece back to flat on the workbench using clamp pressure but that nearly never works, and it stresses glue joints so will weaken them (not just the joint at the high corner but possibly all through the structure) which is bad news for long-term stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the second and third cases unless you break the joint apart and try to fix the direct cause the joint as it exists will do its best to keep the shape as it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*It's usually best when something like this occurs to take the thing apart and earmark the wood for future projects. And once you have it apart if the wood itself was the cause you'll see it immediately, as one or more of the boards (my money is on the stile) won't be sitting flat like it did prior to assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-01-02T08:22:43.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5224" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5225" CreationDate="2017-01-02T20:10:07.623" Score="4" ViewCount="3917" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reclaimed barn wood planks - about 100 years old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heat treated and planed/sanded to 3/4&quot; thickness, by lumber mill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each 4.5 foot X 6 inch plank weighs on average 5 lbs (and there are 99 of them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Need the weight down of the wood, to at least half:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://diy.stackexchange.com/a/103475/20858&quot;&gt;https://diy.stackexchange.com/a/103475/20858&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can barn wood planks be thinned or will it just fall apart...or get messed up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, how thin can it go?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Had carpenter sample plane 4 pieces. He got it down to 3/8&quot; (half of what it was). Some pieces had large cracks than others and for those, glue was needed to get them back together. No cupping so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TGGSs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TGGSs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3115" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:22:17.110" LastActivityDate="2017-03-04T21:32:26.103" Title="Can barn wood planks be planed and how thin?" Tags="|thickness-planer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5224" CreationDate="2017-01-02T20:21:37.433" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As wood ages it will dry out and become more rigid. Most portable thicknessers can get the wood down to approx. 1/4&quot;.  Any thinner and the wood is at risk of tear out which will destroy the plank as it feeds in. Different species will perform better than others. How thin you want to go also depends on how you will be using the wood and how the grain runs through the piece. The thinner the piece the more likely it is to warp or cup.  You can search this sight for more insight into the relationship of the grain and the tendency to warp.  The risk of cupping will increase as you get wider and thinner, depending upon how much the grain lines curve in the cross section of the depth.  I would recommend testing on a sample or two and leaving it sit for a week or two to see how this wood performs. I also suggest planing in small depth increments to limit the risk of  tear out especially as you get closer to 1/4&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2017-01-02T20:21:37.433" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5226" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-02T22:05:28.393" Score="0" ViewCount="2616" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some antique (100+ yrs.) oak chairs that have developed cracks in the seat.  In a &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3735/what-options-do-i-have-to-repair-this-chair&quot;&gt;previous question&lt;/a&gt; I asked how to better support the seats.  Now I am finally getting around to working on them and want to re-glue the splits that have developed over the years.  Some cracks extend across the full length of the seat and these can simply be clamped and glued as any other wood slabs would be.  However, some cracks do not extend the entire length of the chair (front to back) and getting the glue in the full depth of the gaps will be difficult.  I have never injected glue and am not sure what the best varieties and techniques would be to get maximum contact and the highest glue strength. Any recommendations and discussions are welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also some areas where thin splinters of wood have been lost and I would like to fill the gaps for a finished look.  I have considered using clear epoxy but am uncertain what dyes or colorants would give the least obtrusive appearance and accept new varnish finish well. Again any recommendations are welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2017-01-25T21:46:47.257" Title="Techniques for repair wood chair seats" Tags="|glue|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5224" CreationDate="2017-01-03T01:10:40.113" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can barn wood planks be thinned or will it just fall apart...or get messed up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depends on the wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All wood varies and &quot;barn wood&quot; is by no means a single thing — not a single species, not one age, not the same thickness, some will have been painted fairly regularly, some not in living memory and so forth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But even with wood from the same source you can't rely on it to be uniform or to behave uniformly, boards of similar thickness from the same side of the one building? Similar (ish), but don't expect uniform results from each piece. Much better to expect that planks from the same building &lt;em&gt;won't&lt;/em&gt; all behave the same way than to assume they will. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this is really impossible to answer except to say &lt;em&gt;maybe&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;how thin can it go?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again it depends on the wood. On paper you can thin a board to almost any thickness that's still usable (down to veneer thicknesses in the best of cases) but whether &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; wood will be stable and hold together well is going to depend greatly on how weathered it is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another factor is how you're thinning it. A planer/thicknesser will put the wood under more stress than hand planing down or resawing to the same thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to cover the subject more broadly, can recovered wood be planed down to thickness? Absolutely. In general you want to do this by planing wood off &lt;em&gt;both faces equally&lt;/em&gt; if possible. This won't always be desirable with reclaimed wood where you'll want to keep more (or all) of the exposed surface because of its patina or character. Just be aware this isn't as safe as removing material from both sides and take extra care to try to stave off warping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When planing down any wood (even new wood from a reliable yard that dries their material well) you want to either use it immediately after it's at final thickness or protect it from warping in some way as it will want to warp from even the most casual of handling errors — laying it on the bench surface and leaving it there for a few hours or longer. Where you can't use the wood quite soon after processing I think most pros will sticker it (stack the boards with sticks in between) and weight it down, but some will wrap the processed boards in plastic to slow or prevent it losing (or gaining) any moisture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-01-03T01:10:40.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5226" CreationDate="2017-01-03T01:46:46.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;some cracks do not extend the entire length of the chair (front to back) and getting the glue in the full depth of the gaps will be difficult. I have never injected glue and am not sure what the best varieties and techniques would be to get maximum contact and the highest glue strength. Any recommendations and discussions are welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to be using PVA-type glue for this (white or yellow) there are three main tricks I've seen in recent years for getting glue deep into cracks are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;injecting with a hypodermic (may require thinning the glue so this is the least desirable option where maximum strength is required as you might inadvertently over-dilute the glue)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;using a vacuum to suck the glue from one face through to the other (obviously the crack needs to extend through the entire thickness of the piece for this to work)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wedging the crack open slightly, slipping plastic, or metal shim (e.g. aluminium from a soda can) into it and then spreading glue on the shim and pulling it through which scrapes the glue onto the inside of the crack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of these methods will give you a complete and uniform glue film on the joint surface which is what you want, so to maximise the strength of what glue bond will form use lots of clamp pressure. Don't worry about starving the joint, this is next to impossible in a home workshop* with any number of clamps, see my Answer in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/670/can-clamps-be-too-tight/711#711&quot;&gt;Can clamps be too tight?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Probably actually impossible in most cases as you'd exceed the crushing strength of the wood if you attempted to over-clamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2017-01-03T01:46:46.650" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2580" CreationDate="2017-01-03T13:39:09.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have all three of them of good quality each. Each caliper costed me more than 25 EUR. I have to say I did not spent 200 EUR on digital, so &lt;em&gt;maybe&lt;/em&gt; they are better?.. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So. In my case, &lt;strong&gt;dial caliper&lt;/strong&gt; beats all of them. Second is &lt;strong&gt;vernier&lt;/strong&gt; due its simplicity, as long as you don't need very small measurements. Third place takes digital and it is constantly gets off. You open-close it few times and you always get different numbers. When you open/close it way too much, it gets badly off. Mainly because dial has a rail with &quot;teeth&quot; that makes the guiding wheel impossible to slip, while digital rolls over the plain metal. That would explain the general design flaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another pretty important thing what I really &lt;em&gt;hate&lt;/em&gt; digital caliper is this: you basically cannot use the scale on it, because it is just off or just not exactly under the LCD display. Dial caliper, in contrast, has a knife-sharpened edge that stays exactly on the scale. So you look at the dial scale only &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; you already looked at the main scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I suggest either dial or vernier. Ultimately just get both of them. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; in response to comments below, I added the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here. You have it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, I re-nulled digital. Yes, I opened digital slowly, without jerks. Yes, I tried my best, and digital still sucks. No, digital does not gets fixed, it is just broken from the beginning. No, I do not recommend buying it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uVpm5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uVpm5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Um4vM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Um4vM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/apOlE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/apOlE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3118" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2017-01-10T10:28:59.683" LastActivityDate="2017-01-10T10:28:59.683" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4326" CreationDate="2017-01-03T20:28:10.410" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found that the type of router bits that do this is called &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.toolstoday.com/c-337-plunge-form-router-bits.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;plunging bits&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="328" LastActivityDate="2017-01-03T20:28:10.410" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4326" CreationDate="2017-01-03T21:33:19.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not something you would cut out of one piece, but is almost certainly a piece of flat stock with a back band, or combination of mouldings simulating a backband on either side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of thinking strictly reductive, think about breaking down the moulding into multiple profile that can be built up to what you see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xSZJx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xSZJx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastActivityDate="2017-01-03T21:33:19.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5232" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5238" CreationDate="2017-01-03T23:19:32.947" Score="1" ViewCount="5040" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to understand what would be the end result of connecting a shop vac which is having a 2.5&quot; diameter hose to the cyclone and using a 4&quot; hose to connect to my tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this kill the CFM, pressure, etc ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it better than having 2.5&quot; hoses everywhere ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1451" LastActivityDate="2017-01-04T11:26:27.107" Title="ShopVac with Cyclone hoses, 2.5 or 4.0?" Tags="|dust-collection|shop-vac|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5232" CreationDate="2017-01-03T23:48:03.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, folks use 2.5&quot;  hose for shop vacuums, which work at a high pressure differential but low volume, and 4&quot; hose for dust collectors, which are designed to move more air but usually operate at a lower pressure differential. Tools for tasks...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2017-01-03T23:48:03.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5234" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-04T04:53:17.843" Score="3" ViewCount="381" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife wants a farm house table and prefers conifer wood; i.e., not a hardwood. I have some 5/4 jack pine that has been kiln dried and aged somewhat. Is this a suitable wood for a kitchen table? How about the thickness? What is the typical thickness for a pine table? The sap content looks little higher than white pine but the grain is much nicer. The wood choices I have are native to central Wisconsin, USA. Thoughts? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3120" LastEditorUserId="2856" LastEditDate="2017-01-05T06:47:20.010" LastActivityDate="2017-01-05T06:47:20.010" Title="Is kiln dried jack pine suitable for a kitchen table?" Tags="|design|wood-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5235" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-04T09:16:30.407" Score="1" ViewCount="658" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this beautiful old saw:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oZKJ8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oZKJ8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Saw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ignoring that it is in need of some TLC, can anyone tell me what this tab is on the top?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CuNvf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CuNvf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it serve a purpose or is it purely decorative?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2856" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-01-12T13:52:55.683" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T13:52:55.683" Title="What is this tab on this old saw?" Tags="|hand-tools|hand-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2017-01-25T01:11:58.780" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5235" CreationDate="2017-01-04T09:59:40.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is the nib. Bizarrely nobody knows what they're for, in fact they might not be &lt;em&gt;for&lt;/em&gt; anything really but just a decorative feature. There are some theories however..... more than one of which might be correct! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chris Schwarz wrote a bit on it &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/2-great-uses-for-a-saws-nib&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-01-04T09:59:40.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5234" CreationDate="2017-01-04T10:22:23.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is this a suitable wood for a kitchen table? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just about any wood one cares to name is good enough for a kitchen table. Obviously not balsa, but then who can buy enough of that to build a table from anyway? :-D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kitchen tables were, and still are, very commonly made from pine and while modern sensibilities are that softwoods aren't tough enough for this kind of thing the historical examples prove that they can more than hold up to use. Oldest pine table I've seen with my own eyes (still in service and possibly having been continuously in service) might be celebrating its 200th birthday round about now, and there are older examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How about the thickness? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5/4 is fine as far as thickness goes, but you might want to install stiffening battens on the underside or attach very well to the leg assembly to help prevent any tendency to warp (a waterproof finish will help greatly in this regard also).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is the typical thickness for a pine table? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure that there is one. These days with the modern Internet-driven design ethos the answer is probably &lt;em&gt;as thick as possible&lt;/em&gt; — made from a glue-up of 2x4s or something like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Historically I'd hazard somewhere around the 2&quot; mark might have been common, if not typical. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5/4 might seem overly thin in relation to those but that's still quite substantial, even with the minor loss in thickness you'll experience planing, scraping or sanding to finish off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-01-04T10:22:23.753" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5232" CreationDate="2017-01-04T11:26:27.107" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You definitely do not want to decrease your hose size as you get closer to the dust collector/vacuum. Just about every shop I have worked in has had confusion over dust collection piping, usually because they try to think of it like an HVAC system, or something that is pushing air. This is wrong, because you are pulling air, so if you think about it, when you step down from a 4&quot; to 2.5&quot; you are only able to pull as much air as fits in that 2.5&quot; hose back to the vac, so in the 4&quot; hose that same volume of air will be moving MUCH slower from the tool until it gets to the 2.5&quot; portion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inversely if start smaller, say 1.25&quot;, then air flow moves faster until it gets to the larger hose. Think of this like pinching, or partially capping the end of a hose. You will notice a difference in the pressure, and thus the velocity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, you want to avoid changing sizes except when branching in another line, and then you need to increase the trunk line to accomodate the added CFM's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a good source of information for designing a system: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.airhand.com/designing/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dust Collection Design&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastActivityDate="2017-01-04T11:26:27.107" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5226" CreationDate="2017-01-04T20:40:23.400" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not quite an answer to the question as asked, but to simply keep the cracks from expanding further, you could use butterfly keys.  This is a block of wood shaped like an hourglass, or a butterfly.  The butterfly key is inset across the crack, then planed or sanded flush.  The appearance can be more or less pronounced, depending on the similarity of the wood used for the key to the wood in the chair, or the key could be placed on the underside of the chair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should say that I have not used butterfly keys myself, and I'm not sure if they would deal well with the stresses encountered by a chair seat.  They are more typically used for slab table tops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2017-01-04T20:40:23.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5240" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5243" CreationDate="2017-01-05T00:40:41.180" Score="4" ViewCount="1340" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made a utility-grade shelving unit for one of our extra-bedroom closets:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8RXcR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8RXcR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oSbDH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oSbDH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stiles and cleats are resawn, cherry-picked kiln-dried dimensional SPF from the big orange store. The shelves are that cheap chinese 18mm ply (won't do that again, but seems to be working out okay). I banded the front of each shelf with 3/8&quot; of the same KD SPF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was originally planning to paint everything with 1 coat primer and 2 coats alkyd enamel, to match the trim you see on the closet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as I'm getting nearer that step, I'm dreading the extended painting effort. I won't have enough room to paint more than a couple shelves at a time, so I'll end up going through more than 20 clean-up cycles with my brushes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It caused me to wonder. Is there a simpler approach, like maybe wipe-on or water-based finish that will get near the toughness of well-cured alkyd trim enamel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was considering a wipe-on oil/varnish type of finish as I don't mind a natural finish instead of the white, but I wasn't sure that would hold up well. Most of the shelves will get plastic (polyethylene) tubs slid back and forth on them a couple hundred times over its life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2017-01-05T22:35:28.480" Title="Easy but tough shelving finish" Tags="|finishing|plywood|finish-selection|cabinetry|varnish|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5240" CreationDate="2017-01-05T01:27:05.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd rent a paint sprayer. At my local evil orange, that's 75 bucks a day. Prep (lots of plastic) the night before. Get a thorough primer on first; let it dry. Get one finish coat on all sides. If you've run out of time, you can roll your second finish coat by hand on the shelf tops and fronts. If you don't run out of time, you'll get three coats in and pat yourself on the back for a hard day well spent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2017-01-05T01:27:05.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5242" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5244" CreationDate="2017-01-05T04:50:40.887" Score="5" ViewCount="698" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building frame and panel sides for a cabinet, which I've never done before, and had a question about the glue up. I'm use mortise and tenons to make the frame and the panel will be floating inside a dado to allow to wood movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that you first apply glue to the 2 bottom joints, put in the 2 stiles to the bottom rail, slide in the frame, then glue and attach the top rail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When gluing any joint, I was told that there should be some squeeze out to ensure that adequate glue was used. But if there is squeeze out from the mortise into the nearby dado, couldn't the panel potentially get glued in place (when the intent is to have it remain free to move a little)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to use less glue in this case to reduce squeeze out, how can you be assured that enough glue has been used to make a strong joint? Is there another way to make a frame and panel to circumvent this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2017-01-05T11:13:18.457" Title="Frame and panel glue up" Tags="|technique|joinery|glue|wood-movement|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5240" CreationDate="2017-01-05T10:54:57.687" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;But as I'm getting nearer that step, I'm dreading the extended painting effort.... I'll end up going through more than 20 clean-up cycles with my brushes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two big tips can help here: &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; clean your brushes between painting sessions, or use rollers. Actually I'd recommend rollers anyway but I'll get to that in a second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Keeping a brush from drying out overnight&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can usually get away with not cleaning a brush between sessions (esp. when using oil-based finishes) if you just wrap it up tightly after you're done. It can also help a lot to first dip the brush into the appropriate solvent so that paint isn't going up into dry bristles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The usual recommendation is to wrap in foil, but I wrap in plastic food wrap first, which provides a more airtight seal, then wrap foil around that. Keeping a brush going from session to session should be absolutely no problem this way, and with luck you can even leave a brush two days or a little longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've left brushes three or four days wrapped in this way to test it out and the finish was beginning to set but the brushes were still usable after a quick rinse. So that can be pushing it, if there's a chance you might be interrupted and a gap of one or two days might extend to the following weekend it's best to go a different route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Keeping a brush from drying out for much longer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can keep a brush wet reliably from weekend to weekend, or longer, if you suspend it in a jar of the appropriate solvent. The solvent should just cover the tips of the bristles, doesn't need to be deep enough to soak their entire length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are commercial holders available that will allow a brush to be suspended in this way but the usual DIY solution is to drill a hole in the handle (usually just above the edge of the ferrule) through which you can thread a stout wire (e.g. a clipped-off length of wire hanger) which goes across the mouth of the jar of solvent, somewhat like as shown in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3258/i-polyed-my-paintbrush-then-procrastination-left-me-in-a-predicament/3262#3262&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You figure some kind of wrapping to keep in the vapour so the solvent doesn't evaporate (foil can again be pressed into service for this, pardon the pun) and you can then leave the brush for ages, confident it won't go hard on you. There is still some evaporation but it's minimal and you can top up periodically if need be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory you can do this indefinitely. Some writers of guides that recommend this tip say they've never cleaned out a brush in 10 years of use. But that's a long time to keep the spirits in the jar topped up in my book!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in general I wouldn't recommend brushes if you have big flat areas to cover. Spraying is the best way if you have the equipment or don't mind renting it, but I'd go with rollers myself nearly always.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rollers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Rollers are the unsung hero of interior painting. They're used a lot for walls of course but their much greater speed and efficiency there doesn't get translated to other projects, we still tend to think &lt;em&gt;brush&lt;/em&gt; when we want to paint stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now brushes can work well, especially a good brush in the hands of someone who knows what they're doing can create a great finish. But most of us are not that guy. A roller can achieve a finish nearly as good, or equally good, &lt;em&gt;in far less time&lt;/em&gt; with almost no effort or experience. And they're easier to clean thoroughly. Rollers FTW!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rollers can also be kept wet between sessions much as suggested above if need be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The shelves are that cheap chinese 18mm ply (won't do that again, but seems to be working out okay). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think as long as the job doesn't require peak strength this kind of cheap ply really isn't that bad. Yes it's a noticeable step down from how typical plywood used to be not that long ago (depends on how good your memory is!) but once painted who can tell? Some of it's even nice enough to have a clear finish put on it to show off the surface veneer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crappy void-filled interior is a non-issue visually in either case because we nearly always edge band or do something so the natural edge doesn't show.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2017-01-05T11:28:33.287" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5242" CreationDate="2017-01-05T11:13:18.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I assume that you first apply glue to the 2 bottom joints, put in the 2 stiles to the bottom rail, slide in the frame, then glue and attach the top rail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pretty much yes. That's textbook in some cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When gluing any joint, I was told that there should be some squeeze out to ensure that adequate glue was used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually yes, but not always with M&amp;amp;T joints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Squeeze-out is vital for a panel glue-up as an indicator that enough glue was spread on the joints, but with a M&amp;amp;T you can get a good glue joint with zero excess coming out of the joint if you leave a little headspace for excess glue to collect in. So it's common advice now to form your mortises slightly deeper than the length of your tenons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;couldn't the panel potentially get glued in place (when the intent is to have it remain free to move a little)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory yes, but in practice if it needed to it would probably pop those glue joints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One tip that can help with this potential worry is to pre-finish the panels. This is generally a good idea anyway as during the driest months the unfinished edges of a panel can peek out if finishing was doing after assembly (see first image in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2813/should-i-finish-before-during-or-after-assembly/2815#2815&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once finish is on the panel it can't be glued firmly by any glue that does happen to get on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2017-01-05T11:13:18.457" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5240" CreationDate="2017-01-05T20:37:51.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Danish oil is a natural finish option worth considering.  It's easy to apply and will give the shelves a more durable finish.  It can also be reapplied later on if necessary.  In my opinion the woodworking of the shelves looks quite nice and would be highlighted with a natural finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1112" LastEditorUserId="1112" LastEditDate="2017-01-05T22:35:28.480" LastActivityDate="2017-01-05T22:35:28.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5246" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-06T01:17:28.330" Score="1" ViewCount="655" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read the thread on removing paint from rough sawn wood but it doesn't exactly address my situation. My daughter painted some designs on the ceiling of her room with some kind of tempera-based (I think) fluorescent paint. the ceiling is rough sawn red cedar and unfinished. I don't plan (or would prefer not to) paint the ceiling as it is a log house and the bare wood look is something I want to keep. I am concerned to find a method of removing these painted spots with minimal impact to the color or texture of the boards. So, for example, if  there were some method of wetting the paint and soaking it out, that would be great. Alternatively, I am considering wire brush, but I think that will make a noticeable difference in color and texture of the wood, which has naturally darkened over the years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3134" LastActivityDate="2017-01-06T02:35:20.533" Title="Removing spots of tempera paint from rough sawn cedar board ceiling" Tags="|wood|paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5246" CreationDate="2017-01-06T02:35:20.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect Graphus may have some insight on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tempura paints are waterbased and should dissolve with soap and water. I would start by wire brushing it to remove as much dried pigment as possible. I would then attempt to remove it by gently wetting it with soapy water repeated several times. You may be able to reduce the risk of pigment soaking in further repeated rinsing and vacuuming it up as you go.  The fact that the surface is upside down on the ceiling may help draining the water away from the board as you go. I suspect however, that some staining will remain and, in the end, the texture of the wood surface will differ from untreated areas. Even if you remove the pigment, the water stains may leave a visual stain on the board.  If so, you may have to wet the entire area to get an even appearance when it dries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are very concerned, you may want to create a test panel duplicating the problem, let it dry for a few days and then test cleaning approaches on it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2017-01-06T02:35:20.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5248" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-06T09:00:40.950" Score="1" ViewCount="55" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is less of a showcase display of fine woodwork and more of a question on the stability of certain drawers.&#xA;I intend to place a cabinet on top of a bedside drawer, I'm worried that the drawers I plan on purchasing will not be able to support the amount of weight of the cabinet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is whether these drawers are able to support a cabinet of 50kg/110 pounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fantasticfurniture.com.au/Categories/Bedroom-%26-Mattresses/Bedroom/Bedside-Tables/Avoca-Bedside-2-Drawer/p/AVOBSD2DWOOOFOICHO&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.fantasticfurniture.com.au/Categories/Bedroom-%26-Mattresses/Bedroom/Bedside-Tables/Avoca-Bedside-2-Drawer/p/AVOBSD2DWOOOFOICHO&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fantasticfurniture.com.au/Categories/Bedroom-%26-Mattresses/Bedroom/Bedside-Tables/Groove-Bedside-Table-/p/GROBSD2DWOOOMDFCBR&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.fantasticfurniture.com.au/Categories/Bedroom-%26-Mattresses/Bedroom/Bedside-Tables/Groove-Bedside-Table-/p/GROBSD2DWOOOMDFCBR&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not the best at estimating or guessing how much weight a bedside drawer can support so I figured I'd ask for some knowledgeable assistance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kind Regards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3136" LastActivityDate="2017-01-06T09:00:40.950" Title="How much weight can these wood bedside drawers support?" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2017-01-06T21:25:30.350" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5249" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5256" CreationDate="2017-01-06T09:32:32.033" Score="8" ViewCount="258" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a beginner.   I'm concentrating on hand-tool joinery for now.  I've watched a lot of YouTube videos, trying to learn joinery.   For the purposes of this question I'm most interested in mortice &amp;amp; tenon joints and dovetail joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When fitting a joint it's clearly necessary to remove a little wood where the joint doesn't fit yet.   But, best not to remove wood that doesn't need to be removed since (e.g.) this can make the joint fit more loosely than necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the basic idea is only to remove the wood that's preventing the joint from fitting.   Often, videos show people making a trial fit and then figuring out where the wood is &quot;bruised&quot; in order to deduce what to remove.   But I can't see this bruising on the videos, myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the moment I find tenon fitting seems easier, since I can do a trial fit and then wiggle the part-way-inserted tenon in the mortise to figure out where the tenon pivots; this is the high point and I can remove material from either the mortise or the tenon to make it fit (and the shoulders of the tenon will hide some mistakes in this).   Sometimes, the layout marks may provide a hint as to what to remove, but that's not the case that's interesting to me here (since I already know how to do that).  Anyway, in this way I can more or less fit a mortise and tenon joint without being able to spot the bruising.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, with a dovetail joint there are multiple places where the joint could be binding during a test fit, so spotting bruising is, I suspect, more important for dovetails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question really boils down to these specifics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I distinguish the wood that must be removed to fit a joint from the wood that should not?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I identify where wood is &quot;bruised&quot;?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pointers to learning materials would be very welcome (i.e. you don't have to explain it all directly in your answer if there are e.g. videos showing how to work on these skills).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2557" LastEditorUserId="2557" LastEditDate="2017-01-06T14:56:22.917" LastActivityDate="2017-01-06T15:52:57.100" Title="How to get better at fitting joints and &quot;seeing&quot; bruises?" Tags="|joinery|hand-tools|mortise-and-tenon|dovetail|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5250" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5258" CreationDate="2017-01-06T13:01:11.790" Score="8" ViewCount="3967" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I understand the technical difference between ripping a board in two vs resawing a board into thinner boards, is there a technical reason for the distinction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Granted, thinner pieces of wood will flex more substantially during cuts on a resaw and binding while cutting is a concern, but that's a difference of degree not type, and would remain true when ripping boards into smaller sections as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, if I were to saw a 4x4 into two 2x4s, is that operation a rip or a resaw? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would seem to be more reasonable to label the cut according to it's orientation relative to the grain like we do with the crosscut. Presumably &quot;quarter-sawing&quot; perpendicular to a consistent set of rings of alternating density is mechanically distinct from &quot;rift/plain-sawing&quot; mostly between the rings, resulting in different stresses on the blade and wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus question: Is there research that discusses the differences in these two cutting processes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3137" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2019-01-29T23:42:07.177" LastActivityDate="2019-01-29T23:42:07.177" Title="Ripping vs Resawing - is there a reason for the difference?" Tags="|terminology|rip-cut|resawing|quarter-sawn|rift-sawn|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5250" CreationDate="2017-01-06T13:11:07.083" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a distinction because the actions are different. You must make considerably different considerations when resawing than when ripping, and those considerations are not specific to the grain direction, but to the dimensions of the board. Resawing is splitting the thickness of a board, whereas ripping is splitting the width of a board. The thickness is the smaller of the two dimensions, which causes the process of making that cut much more difficult. You are relying on your fence more than the table in most cases, and are burying your blade in considerably more material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastActivityDate="2017-01-06T13:11:07.083" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5250" CreationDate="2017-01-06T14:54:15.010" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I could see these concepts getting confusing because there is some correlation between the two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As discussed in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/307/what-is-the-difference-between-a-rip-cut-and-a-cross-cut?rq=1&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; ripping or a rip cut is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;With the rip cut, you cut along the grain&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So ripping has nothing to do with the dimensions of the wood but the &lt;strong&gt;grain direction&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resawing is the process of taking larger boards and converting them into smaller ones or veneers. The cuts are typicall rip cuts in this process. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/2011/04/22/how-to-resaw-on-the-bandsaw-video&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;As discussed ,on FineWoodWorking, on setting up your bandsaw for resaw&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DmhlV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DmhlV.png&quot; alt=&quot;Video still from FineWoodworking&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't just apply to thinning board but processing timber as well which will have obviously non uniform cross grain. Basically when you are resawing you could be ripping as well. Ripping is the cut and resawing is the process. This is how I understand it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2017-01-06T15:30:42.747" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5249" CreationDate="2017-01-06T15:48:42.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;for all things like this, it helps to have the right kind of lighting. A low raking light is useful for highlighting subtle differences in wood surfaces - like this burnishing or in preparing a surface for finishing. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;it can also help to rub some soft pencil lead on one of the mating faces. When you try to push the joint closed, the lead will come off on the other face at the binding locations.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2017-01-06T15:48:42.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5255" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5257" CreationDate="2017-01-06T15:52:20.687" Score="6" ViewCount="1828" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to build a large table and my customer wants the top 3&quot; thick. My plan is to use wide boards(8&quot;+). So I have some concern about cupping but figure that might not be as much of an issue with 3&quot; thick stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main question is this. I plan to use 1 1/2&quot; nominal boards in the middle of the table to reduce weight and material costs. If I miter a frame around the thinner boards with the 3&quot; stock and join/glue it all together, will the thinner boards expand/contract at a different rate and cause the top to crack or warp?.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Planning on using a hardwood like Oak/Mahogany. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've attached a drawing of the top for reference&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SdNFG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SdNFG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ahyMw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ahyMw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1462" LastEditorUserId="1462" LastEditDate="2017-01-06T16:33:17.253" LastActivityDate="2017-01-07T01:14:02.313" Title="Thick tabletop movement" Tags="|wood|wood-movement|tabletop|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5249" CreationDate="2017-01-06T15:52:57.100" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When fitting a joint it's clearly necessary to remove a little wood where the joint doesn't fit yet. But, best not to remove wood that doesn't need to be removed since (e.g.) this can make the joint fit more loosely than necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes this is very important with most glues used today. Some glues have good gap-filling properties but the three main ones in use with leisure woodworkers today — PVA (both white and yellow types), foaming polyurethane and room-temperature hide glue — all have poor to very poor gap filling, so the strength of loose joints is significantly compromised. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So the basic idea is only to remove the wood that's preventing the joint from fitting. Often, videos show people making a trial fit and then figuring out where the wood is &quot;bruised&quot; in order to deduce what to remove. But I can't see this bruising on the videos, myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bruising may not be the best word for it. It's sometimes referred to as burnishing, which I think is the better term since it gives an immediate idea of what to look for, which is slightly glossy areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood type (and colour) play a big part here, in general it's extremely easy to see the burnishing on darker, denser woods and much harder on lighter and/or low-density woods. So you'll find it much easier usually to see what you need to see on ABW than on poplar :-) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With softwoods in particular the burnishing may only show up properly on the dark grain lines, since the pale areas in between (the soft earlywood) can be so yielding that it doesn't show the rubbing at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the moment I find tenon fitting seems easier, since I can do a trial fit and then wiggle the part-way-inserted tenon in the mortise to figure out where the tenon pivots; this is the high point and I can remove material from either the mortise or the tenon to make it fit (and the shoulders of the tenon will hide some mistakes in this). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may indicate that you're over-thinking the fit of joints a little bit. With a M&amp;amp;T the tenon doesn't need to slide in evenly, it's great if it does and by all means aim for this, but basically all it needs to be able to do is slide into the mortise, maybe with the help of a couple of mallet taps (an easy sliding fit is too loose, although you can get away with it). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's fairly tight in one spot that's OK, as long as you can still get the tenon into the mortise once glue is applied you're good to go. Shaving off that high spot, even removing just a few thousandths of an inch (hundredths of a mm) will actually make the joint slightly weaker. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-01-06T15:52:57.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5255" CreationDate="2017-01-06T16:12:00.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My main question is this. I plan to use 1 1/2&quot; nominal boards in the middle of the table to reduce weight and material costs. If I miter a frame around the thinner boards with the 3&quot; stock and join/glue it all together, will the thinner boards expand/contract at a different rate and cause the top to crack or warp?.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thinner and thicker boards expand equally pretty much, for any given type of board (rift, QS or flat-sawn). The issue with this isn't differential movement, it's movement period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me pass on verbatim a piece of advice from a pro that I read a couple of years back:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;resist the urge to picture-frame a tabletop&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's nearly no way to get this to work properly with the glued-up centre panel. You could just about get away with it using the right wood (QS mesquite being a rare example) but with most other woods you're asking for trouble and both oak and mahogany (all types) are no exception.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At maximum expansion the central boards will have no problem at all breaking apart two or more of the mitre joints, even if they're reinforced with biscuits, splines or Dominos. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you managed to secure the mitres somehow so that they couldn't be broken open (e.g. by using metal fixings) the central panel will be put under enormous strain when it tries to expand but can't, and the result then is warping and/or cracking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Getting the look without the drama&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Probably the best way to do this is using plywood or another board material for the central panel, with veneer applied if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-01-06T16:12:00.757" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5250" CreationDate="2017-01-06T16:40:09.927" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Resawing is a type of rip cut (always, without exception). The reason for the different terms is that ripping cuts are &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; cuts along the grain but not all rip cuts are resawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resawing, as the term is used today, refers only to cutting a board &lt;em&gt;across its thickness&lt;/em&gt;, i.e. sawing a thick board into two (or more) thinner boards. You are literally re-sawing the board from its original sawn thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A standard rip cut performed on the same starting board would be &lt;em&gt;reducing its width&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For instance, if I were to saw a 4x4 into two 2x4s, is that operation a rip or a resaw? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's both, but wouldn't normally be referred to as a resawing operation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think this is because a 4x4 isn't generally referred to as a board (although that distinction is largely arbitrary), but if you sawed it instead into three or four or five boards, that would then be resawing certainly &lt;em&gt;even if it wouldn't commonly be thought of or described that way&lt;/em&gt; — lots of idiosyncratic or irregular use of terminology in woodworking, as well as regional and dialectical differences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It would seem to be more reasonable to label the cut according to it's orientation relative to the grain like we do with the crosscut. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, because the orientation of the grain, as I think you're referring to, isn't relevant. Resawing is a type of rip cut as already stated, so in one way the cut is always along the grain but the angle of the cut as it relates to the grain in the wood the other way (more radial than tangential, more tangential than radial) is not relevant to the type of operation, thinning the board is the only criterion that defines resawing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Bonus question: Is there research that discusses the differences in these two cutting processes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm giggling inside at this, we do love to over-analyse things. Anyway not that I'm aware of. Why would there need to be? We can call resawing anything we want for all the difference in makes in what the operation is, or how it's done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bet in other languages resawing wouldn't be a simple translation of &lt;em&gt;re- saw&lt;/em&gt;, it could be a specialist woodworking word stemming from the historical name for the cut with no exact parallel in English (there are a few examples of this in French, German and Swedish). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But regardless of the word(s) used in all cases it will simply refer to a type of rip cut performed to cut a thicker board into thinner boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-01-06T16:40:09.927" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5255" CreationDate="2017-01-06T18:33:20.560" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way to get something like the picture frame look would be breadboard ends (good practice for keeping a tabletop flat anyway), possibly with some decorative treatment of them and the outermost panel boards to make them &quot;read&quot; as a frame. (Eg, shadow lines where they meet the central area.) You'd lose the miters, but the overall feel of the piece would be similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another solution would be to build the central area out of plywood or MDF with appropriate veneer -- dimensionally stable -- with solid-wood mitered edging. That would mean only the edging moves with humidity, and since it's of equal thickness all the way around there is no strain on the miters. Note that this also lets the table edge be thicker than the middle, making the table appear more massive (and helping  to stiffen it) while keeping weight and cost of the project lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2017-01-07T01:14:02.313" LastActivityDate="2017-01-07T01:14:02.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5260" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5261" CreationDate="2017-01-06T20:06:04.073" Score="1" ViewCount="1120" Body="&lt;p&gt;(Apologies if this has been answered before. This probably has a really obvious answer.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to connect two 4x4s in a &quot;T&quot;. (These are one leg and a center / longitudinal support for a long table.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided on a half lap joint since it looked relatively easy to do, but my wife doesn't want to see the back of the joint on the table feet. I thought:  easy enough, I'll just make it a blind joint so that the end of the long board doesn't go all the way through, leaving about 3/4&quot; on the end of the lap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I'm not sure what the best way is to cut this into the table foot (about 32&quot; piece of 4x4). My initial attempt on a piece of scrap was to drill a few holes in the corners of the waste area, hit it with the jig saw and chisel out the rest. This works, mostly, but is something of a pain and doesn't get me a smooth surface at the bottom of the cut for the long board to mate with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not super-comfortable with the idea of putting a 1.5&quot; bit on my router as I'm a bit afraid of snapping the shaft if the teeth catch on a knot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suggestions? I considered a mortise-and-tenon joint, but that leaves me with the problem of cutting a 1.5-1.75&quot;-deep mortise, which is basically the same issue I'm having here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could probably just get a large bit or hole saw, use my neglected drill press and clean up the excess with the jig saw or chisel, but is there a better / more accepted / safer way to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3096" LastEditorUserId="3327" LastEditDate="2017-02-20T12:41:00.150" LastActivityDate="2017-02-20T12:41:00.150" Title="How do I cut a blind half-lap T-joint?" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5260" CreationDate="2017-01-06T23:02:52.030" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kudos for doing a test run first and identifying the problem ahead of time!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Standard advice from older woodworking guides (or any modern handtool book) for doing many things like this: cut the bulk of the material out with the chisel (if you like drilling out some waste first), then smooth the bottom of the recess/channel/dado with a router. In the old days this would have been a hand router but you can do the same thing with a powered router of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Suggestions? I considered a mortise-and-tenon joint, but that leaves me with the problem of cutting a 1.5-1.75&quot;-deep mortise, which is basically the same issue I'm having here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not really, since the bottom of a mortise doesn't need to be clean &lt;em&gt;at all&lt;/em&gt;. In fact the bottoms of most mortises probably look like they were chewed by a beaver. Long as the side walls of the mortise are clean though that's all that matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The M&amp;amp;T is the stronger joint, but the half lap (UK: housing joint) is plenty strong enough for what you're doing here if it's cut well and the parts are glued together properly*.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm not super-comfortable with the idea of putting a 1.5&quot; bit on my router as I'm a bit afraid of snapping the shaft if the teeth catch on a knot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use a long bit with safety to cut deeply even into very hard wood if you just take a little off at a time. If you had to you could just nibble away 1/8&quot; or less at a time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A slower feed rate helps reduce the strain on the bit as well, although this can increase the chances of scorching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just thought I'd tack this on for anyone with a table saw who might like to try an alternative......&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;'Cheating' using a table saw&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you have a table saw and the raw material for the legs is thick enough that you can afford to lose some there is a workaround method. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First you saw a thin strip from the leg (you'll lose about 1/8&quot; or so to the kerf), then you cut the lap through on the thicker portion, which is straightforward to do and it's easy to get a nice flat surface using a sharp chisel with fine paring cuts to finish off. Then you simply glue the strip back on the leg, closing the back of the joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can create a seamless joint on the leg if the grain is nice and straight or if the wood is a tight-grained species without obvious grain lines or figure that would be interrupted by the cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Use enough glue that some squeezes out, use plenty of clamp pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-01-06T23:02:52.030" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5263" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-07T16:10:40.153" Score="4" ViewCount="506" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a rose from Poplar planing scraps; the arranged, concentric, shavings are tissue-paper thin. &#xA;I wanted to somehow seal and finish the flower so that it would have some degree of durability, mostly to keep the shaving-petals from cracking and flaking away over time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I should probably use a &quot;softer&quot; finish like Poly to allow some &quot;flex&quot; so that if knocked, it wouldn't chip like varnish. My second idea was simply buying some clear epoxy resin and dipping the whole thing.&#xA;I've never done an epoxy on anything before, so my concern is that it will turn cloudy (by nature of epoxy) or over time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could use some feedback from more experienced wood workers on what might work best. I only have an enthusiast level of experience with wood finishes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photo for reference: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i8zMC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i8zMC.png&quot; alt=&quot;photo of wooden flower&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3142" LastEditorUserId="2264" LastEditDate="2017-01-10T17:26:02.313" LastActivityDate="2017-01-10T17:26:02.313" Title="Best TOUGH clear finish for fragile wood-shaving flower?" Tags="|finish-selection|hand-planing|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5264" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-07T20:25:27.877" Score="1" ViewCount="63" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to make opendesk for home use. I'd go with this project &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.opendesk.cc/lean/studio-desk?config_id=9244#get-it-made&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.opendesk.cc/lean/studio-desk?config_id=9244#get-it-made&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First I'd print the design plans on sheets of paper than transfer them somehow onto actual plywood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice on transfering printouts onto the plywood? Or perhaps there are better ways to do this process with fretsaw? (I don't have access to CNC machine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3143" LastActivityDate="2017-01-07T21:59:12.527" Title="cutting opendesk parts with fretsaw" Tags="|furniture|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5264" CreationDate="2017-01-07T21:59:12.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any advice on transfering printouts onto the plywood? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't have to transfer the drawings if you can print them out full size, you can simply glue the printouts to the plywood, wait for the glue to dry and make your cuts. Then soak, scrape or sand the paper pattern from the plywood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sticking paper patterns directly to the wood is actually quite a standard way of doing some jobs in woodworking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't print the pattern out at full size then probably the best way to transfer the drawing to the plywood is via gridding. It's too difficult to explain this properly in words only so see the link below that shows the process more fully. But just to describe the process here in brief, you draw a grid of small square on the scale drawings, draw a grid of large squares on the plywood, then transfer your lines from the small squares to the large squares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wikihow.com/Scale-Drawings-Using-the-Grid-Method&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Scale Drawings Using the Grid Method&lt;/a&gt; on WikiHow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-01-07T21:59:12.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5267" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5271" CreationDate="2017-01-08T04:05:01.973" Score="0" ViewCount="1420" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to build a coffee table out of cedar planks treated with the Shou-Sugi-Ban method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that cedar is too soft for regular use and will get notched and scratched very quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I harden the surface of the wood to ensure it lasts longer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3144" LastActivityDate="2021-10-20T03:47:42.850" Title="How can I harden soft woods?" Tags="|finishing|finish-selection|durability|softwood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5268" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-08T04:10:10.990" Score="0" ViewCount="522" Body="&lt;p&gt;So far I have only used Pfiel carving tools and am accustomed to sharpening them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I picked up a set of old Mifer (Spanish) gouges today.  It is taking me a couple hours per gouge to set their bevels because the gouge is so thick.  I read somewhere they are made with Vanadium steel; and it is ridiculously slow to sharpen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are about 3x thicker than my similar Pfiel gouges.  When I say thick, I mean there is a very large spine underneath the cutting edge running along the length of the gouge -- what is normally about 2mm between the shallow portion of the gouge and the complete bottom of the edge on Pfiel gouges is maybe 5mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the point of this?  It is more metal so presumably more costly to manufacture.  It makes sharpening take forever.  It also seems like it is harder to use (but I may not be used to them yet) since the thick bottom portion of the gouge is getting in the way of the actual cutting edge!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I have added some pictures comparing the Pfiel to the Mifer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below the Mifer gouge is on the left.  The bevels are approximately the same angle between the two but you can see how much longer it has to be on the Mifer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JXI9t.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JXI9t.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The mifer gouge is on the left&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another angle.  The Mifer has a higher sweep and slightly longer cutting edge but they are pretty close.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vDFFb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vDFFb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mifer gouge on the right&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3135" LastEditorUserId="3135" LastEditDate="2017-01-08T15:49:31.440" LastActivityDate="2017-01-08T15:49:31.440" Title="Old carving gouges -- why so thick?" Tags="|hand-tools|carving|gouge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5263" CreationDate="2017-01-08T04:12:49.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should look into Waterlox. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is very forgiving to use.  And it forms an elastic (not plastic like the urethane based varnishes) layer which can bend and stretch a bit.  It also absorbs somewhat into the wood and hardens there too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A further benefit in this case over polyurethane is that you really can't sand that piece (which polyurethane needs to prevent cloudiness between layers, especially on uneven surfaces like that).  Waterlox can penetrate itself and does not need sanding between coats.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3135" LastEditorUserId="3135" LastEditDate="2017-01-08T15:55:44.053" LastActivityDate="2017-01-08T15:55:44.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5270" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-08T05:25:26.470" Score="0" ViewCount="3670" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a newbie to woodwork and surprised myself by successfully creating an even Black Japan stain on some Tasmanian Oak. I then decided to finish it with Danish Oil. Somehow I decided to brush on a heavy coat of the oil and leave it until it dries. A week later the wood has an inconsistent tacky/ gummy and shiny finish and the grain seems to have risen. I've read that wiping down the surface daily with mineral turpentine or methylated spirits will eventually remove the tacky surface. The issue is that the wood is also stained and in the small section I tried this on the turps stripped about 25% of the stain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TLDR:&lt;/strong&gt; What can I do to remove the tacky/ gummy Danish Oil finish from Oak without removing the stain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stained:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3ZOgr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3ZOgr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stained and Oiled&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Lf4I.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Lf4I.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dgHj3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dgHj3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3141" LastActivityDate="2017-01-09T17:29:28.750" Title="Tacky/ gummy Danish oil surface on stained, Tasmanian Oak" Tags="|finishing|wood|staining|wood-repair|oiling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5267" CreationDate="2017-01-08T05:56:04.553" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Putting a glass top over it would be simplest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are epoxies made for bar tops which might work, but I have no idea what they would do over a soft wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are compounds used to harden partially rotted wood, but I would be even more distrustful of trying to force them into a use they weren't designed for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2017-01-08T05:56:04.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5270" CreationDate="2017-01-08T08:33:12.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What can I do to remove the tacky/ gummy Danish Oil finish from Oak without removing the stain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect you're not going to be able to I'm afraid. Well done for doing a test but your experiment indicates that the &lt;em&gt;least&lt;/em&gt; aggressive method, wiping with spirits, also removes your stain. You could try the meths (US: denatured alcohol) and see if it works for you which is my best suggestion but I think it'll have a similar effect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fully remove a partially-dried &quot;Danish oil&quot;-type finish&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; you may have to resort to using acetone. This has a stronger/more aggressive solvent action and therefore is more likely to attack the stain than either of the above options. It won't remove all of it, but it can attack all stain types to some degree and along with the rubbing you'll probably get a very similar effect as in the pictures above, if not more pronounced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Afterwards&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Once you've removed as much of the &quot;Danish oil&quot; as you can by solvent means some of the finish will remain in the surface fibres of the wood, which is a problem if you want to re-stain as this will resist the penetration of all wood stains. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the bad news here is that if you want to stain again to get back to the colour you had originally you generally have to remove the surface entirely to get back to bare wood. In addition to the fact of having to start completely from scratch it also means you'll lose some thickness from every piece from the planing, scraping and/or sanding you need to do to take off the contaminated surface wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Take-home message on finishing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Test first. &lt;em&gt;Always&lt;/em&gt; test first when doing something new, particularly when you're inexperienced and don't know how various finishes work. But it is good advice for anyone of any level to test the finishing process they propose to use on scraps before committing to working on the finished piece — the finish, and the wood itself, can often surprise you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And obviously it's usually a good idea to read and follow the instructions&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. The instructions on the &quot;Danish oil&quot; you bought I'm sure would have told you what you know now, that you should wipe away most of it after applying it to the surface and letting it soak in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Usually these are a blend of oil and varnish, heavily diluted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Unfortunately not always. As just one example most commercial &quot;wood conditioners&quot; have instructions that don't give the best results with the product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-01-08T08:33:12.113" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5268" CreationDate="2017-01-08T08:51:21.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think there are two possible answers here, both of which may be right. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is, &quot;that's the way we make them&quot;. There may be multiple reasons they made them that way (including the one that follows in the next paragraph, but also simply tradition, giving the customer what they expect to see and some others). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second is for strength. Professional tools are often made particularly robustly to take continual, heavy use over the lifetime of the user (many chisels can outlast an entire working life, even when honed daily).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-01-08T08:51:21.963" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="125" CreationDate="2017-01-08T16:09:51.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a fast growing pine species called radiata pine that is grown in New Zealand that Home Depot sells. They sometimes mislabel it white pine but it not eastern white pine. Now they call it white wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3146" LastActivityDate="2017-01-08T16:09:51.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5275" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5276" CreationDate="2017-01-08T18:54:01.520" Score="1" ViewCount="1371" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got this stand from a friend of mine years ago. Its unbranded. I want to use it to hold a 55 to 75 gallon fish tank which can weigh 456 pounds to 622.5 pounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much weight can this stand hold ? or How can i calculate a estimate of how much weight this stand will hold ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wood is 61 in by 17 in and about 3/4 in thick. The metal under it is 2 inches. The metal legs are 28 inches high. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I98WS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;a busy cat&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vjHWP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;a busy cat&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/amEca.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;a busy cat&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JAnb0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;a busy cat&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nLLLW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;a busy cat&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FhiLV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;a busy cat&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3148" LastActivityDate="2017-01-08T22:38:03.363" Title="How much weight can this stand hold?" Tags="|safety|weight-capacity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2017-01-10T21:16:16.413" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5275" CreationDate="2017-01-08T22:38:03.363" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not recommend using this table for a fish tank. There are too many potential sources for failure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the tank rests upon the 3/4&quot; top instead of extending to the width and length of the metal support frame, the risk of failure increases due to the potential weakness of the MDF board itself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The ability of the metal apron to support the load depends upon the gauge of the metal.  If it is too thin it will buckle. I am not aware of any rule of thumbs that could easily predict the carrying capacity of the sides. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is not clear how the metal aprons connect to the legs.  If the legs are not fully welded or otherwise adequately connected, then any sideways force on  the tank might cause the entire the leg/apron connection to fail and the tank collapse.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The legs are very slender and will may be at risk of buckling under the load.  Since the table does not include a bottom shelf, there is no additional bracing to keep the legs stiff and vertical.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each leg will transfer approx. 150 lbs. to the floor in very small areas.  This may be a problem for a wood framed floor and may leave a permanent impression of the finished flooring.  A tank cabinet would spread the weight over an area of flooring better than these slender legs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you asked this question in WSE, I would suggest researching commercially available tank cabinets and possibly making one of your own. If you have questions as you plan the base, this site is always available to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2017-01-08T22:38:03.363" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5279" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-09T15:51:05.740" Score="2" ViewCount="279" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a &quot;Buffet&quot; and I would like to know the best method of finishing the top. It needs to be very waterproof. Thanks for the help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3149" LastActivityDate="2017-01-10T10:14:06.237" Title="Waterproof finishing for buffet" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5280" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5281" CreationDate="2017-01-09T16:33:27.427" Score="2" ViewCount="233" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am so new to band saws and I want to have a back up for my Ryobi band saw. It uses 62&quot; blades and that Part I get good. When buying they all say something like 62&quot; X 1/8 or 3/8&quot; X 6/14 TPI. The main thing I get confused over is that middle number. If it says 1/8&quot; or 3/8&quot; etc. is that how wide the blade is? I am almost certain but not sure. Because what if the 1/8&quot; means thickness? 3/8&quot; would be pretty thick so I think that would be width. What is a good general blade width. And what would be a good TPI. I was thinking 6 sounded good, even though 14 would be more fine. But would is the recommended TPI otherwise? I am just doing wood cutting. Last thing is with installing the blade. How much &quot;flex&quot; should the blade have when I adjust that tension. I heard you should be able to take your finger and pull the blade back 1/8&quot;. That be all for now.Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="2073" LastEditDate="2017-01-09T16:38:54.817" LastActivityDate="2017-01-09T17:17:38.583" Title="Band saw blade replacement" Tags="|band-saw|blade|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5280" CreationDate="2017-01-09T16:51:14.217" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The main thing I get confused over is that middle number. If it says 1/8&quot; or 3/8&quot; etc. is that how wide the blade is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are correct. The middle number is the width of the blade. Thinner blades are better at cutting tighter curves, but are harder to use to cut straight lines. Wider blades are good for things like resawing, where you are always aiming for a straighter cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;And what would be a good TPI. I was thinking 6 sounded good&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What teeth-per-inch (TPI) you want to use depends on what kind of cut you are trying to make and how clean you want it to come out, similar to all other saw blades. A blade with something like 3-5 TPI is good for resawing and rip cutting. Just like with saw blades for other tools, fewer number of teeth means larger gullets, which clear out wood chips easier at the expense of how fine a cut you get. A blade with 14-16 TPI works well for a finer cut. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for one blade, your guess of 6 TPI is probably reasonable. You could probably go as high as 10 TPI for a general purpose blade -- sometimes finding an exact TPI is difficult or impossible, but generally something in the same range works fine. For a general purpose blade, 6-10 TPI is probably the range you're looking at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you aspire to have multiple blades, I'd suggest a wide one, as close to 3/4&quot; as your saw will support, with 3 TPI for resawing and rip cuts. You always want these cuts to be straight, so the wide blade is useful for this. A narrow blade, perhaps 1/4&quot; wide with around 14 TPI is useful to make fine cuts. These are the two blades I almost always go between on my band saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is a good general blade width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my estimation, 3/8&quot; to 1/2&quot; is a good general blade width. The thinner blade will go around curves that are a bit tighter, while the wider will be easier to make straight cuts with, so it sort of depends on how you plan on using it. Note that blades are limited in how much of a curve they'll cut, and attempting to push past the limit just makes the blade drift. So if you envision yourself cutting curved parts or templates, I'd go with the smaller one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How much &quot;flex&quot; should the blade have when I adjust that tension. I heard you should be able to take your finger and pull the blade back 1/8&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That sounds reasonable to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2017-01-09T17:17:38.583" LastActivityDate="2017-01-09T17:17:38.583" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5283" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5289" CreationDate="2017-01-09T22:29:14.960" Score="2" ViewCount="2685" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the process of making a work bench, mostly following the Nicholson style, and with a vise like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iYldStIreQI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only difference is that I'm going to be using hard wood for the vise chop, and I want to put dog holes in the top of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of cost, I'll probably have to laminate 2 pieces of wood together to form the chop, rather than using a single thick piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is this: given that I want to put dog holes (3/4&quot;) in the chop, how thick should I make it? I was thinking 2&quot; - is that enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2909" LastActivityDate="2017-01-10T09:55:47.727" Title="Vise chop thickness?" Tags="|workbench|vises|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="124" CreationDate="2017-01-10T01:05:06.287" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just went through a very similar process.  I bought a bunch of old Mifer (Spanish) gouges from craigslist.  I tried to bevel them on the stones but the steel was way too hard and thick and just took too long.  After about an hour on one chisel I decided to give the grinder a go.  You can do nearly the same thing by hand but it will just take a lot longer.  For your time, it is probably worth it to spend $50 bucks on a 6&quot; bench grinder.  Most come with a wheel on each side (you won't need the course one) and you can replace it with a 6&quot; cloth or whatever type of honing wheel.  This makes rehoning every 15-20 minutes much quicker when carving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thankfully they did not have hardly any surface rust.  Red rust is what to watch out for as it can mean deeper pits in the blade than you might suspect.  In this case you can take off metal from both sides until hopefully you find a clean center from a stone grinder.  I had to do this to a old planer blade which was gifted to me recently and turned it into a double-bevel chisel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are free of surface rust I suggest using a bench grinder to set the initial bevel.  Hold the blade sideways and turn the handle as if it was a screwdriver while gently touching it to the grinder. Be patient.  Go slow.  Dip the tip in water constantly.  If you burn the metal (heat generated due to friction) it will change colors.  The temper is lost, and you need to grind out all the way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like the image below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pA0mM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pA0mM.png&quot; alt=&quot;gouge sharpening&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The goal is for after polishing for the bevel to be FLAT from the start of the bevel to the cutting edge (the gouge will obviously have a curve to it, but this should be from one cutting-end/bevel to the other, not from the start of the bevel to the blade).  This means light reflected will have minimal bend, and be more like a flat mirror.  The more bend the reflection has, the more the bevel was bent towards the edge, giving a more cannel (or Moran) bevel to the blade.  While this Moran edge can be desired in certain situations, typically when done unintentionally (aka on accident due to poor flat bevel sharpening) the quality is not so good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have attempted to show it below:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Mejt.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Mejt.png&quot; alt=&quot;bevels&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I attached a picture showing the bevels on the gouges I sharpened.  They are not perfectly flat, but they are acceptable (to me):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HOLH7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HOLH7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;reflections in gouges&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can put sharpie all over the bevel to make it really obvious where you are hitting.  Frankly it will be obvious anyway since the grinder leaves fairly course markings.  Afterwards hit it with honing compound on either a wheel or strop for a few minutes, alternating sides until the small wire burr at the end of the blade comes off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will sometimes grind the end flush if the gouge is way off, leaving a very thick end.  Then as I grind (as shown in the image above) I will check the thickness of this edge constantly to make sure I am grinding evenly along the radius of the gouge.  The goal is to cut through the thick dull spot on all parts of the blade simultaneously, which implies an even grind.  As the tip gets thinner and thinner it gets easier and easier to burn.  Dip it in water every 1-2s of grind, seriously!! It sucks to burn the metal right at the end of a otherwise good bevel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PSA: The bevels I ground on the wheel gave me a bad skin reaction all over my hands back and around my mouth where the respirator was (weird).  I don't know if it was the vanadium steel or what.  But just a heads up use long sleeves and good ventilation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3135" LastEditorUserId="3135" LastEditDate="2017-01-10T15:36:48.793" LastActivityDate="2017-01-10T15:36:48.793" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5283" CreationDate="2017-01-10T02:11:08.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you tighten the vise your dog will place all the pressure from tightening the vise on the outerlayer of wood in the chop.  I would recommend at least one inch of hardwood onm the outside face of the chop.  The inside face need not be as thick since it will not be compressed during tightening, so about 1/2&quot; should do it. All told this would result in 2 1/4&quot; minimum chop.  I would align my pieces with the grain traveling parallel with the vise travel and use plenty of glue when assembling the chop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vise installation in your video shows the chop installed along the front of the bench.  When planning my own bench I had both a front leg vise and a traveling wagon vise that extends side to side.  The wagon vise had dogs that extend along the entire front of the vise.  This allows me to mount short or long boards and easily plane them along their entire length, so it gets plenty of use.  I chose not to put dogs in the leg vise since any board mounted using the dogs would extend from front to back of the bench and is not convenient for most prep work including planing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2017-01-10T02:11:08.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5286" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-10T02:27:16.147" Score="3" ViewCount="206" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can someone please tell me what this is called. It came out of a rather cheaply made cat window perch. I wanted to make one more sturdy (other than 1/8&quot; chip board!) but wanted to use this type fastener if possible to go with the other hardware that came with the perch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks so much!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lreZN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lreZN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hardware 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6OUmT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6OUmT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hardware 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3155" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2017-01-10T06:22:23.103" LastActivityDate="2017-01-10T06:22:23.103" Title="What do you call this piece of hardware with spurs and female threads?" Tags="|fasteners|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5286" CreationDate="2017-01-10T02:31:18.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you'll find these on search using the term &quot;wood tee nut&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a variety of different forms. There is one that looks like this one except without the &quot;tangs&quot;, having small holes in the flange instead where brads or small nails can be used to keep it from falling out or rotating while it's being tightened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2017-01-10T02:31:18.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5286" CreationDate="2017-01-10T02:38:12.297" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's a threaded insert, specifically a tee-nut with spurs. It is designed to be inserted from the opposite side of a drilled hole and accept a bolt; the spurs dig in to keep it from spinning as the bolt is tightened. Threaded inserts are sometimes used for strength, but more often are used where a connection may be assembled and disassembled (or tightened and loosened) many times and the designer doesn't want it to wear out as it would if a screw was used that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2017-01-10T02:38:12.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5283" CreationDate="2017-01-10T09:55:47.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Because of cost, I'll probably have to laminate 2 pieces of wood together to form the chop, rather than using a single thick piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be stronger and more stable than one solid piece so it's often a good way to go anyway. If the piece or pieces you get are flat-sawn, alternate the grain as in the vice bottom-left of the image in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3672/how-do-experts-make-dovetails-by-hand-that-fit-so-well/3689#3689&quot;&gt;this Answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My question is this: given that I want to put dog holes (3/4&quot;) in the chop, how thick should I make it? I was thinking 2&quot; - is that enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes 2&quot; would be more than sufficient. You can install dogs in vice linings much thinner than this but for the style of face vice you're making thick chops are usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lining&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Since you are going with hardwood you should give thought to lining the chop with leather to help prevent marring of workpieces in softer woods. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leather linings substantially increase grip at more modest clamping pressures anyway, reducing wear and tear on the mechanism. Not a big deal here but an important consideration with cheaper modern all-metal vices that aren't made as robustly as their vintage counterparts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2017-01-10T09:55:47.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5279" CreationDate="2017-01-10T10:14:06.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want literally waterproof — any amount of water can be left on the surface without concern — then you probably need to use a solid plastic or resin coating, such as a pour-on finish sold for bartops or an epoxy coating system (often sold as a marine finish). Note that these create a solid, plastic coating on the surface of the wood and some people are very much not fan of how that looks. To give an idea of just how thick these can be only one coat can be equivalent to maybe 20 coats of varnish, so &lt;em&gt;thick&lt;/em&gt;, and very glossy*. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you just need very good water-resistance as on a table or counter that will get a lot of sweaty glasses in the summer, will be wiped down regularly with a wet cloth etc. then varnish can provide sufficient protection. Any decent polyurethane varnish will work for this, both oil-based and waterbased types, although the former usually provide greater protection from water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this previous Answer for a little more detail, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4355/protecting-against-water-damage/4356#4356&quot;&gt;Protecting against water damage&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Long-term durability&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Not sure if this is a primary concern but thought it worth mentioning that thick plastic/resin coatings are essentially unrepairable. Being supremely tough, down the road if you get a scorch from a hot pan being put on the surface, a crack from something heavy being dropped on it or discolouration (epoxies and some resins tend to yellow eventually from light exposure) it is extremely difficult to remove the finish and get down to bare wood to prepare for refinishing. It's so difficult in fact that often people will throw the top away and build a new one rather than face the work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Varnish isn't nearly as tough or durable (it can still take quite a beating, just not in the same league) but it can be removed far more easily. So refinishing in due course is not only possible it's commonplace. Even a very substantial varnish application such as six full-strength coats applied by brush or roller could be taken off a counter in under an hour, less than 10 minutes with the right plane or scraping tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*The gloss level can be taken down fairly easily using hand methods after the finish has cured (e.g. rubbing down with steel wool or Scotch-Brite) but it won't reduce the apparent thickness of the coating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2017-01-10T10:14:06.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5291" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5293" CreationDate="2017-01-10T12:37:11.100" Score="1" ViewCount="470" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any issue with cutting along the edge as shown in the image in order to change the dimensions to 110 x 19 x 2400? What will the edge look like? Different to if I cut the long edge (2400mm)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, what is dressed timber? If I cut along this edge what will I have to do to make the surface look the same as the current surface and is it possible without a mill or some other expensive machinery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S14km.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S14km.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3141" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-01-12T13:52:24.437" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T13:52:24.437" Title="Cutting dressed pine to make it narrower" Tags="|wood|table-saw|cutting|hand-saw|pine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5291" CreationDate="2017-01-10T18:07:29.313" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;this is in response to the question clarified in the OP's comment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it's hard to know what &quot;dressed&quot; means without seeing it, but it most likely means machine planed and/or jointed and/or sanded to size. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A very large part of woodworking is about how to create nice looking cut surfaces, so I stand by my statement that this is both a simple and vague question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you are trying to match or exceed the stock you are buying from the store that is already surfaced. POssibly the simplest/cheapest way to do this (for a beginner) is with a sanding block and sandpaper, working progressively to finer grits until the surface looks like you want it. This job becomes much faster and easier if the initial dimensioning saw cut is clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2017-01-10T18:07:29.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5291" CreationDate="2017-01-10T19:41:07.287" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What will the edge look like? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It'll look like a sawn face usually looks, based on the wood type (the original cut of the board as well as the species) and the type of saw used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second point is more involved than it might at first appear. As this is a rip cut a rip saw will make a &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; cleaner cut than a crosscut or other saw doing the same cut, but the TPI of the saw is a big factor in either case. Additionally, traditional European saws&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; tend to leave a rougher surface than Japanese-style saws made for the same purpose (due to completely different tooth geometry). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to answer the question again in two ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If done using a European-style rip saw, it'll look sawn and require a fair amount of cleanup.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If done using a Japanese-style rip saw it'll still look sawn but generally a lot smoother, requiring far less cleanup.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A further question from the Comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I cut along this edge what will I have to do to make the surface look the same as the current surface and is it possible without a mill or some other expensive machinery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do this by sawing and then sanding (working through the grits from coarse to fine). Although I wouldn't recommend this approach&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; it will get you to where you need to be if it's the only option open to you. If you go this way I would recommend quickly making up an edge-sander&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; which will not only help you sand square to the face of the board it will also help keep the sanded edge straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, do be aware that doing the initial saw cut is probably more challenging than you realise ...it's quite difficult even for a pro to do very straight 2m+ saw cuts, even if using a rip saw and not a modern general-purpose panel saw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And before you start sawing make sure to do your initial marking up/layout with care, on both faces and both ends of the board, ideally using a marking gauge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Modern 'hardpoint' saws (saws with impulse-hardened teeth) can have modified geometry that is not like those of the textbook teeth in Western woodworking, some with features inspired by Asian saws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; I would either do it entirely by planing (using more than one plane by preference, although all the work can in theory be done with a single no. 4) or, saw the bulk of the unneeded portion off and then flatten and smooth the edge with a plane. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Various styles of edge-sanding block/jig:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fbma4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fbma4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Edge-sanding blocks&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-01-10T19:41:07.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5294" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-10T21:47:11.393" Score="1" ViewCount="335" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a box joint jig for my table saw and have the 'squares' if you will, a quarter inch. I found a very simple and nice design for my table saw to do this easily. But it showed that you need to have a dado blade in for it to work. I can not do this and wanted to know if there was a design alternative. Otherwise I do have a router table and that would be fine of course too. But there is also a Problem I see that will be in affect. There is only one track. Not two (I have basic equipment, only 16.5) and I think that would not be stable enough for that accurate cut. What design would be recommended? I want to do table saw but can only have one blade in, unless there is a way to do it with a router table with one track. I will be getting a band saw soon but that would take to long and that can be inaccurate...  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2017-01-11T13:33:07.233" Title="Making a box joint jig" Tags="|jig|box-joint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5295" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-10T23:01:20.880" Score="4" ViewCount="3309" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sometimes do odd jobs in a church, including rehanging doors. The church is 400 years old, I think the doors are a lot newer but still 100-150 years old.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting the hinges off is not easy (to say the least) but I at least want to help whoever is doing my job in another 150 years. So I pre-bore and lubricate the screws. My father was a chippie and used vaseline, but a fellow odd-jobber said he uses soap.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best lubricant? soap, vaseline or something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3158" LastActivityDate="2017-01-11T17:33:53.823" Title="Lubricating screws" Tags="|screws|hinges|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5294" CreationDate="2017-01-10T23:03:38.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Box joint jigs generally count on being able to cut the slot in a single pass. If you want a 1/4 inch cut, that means you need a 1/4 inch thick cut, which is why a dado blade is used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theoretically there could be a jig which registered off the two sides of the cut and let you take multiple passes with a normal blade, but that would be a rather finicky design, I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't use a dado blade for whatever reason, another approach would be a finger-joint jig that runs on your router table, using a quarter inch straight bit to make the cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2017-01-10T23:03:38.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5295" CreationDate="2017-01-10T23:25:06.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're referring to the actual screws used to hold the hinge onto the jamb, and holding the door onto the hinge, a possible solution might be to take all the hinges off the doors and the jambs, and inject JB-Weld or similar into all the screw holes. Make sure it is really packed in there. Wait for it to &lt;em&gt;fully&lt;/em&gt; cure, then run an appropriately sized drill and tap through it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tapping machine screw threads into the jambs and doors will let you use machine screws that are much better and easier to take out and put back in many times over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="68" LastActivityDate="2017-01-10T23:25:06.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5295" CreationDate="2017-01-11T01:57:11.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is the best lubricant? soap, vaseline or something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure anyone can say. I've read recommendations for both soap and Vaseline as lubricants from multiple sources spanning over 100 years, indicating they were both used widely In addition, and in no particular order: linseed oil, candle wax, paste wax and a few other things that aren't commonly found in workshops today including tallow or mutton fat and lard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose you should find out whichever gives the best lubrication in a side-by-side comparison and use that but my suspicion is that most of the commonly recommended lubricants for wood screws work about the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; lubrication of screws used on show surfaces should be done with restraint as there's a risk of staining the wood around the screw hole if too much of an oily lubricant is used. Also if you're finishing after the screws are driven home any grease, wax or oil that gets on the surface can cause problems when you apply the finish, so some discretion is advised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-01-11T01:57:11.827" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5294" CreationDate="2017-01-11T03:04:00.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's possible using a relatively complex screw advance box joint jig. It's difficult to explain, but there's a great video demonstrating it &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/oCEgajkvVGE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, you move the workpiece incrementally to make multiple, somewhat precisely spaced cuts for each finger. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you'll want a square cutting table saw blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1655" LastEditorUserId="1655" LastEditDate="2017-01-11T13:33:07.233" LastActivityDate="2017-01-11T13:33:07.233" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5295" CreationDate="2017-01-11T05:04:08.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My tradition, going back three or four generations, is: soap. I keep the tag ends of bath bar soap in a ziplock with a tiny bit of water and wipe wood screw threads across the soap before inserting them in the tapered predrilled holes. It's most helpful in hardwoods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I'm not dogmatic, wax would work I'm pretty sure and boiled Linseed oil sounds interesting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you can guaranty that you can insert a machine screw insert exactly in the right place and perpendicular to the surface I would avoid them. Good idea when you can use a drill press, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please no JB weld. If you do decide you must use an epoxy use WEST, System 3 or equivalent, and fill with cabosil, although no epoxy will make it easier for the next volunteer carpenter. If there is damage scarf in a new piece of wood, then you can use an epoxy, but PVA would probably work just as well here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3159" LastActivityDate="2017-01-11T05:04:08.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5291" CreationDate="2017-01-11T09:06:35.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I recognise the site that you are buying from (Bunnings) I can assume you are from Australia and dealing with &quot;dressed&quot; or DAR (dressed all round) timber. I'm not sure that the designation is international, my understanding is that it would be called S4S or surfaced 4 sides in the US. Basically what it means is that all faces are straight and flat, oppposing faces are parallel to each other and adjacent faces are square to each other. This is usually done using a jointer, planer and/or sander as Aaron mentioned. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Others will be able to give you more insight into the actual process of large scale production of S4S timber, but there's nothing magic about it. If you make a rip cut in it and want to restore the edge to its &quot;dressed&quot; state you will need to make sure the cut is square and then sand it to the flatness you desire (assuming you don't have access to a jointer or planer)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="495" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2017-01-11T17:42:39.687" LastActivityDate="2017-01-11T17:42:39.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5295" CreationDate="2017-01-11T17:33:53.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bee's wax. Time honored and true. It comes in small blocks, just rub the screw threads across the block. As a union carpenter on a major industrial job, I learned this from a old timer fifty years ago and still use it myself. I mostly use it to more easily insert screws but I suppose it would lead to easier extraction as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd avoid oils for reasons cited by others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2762" LastActivityDate="2017-01-11T17:33:53.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5303" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5310" CreationDate="2017-01-12T02:54:20.243" Score="3" ViewCount="998" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was just noodling a possible milling operation for some slide-in dividers and was thinking it might actually be faster and more accurate in the set-up if I did it on my (metalworking) vertical milling machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This raised a question I've puzzled about several times, which is why woodworking router motors spin so darn fast. The top speed on my milling machine is about 2500 RPM. My go-to router spins at 25,000 and my trim router at 30,000 RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I kind of suppose the reason is that a hand-held router has to be light-ish, so can't have a big 1HP motor, and so the inertia and smaller chip size (therefore lower cutting force) produced by a high-rev cutter allows a small fractional horsepower motor to be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it also occurs to me that perhaps wood cuts best at high cutter surface-velocity (surface feet per minute, SFM) and the generally small diameter bits used in a router just require the revs to get the required cutter surface velocity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone who knows the technical details set me straight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T09:50:21.730" Title="Why do (electric) routers spin so fast?" Tags="|power-tools|router|cutting|router-bit|blade|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5304" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-12T03:53:25.263" Score="5" ViewCount="722" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building some 7' by 3' bookcases with mix of plywood and solid oak for the sides and back (mostly plywood), but full solid oak shelving for strength. I'm worried that the ~9&quot; depth to the shelves will allow up to about 1/8&quot; of movement. If I used the online formula correctly. Since the sides and shelves are constructed so differently, and will thus move differently, I'm assuming I can't just secure the fixed shelves to the sides and back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My primary question is: am I right about the movement, and if so, is it sufficient to place the fixed shelves in a dado and only glue the front couple inches? (I want the front of the fixed shelves to look solidly attached throughout the year.) Secondarily, can I &quot;hide&quot; the movement at the back, for instance by running a 1/4&quot; dado and only insert the first 1/8&quot; inch during construction (it's winter, so it's probably near my low humidity point)? I didn't plan quite far enough ahead to select my boards for grain direction, so I'm assuming the worst.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a rough look at my design, for reference; green is plywood, and the rest is solid. The topmost and bottom visible shelf, as well as one not visible near the very bottom are the fixed shelves I'm asking about attaching. (The rest of the shelves will be adjustable, so I just need to allow room for their largest size, and accept some gap.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/89NRj.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/89NRj.png&quot; alt=&quot;Bookcase Design&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="485" LastActivityDate="2018-03-02T19:56:08.250" Title="Shelf movement in a plywood bookcase" Tags="|wood-movement|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5304" CreationDate="2017-01-12T04:09:25.107" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks good! Your calculation and assumptions about movement appear to be spot on.  The plywood faces with solid oak edges will have almost no movement over the year, but the shelves will.  Your solution to leave a gap in the dado joint at the rear should work fine.  Glue them up on to the front styles and the first several inches of the side panels.  Leave a small gap in the side dadoes as well (1/16&quot;) so that the shelves move freely in those slots as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T04:09:25.107" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5306" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5307" CreationDate="2017-01-12T05:48:30.257" Score="2" ViewCount="2494" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am designing a chair that has an adjustable length. I want to have 1/4&quot; steel pins that go through a hole in a bracket, through a 2x4, and come out to go through a hole in the other side of the bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to install metal tubes in the 2x4 to prevent fretting; I want non-threaded inserts long enough to go through a 2x4 (I'm not sure which direction yet). I cannot even find a name for this hardware, let alone a vendor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any information is welcome&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3164" LastActivityDate="2021-11-16T11:53:33.747" Title="Looking for non-threaded inserts" Tags="|furniture|design|hardware-identification|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5306" CreationDate="2017-01-12T06:09:53.617" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The name for hardware that has a metal shaft sliding through it is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plain_bearing#Bushing&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;bushing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ltt7e.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ltt7e.png&quot; alt=&quot;Flanged bushing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However it will be difficult to find one long enough to go all the way through a 2x4. So like scanny suggested, you might just buy a length of metal tube and use that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="441" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T06:09:53.617" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5303" CreationDate="2017-01-12T06:19:50.760" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, trying to cut wood with a slowly spinning cutter results in a lot of tear-out when going cross-grain. I assume the reason is that unlike metal, wood is quite soft and flexible across the grain, but quite strong along the grain. This causes it to move out of the way of the cutting edge, instead of splitting cleanly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having sharp router bits helps with this. After all, one can cut cross-grain with a sharp hand plane, which is going pretty slowly. But another way to reduce tear-out is to have the cutting happen very fast, so that the inertia of the wood keeps it in place long enough to be split by the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="441" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T06:19:50.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5303" CreationDate="2017-01-12T09:49:40.877" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also, you could look at it that the milling machine runs slowly.  It would be more productive to mill &amp;amp; drill at wood speeds, but the cutter would get too hot, hence the miserable cutting speeds of metalworking machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1572" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T09:49:40.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5303" CreationDate="2017-01-12T09:50:21.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I kind of suppose the reason is that a hand-held router has to be light-ish, so can't have a big 1HP motor, and so the inertia and smaller chip size (therefore lower cutting force) produced by a high-rev cutter allows a small fractional horsepower motor to be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI there are 1-2hp professional routers as well as production routers with motors in excess of 3hp. All are still hand-held, although admittedly the heavy and very powerful ones are beasts and need strength to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;But it also occurs to me that perhaps wood cuts best at high cutter surface-velocity (surface feet per minute, SFM) and the generally small diameter bits used in a router just require the revs to get the required cutter surface velocity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think this is as much a factor as one might at first think. Wood can be cut extremely well at very low speeds if the cutting edge is very sharp (think paring with a chisel). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Router bits tend not to have edges that sharp, and the high speed does help compensate for this — although that's not the reason for the speed, the same speeds were around back when bits were commonly sharper because their cutting edges were made of steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the things the high rotational speed is yielding that's less obvious is a &lt;em&gt;flatter&lt;/em&gt; cut surface. So for a given feed rate the interval between one cutting edge and the next coming into contact with the wood is reduced, meaning the surface is less likely to show a repeating cut/not cut pattern&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as basic as the following seems speedy cutters simply yield faster results. Not long ago a wide range of cutter heads were sold for mounting in power drills, for routing and other milling jobs (including panel raising if you can believe that). While they were apparently capable of good results by comparison they worked much more slowly and the advent of lower-cost routers that most home woodworkers could afford killed them off pretty comprehensively, which is a shame as I think they would still have something to offer&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; You get this is you use a feed rate that's too high, the bit's edges then aren't keeping up with the advance of the wood so slight gaps open up in the cutting action, yielding to scalloping. In some woods it can lead to terrible tearing too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; A couple of advantages for the home woodworker are that they were much easier for the user to sharpen (carbon steel and HSS, no carbide) and they would tend to produce more parings/shavings and less dust, certainly much less fine dust as routers do, which is a boon for anyone who doesn't have the means or space for a proper dust-extraction system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T09:50:21.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5304" CreationDate="2017-01-12T11:30:25.637" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My primary question is: am I right about the movement, and if so, is it sufficient to place the fixed shelves in a dado and only glue the front couple inches? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes and yes. You could also fix the shelves at the front by toenailing them in from beneath or using pocket screws (could also be used in addition to glue, although there's no benefit to doing both).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Secondarily, can I &quot;hide&quot; the movement at the back, for instance by running a 1/4&quot; dado and only insert the first 1/8&quot; inch during construction (it's winter, so it's probably near my low humidity point)? I didn't plan quite far enough ahead to select my boards for grain direction, so I'm assuming the worst.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes this is a good solution, much like the allowances allowed for in some things made from tongue-and-groove. Be generous in your spacing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, you made an error at the outset in assuming that the solid-wood shelves would be stronger than plywood. Broadly speaking quality plywood will be comparable to most solid woods, of course without any attendant worries about seasonal movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you hadn't already bought your materials plywood would presumably be significantly cheaper as well, so normally this would all be upside. The oak can be put aside for use in a future project of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other reason for going with plywood in your case is I'm not sure there is sufficient allowance for movement. Doing a few quick sums with some guesses on my part I'm getting figures between roughly 1/5&quot; and as high as 1/4&quot;. And if your seasonal humidity swings are wider than my assumption the internal moisture change in the wood will be greater than the 8% I've allowed for, obviously meaning that movement could be slightly more than this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2017-01-15T08:21:01.040" LastActivityDate="2017-01-15T08:21:01.040" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5306" CreationDate="2017-01-12T12:46:38.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found them as 'sleeve bearings' on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fastenal.com/products/sleeve-bearings?term=sleeve&amp;amp;r=%20~%7Ccategoryl1:%22603582%20Power%20Transmission%209and%20Motors%22%7C~%20~%7Ccategoryl2:%22610631%20Unmounted%20Bearings%22%7C~%20~%7Ccategoryl3:%22603587%20Sleeve%20Bearings%22%7C~&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fastenal&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T12:46:38.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5313" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-01-12T14:19:09.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other tags, such as table-saw, hand-saw, panel-saw, saber-saw, scroll-saw, band-saw better categorize the question for users on this site.  For questions simply addressing the act of sawing and not a type consider using the tag &quot;cutting&quot; or  &quot;technique&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-01-12T14:27:45.330" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T14:27:45.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5314" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-01-12T14:19:09.540" Score="0" Body="This tag is considered too generic and should be avoided. Please use more specific saw tags." OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-01-12T14:19:09.540" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T14:19:09.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5315" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-01-12T14:21:35.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wYWk1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wYWk1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Panel Saw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-01-12T14:31:32.710" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T14:31:32.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5316" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-01-12T14:21:35.447" Score="0" Body="About uses and techniques, features to look for etc." OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-01-12T14:21:35.447" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T14:21:35.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5317" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-01-12T14:22:14.927" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pNI3N.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pNI3N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sabre saw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-01-12T14:37:15.630" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T14:37:15.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5318" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-01-12T14:22:14.927" Score="0" Body="About uses and techniques, features to look for etc." OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-01-12T14:22:14.927" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T14:22:14.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5319" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-01-12T14:23:04.443" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Cr39.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Cr39.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Scroll Saw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-01-12T14:35:18.573" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T14:35:18.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5320" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-01-12T14:23:04.443" Score="0" Body="About uses and techniques, features to look for etc." OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-01-12T14:23:04.443" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T14:23:04.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5321" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-01-12T14:24:50.540" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-01-12T14:24:50.540" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T14:24:50.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5322" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-01-12T14:24:50.540" Score="0" Body="About uses and techniques, features to look for etc." OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-01-12T14:24:50.540" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T14:24:50.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5323" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-01-12T14:25:19.387" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-01-12T14:25:19.387" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T14:25:19.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5324" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-01-12T14:25:19.387" Score="0" Body="About uses and techniques, features to look for etc." OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-01-12T14:25:19.387" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T14:25:19.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5325" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-01-12T14:26:25.177" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-01-12T14:26:25.177" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T14:26:25.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5326" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-01-12T14:26:25.177" Score="0" Body="About uses and techniques, features to look for etc." OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-01-12T14:26:25.177" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T14:26:25.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5327" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-01-12T14:26:51.937" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-01-12T14:26:51.937" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T14:26:51.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5328" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-01-12T14:26:51.937" Score="0" Body="About uses and techniques, features to look for etc." OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-01-12T14:26:51.937" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T14:26:51.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5329" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-01-12T14:27:18.000" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-01-12T14:27:18.000" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T14:27:18.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5330" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-01-12T14:27:18.000" Score="0" Body="About uses and techniques, features to look for etc." OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-01-12T14:27:18.000" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T14:27:18.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5332" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-12T20:32:24.937" Score="1" ViewCount="513" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making some wood hinges for a table that will have a box in the back and simply open up. I did find a good design for making a wood hinge. The only question that remains: How should I cut the sections out between the hinge &quot;knuckles&quot; (if that is what they are called)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of having them on a sled and running it through the router to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="94" LastEditDate="2017-01-13T17:10:17.217" LastActivityDate="2018-05-18T14:27:33.913" Title="Advice on making wood hinges" Tags="|wood|dowel|hinges|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5333" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-14T05:08:38.283" Score="10" ViewCount="4359" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got a lathe and playing around with it I've made some cups roughly the size of a shot glass. My cousin immediately wanted to buy them off me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't found any information that seems settled on whether or not there is a good finish that will hold up under exposure to alcohol. I have found some for sale which use a polyurethane finish, and I've seen shellac recommended. At the same time, I've seen a lot of information stating it doesn't work or doesn't last long. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If shellac or poly works short term, then that's fine if I just want to have them around for novelty. But I wouldn't want to sell something that would wear out quickly or start looking badly in a short amount of time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a finish that will last for a decent amount of time, like poly or shellac? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3171" LastEditorUserId="2524" LastEditDate="2017-01-16T19:45:50.823" LastActivityDate="2024-01-22T06:07:01.373" Title="What is a good finish for shot glasses?" Tags="|finishing|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5333" CreationDate="2017-01-14T09:18:18.813" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;My advice would be not to make glasses out of wood so I'll put that out there right at the start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only sure-fire ways of waterproofing wood are to completely encase it in a film finish, or impregnate it with something waterproof. Both of these &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; possible at home, but you then have to worry about the food-safe aspect of whatever you're using. I don't want to overstate this since I side with the argument that nearly all finishes are safe for direct food contact once fully cured*. However, alcoholic beverages present a particular concern since of course they contain two main solvents that would be in contact with whatever you use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;and I've seen shellac recommended&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;o_O &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Classic example of being careful of stuff you read on the Internet. I can't imagine how someone can recommend shellac for anything like this with a straight face as it is famous for reacting poorly to exposure to water and &lt;em&gt;it is soluble in alcohol&lt;/em&gt;. It will literally be washed off the surface if used for a shot glass! Shellac isn't toxic, but still I wouldn't want to drink it in my shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If shellac or poly works short term, then that's fine if I just want to have them around for novelty. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good coating of polyurethane may do you then. Just to be clear I'm referring to oil-based poly, not the waterbased kind which is a very different thing (some could work, others definitely not so best to stick with oil-based which is more of a known quantity). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to build a full film on the surface to ensure it is liquid-proof, so that's at minimum 3-4 coats of unthinned varnish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a finish that will last for a decent amount of time&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously &quot;decent amount of time&quot; is open-ended but for something that'll hold up longer, excluding the impregnation options which I don't know about, an epoxy coating would fit this bill. But epoxy-based finishes are not inexpensive and application can be a bit of a bear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wax&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I don't know if you want to run a test with this and see but impregnating with wax is one of the ways traditional wood and leather drinking vessels were waterproofed in the past. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is to soak the item in melted wax (you'll want to weight them down a bit so they don't float, any glass marbles in the house?) and it gets incorporated deeply into the wood as it displaces air and water. The waxy surface feel that wax will impart may be a little off-putting but waxes are famously inert and are not soluble in either water or alcohol. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Not everyone agrees with this and some &lt;em&gt;very strongly&lt;/em&gt; disagree (they may believe for example that no finishes are safe unless 100% natural, which is hard to reconcile with waterproofing something to hold liquid). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-01-14T09:18:18.813" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5333" CreationDate="2017-01-14T13:14:15.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Graphus mentioned, finishing for water- and alcohol- proofness is difficult, especially considering the food-safe requirement. I would suggest experimenting with an unfinished shot glass. I would look into cooperage for spirits (especially wine aging barrels), which are predominantly made out of American white oak, although red cedar is also used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you should note the main difference between a barrel and a turned glass - in a barrel the liquid should not encounter end-grain (especially if the staves are made from riven lumber), while in a turned glass you will have end-grain at the bottom or sides (depending on how you turn the wood). I'd turn one out of white oak and test it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2017-01-14T13:14:15.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5336" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5337" CreationDate="2017-01-14T23:02:09.990" Score="3" ViewCount="1174" Body="&lt;p&gt;100 reclaimed barn wood planks: 4.5 foot long X 6 inch wide X &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;3/4&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; inch thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trying to get the weight down by half, by thinning to &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;3/8&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; inch thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5224/can-barn-wood-planks-be-planed-and-how-thin&quot;&gt;Can barn wood planks be planed and how thin?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Planing could work but has significant risk (and some pieces have large long cracks and holes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, what about &lt;strong&gt;sanding each one:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it possible or realistic to sand to 3/8 inch&#xA;thickness (or thin by half) ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Any possible damage by sanding ? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What type of sander would work ?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How long is this going to take ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;EDIT&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Intended Use:&lt;/strong&gt; The wood planks are intended to be attached to a ceiling in a room. It is intended that the patina of one side of the barn wood is saved for it's aesthetics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3115" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2017-01-16T16:07:41.480" Title="Is it drastically more work to sand down barn wood instead of planing?" Tags="|sanding|reclaimed-wood|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5336" CreationDate="2017-01-15T01:01:36.690" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A simple test on one plank will tell you that sanding is not practical for reducing the thickness by 3/8&quot;. Even planing them in a thickness planer will take 5-10 passes and sanding, even with course 60 grit, takes a lot less thickness off on each run, plus you will go through a lot of sanding belts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you choose to plane them I recommend that you closely examine and prep each board before running it through a planer.  Check closely for any nails and clean them with a wire brush to remove as much grit on the rough sawn surfaces to reduce the risk of damaging your planer knives.  Even so, don't be surprised if your knives require replacement by the time you are through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2017-01-15T01:01:36.690" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5338" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-15T02:12:12.637" Score="6" ViewCount="1712" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a woodworking newbie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently I decided to obtain a router table and am curious why some woodworkers choose to make their own rather than purchase a manufactured one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some reasons to build your own vs. buying one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will appreciate it if you share what features are included in your self-built router tables vs. those from equipment companies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2578" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2017-01-19T06:40:12.563" LastActivityDate="2020-07-08T09:34:17.197" Title="Why choose a DIY router table over a mananufactured version?" Tags="|router|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5338" CreationDate="2017-01-15T09:08:35.240" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why choose a DIY router table over a manufactured version?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Typically cheaper. Obviously a lot depends on what you make it from (phenolic-laminated HD-MDF versus bare MDF from the local big-box) and what you add to it (commercial mitre gauges, fences etc.).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More feature-rich (if desired). Some people are happy with very basic router tables because they provide all they need&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Only the features you want and no others. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infinitely adaptable with basic woodworking tools and skills.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can be more stable. Particularly (but not exclusively) lower-cost router tables are neither as robustly built nor as stable as you'd like. Obviously dependent on materials choices and build quality a homemade router table can be small but heavy and completely resistant to racking if put together properly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Satisfaction of having made it yourself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I will be appreciated if you share what are included in your self-built router table plans that are advantages over those from equipment companies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the chief advantages a homemade router table can provide I think is a split fence. Split fences are available on commercial router tables, but generally not at the budget end, and even when they are provided they can be a little wobbly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Strongly recommend you go this way initially, then figure if you need more features after actually using the table for a while. Many of the &quot;Oh that's a good idea!&quot; features are just that, &lt;em&gt;a good idea&lt;/em&gt; and of little day-to-day use to the average owner (just as many of the router bits in a typical set will see little or no use with most buyers). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most basic of all router tables is a sheet of some board material (doesn't matter so much what it is) with a hole roughly in the centre for the bit to poke through, clamped to the edge of an existing table. The fence is provided by a straight piece of 1x2 clamped to it. Yes this really is enough, and for many it means it can be built entirely from scraps, giving a total materials cost of $0/£0/€0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-01-15T09:08:35.240" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5336" CreationDate="2017-01-15T09:11:13.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it drastically more work to sand down barn wood instead of planing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a wide-belt sander? No. Sanding it by any other means? Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-01-15T09:11:13.173" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5336" CreationDate="2017-01-16T16:07:41.480" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bandsaw the planks in half. They'll net out slightly under 3/8's but not only will it be faster, you'll end up with twice as many usable boards afterwards, because you'd be able to keep both faces. So it's a win-win. If you don't have a bandsaw, or access to one, then taking them to a commercial shop or even another hobby woodworker would be a good bet. Wide-belt sanders as were mentioned are large and expensive machines, but almost every serious wood shop has a bandsaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="68" LastActivityDate="2017-01-16T16:07:41.480" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5342" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-16T22:14:58.187" Score="3" ViewCount="241" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm an artist new to wood burning (pyrographics) and I just finished a female nude on pine plywood.I would like to add a finish to the figure (not the background) as a subtle emphasis. But I don't want the color to change and want very little - if any - shine. I would love to make it look like skin in fact... almost soft, silky...&#xA;Since it's wall art, I wont need much protection qualities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After about 100 blogs, I think I should look at a water white matte finish? Is there a more suitable finish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would love some more help/ input. &#xA;Keep in mind I virtually know nothing :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8jOev.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8jOev.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;female nude by DayDreamDrawer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3182" LastEditorUserId="2524" LastEditDate="2017-01-17T11:47:50.427" LastActivityDate="2017-01-17T11:47:50.427" Title="Finish for pine plywood art piece" Tags="|finishing|plywood|finish-selection|pine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4487" CreationDate="2017-01-16T23:46:14.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem that you describe is common in spindle turning when the turning piece is too flexible. A condition referred to as whipping occurs when you press your too into the workpiece it flexes or slightly bends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't say exactly how stiff a spindle must be in order to avoid whip, but if you can see the piece bend by pressing it with the force that you would apply when cutting, you are in for trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are ways to keep a spindle from bending.  They basically entail bracing the spindle from the back side. You can buy devices called &quot;steady rests&quot; which are used commercially and some form is used by pool cue manufacturers.  I just Googled &quot;steady rest lathe&quot; and found that they are apparently available for well under a hundred dollars (US).  All three wheels are adjusted to be in contact with the spindle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kPtPP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kPtPP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Steady-rest from PSI&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From personal experience, I can tell you that a duplicator is not the way to go, unless you also have a steady rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using the steady rest, you will do your cutting where the rest isn't, so you will need to move it from time to time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2017-01-16T23:46:14.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5342" CreationDate="2017-01-17T07:16:00.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After about 100 blogs, I think I should look at a water white matt finish? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. That's the ideal thing for what you're looking for I think. Specifically, a waterbased varnish or &quot;waterbased finish&quot; (these are often the same basic thing despite the name difference).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend you apply it by roller instead of by brush, much easier to get consistently even results over a large flat area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-01-17T07:16:00.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5346" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5350" CreationDate="2017-01-17T16:09:30.060" Score="5" ViewCount="4619" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry if I'm not using correct terms here, I'm kind of new to woodworking (this also means this might be a duplicate question and I didn't know how to search for it). My dad and I are going to do my first big[ish] woodworking project together in a few weeks. the current plan is to use mango wood and half-lap joints to make something that looks roughly like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tcjUF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tcjUF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My wife really loves the look of this table in the picture. I'm worrying about the picture-framing and expansion&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this a crazy idea for any particular reasons (expansion/contraction, other things I haven't thought of)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this not a crazy idea, but is anything I'm planning on/likely planning on going to make it one? (is my choice of joint a bad one, is there a significantly better joint for it, is there some gotcha in mango wood)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not a question, but if there's anything else you'd suggest, I'm listening!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks, y'all!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3185" LastEditorUserId="3327" LastEditDate="2017-02-20T12:41:07.947" LastActivityDate="2017-02-20T12:41:07.947" Title="Do I need to worry about expansion and shrinkage for my table top with wood joined at 45 degree angles?" Tags="|joinery|wood-movement|tabletop|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5346" CreationDate="2017-01-17T16:30:28.490" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make the center piece plywood or similar to avoid movement. As long as the mitered sides are the same width you should see similar movement along the joints. Another option is to use quartersawn material to orient the movement in the direction of the thickness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastActivityDate="2017-01-17T16:30:28.490" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5346" CreationDate="2017-01-17T16:40:49.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Analyzing the wood movement here takes a bit of head scratching.  Typically, the wood will expand and contract across the width of the table and the common response is to accommodate that movement with a breadboard end condition.  However in this case the expansion of the end board is significant due 45 degree joint at the corners and deep width of the end boards.  My first impression is that the 45 degree corner joints will want to pull apart over time.  However, this movement will be resisted if the lap joints connect the width and length boards.  This all adds up to a lot of stress in the corner joints which, if not accommodated, will eventually result in failure, although where it will express is not predictable. Note that the less variance in temperature and humidity on the piece, the less dramatic the failure would be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One solution to release this stress might be to avoid continuously gluing the adjacent wood planks to each together, instead creating a series of rectangular frames that nest on the lap joints at their perimeter. Screw the frames to plywood on the underside with over-sized holes in the boards to allow movement of the top boards relative to the plywood. Allow minor spaces in the lap joints of each frame to cover the movement between them.  The glued lap joints at the corners of each rectangle should prevent gaps forming at the diagonal joints. Providing a beveled edge between adjacent boards with a spacing of approx. 1/16&quot; at each joint should be adequate for most conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2017-01-17T16:40:49.290" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5333" CreationDate="2017-01-17T18:16:27.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wooden bars (in pubs) are often finished with a layer of epoxy. It is strong, resilient, impervious to liquids, and goes on thick, so you only need one coat. You should be able to find large bottles of epoxy resin and hardener at your local hardware store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3187" LastActivityDate="2017-01-17T18:16:27.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5346" CreationDate="2017-01-18T09:08:54.417" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm worrying about the picture-framing and expansion&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good eye. There are multiple issues with the design of the table pictured, if you want to make it from solid wood. The first is not obvious, it's the 'edge banding' around the periphery. This frames the table, which is nearly always a very bad idea if the tabletop is made from solid wood (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5255/thick-tabletop-movement&quot;&gt;recent Q&amp;amp;A&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is one of the things that make me suspect that the table in the photo is made from plywood or another board material with veneers applied. I actually hope it is because there is an alternative explanation unfortunately — that it is built exactly as it looks, which will inevitably lead to cracks, various joints opening up and possibly other issues. It's sadly too common these days for things to be built with no consideration to wood movement. Periodically I see pieces built poorly like this where cracks have begun to form even before the piece has left the showroom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more obvious picture-framing in this top isn't the usual way it's tried, with just a relatively narrow frame around a wide field. And as a result it may be possible to do this using solid wood throughout. The main issue with picture-framing normally is the inevitable expansion and contraction of the central panel, which will push apart the framing (breaking some of the mitres) during wetter months and shrink in away from it during dry months, opening up gaps on the long sides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here the centre is just the one board and it's not too wide so you might be able to get away with it (although it will strain the joints somewhat). It would be highly advisable to use quarter-sawn wood for this centre board at least to limit its movement. QS material used throughout would actually be desirable, although what's available in your chosen species is going to limit you here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the mitred elements are so wide here you do have to be concerned about those long mitre joints. Glued-up panels are primarily joined with simple butt joints which because they're long-grain joints are very strong. The 45° cuts making up four of the major joints in this top are end-grain to end-grain joints, which are famously weak and in need of reinforcement. And that's even in a picture frame which will be oriented vertically with no strain put upon it but its own weight! Not a tabletop that someone might lean their weight on..... so I think the table's apron will need to be large enough that it provides good support out to near the edges or you'll run into problems in service..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2017-01-18T09:08:54.417" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5352" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5353" CreationDate="2017-01-18T21:10:46.933" Score="1" ViewCount="9437" Body="&lt;p&gt;In making a new tabletop for wife's sewing table, I cut some 3/4&quot; MDF and applied a base of Minwax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner, and then Minwax Dark Walnut Stain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After letting it sit for a day, I noticed some areas that could go a bit darker. Fatal mistake: I used the bottom-of-the-can remnants from a couple of older cans of the same stain that I had kicking around, and clearly didn't mix well enough - now I have some nasty looking dark streaks/swirls. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the best way to recover from this? I know MDF is cheap and time is pricey, but just as a knowledge base thing, it'd be good to know if there's a way to re-establish a consistent stain via sanding or some other method.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have a can of Minwax Clear Satin Polyurethane spray at ready, with the consideration that it would be a suitable finishing coat for the purposes of a work/sewing tabletop - if that's not a good idea it be great to know too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Avhhd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Avhhd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Splotchy!&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3189" LastEditorUserId="22" LastEditDate="2017-01-19T00:35:19.440" LastActivityDate="2017-01-19T12:01:47.377" Title="Best way to correct splotchy stain job on MDF?" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5352" CreationDate="2017-01-18T22:34:46.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, the only way to correct uneven stain is by sanding to bare wood (in your case, MDF) and reapplying the stain. There isn't a way to rescue the stain. Sanding doesn't just lighten the stain, instead it strips the stained wood off. And once you've done that, it's also not possible to re-stain the stripped area and blend it evenly with the other stained areas. So the whole thing has to come off before you can put new stain on, I'm afraid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, in these cases it's often much faster to use a card scraper instead of sanding. A quick google search confirms that you can use card scrapers on MDF, with the usual caveat that MDF dulls a tool's sharp edges faster than wood. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1134/what-are-the-differences-between-sanding-and-scraping/1159#1159&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; for more information on how to use a card scraper, and the pros and cons of scraping vs. sanding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2017-01-18T22:34:46.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5354" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5357" CreationDate="2017-01-19T05:39:46.387" Score="4" ViewCount="1683" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm joining 4x4's in a tee with a mortise &amp;amp; tenon, and am not sure what the dimensions should be. Everywhere I've looked has either contradictory or nonsensical information, so I thought I'd add some more noise to the giant archive that is the Internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in the table that I am building:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WpCPG.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WpCPG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BUT, it feels like the bottom/left joint should be vertically aligned, as the longer dimension of the tenon would provide more torque resistance. If I do that, though, there won't be much material left outside of the mortise on top and bottom, so THAT seems stupid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I correct? (As in, is my Sketchup wrong, and the bottom-most board should be rotate 90 degrees?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I'm unsure of the correct mortise / tenon dimensions when joining two 4x4s. I've seen references to 1/3 of the stock depth, five times tenon length, etc. Most of these seem to be written by and for people who already understand how this works. Much like the EE textbooks in undergrad, such explanations are useless to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My geometry-saturated brain (game developer) tells me to make the tenons 1 3/4&quot; square and deep and call it a day, but I really don't want to make my wife a new table in 3 years if this sags / cracks / whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3096" LastEditorUserId="3096" LastEditDate="2017-01-19T05:46:10.423" LastActivityDate="2017-01-19T12:39:21.023" Title="Tenon dimensions and orientation" Tags="|joinery|mortise-and-tenon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4205" CreationDate="2017-01-19T11:55:29.077" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When traditional joinery techniques were employed on buildings, it was in the form of timber framing, not stick framing. Timber framing employs fewer, larger pieces of wood, which means that the joints can be heftier (especially important for softwood), and there are fewer of them to cut (saving your time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are committed to using traditional methods on your shed, may I suggest timber framing instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3187" LastActivityDate="2017-01-19T11:55:29.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5352" CreationDate="2017-01-19T12:01:47.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wood stain comes in two broad categories, dye-based and pigment-based. The oil-based stain you used is the latter type, either entirely or mostly coloured with pigment&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; suspended in an oily binder. Pigment is actual granular particles and even though the particles are very tiny it doesn't soak into the wood like dyes do. This is why oil-based stains are known to obscure grain more than water- or alcohol-based stains, they actually sit on the surface more than being absorbed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this was done with oil-based stain you might be able to remove some of it from the surface by wiping it away with its original solvent, mineral spirits (UK: white spirit). Just like with oil-based varnishes if the curing process hasn't progressed too far it will still dissolve in its original solvent, but if it has cured too much it'll work weakly or not at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The usual next thing to try if spirits don't work is a stronger solvent, acetone being the usual pick. But I think here it would probably be best not to try that because the substrate is MDF and not solid wood. Better then to paint and possibly then varnish, or scrape/sand back to clean wood and begin again with your original plan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What now?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Back to bare wood&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This is the usual coarse of action when a stain job has gone wrong. But partly because this is MDF and partly because it's a sewing table I think you should give thought to painting instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly because it will save you from all the MDF dust. Due to the structure of MDF (it's wood fibre bonded together with resin) scraping doesn't offer the usual advantage that it does on solid wood, where you mostly produce small shavings rather than dust and leave a beautifully smooth surface behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scraping still works on MDF, it can remove the surface very efficiently, but once you've gone through the factory face the material immediately under is noticeably more fibrous and open-textured, so the surface won't be pristine and beautiful and it is usually a bit of a pig to refinish&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Paint&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You can paint directly on top of oil-based stains once they are fully 'dry'. Oil-based interior paints for trimwork are usually alkyd enamels these days and they're quite durable and would be a good pick here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Painting saves you the time and effort of scraping/sanding and you won't have lots of dust to deal with. A light scuff-sand or rub over with Scotch-Brite or steel wool to prep the surface and you can start painting. Apply with a foam roller for best results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For maximum wear resistance you can varnish after you paint&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;, although many oil-based paints are acceptably tough and durable. Even though the surface may not be quite as tough unvarnished there is an advantage down the line, if you get wear-through at edges or corners you can easily repaint those areas. Touch ups like this would be more difficult to blend in if you'd varnished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Flip it over and use the other side&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Not sure what if anything you've done to the opposite side that would prevent you doing this but if you've done nothing to the MDF it should be just as it came from the store and you can start again with no further effort expended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may be so obvious you didn't think of it, it's surprising how often this is overlooked as an option!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edges&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;In case you weren't planning on it, I'd recommend you either apply solid-wood edging strips to protect the edges of the MDF (even 1/8&amp;quot; material is worth applying), or put in a small chamfer or roundover on the MDF which will improve its wear characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Some pigmented stains have some dye in them as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; It's not as smooth and it's absorbent like a sponge (very like the edges of MDF).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Regardless of paint type. Waterbased wall paints (i.e. &amp;quot;latex&amp;quot; paint in the US, emulsion paint in the UK), oil paint, enamels, acrylic enamels, milk paint and chalk paint can all be varnished although in the last case it would be a complete waste of the original paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2017-01-19T12:01:47.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5354" CreationDate="2017-01-19T12:39:21.023" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You really don't need to over-think this. Let me emphasise that for you, you &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; don't need to. Even the most modest of tenons provides a very strong joint (assuming it is well cut and glued naturally) and as mentioned in previous Answers many traditional joints are over-engineered for strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To give two practical examples of why you don't need to over-analyse this, take the dowelled or the modern Domino version of the same joints you have here. In their respective ways they both sort of simulate a mortise-and-tenon joint, the dowels or Domino acting as tenons and their drilled holes as mortises. It's quite common for both to give &lt;em&gt;significantly&lt;/em&gt; less glue surface area than a M&amp;amp;T joint on the same members, but yet each give sufficiently strong joints in service that this isn't an issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they're good enough then it shows that most of the time even a slightly undersized tenon will do, so no need to follow a rule laid down in print to the letter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;contradictory information&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case it reflects that there isn't just one way you can go. A lot of woodworking is like this unfortunately so you have to get used to their being no One Good Way to do &lt;em&gt;anything&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For mortise-and-tenon jointer there isn't just one set of proportions that work best, any more than there's one &lt;em&gt;style&lt;/em&gt; of M&amp;amp;T that is always suitable*.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A tenon approximately 1/3 of the thickness of the material is a useful rule of thumb, and for a lot of work you can just apply this principle and you won't have any problems. But for thinner material it's fine (actually desirable) to make the tenon thicker than this proportionally. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And on very thick material because the tenon is going to be so beefy anyway it's already very strong. &lt;em&gt;And it wouldn't have been uncommon to size the mortise to the widest chisel available.&lt;/em&gt; The tenon would then be cut accordingly. Even if this meant the tenon ended up 1/4 or 1/5 the thickness of that piece it's often no big deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;BUT, it feels like the bottom/left joint should be vertically aligned, as the longer dimension of the tenon would provide more torque resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As drawn is the way this would usually be done traditionally in simpler joinery (many variations are possible, with some cabinetmakers choosing to use what seem like the most difficult and complicated versions possible .....just to torture their apprentices perhaps LOL). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The torque resistance thing may or may not be true, but anyway M&amp;amp;T joinery is already strong in this way. The main thing is how much torque does it actually need to resist? Once the table is fully assembled, very little more than likely. The joints throughout a piece mutually support each other by locking the structure into a given shape so individual joints can be weaker/less strong without significantly undermining the overall strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Recommended reading&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you haven't read it yet it's worth downloading a copy of &lt;strong&gt;Woodwork Joints&lt;/strong&gt; by William Fairham, considered one of the classics on the subject. It's available free on Project Gutenberg &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/21531&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*In almost every case more than one style would be equally suitable. Fox-wedged, wedged through-tenons, drawbored tenons and one or two others probably give joints that are close to equally strong, without any real strength advantage. It becomes more a case of traditional or personal preference which way you go. Always remembering that as far as furniture is concerned they're probably stronger than actually needed in every instance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-01-19T12:39:21.023" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5358" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5367" CreationDate="2017-01-19T13:22:51.147" Score="3" ViewCount="366" Body="&lt;p&gt;The instructions for my hot hide glue pearls say to keep the temperature at 60°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How forgiving is the holding temperature? If you overheat the glue, at what point will it break down and lose its &quot;glueyness&quot;?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How long can you cook it for? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How many times can you reheat it (and add more fresh glue)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3187" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2017-01-19T15:58:04.420" LastActivityDate="2017-01-20T17:24:44.630" Title="Hot Hide Glue Guidelines" Tags="|glue|traditional-techniques|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="800" CreationDate="2017-01-19T16:39:28.380" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Glue is not a joint. For ultimate longevity of a wooden structure go with physics not chemistry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should have been more concise in my response to this question. I was referring to structural joinery specifically...the joinery traditionally practiced by joiners in the construction of frameworks that have to carry loads with little deflection/deformation and no chance of failure. Covered bridges come to mind, but you would find similar joints in utilitarian furniture as well. Rather than depend on the adherence ability of glue (especially over time, and especially in variable environmental conditions) joiner's configured connections between the wooden members to take advantage of woods inherent resistance to compression.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3195" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2017-01-21T17:39:19.040" LastActivityDate="2017-01-21T17:39:19.040" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4948" CreationDate="2017-01-19T16:46:34.110" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For just a few cuts, a handsaw, properly sharpened, is way faster than fooling around with jigs or fences. A 3/4 inch board will cross cut at about one inch per stroke....Do the math.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3195" LastActivityDate="2017-01-19T16:46:34.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5362" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-19T18:47:18.753" Score="7" ViewCount="398" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to cut a 2&quot; x 1/2&quot; lap in the middle of a 2x6 (5-1/2&quot; on either end will NOT be cut...only the middle 3 feet).  Without a router or router table, what is the best way to accomplish this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like this:&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I4dye.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I4dye.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3197" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2017-01-30T17:23:36.493" LastActivityDate="2017-01-30T17:23:36.493" Title="How do I cut a lap in the middle of a 2x6 that does not extend to either end of the board without using a router?" Tags="|technique|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5362" CreationDate="2017-01-19T18:51:37.157" Score="6" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut the edges of your lap with a handsaw (fine-tune the edges later with a chisel, if you like).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut a few more lines into the wood down the length of the lap to prevent splits from running out of control in the next step.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a chisel and mallet to quickly knock out the wood in between the edges.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carefully pare down to the line using a sharp chisel and the force of your hand/body.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3187" LastActivityDate="2017-01-19T18:51:37.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5364" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5366" CreationDate="2017-01-19T20:15:16.143" Score="0" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had some questions about my new planer I got as a gift. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) &lt;strong&gt;Sharpening the blade&lt;/strong&gt; How many times could I sharpen the blade before it becomes inaccurate. I was thinking once, maybe twice. But I a sure that somebody has done it and has a good idea on that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) &lt;strong&gt;The belt&lt;/strong&gt; I already ran into a problem. The company does not seem to directly sell the belts for the planer. So what size is typical or what kind of belt do they use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) &lt;strong&gt;Greasing the gears&lt;/strong&gt; This was recommended in the book. But how often do I need to do this. And better yet, I do not know what kind of grease to use with this kind of stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) &lt;strong&gt;Grain direction&lt;/strong&gt; I know you want to go with the grain. But what if I where to say make a board that had to be feed cross grain. Any way to make it safer? I was thinking just make shallow cuts. Which I already do at 1/32 of a inch at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well to be honest I really do not have any other question as of now. But anything that you have to recommend to me with this new planer, since it is my first one. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="2073" LastEditDate="2017-01-26T12:25:55.893" LastActivityDate="2017-01-26T12:25:55.893" Title="My new 13&quot; planer" Tags="|sharpening|thickness-planer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ClosedDate="2017-01-22T05:51:44.340" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5362" CreationDate="2017-01-19T20:52:38.837" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want to remove 1/2&quot; of material from the face of the board, for 3 feet in the middle of the board? Sounds like that would be a good job for a bandsaw. Turn the board on edge and cut the two edges. Make a couple of relief cuts along your desired cut, and then cut out the bulk of the material. Flip the board around to get the other edge. Clean up with a chisel or plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a bandsaw, a jigsaw may work, although you'll need to be careful to keep the base perpendicular to your board. A jig (yes, a jig for your jigsaw :)) may be useful here, which may just be a second 2x6 on edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastActivityDate="2017-01-19T20:52:38.837" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5364" CreationDate="2017-01-19T21:50:36.240" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sharpening the Blade&lt;/strong&gt;  I have a similar table top planer (Delta).  The blades are reversible so I use them for a year or until I otherwise notice significant degradation in the surface smoothness.  Flipping the blades takes less than a half hour.  I have been reluctant to sharpen them and find $30 in new blades every couple years is reasonable in my case so I can't offer more insight into this. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Belt.&lt;/strong&gt;  There is no standard size for the belt, it will vary per manufacturer and model.  Your manual should include an exploded parts view that should identify the belt. (or go online).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Greasing the gears.&lt;/strong&gt;  I assume you are referring to the leveling gears.  There is no maintenance schedule I am aware of.  Inspect them now and then check annually to verify they are still working well and have sufficient lubricant.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Grain Direction.&lt;/strong&gt;  There is no real safety issue with grain direction.  Rather, if the board runs through backwards or sideways there is increased risk  that the cutting edge will raise grain that travels deeper into the board, causing &quot;tear-out&quot; in which chips of wood are lifted off of the surface leaving gouges.  If you run the board through in a cross grain direction the blade is more likely to pull out longer wood fibers causing similar surface imperfections.  Running the board with the grain is best, but if you can't, you can reduce the risk of tear-out by making very shallow passes removing very little material in each run.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2017-01-19T21:50:36.240" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5358" CreationDate="2017-01-20T17:24:44.630" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I contacted Lee Valley, where I bought my glue. This was their response:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Holding temperature should be maintained accurately when using hide glue. Overheating it can lead to a decrease in its overall holding strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, the glue can be held at temperature for a work day, then refrigerated overnight. You’ll have about 4 re-heating cycles before the glue starts to break down, at which point it should be discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3187" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2017-01-20T17:24:44.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5368" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-20T19:49:20.123" Score="2" ViewCount="875" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got a new Hitachi SB8V2 belt sander and am an aspiring woodworker wanting to do various small projects around my house. I don't have the space or budget to get a disc sanding table (or equivalent), but I have seen several articles/videos about making a mount/harness for a belt sander to turn it into one, which seems like a very appealing idea to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c3lCW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c3lCW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trouble is, all the videos I've found on the topic make one of the two following assumptions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your belt sander has a flat surface on its side.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your belt sander has holes to mount it to something else.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, this Hitachi sander has neither. Both sides are curved and neither side has screw holes that I can see that might allow me to mount it to something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to brainstorm an alternative mounting solution and have been unsuccessful so far, so I wanted to ask here to see if anyone has a similar sander (or equivalent) that they've built a mount for, and if so, how you did it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, here's a YouTube search results that show various methods for mounting other sanders: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=mount+belt+sander&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=mount+belt+sander&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've watched the top 15-ish results and nothing mentioned there looks like it would work with my sander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would love any and all ideas!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: Looking for creative suggestions for mounting this sander, not suggestions for returning the sander and buying another one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3199" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-02-03T16:25:05.663" LastActivityDate="2017-02-05T23:38:23.810" Title="Creating a mount for Hitachi SB8V2 belt sander?" Tags="|power-tools|sanding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5370" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5373" CreationDate="2017-01-22T05:52:35.070" Score="4" ViewCount="1451" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had a friend ask me if I could help him repair some office chairs by replacing the entire back piece with a wooden one as there are some cracks progressively getting worse down the back of the support which you can see in the photo. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PrbbJ.jpg&quot; height=&quot;500&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when brainstorming ideas on how to actually go about this there were only really 3 things I could come up with that could work but they all had their own issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Making some sort of jig to then use a router - Would still require a lot of sanding and the jig wouldn't work all too well&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Using either one of the rasp or plane blades for an angle grinder on a big blank - Would not really be easily replicable and also extremely easy to screw up the entire piece&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;CNC machine - CNCs are only recently really becoming super mainstream in woodworking so many people still do not have one&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;So after that it got me wondering how this could actually be done in a replicable way. Now I see that a CNC would be the easiest way to make this &quot;organic&quot; shaped piece and others like it but I can't be the only person without a CNC so was wondering what ways people make pieces such as without machines like CNCs &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2271" LastActivityDate="2017-01-22T21:08:42.673" Title="How to go about cutting more &quot;organic&quot; shapes out of wood without machines like a CNC" Tags="|router|carving|cnc|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5370" CreationDate="2017-01-22T06:31:35.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can create the outer shape by making a template for the back, cutting the workpiece to rough shape with the saw of your choice (probably bandsaw or jigsaw if using power tools), and using a router with a pattern bit or guide bushing. You can either make the template for the entire back, or slightly more than half of the back (since the left and right sides will be mirror images of one another). If you do the half-template, make sure you have some registration marks to help line it up when you flip it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want the face of the back that has padding attached to it to also be slightly concave, you have at least a couple options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could shape the concave/convex faces on your bandsaw if you first rip the back into strips small enough to resaw, then glue the strips back together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a bandsaw or don't want to mess with ripping and gluing, you can use the same technique that is commonly used to carve the seat of a chair. Drill holes at various locations to appropriate depths across the back, then use hand tools or power tools to slowly carve away material until you can no longer see the holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use hand tools, you could simply use a smaller size hand plane or specialty plane to scoop out the concave face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another power tool technique is to use an angle grinder with a power rasp or carving/planing attachment to gradually carve away a little at a time in smooth sweeping motions. A couple example manufacturers of these attachments are King Arthur Tools and Arbortech. You could also potentially use a very aggressive sander, but that will take a bit longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2017-01-22T19:55:47.450" LastActivityDate="2017-01-22T19:55:47.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5370" CreationDate="2017-01-22T06:40:00.020" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the back is curved, I would suggest laminating layers of bending plywood over a form to get that curve, then trim to the oval shape  with bandsaw/saber saw/handsaw, a trifle oversize, then file/rasp/sand to final shape and size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2017-01-22T06:40:00.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5370" CreationDate="2017-01-22T11:42:47.300" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lamination FTW&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If the chair were a different type I'd have suggested solid wood (note: grain must go horizontally), but not for one like this. Laminating up a curved plywood back is &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; way to go here IMO as already suggested in @keshlam's Answer. Only one potential problem with this plan, and that is getting the thick veneers to do the lamination or cutting them yourself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW you know these have to be glued up on a curved form, don't underestimate the amount of time making that will take. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if you don't also make a reverse-curved one as well (female or male, depending on whether you decide to go curve-up or curve-down on the main form) you'll need a lot of clamps to make each back, and it would probably be worth using clamping cauls as well. Figure at least eight strong clamps tied up each time while the glue dries so factor that into your estimates of how long the whole process will take.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you did want to make it from solid wood&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Even though I'm a handtool guy primarily because of the relatively specialised nature of the shaping of one side of each back* this has power tools written all over it. And the main one to get this type of thing done repeatably and accurately is the router, with an appropriate jig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Making some sort of jig to then use a router - Would still require a lot of sanding &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're underestimating the surface you can get with a router. Just generally if your bit is sharp, you use good technique (appropriate feed rate, best routing direction relative to the grain) and you take a very shallow final pass you can get nearly finish-ready surfaces straight from the router. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus anyway, if the surface left by the shaping operation on this project were a little rough you should always be looking at planing or scraping before sanding. Scraping is like sanding on steroids. It's faster, produces a better surface and it doesn't use up a consumable product. &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1134/what-are-the-differences-between-sanding-and-scraping/1159#1159&quot;&gt;What are the differences between sanding and scraping?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;and the jig wouldn't work all too well&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If made well and used right jigs for this type of shaping can work superbly. Here are a few images showing the usual types made:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vf0W2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vf0W2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Ideally done with a compass plane, which are rare and can be expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2017-01-22T11:42:47.300" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5375" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-23T21:00:21.297" Score="3" ViewCount="881" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make some thin (1/4-3/8&quot;) panels out of hardwood rather than plywood. My panels will be up to 8&quot; wide, so I may need to glue up two or three boards to get the width I need. I'm starting off with 3/4&quot; thick material, so I'll need to resaw the boards in half at some point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I glue up the panel first and then resaw it to the desired thickness, or resaw the individual boards first and then glue the thin boards together? Not sure exactly what wood I'll be using, but it will likely be maple, walnut, or cherry, if that affects the answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2019-01-29T23:41:38.467" LastActivityDate="2019-01-31T01:23:31.490" Title="Should I resaw before or after gluing up thin panels?" Tags="|glue|cutting|band-saw|resawing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5375" CreationDate="2017-01-23T23:07:12.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend gluing them up first.  Even with good gluing platforms to hold the boards flat during glue up and a good clamping setup, there will always be a bit of unevenness. The amount of offset will be the same regardless of the thickness.  If you resaw first you will have the same unevenness twice, doubling the waste that must be planed off for truly flat panels. In addition, if resawing in a bandsaw, the result is never perfect and more material will end up on one side than the other.  When you take this into account along with the unevenness, planing, and sanding using 3/4&quot; stock will barely be thick enough for 1/4&quot; panels.  If you want it any thicker, start with 4/4 stock. More margin for error means less do-overs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2017-01-23T23:07:12.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5375" CreationDate="2017-01-24T03:07:01.707" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would resaw first. An 8&quot; resaw is going to take lots of skill and luck to achieve.  If the 8&quot; board is only slightly out of plumb (an issue of skill) at any point during the cut, you will very likely end up with a place where the thickness goes below 1/4&quot;, necessitating a do-over.  If you make a resaw on a 4&quot; board, the effect of a bit of jiggle out of vertical would only be half of what would happen in the 8' cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Saw, thickness plane, then glue.  Finally, sand or once again thickness plane to final dimension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2017-01-24T03:07:01.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5378" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-24T14:03:44.590" Score="2" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a simple lampshade design, on the picture is made out of paper:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TBZVtm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TBZVtm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, it's a basic truncated cone from a single sheet of paper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to make the same lampshade from veneer sheet. I do understand that veneer wouldn't probably allow to bend as much as my needed curvature radius of 2 cm. So I'll probably replace the figure with a truncated 3-sided pyramid, with sides interlocked like puzzles. I've got the idea from &lt;a href=&quot;http://inhabitat.com/at-labos-wood-veneer-lamps-are-puzzles-you-put-together-yourself/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://inhabitat.com/at-labos-wood-veneer-lamps-are-puzzles-you-put-together-yourself/&lt;/a&gt;. I plan to laser CNC cut the pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: veneer sheets on sale here in Ukraine look like this:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6czu9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6czu9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I make them nice straight and stable like this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I03kD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I03kD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Second question: Typical thickness of veneer on sale is 0.6 mm. Can I expect much light to go through? What's the most transparent wood from commonly available oak/beech/maple/ash? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1811" LastEditorUserId="1811" LastEditDate="2017-01-24T14:37:14.630" LastActivityDate="2017-01-24T20:51:48.137" Title="Veneer sheet stability and properties" Tags="|veneer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5379" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5380" CreationDate="2017-01-24T15:12:49.563" Score="4" ViewCount="2771" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WUECb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WUECb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;whoops&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions on fixing this? I cut the mortise about 1/16&quot; too large in both dimensions. :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3096" LastActivityDate="2017-01-24T16:59:36.150" Title="Fixing an oversized mortise" Tags="|joinery|mortise-and-tenon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5379" CreationDate="2017-01-24T16:59:36.150" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Enlarge the tenon&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Oh I wish I could leave it at just that one sentence ^_^ But it's not obvious how you'd do that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually the error in an undersized tenon is quite small and you'd glue slips of veneer to each side that needs it (often it's the cheeks only that need attention). Here you'll need to use thin slips of wood that you cut yourself. When doing this ideally you're supposed to match the grain orientation of the tenon closely but it's not that vital at this scale unless you were using a completely different wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glue the packing pieces to the tenon firmly and wait for the glue to harden, then check fit and adjust if necessary, then glue the M&amp;amp;T as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Loose fit? No problem, glue with thickened epoxy&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This sounds sketchy but actually it's a perfectly reasonable way to go. Epoxy is one of the few adhesives that can bridge gaps while still producing a strong joint and if you thicken the epoxy with a fine powder (wood dust is usually used but there are &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3807/large-hole-filler-products-what-is-available/3809#3809&quot;&gt;other options&lt;/a&gt;) you can get it to a consistency where it stays where you apply it and doesn't slump from the pull of gravity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The usual aim point given for the consistency you'll need here is similar to peanut butter&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;..... and if you use wood dust as the filler the mixture often looks disturbingly close to peanut butter!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Next time&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For next time the obvious reminder is to mark out more carefully but you may have had the problem where your marking out was on the money but the walls of the tenon moved back unintentionally as you cut due to how you're chiselling, which is a common enough error when starting out&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the best thing is to try to avoid this as you work, by working more carefully and stopping to check your dimensions every now and then, but there's a good workaround and that is &lt;em&gt;cut your mortises first and then size the tenon to match&lt;/em&gt;. This way you'll never end up with an undersized tenon again. And usually it's much easier to cut a tenon to match a mortise than to cut a mortise to match a tenon anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.epoxycraft.com/peanut-butter-ketchup-syrup-mayonnaise-got-epoxy-resin/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;What has peanut butter got to do with epoxy resin?&lt;/a&gt; on Epoxycraft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Normally when a mortise is sized to the width of a chisel you only really need to worry about the two ends, not all four sides as here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2017-01-24T16:59:36.150" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5378" CreationDate="2017-01-24T17:09:07.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I do understand that veneer wouldn't probably allow to bend as much as my needed curvature radius of 2 cm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is doable if you don't try to do it with the veneer dry (it's &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; more flexible and less prone to cracking when dampened, or dampened and heated).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I don't think the wood can possibly be robust enough by itself. But, just like with paper, it could be stiffened by being impregnated with resin or glue. That may give you a stiff shape but I think it will be stronger and more stable if you bond the veneer to a stiffened cloth backing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Typical thickness of veneer on sale is 0.6 mm. Can I expect much light to go through?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well there's one good way to find out...... ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seriously the best way to get the answer you seek here is to get a scrap sample and check. How much light will go through a thin piece of wood very much depends on the species and the colour of the individual piece, not just on the thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-01-24T17:09:07.417" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5382" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5384" CreationDate="2017-01-24T19:51:46.790" Score="2" ViewCount="162" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am carving a box with a pin-hinge lid out of a spalted japanese maple branch. The branch had an egg shaped cross section, so there is a ridge running down one side of the box. I am considering carving a hole in the ridge in order make a handle, but I'm concerned that it might not hold up to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any structural guidelines for carving this kind of a wooden handle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FO1D0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FO1D0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Side profile. There&amp;#39;s at least 3 inches of wood from ridge to the cavity. The piece sticking up at the top will be the stop for the pin-hinge lid.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OZEA5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OZEA5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Top view. You can see the minor spalting. The walls aren&amp;#39;t straight - it narrows as you go down.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3137" LastEditorUserId="3137" LastEditDate="2017-01-24T23:09:00.633" LastActivityDate="2017-01-24T23:09:00.633" Title="Carving a wooden handle - any rules of thumb?" Tags="|strength|carving|handle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5378" CreationDate="2017-01-24T20:51:48.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your first picture looks more like a stack of lumber than sheets of veneer. If the veneer has actually warped that much due to sitting outside absorbing moisture, then moisture is what it will take to get them smoothed into the shape you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest making a form to wrap the veneer around, then steam or even soak the wood until it's soft enough to bend without breaking. Wrap the softened wood around the form, then attach the edges and set it aside to dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're planning on gluing an overlap, you could use a Gorilla™ type glue that will activate with the moisture in the wood and stick, otherwise, you'll probably need to clamp the veneer in place on the form and wait until it's dry to do the actual gluing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're planning on &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; small &lt;s&gt;nails&lt;/s&gt; brads to hold it together, you might be able to inlay a piece of metal into your form as a nailing backer to bend your brads over as they go through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the veneer has dried, slip it out of the form, et voila! Lamp shade!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To give you something to mount the bulb-base and hanger to, I'd suggest cutting a disk of wood that you would slip in from the bottom end and affix (glue or brads, to match) to the top. To give the bottom some strength and shape holding, you could either use a disk as at the top, or cut a hole in the disk to allow some additional light to come out the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No matter how you do it, this sounds like a neat project, and I hope you'll come back to update us with your progress &amp;amp; final result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2017-01-24T20:51:48.137" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5382" CreationDate="2017-01-24T22:26:34.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I'm visualising this correctly you're fine, on paper at least, as you'll have long grain running down through the thin strip that remains outside of the hole. But branch wood isn't that predictable and also you say the wood is spalted, which adds some additional uncertainty. I'm afraid this is one of those &lt;em&gt;try it and see&lt;/em&gt; propositions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-01-24T22:26:34.977" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5385" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5391" CreationDate="2017-01-24T22:49:53.750" Score="1" ViewCount="324" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am attempting to stain a staircase that had carpet running down the middle of it. After getting the carpet pulled up, the staple holes filled in, and the stairs sanded, there are some splotches showing up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am very NEWB when it comes to woodworking, etc, so this is very perplexing to me. I am hoping someone here can help me with this and tell me what's going on and how to fix it. This is the first coat of stain, will it resolve after a few more coats? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qwnew.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qwnew.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3213" LastActivityDate="2017-01-25T11:06:50.530" Title="Splotches Showing Up when Staining Staircase" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5386" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-24T22:50:34.853" Score="5" ViewCount="5774" Body="&lt;p&gt;In another &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5375/should-i-resaw-before-or-after-gluing-up-thin-panels&quot;&gt;question of mine&lt;/a&gt;, Graphus commented that there are some very well established techniques for gluing up thin panels, especially from luthiers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are those techniques, and how can I achieve a good glue-up with thin (1/4-3/8&quot;) panels? The panel would be 8&quot; wide at the most, so likely 2-3 boards, no more than 8-10&quot; long. Wood species is unknown at this point, but likely maple, walnut, or cherry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2017-01-25T19:01:37.153" Title="Techniques for gluing thin panels?" Tags="|technique|glue|panel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5387" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-24T22:55:50.030" Score="3" ViewCount="323" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to learn dovetails.  My first/second/third show slow improvement but I still have a lot of progress left.  The most difficult part for me is starting the cut since the saw tends to want to bind or skip when first biting into the wood. Using the chisel + marking knife to cut a small groove helps.  Since it is brand new I am fairly sure it is my technique and not the saw being dull.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got the Veritas Dovetail Saw (14 TPI).  I read this was a good saw for the price point, but that the better quality saws would be heavier to help start the cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if I can simply add some weight to the spine of my Veritas dovetail saw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3135" LastEditorUserId="3135" LastEditDate="2017-01-24T23:06:17.047" LastActivityDate="2017-01-28T00:25:33.933" Title="Adding weight to Veritas dovetail saw" Tags="|technique|joinery|hand-tools|hand-saw|dovetail|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5387" CreationDate="2017-01-25T02:32:55.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the same saw and am quite satisfied with its performance. I might be wrong, but I don't think adding weight will help. While a chiseled line helps, I do not depend upon it to control the blade. I make the first few draws with only the weight of the saw to begin the track for the blade, cutting into  an edge rather than across a face of the board. My other hand's thumb serves as a fence to help guide the blade in a straight line.  As the blade begins cutting into the edge I set my blade to the lines on the top and face continuing to cut into the edge.  Only as the blade begins to be guided by the cut in the board do I begin strokes with any force. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of good videos on youtube that can demonstrate best practices.  One recommendation is to check out Paul Sellers vidoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2017-01-25T02:32:55.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4205" CreationDate="2017-01-25T07:32:30.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am renovating an old wooden framed house and it has mortice and tenon joints in all the framing studs to top and bottom plates as well as window and door openeings, each joint is completed with one nail through the tenon&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dm9PM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dm9PM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3214" LastActivityDate="2017-01-25T07:32:30.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5386" CreationDate="2017-01-25T10:52:10.490" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's the basic setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Is1kb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Is1kb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Thin panel glue-up jig&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://lhefner.blogspot.ie/2011/07/soundboard.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Guitar 101 blog&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The boards being joined are a tightish fit even with that thin slat underneath the central joint, slide that out and press the two boards down flat and they are squeezed together &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; tightly. The two boards are held flat and prevented from tenting back up by placing a heavy weight on top or by using clamp pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The jig is built around a flat board (usually MDF or ply these days) with at least one batten firmly screwed/glued into position as a permanent stop, the second batten that ensures the very tight fit of the panel being made must be removable* so is usually screwed in place, but C-clamps can be used to hold it as they are so strong. But make sure you crank them down hard enough that there's no chance of the batten shifting position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some alternative methods:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m0yk2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Thin-board clamping jig&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/2011/05/05/use-wedges-to-edge-glue-thin-boards&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Use wedges to edge glue thin boards&lt;/a&gt; on Fine Woodworking.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://paulsellers.com/2014/11/laminating-thin-stock-clamps-from-scraps-that-work/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Laminating Thin Stock – Clamps From Scraps That work&lt;/a&gt; from Paul Sellers.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This one recommends using lap joints, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/edge-glue-thin-panels-using-lap-joints/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Edge Glue Thin Panels Using Lap Joints&lt;/a&gt; on Woodworker's Journal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Before you glue&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;To ensure good results you need to ensure your edges are straight and square (or complementary angles, e.g. 88° is fine on one edge if it meets 92° on the mating edge) and for thinner boards probably the best way to achieve that is to 'shoot' the edges, by planing them on a shooting board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't own a hand plane you can joint boards using a router (hand-held or mounted in a table) and get results just as good but ensure you don't scorch the edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; for a thin joint like this it's vital to work the edges and glue the panel together as soon as possible after. Under 15 minutes is good. Waiting even a few hours can weaken the glue joint noticeably, and if the time gap stretches to overnight or longer you can't expect a strong enough glue joint to form on thin boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*With any jig like this the weight or clamping in the centre should not be removed first. One of the battens needs to be removed to relieve pressure on the new panel so it can be removed safely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-01-25T10:52:10.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5385" CreationDate="2017-01-25T11:06:50.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's what's often referred to as 'hold out' and is commonly caused by glue having soaked into the wood surface. In this case it looks like it could easily have been carpet adhesive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hate to be the bearer of bad news but the usual fix is to go back to bare wood (yes the entire surface, sorry) and stain again after you've checked that you've removed enough wood that you got below the adhesive contamination. You must check as it can take a surprisingly long time to scrape or sand deep enough even though it's only a fraction of a millimetre that is being removed*. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way to test for hold out is to dampen the area with mineral spirits, if you haven't gone deep enough the areas where there is remaining glue will show up paler. You continue to work the surface until this test doesn't reveal pale patches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Most things don't soak into wood any deeper than this, including wood stains. So when the product says &quot;penetrates deeply&quot; on the can take that with a pinch of salt, it might mean 0.2mm versus 0.1mm!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-01-25T11:06:50.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5386" CreationDate="2017-01-25T19:01:37.153" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some additions to Graphus' answer from a luthier of 40 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not much gluing surface here, I wipe the edges with an acetone damped paper towel to remove residual oils, especially recommended on oily woods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you true the edges, do them together. Clamp the two pieces face-to-face with the finish faces both inward or both outward. Clamp your very sharp plane (jack or jointer length preferred) sideways on your bench. Place a piece of smooth ply or MDF in front of the plane to elevate the stock into the cutting area. Slide the clamped panels along the plane keeping the bottom flat and in contact with the MDF. This will insure that any angles on the edges will be supplimentary to which Graphus refers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember to place strips of waxed paper both under and over the joint. You may wipe the top side of excess glue ooze if you're very careful not to let up on the panels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weights will work but I clamp the joint, with clamps at the outboard ends of the joint, using a strip of wood with a slight camber to it such that, when clamped, will exert pressure along the length of the joint. This may be overkill it you're doing a one-off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2762" LastActivityDate="2017-01-25T19:01:37.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3735" CreationDate="2017-01-25T21:53:34.253" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, it took me a while to get around to it, but I finally attempted a repair to these chair seats.  First I gently pried open each crack in the seat and injected Tightbond-II glue using a hypodermic type glue needle (20mm) which worked fine for getting lots of glue into the tight gaps. Standard clamping closed all the cracks.  In some cases some gouges remained where some splinters had broken off (as wide as 1/8&quot; wide and deep).  I filled these with a mix of fine sawdust mixed with the oil varnish finish for the chairs.  After drying for a day I sanded the surfaces smooth and applied a new coat of varnish over the entire seat.  Finally, to provide additional support I added 3/4&quot; x 1 1/2&quot; stiffeners (see picture) screwed into the seat from the bottom.  The screw holes are over-sized so that some seat expansion will be accommodated. The reinforcement strips are secured to the seat near the connection points to the legs to transfer the loads from the strips to the legs with minimum stress on the seat itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/87zMD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/87zMD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chair Repair&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2017-01-25T21:53:34.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5395" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-26T21:20:51.507" Score="3" ViewCount="358" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to make a table with a removable panel, which would require a joint something akin to a dovetail joint. My question is, what is this called, and can I buy wood precut with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've attached a hilariously bad drawing of what I need.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PMTjw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PMTjw.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3223" LastActivityDate="2021-04-13T18:38:02.473" Title="What is the name of this joint?" Tags="|joinery|wood|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5395" CreationDate="2017-01-26T21:26:42.113" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is called a &quot;sliding dovetail&quot;.  It is often used as a more secure alternative to a dado.  A typical use would be in a middle shelf in a bookcase to prevent the case sides from bowing outward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think there is any way to buy something like this pre-cut.  The closest I can think of is &quot;slatwall&quot; which is paneling with t-grooves to hang accessories in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2017-01-26T21:32:53.713" LastActivityDate="2017-01-26T21:32:53.713" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5395" CreationDate="2017-01-26T21:27:16.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is called a sliding dovetail joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make it with a router.  Or a saw + chisels.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it is unlikely that a store will pre-stock the dimensions you need but you could try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3135" LastActivityDate="2017-01-26T21:27:16.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5398" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-26T23:52:38.857" Score="4" ViewCount="1083" Body="&lt;p&gt;When time comes around I will need to sharpen the planer blade. I was wanting to know how many times I could sharpen these blades before it becomes 'accurate'. Meaning, as I sharpen the blade X times it will get shorter so when I turn the knob it might cut 1/32 less than I want. But I will be doing this by hand so I think that I could do this many times. Edit: This is a 13&quot; thickness planer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="2073" LastEditDate="2017-01-28T00:26:42.057" LastActivityDate="2018-04-27T10:37:53.323" Title="How many times can I sharpen a planer blade?" Tags="|sharpening|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5399" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-26T23:57:30.390" Score="5" ViewCount="9799" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that your not supposed to cut cross grain when it comes to planing the wood. But when I am in such a spot what is a good way to do this? The easiest would be to take shallow cuts, as told in a previous question. But what are thing that can be done to be on the safe side. Just to prevent the chip out and all would be nice. Edit: This is done with a 13&quot; thickness planer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="2073" LastEditDate="2017-01-28T00:23:51.807" LastActivityDate="2017-01-28T00:23:51.807" Title="what is a safe way to plane a cross-grain board?" Tags="|thickness-planer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5398" CreationDate="2017-01-27T00:24:39.943" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, planer blades are adjustable, such that they are repositioned to the original cutting position (protrusion) after sharpening. So the question becomes &quot;How many times can I sharpen my planer blades before I can no longer reposition them properly (or safely)?&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer to this depends on at least two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much material you remove when you sharpen the blades.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much &quot;extra&quot; material the blades have on them to begin with.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are merely restoring sharpness to an otherwise good blade, you may be able to remove only say 0.015&quot; (fifteen thousandths). If you need to grind out nicks in the blade, you may need to remove much more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the newer blades I've seen have very little extra &quot;meat&quot; on them and can perhaps only realistically be sharpened once or twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you'll have to consider your particular situation and see what you think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the length of the planer blade has no connection to the maximum depth of cut. The planer blade remains stationary in the rotating head regardless of the depth adjustment. Only the infeed positioning is changed by the depth adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastEditorUserId="2779" LastEditDate="2017-01-27T07:14:13.503" LastActivityDate="2017-01-27T07:14:13.503" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5395" CreationDate="2017-01-27T09:36:55.877" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In modern US parlance that is a sliding dovetail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In British parlance it's a dovetail housing joint. Older American books may refer to it that way too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More specifically your drawing shows a &lt;em&gt;through sliding dovetail&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;through dovetail housing&lt;/em&gt; since the groove isn't 'stopped', or shorter than the piece that slides into it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; the housing portion, the groove (dado in American), is usually cut into the sides of a bookcase or other casework, and along the edge of the shelf that it mates with. So it's important to note that the grain commonly runs perpendicular to the joint, not parallel to it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OdFGY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OdFGY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dovetail housing joints, through and stopped&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;strong&gt;Good Wood Joints&lt;/strong&gt; by Albert Jackson &amp;amp; David Day.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both stopped and through versions of the joint can have a dovetail on one or both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As tricky as these joints are to cut manually for extra Woodworking Merit Points they can even be tapered O_o&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;can I buy wood precut with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't believe so unless it's part of a complete piece of kit furniture with these joints milled out ready for assembly by the buyer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to form this joint it is quite straightforward and fast to do with a router, which in theory can cut the dovetailed groove in a single operation (in practice, especially on harder woods, the centre is often milled out first using a straight cutting bit to relieve stress on the dovetail bit which must cut to full depth because of its shape).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If no power router is available it's usual to carefully saw and chisel the joint, after some very careful marking out of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-01-27T09:36:55.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5399" CreationDate="2017-01-27T12:29:48.530" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For parts too wide for your planer, there are a couple different options. If you have a router, you can make a router sled, and use the router to surface the wood. I believe you will find this process spelled out in other posts on here if you do a quick search.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how much material you need to take off, you could run it through a drum sander, or do the hand tool route and you a hand plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, you do not want to send parts through a planer cross grain. It is unsafe, bad for the tool, and will not produce a satisfying product in most cases.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qtChk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qtChk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastActivityDate="2017-01-27T12:29:48.530" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5403" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5404" CreationDate="2017-01-27T15:31:52.457" Score="2" ViewCount="25146" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a beginner in woodworking and I'd like to create doll furniture (1:6 scale). I would prefer however not to use any sawing equipment because of the small size, and I do not have the option to use any kind of laser cutter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What wood type (and how thick) could I use for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't mind having to glue multiple layers together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3226" LastActivityDate="2017-01-29T06:47:34.883" Title="What kind of wood is thin enough to cut with a knife, but strong enough for doll furniture?" Tags="|furniture|wood-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5403" CreationDate="2017-01-27T16:02:21.477" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can usually buy various sizes of balsa and basswood from the craft store (Hobby Lobby, Michaels, etc.). Balsa will be softer and easier to cut, while basswood will be a little harder, and also stronger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We used to make models in architecture school using these. You can cut them with x-acto knives, which you can get from the craft store, as well. They usually come in small or large sizes, with replaceable blades. For thicker basswood,you may want a little model-making saw, which you can get there as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can usually find a kit with multiple types of handles and tips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00004Z2UB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Xacto X5282 Basic Knife Set&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2017-01-29T06:47:34.883" LastActivityDate="2017-01-29T06:47:34.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5403" CreationDate="2017-01-27T16:10:41.777" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wood&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;One of the common woods used for carving and for dollhouse and other scale-model applications is called basswood, which is commonly available from hobby and model shops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use many other woods if they are close-grained enough, including proper furniture woods like maple, but they are much harder and more difficult to cut and the may be difficult to acquire in small pieces or useful profiles/sections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tools&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Any wood can actually be shaped by knife, this is what &lt;em&gt;whittling&lt;/em&gt; is all about*, but, you won't easily cut wood down to size and shape it fully using a knife alone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Saws are vitally important for some aspects of woodworking, regardless of the scale of the work, and while you can split wood along the grain fairly easily cross-cutting is one thing where there is nearly no other option but to use a saw. Using just a knife you can't cut wood across the grain in a reasonable amount of time, especially where accuracy and neatness in the finished item are important. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you do want a saw (or saws) for at least some of the work. In the case of dollhouse furniture you won't generally use full-sized hand saws, instead for model work there is a lot of use made of smaller saws and very fine saws such as razor saws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also say that files of various types should be high on your to-get list, above sandpaper and other sanding equipment in fact (although you will need some of that too). I'd get at least one set of needle files, which should have a fairly standard selection including a triangular file, a couple of flats of various shapes, possibly a square, a half-round and a round or rat-tail file, all of which will prove very useful for some of the shaping you'll need to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See some previous Q&amp;amp;As for more info that might be of help:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1532/comparison-of-western-saws-and-japanese-saws&quot;&gt;Comparison of Western saws and Japanese Saws&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3820/how-do-i-sharpen-curved-tools-like-gouges/3822#3822&quot;&gt;How do I sharpen curved tools like gouges?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3374/how-can-i-tell-if-wood-turning-lathe-chisels-are-sharp/3377#3377&quot;&gt;How can I tell if wood turning (lathe) chisels are sharp?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Note that whatever type of knife you use it should be kept as sharp as possible, sharp enough to shave arm hair is the minimum standard to aim for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2017-01-27T16:10:41.777" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3172" CreationDate="2017-01-27T19:32:08.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having now dried the above described wood for a year I wanted to share my results from the steps that I took to avoid spalting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wood included maple, poplar, and other species of 1&quot; - 6&quot; diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the following steps avoid spalting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I cut the wood green and immediately brought it inside to dry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The wood was stacked in criss-crossed layers to aid in air exchange and moderate stagnation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The basement was heated in the cold months by a coal furnace (used to heat the house above, but gave off lots of radiant heat for the basement). I would estimate the typical temperature at around 75°F.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The basement was naturally dry and a dehumidifier was also used to further maintain the low humidity. I would estimate the typical RH at 35%.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have now cut into many of the pieces up to 5&quot; in size and have observed little or no spalting. Some of the bark had separated in a few places on some pieces. However, with the exception of the expected end-checking, no other negative effects of the drying process were observed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1695" LastEditorUserId="1695" LastEditDate="2017-01-28T18:13:35.197" LastActivityDate="2017-01-28T18:13:35.197" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5387" CreationDate="2017-01-28T00:25:33.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say just the opposite.  The saw should be lighter to start a cut more easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are starting a cut you should be supporting the weight of the saw with your hand so that it is barely resting on the work-piece.  Only once you have an established kerf so the saw won't skip should you rest the weight of the saw on the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was a good video on the Renaissance Woodworker blog a while ago about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2017-01-28T00:25:33.933" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5408" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-29T14:56:39.940" Score="4" ViewCount="1029" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a way to join 3 pieces of wood that would intersect each other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the project I am working on : &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZqByE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZqByE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7hCb6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7hCb6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C42ti.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C42ti.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0DyCg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0DyCg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ONCcA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ONCcA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example of joint : &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o1Bl7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o1Bl7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Just like that&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the japanese cidori joint system. Though, I don't like the system of cidori with the protruding members.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a very hard time finding a suitable joint on the internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is : &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Do you know of a simple joint that can achieve this (3 branch intersection), if so can you provide name and or plans?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) I found images of a fairly complicated joint that could do it. The images are in too poor quality for me to analyze how it is made. Can anyone point what is the name of that joint, and if possible how to make it? (plans)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gqrpS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gqrpS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zrPTe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zrPTe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZrYQb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZrYQb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uheXo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uheXo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3233" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2017-01-30T17:22:18.370" LastActivityDate="2017-01-31T03:33:44.050" Title="What is the name of the joint used in these lattice designs?" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5408" CreationDate="2017-01-29T16:39:26.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For #2, I can't name the joint, but might be able to unpack it enough for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's call the tall upright in the first picture the X axis. It has two mortises.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Y is like a pinned scarf joint. I suspect that it has one long tenon (that mates with a mortise on top of the other half) and one stub tenon that simply nests into X and provides stability (and resistance to rotation). If I was building this, I'd try to make the two halves symmetrical, but they clearly didn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Z looks like a relatively simple mortise/tenon that's been pinned for stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you built this with fairly large stock, Z is quite weak. The rest have had so much material removed that they aren't great, either. (TL/DR: not for heavy use in earthquake country.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastEditorUserId="503" LastEditDate="2017-01-29T19:09:00.643" LastActivityDate="2017-01-29T19:09:00.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5410" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5411" CreationDate="2017-01-29T18:40:06.347" Score="3" ViewCount="2243" Body="&lt;p&gt;I needed a workbench for working on stained glass (so no heavy pushing like with hand planing). I took a spare sheet of 3/4&quot; particleboard with melamine finish on the faces and cut it to 6x3', rounded the corners with a jigsaw and attached 4 IKEA screw on legs that I had from an old table. The legs are very strong but the table seems to be a bit too long for the material and if I press in the middle it bends considerably and springs back to place with a wobble when Iet go. This wouldn't be a problem except that for stained glass I need to do very precise movements and I can't have the thing wobbling on me every time I make a cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought about installing edging with some scrap pine that I have except that I rounded over the edges and it's going to look ridiculous. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also thought about adding another set of IKEA legs in the middle but they don't make them anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last thing I thought about is screwing two strips of pine running parallel to each other, fastened to the underside of the table so that you wouldn't see them but I'm not sure if that would work (though it's the same effect as siding, right?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2838" LastActivityDate="2017-02-02T21:39:00.520" Title="How to make large table less springy in the middle" Tags="|furniture|design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5410" CreationDate="2017-01-29T19:43:13.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Think of a classic dining table, which has a framework underneath (commonly called the apron) that supports the table top. I think this is what you should probably build on to the workbench. Failing that join each pair of legs, front and back, with long boards (used edge-up) that run under the long dimension of the table. If using construction wood 3x1s might be enough but use 4x1s or 3x2s if you want to err on the side of caution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the material you used for the top, particleboard (UK: chipboard) is quite a good choice for worktops if used appropriately. Unfortunately long unsupported spans is not one of the things it does well, in fact in thinner sections it's notorious for bowing ....even under its own weight! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-01-29T19:43:13.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5412" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5413" CreationDate="2017-01-29T20:09:47.877" Score="3" ViewCount="9399" Body="&lt;p&gt;What joint should I use for this 45-degree piece? It provides lateral support to a table leg, and there are two (one on each side of the upright piece in the picture). The bottom is a 3-way mortise and tenon. I'm reasonable comfortable making those now, but cutting the tenons on the 45 could be a bit challenging, especially since I'd have to do 16 of them for the whole project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eraF1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eraF1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3096" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2017-01-29T21:55:15.307" LastActivityDate="2017-01-30T16:03:27.120" Title="What joint should I use for this 45 degree angled brace?" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5412" CreationDate="2017-01-29T20:20:55.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can just use butt joints here. Since this is part of an overall structure the joints will be strong enough in service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can reinforce them if you prefer*, but it shouldn't be needed if the pieces mate well, enough glue is applied and you clamp well during your glue-up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*With nails or screws or dowels or biscuits or splines or Dominos or floating tenons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-01-29T20:20:55.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5408" CreationDate="2017-01-29T22:32:18.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The standard three-way corner joint is the Kane Tsugi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The five-way joint is the shachisen-tsugi-shikuchi-no-shihousashi. It is very complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A much simpler option is the sampo-gumi-shikuchi, but the disadvantage is that beams do not meet all at the same point, but one is offset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2017-01-29T22:32:18.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5412" CreationDate="2017-01-30T16:03:27.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agree with @Graphus that a butt joint with something mechanical would be appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you wanted to do something a tiny bit more substantial, this one's easy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JvKYI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JvKYI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's clearly too early in the morning for me, but I can't come up with the proper name for that joint...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2017-01-30T16:03:27.120" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5408" CreationDate="2017-01-31T03:33:44.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use long pieces that extend for the whole length/width of each side. In that case, on the sides, you only ever have two pieces intersecting (although it looks like three), and you can just use lap joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the corners, use a lap joint for two of the pieces, then pierce them both with a mortise that accepts a tenon you cut into the third piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm certain there are much more complex approaches, but this is simple, clean, and will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2sRZS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2sRZS.png&quot; alt=&quot;Joint&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3187" LastActivityDate="2017-01-31T03:33:44.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5419" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-31T16:57:01.790" Score="6" ViewCount="9596" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a finish issue and need some advice please.&#xA;I am a novice and just refinished a kitchen table with Watco Danish Oil.&#xA;My process was as follows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanded the Oak table down to bare wood. (It was a poly finish previously). Applied Watco Danish Oil liberally and wet sanded using 320 grit wet/dry paper. I did not wet sand for very long, just 5-7 minutes. I wiped off the slurry and let it dry overnight. (I think it is important to note this work is being done in my garage and the temperature has been around 45-60 degrees Fahrenheit.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next day I dry sanded with 320 to smooth it out. Then I wet sanded again with Watco danish oil same as day before and I let it dry overnight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third day, I dry sanded again and then just applied Watco danish oil 3rd coat directly without wet sanding. I let it sit 15 minutes and then wiped off with lint free tshirt. I let this dry 24 hours and then buffed it with 0000 steel wool. Wiped it off again with lint free cloth and then put it in my kitchen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, my problem is i am seeing oil still seep out of the wood grain in tiny dots that are surfacing hours after I wiped it down. The kids ate breakfast on it this morning and placed hot waffles directly on the table top and it left a cloudy mark where the waffles were (looks like it knocked the sheen down and turned it to a matte finish in those areas).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did so much reading on the proper techniques for the look I wanted and thought I did this all correctly but apparently It is not completely done. I just want / need some help. I dont have pics but can post pics later if i need to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,  -Dale&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2017-02-01T11:16:05.650" Title="Oak table danish oil finish problems?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5419" CreationDate="2017-01-31T19:13:14.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the same issue with the drops exuding out of pores using a Minwax polywipe product. After all the recommended steps, I return to the project maybe 6 hours later and wipe the surface with a clean cotton cloth under moderate pressure. I may do this several times over a couple of days before placing the items in use. So, not quite as advertised but ultimately not a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully others will weigh in on this but I think the cloudy areas indicate a tiny bit of water under the finish which adheres as a very thin coat like fogged glass on the underside of the finish. This happens with other finishes as well including nitrocellulose lacquer. It's also possible that this is due to a separation of the finish and a thin layer of air, or gaseous solvent, is refracting differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My sister thinks it's water in my case. &lt;em&gt;I haven't tried this&lt;/em&gt; but she said to place a piece of clean, dry cloth over the area and run an iron, at a very low temperature setting, over the area. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hey, a search seems to support my sister's claim: &lt;a href=&quot;http://littlegreennotebook.com/2011/02/how-to-remove-white-heat-marks-on.html/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://littlegreennotebook.com/2011/02/how-to-remove-white-heat-marks-on.html/&lt;/a&gt; Do note that this recommendation uses a damp cloth. Hmmm. . .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more, search &quot;removing white heat marks on furniture&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2762" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2017-01-31T22:58:08.580" LastActivityDate="2017-01-31T22:58:08.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5421" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5422" CreationDate="2017-02-01T04:40:15.997" Score="6" ViewCount="4457" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently do not own a table saw or a band saw which is what I have seen typically used to resaw wood in half or to smaller dimensions. I would like to half a board to make a small box but only have a Japanese pull saw, a reciprocating saw, circular saw, a chop saw, and a hack saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which tool would be best to accomplish this and keep the cut reasonably straight? Using the pull saw is my first guess but the board is about 5 feet long and I worry about deviating from the line on material that's about a half an inch thick. I plan to plane down the material once it's sawed so I don't mind losing some of the waste material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3250" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2019-01-29T23:41:26.450" LastActivityDate="2019-01-29T23:41:26.450" Title="How can I resaw material using only hand tools?" Tags="|hand-tools|hand-saw|resawing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5421" CreationDate="2017-02-01T10:26:26.907" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Which tool would be best to accomplish this &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of the saws you list I think the pull saw is the best choice, in fact while it's theoretically possible to do it with one or two of the others doing it with the pull saw may be the only reasonable option. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Japanese routinely resaw boards by hand with their saws* and many Western woodworkers who use Asian-style saws find them good for this, better than the Western-style saws they've tried for the same operation. I should mention though, when comparing it should be done using a sharp, properly set rip saw on the Western end, and not a modern panel saw with general-purpose teeth which not infrequently is what the comparison is against.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;keep the cut reasonably straight? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of this depends on you. There are some standard techniques that can help ensure a straight cut but just as with anything involving hand tools it usually requires practice to get good results (some people have more of a knack for it than others). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fundamentally it starts with careful marking out and good sawing technique. You saw slowly (letting the saw do the work and not forcing it, and deliberately not trying to saw fast), and pause often as you go so that you can spot and correct for drift when it occurs. Note these points are just as important for an experienced sawyer as for a beginner, so it's best to get into the habits early.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And also you shouldn't expect to saw a board through in one operation start to finish, that's nearly never done when resawing by hand. Instead expect to work in from both ends to meet up in the middle, repositioning the wood at least three or four times but frequently many more times than this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since most people tend to drift in the same direction try not to flip the board when doing this so that the drifts go in opposite directions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do drift off your line a fair bit the sawn faces will require quite a bit of planing to get them flat so you can loose quite a bit more thickness than intended. You may want to factor this in to begin with by working to a greater thickness than eventually needed, or be flexible about the thickness of the stock you end up with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some pics showing resawing in action:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WpA3b.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WpA3b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Resawing by hand&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus pics showing it being done with a ryoba:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z8QzG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z8QzG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Resawing with ryoba&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope these help get across the importance of having your work firmly held as you saw. While using a vice for this is one of the simplest and best ways it's not the only way so anyone without a vice don't despair, you can get creative with a few clamps if that's all you have. But the work &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; be held firmly or you're setting yourself up for a world of trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Detail pic of a ryoba showing the two types of teeth clearly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cin7b.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cin7b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ryoba with detail of teeth&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The larger triangular teeth are the rip teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Kerfing tool&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; way to 'cheat' on the experience of doing these cuts many times so you have become very good at it. Using a kerf established around all four edges of a board is the number one way to guard against drift and a dedicated kerf-cutting tool is the best way to create those kerfs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On shorter boards it's quite doable to use a marking or cutting gauge, a knife &amp;amp; straightedge and a chisel to create a definite groove on the edges to work in from, but a properly established kerf is far better at keeping the saw on track (you still have to do your part). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately it means you either have to buy a kerfing tool (or kit) or make one from scratch, but if you plan to resaw a lot by hand you may find it worth the money or effort. So far I haven't bitten the bullet and made one but it's on my to-do list as resawing any significant length is proving challenging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See previous Answer for more on resawing and the modern kerf-cutting tool, the kerfing plane: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2206/creating-additional-boards-from-thick-lumber/2208#2208&quot;&gt;Creating additional boards from thick lumber&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some further outside links with much more useful information, pics and video on resawing by hand:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.closegrain.com/2012/10/resawing-by-hand.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Resawing By Hand&lt;/a&gt; on Close Grain.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bob-easton.com/blog/2015/3353/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Resawing again – Problems and Solutions&lt;/a&gt; on Bob Easton's blog.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.badgerwoodworks.com/2012/09/resawing-a-board-by-hand/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Resawing a board by hand &lt;/a&gt; from Badger Woodworks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, all three of the above emphasise the importance of flipping the board frequently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Note that this is a ripping operation so ideally you want to use a rip saw for it. There's a good chance your generic &quot;Japanese pull saw&quot; is sharpened for crosscutting and while it can do the job it'll labour, particularly in fibrous woods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2017-02-02T10:04:14.403" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5419" CreationDate="2017-02-01T11:16:05.650" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although that's not the finishing process I'd use everything you did there was right on the money, until the very last step — you didn't let the product dry for long enough before putting it into service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Briefly, the dry time between coats is just enough to make putting on the next coat work well but the product is likely not fully dry by then and it's certainly not cured (the part of the drying process that occurs after the drying phase). After the initial drying products like this cure by oxidation and while the process is sped up with the additional of metallic driers to make it more user-friendly it's still something that takes days to complete minimum, and more likely a week or more despite what the product literature might say or imply. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now all of the above is based on average room temperatures. Both stages, drying and curing, are greatly sped up by high temperatures and slowed by low temperatures. 45-60°F (7-16°C) is at the low end of viable temps for finishing* so more time should definitely be allocated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously your house will be warmer than your garage and it's often done to take a finished project into the house to complete 'drying' and while it's doing so it shouldn't be used. Given the strong odour of many products like this many people wouldn't want to anyway!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;But, my problem is i am seeing oil still seep out of the wood grain in tiny dots that are surfacing hours after I wiped it down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's perfectly normal on oak which has large, deep pores. All it is is uncured oil seeping out, and you just need to wipe it away until the process stops. It shouldn't take more than one or two days at room temp &lt;strong&gt;but&lt;/strong&gt; until the finish has &lt;em&gt;fully&lt;/em&gt; cured if you heat the surface again with hot plates or waffles you will very likely get a recurrence, since any partially-cured oil in the finish can liquefy when heated and capillary action will tend to bring it to the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The kids ate breakfast on it this morning and placed hot waffles directly on the table top and it left a cloudy mark where the waffles were (looks like it knocked the sheen down and turned it to a matte finish in those areas).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again to be expected because the finish hadn't had a chance to harden up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fixing the matt/matte areas&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You may be able to just buff the surface to a uniform sheen with a cloth and plenty of elbow grease. If this doesn't work then wiping on a fresh coat of finish and buffing it off should do the trick (tip: don't just wipe away the excess, wipe &lt;em&gt;hard&lt;/em&gt;, buffing the surface well for a good 5-10 minutes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How long to wait before putting a piece to use&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Products like &quot;Danish oil&quot; vary a lot from maker to maker and additionally how much was initially applied, the absorbency of the wood, the temperature and humidity and how thoroughly the excess was wiped away are all factors in the 'drying' time. And the expected use of the piece is a factor too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a sideboard that'll just sit there and look pretty just a couple of days would usually be sufficient. But for a working table it's good to err on the side of caution and wait &lt;em&gt;at least&lt;/em&gt; a week. Waiting longer isn't at all a bad idea. Many pros err on the side of caution and wait a month or more, when possible, after the last coat has gone on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*If temps are hovering around 45-50 moving the piece indoors to finish is a good plan, and where that's not an option serious consideration should be given to holding off until the weather is warmer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-02-01T11:16:05.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5424" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5738" CreationDate="2017-02-01T16:14:20.837" Score="3" ViewCount="2335" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a cheap 3 1/4&quot; hand-held power planer, and some 4x4s that I'd like to plane down about 1/16&quot; on all four sides to square up the corners. Normally, I'd do this on the table saw, but my saw is out of service at the moment, and my hacked-together upside-down-circular-saw-in-MDF version isn't big enough to cut all the way through the 4x4. (It also wobbles, which isn't great.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue I'm having is that, since the planer is narrower than the board, I get a lovely step / ridge in the middle. I've tried setting the fence so that I can plane half of the board at the time, but this gives results best described as &quot;amateur hour.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3096" LastEditorUserId="3096" LastEditDate="2017-02-01T17:21:40.467" LastActivityDate="2017-03-25T20:21:28.900" Title="Planing boards with the nearly useless hand-held power planer" Tags="|power-tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5425" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5434" CreationDate="2017-02-01T17:08:54.000" Score="2" ViewCount="5274" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to woodworking and I am trying to reproduce a picture frame I found in a catalog. I wonder how they achieve a slightly rounded edge (see picture below). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that they use a router and router table, but I can't figure out what bit they would use. Can someone please help me understand how this can be done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qT3Jx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qT3Jx.png&quot; alt=&quot;Picture Frame&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1607" LastActivityDate="2017-02-02T10:38:36.403" Title="How to achieve slightly rounded edge?" Tags="|router|router-bit|router-table|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5426" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5432" CreationDate="2017-02-01T17:18:53.877" Score="5" ViewCount="10013" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have spent too many hours using my poor man's plane consisting of a flat block and a piece of sandpaper to flatten down my dovetail pins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking to buy a hand plane and am a little overwhelmed by all of the choices.  I am probably going to order one Lie-Nielson to get started with.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the most general purpose plane I should buy first?  Things I would like to do with this plane:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flatten pins in dovetail joints&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plane boards that are about 3-4 feet long maximum, more often than not only about 2 feet&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Square boards with a shooting board&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any info or suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3135" LastEditorUserId="3135" LastEditDate="2017-02-01T17:36:00.233" LastActivityDate="2017-02-02T01:31:45.253" Title="Most general purpose hand plane for limited budget" Tags="|hand-tools|hand-planing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5425" CreationDate="2017-02-01T17:20:12.937" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-Roundover-Router-Bit-Set-4-Piece-A25RS41/205626174&quot;&gt;roundover bit&lt;/a&gt; in a router&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1S3Ma.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1S3Ma.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Roundover bit&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use a router table or not, and there are several different size roundover bits. In your picture, it looks like maybe a 1/8&quot; bit was used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also round over the edges slightly while sanding. This may be the better option if your picture frame isn't very big and/or you're not looking for a big roundover. You'll be sanding anyway, so rounding the edges is an easy thing to do at the same time, and doesn't require getting out the router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Product links / images are for example only&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastActivityDate="2017-02-01T17:20:12.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5410" CreationDate="2017-02-01T19:46:23.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many possibilities to reduce flex:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Metal bar (L,T or U-shaped cross-section) fastened with screws to the bottom.&#xA;Use many fasteners at the ends.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If flex is still present, you can use e.g. 1x4 wooden board fastened to the hanging wing of the metal bar,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use another particle board for the top (for 1.5in total thickness),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move legs towards center (as suggested earlier by @jpa).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make a 5th leg from 2x4 in the center, or some kind of horse, or even put some cabinet there.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3253" LastEditorUserId="2524" LastEditDate="2017-02-02T21:39:00.520" LastActivityDate="2017-02-02T21:39:00.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5426" CreationDate="2017-02-01T19:57:49.977" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;While the jack plane (e.g. Stanley #5) is often considered a general purpose plane, it is longer and heavier than you would need for most of what you have listed.  It should have a slight advantage over a #4 for flattening and squaring a 4 foot board, but I think this would be pretty minor, so I would recommend a smoothing (e.g Stanley #4) plane instead.  I personally favor bevel-down planes, because I believe they are less sensitive to the sharpening angle, and because the chipbreaker can sometimes help reduce tearout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, since you are planning on purchasing at least one high-quality plane, it makes more sense to spend that money on a smoothing plane, where the quality of the plane makes the most difference.  Later, if you want a larger plane to flatten and square rough lumber, you can get a used or antique plane for much less money, and at that point you will have a good idea how it should work, which will make rehabbing / fettling it easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the Lie-Nielsen site, they only have the #4 size in brass.  Brass is heavier, which can have advantages for smoothing, but is more expensive and can be more tiring to use.  Lee Valley carries a line of high quality planes, including a #4.  Lee Valley planes are significantly cheaper than Lie-Nielsen, but from what I have read, the difference between the two brands is not so much build quality / effectiveness as it is personal preference.  (For example, I have a rather expensive block plane from Lee Valley which, if I'm being completely honest, doesn't feel as good in my hand as my $12 estate-sale Stanley.)  So if you are lucky enough to have a nearby store or hand-tool event, I'd encourage you to try both brands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2017-02-01T19:57:49.977" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5430" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5437" CreationDate="2017-02-01T20:53:29.637" Score="5" ViewCount="628" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am practicing dovetails and so I have made various stools of differing sizes consisting of three pieces of rectangular wood: one for the seat and two for the legs, being joined with dovetails.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to put a joining piece between the two legs to prevent splaying under heavy load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find much information on what the proper joint for this would be.  I would rather not go all the way through the legs for something like a pull-through dovetail just because I haven't done it before and don't want to ruin the stool (which is for my dad).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of just a simple T-butt joint but I have been reading that it is very poor for a joint which needs to take any tension.  Does adding some small dado to the accepting end of the butt-joint help increase the tensile strength of the joint in any substantial way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of my tools... pretty sparse.  I have chisels, hammer, and a dovetail saw; along with copious amounts of sand paper :P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I have gotten this far without any metal I am also going to avoid any mechanical fasteners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&#xA;I added a rough picture showing the current three parts and where I want to put the additional piece (green).  Thanks.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EmAyX.png&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EmAyX.png&quot; alt=&quot;simplestool&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3135" LastEditorUserId="3135" LastEditDate="2017-02-02T17:10:23.857" LastActivityDate="2017-02-02T21:58:18.253" Title="Joining two flat legs of stool" Tags="|joinery|hand-tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5426" CreationDate="2017-02-01T20:56:38.850" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A #4 would be a great plane to start with. It's one that I have started with and it's done everything I have asked of it in the last year. It's a Stanley which was fairly inexpensive compared with Lie Nielsen, about $65. It does require tuning out of the box to polish the sole and sharpen the blade before working with it. If you don't mind the extra work it's been one of my better purchases for woodworking (although they are few and far between!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative to Lie Nielsen, although I do covet them, would be Woodriver planes. I personally have not used one yet but have heard great things: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodcraft.com/products/woodriver-4-bench-hand-plane-v3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.woodcraft.com/products/woodriver-4-bench-hand-plane-v3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a bit cheaper compared to the Lie Nielsen but would allow you to just hone the blade and get to work compared with the Stanley.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do find a plane second hand as the previous answer mentions, I recommend watching the video of how to tune one up so you are aware of the work involved, this one comes from Paul Sellers: &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/RYyV6IUpsYk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/RYyV6IUpsYk&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3250" LastActivityDate="2017-02-01T20:56:38.850" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5426" CreationDate="2017-02-02T01:31:45.253" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll try not to let this run too long but there's a lot more ground to cover here than you might expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flatten pins in dovetail joints&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plane boards that are about 3-4 feet long maximum, more often than not only about 2 feet&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Square boards with a shooting board&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly all those things can be accomplished with any bench plane within reason, so from a 3 to a 6 in Stanley's numbering system (and including both a 4 1/2 and 5 1/2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in reality you wouldn't normally choose to do all of that with just one plane. Planes no. 3 through to 4 1/2 are intended to be smoothing planes, and they are geared towards doing just that, smoothing. They're not intended for flattening tasks, although they can be pressed into service for that it's not without a penalty in time and effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am probably going to order one Lie-Nielson to get started with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you're unlikely to be unhappy with an L-N purchase I'm basically going to recommend straight out that you reconsider and go with something else. For someone in your position I think a cheaper brand or vintage from the secondhand market are a much better proposition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A premium for what?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;My general point is about paying a premium for a plane (and L-N's are among the most expensive of modern planes produced in large numbers, particularly so outside of North America). One of the things that you pay a premium for is higher standards of machining on all parts, with tighter tolerances, which supposedly gives you a plane that works better, adjusts more easily, keeps setting better and lasts longer. &lt;em&gt;But in reality most of that is smoke and mirrors&lt;/em&gt;, because planes produced not to be &amp;quot;heirloom tools&amp;quot; but merely as working men's tools — vintage planes from any number of makers, including Millers Falls, Record and Stanley of course — have a proven track record in both performance and longevity, with many planes well in excess of 75 years old still in daily use in a professional setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This shows quite clearly that we don't actually need those far higher tolerances for real-world performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And of course it calls into question just what the premium pricetag is actually for. Since it's not about performance or about durability feel free to speculate what it is you're actually paying for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lower-cost planes can require more work (called &lt;em&gt;fettling&lt;/em&gt;, see more on that in the link at bottom) to 'commission' or get ready for use, and the lower price point reflects this. Notice I said &lt;strong&gt;can&lt;/strong&gt; require more work. Not all cheaper planes require anything like the effort to commission that you read about too frequently online (two hours+ needed to lap the sole flat and so on). I've had three planes new planes pass through my hands that each cost less than $30 and an experienced plane user could have gotten any one of them ready to do fine work in under half an hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, one of the other things that buying cheaper allows is buying more tools for the same money (less money in fact), which leads on to my recommendations for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I'd get instead&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The important take-home message here is &lt;em&gt;you can get equal performance from planes that cost far less&lt;/em&gt;. On top of that for the new user you're less likely to want to baby a tool that didn't cost so much, and if you won't be hesitant to use it hard when needed it can be a great boon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in reality what you'd really be better off with here is a selection of planes from a cheaper brand, or, the same selection in vintage tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2-3 planes instead of one&lt;/strong&gt; I would want to have at least a no. 3, 4 or 4 1/2 (pick based on your hand size and strength) and a 5, the latter set up traditionally with a curved cutting edge on the iron for faster stock removal. And given the choice I'd also like a low-angle block plane too, although this isn't at all a must-have and you could quite happily live without one*.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;One plane only&lt;/strong&gt; If you go with just a single plane I would get a 4 or 4 1/2 and a spare iron which you can sharpen differently. This in effect turns the one plane into two different planes depending on which iron is fitted — cambered iron for flattening and faster stock removal, iron sharpened straight (with corners rounded off) or with a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; slight radius for smoothing tasks, jointing edges and end-grain work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little more on some of these points in these previous Answers:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2470/what-makes-a-high-quality-bench-plane/2473#2473&quot;&gt;What makes a high quality bench plane?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4133/fettling-a-hand-plane/4150#4150&quot;&gt;Fettling a hand plane&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4763/different-ways-to-set-up-a-number-4-bench-plane/4766#4766&quot;&gt;Different ways to set up a Number 4 bench plane&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*These days it's often said or implied that you need a low-angle plane for working on end grain, but that's not at all the case. Actually low-angle planes are a relatively modern thing and just as in the past any standard bench plane is perfectly capable of planing end grain if sharpened to a sufficiently high standard. This is why the most common plane used for tackling mitres in a mitre shooting board might be a no. 5 (some users even prefer a 6 or 7 for this, for their extra heft).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2017-02-02T01:31:45.253" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5425" CreationDate="2017-02-02T07:33:55.957" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can break the corners a few times with a block plane set to take a very shallow cut. First make a 45 degree pass to make one facet, then break both corners of that facet, repeat on both corners of each additional facet, and so on, as needed until it is sufficiently rounded. With each pass, it will get closer to being round. You can sand lightly to further smooth it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2017-02-02T07:33:55.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5425" CreationDate="2017-02-02T10:38:36.403" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A router is overkill for doing a very slight roundover like this, although it will do the job well and very repeatably of course once you've dialled in the setting on the router or the router table. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As already described well in the Answer from @rob, you can do this sort of thing very well with a hand plane*, followed by light sanding with finer paper (whatever your finishing grit is). But not everyone has a hand plane or wants to get one so it's important to mention that you can do this simply by sanding alone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is one of the few times I'd recommend sanding as a viable shaping technique, but here it's appropriate since it's such an easy thing to do and it gives such good results. On an edge like this perhaps two passes with 80 or 100 grit paper (using a soft block or with the paper backed just by your fingers) followed by a couple of passes with 150 or 180 paper will give you very even, consistent results just about any time you need it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No setup involved, just a few moments' work and after a quick dust off you're ready to apply finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Doesn't have to be a block plane, they're just handy because they can be used one-handed with the work held by the other hand. Mind your knuckles doing this on narrow stock!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-02-02T10:38:36.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5430" CreationDate="2017-02-02T21:58:18.253" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since your legs are less than an inch thick I am not confident that the dovetail joints will handle the lateral loads that the stool will experience, so the stretcher is a good idea.  To understand what type of joint is needed, consider the way the loads will be applied. Vertical loads from the person sitting on it will be easily carried by the legs and the leg/seat joints are fine.  As weight is added, the legs will want to splay in or out to the outside spread eagle or lean in parallel to one side or the other.  The shallow dado connection you have proposed will certainly prevent the legs splaying inward where the stretcher is compressed, however the joint is little more than a butt joint and will not  resist being pulled apart if the legs splay out or lean. One or both ends of the stretcher will be pulled out of the leg.  This pulling force is what must be resisted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do so using a mortise/tenon joint which extends deeper into the leg thickness (say 5/8&quot;) or by a through tenon with a pin on the exterior.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JpXoC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JpXoC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Through Tenon&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another alternative is to screw the stretcher to the leg from the outside using a countersunk screw.  You can plug the screw hole with a wood plug. A cutter bit for your drill is inexpensive and allows you to match your project wood.  When you align the grain, the plug will all but disappear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JtRj1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JtRj1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wood plug cutter&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2017-02-02T21:58:18.253" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5439" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5440" CreationDate="2017-02-03T20:45:25.863" Score="2" ViewCount="720" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of just a quick note, I'm struggling to explain exactly  what I'm looking for, so I made a quick image of what I mean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VWTeK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VWTeK.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A new project I'm looking to undertake has me a bit stumped; I want to create a coffee table that has flaps on the shorter of the vertical sides, that fold up and extends the table creating a longer, yet still flat, table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the problem is that I don't want to use just a regular hinge or piano hinge because when the flaps are folded down, there would be a gap between the top and flaps. So of course I tried looking for a solution. At first I thought of European hinges, but when its folded open it doesn't pull back to eliminate the gap between the flaps and table but leaves a gap. So I continued looking for an answer online and found something way better:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zu5pTzX1rYQ&amp;amp;ab_channel=HomeDesignLovers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zu5pTzX1rYQ&amp;amp;ab_channel=HomeDesignLovers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note how when the legs are folded in the table top lies on the flaps/sides. How does one achieve this? Is there a way to have the flaps sides next to the table top instead of under (like in my original idea)? What are the hinges called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3258" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2017-02-03T23:16:54.853" LastActivityDate="2017-02-03T23:43:45.883" Title="Hinge that extends flap/door so that it is in line with the wood it is mounted to?" Tags="|hinges|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5439" CreationDate="2017-02-03T21:13:36.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This seems to do what you are thinking:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hardwaretree.com/proddetail.php?prod=H-417L&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.hardwaretree.com/proddetail.php?prod=H-417L&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The installation does look rather tricky, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iBn14.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iBn14.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pivot Hinge&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-02-03T22:24:14.860" LastActivityDate="2017-02-03T22:24:14.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5441" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5444" CreationDate="2017-02-03T21:34:02.303" Score="1" ViewCount="179" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good day all&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to start building a wooden &quot;shelf&quot; of sorts, the problem is that I have literally no experience. So I have been looking at a bunch of youtube tutorials and asking my stepdad for some help (lately he's too busy) and doing some research.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The design is actually really simple: There are two arching side supports with 3 &quot;shelves&quot; in the middle. 450mm tall, base radius of 300mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qtn1E.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qtn1E.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the cutting of the curves I'm not worried about (I got a stencil and a jigsaw at the ready) what I was wondering was if I could use wood glue and dowels to secure everything together? Or would it be better to stick to screws?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly; I was thinking of using pine, but in my research found out that it is a very soft wood, would this be okay provided it would only carry small light objects (Keys, pens, rubiks cubes, Nicolas Cage bobble head)? What would be a better alternative taking into account that I want to use a light (colour wise, not weight) wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And lastly; What sealer do I use? I saw that there really isn't one correct answer for this. What I want is a clear, dry curing layer to protect the wood and keeps its colour. So an acrylic lacquer maybe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for helping the noob&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3258" LastActivityDate="2017-02-04T00:02:39.143" Title="Shelf building questions from a newbie" Tags="|glue|wood-selection|finish-selection|screws|dowel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5441" CreationDate="2017-02-03T22:02:51.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would seriously consider using plywood and edge-banding, as it's likely to be challenging to find a pine board 12&quot; (300mm) wide that will stay flat, without gluing up a panel. That depends a bit on what you have ready supply of and what tools you have available though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dowels and glue should be plenty strong enough, but so would screws and glue, and that would require a bit less in the tool department. Getting dowels well-centered and positioned in the edge of a board is harder than it may look. If your dowel holes don't line up well on both pieces you'll have problems at assembly time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be strongly inclined to orient the grain of the back panels vertically if you did go with solid wood, as an 18&quot; wide board would be hard to find and vertical orientation would be somewhat stronger in this item (although both are probably more than strong enough).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2017-02-03T22:02:51.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5439" CreationDate="2017-02-03T23:43:45.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of something like what @Graphus suggests, but I am assuming that you wish to keep the square profile as depicted in your drawing.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0IgV1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0IgV1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any chance you could affix the flap with a piano hinge, and fabricate a removable fill strip with the same finish as the top and flap (or contrasting finish, if you wish) that rides in the open corner that appears when the flap is down?  You could secure it with a couple dowels in the bottom of the strip that insert into matching holes in the flap edge, or probably better, into holes in the end of the table edge. This design adds a seam to the top of the table for each flap, but preserves the desired profile and makes the design pretty simple to implement - no contraption-y, expensive hinges needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1457" LastActivityDate="2017-02-03T23:43:45.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5441" CreationDate="2017-02-04T00:02:39.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;what I was wondering was if I could use wood glue and dowels to secure everything together? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally that would be fine but there's a potential problem with the design of this piece because the wood meets in a corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the width of some components you have to take wood movement into account if this is made from solid wood as you intend and not from a board material like plywood or MDF. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wood movement generally&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Solid wood absorbs and loses water through the seasons as humidity goes up and down and as its internal moisture level changes it expands and contracts across its width. If the expansion of one piece doesn't match that of the piece it is attached to it's a problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You must allow the wood to move or stress builds up and it can cause warping or cracks, either along the glue joints or in the wood itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wood movement here&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When two pieces are joined at 90° usually they each expand and contract in the same direction (a classic example being a shelf and the side of the case in a standard bookcase). But here, because of the corner design the grain in the shelves is in the correct orientation with one side panel but at right angles to it on the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of this you can glue and dowel the shelves to the left panel in your image, but the shelves need to be allowed to move relative to the right panel so some other fixing method needs to be utilised there (and the shelf can't be glue on that side, except in towards the corner).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How you can ignore it&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Or you could make your shelving unit from plywood instead and simplify things for yourself. Then you can glue and dowel the whole thing together without worrying about movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Secondly; I was thinking of using pine, but in my research found out that it is a very soft wood, would this be okay provided it would only carry small light objects (Keys, pens, rubiks cubes, Nicolas Cage bobble head)? What would be a better alternative taking into account that I want to use a light (colour wise, not weight) wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; soft. It is soft, but usually not intolerably so. I should mention there are many different subspecies of pine and some are actually reasonably hard in comparison to the usual stuff you'd buy in a big-box or similar. But even the softest kind is still perfectly usable for something like this, and in fact could be used for a kitchen table that will see regular use (as many such projects posted online show).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;And lastly; What sealer do I use? I saw that there really isn't one correct answer for this. What I want is a clear, dry curing layer to protect the wood and keeps its colour. So an acrylic lacquer maybe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is as much a matter of personal preference as anything. If you're happy with the cost and application method of an &quot;acrylic lacquer&quot; (I use quotes here because that can be a range of things) then go with it, it'll likely give you exactly what you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note however that you can't stop pine from changing colour due to exposure to light and oxygen. If the finish you use has UV blockers included in the formula those can delay colour changes in wood but the protection is not permanent. Eventually any area of the pine not shielded from light by the items placed on the shelves will darken a little bit and go slightly more yellow, which are the standard colour changes for pine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-02-04T00:02:39.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5197" CreationDate="2017-02-04T00:15:21.000" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apologies for the crummy illustration, I'm a graphics doofus :), and for not providing full instructions for the basic joints I'm mentioning (Google!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would start by making the &quot;A&quot; at each end with a half-lap joint (at the parallelogram where the legs cross - Google &quot;half-lap joint&quot;.) You can screw them together with four screws inside the corners of the p'gram, or clamp and glue together.  Then cut a through mortise (another thing you can Google) through the middle of the lap joint you made in the first step (shown as the little rectangle in the parallelogram.)  You can do this with, at minimum, your drill and a good sharp chisel.  Once you've cut the mortise, fashion a tenon (Google it!) at the end of the cross bar piece that fits snugly into it. Use your saw for this, cut close to the line, then clean up with your (new) chisel. Test fit, add glue, and assemble.  I think this would give a nice solid joint.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Agree with @Matt, go with larger wood, like 2x3.  I would like to note since you're a beginner that glue is stronger and more permanent than screws, and probably safer here because the screws could loosen over time, especially in something with movement like a swing, and pose something of a hazard (swing fall apart/down.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7RZxW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7RZxW.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1457" LastEditorDisplayName="user1457" LastEditDate="2017-02-04T00:20:45.993" LastActivityDate="2017-02-04T00:20:45.993" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4664" CreationDate="2017-02-04T00:35:12.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yours are rather oddly placed, so I can't say with authority that my explanation holds for them, but traditionally the grooves that run vertically on the back side of door jambs were placed there to relieve stress that could cause warping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1457" LastActivityDate="2017-02-04T00:35:12.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4664" CreationDate="2017-02-04T01:26:47.520" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd guess that surrounding trim was tongue-and-grooved in at some point ... But that's pure guess based on what I might have intended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2017-02-04T01:26:47.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5448" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-04T19:48:46.573" Score="4" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;The walnut table I just finished has one coat of oil based Varathane polyurethane.  In caring for it in the future, is wood oil or any such care product of use,  or will it just float and muddy the surface?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3263" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2017-02-05T04:35:43.473" LastActivityDate="2017-02-05T12:51:31.247" Title="Caring for a sealed finish" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5448" CreationDate="2017-02-04T21:50:18.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Finishes do not require &quot;feeding&quot;. If you are concerned, put more layers of finish on it now; after that keep it clean and dry and it will do just fine for the next several decades, until it is worn enough to be worth refinishing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2017-02-04T21:50:18.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5450" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-04T22:10:21.310" Score="1" ViewCount="648" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Intro&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only have a table saw, no band saw. I do have a jig saw, though.&#xA;I have a 2' x 2' square of glued white oak that I wish to make into a circular table top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen articles and posts about getting a near circle with a sled/jig. I believe this is by rough cutting and then making many passes tangent to the blade. I'm fine with it not being perfectly smooth, but just dimensioned correctly enough that I can sand it with a belt sander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me this is a feasible idea. I'm comfortable around the table saw even with safety guards removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;My Question&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So  what is the best construction for such a sled?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My 10&amp;quot; blade will only come up 3&amp;quot; and my material is 1.5&amp;quot; thick, so the sled cannot exceed 1.5&amp;quot; itself. Being a tabletop, I'm not concerned with any holes within the inner 6&amp;quot; or so of the bottom of the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my table saw:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OcPtd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OcPtd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that concerns me is my slot for the runner is fairly close to the blade. But I guess, a solid cross cut sled runner will hold it tight for several feet out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not asking any of these questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/566/what-is-a-crosscut-sled-used-for?rq=1&quot;&gt;What is a crosscut sled used for?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1112/how-does-one-make-a-perfect-circle-on-a-table-saw?rq=1&quot;&gt;How does one make a perfect circle on a table saw?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2742/how-do-i-use-a-cross-cut-sled-safely?rq=1&quot;&gt;How do I use a cross-cut sled safely?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm asking about how to construct a quality and safe sled/jig that will still meet my specific needs. If there is another method on the table saw that is not how I described at the start, I'd love to hear that as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2017-02-08T01:40:46.497" Title="Table Saw Challenge: Making a Sled for a 2' Circle" Tags="|table-saw|jig|cut|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5451" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5452" CreationDate="2017-02-05T00:04:49.607" Score="1" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wanted to clean and protect the cabinets and railings in our house. They feel very dry to touch and ones in the bathroom look dirty. But first I want to understand what kind of wood was used for these. I tried to read up on kinds of woods on these blogs and it helps a bit but not enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bhg.com/kitchen/cabinets/styles/kitchen-cabinet-material-types/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.bhg.com/kitchen/cabinets/styles/kitchen-cabinet-material-types/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/common-us-hardwoods/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/common-us-hardwoods/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hoping to do some sanding, wood conditioner, some staining, and polyurethane. Still debating if I should use stain on it as it is making it too dark. Someone was suggesting if it is a nice kind of wood then I should go this way. Otherwise, I could use RUST-OLEUM Cabinet Transformations Kit. &#xA;That's the story. Any direction would be helpful. I'm hoping to keep it light in color as cabinets cover a large area and will make the kitchen look dark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rZ9g9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rZ9g9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cabinet 1 of 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0vX68.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0vX68.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cabinet 2 of 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sutKC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sutKC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Railing 1 of 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jXcSy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jXcSy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Railing 2 of 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3265" LastEditorUserId="3265" LastEditDate="2017-02-06T02:32:52.200" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T02:32:52.200" Title="Clean and protect cabinets and railing" Tags="|staining|sanding|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2017-02-05T21:49:40.880" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5451" CreationDate="2017-02-05T00:43:18.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dry to touch is not a problem. Likely a bit of wax is all you need, if that. Wood for cabinets is probably plywood with hardwood face; be very careful if you insist on sanding. Looks fine as is; what do you want to accomplish by refinishing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2017-02-05T00:43:18.500" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5448" CreationDate="2017-02-05T12:51:31.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK first off one coat of oil-based poly probably isn't enough, but it does depend on what use the piece is put to how much finish does constitute an adequate protective coat. For furniture that sees regular use, handling or wear two full-strength coats should probably be thought of as the minimum necessary for protection (4-6 coats if you're diluting and wiping the finish on).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In caring for it in the future, is wood oil or any such care product of use, or will it just float and muddy the surface?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are of use in that they can help clean off dust and grime*, and when the finish has dulled they add sheen ....as long as they remain on the surface, &lt;strong&gt;but&lt;/strong&gt;, they're not actually any good for the wood. All manufacturer's claims about how they care for your furniture can be lumped together as &lt;em&gt;hogwash&lt;/em&gt; &gt;_&amp;lt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How should we care for finished furniture?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The primary care step should be regular &lt;em&gt;dry&lt;/em&gt; dusting, with wiping using a damp cloth reserved for when the surface is actually dirty (because it is water that will do most to undermine a finish over the years, eventually doing more harm than dust or grime). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than dusting the oldest way to care for finished wood I think was waxing and it's still the best option in many ways. Any decent paste wax (like Johnson's venerable Paste Wax in the yellow tins) is a much better option than any spray &quot;furniture polish&quot; that contains oils or silicone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note you can easily make your own paste wax at home if you prefer, brief instructions at the end of &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1476/table-saw-top-treatment/1484#1484&quot;&gt;this Answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*But so can a cloth dampened with warm soapy water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For woodworkers and anyone else who routinely has some mineral spirits (UK: white spirit) or turpentine in the house if a piece gets actually greasy on a regular basis it's &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; better to degrease the surface with one of these solvents than it is to wash it down with soap and water, it won't harm the finish and you don't risk water getting through to the wood and undermining the finish, particularly at edges or anywhere else it is thin, worn away or otherwise damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2017-02-05T12:51:31.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5450" CreationDate="2017-02-05T13:11:42.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a hole on one side of the completed circular piece is acceptable this is a simple matter of mounting the roughed-out shape on to a pin of some kind (bit of dowel, a nail with the head clipped off as well as other options) and then rotating it against something that will cut or abrade the edge, forming a perfect circle centred on that pin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you have a belt sander you can use the sander to do almost the whole job, rather than risk working with the table saw with the guard raised or removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most methods are broadly similar, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/sanding/one-way-to-make-a-perfect-circle/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;One way to make a perfect circle&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;em&gt;&quot;Disc-sand the workpiece with this quick-and-easy jig&quot;&lt;/em&gt; on Wood Magazine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want a hole left in the completed piece it can easily be filled or plugged, which if done in a contrasting colour can provide a nice decorative accent but obviously YMMV. Where you don't want to make a hole in the workpiece you can attach a temporary pivot block to one side by sticking in on using a paper joint, using &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2752/how-do-i-temporarily-attach-two-pieces-of-wood-together-for-machining/2757#2757&quot;&gt;two pieces of tape and superglue&lt;/a&gt;, or a strong double-sided tape (but beware of creep if using this type of tape).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's another guide on Wood Magazine's site for a no-hole method, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/sanding/disc-sander-circle-jig&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Disc Sander Circle Jig&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;em&gt;&quot;Make circles without holes&quot;&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This previous Q&amp;amp;A may be of some further help:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4033/best-way-to-make-round-coasters/4047#4047&quot;&gt;Best way to make round coasters&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2017-02-05T13:11:42.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5451" CreationDate="2017-02-05T14:56:01.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So, what kind of wood is it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks a lot like Red Oak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Still debating if I should use stain on it as it is making it too dark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not recommend staining the wood unless all finish is removed.  Stains will only penetrate where the bare wood is exposed and unless the finish is fully removed the stain is likely to have a very uneven in appearance.  In addition the natural color of the wood looks great. Unless you have some sort of decorating strategy that requires a major change, I would suggest keeping the color as shown. Also stain is likely to diminish the expression of the wood grain.  Part of the beauty of oak is that the expression of the grain is so pronounced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is hard to tell from the photos, but it appears that the finish looks to be in very good shape. Try cleaning the wood with soap and water and applying furniture polish before taking bolder steps.  If there are a few problem areas you can get advise on how to fix them here on this site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I could use RUST-OLEUM Cabinet Transformations Kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my personal opinion as a wood enthusiast, that would be the worst choice.  Those kits are basically a solid paint with a glazed top coat to &quot;fake&quot; the appearance of wood.  You are talking about a lot of work to get a much poorer, less attractive and less marketable end result. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2017-02-05T14:56:01.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5457" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-05T21:16:46.123" Score="3" ViewCount="3155" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have flattened some cherry using a jointer and planer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what we call a planer in the UK&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EtztQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EtztQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The surface feels smooth to me. Can I now just apply Danish Oil to it? Or do I need to sand it further (by hand or orbital)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3264" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2017-02-05T21:55:26.397" LastActivityDate="2017-02-07T21:11:01.637" Title="Can I apply finish immediately after planing?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5457" CreationDate="2017-02-05T22:23:11.180" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can if you think the surface is good enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've never applied &quot;Danish oil&quot; to wood run through a planer you should do a test and see how you think the wood looks after the finish goes on. Either use a small scrap of the stock from the project you're working on or the back of one of the project boards. Go through the entire finishing process you plan to use and wait for the last coat to dry, then see what you think of the finished result. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a subtle texture left by a planer, wood isn't as flat and smooth as it could be, but if you're happy with how it looks after finishing then that's what counts. If you do find you'd prefer to smooth the wood further however you can hand plane (just skimming the surface with a smoothing plane), scrape or sand it as you prefer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-02-05T22:23:11.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5368" CreationDate="2017-02-05T23:38:23.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've looked at as many photos and diagrams of your sander that I could find online but without having it in front of me I can't be sure what method(s) would work best to mount this as you'd like. So I'm just going to post a selection of published methods, at least one of which should be adaptable to your sander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CXOLw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CXOLw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Belt-sander jig 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jvkx0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jvkx0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Belt-sander jig 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p20Xh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p20Xh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Belt-sander jig 3&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;strong&gt;Popular Mechanics&lt;/strong&gt;, November 1983&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jbK4c.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jbK4c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Belt-sander jig 4a&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v3NmV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v3NmV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Belt-sander jig 4b&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;strong&gt;ShopNotes&lt;/strong&gt; #53&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-02-05T23:38:23.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5460" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-06T17:53:59.897" Score="7" ViewCount="1162" Body="&lt;p&gt;I finally got a decent craigslist haul of a #4, #5 1/4, #6 Stanley Bailey and a bunch of spare blades. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been searching online and can find explanations for each of the adjustments.  But I am having a hard time understanding how they interact together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, moving the frog back is for taking larger shavings and less figured wood.  Moving it up is for smaller shavings and more figured woods.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A similar logic applies with the chip breaker.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would you ever use the chip breaker really opened up but with a tight mouth? Or the opposite?  Also what is the point of this lateral adjustment lever, is that just in case you want to take non-perpendicular shavings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other aspect is how the blade extension interacts with the chip breaker and the mouth opening.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Blade-Extension    Chip-breaker    Mouth            Ideal Cut&#xA;  Less                 Wide         Wide       Thinner shavings in straight grain&#xA;  More                 Wide         Wide       Thick shavings in straight grain&#xA;  Less                 Narrow       Wide&#xA;  More                 Narrow       Wide&#xA;  Less                 Wide         Narrow&#xA;  More                 Wide         Narrow&#xA;  Less                 Narrow       Narrow     Thin shavings in figured woods&#xA;  More                 Narrow       Narrow&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made a few guesses based on preliminary googling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3135" LastEditorUserId="3135" LastEditDate="2017-02-06T18:01:06.543" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T20:28:23.430" Title="hand plane controls (bevel down)" Tags="|hand-tools|hand-planing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5460" CreationDate="2017-02-06T19:35:46.663" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a link to a good summary of planes:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2470/what-makes-a-high-quality-bench-plane/2473?noredirect=1#comment12242_2473&quot;&gt;What makes a high quality bench plane?&lt;/a&gt; You might check out the comments as well where Graphus and I entertained a recent discussion on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have several old Baileys, I use them for a wide variety of tasks from hanging doors to building guitars. Some 40 years ago I set the frogs on these planes and haven't touched them since. They are set relatively narrow but fat enough to take healthy shavings off a pine door. I do all my fine adjustments with the cap iron (chip breaker). This has worked well for me and is a time saver since you must deal with this whenever changing the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a different matter using a block plane with no cap iron, I frequently adjust the frog on these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T19:35:46.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5460" CreationDate="2017-02-06T20:28:23.430" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Starting note: cap iron = chipbreaker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, moving the frog back is for taking larger shavings and less figured wood. Moving it up is for smaller shavings and more figured woods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A similar logic applies with the chip breaker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's correct in essence but you can simplify matters for yourself greatly if you take the frog out of the equation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can set the frog back so that it lines up with the mouth, giving full support for the iron along its length and down to as near to the cutting edge as the design of these planes allows. You can then leave the frog there for extended periods, permanently if you like. Some users &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; move the frog on a Bailey-style plane and there's a good reason they can get away with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason is you can control tearout effectively using the cap iron/chipbreaker alone&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cap iron is often used in concert with shaving thickness to conquer tearout but it's so effective it is possible to get tearout-free performance without having to take very very thin &amp;quot;lacy&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;feathery&amp;quot; shavings. Ultra-thin shavings can by themselves give very good results WRT tearout, but using the cap iron you can take heavier shavings and get the same (or better) results&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would you ever use the chip breaker really opened up but with a tight mouth?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes you would. In fact you'd often need to because the combination of a close cap iron and a tight mouth will often lead to shavings that clog the mouth almost immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you move the frog forward you generally will need to back off the cap iron somewhat. You can tweak things on some planes so that you can have a close (or close-ish) cap iron and a tight mouth, but you'll probably find that this is not really worth messing about with since the cap-iron setting by itself can do all you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The setting for the cap iron could be thought of as: &lt;em&gt;as far back as possible, as close as needed&lt;/em&gt;. But you'd probably appreciate some numbers as we all did when we were starting out so...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Setting the cap iron, some numbers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;For a no. 4 set up as a smoothing plane you'll rarely, if ever, want to set the cap iron more than 1/16&amp;quot; away from the cutting edge. Basically there are no situations where you'll want/feel the need to have it set further back than this as the plane won't be called upon to take shavings heavy enough to warrant it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar settings can be used for nos. 6, 7 and 8, and for a no. 5 if it isn't set up in the traditional manner for heavier material removal (5s can be used as longer smoother planes instead, or short jointers or fore planes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a jack plane used in the traditional way (with a fairly obvious radius on the cutting edge) or any Bailey-pattern plane converted to scrub or roughing use (even more pronounced radius on the cutting edge) you can set the cap iron as far back as the plane will allow. In practice this will be 1/4&amp;quot; (6mm)or a little more (note that once the cap iron is a certain distance back you don't gain any benefit from moving it away any more, and many planes won't allow a setting much greater than this anyway because of the distance between the cutting edge and the slot that the Y-shaped lever goes into).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a quick summary, approximate settings for the cap iron/chipbreaker for various tasks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1/4&amp;quot; (6mm) back for rough work (jack plane hogging off wood)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1/8&amp;quot; (3mm) back for long-grain shavings in easy wood&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1/16&amp;quot; (1.5mm) for wood that has some tendency to tear out, could be thought of as the default setting for a smoother&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1/64&amp;quot; or closer (under 0.4mm) for any very challenging planing — lots of knots, burr woods, interlocked grain/reversing grain, and for planing against the grain when there's no choice (e.g. when planing a lamination where all the boards couldn't be aligned to the same grain direction)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; don't get into the habit of trying to measure these distances, apart from not being efficient it's not possible once you get to the finest settings. Instead learn to eyeball it, you'll soon get the knack and it only needs to be approximately .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; This is the reason it was developed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; This obviously increases productivity and it's why double-iron planes very quickly came to dominate smooth-plane manufacture and purchasing, pushing single-iron bench planes nearly out of existence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T20:28:23.430" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5457" CreationDate="2017-02-06T21:14:14.280" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally a planer leaves a smooth finish. However there is a subtle set of marks left. These are parallel marks or stripes across the board perpendicular to the feed direction. If examined closely, from the side they look like slightly scalloped divots. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=planer+marks+on+wood&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;biw=1344&amp;amp;bih=811&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwiMzY6R8f7RAhWG5yYKHUQxDUAQ_AUIBygC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.google.com/search?q=planer+marks+on+wood&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;biw=1344&amp;amp;bih=811&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwiMzY6R8f7RAhWG5yYKHUQxDUAQ_AUIBygC&lt;/a&gt; show a variety of these marks. Here is an example: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nrEuk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nrEuk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; Here the the wood is stained and finished. If you are curious, wet the board and view the wood in a raking light. You will see the marks I am describing. If these don't bother you, when wet, then after the board dries, apply the oil and enjoy. If marks bother you, continue to move material until you are happy. The marks are from the planner. Thinner cuts with a slower feed rate will minimize these slight marks but rarely will they completely disappear. Sand paper or finely-set hand planes are possible next steps (It only takes a minute with a finishing plane).  Also the very ends of the board may have deeper divots as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your planer blades have nicks, there will small ridges that run the length of the board as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that stain or gloss paint will emphasize the slight pattern I'm describing. As noted by Graphus, I would also suggest working with a bit of scrap to ensure success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be interested in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/rules_for_sanding_wood&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/rules_for_sanding_wood&lt;/a&gt; where I found the image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastEditorUserId="111" LastEditDate="2017-02-07T21:11:01.637" LastActivityDate="2017-02-07T21:11:01.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5450" CreationDate="2017-02-06T23:09:00.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just say no to non-linear cuts on a table saw. A much better answer if you don't have a band saw would to use a router jig with a compass base. You can get an excellent cut by either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plunge the circle in small depth increments with a downcut bit- you may only do 1/4 inch a pass. Cut the last 1/16 of an inch by hand to avoid tear out on the bottom. Small increments should avoid problems even in oak. I've had good results with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;bandsaw/jigsaw close to the line and use tiny increments to advance to the line with a compression bit (upcut and downcut together that cuts toward the middle of the thickness of the board- no tear out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any technique, you want the router to only take a bit with each pass. The last pass is only taking off the fuzz from the the next to last one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3266" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T23:09:00.557" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5465" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5466" CreationDate="2017-02-07T15:24:25.993" Score="2" ViewCount="48234" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm comparing it to mineral spirits essentially. Are they the same on wood? Mineral spirits seems to strip off any finishing on wood, will WD-40 do the same?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3265" LastActivityDate="2017-11-04T07:58:09.563" Title="Is it OK to use WD-40 to clean wood?" Tags="|clean-up|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5465" CreationDate="2017-02-07T15:39:39.183" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;WD-40 is not equivalent to mineral spirits at all. Mineral spirits should normally be just naptha, where WD-40 has multiple different petroleum base oils, as well as a few other ingredients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their compositions can be seen in the material safety data sheets:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wd40company.com/files/pdf/msds-wd494716385.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;WD-40 MSDS&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.saylesschool.org/MSDS/Oderless%20Mineral%20Spirits.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mineral Spirits MSDS&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&#xA;As Allman and Keshlam say, the short answer is it will leave a residue that will be undesirable and most likely hazardous to a new finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastEditorUserId="2753" LastEditDate="2017-02-07T15:59:50.183" LastActivityDate="2017-02-07T15:59:50.183" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5465" CreationDate="2017-02-07T18:14:54.643" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it OK to use WD-40 to clean wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this is an &lt;em&gt;it depends&lt;/em&gt; more than a clear no. I wouldn't ever use it on bare wood, but then I don't think people should use mineral oil on wooden products and that is widely done these days. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have actually read of WD-40 being used as a finish of sorts for bare wood fairly recently on a blog somewhere, either for refinishing tool handles after the remains of the original finish had been sanded off or to finish new handles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one case I think WD-40 would be acceptable to use on wood would be to clean and polish &lt;em&gt;finished&lt;/em&gt; wood that was very grimy or greasy, essentially using it as a ghetto furniture polish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's something else I think I should cover and that's this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Mineral spirits seems to strip off any finishing on wood&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually mineral spirits (UK: white spirit) won't dissolve most finishes once they are dry/cured. Spirit and waterbased stains would be unaffected, it doesn't interact with most varnish (especially modern ones made using synthetic resins), it has zero effect on shellac, most lacquers and all the waterbased finishes I can think of. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will strip away wax however, because mineral spirits is a solvent for wax. But wax is rarely used as a standalone finish (for good reason, it provides little real protection by itself).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-02-07T18:14:54.643" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5468" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-07T21:32:07.750" Score="3" ViewCount="1167" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to maximize the chatoyance in some knotty Claro walnut I got.  After planing I am using a cabinet scraper because I was told that sandpaper causes the wood to have a lot less chatoyance, due to it looking like terry cloth at some scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am going to finish with arm-r-all by general finishes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips for maximizing the chatoyance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3135" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2017-02-09T03:08:10.353" LastActivityDate="2017-02-09T23:15:02.193" Title="Maximizing chatoyance in claro walnut" Tags="|finishing|cabinet-scraper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5468" CreationDate="2017-02-07T23:27:48.093" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this is one of those things you should do some comparative tests with, see the differences with your own eyes on your wood, prepped as you've done it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without using dyes or other colourants to selectively enhance parts of the figure the general idea is to use a clear finish and generally one with some sort of yellow or amber colouration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just as you can use shellac for it you can use varnish applied directly to the wood to enhance chatoyance. Either one can give a very good effect. With standard commercial varnishes some believe particularly if the first coat or two are thinned (I'm not convinced this is necessary, I thin varnishes only to make them easier to apply). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there are many who believe the effect is enhanced further if you oil the wood first and from what I've seen in my own experiments I would tend to agree. I do have to admit though that often the difference is slight, sometimes very slight. However, as oiling is only one extra step and doesn't take long I don't think there's any harm in doing it as part of your standard finishing regimen for this purpose*.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can probably use any drying or semi-drying oil for this. BLO was the standard choice for many years among Western woodworkers. You can use tung oil instead if that's what you have. The two oils work very similarly in this regard, much more similarly than fanboys of either would have one believe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further reading:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.opcaaw.com/InfoPages/popgrain.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;“Popping” the Grain&lt;/a&gt; by Stephen Hatcher (PDF).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.finewoodworking.com/fine-woodworking-knots/finishing/maximum-chatoyance&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;maximum chatoyance&lt;/a&gt; on Fine Woodworking Knots.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*As long as you're not trying to keep the wood as pale or whitish as possible in which case definitely don't oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-02-07T23:27:48.093" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5065" CreationDate="2017-02-08T01:15:35.777" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Forget the power tools.  That's like killing a mosquito with a shotgun.  Check out Paul Sellers' video on sharpening a kitchen knife (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bailuQUh2mY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bailuQUh2mY&lt;/a&gt;), then go get yourself 2 or 3 of the little diamond sharpening paddles he recommends.  Works great, my knives are nice and sharp, and it's convenient: I keep my paddles and my spacer block (you'll know what I mean when you watch the video) right by my knife storage block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1457" LastActivityDate="2017-02-08T01:15:35.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5450" CreationDate="2017-02-08T01:40:46.497" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So after some research I thought I'd share how we solved this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, one must understand the safety concerns. Removal of the guard is likely required (we didn't have our on) but its possible it could be left on. The largest concern is with kickback. We'll come back to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Objectives&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make a sled that can be used for cutting more than one radius, adjustable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make a sled that can be used for other cross cuts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make it as safe and sturdy as possible&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a one sided sled. That is, it is not extending to both sides of the blade at the same time. As a cross cut sled we can use it on the right side of the blade with the table to cut square ends on longer pieces where we don't care about the cutoff. This is not intended to be used to cut through the middle of a material, only the ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Material for the Sled&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We used some nice White Oak we had to make the strip for the runner to insert into the table saw. A hardwood is definitely suggested. If you have something even harder (hickory, heartwood, etc) go for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We then cut a 3/4&amp;quot; Birch Plywood into a 26&amp;quot; x 36&amp;quot; rectangle (if you have a harder plywood available use that, this was the best available to us.) Being our prototype, we weren't concerned, but we may get something better for future sleds. We used 3/4&amp;quot; to give us extra beef for the next step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Adjustable Radius Slot&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took an idea from some sliding adjustable router compass jigs. We cut a 15 degree dovetailed slot into the plywood, perpendicular with the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We used a router table to do this, but to prevent tearing, we first dadoed a 3/4&amp;quot; wide slot 5/16&amp;quot; deep. Then we used the router to cut the dovetail precisely at the edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, using Oak again, we made a 12&amp;quot; strip to slide into this slot. The dovetail helps secure the strip structurally and then three predrilled countersunk holes with 1/2&amp;quot; screws allow us to move the strip to any distance from the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We then drilled a 1/8 hole and slightly countersunk the backside with a 1/2&amp;quot; forstner to keep the bottom flat. This let us insert a simple roofing nail and keep its head flush with the bottom. This nail is our radius pin. We may modify this in the future, but for now it allows us some customization with its length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M9ZON.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M9ZON.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Radius Slot&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Assembling the Sled&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now we can attach the runner to the plywood sled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On our particular table saw, the runner slot to the right of the blade is closer to the left. This works out to our advantage as we will see in a moment. We measured the distance from the blade to the right runner and then added a 1/4&amp;quot; so we can cut the sled for zero clearance after the runner is attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After attaching it with screws as close to square with the front and back edges as could, we tested how it moved on the slot with the blade down. Now is the time to sand or scrape any extra off until it rides smoothly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next we raised the blade and cut through the sled and checked it to square with the front and back. We were pleased with the results so we moved on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next we added a thick two-by board to the top of the front edge (closest to you with the sled in the right runner still.) The saw naturally pushes materials into this edge. Its good to make it tall enough to hold onto safely as well. Ours was 3 1/2&amp;quot; tall x 1 1/2&amp;quot; thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Run some scrap pieces through the saw to test it for square. There are a few techniques for doing this, but the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.newwoodworker.com/basic/5cut.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;5-cut method&lt;/a&gt; is probably the simplest. Once we are happy with the result we move on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Using the Sled for Radius&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can use our sled as a sled to cut the ends of larger pieces to the right, but we can turn the sled and put it on the left side and now the sled sits securely on the table with the center pin back from the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We were making 2 foot diameter table tops, so we slid the pin rail so the pin was 12&amp;quot; from the blade and then screwed it in. The multiple screws means eventually you may run into holes that interfere with your needed radius setting. But hey! This was a prototype, and new holes could be drilled in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next we found center on our piece and predrilled a 1/8&amp;quot; hole partially into the bottom side (the depth of our pin). We marked a line at 12 1/4&amp;quot; and used a jig saw to cut away all the extra. This is very important for a number of reasons. First, it saves time, but it will also make the cutting process safer as there will be very little material that can grab onto the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We dropped that hole onto our pin and hammered the piece down until it was (almost) all the way down. (Use a block to protect your piece).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5yqVq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5yqVq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Trimmed&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Safely Turning&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see in that photo, we still took the piece stationary through the blade to cut off as much extra as possible. Stay to the left side of the blade to avoid any kicking on the small cutoffs. &lt;strong&gt;Careful sliding back past a running blade, this is a kickback danger!&lt;/strong&gt; You can turn off the blade, but that adds a lot of time for a large piece, so I suggest you lift the whole sled up and over the blade once you are past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the circle is trimmed, move it up until it starts to touch the blade.  You will want to spin the entire piece 360 degrees at this position, only moving a bit further with each full rotation. You can make this even safer by only raising the blade by these small amounts as well. But we kept the blade up and just spun it freehand. &lt;strong&gt;While rotating against the blade, you should never be cutting off more than the kerf of the blade!&lt;/strong&gt; If you start to, back out, and turn that area, or retrim it stationary. Eventually you will have the blade up to the height of the piece and the piece rotating fully without cutting any more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have a perfectly square edged perfect circle now!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4pfP5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4pfP5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;finished&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2017-02-08T01:40:46.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5065" CreationDate="2017-02-08T13:41:14.650" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The power tools are really only useful for putting the initial bevel on the edge or significantly changing the bevel angle.  In my usage they are much more aggressive than you would expect and make any fine sharpening quite difficult (for me at least).  One useful thing about the grinding wheel is that it will give you a hollow grind, making it a lot easier to use a sharpening stone (since the hollowness of the bevel sort of locks it in place at a fixed angle as you run it along the stone -- hard to explain but it makes sense when you feel it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can tell if you would save a lot of time using the grinding wheel by simply examining the bevel.  Look at how the two edges come together to form the cutting edge.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is all bent and broken, or round, then you would save a lot of time by grinding a V shape bevel on.  Or if you want to significantly change the cutting angle (generally the thinner the cutting angle the sharper but also more fragile the cutting edge will be).  Otherwise stick to the stone.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In regards to your tendency to roll the blade: it happens.  Until you get more comfortable always keep the knife at a less aggressive angle than you would expect (since you already know you have the propensity to roll the blade).  Use a sharpie on the bevel as and check it often / reapply as you are using the stone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing you mention was when to move up to the higher grit stones.  Pretty much just check for the burr on the opposite side that you are working with your fingernail.  Until you get a burr keep on the lower grit stones.  Once you get a burr, put sharpie over the entire bevel.  Now move up a grit until all the sharpie is gone.  Repeat for each higher grit, then strop it on leather with compound. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your concave blades I find that it is actually a lot harder than you might think to grind it on a wheel without biting into the edges.  Instead I prefer the crock sticks (Lansky turn box) to sharpen followed by a strop.  Or a drum stick wrapped in 600 grit sandpaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is really not so hard to learn and gives a lot of enjoyment.  But the grinding wheel is a great time saver for grinding out any deep nicks or dings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3135" LastActivityDate="2017-02-08T13:41:14.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5473" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5474" CreationDate="2017-02-08T18:08:56.607" Score="5" ViewCount="6270" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planing to build a picture frame with walnut. Since I am still very new to woodworking, I need boards which are as close as possible to the final dimension. I found a 1 in. x 2 in. x 8 ft. walnut board at Home Depot. This is a S4S board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/p/Builder-s-Choice-1-in-x-2-in-x-8-ft-S4S-Walnut-Board-W16010208X/206201591&quot;&gt;http://www.homedepot.com/p/Builder-s-Choice-1-in-x-2-in-x-8-ft-S4S-Walnut-Board-W16010208X/206201591&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went to Home Depot and their boards are not straight. They have 4 &quot;smooth&quot; surfaces but are almost twisted... I would have expected a S4S board to have 4 smooth surfaces and to be straight. Am I correct? Is there something that can be done to straighten those boards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1607" LastEditorUserId="1607" LastEditDate="2017-02-08T20:47:59.770" LastActivityDate="2017-02-09T01:23:48.073" Title="Why S4S boards sold at Home Depot aren't straight?" Tags="|wood|wood-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5473" CreationDate="2017-02-08T18:25:39.410" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The boards &lt;em&gt;did&lt;/em&gt; have 4 smooth surfaces, all perpendicular to each other, and were straight. That was when they came off the mill, though. Since then, they've been exposed to the elements, shipped to the store, handled, etc and nature has taken its course. Each board is different, which is why they all &quot;acclimate&quot; differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three main solutions &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run the boards you get through a jointer and planer to straighten them as you would rough-sawn stock. This can be with hand or power tools. Generally not a solution for a beginner woodworker though, at least on the power tool side. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spend some time at the store picking out the straightest, flattest, best-looking boards they have - going back multiple times or to different stores if necessary. I spent an hour at the big-box store looking for 1x boards for a project, and only wound up buying 10 or so. I looked at every single 1x3 and 1x4 they had, though.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy bigger boards than you need, but be less picky, and cut off the parts that are twisted, kinked, not flat, etc. Sometimes the majority of a board is great, but there's a big kink 18 inches from one end - just cut off that 18 inches and you're good to go.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, there is a 4th option, which may or may not be applicable, and that is to buy from a hardwood dealer. Many (most?) will mill for you (for an extra charge, of course; one near me charges an extra 50 cents per bf), so you can buy exactly what you need and get it S4S, ripped in half, whatever. Don't let it sit too long, though, or it will likely wind up just as warped as the stuff at the big-box store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ETA: A 1x2x8 is about 1.4bf. Walnut at my local hardwood dealer is $5.00 per bf at the most (I don't remember exact prices), so you're looking at a total price of about $8, even with the milling. Compare that to the $25 that HD wants for the same board!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastEditorUserId="2524" LastEditDate="2017-02-09T01:23:48.073" LastActivityDate="2017-02-09T01:23:48.073" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5475" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-09T02:28:00.707" Score="1" ViewCount="1515" Body="&lt;p&gt;The table doesn't wobble; it flexes in any direction you move it. Any slight contact causes this. I'm not sure if it's because the two legs are way too thin.&#xA; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bHHyV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;overall view&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xm8vj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;underside view&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Merged and cleaned up from additional info originally posted as an answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top is attached to the frame with 6 plastic nails &amp;amp; expanders. The frame is the one that is flexing. The connection between the support frame and the legs is not welded. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R2KhZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;underside view 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f1olp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;underside view 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J1rTj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;underside view 3&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Ewtf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;underside view 4&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2017-03-16T15:22:42.877" LastActivityDate="2017-03-16T15:22:42.877" Title="How can I fix this table? It flexes both side ways and front to back" Tags="|tabletop|stability|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5468" CreationDate="2017-02-09T03:34:25.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first response was &quot;What's chatoyance?&quot;  So like any modern computer user I did a quick Google search.  Nice.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a concise &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/how-to/what-is-chatoyance/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; on the Rockler site that answers my question as well as that of OP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, my question: A term that's borrowed from the gemology world that refers to a cat's eye effect seen in certain stones, frequently quartz.  In wood it refers to to areas of wood where the effects of quickly changing light and dark grain produces a different effect depending on angle of view.  I think that I have seen it most on the backs of music instruments, although &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=chatoyance&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;imgil=gs0AQDuBPLmEtM%253A%253BCf-UR2N5ezmE-M%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.quarter-sawnflooring.com%25252Fchatoyance.html&amp;amp;source=iu&amp;amp;pf=m&amp;amp;fir=gs0AQDuBPLmEtM%253A%252CCf-UR2N5ezmE-M%252C_&amp;amp;usg=__22lDevr13vsEHLHmTfOFi4UKk9I%3D&amp;amp;biw=1537&amp;amp;bih=831&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwijoq20iILSAhWi0YMKHb4rD3IQyjcIiQE&amp;amp;ei=CeGbWOP5HqKjjwS-17yQBw#imgrc=T3zsXQEUJKyHmM:&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;images&lt;/a&gt; from the afore mentioned Google search shows it can pop up in almost any wood project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OP's question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any tips for maximizing the chatoyance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a method of staining where a dark stain is applied and then wiped away.  This should cause any end grain that presents itself to absorb the dark color.  Then a light stain is applied which is allowed to color all of the wood, but should have little effect on the now darkened end grain.  Follow this with varnish or oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon further review I find that good old @Graphus has made two references to chatoyance previously: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4885/is-danish-oil-redundant-to-polyurethane/4888#4888&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3601/what-is-the-difference-between-wiping-polyurethane-and-wiping-varnish/3602#3602&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;. They were not near the top of my Google so I missed them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2017-02-09T23:15:02.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5477" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-09T09:41:29.573" Score="2" ViewCount="4622" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made frames out of mdf and there are quite a few exposed edges. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should I seal the MDF?&#xA;Should I seal only the edges or seal the whole surface?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that these frames are to be used for acoustic panels (sound absorbing) so ideally I'd like to have a non-reflective surface, so nothing too hard and nothing shiny. These panels will be covered in fabric so the surface can't be greasy and I'll never be able to re-treat the wood after covering it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3141" LastEditorUserId="3141" LastEditDate="2017-02-09T09:46:32.010" LastActivityDate="2017-02-09T19:13:17.930" Title="Sealing MDF so it doesn't absorb moisture" Tags="|finishing|mdf|varnish|oiling|moisture|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5478" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-09T14:09:07.087" Score="2" ViewCount="1258" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to create a seamless box from nice wood, which is hollow and has rounded corners. It should be comparable with the clock on the left, but with rounded corners like on the right. It needs to be hollow, to house the electronics, which means that 90% of the inside is empty space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/344D3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Examples&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have any tools or a shop; I need to rent time in a public shop or send it to a CNC manufacturer. Question is: what's the best method if I want it relatively cheap and seamless? CNC?  Bend steamed wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3281" LastActivityDate="2017-02-13T14:59:36.723" Title="Creating a hollow, seamless box; CNC needed?" Tags="|hardwood|cnc|steam-bending|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5478" CreationDate="2017-02-09T14:39:35.540" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;How seamless does this need to be? Cuts along the wood's grain can often be glued back together almost undetectably, if you're careful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bent lamination could be done, but the connection to face and back would not be seamless -- grain wouldn't match. There would also be a grain mismatch seam where the laminate ends meet, unless you are careful and/or lucky, though that could be on the bottom of the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hollowing out a cavity in a solid block doesn't need CNC, just careful work with drills (Forstner and similar bits are good for hogging out most of the waste) and/or chisels. A drill press is useful for controlling drilling depth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rounding corners  is a generally matter of sawing away most of the waste, then refining the curve with rasps, files, sandpaper, scrapers, and the like, unless you go back to considering bent lamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if you plan on &lt;em&gt;painting&lt;/em&gt; this, all the issues with matching grain go away and it becomes a matter of how well you smoothe the glue joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to soften the sharp edges at front and back. Or might not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2017-02-09T14:39:35.540" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5477" CreationDate="2017-02-09T19:13:17.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't actually need to seal the MDF so it doesn't absorb moisture, any more than studwork in walls, the interior components of cabinetry or the framework in covered chairs need to be sealed. Regardless of whether it's solid wood or a type of manmade board the material can be left to absorb and release moisture naturally with any changes in humidity. In any case the whole concept of &quot;sealing&quot; is commonly misunderstood, with only a few exceptions the coatings applied to wood don't truly seal the surface off from water vapour*.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it looks like the natural colour of the MDF won't suit the completed panels so I think you need to paint them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally when someone is looking to paint MDF the recommendations are about how to get the surface looking good since it'll be on show (e.g. filling/sealing the edges, then primer and finally paint, with quite a bit of sanding thrown in there). But here it seems like you really only need to change the colour so you could go straight to paint. Matt black seems like it would be the ideal colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*This is why even a fully varnished tabletop will still expand and contract through the seasons as humidity goes up and down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-02-09T19:13:17.930" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4776" CreationDate="2017-02-09T20:28:20.030" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you though about using a vacuum device?&#xA;Here is one type for small pieces.  I've not used it and can't comment on performance.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B016PCQV7W&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/Axiom-Precision-Vacuum-Hold-Down-Pods/dp/B016PCQV7W&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here is a YouTube video that shows usage of a DIY setup.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0wd-juBzy34&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0wd-juBzy34&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3283" LastActivityDate="2017-02-09T20:28:20.030" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5483" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-02-09T23:39:32.527" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-02-09T23:39:32.527" LastActivityDate="2017-02-09T23:39:32.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5484" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-02-09T23:39:32.527" Score="0" Body="When a power tool successfully causes a piece of wood to be driven counter to the way that the user is intending, unexpectedly, but frequently predictably.  " OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2017-02-10T16:20:42.910" LastActivityDate="2017-02-10T16:20:42.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5485" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5488" CreationDate="2017-02-10T01:30:15.393" Score="5" ViewCount="4027" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to woodworking. I recently completely my first job (a small bookshelf/toybox). After it was all put together, I spent a while sanding it, although it was difficult to get into the corners, and it ended up not very smooth. Since I was going to paint it, I figured that would help smooth it out - but not as much as I wanted, so I ended up sanding more and then repainting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems intuitive that sanding something before assembling it would be considerably easier, yet, all the instructions I see for woodworking have sanding as the second last step (before finishing). Why would I not want to &quot;presand&quot; all the components, when they are more easily accessible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3286" LastActivityDate="2017-02-10T09:17:24.670" Title="&quot;Presanding&quot; wood, before assembly?" Tags="|furniture|sanding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5486" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-02-10T02:14:56.823" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-02-10T02:14:56.823" LastActivityDate="2017-02-10T02:14:56.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5487" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-02-10T02:14:56.823" Score="0" Body="On a table saw, a non-moving extension of the blade that keeps the kerf from squeezing the blade and helps to prevent kick-back" OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2017-02-10T16:21:05.830" LastActivityDate="2017-02-10T16:21:05.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5485" CreationDate="2017-02-10T02:22:40.400" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Prefinishing (and thus presanding) are talked about fairly often as a suggested step to avoid having to apply finish or sand into corners and other tricky areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;General idea is to get everything ready for final assembly and then sand/finish before assembly. (Making sure you don't get finish on areas that need glue). Masking tape for protecting areas is a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think there's probably not a huge deal of talk about it because it's pretty elementary stuff and an obvious good idea that most people stumble across themselves after a few frustrating experiences trying to sand into corners.  Also, assuming you are using cleanly milled lumber, there should be minimal sanding required in most cases so probably a lot of articles gloss over it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, here's an article by Marc Spagnoulo and a FWW podcast with a bit more detail on it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/2016/09/30/stl-121-finishing-tips-favorite-techniques&quot;&gt;http://www.finewoodworking.com/2016/09/30/stl-121-finishing-tips-favorite-techniques&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/pre-finish-strategy/&quot;&gt;http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/pre-finish-strategy/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="282" LastEditorUserId="282" LastEditDate="2017-02-10T02:28:26.560" LastActivityDate="2017-02-10T02:28:26.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5489" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5490" CreationDate="2017-02-10T02:50:14.947" Score="4" ViewCount="1994" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a &quot;live edge&quot; shelf/table, and after I removed the bark, there are several exposed woodworm burrows right under the bark. They are quite deep (3-6mm), so I don't want remove all that wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what's the best way to deal with that: leave it as-is, or fill with something (with what?) and sand flush?.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The finish will be a stain + oil/varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1370" LastActivityDate="2017-02-10T09:15:55.297" Title="How to deal with signs of woodworm in &quot;live edge&quot; wooden slab" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5489" CreationDate="2017-02-10T09:15:55.297" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can leave them for character or fill them as you prefer, it's entirely up to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to fill I'd suggest filled/tinted epoxy as it's cheap and easy to do and can be customised to suit. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3807/large-hole-filler-products-what-is-available/3809#3809&quot;&gt;Large hole filler products, what is available&lt;/a&gt; for more info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt; if you have the least worries about the insects still being active then you should treat the wood with a proprietary insecticide made for this purpose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2017-02-10T09:15:55.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5485" CreationDate="2017-02-10T09:17:24.670" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very related:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1440/at-what-stage-of-basic-furniture-making-should-i-finish-the-wood&quot;&gt;At what stage of basic furniture making should I &amp;quot;finish&amp;quot; the wood?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2813/should-i-finish-before-during-or-after-assembly&quot;&gt;Should I finish before, during, or after assembly?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The second thread was marked as a duplicate of the one above it but its Answers give much further info so well worth reading both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It seems intuitive that sanding something before assembling it would be considerably easier&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, often it &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; much easier to smooth wood before assembly. Ditto finish it as you can see from the above threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;yet, all the instructions I see for woodworking have sanding as the second last step (before finishing). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could be partly due to bad instructions as you're thinking. Sadly there are loads of poor or outright bad how-tos online on any subject you care to name. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could though be partly a case of extrapolating from specific projects and thinking it applies more widely, as actually it's not uncommon to pre-sand certain pieces or some surfaces of individual component prior to using them or installing them, precisely because it is hard (or impossible) to do it after assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As wood is very frequently smoothed and made ready for finish by sanding these days boards prepared for shelving for example are usually sanded prior to assembly, possibly leaving a little touch-up sanding to the end after assembly but sometimes not even that (it is better not to have to if you can manage it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Point of note:&lt;/strong&gt; you don't have to sand to complete the preparation of wood. Often it can be prepared for finish by hand planing or by scraping (usually in less time and always with less dust produced). See &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1134/what-are-the-differences-between-sanding-and-scraping/1159?s=1|1.7874#1159&quot;&gt;What are the differences between sanding and scraping?&lt;/a&gt; for more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2017-02-10T09:17:24.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5492" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5494" CreationDate="2017-02-10T14:04:03.957" Score="6" ViewCount="903" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just came across a plywood joint mechanism, which I found very interesting as new woodworker. Basically I don't know what it is called and can't find any in our local market. I am attaching the photos here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Screw 1&lt;/strong&gt;: This is the screw which goes inside the white bit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H9G0X.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H9G0X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Screw 2&lt;/strong&gt;: This screw is positioned perpendicular to &lt;strong&gt;Screw 1&lt;/strong&gt; through a hole.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W93ZE.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W93ZE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Looks like this when &lt;strong&gt;Screw 1&lt;/strong&gt; is put inside&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X5NXT.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X5NXT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, could anybody tell me :-&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;1. What are the name of the screws.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2. What is the mechanism called.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3033" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2017-02-10T16:07:54.523" LastActivityDate="2017-02-10T16:07:54.523" Title="What is this plywood joining mechanism and hardware for knock-down furniture?" Tags="|joinery|plywood|screws|mdf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5492" CreationDate="2017-02-10T14:17:01.363" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cam bolt and cam screw connector. Very popular in european style cabinetry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/thPSH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/thPSH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/p/Crown-Bolt-15-mm-x-19-mm-Cam-Connector-Zinc-50438/203088336&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.homedepot.com/p/Crown-Bolt-15-mm-x-19-mm-Cam-Connector-Zinc-50438/203088336&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ws6y5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ws6y5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-6-mm-x-45-5-mm-Connecting-Zinc-Bolt-Cam-Screw-818238/204281642&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-6-mm-x-45-5-mm-Connecting-Zinc-Bolt-Cam-Screw-818238/204281642&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2017-02-10T14:17:01.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5496" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-11T04:44:13.550" Score="1" ViewCount="2866" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just installed a fresh 40 tooth blade (I don't remember the new blade brand name) into my table saw. I was cutting some hickory and it was burning so I figured it was time to sharpen/clean. But when I was cutting that same hickory at the same rate and everything else I noticed it struggled to cut. The saw has a 15A motor and has never had this problem before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I mean &lt;em&gt;bog down&lt;/em&gt;; it was dying, I swear. So I stop feeding it and ran back up and fed much, much slower. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stock was only a 1/2&quot; thick. The blade was 3/8&quot; above the wood and I do what I have always done when cutting (which is pretty much how school taught me last year when in wood-shop).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did not see any wobble (or at least more than usual, there was always a small amount but never hurt the performance). So I don't know what is happening but I have to feed pretty darn slow compared to before. It may be the cold, since it is winter and I have a shed without heat, but it always just spun right up and had no issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: if I had to guess on feed rate (And I mean GUESS) I would say hard woods take me 4 seconds for a 1&quot; board without bog (now its like 5-7.... ) and softwoods like 2 seconds for a 1&quot; board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-08-01T17:58:15.457" LastActivityDate="2020-08-22T12:54:25.360" Title="Table saw bogging down more than usual" Tags="|table-saw|cutting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5496" CreationDate="2017-02-11T10:00:13.457" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Test the same blade on some softwood you've cut before as a control. Still bogging down? It's the saw. Rate of cut the same as you're used to? It's the hickory and you just have to live with how slowly it's cutting. No matter how slow the cut &lt;em&gt;feels&lt;/em&gt; you can console yourself with the thought that it is far faster than ripping it by hand with a panel saw!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your TS's motor is probably not that powerful if it's a smaller, relatively affordable model and the hickory might be particularly tough (remember, wood constantly varies) so there may not be a problem, it could just be how slowly &lt;em&gt;this wood&lt;/em&gt; is cutting on &lt;em&gt;this saw&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-02-11T10:00:13.457" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5498" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5500" CreationDate="2017-02-11T15:46:02.893" Score="3" ViewCount="281" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question differs from similar questions about wood warping because I'm not asking how to straighten a warped board nor how to fix an existing design that warped.  Rather I'm asking how do you design at the outset for a large enclosure to come together square and true even if the boards and panels you have available are not straight or flat.  I'm also wanting to know if there is an order of assembly that will maximize accuracy or minimize how much correcting force is needed.  For instance, one strategy might be to lay the largest side flat and build up on it.  An alternate strategy might be to start with a section of the innermost bracing that I &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; make square and true (using the best pieces I have) and build out from that seed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is for a large speaker enclosure approximately 2' wide, 3' deep, and 5' tall, but I think the question could apply to any piece of similar size and construction.  The materials I have are 7/16&quot; OSB panels and 2&quot; x 3&quot; douglas fir studs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(A more usual choice for speaker enclosures would be 3/4&quot; MDF for panels and bracing, but if I can build it with OSB it will save a lot on material cost.  Moreover the size of the speakers is such that you can't get enough stiffness by just using thicker panels; either panel material will still need bracing every 8&quot; or so.  Rest assured I am still using MDF for the actual panel the speaker drivers bolt to, but due to the type of speaker design these MDF panels will be internal walls, not external.  (These internal MDF panels form the &quot;inner box&quot; I was talking about that I can make most accurate in size/shape.))&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to rip some of the 2x3's to make 1.5&quot;x1.25&quot; battens.  I know that if I take two panels that do not lay flat, and join them at 90 degrees with a batten, the joined edge will be straight assuming the panels were cut straight.  I also know that a 2x3 that is warped over a long length is &quot;less&quot; warped if cut into short sections.  So perhaps breaking the battens into sections is a good idea?  However in any case, when building from the skin to the inside, I think there is still the possibility that panels fixed in 2 dimensions will have warping in the 3rd unfixed dimension?  (E.g. they might bow in or balloon out even though the edges meet.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way I've most seen recommended online is build a skeleton or matrix and attach panels to it.  In this method, keeping the 2x3's in long sections would ease construction and assembly, but I'd be worried about getting to the end and discovering an irreconcilable difference in shape between the skeleton and the skin.  Not to mention differences in expansion, and resonance in the long boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also thought about making a large number of &quot;pre-fab&quot; pieces to use to assemble the enclosure like Lego bricks.  These would be C-shaped and rectangle-shaped biscuit joined studs with OSB triangles nailed and glued on top of the corners.  I am not sure, however, whether these would take too long to construct, and also worry about building them to a designed size and finding out the actual size needed is different during assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to recap:  how do I make a straight object out of wood that is not straight?  Should I start assembly with the longest edges / largest panels or smaller parts first?  Is it better to break the design up into an assemblage of short pieces joined together, or to frame it with some of the straightest studs to make a basis for the shape?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3290" LastActivityDate="2018-05-23T15:11:11.910" Title="How can I design a large speaker cabinet to come together square and true when my panels aren't flat and my boards aren't straight?" Tags="|wood-movement|cabinetry|warp|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5498" CreationDate="2017-02-11T16:37:28.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not do it. You talk of making it into lots of these squares and re-gluing them together. Which could make sense but the pieces will stall have warp to them. So it will be bumpy and I can't explain but it can't be good. And what if they warp further yet? All that for nothing. But I will say, even though the warping could be done you could do that. But I would still plane them and square the board either way. There is no real way of getting around this as I am aware. The best and easiest would just to be to get some new panels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing my dad did say one time that he would get the MDF wet, (If I remember the material you are using is similar) and put a flat object on top and it would re-warp or shape to that flat surface. Never did it and can't say I recommend it. Also it is best to use MDF. It brings the best sound quality and blah blah blah. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2017-02-11T16:37:28.513" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5498" CreationDate="2017-02-12T02:08:19.300" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my view this is a question of &quot;Do I control my materials or do they control me&quot;. Your concern that your warped pieces may not meet well is valid. Every project should begin with a plan for what you intend to achieve and then constructed accordingly.  Your idea in the fourth paragraph is a good strategy.  Begin by assembling the framework for your boxes and then cut and fit the skin to apply to it and meet the edges accordingly.  If the sheeting is a bit warped it should be possible to flatten it when securing it firmly to the batten frame.  If the sheathing is too warped then discard it and use sheets that will fit correctly.  Trying to use materials that are not flat enough to maintain the planes of the exterior surfaces is asking for headaches and future problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2017-02-12T02:08:19.300" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5501" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-12T16:00:19.797" Score="2" ViewCount="2487" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ive seen cutting boards with metal handles installed  from the side faces that don't appear to have any outside facing screw holes.. how the heck are they doing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3294" LastActivityDate="2017-02-13T16:11:46.853" Title="technique for side handles on cutting board" Tags="|technique|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5478" CreationDate="2017-02-13T14:59:36.723" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question is about getting a seamless box, not perfect holes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most electronic inserts don't have that precision so even if you made the Perfect Box the electronics inside might be 0.1 mm to the side and the more perfect your box is the more visible the error is.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;That is why most protruding things (the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nixie_tube&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;nixie tubes&lt;/a&gt; in your illustration) come with a collar to put on the outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given your electronics protrusions have collars:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Get a piece or two of wood, a couple of chisels, something to sharpen them, something &lt;a href=&quot;http://webshop.sjobergs.se/product_info.php?products_id=1312&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;like a vice&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blackanddecker.com/products/power-tools/project-solutions/workbenches/workmate-p425-portable-project-center-and-vise/wm425&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bench&lt;/a&gt; to hold the work piece steady, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drill_bit#Forstner_bits&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;forstner bits&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Start with a cheap piece of wood and start playing. When you believe you have gotten the grasp of it get the other, presumably more expensive, piece of wood and whack away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either you succeed. Or you learn.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Either way you will have learned if you need a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mallet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mallet&lt;/a&gt; made of unicorns and rainbows or if a simple piece of wood will do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastActivityDate="2017-02-13T14:59:36.723" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5501" CreationDate="2017-02-13T15:31:34.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see two possible methods for mounting these handles.  The first is to use a cross dowel nut and threaded rods mounted from a hole on the underside of the cutting board.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CVhIl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CVhIl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cross dowel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second is to use hanger bolts set into the cutting board in oversized drilled openings using epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nopH0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nopH0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hanger bolt&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2017-02-13T15:31:34.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5501" CreationDate="2017-02-13T16:11:46.853" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the board linked to in the Comments above I'd say that style of handle is almost certainly glued in place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could pin then, with a piece of steel or brass rod (similar to how some knife handles are held in place), but with the right adhesive that sort of mechanical fixing is not at all necessary on anything that doesn't have to take much strain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best glues to use here I think would be epoxy (especially useful if the fit of the metal in the holes is a little sloppy) and polyurethane adhesive, like the original Gorilla Glue. Note that despite polyurethane adhesive foaming up and appearing to fill gaps it is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; a gap-filling glue, and is only suitable here if the rods are a tight fit in the holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted the handles to be removable for some reason (I can't think why) you can fix something like this in place with what are called grub screws, but they would be plainly visible on the underside if they were used and if made from steel there would be the potential for them to rust, even if zinc plated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-02-13T16:11:46.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5505" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5515" CreationDate="2017-02-13T18:30:18.177" Score="2" ViewCount="2081" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am towards the end of finishing a bench that has paduak.  The wood (I found out after the fact) is quite oily and so the finish takes forever to dry.  It also turns out that it loses its red color over time, so I won't be purchasing it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I waited on the finish for a couple of days and it finally hardened (total of about 4-5 coats of arm-r-seal gloss rubbed on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Afterwards to prepare for the final coats I wet sanded the finish with 600 grit and soapy water.  Unfortunately the slurry has settled into the wood pores.  It appears very white when the piece is dry.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried using mineral spirits to get it out.  It looks fine with the mineral spirits on, but once it dries the white shows back up in the pores.  This gives me hope that maybe if not completely cleaned out, it will not be so visible with a layer of finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone got any experience that can chime in?  Thanks, john&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3135" LastActivityDate="2017-06-16T03:52:55.513" Title="Getting sanded poly slurry out of wood grains" Tags="|finishing|sanding|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5505" CreationDate="2017-02-13T22:12:39.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well I got impatient and just put on another layer of the arm-r-seal about 3 hours ago.  It filled in the holes and made the white poly-slurry filling the pores invisible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tried (beforehand) vacuuming out the white powder but was unsuccessful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would still be interested in what methods others use for this situation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks, John&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3135" LastActivityDate="2017-02-13T22:12:39.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5505" CreationDate="2017-02-13T22:30:43.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Traditionally &quot;tack cloth&quot; is used between finishing coats to remove any dust from previous sanding or from the atmosphere.  Basically it's a cheesecloth with a mild adhesive on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has fallen out of favor in recent years due to the risk of the adhesive contaminating subsequent coats of finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2017-02-13T22:30:43.830" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5508" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-13T23:53:42.520" Score="4" ViewCount="2288" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read many times that you should avoid climb cutting at all costs on a router table. The router bit can grab the wood and pull it from your hands and possibly sending your digits right into the bit (NPI). The same article say that climb cutting using a handheld router is not as dangerous and even encouraged to for getting a chip free surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is it about the router that makes it more dangeous upside down than right side up?  If anything, a kickback on a hand held router should be more catasfrophic as the tool can be thrown from your hands and take a nice bite off your navel before landing on the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="806" LastEditorUserId="806" LastEditDate="2023-06-09T21:52:37.953" LastActivityDate="2023-06-09T21:52:37.953" Title="Why is hand held routing less prone to kickbacks than routing on a router table?" Tags="|router|router-table|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5509" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-14T00:27:39.020" Score="4" ViewCount="5534" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found someone used the recycling skateboard for making great creations. So just what kind of oil or paint I can use for dyeing on hardwood &lt;strong&gt;inside&lt;/strong&gt; deeply(for laminating)!? Not just coated on the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IU40u.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IU40u.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;An ax with a wooden handle. The handle appears to be composed of strips of differently-colored wood&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2578" LastEditorUserId="2578" LastEditDate="2017-02-14T14:56:15.113" LastActivityDate="2017-02-14T14:56:15.113" Title="How can I dye my hardwood inside deeply so I can laminate something like this?" Tags="|hardwood|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5509" CreationDate="2017-02-14T00:37:57.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well that is not dyed hardwood, it is laminated (layered) pieces of wood which are brightly colored individually then glued together.  Afterwards you sand or plane the surface and get the contrast like that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also buy blocks which are already brightly colored.  I think usually people will turn them.  Sometimes they put layers of acrylic in as well to add more bold colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3135" LastActivityDate="2017-02-14T00:37:57.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5508" CreationDate="2017-02-14T00:40:48.017" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kickback can definitely happen with a handheld router.  It's important to use the correct feed direction (typically moving the router from left to right) to prevent it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two reasons I can think of why it might be called out more in a router table than with a handheld router:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can take off more material and use a bigger bit with a router table.  Both of these will increase the force of the kickback.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you use a router table fence like a tablesaw fence (i.e. pinching the workpiece between the fence and the bit) you are at an extreme risk for kickback.  The corollary situation for a handheld router (cutting only the far edge with an edge guide) is also dangerous, but isn't as tempting because it's tougher to setup.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2017-02-14T00:47:30.960" LastActivityDate="2017-02-14T00:47:30.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5509" CreationDate="2017-02-14T00:49:50.260" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The handle in your photo is laminated, each colored strip was individually dyed before the lamination process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's been 40 years since I dyed wood but the process worked well. I made my own purfling and binding for my guitars. I believe the dyes I used analine dyes in  powder form that dissolves in water. The other thing I did was to soak overnight in very hot water. I had a galvinized trough that I used for this. The wood I used for this was maple, birch would be good as well. You want a wood without open pores. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be a messy process, especially if you want several colors. You might also check to see whether what you want is commercially available. One place to look are luthier suppliers such as LMI and StewMac.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2762" LastEditorUserId="2762" LastEditDate="2017-02-14T01:26:08.447" LastActivityDate="2017-02-14T01:26:08.447" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5509" CreationDate="2017-02-14T01:55:05.823" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wood dyes can be very expensive or very reasonable. Check out suppliers such Transfast wood dyes which come in a powdered form and can be tinted darker by adding more dye to the liquid base.  You can use water but that will often raise the grain. I use rubbing alcohol from the big box which does not affect the grain.  It goes on fairly evenly, dries fast and does not raise the grain.  Other answers point out that your example uses veneer layers which are thin and can absorb the dye through the entire depth of the layer.  IF you use thicker pieces, the dye will not penetrate all the way through.  You may have to run a few experiments including rubbing on the dye and fully soaking the wood to find out the best technique for full color penetration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2017-02-14T01:55:05.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5508" CreationDate="2017-02-14T09:26:31.593" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good Answer already from @SaSSafraS1232 but I wanted to address some additional points you raised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If anything, a kickback on a router should be more catasfrophic as the tool can be thrown from your hand and take a nice bite off your navel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compared to routing a length of wood a router will generally have greater mass. And with routers where there's a notable risk of a dangerous kick (i.e. powerful enough) you have two hands on it, gripping handles specifically intended for controlling its movement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So together, if thrown the router will tend to go less far, less quickly, compared to a piece of wood snatched from your grip. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do a mime of how you would typically feed wood past the bit in a router table.... see how not under control the wood is compared to a router being gripped and controlled with care and attention? Also notice that one or both of your hands is near the level of the spinning bit, rather than much more safely positioned up on the handles of the router itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is of course especially hazardous as most router tables don't have a safety guard (as they should)!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the same articles, climb cutting usung a hand held router is not as dangerous and even encouraged to get a good edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it should be highlighted that climb-cutting is not the only way to get a really good edge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMO it's also something you shouldn't do without a full understanding of the motions involved and the potential risk, &lt;em&gt;so if in doubt don't do it&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other ways to ensure a superior cut surface, none of which involve increased risk to the user, or to the workpiece, (e.g. clean, sharp bit and taking a final 'skimming' pass to remove a very small amount of wood).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-02-14T09:26:31.593" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5505" CreationDate="2017-02-14T10:18:43.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The white residue is abraded varnish, settled in the low spots. Ideally this should be rinsed or wiped away as the final stage in the wet-sanding before moving on to the next step. A damp microfibre cloth is an excellent tool for doing this, but just flushing the surface with water and any cloth will get rid of it, just as everyone had to do before microfibres came along :-) I've even seen some finishers using their hand as a type of squeegee when wiping the surface down, although I'm not convinced this is better than using a cloth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have tried using mineral spirits to get it out. It looks fine with the mineral spirits on, but once it dries the white shows back up in the pores. &lt;strong&gt;This gives me hope that maybe if not completely cleaned out, it will not be so visible with a layer of finish.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes exactly so. When you apply varnish this is said to wet the surface and the effect as you've now seen is permanent. This is much the same as the difference between bare sanded wood, which looks pale and dry, and the richer colouring once the first coat of any finish goes on, wetting the surface fibres. Note that the wood is still said to be 'wet' by the finish after it has dried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some addition points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do all your sanding in one go&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can do all of your sanding at the end, so rather than sanding to prepare the surface for the final coats as you've referred to you are smoothing off and perfecting (&quot;flatting off&quot;) the surface of the varnish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanding between coats isn't necessary unless you're removing dust nibs or other defects — on most finishes it is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; needed to ensure bonding between one coat and the next. All excessive sanding between coats is doing is removing finish you don't need to remove and slowing down the whole process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bit more on this here:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1420/leveling-a-finish-finishing-the-finish/1421#1421&quot;&gt;Leveling a finish/finishing the finish&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Grain fill/pore fill&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can fill the wood prior to applying the final finish to minimise the potential for this problem. If the wood's surface is very flat and smooth to begin with you won't easily have any low spots that can harbour sanding residue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With varnish, which can have a very substantial body so it builds thickness well, you can fill grain using the finish itself (often done by luthiers for example, usually with shellac in that case but the same principle applies with most film finishes). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to sort of do both things at once, by sanding in the first coat of varnish. This creates a slurry of wood dust and varnish, which is an excellent grain filler and of course you have no worries about any compatibility issues between the fill material and your final finish since they share the same binder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2017-02-14T10:18:43.850" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5509" CreationDate="2017-02-14T11:43:52.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are sources where you can buy them pre-dyed which would probably be at least worth looking into as a reference point, if not eliminate the need to dye them yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dyed-veneer.com/dyed_veneers.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dyed-Veneers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodcraft.com/products/dyed-primary-colors-of-veneer-3-sq-foot-pack?gclid=CI30k_nAj9ICFYM9gQodaeAATg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Woodcraft&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastActivityDate="2017-02-14T11:43:52.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5517" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-14T12:54:17.850" Score="1" ViewCount="278" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can angle grinder be used as motor for scoring blade? What I have found so far the rotation speed should be pretty similar and regular scoring blade can be probably also fitted on the grinder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2300" LastActivityDate="2017-02-14T12:54:17.850" Title="Home made table saw + home made scoring blade" Tags="|table-saw|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5518" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5520" CreationDate="2017-02-14T21:30:43.687" Score="15" ViewCount="5902" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apologies if this is off topic. I realize it's only tangentially-related to woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my 12' x 16' workshop, I have a lot of lumber, projects in mid-construction, tools, a computer and accessories, chemicals (fiberglass resin is probably the nastiest one), and a ton of electrical outlets. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What sort of fire extinguisher should I get that, if used in this small space, won't destroy everything? I try to keep things clean, but there's inevitably sawdust and what-not on the floor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wholeheartedly agree with the &quot;get out and stay out&quot; comments: sticking around to try and put out a significant fire to save some tools and equipment is not smart. However, when you're dealing with something small that has either just started, or clearly will - smoldering in a pile of scrap or sawdust or instance - it would be nice to have an extinguisher to at least &lt;em&gt;try&lt;/em&gt; and put it out before things get out of control, rather than throwing the baby out with the bathwater, so to speak. I have kids - I'll err on the side of getting to build a new shop rather than using up my life insurance to save a PC and a bunch of saws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3096" LastEditorUserId="3096" LastEditDate="2017-02-15T14:24:15.857" LastActivityDate="2017-02-16T12:03:01.903" Title="What kind of fire extinguisher should I have in the shop?" Tags="|safety|shop|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5518" CreationDate="2017-02-14T22:19:20.203" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're probably OK with a typical 'multi-purpose' type ABC extinguisher, as that will handle most of the fires you would see in a typical woodshop. You could probably get away with just a type A (for burning solids), but type ABC are so ubiquitous that it may be more expensive for the single purpose extinguisher. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;if used in this small space, won't destroy everything?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I kind of question this mentality, though. Yes, fire extinguishers are for dealing with small fires before they get out of hand and you want to limit damage from the extinguisher itself, but the primary goal of a fire extinguisher should be to extinguish the fire. Damage to surroundings is a secondary concern, since if the fire is not controlled, there will be (much) more damage to your lumber, projects, shop, and any attached or nearby structures like a house. Put out the fire first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastActivityDate="2017-02-14T22:19:20.203" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5518" CreationDate="2017-02-14T23:17:31.453" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are certainly oils and other flammable liquids, plus possible electrical malfunction, so I would indeed suggest an ABC, preferably a larger one. Remember that you always aim an extinguisher at the &lt;em&gt;base&lt;/em&gt; of a fire, not at the flames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it's important to note: Unless the fire is one you are &lt;em&gt;sure&lt;/em&gt; you can put out quickly and easily, the most important role for a fire extinguisher may be to help you get to safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things are replaceable. You aren't. In case of fire, save people first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you are asking this question: Do you have a first aid kit in the shop, openable with one hand, preferably where you can reach it even if you can't stand up? Ditto for phone? Are you keeping volatiles tightly sealed and preferably in a metal cabinet where a fire would have some chance of smothering itself? Are you keeping the workshop clear of sawdust, tripping hazards, and the like? Do you have an air filter and dust collection if you are producing sawdust, ventilation if you are producing fumes? Fire may not be the biggest hazard!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2017-02-14T23:17:31.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5521" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-15T00:41:34.073" Score="1" ViewCount="355" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a small dovetail jig my teacher has that he showed the class and I thought it was neat and want to make it. Here is the video I think he got it from. Because it is very much the same thing, but without the magnets. Here is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8XYg8V_1dg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;VIDEO&lt;/a&gt;. It is very self explained as to how it is built. But I miss on how you use the thing. The teacher did not show us, I am sure I can figure it out but if one of you know how to use it and explain that would be great! That really sums that part up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing was, what does the angles have to do with dovetails? There are 7* and 14* and whatever else. Is it just looks, or is there a greater strength with on over the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2017-02-15T11:20:19.957" Title="Simple Dovetail jig" Tags="|dovetail|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5522" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5524" CreationDate="2017-02-15T05:52:41.777" Score="5" ViewCount="2449" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering what alternatives there are to a spindle sander or hand sanding when it comes to sanding concave curves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen artificial spindle sanders created using a drill press/drill, but was wondering if there were any better or different options I am not thinking of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2271" LastActivityDate="2018-08-18T20:19:13.680" Title="Alternatives to a spindle sander" Tags="|sanding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5518" CreationDate="2017-02-15T08:21:25.117" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Blowing ash around with a CO2 extinguisher will make everything in the room dirty but most things can be cleaned of ash. That would be good for electricals. For wood, water or foam would be better (half a large CO2 extinguisher does very little for smouldering wood that can be dealt with by a cup of water). Powder is supposed to spread all round the room as well and is harder to get rid of; most types are corrosive to metals. Foam beats water as you've got flammable liquids. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An interesting new option is water mist (ABCF): the fine droplets do not cause flammable liquids to splash or float, and the gaps between drops mean that they're rated to 1000V if you're at least a metre away. I've never seen one in use though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More important than an extinguisher is keeping your way out clear at all times. Being able to kill the power (emergency stop switch) so you can use water on a wood+tool fire seems like a good idea and would also serve in other emergencies. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2017-02-16T12:03:01.903" LastActivityDate="2017-02-16T12:03:01.903" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5522" CreationDate="2017-02-15T10:24:38.537" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The drill-based ones are the main alternative to the commercial spindle sander. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/trFdT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/trFdT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Drill-based drum sanders&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They can work very well, despite the usual objection raised by someone that the bearings on drills aren't built to take sideways forces. While that is presumably true enough it doesn't appear to be an issue in practice for most people with most drills, including hand-held drills as opposed to drill presses/bench drills, even when a bottom bearing of some sort is not incorporated*.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;was wondering if there were any better or different options I am not thinking of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sand by hand&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You mentioned sanding by hand and while it's not the ideal method it is an option, particularly if you only have a modest amount to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the main tricks to doing this efficiently is not to start with too fine a paper — if you're still shaping the curve you're only shooting yourself in the foot by starting with 180 grit..... or 240 as I read someone doing just the other day! When shaping you should be using something like 80 grit to start with, then 100, 150 and then finish at 180 or 220.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another trick is to use shaped sanding 'blocks', if necessary fitted with a fence of sorts to help ensure the edge is square to the face of the board. The simplest block for sanding inside curves is a piece of dowel with the sandpaper just wrapped around it, and this can work surprisingly well. Remember to finish the sanding in the direction of the grain!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanding by hand is of course hard work but if it's the only method open to someone it shouldn't be discounted, it can and does work. But there are better ways.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't sand&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Compass plane&lt;/strong&gt; This is obviously a pretty specialised plane and they can be costly, but if you do enough work to warrant one they'll be worth the outlay. Obviously because of their size and shape they can only do certain tasks, but they do excel at it when they can be used for the purpose. &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1772/what-is-the-old-school-way-of-smoothing-a-curved-surface/1775#1775&quot;&gt;A little more in a previous Answer.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spokeshave&lt;/strong&gt; With a very sharp edge, practice in controlling the tool and experience in reading grain you can do a lot of your curved edges, concave and convex, using spokeshaves. This includes shaping, so potentially no need to saw the profile first, and finish-ready surfaces are possible straight from the spokeshave just as with a plane, although they're harder to achieve (more user control required, plus most spokeshaves have a greater tendency towards tearout because they have wide mouths and no means to alter this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Files&lt;/strong&gt; Files offer a very useful alternative for many shaping tasks, and doing curved edges is one of them. Much rough shaping and quite a bit of the smoothing can be done using a selection of files, leaving just a minimal amount of sanding or scraping to finish off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using files it can be worth doing something similar to when sanding — filing in the direction of the grain. With files this is often done with the file held at 90° to the direction of motion (referred to as &lt;em&gt;draw filing&lt;/em&gt;) and this can sometimes leave the smoothest surface the file is capable of producing. But the technique does tend to work best of harder materials than wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scraper&lt;/strong&gt; You an scrape edges just as you can scrape face grain on boards, and the results can be just as good. &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1134/what-are-the-differences-between-sanding-and-scraping/1159#1159&quot;&gt;Lots more on scraping versus sanding in a previous Answer.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*It's worth noting that sanding drums, wire brushes and other things intended to be chucked into hand power drills have been around since &lt;em&gt;before the 1950s&lt;/em&gt;, so there is tons of practical evidence that drills can withstand this type of use. But, cheaper modern drills won't be built to the same standards of the past so proceed with caution and as always don't press hard, let the abrasive do the work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2017-02-15T10:24:38.537" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5518" CreationDate="2017-02-15T11:14:14.137" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alternative answer:  Don't get a fire extinguisher at all.  They are only any good for tackling something the size of a wastepaper basket fire.  It is far too easy to think &quot;I can deal with this&quot;.  The right way to tackle a fire is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stay out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Call the big red truck out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Source: I mishandled a fire from a toaster that caught light, and ended up spending the night in hospital under observation.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1646" LastActivityDate="2017-02-15T11:14:14.137" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5521" CreationDate="2017-02-15T11:20:19.957" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The normal versions of this tool are simply marking aids (see page 34 of Charles Hawyard's &lt;strong&gt;How to Make Woodwork Tools&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://toolemera.com/bkpdf/haywardhowtobk.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; on Toolemera for the classic example of this type). They've always been user-made apparently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're used simply by laying over the edge of the workpiece you'll be cutting your tails or pins on (either one can be cut first) and then you mark your dovetail angles on the face of the board. Note that this is a wooden tool so it is for pencil marking only, use with a knife or scriber will all too quickly wear the edge and render it inaccurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the version in the video has magnets it's intended as a sawing guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;But I miss on how you use the thing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see Adrian Preda testing the tool out at 4:16 ^_^&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The other thing was, what does the angles have to do with dovetails? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mainly specific angles are for different wood types (the major separation is often said to be between softwoods and hardwoods, but really it's between soft wood and hard wood more than between the two kinds of wood). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there are also aesthetic considerations when it comes to dovetail angles. Sometimes you can simply choose the angle that you like and pay no heed to whether this is supposed to be a suitable angle for the species of wood you're working with*. Just as with the size, and spacing, of dovetails user preferences trump &lt;em&gt;should-do&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;must-do&lt;/em&gt;. This isn't a modern thing, where we're going against tradition for the sake of modernity, many many old dovetails violate 'the rules' and the fact that they're still around for us to point at and go &quot;Look at what they got away with!&quot; shows this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Remember that the dovetails are only a part of the way the joint holds together, the glue locks it firmly together and prevents any movement. Compare to a finger or comb joint for example, where there is no dovetail shape advantage and yet the corners hold together just fine because the glue is doing most of the work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dovetails are partly for when the glue fails, the thing will still hold together, but there is no absolute reason to build joints with that consideration (same reason all tenons aren't wedged).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-02-15T11:20:19.957" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5527" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-15T20:29:14.830" Score="1" ViewCount="1916" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know how many boards I need and their dimensions. Is there some sort of calculator that can tell me how many long boards to buy so that I lower the cost? For example, I need 2 60&quot; 2x4's and I also need 2 20&quot; 2x4's. You might just buy 2 96&quot; boards and get your cut out of that but it might be cheaper to buy 1 16' 2x4 and get it all out of that. I'm looking for a calculator that has that kind of algorithm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3309" LastActivityDate="2021-03-22T19:05:25.790" Title="Lumber Calculator" Tags="|lumber|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5527" CreationDate="2017-02-15T20:57:29.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might be able to do this for dimensional lumber (i.e., your standard 1x and 2x material), since there are several &quot;standard&quot; lengths - 6', 8', and 10' being the most common*, with 12' and 16' being fairly widely available, in the US at least. My local hardwood dealer carries some 7' and 9' pre-milled boards, though, so maybe there aren't any standards... It will also work for plywood since those sheets are standard sizes (4'x8', 5'x5' typically). It is not likely to be available for rough cut lumber because the only standard dimension there is thickness (4/4, 6/4, 8/4, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/q/3194/2524&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/q/5209/2524&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;, though, a lot of people tend to make their own cut lists / layouts because the products that do exist aren't very good, or don't produce layouts which minimize waste. Throw cost into the equation, too, and that adds a whole layer of complexity that most programs don't even try to tackle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is to get Sketchup (available for free) or a similar piece of software, or break out the good 'ol graph paper, and try several different layouts yourself. You know what sizes your local store carries and so you can come up with a couple different layouts for the typical lengths available in your area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Given that you said 2x4, I assume you're buying from the big box stores and not buying from a specialized (hard)wood shop. Those are the typical sizes at my local big box stores; YMMV of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2017-02-15T20:57:29.187" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5527" CreationDate="2017-02-15T21:11:38.390" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question is inherently too subjective for any single calculator. There are whole industries dedicated to this, and even then the software must be constantly amended, and customized to each company's specific use and needs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Longer material may be cheaper, but that depends heavily on the choice of material, and ability to source the species in those lengths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that you must make transportation and tooling constraints. You may not be able to transport a 16' board at all, even if it would be cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The woodworking software industry is about as fragmented as any, and as a result there are a lot of optimization programs out there that vary across a very wide spectrum, and very rarely are the cheap or free ones very useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with this, a very high percentage still does things the old fashioned way, cut-listing by hand, or using Excel or some other generic program.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastActivityDate="2017-02-15T21:11:38.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5530" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5532" CreationDate="2017-02-15T22:10:15.890" Score="1" ViewCount="1187" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do metalworking in addition to woodworking (as a hobbyist in both cases).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I was sharpening my chisels, I was thinking I would like it if the edges held up a bit longer. Reflecting on that a bit more I wondered if I could braze a tip of high-speed steel (HSS) onto one of my chisels and whether that would hold its edge longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, of course, it occurred to me unlikely that I was the first person to think of this and wondered if such a thing existed and if not, why not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would something like this work and is it something one can find commercially?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2017-02-17T13:46:57.930" Title="Is there such a thing as a woodworking chisel with a high-speed steel tip?" Tags="|sharpening|chisel|materials|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5530" CreationDate="2017-02-15T22:25:58.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most turning tools use high speed steel.  This is so that they can be sharpened with a normal grinder instead of bench stones or a wet grinder.  They typically do not hold an edge as long as a good quality tool steel would.  The idea being that the ease of sharpening makes more frequent resharpening easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it does seem that some Japanese chisels use high speed steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I just realized that I didn't address the specific question of a hss tip attached to a tool made of another types of steel.  I don't know of anything that does this specifically, as it's easy enough to just make the whole thing out of hss.  Some Japanese chisels and plane blades do use a tip made from a harder steel.  There is also the similar obvious example of carbide tips on saw blades or router bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2017-02-15T23:17:20.573" LastActivityDate="2017-02-15T23:17:20.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5530" CreationDate="2017-02-16T09:30:41.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there such a thing as a woodworking chisel with a high-speed steel tip?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think so, but you won't easily find any. If I'm remembering correctly these were offered in the past by a few makers in the early or mid-20th century. A few years ago a British company offered bench chisels with &lt;em&gt;replaceable&lt;/em&gt; HSS tips, rather than having an HSS piece welded to a common steel body. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are all-HSS turning chisels of course but they're not easily adaptable to use as bench chisels, and tend to be very expensive too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I wondered if I could braze a tip of high-speed steel (HSS) onto one of my chisels and whether that would hold its edge longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You sure could and yes, it would hold its edge far longer than most bench chisels*. But you might not want them because of the difficulty in sharpening HSS. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is both in sharpening them period (HSS is very tough and hard to abrade) and much more critically for a chisel, getting them &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; sharp. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many users report that they find it hard or impossible to get an edge as good on HSS as on more prosaic steels and this is a critical factor arguing against the material for bench chisels IMO because chisels have to be sharper than plane irons in order to work as well as they should. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As I was sharpening my chisels, I was thinking I would like it if the edges held up a bit longer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lots of people would too :-) The obvious thought is to buy better chisels, but there are some other options that are worth exploring that will save $$ or $$$:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strop the edge regularly (so you have to do proper honing less often). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Improve the heat treat on your current chisels so that they're harder than they came from the factory.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I've written wrote about in a couple of previous Answers (including &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3670/bench-grinder-tool-sharpener-or-sharpening-stone/3701#3701&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;), stropping can stretch the interval between re-sharpenings from hours to days, weeks to months, depending on the quality of your chisels, the woods you're working with and the amount you use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Redoing the heat treatment on a chisel sounds like something you need specialist equipment and loads of experience to do but actually just one torch and a cup of oil or water is all you need at minimum. And you won't even have to remove the handles in most cases, although this can be used as an opportunity to replace the (often &lt;em&gt;meh&lt;/em&gt;) factory handles with something you made yourself so that length, diameter, shape, finish and/or colour are all exactly as you prefer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Couldn't say how they'd compare to some of the high-end chisels made from modern exotic alloys which far outstrip the edge-retention of most common chisels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2017-02-16T09:30:41.867" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5533" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-16T19:25:00.690" Score="5" ViewCount="2569" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just finished putting together a shooting board and have noticed that none of my hand planes have sides which are square to the sole (Stanley/Bailey #4 w/ corrugated sole, #5 1/4, #6, Wood river low angle block plane, Stanley sweetheart dual rabbet plane, Simmons #6--longer than Stanley/Bailey #5 but smaller than #6).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which of these planes would be best for a shooting board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some trick to grinding the edges square to the sole?  Maybe like clamping a square to the sole to angle the edge properly?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Squaring the edges sounds like something I would only want to do once in my entire life so if anyone has any tips to help please let me know&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3135" LastActivityDate="2017-02-17T09:32:17.213" Title="getting edge of plane square to sole for shooting" Tags="|hand-tools|plane|hand-planing|miter-joint|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5533" CreationDate="2017-02-16T19:31:03.833" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A side flat enough that it doesn't rock is all that is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The squareness of the edge produced is determined by the (adjustable) angle the blade edge forms with the side. The angle of the sole, as long as it's reasonably close (a couple degrees maybe) is not a principal factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you can lay the plane on its side on a flat surface, and then just adjust the blade to where &lt;em&gt;its edge&lt;/em&gt; is square and that will give you a square edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Added:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide you &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; get the side square, one approach is to place a square (as in 90 degrees) surface next a sheet of abrasive paper, and hold the sole flat against the reference surface while rubbing the side on the abrasive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a metalworking operation, and one might typically use an angle plate as the reference surface. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Angle_plate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Angle_plate&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1x0Al.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1x0Al.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lacking one of those, you would have to find the best 90 degree reference you can. Both the reference and the abrasive should be placed on a very flat surface, such as a piece of plate glass or perhaps granite tile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This procedure may take quite a bit of time and elbow grease. I would start with a coarse grit, say 80, maybe 40 if there were a long way to go. After a few strokes, you'll be able to tell from the extent of the scratch pattern just how far out it is. You can progress to finer grits as you approach flat, or maybe not care much about the surface finish since it will only be used for shooting. It may actually work better if it has coarse scratches in it, as long as the very surface is smooth enough to slide without binding; some scratches may serve to hold more candle wax and make it slide more easily for longer between wax applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Others may know of alternate methods, but this one will work if you have the patience for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastEditorUserId="2779" LastEditDate="2017-02-17T07:17:15.643" LastActivityDate="2017-02-17T07:17:15.643" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5533" CreationDate="2017-02-17T01:17:07.517" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Scanny is right. Just make sure that your off square  variance is not more than the adjustment capabilities of your plane. My stanley 4 only gives a few mm on each side. ..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2527" LastActivityDate="2017-02-17T01:17:07.517" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5536" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-17T01:28:19.407" Score="1" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was using the 1/4 sheet sander the other day when the motor was getting funny. This started about 4 months ago and got worse. What happens is the motor does not start up to full speed. After some time running it would kick up and run like it is supposed to, but this did not last because it went back to a slow speed. This is a fairly old sander, but am not sure for this was handed down to me from great grandma. It has not been sitting outside or anything so I do not think the dry, cold weather had anything with it. But maybe in the summer because humidity is about 75% around here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So with that said, do I need to get rid of this tool before something dangerous happens (like would it start on fire?) If it is not the motor, how else can I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: Well my sander died already. I could not get to the brushes since they where inside the sander. But since it was dead I looked. The brushes were fine but they snapped out of place it appeared. Otherwise I couldn't see a problem with it. But it is not worth trying to fix this one. The brand is Skil. Model I do not know, the sticker wasn't there. I have another old sander so it should be good for a while. When it's dead, I will move to a Ryobi cordless sander. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2018-10-26T06:15:38.043" LastActivityDate="2018-10-26T06:15:38.043" Title="Is my 1/4 sheet palm sander going to die?" Tags="|sander|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5533" CreationDate="2017-02-17T09:32:17.213" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stanley/Bailey #4 w/ corrugated sole, #5 1/4, #6, Wood river low angle block plane, Stanley sweetheart dual rabbet plane, Simmons #6--longer than Stanley/Bailey #5 but smaller than #6).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which of these planes would be best for a shooting board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any of them other than the rebate plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which size of plane to use for shooting is partly a matter of preference. Some like to shoot with a no. 4 because they're smaller and easily controlled with one hand, others prefer to use a plane that has more mass so use 5s or larger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: for shooting board ends it can be very advantageous to use a larger plane because the greater heft can't as easily be stopped in its tracks by the resistance of the end grain in harder hardwoods. But sharpness of the iron and plane settings play a role here too — the sharper the iron is the better, adjust for a light cut, cap iron should not be positioned ultra-close to the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some trick to grinding the edges square to the sole?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get it much closer using the common lapping technique used these days of rubbing the plane back and forth on abrasive paper or cloth. The trick to improving squareness is that you can lean more heavily on the sole side or the opposite and you'll slowly remove more material there, beginning to bring the cheek to square. Then you just need to slog away until you're done (remembering to stop frequently to check for square).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also do this work with metalworking scrapers and file work. This requires some practice to get good results (filing in particular) but metalworkers tell us both are &lt;em&gt;better&lt;/em&gt; for achieving a truly flat surface on a plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But however you tackle it it's actually not important to do on almost any plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The cheek doesn't need to be square to the sole&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The lateral adjustment on a bench plane means that if the sole is slightly out you can compensate for it by adjusting the tilt of the iron assembly &lt;em&gt;until its cutting edge is square to the sole&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And most planes will have cheeks that aren't so far out that this is possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Not critical even when jointing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If doing edge shooting for jointing purposes (making glued-up panels) it's not vital that a board's edge ends up perfectly square to the face, as surprising as that sounds. What matters is that the edges of each pair of boards are complementary angles. So if one edge is 89° and the next is 91° they'll meet just as well as if they were both at 90°.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to ensure that each pair of edges is at a complementary angle you simply need to plane one of them face up, the next face down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a picture that may help if you're having difficulty in visualising this. It's for hand-planed edges but the same principle applies (this is also applicable to using a powered jointer incidentally):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NXRsU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NXRsU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Complementary angles in jointed edges&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;strong&gt;The Complete Illustrated Guide to Joinery&lt;/strong&gt; by Gary Rogowski.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can plane dead square, by hand or in a shooting board, that's great, but as you can see you don't have to sweat it too much if you don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2017-02-17T09:32:17.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5530" CreationDate="2017-02-17T13:46:57.930" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are commercially made carbide tipped hand scraping tools that you could grind into a conventional (non for lathe turning) wood chisel. This would last even longer than using HSS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="453" LastActivityDate="2017-02-17T13:46:57.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5540" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-18T08:17:37.827" Score="4" ViewCount="448" Body="&lt;p&gt;So during a current project of mine I ran into the issue of needing to plane down a good portion of a wooden piece (about a 1/16th - 1/8th). Now the key issue with this piece was the size and the shape of it. The piece is a relatively small circular like shape, about the diameter of 2.5 inches, and has a few 3/8th holes in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now normally I would have planed the piece to the correct thickness from the start, but the piece has already been cut and plans have changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally I believe the best option for this fix would be to use a drum sander, but as I do not own one as of now and need to fix a lot of these pieces I am trying to use what I have at hand(planer) while avoiding having to just go hand sand these all down using say a belt sander 1 at a time. I believe if I were to put all these pieces down on a board in which they would not slide on, grain running the same direction, I could get away with using the planer by feeding that board in the planer making extremely shallow cuts, but am not 100% sure and thought I would come here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So after coming to this problem I realized I have never actually formally learned the do's/do not's of using a thickness planer and was wondering what these were, as well as any suggestions, alternatives, or wisdom for my current dilemma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2271" LastActivityDate="2017-05-18T21:48:25.213" Title="Proper operation of a thickness planer and the &quot;do not's&quot; of planing" Tags="|sanding|thickness-planer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5522" CreationDate="2017-02-18T21:34:11.930" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mostly I add this for completeness. The practicality depends on how much of this you intend to do and the nature of the work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a band saw, you can use bandsaw sanding belts on it. This precludes sanding interior curves that are completely enclosed. Also, it of course works better with larger radii. I used this ages ago when making forms for guitar sides before I went &quot;freeform&quot;. You might be able to rig a curved backer to adapt to tighter radii. One advantage of this method is handling really thick pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I usually a sanding drumb in my drill press and limit the pressure. I chuck this up high in the chuck and sand as high as possible to reduce the torque on the chuck that puts lateral forces on the bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2762" LastActivityDate="2017-02-18T21:34:11.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5542" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-19T15:45:41.320" Score="4" ViewCount="936" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like advice on how to drill or bore a 7/8&quot; hole in the butt of a shotgun stock. It already has a hole in it that is off center of the hole I wish to bore. I need to bore the hole so that it is parallel to the top of the stock. This will accommodate a recoil device. The recoil device is cylindrical and absorbs energy to give a less perceptive recoil. I have a drill press, lathe and milling machine. Holding the stock is a real challenge in itself. Finding a mill that will bore a 4 inch hole is another concern. My mill will not hold larger that 3/4&quot;. I am interested in learning types of bits and rotational speeds that would work the best. This is all new to me. The wood is walnut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3329" LastEditorUserId="22" LastEditDate="2017-02-19T20:41:20.033" LastActivityDate="2017-02-19T20:41:20.033" Title="How to bore a hole in a shotgun stock that already has an off center hole in it?" Tags="|technique|drilling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5542" CreationDate="2017-02-19T17:48:23.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I Can't say I have done this much but here is what I found to work the best for what you are describing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend a forstner bit. This bit has a point in the center that helps with keeping it in the center. This is the bit I have used and had the best luck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f3jp9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f3jp9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Forstner bit (from google images)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other drill bits that I use I would stay away from. Spiral drill bits will wonder off when only half the bit is on the hole. Image below to help understand what I mean. And A spade bit is also not a good idea. I have used it in wonder if it would work and it does not. Again it would like to wonder off but this time it cuts in a ugly way. More smacking I guess you could say to the wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AT5a7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AT5a7.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can not recommend other bits since I have not used them. Clamp the work piece if you can. Hope this helped a little!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2017-02-19T17:48:23.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5542" CreationDate="2017-02-19T19:27:34.230" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You apparently are sensitive to the high likely-hood of the the drill bit wandering off course when attempting to drill a hole that partially overlaps an existing hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The usual approach when dealing with this problem is to fill the existing hole.  Fill it with a snug fitting dowel, ideally of the same type of wood (in your case walnut) so that it will react similarly when the drill is applied.  If a very soft wood were to be used there could still be significant wandering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the old hole is filled, the problem is no different from drilling into fresh wood since the tendency for the bit wander is eliminated..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for which bit to use, I would most likely use a Forstner bit, but you could certainly get away with using a twist bit, or if you're really gutsy you could go for a brace and an auger bit :).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for securing the work piece and lining up the drill path, that's an entirely new problem, but you should be prepared to test any setup with expendable wood before you attack your precious stock.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2017-02-19T19:27:34.230" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5545" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-19T20:59:31.567" Score="2" ViewCount="1318" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a bar-top arcade game. I have some plans from I Like To Make Stuff which I'm modifying and I'm steadily cutting the necessary pieces etc. I'm upcycling an old desk to make the front panel, control panel and monitor mount. The desk top is 22mm thick veneered chipboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the modifications I want to make is adding 4 USB ports to the front panel. The holes to mount the USB connectors need to 13.5x6mm, ideally with lip around the outside measuring 14.8x7.2mm, 1mm deep (to accommodate the USB port lip). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've enquired about getting this laser cut, but the material is unsuitable. Could anyone suggest a method for cutting such holes? Would CNC cutting be an option? Is it even worth attempting, as plan B might be to go with a material that could be laser cut? Thanx.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the USB port I'm trying to fit. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Nh0B.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Nh0B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;USB Port&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3330" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2017-02-20T08:17:21.477" LastActivityDate="2017-02-20T08:17:21.477" Title="The best way to cut small square holes and shallow rebate in chipboard?" Tags="|holes|cnc|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5545" CreationDate="2017-02-20T04:05:09.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a professional result I would suggest using two tools, a handheld drill and a handheld jigsaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First draw a rectangle with a marking pencil the size and shape of the USB port cage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wear safety goggles!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second use the drill with a bit with a diameter slightly wider than the width of the jigsaw blade and smaller than the USB port cage. Drill a hole at the edge if your marked rectangle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, insert the jigsaw blade in the hold you created. Saw along the edge of the rectangle until you get to a corner. The jigsaw will be capable of a pretty sharp turning radius so you should be able to spider out a few cuts from the same hole to get to all the corners of the rectangle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3331" LastActivityDate="2017-02-20T04:05:09.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5545" CreationDate="2017-02-20T04:25:24.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A CNC is definitely overkill here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use a drill or drill press to remove the bulk of waste, then use chisels to square up the hole and clean up the corners. Then use the chisel to score and pare away the little lip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, with chipboard you may have some difficulty, so I would suggest just cutting out a section slightly larger than the area that will house all 4 holes, and cut a solid hardwood insert that fits into this hole, then mounting your USB ports in that insert so you have an easy-to-install assembly. If it is a small enough piece, you won't really have to worry about seasonal movement, but you can also use a quartersawn piece for your insert to hedge your bets. You can also cut it slightly oversized then cut a rabbet around the outer edges so it has a small lip to cover any gap and potentially allow for movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2017-02-20T04:25:24.907" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5548" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-20T13:06:53.510" Score="5" ViewCount="1610" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making my own office desk, I'm 2m04cm so the height and depth are appropriate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've made the desk top from reclaimed floorboards. It's 1 inch thick, the supports underneath are from the same source. It's 19 inch (49cm) wide and 56x75 (142x190cm) in length. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1biaY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1biaY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;desk top&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GQcXE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GQcXE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;underneath of desk&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had these legs custom made to the height I need. The top plate has 6 counter sunk holes in. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AtiAQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AtiAQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;metal legs&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;The top and bottom plate are 17.5 inches long, 3 inches wide (7x47cm). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have a corner leg. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I need help with is based on the size of the desk top and legs what's the best way of attaching the legs to the desk top. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I :&#xA;1)Screw the legs directly into the desk? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2)Screw the legs into the support beams that are approx 20-30cm in from each end(that stops me putting draws underneath)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3)Glue/screw a extra support beam to the very ends of the desk, (the beam would be wider than the legs) to give me 2inch of wood to attach the legs too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Other&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice would be much appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3327" LastActivityDate="2017-02-20T16:36:38.327" Title="Best way to attach metal legs to corner desk? Do I need extra support?" Tags="|wood|furniture|table-making|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5549" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5555" CreationDate="2017-02-20T14:02:38.193" Score="3" ViewCount="3600" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to build a TV stand like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HPhrN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HPhrN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;TV stand&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but I have been trying to find a way to hide the end grain. I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crateandbarrel.com/austin-62-media-console/s339530&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this stand on Crate &amp;amp; Barrel&lt;/a&gt; with dovetail joints, but I am not nearly skilled enough to cut all those dovetails!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/inEXR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/inEXR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;C&amp;amp;B stand&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could the dovetailed joints on the C&amp;amp;B stand be replaced with doweled miter joints like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KjIA5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KjIA5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://s3.amazonaws.com/vs-lumberjocks.com/lvx7vvs.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would keep the other two butt jointed vertical supports as well (and maybe route shallow grooves in the horizontal boards for the vertical supports to fit in). I could also include a board on the back of the stand like the C&amp;amp;B model. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to use 1x8 (joined into 1x16) pine for the boards and something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/dowel-rods-walnut-36-long-choose-size&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this walnut dowel rod&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a relevant discussion &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1453/what-might-be-stronger-than-a-miter-but-still-look-like-a-miter-joint&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; as well. I don't have great access to a table saw, but this joint looks like a good contender:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RhXaw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RhXaw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;miter joint&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.01101001.com/miscellany/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this table&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jwMJp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jwMJp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Table&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;with a quick search, so it looks like there is precedence for this design, but I am concerned about the integrity of the joint considering there will be a TV on top of this stand. Will these joints, along with the other support pieces, be strong enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3332" LastEditorUserId="3332" LastEditDate="2017-02-20T15:40:07.693" LastActivityDate="2017-02-20T23:50:06.277" Title="Strength of doweled miter joint" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5548" CreationDate="2017-02-20T16:36:38.327" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two sets of concerns you must address in designing the base for your desk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, it is my understanding that you have three leg locations for the top, one each at the ends of the &quot;L&quot; and one at the corner intersection. In that case, your span between legs is as much as 70. The wood appears to be pine in which case the sag that will occur appears to be within an acceptable limit, but use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sagulator&lt;/a&gt; to confirm this.  When the loads are too great it is necessary to add vertical aprons either at the edges or underneath the shelf/desktop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, the desktop is made of solid wood pieces and will expand and contract width-wise (but not lengthwise) during the seasons while the steel leg base will not.  As the wood expands pressure will be applied to the screws holding the top to the leg plates.  If the screw holes in the steel plate are enlarged they should be able to accommodate the movement between the top and base.  The amount of difference can be calculated as well.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/tricks/how-to-calculate-wood-shrinkage-and-expansion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is one such site that explains the details of how to determine the amount of movement you might face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2017-02-20T16:36:38.327" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5171" CreationDate="2017-02-20T16:53:08.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell, arm-r-seal is basically a polyurethane varnish, so that would be the direction to investigate for chemical strippers. Unless you are sure the table top is solid wood, be careful when sanding to make sure you don't go through veneer. Furniture scrapers might be another approach; they can take a very thin layer off something if handled correctly.That's how I did my most recent refinishing job, though it was a simple one.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2017-02-20T16:53:08.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5549" CreationDate="2017-02-20T17:12:53.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is that you should be able to get by with the doweled connection, but there are a few things you must consider to make sure. The first thing to consider is will your table support the weight of the TV and whatever else you put on it.  You can determine this using the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sagulator&lt;/a&gt; to see how well the shelves will handle the weight.  The weight should easily be transferred to the vertical legs in any of the connections you show. However, one further consideration is that each joint should also be considered as a potential hinge.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your first photo, if a force is applied from the side, the entire table could collapse to the left or right side. The connecting joints must adequately resist the force.  Dovetails, by their geometry proved great resistance to this rotational force.  Box joints will also do very well.  Both of those joints offer a great deal of connection surface area to resist the potential to rotate by virtue of the glued connection.  Your dowels will also offer resistance, not so much because of the glue as by the strength of the dowel in resisting the shear and/or bending force.  Note that the dowels will want to bend and this will apply force to the wood shelf and legs. The thickness of the walls around the dowel sockets is important.  If there is too little wood in the leg face and the dowel itself, the dowel could tear out the surface. Making the legs thick enough or the dowels longer and of stronger wood will help. You can reduce the force at each dowel by increasing the number of dowels in the connection.  Your last photo shows a thick slab with many dowels which will resist a lot of rotational force very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to resisting the rotational force in the actual joints you can also do what is shown in your second photo.  Securing the panel on the back of the table provides an excellent means of reducing the rotational force on the shelf/leg joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how much is enough?  This is a pretty subjective issue. There is no simple calculator and most folk learn from experience, copying the connections of others and sometimes testing the limits.  If it were me I would use 3/4&quot; or 7/8&quot; hardwoods (for both beauty and strength).  I would prefer dovetails or box joints, but if using dowels would use 3/8&quot; dowels at 1 to 1 1/2&quot; centers.  I would also provide a back panel to reduce the stress of the connection joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2017-02-20T17:12:53.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="417" CreationDate="2017-02-20T20:57:30.930" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Small drill bits must be spun very fast and &quot;pecked&quot; much more frequently than larger bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Factor 1 - Cutter surface speed&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The surface speed of a drill bit is how fast the cutting edge moves across the material being drilled. This is measured in surface feet per minute (SFM) and is proportional to both the RPM and the diameter of the bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you get down to small sizes, say 1/16&quot;, you need high revs to be moving the cutting edge at an appropriate speed, keeping the chip load (and therefore cutting forces) low. The recommended SFM for wood is 600 to 1000.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recommended drilling speed for a 1/16&quot; bit is on the order of 40,000 RPM:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;(SFM * 12) / (Pi * Dia.) = (600 * 12) / (3.14 * 1/16) = 36,688 RPM&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which of course is higher than most folks have available. So you'll want to use your fastest speed and feed the bit proportionately more slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Factor 2 - Chip evacuation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once your hole is more than a couple bit diameters deep, you need to pull the bit out of the hole periodically to clear the chips. Failing to do this causes the bit to bind in the accumulated chips and break the bit. This periodic drill, pull out, drill action is called &quot;pecking&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the chips formed by a twist drill must be &quot;stored&quot; in the flutes. These can hold at most a few diameters worth of material before they become &quot;packed&quot; with chips. Continuing to drill in this state packs the chips against the wall of the hole and binds the bit, causing it to break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pecking is required on small bits at the same number of diameters as a big bit, but since the diameter is small, the pecks need to be what seem like very small amounts, say 1/8&quot; for the 1/16&quot; bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By keeping these two things in mind, smaller bits can last as long as larger ones, which for most home users is &quot;indefinitely&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2017-02-20T20:57:30.930" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5549" CreationDate="2017-02-20T23:50:06.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have been trying to find a way to hide the end grain. I found this stand on Crate &amp;amp; Barrel with dovetail joints, but I am not nearly skilled enough to cut all those dovetails!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dovetails don't hide end grain anyway, they make a feature of it so if you don't want to see any end grain they aren't the right choice. And by the same token neither would a box joint or finger/comb joint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Could the dovetailed joints on the C&amp;amp;B stand be replaced with doweled miter joints&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory yes, but in practice perhaps not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main problem here as I see it is not the joint you propose but that it's in pine. I regularly sing the praises of softwood and remind people that it can be surprisingly strong, but use in this design could well be expecting too much of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't because it's pine, but because of the specific pine you're likely intending to buy. In addition to there being numerous subspecies of pine, which vary widely in strength,  the faster you grow any softwood the weaker it is. And pine sold for building (2x material) is grown as fast as possible and is therefore often the poorest example of the species. While more utilitarian furniture designs built using it can be plenty strong, once you get into more experimental territory like this you're really pushing what the wood is capable of, both in terms of strength and in stability*.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;and maybe route shallow grooves in the horizontal boards for the vertical supports to fit in&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, do that. Regardless of what wood you used it would be a good idea. Housing the uprights like this will add a significant amount of stiffness to the overall structure, far more than you may realise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*In addition to its innate weakness it is often not dried well (both too quickly and not taken down far enough as a rule, simply because neither are required for its intended purpose) and then on top of this it is frequently stored poorly where it's sold. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-02-20T23:50:06.277" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5522" CreationDate="2017-02-21T00:54:43.070" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Inflatable drum sander, generally (but not always) used in a lathe. Unlike a rigid drum, these are adjustably conformable by how much air pressure is in the drum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not really that different, but for smaller scale stuff sleeves/drums on a handheld or flex-shaft rotary tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The end drum of a belt sander. Some of the knife-makers (metalwork, but similar tooling) cobble up (or perhaps buy, now, from other folks that cobble them up on a larger scale) belt sanders with different sized contact wheels to get different diameters without being stuck on buying pesky sleeves in each size. Can't really get to something that recurves with one of those, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then again, if you have a lot of call for it, a spindle sander might be the way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3334" LastActivityDate="2017-02-21T00:54:43.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5557" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-21T01:00:57.370" Score="5" ViewCount="5684" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to build some table legs with a double X design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Op3hB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Op3hB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top is about 40&quot; wide (round) and weighs 120lbs. I should think that 4x4 posts should do it, but maybe they need to be bigger? I can find many how-to documents about building a single X design by notching half of each post, but the double X seems more complicated if I want it to support the weight of the top and everything placed on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3335" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2017-06-22T16:58:56.173" LastActivityDate="2017-06-22T16:58:56.173" Title="How to build a double X table leg" Tags="|furniture|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5557" CreationDate="2017-02-21T02:44:51.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is one way, although it is a little bit difficult to show in a simple sketch.  Sorry, but the cross section sketches show the joints horizontally instead of in vertical orientation. Give me some feedback if this is not clear enough.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The legs do not have to be 4&quot; to support the weight, but they may be needed to get the 4-way intersection to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two legs in one plane act as the primary assembly and are lap-joined with a notch in each leg to allow them to cross each other.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/irTVu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/irTVu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Primary legs cross&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next the opposite legs do not cross through. Instead create a 90 degree joint with a spline (dashed line) centered in each leg to support the 90 degree bend. (Shown in red).  These legs will set in a mortise cut (not shown &amp;amp; narrower than the full leg width) into the sides of the primary legs (black lines).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ynsgi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ynsgi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Secondary legs.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A section through the combined legs is shown below.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wT51Z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wT51Z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cross section&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary and secondary legs can be joined in a glued joint provided the boards are in good contact with each other.  Otherwise consider some through dowels to reinforce the joints.  I strongly suggest that you make a test model before attempting this for the actual project.  There are bound to be complications that you did not consider that can be worked out in a test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2017-02-21T02:44:51.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5559" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-21T03:42:56.647" Score="1" ViewCount="761" Body="&lt;p&gt;So at school we are doing a bunch of different joints and biscuit was one of them. But as I was working I came down with the question of what makes them so good. There are other joints that I think work better, mainly being dowel because it is a similar idea. I also think that dowels are stronger, and here are my reasons. Dowels fit tightly, while a biscuit is rather loose, and seems to need glue filled in more or less. Unless I am wrong. And the other main reason is you can have the dowel deeper in the wood than a biscuit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So otherwise I truly do not know much about biscuit joinery and would love to know more about it. What are advantages, disadvantages to using this method. And really just anything on it would be great!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2017-02-21T09:55:41.557" LastActivityDate="2017-02-21T15:11:34.813" Title="What is so great with biscuit joinery?" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5559" CreationDate="2017-02-21T05:35:48.330" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This won't be an absolutely complete list, but here's a few reasons I like biscuits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;they are pretty strong, especially with respect to pull-apart strength, within reason&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;they make alignment and glue-up much easier&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;easy to do, compared to pretty much everything except a butt joint&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the downside, I wouldn't build furniture with it because of strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding biscuits being loose, my experience is that there's a tiny bit of slop, but that it isn't generally an issue. You can push-pull your joint into appropriate alignment and then glue or pin it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, there's a place for dowels (long, so stronger in some joints), traditional mortise and tenon (classic and strong), Dominos (dowels on steroids), pocket screws (great for face frames, where you don't need a ton of strength), laps of all kinds (easy), dovetails/box joints (beautiful, hard to do)... I've probably missed a few obvious joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully, someone less lazy than me will find a comprehensive strength test between the various joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastEditorUserId="503" LastEditDate="2017-02-21T15:11:34.813" LastActivityDate="2017-02-21T15:11:34.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5559" CreationDate="2017-02-21T09:54:45.303" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is so great with biscuit joinery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's all I've got, because other than that I don't think it's a good joinery method, for finer work especially. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So at school we are doing a bunch of different joints and biscuit was one of them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Biscuits aren't a joint per se as they're a &lt;em&gt;reinforcement&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;alignment aid&lt;/em&gt;. Many butt joints can be reinforced with biscuits, including mitres, standard 90° butts and edge joints. Arguably the first two are rightly called &quot;biscuit joints&quot;, but in the third the biscuits are there as an aid to alignment during the glue-up (and therefore have little real value, they certainly don't add strength as some believe and can in fact undermine the joint in the long term, also see reference to telegraphing in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4343/make-a-table-top-using-pocket-holes/4345#4345&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I also think that dowels are stronger, and here are my reasons. Dowels fit tightly, while a biscuit is rather lose&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dowels &lt;strong&gt;can&lt;/strong&gt; be stronger, but it's all about the specifics. The diameter of the dowelling used, their overall length and how deeply they are seated in &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt; workpieces are all significant factors. And it goes without saying that the species of wood used for the dowel is important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re. the loose fit of biscuits, they're supposed to only be that way when first inserted. They're made of compressed wood (beech usually AFAIK) and they are intended to swell to a tight fit after the glue is applied. This is why biscuits are supposed to be carefully stored to keep them dry. It's also why you have to be mindful of the glue used, any glue that doesn't contain water is not as good a choice as one that does. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;seems to need glue filled in more or less&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most woodworking you should never think of glue as a filling material or gap-filler. Most common glues are truly terrible gap-fillers, relying instead of very close fitting of components to make a strong joint (the thinner the glue line the better, as odd as that might seem). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to this general point you should be careful not to over-fill a biscuit pocket with glue. Apart from the waste in glue — most will simply slop out as the biscuit is pushed home — if you make the pockets overly wet you can get localised swelling, which is a problem more than a few users have discovered the hard way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2017-02-21T09:54:45.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5557" CreationDate="2017-02-21T15:35:14.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it were me, I would probably start by making 4 half-X's that are half-lapped. Then miter them all together. The glued half lapped half-x's oriented vertically will support the weight of the top, and they can be mitered together, and even doweled or connected using a floating tenon at that point as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ThKu8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ThKu8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Half-X&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0nf0F.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0nf0F.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Top View &quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N9wEh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N9wEh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Iso&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastActivityDate="2017-02-21T15:35:14.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5563" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-21T17:25:54.037" Score="0" ViewCount="245" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a table and I wonder if it will be horizontally stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the details:&#xA;The table width is 160cm, depth 70cm, height 76cm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The table top is 6cm thick and is made out of block-board (14mm pine core + 2mm birch + 1mm oak veneer). It's empty inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The table legs are 70cm tall and 70cm wide. They are made out of a stainless steel closed profile (width 4cm, depth 2cm, thickness 0.2cm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I attach the drawing for clarity (all dimensions are in cm).&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kHzkv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kHzkv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be grateful for any suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With kind regards,&#xA;Tomasz&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3340" LastActivityDate="2017-02-22T02:30:48.763" Title="horizontal stablity" Tags="|table-making|stability|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2017-02-27T19:28:13.713" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5564" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-21T18:46:35.447" Score="3" ViewCount="1408" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hope this question is not too general.  I would like to make this table: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gqaQM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gqaQM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Popular Woodworking Stool&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/moravian-stool-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/moravian-stool-2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It mentions the dimensions : 1-5⁄8″ square at the top and 1″ at the bottom.  One thing I was wondering is how legs are typically made?  Do I find some larger square block of wood and cut it down? Or can I laminate some longer thinner pieces, since a 1-5/8 inch thick board is not easy to come by.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I do laminate the boards, is there a straightforward way to then round one end (the top end) into a circle (so it can slide into the holes drilled in the stool top)?  Something like a huge pencil sharpener maybe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3135" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-02-22T02:35:44.100" LastActivityDate="2017-02-22T17:32:25.690" Title="Leg basics for stools, chairs, table" Tags="|technique|furniture|traditional-techniques|table-making|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="417" CreationDate="2017-02-21T19:53:56.813" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume you are using a typical hand-held powered drill? The shape and position of the handle with respect to the bit makes it hard not to apply bending force to the bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like using an old-fashioned egg-beater drill for pilot holes. The handle lies on the same axis as the bit so pushing down as you drill doesn't apply bending force. The long shape of the tool also makes it much easier to line up by eye perpendicular to the surface. The biggest downside is you need to use both hands so they might not work for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also find that using wood-specific (ie brad point) drill bits helps as they tend to have larger flutes that aid chip evacuation. Since the bit doesn't clog up you don't end up having to either stop and clear the bit periodically or push hard to complete the cut (and risk snapping the bit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, only the better and more expensive brands make brad-point bits in small sizes and 2mm is the smallest I've found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3343" LastEditorUserId="3343" LastEditDate="2017-02-21T20:03:47.430" LastActivityDate="2017-02-21T20:03:47.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5563" CreationDate="2017-02-22T02:30:48.763" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can't put in aprons (which are one traditional way of providing some side support on the legs), and you can't put in other bracing members, all I can suggest is that you attach the leg extremely firmly (a good solid weld) to a larger plate so there is more leverage/support to prevent twisting. More screws, larger gauge screws, and screws specifically designed for the tabletop material, will help to strengthen that attachment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do some searching on the web and look at designs of commercially made legs, that may give you some ideas on stronger designs. Or find a commercially made table that has the look you want and see how they solved it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2017-02-22T02:30:48.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5564" CreationDate="2017-02-22T10:37:41.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;One thing I was wondering is how legs are typically made?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately there isn't a typical way that legs are done, it's entirely down to the tools available to the woodworker and to some extend what they feel like using. For example someone might own a bandsaw but they wouldn't necessarily use it when doing every table or stool leg but prefer to do it using hand tools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a table saw is available and the user has made a tapering jig then the table saw is very often the tool of choice for doing legs because it's fast and efficient. Much the same cuts can be accomplished with a bandsaw by a skilled user, although they won't usually be as clean or straight and will require more cleanup to be considered finished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the same thing can be done using hand tools only, just as it was before there were any power saws. To break it down simply, you start with a square blank usually, plane down the taper, then plane down the corners to form the octagonal section (or plane to octagonal and then taper, depending on preference). An octagonal-planing cradle is a useful jig to make for doing this but not essential&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. It's slower but you can clamp between two dogs, by clamping the workpiece ends with a long clamp and then clamping that down to the workbench, or clamping up and then putting the clamp in a vice as Paul Sellers likes to promote as his system is another good way to go if you have a vice on your bench:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jut4E.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jut4E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Clamp-in-vice&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://paulsellers.com/2013/03/the-paul-sellers-vise-clamp-system-or/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Paul Sellers’ vise-clamp system or... dogging the status quo&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do I find some larger square block of wood and cut it down? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's generally the way it's done yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might find this useful, also on Pop Woodworking, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/octagons-made-easy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Octagon Layout Made Easy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Or can I laminate some longer thinner pieces, since a 1-5/8 inch thick board is not easy to come by.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes you can do that, and it often it will yield legs that are stronger than if they were made from a single piece of the same species. But you must have good mating surfaces (flat and smooth) and they must be glued together well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;is there a straightforward way to then round one end (the top end) into a circle (so it can slide into the holes drilled in the stool top)? Something like a huge pencil sharpener maybe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes there are such tools and they work exactly like a huge pencil sharpener. But for a single table you don't need one at all, you can do it just with some careful making out, a few saw cuts and paring with a sharp knife or chisel. Some practice is obviously a good idea to ensure good results but you can get an acceptable round tenon first time if you don't rush things&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get the shape as close as needed by paring alone (going from rough cuts that remove chunks of wood to removing thin slivers when you're close to the finished profile) but you can fine-tune the shape to a near-perfect round profile using files or by sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; I'd highly recommend taking the time to make one if you'll be doing this even semi-regularly. The time it takes will be offset by time you save doing just a single set of octagonal legs by any vice or clamp method. Couldn't find a picture of one sorry but it's described well in Robert Wearing's &lt;strong&gt;The Resourceful Woodworker&lt;/strong&gt; which I highly recommend if you're into jigs and other woodworking aids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; The first rounded end of something I made was to fit a ferrule on a file handle handle and it was about as good as any I've made. And actually my second set made some months later were a little worse because I was over-confident and rushed things!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-02-22T10:37:41.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="319" CreationDate="2017-02-22T15:02:32.937" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Desperate times call for desperate moves.  I am facing such a situation with two very unique boards I want to use for a table top, but they are hopelessly bowed.  A Google search turned up a desperate solution:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cUqjC7E8u44&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cUqjC7E8u44&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will probably attempt this in, perhaps, a more refined approach - wedges that match the wood and fill the cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3346" LastActivityDate="2017-02-22T15:02:32.937" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5564" CreationDate="2017-02-22T16:16:39.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To cut the taper in the legs on your table saw, make a jig to shuttle the stock along the fence. The one shown below is two pieces of 1 x 4 screwed at the top end in contact with each other, at the bottom a spacer is used to provide the desired taper. I'd add a clete at the bottom for safety and repetition. To cut the bevels, rotate your saw or add chamfer to the jig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd just trim the round tenon by hand, you'll already have it at the octagon stage. Use a rasp and a long piece of sandpaper you can finish with as if shining shoes old-style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure to shape your legs a bit long both ends and trim-to-length as the last step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZjsLG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZjsLG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2762" LastEditorUserId="2762" LastEditDate="2017-02-22T17:32:25.690" LastActivityDate="2017-02-22T17:32:25.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5571" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-22T16:24:02.253" Score="3" ViewCount="100" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a continuation from &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5382/carving-a-wooden-handle-any-rules-of-thumb&quot;&gt;my previous question&lt;/a&gt; on the log box I've been carving. Since then I've carved the handle (thanks for the advice!) and added a magnet closure system for my swivel lid (neodymium rings fastened in place with aluminum nails).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the pictures below for a look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel like I've got the exterior where I want it to be, but I'm having trouble finishing the cavity to a level where it's visually &quot;clean.&quot; I've been working it mainly with hand tools and my Dremel. The interior cavity is roughly 4.25&quot; deep and a about 3.25&quot; across, which means the narrowness limits the work space. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will I have to spend an eternity sanding, or is there another way to work out the tool marks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vVvd7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vVvd7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Side profile with view of handle carved out&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ewdYX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ewdYX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Top down picture of the closure system and rough interior&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3137" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2017-02-22T23:39:44.787" Title="Finishing a narrow cavity" Tags="|finishing|sanding|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5572" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-22T17:30:10.780" Score="6" ViewCount="2701" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whats the safety regarding hand tools and dust masks?  My hope is that in general hand tools will not produce fine enough dust to be concerned with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My assumptions are that using hand planes taking decent sized shavings or chisels/gouges should be fine without a mask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a little more fuzzy on: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;smoothing planes taking very thin shavings,&#xA;card scrapers which seem to create some dust along with tendrils (especially as they approach resharpening time),&#xA;hand saws (dovetail, coping),&#xA;brace and bit (hand style drill)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it goes without saying that using any power tools I should wear a mask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3135" LastActivityDate="2021-01-26T16:34:46.067" Title="Respirator / Dust mask for hand tools?" Tags="|hand-tools|hand-saw|dust-collection|sawdust|hand-planing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5572" CreationDate="2017-02-22T18:07:36.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not think there is anything to worry about unless your doing a lot of sandpaper. The reason I say you should is because even hand sanding can but enough in the air. But for those other things I would not worry about it. Don;t think there is much more to be said, somebody else may think different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2017-02-22T18:07:36.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5571" CreationDate="2017-02-22T20:53:42.097" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is probably going to be tough any way you cut it. I would suggest a combination of curved card scraper and something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001F527F0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these abrasive brushes&lt;/a&gt;, possibly mounted on a long or flex shaft to get into the cavity.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/moWmB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/moWmB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Abrasive brushes from Amazon&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-02-22T23:39:44.787" LastActivityDate="2017-02-22T23:39:44.787" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5572" CreationDate="2017-02-22T23:29:13.967" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My hope is that in general hand tools will not produce fine enough dust to be concerned with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it is now fairly widely known that the finer dusts are the most hazardous (as produced primarily by certain power tools) this can tend to obscure the fact that all wood dust is a potential health hazard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This position is considered overly cautious by the standards of some woodworkers, and it is erring on the side of caution, but the one thing you want to be careful not to do is fall into the &quot;it won't happen to me&quot; mentality as we all know where that can lead*. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is true that many people have gotten away with a working lifetime of occupational exposure to wood dusts with no apparent harm, but equally there is the occasional unlucky person who is exposed only to small amounts of dust periodically in their hobby woodworking and that is enough for them to develop an allergic response (which can quickly become bad enough that they have to stop using one or more species of wood completely, the reaction can be that severe). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Needless to say there's no way of knowing in advance where on the spectrum you might fall, so it does make sense to take precautions as though the dust &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; harmful to you. Because it might be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So IMO any extensive sanding, even if exclusively by hand, should either be done with an efficient dust-collection system in place (e.g. over a downdraft sanding table) or wearing a well-fitting dust mask. Planing or chiselling don't generate any airborne dust to speak of so the risk there is too small to reasonably worry about. Hand sawing, scraping as well as file or rasp work you'll have to weigh for yourself based on the species you commonly use and how much of the work you're doing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related Q&amp;amp;As:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1682/why-and-when-should-i-wear-a-dust-mask&quot;&gt;Why and when should I wear a dust mask?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/353/what-kind-of-wood-dust-is-toxic-dangerous-and-requires-usage-of-dust-mask&quot;&gt;What kind of wood dust is toxic/dangerous and requires usage of dust mask?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Things like removing the safety guards and riving knives from table saws and never putting them back, building router tables without a guard despite it taking almost no time to fit one, running wood over an unguarded jointer holding the workpiece in the hands. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2017-02-22T23:29:13.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="37" CreationDate="2017-02-23T01:39:24.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my case we assembled the door using pocket holes for assembly.  Then ran around the inside edge with a rabbet  bit leaving us with  rounded corners. I then  used a  chisel to cut small perpendicular notches  on the rounded part and also  chiseled the leading edge of the round on the perpendicular part of the  corer (it is usually fairly small and one parallel chisel strike should clean it out. Finally I used the chisel with the bevel down (To control depth) to cut out these small slices and then finally a cleanup of the rabbet corner with some  fine detail with the chisel. Repeat with the remaining three corners. This is effective for  small project.  For multiple copies such as picture frames you can make a  big and use a small rabbet bit in the jig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3349" LastActivityDate="2017-02-23T01:39:24.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5577" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5579" CreationDate="2017-02-23T16:35:19.333" Score="5" ViewCount="645" Body="&lt;p&gt;2x4's are about 1.5&quot; x 3.5&quot; in reality. How does this affect the integrity of a structure? Or do the engineers just do their math with 1.5&quot; x 3.5&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3324" LastEditorUserId="780" LastEditDate="2017-02-24T00:43:07.770" LastActivityDate="2017-02-24T00:43:07.770" Title="2x4's are not really 2x4. How does this affect the integrity of a structure?" Tags="|design|lumber|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="304" CreationDate="2017-02-23T16:48:54.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as hand saws go, they definitely have a place in the shop. I own 7 rip saws and not a single cross cut saw. From the research I have done, crosscut saws are a new-ish tool and you don't &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why?  Well, when cross cutting project-sized wood (say 3/4&quot; or thinner&quot; a rip saw does a great job and the tear out is minimal. You can eliminate all tear out on the back side if you score the wood with a knife first. On thicker stock (more than 1&quot; or so) a cross cut can be faster, but it still isn't needed. It is only now I am considering converting one of my rip cut saws to cross cut, and that is only because I have a &quot;spare&quot; 5TPI saw and quite a bit of 8/4 stock to creak down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience (granted it is only 5 years) tooth count is more important than rip/cross. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user234" LastActivityDate="2017-02-23T16:48:54.757" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5577" CreationDate="2017-02-23T16:54:18.940" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The strength of wood is established for various species based upon the actual cross section area of material.  Industry standards set over 50 years ago established the actual dimensions of a nominal 2x? boards at 1.5&quot; wide. The depth of 2x4 and 2x6 were set 1/2&quot; less than nominal dimension and large depths at -3/4&quot; from nominal. Structural engineering tables may show strengths for nominal sizes, but are actually based upon the actual dimensions.  You do not have to do any other calculations when reading industry standard tables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2017-02-23T16:54:18.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5580" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5582" CreationDate="2017-02-23T17:51:55.050" Score="2" ViewCount="581" Body="&lt;p&gt;This project calls for toenailing the beams to the sills (see diagram). Would a screw work or is a nail better at these locations?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KvWdp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KvWdp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Frame of two-by-fours milled lumber, with names of parts&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3324" LastActivityDate="2017-02-23T23:13:15.133" Title="Toenail or Toescrew a beam to a sill?" Tags="|joinery|screws|nailing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5572" CreationDate="2017-02-23T22:24:22.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regarding planing - from my experience with hand planing porous wood (locust, oak) there is flying dust.&#xA;It accumulates on glasses, therefore easy to detect.&#xA;Mask could be useful even with hand planing...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3353" LastActivityDate="2017-02-23T22:24:22.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5580" CreationDate="2017-02-23T23:13:15.133" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question has been asked in DIY &lt;a href=&quot;https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/88120/is-framing-with-screws-legal&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, but there are several structural related considerations that are worth mentioning for woodworker's consideration.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most residential codes require nails.  That is because the industry standards for nails are well established.  The most commonly used framing nail is a 16d and the thickness and material strength of the nail is defined.  Any structural wood framing member is going to pass thru load stresses in compression (squeezing), tension (pulling), shear (across the profile), and bending.  If you look at common construction screws, the profile thickness is thinner and the metal material type is not the same.  My experience is that the screws are more brittle and I have had the heads or bodies snap  during installation. In my judgement they will not stand up to the forces that can be generated in a framing situation and I would not use them unless they were certified as structural framing replacements for nails. (I've never noticed such a claim on screws from the big box stores.) In addition nails in a nail gun install much quicker than screws.  On the other hand the threaded screw draw pieces together very well and I do use them for non-structural conditions all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:22:17.110" LastActivityDate="2017-02-23T23:13:15.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5583" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-24T03:16:16.883" Score="1" ViewCount="456" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Delta ShopMaster DP350 Type I drill press in need of a replacement chuck.  The current chuck is rusted and I can't open it. Other than this issue, the machine cleaned up nicely, rust on the table, stand, and column has been removed, and it runs like it did when it was new. I think this machine is worth this minor repair... if I can figure out what I need to purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I started digging into this, I quickly found there are a few choices when it comes to chucks and I have no idea how to select one. Everything on this machine is stock - no aftermarket upgrades - so it would be a good start if I could find what type of chuck was included from the factory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I figure out what kind of chuck I need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3322" LastActivityDate="2017-04-05T18:22:15.210" Title="Where can I find a replacement chuck for a drill press?" Tags="|tool-repair|drill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5584" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5588" CreationDate="2017-02-24T15:59:54.910" Score="3" ViewCount="2742" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on adding internal lighting to my pantry, and have discovered that the LED strips really only work when held at a 45 degree angle to the bottom of a shelf. I'd like to get a dowel rod and cut it into two dowel rods, each being a right triangle in cross-section, such that I could attach the led strips to the hypotenuse of that triangle. I have some woodworking tools from my dad (skill saw, circular saw, miter saw, reciprocating saw), but little to no experience beyond &quot;saw this 2x4&quot; or &quot;cut this plywood to this size&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think if I tried to use any of these tools, I would probably not get a decently straight line down the dowel, so I'm hesitant to try. What tools could I use to rip this dowel rod in this way? That being said, I'm not really interested in wood working as a hobby, so I don't want to invest in the most expensive way to accomplish this task, I'd like to do it with either the tools I have or relatively inexpensive tools. I'd like to avoid going out and buying say, a table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, I'm using a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.menards.com/main/home-decor/craft-supplies/dowels-wooden-pins-plugs/madison-mill-1-2-x-36-poplar-square-dowel/p-1444438754821-c-12188.htm?tid=-8686804353217824565&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1/2&quot; square dowel&lt;/a&gt; that I will be cutting to 12'' long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3356" LastEditorUserId="3356" LastEditDate="2017-02-24T16:29:44.847" LastActivityDate="2017-02-24T18:33:12.080" Title="What is the cheapest way to create a right triangle out of a square dowel rod or similar?" Tags="|dowel|rip-cut|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5583" CreationDate="2017-02-24T16:19:50.487" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ereplacementparts.com/delta-dp350-variablespeed-bench-drill-press-parts-c-3275_3279_7680.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ereplacementparts.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks like part # 1310049&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastActivityDate="2017-02-24T16:19:50.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5586" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-24T16:33:24.250" Score="1" ViewCount="255" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planing on using live edge boards for the sides of a floor to ceiling bookcase, and I would prefer not too use a &quot;header&quot; board (for lack of better term) or any sort of trim around the top or bottom. That is, I want the sides to really be full length from floor to ceiling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;How might I best accomplish this?&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The boards will be ~ 1.5-2&quot; thick and ~8' long, so I can't just bend them into place. I was thinking of making 45º miter cuts on the bottom inside faces, the sliding the waste back in after the sides are installed. Might there be a better way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-02-25T01:29:18.673" LastActivityDate="2017-03-01T02:31:28.987" Title="how to design and install full length (floor-to-ceiling) built in bookcase?" Tags="|design|installation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5584" CreationDate="2017-02-24T16:58:04.477" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not want to start with 1/2&quot; x 1/2&quot; square stock unless you have a table saw.  Trying to rip small stock with the tools you listed would be quite difficult (and dangerous).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, start with a bigger piece of stock, say 1x6.  Mark a line 1/2&quot; in from one edge.  Put your circular saw at a 45 degree bevel and rip along that line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2017-02-24T18:33:12.080" LastActivityDate="2017-02-24T18:33:12.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5584" CreationDate="2017-02-24T18:14:14.170" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can buy what you need already fabricated. Search &quot;champfer strip&quot;. Here's a Home Depot link: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/p/Alexandria-Moulding-3-4-in-x-3-4-in-Pine-Chamfer-Strip-Moulding-0W995-200RLC/206844349&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.homedepot.com/p/Alexandria-Moulding-3-4-in-x-3-4-in-Pine-Chamfer-Strip-Moulding-0W995-200RLC/206844349&lt;/a&gt; If the 3/4&quot; x 3/4&quot; is too fat, here's a link to 1/2&quot;: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.patterson-online.com/itemdetail/WC1210&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.patterson-online.com/itemdetail/WC1210&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure you can find other options as well from a more thorough search.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2762" LastActivityDate="2017-02-24T18:14:14.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5586" CreationDate="2017-02-24T19:53:10.730" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only way to do what you are describing it to build it in place. Cabinet makers generally do no make the sides floor to ceiling for this reason and a few others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You generally do would want a recessed toe kick for something like this rather than just a bottom shelf resting on the floor, which both looks bad, and functionally doesn't allow much of an opportunity to shim or scribe to any out of level floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same goes for the ceiling, which will undoubtedly not be straight or level over any sizeable distance. So if you desire a built in appearance, you should design the shelf to incorporate scribes where it meets the walls, floor and ceiling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, if you build this completely and then install, you will need to be able to stand it up in place, and this means that the longest measurement from corner to corner will need to clear the ceiling, Building a separate toekick will give you a head start here. If you have 6&quot; baseboards, and thus build a 6&quot; tall toekick separate, then you can stand up the shelf, which will be at least 6&quot; shorter before it is set on the toekick. Also, you can level your toekick first, and then run baseboard around it, and shoe mould to cover any gap at the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you just need to address the scribe at the ceiling. If you build the shelf with a faceframe, then you can account for scribe in the top rail. Otherwise you could add trim, either overlay, or recessed. If recessed you can create a reveal which would make any trim at the top sort of disappear into a shadow line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastActivityDate="2017-02-24T19:53:10.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5586" CreationDate="2017-02-24T21:04:57.697" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One approach might be to use steel clip angles with 3/4&quot;to 1&quot; legs several inches long to fasten the screwed to the wall at the back, top and bottom on the inside face. The angles would easily be concealed when the bookshelves are loaded.  You could also cut 1/8&quot; wide kerfs at the angle locations such that the angles are covered when the side panels are slid into place.  The angles would be under, over and behind the panels.  Make certain that there is wood blocking behind the plaster/drywall finish to adequately support the angles.  You might also be able to substitute dowels for the angles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2017-02-24T21:04:57.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5591" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-02-25T01:54:02.907" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This tag is one of several tags that can be used to identify the stages in a project's life the question is addressing.  Other useful phase tags include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;design, assembly, &amp;amp; finishing &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-02-25T01:54:02.907" LastActivityDate="2017-02-25T01:54:02.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5592" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-02-25T01:54:02.907" Score="0" Body="The conditions, techniques and issues associated with placing completed woodworking projects in place such as cabinetry in  buildings." OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-02-25T01:54:02.907" LastActivityDate="2017-02-25T01:54:02.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5593" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-25T10:03:28.527" Score="-1" ViewCount="1806" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a table and I wonder how to improve the horizontal stability so that the table does not wobble/move from left to right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the details: The table width is 160cm, depth 70cm, height 76cm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The table top is 6cm thick and is made out of block-board (14mm pine core + 2mm birch + 1mm oak veneer). It's empty inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The table legs are 70cm tall and 70cm wide. They are made out of a stainless steel closed profile (width 4cm, depth 2cm, thickness 0.2cm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need more reputations to post more photos/links so I redirect you to this question where I've already posted them &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5563/horizontal-stablity/5567#5567&quot;&gt;horizontal stablity&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The leg is connected to the table top by two screws. Additionally, a flat metal bar is welded to the leg and it is mounted to the table top by another two screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now the entire connection is bad and hence the table top doesn't touch the leg nearly at all. There are only few touching points; even where the screws are, the table top doesn't touch the leg perfectly (I think the leg and bar are not completely straight). All in all, the table wobbles and the horizontal displacement is around 2-3mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The design of this table has to be however as clean and simple as possible so adding a cross member is the last thing I want to do :/&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that improving the connection will decrease the horizontal displacement. However, I wonder if the table will still wobble a bit just because of table and legs dimensions (especially because the leg width is only 4cm and the table width is 160cm while the table height is 76cm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other issue is how to make the leg-table-top connection better (assuming that the leg and bar are completely straight). Right now the screw goes through the entire profile of the leg, like on left figure. Would it be better if it connects the table top only with the upper horizontal wall of the leg, like on the right figure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fID6C.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fID6C.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I use more screws, is it better to fix them in an alternate manner? like this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KP0LY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KP0LY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;screws order&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could also make new legs which are wider e.g. 5cm x 2cm x 0.2cm (width x depth x thickness). Would it improve the stability considerably?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3341" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2017-03-29T23:43:24.067" Title="horizontal stability of a table" Tags="|tabletop|table-making|stability|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5594" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-26T05:12:17.103" Score="3" ViewCount="938" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am refinishing a cedar chest. I took it down to the bare wood and applied water based wood conditioner. I was almost ready to stain but luckily I realized the stain I was about to apply is oil based.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let the wood dry overnight and take it back to the bare wood? Or is a light sanding all I need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3363" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-02-02T13:13:26.473" LastActivityDate="2020-02-02T13:13:26.473" Title="Applied wood conditioner for water based stain in error" Tags="|refinishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5594" CreationDate="2017-02-26T12:47:57.310" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should have nothing to worry about as far as compatibility is concerned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Let the wood dry overnight ...? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In actual fact it's usually a good idea to wait for this type of thing to fully dry &lt;em&gt;even if the instructions say otherwise&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the time gap between you asking and reading an Answer you've almost certainly given it ample time!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some added context, &quot;wood conditioner&quot; isn't really a thing. It's merely a marketing name for one of a number of products made to help lessen or prevent blotching in blotch-prone woods and as such it really has little use in any other context. Although it can be used to deliberately make any wood stain more lightly, you can do this in other ways without having to put something on the wood first and then have to wait for it to dry&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past, before these products came on the scene, this same job was accomplished in other ways, e.g. using a thin application of shellac (sometimes referred to as a &lt;em&gt;spitcoat&lt;/em&gt;) or glue size (diluted glue). An initial dilute application of varnish or lacquer can also be used, as can a coat of oil if that fits in with the overall finishing regimen. And all of these can still be used for the same purpose, without of course having to buy a specialised product that has no other use in the shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most commercial &quot;wood conditioner&quot; is merely a type of diluted finish, i.e. nothing you couldn't make for yourself in two minutes, but with a huge mark-up on the price considering what's in the container is mostly thinners&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Apply less heavily (most application instructions call for a huge excess to be applied, most of which ends up on the wiping rags and not on the wood!), dilute or thin the stain, wipe off sooner and/or more thoroughly, dampen the wood prior to application. Or buy/mix up a lighter colour to start with and apply it normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Just like with most &quot;Danish oil&quot;, &quot;teak oil&quot; and wiping varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-02-26T12:47:57.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5596" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-26T20:15:32.963" Score="2" ViewCount="13367" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best board (type of wood) for making signs? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will purchase board and then cut it to size of sign. Need something that doesn't warp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3365" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2017-02-27T08:31:07.263" LastActivityDate="2017-03-01T02:15:05.033" Title="What are some good wood choices for making signs?" Tags="|wood-selection|warp|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5596" CreationDate="2017-02-27T09:00:52.703" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a number of choices here, many of which aren't wood-based.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Need something that doesn't warp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In reality warping is one of the lesser concerns, with swelling and delamination from water intrusion and glue breakdown being more critical factors than the development of a slight bow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plywood seems like an obvious recommendation here but it's not as simple as that unfortunately. Plywood quality has been in decline for a long time now and woodworkers regularly complain that what's sold today is noticeably inferior to what was sold just 10 or 15 years ago. And I've seen evidence of this firsthand, with supposedly waterproof plywood (hardwood ply stamped WBP*) delaminating after just a few months of occasional exposure to water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you want a sign that holds up well for a long time suggesting you buy exterior-grade plywood is no longer sufficient. You need to source the best quality exterior ply you can find, and that is probably going to be classed as marine-grade. This stuff is expensive so expect some sticker shock, but it is guaranteed to be waterproof and to withstand extremes of temperature (e.g. from direct strong sunlight).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a sign that will be painted I think either marine-grade plywood or a waterproof/water-resistant version of MDF are your best options in terms of wood products. &lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; the MDF must be sealed fully, that means both faces and all edges, and this is a good idea with any plywood also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a sign that features applied vinyl graphics arguably nothing wood-based is the ideal way to go but instead an engineered plastic, metal (e.g. honeycomb aluminium) or composite board material. These are actually made specifically for signage. These boards respond minimally to changes in temperature, not at all to changes in humidity and, in short, few wood products can compete in terms of stability and service life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The aluminium or aluminium-faced composite boards are also worth considering for painted applications (no wood grain, yay!), but you will need to delve into how to prime aluminium properly prior to paint application. It's not technically any more difficult than priming most other metals but for best results specialised primers should be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Water-and-boil-proof, an older classification for waterproof/water-resistant plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-02-27T09:00:52.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5599" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5601" CreationDate="2017-02-27T19:47:51.083" Score="8" ViewCount="23087" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I got some cheap chisels and they're all ground to different angles and I want to correct this on the bench grinder. I am going to do this free hand, I might build a jig. But I want to know what is a good angle to shoot for. Which I know is 25°. But I want to know a little better why it is not a good idea to go steeper. I say it is not a good idea because no website seems to explain why it is just 'bad' or something. I also want to know what each angle is used for. Like how might 20° benefit over 30°. All in all I want to know what angle will give a super cut. Like a hot knife through butter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2021-10-08T16:34:45.353" LastActivityDate="2021-10-08T16:34:45.353" Title="To what angle should I sharpen my chisel?" Tags="|chisel|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5599" CreationDate="2017-02-27T20:41:50.480" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, the biggest factor is fragility of the edge. A sharper angle will dull faster and is more likely to chip. So, it really depends on what your use is. For heavy gouges I use with a mallet, I may use angles over 30°. Chisels for mortising hinges on a door, mid 20s. For hand-held chasing of purfling ledges on a guitar build, the angle may be closer to 20°. In situations like this, the chisel is acting more as a knife. All these are approximations, my anality stops [just] short of actually measuring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My typical sharpening scheme begins with grinding on a wet-wheel to produce a somewhat sharper angle than I want when done. For the final honing on a stone, I use a guide with the blade set to a slightly heavier angle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2762" LastActivityDate="2017-02-27T20:41:50.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5599" CreationDate="2017-02-27T20:59:56.210" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The sharper the angle, the sharper the chisel and the better it will slice through the wood fibers. However, this comes at the cost of durability. The steeper the angle, the more durable is the edge (since you have more metal behind the edge). As you can imagine, the angle is a matter of compromise - sharper or more durable. 25 degrees is a good middle point, so that's why it's typically used from the factory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should choose the compromise point based on your needs and the task at hand. End grain paring will require a sharper edge and it's typically done with hand pressure only, so a sharper angle (20 degrees or even sharper) will work well. For mortise cutting in side grain, where the cut doesn't have to be super clean, and you pound at the chisel with a mallet you might prefer 30 degrees or even steeper. For general work chisels the 25 degrees should work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can afford to have multiple chisels, each set sharpened to a different angle (20 degrees for paring, 30 for heavy work, 25 for in-between), you can use the right tool for the job. If you have only a single set the default 25 degrees bevel should typically be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastEditorUserId="10942" LastEditDate="2021-10-06T22:37:06.590" LastActivityDate="2021-10-06T22:37:06.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5593" CreationDate="2017-02-27T23:20:15.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, if this were a woodworking question, which it should have been, there are a few standard answers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Add an apron, i.e. a frame of boards surrounding the table just below the top.  These often have drawers in them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Add eight corbels around the base of the table.  These are small braces often make to look decorative.  They are surprisingly effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Add cross pieces near the bottom of the two shorter sides and add a vertical piece between them the length of the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="309" LastActivityDate="2017-02-27T23:20:15.373" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="37" CreationDate="2017-02-27T23:28:20.963" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do it with a router IF you route each piece before assembly.  Route the long edge with the preferred profile, then route the hidden ends with a bit that produces the reverse profile.  These bits are called a cope and stick set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="309" LastActivityDate="2017-02-27T23:28:20.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5599" CreationDate="2017-02-27T23:31:02.097" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I want to know what is a good angle to shoot for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;25° is the standard (almost universal) grind angle for a bevel, on plane irons as well as chisels, but few people &lt;em&gt;sharpen&lt;/em&gt; either at that angle. Or more accurately few people &lt;em&gt;hone&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;whet&lt;/em&gt; their edges at that angle&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can hone at this same angle as well if the usage won't punish that thinner edge (e.g. with chisels, not regularly chopping into hard woods) but it's the norm in the West to hone most tools at a slightly steeper angle than the grind angle&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, i.e. 30°. It isn't that important if this target is not met precisely. Most people when honing freehand end up with an edge anywhere in the region of 28-32° depending on the day, the size and shape of the chisel and other factors and a small difference in angle like this makes no real difference, you can't see it or feel it in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;why it is not a good idea to go steeper&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steeper cutting edges can act like they're less sharp (they're not truly less sharp but there is more resistance from the wood so it feels like it). This effect doesn't matter on most plane irons&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; but it is of vital importance when it comes to most chisels because of the way they're used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, sometimes it is a good idea to go steeper. It's quite normal for example to hone mortising chisel steeper than bench chisels because the former are driven hard into wood using a mallet or hammer and there may also be some levering out of chips, which as you can imagine could easily damage a thinner edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Like how might 20* benefit over 30*. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost no chisels for general use are honed shallower than 25°, the primary reason being the resulting fragility of the cutting edge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can however deliberately do this on chisels for specific applications, for example paring chisels may be sharpened at 20° (and very occasionally even shallower). However, be aware that you may only get away with this on chisels that are slightly better than average and/or when used mainly on softer woods. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you mention cheaper chisels specifically, as a rule with lower-cost chisels you need to sharpen conservatively so as not to end up with edges that are too fragile, i.e. that blunt too easily and/or are prone to rolling over or chipping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can test this out as you go and adjust accordingly. Begin honing at 25° and see how the edges hold up in use on the wood you're using, if they blunt or get damaged too easily it's simple the next time you hone to raise the handle slightly higher. If approximately 30° is still too fragile raise it a bit more to about 35° which will rarely not be strong enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Another way of referring to these is the primary bevel and the secondary bevel (in older texts the &quot;ground bevel&quot; and the &quot;whetted bevel&quot;). These days you'll often see reference to a microbevel but this isn't truly a distinct thing, it's basically just a particularly narrow secondary bevel regardless of what angle it's at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Different in Asia where there's usually one flat bevel on edged tools which is maintained by the user.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Most planes mount the iron bevel-down, in bevel-up planes however the bevel angle is directly tied to performance, in short the shallower the angle the lower the resistance, and the steeper you go the more resistance increases. But the quality of the planed surface also goes up as you go steeper so there's a tradeoff there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2018-11-23T09:05:06.870" LastActivityDate="2018-11-23T09:05:06.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5606" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5607" CreationDate="2017-02-28T16:07:10.453" Score="5" ViewCount="1346" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife wants a new dining room table -- a round one of about 4.5' in diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am constructing it out of rift sawn white oak. I will be using 3/4&quot; ply for the table top (MDF core) and then laminate bending white oak around the edge (circumference), possibly with a strip of walnut in there as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question has to do with the ply wood. In essence I want to create a pattern similar to this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0aMK5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0aMK5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, it appears to have 12 separate &quot;wedges&quot;, with the grain running towards the center. I have searched the web to no avail as to how to create a table top like this. So my question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do I go about cutting and assembling 12 different &quot;wedges&quot; of 3/4&quot; ply into a perfect circle?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3376" LastActivityDate="2017-02-28T16:20:26.080" Title="How to cut and join &quot;wedges&quot; of plywood to form a perfect circle" Tags="|joinery|plywood|cutting|table-making|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5606" CreationDate="2017-02-28T16:20:26.080" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't make the wedges out of plywood, but rather make them out of veneer. This allows you to have a solid tabletop, but still get the design you want. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a video series by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xoNUw-hNkxU&amp;amp;list=PL__Cj5bOsaAPYcVFBFP2ZUpbFwPUWtK4G&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GuysWoodshop&lt;/a&gt; (think this project was a viewer project on Matt Cremona's channel) showing almost exactly what you're trying to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IyswA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IyswA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;screenshot&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Screenshot taken from part 6 of his video series&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastActivityDate="2017-02-28T16:20:26.080" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5608" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-28T20:23:24.157" Score="0" ViewCount="1978" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a set of small wooden shapes like these (not exactly those shapes) using two different colours for different pieces: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.everafterguide.com/handmade-indian-18-pieces-board-star-jigsaw-puzzle-game-wooden-toy-game-brain-teasers-98b8c82a74708399.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.everafterguide.com/handmade-indian-18-pieces-board-star-jigsaw-puzzle-game-wooden-toy-game-brain-teasers-98b8c82a74708399.html&lt;/a&gt;.  It's important that the pieces are precise enough that they a large number will fit together without gaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HbrdN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HbrdN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pieces&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the easiest way to do that?  In particular, what kind of wood should be used?  What techniques are equipment are involved?  I'd like to keep it as simple as possible, but fancy equipment is available if it's needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3378" LastEditorUserId="3378" LastEditDate="2017-03-01T06:55:24.810" LastActivityDate="2019-05-10T13:09:32.120" Title="How to make small wooden toy pieces" Tags="|technique|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5609" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5610" CreationDate="2017-03-01T00:31:13.790" Score="2" ViewCount="1088" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to build a jig to speed up production of a furniture item.  The jig will hold a piece steady while the user hand-drills a hole in a certain spot.  I want to use a steel bushing to guide the drill bit so that the hole is straight.  The bushing will be 3/4&quot; long with a 1/4&quot; ID, for guiding a 1/4&quot; bit.  My question is, will this be damaging to the bit?  I'm thinking that the cutting is done with the point, which never touches the bushing, and the flutes that do touch it just collect the waste, so it would be okay.  What do you say?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3381" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2017-03-01T05:32:15.677" LastActivityDate="2017-03-01T08:31:41.840" Title="Will a steel guide bushing harm a drill bit?" Tags="|drilling|tool-maintenance|jig|drill-bits|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5609" CreationDate="2017-03-01T00:45:17.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is fine and commonly done in industry. The &quot;sides&quot; of the drill bit, more precisely the &lt;em&gt;margin&lt;/em&gt; of the &lt;em&gt;flute land&lt;/em&gt; is not designed to cut, but rather to clear chips from the sides of the hole and prevent the bit from binding in the hole. The margin is ground at an angle very close to tangential (and often not ground at all).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drill bushings are a standard tool and die component:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8vdsC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8vdsC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;available for example here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.zoro.com/value-brand-drill-bushing-type-h-drill-size-h-h326hp/i/G3097355/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.zoro.com/value-brand-drill-bushing-type-h-drill-size-h-h326hp/i/G3097355/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are generally made from hardened steel, to withstand repeated use without excessive wear. They are often pressed into a tool plate or jig at the desired hole position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your application only called for a small number of uses, regular steel (e.g. 1018 cold-rolled steel) might serve just fine. But if it's for production use, a purchased item will likely be better and more economical than what you can produce yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that a drill bushing for a 1/4&quot; drill may not be precisely 0.250&quot; internal diameter. In this case, perhaps 0.252&quot; is more appropriate. A bushing hole with insufficient clearance will cause excessive drill margin wear. A purchased item will have thought all that through for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other considerations when using drill bushings, like where the chips go and so on. Here's one resource with some discussion on that. Many others are easily found on search now that you have the right technical term :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.carrlane.com/catalog/index.cfm/29425071F0B221118070C1C513906103E0B05543B0B012009083C3B285350414A2D020609090C0015312A36515F56455B&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.carrlane.com/catalog/index.cfm/29425071F0B221118070C1C513906103E0B05543B0B012009083C3B285350414A2D020609090C0015312A36515F56455B&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastEditorUserId="2779" LastEditDate="2017-03-01T00:52:13.773" LastActivityDate="2017-03-01T00:52:13.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5608" CreationDate="2017-03-01T01:42:31.723" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now, if you do want those or very similar shapes (all straight-parallel-sided) rather than general interlocking shapes, there are efficient ways to cut them using straight-cutting saws. Rip a strip, miter chunks off the strip using a stop. But you said not those shapes, so...more generally:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If still in straight sides, but out of parallel, make jigs to hold small pieces when you need to make more cuts. Beyond straight sides and off towards jig-saw puzzle land:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much depends on the volume/speed required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the high-speed/high-volume end of the spectrum, die-cutting from plywood is possible. Not a home shop scaled operation at all. Thickness is limited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CNC routing or lasers offers excellent repeatability and interchangeability, but is limited in production rate by cutting speed. The laser burned edge may or may not be desirable in your product, and effective laser cutting depth is limited. Router cutting depth is also limited but rarely an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simplest possible would be someone with a coping saw or scrollsaw, a pattern and care. What is usually referred to as a jigsaw these days is not much good for jigsaw puzzles - I think the modern scroll saw more closely resembles what it was when the name was coined. Those are virtually all die-cut cardboard now, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3334" LastActivityDate="2017-03-01T01:42:31.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5596" CreationDate="2017-03-01T02:15:05.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since most of what you ave admitted to does not seem to be aimed a &quot;wood&quot; signs, particularly, I would suggest not using any type of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are durable, exterior-grade, paintable foams made explicitly for the sign-making trade. They can be routed for relief/3d signs but they don't have any tendency to rot or warp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of &quot;woods&quot;, waterproof Medium Density Overlay (MDO) is probably the most suitable/consistent product. It's a lot heavier than the foams. It has a completely smooth/flat surface (unlike plywood.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3334" LastActivityDate="2017-03-01T02:15:05.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5586" CreationDate="2017-03-01T02:26:18.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With sides at least 1.5 inches thick, a major-league tongue and groove joint (or a sliding dovetail if you are feeling fancy) would allow you to assemble the sides in place without having to tip them up into place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit, add: If you wanted to minimize the visual effect on the live edge, use a stopped groove/loose tenon/groove joint and cut it apart with a very fine-kerf saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3334" LastEditorUserId="3334" LastEditDate="2017-03-01T02:31:28.987" LastActivityDate="2017-03-01T02:31:28.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5608" CreationDate="2017-03-01T04:13:40.323" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got one of these puzzles for my niece. Use solid wood since edges will be seen. Pieces of 1&quot; nominal thicknes (3/4&quot; actual) thickness would be easier to obtain although 1/2&quot; would feel somewhat better. Boards 2&quot; to 4&quot; wide will do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use hardwoods. The version of the puzzle I got uses several species of exotic, probably tropical, woods. But, assuming you are in the US, you could readily obtain maple, walnut and oak. Best bet for appearance and choice might be to shop for 1/2&quot; boards online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my puzzle, the pieces that have inside angle have been glued together from separate pieces. This means all straight cuts in fabricating. Glue these up before slightly rounding edge when finishing. If you have access to a bandsaw, that would be my tool of choice. But it would also be easy to do this all by hand. For this, use a fine toothed Japanese-type pull saw. You can find these at many hardware stores, Bear makes a commonly found version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fit the pieces before gluing the compound-pieces with the interior angles. You cand do this by running the edges over sandpaper held flat on your bench. This will not produce great square edges so avoid this on the edges you will glue; it will be satisfactory for the other edges. When you sand in this way, hold the piece as low as possible, in the center of the length being sanded, keep it vertical an avoide rocking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My puzzle appear to ne finished with shellac but a wipe-on poly will do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, I would do the base and rim after completing the fitted pieces to fine-tune the overall fit. It's alway easier drawing to an outside straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2762" LastActivityDate="2017-03-01T04:13:40.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5615" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-01T06:37:26.827" Score="4" ViewCount="4647" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can sawdust be toxic if you're breathing it a lot and it's all over your house and furniture? Vacuuming does not seem to get rid of all the sawdust on the couch, bed, comforters, &lt;em&gt;in&lt;/em&gt; computers (!) etc., etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More context: We are renting an old house, managed by a leasing company (that thus far seems to have been hiring rando's from Home Depot). Disappointed that they gave the keys to someone who started sanding and sawing a bunch of sticky and jammed doors without covering up the furniture beforehand. (We arrived home to find a stranger working on the doors.) Now there's sawdust everywhere... Vacuuming only does so much. This is an old house and I'm not sure if the saw dust is safe or toxic? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3382" LastActivityDate="2017-03-01T09:13:58.470" Title="Sawdust all over house and furniture from old house modifications - toxic?" Tags="|wood|sawdust|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5609" CreationDate="2017-03-01T08:31:41.840" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Answer needs to be 30 characters long so I can't leave it at that much as I'd like to :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-03-01T08:31:41.840" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5615" CreationDate="2017-03-01T09:13:58.470" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related info in previous Q&amp;amp;As:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/353/what-kind-of-wood-dust-is-toxic-dangerous-and-requires-usage-of-dust-mask&quot;&gt;What kind of wood dust is toxic/dangerous and requires usage of dust mask?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3127/can-wood-dust-cause-irritation-to-other-people-in-the-house&quot;&gt;Can wood dust cause irritation to other people in the house?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4042/do-i-need-to-worry-about-wood-dust-for-very-small-scale-manual-sanding&quot;&gt;Do I need to worry about wood dust for very small-scale manual sanding?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not just wood dust you're dealing with here either, since there's sure to be dust from the paint or other finishes applied to the wood and a little glue from the construction of the doors. In actual fact they may be much more of a health worry than the wood particles that form the bulk of the dust, particularly as it's an old house — there could well be some remaining lead paint o_O&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Vacuuming does not seem to get rid of all the sawdust on the couch, bed, comforters, in computers (!) etc., etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You just need to be persistent and thorough, and empty the vacuum cleaner regularly. You will eventually get it all, just as everyone who has ever cleaned up after building work eventually does get rid of all the dust. It just takes &lt;em&gt;way&lt;/em&gt; longer than you're initially expecting because you have to do everywhere more than once. Three times seems to be the magic number in my experience. Consider yourself lucky it's not plaster dust which is much finer (DAMHIK).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Point to bear in mind is that dust is only an issue if you're touching it or, particularly, if you're inhaling it. If there's dust remaining in crevices around the home where it isn't easily disturbed to become airborne then you really don't have to worry about it any longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re. the dust in the computer specifically, this isn't a direct risk to you since it will pretty much stay there. However, &lt;em&gt;it is a potential fire hazard&lt;/em&gt;, at the least it may fry the computer without causing a fire that would spread so you should make a point of cleaning them (more on this below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unrelated to the woodworking side of things but I want to say something about it and the Comments don't allow enough space. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was a rental tenant for many years and I'm sure your 'landlord', the leasing company, will have violated the lease agreement by letting someone in without your prior consent. The agreement might even specify that you needed prior notice in writing a certain amount of time before the work needed to be done (to give you time to tidy, lock up valuables etc.). Never mind that it was just some random bod hired outside HD which just makes it worse!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Disappointed that they gave the keys to someone who started sanding and sawing a bunch of sticky and jammed doors without covering up the furniture beforehand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Disappointed&quot; wouldn't begin to cover how I'd feel about it :-) I would be fuming if this happened to me and I wouldn't be shy about telling them so on the phone, or in person if necessary to get the point across. &lt;em&gt;They gave an unvetted stranger access to your home&lt;/em&gt;, say it like that if you're not getting any traction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people will tell you you should get the place professionally cleaned and present them with the bill. Ditto a bill for cleaning the computer, which you can do yourself (many guides online to explain and show you how) but may prefer to get done by a pro so you don't risk damaging it, or voiding your warranty. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted to, you may even be within your rights to break the lease and leave early (without penalty) over this, but local regs and the lease agreement you signed will determine that. Note that the former may take precedence over the latter, it does over here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2017-03-01T09:13:58.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5608" CreationDate="2017-03-01T10:01:25.527" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is the easiest way to do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'd like to keep it as simple as possible, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Easiest and simple conflict here unfortunately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simplest and cheapest way to do this if you don't already own suitable tools involves no powered equipment. Fair warning, it won't be the fastest, but if you get a production line going and just plug away you'll get through the sawing surprisingly quickly (one evening, easy). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finishing off the pieces and applying a finish will likely take much much longer, but that will take a similar amount of time regardless of the cutting method used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can buy the wood you need in strips of the right thickness and width all you need is some scrap wood (for sawing practice prior to cutting your main wood, and for making the jig that will allow you to do accurate repeat cuts), a sharp knife and steel rule, and one good hand saw. A clamp or two would be helpful but not vital.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't buy the wood in the right dimensions you'll need some way to produce the initial strips and this is not an easy thing by hand since it's very challenging to saw with the necessary accuracy. The best power tool for doing the work is the table saw, which your comments indicate may be available. Best method may be to buy thick, wide stock and then rip long strips from the edges on the table saw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have your strips you'll make a type of &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1321/whats-a-bench-hook/1327#1327&quot;&gt;bench hook&lt;/a&gt; or a mitre box. If you don't have clamps you can use glue or nails instead to fix a stop block that will ensure consistent piece sizes as you feed your strips into the cutting jig. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4nMmmD9n8gE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Making a Poor Man's Mitre Box with Paul Sellers &lt;/a&gt; for the basic methodology used to make either jig. You just need to cut your groove in the back fence at a shallower angle than 45° but other than that you can make it exactly as shown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Type of saw&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Fine-toothed is the main thing you want here, so that the cut face requires minimal sanding or planing to finish it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ideal &lt;em&gt;type&lt;/em&gt; of saw here would be the subject of intense debate amongst woodworkers, with traditionalists saying that you should use a Western backsaw of some kind and those who have embraced the variety available to us today probably recommending a Japanese saw. Read a little more about the differences here, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1532/comparison-of-western-saws-and-japanese-saws&quot;&gt;Comparison of Western saws and Japanese Saws&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be a little more accurate here I should say an Asian-style pull saw rather than a Japanese saw since many are not actually made in Japan and similar saws are seen all over Asia. You want one with cross-cut teeth (they will look like the smaller ones in &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cin7b.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this image&lt;/a&gt;, the larger, plainer, teeth at the bottom are rip teeth for cutting along the grain).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some possibly relevant info in these previous Answers:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3509/are-there-techniques-to-sand-small-parts-on-a-benchtop-belt-sander/3528#3528&quot;&gt;Are there techniques to sand small parts on a benchtop belt sander?&lt;/a&gt; (note Answers don't focus on using a belt sander)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1846/planing-thin-stock-without-the-aid-of-bench-dogs/1860?s=4|0.0600#1860&quot;&gt;Planing thin stock without the aid of bench dogs&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In particular, what kind of wood should be used? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost anything you want. Really anything short of balsa would probably be fine, even pine or cedar which are both quite soft would work acceptably well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in general hardwoods will hold up to use better, arguably look better and more easily give you the contrasting colours you seek (no staining required). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A sensible combo here would be black walnut for the darker pieces and maple for the lighter ones, although there are numerous suitable choices for the lighter wood if maple is too expensive or not available, e.g. butternut, birch, sycamore, poplar, mango, ramin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2017-03-01T10:01:25.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5619" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5625" CreationDate="2017-03-01T23:36:57.527" Score="4" ViewCount="26203" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently in the process of renewing an old wooden floor. What would one use to fill in the gaps between the planks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jhTW9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jhTW9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've asked in the local home repair store and they gave me a silicone like mass that resembles the color of the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That seems to work ok for the nail holes, but is kind of soft and somewhat expensive for filling out all space between the boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen some youtube videos in which people are mixing sand dust with either wood glue or some special liquid. Does anyone know something on the pros and conns of these approaches?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3384" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-03-01T23:56:19.180" LastActivityDate="2023-09-19T13:08:42.537" Title="FIlling up gaps in an old wooden floor" Tags="|finishing|glue|wood-repair|wood-movement|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5619" CreationDate="2017-03-01T23:55:23.483" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do not want to fill the joints between the boards.  The gap provides room for expansion which normally occurs across the width and depth of wood over the seasons.  The amount of expansion can be calculated.  (See the tag wiki info under the wood-movement tag for links to tables for how to do so.)  A flexible sealant may be used but it will bulge in some gaps as the wood expands. The screw holes can be covered and your proposed methods will work as will some manufactured wood putty products that can be found in hardware or woodworking stores and websites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2017-03-01T23:55:23.483" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5608" CreationDate="2017-03-02T00:55:32.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a similar puzzle over christmas - at least for the diamond shapes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lm7HZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lm7HZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(picture somewhat misleading - the blocks fit in together tightly but there is a gap around the edge of the base so they can fit together loosely - this is a kids toy)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had to make 5 puzzles (about 80 diamonds + some spares) so needed to stream line the process as much as possible. As you can see from your picture, the diamonds when lined up actually form a straight strip - this makes them easy to batch cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v85eV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v85eV.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I picked scrap wood with a straight grain as possible. In this case I had some black wood handy so used that.  Didn't matter for me too much what they looked like as I was going to be painting them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In hind sight I would have used a lighter coloured wood to make painting easier. As you aren't painting yours I would suggest picking wood with better/more consistent grain&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZeOHo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZeOHo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wood was cut with a table saw blade tilted to 45° using a cross cut sled for safety/consistency. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used a stop block to keep the pieces at the exact same length. This stop block was a cut-off from the same setup so I had a diagonal hole to register the end of the previous cut in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used a hold down block + a vertical toggle clamp above the strip of wood currently being cut to keep it locked in place so I could keep my hands well away from the blade. (Important when doing many repetitive cuts).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After each cut, the &quot;bevel&quot; of the diamond left by the previous cut would fit into the stop block for the next cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This setup let me cut ~100 diamonds in short order safely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OgafE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OgafE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="282" LastEditorUserId="282" LastEditDate="2017-03-19T22:25:16.993" LastActivityDate="2017-03-19T22:25:16.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5619" CreationDate="2017-03-02T08:53:12.263" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm currently in the process of renewing an old wooden floor. What would one use to fill in the gaps between the planks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing unless there's a draft problem. The gaps aren't generally an issue except visually but they can make for a cold floor depending on the rest of the structure of the house and how much air movement can take place through the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some argue such gaps are supposed to be there, and if you look at old floors 99 times out of 100 you'll see gaps between boards, sometimes quite wide ones, and in many cases there's no filler and no trace that there ever was any present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past where gaps were filled they used various methods, including the same way gaps were dealt with on ship decks, using oakum and tar (!), as well as with melted wax or wax/resin compositions (also used as a filler material for furniture in this era).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See more discussion on the issue and solutions at these links:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thisoldhouse.com/how-to/how-to-fill-gaps-wide-plank-wood-floor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Fill Gaps In a Wide-Plank Wood Floor&lt;/a&gt; on This Old House.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.quora.com/My-homes-pine-flooring-has-large-gaps-in-between-some-of-the-planks-especially-in-the-kitchen-What-can-be-done-to-fill-or-seal-them&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;My home's pine flooring has large gaps in between some of the planks, especially in the kitchen. What can be done to fill or seal them?&lt;/a&gt; on Quora.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/how-to-fill-gaps-in-a-wood-floor-32458-.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to fill gaps in a wood floor?&lt;/a&gt; on HomeOwnersHub.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?110113-Filler-for-ancient-wood-floors&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Filler for ancient wood floors?&lt;/a&gt; on the WoodenBoat forum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've asked in the local home repair store and they gave me a silicone like mass that resembles the color of the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That seems to work ok for the nail holes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That stuff is no good for filling nail holes on a floor. This type of flexible filler is for filling gaps that require some movement to take place without cracking, as in gappy installations of skirting to walls, one wooden moulding piece to the next where some shrinkage and expansion will take place through the year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you must fill the nail holes (you don't have to, it's quite normal for them not to be filled) you want a rigid filler and ideally a strong one if it's to take direct foot traffic, i.e. if there's no carpet going on or any rugs being put down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2017-03-02T08:53:12.263" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5619" CreationDate="2017-03-02T14:18:58.237" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The old school way I have seen to fill large gaps in wide plank flooring is with rope:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1 Scrape debris from between flooring planks with putty knife or painter's tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2 Vacuum floor clean of all dust and debris.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;3 If desired, tint rope with wood stain to match floor; let dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;4 Force rope into gap between planks with putty knife or painter's&#xA;  tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This minimizes what can get caught in the gap, stops drafts, while allowing for wood expansion and contraction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thisoldhouse.com/how-to/how-to-fill-gaps-wide-plank-wood-floor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This Old House&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastActivityDate="2017-03-02T14:18:58.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5627" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-02T14:50:10.267" Score="4" ViewCount="695" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a fairly amateur woodworker, and I'd like to make a particular box, a picture of which I keep seeing floating around. It seems reasonably simple, but I'm struggling a little with the legs. Two sides are straight, and the front is curved.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xO95y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xO95y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/assets/pictures/projects/341673.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://lumberjocks.com/assets/pictures/projects/341673.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not entirely sure how to do this, and there are no plans - just a picture. Anyone have thoughts? Router? Jig? Something else entirely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3388" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-03-02T16:28:42.947" LastActivityDate="2017-03-02T18:43:50.447" Title="Cutting curved box legs" Tags="|tools|boxes|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5627" CreationDate="2017-03-02T15:09:43.987" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is that once you've cut your first curve you lose that side as a flat, square reference surface for cutting the second curve with a bandsaw/router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get around this easily by starting with your squared stock a couple of inches longer than the finished length. Draw the curves on the inside faces and cut out with a bandsaw. Don't cut (too much) into the extra lengths at each end - leave them square so you can use them to register against the bandsaw bed for cutting the second curve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also make the curved cuts with a coping saw in which case the extra lengths at the ends can be used for clamping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finish by taking out the saw marks with a spokeshave or block plane and cutting to length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a crude image to show you what it would look like after the first curve was cut:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I6ylX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I6ylX.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3343" LastEditorUserId="3343" LastEditDate="2017-03-02T15:22:32.220" LastActivityDate="2017-03-02T15:22:32.220" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5627" CreationDate="2017-03-02T16:33:53.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having just completed a series of decorative boxes with many variations on your curved legs I found that the easiest way to establish the curves for small pieces was to mark the curves on the blocks and use a belt sander table to define the curves on each face.  I can also see using a hand saw or band saw to cut the curves and then filing and sanding them to a finished surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2017-03-02T16:33:53.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5627" CreationDate="2017-03-02T18:43:50.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Power tools&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I guess the standard way to do this sort of thing these days is with a bandsaw. And keeping the first waste piece cut from each piece can prove very helpful with this method so that you can tape it back into position to provide support for the piece when you cut the second curve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as the wood isn't too hard or the legs too big I think you could do much the same using a scroll saw, even though they are not ideally suited to cuts of this kind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not that I'd recommend it but the entire shaping job could be done using a belt sander, starting with a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; coarse grit (i.e. nothing finer than 60).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hand tools&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In theory the same basic method as used with the bandsaw could be used with any curve-cutting hand saw (e.g. jigsaw or bow saw) as long as you can work out a suitable way to hold the workpieces for cutting, using one or more clamps or a vice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But because these are relatively small and not complex like a cabriole leg I'd be tempted to do this type and amount of shaping without recourse to a saw. There are a few options here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a 2&quot;/50mm chisel to hog off the bulk of the wood that needs to be removed and then refine using a spokeshave.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do all the work with a spokeshave. Relatively slow but definitely doable if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Scrub/roughing plane to waste the majority of the wood and then switch to a smoothing plane or block plane to complete the shaping. With a bit of practice this is a surprisingly fast method (only minutes per side) and if you do the smooth-planing well no further work would be needed on the curved surfaces and the legs would be ready for finishing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use one or more rasps to remove the bulk of the wood, then switch to files to smooth. I wouldn't recommend this method as it would be the most labour intensive and slowest, but it is possible to do it this way if other tools aren't available. Make sure you've had your Wheaties that morning if you go this route!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Final smoothing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Regardless of the shaping method chosen as much final smoothing as is needed could be done with some combination of file work, scraping and sanding (sand using a firm block to protect against accidentally rounding corners). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously a stationary belt sander could be used for this as well if you have one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Templates for consistency&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In all cases a cut out template in stout card or hardboard would be a very good idea. For the bandsaw method this becomes your master template to draw the required shape on each facet of every leg, and for the hand-tool methods it can be held against the legs during shaping to check progress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-03-02T18:43:50.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5631" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-03T00:23:27.223" Score="2" ViewCount="22802" Body="&lt;p&gt;My circular saw, Riobi, tracks to the left.  Even with a guide clamped to the work piece I can't cut a straight line.  What's up with that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3387" LastActivityDate="2017-03-03T17:50:06.940" Title="My circular saw won't cut straight" Tags="|circular-saw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2017-03-03T23:41:50.060" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5631" CreationDate="2017-03-03T08:39:18.573" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As already mentioned in the Comments above this may be a duplicate of a previous thread and the replies there could help you solve the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't a diagnosis or a solution but a workaround that you may be able to take advantage of with the saw running exactly as-is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your saw tracks to the left clamp the guide on the left side of the saw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That way the current drift of the saw will pull it firmly against the guide board and not away from it, almost ensuring a straight cut. I believe a similar idea is used by some jigsaw owners, although jigsaws are lower in power and cut more slowly the basic principle may still work here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-03-03T08:39:18.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5631" CreationDate="2017-03-03T17:12:48.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started out with a cheap Ryobi circular saw, and I had the same issue.  I eventually realized that the base plate was not parallel to the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest taking a measurement from the edge of the base plate to the front of the blade and comparing it to the distance from the edge of the base plate to the back of the blade.  (For the most accurate measurement make sure you rotate the blade and measure to the same tooth both times.)  If they're not identical then you know that is the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My solution was to throw it out and buy a track saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2017-03-03T17:50:06.940" LastActivityDate="2017-03-03T17:50:06.940" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5634" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5636" CreationDate="2017-03-03T21:32:24.153" Score="5" ViewCount="7941" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got this oiled butcher block counter top yesterday, and I'm planning to on one end glue it to a another part of the same wood, cut shorter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard that glue won't stick well on oiled wood, is this true? Is there any special kind of glue that works better, or a treatment I can apply to get it to stick better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sides will be glued together on the long side, seen on the left in the image below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will fasten both pieces of wood to the counter below, so the glue won't be carrying much weight, but it would still be nice if I could get a seamless transition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QN0kz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QN0kz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Butcher block countertop&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3397" LastActivityDate="2017-03-03T23:48:49.490" Title="Is it hopeless to glue together two parts of oiled butcher block countertop?" Tags="|wood|glue|butcher-block|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5634" CreationDate="2017-03-03T22:14:57.200" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, if you plan on gluing the end grain edges together, the joint will not be reliable itself.  You could cut and insert a spline into both pieces or use biscuits, as is often done in laminated counter-tops. Since the splines would be into unoiled, wood glue adherence will not be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For any joints into the side grain (your left side face), I would recommend sanding the surface with a course paper or planing approx. 1/16&quot; off of the oiled faces.  The oiled surfaces will reject the glue (oil and water don't mix) but the oil does not penetrate very deep and removing the outer surface will provide enough contact surface for effective gluing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2017-03-03T22:14:57.200" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5634" CreationDate="2017-03-03T23:48:49.490" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have heard that glue won't stick well on oiled wood, is this true? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes that's right. The oil resists the glue intermingling with the surface wood fibres which prevents the formation of a proper bond with the wood. This is true with all glues, but is particularly a problem with waterbased glues such as PVA (both white and yellow types).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there any special kind of glue that works better, or a treatment I can apply to get it to stick better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally you either degrease the wood or you remove some material from the surface to expose fresh wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can degrease by literally washing the wood down with warm soapy water but it's often done these days by wiping down with organic solvents. If you're thorough with either method you will eventually get an oil-free surface suitable for glue, but it's arguably a better idea to physically remove the oil-contaminated wood (ideally by planing it off with a hand plane).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On long-grain surfaces oil won't have soaked very deeply into the wood — even &quot;deep&quot; penetration is merely tenths of a millimetre/hundredths of an inch on long-grain surfaces — but this is still quite a bit of material to remove by sanding which is why it's probably not a viable method. Planing or scraping are far faster and leave a better glue surface anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-03-03T23:48:49.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5639" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-04T13:22:13.990" Score="1" ViewCount="55" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife bought some 3 cubic meters of wood from the construction site two streets away (unfortunately they had to fall a few trees). The sort was unknown, as she saw it first when it was already cut to logs. Because of characteristic bark, we could recognize a few as locust, other - no clue. We live in Germany, so there is a good chance that these were European trees. One of this has pretty nice colouration in crosscut and also is quite hard (see pictures, diameter ~25cm/10&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be very happy if anybody could name it, but even more if you could share a link to a database with good quality pictures. I know only about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;www.wood-database.com&lt;/a&gt; but unfortunately there are mostly pictures of cut timber (in some cases only burl) but none of cross-sections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4j2dd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4j2dd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cross-section&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xb0Kn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xb0Kn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bark&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;p.s.&lt;/em&gt; google-search after wood cross-section is a nightmare. Most of the pictures have wrong labels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3399" LastActivityDate="2017-03-04T13:22:13.990" Title="recognizing wood -- good database" Tags="|wood-species|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2017-03-04T20:03:26.563" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5640" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5643" CreationDate="2017-03-05T18:14:20.977" Score="1" ViewCount="706" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made a small frame with a 'front door' to cover an electrical fuse box.  I went to great pains to get the frame flat and square. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However when I came to fix it to the (plastered/stucco) wall it turns out the wall of far from flat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd welcome some suggestions on how to try to adapt my frame to fit the wall profile better   (Other than a load of silicone filler)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2879" LastActivityDate="2017-03-05T23:39:20.047" Title="Profile straight edge to a skew wall" Tags="|technique|wood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5641" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-05T19:18:53.737" Score="3" ViewCount="25603" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two questions: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) What Base-Coat do you recommend&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) What Cristal Clear top coat do you recommend&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Background:&#xA;I was at a craft show, and a guy that made wood signs for outdoor patios was there. He had very nice signs. He said he could make a custom sign for me. It's been over three weeks, and a few emails/calls... he has disappeared from the face of the earth... so I am going to tackle the job myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recall he described using Auto paints, then coating with an Automotive Clear Coat... and his signs really &quot;popped!&quot; I mean his geckos’, Bird, they had a great shinny Depth to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SO, I want to make a &quot;Campsite Sign.&quot; It will be on a wooden post, outside for one or two weeks every few months. So not too much weathering. But, will get moderate rain &amp;amp; Sun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I intend to: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;use a marine grade 2ft x 2ft finished top-grade plywood &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;bevel the edges for better/even coating &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;sand all smooth &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;apply a Base or Sealer coat (&lt;strong&gt;U recommend which?&lt;/strong&gt;) &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;brush paint with Rustoleum Gloss paints &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;apply a &quot;Cristal Clear top-coat&quot; that will give a rich/pop look (&lt;strong&gt;U recommend which?&lt;/strong&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd prefer base/primer and Clear top-coat to be buyable local, (Depot, Lowes, etc) but ordering is okay if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will be using Brushes, as I don't have a sprayer, and don't do this enough to invest in one now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other Tips-n-Hints gladly accepted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your imput.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paul L.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Florida&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rHOIY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rHOIY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pic of how I envision my sign to look like&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3401" LastActivityDate="2018-12-24T14:06:30.417" Title="Sealer and Clear Top-Coat for wooden sign/art" Tags="|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5640" CreationDate="2017-03-05T20:14:04.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your frame is made of wood you could plane the areas that keep the rest of the frame out from the wall. Or you can trim the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had this same problem installing oak trim around windows. The interior edge detail was sheetrock jambs meeting sheetrock walls with spackled beaded corners. I removed the metal corners. But, mostly due to use of green studs in construction, the trim would not lie flat against the wall. I dealt with it like so. I lightly marked (erasable) the boundary of the trim piece. Using a straight edge, I determined which areas were high. I then cut along the wall, along the edge of where the trim would fit, in the high regions.  Using a Stanley Surform &quot;rasp-plane&quot;, I carefully sanded away the high spots. I stayed away from the very edge with the Sureform, trimming it by hand with a chisel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This worked very well for me. I suppose it depends on how much out of true your wall is. Also, in my case, the trim was about 5/8&quot; thick so the difference in projecting out from the wall would be less noticeable than if your frame was only, say, 1/4&quot; thick in projection. Needless to say, this is a rather permanent fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2762" LastActivityDate="2017-03-05T20:14:04.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5640" CreationDate="2017-03-05T23:39:20.047" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you're looking to do is called &lt;em&gt;scribing to fit&lt;/em&gt; and it's a standard part of most fitting of wooden elements to uneven walls. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At minimum it can be used to get the edge to mate neatly against a wall that's a little out of plumb, next level above that would a surface that's slightly wavy and at the extreme end a very irregular or bumpy surface like a brick wall. In each case the basic marking-out technique can be very simple and straightforward, it's just the amount of work needed, and possibly the tools required, to remove the excess wood that changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a few of the common ways to scribe an edge:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DfrIj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DfrIj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Scribing to fit&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For removing the excess wood the tools needed change depending on how much and what type of shaping is required. At the simplest end just a hand plane will do (or a saw), for wavy edges a spokeshave, rasps and/or files, and for extremely irregular edges it's now common to use a jigsaw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic scribing process is simple but the details of applying it to various situations can take a bit to get your head around so it's best to read through a few detailed guides so you're clear on what's involved:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.familyhandyman.com/tools/how-to-scribe-for-a-perfect-fit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Scribe for a Perfect Fit&lt;/a&gt; on The Family Handyman.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carpentry-tips-and-tricks.com/how-to-scribe.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to scribe timber for a perfect fit&lt;/a&gt; on Carpentry Tips and Tricks.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thediyworld.co.uk/scribing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Learn how to scribe&lt;/a&gt; on The DIY World.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-03-05T23:39:20.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5644" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6962" CreationDate="2017-03-06T20:30:11.297" Score="4" ViewCount="1097" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'am interrested in making kumiko, but I don't know how to make wood ramrods from the wood plank ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have access to a table saw a ruban saw and to usual wood tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to know how to proceed to avoid a lot of wasted wood and preserve the rectitude of the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3405" LastEditorUserId="3405" LastEditDate="2017-03-21T16:00:30.567" LastActivityDate="2018-02-15T19:53:13.250" Title="How to cut a wood plank to make kumiko ramrods?" Tags="|cutting|cut|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5645" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5647" CreationDate="2017-03-06T21:20:19.667" Score="3" ViewCount="1633" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a special tool/setup for achieving a consistent thickness of thin stock that leaves a planed/smooth finish? Something like I imagine is used for Kumiko members? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l6hFk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l6hFk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tanihata.co.jp/english/kumiko/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.tanihata.co.jp/english/kumiko/index.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I roughly imagine something like a thickness planer except without the spinning blade. Or maybe there's a way to clamp blocks to the side of a plane or something such that the blade no longer engages when the target thickness is achieved?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like there would need to be some sort of mechanism in the role the pressure rollers play in a thickness planer, to keep the thin stock from being lifted off the bench or reference surface in response to the planing action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-03-06T23:08:50.730" LastActivityDate="2017-03-07T20:11:05.190" Title="Planing thin material to consistent thickness using hand tools" Tags="|hand-tools|plane|hand-planing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5646" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5648" CreationDate="2017-03-06T22:07:55.810" Score="1" ViewCount="279" Body="&lt;p&gt;Starting on a farmer's table and have it all how I want it designed, but I'm looking for assurance on my method of attaching the legs. I don't have a bountiful workshop, but I do have a table saw and dado blade!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This table top will be 8' long, 43.5&quot; wide, and 29.5&quot; high, contstructed of 2x8 boards with 2 perpendicular 2x8 ends. The apron will be constructed of 1x4s and will be 90&quot; long and 37.5&quot; wide, to allow for 3&quot; overhang of the top. There will be a brace half way along the length, and an additional 4 slats to support and help mount the top to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the legs, I intend to &quot;tendon&quot; .75&quot; x 3.5&quot; off two adjoining sided of the legs, thus notching them to slide into the corners and be flush with the apron. I can then attach an angled cut of wood across the corners, stopping horizontal movement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is then how to stop vertical movement. I am currently thinking about drilling the angled cut into the leg, screwing in a threaded rod (like a headless lag bolt?) and then keeping it secure with washer and nut. Would this work, or is there another way?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xSsRL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xSsRL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Table Leg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RI2u0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RI2u0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Table Apron&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3406" LastEditorUserId="3406" LastEditDate="2017-03-07T00:42:33.403" LastActivityDate="2017-03-08T22:33:12.947" Title="Farmer Table Legs" Tags="|furniture|design|table-making|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5645" CreationDate="2017-03-06T22:22:55.797" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can devise a jig of some kind to help in making multiple pieces of smaller size but at heart producing strips of wood like this doesn't have to be any different from getting a board to final dimensions for the face of a drawer, a shelf, the side of a bookshelf etc. etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thinner dimension does mean you have to be more careful in sizing as there's a smaller margin of error allowable, but the basic principles remain the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For pieces of small cross-section often you'll saw roughly to size from a larger board, i.e. resawing or ripping lengths from it, after that the same process you'd use to make a shelf to the size you want comes into play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You start with one face of each piece (usually you pick the one that's flattest already, sometimes the side with the best grain) which becomes your first reference or &lt;em&gt;datum&lt;/em&gt; surface — the face side. After it is flattened and smoothed then you plane an adjacent edge — the face edge — dead square to the face side. Once these are established (and marked so you don't lose track of them) you can gauge lines for width and thickness from them, then you plane to final dimensions. Working from surfaces you know to be straight and square helps in producing a finished board that's straight and square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a fundamental of hand-tool woodworking, laid out in any good book on the basics for learner woodworkers, e.g. Robert Wearing's &lt;strong&gt;The Essential Woodworker&lt;/strong&gt; which many good city libraries will have a copy of. Online, there's a very detailed show and tell of the entire process starting from rough-sawn wood available on Wood and Shop's site, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodandshop.com/square-flatten-dimension-boards/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Square, Flatten, and Dimension Rough Boards with Hand Tools&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had to produce a great number of lengths of wood to exacting standards it does become a process that perhaps is best jigged, for speed as well as to help with consistency, and actually Robert Wearing would be a fan of that sort of thing. I think he covers something applicable in one or more of his other books on jigs and workshop aids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-03-06T22:22:55.797" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5646" CreationDate="2017-03-07T03:45:07.200" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you select the &quot;Design&quot; tag and the &quot;more info&quot; button you will get a link to the sagulator which can be used to evaluate your design.  I did a quick test and it appears that the 1 1/2&quot; thick top can handle the possible loads, especially with the 3 1/2&quot; deep aprons.  I would suggest that the horizontal intermediate slats in your apron frame be turned vertical (they offer little support horizontally).  Your legs appear to be 4x4 posts.  If aprons are fully glued to the legs you may have adequate rigidity. The threaded rods would not offer as much strength as the glue would and the glued connections will not require exposed hardware on the outside.  The final test is to build it. You can always add more rigidity by adding a second slat on the other side (interior) of the legs if the design does not offer enough strength as shown in your sketch.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-03-08T22:33:12.947" LastActivityDate="2017-03-08T22:33:12.947" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5645" CreationDate="2017-03-07T19:12:19.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;EDIT:  Oops, appologies. I didn't note the &quot;hand tools&quot; in your title. If you've got a lot of this to do, a router table is the way to go (unless you have a drumb sander). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By hand, maybe try a cabinet scraper. Cut two wooden triangles from 1&quot; stock. A base-to-height ratio of 4.5&quot;:6&quot; gives a 60° angle. Cut out some of the interior so you can clamp the scraper to the angled faces. Use stock that is overly long so you can clamp the ends to your work table. Your table supports the bottom of the stock and probides a surface to run your scraper-jig over. The height at which you clamp the scraper ultimately gauges the thickness. Sharpening and burnishing a cabinet scraper is an art.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By router:&#xA;I'll assume you have a way of resawing the stock into narrow strips and are concerned about producing a smooth face. A band saw is my preference for the resawing but a well set-up table saw will do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trick with the router table is to use a fine carbide die-grinding bit in place of a standard router bit. Trap the stock between the bit and the fence and use &quot;fingers&quot; to hold the stock securely against the fence as well as keeping &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; fingers out of the bit (right image). I've made purfling for guitars paper-thin with this technique. You may have to search on-line for a quality bit. Preferably work with closed and tight grain woods. Although the rosewood in the images was anything but.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't remove a lot of material with this technique. It may take multiple passes if your resawing was fat. Be sure the bit is square to the table and parallel to the fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tz2iY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tz2iY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may note the stock here is laminated, maple on top, rosewood on the bottom. The stock to form this was also made in the manner described above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2762" LastEditorUserId="2762" LastEditDate="2017-03-07T20:11:05.190" LastActivityDate="2017-03-07T20:11:05.190" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5651" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5653" CreationDate="2017-03-08T02:00:27.953" Score="3" ViewCount="813" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently use a cheap plastic and metal workbench that is both old and showing its age.  As a result, I want to build a better bench.  The only problem is that my research is turning up that there are many styles of workbenches that have been used over the years and if I know its name (say Roubo), I can google &quot;Roubo Workbench&quot; and get all the info I want and more about that particular design.  However, I have seen lots of different pictures and there does not seem to be many names associated (at least that I can find).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, is there a reference that shows what various workbench styles are?  If such a reference exists, bonus points if it compares them to help me decide what exactly I want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="432" LastEditorUserId="2779" LastEditDate="2017-03-08T11:59:12.997" LastActivityDate="2018-09-04T09:25:09.723" Title="Is there a workbench &quot;type&quot; reference?" Tags="|workbench|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5651" CreationDate="2017-03-08T03:03:06.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you say, there is a ton of different options out there and it is hard to decide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When making mine, I bought Christopher Swartz's book &quot;The Workbench Design Book: The Art &amp;amp; Philosophy of Building Better Benches &quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1440310408&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/Workbench-Design-Book-Philosophy-Building/dp/1440310408/ref=pd_sim_14_1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XKrXB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XKrXB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This book covers a ton of information on why benches are the way that they are, and things you should be taking into consideration when you make yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He also includes plans/breakdowns of about 10 different bench styles with a section from the bench owner (not always him), talking about it's strengths, benefits and weaknesses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately I chose to build a bench not in the book, but I don't regret buying/reading it!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I built the naked woodworkers nicholson style workbench - I highly enjoy using it!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="282" LastActivityDate="2017-03-08T03:03:06.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5651" CreationDate="2017-03-08T09:32:13.287" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you read the woodworking forums there are two classic books on the subject of workbench design in English and I think both compare features and usefulness a you're hoping. The first is by Scott Landis, &lt;strong&gt;The Workbench Book&lt;/strong&gt;, the second by Christopher Schwarz, &lt;strong&gt;Workbenches: From Design And Theory To Construction And Use&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People seem divided on which of these is the better, if you're really interested I think you should read both. A local library may have one or the other if you're lucky so you wouldn't have to buy both. It doesn't get mentioned as much (don't know why) but &lt;strong&gt;The Workbench: A Complete Guide to Creating Your Perfect Bench&lt;/strong&gt; by Lon Schleining must also be mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go into Amazon and look up any of these three you'll see further related titles in the scrolling list under Customers Who Bought This Item Also Bought if you &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; want to delve into this deeply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would caution against doing much further research on this at the moment however*. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't you need bench &lt;em&gt;now&lt;/em&gt;? So my advice would be to build one now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever it is, no matter how simple the design or how basic the materials or construction are, it's sure to be miles better than the cheap metal &amp;amp; plastic bench you were using previously. What you build won't be perfect, accept that. But it doesn't have to be for the bench to work, and work well. Just make it heavyish to heavy, give it rock-solid joints to prevent racking, have the top flat and level and everything else is gravy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a dirty little secret about almost all bench types, they all work. This is somewhat obvious if you give it some thought but it's worth emphasising: THEY ALL WORK. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People tend to forget this or ignore it in their quest for the 'perfect' workbench (there isn't one). &lt;em&gt;In some other parts of the world they don't even use workbenches and they manage to get stuff built&lt;/em&gt;, it's well worth bearing that in mind when agonising which is better, a face vice or a leg vice! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's Chris Schwarz writing on this subject, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/mistakes-first-time-bench-builders/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Mistakes of First-time Bench-builders&lt;/a&gt; on Popular Woodworking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*It's all too easy to fall into the trap of over-analysing bench design, and getting paralysed by all the choices (&quot;paralysis by analysis&quot; it's called).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of us have been there! Pros and amateurs alike, comparing and contrasting design features, weighing the pros and cons of various wood choices, what joints to use (you can waste weeks just on this!), what size the top should be and last but by no means least what height the top should be. Ideal workbench height just as a subject in itself is something there are endless debates about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you take any sort of European or American bench design from say the last 300 years and you made it it would do what it's supposed to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Give you a solid base for sawing, chopping, planing etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Provide or allow for various workholding solutions (with in-built devices or by using clamps or holdfasts).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Give you a flat assembly surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you look at it this way it's easier to see how almost every bench fulfils the brief. And that the various features of one or another don't matter as much in practical terms as one might assume because &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; decent bench can allow for much the same..... if they didn't then people couldn't have used them or currently use them to produce various kinds of work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people strongly disagree with this. Take the bench type popularised by Frank Klausz and Tage Frid as an example. As vital to their working philosophy and practices as the Continental shouldered bench was it must be realised that &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; having those same 'vital' design features didn't stop their American contemporaries from doing the same work. So one man's &lt;em&gt;vital&lt;/em&gt; is another man's &lt;em&gt;don't need it&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="3352" LastEditDate="2018-09-04T09:25:09.723" LastActivityDate="2018-09-04T09:25:09.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5654" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-09T02:27:40.663" Score="1" ViewCount="3310" Body="&lt;p&gt;Finally broke down and decided to give this current fad a try. For anyone that is experienced in working with reclaimed wood, do you have any tips for edge jointing and getting a decently flat top? I want to keep as much of the character in wood as possible but still have a good solid top. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I'm working from:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HKvcL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Starting Point&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking to get to something in the neighborhood of this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aSFwj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;goa&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note,  2nd picture is from Sons of Sawdust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After searching the internet for tutorials, instructional material, it seems almost overwhelming with the amount of opinion out there. Just looking for a good place to start I guess with reclaimed joinery. I've done some panel glue ups before but always focused on planing to get dead flat faces and dead square (or complimentary edges). How does that change when working with reclaimed wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, any general advice on this project is appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2087" LastEditorUserId="2779" LastEditDate="2017-03-09T02:53:44.750" LastActivityDate="2017-03-21T15:54:56.023" Title="Tips for Jointing Reclaimed Barnwood Table Top" Tags="|joinery|furniture|reclaimed-wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5641" CreationDate="2017-03-09T23:09:16.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rustoleum Clear Gloss Enamel spray is excellent stuff. Do a test run on a board and see if you like the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know about the automotive clear, bit if it's like their automotive black, I can say it's durable stuff. GF did her rims with it last year. Just one coat (should have been more but wtv) and it lasted a year in WI. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I say give the clear Rustoleum auto a shot. Heck I might even do that for high wear projects if it's not much pricier than the standard spray enamel (didn't occur to me is all).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2334" LastActivityDate="2017-03-09T23:09:16.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5465" CreationDate="2017-03-09T23:17:00.813" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a quality spray bottle, fill with Luke warm water, add a couple teaspoons of Dawn.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You now have an amazing cleaner / bug killer / pre wash dish spritzer / insecticidal soap for plants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;WD 40 is paint thinner and fish oil. Not bad for some things, but it will act as a bad finish more than a cleanser on wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2334" LastActivityDate="2017-03-09T23:17:00.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5657" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5659" CreationDate="2017-03-10T03:33:27.097" Score="4" ViewCount="1992" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read on all the different types like aluminum oxide, silicone carbide, etc. And the open coat closed coat. But what about price? Is, say, a pack of 5 sheets (assorted) for $4 not going to last/perform as good as a similar box for $10?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I do sanding on both hardwood and softwood regularly. Thru hand sanding, palm sanding, and belt sanding (depending on the case).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2018-11-08T14:50:36.863" LastActivityDate="2018-11-08T14:50:36.863" Title="Cheap or Expensive sandpaper?" Tags="|sanding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1273" CreationDate="2017-03-10T04:51:31.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my can of Zinsser shellac &quot;Not recommended for use as a sealer under polyurethane&quot;.  It says nothing about lacquer.  It sounds like some serious skill would be required to evenly match the original color. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been messing with using this stuff to finish the tweed covering on a reproduction Fender Tweed guitar amplifier cabinet.  To add a little color I mixed about 3 parts clear shellac with one part amber shellac. The amber shellac alone was too dark and was difficult to get even coloring.  I smoothed out a couple areas by wetting a paint brush with denatured alcohol, softening the finish and redistributing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be able to use aniline dyes to tint the shellac to match the original finish, but I'd be a bit afraid that the analine dye based finish may age differently than the original over time.  .   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3422" LastActivityDate="2017-03-10T04:51:31.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5657" CreationDate="2017-03-10T10:14:53.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;But what about price? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do want to buy the best you can afford, but that is not to say you'll be paying the most. Price alone is not a guide to the quality of anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people do subscribe to the notion that paying more assures you're getting a better product but there are far too many exceptions to follow it as a firm principle (and just in our realm it's easy to discover it's very much &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; true when it comes to modern woodworking tools). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it is broadly the case with abrasives that if it's very cheap you'll be getting something poor and if you pay more you will be getting something better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Good paper lasts longer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There can be a huge, almost unbelievable, difference in longevity between a really cheap paper and a decent one, with the pricier one possibly lasting ten times longer. I recently found a cheap flint paper, very old-school, and it wears down to bare paper after only a few minutes of use, where you might get an hour or more of similar hand sanding from a quality resin-bonded paper before it's too worn to be of use*. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Not just longevity&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In addition to longevity there is another issue of abrasive quality and that is consistency in the size of the grit particles. If you've ever sanded something and afterwards noticed a few very obvious deep scratches that can be down to one or two errant particles of grit that are larger than they should be. This is usually a big problem with cheap papers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Broadly speaking FEPA papers (with the P in the number) are screened to a higher uniformity than the American grading system, CAMI. But a good CAMI paper will be significantly better than a cheapie that is supposedly the same grit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you get away from the really cheap stuff picking good/better/best gets more complicated. Between different brands of decent paper, as well as different types of paper from one maker, quality can vary in ways you can't predict and price is likely to no longer be any guide as there is more of a premium on one brand name than another (the problem with woodworking tools). If you don't want to buy a bit of everything and test them out for yourself you'll need to get specific recommendations from people who have used what's available to you and compared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last thing, it's not just paper-backed abrasives we can pick from any more. There are now abrasive screens or meshes such as Abranet to consider, and a few types of abrasive films are now more commonly available as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Not enough to reveal the backing paper, just worn enough that that it no longer sands efficiently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-03-10T10:14:53.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5660" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5664" CreationDate="2017-03-10T17:07:48.570" Score="2" ViewCount="5200" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm want to paint my project with a very light coat of spraypaint, without grain filler so that the wood grain is still visible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen a linseed oil finish on bare wood, and after 10 or 15 thin coats, allowing each coat to dry, the wood ends up with a glossy finish. Would it still be possible to get that kind of finish after spraypainting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3426" LastActivityDate="2017-03-11T08:12:28.283" Title="Linseed oil finish over spraypaint" Tags="|finishing|paint|boiled-linseed-oil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5661" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5662" CreationDate="2017-03-10T23:05:07.363" Score="4" ViewCount="950" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never worked with woodwork and I am very interested in starting to create my first pieces.&#xA;Anyway, there is one piece that I have no idea how to do this circular groove. What are the tools for doing this type of circular groove?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bBD4f.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bBD4f.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dimensions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3CHK6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3CHK6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3100" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2017-03-11T07:38:27.520" LastActivityDate="2017-03-11T12:48:47.573" Title="What tools can I use for doing this type of semicircular groove?" Tags="|tools|router|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5661" CreationDate="2017-03-10T23:41:59.753" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some more context would be helpful. How large is the piece for example? What is it for? How accurate does it need to be? What tools do you have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would cut the main curve with a coping saw or bandsaw depending on the size of the piece and then finish it with a spokeshave, spindle sander, or router depending on how accurate it needed to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would then re-saw it into two thin pieces on the bandsaw (or tablesaw) and carve half of the groove in each piece with a router with a ball nose bit. Then I would glue the two pieces back together (after smoothing the mating surfaces).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I had a quick look and you can get a 'radius groover' router bit that would allow you to skip the re-saw and re-glue operations. Either way you would need to find a router bit the correct size. What will the radius of the groove be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: adding a picture of the radius groover bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zI5aV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zI5aV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3343" LastEditorUserId="3343" LastEditDate="2017-03-11T12:48:47.573" LastActivityDate="2017-03-11T12:48:47.573" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5661" CreationDate="2017-03-11T02:30:34.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd suspect you can cut the circular profile with whatever you like: hole saw if you're lucky, band saw, jig saw, etc. With that done, look for a router bit in a half or full circular shape. You can either edge-route the groove or try to gouge it out with a hand tool. (Plenty of lathe gouges have a round profile.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1925" LastActivityDate="2017-03-11T02:30:34.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5660" CreationDate="2017-03-11T08:12:28.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No you don't want to do that. Linseed oil is not a suitable final finish over paint as it doesn't form a hard, durable film. It's only good when it soaks directly into the wood so that it isn't sitting on the surface but is within the wood fibres. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best choices to protect paintwork are a varnish or lacquer, both of which are intended to make durable surface films. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest option here would probably be a waterbased polyurethane varnish, I think this should bond well enough to a very lightly sprayed wood surface however I'm not certain so it would be advisable to do a test piece or two to check. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you would prefer to go with a lacquer (many spraycan clear finishes) you'll need to test for compatibility with the paint you're using as many spray finishes can interact with paints that they were not intended to go over. If there is a clear finish in the same range as the paint you're using that shouldn't be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slightly off-topic but I wanted to say a bit about this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've seen a linseed oil finish on bare wood, and after 10 or 15 thin coats, allowing each coat to dry, the wood ends up with a glossy finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It shouldn't require 10-15 coats to get a glossy finish, that's just masochism ^_^ Using linseed oil you should start to get a decent sheen at about the third or fourth coat (if you don't you're not doing it right) and it's about as good as you can reasonably expect after about 6-8 coats. That number of coats already requires a little more than a week, who wants to be finishing something for longer than two weeks? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a gloss level higher than this is needed then the piece should really be varnished because as few as three coats can give you a really good shine and this may take as little as a day and a half in suitable conditions. With the added advantage that varnish also produces a surface that's about ten times more resistant to scratches and water!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-03-11T08:12:28.283" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5665" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-11T16:24:58.950" Score="1" ViewCount="340" Body="&lt;p&gt;With reference to my previous &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5492/what-is-this-plywood-joining-mechanism-and-hardware-for-knock-down-furniture&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt; regarding Cam Bolt and Screws, certainly I realised that I have to drill the screws and the bolts too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I need a little info about drilling the holes manually and with the help of a jig. I have gone through some stuff over the internet but a guidance from here would be perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3033" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2017-03-14T22:15:15.520" Title="Cam Bolt and Screw hole drilling" Tags="|plywood|drilling|screws|mdf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3631" CreationDate="2017-03-12T21:07:41.560" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My lathe is similar, though not identical, so this may not apply, but so long as you don't have too much tension on the belt, you shouldn't need tools and you shouldn't need to loosen and shift the motor each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This also works for changing the speeds on a drill press)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two pulleys are straight opposites of one another - as one gets bigger, the other gets smaller. This means that once the belt is on, regardless of which speed it is at, the tension required will be the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to shift speed, change belt positions like you'd remove a bike chain - push the belt on one pulley towards the next smaller sized ring, whilst turning (slowly and by hand!) the belt so that the rotation of the pulley pushes the belt off. Once it's slipped off the first ring, there should be pretty much no tension and you can shift the belt to the new position. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get the belt back on, reverse the process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="282" LastActivityDate="2017-03-12T21:07:41.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5668" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5673" CreationDate="2017-03-13T18:11:34.540" Score="3" ViewCount="953" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am at the last cuts for a shelf which my wife asked for.&#xA;The whole thing is made out of cherry.  The shelf top is 7/8 inch thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The supporting brackets which are mounted to the wall studs are planned to have a pin running perpendicular to the wall which the shelf (having matching dovetail slots) will slide onto up to the wall.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The supporting brackets are not as wide as the top shelf, so the sliding dovetails will be stopped at about 2/3 of the width of the shelf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my real question, after all the setup information, is what is a safe thickness for the dovetail slots in the shelf?  My gut feeling was about half of the thickness of the total shelf (so 7/16 of an inch or so).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am sure there is a lot of slack either way but just wanted to make sure, or see if anyone had a good rule of thumb for this sort of thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: added rough sketch&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/510di.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/510di.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3135" LastEditorUserId="3135" LastEditDate="2017-03-14T15:21:57.460" LastActivityDate="2017-03-15T02:54:55.387" Title="Safe thickness for sliding dovetail in shelf" Tags="|joinery|dovetail|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3631" CreationDate="2017-03-14T03:16:28.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll weigh in with the radical fringe - normal solutions seem pretty well covered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my personal experience, the best thing you can do is to swap the motor for an industrial DC or 3-phase motor and run that motor from a &lt;strong&gt;variable speed drive&lt;/strong&gt; suited to what type of motor it is. These days 3-phase driven by a VFD seems to be most common/cheapest, though if you are willing to pick up craigslist free treadmills and take them apart, you may find a nice DC variable speed system inside it (with, IMPE, somewhat inflated ideas of its horsepower, but still fine for a mid-sized or smaller lathe.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A that point, the stepped pulley is just a torque/top-speed selector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a world of difference being able to get just the speed you want with the twist of a dial (and without the squealing of a Reeves drive.) Harmonic vibrations are easily avoided by making small speed changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Additional note&lt;/strong&gt; - if there's room (there probably is) the &quot;link or twist&quot; belts are a much nicer way to change belts than pulling the spindle to change the belt. Since they can be twisted apart to change the number of links, you can get any length you like and break the belt to thread it onto the lathe, then re-make it, rather than pulling the spindle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever drive you use (including the fixed speed one) it's a very good idea to have a shutoff at BOTH ends of the lathe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3334" LastActivityDate="2017-03-14T03:16:28.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5670" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-14T15:36:04.917" Score="3" ViewCount="708" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a little unclear on some of the nuances of rip vs. crosscut with handsaws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know a crosscut saw should be used when cutting perpindicular to the grain, and the rip saw when cutting with the grain.  My question is where this changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, cutting a dado slot perpendicular to a long board (grain running in long direction) should be done with a crosscut.  But what if you are now cutting a dovetail slot (so the saw is now tilted 45 or so degrees).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that this is now more of a rip cut since you are cutting some across the grain but also some angle into the grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whats the rule?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3135" LastActivityDate="2017-03-26T20:54:07.967" Title="Hand sawing cross or rip" Tags="|hand-tools|hand-saw|end-grain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5671" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-14T16:59:06.523" Score="5" ViewCount="1455" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on hand tool skills and building a workbench. The Paul Sellers workbench that he has videos of on youtube. I find that as I am chopping my mortises my chisel wants to turn to one side or the other. I am using a bevel edge chisel not a mortise chisel and using the Paul Sellers technique. The mortise is a through mortise so I work it from both sides, the twisting of the chisel I try and correct for as I go along, at one point I re-ground the bevel to make sure it wasn't the problem. &#xA;Anyways all that to say the holes from one side don't line up perfectly from the other and I am trying to decide what my solution should be to fix this. Should I widen the mortise on each side? cut thick tenons and pair them down till they fit? Any suggestions would be helpful. Sorry for the extra long question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3437" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-03-14T18:17:14.113" LastActivityDate="2020-10-23T11:56:50.753" Title="what do you do when the two sides of a mortise hole don't line up exactly?" Tags="|hand-tools|mortise-and-tenon|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1423" CreationDate="2017-03-14T17:22:33.523" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;They were always sabre saws until the late 1990's in my recollection. Find any old craftsman catalog and you will see that the portables were sabre saws and the bench top models were scrolling jig saws. However I remember my father telling me when I was young that they used to use both names to describe the portables depending on the maker. Maybe it was more a branding patent thing that created multiple names? Today it seems they are now all called jigsaws for the portables. I'm not sure there is a correct answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3438" LastActivityDate="2017-03-14T17:22:33.523" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5668" CreationDate="2017-03-14T18:08:39.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering the low loads and the dimensions you established there should not be any problem with making the dovetails extend 1/2 the depth of the shelf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A More Technical Discussion:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;My statement above is based solely on my subjective experience, so I tried finding some more factual engineering information for evaluating this type of condition in wood.  If you look at the connection of the shelf and bracket placing a load on the shelf will result in the back of the shelf (against the wall) wanting to tilt up and the front to tilt down The bracket resists this force by holding the shelf down at the back and up in the front. This means that the shelf wants to pull out of the bracket at the back and the dovetail flanges must resist this.  At the front the shelf pushes down on the bracket/dovetail top edge and the dovetail sides do not contribute to the support. In both conditions the strength of the connection is measured by shear strength, which can be loosely considered as the ability of the wood to hold together when faced with adjacent up and down forces. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodbin.com/ref/wood-strength-table/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Woodbin.com&lt;/a&gt; provides a table for strength for various wood species.  For cherry the shear resistance is established as 1700 psi (pounds per square inch of stressed surface. In this case the depth of either the shelf or dovetail at the connection location.)  That means that if your shelf is 1&amp;quot; thick and the dovetail reaches upward halfway, the load transfer between the shelf and brackets can resist 850 lbs in shear for every inch of length of the bracket/shelf joint.  Clearly failure of that joint is not going to be much of a problem in most woodworking projects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Added Note: The shear strength from the table is for parallel with the grain which would apply to the dovetail. The shelf grain would run along the length of the shelf and perpendicular to the grain at the brackets.  The tables did not give that shear value, but I assume it would be greater still. In addition since the dovetail sides are sloped, even though the shear stress is parallel with the grain, the actual strength of the wood in the joint would be more complicated to calculate.  It is my assumption that it would be greater but I have no engineering proof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2017-03-15T02:54:55.387" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5671" CreationDate="2017-03-14T18:34:07.603" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure exactly in what way the two sides don't line up exactly. Working in from both faces should ensure the 'mouth' of the mortise on each face is pretty much bang-on, even if the mortise cheeks are a bit ragged or drift off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ideal fix for a badly mis-cut mortise is actually to scrap the piece and start again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would guess you won't want to do this so I'd say your best option in that case is to glue the tenons in with thickened epoxy. This is the only glue that will bridge the kind of gaps I think you may be dealing with here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the sizes of the tenons you'll want to use a slow-setting version, a 30-minute setting time might be enough but if it doesn't cost much more get some with a one-hour working time to give you a little more leeway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may find this recent Q&amp;amp;A useful, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5379/fixing-an-oversized-mortise&quot;&gt;Fixing an oversized mortise&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Preventing drift in future&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A bevel-edge chisel isn't ideal for cutting mortises but it can definitely be used for the job, you do have to take more care to prevent it from twisting in the hand as it's struck with the mallet though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure how you've been positioning yourself relative to piece being mortised but in case you're not already doing this you should be standing at the end looking along its length if at all possible. Although this isn't always feasible it is the best way to keep the chisel vertical in the left/right direction (the forwards/backwards direction is much less critical except when chopping at each end).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, unless you have no option you should be doing most of the chopping using a chisel that's the full width of the mortise — this is the reason that traditionally mortises were standard widths like 1/4&quot;, 3/8&quot; etc. because those are the widths of the mortise or firmer chisels used to cut them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.687" LastActivityDate="2017-03-14T18:34:07.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5670" CreationDate="2017-03-14T18:56:47.987" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;But what if you are now cutting a dovetail slot (so the saw is now tilted 45 or so degrees). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's still a cross cut because you're sawing at 90° to the long grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's cutting actual dovetails that you really have to ponder which saw is the ideal choice. However, up to a point you don't have to worry about whether a cut is more rip than cross-cut, or vice versa. You can use the same saw for either cut, regardless of its type. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not that a rip saw can't be used for crosscutting it's just that it's less efficient at it, ditto the opposite. And despite the emphasis placed on using the right type of saw for specific cuts it's actually quite common to use the 'wrong' saw for some cuts, the classic example being the traditional dovetail saw used for all joint work which will invariably involve a combination of rip cuts and cross-grain cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An interesting historical point is that cross-cut saw teeth are actually relatively new in the history of woodworking, prior to a certain date (post-Renaissance I think) all European saws were filed rip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-03-14T18:56:47.987" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5665" CreationDate="2017-03-14T22:15:15.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are both simple (when you are knocking together factory flatpack furniture) and surprisingly tricky (when you are making them, not in a factory) joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They were developed for factory-made flat-pack furniture, and you can bet the holes were jigged at least up until they might be CNC-ed, because the things have to line up with a great deal of precision, or they simply do not work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only time I've ever bought the hardware was to replace missing hardware on factory furniture. I have no dreams of competing with Ikea or the nicer, teak-ier (veneer mostly, of course) mid-century Danish factories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would spend some effort on making a jig that does both sets of holes (probably at 90 degrees to each other) and has means to register when clamping so that everything is as well-constrained as can be. Clamp it on the face flatways, drill the big cam holes. Clamp it to the edge of that panel, drill the holes where the bolts come to the clamps. Clamp it to the face of the other panel and drill the holes for the inserts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3334" LastActivityDate="2017-03-14T22:15:15.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2852" CreationDate="2017-03-14T23:23:05.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used my wife's oven to speed up stain and polyurethane finish.  Needed to ship wooden yard dice quickly to a customer for a wedding gift.  Unforgettably, the finish was not drying fast enough due to snowing/sleeting outside and high humidity in my shop.  12 hours after applying, and the finish was still very tacky and certainly could not be sanded.  So, took the dice and placed in my wife's oven at lowest possible temperature of 150 degrees for 20 minutes.  Took out of oven and -- presso -- finish was dry.  Sanded immediately and shipped on time.  You got to LOVE your wife's oven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3440" LastActivityDate="2017-03-14T23:23:05.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5678" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5680" CreationDate="2017-03-16T18:48:29.110" Score="6" ViewCount="7817" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm barely a novice carpenter, in fact all the wood work that I do is for my college's technical theater program, but I'm handy with saws, and other power tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been told by many people I work with that I should never cut more than one piece of wood on the miter saw at a time. I think this is ridiculous. When I ask them to explain how its more dangerous, nobody has a good answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that if I need two pieces of identical length, I should cut them at the same time. If they're small enough, maybe three in one cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question to you all: Is it dangerous to cut multiple pieces of wood on a miter saw in one cut? What about other powered saws?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3448" LastEditorUserId="2524" LastEditDate="2017-03-16T18:58:44.067" LastActivityDate="2017-08-23T22:54:43.550" Title="Safety - Cutting multiple pieces at the same time" Tags="|technique|table-saw|safety|band-saw|miter-saw|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5678" CreationDate="2017-03-16T19:27:40.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on the pieces and situation, but the risk in my experience ultimately comes from the falloff of the cut. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would never stack multiple pieces vertically on the miter saw, as the top pieces will be cut through first, and those pieces of falloff will likely move before you finish you cut and can get thrown or possible pulled back into the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way I might cut multiple pieces is one in front of the other standing on edge, so the widest dimension of the first part is against the fence, and the second part is oriented the same but in front of the first part. This way I can cut through them both and the falloff of each part will come loose approximately the same time, or in order of front the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as accuracy goes, the reality is you are better off cutting one part at a time with a stop block. If your miter saw is out of plumb or square any minute amount, this will only be amplified by stacking or layering parts front to back, so each part will be off more and more the further it is away from either the fence or from the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastActivityDate="2017-03-16T19:27:40.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5678" CreationDate="2017-03-16T19:28:00.973" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple main (safety) concerns with this: the pieces moving while cutting and the offcuts getting caught in the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Pieces moving while cutting&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not so much an issue with safety as it is with accuracy. If one (or all) of the pieces move, you'll need to redo the cut on at least one of the boards, potentially negating any time savings you would see by cutting multiple pieces at once. Risk is negligible if everything is clamped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Offcuts getting caught in the blade&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is probably not as much an issue on a miter saw as it is on other powered saws. Offcuts always have a change to get caught in the blade, although this situation is riskier since you are continuing to cut after an offcut is made. Typically, your offcut would become free at the end of the cut, at which point you turn off the saw. In this case, though, you are continuing to cut, so you have to be aware of what those offcuts are doing (and where your board is pushing them). With a miter saw, the blade is probably moving away from the offcuts, so likely not a big risk. Clamping again can reduce this (clamp both the &amp;quot;keep&amp;quot; side and the offcut side), but does introduce a potential problem with binding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks to @JacobEdmond for pointing out that stacking the pieces vertically on a miter saw can lead to the offcuts falling into the blade. Positioning the pieces in front of each other leads to a much safer cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the same reason you don't want to run a piece in a crosscut sled against the fence (use an offset fence instead), you want to be careful about confining the pieces too much after the cut. You don't want the offcuts to get caught in the blade, but a loose offcut in the blade is much better than an offcut which is confined - that leads to flying wood and other Bad Things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Your bigger issue is likely to be accuracy&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting 2 (or 3 or more) boards lined up exactly together, with a stop block, clamp, or other registration device, is likely to take a relatively long time in order to make an accurate cut. More time, likely, than just setting up a stop block and making 40 &amp;quot;single&amp;quot; cuts instead of 20 &amp;quot;double&amp;quot; cuts in the first place. In addition (thanks again to @JacobEdmond), any error in your miter saw setup (blade angle, bevel angle, etc) will be amplified across the bigger cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider the time to line up the pieces, put a clamp on, butt up against the stop block (or measure with a tape and mark), ensure the pieces are still lined up, and cut. Compare that to the time to butt the piece up against the stop block and cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, while it can be done relatively safely, it may not gain you much in terms of speed - unless your tolerances are fairly loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2017-03-16T19:54:17.910" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4367" CreationDate="2017-03-17T02:27:46.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be able to find food quality mineral oil online fairly easily in most locations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Baby oil is probably okay, but I would shy away from the scented stuff. (Should be able to get unscented baby oil).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mineral Oil is also typically available from pharmacies/chemists where it will probably be called paraffin oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J0yQb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J0yQb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't find online, or at a chemist, you can (I have been told with nothing to back this up), buy bulk quantities of mineral oil from farming supplies stores, where it is sold as a laxative. If I was going down this path I'd make sure there was MSDS available to verify it was 100% mineral oil with no additives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="282" LastActivityDate="2017-03-17T02:27:46.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4367" CreationDate="2017-03-17T05:14:00.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I probably wouldn't use baby oil. It's filled with other ingredients that's may not age well, or mix well with cooking foods. If you can find a pharmacy they'll be bound to have both oils. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I for one am a monster that slices onions on a woodcutting board, but I'm not such a crazed individual that I want my onions to taste like babies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastActivityDate="2017-03-17T05:14:00.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="50" CreationDate="2017-03-18T11:34:38.803" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let me shortly explain my background on this topic. I completely sympathize with your desire to keep the natural wood look and color in wood projects. In my experience most woodworkers love the finished look. Whenever I hear a woodworker say: &lt;em&gt;&quot;And now for the most satisfying part: the finish&quot;&lt;/em&gt;, I personally feel I'll often see a beautiful modern looking piece of furniture be transformed into a dark brown 70's cabinet or table. In other words, it's a style choice and I've been on the same quest as you have been.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one relatively new option that will do what you're looking for but has a big side note. &lt;strong&gt;Nano coating&lt;/strong&gt; is a new technology that will basically let you coat almost any surface (including wood) with an invisible layer that completely blocks liquids and dirt. When I say invisible I mean 100% invisible so it adds zero gloss and has zero effect on the color of the wood. If you do a YouTube search on &lt;em&gt;&quot;Nano coating wood&quot;&lt;/em&gt; you will see some examples.&#xA;The big side note is that there is still very little known about potential health implications. Some researchers have compared the molecular structure of nano technologies to that of asbestos. In some countries it has been cleared for safe use (in Germany it is used to make luxury car windows water repellent and it is used in fabrics) but in most countries research is still being done and a conclusive result on long term health effects is just not available. I have a bottle at home but it's still closed. I just don't dare to use it (yet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other finish will always have an effect on the color and shine of the wood. Some more than others like other answers suggest. Even brands among the same finish might have different impacts due to different compositions. The only way to find out what comes closest to what you're looking for is to try a lot of them on pieces of scrap wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the restaurant tables in your photos, it could be that a varnish is used that actually contains some white coloring. That could compensate for the wood getting darker from the finish and give it that more unfinished color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option could be that a varnish has been used that after hardening has been sanded down a bit again to give it that raw, dusty look and feel but still maintaining the protective properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3456" LastActivityDate="2017-03-18T11:34:38.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="50" CreationDate="2017-03-19T03:18:35.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might try Polyethylene Glycol (PEG). It's used as a wood stabilizer on green wood (it's common on turnings) and I have heard that you can get food safe variations. It would be worth testing out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3461" LastActivityDate="2017-03-19T03:18:35.570" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5686" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-19T17:39:42.387" Score="2" ViewCount="770" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if you plan to finish a piece with walnut or jojoba oil anyway, is there a downside to &quot;pre-finishing&quot; the piece before you finally smooth it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since these oils don't go rancid they incidentally are also used to oil hand planes (jojoba is recommended by Lie Nielson).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that this might help lubricate the sole of the plane (like candle wax on the sole) for better smoothing and also might have some effects on the wood fibers cutting easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the final smoothing then you could reapply finish everywhere.  It's cheap enough that I am not worried about the &quot;wasted&quot; oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3135" LastEditorUserId="3135" LastEditDate="2017-03-19T18:01:26.253" LastActivityDate="2018-08-13T18:42:05.440" Title="Walnut or Jojoba oil before final smoothing plane" Tags="|finishing|hand-planing|oiling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5687" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-19T17:49:39.723" Score="2" ViewCount="291" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm refinishing a bakers box and it has some scratches and tape over it.  Am I supposed to sand the stain off or just the poly?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I generally like the color. I could darken it a shade to a darker walnut.  It seems to have a lot of nooks so I think sanding off the stain would be a risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How deep should i sand to refinish this?  Could I just take off the coat of poly and stain a bit darker?  What should grit should i use to remove it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;General thoughts? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZXngC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZXngC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RUIlO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RUIlO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y6Qy8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y6Qy8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ROMZ6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ROMZ6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2925" LastActivityDate="2017-03-19T17:55:19.297" Title="Refinishing - how much to sand" Tags="|finishing|sanding|staining|refinishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5687" CreationDate="2017-03-19T17:55:19.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would use a set of cabinet scrapers.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a little extra setup because you need a vice of some type, burnisher (very hard steel rod), and a bastard mill file (and/or some hard sharpening stone like DMT diamond impregnated stones, I got mine at home depot for $30).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find lots of videos on how to sharpen these things, but it comes down to making a square edge at the end, work hardening it by rubbing the burnisher on both sides next to the edge, then putting the scraper straight up and burnishing the top and then tilting the burnisher to &quot;turn the burr&quot; which makes the end like a little hook.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you push or pull this edge along and it will shave off very thin (type II-III) wood or poly shavings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like it is more trouble than it is worth.  But for a project like this it will very quickly take off even shavings until you get down to even wood.  Sandpaper, in my opinion, is going to lead to more wobbly edges as it is kind of difficult to sand perfectly evenly, especially around corners like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On top of that a single scraper will last forever, and has all but replaced sandpaper for me (except for some very deep bowl shapes).  They also come in all different profiles to match different edge profiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3135" LastActivityDate="2017-03-19T17:55:19.297" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5689" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5690" CreationDate="2017-03-19T19:46:45.330" Score="5" ViewCount="4318" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may not be important, but it was something that I would find pretty neat to know. And the question is simple, how 'deep' will a given grit (36,80,120,etc) tear into the wood. I do not think there is much more to be said. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="2073" LastEditDate="2017-03-20T11:28:28.520" LastActivityDate="2017-03-20T11:36:32.347" Title="How deep will sandpaper penetrate?" Tags="|sanding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5689" CreationDate="2017-03-19T20:02:40.297" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can see the diameter of the average grit in a piece of sandpaper here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gessweincanada.com/category-s/11328.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.gessweincanada.com/category-s/11328.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming the grit is embedded at least 1/3 of this diameter, you would &quot;cut&quot; into the wood about that far per row of &quot;grit&quot;.  So it depends on the length of your sandpaper (a 1 inch piece of 80 grit sandpaper is going to cut less than a 10 inch piece per stroke, probably about 10:1 if I had to guess).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But really sandpaper does not &quot;cut&quot;, it more tears or smashes the wood fibers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3135" LastActivityDate="2017-03-19T20:02:40.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5689" CreationDate="2017-03-19T23:21:26.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What exactly do you mean by &quot;penetrate&quot;?&#xA;Since the sandpaper will rip small particles from the wood you can actually cut into wood as deep as you want as long as the sandpaper is still sharp and the sanding dust does not block the sandpaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example you will remove top one or two millimeters from a parquet floor using a belt sander to remove the varnish and small dents and scratches in the wood. This is done using a sandpaper belt which surely is thinner than those two millimeters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3463" LastEditorUserId="3463" LastEditDate="2017-03-20T11:36:32.347" LastActivityDate="2017-03-20T11:36:32.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5692" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5693" CreationDate="2017-03-19T23:49:58.837" Score="1" ViewCount="6670" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a mirror frame and even though tried to adjust the saw at the right angle, the corners still have gaps in them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's a good way to fill those: caulking or filler? Before or after hanging (I'm planning to liquid nail it directly to the mirror)? Any particular brand recommendations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lPsqb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lPsqb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jB3vk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jB3vk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3464" LastActivityDate="2017-03-20T21:46:02.597" Title="How to fill gaps in mirror frame corners?" Tags="|finishing|joinery|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5692" CreationDate="2017-03-20T00:40:16.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is two simple ways I would go about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Go to a store that sells stains. If they have that I am sure they will also have wood filler. Get the one that would match the wood color. Some also simply go by 'oak' wood color, something like that. If you used a stain then your in luck! These are usually stain-able. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pHktf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pHktf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Make your own. Very simple and I have been doing this more lately. If you have a sander and the same wood (assuming you made this). Or just get a little of that wood. Anyway using a sander just sand away. When you have a good amount of sand dust collected but it in a little dish. Add some wood clue and mix till you get a nice paste. Just like that you would have made your own simple wood filler. The only thing is I am not sure this is stain-able. It could be since there is wood in it, but it could simply not stain well in that spot. Something to test on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2017-03-20T00:40:16.943" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5686" CreationDate="2017-03-20T08:42:36.617" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It seems to me that this might help lubricate the sole of the plane (like candle wax on the sole) for better smoothing &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would indeed. There's a long tradition of oiling the soles of planes, with a variety of oils (I think the main one historically in the West being raw linseed oil).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see a good reason to use walnut or jojoba in preference for this purpose*, but within reason there shouldn't be a downside to doing so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;if you plan to finish a piece with walnut or jojoba oil anyway&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As surprising as it seems you can actually lubricate plane soles with oil even when that oil won't be used in the finishing process. Same with wax which is the other common lubricant applied to planes to reduce friction (and a better choice IMO). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is natural to assume that the oil or wax would contaminate the wood at least a little and cause a problem with the final finish but in practice this doesn't appear to be an issue.... although I'm sure there's someone who has had a problem with it sometime, but that's likely to have been user error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;might have some effects on the wood fibers cutting easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've hand-planed reclaimed wood that was soaked in oil and it's only at that kind of level that I think you'd notice a difference in the wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But between a metal plane that has a completely clean sole and the same plane lubricated there can sometimes be a huge difference in the ease of planing because of the reduced friction. That effect alone may be enough that you won't feel you need to try oiling the wood itself but experiment away if you want, there are no rules about what you can and can't do in your own workshop!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*There are likely cheaper alternatives that'll work just as well. Certainly where I am walnut oil is expensive and jojoba &lt;em&gt;extremely&lt;/em&gt; expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-03-20T08:42:36.617" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5689" CreationDate="2017-03-20T09:04:16.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a &quot;How long is a piece of string?&quot; question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lots of factors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What type of sandpaper is being used (open coat or closed, abrasive type* etc. etc.)? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How hard is the sandpaper being pressed into the wood? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How fast is the sandpaper moving? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A key factor obviously, how hard is the wood? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And last but by no means least, &lt;em&gt;how long are you sanding for&lt;/em&gt;? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory there's no limit to the depth you can sand to, with any grit within reason, but obviously in practice there are limits in terms of cost (paper wears out, or fills or corns develop), user patience (who &lt;em&gt;hasn't&lt;/em&gt; gotten bored sanding?) and the time available (sanding is rarely the fastest way to do something in most home woodworking environments).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With powered sanders what's feasible to do with sandpaper have opened up enormously — just look at the type of stock removal someone with a belt or disk sander is comfortable doing versus someone who has to sand by hand — but the traditional way(s) the same task was done are worth investigating and trying out for oneself..... bearing in mind that in time almost everyone seeks to reduce the amount of sanding they do to a minimum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Different abrasives have different hardnesses and the individual grains are different shapes, some with sharper edges than others, and each type wears down in its own way. So some papers initially cut fast but quickly lose efficiency, others can be slower to begin with but the falloff in sanding efficiency can be much slower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-03-20T09:04:16.520" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5696" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5699" CreationDate="2017-03-20T11:05:02.777" Score="5" ViewCount="5617" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on replicating this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.otto.de/p/inosign-beistelltisch-mit-ablagefach-509699545/#variationId=509703691&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;side table&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VBasK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VBasK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks nice, but of course from a stability point of view that is probably one of the worst table designs to come up with ;). A lot of force is on those box joints, of course this is just a couch table for some glasses and a bowl of chips, but still.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty new to woodworking, and only have an electric jigsaw at the moment, a manual saw and will get some chisels. &#xA;If I work carefully will it be possible to make the joints fit well enough to make the table as stable as it needs to be? Or would I really need precision machines like a table saw with box joint jig?&#xA;I'm aware this will be quite a bit of work... Any tricks to make this easier?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, does the wood used matter much? The example table is made from    acacia, but I would prefer birch. Is there a difference in hardness, for example?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3466" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-03-20T14:21:35.040" LastActivityDate="2021-11-12T07:17:18.537" Title="Box joints for this table with just jigsaw and chisel?" Tags="|table-making|box-joint|jigsaw|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5692" CreationDate="2017-03-20T11:36:08.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cutting miters to exactly 45 degrees 8 times is difficult. Instead you can use a jig to make sure that the 90° corner is perfectly cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without the jig you can first cut the miters all on one side of the stock and then butt the mitered cut on the other side of the blade and adjust the miter to a right angle to the stock. This will give a more accurate angle that better complements the previous cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2017-03-20T11:36:08.383" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5696" CreationDate="2017-03-20T11:46:42.310" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;These (and much more complex) joints have been done by hand tools alone for centuries, and there is still a strong following of hand tools only woodworking. The box joint you show here is pretty simple, with all angles at 90 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To use the tools you mentioned, the best tip would be to cut everything too small with the jigsaw (or even the hand saw), and then do the final trimming to the exact size with chisels (since it is easier to remove more wood that to add wood where you've cut too much). Also, first do one side of the box joint, and then use it to mark the opposite side (instead of marking both side at the same time and cutting them together). This will help ensure that the two parts fit well together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A specific advice about chisels is to keep them sharp. You might think they come sharp out of the box, but typical chisels are far from their full sharpness when bought.  Chisels will also dull during work, so sharpening them is an important skill to learn and master. There's a ton of sharpening information online and on this site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2017-03-20T11:46:42.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5696" CreationDate="2017-03-20T11:53:50.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before I get to the whole box joint part I will tell you there is a difference with hardness is woods. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wood-database&lt;/a&gt; is a great website to get information on a given wood. I think acacia is harder then birch. Not to familiar with it. But you could really use any wood you would so like. Also I would get some bar clamps for the gluing part. And for glue I recommend Titebond. I use type 2 (water resistant).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I going to make some pictures but they are not going to look the best, since I will have made them :). So here is the process I go by.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WiBTe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WiBTe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Entering something&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in the image above is the first step. Going from one end of the board tote other end measure at 1/2 increments (or to your liking). And you need to put the lines back the same distance as the thickness of the wood. So you know were to stop. The best would be to draw a line across the back of them lines so you do not go to far. Going to far will cause a gap OR the finger will hang out (if done for all of them. But not like in the image, do each one separate. but make sure that you do it from the same side on each or it will not line up, if that makes sence. Then once done and them lines line up put a X on every other. Those you will be cutting out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0cIt1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0cIt1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So above I have the 'wood' up close with the X's. The little squares represent the jigsaw (or any other ) blade. You should have the blade a little ways from the line. If it is centered on the line you WILL have gaps. And as you may guess by having it a it away there still will be some wood to remove. That is were sandpaper or a chisel can come to play. I recommend sandpaper. Take a block that is smaller (width) so you can get in there and file away the wood to the line. This will give you the most control*. I would use 60 grit sandpaper.  a chisel would work, but I think that the chisel can go off and chip out what you do not need. But can still be used to get close and finish the box. Just take your time and it will pay off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gluing is easy (I think). Just glue like you would any other board. It does make a difference were the clamp is. Have the one clamping end on the tooth, were the one board touches the other. Hopefully you get what I mean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many different jigs for a table saw and router table. But I have always done it with a band saw since I do not have the greatest luck with a router table or a table saw. There are many jigs online and on YouTube. You could also do a dovetail but I think for you being a beginner learn to do a box joint before a dovetail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have any other question or I did not cover something or have any other questions let me know in the comments below!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*You have to keep square to the wood. And when sanding watch how you do it. I see people sand and go in a U or C like 'stroke'. I think you get what i mean just keep square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2017-03-20T13:04:06.073" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5696" CreationDate="2017-03-20T12:10:54.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The box joint is sort of the machine equivalent of the dovetail joint; by having all the cuts at 90 degrees you can more easily mechanize the joinery and thanks to the resulting increase in speed you can make many fine 'fingers' to give you massive glue area. This is good since the joint relies entirely on glue to hold it together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dovetailing has the advantage of mechanical interlock in addition to glue. Because cutting the tails and pins by hand is slow you generally will have fewer of them, more widely spaced than with a machine made box joint and therefore you have less glue area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All this is to say that, since you are cutting the joints by hand, you should consider using dovetails instead of box joints. It will change the look of the piece though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether you go with dovetails or box joints you should look up the procedure for cutting dovetails by hand - you will find it in many books and in many places on the internet with small variations. If you are using box joints you will only have to modify the instructions slightly so that all your cuts are at 90 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually the goal when hand cutting these joints is to saw accurately enough that no clean up with a chisel is needed. It's much, much quicker that way and if you can manage it gets a great result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't tried it but I imagine with a jig saw it will be hard or impossible to make the cuts accurately and cleanly enough that no clean up with a chisel is needed. I would recommend sawing as close to the line as you can manage though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively you could buy a dovetail saw and practice with it. Actually I would recommend you do some practice joints whichever method you settle on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3343" LastActivityDate="2017-03-20T12:10:54.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5696" CreationDate="2017-03-20T15:21:54.890" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Some general design/structural considerations for this type of project:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the design shown should be adequate for light loads, it may be helpful to others to understand the way the table works in transferring the loads to the base for future projects. The performance of the table joints under load will not depend upon the species of wood so much as the design and execution of the finger joints.  Whether the joints hold up to any loads will depend upon the number and size of the joints, the number and contact surface area, the quality of the joint contact faces, and the extension length of the table surfaces away from the connection points.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The further the weight is from the joint the more leverage is applied&lt;/strong&gt; with increased strain transferred through the joints. Any weights applied to the table top must be transferred to the floor through the joints. Therefore the shorter the distance from the joint possible for a weight to be placed, the less force applied to the joint.  The dimensions you choose for a project are made for function, but the design must consider the size of the top and the possible distance from the joints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The joints themselves primarily need to resist rotational forces&lt;/strong&gt; which are transferred through the side faces of the fingers via the glue connection. There are two possible means for failure at these connections.  The glue can fail in its bond to the wood or the wood face fibers can tear out from the stock. To maximize performance the joints should be uniform and snug to insure the glue does its job well.  Too much glue used to fill voids in the wood contact will fail before a fine even coat of glue. The wood at the fingers will be under shear stress due to the rotation force in the joint.  This means that the fibers of wood will want to tear loose from adjacent fibers deeper from the surface. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodbin.com/ref/wood-strength-table/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Woodbin.com&lt;/a&gt; provides information on wood shear strength (&lt;em&gt;also check out the &quot;wood&quot; tag wiki for other resources&lt;/em&gt;).  Clearly denser hardwoods have more shear strength than softwoods such as pine and will have increased capability to resist rotational shear stress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thicker boards are better.&lt;/strong&gt; Each finger joint will provide a small portion of the overall strength of the joint.  Clearly the area of contact in each joint will matter.  The thicker each board is the more strength it will have.  Doubling the thickness will quadruple the strength of the joint due to increased contact area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;More fingers are better,&lt;/strong&gt; up to a point. How many you need, structurally, depends upon the weights it must support.  Determining the exact number necessary is a structural engineering calculation beyond the scope of the answer. That number will certainly be less than what is pictured for this design. After that count the rest is mostly aesthetics.  Obviously the more joints you include the thinner the thickness of the individual fingers.  How thin is too thin is a good question.  I can't offer a supportable answer for that at this time.  My instincts tell me 1/4&quot; is a minimum finger width, but I would not be surprised to hear the fingers could be much thinner and still perform as well or maybe better than my declared minimum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-03-20T15:30:12.683" LastActivityDate="2017-03-20T15:30:12.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5702" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5705" CreationDate="2017-03-20T15:25:25.117" Score="1" ViewCount="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to create a 3d model of the house which should resemble medieval one. It's not aiming to be perfectly aligned nor have strict measures; I'd like to learn how roof would be constructed if the mentioned house was real one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm searching for a correct way of creating its roof. The house walls form some corners which prevent roof to have perfect forms. Here is a screenshot of the house without the roof:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gnqN0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gnqN0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;roof-ortho-1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a corner on the near side, however there aren't any on the other side (the wall is straight there).&#xA;And this is its plan without roof:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0c093.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0c093.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;top-without-roof&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;house plan is highlighted&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have decent references and not aware of principles as to how are roofs constructed to cover that form.&#xA;Should it be like this example ? (it is only a schematic representation of forms)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Eec1M.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Eec1M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;roof-ortho-2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nz9gF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nz9gF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;roof-top&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;roof is highlighted&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However its is now curved which is not something I saw on the ridges of the roof. What is the principle of constructing roof for similar case and how roof for that house could look like ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3468" LastEditorUserId="3468" LastEditDate="2017-03-20T19:37:54.017" LastActivityDate="2017-03-20T19:37:54.017" Title="How to construct roof correctly covering walls corners?" Tags="|wood|traditional-techniques|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5703" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-20T15:28:29.920" Score="1" ViewCount="231" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TDUnn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TDUnn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dresser conversion to media stand&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hi, I need some help please. I am upcycling an old dresser into a media stand. I want to put hinges on the top left and right drawer so they fold open to 90 degree. &#xA;The issue I have is the drawers are curved therefore I will need a hinge that opens and pushes out. My only requirement is the front face when closed is flush, I don't mind a gap when the drawer front is open so that PS4, Direct TV, DVD player can be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me the name of the hinges I would need to use? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you&#xA;Chella&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3469" LastActivityDate="2017-03-31T15:34:05.477" Title="Dresser conversion to media stand - hinge help required" Tags="|hinges|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5704" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5709" CreationDate="2017-03-20T17:03:45.503" Score="3" ViewCount="4420" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hired someone to put together bed slats for my new bed. The bed frame comes with center support for the slats that he's building and the slats will be screwed down onto the center slat and the side rails of the bed frame. He ordered furniture grade hard maple wood which has been planed and sanded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He thinks that the bed slats might warp if I don't use a sealer. I really like the look of the hard maple without a stain or sealer though. Most do it yourself manuals for bed slats online don't even mention using a sealer. So this is what I want to know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I use a sealer and why?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If so, what sealer should I use that won't be noticeable or discolor the wood and still do the job?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3470" LastEditorUserId="3470" LastEditDate="2017-03-20T17:09:38.530" LastActivityDate="2017-03-28T17:03:55.887" Title="Should I seal my bed slats, and if yes, with what?" Tags="|furniture|warp|varnish|water-protection|hardwood|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5702" CreationDate="2017-03-20T17:32:58.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, there is no standard rule of thumb for resolving roof conditions. There may be as many possible solutions as there are people trying to solve the roof challenge you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's start by identifying the roof sections. I count 6 roof segments and will label the upper left section as 1 with 2 &amp;amp; 3 to the right of it.  Similarly the lower sections are 4 thru 6 with 4 below one, 5 below 2, and 6 below 3 on the plan. (It would be helpful to others if you place those section numbers on your plan image).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roof sections 1, 3, 4, &amp;amp;6 are straight forward.  They individually have the same lengths on each side and are straightforward slopes.  Sections 1 &amp;amp; 4 mirror each other as do 3 &amp;amp; 6.  Since their horizontal lengths from base to peak lines differ they will not have the same slope which is often very desirable for aesthetic reasons. If you maintain the same slope either the eave line or ridge will not be at the same height for roof pair sections 1-4 and 3-6. The usual way of resolving this is to let the ridge in 4-6 be higher than 1-3 and I will assume that keeping the base line even is your bottom line for the design since it maintains a simple roof bearing condition for the entire roof system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real design challenge is in resolving the differences between 1-4 and 3-6 in sections 2 &amp;amp; 5.  Section 2 has parallel base and ridge lines resulting in a horizontal level bases and ridges. Section 5 has unequal side lengths which result in either an unlevel base or ridge line.  So the two ridge lines will not meet each other. That means that the 3D drawing you provided cannot work without warping roof sections 2 or 5, a very undesirable solution for construction purposes and aesthetics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible solutions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Create one ridge line based upon the slopes of 3-6 and carry those base and ridge lines across the entire plan . That would result in the roof overhanging sections 1 &amp;amp; 2 further, but that may not be a bad thing. Certainly and truss fabricator would be able to design the trusses to cantilever the additional length.  Conventional framing for that condition would either require an exterior column at the upper left corner or some cantilever framing at the base line of the side of section 1.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Extend the ridge line of sections 1-4 over to the left side line of roof section 3-6 creating a flat triangular roof area between sections 2 &amp;amp; 5.  This is doable but will result in exposed triangular side walls along the adjacent edge of 3-6 and 2-5 to close off the gap between roof slope angles. It will also require some well done flashing to prevent water penetration at the junction. Especially if there is a winter season with snow build-up. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Create a raised structure at sections 2 &amp;amp; 5 that raise their roofs higher and allow you to resolve that roof section independent of the other sections.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Modify the design. Often in architectural design if things are not resolving well the designer must re-examine the initial assumptions and attempts change one or more of them to see what comes out of it.  This approach often leads to a better, more interesting and more construct-able solution.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2017-03-20T17:32:58.100" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2" CreationDate="2017-03-20T18:31:47.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did it with a cheap skilsaw and cheapest 60t blade. taped the veneer and cut with the veneer side down, clamped a board to it for a guide. Just slow and even, and ho&#xA;ld the cut off so it could not drop.  PERFECT - no chipping. nothing fancy or expensive but a great result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3471" LastActivityDate="2017-03-20T18:31:47.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5704" CreationDate="2017-03-20T18:45:04.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to picture a situation where you would see the slats in an assembled bed. Is this a bunk bed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've made several beds and have never sealed the slats. If there's concern such as incomplete drying of the maple, but you wish to leave the wood bare, you might want to seal just the end-grain. My preference for this is shellac. I mix my own but the Zinsser brand off the shelf is fine if it's fresh. I typically dilute the first coat for better penetration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2762" LastActivityDate="2017-03-20T18:45:04.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5703" CreationDate="2017-03-20T19:00:20.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few suggestions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/blum-170-degree-face-frame-hinge?utm_source=google&amp;amp;utm_medium=cpc&amp;amp;utm_term=&amp;amp;utm_content=pla&amp;amp;utm_campaign=PL&amp;amp;sid=V9146&amp;amp;gclid=Cj0KEQjw-73GBRCC7KODl9zToJMBEiQAj1Jgfzp88Va8ehLpd_9HiT_cLMwbSUEnAmzar17cdEMjlqoaAvo98P8HAQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;blum-170-degree-face-frame-hinge&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.atgstores.com/door-hinges/soss-door-hardware-208-invisible-door-hinge_5866959.html?ppc=2615&amp;amp;af=2615&amp;amp;cm_mmc=sce_google&amp;amp;s_kwcid=AL!4500!3!186135949198!!!g!292994803897!&amp;amp;gclid=Cj0KEQjw-73GBRCC7KODl9zToJMBEiQAj1Jgf9OUYOo94JTt_sdlvbWdqGyFytKd6Ph5u6C2YPOiR-IaAoF28P8HAQ&amp;amp;ef_id=VvsIQQAABPCdLV8U:20170320185346:s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;soss-door-hardware-208-invisible-door-hinge&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.atgstores.com/door-hinges/soss-door-hardware-218-invisible-door-hinge_5866995.html?ppc=2615&amp;amp;af=2615&amp;amp;cm_mmc=sce_google&amp;amp;s_kwcid=AL!4500!3!186135949198!!!g!292994803897!&amp;amp;gclid=Cj0KEQjw-73GBRCC7KODl9zToJMBEiQAj1Jgf_KePwKx6PENZuseJiX8VewvswBNg0jdVIwQlMDKjr4aAk378P8HAQ&amp;amp;ef_id=VvsIQQAABPCdLV8U:20170320185255:s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;soss-door-hardware-218-invisible-door-hinge&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2762" LastActivityDate="2017-03-20T19:00:20.113" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5704" CreationDate="2017-03-20T19:16:53.133" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;He thinks that the bed slats might warp if I don't use a sealer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 'sealer' won't make much or any difference to this once the slats are fixed in place and in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use quotes above because the idea that we seal wood with a finish is widely misunderstood. Various finishes do protect the wood's surface from dirt to various degrees (even a thin application helps a bit) but much less from changes in humidity which is what he is referring to. Even the best finishes in this regard* have to be built up to fairly thick, consistent coating to do so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should I use a sealer and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can apply a finish to the slats if you want to, but there's no need and they are very commonly left unfinished (hence why DIY manuals won't normally mention applying anything to them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*What are called film finishes because they build a film on the surface of the wood, these include shellac, varnish, lacquers and epoxy coatings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-03-20T19:16:53.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5696" CreationDate="2017-03-20T19:59:53.423" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Box joints for this table with just jigsaw and chisel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A jigsaw is not the right choice for this. &lt;em&gt;Much&lt;/em&gt; preferable to cut this using a hand saw of some kind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;but of course from a stability point of view that is probably one of the worst table designs to come up with ;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually the design is very stable, in all ways you might mean it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cantilevering makes it very stable in a gross physical sense. The grain of all parts is in the same orientation so it's stable in terms of seasonal movement. And the box/finger joints have tons of glue surface area so they are inherently very strong if done well. Overall the table is probably a lot stronger than you'd think. Based on a discussion I read about a chair project (yes a chair!) built similarly this should be much stronger than many woodworkers would assume from looking at it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm pretty new to woodworking... If I work carefully will it be possible to make the joints fit well enough to make the table as stable as it needs to be? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can't answer that for you as it is of course entirely up to you ;-) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if I can put it this way, there's no reason a relative newbie can't build something like this if they were diligent and didn't rush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Or would I really need precision machines like a table saw with box joint jig? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A jig and a table saw or router would of course make this a lot simpler, faster and less effort, but &lt;em&gt;needed&lt;/em&gt;? No, no more than power tools are needed to produce M&amp;amp;T joints or dovetails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any tricks to make this easier?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Practice is actually the thing that'll make this easier for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds trite but even hand-cutting dovetails is basically a very simple process at heart yet many struggle to do them well initially for a host of reasons. But once they have tackled enough of them to become reasonably proficient they can find they're actually relatively easy to do, and a real pro can do them amazingly quickly despite the precision that's required for them to fit well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are lots of guides online to doing dovetails by hand and you can essentially adopt the process wholesale when doing these, i.e. cut 'pins' or 'tails' first (obviously no actual pins or tails here), then transfer marks to the interlocking piece, so that any irregularities are allowed for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the following Q&amp;amp;A may be of help: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3672/how-do-experts-make-dovetails-by-hand-that-fit-so-well&quot;&gt;How do experts make dovetails by hand that fit so well?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2017-03-20T19:59:53.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5703" CreationDate="2017-03-20T20:04:17.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might be able to get Soss hinges to work, but they are danged finicky, and require someone with more than average skill to install them.  You might be able to finagle a 35mm cup hinge of some kind (&quot;Blum&quot; is one company that makes them) but if its curved where the cup hole is bored that will increase the amount of expertise required, if its even possible.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that the &quot;door&quot; will be 2.5x wider than it is tall will mean you will be fiddling them forever, because no matter how perfectly you align them, they will always sag.  You have very little tolerance in those openings.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you use a piano hinge, but those will eventually sag, too, and you cannot hide them. There is a way to sort of hide a piano hinge in an overlay scenario, but not in this inset one.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Upcycle&quot;.  Thats funny. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3473" LastActivityDate="2017-03-20T20:04:17.650" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5696" CreationDate="2017-03-20T20:27:00.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Box joints are machine joints. Period. They are great for multiples of boxes, or if, as in this example, the design is asking for something more industrial.  If I am only doing one, its just as fast to cut dovetails, because of machine setup time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I size fingers based on the job, and I would certainly heed Ashlar.  But I really like the old Sears Roebuck boxes with 1/8 fingers - which works great with a one sawblade.  Cutting a jillion of those things is tedious, so I might simply stack two blades, or pull out the dado.  Tons of youtubes on how to make a box joint jig for the table saw.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lots of guys use a router table to good effect; I have not.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3473" LastActivityDate="2017-03-20T20:27:00.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5692" CreationDate="2017-03-20T21:46:02.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're not off by much.  That gap is 2x the amount your saw is off. You need to somehow rotate the work toward the saw a little bit to close that gap.  If you can't adjust the saw I'd use the trick we use in the field with a saw that gets dropped:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fold a dollar bill in half and tuck it in between the saw backstop and the piece of frame you are cutting.  This will change the angle of attack a hair.  You can adjust that by sliding the bill up or down the backstop, or folding or unfolding the bill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't fill it if a fix is so easy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3473" LastActivityDate="2017-03-20T21:46:02.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5654" CreationDate="2017-03-21T15:54:56.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a fast path which preserves the character of the for the top but sacrifices the bottom surface of the table (the side seen by the floor). Assuming you have a planer or are savvy with hand planes, this is approachable without too much pain. Find the thinnest board in the set you wish to use and plane the bottom surface flat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the sake of discussion, lets assume this is now 1&quot; thick and flat on one side. Now plane the rest of the boards (on one side only), to the same 1&quot; thickness. Now you have a set of 1&quot; thick boards which have &quot;character&quot; on all faces except one. The can rest flush on your stretchers and still look interesting. You can stop here and build the table as you wish. If the fresh wood underneath seems to bright a color, a little stain will help greatly to bunt that. Note: it is worth trying the boards in different combinations, to see if one combination is more appealing than another. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is too much character and the gaps between the planks bothers you, you can plane the side surfaces, however, it is probable that fresh wood will be visible to folks sitting at the table. In a perfect world, it wouldn't but this kind of woodwork is far from perfect. If all the planks are planed on their edges as well this can be minimized. But a close inspection will still see fresh wood. A little dark stain goes a long way, so don't over do it. You are looking for a color just a bit darker than the surface. Some folks will 'distress' the edges as well to help blend the overall look. (This, too, is easy to overdo). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastActivityDate="2017-03-21T15:54:56.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5716" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-21T19:12:01.753" Score="1" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought this Lansky system. In the instructions it says that Arkansas stones need to be oiled while using. Diamonds need to be cleaned with water and others may need a drop of oil or two after use to clean them from metal spans. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I identify which one is which?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ps: Tips of any sort are very welcome! kinda new to the whole sharpening stuff:)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/umkLd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Backs&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Oa0v5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Stone side&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3478" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2017-03-27T20:51:05.257" LastActivityDate="2017-03-27T20:51:05.257" Title="Lansky System, Help!" Tags="|wood|sharpening|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5686" CreationDate="2017-03-21T22:11:38.613" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, I can't imagine oiling the wood before planing it.  I think it might dull my feel of the wood. And then I think of oily shavings, and dust balling up in it - and that oil on my forearms when I'm scraping.  I use mostly Ulmia and similar - perhaps it might be different with the heft of a Lie Nielsen.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3473" LastActivityDate="2017-03-21T22:11:38.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5678" CreationDate="2017-03-21T22:21:34.310" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stacked cutting is verboten in my shop.  It isn't so much that it is dangerous in every instance, but shortcutting is a horrible habit when you are dealing with sharp and pointy things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3473" LastActivityDate="2017-03-21T22:21:34.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5721" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-22T13:10:42.403" Score="1" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have been using a bench grinder to sharpen my bits, which I think I have been doing real good with. But there is a 3/8 bit that I used for some metal and have a interesting profile but I reshaped the head to be like a normal twist bit. It cuts chips very well, but there is a wide point on the bit. On a normal' bit there is a nice point. The one I sharpened has a wide point, almost 1/16 or 1/8. Someplace in that range. I do not know what I did wrong. I kept the angle the same, at 120 or whatever. But what about The angle for the flute directly? I think I had it at 10' maybe more. Can't say because I do free hand. So what would be some details for sharpening a bit correctly so it has a good point, to keep from running on the wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2017-03-22T13:10:42.403" Title="Drill sharpening" Tags="|drill-bits|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5722" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-22T16:51:01.477" Score="2" ViewCount="939" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I got a little carried away applying shellac for the first time and didn't wait long enough between coats.  The result was a gloopy looking, cloudy surface.  On the paduak the coat actually looks like runny peanut butter in some places ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I scrape off the excess and apply one final light coat, or sand it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently the denatured alcohol can dissolve foam brushes.  I am guessing this is where the nasty looking color is coming from.  I guess I should scrape it down to the wood and start fresh with a cut up t-shirt ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3135" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2017-03-23T08:43:55.967" LastActivityDate="2017-03-23T08:43:55.967" Title="Fixing gloopy shellac" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5716" CreationDate="2017-03-22T19:42:47.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;These appear to be Aluminum Oxide stones. They might work better with oil. I use mineral oil, easily and cheaply available at the local drugstore. It's also known variously as white oil, liquid paraffin, liquid petroleum in various locales. Baby oil is mineral oil with perfume added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water with a drop or two of dishwashing soap works fine for me too. Just clean it off of any metal surfaces when you're done to avoid corrosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure to use the full length of the stone to get the most even wear of the stone. Even then, you'll periodically need to &lt;em&gt;lap&lt;/em&gt; the stones flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2017-03-22T19:42:47.223" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5722" CreationDate="2017-03-22T20:24:30.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would sand it and begin again. For brushing, I see folks recommending fine nylon brushes but I prefer a fine China bristle brush when I'm not spraying. Here's some recommendations I make with shellac.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most commercially prepared shellac is typically a 3 lb. cut and should be diluted before brushing. This will allow the first coat a bit more penetration. But more importantly, it helps you work faster on subsequent coats. Like lacquer, shellac dissolves the underlying layers as you apply additional coats. If you &quot;work&quot; it too much you will drag underlying material and create uneveness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be absolutely sure the shellac is fresh. I usually mix my own from flakes for guitar work but the Zinsser brand is OK for less critical applications. Try to find stock less than 6 months old. They used to date the cans but how use a code. Here's a link to &quot;decode&quot;: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworkersedge.wordpress.com/2012/07/15/decode-your-shellac/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://woodworkersedge.wordpress.com/2012/07/15/decode-your-shellac/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2762" LastActivityDate="2017-03-22T20:24:30.483" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5722" CreationDate="2017-03-23T08:43:07.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should at least remove the excess if you've gotten a sort of gloopy/lumpy surface. This can be done quite effectively by a version of &quot;spiriting off&quot; where you wipe with a pad dampened in alcohol. With care you can remove excess shellac without revealing bare wood in spots and along edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to get all the way back to bare wood you can wipe it away with paper towels or a cloth soaked in DA at any stage in the drying process from still sticky to fully hardened, or scrape it off or sand it off as you prefer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With sanding you need to wait until the shellac has hardened sufficiently so that it doesn't gum up the paper (how long is needed is entirely dependent on the temperature and humidity at your location). It's often best to wait the same amount of time if scraping but not absolutely necessary since you can't clog a scraper in the same way!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;start fresh with a cut up t-shirt ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a big fan of wiping on shellac on small items (not so much for larger stuff) so I think you should at least try it once or twice to see how you get on. If you're deft and fast you can get away with just wiping on with some shellac soaked into a pad of cloth or paper, but to work the shellac into the surface and build a more uniform coat you need to adopt a more full-on French polishing technique and lubricate the pad's surface with a drop or two of oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Traditionally the oil used was raw linseed oil but actually the type of oil doesn't really matter as it doesn't become a part of the finish, and many today use mineral oil instead. The oil eventually is removed from the surface by wiping/buffing or during spiriting off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re. spiriting off, I wish I could point you to a definitive source but actually I've found there are numerous variations, even among pros. Any decent guide to French polishing, including just a chapter in a wider book on finishing, should include a description of one version of it. Given the authority of the writers presenting the variations I have to assume that all of them do the job and minor differences may simply be a matter of personal preference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-03-23T08:43:07.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5727" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5728" CreationDate="2017-03-23T13:17:11.947" Score="5" ViewCount="1045" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to think of a good way to make this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GLb1V.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GLb1V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the round sides with the massive radius stumble me. The only way I can think of is cutting many half circles from plywood and then gluing them together to reach the depth of the desired piece. But that seems a bit like an overkill, is there something I'm missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2263" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2018-07-12T21:22:20.173" LastActivityDate="2018-07-12T21:22:20.173" Title="How to make round walls with big radius" Tags="|laminating|round|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5727" CreationDate="2017-03-23T13:24:31.687" Score="8" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Laminate from veneers that are thin enough to bend the radius cold&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Solid wood kerfed on the inside face&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Steam bent solid wood&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But my best bet looking at the style of that piece would be many partial circles cut from MDF glued in stacks, sanded, and veneered on the surfaces. Overlapping shorter segments would make more efficient use of the material than full half-circles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3334" LastActivityDate="2017-03-23T13:24:31.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5729" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-23T19:44:50.650" Score="1" ViewCount="702" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on building a headboard with a 10&quot; wide panel that attaches to a curved leg. I am concerned that the panel will be restricted from moving due to the curve of the leg or create a gap between the leg and the panel. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to attach them panel to the leg? I would like to keep this as solid wood, if possible. I have attached a simplified drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S0bzn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S0bzn.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3489" LastEditorUserId="3489" LastEditDate="2017-03-23T20:25:39.983" LastActivityDate="2017-03-25T19:05:02.620" Title="Dealing with wood movement when attaching a wide panel to a curved leg" Tags="|joinery|wood-movement|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5557" CreationDate="2017-03-23T21:11:28.493" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could do something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sFA08.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sFA08.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.themag.it/inspiration/2011/join-table.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.themag.it/inspiration/2011/join-table.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3492" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-03-24T01:51:15.937" LastActivityDate="2017-03-24T01:51:15.937" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5729" CreationDate="2017-03-23T22:11:45.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do it if make that panel veneer on a plywood substrate - then you can glue it into a dado, or use some kind of fasteners, or biscuits.  Laying up panels is a skill you will not be sorry you learned.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have nothing holding the curved vertical members together except the panel. As far as I can see - I could be wrong. If you are going to stabilize your design using A solid wood panel, it will more than likely crack, because you will have to lock that panel in in order to achieve the rigidity you need for the headboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hate to say it, because I think I can see you are going for something minimal, but this design wants upper and  lower stretchers if you need to use solid lumber. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3473" LastActivityDate="2017-03-23T22:11:45.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1349" CreationDate="2017-03-23T23:15:45.503" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everything in its place.  Years ago, I morticed all my faceframes, and looked askance at guys who used biscuits.  Then I switched to biscuits.  When pocket holes came available on the street (they'd been in big factory furniture since who knows when) i looked down on those guys.  In the last 15 years, pocket holes have become an indispensable part of our fastening repertoire.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Faceframes, yes; table aprons, maybe; chair stretchers, no; flat-edge panel glue-ups - unnecessary, wasteful, and potentially detrimental.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3473" LastActivityDate="2017-03-23T23:15:45.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5729" CreationDate="2017-03-24T08:17:05.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the central panel is solid wood and the grain orientation is vertical as you indicate in the Comments expansion will be side to side, not up and down, so there's no real issue with the attachment of the legs to it. There will be a potential issue between the assembled headboard and anything you want to fix it to (because it will change width during the year) but that's a subject for another Question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can of course minimise seasonal movement by selecting quarter-sawn wood for the central panel. As I touch on in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3441/what-is-the-maximum-width-for-a-full-cross-grain-glue-up/3533#3533&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt; the expansion of QS wood can be significantly lower than for a flat-sawn piece of the same species. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know you indicate that you would prefer to use solid wood throughout but if the central panel is made from plywood or another board material you'll have no issues with movement to concern you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2017-03-24T08:17:05.517" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5729" CreationDate="2017-03-24T14:57:50.097" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;leg&quot; (10&quot; wide, headboard, I have to assume there are multiple &quot;legs&quot;) is curved. Simplify your life on the panels and cut the slots in the legs &quot;straight&quot; and deep; making the panels either a trapezoid or a rectangle. Then borrow a standard trick from frame and panel and insert a couple of rubber balls in each slot, which help to keep the panel centered as it shrinks and swells. Make the panel sufficiently wide (and the slots sufficiently deep, plus a bit) that any expected shrinkage will not cause a gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;em&gt;Grain was vertical in early comments, has now changed to horizontal&lt;/em&gt;) So, now that you've changed your mind on the grain direction, make the slots longer than the panel and glue and/or pin only the center of the panel, so that movement is possible without damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3334" LastEditorUserId="3334" LastEditDate="2017-03-25T19:05:02.620" LastActivityDate="2017-03-25T19:05:02.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5729" CreationDate="2017-03-24T15:39:14.773" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Per your most recent comment, the center panel grain runs horizontal.  In that case there will not be any horizontal expansion to consider and the legs will maintain the same positions relative to the top cross beam that connects this leg with one on the other side of the headboard. The panel will expand and contract vertically and the amount of movement can be calculated (see the &quot;wood-movement&quot; tag wiki for links to calculators).  You can easily absorb and conceal that movement by providing shoulders on the panel's tenons stopping the tenon short of the end by 1/2&quot; to 3/4&quot; from the end.  Make the dado it fits in longer than the tenon to allow expansion of the panel.  The dado should stop short of the end of the shoulder to insure that the shoulder always covers the dado. Finally, glue the panel to the legs only at the center so that the expansion (up and down) in the leg dados can occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2017-03-24T15:39:14.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2836" CreationDate="2017-03-24T22:15:32.473" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;We hang hundreds of inset faceframe doors a year.  If the space between the inside edge of your faceframe and the wall of your cabinet is less than 5/8, you will have to use the euro-box frameless plates, as opposed to the &quot;castles&quot; (that's what we call them :) ) pictured above. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.build.com/blum-175h9160/s96505?uid=1672799&amp;amp;gclid=CjwKEAjwh9PGBRCfso2n3ODgvUcSJAAhpW5oLpJ8EVGRngw0KK-2uvNo6Yk4TBH5jmdPTLs-74tpExoC3wTw_wcB&amp;amp;source=gg-gba-pla_1672799____78027640639&amp;amp;s_kwcid=AL!4215!3!78027640639!!!g!337170516437!&amp;amp;cawelaid=120135390007909471&amp;amp;cagpspn=pla&amp;amp;caagid=21076242679&amp;amp;catci=pla-337170516437&amp;amp;lsft=source%3Agg-gba-pla_1672799&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blum Frameless Plates&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have to use the frameless plates, you have to build out the distance from the wall of the cabinet to the inside edge of the faceframe.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tip:  If you can leave the back off your cabinet until after you install those &quot;castles&quot; you will be waaaay happier. There is a center screw hole that is absolutely necessary and a real booger to get to - especially when you wear trifocals... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3473" LastActivityDate="2017-03-24T22:15:32.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5424" CreationDate="2017-03-25T20:21:28.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our jobsite saw only gives about 2 1/2 depth of cut.  It's also just your standard 15 amp direct drive, so it doesn't like to be stressed. Fine for 99% of our site work.  On the rare occasion we have to rip timbers we start with a shallow cut and gradually raise the blade in two or three passes.  Flip and repeat.  a 6 x 6 will leave about 1/2 or so in the center.  Provided the faces were reasonably straight and flat - else you have to joint one face.  We then turn to the trusty Harbor Freight portable electric planer to hog the ridge close.  Finish up by hand, with the Ulmia that out of the box in 1981 cost 5x more than the HF planer :).  Needed: 2 Guys, aforementioned tools, sawhorses, 5 minutes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3473" LastActivityDate="2017-03-25T20:21:28.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5739" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-25T21:13:44.233" Score="1" ViewCount="153" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently been using my router a lot lately and have noticed that it's losing it's ability to grip the bit as during operation the bit will slowly change height to the point of almost falling out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The router is fairly old so it might just be time to get a new router, but I was wondering if there were any suggestions on how to mitigate some of these issues or fix the collet so that I wouldn't have to look for another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;b&gt;Note:&lt;/b&gt; I tried different bits thinking it could have just been the bit's metal slipping though they all had the same result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2271" LastActivityDate="2017-03-25T21:13:44.233" Title="How to fix a collet chuck on a router" Tags="|router|router-bit|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2017-03-25T21:20:43.953" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5217" CreationDate="2017-03-26T00:09:55.500" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The light discoloration resembles that caused by an infestation of some sort.  In my case it was in douglas fir and the inspector would not pass my house because of it.  Perhaps an exterminator would examine you photo and comment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="309" LastActivityDate="2017-03-26T00:09:55.500" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5741" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5742" CreationDate="2017-03-26T11:43:38.353" Score="1" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to ask for help for an idea I have for a gift. I have no experience with carving wood or similar things but I feel I can follow directions, and recently I’ve done a few small things that were out of my comfort zone, so I was looking for some guidelines/help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My idea is to create my own game, and the most complicated part for me is “making” the board. My initial idea was to learn what type of wood might be easy for a total begginer, that looks kind of nice, a small table or plank, and carve the infinite symbol on it. Further, this symbol would have squares or boxes along it, as to move pieces on the board. Similar to the monopoly, but along the infinite symbol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My idea is to make the design of the symbol, something I feel looks nice enough, print it out, and with some tool carve it into the plank/wood.&#xA;And that’s as far as I know, since I do not know which wood is good for this, which tools I am going to need, if the result will end being something remotely nice (I guess after the carving, varnishing might be a good idea), or anything, really.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have simpler options (more childish/simpler, but hey, I’m not a pro), and I thought, worst case scenario, I look around my city for people that might make this professionally and check how much they charge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As of right now, the more I look into this, the harder it seems for a begginner. I don't know which type of wood to use, nor it seems the end result would be all that great. But I wanted to know if people with more experience could guide me&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3499" LastActivityDate="2017-03-27T22:52:21.960" Title="Looking for help to design my own board game" Tags="|technique|wood|design|plywood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5741" CreationDate="2017-03-26T19:06:44.327" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of my specialties is inlay, here's a possiblility from that POV. Although you could do this all by hand, a small router or Dremel tool with a flat base will make the task faster and cleaner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Begin with a piece of hardwood ply for your board. Use the router to cut out the infinity pattern then set in a piece of contrasting veneer that fits and will end up flush when done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Option one&lt;/em&gt;, same color for entire infinity pattern. First cut the infinity pattern from some thick veneer. You can use a coping saw for this, cut outside your line and sand the contour smooth. Securely tape this to your board and scribe a line around the contour. Remove the pattern and route the board between the scribed lines to a depth just shy of that of the infinity inlay. Some trial and error will be needed for a good fit. Glue the inlay into the routed slot. Have some sawdust from the inlay veneer material handy that you can rub into the still damp glue at the edges (after scraping off most excess). Overlay with waxed paper, a flat board and either clamp or weight down to bed the inlay in its recess. (If you use black veneer for your inlay material, glue it with black superglue, no sawdust needed. This glue is also less likely to expand over time. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stewmac.com/Materials_and_Supplies/Glues_and_Adhesives/Glues/StewMac_Super_Glues/StewMac_Tinted_Super_Glue.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.stewmac.com/Materials_and_Supplies/Glues_and_Adhesives/Glues/StewMac_Super_Glues/StewMac_Tinted_Super_Glue.html&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To define squares, you could woodburn across the inlay. Or, with a tiny Dremel bit, and a straight-edge guide, route across the inlay and inlay strips of another color wood or soft metal. Sand the entire surface flush when done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To keep the underlying board clean, seal it with a wash coat before any routing to keep sawdust form the inlay from dirtying it up. A closed-grain wood such as birch is less likely to be hampered by this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Option two&lt;/em&gt;. Make a pattern of your infinity symbol and use it to scribe the base as outlined above. Route out the pattern in the base and inlay individual squares of alternating colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Investment in a Dremel is highly worthwhile if you do any handywork around the house or shop. I recommend a cordless version, batteries are long lasting, much more convenient and you need not compensate for the pull of a cord on an otherwise light weight tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can inlay many other materials besides wood veneer. The image below shows one of my guitar headstocks inlaid with abalone, mother-of-pearl and &quot;stars&quot; which are pieces of gold wire set into drilled holes; all sanded flush with the surface. In the lower image, a box for my niece, the ebony oval is inlaid into the surrounding wood. Sivler, gold and MOP have been inlaid into the ebony. If you use these kinds of materials, you can engrave or scratch (scrimshaw) lines into the inlay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qtpOm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qtpOm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gGyI0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gGyI0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's some resources.&#xA;Thick dyed veneers: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dyed-veneer.com/dyed-veneers---thick.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.dyed-veneer.com/dyed-veneers---thick.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Dremel base, cheap.][5] &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/express/u/0/product/8389998418404119239_15480024933055777178_8613692?mall=Arizona&amp;amp;directCheckout=1&amp;amp;utm_source=google_shopping&amp;amp;utm_medium=product_ads&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.google.com/express/u/0/product/8389998418404119239_15480024933055777178_8613692?mall=Arizona&amp;amp;directCheckout=1&amp;amp;utm_source=google_shopping&amp;amp;utm_medium=product_ads&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dremel base, nice: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Tools_by_Job/Tools_for_Inlay_and_Pearl_Cutting/Precision_Router_Base/Precision_Router_Base.html?utm_source=google&amp;amp;utm_medium=shopping&amp;amp;utm_campaign=2017-03-gp&amp;amp;gclid=Cj0KEQjwzd3GBRDks7SYuNHi3JEBEiQAIm6EIwlduJOXoiVw42Eazi4aiQy_wclBhtWWJmvVW-XTKNcaAjiC8P8HAQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Tools_by_Job/Tools_for_Inlay_and_Pearl_Cutting/Precision_Router_Base/Precision_Router_Base.html?utm_source=google&amp;amp;utm_medium=shopping&amp;amp;utm_campaign=2017-03-gp&amp;amp;gclid=Cj0KEQjwzd3GBRDks7SYuNHi3JEBEiQAIm6EIwlduJOXoiVw42Eazi4aiQy_wclBhtWWJmvVW-XTKNcaAjiC8P8HAQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For another option with veneers, search &quot;marquetry&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2762" LastEditorUserId="2762" LastEditDate="2017-03-27T22:52:21.960" LastActivityDate="2017-03-27T22:52:21.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1273" CreationDate="2017-03-26T21:59:00.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found (dewaxed) shellac to be an amazing barrier coat.  I haven't used it as a primary finish since I did decoupage as a kid, but I have sprayed dozens of gallons of dewaxed under both conversion varnish and poly as a barrier to who knows what kinds of muck is soaked into commercial (restaurant) bar tops.  I prefer it over any of the sealers, vinyl or otherwise, that I have tried.  Sprays nice with HVLP and dries at least as fast as lacquer.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3473" LastActivityDate="2017-03-26T21:59:00.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4042" CreationDate="2017-03-27T04:34:34.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably need airflow and a mask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently did 30 seconds of light sanding in my closed garage, while wearing a dust mask. 1 hour later I opened my garage and saw beams of sun light shining through and there was dust floating everywhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I keep the main garage door open and a fan at the other end, and I can see a lot of dust floating outside. Even when doing very small amounts of sanding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It not be a big deal for most, but since I am extra sensitive, I need to take all the precautions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prior to this I had been sensitised to dust, and even coming in the garage a day after sanding gave me a bought of allergies, so I'm guess, the fine particles linger for at least a day after being produced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3502" LastActivityDate="2017-03-27T04:34:34.260" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4042" CreationDate="2017-03-27T11:48:35.087" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any answer you get is going to be based largely on belief and gut feeling rather than hard fact. This is because people's environment and bodies differ greatly; the effects, if any, are usually seen in the very long term; and the most damaging dust is completely invisible. It's hard to know what the truth really is. I doubt anyone can truthfully tell you if you are going to have problems or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I think if you are concerned and want to do something to reduce dust inhalation your best bet by far is to stop sanding inside. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most living rooms have little ventilation and lots of soft furnishings so any dust you make is gonna stick around for you to breathe in long after you are finished. If you vacuum clean then the finest and most harmful dust will not be caught by the bag and will just be recirculated into the air unless &lt;strong&gt;maybe&lt;/strong&gt; you have a vacuum cleaner for allergy sufferers. For this reason I think a mask will be very ineffective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this is a hobby for you and its purpose is to be enjoyable I would remove all health concerns by making a nice area for you to do your sanding outside. It is my understanding that dust is harmless outside as it is quickly carried away by even the lightest breeze and when it gets wet it will fall to the ground and rot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to do that but still want reduce your risk (if there is any) then I'd recommend a proper mask with a silicone seal and replaceable filters for ultra-fine dust. It also has to fit your face well. I'm not convinced the disposable/semi-disposable ones seal to your face well enough to do anything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also ensure your living room is well ventilated. Consider putting a fan in an open window to keep the air moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3343" LastActivityDate="2017-03-27T11:48:35.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1276" CreationDate="2017-03-27T12:59:22.530" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about solid surface? I prefer MDF, but I have a couple of solid surface plates around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whats nice about ss in your application is that in addition to being supremely easy to machine, it will give you an extra bit of tensile  strength over those screw-down-flanges.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3473" LastActivityDate="2017-03-27T12:59:22.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5748" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5749" CreationDate="2017-03-27T13:38:56.000" Score="1" ViewCount="186" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting ready to make a desktop by gluing up thirty 72&quot;H x 1.5&quot;W x .75&quot;D boards of alternating Maple and Mahogany. I'll be gluing the boards on there faces for a final desktop that's ~6' wide and ~1.5&quot; thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My original thought was to alternate the direction of the face grain as I glued them up to help prevent warping. Once I get ~12&quot; (16 boards) glued up I want to run it through my planer to level it up perfectly. My concern is that I had a friend tell me to take care when running a board through a planer to take note of the direction of the grain and to make sure the blades were removing material like so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;O -&gt;&#xA;/////////&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of like so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;O -&gt;&#xA;\\\\\\\\\\&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well if I alternate my grain, I'll have every other board going the wrong way. So do I protect against warp, or use proper planing technicque?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3504" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-03-27T16:28:18.197" LastActivityDate="2017-03-27T21:50:04.833" Title="Prevent warping but allow planing" Tags="|glue|thickness-planer|table-making|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5748" CreationDate="2017-03-27T16:27:12.693" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have glued up similar wood slabs without being overly concerned about grain direction.  Regardless of grain direction the individual boards will control the tendency to warp of adjacent boards to the point where warping should not be a problem in a desk application.  If you had a condition where either the top or bottom was regularly exposed to more humidity and temperature differences than the other then it might be possible that the slab would warp as a whole.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for running the grain through a planer in the direction your friend suggested was to avoid tear out where wood fiber deeper from the surface is pulled out by the planer knives.  The risk of this occurring is greater near knots or in patterned wood grain specimens such as with curly maple where the grain directions may be more vertical to the flow of the material through the planer.  It is a good idea to align the boards to flow as suggested, but when that is not possible then resort to very shallow plane settings so that the knives cannot get a grip on the poorly aligned wood fibers.  This means more passes, but it will usually work just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2017-03-27T16:27:12.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5751" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5756" CreationDate="2017-03-27T20:31:20.817" Score="4" ViewCount="981" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am buying a 1950s Beaver 2300 12&quot;inch bandsaw.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wNVQS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wNVQS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was originally made to be used with a 1/3 to 1/2 hp motor. The bandsaw has a semi-steel cast frame (which I believe is somewhere between cast iron and steel), and aluminum cast wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has been upgraded to a 1 horse power motor. Do you think that is safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the grooved roller.  The blade sites on the left groove (if you face the bandsaw).&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pICIo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pICIo.png&quot; alt=&quot;roller&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JxddZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JxddZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;roller2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3442" LastEditorUserId="3442" LastEditDate="2017-03-31T13:09:48.227" LastActivityDate="2017-03-31T13:09:48.227" Title="Bandsaw Motor Upgrade Horse Power" Tags="|band-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5752" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-27T20:59:22.667" Score="5" ViewCount="513" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a slab of walnut with two live edges. After sanding down the live edges at 150 to remove bark and prep for finishing, I noticed these spots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1bjka.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1bjka.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sanded live edge&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did I over-sand somehow? Or are these some odd spots in the grain? Should I do anything specific with them or leave them be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3332" LastActivityDate="2017-03-28T00:07:29.740" Title="Spots on live edge after sanding" Tags="|sanding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5748" CreationDate="2017-03-27T21:50:04.833" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very smart to glue this thing in stages.  Clamping up 30 of those wet noodles at once would be an adventure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as warping goes, this grain orientation thing is worth a discussion, but the real culprit is moisture, and the balanced (or un-) transfer of it from the wood into the air, as has already been discussed. You've got more sq footage face-glued here than I can figure in my head, and no single board will be able to force the rest of that thing out of alignment. As long as you don't try to fasten that thing down too tight you should be ok.  If you would like to discuss fastening strategies, let me know.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ditto on tear out and lots of passes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many cabinet shops these days have wide belt sanders, and often they will do some sanding for a fee.  I'd check it out, because then you can plane to within a 1/32 or so (hopefully your tearout wont exceed that) and they can have that pretty slick for you.  Around here guys charge anywhere from 100 - 175 an hour for that kind of thing, billable by the hour, and/or maybe buy them a belt.   Figure on paying one hour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am, however, a little concerned about the size of this thing.  I’m not sure about your math, as far as the number of staves you are gluing up, but I might be missing something.  More important is your expected finished top size.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A glue-up using the materials you list above will not give you a top that is 1 ½ thick or 72 long.  I would consider myself doing exceedingly well if I got 1 5/16 and 71.  I might be assuming too little, and if I am I apologize, but I thought I should mention it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3473" LastActivityDate="2017-03-27T21:50:04.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5752" CreationDate="2017-03-28T00:07:29.740" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you're seeing I'm pretty sure is the inside layer of bark, called the &quot;phloem&quot;, some of which is still glued (as it were), to the first layer of wood, the first layer of  cells of which are called the cambium layer.  If you keep sanding, the &quot;rings&quot; will seem to get wider, when in fact you are just abrading the phloem away. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a good discussion of tree parts: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.arborday.org/trees/RingsTreeNatomy.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.arborday.org/trees/RingsTreeNatomy.cfm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3473" LastActivityDate="2017-03-28T00:07:29.740" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5751" CreationDate="2017-03-28T00:41:00.153" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issue is not HP, but RPM.  As long as the motor spins at the manufactures recommended RPM, and you didn't change the gear or pulley that drives the lower wheel, it will spin at the same RPM as with the smaller motor. But it will cut more efficiently under load. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nice looking saw, BTW.  I've never heard of Beaver Brand.  Is that a throat height extender, or is that simply the way it's made? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some things I would check before purchase:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are the wheels coplanar?  If they aren't, it will be hard to get the blade to track right.  Usually issues of planar-ness (whatever you call that condition) can be fairly easily resolved with shims or even tightening something.   &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are the tires in good shape? Changing tires is a serious pain in the butt.  It is a straightforward exercise, however, with plenty of YouTube's to get you through it. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Upper and lower blade guides ok? If they are missing or broken, you can hopefully find replacements, but after market options might be viable. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Deformation in the neck, usually from leaving a fully tensioned blade on for too long.  This isn't the end of the world, but it will effect blade tensioning, blade length, and even planar-icity :). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tensioner spring sprung? They wear out over time.  You can extend spring life with washers, but eventually you bottom out and can't apply enough tension. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3473" LastActivityDate="2017-03-28T00:41:00.153" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5757" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5759" CreationDate="2017-03-28T16:40:54.550" Score="4" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a small (12&quot;D x 24&quot;W) workbench for doing woodwork in my apartment. I want to dovetail the legs to the top, but the tail on the end will be about 1/2&quot; wide on the narrower end. Is this acceptable, given that the tail will be about 1-3/4&quot; deep (thickness of the top)? Will it be too weak? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MO8Qc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MO8Qc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3404" LastActivityDate="2017-03-29T12:41:07.487" Title="How thin can a large dovetail tail be?" Tags="|technique|joinery|design|workbench|dovetail|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5704" CreationDate="2017-03-28T17:03:55.887" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally I had a king sized bed on 4&quot; slats spaced with 5-6&quot; gaps with vertical support on every 4th slat of so. It &lt;strong&gt;really&lt;/strong&gt; wasn't enough support and it lead to my first mattress failing when it was only 4 years old. When I removed the mattress the slats without vertical support were warped downward 2-3&quot;. I ended up reinforcing these with more vertical supports and then to sure the whole things up I screwed down 1/2&quot; plywood across the whole thing. Now my new mattress has a rock solid surface to rest on. It's not super pretty, but it's not seen at all when the mattress is on it, and this was a strong case for function over form. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3504" LastActivityDate="2017-03-28T17:03:55.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5757" CreationDate="2017-03-28T18:40:51.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That joint looks strong enough to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bigger problem, though, is that you will have wood movement issues.  The top will get bigger and smaller seasonally (in the front-to-back direction) while the board you're joining to it will not.  This is because the grain in the top is running perpendicular to the other board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest redesigning this as a sliding dovetail or a pinned mortise and tenon with enlarged pin holes on the tenon (like a breadboard).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This is assuming that the board on the end is oriented in the normal fashion.  If it has the end grain on the top then there would be no problem with movement.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2017-03-28T19:52:34.240" LastActivityDate="2017-03-28T19:52:34.240" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5760" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5765" CreationDate="2017-03-28T18:58:38.043" Score="4" ViewCount="741" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a novice woodworker making a knife handle from two different woods. The front and back of the handle are Indian rosewood, while the middle part is birch root. During sanding, it looks like some dust from the darker wood is getting embedded in the pale wood. Is there a way to prevent this or clean it up before applying the finish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've attached a picture showing the discolored wood next to the block from which it was cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JsgzA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JsgzA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;knife handle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3515" LastActivityDate="2017-03-28T20:15:47.533" Title="Color cross-contamination after sanding" Tags="|sanding|sawdust|handle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5760" CreationDate="2017-03-28T19:11:16.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tries simply washing the wood with warm water? The water will cause the wood to swell and open it's pores. Then you can scrub the wood with a soft cloth to see what's removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3504" LastActivityDate="2017-03-28T19:11:16.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5762" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5764" CreationDate="2017-03-28T19:35:44.553" Score="5" ViewCount="1098" Body="&lt;p&gt;So anything up to 45 degrees is simple, either on a mitre/compound/chop saw, or on a table saw with a mitre gauge/crosscut sled. However, more than that is tricky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mitre saws are out, because they usually only go up to 45-50 degree angles, and would require the work material to be sticking out towards you. Similar problem on a table saw, though at least a sliding table or extension would help support the material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the best way forward? Let's say I wanted to make an equilateral triangle, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3516" LastActivityDate="2017-03-28T20:16:44.810" Title="What's the safest way to machine-cut angle greater than 45 degrees?" Tags="|miter-saw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5760" CreationDate="2017-03-28T19:55:58.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can prevent this by applying a wash coat of whatever finish you're going to use before you start sanding.  The finish will &quot;seal&quot; the pores of the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously this won't work if you're sanding to remove material, instead of just for surface prep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2017-03-28T19:55:58.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5762" CreationDate="2017-03-28T19:58:01.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would use a track saw or a taper jig for the table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I imagine that a European-style sliding table saw would have no problem with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2017-03-28T19:58:01.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5760" CreationDate="2017-03-28T20:10:33.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you moved up the solvent ladder to lacquer thinner or acetone?  That rosewood is oily, and you've likely got to break down that oil to dislodge those particles and dissolve any pigment.  Or - just a shot in the dark - maybe a little household bleach, or even oxalic acid (wood bleach, found at Box Stores).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3473" LastEditorUserId="3473" LastEditDate="2017-03-28T20:15:47.533" LastActivityDate="2017-03-28T20:15:47.533" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5762" CreationDate="2017-03-28T20:16:44.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When doing angled cross cuts using the miter gauge, I find the work piece tends to slip as I move the miter gauge towards the blade. For this, you can build a small sled and clamp it to the miter gauge. This will works pretty well if you are mostly cutting the same angle repeatedly, and if you're cutting pieces with a small enough width to fit on a sled. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sled would look something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hzHs6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hzHs6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Small miter sled&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image credit: Woodsmith eTips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the piece is too big for a sled, or if I am doing just one or two cuts, I will forgo the table saw and in favor of my circular saw instead. Clamp a long straight edge to the work piece as a guide. This works well for plywood and other sheet goods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2017-03-28T20:16:44.810" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5767" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5768" CreationDate="2017-03-28T20:36:39.050" Score="1" ViewCount="6656" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a picture frame and am wondering what type and size glass I should use? The frame will be 16x20&quot;, maybe bigger, so I think I want a fairly thick glass. Would 1/8&quot; be sufficient? Regular plate glass?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastActivityDate="2017-04-03T10:42:09.230" Title="What type and thickness glass should I use in picture frames?" Tags="|framing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5767" CreationDate="2017-03-28T21:09:29.430" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Single strength (3/32) is the standard for picture frames, but I'd start thinking Double strength (1/8) at 16x20 or larger.  1/8 is the standard for cabinet doors, so it will be more than adequate for a picture frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3473" LastActivityDate="2017-03-28T21:09:29.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5770" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-29T01:47:19.807" Score="2" ViewCount="769" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the waterfall side of my table design joined in a stable way to the top and frame? Plan is a hidden spline at the miter joint, and dowel to the frame. Shown as brown in the images linked. First ever furniture project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fdceP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fdceP.png&quot; alt=&quot;front and back view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D7jtu.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D7jtu.png&quot; alt=&quot;top and side frame view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The frame design doesn't show all dowels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3513" LastEditorUserId="3334" LastEditDate="2017-03-29T03:58:53.120" LastActivityDate="2017-03-29T10:56:44.957" Title="Does the waterfall side of my table design have a strong joint?" Tags="|joinery|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3213" CreationDate="2017-03-29T03:57:42.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that the problem appears with the introduction of the sliding capability. If&amp;mdash;in the cutting motion&amp;mdash;the saw blade merely tilts, the forces onto the piece are always down/or to the fence, hence there is no force trying to lift the piece (on square cuts). Instead, when cutting a wide piece- as wide as allowed by the sliding stroke, and the saw is pushed back - the resulting force onto the piece might result being upwards which might be quite dangerous.&#xA;For those reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The sliding motion is a limited fraction  of the blade diameter&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The saw manufacturer ask you to always block down the piece&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's very clear that a sliding saw should be used in a pulling motion after it has been tilted in the rear position. At the end of the tilting stroke, a trigger stop should keep the saw at the dawn position, when the pulling motion begins, then the saw behavior should be identical to that of a radial arm saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that, for real safety  you will need that that trigger stop, should additionally  block the pulling motion if the saw didn't reach its lower position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it happens that this trigger stop has not (yet) been incorporated, hence by limiting the ratio sliding stroke to blade diameter a reasonable safety compromise has been reached. Beyond that, it is better to clamp the piece while pushing for cross cutting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3518" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2017-03-29T12:15:35.617" LastActivityDate="2017-03-29T12:15:35.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5772" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-29T05:37:08.183" Score="5" ViewCount="654" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just like the title says... any way to make this look less bad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dTfjl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dTfjl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bench&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3519" LastActivityDate="2017-04-05T02:31:43.767" Title="My contractor sanded our plywood seating... Is there any way to fix the finish?" Tags="|finishing|sanding|refinishing|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5772" CreationDate="2017-03-29T10:37:14.207" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paint it, or pull off the hardwood edges, veneer over it with a new piece of veneer of the same species, and then apply new edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on if you have multiple other matching finished end conditions, you could create a new trim detail that covers over the affected areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like he face screwed, and then filled the holes with epoxy filler or possibly plugs of some sort, and then did an abysmal job of sanded them flush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I work for a commercial millwork company, and if one of our installers did something like this, after firing them, we would replace that finished end panel completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastActivityDate="2017-03-29T10:37:14.207" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5770" CreationDate="2017-03-29T10:56:44.957" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reasonably strong, however you will probably want to revise it to account for wood movement across the width of your oak leg. That 1x8 oak will account for a fair amount of expansion and contraction over time, and you have accounted for this in your top with the figure 8 fasteners, however for a structural leg as you show, you will have to get a little more creative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could probably route some horizontal slots in the stretcher at the end, and screw the leg into the stretcher through those slots. this way the top can expand and contract across the width, but will not move up or down against the table frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastActivityDate="2017-03-29T10:56:44.957" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5757" CreationDate="2017-03-29T12:41:07.487" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Side  note:  Are you going to incorporate the tail vice into your design?  I think that's a cool bit of whimsy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say you want to dovetail the legs into the top, but I interpret your drawing showing what appears to be the vice pad, not legs.  I'm sure I'm missing something.  Can you post a couple of different views of that end - actually, both ends, if you wouldn't mind? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was going to argue with @Dukesilver on wood movement, but if you are going to run the grain on that end wood perpendicular to the top, as opposed to in line with it (like a drawer box), then I have to agree that serious caution is in order. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree on strength, (if everything is oriented correctly) although I would add a center tail.  The extra mechanical forces are necessary to hold that expanse of end-grain-to-face-grain together.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3473" LastActivityDate="2017-03-29T12:41:07.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5772" CreationDate="2017-03-29T15:04:38.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One other possible solution is to apply a decorative trim pattern that covers over the screw/blemish locations. I would begin by sanding the entire surface to provide a surface to accept glue and new finish. Then glue and clamp new trim over affected areas using trim in a profile and design that compliments the project's style.   You might also use fine gauge finish nails to reinforce the attachment of the trim if there is difficulty clamping it.  Clean up any glue squeeze out with a wet cloth immediately. Let it dry, lightly sand and apply new finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh yeah, finally, I would offer to repair the contractor's furniture using the same techniques used on yours:)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2017-03-29T15:04:38.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5777" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5778" CreationDate="2017-03-29T15:49:19.980" Score="3" ViewCount="1766" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a small box that will be used to hold mail, and I came up with the following design, with keyed miters on all the outside joints and dados for the dividers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Zd7o.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Zd7o.png&quot; alt=&quot;box&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been reading recently about wood movement and I'm wondering if this design won't work, or if it's something I won't have to really worry about. Is there a certain grain orientation I should use? Currently, the grain on the front, back and sides runs horizontal and the grain on the bottom piece runs the length of the box. Should I change the grain of the sides to run vertically so their width can expand/contract with the width of the bottom piece?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Made with poplar (not sure yet which wood to use for the keys)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Size is about 15&quot; x 5.5&quot; x 5.5&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3474" LastActivityDate="2017-03-29T16:29:38.670" Title="Proper grain orientation for a box" Tags="|wood-movement|boxes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5777" CreationDate="2017-03-29T16:29:38.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Running the grain vertically on the sides would be highly unusual. If this were a problem to consider, you've now shifted the issue to expansion differences between the sides and the front/back! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've built dozens of jewelry boxes and perhaps a hundred other boxes. All have the grain of the sides parallel to that of the front and back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, there's no reason to not run the grain of the sides vertically if you like the idea. However, this will expose end grain on the top (and maybe bottom depending on your design). This is where moisture is more frequently exchanged with the atmosphere so it would be prudent to seal this in some way, most finishes will suffice. If you run the side grain horrizontally, the glue joints with front and back will do the sealing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2762" LastActivityDate="2017-03-29T16:29:38.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5779" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5780" CreationDate="2017-03-29T18:18:50.763" Score="9" ViewCount="17536" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a PVC dust collection system comprised of 3&quot; piping through my shop. It works pretty well, except I would benefit from a bit more airflow. I have two shop vacs, one of which is pretty much dedicated to this task, the other is just a miscellaneous use one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I hook them up to the same outlet on the pipe, can I increase the airflow through the pipe? The pipe will support it (by my calculations) but I am not sure if it is effective by having the two vacs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also don't want to stress the motors or cause the fuse to blow continuously, so this is not a 'try it and see' scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3520" LastActivityDate="2019-06-16T05:05:59.300" Title="Can you hook up two shop-vacs in parallel to increase airflow through a dust collection system?" Tags="|dust-collection|shop|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5779" CreationDate="2017-03-29T19:53:31.627" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;This could work, but you would want them setup to run in parallel, and not in series I would think. For example at the end of your ductwork, you have a Y that splits right into the two vacuums. My guess is the stronger vacuum will end up with the majority of your dust. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However if you set this up with a cyclone, you can still centralize all of the dust collection into a single bin, and still utilize the suction of two vacuums.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest issue I can see happening is if you ever get a blockage, or accidentally close all of your gates, the vacuums will in essence be fighting each other in the closed system, and the weaker one will blow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2753" LastActivityDate="2017-03-29T19:53:31.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5772" CreationDate="2017-03-30T00:59:16.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Already proposed re-veneering is a good idea but not easy (removing edges) &#xA;and veneer is probably difficult to find.&#xA;My ideas involve some cheating:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get some artist pencils with suitable colors and try to create missing grain back. &#xA;Then spray shellac from a can. I am not sure if during finishing area should &#xA;be horizontal, but that wont hurt for sure.&#xA;Those darker dowels are probably more difficult to fix than brighter areas.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make a good photo of veneer from other areas, print and glue into whole area inside &#xA;edging. Maybe some moisture resistant paper + wood glue or some self adhesive paper?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck, it is not an easy fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2820" LastActivityDate="2017-03-30T00:59:16.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5772" CreationDate="2017-03-30T12:37:28.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just a thought on the cheating side:  Might those infills be colored beeswax?  If so, might you be able to melt/syphon some of that muck with an iron and a cotton cloth? At least enough to backfill with a more suitable base color.  Then you could apply @omark's fix with pencils.  We use oils, ourselves, to add grain or knots to minor blemishes. But the operative word is &quot;minor&quot;, like &lt;strong&gt;a&lt;/strong&gt; blemish in a library full of panels.  I cannot imagine lying on my side for hours fixing your panel - but everyone is different, and that could be an appealing solution.  I mean that without a trace of sarcasm - I am always amazed at how things I detest can be found satisfying or beautiful to others.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@Omark's other idea definitely has merit, if you can't find that veneer.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3473" LastActivityDate="2017-03-30T12:37:28.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5767" CreationDate="2017-03-31T05:55:45.040" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use archival non glare glass 3/32, i buy in bulk and cut it to my dimensions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2917" LastActivityDate="2017-03-31T05:55:45.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5703" CreationDate="2017-03-31T15:34:05.477" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe to late.. but try these hinges.. POJJO Home Depot $&#xA;24.50 a pair 1.25 x 3.75 90 Degree Extend Tip Out Hidden Hinge in Chrome (1 Pair)&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DB7b7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DB7b7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3525" LastActivityDate="2017-03-31T15:34:05.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5785" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-31T21:27:28.487" Score="3" ViewCount="818" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to screw &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pUFVA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this solid wood tabletop&lt;/a&gt; (the long one in the back, it's beech wood)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rgOf4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rgOf4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;onto &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h82xN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this steel frame&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F4dnI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F4dnI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The slab's dimensions are going to be 200 x 80 cm. I read that &quot;wood moves&quot;, so I would have to screw the table top on in a way that allows for movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that none of the methods that I've read about that allow for movement are compatible with the screw holes facing up in the frame.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W6rbc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W6rbc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I solve this? Should I worry about movement for this type of tabletop at all or can I just screw it fixed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's another photo of how the wood is supposed to look after it's been oiled:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3vItv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3vItv.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3526" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-04-01T02:58:31.917" LastActivityDate="2017-04-05T09:21:28.180" Title="Installing a solid wood tabletop on this steel frame" Tags="|table-making|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5785" CreationDate="2017-03-31T22:20:34.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should probably be ok. You can try it out and see if it is too flimsy for your use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the screws are too creaky, you can add angles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kV44d.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kV44d.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2017-03-31T22:20:34.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5785" CreationDate="2017-04-01T01:33:05.023" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The over-sized screw holes will certainly allow the table top to expand and contract without splitting.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if the changes across the grain take up the slack allowed by the larger holes, the frame itself will likely flex enough to allow for the wood movement without splitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the whole project is a winner - go for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2017-04-01T01:33:05.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5785" CreationDate="2017-04-01T15:03:33.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We use very few screws in our solid wood countertops - we installed a commercial 27' x 9' L-shaped shaped bar with only two hold-down screws some years back.  But when we do, we bore a 1/2&quot; hole in the member to which it will be attached, and use a black #2 screw and washers to attach it. We also lubricate on the bearing side of the washer.  Overkill? Yeah, but call backs are expensive, and we don't get them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So anyway, I would be inclined to bore those holes out and use a smaller screw.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3473" LastActivityDate="2017-04-01T15:03:33.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5785" CreationDate="2017-04-02T20:30:57.077" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nothing to worry about those solid wood tabletops. They have been heat treated which means; unless you soak them into water, nothing (significant) happens to your table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3533" LastActivityDate="2017-04-02T20:30:57.077" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5767" CreationDate="2017-04-03T10:42:09.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thickness of 3 mm is quite enough. The thicker it gets heavier which probably could create a problem; especially in big frames. In big frames (width bigger than &gt;100 cm) the frame tends to bend because of the weight of glass and frame itself.&#xA;You may want to support your frame in the bottom line with carefullyy hided topless nails.&#xA;And the quality of glass for frames? It depends on how much you want to afford. Please take a took at this link: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.frameusa.com/blog/what-are-the-different-types-of-picture-framing-glass/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.frameusa.com/blog/what-are-the-different-types-of-picture-framing-glass/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3533" LastActivityDate="2017-04-03T10:42:09.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5572" CreationDate="2017-04-03T11:38:15.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Following the safety instructions never hurt anyone. I mean &amp;quot;general woodworking safety instructions&amp;quot;. Some exotic woods are dangerous for human health, some are highly allergic. But you never know. I strongly suggest using a full face shield and a dust mask (at least FFP1 grade) while working with hand tools on wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FFP2 grade is better with finer particles. If you work with chemicals, you will need a FFP3 grade mask. Whatever grade, masks with valves are better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3533" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2021-01-26T16:34:46.067" LastActivityDate="2021-01-26T16:34:46.067" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5792" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5793" CreationDate="2017-04-04T00:56:00.153" Score="3" ViewCount="692" Body="&lt;p&gt;It wasn't until I got this gate piece screwed, glued, and hung up that I noticed there's a slight warp to it. I think it's due to just one piece in particular, but at this point I think I'm cooked. (Would have to drill out pocket hole plugs, dissolve the glue, and unscrew to replace the board.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to fix this? Hand plane it perhaps? (Newbie woodworker.) It's not awful, maybe a 1/4&quot; gap. Enough to bug me though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R7K6A.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R7K6A.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Gate&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KKOoT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KKOoT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Trying to show the bowing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1triC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1triC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Trying to show the bowing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RJWPB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RJWPB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Gate location&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3535" LastEditorUserId="3535" LastEditDate="2017-04-06T03:40:10.630" LastActivityDate="2017-04-06T03:40:10.630" Title="Any way to straighten this wood gate piece?" Tags="|warp|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5792" CreationDate="2017-04-04T02:10:27.140" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;At this point it's done, for all practical purposes.  If it were really important to straighten this thing out, and you were going to paint it, you could plow a dado, insert a &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/ysKRHdIaaEg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Guitar Truss Rod&lt;/a&gt; , and Bondo over it.  Don't laugh - they've helped us out of a couple of jams over the years.  We even have a few made up, just in case. But it's a pretty extreme fix, and doesn't sounds like you need it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can more than likely cheat the hinges in some way to compensate for that little bit of warp. Depending on what type of hinges you used, you could twist a leaf, or bend the pin, or simply push one hinge a bit out of alignment with the other.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you could post what type of hinges you will be using, I'm sure several folks have tricks for cheating those hinges. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3473" LastActivityDate="2017-04-04T02:10:27.140" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5794" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-05T02:02:03.660" Score="4" ViewCount="10235" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never used a hand plane before, but recently decided to give hand planing a go.  I purchased a Lie-Nielsen No. 5 Jack Plane.  For a project to experiment with, I threw together a simple long grain cutting board made with alternating maple and walnut - smoothed first through a machine surface planer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had this idea that I would be able to run the hand plane over the surface of the (already smooth) cutting board and peel off whisper-thin shavings.  Especially with a new plane and a new blade.  Unfortunately, I can't find the sweet-spot between &quot;the blade's not even touch the wood&quot; and &quot;there's no coming back from a gouge that deep...&quot;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So where do I go from here?  Is my flaw entirely technique and I just need to keep practicing?  Or does an out-of-the-box blade need to be &quot;sharpened&quot; first?  Maybe just a tool setup issue? Or, have I selected an inherently difficult practice project  (or inherently difficult for a jack plane)?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3542" LastActivityDate="2017-04-05T19:29:23.527" Title="How do I use a handplane to smooth a cutting board?" Tags="|plane|hand-planing|cutting-board|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5772" CreationDate="2017-04-05T02:31:43.767" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;New veneer would definitely be the best solution if possible. You might also consider a laminate you can apply only to the sides on both ends, balancing the piece and making it look like the original design was to do that. Another alternative would be to lacquer over the side panels, though if you've never applied lacquer before be sure to practice on some scrap - it can be hard to get a good finish and you'll want to either sand/fill or remove enough of the patch your contractor applied to restore some amount of grain (any open grain on the wood will show up on the lacquer coats). If it were me, I'd remove the end panels and remake them (sorry!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3543" LastActivityDate="2017-04-05T02:31:43.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5794" CreationDate="2017-04-05T03:07:31.367" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Odds are your that your plane is not sharp enough and is not correctly set yet for your project.  A quick test is to attempt shaving a few hairs off of your arm with the iron.  If the blade tugs instead of shaves, you need to sharpen it further. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are plenty of questions and answers on this site that discuss problems and techniques for planing success. Check out the &quot;related questions&quot; list that pops up when you select your specific question to find more. You can also use select the tag to find other questions on planing or  use the search option for keywords such as &quot;tearout&quot;.  There are also quite a few instructional videos available online that can help you develop  your personal technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding sharpening, I would first say that regardless of how sharp the plane iron may be out of the box, you are going to need to resharpen it very quickly, I have sharpened irons several times in a day when doing a lot of hand work.  (Although intitial sharpening can take a while, touching up the iron can be done in under a minute).  So you are going to need a sharpening system right away.  Popular sharpening systems include diamond or waterstone surfaces in multiple grits ranging from approx 800 to 2200 grit, and may be done solely by hand or using a honing guide to assist your handling of the plane iron.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While a Lie-Nielsen plane may be better out of the box then many brands, most hand plane enthusiasts will perform additional tuning steps to insure the plane is properly set for best performance. Note that pros use different planes in different sizes and configurations for different tasks. Setup tasks include checking the bottom for flatness, verifying the frog is properly set to provider the correct throat clearance for the iron, setting the plane iron cap (chip breaker) to the proper offset to the plane iron edge for the plane's intended usage, and insuring that the blade is fully sharpened top and bottom. Discussing how to performing each of these steps properly could fill a page or more of text so I would suggest that you check out a few youtube videos first and come back with specific questions.  Paul Sellers has some good introductory videos on planing that should help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other consideration is that not all wood is easily planed.  The problem is not so much the species as it is the orientation of the grain. If you plane against the grain you increase the risk of tear out. You avoid this by planing with the grain (the grain lines move up out of the wood as you move along). There are plenty of answers on this site addressing this problem as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-04-05T17:40:41.943" LastActivityDate="2017-04-05T17:40:41.943" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5794" CreationDate="2017-04-05T08:34:08.200" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had this idea that I would be able to run the hand plane over the surface of the (already smooth) cutting board and peel off whisper-thin shavings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes that is exactly what you should be able to do so don't despair you haven't bought into something that isn't going to deliver what you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally since you got a no. 5, or jack plane, it's not always used for this task. Some users do like them as longer smoothers but the primary traditional use for a plane of this size was to roughly dimension stock or take off a rough exterior before moving on to a fore or try plane to flatten, followed by final smoothing using a smoothing plane roughly the size of a no. 3 or 4 modern hand plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I can't find the sweet-spot between &amp;quot;the blade's not even touch the wood&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;there's no coming back from a gouge that deep...&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my flaw entirely technique and I just need to keep practicing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't a technique issue, the plane itself should be capable of preventing this from happening. There's a 100% chance this is a setup issue and a 95% further chance that it's to do with the cap iron or chipbreaker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oddly, although everyone will recommend honing as step one in addressing planing issues this probably &lt;em&gt;isn't&lt;/em&gt; a sharpness issue. L-N's are shipped sharp I believe and while it's likely that you can get the iron sharper than they send it out in practice it's not necessary for a plane iron to be super-duper sharp as I've mentioned in a few previous Answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a plane iron sharp enough to cleanly slice paper is sufficient for most work, only the very finest work requires a shaving-sharp edge or finer than that (hair-poppingly sharp) because of the action of the cap iron. It's very different in a single-iron plane where absolute sharpness is key to performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By all means give the iron a quick hone if you want, sharper certainly won't hurt, but as I say there's an extremely good chance the problem lies with your setting of the cap iron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cap iron/chipbreaker setting&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;As you're using your no. 5 as a smoothing plane you ignore the typical written advice on how far back to set the cap iron from the edge for a jack and set it exactly as per the advice for smoothing planes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I mention in previous Answers the ideal setting for smoothing work is very close to the edge, specifically 1/64&amp;quot; (0.4mm) or less*. You won't be able to measure this reliably so just learn to do it by eye, it's easy after just a little practise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might benefit from some other information in those previous Answers so I'll link to them here:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5460/hand-plane-controls-bevel-down/5462#5462&quot;&gt;hand plane controls (bevel down)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4763/different-ways-to-set-up-a-number-4-bench-plane/4766#4766&quot;&gt;Different ways to set up a Number 4 bench plane&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4133/fettling-a-hand-plane/4150#4150&quot;&gt;Fettling a hand plane&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fettling the cap iron&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I don't know with an L-N whether this is needed but in addition to the setting of the cap iron you may need to perform the basic initial setup of its leading edge to ensure that it mates perfectly with the back of the iron. One or more of the links provided in the above Answers has information on how to do that so I won't try to describe it here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if the cap iron needs fettling do that. Then set it very close to the edge, reinstall the irons, adjust for a light cut and you should be able to plane away to your heart's content. And incidentally if you can get it set &lt;em&gt;just so&lt;/em&gt; you won't need to worry about grain direction!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*When the traditional setting for a jack plane was something on the order of 1/16&amp;quot;-1/8&amp;quot; (1.6mm-3mm) or even more than that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2017-04-05T08:34:08.200" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5785" CreationDate="2017-04-05T09:21:28.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should I worry about movement for this type of tabletop at all or can I just screw it fixed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you always have to consider wood movement with components made from solid wood. And the larger the pieces are the more important this is because the total movement is greater. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition you have a greater concern because this is European beech, Fagus sylvatica, because it is subject to greater changes in dimension that many other woods — double that of some pines, triple that of iroko! So the this top could change width by more than 2cm (an inch for Imperial users) between the wettest part of the year and the driest part of the year in a climate with wide swings in humidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The problem is that none of the methods that I've read about that allow for movement are compatible with the screw holes facing up in the frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hate to say it but I think that's because that leg framework just isn't designed for a solid-wood top. The movement here could easily exceed the small amount of play of those screws in those holes (in fact I think this is likely based on my guesses of the dimensions), which would at least begin to work the screws loose after a few cycles of expansion and contraction. In extreme cases this type of strain can snap screws in half before they pull free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not too difficult to work around the problem however. If I were doing this I'd lengthen those holes slightly* to make them into short slots oriented 90° to the long sizes of the top. Then I'd install the screws with washers underneath their heads to spread their load and allow them to slide more easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Using a carbide burr in a drill or a round hand file, depending on how tough the steel was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-04-05T09:21:28.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5794" CreationDate="2017-04-05T15:57:29.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Little to add to two excellent answers except opinions: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You just got your driver's license and you are driving a Bentley.  Not a bad thing, except that you will never get to experience the magic of going from a Mercury Montego to a Bentley.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shaving whispers of wood is a basic skill.  But it's still a skill that has to be learned.  That takes time.  Hang in there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This plane of yours will serve you and the generations that follow you.  If you heed Graphus and Ashlar, it will serve you well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3473" LastActivityDate="2017-04-05T15:57:29.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5794" CreationDate="2017-04-05T17:53:28.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An addition to existing answers. I used to surface complexly grained woods such as Brazilian Rosewood for guitar backs and sides with planes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Run the plane over the stock at an angle such that the blade makes a 30-45 degree angle with the direction of the plane. The more erratic the grain, the steeper the angle. This will not remedy improper plane adjustments but will yield smoother results especially in your example of alternating woods that are not likely to have their grain uniform and aligned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pull the plane rather than push. This offers more control and is less tiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resort to cabinet scrapers for the finish &quot;planing&quot;. (This, however, does present the challenge of properly sharpening and burnishing a scraper.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Very lightly&lt;/em&gt; &quot;round&quot; the outer ends of the blade, maybe on the order of 0.2 mm. I suspect I may get arguments on this but I find it minimizes the propensity of the blade to furrow into the wood when the blade is less than perfectly square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2762" LastEditorUserId="2762" LastEditDate="2017-04-05T19:29:23.527" LastActivityDate="2017-04-05T19:29:23.527" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5583" CreationDate="2017-04-05T18:22:15.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I concur with Jacob Edmond, part# 1310049 is the part you want.   There are a limited range of tapers so other chucks will fit. If you look at Jacob's link note the replacement chuck fits 25 other models &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ereplacementparts.com/chuck-p-82793.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1310049 Chuck and Key&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the rusted chuck, heat can break the bonds of rust, as does a good hard wack (but the chuck can be damaged if you go nuts). Applying WD40 or penetrating oil can help. Some folks will bake a rusted part (150 degrees F) and soak in oil and repeat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest googling among the machinist's groups for more radical approaches.  The manual can be found here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.manualslib.com/manual/37326/Delta-Shopmaster-Dp350.html#manual&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Delta DP350 Manual&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n9WtK.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n9WtK.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Parts Diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastActivityDate="2017-04-05T18:22:15.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5802" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-07T13:07:57.443" Score="5" ViewCount="8764" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, we LOVE our country cedar home, with pine walls EVERYWHERE. I've painted over them in the kids rooms and it looks great! But I don't want it to come to that in the main rooms. The stain is yellowish and orange-y. We love the wood but hate the color. It's been treated as well, and has a shiny gloss-like chemical over top. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would love to be able to strip it some how and re-stain to a darker color, and more dull like. How can I remove the existing finish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3551" LastEditorUserId="2524" LastEditDate="2017-04-07T14:38:03.247" LastActivityDate="2019-08-22T04:11:11.600" Title="How to remove finish on T&amp;G solid wood pine paneling on walls?" Tags="|refinishing|pine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5803" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-07T14:19:59.940" Score="0" ViewCount="674" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently acquired a low-budget ($80) 18V cordless,  hand-held circular saw. The saw came with a low-budget 18-teeth ripping blade. I intend to use it mostly for cross-cutting  wood planks, and cutting thin (at most 18mm (2/3’’)) plywood and laminated particleboard for making simple furniture: shelves, boxes etc. I might want to use it occasionally on other materials (plastic, aluminum), but wood and engineered wood are the main applications. I’m aware of the limitations of this tool, and I can live with a bit of sanding, if I have to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for an optimal cross-cut/general purpose blade in order to achieve the smoothest possible cuts given the limits of this machine. The tool is very small, the maximum blade diameter is 150mm (6’’). Few manufacturers produce this blade size, so given my location and budget, my options seem to be limited to the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(kerf/blade thickness, no. of teeth, geometry+hook angle, “non-stick” coating, price (all dim. in mm))&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More expensive:&#xA;no1 (3.2/2.2, 48 teeth, ATB +15, coated, $45); &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;no2 (3.2/2.2, 36 teeth, ATB +15, coated, $42);&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;no3 (2.6/1.6, 36 teeth, ATB +10, coated, $43.5) thin kerf&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheaper:&#xA;no4 (2.4/1.4, 36 teeth, ATB +15, not coated, $21)  - thinner kerf, not coated; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;no5, multi material (2.0/1.4, 42T, HLTCG -5, not coated, $27) – thin kerf, different geometry&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As far as I understand, increasing number of teeth, smaller (or negative) hook angle and larger kerf all increase the load on the saw’s motor. Should I be wary of an overload if I choose the “smoothest” blade (i.e. full kerf, 48 teeth)? Which of the factors listed above is the most important with respect to motor load/potential burning of the workpiece (kerf, geometry, hook angle, or no. of teeth)?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does blade coating have a significant effect on performance (by reducing friction, which could be important given the low power of the tool)? Is this effect (and better materials) worth double the price?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any experience with ATB (Alternate Top Bevel) vs HLTCG (High-Low Triple Chip Grind) geometry? Would the negative-angle HLTCG blade result in better cuts on laminated particleboard, plywood, etc.? Is HLTCG significantly worse for other wood applications (i.e. is it specialized to composites and plastics)? Would it significantly increase loads on the motor, or does the thinner kerf of the Multi Material blade compensate for the negative hook angle?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your input, your help is most appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3552" LastEditorUserId="3552" LastEditDate="2017-04-07T14:45:25.333" LastActivityDate="2017-04-12T08:51:52.320" Title="Considerations for cordless circular saw blades - effects of kerf, coating and geometry on performance?" Tags="|power-tools|tool-selection|saw-blade|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5803" CreationDate="2017-04-07T15:00:39.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're overthinking this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presumably, the tool was designed to work with any off-the-shelf blade you might buy, and does not require any space-age coatings, specific grind, etc. Depending on the manufacturer, there is a good chance that any aftermarket blade you buy will be higher quality than the blade that came with the tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of the factors you've mentioned, a thin kerf blade will make the most noticeable difference, and perhaps you will observe a longer run time of the saw between charges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often when it comes to blades, there is a justifiable reason for a higher price, such as carbide vs. steel (a carbide blade stays sharp longer and may last you many times longer than a steel one), or thicker carbide that can be sharpened many times vs. very thin carbide cutters that cannot be sharpened as many times (and in those cases, it is usually just as cost-effective to treat the blade as disposable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2017-04-07T15:00:39.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5806" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-07T16:26:07.970" Score="0" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;first of all I'm sorry if I write something wrong, but English is not my native language and I'm not a professional woodworker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm searching for application that will help me to plan alignment of OSB boards on walls, roof and floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to build shed for chickens (sorry if correct name is different).&lt;br&gt;I'd like to use OSB boards that come in size 2500mm x 1250mm.&#xA;Because I'd like to buy only the amount I need I'd like to plan how much I must order and how much wast I'll have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried searching over the internet, but I found the opposite of what I need, for example MaxCut or Optimik. Those applications are positioning items on single board. I need different thing - fill six rectangles with minimum amount of boards and minimum amount of waste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I can draw that by hand, but I'm sure there must be tool that will help me do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if this StackExchange site is correct one to ask, but my question is woodworking related, so I thing this is correct place to ask for help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3553" LastActivityDate="2017-04-11T20:41:24.393" Title="Application for OSB board plans - fill rectangle with minimum amount of boards" Tags="|planning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5802" CreationDate="2017-04-08T07:41:35.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This isn't an easy job no matter which way it's tackled. Well, unless you paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That godawful yellow/orange shiny finish is almost certainly varnish. Varnishes slowly yellow over time, but note that the pine itself will be part of it as the wood darkens slightly, and usually yellows, with exposure to light. Some subspecies of pine are also very notably yellow, much more so than the very white pine commonly sold in home centres today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the age of your house and the time since the last refinish the varnish may also be what's called &quot;gel stain&quot; (thickened varnish with colour added) which could have actually been at that colour strait from the can, to immediately give the honey-yellow associated with old T&amp;amp;G pine panelling. I hate it too but some people love that colour!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So anyway, I think your options are strip, scrape or sand to get back to bare wood, or paint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stripping&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Chemical strippers are an excellent way to remove old finishes and often to be preferred over other methods. But if there's a large amount of wood to deal with stripping in situ could be an absolute nightmare job. Not just because of the amount of work but because you're dealing with a vertical surface, which is traditionally challenging to strip. And not least because this is inside rooms in your home, where you don't want to be using lots of chemicals — the fumes &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; spread throughout the house to some degree, especially if you have central air. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition the sheer volume of stripper necessary for a large job can be far more than you'd anticipate. For the panelling in a single room it might take two applications on every surface and that could mean three or four cans just for that one room. Multiply up for however many rooms you have to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, you need — this is not optional unless you want to poison yourselves — solvent-rated respirators (these aren't cheap) for everyone doing the work &lt;em&gt;or in the room while it's being done&lt;/em&gt;, eye shields, suitable rubber or nitrile gloves with long cuffs preferrably, drop cloths, multiple brushes, scraping tools or scrubbing pads, loads of wiping cloths or paper towels and a few other bits and pieces. And once you're done stripping the wood needs to be rinsed down and will likely need a light sanding to prepare it, so you're doing some sanding as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also &lt;strong&gt;heat stripping&lt;/strong&gt; which has fallen out of favour in recent years. It requires a heat gun or blowtorch, scrapers, heavy gloves and eye protection. Wearing a respirator can be advisable doing this as well. Localised scorching of the wood is a constant risk with this method so it's often advised not to do in except when painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scraping&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Homeowners don't scrape old finishes much any more but pros often prefer it where appropriate because of its efficiency and cheapness — no sanding materials to purchase, no chemicals, just one or two scrapers and the means to sharpen them. So it's very cheap. But it does require physical effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Large flat surfaces are the main thing where scraping is an excellent choice, at least technically. But again because of the size of the job and that these are vertical surfaces it would be a very demanding job physically. I would normally prefer this and would be recommending it but for these factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sanding&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Sanding you shouldn't even consider IMO. But many people have done this sort of thing by sanding in this era of power sanders and will continue to do so. However, not only is it still far more work than people expect you're converting that varnish into dust and no matter how good the dust extraction on the sander some of it will escape. And fine sanding dusts can end up &lt;em&gt;everywhere&lt;/em&gt;, and take days or weeks to fully clean up. In the meantime you'll be breathing some of it in. This isn't a desirable prospect just in a workshop, far less so in the home you live in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Paint&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Obviously you could paint over them as you've done elsewhere. This doesn't have to be a single uniform colour if you want, there are many other possibilities, I know you don't want to paint in these rooms but this may end up looking like the most attractive option because it would probably the least work by far, unless you...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pay someone to do the work for you&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This may be one case when paying someone for their effort is well worth it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to do the work yourselves there is one other option I would consider. I'm not comfortable putting this as &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; solution but I think it could be the best bet with a large amount of tongue and groove to deal with, ready? *gulp* &lt;strong&gt;Take down and deal with elsewhere&lt;/strong&gt;. So you'd uninstall them (carefully!), strip them* or scrape them (much easier to scrape boards when they're horizontal) and then refinish and finally reinstall. It's a big job no matter how you look at it but arguably it's the best way if you want to retain the existing wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a final option I don't want to even mention but for completeness I have to include it..... &lt;strong&gt;rip out and replace&lt;/strong&gt;. This is terribly wasteful of course but as awful as it sounds many times it's cheaper than keeping the existing boards, either in money or time or effort or all three. So if you do the math it can make the most sense economically. This is why this route would often be the one chosen by contractors if they aren't overpainting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*In the garden or the garage or on the driveway. Or, have them stripped professionally but there's a risk here that the boards could warp from the process and there's no comeback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-04-08T07:41:35.130" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5806" CreationDate="2017-04-08T07:51:55.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know that there is any such software but you could do this old-school.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scale plan and paper&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Using a scale plan and small pieces of paper cut to size to represent the OSB you can play with various placements of full and half/quarter sheets until you find an arrangement that uses the material as neatly as possible. Probably won't take long once you get started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Build using the OSB to dictate sizes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Another way of looking at this is plan the sheds based on the size of the OSB, that way the dimensions of the building are based on the available panels which makes it a very efficient use of material. The chickens won't mind that their home isn't the size you were originally planning :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-04-08T07:51:55.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5809" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5816" CreationDate="2017-04-08T09:50:54.853" Score="2" ViewCount="2306" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made an aquarium stand out of solid Ash and now want to clear lacquer the wood to finish it off. Given the aquarium is a salt water one what sort of lacquer would be best to chemically resist salt water spillages? I intend to also spray the finish on and am looking to achieve a nice finish, what's the best process to accomplish this? Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3555" LastActivityDate="2017-04-10T08:35:38.570" Title="Appropriate Lacquer to resist salt water" Tags="|water-protection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5810" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-08T12:33:54.713" Score="1" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've tried looking arround but posts are usually about giving a piece of furniture a certain color and such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to know if there is an accessible method for a newbie to paint (I was thinking with spray, like if it was for a graffity), a piece of wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My idea is to have the infinity symbol on it, but the problem is that I don't know if there is materials specially for this kind of thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the wood is nice I was thinking of leaving it like that, or maybe also painting a dark background so as to highlight the symbol itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there another, maybe better, way to simply paint wood? It seems easy in my mind but when I look for tutorials everything is so complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3499" LastActivityDate="2017-04-08T12:33:54.713" Title="How to paint a piece of wood with spray" Tags="|technique|wood|design|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5811" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-08T12:55:46.570" Score="3" ViewCount="10490" Body="&lt;p&gt;I screwed these hairpin legs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hcstore.net/Hairpin-Leg-Triplo-75cm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.hcstore.net/Hairpin-Leg-Triplo-75cm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to a simple wood board to make a dining table, but the table is too unstable.&#xA;I know that tables must have this framing structure so legs don't get wobbly, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pCdtB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pCdtB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but shouldn't the framing touch and be attached to the legs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, how to make a stable table with hairpin legs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3556" LastActivityDate="2021-01-26T22:56:18.010" Title="How to stabilize a table with hairpin legs?" Tags="|furniture|table-making|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5809" CreationDate="2017-04-08T16:10:51.143" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out &quot;spar varnish&quot;. This is formulated for use in marine envirouments (a spar is a wooden member supporting sails such as masts and booms). These, at least traditionally, are oil based. Oils not only repel water but, to my best guess as a Chemistry teacher, should not want to interact with other hydrophyllic substances such as salt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also my choice for nice exterior wooden doors as it also resists deterioration due to the sun. I refinished our front door 25 years ago, it's still looking good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other type of oil finishes used for, say, teak decks and rails might also be appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2762" LastActivityDate="2017-04-08T16:10:51.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5811" CreationDate="2017-04-09T08:37:02.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I know that tables must have this framing structure so legs don't get wobbly,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tables don't need this sort of framing to be stable, there are many thousands of tables (and seating benches) that don't have any — not least as seen in the pictures of the legs you purchased ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In summary, how to make a stable table with hairpin legs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The hairpin legs need to be built well enough that they aren't too springy. The ones you link to seem like they'd be more than good enough in this regard with the third rod welded inside the 'hairpin' shape (many similar legs don't have this added rod which presumably acts as a stiffener).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thick top*. A thick top is stiffer and it will also provide a more secure fixing for fasteners.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attach the legs securely — use enough screws and the screws need to be fat enough and/or long enough to hold well in whatever material is chosen for the top (solid wood holds screws better than MDF or chipboard/particleboard).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the right type of screws for the material. MDF and chipboard/particleboard benefit from using screws specifically intended for them, while solid wood works fine with normal wood screws.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Space the legs evenly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Space the legs wide enough apart that they make a stable structure — the closer the legs are together the more unstable the shape formed because the table ends up top-heavy (the centre of gravity is high). When the legs are attached wider apart the centre of gravity lowers. Lower centre of gravity = more stable. If your table is not that wide for its length position the legs as near to the long edges as possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*If the table is wide enough. The narrower the table the &lt;em&gt;thinner&lt;/em&gt; you want the top (within reason obviously) so that it isn't as top-heavy. 12mm material can be strong enough for a table that sees regular use, without framing or other reinforcement, although go thicker if you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-04-09T08:37:02.207" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5802" CreationDate="2017-04-09T13:27:06.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you have access to professional equipment, you have two feasible options: Paint It, or Leave It.  In either case, it will be in style every 15 years or so :) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree that sanding is not an option, for anyone, under nearly any circumstance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put scraping in the same pile as sanding.  Ever tried to scrape old varnish with a card scraper? Not quite like smoothing out your little pine console table top.  So then you have to move to something heavier duty, which gives uneven results, so then you have to sand  it. if you took the boards down and laid them flat, you still have a couple of good hours of serious drudgery Per Board, plus demo and reinstall.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Toning is also an option but the only way I know how to do it on such a scale would be with serious air (10 cfm+) and expensive spray equipment.  If you have access to that kind of stuff I would be happy to discuss it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3473" LastActivityDate="2017-04-09T13:27:06.430" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5809" CreationDate="2017-04-10T08:35:38.570" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want a film finish for this and you have a few options here. The main two are varnish and lacquer, the others being epoxy and a pour-on finish as intended for bar tops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Epoxy I think you'll want to discount first on the basis of cost, many times it'll work out to be the most expensive option by a considerable margin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think varnish is likely your best choice here since it's inexpensive, commonly available everywhere and can be applied equally easily to the legs as well as the top. Pour-on finishes are great but they can't be applied in that way to the legs, leading to a mismatch of look and surface finish on different elements of the stand which can be jarring*.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of which varnish to use oil-based polyurethane varnish would be best for this if it's to take the weight of a water tank. Polys are more than waterproof enough if you build up a sufficient coat thickness, otherwise they'd never be used on commercial tabletops. Spar varnish is waterproof but it's made to be flexible to resist any amount of water &lt;em&gt;and direct sunlight&lt;/em&gt;, which can lead to movements that would crack something less flexible. But that flexibility also translates into spar more easily taking impressions when subjected to pressure and how much does the tank weigh? In a thinnish coating you'd often not notice the difference but once built up into a proper coating, as you're going to want to use here to waterproof the top, a spar varnish will be noticeably softer than polyurethane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition there's an aesthetic issue, spar varnishes are significantly yellower than regular indoor varnishes because of the increased oil content (this is what gives them their flexibility). Ash being a fairly light wood will take on a ghastly yellow tone that many find distinctly unattractive..... on the other hand your mileage on this may vary so ignore if appropriate :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are numerous advantages going with varnish over lacquer, the first is the much simpler application. You can wipe varnish on and as touched on in a few previous Answers converting a varnish into wiping varnish is a simple matter of diluting it slightly and wiping it on with a rag (or brushing it on and partly wiping away the excess) and this application process makes getting a good result with varnish far easier, making it nearly foolproof. Additionally you won't need to buy any spray equipment and a solvent-rated respirator to protect you from the spray and fumes. And last but not least you don't need to figure out how to dilute the finish enough that it will spray well in your equipment, then learn all the other things that contribute to a good spray finish, and only then do one or more test boards since you &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; test out a new finishing regimen directly on the workpiece. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*On the other hand if this doesn't bother you then pour-on for the top and a waterbased poly for the rest might be worth considering. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-04-10T08:35:38.570" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5817" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5820" CreationDate="2017-04-10T19:25:33.570" Score="1" ViewCount="778" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to finish my woodworking project by rounding the edges of the surfaces with a bullnose routing bit. Like other furnishing in our home. I'm working with 22mm MDF and don't want the straight edges so looking for a radius of at least 1&quot; or even bigger to make it a bit more 'flat'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I can't seem to find anything on 1/4&quot; shank that is big enough. Is there a particular reason for this or just that it's something amateurs are not supposed to do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3563" LastActivityDate="2017-04-13T16:02:20.453" Title="Bullnose router bit 1/4&quot;shank is there a max radius (can't find 1&quot; radius on 1/4&quot; or 8mm shank)" Tags="|wood|router|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5803" CreationDate="2017-04-10T19:27:39.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Handheld (cordless) circular saws are the disposable razor blades of the sawing world.  Mostly, you see them used on construction sites for rough work (trimming 2x4s and similar tasks), so the cut quality doesn't need to be all that great.  A contractor is going to be more concerned with number of cuts/lifetime vs. cost, hence why you see a lot of carbide blades for construction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I consider circular saw blades to be disposable, even if they have carbide teeth.  It's often much more cost-effective to just buy a new blade than to have it sharpened.  You can go to any Home Depot, Lowe's, or Menards (in the US, anyway) and get a quality circular saw blade for under $25 that will do what you want it to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adjust the number of teeth per inch based on the task at hand (finer tooth count for finer work, generally).  The blade will say what task it's good for (i.e., rough framing, particleboard, laminate, etc.).  The manufacturer knows what their blades are good for, so it's not worth second-guessing them in most instances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @rob says, you're overthinking it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2017-04-10T19:27:39.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5817" CreationDate="2017-04-10T21:32:57.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Checking some of my catalogs I could not find round over bits much over 1/2&quot; radius for 1/4&quot; shanks.  I believe the reason is the because the torque generated is too great for such a small diameter shaft.  A 1/2&quot; shaft will have four times the cross sectional area in the shaft affording a great deal more strength.  I found round over radii up to  1 1/4&quot; for 1/2&quot; shafts.  If your router cannot accept a 1/2&quot; shaft colette you may want to consider borrowing or renting one for the task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2017-04-10T21:32:57.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5817" CreationDate="2017-04-10T21:44:34.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are multiple reasons you don't find 1/4&quot; shank bits with larger profiles. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Safety - the larger your profile, the greater the stress on the bit overall, including the shank. Nobody wants a 1&quot; bit shearing at its shank while cutting. In addition, as the bit's mass approaches the mass of the router (e.g., a small trim router), it will become more difficult to control. Requiring a 1/2&quot; shank incidentally also requires you to use a larger router with greater inertia. As Jacob Edmond and Ljk2000 pointed out in comments, variable speed is another important feature, since you need to slow down the motor for large bits in order to maintain a safer operating speed at the outer edge of the bit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Power - routers that only handle a 1/4&quot; shank generally have smaller motors. If you put a large cutter on a small router, you are more likely to stall the motor, especially if you take large bites out of your material.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cost - once you go beyond a certain size, it does not make economic sense to manufacture bits in both 1/4&quot; and 1/2&quot; shank varieties because larger bits are already more expensive and most likely sell in smaller quantities, and most routers capable of spinning larger bits can accept a 1/2&quot; shank.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat - I have a hard time believing this one is very significant once you get to the larger bits, but I'll include it for completeness anyway since it does come up in discussions of 1/4&quot; vs. 1/2&quot; shanks. To some degree, the shank helps pull away and dissipate heat from the cutters, and a smaller shank won't be as effective as a larger shank.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T16:02:20.453" LastActivityDate="2017-04-13T16:02:20.453" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5821" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5830" CreationDate="2017-04-10T23:58:20.530" Score="1" ViewCount="1335" Body="&lt;p&gt;The knots on my treated lumber deck have been bleeding thru the solid color latex stain.  After scraping off the mounds of sap, I coated the knots with two coats of amber shellac.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;My question is: Can I just apply the solid color stain latex stain over the top of the shellacked areas??  If not, what is the proper surface preparation?&#xA;Thanks&#xA;ET&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3564" LastActivityDate="2017-04-13T01:13:52.183" Title="Knots bleeding thru on the deck" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5822" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-11T00:13:11.677" Score="1" ViewCount="2627" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I am working on a project that requires me to join multiple thin pieces of wood (10mm in thickness) together to form 45 degree angles (examples below). We would like to avoid brackets as this is a visual prototype that needs to remain as visually pleasing as possible. Also, we would like to avoid joining techniques that require special tools or equipment. If you have any suggestions, please help. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/knvrw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/knvrw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4SMun.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4SMun.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3565" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-04-11T00:21:19.050" LastActivityDate="2018-09-06T12:18:37.880" Title="Joining Thin Angled Wood" Tags="|joinery|design|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5822" CreationDate="2017-04-11T07:34:11.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use a Splined Mitre Joint, such as shown in this question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1135/should-i-use-one-large-spline-or-multiple-smaller-ones-for-a-miter-joint&quot;&gt;Should I use one large spline or multiple smaller ones for a miter joint?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't require specialized tools over a handsaw or circular/table saw, and some chisels/sandpaper to clean it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3566" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.800" LastActivityDate="2017-04-11T07:34:11.477" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5824" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5832" CreationDate="2017-04-11T17:21:58.430" Score="2" ViewCount="1879" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have this unfortunate line from my stain in some of the vertical boards. It's front and center, so I want to fix it. My only guess is that this is from when I was sanding the joint where those boards meet the top horizontal bar. Must not have hit it well enough with 120 after in the direction of the grain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my best option to sand, maybe 120 grit, and re-stain just those vertical boards? I would imagine I need to wait until the stain is 100% dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OWlaA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OWlaA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Stain line&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First pass at fixing came out well. Need another coat to darken, but I'm fairly pleased. The very edges of the vertical boards have some extra darkness, but I actually kind of like it. Kind of looks worn old or something. Managed to sand a tiny bit of the horizontal boards despite my scrap wood protecting the edges. Sanded those with the grain just slightly and added a little stain there. Seems to have mostly covered it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/11Su7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/11Su7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;initial pass at fix&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ztdv4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ztdv4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;another look&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3535" LastEditorUserId="3535" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T03:29:03.223" LastActivityDate="2017-04-13T03:29:03.223" Title="Fixing a wood stain issue" Tags="|finishing|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5825" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5829" CreationDate="2017-04-11T19:33:09.870" Score="2" ViewCount="1846" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just got bed slats made by someone who repairs furniture. The slats are made of maple wood, have been planed, and are unfinished. However, he made a bunch of pencil marks on the slats and I want to remove them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tested denatured alcohol and acetone on a wood sample, but these solvents don't completely remove the pencil marks from the wood. But, when I tried Mr. Clean Magic Eraser, all of the pencil marks came off completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3MmsJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3MmsJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if it's okay to use Mr. Clean Magic Eraser to remove all the pencil marks on the bed slats since it uses water. And I always hear water shouldn't be used on wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what else would work. Is it a bad idea to use the Mr. Clean Magic Eraser?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3470" LastActivityDate="2017-04-12T19:19:33.883" Title="Should I use Mr. Clean Magic Eraser to remove pencil marks from unfinished wood?" Tags="|water-protection|hardwood|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5806" CreationDate="2017-04-11T20:41:24.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another method you could use would be to take the total surface area of everything you want to cover, then divide that by the surface area covered by a single OSB sheet. &#xA;This would give you the approximate amount of OSB sheets needed, and then you could round up to give you the exact amount of OSB sheets needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the total surface area you need covered = 12 m^2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A single sheet of OSB covers: 2.5x1.25 = 3.125 m^2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;12/3.125 = 3.84, so you would need approximately 4 sheets of OSB to cover the entire thing (taking into account near perfect cuts and placement).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously this is not extremely precise as it doesn't take into account wastage, mistakes etc. , but it is a very easy estimating tool to get a minimum figure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3568" LastActivityDate="2017-04-11T20:41:24.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5825" CreationDate="2017-04-11T23:44:01.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to add that as a comment but rep thing did not allow me (at least; for the moment).&#xA;I would try an regular erase first as mmathis said. Be aware that some erasers work better (depending on quality). If you do not get a satisfiying result you may try sandpapers. Try 400 grit first and go further with higher grits if necessary, until you get a satisfactory result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3533" LastEditorUserId="3533" LastEditDate="2017-04-12T00:16:33.427" LastActivityDate="2017-04-12T00:16:33.427" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5825" CreationDate="2017-04-12T02:11:23.060" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Acetone is my go to for removing pencil marks -  I'm not sure why you're having trouble with it. Perhaps the builder has left very heavy/deep marks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water is fine to use on wood - I wouldn't leave it soaking in a bath over night, but it's fine to wipe down with water. The magic erase markers are also probably fine. They're mildly abrasive so you'll be removing a little bit of wood, but not anything significant. If you were planning on applying a finish to the wood, I'd suggest testing first to make sure that any residue wasn't going to mess with the finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you could just leave the marks in place - they're almost a signature by the maker and if they're going to be covered by a mattress you may be better off leaving them there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="282" LastActivityDate="2017-04-12T02:11:23.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5825" CreationDate="2017-04-12T08:06:40.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I don't know if it's okay to use Mr. Clean Magic Eraser to remove all the pencil marks on the bed slats since it uses water. And I always hear water shouldn't be used on wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's perfectly OK to use water on wood, many processes require you to wet the wood surface down with plain water or a watery liquid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And anyway Magic Erasers don't need to be used with water :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I tested denatured alcohol and acetone on a wood sample, but these solvents don't completely remove the pencil marks from the wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the two go-to solvents for those who remove pencil marks that way. But unfortunately neither is 100% effective in all cases. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try wiping multiple times and really bearing down on the paper towel, most of the time for me with stubborn pencil marks that'll get rid of them or get you 90-95% of the way there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any remaining can usually be dealt with easily by gentle scraping, sanding or scuffing. And a Magic Eraser could work well for that last bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[there are] a bunch of pencil marks on the slats and I want to remove them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a rhetorical question but why? Nobody is ever going to see them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case you don't know there's a long tradition in furniture work of not bothering to do work on surfaces that aren't seen in service. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On old furniture (even really good quality stuff) not only can they have pencil, chalk or gauge lines on them they were commonly left unfinished and could even still be rough from the saw or have scrub-plane marks on them!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-04-12T08:06:40.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5821" CreationDate="2017-04-12T08:32:07.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can I just apply the solid color stain latex stain over the top of the shellacked areas?? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Absolutely, paints and most other coatings stick very well to shellac.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But shellac is not a waterproof coating so I don't know how well this will hold up over time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-04-12T08:32:07.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5803" CreationDate="2017-04-12T08:51:52.320" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the answers. As stated in my question, I already have a low quality blade for rough cuts. I also wanted to make finer, smoother cuts, but I was concerned that the machine would be underpowered for a blade with too many teeth or a thick kerf, hence the &quot;overthinking&quot;. Based on input from this and other forums, I got the following answers to my questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Kerf seems to be the most important factor for cordless circular saws when choosing a blade. One should aim for a thinner kerf to reduce load. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Non-stick coating does not significantly affect load, because most of the blade should not touch the cutting surface (the part with the teeth is slightly thicker than the blade disc itself). It increases the longevity of the blade tough.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I could not find detailed answers on teeth geometry, however most people recommend using ATB geometry for general woodwork, while HLCTG is more for composites, plastics and non-ferrous metals. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the above I chose option 4, (2.4/1.4 kerf, 36 teeth, ATB +15 degrees, not coated, $21). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3552" LastActivityDate="2017-04-12T08:51:52.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5824" CreationDate="2017-04-12T18:56:34.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple paths that may work. First, this is tough problem so there isn't perfect answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First thing to try, is simply reapplying the stain to area that doesn't match. The surface will still have marks from sanding across the grain but the difference may not catch the eye as much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't work, then:&#xA;Second, scrape (or sand) in the area where the mismatch is and reapply the stain. The problem here may be seam or border between the freshly stained area and the older stain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third (nuclear option): Once done with option two (scrape and stain the small area), remove the finish from the whole piece with finish remover/paint stripper and stain again. The process of removing all the finish will blur the line between the old and new areas and the fresh (third-pass) stain will look continuous and even.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other options: A slightly more opaque mixture of stain and pigment will hide the marks, but you must feel comfortable with mixing stain and colors. &#xA;An easy dodge on this count is to merely add in some raw umber or lamp black to darken the stain, but your mileage may vary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thin coat of a darker stain over area in question and a bit further down the vertical board can also be very effective. The danger is adding too much and having strange dark blobs. Perfect is the enemy of the good with this approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the variation is slight, adding pigment to wax (applied over the stain) will also work but obviously this is a less permanent solution.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of the issue at hand is from the marks that the sand paper left. So the more work you put into making the marks on the vertical boards uniform the easier matching the finish will be. Looks nice; good luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastActivityDate="2017-04-12T18:56:34.157" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5825" CreationDate="2017-04-12T19:19:33.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Magic Erasers are just &lt;a href=&quot;http://home.howstuffworks.com/magic-eraser1.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;melamine foam&lt;/a&gt;. They work by abrasion, there are no chemicals involved. The effect on the wood should be similar to rubbing it with very fine steel wool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="164" LastActivityDate="2017-04-12T19:19:33.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5822" CreationDate="2017-04-12T19:24:34.520" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A finger joint is relatively easy to make without requiring special tools, only a saw and chisels, and does not need too complicated woodworking. &#xA;One of the other answers has a great suggestion of using a splined mitre joint, which also could be done without power/special tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However you could also use a simple dowelling system. Using a drill and careful calculations you could drill holes into both pieces of wood, then use a correctly sized dowel with wood glue to strengthen the joints.&#xA;Easier would be to drill straight through both wood pieces, then cut off and sand down the exposed dowel end.(See diagram below)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P3D4k.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P3D4k.png&quot; alt=&quot;Wood joining&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3568" LastActivityDate="2017-04-12T19:24:34.520" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5821" CreationDate="2017-04-13T01:13:52.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Graphus, you should be fine from an adhesion point of view, but may have issues with shellac not being waterproof.  Further, I don't think that shellac will do much to stop sap seeping from the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest a CPES-type product instead of shellac next time.  It will both hold up to weather better and stabilize the wood better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2017-04-13T01:13:52.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5836" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-13T05:16:30.260" Score="2" ViewCount="814" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I am working on building a work bench, which is nearly finished, the last step is to install this veritas twin-screw vise as a end vise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The workbench is from Paul Seller's youtube videos and looks like (but is not) the one below.  I already installed a front vise, and wanted to install this twin screw as an end vise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZV9Z7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZV9Z7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;same style workbench&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a drill press so for installing the jaw I lugged some hard maple over to a friends.  The maximum screw distance center-to-center is 24&quot;, and my bench is 29.5&quot; wide so I decided to just drill out the screw holes at 24&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon attempting to check the holes when I got home I realized that I completely forgot to account for the apron thickness (1 1/4&quot;) + leg thickness (2 1/2&quot;) on each side, for a total of 7.5&quot; (for a leg-leg spacing of only 22&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now the damn twin screws run into my table legs by about 1&quot; on each side ...&#xA;The maple was pretty expensive for me ($80 total for both jaws).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to help fix the situation?  With the vise in the closed position the screws overlap the legs by about 4.5&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I have considered:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Somehow adding 4.5&quot; of extra wood onto the end of the table to make up this difference.  Not so sure about this, the top of the table is laminated 2x4's so it would be very strange and a poor glue joint.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drilling through some of the legs.  On one side this goes straight through a tenon.  On the other it goes straight through a horizontal bolt attaching the apron.  Plus to attach the bench top I screwed down into the legs so I would expect to run into those screws and tear up my bits.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I guess I could make the front or rear jaw thicker (similar to first bullet).  The jaws are already ~2&quot; thick each though.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of these seem like even halfway decent solutions.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: After thinking about it for a while I think gluing/screwing a couple of pieces onto the end of the table to add the 4.5&quot; inches seems like the most straightforward way.  Since the rest of the table is made of 2x4's I can just get an 8 foot 2x6 and cut three 29.5&quot; pieces to add to the end of my bench.  And if I cut a square for the mounting hardware I can maintain the same maximum vise expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit2: Maybe add another lamination on those two legs and then drill through the leg. That would completely enclose the screw hole with a 2x4 thickness on either side, and prevent me having to really hack too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3135" LastEditorUserId="3135" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T16:57:14.797" LastActivityDate="2017-04-13T16:57:14.797" Title="Help me fix mistake -- twin screw vise spacing runs screws into table legs" Tags="|workbench|vises|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5836" CreationDate="2017-04-13T08:00:40.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure there's an ideal solution here so you might have to bite the bullet and accept the best fix from a list where none are very satisfying).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Somehow adding 4.5&quot; of extra wood onto the end of the table to make up this difference. Not so sure about this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well FWIW tail vices do sometimes have very massive chops so yours wouldn't be the first with a particularly thick inside jaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I would be inclined to spread the thickness over the two jaws myself, but I'm not sure it actually matters (except visually).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the top of the table is laminated 2x4's so it would be very strange and a poor glue joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Breadboard ends are an example of how you affix something cross-grain at the end of a surface and the same principle can be used here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if your 2x4s in your top are glued face to face then it will have minimised movement across the top because this orients radial grain horizontally, and expansion and contraction of radial grain is roughly half that of tangential grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could of course glue up a short stack of 2x4 material and use that instead of a piece with the grain going the other way. Then movement will be the same so no issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Move the top?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Trying to think through the problem here in just the last couple of minutes, is there a possibility of repositioning the top on the legs? It's quite common for workbench tops to have uneven overhangs so the top sticking out more on one side than the other is not a concern on a functional front. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't move it the full 4.5&quot; even a shift of a couple of inches will help ease the main fix adding wood on one or both of the vice jaws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-04-13T08:00:40.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5838" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5840" CreationDate="2017-04-13T16:15:57.077" Score="8" ViewCount="2416" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently attempted a panel glue up consisting of 7 2&quot;x6&quot;x6' planks of reclaimed yellow pine. The boards were planed flat on one side and edge jointed. All went well it seemed during the glue up (i.e., it was flat and tight along the seems). I glued it up in sections a couple of boards at a time over a couple of days. All went pretty well, then when I came back after the last section (3 boards), there was a pretty good bow running down the middle of the top - a hill on top, a valley on the underside running right down the middle. It was flat when I set up the last glue and clamps. Could the bow be because of over tightening the pipe clamps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glue up strategy was pipe clamps alternating on top and bottom every foot. I also used biscuits. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else could have contributed to the bow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2087" LastActivityDate="2017-04-15T05:32:06.807" Title="Panel Flatness During Table Top Glue Up" Tags="|glue|table-making|tabletop|panel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5838" CreationDate="2017-04-13T18:24:09.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some things that could have happened:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The reclaimed pine could have warped due to sudden moisture changes (ie. moving from damp outside storage to the warm, dry indoors without letting the wood adapt first)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The boards may have needed to rest a few days to allow them to settle after planing&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The clamping down of the boards may have caused you not to notice slight bows in the final planks&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3568" LastActivityDate="2017-04-13T18:24:09.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5838" CreationDate="2017-04-14T08:24:44.237" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Glue up strategy was pipe clamps alternating on top and bottom every foot. I also used biscuits. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternating clamps top and bottom is a good way to help achieve a flat glue-up, but if you want to be absolutely sure you need to actually clamp the top flat somehow. You can do this with individual clamp pressure at each joint being glued (using just a C-clamp or with a purpose-made clamping accessory) or do it across the entire span using a caul.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some related info in these previous Answers:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/229/what-is-a-good-way-to-prevent-jointed-tabletops-from-bowing-when-tightening-fast/241#241&quot;&gt;What is a good way to prevent jointed tabletops from bowing when tightening fasteners or the glue sets?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4850/not-so-obvious-disadvantages-of-butt-joints/4857#4857&quot;&gt;Not-so-obvious disadvantages of butt joints&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI biscuits to nothing to help panels stay flat (and they don't add strength). They're merely an alignment aid in this sort of jointing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Could the bow be because of over tightening the pipe clamps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think so if you alternated clamps. Definitely a possible cause if you hadn't done this though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brief note on clamp pressure:&lt;/strong&gt; with a joint like this which relies completely on the glue bond for strength you actually do want to clamp &lt;em&gt;hard&lt;/em&gt;. The clamp pressure should be sufficient to squeeze out all the excess glue, which in practice means you want to clamp hard enough that you're forced to use scrap blocks to prevent denting of the edges by the clamps. If you've done your edge jointing well this sort of clamping pressure will result in glue joints so thin you can't see them — minimum standard you should aim for is not being able to seem them at arm's length, if you're more discerning they should be completely invisible no matter how closely you look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What else could have contributed to the bow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clamping the glue-up flat with further clamps may not have prevented this from occurring however because I suspect acclimation may have been at least partially the cause. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wood not ready&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Regardless of how long the pine sat in your workshop prior to you using it if you planed it down to final thickness in one go (especially if from one side more than another, or one side only) and then used it quickly that could have directly led to it warping unfortunately. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a much better strategy if time allows to plane down partially to thickness, putting the wood aside (stickered, and with heavy weights on top) to acclimate again, and then after a few days or longer planing off the last 1/8&quot; (3mm) or so to get down to final working thickness. This gives the exposed core of a plank, which is generally slightly damper than the wood at the surface, time to get down to equilibrium with the working environment in stages, rather than all in one go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Not quite square&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Another possible cause is an ever-so-slight discrepancy in the squareness of the edges, which after the glue has dried and the clamps are removed makes its presence known. Far less than half a degree is enough for a bow to be generated. So if you're not 100% certain that your edge jointing results in a perfect 90° edge it's a good idea to joint each pair of mating boards in alternate directions, that is, one face in to the fence and the next face out. This way any slight angle difference is cancelled out — see diagram &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NXRsU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for clarity. The drawing relates to hand-jointed edges but the same principle applies to edges jointed by machine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-04-14T08:24:44.237" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5841" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5844" CreationDate="2017-04-14T14:17:01.397" Score="5" ViewCount="19534" Body="&lt;p&gt;Planning a wooden bed frame. I am considering why bed slats I've seen seem to always just rest loosely on top of the frame rather than join to both sides. I know wood expands and contracts with heat/humidity but since the ends of the bed are also expanding and contracting in the same direction, why would these need to be separate? Perhaps it's for easy replacement as they more likely break. Maybe it's due to the weight of the mattress and occupants? If I made then of similar strength to the header and footer rails, I would think these problems would go away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3578" LastActivityDate="2021-09-25T02:48:08.203" Title="Why are bed slats not attached?" Tags="|furniture|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5841" CreationDate="2017-04-14T14:47:25.150" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably because they don't need to be attached.   The weight of the mattress holds them in place.  Screws that come loose or are not firmly set could tear the fabric of the mattress.  Why add an extra step in assembling and disassembling of a bed if it doesn't solve a problem and potentially introduces one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2017-04-14T14:47:25.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5841" CreationDate="2017-04-14T14:51:42.733" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bed slats often are fixed down at the ends. I've just checked the two cheap bed frames in my house and they are fixed down with a screw at each end. I made a rough bed this way a while ago and it was fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In cases I've seen where they are not fixed the slats have been pretty thin and with an upward curve so that when you lay your weight on them they flatten out. I'm guessing they do this either to give the bed extra spring or to save money on wood. As they flatten they effectively get longer so you cannot fix them rigidly at each end. You could fit the end of each slat into a mortise without glue but that would be a lot of work for little benefit. And as you say it would make replacement difficult if one broke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend making the slats for your bed reasonably thick (3/4&quot;) and screwing them down. Or you could rest the ends loose on the bed frame and use spacer blocks to keep them correctly positioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3343" LastActivityDate="2017-04-14T14:51:42.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5841" CreationDate="2017-04-14T22:17:18.970" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I know wood expands and contracts with heat/humidity but since the ends of the bed are also expanding and contracting in the same direction, why would these need to be separate? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The slats aren't moving in the same direction as the ends of the bed just because they're both going side to side, they're at 90° to each other in the other axis (the ends being upright, the slats being flat). So this means the ends will tend to expand up and down, the slats along the long dimension of the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just in general, when boards are not joined together movement tends to be very easy to deal with because it's only each individual board's movement that you need to account for, which can be small enough in many cases you can ignore it&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. It's when boards are joined together and these small movements become one larger movement that we have to pay attention. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to why bed slats are frequently not attached I think it's simply because they can be, they don't have to be fixed in order to work. And by not fixing them you save time and effort in drilling holes, driving screws or whatever. But where it is important for one reason or another&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; bed slats are fixed to bed frames. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; As in the apron of a table for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Bed slats are stronger when fixed at the sides and quite a bit stronger when fixed very firmly, e.g. when glued down or mounted into a housing groove or dado. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-04-14T22:17:18.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5845" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5846" CreationDate="2017-04-15T02:30:12.540" Score="3" ViewCount="842" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need your help. I am a rock climber and I use a hangboard (&lt;a href=&quot;https://m.imgur.com/a/mfmo0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;photo&lt;/a&gt;) to train finger strength. It's a wooden board mounted on a 3/4&quot; thick piece of plywood, which is screwed into some studs with some 3&quot; deck screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wcffK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wcffK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to build a few rock climbing holds out of wood (&lt;a href=&quot;https://spotsettingblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/klamy.jpg?w=595&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;like these&lt;/a&gt;) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7eDPq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7eDPq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and mount them around the edges of my hangboard. My plan is to shape the wood, then use wood glue and a couple of screws to hold the pieces onto the plywood. However, I'm worried about the wood breaking and falling on my butt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's why I'm seeking your help. I am wondering if douglas fir is a strong enough wood to use for this purpose. I found it much cheaper than oak at home depot, since they only had oak in decorative pieces for stairways. I'm also looking for any general advice for building some holds that won't break on me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for any help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3580" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-04-15T15:20:53.347" LastActivityDate="2017-04-16T12:06:18.107" Title="Question about the strength of Douglas fir" Tags="|strength|douglas-fir|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5845" CreationDate="2017-04-15T03:32:38.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not an expert in wood species, so maybe someone who knows more can weigh in more authoritatively, but I'd be inclined to use a species like Maple for this purpose. I think you'll find that's what the holds in your picture are made from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Douglas Fir is strong in the sense that it can bear high compressive axial (in line with the grain) loads. It probably does well with axial tension as well. This makes it good for a lot of purposes in construction, which is what the studs at Home Depot are generally used for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where it is less fabulous is in tension in the radial direction (sideways to the grain, roughly speaking). So it would have more of a tendency to fail by splitting than something like maple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that any screws used for affixing the holds should &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; be of the countersunk variety. You can see in the holds you've pictured that the screw holes are &lt;em&gt;counterbored&lt;/em&gt;, meaning the force of the screw head is directed parallel to the screw body (straight in, loosely speaking) rather than at 45 degrees in each direction, which would work to split the wood. So you would use pan head wood screws or perhaps preferably socket head or button-head socket cap screws to attach the holds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hFaEu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hFaEu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This latter variety would require a tee-nut or similar to be fitted behind the plywood but would provide superior strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vYlY7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vYlY7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2017-04-15T03:32:38.247" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5845" CreationDate="2017-04-16T07:35:30.193" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am wondering if douglas fir is a strong enough wood to use for this purpose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be, but it would depend on a few factors. These include how it's used (force relevant to the grain direction), whether the wood is bare or has a finish applied, and whether solid pieces or glued-up sections are utilised — one or two pieces pictured in the Question aren't made from the solid so they are glued assemblies. And when doing this the strength of the glue joints would be absolutely critical to strength because get it wrong and glue joints are weak, get it right and glue joints are as strong or stronger than the wood itself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the main thing at the end of the day is likely to be the selection of the stock to begin with. If you take two random pieces of fir from a pile one might have much closer ring spacing than another (where they might be as much as a finger width apart) and the first piece will be &lt;em&gt;significantly&lt;/em&gt; stronger than the second piece. This is true of all common softwoods because the light-coloured bands are much softer material than the dark bands. The dark rings are tough and strong, the light wood in between is soft (easily dented with a fingernail) and much much weaker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, whether fir might be strong enough I think is a question that can be put aside by looking at the wood chosen for the pieces pictured. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hardwoods&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If fir were a good choice (or even good enough) I think there's a good chance they'd have used it, but they haven't and instead they made them from what looks like maple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maple is in many ways an ideal choice for this sort of thing being a very strong close-grained hardwood, relatively easy to get and usually not too expensive. A quick Google search has shown me that oak is also used (red or white I can't tell).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I found it much cheaper than oak at home depot, since they only had oak in decorative pieces for stairways. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You really need to look for other sources of wood in order to be able to reliably buy good stuff. A specialised seller, what might be called a lumber yard where you are (UK: timber merchant), is a much better place to purchase wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not only do they have a better selection (by an order of magnitude!) the wood will likely be far better quality to begin with, handled better so that there will be fewer issues related to poor storage, and still be cheaper than from somewhere like HD. In the US individual lumber yards will have differing prices for various species of wood depending to some extend on what is available locally, but the standard hardwoods including oak and one or more types of maple will generally be relatively inexpensive all across the country.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm also looking for any general advice for building some holds that won't break on me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the SE format this should be asked separately, if necessary splitting your query up into individual Questions on each aspect of shaping and assembly, and then finally mounting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-04-16T07:35:30.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5845" CreationDate="2017-04-16T12:06:18.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It isn't so much about the wood as it is about the screw.  Almost any wood would be fine as long as you don't have a bad grain.  Now the screw is a different issue.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.screwdoctor.com/application/home/selection_guide/technical_data.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.screwdoctor.com/application/home/selection_guide/technical_data.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;These are the shear values for screws.  If you are attaching thru dry wall material the screw isn't in pure shear anymore because the dry wall can't resist the shear and the screw can bend.  I think you should attach some 3/4&quot; plywood to the wall and then screw you blocks to it the the values are accurate.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is the subject of chapter&quot;S&quot; in engineering books so one paragraph isn't all you need to know to be safe.  Hope this brief answer helps.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3583" LastActivityDate="2017-04-16T12:06:18.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5850" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-16T14:39:01.777" Score="6" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen woodworkers refer to &quot;green wood.&quot; I am new in wood working and trying to do something by myself. What does this term refer to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3584" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2017-04-16T19:31:16.893" LastActivityDate="2017-04-20T13:49:06.057" Title="What is the definition of green woods?" Tags="|green-wood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5850" CreationDate="2017-04-16T16:33:10.347" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Green wood&quot; is wood that has been recently cut/harvested and is not yet &quot;dry&quot;. Well aged wood will have a moisture content in equilibrium with its environment, assuming it's had enough time to equilibrate and the environment humidity is not fluctuating too wildly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the humidity in the environment change, the wood will absorb or release moisture to equilibrate. In doing so it will expand or contract. Depending on the type of wood, the grain orientation and the finish, that may result in uneven shape changes, the wood may warp to varing degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Green wood is an extreme of this in that it contains the water that was present in the cells from the processes of life. The loss of this water as the wood dries is generally far larger than the typical changes in &quot;seasoned wood&quot;. When you walk through your local lumber yard you will see many examples of warped, say, 2 x 4s. These typically were milled when the wood was green, the warpage came about as the wood dried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally wood would be cut and allowed to air dry before it is milled. A somewhat less optimal procedure is to force dry wood in giant &quot;ovens&quot;, kilns. When you see wood labeled KD, that wood has been kiln dried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, for nicer work, you should look for KD wood. Because it has lost that bulk of water used to sustain it when alive, you will be able to pick boards that have not significantly warped during this greatest period of change. The KD wood will cost more than green lumber due to the drying process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're doing very demanding work, such a making musical instruments, you will want to use well aged wood that has been allowed to air dry under appropriate conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2762" LastEditorUserId="2762" LastEditDate="2017-04-17T03:00:17.050" LastActivityDate="2017-04-17T03:00:17.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5854" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-16T23:48:39.327" Score="6" ViewCount="14963" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed how any impact I use has a little 'wobble' in the bit. Really noticeable in a long Philips or a spade bit. I own a Ryobi, but I have used Rigid, Bosch, and Dewalt. Every one with the same thing. Is this meant to be? Will it cause problems when driving screws into my projects?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2018-11-08T14:50:32.320" LastActivityDate="2019-06-26T10:44:35.083" Title="Why does an impact driver have some 'wobble'?" Tags="|screws|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5855" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-17T11:40:02.673" Score="2" ViewCount="527" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a big slab which is a cross section of a large tree trunk. The slab is about 10 inches thick and 3 feet in diameter, so it is large, heavy piece of wood. I cannot lift it. I moved to its current location by walking it. It took two men to load it into the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to smooth the top perfectly flat. The problem is that it is very rough cut and there are gashes by the chain saw. Trying to use a rasp to even it out would take forever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore I am thinking maybe to use a router. The problem is that I would need some kind of rail system to keep the router moving in a level plane over the surface. Also, what kind of bit would be used for doing something like this? Is there a better approach than using a router? If a router should be used, how can I move it X-Y and keep Z constant over a large surface?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2017-04-17T17:05:03.673" Title="Smooth tree trunk cross section" Tags="|router|router-bit|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2017-04-18T08:31:00.773" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5854" CreationDate="2017-04-17T12:41:51.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience impact drivers have a short head with a short hex-shaped recess to receive bits and drivers, where a drill has a chuck with a much firmer grip on bits. Hence the greater wobble factor using the impact driver. An impact driver is great for rough framing where I am not predrilling for screws, but I do not use it on better quality woodworking projects. For me it is like the difference between a broad heavy masonry chisel and fine woodworking one.  Different tools for different applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2017-04-17T12:41:51.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5855" CreationDate="2017-04-17T13:51:24.460" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would plane it flat.  It will require sharp planes because of the end grain and lot of work.  Make sure it is cured out before you start or it will warp on you later.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3583" LastActivityDate="2017-04-17T13:51:24.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5855" CreationDate="2017-04-17T17:05:03.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some very good Youtube videos that exist on how to do router planing.&#xA;Some links to help you on your way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o7teVTrKSkk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This one&lt;/a&gt; planes a tree slab similar to what you want to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kGAwhKsTsjM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This one&lt;/a&gt; has a similar method to the other video, but shows how this can be done on a larger scale. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A standard router bit should work fine, just make sure it is sharp and running at the right speed so there wont be any ugly tearout or burn marks. A wider router bit will not necessarily make for a quicker job, keep that in mind. Just make sure to get the slab oriented correctly so you will have as little planing as possible to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3568" LastActivityDate="2017-04-17T17:05:03.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5860" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-17T18:01:14.363" Score="3" ViewCount="20124" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building an L shaped office desk from pipe, structural fittings.  The top will be in two pieces cut from a 4x8 sheet of Baltic birch plywood.  I'd like the desk, including the top, to be disassemble-able and, if at all possible, for there not to be a leg at the inside corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for recommendations on joining the two top pieces given the above objectives (includes orientation of joint - see image)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some thoughts I've had (NB: effectively total noob to this sort of thing)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;simply glue it (permanent)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dowel, biscuits, spline (permanent, complex/hard for me)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;apron across the edge with the joint&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;piece across joint on underside screwed into the top pieces (prob. can't disassemble too many times)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dog bone fasteners&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OSst9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OSst9.png&quot; alt=&quot;diagram of top with joint orientation alternatives&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3590" LastActivityDate="2017-04-18T19:01:55.340" Title="Best way to join pieces of L shaped desktop" Tags="|joinery|furniture|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5860" CreationDate="2017-04-17T19:09:55.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several considerations you have to address for you concept.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Appearance-wise, consider the direction of the wood grain at the various joints.  You show a 38&amp;quot; x 24&amp;quot; butting to an 18&amp;quot; x 54&amp;quot;. If you are using a single piece of plywood you must change the grain direction at the joint, so if appearances are important decide of other joint directions work better.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material thickness and strength.  Your desktop material is thin and dowels or splines may too weak to support weight and/or movement, it depends on how it will be used.  A stronger joint option for this application might be to screw/glue attach a  second piece of plywood (4&amp;quot;x 24&amp;quot;+/-) to connect the two pieces from below.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The joint location will be the weakest point of the desktop (think of the connection as a hinge location. Interrupting the desktop with a joint in the middle (more or less) of the span is asking for failure unless that joint is adequately supported below.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connecting legs with flat plates to the underside of the desk will not be stable. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3987/how-to-attach-table-legs-to-wood-that-is-too-thin/3988#3988&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; for additional thoughts on this problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In order to adequately support your desktop you should consider aprons at least 3-4&amp;quot; deep. The inside corner of the desk where you wish to avoid a leg must carry across the entire width of the desk (56&amp;quot;) and connect to an apron on the 54&amp;quot; side that is supported by the corner legs.  Consider the height of the top, seat and clearance for the persons body when determining the length of your legs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(BTW, it is always helpful to draw your project to scale.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2017-04-17T19:09:55.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5862" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-17T20:48:26.603" Score="2" ViewCount="373" Body="&lt;p&gt;My contractor installed new ledges on my porch.  He primed them twice with a sealer/primer and then painted two coats of high gloss trim paint.  Now, I have spots and cracks where sap is seeping through and making a mess of the whole area.  If I sand it to rough it up, then use shelak can I then paint the high gloss paint over that and the sap won't come through again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3593" LastActivityDate="2017-04-17T20:48:26.603" Title="stopping sap from coming through prime/sealed and painted wood" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2017-04-18T08:29:54.887" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5854" CreationDate="2017-04-17T22:50:42.317" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to address the &quot;what advantage would there be over a regular drill&quot; part of the question first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Impact drivers are much better at driving fasteners, drills are much better at drilling.  (Hence the different names...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're drilling you want a thin, continuous cut.  This means that you normally don't need a ton of torque, but you want it continuously.  Drills are built to do this because they just turn at full torque the whole time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a fastener you don't really care if you stop and start, but you want as much torque as possible.  So an impact driver applies more torque, but it does it intermittently (hence the &quot;clicking&quot; when you use it.)  This also has the added benefit of not causing &quot;reaction&quot; torque, when a drill binds up and tries to twist your arm.  So you can apply a lot more torque with an impact than you ever could with a drill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, since an impact is intended to be used with fasteners it doesn't really matter if it wobbles.  You're normally using it on something that isn't prone to walking around like a twist drill bit does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2017-04-18T15:52:57.317" LastActivityDate="2017-04-18T15:52:57.317" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5860" CreationDate="2017-04-18T11:34:31.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given your level of experience, I would choose the &quot;piece across the joint&quot; option. It's been used in the countertop industry for eons.  Since you are using Baltic Birch for the top (excellent choice in terms of stability and relative strength) you can glue and clamp everything together.  Or not, if you plan on taking it apart - you can always change the location of the screw holes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other issues, such as what sort of load this top will carry, require more info.  But you got a good start! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3473" LastActivityDate="2017-04-18T11:34:31.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5865" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-18T17:39:19.630" Score="4" ViewCount="1799" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am putting two halves of a round tabletop together by way of a Full Blind Tapered Sliding Dovetail... I just need to know what is going to make the strongest or most durable joint between a 7 degree and a 20 degree bit. I want it to be able to be taken apart so there won't be any glue used. I was looking at cutting a 1&quot; thick piece of wood (or 4/4) with a 1/2&quot; dovetail bit. The weakest/narrowest point on each side would be 1/4&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3595" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2017-04-18T19:08:41.817" LastActivityDate="2017-04-25T12:07:13.147" Title="Strongest sliding dovetail angle" Tags="|wood|router-bit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5860" CreationDate="2017-04-18T19:01:55.340" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have redrawn your desk top and would suggest the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ggvoa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ggvoa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Redrawn table top&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't mess around with a mitered corner (At best you're just wasting wood with the triangular cut-offs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make the top of two rectangles joined with the lap joint(easy) or the dog bones (fun to work out).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assuming you plan on using flanges to join the legs to the top, overlap one flange so that it attaches to both pieces of the top.  Most of the load will be carried by the leg and little load needs to transferred from one piece of the top to the next. The leg labeled as optional is necessary only if you are anticipating heavy loads (e.g. lots of books)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen tables with pipe legs like you plan to use.  They have seemed remarkably stable and will hold up quite nicely if not abused - move by lifting, not dragging; it's not a chair so don't sit or dance on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability to knock down and re-build a piece of furniture is over-rated for the needs of most people.  While young, still getting an education, moving every year or two years, it is handy, but in the end, modular furniture is re-assembled at most a handful of times.  So, listen to Benchwerks, if the screw holes become too loose, relocate them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After thought:  My experience with Baltic birch has been that it comes in square sheets 60&quot; on a side.  You can make your top without piecing together parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2017-04-18T19:01:55.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5850" CreationDate="2017-04-18T21:53:18.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The above definition, sounds very good to me.  &quot;Green wood&quot; is wood that has been recently cut/harvested and is not yet &quot;dry&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;bpedit also suggests correctly that wood is best allowed to dry to an appropriate level for optimal results from milling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I would add this proviso. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are interested in some types of hand tool woodworking such as spoon carving or whittling objects it is much easier to cut the wood while it is green and dry it later.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other types of woodworking like bowl turning or perhaps using a draw-knife or spoke-shave to cut spindles for a Windsor chair are often cut to shape while green and finished later after the wood is stabilized in a dryer state. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3439" LastEditorUserId="3439" LastEditDate="2017-04-20T13:49:06.057" LastActivityDate="2017-04-20T13:49:06.057" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5869" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-19T02:03:09.793" Score="3" ViewCount="1910" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that several vendors sell plunge/track saws that have riving knives and that 'non-track/plunge' circular saws with riving knives seem to be readily available in Europe, but in all my searches I've yet to find any (with the exception of 'track' type plunge saws) that are available in the US - does anyone know of any that might be sold in the US? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(P.S. - Moderators: I realize this is not a 'general' question, however the nature of the beast requires I ask it in this fashion as it does require some measure of specificity in order to be answered, I appreciate any indulgence you may afford this post).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks, Tony&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3597" LastActivityDate="2017-06-19T18:55:50.193" Title="US handheld circular saws with riving knives?" Tags="|power-tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5870" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5879" CreationDate="2017-04-19T14:53:17.100" Score="5" ViewCount="315" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was trying to find some information online about using a vise along with dog holes instead of clamps for glue up.  I can't find a single reference to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this commonly done?  Can the vise pressure be supplemented with clamps?  Is there any reference showing glue up using face or end vises?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3135" LastActivityDate="2017-04-20T09:58:36.390" Title="Gluing up using bench vise" Tags="|glue|clamps|vises|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5871" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5872" CreationDate="2017-04-19T16:19:52.437" Score="19" ViewCount="27113" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that wood expands due to seasonal changes in humidity and temperature, but that's the extent of my knowledge about it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In which direction do wood boards expand? In the same direction as the grain? Perpendicular to the grain direction? Both? Does it matter if it's a quarter sawn board or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3596" LastEditorUserId="3596" LastEditDate="2017-04-20T14:52:08.670" LastActivityDate="2022-07-31T15:21:12.417" Title="which direction does wood expand?" Tags="|wood|wood-movement|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5871" CreationDate="2017-04-19T16:44:56.413" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wood is made of fibers.  Think of wood as a bunch of soda straws or flexible rubber tubes bundled together.  When you add water, the fibers expand to hold the extra water.  When it dries, they contract.  So you will see expansion across the width of the grain, and very little along its length.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two types of wood, heartwood and sap wood.  Sap wood is what actively carries the water, and heart wood which is 'dead' wood does not.  So the fibers in the sapwood expand much more readily than the fibers in the heartwood.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All boards will expand as moisture increases, the difference between plainsawn and quartersawn wood is the direction of the expansion.  Plainsawn wood will tend to cup, while quartersawn wood will just get wider.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an image of how a log can be cut up to make boards:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d6YPL.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d6YPL.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The end grain shows the story.  Here is the end grain of a plainsawn board.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wxril.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wxril.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at the plainsawn, the outer sapwood will expand faster than the heartwood, causing the board to cup.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By contrast, a quartersawn board has this endgrain.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9MJDu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9MJDu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As these fibers expand, the board simply gets wider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some links for additional reading&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://northernwoodlands.org/articles/article/what_is_the_difference_between_sapwood_and_heartwood&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;What Is the Difference Between Sapwood and Heartwood?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://wunderwoods.wordpress.com/2011/11/07/have-you-heard-about-shrinkage/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Have You Heard About Shrinkage?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2017-04-19T16:44:56.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5873" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5874" CreationDate="2017-04-19T17:24:54.810" Score="17" ViewCount="47115" Body="&lt;p&gt;The piece I am currently working on does not need to be perfect in any way, I am actually going for a slightly rough look (due to many mistakes along the way) but I would like to hide some of the larger imperfections. I got lazy with some of my cuts and I now have a few odd gaps. I remember hearing a while ago that sawdust and wood glue can be used as a wood filler to fill in gaps and imperfections. I would buy proper wood filler but I would rather not spend the money and I am also curious if this technique is realistic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a method that can work and if so, how?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also how might this effect finish the piece, if I was to stain the wood would the filler stand out and be very obvious?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3598" LastActivityDate="2022-05-16T16:38:10.600" Title="Making wood filler from sawdust" Tags="|finishing|glue|wood-repair|sawdust|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5873" CreationDate="2017-04-19T17:32:15.123" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, that is a method still in use. You can use it to fill gaps. But, the unfortunate thing about this method is... You create a place on wood that is different in absorbing the oil/stain that you apply.&#xA;But it depends on your stain colour and wood's colour also. If they are both darkish, it will not be a problem. But if your wood is lightish and the stain is darkish... voila, you will get a whitish spot on wood, in places filled with the wood/glue. Because of its altered absorbance of the stain due to glue.&#xA;Sorry for my poor english, but I hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3533" LastEditorUserId="3533" LastEditDate="2017-04-19T18:16:31.243" LastActivityDate="2017-04-19T18:16:31.243" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4254" CreationDate="2017-04-19T19:19:03.457" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Burn it.  Will destroy most of the volatile organics, just don't breathe.  Fire will break down the chemical structure into small non-toxic organic chains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3599" LastActivityDate="2017-04-19T19:19:03.457" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5871" CreationDate="2017-04-20T04:59:03.887" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wood expands far less in the longitudinal direction than across the grain. To be clear, this means along the direction of the xylem conduits in the wood which are parallel to the trunk. So, typically the length of a board &amp;quot;moves&amp;quot; less than 1/100 as much as the width of the board on a per-inch basis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also variation in movement across the width depending on whether the board is quarter sawn or slab sawn. A quarter sawn board will, on average, shrink or expand only 1/2 as much as a slab sawn board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link that will help you visualize:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://workshopcompanion.com/KnowHow/Design/Nature_of_Wood/2_Wood_Movement/2_Wood_Movement.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://workshopcompanion.com/KnowHow/Design/Nature_of_Wood/2_Wood_Movement/2_Wood_Movement.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2762" LastEditorUserId="1417" LastEditDate="2022-07-31T15:21:12.417" LastActivityDate="2022-07-31T15:21:12.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5871" CreationDate="2017-04-20T08:38:42.990" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In which direction do wood boards expand? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short answer: across the grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood does move along its length but the amount is negligible and can almost always be ignored. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has been posted before but it's worth reposting as it shows the differences so clearly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ijnQK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Grain direction and movement&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see radial movement is only half that of tangential (approximately, much greater detail given on this in one of the links below) which is one reason why quarter-sawn wood is more stable than most flat-sawn wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Not just expansion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Note that wood expands &lt;em&gt;and contracts&lt;/em&gt;, it's not all expansion. There is a natural expansion/contraction cycle that happens to wood through the year as humidity rises and falls. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood naturally tries to get its moisture content or MC into equilibrium with the surroundings and it takes up moisture from humid air and expands, loses moisture to dry air and contracts. When you bring wood into the workshop or home and leave it for a while before use as often recommended what you're waiting for is for the wood to reach an equilibrium with the local conditions, a process called acclimation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why it's important&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So as you can see the more stable the environment the less movement you can expect in any piece of wood, which is why in a house with climate control you can get away with certain things that you wouldn't in another house elsewhere with no aircon and minimal heating. &lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; this is so important in the Internet age because many beginner projects that are posted online built from 2x material are very poorly constructed (for example the majority of things on Ana White), and one of the only reasons some makers are getting away with it is because of the stability of the conditions in their homes. Others aren't getting away with it because there are wider swings in temp and humidity inside theirs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The take-home message here for furniture plans is that &lt;em&gt;everything&lt;/em&gt; should make appropriate allowances for movement, regardless of whether it is expected or not. Someone building the project will require it even if the person drawing up the plan does not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why pay more for quarter-sawn/radial-sawn wood?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It is radial grain that is across the width of a quarter-sawn board (ditto radial-sawn&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;) and the much smaller expected movement of such a board is one reason it is so favoured by furniture makers. In addition to the substantially smaller expected movement QS wood can also feature distinctive grain features, e.g. the striking medullary rays (AKA &quot;ray figure&quot;) in all species of oak. Beech has a much smaller-scale version of the same thing, not so easily seen at a distance but very attractive up close. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further reading from previous Q&amp;amp;As:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3441/what-is-the-maximum-width-for-a-full-cross-grain-glue-up/3533#3533&quot;&gt;What is the maximum width for a full cross grain glue up?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/908/what-general-considerations-do-i-need-to-take-into-account-for-wood-movement/910#910&quot;&gt;What general considerations do I need to take into account for wood movement?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5255/thick-tabletop-movement/5257#5257&quot;&gt;Thick tabletop movement&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Radially-sawn wood is also sometimes referred to rift-sawn although it doesn't mean quite the same thing. Strictly speaking radial sawing refers exclusively to how the log was converted into boards, literally in a radial fashion. While rift-sawn can refer to grain orientation in a board only, which is also true of quarter-sawn wood, &lt;em&gt;regardless of the method used to saw the boards from the log&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2017-06-11T06:29:15.770" LastActivityDate="2017-06-11T06:29:15.770" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5873" CreationDate="2017-04-20T09:37:09.943" Score="17" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I remember hearing a while ago that sawdust and wood glue can be used as a wood filler to fill in gaps and imperfections. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes you can do this, but note that the term &quot;sawdust&quot; might be slightly misleading here. Commonly when this sort of thing is done at home it uses sanding dust, not actual dust from sawing which would tend to have a range of particle sizes including some much coarser flakes and generally you want the filler dust to be as fine as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I would buy proper wood filler but I would rather not spend the money and I am also curious if this technique is realistic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually in a lot of ways I think you're better off not buying wood filler. Most commercial wood fillers are slightly disappointing in some way and if you have a ready supply of wood dust already it is a good way to make use of at least some of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also how might this effect finish the piece, if I was to stain the wood would the filler stand out and be very obvious?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you stain the piece yes it will tend to stand out, usually very obviously. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most fills made from wood dust and adhesive (including epoxy, white and yellow glues and superglue) are not absorbent and will therefore stand out very noticeably if you then stain, since that relies on absorbency. So an alternative approach used historically was to stain first and then use a filler that matched the stained colour (or often one shade darker), although unfortunately this approach isn't generally practical with glue + wood dust fills because of the need to scrape or sand the filler flush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you're not staining&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You will at some point read online that if you make a filler from the dust of the same species as the wood you're working on that &quot;It's a good colour match.&quot; and even sometimes that &quot;It's a dead-on match.&quot; but I can tell you that in most cases those are lies or the person writing is being too generous!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In almost all cases the fill will be &lt;em&gt;significantly&lt;/em&gt; darker than the surrounding wood. The reason for this is that the dust has been wetted by the glue so it's behaving quite like end grain, which when wet shows up darker than face grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stainable fillers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is one of the reasons to not buy commercial wood fillers by the way, because even the &quot;stainable&quot; ones tend not to take stain that well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few formulas posted online for DIY fillers that stain far better than any of the commercial versions according to their users. Most include some plaster or spackle in the mix to increase absorbency. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But on a smaller scale if you use sanding dust from the same species and hide glue as the binding agent you can get a very reasonable colour match that isn't obvious from arm's length and occasionally even closer. Such a filler can even have good staining properties, but the type of stain you use will matter so no guarantees here and you'll need to experiment for yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further related info:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3807/large-hole-filler-products-what-is-available&quot;&gt;Large hole filler products, what is available&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-04-20T09:37:09.943" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5870" CreationDate="2017-04-20T09:58:36.390" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not generally done, although I'm sure I have seen the vice being used for glueing up certain jobs, mostly between the jaws, I can't remember the sources. One passing reference to this the poster said he'd never do it again though, since the glue dripped onto the vice screw and guide rods and made a mess that was tough to clean up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Too much strain on the vice&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The main reason not to rely on this is because a vice isn't capable of exerting the same pressure as clamps can, at least not without putting excessive strain on the mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get away with a light hold using hide glue (or no clamping pressure at all in the case of a rubbed joint) so if you used hide glue much then this could be a practical way to do some smaller glue-ups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But since most of us are using PVA glues primarily these days (both white and yellow types) which rely on very high pressures to ensure the strongest bond you'd really need to crank the vice down tight and you'd risk wearing it out or breaking it — they ain't made like they used to be!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ties up the vice&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Another reason that occurred to me is simply that while the thing is drying the vice is tied up and you can't use it, and that area of the workbench, to work on something else. Even in a home shop this could prove to be a bottleneck to production. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-04-20T09:58:36.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5869" CreationDate="2017-04-20T16:20:08.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Circular saws are typically used for crosscutting framing lumber and breaking down sheet goods.  They aren't normally used for ripping in a construction setting, as this would be done on a jobsite tablesaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the only situation where a riving knife is crucial is ripping, they simply aren't built with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The track that comes with a tracksaw makes putting a straight edge on rough lumber very easy, which is a ripping operation likely to cause kickback, so they do come with riving knives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2017-04-20T17:57:07.863" LastActivityDate="2017-04-20T17:57:07.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5881" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5883" CreationDate="2017-04-20T16:48:40.113" Score="4" ViewCount="28794" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the key differences between a water-based polyurethane and a oil-based polyurethane? How would one be better than the other? What lasts longer on wood, penetrates, Etc. When should there be one used over another (for a given project)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2019-01-04T23:54:21.357" Title="Water-based polyurethane Vs. Oil-based polyurethane" Tags="|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5881" CreationDate="2017-04-20T22:23:04.710" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Water-based: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clear, non-yellowing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low(er) odor &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleanup with water and soap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Applied with synthetic or natural brushes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil-based:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Amber/yellowing finish (darkens over time)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Generally harder wearing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stinky&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Requires solvents to clean brushes; natural bristles recommended&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Longer recoat times&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can easily be thinned with mineral spirits to make your own wipe on finish&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use oil-based if you want maximum durability and water resistance.  Use water-based if you care about odor and want easy cleanup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reference: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.familyhandyman.com/floor/water-based-vs-oil-based-polyurethane-floor-finish/view-all&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.familyhandyman.com/floor/water-based-vs-oil-based-polyurethane-floor-finish/view-all&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3606" LastActivityDate="2017-04-20T22:23:04.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5881" CreationDate="2017-04-21T08:15:33.043" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately this is an &lt;em&gt;it depends&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some broad generalisations that can be made but waterbased polys have been steadily improved over the years (the early ones were pretty bad according to some accounts!) and now some have qualities that rival the oil-based counterparts. This, along with their inherent advantages, makes them well worth trying out when some years ago I would have recommended staying well away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are they?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;First off before going any further it's important to describe what each of these actually is. Neither of these products is a polyurethane product in the way that you might be thinking, i.e. made from polyurethane only. Instead both are other coatings with &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; polyurethane added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Waterbased polys are usually acrylic or co-polymer suspension coatings (not true varnishes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil-based polys are modified alkyd varnishes, or uralkyds as they're described in the industry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowing this goes some way to explaining why oil-based are generally superior and why some polys are much tougher than others, simply put they add very little to some versions and more to others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more they add the better the scratch-resistance, waterproofing and resistance to heat. So in no way can you think of &quot;waterbased poly&quot; and &quot;oil-based polyurethane&quot; as each being one uniform thing because they can vary &lt;em&gt;enormously&lt;/em&gt; from brand to brand. But some broad generalisation can be made all the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are they like?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Oil-based first since this came first:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Naturally coloured, from a light yellow to something more amber.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Because the oil base discolours over time these varnishes discolour, going slightly more yellow/ochre after a number of years (how much and how fast depends on total light exposure and the thickness of the application so normally there's no reason to panic that &quot;Your varnish is going to turn yellow!&quot;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Noticeable chemical or solvent smell (depending on formulation). Not only is the smell strong to very strong it's also one that people often find offensive or nauseating.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Odour dissipates slowly and is noted for lingering in enclosed spaces. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slow drying, relatively.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slow to fully cure, again relatively.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleanup with mineral spirits (UK: white spirit). You can also use turpentine if you wish, but it doesn't make any difference to the varnish itself just to the user.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dilution with spirits. Oil-based varnishes can be thinned as much as wanted to provide anything from improved brushability (1:10) to a watery penetrating liquid (10:1) and anything in between. What's now called wiping varnish is a dilution of regular varnish of approximately 1:3 although you can go thinner or thicker as you prefer or as needed (some varnishes are thinner than others).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Waterbased polys:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Won't yellow.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower odour (also a very different type of odour that people tend not to find offensive).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Odour dissipates quickly upon drying.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fast drying to very fast drying.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fast curing, relatively. This process still takes &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; longer than the drying time, but is only a couple of days or so versus a week to 10 days.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water cleanup (although you want to use soap and water ideally, and warm water where available).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prone to bubbles drying in the finish. The product is inherently prone to bubble formation and the fast drying can easily lock tiny bubbles in place, where with oil-based varnishes the slower drying gives more time for bubbles to rise to the surface and burst.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not as easy to apply to a really good standard as the oil-based type, in part because of the fast drying and being prone to bubbles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can't be diluted like oil-based can. A small amount of added water can be added if and when needed but the manufacturers and industry pros warn that over-thinning can introduce problems with film formation so it's generally not advised to thin this type of product to any great degree if you want it to provide good protection, and adding water can greatly increase the tendency for bubbles to form which is a huge headache.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can't be wiped on like oil-based poly. You can literally wipe it on, use a cloth to wipe the stuff on the surface, but it doesn't work at all the same way and the fast drying time means you can't wipe away the excess reliably even a short time after application.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll notice that I don't list above that they're colourless or &quot;water clear&quot; because that's no longer universal. Because the colour traditional varnishes impart is considered desirable to some users some tinted waterbased polys are now available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Notes on drying&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;All the comments above about drying and curing times are based on average conditions. Where it's warm and dry everything dries and cures faster and people who live in such a climate tend to benefit greatly from this, although it can lead to frustrations working with fast-drying waterbased products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where it's cool and the humidity is high drying times can be greatly slowed and in the worst cases high humidity can prevent proper curing because the finish won't dry fully, resulting in a finish that's seemingly permanently sticky. Note that even if it's warm high humidity can retard proper drying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best of both types are excellent coatings, providing good to very good water-resistance and good to excellent scratch-resistance, but the worst of the waterbased type are still weak and not really worth using if you're hoping for good performance. So it's important to shop around and seek a product with good independent test results (can't go by what the maker says about the product!) and an abundance of good user feedback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some further reading from previous Q&amp;amp;As:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/884/what-is-the-difference-between-curing-and-drying/897?s=1|1.9086#897&quot;&gt;What is the difference between &amp;quot;curing&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;drying&amp;quot;?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3601/what-is-the-difference-between-wiping-polyurethane-and-wiping-varnish&quot;&gt;What is the difference between wiping polyurethane and wiping varnish?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4123/can-i-switch-from-my-oil-base-finish-that-still-has-not-dried-to-a-water-based/4125?s=2|3.7986#4125&quot;&gt;Can I switch from my oil base finish, that still has not dried, to a water based poly?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2068/can-i-apply-water-based-polyurethane-over-an-oil-based-stain/2071?s=4|2.0894#2071&quot;&gt;Can I apply water-based polyurethane over an oil based stain?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T08:15:33.043" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1866" CreationDate="2017-04-21T14:35:29.673" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was a product out years ago called clean wood and it was made specifically for removing pencil marks from wood prior to staining, it was a liquid that you would pour on the corner of a rag and just wipe a little on the marks and in seconds they would be gone for good, without raising the grain. I used to use this product a lot years ago for trim work especially when the wood was left natural and just a sealer was going to be applied, worked great for me. I don't know if it is still available as I am looking for some right now!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3609" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T14:35:29.673" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5885" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5889" CreationDate="2017-04-21T15:49:34.523" Score="2" ViewCount="251" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to make a desk with adjustable height. I want the legs to be two pieces: a lower, thicker leg from which a thinner upper leg can telescope. This means that the lower legs will essentially be a very tall open-top boxes which must support a fair amount of weight on their rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know how to use a miter spline or a locked rabbet joint but I worry that those won't be able to support lots of longitudinal force. Do I need to worry about this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3610" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2018-10-12T05:24:21.860" LastActivityDate="2018-10-12T05:24:21.860" Title="Is standard box joinery sturdy enough for a hollow table leg?" Tags="|table-making|strength|box-joint|boxes|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5886" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5888" CreationDate="2017-04-21T17:23:55.490" Score="2" ViewCount="422" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, I'll show you a pic of the damage, then I'll give you a short background to how this happened, then last I'll ask for advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The damage:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6AB2s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6AB2s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see there are tiny specs in the &lt;strong&gt;Tru-Oil&lt;/strong&gt; finish (one single application) on my &lt;strong&gt;black walnut&lt;/strong&gt; board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background info:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what happened. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm making a shelf with these black walnut boards and I did a very good job with the sanding, started with 60 grit (very rough sawn from my friend's saw mill) then 80, 120, and finally 220. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, I had to abandon the project for about a week and they sat in my garage (where I also worked on getting a riding lawnmower started). Then sanded them with &lt;em&gt;320&lt;/em&gt; grit before wiping on a single layer of Tru-Oil. They looked really really great the next day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My next step was to apply spar-urethane over them to protect from UV and water, but unfortunitally I became pre-occupied with something else and they sat on the garage for some more time, during which it rained extremely hard and some leaks in my roof formed and dripped water onto the floor &lt;em&gt;next&lt;/em&gt; to where the boards where laying. Then yesterday I discovered the damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So.. it was either caused by water splashing onto the boards and ruining the Tru-Oil (they say it's water resistant but not water proof). Or something like WD40 got onto the boards in-between finish sanding and applying the Tru-Oil and that caused it to react this way. Or... ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The question:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think this is water damage? The effect of WD40 or similar on the wood before the finish was applied? Something else? I think it's water damage but I just want to cover all bases, and I'm surprised that Tru-Oil would do this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And what should I do? Sand it smooth and start over, or apply a new coat of oil on top? I know that there's &lt;a href=&quot;http://dannix.net/lib/abode/walnut&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a noticeable difference in darkness and sheen from 1 coat to 2 coats of Tru-oil&lt;/a&gt;. And if I sand it off and start over, what grit should I start with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3596" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T19:17:14.163" Title="unknown damage to Tru-Oil finish, please advise" Tags="|finishing|water-protection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5873" CreationDate="2017-04-21T18:40:46.900" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a cabinet scraper on a piece of scrap to create the dust, mix with glue until it has a putty like consistency, and the press it into the gap with a plastic spatula (I use the end of my glue brush). I've had very good luck with this not being super noticeable on cherry boards finished with natural Danish Oil. But how it will effect you project specifically depends on what kind of wood and finish you are using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3612" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T18:40:46.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5886" CreationDate="2017-04-21T19:17:14.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the detailed background info, don't get that enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do you think this is water damage? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It certainly looks like it but it's hard to tell. You can get much the same look from a dot of WD-40 so it's difficult to be sure. No need to panic either way as one of Tru-Oil's benefits is it's easily retouched/topped up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First thing I would do is give it a wipe with mineral spirits and then let it dry. That alone may do quite a lot to reduce the visibility. Then rub in a very light coat of Tru-Oil, thinned if necessary with some MS. I'd be very surprised if that doesn't resolve the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I think it's water damage but I just want to cover all bases, and I'm surprised that Tru-Oil would do this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tru-Oil just isn't that tough or resistant a finish, but to be fair to it in this case it's nowhere near being cured. Curing might take a fortnight or longer and it's only after a full cure that you can expect the full measure of protection from any finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;And if I sand it off and start over, what grit should I start with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't recommend sanding this. I'm not a fan of sanding off finish anyway, as you'll see from previous Answers here if you have a poke around, but here because the Tru-Oil won't be hardened (it'll never get that hard BTW) it could be a bear to sand off due to clogging of the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do find you have to remove it I'd use an organic solvent, starting with acetone if mineral spirits has no effect. Once you find the solvent that's strong enough after a surprisingly small amount of effort and not too much rubbing you'll get to something close to bare wood, without any risk of damaging the piece from sanding. Then wait for the wood to dry and you're ready to begin again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Completely unrelated to your question here I highly recommend getting friendly with hand planes and scrapers. All that talk of sanding from 60 grit made me itchy :-) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not just about personal preference, a hand-plane dude might generate about 1/2 teaspoon of dust at most taking a 72&quot;x8&quot; board down from rough-sawn to ready for finish, and possibly faster than via sanding too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T19:17:14.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5885" CreationDate="2017-04-21T19:26:27.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can do a splined mitre joint long enough and accurate enough for this then I think you're good to go. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lock-rabbet joint might be stronger under normal circumstances but here you'd be doing it along the long grain, not across it as this joint is used normally. It's not a suitable joint along the grain of solid wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T19:26:27.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5890" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-23T03:43:31.893" Score="1" ViewCount="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;(If the question is not 'woodworky' enough, apologies.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have an old couch.  Springs are supported on webbing.  I've re-webbed a couple of times over the years (as best I could).  Now, it needs it again.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, why webbing?  ISTM, I could just as well screw plywood under there, and save a lot of work.  The plywood would go under the old webbing, so the springs would remain tied in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Just to clarify the vocabulary, here it is after re-webbing: )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lTeq5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lTeq5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="484" LastEditorUserId="484" LastEditDate="2017-04-23T10:18:15.667" LastActivityDate="2017-04-23T10:18:15.667" Title="furniture spring support" Tags="|furniture|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5891" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-23T21:02:57.430" Score="10" ViewCount="56406" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a nice new wooden table, and, being completely clueless about wood, scrubbed it with the rougher side of a dish sponge because it had some weird rough spots on the surface.  Now it's slightly scratched all over - the scratches are very shallow (the color is fine and I can't feel them with my fingers), but I see them in reflected light and they get on my nerves.  What can I, a person who has never dealt with wood before, do to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The table, according to the manufacturer, has a polyurethane finish (on top of a walnut veneer). It doesn't look glossy, so the scratches aren't too much of a disaster, but I'd still like to fix them if that's reasonably doable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I tried Howard's Orange Oil Wood Polish and Old English Scratch Cover for Dark Woods (both rubbed in with a cotton cloth), but neither worked, although the Scratch Cover maybe helped a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3617" LastActivityDate="2018-10-18T03:03:13.050" Title="how to fix very light scratches in polyurethane finish?" Tags="|finishing|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5891" CreationDate="2017-04-23T21:55:05.710" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The polyurethane will be well cured by now. Without stripping everything back and starting over (which you should NOT do cause it's far too much work for a few scatches) all you can do is try and mask them (which you say you've tried and not had much success with), or apply a few coats of poly on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the existing finish will be completely cured, you will need to give the entire surface a very light (scuff) sanding first with high grit sand paper. This will hide/blend the existing scratches and give the new coat of poly something to physically bond to.  I would use a wipe on poly (homemade - 50/50 mineral spirits + poly blend) and apply at least 3 or 4 coats over a couple of days (following directions on can for timing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll definitely want to try this on the underside of the table first (or on some non visible part) - I'm sure you'd hate to end up making the problem worse (or at least more visible)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind that the new finish will be comparatively soft for up to a month and may also be quite stinky for the first week or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="282" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2018-10-18T03:03:13.050" LastActivityDate="2018-10-18T03:03:13.050" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5891" CreationDate="2017-04-23T22:18:54.567" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're going to have to make this look worse before it looks better. The first step is *gulp* to lightly sand or scuff the entire surface until the existing scratches aren't evident, and then do one of the following to restore shine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;polish the surface of the existing varnish&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add fresh polyurethane.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Polishing the surface is the harder of the two options here and not one I'd recommend a first-timer try on a completed piece of furniture. It's not &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; difficult to do but it requires practice and you don't have anything to practice on so that really only leaves option no. 2, which I think is the better route anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second option probably sounds daunting if you've never used varnish before but by using what's called wiping varnish (which can be bought readymade or made at home) it's quite easy to get a very good result without prior experience, as long as you follow the instructions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the sanding/scuffing of the existing varnish it's simply a matter of applying wiping varnish* as normal, layer by layer until you have a uniform sheen that you're happy with. There is more than one application method you can employ, but for simplicity you should probably use the wipe-on/wipe-off method which is the easiest and most straightforward and will virtually guarantee good results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Full instructions on how to go about this in this extract from &lt;strong&gt;Flexner on Finishing: Finally - Answers to Your Wood Finishing Fears &amp;amp; Frustrations&lt;/strong&gt; by Bob Flexner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hVenO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hVenO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Applying wiping varnish 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aq9nq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aq9nq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Applying wiping varnish 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fxlKl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fxlKl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Applying wiping varnish 3&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-04-23T22:18:54.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5895" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-24T04:04:31.443" Score="2" ViewCount="223" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Antique French Hunters Cabinet in which the top molding is missing.  See picture below which shows the piece before the top piece of molding was lost.  Where would I buy a piece of wood  molding to replicate the trim and how would I age and stain the wood so it matches the existing piece?  I have tried to go to my local Home depot and lowes and they don't have the inventory.  I would really appreciate any help you could provide. &#xA;Thanks&#xA; .&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lVvDC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lVvDC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3620" LastActivityDate="2017-04-24T04:04:31.443" Title="Where to buy and how to replace missing piece antique french hunters cabinet?" Tags="|furniture|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2017-04-25T14:26:45.707" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5891" CreationDate="2017-04-24T04:16:18.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For scratches that are not through the finish, you can simply make them vanish by scratching the finish more, and then scratching those scratches with smaller scratches, and stop when it suits you. Depending exactly how large they are, this is sanding and or buffing the finish - the only thing you need to be quite careful of is not making any of the new scratches go through the finish. If you do that, you'll need to refinish it. You need to be particularly careful if you are working near an edge, as edges are easy to over-sand on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might try starting with 600 grit sandpaper, and if that does not seem to affect the scratches, go to 400 grit. Sand just until you can't see the original scratches any more, vacuum and wipe the surface to remove any loose grit particles, and then work with progressively finer grits up to a point that suits the finish you started with (since you say it's not glossy, there's likely to be a point in the 1200-2000 range where more sanding is not called for.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to clean every time you change grit going coarser to finer - any loose grit from the coarser grade will make scratches you don't want. With each grade, you only want to use it until you can no longer see the scratches from the preceding grade. For flat work, using a sanding block is highly advisable. Don't press very hard at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3334" LastActivityDate="2017-04-24T04:16:18.210" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5897" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-24T10:18:54.333" Score="1" ViewCount="1230" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently making two shafts for two spears, and to do so in January I've cut down two relatively thin hazelnut trees, and kept at about 3 metres length; I don't really need them properly seasoned, but they have several bends which need addressing. To try and straighten them I've tied them tightly against a cement pole the day I cut them down, and I've left them there until today (Monday). I need them mostly straight in about 3 weeks, is there something I can do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3621" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2017-12-26T11:40:40.147" LastActivityDate="2017-12-26T11:40:40.147" Title="How can I straighten a bent shaft?" Tags="|technique|green-wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1496" CreationDate="2017-04-24T15:17:33.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Give Tru-Oil a try, I really really like it on walnut. Pops the grain better than BLO in my opinion. However, for a coffee table, I would top coat it with polyurethane as the tru-oil doesn't protect against water damage all that well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I too made a test piece for comparison. You can see the results here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://dannix.net/lib/abode/walnut&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://dannix.net/lib/abode/walnut&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TLX1L.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TLX1L.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;^^ BLO on the left, tru-oil in the center, bare wood on the right. The top row was applied with rottenwood mixed in which acts as a grain filler while the bottom row was not. Then a second application of BLO and Tru oil was applied for comparison in the right half of each respective square. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3596" LastActivityDate="2017-04-24T15:17:33.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5899" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5900" CreationDate="2017-04-24T15:45:57.267" Score="6" ViewCount="1251" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife picked up what I expect was a beautiful garden bench at one time in it's life from a garage sale. It has metal rails on the side with and a metal inlay in the back surrounded by a wood frame, and wood slats for the bench portion of it. I suspect in it's previous life, this is how it might have looked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s9ayk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s9ayk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem is at sometime in it's life the previous owner spray painted it a sickly grey, the entire thing, metal, wood, all of it. It's pretty horrible. I can sandblast the paint off of the metal and give it a good paint job, but for the wood I'm pretty sure sandblasting would be a bad idea -- In fact based on the fact that it was painted, I probably just want to replace the wood. I can rip wood and do various fancy cuts in straight lines for the bench seat, but unfortunately, the top of the back rest is curved. What is the best way to duplicate the curve of the existing piece I have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3356" LastActivityDate="2017-04-24T16:22:29.823" Title="How can I copy the cut of a curved piece of wood?" Tags="|tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5899" CreationDate="2017-04-24T15:55:36.823" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trace the outline of the old piece onto a new piece of wood.  First use a Jigsaw (or bandsaw if you have access to one) to get close to the line.  Then clamp the two pieces together with the original on the bottom and use a router with a bearing-guided flush-trim bit to exactly copy the original.  (Note that you'll want to use 3+ clamps so you can reposition them when you get to that area with the router.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Optional: The roundover on the top of the original (in this photo, at least) would make running a bearing against it a little more difficult, so you may want to make a template out of 1/4&quot; hardboard instead.  To make a template trace and jigsaw as above, but do final shaping with coarse sandpaper glued to a flexible piece of material.  The template will provide a better surface for the router bit's bearing to ride on than the roundover of the original.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2017-04-24T16:22:29.823" LastActivityDate="2017-04-24T16:22:29.823" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5865" CreationDate="2017-04-25T09:25:02.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you might be asking the wrong question. Depending on the orientation of your work, the angle of your tail will have little to no impact on strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll ellaborate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could sit down and calculate the optimal angle, based on the material, but it's impractically difficult, and it will only give you an approximation.&#xA;What we were taught at school (also the claim made in The Complete Dovetail by Ian J. Kirby), is that softwood dovetails are traditionally angled at 1/6, hardwood dovetails at 1/8. While this &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; affect joint strength, it is mostly an aesthetic consideration, and anything between 1/3 and 1/9 should be strong enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The considerations regarding dovetail strength are as follows:&#xA;Imagine a dovetail joint like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;_______________&#xA;    \   /&#xA;___ _\_/_ _____&#xA;   |     |&#xA;   |     |&#xA;   |     |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The angle of the tail is supposed to prevent the tail-piece from sliding out of the grove, a force pulls the pieces apart (as if someone pulled the tail-piece downwards in the illustration). The angle of the dovetail affects the joint-strength in this scenario:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too narrow an angle means the joint might be pulled apart, as the wood can be compressed until the sides of the tail becomes parallel. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too wide an angle might allow breakout on the tail. Imagine the wide end of the tail becoming wider; the added material isn't supported by the rest of the tail, and might break off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hence the wider angle for softwoods, that are more prone to compression than breakout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes sense only if your joint is stressed by a force parallel to the length of the tail piece! If the force is perpendicular to the length of the tail piece, tail-thickness will likely be all that matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A side note on angles:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;In joinery, it is common to measure angles (other than square and 45 degrees), not in degrees, but as the ratio between the side and hypotenuse of a right triangle. Thus 9.5 degrees is 1/6, and 7.1 degrees is 1/8..&#xA;A 1/6-slope tail should be measured out like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    ___1__     __1___&#xA;    \     |   |     /&#xA;     \    |   |    /&#xA;      \   | 6 |   /&#xA;       \  |   |  /&#xA;        \ |   | /&#xA;         \|   |/&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: The illustration is of course not to scale, as the &quot;6&quot; sides are not 6 times as long as the &quot;1&quot; sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1082" LastEditorUserId="1082" LastEditDate="2017-04-25T12:07:13.147" LastActivityDate="2017-04-25T12:07:13.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5505" CreationDate="2017-04-25T14:44:05.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can also try blowing out the dust with an air compressor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3612" LastActivityDate="2017-04-25T14:44:05.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5217" CreationDate="2017-04-25T17:49:39.077" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would refinish with a couple light coats of oil and/or wiping oil-varnish blend, making sure to wipe away the surface residue completely. The oil should help with the discoloration some, as it looks like the current finish has some tint to it. Oil will not be nearly as protective as what's currently on there. If you use a wiping blend, it will provide a modicum of protection, but you have to be a little more careful in applying it to blend it in with the surrounding area... and again, very light coats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2017-04-25T17:49:39.077" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5904" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-26T11:33:21.607" Score="4" ViewCount="203" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a dance studio I have a flooring from engineered wood, with top layer ~3mm ash.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;After 2 years the heavily used spot looks like this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KVdVl.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KVdVl.png&quot; alt=&quot;weared out&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;While in the corner, where there's not much traffic, it looks as new: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6NSb2.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6NSb2.png&quot; alt=&quot;unused&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that the varnish is wearing off on the edge grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I be worried that uncovered wood would deteriorate fast, being rubbed off in a few years?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How should I maintain the floor on a regular basis? Add some oil or wax when mopping it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I do like the aesthetics of the grain pattern on the surface, can I make it more prominent, applying some dark colouring maybe? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1811" LastActivityDate="2017-06-25T15:21:43.727" Title="Wear out of wooden floor" Tags="|finishing|staining|water-protection|varnish|end-grain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5904" CreationDate="2017-04-26T13:38:47.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I understand that the varnish is wearing off on the edge grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's what it looks like — the finish (likely varnish but possibly not) has been worn away, allowing dirt to lodge in the recessed grain of the ash. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should I be worried that uncovered wood would deteriorate fast, being rubbed off in a few years?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. It presumably will deteriorate fast&lt;strong&gt;er&lt;/strong&gt; but not fast because ash is quite a tough wood. It would take very heavy foot traffic, in normal footwear laden with grit from outside, to wear through a few millimetres of ash in just a few years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The entire thickness of the laminate will of course wear through in time, but I'm betting it would take &lt;em&gt;decades&lt;/em&gt; or longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How should I maintain the floor on a regular basis? Add some oil or wax when mopping it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than cleaning it as you would any normal wooden floor I don't know what the usual maintenance routine is for the floors in a dance studio. I do know that in many studios, and similar spaces with wooden floors, the areas that see the most use tend to look exactly like in your first photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I do like the aesthetics of the grain pattern on the surface, can I make it more prominent, applying some dark colouring maybe? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would only be able to highlight the recessed grain on the unworn areas by removing the existing finish and then treating the whole floor as one Details of how you might do this would be the subject for a subsequent Question but in outline you'd strip, then colour and refinish. Although chemical stripping isn't out of the question the usual way to strip floors is by sanding them, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4941/how-to-fix-a-wooden-floor/4942#4942&quot;&gt;previous Q&amp;amp;A&lt;/a&gt;. Because this takes off a material amount of the surface laminate it shortens the lifepan of the flooring each time it's done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well as that at some point in the near future the high-traffic areas will again end up looking much as they do in the first image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-04-26T13:38:47.023" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1503" CreationDate="2017-04-26T14:53:03.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I first bought a tool in a storage box from Bosch, it says Systainer on the lid and I found that it would stack and lock onto Makita Makpac boxes even though the Makita lid edges were slightly rounded off on one side. Unfortunately Bosch have in recent years gone to a different design called the &quot;L box&quot; which is no longer compatible with Makpac. This is a shame as I now have one oddball case for a Bosch Professional 12v tool that does not stack tidily with all the rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3629" LastActivityDate="2017-04-26T14:53:03.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4885" CreationDate="2017-04-26T17:02:30.087" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://homeguides.sfgate.com/watco-danish-oil-vs-polyurethane-wood-finishing-73045.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Danish Oil cures softer than polyurethane.&lt;/a&gt; So for me, it's worth it to do polyurethane over Danish Oil since my projects tend to be pieces that will be used (tables, boxes, cabinets).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3612" LastActivityDate="2017-04-26T17:02:30.087" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5908" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-27T17:26:47.360" Score="3" ViewCount="190" Body="&lt;p&gt;See attached image, which is a draft plan for a sewing machine box I'd like to make for my wife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wmdZz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wmdZz.png&quot; alt=&quot;Example plans&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice how the doors are quite deep (they'll have shelves inside). I'm wondering what the best way is to cope with corners A and B (marked on the image) bashing on the opposite edge when both doors are opened simultaneously, and in general, keeping the gap as small as possible all around the doors. My plan was to build a box, then cut it open, but that might not work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3516" LastEditorUserId="3516" LastEditDate="2017-04-27T17:39:06.133" LastActivityDate="2017-04-29T19:45:35.160" Title="Minimising Kerf on deep opening doors on box project" Tags="|hinges|boxes|door|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5908" CreationDate="2017-04-27T18:29:48.123" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My plan was to build a box, then cut it open, but that might not work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is the usual way of building a lid for a box. You build a hollow cube with no lid, then cut the lid off. This guarantees the lid will match up with the box. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Minimizing the kerf is going to depend on the tools you have at your disposal. I've cut box tops off with a table saw, which has about 1/8&quot; kerf, and with a band saw, which has such a small kerf as to be negligible (at least in my boxes!). If the box is small enough, you could also make the cut with a hand saw. (And indeed, when using the table saw or band saw to cut a lid off a box, it is recommended you don't cut all the way though, but instead leave just a bit of material left to take off with a hand saw. This is to prevent the lid from being unsupported on the last part of the cut. Unsupported lids will tend to fall off -- perhaps into the blade, getting scuffed up at best -- or worse, they will twist and tear out just before the cut is finished.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you intend to cut the doors off using the same method you'd use to cut off a box lid, one challenge in your design will be cutting the door sides on the left-most and right-most sides of the box. As designed, these would be stopped cuts. This means you have to stop cutting before you get to the end of the work piece. In this case, you'd cut from the top towards the bottom, but you'd have to stop the cut before you cut all the way to the bottom. This is more difficult than a cut that goes all the way through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or maybe not. One thing that would help you visualize the challenges you face would be to give your sides depth. The boards or plywood you will be using will have some depth to them. Right now, your sides are all two dimensional surfaces with no depth, as if they were a sheet of paper. This is hiding important details. For example, how will you join the tops of the lid and box to the sides, front, and back? Will these be 45° miters? Butt joints? Something else? It affects how you approach the piece. And it's hiding another important detail: Is the bottom of the box joined to the top of the box in one piece, or are they separate pieces? If they are separate pieces, there would be no stopped cuts, and the whole thing would be simpler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finishing out the design and giving all the sides depth will help you decide how you want to handle the joinery. The desired joinery and assembly plan will dictate whether you have problems with the kerfs for the doors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2017-04-27T18:29:48.123" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5910" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5911" CreationDate="2017-04-28T16:52:41.423" Score="4" ViewCount="4006" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting into woodworking using hand tools. I'd like to make a 2'x4' or 2'x5' workbench for my apartment.  I'd rather not use power tools as the noise would be an issue, and using old hand tools is enjoyable to me.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was considering laminating 2x4s for the bench top, but construction/framing 2x4s have rounded edges that I would rather not take the time and energy to plane by hand (no matter how much I enjoy using hand tools). I also don't want to deal with finding someone to run them through a planer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, could I just buy 1x4 stock that already has square edges and laminate those? Would there be any disadvantages compared to using 2x4s?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3638" LastActivityDate="2017-05-05T04:43:46.183" Title="Using 1x4 instead of 2x4 for laminated workbench top?" Tags="|workbench|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5910" CreationDate="2017-04-28T19:30:09.157" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can absolutely do this. It's just more glue joints to do but it's not really that much more work than if you were using 2x4s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the number of glue joints you might want to subdivide the glue-up into more subassemblies than normal. It's not uncommon to make three when doing a workbench top of this type, but with 1x4s you might want to make six instead. Once the glue has set on those they can then be glued together in one operation or into two or three subsections that you then glue into one piece as a final step. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure to use cauls or some other clamping setup to hold the top as flat as possible at each stage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you were to go with 2x4s...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;On planing away a lot of material by hand&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's maybe too early now to think this way but a dedicated handtool user should be able to deal with taking down the thickness of the 2x4s enough to remove those pesky rounded edges (especially as you really only need to do the top, not both sides). One mistake some make is in doing it to each board individually prior to the glue-up, when it's far easier to just glue them together and then plane the resulting panel in one go. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Removing this amount of material from a wide panel seems like it would be excessively effortful, and it is quite a substantial amount of wood that is being removed, but it can be done in a reasonable amount of time and without breaking your back if you use the right type of plane — one with a heavily cambered iron (curved cutting edge) — in the right way — across the grain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A common choice for this job these days is a plane converted to a scrub plane (usually something of similar size to a no. 4) but a jack plane or no. 5 set up in the traditional way can also be used for this purpose and many pros prefer a plane of that size for this due to its greater weight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than the curved cutting edge the secret to heavy planing of this type (sometimes called &quot;scrubbing&quot;) is the planing across the grain — either directly across the width or diagonally. In this direction wood puts up much less resistance than it does when planing parallel to the grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the bulk of the material has been removed cross-grain you can adjust the same plane to a lighter cut and work along the grain to flatten off the tops of the 'scooped' surface a little, then switch to whatever planes you'd normally use for flattening and smoothing, e.g. a no. 6 or 7 followed by a no. 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-04-28T19:30:09.157" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3847" CreationDate="2017-04-29T03:50:20.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would use Acetone. Pure acetone but add 10% water or it will evaporate before you can use it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3640" LastActivityDate="2017-04-29T03:50:20.337" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5897" CreationDate="2017-04-29T19:15:13.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw on the woodwrights shop them steam bending a long piece by putting it in some metal ducting and piping a regular tea kettle's steam output into it.  The far end got stuffed with a towel loosely.  After about 20 minutes they were able to bend an oak bar into a U shape by hand so if you have some straight reference and enough clamps I would think you could straighten a spear shaft in the same way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3135" LastActivityDate="2017-04-29T19:15:13.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5908" CreationDate="2017-04-29T19:45:35.160" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The doors should have no problem clearing each other assuming the hinge pivot is in line with the seam between doors and the stationary part of the cabinet as viewed from the top. The edges of the door you are concerned about will scribe a circular arc, as they swing outward, with the maximum approach to each other only when closed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bh4ex.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bh4ex.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2762" LastActivityDate="2017-04-29T19:45:35.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5885" CreationDate="2017-04-30T14:47:23.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do I need to worry?  Nope.  If you want to spline those mitres for alignment you can.  Properly applied, splines or biscuits are fine, but the value added is limited to help with alignment.  Your 3/4 inch material is going to give you an inch of gluing surface.  Plenty.  Glue both sides, clamp em up, and move on.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3473" LastActivityDate="2017-04-30T14:47:23.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5916" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5919" CreationDate="2017-04-30T15:36:49.283" Score="2" ViewCount="3169" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to build a bench for my in-laws. This is the basic plan:&#xA;(it's 150x70x40cm). The body will be made from 2.5cm by 12.5cm wood and the legs are 10x10cm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to make an angled back (so that you can lean on it) - nothing crazy, around 10-15 degrees. What's the best way to add one to structure? &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kSgZJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kSgZJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2263" LastActivityDate="2017-04-30T21:36:34.497" Title="Adding an angled back to a bench" Tags="|design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5917" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-30T16:59:33.153" Score="5" ViewCount="1399" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am  tooling up to sharpen circular saw  blades, besides purchasing a  good power  machine I wanted to purchase some quality  diamond files for  touch-up and perhaps even sharpening the entire  blade, I use diamond files/stones/wheels all  the  time  for  other  tasks, so  I was surprised I  couldn't  find  much in  the  way  of good files.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is  anyone using  diamond files for  working  on  their circular blades?  I haven't found much  information on the  use  of diamond  files for  circular saws, so I wanted to see if others here were using them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&#xA;sunaj&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3646" LastEditorUserId="3646" LastEditDate="2017-05-01T19:22:03.540" LastActivityDate="2018-01-05T04:30:15.730" Title="Does anyone use diamond files to touch up/sharpen circular saw blades?" Tags="|tools|cutting|sharpening|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5918" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-30T20:19:22.030" Score="5" ViewCount="11510" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am finishing oak trim (casing, baseboards, and quarter round).  I am using Minwax fast drying polyurethane clear satin.  The instructions call for 2 or 3 coats.  If I ensure that the 1st and 2nd coat adequately cover the trim, is the 3rd coat necessary or advised?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3647" LastActivityDate="2020-06-16T13:51:24.707" Title="How many coats of polyurethane?" Tags="|polyurethane|trim|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5916" CreationDate="2017-04-30T21:36:34.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want the back to be firmly braced by the bench base. To do so extend the back bench legs up to the height of the top of the back and connect them with a horizontal beam.  You can then set the angle by extending supports at the sides and two center supports down from the top to the seat support framing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2017-04-30T21:36:34.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5918" CreationDate="2017-05-01T00:46:57.713" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is not necessary. Adding another coat of poly would make the finished project a little tougher and resistant to wear, but it also shines it up a bit more, which may or may not be an effect you are wanting. In the case of baseboards and trim, they aren't really going to see much wear anyway, so another coat isn't giving you much benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So as long as you're happy with the results, there is no need to add another coat. The instructions for finishes are notorious for directing the user to apply more than is strictly necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2017-05-01T00:46:57.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5921" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-01T04:19:14.180" Score="3" ViewCount="28160" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a dutch tool chest out of extremely soft pine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if there is some penetrating finish that will harden up the outside a little bit.  Obviously it won't be dent proof but maybe something that penetrates and hardens, like general finishes water based poly (high performance).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also wanted to paint the chest.  Would I paint before or after the water based poly, if the main purpose of the poly is to harden the wood a little bit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3135" LastActivityDate="2018-04-27T01:27:14.830" Title="Harden soft pine" Tags="|finishing|pine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5921" CreationDate="2017-05-01T07:13:02.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I was wondering if there is some penetrating finish that will harden up the outside a little bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Danish oil&quot; and other mixed oil-and-varnish blends will do this, but you'll only get a modest improvement. One source claims it makes the surface of wood 25 or 30% harder but that has to be either a figure directly from a manufacturer or an estimate of the author. In either case expect this to vary because &quot;Danish oil&quot; varies significantly from brand to brand (some have more varnish in the mix and those will be harder).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Varnish will toughen the surface too in a different way because it sits on top and doesn't penetrate as much*. Thinning the varnish heavily will aid penetration only a small amount (much less than one would think) except on end grain, but it is reasonably common practice to dilute the first one or two coats and then go to straight varnish or varnish thinned only a small amount for the finishing coats so if this might help penetration even slightly there's little reason not to try. If wiping the varnish on instead of applying by brush or roller the above will occur naturally anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;general finishes water based poly (high performance).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's not a penetrating finish. One of the reasons for the classic lighter colour and less enhancement of figure imparted by waterbased polys is they penetrate the surface of the wood less than their oil-based counterparts (they're said to 'wet' the wood less effectively). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though finishes of this type are not at all like oil-based varnish they will still harden the surface in a similar way, although usually not as much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I also wanted to paint the chest. Would I paint before or after the water based poly, if the main purpose of the poly is to harden the wood a little bit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally if you're going to paint and varnish the varnish would go on after the paint. This isn't a hard-and-fast rule though and there's no technical reason you couldn't paint over wood that has had waterbased poly applied (particularly if it's just one thin coat) and then apply one or more subsequent coats to add a protective coating to the paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A full, glossy varnish film would present an adhesion problem for paints in exactly the same way that they'd have difficulty sticking to glossy plastic (because that's exactly what hardened waterbased poly is, a type of plastic). But a thin coating on wood presents a surface with abundant texture, from microscopic to macroscopic, which paint should have no problems adhering to. If in doubt though, very lightly scuff or sand before painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Wood in general doesn't want to allow things to penetrate, it's not really in its nature. This is why after staining it's so easy to accidentally sand through to bare wood, and that's with stains specifically made to &quot;penetrate deeply&quot; as the manufacturers all love to tell us! So, on face grain, the difference in penetration between a penetrating finish and oil-based varnish would actually be very small in fact, a difference of only a couple of thousandths (hundredths of a mm) at best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-05-01T07:13:02.830" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5921" CreationDate="2017-05-01T17:58:30.013" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a product called &quot;Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealant&quot;, or CPES for short.  It is basically a very thin 2-part epoxy.  It is typically used for stabilizing rotten wood, but it can also be used as a sealant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would imagine that it would harden the wood more than any other normal finish, since it is literally epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also takes paint very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2017-05-01T17:58:30.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5924" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5925" CreationDate="2017-05-01T19:03:01.350" Score="5" ViewCount="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is probably most applicable for water-based finishes, but I suppose it could be generalized to all finishes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once a finish has dried / cured, do I need to worry about incidental contact between a finish and its thinner / solvent? I'm not talking about leaving a piece finished with water-based poly outside in the rain, of course, but rather near a shower or sink, for instance. Will that contact with water eventually eat away the finish? Would it depend on the type of finish and/or how many coats and/or how thick each coat was?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt you'd have a similar situation with oil-based finishes outside the shop, but what if you spilled mineral spirits, for example? Would you need to worry about refinishing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastEditorUserId="2524" LastEditDate="2017-05-01T20:15:32.247" LastActivityDate="2017-05-01T23:59:04.510" Title="Do I need to worry about incidental contact between a finish and its thinner / solvent once it's cured?" Tags="|finishing|refinishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5924" CreationDate="2017-05-01T22:22:28.350" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is, it depends.  Finishes that &quot;cure&quot; after drying (like most oil-based products) will typically not be damaged by incidental contact with their solvent.  Finishes that only &quot;dry&quot; but do not cure (like shellac) can be removed with their solvent more-or-less indefinitely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your question specifically, water-borne products are not water soluble after they've cured.  Water-borne products are not actually water-based.  They have a finish material that is soluble in some solvent (typically glycol ether I think) that is itself soluble in water.  So they actually have 3 phases: water drying, solvent drying, finish curing.  Once the solvent has flashed off the finish is not water soluble at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the related question &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/884/what-is-the-difference-between-curing-and-drying&quot;&gt;What is the difference between &amp;quot;curing&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;drying&amp;quot;?&lt;/a&gt; for more information&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2017-05-01T23:59:04.510" LastActivityDate="2017-05-01T23:59:04.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5918" CreationDate="2017-05-02T02:56:17.073" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is always a personal preference, but given this is trim (assuming door/window casing, etc.) you should be absolutely fine with that many coats on a hardwood finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3650" LastActivityDate="2017-05-02T02:56:17.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="440" CreationDate="2017-05-02T12:59:44.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With regard to cleaning high speed woodworking tools such as saw blades and router bits, common oven cleaner works extremely well and is very inexpensive.  Spray the tool, scrub with a Scotch Brite if necessary, rinse in water and dry completely.  Apply a lite aerosol lubricant.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3652" LastActivityDate="2017-05-02T12:59:44.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5928" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-03T00:08:00.050" Score="4" ViewCount="4066" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put oil based wood conditioner on and but would rather used water based conditioner and stain.  I am able to put on water based stain over the oil based conditioner?  Or is there a way to remove the oil based conditioner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3656" LastActivityDate="2018-01-04T01:24:48.640" Title="Can you apply water based stain over oil based wood conditioner?" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1687" CreationDate="2017-05-03T02:21:28.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Flexible - better than  plaster.  I saw a show once that showed an old pro makling them himself using wood molds and a rabbit skin glue system.  This place's stuff looks comparible to his:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bomardesigns.com/products.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.bomardesigns.com/products.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3657" LastActivityDate="2017-05-03T02:21:28.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5930" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5932" CreationDate="2017-05-03T02:46:10.333" Score="5" ViewCount="2318" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working with pocket holes on half inch baltic birch plywood. The particular jig I'm using is the Kreg jig (the one with 2 holes) and I've only used it a couple times before so I know the bit is sharp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm finding that no matter what I try, the quality of the cuts is pretty bad and the store bought plugs (of the same brand) are loose. I know that I can use wood filler to solve the latter but the cut quality cannot be fixed by any means I know (which is why I'm asking this question).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a sample I made. I glued the plugs and after the glue dried, cut them with a flush cut saw. I then lightly sanded with 100 and 220 grit. The edges look awful!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aVIau.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aVIau.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything I can do to solve this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2838" LastActivityDate="2017-05-03T21:45:36.797" Title="Pocket hole tearout" Tags="|cutting|holes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5931" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5936" CreationDate="2017-05-03T05:19:29.907" Score="4" ViewCount="523" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to build this firewood rack, but I want to enlarge it and make it 8 feet wide and 54 inches high. It's all stock 2x4 material. Considering the increased load it's going to be carrying, will the two single bottom rails still suffice without sagging over the years? And how about the single middle support? Does that need to be two supports? This is going to be in a garage protected from weather, so I would expect it to last indefinitely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0sXlT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0sXlT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="482" LastActivityDate="2017-05-03T13:44:32.377" Title="Can I enlarge this wood rack without beefing it up?" Tags="|weight-capacity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5930" CreationDate="2017-05-03T05:29:56.897" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have two things happening here. First is loose pocket hole plugs. Second is tear-out of the veneer face of the plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For the problem of loose pocket hole plugs&lt;/strong&gt;, you will want to make sure you are drilling straight and not moving side to side as you drill, accidentally widening the hole. For the most part, the jig prevents this, so I'm not really sure that's your problem. In fact, I'm not really sure you have a problem: your work looks similar to lots of other examples of pocket holes I've seen. For example, here's an image from Lee Valley, showing examples of the plugs they sell:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VBopA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VBopA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pocket hole plugs, courtesy leevalley.com&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image credit: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/us/Wood/page.aspx?p=46273&amp;amp;cat=1,180,42311,46275&amp;amp;ap=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;leevalley.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their fit is very similar to yours. If the plugs simply do not fit to your satisfaction, you might want to try making your own pocket hole plugs instead of &#xA;using the store bought ones. There are various instructions on how to do this around the Internet. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Pocket-Hole-Plugs-Cutting-Sled-for-the-Kreg-Jig/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is an example&lt;/a&gt; that uses a specialized table saw sled, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GvJbpU3NSwU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here is a simpler one&lt;/a&gt; that uses the pocket hole itself as a jig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For the problem of veneer tear-out&lt;/strong&gt;, you'll need to adapt one of the usual techniques for dealing with tear-out to work with pocket holes. The techniques I am aware of are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using blue painter's tape to reinforce the veneer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using a sacrificial backer board to support the fibers being cut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scoring the veneer along the area to be cut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option #1, reinforcing with blue painter's tape, would be the easiest thing to try, so I'd probably try it first. This technique works very well to almost completely eliminate tear-out when cutting veneered plywood on a table saw. I imagine it would work pretty well with the pocket holes, too. The only downside is getting sticky painter's tape residue all over the saw blade/drill bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option #2 is to support the fibers with a sacrificial board. Clamp a sacrificial board to the face, so any pressure on the fibers to move up and off the face of the board is counteracted. The sacrificial piece will need to be a known thickness, say, 1/4&quot; thick, so you can adjust your pocket hole jig accordingly. I.e., instead of adjusting the jig to drill into 1/2&quot; stock, adjust it for 3/4&quot; stock. A caveat here: normally the tear-out you're trying to prevent is where the blade/bit is exiting the stock, i.e., on the back, so normally this is a backer board. You're trying to prevent tear-out on the front. But it might be worth trying anyway. I think the drill bit is probably lifting some of the veneer's fibers up and off the board as it cuts, and supporting those fibers would help make the cut cleaner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option #3 is to score the veneer where it's going to be cut. I'm thinking this would be the trickiest of my three options. To do it, hold a plug against the location that will eventually be cut away, and trace it with a sharp knife to score the veneer. It would take some experimentation to figure out where the plug should be held, as this isn't something that is entirely clear from the jig setup. But if you can manage to score the odd shape in the correct location, I think this option would work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For any of these, I'd want to experiment with my technique on representative scrap before using it in my project. But honestly, that advice is applicable any time you're trying a new technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2017-05-03T21:45:36.797" LastActivityDate="2017-05-03T21:45:36.797" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5933" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-03T09:09:44.987" Score="4" ViewCount="1415" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why must there be a clearance hole and pilot hole joining two pieces of material together? Why can't you drill a straight hole into them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3659" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2017-05-03T12:08:32.207" LastActivityDate="2017-05-04T17:40:07.830" Title="Screw clearance hole question" Tags="|screws|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5933" CreationDate="2017-05-03T12:07:51.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually you need a clearance hole so that the screw literally clears the first piece of wood and doesn't hold on to it. This is to prevent a problem called &lt;em&gt;bridging&lt;/em&gt; where the screw acts like a bridge between the two pieces of wood, holding them apart. When this occurs no amount of tightening will bring them snugly together*.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More on conventional woodworking screws, pilot and clearance holes in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2708/are-there-specific-types-of-screws-i-should-use-for-woodworking/2714#2714&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*This can be resolved however — as long as the screws haven't been over-tightened leading to damage of the walls of the pilot holes the screws can be withdrawn, clearance holes of the right diameter bored and the screws driven back in. With luck this will result in the screws holding just as strongly as if proper clearance holes had been drilled initially. If not then see some of the tips given &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3735/what-options-do-i-have-to-repair-this-chair/3737#3737&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; under &lt;strong&gt;Loose screws&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-05-03T12:07:51.563" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5935" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-03T12:42:48.300" Score="1" ViewCount="1127" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PWEVA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PWEVA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hi everyone &#xA;My carpenter friend has made me this mini grand piano shell for my one keyboard and I want to get it painted or sprayed like a grand piano finish.&#xA;I'm a complete novice here and need every assistance like what paint to use? Do I want an epoxy resin etc&#xA;Any help really appreciated and thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3660" LastEditorUserId="2762" LastEditDate="2017-05-03T14:18:55.853" LastActivityDate="2017-05-03T14:18:55.853" Title="Help get me a grand piano Hi Gloss Finish please" Tags="|furniture|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2017-05-03T21:16:18.997" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5931" CreationDate="2017-05-03T13:44:32.377" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firewood stacks pretty well, so there shouldn't really be any load acting sideways on the upright supports, even with a much wider (longer?) rack. Additionally, you're only making it taller by about 5 inches (~10%), so it's not a huge change in that direction. A lot of people stack firewood without any supports at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting some numbers into the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;sagulator&lt;/a&gt;, for an 8' Doug Fir 2x4 on edge, with supports at each end, it spits out a borderline sag of 1/4&quot; for 1000 lb, or an acceptable sag of 0.18&quot; for 750 lb. You have 2, so that bottom shelf should support roughly 1500 lb without any middle &quot;feet&quot;. Put a single foot in the middle, and it should support 6000 lb or so, and 2 or more feet should put it over 10000 lb. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lifirewood.com/firewood-facts.php&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;online&lt;/a&gt;, a cord of wood (4'x4'x8') weighs about 4000 lb. Your rack would hold approximately 1/4 of a cord, which would weigh about 1000 lb. Given these numbers, I'd still leave the single foot in the middle, or maybe add a second foot with any scraps you have leftover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the uprights, if you plan to loosely stack the firewood, no changes should be needed. If you really want to cram as much wood in as you can (i.e., using the uprights to hold wood which would otherwise fall), you may want to add some diagonal braces to each upright to provide some additional lateral stability. For a typical firewood pile, though, they shouldn't be needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastActivityDate="2017-05-03T13:44:32.377" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5935" CreationDate="2017-05-03T13:53:08.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used a water white conversion varnish for years with very excellent results.  it must be applied with a sprayer and dries very quickly so multiple coats can be applied.  I get my sprayer gun at harbor freight for $10-$14.  Conversion varnish is a catalyzed product that can easily be buffed out once it is cured.  Check out Lenmar Megavar.  Excellent stuff.  Once cured, use a buffer with 3M Perfect-It 05973.  Epoxy would be impossible to apply to vertical surfaces and it's much more expensive. I believe you would be well served by using this process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3652" LastEditorUserId="2762" LastEditDate="2017-05-03T14:18:32.307" LastActivityDate="2017-05-03T14:18:32.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5938" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5940" CreationDate="2017-05-04T04:08:40.963" Score="4" ViewCount="1345" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently asked a question here regarding the use of 1x4s rather than 2x4s for a laminated workbench top and got some helpful advice. I decided to go with 2x4s, and now it's time to build. Before I do, I'd like to run my general plan past this community to see how it sounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan on laminating 16 5' long 2x4s to make a 5x2' bench top.  I'll use a plane to skim the face of each board to help the gluing process, use my 6 5' long bar clamps to hold the glue-up together overnight, and then build the base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the base, I have 8 3' 2x4s to laminate in pairs for the legs, the depth of the legs being 3.5&quot; each and the width being 3&quot; each. I have enough material for two sets of pairs of laminated 2x4 stretchers, one at the top of the legs, to be tenoned into the leg mortises, and one at the bottom of the legs to be tenoned in.  Then I have enough for 4 sets of 2 laminated 5' 2x6s to run the length of the bench, also tenoned into the legs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I'll end up with a frame that is 2'x5' with fairly stout legs and good bracing across and along the depth. Then I'd like to use dowels to attach the top, so it could be removed to be semi-portable. Those would be between the top and the stretchers on the left and right sides, either one on each side or a pair on each side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything wrong with this design? Most designs I see have the top overlapping the base by a few inches on each side, especially when considering the length. Is this a requirement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: here's a quick sketch of my idea: &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gGnhp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;workbench sketch&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3638" LastEditorUserId="3638" LastEditDate="2017-05-04T15:29:12.113" LastActivityDate="2017-05-05T08:36:52.147" Title="Need help understanding workbench design and build process" Tags="|workbench|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5938" CreationDate="2017-05-04T13:27:33.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will definitely help to have at least a rough drawing, but I don't see a problem with this. Workbenches for woodworking can be very personal and should match the work you do. It's a little small as benches go, but should be sturdy. There are advantages to having the top:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;overhang the legs at the long ends of the bench&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;be flush with the legs along the sides&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See books by Schwartz and Landis about workbench design for details. But generally, the overhang on the long ends - depending on the width of the bench -&#xA; allows you to hang something like an entire drawer over it for working. The flush sides help you clamp/hold panels square to the top for edge work, either profiling or joinery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2017-05-04T13:27:33.330" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5938" CreationDate="2017-05-04T13:28:31.023" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a bench similar in construction to what you describe only a bit bigger ( 8' long with two 1' wide top slabs separated by 1 1/2&quot; gap - roubo style split top).  I made mine with 2x6 instead of 2x4s; I use it for hand planing so I wanted it to be a bit heftier. It also has a leg vise and an embedded wagon vise running along the front face of the top. I have several considerations for you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's good to skim the boards in the planer to insure flatness.  Do not plane the top and bottoms until your slab is glued.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do not try to glue up all the top pieces at once. I worked with pairs first and after they set I glued pairs of pairs etc. to get to the final width.  When I got up to 12&quot; width I ran the top through the planer to get the top nearly flat and get rid of the rounded edges of each board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My stretcher tenons (connected with the legs to a depth of 2&quot; and were tight to insure maximum glue contact.  I did not need to add an apron brace at the top of the legs.  If the base needs more rigidity you can add a top brace later on the inside face of the leg ( see next comment).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I made my legs 3 boards wide (4 1/2) so that the mortices for the stretchers could be 1 1/2&quot; wide.  I simply notched the middle leg board to the depth of the tenon and avoided custom chiseling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep the face of the legs and top front and back face flush.  You can clamp larger pieces to the face that way.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I routed a mortice on the underside of my top to snugly receive the legs as tenons to a depth of 1 1/2&quot;. The top just sits on the legs but because of the weight the top and legs act well as a unit. I would allow a little extra width on the mortices to allow the table top width to expand and contract against the fixed width leg structure. (My split top  absorbs that expansion and also serves to hold tools and provide a stop for planing materials. (see roubo table designs on the net for details).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allowing the top to overhang the legs on the sides will provide good clamping opportunities and make the leg structure more ridgid due to the shorter spans.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 'workbench&quot; tag wiki has a couple greate references books for design and construction details&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For me it's all about clamping my work so I included the vises, as well as strategically placed holdfast holes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you added your design sketches I want to add the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You didn't clarify what you will use the bench for. In this answer, I assume it will be for heavier woodworking tasks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Although not to scale, I assume the 2x4s are long side vertical.  This adds a great deal of strength to the bench. If the bench is only 1 1/2&quot; thick it will not be as suitable for heavy loads or work such as planing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x4s will work at the lower level for all 4 sides.  2x6s are not needed.  Keep the bottom of the 2x4s up 5&quot;-6&quot; (or more) so that you can get a broom under it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the top is 3 1/2 thick then the 2x6 aprons should not be necessary if the legs tenon into the top 1 1/2&quot;.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tenons of the sides into the legs are shown smaller than the 2x4s.  I made mine full sized to increase the gluing surface.  This was easier to construct and added strength for heavy duty work. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The top need only overhang the legs enough that you can use clamps at the full depth of the edges.  4&quot;-6&quot; each side should be more than enough for most wood clamps.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When looking at your side view, note that the top will expand and contract while the legs assembly will not.  Your connection between the two should allow for the differential movement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can add a shelf on the lower leg supports for storage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good Luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-05-05T00:39:33.403" LastActivityDate="2017-05-05T00:39:33.403" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5933" CreationDate="2017-05-04T17:40:07.830" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While &quot;bridging&quot; can be an issue, it can be resolved by having the member clamped or forced together in an alternative way such as standing on the members. The prevalent use today of deck screws and &quot;drywall screws&quot;, for purposes other than drywall, testify to this. In these cases, at least in softwood, either a single hole is drilled or no hole at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, these screws are different than traditional wood screws which have a non-threaded shoulder. If you drill only one hole, especially in hardwood, this shoulder can cause significant binding while screwing in. If you accomodate this by making a larger hole, you compromise the ability of the threads to grab. Ergo, the two-hole solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2762" LastActivityDate="2017-05-04T17:40:07.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5910" CreationDate="2017-05-05T04:43:46.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I you have limited space to work and you wish to use 1x4s, then you might be interested in my project for a workbench / clamping table. You can find the design free on grabcad here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://grabcad.com/library/folding-clamp-and-glue-bench-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://grabcad.com/library/folding-clamp-and-glue-bench-1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't remember if I included drawings, but you can get the general idea if you don't have a cad program.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3668" LastActivityDate="2017-05-05T04:43:46.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5943" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-05T05:53:39.657" Score="1" ViewCount="255" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why do screws so often work even without a clearance hole? It seems like in theory, the screw should &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; push the joint apart (bridging). But in my experience, screws more often seem to tighten the joint. How does this work? Is it because the screw strips the threads in the first piece of wood a little bit, so it works the same as though it had a clearance hole?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3550" LastActivityDate="2017-05-05T07:51:00.703" Title="Why do screws usually work well without clearance holes?" Tags="|joinery|screws|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5943" CreationDate="2017-05-05T07:51:00.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would challenge the 'usually' in your thread title, because the experience of many would suggest otherwise. But the screws you're using most and how you're using them will be factors. It may highlight the difference between power driving and hand-driven screws. And material matters, MDF and particleboard/chipboard aren't the same as wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to your theory of the screw stripping the thread in the first piece of wood, my bet is that it won't be the main factor. But withdraw some screws and look. That's the best way to find out if that is what occurs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This might not be obvious but if the two pieces are tightly together already &lt;em&gt;and held that way&lt;/em&gt; (e.g. firmly clamped or already glued) then that spacing will be maintained as the screw is driven home. If they're not tightly together however then bridging is a virtual certainty with most screws IME — as anyone who has had this happen will have seen, as the screw is driven in it will move the first piece off the second and then the gap will not close to nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if using a conventional wood screw with an unthreaded portion at the top under the head and the first piece is roughly the same thickness there is no thread there to cause bridging, so that would prevent the problem since the action of the screw can overcome friction and pull the first piece down snug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-05-05T07:51:00.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5938" CreationDate="2017-05-05T08:36:52.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it's worth saying upfront that entire books have been written about workbenches*, going into detail about their designs and build details so as detailed as the Answers you get here might be this will really only scratch the surface! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'd like to use dowels to attach the top, so it could be removed to be semi-portable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good way to do it. This isn't the only way the top can be made easily removable but it's a simple, elegant solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Those would be between the top and the stretchers on the left and right sides, either one on each side or a pair on each side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should use centrally-placed ones and not a pair each side as expansion and shrinkage of the top will cause a problem with those, even with it minimised by the grain orientation of the wood in this type of top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be overkill but might be worth going with hardwood dowels here. Unless they're large in diameter softwood dowels may not be quite strong enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there anything wrong with this design? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I refer you to my opening paragraph :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Most designs I see have the top overlapping the base by a few inches on each side, especially when considering the length. Is this a requirement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not just a few inches in many cases, overhang can be considerable. 12&quot; (300mm) wouldn't be unheard of. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether to have an overhang depends on what work you'll be doing and how — which methods of workholding you'll need to account for, and how frequently. But as a general thing I personally think an overhang is practical and actively desirable to make maximum use of clamps so a must-have on both ends, and possibly on the front &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; back as well. Depending on where you site the bench of course, if it's against a wall there's no benefit from an overhang along the side or sides in contact with walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not going to be using clamps however but instead will rely on holdfasts, hold-downs and other traditional forms of workholding then an overhang may not be necessary at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*See this previous Question if you're interested in reading up on the subject more, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5651/is-there-a-workbench-type-reference&quot;&gt;Is there a workbench &amp;quot;type&amp;quot; reference?&lt;/a&gt; although I don't think it's vital that you do so at this point. IMO it would be much better to build a bench and have it done and available and then read up on the subject if you want. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As many who have written about building benches have said already, even a bench that's not perfect is better than no bench at all. Numerous woodworkers have used a bench for &lt;em&gt;years&lt;/em&gt; that didn't have all the features they wanted. But if it's solid and doesn't move about when work is being done on it that's what really counts most. Your proposed bench has all the hallmarks of being solid and dependable so with or without minor tweaks just go for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-05-05T08:36:52.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5946" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-05T18:34:52.463" Score="4" ViewCount="3150" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm custom building some bird feeders which will be sold for a charity. They need to be safe for birds, look decent for a while, preferably be environmentally friendly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) What are my options for longterm protection that won't turn yellow, peel the paint work in the short-term, but is considered environmentally friendly/safe for birds? Is there anything on the market like this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) What would be my next best option? Paint the feeder but not use any finish?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They'll be hand painted with this paint &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lakelandpaints.co.uk/paints-for-wood/gloss/gloss-paint-interior-exterior-1-litre/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.lakelandpaints.co.uk/paints-for-wood/gloss/gloss-paint-interior-exterior-1-litre/&lt;/a&gt; with brushes on exterior grade plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3669" LastActivityDate="2017-05-06T07:38:31.797" Title="Longterm protection for outdoor painted bird feeder (bird safe &amp; environmentally friendly)?" Tags="|finishing|paint|outdoor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5947" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-05T20:25:15.933" Score="2" ViewCount="241" Body="&lt;p&gt;If my table saw fence is set at 15 1/2 inches and I cut a 3/4 inches piece of plywood first one way then the other, why won't the corners register as square? The measurements are right down both sides. Any help would be greatly appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3670" LastActivityDate="2017-05-06T16:13:54.360" Title="Why don't my corners read square?" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5947" CreationDate="2017-05-05T21:01:23.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because your fence is referencing off of whatever nonsquare side it is up against.  The correct solution is to clamp or nail a strip of known straight wood onto your stock (square to your intended cut), then rip with this straight piece of wood up against the fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you do this you can remove the scrap block, flip the board and rip it again.  This will yield two parallel sides.  To square the ends just draw a square line from both sides (which should intersect if both sides are parallel) and crosscut this line on each end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3135" LastActivityDate="2017-05-05T21:01:23.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5949" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5951" CreationDate="2017-05-05T23:33:33.330" Score="3" ViewCount="6844" Body="&lt;p&gt;The project is an oak dining table top. The varnish had worn off in spots. After stripping a few spots that had been exposed for longer still had a gray, aged look. It is a veneer so I didn't want to do too much sanding; therefore, I used Bar Keeper's Friend (oxalic acid) to bleach the spots. That and light sanding lessened the stains enough that I moved on to staining after cleaning the entire table with mineral spirits. Used Minwax penetrating stain and it looked beautiful. The &quot;problem&quot; occurred when I applied Minwax wipe-on poly. The first application dried fine, except for the spots where I had used the bleaching solution. Those spots stayed tacky. After letting it sit overnight they seemed sufficiently dry to apply second coat. But the tacky feel is again present only in those spots. I am considering trying a shellac finish over the poly. Other options y'all might suggest? Any advice on how to proceed is much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3672" LastActivityDate="2023-05-23T20:19:08.800" Title="What can be done to correct wipe-on poly that is still tacky after 24 hours?" Tags="|finishing|staining|tabletop|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5949" CreationDate="2017-05-06T07:09:33.040" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best option at this point is to adopt a wait-and-see attitude, so just wait longer and see if the varnish will dry properly given enough time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be patient. Sometimes drying is slowed by one or more factors and sometimes it's slowed &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt;, but often (usually?) it will cure if you can just wait it out. Many times when you read someone complain that their varnish &quot;just wouldn't dry&quot; you find out they only waited a few days to a week, when in my experience retarded drying might take weeks to resolve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However that is not to say that drying will always complete, unfortunately it is possible to have something that remains permanently tacky :-( And in this case the best course of action is often to strip back and begin again*. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For now, if you can, put the table somewhere warm with good airflow to provide the best drying conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am considering trying a shellac finish over the poly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That would work to seal off the areas of new varnish, but it would be best to apply the shellac to varnish that is dry to the touch because otherwise the tacky surface could interfere with application — you'd have 'draggy' spots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And in order to have a varnish-tough surface you'd need to apply further coats of wipe-on over the top, the shellac then being used as a barrier coat (something it is often relied upon for).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you create a new surface of shellac it'll be like you &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; applied shellac, your tabletop will remain permanently sensitive to water, will be damaged by alcohol, and won't be as resistant to scratching as you'd like it to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Although if it's very slight a coat of paste wax over the top can resolve the issue enough that the surface is usable. But be aware the tackiness indicates the varnish hasn't dried thoroughly so the surface won't be as tough as it could be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-05-06T07:09:33.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5946" CreationDate="2017-05-06T07:38:31.797" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The paint you're planning on using is already rated for exterior use. I can't speak to its quality but if used as per the manufacturer's guidelines you should get their expected service life which is often in the region of five to seven years, long enough I'd think for a bird feeder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most painting guides suggest that to extend service life in exterior applications it's vital to prime the wood first. This may no longer be as true as it once was because of modern paint formulation, but it is generally sound advice and usually you won't regret priming before painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to maximise the time these will look their best there's something else you can do before the paint goes on, and that is to seal all end-grain surfaces to prevent moisture ingress. Epoxy is ideal for this purpose. You can use standard epoxy glue, no need for anything specialised (and more expensive) than this. Rub the thoroughly mixed epoxy on to all end-grain surfaces and once fully hardened lightly sand and then paint as normal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;but is considered environmentally friendly/safe for birds&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All finishes you might use are bird-friendly once cured. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost all finishes these days aren't inherently toxic (no lead pigments and so forth) and a cured film of the binder is quite inert by definition. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So there's no need to go with any green or 'green' paints for this. Standard paints of various types are used for beehives and insects are far more sensitive to chemicals than even birds are. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-05-06T07:38:31.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5947" CreationDate="2017-05-06T16:13:54.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start with the miter gauge. If one side of the plywood is reasonably straight and won't rock against the miter gauge's fence, you can use this procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Place the reasonably straight face against the miter gauge, make a cut. Now you know the cut you just made is straight. But don't trust the mostly-straight face that was against the miter gauge; nothing is necessarily square yet.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rotate the work piece 90° so the known-straight face you just cut is against the miter gauge. Make another cut. Now you know the face you just cut is straight, and it's also square to the first face.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Now ditch the miter gauge and bring back the rip fence. You can cut to width using the rip fence against either of the two faces that are known straight and square to each other.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that I'm assuming your miter gauge is square to the blade and your rip fence is parallel to the blade. If they're not, you'll have to fix that first. (And note that a rip fence that isn't parallel to the blade can be dangerous if it causes the work piece to pinch against the blade as the cut proceeds.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get your plywood stock roughly to the size you want it with a circular saw first. Clamp a guide to make the circular saw cuts straight enough to use against the miter gauge. Make your rough cuts so that you have enough stock to comfortable trim to square with the table saw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A cross cut sled helps make the cuts easier and more accurately. It eliminates friction between the top of the table saw and the bottom of the work piece, so the work piece doesn't slide across the miter gauge fence/cross cut sled fence as easily.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2017-05-06T16:13:54.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5954" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-06T19:30:36.170" Score="4" ViewCount="193" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4IFKO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DN2sd.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q0ze2.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gcSeK.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to recreate the dining table shown in the attached image. I have been able to figure out the general structure and recreated it in google sketchup. However, I am unable to come up with a way to recreate it with actual wood. I am able to create the leg and then attach the horizontal bar to it as in the design. But when I try to add the top to it, I can't figure out how to get all three angles to meet at a single point. Can someone help?&#xA;Edit: As suggested, I am adding the materials used. I am using 1/2&quot; thickness veneered MDF the entire project. I am attaching the pieces together with glue + metal strips + screws and nails. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3675" LastEditorUserId="3675" LastEditDate="2017-05-07T05:18:38.803" LastActivityDate="2017-08-09T08:40:22.953" Title="Dining table with multiple miter cuts" Tags="|miter-joint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5955" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-06T20:45:34.813" Score="2" ViewCount="1995" Body="&lt;p&gt;This part of the chair was damaged during shipping and I was wondering if it would be safe to glue together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zHB45.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zHB45.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part on the left is a leg and the horizontal bar on the right supports the front of seat. I would imagine that the broken joint supports a bit of weight. Would glue be sufficient to hold it together?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tenon is stuck firmly inside the mortise, I don't think I can extract it. If I were to attempt to glue it back together would I apply glue on the entire side face of the leg or just the broken tenon?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a side view:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7K76k.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7K76k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have very little woodworking experience, so any advice would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional pictures: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RRzBb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RRzBb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;[&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/agpQH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/agpQH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2907" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2017-05-10T20:23:31.493" LastActivityDate="2017-05-10T20:23:31.493" Title="How should I fix a broken chair stringer?" Tags="|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5955" CreationDate="2017-05-07T01:21:52.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I lack confidence that the glue joint would hold.  The loading on the chair was great enough that it separated the grain in the wood.  Part of the reason for the failure was that the seat support rail did not have straight grain carrying the load across the entire width of the chair rail. Instead the grain angled to the outside leaving little of the length to support the loads.  While it is argued that the glue joint would be stronger than the original wood, the strength is still limited by the small area wood grain to support the stress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be inclined to replace the piece by drilling out the remaining rail segment in the leg tenon and making a new chair rail with a better piece of wood.  This will take a bit of woodworking experience to do so you may want to find an experienced woodworker to repair the chair for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-05-08T00:06:41.387" LastActivityDate="2017-05-08T00:06:41.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5955" CreationDate="2017-05-07T01:39:45.583" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Ashlar's answer and I was going to say many of the same things, so I will just add some alternatives. My answer will depend on exactly what the break looks and how easy you think it will be to work with but if you want to try a little DIY here are some suggestions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The easiest option would be to glue it and then drive a screw through the joint, but that would probably not look very nice.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;An alternative to the screw is to run a dowel though the leg and into the support. To do this you should glue the leg together and once the glue sets up drill a hole into the support then glue in the dowel and then cut the dowel flush. This image shows the theory I am describing but in your case you would want to run the dowel in from the other direction as your tenon is already stuck in the mortise. Animation from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.technologystudent.com/joints/mort2.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;technologystudent.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V5LZV.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V5LZV.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are really worried about the outer face then you could try to embed the dowel inside the joint, this would be harder and require you to be very careful about hole size and placement but it is possible. Image from &lt;a href=&quot;https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Woodworking-joint-butt-dowel.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikimedia Commons&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Eb9ic.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Eb9ic.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3598" LastEditorUserId="3598" LastEditDate="2017-05-10T16:43:44.657" LastActivityDate="2017-05-10T16:43:44.657" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5958" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5959" CreationDate="2017-05-07T23:38:14.813" Score="6" ViewCount="3395" Body="&lt;p&gt;I laminated some 2x4s for workbench legs, and as you can see by the attached picture, there's a gap between two of the boards. I applied the glue in a zig zag line down the length of the boards and then a line along all 4 edges of the board's face.  I clamped the 3' long glue-up with 5 clamps that I tightened pretty securely. I'm wondering why this gap exists, and what I can do better next time, since I still have to glue up the entire top.  I did glue up all four legs at the same time, so will take the previous advice to do a pair at a time from this point forward.  I don't think this is a problem structurally, but maybe next time I should brush on the glue smoothly?  Maybe I should be planing these flatter to start with? Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uedJn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uedJn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;glued boards&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DOWV9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DOWV9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;glued boards 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vdz16.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vdz16.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;glued boards 3&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3638" LastEditorUserId="3638" LastEditDate="2017-05-07T23:48:04.367" LastActivityDate="2017-05-08T16:18:03.193" Title="Laminating 2x4s - brush on the glue?" Tags="|glue|workbench|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5958" CreationDate="2017-05-08T00:32:32.373" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have several suggestions for gluing this type of slab.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The glue does not spread itself.  Always distribute it evenly before making contact between pieces.  You can do this using a brush or a roller.  I keep a rubber ink roller to distribute glue in large areas and then simply rinse it to clean off the glue for its next use.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glue on both contact faces will insure maximum contact better than on only one face.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run the bottom of the boards through the jointer to insure the base of the slab is flat so that the pieces will set flat during and after gluing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do not glue and clamp all the pieces at the same time.  These pieces are larger and it will take a lot of pressure and a lot of clamps to make full contact between all the pieces.  For a 2x bench slab like this I would plane the contact faces of two boards, glue them together, let them set, plane the outside faces and then join the pairs together  and then repeat for the 4 piece slabs until done.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use plenty of clamps (1 per foot would be nice).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once the slab is as wide as possible for your planer, runt the joined sections through the planer. (This will reduce the amount of hand planing needed to get the top surface flat and eliminate the ridges caused by the milled edges of the original 2xs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-05-08T13:02:41.963" LastActivityDate="2017-05-08T13:02:41.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5960" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-08T15:10:02.687" Score="4" ViewCount="6533" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a set of built in bookshelves with floating shelves set on pins. The bookshelves will be painted, so I'm assuming 1 coat of primer and 2 coats of finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I drill the holes for the floating shelves before assembly or after painting? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figure that if I drill before paint, the paint will change the dimensions of the holes. I'd like to paint after assembly and before installing the cases to the wall, so if I drill after paint, access to the holes will be limited. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This particular problem is about the order of operations: &lt;br/&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glue Up &lt;br/&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paint &lt;br&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glue Up &lt;br/&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill &lt;br&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paint &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3681" LastEditorUserId="447" LastEditDate="2017-05-13T02:42:06.253" LastActivityDate="2017-06-12T03:01:03.487" Title="Drill holes for bookshelves before or after paint?" Tags="|paint|assembly|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5958" CreationDate="2017-05-08T16:18:03.193" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the ends of the boards in the first photo you can see that they are tight at the bottom, but not at the top.  It looks to me like the faces of the boards that you glued together are convex (i.e. the opposite of cupped, not sure what the correct term is).  It might also be that they're twisted.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way I think the solutions is better milling beforehand.  You can't really rely on construction lumber being straight or flat, and clamping it into submission isn't always possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2017-05-08T16:18:03.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5928" CreationDate="2017-05-08T19:36:38.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would give it a try on a spare piece of wood. But removal/cleanup should be listed on the product can. Most likely will be mineral spirits. I don't use water-based products on wood, so I guess I'd have to ask what the benefits are. Penetrating stain cleans up with mineral spirits and is easy to apply, just make sure you wipe the extra off before it gets sticky. Danish oil is even easier if you aren't following up with poly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3672" LastActivityDate="2017-05-08T19:36:38.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5963" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-08T23:40:24.270" Score="3" ViewCount="1382" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to joint the wood using my router table, ideally to JOINT BOTH SIDES of the wood using the router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anyway to make both sides parallel with it alone? (people run the other side with a tablesaw as i understand, which i do not own).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions/ideas where i do not have to purchase additional tools/machines are welcomed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3683" LastActivityDate="2017-05-09T07:05:55.000" Title="How to joint both sides of a wood without a tablesaw &amp; jointer?" Tags="|jointer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5954" CreationDate="2017-05-09T02:01:33.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cool table.  Veneer over MDF is good for the top, but what will amount to the apron, and the legs, will require a plywood substrate. 3/4 MDF or plywood, btw.  1/2 inch material is too flimsy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing the factory that made the table has some kind of bracket in each of the corners.  ( Can you swing by the store and take some pics of the underside?) I'm also guessing that what looks like a thick top is actually a top with an angled apron, behind which you can hide the bracket, fasteners, and stiffeners.  I could be wrong, but I think you need to re-examine your interpretation of the engineering. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can we post files on this site? If so, I'd really like to see your .skp -  any suggestions would be simpler to convey if I could putz with your drawing a bit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3473" LastActivityDate="2017-05-09T02:01:33.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5965" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5967" CreationDate="2017-05-09T06:12:40.337" Score="5" ViewCount="195" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw this surface on a bench and I would like to attempt to recreate it:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p6T27.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p6T27.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the vague idea I could try to do this with some kind of chisel, but I have no idea how to get started or if I'm even barking up the right tree. Any pointers would be much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3684" LastActivityDate="2017-05-16T03:31:33.713" Title="How would I go about recreating this surface?" Tags="|chisel|carving|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5963" CreationDate="2017-05-09T07:05:55.000" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Joint the second side using the first side (the side already jointed) as the reference surface, not by running the unjointed surface along the fence. Obviously this will necessitate removing the router from the table and installing its own fence for tackling the second side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above requires that the router be unmounted for only part of the operation and you might prefer to do the whole thing using a single setup, in which case one of the solutions given in this Answer should help, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2484/methods-of-jointing-without-a-jointer/2487#2487&quot;&gt;Methods of jointing without a jointer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-05-09T07:05:55.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5965" CreationDate="2017-05-09T07:43:24.277" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;By hand&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You could do this using a gouge (a type of chisel with a curved cutting edge) but it would require that its edge be very sharp indeed* to get an acceptable surface inside the scoops. In addition to getting the gouge sharp enough initially this will require frequent upkeep of the edge during the job, as often as every few minutes depending on the hardness of the wood and how well it is cutting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Router&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Freehand routing with a round-nose bit might achieve this but it would require unerring attention on the part of the operator O_O &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case some practice pieces will be required! Even with that I wouldn't expect to get a really nice result first time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Sharpening a gouge to an equivalent level to a straight-edged chisel is something that many find much more difficult, some guidance that will help achieve the necessary sharpness (there's really only one standard to aim for, hair-poppingly sharp) is given in a previous Answer, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3820/how-do-i-sharpen-curved-tools-like-gouges/3822#3822&quot;&gt;How do I sharpen curved tools like gouges?&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-05-09T07:43:24.277" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5955" CreationDate="2017-05-09T16:59:27.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While it would be my preferred fix I think that you could get a satisfactory fix by gluing it back together with a high-quality marine epoxy.  I would NOT use normal wood glue (Titebond or similar), but I believe that something like West or Entropy epoxy, with a suitable filler, would hold securely enough for normal use for a non-load-bearing piece like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, you will still have the issue that the piece has grain runout in that area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2017-05-09T17:55:38.110" LastActivityDate="2017-05-09T17:55:38.110" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5970" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-10T01:50:24.903" Score="2" ViewCount="12267" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on a project that requires securely fastening a 1-1/4&quot; x 48&quot; closet dowel rod into 1&quot; side boards at 90 degrees. Is there a good way to fix these large diameter dowel rods into the board at 90 degrees and keep them perpendicular? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The project is essentially a modified version of Swedish stall bars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even after drilling a tight fit 1-1/4&quot; hole, there is still slop allowing me to freely reposition the dowel rod so that it is no longer perpendicular to the board face. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3142" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2017-05-10T04:35:10.247" LastActivityDate="2017-05-10T11:58:57.547" Title="Best way to join dowel rod perpendicular to board face?" Tags="|joinery|board-materials|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5971" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-10T05:24:28.753" Score="1" ViewCount="782" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like shellac's color and ease of application, but the bottom of my laptop melts my table's finish. Yes, seriously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking to cross-link the finish (taking advantage of all the hydroxyl and carboxyl groups) by mixing it with a bit of epoxy or epoxy hardener (polyamine). (Note: shellac is pretty reactive, which is probably one reason it works as a primer. It will crosslink all by itself, if the heat is high enough.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you know of anything else that can be added to shellac to make it cross-link or increase the heat tolerance? I don't like the idea of adding epoxy or hardener because it may have a very short pot life. I might also be able to try mixing it with lacquer. What additives would you try?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3550" LastActivityDate="2017-05-10T05:24:28.753" Title="Which additives increase shellac's heat resistance?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5970" CreationDate="2017-05-10T11:58:57.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will be facing this problem soon, and I've thought of 3 ways to do this, all of which are fundamentally the same. Basically, you need to expand the dowel in the hole so that it is tight to the sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the dowel end can be accessed by the other (flat side, ie, it's a through- mortise), there are two options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With an undersized pilot hole, or no pilot hole at all, screw a small wood screw into the center of the end grain on the outer side. This will push the wood fibers out, expanding the dowel diameter in the mortise, and compress the dowel into the mortise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a wedge or two to accomplish the same thing. I'd imagine you'd need crossed wedges to keep things symmetric.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's not a through mortise, you can try the screw method anyway, just screwing in from the outside. Alternatively, if you can't reach the other side (say it's in a closet), you can essentially create a foxtail mortise with those aforementioned wedges, just for a dowel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2017-05-10T11:58:57.547" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5960" CreationDate="2017-05-12T17:51:25.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Put simply, it depends. 3 coats of paint can be quite a bit, depending on how you apply it. How tight are the tolerances for the holes? Are you brushing it or spraying it? If you're spraying it, you shouldn't have much problem. it would also depend on the kind of paint you're using. Latex may be a problem but acrylic might not and alcohol/shellac shouldn't have any problem. Here's what I would do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get 2 pieces of scrap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill one and paint it (vertically) and paint the other and drill it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;See which one works out better.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if you decide to drill post-paint, I would put painters tape down before you drill to mitigate some of the tear out.  If you're using a template that lays completely on the wood (not the commercial plastic one) and clamp it in place, you shouldn't have much problem.  If you're using a plastic template or a piece of peg board, you might.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="447" LastActivityDate="2017-05-12T17:51:25.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5975" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5977" CreationDate="2017-05-13T23:10:51.217" Score="1" ViewCount="358" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm repairing a poorly designed area behind the kitchen sink which pools with water. I've coated the existing timber with a waterproof membrane, and then plywood over the top, as the existing benchtop is pine. I've used  timbermate to fill the area, and was thinking I would seal the whole thing with a mixture of linseed oil and varnish. Will this be adequate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3695" LastActivityDate="2017-05-14T06:09:25.553" Title="Can timbermate be used in a wet area?" Tags="|wood|plywood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5975" CreationDate="2017-05-14T05:08:37.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to make sure you use marine ply when in wet areas. Covering up the old counter top with ply will cause issued in the future. I would remove the pine counter top, sand it, seal it and re-install it. When you use wood in the kitchen it is important to maintain it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TimberMate is waterbased so isn't going to be much of a sealer. To be honest I stopped using TimberMate a long time ago. You get better results with sanding dust and glue, in this case you would use a water proof glue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just covering the old counter top with ply will result in the old counter rotting and causing all sorts of issues for you later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3696" LastActivityDate="2017-05-14T05:08:37.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5975" CreationDate="2017-05-14T06:09:25.553" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can timbermate be used in a wet area?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, no. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I'm reading this remains permanently soluble in water so there are better things you might have used to fill the area! But if you make sure that no water can get to it you should be all right, which is why you want to be thorough in sealing off the area from water ingress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;was thinking I would seal the whole thing with a mixture of linseed oil and varnish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't bother with the linseed oil. If you want to waterproof the surface just use the varnish. Providing a water-resistant or waterproof surface coating is one of varnish's jobs, the level of protection based to some extent on the varnish type but mainly on the thickness of the coating. Adding oil to the varnish won't improve on this, just slow the drying time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case any interior oil-based varnish of reasonable quality built up into a proper surface coat should be sufficient*. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Three or more coats of full-strength varnish is usually sufficient for a good surface coating, but it won't do any harm to apply one or two more if you want to err on the side of caution. If you're thinning the varnish for application you need to increase the number of coats accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further reading from previous Q&amp;amp;As:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4355/protecting-against-water-damage/4356#4356&quot;&gt;Protecting against water damage&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*But note the water &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; find its way below the surface given the chance, so the edge of the sink insert and the rear edge of the counter must be protected with a bead of sealer such as silicone caulk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-05-14T06:09:25.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5978" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-14T15:41:07.317" Score="1" ViewCount="402" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an outdoor teak table that I want to be protected against the weather without altering the way it looks too much. I put clear spar urethane on my chairs and was unhappy because they ended up with a wet look and a different color (they were ash wood). How can I prevent this for my table?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3698" LastActivityDate="2017-05-16T02:58:14.717" Title="How can I protect my teak table while maintaining its raw and unfinished look?" Tags="|finishing|wood|furniture|finish-selection|outdoor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5980" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5988" CreationDate="2017-05-15T21:06:48.053" Score="2" ViewCount="498" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about making a proofing box for bread dough. I will need high humidity, and perhaps even a heating element to keep water vaporized. I'm wondering how something like shop-grade birch plywood would fare under those conditions, with or without a finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I may be able to finish the inside with polyurethane, since the food won't come into contact with it, but I don't want to wait a month to have the fumes finally cure out if I can find a better solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My other option is a wood frame and plexiglass body, but that won't look nearly as nice. Are there any good options for humidity resistance for an application like this? Solid oak perhaps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3702" LastActivityDate="2017-05-16T09:01:11.633" Title="Wooden bread dough proofing box -- high humidity" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5980" CreationDate="2017-05-15T23:38:24.703" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're going to use plywood I'd definitely look for a high-quality &quot;marine grade&quot; plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to use a solid wood frame go for a rot-resistant species like teak, ipe, black locust, osage orange, or cedar.  White oak is moderately rot-resistant, so that's not a bad choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also be careful what type of glue you use.  Titebond 3 or a marine epoxy will be fine in a high-humidity environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2017-05-15T23:38:24.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5982" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-16T02:27:31.527" Score="2" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my project I've ran into a issue that I am unsure how to resolve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am making legs for a stand. These legs (finished) are approx. 3&quot; thick after face-gluing three 1&quot; boards. Each board was cut using a template and 1&quot; long flush-trim bit in my router. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This resulted in many of my complex shape, cut almost perfectly. Unfortunately, each piece of this layer cake is still slightly imperfect and not totally flush after gluing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from purchasing yet another expensive specialty router bit, how can I make this &quot;thick&quot; stock totally flush once more? The picture attached shows my legs waiting to be glued, but you get the idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JDZe7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JDZe7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3142" LastActivityDate="2017-05-16T08:43:35.163" Title="Making layered thin stock (complex shape) flush?" Tags="|router|glue|cutting|trim|template|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5982" CreationDate="2017-05-16T02:40:11.927" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spindle sander, drum sander, belt sander (using both the flat and the end drum parts.) Some parts of those will require a spindle or drum, on casual examination. Should help getting the router-burn marks out as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rasps or microplanes of various shapes may also be useful. As would a plane if you're up for sharpening it, as most people these days are evidently not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a block plane you can plane the flat parts and the convex parts (to some extent.) If you want to plane the concave parts, you'll need more tools, such as a round-bottomed spokeshave. If you are dedicated to not buying any more tools, you may have to spend a long time hand-sanding with sandpaper on blocks or wrapped around dowels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3334" LastEditorUserId="3334" LastEditDate="2017-05-16T02:53:21.670" LastActivityDate="2017-05-16T02:53:21.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5978" CreationDate="2017-05-16T02:58:14.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Teak is commonly used on boats and usually finished with either varnish or &quot;teak oil&quot;. The oil need more regular maintenance than a varnish but this is easier than refinishing a varnished finish. The oil will offer a more natural finish, not appearing as a layer on top of the wood as will  varnish. You might try  bit on a scrap to see if it satisfies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2762" LastActivityDate="2017-05-16T02:58:14.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5982" CreationDate="2017-05-16T03:10:06.140" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like there is a lot of burn on the pieces. Normally means you are using blunt cutters and pushing them too hard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No issue with the finish though. You would use a sander to finish them off. I would use a belt sander with 100 or 120 grit for the straight sections and a bench sander for the curves or an orbital sander. Finish off by using a rubber sanding block for the curved sections. Turn it upside down and use the curved section of the sanding block to help retain the shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the really tight curves you can wrap some 120 grit around a piece of pipe and sand using a sawing motion. For the top of the tight curves just use the orbital sander. It is important to not push down hard on the sander. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what we would do in a factory environment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't need to buy another router bit, just send it out for sharpening. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3696" LastActivityDate="2017-05-16T03:10:06.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5965" CreationDate="2017-05-16T03:31:33.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe you will find your answer here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dezeen.com/2016/09/18/ilse-crawford-studioilse-zanat-touch-furniture-craft-carving-technique-maison-objet/?li_source=LI&amp;amp;li_medium=bottom_block_1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.dezeen.com/2016/09/18/ilse-crawford-studioilse-zanat-touch-furniture-craft-carving-technique-maison-objet/?li_source=LI&amp;amp;li_medium=bottom_block_1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Custom tools were used and a lot of time. Best way to replicate would be print out a similar patter (or copy his). Trace it onto the surface and start carving. You will be carving out the lines and leaving the raised sections. Then, if you want to speed up the process. Use a rotary tool like a Dremel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3696" LastActivityDate="2017-05-16T03:31:33.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5982" CreationDate="2017-05-16T08:43:35.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, each piece of this layer cake is still slightly imperfect and not totally flush after gluing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're using templates correctly this shouldn't really occur. Each one should be a perfect or near-perfect copy of the others. This suggests a few possible issues with the way you're routing, as does the evident scorching* and the scalloping visible in the photo when viewed at full size. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Apart from purchasing yet another expensive specialty router bit, how can I make this &quot;thick&quot; stock totally flush once more? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Abrasive paper&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can do this entirely by sanding, and entirely by hand sanding if you had to. Working manually even doing it the right way (starting with nothing finer than 80 grit) it will still take quite a bit of time, but it is doable. So if you choose to go this route settle in for a long job, put your head down and work through it. It won't seem like it while you're sanding but you will eventually get it done!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rasps and/or files&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A good rasp or a suitable file will do the gross smoothing faster, with sanding or scraping to finish off. Because you'll be forced to do some rasping/filing across the grain watch out for &lt;em&gt;spelching&lt;/em&gt; from the far edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Plane&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Planing would be the best way to smooth off most of the surfaces here because it's fastest and most efficient, plus no dust, but unfortunately it's not possible to do the whole job this way because some curves are too tight. Additionally the concave portions require a compass plane which is a speciality plane and often not cheap (vintage ones in even OK condition command high prices). The flats and convex parts though can be dealt with using any standard flat-bottomed plane. In a Comment you mention you have a block plane and that can be used for this. Make sure the iron is well honed and close the mouth up to help reduce tearout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of the plane used expect to have to sand or scrape to finish off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Combination approach&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is what I would recommend. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a plane for every surface it's suitable for, and rasps/files or sandpaper wrapped around dowels or shaped sanding blocks for all the rest. Then sand or scrape to blend the areas and unify the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*About the scorching, some woods are particularly prone to this and even with a sharp bit and good technique it is normal to expect to get some. But too much of it is seen particularly when you push the bit too hard or (as odd as it might seem) you're using too low a speed and/or moving the router too slowly. If you play around with feed rate and speed combinations you should be able to reduce it to a minimum even in a scorch-prone wood. And this sweet spot will also produce a better, more even routed surface (i.e. minimal or no scalloping).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, one of the secrets to getting a really nice surface when routing profiles is to do on last, very shallow, pass. One way of achieving this is to stick a layer of tape along the edge of your template (or the router's fence) for the main cut, then take it off for a final pass. With the tape removed the bit will skim off a thickness of wood equal to the thickness of the tape. This technique virtually guarantees a tearout-free, burn-free surface and if your bit is good and sharp it may be so good that no final sanding is required to smooth off. You may wish to sand to equalise how the surface takes stain or finish however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-05-16T08:43:35.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5980" CreationDate="2017-05-16T09:01:11.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Solid wood would be a better choice here than plywood IMO. In addition to not having to worry about the adhesive used to bond the plywood (likely urea-formaldehyde or resorcinol glue) you'll have no concerns about the surface veneer being damaged or peeling off, ever, and you won't need to use a finish to ensure durability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Solid oak perhaps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oak would probably work fine but you may want to use a close-grained wood in preference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beech, maple and birch would all be good options here if you want to go with a hardwood, and a quality pieces of softwoods such as SYP and Doug fir would be suitable as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-05-16T09:01:11.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5992" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-17T20:24:30.220" Score="0" ViewCount="1252" Body="&lt;p&gt;Purchased OPS Coventry storage bench which I love.  Now find the load limit is 250lbs. Using as dining bench and need to increase load limit for two persons at least 500lbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3709" LastActivityDate="2017-05-18T02:33:39.770" Title="How to reinforance purchased sitting bench with 250 load limit to 500 load limit" Tags="|furniture|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5992" CreationDate="2017-05-18T02:33:39.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;the only place to (inobustrusively) re-enforce that is from underneath the seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The legs are fairly thin and contoured, but most force on them will be vertical so they should be okay.&#xA;Due to the contouring you would need to shape any bracing to match - this is (probably) beyond you at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The underneath could be braced though with some 2x4's - cut to length and push hard up against the underneath of the slats (or even a bit of ply, cut to size). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ends will need to be secured to the sides of the bench - this could be done easily with a few 2&quot; or 3&quot; screws in each side, or less visibly with a brace (bit of wood) under each slat fixed to the side. The weak spot is always going to be those legs though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However..... I suggest you get your 2 x 250lb pound friends and get them to sit on the bench as it is and see how it handles it. I suspect that unless you are planning on dancing/jumping up and down on the seat, that it would support your weight fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="282" LastActivityDate="2017-05-18T02:33:39.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5540" CreationDate="2017-05-18T02:43:16.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably well late (given the question is from february), but if you desperately needed to plane a disk that size down, you can do it reasonably safely and cleanly with a planer . . . it just takes a bit of set up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a sheet of MDF or ply - at least two feet long and a few&#xA;    inches wider than your disk. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fix the disk to the centre of the sheet of MDF using either&#xA;    double-sided tape, carpet tape or hot glue. Make sure this is stuck down well - particularly the front and back edges. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fix one or two&#xA;(preferably two) 1&quot;x24&quot; long sacrificial rails to&#xA;    the sheet of MDF using tape/hot glue. These rails should be slightly&#xA;    thicker than the the disk you are trying to plane.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add some bracing at the front/back of the disk using&#xA;    some smaller scraps of wood + tape. ( optional) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plane as per usual. The sacrificial rails will prevent any snipe&#xA;    and the 24&quot; length will allow you to pass the short disk through the&#xA;    planer reasonably safely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take super light passes and make sure the disk is secured well. I would probably lean towards not using a planer for this operation, but if I had to, the above process should make it (reasonably) safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="282" LastEditorUserId="282" LastEditDate="2017-05-18T21:48:25.213" LastActivityDate="2017-05-18T21:48:25.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5995" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5996" CreationDate="2017-05-18T03:46:04.840" Score="4" ViewCount="22932" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm concerned about the health risks of using the cedar as indoor furniture. Had no idea about the toxicity of cedar before making a bed with my friend out of cedar from Home Depot. Apparently the fumes/oil are bad for you long term? Is there anything I can do to protect ourselves from this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did put one coat of wipe on Danish fruitwood oil on the bed, but thats about it. I also realised that the planks that the mattress sits on are also cedar and these were NOT sealed with anything, not even the danish oil. Should I perhaps seal those to be on the safe side. Its a very small bedroom with not much ventilation, so I want to be safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, I also read that using Danish oil on cedar anyway is a bad idea as doesn't fully cure? Can someone advise on the impact of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does it ultimately mean if it does not fully cure. What impacts does that have? I've had the bed fully done and in use for about 7 months now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a lovely bed, but I want to ensure I treat it properly to ensure any offgassing does not cause health concerns, we plan to have this bed a long time if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So any suggestions on what I can do to make this safer, would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 22/May/2017:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bedhead is about 6ft high, which is basically panelling almost most of one side of the bedroom, as its a small bedroom. So theres a lot of Cedar in this small room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The concern I had was around the plicatic acid contained in the Cedar. It also depends what Cedar, I know Western and Eastern are different. Mine was from Home Depot in BC, which I would assume is Western Cedar, as well, we’re in Western Canada, is that a good assumption? :P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And WRC is one to contain a lot of this acid…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m also new to Canada (coming from the UK) and Cedar is something I had not yet worked with before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the research was from google, I’ll include a few below, but it also includes the wood database page that someone else had quoted above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m still however wondering if its worth adding an extra coat of ‘something’ as Cedar is traditionally used outdoor rather than indoor. Someone suggested Tung oil to me today, any thoughts on that? I’m hoping I can do something that does not involve having to do it outside, as all I have is a balcony in my apartment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/wood-ar...s-and-toxicity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.wood-database.com/wood-ar...s-and-toxicity&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...r-really-toxic&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...r-really-toxic&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/answer...dar-Poisonous/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.instructables.com/answer...dar-Poisonous/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per the 2nd link, Australian Red Cedar, has been banned as a furniture making timber, at the Canberra School of the Arts, in their Fine Furniture Workshop, as Aussie Red is carcinogenic. Not sure about whatever Cedar is over in Canada.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, thanks for all your comments. I really appreciate it and the efforts that you have gone to to look it up. My girlfriend will be moving in soon, and I want to make sure its all good to go. Anything I can do before then to finish off the bed is what is driving me to look into all this right now. From the googling, it has been shown dust, shavings or the wood can aggravate or even cause breathing problems, so I naturally came here to see what others more experienced than me thought about it, cos I don’t want to end up causing Asthma or whatever breathing issues for me and my girlfriend. That wood database even mentioned a cancer in relation to Cedar, so it leaves me a bit clueless as what to think of the next step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3013" LastEditorUserId="3013" LastEditDate="2017-05-23T02:20:18.550" LastActivityDate="2022-03-22T22:29:52.660" Title="Is cedar dangerous for your health when used in indoor furniture?" Tags="|wood|furniture|toxicity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5995" CreationDate="2017-05-18T15:06:24.537" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-allergies-and-toxicity/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wood-allergy database&lt;/a&gt;. Two main things about wood allergens are stated:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All inhaled wood dust is hazardous to your long-term health. This chart simply lists specific woods that can aggravate symptoms through allergic reactions, or woods that are outright toxic in and of themselves. However, all woods produce fine dust when worked, which in turn can damage your lungs and cause a number of other adverse health reactions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...very few woods are actually toxic in and of themselves. But what a great number of woods do have the potential to do is cause allergic reactions in sensitive individuals. This risk for finished wood projects is greatly lessened (but not eliminated) with the application of a food-safe finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should also be pointed out that the product you're using to finish the wood could potentially cause reactions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ETA (by @mmathis): As for the cedar mentioned in the question, the database lists most species of cedar as skin / respiratory irritants, with a potency of 2-3 (out of 4) on their scale. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3711" LastEditorUserId="2524" LastEditDate="2017-05-19T17:02:45.603" LastActivityDate="2017-05-19T17:02:45.603" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5997" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-19T18:29:03.127" Score="1" ViewCount="900" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in the process of building a traditional 1920s America window frame with only hand tools and was wondering if someone could explain the basic process by which the pieces are cut, joined, and styled (moulding plane?). Are there any good classic books on this kind of joinery?  Would especially be interested in materials from that era or earlier.  Thanks, and let me know if I can provide any more detail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3638" LastActivityDate="2017-05-21T17:08:09.770" Title="How to build a window frame with hand tools?" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5998" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5999" CreationDate="2017-05-20T23:03:06.787" Score="7" ViewCount="1106" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a bunch of free wood today, as in 6 rough quarter-sawn(!) red oak boards, 2&quot; x 12&quot; x 9'. For free. (Yay!) The boards were stickered about a year ago. (The largest piece was 38&quot; x 4&quot; x 13'. It is becoming a bar top, I think.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I'm making a table, and the legs and a few other pieces are 3.75&quot; square. I could make all of the 4x4 pieces I need from two of the 12&quot; boards with plenty to spare. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any problem or surprise waiting for me if I laminate the boards in this way? If laminating is the proper term when dealing with thick stock in this way. My plan is to run the boards trough the planer to get a flat side, rip it to the desired width - 3 pieces per big board - and glue the flat sides together. After the glue has set, run the finished board back through the planer, cut to length and move on with construction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts? Is this the right approach? There were some boards of the right size, but they were already spoken for. And I'd rather not spend another $300 on lumber. Because I'm cheap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/saUHG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/saUHG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3096" LastEditorUserId="3096" LastEditDate="2018-06-28T14:47:59.180" LastActivityDate="2018-06-28T14:47:59.180" Title="Laminating 2&quot; red oak to make 4x4s?" Tags="|technique|glue|laminating|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5998" CreationDate="2017-05-21T10:44:11.707" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there any problem or surprise waiting for me if I laminate the boards in this way? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not if you glue them together properly, no. Properly here means well-jointed faces on both pieces (flat and smooth), ample glue, heavy clamp pressure. Also highly advisable to work the wood just prior to the glue-up as fresh surfaces glue much better than old surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's actually standard practice to make up beefier material from thinner stock when the thicker stuff is unobtainable, and as mentioned in a few previous Answers when you do this what you end up with tends to be stronger and more stable than if you'd used a single piece (not that it matters for table legs of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the wood is flat-sawn, with curving grain visible on the board ends, it's a good idea to glue two pieces together so that the curves oppose. So either bark side in or out in both cases. If the wood is rift-sawn or quarter-sawn, with vertical or nearly vertical grain on the ends, then it doesn't matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-05-21T10:44:11.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6000" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6002" CreationDate="2017-05-21T14:41:19.790" Score="4" ViewCount="1523" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using an oak effect Danish oil and have applied it to a couple of test pieces of pine, one with 3 coats with 30 mins between coats and one with a single coat, and left overnight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The single coat looks lighter and better to me. All advice I read says to apply 3-4 coats, or until the wood stops absorbing. Would it be okay to leave as a single coat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3721" LastActivityDate="2017-05-21T19:33:45.317" Title="Single coat of coloured Danish oil?" Tags="|finishing|oiling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6000" CreationDate="2017-05-21T19:33:45.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is tricky as a coloured version of a finish is doing two jobs at the same time, providing colour wood and adding protection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For many finishes three coats is considered the minimum number to provide good protection. But when it comes to colouring the wood you should of course stop when you've gotten the colour you want. Normally that's not a problem as you then add protection on top of the colouring agent (often dye or stain) in the form of a clear finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now how tough the surface of wood needs to be varies a great deal. Many things don't need finish at all, others do need something or they'll get stained or marked from use (scratches, dings, staining from water and other liquids).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So depending on what the application here is you can safely stop after just the one coat, but if the item needs more than minimal protection it would be best to apply further finish. The two leading options are a regular version of &quot;Danish oil&quot; or a varnish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either of the above will slightly alter the colour of the wood but it shouldn't be enough to be a problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-05-21T19:33:45.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6003" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-23T01:57:49.630" Score="3" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made a crucifix for my partner, and am down to finishing it. (It's about nine inches, made to be hung on a wall.) It is maple, padauk and cherry. The corpus will either be copper or vermeil, if that's relevant. It has a couple coats of Danish oil on it (he likes the look), but is there a feeling that it needs a further finish - beeswax or the like?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose my question really is: for a decorative piece that won't see much traffic, is a finish beyond Danish oil necessary or recommended?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3388" LastEditorUserId="3388" LastEditDate="2017-05-23T02:44:04.987" LastActivityDate="2017-05-23T07:12:01.083" Title="Finishing on a crucifix" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6003" CreationDate="2017-05-23T07:12:01.083" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nothing else is needed here. You can choose to add something extra, but that would mostly be about surface finish and not about adding any needed further protection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're happy with the look of the piece as-is after three coats then you can comfortably stop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the product literature or labelling might already make plain, &quot;Danish oil&quot; is meant to be a standalone finish so this would also be true for many things that do see handling or use. Even though finishes sold by this name do vary in qualities from brand to brand broadly speaking the level of protection they provide is adequate or better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-05-23T07:12:01.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6006" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6007" CreationDate="2017-05-24T00:50:02.723" Score="4" ViewCount="947" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking into creating a jewelry box for a ring and I am trying to decide on which wood to use. I am stuck between either using Wenge or Purpleheart, I have heard that Wenge can cause an allergic reaction akin to poison ivy but I haven't heard anything about Purpleheart. I am also wondering which wood would be easier to work with and which will finish better, I am trying to achieve a very dark finish. Any pro's and con's of working with each wood? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I am a beginner and really only have a jigsaw and hand tools for working with the wood.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3728" LastActivityDate="2017-05-24T07:38:40.740" Title="Working with Wenge or Purpleheart" Tags="|safety|wood-selection|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6006" CreationDate="2017-05-24T07:38:40.740" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have heard that Wenge can cause an allergic reaction akin to poison ivy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure what you read or where, but you wouldn't expect this upon first exposure. This kind of reaction would be for people with either a built up sensitivity to wenge or with an existing sensitivity. It's little to worry about unless you fall into either of these two camps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do want to take precautions about the wenge dust however. Breathing protection is considered a must, and given it is a known irritant I would urge you to be paranoid about it and wear at least a good dust mask &lt;em&gt;every time&lt;/em&gt; you work the wood, even if it's just for a couple of minutes. This would be most particularly when using power tools and when sanding. Worth carefully cleaning up the dust afterwards too (while still wearing the dust mask).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am also wondering which wood would be easier to work with &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well purpleheart is significantly harder than wenge, and many people find it difficult to work with as a result&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; but it depends on how you intend to work it and the sharpness of your edges how much difficulty you can expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're used to working with harder woods you should have few surprises. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're used to working in pine however their hardness might come as a bit of a shock! They'll also be much more splintery than you're used to. Sharp edges are a must and expect jobs to take longer. You may even find you need to stop more frequently to hone edges due to their blunting effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;and which will finish better&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's really up to you more than anything. They're both hard, dense hardwoods so inherently will finish well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose the real issue in either case is whether the open grain structure is something undesirable for the piece in question, but that's easily tackled with grain filler so warnings about this making finishing difficulty are basically an irrelevance IMO — grain fill, problem solved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of grain filling there are users of both wenge and purpleheart who are more than happy with the way they look after they've finished them and if they can do it it's likely you can too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am trying to achieve a very dark finish&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's all you require then there's no real need to use either of these woods&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. A dark colour, all the way to black, can be achieved on any wood with staining and/or the use of a coloured overcoat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could make the job a lot easier for yourself by using something softer and simply colouring it dark. Hard maple/sugar maple seems like a good candidate, as would black walnut, but you could even start with poplar if it's not too soft for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; FWIW I've seen the opinion expressed that &quot;it's not a beginner wood&quot;) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; If you want to push yourself and have a bit of a challenge then by all means use either wenge or purpleheart for this, but if that's not one of the things you're looking for here then save yourself some hassle and pick something softer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-05-24T07:38:40.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6008" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6009" CreationDate="2017-05-24T23:03:28.300" Score="4" ViewCount="2028" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m looking to purchase a circular saw and I’ve narrowed it down to two,&#xA;A Ryobi that is 1250w that spins at 5000 rpm and a Bosch saw that is 1400w that spins at 5500rpm,&#xA;The question I am asking is does the extra 500 rpm make that much of a difference for the extra cost? And does anybody have experience with these two brands of saw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3719" LastActivityDate="2017-05-26T17:16:13.753" Title="5000rpm vs 5500rpm circular saw" Tags="|circular-saw|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ClosedDate="2017-05-26T15:46:27.647" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6008" CreationDate="2017-05-24T23:18:42.183" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you going to notice the difference between a saw running at 5000 rpm and one running at 5500rpm?  No, probably not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you going to notice 1250 watts vs 1400 watts?  Again, probably not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you are going to notice is if the blade is sharp, if the fence is square to the blade, how accurate the bevel adjustment is, etc.  All of these types of things are likely to be better in a Bosch than in a Ryobi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2017-05-24T23:18:42.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="231" CreationDate="2017-05-25T15:14:34.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;90% of my finishing jobs I use the random orbital sander as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only time I use the &lt;a href=&quot;https://toolsfirst.com/orbital-vs-belt-vs-finishing-sanders/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;belt sander vs the orbital sander&lt;/a&gt; is when i need to either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove a LOT of wood really quickly&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Cleaning large pieces of wood or&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Flattening large pieces&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3737" LastActivityDate="2017-05-25T15:14:34.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6008" CreationDate="2017-05-25T22:24:43.893" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience with Ryobi tools that they are not for the professional or frequent user. I have worked as a technician using Ryobi tools for several years and found the shaft bearings on the drills failed after a couple years, the parts that needed to be made of tough but not hardened steel tended to wear out faster than the guys with Bosch, DeWalt, or most of the higher end brands. I'd get the Bosch because it will wear longer and maintain it's accuracy far longer than the Ryobi. I have since changed all my Ryobi power tools for Ridgid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, to directly answer the question. Aside from the quality and repeatability of cuts is when (and it will happen) you are making a careful set of cuts and you hit the unexpected sap laden knot in the wood. The Ryobi will be more likely to slow and want to get away from you than the stronger Bosch. It may seem strange but the more powerful machines are safer than the lesser ones because they are more likely to continue cutting without the blade wanting to twist or bind. Sudden changes in blade speed can cause a loss of control. Spend the money on quality equipment and you will be safer and have them far longer. Ultimately, this makes the expensive stuff cost less in the long run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3739" LastActivityDate="2017-05-25T22:24:43.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6012" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6016" CreationDate="2017-05-26T07:42:03.090" Score="3" ViewCount="328" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for some kind of tool which I can use to prick through a bamboo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be more specific, bamboo is hollow inside. There is just some kind of plates &quot;the nodes&quot; which is connecting the inside. I want to prick these nodes, so the bamboo is hollow in full.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bamboo I work with is 1 meter long. So the tool would need to be at least 50cm long. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you name any tools which could be used for that? Maybe there is even one existing which I don't know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3742" LastActivityDate="2017-05-26T11:14:53.007" Title="Tool recommendation to prick bamboo nodes" Tags="|hand-tools|tool-selection|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6008" CreationDate="2017-05-26T09:42:55.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The direct answer is no. However, you might want to consider other  wider factors:  My experience as a heavyweight diy-er and occasional work with trades makes me avoid ryobi. If I was buying cheap I'd go for erbauer, wickes or even lidl over ryobi. They'll cost you less &amp;amp; will be OK for occasional diy use. If you want better than that, the Bosch will be much better built &amp;amp; has been covered above. Note that Bosch green are the consumer models &amp;amp; blue are trade rated ones. The green are still well-regarded &amp;amp; IMO better than ryobi by some margin.You pays yer money...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1572" LastEditorUserId="1572" LastEditDate="2017-05-26T17:16:13.753" LastActivityDate="2017-05-26T17:16:13.753" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6014" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6015" CreationDate="2017-05-26T10:44:00.520" Score="3" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a large oak chest of drawers I got a pretty good deal on a long time ago. But one of the drawers is always getting stuck, it slips off the side of the runner shown below. It then needs lifting and moving to the side to remount.&#xA;I've figured out that the reason for this is two-fold:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly the drawer isn't quite as wide as the other drawers in the unit (larger gap at the side of the drawer and the frame. Maybe by 1-2mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly the runner on this side isn't as wide as the other side, by maybe 3mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can switch the drawers around but its still not quite right. I want to try and do something about it and it looks as though I have two options. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can fix another piece of wood onto the runner on the outside, to ensure the drawer doesn't fall off the runner but I'm concerned that the drawer won't move smoothly and that by doing that I could weaken the runner. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The second option would be to remove the runner, put some wood in between the runner and its mounting on the frame to push the runner out towards the drawer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any pros or cons to those or any alternative ways to do this? I'm not an expert carpenter but I'm familiar with screwdrivers and saws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xEr59.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xEr59.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YREMK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YREMK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3744" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2017-05-26T17:07:02.793" LastActivityDate="2017-05-26T17:07:02.793" Title="Extending oak drawer runners" Tags="|wood-repair|drawer-construction|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6014" CreationDate="2017-05-26T11:14:07.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like the runner is screwed into the frame. In this case unscrewing it and adding spacers between the runner and the frame, then screwing back should provide a solution. You should probably put the spacer behind the blocks the runner is screwed to, and not between the runner and those blocks (to get more stability).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2017-05-26T11:14:07.613" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6012" CreationDate="2017-05-26T11:14:53.007" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The people over at Bamboocraft.net seem to say that the best way is to get a piece of metal rod (rebar will do) and simply bash through. If it's hard to do, you can also heat the rod up in a fire and it will supposedly burn through very easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll want a rod/bar which is a touch thinner than the inside diameter of the bamboo cane so that you don't split your cane while doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relevant link here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bamboocraft.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2639&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.bamboocraft.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2639&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2017-05-26T11:14:53.007" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6017" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-26T14:30:14.463" Score="0" ViewCount="380" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was at the store the other day and they had a different belt available. It was a little more expensive. And instead of having tape on the back like I am used to on this new one they removed a good 1/2&quot; of sand then glued it underneath the other end. There was a little gap between where the sand was removed to the other end. So I would like to know what other joints are used for making sanding belts and what the purpose is for doing that joint. Possible benefits from a specific joint? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2017-05-26T17:11:59.983" LastActivityDate="2018-03-19T15:39:30.970" Title="Belt sanding belt joints" Tags="|power-tools|sanding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6018" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-27T01:46:11.053" Score="3" ViewCount="11724" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased an old wine barrel which was extremely faded in color. I bought Oak stain and started to stain it but instead of coming out the oak color it almost looks black and I don't know why. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First question is why would this happen, second question is how could I have prevented this from happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3748" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2017-05-27T06:53:09.413" LastActivityDate="2019-02-03T03:39:12.727" Title="Problem staining an oak barrel" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6018" CreationDate="2017-05-27T02:53:44.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you more than likely are having issue because of the fact the wood is old. The outer-side might have been coated with something back when it was made to preserve the wine. Not sure for certain but it makes some sense to me. But these are the steps to making this barrel look great again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Since the wood is dark and will not stain you need to sand* the outer surface until the wood looks darn near new. Start with a low grit, like 80 (I might do 40 depending on how bad it is). And work up to 120/150. And if you want 180/220. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Go ahead and stain. Now that the old stuff is removed go ahead and start staining. I take a old shirt and cut it into pieces and apply 1-2 coats. There are other methods but that is my favorite. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) A great way of protecting the wood (and stain) from water and other damage would be a protective coat like polyurethane (I use it all the time). I would use Oil-based because it is water resistant (oil does not mix with water) but will give a amber tint to the wood/stain. There is also water-based. I think I am going to make a quick pro con of the too off the top of my head. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oil-based&lt;/strong&gt; - Good&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strong, 3 coats, lasts long&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oil-based&lt;/strong&gt; - Bad&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Amber tint, fumes are smelly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Water-based&lt;/strong&gt; - Good&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quick drying, easy clean up, little tinting&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Water-based&lt;/strong&gt; - bad&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5 coats, Don't think it is water-resistant, not as strong&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are more to the polyurethane world but that should give a idea as to what to expect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really do not think it could be any simpler. But of course if I am off say something in the comments and I will gladly correct myself. I hope this helps you. Good luck on your project!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*If you do not have a sander I would get one. A orbital sander is the a good sander to start with. Removes more than a 1/4 sheet sander but less than a belt sander. So Unless you like hand sanding, any cheap sander I would get to save time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2017-05-27T02:53:44.163" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6021" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6025" CreationDate="2017-05-27T19:33:32.653" Score="2" ViewCount="260" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a chess-board style end-grain cutting board. I only have a bandsaw, a Jointer and a Planer. The first step is easy: I cut strips of two wood species and joint and plane them so they are 40mmx40mm. I then glue them together to get a striped board. Now I need to crosscut that into strips again (each strip is then striped).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the tutorials I found use a table saw for this, which creates a glueable surface. I don't have that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can do these cuts on the bandsaw, but after that, the strips need to be planed to create a gluable surface. I cannot just run them through the planer lengthwise, because that would be across the grain. I also cannot run them through the planer width-wise as they are too short (40mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I maybe clamp these strips together and run them through the planer as one piece? With F-Style clamps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="989" LastActivityDate="2017-05-30T19:03:12.497" Title="Using a Planer on wide but short stock" Tags="|thickness-planer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6022" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6023" CreationDate="2017-05-28T09:37:35.777" Score="8" ViewCount="4887" Body="&lt;p&gt;TL;DR&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I connect the MDF sheets on the corners (in left-hand-side picture), so they align nicely, and there's no gap? As you can see in the sketch, the angles are not always multiples of 45 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Backstory:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One day I got bored, and wanted to play some Pac-Man. Playing it on PC didn't really feel right, so I decided to buy an arcade cabinet. After checking the prices on eBay, I made the best decision... &quot;$1,500 for a cabinet? I can build this myself!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Needless to say, it's a great idea for someone with no prior woodworking experience...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I am moving forward quite nicely, but I've stumbled upon a problem for which I can't seem to find a solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering how I can connect MDF sheets together, so that there isn't be a gap between them - basically, how can I cut them at an angle (and what tools would you recommend for that purpose?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the image I am attaching, you can see my rough sketch of arcade cabinet on the left. How am I to connect the top sheet and back sheet together? They join at a slight angle, leaving a visible corner gap, and I want to achieve the result on the right, where the joined pieces blend together seamlessly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eFd0B.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eFd0B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;MDF corner joining&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3754" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2018-10-18T19:24:00.470" LastActivityDate="2018-10-18T19:24:00.470" Title="Connecting the MDF corners, so there's no gap" Tags="|joinery|mdf|cabinetry|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6022" CreationDate="2017-05-28T14:16:43.340" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you want a &lt;em&gt;mitered corner&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will want to find the overall angle of the piece in relation to the vertical one. Just a guess but it looks like it is 15-20 degrees above horizontal level from the corner. Lets go with 20°. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The overall angle is 90 from the vertical piece to the level + our 20 above for a 110 degree inside angle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means the outside is (360-110=) 250. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you want a matching miter on both pieces so they line up, which means you will put half of the angle on each piece so they add up to 20.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can come at this two ways, since the line of the angle through our imaginary 360° circle goes through both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can take 110/2=55, but you aren't cutting your piece on end so that's the wrong plane. You don't want 55, you want 90-55=35°&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, 250/2=125-90=35°&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, you want a 35° angle on your saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a table saw or skill/circular saw you can set the angle to 35 and cut the edge of both pieces. They will come together at our 20°.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(You can also think of it that if you started with a square 90° corner you would have two 45° miters, but you want to raise it 20, so you take 10 off of both. That may help you visualize it)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This process will work for any of your corners and is easy for any corner 90° or more. Sharp corners with inside angles less than 90 will not be possible with saw a that only miter up to 45°.&#xA;Also note, this is only for single angle miters. Pieces that come together with angles on two planes (ex. crown moulding) require additional calculation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastEditorUserId="1499" LastEditDate="2017-05-28T14:23:26.220" LastActivityDate="2017-05-28T14:23:26.220" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6022" CreationDate="2017-05-28T14:32:10.117" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Welcome to Wood Working Stack exchange. I would get a table saw for this cutting. It will allow you to cut any angle from 0* (90*) to 45*. You need to find the angle(s) in which you have to cut. It is not necessarily going to be 30* and 30* to get the angle you need. You may have to use two different angles. When you find the angles I recommend that you take another piece of wood and cut the angle used onto that piece. It can be scrap. It will serve two purposes. 1) Use it again to re-position the blade. 2) Test piece. All ways good to double check that your getting getting what you want. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To glue I would try the tape method to glue your project together. With the two pieces next to each other lay the inside part of the board on the table, with the back facing towards you. Take some good tape and put strips connecting the two pieces together. Flip the board over and glue the one side (I only do one side, others do both) and find a way to clamp the pieces together. The tape will help with holding the board were you want it. It does not necessarily need to be glued on hard. Of everything goes right then you got what you need. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is another way to go about this project. Make the side piece. I would use a rabbet router bit to make a groove on the top and back. To help along the boards. You will still need to make the top and back with the right angles. But this time don't worry about gluing the back and top (as much). Glue the top piece to the side (make sure 90 with a square). Then take the back and line the back with the tops angle, also glue that and the back to the side at the same time. That should get you a nice turn out as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: You don't necessarily need a table saw. A circular saw would work but I highly recommend to use a straight edge to run the saw against to ensure a straight cut. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So there is the two things I thought you could. Good luck with the project!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2018-10-12T05:38:53.897" LastActivityDate="2018-10-12T05:38:53.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6021" CreationDate="2017-05-28T14:36:59.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I understand correctly, you are missing a step. You should plane the &quot;striped&quot; board after the first glue-up but before the final round of saw cuts. The top and bottom of the striped board will form the glue surfaces after making the final cut and tipping each final striped strip onto its side to orient the end grain facing toward what will ultimately be the top and bottom of the cutting board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2017-05-28T14:47:35.633" LastActivityDate="2017-05-28T14:47:35.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6022" CreationDate="2017-05-28T16:13:33.337" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other answers are great from a technical standpoint, but they overlook the much simpler solutions which are actually used on mass-produced arcade cabinets. If you look at commercially-produced arcade cabinets, you will find that the construction methods are much simpler than you might expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, the TMNT &quot;Turtles in Time&quot; cabinet that is disassembled in my garage has a recessed top which is captured with dadoes in both sides. Another design might use cleats around the interior perimeter, allowing you to simply drop the top into a recessed area and optionally screw it down. You don't need to miter anything for an exact fit, because nobody will see it if you build it right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One not-so-obvious woodworking skill is knowing when appearance matters, and in this case it doesn't because the back of an arcade cabinet is not really meant to be seen, and the particular joint you are concerned about can be easily hidden by extending the sides above the top of the cabinet, as is the case on commercially-produced arcade cabinets. You could also hide it with some tape or trim. The point is, you can tweak your design to hide any eyesores, allowing you to save yourself a lot of work and frustration by using simpler construction methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2017-05-28T16:25:12.640" LastActivityDate="2017-05-28T16:25:12.640" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6027" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-27T23:40:02.640" Score="4" ViewCount="1826" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uRraU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image shows hemispherical holes cut into wood, what tool can I use to do that? I could have bought that mancala game from toysrus but I need holes a bit deeper and wider to hold more stuff. Also I need 8 or 9 on each side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Prasad" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2017-05-29T06:58:09.637" LastActivityDate="2017-05-29T06:58:09.637" Title="Cutting 2&quot; (50mm) hemispheres into wood" Tags="|router|router-bit|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6027" CreationDate="2017-05-27T23:53:22.627" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A router would be the right tool. Looks like a round nose bit would made those plunge cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3759" OwnerDisplayName="Ghost" LastActivityDate="2017-05-27T23:53:22.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6027" CreationDate="2017-05-27T23:57:24.050" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 2&quot; ball end router bit, and a plunge router with adequate power to run it, and which can run slowly enough to run it safely (large diameter bits must not spin too fast.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or (these days) a CNC router with a considerably smaller bit (round-nose would still be best for the end result) programmed to go around in circles and cut the shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For only a few, possibly a 2&quot; spade bit reground to round-nose and used in a drill press.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more capacious holes without sharp bottom corners, but not hemispherical, a tray bit in a router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z8rlKl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z8rlKl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2&amp;quot;ball-end bit&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3334" OwnerDisplayName="Ecnerwal" LastActivityDate="2017-05-28T00:04:11.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6030" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6033" CreationDate="2017-05-30T00:05:42.650" Score="4" ViewCount="8599" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to create a smooth spherical depression in wood that, the depression is 1.75in in diameter and 0.5in deep. I have access to a drill press, fixed router, and some chisels but I am not sure about the best way to go about achieving this depression in the wood (I am working with cherry) any suggestions about how to achieve this? The shape I am hoping to achieve is attached in the link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jtItN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jtItN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QRXmR.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QRXmR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QRXmR.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lmy4l.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lmy4l.png&quot; alt=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QRXmR.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pJNvr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pJNvr.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3728" LastEditorUserId="3728" LastEditDate="2017-05-30T20:59:48.943" LastActivityDate="2020-07-15T21:22:27.463" Title="Cutting a spherical depression in wood" Tags="|router|carving|drill|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6031" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-30T10:43:37.600" Score="4" ViewCount="4826" Body="&lt;p&gt;I attempted my first ever woodworking project this weekend and thought it was going smoothly until I realized I was supposed to let the minwax oil based stain dry for 4-6 hours between coats. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had read the first steps in the directions that said to apply, wait 15 mins, wipe off excess and then immediately repeated with coat #2 and shortly after with the minwax polyurethane as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now it's sat over night and an oily residue that can be wiped off easily has come to the surface in several spots. This is what made me re-read the directions and realize my HUGE mistake :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I just let it continue to sit? Should I wipe it off? How do I correct this?! It's a huge farmhouse table built out of common board, whitewood &amp;amp; douglas fir. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!!! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3757" LastActivityDate="2017-05-30T14:37:13.193" Title="Didn't let wood dry between coats of stain &amp; poly. How to correct?" Tags="|staining|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6031" CreationDate="2017-05-30T12:30:06.850" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;your best bet for most even tone is to wipe off as much as possible using paint thinner/mineral spirits. Evaluate what things look like once the solvent you used has dried. If the color looks even/good, wait for the actual stain oils to dry, then apply the top coat of poly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it doesn't look good, wait for what's on there to get good and dry, then sand it back to clear wood again and start over. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: if there is a lot of semi-dry poly residue, scraping off the poly is more efficient than waiting for all of it to dry then sanding. However, scraping softwoods doesn't tend to work well, so once you're through the poly layer I'd finish sand as you did before. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a note, stain isn't mandatory (neither is finish for that matter, although it's generally greatly recommended). I mention it because a lot of beginners assume all wood has to be stained.. the staining is for color only, and is absolutely optional and your preference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastEditorUserId="358" LastEditDate="2017-05-30T14:37:13.193" LastActivityDate="2017-05-30T14:37:13.193" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6030" CreationDate="2017-05-30T16:49:07.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to create this with the tools you mentioned you'll need a &quot;core box&quot; bit.  This is a plunging router bit with a spherical profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To determine the size we'll need to determine the radius using the formula:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;r = h/2 + w^2/8h&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plugging in h = 1/2 and w = 1 3/4 we get an answer of 1 1/64&quot;.  Since core box bits are typically sold by diameter you'll need a 2 1/32&quot; bit.  If you're ok with something close you could probably use a 2&quot; bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be VERY careful with this operation, though.  Plunging a 2&quot; bit can be quite dangerous.  Make sure that your workpiece is well secured and you have your router very stable.  Honestly I wouldn't personally attempt this operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2017-05-30T17:19:39.253" LastActivityDate="2017-05-30T17:19:39.253" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6021" CreationDate="2017-05-30T19:03:12.497" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it would be dangerous for you to run multiple, clamped, boards, that are too short for an electric thickness planer, through that planer.  I could be wrong, but you probably have to use a hand plane now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3762" LastActivityDate="2017-05-30T19:03:12.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6035" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6036" CreationDate="2017-05-30T21:01:06.220" Score="5" ViewCount="701" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been looking at buying a Black &amp;amp; Decker Mouse sander which is 55W.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Will it be enough for general use such as sanding wood edges?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3109" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2017-06-02T08:50:13.150" LastActivityDate="2017-06-02T08:50:13.150" Title="Is 55W enough for a sander?" Tags="|sander|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6035" CreationDate="2017-05-30T22:31:59.713" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on what you're doing. Those mouse detail sanders are for getting into corners and doing light-duty work. I would not call it a &quot;general use&quot; sander unless you have a lot of time to kill and enjoy having your hand go numb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For sanding edges, it may not be much more efficient than hand sanding. If you are sanding a small end table, it will take a while but you can do it with a mouse sander. If you need to remove a lot of material, you would be better off with a belt sander or an aggressive orbital or random orbit sander, and if you need to sand a large tabletop and progress through finer and finer grits for a nice finish, you should consider a random orbit sander with a dust port that you can connect to a shop vacuum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that there are many other features which have direct practical implications when it comes to sanders, such as dust removal, stroke length, ergonomics, and size of pad or belt. I've never even considered the wattage when purchasing of a handheld sander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2017-05-30T22:31:59.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6037" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6038" CreationDate="2017-06-01T03:09:36.750" Score="2" ViewCount="3238" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a house and decided to remove the carpet from the stairs and install hardwood instead. To save money, I decided to buy unfinished stair treads and risers and to finish them myself. This is my first time with woodworking, so please bear with me here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After researching on the web, I bought sanding paper, oil-based stains and polyurethane, and started working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first and perhaps only problem is that despite sanding for a long time with an ROS, the wood just does not seem smooth. The density of the wood seems unequal and I can see small gaps along the grain in some areas. Those areas are smooth to the touch when I run my hand along the grain, but not across the grain. See below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QBiFY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QBiFY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Linear gaps along the grain.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Giving up on sanding, I decided to apply stain on the surface. The areas with gaps absorb more stain, and it actually creates a good-looking color effect. However, we can clearly see that the darker areas are &quot;rougher&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cu6O7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cu6O7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Result after stain application&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Applying 2 coats of oil-based poly over this does not really fix the problem. It looks like light reflects differently on the darker areas and it doesn't look very good when placed under the light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is all of this normal? Is it because of bad wood quality? Did I just not sand enough? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: the wood used is a smaller piece just for testing purposes prior to finishing the actual stair treads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3733" LastEditorUserId="3733" LastEditDate="2017-06-01T03:15:57.950" LastActivityDate="2017-06-01T08:04:25.267" Title="Stair treads do not look smooth after sanding and finishing" Tags="|finishing|sanding|staining|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6037" CreationDate="2017-06-01T03:24:42.387" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The density of the wood seems unequal and I can see small gaps along the grain in some areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wood in your pictures appears to be oak and the texture in the grain is common in that wood. I assume that you began with a course sandpaper 80-100 grit +/- to remove an major dents or impressions in the wood and proceeded to finer grits such as 150 an finally 220. The root cause of the tiny gaps in the wood is due to the cellular structure of the wood.  Annual growth of the tree adds less dense fiber in the spring and denser material later in the year.  That is why the stain is expressed lighter and darker across the board.  More stain is absorbed into the cellular structure in the less dense areas with much less absorption where the grain is tighter.  This is common in oak and the variation in darkness with the stain is one of its appealing features.  If you apply several coats of finish the varnish/poly will bridge the gaps and provide  good finish appearance.  If you take a close look at other installations you will probably find similar conditions.  I suggest you finish a test piece first to satisfy yourself that the overall result is acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2017-06-01T03:24:42.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6039" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6040" CreationDate="2017-06-01T04:36:16.300" Score="5" ViewCount="1443" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a set of amateur under-bed &quot;drawers&quot; from scrap. Nothing fancy, just re-using materials from old closet. This is my first project of such scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are intended to be 3 quite large drawers, 130 x 60 x 18cm on the inside. Walls are going to be made from veneered particle board (16mm thick), intended to be held together by 2 or 3 confirmat screws on each side. Bottoms are planned to be made from 3mm thick hardboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do a I make bottom rigid enough in the case of such large drawers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far my plan is to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add 2 narrow crossbeams on the bottom (something around 60 x 5 cm), effectively splitting large 130 x 60cm area into 3 smaller ones - 40 x 60 cm. Having crossbeams pop up from the bottom by 1cm does not worry me that much.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;     |----------------------|&#xA;rear |      ||      ||      |  front&#xA;     |      ||      ||      |&#xA;     |----------------------|&#xA;           crossbeams&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add grooves along all the sides and crossbeams (using router with 4mm bit) and slide hardboard into them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;|     |&#xA;|    _|&#xA;|   |_   grooves on walls where hardboard slides into&#xA;|_____|&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that plan sounds okay, what distance from the edge does the groove need to be and how deep can it go into 16mm thick particle board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an example of what I want to achieve (construction-wise) and what to avoid (sag and breaking):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F9d4V.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F9d4V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;(taken from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Fixing-Saggy-Drawers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.instructables.com/id/Fixing-Saggy-Drawers/&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="700" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2017-06-01T08:46:36.337" LastActivityDate="2017-06-01T08:46:36.337" Title="How to make bottom for a big drawer?" Tags="|wood-selection|strength|drawer|drawer-construction|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6039" CreationDate="2017-06-01T07:45:21.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Bottoms are planned to be made from 3mm thick hardboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the part you should probably change. If you make the bottoms from something much stouter it will self-support. You could go up to 6mm hardboard, which is significantly stiffer than 3mm, but something like 12mm particleboard/chipboard or plywood would be the superior choice. 12mm and even 18mm board is regularly used in better-quality kitchens for drawers, some of which will be filled with heavy pots and pans. If they can take that they can support the kind of stuff most people store under a bed!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;add 2 narrow crossbeams on the bottom &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also a viable technique. These crossbeams are referred to as muntins and they were the traditional means to support the centres of wide drawers not too long ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CgHSi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CgHSi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wide-drawer muntin&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.taunton.com/promotions/excerpts/DrawerBuildingBasics.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Drawer-Building Basics&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, excerpted from &lt;strong&gt;Chests of Drawers&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;by Bill Hylton, published by Taunton Press.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;add grooves along all the sides and crossbeams (using router with 4mm bit) and slide hardboard into them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would normally do this anyway with drawer bottoms. But with thinner material like 3mm hardboard in a wide drawer it probably won't prevent the bottoms blowing out (as in the picture you posted) if the drawer has anything weighty stored inside it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if the bottom is 3mm then a 3mm router bit should be used to form the housing grooves. A 4mm groove in the box of the drawer will make the bottom a very sloppy fit and provide no real support to it. If on the other hand the drawer bottom is a tight sliding fit* the groove will add significant support to the bottom, although it needs to be glued in place for this to work fully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Tight enough that you need to tap it home with a mallet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-06-01T07:45:21.190" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6041" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6043" CreationDate="2017-06-01T07:47:49.897" Score="5" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;Visible/accessible edges are trivial - we cover them for pleasant looks, durability and to avoid getting splinters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the benefits/needs of covering &lt;strong&gt;unseen&lt;/strong&gt; ends of veneered particle boards used in home furniture?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Waterproofing seems to be legit case. Some say the ends should be covered to stop formaldehyde fumes from spreading, is it true? What are other possible/justified reasons to (not) cover veneered particle board ends?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="700" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2017-06-01T10:37:36.570" LastActivityDate="2017-06-01T10:37:36.570" Title="Is it necessary to cover all veneered particle board ends?" Tags="|finishing|furniture|water-protection|toxicity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6037" CreationDate="2017-06-01T08:04:25.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You haven't done anything wrong and there's no issue with the wood. Oak is just an open-grained or coarse-grained wood. It's quite normal for it to have a visible, and tactile, texture like this after finishing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get rid of this if desired, but not by sanding alone because no matter how much sanding you do you'll continue to expose the natural grain structure of the wood. The application of a film finish such as varnish will diminish the texture somewhat by itself because it partially fills the grain and slightly rounds the edges of it. In order to completely remove it though the grain needs to be filled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of ways to fill grain but generally it's done either using grain filler (followed by varnishing as normal) or by filling with the final finish (you apply it thickly enough that you can sand down to a flat surface), after which you complete the finishing with one or two last coats of finish. The second does tend to waste quite a bit of the varnish because so much is applied that will be sanded away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note: the wood used is a smaller piece just for testing purposes prior to finishing the actual stair treads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well done on doing a test before committing to finishing the stairs! You wouldn't believe the number of people with far more woodworking experience who omit this step and then run into an unforeseen problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-06-01T08:04:25.267" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6041" CreationDate="2017-06-01T08:22:24.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it's not needed. You can do this because you want to (for whatever reasons, even if only for aesthetics) but it's absolutely not a requirement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Waterproofing seems to be legit case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only where you expect the piece to come into regular contact with water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given how long the material has been with us there have to be hundreds of millions of furniture items with unfinished edges on some of the particleboad/chipboard components and in general they hold up well. There's no problem from the water vapour in the air (humidity) and even the steamy environment in a bathroom may pose no threat. So sometimes its sensitivity to water is slightly exaggerated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some say the ends should be covered to stop formaldehyde fumes from spreading, is it true? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably not. The main problem with this line of reasoning is that if the plastic/resin veneer coating doesn't stop the egress of formaldehyde (&lt;em&gt;if&lt;/em&gt; present in the board) what chance does filler have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-06-01T08:22:24.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6044" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-01T13:04:54.630" Score="1" ViewCount="208" Body="&lt;p&gt;I only have hand tools available to make a mortise and tenon joint, could someone please tell me how to do this? Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3109" LastActivityDate="2017-06-02T04:18:37.003" Title="How do you make a mortise and tenon joint using hand tools?" Tags="|mortise-and-tenon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2017-06-02T15:56:47.813" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3753" CreationDate="2017-06-01T19:26:53.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I finally checked out the drill at my inlaws place and it turns out there is a special clutch inside of the drill. My mistake thinking it had something to do with the bit in the drill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4jF2a.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4jF2a.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Screw-Shooter Kit&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2079" LastActivityDate="2017-06-01T19:26:53.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6035" CreationDate="2017-06-01T20:31:21.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the mouse sander and love it. I have used it mainly to refinish chairs as they have lots of nooks and crannies. However, it is very challenging to switch the tip out as the screw is teeny, and you will go through lots of sand paper as it seems to work through it rather quickly, and you will of course need to buy the paper that fits the sander. Also, don't overuse a sandpaper as it will hurt the velcro the paper attaches to, and will ruin the sander. Good little sander for small jobs and if you don't plan on doing lots of sanding down the road. It could easily be used to sand a table, chairs, even baseboards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3772" LastActivityDate="2017-06-01T20:31:21.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6044" CreationDate="2017-06-02T04:18:37.003" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you got a mortise chisel among your hand tools? If not, you'll have a miserable time. If so, you use your marking gauge to scribe a tenon the width of your mortise chisel, and cut that out with your backsaw (or preferably your tenon saw, which is a smallish backsaw of the rip persuasion) and you scribe around the mortise, then chop it out with your mortise chisel, which is a stout and sturdy beast made to take some serious pounding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DVkfS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DVkfS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;old mortise chisel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some wimpier chisels are (mis-)labeled as mortise chisels in the modern trade. One like this will run rings around them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If need be you use a plane or paring chisel to make fine adjustments to the tenon for fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3334" LastActivityDate="2017-06-02T04:18:37.003" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6048" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6049" CreationDate="2017-06-03T08:50:16.143" Score="1" ViewCount="1297" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to install molding but stuck on the angle where the ceiling is sloping. See pic to demonstrate the angles: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P9AfZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P9AfZ.jpg&lt;/a&gt; sorry not the greatest quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z2bkt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z2bkt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two walls (striped wall paper) forms a closet. I'm trying to figure out what angle is needed to cut both molding to join seamlessly at corner in the center of the pic. Normally it's just a 45 degree cut for a 90 degree wall but the sloping ceiling complicates things a lot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it's clear. Can provided more info if not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3779" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-06-03T12:40:47.820" LastActivityDate="2017-06-09T10:30:44.357" Title="Installing molding on sloping ceiling" Tags="|molding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6048" CreationDate="2017-06-03T13:00:43.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no angle for making a symmetrical joint of the two pieces  Cutting the left trim to meet the corner requires a 55 degree angle where the right piece is approx. 90 degrees.  The vertical ends are not the same length.  Any profile in the trim will only enhance the mismatched appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several approaches you can use to make the junction appear presentable. if the trim profile is a simple rectangle you can simply chamfer the bottom edge of the left trim to meet the bottom of the trim on the right.  Another approach would be to create a vertical corner trim to receive both trim pieces.  You would rabbet a corner of some square trim stock so that the profile  would be &quot;L&quot; shaped to fit the corner with enough depth to receive the full depth of the moldings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2017-06-03T13:00:43.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6050" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-03T14:09:13.187" Score="3" ViewCount="306" Body="&lt;p&gt;So essentially I was making a bowed lyre (jouhikko/tagelharpa), which requires a thin spruce soundboard. I am going to make it by gluing three boards together as shown in this YouTube video:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be//watch?v=dfjMi0_kjw8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be//watch?v=dfjMi0_kjw8&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of just hollowing out a chamber through all three planks and slapping a thin board on top and bottom, I decided to thin  the top board down to the required 4mm to make the playable soundboard that would connect with the rest of the frame. However, due to a number or factors (plank was warped, I foolishly chiseled along the grain), the board became too  thin in a number of places and even cracked through in one corner. So the question is: is it still salvageable? I was thinking of eliminating the broken corner by drilling a sound hole through it, which would also stop the crack from spreading, same with other thinned places. Another option would also be to apply a sawdust and PVA paste to the thinned places to fill them in and make them stronger (the soundboard has to support 20kg of string tension). However, I'm not sure any option is optimal at all. It might hold at first even without reinforcement, but sooner or later one of the chipped places will start a crack. Maybe adding as many thin cleats as possible could prevent this splitting? I understand that the question would be more suitable for luthiers, but the situation here is simply finding a way to consolidate a spruce board that is too thin by filling in the flaked-out gaps or any other suitable approach. The treatment and its ugliness do not matter, since the repair will be on the inside- only the integrity of the soundboard. Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only 2 photos allowed on the post, so the rest are in &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://photobucket.com/albums/s437/Antanas_Melinis/18834514_1362603947162377_878710737_n_zpsq2bib1bp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://photobucket.com/albums/s437/Antanas_Melinis/18834514_1362603947162377_878710737_n_zpsq2bib1bp.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://photobucket.com/albums/s437/Antanas_Melinis/18871245_1362603960495709_1269244673_n_zps5alofw26.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://photobucket.com/albums/s437/Antanas_Melinis/18871245_1362603960495709_1269244673_n_zps5alofw26.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://photobucket.com/albums/s437/Antanas_Melinis/18815917_1362604037162368_1834044473_n_zpsuq8jj2qc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://photobucket.com/albums/s437/Antanas_Melinis/18815917_1362604037162368_1834044473_n_zpsuq8jj2qc.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://photobucket.com/albums/s437/Antanas_Melinis/18816828_1362604067162365_361181297_n_zpsg6rbmmsj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://photobucket.com/albums/s437/Antanas_Melinis/18816828_1362604067162365_361181297_n_zpsg6rbmmsj.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H7qVJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H7qVJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot; **General view of the hollowed-out plank** &quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qPU7S.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qPU7S.jpg&quot; alt=&quot; **light shines through the thinnest parts** &quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3778" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2017-06-13T15:11:55.623" LastActivityDate="2017-06-13T15:11:55.623" Title="Reinforcing/repairing a soundboard" Tags="|glue|wood-repair|chisel|board-materials|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6051" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-04T01:48:37.550" Score="4" ViewCount="525" Body="&lt;p&gt;This was in my grandfather's tool chest and probably dates back to the 1920's or earlier.  It does not have any markings on it.  It is made of brass and approximately 4 inches long. Notice that one edge of the arm is straight while the other side is curved. The gap between the tines is 3/16 inch or 5 millimeters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5ub9X.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5ub9X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3781" LastActivityDate="2020-07-11T19:01:01.183" Title="What is this old brass item?" Tags="|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6052" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-04T09:21:57.803" Score="5" ViewCount="198" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could anybody tell me the name of a window type that opens its sashes vertically in the same track, inline, with counter balanced system, where one sash goes up at the same time as the other goes down?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It isn't &quot;double hung&quot;, because it opens its sashes in the same plane at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ezQxY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3782" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2017-06-06T14:57:30.760" LastActivityDate="2017-06-13T02:26:16.590" Title="What's the name this window type?" Tags="|hardware-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6053" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-04T11:01:11.770" Score="5" ViewCount="23577" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a GCSE student and for my exam I have to design a children's toy and I wanted a durable, non toxic and cheap wood for some of my designs that could be thrown around and be put into children's mouths without being damaged but I'm really struggling to find a one as different websites have different information. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3783" LastActivityDate="2017-06-15T13:05:32.843" Title="What wood type is suitable for a childrens toy?" Tags="|wood|wood-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6054" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-04T11:59:02.017" Score="9" ViewCount="10098" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm designing a children's toy and I need it to have a non toxic, water resistant finish that can withstand being put in mouths, being thrown around and that is easy to clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3783" LastActivityDate="2017-06-04T18:15:43.493" Title="What finish is suitable for a childrens toy?" Tags="|finishing|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6054" CreationDate="2017-06-04T18:15:43.493" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although there continues to be disagreement on this point online (which I expect won't ever stop) any common finish should actually be acceptable for this. The finish needs to be fully cured, see the previous Question &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/884/what-is-the-difference-between-curing-and-drying&quot;&gt;What is the difference between &amp;quot;curing&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;drying&amp;quot;?&lt;/a&gt; for more on what that means.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notwithstanding the info below, if you needed to be covered legally I think you'd need to use a finish that's &lt;em&gt;certified&lt;/em&gt; safe for this application, or for food-related items. This is not to say that only certified things are safe, but they're the only ones where you can point to a document to show it has been tested and passed for one or other of the applications. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In support of the opening statement Bob Flexner, writing way back in 1992, had this to say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Safety for food or mouth contact&lt;/strong&gt;—Some manufacturers market their &quot;oil&quot; finishes as food-safe, but none have FDA approval. In fact, within each of the four types of &quot;oil&quot; finishes, the ingredients (all approved by the FDA) and the formulations are almost identical. It's most likely that all commonly available &quot;oil&quot; finishes are safe for food utensils once the solvents have evaporated and the finish has cured. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More recently, in his published books, he gives almost all finishes an unambiguous thumbsup. In &lt;strong&gt;Flexner on Finishing&lt;/strong&gt;, in the section titled &lt;em&gt;The Folly of Food-safe Finishes&lt;/em&gt;, he says the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;Food safety is a non-issue because there's no evidence of a problem and there never has been. So far as we know, all finishes are safe to eat off of, and safe for children to chew on, once the finish has fully cured (the rule of thumb being 30 days).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;    ...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;    I want to make clear that I'm not saying that all finishes are food safe—we can't be absolutely sure about the safety of any curing finish. I'm saying that there is no evidence of any common wood finish being unsafe for food or mouth contact once it has fully cured, so a distinction between food-safe and non-food-safe is speculative. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Accepting the above&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you need a tough coating for the wood (what's called a &lt;em&gt;film finish&lt;/em&gt; because it forms an actual film on the surface) then polyurethane varnish is an excellent choice. It is highly resistant to scratches, not so hard that it is brittle and therefore prone to easily flaking off (note however that all finishes become more brittle with age) and highly water-resistant. In addition it is inexpensive and easily obtained which may be important practical considerations on your end. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want the wood to have some protection but not have a film on the surface then a &lt;em&gt;penetrating finish&lt;/em&gt; is the thing to use. This is exactly what the name suggests, a finish that penetrates into the wood. Possibly the best choice here is what's sold as &quot;Danish oil&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using varnish you can achieve a high-gloss result on any wood, as well as something more matt if desired. With &quot;Danish oil&quot; the maximum surface gloss will be from semi-matt to satin/semi-gloss depending on a few factors, including the wood used and how finely it is sanded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't want to take the chance&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can leave the wood bare if the species chosen is tough enough on its own. One or two softwoods are and many hardwoods would be. Wood is quite a resilient material and even with nothing to protect it it can hold up surprisingly well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to add something to the wood so that it &lt;em&gt;looks&lt;/em&gt; more finished, something now commonly done with wooden chopping boards, then you can oil it with liquid paraffin (US: mineral oil). Do note this would be 99% for aesthetics, you won't gain any other benefit worth noting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-06-04T18:15:43.493" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6053" CreationDate="2017-06-05T12:03:08.127" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a look at what woods are commonly used for children's toys, and you'll see that a lot of the things made to be mouthed are made of maple or beech. These are both hard, fine grained, and are less prone to causing irritation. Because they are hard they don't dent or scratch easily. The fine grain means that even if they do splinter, they wont form large shards which could cause injury (unlike oak, for example). And finally, they have almost no smell, color, or chemistry that could even potentially cause problems (unlike walnut, cedar, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2017-06-05T12:03:08.127" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6051" CreationDate="2017-06-05T20:20:49.687" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a collet wrench for a Bosch router of that time period&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3790" LastActivityDate="2017-06-05T20:20:49.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6053" CreationDate="2017-06-06T00:43:19.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest any type of hard wood such as oak or maple. Softer woods like Spruce pine or fir are more likely to splinter in my opinion and that would not be good for your little ones. Make sure you sand whatever you make thoroughly so that it is smooth to the touch. Make sure all of the  dust has been cleaned off of it. You can use lemon oil to coat the finished product and give it a clean shine. I would avoid stain and lacker on a children's toy as they may put the object in their mouths and there are a lot of chemicals in wood finishing products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3791" LastActivityDate="2017-06-06T00:43:19.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6060" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6072" CreationDate="2017-06-06T15:56:10.080" Score="2" ViewCount="329" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the top is a freshly turned Red Alder bowl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HCEpk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HCEpk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bowls&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it dries, the alder bowl turns splotchy red.  Different bowl redden different amounts.  How can I control the amount the bowl turns red?  Ideally it would either not turn red, or completely turn red.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3792" LastActivityDate="2018-08-26T16:53:37.383" Title="How can I control the &quot;reddening&quot; of Red Alder as it dries?" Tags="|finishing|turning|bowl|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6061" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6062" CreationDate="2017-06-06T16:32:36.930" Score="3" ViewCount="233" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am starting to get more serious about woodworking and am embarking on a project for my church (A readers' stand with six sides and a rotating top with 3 book holders). I go to a Greek Orthodox church where a traditional aesthetic is important so the project should conform to some traditional standards of finery; although it doesn't have to be ornate by any means.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Up to this point I have only done more rustic projects for my own home using a lot of pallet wood (changing table, crib, shelves, coffee table, etc...). I've gotten away with using a crappy chop saw, a circular saw, a kreg jig and a drill for construction. As you might guess perfect joints and such were not part of the aesthetic. This sort of stuff isn't quite appropriate for a sacred space though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I am thinking that I should set myself up with a good traditional hand-tool set (no power) and follow some older traditional American techniques for construction. Does anyone have a recommendation for what basic tools I need and where to get them and also maybe a book? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on working with alligator juniper (very dense softwood), oak (dead wood from forest) and ponderosa pine, all from the AZ high country. I'm want to be able to do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cut planks from 6&quot; - 18&quot; rounds that are square (3/4&quot; to 2&quot; I should think)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;square rough lumber stock from yard&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make good through mortise and tenon joints for 90 deg&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make whatever basic joint works for 45, 30 and 60 deg&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;plane variable thickness and warped planks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No carving or curves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it'll take longer and be a lot of BST, but that's kind-of the point. I'm hoping I can get a good set of tools to get myself started for less than $1k.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3793" LastEditorUserId="3793" LastEditDate="2017-06-07T00:26:01.337" LastActivityDate="2017-06-07T00:26:01.337" Title="What is a good starter traditional hand-tool set" Tags="|traditional-techniques|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="12" ClosedDate="2017-06-06T21:09:53.457" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6061" CreationDate="2017-06-06T18:20:04.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Expense will vary a lot with sources of supply - while there are good new hand tools available, they are often expensive - if you have any flea markets that tend to old tools (or a vendor that does) they are often cheaper for similar quality - but that is a well that's deeper in some geographic regions than others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need a frame saw - that's often best built by you, and covers the &quot;bandsaw-ish&quot; jobs of making lumber from logs, resawing lumber, etc. without getting into the absurdity of a very hard to source blade (frame saw uses bandsaw blade stock that's easy to come by)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also want a froe &amp;amp;/or a set of splitting wedges/gluts for pre-processing your large rounds before the sawing starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A mitre box &amp;amp; backsaw help with angles. A shooting board can again be built by you and used with a plane that need not be a &quot;shooting board plane&quot; (but the cheeks should be square to the sole) to make things spiffy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jack, smoother, and block planes for a typical start. A roughing plane may also be useful when starting from split or very rough-sawm lumber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Marking gage (how you get uniform thickness on the other side of a board you have planed flat, with hand planes - and many other joinery jobs)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chisels. Mallet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Squares. Winding Sticks. Clamps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bench of some sort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3334" LastActivityDate="2017-06-06T18:20:04.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6061" CreationDate="2017-06-06T18:56:49.927" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not approach it like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would recommend you do is pick a project you want to work on, and then get the tools you need for that project. Chances are very good that all or almost all of those tools will be needed for the next project, too. Whenever you encounter a task that can only be accomplished (or can be accomplished much easier) with another tool, buy it then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, do you need a miter box? Well, that depends. Does your current project need any miters? If not, then you don't need it. Your next project might not need any either! And by the time you do have a project that requires miters, maybe you'll be comfortable enough sawing by hand that you don't feel you need a miter box anyway. Or maybe (almost definitely) you'll have some scrap wood from another project and decide to make your own to save some money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have number of tools sitting in my shop that I didn't have a specific project in mind for, but I saw them and thought, Oh yeah, I'll definitely use that! And they're still sitting there, never used, collecting dust, taking up space. (Massive random orbital sander that I thought would come in handy when I someday decided to do a large panel glue up, I'm looking at you. Meanwhile, my card scrapers take up such little space that half the time I have at least one of them out on my bench even though I'm not using it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2017-06-06T18:56:49.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1349" CreationDate="2017-06-07T16:21:17.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used pocket holes.  The strength can be improved by using more screws.  More importantly, in your design, make sure the wood is supporting the weight, and the joint is holding things in place, and not directly taking the weight.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nails in the wood frame of your house hold the wood in place, but they are not taking the weight directly, the wood is supporting everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3797" LastActivityDate="2017-06-07T16:21:17.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6068" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6069" CreationDate="2017-06-07T22:31:20.723" Score="2" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on restoring an old rocking chair that has anchors holding it vertically from the sides on horizontal beams, and the beams are air nailed from the bottom. Recently, one of the anchors failed, and the rest of the wooden beams underneath the chair have stress cracks in them. I'm thinking that the best way to repair this is to cut new wood beams that have the same dimensions as the ones I need to replace. The only thing is that the beams are air nailed into the frame. Would taking a chisel to the gap in between the rest of the frame and trying to separate the beams from the frame be a wise idea? I can foresee some damage resulting from this, but if the only damage is to the beams I have to replace, this may not be so bad I think. Is this a good strategy for repairing the rocking chair?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LEOic.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LEOic.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chair&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anchor:&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DGW17.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DGW17.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Anchor&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air Nails on Underside:&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8ptDT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8ptDT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Air Nails&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3800" LastEditorUserId="3800" LastEditDate="2017-06-08T01:03:51.650" LastActivityDate="2017-06-08T07:31:49.750" Title="Strategy for Restoring an Old Rocking Chair?" Tags="|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6068" CreationDate="2017-06-08T07:31:49.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Recently, one of the anchors failed, and the rest of the wooden beams underneath the chair have stress cracks in them. I'm thinking that the best way to repair this is to cut new wood beams that have the same dimensions as the ones I need to replace. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's the safest plan, it may not be strictly necessary to replace both because the cracks shown in the photo of the underside don't appear to be too bad but if you're going to replace one so that the anchor that has come loose can go into sound wood you might as well replace the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Extending the life of the replacements&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The replacement beams can have their lives greatly extended if you seal the end grain well. One of the best things for this is epoxy, epoxy glue from the hardware store will do. Just mix and force it well into the end grain with a putty knife or something. This will plug the end grain, which is like a bunch of straws ready to take on water, preventing water intrusion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some further tips posted at bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The only thing is that the beams are air nailed into the frame. Would taking a chisel to the gap in between the rest of the frame and trying to separate the beams from the frame be a wise idea? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not for the chisel :-) You can use a chisel for the initial separation but it might be a bad idea to use it to pry the pieces apart. Chisels can be used as prying tools but they're not intended for this function in their design or in how they are heat treated. I've rescued numerous chisels that have been used as prybars that had either broken tips or bent shafts. The better the chisel the more likely it is to snap, cheaper chisels will tend to bend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Better to use a dedicated prying tool where possible such as a cat's paw or pry bar:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lsoBl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lsoBl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cat&amp;#39;s paws&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have to buy it for this don't worry that it will be used just once and then put aside to gather dust, these prove surprisingly useful once you have one, especially the bottom type which is a true multi-purpose tool (although more expensive than the basic type which might do all you need in this case). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few more tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cleaning the existing wood&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you have a pressure washer that alone may clean the wood surprisingly well. There are some before-and-after photos posted online of cleaned siding, fence panels and decking which were just pressure-washed and the transformation is usually amazing. As you can see from the pictures included in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3778/can-i-run-pressure-treated-deck-boards-through-thickness-planer/3787#3787|&quot;&gt;this Answer&lt;/a&gt; in the after photos the wood looks like new in some cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Protecting the ironwork&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Something you might like to try, the ironwork can be given a very good rust-resistant coating by being heated in a barbecue fire until very hot and then dumped into a bucket or tray of oil. The container should be metal or wood, not plastic! This produces the black shiny finish often seen on blacksmith-made items and it is quite effective as a rustproofing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-06-08T07:31:49.750" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6070" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6088" CreationDate="2017-06-08T08:39:00.900" Score="2" ViewCount="1774" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This is a follow-up on this question (&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/6039/how-to-make-bottom-for-a-big-drawer&quot;&gt;How to make bottom for a big drawer&lt;/a&gt;)?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I have also read this one (&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4999/what-are-the-minimum-maximum-and-optimal-depths-for-dadoes-grooves-and-rabbe&quot;&gt;What are the minimum, maximum, and optimal depths for dadoes, grooves, and rabbets&lt;/a&gt;) and I'm not entirely convinced it can be applid to particle boards &amp;quot;as is&amp;quot;.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm making a large drawer - 130 x 60 x 18cm (on the inside) with 3-4 muntins (cross beams) in the middle. Sides and muntins are planned to be made out of 16mm particle board, bottom - out of 4-5 disconnected (by beams) sheets of 6mm plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;|     |&#xA;|    _|&#xA;|   |_   grooves on walls where 6mm plywood slides into&#xA;|_____|&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have got two questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What is the rule of thumb for &lt;strong&gt;depth of grooves in particle board&lt;/strong&gt; of given thickness? Should it be still 1/2 of the thickness (8mm) or less, given particle-y nature of the material?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How far should I &lt;strong&gt;offset from the bottom&lt;/strong&gt; edge? I reckon 1/2 of the thickness (8mm) should be minimum as well, does it need to be even more than that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Sidenote: I'll be using a router table with 6mm bit to cut the dados / grooves, if that is any relevance.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="700" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2021-04-02T06:56:24.223" LastActivityDate="2021-04-02T07:00:05.493" Title="What depth and offset from edge my dado / groove in particle board should be?" Tags="|strength|dado|drawer-construction|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6050" CreationDate="2017-06-08T13:47:31.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sawdust &amp;amp; PVA will not have the same resonance as the wood. It will probably sound dull.&#xA;In my opinion this is not salvageable if you want something that sounds decent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3802" LastActivityDate="2017-06-08T13:47:31.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6060" CreationDate="2017-06-08T13:54:42.150" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Streaming the alder for 15 minutes in a vegetable steamer prevented any reddening. I think I'd also get a different color if i used more aged wood. Thanks for the suggestion @encnerwal!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: oxalic acid will remove all reddening and vinegar will remove most.  The bowl ends up a bit more of a yellow color overall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lf2TJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lf2TJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3792" LastEditorUserId="3792" LastEditDate="2018-08-26T16:53:37.383" LastActivityDate="2018-08-26T16:53:37.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6073" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-08T16:04:06.367" Score="4" ViewCount="35634" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm refinishing an old spinning wheel and have one coat of Danish Oil on the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I NEED the whole thing finished and assembled by saturday morning and was hoping to get three coats of oil on it in total.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to do two coats of oil in one day? I'd planned to leave 24 hours to dry/cure before sanding lightly and adding each coat but it was raining yesterday (and I have to work outside due to space constraints) so I let inconvenience and laziness get the better of me and took a nap instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, as far as I can see, my options are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;do one coat tonight and be happy with two coats.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;do two coats tonight (one as soon as I get home and another immediately before I head to bed?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;do one coat tonight and one coat tomorrow and assemble the wheel a few hours later.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the minimum time required for each coat to cure/dry enough to put the next layer on? I REALLY want to avoid it getting tacky as I have heard that can be a problem with danish oil done badly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, I'm using the specific product &quot;Watco&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2554" LastActivityDate="2017-07-23T13:41:59.923" Title="Minimum time between coats of Danish Oil?" Tags="|finishing|oiling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6073" CreationDate="2017-06-09T00:11:57.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;24 hours per coat is definitely not necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is Thursday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do one coat tonight.  But in a couple of hours check for dry spots and reapply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get up a bit early tomorrow morning and put on another coat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put on another coat tomorrow night and give it an hour or two before rubbing it dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By Saturday morning you'll be delighted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that the tackiness to which you refer is most likely due to insufficient shaking or stirring. (It has happened to me - the tackiness can be removed by reapplying the oil and then wiping dry.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usual nod to properly disposing of oily rags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2017-06-09T00:11:57.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6073" CreationDate="2017-06-09T02:29:06.667" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It takes 4 - 8 hours for it to completely dry depending on humidity/temp. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Details here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fine-tools.com/danish-oil.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.fine-tools.com/danish-oil.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, yes, you can apply 2 (even 3 if you time it right) coats in a single 24 hour period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3807" LastActivityDate="2017-06-09T02:29:06.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6077" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6084" CreationDate="2017-06-09T02:54:30.860" Score="4" ViewCount="1719" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just finished (ok, I still need to poly it) a dining table top. I have not decided on the type of legs I will be attaching to it yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the two leg types I was considering was 4 &quot;post&quot; legs (3&quot;x3&quot;x29&quot;) attached to a 1&quot; x 3.5&quot; skirt with two lag bolts for each leg. The legs will be set 1' in from the ends and 10&quot; in from the edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will I need some kind of brace for the center of the table? Or will just the skirt + 4 legs do fine? I'm somewhat worried about sagging, but mostly worried about stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tabletop is made from Sapele and Hard Maple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3807" LastActivityDate="2017-06-11T06:39:44.577" Title="Would 4 post legs work on an 8' x 40&quot; x 1&quot; table?" Tags="|furniture|table-making|stability|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6078" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-09T06:30:30.540" Score="3" ViewCount="3609" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a table that is newly stained.  The idea of blow torching came after the fact.  Does anyone know what the results would be if you blow torch a stained table?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3808" LastActivityDate="2017-06-09T07:10:08.900" Title="Can I blow torch a table that is already stained?...what would happen? Thanks" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6078" CreationDate="2017-06-09T07:10:08.900" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as looks go the only way to know for sure what'll happen is to try it out, but on the safety side what's in the stain will be burned along with the wood and that may be a health hazard. So unless you're working out of doors or are wearing a good respirator (both wouldn't be a bad idea!) I would urge caution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can of course work around the problem, strip the stain, plane or sand off the surface, whatever is necessary so you're back to bare wood and then use the blowtorch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-06-09T07:10:08.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6073" CreationDate="2017-06-09T07:38:56.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no one answer to this. As always with finishing it depends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important variables in finish drying times are not the finishes themselves but your local conditions, principally the temperature and humidity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In colder weather or when the humidity is high (or worst, both) drying times for oil-based products are much longer, in warmer weather and when the humidity is low drying times can be much shorter, in fact easily less than the minimum time specified in the application instructions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the above &quot;Danish oil&quot; is not one product and even for a specified brand you can sometimes get variations from batch to batch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;do one coat tonight and be happy with two coats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two coats is often good enough with products like &quot;Danish oil&quot;. You're mostly finishing for looks and there's often little improvement, sometimes none, between the second and third coats. Again though, variables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;do two coats tonight (one as soon as I get home and another immediately before I head to bed?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibly doable but I think you'd be pushing your luck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;do one coat tonight and one coat tomorrow and assemble the wheel a few hours later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the least favourable option I think. You stand a much better chance of having the surface still a little tacky from the last coat here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is the minimum time required for each coat to cure/dry enough to put the next layer on? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where I am I would regularly &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; be able to apply three coats in a day and would often be pushing it if I tried to apply a second coat before the following morning. Completely different story for people living in hot states in the US who could have the surface touch-dry (sufficient for recoating) in only a couple of hours. For most people it's somewhere in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember to wipe away every trace of excess from the wood! That's the key thing to ensure minimum drying time and a tack-free result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-06-09T07:38:56.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6077" CreationDate="2017-06-09T10:13:48.470" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Upgrade the skirt to 2x4 on the 6-ft length would keep the top quite flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3801" LastActivityDate="2017-06-09T10:13:48.470" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6048" CreationDate="2017-06-09T10:30:44.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks like it needs a &quot;compound&quot; bevel, where the saw positioned at 45-degrees in the first axis, then at 27.5- degrees in the second axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3801" LastActivityDate="2017-06-09T10:30:44.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6077" CreationDate="2017-06-11T06:39:44.577" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is &quot;&lt;strong&gt;you are probably good to go&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more elaborate answer is &quot;&lt;strong&gt;it depends&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The depends part is based on the likely loading of the table top.  An ideal tool for helping with the decision is Sagulator as @Graphus mentioned in his comment.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you use Sagulator, realize that it is based on structural engineering principles and guidelines.  The allowable sag is determined by aesthetic considerations and even the &quot;borderlne&quot; sag is arrived at by the deflection being in excess of 1/360 of the span.  Borderline does not usually mean that the structure is in imminent danger of failing catostrophically (i.e. breaking).  When you get to &quot;excessive&quot; sag there is usually danger that the structure will actually fracture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In computer programming there is an old axiom - GIGO - Garbage In Garbage Out.  The same is true of using Sagulator which requires that only if you make all of the data selections accurately and knowledgably will you get a reliable answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first piece of information that is needed is the &lt;strong&gt;Shelf Material&lt;/strong&gt;.  This allows Sagulator to determine the material stiffness of the wood by selecting a value for its modulus of elasticity. Two pieces of wood with identical dimensions will vary markedly in their stiffness (resistance to bending) depending on their species.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next item, shelf &lt;strong&gt;Attachment&lt;/strong&gt; is a tricky one and should not be overlooked.  Engineers refers to this as &quot;end conditions&quot; which are either fixed or pinned ends.  In steel structures a fixed end is welded and even a connection with many rivets is considered a pinned end.  It is very difficult to get an end condition in wood that would be considered fixed (perhaps a well executed dove-tail might fit the bill.)  The safest and sanest choice is the &quot;floating&quot; option because it is actually referring to &quot;pinned&quot;.  The &quot;attached&quot; option actually refers to a fixed end which in wood approaches being mythical.  The difference in calculated results will be be in the range of 400% difference in calculated sag (e.g. 0.02 instead of 0.10.)&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Shelf load&lt;/strong&gt; is pretty straight forward and it would be best to use a uniform load because then weight of the wood itself can be included easily.  Not to include the weight of the shelf is to imply that a long piece of wood supported at its ends with no additional load will not sag.The dimensions of span, depth and thickness should be entered accurately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some times  people get lazy when entering the &lt;strong&gt;Thickness&lt;/strong&gt; and will enter 1&quot; when the thickness is actually 3/4&quot;.  This small difference will yield a difference of more than 125% in the expected sag of the shelf.  Even using 1&quot; instead of 7/8&quot; would give an error of about 50%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For the table in question&lt;/strong&gt; I entered type of wood as sugar maple (which has the same modulus of elasticity as the sapele), floating ends, 72&quot; span, 20&quot; depth and 1&quot; thickness.  For loading, I allowed 5.5 pounds per foot for the table top plus another 10 pounds per foot for stuff carried by the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result was a total sag of 0.15&quot; which is quite acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But wait a minute how about the apron that is actually carrying the load (sort of)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The makers of Sagulator conveniently have an &quot;edge strip&quot; feature which allows for stiffening a shelf.  That's exactly what the apron is doing for the table top.  I entered sugar maple, 3.5&quot; width, 1&quot; thickness and got a total sag of 0.05&quot; which is even more acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having vented on Sagulator, I would like to suggest that there might be a bit of problem with &lt;strong&gt;geometric stability&lt;/strong&gt; in that the end legs are only twenty inches apart (set in 10&quot; from front and rear).  I suggest that you move them closer to the edges, say 5&quot; or 6&quot;.  The cantilever at the ends of 1' should be fine.  Make scale drawings to see whether it looks reasonable to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The legs themselves should do the job if securely fastened to apron. I assume you have something aesthetically pleasing in mind for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2017-06-11T06:39:44.577" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6050" CreationDate="2017-06-11T13:56:38.617" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For best results, starting over would be the way to go; no question.  Adding fillers and the like will change the tonal qualities for the worse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However this your project, you can soldier on if you wish. Many instruments have been made with less than perfect material. And many instruments are quite workable with splits. Check out tone tapping wood (this will give you feedback regard changes to tonal quality of the wood) and take look at how other makers secure thin sound boards. Harp makers and guitar makers deal with splits all the time (glue and clamping mostly) also check how folk reinforce sound boards on different instruments. (I've even seen grommets or small patches of wood attached to add strength.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since part of the project is for you to learn, if you decide, this can be an experiment where you learn where is possible and what it is not. Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastActivityDate="2017-06-11T13:56:38.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6052" CreationDate="2017-06-13T02:26:16.590" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an interesting window. Like you, I could find nothing about this style of window – searched on Oscar Niemeyer, double-hung, etc. much as you probably did and came up with nothing. I found a patented window for which the top sash moved down as the bottom moved up, leaving the middle half of the opening covered and top and bottom open, plus the sashes were in two channels.  Not quite what we are looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a nagging feeling that I had seen something like this before and finally it dawned on me that this a classic way that doors on dumbwaiters operate – we've all probably seen this in a mystery movie set in an old mansion (inevitably there is a dead body squeezed into a small space).  I followed up this idea, hoping to find a dumbwaiter with glass doors (sans contents), but only found solid doors that opened up and down as do your windows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More diddling around  caused me to realize that I had seen other applications of this concept in movies where someone living in a loft gains access to their quarters via an old fashioned freight elevator with, you guessed it, doors that open up and down just like these cool windows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have to admit that even before I began my web search, I had figured out how these windows might operate, but I was looking for some illustrations that would back up my thoughts.  I found an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.couriondoors.com/Parts%20Courion%20Door%20Equipment.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;illustration &lt;/a&gt;for a freight elevator door,  but it had some extraneous components that probably would not be needed for a window.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is how it works:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Push down sash B and sash A slides up;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pull down sash A and sash B slides up&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jRjl4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jRjl4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Double hung windows with which most of us are familiar rely upon heavy metal counter weights dangling from cotton sash cords or chains strung over pulleys to make the movement easy. Four cords four weights, four pulleys and four channels for the sashes to slide along.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beauty of the windows in question is that they do not need the cumbersome counterweights, but instead each sash acts as the counterbalance for the other sash.  Each sash is joined to the other by a cord or chain strung over a pulley.  Two cords, two pulleys, two channels for the sashes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Negatives with regard to these windows is the need for an opening in the sill and the header for the sashes to go down and up; channels that need to be up to twice as long as the vertical window opening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are they called?&lt;/strong&gt;  Perhaps dumbwaiter windows, or elevator door windows, or Ideal windows or &lt;strong&gt;self-counterbalancing double-hung windows&lt;/strong&gt;. At this time it's  still anybody's guess.  Somehow, though, I think what they are called is of less importance to you than “how do they work?”  Truly cool windows and thanks for asking the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2017-06-13T02:26:16.590" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6070" CreationDate="2017-06-13T05:23:42.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I'll share my own experienсe&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Particle board is quite isotropic in all directions (unlike typical wood with directed grain). Sharp router bit spinning at 28k rpm produces very clean cut, without any tearouts. So there's nothing special to take into consideration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dado depth and offset should be around 1/2 of the material's thickness. So that the remaining material has enough strength to support the slided insert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;|      |&#xA;|    __|&#xA;|   |                 &amp;lt;-- depth is 1/2 of thickness&#xA;|   |__&#xA;|      |              &amp;lt;-- offset is 1/2 of thickness &#xA;|______|&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though it seems, that a little less depth and bigger offset is better, due to insert acting more as a lever than a straight force directed down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case - 1/2 worked just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. Take into account, that some particle boards have more densely compressed particles near the outside, which means they have weaker insides, which means they are easier to fracture under stress and might need more &lt;em&gt;offset&lt;/em&gt; from the bottom edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="700" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2021-04-02T07:00:05.493" LastActivityDate="2021-04-02T07:00:05.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6089" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-13T12:48:40.440" Score="4" ViewCount="474" Body="&lt;p&gt;What saws were traditionally used for timber framing cuts in British practice? British-style backsaws don't seem to have cut depths any more than about 4&quot;, so how did they cut long tenons?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3187" LastEditorDisplayName="user3187" LastEditDate="2017-06-15T12:26:24.623" LastActivityDate="2021-11-21T03:07:30.690" Title="Hand Saws for Timber Framing" Tags="|hand-tools|hand-saw|traditional-techniques|timberframe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6090" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6092" CreationDate="2017-06-13T23:45:44.093" Score="1" ViewCount="673" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wanting to do some small milling projects. I have pieces of oak and alligator juniper that are between 6 and 14&quot; across that I would like to try and cut into boards. I know I can build my own frame saw with some 2x2's and hardwar, creating a rectangular frame that the saw blade sits within, but I also saw this type:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PTFqY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PTFqY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;traditional bow saw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bow_saw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bow_saw&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Sega_a_telaio.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Sega_a_telaio.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing I like about this design is that I don't have to pass the frame around the stock, because the blade sits at the far end of the frame and can be rotated to cut at any angle (at least the ones I'm looking at buying can). So I can set the piece down and work it horizontally if I like. Does anyone have experience with this type of saw? Will they work better than a rectangular frame saw with the blade completely enclosed? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3793" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2017-06-15T23:12:27.313" LastActivityDate="2017-06-15T23:12:27.313" Title="What frame saw can I use to mill small lumber?" Tags="|hand-saw|milling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6091" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-14T13:24:52.797" Score="2" ViewCount="828" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making bird houses and I have been screwing the joints together. I have been drilling a pilot hole (2mm bit) and using 3mm X 30mm screws. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hung one in my garden and noticed that a couple of joints appear to be coming apart slightly after around a month or so. The houses are finished with Cuprinol Shades outdoor paint and the wood is bare before I paint (no primer etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a more effective way of joining end grain to prevent warping/movement? Would gluing the joints, using larger screws, a smaller pilot hole or priming the wood first help to prevent this? The joints are 30 and 45 degrees. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3821" LastActivityDate="2017-06-14T20:34:24.083" Title="End grain mitre joints for outside" Tags="|glue|wood-movement|screws|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6090" CreationDate="2017-06-14T16:06:51.403" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bow saw pictured is a type of frame saw; other frame saws may have a rectangular frame all the way around the outside as you mentioned in a comment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Will [a commercially-produced bow saw] work better than a home made frame saw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A homemade frame or bow saw is just as functional as a commercially-produced one. If you can build a frame saw, you can also build a bow saw like the one pictured in your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;all the stuff I see online for these &quot;bow/frame&quot; saws talks about them being used for finishing work, not milling&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can use these saws for milling. If desired, you could even use the same bandsaw blade stock that is used for bandsaw mills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2017-06-14T16:06:51.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6091" CreationDate="2017-06-14T17:37:35.907" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know how much effort you want to put into a birdhouse, but consider some type of woodworking joint. Depending on the grain orientation at the joint, a glued spline joint might be easy enough, and give the strength you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Screws in end grain typically don't hold very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some good illustrations of a variety of mitered joints, including a splined miter: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.craftsmanspace.com/knowledge/mitered-woodworking-joints.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.craftsmanspace.com/knowledge/mitered-woodworking-joints.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3187" LastActivityDate="2017-06-14T17:37:35.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6091" CreationDate="2017-06-14T20:34:24.083" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;the joint is coming apart because the wood has warped due to moisture. A miter joint will &quot;work&quot; if both pieces are sufficiently stabilized. You can achieve this using cross-grain battens screwed in on the underside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2017-06-14T20:34:24.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6090" CreationDate="2017-06-15T00:05:51.087" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you don't see is that the &quot;blade in the middle&quot; frame saw is nicely balanced and thus easier to keep on track. This form factor (stick in the middle, blade on one side) is more often used for cross-cutting or with blade holders that rotate, making it a turning saw (large, wood-framed coping saw, more or less.) Using it for long rip cuts it will want to walk off and you'll be fighting it the whole way, when a central-blade saw is very cooperative, by contrast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest building both. They each are better for some things, worse for others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3334" LastActivityDate="2017-06-15T00:05:51.087" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6097" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6101" CreationDate="2017-06-15T00:33:54.347" Score="6" ViewCount="3028" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is pretty common to see references to the &quot;paper test&quot; for checking for sharpness of an edge -- the idea that you should be able to lightly rest the blade against the edge of a piece of paper and it should &quot;bite&quot; by itself and easily slice through the sheet with hardly any pressure. For example, out of the box a disposable safety razor blade will easily pass this test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I'm a beginner at woodworking and I've been trying to learn to sharpen tools -- I bought some inexpensive Dewalt chisels a long time ago and more recently a Mora whittling knife to practice sharpening with. (I've got a Stanley No 4 plane arriving soon from eBay, as well.) After a decent amount of practice (using DMT interrupted diamond stones up to Extra Fine or 3M microfinishing film on plate glass to 15u, stropped on chromium oxide on leather in both cases afterward), I'm able to get them to pass a lot of other common sharpness tests:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shaving hair cleanly (everything from coarse leg hair to very fine knuckle hair)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Edge catches on the surface of your thumbnail without sliding&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No light reflects off the edge itself, no visible burr, no chips or nicks under a loupe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Visibly reflective/polished looking bevel surfaces near the edge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Edge feeling very sharp to touch with the pad of the thumb, and I cannot feel a burr on either side&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Edge feeling extremely smooth (like glass) when drawing the tip of your fingernail along the blade&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And most importantly, &lt;strong&gt;when cutting wood they leave a nice smooth surface&lt;/strong&gt;, especially when cutting with the grain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite that, one thing I can &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; seem to do reliably is make them pass the &quot;paper test.&quot; Usually I get intermittent results -- sometimes the paper buckles, sometimes it cuts &quot;alright&quot;, but most often it cuts a short ways but then stops or jams. It's definitely not as impressive as I've seen proper razor blades do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally I would just say the only thing that matters is how they cut wood -- but as a beginner I don't really know whether I'm experiencing more resistance than I should, or what the shavings should really look like when you try to shave end grain, and so on. In the absence of using &quot;properly sharp&quot; tools myself I really don't have a feel for what I should expect from a tactile perspective or an &quot;end result&quot; perspective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my questions are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Should I actually expect to be able to sharpen decent quality bench chisels, plane blades, whittling knives, etc. to the point they can pass the &quot;paper test&quot; when using the normal bevel angles?&lt;/strong&gt; Or is this futile just because of the bevel angles and thicknesses of the tools involved, compared to razors which are comparatively thinner and with more acute bevel angles? For a while I was sure the dewalt chisels just had crappy steel or poor heat treatment, but, honestly, the Mora which should have decent steel/treatment has similar problems.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Even if I could, is it a useful indicator for the tasks hand planes, bench chisels, whittling knives, etc perform?&lt;/strong&gt; Am I missing out on a &quot;final level of sharpness&quot; or is an effortless paper-cutting edge on these tools just going to be demolished after cutting through a few inches of actual wood, even with good blade material?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be tremendously helpful to know whether I'm getting myself frustrated over something that is either impossible or unimportant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;: After actually actually POLISHING the bevel of this chisel on the chromium oxide-on-leather -- say like 50x eight inch long passes on the bevel and 5-10x on the flat (instead of just a very light stropping), the results have improved &lt;em&gt;dramatically&lt;/em&gt;. I'm able to take very thin shavings off of end grain and it looks pretty smooth. Fresh off honing it will pop some leg hair although it's not 100% -- I'm wondering if my arm hair is just too fine? -- and it also does significantly better on the paper test, although not perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what it does to eastern white pine endgrain:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MmRzi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MmRzi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;endgrain&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/955WR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/955WR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;shaving&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3824" LastEditorUserId="3824" LastEditDate="2017-06-15T04:52:18.553" LastActivityDate="2017-06-15T08:20:29.480" Title="Is the &quot;paper test&quot; actually relevant to sharpening chisels and planes?" Tags="|sharpening|chisel|blade|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6098" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6099" CreationDate="2017-06-15T01:19:06.703" Score="2" ViewCount="663" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just made a picture frame that is 30&quot; x 9&quot; and 2.5&quot; from the inside of the frame to the outside. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was just given a sheet sander and I am looking to sand the frame so it has a smooth finish but I am hesitant on using the sheet sander as I have never used one before. Would it be worth while to use the sheet sander in this case or would hand sanding be a better option? I do have a wide selection of sand paper available to me: 150, 220, 320, 400 grit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not looking to remove a lot of material and that's another reason I am hesitant on using the sheet sander as I have the notion that &quot;power tools = a lot of material removal&quot;, is this the case or not? As I am a beginner into wood working any advice or tips would be very much appreciated on how to properly sand the frame! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3728" LastActivityDate="2017-06-15T04:01:33.960" Title="Using a sheet sander vs hand sanding" Tags="|finishing|sanding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6098" CreationDate="2017-06-15T03:55:08.513" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A sheet sander is often referred to as a Finishing Sander - this is due to the small amount of material that it will remove compared to (for example) a random orbital sander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could certainly use this for the flat areas of the picture frame with no risk as it will take a long time (relatively) to remove material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, picture frames are often shaped such that there is not much &quot;flat&quot; surface area - if that is the case then you are probably better hand sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, for that size frame I would probably hand sand.  If you are not familiar with sanding it would probably be a good idea to have a quick read up on it - most important is making sure you sand with-the-grain, particularly going into the corners. Depending on the state on the state of frame currently I would run through 120, 240, 300 grits, making sure you have completely eliminated the scratch marks from the previous grit level before progressing to higher grits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is a completely flat picture frame, then there is probably no harm in using the finishing sander once you get to the higher grits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="282" LastEditorUserId="282" LastEditDate="2017-06-15T04:01:33.960" LastActivityDate="2017-06-15T04:01:33.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6097" CreationDate="2017-06-15T04:25:54.837" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only test that really matters if it cuts wood cleanly and easily - as you say near the end of your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, even a blunt spoon can leave a reasonable surface when cutting with the grain (well, okay, I may exaggerate &lt;em&gt;slightly&lt;/em&gt; there), but the point is that you need to test on end grain - preferably soft end grain (eg pine) which is prone to tear out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can get a smooth surface cutting pine end grain, then you know you're good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was hoping to quickly grab a chisel and demonstrate, but turns out I'm probably due to sharpen my chisels! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a somewhat inadequate result indicating that I'm not sharp enough (but it's not toooooo far off, there's just a little tear out and it's not as smooth as I'd like)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NklbK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NklbK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="282" LastEditorUserId="282" LastEditDate="2017-06-15T04:50:05.927" LastActivityDate="2017-06-15T04:50:05.927" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6097" CreationDate="2017-06-15T08:20:29.480" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is the “paper test” actually relevant to sharpening chisels and planes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. As I think I mention in a previous Answer many edges can slice paper while still not being as sharp as you'd really like for some woodworking tasks&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lots of the 'substitute tests' (anything that doesn't involve slicing wood) can fall short, although once you get to shaving sharp — which is far above the level of edge that will slice many types of paper — you are getting to the point where you know the edge is going to be sharp enough to do anything you need it to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;And most importantly, when cutting wood they leave a nice smooth surface, especially when cutting with the grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're quite right, this is what's most important and the only thing you really need to focus on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; an important point here since the acid test in woodworking circles is frequently given as the ability of an edge to cleanly slice pine end grain: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2rT0f.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2rT0f.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Inexpensive diamond sharpening 3, stropping and results&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Taken from &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2403/does-it-matter-what-kind-of-diamond-stone-i-get/2407#2407&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all edges need to be this sharp however. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can quickly, and without undue effort, hone and/or strop your edges to this level or better then by all means do so every time&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. But for a lot of the run-of-the-mill tasks in woodworking, &lt;em&gt;including the majority of planing&lt;/em&gt;, an edge less sharp than this will pass muster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Despite that, one thing I can never seem to do reliably is make them pass the &quot;paper test.&quot; Usually I get intermittent results -- sometimes the paper buckles, sometimes it cuts &quot;alright&quot;, but most often it cuts a short ways but then stops or jams. It's definitely not as impressive as I've seen proper razor blades do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Razors and razor blades have a very small included angle while that of woodworking tools is generally larger (can be over double). The lower the included angle the better the cutting potential or slicing ability of an edge, but this comes at a cost of course and that is that the edge is thinner and therefore weaker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To put this firmly in a woodworking context this is why you can get away with a 15° bevel on a paring chisel which is used for controlled paring, powered by hand pressure only, but you'd never put one on a mortise chisel which has to be forcefully driven into wood with a hammer or mallet and may have to withstand some levering as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some further reading from previous Q&amp;amp;As:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1963/sharpening-grits-naming-and-selection/1965#1965&quot;&gt;Sharpening grits -- naming and selection&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4722/when-sharpening-how-do-i-assess-what-grit-to-start-on&quot;&gt;When sharpening, how do I assess what grit to start on?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3670/bench-grinder-tool-sharpener-or-sharpening-stone/3701#3701&quot;&gt;Bench grinder, tool sharpener or sharpening stone?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5599/what-degree-should-i-sharpen-my-chisel/5605?s=10|0.1093#5605&quot;&gt;What degree should I sharpen my chisel&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2398/how-does-one-aggressively-sharpen-chisels-and-plane-irons-when-damaged/2401#2401&quot;&gt;How does one aggressively sharpen chisels and plane irons when damaged?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; In addition to other reservations about the test paper isn't as uniform as one might think. Similar-looking papers don't have to actually be that similar, so the paper someone is using when doing a very impressive slicing demonstration in a YouTube video might appear to be similar to what you were using but actually be quite different. Furthermore some papers have a grain direction of sorts and will most definitely slice more cleanly in one direction than the other where you're cutting more fibres as opposed to parting them with the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Typical honing time should be a few minutes at maximum. The only time the average woodworker should need to work on an edge for longer than about three minutes is when first sharpening or if some folding or chipping has occurred during use and it needs to be repaired. If you don't leave it too long you can hone or strop an edge in under 30 seconds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-06-15T08:20:29.480" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2489" CreationDate="2017-06-15T11:38:09.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Asia, solvents are generally sold in glass beer bottles with plastic stoppers. It works well, though there is some diffusion through the stopper. Not enough to smell, unless you're storing something like HCl. If you can get stoppers and glass bottles, it's the cheapest solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, I can give some rules of thumb for plastic, since I find grfrazee's answer to be a bit too conservative. The plastic bottles you'll have available are are acrylic, HDPE, LDPE, PET, or PP. Don't put solvents in acrylic. PET should generally only hold alcohol or white spirits (naphtha/lighter fluid/paint thinner). Alcohol, along with the other oxygenated solvents like acetone and MEK, seem to keep okay when they're stored in LDPE. However, the more nonpolar hydrocarbons (xylene, naphtha, paint thinner) slowly diffuse through the sides of LDPE bottles and escape. Lighter fluid is sold in HDPE, so the rate of diffusion of white spirits through HDPE should be acceptable. On paper, HDPE and PP are generally better than LDPE. So in short, polyethylene/polypropylene are your cheap choice. Oxygenated solvents will stay in anything without diffusing through the plastic too quickly in summer. Chemical compatibility charts claim the plastic will weaken, but it won't dissolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't used turpentine, but it's normally similar to white spirits. I would not store xylene/toluene, methylene chloride, or lacquer thinner in any plastic bottle that is not specifically made for solvents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3550" LastEditorUserId="3550" LastEditDate="2017-06-16T09:17:00.500" LastActivityDate="2017-06-16T09:17:00.500" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6105" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-16T23:12:33.110" Score="0" ViewCount="344" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to mail out a small collection of Pacific Island (Guam)  Driftwood. I need to completely coat-harden driftwood so U.S.Postal Service WILL let me mail back to the states.  What hardeners do you suggest to keep Post Office happy AND still allow for driftwood to keep some natural appearance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3831" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2017-06-19T12:24:55.317" LastActivityDate="2017-07-19T12:25:49.897" Title="Suggested Driftwood hardeners or coating" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6106" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-17T01:08:55.197" Score="3" ViewCount="341" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently picked up whittling and have watched several videos on how to do it properly. There's one cut, I can't quite recall the name of, where you slant the knife and cut down on two opposing sides and cut out a &quot;v&quot; shape of sorts. I had a couple spots on my piece where this cut would be useful, but when I tried to do it, I couldn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering, is there a certain way you have to go with the grain? I'm pretty sure I was. Was the wood too hard? Was I too weak to press into the wood?&#xA;Exactly what happened was I held the wood in my left and right hands and with my right mostly attempted to press into the wood at a curved angle. In all the videos the knife goes down and makes the cut. But it was like tryingt to cut steel with a butter knife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand this is an extradorinaly difficult question to be asking, but I'm honestly curious to know if there's any reason someone could give me as to why I couldn't make the cut? Could there have been a problem with the knife angle? Blade sharpness? Grain? Did I miss something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3806" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2017-06-19T12:24:51.850" LastActivityDate="2018-11-21T02:47:46.760" Title="In whittling how do you make the v-like cut?" Tags="|technique|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="573" CreationDate="2017-06-17T02:14:34.697" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;NOTE: This advice refers to finishing smaller projects with relatively small surface area, like bokkens (wooden training weapons). Tung oil is one of the best choices for these, however, that's not always the case in other applications, like large furniture (unless you know what you're doing).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my experience with pure tung oil, if you treat it like every other finish and just let it sit, it will never cure. No, literally never. The only way for pure tung oil to cure in a realistic time-frame is to optimize your curing environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Factors that determine the curing speed are humidity, temperature, coat thickness, and most importantly, number of air changes per hour. If the temperature is below 50 degrees, don't bother. 70 is acceptable, 90+ is best. Humidity in the curing environment shouldn't exceed 30%, the less the better. Higher humidity means more water and less oxygen in the same amount of air—and likewise—drier air means more oxygen can form long chains with the oil, which is how tung oil cures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's cover the number of air changes per hour. Simply put, it's the number of times all the air in the interior gets replaced with new air (within an hour). The more fresh air enters and mixes with the curing air, the more oxygen is delivered to the oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is the most crucial factor, since even if your humidity is at 5%, but there is no air-flow coming in, the oil will just sit there and wait for you to remedy the problem, while you're waiting for it to cure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last factor but no less important is your coat thickness. With tung oil it's simple—more thin coats is much better than less thicker coats. In a thick coat, oxygen can't reach all of the oil, and the surface will forever feel rubbery and very sticky. Be sure to wipe off the excess oil no more than 10 minutes after applying the coat. Some people wait 30min, some as long as an hour. It's a big mistake that leaves the oil beneath the surface unable to cure (as with thick coats), and renders your finish ruined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First time I was using pure tung oil, I had an open window, but no forced air-flow. I also applied too thick coats of oil, and waited too long before wiping off the excess. I waited 6 weeks for one coat to cure, and it never did. Next time, in addition to applying thin coats well rubbed into the wood, I put a cheap 9&quot; fan in that same window, blowing fresh air directly onto my project, and each of my tung oil coats cured within 4-5 days, which for pure tung oil truly is the speed of light. Thanks to the forced flow of fresh air, my number of air changes per hour increased dramatically, as opposed to no air-flow. For the same reason, the smaller the interior you're curing tung oil in, the less air needs to be replaced, and the faster the curing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for &quot;how long till I can re-coat?&quot;, pure tung oil requires that each coat be completely cured before you can re-apply the oil. There are no shortcuts and no &quot;minimal curing time&quot;. How to tell if it's cured?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few behaviors the finish has to display.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, the finish cannot feel sticky to the hand, at all, whatsoever. If it does, the oil isn't done reacting with oxygen. You can perform a &quot;tissue test&quot;, where you firmly press a tissue against the finish with your finger, then slowly pull it away. If any tissue fibers get caught in the oil, you know it's nowhere near being cured. Also, there can be no oil odor on your hand after touching the finish, and no odor on the cloth after briskly rubbing the finish. All those behaviors will occur in this order as the oil continues to cure. Ultimately, only when there is NO detectable oil odor once you smell the finish up close and there's absolutely no sticky feel to the surface, the finish is ready for another coat. When oiling bokkens, I leave it for another 24-48h &lt;strong&gt;after&lt;/strong&gt; there's no detectable smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Experiment, examine your results and see what can be improved in your tung oil application process next time around. And remember not to give up! Dealing with tung oil is like taking care of a 2-weeks-old kitten, but it's the best wood finish (for wooden weapons) and well worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3832" LastEditorUserId="3832" LastEditDate="2017-06-19T15:18:13.880" LastActivityDate="2017-06-19T15:18:13.880" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6105" CreationDate="2017-06-18T14:48:58.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had good luck with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.turntex.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Cactus Juice&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; as a stabilizer and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.alumilite.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Alumilite&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; 1/1 casting resin or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.westsystem.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;West System&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; 5/1 epoxy both work well for filling major voids. A DIY vacuum chamber and a small source of heat via toaster oven, or, I like to vacuum bag/seal and submerse my stabilized product in hot water to set the heat kicked stabilizers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If its just a small project you could always just saturate it in a high viscosity CA glue, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.paleobond.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Paleo Bond&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; would be a specialty brand, loctite, Bob Smith Industries and Hot Stuff are hobby shop brands.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="494" LastActivityDate="2017-06-18T14:48:58.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6111" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6113" CreationDate="2017-06-19T01:19:02.557" Score="3" ViewCount="475" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure I have a good idea of what I'll be doing for the rest of the bed. For those curious. I'm wanting to make my own version of the DWR American Modern bed. The two boards in question are the main support board, which will support the middle of the bed slats, and a 1x2 toe rest to hold the mattress. The lumber will be either poplar or maple (I still need to price wood, and budget is unfortunately a constraint).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on a 1x4 for the center board. It is green in the image below.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sJzfy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sJzfy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am planning on applying glue to the end-grain faces of the board and then butting it to the pink main boards. I think I'll then use a Kreg jig to secure it with at least two screws per side. I do have a biscuit joiner; would it be better to use that? It would be my preference to use it. I'm just hesitant about alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the toe rest, I can only think of one way to do it. It is the green rectangle in the image below.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TwpiO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TwpiO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The toe rest will be 1x2. I'm planning on drilling the underside with a doweling jig, and then using dowel centers to mark holes on the end of the pink board. Is there a better a way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm hoping that I can get confirmation that my plans for joining the two boards will work, if not I'd like advice. Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3740" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2017-07-07T16:04:33.627" Title="Is there a better way to join these two boards for a platform bed?" Tags="|joinery|furniture|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6112" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-19T15:52:04.760" Score="1" ViewCount="200" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't want to buy cedar as the material for my dog house as the dog is going to chew it and it's just a waste of money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What alternative material can I use? or is there a way to treat construction grade Spruce in a non-toxic way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1734" LastActivityDate="2017-08-22T05:40:44.570" Title="Wooden dog house for a chewer" Tags="|wood-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6111" CreationDate="2017-06-19T20:30:54.033" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several considerations you must address before executing this project.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your tapered edge frame is too shallow.  If you look at most wood bedframes, the side boards are usually around 6&quot; deep.  Your profile appears to be 1 1/2&quot; deep and approximately 3&quot; wide with a tapered profile.  This is not adequate to carry the load of the mattress and people it  must support.  Looking at photos of the DWR designs I strongly suspect that there is an embedded metal frame supporting the bed frame.  There is a link to a website called the Sagulator under the &quot;Design&quot; tag wiki for this site that provides a tool for evaluating the strength of various woods and profiles. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your mattress should rest directly upon the 1x4 slats which means that your tapered edge pieces are either too high or extend beyond the edge of the mattress.  This could create a hard edge for people to climb over resulting in bumped knees etc..&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gluing the end grain to the side of the edge boards is the weakest possible joint.  Consider creating a rabbet on the inside top corner of the edges to receive slats.  If you cut the rabbet to the depth of the slats, you will create a continuous flat surface for the mattress to rest on. Make the rabbet at least 1&quot; wide to provide adequate gluing surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The relative thinness of your frame and the use of screws instead of continuous gluing will allow your frame to rack out of square more easily making moving the frame more difficult. Make the entire platform as rigid as possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you do not use a box spring to support the mattress, I would be concerned about the 1x4's supporting the mattress.  The wider the mattress is the more there will be a tendency to sag across the width of the bed frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I would strongly recommend avoiding softwoods and less dense hardwoods such as poplar for the structural members of this design.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bear in mind that you can make the framework much thicker and still show a thinner edge profile using a design such as you show, but with a much deeper frame set in from the edge approximately 1'-0&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2017-07-07T15:43:04.313" LastActivityDate="2017-07-07T15:43:04.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6114" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-19T22:27:13.477" Score="2" ViewCount="1855" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have painted a guitar with Behr Marquee Semi-gloss enamel (Water based).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to their website:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dry time : 1 Hr&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Re-coat time : 2 Hr&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cure : 30 Days&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to shine it with Bulls eye shellac.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to wait 30 days before applying shellac or can I do it after 2Hrs, or 24 Hrs?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I need to sand brush lines from the painted surface. How soon can I start the final sanding before applying shellac? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3842" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2017-06-20T04:29:45.453" LastActivityDate="2017-06-20T07:44:26.270" Title="Time between enamel and shellac" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6116" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6121" CreationDate="2017-06-20T02:50:12.280" Score="4" ViewCount="13426" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to replicate this configuration of a thin chain and eye hook. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bUgAW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bUgAW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Eye Hook &amp;amp; Chain&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks to me that all that is required to replicate this after getting a new chain and hook is to cut the bottom link of the new chain and use pliers to twist the broken link to the rest of the chain after first inserting it through the eye hook. Is this technique correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3800" LastActivityDate="2017-08-28T23:47:14.177" Title="How Can I Attach a Chain to an Eye Hook?" Tags="|screws|fasteners|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6116" CreationDate="2017-06-20T05:42:56.287" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suppose there is more than one way to do this, but I'd be strongly inclined to spread the eye-bolt slightly, fit in the twist-link chain, and the squeeze the eye bolt head closed again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do the spreading, I would use whatever comes to hand to act as a wedge. Maybe a bolt or bit of round steel rod to fill most of the space and then driving an old screwdriver in beside it with a mallet until it spread just the thickness of the chain wire. A wedge or cone of wood might do the trick too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another approach that's perhaps a bit more violent is to use a strong rod or tool handle passed through the eye and lever the end of the eye off to the side, kind of making it a bit of a spiral instead of a circle. You'll need to move it further, but it might be easier to find your tooling. Just stick the rod in the other way and bend it back to close things up. Only bend it as far as necessary to pass the chain to avoid fatiguing the metal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Avoid scratching the galvanized coating if you can as that would create a point for rust to start and perhaps shorten the cosmetic life of the assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For closing it up, a pair of channel-lock pliers perhaps, with a scrap of wood on each side as bearing. You may also be able to gently beat it closed with a rubber, plastic, wood, or rawhide mallet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this definitely qualifies in the category of &quot;a million ways&quot; to do it, but they would all be variations on the spread, slip, and close theme :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastEditorUserId="2779" LastEditDate="2017-06-20T09:18:45.303" LastActivityDate="2017-06-20T09:18:45.303" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6114" CreationDate="2017-06-20T06:07:08.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The product you mention, if it is the same as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.behr.com/binaries/content/documents/behrdotcom-en/products/interior-paint-and-primer/behr-marquee-semi-gloss-enamel/behr-marquee-semi-gloss-enamel/behrdotcom%3Aprintablepdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, is an acrylic emulsion and as such, coalesces as water evaporates. This process takes 30 days. Since shellac is an excellent barrier to water vapor, I would expect it to interfere with the paint's curing. If you want full strength from the paint (particularly if you might remove the shellac later), you had best wait the full 30 days, or a little less if your climate is hot and dry. I imagine you can rush it a little and still get a good result, but I have no basis to make good guesses about how hard you can push the timetable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3550" LastActivityDate="2017-06-20T06:07:08.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6114" CreationDate="2017-06-20T07:44:26.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As always, local conditions trump on-can directions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your drying conditions might be very different to those in the test lab in Behr, and anyway the number of coats you apply, how thick each one is, the interval between them, the moisture content of the wood, whether primer was applied first..... these are all important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drying (and, if mentioned, curing) times given on paint containers are sometimes conservative and sometimes unrealistic* but Behr are right to say 30 days because that is about what it should take a waterbased finish to &lt;em&gt;completely&lt;/em&gt; cure, in average or typical conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do I need to wait 30 days before applying shellac or can I do it after 2Hrs, or 24 Hrs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depends on whether your conditions are average or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you live in the desert I would not dream of applying shellac in 2 hours much less 24. I think you're almost certain to get crazing or some other problem (try a test on a scrap of wood).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Minimum wait before thinking about applying shellac I'd say would be about two days, being cautions you should wait a week at least and 10-14 days wouldn't hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I need to sand brush lines from the painted surface. How soon can I start the final sanding before applying shellac? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can sand when a finish is hard enough to sand. That's really the only standard to go by. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't require waiting for a full cure (although after fully curing finishes will sand as well as possible). For many waterbased finishes you can get decent results in a day or so, and again waiting longer would not hurt. Also again, you can do a test piece and find out what a good interval between application and sanding would be for your wood, your drying conditions etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*To make the product sound easier to use than it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-06-20T07:44:26.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6116" CreationDate="2017-06-20T13:22:23.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spread the eye.  They make special chain pliers to open and close eyes and chain links.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2nbNn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2nbNn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chain Pliers&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2017-06-20T13:22:23.510" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6116" CreationDate="2017-06-20T16:21:32.550" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't cut the chain. Either use a repair link/coupling, or slip it on the eye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Py0xE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Py0xE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you &lt;strong&gt;spread&lt;/strong&gt; the eye, it won't come back tight, as it will spring away from the point of contact. The secret to keeping it tight is to &lt;strong&gt;twist&lt;/strong&gt; the eye open - use a lever/rod/wrench to move the free end away from the shank (sideways), then slip on the chain, then twist the free end back into place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3334" LastEditorUserId="3334" LastEditDate="2017-06-20T16:28:10.727" LastActivityDate="2017-06-20T16:28:10.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="756" CreationDate="2017-06-20T17:04:21.417" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;All high gloss pianos are polyester. They are not lacquer of ANY stripe, nor are they shellac. Neither lacquer nor shellac can look good for long, except they be cared for tremendously meticulously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Polyester is a 100% solids, vastly harder than lacquer, and can be built ten times thicker than lacquer without cracking. It takes serious buffing equipment, and quite a learning curve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For black, contact Allied International (&lt;a href=&quot;http://alliedintlinc.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://alliedintlinc.com&lt;/a&gt;); for clear, find a nearby Duratec dealer. (Only Allied has a true piano black; others have a blue cast.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3845" LastActivityDate="2017-06-20T17:04:21.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6123" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6125" CreationDate="2017-06-20T17:14:24.820" Score="1" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a system of what appears to be a triangle screw (Or an eye screw bent into the shape of a triangle) and a double sided eye hook with some kind of washer on it. I couldn't find any references to it anywhere I searched. What kind of fasteners are these?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WSuWI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WSuWI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Unknown Fasteners&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5uico.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5uico.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Unknown Fasteners&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3800" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2018-11-08T14:50:11.243" LastActivityDate="2018-11-08T14:50:11.243" Title="Triangle Screw &amp; Double Sided Eyes?" Tags="|fasteners|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6124" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-20T17:43:51.113" Score="1" ViewCount="493" Body="&lt;p&gt;i was hoping to gift this to a friend, but I don't want to give something that has a substance that could potentially be toxic! Why is it greasy when it's just wood, and is the oil toxic?&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XwIIh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3846" LastEditorUserId="3846" LastEditDate="2017-06-20T20:18:56.050" LastActivityDate="2017-06-21T07:46:20.817" Title="Wooden Music Box oily and leaving residue on paper. is leaking residue toxic? bought in Salzburg, Austria from market vendor" Tags="|finishing|toxicity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6123" CreationDate="2017-06-20T22:22:01.213" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems to be a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stanleyhardware.com/detail/cd8375-galvanized-swing-hooks-with-bearing-s752-000&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;swing hook with bearing&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/p/Big-Backyard-Swing-Hangers-A24508/205853172&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;swing hangers&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/39w8M.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/39w8M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Swing hook with bearing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastActivityDate="2017-06-20T22:22:01.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6124" CreationDate="2017-06-21T01:40:35.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretty much impossible to tell for sure without some form of spectrographic testing, but 99.9999% likely that it's safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is probably either mineral oil (ie baby oil), or tung oil or danish oil. These are put on wooden items to provide a (small) level of protection and to bring out (or 'pop') the grain to make it look visually more attractive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, normally the oil should fully penetrate, and if it's a drying oil (like eg tung) it should, well, dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably this is mineral oil, and the maker may have not have bothered wiping off the excess. I would suggest wiping off as much as you can (you could even use acetone here to help), and leaving it for a day or so and seeing if that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I can't identify the wood from the photo, but some woods such as cocobolo or teak are naturally very oily - it's possible it is just natural oil from the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="282" LastActivityDate="2017-06-21T01:40:35.170" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6124" CreationDate="2017-06-21T07:46:20.817" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few likely contenders for the oil used on this but given the construction my money would be on it being a non-drying oil, specifically mineral oil or liquid paraffin (very similar to the base for baby oil, just a little thicker). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's finished in a known wood-finishing oil (e.g. linseed oil or tung oil) it's unlikely it would be weeping like this after only a couple of days post-application except in unusual circumstances. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there are a few rule-in, rule-out things you can look at to try to narrow it down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Smell&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A good starting point is the smell. If it's mineral oil there could be no odour from the oil &lt;em&gt;at all&lt;/em&gt; and if it has a characteristic smell it's likely something else. Both linseed or tung oils have a smell but they're impossible to describe really (in chemical circles they're said to have a &quot;characteristic&quot; odour, which means you know it when you know it!) but very broadly linseed oil has a sort of 'nutty' odour. Tung oil is sometimes said to have an unpleasant or disagreeable odour (this fades upon drying) but that's also said of linseed oil which many people including me really like the smell of! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Colour&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Another thing is the colour of the oil, mineral oil being clear as water while almost all oils of vegetable origin are some type of yellow or orange. Linseed oil can be particularly dark (orange-brown) and tung oil is a lighter version of the same sort of colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-06-21T07:46:20.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6128" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-22T01:21:29.120" Score="1" ViewCount="579" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had been saving some leathers swatches for use on a strop for when I finally get off my behind and start sharpening my tools. I apparently didn't notice that I had been saving bonded leather instead of real leather. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would prefer it not go to waste but I wonder if I wonder if it would not be good to use for this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it matter if I use bonded leather for a strop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2017-06-22T09:28:50.837" Title="Can I get away with using bonded leather for a strop?" Tags="|hand-tools|sharpening|tool-maintenance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6128" CreationDate="2017-06-22T04:17:38.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, you can use just about anything for a strop, so I think the question is &quot;Can I make a &lt;em&gt;good&lt;/em&gt; strop out of reconstituted leather&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally would recommend not wasting time on it and getting some of the real thing (vegetable-tanned leather). But if you're inclined, you could try it out and see how well it does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;grain&quot; surface is made out of polyurethane, so I'd say that's out; I don't see it holding the honing compound, more like it would just smear around. The back is made from fabric and shredded leather bound with an adhesive, so there's some sort of chance that may work okay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make a strop out of cardboard and a pretty good one out of MDF. All it needs to do is hold the honing compound well enough to let it do its work, and not break down too fast from the action of rubbing the edge over it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the bright side, if you try it and report back, you're very likely to be the world-wide published expert on strops made out of bonded leather :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2017-06-22T04:17:38.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6128" CreationDate="2017-06-22T09:28:50.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know what bonded leather is but if the surface is synthetic I'd say no, it won't make a good strop. There's one good way to find out if it will though and that is to try it :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say it doesn't work, no reason to be disheartened since you don't need leather for a good strop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See my Answer &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2085/how-can-i-tell-if-leather-is-vegetable-tanned/2087#2087&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for a few more details. And for context, the edge in the photo below was polished on a cloth-faced strop loaded with metal polish, not leather loaded with commercial stropping compound:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PC1R3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PC1R3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Stropped bevel, pine end-grain shavings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Pine end-grain shavings on the right, taken from the surface on the left. &lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soft-faced strops aren't the only option, see also the hard strops for gouges pictured in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3820/how-do-i-sharpen-curved-tools-like-gouges/3822#3822&quot;&gt;How do I sharpen curved tools like gouges?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-06-22T09:28:50.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6131" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6137" CreationDate="2017-06-22T11:08:27.777" Score="12" ViewCount="76936" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have nearly finished making a small table which will be placed in a bathroom. I am concerned about protecting the wood in a humid/damp environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bathroom can get quite humid while people are having showers etc, and in winter it can take some time to fully dry out. I want to avoid any mould growth or other damage from moisture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The table is made from softwood - partly reclaimed pine from an old patio door, and partly non-specific softwood from a big DIY store. I want to keep a natural wood look, so no paint or opaque finishes. Ideally, I would go for something not too glossy - a silk or mid-sheen finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had good results with Danish oil before, but for this I want something more hard-wearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see polyurethane varnish used as the default finish for a lot of things these days. However, I find that (where I live anyway) there's a wider range of non-poly varnishes available than polyurethane varnishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically with regard to protection from moisture, what are the advantages or disadvantages of polyurethane or other kinds of varnish? Are there any differences between oil based and water based varnish? Are there any other kinds of finish that I should consider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2258" LastActivityDate="2020-10-17T21:24:48.767" Title="What is the best finish for wood in a bathroom" Tags="|finish-selection|moisture|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6131" CreationDate="2017-06-22T11:45:17.257" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a tough problem to solve, and similar to what finish should be applied to wooden kitchen countertops. Overall, the difference between finish types is less significant than the difference between film- and non-film-forming.. with the possible exception of shellac, which i wouldnt use in any wet environment. The issue at heart is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A film-forming surface (shellac, poly, &quot;varnish,&quot; lacquer, or epoxy) will initially be strong, resilient, and protect the wood. However, over the years the inevitable scratch will develop and allow water in to penetrate... that will look quite bad, and repair is difficult if not impossible without a complete refinish. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exception to this is &quot;bar-top&quot; epoxy - epoxy put on in a very thick layer. That will be tough as nails and should never need repair. however, it's a unique look that you may not want. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On the other side is a penetrating/drying oil - those offer significantly less protection in terms of both mechanical and moisture damage to the wood. However, they are incredibly easy to maintain (if needing frequent renewal). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I speak from experience - my kitchen countertops have poly on them, and the poly has been scratched/worn through in many spots and looks piebald. I have considered refinishing with BLO, but haven't been able to bring myself to it yet.. so, my sympathies to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2017-06-22T11:45:17.257" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6133" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6210" CreationDate="2017-06-22T14:16:55.507" Score="4" ViewCount="410" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I had a crazy plan. And I need some advice about how to go about doing it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to build a small garden shed, more kinda like a cabin actually. &#xA;So I started drawing it out, and listing the timber I would need. But then I started thinking... What if I would build it by just buying a bunch of logs, and do it the old fashioned way? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that I live in Belgium, all wood needs to be bought from a nearby mill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several reason why I want to attempt this, but that doesn't really matter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First thing first, the design! &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vayn5.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cabin Design&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gU0Kk.png&quot; alt=&quot;Beam structure&quot;&gt;&#xA;Info about the design: it is 6 meters in length en 3 meters across. Top beam also at 3meters height. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing I want to try is hewing the beams myself.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Few questions:&#xA;- I read somewhere it is best to use fairly fresh cut threes for this, to make the hewing easier. But how long do I need to dry them afterwards before using? If I just seal and use them directly will I risk the whole thing cracking and becoming askew? &#xA;- which woods would be suitable for this? I need to buy the logs, and thought about asking some pine, because it will be cheaper then buying maple logs. But are all pine threes suitable for this? Or do I need to specifically ask for lariks or Douglas? Or is poplar, or something else worth the extra price? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that I will first try my hand at the hewing, and then see if I (we) am up to milling the rest by hand also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that I want to only use hand tools, and no power tools. Hewing will be done by axe. Other milling would be done by saw and axe also. This might seem crazy (it probably is), but there are several reasons to work this way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any more advance on making this project work would be welcome! I have some woodworking experience, and a number of tools (mostly hand tools). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for all advice! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3851" LastActivityDate="2017-07-11T07:10:40.773" Title="Building a Cabin; only un-powered hand tools. Need advice" Tags="|hand-tools|hand-saw|wood-drying|milling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6112" CreationDate="2017-06-22T16:07:28.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many woods are non-toxic to dogs (but some are toxic - see &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control/dogs-plant-list&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control/dogs-plant-list&lt;/a&gt; so no walnut but maple would work). So check the list and compare to what is available to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of non-toxic finishes available. Wax made for butcher tops is non-toxic (once dry) and uses wax(es) similar to those used in cosmetics (for humans). Shellac, once dry, is non-toxic (and can be bought as food-grade as can some waxes). Some acrylics are marked as non-toxic (but I have less knowledge here) and may work for you giving you access to more colors. (There are color-fast food grade colors as well that can be mixed with shellac.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like ratchet freak's suggestion of sacrificial parts, designed to be chewed and replaced and heartily second that thought. If you wish to research this more, keep in mind, there is more information on non-toxic approaches designed to protect human infants, much of which will apply to dogs.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastActivityDate="2017-06-22T16:07:28.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6135" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-23T02:44:16.750" Score="7" ViewCount="2564" Body="&lt;p&gt;After adjusting my bandsaw wheels for coplanarity, my blade will not track towards the center of the wheel. Instead, it creeps towards the front of the wheel. Tilting the top wheel does walk it back a little, but I would like to maintain coplanarity. How can I fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI, spinning the wheel in the opposite direction does seem to move the blade to the correct location, but obviously this is not idea because once it moves in the correct direction, the blade tracks towards the front again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H8oX5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H8oX5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bandsaw blade tracks towards fronts&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1518" LastActivityDate="2017-06-23T16:18:31.177" Title="Why does my bandsaw blade track towards the front of the wheel?" Tags="|band-saw|blade|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6136" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6141" CreationDate="2017-06-23T03:03:25.707" Score="2" ViewCount="1649" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making some I-Beams with glued &amp;amp; screwed 2x4s. I just got my lumber home and it's fresh and green. What is an acceptable moisture content for System Three general purpose epoxy? If there's a range of moisture tolerance between epoxies, would there be a more suitable choice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3854" LastActivityDate="2017-06-25T04:41:15.460" Title="Acceptable wood moisture content for epoxy?" Tags="|glue|green-wood|laminating|moisture|gluing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6131" CreationDate="2017-06-23T07:49:15.240" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;As always &quot;what's the best xxxx&quot; is not a good Question. In almost all cases there isn't &lt;strong&gt;a&lt;/strong&gt; best but instead multiple good options to pick from, and that is very much the case here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am concerned about protecting the wood in a humid/damp environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't have to be. People worry about this sort of thing a lot these days (I did too early on) but there's no reason to — things were made from wood and used in damp, sometimes &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; damp, environments for centuries before modern finishes came along and they lasted well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;You can even leave the thing bare and it'll do just fine&lt;/em&gt;. Although obviously most people would prefer the wood to look 'finished' and for it to be protected a bit from stains etc. the wood itself just sitting there won't be harmed by steamy air once or twice every day and the occasional splash of water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I see polyurethane varnish used as the default finish for a lot of things these days. However, I find that (where I live anyway) there's a wider range of non-poly varnishes available than polyurethane varnishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Poly is nearly the default choice these days because most consumer-level varnishes are poly, including when it isn't specified on the labelling. And it is the toughest of the common varnishes (by quite a margin) anyway, making it the superior choice if durability and waterproofing are desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Specifically with regard to protection from moisture, what are the advantages or disadvantages of polyurethane or other kinds of varnish? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm presuming here you're asking largely about protection from water vapour/humidity rather than liquid water, and there isn't a lot between varnishes &lt;em&gt;at a typical coat thickness used today&lt;/em&gt;. But referring back to my earlier point you don't need to worry about this particularly so it doesn't matter much here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are there any differences between oil based and water based varnish? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. Very broadly speaking the former are better and the latter not as good. But, waterbased finishes have improved greatly over the years and some are now much better than they used to be, equalling the performance of oil-based varnishes in direct comparative tests..... old timers take note!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the functional aspects of the finishes, waterbased finishes are mostly &quot;water white&quot; once dry and change the look of wood minimally as a result (on pine and other lighter woods, they can give a 'cold' cast to dark woods).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are there any other kinds of finish that I should consider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think so no. Totally a judgement call of course but there's no reason you need to look beyond common consumer-level finishes for something like this. I'm not a fan of them but commercial &quot;Danish oil&quot; finishes would probably be fine for this, unless where it's sited it will be frequently splashed with water in which case varnish would be a better bet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just a final bit on this since it has more general applications to finishing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ideally, I would go for something not too glossy - a silk or mid-sheen finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All gloss finishes can have their surface modified after they've hardened to a desired sheen level. This was commonly done on shellac in the past and it works just as well today on varnishes and other coatings. I've even done it to paint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is very simple, you're just scratching the surface very finely, usually following the grain, and being careful at corners and along edges not to rub through. The coarser the scratches (this is relative, they're still tiny so you won't perceive them as scratches if you do it well) the more matt the finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a satin or semi-gloss finish you can sometimes merely buff the surface with a cloth to knock sheen back one notch from fully gloss. On fully cured polyurethane varnish because it's very tough you'd usually have to resort to abrasives, so a gentle rub over with 0000 steel wool or the finest grade of Scotch-Brite will do the trick. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For something more mid-sheen and approaching matt you can use 000 / 00 steel wool or a coarser grade of Scotch-Brite. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-06-23T07:49:15.240" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6138" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-23T12:12:33.963" Score="3" ViewCount="1451" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a new Hitachi miter saw.  I replaced the 24 tooth blade that came with it, with a 60 tooth blade.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I started cutting the bamboo planks the saw would stop spinning midway through the board.  I will pull the saw blade up and it will get to full speed again and then I will try to cut the bamboo again and the blade will stop.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I repeatedly cut and stop and then let the blade speed up and then cut and stop and then let blade speed up about 7 or 8 times I can get the board all the way cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This takes a long time, and was wondering what might be wrong with my machine. Anyone have any ideas?  The bolt holding the blade is super tight.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using an Irwin blade instead of Hitachi.  Could that be the issue.  The holes on both the blades seem the same.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is bamboo that hard?  It seems like something is wrong.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3855" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2017-06-24T21:42:34.740" LastActivityDate="2017-06-24T23:11:51.410" Title="Hitachi Miter saw slows down and stops while cutting bamboo flooring" Tags="|miter-saw|saw-blade|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6135" CreationDate="2017-06-23T15:59:58.973" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Watching the carter band saw tips and tricks video (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU&lt;/a&gt;) Alex Snodgrass states co-planer is not what you want.&#xA;Instead the top wheel and bottom wheel should be canted slightly to the middle and blade tooth side (Top wheel / bottom wheel \ ) and you should be aiming to have the gullet of the blade tracking in the center.  Further back then most recommend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on his video I have tweaked my upper wheel spinning by hand repeatedly and managed to get it pretty centered.  The tires on your wheels are slightly humped in the middle and that's what your teeth should be riding on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't manage to tweak your upper wheel angle to fix this you may want to look at your tires.  Most saws let you swap these and they do wear out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1874" LastEditorUserId="1874" LastEditDate="2017-06-23T16:18:31.177" LastActivityDate="2017-06-23T16:18:31.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6138" CreationDate="2017-06-24T23:11:51.410" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, so I called Hitachi to see if the machine was broken.  They had me try and put the original blade back on, but the bolt holding the blade would not come off.  It was like it was wielded on, even though I had taken the bolt off the night before.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The guy at Hitachi said I should just bring it back to the store I bought it from saying, the bolt is supposed to loosen easier and the stopping of the blade was not normal.  He agreed there was something wrong from the get go.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I returned the saw and exchanged it for a new one.  I tried cutting the same bamboo with the original blade the new saw came with and it cut it like butter.  So the original machine was just defective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your comments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3855" LastActivityDate="2017-06-24T23:11:51.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6136" CreationDate="2017-06-25T04:41:15.460" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I called System Three and they were very helpful - they strongly recommended only epoxying wood that's reached it's equilibrium moisture content and not in any environment where it could be exposed to water. The issue is that as the wood expands and contracts, the brittle epoxy is more likely than not to crack or tear the bonded surface off, obviating any holding power it had.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3854" LastActivityDate="2017-06-25T04:41:15.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6142" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6143" CreationDate="2017-06-25T23:43:42.993" Score="1" ViewCount="11360" Body="&lt;p&gt;I inherited a couple old wooden boxes full of tools that are both generally dirty, stained, and dusty.  Could someone please give me some suggestions on how to clean them up, specifically a product and technique?  It would be nice to preserve the general older look but make them look nice at the same time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RjM8a.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RjM8a.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;boxes&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NidTY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NidTY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;boxes&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8OsES.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8OsES.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;boxes&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3638" LastActivityDate="2022-03-18T04:18:45.823" Title="How can I restore these two old wooden boxes?" Tags="|refinishing|clean-up|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6142" CreationDate="2017-06-26T07:46:13.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;How far to take a cleaning is always up to the individual. As with old tools you can basically clean something up a little bit all the way to a full restoration and it's completely up to you how far you take it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The minimalist approach often seeks to &quot;preserve patina&quot; – note that the majority of patina is actually built-up dirt and rust on old things! (not that this is an argument in favour of removing it, just an FYI) – and at the other extreme you can make the thing look new or nearly so, and there are various levels in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First step is the same regardless and that is getting the dirt off, although with some cleaning procedures (many of the traditional ones) the cleaning solution also does some 'restoration' of the finish. I think it's better to separate the steps in most cases so you clean, then assess how it looks and proceed from there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd break it down like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dust&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;clean&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;restore (&lt;em&gt;if&lt;/em&gt; desired)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here, first thing to do is dust them off with a soft brush or duster. Sometimes it's quite amazing how much difference that alone makes! A 1-2&quot; (25-50mm) paintbrush with natural or synthetic bristles makes an excellent dusting brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basic first step in cleaning is to use warm soapy water&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; but a slightly better result is often obtained if you use a mixture of soapy water and one or more solvents. One of the best cleaning solutions I've discovered through reading is also one of the simplest, hot soapy water with a little turpentine or mineral spirits (UK: white spirit) added. The water alone will do a decent job but the turps/spirits adds a little extra cleaning power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gentle use of one of these is often useful:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D6vqj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D6vqj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Scouring sponge&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the sponge side for most of it, flip over and use the nylon scourer side for stubborn dirt and if you want to give the thing a deeper clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although these boxes look stout as a general point the cloth or sponge used in cleaning wooden items should be &lt;em&gt;damp not wet&lt;/em&gt;. Even with that you might want to have a dry sponge or cloth in the other hand to dry the surface off as you go. How much dirt gets transferred to the dry sponge/cloth also tells you how much grunge is still present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're done cleaning stop for a few hours to overnight before doing anything further. Once the wood is dry you're in a better position to assess the condition and the look of the piece, and anyway most restoration processes require the surface to be dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not happy to stop at this point the old advice was often to wait for a day and then apply a little paste wax and this is still a good option generally today and might be the best call here specifically. In addition to adding a bit of shine wax helps the wood not to look so 'dry' &lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; and that is often just enough restoration of looks for old items to look cared for, without having to add any new finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; If you want to retain the traces of paper labels on the box closest to camera in the first image you might want to stop there. Any cleaning with water might do some damage to the paper or start to dissolve the glue/paste used to adhere it to the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Be aware that the wax doesn't actually make the wood wet or help it not to dry out further, the furniture-polish industry's idea of &quot;feeding&quot; wood is complete bunkum. Wood doesn't just dry out, even bare wood takes on moisture as easily as it loses it, this is why wood expands and contracts through the seasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-06-26T07:46:13.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6144" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-26T08:26:26.090" Score="0" ViewCount="305" Body="&lt;p&gt;This chuck here is the chuck I have with my lathe. It doesn't have any teeth or grooves to bite the wood. Just smooth surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know how to use it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7x4cn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7x4cn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wood Chuck&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1426" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2017-06-26T12:23:00.593" LastActivityDate="2017-07-25T11:22:43.403" Title="How to use this type of chuck without grooves/teeth?" Tags="|turning|lathe|lathe-chuck|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6145" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6146" CreationDate="2017-06-26T12:57:20.260" Score="1" ViewCount="3320" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've finally gotten close to finishing the workbench that the kind people here have given me input on (&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/q/5938/3638&quot;&gt;Need help understanding workbench design and build process&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently have two top slabs, each made up of eight glued-up/laminated 2x4s.  I am still thinking about attaching them to the frame with dowels.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rather than gluing these two slabs together to form a giant slab, would it be acceptable to leave the top as two separate slabs, and attach each with a dowel on each side? The portability and lighter weight of two top slabs would be a benefit as the workbench may be moved occasionally.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If that's okay, due to the fact that the frame is 24 inches deep and the slabs each ended up being around 11.75 inches deep after planing and gluing, is it okay to leave a gap in the middle?  I've seen some benches with a trough in between two slabs, but never with a gap.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is a .75&quot; dowel an acceptable size to use in a frame member that is only 1.5&quot; wide, leaving only .375&quot; on each side of the dowel?  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After I plane and attach the top, should this be left unfinished or are there acceptable methods of finishing to make the cheap pine look a little nicer and/or provide durability?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xy5Wz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xy5Wz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;workbench top view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wx7Cg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wx7Cg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;workbench side view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wAufi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wAufi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;workbench front view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3638" LastActivityDate="2017-06-26T21:51:01.607" Title="Two piece workbench top" Tags="|workbench|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6145" CreationDate="2017-06-26T15:25:49.273" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your bench design is related to a style called &quot;Roubo&quot; named after a French woodworker who originated the design style.  Many workbenches, including mine are based upon the Roubo split top.  This photo shows a removable filler that is inserted in the 1 1/2&quot; wide gap between the two slabs.  When placed with one side up it is flush with the bench top surface providing a continuous surface.  When inverted it protrudes above the top surface to provide a stop for boards useful for planing or other tasks.  The slot in the center provides a very useful tool holder to drop saws, chisels or other tools into prevent them from rolling off the top while working on your project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are right on target mounting the two slabs independently. Dowels are fine. I would recommend placing one centered on each leg extending up into the slab and leg approx 1/1/2&quot;.  That way you can use a larger diameter  (or square dowel) of 1&quot; to 1 1/2&quot; width.  Since the slabs will expand and contract and are only pinned to the base near the outside corners of the base, the slabs will expand into the gap in the center of the top. allow clearance between the filler insert and the gap of approx 1/4&quot; to accommodate the seasonal changes in width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As fr finishing the top.  I would recommend leaving it natural.  Friction between your work pieces and the top is good for holding the work in place during operations.  In addition, your surface will get scratched and dented and may require planing to reestablish a level plane surface over the years. Refurbishing the top will be more difficult with an old finish surface in the way.  Besides, I like the aesthetic of a well worn bench top. In my opinion, let the bench reveal its work history.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4RuN4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4RuN4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Roubo Split top Bench&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2017-06-26T15:25:49.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6147" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6149" CreationDate="2017-06-26T20:41:19.513" Score="2" ViewCount="253" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm literally just starting out in woodworking. I notice that even many British woodworkers online are talking in inches, or &quot;a couple of thou'&quot; when describing measurements etc. I also notice that things like 1, 2, 3 blocks don't seem to come in metric sizes, and that lumber is still offered in 2x4&quot; and plywood is &quot;half-inch&quot; or &quot;quarter-inch&quot; (although in Europe metric units have to be displayed on product labels as well).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that inches are divided into 8ths/16ths (though I've never measured a thousandth of an inch - that seems infinitesimal!) but haven't ever really worked with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given I'm a child of the metric age, &lt;strong&gt;are there any concrete reasons to use imperial measurements in my woodworking&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3516" LastEditorUserId="3516" LastEditDate="2017-06-27T19:34:39.790" LastActivityDate="2017-06-27T19:34:39.790" Title="Imperial or metric?" Tags="|measurement|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2017-06-28T14:15:09.143" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6144" CreationDate="2017-06-26T20:56:35.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each jaw has 4 teeth - 3 stepped ones on the inside and one large one on the outside. Still, it's more of a metalworking chuck that can be used for limited woodworking tasks than a dedicated woodworking chuck. Giving it the sort of teeth you appear to mean would not make it a much better woodworking chuck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You either expand the outer jaws into a relatively large recess, or you clamp down on smaller items from the outside in the middle. In general your success will be better if you make a tenon that's sized for the best working position of the set of jaws you intend to use, and you'll not need that clamped surface in the final result, as it will get dented and marred with this type of jaw. You also want to support the work as long as possible with a tailstock center to limit the tendency to pry loose from this unsuitable jaw style. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the picture represents your exact chuck, there's a sad lack of means to attach sacrificial wood jaws, which is one way to get much more use out of this sort of chuck. You might want to simply regard it as &quot;something not worth much that came with the lathe&quot; and get a proper woodturning chuck instead. They generally also don't have teeth, but they do have dovetail jaws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3334" LastActivityDate="2017-06-26T20:56:35.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6147" CreationDate="2017-06-26T21:33:28.983" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If imperial measurements were not so ingrained in my mind, I'd do everything in metric.  Quite a few of the tools here in the US that are labeled as &quot;inch&quot; are actually metric.  A few of my 1/2&quot; chisels are actually 13mm - slightly larger than one would expect, which can cause difficulties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My favorite tape measure is metric only - Talmeter.  As to 1-2-3 blocks, the metric versions are 25-50-75 blocks, and they are readily available on Amazon.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, absolute measurements are not as important when making non-production builds.  What is more important is that the parts fit relative to each other.  I typically will use a tape measure to get my initial sizes, but from then on I will use a story stick so I can get consistent sizing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you &quot;think&quot; in metric, use metric.  Hold your hands 165mm apart.  If you know about how far that is, then you are thinking in metric.  If you have to convert that to inches, then you don't.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VmtqD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VmtqD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Talmeter Tape Measure&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2017-06-26T21:33:28.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6145" CreationDate="2017-06-26T21:51:01.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a small bench I made a few years ago with similar materials.  I glued the top into a single slab, and cut mortises in the underside to match up with the tenons I cut out of the tops of the legs.  I don't use anything but friction and the weight of the top to hold it on the legs.  I finished the whole thing with several coats of Boiled Lindseed Oil (BLO).  Since BLO is an oil that penetrates into the wood rather than a finish that goes over the top, you still have the wood feel, but gain some resistance to glue and spills.  BLO can easily be reapplied when necessary.  I have planed my bench smooth and refinished it over half a dozen times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no metal fasteners at all in this table, just glue and joinery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E7Qin.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E7Qin.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here it is with the vise mounted and dog holes drilled.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7P3ok.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7P3ok.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2017-06-26T21:51:01.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6151" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6154" CreationDate="2017-06-26T21:53:18.273" Score="1" ViewCount="16362" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never worked with wood before but would like to create my very first desk. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please let me know if this is a good idea and how to improve upon it! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to get a cheap desk from ikea: &lt;a href=&quot;http://m.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/spr/29932181/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://m.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/spr/29932181/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It states the maximum load capacity is 110lbs (50kg) but I'd like to increase it to like 170-200 lbs (80-90kg) so I can be sure my computer and monitors won't be stressing it. I might occasion put pressure from leaning on the table so I want to be extra sure it won't strain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd love to build it on my own but I don't have any proper tools and getting a sheet of wood that is thick enough is difficult. If anyone could comment on the above idea or have recommendations, please let me know!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3868" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2017-06-27T16:05:45.680" LastActivityDate="2017-06-27T16:05:45.680" Title="How to increase maximum load capacity of a table?" Tags="|table-making|stability|weight-capacity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6151" CreationDate="2017-06-26T22:55:48.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can see two ways this table could fail under load.  Either the leg joints could fail (resulting in either racking or the legs splaying) or the surface could bow and break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the first issue, I would reinforce the joints by adding diagonal braces going from the legs to the top.  I'd probably try two braces from each leg, 4-6&quot; away from the joint.  This would also help the second issue by reducing the span distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the second issue I would reinforce the tabletop with either slats attached to the underside or traditional aprons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2017-06-26T22:55:48.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6147" CreationDate="2017-06-27T02:03:07.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with LeeG in that I'd be inclined to work in whatever measurement system you have the best intuitive feel for. This might make it more challenging to study the craft on YouTube and so on, but hopefully you'll be spending a lot more time building things than studying for concepts and techniques. A familiar measuring system will be less frustrating to work in and lead to fewer errors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's relatively rare that dimensional lumber stays in its as-bought state for any real woodworking, so as long as you can tell if there is enough material there for your intended purposes, it shouldn't matter much what its exact purchased size is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might find it convenient to calibrate your tools in metric, like having a centimeter scale on your table saw fence and so on. It's rare in my experience that hand tools need to be a particular size; it seems like it's more of an &quot;at least as big as this&quot; and &quot;no bigger than that&quot; sort of thing. So I don't see there being a big problem having a 13mm chisel rather than a 1/2&quot; chisel (12.7mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LeeG makes an important point about numeric measurement in general, in that it tends to be overvalued by the starting woodworker. It may not be immediately apparent, but measuring with a rule or tape is fairly inaccurate and tends to produce poor fits. Direct or transfer measurements produce much more precise work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The emphasis on &quot;build to size&quot; is inherited from the emphasis on &lt;em&gt;interchangeable parts&lt;/em&gt; that arose during the Industrial Revolution. This is important, along with precise measurement techniques, when parts made elsewhere at another time need to fit something you have now. It's rarely important in woodworking and &quot;build to fit&quot; is very often a more satisfactory approach. This involves (among other things) transferring lengths directly from one workpiece to another, without the intervening reference to an often questionable standard such as a rule or tape. This is one reason why you see woodworkers using measurement and layout techniques that would have been at home in the 1800s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last thing I'll say is that 0.001&quot; isn't as infinitesimal as one might initially think. While it's rare that a piece of wood needs to be finished to +/- 0.001&quot; (and probably wouldn't stay there long if you did), a difference of 0.005&quot; (0.127mm) can be the difference between a perfectly fitting joint and a sloppy one. I think it's worth having a digital calipers handy for when it makes a difference. I will say though that the plastic one I have calibrated in 1/64&quot; gets used 50 times more frequently in my shop :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2017-06-27T02:03:07.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6151" CreationDate="2017-06-27T03:17:08.213" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, the 110 pounds they say for that desk almost certainly is being very conservative, it will probably actually hold at least twice that.  That being said, we can look at the ways it can fail and help mitigate each of those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the specs on that desk , the top material is probably the weak point.  Putting a lot of weight over the middle of the desk could over stress the top itself causing it to break.  The easiest fix there is to put more of the weight directly over the legs.  If you want to strengthen the center, you can affix ribbing to the bottom to help spread the weight.  I wouldn't really expect that to work well in this case due to the fact that there isn't much material on the top to attach to - it is really just a thin torsion box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This thin top material will lead to another probably source of failure - lateral movement.  If you apply much lateral force in either the X or Y plane, the fasteners holding the legs in will probably fail cause the table to collapse.  Since the legs are metal, there probably isn't a 'good' way to give them lateral bracing.  You could use some angle brackets and attach the desktop to a wall so that it cannot easily more side to side or front to back.  This coupled with keeping the weight above the legs would probably be your best bet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2017-06-27T03:17:08.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6131" CreationDate="2017-06-27T06:01:31.100" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, I made a towel rack out of wood and finished it with a few layers of shellac. It's only been a few months, but I see no evidence of water damage. (I thought I might get water spots.) The moisture of a damp towel poses no problems. If shellac can withstand mild dampness for 6-12 hours each day (humid climate), any film-forming finish should tolerate the humidity of a bathroom. (However, I would definitely not use water-based shellac!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aaron mentioned the fact that film-forming finishes are harder to repair. That may be true for those that cross-link, but shellac repair is as easy as the initial application. Lacquer repair is similar, but you need spray equipment (or very high skill, if brushing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3550" LastActivityDate="2017-06-27T06:01:31.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6156" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6157" CreationDate="2017-06-27T18:43:48.543" Score="3" ViewCount="2133" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to build a couple simple picture frames. I don't have a jointer or planer, so would use my table saw or split-fence router for those operations. Even with those tools, though, it seems that running an 8' board over the jointer would be a bit difficult. Is it a problem to cut the 8' board into more manageable lengths (2-3') before jointing / planing them? I figure I'll lose any grain continuity I might have had by going this route, but that's not a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that I will be using a table saw to joint the faces of the boards, it would be much easier to rip them to rough width (~1.5-2&quot;) beforehand as well. Would this pose any problems? Will I wind up with workpieces that are slightly different sizes by going this route? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastActivityDate="2021-07-06T18:48:50.350" Title="Should I joint my workpieces first or cut them to rough size first?" Tags="|technique|jointer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6156" CreationDate="2017-06-27T19:58:29.243" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Larger pieces generally require removing more material to get a perfectly flat face, so it is common to break pieces down to more manageable sizes before jointing.  This applies to both the width and length.  The more significantly the rough lumber is warped, the larger the benefit to breaking it down first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ripping non-flat lumber on a table saw is dangerous so the band saw is the preferable tool to use for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jointing only flattens one face or side, a thickness planer planes the wood to the desired thickness and this is how you ensure all your pieces are of the same thickness.  After you have a flat face and a perpendicular edge, you can safely use the table saw to rip all the pieces to the same dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2017-06-27T19:58:29.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6158" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-27T21:39:00.193" Score="1" ViewCount="55" Body="&lt;p&gt;newbie here.  I'm about to tackle rebuilding the 180 degree curved, plywood/carpeted stairs in my home with solid 3/4&quot; oak treads and painted hardboard risers.  My question has to do with cutting the arc into the outside edge of the treads - specifically which method to use - router, circular saw or sabre saw. This will be a cross-cut using a trammel and the cut edge will butt against the wall and will not be visible.  Eager to know your thoughts and the thoughts behinds them (like &quot;he's insane&quot;...).   Thanks! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By 180 degrees I mean if I'm standing on the first step and facing north, by the time I climb up the 14 steps, I'll be facing south.  Regardless, the question was the best method to cut a soft arc in oak using a trammel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3870" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2017-06-29T14:05:31.263" LastActivityDate="2017-06-29T14:05:31.263" Title="Curved stairway re-do" Tags="|router|circular-saw|sabre-saw|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6160" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6162" CreationDate="2017-06-28T01:53:11.617" Score="1" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a tree on my property that looks like it's not doing too well this year, leaves are very scanty, and may have to be cut down.  I'd like some help identifying it, so I can determine if it's worth sawing it into boards for woodworking.  It's a tall hardwood about 40-50' in height.  The leaves are maple-like (at least to my eye) but very large.  Last year they were quite abundant, and typically about 6-8&quot; in diameter.  The tree also produced spherical seed pods last year, about quarter-sized. The seed pods are smooth, not spiny. The limbs have a wavy sort of shape to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm located in eastern Maine (the Bangor area).  One relative suggested it might be tulipwood, but nothing I've read online about tulipwood mentions the seed pods.  I haven't seen any blossoms, but that might be because it's in poor health.  (I bought the house in September so I wouldn't have been around for last year's blossoms.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pictures taken June 27:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sEfL3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sEfL3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;tree&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CnD1K.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CnD1K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;leaves&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3OwKQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3OwKQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bark&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1040" LastActivityDate="2017-06-28T02:24:16.880" Title="Can anyone identify this tree?" Tags="|wood-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2017-06-28T14:18:19.903" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6161" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-28T02:02:27.940" Score="1" ViewCount="558" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building some 3x3x16&quot; long L brackets out of 3/4&quot; plywood. I'm planning on using a simple butt joint with a single rabbet and screws to attach the two pieces together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The strips are all bowed/warped slightly. About 1/8&quot; over the 16&quot; length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my specific case, Without the rabbet, I could just glue, clamp, and screw the two pieces together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I try to rabbet the warped plywood, I'm afraid the depth of the rabbet will vary with the warping of the wood and then yielding &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could work for the rabbet as long as there is room above the fence for clamps, but what about a dado?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/shVhK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/shVhK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;straightened workpiece for rabbet&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seemed to work for a rabbet:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3AZgN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3AZgN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question: How can I rabbet or dado a warped plywood strip such that the depth into the wood is consistent? Convex side up or down? What if there's a veneer/finished side and there's no option to choose which side?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3872" LastEditorUserId="3872" LastEditDate="2017-06-30T14:30:38.867" LastActivityDate="2017-07-05T19:43:40.253" Title="Compensating Rabbet or dado in warped plywood" Tags="|technique|joinery|plywood|warp|dado|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6160" CreationDate="2017-06-28T02:24:16.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending what you mean by &quot;smooth&quot; for the seedpods, sycamore is my best guess, though the bark is not nearly as classically peely as is typical. But the leaf is a dead ringer, and it's sure not tuliptree. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sycamore &lt;em&gt;Platanus occidentalis&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uJIge.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uJIge.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sycamore leaf from depauw univerity&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3TcTk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3TcTk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sycamore fruit from depauw univerity&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tulip Poplar, AKA tuliptree &lt;em&gt;Liriodendron tulipifera&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YKCAC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YKCAC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;tulip poplar leaf from depauw univerity&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OrkfM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OrkfM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;tulip poplar fruit from depauw univerity&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3334" LastActivityDate="2017-06-28T02:24:16.880" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6156" CreationDate="2017-06-28T07:16:43.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it a problem to cut the 8' board into more manageable lengths (2-3') before jointing / planing them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not at all, in fact it's fairly standard practice to roughly size, then complete sizing/shaping on the pieces. As long as you don't leave yourself with too little width or thickness there shouldn't be any problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will I wind up with workpieces that are slightly different sizes by going this route?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would you normally if the same project were being made from multiple boards you'd bought in rather than boards you'd cut from a larger piece? There's no difference at the end of the day, consistency is entirely up to the processes used and checking/double-checking of dimensions as you go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-07-06T18:48:50.350" LastActivityDate="2021-07-06T18:48:50.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6164" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6165" CreationDate="2017-06-28T18:53:09.650" Score="3" ViewCount="1219" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm almost ready to mount a face vise on the workbench I built, and it didn't come with instructions, but I see it has holes to attach it into the bottom and/or the front of the workbench top.  The workbench top is approximately 3.5&quot; thick, and the faces of the vise are not that tall.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gHsFU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gHsFU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;vise&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I attach it from below, screwing into the bottom of the workbench, allowing the threaded screw and rods to be visible if you look under the bench, and also screw the rear face into the front of the bench?  This would make the tops of the vise faces a couple inches below the top of the workbench.  Would I then add wooden jaw liners that are taller than the vise faces to end up with a clamping area that is flush with the bench top?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, should I attach it by drilling into the front face of the bench top to make holes for the screw and other two rods, and ignoring the bottom mounting holes, to get the vise faces flush with the top to begin with?  It seems like a drawback here would be that if I need to plane the bench top flat in the future, I would end up with a vise now mounted slightly above the top of the bench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3638" LastActivityDate="2017-06-28T20:10:18.073" Title="Vise Alignment/Mounting" Tags="|vises|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6164" CreationDate="2017-06-28T20:10:18.073" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's perfectly ok to have the vise mounted lower than the benchtop for exactly the reason of flattening the benchtop later. Also, it is common to drill or cut dog holes into the benchtop in-line with a vise so you can use bench dogs (pegs) to increase your clamping capacity far beyond the typical 4-8&quot; of an inexpensive vise. The vise pictured in your question does not have a dog built in, but you could add a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/clamping/attach-dog-to-bench-vise&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;jaw liner with removable dog(s)&lt;/a&gt; or buy a vise that does have a pop-up dog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2017-06-28T20:10:18.073" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6167" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6170" CreationDate="2017-06-28T23:44:55.270" Score="3" ViewCount="626" Body="&lt;p&gt;A number of years ago one of the legs on our sofa broke off. The dowel holding the foot to the framed snapped. Now that I've got my hobby, I'm looking to affix the leg. I've drilled out most of the dowel in the keg and sofa frame, but it occurred to me that my 3/4&quot; dowel rod might yield a stronger leg then the previous 1/2&quot; whatever they used (looks like poplar or pine). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The feet are 2&quot; square where they connect to the frame, and about 6&quot; long, tapering to 2/3&quot; square at the ground. Not 100% sure what species of wood for the frame, but it's definitely not pine. Best guess is maple or poplar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would drilling the larger hole compromise the foot or sofa frame? How &quot;deep&quot; into each piece do I need the dowel to go?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3137" LastEditorUserId="3137" LastEditDate="2017-06-28T23:58:04.877" LastActivityDate="2017-06-29T08:11:28.793" Title="Replacing a 1/2 dowel with a 3/4 dowel" Tags="|furniture|dowel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6167" CreationDate="2017-06-29T02:20:07.103" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's unlikely that going from a 1/2&quot; hole to a 3/4&quot; hole will cause the frame to fail, but not impossible; Just highly unlikely. The foot, at 2&quot; square, should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A ball-park minimum would be twice the diameter into each part (so 1-1/2&quot; deep holes, 3 inch long dowel.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something that new workers often underestimate is how difficult it is to drill the holes into both  parts adequately straight, so that the leg ends up attached straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3334" LastActivityDate="2017-06-29T02:20:07.103" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6167" CreationDate="2017-06-29T08:11:28.793" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;but it occurred to me that my 3/4&quot; dowel rod might yield a stronger leg then the previous 1/2&quot; whatever they used &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would, but the strength might not really be needed. 1/2&quot; dowel in a good wood is very strong as long as there isn't grain 'runout' (grain should run as straight as possible along the dowel, not at an angle to the length).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you could drill the holes out* I doubt going up to 3/4&quot; would be a problem, it's only 1/8&quot; extra around the perimeter of the hole after all and that's unlikely to be significant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But for simplicity I'd stick with 1/2&quot; and just make sure to use a hardwood dowel (a strong hardwood, something better than poplar). From drilling out the remains of the previous dowel and cleaning out glue in the holes if they end up a little oversize so there's wiggle room in either the foot or the frame of the sofa I'd recommend you glue in with epoxy, not regular wood glue because the latter isn't a good gap-filling adhesive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any standard hardware-store epoxy will do just fine. If it's a little runny when mixed blend in a little wood dust if you have it, this is a standard way of thickening epoxy. Don't laugh but if you don't have enough sanding dust available you could use wheat flour instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Note that it can be challenging to enlarge a drilled hole and keep it centred and straight at the same time which is another reason you might want to stick with the existing diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-06-29T08:11:28.793" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="924" CreationDate="2017-06-29T17:03:07.217" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest difference in aging between the two you'll find is that BLO &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; darken over time, whereas pure tung oil won't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3832" LastActivityDate="2017-06-29T17:03:07.217" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6161" CreationDate="2017-06-29T18:09:11.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clamp a strip of wood or metal parallel along the plywood near where the dado is to be cut. This hopefully straighten out the plywood and allow you to run it through the table saw and achieve a consistent dado depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3690" LastActivityDate="2017-06-29T18:09:11.660" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6173" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6174" CreationDate="2017-06-29T19:04:19.777" Score="3" ViewCount="8786" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been reading about joining pieces of wood at a 90 degree angle, and the religious war between pocket holes and mortise-and-tenon joints. The thing I find fascinating is that both still suggest the use of wood glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand how harsher glues work — typically they essentially melt two materials together. Wood glue on the other hand doesn't seem to do this, instead it just bonds the materials somehow, but I can't see that as being a very strong joint. Through what action do wood glue joints get their strength?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3356" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-01-25T08:27:18.350" LastActivityDate="2020-01-31T07:09:29.343" Title="How does wood glue create strong joints?" Tags="|glue|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6173" CreationDate="2017-06-30T01:12:09.930" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplgtr/fplgtr113/ch09.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a pretty detailed, technical discussion of gluing wood.  There are two primary mechanisms of adhesion: valence forces, and interlocking action.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Valence forces are forces of attraction produced by the interactions of atoms, ions, and molecules that exist within and at the surfaces of both adhesive and adherend. Interlocking action, also called mechanical bonding, means surfaces are held together by an adhesive that has penetrated the porous surface while it is liquid, then anchored itself during solidification.  Here are a couple of key excerpts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Mechanical interlocking is probably the primary mechanism by which adhesives adhere to porous structures, such as wood. Effective mechanical interlocking takes place when adhesives penetrate beyond the surface debris and damaged fibers into sound wood two to six cells deep. Deeper penetra- tion into the fine microstructure increases the surface area of contact between adhesive and wood for more effective me- chanical interlocking. The most durable structural bonds to wood are believed to develop not only when an adhesive penetrates deeply into cell cavities, but also when an adhe- sive diffuses into cell walls to make molecular-level contact with the hemicellulosics and cellulosics of wood. If an adhe- sive penetrates deeply enough into sound wood and becomes rigid enough upon curing, the strength of the bond can be expected to exceed the strength of the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's lots more information in the referenced document if this doesn't answer your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2276" LastActivityDate="2017-06-30T01:12:09.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6173" CreationDate="2017-06-30T12:59:41.660" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Specifically,  wood glue matches the functional structure of wood. Woodglue tends to be PVA - polyvinylalcohol- which is made of long chains with lots of alcohol or hydroxy (meaning -OH functionality in chemistry terms) groups hanging regularly off the chain. &#xA;Wood is a polysaccharide, which is &quot;many sugars&quot;. Sugars tend to have 5 of these OH groups arranged to a mainly carbon skeleton ring. The nature of these OH groups is simular to water, H-O-H.  These groups can interact very strongly with each other and give water it's very high boiling point for such a simple structure. &#xA;The OH groups between the polysaccharides and the PVA generate very strong intermolecular bonds,  as strong or greater than the polysaccharide chains' interactions making up the wood itself. The porous nature of wood just means this glue can penetrate further. The PVA chains are very long (think spaghetti) so all interact and stay bound to each other and the polysaccharides in equal measure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2374" LastActivityDate="2017-06-30T12:59:41.660" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6176" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6186" CreationDate="2017-06-30T22:55:46.433" Score="3" ViewCount="4837" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to cut a piece of wood that will be the top to a ring box. The box is 2.5&quot;x2.5&quot; and 1&quot; thick, I am trying to cut a 45 degree bevel on each side but I am unsure of how I should do this. Would using a mitre saw be the best option or is this piece to small to use a mitre saw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essential I am trying to create this shape (section view):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dx7Fa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dx7Fa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/llpJP.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/llpJP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/llpJP.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the way of tools I have a jigsaw, mitre saw, hand saw, mitre box, chisels, router, palm sander, and a drill press that I can use as a make-shift sander. I could also probably get access to a 10&quot; band saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3728" LastEditorUserId="3728" LastEditDate="2017-07-01T15:32:57.610" LastActivityDate="2017-07-02T22:57:08.957" Title="Cutting a 45 degree bevel on all 4 sides of a small piece of wood" Tags="|technique|miter-saw|boxes|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6177" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-01T06:48:03.023" Score="3" ViewCount="2922" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have always had very unsatisfactory results from the &quot;extra fine&quot; side of my diamond stone (DMT Duosharp Fine/Extra Fine w/ Hardcoat, W8EF-H-WB.) It is supposedly &quot;1200 mesh / 9 micron&quot; (green in DMT's color code) but it never seemed to provide the results people claim it should online. The edges it produces feel very rough to the fingernail, and I always have to go to sandpaper afterwards to get anything that looks flat instead of ragged under a loupe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I did a test today, flattening the back of a 1/4&quot; chisel on the extra fine side of my stone (stone was cleaned beforehand), and then doing the same on a 1000 grit piece of 3M imperial wet or dry sandpaper spray-adhesived onto plate glass. I believe that the sandpaper is using the CAMI grit system which means 1000 grit is ~9 micron, but even if it was using FEPA-P that just means it would be even coarser at ~20 micron or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as technique I am holding the chisel flat on the stone/sandpaper and stroking back and forth with light pressure, holding it at a 45* angle to the axis of motion, lubricating with plain water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference is pretty large to me -- the diamond stone produces a very noticeably scratched surface whereas the sandpaper produces a surface that is MUCH smoother. It's not exactly a mirror surface but it is starting to show a cloudy/blurry reflection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back of chisel after &quot;extra fine&quot; DMT diamond stone:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0bPVV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0bPVV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now taken to $0.70 piece of 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper on glass:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ty6NR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ty6NR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(This difference in surface quality is similar to the difference in edge quality I experience. It is just much easier to photograph a flattening test than the edge itself. When you run a fingernail along the edge produced by the stone you can feel how rough it is!)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand diamond stones would cut more aggressively than silicon carbide, but this just seems like a wild difference. I can think of a lot of reasons why I might be getting this result, but first I want to ask, &lt;strong&gt;is this really what a 1200 mesh diamond stone should be doing to my tools?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comparison of 1200/Extra Fine (left) and 600/Fine (right) on either side of a 2 inch/51mm putty knife for comparison:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N9bl0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N9bl0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3824" LastEditorUserId="3824" LastEditDate="2017-07-03T22:40:11.113" LastActivityDate="2020-03-28T08:45:34.803" Title="Is my &quot;extra fine&quot; diamond sharpening stone coarser than it should be, or am I crazy?" Tags="|sharpening|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6176" CreationDate="2017-07-01T13:04:22.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what you are trying to do . Do you want a chamfered edge or a pyramid like top?  Note that cutting small pieces using spinning blades such as a tablesaw or miter saw is dangerous.  Work with larger/longer pieces or wood to shape the piece and then cut it to length/depth afterwards.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are beveling the edges, this can be accomplished with a hand plane or sander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a pyramid top you can use a tablesaw, miter saw, band saw, or handsaw.  Then sand it to perfection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2017-07-01T13:04:22.230" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6179" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-01T22:58:37.573" Score="2" ViewCount="594" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have a weird spot on a walnut headboard I was hoping that someone could help me with. See the picture below. There is a cloudy whiteish looking spot in the middle of the headboard. It only shows if the light hits it just right. Im wondering what when wrong and how to prevent it next time. Also, is there anything I can do now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I finished the headboard in watco Danish oil natural color and before that sanded through the grits 80 - 120 - 220 with a random orbit sander. After sanding, I wiped the Danish Oil on as directed on the can. In between coats, I sanded lightly by hand with 600 grit wet/dry paper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tQXWo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2087" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2019-02-03T08:02:55.603" LastActivityDate="2019-12-03T05:03:10.500" Title="Cloudy whiteish looking spot on my finish - what happened?" Tags="|finishing|random-orbit-sander|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6176" CreationDate="2017-07-02T04:31:59.403" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you have access to a router, you could use a &lt;em&gt;45° Chamfer bit&lt;/em&gt;. I used a similar bit to create the same (but smaller) bevels on MDF plinths we installed all throughout the house. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you already have one, a quick Google/Amazon search should turn up a bit with the shank diameter that your router needs, with a 1&quot; radius. Also, make sure your bit has a bearing, as that'll help you keep your cut depth consistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy routing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2684" LastActivityDate="2017-07-02T04:31:59.403" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6182" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-02T17:10:32.913" Score="3" ViewCount="6911" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a small project during which I drill hundreds of little holes (the largest of which is 1/8 in.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, I have always started with this process, then added ornamental carvings/burnings, then done my routering, and finally, my finishing stain/varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I observed that I must spend a lot of time with a nail to work the holes again as they get a but of liquid down them during this last process. Fine by me, part of the point of the coating is protection so a little extra work to preserve that is not an issue.  At least this is what I was thinking 10 years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now however, I'd be willing to bet that the depth and uniformity of the Varathane is not complete or homogeneous in a hole nor will it be consistent across holes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Masking isn't an option, the holes are too close together, and there isn't really a huge concern about load bearing requirements or precision tolerances (as I mentioned before, I can rework/reopen the hole with a nail), so basically I'm wondering if the protective finish will actually be adequately getting into the holes to actually provide a benefit, or if I'm just better off doing it at the end and knowing that the holes are unfinished. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="729" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2017-07-05T18:41:16.557" LastActivityDate="2017-07-05T18:41:16.557" Title="Should I apply my stain/varnish before or after drilling hundreds of tightly packed little holes" Tags="|finishing|wood|varnish|holes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6177" CreationDate="2017-07-02T17:10:49.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Give it a little while, it will ease up.  It even mentions this in the DMT guide, that the stones come a little rough and eventually settle at the specified grit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a warning, be very careful around the EDGES of those stones until they have some use on them.  I was pretty disappointed that my $120 diamond stone (600/1200x) for plane blades had a burr/lip thing near the edges, so after opening the stone and sharpening the plane blade I seriously dinged up the edge.  It only needed a little honing.  Had to take it back to like 320 grit and grind out the nicks in the bevel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that these diamond stones never seem to cut as well (quickly or evenly) as sandpaper or waterstones to me.  But the benefit is that they don't need to be replaced.  Window cleaner works great to help clear out the swarf and lubricate everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3135" LastActivityDate="2017-07-02T17:10:49.827" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6185" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-02T22:43:30.587" Score="6" ViewCount="1323" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 10in craftsman table saw with the fence. How would I square up the sides of a 1x6x4ft board? Would i need jig of some kind. Or would using circular with a straight edge be better.  Mainly looking for proper technique using a table saw.  Thanks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3889" LastActivityDate="2017-07-05T00:56:09.490" Title="How to square a long board" Tags="|technique|table-saw|jig|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6176" CreationDate="2017-07-02T22:57:08.957" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally, being rather new to woodworking, I refrain from providing answers to people's questions, but I think I have a method that might help here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you start out with an oversized piece of wood (say, 3x4x1) you should be able to clamp a sacrificial board to your piece and cut at least 3 of the 4 sides with the mitre saw set to a 45° cut. For the last side, I'd recommend clamping into a mitre box and using a hand saw. Cleaning up the piece with sanding should be fairly easy at that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3137" LastActivityDate="2017-07-02T22:57:08.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6185" CreationDate="2017-07-03T11:40:27.753" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you already have a straight edge on your board, your fence will just replicate the errors of one edge to the other.  What you need is a straight edge jig. It's fairly easy to build.  Here's an example from the Wood Magazine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/tablesaw/straight-edge-cutting-jig&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YaekY.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Straight Edge Jib&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=straight+edge+jig+table+saw+&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;many videos on YouTube&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastActivityDate="2017-07-03T11:40:27.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6185" CreationDate="2017-07-04T15:56:03.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A jointer if you have one is a better way of squaring the edge of the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Set the board with the face you already jointed to the fence of the jointer and make a pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can square up the other edge with the table saw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2017-07-04T15:56:03.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6185" CreationDate="2017-07-05T00:56:09.490" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simplest procedure is to use a fence and a feather. It looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sCPOh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sCPOh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can either buy them or make them. Use scrap wood to adjust the feather and the fence until they are perfectly straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a carpenter's square to determine whether each of your four corners is square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2017-07-05T00:56:09.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6192" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-05T02:25:38.607" Score="4" ViewCount="412" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen add-ons for turning a dremel rotary tool into a router or drill press, though I question the soundness of its use for large woodworking projects. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be feasible to construct a rig to allow a heavier duty drill press to &quot;flip&quot; under the table and function as a router? Or to rotate 90° to the horizontal and operate as a lathe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3137" LastActivityDate="2017-07-05T15:21:21.317" Title="Is it possible to make a combination tool?" Tags="|power-tools|lathe|router-table|drill|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6192" CreationDate="2017-07-05T02:55:20.897" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. The spindle of a drill press is much more flimsy than that of a lathe or router. It cannot withstand sideways pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A drill press has its spindle in a special construction called a &quot;quill&quot; that allows the spindle to move up and down. This is very useful for drilling, but the compromise is that the drill press is that it is not designed to take sideways pressures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drill presses can only be used for milling if the material is very soft like plastic or soft woods and the cuts are very light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2017-07-05T02:55:20.897" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6192" CreationDate="2017-07-05T03:13:09.580" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is what the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shopsmith.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shopsmith&lt;/a&gt; brand tools are known for. They sell tools in a couple of different configurations, such as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shopsmith.com/mark7site/index.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shopsmith Mark V&lt;/a&gt; or the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shopsmith.com/mark7site/index.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shopsmith Mark 7&lt;/a&gt;. Different configurations allow you to set up the tool and use it as a variety of different shop tools, depending on what is supported by the particular model:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Table saw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lathe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill press&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disc sander&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Horizontal boring&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Router&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shaper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pros of having such a multitool are price and shop space. The most obvious cons is the time to switch between tool configurations. Another downside is that any tool that tries to do more than one job tends not to do any of them as well as a dedicated tool. And another con is the same as the first pro: its cost. It's true that you pay less for the multitool than you would for the full set of dedicated tools. But since it can do so much, it is still fairly expensive. It might be cheaper to buy just the one or two dedicated tools you are most likely to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As always, there are trade-offs. Shopsmith has been selling their multitools since the 1950s. Plenty of people have used them and found them to be perfectly serviceable for their needs. If you have a small shop and are looking to maximize tooling for the space, and if you don't mind the tool changeover time, then multitools like this are something you might want to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2017-07-05T03:13:09.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6192" CreationDate="2017-07-05T14:14:43.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drills operate at a much slower (factor of 10) rotational speed than routers (~28,000 rpm for routers, ~3000 rpm for drill presses; both should be slower for larger bits). It's therefore not possible (or very impractical) to put a router bit in a drill press and do anything substantial with it. You would need a way to make the drill spin much, much faster, and you can't do that with a jig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lathes do operate at similar rotational speeds as drill presses, and they do make &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B005W16YJS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;attachments / products&lt;/a&gt; for using your drill press this way (thanks @CharlieKillian!). I would be wary of turning any very hard wood on this, though, but it should work fine for smaller or infrequent projects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/how-to/mortising-and-sanding-with-a-drill-press/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;can&lt;/a&gt; also do is use your drill press as a poor-man's spindle sander, and there are products &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00004Y9EV&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;available&lt;/a&gt; specifically for this (and also for using your drill press as a mortising machine). There are also numerous videos online on making your own sanding drums for your drill press. Again, though, the drill press is not designed to withstand sideways forces. If you're careful to not apply too much pressure when sanding, this can work just fine and not break your drill press. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastEditorUserId="2524" LastEditDate="2017-07-05T15:21:21.317" LastActivityDate="2017-07-05T15:21:21.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6196" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-05T17:58:45.370" Score="2" ViewCount="1793" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know I've used these before: Hard sticks for standard 7/16&quot; diameter glue guns designed to fill holes so they can hold wood screws.  The advantage over other wood fillers is that (1) it can be pumped in hot at low viscosity to really fill up inaccessible voids, and then (2) it's ready to work as soon as it cools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sticks I used to use were so rigid at room temperature they would snap easily, but I haven't been able to find any hot melt sticks that don't bend quite a bit (which means they wouldn't be as good at holding a screw tight).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of materials like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastEditorUserId="94" LastEditDate="2017-07-06T16:22:57.817" LastActivityDate="2017-07-06T16:22:57.817" Title="Hot melt wood filler sticks for glue guns" Tags="|holes|filler|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6182" CreationDate="2017-07-05T18:39:40.783" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have a small project during which I drill hundreds of little holes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a cribbage board, but you don't say for sure.  In any case, you do mention that having finish inside the holes isn't strictly necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to add that getting total, complete coverage of finish in every nook and cranny of a piece is not entirely necessary.  Take a look at just about any antique piece of furniture and you'll find that the &quot;show&quot; sides have a finish applied and the &quot;non-show&quot; sides don't.  Heck, often times, the craftsman wouldn't even take the non-show side past rough planing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to answer your question, finish first, drill after.  If you're using brad point drill bits, they should be able to leave a nice, clean hole through the finish.  If you're using a close-grained wood (like maple) you'll get better results than using an open-grained wood (like red oak).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2017-07-05T18:39:40.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6161" CreationDate="2017-07-05T19:43:40.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a router to make the rabbet or dado. You'd still run into problems if the warping of the plywood is significant even at the size of your router base, but if it's that badly warped you may not want to use the piece to begin with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clamp straightedges on either side of your dado, offset from your dado by the distance between your router bit and the edge of your router base. This will also serve to flatten the boards a bit more. If your router bit is not sized the same as your dado width (very likely), make it in 2 or more passes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastActivityDate="2017-07-05T19:43:40.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6199" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-06T03:07:24.203" Score="1" ViewCount="217" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not a woodworker, but my dad is pretty handy and he has lots of woodworking tools and machinery so I'm familiar with the craft. I recently stumbled across &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.etsy.com/listing/122763816/reflex-photo-camera-lens-wooden-ceiling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this incredible piece&lt;/a&gt; online and I'm puzzled at how it was made. The only machine I know that that can cut with both such precision and intricacy would be a CNC mill/router. Are there any more conventional machines that could also be used to make a piece like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, you would need a really big block of wood to make such a large piece- nothing like I've ever seen at the Home Depot. Is there a formal name for the &quot;big block of wood&quot; that you would need? And where could you find one? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3901" LastActivityDate="2017-07-09T20:02:53.790" Title="How is this large and intricate piece made with such precision?" Tags="|technique|tool-selection|wood-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6196" CreationDate="2017-07-06T07:12:09.523" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hotmelt.com/blogs/blog/knot-tec-knot-filling-wood-repair&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This blog/ad&lt;/a&gt; mentions two wood filler products, one of which can be sanded/trimmed. It's outrageously expensive, but it was the only one I could find. Try adding &quot;polyamide&quot; to your search, as I believe that's the material glue-stick wood filler is usually made from. You might also be able to buy PUR (heat-activated polyurethane hot melt) intended for this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3550" LastEditorUserId="3550" LastEditDate="2017-07-06T10:32:40.507" LastActivityDate="2017-07-06T10:32:40.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6199" CreationDate="2017-07-06T08:12:38.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The only machine I know that that can cut with both such precision and intricacy would be a CNC mill/router. Are there any more conventional machines that could also be used to make a piece like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is almost certainly done via CNC. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible to make something like this purely by manual processes, all you have to do is look up historical wood carving to see what's possible from the hands of a true master carver (e.g. Grinling Gibbons). But in this case 99.99% chance it's CNCed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Lastly, you would need a really big block of wood to make such a large piece- nothing like I've ever seen at the Home Depot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may not be made from a single piece of wood. In fact it would tend to be stronger and more stable if made from a 'lamination' or glue-up from a number of pieces*. I think I can make out a join line in one of the photos so the starting block might have been glued together from 2-3 pieces. If they're producing these in number I'd expect that they're generally, possibly always, using glue-ups as their starting point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past it was much more common to use single large pieces for a number of reasons. The first is simply that there was much more wood available, much of it of high quality, and from this they could select the best pieces possible. The wood then was exclusively air-dried (drying in a kiln tends to make wood more brittle) and it could have been dried for many years (seasoned) which together make for much better wood. Even today in workshops with high standards pieces of wood can be put aside to season in a storeroom for &lt;em&gt;years&lt;/em&gt; after they come in, despite being dry enough to work upon arrival.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a formal name for the &quot;big block of wood&quot; that you would need? And where could you find one? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the part of the world you're in there are traditional names for pieces of wood of specific sizes and lengths, but often today you'd just buy by dimensions. So you might simply say &quot;I need a piece X by X by X.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the UK you'd generally need to go to a sawmill or timber merchants (sawmill or lumber yard in the US) for larger pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Not the same sort of thing but the wooden countertop material offered by Ikea for example, its construction is based on the same principle — even if single boards of beech could be found that were the same dimensions they would be &lt;em&gt;far&lt;/em&gt; less stable, virtually guaranteed to warp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-07-06T08:12:38.473" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6202" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-06T20:46:31.657" Score="8" ViewCount="3222" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've began woodworking as a hobby a few months ago and so far I've been using just a circular saw, and all the cuts were done in the balcony due to the insane amounts of sawdust that it produces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've recently acquired a contractor style table saw and would love to start using it, but it's gotten so hot outside that I think it could actually ruin the motor of the saw and let's just say it won't be easy for myself either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyhow, we might have a &quot;free&quot; room in the apartment soon and I was wondering about dust. I was &quot;warned&quot; about tiny airborne particles that could potentially fill the entire apartment and kill us all. OK, I'm exaggerating a bit (I hope), but anyhow, assuming the door is always closed and it's got that rubber thing around it to block noise, is it still dangerous?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a shop vac, as far as dust collection is concerned. Still, lots of sawdust is expected to come out through the top, so it's not gonna be perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you think?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3907" LastEditorUserId="2524" LastEditDate="2017-07-06T21:24:28.543" LastActivityDate="2017-07-20T19:13:12.297" Title="Using a table saw in an apartment room" Tags="|table-saw|safety|sawdust|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6202" CreationDate="2017-07-06T21:23:40.553" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lots of people have shops in their basements with no big problems, so it is possible to work inside. Dust will be a concern, as you've noted, but noise will as well. Make sure to wear hearing protection and a dust mask. I'd check the noise levels outside the room, as it may be unbearable for others in your apartment or in other apartments. If that's the case, you may just have to deal with the heat outside - it won't damage the motor in your saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contractor style table saws aren't the best with dust collection, but if it has a port at the bottom, definitely use it. If not, you may want to rig up some kind of DIY dust collection port for it. Most (but not all) of the dust on a table saw comes out the bottom. You may also consider an over-the-blade type of dust collection, although that may start to tax your little shop vac.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have an air return in that room for central air, you want to make sure it at least has a filter on it, or all that dust is gonna circulate throughout your apartment. You may consider covering up the return, or even turning off any forced air climate control, while you're using the saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other thing you can consider is an air cleaner cart - essentially a motor with some furnace filters around it to catch dust. &lt;a href=&quot;https://jayscustomcreations.com/2016/03/building-a-shop-air-cleaner/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jay Bates&lt;/a&gt; has a &lt;a href=&quot;https://jayscustomcreations.com/2016/05/mobile-air-cleaner-cart/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;couple videos&lt;/a&gt; detailing his builds, so check them out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing you didn't mention, but you should definitely check, is the power requirements for the saw. Apartments may not have each room on its own circuit, so it may be difficult to run the saw and not trip a breaker. If that happens, you'll just have to go back to using the circular saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastActivityDate="2017-07-06T21:23:40.553" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6204" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-07T02:31:13.243" Score="3" ViewCount="490" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U7NQQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U7NQQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;I just got into woodworking and have ran into a problem.  I recently completed a farmhouse coffee table for a friend and encountered a problem when gluing on the table top.  I used 6 dowels for alignment along the frame.   For the table I  had 6 poplar boards 3&quot;W X 32&quot;L x 3/4&quot; T glued together using loose mortise and tenon joints.  After gluing I noticed a good amount of warping, too much to plane out.  I counted on the glue holding them in place and it appeared that it was working, but one corner keeps popping up.  Is there anyway of fixing this problem?  I am using Tightbond 1 for glue.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3908" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2018-10-12T16:59:33.943" LastActivityDate="2019-04-24T19:04:20.120" Title="Table top popping up" Tags="|glue|warp|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6202" CreationDate="2017-07-07T14:07:13.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look at setting up a portable paint booth, and putting the saw inside of it.  These are used when spray painting in garages to keep the over spray off of everything.  It would work just as well in containing the dust.  You can make one easily enough with PVC and some plastic sheeting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to heat damaging the motor, I live in Phoenix and tools sitting in the sun for even a few minutes are way too hot to touch, but they work just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2017-07-07T14:07:13.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6206" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6207" CreationDate="2017-07-07T19:07:28.300" Score="2" ViewCount="5090" Body="&lt;p&gt;A close friend called me for help with a busted chair leg.  I hadn't seen it, but figured I'd probably be considering a good wood glue and some dowels inserted in angled holes to reinforce the thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it turns out, the leg actually cracked approx 2-3 inches from the end, right beneath the corner block that attaches it to the seat.  The end is about two inches square, and it appears to have given way right near where a large screw was inserted -- AND there's a knot just opposite the screw.  The end is more narrow than the rest of the leg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not getting the sense that glue-and-dowels is going to be the right approach.  This isn't high-end furniture.  Are there cost-effective approaches to repairing and reinforcing this (to actually bear weight) without an entire workshop at my disposal?  Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photos:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pJgQN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pJgQN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;This&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Yveo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Yveo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;this&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3912" LastActivityDate="2018-12-12T15:58:16.560" Title="Best approach for this broken chair leg" Tags="|technique|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6206" CreationDate="2017-07-08T14:13:03.397" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like there's a pretty-good chance of a nice fit on the broken surfaces - Might try gluing the parts together on the break, wait for glue to dry, &lt;strong&gt;then&lt;/strong&gt; drill from end for dowel and glue that in. The fact that it's so close to the end makes that practical to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3334" LastActivityDate="2017-07-08T14:13:03.397" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6199" CreationDate="2017-07-09T20:02:53.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see the need for CNC. The body is only 12 inches in diameter. Presumably the body started as a glued-up &quot;cylinder&quot; made up of about 6 to 8 pieces. The body was then turned on a lathe to get the radial features right. The grooves in the body were done by reeding techniques, maybe by hand, maybe with an indexed carriage and a router. The manual/auto switch is a separate piece glued in place. Obviously this requires careful wood selection for uniform color to minimize the visibility of glue lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hood may well be a sheet that was steam-bent into a skirt after the edges were shaped. White cedar is known for its bending ability, and is the traditional choice for wooden canoe ribs for exactly that reason. On the other hand, it might be a chunk of wood which has been turned on a lathe using standard bowl-turning techniques. It is, after all, only about 14 - 15 inches in diameter. Wooden art bowls of 18 or more inch diameter are fairly common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for nomenclature, I'd guess &lt;em&gt;billet&lt;/em&gt; is the term for a biggish chunk of wood. And yes, you'd need to go directly to a wood supplier to get something that big, or perhaps to a sawmill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's exactly the sort of project that the magazine Fine Woodworking used to carry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="463" LastActivityDate="2017-07-09T20:02:53.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4868" CreationDate="2017-07-09T20:11:25.560" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The diagram makes it pretty clear that the case is not wood. That structure, including standoffs and screw holes, is inappropriate for wood, and is most likely injection-molded plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="463" LastActivityDate="2017-07-09T20:11:25.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6133" CreationDate="2017-07-09T20:33:19.980" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you're talking about is timber-frame construction, and you're on the right track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I read somewhere it is best to use fairly fresh cut trees for this, to make the hewing easier.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yup. Green wood is much easier to cut, especially with hand tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;But how long do I need to dry them afterwards before using? If I just seal and use them directly will I risk the whole thing cracking and becoming askew?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't dry them separately. You assemble while still green, and let them dry naturally. With siding, flooring and roofing in place, these will keep the frame from distorting. Of course, the joints are going to loosen up as the wood shrinks, and the beams will check like crazy, but that is not usually a problem. Consider that, if you were to dry the pieces separately, you'd need to stack and sticker them so that the weight of the pile will keep them from warping as they dry, and even then you could count on some distortion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;which woods would be suitable for this? I need to buy the logs, and thought about asking some pine, because it will be cheaper then buying maple logs.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Particularly for a small building like this, pine is the way to go. You don't need the high strength of hardwoods like oak, and the lighter wood will make assembly easier. And maple is an especially poor choice. Even while green it's harder to form, and in the event of leaks in the roofing, any water buildup will quickly lead to rot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;But are all pine threes suitable for this? Or do I need to specifically ask for lariks or Douglas? Or is poplar, or something else worth the extra price?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a small project like this, larch is probably best, since you're looking for locally-grown timber, and as far as i know, larch is the most common softwood in Europe. If you can get pine, that would work just as well. I'm pretty sure that Douglas Fir is a non-starter, being extremely hard to find as green logs in your country. Your building is small enough that almost anything will do from a strength standpoint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="463" LastActivityDate="2017-07-09T20:33:19.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6212" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6213" CreationDate="2017-07-11T13:44:48.267" Score="4" ViewCount="424" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a specific name for the vertical posts with triangular cross-section used to join together the sides of traditionally made apple boxes / crates?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or are these just called something fairly generic like post or cleat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9IN2U.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9IN2U.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="158" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2017-07-13T14:04:26.513" LastActivityDate="2017-07-13T14:04:26.513" Title="joinery terminolgy for posts in apple boxes / crates" Tags="|joinery|terminology|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6212" CreationDate="2017-07-12T08:25:50.157" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are called corner blocks. Also called glue blocks because they were sometimes fixed using glue only*. They can be square in section or triangular as here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CryM3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CryM3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Corner reinforcements&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although possibly most associated with plywood in recent years they were used to reinforce corner joints in thin solid wood prior to plywood becoming available and were also used where strength was needed but proper joinery wasn't possible, so widely used for crates and other boxes that needed to be put together as quickly as possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are still widely used but we're unaware of them because generally they're placed where they don't show, such as in staircase construction, in chairs under the seat or tables underneath the tabletop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BJLYC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BJLYC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Corner blocks&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The underlying principle of these is used in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4506/what-are-these-wooden-posts&quot;&gt;gridbeam&lt;/a&gt;, where a three-way fixing at each corner is possible resulting in very strong and surprisingly rigid joints without glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Not just without nails or screws, but without clamps as well. This was done using a &lt;em&gt;rubbed joint&lt;/em&gt; where glue was applied to the mating surfaces of the block then it was rubbed back and forth to squeeze out the excess until it grabbed firmly and then it was left for the glue to harden (note this is most suitable for hide glues, not really a good idea with PVA and can't be used with epoxy or standard polyurethane adhesives such as the original Gorilla glue).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-07-12T08:25:50.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6215" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-12T18:18:50.580" Score="7" ViewCount="422" Body="&lt;p&gt;This woodworking tool was bought at an auction. It has a cutter on handle and an adjustable stop, with a clamp for dowel. What is it for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RpgUQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RpgUQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;unknown wood working tool with cutter on handle and adjustable stop on end&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QBnxm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QBnxm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;other side of wood working tool&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3922" LastEditorUserId="2524" LastEditDate="2017-07-14T15:05:29.857" LastActivityDate="2017-11-15T03:23:56.727" Title="What is this tool with a clamp for dowel, a cutter on handle, and an adjustable stop?" Tags="|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6131" CreationDate="2017-07-14T00:39:56.373" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently installed a kitchen counter and farm sink. The counter was mahogany butcher block and the finish was a product called &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.butcherblock.com/product/emmets-good-stuff/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Emmets good stuff&lt;/a&gt;&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love that stuff. It was easy to apply and looked great. It is a gell, Applied like a stain, wipe on in the direction of the grain let it sit for a few minutes and wipe off with the grain.  The kitchen has been in use for less than a year but i see no issues at all. I love the satin finish.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2917" LastActivityDate="2017-07-14T00:39:56.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6219" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6223" CreationDate="2017-07-15T14:20:34.957" Score="6" ViewCount="26965" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I purchase wood from the local carpenter a lot of boards are 1-2mm off which results in gaps in my furniture which I usually just fill with silicon. I don't have a sanding machine with a length equal to the board (say 1.5m at max). My local carpenter insists that errors in the millimeter range are unavoidable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it even possible to do this accurately with handheld tools?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3934" LastActivityDate="2017-07-16T07:23:44.330" Title="How do I shave off a few millimeters from a board?" Tags="|sanding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6220" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-15T19:07:04.767" Score="1" ViewCount="196" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would a jigsaw be a suitable tool for cutting Paulownia wood across the grain?  If so, what sort of blade should I use for the job.  If not, what would be the best way of going about it?  The material I want to cut is 18mm thick.  I'd much appreciate any tips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3935" LastActivityDate="2017-07-15T19:07:04.767" Title="Cutting Paulownia wood with a jigsaw" Tags="|cutting|jigsaw|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6221" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-15T19:38:08.717" Score="1" ViewCount="2399" Body="&lt;p&gt;PLEASE: IF responding to this post, do NOT reply unless you know the difference between Raw/Pure/Unadulterated Tung Oil, Polymerized Tung Oil, and what is marketed as &quot;Tung Oil Finish&quot; -- or tell me why Raw/Pure Tung Oil is bad, and other finished are better, or to sand everything off and use Poly or Varnish instead. I have used Raw/Pure Tung Oil (100% Pure Raw Tung Oil from Real Milk Paint company) MANY times with great success, and this is my first problem. I am mid-way through this project, and am only interested in replies from those with EXPERIENCE with Raw Tung Oil that address what I should do NOW to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm finishing a table with Acacia/Rubberwood butcher block type top and it seems that the large pores of the Acacia are giving me trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I followed the usual steps I always do: flooding with 50/50 Tung/Citrus Solvent for the first application, 75/25 for the 2nd, and about 85/15 or 90/10 for the third.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second and third coats I also wet-sanded the oil in using 0000 Steel Wool and then wiped the sludge away thoroughly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Between each coat, I wiped all excess oil off and waited for at least 4 days in between each. It took much longer to dry than I've ever experienced. But I know each coat was DRY (not of course CURED) -- because between each, I sanded lightly with either 220 sandpaper or the Steel Wool, and the dust was a fine white powder - no gummy residue, indicating it was dry enough to add another coat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I live in FL, but I have the table inside where it is normally air-conditioned to 76 degrees, so the humidity is NOT high. To aid in the drying I turned the AC down to 72 so the air would be even drier.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After each coat, I noticed that the oil was continually seeping out of the pores, so I was wiping it off about every 15-20 minutes for the first 8-12 hours, and then several times a day for the next 2-3 days. Again, I've never experienced this before, and I'm sure it has to do with the large pores of the Acacia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, the first 2 coats went on fine and were completely dry before applying the next coat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the third application, I kept wiping and buffing as usual, and all was fine until the third morning when I checked it, oil had seeped out overnight and DRIED, so now there are dozens of tiny spots that are glossier than the rest of the table. They're not white -- just glossier than the rest of the table -- and you can only see them if you look at the table close to eye level in certain light, but the table is not as smooth where the dried oil is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an attempt to fix, I tried sanding with 0000 Steel Wool and then wiping down with pure Citrus Solvent - and then it was like a dam broke, and oil was seeping out of the pores all over! I was able to wipe that away, but the previously dried spots are still there - the steel wool and Citrus Solvent didn't touch them. Also, the Citrus Solvent seemed to dry out the rest of the table and make it duller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a small section of the table, I tried using a 3M white Final Finishing Pad (which is like a Scotchbrite &quot;scrubby&quot;) and a bit of Tung to see if that would break up the dried spots, but that did nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan was to do 1-2 more final coats, this time of 100% pure Tung - no Citrus Solvent. However, I don't want to do that until I know the best way to proceed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I wait for several weeks to make sure the oil IN the pores is fully cured, and then sand and do a coat of pure Tung Oil, wet-sanding in various steps from medium to fine, to try to get rid of the spots?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, if I wait for it to thoroughly dry, and sand, and then just apply the pure Tung, will the Tung eventually build up so the rest of the table is as glossy as the spots, so it won't be noticed? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, if I wait for several weeks and apply Polymerized Tung -- which has a glossier finish -  will that bring the rest of the table to the level of gloss of the pores, making it uniform? I've never used Polymerized Tung before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really do not want to sand everything off and start over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice would be appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3936" LastActivityDate="2023-01-20T18:48:10.390" Title="Raw/Pure Tung Oil finish - seeping issues" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6219" CreationDate="2017-07-16T07:23:44.330" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;By hand I'm afraid there's no easy way to remove excess material from the edges of chipboard (particleboard for those in the US). In general the idea is to saw it to the exact size you need because it's so difficult to alter afterwards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Planing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can plane the edges of chipboard with one or more types of hand plane, but the glue in chipboard is extremely hard and very abrasive to cutting edges so with most plane irons you have to stop frequently to resharpen, making the process very slow and difficult to rely on even to shave off a small amount every now and then. And 2mm is not a small amount when it comes to chipboard, even with the thinner stuff. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Belt sander&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A hand-held belt sander with a coarse belt fitted would be a much better way to remove this much from the edges, particularly with the 30mm, although I realise this may not be an option for you for any number of reasons. In addition to the (possibly high) cost of the sander and the (possibly high) ongoing cost of replacement belts the large amounts of dust produced could be a big issue for you*. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Power saws&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It's not a standard use but it is theoretically possible to nibble away material using a circular saw (and for thinner material a jigsaw) running the baseplate along a straightedge set up an appropriate distance from the edge. I wouldn't want to recommend this though unless you already have one so can easily test it out at no cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Surform&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I'm not sure how widely available Surform-like tools are in other markets but I've read they can be used for gross material removal from chipboard edges. How accurate you can be with one I don't know but I presume a lot of that is down to the skill of the user. Despite how crude the tool looks it could be used with finesse, just like with a conventional rasp. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My local carpenter insists that errors in the millimeter range are unavoidable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's important to state that they may be unavoidable &lt;em&gt;for him&lt;/em&gt;, but that far greater accuracy than this is possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sub-millimetre accuracy is perfectly feasible using good power tools set up and used correctly, with accurate initial marking up as needed. Commercial cabinetry could easily have accuracies in the 0.2mm range to you an idea of the level of accuracy possible, although I believe +/-0.5mm might be fairly typical.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that said, I'd prefer better but accuracy of 1mm either way might be acceptable to me for chipboard furniture depending on the application. 2mm would not, especially if short!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Even with dust extraction some to a lot of dust can still be released (depends on model and the power of the vacuum attached). The dust from chipboard needs to be considered hazardous and breathing protection should be considered a must.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-07-16T07:23:44.330" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6224" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6226" CreationDate="2017-07-16T08:15:57.973" Score="5" ViewCount="621" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Please note that I tried to break this question up into  three relevant sections, separated by the large headers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Here's what happened to the cabinet&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was moving an empty wood file cabinet down some stairs; I goofed, which caused the back casters to get ripped out of the bottom of the wood part of the cabinet. As a result, on the bottom face, and part of the back edge on the cabinet were damaged. I'll need some wood filler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NLV72.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NLV72.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how the cabinet &amp;amp; casters look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Here's my plan&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Resources I have&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm able to clamp a board along the edge to keep it straight. I also have all kinds of glue, I was able to recover some parts of the MDF that came loose (I have sawdust, I have access to scrap paper (for paper pulp), I have similar veneer, I have similar stain, and I have a few other relevant tools for the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Planned Approach&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fixing the MDF: I'm planning on mixing a glue/sawdust/wood-filler/mdf/sawdust mixture up, clamping the board in place, applying the glue, letting the glue dry, removing the clamps and board, and then sanding it down.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fixing the edge: If it looks good; I won't veneer it over. However, if it's bad, I'll sand it all down, and then apply new veneer. After the veneer's applied, I'll finish it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Reapplying the casters: For this step, I'll just put them further towards the front slightly, maybe an inch or two depending on what I need. This will be done to ensure the casters are secured.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Clarification on the question &amp;amp; Answers I'd like&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clarification&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;My main question is with regards in the wood filler used. The bottom panel of the cabinet is maybe 3/4&quot; thick, and of that 3/4&quot; maybe 1/8&quot; or 1/16&quot; is affected by the missing mdf. I want it to be smooth when I remove the clamped board, so that minimal wood filler sticks to it. I.E., when I remove the board I don't want to take any MDF with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Answers I'd like&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a specific kind of filler that would set well? If so, how much sawdust do I use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you friends!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3740" LastActivityDate="2017-07-17T07:31:36.263" Title="Is this a good approach to fixing damaged mdf holes along the edge?" Tags="|finishing|wood-repair|mdf|refinishing|surface-preparation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6224" CreationDate="2017-07-17T07:31:36.263" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Fixing the MDF: I'm planning on mixing a glue/sawdust/wood-filler/mdf/sawdust mixture up, clamping the board in place, applying the glue, letting the glue dry, removing the clamps and board, and then sanding it down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will likely work fine as far as making a cohesive fill that's strong enough. I've repaired small defects in MDF and hardboard in much this way myself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For MDF I would generally use a mix of PVA glue and MDF sawing dust (I keep a small amount in a jar for precisely this purpose). As a rule this filler tends to be perfectly adequate, in fact what often happens is the fill ends up harder and denser than the surrounding material :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think there are two important tips here that will help ensure a good result:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lightly dampen the surfaces of the MDF prior to the fill going on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Protect the face of the clamped-on board from the filler.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can dampen with just water, but dilute glue is better. Depending on the thickness of your glue you might dilute it 25-50%, aiming for a consistency a bit thinner than single cream (but you don't have to be too accurate about this). Paint or dab on just enough to dampen the surface before applying the filler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the board that will be clamped in place, it must be protected from the glue or the filler will stick to it just as well as, if not better, than it does to the MDF! Two good ways to do this are to wax it well or to apply some sticky tape. Packing tape is great for this type of thing if you have any. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now after filling...... if this were not veneered there's a decent chance that the fill will look good enough after a light sanding that you'd be happy to leave it as-is (using white PVA at least, the yellow form will make the fill noticeably darker). Because it's veneered though I expect it will stand out like a sore thumb so I think you're going to want to veneer, if a good aesthetically pleasing result is important. But note that if you'll be veneering the fill must be flush with the original surface of the MDF, not flush with the veneered surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alternative approach&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This would be to avoid having to fill. Without a picture of the damage it's hard to know if this would be appropriate but I just thought of it so wanted to throw it out there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could forget about filling and just chamfer the bottom edge of the MDF panel, removing material until the bottom edge is uniformly straight. From normal viewing angles you won't be able to see the chamfer (probably wouldn't matter anyway) and you can be sure it'll give a neat, clean edge where there's some uncertainty with the filler approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go this route it would be worth doing the same to the opposite side's bottom edge. In addition to having them match visually a chamfered edge on MDF is less prone to damage so you'll help it stand up to future use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-07-17T07:31:36.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6227" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6232" CreationDate="2017-07-17T19:29:12.777" Score="6" ViewCount="579" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a dining room table and it has taken me several months to cut all the pieces. Will the glue have any problems sticking to the edges that have been jointed/cut several months ago? I am talking about the top in particular. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1462" LastActivityDate="2017-07-18T19:15:33.237" Title="How long after cutting wood can I wait to glue?" Tags="|finishing|wood|glue|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6227" CreationDate="2017-07-17T21:22:40.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There should be no problem with the adhesion of glue to old surfaces (unless they've been weathered or had some other kind of contamination.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only issue would be if the wood has moved due to seasonal humidity changes.  This could cause the wood to warp (or bow/cup/etc.), causing the joint to no longer align or fit tightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2017-07-17T21:47:18.150" LastActivityDate="2017-07-17T21:47:18.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6229" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6231" CreationDate="2017-07-18T03:46:56.943" Score="12" ViewCount="3826" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm struggling getting my chisels as sharp as I want them to. For example, they &quot;catch&quot; on almost all woods and by no means cut any hairs from my arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've bought the plans and built &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KkKzmN2Qw4k&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;John Heinz's sharpening jig&lt;/a&gt; which took my sharpening to the next level and they are much sharper than before... but still not &lt;em&gt;quite&lt;/em&gt; there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one part in the sharpening process that I'm struggling with is removing the burr. As I'm attempting to deburr one side, it twists and goes to the other. I flip the chisel and the burr twists to the other side again. I can't seem to completely remove it. Some people lay the chisel flat on the stone and push against the edge. Others pull. Others go sideways. They all claim their method yields great results (I can't seem to get rid of the damned thing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I did (all with john heinz's jig):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sand the backside flat with 110, 220, 400 grit. Change to DMT diamond stone and go at it with 600 (25μ) and 1200 (9μ) grit equivalent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do the same thing with the primary bevel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do the same thing with the secondary bevel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a pic with the before (right after I bought it) and after all this process. Note: the weird shape is due to the photo angle; the actual chisel is perfectly square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EaxBr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EaxBr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other people on this site insist that going to 8000 grit is required. Others say that 800 + honing is more than enough. I haven't tried honing my chisels still.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything that I'm doing wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2838" LastActivityDate="2022-01-25T13:48:28.853" Title="How to properly deburr a chisel" Tags="|sharpening|chisel|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6229" CreationDate="2017-07-18T04:57:21.620" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks pretty good to me. It's hard to tell exactly from the pictures, but this is pretty close to what my chisels look like after sharpening. Get some honing compound and either some leather or some MDF scrap, pronto. It will take your chisels from &quot;pretty good&quot; to &quot;holy wow that's amazing&quot; in about 20 or so strokes along the strop. From where they are right now, just the honing compound is going to brighten up the edges of the chisels considerably. The honing compound is going to do largely the same work that working your way up through progressively higher grits does. I'm thinking by the time you are done honing your chisels, they will have a little bit closer to a mirror finish, reflecting things so they are blurry but identifiable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm in the camp that it doesn't matter what they look like. The real test is how well they cut. After stropping, they should very easily shave end grain of a 2x4. The result will fall apart and be a little dusty; it won't be shavings like you'd get if you go with the grain along end grain. It should take a little bit of force, but not a lot -- lightly tapping the chisel with your palm should do it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also test by shaving a bit of hair off my arm. Honing takes them from &quot;ehh, kind of, but not really&quot; to &quot;oh hey yeah, that's taking off hair really easily.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some cheap chisels and I have some half way decent ones**, but nothing high end. The difference is primarily the hardness of the steel and how long they maintain an edge. The cheap ones lose their edge a lot faster than the half way decent ones. Fortunately the fix is easy: Just strop it 8 or so times, and it's honed back up, as good as new. I keep the strop on my bench and every time the chisels start to lose their effectiveness, I strop it a few times and keep working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't stress this enough: Keep the strop on the bench. I didn't do this at first, despite having read this advice a lot. I was tunnel visioned on the idea of sharpening/honing as a process you did once before you used your chisels. Sharpening, yes; honing, no. Honing is something you do before you use them AND periodically during use. My chisels became a true delight to use after I finally remembered to keep the strop on the bench to have available as needed while I was using them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;** In fact, the cheap chisels did me a huge favor at the beginning. I didn't know the difference between a chisel that was sharpened and well honed, and a chisel that had once been honed but had lost its edge. But once I started getting into the habit of keeping the strop on the bench while I worked, I got a better feel for when the chisels were starting to lose their effectiveness and needed honing. And since the softer steel loses its edge quicker, I went through more cycles more quickly and got a feel for when this needs to happen faster than I would have if the chisels had lost their sharpness more slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2017-07-18T04:57:21.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6229" CreationDate="2017-07-18T08:45:41.410" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The one part in the sharpening process that I'm struggling with is removing the burr. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most people do when starting out so don't worry you're not alone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also even experienced sharpeners will experience some difficulty every now and then because this is not only an issue of technique, sometimes the steel itself can be uncooperative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a fairly harsh critic of sharpening books and the sections on sharpening in general woodworking books and this is the main area where I think they fall down. They quite consistently fail to serve their readers because few give a realistic idea of how difficult it can be sometimes to get rid of the last of the burr or wire edge — when user experience with razors &amp;amp; knives, chisels and plane irons has a wealth of anecdotal evidence that says it is quite common for it to be difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, most books just don't devote enough column inches to this (and a few other issues) which can leave beginners, and even more advanced learners, wallowing when they encounter a problem. I know I'm not the only one who has &quot;chased a burr&quot; as it's called for minutes and failed to get it to detach. This can be confusing and disheartening because the books make it sound so easy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As I'm attempting to deburr one side, it twists and goes to the other. I flip the chisel and the burr twists to the other side again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, perfectly normal. Some steels hold on to the burr or wire edge more strongly so it can be much more difficult to remove it &lt;em&gt;on a stone&lt;/em&gt; than in other cases. But once the burr is small enough you can, and IMO most of us should, switch to a different method to get rid of the last of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I can't seem to completely remove it. Some people lay the chisel flat on the stone and push against the edge. Others pull. Others go sideways. They all claim their method yields great results &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of those can work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried them all and had success with all three. Although I have my preference woodworkers I have great respect for use one of the other two and get results at least as good if not better than mine so it's clear they can all work and work well if the user is doing it properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that some steels have a definite preference for edge-trailing, others edge-leading which is something to look into further and experiment with on your own tools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So how do I get rid of the damn burr anyway?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Whatever works. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some older guides* say to run the honed edge sideways through an end-grain block to remove the remaining burr. This basically tears the burr off which sounds a little crude but it can work quite well and I still use this method every now and then for a stubborn burr (as I say, whatever works). But after this I will strop and that refines the edge considerably. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stropping is a great way to finish off honing (&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4722/when-sharpening-how-do-i-assess-what-grit-to-start-on/4735#4735&quot;&gt;or used alone as a honing method&lt;/a&gt;) and once the burr is fine enough virtually any type of stropping will remove it without effort. And stropping is good assurance that a very small burr (too small to see with the naked eye) will be removed if present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to go into more of the things included in your Question below which don't directly relate to the removing the burr.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Sand the backside flat with 110, 220, 400 grit. Change to DMT diamond stone and go at it with 600 (25μ) and 1200 (9μ) grit equivalent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know how much of the back you were doing but just to have it said, on most tools only a very narrow band near the edge needs to be flattened and then worked smooth through the grits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In plane irons it can literally be mere millimetres wide (1/32&quot;-1/64&quot;) while with new chisels the flat area will generally end up wider naturally, often being 20-50mm (~1&quot;-2&quot;) without any special effort made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it's not a mistake to do most or all of the flat of a chisel (or plane iron if you're &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; masochistic) in general it's a waste of time because it doesn't do anything to improve the performance of the tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do the same thing with the primary bevel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a mistake. If you're planning on creating a secondary bevel anyway you can ignore the primary bevel completely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary could literally be formed on 80-grit paper (you can visualise how rough that would be) and you can still leave it because the honing of the secondary will refine the narrow band of steel at the edge which is all that needs to be refined to create the finished sharp edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note: the weird shape is due to the photo angle; the actual chisel is perfectly square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's actually OK if a chisel is slightly out of square. Most freehand sharpeners will creep out of square over time (generally to one side or the other based on which hand is dominant and their overall technique) and it doesn't hamper the usability of the chisel in any meaningful way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Other people on this site insist that going to 8000 grit is required. Others say that 800 + honing is more than enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're both wrong :-) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or they're both right. This is partly a matter for each person to decide for themselves — &quot;How sharp do &lt;em&gt;my&lt;/em&gt; chisels need to be?&quot; — and partly how anal you are about the appearance of the honed surfaces LOL &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two things to bear in mind. The first is that in the West in the past virtually no working woodworkers in cabinet shops or joinery workshops had more than two sharpening stones available to them and the finer one could be classed as a medium at best by today's standards! And yet quite evidently they didn't have an issue with blunt tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second is that the finer the edge created the more it degrades when steel meets wood. The harder the wood the faster the degradation — with many hardwoods within the first 10 or a dozen cuts! So the superb edge created by 8k, 10k and even 30k is usually transient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's much more written about both of these final issues if you want to Google further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Just for completeness I'll mention that very old guides can mention that pros (or &quot;experienced Mechanics&quot; as they might be referred to by the writer) often finish off by stroking the edge across the palm of the other hand but as with those guides I wouldn't generally recommend this to the leisure woodworker for a few reasons, the main one obviously being the potential for injury.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-07-18T08:45:41.410" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6227" CreationDate="2017-07-18T08:53:28.303" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Will the glue have any problems sticking to the edges that have been jointed/cut several months ago?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. Joint failures from wood movement can and do happen if older surfaces are glued. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you're doing a panel glue-up where the glue presumably will have to do all the work (long-grain butt joints) it's critical that you ensure your edges are ready to accept glue for maximum joint strength. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glue surfaces should be freshly worked as much as possible, &lt;em&gt;within the hour if possible&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this sounds nearly impossible for the home woodworker older worked surfaces can be made glue-ready, or 'reactivated', with just a little light sanding according to studies done at the Forest Products Laboratory. A couple of passes with med/fine abrasive should usually be sufficient. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where appropriate, scraping or a very light shaving taken off with a suitable plane can accomplish the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is mostly covered in a previous Q&amp;amp;A, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4151/what-do-i-need-to-do-to-prepare-wood-for-gluing/4159#4159&quot;&gt;What do I need to do to prepare wood for gluing?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2017-07-18T19:15:33.237" LastActivityDate="2017-07-18T19:15:33.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6233" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-18T18:09:28.767" Score="1" ViewCount="375" Body="&lt;p&gt;The whole board feet deal is a little confusing to me. If I have a 2&quot; x 2&quot; x 36&quot; board, how many board feet does that add up to? Is it 1 board foot? Trying to figure out how much to order for a butcher block countertop I'm working on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3945" LastActivityDate="2017-07-18T18:30:54.657" Title="How to calculate board feet for project I'm working on" Tags="|wood|wood-selection|measurement|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2017-07-19T14:06:08.857" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6233" CreationDate="2017-07-18T18:30:54.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A board foot is a measure of volume, answering the question &quot;how much wood?&quot;. It equates to 144 cubic inches; a board 12&quot; x 12&quot; x 1&quot; thick is one board foot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you can calculate the volume in cubic inches and divide by 144:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;2 x 2 x 36 = 144 = 1 board foot&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To calculate this in their head, folks might figure the equivalent board feet of a 12-inch length of the board and then multiply by the length, for example with a 2 x 10 that's 8 feet long:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;2 x 10 = 20; 20/12 = 5/3 board foot per foot&#xA;5/3 x 8 feet = 40/3 = 13-1/3 board feet&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2017-07-18T18:30:54.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="807" CreationDate="2017-07-19T17:08:40.643" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cannot say what the industry standard answer might be, but I recently build a desk from 100% pine.  I'm unsure of the species as I purchased &quot;appearance boards&quot; at Home Depot, but in SouthWest PA that's most likely Eastern White Pine, which has an incredibly low janka hardness (around 400).  The desk top was finished with 7 coats of EM-6000 post-catalyzed acrylic lacquer and rubbed to a perfect gloss.  You didn't mention any coating or finishing method, but I'll assume you'll be using some form of lacquer or poly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been using the desk for just over a month.  It has several computer speakers and a 30+ lbs 30&quot; monitor sitting on it.  I constantly set my phone, stylus, and bluetooth headset down and pick them up many times each day.  I have had hot tea a handful of times.  I'm not rough when placing items on my desk, but I'm also not overly gentle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I have no dents, no nicks, and no easily visible scratches.  With a flashlight I can find a few scratches when lighted just right, but those are definitely in the finish and not the wood.  There is zero deformation under the monitor, which has been in place continually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So from experience I would say almost any wood has sufficient hardness to act as a common desk if properly coated, assuming there are no unusual uses for it.  Scratch resistance of the coating is going to be a more serious concern, especially if hard items like keys are constantly dropped on it.  A poly-urethane is probably a better choice than lacquer, but the lacquer gives such an incredibly deep gloss that I couldn't bare to use anything else myself.  As long as you're finishing the desk top, any wood should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; After over four months of continuous use I stand by this answer.  I recently moved everything off of this desk including my monitor, so that a group of five could play AD&amp;amp;D.  There was a lot of books, constant writing with pens and pencils, leaning by players, cups and glasses of various drinks, and much much rolling of hard dice across the bare lacquer.  I see no deformation from the monitor, books, or leaning, no surface degradation in the wood, and just a few light scratches in the lacquer (I can count them on one hand).  There is a dent in one corner, in the one area that I did not coat properly with the lacquer, and all coated corners (which are in more heavily used areas) show no wear at all, supporting my comment above about making sure you use the right finish for the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastEditorUserId="3949" LastEditDate="2017-10-23T13:24:24.430" LastActivityDate="2017-10-23T13:24:24.430" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6236" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-19T17:23:08.740" Score="8" ViewCount="1988" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read a lot of opinions online about the hardness of different finishes, but I cannot find any authoritative numbers for hardness ratings for the different types of finishes in the lacquer and poly families.  Specifically, I'm looking for comparative numbers for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nitro lacquer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Acrylic lacquer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pre-cat acrylic lacquer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;post-cat acrylic lacquer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;water-based poly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;oil-based poly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Testing_Your_Coatings_Hardness.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this information&lt;/a&gt; in many different forms online, but the table does not differentiate pre-cat and post-cat lacquer, nor is the catalyzed lacquer listed as nitro or acrylic.  The lacquer was also tested after 24h, even though it doesn't reach full hardness for up to 7 days (from experience, there is a huge difference between 24h old lacquer and 7d old lacquer).  I have found one or two posts by woodworkers about their preferred finish, but they cannot be used for comparison as their base material, technique, and testing process differ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My specific use case is 5-7 HVLP sprayed coats over Eastern White Pine, rubbed out with 500-grit to 4000-grit sanding pads followed by Menzerna SF3500.  My first project was a computer desk using Target Coatings EM-6000 acrylic lacquer with CL-1000 crosslinker.  I'm satisfied with the hardness for this use, but would like to better understand alternatives for future projects without having to spend the hundreds of dollars and countless hours testing them all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2017-09-15T17:10:05.237" Title="What are the hardness ratings for the different types of lacquers and polyurethanes?" Tags="|finishing|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6237" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-20T04:08:04.543" Score="5" ViewCount="2630" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a couple of boards of white oak I want to glue up to make a platform for a computer. They are straight enough for a glue up but will require some surfacing for flatness and overall look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am new to this and don't have many tools, only a random orbit sander for this. I was looking to get a jointer plane but the better ones are out of budget, and the cheaper ones are filled usually come with the caveat that it will need servicing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to get a decent result with just the sander? If not any advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3951" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T11:04:22.397" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T11:04:22.397" Title="Advice on surfacing board with sander" Tags="|hand-tools|sanding|surface-preparation|random-orbit-sander|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6237" CreationDate="2017-07-20T18:46:33.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have flattened boards with a random orbital sanders before, you will need a straight edge to mark all the high points with a pencil and sand them down. With a good straight edge you can get the surface extremely flat. I recently used a long steel Starrett straightedge and a orbital sander to flatten a massive table top made from sandwiched 2x4s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick, but not as accurate, way to find all the high spots to sand down is to use a pencil and cover the surface with lines. Evenly, lightly sand the entire surface with the sander, all the high points will have the pencil marks sanded off. You will still need a good straight edge to check you work after, to make sure your not sanding the board concave/convex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use a cheap hand plane like one of these &lt;a href=&quot;http://amzn.to/2ueZrIT&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://amzn.to/2ueZrIT&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;as a hand plane will work a bit better than the orbital sander for this. Less dust too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you have a router, make a &quot;router sled&quot; to flatten the surface. A router sled will work better than an orbital sander and routers are a fairly common cheap tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="453" LastEditorUserId="453" LastEditDate="2017-10-16T12:23:29.177" LastActivityDate="2017-10-16T12:23:29.177" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6202" CreationDate="2017-07-20T19:13:12.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a window fan in addition to whatever dust control method you use. If you set the window fan to blow the air outside, your room will have negative pressure compared to the rest of the apartment and you wont need to worry about airborne dust making it out the room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="453" LastActivityDate="2017-07-20T19:13:12.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6241" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-20T23:54:45.307" Score="1" ViewCount="488" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to create an 8 sided pyramid out of a solid piece of cherry that is 1&quot; thick. The size of the base of the pyramid can be seen in the attached photo: (all dimensions are in inches)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tyftp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tyftp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fENQZ.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fENQZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fENQZ.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I have tried cutting away at it with various chisels but I have been at it for about 3 hours and am not close to finishing one side... Does anyone have any better methods to achieve this 8 sided pyramid that I am looking to make?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3728" LastActivityDate="2017-07-27T00:01:58.700" Title="Making a 8 Sided Wooden Pyramid" Tags="|technique|tools|chisel|carving|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6242" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-22T17:04:49.097" Score="2" ViewCount="652" Body="&lt;p&gt;The logs are natural logs with uneven features since they are natural hand hewn. They were supposed to be flattened at the mill but that did not happen. I tried a 4 1/2&quot; planner but I need to take off 1&quot; to 1.5&quot; (6&quot; to 8&quot; wide) and the process was way too slow (less than 1/8&quot; per cut on 4 logs each 16' long).  The logs are floor joists that full 2&quot; T&amp;amp;G will go onto. I looked at using a band saw but I would need to use a 14&quot; band saw that weights 250 pounds.  I have an Alaskan mill but the chainsaw oil and fumes inside the house are not desirable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for more ideas . . . thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3958" LastActivityDate="2017-07-24T18:42:40.377" Title="How can I flatten the top of a 12&quot; natural log in place?" Tags="|traditional-techniques|thickness-planer|band-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6237" CreationDate="2017-07-23T04:38:44.470" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the past I have tried to prepare boards for joining with a sander . . . not very good. Then I got a joiner.  Much more effective! Especially after I mastered the ends. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NoDI8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NoDI8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3958" LastActivityDate="2017-07-23T04:38:44.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6245" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6279" CreationDate="2017-07-23T20:15:00.617" Score="4" ViewCount="329" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine is interviewing for a chemist position at a glue factory. As part of the interview, she has been asked to prepare a short presentation on the difference of &amp;quot;matrix gluing vs surface gluing&amp;quot; (translated from German &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;Matrixverleimung&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;, I don't know if it's the correct jargon in English).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have found many explanations of &amp;quot;surface gluing&amp;quot;, where you join flat pieces of wood together.&#xA;However, we cannot find definitions of &amp;quot;matrix gluing&amp;quot; anywhere in the internet, nor in scientific literature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So: &lt;strong&gt;What is matrix gluing?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My &lt;em&gt;assumption&lt;/em&gt; is that it has something to do with the production of things like medium-density-fiber board (MDF) or press-board, or other types of panels made from wood splinters/fibers.&#xA;However, we'd like to be &lt;em&gt;certain&lt;/em&gt;, since a job-offer could depend on it. Links to definitions, or other search terms we should be using would be appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3961" LastEditorUserId="3961" LastEditDate="2022-06-29T11:46:21.133" LastActivityDate="2022-06-29T11:46:21.133" Title="What is &quot;matrix gluing&quot; (as opposed to &quot;surface gluing&quot;)" Tags="|glue|terminology|gluing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6246" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6247" CreationDate="2017-07-23T23:59:39.580" Score="5" ViewCount="18465" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my first real woodworking project, I'm trying my hand at making an end table. For the tabletop I'm using 1x6 planks with tongue and groove edges. To join the planks, I know that all they need is to be glued and held tight until it sets. However, I don't have any big clamps to hold the planks together. How can I keep the tabletop together while the glue sets without using clamps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3962" LastActivityDate="2018-08-30T09:36:29.217" Title="Gluing joints with no clamps" Tags="|joinery|glue|clamps|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6246" CreationDate="2017-07-24T08:10:17.950" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're using most modern glues you do need clamps*, or some substitute, here. Hide glue is the one exception since it can be used to create &lt;em&gt;rubbed joints&lt;/em&gt;. Although some people use PVA-type glues in this way in limited circumstances hide glue is the only adhesive that you can really do this with and achieve a proper result at a large scale (that result being that the joint ends up stronger than the wood around it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you need 'clamp pressure' but you don't have clamps. There are two ways around this, first is to use a type of clamping board and second is to build your own wooden clamps which as you'll see below is not quite as daunting as it seems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clamping board&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is a jig that's like one big flat clamp, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5386/techniques-for-gluing-thin-panels/5390#5390&quot;&gt;Techniques for gluing thin panels?&lt;/a&gt; The tips in that Answer, as the title suggests, are primarily used for thin panels but similar methods can be used for thicker stock if needed (but they need to be made much stronger). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Make your own clamps&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There are a great many versions, from simple to more elaborate, cheap to more expensive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need clamps that costs the least and take little time to make this is probably the best basic design:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Gy4e.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Gy4e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wooden bar clamps&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Original source unknown, possibly Wood magazine.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll also include a selection of others posted online that may be of interest:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vFeF4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vFeF4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shop-made clamps&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the notes &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5838/panel-flatness-during-table-top-glue-up/5840#5840&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; on clamping pressure. Whatever you build it must be quite robust as you need to exert significant pressure for a good glue joint to form — your glue lines should be invisible or nearly so. In addition to looking so much better thin glue lines are &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; stronger than thicker ones using most adhesives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some related info that you may find useful:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4850/not-so-obvious-disadvantages-of-butt-joints/4857#4857&quot;&gt;Not-so-obvious disadvantages of butt joints&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5838/panel-flatness-during-table-top-glue-up/5840#5840&quot;&gt;Panel Flatness During Table Top Glue Up&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*There is a school of thought here that the correct answer is you should just go buy the necessary clamps. They don't have to be expensive to work well and they will have use in the future, you can be guaranteed of that. And in case you haven't heard it yet there is a common understanding in woodworking that you can't have too many clamps :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These days the best kind of longer clamp on a budget is arguably the extruded aluminium sash clamp. There are many makes and apparently most are virtually identical. They're usually very affordable and in some markets sets of four, six or eight are sold at a significant discount. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where they're commonly available pipe clamps may also be worth considering since you can buy the clamp heads and then make clamps of almost any length by buying suitable pieces of iron pipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-07-24T08:10:17.950" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6248" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-24T12:51:19.667" Score="1" ViewCount="156" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting ready to stain a small table I'm making, and everything I've read says that you need to make sure your environment is dust-free to prevent spots. However, I live in a small condo in the city and have been doing all of my work outside on the patio. I don't have a good interior space to do the staining without completely fumigating our place. How can I stain my table without getting it covered in dust spots? I currently have a very dark stain+poly, so it will probably require multiple coats. I haven't opened it yet though, so I could probably return it if there's another more suitable product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3962" LastActivityDate="2017-07-24T12:51:19.667" Title="Preventing dust spots when staining outside" Tags="|staining|outdoor|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6246" CreationDate="2017-07-24T17:18:52.510" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other clampless options include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;using pocket holes and screws (on the under side of the table) to clamp the boards together. The screws can be left in or removed once the glue dries, your preference. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using a cleat on the underside with angled screws that pull the joint together as they are driven.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drawbored loose tenons. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theenglishwoodworker.com/trust-or-reinforce/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;See here for an example&lt;/a&gt;. Although this may seem like advanced joinery, the actual joint can be pretty sloppy and this will still be extremely strong. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/joinery/drawboring-resurrected&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;See here for some more nice things about drawboring&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2017-07-24T17:18:52.510" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6242" CreationDate="2017-07-24T18:42:40.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can dream up all sorts of methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether any of them (including set-up time and building fixtures) will be faster than just going &quot;way too slow&quot; with your planer that you already have is debatable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, if you can set up something at a fixed height above the plane you want to achieve, you can crosscut down to within 1/8&quot; of the line with a circular saw every 1/2 inch or so, and break off the waste. But setting up the thing for the saw to run on is non-trivial. With such a thing set up you can then finish with a router - but you still need the thing to run on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can get (or make) a couple of straight 16 foot 2X12 it might not be too difficult? Put up some temporary blocking between the joists so you can set one either side of a joist (between them, not too close) and use as rails for a saw sled and router sled, having set the tops carefully level above the plane you want the joist tops to be at. You could also do the whole job with a router, but you'd be back to &quot;way too slow.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3334" LastActivityDate="2017-07-24T18:42:40.377" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="425" CreationDate="2017-07-25T00:46:30.223" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is old post, but I have a real hand tool solution.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I appreciate hand tool solutions as in my previous home the workshop and power tools were only usable in warm weather and indoors most power tools, especially routers made far too much dust and noise, so it was hand tools in the winter. Now I have a heated workshop and do far less hand work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A biscuit is actually a form of loose or floating tenon.  So what you need is a way to make a matching mortice.  Lee Valley has morticing chisels in a 1/8th inch size.  These can we used to make small mortices if you enjoy doing hand work.  The 1/8th size may be small enough to use commercial biscuits.  If not you can make the biscuits using a handsaw and plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a set of their inexpensive Narex morticing chisels and they are quite good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option, as suggested by @praxum is dowels, there are excellent doweling jigs, modern ones available at most woodworking shops, and classic Stanley jigs that you can sometimes get cheap as antiques.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3968" LastActivityDate="2017-07-25T00:46:30.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4998" CreationDate="2017-07-25T10:55:52.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not listed in mvr007's answer is the &lt;strong&gt;bowl gouge&lt;/strong&gt;.  Historically I have used a large bowl gouge (e.g. Ellsworth 1/2&quot; Bowl Gouge) for 90% of my work turning, only shying away to another tool for some tight spindle details, parting, and really tough roughing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More recently I have been using &lt;strong&gt;scrapers with replaceable carbide tips&lt;/strong&gt; (e.g. Easy Wood Tools).  Since starting to use them they have served about 70% of my needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3970" LastActivityDate="2017-07-25T10:55:52.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6144" CreationDate="2017-07-25T11:22:43.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is hard to tell from the picture if the jaws have any angle to them to support being attached to a dovetail spigot or not (see &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/woodturning/four-jaw-lathe-chucks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Getting a Grip on Four-Jaw Lathe Chucks&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;); and event the description on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.grizzly.com/products/6-4-Jaw-Chuck-3-4-x-16-TPI/H8048?utm_campaign=zPage&amp;amp;utm_source=grizzly.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Grizzly Industrial's web site&lt;/a&gt; (it does look like the Grizzly chuck) does not do a good job of describing the jaws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though Grizzly describes the chuck as a wood-working chuck, if the jaw faces are perpendicular you will have a hard time holding woodturning projects in them.  Most wood is too compressible and will walk out of the chuck without the dovetail configuration to help limit that walking.  The four independent jaws will also be a challenge to use over the long run, as re-mounting a piece will be difficult to get re-centered. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3971" LastActivityDate="2017-07-25T11:22:43.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6254" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-25T19:18:07.830" Score="1" ViewCount="254" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a wood turner, and like to do larger bowls.  For segmented bowls, where you glue of rings of say 10 or 12 segments, then stack and glue segments to make the rough bowl blank, what is the best method for cutting accurate segments?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Table saw &amp;amp; saw sled;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chop or miter saw; or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3972" LastActivityDate="2018-05-15T19:11:06.707" Title="Best method for making segmented rings for wood turning?" Tags="|wood|turning|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3187" CreationDate="2017-07-25T20:04:19.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used a wide range of wood for bowl, the biggest recommendation is turn a lot, and if you start with firewood you are not afraid of ending up with firewood.   I have used everything from:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;rather expensive wood to make segmented bowls; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mRr9J.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mRr9J.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Maple and Blood Wood&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; to fire wood&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pIHWe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pIHWe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Firewood&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3972" LastActivityDate="2017-07-25T20:04:19.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6256" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-26T14:56:23.243" Score="5" ViewCount="999" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there an equivalent to planing (or paring) with the grain or against the grain when planing end grain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, the answer is a definite yes. If I plane the end of a board in one direction I get a perfectly smooth shiny finish, and if I plane in the opposite direction I might get a slightly rough finish, with much less shine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I want to understand this better. What is the best direction? Is it related to going parallel to or across growth rings? Towards or away from the centre of the tree? What is the reason for the difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2258" LastActivityDate="2019-06-10T18:31:49.767" Title="Is there a favourable direction for planing end grain?" Tags="|end-grain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6241" CreationDate="2017-07-27T00:01:58.700" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;With handtools you typically want to follow a &quot;coarse, medium, fine&quot; workflow.  The coarse step will get generally close to the line, medium will refine that to hit the line, and fine will fine-tune and surface your piece.  It sounds like you're trying to skip the coarse step and go straight to medium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your coarse work should be done by either a saw or something that can take very deep passes.  Depending on the situation this could be a drawknife, scrub plane, or something that can split the wood along the grain like a froe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, my workflow here would be to layout the design for a triangle on the endgrain, then use a panel saw to get within 1/8&quot; of that, then use a #4 set fairly heavy to get to the lines.  I'd then start over doing the same process on the other two faces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2017-07-27T00:01:58.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6258" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6259" CreationDate="2017-07-27T14:38:31.400" Score="7" ViewCount="240" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm  thinking about buy my 1st router. I would be using for general wood working. I.e cutting out slots, finishing off edges, mainly trying to learn. The question is what features, characteristics and quality should a beginner look for?&#xA;Thanks everyone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3977" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2017-07-28T20:32:27.503" LastActivityDate="2022-07-20T17:11:11.637" Title="What useful features should I look for in a router?" Tags="|router|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6258" CreationDate="2017-07-28T22:54:52.210" Score="7" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Plunge base&lt;/strong&gt; - Does the base have the ability to raise and lower the router with hand pressure?  This allows accurate plunge cuts for things like stopped grooves and mortises.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Power&lt;/strong&gt; - Does the router have enough power to do bigger cuts?  For an all-purpose hand router I'd look for a minimum of 2 hp.  Less than that will limit what you can do, particularly in hardwoods.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Build Quality&lt;/strong&gt; - How much play is there in the plunge pillars?  How well does the depth adjustment lock?  There are a number of things that can cause inaccuracy to creep into your work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ergonomics&lt;/strong&gt; - How does it feel in your hands?  Is the power switch easy to reach from the handles?  Is the base large enough to be stable?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other Features&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does it come with variety of collet diameters? (1/2&quot;, 1/4&quot; or other common in your country)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does it have soft-start / speed adjust / constant torque electronics?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How easy is the bit change mechanism (ratcheting is better than locking pin is better than two-wrench)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does it have dust collection ports?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can it accept guide bushings?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can it be mounted into the table ? (and how to rig depth adjustment mechanism)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2017-08-08T15:55:53.523" LastActivityDate="2017-08-08T15:55:53.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6260" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-28T23:11:03.473" Score="2" ViewCount="192" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have old baseboards in our house and need to replace just a two foot section. I figure it would be cheapest for me to attempt to make my own. I had a guy work on our house a few years back that needed to do exactly that and left me a small sample of what he made, which matches perfectly. I assume using a router would be the best bet, but what type of bit should I use to get this shape? This will be my first router attempt but I figured I would play around and see if this would be something I could get close. I could probably get access to a router table if need be too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ib16O.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ib16O.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pywqi.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pywqi.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3981" LastActivityDate="2017-07-29T10:07:05.913" Title="Router to create this baseboard?" Tags="|router|router-bit|router-table|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6260" CreationDate="2017-07-29T10:07:05.913" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could do this using a router and a matching bit of course but it would be far more rational to figure out how to do it using a combination of common bits. That is if you wanted to use a router. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a fully equipped workshop probably the simplest and fastest way to create short lengths of this profile would be accurate saw cuts (using a table saw) followed by scraping or sanding to smooth and complete the profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory the entire profile could be done using a scratch stock, although removing the bulk of the waste beforehand would be wise, but probably best to work it in sections. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way I would do it I think would be to get as close as possible by sawing (hand sawing in my case), then planing, followed by scraping to complete the profile and smooth as necessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On something as small as this (especially in softwood) the roundovers can be done purely by sanding but my preference with radii of approximately this size is to use a block plane to do most of it, leaving minimal sanding to finish off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; make a longer section than you need, then saw the mitres on the ends only when you're completely done shaping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-07-29T10:07:05.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6262" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-30T13:06:32.910" Score="2" ViewCount="164" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am writing a novel set in 1850s Nevada. I would like to have the papa make his son a wooden train. Could he do this with a hand saw? What other hand tools would he need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Jackie A" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2017-07-30T17:17:58.040" LastActivityDate="2017-10-31T23:41:11.793" Title="What hand tools might have been used historically to create a wooden train?" Tags="|hand-tools|tools|toy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6262" CreationDate="2017-07-30T14:03:18.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back then a knife, plane and scrapper did a lot of the craft work in a non industrial setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Ryan Walkowski" LastActivityDate="2017-07-30T14:03:18.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6264" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6265" CreationDate="2017-07-31T12:13:30.187" Score="5" ViewCount="992" Body="&lt;p&gt;My table top is made out of ash. There were a few spots that didn't take the stain well. Any suggestions on how to approach fixing these spots? This is my first build, so any help is appreciated!&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S1pqN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S1pqN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9cQtT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9cQtT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bn16Q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bn16Q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3987" LastActivityDate="2017-07-31T16:52:52.857" Title="Ran into a few issues while staining my table top" Tags="|sanding|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6264" CreationDate="2017-07-31T16:52:52.857" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was definitely some sort of surface contamination that prevented the stain from absorbing evenly. The only way to make it even, aside from painting, is to remove all of the current stain by planing, scraping, or sanding, and restain. The good news is, as long as you don't spill anything on the surface afterwards, you will have removed whatever contamination caused this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2017-07-31T16:52:52.857" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6266" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-31T22:14:45.050" Score="2" ViewCount="199" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old 1950s bandsaw (Beaver 2300) that has been refitted with a new motor.  It runs fine.  But now that I am using a power bar with a built in GFCI, the GFCI trips under heavy load.  When I plug directly into the wall outlet, the 15A breaker does not trip. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions on why this should occur, or how I should explore this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3442" LastActivityDate="2017-08-01T00:16:54.067" Title="Bandsaw GFCI tripping" Tags="|safety|band-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6266" CreationDate="2017-08-01T00:16:54.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This could indicate a shock hazard, so do be careful while you're diagnosing the problem. In particular, if the motor windings were leaking current to ground (the motor casing and by extension the saw itself), a properly functioning GFCI could exhibit this behavior. Especially avoid touching a metal surface saw while some other part of your body is grounded. Safer yet, avoid using the saw until you have this figured out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would need other tests with test equipment to tell, but trying with another GFCI might be an accessible option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One possible scenario is that the motor windings heat up under load and cracks or other weak spots in the insulation then allow current to flow to ground without passing through the Neutral wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the motor type, it could also be leakage in the run capacitor, an insulation breakdown in the switch, or in any part of the wiring (especially suspect given its age), but a systematic diagnosis here is the best bet. Such a diagnosis would require understanding the electrical principles involved and may be best left to an expert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose you could eliminate certain whole sections of components by, say, wiring the motor directly to a plug. If that fixed it, the switch and wiring would be suspect; if it still happened, it narrows it down to the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2017-08-01T00:16:54.067" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6268" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-01T11:22:13.853" Score="1" ViewCount="380" Body="&lt;p&gt;​I haven't found any good resources on the different ways to take advantage of sliding table saws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, what kind of sleds to build (to work with and not against the slide), what is the safest way to do different cuts compared to a regular table saw, ripping long pieces, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I do see many resources on properly using a regular table saw.)&#xA;​​&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3577" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2017-09-08T14:28:12.367" LastActivityDate="2019-03-07T09:34:11.110" Title="Good resources on properly using a sliding table saw" Tags="|table-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6268" CreationDate="2017-08-01T13:47:26.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good sliding table can serve as a main reference point for your jigs and support for the stock. Fixing the jig/sled to the table and using the sliding action to get the stock moved across the blade. Most T-track based jigs will work fine with it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For ripping long board you can add a shoe at the end of the table to hold the end in place as you are pushing it through. A spike in the shoe can help prevent the piece from shifting side to side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2017-08-01T13:47:26.310" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6270" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6274" CreationDate="2017-08-01T16:15:08.583" Score="3" ViewCount="545" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I've drilled and carved out a small box. The Forstner bit that removed the bulk of the insides left a load of little holes in the bottom. The finish is &lt;em&gt;far&lt;/em&gt; from perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y2E72.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y2E72.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried working it with a chisel but we're talking about a very small opening, around 30×40mm. I've also tried a flat-top grinding disk on the Dremel. That's not really gritty enough and spins so fast it just burns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Ryj5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Ryj5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something else I can use to finish the bottom of this little box?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't (yet) have a router but even if I did, I'd need to find an extraordinarily good way to clamp it. I do have a good drill press. I can handle the corners manually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3990" LastActivityDate="2017-08-02T09:41:49.287" Title="How can I flatten the floor of a small carved box?" Tags="|sanding|plane|carving|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6271" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6297" CreationDate="2017-08-01T17:00:58.380" Score="5" ViewCount="349" Body="&lt;p&gt;(Yes, I'm building the ubiquitous farmhouse table. I blame the wife.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What sort of joint would y'all recommend for this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8EdV7.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8EdV7.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are 4x4s. The angled piece is about 36&quot; long on each side, so about 46 before the mitered cuts on the end. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used M&amp;amp;T just about everywhere else, but that's going to be a little difficult with the angles. I'm suspect that a butt join would separate at the top over time (though I could be wrong). Someone suggested dowels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suggestions? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3096" LastActivityDate="2018-05-11T19:35:22.533" Title="Joint recommendation?" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6270" CreationDate="2017-08-01T19:27:20.920" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paul Sellers has a video on making a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=1&amp;amp;cad=rja&amp;amp;uact=8&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwij1dPa4LbVAhVqxoMKHfbnCFsQyCkIKjAA&amp;amp;url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DB_2a_FwjAgk&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNEgaFEybnmAaofj1vR36N_way3fvA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Poor Man's Router Plane&lt;/a&gt; using a chisel and a block of wood.  Depending on the depth of the box, this method may work for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE:  I take no responsibility for sending you down the Paul Sellers video rabbit hole. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1272" LastActivityDate="2017-08-01T19:27:20.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6273" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-01T21:34:16.330" Score="3" ViewCount="4248" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a piece of walnut I finished with Danish oil then poly. After it cured I sanded it with high grit sandpaper then applied a small amount of wax and polished. I did the whole process on the bottom of the piece in order to test the finish. I didn't have any issues so I followed the same steps on the top. This time, however, it seems the wood grain was still somewhat exposed somehow and bits of wax remained in the grain. The white spots in the pictures are bits of wax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r3aaq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r3aaq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qvbyk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qvbyk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried many ways to remove the wax -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wiping/scrubbing with mineral spirits on cotton cloth, shop towel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sanding with high grit sandpaper and mineral spirits&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wiping/scrubbing with naptha on cotton cloth, shop towel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using a blow dryer to heat the wax and wipe away&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of these solutions really seemed to work. The most effective one seemed to be naptha, but it still could not remove all of the wax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read that sanding this down to re-finish could actually worsen the issue because it will melt the wax into the wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on how to resolve this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3332" LastActivityDate="2017-08-02T01:24:28.207" Title="Remove wax from wood grain" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6270" CreationDate="2017-08-01T21:34:39.167" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A suggestion of perhaps the wrong tool but a good result nonetheless. A milling machine uses end mills for removing material both from the sides and bottom of a work piece. It is a very bad idea to use an end mill in a drill press to remove material from the sides of a work piece, but not as bad to use an end mill in a drill press to remove material from the bottom. The &quot;bad&quot; part is due to side loads on the drill press, which isn't a factor when using only the end of the mill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y0xmN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y0xmN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;end mill image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be able to find low prices online to meet your requirements. Having the stability of a drill press improves your chances of a good result compared to a hand-held rotary tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2017-08-01T21:34:39.167" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6273" CreationDate="2017-08-02T01:24:28.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Walnut has an open grain so unless you fill it with grain filler or some other material, it will never be perfectly smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your pictures, I'm wondering if it's not actually wax build-up but rather poly that has been scuffed.  I might first try applying another layer of poly.  If it is actually wax, you will have adhesion problems likely and at that point you might need to further remove the finish and start over.  If it adheres fine, then the finish should look as good as new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for removing the finish, you can sand, use a card scraper, stripping chemicals, heat + scraping or any combination of these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2017-08-02T01:24:28.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6270" CreationDate="2017-08-02T06:09:19.077" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to expand somewhat on my Comment above. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hide it&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I don't think you're would be really happy with any smoothing option here so I strongly recommend you just sidestep the issue and line the box :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't the cop out it might appear to be, small decorative boxes are commonly lined in various ways (baize, flocking, rouched fabric) and it finishes off the interior nicely. Certainly more attractive than a bland wood surface!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thinking outside the box&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The box bottom doesn't have to be a single piece with the sides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drill out the current bottom, or cut it out with a coping saw, and throw it away. Smooth off the sides with files (or sandpaper glued to sticks if you own no suitable files) and when you're happy with them you make a new bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mark through the hole onto the face of a board then cut it to shape and glue it in place. The new bottom can be a matching or contrasting wood as you prefer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to working around the current problem without having to make any more purchases, and struggling to refine a difficult-to-work surface in a difficult-to-access position, the bottom of the box will become a long-grain surface and not end grain as it currently is. End grain doesn't finish well that easily but long grain does. Additionally long grain is frequently more attractive if you want the bottom of the box to be wood and to be visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-08-02T06:09:19.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6245" CreationDate="2017-08-02T08:21:01.503" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, after the interview, we now know for certain what interpretation they were looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Matrixverleimung&quot;/Matrix gluing does indeed refer to structures like pressboard/MDF/etc. where the wood-fibers/chips are &lt;em&gt;embedded in&lt;/em&gt; the glue, as opposed to &lt;em&gt;connected by&lt;/em&gt; the glue in &quot;surface glueing&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any manufactured wood where the glue itself provides a non-negligable part of the bulk of the material is said to be &quot;matrixverleimt&quot; (matrix glued)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3961" LastActivityDate="2017-08-02T08:21:01.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6270" CreationDate="2017-08-02T09:41:49.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can take a flat-end Dremel bit and hot glue sandpaper to it. Here's what 80-grit does:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tnp3s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with this approach is a little ~2cm² disc of 80-grit can't wear away enough of the wood to hide the holes before it gives up the ghost. I could rinse and repeat but it also wears into the sides so it's not something I want to push too far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The finish &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; much better so this is definitely an option later on, and with higher grits to get a polished bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3990" LastActivityDate="2017-08-02T09:41:49.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6281" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-02T12:59:22.440" Score="3" ViewCount="339" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm relatively new to woodworking.  I just finished some desktops made from Eastern White Pine, and coated with 5-7 coats of post-catalyzed acrylic lacquer (Target Coatings EM-6000 + CL-1000) sprayed from a cheap HVLP sprayer.  After a week of cure time I used a series of Mirka Abralon silicon carbide Sanding Pads (grits 1000, 2000, 3000, 4000) soaked in soapy water, 3-4 slow passes over the entire top.  Then finished with Menzerna SF3500 using a foam finishing pad.  The resultant finish has a very nice glossy shine, but it also looks very &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orange_peel_(effect)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;orange peel&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After seeing this on my first project, I thought that this just meant that I needed to be more aggressive with my initial sanding.  So on my second desk I started with a 500 grit sanding pad before moving to the 1000, and I took a little more time than I did with the others.  I was surprised to see that the second project looked as orangy, if not more so, than the first.  Leaving me to wonder what's causing this and what step I'm missing in my finishing process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never read of anyone needing to go rougher than 500 grit when rubbing out lacquer.  What's the proper way to deal with this?  Why (physically) does this happen?  Do I just need to take a lot more time with the 500 grit?  Too much water and/or soap?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My goal is to create a glasslike mirror gloss, like you see on a high-end car paint job or a guitar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2017-08-02T14:27:40.217" Title="How do I avoid 'orange peel' when rubbing out acrylic lacquer?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6281" CreationDate="2017-08-02T14:27:40.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to quote the pros - the folks who make HVLP systems to answer this.  Answer from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fujispray.com/orange-peel-help/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.fujispray.com/orange-peel-help/&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The number one issue for orange peel is that the material is too&#xA;  thick.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To remedy this, add more thinner (or appropriate solvent) to the&#xA;  mixture. For fast drying products such as lacquers, you may also want&#xA;  to add a lacquer slowing agent such as Floetrol. This will slow the&#xA;  drying time allowing the material to flow out and level nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;With the newer water-based materials orange peel is usually a result&#xA;  of spraying on too thick of a film. Try spraying an extremely THIN&#xA;  FILM, but still WET coat. A wet coat being “no dry spots that you&#xA;  think will flow together” and at the other end “no puddles or runs”.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Remember don’t turn the air down too much.  The more air used, the&#xA;  finer the atomisation will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This is why we suggest leaving the air control valve fully open when&#xA;  experimenting with a new coating material, otherwise it will cause&#xA;  confusion. If the air control valve is fully open (or perhaps removed&#xA;  for Latex spraying) then orange peel can only be one cause – our&#xA;  number one factor, the material being sprayed is too thick and must be&#xA;  thinned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2017-08-02T14:27:40.217" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6284" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-04T03:53:48.383" Score="2" ViewCount="147" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like a pergola with natural wood color and grain appearance.  I live near the west side of the Sierra Nevada, where drought and beetles have decimated the Ponderosa pines.  An acquaintance has access to logs that were cut and given away by the Forest Service; he has a small mill and will sell me lumber cut to my specs for half what the lumber yard charges. This wood has not been treated in any way.  So, is this a good route to go?  What would I need to do to keep this wood from warping?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4003" LastActivityDate="2017-08-06T03:35:53.260" Title="Building a pergola on a new patio slab - wood quality" Tags="|lumber|pine|cut|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6285" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6286" CreationDate="2017-08-04T14:49:42.247" Score="5" ViewCount="13608" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an unfinished desk and want to keep the natural color of the wood but I want to protect it with a clear polyurethane finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if I need to (or is it preferable to) add a clear or natural stain beforehand? Is there any benefit to doing that or will applying the polyurethane by itself have the same result if I don't stain first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3998" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2018-10-01T19:49:25.640" LastActivityDate="2018-10-01T19:49:25.640" Title="Do I need to add natural stain before applying polyurethane for natural finish?" Tags="|staining|polyurethane|natural-wood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6285" CreationDate="2017-08-04T15:48:18.737" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.  The purpose of stain is to alter the color of the wood.  If you don't want to change the color of the wood you should not use stain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Polyurethane by itself is a perfectly acceptable finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2017-08-04T15:48:18.737" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6287" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-04T22:25:31.913" Score="2" ViewCount="1002" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am refinishing an old Franlin desk. The wood is red oak. The pores are fairly open. After sanding off the old finish and stain the wood looks like the surface of the moon (a slight exaggeration). I applied the new stain, and an application of Watco Rejuvenating oil. After it dried for a week, I started applying Wipe on PolyU Gloss. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have four layers on (sanding with 320 between each layer). It is all slowly starting to even out into a consistent gloss, but I am concerned that if may never give me the glass / reflective finish I am looking for. 10 layers of PolyU Gloss?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4009" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2017-08-05T07:40:22.690" LastActivityDate="2017-08-05T17:40:24.440" Title="Finish and pitted grain in red oak" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6287" CreationDate="2017-08-05T07:34:39.000" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the wood looks like the surface of the moon (a slight exaggeration). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oak is an open-grained wood and will always have some irregularity to it even if the surface is very flat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With an open-grained wood if the final goal is a dead-smooth shiny finish the grain should be filled prior to varnish application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I applied the new stain, and an application of Watco Rejuvenating oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because you don't know what's in Rejuvenating Oil it really shouldn't be used as part of a finishing regime. It's intended to &quot;[restore] beauty, warmth and luster to previously oil-finished surfaces&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given what it is likely made from (I'm guessing) you should be fine, but there is a chance it could cause problems later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Better to have used boiled linseed oil at this stage to do what I presume you wanted here, but because you're working on oak it's likely there'd be no benefit gained from oiling and going straight to varnish after the stain dried would have been acceptable — varnish is already quite oily and the first coats 'wets' the surface very similarly to straight oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(sanding with 320 between each layer). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't need to sand between layers of varnish. The only reason to sand between coats should be to de-nib the surface, which is needed less in the case of wipe-on because it dries a lot faster than full-strength varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It dries faster because it's been diluted and as such you're putting on less with each coat. By sanding each application you're removing some of what is already very little added varnish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;but I am concerned that if may never give me the glass / reflective finish I am looking for. 10 layers of PolyU Gloss?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You really shouldn't be using wipe-on if that is the end goal. Wipe-on is generally intended to provide a lightly finished look or even an in-the-wood finish where there's nothing much on the surface, not a fully developed varnish coat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One coat of regular varnish may be equivalent to 3-4 coats of wipe-on. And with regular varnish it may require 4-6 coats to build a thick enough coating that you can sand it out and polish it....... you do the math :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be much better if you switched to regular varnish and brushed on some coats, let them dry and then get good and hard (wait at least a week but leaving it for a month wouldn't hurt) and then began the polishing process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related info from previous Q&amp;amp;As:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/884/what-is-the-difference-between-curing-and-drying/897?s=1|1.8707#897&quot;&gt;What is the difference between &amp;quot;curing&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;drying&amp;quot;?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2506/issue-sanding-between-coats-of-polyurethane/2509#2509&quot;&gt;Issue sanding between coats of polyurethane&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/756/how-do-i-achieve-a-piano-black-high-gloss-finish-on-wood/777#777&quot;&gt;How do I achieve a &amp;quot;piano black&amp;quot; high gloss finish on wood?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; this is a tough finish to pull off so prepare yourself for some work! But to be honest if this is your first time doing this working towards it directly on the project piece is very risky. It's much better to make some of the mistakes that first-timers usually make (#1 being sanding through somewhere) on something less important, or better still on a test board or two that don't matter at all, than to commit to doing this on a desk you care about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-08-05T07:34:39.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6287" CreationDate="2017-08-05T17:40:24.440" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently was refinishing a cherry antique piece and I used a new product called One Coat. It was not going on the way I wanted it to. I called Minwax and they told me the following, and it worked for me. I lightly sanded the surface with 220 sandpaper. I purchased a can of Minmax Polycrylic and a lambs wool applicator (wooden handle with lambs wool wrapped and glued on it) I got the lambs wool wet and then shook it off completely so it had only slight moisture on it. I put 1/4&quot; pf the Polycrylic in a used plastic tub, like a paint roller tub and then soaked up the polycrylic on the lambs wool applicator, and I wiped it on in one direction, smooth strokes. It worked like a charm and gave me that glass-like finish I have gotten from other urethanes I had wiped on pieces in the past. I do not like this Minwax OneCoat, but I was not going to sand it all off again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3969" LastActivityDate="2017-08-05T17:40:24.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6284" CreationDate="2017-08-06T03:35:53.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems like you have 3 questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is Ponderosa Pine a good choice?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not a great choice as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/ponderosa-pine/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;heartwood is rated as moderate to low in decay resistance&lt;/a&gt;. It depends on your local climate and how long you reasonably expect it to last without refinishing/coating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, economics might make it into a better choice for you. It is certainly going to be among your cheapest wood options (even without your friend's deal) and depending on your experience and expertise, it is going to be a pretty easy wood to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you choose too quickly, consider &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.grit.com/departments/choosing-wood-for-outdoor-projects&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Choosing Wood for Outdoor Projects&lt;/a&gt; that are also fairly economical (which one depends on what's locally sourced &amp;amp; available).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does it need to be treated?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood, when left outside, will begin to decay -- especially porous softwoods like (most) pines. Generally speaking though, you only &quot;need&quot; treated wood for ground contact -- which is something you can avoid by using a hardware standoff or a spacer of treated wood. The rest can be finished using an outdoor coating to reduce UV and moisture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a project for your own enjoyment. It's not structural and can be made with and how you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I keep it from warping?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Warping can happen, but as long as things are fastened (by hardware or joinery) on both ends, it's unlikely to do much. Also, you tend to work with larger dimensions (ie. 4x4 or 6x6 posts) that are less prone to excessive warping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're in a rainy climate, limit the amount of truly flat surfaces. Usually you can put a slight pitch on horizontal surfaces that doesn't change the appearance and will last significantly longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck with your project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4015" LastActivityDate="2017-08-06T03:35:53.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6291" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-06T16:13:47.170" Score="1" ViewCount="333" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a double bevel chisel/knife. Any information about this tool? Thanks&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6fD5O.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;![enter image description here&quot;&gt;]&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6fD5O.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4018" LastEditorUserId="4327" LastEditDate="2017-11-17T19:53:12.260" LastActivityDate="2017-11-17T19:53:12.260" Title="Tool identification (Chisel )" Tags="|tool-identification|chisel|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2211" CreationDate="2017-08-08T18:55:07.977" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For any using finer, &amp;amp;/or diamond stones - 1000 grit, on up(!), exist in the mini-micron category, the sharpening edges protrude above the surface infinitesimally......oils like WD-40 are thicker than these grits, having the blade you sharpen do a lot of floating, less cutting.  That's why some buy only honing oil which is the right viscosity for this (given all this I like the idea of making one's own....and am bending toward a blend of mineral spirits and perfume-less mineral oil....one would have to experiment with how the blade sounds and feels with whatever mixture one is experimenting with to determine what you need - hey, we all be sharp but have multitudes of ways to get there!!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4029" LastActivityDate="2017-08-08T18:55:07.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6294" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-08T19:24:11.817" Score="3" ViewCount="3912" Body="&lt;p&gt;One problem I tend to have in any shop that I work in, is when I'm  cutting a full 4x8 sheet of plywood and I butt it up against the fence, it always budges; even just 1/32.&quot; I always end up using a track saw when I need to make super precise, but is there a way to stabilize the fence to keep it from moving so easily? I feel like there has to be some way to lock the other side of the saw fence (ours isn't locked on both, just the front has a lever to put pressure on the fence to not move). It is similar to this table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kQd9s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kQd9s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;table saw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4027" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2017-08-09T04:17:37.947" LastActivityDate="2017-08-09T04:17:37.947" Title="How do I prevent my table saw fence from deflecting?" Tags="|table-saw|cutting|shop|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6294" CreationDate="2017-08-08T20:32:57.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is what's known as a &lt;em&gt;Biesemeyer-style&lt;/em&gt; rip fence. A search on &quot;Biesemeyer fence rigidity&quot; yields interesting results, in particular this YouTube video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=alcXY7y4NS0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=alcXY7y4NS0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently, 1/32&quot; (0.030&quot;) is not unusual deflection for this cantilevered style of fence. The approach to stabilizing it seems to be clamping the end to the table. That might be tricky given your outfeed table setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The video mentions tuning the saw blade alignment to reduce the pressure on the fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possible approach, used on my Euro-sliding table saw, is to place an adjustable stop behind the end of the fence, which stops deflection in one direction only (away from the blade), which of course is the only direction that matters. This does a nice job for me. You'd have to see how to rig one up on yours, perhaps with a series of mounting holes akin to dog holes in your right-wing table into which you can mount a block with a rod running through it that you can bring up against your fence and clamp in the block with a thumbscrew or such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2017-08-08T20:32:57.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6294" CreationDate="2017-08-08T21:38:09.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might try using one of those magnetic 'finger dealys' designed to hold your wood against the fence when cutting, but place it on the far back side of the fence to keep it from drifting.....have to be a little experimenting to determine the right amount of force to use before turning the magnets on (draw a line when you find your sweet spot with black marker).&#xA;I don't see a splitter?  Is there one?  If not I strongly advise it, even cutting large pieces of ply.&#xA;Also remember, many want to make sure that far edge of their fence is slightly out of line about the amount you are having problem with (a splitter makes that less necessary).  If that plywood enters the blade at the right amount, and the area before the blade is secure (with a Bessemer-type fence should easily be!!), why doesn't your cut come out as you like it?&#xA;The fence your using is one of the better type to use in my humble.  Does it lock down nice and tight?&#xA;Don't feed to fast.....if you have a sharp blade and your feed rate is right, you probably can do away with your problem right there (plus believe it or not, if you practice this &lt;em&gt;in the presence of a splitter&lt;/em&gt; problem solved?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4029" LastActivityDate="2017-08-08T21:38:09.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6271" CreationDate="2017-08-09T01:56:41.360" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As usual, I received a lot of great advice in the comments. However, this is SE (in James Earl Jones' voice), so this needs an answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(drum roll)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went with dowels, as can be seen in the pictures below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of futzing about with making a jig, etc., I clamped the braces in place, and drilled through them into the stretchers. After drilling each hole, I inserted a 4-6&quot; piece of dowel - enough so that I had about 1&quot; protruding on each side of the joint, then drilled the next hole, insert a dowel, next hole. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yOQAa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yOQAa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Upper joint with protruding dowel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n5PVe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n5PVe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The net effect is that, though the holes may not be perfectly straight or centered, the joints will still line up. (Mark adjoining faces so that you don't wind up putting the not-exactly-identical pieces in the wrong position or orientation.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cut the dowels from a 1/2&quot; rod from Big Box (team Orange). It's not &lt;em&gt;perfect&lt;/em&gt;, but it held well enough that I had to disassemble the entire thing, and get creative with gripping tools, to get it apart to apply glue. And, having moved this thing around several times since then, I don't really see the benefit in buying &quot;dowel joiners&quot; instead of a dowel rod, and cutting it on the miter saw. (Though some dowels have flutes for glue passage, which may hold better over time.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(TL;DR: Put the board where it needs to go, drill through it into the adjacent board, and tap the dowel into place with your mallet. Yes, Mallet. Hammers have their place, but this isn't it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like pictures, so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clamped and roped while gluing the dowels:&#xA;(I didn't have enough clamps, or any 8' long, so I got creative with some rope &lt;em&gt;:)&lt;/em&gt; that I found in the garage.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TZIRD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TZIRD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Not enough clamps, but I have rope!&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Truss is nice and stable. I would've liked to have two dowels at each joint rather than one, but this worked out pretty well, as long as no one tries to twist the truss while the table is in pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MVivF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MVivF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Disassembled so that mere mortals can carry&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cxrXd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cxrXd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;That top is going to be awesome&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Need to pick another board for the top from my stack, maybe fill in a few knots with epoxy or something. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks, everyone (@Graphus) for your help. It's been a great learning experience. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've been using the table for several months; still haven't got around to gluing the top together! But, I'd argue that if you're three year-old can dance on top of it, and the thing doesn't move, it's probably okay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Yes, I'll glue it later.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it sits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dSQ0h.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dSQ0h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Awesome table&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This wouldn't have been possible without the help I received here. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3096" LastEditorUserId="3096" LastEditDate="2018-05-11T19:35:22.533" LastActivityDate="2018-05-11T19:35:22.533" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3195" CreationDate="2017-08-09T19:55:50.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using the right chain (cross/rip)and a bar a little longer (next size up)with the chainsaw mill (or just regular cutting) wouldn't be a problem if you just remember to let the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;chain do the cutting&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; and don't force/push to hard/fast... most break downs are from impatience and abusing the machine - it will let you know by requiring constant blade sharpening (dust vs chips) !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4034" LastActivityDate="2017-08-09T19:55:50.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6301" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6303" CreationDate="2017-08-10T09:16:08.667" Score="5" ViewCount="231" Body="&lt;p&gt;The terms &lt;em&gt;hardwood&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;softwood&lt;/em&gt; are often used, but I struggle to find a reliable definition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the wood's density sufficient as the distinguishing feature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it the only one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As oil is known to harden a wooden surface, is it possible to create a (in terms of density) hardwood-like surface on a piece of softwood? Is it even possible to get softwood that's harder than (relatively soft) hardwood this way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Crucial edit&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I asked for hardwood and softwood, I had the German terms “Hartholz” and “Weichholz” in mind. It turns out they do not translate one-to-one: In English, according to Wikipedia and ON5MF's answer, the distinction is made by the type of tree from which the wood is harvested. That corresponds to the German terms “Laubholz” (wood from dicot angiosperm trees, = hardwood) and “Nadelholz” (wood from gymnosperm trees, = softwood). The differentiation in “Hartholz” and “Weichholz” differs from that in a way that it takes the wood's “hardness” as the distinguishing feature, and I wondered how exactly this is measured and defined. So, additional question: Is there a similar differentiation in English?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr:&lt;/strong&gt; How do you measure a wood's hardness?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4036" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2017-08-16T00:31:26.130" Title="What's a reliable measure of wood hardness?" Tags="|oiling|hardwood|softwood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6301" CreationDate="2017-08-10T14:07:52.087" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Technically hardwood comes from angiosperm trees, softwood comes from gymnosperm trees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So (mostly) if the tree has leaves it is hardwood, if it has needles it is softwood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that some 'hardwood' species can be a lot softer than 'softwood' species.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples of hardwood: beach, oak, birch, balsa (which is very soft)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples of softwood: spruce, pine, fir, cedar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3604" LastActivityDate="2017-08-10T14:07:52.087" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6304" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-12T12:21:57.087" Score="4" ViewCount="13494" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I divide a 1x6 equally to make two 45 degree edge French cleats?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4039" LastActivityDate="2022-11-23T13:35:57.090" Title="How do I rip a 1 x 6 equally with a 45 degree bevel?" Tags="|table-saw|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6304" CreationDate="2017-08-12T12:39:31.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 1 x 6 will be 3/4&quot; thick. A 45° cut will have an offset of 3/4&quot; for placement. Half of that is 3/8&quot;, which will provide for the duplication you seek. Locate the midpoint of the board, move the line by that amount and make your cut. Obviously, you'll want to ensure that your angle is tilted the correct direction. In this case, it's measure twice but also check your triangles, then cut once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/imkkN.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/imkkN.png&quot; alt=&quot;cleat cut&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not to scale, but pretty darn close. The saw blade should be centered on the line in order to balance the kerf material reduction for both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastEditorUserId="3985" LastEditDate="2017-08-13T00:03:52.970" LastActivityDate="2017-08-13T00:03:52.970" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6306" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6316" CreationDate="2017-08-12T16:35:09.610" Score="2" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a curtain pole (made of some type of softwood) with a 35mm diameter. I have some finials with a 25mm recess that I would like to attach to the pole. I am a DIY noob and have very little in the way of tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the best way of attaching these so that there is a decent enough connection (but is also not permanent - i.e. glued - so that I can take the curtains off in the future)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initially I was thinking of filling the finial recess with wood filler, so that it is flush, and then using hook and loop to attach to the pole, although I'm not sure that would give a very good finish as the finial would not appear tight to the pole. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4041" LastActivityDate="2017-08-14T11:25:53.383" Title="Best way to attach a curtain pole finial with a 25mm recess to a 35mm curtain pole" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6307" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-12T16:48:14.463" Score="3" ViewCount="266" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to put the final coat(s) of wipe on poly over a gloss poly next to last coat of material. I previously applied many coats of Gloss polyurethane, but now I need to finish this project today. Can I puddle some epoxy over a few little problem areas, so that I can sand and put on a final cost of wipe on satin poly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4042" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2018-09-27T00:48:16.727" LastActivityDate="2020-02-06T05:01:25.177" Title="Can I puddle a little 2 part epoxy to fix a problem with a flood poly coat" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6304" CreationDate="2017-08-12T22:24:10.420" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't have to divide the board equally to make workable French cleats. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to do multiples that match just pick a fence position that &lt;em&gt;approximately&lt;/em&gt; divides the boards you're starting with, write down that setting so you don't forget it, then rip each subsequent one the same as the first. Attach the same wider or narrower piece to the wall each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-08-12T22:24:10.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6304" CreationDate="2017-08-12T22:54:23.667" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lots of good information in the other answers, but if your OCD is firing up, set the 45 degree blade to rip a smaller chunk closer to the fence (say, 2.5&amp;quot;), then run the offcut through the saw again at that same fence setting. Easier than math, and accounts for multiple slightly different width boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastEditorUserId="503" LastEditDate="2022-11-22T13:15:30.893" LastActivityDate="2022-11-22T13:15:30.893" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6310" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6311" CreationDate="2017-08-12T23:48:01.160" Score="1" ViewCount="962" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have finished several pieces of wood furniture with acrylic lacquer.  Some of them are getting fingerprints, dust, etc on them.  Besides using a simple duster, what product should be used to clean the lacquer surface?  Would Windex Multi-Surface Vinegar be effective and safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2017-08-13T07:15:29.873" Title="What cleaning products can be used on a wood piece coated with acrylic lacquer?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6310" CreationDate="2017-08-13T07:15:29.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dusting and wiping with a dry duster remain the safest cleaning options so should be relied on as much as feasible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would Windex Multi-Surface Vinegar be effective and safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure it would be effective but safe is another matter. Without knowing the exact product you used and how it's made up* it's really impossible to know what commercial cleaning products would and wouldn't be safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than just using plain water warm soapy water is the safest wet cleaning option if you need to take cleaning one step further than wiping dry. The cloth used should be damp and not wet when applied, and ideally you should wipe the surface dry as you go. Since they're now available everywhere use a microfibre cloth rather than the old standby of a dry, lint-free cloth. Microfibre is far more effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to emphasise warm water here, not hot. Under no circumstances should an acrylic product be cleaned with hot water unless you know for sure that it can withstand high temperatures. Many acrylic-based formulations are highly sensitive to heat and can be damaged by exposure to it, to the point where they can become tacky, turn cloudy and/or bubble and peel from the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*A product labelled as &quot;acrylic lacquer&quot; from different manufacturers can be very different things with completely different characteristics because the name isn't defined anywhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most finish names have no legal definitions so the product can be nearly anything the maker wants it to be. The best (or worst depending on your perspective) example of this is &quot;Tung oil finish&quot; which is a finish all right but the most famous example, the original one to the market, contains no tung oil at all and apparently never has. How's that for truth in product labelling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-08-13T07:15:29.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6301" CreationDate="2017-08-13T16:00:17.713" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Per your edit, you appear to be looking for &lt;em&gt;e.g.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Janka_hardness_test&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Janka hardness&lt;/a&gt;, a standardized measure involving indenting a wood sample with a penetrator and measuring the force required to indent a standard amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3334" LastActivityDate="2017-08-13T16:00:17.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6313" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6315" CreationDate="2017-08-13T17:01:09.923" Score="5" ViewCount="3061" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR: How do I fix this, and have it match the final color?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/brrcJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/brrcJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Void in wood&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm getting ready to join some 10.5&quot;-wide red oak for a table top, and one of the boards has a void on an edge, right in the middle (length-wise). It's a gorgeous piece otherwise, and I have a limited supply of these. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw a Wood Whisperer (love that guy!) video where he used a tinted epoxy to fill in a knot. That seems like a reasonable approach, but I'm not sure how that's going to work with the final stain / treatment that my wife insists on using. (It's some sort of tea-based mixture that gives a gray-ish weathered appearance. She's used it on some other pieces and it looks ok.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So, the question!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, I can't stain epoxy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I look for another way to fill the void?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I remove the knot and patch the wood? It's a very irregular shape (duh), not too sure how that would work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How else can I stabilize this section? It's fine if I still see the knot after it's done, but I don't want a piece that's going to crumble or otherwise disintegrate over time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suggestions? Someone else said to replace the knotty section with a bowtie, but I'm not a huge fan of those. I'd love something that would match the grain. But, since this is on the outside edge of the table, I don't see how I could do that and have it either not obvious, or not ugly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3096" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2017-08-13T19:14:00.570" LastActivityDate="2017-08-14T07:34:17.583" Title="Voids, epoxy and staining compatibility" Tags="|staining|filler|knots|epoxy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6313" CreationDate="2017-08-14T04:39:41.383" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a knot. Or at least you are treating it like a knot. Knots don't &lt;em&gt;match&lt;/em&gt; final finish color in virtually all cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic approach - fill with black epoxy. Trying to be subtle but it won't match - fill with a dark gray epoxy. Tossing subtle out the door, fill with epoxy and turquoise (or whatever) chips, polish it up &amp;amp; make it (more of) a feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But my gut reaction to this large of a void on a board that you are choosing to put at the edge of the table is to remove it, or not put it at the edge of the table, or rotate it end for end or top to bottom so the void is not at the edge, at least. I can't tell what percentage of the board is affected, but filling with epoxy is not really a structural repair if the void is more than a cosmetic problem. A void along an interior joint is much less compromising than a void on the actual edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For removal, if there's adequate length to the board, I'd be tempted to try a skew joint or a stepped lap joint that approximates a skew joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3334" LastActivityDate="2017-08-14T04:39:41.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6313" CreationDate="2017-08-14T07:34:17.583" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should I look for another way to fill the void?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a matter of opinion but I don't think so. Epoxy is one of the best, if not &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; best, materials to fill voids and fallen knots. It has become virtually the default choice for this purpose for this reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be mentioned that a void at the edge of a board does represent a significant weak spot, and if structural strength were important one should be removed, patched or the piece of wood replaced with another more suitable. But for a table you don't really have those concerns and I'd have no hesitation in using this board at the edge of a tabletop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should I remove the knot and patch the wood? It's a very irregular shape (duh), not too sure how that would work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although the epoxy can stabilise anything loose that's there (it essentially glues it in place) it's probably best practice to remove everything loose before applying the filler. I carefully scrape and then scrupulously dust off a large knot hole with stiff brushes before dribbling in epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you did want to patch with wood the patch doesn't have to match the natural void shape. In fact it's been common practice for many centuries to ignore the original shape of a defect and patch in a simple-to-cut replacement piece, as in the classic &quot;Dutchman&quot; patch&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How else can I stabilize this section? It's fine if I still see the knot after it's done, but I don't want a piece that's going to crumble or otherwise disintegrate over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taste on this may change in the future but currently the most common way this would be dealt with is with a fill (usually epoxy) and I think this is the best approach myself if you aren't letting in a patch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More on what you can fill and/or tint epoxy with in a previous Answer, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3807/large-hole-filler-products-what-is-available/3809#3809&quot;&gt;Large hole filler products, what is available&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;TL;DR: How do I fix this, and have it match the final color?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you did want it to match the final colour then patching with wood is the only sure-fire way. A fill that very closely matches the final colour of the wood (note that this would have to be done &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; staining) will still stand out plainly from various viewing angles because wood's cellular structure catches light in a way that filler materials don't. This is why fills look 'dead' and can usually be spotted without difficulty from a distance, hence the long-standing advice to use filler as little as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I don't think you should aim for it to match. Dark fills (e.g. tinted black or filled with used coffee grounds) have become the norm and can give a very pleasing result&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. We're now comfortable with highlighting irregularities and even outright defects in wood, embracing that it's a natural material, which is great as it allows us to use wood for show surfaces in furniture that might previously have been put aside for use in rough carpentry at best, but often consigned to the firewood pile!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;It's hard these days to separate butterfly keys from Dutchmen but they are two very different things. &lt;em&gt;They just happen to be the same shape&lt;/em&gt; (sometimes). The classic Dutchman is a cosmetic patch, a butterfly key (as with all keys) is a stabiliser or locking device, used across a joint or a natural crack to prevent movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;The fill doesn't have to be dark if your taste doesn't run to that. You could colour it bright red or blue if you preferred. And metal powders make excellent filler material for resins so a bright copper, brass or pewter fill is easily achievable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-08-14T07:34:17.583" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6306" CreationDate="2017-08-14T11:25:53.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the recess is deep enough, I would try attaching the finial with magnets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neodymium disc magnets are cheap, and even small ones can hold over 1Kg, which should be more than enough for a finial. You can get them with countersunk holes to attach with screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this to work, the finial recess needs to be deep enough to hold a pair of disc magnets. I would try it this way, using magnets with countersunk screw holes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Screw one magnet to the end of the pole. Make sure it's centred in diameter of the pole.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Screw the other magnet inside the recess of the finial. Be careful to centre this one too.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The magnets need to be in contact when assembled, so you will need to adjust the spacing by packing washers behind one or both magnets. Once you're close enough with the washers, you can then make micro-adjustments by backing out the screws slightly. For example, if you can get the magnets to within a few millimetres by packing with washers, then you can unscrew one of the screws by enough to let the magnets touch when assembled. So long as they're close enough to start with, they'll pull themselves together over a short distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's not really a woodworking answer, but that's what I'd try first. The other options involve either reducing the diameter of the end of the pole, or widening the recess in the finial, and neither of those options are very easy, especially for a beginner. A slightly easier version might be to cut down the end of the pole to a square cross-section, then chisel out a corresponding square hole in the finial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2258" LastActivityDate="2017-08-14T11:25:53.383" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6317" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-14T22:11:36.140" Score="1" ViewCount="221" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I've asked in a couple of places about which oils should be used to finish cutting/butcher boards. Mineral oils were on the list as well as other types of products (tung oil, waxes, etc.). Another recommendation was &amp;quot;Hard Top Oil&amp;quot; by Borma Wachs (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bormawachs.com/schede-tecniche/all/ST_EN_4916_Hard_Top_Oil_rev.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;technical sheet&lt;/a&gt;). The abstract describes the product as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[...] a mix of prestigious &lt;strong&gt;modified natural oils&lt;/strong&gt;, [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Allows to obtain high transparency natural effect finishings on kitchen tops and furniture, &lt;strong&gt;even in case of direct contact with food&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Complying to norm &lt;strong&gt;EN71-III – Safe for children’s toys (no release of potentially harmful hazardous substances)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is the following: Has anyone tried this product before (first time I hear about the company) ? Does the &lt;code&gt;EN71-III&lt;/code&gt; standard guarantee safety when in direct contact with food ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EN71 part 3 summary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The EN 71 standard part 3 is focusing on studying the chemicals contained in the toy and the levels in which they are present. Since July 2013, the regulation has extended the metal restrictions and application scope to a wider range of toys. There are 19 metals restricted now. The limitation varies depending if it is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Category I – in dry, brittle, powder-like or pliable toy material:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  Solid materials which may leave residues on the hands.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Category II – in liquid or sticky toy material:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  Fluid or viscous materials which can be ingested or have skin contact.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Category III – in scraped-off toy material:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  Solid materials which can be ingested by biting, tooth scraping, sucking or licking.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4047" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2018-03-19T01:39:30.523" Title="Safety of commercial oil for cutting boards" Tags="|safety|oiling|butcher-block|cutting-board|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6318" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-15T07:10:15.537" Score="2" ViewCount="327" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sharpened like a chisel. Marked with imperial size (means that it is old here in Sweden). Has a back end that has taken quite some beating.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I have an idea it is for decorative purpose but why have size for that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mldCM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mldCM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A tool in the hand is better than 10 in the workshop.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastActivityDate="2017-11-02T16:21:35.657" Title="What is this tool? Chisel-decorative-beating" Tags="|hand-tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6319" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-15T09:45:20.937" Score="7" ViewCount="25403" Body="&lt;p&gt;My sister recently gave my daughter a toy train set. It's sturdy enough —the axels are thick and strong— but they have screw-in brass eyes and hooks to join the carriages together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B22aX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B22aX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These only take 5 full rotations before they're out and that seems well within the possibility of something getting thrown around by a young child. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a good way to bond wood to brass, in strong and permanent way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Running Notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cyanoacrylate appears to set too fast while screwing in. It also doesn't withstand much torque. Possibly related. Better than nothing but something that sets slower and stronger would be better.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The picture might give the wrong impression but that block is only 15mm (⅝&quot;) across. The screw hole is only around 0.5mm (~20thou) in diameter. Whatever we're putting in this either needs work through with the screw or be thin enough to go in.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3990" LastEditorUserId="3990" LastEditDate="2017-08-15T09:53:15.847" LastActivityDate="2021-02-26T23:26:50.037" Title="How to permanently bond metal screws into wood?" Tags="|glue|screws|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6319" CreationDate="2017-08-15T10:19:47.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wood glue. In the hole and possibly around the edges afterwards. The latter looks ugly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe too late but change the loop to something that isn't threaded and does not turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side note fasten a piece of string to the loop. Make the knot ununtiable through heating, plaiding, gluing or whatever means.&#xA;It makes the loop harder to swallow and if it is, there is a chance the string is hanging out. Especially if you fastened something (I am thinking of a wooden ball) to the pulling end of the string.&#xA;I&#xA;So if the kid runs around with the toy in one hand and a red ball hanging out of the mouth just pull the string. carefully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastActivityDate="2017-08-15T10:19:47.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6319" CreationDate="2017-08-15T16:22:19.487" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wood glue does not bond well to metal.  I would either try a thick CA glue or a high-quality epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mentioned CA setting too fast, but there are different types of CA glue.  You probably have a &quot;thin&quot; CA glue.  Try a &quot;thick&quot; CA glue and see if that is still setting too fast.  They normally give you 30 seconds to a minute of open time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My other suggestion would be a high quality 2-part epoxy like West or Entropy.  They bond well to both wood and metal, but they are a bit more complicated to work with.  In addition to mixing the 2 parts in the correct proportions you also need to add an appropriate filler.  Depending on the hardener you use you should have 10 minutes to half an hour of open time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2017-08-15T16:22:19.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6327" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-16T10:31:19.793" Score="2" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is the time that I need to remove the blade since it is dull now, is there any tip or trick to remove the bandsaw blade safely? I use a WEN 14' type model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4054" LastActivityDate="2017-08-16T11:34:40.920" Title="How to remove a blade safely from a bandsaw?" Tags="|band-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6327" CreationDate="2017-08-16T11:34:40.920" Score="4" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;grab a set of gloves and eye protection and put them on.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;unplug the bandsaw&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;open the enclosure and remove the blade insert in the table. Make sure the slot in the table is clear and ready for the blade to come through.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;find the tension knob and turn to release all the blade tension until the blade sits loosely on the upper wheel&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;now you can remove the blade from the wheels and rotate the blade to exit the slot in the table. &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/q/41/20&quot;&gt;Store the blade safely.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;follow steps in reverse to put the new blade on the wheel making sure that the teeth are pointing down.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;before closing the enclosure turn the wheels by hand to make sure the blade tracks properly on the wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2017-08-16T11:34:40.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6319" CreationDate="2017-08-16T18:47:51.897" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a good way to bond wood to brass, in strong and permanent way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this context, no. There's too much available torque to break a glue bond and once you get over the initial resistance you're in much the same position as if you'd applied no glue*. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be very different if you were bonding a flat piece of brass to a wooden surface. Even PVA and other glues not known for their ability to bond metal can work surprisingly well in that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are I think only three reasonable candidates for adhesive here, superglue (cyanoacrylate), foaming polyurethane and epoxy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Superglue&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Very strong in a thin layer but doesn't resist shear well as you note yourself and even the smallest rotation of the brass ring results in a shear force being applied to the glue line. While it could be strong enough to resist turning by the fingers of a child one sharp knock would be enough to crack the glue and render it nearly valueless here*.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Polyurethane&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Worth trying if you already own a bottle since you lose nothing if it doesn't work well enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't already own any and had to buy it for this job though you'd have to make a point of using it up quickly after breaking the seal as it can, and does, go off in the bottle sitting on the shelf — it's not at all uncommon for the great majority of a bottle of polyurethane to go to waste in this way and the glue is not cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although polyurethane is known for its strength I don't know how secure the bond would be here and anyway I think there's a better candidate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Epoxy&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Your best bet of these three I'm sure. Even a basic 5-minute epoxy is surprisingly strong but generally the slower the setting time the stronger the epoxy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slow-setting epoxies tend to be more expensive but at least epoxy has a long shelf life (nearly indefinite IME as long as it is tightly capped) so the unused portion left in the syringes is sure to still be usable somewhere down the line for any future jobs that might crop up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*I say nearly because almost any glue will give some benefit in that it will strengthen the short wood fibres present in the threading in the hole, as well as acting to fill tiny gaps. So even if the glue bond is broken together these will make the brass screw eye much harder to rotate which is a definite benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-08-16T18:47:51.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6330" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-17T15:36:27.863" Score="2" ViewCount="641" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the first time i'm creating what i hope will be a well enough durable axehandle. I don't like to buy my wood, I would rather take a tree down and work from the beginning. It's feels better in some way. I have Aspen trees just 20 meters away from my house, so getting it isn't very challenging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What i know, aspen is a medium strong wood. It flexes very badly, but it is extremely light. I am going to treat it after the head is on the handle, so things like water and insects shouldn't be that big of a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope it's not going to be too horrible. I'm not really going to use it that much, I do this more for fun and to prove my skills. I still want it to be durable enough to be able to be used. I've cut aspen many times before and i have dried it. I know it's stiff but it seems like it can take a beating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4061" LastEditorUserId="4061" LastEditDate="2017-08-17T15:41:29.437" LastActivityDate="2017-08-17T17:16:47.033" Title="Can i use Aspen wood for my beginner axe handle?" Tags="|wood-selection|handle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2017-08-24T12:18:24.633" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6330" CreationDate="2017-08-17T17:16:47.033" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can do it. No, I would not recommend it. Generally speaking, wood hardness is proportional to density. Aspen is a soft wood, and as you have indicated, it is very light. In an application like this where safety is a concern (you dont want that handle flying off!), I would not use a species as soft as this. In a pinch, I would make it out of aspen and for my first project I would take down a proper hardwood (ash and hickory are generally used for axe handles). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2017-08-17T17:16:47.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6332" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6333" CreationDate="2017-08-19T01:25:05.980" Score="1" ViewCount="173" Body="&lt;p&gt;... that allows the steps to collapse and the support brace to pivot inwards so that the unit can lay flat? Some sort of bolt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RIoE9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RIoE9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;pet_steps&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7QcUY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7QcUY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;pet_steps2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4rn8V.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4rn8V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;pet_steps3&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4062" LastActivityDate="2017-08-22T09:25:16.547" Title="What type of hardware is this" Tags="|hardware-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6332" CreationDate="2017-08-19T07:30:53.037" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dowels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could be done multiple ways but I'd say there's a good chance the tread and the riser pivot on dowels. This is the simplest way to make anything like this where a component needs to rotate about an axis, although you could use steel pins* for increased strength and durability a wood-only solution can be strong enough and durable enough for a long service life. The key thing then would be the diameter and strength of the wood used for the dowel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Housed directly in wood or in bushings of plastic or metal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-08-19T07:30:53.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6112" CreationDate="2017-08-22T05:40:44.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently built a custom dog door into our laundry door and our dogs liked to chew on it so I bought some aluminium rails from the local big box hardware store and lined the edge with that. The aluminium is easy enough to work with (and to file down to ensure no sharp edges) but strong enough and distasteful enough to discourage the dogs from mistaking my handiwork for food. Generally dogs will try and chew on a corner or edge where they can get their teeth in so you only need to line these edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4069" LastActivityDate="2017-08-22T05:40:44.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6340" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-22T13:41:25.287" Score="2" ViewCount="719" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in south eastern Canada. Where I live we have relatively high humidity and temperatures from -40°C to +40°C. I more or less finished building my shed that I am going to use for my woodworking. I &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; want to make myself a woodworking bench that can live there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My uncle is also a woodworker. He was given a nice finished workbench from a friend and he put it in his outdoor workshop which is not temperature controlled. We live near each other so the seasonal temperatures as virtually the same for us. Once a year had passed the bench was pulling itself apart, the ends of bench showed the most warping. From what I can tell it was laminated properly. It makes me wonder though....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I make a workbench of laminated wood (mostly ripped 2x10's) with the intention of leaving it out in the winter? Or is that just a disappointment waiting to happen? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose I could use hardware to reinforce the lamination but wood would likely still warp. I can accept a little warping but I don't want there to be room to put my fingers between the boards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2017-08-23T01:05:01.277" LastActivityDate="2017-08-23T08:12:07.923" Title="Can a workbench survive outside in a shed with seasonal temperature variations?" Tags="|workbench|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6342" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-22T21:51:06.373" Score="10" ViewCount="2126" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a vintage Stanley Bailey No. 4 (Type 19 I think, I am new these tools) and after lapping sole and frog surface and putting it back together I found that the iron is skewed and I have to put the lateral adjustment lever almost completely to the right to get even shavings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever I try to align the frog, either the iron is skewed vertically or not perpendicular to the throat. From the top it looks fine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4341/36739773275_5d08d768a3_b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;throat_and_frog_upperside&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when I put in the iron (lateral adjustment lever in the middle) it looks like this from below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4392/36600620151_16672da6af_b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;throat_underside&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I look at the bottom areas where the frog rests on the sole, they seem asymmetrical (I filed one of the inner edges, because I thought it was stuck on some paint). I added lines to make it more obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4358/36600620411_909c86fc5b_b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;frog_underside&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the side which has the smaller contact area in the picture above also seems to be fatter if I look on them from the front:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4442/36739773395_9ed9e6a611_b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;frog_front&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The iron is pretty square and flat. I also tried an different cutting iron from a No. 5 and the problem is the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am doing something wrong or is this a defect of manufacturing? Is that possible or even common for Stanley Bailey planes (of some era)? And if so, how can I fix it? Should I try to file it down? I guess I would have to correct the upper contact area, too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4077" LastActivityDate="2017-08-24T21:31:08.257" Title="Stanley Bailey frog adjustment problem" Tags="|plane|tool-repair|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6340" CreationDate="2017-08-23T08:12:07.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My uncle is also a woodworker. He was given a nice finished workbench from a friend and he put it in his outdoor workshop which is not temperature controlled. We live near each other so the seasonal temperatures as virtually the same for us. Once a year had passed the bench was pulling itself apart, the ends of bench showed the most warping. From what I can tell it was laminated properly. It makes me wonder though....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that's as much to do with the way the bench he was given was made (regardless of whether it was commercial or shop-built) than a sign that a benchtop made in that way can't withstand wide swings in conditions*.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That bench was likely made at least somewhat like furniture, if not in exactly the same way. So the wood would have been quite dry and in damper conditions dry wood of course swells quite a bit. And because a workbench is not intended to be exposed to water they could well have used a non-waterproof glue, although it is possible the glue used is waterproof as they might use it for everything regardless (again true for both commercial and shop-built). If the glue used is a water-resistant or waterproof variety then it signifies that whoever made it needs to overhaul their glueing processes! Because well-glued long-grain joints can't come apart — the wood has to fail for a split to occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long, boring TL;DR here about wood selection for maximum stability in a top made up this way but brief version, most tops are also not made from carefully-selected wood. This is most especially true of commercial glue-ups, where due to manufacturing expediences 99% of the time &lt;em&gt;no consideration whatsoever&lt;/em&gt; is given to grain orientation from board to board. They basically grab the next board from the supply at hand and put it in there, regardless of whether its grain might put stress on the overall structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I suppose I could use hardware to reinforce the lamination but wood would likely still warp. I can accept a little warping but I don't want there to be room to put my fingers between the boards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of workbench plans that utilise the same method used in some butcher block construction, with through bolts (threaded rod). This could go a long way towards ensuring great stiffness and resistance to warping in a glued-up top, but it is a hassle in terms of construction because every board has to be accurately drilled multiple times &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; glue-up. Note: if you want to consider this it's worth pricing the rod right now to help make the decision as it may be surprisingly expensive, it is here, and you need four or more lengths of it the full width of your proposed top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*I would personally ditch the idea of the glued-up top. It's not necessary for a functional bench and by putting it aside you can save yourself a lot of time and effort in construction, while simultaneously ensuring your top will be far less subject to movement with wide swings in humidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I wouldn't exactly recommend the material I have seen a workbench in an unheated, uninsulated, draughty garage with an OSB top and as far as I can tell from just looking at it it hasn't warped in the 20 or 30 years since it was built. I haven't worked on it so I can't say how much if any movement has occurred but it certainly looked flat enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you know board materials in general are far less subject to seasonal movement, so a top made from MDF, plywood, chipboard/particleboard or yes, even OSB, is going to be far more stable than almost any bench made from solid wood. With the added advantage that they're far easier and faster to put together (less than an hour and done is possible) and furthermore will often cost substantially less, which is nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-08-23T08:12:07.923" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6342" CreationDate="2017-08-23T08:21:27.167" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was having a hard time visualising things from the photos so I have a frog here in front of me to compare. Unfortunately it isn't helping me figure out what's wrong with your plane! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Am doing something wrong or is this a defect of manufacturing? Is that possible or even common for Stanley Bailey planes (of some era)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's a defect in the plane, although I can't figure out what it is* you do see some variation on this routinely on Bailey-pattern metal planes (at least on mass-market ones, I don't know if L-N, Clifton or Veritas planes have these sorts of issues with their higher tolerances).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have to put the lateral adjustment lever almost completely to the right to get even shavings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's your workaround right there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of whether the plane was like this before you did anything to it, if the lateral-adjustment lever pushed far to the right allows you to take even shavings then run the plane that way. It's perfectly fine to have a bench plane set up that way — if you look at photos of many vintage planes in use in amateur and professional workshops you'll find examples where the lever is in this position. Some lean to left or right will be down to slop in the mechanism but slop wouldn't account for the cases where it's pushed far over, so sometimes it's going to be to adjust for this sort of projection issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*I think it's a combination of factors rather than down to one thing which is why the cause is not standing out &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-08-23T08:21:27.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6345" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-23T08:58:13.507" Score="3" ViewCount="2362" Body="&lt;p&gt;My journey into woodworking started with the purchase of a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; cheap ALDI own-brand WorkZone bandsaw. I'll include a picture at the end. It's functionally not &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; bad but they had to cut corners to get this out the door for £79.99.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;most&lt;/em&gt; annoying thing is the plate steel table:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There's no mitre slot (making square cross-cuts very difficult)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It flexes under stress&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The fence doesn't grip it well (again because it flexes under stress)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I've found myself doing more freehand and short cuts than anything else. But for all its flaws, there are still moments I need to use it for strange cuts where my table saw just won't... erm... cut it. For example, it's far more economical to use for cutting veneer strips for bent laminations, even if I do spend all day sanding them back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next step up is ~£350 and takes up a lot more space. I'm really hopeful somebody's going to suggest a sub-£100 option to give me a rigid, flat table that has better options for accessories. There may be other arguments for throwing this one in the bin and replacing it. Let me know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rrEpt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rrEpt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3990" LastActivityDate="2019-03-05T19:23:13.787" Title="Upgrading a cheap bandsaw table?" Tags="|band-saw|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6345" CreationDate="2017-08-23T10:03:51.477" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;That table looks like stamped sheetmetal with very little supporting structure underneath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a look underneath the table, see if it's possible to fill the empty space with wood to reinforce the entire thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure there is enough clearance for normal operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't work for you, you can just scrap that table and replace it with a piece of plywood bolted to the same hinge construction. Make sure to keep the rest of the sheet for future projects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2017-08-23T10:03:51.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6347" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6792" CreationDate="2017-08-23T19:08:49.243" Score="3" ViewCount="4568" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting ready to attach breadboard ends to my table top. The top and ends are cut from 9.5&quot; x 1.5&quot; red oak. Purely for aesthetic reasons, the breadboards will also be 9.5&quot; wide (or deep, rather).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've thought about either M&amp;amp;T, or a continuous tenon with a single long mortise in the ends, with dowels through the bottom (draw bore with elongated slots in the tongue / tenon / whatever you want to call it in this case.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a reasonable approach for a 9.5&quot; piece that's basically hanging off in the ether? Is there any advantage to doing individual tenons on each board rather than a single long one&#xA;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, what dimensions should I target for the tenon length? Assuming it's 1/2&quot; thick - 1/3rd of the board thickness - is 2&quot; deep enough? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the articles &amp;amp; videos I've read say to only glue the center board so that the rest can move within the groove as necessary. However, the top is made from four boards, so there's no &quot;center.&quot; I assume that, if it's glued to one of the center boards, then the table will &quot;grow&quot; more relative to one end of the breadboard than the other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are my plan and dimensions sound?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Where should I glue this thing?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3096" LastEditorUserId="3096" LastEditDate="2017-08-23T19:23:08.337" LastActivityDate="2018-03-05T17:48:31.870" Title="Wide breadboard tenon length?" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5678" CreationDate="2017-08-23T20:28:47.793" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do it continuously, with usually as many boards as the blade has capacity to cut at once, never any issues with binding or off cuts. I'm not sure about accuracy because my work isn't that precise if the cut is off an 1/8&quot; or beveled a few degrees I don't notice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there's increased wear on the saw and blade... but then again there's increased wear every time you plug it in, in my  opinion do whatever you prefer and makes the job go by easier/more enjoyable there's no serious danger either way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4080" LastEditorDisplayName="user862" LastEditDate="2017-08-23T22:54:43.550" LastActivityDate="2017-08-23T22:54:43.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6349" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-23T22:37:48.390" Score="2" ViewCount="2579" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought some beautiful porcelain knobs for my kitchen cabinets and drawers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The&quot;wood&quot; is impenetrable. I was only able to drill a tiny bit in. Then I smelled burning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestion on how I can drill through it? I've done extensive research and looked at many options, none of which seem to fit my issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for any suggestions you can give me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4082" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2017-08-24T07:47:10.530" LastActivityDate="2017-08-24T07:47:10.530" Title="Drilling through fiberboard" Tags="|wood|power-tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6350" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6352" CreationDate="2017-08-23T22:47:52.927" Score="2" ViewCount="238" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to make a low platform for my washer/dryer. Its sole purpose is to provide a level surface; my basement floor is scary uneven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm envisioning something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OiPxF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OiPxF.png&quot; alt=&quot;platform&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The leveling feet are similar to this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LIG6B.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LIG6B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;feet&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The model is assuming 4x4's, although I would use 2x4's if they're strong enough.  I'll put plywood on the top for more strength.  I'll hollow out some depressions for the appliance feet to nest into...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to use four leveling feet instead of six, but I don't want to center to sag. How can I calculate if the center feet are required?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4084" LastActivityDate="2017-08-23T23:38:41.163" Title="When do I need to support the center of a horizontal, load-bearing board?" Tags="|wood|design|strength|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6350" CreationDate="2017-08-23T22:53:40.577" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are various online calculators you can use to determine how much a given span will sag.  This is the one of the more popular ones:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2017-08-23T22:53:40.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6350" CreationDate="2017-08-23T23:38:41.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're thinking of placing them side-by-side on that platform, I'd use the 2x4s and six leveling feet. There is twice the load at the middle that there is at each end, half the washer weight (including significant water weight when running) and half the dryer weight. Even if it took the load initially, there is vibration and potentially moisture at work and sooner or later you're likely to get visible sagging. If you add the extra pair of leveling feet in the middle, it will stay right where you set it indefinitely. You can use the money you save on the wood to pay for the feet :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, make sure the feet are attached firmly to the 2x4, perhaps with a tee-nut on the top and a fender washer on the bottom, so they don't wallow-out their hole with the side-to-side vibration forces. You'll want to keep them screwed in as far as possible within your leveling constraints, to minimize the bending moment on the threaded shafts and the stress it places on the hole it's in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2017-08-23T23:38:41.163" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6349" CreationDate="2017-08-23T23:46:26.677" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would strongly suspect a dull drill bit. Fiberboard is tough on drill bits, but a sharp new one (unless it's a Chinese cheapy made from carbon steel) should certainly hold up for several holes, say 25-50 easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A high-speed steel (HSS) drill bit will usually have &quot;HS&quot; or &quot;HSS&quot; imprinted on the shaft near where the size is stamped. If yours don't, it's time for a trip to the hardware store. Any brand-name twist drill bits will be HSS (Dewalt, Hanson, Vermont American, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But material aside, even HSS eventually dulls. If the cutting edges at the business end of the bit appear dull or rounded, that will explain your trouble and time for a new bit. A hardware store will generally sell them individually, so no need to buy a whole new set necessarily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2017-08-23T23:46:26.677" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2335" CreationDate="2017-08-24T03:50:55.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your using pva glue when you soak your brush in acetone it dissolves the glue and make you brush fine again&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4085" LastActivityDate="2017-08-24T03:50:55.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6356" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6357" CreationDate="2017-08-24T16:06:15.467" Score="13" ViewCount="11063" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see router bits marketed as flush trim bits, pattern bits, template bits, but they all seem to be similar in design. The cutting edges are exactly lined up with a bearing, so that an exact copy of a piece can be cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, Rockler sells a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/pattern-flush-trim-router-bit-1-4-inch-shank-and-1-2-inch-shank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;flush trim&lt;/a&gt; bit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xdZj7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xdZj7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;flush trim bit&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/1-2-pattern-router-bit&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;pattern&lt;/a&gt; bit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z8QCb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z8QCb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;pattern bit&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and Amazon sells a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000HZX4WE&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;template&lt;/a&gt; bit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2RLGi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2RLGi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;template bit&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They all seem to be identical in function (although the linked pattern bit is shorter, so it can't cut as deep of a copy as the others can), so is this just a marketing thing? Rockler's flush trim bit I linked is even listed as a &quot;Pattern flush trim bit&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastActivityDate="2019-02-04T17:16:44.777" Title="What is the difference between flush trim, pattern, and template router bits?" Tags="|router-bit|terminology|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6356" CreationDate="2017-08-24T16:13:58.683" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;A flush trim bit has the bearing at the bottom of the bit.  This is so that it can trim a layer of laminate (i.e. Formica) that has been attached to the top of a smaller substrate (i.e. MDF or particle board) flush to the substrate.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A pattern or template bit has the bearing at the top of the bit (between the shank and the cutting blades.)  This is so that it can follow a template attached to the top of a larger workpiece, cutting the workpiece to match the template.  I believe that the terms &quot;pattern bit&quot; and &quot;template bit&quot; are interchangeable.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your first picture is incorrectly labeled.  That is a pattern/template bit, NOT a flush trim bit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also worth mentioning, some flush trim bits have cutting surfaces on the tip of the bit to allow plunging it through a laminate.  (These typically have a flat reference surface instead of a bearing.)  This is useful if you've laminated over a hole in the substrate that you want to remain open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2019-02-04T17:16:44.777" LastActivityDate="2019-02-04T17:16:44.777" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6358" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6361" CreationDate="2017-08-24T21:12:38.323" Score="2" ViewCount="730" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a used bandsaw from a neighbor (AMT 14&quot; model 4113).  It needs new tires, but when I went to measure their width/thickness, I discovered that the wheels are only 13&amp;nbsp;3/4&quot; in diameter (with the tires on).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this the typical size of a 14&quot; bandsaw's wheels?  If I buy 14&quot; tires, will they fit, or do I have to buy 13&amp;nbsp;3/4&quot; tires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4089" LastActivityDate="2017-08-25T20:05:37.957" Title="Are the wheels of a bandsaw exactly the nominal diameter?" Tags="|power-tools|band-saw|tool-repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6342" CreationDate="2017-08-24T21:31:08.257" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;To update on what I finally did:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I worked up my courage to file the frog and it came out very good! ;-) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First I put some washers under the contact areas of the frog on one side to find out how much the difference is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4405/36736084966_da57b53bf2_b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;frog_washers&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I installed everything with the washers in place and it worked nicely on the first try. I could leave the lateral adjustment lever in the middle [i]and[/i] get even shavings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I measured the thickness of the washers (1 mm) and made marks on the side of the frog accordingly with a knife and a calliper. The I filed it down to the marks and tried to get it as flat as possible (and everything in the same plane). I had to sand the upper part on a granite tile, because I was not able to do it with the file. I test-fitted it occasionally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After I could feel no more wobble, I put everything back together and: ta-da! It fits great and I can leave the lever almost exactly in the middle. I am much happier now. ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4077" LastActivityDate="2017-08-24T21:31:08.257" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6360" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-25T14:15:23.340" Score="1" ViewCount="201" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just finishing installing tongue and groove wood planks on my walls and ceiling. I have quite a few leftover small end pieces, especially at 45 degree angles (pitched ceiling). Can anyone think of a way to use those pieces to create a wood floor (I have 3/4 inch thick white and ponderosa pine). One thing I was thinking about is gluing them to the subfloor and filling the voids with mortar. But I have no idea if this even makes sense. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4091" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2017-08-27T23:22:34.663" LastActivityDate="2017-08-27T23:22:34.663" Title="Tongue and Groove Scraps - Can you create a floor with them" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6358" CreationDate="2017-08-25T20:05:37.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bandsaw tires are generally sold in 2&quot; increments corresponding to the nominal size of the bandsaw wheels. As the comments indicate, there is some elasticity, so neither the wheels nor tires need to be exact. nominal 14&quot; tires go on nominal 14&quot; wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2017-08-25T20:05:37.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6362" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-26T10:35:54.557" Score="5" ViewCount="111" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning on making a sofa. I have my tools and my wood. Do I have to apply any type of treatment to the wood before I assemble it? I mean at the end I'm going to be stapling textiles on it and adding pillows and cushions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4094" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2017-08-27T23:20:26.107" LastActivityDate="2017-10-29T01:04:10.327" Title="Do I have to treat the wood before I assemble it?" Tags="|furniture|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6363" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6365" CreationDate="2017-08-26T21:55:07.123" Score="5" ViewCount="902" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard conflicting anecdotal advice on how to put down a hand plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Don't put a hand plane down on its bottom; always put it on its side or you'll throw off the blade.&quot; (source: Grandfather, who was a contractor for 50+ years)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and also&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Don't put a hand plane down on its side; always put it on its bottom or you'll throw off the blade.&quot; (random people on the Internet)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a more correct way to set down a hand plane? What is the best way to store a hand plane?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2739" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2017-08-27T06:12:52.647" LastActivityDate="2017-08-27T06:12:52.647" Title="How should I set a hand plane down?" Tags="|hand-tools|hand-planing|storage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6363" CreationDate="2017-08-27T00:54:17.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you really have to ask if your grandfather is more authoritative than random people on the internet? (Of whom, I should note, I am one.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put the plane down gently. It's a good habit to put the plane on its side, though I'm occasionally guilty of not doing this when the surface it's being placed on is non-abrasive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2017-08-27T00:54:17.270" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6363" CreationDate="2017-08-27T06:11:48.797" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Lay your plane on it's side son.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the long-standing advice. It is old, nobody knows how old, but many (most?) now don't do this, some to deliberately buck Old Timer advice (which can often seem folksy and overly cautious*) but some because they've thought through the problem and come to a definite conclusion not to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The evidence is in and it appears that you don't need to set a hand plane down on its side and I think the majority no longer do this. But it's still worth looking into it a little and see whether it might be good advice, as it apparently once was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why you should&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The usual explanation given for why you should do this is to prevent damage to the cutter, and at first glance this does seem to make sense. But then you think about it a bit and realise that the edge of this cutter is (repeatedly, and at speed!) going to be asked to run over wood much like you were about to place it down on and you're not worried about it being damaged by that. So it sort of doesn't make sense. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then you think about it just a little further — a benchtop is not the same as the wood you are working. Its surface is older, maybe scarred from use (look at old benches and their tops are often in horrible shape, even in really good workshops producing quality stuff) and all those imperfections might hold untold horrors when it comes to abrasive particles from many possible sources. I wouldn't want to risk the finely honed edge of a plane iron on that, much less risk picking up some grit on the sole of the plane (lubricated as they were with oil or grease) which could be transferred to the workpiece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why you shouldn't&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;One reason given for why we shouldn't do this now is that the old advice comes from an era when planes were made from wood with an iron very firmly held by a wedge, and so they retained lateral adjustment much better than metal bench planes with the usual mechanism. So, the thinking goes, any of the standard Bailey-style metal planes may lose lateral adjustment if laid on their side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find this superficial thinking and unsatisfying because of course many generations of users of metal planes &lt;em&gt;were&lt;/em&gt; following the old advice by rote and dutifully laying their planes on their side and obviously weren't experiencing problems with lateral adjustment being thrown off. We can know this with some certainty because if it had been occurring regularly we'd have heard about the risk through the anecdotal sources and it would be immortalised in print in at least some of the books, and yet both are silent on this possibility. Well, until now and the easy spread of oddball ideas through the Internet!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another reason given is that a plane laid on its side exposes the sole with the iron projecting slightly and this poses a danger to knuckles etc. accidentally bumped into or passing by the plane as you reach for something. This is much more convincing. I've nearly cut myself in just this way so it's not merely a theoretical danger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The bottom line for a lot of us&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;More than a few current woodworking gurus using hand planes, with both wood and metal bodies, don't lay their planes on their sides and haven't done for many decades &lt;em&gt;and have never had an iron's edge become damaged as a result&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since most of us will be using our planes far, far less then they will and in a similar working environment (clean, or at least cleanish, indoor workshops) it's a fairly safe bet that you can safely follow suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;But....&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;However, if you work on building sites and the surface you lay your plane down on might be contaminated with who-knows-what dust, metal particles and random specs of grit from many possible sources then it only makes sense to be more cautious and lay your planes on their sides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Working at home you can follow the old advice and lay your planes on their sides if you want to, regardless of your reasoning, but I would caution to lay them down the the sole facing away from the side(s) of the bench you commonly stand at. Or lay it in your tool tray if you have one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*You'll read in some older guides that chisels were supposed to be placed bevel down as well to protect their edges, which most assuredly seems unnecessarily cautious to modern users working in their home workshops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-08-27T06:11:48.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6367" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-28T18:15:45.697" Score="3" ViewCount="1334" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a beautiful office desk made from a soft wood.  Before I could set up proper safeguards, my son laid down a piece of paper and went to writing -- and pressed all of his words into the wood top through the paper.  !!!! What can I do?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4104" LastActivityDate="2017-08-28T20:39:11.930" Title="How to get writing out of a soft wood desk top" Tags="|finishing|wood-repair|refinishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6367" CreationDate="2017-08-28T20:39:11.930" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on how damaged the wood fibers are,  you might be able to salvage at least some of it by dampening the area and heating it to swell the fibers. This is commonly done with a wet cloth and hot iron. Use the cleanest cloth and water you can (DI/distilled if possible). Lay the cloth on the wood, then press it with a hot iron. Check your progress every couple seconds, and don't let the cloth dry out - you dont want to discolor anything by burning. It may or may not work, but it's worth a try. You might have to lightly sand the area with ultra fine sandpaper when you'd done (320+ grit) as the water may raise the grain (but first let the area dry out completely and then assess). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2017-08-28T20:39:11.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6370" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-29T04:31:22.307" Score="2" ViewCount="1459" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rSkYw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rSkYw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm currently working on a boxed-shaped chair made out of OSB (oriented-strand board). I'll be using it as a chair, but the surface of it is very rough and has some splinters on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think just sanding it is enough. Maybe I need more than just sanding it, like stain or varnish? But I'm a very new to woodworking and don't know how to smooth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you guys let me know what to do with this to make it smooth enough to sit on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance! Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4108" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2017-08-29T07:53:17.610" LastActivityDate="2017-08-29T08:30:59.787" Title="OSB chair finishing" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6370" CreationDate="2017-08-29T06:47:24.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Put epoxy on it. It makes for a sturdy surface that can be shiny or dull depending on what you do afterwards.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Without thinking too much about it I would epoxy one surface at a time to make the surface flat.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Which kind of epoxy depends on where in the world you are living, different countries and cities have different factories and resellers.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I would also make some scrap, epoxied, parts and polish them to different gloss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now when I have answered your &lt;em&gt;finishing&lt;/em&gt; question I answer:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Put a cushion on. Fast, cheap, gives you time for another project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastActivityDate="2017-08-29T06:47:24.257" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6370" CreationDate="2017-08-29T08:30:59.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I don't think just sanding it is enough. Maybe I need more than just sanding it, like stain or varnish? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although the term has been diluted in recent years stain is for colouring wood, varnish for coating it for protection etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To finish this off and make it comfortable to use I would remove or carefully glue down any particularly large splinters, then give the whole piece a good sanding (probably best done with a random-orbit sander) followed by finishing it with a film finish, e.g. varnish or similar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Some tips on sanding&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Be careful when sanding not to round over the visible corners and edges too much*. I would recommend you sand the bottom edges more however, to give them a slight chamfer of at least 2mm or a little over a 1/16&quot;, which will help prevent splintering when the box is moved about. The same thing is commonly done on table and chair legs. If the box will be used on carpet you should make the chamfer wider (double if necessary) and be sure to varnish this bottom edge as well as the visible surfaces. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Finish recommendation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As your Comment above indicates you don't want the colour changed too much I think your best option in terms of finish is a waterbased polyurethane. I think you'll get find it easiest to get a good result if you use a roller to apply it (either foam or with a short knap). Three coats should be sufficient to give a smooth enough, cohesive surface that you can live with but don't be afraid to apply a couple of additional coats if the OSB looks like it needs it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to minimally changing the colour of wood waterbased coatings have some other advantages for you. The first is they are easily obtained, you don't need to go to a specialist supplier as any paint store or home centre should have at least a couple to pick from. Also they're fairly cheap as far as finishes go and of course cleanup couldn't be easier, you just use soap and water, which also saves money up front as you don't need to buy any solvents or brush cleaners to clean brushes or rollers. Last but not least they don't have a strong odour, something many people new to finishing find objectionable with solvent-based finishes is their pronounced smell especially as this can linger for hours or longer so you're not just dealing with it right at the time of application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*You do want to soften them slightly (also referred to as 'relieving' or 'breaking' the edges) but it's easy to go too far and have something with nice clean lines like this end up looking a bit rounded, something generally frowned upon by woodworkers and taken as a sign of sloppy workmanship (unless it's clearly part of the look of a piece).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This relieving has two functions, the first is tactile in that a sharp edge in wood can be quite uncomfortable and a slight softening makes a big difference in how nice something is to handle. The second is to aid in finishing as finishes creep away from sharp edges when they're wet, leaving them only partially coated and prone to getting grubby over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-08-29T08:30:59.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6373" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-29T12:40:09.633" Score="2" ViewCount="6106" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to this forum and new to woodworking as well...I'm renovating my daughter's bathroom and she wanted the cabinets stained darker. I thought that would be pretty simple () and inexpensive so I agreed. So I scuffed up the cabinets and applied the poly in as thin a coat as I could. 13 hours later it's still tacky, and I'm afraid to sand or apply another coat, even though the can says you can apply more after 4-6 hours.  Is it still in that &quot;2 phase&quot; drying process I've read about? It looks great for the most part but has some strange little spots where the poly appears to have spread out and thinned. Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4109" LastActivityDate="2017-10-29T16:12:54.597" Title="Minwax poly stain still sticky" Tags="|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6374" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6378" CreationDate="2017-08-30T11:28:39.363" Score="10" ViewCount="3201" Body="&lt;p&gt;When sharpening tools such as chisels and plane irons, I do little and often, stopping work, 20-30 strokes or so on a 3000 grit water stone (this is enough to get a burr the full width of the blade), 20-30 strokes on a leather strop with some chromium oxide compound, and carry on. This for me seems to work well, with the tools passing the common sharpness tests (shaving, cutting paper, slicing your thumb, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many videos and tutorials from the much respected internet woodworkers show them always going from a coarse medium through to a fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the benefit to working through the grits for a common touch up? I fully understand starting at a lower grit if an edge gets a chip or a ding, but for touch ups I can't see the value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3165" LastEditorUserId="3165" LastEditDate="2017-08-30T11:44:32.150" LastActivityDate="2017-08-30T22:12:14.797" Title="Sharpening - grit progression" Tags="|sharpening|plane|chisel|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6374" CreationDate="2017-08-30T11:55:21.757" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;there is none. eventually you will wear the blade down enough at 3000 grit to the point where it will take too long to sharpen while maintaining the same bevel angle. At that point a return to coarser grit will be necessary. Otherwise, your approach is the most efficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2017-08-30T11:55:21.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6374" CreationDate="2017-08-30T12:10:20.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should start with the finest grit to get the result you want. If the 3000 grit wet stone is that grit for you, you are doing it correctly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your approach is very similar to mine. I do a little work, and then sharpen my tool. Ensures I have a sharp, easy to work with tool the entire time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3612" LastActivityDate="2017-08-30T12:10:20.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6373" CreationDate="2017-08-30T15:14:00.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O9N6s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;middle door is without stirring &quot;&gt; &#xA;Guys thanks for your answers! You're all going to get a kick out of this but I have to admit a big rookie mistake I did not stir the stain before I put it on the cabinets! In this case shaken and not stirred didn't cut it! It's new Minwax poly stain espresso colored. Anyway I put one coat on the door fronts yesterday and added a second coat on top of the light and it turned out the same color. Also it dried quicker and it dried to a satin finish which is what it was supposed to do rather than shiny. They look great! Not perfect but great. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4109" LastActivityDate="2017-08-30T15:14:00.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6374" CreationDate="2017-08-30T16:29:54.720" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Many videos and tutorials from the much respected internet woodworkers show them always going from a coarse medium through to a fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think there are three key things here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With respect to a few of them, the category &quot;Internet woodworker&quot; does not in general mean you're getting info from the best and most experienced craftsmen. Always worth bearing that in mind to begin with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second is that every workman's tool wear, &lt;em&gt;and acceptance of same&lt;/em&gt;, is slightly different. Using equivalent tools, if one person is working much more on hardwoods, particularly harder or more abrasive species, and another is almost entirely using common softwoods their respective need to sharpen will be wildly different. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third thing is, and this is the most important probably, there is a massive gulf in the sharpening routines from one end of the spectrum using one stone, sometimes with no strop (yes really) to the guys at the opposite end with five or more stones routinely used for normal sharpening (honing). Additionally some sharpen a bit and test their edges to see if they've done enough, others work through a sharpening routine by rote and therefore don't have to check because they know that it'll always have returned an edge to working sharpness (this is Paul Sellers for example, he's one who specifically advises always working through from coarse to fine surfaces and ending with a good stropping). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now on to what you do specifically. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;20-30 strokes or so on a 3000 grit water stone (this is enough to get a burr the full width of the blade), 20-30 strokes on a leather strop with some chromium oxide compound, and carry on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's working for you and that's the main thing, but, for some the fact that 20-30 strokes are needed indicates that the stone you're using is a little too fine&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. There isn't a single standard here by any means but very broadly speaking you should be able to turn a burr in 10-20 strokes and doing it in under ten can be a realistic goal.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is the benefit to working through the grits for a common touch up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most people, there isn't one. Doing so is simply wearing away more steel than is necessary to get back to sharp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now in the grand scheme of things this excess wear is NOT a big deal. The entire lifespan of an edged tool is more than one generation in almost all cases so even if you &lt;em&gt;significantly&lt;/em&gt; shorten something's lifespan you're unlikely to notice it :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I don't think anyone needs to go through a full grit progression&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; just to deal with common edge wear. You should only &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; to do this from normal use if a ridiculous amount of time has passed since the last sharpening and any such edge is long past functioning like it is supposed to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;One person's bottom line&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If routine sharpening (honing) is taking longer than a couple of minutes per edge you're not doing it efficiently. The fastest workers, honing little and often as almost all of us should, can get an edge back to workably sharp in 30-60 seconds and IMO that's the thing to aim for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: if you can't do it that fast and you want to, then shorten the interval between honings, change your sharpening materials, or both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;You're honing on a stone finer than the majority of workmen had in the shop for most the last few centuries of European and American woodworking to put it into perspective. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;Especially if it starts at a truly coarse grit and then goes through five or more grits, ending up at a very very fine grit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2017-08-30T22:12:14.797" LastActivityDate="2017-08-30T22:12:14.797" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6379" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6380" CreationDate="2017-08-30T20:34:44.433" Score="7" ViewCount="295" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a router table out of pretty thick plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5jyTQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Router table&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of this I need to stick the router bit at the top of the collet to get it to clear the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pu3XZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that ok or must I stick the router bit as far down the chuck shaft as possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4110" LastActivityDate="2017-09-02T21:09:01.620" Title="is it ok to tighten a router bit so the bottom is flush with the bottom of the collet?" Tags="|router|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6379" CreationDate="2017-08-30T21:07:42.793" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A router bit shaft flexes more than you might think, especially one like you show with a big heavy body and relatively large diameter. Because they spin at high speed, that head carries a very large amount of energy &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rotational_energy&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rotational_energy&lt;/a&gt; (note the energy increases with the &lt;em&gt;square&lt;/em&gt; of the angular velocity (RPM roughly, probably radians per second in that formula).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The net of it is you don't want that thing working its way out or breaking off because it could do some serious damage if it hit you. Very much like a bullet I would expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So best to keep the extended length as short as possible and definitely not cheat the collet by not having the shaft going all the way through it. In a pinch, I'd run at lower speed when the bit is not fully inserted (bottomed and then pulled out 1/16&quot; or so to accommodate shaft lengthening with heat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend replacing the top with something thinner so your tool doesn't encourage bad habits. This sort of thing is easy to forget over time and you don't want it biting you one day when you're not thinking about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that collets wear over time. Especially in this case you'll need to make sure it's fitting closely to both the shaft and the spindle taper. In particular, you'll want to ensure the collet has not become &quot;bell-mouthed&quot;, and that the entire internal collet surface is bearing on the shaft, to maximize the friction that keeps it in place and support the shaft over the entire length of the collet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2017-08-30T21:07:42.793" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6381" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-31T12:06:14.230" Score="1" ViewCount="658" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in the process of building a bench for indoor use out of hard maple. It will only get indirect sun when it is complete. This is my first project with this light of a wood (I've worked primarily with cherry in previous projects.) I'm looking for non-yellowing finish suggestions that will keep the natural look of the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3612" LastActivityDate="2017-08-31T15:47:15.620" Title="What is a good non-yellowing finish for maple?" Tags="|finishing|furniture|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6381" CreationDate="2017-08-31T15:47:15.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally the the least yellowing common finishes, in order, would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water-borne poly &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Water white&quot; lacquer &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blond shellac&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2017-08-31T15:47:15.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6383" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6385" CreationDate="2017-08-31T17:48:21.097" Score="3" ViewCount="204" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a work bench I built, and the top is 3/4&quot; MDF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a lightweight drill press that I'd like to be able to fix to the top as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thought was to somehow have a couple of threaded holes in the top that I could then use to just temporarily bolt the drill press in place as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But how would I do that? Basically, I want a couple of threaded holes for bolts to go in, but I'm not sure if that exists or what it's called to even search for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what those are called? Or other ideas on how to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4114" LastActivityDate="2017-09-01T08:22:56.953" Title="Drop-in threaded hole for screw?" Tags="|screws|fasteners|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6383" CreationDate="2017-08-31T18:03:02.297" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use threaded inserts (like this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ezlok.com/inserts-for-wood&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.ezlok.com/inserts-for-wood&lt;/a&gt;) or T-nuts (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/T-nut&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/T-nut&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2017-08-31T18:03:02.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6383" CreationDate="2017-08-31T18:21:53.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;SaSSafraS1232 definitely has the right idea, although I would strongly prefer T-nuts &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boltdepot.com/T-Nuts_Zinc_plated_steel.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.boltdepot.com/T-Nuts_Zinc_plated_steel.aspx&lt;/a&gt; for this application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me the main reason would be pull-out strength and resistance to &quot;racking&quot; forces (side-to-side movement, not sure racking is quite the right term).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the t-nut's broad face, it's unlikely to pull through unless there's a catastrophic failure of the board itself (like you ran into the drill press with a forklift or something).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the threaded insert, some side-to-side motion could gradually weaken the threads in the wood and cause the insert to pull out, probably leaving a crater in the surface of the MDF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I think even newly installed pull-out strength would be significantly higher with the t-nuts. It would make an interesting test if you had some spare MDF handy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that t-nuts also come in versions with brad holes instead of prongs, which might suit better in your case as they would resist popping out when you drop a bolt in to fasten things up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2017-08-31T18:21:53.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6386" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-01T01:40:04.967" Score="1" ViewCount="394" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of making home made C-clamps. While I want to go with metal screws, it seems like buying an acme wood tap is cheaper than Acme nuts, along with the problem of cutting hexagonal holes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;how durable are interior threads in wood when subjected to metal acme threads and the stresses of clamping?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4110" LastActivityDate="2017-09-01T03:17:32.027" Title="How well does metal ACME threaded work with wood holes tapped with ACME threads?" Tags="|clamps|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6387" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-01T02:28:04.073" Score="2" ViewCount="855" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lets say I wanted to make homemade wooden C-clamps. Is there any advantage to using a better grade of ACME thread than single start RH 2G? Will 3G or 4G buy me anything? What about multiple starts or 2C, 3C and 4C?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4110" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2017-09-01T08:19:12.640" LastActivityDate="2017-09-01T08:19:12.640" Title="Which Acme thread class is best for homemade wood clamps?" Tags="|clamps|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6386" CreationDate="2017-09-01T03:17:32.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can grind at all well, you can make a wood tap from a section of your acme threaded rod probably cheaper than you can buy the tap, but it depends how you value your time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How durable the threads are depends on the species of wood, the engagement length, how stable things are (if the wood shrinks and swells a lot with a steel screw in it, the wood threads get damaged to an extent that varies with how much the wood shrinks/swells - there's also a contrary relationship where more engagement length makes the threads stronger, but also more prone to damage from wood movement) and potentially any surface or penetrating treatment you might give the wooden threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a wooden/steel setup like this, the steel will always win when stressed. &quot;C-clamps&quot; (or G-cramps) are not a typical form/shape for a clamp made of wood, and your testing (when you get to it) may show you why that is. Other clamp forms work better in wood, as a rule, such as spool clamps and double-screw (or handscrew) clamps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will probably need to test the strength of your wood threads yourself, and you may need to adjust various factors (species of wood, orientation, treatments such as epoxy-filling, and probably most easily effective, clamp screw diameter) to find suitable parameters for the clamping you want to do. If you make them in a shape almost entirely seen only in metal (C or G) you may find that the screw threads are not the limiting factor on the thing breaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3334" LastActivityDate="2017-09-01T03:17:32.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6387" CreationDate="2017-09-01T08:18:49.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there any advantage to using a better grade of ACME thread than single start RH 2G? Will 3G or 4G buy me anything? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer the question as asked, no. But you're overthinking this, you don't even need to use Acme threads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plenty of people have made clamps of various types made using standard bolts or threaded rod. It &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; slower and they are not as strong*, but they give a long service life all the same (years or better).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An early reference to DIY clamps using standard threaded rod is this from 1960:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VJEDm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VJEDm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Homemade clamps, diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;strong&gt;Popular Science&lt;/strong&gt;, June 1960&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And some more modern ones:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y6lnR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y6lnR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Homemade clamps, photos&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By all means use Acme thread if you want, it makes for a clamp that works much faster which over time you could find a boon. But if you don't think that'll be a big issue for you and you want to save a bit of money it's fine to use standard threaded rod instead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*If you need a good reason not to stress the strength of the threads for wooden C-clamps is that the force the threading is capable of exerting can easily exceed the strength of the clamp itself. Metal C-clamps can break in use when overtightened, so this is a real concern with the wooden variety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-09-01T08:18:49.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6383" CreationDate="2017-09-01T08:22:56.953" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you must bolt it on&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You could make your life a lot easier and just use through-bolts. No fitting of nuts or anything, just drill clearance holes, thread bolts through and tighten a nut on the projecting end (on top or underneath, it doesn't matter). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's really little more hassle than bolting into threading for periodic use as you only need two bolts (on opposing corners) to hold the press securely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;But easier still, no bolts needed&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You could attach the base of the drill press to a piece of ply or MDF and simply clamp this in its turn to your benchtop. This is the fastest on/off system going for a stationary power tool that sees occasional use. This is what I do for both my drill stand and bench grinder and most of my friends do as well if they don't have space in the workshop for them to be permanently mounted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use almost any clamp for this purpose, most commonly in the past handscrews, F-clamps or C-clamps but even the weaker quick clamp is fine for this and of course it's the fastest to set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because your top is only a single thickness of 3/4&quot; MDF the attached base may help dampen vibration somewhat as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-09-01T08:22:56.953" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2114" CreationDate="2017-09-01T12:33:28.223" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to grfrazees answer I would recommend treating the piece liberally with &lt;strong&gt;ethylene glycol&lt;/strong&gt;, what can be bought for little money in the form of concentrated automotive antifreeze. &lt;em&gt;This will kill any &lt;strong&gt;fungal mycelia&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; in the part of the wood that still appear healthy. Additionally &lt;em&gt;ethylene glycol is hygroscopic and thus mix with the water contained in the wood all the way through&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As ethylene glycol evaporates at a far lower rate than water it will &lt;strong&gt;stabilise the wood&lt;/strong&gt;, similar to polyethylene glycol (what is non-toxic but doesn't kill fungi). If applied in sufficient amounts &lt;em&gt;this can stop the cracking altogether&lt;/em&gt;. It may affect the colour of the wood to a small degree however, what is probably not an issue if the round is kept outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ethylene glycol is moderately toxic to all eukaryotic lifeforms (plants, fungi, animals/humans). However after it is absorbed into the wood you would have to eat the wood itself to induce any of it's toxic effects. It got a bad reputation because of it's sweet taste what makes it likely to be ingested in large quantities by pets and children, resulting in death. For that reason automotive antifreeze is treated with denatonium these days in most countries, what makes this accidental ingestion far less likely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to look &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.simplicityboats.com/chemorot.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;at this article&lt;/a&gt; for further information on the subject, including the use of borates to prevent fungal growths. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4115" LastActivityDate="2017-09-01T12:33:28.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6392" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6393" CreationDate="2017-09-01T19:00:25.743" Score="3" ViewCount="3007" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am starting to get into pyrography and I am completing my first design; I am wondering if I should finish sand before or after I burn in the design? It would seem that after burning in the design an edge is formed that should probably be sanded down but I am afraid that sanding could rub out the design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3728" LastActivityDate="2017-09-01T22:24:55.627" Title="Finish Sanding before or after wood burning in a design" Tags="|sanding|pyrography|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6392" CreationDate="2017-09-01T22:24:55.627" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would finish the sanding as much as possible prior to burning then once you have finally finished carefully hand sand with a finer grit to remove the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2866" LastActivityDate="2017-09-01T22:24:55.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6394" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-01T23:18:16.257" Score="2" ViewCount="1808" Body="&lt;p&gt;I applied poly after staining what I thought was a smooth surface pine board. Rough when first coat dried. Sanded it lightly and is fairly smooth. I want to apply another coat but dust is sticking to some semi rough spots. Afraid to sand further and get into stain. Should I keep going to completely smooth out? How do I remove dust b4 next coat of poly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4117" LastActivityDate="2017-10-02T07:45:16.777" Title="Rough polyurethane job." Tags="|finishing|staining|polyurethane|varnish|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6395" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-02T03:12:46.090" Score="4" ViewCount="10335" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a dining room set consisting of a table and 4 chairs.  I bought them used, the only indication of brand is a &quot;Made in Taiwan&quot; stamp.  I'm under no impression that these are anything fancy, but they look and work great with one exception...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front chair legs are mounted with hanger bolts, and they are continuously coming loose.  (See pictures below.)  I don't think this is a typical use for hanger bolts - from what I've researched, they're usually used vertically inside round legs, which allows them to spin tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I keep tightening these durn bolts, and they just keep backing out.  I believe the wood threads spin out of the leg enough that the lock washer doesn't do anything and then the nut just spins off.  Unfortunately there are no cross-braces, so it doesn't take more than a few days of a 4-year old wiggling before the chair legs are loose again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about replacing the lock washer and nut with lock nuts, or just replace the whole mess with a large wood screw, but not sure if there is a better way to get these chair legs to stay put.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interestingly, the TABLE legs are attached the exact same way, but I haven't had any problems with them - probably because the table doesn't get moved around like the chairs do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions on how to best get these chair legs to stay firmly attached?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chair leg structure:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k12oN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k12oN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hanger bolt:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wfI7r.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wfI7r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front of wood brace: &#xA;(I didn't realize until after uploading this picture that this one is in pretty sorry condition with two of the screws probably not doing much - the rest are in much better shape)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FdwZO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FdwZO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The back legs of the chair (haven't had any problems with this setup):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3KXxc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3KXxc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4118" LastActivityDate="2020-12-12T18:50:19.633" Title="Hanger bolts on chair legs keep coming loose" Tags="|joinery|furniture|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6394" CreationDate="2017-09-02T07:14:52.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some roughness is perfectly normal after the first coat of finish has dried. You don't always have to do it but it is quite common to have to sand lightly (&lt;em&gt;just enough&lt;/em&gt; to remove it, no more). This is generally referred to as 'de-nibbing'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Sanded it lightly and is fairly smooth. I want to apply another coat but dust is sticking to some semi rough spots. Afraid to sand further and get into stain. Should I keep going to completely smooth out? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's hard to say I'm afraid without pics to give guidance, but if it's minor enough you can 'bury' it in the finish by just applying more poly. I would suggest you apply perhaps three more coats, then lightly sand one more time which should skim off the top of any raised texture, then one light application of poly as a final coat to finish off the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How do I remove dust b4 next coat of poly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use a finishing product specifically intended for this purpose called a tack cloth which is exactly what it sounds like, a tacky cloth, but it's really not necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can simply brush it off with any suitable stiff-bristled brush (even an old toothbrush if you have nothing else suitable). The brush should be clean and dry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, if the texture is not sharp enough to snag fabric, a microfibre cloth works great for this. &lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; any microfibre used for this should be new and kept for this purpose in a zip-lock bag or a jar with a lid. It should not have been used with a cleaning or polishing product beforehand, &lt;em&gt;even if laundered afterwards&lt;/em&gt;. This applies most especially to any polishes that contain silicone, something that should come nowhere near a finishing job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See previous Q&amp;amp;A for more if interested, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1080/how-to-remove-dust-after-sanding-before-applying-paint-oil-glue&quot;&gt;How to remove dust after sanding before applying paint/oil/glue?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your Comment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;grey tint after sanding&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's normal for finish to look slightly grey (or clouded, or milky) after sanding because you've scuffed the surface and the scuffing scatters light. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wet a finger with the solvent for the varnish and just wipe a spot this greyness should completely disappear until the liquid evaporates. The next coat of finish will do the same thing but permanently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-09-02T07:14:52.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6395" CreationDate="2017-09-02T07:26:29.907" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Changing out the washers for fresh ones might do what you need here, these loose oomph after a while because they get compressed and apparently fresh ones can make all the difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I think you answered your own Question here — swap out the nuts for locknuts. Note these are likely to be metric threads (M8 etc.) in case you live somewhere that commonly uses Imperial threading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively you could use thread locker on the existing nuts. If you don't have a commercial thread-locking liquid nail polish is a decent enough alternative. Colour doesn't matter :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-09-02T07:26:29.907" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6379" CreationDate="2017-09-02T21:09:01.620" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an addition to the accepted answer, the instructions in both my routers mentioned that the bit should be placed 1/16&quot; off the base of the collet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2838" LastActivityDate="2017-09-02T21:09:01.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6400" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-03T01:26:03.263" Score="1" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had to surface some boards, and Woodworld is having classes this week so they can't get to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seemed like a good opportunity to use some parts I had from a CNC build a few years ago, so I made an incredibly over-engineered router sled:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xQ0Zb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xQ0Zb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which works amazingly well, except for when the microadjustment on the (Ridgid) palm router randomly drifts due to the vibration in the whole assembly when the router is running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can put some tape over the dial to (maybe) keep it from moving, but is there a better approach I'm missing here? Other than get a better router? (I have a PC 2 1/2 HP, but it seemed a little heavy for this, and I'd rather not have it semi-permanently anchored to the assembly.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3096" LastActivityDate="2017-09-03T01:26:03.263" Title="Ridgid palm router microadjustment drift" Tags="|router|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6401" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6408" CreationDate="2017-09-03T03:05:07.830" Score="5" ViewCount="246" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often make fences on my work surface by clamping down levels and squareslike so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DLYyi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DLYyi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Fench from squares&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only ever use my  speed square to overlap another square because that is thick and its accuracy is rough enough that I'm not worried about it bending.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is am I risking damaging the accuracy of my squares and levels by clamping down the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Triangule shaped speed squares&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Metal Carpenters squares&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aluminum I-beam styly levels.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combination squares&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Machinist squares&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not concened about scratching the surfaces with the clamps, just making them less true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4110" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2017-09-08T12:22:30.083" LastActivityDate="2017-09-08T12:22:30.083" Title="Is it ok to clamp down squares and i-beam style levels?" Tags="|tool-maintenance|measurement|clamps|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6402" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-03T04:02:58.900" Score="1" ViewCount="527" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's my issue, I have windows and door casing that appears to be 1x6 that was custom routed,  my down stairs is almost identical but has a backband.  My current baseboard trim I've come to find has been screwed in by the previous owner and I can't remove it easily to cut it to accommodate backband.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bFKGc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;currently installed trim&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the trim is cut nearly identically, this below picture is the style I'm going for&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a3zGD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/varca.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally I don't want to add anymore width, so I was thinking of adding some shoetrim or stop trim around the outside edge to get the same look.  I feel like it's wrong to do this, so before i start nailing away with some shoe trim i want to hear some ideas.  The only concern i can think of would be the look of the trim from a side profile. Who knows, maybe I'm being a little OCD.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4122" LastEditorUserId="4122" LastEditDate="2017-09-03T04:10:15.310" LastActivityDate="2017-09-03T04:10:15.310" Title="Colonial style casing / backband and alternatives" Tags="|trim|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6403" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-03T07:39:52.517" Score="5" ViewCount="577" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using a Festool router with a 1-1/2 Amana straight bit to create breadboard tenons on a table top. This appears to be generating a lot of static electricity -- evidenced by the jolts I receive if my fingers get too close to the metal parts of the body.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts on how to combat this? Aside from wrapping copper wire around the router and connecting it to an electrical ground?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3542" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-07-13T07:58:33.377" LastActivityDate="2019-12-20T17:03:08.947" Title="Mitigating static shocks from a Festool router" Tags="|safety|router|dust-collection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6404" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-03T08:38:19.087" Score="0" ViewCount="112" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SECcX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SECcX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cane&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what type of wood this is, only that a Star Jasmine is responsible for killing the tree this branch came from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I can prepare this without you needing to know the wood type, what sorts of things do I need to coat it with for it to be completely weatherproof and possibly something to make it more durable? When this is completed, I was hoping it would last for a long time if not forever. Intended as a walking cane, it will be shortened, handle added and foot installed at the bottom. &lt;strong&gt;I'm assuming it will be used daily as a cane to get around with&lt;/strong&gt;. So any suggestion on what to use is very helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4123" LastEditorUserId="4123" LastEditDate="2017-09-03T09:08:15.117" LastActivityDate="2017-10-08T13:15:53.103" Title="What kind of finish does this need to be weatherproof/durable?" Tags="|finishing|joinery|wood|furniture|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6405" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-03T09:37:22.410" Score="0" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r11rl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r11rl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What were the tools used to achieve what was done here? Namely the stripping off of all the bark that used to be over the white-ish parts. Note that the top portion is smooth and sort of transitions into a gradient that seems like it was carved by hand? I also would like to know how the bark was stripped away from the scarred wood so cleanly, I would assume this was not done by hand but I'm no good at this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DME4q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DME4q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4123" LastEditorUserId="4123" LastEditDate="2017-09-04T11:07:05.900" LastActivityDate="2017-09-04T11:59:54.093" Title="The Tools used on this cane?" Tags="|tool-selection|tool-identification|wood-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6406" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-03T11:29:20.923" Score="2" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am replacing a small section of oak flooring (I believe it's European oak) and am at the stage of colour matching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found a dye which, after three applications, gives the correct colour. However, in the existing flooring, the grain doesn't stand out very much - the colour is quite uniform. Whereas when I dye the new wood the grain is much more accentuated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Question: is there a way to lessen the darkening of the grain?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it work for me to apply a grain filler first? Or a sand sealer? Ideally I don't wish to alter the way the wood feels to the touch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4124" LastActivityDate="2017-09-03T11:29:20.923" Title="Uniform oak dying: attenuate the grain" Tags="|staining|coloring|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6405" CreationDate="2017-09-03T19:14:11.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sl2YO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sl2YO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As shown on the picture: the flats in the lower area look like what you get when you whittle with (probably) a knife. I would imagine the whole thing was shaped with a knife before the smoother top area was hand-sanded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bark was removed when the wood was green the maker probably just scraped it off with the backside of a knife. I think this is most likely due the the ragged transition between the bark and the wood. Or it could have been peeled/cut off when the wood was dry. It's not hard to do since the bark is much softer than the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be surprised if any power tools were used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: For the transitions between wood and bark I would score a line with a knife, cutting down to the wood. Then I'd scrape/cut/peel back the bark away from the cut line. Again, this is not hard because the bark is so much softer than the wood. It also looks like the maker followed lines and ridges already in the bark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3343" LastEditorUserId="3343" LastEditDate="2017-09-04T11:59:54.093" LastActivityDate="2017-09-04T11:59:54.093" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6401" CreationDate="2017-09-04T07:22:55.390" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's certainly possible to damage squares and/or levels by clamping. So if you're looking for a yes or no answer, it would have to be yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I can think of plenty of situations where I would clamp either of these and do so in a way that does not degrade their accuracy. I would say the risks are these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clamping directly (without a pad of some sort) risks scratching, denting (much worse) or otherwise deforming the surface. This sort of damage can change the angle of a carpenters square and similar thin metal squares. It also could damage the scale causing you to mis-read it. I would follow Graphus's advice above and always either use a pad or use clamps with padded (e.g. rubber) jaws.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the surface you're clamping to isn't straight, you can bend a square and definitely an aluminum level. This can also happen by clamping over an edge (like the pad is half on and half off the board or bench. I would avoid clamping an aluminum level to anything that isn't perfectly straight and liable to stay that way. Even then I would clamp it lightly; enough to keep it from moving but no tighter. Definitely use pads here or rubber jaws.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I would be very leery of clamping any of &lt;em&gt;my&lt;/em&gt; machinist squares, except to something that was known flat and smooth to within .001&quot;, like a 1-2-3 block. A small divot would be all it took to bend a rigid blade like that. Also be careful there is nothing under it like chips; wipe both sides with your hand immediately before clamping. Don't even think of skipping use of a brass or aluminum pad under the clamp (with my machinist squares anyway :).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Same goes for a combination square if it's a good one (PEC, Starrett). If it's a Johnson from Home Depot I wouldn't be so careful :)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, my advice is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Know the risks&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clamp these when it speeds your work, taking care to avoid damage.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2017-09-04T07:22:55.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6409" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6433" CreationDate="2017-09-04T16:19:18.887" Score="3" ViewCount="4222" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have hickory cabinets that I bought with the intent of staining a moderately dark reddish brown to go with adjacent woodwork, but found that the wood isn't accepting the (regular oil-based) stain except in the softest parts of the grain; it just all wipes off leaving minimal color. Sanding a test surface with 80 grit (orbital sander) helped a little bit but not enough to get a result I like. Are there techniques to open the grain (maybe water?) and get it to accept the stain better? Or do I need to switch to dyes or something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4130" LastActivityDate="2017-09-08T18:11:29.887" Title="How to stain hickory" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6409" CreationDate="2017-09-04T17:08:17.847" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not ideal but this is the type of situation that might call for a coloured finish. The poorly-named &quot;gel stain&quot; is one of those*. I'm not a fan of them myself, and many finishers are against coloured overcoats in principle (when the task is to make the wood significantly darker), but &quot;gel stain&quot; is undoubtedly a good product to fall back on if you're trying to colour wood that is accepting real stain or dye unevenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do be aware though that if you wear through, scratch or scrape off any finish like this it's very obvious because the damage reveals the paler wood underneath (and doing touchups is tricky).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Or do I need to switch to dyes or something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would normally say they're well worth trying because colouring the wood and then applying a topcoat/final finish should always be considered preferable to using a coloured finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, because you're doing cabinets you bought and not working on something you made yourself a dye may not be the best call here because you won't have any scraps of the same wood to test finishing options on. If you try dyeing and it doesn't work right it takes a lot of sanding to get back to bare wood because they penetrate wood much better than oil stain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Despite being called a stain by the makers it's basically coloured oil-vased varnish (usually polyurethane) thickened to a soft-gel consistency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-09-04T17:08:17.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6411" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-05T03:24:40.230" Score="3" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;We built a deck last summer and now we are ready to stain. The only issue is we left a rug on it all year and now we have a rectangle that is a different color because it held moisture. Should we stain and it eventually fade or should we wait. Will it eventually fade with a stain? Please advise&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4133" LastActivityDate="2019-05-12T02:50:09.880" Title="Moisture spot on deck" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6395" CreationDate="2017-09-05T10:20:32.840" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would replace this corner block with a new one made from knot-free wood of a strong species.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KA7Bt.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KA7Bt.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the wood has broken away around the lower screws it is no longer able to keep the joint rigid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bolts are long enough that you could make a larger (thicker) corner block that would be stronger and less prone to having the ends torn off around the screws. In the existing block those screws seem too near the edge/end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also consider replacing the screws with glued dowels. An arrangement that failed before may fail again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="158" LastActivityDate="2017-09-05T10:20:32.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6413" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-05T15:27:04.587" Score="1" ViewCount="306" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to compare some different types of clamps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some of these: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.screwfix.com/p/bessey-gh30-all-steel-lever-clamp-300mm/3156K?kpid=3156K&amp;amp;gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_bfIiqyO1gIVqQrTCh3c-gBOEAQYAiABEgLCAfD_BwE&amp;amp;gclsrc=aw.ds&amp;amp;dclid=CIHP5YysjtYCFauGUQodCB8AIA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.screwfix.com/p/bessey-gh30-all-steel-lever-clamp-300mm/3156K?kpid=3156K&amp;amp;gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_bfIiqyO1gIVqQrTCh3c-gBOEAQYAiABEgLCAfD_BwE&amp;amp;gclsrc=aw.ds&amp;amp;dclid=CIHP5YysjtYCFauGUQodCB8AIA&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and some of these: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p21813?mkwid=skw2cS478_dc&amp;amp;pcrid=142002554548&amp;amp;pkw=&amp;amp;pmt=&amp;amp;product=21813&amp;amp;gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlKXqkq2O1gIVL5PtCh2r&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p21813?mkwid=skw2cS478_dc&amp;amp;pcrid=142002554548&amp;amp;pkw=&amp;amp;pmt=&amp;amp;product=21813&amp;amp;gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlKXqkq2O1gIVL5PtCh2r&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in my workshop and I'd like to know which are best to use when requiring the highest possible clamping pressure. The site linked above shows the lever-arm clamps as having 8500N of clamping force but I can't find a value for a screw-operated sash clamp as shown in the second link. My gut says the screw clamp will have a higher strength but is there a general value for this type of clamp or can I calculate it somehow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2017-09-05T15:27:04.587" Title="What is the clamping force of a &quot;T-bar&quot; sash clamp (or how can I work it out)?" Tags="|tool-selection|clamps|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6414" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6415" CreationDate="2017-09-05T19:53:58.487" Score="4" ViewCount="308" Body="&lt;p&gt;The college provides a desk for my kid but it does not have a bookshelf on top; single student desk with drawers below. I would like to build something nice, sturdy, functional and stable for additional shelf space on/above the desk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot damage anything in the room. Can't glue, screw or nail into the desk or wall or ceiling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some design options for keeping the space relatively open for studying but providing maximum amount of good shelf space? I don't want it falling accidentally but don't know how to secure it  to a surface&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NKOxv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4139" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2017-09-06T16:23:39.827" LastActivityDate="2017-09-06T16:23:39.827" Title="How to add bookshelf to a desk without doing any permanent damage?" Tags="|design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6414" CreationDate="2017-09-05T20:49:37.630" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd be thinking clamping, in particular at the back. The wall will keep it from tipping backward, you only need to take care of preventing tipping forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the picture, it looks like there is a small overhang of the desk top on the sides. A small block on each side with a &quot;lip&quot; as deep as the overhang could serve. This could be screwed to the sides of the shelf unit if the unit was exactly the same width at the table top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A unit with no shelf at the bottom would be nice because it would allow the desk surface to be unobstructed. You could put some strip lighting (like under-cabinet kitchen counter lighting) under the first shelf, which would provide good lighting without consuming desk surface. Depending on the height, you might need to place a &quot;shade&quot; strip in front of the lighting to prevent glare into the eyes of someone seated at the desk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expect you want the first shelf high enough to clear an open laptop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sturdy bent sheet metal might also serve as a clamp, and would be low-profile. All the screw holes would be in the shelving unit. Some rubber padding would prevent marring the underside of the desk top, perhaps something like an old inner-tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2017-09-05T20:49:37.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6416" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6418" CreationDate="2017-09-06T15:32:59.770" Score="1" ViewCount="1541" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm staining a butcher block countertop with pure tung oil diluted with citrus solvent after progressively sanding with 60 &amp;amp; 120 grit sandpaper.  Is wood conditioner also needed before applying the first coat of diluted dung oil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4142" LastActivityDate="2019-01-17T16:44:12.283" Title="Wood Conditioner needed with Citrus Solvent / Tung Oil?" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6417" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-06T18:24:04.047" Score="1" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a novice in woodworking,  I am looking for some advice concerning a project I have in mind. I would like to create something similar to a chunky puzzle, something that looks like this, with much simpler shapes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mspTL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mspTL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chunky puzzle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The holes would be rectangles, and disposed more regularly on the board. In these holes, I'd be able to fit several pieces that would stick out of the board, for easier manipulation. Finally, I'd paint on the board and on the pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way I think of doing this so far is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Board: take two rectangular, relatively thin pieces of wood of the same size, pierce one with the holes where I want them, and then to glue these two boards together to have the intended effect. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Small pieces: make them out of a wood that's thicker than the single board (and maybe of a similar thickness of the final board made of the two boards I glued), and slightly smaller than the holes I pierced in the board.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Painting: well, I guess I'll buy paint that can go on wood, so I can paint decorations, people or other animals on the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main question is: &lt;strong&gt;what type of wood&lt;/strong&gt; would you recommend for such a project? (knowing that it has to be painted.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for your help! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4144" LastEditorUserId="4144" LastEditDate="2017-09-06T21:26:12.660" LastActivityDate="2017-09-21T12:00:49.523" Title="Type of wood for chunky puzzle" Tags="|paint|toy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6416" CreationDate="2017-09-06T19:18:58.273" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're not staining so no, &quot;wood conditioner&quot; (terrible name for the product!) is not needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purpose of &quot;conditioners&quot; is to partially seal the surface of woods that are prone to blotching, which is taking stain very unevenly. Pine is possibly the worst offender for this but a few other similar softwoods are prone to it to and it's not confined to softwoods, cherry is a notable example of a blotch-prone hardwood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You didn't ask about these two things but I think I should cover them&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sanding to 120&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Generally when you oil wood you want to be particularly careful about how well the surface is prepped and as part of this you usually sand to a higher grit than you would if you were using a film-building finish such as shellac or varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's rare anyway to sand only to 120 grit. 150 is about the lowest grit usually used for finish sanding, with 180-220 probably being the commonest final grits used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When oiling it's not uncommon to go to 320 grit or finer and in fact you can sand very finely indeed without issue because there are no adhesion problems with an oil like there can be with a film finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thinning oil for application&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You don't need to thin oils used in finishing. And in fact I would recommend specifically that you don't for a couple of reasons. Primarily it's because thinning really has zero benefit. Yes a great many people do it and convince themselves it helps with penetration but anyone can do some side-by-side comparison tests for themselves and confirm it makes absolutely no difference at the end of the day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you oil wood the idea is to get as much oil as possible into the wood fibres and diluting the oil just ensures that each application puts on less oil. So in essence thinning oils merely lengthens the finishing process.... which is already tediously long-winded when you're oiling :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-09-06T19:18:58.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6419" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-06T20:18:06.190" Score="1" ViewCount="551" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the past I've seen many beautiful pieces making use of a &quot;natural edge&quot;, such as this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.houzz.com/photos/44117627/Live-Edge-Conference-Table-rustic-dining-tables&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.houzz.com/photos/44117627/Live-Edge-Conference-Table-rustic-dining-tables&lt;/a&gt;.  Other examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xBewu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xBewu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2QUtH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2QUtH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The term natural edge seems to be applied to the very bumpy organic shape of the edge, which is different from live edge which refers to the slab going up to the bark or cambium layer.  I always assumed these went together, but now that I'm looking to give something like this a try and have been looking at live edge wood slabs to purchase, I've noticed that the edge seems relatively flat under the bark; or at least it doesn't have nearly as much variation as show in the photos.  Especially once the bark is peeled off with a draw knife.  Though I've only really looked at a few species of local trees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there term live edge actually referencing a natural feature that some woods have?  Or is it a term that actually refers to an artificially chiseled edge made to look organic?  How does one create a table with a natural edge like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2017-11-07T00:59:22.800" Title="Is a natural edge actually natural, or is it a man-made feature?" Tags="|wood|natural-wood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6420" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6424" CreationDate="2017-09-06T20:23:21.810" Score="1" ViewCount="108" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was building my first piece of furniture I remember reading a SO answer or forum post where someone made a special note of how sanding has some effect on opening up the grain, and either should or should not (I can't remember which) be done within an hour or two of spraying lacquer.  At the time I made no special note of it because they said it as though it was industry standard knowledge that everyone would be talking about in other articles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'm trying to remember what the advice was and understand it for use in my projects, but Google is turning up no results for timing sanding in relation to finishing.  Is there actually any difference between sanding 15 minutes before spraying lacquer and sanding several days before?  Assume that in either case the surface is properly cleaned just before spraying begins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2017-09-07T17:56:17.260" Title="Does it matter when you sand in relation to applying a finish?" Tags="|finishing|sanding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6420" CreationDate="2017-09-06T21:38:03.417" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never heard of anything regarding finishing soon after sanding.  Leaving wood set for a long time might cause some oxidation that could affect the color. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard of gluing issues on very oily woods (teak) if they are not wiped down right before applying the glue, so that may where the idea comes from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2017-09-06T21:38:03.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6419" CreationDate="2017-09-06T21:42:05.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Live edge and natural edge are used interchangeably.  Some people may try to artificially create such an edge, or it may just be the different processes or woods used to achieve the live edge that you are seeing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2017-09-06T21:42:05.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6420" CreationDate="2017-09-07T09:16:53.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does it matter when you sand in relation to applying a finish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, sometimes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there actually any difference between sanding 15 minutes before spraying lacquer and sanding several days before? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As always there are variables but as a general thing consider it best practice to sand (or otherwise work the surface of the wood, e.g. by plane or scraper) just prior to finish application to help ensure best results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; to say if you apply finish to a surface that was sanded four weeks ago you will have a problem, it depends on the species of wood, the storage conditions (dust, cycles of change in RH) and above all the type of finish being used. When using a waterbased finish (any type) it is highly advised to apply it to a freshly-worked surface for exactly the same reason &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4151/what-do-i-need-to-do-to-prepare-wood-for-gluing/4159#4159&quot;&gt;it's important when using glue&lt;/a&gt; — older wood surfaces aren't properly wetted by water-based products, while with shellac or oil-based varnish for example their solvents will tend to cut through the surface contamination. But it's still advisable to freshly work show surfaces just prior to finishing with shellac or varnish, especially critical areas like a tabletop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2017-09-07T17:56:17.260" LastActivityDate="2017-09-07T17:56:17.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6425" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-07T10:03:43.477" Score="1" ViewCount="450" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a shoe bench in a similar style to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hermanmiller.com/products/seating/bench-seating/nelson-platform-bench.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nelson Platform Bench&lt;/a&gt;. Not that there aren't other differences in my design but the &quot;real thing&quot; has mitre-joined legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went with a butt joint, all based around a 5° cut. It was easy to cut, and the main legs can transfer most of the load directly to the ground without forcing outward. More than anything this is a shoe bench, and a pretty low one at that. It's not actually going to get sat on much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/48FnR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/48FnR.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But having reached the assembly table, I'm now having doubts about how to assemble and affix and even possibly reinforce this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first thought was pocket screws from underneath the two horizontals, out into the legs. They won't be visible but the complicate attaching to the benchtop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could cut longer trusses (the horizontal bits; not sure what to call them) and make a mortice-tenon but that drastically complicates things, especially with the 5° angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dowel/floating-tenon would work but again, it's more complicated than a pocket and I don't believe the a dowel here would see any of the sheering forces they're designed to resist. 90% of the force on this bench goes directly through the vertical legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So... Glue and pocket screws?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The timber is red grandis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3990" LastActivityDate="2017-09-07T18:22:39.400" Title="How should I affix and refinforce these butt joints?" Tags="|joinery|butt-joint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6425" CreationDate="2017-09-07T13:19:32.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although mortise and tenons would be better for strength, I would say glue and pocket screws would be OK.  As you say, most of the load is vertical (I just did the trig, it's actually 99.6% of the load is vertical (cos(5deg)). Keep in mind that glue on end grain does not produce a very strong joint.   So you definitely want some good pocket screws to help out with that joint.  Screwing into end grain is also not very strong so if you can orient your pocket screws to go across grain, and not into end grain, that would be best.  In pick below the red lines represent your pocket screws.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8dB5V.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8dB5V.png&quot; alt=&quot;Red lines represent pocket screws&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4147" LastActivityDate="2017-09-07T13:19:32.883" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6428" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-07T16:37:47.763" Score="2" ViewCount="1936" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 5/4&quot; x 8&quot; x 6' plank of cherry with a twist on one end. The twist is only about 18&quot; long. When you lay it on a flat surface the corner was raised about 1/4&quot;. I tried soaking the board in my hot tube for about 3 hours, (about 130F water). Then I wrapped it in an old blanked, laid it on the garage floor, put a piece of plywood on top of it, and drove over it with the car. I left it there overnight (about 10 hours). This morning I removed the car, unwrapped it, and it's still twisted exactly the same! My next thought is I need hotter water, so I have to come up with a container to soak at least 18&quot; of the board in 212F water, and then try the car again. Any thoughts? Do I need to soak it for a longer time? Or let dry with the car on it for longer? It was still slightly wet when I removed the car this morning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4147" LastActivityDate="2017-09-07T18:37:57.503" Title="Remove twist from plank without reducing thickness" Tags="|warp|steam-bending|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6429" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-07T17:09:52.123" Score="1" ViewCount="289" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a vase on the lathe, and I also want it to hold water. I don;t know what finish to use because I don't know what would last. I know water on bare wood like that would cause warping or mold, something. What can I do to 'water-proof' a wood vase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I do not have a specific wood that I am thinking of using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="2073" LastEditDate="2017-09-07T17:16:30.547" LastActivityDate="2017-09-07T17:16:30.547" Title="Making a wood vase hold water" Tags="|lathe|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2017-09-07T18:44:10.650" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6425" CreationDate="2017-09-07T18:22:39.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's likely you can dispense with any reinforcement here and achieve strong enough joints. It's even possible that if this piece were subject to much greater stress you could use glue only. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in one or more previous Answers, the known weakness of end-grain glue joints primarily refers to when end grain meets end grain, as in the classic mitre joint. It's not the same when you glue end grain to long grain and tests have shown that done properly end grain | long grain can be strong enough when broken apart to rip fibres from the long-grain surface, indicating that the joint is stronger than the wood which is the gold standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I don't see why you shouldn't reinforce it to be on the safe side. It's far better to add a little extra security (especially if it takes just a few minutes to achieve it) than to worry if you did that one glue joint as well as you could have......&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So... Glue and pocket screws?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why not? That's a perfectly good way to go here and simpler than many alternatives, as well as probably being the fastest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I could cut longer trusses (the horizontal bits; not sure what to call them) and make a mortice-tenon but that drastically complicates things, especially with the 5° angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think it's at all necessary to go with mortices and tenons here (or any equivalent/pseudo-equivalent) but, &quot;drastically complicates things&quot; overstates the added difficulty here. It's only very slightly different to normal M&amp;amp;Ts and although you would have to pay close attention during the initial marking out the actual cutting of the joints would be almost the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-09-07T18:22:39.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6428" CreationDate="2017-09-07T18:37:57.503" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a bunch of research but I can't say that you can. Usually with a twisted board you can only joint it flat or cut out what would be useful. I found a question very related to what you asked. The link is below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/319/how-to-straighten-a-warped-board&quot;&gt;How to straighten a warped board&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2017-09-07T18:37:57.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6404" CreationDate="2017-09-08T12:43:05.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's a really cool find and looks like it will make an excellent walking stick/cane!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood generally lasts a really long time, especially when not laying on the dirt and continually exposed to the elements. Does it need to be coated? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would just finish (sand/scrape) the hand-hold area well enough to avoid splinters. It &lt;s&gt;might&lt;/s&gt; will wear and darken from skin oil/dirty hands, but that could be considered &quot;character&quot; that's added over the years. Especially after the user has passed - it becomes a family heirloom &lt;em&gt;because&lt;/em&gt; of the wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can see putting a metal cap on the base to protect it from splintering/crushing from the repeated banging into the ground with each step, especially if used on pavement. A small metal cup hand hammered to fit might work. My FIL would probably drill a hole in the end and run a small lag bolt in and use that. (Kinda kills the heirloom quality workmanship, to be fair.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe a rubber tip would be a better bet so it's not so noisy on pavement. A screw-in rubber foot might work well. I'd look for something that has a fairly easily replaceable rubber piece that goes into a fixed fitting. Drill a hole, squeeze in some epoxy, screw in the fitting. Buy a stock of replacement rubber tips now (products do go out of production), and present the finished work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2017-09-08T12:43:05.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6409" CreationDate="2017-09-08T18:11:29.887" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had really good results now with a mix of advice from (now-deleted?) comments and my initial ideas. I sanded the easily sandable surfaces with detail and orbital sander, then wiped the wood down with a cloth soaked in hot water, leaving the wood nice and wet. After it fully dried, I applied the stain as a thick coat, rather than just wiping in what would would absorb immediately, and waited 30-45 minutes before wiping the excess off, but I could already see that it was being absorbed much better than before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4130" LastActivityDate="2017-09-08T18:11:29.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26" CreationDate="2017-09-08T23:20:46.300" Score="0" Body="&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently had the problem of the blade sipping off and taking the tire with it' Finally found the set screw on the drive wheel loose and the wheels out of alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4151" LastActivityDate="2017-09-08T23:20:46.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6435" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-09T20:31:16.903" Score="1" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1-1/4 hp router that only has a 1/4&quot; collet. Assuming I want to hog the deepest widest dado possible in one cut, what characteristics do I want? Put aside buy a bigger router arguments for this question. Assume relatively soft material like pine, cedar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is carbide going to perform better than HSS?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will a spiral bit perform better than a flat bit?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will an up cut spiral bit perform better than a downward or combination bit?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will a 3 flute straight bit perform better than a 2 flute bit?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4110" LastActivityDate="2017-09-09T20:31:16.903" Title="Most efficient bit characteristics for 1-1/4hp router." Tags="|router-bit|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6436" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-10T12:53:46.677" Score="1" ViewCount="541" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand this is partially design, however I think it's part of the art of fine trim carpenters.  This is my second floor sitting room which has routed 1x8s as baseboard and 1x6 with the same round over bit as the window casings.  Attached is a photo &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Aobmk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Aobmk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sitting room&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inside my master bedroom, lower ceilings the previous owner used 1x6 baseboards and 1x4 casings with a smaller profile roman ogee bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hQGwT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hQGwT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;roman ogee window&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leads me to my question having the deep round over bit being used in my main room and transitioning to using a roman ogee bit in the bedrooms with 1x4 is this an ok transition to make.  I have another bedroom on the same floor when I purchased had no trim. As seen here. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mRucS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mRucS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bedroom without trim&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were making new trim for your bedrooms would you worry about matching the main adjoining room?  And If matching is not critical is a roman ogee profile in a room next to a really wide round over acceptable.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding one photo for the view between rooms. The first window seen is the 1x4 roman and the other windows are the round over style.  As you may see using a larger 1x6 casing around the door maybe interesting &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O0YJV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O0YJV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My mockup of casing baseboard and backband &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4jCY3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4jCY3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for all of your help &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4122" LastEditorUserId="4122" LastEditDate="2017-09-10T12:59:56.017" LastActivityDate="2017-09-10T12:59:56.017" Title="Trim / Casing and Baseboard choices between rooms" Tags="|finishing|router|design|trim|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6437" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-11T00:46:57.363" Score="1" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an antique wooden box which has a nasty crack in it. There is a very dark brown material that seems to form the background of the image and which I would need to fill the crack (I think). Here is a picture of the whole box (perhaps this helps date the period or technique used) and a zoomed in view of one of the cracks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/njjwP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/njjwP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2xEqs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2xEqs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what kind of material this might be - and what I could use as a good substitute (assuming that the &quot;old&quot; material might be hard to get hold of)?  This box has no commercial value (AFAIK) but lots of sentimental value - so I would like to do this right if possible (I experimented a bit with epoxy and tinting powder and so far the results are not even close).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastEditorUserId="831" LastEditDate="2017-09-11T11:19:57.657" LastActivityDate="2017-09-11T11:19:57.657" Title="How could I repair this crack?" Tags="|wood-repair|inlay|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6438" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-11T02:02:07.780" Score="1" ViewCount="567" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to match the butt style casing installation of my old home.  Standard 45 mitered casing and planning the backside has worked for me in newer homes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First floor example with backband &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dyLAu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dyLAu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;first floor example with backband&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The adjoining room installation method I want to copy. I have freshly routed 1x4 that matches this style. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s8NLp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s8NLp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;the install method I&amp;#39;m wanting to duplicate &quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never seen trim installed like this, but it intrigues me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully you can provide me some insight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I edited my original question as I originally did not know the name of this cut.  So my answer would be how to correctly measure and cut jack miters for window and door casing.  Specifically how to cut a 45 degree angle through just the decorative part   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4122" LastEditorUserId="4122" LastEditDate="2017-09-14T12:38:22.357" LastActivityDate="2017-09-14T12:38:22.357" Title="Installing casing using jack miters" Tags="|finishing|trim|butt-joint|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6439" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-11T02:49:39.440" Score="4" ViewCount="1519" Body="&lt;p&gt;I still don't understand about countersinking screws. I have been in lowes and home depot and have never seen packages that say countersinking screws. I still don't know the purpose of countersinking screws. I only know I drill a pilot hole for the screws insert the screws by hand a little bit then finish drilling the screws down with a power drill??? I am a novice not a woodworker, little jobs around house, hanging shelves, hinges, pictures,mirrors, etc. thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4156" LastActivityDate="2021-12-22T18:32:53.697" Title="countersinking screws" Tags="|drilling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6439" CreationDate="2017-09-11T04:14:07.307" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;em&gt;countersink&lt;/em&gt; is a feature of a &lt;em&gt;hole&lt;/em&gt;. The corresponding feature of a screw is a taper under the head. This taper appears on &lt;em&gt;flat head&lt;/em&gt; and also &lt;em&gt;oval head&lt;/em&gt; screws. So in Lowe's or Home Depot you would see packages of &lt;em&gt;flat head screws&lt;/em&gt; most commonly (where countersinking is concerned).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary purpose of a countersunk screw is achieving a flush surface; the head of the screw does not protrude above the work. On a deck, say, this is important because screw heads would be a tripping hazard, among other things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Properly installing a flat head screw involves three operations (although they can be combined with a specialty drill bit):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill the &lt;em&gt;pilot&lt;/em&gt; hole, the same or slightly smaller than the &lt;em&gt;root&lt;/em&gt; diameter of the screw (the root is the solid shaft bit under the threads, roughly speaking). The pilot hole extends as far as the screw will into the back-most material.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill the &lt;em&gt;clearance&lt;/em&gt; hole through the front-most piece only. It should be as big as the full diameter of the screw (measured across the threads, but not the head). The thread should not bite into the clearance hole.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Form a countersink as deep as the screw head. This can be done with a &quot;countersink bit&quot; which may just be called a &quot;countersink&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The screw is then pushed &lt;em&gt;through&lt;/em&gt; the clearance hole, started and screwed into the pilot hole, and cinched up tight such that its head fits into the countersink tapered hole and sits flush with the top of the work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2017-09-11T04:14:07.307" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6439" CreationDate="2017-09-11T16:59:19.997" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;GRK makes what they call a &quot;self-countersinking&quot; screw.  Above the screw threads there are some &quot;cutters&quot; that widen the hole and allow for the screw to be set flush with the surface without having to use a countersink drill bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T9fk9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T9fk9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From GRK's web site:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;GRK's R4™ self-countersinking screw has a patented underhead with&#xA;  saw-blade like cutting teeth and six self-contained cutting pockets.&#xA;  Together they act similar to a circular saw-blade, transporting the&#xA;  drill dust away from the edge of the screw hole while cutting a&#xA;  perfectly clean hole into even the most brittle materials without&#xA;  cracking any surface treatment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This design enhances the R4's versatility by allowing the fastener to&#xA;  countersink into even the hardest woods. The head of the screw closes&#xA;  the hole off with precision leaving no damaged fibers around the head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;R4™ screws 2&quot; and longer have a four threaded CEE Thread. This&#xA;  enlarges the screw hole for the non-threaded portion of the fastener,&#xA;  allowing the wood to settle easily. It increases the screw's drawing&#xA;  strength and reduces the friction on the screw shank that lowers the&#xA;  driving torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2017-09-11T16:59:19.997" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1500" CreationDate="2017-09-11T23:13:11.733" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used this method to make a badly twisted board useable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rip the board into about three or four narrow pieces. Each piece will carry only a small part of the twist.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Joint and plane each piece&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Joint the rip cuts so they come square to their new faces.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Glue up, keeping the pieces in their original order. With luck, the grain will match nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4157" LastActivityDate="2017-09-11T23:13:11.733" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6443" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-12T03:33:54.467" Score="4" ViewCount="279" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just recently built a new shop. I had it wired for 110V and 220V. I have been thinking of upgrading to a better table saw and noticed a few that say they are 230V or 240V, does that mean I need to change my 220V? or will it still work on my 220V ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4160" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2017-09-12T09:51:53.663" LastActivityDate="2017-09-12T09:51:53.663" Title="Wired my shop to 220v, can I buy table saws rated for 230-240v?" Tags="|table-saw|electrical-requirements|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6443" CreationDate="2017-09-12T05:13:26.493" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, the designation &lt;em&gt;220 VAC&lt;/em&gt; (volts alternating current) is a &lt;em&gt;nominal&lt;/em&gt; value. The actual value is in a range, depending on your utility, your distance from the transformer that serves your house, and other factors including time of day and nearby loads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The short story is that your nominally 220 VAC outlets will work just fine with a motor rated for 240 VAC. If you check the actual voltage at your outlets, there's a very good chance you'll find them to provide between 230 and 250 VAC anyway (observe all necessary precautions for measuring line voltage and don't attempt it if you're not confident with that or your measuring equipment).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, I don't expect you have a choice. 220 and 240 wiring is not different; it's just a case of what you get where you are located.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; markedly different though is 240 VAC 3-phase (as opposed to single phase, which is almost certainly what you have). Industrial motors use 3-phase power because it's more efficient and provides smoother power. 3-phase is not commonly available in residential areas. The wiring for that &lt;em&gt;would&lt;/em&gt; be different, but the common use of varying nominal terms like 220 and 240 would also apply there; different working names for the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 3-phase motor will not work with single-phase power (although it's a little more complicated than just &quot;doesn't work&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2017-09-12T05:13:26.493" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6445" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6447" CreationDate="2017-09-12T11:53:36.053" Score="3" ViewCount="325" Body="&lt;p&gt;The measurements on a try square start at the far end of the blade. Why? Wouldn't it be better to have two measurements starting at the 90 degree angles like a framing square?&#xA;Or was a try square never intended for measuring, just trying? The lip on the stock is so handy though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4162" LastActivityDate="2017-09-12T16:28:31.340" Title="Measurements on a Try Square" Tags="|hand-tools|tool-selection|measurement|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6446" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6463" CreationDate="2017-09-12T11:56:58.183" Score="0" ViewCount="136" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a candle holder out of wood (yes, that's the tenuous link to this forum; I cannot find an answer anywhere else!) and I would like to know if it's feasible to use polycarbonate sheets instead of glass.  I'd ideally like to use glass, but it's damn near impossible here in the UK to buy the stuff:  the big DIY stores don't do and the online places charge a fortune for delivery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main concerns, in order of importance are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will the polycarbonate sheets catch alight and burn my house down?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If they don't spontaneously combust, will they deform or 'white-over' with time?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My research has shown that polycarbonate has a fire rating of 1, which means it can be used in schools and hospitals, so I'm assume that item 1. will not happen.  But I'm guessing that if the sheets are close to the candle flame, that item 2. will happen over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone any experience using polycarbonate near naked flames?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4090" LastActivityDate="2017-09-19T00:13:48.217" Title="Can I use polycarbonate sheets in a candle holder?" Tags="|safety|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6445" CreationDate="2017-09-12T16:28:31.340" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rule markings on a try square are not a standard thing. Most of the try squares I've seen don't have any rule markings at all. For example, this try square has none:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nIinW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nIinW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture of a try square&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Image credit: &lt;a href=&quot;https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/User:Luigizanasi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Luigi Zanasi&lt;/a&gt;, via &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Try_square#/media/File:Trysquare.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;. Licensed under CC BY-SA 2.0 ca.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combination squares do have rule markings. And like try squares, they also have a lip on them. The rule of a combination square (the metal bar part with measurement markings on it) can be flipped around, so the rule markings can start at either end of the square. Here's an example of a combination square:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G0cyK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G0cyK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Image credit: &lt;a href=&quot;https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/User:Satrughna02&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Satrughna02&lt;/a&gt;, via &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Combination_square#/media/File:Set_square1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;. Licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2017-09-12T16:28:31.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6448" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-13T21:07:01.897" Score="1" ViewCount="751" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IYdhn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IYdhn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture of first/huge splinter&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I received this 1926 La Vincdora Singer sewing machine in the mail a few days ago. It was sent to me in pristine condition so I have filed a claim. My question is. Is it possible to fix these areas that have splintered from damage (most likely being dropped). I am already planning on sanding or stripping it and staining it to bring it back to its past glory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per requested, I am adding more photos of the splinters from the inside. I was in no way insinuating that this isn't veneered. I know that it is. My problem is that the splinters go all the way through the veneer into the inside of the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(sorry I had to remove one photo to add another.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GIYUN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GIYUN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;This is the inside of where the first splinter comes through&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice is greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4171" OwnerDisplayName="Kaitlyn Moneymaker" LastEditorUserId="4171" LastEditDate="2017-09-14T15:30:13.037" LastActivityDate="2017-09-14T15:30:13.037" Title="Fixing splintered wood on a curved surface" Tags="|wood-repair|veneer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6449" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-14T02:18:24.233" Score="0" ViewCount="126" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking for a wood sealer that I can put on a grill table that will protect from the elements and is food safe. The table is made out of a bunch of scrap pine and 2 × 4's,  Any ideas? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4172" LastActivityDate="2018-01-01T04:36:08.560" Title="Food safe and weather/rot resistance" Tags="|table-making|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6451" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6452" CreationDate="2017-09-14T08:39:52.290" Score="2" ViewCount="346" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making 6 large drawers (514x720x150mm) for the bedroom, with 20mm thick walnut sides (didn't realise quite how expensive that timber would be...!  ) and 8mm plywood for the base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drawer sides are joined with mitre lock joints done with a router, and the base will fit into 8mm deep dados in the drawer sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to glue the base into the dado grooves, and I realise that plywood is dimensionally stable, what I'm not sure if is whether  walnut is sufficiently stable for me to glue the base in snugly without fear of damage from expansion/contraction? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3310" LastEditorUserId="3310" LastEditDate="2017-09-14T17:48:05.467" LastActivityDate="2017-09-14T17:48:05.467" Title="Walnut drawer sides: Is it wise to glue-in the plywood base?" Tags="|hardwood|drawer-construction|gluing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6451" CreationDate="2017-09-14T11:57:33.103" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;you should be fine. the drawer sides are thin enough that expansion/contraction of them is not an issue. furthermore, although you are pinning the dimension of the drawer from the inside, the outside is free to expand - but again, it's such a small amount. solid drawer bottoms are not glued in because the bottom panel &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; wide enough for expansion/contraction to be a major issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2017-09-14T11:57:33.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6454" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6455" CreationDate="2017-09-16T11:54:37.640" Score="4" ViewCount="1319" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 110mm square laminated pine post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to put a 45 degree bevel on the top of the post, around all four edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a mitre saw, but I do have a plunge router and a 45 degree chamfer bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Working on a scrap section of post, and chamfering from the sides of the post, not the top (that is, I rest the router base on the side of the post, bevel that edge of the top and then turn the post onto a different face) I've found that I can't keep the router level -- not enough of the router base is on the post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some jig or trick I should be using? Or is a plunge router an unsuitable tool for this job?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2817" LastActivityDate="2017-09-27T21:09:14.157" Title="Can I chamfer/bevel the top of a post with a router?" Tags="|router|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6454" CreationDate="2017-09-16T13:27:39.663" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WdNMs.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WdNMs.png&quot; alt=&quot;Here&amp;#39;s a simple approach.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;You can place some pieces of the same thickness stock on both sides of the post, and another perpendicular to it at the top to provide a surface at the same level for the router base to sit on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't use the plunge feature - just set the bit to the correct depth and let the router ride on the flat surface provided by the post and the other pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that all the wood involved - the guide pieces as well as the workpiece -should be clamped in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2276" LastEditorUserId="2276" LastEditDate="2017-09-17T14:41:17.103" LastActivityDate="2017-09-17T14:41:17.103" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6456" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6459" CreationDate="2017-09-16T17:42:32.697" Score="1" ViewCount="358" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering what type of filler I should use to obtain a clear coat that will fill the indents obtained after burning wood (see image attached) such that the two surfaces are flat (I'll probably scrape the surfaces so they are even). I was thinking epoxy but I am not sure that will give me the clear coat I am looking to obtain, does anyone have any experience with this? Some lines are burned deeper than others and the piece is approximately 2.5in x 2.5in- This is my first time using a wood burning pen so I am still learning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i1IlA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i1IlA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c7aK6.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c7aK6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c7aK6.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3728" LastEditorUserId="3728" LastEditDate="2017-09-17T04:00:49.300" LastActivityDate="2017-09-17T06:54:20.140" Title="Filling Lines After Pyrography" Tags="|finish-selection|pyrography|burning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6457" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6458" CreationDate="2017-09-16T19:03:29.107" Score="2" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note: I do not have much experience with woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is that wood can have a smooth texture with multiple &quot;rings&quot;?&#xA;(I heard that trees the same number of concentric circle as their &quot;age&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how do producers make it wood so that it does not only have concentric circles, but smooth continous ones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image of the side of desk (the darkened top is just a shadow, the white is a piece of metal - I do not know why it is there):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xYvYV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xYvYV.png&quot; alt=&quot;Wood&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have taken a closer look with my eye (not on the image, but the physical desk) and do not see any discontinuities (no visible straight lines where multiple boards could be connected / glued together)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4179" LastActivityDate="2017-09-16T19:54:11.207" Title="Wood with Smooth Texture" Tags="|technique|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6457" CreationDate="2017-09-16T19:54:11.207" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plywood and veneer are products manufactured in a manner which results in continuous grain lines such as those shown in the photo. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Picture a cylinder of a tree trunk and apply a strong straight cutting edge to the cylinder in the same axis of the trunk. The cutting edge will create a continuous panel of thin wood until the tree trunk becomes too small to handle the forces applied by the cutter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One could postulate that with a large enough panel and small enough tree diameter, the rings could be traced and patterned in such a way that you could see where each layer began and ended the &quot;overlap&quot; but such practice seems rather obsessive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The full process is somewhat more complex than the description above. Here's an image from a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.madehow.com/Volume-4/Plywood.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;website which provides a more detailed description&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nb2ze.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nb2ze.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Plywood Manufacturing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2017-09-16T19:54:11.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6456" CreationDate="2017-09-17T06:54:20.140" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can certainly do this with epoxy but you could use shellac or varnish to achieve the same end, just a little more slowly*. You could probably do this quite well with a spray lacquer too, depending on what's available to you locally. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're probably not thinking of the long term on this piece but one thing to note for the future is that epoxy does degrade with UV exposure and once it starts to fail (by becoming yellower and/or going cloudy) it is practically impossible to remove without sanding it from the surface. Even though varnishes, polyurethane in particular, are hard to remove as far as regular wood finishes go (being very insoluble once fully cured) they can still be attacked by the right solvents in certain chemical strippers so if needed they can be completely removed without damage to the underlying wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shellac and some true lacquers remain soluble in their original solvents indefinitely so there's no issue with either of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Perhaps four coats of varnish applied at full strength will build up sufficient thickness here, but this depends on the viscosity of the varnish being used. With some varnishes (generally cheaper ones) expect it to take more, as many as 6-7, which could take you a week to apply with one day's drying time between coats. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that the varnish needs to fully 'dry' (&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/884/what-is-the-difference-between-curing-and-drying/897?s=1|1.9215#897&quot;&gt;cure&lt;/a&gt;) until it achieves its final hardness, which takes a further week or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-09-17T06:54:20.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6460" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-17T12:21:16.120" Score="1" ViewCount="4357" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought an old desk at a garage sale, and I want to restain it. I've already sanded the whole desk and am ready to clean it up with tack cloth and restain.  I didn't sand down to  plain colored wood, but just enough to remove the surface imperfections and cup stains, etc.  Should I use wood conditioner on it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is unclear to me as to whether wood conditioner is only for totally unfinished wood or if it is good to use on old finished wood that has been sanded and is ready to restain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4180" LastActivityDate="2017-09-17T17:52:42.783" Title="Refinishing wood: Should I use wood conditioner after light sanding before staining an old desk?" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6460" CreationDate="2017-09-17T17:52:42.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Conditioner&quot; is not for any wood, it's intended for woods that are problematic when it comes to staining&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. If you're not staining they're not a relevant part of a finishing regime, ditto if you aren't using a problem wood. Oak is not one of those woods. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you haven't removed all the previous finish the wood is not ready for staining in the conventional sense so either you're already planning on using something like &quot;gel stain&quot; or you need to switch your plan to it, or a product that works similarly&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. Or, you need to strip the piece to get down to bare wood so that you can stain it conventionally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that staining is not a must-do. Stain is only to change the colour of wood if desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It is unclear to me as to whether wood conditioner is only for totally unfinished wood&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes it's only for bare wood. I would hope this would be specified clearly on the on-tin instructions, although I wouldn't be surprised if this is not the case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason it's only for bare wood is the same thing can be accomplished using any finish, including a layer of oil, dilute shellac or thinned varnish&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;, at much lower cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;Woods prone to blotching when stained, e.g. pine and cherry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;Doesn't colour the wood directly but adds it as a surface coating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;This is in fact what most &quot;wood conditioners&quot; are, nothing more or less than very dilute shellac or varnish of some kind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-09-17T17:52:42.783" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="741" CreationDate="2017-09-17T21:23:46.270" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just hand-planed several dozen blocks for an end grain cutting board using my shooting board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It worked pretty well, there was minimal tearout on maybe 10% of the blocks.  I could have improved on this with a sharper blade and tighter tolerances on the shooting board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A temporary shooting board is pretty easy to make, might be worth a shot!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4184" LastEditorUserId="4184" LastEditDate="2017-09-18T01:37:54.143" LastActivityDate="2017-09-18T01:37:54.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6446" CreationDate="2017-09-18T16:11:18.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buy glass from your local picture framer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4090" LastEditorUserId="4178" LastEditDate="2017-09-19T00:13:48.217" LastActivityDate="2017-09-19T00:13:48.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1489" CreationDate="2017-09-19T13:03:31.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our operator was injured from a static discharge of a PVC pipe entering his hand and exiting his elbow, so it is not a myth. This was in a dust collection application. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4192" LastActivityDate="2017-09-19T13:03:31.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6465" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-19T18:29:48.527" Score="8" ViewCount="62673" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I'm using PVA or wood glue, how long does the workpiece need to remain clamped before I can remove the clamps and move on to the next stage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks to the magic of editing, it's hard to tell from YouTube instructional videos unless someone mentions it directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3516" LastActivityDate="2017-09-20T06:15:47.343" Title="How long does glue take to dry?" Tags="|glue|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6465" CreationDate="2017-09-19T18:32:37.327" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;the general guideline is 30 minutes. That assumes dry wood and that the joint is well-fitted and not particularly stressed. Not that you should ever have poor fitting joints, but if they are, and/or if the joint is stressed (even by the weight of the members) it's probably best to wait longer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2017-09-19T18:32:37.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6417" CreationDate="2017-09-19T19:23:04.480" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hardwoods are easy to work with and most durable for play - Oak and Maple are very commonly used for puzzles and &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1887/whats-an-appropriate-wood-type-for-making-toy-blocks&quot;&gt;block toys&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pine (or hemlock, fir, etc) - standard big box lumber also would work but since it is softer it would not be as durable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Painting any of these woods is straightforward, just follow the paint directions - many standard paints sold in the USA are non toxic, but a clear coat will help seal them and harden them. Spray painting them (with spray can or paint sprayer) might help achieve a smoother finish. And a polyurethane clear coat would make them more durable and is food safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also some great info about painting toys here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toymakingplans.com/website/ToySafety.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.toymakingplans.com/website/ToySafety.html&lt;/a&gt; - specifically how to get them nice and smooth with spray paint and polyurethane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4195" LastActivityDate="2017-09-19T19:23:04.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6465" CreationDate="2017-09-20T06:15:47.343" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;As is frequently the case in woodworking, it depends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most common wood glues, including all PVA-type adhesives (both white and yellow), dry by dehydration. That is they are literally dried, principally by the wood absorbing moisture from the glue and a little by evaporation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So clearly there will be two main factors affecting drying time — the moisture content of the wood and the local conditions (temp and humidity). So in short, if the wood is dry and it's warm drying times are shorter than if the wood is less dry and it's cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of this it's only possible to give very general guidelines as to drying times and glue manufacturers will provide conservative estimates so people don't get themselves into trouble. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;how long does the workpiece need to remain clamped before I can remove the clamps and move on to the next stage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the right conditions a glue joint can be dry enough to take movement and light handling (no more than this!) in 20-30 minutes but when it's cooler this could take an hour or longer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Err on the side of caution, because if you take the clamps off too early the glue joints can open up very slightly and result in &lt;em&gt;greatly&lt;/em&gt; reduced strength in the joint. Because of the high humidity and lower temps that are common where I am I don't take clamps off for at least two hours and as much as possible leave them of for the complete drying time, which in my case is 6-8 hours or overnight if the piece was completed late in the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Low-temperature warning&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It's important to note that with most glues low temperatures can retard drying greatly &lt;em&gt;and if low enough may prevent the glue bonding properly&lt;/em&gt;. So do heed any on-pack instructions with regard to acceptable temperature ranges or you could end up with a piece that isn't bonded together properly &lt;em&gt;even after the temperature has subsequently risen&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-09-20T06:15:47.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6469" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-20T11:10:20.327" Score="1" ViewCount="2889" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm converting a (high roof, LWB) panel van into a camper, and want to use ply both for walls/ceiling/floor and for furniture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What type (hardwood/softwood) and thicknesses should I use for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The walls&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;9mm soft (or 12mm so I could hang things off it if I decided to)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The ceiling&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe 6mm or 9mm of soft? I really don't know.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The floor&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12mm of soft?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A bed&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12mm hard? Or is that overkill? Should I have it thicker for the slats than the support?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A kitchen unit (sink &amp;amp; two hobs &amp;amp; maybe a microwave)&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6mm? Don't know about type&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guesses might be totally off-base, I'm pretty new to woodworking and really know very little about what sort ply is appropriate for what function. Basically I want to keep cost and weight down without keeping them so far down that the wood will bow or break. If it's relevant, I'm hoping to have a wood burner in there (obviously not sitting directly on ply), so there might be fairly quick temperature variance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4197" LastActivityDate="2017-09-20T11:10:20.327" Title="Type and thickness of ply for converting van" Tags="|furniture|plywood|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6417" CreationDate="2017-09-21T12:00:49.523" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I vote for a good quality plywood - particularly baltic birch plywood. Using good plywood means that the panels will be flat and smooth without your needing to worry about it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2017-09-21T12:00:49.523" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6471" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6472" CreationDate="2017-09-22T01:59:03.460" Score="1" ViewCount="123" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to replicate the below image. &#xA;I originally thought this was a jack miter but I was wrong. Please help!  I know I'm being needy on this task but I'm 2 weeks at this and I'm still stuck. :( &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jucZ4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jucZ4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took this joint apart from another place in my house and my brain hurts on how to create this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iLlax.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iLlax.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/reJSG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/reJSG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another angle. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/24VZ9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/24VZ9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4122" LastActivityDate="2017-09-22T07:06:58.333" Title="How to create a coped casing joint" Tags="|finishing|joinery|trim|butt-joint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6471" CreationDate="2017-09-22T07:06:58.333" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Scribe, saw and pare until you get a good fit, fix in place. It really is about as simple as that. Remember the tight fit only has to be right at the edge, it can be undercut away from the edge and won't make any difference — which based on the third photo it appears is how the original is done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this joint doesn't have to be done this way. You can cut away the moulded edge from the horizontal member and simply cut the end of the vertical piece straight across and butt it into the space! Flexible fillers have made this sort of joint more acceptable in painted work than in the past where tight edge-to-surface joints (coped joints) were more standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-09-22T07:06:58.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6473" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-22T10:38:32.350" Score="1" ViewCount="1384" Body="&lt;p&gt;As per the title, I work at a conservatory manufacturer and as such we often have large bits of hardwood (up to around 56x220mm section) which need to be joined with a mitre, such that the larger face is sitting on brickwork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically we cut the mitres accurately, machine worktop bolts into the undersides and sometimes dowels or biscuits for locating the pieces together correctly on site. We seal the end-grain of the pieces with a purpose-made end-grain sealer, then paint with water-based microporous paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever I go out to site to a job which has been installed for ~6 months or more, the sills and any other large mitred joins have typically opened up. I don't think that the pieces of timber overall have moved, I think it's more to do with across-grain shrinkage of the timber(?). I also see the same on pieces which other people have supplied, installed and finished such as internal window boards/sills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some way of joining them, some kind of sealant I can use etc. which will stop this from happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note I have seen this question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/6091/end-grain-mitre-joints-for-outside&quot;&gt;End grain mitre joints for outside&lt;/a&gt; but I believe my question is a bit different because it's specifically dealing with very large section sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2020-06-14T07:50:43.433" Title="Is there any way to join/seal large exterior mitre joints such as on a bay window sill so that they don't open up?" Tags="|miter-joint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6473" CreationDate="2017-09-23T07:17:25.907" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Select the wood more carefully&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Switch to using quarter-sawn boards. Without changing the species of wood currently used selecting quarter-sawn only for these pieces would go a long way towards minimising the problem because of the reduced shrinkage (&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3441/what-is-the-maximum-width-for-a-full-cross-grain-glue-up/3533#3533&quot;&gt;typically around half that in plain-sawn wood&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this is unlikely to be seen as a cost-effective solution in a modern commercial environment because of the premium placed on QS stock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Change material type&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Stop using natural wood altogether for these elements. This could be much more doable as far as the decision makers in the company are concerned. Either switch to a composite material, something along the lines of DymondWood, or to a stabilised-wood product such as Accoya. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Change coating system&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Again I'm sure this won't float as a solution but if you changed your coating system you could stick with your current wood (irrespective of what it is, good or bad) and the issue would vanish overnight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with this as a fix though is you'd be switching to an epoxy and have to be religious about not leaving any gaps or voids that would allow moisture ingress. In addition to epoxies being very expensive the initial coating would have to be carried out carefully (i.e. it would be slow, and slow costs) but probably most importantly the maintenance schedule wouldn't be tolerable the way it is in a marine environment. Ongoing and regular finish maintenance is an accepted fact of life around boats but I presume it wouldn't be acceptable for conservatories where customers expect minimal maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't use mitres for these joints&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is the simplest and cheapest solution by far but I don't know how acceptable it'll be seen to be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wide-board frames/casings were often done using simple butt joints in the past precisely for the reason that mitres open up over time, and the wider the board the greater the gap that opens. By switching to a butt joint the wood can shrink all it likes and all you're left with is a discrepancy at the corner, not an unsightly gap in a mitre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-09-23T07:17:25.907" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6475" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-24T13:03:25.393" Score="8" ViewCount="358" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently got into the woodworking.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So, basically I have to learn from A to Z.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I don't know things about woodworking safety too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I have two options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Go to the woodworker, pay up the money and learn from him.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Learn through Youtube.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First one seems more proper way and more safe, but I'm a student so &#xA;I'm in a budget.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Second one seems more inappropriate but I can save the money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which one do you guys recommend me to do?&#xA;How did you guys learn the woodworking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4108" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2017-09-26T15:06:03.150" LastActivityDate="2021-09-14T03:35:19.797" Title="How to learn woodworking" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6475" CreationDate="2017-09-24T16:09:58.563" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't have to pay someone to learn how to work safely. Youtube, books/internet, and a critical mindset should be sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting small projects with hand (as opposed to power) tools will teach you how wood behaves. From there, keep taking small steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2017-09-24T16:09:58.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6475" CreationDate="2017-09-24T21:26:15.360" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Woodworking is a work that makes peace of mind or practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a carpenter in the school period specialist furniture, graduated 20 years of woodworking is still a leisure and social hobby.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is necessary to use the tools, and to be able to safely operate the tools, which is the need to be properly taught and concentrate on their own learning and time to stack experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I propose to pay tuition fees to carpentry vocational training institutions, the benefits of a short time to learn the basic skills of carpentry, you can also get the initial national certification for the work of the license.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kyJqk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kyJqk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this answer will help you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4219" LastActivityDate="2017-09-24T21:26:15.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6475" CreationDate="2017-09-25T08:13:13.930" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I have two options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go to the woodworker, pay up the money and learn from him.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Learn through Youtube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Books.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're on a budget you can learn woodworking without any direct teaching (and this process can continue for the rest of your life if you want or need it to). There is a long tradition amongst amateur woodworkers of self-directed learning, starting with reading and continuing via practice and experimentation, and it's far easier now than at any time in the past because of the Internet..... although please don't make the Internet your only source of information :-/&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most people however it is much much faster to learn from a good teacher. But it's important to realise that not every professional is going to be one. They of course have a lot to teach, but they may not be very good at getting it across — some people are born doers, others are born teachers and it's widely recognised in various fields that the two things &lt;em&gt;often&lt;/em&gt; don't go together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;YouTube&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I'll say it straight out, YouTube is a terrible way to learn woodworking &lt;em&gt;if it's your only source&lt;/em&gt;. Unless you're extremely careful&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; you'll pick up many bad habits, and some outright dangerous working practices. This is especially true of American woodworkers on YT (sorry American SEers!) who routinely pay little or no heed to accepted safety measures. &lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; this includes a few of the Big Names in YT woodworking&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, not just random guys working in backwoods shacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you want to learn safe working practices for power tools be very careful from whom you pick up working habits. You do want to exercise due caution with hand tools&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; but while you can hurt yourself with those the injury would rarely be life-changing or life-threatening. Accidents using major power tools, the table saw especially, are often major and &lt;em&gt;can easily be fatal&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please read the following:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/21/how-do-i-prevent-dangerous-kickback-on-a-table-saw&quot;&gt;How do I prevent dangerous kickback on a table saw?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3825/table-saw-safety-devices&quot;&gt;Table saw safety devices&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; And it's difficult to be selective until you know more which is a catch-22 situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; I probably can't name names here because of what follows, but next time you peruse YouTube for woodworking content pay attention to the Americans using the table saw, look for the use of a blade guard and riving knife. Chances are &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt; will be missing which is unacceptably dangerous, and frankly there's a case to be made that it is criminally negligent in a teaching environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Chisels especially, &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; cut away from yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-09-13T06:38:03.530" LastActivityDate="2021-09-13T06:38:03.530" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6475" CreationDate="2017-09-25T15:23:31.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Now I have two options.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  1. Go to the woodworker, pay up the money and learn from him.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  2. Learn through Youtube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(or 4, given Graphus' answer) Join your local makerspace and/or woodworking club.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Makerspaces will likely have many of the usual woodworking tools, and will probably require you to demonstrate the ability to use them properly before allowing you to use them. If not, they'll likely require you to take some kind of safety class at the very least, and many may also have additional classes on usage and advanced techniques. These makerspace memberships cost a lot less than school tuition, and as an added benefit, you don't need to buy tools immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Woodworking clubs probably won't be as structured, and classes will probably be more rare, but some of the WW clubs do offer them. Safety, techniques, etc. You may be able to connect with a woodworker close to you, who might be willing to let you use their tools. Being in the group environment, they may also share knowledge about safety practices, techniques, project ideas, etc - especially for materials available (cheaply) in your area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastActivityDate="2017-09-25T15:23:31.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6483" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6484" CreationDate="2017-09-26T13:01:35.443" Score="1" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever I mix two-part epoxy, the combined volume appears to be 20%-30% less than the individual parts. Why is this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this is woodworking-related, as I'm using epoxy to fill voids, but if I should ask elsewhere please point me in the right direction. I considered asking this on the chemistry SE site, but everything over there seems to be more about electron configuration, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3096" LastActivityDate="2017-09-26T14:40:26.847" Title="Why does two-part epoxy shrink when mixed?" Tags="|epoxy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6483" CreationDate="2017-09-26T14:40:26.847" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trying to recall my grade 11 chemistry here, but the makeup of the two parts are not identical and one has molecules that fit in the empty spaces of the other part.  You can observe the same behaviour with other liquids like mixing water and alcohol.  Or an easier to visualize example is imagine pouring sand into a container filled with large marbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mass of the two will equal the sum of both masses, but the volume is dependent on many aspects including the molecular structure, temperature, air pressure, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2017-09-26T14:40:26.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6485" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-27T03:56:45.030" Score="3" ViewCount="4523" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I avoid streaks or elevated lines when I wipe off the Good Stuff? Should it be thinned somehow so that the gel will settle onto an even plane? I do not have a problem with the initial coat as it mainly gets absorbed by the wood, but coats 2, 3 and 4 usually are not smooth. I've sanded with 400 which does remove some of the elevated areas but not completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would applying paste wav using 000 steel wool help smooth out the finish? This is being applied to a desk for my son.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kukQs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kukQs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4225" LastActivityDate="2017-09-27T07:57:19.933" Title="Emmets Good Stuff" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6485" CreationDate="2017-09-27T07:57:19.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should it be thinned somehow so that the gel will settle onto an even plane? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do that but it negates the advantage of using a gel varnish in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How do I avoid streaks or elevated lines when I wipe off the Good Stuff?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  coats 2, 3 and 4 usually are not smooth&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Type of cloth may make a difference&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The type of cloth you use may have a large effect here so you should experiment and see what works best for you. Over the years I've seen recommendations for cheesecloth, old sports socks (clean!), pantyhose/tights wrapped around a cotton cloth, quality paper towels, lint-free cotton such as from old sheets or T-shirts and last but by no means least, microfibre cloths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I would recommend always wearing gloves for this part of the process. Regardless if you're okay with cleaning varnish off your skin afterwards and no matter how tough and gnarly your hands are :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wipe until it's done&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I don't use gel varnish much but what I've found is you should continue wiping until you don't have elevated lines, which can be quite a race when it's warm and you have a fast-drying product! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does involve wiping away more of the product than you really want to (because that's all wasted) but it's the only real alternative to sanding the surface afterwards which I try to avoid. To prevent excessive waste I try to apply the minimum amount to begin with*.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, sanding the surface afterwards IS a well-established way of perfecting the surface of dried finish, to make it dead flat and also to achieve a specific sheen (i.e. going from high gloss to any level of reduced sheen).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've sanded with 400 which does remove some of the elevated areas but not completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sand further. When you're sanding to remove an application defect, you keep sanding until the surface is as uniform as it needs to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would applying paste wav using 000 steel wool help smooth out the finish? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes a little but, but you should only do this once you're sure no more varnish is going on as the wax would interfere with adhesion. Also, steel wool (and other conformable abrasives) are best at giving a &lt;em&gt;uniform sheen&lt;/em&gt;, not at &lt;em&gt;cutting back&lt;/em&gt; which is the stage you're still at. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Same as when applying BLO or wiping varnish where I never flood the surface. Even though this is fairly common advice it merely wastes finish and should only be done when speed is essential — subsequent coats will achieve the same end without tons of finish ending up soaked into rags that are going to be thrown away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-09-27T07:57:19.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6454" CreationDate="2017-09-27T21:09:14.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually use a circular saw with a bevel set to 45 degrees for exactly what you're taking about.  I set a speed square against the post to give me a rail to cut against to get a straight cut.   As long as the end of the post is cut off square, you get good results with the bevels all matching up.  Run the saw against the face of the post, not along the end grain.  That way you get more surface to hold your saw against.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="837" LastActivityDate="2017-09-27T21:09:14.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="425" CreationDate="2017-09-27T23:04:05.683" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just used a sawmax for this purpose, and while it wasn't pretty, it worked great.  I simply set the depth to match the slot I needed for the biscuit, and made them a bit oversized so that I had &quot;wiggle&quot; room to align the boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4227" LastActivityDate="2017-09-27T23:04:05.683" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6489" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-28T10:21:44.327" Score="0" ViewCount="2481" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to make a gallows for Halloween.  I found this on wikihow (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wikihow.com/Build-a-Gallows#Putting_them_Together_sub&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;picture here&lt;/a&gt;) which shows using something like a 2x4 as a brace for the 4x4 which is attached to the 4x4 and floor.  I found this question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5412/what-joint-should-i-use-for-this-45-degree-angled-brace&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, that describes something similar to what I am trying to accomplish.  My concern is the floor is only about 1&quot; thick so not sure this joint would work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to re-use the gallows again, so using nails is probably not my best option.  I was looking into using an insert nut (similar to what I see used on beds). I also thought about using a Kreg Jig, but the conern of the floor only being 1&quot; thick was a concern again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what would be the best approach, in this case, especially the joint between the 2x4 and floor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4229" LastActivityDate="2017-09-28T20:05:47.940" Title="How to fasten a 2x4 to a 4x4 and a floor that is 1&quot; made of plywood" Tags="|butt-joint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6489" CreationDate="2017-09-28T17:17:28.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For something that could be disassembled and reassembled each year, I would give strong consideration to carriage bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A single carriage bolt could serve for both braces where they meet the upright. An oversized washer underneath would mitigate any possibility of pulling through the plywood, although I'd be inclined to think a regular-sized washer would be plenty. You'll need to judge based on how solid the plywood is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would require drilling holes at 45-degrees to the surface, which can be a little tricky. You would want to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Counterbore&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;counterbore&lt;/a&gt; the holes in the 2 x 4 to accommodate the head of the carriage bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would want to position the carriage bolts well away from the &quot;sharp&quot; edges of the mitered ends to reduce the risk of tearing out. I'd say centering them 2/3 of the way in would be a good first notion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you oriented the 2 x 4 brace the &quot;wide&quot; way rather than the &quot;tall&quot; way, you might consider using two smaller carriage bolts at each end side-by-side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2017-09-28T17:17:28.977" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6489" CreationDate="2017-09-28T20:05:47.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you go to your local big box home center, they have metal brackets with which you can attach 2x4s and 4x4s in almost any configuration you can imagine.  I used some of them several years ago to attach 4x4 legs for a balcony to the stage floor.  This removes the need to screw at a 45 degree angle or to try to get access from underneath (and screw into end grain).  You should be able to find them over near the construction grade dimensional lumber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="447" LastActivityDate="2017-09-28T20:05:47.940" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6492" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-29T12:51:22.470" Score="2" ViewCount="201" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making an armchair for a child. I want the back leg to be straight-vertical at the seat level but kick back down the floor, and lean back at the, erm, back. Much like every other rear chair leg in the universe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is I only have planed 45×22mm stock to hand. I actually have a lot of this lying around from a previous miscalculation. So my thought process has so far gone:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's too thick to bend. (Isn't it? I've never tried steam bending before but remember I'm a homegamer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I could resaw it down and do a bent lamination.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;But it'd be easiest —if a little wasteful— to just glue a pile of this together on their 45mm faces and cutting two legs out of the pack. Here's my  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8dZKd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;skilful depiction of how that'd look&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That last option does mean that the bit of wood that touches the floor, will likely be one or two planks away from the main load. I know yellow glue is good stuff but is this a good idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or should I just go and spend the £2 it'd cost to get a bit of rough-sawn timber in the right size?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3990" LastActivityDate="2017-10-02T11:20:15.347" Title="Will gluing thin planks to cut out curved chair leg be strong?" Tags="|glue|bending|steam-bending|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6492" CreationDate="2017-09-29T17:00:23.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's a pretty substantial bend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steambending is probably not an option, especially if the wood has been kiln dried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing a glue-up is theoretically strong enough, but a lot depends on stock preparation. If I did this, I'd want some mechanical assistance in there (screws, dowels, biscuits...), as it's a pretty substantial bend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buying new is certainly an option, but to my initial point, that's a pretty substantial bend, and it might not lend itself to being very strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, aside from joinery-related alternates, that leaves us with resaw/laminate. In my opinion, this is the strongest and possibly the coolest of the options. It might give you an excuse to buy more clamps, and who doesn't appreciate more clamps? You get to learn a new skill in a low-risk environment, so that's good, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2017-09-29T17:00:23.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6492" CreationDate="2017-09-29T17:54:15.837" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the drawing, I wouldn't have understood what you were hoping to do without it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It's too thick to bend. (Isn't it? I've never tried steam bending before but remember I'm a homegamer)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not too thick to bend, but there are some &lt;em&gt;it depends&lt;/em&gt;. Species matters, how the wood was originally dried matters, but the main thing is the orientation of the bend and since this leg style would require you to bend the board sideways — across its width, not through its thickness — which I think alone rules it out. It's probably possible but in practice the hurdles for a first-timer might discount this option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I could resaw it down and do a bent lamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have the means to do that I think it's your best option of those presented. It's quite a bit of work of course, but mostly repetitive effort and not especially difficult work. In addition to being relatively easy to do it will also result in a leg that you can trust to be immensely strong, and a good result is virtually guaranteed if you get all your ducks in a row before you begin and simply go through the steps methodically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this is the winner IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;But it'd be easiest —if a little wasteful— to just glue a pile of this together on their 45mm faces and cutting two legs out of the pack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This won't work. Well it will in the sense that you could glue up the boards as drawn and cut the legs out, but they won't be strong enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;That last option does mean that the bit of wood that touches the floor, will likely be one or two planks away from the main load. I know yellow glue is good stuff but is this a good idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not the joints, the glue joints are actually irrelevant (remember that long-grain joints are as strong &lt;em&gt;or stronger&lt;/em&gt; than the wood around them). The problem is orienting the grain that way results in short grain at the bottom of the leg, which is inherently weak and is probably guaranteed to split in service. Good grain orientation on legs is important even on things that aren't intended to take any weight, such as a three-legged round table. On a chair it's a safety issue and becomes vital.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If in addition to glueing together as drawn you also laminated face to face, in essence making plywood, that would be strong enough. But it's a lot of work to go to to prep the wood prior to glueing up and you'd have to be very careful to prevent warping after the wood has been prepped to the required thicknesses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2017-09-29T18:06:18.313" LastActivityDate="2017-09-29T18:06:18.313" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6495" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-30T06:13:13.310" Score="0" ViewCount="241" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HFGb2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;Can somebody please help me out by naming the second tool in the row of tools in this image ? Thank you&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bwl7P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4235" LastEditorUserId="4235" LastEditDate="2017-09-30T07:18:02.167" LastActivityDate="2017-10-01T23:22:43.487" Title="What is the name of the second tool" Tags="|hand-tools|tools|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6495" CreationDate="2017-09-30T12:03:35.093" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aha! I found it deep in the recesses of my alleged mind, and on The Google too. It's a rebar wire twisting tool. A length of wire with loops at each end is wrapped around an intersection of rebar. The tool passes through the loops and is spun to rapidly secure the rebar together, preventing it from shifting during the pour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An auction posted to eBay also suggests that it is a rope twisting tool for the farm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hqIKr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hqIKr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rebar twisting tool&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Uh oh, not a wood working tool!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2017-09-30T12:03:35.093" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6497" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-01T01:33:15.897" Score="2" ViewCount="5641" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the article in fine woodworking on gluing up joints: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The formula for number of clamps required is (square inches of glued joint x PSI for the wood in question) divided by PSI of the clamp you are using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am gluing up a desktop made of 2x2's of different hardwoods (red oak, cherry, walnut, maple and poplar.  According to the article, the required gluing pressure averages about 350 psi, so for my project (6' long joints on 2x2 which are actually 1-13/16 squared) comes to:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;(72&quot; x 1.81) x 350 = 45,675&#xA;divided by ~1000 (pressure exerted by 3/4&quot; pipe clamp.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;]&#xA;That works out to &lt;strong&gt;45&lt;/strong&gt; 3/4 inch bar clamps for a 6' length!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means I need a clamp every 1.6&quot;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That seems really nutso.  Is it accurate?  Do I really need basically as many clamps as I can fit on the board for the full 6' length?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4237" LastEditorUserId="4237" LastEditDate="2017-10-01T04:43:18.523" LastActivityDate="2017-10-05T07:30:44.510" Title="I calculated the recommended number of clamps required for my table top and the answer seems insane" Tags="|technique|joinery|glue|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6497" CreationDate="2017-10-01T07:18:21.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;That works out to 45 3/4 inch bar clamps for a 6' length!&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  This means I need a clamp every 1.6&quot;!&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  That seems really nutso. Is it accurate? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of their recommendations in this article you can usefully extrapolate out from this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kzLx2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kzLx2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Clamping recommendation, FW article&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/2010/05/11/how-to-glue-up-joints-the-right-number-of-clamps&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Glue-Up Joints: The right number of clamps&lt;/a&gt; on Fine Woodworking.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above is going to seem like complete overkill to many (probably most) woodworkers who glue up stuff all the time. But to put it into some kind of perspective, in factories that assemble 'butcher block' countertops the clamping is done in hydraulic clamping rigs that can be capable of exerting over 100,000 lb (45,000 kg) for precisely the reason that that is the kind of pressure testing has indicated IS needed for maximum joint strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do I really need basically as many clamps as I can fit on the board for the full 6' length?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While with PVA glues it wouldn't hurt to use more clamps than typical, there is a practical limit in what &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; fit and a definite upper limit to the number of the largest clamps most people can afford (more than a dozen? no way) and, let's be honest, be bothered to deal with during a large assembly!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One does have to be serious about clamp pressure where you want the strongest joints. In the recent past and continuing on to today woodworkers do have a tendency to under-clamp, in part because of a mistaken but unfortunately widespread belief that you can starve joints made using any glue with clamp pressure (you can with some adhesives, not with PVA). Since we don't see widespread failures in PVA glue joints* it indicates you don't have to go crazy on the number of clamps and how hard you crank them down to get joints that are &lt;em&gt;strong enough&lt;/em&gt; for service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that said for any clamp capable of exerting enough pressure to crush wood you should use a scrap piece of softwood as a clamping block so that they can take the damage, not the edge of the workpiece, and then tighten the clamp hard enough that the scrap block &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; dent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*We'd all know about them if they happened, given the Internet! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2017-10-05T07:30:44.510" LastActivityDate="2017-10-05T07:30:44.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6500" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-01T14:29:28.193" Score="1" ViewCount="2020" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to apply Minwax Polyshades espresso stain after having applied a coat of Minwax Polyshades pecan to solid pine wood. I pre-conditioned the wood and applied two coats of the pecan. I'm using an old t-shirt to apply the stain as I find it works best to prevent blotching and air bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I'm trying to darken the wood tone a bit in general but especially along the edges and the knots. It doesn't seem to be working for some reason, and I'm wondering if it's because Minwax Polyshades includes the polyurethane finish and so my third coat of espresso stain is not able to adhere to the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried sanding one edge to the bare wood, but the espresso stain still had trouble adhering for some reason: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W04pt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W04pt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PRyqW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PRyqW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to apply multiple stains of espresso? Or perhaps sand more before applying the espresso? Or is this all I can get with a product like Polyshades that includes the polyurethane finish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4240" LastActivityDate="2017-12-30T20:10:30.410" Title="How do I apply Minwax Polyshades Espresso stain over two coats of Polyshades Pecan stain to darken a bit?" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6500" CreationDate="2017-10-01T18:34:50.920" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Now, I'm trying to darken the wood tone a bit in general but especially along the edges and the knots. It doesn't seem to be working for some reason, and I'm wondering if it's because Minwax Polyshades includes the polyurethane finish &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes that's definitely part of it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd actually be in a pickle here even if you'd only &quot;conditioned&quot; the wood. &quot;Wood conditioner&quot; reduces the ability of wood to absorb stain, that's how it fixes blotching, but overall it quite significantly changes how dark it can get from any given stain colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you apply poly to the wood the absorbency basically goes down to zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;so my third coat of espresso stain is not able to adhere to the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Genuine stains need to be applied to bare wood. This is something that should be clearly specified on the label.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get the wood much darker than this the best option is to switch product, to a coloured varnish or &quot;gel stain&quot; (which despite its name is not stain, it's coloured varnish that has been artificially thickened to a gel consistency to aid in even application).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also use any of the darker shades of shellac to do the same job but applying shellac evenly over a large surface takes practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-10-01T18:34:50.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6502" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-01T19:22:23.663" Score="2" ViewCount="1211" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought some &quot;brass&quot; wood screws yesterday at a local hardware store and they were bending and breaking off in the hole. I compared them to some brass screws I had ordered from Fastenal, a commercial supplier, last year and the hardware screws were lighter in color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brass screws are supposed to be made of &quot;high brass&quot;, 65% copper, 35% zinc. Is there a chance I have a substandard screw with too much zinc in it, or am just being paranoid and the lighter color is because the screws are newer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to check the screws to see if they have the right composition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2017-10-12T14:53:14.003" Title="Are &quot;brass&quot; wood screws liable to be fake, or am I just using them too roughly?" Tags="|screws|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6502" CreationDate="2017-10-01T19:36:22.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say it's possible the composition and hence performance is different, but I don't think that's the only factor. Where I work (at a commercial joinery making windows, doors etc.) we go through thousands and thousands of screws per month and I can tell you that 99% of the screws that you get are rubbish - just generally poor quality, easy to snap, soft heads which round out etc. and even screws which claim to be made from the same stuff, by different makers, can vary wildly in terms of performance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally I would say if you find one make of screws which works for you, then stick with it. Even if the material composition is the same, I believe things such as heat treatment/how they are formed can affect the performance. I'm no metallurgist but cold-forged screws seem to be better for at least some alloys as I think the metal &quot;work-hardens&quot; and becomes stronger through the forming process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for good strong screws then I recommend Reisser R2's if you can get them, but these are not &quot;pretty&quot; screws which you might want to leave on show. They are super super strong through - hard to round out and they almost never snap unless you screw in and remove the same screw repeatedly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2017-10-01T19:36:22.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6497" CreationDate="2017-10-01T21:29:10.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/skills/take-it-easy-with-clamping-pressure&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/skills/take-it-easy-with-clamping-pressure&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to this Article the makers of Titebond recommend 175 to 250PSI for hardwoods, and they also say that a C-clamp can exert about 2000 lbs of pressure. Plug those numbers into your equation and you get 72 x 1.81 x 250 = 32580lbs total pressure along the length, divided by 2000lbs per clamp = 16.3 clamps, rounded up to 17 total or about 1 every 4 inches. Seems a bit more sensible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW though I don't think putting too much pressure into a joint (as mentioned in the article) is an issue. I've never managed to do it. I work at a commercial joinery and we laminate hardwoods up all the time and use big, seriously chunky sash cramps, tightened up to the max, and have never had a joint fail from being &quot;glue starved&quot; - you'll crush the wood before you starve a joint of glue from overclamping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastEditorUserId="272" LastEditDate="2017-10-03T12:43:33.100" LastActivityDate="2017-10-03T12:43:33.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6497" CreationDate="2017-10-01T21:54:08.087" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will be fine even if you use fewer clamps. &#xA;Alternatively build yourself a few clamps out of 3/4 pipe. They put a lot of pressure &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4241" LastActivityDate="2017-10-01T21:54:08.087" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6262" CreationDate="2017-10-01T23:08:28.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A saw. hoof file for the horse, Or rasp. file, drill bit home made, bit handle, spoke shave, knife, mall home made,[type of hammer] chisle's,  These would all be common tools to have. All would work on soft wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4243" LastActivityDate="2017-10-01T23:08:28.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6495" CreationDate="2017-10-01T23:22:43.487" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is a spring puller. It appears home made. It is to reach into a tight place &amp;amp; pull up a coil spring. Or to unhook a coil spring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4244" LastActivityDate="2017-10-01T23:22:43.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1423" CreationDate="2017-10-02T03:26:48.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm old enough now I suppose I'm the &quot;fathers&quot; age group.  Shop class and catalogs of the era when I was in school said saber saw was the handheld power tool and jigsaw was the benchtop tool.  Even back then there was confusion over the terms.  Scrolling was something you did with either tool, a process, not a tool.  As much as I dislike it, jigsaw has become the dominate term for either.  Times, and the language we speak changes over time and I'm afraid the term Jigsaw has superseded saber saw and unless you want to appear as one of the model T generation, jigsaw is the term to use.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being a stickler for &quot;accuracy&quot; I'm not sure what I'll use.  Be correct and outdated and use a term nobody else knows or be wrong but have people understand what I'm saying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4246" LastActivityDate="2017-10-02T03:26:48.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6492" CreationDate="2017-10-02T11:20:15.347" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;have you ruled out doing this just using joinery? a couple half-lap miters in the right spots will be extremely and sufficiently strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other options too, involving tenons (loose, or regular), dowels, or biscuits. For example, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/projects/259786&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;my bed project&lt;/a&gt; where I simply did not have enough wood to create the angled posts for the headboard - either using half laps or by cutting them from a larger monolithic piece. My solution was to basically cut a tiny wedge out and miter the two post/leg pieces together. The joint is reinforced internally with biscuits, and externally with a 1/2&quot; thick butterfly key on the &quot;knee&quot; of the joint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2017-10-02T11:20:15.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="425" CreationDate="2017-10-02T15:09:48.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can you think of a way that does not involve powertools?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Plough Plane?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One hand tool not mentioned in other answers so far is the plough plane (or combination plane), another would be the kerfing plane&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J5LLc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J5LLc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Source - Veritas&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A plough plane is well suited to making a slot or groove in the narrow edges of a board (router planes are mostly used on the broader surfaces of a board)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course the slot is continuous and this might be undesirable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you could go the whole way and dispense with the biscuits. Many plough planes included cutters for making tongue and groove joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L2y1x.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L2y1x.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Source - Veritas&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine using these tools on a mitred edge would be challenging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is feasible to make a plough plane using a chunk of wood (pine etc) and a chisel - I made one following the Youtube videos of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yTuOtmlRhAI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Paul Sellers&lt;/a&gt;. This gives you the opportunity to create a tool that matches a specific purpose (e.g. cutting a slot in a mitred edge)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Chisel&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course if you are not afraid of hard work (i.e. you only have a few to do) you can make what are effectively shallow mortices using a chisel in the traditional way.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="158" LastEditorUserId="158" LastEditDate="2017-10-02T15:30:48.737" LastActivityDate="2017-10-02T15:30:48.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3432" CreationDate="2017-10-02T16:00:29.280" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are also copper coloured metal drill bits that are more suitable for metals, then there are darker metal drill bits that you use for walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4249" LastActivityDate="2017-10-02T16:00:29.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6514" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-04T12:07:17.703" Score="3" ViewCount="658" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the process of setting up my first &lt;em&gt;kanna&lt;/em&gt;. I'm facing two problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The blade is wider than the mouth, it overlaps the &lt;em&gt;mimi&lt;/em&gt; and chips get stuck there (see picture). What is the correct way to remedy this? I would like to avoid grinding the blade to make it narrower.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U5LQ7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U5LQ7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;em&gt;osae-bō&lt;/em&gt; is bending when I hammer the chip-breaker to its proper position. I assume this is problematic. How shall I proceed? Do I need to file down or bend the &lt;em&gt;mimi&lt;/em&gt; of the chip-breaker?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jj3yR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jj3yR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4258" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2017-10-13T03:26:35.073" LastActivityDate="2017-10-13T03:26:35.073" Title="Kanna setup: blade/mouth width, osae-bo bending" Tags="|hand-tools|plane|tool-modification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6514" CreationDate="2017-10-04T16:31:34.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the mouth just has to be opened up. this looks like a manufacturing defect. Chiseling is probably the fastest way, but you can use files or floats.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;that cross pin is too thin. It's not necessarily a problem, however, if (1) the blade remains fixed in position as desired and (2) shavings don't get stuck under the chip breaker.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2017-10-04T16:31:34.213" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6516" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6519" CreationDate="2017-10-04T19:55:38.460" Score="0" ViewCount="1763" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to be building some shutters for one of our windows and because of its location, planned on using polyurethane glue, specifically Dap Polyurethane Construction Adhesive. Each shutter will be made of four five-inch boards, dowelled and glued together. They will be clamped in two dimensions, one to compress the individual boards together and the other to keep the shutter flat. Each of the shutters is 76½ inches long and twenty inches wide.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Once the glue is applied to the boards, dowels, and holes, the clamping process will probably take several minutes. How much time do I have to get everything together before the glues is too dry?&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;b&gt;Edit:&lt;/b&gt; I am planning on using five clamps to hold the boards together and two to keep the whole thing flat.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;b&gt;Edit 2: &lt;/b&gt;The boards are pressure treated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4199" LastEditorUserId="4199" LastEditDate="2017-10-05T23:05:10.280" LastActivityDate="2017-10-05T23:05:10.280" Title="When working with polyurethane glue, how long does one have to clamp the components?" Tags="|glue|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6516" CreationDate="2017-10-05T14:26:51.577" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a more general answer, all glues will include directions/instructions which will specify the working/open time (how long you have to get everything aligned and clamped), the amount of time to remain clamped and a full cure time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These times are approximates as temperature and humidity can play a role in the overall time, so assume the times given are for average temperatures and humidity values.  Usually warmer temperatures mean faster cure times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should pick a glue that has appropriate times for your specific project needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2017-10-05T14:26:51.577" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6514" CreationDate="2017-10-05T19:24:06.377" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Most kanna irons that I have seen have their own mimi formed by grinding off the corners so the cutting edge is the same width as the mouth. As it is now the iron is cutting a shaving that is wider than the throat. No wonder it chokes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I see a gap between the pin and the chipbreaker. The gap should be convex and not concave so the pin can exert an even pressure at its centre.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best source of information I have found is the Craftsmanship in Wood forum on Chris Hall's blog. Find it here &lt;a href=&quot;http://thecarpentryway.blogspot.ca/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://thecarpentryway.blogspot.ca/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some good beginner videos by sumokun on youtube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck,&#xA;John&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4261" LastActivityDate="2017-10-05T19:24:06.377" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4498" CreationDate="2017-10-06T15:59:49.297" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I keep my good set of bench chisels, which are always razor sharp, in a leather roll. The problem I run into with keeping chisels in a roll is that if you want to put them in edge end first, they tend to cut right through the back of the roll in any material I've come across. What I did to solve it was to buy some craft clear plastic like I've linked below, and cut out pieces that fit in each roll slot. This way I can slide the chisel in by placing the edge on the plastic and the chisel will slide right in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001C26RFM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001C26RFM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4264" LastActivityDate="2017-10-06T15:59:49.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6523" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6524" CreationDate="2017-10-06T22:12:46.483" Score="7" ViewCount="3194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning a garage work bench, watching a lot of YouTube for inspiration. I have noticed a common theme - a lot of people sink their miter saw below bench level which I plan to do, but have seen people position the saw slap bang in the middle of the bench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope I'm missing something very obvious but given a finite width of workshop does that not limit the size of the timber you're cutting? Lets say the workshop is 4m wide, saw positioned at 2m you only ever end up with a max length of 2m?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do people position the saw in the middle why not at one end with a small overlap on the short side&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4266" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2018-10-30T05:02:38.947" LastActivityDate="2018-10-30T05:02:38.947" Title="Garage work bench compound miter saw position" Tags="|workbench|miter-saw|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6523" CreationDate="2017-10-06T23:33:12.463" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Putting the saw in the middle maximizes the size of the pieces you can create from your offcut.  Say you put the saw 1m from the end of your shop.  Now you've got a 4m board and you need to create 2m work pieces.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With your setup you are unable to fit the offcut between the blade and the wall. &#xA; You would have to cut a scrap 1m piece, then another scrap 1m piece and wind up with only 1 work piece from your board instead of two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2017-10-06T23:33:12.463" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6523" CreationDate="2017-10-07T12:09:57.607" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in a similar situation with a 14' (4,25m) wall.  I don't recommend setting up your miter saw in the middle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe it depends on your usual stock length.  For me, it's 8' (2,5m), so I have it that one side is 8' (2,5m) and the other is the left over.  This way, I can just cut a few inches from my 8' (2,5m) stock.  Which I do frequently to start with a straight edge or to remove a cracked end.  With the &quot;in the middle setup&quot;, I wouldn't be able to do it.  I would need to cut a longer piece right away and then cut the other edge; which is two measures instead of one for a single piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be honest, I wouldn't buy a 14' stock to cut it in two.  I would buy two 8' (2,5m). It's cheaper.  If it's some atypical stock (8'+ hardwood), I would just use the two measures strategy (with a single piece or more), but that's not my every day scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been setup this way for 2 years and I'm pretty happy with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastActivityDate="2017-10-07T12:09:57.607" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6523" CreationDate="2017-10-08T13:47:05.533" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why do people position the saw in the middle why not at one end with a small overlap on the short side? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of the reason people put the saw in the middle is so that they can cut miters from both sides of the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a piece of molding, it's very hard and inaccurate to cut both miters from the same side, since that requires flipping the piece over to rest on the non-flat face when cutting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you only use the miter saw for 90-degree cuts, there's no real reason you can't bias it to one side of a bench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2017-10-08T13:47:05.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1986" CreationDate="2017-10-08T23:08:42.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short F-clamps are lightweight and easy to handle.  Parallel jaw clamps are simply more awkward due to weight and bar length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4267" LastActivityDate="2017-10-08T23:08:42.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6502" CreationDate="2017-10-12T00:57:10.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not the screws; your pilot holes and clearance holes were not big enough. Brass is only about 50 % the strength of steel and things like steel deck screws are even stronger as they are heat-treated. Brass ( yellow) is normally 60:40 or 70:30 ( sometimes with 1% tin) ; the strength is more a function of cold work than alloy- your problem has nothing to do with alloy.( On checking I found alloys from 95 Cu: 5 Zn ,to 60 Cu : 40 Zn) Many fasteners have rolled threads which cold works to higher strength .BUT the tapered threads of a wood screw don't work with rolling. Brass screws are( typically) made by cutting cold drawn bar. But cold drawing hardens the surface more than the core, so you cut off the hardest material. If you cold head then cut threads you have a stronger head but the same low thread strength.(The tensile strength of brasses can be from 40 ksi to 80 ksi depending on if it annealed or fully cold worked . Ordinary cold rolled steel would be roughly 80 ksi ) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3966" LastEditorUserId="3966" LastEditDate="2017-10-12T02:06:14.227" LastActivityDate="2017-10-12T02:06:14.227" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6529" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-12T10:03:36.823" Score="8" ViewCount="2278" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to install a proper dust extraction kit in my workshop. I've been wheeling my dust extractor or vac around to each of the powertools but I've got some pipes, junctions and gates that I'm going to route around the shop to allow me to leave my extractor in the corner (before I move it to an external lean-to).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But occasionally —even in a small shop— a 1.5HP extractor isn't enough. It's possible I might want two lines open at once when routing or planing. That's going to cause some pretty sluggish air, even down at 2½&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But something occurred to me this morning. Why can't I just &lt;em&gt;add&lt;/em&gt; my vac to the line? I could easily spur in a t-juction at the same end as my extractor. I could even add another extractor one day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, &lt;strong&gt;can you gang up multiple vacuums in parallel?&lt;/strong&gt; My vac and extractor have completely opposite airflow profiles so do I have to consider CFMs and static pressures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And for the sake of thinking this through, what about putting the two suction devices at opposite ends? Without any real thought, I think that'd just cause a big blockage in the middle but maybe the different profiles mean it'd actually work much better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3990" LastActivityDate="2017-10-17T13:46:35.567" Title="Can I put more than one extractor on a dust collection system?" Tags="|dust-collection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6502" CreationDate="2017-10-12T14:53:14.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you are using them too roughly.  As &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/users/2931/sassafras1232&quot;&gt;SaSSafraS1232&lt;/a&gt; said in a comment, you should always screw in a steel screw of the same size and shape first (but it can be a Posidrive/Torx rather than slot head), and then drive in the brass screw &lt;em&gt;by hand&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The steel screw can obviously be machine driven)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1646" LastActivityDate="2017-10-12T14:53:14.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6532" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6534" CreationDate="2017-10-15T15:43:36.920" Score="5" ViewCount="2625" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old bit brace that I would like to restore as much as possible. But the handle is &quot;badly injured&quot;. As shown in the picture, it has diminished over time through hard use and it has  a long crack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cUQHn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cUQHn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;injuredbrace&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The handle seems to be holding fine for now because of the &quot;old tool, good quality materials&quot; thing; but I would like to use it and I get the feeling that it will inevitably break after a little hard use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to change the handle and how? How did they put the handle there in the first place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4257" LastActivityDate="2017-10-16T01:06:55.080" Title="How can a bit brace handle be replaced?" Tags="|hand-tools|restoration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6533" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-15T18:54:13.177" Score="1" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may seem like a strange question. Basically, I have some few click laminate floorings present with me and I would like to make a ping pong table from those leftovers.&#xA;I was following &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Upcycling-click-laminate-to-a-tabletennis-table-1/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; tutorial. &#xA;I would like to hinge the two halves of the ping pong table. So my question is, can the laminate hold the hinge and can it be folded into two ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4280" LastActivityDate="2017-10-15T18:54:13.177" Title="Can I attach a hinge to click laminate flooring?" Tags="|wood|mdf|hinges|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6532" CreationDate="2017-10-16T01:06:55.080" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it possible to change the handle and how? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can replace the handle. But there's a decent chance you can repair the existing one strongly enough that the repair will last for many years if you'd prefer to do that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;New handle&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This doesn't require a lathe but obviously if you want the new handle to be round then it would be the most efficient way of forming a replacement. A turned handle can also be formed using a drill as a rudimentary lathe. But a perfectly round handle can be shaped entirely by hand processes, using some combination of plane, spokeshave and rasp/file work, followed by scraping and/or sanding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The handle doesn't have to be round&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of whether the handle is turned or hand-shaped it has to eventually be two pieces so that it can be glued around the shaft. Generally you want to start with a single piece of wood, although it's not mandatory it gives you nearly contiguous grain. The handle can be fully shaped and then carefully split, or roughed into a blank, sawn in two and then the two pieces temporarily joined together&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; before shaping is completed. Obviously the second method can be used if two separate pieces are used for whatever reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fix the existing handle&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Because the break looks old, and is anyway on something that sees regular hand contact it's not as straightforward as dribbling a little glue into the crack and clamping it closed — for a start because only fresh wood surfaces glue reliably. But add in any contamination from oils from the hands plus shed skin cells, or really any sort of dirt, and those will prevent any adhesive from getting a solid purchase on the wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's an additional possible complication, cracks like this sometimes aren't fully closable. Through a combination of factors the wood may have shrunk to the point that the inside diameter is now too small to close on the shaft of the handle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for this reason stabilising the crack by filling it may be the best route. I haven't done this myself on the sweep handle of a brace but a friend did such a repair recently so I've seen one in the flesh and it worked perfectly. It is early days yet (especially given the multi-generation lifespan of such a tool) but some months on it is holding up nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First step in either case is to clean the interior surfaces of the crack starting with gentle scraping of any obvious gunk, using a dental pick maybe, followed by thorough solvent cleaning. I'd start with mineral spirits (UK: white spirit) and then use either denatured alcohol (UK: meths) or acetone. You can scrub with any stiff-bristled brush but one of the best tools for this sort of thing is a toothbrush because the nylon bristles are particularly stiff. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; you can gauge how effective your cleaning has been by placing a drop of water anywhere along the split. If the water soaks straight into the wood you're good to go. If it beads up and soaks in slowly further cleaning would be advisable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now mix up some epoxy with sanding dust to a consistency somewhat like mayo, spread it over the crack (overfill slightly) and leave it to harden&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;. Then file, scrape or sand the fill flush with the wood. Follow this by scraping or sanding both handles as much as you care to and finally apply your finish of choice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously there's a chance the epoxy will stick the wood to the shaft but don't worry about that. My friend managed to carefully work some wax into the gap without getting it on the crack in the wood, but there's no need to go to the trouble. For a start on an old brace the metal is probably pretty filthy to begin with, making a good bond highly unlikely ^_^ But if by chance it does stick firmly enough that the handle won't spin heating the metal using a heat gun or hairdryer is sufficient to cause epoxy's grip to weaken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How did they put the handle there in the first place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wondered the same thing and it's something that has perplexed many a brace owner! The answer is very simple once you know it — the wooden handle was slid into place before the brace was fully bent to shape. From what I've read generally the first bend (near the chuck) was done first, the handle slid into position and then the top bends done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;You could go with hexagonal or octagonal if you wanted to try those out. Either cross-section could be further refined to round if you find you don't like how the polygonal handle feels in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;Traditionally this was often done using a 'paper joint' which works just as well today as it always has, but these days superglue and tape is an option, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2752/how-do-i-temporarily-attach-two-pieces-of-wood-together-for-machining/2757#2757&quot;&gt;How do I temporarily attach two pieces of wood together for machining?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;It is best to wait for it to fully cure before proceeding. Even with 5-minute epoxy I wait 2-3 hours minimum even in the summer, but try to forget about it so it's at least half a day before I get back to it. With 1-hour epoxy I would wait at least six hours for it to set, overnight preferably. In case you don't know epoxy hardens via a chemical reaction and like all reactions it is temperature-sensitive, so in colder weather you need to wait longer than when it's warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-10-16T01:06:55.080" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6529" CreationDate="2017-10-16T13:49:30.773" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same thought when I was setting up my system (since I have two units). I did quite a bit of research and came to the conclusion that using two units in parallel is not a good idea. The two units will be working against each other and it could end up damaging one or both of the systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be better to setup the second unit on a separate &quot;circuit&quot; of pipes. This way, you limit the length of pipes that each system is pulling from and therefore increase the effectiveness of each unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2867" LastActivityDate="2017-10-16T13:49:30.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1932" CreationDate="2017-10-16T23:11:27.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a couple of examples of manufacturer terminology to present, which frankly only serve to reinforce the idea that these terms have had their meaning folded, spindled and mutilated by various marketing departments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least in the late 1960s, Black &amp;amp; Decker was calling this thing a jigsaw:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T1H34.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T1H34.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Black &amp;amp; Decker Jigsaw late 1960s&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More recently we have a Craftsman Sabre saw:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oHn78.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oHn78.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Craftsman Sabre saw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a Sears Craftsman Auto Scroller saw:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ISAHQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ISAHQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4286" LastActivityDate="2017-10-16T23:11:27.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6529" CreationDate="2017-10-17T09:38:41.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tee'd my van into my extractor line (before the cyclone separator) and made the following &lt;em&gt;casual&lt;/em&gt; observations without any data or :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It &lt;strong&gt;did&lt;/strong&gt; appear to demonstrate some additional suction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This combined suction did not feel as effective as the two vacuums separately.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both vacuums were running noisier (working harder), as if you'd suffered a small blockage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the last point alone, making this the default installation does not seem like a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It turns out this is something &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SoHKfhzuDmU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stumpy Nubs covered in a video&lt;/a&gt; as part of their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stumpynubs.com/dust.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dust collection series&lt;/a&gt;. From what I can tell from the video, its comments and other random sources since I've been looking into this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Parallel is a bad idea. If you can lower the resistance (a much larger shared pipe) you can certainly double the CFM but any pressure is equalised, split between both the pipe and opposing impeller/motor. More load, slower overall CFM, less efficacy. Boo.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Series seems to be the only way forward here. I'm not 100% up on my fluid dynamics but as impellers aren't sealed pumps, you can suck air &lt;em&gt;through&lt;/em&gt; them, as well as letting them operate. Obviously you'll have to spin faster and most impeller motors are balanced against the load, not an arbitrary spin speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;∴ If you can keep spinning [faster] you can push more air along.  But that uses more power.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;∴ You need to &lt;em&gt;limit&lt;/em&gt; flow to limit spin speed to limit motor energy consumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can do all that, you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; gang up two blowers to improve CFM and pressure. But note this will also change the behaviour of things like cyclone separators so your dinky-little knock-off probably won't work.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;But&lt;/em&gt; before you stick your nozzle in your impeller, &lt;strong&gt;Stumpy's video assumes identical blowers&lt;/strong&gt;. Identical impellers, motors, CFMs, pressures. Series-ganging a high-pressure vac behind a high-CFM just won't work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The little motor cannot keep up with the baseline CFM from the extractor, let alone add to it. And the hose size on the shop vac makes the opposite impossible too. The extractor won't work faster at that pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it looks like my dream to build a 15hp black-hole extractor system out of junk motors is in tatters. I'll probably settle for moving the extractor out of the same air space and keeping the vac around as a secondary option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3990" LastEditorUserId="3990" LastEditDate="2017-10-17T13:46:35.567" LastActivityDate="2017-10-17T13:46:35.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6538" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6539" CreationDate="2017-10-18T14:00:26.413" Score="1" ViewCount="614" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a T track router bit that is meant to create a path for 1/4&quot; hex bolts in wood. Its a really nice feature to have for DIY projects, but occasionally, the hex bolt rotates and causes friction when moving. I know that some people use toilet bolts (Although, I'm not sure where they get them, or if there is a significant price difference, or their TPI for that matter) What are the differences between toilet bolts and how they interact in a T track? Do toilet bolts typically slide better? Are they harder to get in different sizes? What are some differences between them? Are there other kinds of bolts usually used in T tracks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3800" LastActivityDate="2017-10-18T14:53:20.667" Title="Differences Between Bolts Used in T Track?" Tags="|technique|router|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6538" CreationDate="2017-10-18T14:53:20.667" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are available at most any hardware or home improvement store.  Since the head is oblong, it cannot twist inside a T-Track.  Other than that, they are really no different that any other bolts.  Woodworking stores offer specific TTrack bolts which are pretty much the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also try carriage bolts.  Generally, you shouldn't have problems with regular hex bolts unless you are really over tightening them, or they are undersized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t56Oy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t56Oy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2017-10-18T14:53:20.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6540" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6542" CreationDate="2017-10-18T17:03:34.330" Score="2" ViewCount="629" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am replacing the meeting rail on some wood windows due to damage. I need to make a a roughly 36&quot; strip that is this cross-section: &lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/soFH8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/soFH8.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I safely cut this on a right-tilting table?  It's also important to keep the angle consistent since it interfaces with a meeting face. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My initial idea is to make the cut using 3/4&quot; stock using a thin push-stick. But, this seems potentially dangerous with the blade tilting towards the fence. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2ujU4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2ujU4.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3681" LastActivityDate="2017-10-18T17:38:29.580" Title="How can I safely cut this thin stock with a small angle on a right tilting table saw?" Tags="|table-saw|safety|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6540" CreationDate="2017-10-18T17:16:46.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could hot glue a straight piece of stock onto the part that will be cut. Then it will be extended from the fence and you can safely use a push stick on that extension part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, a jig that holds the part such that you can use a De-Sta-Co type clamp to hold it down and then you push on the jig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mostly use a thin, but tall, push stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2444" LastActivityDate="2017-10-18T17:16:46.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6540" CreationDate="2017-10-18T17:29:25.740" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cut the bevel on a wide board, then set the fence to 3/4 and rip off the work piece with a straight blade.  Hold the large offcut when making the cut.  Flip the work piece so the wide edge is up and referencing off the middle of the fence, not sliding under it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a piece of stock much longer than you need, stop your cut when you are past the length you need but well before the end of your stock.  (Turn off the saw and wait for the blade to spin down.  Don't try to back it out.)  Then crosscut the piece you need off of the extra long stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Determine your cut distance for the work piece on the left of the blade (use a temporary stop-block), then slide the fence against the large offcut on the right of the blade.  Make the cut holding the offcut against the fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2017-10-18T17:38:29.580" LastActivityDate="2017-10-18T17:38:29.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2011" CreationDate="2017-10-20T21:30:13.197" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trapping the cut off between the blade and fence is another way to get a climbing cut. Wanted a width that matched another piece, took the original and set it against the blade, move the fence against that, &lt;em&gt;locked it down&lt;/em&gt; and put new stock in and proceeded to cut away. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As soon as I pushed the wood past the cutting surface, the &lt;em&gt;back&lt;/em&gt; part of the blade catches the piece - which is now a climbing cut - and promptly turned the stock into a missile. Had a bruised chest for a couple of weeks and I've never trapped another piece of wood since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Climbing cuts are bad and I don't think there is ever a reason to use one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2444" LastActivityDate="2017-10-20T21:30:13.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6544" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-21T04:51:52.270" Score="0" ViewCount="376" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to use a 1/16 router bit to cut through a 1/2&quot; piece of MDF. Is there a bit with a long enough shank that will allow me to do that or what are my options? I am curing small letters with a cnc machine and the 1/8&quot; bit is too large and distorts the letters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4306" LastActivityDate="2017-10-22T00:14:48.267" Title="1/16 bit to cut through 1/2&quot; MDF" Tags="|wood|drill-bits|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6545" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-21T20:03:08.640" Score="0" ViewCount="317" Body="&lt;p&gt;We replaced an old fence and can't tell if this wood has been treated or not. Pressure washed a couple of pieces to get the old grime off. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zGEx4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zGEx4.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4309" LastActivityDate="2017-11-02T04:25:15.403" Title="Help identifying old fence wood" Tags="|pressure-treated|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2017-11-02T04:36:50.733" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6544" CreationDate="2017-10-22T00:14:48.267" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good luck not snapping the bit, which is the practical reason such bits are hard to find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1/4&quot; cutting length might allow (with proper registration) cutting from both sides (have to mirror the cutting file when flipped, of course.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking (as I usually do, since supply is much better) for end mills, &lt;strong&gt;1/16&quot; end mill extra long&lt;/strong&gt; brings up several options, including 1/2, 5/8. 3/4 and 0.95 inch cutting lengths. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1/16&quot; router bit extra long&lt;/strong&gt; does get some useful hits as well, including some with 1 or even 1.5 inch cutting length, but those (at least the ones I looked at) are pointy cones, not straight bits - if your software understands the shape, you'll break fewer bits, but still be able to detail the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I recall we are still not a shopping site, so I'll provide keywords but not links to products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case, &lt;strong&gt;wear your safety glasses&lt;/strong&gt; and expect to break some bits, or change the design/process to cut with a larger bit, or a laser, or something better suited - long skinny router bits (and endmills) do break in real life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making the small letters out of thinner material would be an obvious alteration towards success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3334" LastActivityDate="2017-10-22T00:14:48.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6547" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-22T19:53:49.783" Score="0" ViewCount="5261" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a porch swing out of leftover lumber. It is intended to hang in a covered porch. Some of the lumber is not pressure treated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that okay for outdoor under porch as long as I stain and seal with spar varnish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4310" LastEditorUserId="8085" LastEditDate="2020-02-02T16:56:07.073" LastActivityDate="2020-02-02T16:56:07.073" Title="Pressure treated vs stain and varnish" Tags="|staining|varnish|pressure-treated|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6547" CreationDate="2017-10-23T14:27:41.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For lumber to rot you need (long term) moisture. So under your porch you normally don't even need to varnish it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3604" LastActivityDate="2017-10-23T14:27:41.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6549" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-23T14:45:02.213" Score="2" ViewCount="12238" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you apply wipe-on poly over a varnished surface without stripping the varnish off? I have kitchen cabinets that were finished with varnish 3 years ago and would like to put a more durable finish like Minwax wipe-on poly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4316" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2017-10-25T06:36:52.070" LastActivityDate="2018-01-23T08:15:47.320" Title="Can you apply wipe-on poly over a varnish?" Tags="|refinishing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6551" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-23T15:22:01.543" Score="1" ViewCount="90" Body="&lt;p&gt;Region: West Bengal; India.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am getting a wooden cabinet built by our local furniture guy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;System: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;UPS;Weight 4.7 kg/10.3617 pounds(as per brochure).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Micro ATX slim case; Weight 10 kg/22 pounds(did an average from the internet; including all components).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plan:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;UPS below, and PC case above, in separate cabinets. width of UPS cabinet 220 mm. Width of PC cabinet 110 mm. Depth of both compartments 500 mm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;UPS at a height of at least 250 mm from the floor, so that the furniture can be pulled back and forth while the UPS is plugged to the power socket.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Caster wheels at the base and brass handles in front and back(for pulling around over tiles, within the apartment room).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Separate compartment for external ODD.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drawers below UPS.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much thickness should the weight bearing boards be?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you recommend any particular wood?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any particular wheels.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4317" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2017-10-30T19:02:02.720" LastActivityDate="2017-10-30T19:02:02.720" Title="Wooden cabinet for Personal Computer UPS and Micro ATX slim tower" Tags="|furniture|cabinetry|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6549" CreationDate="2017-10-23T16:07:58.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately &quot;varnish&quot; does not define a specific product.  It is generally a drying oil combined with some sort of film coat, but there are hundreds of things it could be.  Some of these would bond well to polyurethane (the varnish could actually be oil + poly) and some may not.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to know for sure is to do a test in an inconspicuous area.  Even then, problems might not show up for years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can increase your chances of getting a good bond by using a coat of shellac, which is known to bond well to almost all finishes, before you apply your poly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, realistically if your cabinets were made in the last 30 years the varnish is probably poly-based.  I'd say you have a better than 50/50 chance of success just applying poly (after a thorough de-greasing and scuff sanding - kitchen cabinets are notorious for getting cooking grease on them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2017-10-23T16:07:58.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6547" CreationDate="2017-10-23T17:41:48.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would be more concerned about using PT wood that comes in contact with skin or even clothes. Pressure treated means pressure treated with chemicals. CCA or chromated copper arsenate has been replaced by copper-based pesticides, but chemical it still is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't need it for it's water/bug decay properties, don't use PT wood. Under your porch, you can use framing lumber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2444" LastActivityDate="2017-10-23T17:41:48.687" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6555" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-23T19:54:48.843" Score="8" ViewCount="10108" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a box for a sewing machine. I can make dovetails or more likely simple box joints for the four vertical corners, but what's a good sturdy design for fitting a bottom so the weight of the contents doesn't mean it stays behind when you pick it up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm considering routing a rebate around all four sides, so the bottom fits in. It'll probably just be glued in. It'll leave a very shallow &quot;cavity&quot; under the box but that's no problem. I'm not sure how far up from the bottom edges of the sides the rebate should be, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3516" LastActivityDate="2017-10-26T13:30:21.777" Title="Strong method for bottom of a box" Tags="|strength|boxes|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6555" CreationDate="2017-10-23T20:35:28.780" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the most sturdy way to put a bottom in a box is to capture it with grooves on the sides.  With a rabbet the glue joint is holding the bottom on, while in a groove the structure of the wood itself is holding the bottom in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For added strength I would make the bottom out of plywood (so it doesn't change size) and glue it into the grooves.  This will prevent the bottom from sagging and then pulling out of the grooves.  (Note that this is assuming the grain of the sides is running horizontally around the box, not vertically.  This is how you would need to build for the dovetail or box joints you mentioned.  If your grain runs vertically you cannot glue the bottom in place because you will have movement issues.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2017-10-24T20:22:37.530" LastActivityDate="2017-10-24T20:22:37.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6549" CreationDate="2017-10-23T20:46:29.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: yes, you can apply wipe-on over previous varnish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether it'll work well in this specific case nobody can say, you'll have to try it and see. But following the basic prep guidelines it'll usually work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It isn't as simple as just wiping on the Minwax product over the existing varnish. In addition to something that's probably obvious, cleaning the surface well beforehand, you must provide a texture for the new varnish to cling to. What this means in practice is washing down every surface you intend to recoat and then lightly sanding or scuffing them — be very thorough doing this and try not to miss any spots even in hard-to-reach areas. But also be careful you don't sand through along edges and particularly at corners. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;clean thoroughly;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wait until dry;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;scuff or sand thoroughly but carefully;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wipe away every trace of sanding dust;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;apply wiping varnish&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wait for the wiping varnish to get good and hard before the cabinets see much use, perhaps a full week if you can manage it&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Note that it doesn't have to be applied by wiping, you can use a brush or roller if you want although you will probably still want to wipe away some or most of the excess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Full hardness won't be achieved for approminately a month.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-10-23T20:46:29.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6555" CreationDate="2017-10-23T23:41:57.297" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wood glues (PVA) are fairly strong in tension (pulling apart) but weaker in shear, (sliding surfaces in opposite directions.  Although a rabbet joint should be strong enough, I like belts and suspenders when possible.  I would recommend creating a dado offset to use the wood shear strength in addition to the glue.  Locate the dado approx. 1/2&quot; from the edge so that the wood shear strength can be used in addition to the glue strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2017-10-23T23:41:57.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6555" CreationDate="2017-10-24T14:05:40.930" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your making a box to hold a sewing machine? They are pretty heavy items. I don't think a rebate would be sufficient enough. If you have 3/4 material, then the groove is usually 3/8 deep - more then sufficient for most needs, but a sewing machine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would go with a dado for aesthetics &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; just glue and screw the bottom panel on. If you're using solid wood (not so much plywood), you will get a lot of long grain glue surface and with the addition of some mechanical fasteners, your box will certainly be sturdy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add some nice looking box corner protectors and you're laughing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zA0qB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zA0qB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Corner Protector&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2444" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2017-10-24T20:40:37.760" LastActivityDate="2017-10-24T20:40:37.760" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6561" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-24T19:21:27.990" Score="1" ViewCount="55" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm striping an old headboard for a bead frame with the intention of re-staining it.  As I am working I noticed that the consistency and color of the stuff I'm stripping from the large flat surfaces is different from that of the the stuff coming off of the curved embellishments and details.  Also the wood looks much different there too.  I'm pretty sure there is some kind of facing of nicer looking wood on the large surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is: I this paint under the stain?  If it's not paint what is it?  When I go to stain it again how should I go about getting a nice looking result as there was before?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4320" LastActivityDate="2017-10-24T19:21:27.990" Title="Was there paint under the stain I stripped off?" Tags="|staining|refinishing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6562" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6636" CreationDate="2017-10-25T09:53:57.537" Score="1" ViewCount="2456" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently looked up some info on PVA wood glue and found the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.constructionchemicals.co.uk/blog/2015/07/13/what-are-d1-d2-d3-d4-adhesives/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.constructionchemicals.co.uk/blog/2015/07/13/what-are-d1-d2-d3-d4-adhesives/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These gradings are part of the European standard BS EN 204 governing the classification of wood glues for non-structural applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 4 main types of durability grading, running from D1 to D4. The differences between these are listed below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;D1 = Interior areas, where the temperature only occasionally exceeds 50°C for a short time and the moisture content of the wood is 15% maximum&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;D2 = Interior areas, with occasional short term exposure to running or condensed water and/or to occasional high humidity, provided the moisture content of the wood does not exceed 18%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;D3 = Interior areas, with frequent short-term exposure to running or condensed water and/or heavy exposure to high humidity. Exterior areas not exposed to weather&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;D4 = Interior areas with frequent long-term exposure to running or condensed water. Exterior areas exposed to weather&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(BS EN 204 is a British/European standard.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: For painted exterior joinery (hardwood, with microporous water-based &amp;quot;breathable&amp;quot; paint), exposed to weather (windows and doors etc.) would D3 be acceptable, or must D4 classification be used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it says that D4 must be used if exposed to weather, but presumably the paint protects the glue such that it is not directly exposed? On the other hand, the paint is breathable and so technically the glue joints ARE exposed to humidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2017-11-10T10:41:40.207" Title="PVA wood glue grades and usage" Tags="|joinery|glue|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6562" CreationDate="2017-10-25T13:39:01.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I use Tite-bond glue product and they have three grades (it is also PVA glue, like your talking) original, water-resistant, and water-proof. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being that your paint is breathable I would think moisture will get to the wood. Original would not be your wise choice. I use water-resistant in all my projects, even if they have nothing to do with any moisture, besides the fact that some projects have polyurethane over them as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But being breathable paint, I feel that water will get down into the wood, and could stick around for a while, because the moisture has to travel back out of the paint. I could see water-resistant not holding up. Not saying it would last, but I don't think its worth using. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your case, I feel that using water-proof would be the best bet. Simply because it should last the longest. On the bottle, even though it is water-proof, does list that it should not be submerged in water for LONG periods of time. Obviously, this is not the case but wanted to say that because it does suggest this will, at some point, wear out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simple answer from me, Water-proof glue. My opinion, it is the safe bet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2017-10-25T13:39:01.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6564" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6579" CreationDate="2017-10-25T13:46:30.953" Score="2" ViewCount="340" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the winter is coming, we're planning with my wife to build a simple, indoor climbing frame for our small children and ourselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We're also thinking of doing it ourselves as we can't afford to pay a lot for someone to do it for us. I'm not a wood working pro by any means, but I have and am reasonably comfortable with jigsaw, drill, sander, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've been doing some research and thinking, and I think we have a reasonable design which should be 1) easy to build, 2) low cost, 3) stable enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As context, our house is a timber frame building where all internal walls and ceilings are made of plasterboard, so anchoring is out of question, but we do plan to at least secure the frame to the walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without further ado, here are our current sketches:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FK9kZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FK9kZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo sketch&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zm8EE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zm8EE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hand drawn sketch with sizes&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the idea is to have 4 vertical poles in the 4 corners and 4 support beams in a rectangular shape on the top. The rope ladder and climbing net will be suspended from the top beams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I don't think I'd be able to do some proper wood joints, I was searching around and found some three way metal connectors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WuSEd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Three way metal connector&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.allsteelshedframes.com/steeltimberconnectors.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.allsteelshedframes.com/steeltimberconnectors.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the idea with these is that the beams would slot in, but the whole frame would be height adjustable as the pole bit has holes on both ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My first question would be, how are these called?&lt;/strong&gt; I only found this US based site, but I'd like to buy them in the UK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the timber, I was thinking of getting 75mm*75mm poles in 2.4m length, like these for example: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-x-3-75mm-Pressure-Treated-Timber-Wooden-Gate-Fence-Post-1-8m-2-4m-6ft-8ft-/151978589963?var=&amp;amp;hash=item2362a13f0b:m:mT27JK_Z9k8n_Z_wD0EmnTg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-x-3-75mm-Pressure-Treated-Timber-Wooden-Gate-Fence-Post-1-8m-2-4m-6ft-8ft-/151978589963?var=&amp;amp;hash=item2362a13f0b:m:mT27JK_Z9k8n_Z_wD0EmnTg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So the second questions is, would this construction be solid enough to hold a light adult (I'm ~70kg)?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for any comments / help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4321" LastActivityDate="2017-10-30T07:01:16.833" Title="Questions around designing and building an indoor climbing frame" Tags="|technique|joinery|safety|design|timberframe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6565" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-25T14:24:13.920" Score="8" ViewCount="220" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is getting cold here in Wisconsin, winter is coming. I have always taken in my battery tools. Because most people should know that lithium and freezing temps, do not mix very well. But what about my other corded tools? Do I need to bring those inside. keep in mind, at this time I don't own my own place, only 17, so I am out in the shed, and there is no heat and open building (we have one cow on the other side). I am wondering if the freezing temp will screw up any bearing or, anything. Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quick edit: We no longer have the cow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="2073" LastEditDate="2018-02-17T00:33:44.900" LastActivityDate="2018-05-04T06:35:29.217" Title="Winter and my tools" Tags="|power-tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6562" CreationDate="2017-10-25T16:26:25.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The standard pretty much says it in plain English, D4 should be your only thought here if you go with PVA. There's no advantage in skimping a bit to save just a little money for a glue that &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; do you when you can can go with a glue that is purpose-made for the application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;PVAs are not the only option though&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Polyurethanes, urea-formaldehyde (e.g. Cascamite) and epoxy are all viable alternatives. Any of the three will tend to be more expensive than even the pricier PVAs, but they are worth considering if some aspect of their working characteristics&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; or performance&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; might be useful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Longer open time (sometimes &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; longer, an hour or more if necessary), no 'grab', lower working temperature etc.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Any joint subjected to continuous heavy loading shouldn't be glued with PVA. Ditto if the glue needs to fill any gaps PVA is a very poor choice (as is the common moisture-curing polyurethane glue because although it foams up the foam has no strength).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-10-25T16:26:25.530" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="573" CreationDate="2017-10-26T01:02:49.637" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lack of tackiness was my diagnostic determinant on my first project using tung oil (presumably the real stuff - a quart-sized container from Rockler that cost $25, I think - so it was at least expensive enough to be the real thing).  I was finishing a microwave cart for my parents' kitchen after applying two coats of Minwax oil-based wood stain.  Following the instructions on the container, I started with a 50/50 mix of tung oil/mineral spirits and then applied two thin coats full-strength (and maybe a third coat on just the top), wiping off the excess after 15 minutes.  One day between coats might have been sufficient (according to the bottle) but I waited 2 days after some online research, and it didn't say to sand between coats but I may have done this as well.  The cart turned out beautifully with a lovely, rich color, slight sheen and silky-smooth, non-tacky surface.  It also had some extra curing time before we were able to transport it to my parents' house.  This was over Christmas/New Year's of 2010 and to my knowledge it's never needed re-coating - although the microwave just sits on top so it doesn't get a lot of heavy use apart from drawers being opened and closed.  I've been hooked ever since and will never go back to polyurethane if I can help it.                                                  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4322" LastActivityDate="2017-10-26T01:02:49.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6568" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-26T04:23:17.137" Score="2" ViewCount="1352" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually apply raw coconut oil to my wooden stuff once a year. I do this because I want to keep things as natural as possible: I like the original color of wood and I dislike varnishes and finishes that contain ingredients I do not understand how they are processed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to try a finish based on beeswax and oil (either coconut, olive or canola oil). Unfortunately where I live, beeswax is hard to find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other day I came across a natural hair removal wax which contains only beeswax and natural resin (see photo below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6n2Ie.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6n2Ie.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;wax&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that neither oil nor beeswax will negatively affect the wood, but what about the natural resin in this wax?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the product label does not state what are the beeswax and natural resin proportions...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4257" LastActivityDate="2017-10-31T16:26:19.810" Title="Is natural resin + beeswax + oil suitable as a wood finish?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6569" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6575" CreationDate="2017-10-26T10:12:16.353" Score="1" ViewCount="1352" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the process of designing a canopy bed with a few kinky features. Most of them aren't too problematic, but I lack the knowledge about structure and weight support to calculate this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want a hook above the centre of the platform (~1,60x2,00 metres) that supports an adult suspended from it with ropes. We will assume that I cannot just place this hook in the ceiling (which is very likely to be true). We will also assume that the individuals suspended won't be heavier than say about 80 kilograms, although they might swing on the rope for a bit, which may cause additional stress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There will be solid bed posts at each corner of the bed, however I need to know what &quot;roof&quot; construction will allow me to support this kind of weight above the centre of the platform, both in terms of how and where to place the beams and approximate minimum requirements for the strength and type of the wood where it matters. I have some flexibility in the height of the posts, but not too much as the platform itself will be set fairly high up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4325" LastActivityDate="2017-10-28T20:20:24.557" Title="Canopy bed frame design supporting a suspended adult?" Tags="|furniture|design|weight-capacity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6555" CreationDate="2017-10-26T13:30:21.777" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As SaSSafraS1232 mentioned making a box for the purpose you stated is much like making a drawer.&#xA;1. Groove all sides, front and back of the box/drawer, then glue the sides to either the front or back piece than slip the bottom piece of plywood into the grooves, (no glue necessary) and glue on the other end. This captures the bottom completely.&#xA;2. If you wish to be able to someday replace the bottom, then make the back piece only as high as from the top of box to top of grooves so you can slide out the back for replacement. You can secure the bottom from slipping out with a couple of small nails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;General rules. A groove should be at least as deep as the bottom is thick and up to as deep as half the thickness of the sides. Allow 1/16&quot; for expansion of the bottom panel during humidity increases in the environment. Make the groove as far from the bottom of the sides and ends as the bottom panel is thick (minimum). Preferably as far from the bottom as half the thickness of the sides and ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using the box for the sewing contents, I would use a 1/4&quot; panel, if it is for the sewing machine, I would use 3/8&quot;. For my shop drawers, expecting up to 100lbs., I use 1/2&quot; plywood for bottom panels and 3/4&quot; for sides and ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To learn proper box and drawer making, there are some very good tutorials on Youtube. If you want to build a box style, search &quot;make a heavy duty box&quot;, if you want to build a usually more flexible and stronger drawers style, search &quot;make heavy duty shop drawers&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3668" LastActivityDate="2017-10-26T13:30:21.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1655" CreationDate="2017-10-26T13:59:18.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As noted, function determines method. Some general rules still apply:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For joinery, rabbets/rebates should be minimum half the thickness of the sides. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Staggered rabbet joints half the thickness of both pieces to be joined is typical.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grooves for bottom panels should be minimum the thickness of the bottom panel or even better the thickness of sides and bottoms.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you wish to make the bottom panel replaceable, allow 1/32&quot; all around to slide into groove and allow for a back end to have access to the groove, secure bottom panel from sliding with a couple small finish nails.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The more complex the joints (box, lock miters, drawer lock etc) - the more time and effort is required, but resulting in better strength, and durability as well as a sense of pride of accomplishment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3668" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2017-10-27T15:12:18.697" LastActivityDate="2017-10-27T15:12:18.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="50" CreationDate="2017-10-26T19:40:16.043" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest a paste wax finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4329" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2018-01-11T22:51:25.843" LastActivityDate="2018-01-11T22:51:25.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6569" CreationDate="2017-10-26T19:52:12.093" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you have described is a swingset with a mattress connected below.To design this hybrid fabrication you must first consider each function separately.  For the swing, consider the designs for children's swingsets: a beam at the top to support the swing's load and a triangular frame at each end to carry the beam.  The triangular frame shape is the simplest design to take into account the constantly changing force direction as the swing moves with vertical loads from the weight of the person in the swing transferred through the beam and horizontal loads as the person moves forwards and back.  The triangular shape provides a wide base to prevent the assembly from rotating from vertical (tipping over).  If you model your design after a swingset with comparable sizes and similar connections you can really swing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your bed frame will be similar in size and construction to any bed found in a furniture store.  With the basic design for each function set, you can then look to join them together and possibly combine some of the parts to serve for both functions using the larger/stronger part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would envision the swing positioned to swing side to side rather than head to toe with the bed.  That way you have easy access to the sides of the bed.  You could also then use the headboard and tailboard of the bed as part of the triangular swing frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-10-28T20:20:24.557" LastActivityDate="2017-10-28T20:20:24.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6362" CreationDate="2017-10-29T01:04:10.327" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since a sofa will almost surely be an indoor piece of furniture, completely protected from the weather, you are fine leaving it untreated. Every commercial sofa that I have seen the inside of is constructed of untreated wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4327" LastActivityDate="2017-10-29T01:04:10.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6577" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6582" CreationDate="2017-10-29T17:45:21.720" Score="4" ViewCount="367" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m remodeling a couple of rooms and coping the baseboard joints.  For the most it’s going well, especially after getting new blades for the coping saw!  The problem is the fireplace walls are not set at 90 degree angles, they are 122 degrees.  So, if I am going to cope the joint, how I calculate which angle to make the miter cut?  Is it as simple as 61 degrees, half of 122?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a miter cut is made, what is angle for back cut with coping saw?  For example, a 90 degree corner would be a 45 degree miter and then a back cut of just more than 90 degrees from the face of baseboard.  What would it be for at 122 degrees?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1356" LastActivityDate="2017-10-31T08:08:24.520" Title="Coping Saw Angles" Tags="|miter-joint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6578" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-30T01:30:53.790" Score="1" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;So with my old table saw the carbon brushes had worn out. Since the manufacture had no replacement brushes I ended up finding some new ones myself that were the exact same size. Also had to get new caps since I broke one of those. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A while later once I got the stuff I installed it and went to turn it on, ready for what ever was to happen. No blade was installed, of course. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon starting there was a high pitch sound. Like with a brushed drill, when you lightly pull the trigger. And quickly turned into a harsh grind sound, almost exactly like the time when the brushes were going bad. There was also a bright yellow light from underneath. I turned it off within 2-3 seconds from when I started it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now this was the first time I have ever replaced some carbon brushes. So is this supposed to happen? The only two things I can think of is 1) The new brushes are flat at the end, so maybe it is wearing it round since there is little contact in the motor or 2) Wrong grade of carbon brush, to soft or too hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I decided to run it and just let whatever happen. Only five seconds and tons of smoke came out. But I think it is because the carbon brushes are soft, not sure. I don't know what can be done at this point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="2073" LastEditDate="2017-10-31T14:26:20.473" LastActivityDate="2017-10-31T14:26:20.473" Title="New carbon brushes, got a problem" Tags="|tool-repair|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6564" CreationDate="2017-10-30T07:01:16.833" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have no idea what those connectors are called.  Your local metal fabricator will be able to knock some up though. I suspect a cheaper approach would be to bolt the horizontal beams to the vertical columns (but that won't work if this needs to be dismountable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your timber frame house will have timbers in the walls that you can anchor things to (although they may not be that &lt;em&gt;big&lt;/em&gt; timbers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My immediate reaction on seeing the sketch is that there is no shear strength.  The top will slip sideways until it bangs on the wall.  A couple of diagonal braces will make it much more stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The columns will probably be OK in 75mm (although I notice the link for the connectors is for 100mm timbers).  The columns won't buckle at that sort of length, but the beams are going to be &lt;em&gt;awfully&lt;/em&gt; bouncy.  The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sagulator&lt;/a&gt; says that a 75mm square beam of Douglas Fir with a 70kg point load in the middle of a 2m span will sag about an inch.  That is an underestimate because: a) 75mm timber is actually thinner than 75mm; b) the span is wider than 2m; c) that is a dead load, and you need to allow for you bouncing a bit (and your children bouncing a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I would want to go for something like 50mm x 150mm which will give you &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; better stability - and if it's actually 3m, you are going to need a really chunky bit of timber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go and have a look at a climbing frame on your local children's playground.  That will give you an idea of the sort of size timber you need for stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My final thought: does your room have enough head height &lt;em&gt;above&lt;/em&gt; the frame?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1646" LastActivityDate="2017-10-30T07:01:16.833" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6580" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6583" CreationDate="2017-10-30T19:32:48.877" Score="4" ViewCount="3583" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am an enthusiastic but novice wood worker, and this is my first large project. The table is made of pine boards (and possibly some fir? I've been doing several projects lately and I'm not 100% sure which 2x4s ended up going into this table). I know I want to stain it a deep brown (I have some miniwax dark walnut stain ready to use), but I'm having trouble deciding how to finish it. Here are my concerns:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The surface of the table is roughly 8x4 feet, and I'm worried about being able to get an even coat over the whole thing fast enough if I use a relatively quick drying finish like water- or oil-based poly. I've used water-based poly finish with good results before, but on much smaller projects. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't have a dedicated work room or garage. Whatever finish I use will be applied right in the dining room of our rather small apartment. I'm concerned about dust getting in the finish since I can't control the space well --- there's a cat and husband in the mix who will be tramping back and forth, scattering debris. :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also because I'll be working inside our home, I'm concerned about noxious fumes while it dries. There's a couple warm days coming up in the forecast so I'll be able to open the windows, but still... &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used beeswax mixed with food-grade mineral oil as a sort of finish before and really liked the way it looked. It was for some baby toys I made for a friend of mine, so I wanted a finish that would be safe even while being sucked/chewed/etc. I have a fair amount left over, so I was wondering if it would be crazy to just use that for the table. It would take the time pressure off the application since it doesn't dry like poly finishes, and there's no concern about fumes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know wax and oil finishes don't last, so I would need to &quot;refinish&quot; the table with it again every year or so, but that doesn't bother me. I've also read that wax and oil don't provide the same level of protection as other kinds of finish, but I'm not exactly sure what that means in terms of consequences for my table --- I made it &quot;rustic&quot; looking on purpose so we wouldn't worry about scrapes and such. It will see heavy use. There's a good chance it will have hot dishes placed on it, as well as the inevitable wine and coffee spills, sticky bits of food, etc. Will the reduced &quot;protection&quot; afforded by wax and oil mean we can't keep the table clean? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are the downsides of using a beeswax and oil &quot;finish&quot; on a dining table, if I'm not very worried about preventing cosmetic damage, or having to reapply it annually? If you think beeswax and oil would be a bad choice, what other finish would you recommend, given my concerns above?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4334" LastActivityDate="2017-10-31T09:16:04.437" Title="finish for a very large pine dining table --- is beeswax crazy?" Tags="|finishing|finish-selection|tabletop|pine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6581" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-30T22:09:50.893" Score="1" ViewCount="186" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm starting wood turning, I'm currently doing my second bowl.  For some reason, my wood screw is getting stuck in my bowl. (both times)  Whenever I try to remove my bowl, it simply does not move.  It seems to spin, as if the wooden threads were stripped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To remove the screw, I have to cut the inside of the bowl with the screw in.  Once I'm far enough, the screw can get lose with residual wood around; which I remove manually. (With manual tools, pliers, chisels, etc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the chuck that I'm using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/28Vra.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/28Vra.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastActivityDate="2017-10-30T22:09:50.893" Title="Why is my wood screw getting stuck in my bowl when turning with my lathe chuck?" Tags="|turning|lathe-chuck|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6577" CreationDate="2017-10-31T08:08:24.520" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;With mitre cuts you're nearly always going to bisect the angles*, so with 122° corners you will be aiming to mitre at 61°. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you're going to have to do some test cuts anyway to ensure the saw is giving you exactly what you need once set to 61° — that setting on the saw is not a guarantee you'll get an angle that exactly matches the one measured by another tool! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re. the coping cuts, you don't have to sweat a specific angle. Since you have to do this by hand and eye anyway just saw for a tight fit at the leading edge, that's all that is required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Occasionally for specific jobs you'll cut the two angles unevenly, but they will still sum to the same total.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-10-31T08:08:24.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6580" CreationDate="2017-10-31T09:16:04.437" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll preface my comments by saying that finish choice is a very personal thing, what one person is comfortable using and living with (in terms of upkeep and periodic maintenance) another would not. And equally the second person's preferred finish will often not suit the first person's. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The surface of the table is roughly 8x4 feet, and I'm worried about being able to get an even coat over the whole thing fast enough if I use a relatively quick drying finish like water- or oil-based poly. I've used water-based poly finish with good results before, but on much smaller projects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That wouldn't at all be a problem with oil-based poly since used straight from the tin you have, at the very worst, many minutes but in the right conditions up to a half hour or so before it begins to tack up and be awkward to deal with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is challenging to get an even result on a surface of this size with a waterbased finish, but it's doable if you use the right techniques. One of the key tips is simply to use a larger applicator! For an 8'x4' table (2.4m x 1.2m) I'd suggest using a full-size roller such as you'd use to paint a wall. Even with a 4&quot; brush, fairly sizeable by the standards of furniture finishing, even an experienced user would struggle to achieve a result as good and it would most certainly take longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I don't have a dedicated work room or garage. Whatever finish I use will be applied right in the dining room of our rather small apartment. I'm concerned about dust getting in the finish since I can't control the space well --- there's a cat and husband in the mix who will be tramping back and forth, scattering debris. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sort of situation calls out for a fast-drying finish, which obviously is right in the wheelhouse of waterbased finishes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But oil-based varnishes can be diluted and applied as wiping varnish and the much thinner coat that results can be dry enough that dust won't stick firmly to it after as little as 30 minutes to an hour, depending on conditions. And be ready for another coat in just a few hours if it's warmish and not humid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dust nibs don't have to be a big issue if you are willing to work the surface after it has hardened up (even a very bad case can be completely eradicated) but obviously dust in the finish is best avoided in the first place if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also because I'll be working inside our home, I'm concerned about noxious fumes while it dries. There's a couple warm days coming up in the forecast so I'll be able to open the windows, but still... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously not an issue if using a waterbased finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a problem with oil-based finishes regrettably and there's little that can be done to prevent it. Using low-odour solvent is sometimes an option, sometimes called &quot;odourless mineral spirits&quot; they are not truly odourless but have &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; less smell. But there is plenty of the normal smelly stuff in the varnish itself so it doesn't completely avoid the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I know wax and oil finishes don't last&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very much so. The mixing of the oil with wax actually makes the finish more prone to removal than conventional wax finishes because it makes it softer than the wax already is (pretty darned soft by finish standards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've also read that wax and oil don't provide the same level of protection as other kinds of finish, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yup. I think &quot;not the same level of protection&quot; should probably be read as &quot;virtually no protection&quot; to give the right impression. Even a fully built-up linseed oil finish (seven to a dozen coats of an oil that 'dries' and doesn't stay liquid) is still an order of magnitude less protection than just a couple/three thin coats of poly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what you're comfortable with in terms of cleanup of spills and accrual of stains is entirely up to the individual. What it amounts to in practice is having to wipe up spills very quickly (if not immediately) rather than being able to ignore them until the meal is over. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;but I'm not exactly sure what that means in terms of consequences for my table &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because you're staining the table, and because you're staining dark in particular, conventional thinking is you &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; a protective surface finish. Otherwise abrasion direct acts on the wood surface and is going to start to wear away the colour. This is all levels of abrasion, even sleeves rubbing the edges when dining will do it and wiping the table clean will add to it. And with the wood beneath being so much lighter it'll be very evident once it starts. You might be OK with that given the rustic nature of the table, another area where personal standards are the final word.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There's a good chance it will have &lt;strong&gt;hot dishes&lt;/strong&gt; placed on it, as well as the inevitable wine and coffee spills, sticky bits of food, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The highlighted portion is the part that should worry you. Any wax finish is prone to heat damage and beeswax can often soften just from hand warmth, it will actually begin to melt at the sort of temperatures of a hot plate. And just to note, the blended finish you're planning on using will I expect have an even lower melting point than the beeswax alone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wine spills may or may not be a major concern. The dark colour of the table will go a long way to hiding those if they do occur and if you wipe up very quickly they can probably be avoided anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;reapply it annually&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is just a guess but I'd expect you'd need to reapply the finish more frequently than annually. Every six months might even be conservative. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should close by admitting to being against wax as a standalone finish on furniture that sees much use, so I might be guilty of an overly conservative position here. I think the best course of action if you plan to go ahead with using the wax blend is to find out practically what it can stand up to — start with an offcut and sand, stain and wax it exactly as you plan to do the table. Now subject it to some realistic usage tests and see how it fares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-10-31T09:16:04.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6568" CreationDate="2017-10-31T16:26:19.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are happy with the look of (and maintenance of) coconut oil then you will be happy with the bees wax/natural resin as well. It is unlikely, but the resin may darken the wood a tiny bit more then straight oil (most folks won't see a difference). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also depending on the resin, the resin may cause the wax to buff to a shinier sheen. (In fact, some folks use rosin just for this effect.) As always, I suggest testing on scrap to ensure you know what to expect. If you are not happy, the wax can be removed with a bit of effort and mineral spirits (or a similar solvent).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastActivityDate="2017-10-31T16:26:19.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6585" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6587" CreationDate="2017-10-31T17:55:46.597" Score="1" ViewCount="2375" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a cherry mission style bed and need to pick out bed rail hardware.  I want to make sure the bed is very rigid. There are a number of bed rail connector styles and I want to buy some high quality hardware that makes a very rigid connection.  Without holding or testing them to get a feel for their rigidity, it's tough to tell from the pictures what will be rigid and what will allow the bed to flex.  One thing I can say from looking at these pictures, is that I think the style that screws into the end grain of the rail may be weaker than the style that screws to the rail across the end grain (simply because screwing into end grain is not as strong as across the grain.  However, I also realize that the style that screws into the end grain may have 3&quot; long screws, whereas the style the screws across the end grain could not be more than about 1&quot; screws (or they would go through).  Anyone have any first hand experience with various bed rail connections that can give tell me which ones are more rigid than others?&#xA;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/5-surface-mounted-bed-rail-brackets&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.rockler.com/5-surface-mounted-bed-rail-brackets&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/heavy-duty-wrought-steel-bed-rail-fasteners-4-pack-select-size&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.rockler.com/heavy-duty-wrought-steel-bed-rail-fasteners-4-pack-select-size&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4147" LastActivityDate="2017-11-02T14:40:52.300" Title="What type of bed rails connectors make the best connection (the most rigid)" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6586" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6588" CreationDate="2017-10-31T21:03:16.187" Score="4" ViewCount="1421" Body="&lt;p&gt;A popular, modern style of table has the legs going through the table top, so that the end grain of the leg is exposed. Of course, the problem with this design immediately becomes the expansion and contraction of the table top, which would push and pull against the legs. An example of this style is the &quot;Big Sur&quot; dining table at Crate and Barrel. Other manufacturers make similar looking tables, which is apparently a variation of a &quot;Parsons table&quot; design. I've found one other discussion of the style on the web, and people were convinced manufacturers were using cleverly disguised plywood. I have seen the Big Sur table in person, and I can tell you with complete certainty that the tabletop is solid wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking under the table, there are kerfs approximately 5 inches apart, which I assume are to allow for expansion. The bottom of the tabletop is reinforced with metal brackets screwed into place. I assume this is to strengthen the tabletop due to the weakness introduced by the kerfs. The kerfs do not go all the way through the tabletop, so I assume expansion would still be a problem. Additionally, there is a 1/8&quot; gap between the table top and the legs, which I assume is there to allow for additional expansion, but would probably also harbor food crumbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never heard of kerfing the bottom of a tabletop before. Is this a thing? Am I interpreting the design correctly? My wife and I, who rarely agree on anything, both like the aesthetics of the table. I've talked about custom building one but I'm having second thoughts. Is the table stable or is it just a bad design?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://images.crateandbarrel.com/is/image/Crate/BigSurNatBenchAV1F12R/&quot; alt=&quot;close up of the leg going through the table top&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4252" LastEditorUserId="4252" LastEditDate="2019-06-09T19:48:46.433" LastActivityDate="2019-06-09T19:48:46.433" Title="Designing and Building a Through-Leg Table" Tags="|wood-movement|table-making|tabletop|end-grain|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6585" CreationDate="2017-11-01T08:58:06.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you need to overthink this, while there will be some that provide greater strength it's likely that any of the common solutions produce a bed that is rigid enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;One thing I can say from looking at these pictures, is that I think the style that screws into the end grain of the rail may be weaker than the style that screws to the rail across the end grain (simply because screwing into end grain is not as strong as across the grain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general this would be right, but screw type matters. The right screws (both as to length and thread style) can grip plenty strong enough for service in a joint subjected to longitudinal stress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If only common screws are available though and you want to be extra sure the screws aren't going to pull out there's an old trick to increase their hold:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IJtvB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IJtvB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dowel to secure screw in end grain&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Equally, while the middle screw of three should be driven in straight the other two can be driven in dovetail-fashion to provide additional pull-out security. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So really, just pick a connector style you like or that fits the budget and go for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-11-01T08:58:06.977" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6586" CreationDate="2017-11-01T09:21:52.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make the top from carefully selected quartersawn stock in a species known for low movement and you can go ahead with a table like this and not worry greatly about expansion and contraction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a fairly simple (and much cheaper!) alternative and that is to have the short rails float or be an easy sliding fit in the mortises on the legs. The top would still be attached to these rails in a conventional manner but it leaves the front and rear leg assemblies free to move in and out as needed through the seasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have never heard of kerfing the bottom of a tabletop before. Is this a thing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently! I am not at all convinced it would do enough to account for movement in any location subject to wide swings in humidity*. However many modern American homes with central air etc. have much smaller humidity changes, and some present-day furniture actually takes advantage of the fact as mentioned in a couple of previous Answers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is the table stable or is it just a bad design?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this is a stupid design for a large dining table and, apologies, pretty ugly to boot. But the price they're charging for this big ol' hunk of rustic, that's just insane o_O&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*&lt;em&gt;Especially&lt;/em&gt; since they don't run the full length of the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-11-01T09:21:52.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6589" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-01T10:10:59.317" Score="1" ViewCount="2906" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a guitar and have slotted the neck into the body but there are some large gaps between the neck and body. Is there any foolproof way to disguise these gaps. I have been thinking of mixing glue with sawdust to fill the gaps but I am wanting more ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4337" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2017-11-01T16:47:12.727" LastActivityDate="2017-11-01T16:47:12.727" Title="How to disguise gaps in wooden joints" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6589" CreationDate="2017-11-01T11:57:34.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no foolproof way. Here's a rundown of some options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use slivers/wedges of real wood glued and pushed into crevices. This offers the most strength and tends to look best, but is probably the hardest to achieve. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fill the gap with a gap-filling glue, like epoxy. Epoxy will offer some strength to this mistake. Even if you fill the epoxy with sawdust or a die, it will tend to look like a filled gap. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The old wood glue and sawdust trick. Easy, but will stand out similar to epoxy. Regular wood glue will not strengthen the area like epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Real Wood filler. Has the potential to look better than the glue options, but usually not by much. It will also not strengthen the area.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2017-11-01T11:57:34.603" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6591" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-01T15:52:01.923" Score="1" ViewCount="581" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to buy the desk pictured below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ftgfh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ftgfh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;picture1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tM3ak.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tM3ak.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;picture2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I'm pretty sure it won't fit in my sedan, and I'd rather not pay to rent a van, so I'd like to take it apart and then put it back together.&#xA;It doesn't need to be pretty after I put it back together, just functional. So I plan on just nailing the parts back together; except for the drawers -- getting rid of those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about sawing it at the seams. Does this seem like a viable option, or what you would do? I'd like to have a good idea of what is and isn't going to work, and what is going to be easiest before I get there, so I don't drop money on this desk and then find out what I did to it ruined it, leaving me without a desk or the money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's only going to be me working on it so no recommendations that require a second hand, and the tools I use must be handheld and inexpensive -- I'm going to be buying tools just for this task and don't want to be stuck with anything expensive that I can't return and will probably never use again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, this is important, I'm going to be sawing off the bottoms of the legs to fine-tune the height of it a bit. I'll probably do an inch or two at a time by drawing a straight-line x amount of distance away from the edge and using a hand saw to cut it off. Keep in mind that I have no tools and will just be doing this once, so the tools I buy to do this will likely never be used again, so if the tools I use to take it apart double for adjusting the height, then all the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4339" LastEditorUserId="2524" LastEditDate="2017-11-01T19:33:07.587" LastActivityDate="2017-11-11T09:36:50.017" Title="Taking apart a pre-assembled desk" Tags="|hand-tools|hand-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6592" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-01T20:46:46.697" Score="1" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;My son is making mould &amp;amp; deckle papermaking frames for me using pinewood. The frames are continually immersed in water. Could you please suggest the best glue to use for this job?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4340" LastActivityDate="2017-12-18T10:39:20.707" Title="What would be the best glue to use for papermaking frames that are immersed in water &amp; made from pinewood" Tags="|glue|softwood|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6592" CreationDate="2017-11-02T02:19:19.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best option would be a two part marine epoxy. Many of the major adhesive manufacturers produce them and hardware stores stock them so it will be easy to acquire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4327" LastEditorUserId="4327" LastEditDate="2017-11-02T17:09:33.397" LastActivityDate="2017-11-02T17:09:33.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6449" CreationDate="2017-11-02T04:07:40.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A high quality, marine-grade varnish is the best option for this project. I advise against water based finishes in favor of an oil based, high solvent product. However, there does seem to be some evidence that there are water based products attaining a fair degree of respectability in some circles. Either way, go with a high end, relatively expensive coating, especially if you do choose to go the water based route. Since it is a relatively small project, requiring only a small quantity, the extra cost should prove fairly painless and will pay off in the long run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Food safety is not an issue once the finish has cured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with all finishes and bonding of objects and substances in general, surface preparation will be one of, if not the greatest factor influencing your level of success regardless of the product used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4327" LastActivityDate="2017-11-02T04:07:40.440" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6596" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-02T04:22:38.590" Score="1" ViewCount="3705" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to heat a wood kiln safely to 140 degrees F.&#xA;Ideally there would be a commercial product available. All electrical heaters have a high temp cut off switch around 120F that protects the heater.&#xA;The only option I can think off is have the heater outside and duct the hot air inside, but that causes other issues with pressure and the unit not sealed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any electrical products rated at or above 140F that would be suitable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4342" LastActivityDate="2023-02-18T02:24:36.300" Title="how to heat a wood kiln to 140 F safely" Tags="|kiln-dried-wood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6545" CreationDate="2017-11-02T04:25:15.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other than chemical analysis, or direct knowledge of someone associated with installing the fence or otherwise in the know, there can be no definitive answer to your question as stated in combination with the picture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there are ways to make an educated guess and this picture gives only a small slice of information. Possibly the most useful datum that is needed to adequately answer this question is the age of the fence. That coupled with the species and location would be sufficient to triangulate a reasonably accurate, educated guess. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When in doubt, and the situation indicates the possibility i.e. fencing, assume it is treated. So if you wanted to know whether it would be safe to burn, which is likely all it is good for at this point, and unless you have some of the aforementioned data points, eschew incineration. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4327" LastActivityDate="2017-11-02T04:25:15.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6318" CreationDate="2017-11-02T04:36:07.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's called a pinking iron. It is a struck punch type of tool used for decorative shaping of leather and cloth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reasons for the sizes are similar for that of any instrument or tool. Repeatability, precision, and aesthetic choice regarding ratios and proportions of specific projects to name a few. They are marked for rapid identification so that a craftsperson may easily and swiftly select the right tool for the job. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4327" LastEditorUserId="4327" LastEditDate="2017-11-02T16:21:35.657" LastActivityDate="2017-11-02T16:21:35.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6599" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-02T12:29:41.757" Score="2" ViewCount="672" Body="&lt;p&gt;We would like to add stacked cabinets on top of our existing frameless cabinets, but the cabinet maker I'm working with says they would look like an after thought because it would be very difficult to get the trim/side panels lined up properly. There is no way to put continuous trim panels up without disassembling the entire kitchen and we don't want to do that. Any suggestions? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NwMXF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NwMXF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;picture of existing cabinetry&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4344" LastEditorUserId="3830" LastEditDate="2017-11-03T18:36:08.367" LastActivityDate="2017-11-03T22:55:10.287" Title="Adding Stacked Cabinets to Existing Frameless Cabinets" Tags="|design|cabinetry|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6585" CreationDate="2017-11-02T14:34:41.877" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many years ago (probably close to 25 or 30), my father built a set of twin bed frames for me and my bother as kids. For these, he used simple threaded rods epoxied into holes drilled into the end grain of the bed rails, which passed through holes on the bed legs. These were bolted down with a nut and a washer on the outside of the leg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They held up to the two of us kids jumping around and doing other rambunctious kid stuff just fine, and I never remembered them creaking or swaying in any manner. We still use these beds, now stacked as bunk beds, in our family cabin, and they hold up just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't like the look of the nut and washer on the outside of the leg, there are plenty of ways to dress it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another similar system is to use &quot;bed bolts.&quot;  These are ubiquitous at IKEA, and they are quite effective, regardless of how cheap IKEA furniture is.  My dad and I used these in a baby crib for my nephew recently since they give a very tidy look compared to the through-bolt option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pW5Xs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pW5Xs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bed bolts&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wikihow.com/Install-Bed-Bolts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="878" LastEditDate="2017-11-02T14:40:52.300" LastActivityDate="2017-11-02T14:40:52.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6592" CreationDate="2017-11-02T18:20:02.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As with most things there's no one best option. There are three good choices that aren't too difficult to obtain and should be absolutely reliable:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Epoxy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Polyurethane&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Urea-formaldehyde&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are in no particular order. The epoxy does not need to be marine-grade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Additional point&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As well as going with a waterproof glue for this sort of application it would be best to use corner joints that have some structural strength, so that you aren't only relying on the glue bond. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in essence use anything but plain mitres. These are inherently not &#xA;strong structural joints because two end-grain surfaces are being bonded together and this is the weakest of all glue situations. If going with mitres some further reinforcement should be considered mandatory. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Preferable joints would be one of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mortise and tenon (wedged or drawbored ideally, pegged as a third option).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bridle joint, which can be pegged if desired.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Halving joint AKA half-lap joint (can also be pegged).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;End-grain to long grain butt joint, which can be reinforced with a through-dowel or screw*. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note these &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; in approximate order of preference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Stainless steel or brass/bronze in preference, although it appears plain steel fixings are used in the frames in use with many paparmakers as odd as that seems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-11-02T18:20:02.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6602" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6766" CreationDate="2017-11-02T22:41:53.333" Score="2" ViewCount="203" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just been making my first guitar over the last few days from scratch and I have just gotten to the point of needing a finish for it. It is a solid body slide guitar. I was wondering if anyone had experience in oiling a whole guitar body instead of varnish. Pros and cons. Any advice? How long between oiling the next time? Any good oils for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4337" LastActivityDate="2017-12-18T10:31:19.230" Title="Finishing a wooden piece by oiling instead of varnish/paint/lacquer" Tags="|finishing|technique|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6603" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-03T13:21:13.953" Score="0" ViewCount="133" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a small rolling cabinet (36&quot; h x 22&quot; w x 20&quot; d) with inset drawers.  The instructions for the drawer slide extensions direct me to install them at the bottom of the drawers.  Several YouTube videos I've watched have the installer mounting them on the center line of each drawer.  Any pros/cons for either approach?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4347" LastActivityDate="2017-11-03T17:55:44.680" Title="Placement of drawer slides" Tags="|drawer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6604" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6617" CreationDate="2017-11-03T13:33:32.593" Score="1" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two cat shelfs (brought, sorry).  The problem that i have is that they are sometimes quite weak.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I make them more secure?  What do I need to do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This is the bottom of the shelf&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OPGvq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OPGvq.png&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom of the cat shelf&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This the actual split from the top of the shelf&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B4MWi.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B4MWi.png&quot; alt=&quot;Shelf Split area&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4348" LastActivityDate="2017-11-06T15:26:54.043" Title="How to stop cat shelf split" Tags="|strength|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6603" CreationDate="2017-11-03T17:55:44.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the specific drawer slide.  Some are designed to be mounted at the bottom, some elsewhere.  Follow the instructions of your specific slides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2017-11-03T17:55:44.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6599" CreationDate="2017-11-03T20:06:56.480" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I believe what your cabinet-maker is getting at is that most stacked European-style cabinets (like you have, with no visible face frames) are incorporated into the same carcass as the lower-uppers, which makes it easy to line up all the doors and ensure they line up exactly; since you want to add a separate carcass above the existing one, getting the stacked doors to butt right against the existing upper doors will require a) removing the existing crown trim and b) exactly measuring and installing the new cabinets. Even a small discrepancy in the door width, for example, will be very obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't got the experience to back up this opinion, but I think a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; skilled carpenter could probably build cabinets to fit the right dimensions on-site, and then send them to your cabinet-maker for finishing. That would be a very expensive process, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you might consider replacing the crown trim with a design element that provides some separation between the cabinet levels, but makes it look intentional. For example, these stacked cabinets have a ladder rail between them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HPGtD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HPGtD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;stacked cabinets with ladder rail&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The face frames above are aligned to the cabinets below as well, but minor differences wouldn't be nearly as easy to spot. You don't need to actually put a ladder rail on, of course; just anything to break up the vertical lines and give your implementation some tolerance for error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3830" LastActivityDate="2017-11-03T20:06:56.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6599" CreationDate="2017-11-03T22:55:10.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that what he is saying is that the blank side panels (i.e. to the left of the oven and on either side of the microwave) will not flow continuously into the new upper wall cabinets' side panels.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that you could get around this by replacing the existing crown molding with a flat molding to cover the joint line.  Similar to Robert's answer, the more visual distraction you add the less obvious this disjoint will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I don't see why you couldn't layer a full-length side panel over the existing side panels.  You'd have a visible edge you'd have to dress up somehow, but this doesn't seem too difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly, what I think you have here is a contractor who just doesn't want to think outside the box.  You should look for someone who does more than just throw up prebuilt kitchen cabinet boxes.  Try to find a real carpenter who specializes in custom built-ins.  (Obviously this type of tradesman would be more skilled and charge more than a kitchen installer.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2017-11-03T22:55:10.287" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4310" CreationDate="2017-11-04T02:30:11.260" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Add a frame made from 1x4's to the bottom flush with sides. Glued and screwed. Glue ok with the grain of the table, glue only ends across the grain. Add additional strips within the frame to coincide with the base and were the clips go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4351" LastActivityDate="2017-11-04T02:30:11.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6612" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6613" CreationDate="2017-11-05T00:21:52.847" Score="6" ViewCount="1750" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a coffee table and want to use either Walnut or Chestnut. But here's the deciding question/factor because I know that Chestnut takes stain relatively well. But how well does Walnut take stain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4355" LastActivityDate="2017-11-05T17:22:27.777" Title="How well does Walnut take stain?" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6612" CreationDate="2017-11-05T17:22:27.777" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, Walnut does accept stain and dyes well in the sense that it does not suffer from blotchiness nor does it specifically require pre-stain conditioners.  It is obviously a dark color to begin with which does limit the range of stain colors you can apply to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it is generally frowned upon to stain walnut, but case in point, I did a project where I ended up with a lot of sapwood throughout and the coloring of the project was really inconsistent. I ended up applying an alcohol-based dye to the wood to generalize the color across the project.  I also filled the grain, and used a stain in the grain filler to better match the color.  I was happy with the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2017-11-05T17:22:27.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6604" CreationDate="2017-11-06T03:16:07.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks to me as though the joint where the side pieces meet the back has failed. I'm not sure how it is currently joined, but I think this would be the best strategy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Force some wood glue into the crack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill a hole through the back and into the side piece&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glue a dowel into the hole&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clamp the joint back together and let it sit until the glue is dried&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the dowel method is beyond your skills/tools, then just glue the crack and then use an appropriately sized wood screw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4359" LastActivityDate="2017-11-06T03:16:07.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5917" CreationDate="2017-11-06T03:28:53.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mattias Wandel from Woodgears.ca has a good method for sharpening circular saw blades with a diamond disc in a drill/dremel. He goes a lot more in depth and builds a jig to do this, but you could do the same thing by hand with a little less precision. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodgears.ca/table_saw/sharpening_jig.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://woodgears.ca/table_saw/sharpening_jig.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4359" LastActivityDate="2017-11-06T03:28:53.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2535" CreationDate="2017-11-06T07:44:05.387" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A simple, effective and less expensive option would be to glue various grits of sandpaper to appropriately shaped wood blocks. If you need off set as in the case of the crank neck chisel, a handle could easily be fashioned from a variety of materials and attached. Another way would be to make the tool from a single piece of wood, appropriately shaped with a flat for the sandpaper and curving up into a handle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's completely customizable and readily available. No fussing with the wait time and expense of a tool you are likely to use very rarely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4327" LastActivityDate="2017-11-06T07:44:05.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6604" CreationDate="2017-11-06T15:26:54.043" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's a cantilever design&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.artofpaws.co.uk/products/cat-shelf-perch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Dbhz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Dbhz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like someone (or somecat) has put more weight on it than it is capable of supporting (was it located somewhere a child might have been tempted to try it?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After repairing the split (disassemble, glue and screws or clamp, reassemble) I would add some bracing struts to the underside, secured to the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="158" LastActivityDate="2017-11-06T15:26:54.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6618" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-11-06T16:18:11.173" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-11-06T16:18:11.173" LastActivityDate="2017-11-06T16:18:11.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6619" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-11-06T16:18:11.173" Score="0" Body="This is a special tag that is designed to be used only by the system for questions that have had all of their other tags removed. Do not add this tag to existing questions, it is reserved for use by the system to identify posts with no valid tags." OwnerUserId="2889" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2017-11-23T06:31:15.233" LastActivityDate="2017-11-23T06:31:15.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6620" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-06T18:49:59.487" Score="2" ViewCount="1474" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a table from a reputable furniture store and received it about 2 weeks ago.  Everything seemed OK with the table upon receipt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, on 11/1, I noticed the &quot;stains&quot; (or lack of stain) and clear buildup of what appears to be glue on the table.  I am certain nothing was spilled on the table; we only used a damp cloth to clean it.  Customer service is saying that it is a result of spilled glue or spilled nail polish remover after we received it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a case where the glue was not completely sanded at the manufacturer and the stain did not adhere to the wood?  Or does this seem more like a spilled glue/ solvent after delivery?  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TkApz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TkApz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;stain1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XYgrV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XYgrV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;stain1a&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mR1gi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mR1gi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;tabletop&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4360" LastActivityDate="2018-01-05T22:41:45.397" Title="Stain not adhering to wood" Tags="|staining|glue|tabletop|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6620" CreationDate="2017-11-06T21:41:37.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the good closeup photos, that helps a lot with this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming the table is finished in a hard, dry finish that does look very clearly like solvent damage. As the person in customer service said, a good contender for it is nail polish remover as it's one of the few things in the average modern home that has a solvent* in it capable of quickly dissolving a tough modern finish. The location near an edge also makes a polish remover spill a likely suspect, nearer the centre it would seem less likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Usually acetone but sometimes a lesser equivalent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-11-06T21:41:37.847" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6419" CreationDate="2017-11-07T00:59:22.800" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Live edge furniture refers to the inclusion of the unsquared, natural edge of a tree in the lumber being used for a piece. Typically this is the sapwood with the bark removed. In standard lumber this edge is milled off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general bark is actually hard to keep on the wood as it expands and contracts at a different rate to the wood it's attached to, so therefore tends to detach over time. The sapwood is the actual &quot;living&quot; part of a tree and encompasses the outermost ring through which nutrients travel. Sapwood is generally a lighter color that the heartwood (inner rings) and therefore is preferred to add an accent to the piece being produced. Sapwood inclusion in dimensional lumber (read squared edges) usually denotes lower quality lumber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A piece of lumber that includes 2 live edges is typically referred to as a slab, although a very wide piece of wood can also be referred to as such without the live edges. Hence, slab tables often are a table made from the cross section of a tree with the bark removed but maintaining the 2 live edges. The angle of the live edge can be used to get a general idea of what part of the layered cross section the piece came from. The more parallel the edge, the more central the slab. The more angled the edge, the more peripheral the cut. This can also be seen in the grain pattern of the end grain, as it will invariably reflect the angle of the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2527" LastActivityDate="2017-11-07T00:59:22.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6624" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-07T01:09:06.203" Score="1" ViewCount="100" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a large piece of Camphor Laurel that I have sanded and given a sealing coat to. I'm using Bonball Marine Varnish. I have left it between coats for 24 hours. This is the 3rd full coat today and to my horror, it has gone funny. Not cloudy but like its separated and got streaks in it. It's over the whole top.. What should I do and what caused this to happen?? it's only 21c here today and a slight breeze.. So I would not have thought to hot plus this is the same weather it has been the last few days. So disappointed. Many thanks for any help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4363" LastActivityDate="2017-11-07T01:09:06.203" Title="Coating gone wrong" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6625" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6630" CreationDate="2017-11-07T18:40:50.100" Score="3" ViewCount="1125" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used polyurethane a few times. Each time I've tried to be more careful about creating bubbles, but the finish was still riddled with bubbles. Just the act of dipping the brush in the can and dragging the brush along the edge of the can, or letting it drip, made bubbles in the can. What just occured to me now, is that I would often go back over an area a few times (within a few minutes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am going to use a brush for this stair project. It will be the right king of brush. I might also thin every coat. I need complete instructions for getting the polyurethane from the can to the surface without creating a lot of bubbles. Once it is on, can I really not go back at all to spread it out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4183" LastActivityDate="2017-11-08T00:53:02.530" Title="How are bubbles avoided when brushing on Polyurethane?" Tags="|finishing|polyurethane|hardwood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6625" CreationDate="2017-11-07T23:26:50.973" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had success with thinning the finish just a bit with the associated solvent.&#xA;&quot;topping off&quot;, to even the finish and then let it level works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4335" LastActivityDate="2017-11-07T23:26:50.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6627" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6631" CreationDate="2017-11-07T21:45:33.283" Score="4" ViewCount="192" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have an old cherry table that my wife wants to paint. I'm not keen on painting stained wood, but I want to keep her happy. Is there a way to paint stained wood to make it easier to strip again later on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4367" OwnerDisplayName="Rob Scott" LastActivityDate="2017-11-08T08:12:22.213" Title="How can I paint furniture so that it can be stripped later?" Tags="|furniture|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6627" CreationDate="2017-11-07T22:06:57.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on how durable you want the finish to be and what you want to do later, one thing you can consider is to seal the wood with a clear shellac or polyurethane before painting it.  After that, you can use a latex paint over the top.  The latex paint won't bond well and will scratch easily, so it will not be the most durable finish.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sealed wood will not absorb the paint, so it will be easier to remove later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you later want to stain the wood, you'll need to strip the paint and sealer, which could end up being as much work as just stripping the paint, so like I said - it depends on your future plans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1286" OwnerDisplayName="JPhi1618" LastActivityDate="2017-11-07T22:06:57.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6627" CreationDate="2017-11-07T22:20:49.387" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;They make coatings that are more in the family of &quot;dip tool handles in this stuff&quot;... but are often pitched as semi-permanent paint with removability.  They can be peeled up with a bit of work.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it will all be under paint anyway, you could make a similar piece out of ... not cherry?  Who would know under the paint? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4368" OwnerDisplayName="Harper" LastEditorUserId="4368" LastEditDate="2017-11-08T01:19:29.233" LastActivityDate="2017-11-08T01:19:29.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6625" CreationDate="2017-11-08T00:53:02.530" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have used polyurethane a few times. Each time I've tried to be more careful about creating bubbles, but the finish was still riddled with bubbles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're putting it on too thick (pun intended), and as well as that you're overworking the surface. Overworking with a brush is the classic way that bubbles are introduced into the varnish film on the surface, although of course some bubbles may be present in the liquid prior to application (for example if the contents are mixed by shaking instead of being stirred).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Just the act of dipping the brush in the can and &lt;strong&gt;dragging the brush along the edge of the can&lt;/strong&gt;, or letting it drip, made bubbles in the can. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The highlighted portion is something that is commonly done but you should strive never to dip a brush directly into the original tin. It is incredibly common to do this these days and I see even pros do it on a regular basis and wince every time because it was considered bad practice not too long ago — this is what paint kettles are for*. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can sidestep the issue of where you load the brush and solve the problem of bubbles once and for all by modifying your standard poly by diluting it (in a separate container!) changing it in essence to &quot;wiping varnish&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite how it's referred to wiping varnish doesn't have to be wiped on but that is a great way of applying varnish, especially to large flat surfaces and table legs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially complete instructions are provided in a previous Answer:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5891/how-to-fix-very-light-scratches-in-polyurethane-finish/5893#5893&quot;&gt;how to fix very light scratches in polyurethane finish?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(be sure to click on the images to see them at full size so you can read the text more easily)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; I shake my homemade wiping varnish in the jar it's made in and this means it is chock full of bubbles right before use, but the thinning and the application method are so effective at eliminating bubbles that there are never any left in the varnish film once it has dried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Users aren't solely to blame though, the makers of paint kettles aren't helping matters by having largely retired the square type in favour of round ones, when a straight-sided container is vastly superior to paint out of because it allows the brush to be evenly unloaded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-11-08T00:53:02.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6627" CreationDate="2017-11-08T08:12:22.213" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Paint it with a waterbased paint*&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;These are usually &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; easier to strip at a later date than oil-based paints, which in the present day are usually some type of enamel even if the labelling doesn't describe them as such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There isn't a huge amount in it but a more-matt paint (semi-gloss down to fully matt) will generally strip slightly more easily than a gloss paint, as the former have a more 'open' surface. So if you don't mind that the table isn't full gloss when painted there is a slight advantage later on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Paint it with oil paint&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I mean linseed-oil paint specifically, not any old oil-based paint. Without a resin component (this is what turns oil paint into an enamel) plain oil paints remain much more responsive to solvent stripping, almost permanently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some additional points worth touching on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clean the surface before painting&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Normally you'd want to clean the table thoroughly and lightly sand/scuff it to promote paint adhesion, but here I'll specifically advise you to skip the scuffing. You still need to clean the surface well so that any contamination, especially furniture polish or wax but also possible residues of cleaning agents, are removed as these could lead to defects in the paint film. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the wood is already stained it is likely also varnished or lacquered so I don't see any benefit to going the extra mile and using a barrier coat. If the table were bare wood however it would be well worth giving it a single coat of shellac before the paint went on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*But not milk paint! Milk paint is famous for just how difficult it is to remove once cured — most conventional paint strippers have zero effect on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-11-08T08:12:22.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6633" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6634" CreationDate="2017-11-10T02:20:40.570" Score="1" ViewCount="149" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to create a simple rocking horse without a band saw or scroll saw or belt sander, and not spending days whittling/hand-sawing rough pieces?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a miter saw, table saw, drill press, and a ton of hand tools (mostly for traditional bow-making), and wanted to make 3 rocking horses for some of my younger nieces. The recurring them is that I need a band-saw for the &quot;rounded&quot; pieces at the bottom. I'd do it with a hand saw, but I'd like these to look semi-professional without having to spend days hand-carving/sanding the rolling feet portion of the horse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an economical alternative to a stationary band saw or scroll saw, or some plans that allow me to get buy without? All of the quality bench-mounted saws and sanders are very expensive, from my searches through Amazon and Lowes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1902" LastActivityDate="2017-11-10T12:47:51.963" Title="Rocking horse without a band/scroll saw or belt sander" Tags="|band-saw|toy|planning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6633" CreationDate="2017-11-10T04:33:49.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bent lamination would work well for making the rockers with the tools you have available. You can cut the thin strips on your table saw then glue and clamp them in a simple jig. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are constructing them from plywood, such as one method with the silhouette cut from a single sheet or you need to cut curves for other parts, a jig saw is a good choice and your most economical option as far as cutting curves with power tools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4327" LastActivityDate="2017-11-10T04:33:49.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6215" CreationDate="2017-11-10T05:15:24.580" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a valve stem face cutter. It is essentially the old time equivalent of a bench mounted valve grinder; used for the repair of valve faces of internal combustion engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/977Qw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/977Qw.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see in the photo how the mechanism is set up. The valve stem is clamped firmly but free to turn with the blade and stop adjusted to the desired depth and angle of cut. The crank (inevitably separated from the unit over time) would hold the small end of the valve stem and the user would turn it with the face (part of the valve that nests in the seat) contacting the blade. Then, the user would adjust the depth stop incrementally until a clean face of the desired dimension is formed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4327" LastEditorUserId="4327" LastEditDate="2017-11-15T03:23:56.727" LastActivityDate="2017-11-15T03:23:56.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6562" CreationDate="2017-11-10T09:35:09.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;BS EN 644:2003 &quot;Timber Windows - Factory assembled windows of various types&quot; (which is the main British Standard for timber window design, construction and finishing) says: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Adhesives shall conform to BS EN 204:2001, type D3 or BS 1204.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it seems that D3 grade PVA is the accepted standard for timber windows which will be coated with a paint or stain finish. It could be that D4 is meant more for fully durable timbers like Oak which may be left unpainted and fully exposed to the weather - but I'm sure it wouldn't hurt to use a higher grade than strictly necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastEditorUserId="272" LastEditDate="2017-11-10T10:41:40.207" LastActivityDate="2017-11-10T10:41:40.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4658" CreationDate="2017-11-10T09:46:17.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to re-coat my IKEA kitchen worktop with Behandla as it has gone very dull.  But where we had put a small draw unit and a marble stand on the worktop, which have never been moved until now, I found that the surface where they had been was very sticky. I used a Scotch Brite pan Scourer - the green ones, dipped in warm water, and it removed the stickiness without sanding the wood. This has worked for me; maybe it may help someone else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4376" LastActivityDate="2017-11-10T09:46:17.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6633" CreationDate="2017-11-10T12:47:51.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This shouldn't take days with hand tools. This is how I would approach it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the convex side (bottom side) of the curved rockers, roughly cut the shape with a hand saw (or use the table saw if you prefer). Make a few straight cuts outside the eventual curve, so you will end up with maybe 4 or 5 straight line sections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the concave side (top side), cut straight into the waste part inside the curve. Make several straight cuts perpendicular to the curve almost down to the line. Then pop out the sections between the cuts with a chisel. You can chisel along the grain, and the saw cuts act as breaks to allow sections of waste to chip off without splitting all the way through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will now have a rough approximation to the curve you want. If you have a spokeshave, you can finish off both sides of the curve with that. A plane will work well for the convex side too, but not for the concave side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2258" LastActivityDate="2017-11-10T12:47:51.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3405" CreationDate="2017-11-10T17:34:56.853" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as the historical side of the question, the two have been in concurrent use for a very long time. Arthur Irving Jacobs invented the keyed drill chuck in 1902 but bit braces and drills were using a form of keyless chuck long before that. The question might just as well have been 'why didn't the keyed chuck replace keyless?' Part of the answer is, like most things, that every situation is unique and there are advantages and disadvantages to different designs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Among the considerations are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Rapidity of action (keyless excels) versus holding strength (higher in keyed)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Resolving a jam (difficult with keyless)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Balance of manufacturing costs, quality, patent issues, user preference etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4327" LastActivityDate="2017-11-10T17:34:56.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6640" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6641" CreationDate="2017-11-11T01:34:57.363" Score="1" ViewCount="4308" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built a dining tabletop out of pine and stained it three times with Minwax Polyshades Pecan and a fourth time with Minwax Polyshades Espresso. The fourth coat was just to get the rough looking appearance on the wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'm trying to figure out what, if anything, to apply as a polish to give a smooth texture and some sheen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that Minwax Polyshades stain already includes polyurethane in the stain, so I already have that level of protection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I just use fine steel wool now to create a smooth surface and bring out the existing sheen? Or can I apply something else such as paste wax to help with additional protection and add some more sheen? I'm unsure what the best option is here, given that this is for a dining room table and that I'd like for it to hold up against spilled food and drinks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any insight!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SUoZa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SUoZa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4240" LastActivityDate="2017-11-11T07:56:46.080" Title="How should I polish and finish this table top stained with Minwax Polyshades?" Tags="|finishing|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6640" CreationDate="2017-11-11T07:56:46.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'm trying to figure out what, if anything, to apply as a polish to give a smooth texture and some sheen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that Minwax Polyshades stain already includes polyurethane in the stain, so I already have that level of protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not necessary to add anything further when using a 'stain' like that* but it is generally considered advisable on items that will see higher wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The usual thing is to add some plain polyurethane on top of the coloured poly so that you have an uncoloured surface layer that can take the brunt of any wear and scrapes. I would recommend applying it as wiping varnish, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5891/how-to-fix-very-light-scratches-in-polyurethane-finish/5893#5893&quot;&gt;previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I just use fine steel wool now to create a smooth surface and bring out the existing sheen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use steel wool, gently, to smooth the surface prior to applying straight poly if you like, a fine nylon abrasive pad (either Scotch-Brite or an equivalent) or fine abrasive paper are also used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I only do it if the surface has any roughness or dust nibs, if neither are present I don't bother because it serves no purpose. It's not necessary to scuff for adhesion reasons unless you're varnishing over an old finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or can I apply something else such as paste wax to help with additional protection and add some more sheen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paste wax won't do squat to add protection :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Waxes certainly add sheen, but that's essentially all they add. The minor protective effect they do provide is merely to help liquids bead up on the surface, giving at most a few moments' grace time if you have a spill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sheen is better provided by a shiny, hard surface coating that you're already using, in this case polyurethane varnish. If you get a good sheen with this (and you've already gotten a fairly respectable sheen from the Polyshades) it will be far more durable than that raised by wax polishing the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*This is a stupid commercial name for this kind of product, the makers should just label it (and market it) as coloured varnish because that's what it is and prevent confusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2017-11-11T07:56:46.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6591" CreationDate="2017-11-11T09:36:50.017" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This will almost certainly have come flat packed so it will be held together with those metal pegs and flat circular clamp things. I forget what you call them. &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hNYTn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've ever put together and Ikea furniture, you should have seen them before. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First take the drawers out. From the look of them they will come out if you flick the little plastic bits in the runners and then slide out. This should reveal the fixings for the drawer surround. &#xA;Take that out first and then turn the whole thing over on its top. &#xA;After that it's just a case of using a screwdriver to align all the round clamp pieces so the arrow on them points to the join. Everything should them come out with very little force. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be careful of the pins though as they do tend to move a bit and can break the hole that are screwed into. &#xA;Just take your time and make sure you undo everything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you did have some more pictures of the underside and any fixings you see it would make it easier. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Absolutely no need to saw this thing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4378" LastActivityDate="2017-11-11T09:36:50.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6643" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6646" CreationDate="2017-11-11T09:56:58.183" Score="1" ViewCount="696" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been working on stripping the paint from one of my guitar bodies. It had a fairly thick polyurethane finish so I stripped it with my heat gun and sanded off the majority of the rest with my mouse sander. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question are how can I remove the scorch marks and how can i remove the remaining poly in the hard-to-reach places? Is there something I can strip this with or will I just need elbow grease and sandpaper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've sanded the hell out of most of the scorch marks and they just won't shift completely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just as an extra, I'm planning on round routing the edges over so it has a nice less sharp edge, and then finishing with finishing oil. Not going to varnish or poly this again. I like the natural finish. &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nqDR1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5BraX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aR82u.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7CnP3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UskRa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am partially tempted to just go with the scorched look, I'm even wondering about doing the whole body on purpose. But I rather like the clean lump of wood look. I do want to remove the last bits of poly though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice and suggestions please. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4378" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2017-11-12T08:08:03.213" LastActivityDate="2017-11-12T08:08:03.213" Title="How to finish paint/poly removal from a guitar body" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6644" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-11T19:10:46.797" Score="0" ViewCount="947" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ich currently have a 60l aquarium on my cupboard which weighs approx 85 kgs. I want to upgrade to a 100 liter aquarium which will weigh approx 140 - 150 kgs and wanted to be on the safe side and ask for your opinion.   Thickness of board under aquarium is 3 cm while two wooden legs are 1.5 cm. On 4 sides the main board which is under aquarium is supported by screws to main wooden pillars which are 4 cm each. .  I am adding pics as well. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TrPLe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cEGOh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IPc5M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4380" LastActivityDate="2018-03-28T21:08:13.863" Title="Can this table support 150 KG?" Tags="|tabletop|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6644" CreationDate="2017-11-12T02:17:52.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Properly speaking, this question can't be answered. (Unless you can find the manufacturer and ask them...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I have a few ideas to offer. From a design standpoint, you have two relatively solid uprights supporting the weight. That's a good thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't really comment on the rigidity of the entire unit, but if you feel brave, remove the existing aquarium and have 2 adults climb onto where the new aquarium would be (stand over the uprights). If it felt solid, I'd assume that the structure would hold up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do change the aquarium, pay special attention in the first month to see if there's any curving/bowing in the uprights, or sagging in the horizontal shelf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2017-11-12T02:17:52.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6643" CreationDate="2017-11-12T08:06:50.187" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;how can I remove the scorch marks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanding (or scraping) further are nearly your only options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you want to try oxalic acid (which &lt;em&gt;sometimes&lt;/em&gt; works for this) the only way to remove scorching is to physically remove the affected wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;how can I remove the remaining poly in the hard-to-reach places? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meticulous scraping, sanding or use of chemical strippers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: most strippers will pose a risk to any painted components you can't remove from the body, as well as any plastic parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am partially tempted to just go with the scorched look, I'm even wondering about doing the whole body on purpose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is certainly an option and one that a few people pick when they're faced with a similar situation! Be aware that it's hard (very) to get a uniform scorched finish on a fine-grained wood like maple which this appears to be. Also scorching can tend to make the dividing line between one board and another in a glue-up stand out more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Just as an extra, I'm planning on round routing the edges over so it has a nice less sharp edge, and then finishing with finishing oil. Not going to varnish or poly this again. I like the natural finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're planning on oiling you're going to have to be &lt;em&gt;extremely&lt;/em&gt; particular about how well you remove the existing finish, otherwise any traces of poly left on the surface will prevent or partially block oil getting to the wood and those areas will stand out because they'll be much paler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of how significant this effect is I highly recommend previewing your stripping efforts before you even touch the body with oil. But don't worry this is easy. You just wipe mineral spirits/white spirit over the wood which simulates the wetting of the surface that occurs when oil goes on. Any traces of remaining varnish will be instantly visible as light spots. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-11-12T08:06:50.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6647" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-13T01:36:29.357" Score="4" ViewCount="2159" Body="&lt;p&gt;What type of wood would be best to make stickering pieces? Should they be round or square or triangular shaped?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4384" LastEditorUserId="2524" LastEditDate="2017-11-13T15:32:38.333" LastActivityDate="2017-12-13T15:54:54.720" Title="What wood species should I use for making stickers?" Tags="|wood-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6648" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-13T06:06:29.843" Score="0" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JoTMZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JoTMZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to check the alignment of these inserts as shown in attached pictures?&#xA;Also in my company we have a go-no-go gage to test the inserts alignment. How ever we cannot do 100% inspection with the gage as it is time consuming for the team members. Can anyone suggest if I can make a DROP GAGE which can be easy for the Team members to use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4386" LastActivityDate="2017-11-13T06:06:29.843" Title="Threaded inserts alignment methods" Tags="|technique|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6647" CreationDate="2017-11-13T08:24:45.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any pale-coloured hardwood is ideal for stickers and if the intention is use them repeatedly straight-grained pieces without many defects should be selected and the wood should be heartwood only. If drying softwoods a softwood species can be used for the stickers as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no advantage to making them triangular in section (and some obvious disadvantages including the corners being prone to damage) and square is much much easier to form as well. Square (rectilinear) is all that's used commercially as far as I'm aware which probably tells us all we need to know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As there is a lot more to air-drying wood than sticker type, much of it not immediately obvious from looking at photos, it's likely you'd benefit from reading through a thorough guide to get up to speed and avoid a few common pitfalls in creating your stacks. The best guide I know of is published by the USDA's Forest Products Laboratory, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplgtr/fplgtr117.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Air Drying of Lumber&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-11-13T08:24:45.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6650" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6653" CreationDate="2017-11-13T09:47:11.430" Score="5" ViewCount="1555" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make several 25° acute point cuts on long thing stock. The following is just an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XlVNh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XlVNh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Before you tell me to bust out a hand saw:&lt;/strong&gt; I've got ten bits of wood to cut at this angle and they're going into a big lap sandwich. They have to both be exact and consistent. &lt;strong&gt;I'm not yet good enough to do that by hand.&lt;/strong&gt; I know the technique for good cuts, I'm just physically incompetent. There should be no shame in admitting that, but the comments don't want to seem to let that go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So again, my focus here is &lt;strong&gt;consistent accuracy&lt;/strong&gt; and (and it not take &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; day).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My mitre saw is usually the first tool I'd turn to for cross-cutting a thin bit of stock... But most mitre saws can only cut 45-90° cuts. The angles written on them and things like mitre gauges are 90°-offset).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I could use a square block to re-offset against the fence. This would work fine for cleaning up a rough-cut end but there wouldn't be space for the perform a cut halfway down a bit of stock (as pictured).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do also have a number of other tools with mitre gauges (table saw, band saw, router table, etc) that could be re-offset with a square block. The bandsaw has a similar &quot;gets in the way&quot; problem with long stock to the mitre saw fence, and the table saw is currently buried under a pile of rubbish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since opening this question, I made rough cuts by hand and cleaned up with the mitre saw, but it seemed very... Hacky. &lt;strong&gt;Is there a better way do to this?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3990" LastEditorUserId="3990" LastEditDate="2017-11-16T11:26:32.100" LastActivityDate="2019-01-07T17:47:08.863" Title="Can I cut an acute angle, mid-stock with a mitre saw?" Tags="|miter-saw|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6650" CreationDate="2017-11-13T13:03:22.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;your best bet is probably the band saw, since the table is at least a bit larger than the miter saw. You could do this on using the miter gauge (a 45º spacer block will work). Alternatively, and probably preferably since it's more of a rip cut, a tapering jig riding against the fence would do it. for example, see the easily made (on the bandsaw!) jig shown here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/tapered_legs_on_a_planer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/tapered_legs_on_a_planer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2017-11-13T13:03:22.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6650" CreationDate="2017-11-14T06:21:19.470" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can clamp the piece to be cut along with a straight edge clamped parallel to the cut such that your circular saw will cut the line. Assuming your saw is set up squarely, you will be in a position to achieve an excellently square and straight cut at precisely the angle you set up with the straight edge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately, if you have access to a band saw, then that could be used with an adjustable sliding fence in the t-slot on the table or an easily made fixture with an angled block to achieve a good result in a similar fashion to what one might do on a table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet another method would be to use a clamped straight edge as a fence and using a handsaw. The fence, a nice square piece of stock, perhaps a bit taller than one necessary for a circular saw is clamped right next to the line and the hand saw gently held against it as the cut is made. There are a number of ways to keep the saw in line with the fence, the simplest being using ones knuckle, fingers or even a block of wood to keep your hands out of the way. A block of wood is safest and has less friction, aiding smooth action. If you are not comfortable enough with hand saws to have your off hand in such proximity to the blade (one might easily argue that no amount of experience would recommend this) then the block of wood may be secured just to the other side of the cut line opposite the fence to act as a sure guide. In reasonably short-ish cuts, such as that proposed in the question, the drift off of square from the set of the teeth shouldn't be significant and with practice, can be easily compensated for with a bit of attention paid while cutting. If you do find your cuts are drifting off square enough to matter, a small relief chamfer off the bottom corner of the fence and clamped block to provide space for the set of the teeth, will allow the block to be pressed gently against the saw plate thereby mitigating alignment error throughout the cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4327" LastEditorUserId="4327" LastEditDate="2017-11-14T17:18:41.297" LastActivityDate="2017-11-14T17:18:41.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6654" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6655" CreationDate="2017-11-14T11:44:51.967" Score="2" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I'm pretty new to woodwork but ambitious.  I have an ugly wardrobe space I want to turn into a walk in.  So the plan is to pull down the plasterboard wall, create a new one at the end of the sloping roof and put a door in it.  Et voila, walk in.  That part should be pretty straight forward, find the studs, build a frame, attach some plasterboard:-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mheQV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mheQV.png&quot; alt=&quot;My wardrobe now&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using this space, I want to build loads of storage.  I would like to know if there's anything I'm overlooking before pulling down walls.  firstly, there'll be a space where the wall was, what's the best way of covering that on the roof end? A thin layer of ply, replace the whole inside roof?!:-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hh25u.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hh25u.png&quot; alt=&quot;The space created by the removal of the wall&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, I have a storage plan (&lt;em&gt;see last image, although that inside left board needs moved out and obviously the drawers &amp;amp; cupboard on the right wont be hollow&lt;/em&gt;).  I figure some MDF (&lt;em&gt;or something of better quality if I can figure that out&lt;/em&gt;).  What is the best way to support all of these?  Is it the same with the wall?  Find studs and build support beams that I fix to?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PxObR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PxObR.png&quot; alt=&quot;My plan&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've did a fair amount of online research but support beams never seem to be mentioned and I can't see how it would all be stable on it's own.&#xA;Are there any concerns I've missed?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll also be throwing low heat lights up in all compartments and on the flat roof part at the top but that's not too complicated.  Ventalation is another concern but probably beyond the scope of a Woodworking site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2827" LastEditorUserId="2827" LastEditDate="2017-11-14T16:00:19.563" LastActivityDate="2017-11-14T16:46:46.613" Title="Are there any non obvious (specifically structural) concerns to building a walk-in wardrobe" Tags="|technique|stability|installation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6654" CreationDate="2017-11-14T16:46:46.613" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend constructing the center and right pieces as freestanding cabinets. that are built in your shop space and moved to position completed.  That way they will have internal structural integrity adequate to support clothing and accessories. (Make sure they can be moved up stairs and along corridor turns before you build them).  The hanging area at the left may not need to be a cabinet requiring only the dividing wall to support the rods.  You can anchor the dividing  panel at the top, bottom, and left (back) using wood cleats to create a track into which the panel is framed. Since you are exposing the roof rafters you can position 2x4 blocking flush with the bottom of the rafters wherever needed to anchor your cabinets and panels.  The existing flooring should be adequate to support any loads from clothing and other common items stored in a closet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Off topic recommendation:  If you add insulation in the roof cavity, make sure there is a 1&quot; airspace between the top of the insulation and the roof deck above to avoid trapping moisture against the deck.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2017-11-14T16:46:46.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6656" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6657" CreationDate="2017-11-14T23:19:24.500" Score="3" ViewCount="837" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Irwin-Record 9½ block plane which I bought new a year or so ago and have been using and occasionally sharpening the blade on an oilstone. Now the blade-depth adjustment has reached the end of its travel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I adjust the blade depth wheel to the other end (fully retracted blade) and move the blade to the next position, the blade protrudes too far - about 1mm depth of cut. The only way to make this work seems to be to grind down the blade significantly which doesn't seem right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RlocT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RlocT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Composite of six photos of Irwin-Record block plane&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;left = before, right = after&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What might be wrong and how can I fix it?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update following &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/users/2779/scanny&quot;&gt;scanny&lt;/a&gt;'s &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/6657/158&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a vernier caliper, the travel of the fine-adjust tooths without blade installed seems to be about 3mm. The spacing between front edges of all but one of the slots in the blade is about 4mm, so this looks like a design flaw. Maybe Irwin (or their far-away 3rd-party manufacturer) substituted a blade design to save costs somehow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, looking at it, only the first couple of slots can be used before the end of the long slot in the blade hits the lateral adjuster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Older Record blades and the current Ray Iles replacements only have grooves on the rear rather than through-slots and they may have been more finely spaced. I only have this photo to go by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Cf3Z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Cf3Z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;photo of Ray Iles blade for Record block plane&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the long slot in this blade is the same length as that in my Irwin-Record blade (34.3mm), the adjustment grooves are spaced 3mm (centre to centre) and so are a better match to the fine adjustment travel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a dial indicator (as suggested) I measured the travel of the blade installed in the plane when moving the adjustment wheel from top (deepest blade position) to bottom (highest blade position) I measured a total movement of only 1.95mm - say 2mm. This is less than the 3mm travel in adjuster tooths which I measured when the blade was not in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rk80n.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rk80n.png&quot; alt=&quot;Composite of Photos of measuring movement of plane-blade&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;(Plane is clamped down, subdial of indicator shows just under 2mm movement = 2 rotations of main dial for full travel of plane's adjustment wheel. Click for larger image)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is partly because at the top position, the pivot arm hits the underside of the blade before the adjustment wheel reaches the top of it's screw. There's also a large vertical clearance gap between the adjustment wheel and the edges of the corresponding slot in the pivot lever in which the wheel sits - so part of the wheel's travel doesn't move the lever, until the wheel reaches the other side of the clearance gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the spacing of the adjustment slots is 4mm, I can't see how this blade can be moved to the adjacent slot and positioned ready for use without grinding the blade down by 1 or 2 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="158" LastEditorUserId="158" LastEditDate="2017-11-15T21:26:03.130" LastActivityDate="2017-11-15T21:26:03.130" Title="Problems adjusting block plane" Tags="|plane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6656" CreationDate="2017-11-15T01:30:18.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hmm, interesting. Off-hand I'd say that's a design flaw. You could confirm that by measuring (perhaps with a dial-indicator) the full length of blade travel available from the fine-adjust and comparing it to the distance between the slots in the blade. If the slot spacing is longer than the fine-adjust range, then there is a &quot;dead-zone&quot; of blade positions that can't be reached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that case, I'd probably grind off a bit of the end of the blade and move on, and maybe ask for a more carefully designed plane for a holiday present. Rob Cosman likes WoodRiver as a value-priced option, I've often thought I'd give those a hard look if I were in the market again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose you could possibly modify the fine-adjust travel by grinding or filing something down (like the adjustment nut bottom face or the casting boss it contacts at the bottom of its travel), but that seems like a lot of trouble with no clear assurance of reward and of course the risk of screwing something up permanently :).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2017-11-15T01:30:18.953" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6658" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-15T02:45:24.407" Score="2" ViewCount="1352" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been working on a very rustic bookcase made from 100+ year old fence pickets, and I decided to use some red oak for the actual shelves themselves. I have already begun the staining process for two of them, at least two or three hours ago. Every time I go to check on them, there are a bunch of little droplets of tacky stain seeping up from under the wood. My final sanding on these was with 320 grit sandpaper. Would this be enough to keep the wood from absorbing the stain (it is oil based)? Also, I should point out that I used mineral spirits to clean the boards about 20 minutes before I began staining. I am basically a total beginner, so if the answer is extremely obvious, try to be patient with me. Thanks for the help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4392" LastActivityDate="2018-01-14T08:23:46.810" Title="320 Grit Sandpaper TOO fine for oil based finish?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6658" CreationDate="2017-11-15T07:47:49.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;320 is fine to sand to if using an oil-based finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For staining though 320 grit is a bit fine, it isn't the source of this effect it's just that the smoother you sand the surface the less the wood will take the colour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oaks are coarse-grained or open-grained species and some oil will generally exude from the pores and grain structure for a time after application. This generally occurs mostly within the first hour, sometimes over a few hours and more rarely it continues overnight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;American red oak in particular has a pronounced pore structure which tends to make this occur even more than in other oak subspecies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-11-15T07:47:49.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1559" CreationDate="2017-11-15T09:30:18.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another option that I haven't tried is to clamp another floorboard to it, offset by 1/4&quot; and go along the edge with a flush-trim router bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I have now tried this and it is easy and works like a charm. I bought a cheap small router (the best selling one on Amazon, £40) and a pattern bit. A pattern bit is the same as a flush cut bit but the bearing is near the router instead of away from it.. You can use either in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put the boards together on their edges in the floor, then tilt them so they are offset by the desired amount. Clamp them on the top. Then turn them over and get someone to hold them steady and cut! If you have a workbench or something then use that obviously, but I don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bit I got wasn't long enough to do the full depth (20 mm) but the router could easily have handled it if it could. But anyway once you have cut half the depth you can just unclamp the boards and cut again using the already cut part as the pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Kromster says, if you need to cut more than a few mm use a jigsaw to do a rough cut first. I didn't need to in my case because the timber merchants I found cut it to width for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4394" LastEditorUserId="4394" LastEditDate="2017-11-18T09:42:30.343" LastActivityDate="2017-11-18T09:42:30.343" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6661" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-15T18:51:43.923" Score="3" ViewCount="1359" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty much a total amateur when it comes to staining.  My husband hung unfinished pine doors in all our rooms about 8 years ago but never got around to staining (he really is a busy guy so no shaming intended).  Now that I'm retired and have the time I took on the project.  Every door I did came out outstanding (if I say so myself) except of course the last which is the only door visible from the living area.  As I was sanding it outside, a sun shower started and although the door did not get soaked, only sprinkled on, I dried it over a couple of days and then pulled it outside again and gave it a good sanding.  Now I have a freckled door.  I am using Old Masters Gel in Walnut.  Is there anything I can do saving me from having to buy a new door?  Appreciate any input!&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/83U2S.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/83U2S.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4396" LastActivityDate="2021-10-18T00:58:42.637" Title="Blotching like you've never seen before!" Tags="|staining|pine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6662" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-15T19:39:41.023" Score="4" ViewCount="382" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to plan out my first workbench build! Right now, my plan is to laminate a bunch of 2X4's together, smooth them down with my #62 Stanley Sweetheart low-angle jack plane (the only one I own), and attach them to a ledger board that's tap conned to my block wall. For the legs, I am thinking about using a mortise and tenon on some 4X4's, 4X6's, or even 6X6's (the only reason I would use anything larger than a 4X4 would be purely for aesthetics; I am quickly becoming a timber-framing nut). Any suggestions on the initial design or even accessories such as vices, etc? I saw a guy on youtube (wranglerstar) do a bench a lot like this one, but he used some 2X6's coming off of a lower ledger board and up under the table top, kind of like rafters, instead of legs, which I thought was pretty cool too. Any suggestions for improvement would be much appreciated. Thanks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4397" LastActivityDate="2017-11-16T08:11:08.430" Title="Need Advice on Building Workbench" Tags="|workbench|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6663" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6678" CreationDate="2017-11-15T22:26:40.273" Score="2" ViewCount="5712" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am getting close to completing a desk I am building. This has been a very ambitious project for me as this is the first time I have ever built any furniture (shelving not counted) and this is a height-adjustable sit/stand desk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am at a point where I want to start finishing the wood (which is Maple). I have access to a ton of Tung oil my dad picked up for dirt cheap. I also have some polyurethane. I want to seal the wood from water and give it a nice finish. My thoughts were I would use a few layers of Tung oil and then a layer or two of polyurethane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was talking to my dad today and he suggested that I use one or the other, but not both because tung oil is actually a finishing product and will seal the wood for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this true? Or does my original plan make sense? I am also open to suggestions. I believe he said he even had a bunch of linseed oil I could use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1995" LastActivityDate="2017-11-20T20:25:28.453" Title="Using Tung Oil and Polyurethane on Maple?" Tags="|finishing|polyurethane|water-protection|tung-oil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6662" CreationDate="2017-11-16T01:27:15.187" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built a roubo  split top style workbench last year using 2x4's as the top and legs constructed from 3) 2x6 for each leg.  It took a couple moths to fully plan it and nearly as long to build it.  The moral of this story is that a bench is a significant project that requires research, design, revisions, power and hand tools, some mock-ups and skill development to be successful.  I strongly recommend reading a book or two recommended in the 'workbench' information wiki accessed through the tag button.  After you've developed your concept more you can return to this site to ask specific questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based upon what you have mentioned so far, I would comment that a 12' x 2'-2&quot; top will be heavy and might be better served with legs rather than wall brackets. Such a base will also provide more stability for hand planing.  The tools you will need to construct the top could include hand tools such as calipers, a square, chisels and saws, a drill, planer, router, power saw and plenty of clamps.  You should also consider what accessories you will need such as hold-downs and bench vises. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making my work bench was as challenging a project as any I have made using it. Enjoy the experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2017-11-16T01:27:15.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6317" CreationDate="2017-11-16T01:41:27.727" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have a whole lot of experience with this type of thing, but I have heard a lot of people mention that oils really aren't the best type of finish for something that's going to endure a lot of wear, food,... etc, because oils seep into the wood and don't actually provide a lot of protection. I have noticed some people talking about stuff like lacquer, thats food-safe after it cures. This gives a nice protective top layer. Just my thoughts, probably not worth the keyboard they were typed on, but nevertheless coming from a sincere place. Hope this helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4397" LastActivityDate="2017-11-16T01:41:27.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6650" CreationDate="2017-11-16T02:03:08.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I may have a way to do it with your miter saw! clamp a piece of wood to one side of your fence, but not the other. This will turn your actual piece that you are trying to cut, before you even swing your miter saw over. Kind of hard to explain, but once you try this, it should be fairly easy to get the gist. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4397" LastActivityDate="2017-11-16T02:03:08.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1559" CreationDate="2017-11-16T02:34:20.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Table saw or circular saw. If you're using a circular saw you can either use a straight edge, or use the gauge that is engraved into the base of your saw, provided there is one. Just adjust the depth of your blade to barely come out of your piece, move your saw over on the piece of wood till the 1/2&quot; notch is lined up with the edge, clamp down on the base with your thumb and forefinger, and rip away. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4397" LastActivityDate="2017-11-16T02:34:20.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6602" CreationDate="2017-11-16T02:37:49.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say probably the same way you would use oil on any other piece of wood. I do think that oil is a better way to go than varnish or other types of hard sealant because it inhibits the vibration of the wood when you are playing. Oil will let the wood vibrate naturally and will give a more resonant tone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4397" LastActivityDate="2017-11-16T02:37:49.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6670" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-16T04:09:46.083" Score="3" ViewCount="364" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a dining table out of walnut which is highly figured.  What is the best finish so that the table can be used?  I know French Polishing it will really enhance the timber but it seems so fragile and prone to damage, so I wonder if there is anything you can do to protect it and make it more durable and user friendly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4399" LastActivityDate="2018-10-12T14:00:08.487" Title="Can I protect a french polished finish with laquer?" Tags="|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6670" CreationDate="2017-11-16T07:37:29.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may be able to with the right lacquer (or &quot;lacquer&quot;) but you probably don't have the expertise and equipment to apply one to the necessary standard. But that's OK because you can do what you want with polyurethane varnish and that is easily applied to a high standard by thinning it and applying it as wiping varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5891/how-to-fix-very-light-scratches-in-polyurethane-finish/5893#5893&quot;&gt;previous Answer&lt;/a&gt; for more on wiping varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-11-16T07:37:29.177" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6662" CreationDate="2017-11-16T08:11:08.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Right now, my plan is to laminate a bunch of 2X4's together, smooth them down with my #62 Stanley Sweetheart low-angle jack plane (the only one I own), and attach them to a ledger board that's tap conned to my block wall. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good plan. If you do have any significant high spots to remove after lamination plane across the boards or diagonally to start with, then adjust for a lighter cut and work along the length for final flattening. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you're happy with a somewhat rustic appearance to the top you'll probably want to sand to finish off, or in due course further plane the top once you have access to a bevel-down bench plane which controls tearout better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For the legs, I am thinking about using a mortise and tenon on some 4X4's, 4X6's, or even 6X6's &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a general thing anything over a 4x4 is overkill for a bench leg unless you're planning to do really serious heavy work on it (planing material to size from rough stock on a regular basis) and you need it to last for decades. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does go out the window however once a bench is attached to a wall, since the wall attachment will take nearly all the strain — you could probably get away with 2x2s for the legs on a bench rigidly fixed to a wall!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the only reason I would use anything larger than a 4X4 would be purely for aesthetics&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm glad you added that as it is one reason that can trump all others for choosing to go with a heavier leg. If the material is cheap enough that you're comfortable buying it and you like how it looks then that's the only thing that need concern you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any suggestions on the initial design or even accessories such as vices, etc? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is something that will garner opinion-based responses so is outside the scope of what this SE provides. And it really requires some back and forth so a query of this kind is better geared to asking on a conventional woodworking forum which encourages discussion (StackExchange does not).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-11-16T08:11:08.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6650" CreationDate="2017-11-16T18:04:01.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's an awesome tutorial on how to set your mitre saw for weird angles:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PQsPwY-eoFI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PQsPwY-eoFI&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is about making perfect corners for baseboards, but she shows you how to measure so you can make your mitre saw work for odd degrees...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4402" LastActivityDate="2017-11-16T18:04:01.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1559" CreationDate="2017-11-17T00:38:12.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before I had a table saw (and I had misplaced my old circular saw in a move), I used a clamped down straightedge and a jigsaw* to cut the edge of a piece of plywood. The edge was pretty rough, and would have needed some work with a sanding block or hand plane if I had been using it for something fancier than a garden cold frame, but it was a $30 tool that was at hand, rather than a (more dangerous) $40 tool I didn't have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best answer, as others have noted, is a table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;* The hand tool, not the table mounted tool also known as a scroll saw)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4404" LastActivityDate="2017-11-17T00:38:12.157" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1061" CreationDate="2017-11-17T19:52:19.587" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally I'd put the blade only as high as necessary to clear the top of the board being cut. There is, however, one occasion when raising the blade significantly above the work piece is valuable. That would be when you're making a stopped cut. In this case, the higher the blade is, the more vertical the cutting surface is, thus making a cleaner stopping point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2017-11-17T19:52:19.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6676" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6677" CreationDate="2017-11-18T04:25:51.590" Score="0" ViewCount="233" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for the name of this type of firewood. &#xA;These are mostly made from limbs or small trees, about the size of a softball or smaller.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/xGNvbpkI2OE?t=162&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a link to a youtube video that shows two folks making small round firewood.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1426" LastActivityDate="2017-11-18T17:28:10.470" Title="What is round firewood called?" Tags="|wood|burning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6676" CreationDate="2017-11-18T05:39:08.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cordwood is one term that well applies. It means wood cut into uniform lengths, usually for fuel though it can also apply when that sort of wood is used for construction as in cordwood houses.                                             &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The machine itself is a guillotine style wood cutter (not to be confused with guillotine splitter). The one in the video referred to in your question appears quite homemade but there do seem to be commercially produced (or at least commercial quality) guillotine wood cutters around, though they may be custom made by a manufacturer or independent fabricator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4327" LastEditorUserId="4327" LastEditDate="2017-11-18T17:28:10.470" LastActivityDate="2017-11-18T17:28:10.470" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6663" CreationDate="2017-11-18T08:52:42.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As clarified in the Comments above, you appear to have &quot;Tung Oil Finish&quot; which is not tung oil but a commercial blended finish*. As your dad indicated it is intended to be a standalone finish and provides decent protection, certainly enough for what I'd expect a desk of this sort to need (not like a coffee table for example) in a hard wood like maple. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; add further protection to the working surface by applying some polyurethane on top should you want to. The two finishes should be entirely compatible so there are no problems layering them this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Straight polyurethane will add a scratch-resistant surface coating that is significantly more water-resistant, especially to things like hot coffee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Which probably contains zero tung oil, how's that for misleading labelling?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-11-18T08:52:42.720" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6680" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-20T02:49:29.357" Score="6" ViewCount="2159" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am debating whether or not to add an electric hand planer to my tool collection. I realize that using an electric one would be much faster than a traditional hand plane. However, I am not quite sure about the actual performance. Do electric planers typically cause more tearout? Can they get a surface as smooth as a traditional plane? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4397" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2017-11-20T07:53:52.937" LastActivityDate="2017-11-20T08:05:27.873" Title="Traditional Hand Planes Vs. Electric Hand Planer" Tags="|tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6680" CreationDate="2017-11-20T08:05:27.873" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do electric planers typically cause more tearout? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short answer is yes. It's dependent on the wood and the direction you're planing but basically they're little different to floor-mounted planers in this regard. Even the very best of them, adjusted for the lightest cut they're capable of* can't hope to match the performance of a well-set hand plane with a sharp iron and either a tight mouth or a close-set cap iron. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can they get a surface as smooth as a traditional plane?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And one consequence of the above, normally no. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On easy-planing wood the surface can be good enough (which is all that actually matters to most) but if you put the results side by side there's just no comparison. This will especially show on any board with difficult-to-plane areas such as around knots or one covered with difficult grain, such as ribbon-stripe mahogany or curly maple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have their place if you need to remove a fair amount of material fast &lt;em&gt;without much effort&lt;/em&gt; — the right hand planes being perfectly capable of removing wood quickly, just with more sweat equity — but you shouldn't expect anything like a finished surface from one for anything other than rough carpentry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Usually quite a bit thicker than the mere couple of thou you can adjust any well-set hand plane to take.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-11-20T08:05:27.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6682" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-20T19:46:08.227" Score="2" ViewCount="738" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few days ago I asked for opinions about my ideas for construction of a workbench that would be mounted against a wall. I now have another question. I have seen many different videos of great woodworkers and the vast majority of them have freestanding workbenches either near the middle of the room or far enough away from the wall that they can fit comfortably between the two. Would having a wall-mounted workbench obstruct my maneuverability enough to have a negative affect on my work? It has also occurred to me that I could use much more wall space for storage of my tools if I were to move the bench away from the wall. Any comments or suggestions? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4397" LastActivityDate="2017-11-20T22:15:41.217" Title="Workbench better against or away from the wall?" Tags="|workbench|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6663" CreationDate="2017-11-20T20:25:28.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;New member to the forum here. &#xA;Good advice from pervious posters. &#xA;1) My limited experience with maple indicates that it tends to blotch. If that bothers you, use a pre stain conditioner before applying the oil. &#xA;2) Regular Tung oil takes very long to dry and cure. Don’t apply polyurethane before waiting for a few days (week?) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4416" LastActivityDate="2017-11-20T20:25:28.453" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6682" CreationDate="2017-11-20T22:15:41.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My workbench is a roubo split top style bench with a wagon vise along the width and a leg vise at the opposite end of one side.  I use it both for small projects and some larger furniture pieces.  I can perform all operations including planing and hand work from one side and so my bench is against a wall on the other side.  I have storage shelves and hangers for tools above the work surface.  The bench can be pulled away from the wall if I need the full depth of the bench for any project. Reaching for tools is a bit of stretch then, but the split top allows easy access to tools in active use.  If I had more room I would have located the bench with full access, but I do not really suffer with the current arrangement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is really a question of how much room do you have and how to best arrange everything in it for functionality. When I planned my workshop I began with a paper model including cutouts for each major component I would need (tablesaw, band saw, bench etc.)  I then explored layouts based upon the sequence of work, material movement, access to each component and special needs such as a clean finishing area.  There are always multiple solutions each with some necessary compromises. I ended up putting my heavy power tools on wheeled bases and have, from time to time, rearranged components for special project setups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2017-11-20T22:15:41.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6685" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6702" CreationDate="2017-11-21T19:02:23.883" Score="1" ViewCount="8822" Body="&lt;p&gt;i am new to wood working and just made my first wood table. I was trying to calculate how much weight will it hold on its top but i cannot reach any conclusion. So if any of you have any experience about the calculations, a rough estimation of approximate minimum / maximum weight that it can behold will be very helpfull.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The table is made of teak wood (legs and side beams)&#xA;And is finished of with a 18mm plywood on top (which i think is heavy)&#xA;The wood bars are of 2x2 and 1x3 and are joined only by screws (2.5~3 inches long) and wood glue.&#xA;The pics shows how its joined.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aZqPH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4SXTu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WBBeR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MyOGF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4422" LastActivityDate="2017-12-16T15:57:14.247" Title="Guess How much Weight the table can hold" Tags="|glue|screws|table-making|strength|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6689" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6690" CreationDate="2017-11-22T05:49:08.373" Score="1" ViewCount="2465" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the slab shown in the pics below.  During the drying/curing process it developed many micro cracks a few larger (some through-slab) cracks.  These cracks exist on both the main surfaces and on the live edge itself (one or two with some minor instability...should enough pressure be applied).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've worked on one slab before this so I am a novice as of yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love the character the cracks add to the slab and am curious about two things w.r.t. using 105/205 West System resin as to fill cracks on it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Will filling cracks with resin visually add or detract? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Would filling with 105/205 West resin add any real strength?  I just bought the slab and while it seems thoroughly dried, I'm uncertain as to whether new cracks will inevitably form due to the type of wood that it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) How does one fill the live-edge side of the slab with resin while avoiding bleeding of the resin into the wood surrounding the cracks?  The bleeding normally of course needs heavy sanding to remove, but I'm afraid of this heavy sanding due to concerns of destroying the feel/look of the live edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) General thoughts on how best to approach this slab to bring out its full beauty/potential?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I've investigated this similar SO post, but the answer seems rather unhelpful as far as how to best manage edge-resin-fills: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4380/can-you-fill-cracks-in-the-side-of-a-live-edge-slab?newreg=1402df93ef3a4d8fa80887c8d3bc91fc&quot;&gt;Can you fill cracks in the side of a live edge slab&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GzKKx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GzKKx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n3yqG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n3yqG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h38IR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h38IR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;some cracks on edge at far that can&amp;#39;t be seen&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4432" LastActivityDate="2021-02-26T23:37:41.307" Title="To Resin or Not To Resin (Cracked Gum Wood)" Tags="|wood-repair|filler|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6689" CreationDate="2017-11-22T07:43:17.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just read over my Answer and TL;DR warning I guess!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Will filling cracks with resin visually add or detract? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Totally a personal call. Some people don't mind open cracks (somewhat depending on how open they are) while others seem to need any and all cracks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filling cracks opens up a range of possible decorative choices, from the very common dark brown or black to something that will stand out, to make more of a feature of them, so strongly coloured, filled with crushed semi-precious stones like turquoise, or metal powders including stainless steel, nickel, brass or bronze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would filling with 105/205 West resin add any real strength? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not in surface checks. Yes for cracks that run through, but butterfly keys or anything similar probably add greater reinforcement that is more likely to endure in the long term. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if you don't like the look of butterfly keys or any alternatives they can be installed on the underside and not the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I just bought the slab and while it seems thoroughly dried, I'm uncertain as to whether new cracks will inevitably form due to the type of wood that it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best to adopt a wait-and-see position and leave it in your working conditions for a while. If your workshop has lower humidity than where the slab was last stored (reasonably likely) then I'd bet more cracks will show, or one or two of the existing ones will open up further. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now how long to wait... well that's partly up to how long you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; wait, but given the thickness I would suggest at least a couple of months. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How does one fill the live-edge side of the slab with resin while avoiding bleeding of the resin into the wood surrounding the cracks? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good tip is to lightly finish the surface of the wood around the fill site&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. Excess epoxy won't penetrate much or at all and will be much easier to pare, file, scrape or sand from the surface as well. Shellac is probably the best choice for this, although you can use other finishes and they'll work equally well shellac can be applied very accurately by brush and dries really quickly so virtually no wait time before you can proceed to the next step. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The bleeding normally of course needs heavy sanding to remove&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to note, on any flat surfaces planing or scraping are other ways this can be done and it's easily argued are better choices for the usual reasons (if you need just one good one, speed alone is enough to prefer them to sanding). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While some sanding of the surface is almost certainly going to be needed regardless of the approach taken to get the majority off it reduces it to a minimum which is a good general position to adopt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;General thoughts on how best to approach this slab to bring out its full beauty/potential?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil or an oil finish are the ideal finishes to bring out the full beauty of wood grain. Even when using shellac (including full-on French polishing) previous treatment of the wood with oil is common as it increases contrast and enhances chatoyancy to the greatest degree, often now referred to collectively as &quot;popping the grain&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you'll be finishing in polyurethane varnish, or any other oil-based varnish, there's probably no benefit to oiling the wood in advance, but you'd should do a test to confirm this. Use the underside for any tests like this, or an offcut if there is one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just as a closing comment, this doesn't look like it was dried well and it's that which directly led to many of the cracks (one or two are often inevitable). If other pieces of similar wood from the same source show the same defects&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; I wouldn't buy any from them again unless there's a price consideration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; You may have to treat the whole area, remembering that any wood treated this way will be partially sealed so any penetrating finish used for final finishing won't colour it the same as untreated wood around it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; While the current taste often sees cracks as 'features' it shouldn't be forgotten they are &lt;em&gt;defects&lt;/em&gt; and good, careful, drying methods largely avoid them. Since cracks are defects they should be a factor in pricing so look for a discount when any number are present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-11-22T07:43:17.210" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6691" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-22T16:03:00.837" Score="4" ViewCount="397" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased two diamond sharpening stones from amazon. One of them was a medium grit (600) and the other was a fine grit (1200). They arrived in the mail about a week ago. When I unboxed them I noticed that neither one was labeled for its specific grit, and to the touch, they both feel exactly the same.... How do I figure out which is which? I haven't used them yet... Would I be better suited just giving them both try and see which one puts a finer polish on my chisels? I guess that should tell me, but any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. By the way, they are not the DMX diamond sharpening stones, they were the &quot;Ultra Sharp II Diamond Stone Kit - Medium and Extra Fine&quot;. In fact, I am actually looking at the product on Amazon right now, and the one's in their picture clearly are easy to tell apart just by looking at them.... Do you think they might have sent me two stones with the same grit by mistake?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4397" LastActivityDate="2018-06-17T22:15:14.290" Title="deciphering different grits of diamond-plated sharpening stones" Tags="|tool-maintenance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6692" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6694" CreationDate="2017-11-23T06:09:43.730" Score="2" ViewCount="500" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an air nailer/stapler capable of shooting, obviously, nails or staples. I've been using the nailer functionality quite often, to good effect, but I'm curious as to why someone would use the stapler function instead. Are there certain special conditions in which a stapler would be better than a nailer? Can the stapler function be used instead of a traditional stapler for certain uses (Boxes (On a low enough pressure), or for anchoring wires to projects?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3800" LastActivityDate="2017-11-29T01:53:03.763" Title="Air Nails or Staples?" Tags="|nails|pneumatic-nailer|air-tools|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6692" CreationDate="2017-11-23T06:40:20.843" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Staples generally are for attaching thin material to a surface. So for wood (sort of) stapling can be used to tack on hardboard where appearance isn't important. The primary woodworking-related function may be for upholstery work, for both the webbing and fabrics or leather coverings. But bottom line is that staples could be used for anything they're capable of holding since there aren't any Fastener Police to tell us otherwise ^_^&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-11-23T06:40:20.843" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6692" CreationDate="2017-11-23T08:54:28.733" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;One realm where staples shine is when attaching a material that lacks the suitable structure to reliably hold under expected strains within the locus of a single, small headed brad. A staple distributes stresses across a wider area thereby including more material in the join. Thin, weaker materials such as paper, cardboard, and plastic sheeting are examples that are often best attached with staples. Another common use is to secure cloth to a hard material. The woven structure of cloth might let a wire brad slip through but a staple will capture a number of threads thus holding securely. Securing wires is indeed yet another example of staples ability to capture and hold an otherwise problematic material structure. Air staplers can usually be tuned to an acceptable depth so long as the staple has ample room for the wire with sufficient additional length for holding in the substrate. Great care should be exercised in this application and in some cases, such as electrical wire, it may not be worth the risk of damage to the insulation. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt; Aesthetics is another consideration when choosing nails or staples. In some instances, the holding strength of a staple might be superior but a nail may be sufficient and their lower visibility is desirable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4327" LastEditorUserId="4327" LastEditDate="2017-11-29T01:53:03.763" LastActivityDate="2017-11-29T01:53:03.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6697" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-24T15:37:55.143" Score="6" ViewCount="160" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the much-maligned Makita MLT100 table saw. For all its faults, after a fair amount of fettling I've got it working fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I've taken to stopping the saw by turning off the switch at the wall. This has a few advantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It turns off the shop vac connected to the same outlet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It triggers the safety cutout plug I use (so simply switching back on doesn't actually turn on the power).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It means I lean AWAY from the saw to stop it, rather than bending down and in TOWARDS THE SPINNING BLADE OF DEATH to turn it off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have three young children around, and it's a 3-step process to start the saw:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn on outlet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn on safety breaker (at which point the shop vac will come on, as it was switched on all along).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start saw using green button on the saw itself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found that the green/red power switch on the saw itself appears to turn itself off when power is cut (this makes sense - in the case of power coming back after a power cut, you wouldn't want your table saw starting itself back up!), and the brake still kicks in as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question is - is there any potential for trouble using this method? Either a danger I've not thought of, or damage to the equipment I haven't considered?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3516" LastEditorUserId="3516" LastEditDate="2017-11-24T16:14:47.283" LastActivityDate="2017-11-24T20:31:28.913" Title="Stopping a table saw by turning off at the outlet" Tags="|table-saw|safety|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6697" CreationDate="2017-11-24T20:31:28.913" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not a problem at all, generally speaking. I would ensure that the switch you are you using is properly rated for the load so that it doesn't arc when you trip the switch.  A light switch is probably not the right switch to use here.  And as a general disclaimer, if in doubt, check with a licensed electrician.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many tools use magnetic switches, which as you noticed, unlatch when the power is removed in order to prevent them starting up again in events like short power outages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2017-11-24T20:31:28.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6650" CreationDate="2017-11-24T21:39:32.070" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem with using the mitre saw is that at acute angles you lose length of cut and jig set up can lack stability and safety. You need to clear your table saw. It is the safest most useful tool in your shop. Make a plywood sled that tracks in the T square slot opposite the fence. Glue a 3/4&quot; wide X3/8 thick ply strip to one face of a decent piece of European birch ply 1/4 to 3/8 thick 30&quot; X 24&quot; parallel to the long edge. Such that when you run it by the saw the. First time. The saw trims the sled edge perfectly flush with the kerf of the cut. Make sure the tracking strip is just slightly loose so it won't bind in the slot. Wax the runner strip and the bottom of the sled. If you don't have an out feed table you will be limited to smaller cuts. I have built both in feed and out feed tables flush with the height of my table saw. I keep them smooth and waxed so every thing slides easily. When using the sled, over hanging ends of pieces to be cut can be supported by waxed shims you should keep on hand. Don't wax the top surface of the sled. Masking tape can be used to position stock though downward hand pressure usually suffices. Keep your saw sharp. Use reasonably dry stable stock to avoid a bind or if the wood has built in stress rough cut and then trim to your line. This is an extremely useful technique. The infeed and outfeed tables allow one man to safely cut much larger peices. Using the sled allows you to place a piece of stock at any angle to your saw's line of cut. The length of cut is limited by the length of travel of the sled. Your outfeed table if there is one will need to have carefully routed extensions of the T slot to extend the controlled slide of your sled. These slots should be waxed as well. To glue the sled strip to the sled platform put the strip in the slot with a thin shim full length that raises the strip just a hair proud of the saw table run a thin, 1/16&quot; bead of glue along the strip and place the sled on top with about 1/8&quot; overlapping the kerf of the saw and place some weight on it till the glue sets up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4440" LastEditorUserId="4440" LastEditDate="2017-11-25T01:41:06.403" LastActivityDate="2017-11-25T01:41:06.403" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2175" CreationDate="2017-11-24T23:39:49.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have worked with both poplar and maple cambia as it is called here in Portland. Carmalizing kills the wood in a way. I believe it breaks the cell walls. Gluing and fastening are OK figuring for a small amount of loss in strength. The memory quality is lost - much harder to swell a ding back out. I made a chair out of the maple cambia ( a very good test) and it is plenty strong. My biggest complaint comes with finishing tho. Because of the broken cell walls the surface of the wood is much more porous. I like polimerizing oil finish. These woods seem to have no bottom when it comes to absorbing solvents and oils. As a result way more finish is trapped near the surface and it takes a lot more finish to fill the surface. And drying time is much delayed. From a day in normal wood to a week or more till the smell of offgassing goes away. Milling is OK. I personally don't notice more tearout, splintering or brittle behavior. But I have only made a few pieces with it so far. I do like the deep burnt color a lot. It is quite consistent and much less expensive than walnut or dark tropicals. My current opinion is mixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4440" LastActivityDate="2017-11-24T23:39:49.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6691" CreationDate="2017-11-25T19:39:15.667" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some diamond plates use color to identify. Lacking that use a Jewller's loupe (magnifying eye piece). I must say years ago I moved to using Japanese water stones. They are made by King as well as others. NOTHING else works better. They cut fast in coarser grades ( 700 - 1200) and polish to a mirror in fine grades ( 5000 - 10000 ) even with years of experience I found they are better than Diamond. One reason is they slowly wear away into a thick slurry which not only evens and lubricates the cutting, but constantly exposes new sharp grit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4440" LastActivityDate="2017-11-25T19:39:15.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6685" CreationDate="2017-11-25T19:52:04.910" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking back I am amazed how strong my earliest funky furniture was. Screws and glue good. Teak, strong. Tho Teak has oils in it that can compromise some glues (I wash joints in acetone before gluing Teak). Your table, if square, on the level, can hold a non point evenly distributed load of (just an educated guess here)a thousand pounds to failure. (Stand back!) I would add sheer glued and screwed diagonal bracing or if appearance is important wider and additional skirt or plinth rails also sheer glued and screwed as opposed to butt jointed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4440" LastActivityDate="2017-11-25T19:52:04.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6703" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6705" CreationDate="2017-11-26T05:07:43.067" Score="1" ViewCount="3244" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am getting to the end stages of building a desk out of maple. Should I use a wood conditioner on my maple wood before applying tung oil finish or polyurethane?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried a bit of both on a test piece of wood and so far I have not noticed any blotching or other issues. But they are smaller pieces of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will be applying this to a large sheet of inch-thick maple plywood for the surface as well as the legs which are made out of maple boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1995" LastActivityDate="2017-11-26T07:07:37.630" Title="Should I use a conditioner on maple before applying tung oil finish or polyurethane?" Tags="|finishing|staining|polyurethane|tung-oil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6602" CreationDate="2017-11-26T06:09:36.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I am not a luthier. My good friend Charles Fox is one of the top luthiers in the US he lacquers his guitars, acoustic and solid bodies.&#xA;From my limited understanding oil dampens the resonance of the wood while lacquer or French polish accentuate the natural resonance of the wood which enhances tone and sustain in a guitar. This is of course more important in an acoustic guitar. But even in a solid body electric I wouldn't take the chance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4440" LastActivityDate="2017-11-26T06:09:36.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6703" CreationDate="2017-11-26T07:07:37.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's sold as &quot;wood conditioner&quot; is also called &quot;pre-stain conditioner&quot; as mentioned in a Comment on a previous Question, and as the second name better implies they're intended to reduce/prevent blotching in blotch-prone woods &lt;em&gt;when staining&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're not staining, so no need for 'conditioning' the wood beforehand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also important to understand what &quot;wood conditioners&quot; are made from. Almost all are just a very dilute finish, e.g. thinned varnish*. So there's literally no difference to what one will do to the wood versus applying a normal polyurethane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Tung Oil Finish&quot; can itself be used to 'condition' wood, so again no benefit to be gained by pre-sealing the wood beforehand with something else. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Obviously this is something the manufacturers don't want buyers to know since some will have the bright idea that they can make the same thing themselves by thinning some varnish and using that instead. And they're right, because that's exactly what was done in the past for this purpose, see closing comment &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1020/should-you-always-use-pre-stain/1052#1052&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-11-26T07:07:37.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6706" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-28T03:59:09.210" Score="2" ViewCount="6570" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a pine desk/table (with handtools, so far) with a breadboard end design. One end piece does not sit flush with the tabletop everywhere along the entire width of the panel (32&amp;quot; or so). Out of impatience, I gave up on tweaking the shoulders to get the perfect fit along both (cosmetic) shoulders of the tabletop (top/under).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QfkWn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QfkWn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;the gap in the table top (not scraped, not sanded)&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that it's closed up, the gap is noticeable. I also feel that debris will get lodged there. But maybe not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to cover that gap. Is making a clean groove with a plough plane and placing an inlay between the top and breadboard end a technically feasible option at this point? What about inserting wedges, or running some sort of bead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see using filler is recommended in other similar questions, but it is reported to crack within a year or two, as the panel narrows/widens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plan is to finish it with oil, and I wonder how much of the gap will be covered by the finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;How to avoid in the future?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a chance to fix the problem on the other side of the table, as I haven't closed up the other end yet -- I'm including an image of the construction (same as the one that's closed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To close them, I have a 2&amp;quot;-wide strip of glue only on the center tenon, and 3/8&amp;quot; dowels. The dowels going through the non-center tenons can slide in elongated holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only tools I have at my disposal for this, are a skillsaw (and jig) and handtools/planes (handsaws, paring chisels, bench #4, #5, block, and rabbet). I've tried using my rabbet plane as a shoulder plane along the width of the table to make the wall truly square, but running perpendicular to the grain creates tearout along the cosmetic shoulder of the table -- so I feel i'm trading one problem for another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xk86Z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xk86Z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I gave up on fixing the long edge gap, and will leave it as is (for now). However, after cutting the horns of my breadboard ends on either side of the table, my subpar chiselling of the mortise haunch became extremely obvious -- and I decided it was worth it to try the &amp;quot;thick shaving method&amp;quot; there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I handsawed off the horns a few mm over on each side -- to allow for some error. Some decide to leave longer breadboard ends to create a design element/feature out of them, or decide to enclose the haunch completely, but I wanted them flush and I wanted to be able to see the haunch. Anticipating some end grain planing, I pared the corners of the horns off with a chisel to prevent breakout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f37A1m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f37A1m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Before planing the horns&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f37A1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;(larger)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I got closer to being flush, I switched to sanding. And I started to notice how bad the gaps were, with the dust accumulating in the gaps, (in the image, the white sand dust outlines the gap around the haunch):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FMv2sm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FMv2sm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;horns sanded down exposed gaps&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FMv2s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;(larger)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I couldn't produce shavings/sliver thick enough with the plane, so I produced them by paring with a chisel on a spare piece of wood, and adjusted the thickness of the created thin wedge with sandpaper. I applied glue only the breadboard-end side, wedged the shim into the gap, trimmed it and sanded it flush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe I could have glued just the haunch side instead, but the fibers would have needed to be oriented the other way, and it's easier to wedge in parallel with the breadboard end grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LdLqLm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LdLqLm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sliver wedged into the gap&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LdLqL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;(larger)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In retrospect I should have switched from the plane to the sanding block sooner, because the last few runs with the plane pulled some fibres out around the edge, as can be seen in the upper lip of the mortise, in the form of little &amp;quot;craters&amp;quot;. It would have also looked better if I'd picked wedges that matched the end grain zebra pattern, but it was quite a puzzle already -- again, more patience would have helped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit 2&lt;/strong&gt;: It's been a few months already, and I'm noticing that the table width of the top shrinks and expands by about 1/16&amp;quot; on each side of the table (average width of 30&amp;quot;), varying with indoor humidity. The glued wedges are holding up so far. This was expected from the start, but the breadboard end length is not always flush with the table. I like to think of it as a built-in *digital hygrometer feature . I sanded the horns flush around the holiday season, so it might be the gift that keeps on giving, depending on how the finish affects it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*digital, as in: you can read it by passing your digits over it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2018-04-24T19:04:00.393" Title="Fixing mistake: Filling the gap in a breadboard end on tabletop" Tags="|joinery|hand-tools|traditional-techniques|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6706" CreationDate="2017-11-28T08:45:20.983" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, well done on building your breadboard ends properly. Far too often these days they're not done right&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I see using filler is recommended in other similar questions, but it is reported to crack within a year or two, as the panel narrows/widens&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's always the potential for fillers (most of which are brittle) to crack and this is the ultimate case when you can guarantee it would happen because it's a cross-grain situation where one side of the joint is subject to significant movement and the other side almost none.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try filling with wax or with a wax-based filler&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. Wax fillers can be soft enough that they don't crack easily, so they'll take some movement, but I don't think this is the best option (see last point in this section of the Answer for what I think is).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The plan is to finish it with oil, and I wonder how much of the gap will be covered by the finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially zero. Oil, or an oil finish, doesn't build up at all that you'd notice (once the excess has been wiped away as is essential for a good result). This is in their nature, they're very thin finishes that are more in the wood than on the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would just leave it if you can get past how it looks. Many tables have grooves in their surfaces and while there is of course the potential to trap dust, crumbs etc. it's not too difficult to brush them out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's inherent to a table of this kind, made from construction-quality pine, to be a little rustic and IMO on such a table a cosmetic gap like this isn't a big deal, but only your opinion on this matters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do want to fill it I think the best way would be with a slip of veneer, or a thick plane shaving if you can make one (doesn't have to be one long continuous shaving). On the existing gap it wouldn't be easy to fit it neatly, glued only to the breadboard end side, but it's doable in theory at least and will maintain the separation of long-grain and end-grain surfaces. Once planed flush it should be practically invisible even if you know to look for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Out of impatience, I gave up on tweaking the shoulders to get the perfect fit along both (cosmetic) shoulders of the tabletop (top/under).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For next time, concentrate your efforts only on the top. The underside doesn't have to be perfect because it's not structural and it will virtually never be seen, certainly never looked at critically. Think of all the ugly connection hardware and fixings hidden on the underside of factory-made tables that most folks are unaware of, and those that do know forget about them in no time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With hand-made tables it isn't that uncommon for the underside of a tabletop not to be fully smoothed or finished off, in extreme cases with visible planing tracks from a jack plane. If that sort of texture is acceptable I think you can forgive yourself a gap along the shoulder of a breadboard end on a farmhouse-style table!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've tried using my rabbet plane as a shoulder plane along the width of the table to make the wall truly square, but running perpendicular to the grain creates tearout along the cosmetic shoulder of the table -- so I feel i'm trading one problem for another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleanly cutting the surface ahead of doing the planing will prevent it lifting surface fibres. You're creating what Paul Sellers calls a 'knife wall' and one of its purposes is to give a very neat appearance where it matters most (the surface inside the joint can be, often will be, rougher where it doesn't show and doesn't matter). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Some of the worst examples being those screwed firmly in place along the whole length using pocket screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Wax, sanding dust or other filler material, made into a paste with mineral spirits, or turpentine if you prefer the smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-11-28T08:45:20.983" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6708" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6712" CreationDate="2017-11-28T09:56:17.077" Score="4" ViewCount="4956" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What's a quick, easy, home-made honing guide for sharpening blades for e.g. a plane?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking for a 25 degree surface, just cut a block of wood to 25 degrees on a mitre-saw and then screw the plane blade flat to it with the blade end just proud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally it would then have some sort of roller underneath so as not to have to do the work of sanding the block itself while sharpening - perhaps cut a rebate and insert a wooden roller?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an easier / better design?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4451" LastActivityDate="2022-05-18T07:20:20.323" Title="What's a quick, easy home-made honing guide?" Tags="|sharpening|plane|tool-maintenance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6708" CreationDate="2017-11-28T13:10:09.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;you mention sanding, so I'm inferring that you're using a sandpaper on glass method. Brent Beach has a pretty simple jig for such situations: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www3.telus.net/BrentBeach/Sharpen/station.html#jig&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www3.telus.net/BrentBeach/Sharpen/station.html#jig&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VGBfV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VGBfV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other designs abound... but the &quot;eclipse&quot; style jig is really pretty decent and costs around $12...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-11-30T03:38:23.750" LastActivityDate="2017-11-30T03:38:23.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6706" CreationDate="2017-11-28T13:22:04.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other options for preventing/minimizing this in the future/other side:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Drawbore the tenons. The thin breadboard end - in softwoods - should flex enough to close up a lot of these gaps. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Undercut the shoulder of the top, and undercut the side of breadboard end. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combine the two, and you could probably get away with a really messy joint that nevertheless closes up nice and tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2017-11-28T13:22:04.933" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6708" CreationDate="2017-11-29T08:40:55.433" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm thinking for a 25 degree surface, just cut a block of wood to 25 degrees on a mitre-saw and then screw the plane blade flat to it with the blade end just proud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Close, this is nearly all that's required but the details are different. One needs to be able to adjust honing angle for various applications (and sometimes on the fly) so it's best not to cut a honing guide to lock in a fixed angle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, because fixing the plane iron or chisel firmly to the block is so important for consistency that aspect of the design needs to be implemented well, but the jig is still a very simple thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; honing angle is commonly 30°, not 25°. The latter is usually the primary bevel or grinding angle. You can however choose to hone at steeper or shallower angles for various tools and different applications (e.g. steeper for mortise chisels to take being pounded into wood, shallower for paring chisels which are only pushed by hand).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ideally it would then have some sort of roller underneath so as not to have to do the work of sanding the block itself while sharpening - perhaps cut a rebate and insert a wooden roller?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A roller isn't necessary if the bottom edge or corner of the honing guide does not rub up against the sharpening media. If you are honing using abrasive papers or films this is fairly easy to ensure because the guide can run on the glass/granite/laminate surface the abrasive is stuck to but it takes a bit more thought if using diamond plates or any kind of stone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take all the above points together and you end up with a very simple, but brilliant, honing guide. Variations of this design, now made famous by Brent Beach, are given in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3670/bench-grinder-tool-sharpener-or-sharpening-stone/3701#3701&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt; that you might like to look at for more info, but I'll include the picture here again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x57cE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x57cE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shop-made sharpening guide&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this era where it's so common to think that throwing money at problems is the sure route to fixing them, I think it's worth highlighting again that the results possible with a jig like this (free or nearly so!) are just as good as those using any commercial honing guide, regardless of how much it costs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-11-29T08:40:55.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6713" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-29T18:09:40.140" Score="2" ViewCount="4652" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hate asking this here as I am sure it is a silly question for most of you, but I am new to woodworking and I am unable to find the correct combination of words in my google search to get the answer I am looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, what is the correct technique / trick, and what tools do I need for measuring and cutting the strips of wood that form the &quot;X&quot; on the face of the cabinet doors in the below photo:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xHeeO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xHeeO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I could accomplish the look but I am sure there are some helpful tips for getting the angles quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a miter saw and a couple different types of squares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4473" LastActivityDate="2021-11-08T01:01:24.717" Title="Technique for mitering X or Cross onto door" Tags="|technique|miter-joint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6713" CreationDate="2017-11-30T00:49:35.000" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't try to measure it. Mark it. And mind the kerf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the trick to most woodworking, actually. You don't measure nearly as often as you just hold one piece up to another and mark the location to be cut. You measure for the rough dimensions, of course. But when cutting it to the precise size and shape you need, you mark it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you already have the frame of the door and just want to add the X, start with the long board first. Lay the door frame on a flat surface, and place the long leg of the X where you want it to go. The board should be long enough that it protrudes from both sides a little bit. Using something that will make a fine line (like a sharp pencil or a mechanical pencil), mark the &lt;em&gt;outside&lt;/em&gt; of the line to cut, such that when you line up the saw blade, the blade will touch the line but won't go over it. The goal here is to account for the kerf of the blade. When cutting with any kind of saw, you must keep in mind that the blade will turn the channel it is cutting into sawdust. Most table saws and miter saws have blades that are about 1/8&quot;. But don't try to measure it; just line the kerf up on the waste side of the cut. You want to mark the board so the mark is inside the kerf that will be cut away (so you don't have to deal with marks on your work piece later), and position the cut in such a way that the kerf isn't cutting away the part of the board you intend to keep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that for the cuts on the first side, it won't matter if you miss your mark by a bit as long as you get the angles right. If the angles are right, it should still fit. So if you forget to account for the kerf on the first side, it won't matter as much, because you can just shift the board up a little bit (assuming you have enough length on the other end!). But it is &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; important for the second side of the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've cut the first side, lay the board back on the door frame. The angle on that side should fit into the corner pretty closely, but you still have the other side of the board sticking past its corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now it's time to mark the other side. Before you do, make sure the board is sitting level so you aren't marking at an angle. If the X will be flush with the frame, you're in luck, because you can take one of the offcuts you just produced and place it under the board to raise it so it sits flush against the corner. Make sure the side you've already cut lines up precisely where it will end up. Now, mark the cut on this side. For the second side, I'd recommend making the first cut of the angle, taking it back to the frame, and marking the second cut. That way if one cut of the angle is off, the other one doesn't necessarily have to be off, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repeat this process for the short legs of the X. Show the board to the frame (which means, take it to the frame and place it where it goes), mark the first cut, cut on the saw. Show the board to the frame again, mark the second cut, cut it on the saw. Leave the board long so if you're off more than you like, you can cut it off and start over. When you are satisfied with the angle, make your final cut be the one that matches up to the long leg of the X. Then repeat this for the other short leg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something to note: In finer woodworking, many people mark their boards with marking knives, which leave a much tighter line (and which have other advantages, like giving you a notch to line up a chisel to widen the line on the correct side of the kerf, that will also be used to start a hand saw without the saw wandering to the wrong place as it gets started). But for a beginner, this is almost certainly overkill. As you get more practiced at woodworking, your eye gets better, and your desire for tighter tolerances increases. I felt I should mention it so you'd know that alternate techniques exist should you wish to learn them. And also so nobody comes at me for recommending a pencil line! But for beginners, this is what I would recommend. You can erase or sand a pencil line (usually -- not always, though, which is why I'm recommending you place the pencil marks on the side that will be cut away). But it's harder to clean up a knife mark done wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2017-11-30T14:49:59.120" LastActivityDate="2017-11-30T14:49:59.120" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6716" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6718" CreationDate="2017-11-30T05:27:17.753" Score="2" ViewCount="1055" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm somewhat curious about framing nailer angles &amp;amp; framing nails. I see that they come in a variety of angles, and the nails that they fire tend to be different as well. I've also heard that despite this, there isn't much difference between framing nailers aside from how close you can fit the gun into a frame due to the angle of the magazine. I've also observed that there are several nail types, each with a different nail-nail attachment method (Such as paper, or plastic connectors between them). From my observations, I think that the paper stays with the nail when it is shot, and prevents water intrusion into the wood target, whereas the plastic just fragments on launch and impact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the differences between framing nailer angles, and their magazine nail types, and what different applications are they used for? When should one type be used over the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3800" LastActivityDate="2017-12-01T13:33:29.587" Title="Framing Nail/Nailer Angles/Types?" Tags="|nailing|air-tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="132" CreationDate="2017-12-01T08:04:58.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just finished a small sidecar sleeper crib for my baby. The sidecar sleeper is made from red oak and finished with beaswax and tungoil blend at a 4:1 ratio. The beaswax and tungoil had a strong smell that took a few days to go away. Looks great and is totally safe provided she doesnt have a tung oil alergy, so far we are good.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DgrOS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4493" LastActivityDate="2017-12-01T08:04:58.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6716" CreationDate="2017-12-01T13:33:29.587" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;21 Degree nailers are the most common.  They fire full head nails held together with a plastic strip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;34 degree nailers can use full or clipped head nails.  The strips are held together with paper.  Clipped head nails are not allowed for framing in many jurisdictions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;28 degree nailers are pretty much a Bostitch only size.  The nails are held together with wire, and require somewhat more space than the other two types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that framing nailers are not approved for attaching structural brackets, such as hurricane clips and joist hangers.  The nails are not thick enough.  For those, you need either a specific Metal Fastener gun, such as the Paslode Positive Placement nailer, a palm nailer, or with a hammer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which you use is really just personal preference.  There is no &quot;sealing&quot; done by any of the nails - framing structure is not supposed to be exposed to weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2017-12-01T13:33:29.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6586" CreationDate="2017-12-01T20:10:48.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's another option: put the top on while it's wet and swelled. I use &quot;wet&quot; in relative terms.. it just needs to be at or near maximum expansion. That way it only moves in one direction relative to those legs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But i have to agree with the last two sentences in Graphus's response...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2017-12-01T20:10:48.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6720" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6721" CreationDate="2017-12-01T21:46:32.973" Score="2" ViewCount="21735" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to start using pocket holes to join wood together, but I'm not certain as to what length pocket hole screws are used for general joinery/fabrication. I'm interested in making things like small tables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What length screws are used for general fabrication? Is there a significant difference in length vs holding power? What length is good for building things like a small table (Around 1m^2 area)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3800" LastActivityDate="2017-12-01T22:52:38.460" Title="What Length Pocket Hole Screws Are Generally Used?" Tags="|fasteners|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6720" CreationDate="2017-12-01T22:48:52.083" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer depends on how much wood you need the screw to go through in the stock that you drill the hole in, plus how deep you want it to penetrate into the receiving stock. There's no single answer to give, but here's a big chart from Kreg that breaks down different common scenarios and the suggested screw length:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CK28J.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CK28J.png&quot; alt=&quot;https://www.kregtool.com/files/newsletters/kregplus/Images/february12/selecting-the-correct-screw.pdf&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Image credit: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kregtool.com/files/newsletters/kregplus/Images/february12/selecting-the-correct-screw.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kreg Tool Company&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3830" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2017-12-01T22:52:38.460" LastActivityDate="2017-12-01T22:52:38.460" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6722" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-02T03:26:18.067" Score="3" ViewCount="2714" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just started cutting, sanding, and staining premium pine craft wood from Lowe's to make my hand painted signs. I do hand lettering and use water based acrylic paint pens and sometimes gel pens. I tried putting on polyurethane with a cloth, but lost the stark-whiteness of my lettering. I've not tried it on the gel ink. So, then I thought I just wouldn't use a protective coat and just let people know to be careful. Now, I'm second guessing that and would like to find something that will work with different mediums. I do not want a shiny finish. I also need it to be something I can do that won't need to be in an outside space for extended time as I currently do all my wood work outside in the open, I don't have a covered outdoor work space to let things set. (hope that makes sense)  I have seen some sprays on the market, which seems like an easy choice, but I am not sure if it's what I need.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help!!! I'v tried to reach out to other people who do exactly this, but they won't answer me---guess they don't want to share their secrets! So, now I need to get my own!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4511" LastActivityDate="2017-12-02T08:11:25.753" Title="Finish for hand painted/lettered wood sign" Tags="|finishing|wood|staining|paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6722" CreationDate="2017-12-02T08:11:25.753" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's you're looking for is a colourless clear finish (referred to as 'water white' often in finishing circles) and there's an easy solution here, which is waterbased polyurethane. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are very different from the polyurethane that you've already tried, their only common element being the added polyurethane resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't panic when you open the tin, they are milky-white when liquid (as with most waterbased finishes) but dry completely colourless. Do watch out however for ones tinted to match the colour of traditional oil-based varnishes!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the colour, or lack thereof, these have other advantages you'll like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fast drying&lt;/strong&gt; — again as with most waterbased finishes waterbased polys dry fast enough that, depending on your drying conditions, you can put on more than two coats in under an hour, and often in 30 minutes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Low odour&lt;/strong&gt; — these are a low-VOC finish since most of the liquid component is water. While they do have a distinctive smell it's not strong and most people don't find it unpleasant, the majority of users are comfortable applying them indoors in their homes with no particular care for ventilation and it is generally completely safe to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Water cleanup&lt;/strong&gt; — any equipment used or spills can be cleaned up using water. But note that once dried they are very much not soluble in water any longer :-) Warm water is better than cold and it helps if it's soapy so add a squirt of dishwashing liquid or hand soap if either is handy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one disadvantage worth noting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Raised grain&lt;/strong&gt; — because they contain lots of water waterbased finishes will raise the grain of the wood when applied, which means your lovely sanded wood will go from silky smooth to rough. If you want the boards to be ultra smooth when you're done you need to pre-raise the grain by dampening the wood and &lt;em&gt;lightly&lt;/em&gt; sanding back after they have dried (you can speed drying using a hairdryer if you like). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people do this more than once to be on the safe side. The most I've heard of is 5-6 times, but I've never found any advantage to doing it more than twice in comparisons I've done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember you only need to sand minimally, just one or two passes with light pressure using a fairly fine paper, e.g. 240-320 grit. If you sand more heavily you'll undo the benefit (because you've sanded too deeply into the surface) and the finish can then raise the grain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some additional notes on application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't use natural-bristle brushes to apply these. If using a brush use a synthetic, either made from fine nylon (often amber-coloured) or polyester (often white). They don't work well wiped on with on with a cloth. If you prefer not to brush use a foam roller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't thin. Unlike oil-based finishes where thinning is often used and highly beneficial waterbased finishes tend to work best at the consistency supplied by the manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-12-02T08:11:25.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1423" CreationDate="2017-12-02T16:39:52.127" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many years ago, in wood shop class, I learned what a jig saw was.  It was a mechanized saw which used a coping saw blade to make the same, intricate types of cuts.  The blade is attached top and bottom, allowing for some degree of stability, even with the thin blade.  This, obviously, is not possible with a sabre saw.  The sabre saw has a blade which is attached at one end, like a sword.  I recall one variation called a bayonet style blade, sold by Porter-Cable, which I owned.  The blade was relatively short.  It also , as I recall, was prone to the unique mounting scheme breaking.  I would like to say how disappointing it is when tool people call a sabre saw a jig saw.  I do not believe they are remotely interchangable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4517" LastActivityDate="2017-12-02T16:39:52.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6725" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6726" CreationDate="2017-12-02T20:36:48.413" Score="4" ViewCount="401" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my first woodworking project I'd like to build a polygon shaped, heavy duty work desk. I've &lt;a href=&quot;http://a360.co/2BtFVt5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;modeled the desk&lt;/a&gt; with all necessary pieces in Fusion 360. I wanted my mortise and tenon joints connecting &lt;a href=&quot;http://a360.co/2BtDS8u&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;100x60mm rails&lt;/a&gt; to &lt;a href=&quot;http://a360.co/2zXCr5M&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;100x100mm legs&lt;/a&gt; to have 50mm deep tenons with pegs for strength, and my 90 degree joints accommodate this. Unfortunately due to the polygon with 135 degree angles, I need to adjust my interior joints to 30mm deep tenons without pegs. Making matters worse, I don't have room for the mortise on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://a360.co/2BtJRdx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;outside 135 degree legs&lt;/a&gt; so I can add additional rails where the &lt;a href=&quot;http://a360.co/2jakqqp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;table top sections&lt;/a&gt; join.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will these joints be strong enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've linked to the 3D model in the text, but for those unable to load here are some renders:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aeDUw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aeDUw.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3qo23.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3qo23.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vks4E.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vks4E.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O1DtJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O1DtJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gkb3a.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gkb3a.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3ynPI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3ynPI.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1u73j.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1u73j.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2911" LastEditorUserId="2911" LastEditDate="2017-12-03T13:20:53.173" LastActivityDate="2017-12-04T04:19:19.423" Title="Are these work desk joints strong enough?" Tags="|joinery|table-making|mortise-and-tenon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6725" CreationDate="2017-12-04T04:19:19.423" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This design is plenty stout and has lots of extra strength built in to cope with material inconsistency and intermittent stresses put upon it. Those are excellently beefy pegged mortise and tenon joints in good proportion to the project. This method of joinery has been the gold standard for hundreds of years of solid furniture making and if built with even a minimum of care, this desk will likely outlive you and some number of descendants. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4327" LastActivityDate="2017-12-04T04:19:19.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6727" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6730" CreationDate="2017-12-04T07:48:59.373" Score="2" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;With CNC router , I've carved the inner circle so I  want to make hundreds of trays like this: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5hgaJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5hgaJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Simple Circle Tray&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;what is the best way to paint the &quot;brown part&quot; without affecting the top edges. ( I don't want to paint the yellow part , only the brown side )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2913" LastEditorUserId="2913" LastEditDate="2017-12-04T12:39:30.110" LastActivityDate="2017-12-04T15:27:08.167" Title="Painting inside of carving" Tags="|plywood|coloring|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6727" CreationDate="2017-12-04T11:37:09.547" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like you have a solid disc of plywood, with a ring stuck on the top.  If so, proceed as follows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mark out the inner and outer circles of the discs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paint the inner circle (but not the outer circle).  There is quite a bit of room for error here, so you can use a fairly large brush, or spray with a mask.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut out the upper rings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paint the inner edge of the upper rings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glue each disc and ring together (choose the surface with the fewest paint flecks as the upper surface of the ring).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once the paint is &lt;em&gt;completely&lt;/em&gt; hard, use a large sander to remove any flecks from the upper surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It turns out the piece is a solid piece of plywood with the hollow cut out with a CNC router.  In which case, I revert to my original (unposted) idea:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make tray.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paint inside as neatly as possible with a brush.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once the paint is &lt;em&gt;completely&lt;/em&gt; hard, use a large sander to remove any flecks from the upper surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1646" LastEditorUserId="1646" LastEditDate="2017-12-04T14:23:40.713" LastActivityDate="2017-12-04T14:23:40.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6727" CreationDate="2017-12-04T14:53:31.427" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make another ring (Piece A) that is somewhat larger in outside diameter than your final item, but with the same inner diameter and open at the bottom.  Make this from fairly thin material. This will be the stencil/mask to keep paint off the unpainted sections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, make a solid circle that is a close fit for the interiors (Piece B).  This should be thicker than the depth of the hole and the thickness of the piece above combined. This will be the locator to position the above disc on your work piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To use, place B inside a tray, and slide A down over it.  Clamp A in place and remove B.  Paint the inside with whatever you want, brush or spray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part A can be made from anything that is somewhat rigid - cardboard, wood or whatever.  You can make several of these so you can do sort of an assembly line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2017-12-04T14:53:31.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6727" CreationDate="2017-12-04T15:27:08.167" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would try applying blue painter's tape to the plywood before I routed out the inner circle. Then route the inner circle, which will also cut away the tape. Then when you paint the interior, the painter's tape will be perfectly masking the top, so you don't have to worry about slop. When the paint is dry, remove the painter's tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downside to this is, tape residue will get on the CNC bit. I'm not sure how hard this would be to clean. If the path can be set up so it routes the outer part of the circle first and moves towards the inner part, that might make it clean off most of the residue as it routes the rest of the circle. But maybe not. Still, it would be a handy process if it worked, so I'd probably at least give this a try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2017-12-04T15:27:08.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2484" CreationDate="2017-12-04T15:33:33.027" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simplest method is with an edge guide made of 1/2 plywood clamped to the piece or screwed to the piece and a skill saw. Measure the distance between the blade and the outside edge of the skill saw foot and the inside of the blade. Put the edge of the guide that distance back from where you want to cut and have at it. Just let the saw cut don't push it, use a steady hand.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4533" LastActivityDate="2017-12-04T15:33:33.027" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6732" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-04T23:08:59.903" Score="2" ViewCount="939" Body="&lt;p&gt;My tabletop is made of selected SPF boards and has been planed with a handplane. I've added breadboard ends to each end. I'm preparing the surface for a finish, and trying to avoid sanding altogether, using a combination of planes and/or scrapers. I can obtain a sufficiently smooth and reflexive surface with just planing on individual boards of the same material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was hoping I'd be able to do a final pass with only a card scraper over the surface to remove irregularities, remaining visible glue, remaining pencil marks, and remaining little bits of tearout around knots, but my scraping makes the glassy surface I had from just planing look more dull -- i am losing some sheen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could maybe re-plane the entire surface one last time, but planing has been made difficult at this point with the addition of breadboard ends, orthogonal to the grain direction of the main panel. To a lesser degree, this is also true of the possible grain-direction reversal at the boundary of each board of the main panel (i.e. I don't think I considered grain direction when assembling my panel).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On softwoods (i.e. woods with low-density fiber), in practice, can card scrapers (once sharpened properly) be used to achieving a surface comparable in smoothness and reflection to that obtained by planing (i.e. well-tuned bench plane)? Can card scrapers achieve high gloss also on softwood endgrain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or should I just give up the blades, and sand it like it's 1999.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2017-12-04T23:22:43.113" LastActivityDate="2017-12-05T08:45:35.100" Title="To prepare SPF (spruce/pine/fir) tabletop before a finish: should I use scraping, planing, or sanding?" Tags="|finishing|hand-planing|cabinet-scraper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6733" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-05T05:23:53.320" Score="1" ViewCount="213" Body="&lt;p&gt;I picked up some cheap wood that someone was getting rid of. He said it was used for a deck, and I can see it is painted red. How do I know if it is treated? (Also, anyone know what kind of wood it is?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wood in question is the small block sitting on top of oak veneer plywood.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FFsja.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4542" LastActivityDate="2017-12-18T21:40:41.647" Title="How do I know if the wood I picked up on Craigslist is treated?" Tags="|wood|pressure-treated|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6732" CreationDate="2017-12-05T08:45:35.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;my scraping makes the glassy surface I had from just planing look more dull -- i am losing some sheen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No need to worry about that overly, one of the roles of finish is to add sheen and, depending somewhat on the finish chosen, it can equalise the appearance of different areas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it is considered best if the wood has a uniform surface and appearance before finish application starts the grain direction can be all over the place (practically a given with SPF) and the wood will consequently absorb finish very variably regardless of how uniform it looked immediately before. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In areas of emerging grain, which are always seen somewhere around a knot, you'll have patches that will appear duller than the surrounding wood with the first one or two coats of finish because they are so absorbent. So it's often necessary to go to three or more coats to achieve a uniform sheen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;On softwoods (i.e. woods with low-density fiber), in practice, can card scrapers (once sharpened properly) be used to achieving a surface comparable in smoothness and reflection to that obtained by planing (i.e. well-tuned bench plane)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes yes, often no. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worth bearing in mind that many consider softwoods un-scrapable so you're in a minority doing it. I don't happen to agree as I refer to in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1134/what-are-the-differences-between-sanding-and-scraping/1159#1159&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt; but it's still challenging to get uniform results on softwoods, particularly where there are knots present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you might already know the problem with many softwoods is the softer earlywood (the paler stripes) is often &lt;em&gt;extremely&lt;/em&gt; soft so it's very difficult to deal with, especially as the darker latewood is so much harder and won't wear away or scrape off at the same rate. This can lead to a sort of corduroy texture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How far to take any surface is entirely down to the individual. Some people are OK with leaving traces of tearout because it's so difficult to completely remove, others don't want to see even a hint of it and will sand until it's gone, or take it to a certain point and then do a bit of filling to get rid of the last of it before the finish goes on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can card scrapers achieve high gloss also on softwood endgrain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IME no. Others may have achieved different results but experimenting with all the different types and scraping strategies I've found you &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; have to do some sanding to make the end grain look as good as it can look. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; it's worth sanding end grain much more finely than the long-grain surfaces. I'd regularly sand to approximately the level of 320 when final sanding on the long-grain surfaces would be to 150, and some people with higher standards sand their end grain to 600 and occasionally beyond. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-12-05T08:45:35.100" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6735" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-05T18:29:55.473" Score="3" ViewCount="5025" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am very slightly familiar with different type of sail boat/yacht hull construction. But this examples one on the pictures below are something that I do not quite understand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First pic:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nshTI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nshTI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This I find puzzling. First it appears there are some bulkheads. Longitudinal &amp;quot;stringers&amp;quot; are fixed to them. I presume their only purpose is to define the hull shape, sort of like a spline. On this &amp;quot;stringers&amp;quot; the vertical frames are attached. This I presume will stay as structure of the boat. And i guess on top of this frames comes the planking. Then another assumption from me: inner bulkheads and &amp;quot;stringers&amp;quot; are removed so only frames and planking remain? Am I correct or wrong. Actually I would like this thing explained to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;William Fife 8m Defender:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YrLeP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YrLeP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This looks very similar but on closer inspection I think longitudinal stringer are actual pieces of final planking. But I might be wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This might be the same boat with planking.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MjP3u.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MjP3u.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, at least the first pic shows the type of construction I do not understand. What is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4553" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2022-02-23T15:18:40.227" LastActivityDate="2022-02-24T18:15:35.903" Title="What is this type of sail boat hull construction?" Tags="|boat-building|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6738" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-06T22:14:45.043" Score="1" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if anyone on here watches Steve Ramsey's Youtube channel, &quot;Woodworking For Mere Mortals&quot;, but I saw an episode on there where he made a heart-shaped band saw box out of purple heart wood and I have decided to make one for my girlfriend. I just went to cut out the drawer a few minutes ago with a 1/8&quot; bosh band saw blade, and after about 7 inches of cutting, every single tooth on the blade had been ground down to nothing, and won't cut at all any more. I really don't want to go through this again, or buy 1000 blades for one project. Other woodworkers have made similar projects so how do they do it without the experience I have had. This has been extremely frustrating, any advice would be appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4397" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2017-12-09T04:30:32.373" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T04:30:32.373" Title="Quality Band Saw Blades" Tags="|power-tools|cutting|band-saw|blade|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2017-12-07T20:12:03.993" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6738" CreationDate="2017-12-06T23:28:40.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For starters, your blade is too small.  A 1/8&quot; blade will have very high teeth per inch (TPI) and is intended primarily for finish work on small/thin pieces. It   Taking a quick look at the video it appears that Steve is using a 3/8&quot; or 1/2&quot; blade.  This blade size will handle the rough cut on the shapes required fairly easily. I would recommend a 3 - 6 TPI hook blade for general work like this project. (Hook refers to the profile of the individual blade points.)  I would also point out that Purple Heart is a very hard wood and will tend to dull a blade faster than some of the more common hardwoods.  It would therefore be a good idea to go for a high carbon flex back sawblade to last longer.  A cheap steel blade will not last nearly as long and will be more likely to break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is lots of information on the internet on buying selecting bandsaw blades. &#xA;You can also inquire at your local woodworking store. Some internet sites such as sawblade.com have some knowledgable people that you can call and discuss specifics with.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2017-12-06T23:28:40.163" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6740" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-07T02:27:00.390" Score="2" ViewCount="345" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on building a version of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/more/bowsawdesign.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gramercy Tools bow saw&lt;/a&gt;. According to their research, Hickory is a good substitute for the European Beech wood classically used in such saws, since it is both flexible and tough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On &lt;a href=&quot;http://woodmonsters.com/wood-charts-density-hardness-stiffness-and-strength.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;looking into the properties of various woods&lt;/a&gt;, I discovered that Walnut might be a superior substitute to Hickory - its stiffness and strength lies right between European Beech and Hickory, but its hardness is lower (and thus easier to work) and its density is &lt;em&gt;significantly&lt;/em&gt; below both of them (making for a lighter saw).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something I'm overlooking? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the lower &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Janka_hardness_test&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Janka&lt;/a&gt; hardness of the Walnut going to pose a problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is that purely a cosmetic matter (being more prone to nicks and dings) that is outweighed by the other benefits I mentioned?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3137" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2017-12-19T08:12:22.253" LastActivityDate="2017-12-19T08:12:22.253" Title="Substituting Walnut for Hickory in a bow saw" Tags="|hand-tools|wood-selection|hand-saw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6740" CreationDate="2017-12-07T05:02:32.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Walnut will perform very well and look great the whole time. The difference in hardness should make no relevant difference in this application. Walnut works like a hard cheddar but works like a Clydesdale. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4327" LastActivityDate="2017-12-07T05:02:32.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6740" CreationDate="2017-12-07T12:18:09.770" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm planning on building a version of the Gramercy Tools bow saw. According to their research, Hickory is a good substitute for the European Beech wood classically used in such saws, since it is both flexible and tough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to ask what's wrong with beech, which also grows in North America, but never mind that ^_^&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is the lower janka hardness of the Walnut going to pose a problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only as far as it will accrue dings a little more readily as you were thinking, and this isn't a big deal except aesthetically. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you might guess you wouldn't be the first person to make a bow saw from American black walnut:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4HQkI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4HQkI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Walnut bow saws&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally there are numerous written references to bow saws being made from walnut, so it has a proven track record in this application. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But people have made functional frame saws from softwoods, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z4LohjmskEk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here's Paul Sellers demonstrating making one from common SPF&lt;/a&gt;, which pretty much tells us all we need to know about how far you can push the envelope in terms of material!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So clearly many other hardwoods would be suitable as well. In the UK it's not unusual to see older frame saws of various sizes made from mahogany which is more valued for its looks than strength. In terms of woods that are easier to come by one of the oaks would be a great choice since they're ubiquitous across the US, hard and tough, not overly heavy and generally quite inexpensive. Ash and birch should also work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since many woods are suitable at the end of the day the choice can be made nearly entirely on looks if desired, or on cost, or availability, without feeling you've compromised on the final strength of the saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there something I'm overlooking? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When strength is an issue at least as important as the species chosen is the run of grain. The uprights are under great tension when the string is fully tightened so just as when making handles for heavier axes I would take care that there isn't much grain runout, even using a species known for its resilience. Grain is much less critical for the stretcher which is under compression.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last point worth noting in relation to hickory is something that often goes unreferenced, the difference between its sapwood and heartwood. It is the paler sapwood of hickory that is specifically valued for tool handles, &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; the heartwood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-12-07T12:18:09.770" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="307" CreationDate="2017-12-08T14:36:51.897" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thinking back to something Roy Underhill said on The Woodwright Shop, probably 30 years ago, I thought that the teeth of a crosscut blade were angled perpendicular to the stroke of the saw, so as to work like a knife blade slicing through the wood fibers. The rip blade teeth pointed straight down, so as to work like a wood chisel splitting the wood fibers apart.  Granted he was talking about hand saws, not power saws.  Amazing that I still remember that after all this time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4567" LastActivityDate="2017-12-08T14:36:51.897" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6744" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-08T19:35:33.777" Score="-6" ViewCount="2086" Body="&lt;p&gt;so, it may seem impractical to cut really hard woods with hand tools, but i know it can be done with the right tools...i generally assume for really tough woods and cross-cuts it's best to use a bow saw. I'm cutting through some thick walnut vertically, and the bow saw has already gone half way through, but the blade is now damaged and it's proving a total hassel to try and knock out the pin that holds the blade in place, i've got it part of the way out with a hammer and knife but it doesn't appear like it was meant to take it out and replace (saw companies: why not just hold it in with a normal phillips head screw?!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;before i go out and buy anything else, i just wanted to ask you all, if you hypothetically wanted to cut through dry walnut with a hand saw, what would you do? the normal hand saw i have seems to work but it cuts so damn slow and i know it's gonna ruin the blades like the other one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4568" LastEditorUserId="11" LastEditDate="2017-12-08T23:25:15.943" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T16:18:12.093" Title="What's the best approach to cutting dry walnut with a hand saw?" Tags="|hardwood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="15" ClosedDate="2017-12-19T08:10:22.883" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6744" CreationDate="2017-12-09T16:12:02.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll just answer the title, as the question is in dire need of edits to be either a good question or answerable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a sharp saw. This is a fundamental requirement for using hand saws.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Support the wood properly, so that it neither pinches and binds the saw nor splinters at the end of the cut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the proper type of saw for the direction you are cutting. Rip tooth when parallel to the grain or nearly so, crosscut when 90 degrees to the grain or nearly so. Some saws have combination teeth that work equally well (or equally poorly) in either direction. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Arrange the work and support at a comfortable height - depending on the type of saw you are using and the scale of the cut, heavy work is often more easily accomplished at a lower height than &quot;standard&quot; sawhorses and benches are set (current sawhorses are geared towards power saw use.) A good sawbench for Western/American pattern handsaws is typically close to knee high. A traditional Japanese sawbench (IIRC) is an angled beam that you can pick a comfortable spot to work on, and the work is marked on all sides and turned as you saw it such that you never cut the beam. Being too low or too high makes sawing awkward, and awkward is difficult.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3334" LastEditorUserId="3334" LastEditDate="2017-12-09T16:18:12.093" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T16:18:12.093" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6735" CreationDate="2017-12-09T16:31:05.800" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you examine the second picture, you will see that the &amp;quot;underlying&amp;quot; longitudinal members (inside the ribs) in the first picture are just part of the &lt;strong&gt;mold&lt;/strong&gt; which the vertical members (ribs) are attached to in bending/forming. They stay there and the next hull's vertical members are formed on them. That mold sets the shape of the hull for all boats built on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The longitudinal support on the finished hull comes from the planking attached to the outside of the ribs. The longitudinal members outside the ribs in the second picture may be some of those planks, but are more likely to be temporary braces to permit the ribs to stay in place until planking is attached, which will be removed as the planking gets to each one. Managing the joints between boards is difficult enough without adding trying to meet up with 10 or more boards already fixed in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3334" LastEditorUserId="3334" LastEditDate="2022-02-24T18:15:35.903" LastActivityDate="2022-02-24T18:15:35.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6747" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-10T15:56:15.870" Score="2" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a special technique that anyone can recommend for painting inner and outer edges of a cutout (say, from a jigsaw or something).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've thrown together an example in Tinkercad:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VKUD2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VKUD2.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on having 2 colors, the blue on top and orange along the text.  My actual design will be exposing inner and outer edges of text.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done this before with masking tape, spray paint, and a helluva lot of patience (and usually end up doing it about 4 times before I'm happy with it).  I feel like there's gotta be a better way, an ancient woodworking secret that I have yet to be taught, oh masters of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if I went the tape / spray paint route, which would be a better part to do first?  The orange or the blue?  Does it matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: in case it matters, this is about an 16&quot; long sign, about 8&quot; tall.  Several kinda sharp corners on the lettering.  Wood is a 3/4&quot; board (I think alder?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: One (probably important) detail I forgot to mention is the edge will be routed.  The bevel will be blue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="872" LastEditorUserId="872" LastEditDate="2017-12-11T22:57:59.350" LastActivityDate="2017-12-11T22:57:59.350" Title="Painting the edges of a cutout (inner and outer edges)" Tags="|finishing|paint|jigsaw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6747" CreationDate="2017-12-11T15:31:14.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's the first thing I would try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paint the top (the blue color, in your example). Let that dry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put blue painter's tape over the blue paint.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut the lettering.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Without removing the painter's tape, paint the sides of the lettering (the orange color, in your example). Let that dry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the masking tape.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several potential downsides to this technique. Whenever you cut through painter's tape, a residue will gum up the blade you're using to cut. Depending on how much you're cutting, this can make the blade dull faster, or at least cut like a duller blade. You might have to stop one or more times to clean the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, depending on the quality of your blade in the first place, the tape might be getting ripped up instead of making a clean cut. With a sharp blade that produces clean cuts in wood on its own (i.e., no splintering or tear out), this shouldn't be an issue. In fact, using painter's tape over the area being cut is a common technique to &lt;em&gt;prevent&lt;/em&gt; tear out of veneers on veneered plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2017-12-11T15:31:14.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6749" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6751" CreationDate="2017-12-12T18:48:46.963" Score="1" ViewCount="1127" Body="&lt;p&gt;My son wants to make my wife a wooden bowl or cup out of a section of a log.  I don't have a lathe and was wondering if its possible to hollow it out using some type of drill bit or sanding disc on a drill attachment?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3105" LastActivityDate="2017-12-13T19:27:25.790" Title="Carving a wood bowl or cut without a lathe" Tags="|drilling|turning|carving|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6749" CreationDate="2017-12-12T19:45:12.760" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;After doing some more research I think that using a forstner bit would be my best option&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3105" LastActivityDate="2017-12-12T19:45:12.760" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6749" CreationDate="2017-12-13T19:24:22.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on how deep the cup/bowl will be you may be able to carve it out with a large gouge, hook knife, or scorp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also look into power carving options, such as a burr on a Foredom-style tool, or the arbortech &quot;mini turbo&quot; or &quot;turbo shaft&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With any of these options, though, I think you'd still want to hog out as much waste as possible with a drill press.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2017-12-13T19:24:22.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6753" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-14T14:55:51.580" Score="1" ViewCount="219" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of making some wooden cases for various tools, parts and so on. In some ways they are baby cousins of (and inspired by) printers' type cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some type cases have brass &quot;caps&quot; on the joins between horizontal and vertical separators. These come in &quot;cross&quot; shapes, &quot;tee&quot; shapes and also sometimes &quot;L&quot; shapes for outer corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HNhKl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HNhKl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close-up of printer&amp;#39;s type case with brass &amp;quot;cross caps&amp;quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They seem like a good way to avoid the internal walls coming adrift as they hold the top corners firmly together. There are other ways like setting in grooves, but this way seems a lot more flexible (no extra cutting or routing) if you can just drop walls in with a bit of PVA, and cap with one of these at each end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found several kinds of &quot;corner protectors&quot; for sale, but not this kind of reinforcement. Is it something that a) has a name and b) can be bought these days?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4579" LastActivityDate="2017-12-18T19:27:27.567" Title="Are these brass &quot;cross caps&quot; (used on type cases) still made?" Tags="|terminology|fasteners|hardware-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6754" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-14T18:06:37.567" Score="2" ViewCount="907" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TxQIX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TxQIX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oJ7i7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oJ7i7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;my question is about how to save my table!!! Im doing my first project. I sanded the table yesterday, applied pre-stain/ conditioner and then my first layer of stain. I went to check it to see if it needs a second coat of stain or if its ready for the poly and the table is WET FROM MOISTURE! I tried drying it off with a towel but now what? Please help me save my dining room table! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Also, stain is MINWAX Wood Finish Penetrating Stain Early American 230 ) *google says it's an oil based stain** &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4580" LastEditorUserId="4580" LastEditDate="2017-12-14T18:33:48.340" LastActivityDate="2018-12-12T11:01:05.217" Title="moisture after first layer of stain.. now what?" Tags="|staining|wood-repair|tabletop|moisture|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6754" CreationDate="2017-12-16T06:58:41.067" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;applied pre-stain/ conditioner &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You didn't need to do that unless you'd identified in advance that the wood was prone to blotching. Helping to prevent or minimise blotching is the &lt;em&gt;sole&lt;/em&gt; reason to pre-treat wood in this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you've done in this case is partially sealed the entire wood surface (not just over-absorbent patches) which unfortunately means the stain will have coloured the wood much less than it would have otherwise as I think is shown in the photos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;now what? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's impossible to be sure but it looks like the tabletop wasn't adversely affected and you can proceed with finishing &lt;em&gt;after giving the table ample time to dry off&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember wood can still be damp even if it doesn't look damp so after wood gets a good wetting with water it's generally safest to wait at least a full day before the next step. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Once you're ready to apply poly&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As clarified in a Comment the source of the water was dew. I think it goes without saying but in case not, if you leave it where it is the same thing could happen again the following morning which you obviously want to avoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And you MUST have the table somewhere where it won't get damp for the varnishing stage, including during the entire time the varnish is drying. Call it a solid week with a conservative safety margin. If water condenses on the surface when the varnish is still largely wet Bad Things will happen, and at worst it would mean having to go all the way back to bare wood and starting again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2018-01-16T06:15:44.283" LastActivityDate="2018-01-16T06:15:44.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6753" CreationDate="2017-12-16T07:17:31.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know these aren't made any more, but it's a big world out there so you never know! Part of the difficulty of course is looking for them without knowing what they're called....... or, what the manufacturer, who may not speak English as a first language calls them! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming they aren't manufactured any more you could have them made for you. Or, with some effort and ingenuity you could make them yourself. It's beyond the scope of this SE to cover how but with a fairly minimal tool kit these are easily made in a corner of the shop. Once you get your sheet brass* pretty much all you'd need would be some measuring and marking tools (T-square, steel rule, scriber, maybe dividers) and a hacksaw fitted with a fine blade or tin snips, a mallet, one file ideally with a safe edge, some abrasive paper and a drill. The drill can be a hand drill/eggbeater if you like as brass is softish and easily drilled by a modern twist bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Or brass strip. If you start with brass strip that's as wide as the &quot;cross&quot; shapes that's one less cut you'd need to do on some of the pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-12-16T07:17:31.977" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6733" CreationDate="2017-12-16T15:24:07.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since this is US/Canada, when you talk about &quot;treated&quot; I assume you're talking about CCA (Copper-Chrome-Arsenic).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer is simple enough - buy a test kit. Google on arsenic wood test kit. For instance, on Amazon you can find &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00DIJ91GE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Industrial-Test-Systems-481396-W-Arsenic&lt;/a&gt; and Walmart sells &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.walmart.com/ip/Arsenic-481396-W-Quick-Wood-Field-Testing-Kit/47714541?wmlspartner=wlpa&amp;amp;selectedSellerId=1148&amp;amp;adid=22222222227034975956&amp;amp;wl0=&amp;amp;wl1=g&amp;amp;wl2=c&amp;amp;wl3=75434718394&amp;amp;wl4=pla-175405973074&amp;amp;wl5=1021883&amp;amp;wl6=&amp;amp;wl7=&amp;amp;wl8=&amp;amp;wl9=pla&amp;amp;wl10=112562587&amp;amp;wl11=online&amp;amp;wl12=47714541&amp;amp;wl13=&amp;amp;veh=sem&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Arsenic-481396-W-Quick-Wood-Field-Testing-Kit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="463" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2017-12-18T21:40:41.647" LastActivityDate="2017-12-18T21:40:41.647" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6685" CreationDate="2017-12-16T15:57:14.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Purely in engineering terms, a clear teak 1 x 3 (actual inches) with a 56 inch span, loaded entirely at one point in the center and supported at the ends has a failure load of about 1500 pounds, and for a more distributed load the failure load will be at least twice that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you can figure something on the order of 3 tons before the side rails snap. I'd worry more about the whole thing falling over before that happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I expect you've notched the side rails in order to accomodate the the spacer you've shown, and this weakens the rails enormously. Assuming a 1 1/2 deep notch, the strength goes down by at least a factor of 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plywood top will pretty much prevent vertical failure of the stretcher and rail glue joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'd say your 200 kg load should be safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="463" LastActivityDate="2017-12-16T15:57:14.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6761" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-16T17:07:06.060" Score="4" ViewCount="455" Body="&lt;p&gt;So my northern California shop temp is hovering between 40 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit this time of year. This is too cool for oil-based varnish to cure. So I was wondering if thinning the varnish and applying thin, wipe-on coats each day would allow for a full cure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2394" LastEditorUserId="2394" LastEditDate="2017-12-17T15:09:02.133" LastActivityDate="2017-12-17T15:09:02.133" Title="Will thinning oil-based varnish facilitate curing at cool temperatures?" Tags="|finishing|varnish|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6761" CreationDate="2017-12-17T08:45:59.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drying yes, curing not really. The cure rate won't be greatly affected (because you can take it that the curing doesn't begin until the final coat has gone on) but you will most definitely see a difference between brushing on a varnish and wiping on three or four thinned coats of the same varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I almost always apply varnish by thinning it and wiping it on and by doing this I consistently get varnishes (more than one type) to dry and cure through most of the cooler months at room temps that are sometimes below 10°C, which translates to under 50°F. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you might already know, using wiping varnish you can wipe away all, some or none of the excess after application. I highly recommend the first option in this context. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you wipe the surface very well after application you build the finish and develop sheen much more slowly, but drying is &lt;em&gt;far&lt;/em&gt; more reliable. If I wipe away all excess (the surface is virtually dry) the project is ready for recoating in 12-24 hours but if I leave a thicker film by lightly wiping the surface it can jump to in excess of 48 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; once the temperature drops to closer to 2°C (36°F) I prefer not to risk most finishing operations as I've tried it a few times and it hasn't worked well. The problems I've experienced include really excessive varnish drying times — two weeks to become tack-free — but other other more serious effects are possible (finish defects) so it's best not to take the chance with most final finishes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note any other readers, this should not be taken as a recommendation to finish at low temperatures. As much as possible finishing should be done in a &quot;warm, dry, dust-free environment&quot;. Warm here should be taken to mean average room temperature or higher. Only by following this can consistently good results be achieved using a range of finishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-12-17T08:45:59.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6763" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6765" CreationDate="2017-12-18T00:16:50.877" Score="7" ViewCount="24211" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am finishing up an end-grain butcher block cutting board (my first attempt) for my parents Christmas gift. Thus far I've finished it with mineral oil that I've been soaking into the pores. My last coat didn't soak in as much so I wiped away the excess and it looks good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also heard tell of people finishing it off with a beeswax finish. I have a friend that is a bee keeper who took some time to render me some fresh beeswax. I'm not sure what's the best way to use this as part of my finishing process. That's my question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My best thought is to simply cut off a small chunk and warm it in my hands till it's pliable. Then simply rub it all over the board. Finish it off by buffing it with a clean cloth. Any other good ideas? Is this a good approach? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cutting board so far:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s8rxP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s8rxP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cutting board&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The raw beeswax:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NoJX5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NoJX5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3504" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2017-12-18T08:02:49.757" LastActivityDate="2020-07-10T13:58:34.700" Title="Using raw beeswax for cutting board finish" Tags="|finish-selection|butcher-block|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6763" CreationDate="2017-12-18T06:19:13.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simplest method of using beeswax is to grate it into turpentine and stir it until it forms a soft-ish paste. This may not be ideal for a food surface though. Turpentine smells great but I wouldn't want to eat it. The method you suggest does work but needs quite a bit of effort to get the wax to soften enough to spread across the wood. Applying some heat would help. Perhaps a hairdryer or a heat gun. Be careful not to scorch the wood though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2531" LastActivityDate="2017-12-18T06:19:13.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6763" CreationDate="2017-12-18T08:49:50.820" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are various ways of introducing wax to wood, including dissolving the wax into the mineral oil (this makes what some call &quot;board butter&quot; or &quot;spoon butter&quot;), making up a conventional paste wax, or by applying it molten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The goal here is to get the wax to be absorbed by the wood as deeply as possible, not just to apply a coat of wax to the surface which is then buffed to a shine as is normally done on furniture. To best facilitate this the wax needs to made liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMO melting the wax* and applying it to directly to the wood is by far the best option for an end-grain board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of whether you use a &quot;board butter&quot; or apply straight melted wax I think you should warm the wood before application so that it doesn't begin to set the moment it touches the surface. You will generally get much deeper penetration this way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A heat gun can be used to pre-heat the board if handled with care, but a normal hairdryer will put out sufficient heat. Since the wood will cool off fairly quickly on its own it's best to do this one area at a time, so you'll work over the board section by section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How to apply&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Couldn't be simpler, you just dip a brush into the wax and start brushing it onto the pre-warmed surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're done and all the wax has cooled and solidified some excess will need to be removed from the surface and scraping is probably the most efficient method. You can use the edge of a kitchen knife for this if you don't own any conventional wood scrapers. For the grooved areas a spoon will work great, its edge can be sharpened if necessary but remember to blunt it afterwards if you return it to normal duties!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Unless you have a low-temperature heat source like a hotplate it's best to melt the wax in a double boiler (simplest version is a glass, ceramic or metal bowl suspended in simmering water). Once fully molten the wax will have become clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-12-18T08:49:50.820" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6602" CreationDate="2017-12-18T10:31:19.230" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old guitar (electric) that had a battered finish. I stripped it completely and used linseed oil to refinish it. I don't think it changed the tone in any noticeable way, and its been fine ever since. That was about 40 years ago. &#xA;Some caveats though:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Oil will never give you a really high gloss finish. If that's what you want, use something else. If you want it to look &quot;natural&quot; though, oil is great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) It should really be regularly maintained, certainly for the first few months. Oil it and oil it again. Keep going till it stops absorbing any more. As I remember it, the rule was every day for a week, every week for a month, every month for a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Oil finish hardens inside the wood, not on the surface. For flutes it's great. For acoustic guitars, probably not. As far as I know this has never been the method chosen for finishing soundboards. The traditional finish there would be shellac which seals the surface rather than soaks in, and adds as little weight as possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) As others have pointed out, oil offers little protection from scratches. However it often still looks ok, and the finish can very easily be touched up. The finish will never chip or peel off, because it actually becomes part of the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2531" LastActivityDate="2017-12-18T10:31:19.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6592" CreationDate="2017-12-18T10:39:20.707" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One more you could try: Cascamite. Very easy to use, it's a powder that you mix with water. Don't let that give the wrong impression though, once set it is completely insoluble/impervious to water. I seem to remember it has a pretty good shelf life too, as long as it doesn't get damp. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2531" LastActivityDate="2017-12-18T10:39:20.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6753" CreationDate="2017-12-18T19:27:27.567" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are not mass manufactured anymore. It is because of their quick breaking. Ther are very brittle. If you use too much force, you easily break the screw head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4591" LastActivityDate="2017-12-18T19:27:27.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6769" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-18T20:33:04.537" Score="2" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to replace our mantel shelf over the holidays. The plan is to have something that looks like a large beam but is constructed like a floating shelf (box). Haven't picked the exact variety yet, but right now I think it will be cherry but I have some questions about wood movement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If I simply rip 3 sides and 45 degrees and make a box with caps on the end, am I asking for trouble as the wood expands?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If I were to make the box out of plywood and then glue thinner (say 1/4 inch) cherry to the plywood box, is that less likely to move?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example of the style of box &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6z7J2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6z7J2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4592" LastActivityDate="2017-12-18T20:33:04.537" Title="Worried about movement in a floating shelf style mantel shelf" Tags="|wood-movement|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6770" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-19T03:04:25.520" Score="6" ViewCount="261" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read the discussions regarding high gloss finishes, but haven't quite found the answer I'm seeking for my unique situation. I have a built-in cabinet in my condo. It has dark stain and varnish. I would like to give it a glossy, black finish. It doesn't have to shine like a Steinway, but I would like to completely cover the wood grain. Because it is a built-in and in my living room, spraying is not an option. Nor is any wet-sanding/polishing. I would also prefer to avoid stripping the varnish, if possible. Is there a way for a novice like me to achieve the finish I desire within all of these constraints?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4595" LastActivityDate="2017-12-23T19:22:13.677" Title="Is a mess-free, high gloss finish possible?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6770" CreationDate="2017-12-19T08:05:51.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paint it with gloss enamel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a small brush or 'detail' brush for inside corners and tidying up edges, a foam roller for the flat surfaces. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need to scuff up or lightly sand the entire piece before you start to ensure good adhesion so some dust will be generated but not an excessive amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-12-19T08:05:51.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6770" CreationDate="2017-12-19T16:59:33.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's easy enough to get a glossy finish (see Graphus's answer), the hard part is getting it &lt;strong&gt;flat&lt;/strong&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a gloss finish any surface imperfections become very easy to see.  This includes the grain of the wood (particularly if it's an open-pore species like Oak), dust that may settle on it before the finish is cured, orange peel from applying too much or too little finish (particularly if spraying), brush strokes, previous surface imperfections, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the reason that people often use a regime that involves finishing in thin coats and sanding repeatedly.  If you just want it to be shiny then any gloss finish should do.  Oil-based paints are a little easier since they self-level better and tend not to leave brush strokes, but the clean-up is more annoying since you need to use mineral spirits instead of water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2017-12-19T16:59:33.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6770" CreationDate="2017-12-19T18:33:26.830" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple steps I would suggest. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Apply a deglosser.  Products like this soften the surface to allow for better adhesion to the substrate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Apply a heavy duty primer (it will smell) I suggest BIN's red labeled alcohol based primer.  This will seal in the stain and even out the surface for painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Let the primer cure. Follow the label&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Apply a black gloss finish of your choice.  I'd suggest a gloss black lacquer if you really want that super shiny finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="212" LastActivityDate="2017-12-19T18:33:26.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6774" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6775" CreationDate="2017-12-20T16:19:04.790" Score="1" ViewCount="4953" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a couple of purpleheart earrings. I want to embed an amethyst gem into each one. I have a couple of concerns though. The wood is so dark that I feel it will make the gem seem dark once it's embedded. How can I address this?&#xA; Should I cut a hole all the way through the wood to let light into the gem? And how should I secure the gem? I'm thinking epoxy right now but depending on if I need to drill a hole all the way through I'm not sure if I should fill in the hole on the backside completely with epoxy or leave it open. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what I have so far. The one on the right shows what I would like the finished product to look like.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CGZGb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CGZGb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Earrings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1172" LastActivityDate="2017-12-22T20:17:39.583" Title="Embedding/Inlaying a gem into wood" Tags="|technique|glue|design|inlay|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6774" CreationDate="2017-12-20T20:51:00.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not an experienced woodworker, but I can offer a couple of suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, if you think that the gem will look darker, you can try to have a light background in the hole (sometimes this trick is used to make look  the gem darker or vivid in the jewels), to test just make the hole and put a little piece of white paper as background (bonus: you can try with different paper colors without any problem). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you noted, another solution is to cut the hole all the way, but this change the overall look of the earrings, I don't say they will not be nice, just different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About how to secure the gem, go for the epoxy or cyanoacrylate, just be sure they are cristal clear and, if you use the epoxy, that it has a high resistance to the UV or it will yellow with the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3386" LastActivityDate="2017-12-20T20:51:00.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6777" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6779" CreationDate="2017-12-21T02:34:42.613" Score="3" ViewCount="2301" Body="&lt;p&gt;Forgive me if I'm posting this in the wrong place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assembling a tree hall that uses cam bolts but one of the plastic inserts was loose and when I tighten up the bolts the assembly is very wobbly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I removed the insert and tried using wood glue but it didn't hold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see in the pic, the threaded end goes into a plastic insert and on further inspection 2 other inserts are loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice on how to glue these inserts so they will hold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UIJOi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UIJOi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cam bolt and insert&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4603" LastActivityDate="2017-12-23T18:07:22.880" Title="Advice on fixing cam bolt hole" Tags="|glue|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6777" CreationDate="2017-12-21T07:54:09.253" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fill the hole with epoxy (added with some thickener like fine sawdust) and then drill a new hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3386" LastActivityDate="2017-12-21T07:54:09.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6777" CreationDate="2017-12-21T10:11:48.290" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might actually be able to fix this using white or yellow glue but it would be better to use a gap-filling adhesive. The simplest option for this is epoxy. Virtually any epoxy will work here, so buying the cheapest 5-minute epoxy you can find usually isn't a false economy (even dollar-store/poundshop epoxies are generally fine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use the epoxy as-is, or thicken it slightly if you want by mixing in a little filler. Wood dust is the usual filler so use that if you have any, but wheat flour will work in a pinch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although you might be able to push them home using a pencil or screwdriver I think you may need to use the cam bolt to correctly position the nylon inserts, but you don't want the bolt itself to get epoxied to the side of the hole. To prevent this it would be advisable to lubricate the shaft with a thin smear of wax, oil or grease. Any cooking or salad oil will be fine, you could also use mineral oil or baby oil if you have either in the house. Don't get it on the outside of the plastic insert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll want to clean the hole out as well as you can before adding in the epoxy so that it isn't sticking to the previous glue you used but to the wood itself. If you have a drill bit that's a tight fit in the hole run that up and down the hole a few times with it spinning. If you only have a bit that's slightly larger than the hole that's fine to use instead, you'll re-drill the hole at a larger size but since you'll be filling the gap anyway this is no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible alternative&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There's no downside to trying this first if you want. There's a chance that packing the hole out with thin slivers of wood (split matchsticks, toothpicks or bamboo skewers are all options) and then forcing the plastic insert in will give them enough purchase. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The projecting bits of wood can be snipped off with scissors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-12-21T10:11:48.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6780" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6781" CreationDate="2017-12-21T16:39:10.773" Score="3" ViewCount="2568" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to make Triangular &amp;amp; Hexagonal shelves, but I'm getting confused by some of the maths involved for the bevels. To make a hexagon I need a 120 degree angle, but I need 2 pieces to make that angle, so I do: 120/2 = 60 degrees each. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d7zhv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d7zhv.png&quot; alt=&quot;Hexagon&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;So I would think that I can set my bevel gauge to 60 degrees on my table saw (Hypothetically, I'm aware that my bevel doesn't go that far and that I can use a jig to hold the workpeice vertically to do the complement of 30 degrees, effectively making it 60 degrees)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm having similar issues for the equilateral triangle shelves. I've seen people cut their straight stock at a 30 degree bevel and wind up with angles that don't look right, such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8rhwC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8rhwC.png&quot; alt=&quot;Triangular Shelf&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here, you see that the shelf is not assembled at the edges, and is instead on the face. This doesn't look right to me, and seems to imply that the person didn't know how to cut the angles properly. I've seen proper bevels cut and they look really nice, even at non 90 degree bevels, such as this one from Foureyes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/knz0c.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/knz0c.png&quot; alt=&quot;Foureyes Bevel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I resolve these issues? What bevel should I cut my straight stock on, so that I can make these shapes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 0: In general, if I want to cut a 30 degree angle in Cartesian space, do I set my bevel gauge to 30 degrees?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 1: Stranger yet, I've seen the hexagons be cut at a 30 degree bevel by this video (&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/_sQzIbgQjig?t=38&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/_sQzIbgQjig?t=38&lt;/a&gt;), and my intuition tels me that a transformation function is used to convert between Cartesian space and table saw bevel space. He needed a 60 degree angle in Cartesian space so he took the compliment of 60 degrees and obtained an angle of 30 degrees, and this is what he set his table saw to. Is this thinking correct?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3800" LastEditorUserId="3800" LastEditDate="2017-12-21T16:59:07.650" LastActivityDate="2017-12-22T15:03:45.623" Title="Table Saw Bevel Maths?" Tags="|table-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6780" CreationDate="2017-12-22T15:03:45.623" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does it help to think about it backwards (and tongue in cheek)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use your equilateral triangular shelf as a starting point. Pretend Ms. Plato, a retired carpenter down the street has gifted you with the perfect wooden equilateral triangle of boards like your photo (rather than lines with no width). Unlike the picture, Ms Plato's joints are so precise and perfectly finished that you can't detect where the boards came together. She may have used a piano-black, high gloss finish (&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/756/how-do-i-achieve-a-piano-black-high-gloss-finish-on-wood&quot;&gt;How do I achieve a &amp;quot;piano black&amp;quot; high gloss finish on wood?&lt;/a&gt;) or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those boards in the finished triangle actually form &lt;em&gt;two&lt;/em&gt; triangles, with a larger triangle formed by the junctions of the outer faces of the boards used, and a smaller &quot;concentric&quot; inner triangle where the inner faces meet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, you've been allowed to choose a medium quality crosscut saw: Japanese or &quot;European&quot; being your choice. Here's where it gets dirty. You're going to saw apart that ideal triangle. The only rules are a) that you need to use a Moxon vise constructed from a YouTube video and b) you have to start sawing in a straight line at each vertex on the inner triangle. For example, when you start sawing at inner vertex B (with your labeling preference) you can point that Dozuki in any direction you like to make the cut. (You're not allowed to have a &quot;hook&quot; after the cut :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NlXxy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NlXxy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A perfect triangle with cut options&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice that after making a cut from each vertex and sweeping up the sawdust that you have three pieces of wood. The angles on the end of those boards are probably all different. Maybe Steve Ramsey would call it &quot;funkily&quot; different. The only thing that appears to be true upon measuring is that the angles of adjoining faces add up to 60 degrees, and that happens for each of the three junctions you have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You and I would probably like the 30-degreeers best, but not everyone would share our aesthetic. If people think the way we do and were building that triangle, they'd probably setup a table saw to cut those 30 degree angles, using all the real-life techniques that woodworkers have in their apron to creep up on the cut, do it accurately and consistently, adjust to minor mistakes etc. But some may prefer the triangle of your photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with the &quot;try it&quot; gang (see how close you can get to the desired angle, use the 30 + 60 = 90 approach, do a good job dimensioning the boards you'll use, etc.) There are various tools you could use to determine if the angle you cut (afterwards) is what you wanted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also suspect for polygons of increasing numbers of faces, mistakes in the degree of the cut for each face would compound more, and maybe a person would say do all but the last face, then evaluate what you had to see what was truly needed for the last face, rather than just cut the ideal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="853" LastActivityDate="2017-12-22T15:03:45.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6774" CreationDate="2017-12-22T20:07:03.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest (but it depends what you actually want, looks wise):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drill all the way through, smaller than the widest part of the stone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Counterbore (depending on your available tools, you might drill this part first) a hole just bigger than the widest part of the stone partway through (depth depends on where you want the stone to be relative to the surface.) I'd then suggest using a countersink to open the surface of the back hole (without removing the narrower ledge) and possibly (again, depending on depth and desired look) the wider hole as well. Alternatively, consider a thinner hunk of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Superglue&quot; (cyanoanacrylate) is more typical than epoxy for this type of work in my limited experience. You might want a &quot;gel&quot; type to reduce the odds of it running where you don't want it. You are gluing the rim of the stone to the ledge formed by the smaller and larger holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be aware that purpleheart tends to turn brown over time. I think it also shows up on the lists of woods people may be (or become) allergic to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a completely different approach that is probably a bit tricky on the small scale, you could silver the back of the stone (like a mirror.) A somewhat easier approach might be to use a standard &quot;guitar fingerboard marker&quot; mother-of pearl dot behind the stone (white, somewhat reflective, many sizes available, not prone to tarnish as silver not bonded to the gem would be.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3334" LastEditorUserId="3334" LastEditDate="2017-12-22T20:17:39.583" LastActivityDate="2017-12-22T20:17:39.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6777" CreationDate="2017-12-23T18:07:22.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may be worth mentioning that you have many choices other than repairing the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.screwfix.com/p/white-assembly-joint-x-10-pack/25399&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Furniture blocks&lt;/a&gt; (AKA assembly joints) and wood-screws.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A regular bolt and nut with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-penny-washers-m5-x-1-2mm-10-pack/2086t&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;repair washers&lt;/a&gt; to spread the load.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dowels and wood-glue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace the cam with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-plug-cutter-12-7-x-58mm/86109&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wooden plug&lt;/a&gt;, pilot-drill across the plug and use a long screw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cam-bolts make furniture easy to assemble and disassemble but if you don't plan to disassemble the furniture often, or ever, the other methods might be a feasible solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="158" LastActivityDate="2017-12-23T18:07:22.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6770" CreationDate="2017-12-23T19:22:13.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Finishing is under most circumstances, messy and there really isn't a way around this. No matter how careful you are, there will be drips, runs, splatter, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've already mentioned a few possible constraints like not spraying and finishing indoors.   Let me address the latter first.  The typical concern indoors is VOC's and explosion hazards.  Because of this, I would recommend a waterborne (water based) finish.  There are some good quality, WB lacquers that can be brushed or sprayed.  One I've worked with is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.targetcoatings.com/product/emtech-em6600-wb-raven-black-lacquer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Target Coatings Emtech EM6600&lt;/a&gt; (no affiliation to them just a good product IMO).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A common reason people don't want to spray is that it is messy to due overspray.  I would suggest that regardless of what method you chose, you are going to need to mask off and cover parts of the room.  Covering everything in plastic drop sheets taping them down is a bit of work but at the end of the day is not all that difficult and will ensure everything near by stays perfectly clean.  Once you have this in place, spraying might be a viable option, or you might consider a hybrid approach (brush and sprayer) for different areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as refinishing the cabinet, you are going to need to sand it no matter what method you use.  You should then put down a sealer coat - shellac is a good universal sealer and you can even find WB-based variants (see the site I linked to previously).  From here you will apply a pigmented coat - could be lacquer, latex-based paint, etc.  Optionally you can put on a top clear coat if the finish of the pigmented layer doesn't meet your required level of shine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2017-12-23T19:22:13.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2258" CreationDate="2017-12-25T07:37:35.130" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just glue a sidegrain hardwood border around it, run it through your planer (lightly with sharp knives), then cut the border off if you want. There's always an easier way.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4614" LastActivityDate="2017-12-25T07:37:35.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6786" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6787" CreationDate="2017-12-26T20:38:28.853" Score="2" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my GCSE Design and Technology coursework, I am making an MP3 docking station: basically a speaker. My design features a plywood box that sits on a base, which is the same shape as the box but larger than the box. This base is very thin, 3 mm thick, and I am making metal feet on a lathe to attach to the base. My question is: How do I attach feet to this thin base, or would I attach them to the base underneath the ply box?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4617" LastActivityDate="2017-12-26T21:33:06.280" Title="How would I attach feet to my product?" Tags="|joinery|wood|plywood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6786" CreationDate="2017-12-26T21:33:06.280" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It all depends on how much work you want to go to.  The easiest would be some sort of adhesive.  Depending on the material the base is made from, you could use an epoxy, contact cement, or silicon caulk.  Even the spray adhesives would likely work.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also add a threaded hole on the top of your legs and attach the legs to the base with a machine screw.  The top of the screw could be made decorative to make it part of the design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How you make it will largely depend on the goal of the design - production prototype vs one-off item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2017-12-26T21:33:06.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3232" CreationDate="2017-12-27T17:15:18.023" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just a simple note on your climate data: it is for &lt;em&gt;outdoor&lt;/em&gt;. Since most of wooden furniture will sit &lt;em&gt;indoor&lt;/em&gt;, you have to calculate for indoor climate. Which - thanks to heating and A/C - will pretty much differ from and much more stable than outdoor climate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To have an impression, here is a diagram of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Equilibrium_moisture_content&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;calculated equilibrium moisture content&lt;/a&gt; in my workshop, based on RH-T logs I started to record recently:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/inl3x.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/inl3x.png&quot; alt=&quot;Calculated MC_eq&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4621" LastEditorUserId="4621" LastEditDate="2017-12-27T18:44:06.837" LastActivityDate="2017-12-27T18:44:06.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6789" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-28T01:11:58.513" Score="2" ViewCount="346" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm designing an outdoor bench. It will be made out of 1in plywood and pressure treated 2x4s. I'm wanting an 8ft length (give or take). The seat will be 7 2x4s. Can I get away with an open span? or do I need to add another bracing section?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5eHX2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5eHX2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;iso view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a fly around of the bench if that helps &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/OLPQDtLKUG8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/OLPQDtLKUG8&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry if this is a stupid question. I tried the sagulator, but it didn't have pressure treated as an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I realized this design had two fatal flaws regardless of the weight on the seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is no real horizontal shear support for the base&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Having a long flat base as this does, will not sit well on an unlevel surface like my yard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what I ended up with. This thing could support an elephant!!&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/372NY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/372NY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Final Product&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4623" LastEditorUserId="4623" LastEditDate="2017-12-31T22:37:34.383" LastActivityDate="2017-12-31T22:37:34.383" Title="How can I figure out how much weight this span could support?" Tags="|design|pressure-treated|weight-capacity|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6790" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6791" CreationDate="2017-12-28T02:26:35.550" Score="2" ViewCount="1132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wish to patch/fill a knot hole in a pine panel at a jointed edge. The hole is only a few mm deep. I don't think doing a sawdust + epoxy/shellac/glue filler will sit well with an oil finish, and I've managed to do without it this far -- so I'm considering trying a special patch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to make a dutch patch containing a knot (or even better, a semi-circular knot!), without the branch loosening out of the patch as I cut it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/foGWem.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/foGWem.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;elongated hole photo&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's knotty pine, so having just that one filled might look odd, hence why I'd prefer a &quot;knotted&quot; patch over a sawdust fill:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AC3KIm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AC3KIm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;*Edit -- Fixed it. Reporting on results *&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following advice in the answers and comments, I've accepted to use non-wood products into the table. I figured that in the worst case, I could still do the patch. But I am quite satisfied with the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Materials:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A small tube of &quot;Dark Umber&quot; artist oil paint bought at local craft store.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A &quot;syringe&quot; of clear 5-minute epoxy bought at the local hardware store&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In clean plastic container add, in one corner, a dab of (yet unmixed) epoxy, and in another, a smaller dab of paint. Using a toothpick, stir gradually more and more of the pigment until desired color is obtained. Create a gradient (mess) of colors to pick from. (&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Er7c.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;full res&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Er7cm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Er7cm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;mixture&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mix in fine sawdust from a scraping session, which yields a more matte and opaque result. Without sawdust, the cured epoxy is very vitrous and transparent. You can also obtain opaque epoxy without sawdust by using more pigment.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use the toothpick as an applicator on the work piece. Disturb as little as possible what is already filled when adding more. I accidentally created mini air bubbles when trying to &quot;pack&quot; more in. (&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ke7fx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;full res&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ke7fxm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ke7fxm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;application&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Waited 16h (the recommended full-cure time on the product), and removed most of the cured excess with a sharp chisel. Then card-scraped the rest. I'm pleased with the results. (&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BkGrH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;full res&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BkGrHm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BkGrHm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;filled and scraped&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note&lt;/em&gt;: The addition of oil-based pigment to an epoxy resin reduces the final hardness of the cured epoxy. This might be important to consider when using epoxy as an adhesive bond between two objects -- but it doesn't matter as much when used as a filler. In fact, the cured epoxy obtained is much harder than the surrounding wood -- can't sink or scratch it with fingernails.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Similar questions:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rectangular dutchman patch&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/905/what-is-the-difference-between-a-dutchman-patch-and-a-butterfly-patch&quot;&gt;What is the difference between a dutchman patch and a butterfly patch?&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://makezine.com/projects/dutchman-wood-repair/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://makezine.com/projects/dutchman-wood-repair/&lt;/a&gt; )&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Filling void with epoxy&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/6313/voids-epoxy-and-staining-compatibility&quot;&gt;Voids, epoxy and staining compatibility&lt;/a&gt;  (It's the only such repair on the panel, and I consider it too small of a fix to be worth &quot;emphasizing&quot; with colored epoxy, plus the whole color matching issue)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2018-02-02T06:07:20.677" LastActivityDate="2018-02-02T06:07:20.677" Title="Fixing small knot hole in pine -- compatible with oil finish" Tags="|wood-repair|pine|filler|knots|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6790" CreationDate="2017-12-28T08:04:51.617" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I don't think doing a sawdust + epoxy/shellac/glue filler will sit well with an oil finish&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually they're fine. Fills don't have to absorb the oil in the same way as the surrounding wood, especially very small fills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hate to recommend it but this is a good candidate for commercial wood filler. If you have one on hand that's a colour you could live I don't think you should hesitate to use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't keep any commercial wood fillers so I'd just fill this with an epoxy mix. I keep a range of wood dusts for this purpose so I can make up a range of colours as needed, but if you only have the nearly white dust from sanding pine you can use that and tint it brown with a little bit of a suitable oil-based paint*. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be aiming for a colour that reasonably approximated that of the nearby full knot. I'd expect this repair to be easily seen, and filled this way viewers will just accept it as another knot without question. If you nail the colour they could look closely and still not be able to tell it's a fill!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*If you would have to buy some oil paint specially for this I guarantee it has further uses in woodworking so it's a good investment. And the paint will last nearly indefinitely — 20 years easy! — if the cap is a good fit and the tube remains undamaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-12-28T08:04:51.617" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6347" CreationDate="2017-12-28T08:51:05.413" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is this a reasonable approach for a 9.5&quot; piece that's basically hanging off in the ether? Is there any advantage to doing individual tenons on each board rather than a single long one ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think there's anything wrong with beefy breadboard ends if it's the desired look. It is not a technical necessity that they be this big however. If larger breadboard ends are on the plans, then, generally speaking, they should be accompanied by larger tenons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Multiple tenons vs a single one&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using the image below as a visual reference -- but only to improve clarity, not to prescribe a particular construction. As far as going for &#xA; &lt;em&gt;option 1: &quot;multiple tenons + one continuous tongue&quot;&lt;/em&gt; versus &lt;em&gt;option 2: &quot;one long tenon&quot;&lt;/em&gt;, multiple tenons will offer additional strength to your end piece -- between each tenon (i.e. the material outside the volume defined by the blue transparent outline in the illustration's end piece), there will be solid wood linking the underside of the breadboard end, to the topside.  It allows the end piece to keep its shape under pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Multiple tenons also require less material to be removed from the mortise, which is generally the more difficult piece to create (at least, with handtools).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, even with multiple tenons, you should keep a tongue (the &quot;Haunch&quot; in the photo) that goes the entire width of your panel (as if you had a single tenon for the first 3/4&quot; of the tenons depth). It it will help prevent cupping for parts of the panel between tenons (if they are far apart). To a lesser degree, it will also prevent light (or liquids) from passing through if your joinery is not completely flush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dDMwn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dDMwn.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(image from woodcraft &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodcraft.com/blog_entries/breadboard-ends&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Breadboard Ends&lt;/a&gt; article)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine, for a second, that your breadboard end piece is a hardcover book whose paper pages have been removed, folded closed over the tenon(s). You will want to prevent it from bending or splitting open as you apply downwards force to the table edge. In other words, you want to keep points &lt;code&gt;A&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;B&lt;/code&gt; close to one another in the side-view sketch below. Leaving a gap between tenons (as opposed to a single long tenon) helps with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1blO7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1blO7.png&quot; alt=&quot;side view of joint&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is a 2&quot; tenon deep enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 2&quot; tenon, if I understand the plan, would leave 7.5&quot; of the width of the endpiece (just under 80% of the weight) unsupported. Intuitively, I'd say longer tenons are required. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a rule that tenons in breadboard ends should be 2/3 the length of the width of the breadboard end (minus 1/16in or so at the bottom to account for glue space). Sometimes though, these rules of thumb only work at smaller scales, and don't take into account other factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quoting woodmagazine: &lt;em&gt;The breadboard ends are usually 2&quot; to 3&quot; wide, but you can make them wider or narrower for larger or smaller panels, if you wish. In either case, make the mortise depth about two-thirds the width of the end piece.&lt;/em&gt;&#xA; -- &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/joinery/breadboard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/joinery/breadboard&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've personally achieved good solid results with a 2.5in tenon in a 5in wide endpiece (in 1.25in thick pine) which is a 50-50 ratio instead of 2/3. I personally consider a construction &quot;solid&quot; if it allows an adult (after dinner) to lean or sit on the edge of the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One danger you run into when doing a shorter tenon (for 2&quot;) is for your breadboard end to &quot;bend down&quot; or wiggle as you apply weight or lift. This is especially true if the fit between the tenons and female endpiece offers some slack. If the pieces are really tight-fitted, then shorter tenons (than the rule of thumb) might suffice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to consider, which could allow a less deep tenon, is the total amount of overhang you will have (distance between table edge and the closest supporting element). If your aprons/trestle/support allows for the largest BB-end overhang, then you might want to reconsider beefy tenons. Similarly, if you added aprons, and they offered some support to your bb ends, then you could get away with smaller tenons, because the weight would be partly transferred to the support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Becksvoort mentions overhang at the very end of the finewoodworking article &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.finewoodworking.com/media/TabletopsFlat.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Keeping Tabletops Flat&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;For overhangs of 14 in. or less, I tend to&#xA;avoid breadboard ends because the cross&#xA;brace at the top of the leg is close enough&#xA;to keep the table flat. But they are a good&#xA;option for overhangs of 18 in. or more.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's got more to do with preventing warp than a falling breadboard end, but it a signal that overhang does matter. And that may convince you one way or another to drop the BB altogether.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect digging a 6.25&quot; mortise (2/3 of 9.5) may be pushing some limits, tool-wise. If you do go the breadboard end route, and settle on tenon/mortise dimensions that are, in the end, not to your satisfaction, you can always correct the situation with (longer) floating tenons, the addition of a brace under the table, or trim down your breadboard end in width (e.g. 7.5&quot; instead of 9.5&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;there's no &quot;center.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your assumption is correct. The glue will prevent expansion, and expansion will occur on both sides of the glue. The geometric center of your board is at the junction of your two middle boards. Regardless of if they are edge jointed with glue or not, you can still form a central tenon which is composed half of one board, and half the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Becksvoort uses a 4in band of glue on the center tenon. This, presumably, will imply 2in on each side of the geometric centerline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2018-03-05T17:48:31.870" LastActivityDate="2018-03-05T17:48:31.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6793" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-29T15:22:55.930" Score="6" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to drill two pieces of wood similar to the angled pieces marked in blue. However, I'm not sure how to clamp these and can't drill them straight without the wood slipping. What's the best way to join them? &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rqxfm.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rqxfm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4636" LastActivityDate="2017-12-31T18:02:57.480" Title="Not sure how to successfully drill these pieces" Tags="|joinery|drilling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6793" CreationDate="2017-12-29T17:48:18.393" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a variety of strategies that can get you drilling the direction you would like. One of the simpler methods requiring no special jig or prep is to begin by drilling a shallow starter hole perpendicular to the surface where you want your final bore to begin. Once a starter hole is drilled, simply reposition the drill and drill in the direction you want to go. You can dial in the accuracy by off-setting the location of the starter hole. You may want to practice in some scrap material to get the feel of where your bores will go in relation to the angles and drill size you are using. Sometimes, using a larger drill for the starter can be helpful but most of the time the same size bit can be used. With practice, one can achieve a high degree of accuracy and repeatability applying this method. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is essentially a rough approximation of carefully chiseling an alcove in the material resulting in a flat surface perpendicular to the direction of your final desired bore. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creating a custom pocket hole jig would be an example of a more labor intensive process up front but may be worthwhile if highly repeatable precision is desired. In that case, efficient and accurate positioning and clamping present their own learning curves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4327" LastActivityDate="2017-12-29T17:48:18.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6795" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6797" CreationDate="2017-12-29T22:52:21.753" Score="2" ViewCount="4283" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have built a very simple desk out of laminated panels; two legs connected with a back board held by L brackets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xiICT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xiICT.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem is it is still quite wobbly horizontally and I was hoping the back board would prevent it and it does, but not as much as I would like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top is not yet connected because I don't want to move further without a proper way to fix the wobble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The connections have no play and they are flushed together, so I ruled out the possibility of the back board being kind of loose at the L connections which means I will have to add more support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem is I can't see which is the ideal way to fix this while occupying the least amount of space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that just mounting the top will not prevent the wobble because this wobble is horizontal and the top will only prevent the legs from skewing, which is not related to the horizontal wobble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ENTDP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ENTDP.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I have thought about adding corner brackets between the legs and the top&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Iz4Mu.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Iz4Mu.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I also thought the back board would be enough, so I might be wrong here and would like some help before moving on. Does anyone know how can I fix this horizontal wobble while occupying the least amount of space? Do take into account that there has to be space left at the front for the legs to come in while sitting, this is not a standing desk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4637" LastActivityDate="2017-12-30T09:22:15.963" Title="How can I fix this wobbly desk" Tags="|furniture|tabletop|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6795" CreationDate="2017-12-30T03:19:13.653" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the top is affixed to the sides and the back, it should prevent the wobble.  All four of the pieces interlock to make it solid - if any one is missing, it will not be as stable.  If you had an extremely rigid connection between the top and the two sides, that would be solid enough right there.  The problem is that it is difficult to achieve that connection with a thin piece of wood.  The back piece you added effectively forms triangles to provide this extra needed structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2017-12-30T03:19:13.653" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6795" CreationDate="2017-12-30T09:22:15.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the drawing there is already a back panel.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I see two options:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use another one on the down side of the side panels (but this can annoy when you use the bench)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you can try to use a bigger back panel, ideally it should have a height of at least half the side panels, from the top.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, personally I whould avoid the L shaped connectors: I whould screw the screw directly on the wood to be able to use some longer screws, as you probably have done for the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3386" LastActivityDate="2017-12-30T09:22:15.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6793" CreationDate="2017-12-30T09:43:12.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how to clamp these &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Old trick&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In certain situations you can clamp the wood and then clamp to the clamp. This was a regular use of handscrews back when they were one of the only clamps around. The workpiece could be clamped with one handscrew and then that was clamped to a flat surface with a second, to allow planing or chiselling to be done without risk of the workpiece moving when a vice was not available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in this case, clamp a clamp that gets a very firm grip on the wood (e.g. a C-clamp*) at a suitable angle and then you can clamp against this clamp to the vertical member you're attaching to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the size of the C-clamp used this may not allow you to use a commercial pocket-screw jig because a smaller clamps is sure to be in the way. This may force you to drill the holes freehand by one method or another if done in situ, or you can use my final suggestion at bottom. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Even older trick&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Temporarily glue blocks to the outside of a workpiece to allow clamping. Today this seems a bit odd but it used to be a common method used for assembling larger frames with mitred corners for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A modern alternative to glueing on blocks is given in this Q&amp;amp;A, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2752/how-do-i-temporarily-attach-two-pieces-of-wood-together-for-machining&quot;&gt;How do I temporarily attach two pieces of wood together for machining?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Done right this method could definitely allow the use of a commercial pocket-screw jig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you find your jig can't be used...&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;...go a different way entirely. Drill the clearance holes in the angled pieces separately (not with them in place) and then rely on self-tapping screws to create their own pilot holes once positioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If needed see a couple of previous Answers for more info, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2708/are-there-specific-types-of-screws-i-should-use-for-woodworking/2714#2714&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; on the difference between clearance and pilot holes and &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1716/how-can-you-make-a-regular-screw-into-a-self-tapping-screw/1735#1735&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for how to convert any screw to be self-tapping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Be sure to pad the jaws with scraps to prevent dents being created in the workpiece. C-clamps are very powerful and can even bruise dense hardwoods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-12-30T09:43:12.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6799" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6804" CreationDate="2017-12-30T15:45:03.510" Score="3" ViewCount="4135" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best image I have found showing a method for making accurate bevel cuts with a jigsaw can be seen &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.familyhandyman.com/tools/jigsaw-tips-and-essentials/view-all/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. There are also numerous homemade jigsaw table videos and plans around. I don't really want to make a jigsaw table just to make a couple of angled cuts but I've tried and failed to do it accurately by eye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Parameters:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to use a jigsaw, not a table saw or circular saw (because I got one for christmas and I'm stubborn like that)&#xA;I need to make a 45 degree bevel cut along the edge face of a board as illustrated at the above link, not a simple picture frame mitre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any plans for a simple jig to accomplish this? I've done a lot of googling but haven't found anything with any level of detail so thought i woukd ask here before designing my own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My effort&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e5MCo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e5MCo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aICro.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aICro.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lAfpp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lAfpp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4638" LastEditorUserId="4638" LastEditDate="2017-12-31T17:55:42.467" LastActivityDate="2017-12-31T17:55:42.467" Title="Jigsaw bevel cut jig" Tags="|jig|jigsaw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6800" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6803" CreationDate="2017-12-30T20:20:31.003" Score="2" ViewCount="5641" Body="&lt;p&gt;My home has random width knotty pine flooring throughout (even in the bathrooms!) and it is in terrible shape in the kitchen. It is beautiful so I'd like to salvage it rather than replace it but I don't want to waste a ton of money and time doing it just to find it is not going to be able to wear well regardless of the finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any suggestions for a way to harden and finish the wood so it will last? There are some deep gouges, some splits and cupping in some of the boards - I don't expect perfection in the final product, it adds character -  just improved endurance.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SazCc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SazCc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you in advance for any advice you can offer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4639" LastActivityDate="2023-03-09T14:41:31.927" Title="refinishing soft pine floors" Tags="|refinishing|pine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6800" CreationDate="2017-12-30T23:10:40.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would begin with a good sanding to eliminate all the defects.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;After that, you can spread a couple of layers of epoxy resin, there are some of them that are specific for this use. As finish touch, an anti UV polyurethane paint to avoid the yellowing of the epoxy. This way you should be able to fill all the gaps and defects in the wood.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want, you can also paint the pine wood with a colored impregnating agent for wood to add some personality (I don't like so much che color of the pine, but it is personal)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way you should be able to make the job without spending too much  money and probably being able to do it yourself and, of course, both for the epoxy and the polyurethane paint, I only offer some suggestions, follow the manufacturer's instructions on how and how many layers are necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3386" LastActivityDate="2017-12-30T23:10:40.743" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6799" CreationDate="2017-12-30T23:22:56.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that the jigsaw does not seems to be the best tool to make what you want (the circular saw is far better), I think that the image you show is one of the better way to do it. The only think I would add is a spare piece of wood under your piece in order to have a better and cleaner cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise the jig in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pLndE0WuLtA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; seens to work reasonably well. At the end of the video there are the measures of the various pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pLndE0WuLtA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pLndE0WuLtA&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3386" LastActivityDate="2017-12-30T23:22:56.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6800" CreationDate="2017-12-31T08:56:14.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;it is in terrible shape in the kitchen&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High-traffic zone there, consider a rug or a runner to lesser the wear and tear on the floor at that point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any suggestions for a way to harden and finish the wood so it will last? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue really isn't as much to do with the wood as with the finish. Although pine is a relatively soft wood it doesn't look like the floorboards themselves have weathered poorly in the photo, it's mainly the varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to be fair to the varnish it's not its fault that it began to flake off, ALL floor finishes (all wood finishes period) regardless of cost will fail eventually with cleaning and surface wear. What you weigh is a balance between cost, ease of use/application, looks, level of protection, wear characteristics (resistance to wear, wear modes) etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So hardening the wood shouldn't really be a primary thought and many finishes will be harder than the wood itself and will toughen up its surface somewhat. Pine floors are innately softer than hardwood floors and a certain acceptance of this is a must if you have them. Pine &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; collect dents and scratches more easily. On the plus side with floors they are nearly universally full-thickness boards, not merely a surface veneer glued to some substrate. This means pine floors can be sanded down and refinished many more times, giving working lives of a century + instead of a few decades, at best, for laminate flooring&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;but I don't want to waste a ton of money and time doing it just to find it is not going to be able to wear well regardless of the finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First, sanding&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;First thing you need to get your head around is the need to sand. Unless you fancy sitting on the floor for hours scraping the surface like they did in the 19th century the only way to refinish a floor is by sanding it (see this previous Answer for more on that, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4941/how-to-fix-a-wooden-floor/4942#4942&quot;&gt;How to fix a wooden floor&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Now, what finish?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There are many options available to the homeowner today on floor finishes but they fall into two broad categories, penetrating and film finishes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Broadly speaking the former will age more gracefully than the latter. With film finishes — your floor currently has one of those on it — once they fail they begin to literally flake or peel from the surface starting from any minor point of damage. With penetrating finishes you get a much more gradual failure mode, where the finish more slowly wears down to the bare wood across an area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to argue in favour of the penetrating finish, however there's a catch. The better film finishes will wear a lot longer, &lt;em&gt;years&lt;/em&gt; longer, before they begin to fail when in the intervening period penetrating finishes would mostly (invariably?) have begun to look tired in high-traffic areas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A penetrating finish &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be topped up easily enough, but on a surface the size of a floor this needs to be looked at realistically&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to this, film finishes provide better protection from water, wine, coffee, beer, pet accidents etc. because the liquids basically never get to the wood. You can't ignore spills without consequence with most penetrating finishes (manufacturer claims notwithstanding) which can be a major consideration for those with a very active lifestyle and/or with kids in the house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A word of warning, while some floor coatings available now from the big names in finish are modestly priced some finishes (typically from 'boutique' makers or imported from Europe) are eye-wateringly expensive, so expect some sticker shock when you get to searching in earnest for what you'll use!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No-shoe policy&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The number one reason floors wear poorly is from tracked-in dirt and grit from outside&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;. If you ban outdoor footwear from the majority of the house your floors, regardless of what they're finished with, will last a lot longer in good condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Many laminates can be sanded only two or three times which at least the manufacturers are upfront about, and it's why those flooring options are relatively inexpensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; It's still basically refinishing the floor. Easy to spend an hour &quot;freshening up&quot; a tabletop or countertop every few years when it needs it. Can be quite a different story doing a floor even in only one room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Number two is from overcleaning. This tends to be a consequence of reason #1 so you can still blame outside dirt if you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-12-31T08:56:14.330" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6799" CreationDate="2017-12-31T09:10:26.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need a jig per se to do this successfully, you just need to run the jigsaw against a straightedge (the wooden fence in the image posted) paying careful attention to pressing the baseplate of the saw against the fence. Don't concentrate on the pushing motion, let the saw take care of the cut and work at its own rate, concentrate on pushing against the fence. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One or two practice cuts should see you getting reasonable results doing the above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you do need something more the simplest 'jig' is just &lt;em&gt;two&lt;/em&gt; straightedges which the saw's baseplate runs between. This completely prevents any potential for wander from the saw itself. Many circular saw and router jigs work on this principle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I need to make a 45 degree bevel cut along the edge face of a board as illustrated at the above link, not a simple picture frame mitre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure what you're doing here or what you're hoping for but if you're seeking a completed surface from the cut you're seeking in vain. Jigsaws just don't produce finish-ready cut faces, no matter how expensive the saw is or what blade you use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be expected that &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; jigsaw cuts, if they are to be seen (and not infrequently when not), should need planing* or sanding to finish them off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*If you do have a plane you can do the entire operation with it, after initial marking out in pencil planing can produce the bevelled edge you want in a single operation, without much trouble or undue effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2017-12-31T09:10:26.173" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6793" CreationDate="2017-12-31T18:02:57.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another approach is to drill from the back side with the pieces off the assembly.  It looks like a perpendicular hole from that side.  With a small hole drilled from the back side, you can enlarge it from the front if needed and also use it as a guide to drill the pilot hole into the back piece once it’s in position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2276" LastActivityDate="2017-12-31T18:02:57.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6806" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-01T19:01:59.013" Score="0" ViewCount="7725" Body="&lt;p&gt;As part of a renovation, my contractor had to remove some 60 year old Southern pine stair treads and replace with new ones. When staining to match the remaining treads, the color match was okay, but the new stairs came out blotchy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AIgNw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AIgNw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is brand new wood, with no existing finish. What would cause this, and what could be done to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4640" LastActivityDate="2018-01-01T19:01:59.013" Title="How to fix this blotchy staining job?" Tags="|finishing|staining|refinishing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6807" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-01T22:31:13.243" Score="2" ViewCount="2361" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ikea used to make these boxes that were made out of 1/4&quot; plywood connected with 8 galvanized metal brackets that had an extra lip on the top that helped keep the box together.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/razwj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/razwj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ikea Box&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to use the same method for making some boxes but I can't seem to find these kinds of brackets (pictured) anywhere.  I may be using the wrong keyword to search. I've tried box corner brackets with multiple variations to no avail. I've only found ones that don't have the lip at the top that grip the plywood.  The ones I've found only seem cosmetic and not structural.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LWACI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LWACI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bracket closeup, note the lip at the top that hugs the wood panel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know where one could find brackets like these mass produced?  I have asked local metal fabrication companies but they all say it would cost a lot to make custom ($30 a piece) I would need 8 that have a 1/4&quot; lip that can grip the panels of the box into place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4642" LastActivityDate="2021-01-04T14:09:19.037" Title="Search for metal brackets to join 1/4&quot; plywood boxes" Tags="|joinery|plywood|fasteners|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6808" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-02T17:21:40.473" Score="6" ViewCount="4103" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that joints should always be tight, but I suspect my dadoes are &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have done a couple of projects using dado joints. I cut using a router, either using a 3/4 inch bit, or using &quot;undersized&quot; bits for plywood. (I've either used an edge guide or clamped a board as a straight-edge, and this has generally worked quite well.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When dry-assembling the joints, I usually need to use a lot of force by hand or a mallet to seat the parts and to take them apart. Sometimes I need to lightly sand the joining board thinner in order to fit. So I would say these have been very tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I glue the joints, I am not always able to get the parts to fully seat in place - even using a mallet and clamps as tight as I can make them. I apply glue (Titebond III) to all contacting faces first. It feels like the glue quickly sets and I can't move the parts fully into place, but I suspect the grain is swelling so it doesn't actually fit anymore. Without being fully seated, the glue is only bonding at the edges of the joint, and I suspect it isn't very strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For past projects this has been &quot;good enough&quot; if not fully satisfying, but for an upcoming project I will need the precise fit and full strength of the joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't really adjust the width of the dado finely, but I could sand the joining boards more to achieve a looser fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a good way to know if a dado joint is loose enough to glue properly, but not so loose as to compromise the strength?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2458" LastActivityDate="2018-01-03T01:53:26.707" Title="How tight should a dado joint be?" Tags="|joinery|glue|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6808" CreationDate="2018-01-02T18:46:22.763" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some woodworkers are of the opinion that dado joints (UK: housing joints) can't be too tight as long as you can get them to engage and disengage without splintering. Others disagree and think an &quot;easy fit&quot; is about right, for one reason because tighter than this will tend to scrape glue from the wood and leave the joint surfaces 'starved'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I suspect the grain is swelling so it doesn't actually fit anymore. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yup. This is actually not an uncommon problem and often gets people in trouble with other joints too (e.g. dovetails and Dominos). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most common woodworking glues, including all the PVAs, have water in them so as soon as you put any such glue in contact with wood it wets it of course and it swells by a tiny amount. So obviously one possible workaround is not to use a glue that contains water for the project, or just for these joints. No water, no swelling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think that's a satisfactory answer because you should be able to assemble an entire project with the one glue 99% of the time. So, IMO if your joints are prone to this problem &lt;em&gt;that's&lt;/em&gt; how you tell you're cutting them too tight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I can't really adjust the width of the dado finely, but I could sand the joining boards more to achieve a looser fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Better to use a plane if available. You can take shavings off the underside of a shelf and accurately and repeatably take of just a couple of thou at a time, allowing you to sneak up on a perfect fit. Usually a lot faster and more accurately than by sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a good way to know if a dado joint is loose enough to glue properly, but not so loose as to compromise the strength?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Destructive testing on your part of some test joints may be the only way to satisfactorily answer this for you given the range of opinions on the matter but.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.....most things won't be held together by dado joints only so they don't have to do all the work of keeping something solid. That means that even if each joint isn't quite as strong as it could be it's helped by its neighbours and more importantly by the other surrounding joints, all of which are maximised for strength already if done properly. Taken together it's very likely you'll end up with something strong enough for what it needs to do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-01-02T18:46:22.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6808" CreationDate="2018-01-03T01:53:26.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience is that 'tap tight' is about perfect.  It should take a light tap with your hand or a wooden mallet to drive the board fast into the dado when dry fitting.  Since you specifically mentioned plywood and a router, the easiest way to get a precise fit is to make a jig that is exactly the width of your boards, and use it with a top bearing (mortising) bit. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ls7Uv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ls7Uv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dV1qU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dV1qU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is nice because it works for any width of dado.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to cut the plywood to fit.  This was taught to me by a long time production cabinet shop manager.  Mount a 3 wing slot cutter bit in the router table.  Set the distance from the fence to the tip of the cutter to be equal to the depth of your dado.  Set the height of the cutter to be the width of the dado.  This will cut just enough off the plywood to fit tightly in the dado, and give you a joint that looks similar to this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ONnsg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ONnsg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and is very easy to do in a large production environment.  The downside is that your joints can look a little 'odd', but it is great for hidden joinery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2018-01-03T01:53:26.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6812" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-04T13:49:58.337" Score="1" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a fishtank with the following dimensions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Length: 4 ft&#xA;Depth: 1 ft&#xA;Height: 1.5ft&#xA;Total volume: 170l&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tank is fairly hefty glass, and has a flat base (Which means the weight will be evenly distributed across the base, rather than just around the edges).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to build a work surface in my kitchen that will hold the fish tank on top (and maybe also have space in front of it to eat breakfast). It will need to be fairly tall to accommodate this. The dimensions I was thinking are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Length: about the same as the tank, with a slight overlap - i.e. 4ft&#xA;Height: 3ft&#xA;Depth: 1.5ft (so tank + 6 inches) or perhaps a little more&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to be able to fit my bins under the table, and sit at it - hence the height. This height also matches that of the other worktops in my kitchen, so it works well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want this to be free-standing - i.e. not attached to the wall. There's a radiator behind it (not ideal for the tank really, but that's the only spare space we have).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I have watched this video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/wPMn0xXjZF4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/wPMn0xXjZF4&lt;/a&gt; which has given me some idea of what I need to do, but I still have a few questions as I don't want that exact design (his height is about right but it's deeper and longer than I need), and this is my first major design project so I need more basic help than he's offering:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The weight of the tank + water is over 200kg. The video suggests x4 for a live load, so I'm coming up to 1000kg of load all-in. How should I allow for that in my design?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't want the horizontal supports on the bottom of the front edge, as we need potentially to be able to sit with our legs under it. The other three edges can have them though. Obviously I won't clad the front edge either&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What kind of wood / thickness of wood would be appropriate for the legs / supports?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for any and all advice you can give me for this project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4654" LastActivityDate="2018-01-04T13:49:58.337" Title="Building a kitchen table to hold a fishtank" Tags="|design|table-making|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6813" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-04T17:01:37.847" Score="1" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a teak deck which has been damaged and as a result, there are chunks missing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I used to fill in the missing chunks? will the results be indistinguishable from the rest of the teak?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4655" LastActivityDate="2018-01-04T18:00:29.667" Title="How do I fill teak" Tags="|filler|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6813" CreationDate="2018-01-04T18:00:29.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the chunks are small, you can try to fill with some epoxy mixed with sawdust while if the chunks are big or affect a decent portion of a strip of teak, probably the only real solution is to replace the entire strip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the appearance, you can try to choose some strips with the color as similar as possible to the old ones, but probably some differences there will be, if not for the fact that some strips are newer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A possible solution, though much more complex and labour intensive, is to remove all the strips and then use some new and some old so it look like it was deliberate: for example you can put all the new strips on the side(s) or the center or make some type of pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3386" LastActivityDate="2018-01-04T18:00:29.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6807" CreationDate="2018-01-05T01:21:05.477" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best solution at this point is to contact a local fabricator that can fabricate a piece like this since the exact thickness of the wood is needed in order to work with the bracket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4642" LastActivityDate="2018-01-05T01:21:05.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6817" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-05T12:38:30.493" Score="1" ViewCount="63" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am an amateur at wood working and am taking my time on my first large project, a &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/6654/are-there-any-non-obvious-specifically-structural-concerns-to-building-a-walk&quot;&gt;walk-in wardrobe&lt;/a&gt; for some awkward space in my bedroom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've went over and over my plans to make sure they are what I want and now it has come time to buy wood.  At a woodworking class I did recently, it was suggested by the lecturer that I use engineered pine for most of the work as it's inexpensive and doesn't have the ugly look of MDF.&#xA;After looking around, it doesn't really seem to come in sizes of 620mm (wardrobe depth)x7ft(roof height).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from that, searching for &quot;Engineered Wood&quot; or &quot;Engineered Pine&quot; always comes up with flooring online on Google and it doesn't seem to exist in any other form on timber merchants websites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I using the wrong terminology to search for the suggested wood or am I right in thinking it doesn't really come in those sizes.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Alternatively, is there a better good quality wood that comes in larger sizes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2827" LastActivityDate="2018-01-05T12:38:30.493" Title="How do I select wood types for a walk in wardrobe?" Tags="|wood-selection|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6818" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-05T17:15:50.267" Score="0" ViewCount="608" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was a little inattentive at a recent estate sale and as a result bought four halves of a pipe clamp hardware kit.  Specifically, I bought four of the stationary ends with the screw mechanism, as below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sL92v.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sL92v.png&quot; alt=&quot;screw end&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I need are another four of the sliding ends, pictured below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qf2Ok.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qf2Ok.png&quot; alt=&quot;sliding end&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from lucking into finding these at another estate sale or ebay, does anyone know where I might find just half of the pipe clamp hardware kit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2018-02-11T00:57:37.623" Title="Where to get half of a pipe clamp" Tags="|clamps|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6819" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7030" CreationDate="2018-01-06T05:24:24.967" Score="3" ViewCount="4014" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was inspired to try to create this style of legs for a small side-table that I am building:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m9v8u.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m9v8u.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Interlocking table legs, the intended result&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I have been running into some trouble trying to work out how to construct it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been attempting to model it in SketchUp so that I can get all the measurements / angles worked out before I get to work, but I can't seem to figure out how to get the rotation of the legs right, so that the sides of each of the wooden strips on all three legs all lay flat against each other at the joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing I attempted was to simplify things a bit and just model 3 straight square legs, intersecting right in the middle of each other... each leg is angled at 45° inwards. I had assumed that a matching rotation of 45° of each leg about it's lengthwise axis would get everything lined up, but it's ever so slightly off:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lAZwE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lAZwE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Digital rendering illustrating the mis-alignment issue&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is, how do I calculate the proper angle for the rotation of the legs, ideally for any given inward angle (ie: the legs will intersect closer to the top than the bottom, so are angled inwards at only 28°)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1410" LastActivityDate="2021-04-19T04:26:46.403" Title="How to calculate rotation for three square interlocking angled legs?" Tags="|joinery|planning|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5779" CreationDate="2018-01-06T22:09:24.287" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of running them in parallel (i.e. with a &quot;Y-joint&quot;) I would run them in series.  Plug the intake of the first shop vac into the exhaust of the second, then plug the intake of the second into your dust collection system.  This would definitely have more air flow and pull a higher vacuum for pulling clogs through. Also with two filters inline it would also filter better. Most of the debris would be in the second vacuum, so you would only have to empty (and change the filters on) one of them most of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4664" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2018-01-11T22:57:46.477" LastActivityDate="2018-01-11T22:57:46.477" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="50" CreationDate="2018-01-07T05:43:54.510" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tables in the restaurant were probably finished by a professional cabinet maker.  I would bet that they used a flat conversion varnish and didn't build up with extra coats.  I've been searching for finish like you describe for a few years now and i'm sorry to say that we can't achieve it without a professional sprayer set up (including spray booth).  There may be a place where you live that rents their spray booth. Don't waster your time trying the stuff that the other guys mentioned. I've tried all of that stuff and it doesn't work.  They don't really understand your question to begin with.&#xA;There is one thing that you can do at home that will come close to what you are talking about.  One coat of matte Ceramithane applied with a sureline paint pad.&#xA;It is water based, crystal clear, no yellow, amber, etc.  No change in color but very slightly darker. It darkens the wood like water on application but lightens when dry.  Cermithane is very viscose so it doesn't fill the pores and grain on the first coat so the wood texture is preserved. The Ceramithane is pretty tough and will protect the wood water and staining.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4665" LastActivityDate="2018-01-07T05:43:54.510" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6823" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-07T19:13:21.957" Score="4" ViewCount="3786" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in the process of restoring an item of furniture that had been painted black, back to a wood finish.  I started off by stripping off the paint with Citri-strip and sanding  it until it felt smooth. At this point parts of the wood had a pale greenish hue and others did not, but I proceeded, just hoping it would be covered by the stain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started with Minwax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner and followed it with a basic Minwax stain (yellow can). After the first coat I could tell it really wasn't absorbing evenly-- some areas were very, VERY dark while others looked more like what I'd expect after a first coat of stain. Apparently fairly dependent on how the wood grain had been cut on each piece. I could tell that a second coat would likely only make it worse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what kind of wood this item is made out of but it is rather soft, and I don't know exactly what kind of paint had been on it either-- some kind of fairly hard enamel. It originally had a pecan-toned wood finish but was painted at some point in the 1970s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is what should I do now to get a second chance at an even finish? My first reaction was to start sanding it down again to try to sand through the stain but I can tell it will take a lot of sanding to get through it. Should I just keep on sanding? Could I try chemically stripping it again? Once I get it back down to bare wood, &lt;strong&gt;what should I seal it with before staining so that this doesn't happen again&lt;/strong&gt;? The Minwax pre-stain seems to have been inadequate for this wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, any idea as to why parts of the wood might have looked greenish? My best guess was that it was a byproduct of the paint, but I don't know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4666" LastActivityDate="2018-05-11T21:56:48.630" Title="After stripping paint and applying wood stain, item is looking very blotchy... now what?" Tags="|wood|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6823" CreationDate="2018-01-07T22:27:06.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A stripper will remove the surface paint but will not remove any of the original paint that has penetrated into the grain.  For that, you must sand it down.  The fact that the stain was not absorbing evenly indicates one or both of the following: &#xA; 1. The wood is a soft wood such as pine which naturally absorbs much more in the soft areas of the grain and less in the denser areas.&#xA; 2. The original paint has not been fully removed.  The fact that you still had some color remaining after stripping suggests that this very well may have been a factor for uneven absorption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to get an even stain finish it will be necessary to remove all of the original paint remnants and the uneven new stain that has been absorbed into the wood.  This means sanding down to clear wood.  Thereafter I would recommend using a conditioner which will help avoid splotching, especially in soft woods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also suggest that you prepare an unseen area of the piece to test the application of the stain before proceeding with the whole piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2018-01-07T22:27:06.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6825" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-08T02:58:18.530" Score="1" ViewCount="100" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an issue with some areas on stain absorption in my birch cabinets. We sanded, pre-conditioned and stained the cabinets but now have some odd issues with the way it is setting. Not sure what the problem is. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4yM6k.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4yM6k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4667" LastActivityDate="2018-02-10T20:28:34.610" Title="Cabinet Stain Issues" Tags="|wood|staining|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6131" CreationDate="2018-01-08T04:08:28.990" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm late to this post, but wanted to add that I've tried a product called Waterlox, that has held up quite well for our wood kitchen counter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4668" LastActivityDate="2018-01-08T04:08:28.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6827" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6837" CreationDate="2018-01-08T13:24:07.200" Score="4" ViewCount="351" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a rip fence on my circular saw similar to the one here. What are the holes for? Can I add a longer piece of metal / wood to extend the fence? Wouldn't that then make the measurements on the fence inaccurate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BmS3E.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BmS3E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4638" LastActivityDate="2018-01-11T00:07:06.067" Title="What are the holes in a circular saw rip fence intended for" Tags="|circular-saw|fence|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6827" CreationDate="2018-01-08T14:02:47.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will affect the distance, but you can gain accuracy.  Measure and mark is always safer than using the measurements on the gauge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2018-01-08T14:02:47.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6830" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6833" CreationDate="2018-01-09T08:32:53.250" Score="0" ViewCount="2352" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are Makita Makpac containers compatible with Tanos systainers (Festool)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tanos systainers seem to be rather expensive while Makita Makpac prices are good. But still would be nice to know so all my tools can be stacked together - in case I decide to buy some Festool instrument which may come with Festool systainer right away?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1503&quot;&gt;Are systainer tool cases of different companies compatible with each other?&lt;/a&gt; question does not answer this specifically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4673" LastEditorUserId="2524" LastEditDate="2018-01-09T19:51:18.723" LastActivityDate="2018-01-09T19:51:18.723" Title="Are Makita Makpac containers compatible with Tanos T-Loc systainers (Festool)?" Tags="|tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6831" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6834" CreationDate="2018-01-09T09:40:28.543" Score="1" ViewCount="3903" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gone through &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.festool.de/produkte/systainer,-sortainer-und-systainer-port&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the catalogue&lt;/a&gt; of Festool systainers and I see a really big number of surprising options and approaches. It sounds like it's worth on investing into them to have everything unified. Though not yet sure of alternatives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the better alternatives of Tanos (Festool) T-Loc systainers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4673" LastActivityDate="2018-01-12T19:57:14.843" Title="Are there any alternatives of Tanos (Festool) T-Loc systainers" Tags="|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2018-01-09T16:31:20.433" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6830" CreationDate="2018-01-09T16:05:47.987" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the looks and what I read, they are the same as the old style Tanos Systainers.  Assuming that is so, they will stack underneath the newer T-LOC systainers, but not on top of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2018-01-09T16:05:47.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6831" CreationDate="2018-01-09T16:35:30.637" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It all depends on what it takes for it to be 'better' for you.  There are several major players with similar product lines.  Here are some of the big players in stacking tool boxes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tanos Systainer&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Offered in a variety of configurations, with different heights (Sys I - SYS V) and different footprints (Standard, Midi, and Maxi).  Also offer versions with drawers.  Probably the most complete system, but also the most expensive.  The container seals are not waterproof.  Used by several different vendors including Festool (white and green), Veritas (black and gold), and Makita (first generation, blue).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dewalt T-Stak&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Less expensive than Tanos and with fewer, but still many, configurations.  The containers seals are not waterproof. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dewalt.com/en-us/products/gear-and-equipment/tool-storage/tstak-ii--flat-top/dwst17807&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bosch L-Boxx&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Similar to Dewalt's T-Stak.   A few more options including a variety of part container sizes for the locking parts containers. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boschtools.com/us/en/boschtools-ocs/tool-and-accessory-storage-23539-c/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DeWalt ToughSystem&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Not nearly as complete of storage system as the Tanos or T-Stak, but much heavier duty.  These are very durable and have waterproof seals. Available in the US at Home Depot stores. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dewalt.com/products/gear-and-equipment/tool-storage/tough-system&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ridgid Tool Storage&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;These are similar to the Dewalt ToughSystem boxes.  Only three enclosed plus an open top boxes are available.  The enclosed boxes have waterproof seals and are all very durable.  Available in the US at Home Depot stores &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ridgid.eu/nl/en/professional-tool-storage-system&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Milwaukee Packout&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;This is the new kid on the block.  Just released in the fall of 2017, they offer a variety of toolboxes, parts containers, and open topped totes that interlock together.  Milwaukee has said they plan on expanding their offerings in this product line, but it is still fairly new.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Storage-Solutions/PACKOUT&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2018-01-12T19:57:14.843" LastActivityDate="2018-01-12T19:57:14.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6835" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-10T14:30:29.703" Score="2" ViewCount="610" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have black spots and streaks on some cedar siding that was replaced last summer. The new siding (right side of photo) was primed and painted with a stain (2 coats).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5mfDC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5mfDC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;black spots and streaks -- new siding on the right side&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(taken from: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.flickr.com/gp/bobkh/5t9wc7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.flickr.com/gp/bobkh/5t9wc7&lt;/a&gt; )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to fix this issue ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4680" LastEditorUserId="4680" LastEditDate="2018-01-11T14:38:53.383" LastActivityDate="2018-06-10T18:33:07.033" Title="Black spots and streaks on new (painted) cedar siding" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6835" CreationDate="2018-01-10T20:11:33.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To me it looks like mildew, even if only at the beginning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If true, you should give a good sanding to the wood and then you should use some anti-mustiness product and then reapply the primer and the paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually you can, before sanding to the wood, try to give a light sanding just to check if it is just superficial in which case you can probably just use some good anti mustiness product. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3386" LastEditorUserId="3386" LastEditDate="2018-01-11T10:08:15.913" LastActivityDate="2018-01-11T10:08:15.913" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6827" CreationDate="2018-01-11T00:07:06.067" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The holes are so you can attach a straight longer piece of wood to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4687" LastActivityDate="2018-01-11T00:07:06.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6825" CreationDate="2018-01-11T00:09:54.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would seal with shellac or wipe on poly top coat and re-apply stain. Or look into Gel Stain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4687" LastActivityDate="2018-01-11T00:09:54.167" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6840" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6843" CreationDate="2018-01-11T15:40:37.293" Score="4" ViewCount="348" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to build some basement shelving units but my basement floor slopes away from the wall for drainage purposes. I'm not sure if I should build the shelving so it's square with the wall or with the floor. Here are the pros/cons that I could think of for each method. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Square with wall&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pros&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will look straight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cons&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Technically crooked&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can't relocate to a flatter location without being crooked&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Square with floor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pros&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Technically straight/square&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can relocated to other area&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cons&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will look crooked with gap at top against the wall&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an obvious reason I'm missing on why I should do it one way over the other? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1172" LastActivityDate="2018-01-13T02:00:32.903" Title="Should I build basement shelving so it's square with the wall or with the floor?" Tags="|design|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6825" CreationDate="2018-01-11T19:11:04.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking the wood absorbed water in different areas before the stain was applied? I would try sanding it down, letting it dry for a couple days, and reapplying to see if it helps? Then apply a sealant to the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4692" LastActivityDate="2018-01-11T19:11:04.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6840" CreationDate="2018-01-11T22:59:34.263" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another solution you did not list would be to go ahead and build the shelf to be square itself, then shim underneath it to level out the floor. That way you can move it anytime but also make it look straight against the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2018-01-11T22:59:34.263" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6840" CreationDate="2018-01-12T06:37:37.850" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Expanding a bit, perhaps, on rob's answer, cabinetry (including shelving units) should be level and plumb (so aligned with the earth's gravitational field) and shimmed or scribed/trimmed/fitted as required to fit it to the space it occupies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is generally important to its function, so things don't roll off or fall over for example. It also may be the best looking (or close to it) because as humans we have a keen sense of the gravitational field we live in and things will look &quot;off&quot; if not aligned with that, even if the adjacent wall or floor is slanted. I'm not saying that will look great in that case, just that making the cabinet match isn't necessarily going to make it look better, and it definitely won't &lt;em&gt;feel&lt;/em&gt; better in use when things roll around or books fall over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2018-01-12T06:37:37.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1061" CreationDate="2018-01-12T20:04:20.223" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have time to read through the litany of guesswork by armchair engineers, but many pages into this no one mentions that the saw blade gullets should protrude above the cut by 1/4&quot; &quot;or so&quot; for proper blade cooling. Hot blades dull quickly. 90% of these are cautionary guesses by people scared of saw blades. Rightly so, that's why people in the business make guards, and use push-sticks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4695" LastActivityDate="2018-01-12T20:04:20.223" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6846" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-12T23:16:11.280" Score="1" ViewCount="90" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hopefully the question is clear. The threaded insert would be about a 1/2&quot; long, and the lumber would be 8/4. The insert would be for a leg or a headboard bracket. If it would compromise strength, I have alternatives, but this would be the most aesthetic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3740" LastActivityDate="2018-01-12T23:16:11.280" Title="Would a threaded insert placed in or near the seam of a biscuit joint affect its strength?" Tags="|joinery|furniture|strength|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6840" CreationDate="2018-01-13T02:00:32.903" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are floor leveling systems you could try that I’ve used for tile laying before, it even works great outside but may want to match the color or not since it’s going to have a shelf over it anyhow. Just a thought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4699" LastActivityDate="2018-01-13T02:00:32.903" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6848" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-14T19:41:23.073" Score="2" ViewCount="549" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a recessed bookshelf. The width is 83 inches and I am trying to divide this into thirds with two two x fours added in. So it will be 83in minus the 1.5 inches per board which gives me 80in. When I divide this by 3, I get 26.6. Here is where I run into trouble. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am unable to figure out where to mark the floor on a tape measure. If I have 26.6 in how does this translate into 3 even sections?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4702" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2018-06-07T15:57:27.837" LastActivityDate="2018-07-07T16:23:42.707" Title="How to divide bookshelf evenly?" Tags="|wood|measurement|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6849" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-15T03:11:22.363" Score="1" ViewCount="276" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm sanding some wooden pull up rings by hand, and I'd like to know of a technique to sand them so that the ring can rotate about its center, but still allow me to grip it with some sand paper in hand for rapid sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4703" LastActivityDate="2018-01-15T03:54:35.667" Title="How can I rotate a wooden ring and still be able to sand the inner/outer surface by hand?" Tags="|wood|sanding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6849" CreationDate="2018-01-15T03:54:35.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use double-sided tape or hot glue to attach the ring to a jig that rotates on the ring's center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't attach to the side of the ring, then you will have to use 2 attachment options, one for sanding the inside and one for sanding the outside--which isn't necessarily a bad option, if it is faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you have a lathe and appropriately-sized jaws for your chuck, you could sand the outside, then the inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2018-01-15T03:54:35.667" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4367" CreationDate="2018-01-15T21:56:15.580" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use baby oil that can be purchased at dollar stores to treat cutting boards. No scent whatsoever. If it is made for babies, you know it is safe, since babies put their mouth on everything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4705" LastActivityDate="2018-01-15T21:56:15.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6852" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-17T15:20:10.987" Score="1" ViewCount="126" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking for advice on achieving copycat look of the metal leg X-base; gold and marble table pic. &#xA;My skill set and budget doesn't allow for welding or purchasing custom base. Hoping to achieve the look with thin profile wood pieces and some spray paint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently stuck on how to attach the wood pieces to achieve the X look without having super visible joints and without compromising the stability/support it needs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;X-base measurements would be about(ish) W24&quot; D12&quot; H6&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Work space is apartment balcony; tools miter box and hand saw. &#xA;Thoughts and suggestions welcome!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AcmCc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AcmCc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example (metal)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vZzW3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vZzW3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wood inspiration&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4710" LastActivityDate="2018-01-18T18:43:06.517" Title="Copycat furniture legs" Tags="|technique|joinery|design|strength|miter-joint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6852" CreationDate="2018-01-18T18:43:06.517" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Currently stuck on how to attach the wood pieces to achieve the X look&#xA;  without having super visible joints and without compromising the&#xA;  stability/support it needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The metal legs appear to be approximately 1&quot; square.  That is a very slender profile for wood connections.  Unless you intend to apply a great deal or weight the 6&quot; high vertical legs should be able to support the load without bowing, but the connection points to the table top and the 'X' base could be under more stress than they can handle. The problem is racking. Each connection corner acts as a pin for rotation.  You want the joints to remain at 90 degrees, but any lateral force applied to the table will apply rotation force to them.  Your joints must be able to resist this force and an 1&quot; square contact will probably not be enough.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your comment about using three pieces of wood for the x brace is also a weak solution. Gluing wood as a simple end joint is very weak and will pull apart.  In addition the x brace keeps the leg bases in their proper location.  To do this you want both pieces to be continuous.  This means that a notched joint at their intersection is needed so that both pieces are continuous.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Work space is apartment balcony; tools miter box and hand saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is piece is intended to have any sort of 'Finished' appearance, achieving your goal with these resources will be very difficult.  I would suggest you consider finding a an educational forum in your community where you could work on this project with better tools and some experienced guidance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, Making wood act like metal is a bit counter-intuitive.  It is wood and performs best when the design acknowledges this fact.  Based upon your dimensions it does not have to be as cumbersome as your wooden table picture above, but should be  heftier than the metal base.  Take a look at other images online of similar size and you should get a better appreciation for what size and styles might work for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2018-01-18T18:43:06.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6854" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-18T18:55:09.117" Score="4" ViewCount="275" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Porter Cable dovetail jig that has clamps for holding the boards. (Other brands have similar clamps.) These have wide bars supported only at the ends, so there is room for a wide board to pass through. The clamp is actuated by a lever, with cams on a tube that spans the clamping bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The description refers to them as &quot;Heavy Duty Cam-Style Clamps&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lkmob.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lkmob.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Porter Cable Dovetail Jig&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am designing a CNC router, and would like to have a similar clamp on the end of the table holding the board upright within cutting reach. I have not been able to find kits or parts to replicate this type of clamp. Searching for &quot;Cam Style Clamps&quot; or variations finds many clamps of other types that are not suitable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a specific name for this type of clamp that is distinct from other cam-actuated clamps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, are there other types of clamps that are effective for holding wide boards in a vertical position at the end of a work bench or table?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2458" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2018-01-19T20:51:09.653" LastActivityDate="2018-01-22T14:50:56.370" Title="Is there another name for these heavy duty cam-style clamps?" Tags="|clamps|vises|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6854" CreationDate="2018-01-18T19:35:14.410" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another name for cam-style clamps is &lt;strong&gt;eccentric clamp&lt;/strong&gt;, named after the eccentric circle principal that it uses -- the rod goes through the black plastic cams closer to one end than the other, so when you rotate the rod, the portion of the cam between the rod and the clamped surface increases, providing clamping power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, searching for that doesn't get me any particularly great results for vises like the one on the dovetail jig. I did find &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/dovetailers-dream-vise&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt;, which explains how to build the same style of vise using cam clamps -- hopefully that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3830" LastActivityDate="2018-01-18T19:35:14.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6856" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6858" CreationDate="2018-01-20T01:45:37.027" Score="5" ViewCount="1441" Body="&lt;p&gt;There seems to exist two different procedures to finish wood with vegetal penetrating oils (raw linseed oil, boiled linseed oil, or pure tung oil). One method consists in letting the oil penetrate into the wood passively using only the power of passing time and a clean cloth, referred to as &quot;oil finishing&quot;, and the other consists in rubbing/burnishing the oil into the piece &lt;em&gt;ad nauseam&lt;/em&gt;, referred to as &quot;oil polishing&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find much information on oil polishing in newer/popular texts -- it seems to be more of a historical method. I may not have the nomenclature completely right, as I can't find a new or old text that covers both methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these two approaches complementary, or should they be perceived as alternatives to one another? What does the extra labour buy you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;A. Oil finishing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is coat-wait-wipe dry-and-repeat approach:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cover the work in a generous layer of oil using a soft cloth&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wait some amount of time between 10-30m for oil to penetrate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wipe all excess oil with a clean cloth&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wait between 24h and 48h depending on environment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;repeat (optionally de-nibbing with fine sandpaper or steel wool between coats)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quoting the label at the back of my bottle of BrandX linseed oil:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Apply on well sanded wood, concrete or stone that is free of lint, wax or debris. Apply sparingly with a soft cloth or brush. Do NOT apply with a sponge. For more even penetration, dilute with equal parts of BrandX turpentine or BrandX paint thinner. Always wipe off any oil that has not penetrated the surface after half an hour. Wait until the first coat is dry before applying a second coat...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar instructions are given for pure tung oil:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...&#xA;  The first coat should be a liberal one, and you can rub it over the wood with your hand, a soft rag, or #000 steel wool (#0000 deteriorates badly). Allow this application to sit for 5 to 10 minutes so the oil can soak in, then remove any excess with a clean, soft rag or steel wool. Check after about a half-hour for any seeping, and rub this off as well. Let dry completely (24 to 48 hours) between coats. For woods with very open pores, allow an extra 24 hours drying time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/en/html/56z1000ie.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;LeeValley tung oil PDF&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This approach also seems to be in line with popular practice (at least of the few who choose oil as a finish). E.g., it is what some spoonmakers &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mainecoastcraft.com/blog/an-oil-finish-for-hand-carved-wooden-spoons&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;recommend&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;B. Oil Polishing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some texts describe a much more laborious process, described as Oil Polishing or Oil-Polishing. It would appear that rubbing (and burnishing) is done with a padded heavy object (like a brick), and continues until the oil has completely penetrated into the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Central to oil polishing is linseed oil, and it should be used in its raw form [...] The oil is heated by placing it in a container  and standing it in a bowl of hot water which can be frequently renewed. Warm oil will flow much more easily. Assuming that the wood is smooth and clean, a generous film of oil is applied, using a broad brush. The rubbing is done with a soft felt wrapped round a brick, and working from area to area. The first coat will rapidly soak into the wood. [...] &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The end of each phase is marked by the disappearance of the oil. The first coat will not provide a mere hint of polish, but if the operation is repeated some results can be expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Depending on the condition of the wood the results will definitely appear after the fourth coat, and it will be marked by sweat points as saturation point is reached. These sweat marks should be removed with a rag soaked in methylated spirit, the use of which will not impair the final finish because it rapidly evaporates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Chap 9, The complete manual of wood finishing, 1st edition, Frederick Oughton, &lt;a href=&quot;https://isbndb.com/search/books/ISBN%200-8128-2890-9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ISBN 0-8128-2890-9&lt;/a&gt;, 1983&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can find a similar process described in &lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.ca/books?id=KdF8CgAAQBAJ&amp;amp;lpg=PT123&amp;amp;ots=KcoJ15M4GF&amp;amp;dq=oil%20polishing%20brick%20felt&amp;amp;pg=PT123#v=onepage&amp;amp;q&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Staining and Polishing - Including Varnishing &amp;amp; Other Methods of Finishing Wood, with Appendix of Recipes by JCS Brough&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Oil-polishing is most useful for table tops, bar tables, counters and spirit cabinets. A dining-room table with an oil-polished top, and the sides and legs French polished, will make a most satisfactory job. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For a table-top or other surface which is large and level, rub some of the oil well into it, and then polish with a rubber made by rubbing a quantity of felt or flannel round a brick or other suitable block. [...] In applying the oil, do not saturate or flood it, but scrub it in, and afterwards rub long and hard. Of course the wood will absorb the oil, even after several applications. It will need much patience to bring it up to a good glow; in fact it might be said that the work is never finished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2019-02-23T01:19:43.940" LastActivityDate="2019-02-23T01:19:43.940" Title="Are Oil finishing and Oil polishing complementary?" Tags="|finishing|oiling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6856" CreationDate="2018-01-20T08:02:32.870" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Superficially these refer to the same thing, and there are many overlaps, but in practice these days they can tend to describe fundamentally different finishes, giving very different end results as a consequence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I can't find much information on oil polishing in newer/popular texts -- it seems to be more of a historical method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Polishing&quot; is one of the old terms for finishing, so it refers to the job generally. The word makes quite a bit of sense in the historical context as they did in fact polish the wood, i.e. add gloss, to one degree or another — I think it's accurate that no show surfaces were finished and left truly matt, although there were matter surfaces on some things (ebony was often thought to look too brash with a glossy surface to it and ebonised wood was often dulled slightly using fine abrasives). It wasn't until the modern era that full-matt surfaces became a desirable outcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course here it also refers to the process, since there is a lot of 'polishing' of the surface due to all the rubbing. And the rubbing is key to the difference between the historical practice (see quotes at bottom) and what's too-often done these days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A. Oil finishing&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  This is coat-wait-wipe dry-and-repeat approach:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a terrible way to apply an oil finish (to be clear, I mean an oil-only finish since these days there are many so-called oil finishes which are blends somewhat like &quot;Danish oil&quot;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason is that it's doesn't do anything &lt;em&gt;but&lt;/em&gt; saturate the surface fibres with oil, which isn't what oil finishing should be about. Couple this with the duller wood surfaces often produced today when final smoothing is done via sanding and it's easy to see why so many modern oiled pieces appear dull and lifeless compared to historical work (and modern pieces done by pros, and dedicated amateurs, working more in a traditional manner).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some relevant quotes from previous Answers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Using linseed oil you should start to get a decent sheen at about the third or fourth coat (if you don't you're not doing it right)...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;...after the initial buildup within the wood oil finishing is nearly entirely about burnishing of the surface, not &quot;building up the finish&quot; in the sense that most people would understand it (particularly if they're more familiar with varnish or an oil/vanish product like &quot;Danish oil&quot;).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The full traditional oiling regimen could take &lt;strong&gt;an entire year&lt;/strong&gt; from the point the woodworking was finished: one coat per day for a week, a coat per week for a month and then one coat per month for the rest of the year.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Yes, that is 21 applications of oil.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;All guides to oiling will say that you have to wipe off the excess oil from the surface but these days, with the emphasis on how easy an oil finish is to do, very often they say you're done at that point. And that's responsible for the lacklustre surface on much modern oiled furniture. Traditionally, after the excess oil was wiped away you then rubbed down the piece, &lt;strong&gt;hard&lt;/strong&gt;, and for a long time. There was no danger of leaving excess oil on the wood in the old days after buffing the surface for half an hour!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2018-01-23T06:10:19.533" LastActivityDate="2018-01-23T06:10:19.533" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6859" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-20T18:47:23.497" Score="1" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you paint over titebond 2? I'm working on a project that I can't clamp the boards together. There about 1/4 inches apart. I used a ton of glue, and made a big mess! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4717" LastActivityDate="2018-01-23T04:06:44.240" Title="Antique table that has gaps in the wood" Tags="|glue|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6860" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-21T08:36:55.573" Score="4" ViewCount="621" Body="&lt;p&gt;I looked around and didn't see an answer to this question. I have a wood door on my house that was looking a little dull. It had been finished at the factory with a black stain-lacquer combination. I thought I'd be smart and &quot;clean&quot; it up a bit after 10 years of sun damage, so I bought the right can of stain-lacquer and tried applying it with a brush. The results look pretty poor and I'm afraid to touch it again. I talked to a paint professional about fixing my mess, but he wasn't interested. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do about this? I thought about trying to gently apply some lacquer thinner with a cotton cloth and just slowly rubbing it down until I'm back to the original state of the door, but I'm not sure of that will work. My understanding is that lacquer (and lacquer thinner). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing I thought of was mixing the stain with lacquer thinner and (again) trying to apply a coat or two. But given the prior results, I'm very concerned about this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4719" LastEditorUserId="4720" LastEditDate="2018-01-22T13:26:21.177" LastActivityDate="2018-06-18T04:15:25.620" Title="Lacquer brush marks, and dullness, on wood surface - what to do?" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2680" CreationDate="2018-01-21T14:29:33.553" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The solution is simple: a sundial.  Affix a light source, piece of tape on the table saw and measure the shadow.  Leverage the precision of light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4722" LastActivityDate="2018-01-21T14:29:33.553" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6862" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6864" CreationDate="2018-01-21T14:30:54.243" Score="4" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;We had in Germany a red color on our floorboard called oxblood (Ochsenblut).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how it looked:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EtIbJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EtIbJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We asked someone to grind our floorboard. Although we like the outcome, the border looks somehow blurry. Can someone guess why this happend? The ground has been oiled. I would like to know how this could happend and what is needed to fix it. Here are some example pictures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gYsBF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gYsBF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3gEs3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3gEs3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Tp99.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Tp99.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MMdpa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MMdpa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I0Lrp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I0Lrp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xw8CZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xw8CZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zkona.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zkona.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4721" LastEditorUserId="4721" LastEditDate="2018-01-22T11:29:27.443" LastActivityDate="2018-01-22T11:29:27.443" Title="Border looks strange after grinding floorboard" Tags="|finishing|wood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6862" CreationDate="2018-01-21T18:25:15.297" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In all probability the floor was ground with a floor sander which cannot reach all the way to the wall.  The last few inches would be ground using a hand tool which will not give the same uniform result as the larger sanding surface of the floor sander.  It may be possible to clean up the edges by sanding further with an electric hand sander. Bear in mind that if you intend to finish the wood with stain the wood  may not absorb the stain consistently between the center and edges due to any remaining original finish that would block absorption of the new stain.  Since the wood appears to be a softwood, the stain may be absorbed differently at any location between grain lines due to the different densities of the wood. I recommend doing a test in a test area you can either hide or easily re-sand if you don't like the results. A pre-stain conditioner may also help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2018-01-21T18:25:15.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6862" CreationDate="2018-01-22T10:59:56.713" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When floors are sanded it's commonly done using two types of sander, a belt sander for most of it and an orbital sander along the edges. I think what's happened here is simply that the edges haven't been sanded enough, so some Ochsenblut remains. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The belt sander that is used for the majority of the floor is much more aggressive and capable of removing wood faster and more easily. The sander used at the edges is not as aggressive so more effort and care are needed to get the edges to match the main area done using the belt sander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zqXSd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zqXSd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Swirl marks from edge sander&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, more sanding (concentrated along the edges) should resolve this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See previous Answer for more info, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4941/how-to-fix-a-wooden-floor/4942#4942&quot;&gt;How to fix a wooden floor&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-01-22T10:59:56.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6854" CreationDate="2018-01-22T14:50:56.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lee Valley and Rockler both sell cam levers that can apply a surprising amount of force over a short range, and these could easily be used to bear down on a clamping bar to create much the same kind of clamp that you see in dovetail jigs. The one Lee Valley sells looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B2mRv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B2mRv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lee Valley cam clamp&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leigh sells two varieties of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.leighjigs.com/hold-down_clamp.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;clamping mechanism&lt;/a&gt; that it uses in its own dovetail jigs and mortise and tenon jig. These are incredibly strong and durable. It looks like you could easily remove the dog-leg part and arrange for the cam levers to bear down on a clamping bar, just as in the Leigh dovetail jig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main difference between any of these solutions and the mechanism that Porter Cable uses in its jig is that Porter Cable's version actuates the whole mechanism with a single lever, whereas these solutions would require setting a lever at each end of the clamping bar. The single lever mechanism obviously requires one motion instead of two, but it seems less likely to work as well if the workpiece is tapered from one edge to the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2018-01-22T14:50:56.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2680" CreationDate="2018-01-22T18:43:50.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for real repeatable precision, a device like the OneWay Multi Gauge is a good solution, and very handy for other setups around the shop as well, such as planer blade height:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://oneway.ca/products-category/miscellaneous/Multi-Gauge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://oneway.ca/products-category/miscellaneous/Multi-Gauge&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cH1F7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cH1F7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;OneWay Multi-Gauge&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a measuring device like this one, you can rapidly achieve repeatable accuracy withing .001&quot;, which is more than adequate for woodworking joinery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice the wide flat tip on the dial indicator. This is absolutely required for sweeping the peak tooth height (only sweep blade teeth backwards to avoid scratching the indicator tip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also notice that the body extends far enough back to not rely on the red insert being exactly co-planar with the table top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried lots of methods for this sort of thing. Using this device is the only one that doesn't drive me crazy :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2018-01-22T18:43:50.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6859" CreationDate="2018-01-23T04:06:44.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can paint over dried glue successfully, but you may see textures telegraph through. You cannot stain since the stain will not penetrate through the glue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2018-01-23T04:06:44.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2680" CreationDate="2018-01-23T13:42:41.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I tried using calipers to measure the blade height but it is difficult to make sure the blade is rotated so a tooth is at peak height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple ways to improve the accuracy of this measurement:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mark the blade.&lt;/strong&gt; Remove the blade from your saw. Find two teeth that are directly opposite each other, and then use a good straightedge and a fine-tipped permanent marker to draw a line right on the blade from the tip of one tooth to the tip of the opposite tooth. Repeat on the other side of the blade if you think you might work on that side sometimes. Re-install the blade. If you rotate the blade (with power off, of course) until the line on the blade is vertical, you know that that tooth is at it's highest point.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Setup blocks.&lt;/strong&gt; Stack up some combination of machinist's setup blocks to match the desired height. Place these next to the blade, raise the blade until it's a bit lower than the top of the blocks, and then start rotating the blade back and forth looking for the top of the arc. Gradually raise the blade until the top of the arc is just tangent with the top of the blocks. For extra accuracy, you can place a piece of very flat scrap (plywood and MDF are often very flat) on top of the blocks so that the scrap hangs over the blade. Raise the blade gradually until the top tooth &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; kisses the scrap as you rotate the blade back and forth.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the best accuracy you should of course measure from the table rather than the insert, since most of the work will ride on the table. But the insert should be dead even with the table anyway, and if a couple thousandths of an inch make a big difference, you're working with the wrong material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2018-01-23T13:42:41.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6848" CreationDate="2018-01-23T15:04:55.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am unable to figure out where to mark the floor on a tape measure. If I have 26.6 in how does this translate into 3 even sections?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like your question is how to translate 26.6&quot; into an accurate measure in fractions of an inch. The decimal equivalent of 5/8 is 0.625, so 26 5/8&quot; is the closest fraction that'll be marked on your tape. If you mark out the two outer sections at 26 5/8, the middle section will be 26.55&quot;, or about 26 9/16&quot;, which is close enough for a bookcase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, here's an easy way to divide a space of size m into n equal parts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mark the sides and front of the space to be divided on the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Find xn, the nearest multiple of n that's larger than m on your tape measure. In your case, you're dividing 80 inches into 3 sections, so m=80 and n=3. The nearest multiple of 3 larger than 80 is 81, so xn=81.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Extend your tape measure and put the xn mark at a front corner of the space to be divided and the end of the tape (the zero point) lies somewhere on the line marking the opposite side of the space. Since 81 &gt; 80, the tape is going to make a slight angle with the front of the space.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Put marks along the tape at the multiples of x, where x is of course nx/n. In your case, 81/3=27, so put marks along the tape at 27&quot; and 54&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Place one side of a square (framing square, speed square, try square, doesn't matter) along the line marking the front edge front edge and the other side on each mark, and transfer the mark to the line.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front line is now divided into n equal parts. If you also wanted to mark the centers of the sections, choose an xn that's also a multiple of 2, and then mark multiples of x/2. For example, let xn=84 (which is greater than 80 and also divisible by both 2 and 3). Then, mark all the multiples of x/2 (i.e. 14&quot;, 28&quot;, 42&quot;, 56&quot;, 70&quot;). The even multiples of x/2 (28&quot; and 56&quot;) are the boundaries, and the odd multiples of x/2 (14&quot;, 42&quot;, and 56&quot;) are the centers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2018-02-23T18:27:08.887" LastActivityDate="2018-02-23T18:27:08.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2442" CreationDate="2018-01-24T03:57:57.570" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brendan Stemp an Australian Woodturner uses Metal work Lathe to produce recorders due to the accuracy needed, from my understanding he uses a fairly dense or hardwood for these.&#xA;His Youtube Channel &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCYJ4e0XACGJQjJvfmVUcE-Q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCYJ4e0XACGJQjJvfmVUcE-Q&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4606" LastActivityDate="2018-01-24T03:57:57.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6872" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-24T14:57:30.367" Score="6" ViewCount="4277" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put a cheap plank of almost white new pine in the garden a couple of months ago - the grain is now far more visible (while not being raised) and the base colour has darkened. I would like to replicate this effect with boring-looking pieces of pine flooring so that newer boards closer match those laid over 100 years ago, but in a much shorter period of time. Thanks in advance for your insight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4731" LastActivityDate="2018-02-11T02:17:08.033" Title="How to accelerate pine ageing" Tags="|technique|wood|pine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6873" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-25T02:02:31.230" Score="3" ViewCount="1811" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a good way to cover both the top and bottom of a piece with a self-leveling epoxy resin?  I have a small box/basket that I'd like to have in my kitchen to hold cooking oils.  Since the bottles will likely leak cooking oil, I'd like to treat the wood with an epoxy resin, so that it will be durable and more easily cleaned.  And, it case it's not clear, by epoxy resin I mean a material similar to what's used to finish bar tops.  Anyway, all of the resources I see on using epoxy resin cover finishing the top and sides of the piece.  Basically, we pour and spread the resin on the top and it runs over the side.  What's not clear to me is what to use on the bottom of the piece.  Can we use the epoxy resin on the bottom as well?  If so, it's not clear to me how to accomplish this.  Every piece I've seen has drips from the epoxy along the bottom.  I suppose we could sand these drips down, but then we'll have the same issue when we flip over the piece and treat the bottom.  Certainly, I could use a different product on the bottom, but I'd rather just use the same durable finish on all sides.  Is there a good way to accomplish this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2018-02-28T22:09:29.430" Title="How to cover the top and bottom of a piece with a self-leveling epoxy resin?" Tags="|finishing|finish-selection|epoxy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6874" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6889" CreationDate="2018-01-25T04:59:56.733" Score="4" ViewCount="10608" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Ryobi table saw (RTS21G), and it is a half decent table saw for the price in my opinion. Unfortunately, it doesn't have a dust control system nor port. The dust just comes out the bottom. Is there a way to control the dust for this table saw? I've seen dust bags like the one from harbor freight, but it's not accessible in their stores and they say it's only for their table saw. The perimeter of the table saw's square base is 14&quot;, and does not fit dust solutions such as Amazon's big gulp dust hood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other dust control options that can fit this type of saw? I would prefer something with a vacuum port, but I'm open to just about anything such as dust bags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3800" LastActivityDate="2020-06-11T20:36:29.930" Title="Dust Control on a Table Saw Not Intended for It?" Tags="|table-saw|sawdust|dust-collection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6875" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6877" CreationDate="2018-01-25T05:08:10.103" Score="2" ViewCount="3674" Body="&lt;p&gt;I occasionally get 4x8 sheets of plywood for projects, and I've heard that I should never use the rip fence for cross cuts because the peice that is being cut can get trapped in between the sawblade and the rip fence and cause kickback. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't see a way to avoid using it though, as my miter gauge doesn't have enough track to travel all the way to the base of the board. Should I use the rip fence to cross cut these types of boards, or is this mroe of a task for something like a circular saw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3800" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T21:11:06.533" Title="Cross Cutting Large Boards (4x8) Stock?" Tags="|table-saw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6876" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6879" CreationDate="2018-01-25T14:19:18.460" Score="2" ViewCount="295" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to be helping a kid at school with a goat playground type deal. I plan on using treated lumber where this playground touches the ground. But since this is done for the school we do have a budget, and doing the whole thing out of treated wood is not preferred, but maybe we can. I think by using regular wood it will quickly go bad, with the time were spending I want this to last. What can I put over the wood to prolong the life of the project? The only thing I thought of was the stuff used for coating a deck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2018-01-25T21:46:07.597" Title="Goat playpen project (lumber treatment)" Tags="|pressure-treated|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6875" CreationDate="2018-01-25T17:53:49.420" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are cutting large 4x8 panels you are not really cross cutting in either direction.  You do not want to use the miter gauge.  The problem is having adequate support to properly feed the panel past the blade using the fence.  To do so you need adequate support for the entire plywood panel on front, back and side of the table saw.  For the side and back this can be accomplished with run-off tables.  They can be either full tables (mobile is useful for other shop tasks) or tilt up platforms attached to the table.  Support in front of the table cannot obstruct your travel as you push the panel forward.  I use support arms that mount to the fence rail as shown in this &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/projects/102126&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;project&lt;/a&gt; image from Lumberjocks.com.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PGaBo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PGaBo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Table saw extension arms&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this setup you are performing a regular rip cut, and not a crosscut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2018-01-25T17:53:49.420" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4631" CreationDate="2018-01-25T19:37:32.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The deglosser keeps you from having to sand. You just apply for time specified, then prime, then paint. The deglosser removes any poly or varnish that was on prev coating - allowing new coats to stick to it. It is a real time saver. You want to pay attention to the “OPEN TIME” specified on your deglosser. This is the amount of time you have to apply yourctopcoats, once deglosser is applied. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4736" LastActivityDate="2018-01-25T19:37:32.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6876" CreationDate="2018-01-25T21:46:07.597" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a naturally weather-resistant wood like cedar. It is relatively cheap and easy to maintain. A lot of playgrounds, fences, decks, and outdoor furniture are made out of cedar for this reason. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cedar weathers to a silver color, becoming more gray with time. Or you could stain and seal it, just like a deck, if you don't want the gray color. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other naturally weather-resistant woods out there (e.g., teak), but cedar is probably the cheapest and most widely-available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastActivityDate="2018-01-25T21:46:07.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6881" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6883" CreationDate="2018-01-26T04:01:26.217" Score="7" ViewCount="11571" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: I'm a complete newbie when it comes to woodworking so I apologize if I don't use good woodworking vocabulary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm hoping to build a small hutch/monitor stand for my desk out of MDF. I'm choosing to go with 3/4&quot; MDF because I'm a poor college student and want to go as cheap as possible. So far I've gathered that MDF and screws don't really get along and that I can use box joints for joining ends. I'm wondering if there is a good way to join two pieces of MDF in a &quot;T&quot; shape, like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s9oSp.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s9oSp.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to avoid using any kind of hardware or joinery that takes up space below or above the &quot;shelf&quot; in the image: I need to slide an object on my desk onto the shelf and it will fit exactly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also don't have any power tools besides a circular saw and a power drill, so I can't cut holes for biscuits. I want each joint to be sturdy, but also aesthetically pleasing (I want my wife's support in future projects so I don't want it to look like some scraps were just slapped together).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw a joinery method called a &quot;dado&quot;, and was thinking that this might work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OR5QF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OR5QF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If this is a viable option&lt;/strong&gt;, how deep should I cut the groove? The MDF is only 3/4&quot; thick. How would I cut a blind dado (as shown in the image above) with hand tools?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If this is not a good option&lt;/strong&gt;, why not? Are there any other methods I can use for a discrete but strong joint that can be implemented with hand tools?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4738" LastActivityDate="2023-04-30T12:30:14.527" Title="&quot;T&quot; joint with MDF—No power tools" Tags="|joinery|mdf|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6881" CreationDate="2018-01-26T06:14:20.837" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given your situation I recommend you consider dowels and glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cutting an accurate dado with a circular saw is very tricky and mistakes there are hard to undo or hide. Generally that sort of thing is done with some sort of guided tool like a table saw or router against a guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MDF accepts glue very well and makes strong joint. The dowels (maybe three on each end/joint) will provide some mechanical strength and reduce the likelihood of the glue breaking from impact shock. You could run a couple screws in from each end to keep the joint tight while the glue sets. They would provide some additional mechanical strength as well. This also avoids the need for bar clamps which is how a better equipped shop might do the glue-up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you did go with a dado I'd go with 1/4&quot; deep if you can keep the edge sharp, 3/8 (half-way through) if you weren't so sure. Once glued, the side boards will be just as strong as long as the fit is pretty tight. I might also use the screws trick for this approach just to keep things tight while the glue sets and provide some insurance thereafter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T06:14:20.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6881" CreationDate="2018-01-26T15:22:16.083" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So far I've gathered that MDF and screws don't really get along and that I can use box joints for joining ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two main problems with using screws with MDF: splitting and strength. If you drive a screw into the edge of a piece of MDF without drilling a pilot hole, it's likely that the screw will force the MDF to split. And even with a pilot hole, screwed connections in MDF are often weaker than in wood because the short, randomly-oriented fibers in MDF don't have a lot of strength. But there are a number of ways to overcome or at least compensate for those problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;pilot holes:&lt;/strong&gt; If you're going to drive a screw into the edge of a piece of MDF, you really want to drill a pilot hole. A pilot hole makes space for the shaft of the screw, so that it doesn't force the MDF apart.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;use the right screws:&lt;/strong&gt; Screws designed for use with MDF have wide threads so that they'll bite into more material, which helps compensate for the lower holding strength of MDF. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.spax.us/en/mdf-hardwood-screws.html#.Wms9wmaZNE4&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Spax makes some&lt;/a&gt; are supposed to be self-drilling and self-tapping, so you may not need a pilot hole. I've seen those in home centers for about $7/box, where a box has 200 screws, so they're not too expensive. If you've ever assembled any flat-pack furniture from places like IKEA, you've probably seen &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0031TGSB2&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Confirmat screws&lt;/a&gt;. These run about $10 per hundred, but you'll also want to pick up a drill bit that creates the stepped pilot hole needed for these screws.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;use more screws:&lt;/strong&gt; Screws have less strength in MDF, but you can compensate for that somewhat by using more of them and being careful not to over tighten them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;add glue:&lt;/strong&gt; Like screws, glue isn't as strong when used with MDF as it is with wood because the material itself doesn't have much strength. But adding glue to a screwed joint can give it more strength than either screws or glue alone.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;use a wooden insert:&lt;/strong&gt; If you don't have screws designed for MDF on hand, you can still make a strong joint by adding a wood insert to the MDF so that the screw has some wood to bite into. For your the T-joint that you're trying to make, you'd drill a fairly large hole though the thickness of the horizontal piece — maybe 3/4&quot; or 1&quot;, positioned an inch or two from the joint. Then you'd fill the hole with a piece of wooden dowel sized to fit. That gives the screw some wood to bite into, and you can screw through the vertical piece into the horizontal piece and the dowel and get a fairly strong connection.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;use a metal insert:&lt;/strong&gt; Same idea as above, but use a commercially-available metal &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B008Y0XU9Q&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;cross nut&lt;/a&gt; instead of wood. You'd use a bolt instead of a screw, and your holes need to be drilled pretty accurately, so a jig is a big help.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I also don't have any power tools besides a circular saw and a power drill&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's going to make it hard to cut any type of dado. It's not impossible to do it with a circular saw, but the right tool for the job is either a router or a table saw with a dado cutter. I'd go with a plain old butt joint held with glue and screws meant for MDF, if you want to make a permanent connection, or bolts and barrel nuts if you want something you can take apart and reassemble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Above all, don't be afraid of making mistakes. You're not building an heirloom here, and MDF is cheap. If you build something and it fails in some way (breaks, doesn't look good, etc.) then you'll learn from it and build a better one the next time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T15:22:16.083" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6884" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6887" CreationDate="2018-01-26T20:19:41.630" Score="4" ViewCount="191" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to take a few woodworking classes in which we used the cabinet table saw, a chop saw on a rail, and a router. I also got to use a jigsaw. However, I have seen a strange hand-held power tool that seems to act like the chop saw on rails and a jigsaw. It has a metal platform on the bottom, and the blade is on the left hand side of the handle. So the blade cuts down and back through the opening in the metallic platform. I believe you turn it on and then push the guard back with a lever or something, so as not to risk getting your finger cut off while the tool is on. They roughly make the same noise that a chop saw or miter saw, as they are sometimes called, make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4739" LastEditorUserId="2524" LastEditDate="2018-01-26T20:30:07.627" LastActivityDate="2018-01-27T05:40:03.847" Title="Is there a name for this particular cutting tool used by people needing to cut into walls to fix things inside?" Tags="|power-tools|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6884" CreationDate="2018-01-26T20:29:40.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you referring to a circular saw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VTCCv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VTCCv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lowe&amp;#39;s circular saw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or perhaps a more compact version?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F1Tli.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F1Tli.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T20:29:40.347" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6875" CreationDate="2018-01-26T21:11:06.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A circular saw or track saw is another popular way to break down sheet goods into more manageable pieces. Final dimensioning is usually done on the table saw or miter saw. To ensure a straight cut, you can use a homemade track with a regular circular saw, see e.g., &lt;a href=&quot;https://jayscustomcreations.com/2015/05/perfect-cuts-with-a-circular-saw-track/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jay Bates&lt;/a&gt;, that you can make with a ~quarter-sheet of plywood or MDF. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other options include clamping a long straight-edge to the plywood and running the saw along that, or attaching a third-party fence like the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kregtool.com/store/c48/saw-attachments/p424/rip-cuttrade/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kreg Rip-Cut&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2tocD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2tocD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Kreg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do go this route, you'll need something underneath the plywood that can be cut into. A 4'x8' piece of foam insulation on the floor is popular for this as it provides support underneath the whole piece. Or you could use a few pieces of 1x2 or 1x3 - just make sure to use enough to provide support for both pieces after the cut. Or, as shown in the Kreg picture above, saw horses or an assembly table work as well for the smaller pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T21:11:06.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6884" CreationDate="2018-01-27T05:40:03.847" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a name for this particular cutting tool used by people needing to cut into walls to fix things inside?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From this part of the question, it sounds like you're talking about a reciprocating saw. This type of saw has a long body with a straight blade protruding from the front. The blade travels forward and backward, much like a handheld saw does. These saws easily cut through anything you're likely to find in a wall: drywall, wood, nails, screws, pipes, metal studs, etc. Milwaukee's versions of the tool are named &lt;em&gt;Sawzall&lt;/em&gt;, but sometimes you'll hear that name used to refer to reciprocating saws from other brands too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It has a metal platform on the bottom, and the blade is on the left hand side of the handle. So the blade cuts down and back through the opening in the metallic platform. I believe you turn it on and then push the guard back with a lever or something, so as not to risk getting your finger cut off while the tool is on. They roughly make the same noise that a chop saw or miter saw, as they are sometimes called, make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This part of your question is almost certainly referring to a circular saw. Sometimes these are called &lt;em&gt;Skil saws&lt;/em&gt;, again after a popular brand. Circular saws most often have the blade to the right of the handle, but there are also versions available with the blade left of the handle. The bottom of the saw is a metal plate called the &quot;base plate&quot; or sometimes the &quot;shoe&quot;, and a motor is mounted to this plate. The circular blade fastens directly to the output shaft of the motor and protrudes down through the base plate. The motor can tilt to the side on the base plate to make angled cuts, and it can pivot forward to reduce the depth of cut. Front and rear handles are attached to the motor housing, with a trigger switch built into the rear handle. A spring loaded blade guard covers most of the blade when not cutting, and sometimes has to be pulled back by the operator to start a cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A variation on the circular saw is the worm drive circular saw. It's the same idea, of course, but the motor sits somewhat behind the base plate, with the rear handle attached to the back of the motor. The name comes from the fact that the motor turns a spiral &quot;worm&quot; gear that drives the shaft that spins the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Circular saws of either variety are used heavily in construction to cut lumber, and they can be used to cut holes in the exterior of a building to add a window or something. But if you were going to cut into a wall to fix something, or even to remove the wall entirely, you'd probably go with a reciprocating saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2018-01-27T05:40:03.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6874" CreationDate="2018-01-27T06:00:55.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The perimeter of the table saw's square base is 14&quot;, and does not fit dust solutions such as Amazon's big gulp dust hood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used dust collection adapters like &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00LPP9N0W&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; with a contractor saw that's open on the bottom, and it works fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e0HRr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e0HRr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Powertec dust hood&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this one is a little too big to mount on your saw (it's described as being 14&quot; square) it should be easy to trim to fit -- it's just plastic and will cut easily with any kind of saw. You could also fabricate your own from hardboard or plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B06X1DM38X&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's a similar hood, but smaller at 12&quot;.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2018-01-27T06:06:13.353" LastActivityDate="2018-01-27T06:06:13.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6874" CreationDate="2018-01-28T02:11:55.350" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many ways to adapt contractor-style table saws to dust collection systems. They all tend to follow a common blueprint, but naturally they range from simple to complex, depending on how much effort you want to put in and how much dust you are willing to let leak out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D3RVN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D3RVN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;An illustration of the basic technique from WOOD Magazine&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Image credit: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/dust-collection/more-dust-collection-tips?catref=wd131&amp;amp;page=9&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;WOOD Magazine&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution above, Tip #9 from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/dust-collection/more-dust-collection-tips?catref=wd131&amp;amp;page=9&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this collection of tips at WOOD Magazine&lt;/a&gt;, is among the simpler systems, which makes it a good illustration of the basic technique. You place plywood between the base and the saw so dust doesn't fall out the bottom, attach a port for a dust collector or shop vac, and cover the back so the sawdust is captured. This particular version has some downsides: first, the blade can't be tilted while the back panel is on. Second, the airflow path isn't shaped -- it mostly enters from the opening in the back for the motor and exits straight down the pipe, which means dust will still tend to collect in the corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stepping up a bit in complexity, you can somewhat solve the problem with the back panel by having different back panels for common angles. You could have one for 90° and one for 45°, each shaped to cover the gap with the saw tilted at that angle. The back panel can be attached various ways. Here are examples using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.danpattison.com/blog/2016/10/7/4-table-saw-dust-collection-upgrades&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;magnets&lt;/a&gt; or with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/dust-collection/tablesaw-dust-collection-shroud&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Velcro&lt;/a&gt;. Pictured below is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/capture-tablesaw-dust&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;an example of that technique&lt;/a&gt;, with the blade titled at 45° and the corresponding panel installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OgiHu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OgiHu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;An illustration of the 45° back panel from Popular Woodworking&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image credit: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/capture-tablesaw-dust&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;American Woodwoker Editors&lt;/a&gt; / &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/capture-tablesaw-dust&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Popular Woodworking&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that picture you can also see an example of a more complicated technique to prevent dust from building up. Instead of using a simple plywood base across the bottom, they use the space under the stand to build a sloping profile so dust will tend to fall towards the relocated collection port. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And there are even fancier options. I particularly like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/2009/05/01/dust-proof-any-tablesaw&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this system from Richard Babbitt&lt;/a&gt; published in Fine Woodworking, first because it takes airflow path into consideration, and second because it completely encloses the motor, allowing full use of the table saw's tilt function without compromising the dust collection system. The box enclosing the motor doubles as a short outfeed table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0dOiv.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0dOiv.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Image credit: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/2009/05/01/dust-proof-any-tablesaw&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fine Woodworking&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To quote the Richard Babbitt, &quot;No matter which type of saw you have, the principle is the same: Close off most of the saw, allow rapid airflow in a few key areas, and you'll send the dust toward the hose and not into the shop.&quot; The pictured system has an additional benefit of drawing the air in across the motor, keeping the motor cooler in the process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can imagine, the construction details of how this is accomplished are necessarily specific to each table saw. If you're inclined to go this route, I highly recommend Babbitt's article &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/2009/05/01/dust-proof-any-tablesaw&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dust-Proof Any Tablesaw&lt;/a&gt; in issue #205-May/June 2009 of Fine Woodworking. The full article is available as a PDF to digital subscribers of Fine Woodworking. It discusses design considerations, and how to adapt the concept to saws other than the ones pictured. It also has a section on improving dust collection for cabinet saws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2018-01-28T02:11:55.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6872" CreationDate="2018-01-28T19:12:51.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...the grain is now far more visible (while not being raised) and the base colour has darkened. I would like to replicate this effect...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many tricks and techniques for creating an aged look, from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/aging-wood-with-baking-soda/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;chemical stains&lt;/a&gt; to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/2011/02/10/not-just-white-oak-can-be-fumed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ammonia fuming&lt;/a&gt; to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/2011/02/22/tanning-beds-accelerate-aging-for-cherry-not-just-humans&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;UV tanning beds&lt;/a&gt;. The trick is to find one that produces the look you want on the wood you've got.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of the techniques you'll find for darkening wood rely on chemical reactions that involve tannins. I'm sure you've heard of tannins -- they're the chemical compounds that give barrel-aged &lt;a href=&quot;https://thewhiskeywash.com/whiskey-styles/bourbon/what-are-tannins-and-why-should-you-care/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;whiskey it's color&lt;/a&gt; it's color, that make &lt;a href=&quot;http://winefolly.com/review/what-are-tannins-in-wine/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;red wine astringent&lt;/a&gt;, and that &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tanning_(leather)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;turn animal skins into leather&lt;/a&gt;. They're also the reason that some woods get black stains when iron pipe clamps meet glue squeeze-out. Wood species vary in their tannin levels, with oak and walnut containing lots of tannin and pine having less. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to darken your pine flooring, the pickling process that involves combining tannins and iron might be a good bet. Because pine has relatively low tannin levels, people generally add tannin to the wood by first brushing on some strong tea, which is high in tannins. After that, a solution containing iron (made by soaking steel wool in vinegar) is brushed on. Lee Valley has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/us/newsletters/Woodworking/7/4/article2.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;helpful article about pickling wood&lt;/a&gt; this way, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://countrydesignstyle.com/this-old-wood/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this blog article has a specific recipe&lt;/a&gt; and a photo showing results. The reason I suggest this method is that you can easily adjust it to get the results you want. You can change the amount of tannin that you add to the wood by using stronger tea or applying the tea more than once, or you can replace the tea with a solution of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.shellac.net/product650.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;straight tannic acid&lt;/a&gt; (which might give more repeatable results). Likewise, you can change the concentration of iron in the vinegar solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2018-01-28T19:12:51.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6818" CreationDate="2018-01-28T19:45:40.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Aside from lucking into finding these at another estate sale or ebay, does anyone know where I might find just half of the pipe clamp hardware kit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clamp parts in your photos look like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.besseytools.com/en/product_details.php?ASIMOID=000000030002b88f00040023&amp;amp;ASIMOID_SC=0000000100031d9e00050023&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the ones made by Bessey&lt;/a&gt;. If those match the ones you bought, I'd &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.besseytools.com/en/contactus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;contact them&lt;/a&gt; to see if they'll sell you four of the tail pieces as spare parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2018-01-28T19:45:40.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6892" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6893" CreationDate="2018-01-29T01:35:29.490" Score="6" ViewCount="480" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have a brand new piece of pine wood and would like to distress in this fashion, as best as possible:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pPHUy.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pPHUy.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Already made indentations, cracks, cuts and holes and it came out similar to the markings in the image (mainly with the back of a hammer). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, not sure what to do to get that dusty warn-out white effect - inside the cracks, holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it is simple as painting the whole thing Chalk White, sanding down all the flat parts, so it is only left in the wholes... and then stain dark Espresso? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is there a known method, to create this effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2018-01-29T06:54:43.697" Title="What technique is used to give new wood the distressed white color only in cracks and holes?" Tags="|technique|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6892" CreationDate="2018-01-29T06:54:43.697" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it is simple as painting the whole thing Chalk White, sanding down all the flat parts, so it is only left in the wholes... and then stain dark Espresso? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No that won't work as the dark stain will colour the white paint to some degree (with chalk paint probably quite a lot). What you want to do is get the wood dark/black, then add the white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Liming wax&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The classic way to achieve what you want is by dyeing the wood and then applying a liming wax (possibly with an intermediate coat of shellac as a sealer). Liming wax is an opaque white wax which you apply liberally so that it fills any depressions, then wipe off in such a way so as to remove it from the flats and high areas and leave it in the low spots. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples of the effect this achieves:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O2pwD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O2pwD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dark-stained wood + liming wax&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Paint&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can do something similar using white paint, basically using the same technique. It's more difficult to control if you use a waterbased paint because of the fast drying time. Advisable to work small areas at a time, at least initially, unless you're coordinated enough to have a brush in one hand and wiping rags or paper towels in the other and use them sequentially as you work over the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using an oil-based paint the technique is much more forgiving as you have much longer to apply the paint to a larger surface and then wipe it off. And even if the paint does start to dry before you're done you can very lightly dampen the wiping material with mineral spirits (UK: white spirit) which will dissolve the partially dried paint and allow you to continue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It probably goes without saying that this works out significantly cheaper using paint than using a proprietary wax mixture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But one thing that's not as obvious is that on anything that needs to take handling or will be rubbed against the liming wax slowly wears away and has to be reapplied periodically to regain the original look, it's not too bad as it's usually after some years but paint is much more durable than wax so using paint the effect could be essentially permanent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-01-29T06:54:43.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6894" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-29T17:42:22.430" Score="1" ViewCount="693" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just had a new staircase of red oak installed and I'm trying to determine the best way to finish it. I want a low/zero VOC product with no color to it, just to harden and let the natural red oak shine through, while having a little gloss and protecting the wood from the heavy use of people walking on it every day, and occasionally spilling stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone recommended &lt;a href=&quot;http://rubiomonocoatusa.com/en/p/products/interior/3-protection/colours-and-protects-in-1-single-layer/15-rmc-oil-2c&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rubio Monocoat&lt;/a&gt;, and there's also polymerized linseed oil (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B003DL6VQA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Danish oil&lt;/a&gt;), and there's tung oil, and basically a bewildering variety of options. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone make a recommendation or comment, and ideally give me the general knowledge to make my own evaluation of the huge landscape of products here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4640" LastActivityDate="2018-01-29T18:53:50.223" Title="Best way to finish red oak stairs?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6894" CreationDate="2018-01-29T18:53:50.223" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Flooring water based polyurethanes come to mind - they are typically clear (although there are tinted versions as well), low VOC and hard wearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choosing matte or satin would provide both the natural look and low sheen you are after, and be less slippery (which is especially important for stairs, versus plain hardwood flooring).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Application and cleanup of water base poly is simpler than other finishes when applied to such small portions as individual stair treads (water poly on floors in more challenging than oil poly due to the fast dry time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2018-01-29T18:53:50.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6873" CreationDate="2018-01-29T22:00:48.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only way I can see to do it is to thicken the epoxy with something like   colloidal thickening silica, but every thikener shoul work reasonabily well, until it is thick as a filler and then apply it with a spatula in a thin layer, wait until the epoxy is almost cured and then apply another layer (for the workability time refer to the resin manufacturer instructions). This way you can also add some dye to have a particular color, if you like&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure that the epoxy is resistant to the UV rays, else it will become yellow-ish after some time, and it is not really nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3386" LastActivityDate="2018-01-29T22:00:48.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6897" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6899" CreationDate="2018-01-30T01:00:20.540" Score="2" ViewCount="2018" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently installing PVC pipe to act as duct for my dust collector. There will be a central pipe down the length of my shop, with a few branches coming off for specific tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, I've hung some pipe and connected it together with PVC fittings. I had planned to get it all loosely fitted together, and then go back through and glue it together with PVC glue and primer. But as I've pushed a few fittings together, I started to question whether I need the glue. It occurs to me there are some advantages to leaving it only loosely connected. If I should ever have clog, it'll be a lot easier to unclog if I don't have to cut the pipe apart. Ditto if I ever want to add branches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I really need to glue the PVC together? Can I get away with taping the joints, either with the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.menards.com/main/paint/adhesives-tape/tape/foil-tape/duck-tape-1-88-x-50-yd-all-purpose-aluminum-metal-repair-tape/p-1444442300128-c-7181.htm?tid=460410242119301433&amp;amp;ipos=3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;aluminum foil tape&lt;/a&gt; used on HVAC systems, or the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/x-treme-tape-for-dust-joints&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;X-Treme Tape for Dust Joints&lt;/a&gt; sold by Rockler?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using the thinner DWV pipe / ASTM D2729, if that matters. It's mostly 4&quot; PVC, with one 3&quot; run for some smaller tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2018-01-31T16:54:40.253" Title="PVC duct for dust collection: Glue the pipe and fittings together, or will tape suffice?" Tags="|dust-collection|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6897" CreationDate="2018-01-30T01:55:19.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;it would seem that the best thing to do is to test your dust collection system without any glue for a few weeks and see how it does. I would venture to guess that the tape would probably be sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4397" LastActivityDate="2018-01-30T01:55:19.760" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6897" CreationDate="2018-01-30T03:48:03.410" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a similar 4&quot; PVC duct system with approx 50' of pipe, a large debris cyclone can, and three gated openings running for years without any glue.  The system is run by a 1.5 HP industrial two bag dust collector and it runs fine.  In fact when I tried to take a portion apart last year I had trouble getting the dry fitted elbows apart from the pipe.  I always intended to glue it together, but the next project kept me from getting around to it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2018-01-30T03:48:03.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6900" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6901" CreationDate="2018-01-31T00:58:54.403" Score="3" ViewCount="15712" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a project involving a bed and cabinets. I'm using cedar 2x4s for the structure and plywood for the visible parts. I'm not sure what kind of plywood it is; I chose it because it had the fewest knots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the color is just fine as it is, so I was planning just to polyurethane it without staining.  Do I still need to use a pre-stain conditioner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, will the poly eliminate the insect-repelling effects of cedar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is effectively my first woodworking project. I have no idea what I'm doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4751" LastActivityDate="2018-01-31T06:07:32.917" Title="Do I need a pre-stain conditioner if I'm not staining?" Tags="|staining|plywood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6900" CreationDate="2018-01-31T05:36:27.083" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I was planning just to polyurethane it without staining. Do I still need to use a pre-stain conditioner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. The point of a pre-stain conditioner is to prevent stained wood from looking mottled or blotchy because some areas are more porous and absorb more stain than other areas. The conditioner reduces that effect by sealing the wood to some degree so that it absorbs stain more evenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you're not going to stain your project, there's no need to apply a pre-stain conditioner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps you're worried about your polyurethane finish being absorbed into the wood unevenly? That might happen, but since the finish is clear I don't think you'll see an effect on the color. Don't take my word for it, though... apply some polyurethane to some scrap pieces of the wood you're using and see how it looks. In fact, unless you've used the same finish on the same wood in the past, it's &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; a good idea to try out the finish on some scraps before you do your whole project so that you know exactly how the finish will look. It's easier to switch to a different product before you've started finishing your project than in the middle of the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also, will the poly eliminate the insect-repelling effects of cedar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd expect it to significantly reduce any cedar scent coming from the wood. Polyurethane forms a film on the surface of the wood, and that film will most likely trap the oils that give cedar it's smell inside. If you want to finish the wood but still want some of that scent, then look for ways to incorporate some unfinished wood into the project. It's not a good idea to finish one side of a piece of wood without also doing the other, since the unfinished side will be more exposed to seasonal changes in humidity, and that can make the wood warp. But you could still line the inside of your cabinets with some unfinished cedar, for example, and you could use unfinished boards for the slats that the box spring and mattress will sit on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2018-01-31T06:07:32.917" LastActivityDate="2018-01-31T06:07:32.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6897" CreationDate="2018-01-31T16:54:40.253" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tape'll do it. We've got a professionally-installed steel ducting system in our large joinery workshop, and we've since added some parts, offshoots etc. just with duct tape and it works just fine. Small losses in any extraction system are expected so you're likely not going to get much benefit or noticeable difference from gluing vs. taping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2018-01-31T16:54:40.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6903" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6907" CreationDate="2018-01-31T17:03:02.747" Score="2" ViewCount="1065" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have this old Kennametal Sharpening Stone shown here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7yLis.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7yLis.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to sharpen this dull edge shown here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0650v.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0650v.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GZ5Sg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GZ5Sg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was caused from learning mistakes which I am still doing, but would like a sharp knife, so I don't get discouraged by slow progress. So, before I start praticing my sharpening, I wanted to make sure what I have read up and learned is correct. I was going to use the stone with water on it and try to keep the knife at a 20 degree angle to remove the chips and regain the edge. Is this the correct high level process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I have recently learned about stropping, but I am unfamiliar with it. Is the concept of keeping a 20 degree angle the same? Also, if I have strips of leather (from deer) can I make a strop out of that? I can post a picture of the leather when I get home if need be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I have been using the quick sharpening tool with one coarse side and one fine side  to try to fix it. Is this a cardinal sin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry if these question(s) are too broad. I'm new to wood working and would just like to start with good habits of keeping a sharp knife!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4196" LastActivityDate="2018-02-01T07:08:33.563" Title="Whittling knife sharpening with Kennametal sharpening stone" Tags="|sharpening|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6903" CreationDate="2018-01-31T17:48:28.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sharpening is a very broad topic with a lot of information out there. The main thing to keep in mind is that it's very difficult to ruin steel with hand sharpening - even the harshest mistakes can be re-ground and re-sharpened, costing only time. With power sharpening you can easily lose the temper of the steel, which is next to impossible to fix a home properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sharpening a carving knife to 20 degrees is a common angle, and should work out fine. With practice you'll improve at keeping the angle constant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest suggestion is to invest in some fine grit stones. Typical coarse/fine stones you can find are extremely coarse when compared to typical grits used for sharpening woodworking edges tools. These are typically 220/400 (and sometimes even less), while at least 1000 grit is recommended for honing, with many going up to 8000 on stones and then polish with compounds at 30000 or higher grit. You'd be surprised how sharp steel can be with the proper progression of grits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stroping is quite different from sharpening. In sharpening, you are removing metal. In stroping, you align the burr (the microscopic edge left after sharpening), so the movement is always in one direction, from the cutting edge backwards. In sharpening, you can move the knife in both directions on the stone. Some people add polishing compounds to the strop leather, to further polish the edge. Stroping in general is a final touch, and you can achieve great results without it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From personal experience, I use 600/1200 DMT diamond plate and 1000/8000 King water stone for sharpening and honing my chisels and striking knife. The 8000 stone leaves a mirror finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2018-01-31T17:48:28.220" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6881" CreationDate="2018-01-31T22:20:38.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use your circular saw and a clamped straight edge to iteratively cut out a dado. It won't have a flat bottom (because circular saw teeth typically aren't flat tipped) and you'll need to be insanely careful to get things lined up, but it'll work, and add strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever your final plans for insetting the shelf, you could add a solid wood lip to the front of the shelf. This doesn't necessarily help with how it stays up, but it will strengthen the MDF sheet, which can sag in time and imperfect conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3990" LastActivityDate="2018-01-31T22:20:38.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6903" CreationDate="2018-02-01T05:39:26.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The type of the stone (the kind of abrasive it is composed of) is important to know. Broadly speaking, it could be natural stone (hard or soft Arkansas usually), synthetic (aluminum oxide or silicon carbide), or a water stone. I think given the name Kennametal, it's unlikely to be a water stone and is probably aluminum oxide or Silicon Carbide; I'd bet aluminum oxide. Those work better for me with oil rather than water. Mineral oil is what is sold as &quot;honing oil&quot; and is what I use. It's available from the drugstore (laxatives aisle) and other places; its sometimes used as a &quot;finish&quot; on wooden cutting boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aluminum oxide stones can get glazed pretty easily if used without lubricant. If you are going to use water, best to add a few drops of dishwashing detergent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's already glazed (&quot;found&quot; and &quot;toolbox&quot; stones always seem to be), your progress will be very slow. With a sharp stone you should be able to see the grinding of a single stroke (if you look closely). The stone's surface is restored by &lt;em&gt;lapping&lt;/em&gt;, which also flattens the surface if done properly. A proper lapping plate is expensive, so if you're not yet in for the long haul, you might want to get some diamond sharpening wands (they come in a package and have a form-factor roughly like a shortened, double-thickness tongue-depressor. They work pretty quickly and last a while. Water lubes those fine. They're also convenient to handle for such a short blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2018-02-01T05:39:26.557" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6903" CreationDate="2018-02-01T07:08:33.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;TL;DR warning&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;would like a sharp knife, so I don't get discouraged by slow progress. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's another issue here that's more important than slow progress, a sharp knife is safer in use. This seems paradoxical but blunt (and blunt&lt;strong&gt;er&lt;/strong&gt;) edged tools require more force to push through the wood, and this tends to lead more easily to accidents. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition blunt knives are more fatiguing to use.... by quite a large margin sometimes, depending on the hardness of the wood you're working with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And last but not least a very sharp edge leaves a superior surface on wood, so there are visual advantages too for the woodworker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I was going to use the stone with water on it &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a chance that the stone you have there isn't really ideal for sharpening this type of tool, sorry but it's impossible to be more definitive without knowing more about Kannametal stones in general (very little info online) but more importantly that stone in particular which of course we can't know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Judging from the stones I have used I think it's a silicon carbide honing stone but it's impossible to tell its grit rating from looking at it. And in addition to grit rating the binder or 'matrix' is a critical factor in how a stone works and the quality of the edge it can produce.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll have to test it out and see how it works firsthand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stropping after using the stone will go a long way to refining the edge created however good it is, &lt;em&gt;if&lt;/em&gt; you discover the stone is a little too coarse you may find it beneficial to get a finer stone or diamond plate. Remember this is based on a guess of the stone's qualities, if it works well don't think you need to spend more money on further sharpening supplies to chase the elusive &quot;perfect edge&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; I have a suspicion based on its appearance that the stone won't work well with plain water, so add some dishwashing liquid to it or use a light oil instead. If you want to try oil no need to buy anything specially marketed for honing, baby oil works very well, is cheap, completely non-toxic and can be bought anywhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;and try to keep the knife at a 20 degree angle to remove the chips and regain the edge. Is this the correct high level process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically yes. Honing angle is the most critical thing to maintain to achieve good, consistent results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice it's not as easy as it sounds however. You will very likely find it difficult to hold the same angle consistently as you hone, almost everyone does when they start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something that will help you a lot in checking whether you're honing at too steep or too shallow an angle is to colour the bevel black with a felt tip/permanent marker. This way the portion of the bevel in contact with the abrasive is instantly visible as a shiny line against the black, rather than trying to see a shiny line against other shiny metal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also, I have recently learned about stropping, but I am unfamiliar with it. Is the concept of keeping a 20 degree angle the same? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially yes. You don't have to be quite as religious about maintaining the exact angle but if you can do so that's great. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Details on what works best when stropping relate to numerous variables including the strop surface (leather*, cloth or bare wood/MDF) and whether you're using a bare strop or one loaded with an abrasive material (stropping compound, metal polish, diamond paste). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; remember when stropping to &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; use an edge-trailing technique. You never push an edge into a strop like you do on a honing stone, you always draw it backwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure you look at the list to the right of this page under Related for much good information on sharpening that you might find useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two additional Answers I'd like to draw your attention to:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3374/how-can-i-tell-if-wood-turning-lathe-chisels-are-sharp/3377#3377&quot;&gt;How can I tell if wood turning (lathe) chisels are sharp?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4722/when-sharpening-how-do-i-assess-what-grit-to-start-on/4735#4735&quot;&gt;When sharpening, how do I assess what grit to start on?&lt;/a&gt; (specifically the section &lt;strong&gt;Little and often&lt;/strong&gt;, this has particular relevance to whittling and chip-carving knives)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Type of leather may or may not matter. If you're using bare leather the type of leather matters a lot, but if you're applying some abrasive to the leather it doesn't matter much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-02-01T07:08:33.563" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6908" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-02T01:52:26.537" Score="2" ViewCount="1199" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is drying time of dewaxed shellac before I apply water based top coat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4757" LastActivityDate="2018-03-04T06:42:30.880" Title="Drying time of dewaxed shellac" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6908" CreationDate="2018-02-02T06:32:08.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your shellac is fresh the drying time should be measured in minutes, literally as soon as the alcohol has evaporated shellac is considered touch-dry and it should no longer be tacky*. A very thin coat applied to bare wood can dry in as little as 1-2 minutes (!) in a warm room, but any thicker applications should be expected to take 10-20 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that after initially drying shellac isn't quite hard and you may want to wait 15 minutes to an hour before overcoating it, depending on your local drying conditions and how many coats you've applied. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;__&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*If it remains tacky for an extended period of time, hours or longer, it indicates the shellac has aged and the common advice is to discard it. As much as possible shellac should be made up fresh in small batches (or bought in small containers, paying attention to the production date) so that it gets used up and isn't stored for months and months. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-02-02T06:32:08.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6910" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6912" CreationDate="2018-02-02T18:09:21.887" Score="2" ViewCount="444" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the planning stage of building a bookshelf with cabinet doors. I'd like to use alternating vertical strips of woods of contrasting colors for an art deco look. The obvious way to do that is to use fairly thick strips for more glue area, but that makes a heavy door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I had the idea of using thinner strips, if it will hold together, and building it as frame and panel. (I'd still need the frame so there's a place to mount the hinges.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first idea was to glue thin strips to very thin plywood, but that risks the strips making the plywood flex, since the strips would expand and the plywood doesn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another idea is to reinforce the back of the panel with cloth, but that makes the inside of the panel ugly , and may still have warping issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A variation on the reinforcing cloth idea is to put strips on both sides of the cloth. I actually tried this out with some scraps, but I don't know whether it would scale well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I could edge glue it without any special reinforcement, and count on the frame to provide structural support for the panel, possibly with reinforcing cloth wrapped over the top and bottom edges and hidden in deeper than usual frame grooves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which of these options are workable and practical?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One aesthetic point in favor of the heavy slab is that the frame would kind of detract from the art deco look. If the frame idea doesn't work well, I might just settle for that design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Afterthought: A variation on the slab door idea would be to make the first few strips thick enough for the hinge hardware, and the rest thin to reduce the weight, and use metal C-channel at the top and bottom (through a groove in the thick section) to keep it from flexing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4404" LastEditorUserId="4404" LastEditDate="2018-02-02T19:21:22.940" LastActivityDate="2018-02-02T21:44:18.200" Title="What are the best ways to glue thin edges?" Tags="|design|cabinetry|gluing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6860" CreationDate="2018-02-02T19:22:57.767" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would do another coat (or two) with the brush. Then sand it with 220 grit to remove the brush marks. This way you would build up a finish. Don't be afraid of sanding it after building up a thick coat. you could even lightly sand between coats too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I would ask you to consider a spar urethane for outdoor stuff as it is a UV inhibitor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4687" LastActivityDate="2018-02-02T19:22:57.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6910" CreationDate="2018-02-02T21:44:18.200" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with your concern that frame might not give an art deco appearance.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thinnest panel I would recommend without a frame is 3/4&quot; thick for widths up to about 30&quot;. It is important that you keep your individual strips at a max of 3&quot; and orient them so that the grain directions alternate between pieces so that if one wants to warp to the inside, the adjacent pieces want to warp in the opposite direction.  In addition, I have some concern about 7' high continuous panels.  Each of the wood pieces in the panel will have to have very straight grain from one end to the other if you hope to have the panels flat remain flat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend 2 stacked doors if your design can accommodate them. There are plenty of ways you could introduce a horizontal design element in art deco style with panel doors above and below. In fact such an element could be associated with a fixed center shelf which would also add stability to the cabinet carcass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2018-02-02T21:44:18.200" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6913" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-02T23:55:11.590" Score="1" ViewCount="114" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a bed frame, the edges are 2 meters long, each edge should carry 100Kg at the middle point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood type is pine, how do I calculate the minimal dimensions that can bear that weight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there such calculator? That would help me in other furniture projects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4758" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2018-02-03T02:37:21.107" LastActivityDate="2018-02-03T02:37:21.107" Title="Which wood dimensions can bear X kilos at Y meters long?" Tags="|design|pine|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6914" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6915" CreationDate="2018-02-03T01:30:24.657" Score="1" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this 4&quot; jointer that is over 30 years old and has seen little to no usage for the last 15 years. The bed of the jointer had developed a small amount of surface rust. I was able to clean up the rust using steel wool and a lot of elbow exercise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know what is the recommended surface treatment for the raw cast iron surfaces so as to prevent the return of the rust in the future. I do understand that repeated treatments may be necessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously some type of oil is not a good idea because it can get onto wood being fed through the jointer and cause staining of the wood work piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2018-02-03T06:10:45.753" Title="Seal a 4&quot; jointer bed" Tags="|jointer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2018-02-05T19:07:11.720" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6914" CreationDate="2018-02-03T06:10:45.753" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Johnson's Paste Wax works just fine, no need to go further than your cleaning closet or supermarket to look for something fancier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll get a lot faster and better penetration (and therefore retention) if you heat the cast iron gently first. Not hot enough to burn yourself, just hot enough you don't want to keep your hand on there indefinitely (although any heat is better than none). You might leave it in direct sunlight on a warm day, set it on top of or close to a wood stove, remove the tables and stick them in your oven on warm, direct a heat blower on them for awhile, or whatever you can come up with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once warm, the paste wax will melt immediately on contact. Keep the surface moist with melted wax, but not so much it drips down the sides (just makes more clean-up work). Once it's sucked up all it will, let it cool completely and wipe off the excess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be surprised to see how much wax it will take. What seems like a solid surface behaves more like a certain type of sponge in this case. Part of this is that paste wax is a mix of wax and mineral spirits (paint thinner to soften wax for application). The mineral spirits is what gives paste wax its characteristic smell. The evaporation of that component is what constitutes the &quot;drying&quot;. One consequence of this is that not everything you put on stays on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the surface still seems dry and scratchy to the touch after you're finished, you may be able to improve it with a second application. Reports vary on that count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2018-02-03T06:10:45.753" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6916" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-05T14:52:08.337" Score="5" ViewCount="4161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have a HPLV dust extractor, which has a low rate 183m3/hr (the bin style dust collector) - it does a great job, but tools at the end of the duct system get a drop in suction  (which is understandable).  I want to upgrade to something with more suction  - so I started looking at a dust connector with more suction... I assumed the models with 1150m3/hr would do the trick, but reading up, these are apparently HVLP collectors and they don't deal with dust well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming I'm missing some key information here, like flow != pressure. But I'd like to understand why upgrading to something with more flow won't give me better suction, or provide extraction of fine dust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4769" LastActivityDate="2018-12-05T12:57:46.087" Title="HPLV vs HVLP dust collector" Tags="|dust-collection|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6916" CreationDate="2018-02-05T17:09:40.110" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A shop vac has high pressure (lots of suction) but it has a low volume so you do need to be fairly close like hooking it to your sander directly (and they have the extra problem of clogging quickly too).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a large dust collector in my shop and it has 2300 CFM, (3908m3/hr) and has a 1 Micron filter.  It does a great job at collecting chips and an ok job at dust, I have a hood I use when using a hand sander to help reduce what gets sent into the air, However, you need to be pretty close to the hood.  It also works best with 4&quot; (or larger) hose going to all tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To alleviate the airborn dust (and the stuff that is most dangerous to your health over the long term) I have a ceiling mounted dust filter which is designed to move a lot of air through the filter but it is for stuff that floats in the air, the stuff you can breath in.  Ultimately I think you need both systems to keep the shop 'clean'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a one person shop, having gates to close off tools that aren't being used will also help put more airflow to the tools at the end of the line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flow != Pressure TRUE&#xA;flow is a measure of volume, over time, pressure is the speed of the flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Garden hose has a low pressure and a moderate flow, hook it up to a pressure washer and you the volume or flow of the hose can more than keep up with the washer, but the pressure is MUCH higher mostly because it is being forced through a much smaller opening. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hose is more efficient at washing lots of mud off the driveway, but the pressure washer is better at cleaning the stuck on stuff.  While a fire hose has a bit of pressure, what is much more important is the total volume of water being sent to the fire.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both have their uses and are ideal for different applications.  I recommend HV for a decent sized work shop, and I also recommend an air filter for any shop no matter the kind of vacuum system you have to keep things clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2018-02-05T17:09:40.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6918" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6919" CreationDate="2018-02-06T09:54:32.090" Score="2" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some loudspeakers with the front panel made of MDF, on which a matte plastic foil was attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 15 years the glue is ineffective and the plastic shrunk, so I would like to remove it completely and I would like to apply some primer and black matte paint, both acrylic/water based (I understood it's better suited to my case than oil based).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will sand the front panel everywhere, but how can I ensure, without applying primer, that I actually removed all the glue residues?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I use the colour of the surface, should I use a damp cloth, or is the primer the final test and I should simply sand again the parts where it's not sticking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have much experience with wood working, in the past I built something but I used new wood that required no treatment before painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: sorry, I initially wrongly wrote particle board instead of MDF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4774" LastEditorUserId="4774" LastEditDate="2018-02-06T13:32:50.770" LastActivityDate="2018-02-06T15:19:48.353" Title="How to be confirm removal of glue residues?" Tags="|glue|paint|surface-preparation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6918" CreationDate="2018-02-06T15:19:48.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are applying a pigmented finish like paint then it really doesn't matter, this is usually only a concern with clear finishes or stains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you really want to see it, wiping down with a solvent like mineral spirits, paint thinner, denatured alcohol or water (will raise the grain) should show you any spots you missed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2018-02-06T15:19:48.353" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6920" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-06T18:23:24.590" Score="3" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;I applied so much oil stain in a piece of wood of pine, and now it looks a bit weird (ugly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made a try with much less oil in an other piece of the wood, and looks better, so I wonder if there is a method I can use to remove the over used oil on the other pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4776" LastActivityDate="2018-06-07T09:14:13.383" Title="Can I remove color oil stain excess from my piece of wood?" Tags="|staining|pine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6921" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6922" CreationDate="2018-02-06T23:34:27.437" Score="2" ViewCount="617" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made a few jigs for the table saw that needed runners. What I found was that my runners were just perfect before I attached them to the jig but after I screwed them on, the screw seems to widen the runners just a tiny bit so that they don't run as smooth. This requires extra work to get them running perfectly again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I notice people on YouTube gluing and then screwing their runners. I don't see why you'd need to screw them if the glue is doing all the work (considering that on most sleds the runners are not under stress).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also noticed that solid wood runners don't show this problem as much as UHMW (ultra high molecular weight polyurethane) ones. I've never tried metal or plywood runners. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I always pre-drill my screw holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone found any problems with &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; gluing the runners?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2838" LastActivityDate="2018-02-07T03:42:29.343" Title="Table saw sled runners with just glue (not screws)" Tags="|table-saw|sled|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6921" CreationDate="2018-02-07T03:42:29.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Has anyone found any problems with just gluing the runners?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One problem is that most glue doesn't stick so well to UHMW. Another is that when a glue joint fails, it tends to fail all at once: your sled could be guided by the runner one moment, and not guided the next, and that's bad news at the table saw. Personally, I'd feel a lot better with some mechanical fasteners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What I found was that my runners were just perfect before I attached them to the jig but after I screwed them on, the screw seems to widen the runners just a tiny bit so that they don't run as smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can think of a few ways to solve that problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;oversized holes:&lt;/strong&gt; Fasten the runners from the bottom into the sled using pan head screws. Predrill the runner with holes that are slightly larger than the threads, and use a flat bottomed countersink so that the screw holds the runner to the sled, but there's still a little wiggle room. You can add glue to fix the position of the runner, or you can just tighten the screws enough that friction holds the runner in place. This last option would could let the runner get out of alignment, but it also gives you the ability to adjust the alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tapped holes:&lt;/strong&gt; If you want to fasten the runners from the top side of the sled, drill and countersink the holes in the sled, and then drill and tap holes in the runner so that you can use machine screws. With the threads already cut, the runner material shouldn't expand as you screw in the fastener.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;adjustable runner:&lt;/strong&gt; Don't make your runner quite so tight. You've already inadvertently discovered one way to make a runner fit more tightly in the slot, and there are countless others that would let you fine tune the fit of the runner after it's installed instead of trying to fit it perfectly beforehand.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2018-02-07T03:42:29.343" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6923" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6924" CreationDate="2018-02-07T04:42:56.153" Score="2" ViewCount="2977" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a small cabinet that I plan on wrapping in stained and wood and mounting on the wall as a liquor cabinet. The wrapped wood I plan on using 3/4 plywood with 5mm popular plywood on top of that. The thin plywood matches the shelving I have in my house, but I want the wrapped wood to be thicker, which is why I am planning on this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is my best way to glue the 3/4 and 5mm plywood together? Since the top is will be stained, I want to avoid any damage by using screws/brad nails and wood filler. The pieces are 26&quot;x16&quot;, so nothing too big. Thanks for the thoughts!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3981" LastActivityDate="2018-02-07T07:54:40.133" Title="Gluing plywood together" Tags="|joinery|glue|plywood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6923" CreationDate="2018-02-07T07:54:40.133" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plenty of clamps for the areas they'll reach (i.e. around the perimeter) and for the centre sections clamping cauls is the way to bond sheet material together if you can't use screws or nails to tack the two pieces together. If you will be clamping the ply down to a worktable surface you can substitute heavy weights for the cauls, but cauls are much more effective (can apply more force) so are well worth the couple of minutes they take to make. For more on cauls and similar clamping strategies see the following, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3019/how-to-clamp-where-clamps-cannot-reach&quot;&gt;How to clamp where clamps cannot reach?&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1986/what-advantages-do-f-style-clamps-offer-for-gluing-up-a-thick-laminate/1988#1988&quot;&gt;What advantages do F-style clamps offer for gluing up a thick laminate?&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever you use as your standard woodworking glue will be fine for this. But if using any type of PVA (white or yellow) because of the large surface make sure you have everything needed to hand and have an efficient way of spreading glue over wide areas — an old credit card notched lightly with a file or a small roller both work well. I would advise applying adhesive to both faces to be joined, not just one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also a good idea to have practised the clamping procedure in a dry run ahead of time so you don't have any unforseen delays. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last note, you &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; lightly sand the plywood faces just prior to bonding them together if you want to ensure a consistent, strong joint. See this previous Answer for more on why you shouldn't glue old wood surfaces together, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4151/what-do-i-need-to-do-to-prepare-wood-for-gluing/4159#4159&quot;&gt;What do I need to do to prepare wood for gluing?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-02-07T07:54:40.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6920" CreationDate="2018-02-07T08:02:55.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the oil stain is still quite fresh you can usually wipe away some portion of the excess using paper towels or rags wet with plenty of mineral spirits/white spirit/turpentine substitute. But because the stain is intended to penetrate wood this might not remove enough to look the way you want, but there's no harm in trying it as it doesn't interfere with the next option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the stain has had a chance to dry well however (several hours to overnight or longer) wiping with solvent is unlikely to work well* so your only real option is to get back to bare wood by planing, scraping or sanding the surface off and then staining more lightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*And paint stripper tends not to do any better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-02-07T08:02:55.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3817" CreationDate="2018-02-07T21:48:07.483" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is this design begging for future problems? Are those problems minor and the top should be just fine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes,&lt;/strong&gt; it's a problem, and &lt;strong&gt;no&lt;/strong&gt;, it's not minor problem. The whole point of traditional breadboard construction is to keep the table top flat while still allowing it to expand and contract across its width. A 30&quot;-wide panel could easily expand or contract by 1/4&quot; or more seasonally. Attaching the &quot;breadboard end&quot; with pocket screws prevents that movement and will cause the panel to crack over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pocket holes can be a great shortcut, but sometimes you save more by spending a little extra time to do the job properly. This is one of those cases. Using a router, it doesn't take that much time to form a proper breadboard joint, and the final product will be a big improvement over the pocket hole version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2018-02-07T21:48:07.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6929" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6930" CreationDate="2018-02-08T02:37:40.137" Score="1" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to replace an interior door with one that is mostly pet-proof mesh screen (like a patio door). I've come up empty on the &quot;just buy it&quot; front and am now looking at making one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first thought was to sandwich the mesh between a couple of boards - but can't seem to find any materials that will sum to equal 1 3/8&quot;. Would it be okay if the door ends up being slightly under in terms of width? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize this isn't a discussion site - but I'm completely new to woodworking and could use any advice you're willing to give. Thanks,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Did you mean slightly under in terms of thickness? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, I did. Rephrased, is it alright to replace a 1 3/8&quot; door with, say a 1&quot; or 1 1/4&quot; door?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Tell us what shop tools you have access to, especially to a table saw and possibly a planer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have access to a drill, jig, and router + anything that Home Depot may rent to me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4781" LastEditorDisplayName="user4781" LastEditDate="2018-02-08T18:43:18.080" LastActivityDate="2018-02-09T18:06:28.127" Title="Best way of building an interior door with screen" Tags="|door|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6929" CreationDate="2018-02-08T06:27:24.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My first thought was to sandwich the mesh between a couple of boards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no need to invent something new here. All the screen doors I've ever seen have the screen wrapped around a frame that's then inserted into the door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are plenty of articles and plans about screen doors freely available on the net, so search around for a plan that you like. Here's &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thisoldhouse.com/how-to/how-to-build-screen-door&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;one from This Old House&lt;/a&gt;, for example. Once you fine one, you can adjust it to suite your situation, such as adjusting the height, width, and thickness of the door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;is it alright to replace a 1 3/8&quot; door with, say a 1&quot; or 1 1/4&quot; door?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's your house and your door -- your opinion (and perhaps your spouses and/or landlord's) is all that matters. Most likely, if you paint the door to match the trim, nobody is going to notice if the door isn't quite as deep as the jamb. Maybe the next inhabitants will look at it and think that it's not quite right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll want one face of the door even with what I would call the face of the door jamb (the frame that encloses the door), and you'll need some narrower hinges. You'll probably also need to add a 3/8&quot;-thick filler strip around the inside of the jamb so that the door has something solid to close against. But as long as you do that, the thinner door should work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have access to a drill, jig, and router + anything that Home Depot may rent to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making good, clean cuts that are perfectly square could be a bit of a challenge with those tools. You could make a rough cut with a hand saw or jig saw and then clean it up with a router, or you could rent a job-site table saw. Being able to mount the router in a table would be helpful, but it doesn't have to be anything fancy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Screen doors are typically made using cope and stick joinery. You don't have to do it that way -- you could use mortise and tenons, or dowels, or some other method -- but a cope and stick joint will be easier to form than a mortise and tenon, given the tools you have, and much stronger than a butt joint. Special router bits &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/round-rail-and-stile-router-bit-set?sid=V9146&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;like this one&lt;/a&gt; are available. They're not cheap, but it's the right tool for your job. Cope and stick joints are stronger because they have some mechanical interconnection, and because they provide more surface area to be glued. And the best thing about this style of joint is that it makes it easy to create a very polished look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2018-02-09T18:06:28.127" LastActivityDate="2018-02-09T18:06:28.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6931" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6935" CreationDate="2018-02-08T08:47:10.883" Score="2" ViewCount="940" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;I'd just sanded down the lacquer from my guitar, which worked pretty well. After a control of the surface I saw some white rough spots as you can see in the following pictures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xSwoz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xSwoz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;First image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dWKRI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dWKRI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Second image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I know it's ash wood. The spots only appeared after longer sanding these areas. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Now I have two questions:&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;1. What have I done wrong?&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;2. How can I remove these spots?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked at &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5752/spots-on-live-edge-after-sanding&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; but it didn't really help me... Thanks for you help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4782" LastActivityDate="2018-02-08T13:18:34.347" Title="White spots on ash wood" Tags="|sanding|wood-repair|hardwood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6932" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6934" CreationDate="2018-02-08T09:27:59.700" Score="1" ViewCount="136" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;I've sanded the body of my guitar but there are still some dents with paint in it. It's ash wood. My question is how I can remove the paint in these dents?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KY9MA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KY9MA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dent one&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UIbYL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UIbYL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dent two&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4782" LastActivityDate="2018-02-08T13:14:50.737" Title="How to remove paint in dent of guitar" Tags="|sanding|refinishing|hardwood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6933" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-08T12:56:44.640" Score="3" ViewCount="1241" Body="&lt;p&gt;I get Minwax polyurethane and it is oil based, indoor use. But I have some projects that will be used outside, couldn't I use the stuff I have without having to buy spar urethane? I am thinking it will work because it is oil-based. Water wouldn't be able to remove it very easily. So why is it indoor use only?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2018-02-08T13:20:29.193" Title="Can polyurethane be used outdoors?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6932" CreationDate="2018-02-08T13:14:50.737" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two ways: chemical, and physical. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;chemical: use paint stripper. if there is still finish left on the body you'll want to test this in an inconspicuous spot to make sure that finish isn't affected undesirably by the stripper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;physical: get in there with blades and picks to pull out the paint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll ultimately probably need both - using small stiff brushes and picks in combination with the stripper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2018-02-08T13:14:50.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6931" CreationDate="2018-02-08T13:18:34.347" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard to tell from just photos - &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_dress&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the lighting and white balance can throw things off&lt;/a&gt;. This looks to me like you haven't fully removed the lacquer from most of the guitar, and those whitish spots are where you have finally gotten down to bare wood. Ash, like many woods when sanded, appears whiter than it actually is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2018-02-08T13:18:34.347" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6933" CreationDate="2018-02-08T13:20:29.193" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;regular PU is not well-suited to the outdoors because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;it has no UV degradation inhibitors in it, so eventually the sun will eat it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;it is fairly rigid/brittle. seasonal movement will cause it to crumble.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;spar PU/varnish has UV inhibitors in it and it is more flexible than regular PU to prevent exactly those two types of failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2018-02-08T13:20:29.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6937" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-08T15:46:52.600" Score="2" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a wall hanging guitar stand, and I need a strong dowel to hold the V shaped head to the block that I'm going to mount in the wall. The dimensions of the head are &#xA;L:5 3/16&quot; &#xA;W:3 11/16&quot;&#xA;H:1/2&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of using a 3&quot; x 3/16&quot; dowel but I don't know if that will support the 10-20 pounds it needs too. I already looked at a post about how much weight a dowel can hold and it didn't help me much. Help please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4784" LastActivityDate="2018-02-08T15:46:52.600" Title="I'm making a guitar stand and need a maximum dowel weight" Tags="|dowel|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2021-12-01T21:20:56.200" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6929" CreationDate="2018-02-09T00:37:58.923" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you rent a table saw and have some experience in how to use it you can size 2x? lumber from 1 1/2&quot; down to 1 3/8&quot;.  Whenever I am working with pine on a project and I am not to choosy, I look for 2x10 or 2x12 stock at the big box stores.  If you spend a few minutes sorting though the stock you can often find pieces that are almost clear of knots.  I would be inclined to keep the use frame profiles no smaller than 1 3/8&quot; by 2 3/4&quot;, making sure that the grain is as straight as possible to reduce the risk of warping. One challenge you will face is connecting the corners You are going to need full depth mortise and tenon fully glued connections.  Make the tenons approx. 1/2&quot; thick. To hold the screen you can make a 3/8&quot; dado around perimeter of the frame opening, staple the screen into the dado and then apply a wood stop to hide the raw edges and fastenings of the screen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the saw you will need a stapler, wood glue, a framing square, and sandpaper.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2018-02-09T00:37:58.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6940" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-09T11:23:41.723" Score="3" ViewCount="48" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a table utilizing plywood as legs and solid ash wood as a tabletop.&#xA;I plan on lacquering plywood and oiling the tabletop.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1) Should I be wary of oil interacting with lacquer at join line?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) I need quite strong connection -- the tabletop is cantilevered, so I'm going to glue wood to plywood. My understanding is that I should glue first and finish after - am I right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FaRMq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FaRMq.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1811" LastActivityDate="2018-02-09T12:32:10.210" Title="Can the finish be different on joined pieces" Tags="|finishing|glue|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6940" CreationDate="2018-02-09T12:32:10.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't worry about the finish &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; much.  After all, who is going to be peering under the table to see how neat the finish is?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There should be no problem with the interaction,  If you oil the lacquer, it will just sit on the surface and eventually be wiped off.  If you lacquer the oil, it won't stick very well (so I would lacquer first, and oil after).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would be more concerned about, is the strength of the joint.  Gluing to end grain is weak, and half of the plywood surface will be end grain.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest putting some screws through the back of the cantilever and into the wood top (being careful not to go too far of course!).  The problem with &lt;em&gt;this&lt;/em&gt;, is that it will tend to split the plywood; therefor use round-head or pan-head screws, and screw onto a washer (to spread the load further).  If you are worried about the visibility of this, you could hide the screw heads in a recess you drill with something that gives a flat-bottomed hole.  Pocket screws would be perfect for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you could dowel/biscuit-joint the top to the legs.  (Belt and braces would be both)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1646" LastActivityDate="2018-02-09T12:32:10.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6818" CreationDate="2018-02-11T00:57:37.623" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Home depot:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/p/LDR-Industries-3-4-in-x-3-ft-Galvanized-Steel-Schedule-40-Cut-Pipe-307-34X36/100571552&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.homedepot.com/p/LDR-Industries-3-4-in-x-3-ft-Galvanized-Steel-Schedule-40-Cut-Pipe-307-34X36/100571552&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;any size you want.  All you need to know is the length you want and the diameter of the pipe&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="686" LastActivityDate="2018-02-11T00:57:37.623" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6872" CreationDate="2018-02-11T02:10:25.583" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are really two parts to aging wood: coloring and physical mark-up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To age brand new pine wood (2X4's in my case), I started with a flat head screw driver. Marked up the pine by hitting it at different angles of the head. Also, did a few deep scratches up and down, a few inches. Next, took an adjustable wrench with the adjustable part sticking out, beat the wood with it. Took a random strangely shaped piece of metal I found laying around and also made marks with it. Then took the side of the screw driver and hit the edges to get them &quot;down&quot;, at least in some places. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, took a back of a hammer and actually cracked parts of the wood &amp;amp; dug holes in it. The digging looks very close to the natural &quot;missing pieces of wood&quot; (forget what that is called, knots?), but that may be too much for your garden, not sure what you are trying to match looks like. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All these methods were sprinkled on, as it &lt;strong&gt;all adds up fast&lt;/strong&gt;, less can be more.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Color; First tried the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wikihow.com/Age-Wood-With-Vinegar-and-Steel-Wool&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;vinegar with steel wool thing&lt;/a&gt;. While it looked okay...I decided to go with a stain. After the stain dried, I used liming wax. This worked really well, as the liming wax hits the cracks and wholes. Not sure if the wax will stay out doors so you could use a vintage white paint also. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When done, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/6892/what-technique-is-used-to-give-new-wood-the-distressed-white-color-only-in-crack&quot;&gt;it looked very close to what I was aiming for&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastEditorUserId="430" LastEditDate="2018-02-11T02:17:08.033" LastActivityDate="2018-02-11T02:17:08.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6946" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-11T20:58:06.370" Score="0" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hCtiG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Friend got a little rough original doors would like to repair lost some slivers of wood, what do you think?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4797" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2018-02-12T21:54:01.720" LastActivityDate="2018-02-12T21:58:58.753" Title="Door repairable?" Tags="|wood-repair|door|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6947" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-11T22:40:36.650" Score="6" ViewCount="1366" Body="&lt;p&gt;After staining with an oils based stain, I let dry for 48 hours. I put a coat of water based polyurethane and the wood began to bubble up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like an air pocket when you lay contact paper. Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6PvaY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iCsEC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HPgRh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4796" LastEditorUserId="163" LastEditDate="2018-07-01T21:43:31.843" LastActivityDate="2018-07-01T21:43:31.843" Title="How can wood bubble?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6948" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6967" CreationDate="2018-02-12T04:42:03.990" Score="4" ViewCount="749" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edited To Add:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main thing I am asking here is whether it is beneficial to have blast gates that close off as much of the unused dust collection branches as possible. I will already have blast gates closed at the tools at the end of every branch. Is it beneficial to also have a blast gate that closes off an entire unused branch at the point it branches? I'd be closing off about 20 feet of 4&quot; PVC duct. If it will improve performance of the dust collector, is it something where I'll really see a noticeable improvement in dust collection at the tool being used, or is it just a few percent that I probably won't really notice? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Original question:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I built some blast gates to put on the main branches of my dust collection system. My goal was to close off the entire volume of that branch so the dust collector doesn't have to evacuate its air when I'm trying to use a tool on a different branch. However, I've run into a problem. Long story short, at the location I'd intended to install at one of the blast gates, there is a conduit blocking the path of the gate. I wouldn't be able to close it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some ideas on how I might fix this. I can use a different style of blast gate, or I might be able to scoot the whole main branch over. However, before I go to that trouble, I'm wondering how important these gates actually are. My dust collection has three main branches (simplified for the purpose of this question): the Radial Arm Saw Branch, the Planer Branch, and the duct to the dust collector. My plan was to be able to close off the entire Radial Arm Saw Branch and the entire Planer Branch when those branches aren't in use. One way to fix this is, instead of closing off the entire branch, I could put the gates at the tools themselves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My gut tells me it won't work as well. If I close off the entire branch, it will be a smaller volume of space for the dust collector to evacuate. But I'm not sure about this. Maybe if the tools on that branch are closed off, it won't really be much more work because no air will be moving along that duct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Will closing off as much of the unused branches as possible make the dust collector do its job better and collect more dust from the tool that is open?&lt;/strong&gt; If so, will it be by a noticeable amount? Or will it mostly not matter as long as the branch is closed off at the end?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a diagram of my duct and where I planned on putting the gates. Instead of putting them here, I could just move them closer to the tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6bGx1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6bGx1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The three main branches of my dust collection duct&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The self-cleaning style blast gates I built. Note that when closed, half of the sliding gate will be above the duct:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C2b0y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C2b0y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Self-cleaning style blast gates&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But that won't work as-is, because there is conduit above the duct:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fUvMa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fUvMa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Conduit blocking the gate&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(For the record, I did check for obstructions before I started hanging duct... but I checked at the other end, which is perfectly clear. I didn't check exactly where I wanted the gates. Whoops.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2018-02-13T17:36:41.330" LastActivityDate="2021-01-18T17:03:16.637" Title="Is it important to minimize volume of duct in a dust collection system?" Tags="|dust-collection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6949" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-12T08:16:57.023" Score="1" ViewCount="305" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to fix solid wood, ash board 5cm thick to a plywood, two boards glued together, total thickness 42mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the parts, grey is ash tabletop&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FaRMq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FaRMq.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I glue it?&#xA;Do I need fingers, or dado joint cuts?&#xA;What should be the finger size?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1811" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2018-02-12T14:58:38.013" Title="Finger size for a finger joint" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6949" CreationDate="2018-02-12T14:48:18.500" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before I ramble on, if this is for personal use, you could just wang some glue on it and it might be fine. We tend to over-engineer things because many of us are surrounded and inspired by furniture and techniques that have lasted generations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you're under-accounting the forces here. If the overhang is 200mm on three sides —which seems perfectly reasonable for a bed table— 2kg applied to (eg) the near edge will pivot around the near side of the joint and exert ~10kg across it. Glue should handle that but repositioning in bed means more like 40-50kg down, ~200kg up. It needs a strong joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood glue is strong, but really only when long-grain fibres meld. You're not going to get that in a butt joint from plywood end-grain .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cutting a shallow dado will provide much more glue surface, as well as a mechanical advantage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use dowel and loose tenons in plywood but they can lever apart the plies. A capped end (eg inside a dado) would help prevent that but I don't think it'd be any stronger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what about a brace along the leg side? It will change the design slightly but it'll provide a lot of stability, even at the far end. I expect this would be against the grain so I'd attach the brace to the surface with flat-head screws (eg pocket hole screws) and  oversized holes in the brace, and not glue. This will allow the surface to swell and contract with the environment, something you don't have to worry too much about with your long joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some combination of that and I expect you'd have something moderately solid, but again, if you have the ability to test any of this without making serious commitments, do that first. I would certainly consider a brace before routing out a dado slot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And by extension, I would not consider a box/finger joint as a way for attaching the legs onto the surface. It's more complicated than a dado with no benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3990" LastEditorUserId="3990" LastEditDate="2018-02-12T14:58:38.013" LastActivityDate="2018-02-12T14:58:38.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6951" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-12T15:56:39.680" Score="2" ViewCount="1439" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't  find the words for my problems. But this is the ply I want to repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vwm0j.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vwm0j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;corner&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6UCNz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6UCNz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;edge&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to make a rack using brackets.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SOoL8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SOoL8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rack&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4800" LastEditorUserId="4800" LastEditDate="2018-02-13T07:41:29.897" LastActivityDate="2018-02-14T17:43:40.133" Title="How to repair the edges of a plywood" Tags="|finishing|plywood|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6951" CreationDate="2018-02-12T16:54:51.310" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think this can be repaired. And if it can the cost will certainly be a lot higher than to replace the sheet entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3604" LastActivityDate="2018-02-12T16:54:51.310" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6953" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-12T18:22:08.607" Score="2" ViewCount="341" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was using a round punch to pound a nail through wood in a confined space, and tried using a locking wrench or vise grips on the hexagonal steel handle of the punch, to keep from hitting my hand, but nothing is quite preventing me from knocking the punch through those clamps. They're good enough for one nail, but I have to readjust them afterward.  Just wondering if there's another clamp strong enough to hold a chisel style handle that you're basically trying to pound through it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, I've since tried wrapping a few layers of duct tape around the hex handle, behind where the clamp is over it, and that prevented the clamp from sliding backwards, or at least it won't happen as frequently this way. Let's see, after hitting a few more nails in, it seems that the clamp will be forced to the end of the punch, no matter what, although the hammer striking its end keeps the tape from going any farther, so I guess the tape will compress as much as possible while staying even with the end, or eventually fold upwards. Maybe it will last for a box of nails though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was also thinking of hand guards, like some chisels have, although they aren't as common on punches (or not widely available that way). Some are interchangeable however. It just depends on how much room there is to use one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nDkgj.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nDkgj.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4801" LastEditorUserId="4801" LastEditDate="2018-02-15T19:43:30.050" LastActivityDate="2018-07-22T17:14:05.260" Title="What's the best clamp for a hex shape?" Tags="|technique|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6946" CreationDate="2018-02-12T21:58:58.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like this should be repairable.  I would probably use a good 2-part epoxy (like West or Entropy) to repair it because it can fill any gaps caused by missing material.  Also it does not require clamping pressure like normal wood glue does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most challenging part of this repair will probably be making sure that the panel does not bond to the epoxy used to repair the frame.  The panel will need to &quot;float&quot; in the frame to accommodate seasonal wood movement.  (Unless the panel is MDF/plywood, in which case it can be glued in place.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2018-02-12T21:58:58.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6317" CreationDate="2018-02-14T04:51:04.130" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd look into what is used to finish wooden bowls too.  Walnut oil is one I recall being the favorite of a bowl maker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4801" LastActivityDate="2018-02-14T04:51:04.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6951" CreationDate="2018-02-14T17:43:40.133" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Due to its composition, i.e. multiple thin sheets of differing wood species glued together at alternating right angles, plywood that is damaged or weathered presents difficulties to repair. Nearly any effect might be achieved using a sufficient amount of epoxy, time, money and effort but each project has it's natural limits as far as what you are willing and able to invest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply sanding down the roughest bits and painting it might be the simplest and easiest option. If it is going to be an indoor shelf or rack, depending on the use it is going to see, paint should hold up just fine so long as you can remove the loose and delaminated bits. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be viable to cut away the worst of the frayed edge and fasten a new piece of material to the edge using fasteners and/or glue. This is often done in furniture and cabinet making in order to hide the exposed edges of plywood. Of course, it is usually done on new material. However, depending on the state of the material within it might be workable. You may likely wish to sand and paint the finished piece in this scenario as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to leave it as is and go with a raw, modern industrial aesthetic. This option might sound entirely flippant (to be fair it is partially meant in jest) but depending on the origin and life of the material, the evident hard usage might be valued for the story it tells. For instance, I have seen craftsman use old workbench tops to create new projects leaving the surface scars of work and time intact. Often a clear coat of urethane is applied to protect, emphasize and in a way freeze the surface just as it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with any repair, it is necessary to weigh the benefits and cost versus replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4327" LastActivityDate="2018-02-14T17:43:40.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6959" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-15T03:39:18.713" Score="2" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just brought an oak veneer to decorate my apartment. (picture 1)&#xA;However the colour is too white and I want to make it a little bit yellow as in the next picture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the right wood finish for this? Should I use oil, wax or oil-based polyurethane?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GL1rp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GL1rp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0WPxB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0WPxB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CASZb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CASZb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4809" LastActivityDate="2018-02-15T17:52:28.210" Title="Oak veneer finishing" Tags="|finish-selection|veneer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6959" CreationDate="2018-02-15T17:52:28.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically that yellow hue is associated with an oil finish, such as boiled linseed oil or tung oil.  However, since the material you have already seems to have a film finish on it you will not be able to apply an oil finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend trying an oil-based polyurethane or an amber shellac.  They should both impart some color.  The shellac will be more likely to bond well with the previous finish, but is more difficult to work with than a polyurethane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important thing with any kind of color matching like this is to first try it on a test piece.  It is very hard to recommend a specific product over the internet as colors vary wildly with different lighting, cameras, monitors, etc.  A test piece will also let you make sure the new finish will bond to the previous finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2018-02-15T17:52:28.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5644" CreationDate="2018-02-15T19:53:13.250" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on your last reply to comments, I believe your are asking &quot;What is the best way to make Kumiko strips out of a plank. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a very fine tutorial/idea source for that: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bigsandwoodworking.com/making-kumiko/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.bigsandwoodworking.com/making-kumiko/&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4812" LastActivityDate="2018-02-15T19:53:13.250" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6964" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6965" CreationDate="2018-02-16T05:07:11.047" Score="3" ViewCount="850" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have no experience with wood and just started reading a book by Haun Larry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's take an example. What happens when it rains and an under-construction house doesn't have a roof yet.&#xA;Do any special measures should be taken to protect wooden parts from rain? Or there's nothing to worry about and work can be resumed as normal after rain is over?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4813" LastActivityDate="2018-02-16T06:27:33.107" Title="What happens to kiln-dried wood when it's exposed to moisture?" Tags="|kiln-dried-wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6964" CreationDate="2018-02-16T06:27:33.107" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is, it depends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Framing lumber is primarily what would be exposed to rain because that's what the house is before the (rough) roof is put on. In my part of the US, framing lumber is primarily green, not kiln dried. I believe this is purposeful, because it's more pliable before it's fully dried and any lack of straightness can be largely &quot;fixed&quot; by proper fastening. It's also cheaper though, so that could be a contributing factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, green lumber in a house frame isn't going to be significantly damaged by some rain, and, as you say, work would just resume when the rain stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kiln-dried lumber, on the other hand, isn't going to stay that way for long if it spends any time in the rain. Also, wood stacked in a pile is not going to dry out as quickly as sticks in a frame that are exposed on all sides. So a tarp over the wood pile if there's any chance of rain is a good practice, whatever kind of wood it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as plywood sheathing and sub-roofing, maybe someone else could weigh in, but exterior grade as it is would definitely stand a couple rainy days without complaint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2018-02-16T06:27:33.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6948" CreationDate="2018-02-16T18:39:20.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no benefit to reducing the &quot;dead&quot; pipe lengths. That has no impact on the available airflow and pressure drop. The only time this would be a concern is if the branch exited the bottom of the duct and over time dust could settle in this pipe. Then when you opened that blast gate, a slug of material would be sent to the dust collector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4817" LastActivityDate="2018-02-16T18:39:20.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6968" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6979" CreationDate="2018-02-16T18:48:58.937" Score="3" ViewCount="955" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just been given several tree 'cookies' (cross sections of trunk or branches) that my wife wants to use in her crafts.  These include some of ash and birch, several around 3&quot; diameter and a few larger ones maybe 10&quot; diameter.  I'm worried that these will crack/split like the Liberty Bell as the wood dries out.  (I've seen that in the past with other tree cookies, although not of these two hardwoods.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something I can use to &quot;fix&quot; these tree slices so that they won't split?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1040" LastActivityDate="2018-02-18T23:14:50.420" Title="How to prevent tree 'cookies' from splitting?" Tags="|green-wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6916" CreationDate="2018-02-16T18:50:55.273" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Removing the fine dust requires capturing the dust in the airstream. The dust extractor does this by completely shrouding the source and pulling a small amount of air through small openings. The airstream can then be filtered at the collection point but the filter usually of small cross section will tend to clog fairly quickly. Dust collectors use large volumes of air to capture the dust into the ductwork. To eliminate the fines that are too light to just settle out when the velocity drops, the use of a cyclone will basically throw the particles out of the airstream against the wall of the cyclone where the particles then slide down into the collection bin. The amount of remaining particles is greatly reduced and can be effectively filtered out without clogging filters prematurely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4817" LastActivityDate="2018-02-16T18:50:55.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6565" CreationDate="2018-02-16T19:13:36.377" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your corded tool will be fine. For storage make sure the tools are kept dry and shielded from dust and dirt (from caring for the cow perhaps). If you use the tools when they are cold it is best to let them warm up a bit before use instead of plug in and cut. Take precaution bringing cold tools into warm spaces as condensation can become an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4817" LastActivityDate="2018-02-16T19:13:36.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6971" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6977" CreationDate="2018-02-17T22:59:54.533" Score="4" ViewCount="407" Body="&lt;p&gt;Serious question. I know of a child who at eight years old was instructed to help the operator of a table saw guide large (8 X 4 foot) plywood sheets through it. Neither operator nor child were wearing any safety equipment, such as eye protection. Child has no previous experience operating power equipment and very limited experience with woodworking. Table saw is over 20 years old, and it is unclear what safety features it has, if any. Operator believes this was safe and appropriate, because child was holding edge of plywood furthest from the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does the community here think? Is there ever an occasion in which a young child should be allowed to help with a table saw in such a manner? What could go wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: Operator has provided the below diagram and photo to support the idea that this was safe and appropriate. Could you also provide specific feedback based on this? It's not certain the representation is accurate, but let's assume it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit 2&lt;/strong&gt;: Operator has stated that he enlisted child because he could not perform the job alone, specifically because he needed someone to hold the plywood &quot;so that it would not bind the table saw blade.&quot; Also that child did not want to help, because he was scared, but operator made him help anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit 3&lt;/strong&gt;: It sounds like context is pretty important here, specifically how much one can trust the operator to do the right thing. I've tried to avoid biasing the question by mentioning for example that the child is my own, or that the operator had also recently poured gasoline on an open fire (which resulted in the can itself catching fire as well as a secondary fire), or that the operator keeps insisting these are both perfectly safe and appropriate. But it sounds like it's not possible to separate the judgment of the operator from this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RrDY6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RrDY6.png&quot; alt=&quot;diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4XUg0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4XUg0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;photo&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4821" LastEditorUserId="4821" LastEditDate="2018-02-21T18:15:15.203" LastActivityDate="2018-02-21T18:15:15.203" Title="Is it appropriate for an 8 year-old to act as a 'helper,' ripping sheets on a table saw?" Tags="|table-saw|safety|power-tools|plywood|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6971" CreationDate="2018-02-18T01:43:58.050" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Tables saws are notorious for removing fingers and throwing back the wood being cut at dangerous speeds. Both can be minimized as risks but the constant and full attention of the operator needs to be on the work at hand. Eye protection is essential. Kickback is more likely if the equipment isn't well maintained or correctly set for the operation at hand. Kickback is more likely if the wood is hard to manage (like poorly-supported large sheets of plywood).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming the child is responsible and not a distraction to the operator (which may be yet another risk factor), the mere coordination of work by multiple people at the saw table is risky. Add to this, the child isn't tall enough to have the same field of vision as the operator, and the child is mostly like a bad height to be hit by anything coming off the table saw.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All this being said, having the child wait a few minutes somewhere safe and help collect and move the offcuts works well. If they are used, setting up the off-feed rollers for smooth flow can be done by a child (and then double checked by the operator). A child can help with the measuring and marking and even the setup of rails and jigs (assuming all is double-checked by the operator). If the shop has dust filtration, having a child 'man' the dust filtration on/off switches may be engaging as well, else there always sweeping and vacuuming. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little creativity will go long way to keep a child engaged and safe, protecting both the child and the child's interest in woodworking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastActivityDate="2018-02-18T01:43:58.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6860" CreationDate="2018-02-18T02:33:20.440" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Rick above. The technique is simple: sand the surfaces and the apply more coats. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanding:&#xA;The better your sanding, the better your results. If you are inclined, start with rough sandpaper and then move to smoother sandpaper (say 320 grit). For table tops, I use 400 grit for the last grit of sandpaper. It should be smooth to the touch with no bumps. It should feel nice to the touch before you put more finish on. Some folks like to finish with fine steel wool (0000). Any blemish you see before applying more finish will be magnified by the sheen of the finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Applying finish:&#xA;Assuming the finish you purchased isn't for a spray gun, then take note of the solvent suggested. If the finish leaves thick ropey trails on a test piece, mix some finish and a little of solvent together (in a separate container) and try again. If you have too much solvent, then the finish will be smooth but flat. Somewhere between ropy thick and too much solvent is a sweet spot for applying the finish. (Note: the sweet spot's mixture will vary depending on temperature and humidity so what worked one day may be different the next.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Risks:&#xA;Beside whatever it says on the side of the can of finish, there may be a couple of gotchas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One, if there is gunk on the door or it isn't clean, your finish may not stick everywhere correctly. &#xA;  Two, especially on the edges, it is easy to sand through the dark finish into raw wood. That is tough not to do and sometimes can't be fixed other than to use a bit of opaque color to hide that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are horrified by the first pass, you can strip the door. I suggest trying a few sandings and coats first (and if still horrified, then strip it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be worthwhile to remove the door and work on it horizontal. The better the lighting, the better your seeing, and the better your seeing the better your work. Use raking light to see the condition of your work every chance you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wish to dig a bit deeper, I suggest looking at Bob Flexner's books. If you can't decide on one, take a look at 'Understanding Wood Finishing'. Best of luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastActivityDate="2018-02-18T02:33:20.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6916" CreationDate="2018-02-18T08:26:16.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those of us in the US are probably used to dealing with air volumes in terms of cubic feet per minute instead of cubic meters per hour. 1 cfm = 1.7 m&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;/h, so...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I currently have a HPLV dust extractor, which has a low rate 183m3/hr (the bin style dust collector)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;183m&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;/h / 1.7 = 107.6cfm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that rate and your description, it sounds like you're talking about what's often called a &lt;em&gt;shop vac&lt;/em&gt; in the US.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I want to upgrade to something with more suction - so I started looking at a dust connector with more suction... I assumed the models with 1150m3/hr would do the trick, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1150m&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;/h / 1.7 = 676.5cfm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A dust collector in that range is a pretty small unit, (like this Jet model](&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001F0R7H8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/JET-DC-650BK-Dust-Collector-Filter/dp/B001F0R7H8&lt;/a&gt;). It probably comes with a 3/4 horsepower motor, and it's really only suitable for small systems. Best if you connect it directly to the machine you're using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;but reading up, these are apparently HVLP collectors and they don't deal with dust well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big reason that these small units don't deal with fine dust very well is that they often come with filter bags that don't trap fine particles. The one I linked to, for example, comes with a 30-micron bag. The dust may get sucked into the hose just fine, but the fine stuff will just get blown right out through the bag. You can buy a 1-micron bag that'll do a much better job for a few dozen dollars, or buy a model with a better filter. &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001KQHV00&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This one&lt;/a&gt; is the same as the one I linked above, but it comes with a 1-micron pleated canister filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to keep the 30-micron bag and locate the dust collector away from the work area and where it can exhaust the air to the outdoors. That can work if your shop is in a garage, for example, and you can just stick the collector outdoors while you're working, but it's not so great if you have a basement shop or neighbors who would be annoyed by the noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm assuming I'm missing some key information here, like flow != pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, flow and pressure are related, but you have to take the size of the pipe into account. A home shop dust collector generally takes a 4&quot; hose, whereas a shop vac will take a 2.5&quot; hose or smaller, so the dust collector is sucking the air through a pipe with a cross section that's 2.5 times greater. Machines will often differ in exactly how much suction they can provide -- this is called &quot;static pressure&quot; and is usually measured in inches of water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I think the big thing that you're missing is the filter issue described above. &lt;strong&gt;A proper dust collector with a quality filter bag will be a huge improvement over the shop vac that you're using now.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2018-02-18T08:26:16.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6971" CreationDate="2018-02-18T08:57:14.260" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there ever an occasion in which a young child should be allowed to help with a table saw in such a manner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If there is a situation where an 8-yo could help with cutting on a table saw, this is probably it.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your diagram, it appears that the child must have been about 7 feet from the blade. I don't think there's much risk of the child being injured by the blade at that distance. The child is also standing well to the side of the saw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What could go wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real risk, as far as the blade is concerned, is to the operator: if the child were to push laterally on the plywood, then it's possible that the back of the blade could grab the plywood and hurl it at the operator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another blade-related risk is that the child might somehow distract the operator, who would understandably want to keep a close eye on the kid for the kid's own safety, and an accident could somehow result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lack of eye protection is something of a concern. Again, with the child standing 7' to the side of the saw, it's unlikely that any chips would be thrown at the kid. The operator is a bit more at risk. Mainly, though, I'd want to have both operator and kid wear safety glasses just to teach the lesson that one should always wear safety glasses when operating woodworking machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dust could also be a concern. The shop looks well ventilated, and again, the kid is well away from the action, but wood dust isn't great for lungs of any age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bottom line:&lt;/strong&gt; It sounds to me as though the adult was doing all the real work, and the kid was &quot;helping&quot; in a way that seems pretty safe and would satisfy a child's natural desire to help a favorite adult with a project. If that project was accompanied by a safety lesson in which the kid learned that machines can be safe if used safely, but that a kid must &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; try to operate a saw without help from an adult, then the right thing probably was happening. Ultimately, final decisions about what is or isn't safe for a kid should be up to the parents, but wise parents will let kids do some slightly dangerous-seeming things with good supervision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2018-02-18T08:57:14.260" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4175" CreationDate="2018-02-18T11:20:22.127" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with you about the need for a deep thread screw.  The euro screw does have a wider thread.  Here's a picture of one:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebay.com/itm/HSI-Euro-Screws-Nickel-Plated-Iron-6-3-x-11-mm-Pack-of-50-656164-0/152795824778?hash=item239357428a:g:iCAAAOSwYwJaE0E4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.ebay.com/itm/HSI-Euro-Screws-Nickel-Plated-Iron-6-3-x-11-mm-Pack-of-50-656164-0/152795824778?hash=item239357428a:g:iCAAAOSwYwJaE0E4&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;They are often used in cabinetry making and come in half inch to two inch sizes from what I have seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4822" LastActivityDate="2018-02-18T11:20:22.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6971" CreationDate="2018-02-18T15:51:57.903" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;TL/DR: child should not have been used as an operator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other answers go into more detail, but the thing that jumped out at me was that the child could unwittingly twist the ply off the fence, which could throw the entire piece at the operator and possibly slice the child on the way by.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As shown, this setup could be managed competently by one person.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the individual wasn't comfortable solo cutting, they should have considered alternatives like crosscutting the sheet with a circular saw and edge guide and then finishing for width on the table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would have also liked for hearing protection to be used, but that's just a grumpy half-deaf carpenter talking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2018-02-18T15:51:57.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6971" CreationDate="2018-02-18T17:32:06.317" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other answers for this question all make excellent points, but I see one overriding issue here and that is that the setup shown for cutting large panels is inadequate.  If cutting a panel requires two people to handle the material, then the setup used is probably inadequate.  Cutting large panels safely requires support at the infeed, side and outfeed faces of the table saw. The single support frame at the side of the table will not allow the panel to slide correctly, nor support it throughout its travel past the blade. There appears to be plenty of room to setup correctly in this shop. There are other questions and answers on this site that discuss ways to do so.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending upon the child's temperament, in my opinion, eight years of age is not too early to introduce him or her to the shop, but safety should be a key primary lesson and this is not a very safe setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2018-02-18T17:32:06.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6968" CreationDate="2018-02-18T23:14:50.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned by Aloysius, PEG is probably what you want to use here - you need to soak the cookie in PEG for a certain period of time (depending on the size/thickness of the cookie). There are charts available online that will help you determine how long this period will be - but it's a reasonably long period of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative is a commercial product called Pentacryl.  Pentacryl works similarly to PEG, but at a much faster rate - typically an overnight soak is sufficient, instead of the weeks (or months) sometimes required with PEG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="282" LastActivityDate="2018-02-18T23:14:50.420" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6981" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-19T13:51:52.810" Score="1" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to build a case similar to what in the past was used for portable sewing machines, but it would be used to carry a 3D printer. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n6W5k.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n6W5k.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sides and the top+handle should be connected/glued together, and the bottom should be connected to the sides only when not in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know the name of this type of case, therefore I cannot easily search online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: how can I design the bottom and how can I easily connect/disconnect it from the walls?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 3D printer would be fixed/screwed to the bottom and I would like to place screws vertically, because they would require tilting of the device for closing/opening the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first idea would be to glue around the base a soft wood frame that includes nuts (not hexagonal, better something with wings). The external walls would include holes through which screws with wings (as shown) would be placed when the box is to be closed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be clear, see other image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I'm not sure how to fix the nut to the wood and I would like to keep the construction as simple as possible, since I do it for friends and I don't want to invest too much time in this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have available, at least: glue, MDF or plywood (I think 6 mm are enough), various screws, a drill, a circular saw. I don't have a router or a jigsaw yet (I can ask around if really needed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7pTSW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7pTSW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cvK8N.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cvK8N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4774" LastEditorUserId="4774" LastEditDate="2018-02-19T15:19:21.473" LastActivityDate="2018-02-21T14:49:05.600" Title="How to make a case with walls+top as a single piece and bottom as only separate part?" Tags="|boxes|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6981" CreationDate="2018-02-19T17:45:41.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That should work.  Where you have &quot;nut, fixed to wood&quot;, search for &quot;threaded wood insert nut&quot; to find something that would fit permanently into the softwood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One concern: 6mm MDF is pretty feeble.  How heavy is this printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1646" LastActivityDate="2018-02-19T17:45:41.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6983" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6995" CreationDate="2018-02-20T03:45:12.140" Score="3" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replicate 12 Victorian 1.75 inch thick 2 foot x 4 foot ornate triangular porch brackets, plus some corbels and other details. My idea was to glue 2 or 3 layers of marine grade plywood together and have a CNC machine mill them. Then I read the only difference between marine grade plywood and regular plywood is there are no voids, but I'm okay with using some wood putty in voids if it will save me $900.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will plywood be okay outdoors if I paint it? Or will it fall apart? Should I buy MDO instead? The look i important as well -- will the edges look like wood or like layers of plywood? Is there another option I'm not thinking of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Difficulty: it's a &quot;historic&quot; home so I can't use any non-historic material like PVC. But it's an 1865 home and plywood was invented in 1865 so technically it should be allowed...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4828" LastActivityDate="2018-02-22T14:43:57.857" Title="How do I duplicate large fretwork, brackets and corbels? Plywood and CNC?" Tags="|plywood|restoration|cnc|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6984" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6985" CreationDate="2018-02-20T07:02:30.723" Score="3" ViewCount="2797" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m new to woodworking and was wondering about the best way to cut dados in MDF. I’ve seen tutorials on cutting dados in real wood using chisels, but I don’t know if it applies to MDF as well because I’ve heard MDF is much more flaky/crumbly than actual wood. I have access to a circular saw, which I was told by a friend I could use to cut them iteratively, but that just sounds like a pain in the rear. I don’t have any planes, and the only electric tools I have are the circular saw and my power drill. Is there a good way to do this without having to purchase other tools?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4738" LastActivityDate="2018-02-23T20:19:19.210" Title="How to Cut Dados in MDF with Hand Tools" Tags="|mdf|dado|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6984" CreationDate="2018-02-20T12:45:02.630" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;MDF is worked with the same tools, but it will be characteristically flaky, as you say, and it will tend to dull edges faster. It's not clear what hand tools you have exactly, but I am guessing you have chisels? If have only chisels and circular saw (power drill isn't very useful here), here's what I would do with your setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;lay out the dado. scribe the lines with a marking knife to assure a clean appearance. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;rough in the joint using the circular saw. Stay ~ 1mm away from your layout lines, but use the depth control to sneak up on the exact depth. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;finish the joint using chisels. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2018-02-20T12:45:02.630" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6983" CreationDate="2018-02-20T17:27:25.400" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the only difference between marine grade plywood and regular plywood is there are no voids&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not true.  Marine plywood has glue that is rated for wet conditions, regular plywood has no such requirement.  There is no guarantee with non-marine plywood that it will hold up outside.  If you decide to go with plywood I would definitely try to find a true marine grade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;will the edges look like wood or like layers of plywood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you fill and sand the machined edges of plywood will show through paint.  It's very hard to have end grain adjacent to face grain and not notice the difference.  Then again, I doubt people would be that close to these pieces so it might work out just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My best recommendation would be PVC, but since that is not allowed I would try to use a rot-resistant solid wood like teak, ipe, or black locust (if you can find it).  If you have to use a less rot-resistant species make sure you repaint it every year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2018-02-20T17:33:24.003" LastActivityDate="2018-02-20T17:33:24.003" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6987" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-20T18:20:15.863" Score="6" ViewCount="5535" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to build a moravian workbench. I am trying to decide between a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lakeerietoolworks.com/collections/all/products/wood-vise-screw-basic-kit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wooden screw from Lake Erie&lt;/a&gt; or trying to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.garrettwade.com/wood-threader-tap-and-die-set-gp.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cut my own thread with a tap and die set&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any experience with cutting threads in relatively large dowels? Are any kits better than others? Should I just buy the Lake Erie pre-fabbed vise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="686" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-11-21T16:30:26.717" LastActivityDate="2021-12-20T20:35:18.100" Title="Making a Wooden Vise (or wooden screw thread)" Tags="|screws|vises|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6984" CreationDate="2018-02-20T22:32:40.893" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add on to @aaron's answer.  A router plane, dado plane or rabbet plane will work fine in mdf.  I would score a deep line if your tool does not have a knicker when starting.  I would also take small bites.  You will end up sharpening more.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="686" LastActivityDate="2018-02-20T22:32:40.893" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3869" CreationDate="2018-02-21T07:57:52.143" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Claw hammer doesn't describe one particular design of a tool. There are different dimensions and materials they are made out of, so the weight and leverage can vary. Some are curved claw, others straight claw, some have sideways pullers also. There are several types of nail pullers, tack pullers, ripping bars, etc., because none of them give you the perfect position to access a nail in all situations. Same goes for claw hammers. I sometimes use four tools to pull a nail so that it goes better over all. The technique depends as much on the tool, as for which is more effective, or whether you're demolishing something versus preserving the rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4801" LastEditorUserId="4801" LastEditDate="2018-02-21T08:18:27.113" LastActivityDate="2018-02-21T08:18:27.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3869" CreationDate="2018-02-21T08:07:33.097" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're concerned about the ergonomics of repetitive nail pulling, I'd use a tool designed specifically for that job that is long enough to give you the leverage you need to pull the nail without pounding on the handle (or pushing unsafely hard).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were breaking down pallets, I would definitely avoid using a hammer for pulling nails. I'd say the claw is more intended for pulling the occasional half-hammered nail that bent on the way in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like this that's of suitable length is going to be a lot more comfortable for extended use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NIKfT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NIKfT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2018-02-21T08:07:33.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6981" CreationDate="2018-02-21T14:49:05.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your idea is certainly workable. However, I think I would quickly grow tired from unscrewing the bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, I would use a number of toggle latches to keep the lid and bottom together:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jJhrl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jJhrl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Toggle latch&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get them in many different sizes and styles, from the relatively light duty type shown above to really heavy duty flight case latches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4834" LastActivityDate="2018-02-21T14:49:05.600" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6987" CreationDate="2018-02-21T14:56:20.710" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend buying the vise screw only because they offer a larger diameter screw. The larger screw means beefier threads and more bearing surface resulting in more clamping force available or less likely to fail. That said, if you are not abusive to the 1-1/2&quot; screw you should have a good amount of clamping force available. I would recommend the Beall Tool threading system if you have a router available. For the screw select straight tight grain wood so the threads cut clean and will have fewer defects and weak spots. when you assemble wax the threads excessively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4817" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2018-02-21T20:02:29.230" LastActivityDate="2018-02-21T20:02:29.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6983" CreationDate="2018-02-21T15:09:51.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The plywood will hold up but the edges will look like plywood sooner than later. Keep in mind that the original wood managed to last 150 years and probably failed from lapse of maintenance. I would recommend using solid wood and my first choice would be white oak. I would avoid Teak, though it has excellent rot resistance, it is an oily wood and would  present challenges to gluing and painting. With proper maintenance you could just as easily use pine or fir. The key to survival is to keep out the water, water kills houses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4817" LastEditorUserId="4817" LastEditDate="2018-02-22T14:43:57.857" LastActivityDate="2018-02-22T14:43:57.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6953" CreationDate="2018-02-22T14:51:04.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can see examples at McMaster-Carr, search on punch and chisel holders. There are several styles shown&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4817" LastActivityDate="2018-02-22T14:51:04.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6997" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6999" CreationDate="2018-02-22T18:12:03.750" Score="2" ViewCount="153" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm staining a table and some stain got through between the boards of the table when I did the other side. Should I pre-condition over the stain that seeped through?  Sand down that stain a bit first and then pre-condition?  Just not pre-condition?  I should note that as soon as we saw that stain (while the stain on the other side was drying) we wiped it off immediately - so it shouldn't have set it much.  Thanks in advance!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EC9CZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EC9CZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4837" LastEditorUserId="4837" LastEditDate="2018-02-22T18:24:38.663" LastActivityDate="2019-06-23T19:01:27.537" Title="Pre-conditioner on seep through stain?" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5084" CreationDate="2018-02-22T21:46:53.547" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in the Pacific Northwest.  If I leave bark on air drying green Douglas Fir slabs inevitably I have bark beetles digging holes and leaving frass (sawdust) behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your round is green, I would worry about beetles.  But if it's already quite dry then I wouldn't be too concerned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3792" LastActivityDate="2018-02-22T21:46:53.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6997" CreationDate="2018-02-23T18:50:22.443" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are staining both sides, the best course of action would be to sand down to bare wood. Otherwise, the old stain will show through the new stain (if you use the same stain again, those will be darker areas).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2018-02-23T18:50:22.443" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7001" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-24T03:42:27.457" Score="1" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to woodworking, but I am starting to dabble in building my own guitars from scratch (just a slab of wood). I have been reading up on things, and it appears a lot of people that build guitars use a product from Behlens called Vinyl Sanding Sealer, and it's been highly recommended as the 'Go-To' product for such an application. My problem is that it's not readily available in my area. I'd have to order some online. I have no issues with doing this, but I'm just wondering: can regular clear coat be used as a sanding sealer, or do I need to stick with a product like the one that Behlens makes? I know there's other brands out there, but Behlens is promoted (and reviewed by guitar builders the world over) as &quot;the cream of the crop.&quot; I've got a couple of cans of Minwax poly (black label aerosol can) laying around at home, and I was wondering if that could be used as a sanding sealer. Thanks for your input!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4842" LastActivityDate="2018-02-24T12:11:47.413" Title="Using aerosol cans for sanding sealer on bare wood" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7001" CreationDate="2018-02-24T12:11:47.413" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm just wondering: can regular clear coat be used as a sanding sealer &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, the first 'sealing' of the wood can be done with any standard finish and in fact the first coat of whatever finish you're using does effectively act the same as something sold as sealer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Sanding sealer&quot; has a secondary function and that is to be easy to sand, and to facilitate this they often have a wax-like component in their mix, e.g. zinc stearate, but this isn't really necessary (or sometimes advisable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Behlens is promoted (and reviewed by guitar builders the world over) as &quot;the cream of the crop.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A point worth noting is that before the current crop of guitar builders their predecessors were doing work of &lt;em&gt;at least&lt;/em&gt; the same standard without access to many modern conveniences and pre-made products, which includes sanding sealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the budget and need for them there are many things one would not wish to be without now that they are around, such as the very high quality modern abrasives (including Abranet) and a few of the modern finishes, but &quot;sanding sealer&quot; is really not one of those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-02-24T12:11:47.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7003" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-25T03:39:37.393" Score="3" ViewCount="612" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a new (new to me, appears very old) whetstone today, and was told generally how to use it. I need to sharpen my son's knife, who at 9 years old has much more woodworking (whittling) experience than I. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, because I don't know the history or source of the whetstone in question, can I still clean it the same as I might any others, without detriment to the stone or to the blade?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to learn as much as I can about sharpening so I don't ruin my son's blade, or worse his experience. I learn from various sources (including &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/4144&quot;&gt;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/4144&lt;/a&gt;) that I should clean a whetstone so that it can function correctly. With all the many ways I can mess up his blade by sharpening poorly, I want to at least make sure the tool I am using is performing adequately. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read that some are dry only, others are water only, others are oil only (the stone in question was treated with gun oil to demonstrate prior to me receiving it), and so I am concerned that dish detergent may not be best for all whetstones. On the other hand, I am not clear on what results of suboptimal whetstone cleaning might actually have on the ability of the tool to function properly, or on the knife itself, if any. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can they all be safely cleaned the same way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4843" LastActivityDate="2018-02-25T09:00:42.440" Title="Can all whetstones be cleaned?" Tags="|sharpening|clean-up|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7003" CreationDate="2018-02-25T09:00:42.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's worth knowing what the stone is made of, because you can expect different performance from different types, and the use may be different, in particular the appropriate cutting lubricant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure I would use any stone dry, although diamond plates (not stones technically) might be best used dry for some applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An old whetstone is probably natural (hard or soft Arkansas), aluminum oxide, or silicon carbide. All these will work well, perhaps best, with a honing oil which is just mineral oil, available from any drugstore (laxatives aisle). That's what the more expensive cans labeled &quot;Honing Oil&quot; will contain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A waterstone is something different and I won't describe it here except to make the perhaps obvious observation that they are lubricated by water rather than oil. In both cases, the lubricant floats away the cutting swarf so it doesn't load the abrasive surface and diminish the stone's cutting capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An oil stone, whether natural or synthetic, can be cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner if clean is what you're after. While it will improve the appearance, perhaps greatly, it doesn't by itself address other important conditions such as flatness and fresh, sharp grit on the surface. For that you need lapping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lapping is essentially grinding the grinding stone itself. This can be done using a diamond lap like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VFsa1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VFsa1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;although these are a bit expensive if you're not going to make frequent use of it. There are other alternatives to be found if you search a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Armed with a lapping plate and ultrasonic cleaner, a set of oil stones will literally last a lifetime. I can't say I'd recommend such a setup to most folks, because they wouldn't use it enough to justify its cost. I happen to use stones frequently for various metalworking purposes so it's a worthwhile investment to me and I already have an ultrasonic cleaner for many other purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even without lapping, a clean stone will likely cut better, and a certain amount of grit renewal can be had by rubbing two bench stones together. Of course you have to have two :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last remark, going back to the type, if it's a hard Arkansas stone it is a great stone, probably the most expensive kind out there, but will sharpen frustratingly slowly. That type is more for refining and polishing an edge that's already been sharpened by a coarser stone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's gray, the stone is probably silicon carbide. If it's orange, it probably aluminum oxide. Silicon carbide cuts faster, but wears more quickly so is harder to keep flat. Aluminum oxide is probably the best all-around choice for starters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2018-02-25T09:00:42.440" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7005" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-25T23:55:56.617" Score="4" ViewCount="192" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've spent much time searching.  Can someone tell me what this bit is used for?  Here are photos:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hOj1a.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hOj1a.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4847" LastActivityDate="2018-02-26T01:49:25.540" Title="What is this drill bit?" Tags="|drill-bits|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7005" CreationDate="2018-02-26T01:17:10.293" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every thread I chase returns to only one item, currently listed on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebay.com/itm/circle-metal-ROBERT-CLARK-co-3-DRILL-BIT-adjustable-fly-cutter-pilot-tool-shop-/112143312579&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;eBay as a Roberts Company 3 bit fly cutter with pilot&lt;/a&gt;. The one on eBay has a solid rod in place of the drill bit, but that's trivial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All indications are that it's designed to cut holes in metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W65e4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W65e4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Fly cutter&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one in the photo may have a taper, allowing it to be inserted directly into a matching spindle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2018-02-26T01:17:10.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7008" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-26T02:15:47.637" Score="3" ViewCount="3872" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a whetstone that I was given, but it has very shallow dips in its surface; it is no longer level. Can I fix it, or should I just get a new one? is there a way to level a whetstone again? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4849" LastActivityDate="2018-03-06T22:57:38.147" Title="Can I fix this whetstone?" Tags="|sharpening|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7008" CreationDate="2018-02-26T04:12:25.717" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A whetstone can be leveled by lapping. This is essential grinding the grindstone and must be done with something harder than the stone itself (or perhaps as-hard in certain cases).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A very effective method, that I use myself, is to use a diamond lapping plate like this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VFsa1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VFsa1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;diamond lapping plate&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a setup like this, you can renew your bench stones many, many times, and have like-new performance for many years of frequent use. This treatment not only levels the surface, but exposes fresh grit for renewed cutting effectiveness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But a lapping plate like this is somewhat expensive, so probably not the right option if you don't use stones frequently. There are other less expensive options like using loose silicon carbide grit on plate glass or a cast-iron lapping plate. These take longer and eventually the plate itself needs to be trued up because it is partially ground away itself during the process. If you search on &quot;lapping bench stones&quot; you'll find a lot of information on the other options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cheapest option is probably to buy a new stone, which you can get for about $7. I've had good luck with &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B003Y3BMAW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this &quot;Bora&quot; brand&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do, you might want to pick up some &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001B2RG1C&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mineral oil&lt;/a&gt; as well. It's cheap and is a very effective lubricant for sharpening on synthetic stones. The stone may come saturated with it; if not you should do that before using it to keep it from clogging up and losing its effectiveness sooner than necessary. After that, just use a little on the surface when sharpening, enough to keep the surface wet and float away the swarf and keep it from clogging the stone's pores, a condition known as &lt;em&gt;glazing&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this other recent question for a bit more:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/7003/can-all-whetstones-be-cleaned/7004#7004&quot;&gt;Can all whetstones be cleaned?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastEditorUserId="158" LastEditDate="2018-03-03T12:02:37.663" LastActivityDate="2018-03-03T12:02:37.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7010" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7015" CreationDate="2018-02-26T13:50:25.130" Score="3" ViewCount="7439" Body="&lt;p&gt;After sanding my wood table with sandpaper grit 80, 180 and finally 240, I applied a first layer of a mixture of 25% turpentine and 75% raw linseed oil, then two layers of 100% raw linseed oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 48 hours the table shows no signs of drying. I realize that I should have used turpentine or other drying agents on all layers, but it's too late.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do to speed up the drying process? Would sanding it again with a very fine sandpaper (grit 240?) help? Wiping off excess oil with a cloth lightly soaked in turpentine? Adding a layer of beeswax? Any other tip?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4851" LastEditorUserId="4851" LastEditDate="2018-02-26T14:03:19.090" LastActivityDate="2021-03-09T22:34:22.580" Title="Wood table treated with raw linseed oil, how to speed up drying?" Tags="|sanding|boiled-linseed-oil|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7011" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-26T23:27:01.553" Score="2" ViewCount="821" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find many different suggestions for length of time between sharpening, from before and after every whittling session to once every 2-3 years. I assume that many of these suggestions are talking about different applications, tools, and even using terms wrong (honing or stropping vs. sharpening). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to quantify how often I should sharpen a whittling knife?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize the best answer is, 'when it feels dull', but my 9 year old son is doing the whittling and is not yet experienced enough to know the difference. Sharpening is my job, but I don't have any woodworking experience. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to say a certain number of days/months/years, a certain number of minutes/hours of actual woodworking, an approximate number of strokes in the wood, certain number of projects or times per project, a table or multiplier by wood type for increasing or decreasing the sharpening frequency, or some other measuring guideline?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4843" LastActivityDate="2018-02-27T14:12:50.737" Title="How often should I sharpen?" Tags="|sharpening|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7010" CreationDate="2018-02-26T23:47:34.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You really cannot speed up the drying of raw linseed oil - it takes somewhere between a long time and forever to dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is to wipe off as much of the raw linseed oil as you can using rags.  You can try more fine sanding, but the sandpaper will clog up very rapidly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you get to a point where you are satisfied that no more raw linseed oil is coming off, apply multiple coats of boiled linseed oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One common adage is to apply one coat per day for a week, then one coat per week for a month, one coat per month for a year and one coat per year forever.  While this is extreme, it does drive home the point that a boiled linseed oil finish should be maintained regularly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2018-02-26T23:47:34.470" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7008" CreationDate="2018-02-27T05:42:32.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just about any hard, stone-like surface that is fairly flat can generally be used to flatten a whetstone. This includes but is not limited to: other whetstones, bricks, pavers, concrete, flat rocks, sandpaper (or just sand) on a board.... Only your imagination will hold you back. Technique and paying attention to what you want to have happen are the key to success. The surface will need to be somewhere close to flat to begin with but both will naturally average toward flat with lapping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many nuances for improving and tweaking but for most purposes, you can just rub two rocks together and get two flat rocks with the minor caveat that some of these options are better than others. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might consider the conversion of a cheap whetstone (or expensive one if you're feeling lavish) to an efficient flattening stone by cutting a pattern of grooves across the width of the stone with a hacksaw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide it's worth the coin, the wonderfully effective diamond plates or purpose-made flattening stones are an excellent option for those suffering lower back pain due to chronic, persistent thickening of the wallet. Seriously though, not that bad a deal if you wear your stones out regularly enough and/or have a penchant for acquiring every old stone you find at a bargain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is highly recommended and likely necessary to use a liquid to carry away the detritus and keep the dust contained. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had success (with some variance in efficacy) using all of these materials (with the odd exception of the purpose-made stones but I feel comfortable assuming they work great) on newly acquired old stones. However, once I had acquired a couple, I mostly just use other whetstones because of their hardness and wear characteristics as well as the efficiency of flattening two stones at a go.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4327" LastEditorUserId="4327" LastEditDate="2018-03-06T22:57:38.147" LastActivityDate="2018-03-06T22:57:38.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7011" CreationDate="2018-02-27T13:40:21.230" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it possible to quantify how often I should sharpen a whittling knife?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The need to hone depends on the variables:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the knife (the steel, the edge profile, how well it was sharpened previously)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the hardness or abrasive quality&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; of the wood(s) being worked&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the total amount of use&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the nature of the use (any levering or chipping versus only draw-through cuts)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it possible to say a certain number of days/months/years, a certain number of minutes/hours of actual woodworking, an approximate number of strokes in the wood, certain number of projects or times per project, a table or multiplier by wood type for increasing or decreasing the sharpening frequency, or some other measuring guideline?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to maintain the edge to a very high standard (which many whittlers consider an absolute must, for quality of work as well as safety) more frequently than you'd expect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with some better knives some touchup work can be required periodically &lt;em&gt;during&lt;/em&gt; a single whittling session because of how sharp whittling knives, in common with other carving tools, need to be maintained, and because wood is relatively wearing to steel (think cutting cardboard rather than vegetables).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a good knife and working softer, easily cut woods (which I'd suggest should be the case for a child whittler), you may be able to hone only daily, or after each session in other words.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Better news is that if you can learn to get good results by stropping this routine 'resharpening' is the work of just a few moments at best&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, certainly less than a couple of minutes including the time needed to get the equipment out and store it again. As mentioned in a few previous Answers this upkeep can greatly extend the period between actual honing, with knives (which are softer than chisels usually) to perhaps weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some previous Answers for more context and info:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/6097/is-the-paper-test-actually-relevant-to-sharpening-chisels-and-planes/6101#6101&quot;&gt;Is the &amp;quot;paper test&amp;quot; actually relevant to sharpening chisels and planes?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3374/how-can-i-tell-if-wood-turning-lathe-chisels-are-sharp/3377#3377&quot;&gt;How can I tell if wood turning (lathe) chisels are sharp?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4722/when-sharpening-how-do-i-assess-what-grit-to-start-on/4735#4735&quot;&gt;When sharpening, how do I assess what grit to start on?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Not all hard woods are abrasive (most aren't) but the harder they are the more they'll blunt edges. Some softer woods though are surprisingly blunting, e.g. because of tiny amounts of silica, red cedar being one of those despite being only about as hard as cherry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Experienced stroppers are done in 10-20 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-02-27T13:40:21.230" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7010" CreationDate="2018-02-27T14:03:42.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I realize that I should have used turpentine or other drying agents&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turpentine doesn't really promote the drying of linseed oil despite many references to the contrary. In a woodworking context what it does is thin the mixture so that less oil is actually applied, and that obviously dries more quickly than more oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do to speed up the drying process? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Provide plenty of air for the linseed oil to react with. Linseed oil 'dries' by oxidation and it needs air to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Higher temperatures help quite a bit too, but the main thing is to ensure there's plenty of moving air going over the table. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you do nothing to the table but give it plenty of air the surface should be reasonably 'dry' in about a week (assuming all excess was wiped away after every coat as should be done). But expect it to take many months to be more fully cured. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would sanding it again with a very fine sandpaper (grit 240?) help? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll probably clog the sandpaper fairly quickly but sanding will remove oil-saturated wood and what's left in the surface will dry more quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Wiping off excess oil with a cloth lightly soaked in turpentine? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes again this will remove some oil from the table and what's left will then dry faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Adding a layer of beeswax? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. This will slow the curing of the oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with removing some of the oil is that you still need to oil further to give the table a proper finish. In my experience four full-strength coats of linseed oil are the bare minimum needed for a decent finish, and 7-10 is usually much better. With boiled linseed oil* this process takes as much as two weeks, with raw linseed oil I guess it could take 3-6 months!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Not boiled but instead has metallic drying agents added to speed curing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-02-27T14:03:42.713" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7011" CreationDate="2018-02-27T14:12:50.737" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly, as you seem to suspect, there is no way to quantify this except by learning through experience on a given tool/wood species/usage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some woodworking tools used on certain woods can last for tens of hours of continuous cutting (mostly this would be with tungsten carbide or diamond power tool blades), whereas others like woodturning tools need sharpening after just a few minutes of use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If in doubt, sharpen more often than you think you need to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2018-02-27T14:12:50.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7017" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-27T14:39:44.867" Score="0" ViewCount="330" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using to bore holes in hackle berry tree stump. Used, old, spade bit paid 75 cents for one time use&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4856" LastActivityDate="2018-03-04T08:06:26.217" Title="Can I use various grits of sandpaper to sharpen an old dull spade bit / bought for .75 for 1 time use" Tags="|drill-bits|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7008" CreationDate="2018-02-27T14:51:32.040" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;it is no longer level. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth mentioning right at the outset that a stone that is curved along its length is still usable as-is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honing stones/whetstones don't have to be flat to provide a suitable sharpening surface for all tasks. Certain honing or whetting jobs &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; require a flat surface (e.g. working on the unbeveled side of most woodworking tools, which generally need to remain dead flat) but honing the bevels of any tool, including knives, chisels and plane irons, can effectively be done on a curved surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is precisely why many old stones are found profoundly hollowed or 'dished' in the centre in the first place — they continued to be used over time after becoming worn in the centre from use, and the hollow just becomes deeper and deeper over time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;should I just get a new one? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you can't use the stone as it is, totally up to you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be aware if you do want to flatten it the type of stone it is makes a &lt;em&gt;massive&lt;/em&gt; difference in how easily flattening can be done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certain natural stones traditionally used with oil, and many artificial oilstones, are very hard indeed so they are resistant to abrasion to say the least. This is a great thing as far as use goes, because they tend to dish very very slowly in use (and if used carefully not really at all, even over many decades), but this is not your friend if you want to dress such a stone back to flat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand certain natural stones traditionally used with water, and many artificial waterstones, are quite soft to very soft and these are very easy to re-flatten. Which is good as they need it often, sometimes daily, even with normal amounts of use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously in addition to the hardness or toughness of the stone the amount of dishing is a big factor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/46nGY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/46nGY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stone on the left here would probably require a great deal more work to put right than the one on the right!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in summary, the labour necessary to get the stone back to flat might be considerable, or it might be not much at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;is there a way to level a whetstone again? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your stone sounds like it's dished on both faces but worth noting for future searchers that every stone has two faces and two sides, and it's very uncommon to see all three of the other long surfaces of a stone dished in addition to the arbitrary top face. Sometimes simply flipping a stone over can give the owner a flat surface with no effort expended! If both faces are dished as sometimes seen the long sides can be used if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do want or need to flatten you can use a wide range of abrasives, or abrasive surfaces, to dress or lap the surface of whetstones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A non-inclusive list of things people have used include:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the back of ceramic tiles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the flat side of old grindstones&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a flattish spot on a concrete surface (pavement, driveway, even a wall)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the side of a concrete block&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a brick&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;another whetstone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;abrasive powder&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; and water, usually on a glass or stone surface&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;abrasive papers, films and cloths&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;diamond plates&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;diamond powder, suspension or paste on a metal plate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;belt sanders&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process generally is just to rub the stone back and forth, sometimes in circles, until the high spots have been worn off and the stone has become flat again. Sometimes this is done dry, sometimes using water to flush away waste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously this goes much more quickly if the abrasive being used is very hard and coarse, so for this reason if your stone is a harder type and you have much material to remove I would recommend you use coarse silicon carbide powder (80 grit or coarser). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But that said you can do the work on concrete if you have to. I've done it myself a couple of times and while it takes a long time it does eventually get the job done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Usually silicon carbide, but even sand can work albeit much more slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Be extremely careful of the dust generated if you try to flatten any type of stone, but especially natural stones, with a belt sander. Some stones contain silica and fine silica particles are very hazardous to breathe in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2018-03-03T18:50:11.110" LastActivityDate="2018-03-03T18:50:11.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7017" CreationDate="2018-02-27T15:11:57.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd use a file rather than sandpaper.  You won't be able to wrap the sandpaper round a block, and free-form sandpaper will just mould to the contours of the surface (rather than giving nice planar surfaces).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are desperate, you could wrap the sandpaper round some sort of former, and use it as a make-shift file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1646" LastEditorUserId="1646" LastEditDate="2018-02-28T09:06:47.393" LastActivityDate="2018-02-28T09:06:47.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7021" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-27T20:37:37.657" Score="2" ViewCount="563" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to build a Matthias Wandel style blower dust collector. However, 1/3hp is the most powerful motor I could find, from a furnace blower. How much air movement can I expect to get from this thing, or how can I calculate this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4859" LastActivityDate="2018-05-25T19:25:56.153" Title="What kind of cfm can I get out of a 1/3 hp motor?" Tags="|dust-collection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7017" CreationDate="2018-02-27T22:04:28.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you could use sandpaper to sharpen a spade bit. You'd need to attach it to a backer board sized to fit between the spurs and the lip (see the picture below identifying parts of a spade bit). The backer board could be wood or plywood or MDF -- anything with a flat surface sized to fit between the spur and lip. Then you'd set about sharpening, working your way through progressive grits, trying to maintain a consistent angle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a little bit of cleverness, you could probably build a jig for this to help maintain the consistent angle. Or you could just eyeball it. But as you can see, this is a lot of effort to go through to sharpen a bit for a single use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if you don't already have the materials on hand (sand paper, scraps of wood, some means to fasten sandpaper to the wood -- glue or tape? -- etc.), it's probably cheaper just to buy a new spade bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you might try to pick up a set of needle files, and use those to sharpen the bit. You can find a cheap set for $4-$12 USD at various places online. But again, I'm not confident these cheap needle files will last any longer than a single sharpening. And even if they do, a new spade bit is going to be cheaper. The needle files only make sense if you plan on sharpening it over and over (and in that case, you'd probably want a nicer set of files anyway).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qm2TY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qm2TY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Parts of a spade bit&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Picture credit: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wonkeedonkeetools.co.uk/spade-bits/what-are-the-parts-of-a-spade-bit/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wonkee Donkey Tools&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2018-02-27T22:04:28.907" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6819" CreationDate="2018-02-27T22:58:40.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I came across a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yankodesign.com/2011/05/26/ancient-puzzle-meets-modern-table/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;similar design&lt;/a&gt; recently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q5h6a.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q5h6a.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pictures on that site show (as @Graphus mentioned) that the 3 &quot;legs&quot; are all at right angles to each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4862" LastActivityDate="2018-02-27T22:58:40.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7024" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-28T00:19:54.370" Score="3" ViewCount="198" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to determine the smallest diameter of log that I can use on my new &quot;used&quot; LT40 (safely).  I guess I'm trying to find the board feet yield for different size logs, so that I know whether or not they are worth milling or not. Specifically, I need fence rails - and posts.  I'm new to this woodworking/milling &quot;hobby&quot;.  Any assistance or suggestions would be incredibly appreciated! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EQS13.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EQS13.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4863" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2018-02-28T02:20:46.253" LastActivityDate="2018-06-28T15:56:06.100" Title="Woodmizer LT40 - smallest diameter of log?" Tags="|lumber|milling|making-lumber|board-materials|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7025" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7033" CreationDate="2018-02-28T05:45:45.407" Score="3" ViewCount="183" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a piece of plywood 2 ft. long and 1ft. wide. I am making a wall rack using brackets. But the problem is I don't know what should be the ratio of the breadth of plywood by the bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently, it is 2:1, that is my plywood is 1 ft. and the brackets are 6 inches.&#xA;Is this safe to use, or there's some ratio for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iFdeW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iFdeW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xRoci.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xRoci.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4800" LastActivityDate="2018-03-02T02:52:16.820" Title="How long the bracket should be with respect to the plywood?" Tags="|joinery|plywood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7025" CreationDate="2018-02-28T14:09:05.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The restraints on the bracket are the load rating of the bracket. That rating is assuming that the load is centered over the leg of the bracket. Wider shelves move the load center further out from the wall. The concerns of the amount of the shelf that extends beyond the bracket is a material property of the shelf material. A 1/4&quot; steel shelf could handle a much longer overhang than a 1/4&quot; styrofoam (ridiculous I know) shelf would support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4817" LastActivityDate="2018-02-28T14:09:05.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7024" CreationDate="2018-02-28T14:18:51.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may be obvious but the larger the log the more usable lumber returned. Since the lumber should be sawn to avoid capturing the pith that will limit log size somewhat. Time is the main factor. Loading a log that yields 4 1x6 boards takes more time to fell, haul, load and saw than the boards are worth. If time is casual then cutting posts from the small logs may be worthwhile if you're just killing time anyway. If you had to charge someone to cut their posts they couldn't afford them for all the time you had invested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4817" LastActivityDate="2018-02-28T14:18:51.343" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7029" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-28T19:51:03.237" Score="2" ViewCount="3030" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a very old (approx 200 years) white-oak that is going to be cut down in the next few months. There is a mobile mill that is going to come out and help me cut it in to boards. I will likely end up with a variety of 1-in and 2-in boards that are between 6 inches and 24 inches wide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware that I don't want to start using these for woodworking projects immediately, but where and how should I store/dry them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a shed that serves as my shop and it would be possible to store some of the wood in there. Is stacking the wood on blocks (to keep it off the ground) and covering with a tarp a reasonable answer? How should I properly space the wood while it dries? How long does it need to dry before I can use it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1565" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T04:41:22.203" Title="How to store/dry freshly cut lumber (white oak)" Tags="|green-wood|storage|wood-drying|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6819" CreationDate="2018-03-01T04:51:45.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The legs must be perpendicular to each other avoid any 'diamonding'. See:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ECzrs.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ECzrs.png&quot; alt=&quot;Diamonding of the intersection&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is only at 90 degrees the intersection will maintain squareness. You can form your caltrop this way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xLa1N.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xLa1N.png&quot; alt=&quot;caltrop&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think to to achieve squareness to each other and shift or 'choke' the intersection closer or further from the middle point you must 'taper' the overall geometry. I believe that is why the circumference of the bottom is smaller than the circumference of the glass in your example. It also may explain the broken lines to help disguise this fact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4212" LastEditorUserId="4212" LastEditDate="2018-03-01T05:02:05.787" LastActivityDate="2018-03-01T05:02:05.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7029" CreationDate="2018-03-01T12:41:09.477" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How long does it need to dry before I can use it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short answer is, until it's dry enough to use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideal moisture level for seasoned wood is dependent on how it'll be used, dried wood for interior furniture you would usually want at a much lower MC than if you intend to use it for a pergola or a garden table that will be stored outdoors. And of course some work can be done with the wood actually green. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you are intending to season, drying time varies with the moisture level you start with (how much sap is in the tree varies across the seasons), local weather, storage conditions and the thickness of the boards. So, as usual, it depends! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you will read an oft-repeated rule of thumb for drying is &quot;a year per inch of thickness&quot; and while this is a gross simplification* it does give a good idea of how patient you have to be when air-drying wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*A note for future readers, this is also the rough figure for hardwoods specifically as softwoods generally dry more quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-03-01T12:41:09.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7029" CreationDate="2018-03-01T15:24:17.437" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Seal the ends as wood loses moisture from the ends faster than the face. You are trying to lower moisture throughout the wood evenly. Latex paint is a cheap effective sealer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pick a location with good airflow; you want the wood to dry and not rot. Outside is fine but you will need to protect it from the weather.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sticker and stack. upon a base that will keep the bottom layer off the ground by 6 inches and support the boards every 12-16 inches. Use stickers (dry 1x1's are good) and stack the boards placing stickers directly over the base supports the whole way up. leave space between boards in each layer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Place weight over the top boards again directly over the stickers. This weight helps constrain the boards as they dry to lessen warping. The stack provides weight for the boards on the bottom, but the top boards need weight as well. You can also band the stack together with plastic strapping.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cover the stack. The stack needs a roof to keep weather away (if outside). Do not wrap in plastic as that will block the much needed air flow.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wait. Air drying is easy and cheap but slow. Outside at least a full year, inside at least 6 months with enhanced ventilation. You should reach a moisture content of 10-12%&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Optional: If for furniture/conditioned space use and you don't live in the arid Southwest, you will want to kiln dry to get to a 6-7% moisture content.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4817" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T04:41:22.203" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T04:41:22.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7025" CreationDate="2018-03-02T02:52:16.820" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that you are acquiring brackets that are strong enough and stiff enough to carry the loads, the question of how long brackets need to be is a good one (though not really a woodworking question).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One consideration is whether you intend to simply place the shelf on the bracket and let gravity keep it in place.  If that is the case, your bracket should extend nearly the full depth if the shelf to remove any chance of a heavy load (e.g. you hanging from it by your finger-tips) causing the shelf to tip forward and spilling its contents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more practical approach would be to get a bracket having a top arm about 3/4 of the shelf depth, and screw the shelf to the bracket.  If the bracket has more than one hole and you want to use fewer than the full complement of screws, it is imperative that you use the hole nearest to the wall just to avoid the calamity of too much load near the front edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as attaching the bracket to the wall, it is best not to skip any of the holes, but the most important one is the top one, again to withstand excessive moment causing the shelf and bracket to fail.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2018-03-02T02:52:16.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5304" CreationDate="2018-03-02T19:56:08.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After getting general confirmation from the answers that others provided here, here's what I did to actually size the bookcase. And after going though the low and high points of our year's humidity cycle, I'm satisfied with the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 1: Identify the amount of wood movement expected&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This first requires identifying the wood in question (solid oak), and the expected range of humidity swings in the area. I searched for something like &quot;moisture content of interior woodwork on usda maps&quot;, and found &lt;a href=&quot;http://workshoppages.com/WS/Articles/USDA-Moisture-Maps-Interior-Woodwork.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this chart&lt;/a&gt;. From that I was able to estimate a 5% swing between the extremes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But how much movement does that mean? In a search for something like &quot;wood movement oak&quot; I found this &lt;a href=&quot;http://workshoppages.com/WS/Articles/Wood-Movement-Charts.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wood Movement Chart&lt;/a&gt;, where you can see that 12 inches of red oak will move 0.9&quot; radially to 0.22&quot; tangentially across a 5% relative humidity range. Since my dimension was only about 9 inches, I only need to allow for 3/4 of that, and I'll assume I chose lumber really badly so will get the larger movement. So that means my shelves' depth will move by up to 3/16&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 2: Figure out where my lumber is right now&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was able to use an old moisture meter and take a reading of my lumber's moisture content. This old meter only reports a number on an analog readout, and you need to then adjust that number per a correction table. But it turns out that red oak is a direct mapping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately I lost my notes on exactly where I was. I think it was about 1/3 of the way through the humidity range I expect to see, nearer the low end. So that would mean I could expect up to 1/16 shrinkage or 1/8 growth. I adjusted my cut according to those calculations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How did it work out?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far so good. Of course real life dictated that as soon as I finished the bookcases, the shelves in question were completely covered. Thus any gap will never be seen. That may be the most important lesson to take away: as much as you want something to be perfect, it's worth considering how visible it will really be, and err on the side of whatever can't make your project fall apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it's worth noting that my calculations here are very much worst case for my design. Since it has some solid lumber in the sides as well, those could effectively cut the depth of the shelves by another couple inches. So I may have overcompensated in multiple ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless, I'm happy with the result, and so is my wife, and that's what matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="485" LastActivityDate="2018-03-02T19:56:08.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1638" CreationDate="2018-03-03T02:34:50.537" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming the table top is stiff enough by itself, concealed steel posts into which the legs socket might work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a more involved idea, assuming your using thick, solid legs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rip each leg into two halves, route a groove down the center of each, and then glue them back together, creating a 'tube'.  Weld a long nut to a plate inset into the top, and then use threaded rod down through the leg with a nut and thick washer to cinch the leg up against the table top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the leg is round, you could just use a threaded post and socket to screw it onto the bottom of the table.  I don't know how sturdy that would be over time, but...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just some ideas!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4876" LastActivityDate="2018-03-03T02:34:50.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7017" CreationDate="2018-03-04T07:02:26.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can sharpen just fine with sandpaper wrapped around or on just about anything flat and firm. Drilling implements are quite forgiving if you don't care much for the cleanliness of the bore. There is a fair range of sharpness and form that will still effectively poke a hole in wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4327" LastEditorUserId="4327" LastEditDate="2018-03-04T08:06:26.217" LastActivityDate="2018-03-04T08:06:26.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7037" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7038" CreationDate="2018-03-05T14:18:34.767" Score="1" ViewCount="192" Body="&lt;p&gt;My router has countersunk holes in its base. What am I supposed to attach between the bit and the base?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4884" LastActivityDate="2018-03-05T15:43:31.190" Title="Why does my router have countersunk holes on its bottom plate?" Tags="|router|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7037" CreationDate="2018-03-05T15:43:31.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The large countersink that surrounds the bit is for guide bushings for template work. The smaller holes are probably for the auxiliary fence attachment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4817" LastActivityDate="2018-03-05T15:43:31.190" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7039" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-06T05:28:29.607" Score="3" ViewCount="787" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to balance aesthetics and strength for a craftsman-style tusked tenon table frame. Are there rules of thumb to determine how close to the leg corner an apron should be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(as a preamble, I should mention I'm working with construction grade lumber)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A tenon within a tenon&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The particular construction I'm shooting for has one tenon passing through another tenon. And I feel this might require larger margins around mortises to prevent splitting failures in the leg's pommel (i.e. the upper part).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a visual reference, I am trying to lay out the mortises in the piece (D) from the following picture, and I would like to know how to pick safe lengths for X, Y, Z (in green):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kw4qW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kw4qW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;leg assembly&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For assembling, piece (C) goes through the leg first, intersected by the other tenon piece (B), and finally locked in with one tusk on each leg. I am planning on chamfering the part of (C) which protrudes on the outer side of the leg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My personal opinion is that it looks best if the mortises are off-center relative to the leg, closest to the outermost corner of the leg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Additional details on the objective&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The assembly plan above is accompanied with a FRONT+SIDE view diagram where all mortises appear to go through the center (i.e. not offset), as well as a picture where they clearly are offset. Those discrepancies and oversights seem to be par for the course in most of the project-books I've looked at this far. Is this only a matter of personal taste?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to to something like the plan, without the lower shelf. In the absence of the shelf and lower rail, the &quot;meat&quot; (Z) between the top of the leg and the top of the mortises becomes more important. I'm doing this in thick pine stock (aprons are long 1.5&quot;x3.5&quot;, and legs are roughly 3&quot;x3&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S8frgm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S8frgm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;front and side views&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yw0ZIm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yw0ZIm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;full view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most other table plans I've seen place the outside face of the aprons very close, maybe 1/8&quot;, from the leg's corner (which places the mortises a third of the stock further inwards). But that might be a safe layout only for a hardwood leg. I can't assess from my limited experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;References&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Got the project description from this book: &lt;em&gt;&quot;Tables you can customize. Ernie Conover. published by Popular Woodworking Books. October 1995. ISBN: 1-55870-397-7.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2018-03-06T09:36:23.797" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T20:48:42.493" Title="What is the minimal spacing between edge of leg pommel and mortise and tenon apron (intersected by tusk tenon)" Tags="|joinery|furniture|design|table-making|mortise-and-tenon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7039" CreationDate="2018-03-06T21:15:26.780" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no magic ratio to grab and be done with. I'm not aware of a set of 'rules of thumb' that apply universally. It depends on wood selection and maintaining the joints when they start to loosen and on the abuse the table will suffer, at the hands of users less inclined to be gentle (six-year-old boys come to mind). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The strength of the wood in 'area z' comes not only from the height, from the leg top to top of the mortise, but also from the width of the mortise (how much 'roof' there is over the mortise), how long the 'roof' is and how much rocking the joint will be subjected to. The joints can be smaller and lighter if you leave the bottom shelf since the bottom shelf secures the bottom of the leg, thus protecting more than a table built without the bottom shelf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, I think for your purposes here, you can take a great deal of wisdom from folks who have travel this path before you - not just from the makers of tables but also from the makers of chairs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an oversimplification, chair joints suffer from more abuse than table joints due to having direct contact with the bulk of the weight of a sitter. People tilt the chairs, stand on them, stack them, etc. and the chair often has less material than a table to boot, so take a look a chairs, in particular side chairs (the have less mass then arm chairs). (Yes, stools count but chairs have much heavier use.) I would add the history of the chair is full of designs where elegance trumped strength. The curved sabre-like legs of Sheraton period chairs come to mind - the grain of the leg is short due to the curve and that is where the legs break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the table isn't designed to be taken apart and reassembled, then corner blocks will lend strength by reducing the racking and twisting the joint will take. Needless to say, the joint is the place to use straight knot-less lumber, to avoid failure from short runs of grain giving way. If it is designed to be reassembled, you may find after a period of use, the pins holding the joints may need to be tweaked or replaced due to compression.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given all the above, you would be fine building as the plan suggested. If you feel you want a safety margin, move the mortise away from the edge by 3/4&quot; or 1&quot; from the top and front of the leg, giving values of greater than half an inch for x, y, z. Given the thickness of the leg, the aesthetics of the piece should be unharmed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also as Graphus suggested, you can make the top over-long and pare down later. In fact, you can over-build the whole joint and see how the wear and tear works out and pare down over time, if you are so inclined and willing to do the work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastEditorUserId="111" LastEditDate="2018-03-08T20:48:42.493" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T20:48:42.493" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7041" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-07T00:09:48.687" Score="3" ViewCount="241" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm doing a built-in for a closet. The closet is over the stairs so its front is sloped. I created an L shaped front and shelf from solid maple. The bottom foot or so is up against the wall that I can screw into. The top surface is hovering, supported by the miter (in the photo there is another shelf sitting on it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I originally envisioned that the lower shelf would rest on the sloped wall. It currently is but that may change in the summer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the fronts are 1.5&quot; thick. The shelves are 3/4&quot; thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front is mitered along its top edge and joins the shelf. I used two small pins on the very edges and just glue in between for the miter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the underside, I reinforced the miter (with two square 3&quot;x3&quot;x3/4&quot; pieces at 90 degrees near the sides, plus a long narrower 3'x1&quot;x3/4&quot; piece of pine in between along most of the length of the miter, glued to the top and the front faces).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem I'm not sure how wood movement will affect this structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main front will surely expand by at least 1/2&quot;, more than the shelf will expand inwards. This will cause the shelf to hover. With all the other stuff on top of it, I'm afraid the miter will fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought about attaching the shelf to the front face on the underside with a larger brace, corner, or even metal strip (going 45 between them). But I'm afraid due to the difference in contraction/expansion, the brace itself will force the faces into each other, breaking the miter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm concerned about attached the shelf to the walls for that reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, is my best bet to go with the flow and just reinforce that miter say with smaller metal brackets (so there is less force from the front's expansion). That way the entire structure will rise as one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or should I fight the expansion? For example, I can create 45 degree blocking along the outer edges on the underside of the front. I could then screw those into the wall and screw the front panel into the blocking. That way the front panel will be attached in all four corners&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could also attach the sides that the upper shelf will rest on. If the sides are screwed into the wall, the front face will butt up against them. Would that prevent the front face from moving up? Would the wood bow or warp because the sides are being blocked but the center of the front panel if free to move up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional idea I had was to actually create a 1/2 gap between the bottom part and the top part. The top part can be attached to the walls. Not sure I love this visually. Maybe there's a way to conceal the gap?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wondering if anyone's done anything similar or has any advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nQAQf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nQAQf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Font view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5XMaM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5XMaM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Back view. I glued a piece of ply to the back to constrain the movement and then attached 2 more braces between the top and the ply&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4893" LastEditorUserId="4893" LastEditDate="2018-03-08T15:58:41.920" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T15:58:41.920" Title="Wood movement with L-shaped mitred leaning shelf" Tags="|furniture|wood-movement|cabinetry|miter-joint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7041" CreationDate="2018-03-07T02:03:30.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, if the space is air conditioned, I would not worry about the expansion. The temperature/humidity change will be minimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 1x3 you glued on the back side will help strengthen the miter joint.  If you will have heavy loads (on a shallow shelf?) you could add another layer of 1x3 glued to the back to resist the rotation force between the shelf and front panel at the miter.  It is not clear how long the shelf is but if you secure the sides to the shelf, they will be of great help in keeping the miter square. Do not secure the back of the shelf to the sloped surface, let it float. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless the shelf length is very long or your storing steel weights on the shelf, I would not be too concerned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2018-03-07T02:03:30.073" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7043" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-07T21:58:42.923" Score="6" ViewCount="990" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first time using Danish Oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm putting in a pine ceiling and wanted to finish it with this because I love the look and because, it being a ceiling, I don't have to worry about too much wear and tear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem is: I have about 700 square feet to cover (that is a lot of boards). In order to apply and store them correctly, I need a huge space. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I stack these on top of one another after I apply the oil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A) Apply oil to several boards. &#xA;B) Wait for it to penetrate.&#xA;C) Wipe off excess oil.&#xA;D) Stack and store so I can move on to the next set of boards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's step D that I'm not sure about. Will it damage the finish if I do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other advice is welcome! Thank you all so much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4898" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2018-03-08T16:52:09.597" LastActivityDate="2018-06-05T20:01:09.977" Title="Can I stack wood finished with Danish Oil while it cures?" Tags="|finishing|storage|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6947" CreationDate="2018-03-07T22:03:55.967" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oil and water don't mix. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use an oil based product, you must stay with oil based all the way through. So, you needed to use an oil based poly on top of that oil based stain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm new so I would hate to give you bad information. I'll let the experts chime in on how to fix it now but I would guess that you need to sand off the poly? Or strip it? and then apply an oil based poly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck, it's beautiful wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4898" LastActivityDate="2018-03-07T22:03:55.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1682" CreationDate="2018-03-07T23:58:51.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make it easy on yourself And your health by wearing a properly fitted respirator whenever Any dust or other particles may be generated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't have to see anything for there to be a hazard; &#xA;in fact, the less you see the more likely it is that the particles &#xA;are very small and therefore more dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure anyone else hanging around where you are working &#xA;also wears a respirator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in a city of around 100,000 population in the middle of a windy valley with agricultural activity all around. Lots of dust gets stirred up here.&#xA;It's nearly impossible to know what all is in that dust, but what little I do know is more than enough to make me cautious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the last couple of weeks I have begun wearing a GVS half-mask P100 respirator &#xA;as much of the time as possible because of all the junk in the air everywhere,&#xA;and I don't have any history of breathing problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bugger anyone who thinks I'm daft or being silly. &#xA;I say it's better to look the fool and be healthy than to be sick or dead.&#xA;Admittedly I'm still very self-conscious about where I wear it and too often remove it because of how others might react, but I'm working on that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you see some guy with his snout stuck in a small blue-mauve bowl &#xA;with pleated white panels on the sides, wave hello. &#xA;You should probably be imitating him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4899" LastEditorUserId="4899" LastEditDate="2018-03-08T00:24:39.390" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T00:24:39.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7048" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7050" CreationDate="2018-03-09T20:54:46.433" Score="3" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is the full scenario for any project, have failure every time :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;design 3D model with sketchup &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;measure the size and try to convert it into 2D shapes with some vector applicatins ( like Adobe Illustrator ) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;import the vector into Vectric Aspire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;nest shapes into the sheet &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;re-check then plan several times&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;set the right tool-path and cut the material&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;problem with sizing every time specially on dado cuts and joints&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the problem is switching between these applications , so the human errors is unavoidable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is : are there any applications for doing all these steps with one software . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2913" LastActivityDate="2018-03-09T21:52:35.707" Title="using one application for design and milling wood project with CNC" Tags="|milling|cnc|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6807" CreationDate="2018-03-09T21:06:52.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are places online you can order a custom piece like this if you want. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could even 3D print it out of a metal or other tough material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I don't think that upper lip is doing anything for strength. If you put metal side brackets without any lip and you glue the joints, that can't move. Is it for aesthetic reasons? If so, could you cut something like this out with shears of sheet metal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4893" LastActivityDate="2018-03-09T21:06:52.990" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7048" CreationDate="2018-03-09T21:52:35.707" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would appear that you are agreeable to learning new software. One product pops into my alleged mind when you ask for a &quot;do it all&quot; type of program.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fusion 360 is free for students, hobbyists and for business that produce below a certain level of income (or is it profit) using the software. For the DIY fellows and gals and hobbyists, it is required to renew the license yearly, a minor task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;F360 is capable of creating 3D models, perhaps not as easily as SketchUp but reasonably easy to learn. Dimensioning is a feature incorporated into Fusion 360 as well as parametric modeling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another aspect of F360 is that it is a fully functional CAD/CAM package and you would be able to generate your tool paths directly from your work/models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many resources for learning Fusion 360. Lynda.com provides tutorials and YouTube is loaded with instructional videos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our local library has a license agreement with Lynda.com to allow patrons access to their resources at no cost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've viewed for entertainment purposes a number of YouTube creators who use Fusion 360 to generate tool paths for their CNC wood router with good results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2018-03-09T21:52:35.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7051" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-10T17:50:49.973" Score="1" ViewCount="624" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay I saw another question about bleeding through paint but this is stain so it may have a different solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sanded, used prestain conditioner, and minwax stain on a desk I’m attempting to restore. I noticed after coming down hours after the stain set that there were sticky bubbles of stain that popped up (after I wiped excess off). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thinking I just didn’t wipe enough off, I sanded it back down to Redo the stain, bit after sanding it back down, grabbing a coffee, and getting ready to recoat it, I see the wood is just bleeding. See the photo below &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hI57C.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hI57C.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do before applying my preconditioner and stain to stop the wood from bleeding?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1035" LastActivityDate="2018-03-10T17:50:49.973" Title="Bleeding bubbles through stain" Tags="|finishing|wood|staining|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7052" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-12T01:13:27.073" Score="2" ViewCount="7942" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the minimum length and thickness of a piece of wood to be used on the jointer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4908" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2018-03-12T15:50:58.740" LastActivityDate="2018-03-12T21:45:37.163" Title="Jointer safety, is there a minimum length and thickness?" Tags="|jointer|thickness-planer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7052" CreationDate="2018-03-12T21:45:37.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is the minimum length and thickness of a piece of wood to be used on the jointer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That depends on the jointer, and to some degree on the depth of cut. With respect to length, you want significantly more wood on the infeed or outfeed table than in the space between them. Having plenty of wood on the tables does two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;it helps you keep your hands away from the cutting head&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;it gives you plenty of bearing surface and leverage to keep the work traveling parallel to the tables and resist tipping into the space between the tables&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check your owner's manual for the manufacturer's recommended limit. For the 6&quot; jointers that many of us have in home shops, I don't think I'd be happy jointing a piece shorter than about 12&quot;. If you're jointing short pieces, take light cuts: setting your jointer to remove only a little wood at a time will minimize the width of the opening between the tables, and also reduce the force that the cutter can apply to the work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With respect to thickness, the work should be thick enough that it won't flex as it passes over the cutting head. If the work flexes as it's being cut, it's not really being flattened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have any doubt about whether a piece is long enough or thick enough to be jointed safely, use a different method. A hand plane provides excellent results with little fuss. A router and a straight bit with a bearing or guide bushing and a good straight edge also work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2018-03-12T21:45:37.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7055" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-13T00:52:14.157" Score="2" ViewCount="14440" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I take a piece of plywood that is not square and make it square? I'm new at woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sides are not straight which I can tell by just looking at them How do I cut the wood to make it straight when both sides are not straight cuts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4913" LastEditorUserId="2442" LastEditDate="2018-03-13T13:17:58.993" LastActivityDate="2018-03-15T15:47:25.270" Title="How to cut wood to square it up when both sides are not cut straight?" Tags="|plywood|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7055" CreationDate="2018-03-13T14:03:27.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you have a saw, You will need to mark a straight line along one of the edges. ( I understand you to say that all edges are not straight)&#xA;Cut that line, you now have one straight edge.&#xA;Construct a 3-4-5 triangle off of the straight line. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3-4-5 Triangle - It doesn't matter what units you use it is a matter of proportion. Say the line you just cut is 4 feet long, Measure perpendicular from that line at one end 3 ft. From the other end of the 4 foot edge measure to the end of your 3 foot &quot;line&quot; Adjust the end of your 3 foot line until the measured length is 5 feet. At this point the angle between the 4 foot line and the 3 foot line is 90 degrees. This is easier with 2 tape measures&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mark this line and cut. You now have two straight lines that are square to each other. The other sides can be marked by measuring off of the opposing side to construct a parallel line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4817" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T14:03:27.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7055" CreationDate="2018-03-13T14:03:32.640" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually what I do is I pick a side to use as a base line, and I start measuring and cutting from that reference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, for example, I'm cutting a square I will draw a 90 degree line using the one side as the reference. I then cut that, which would leave me with two sides that are square to each other. I would then repeat the process for the side directly across from my first reference point, using the side I've just cut as a base of reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4210" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T14:03:32.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7058" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-13T18:25:31.210" Score="1" ViewCount="615" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a rectangular box that will act as a floating step. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;9&quot; deep x 7&quot; high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top will be hinged as there will be storage inside, so only one edge of the top will be glued to the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What joints will be best for the sides? Mitered edges with triangular blocks glued on the inside see easiest. Rabbets also seem easy. Will these be strong enough for use as a step? Or should I take the time to do a box joint?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Also, should I rabbet the bottom plate so that part of it is inset into the box? Or will simply screwing/glueing be strong enough?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2236" LastActivityDate="2018-03-14T12:57:59.520" Title="Easiest joints for 3/4&quot; plywood step?" Tags="|joinery|plywood|boxes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6807" CreationDate="2018-03-13T23:01:14.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think your best bet will be to look for &quot;campaign furniture&quot; corners.  A quick search turned up &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.paxtonhardware.com/product/campaign-chest-corners/corners-trim&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; for example.  Though, on re-reading your question, the linked example does not have the extra lip you want, I still think this is the right terminology for the thing you are looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastEditorUserId="600" LastEditDate="2018-03-13T23:07:32.127" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T23:07:32.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7058" CreationDate="2018-03-14T12:57:59.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Easiest&lt;/em&gt; has to be plain butt-jointed; possibly reinforced with a few brads.  There isn't going to be all that much stress on these joints - most of the load is going to be going straight down through the ply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rabbets (rebates to me) will look nicer - depending on how important the appearance is, that may or may not matter.  I don't think rabbeting will make the joint stronger though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding an internal fillet, or using a box-joint will be stronger (as would dowel/biscuit joints), but I don't think you &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; that strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1646" LastActivityDate="2018-03-14T12:57:59.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7055" CreationDate="2018-03-15T15:47:25.270" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/how-to-cut-straight-edge-rough-board/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this method&lt;/a&gt; before to straighten boards.  You make a jig like the one shown.  The jig is used as a reference point to straighten the uneven board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jlAQn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jlAQn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4345" LastActivityDate="2018-03-15T15:47:25.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7062" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7100" CreationDate="2018-03-17T05:45:09.323" Score="5" ViewCount="450" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there an advantage or reason for them to feed in the opposite direction to jointers, router tables, and spindle sanders?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4920" LastEditorUserId="4920" LastEditDate="2018-03-17T13:32:17.430" LastActivityDate="2018-03-26T17:40:53.503" Title="Why do band saws feed left-to-right?" Tags="|band-saw|jointer|router-table|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7063" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7064" CreationDate="2018-03-18T17:50:10.700" Score="3" ViewCount="184" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm designing the leg for a bed loft and was planning on laminating together 4 1x4's of Poplar.  The middle two boards would not go the full length of the leg, so that a 2x6 can slide into it.  This 2x6 would be what forms the length of the bed on each side.  I am wondering if wood glue on the faces of the 1x4's would make it strong enough, or if I should drill a hole through all 4 of them about every foot and glue in a wooden dowel. Would the dowel help or would drilling the hole just hurt the integrity of the boards and create more work for myself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the 2x6 will be running the length of the mattress and supporting most of the weight (along with its parallel one on the other side of the bed, about 7ft long).  Is a 2x6 overkill and would a 1x6 suffice (dropping the legs to be three 1x4's instead)?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TWqRn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TWqRn.png&quot; alt=&quot;Loft leg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4925" LastActivityDate="2018-03-18T20:26:07.997" Title="Laminating Boards For loft Leg" Tags="|glue|strength|dowel|laminating|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7063" CreationDate="2018-03-18T20:26:07.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer the first part of your question, the glue adhesion should be more than adequate to handle the weight from the 2x6.  This is both because the glue is more than strong enough to bind the four pieces together and the weight can easily be carried by the inner 1x4s so no load even has to transfer to the outer ones.  The outer boards are only used to bracket the 2x6 in its slot and to provide additional resistance to having the posts bend from weight at the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regards to the size of the 2x6 vs. 1x6 in all probablility the 1x6 could carry the load, but it is not thick enough to prevent twisting over its length.  The thicker 2x6 provides more than enough strength to support the weight and also is thick enough to avoid twisting which would result in the board not being vertical at the center and providing less support and a really insecure appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other thoughts I have on your design is that you using poplar on the posts but not on the beams?  They may not accept finish the same.  IF you use pine on the beams, why not everywhere? Note that finding clear pine other than in 1&quot; thick pieces is difficult.  I often go to the big box and sort through their 2x12 lumber.  You can often find pieces with no knots over much of its width and I will trim off the knotted portions creating my own 2x? clear stock.  Also, if you intend to glue 4 pieces of poplar note that the edges will not necessarily be flush. You may need a jointer or planer to clean up the outside faces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW.  Drilling holes (say 1/2&quot;d) at the center of the post width would have almost no affect on the strength of the post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2018-03-18T20:26:07.997" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6317" CreationDate="2018-03-19T01:39:30.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't find a MSDS for Hard Top Oil, but I suspect it is probably safe. However not knowing exactly what is in it would make me very unlikely to use it for anything coming in to contact with food - &quot;a mix of prestigious modified natural oils&quot; is not very specific/reassuring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Go To for chopping boards and the like is simple food grade mineral oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mineral oil is FDA approved not only for incidental food contact, but for direct human consumption &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.878&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.878&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://dailymed.nlm.nih.gov/dailymed/drugInfo.cfm?setid=822fd02a-92b0-4010-8bfb-737dba331d54&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://dailymed.nlm.nih.gov/dailymed/drugInfo.cfm?setid=822fd02a-92b0-4010-8bfb-737dba331d54&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use some vegetable oils, but there is a risk of these going rancid over time. There are also some (any sort of nut oil) that you should definitely avoid due the risk of adverse reaction if you or a guest has a nut allergy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As another commenter mentioned, just because something is natural, it doesn't make it safe, and just because something is man-made, doesn't make it unhealthy.  Having the FDA sign off on something is a reasonable indication of its safety, as does having doctors / pharmacists supply it for direct consumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="282" LastActivityDate="2018-03-19T01:39:30.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6017" CreationDate="2018-03-19T15:39:30.970" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Belts joined with a butt joint and taped offer a smoother joint while a lapped joint will tend to have a bump at the joint. The lapped joint tends to be stronger though old belts come apart due to glue failure same as the taped joint does. With the improvements in tape the butt joint is preferable&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4817" LastActivityDate="2018-03-19T15:39:30.970" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7067" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7068" CreationDate="2018-03-21T13:33:12.040" Score="1" ViewCount="308" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made an end grain cutting board for my wife that had various hard woods that were all supposedly food safe.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing some reading and watching videos, I understand that this can vary depending on the type of wood and grain and such, or personal preference.  The woods chosen also have a contrast in various colors, from a lighter blonde look to a dark look.  From Walnut to to Cherry to Oak (I think, it was mostly scrap pieces and hard to remember).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is a good finish that is food safe for a cutting board and for different colors of wood?  The design is random, not a specif detailed design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is this different than using beeswax?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2936" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2018-11-18T18:12:50.303" LastActivityDate="2018-11-18T18:12:50.303" Title="Food Safe Finish for Cutting Board" Tags="|finishing|end-grain|cutting-board|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7067" CreationDate="2018-03-21T18:08:53.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mineral oil is a food safe finish for cutting boards. Though because it is not a drying oil meaning that it will not harden. It also means that the finish can be washed off. This results in proper care including regular reoiling of the cutting board. You don't get the sheen that you would get with beeswax though you do get a deeper penetration into the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4817" LastActivityDate="2018-03-21T18:08:53.360" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7069" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-22T04:01:06.230" Score="1" ViewCount="9598" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some projects coming up for the garden and I want to use some screws with the raised beds. I recently was told certain screws get 'eaten' by the chemical used for treating the lumber. If this is true, what screws will last longest with the treated lumber? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2018-03-30T15:10:41.557" Title="What screw is best with treated lumber?" Tags="|screws|pressure-treated|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7069" CreationDate="2018-03-22T13:42:09.213" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pressure treated lumber is treated with Alkaline Copper Quaternary (ACQ), an environmentally friendly water-based preservative that is free of arsenic and chromium. However, ACQ treated lumber is more corrosive to metal, so the right fastener is key to a safe, long lasting deck, fence or other outdoor project.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When nails are exposed to ACQ, a chemical reaction occurs, which accelerates the corrosion rate of the fastener. In addition, the organic components of ACQ attract water, further increasing corrosion on the fastener.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wood treatment industry recognizes the corrosive nature of ACQ in relation to fastening systems, and recommends hot dipped galvanized or stainless steel nails be used. Hot dipped galvanized nails must meet American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) A153 Class D standards and stainless steel nails should be made from grade 304 or 316, to provide maximum corrosion protection. If screws are used they must be rated for ACQ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(source www.treeisland.com/company/news-events/what-fasteners-work-acq) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4817" LastActivityDate="2018-03-22T13:42:09.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7071" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-22T14:32:33.173" Score="1" ViewCount="123" Body="&lt;p&gt;We just had our huge black oak tree cut down because it was inches from our roofline. Ever since we first bought our house, we had planned on turning it into our dining room table. Being new to woodworking, I wasn't familiar with wind shake (also called ring shake) and just thought that the waviness in the rings would give the slabs more character. Well I had a mutual friend who owns a portable sawmill come out to look at the logs and he gave me the bad news about the wind shake and that the lumber is probably not worth milling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before just cutting all the wood I have into discs and making epoxy or resin supported live edge slabs (my idea of what to do with it short of firewood), what do you all think could be done with this log? Do you think it's worth trying to mill and see what I end up with after it dries or is that route a lost cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have shorter ~3 foot sections, most of them also show signs of separating at the rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the album of the 12 footer: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GNSCD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GNSCD.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4938" LastActivityDate="2018-03-22T15:12:35.777" Title="Is my 44&quot; Diameter 12' Long Black Oak Log with Wind Shake still usable?" Tags="|wood|green-wood|milling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7071" CreationDate="2018-03-22T15:07:31.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What length pieces is it cut to already? I’m not very experienced with this fault, but ... if the wood is nice anyway, and milling is not expensive, I would mill 8’ to 10’ sections into smaller dimension lumber but expect a lot of loss. Orientation during milling is important to optimize the product. In the end you may do best with a lot of selection and laminating portions to rough size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As always, trees that grow near structures are more likely to have nails or other embedments in the lower portions that may damage milling equipment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4939" LastActivityDate="2018-03-22T15:07:31.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7071" CreationDate="2018-03-22T15:12:35.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've not heard the term, although I've seen the results of this problem earlier in my years of cutting firewood. It was welcome then, but that's because the end result is very weak wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodworkingnetwork.com/knowledge-centers/wood-dr/identifying-shake&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Woodworking Network&lt;/a&gt;, wind shake, aka ring shake is bacterial in nature and creates weak areas in the tree rings. It's a separation that runs parallel to the rings, creating sheared segments throughout a substantial portion of the tree. The linked answer also suggests that the bacteria leave behind organic compounds similar to butter which will later (or sooner) create an unpleasant odor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the photos, I would think that you'd not have to wait long after test milling a log. The weakened portions would shear off during the milling or shortly after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the sheared portions would still have value to you, the risk would be lower, but there is still the risk of turning the tree into sawdust and wood scrap if the pieces are unworkable. The planks created by the mill would have to be carefully inspected to ensure strength. If a cut intersects a ring shake location, it would be easily snapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2018-03-22T15:12:35.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7074" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-23T08:01:21.223" Score="1" ViewCount="67" Body="&lt;p&gt;What format should I write my cut list in? Should I add up the total amount of wood, or should I try to pick it up piece by piece?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4284" LastActivityDate="2018-03-23T13:43:22.147" Title="Cut list basics" Tags="|wood|measurement|materials|planning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7074" CreationDate="2018-03-23T13:43:22.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll probably want to do both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You certainly want to separate out your plywood from your solid wood. With your plywood, you can lay things out down to very fine resolution so you can get exactly what you need out of the sheet. Jay Bates has a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6q0JFoIkVJ4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;nice video&lt;/a&gt; detailing his process for this in SketchUp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your solid wood, you'll want to come up with a total estimate of the amount of wood you'll need, sure. And you may want to estimate that assuming a couple different widths of the boards - 4, 5, and 6&quot;, for example. This allows you to quickly know how many pieces of wood you'll need to get at the wood store, as not every wood store always has 6&quot; boards. Once you see the widths of the actual boards at the store, you can correlate that with your estimates. Colin Knecht of WoodWorkWeb explains this in a recent &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VlmdpLSHlE&amp;amp;t=102s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have any special pieces in your project, or any unusually long/wide/big pieces, you'll probably want to list them separately. A single slab for a bookmatched tabletop; or thick, square pieces for legs; or two tall pieces for bookcase sides; etc. Those are pieces you want to make sure you can get out of one board and not have to glue two smaller pieces together. For other parts of your project, if you have to glue two or more pieces together it's usually not a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may wish to also keep a list of all of the pieces of your project which will be visible, so you can ensure you get wood with similar grain and color. For example, you can look at your list and determine you can get pieces A, C, and F out of this one board, and pieces B and D out of a second board. Non-visible pieces can be made out of the remainder, or with a board that doesn't have the same grain or color match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastActivityDate="2018-03-23T13:43:22.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7077" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7079" CreationDate="2018-03-23T17:38:52.733" Score="3" ViewCount="2414" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a flask-style drinking vessel with no stain, finish, or anything. I am wondering if pine will be safe for this? I have heard of pine needle tea, but that's the needles, not the wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.deejayssmokepit.net/Downloads_files/SmokingFlavorChart.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;chart&lt;/a&gt; on woods for smoking meat that says pine will make you sick, but that's if you &lt;em&gt;burn&lt;/em&gt; it. I can't seem to find a definitive answer on drinking/eating off of unfinished pine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1035" LastActivityDate="2018-03-23T20:51:55.457" Title="Will unfinished pine work for an unfinished drinking vessel?" Tags="|pine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7078" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7080" CreationDate="2018-03-23T19:55:10.807" Score="3" ViewCount="1825" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for resources (mostly books) on how to build wooden furniture without glue, nails or screws (preferably with only hand tools). I would like to learn the techniques involved in this as well as to see some examples on how to make simple furniture with only wood joinery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I have not found much, I figured that I am not using the proper terms to search for this information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone point me in the right direction on this? Is there a resource that I could use to start this little research I am doing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4257" LastEditorUserId="4257" LastEditDate="2018-03-23T20:15:59.403" LastActivityDate="2021-10-30T19:08:40.040" Title="Resources for wooden furniture projects without glue, nails or screws" Tags="|joinery|furniture|hand-tools|traditional-techniques|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7077" CreationDate="2018-03-23T20:27:12.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was once told by an instructor as a rule of thumb never to make something that will have food on it that does not bear food of some sort.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was a very general statement, though we were making bread boards and cutting boards at the time and someone asked &quot;what kind of wood&quot; to use, to which he gave a small list, and then someone asked about &quot;turning&quot; a bowl for salad, and that was the instructors response.  This was live and in person and no one famous or published, so I don't a reference for what he said and can't cite it either.&#xA;However, I think that general statement holds true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general for that class, we were told to stay away from softer woods and porous woods as well.  Softer woods will not take a beating with practical use and have a tendency to split over time due to the grains and how close the grains are.  Additionally, with softer woods, with even smaller wear and tear, they will create pockets and microcosms that enable areas for bacteria to grow.  The finish may be fine, but if it starts to split or tear in a certain area or even have a dent, then that could be a resting place for bacteria to start to grow.  The same is true for porous woods.  Porous woods on the other hand may be soft or hard, but will soak up the liquid more easily and possibly create an area where bacteria can grow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good short read on this for cutting boards would be this article.... &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cuttingboard.com/blog/why-some-woods-are-better-than-others-in-the-kitchen/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.cuttingboard.com/blog/why-some-woods-are-better-than-others-in-the-kitchen/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While that is a cutting board, the point the article makes I think make sense in terms of bowls and glasses and other food items.  A couple points that article makes are about the difference of angiosperm and gymnosperm trees, as well as the mechanism in which the tree transports water, medullary rays vs pores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of the above, I tried to make a cutting board out of Cucumber Wood once.  I happened to get a large amount from someone for free and just finished that class and thought it would be nice.  While it was good practice, turns out that cucumber wood is not toxic, though more porous and a softer wood to work with.  So it showed cuts very easily and is not very good for durability nor would it be good for food stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also look at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-allergies-and-toxicity/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wood Database&lt;/a&gt; ( &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-allergies-and-toxicity/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-allergies-and-toxicity/&lt;/a&gt; ) for types of wood to use and what the toxicity is and the impact.&#xA;I think a pine cup or something might be nice practice, and might look or appear nice depending on the art that goes into it.  However, I would not make anything out of pine that I would expect to be used for food.  I was thinking of making a cutting board out of pine and then making a design on it and possibly putting inlays, but the intent would be for decoration, not function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pine, in general is good cheap construction wood.  Grows fast, easy to cut down, strong enough to bear a reasonable load, easy to regrow.  However, Pine is also poisonous to many animals and is an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hunker.com/13428592/which-pine-trees-are-poisonous&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;issue for livestock&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the list of woods for &quot;smoking&quot;, almost all of the woods that are listed as &quot;good&quot; are trees that bear a fruit.  Hickory and Oak, I believe are the only two that don't bear a visible fruit, though Oak produces acorns and some flowers as a fruit, and hickory will produce nuts until much older, and we could split hairs on that and the general rule of thumb.  Which its meant more to make you think &quot;that if the tree produces a fruit that one could eat, the wood from that same tree should be safe enough to hold food&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2936" LastEditorUserId="2936" LastEditDate="2018-03-23T20:51:55.457" LastActivityDate="2018-03-23T20:51:55.457" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7078" CreationDate="2018-03-23T20:41:26.123" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest or most common &amp;quot;buzzword&amp;quot; or term that I have heard in regards to this is Japanese Joinery.  You might also hear Japanese Woodworking, Japanese Carpentry, or the word &amp;quot;traditional&amp;quot; tacked onto those as well (ie - &amp;quot;traditional japanese woodworking&amp;quot;).  All of that might be a good place to start, but &amp;quot;japanese&amp;quot; seems to be the operative word.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Samurai Carpenter's &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC06fO6LNH_AUgjbmqaZRV5Q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube channel&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://samuraicarpenter.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;homepage&lt;/a&gt; talks about what you are referring to.  He doesn't always go into details on his YouTube Channel, but does show off plenty of what he has built in that style.  His homepage has plans, projects, and more to order that you might find helpful.  At the very least, his channel might lead to more information and resources you would find useful for this endeavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also another guy on YouTube, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCPmuIEIsiGkOn7jc043zxZw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chop with Chris&lt;/a&gt;, who does some work like that.  He is also very responsive to comments and emails and might have some additional resources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think some of that stuff looks really cool, so good luck and post back a comment of a link to pictures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the April 2018 issue of Family Handyman had a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.familyhandyman.com/woodworking/built-to-last-viking-long-table/view-all/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;viking table&lt;/a&gt; as its cover story.  This is mostly what you are talking about with a few screws for appearances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The additional terms used are mortise and tenon, which escaped me the other day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also wanted to add Rex Kruger to the list. He has a series of videos of just using hand tools and creating your own tools.  He is a furniture maker, and he has a series of tutorials online, a website, a few books and more.&#xA;Rex Kruger Website has some books that are mostly about wood turning, a bunch of blog articles, and more.  He is also very responsive to his viewers, so watch a video and leave a comment asking for more, or send him an email.  I am sure he has a ton of resources.  Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2936" LastEditorUserId="2936" LastEditDate="2021-10-26T18:16:20.910" LastActivityDate="2021-10-26T18:16:20.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7081" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-23T21:46:25.130" Score="2" ViewCount="3512" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I am no woodworker, but I am someone who has somewhat unrealistic fears of cancer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Earlier this week, I drilled some holes in the back of my computer desk (made of particle board) to run cables through. Small thing, the holes are both a couple of inches wide, but today I read that particleboard dust can be very dangerous, and so now I'm wondering, how bad is particleboard dust to breathe in, if it is just a one-time, short term exposure? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll make sure to be safer in the future in researching what I do before I do it, but I'm just looking for some closure in the meantime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4945" LastEditorUserId="4942" LastEditDate="2018-04-05T12:25:37.127" LastActivityDate="2018-04-05T12:25:37.127" Title="How dangerous is particleboard?" Tags="|sawdust|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7082" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-24T00:20:52.087" Score="1" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am learning about wood-working, and I want to start by building something relatively simple like this to hold a TV. I will be using 2&quot; x 6&quot; wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What particular tools do I need for the joints? It doesn't have to be these miter joints if they're too difficult, but I would like it to have some nice joints. Since I'm starting out, I prefer not using a circular saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LvVKq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LvVKq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2833" LastEditorUserId="4942" LastEditDate="2018-04-05T12:25:52.243" LastActivityDate="2018-04-05T12:25:52.243" Title="Help creating simple wood table?" Tags="|joinery|wood|tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2018-03-26T16:09:28.670" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7081" CreationDate="2018-03-24T03:14:15.670" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The concern with particleboard is that that because of the large amount of urea formaldehyde adhesive used in the product, outgassing of formaldehyde was a big issue. This was quite the issue in mobile homes that used a lot of particleboard in it's construction. Great efforts have been made to reduce the formaldehyde content in many products including particleboard (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sefalabs.com/i4a/pages/index.cfm?pageID=3394&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.sefalabs.com/i4a/pages/index.cfm?pageID=3394&lt;/a&gt;) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All dust is hazardous to your lungs but the dust from particleboard is not more hazardous that other wood products. It's  not like it is beryllium (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.livescience.com/28641-beryllium.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.livescience.com/28641-beryllium.html&lt;/a&gt;). Hazards from dust are cumulative not one time exposure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4817" LastActivityDate="2018-03-24T03:14:15.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7067" CreationDate="2018-03-25T06:31:00.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made one as well and used grape seed oil. It’s working well after 6 months of daily use.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YhRvz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YhRvz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cutting board1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XEso0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XEso0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cutting board2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4953" LastEditorUserId="4953" LastEditDate="2018-06-27T03:48:13.740" LastActivityDate="2018-06-27T03:48:13.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7085" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-25T07:05:50.837" Score="2" ViewCount="570" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just acquired a 42” diameter solid pine kitchen table. I would like to cut and hinge each side parallel to the center cut where the leaf extension goes. It seems pretty straightforward but haven’t found any DIY plans to make this conversion. Photo1 is what I would like to achieve. Table is same style, except it has a center leaf insert, when installed, it appears as in photo2. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Addition photos of the underside of the table. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a65qs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a65qs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;underside1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y0W2X.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y0W2X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;underside2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What’s the best way to go about converting this table to a fold-down on both sides, while preserving the ability to install leaf. Thanks. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tHXvg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tHXvg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fold-down2sides&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PFoHG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PFoHG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;with leaf extensions&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4953" LastEditorUserId="4953" LastEditDate="2018-04-03T21:48:51.873" LastActivityDate="2019-11-24T17:01:10.167" Title="Repurposing Round Dining Table" Tags="|technique|joinery|furniture|design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7086" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-25T14:26:59.827" Score="2" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was grinding and sanding this wooden handle for a day or two lately and I nearly finished it, but I noticed, that I filed off a bit too much at the part, where the axe head goes on. I just took a picture, how does it look and I'm asking for experts now, is it still okay to make a slot for the wedge and it will be hung safe and properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ceU54.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ceU54.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3974" LastActivityDate="2018-03-26T18:10:02.103" Title="Good wooden handle to hung an axe?" Tags="|hand-tools|handle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7088" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-25T19:01:36.493" Score="5" ViewCount="4547" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a few instances where my glued up panels, breadboards etc. have had gaps open up at the edges. This happens a few days or weeks after gluing. The gaps have all stopped at a certain point and the join remains strong, but it looks terrible. I'm hoping to start selling soon and I can't afford for things to fail like that. It seems that the wood is moving after it gets to its new environment and is able to overcome the strength of the glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has happened with multiple woods and multiple glue bottles so I know they aren't problems. I tried using splines to reinforce the joint but it still failed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To mate the edges to be joined I start with a straight edge off the jointer, thicknesser, or table saw and then hand plane it smooth and flat. I am pretty certain the quality of the mating surfaces at this stage is not a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then usually put a very slight concavity in the surface, both across its width and its length. I was taught to do this as it supposedly helps the ends and sides of the joint that are exposed to air and moisture mate properly. I then glue with PVA and clamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible causes that have occurred to me are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1 - The moisture content of the wood just isn't close enough to what it will reach in the environment it goes into.&lt;/strong&gt; This seems like a big issue but one that is hard to avoid. The area I live in is fairly humid and my workshop is not well insulated or heated. The pieces mostly have gone into a very modern house which feels very dry which can't help. It seems unlikely to me that commercial furniture is made in a climate controlled environment though. Do I need to relocate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2 - The concavity I put into the mating surfaces might need to be more extreme.&lt;/strong&gt; Since the joint is pulling apart where it should be tightest it seems unlikely to me that the concavity is causing the problem. Rather, it seems that I might be making the concavity too subtle. Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3 - I might need to use a different kind of glue.&lt;/strong&gt; It is often said that any of the major woodworking glues are stronger than the wood itself but that isn't my experience; these failures are right along the glue line. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done some testing where I glue two bits of wood together, leave it overnight, then break it apart with a hammer. The break would generally be fairly clean with only a bit of splintered wood. This would suggest a glue issue to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps there is something I am doing wrong but I can't imagine what there is to mess up with PVA. I always leave it to cure overnight. Maybe I need to switch to something stronger, like epoxy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4 - Clamp strength.&lt;/strong&gt; I've read about glue starvation from excessive clamping pressure but I've also read that it is a myth. I would describe my clamping as &quot;pretty damn tight&quot;. Maybe I need to either increase or decrease my clamping pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;5 - Reinforcement.&lt;/strong&gt; I know a butt joint is supposed to be strong enough on its own but maybe there is something I can do to really pin the joints together at the ends? Splines didn't work but then I suspect they may only help with alignment and may not give the joint any extra strength. Is there some way to mechanically lock the ends of a but joint together that is invisible or that is easy to hide? If there is a method I suspect it would only work on thicker boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3343" LastEditorUserId="3343" LastEditDate="2018-03-26T15:28:06.513" LastActivityDate="2018-03-26T16:08:48.463" Title="Edge joint failure - what is the cause?" Tags="|joinery|glue|butt-joint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7089" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7091" CreationDate="2018-03-25T22:13:28.113" Score="4" ViewCount="2660" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always thought that this wasn't done, because the screw would likely blow out, unless it's perfectly aligned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if there's a name for this technique (using screws to reinforce a butt joint), and if there's a jig or technique for drilling the holes? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, cross-sectional view:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;screw               __   _______________ &#xA;[\\\\\\&amp;gt;   ---&amp;gt;    |  | |_______________  board 2&#xA;                   |  |&#xA;                   |  |&#xA;                  board 1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw some guy doing this by hand (with no jig or drill press) in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ObCLdiD2w5U&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the second half of this video&lt;/a&gt;.  Seems a little risky.  Is this common?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found something called a doweling jig, seems like it would work if used on &lt;code&gt;board 2&lt;/code&gt;, but I don't think it would hold them both in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4582" LastActivityDate="2018-03-26T02:30:38.717" Title="What is it called when you use screws with a butt joint?" Tags="|joinery|butt-joint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7089" CreationDate="2018-03-25T23:06:28.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A pocket drill jig will allow you to drill holes at an angle to board 2 into board 2 and engaging board 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BFyX3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BFyX3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;pocket drill jig&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The jig guides the drill into the work, which would otherwise skip off due to the extreme angle and also provides for a clean &quot;pluggable&quot; hole if desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is mostly the opposite of what you ask, but a doweling jig is the answer to your question. Screwing into end grain is not going to provide a very strong joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2018-03-25T23:06:28.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7089" CreationDate="2018-03-26T02:30:38.717" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In that particular video, the guy is working with particle board.  There is no grain structure in particle board (or MDF for that matter), so there really isn't a 'good' way to make a butt joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lqAzb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lqAzb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The screws that are used in most particle board construction are specialty 'confimat' screw (as listed &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0031TGSB2&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here on Amazon&lt;/a&gt;).  These screws have very wide threads and are better in these types of material than more traditional screws.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Standard dowels would provide a much stronger joint.  The dowel forms a strong mechanical bond, and glue will hold the dowel in much tighter than the threads will hold a screw.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/joinery/dowel&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a good overview article on using dowels&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CYGF5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CYGF5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to use a cross dowel.  These are often used for knockdown furniture, as it can be removed and reused with little if any loss of strength.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodpeck.com/crossdoweljig.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is jig that will allow both holes necessary for the cross dowel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2018-03-26T02:30:38.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7092" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-26T05:40:25.920" Score="0" ViewCount="3877" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am cutting out a hole in my old oak hardwood floor where I am installing a laundry chute. I'm a newbie at woodworking and power tools so bear with me. The one tool I have that I think would work best is my jigsaw. But I must not have the right blade because it's just killing me trying to get it to cut through this wood floor. Any help/suggestions/ideas would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4958" LastActivityDate="2018-03-26T15:58:31.610" Title="What is the best tool for cutting into a hardwood floor?" Tags="|technique|tool-selection|cutting|jigsaw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7082" CreationDate="2018-03-26T07:52:33.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although this table looks simple, it's actually anything but. There must be some kind of reinforcement of those joints or some clever method used for hidden joints or fixings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this previous question about the same table:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1453/what-might-be-stronger-than-a-miter-but-still-look-like-a-miter-joint/1454#1454&quot;&gt;What might be stronger than a miter but still look like a miter joint?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2018-03-26T07:52:33.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7088" CreationDate="2018-03-26T10:00:57.647" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Professional woodworker here. I have to admit when I first answered this, I was thinking about face to face wood joints (rather than end to face) so most of this answer is talking about that BUT a lot of these points apply to all types of glued joints:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a lot to go over here so I'll cover each point in turn:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1 - Moisture content.&lt;/strong&gt; This can certainly affect glue joints. You are correct that in professional joinery/furniture etc. workshops, humidity is often (tightly) controlled. If the moisture content of the wood or the air is off, or the curing environment is not warm enough then this can lead to problems. Particularly, if it's too cold then PVA will cure as a frosty white colour instead of more clear. This can affect joint strength. If you have two different pieces which you are gluing together and they differ in moisture content (or if they are different species or very different sizes and are likely to lose/gain moisture at very different rates) then this can also cause high relative movement which can cause a joint to fail. If environmental differences are unavoidable then you'll want to let the timber acclimatise as gradually as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2 - Concave faces.&lt;/strong&gt; I've never heard of this and it shouldn't be necessary. I've got an oak breadboard sat on my desk right now that was glued up straight off of our thicknesser (jointer) and the joints are fine, no gaps have formed. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/better-glue-joints-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Popular Woodworking&quot;&gt;This article&lt;/a&gt; from popular woodworking seems to agree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3 - Glue.&lt;/strong&gt; If you can break a joint at the glue line then something isn't right - unless it's an end-to-end butt joint or something which doesn't really work anyway. It's not just a thing that people say - a properly processed glue joint will be stronger than the wood surrounding it. You could try different glues but if there's something wrong with your process it may not help. Also bear in mind that the glue must be stored correctly - if it's been stored in particularly high/low humidity or has ever been allowed to freeze then this can affect joint strength and cause joints to fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4 - Clamps.&lt;/strong&gt; I'm pretty sure that &quot;glue starvation&quot; is a myth as you say. When I'm gluing up, I use heavy duty T-bar sash clamps like this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yp4zX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yp4zX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sash Clamp&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vV0QK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vV0QK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second image there is something that's in our workshop right now. I've tightened these up to the point where they've started to crush/indent into the timber before and never had issues with &quot;glue starvation&quot;. It's always been my impression that when gluing up, the stronger clamping you can use the better (up to the point where you damage the work, obviously). I'd say it's basically impossible to clamp the wood with enough pressure that too much of the glue squeezes out. The wood would disintegrate first. If anything you might require more pressure than you've been applying, but certainly not less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;5 - Reinforcement.&lt;/strong&gt; With face to face glue joints this shouldn't be necessary, and not easy to do in a neat/hidden fashion as you say. We generally use dowels or biscuits but these are for location rather than strength. If you really need to then there are hidden joint systems out there, such as this magnetically driven fixing: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YWREUAlum_o&amp;amp;ab_channel=Hbojane&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Axminster Lamello Invis&quot;&gt;Axminster Lamello Invis - Youtube&lt;/a&gt; - this is quite expensive though, I think individual fixings are about £6 ($10) and the tool to tighten them is about £100 ($140ish).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also other factors which you have not mentioned such as application: Make sure you fully cover both surfaces with glue, do not let them skin over before pushing together, and then clamp such that excess glue is squeezed out. Clean any excess off with a scraper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;On joints generally.&lt;/strong&gt; Butt joints (end-grain to side face) are the weakest kind of joint, except for end-grain to end-grain which are weaker. If you're gluing the end-grain of the joint to the face of another piece of timber the joint won't be inherently strong. Depending on the exact nature of the joint it may be possible to do a sort of hidden spline as seen here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p8RWj.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p8RWj.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Splined Butt Joint&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully this all gives you something to think about and try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastEditorUserId="272" LastEditDate="2018-03-26T12:08:38.817" LastActivityDate="2018-03-26T12:08:38.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7092" CreationDate="2018-03-26T13:51:33.650" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Best Tool would be a circular saw in order to cut through the flooring completely and not have issues with the floor joists. Second choice would be a reciprocating saw (Sawzall, Tigersaw are some trade names). This is basically a much larger version of your jigsaw that will have a longer blade so you can definitely cut through all layers of the flooring. Joists will be an issue though. If possible do not sacrifice a floor joist for a laundry chute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4817" LastActivityDate="2018-03-26T13:51:33.650" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7086" CreationDate="2018-03-26T15:09:36.227" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;With some or most axe and hammer heads you have no choice but to make the top portion of the handle a loose fit &lt;em&gt;at the upper edge&lt;/em&gt; because of the 3D shape of the eye. And actually what you have there is not too bad at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rely on the wooden wedge&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; and the metal wedge/wedges&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; to spread the wood at the top to completely or nearly completely fill the space and create a 'dovetail' shape that will safely lock the head in place and prevent it coming off in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to you can leave the handle projecting about 2-3mm (1/8&quot; or so) above the axe head, the projecting wood there is able to spread slightly more than inside the eye and this will add a little extra security.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might like to look at this previous Answer for a bit more info:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1406/is-it-ok-to-re-use-an-old-iron-wedge-when-handling-an-axe/1412#1412&quot;&gt;Is it OK to re-use an old iron wedge when handling an axe?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; The wooden wedge goes back to front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Metal wedges go diagonally or straight across. With 'ring wedges' just pound them straight in along the centreline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-03-26T15:09:36.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7092" CreationDate="2018-03-26T15:58:31.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few ways you could do this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill starter holes and then use a jigsaw.  You'll need a pretty beefy jigsaw and a long blade to cut through the flooring, underlayment, and subfloor.  I wouldn't recommend trying to turn the blade at the corners.  Drill multiple starter holes instead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill starter holes and then use a reciprocating saw.  You'll need to drill much bigger starter holes, but this is probably the way I'd go.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a plunging track saw.  This is much safer than a circular saw, but still has some issues (minimum cut length, overrun to ensure cutting through all layers.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use an oscillating multi-tool to cut through one layer at a time.  A wood blade on an oscillating tool should have no problem going through 3/4&quot; of material at a time, and it will let you control the cut pretty well.  This would probably be my second choice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2018-03-26T15:58:31.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7088" CreationDate="2018-03-26T16:08:48.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Since the joint is pulling apart where it should be tightest it seems unlikely to me that the concavity is causing the problem. Rather, it seems that I might be making the concavity too subtle. Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're doing what are called sprung joints, or a spring joint in other places. These should do exactly what you want them to do, help the two ends &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; come apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible the concavity is a little too subtle as you put it, however, the important point is the joints shouldn't come apart even if the jointed surfaces were completely straight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I think it's extremely unlikely this is the cause, although it could be a contributing factor if there are multiple causes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It is often said that any of the major woodworking glues are stronger than the wood itself...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an example of sloppy wording, one I particularly hate because it's so commonplace. As I've covered in previous Answers it is better expressed as glued wood joints are stronger than the wood, not the glue itself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In reality many wood glues are not that strong themselves! Standard white PVAs are soft enough that once set they can easily be dented with a fingernail, soft enough to glue paper together and the joint can bend. But still, used properly they can create a joint in wood stronger than the wood around them... even in particularly strong species the joint will &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; be stronger than the grain of the wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And in fact ALL glues used for structural joints in woodworking are capable of creating joints stronger than the wood, so the whole question of which glues are stronger or weaker, which glue is the strongest of all, is really just a distraction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've done some testing where I glue two bits of wood together, leave it overnight, then break it apart with a hammer. The break would generally be fairly clean with only a bit of splintered wood. This would suggest a glue issue to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glue is not the issue, I think you ruled that out yourself using multiple bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this is test pieces and not full jointed edges I'm betting your problem is either your wood is a little too wet or your clamp pressure is too low, or possibly both. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On longer joints the clamp pressure being insufficiently spread along the entire length of the joint can be a definite problem (even VERY strong clamps are not enough if only placed centrally) but this kind of thing seems unlikely in tests like this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've read about glue starvation from excessive clamping pressure but I've also read that it is a myth. I would describe my clamping as &quot;pretty damn tight&quot;. Maybe I need to either increase or decrease my clamping pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I've covered in a few previous Answers here it is as far as we need be concerned a complete myth. No clamps we use are capable of squeezing out too much glue from a well-glued joint and having the joint end up starved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many tests have proven this conclusively and I've done my own to see the effect with my own eyes, using multiple large C-clamps on small test blocks (so many thousands of psi at the joint face, &lt;em&gt;beyond the crush limit of the wood&lt;/em&gt;) and the resulting glue joint was exactly as it's reputed it can be, stronger than the wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this points to a key recommendation — clamps should, ideally, be tightened to the point where they will mark the wood. So you should &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; need to use waste blocks to take the denting and to help spread the clamp pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;5 - Reinforcement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No need to bother. Unreinforced butt joints are used extensively (to say the least) so if you find the issue or issues that are causing the problem for you you won't need to waste any time thinking about this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;One other possible cause&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Glueing old surfaces. Again this is touched on in previous Answers, only freshly-worked surfaces bond reliably. Yes people do glue pieces that they prepared days or even weeks before together all the time and get decent results, but where you want to ensure the joint is as strong as it can be you must only glue surfaces that have been freshly worked (within the hour, ideally shorter than this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-03-26T16:08:48.463" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7099" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7109" CreationDate="2018-03-26T16:32:06.720" Score="3" ViewCount="235" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm fairly new to woodworking, from what I can tell, finishes like lacquer are good for adding protection to wood and waterproofing them. The main issue I have with lacquer is the plastic-like gloss it has. Is it possible to stain something like pine wood to a darker colour, and then do something to it to protect it, whilst maintaining a matte finish with no/little gloss?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4959" LastActivityDate="2018-03-27T15:23:14.520" Title="Protecting wood without artificial looking finishes" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7062" CreationDate="2018-03-26T17:40:53.503" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The structural reason is based on the orientation of the blade guides, specifically the thrust bearings.  The blade's teeth cannot be facing the thrust bearings, or they would have no effect.  Therefore, the blade is installed with the teeth facing away from the thrust bearings, and this determines the direction in which the material is fed (into the teeth, of course), which is left to right, because all band saws have the thrust bearings to the right of the guide bearings or guide blocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can only guess at the reason for THIS (the placement of the guides, which ultimately determines feed direction), but I believe that it might have to do with the majority of users being right handed, making it a desirable orientation because the right hand (more dexterous hand) steers while the left hand pushes, and keeping the right hand farther out of harm's way - to one side of the blade rather than in front of the teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1457" LastActivityDate="2018-03-26T17:40:53.503" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7021" CreationDate="2018-03-26T17:48:38.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wimpy little ShopSmith dust collector is 1/2 HP and supposedly pushes a crummy 330 CFM, so I'm going to hazard a guess at 220 CFM, ballpark, using simple ratios.  Run 10 feet of flex off of that, with one or two bends in it, and your usable throughput will probably be &quot;jack&quot;.  Simplistic, but for practical purposes, close enough.  That's a small motor, for dust collection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1457" LastActivityDate="2018-03-26T17:48:38.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7086" CreationDate="2018-03-26T18:10:02.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to Graphus' great answer, I would add that the completeness of seat around the base is also important for securing the head. It doesn't need to be perfect but contact should be fairly consistent, symmetrical and as close to complete as possible. If there is enough space where the head doesn't contact the wood, it can give enough mechanical room to slowly (or suddenly) work loose even when wedged properly. A loose head, whether suddenly or over time results in a precipitous increase of dangerous outcomes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Checking the security of the head of your axe is important before each use. Doubly so with new handles. First, a visual inspection of the seat for any gap between the axe head and it's seat. Then try to wriggle it with your hand followed by some taps on a chunk of wood on all sides, feeling and checking for movement. Deformation of the wood from the impacts of initial use as well as wood movement from further seasoning and normal humidity changes can lead to loosening of the head. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The axe can be a big subject. There are a few basics that can get us far and much of it will come naturally from exploration and experimentation. However, when it comes to the axe, we definately want to learn from the mistakes of others. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4327" LastActivityDate="2018-03-26T18:10:02.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7103" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7108" CreationDate="2018-03-26T20:39:26.707" Score="2" ViewCount="352" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to try a rubbed out finish. Wondering if shellac will work? I'm using maple and cherry for a mirror frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4063" LastActivityDate="2018-03-27T14:54:37.297" Title="Can shellac be rubbed out?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7105" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-27T12:50:10.597" Score="1" ViewCount="2545" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi I am reading about all the different joint types and when to use them.&#xA;I am building a frame out of 2x2 lumber, joined at 90% most of the time, that will be under a lot of stress.&#xA;I figured out that mortise and tenon seems to be the strongest joint I can make. Sadly it seems way to time consuming to do it for all parts of the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got it down to screwed and glued butt joints vs glued dowels.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I really like the idea about the dowels as they will help me to get the angles right without the need for rigorous clamping.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;However I am concerned that the dowels will loosen over time caused by the moving frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand screwed+glued butt joint seem to be strong and should hold over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are your ideas about this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4962" LastActivityDate="2018-03-27T12:50:10.597" Title="Dowel vs screwed butt for strongest butt joint in moving structural frame" Tags="|lumber|strength|dowel|butt-joint|timberframe|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7106" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7121" CreationDate="2018-03-27T13:28:13.703" Score="0" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning in making a tabletop, with rounded corners, and want to decorate the top with some grooves that I could make with the router using the edge guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like this (excuse my drawing skills):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z2cHZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z2cHZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from this model with three rectangular-shaped grooves that I quickly thought out, are there sites/sources of ideas/plans, ready made?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually I don't know what keywords to use to search for this kind of technique and designs. Help on technical taxonomy is welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;L.E.: Thanks to mmathis, I updated the question title, &quot;inlay&quot; being the design that I am looking for&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastEditorUserId="4942" LastEditDate="2018-03-27T15:08:58.743" LastActivityDate="2018-03-30T11:57:57.657" Title="Tabletop inlay design sources" Tags="|design|router|tabletop|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7103" CreationDate="2018-03-27T14:54:37.297" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can shellac be rubbed out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. The rule is that any finish that dries hard can be rubbed out, and that includes shellac. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Varnishes, lacquers, epoxies and other resin coatings can also be rubbed out as you might expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite the traditional French polishing technique* being capable of giving a superb gloss finish this is only &lt;em&gt;if&lt;/em&gt; you can do it to a high standard and this is not considered easy. A few present-day woodworkers actually think that rubbing it out is the best way to get a really good surface finish with shellac.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method should not be considered a shortcut in any way as you may want to apply more than a dozen coats depending on a few things, including but not limited to how perfect you want it to look, the 'cut' of the shellac and whether you're spraying it on or brushing it on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*And numerous variations of applying shellac that called French polishing but aren't really the genuine article.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-03-27T14:54:37.297" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7099" CreationDate="2018-03-27T15:23:14.520" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This area of &quot;artificial-looking finishes&quot; is fraught with the problem of individual taste and personal opinion and the finishes you think look artificial others would not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it is really not the gloss that is the issue with a finish looking &quot;a bit plasticy&quot; as many detractors express it, it's generally &lt;em&gt;the thickness it is built up to&lt;/em&gt;. Almost nobody thinks a traditional French polishing job looks artificial even if left extremely glossy, and the reason is that the method produces this gloss with the thinnest build of finish possible (even a dozen layers may amount to less than one coat of varnish).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it possible to stain something like pine wood to a darker colour, and then do something to it to protect it, whilst maintaining a matte finish with no/little gloss?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short yes, but there are some additional things you need to know about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is that pine is notorious for staining poorly because it is a blotch-prone wood* (possibly the worst one there is unfortunately). And the darker the colour the more evident this blotching is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for a matt finish this is possible on any wood with any finish on it, so at least this part is easy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Arguably the easiest way to achieve this is by using a purpose-made matt/matte varnish, but it can also be done by abrading a gloss finish to matt it down. Although it is more work the latter is my preferred way of doing it because it's more reliable, and it's cheaper. Matt varnish can give patchy results sometimes and you should ideally build the finish using gloss, then use matt only at the end, so you may need to buy two versions of the finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more detail on rubbing a finish down see these previous Answers:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1699/how-can-i-reduce-the-gloss-of-a-varnished-piece-of-furniture/1702#1702&quot;&gt;How can I reduce the gloss of a varnished piece of furniture?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3189/flat-polyurethane-finish-for-tabletop/3190#3190&quot;&gt;Flat polyurethane finish for tabletop&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*For this reason it is often recommended not to stain pine in the traditional manner at all but instead rely on coloured overcoats, e.g. &quot;gel stain&quot; (which despite its name is not stain, but a thickened version of coloured varnish).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-03-27T15:23:14.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6644" CreationDate="2018-03-28T12:43:21.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have some heavy objects that are not valuable (such as scrap metal, anvils, large rocks, things that in the event that the desk will break will not cause much loss of money) you could try to load it in steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, load it at 100 kg for a week, while watching it structure, measuring the height in several points, looking for bowing, looking for joints starting to fail etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then if this is ok move to 120 kg and further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not try using people or pets as in the event of a sudden breakage they could get hurt or worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastActivityDate="2018-03-28T12:43:21.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7111" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7256" CreationDate="2018-03-28T18:14:32.777" Score="4" ViewCount="388" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on a 14 x 17&quot; sample the contractor showed us, we bought cherry veneer bathroom cabinets with a cinnamon finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most (not all) of the drawers have splotchy staining (see photo). The splotchiness bothers us, but we are also not wood experts. Is the splotchiness due to expected variations that will/should be less noticeable as the wood darkens; or should we raise a concern with the contractor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: We know the question seems to straddle this site and the DIY site. We posted it here because the question is wood-focused. If the moderators think it's more appropriate at DIY (or even some other site), then please migrate the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TRv2h.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TRv2h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cherry veneer with splotchy staining&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2360" LastActivityDate="2018-05-30T19:22:01.567" Title="Splotchy staining on cherry veneer" Tags="|wood|staining|coloring|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6644" CreationDate="2018-03-28T21:08:13.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't particularly like the idea of significantly increasing the load on this piece of furniture. Sure you have two uprights directly beneath but racking and twisting are a potential concern. In addition, water ingress, from a big enough spill or even small amounts repeatedly over time, could weaken the MDF. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Far more has been asked of far worse structures and been gotten away with I'm sure, but you will want to make a risk-benefit analysis here. If you have your heart set on a heavier tank, perhaps consider replacement or at least some modification, reinforcement and/or mitigation of MDF moisture mushing. (Also, apologies all around as arbitrary alliteration apparently aggravates)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4327" LastActivityDate="2018-03-28T21:08:13.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7069" CreationDate="2018-03-29T00:32:22.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Galvanized and coated deck screws rust in treated pine; I am sure it has very little to do with the treatment. The first screws failed at about 10 years but a few lasted 20 years. I expect the stainless replacements to last much longer; The box indicates they are 316 SS which is likely true. Driving the heads down into the wood makes it worse because the recess retains water. I looked at the reference regarding corrosion and it listed no source for the corrosion reference, so I still doubt it. However I built my deck in 1996 so used CCA wood ; The EPA did not require the new crap until 2003. I am/ was a NACE certified Corrosion Specialist ( # 1635 , I have not renewed my certification) so I am not impressed by random articles regarding corrosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3966" LastEditorUserId="3966" LastEditDate="2018-03-30T15:10:41.557" LastActivityDate="2018-03-30T15:10:41.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7069" CreationDate="2018-03-29T11:25:12.800" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Second answer:If you are using &quot;deck wood&quot; ( aka 5/4&quot;) it doesn't make much difference, the wood and the coated or galvanized screws or nails all last roughly 10 years. If you build a deck with the much stronger, longer lasting 2&quot; X lumber, use stainless screws, period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3966" LastActivityDate="2018-03-29T11:25:12.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7115" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-29T14:57:48.547" Score="0" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other day I found these two sections of a tree trunk in the street. So I'm wondering, can they be prepared to be used as some type of rustic stump table?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/deNyO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/deNyO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gl9da.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gl9da.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2833" LastEditorUserId="2524" LastEditDate="2018-03-29T15:00:52.590" LastActivityDate="2018-07-27T17:01:19.743" Title="Can these tree tunks be used for a small table?" Tags="|wood-selection|table-making|tabletop|green-wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7111" CreationDate="2018-03-29T15:52:22.700" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a similarly stained cherry tallboy that has the same, or very similar, markings. Not all over, though.  With mine their contrast seems to vary with the angle I look at them.  I consider them to be part of the character of the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZsFSi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZsFSi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;stained cherry tallboy detail&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4972" LastActivityDate="2018-03-29T15:52:22.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7115" CreationDate="2018-03-29T16:30:24.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is a little broad, but I'd say yes, you could make a table out of these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming you're going for a &quot;found object&quot; style, and you're not talking about using them as lumber to make a &quot;normal&quot; table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll run into two main challenges here, flattening the endgrain and checking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first problem is, how do you get them to sit flat and how do you get the top to be parallel (i.e. level)?  For this I'd probably recommend either a belt sander or a low-angle plane.  Flattening the bottom is as simple as removing the high spots until there are none.  To make the top parallel to the bottom measure up the side a set distance from the bottom at several points around the piece and remove material until you hit all of these marks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second, and probably more important, problem is checking.  As the wood dries it shrinks more radially than it does axially.  This means that it will attempt to tear itself apart, with cracks forming from the center outward.  As it is it will take several years to dry, and it will continue checking the whole time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several ways you could try to deal with this, but I think the easiest would be to just embrace the natural process.  Let it dry for a few years and develop checks, then fill in the voids with resin or epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2018-03-29T16:30:24.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5187" CreationDate="2018-03-29T16:38:01.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fine sand for a new start. Then coat with a full gloss yacht or spar varnish then sand and recoat every 24 hours until you get the desired build. Yacht varnish builds quicker than polyurethane and behaves more predictably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I would lightly sand with flour paper (2400 grit) and then apply two coats of polyurethane to give durability. Apply the second coat at the nominal drying/recoat time, don't let it go too hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yacht varnish will fill any dents and is not too particular about contamination whereas polyurethane has skittish moments and sometimes will actually flow out of small depressions on its second coat because of some weird surface tension effect.  This is really weird when it happens - you pour paint in but the dent never fills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4972" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2018-03-29T20:02:38.443" LastActivityDate="2018-03-29T20:02:38.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6307" CreationDate="2018-03-29T16:51:22.497" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a small quantity of yacht varnish.  I will fill your irregularities and when it is thoroughly dry you can sand it flat and proceed as planned. Polyurethane will not fill holes in itself very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4972" LastActivityDate="2018-03-29T16:51:22.497" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7120" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-29T23:58:32.940" Score="1" ViewCount="476" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really want a froe. They are hard to find in my area and when they do exist they are expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I want to cleave a log, e.g. ash, what other options could I consider? I could use axe heads but that wouldn't work well as I would not be able to get them deep enough into the wood and they are too wide anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions for &lt;s&gt;froeternatives&lt;/s&gt; alternatives that I could use for cleaving? I have some ideas about &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2832/finding-the-right-metal-for-making-a-froe&quot;&gt;Finding the right metal for making a froe&lt;/a&gt; but in the absence of the tool what else could I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2018-03-30T16:30:39.960" LastActivityDate="2018-04-11T00:07:39.133" Title="What could I use instead of a froe when cleaving?" Tags="|hand-tools|tool-selection|traditional-techniques|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7106" CreationDate="2018-03-30T11:57:57.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about pinterest&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pinterest.ca/search/pins/?q=coffee%20table%20top%20decoration%20router&amp;amp;rs=typed&amp;amp;term_meta[]=coffee%7Ctyped&amp;amp;term_meta[]=table%7Ctyped&amp;amp;term_meta[]=top%7Ctyped&amp;amp;term_meta[]=decoration%7Ctyped&amp;amp;term_meta[]=router%7Ctyped&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.pinterest.ca/search/pins/?q=coffee%20table%20top%20decoration%20router&amp;amp;rs=typed&amp;amp;term_meta[]=coffee%7Ctyped&amp;amp;term_meta[]=table%7Ctyped&amp;amp;term_meta[]=top%7Ctyped&amp;amp;term_meta[]=decoration%7Ctyped&amp;amp;term_meta[]=router%7Ctyped&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spor la lucru!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="497" LastActivityDate="2018-03-30T11:57:57.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7120" CreationDate="2018-03-30T13:28:05.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can make one from a car leaf spring (available at auto salvage yard) keep the eye end to mount a handle and grind one edge with a double bevel. It will be curved slightly but not bad over the length you are using. The springs are usually 1095 steel (which is a high carbon steel) that has been hardened and tempered. Cutting with an abrasive wheel will be easier than a hacksaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4817" LastActivityDate="2018-03-30T13:28:05.323" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6177" CreationDate="2018-03-31T04:02:54.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some (perhaps all) of the DMT Extra Fine and Extra Extra Fine stones are contaminated with coarser grit diamonds. See these Scanning Electron Microscope images here &lt;a href=&quot;https://scienceofsharp.wordpress.com/2015/09/28/diamond-plate-break-in-part-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://scienceofsharp.wordpress.com/2015/09/28/diamond-plate-break-in-part-2/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3lMSk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3lMSk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4976" LastActivityDate="2018-03-31T04:02:54.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7120" CreationDate="2018-04-01T15:22:11.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What could I use instead of a froe when cleaving?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can of course do a lot of splitting with a small hand axe or hatchet, but a much closer substitute would be a strong machete, thick-bladed knife or cleaver*. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these can be used for &lt;em&gt;batoning&lt;/em&gt;, one of the primary techniques used in froe work, knives quite directly mimicking the blade of a froe (so the thicker they are at the spine the better). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You won't of course have the same leverage available to you as the long right-angle handle on a froe provides, so don't expect to be able to forcibly lever open logs or parts of logs in the same way. But you will still be able to do some pretty respectable splits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thetruthaboutknives.com/2014/02/in-defense-of-batoning/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;In Defense of Batoning&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://morethanjustsurviving.com/batoning/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Complete Guide to Batoning&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*If possible whatever is chosen should have a full tang for maximum strength in the handle area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-04-01T15:22:11.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7125" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7126" CreationDate="2018-04-01T21:24:32.370" Score="4" ViewCount="327" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a live edge shelf, similar to &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.pinimg.com/236x/d5/47/0e/d5470ebd3c64393f456203b3b053666d--over-it-durham.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, with my cousin. It will be about 3 feet long, 8 inches deep, and 1 inch thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to attach beer taps too it about every 5-6 inches, but I am afraid that the wood will crack because of the thickness of the screw on the tap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This is purely for show, they won't be touched.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found these &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.etsy.com/listing/562614479/hanger-bolt-for-tap-ferrules?gpla=1&amp;amp;gao=1&amp;amp;utm_campaign=shopping_us_BeerPeripherals_sfc_osa&amp;amp;utm_medium=cpc&amp;amp;utm_source=google&amp;amp;utm_custom1=0&amp;amp;utm_content=11192747&amp;amp;gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5Lnj0f6Z2gIVhrrACh0wxgl1EAQYASABEgIPTfD_BwE&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;little things&lt;/a&gt;, but I'm not sure exactly what they do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Best way to approach this?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any recommendations on method, wood choice, etc are welcomed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pictures of a tap:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3kuCv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3kuCv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AlVV1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AlVV1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4980" LastActivityDate="2018-04-03T12:55:10.287" Title="How to screw beer tap into wood without cracking" Tags="|wood-selection|screws|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7125" CreationDate="2018-04-01T23:51:12.593" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The hanger bolts you've linked are primarily for attaching something with holes to a wood item. You've got the right idea but should be considering the inversion of the machine threaded portion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for threaded inserts for wood. You would have to drill a reasonably larger hole in the wood, force the insert into the hole (usually with a screwdriver, sometimes a hex key) and then thread your tap handle into the insert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ljQtx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ljQtx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;insert for hard wood&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above image is listed as an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ezlok.com/threaded-inserts-for-wood&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;insert for hard wood&lt;/a&gt;. Depending on how tightly the grain lines are on your live edge, you may want to use an insert for soft wood:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/glsYk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/glsYk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;soft wood insert&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By appearance, I'd guess that the threads on the tap are 1/4-20 and the inserts linked above are available in that thread type. You can take your tap to the local hardware store to match up the thread if you are not certain. You may also find that the big box stores and hardware stores will carry these products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also discover that the product will provide the necessary hole size to be drilled in order to properly use the insert. I've also discovered that the hardwood inserts require to be tapped with a standard tap, an additional expense for your project. It appears from the product information that the softwood inserts can be directly driven. If the wood is not soft enough, the insert will probably be rendered useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2018-04-01T23:51:12.593" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2446" CreationDate="2018-04-02T12:58:54.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ya cutting 2x material with a jig saw requires a good powerful jig and a nice long blade . Good rule of thumb is 3 teeth of your saw blade cutting the wood at all times, so to do this your best bet is to use a circular saw, jigsaw is best for your sheet goods. Circular saw is by far the most versitile saw u can own. u can even cut curves in sheet goods with a circular saw. With a circ and a jig you wont run into many projects you cant figure out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4983" LastActivityDate="2018-04-02T12:58:54.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7081" CreationDate="2018-04-02T13:03:25.023" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go to the hospital right away if u cut more then 1 hole without resperation device on. Kidding, your fine. Long term every day exposure is diffrrent. No saw dust is good for you to breathe in the fine dust can get into your lungs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4983" LastActivityDate="2018-04-02T13:03:25.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7043" CreationDate="2018-04-02T22:31:12.380" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, stacking will lead to visible marks. Possible effects include dents (or indented stripes from board edges), extra-matte areas, patterns matching the overlying material. Even you don't notice the effect directly, you will see it in raking light (or worse, you will see when installed as a ceiling above the windows). Thinner coats will help but that leads to more coats. You can have the boards vertical for drying, which helps in the space issue for drying. Depending on the finish, polymerization takes time to become hard and evaporation of solvents also takes time (leading to a slight thinning of the thickness of the finish). Both are easy to impress or mark. If you like, do some small-scale tests. Even when your fingernail can't mark the surface, prolonged contact will mar the finish. Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastEditorUserId="111" LastEditDate="2018-06-05T20:01:09.977" LastActivityDate="2018-06-05T20:01:09.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7130" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-03T10:17:05.543" Score="0" ViewCount="63" Body="&lt;p&gt;I came across these old chairs for a very fair price.....free. I’m just wondering if anyone has ever seen this style. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D9wDL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4986" LastActivityDate="2018-04-03T11:40:42.253" Title="Help identifying some old chairs" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7130" CreationDate="2018-04-03T11:40:42.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;those chairs are a danish/midcentury modern style. The joint is a double bridle joint. refinish them and they will look very nice indeed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2018-04-03T11:40:42.253" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7125" CreationDate="2018-04-03T12:55:10.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am afraid that the wood will crack because of the thickness of the screw on the tap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two words: pilot hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is exactly what pilot holes are for, to prevent something that screws into wood from splitting it*. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To find the size of hole you need, identify the &lt;em&gt;minor diameter&lt;/em&gt; by measuring across the bottom of the threads. That's about the right size for the pilot hole, although you can go a bit smaller or larger in some cases (smaller for softer woods, larger for harder woods).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If unsure you have the correct diameter do run a test on an offcut of the wood you're using before screwing into your live-edge board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; something that may not be obvious, some experimentation is likely to also be required to get these all screwed fully home while facing exactly forward. Just as when &quot;clocking&quot; screws expect to have to do some tweaking!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Also used with nails in some circumstances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-04-03T12:55:10.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6030" CreationDate="2018-04-03T13:33:45.943" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try using an angle grinder with the right accessories:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C557q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C557q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to carving, shaping and sanding wood there are many effective tools to consider. Only one however, can be quickly adapted to accomplish all three of these common woodworking tasks with ease. The angle grinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are a woodworker looking for a fast and easy method to quickly carve, then shape, and finally sand out large gouges and even chainsaw curfs, the angle grinder is the tool for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind though, the angle grinder will remove much wood in a hurry, and like all power tools, when using your angle grinder on wood, be certain to wear safety goggles and other appropriate PPE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And for finely detailed woodworking projects you may consider other, less aggressive alternatives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More information in the original article:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://logfurniturehowto.com/how-to-use-an-angle-grinder-on-wood/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://logfurniturehowto.com/how-to-use-an-angle-grinder-on-wood/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2018-04-03T13:33:45.943" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7134" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-03T14:04:59.853" Score="0" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am an arm-chair DIY. I want to make about 75 pieces of this component using OSB. The pieces of do not have to be perfect or smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ol5Bw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ol5Bw.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used a jigsaw and an oscillating multi-tool to cut few pieces, but it is taking a long time. Any suggestions on how to create replicas of this component?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4987" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2018-04-03T15:46:47.783" LastActivityDate="2018-04-04T14:34:22.653" Title="Making replicas" Tags="|cutting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7134" CreationDate="2018-04-03T14:40:17.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly the only fast way is going to be with a CNC router. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failing that you might be able to make yourself a template and then use a handheld router with a bearing-guided pattern bit - you do then need to worry about how you will attach the template to the workpieces. You could clamp them down but then the clamps will get in the way. You'd also need to clear out any internal corners with further sawing, chiselling etc. (since a router will leave a rounded internal corner).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a video on using a template with a follower bit here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hw4uAVNvk58&amp;amp;ab_channel=eHow&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hw4uAVNvk58&amp;amp;ab_channel=eHow&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per Graphus's comment below, if using a router bit on OSB you will need to consider tool wear. I'm not sure of the tool-wearing characteristics of OSB specifically but I know that other particle boards can cause very high tool wear. A tungsten-carbide bit might help, or it may be more economical to use &quot;cheapy&quot; bits but get a few of them and/or resharpen every so often. Depending on what the parts will be used for and how good the edge finish needs to be, you may want to get a spiral cutter or even a &quot;compression&quot; cutter to help with edge-chipping. See here for router bit recommendations: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/833/when-should-i-use-a-spiral-router-bit/835&quot;&gt;When should I use a spiral router bit?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastEditorUserId="272" LastEditDate="2018-04-04T12:58:05.463" LastActivityDate="2018-04-04T12:58:05.463" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7137" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-04T06:00:29.483" Score="2" ViewCount="1607" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just need to drive few holes into the wood to make a DIY bathroom storage. But I am facing some problem to do that without any tools. Can anyone sort out the required tools for that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4988" LastActivityDate="2018-05-05T18:01:48.950" Title="Tools needed for drilling holes into the wood?" Tags="|wood|drilling|holes|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7134" CreationDate="2018-04-04T14:26:55.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you're stacking a pile of these to add your third dimension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Make a sandwich of straight strips.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can accomplish by breaking your shape up into two versions made of straight, ¾&amp;quot; strips. Take the following simple example. By stacking Alpha-Beta-Alpha-… the corner is well-reinforced. Perhaps not &lt;em&gt;as&lt;/em&gt; strong, but strong enough. Quantity is key and you have that by the bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've no idea what this technique is called. Answers on a postcard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/140Al.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Build yourself a cut list for both versions, turn a load of sheets into ¾&amp;quot; stock and take it to the mitre saw. You're going to save yourself a &lt;em&gt;ton&lt;/em&gt; of OSB this way but more than anything you're going to save time. You're going to be able to set a stop block and cut up to copies one after another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're going to save so much wood, you might be able to upgrade to a nice ply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glue up becomes interesting. Build yourself a template, or a negative and that can help you align things. Don't be afraid to do this in multiple steps. Normally I would say you could assemble each stacked part first and then assemble the shape but the quantity and the material would make this too tedious to try and bring together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3990" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2018-04-04T14:34:22.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7139" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7141" CreationDate="2018-04-04T22:49:29.847" Score="3" ViewCount="2204" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to take a crack at building the shelf pictured below, except I'm just going to make the top section, since I only want one level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of using a french cleat behind the length of the taller board to mount the shelf to the wall, but I realized that will hang the entire weight carried by the shelf off of the joints where that board attaches to the end frames (yellow highlight).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan was to use dowels at all the joints, but I'm not sure how much weight they can carry. If that board is 1&quot; x 2&quot;, how many of what size dowel should I use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dtFS2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dtFS2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4992" LastActivityDate="2018-04-05T01:17:48.037" Title="How many dowels is enough to support this joint?" Tags="|joinery|dowel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7137" CreationDate="2018-04-04T23:50:08.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To drill holes you will need a drill and a bit of the correct size.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will optionally also need something to measure with to locate where they should be and something to mark this location on your work piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2018-04-04T23:50:08.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7139" CreationDate="2018-04-05T01:17:48.037" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming a heavy load of books, the connection is can easily be uspported using two 3/8&quot; x 2&quot; wooden dowels. The 2&quot; length insures that the dowels are firmly held in the framing members on each side.  The 3/8&quot; width allows 3/16&quot; of wood on each side or the dowel to the face. You should arrange the two dowels with vertically near the top and bottom of the framing board to resist rotation in the connection of the boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have not described what type of connection you will use for the other joints. Another option is to construct mortise and tenon connections with shoulders to hide the actual joint on both the rear and the side frames.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2018-04-05T01:17:48.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7142" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-05T02:57:49.103" Score="1" ViewCount="591" Body="&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Here are the tools that I am using to align my blade to the miter slots:  &#xA;1) Neoteck DTI Digtial Dial NTK012 indicates 0.01mm/0.0005&quot;  &#xA;2) Neoteck Digital Level NTK034 Box   &#xA;     (Resolution: ±0.01 Degrees at 0-1 and 89-90 Degrees; ±0.05 Degrees at the Rest  &#xA;      Accuracy: ±0.1 Degrees at 0-1 and 89-90 Degrees; ±0.02 Degrees at the Rest)   &#xA;3) Digital angle finder  https://www.generaltools.com/5-in-digital-angle-finder    &#xA;      Accuracy: ±0.3°  &#xA;      Resolution: 0.1°&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I test #2 against the 90 degrees of a carpenter square is dead on !&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The digital level is not that stable and I am thinking about returning it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My question is: what is an acceptable deviation from 90 for a table saw like Rigid TS3650? (blade raised at 3&quot; above the table level and it should be as square as possible to the table top)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess it will depend on the task so here are my near future plans:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-picture frames&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-kitchen island frames&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-shelves&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-bathroom vanities  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At full blade height I get a 44.8 for 45 degrees and 89.6 at 90 degrees measured with tool #3 The above mean that I can't push the blade any more toward any of the extreme angles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="497" LastEditorUserId="497" LastEditDate="2018-04-05T15:57:30.043" LastActivityDate="2018-04-05T15:57:30.043" Title="For wood working purposes what is an acceptable error for blade vertical alignment for a table saw?" Tags="|table-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7142" CreationDate="2018-04-05T08:01:22.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To be honest, the acceptable tolerance is whatever causes there to be no problems with whatever specific job you're working on. As you indicate, for some jobs you're going to need a tighter tolerance than others. It's not something anyone else can really answer, since the answer really can only be &quot;It has to be good enough&quot;. I would suggest measuring the angle on the cut piece as well as just the blade itself as the result is what actually matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference I've always just set it up with an engineer's square (no digital angle finders etc.) and this has always been good enough for my purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also to consider is that the smaller the protrusion of the blade from the bed is, the less the angle alignment of the blade will matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2018-04-05T08:01:22.083" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7144" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7146" CreationDate="2018-04-05T12:59:06.027" Score="4" ViewCount="1349" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to make floor tiles which should look similar to attached picture.&#xA;I sliced a wood about 6mm thick and wanted to glue them to the mdf base.&#xA;However when I put PVA glue on a wood slices, they bent. Corners of slices raised from a base from 3 to 7 mm. Bending is really huge and caused by the moisture of glue. So with such a deformation gluing is not possible at all. I tried to straighten slices with a board on top of them and clamps but only crack a couple of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is how to prevent wood bending? or is there other way to attach slices to a base?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: as mentioned in comments, each tile is supposed to be a rectangular about 800x400mm, these sizes could vary. Slices (open grain pieces) are going to have width about 60-85mm (85 is the capability of a saw) and length 60-100mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7xVHh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7xVHh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4997" LastEditorUserId="4997" LastEditDate="2018-04-05T14:35:20.197" LastActivityDate="2018-04-05T15:30:28.243" Title="prevent wood bending when glue is applied" Tags="|glue|bending|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7144" CreationDate="2018-04-05T13:56:47.610" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is tough because you're gluing end grain, which is notorious for soaking up a lot of glue. Using too little leads to a weak joint, but using too much can cause problems as the moisture escapes unevenly (as you've discovered).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put clamps on when you apply the glue. You can clamp each piece down individually with multiple clamps, or use a couple cauls to apply even pressure on each piece. Or, depending on the size, put another piece of mdf or plywood on top and clamp that to the base (using cauls to get clamping pressure in the middle if needed). You may not need clamps at all, and a heavy object (book, bricks, paint can, etc) on top of a board may provide enough pressure to keep the tiles flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be able to only glue a few pieces at a time this way, as PVA glue does not have a long working time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One possible alternative would be to use epoxy and do this in two passes. First, put a thin layer of epoxy on the bottom of the tile to seal up the end grain a bit. Let that dry / cure, and then use another layer of epoxy to adhere the tile to the MDF base. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastActivityDate="2018-04-05T13:56:47.610" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7144" CreationDate="2018-04-05T14:43:55.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With thicker blocks you could use PVA but don't, it's the wrong sort of adhesive for the application*. Whatever glue you pick must be completely waterproof — these are fairly thin end-grain blocks you're attaching, so will be extremely permeable to water (basically like sponges).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could I suppose use mastic or construction adhesive but there are numerous purpose-made flooring adhesives and some will be suitable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This type of thing used to be done using bitumen or a bitumen-based adhesive and they are still considered a great choice by some pros, but I'm not sure if they'd be available where you are. However they are still made and available from the right suppliers, in Europe at least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory at least you could use epoxy for this, as epoxies don't contain any water they don't cause wood to swell. However it will work out &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; expensive if you have a large area to cover. And if it matters, the cured adhesive is so strong it could make removal of the flooring at some point down the line a real nightmare. Even cleaning excess adhesive out from the grout lines could prove a real challenge!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*No gap-filling ability, to allow for irregularities in the sub-floor or the wooden blocks themselves. Many simply won't be waterproof enough. They don't bond end grain well without prior preparation so would add hugely to the effort needed to complete the project (every block would have to have glue spread on it twice).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-04-05T14:43:55.260" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7144" CreationDate="2018-04-05T15:30:28.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wood is curling due to moisture before the glue can set. If you must use PVA glue, try wetting the top side with water and cover the top with plastic sheet to slow down drying of the top. You may have to sand the top surface for any grain rise, but you will needed to level the tops anyways&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2018-04-05T15:30:28.243" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7148" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-05T15:55:47.733" Score="3" ViewCount="13942" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in Lithuania, Eastern Europe. Throughout the years, I have bought lumber from more than 20 lumberyards all around the country, trying to find at least a single one that could sell me straight, clear boards that I need for making boats and spars. My efforts were in vain. Even though I always bought the highest quality lumber, dried and calibrated, and often even promised to pay double for the really good stuff, the stuff they actually give me is barely acceptable to make pallets. I am slowly accepting the fact that there is no quality lumber in my country, regardless of how much I am willing to pay. The boards I get are twisted, bent, warped, don't have a single straight edge, and are full of knots (I am talking big ones, every 10-20 cm (4-8 inches).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the time I re-rip and plane these boards flat and straight, there is almost nothing left to use, and 3/4 of the wood is wasted. What's worse, when I rip a straightened and flattened board, it often starts twisting and warping right after it comes out of the tablesaw - that's how bad it is. Before you say it, the machines I have in my shop are of high quality, and I do know how to use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of that reason, I am forced to consider ways to straighten and flatten these boards &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; ripping them to dimensions. I tried forcing it them into shape using steam boxes, but most of the time the lumber breaks, even after steaming a piece for hours, and bending slowly. Even when it works, I still can't get them perfectly straight and flat, especially when the bend is compound and changes direction every few meters. Steam-bending to approximate straightness and then finishing up with a tablesaw or a planer doesn't work, because as I said, these boards start immediately warping again as soon as they come out of the machines due to released internal stress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't imagine how frustrating this is. I haven't seen a straight board since the last time I visited USA. The stuff we get in Lithuania is beyond horrible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fellow woodworkers, do you have any advice for me? How do work with such lumber without wasting so much time and money? I can't afford shipping lumber from other countries or continents...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for your time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4999" LastActivityDate="2021-06-10T15:44:17.897" Title="What are some tricks to flatten twisted and warped lumber boards without removing any material from them?" Tags="|technique|wood|wood-selection|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7148" CreationDate="2018-04-05T21:47:38.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may be that the better quality lumber is being sold to larger companies, such as furniture manufacturers.  Perhaps you could find a lumber using company that has secured a reliable source, and purchase from them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know some people that buy their wood from a local cabinet shop rather than direct from a supplier.  The supplier has more reason to keep a big buyer happy, and you can possibly benefit from that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2018-04-05T21:47:38.290" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7150" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7158" CreationDate="2018-04-05T23:07:44.083" Score="4" ViewCount="447" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently acquired a plank of roughly cut, dipped in wax Ebony. The piece is roughly 5ft x 8in x 2.5in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got a lot that I'd like to do with this piece - the largest of which is a decorative item that will use about 2ft of the plank. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to go about getting the wood ready to work? Should I cut the plank into the smaller pieces that I need or work on drying out the whole thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read that with Ebony, one should really take their time - but I'm also itchin' to get working. Are there any tried and true methods to help speed up the drying process? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I probed the Ebony with a moisture meter on the end and in the middle and the readings were: 16.1% in the middle, 10.4% on an end. (Portland, Oregon is where I am and where this board has been sitting)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an image of the goods, btw:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xk8oN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xk8oN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4781" LastEditorDisplayName="user4781" LastEditDate="2018-04-08T15:10:02.243" LastActivityDate="2018-04-08T15:10:02.243" Title="How best to dry Ebony?" Tags="|wood-drying|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7151" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9732" CreationDate="2018-04-06T18:42:51.380" Score="2" ViewCount="1569" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at what finish would be best for a redwood bed frame. I would like the wood to look natural, warmish color, and a bit of a satiny feel. I've done a few trials and here is where I stand (see pics):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;polycrylic satin looks OK but dulls the details in the wood a bit (compared to others I tried) and I seem to be leaving streak marks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shellac looked better than poly but gets stained by water (experience on a diff project)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wax looked the best IMO, and felt the best but provide no protection (and redwood is quite soft)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Danish oil has a nice overall color but made some parts look grayish and other parts look blotchy (could be I haven't applied it correctly). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would you guys have any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/grmHj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/grmHj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cS8Lt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cS8Lt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5008" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2018-11-20T01:40:35.843" LastActivityDate="2020-12-04T06:07:35.907" Title="Finishing California redwood for a bed frame?" Tags="|finishing|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7152" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-06T19:55:57.587" Score="3" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am almost done with an interior office door project.The doors are massive (8ft tall) Fir doors that I grayed with vinegar and steel wool. My wife loves the color and all the testing I have done result in a more &quot;brown&quot; look as when I apply the wood takes a &quot;wet look&quot;. I was considering if I should go to a wax like Mylands and wanted to see if anyone had a recommendation for a way to keep the grey color but also provide a bit of a sealant for the wood. They are doors so moisture and etc aren't a problem but they will get a lot of touch I am sure.      &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5009" LastActivityDate="2018-04-08T12:20:49.480" Title="Stop the &quot;wet look&quot; of top coat on grey wood" Tags="|finishing|door|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7153" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7159" CreationDate="2018-04-07T06:43:40.847" Score="1" ViewCount="2071" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 3x5 ft Redwood slab with 1 coat of varnish/danish oil (50/50) mixture and 1 coat (last applied) of just varnish.  I applied fairly thick coats for both layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0027UEW5K&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;varnish&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00173CDSQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Danish oil&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I scrubbed down the slab between the two coats with #0000 steel wool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the last layer, I notice that some application streaks/brush strokes are left over in the varnish as well as some nibs and what looks like a hair that must have become trapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in finding the best course of action to obtain a high gloss/polished/buffed looked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First and foremost, is this kind of finish possible with the type of varnish I'm using?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming the answer is &quot;Yes&quot;:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How many more coats of varnish and/or varnish-oil layers should I apply before stopping?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To obtain a high gloss finish, what rubbing and/or polishing compounds should I use (links to products would be great!)? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As well as what method of buffing and polishing should I use?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've assumed that something like this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-5-Amp-6-in-Buffer-Polisher-RB61G/205502713&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;buffer/polisher&lt;/a&gt; would do the trick?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;But I'm pretty lost on what compounds/liquids (as well as any other tricks/tips/steps) that I need to use in conjunction with the buffer/polisher on the final coat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:  Adding pictures of piece after recent 3rd coat of varnish + Danish oil:&#xA;NOTE: coats are now:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;50/50 varnish + Danish oil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;varnish&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;50/50 varnish + Danish oil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/siUFQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/siUFQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n9edK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n9edK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FNE5u.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FNE5u.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4432" LastEditorUserId="4432" LastEditDate="2018-04-09T03:58:11.667" LastActivityDate="2018-04-09T03:58:11.667" Title="Finishing/Buffing/Polishing Redwood Slab with Oil-based Varnish thinned with Danish Oil" Tags="|finishing|finish-selection|varnish|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7154" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-08T00:15:33.690" Score="0" ViewCount="1421" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently acquired a Ryobi biscuit jointer and purchased some Freud biscuits. They didn't fit the slots made by the biscuit jointer very well. I am aware that the biscuits are made to swell when wet, so I tried to check the fit  by soaking them in water. They fit better, but it was still not what I would call a snug fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm trying to figure out if the biscuit jointer blade is too big, or the biscuits are too thin. Or is there no standard for biscuit thickness?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1151" LastActivityDate="2021-01-08T03:59:21.280" Title="What are the standard dimensions for biscuit joints?" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7155" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-08T02:12:56.030" Score="0" ViewCount="429" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having trouble with staining wood correctly and I'm getting dark patches as seen in the picture below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jSryX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jSryX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Materials:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bare new radiata pine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stain timber primer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oak Stain w/ 50% reducer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My process used:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Orbital sander with 80 grit to smooth out gaps between panels (spot sanding, but also in other areas apart from the patches)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Orbital sanding with 180 grit along the entire board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wipe down with spirits&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply Timber Primer with bristle brush&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait 12h+ as in instructions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply stain with bristle brush horizontally, panel by panel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait 2 minutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wipe excess down with a rag &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In retrospect, the instructions of the primer said apply a flood coat. While I was liberal in some areas, I might not have been everywhere. Would this be the main reason?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5014" LastActivityDate="2018-04-08T19:35:36.917" Title="What causes dark patches in stained wood?" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7154" CreationDate="2018-04-08T02:17:42.530" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;4mm or 5/32&quot; kerf is standard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4817" LastActivityDate="2018-04-08T02:17:42.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7157" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7161" CreationDate="2018-04-08T03:12:35.320" Score="2" ViewCount="1953" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a slight gap in a mortise &amp;amp; tenon joint. anyone have a cover-up or fix for slight gap in joinery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4063" LastActivityDate="2018-04-08T13:09:50.830" Title="Techniques for hiding slight gaps in joinery" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7150" CreationDate="2018-04-08T05:50:28.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the value of this piece of wood, I'd say trying to speed things up is not a good idea.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; remove the wax from the middle, so the moisture has some sort of chance to exit via the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing you might want to check, is your moisture reading.  Most moisture meters just apply a voltage to the wood and measure the (tiny) current, and then turn that into a moisture reading via some sort of look up table.  The lookup table is probably correct for construction timber - it wouldn't surprise me to discover that the resistance of ebony is rather different.  (Being denser, it will have a naturally higher conductivity so the moisture may actually be rather lower.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1646" LastActivityDate="2018-04-08T05:50:28.993" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7153" CreationDate="2018-04-08T12:10:09.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the last layer, I notice that some application streaks/brush strokes are left over in the varnish as well as some nibs and what looks like a hair that must have become trapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in finding the best course of action to obtain a high gloss/polished/buffed looked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a high gloss you'll need to either A) cut back (even up the current surface and make it uniform) and begin wiping on thin layers of &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5891/how-to-fix-very-light-scratches-in-polyurethane-finish/5893#5893&quot;&gt;wiping varnish&lt;/a&gt; or B) build up the varnish and then sand smooth and buff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First and foremost, is this kind of finish possible with the type of varnish I'm using?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be possible but it's not an ideal candidate, no. Firstly it's a spar varnish, which is inherently a little softer than varnishes commonly used for interior applications (this is intentional, it's what helps it withstand movement when exposed outdoors).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly it's a satin varnish so has some matting agents added (all varnishes are inherently full gloss unless modified in some way). If you want a gloss surface you should use a gloss varnish ^_^&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How many more coats of varnish and/or varnish-oil layers should I apply before stopping?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a &amp;quot;How long is a piece of string?&amp;quot; question because it depends on how thickly you're applying it, whether you remove some or all of the excess and at the end of the day how thick you want it. Short answer is, as many as necessary so that you don't cut through when wet-sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to how to perfect the surface, often referred to as 'rubbing out', the basic process is to build up, &lt;em&gt;wait for it to harden sufficiently&lt;/em&gt;, flatten off, sand smoother and smoother (usually ending north of 1200 grit) and then polish to the degree you want using a choice of polishing agents and processes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This previous Answer has links that cover the process in more detail, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2356/how-do-i-remove-scratches-between-layers-of-polyurethane/2358#2358&quot;&gt;How do I remove scratches between layers of polyurethane?&lt;/a&gt; but there are a great many other guides to doing this online that have been published since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I applied fairly thick coats for both layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just for general reference, it's better to apply a few thin coats than one thicker coat. This is a basic rule of finishing and applies in most cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While thicker coats &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; dry perfectly well (and some finishes are intended to be applied fairly thickly, spar varnish used outdoors being one) often you're better off applying more thinly and using more coats, your drying will be faster and more reliable, and perhaps surprisingly you can actually save time overall — this is particularly the case when it's more humid and/or colder, where thicker coats can take days to dry a very thin coat can dry enough overnight, or 8-12 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2018-04-08T12:10:09.423" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7152" CreationDate="2018-04-08T12:20:49.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;FWIW I wouldn't use wax for anything I wanted to actually be protected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of things you can use here but I think what you'll end up picking is waterbased poly, for the same reason it's chosen by many for driftwood projects — minimal colour change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While barnwood and driftwood projects are often finished matt I'd use a semi-matt or satin here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-04-08T12:20:49.480" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7157" CreationDate="2018-04-08T13:09:50.830" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously the best solution here is to avoid the gap in the first place by careful test-fitting of joints prior to final glue up and then during final assembly using sufficient clamp pressure to close up joints to their full extent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you do get a gap (and everyone does on occasion!) there are of course commercial wood fillers, but it seems the commonest solution given on the Internet is to use a mix of sanding dust from the same species and glue. I wish it were that simple but see this previous Answer:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5873/making-wood-filler-from-sawdust/5878#5878&quot;&gt;Making wood filler from sawdust&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I covered previously, despite claims to the contrary this is almost never a good colour match to the surrounding wood unless you use hide glue. But if you were you'd be unlikely to have a gap like this in the first place since, unlike with other glues, the joint could be opened with careful application of heat and moisture and then the cause of the gap fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Helping to prevent gaps at the shoulder in future&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slightly undercut your shoulders by paring with a sharp chisel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make your mortises a fraction deeper than the tenon is long (also provides a glue reservoir to prevent all excess being squeezed out when you clamp up).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nKKp8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nKKp8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Slightly undercut shoulders&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't apply too much glue as this can cause a hydraulic seal in the joint which can physically prevent the tenon going fully home. You do however need to ensure you use enough adhesive so that all glue surfaces are fully wetted.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-04-08T13:09:50.830" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7163" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7617" CreationDate="2018-04-09T21:32:42.563" Score="3" ViewCount="1980" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This question is a follow-up/continuation to another &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/7153/finishing-buffing-polishing-redwood-slab-with-oil-based-varnish-thinned-with-dan&quot;&gt;SO question&lt;/a&gt; of mine with added detail and hopefully a better explanation of my approach and current state of the board.  The state of the wood slab has evolved even since posting that question and rather than amend that SO question into oblivion I figured best to ask a separate one...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;As reminder, I used &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0027UEW5K&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;spar varnish&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00173CDSQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;watco danish oil&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;It's my first real attempt at wood finishing and made the following mistakes:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;using spar varnish.  I have since learned from my other SO question above that spar varnish is generally too soft for indoor use and not a good varnish to use for a high gloss/polished finish as it likely doesn't buff/polish well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not wiping off excess DO after application and leaving a rather thick film on coats 1,3 (see below application schedule)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not wiping off excess varnish after application (not sure if this is important if used by itself as in layer 2 below) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;excess coating pooling on underside edge and live-edge (evident in pictures below)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;After sanding down the table I have applied the following coats with their respective dry times and mixtures:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;50/50 mix of spar varnish + Danish oil (&gt;= 10 days dry time)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spar varnish (~4 weeks dry time)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;50/50 mix of spar varnish + Danish oil (~48 hrs into dry time) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Current state of the last coat is best described as &quot;tacky/gummy&quot; with strong smell (both reducing as time wears on...).  I'm not sure it's still soft enough to leave finger prints but feels sticky.  Not sure how hard to expect it to feel or how odor free to expect it to become either.  From what I've read at these links a gummy feeling after about 48 hrs after not wiping away excess DO is expected.  Though it's unclear if this will ever harden well enough to buff/polish (crux of this question...): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?145286-Watco-Danish-Oil-Not-Completely-Drying/page2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?145286-Watco-Danish-Oil-Not-Completely-Drying/page2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?172538-Wipe-on-poly-issue-question&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?172538-Wipe-on-poly-issue-question&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/help-please-sticky-danish-oil-67977/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/help-please-sticky-danish-oil-67977/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;However, not entirely sure what I should expect for spar varnish + Danish oil coats...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My end goal is a high gloss/polished/hard/durable finish.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;From the SO question above and it's thoughtful answer as well as considering my mistakes, it seems I have a few courses of action:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Immediately try wiping down last layer (layer 3 above) with a cloth and mineral spirits to thin/remove the spar varnish + danish oil coat.  Then apply 2/3 layers &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5891/how-to-fix-very-light-scratches-in-polyurethane-finish/5893#5893&quot;&gt;wiping varnish&lt;/a&gt;.  Let dry for 24 hrs.  Wet sand 1000,1500,2000 grit.  Then use &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-5-Amp-6-in-Buffer-Polisher-RB61G/205502713&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;power buffer/polisher&lt;/a&gt; in conjunction with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/p/Minwax-1-lbs-Paste-Finishing-Wax-785004444/100376194?MERCH=REC-_-PIPHorizontal1_rr-_-205035475-_-100376194-_-N&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;minwax paste wax&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wipe down with mineral spirits as in 1 above but after that, sand off first 2 coats as well.  I dread doing this as I'm not sure how easy it will be to remove the varnish + danish oil from the live edge.  But if necessary, I'll do it...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Let current coat (layer 3 above) continue to dry and hope that it becomes hard enough to either directly buff/polish or apply successive coats of wiping varnish on top of this layer that I can then buff/polish.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there another course of action that I've missed?&#xA;If no, which of the above would be best to pursue?&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Ideally, I'd like a combination with the best balance of:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;least potential damage to the underlying wood (especially the live edge with it's small amount of inner bark)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;highest quality/high gloss/polished look&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;completion time from now&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a learning experience and ultimately want to know how to get the best outcome out of this piece and how best to avoid these mistakes (considering my desired outcome finish) for future pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pictures here of the current state of the slab top/bottom.  Note the live edge.  Note also that the thickness of coats 2 and 3 combined is apparent when looking at the underside photo (4th below) (not sure if that helps anyone when answering this question).  I applied only coat 1 to the underside, however I applied both coats 2 and 3 to the topside AND to the live edges (even though they face down).&#xA;I'm happy to upload more/different photos if that would help in answering this question!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S3XMo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S3XMo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eGU0m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eGU0m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CVC8E.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CVC8E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TgzGm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TgzGm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/93BPv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/93BPv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3IiQw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3IiQw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4432" LastEditorUserId="4432" LastEditDate="2018-04-09T21:53:43.467" LastActivityDate="2021-08-10T16:58:38.850" Title="Salvaging Failed Spar Varnish/Danish Oil Finishing Layers on Redwood Live-Edge Slab" Tags="|finishing|refinishing|varnish|oiling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7164" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7165" CreationDate="2018-04-09T23:16:31.950" Score="1" ViewCount="5217" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have (very) limited working space and I intend buying a track saw in order to do rip cuts, cross cuts, beveled cuts. I cannot fit a table saw unfortunately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I was wondering, can I cross cut 2x4s using the track saw using the aluminum track?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it make sense? Can I sag the track as most of it would be unsupported? Should I clamp it to some sacrificial scrap wood, below the track, at its ends, in order to prevent the sagging? Should I take totally different route?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastEditorUserId="4942" LastEditDate="2018-04-09T23:24:36.277" LastActivityDate="2018-04-10T17:53:25.720" Title="Cross cutting narrow stock using a track saw" Tags="|technique|circular-saw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7164" CreationDate="2018-04-09T23:36:31.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no reason you can't use a track saw to cut 2x4s if it is able to cut that deep. What I have found very helpful is to get a sheet of foam insulation board (not white bead board) to use as your saw table this gives you a platform to cut on protecting the surface underneath (floor or benchtop). To cut 2x4s just prop up the other end of the track so you're not fighting with it trying to move on you as you cut. While most suited for sheet goods and flooring plunge cuts the track saw is a very versatile saw and easily replaces a table saw while saving lots of space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4817" LastActivityDate="2018-04-09T23:36:31.190" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7166" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-10T12:48:33.853" Score="2" ViewCount="384" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've love to get a nice big 6&quot; jointer but I don't have the space for it so I've been looking at bench top models that I can store when not in use but man are the reviews horrible. On multiple sites I've seen reviews saying that it's actually worse to use a crappy jointer than no jointer at all so I don't want to spend the money and not use it because it doesn't work well. I have a planner and have tried sled method but it's too much work for the amount of lumber I want to mill so a dedicated jointer would be nice. So, is having a cheap bench top jointer better than not having one at all and using alternative methods? Any recommendations? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5018" LastActivityDate="2018-04-10T18:14:04.170" Title="Is a bench top jointer better than no jointer?" Tags="|tools|jointer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7166" CreationDate="2018-04-10T13:40:13.963" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every tool has it's abilities and limitations. The benchtop models do not have the table length and rigidity for jointing long and heavy boards. By using the machines within the range intended you can achieve acceptable results. Where the frustration will come is from trying to stretch the envelope of the machines capabilities and some of the capabilities are quite limited. Because the benchtop models are often designed to a low price point you may find that blade quality is lacking as are other components. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes you can do all of your work with a couple of hand planes and having developed the skill you will have a jointer suitable for infinite length and width boards. Not to mention your arms will have good muscle tone and it is quieter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4817" LastActivityDate="2018-04-10T13:40:13.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7164" CreationDate="2018-04-10T17:53:25.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can certainly crosscut 2x stock with a track saw.  The depth of cut on the TS55 (and most competitors) is just over 2&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll probably want a few things to make the job easier, though.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll definitely want some way to support both your workpiece and the offcut.  This can be as simple as a sacrificial sheet of MDF or rigid insulation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The MFT-3 comes with a fence and rigging to hold a track.  This will let you accurately cut 90-degree angles and support your workpiece.  You'll still need something to support longer offcuts, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also squares that you can attach to the track to allow you to set up more quickly than the MFT-3.  (&lt;a href=&quot;https://tsoproducts.com/tso-products-guide-rail-squares/grs-16-guide-rail-square/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is an example.&lt;/a&gt;)  You can couple this with a very small section of track (cut down from what Festool sells) to use specifically for crosscutting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're mainly going to be working with 2x stock doing rough framing work I'd suggest looking at the HK55 as well.  It's a non-plunging track saw that's attached to the track.  It's specifically designed for crosscutting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2018-04-10T17:53:25.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7166" CreationDate="2018-04-10T18:14:04.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any recommendations? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think most of the alternative approaches are covered in my previous Answer, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2484/methods-of-jointing-without-a-jointer/2487#2487&quot;&gt;Methods of jointing without a jointer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest the hand-tool route as there is so much going for it, but obviously planing is not practical for everyone. Assuming you wouldn't be doing it manually routing would top my list of how to do the job with a power tool other than a jointer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are numerous router jigs and setups out there so you can pick the one that appeals to you most and/or suits the materials you have at hand and the process is fast and as accurate as you could want it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't currently own a router this is as good a reason as any to acquire the most versatile power tool there is! Routers have come down a lot in price over the years so a decent enough one shouldn't break the bank. A minor additional point given most glue joints are stronger than we need but the routed surface can be superior (&lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; be if you do it right and your bit is sharp) to that produced by a power jointer, so bond strength can be better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-04-10T18:14:04.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7170" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7319" CreationDate="2018-04-10T18:59:37.553" Score="3" ViewCount="557" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a 2' x 2' bar table, which will be either supported by a single metal base (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.webstaurantstore.com/lancaster-table-seating-22-x-22-x-41-black-metal-table-base-bar-height/349B0142.html?utm_source=Google&amp;amp;utm_medium=cpc&amp;amp;utm_campaign=GoogleShopping&amp;amp;gclid=Cj0KCQjwnqzWBRC_ARIsABSMVTMzcWA9EzE3jIQgvw54VQZsvt1VSFzfDtmIEMaNP0Wzo5QIE7ye_9kaAp_HEALw_wcB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;like this&lt;/a&gt;) or by wooden legs at the corners. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the table-top, I'm planning on using Poplar from Lowe's in sections of 0.75&quot;x1.5&quot;x2' glued together. The edges will use a lap joint with a dowel through both pieces. It'll look like this (crude drawing warning):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hwhMa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hwhMa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: in either configuration - a center support column or corner legs - would any other structural support be needed for the table top (or is wood-glue enough)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4781" LastEditorDisplayName="user4781" LastEditDate="2018-04-10T19:50:09.550" LastActivityDate="2018-05-16T22:29:10.710" Title="Is wood-glue enough or should I use extra support?" Tags="|joinery|table-making|tabletop|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7171" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-10T19:35:43.877" Score="1" ViewCount="1688" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a set of tools (handplanes, to be precise) currently swimming in a molasses bath for de-rusting. I can find a lot of comparison data with other de-rusting methods, but not so much information on what to do &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; the treatment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears imperative that the tools be treated immediately after being rinsed out to prevent flash rust from forming. But with what? Seasoning them with oil (like a cooking pan)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case it matters, the tools in question have cast iron main bodies with nickel plating, some brass hardware, some screws and spurs/knickers which are possibly steel, and some plane blades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;References:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/vq5IUiYMhRM?t=3m54s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;stop the rust&quot; youtube video&lt;/a&gt;, after rinsing off the molasses, the author brushes on phosphoric acid (&quot;deoxydine&quot;), which seems a bit ironic.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Treating tools for long term storage: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/67/how-can-i-store-hand-tools-so-they-wont-rust/5126#5126&quot;&gt;How can I store hand tools so they won&amp;#39;t rust?&lt;/a&gt; . Not quite what I'm looking for, as it assumes there is already some lasting finish on the tools.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2018-04-12T21:13:41.050" LastActivityDate="2018-04-12T21:13:41.050" Title="How to treat tools immediately after de-rusting treatment (molasses)?" Tags="|tools|tool-maintenance|storage|rust|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7171" CreationDate="2018-04-10T20:18:43.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After cleaning the parts and drying, a light coat of oil will prevent them from rusting. The application of phosphoric acid is to convert any remaining rust to a more stable compound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4817" LastActivityDate="2018-04-10T20:18:43.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7120" CreationDate="2018-04-11T00:07:39.133" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go to a welder (or if you can find one, a blacksmith), and have one made.  The more detailed pictures you bring him, the better the tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="309" LastActivityDate="2018-04-11T00:07:39.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7174" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-11T02:36:21.073" Score="4" ViewCount="1417" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm refurbishing my 70s vintage Black &amp;amp; Decker Workmate. It’s seen a lot of abuse, but the only thing that ever broke, besides working corners of the plywood vise jaws (which I'm replacing) were the screws that held the plywood to the 1/16&quot; metal bracket underneath (2 screws on each jaw, per side). So I'm looking for ideas on a better, stronger method than the manufacturer used. I'm thinking of Ikea furniture I've seen, where they've used a machine screw that screws into the side of a larger tapped shaft, that you insert into a hole that's drilled perpendicular to the machine screw/hole — in my case, a long hole drilled into the vise ends (see photos). Seems to me it might suffer abuse a lot better than a dinky little, 3/4” long, wood screw? Any other suggestions out there? 1/16” metal plate into 1” Baltic birch plywood. I'm excited to hear what other ideas y'all have! Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mrSMW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mrSMW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BpHFz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BpHFz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5020" LastActivityDate="2018-09-10T16:53:37.487" Title="Stronger attachment method for B&amp;D Workmate top" Tags="|screws|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7175" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-11T08:26:58.380" Score="1" ViewCount="1028" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, I want to be able to make the platform of this bed easy to take apart, because I'd like to be able to easily move it by myself. I'd like knock-down fasteners to be used in a way that the frame can be assembled and re-assembled repeatedly without damaging the lumber or hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The picture below is a rough mock-up of the bed frame from the underside.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/imh87.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/imh87.png&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom of The Bed Frame Platform&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a quick rundown on the frame:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a queen size. In the above picture, the brown corresponds to the wood, the light gray corresponds to headboard brackets, and the dark gray corresponds to mounting plates for the bed legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Lumber&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wood will be red oak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The outer boards will be 8/4 (1.5&amp;quot; thick) and 5.5&amp;quot; wide. Two will be 60.75&amp;quot; long and the other two will be ~82&amp;quot; long. The middle inner board is also 8/4 (1.5&amp;quot; thick), but it will be 3.5&amp;quot; wide with a length of ~71&amp;quot;. The skinny strips will be 4/4 (0.75&amp;quot; thick) rails for the bed slats. They'll be joined to the long adjacent boards with biscuits for alignment and screws for strength. (I don't want the rails to be knock-down.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Current Hardware&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The leg mounting plates are approximately squares with 2.4&amp;quot; sides. I'd like to keep them near the innermost corner of the miter joints. If that's not possible, then I'd like to keep them as close as possible to the miter joints by placing them all on the vertical boards (in the picture).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The head board brackets are ~1.5&amp;quot; wide by ~5.5&amp;quot; long. The center headboard bracket will be kept in its place. However, the other two outer brackets can be drawn in more, but I'd like to keep them as close to the edge as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm planning an attaching the above hardware to the lumber with tee-nuts, because threaded inserts with knife type threads do not go easily into red oak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Design Constraints&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would prefer for all of the knock-down hardware to be visible only on the bottom. It's okay if it's visible on the top, but I'd be a bit worried about moisture from the mattress corroding the hardware or damage to the mattress from the hardware. However, if it would be visible from the outside perimeter edges, I will revert to my original plan of using floating tenons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Knock-Down Hardware I've looked at&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cam Bolts and Screws&lt;/strong&gt;: I've looked at a wide variety of cam bolts and screws. However, I'm only interested in ones that have threaded inserts for the bolt as knife type threads do not work all that well in hardwood. I'm currently looking at Cam Bolts with a 6mm diameter. These would be my first choice with metal dowels for reinforcement (if needed).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Countertop Joint Fasteners&lt;/strong&gt;: I've only briefly looked at Rockler's Tite Joint Fastener&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Metal Dowels&lt;/strong&gt;: I was thinking of using these just for extra strength. I'd like them to be of a uniform size, if they are used. However, I'm not sure how big the holes should be for the dowels due to the wood expanding or contracting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;The Question&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will any of the above options work for this bed frame? Would other knock-down fasteners work? Is it completely infeasible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My preferred option would be to run a pair of cam bolts &amp;amp; screws along each joint of 8/4 wood, with metal dowels if they are needed for strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3740" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2018-06-01T03:00:24.780" Title="What knock down hardware can I use on this platform bed frame?" Tags="|joinery|furniture|design|fasteners|miter-joint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7176" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7180" CreationDate="2018-04-11T11:22:57.863" Score="2" ViewCount="382" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just saw &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/7175/what-knock-down-hardware-can-i-use-on-this-platform-bed-frame&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; about how to join pieces of a bed frame in order to dispose and reassemble it without damaging the wood. I want to pose a similar question about a registration studio desk. The reason for a separate question is that joints are to be placed differently from the bed frame, therefore different solutions may be viable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main concerns are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ease of reassemble and structure movement;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stability (firm structure and ability to hold the required weight);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ease of construction (I'm not a woodworking expert).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Material, measures and weight&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty much wood-agnostic and, given my ignorance, would go for the best size-for-bucks option. I'm probably going for fir. I have a Leroy Merlin store available nearby, and am considering having &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.leroymerlin.it/catalogo/tavola-lamellare-abete-27-x-500-x-1500-mm-32469612-p&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a slab like this&lt;/a&gt; roughly cut for me (sorry, I can't find an English Leroy Merlin catalogue, but the image at least should give you the idea).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q4rjw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q4rjw.png&quot; alt=&quot;Quick desk sketch&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The desk board should hover at roughly 32 inches (82cm) from the ground, while the drawer under it should sit at 25.5 (63 cm) inches. The overall depth is supposed to be around 24 / 25 (60 cm) inches as well, while the drawer should be around 12 inches (30 cm) deep. Minimum width for the drawer is 53 inches (140cm), but could go up to 63 (160 cm) depending on considerations about future purchases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drawer is supposed to only support a digital piano and some additional weight from playing, so from 24 pounds up to probably 30 (12 to 15 kgs) or so. I'm not sure if and how to account the additional weight from body pressure during play. The desk board should support at most the same weight of the drawer, as the items I would put there are considerably lighter than the piano itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Methods I've ruled out&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glue and / or naked screws: obviously, glueing pieces of wood with screws makes for sturdy builds, but makes it impossible to disassemble the desk afterwards. Screws can be unscrewed, but 3 / 4 cycles of screwing / unscrewing are going to ruin the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Methods I'm taking into consideration&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood thread inserts: this was proposed as a solution for using screws without damaging the wood. The inserts act as a &quot;fixed&quot; &quot;middle&quot; screw so that the wood is &quot;damaged&quot; only once and actual screws and bolts can be used multiple times without damaging it. Illustrative picture below (the inserts are shown separate from the pieces but they should actually go inside the holes). As far as I understood, I am to use inserts in both wood pieces I want to join, but I'm not 100% sure. Also, do I need to glue the inserts in their &quot;housing&quot; or is the outer thread sufficient for the purpose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3ru33.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3ru33.png&quot; alt=&quot;wood thread insert&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pipe structures: this seems to be a big thing on Pinterest where I looked for reference. Pipes seem to come relatively cheap (even if not fully customizable in size) and are infinitely recombinable. You typically create a structure with pipes in order to support the wood boards, which are not required to hold weight anymore but just to provide some additional binding (and of course the desk top). In this case I was suggested to use a combination of pipes with flanges &quot;permanently&quot; screwed to the tabletop (and the other components) and pipe couplers to connect the flanges with the pipes structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mortise and tenon joints. I saw some videos illustrating how relatively easy and cheap it is to make a mortise and tenon joint and how strong it is. I'm not sure if this joint is safe to disassemble and reassemble, if no glue is used on the tenon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Questions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best joining technique among those I presented for this particular case? Do you know of better techniques I could use? Are there things one needs to be aware of, that a novice might not take into account?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you in advance and sorry if this turns out to be a duplicate, it's just hard to understand what would be the right &quot;reassemble&quot; keyword.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5024" LastEditorUserId="5024" LastEditDate="2018-04-11T14:26:10.063" LastActivityDate="2018-04-11T21:39:28.630" Title="Reusable Desk design: how to join pieces?" Tags="|joinery|tabletop|assembly|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7171" CreationDate="2018-04-11T13:56:47.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;not so much information on what to do &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; the treatment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think part of the reason for that is that it's simply not that critical. Just as with removing the rust in the first place there are multiple approaches to cleaning up the tool or part after the major rust removal. First step is drying off by some method, including speed-drying with a heat gun or in a low oven&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, drying off with rags or paper towels or blowing dry using compressed air&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any or all of these can be followed by spraying on some WD-40 or similar, wiping over with an oily shop towel, &lt;strong&gt;or nothing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some background I've been using molasses solutions for rust removal for about five years now. I don't have a particular problem with flash rusting, although I used to and still do get it sometimes. Regardless and more importantly &lt;em&gt;it's not a problem&lt;/em&gt;, even cosmetically, because flash rusting is extremely superficial and the very next step, that you're probably going to be doing anyway, can easily take it off and stop it from recurring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since things generally come out of rust-removal soaks dull and grey if only rinsed off almost everyone will next do something that will shine up the metal to some degree, and this should simultaneously stop the potential for flash rust. This can be brushing over with a wire brush, rubbing with steel wool, using a wire wheel in a grinder or drill, and sanding of course, including any lapping of reference surfaces you might be doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've exposed fresh steel or iron that hasn't been acted on chemically flash rusting stops happening in most cases. The naked metal obviously needs to be protected but you're going to oil or wax it either right now or in just a few minutes anyway...... right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you intend to paint&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For anything that you want to paint the dull original surface might be just what you want since this provides a superb 'key' for paint or primer to cling to. In this case I think you need to alter your approach:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;as soon as they're out of the molasses solution scrub the parts thoroughly either under running water or in soapy water (rinse well after);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dry off as quickly as possible (do one part at a time, don't put one part off to one side wet and start scrubbing the next);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if necessary wipe over with denatured alcohol (UK: methylated spirits), acetone or lacquer thinner (UK: cellulose thinners) to drive off any remaining water that you can't see;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;prime or paint ASAP.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Does not stop flash rusting (!) but it prevents it building up to a heavier level. Heating the wet steel can &lt;em&gt;instantly&lt;/em&gt; cause it to go slightly brownish in front of your eyes. But as I say, this is really not a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Doing nothing can surprisingly be OK, but the more humid your environment and the longer you intend to leave the piece before doing anything else to it the more you should apply something to the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-04-11T13:56:47.820" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7174" CreationDate="2018-04-11T14:40:53.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly I think you're overthinking this, after all how long does the original screw arrangement last in this model of Workmate generally? It's only once they begin to fail that there's a problem and I presume this takes years and years even with constant use. But I'm all for over-engineering something if it's quick and doesn't cost much! And that's certainly possible with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are multiple ways you could go here, including my first thought which is using through-bolts (the heads recessed in the top) but I think the ideal solution is simply to add more screws. All this requires is drilling a few extra holes in the steel supports. Flip over and drill from above to do this. Keep the old jaws in place to support the brackets and simply drill through. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just one extra screw in each bracket should be enough TBH but if you want to go the extra mile drill two per, for a total of six screws per jaw if you want to also use the original holes but I can't imagine four each wouldn't be perfectly sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just an extra point, you mention in the Comments that you've already bought the plywood but while standard Baltic birch is plenty strong it's not ideal for this type of thing. One great alternative is phenolic ply, which in addition to the phenolic glue used throughout also has films of phenolic resin on both faces, making it incredibly tough and long-lasting and highly water-resistant which might prove useful. I think this is the type of plywood that Paul Sellers uses to line his vice jaws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-04-11T14:40:53.957" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7179" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-11T21:14:16.840" Score="2" ViewCount="301" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am prepping my house to sell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We sanded and stained a window shelf under a Bay Window and the water damaged areas came out too dark. So how should I fix this? Sand again or stripper, or just cover over with gel stain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm reading that I could apply a dilute finish before staining to reduce the blotchyness. But that means getting the stain off of the shelf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trying to limit the level of effort, but match the wood trim in the house.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GzinY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5025" LastEditorUserId="5025" LastEditDate="2018-04-11T23:27:15.327" LastActivityDate="2018-04-11T23:27:15.327" Title="Sanded and stained a pine window shelf... water damaged areas too dark. How to fix?" Tags="|wood|staining|refinishing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7176" CreationDate="2018-04-11T21:39:28.630" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have mentioned in the comments, methods and &quot;connectors&quot; drawn from the &quot;Euro&quot;-cabinetry (aka. flat-pack, knock-down (KD), &quot;modern&quot;, and Ikea-style :) tradition are consistent with what you're asking for and also, interestingly, with the general slabbed style of your piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's been a lot of innovative work done in that realm since WWII, which is where it all started (rebuilding bombed out European cities required cabinetry manufactured on an industrial scale rather than hand-made by carpenters). The usual material is particle board (note there are better and worse grades, you might want better than what Home Depot supplies). Often melamine-coated stock is used, which simplifies finishing. Edge-banding is a big part of the finishing when particle board is used. MDF is also suitable and Formica laminates are also used where more durability is desired. There's no reason you can't use solid wood and that is often done for cabinet doors for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hafele is one of the more accessible suppliers in the US. Have a look at this link to see some of their options. Also a stroll around IKEA is a good way to gather ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hafele.com/us/en/products/furniture-kitchen-living-solutions/connectors-shelf-supports/connectors/00c4d561f3ac98e261a2fcbcc8b0c2de/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.hafele.com/us/en/products/furniture-kitchen-living-solutions/connectors-shelf-supports/connectors/00c4d561f3ac98e261a2fcbcc8b0c2de/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've settled on a connector/fixture type, you may be able to source it online from a distributor, although I've sourced directly from Hafele in the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also some good books out there. I have this one that I like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0806931892&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/Modern-Cabinetry-European-Construction-Techniques/dp/0806931892/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1523482325&amp;amp;sr=1-1&amp;amp;keywords=modern+cabinetry&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2018-04-11T21:39:28.630" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7181" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7184" CreationDate="2018-04-11T21:55:50.517" Score="2" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to refinish a fairly ornate architrave around my front door. I think it is probably around 140 years old and made of solid wood, but I reckon it was most recently refinished in the 1960s. Here is a photo:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pTlFB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pTlFB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ornate decorative moulded architrave&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I sand off the dark stain, I am finding that there are lots of little holes - possibly evidence of an old woodworm infestation - that have been filled in with some white filler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I sand these holes, I am getting black streaking in the direction of sanding:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cCYbR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cCYbR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone help me identify the filler and the marks around these holes, and let me know if there is a way to avoid them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there's a good way to get this filler out and some alternative that I can replace it with I will certainly consider that a good option - I'd like to keep a fairly natural bare wood appearance by finishing with a matte hard wax oil only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5026" LastEditorUserId="2524" LastEditDate="2018-04-12T13:18:10.063" LastActivityDate="2018-04-12T13:18:10.063" Title="Refinishing - how to deal with streaking caused by a filler used by a previous owner?" Tags="|refinishing|filler|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7181" CreationDate="2018-04-12T13:13:49.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That wood is in really rough shape and FYI many pros would advise that it doesn't make economic sense to try to fix it up, although it might seem sacrilegious they'd recommend striping out the old and installing new (if necessary having custom millwork done). I don't like to see old wood head to landfill but I would tend to agree if that one area reflects the condition throughout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I think it would be possible to make the wood look lots better — by cleaning out the old filler (a hellish job), bleaching the staining (IF bleaching works), filling with a colour-matching filler or stainable filler, then refinishing — the labour involved would be considerable and if you were paying someone to do it the cost would, I'm certain, be prohibitive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both options are honestly quite expensive but the first might actually work out to less believe it or not because of the much lower labour cost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'd like to keep a fairly natural bare wood appearance by finishing with a matte hard wax oil only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you need to be realistic here about what condition the wood is in versus what condition you'd like it to be in. As the saying goes, &lt;em&gt;no plan survives contact with the enemy&lt;/em&gt; ;-) While &quot;hard wax oil&quot; (whatever that is, the manufacturers are very cagey about revealing what they're really made from) is fine as far as it goes, like most clear finishes and especially penetrating finishes it's best applied to clean sound wood, which this isn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice, if you feel you have to retain the original wood trim, is to fill divots, prime it, undercoat a cream colour and then use &quot;gel stain&quot; or another coloured varnish on top to make it look somewhat like wood..... possibly not that different to what was done in the 60s! While it may not seem very satisfactory this is probably your fastest, cheapest and best option given the constraints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When I sand these holes, I am getting black streaking in the direction of sanding:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's hard to be certain but I think you're &lt;em&gt;revealing&lt;/em&gt; dark staining rather than causing it. This could be iron staining from the original filler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(Additionally if anyone has any good advice about how to get sandpaper into all those trickly little corners that would also be appreciated.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My oft-repeated advice here is that stripping is preferable to sanding when it comes to removing old finish. This is even on flat tabletops, it goes double for complex mouldings (triple for carvings). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If chemical stripping is not an option for you I would strongly recommend looking into using a heat gun and shave hooks, these are purpose-made finish scrapers that come in various shapes to allow scraping of various profiles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though neither is what you'd call a fun job they're far, far preferable than trying to sand something like this back to bare wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-04-12T13:13:49.590" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7185" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-12T23:15:05.923" Score="4" ViewCount="5612" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let me first say that I am new here but hoping to get an answer for a specific question. I'm not really a woodworker, so your tolerance is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was recently gifted a very nice sword. The handle and scabbard is stained a rich dark coffee colour.  However, with a little bit of sweat on my hand, the colour comes off and soaks into my skin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure what the type of finish is (oil or water, etc.) But the fact it is coming off only when my hands are wet (or moist) is an issue.  Is there a remedy for this problem? Should I seal the stain? If so, what would be the best type of sealant to use, since I might be handling the wood regularly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be much appreciated!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lucian&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5031" LastActivityDate="2020-01-29T22:15:12.060" Title="Wood stain coming off wood onto hands" Tags="|finishing|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7185" CreationDate="2018-04-13T12:43:03.507" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sound like the stain wasn't covered with a 'topcoat' or final finish, which shouldn't ever happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any clear finish that dries hard is suitable for this, including shellac and polyurethane varnish. Both can now be bought in spraycans and although this is generally an expensive way to buy finish it has some advantages for someone in your situation, one of the main ones being you won't need to buy a brush or clean it when you're done (saving having to buy any of the appropriate solvent as well). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need to get some fine sandpaper or sanding sponge as well, 320 or 400 grit should be about right, because after the first coat of a clear finish dries there's often a little texture than needs to be 'knocked back' slightly by &lt;em&gt;gentle&lt;/em&gt; sanding to help achieve a nice smooth surface with subsequent coats. Don't panic when you see how dull the sanded areas look, the next coat will fix that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you haven't sprayed anything before it's worth experimenting a little beforehand by spraying a scrap of wood, or anything you don't care as much about, to get a feel for the spray from the nozzle and how the finish goes down on a surface. Don't aim to build up a full finish in one go, spray light, even coats with whatever interval the can advises.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2018-04-13T20:46:48.893" LastActivityDate="2018-04-13T20:46:48.893" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7187" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7188" CreationDate="2018-04-13T15:05:15.420" Score="3" ViewCount="288" Body="&lt;p&gt;My daughter has these wooden blocks; they're about 5cm on a side. Two faces are machined(?) with various letters, as shown -- and my question is how this face was made?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It doesn't look laser-cut, because the lower surface does not look burned or charred;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It doesn't look CNC machined, because some of the gaps are impressively narrow and would require a ridiculously small machine bit;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It doesn't look &quot;pressed&quot; because that would probably not work on such fine details, but would just squeeze them all flat;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;But then how was it likely done?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got them for free 2nd hand, but I know that (for just wooden toy blocks) these were &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; expensive -- apparently it's some form of name brand, plus the painting is actually very nicely done and the wood itself is a very pleasantly-smelling sort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; Ooh, my wife explained it to me: They're &lt;em&gt;Tree-D&lt;/em&gt; printed!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RDC5L.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RDC5L.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;close-up of wooden block&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5035" OwnerDisplayName="KlaymenDK" LastEditorUserId="5035" LastEditDate="2018-07-14T10:07:20.223" LastActivityDate="2018-07-14T10:07:20.223" Title="What tools were used to make this toy block?" Tags="|carving|toy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7187" CreationDate="2018-04-13T15:56:10.343" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01HYBS73O&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CNC router bits&lt;/a&gt; as small as 1/32&quot; (0.79mm) that would perform such tasks as this toy block. For obvious reasons, the feed rates have to be carefully managed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A skilled operator might create the design for a larger bit to take out the open areas, then perform final passes with the detail bit. If one looks closely at the edge of the cut, it appears there is some roughness consistent with a cutting tool. Due to the tight quarters, it would be near impossible to sand those areas smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not reject a combination of methods. CNC routing for the larger areas, detail bits for closer work, followed by hand cutting. I add the latter because of the sharp points in the corner details that would be impossible even with a 1/32&quot; bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the blocks are expensive, that reinforces the aspect of some hand work. It also allows that the entire block could have been done by hand, with appropriate tools of sufficient sharpness. The consistency of the curves contradicts that concept, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" OwnerDisplayName="fred_dot_u" LastActivityDate="2018-04-13T15:56:10.343" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7190" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-14T00:33:11.477" Score="2" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VaNvh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VaNvh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image[![enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unknown carving tools, wood handles looks like carbon steel blade&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5036" LastActivityDate="2018-04-14T08:37:08.443" Title="I have 3 carving tools and do not know what they are used for" Tags="|hand-tools|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7190" CreationDate="2018-04-14T01:26:49.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a set of three contour scraping tools. They can be used for molding, picture frames or any other wood surfacing involving non-flat surfaces. You might use them for paint removal or wood preparation prior to painting, for areas not easily reached with sandpaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KIDT7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KIDT7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;scraping tool&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2018-04-14T01:26:49.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7187" CreationDate="2018-04-14T01:49:19.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Similar work is normally done on a pin router. In the most common arrangement a router table is fitted with a guide arm that aligns a pin with the blade, similar to a turntable. The pin is captured in a template and the work moved around to duplicate the design. A web search should illustrate a plethora of home made and industrial versions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a similar vein, there were numerous machines for cutting wood block type which allowed for changing the scale of the template. Hot metal typesetters (used for almost the entirety of the 20th century) have a maximum type size. Display types, such as advertising, often had to be cut into wood instead. Even though that's been supplanted by large format printers there was at one time quite a bit of machinery for mass producing intricate wood carvings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best guess is it was cut by a custom made machine provided by an industrial tool maker. Otherwise it was probably a custom carrier/template on a pin router. (Possibly two, one to hog out with a large bit and a smaller second pass for detail.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5037" LastActivityDate="2018-04-14T01:49:19.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7190" CreationDate="2018-04-14T08:37:08.443" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What a coincidence, these are the &lt;em&gt;shave hooks&lt;/em&gt; that I mention in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/7181/refinishing-how-to-deal-with-streaking-caused-by-a-filler-used-by-a-previous-o/7184#7184&quot;&gt;my Answer posted only yesterday&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're intended to scrape paint and other finishes, usually after it has been softened with chemical stripper or by heat supplied by a blowtorch or heat gun. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Poor-quality ones will be quite blunt and don't work well as supplied. Decent ones have a reasonable edge from the factory but even these can be improved upon if honed to a truly sharp edge by hand. Most modern-day shave hooks are soft enough that sharpening can be accomplished using a file, older ones can be much harder and really need to be honed with the same sorts of things you'd use for a chisel. Yours could be the latter type to judge by the well-made handles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-04-14T08:37:08.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7194" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-15T12:47:15.720" Score="1" ViewCount="782" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a 15 year old boy who likes to do basic woodworking. I got an old chisel that I sharped using an old wetstone. It's pretty sharp but there is a small problem. If I try to (I don't know what it's called exactly) cut cross-grain into a marked line, the chisel doesn't cut through the wood but pushes the grains. If I put my chisel with the grain, it goes in easily. Can someone help me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kind regards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5042" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2018-04-17T15:58:36.197" LastActivityDate="2018-04-17T15:58:36.197" Title="Chisel not cutting through grain" Tags="|wood|chisel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7194" CreationDate="2018-04-15T15:05:00.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What wood are you working with? Unintuitively, harder woods are easier to cut across the grain. Softer woods will tends to crush rather than being cut cleanly. Try both oak and pine, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, to achieve good sharpness you typically need to go to high grits when sharpening, which your &quot;old wetstone&quot; probably isn't. You'd want to get to at least 1000 grit, and you'd get noticeable improvement in sharpness all the way to 6000-8000 (I haven't personally used finer compounds, so can't attest to their actual usefulness).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To try out finer grits for sharpening, you can use wet/dry sandpaper at high grits (as high as you can find, big box stores typically carry assorted packs going up to 1000 or more). There are disadvantages to using sandpaper, but the initial cost is very low when compared to good quality stones. Just stick the sandpaper to a flat surface (pane of glass, granite counter top, etc.) and sharpen the chisel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2018-04-15T15:05:00.373" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27" CreationDate="2018-04-16T01:42:01.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have to draw with a ruler on the wood. Next you need to make a little mark on the wood, on the line with your saw and then after that you need to saw on the mark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5044" LastActivityDate="2018-04-16T01:42:01.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2919" CreationDate="2018-04-16T17:41:41.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;None of the answer provide a satisfactory answer as far as my amateur experience is concerned. I am fitting handles to new kithen cupboards and drawers, where there was no predrilling or marking by the manufacturer.&#xA;I started off with Irwin jetpoint bits. I think you wold call them bradpoints as they have a spike in the centre of the bit. It went well but after only 6 holes the bit became blunt and burned. The most successful was my HSS bits which I bought to use for drilling through metal. These I would use with a narrower pilot hole as without the spike the bit could wander even with a bradawl induced starter point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5051" LastActivityDate="2018-04-16T17:41:41.783" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7198" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-17T02:38:47.017" Score="3" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in Malaysia helping my sister in law setup for a dinner party this evening. She has a beautiful 6' diameter table that had some stains on it. She had some eucalyptus oil based cleaner that we used to clean the surface with. The problem came when I was over zealous with the cleaner on the worst stains and it's softened the finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea what the finish is, but I'd guess varnish judging by how sticky my hands are from rubbing in the eucalyptus oil. There are also little balls of finish that come up when I rub it with a dry hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got a ceiling fan running on high trying to cook off the volatiles, but the humidity here is so high that it's taking forever. However there is progress, it's not so tacky anymore, so maybe patience is the correct approach?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My SIL is impatient to get the table ready, and I have no access to my normal tools and solvents back in the US, so suggestions would need to revolve around normal household items. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You guys got any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I've gotten a stay of execution from my SIL, so the table can sit for a few hours (with the fan on high) before it needs to be set. It's still pretty tacky in places, but seems to be drying, albeit, slowly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="268" LastEditorUserId="268" LastEditDate="2018-04-17T03:30:41.883" LastActivityDate="2019-06-12T02:01:35.363" Title="How to speed drying of unknown finish in high humidity?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7199" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-17T14:00:54.793" Score="1" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to find out what this vintage tool is called and how it works?&#xA;What is the tool for? It was found in coworker's dad basement when he was cleaning up the basement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cqgd6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cqgd6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G5Mhg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G5Mhg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W2nmD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W2nmD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5057" LastActivityDate="2018-04-17T14:11:43.070" Title="What is this vintage tool?" Tags="|hand-tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7199" CreationDate="2018-04-17T14:11:43.070" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dressing wheel for bench grinder stones... used to flatten the stones after they get rounded or grooved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2018-04-17T14:11:43.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7201" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-17T18:31:39.797" Score="1" ViewCount="6960" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make many irregular shaped cutting boards. for making smooth edges , I want to use round over bit. because of the round edges , I don't know how to sand perfectly. I just found &lt;code&gt;pipe belt sander&lt;/code&gt; tool. are there any better way/jig for this problem ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2913" LastEditorUserId="2913" LastEditDate="2018-04-17T18:45:11.203" LastActivityDate="2018-04-18T20:49:57.207" Title="How to sand round edges" Tags="|sanding|round|roundover|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1061" CreationDate="2018-04-17T18:57:54.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For most saw blades there is a optimal height range of the blade due to tooth contact when cutting thin materials, and/or when you want rapid cuts. The higher the blade the less teeth would contact the material, and the higher the possible feed rate. This also depends on the spacing of the teeth on the saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever possible, there should be a minimum of 2 teeth contacting the work piece at all times. If you try to feed it too fast in this scenario, the saw blade should gradually slow down until the motor stalls. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets say you are cutting something relatively thin with a low tooth count saw, it would be possible to increase the height of the blade until the thickness of the work piece can fit between two saw teeth. This creates a hazardous condition where you could feed the piece of wood fast enough to violently lock/seize the saw and damage the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If too many teeth contacts the work piece and the angle is very shallow you have a increased risk of lifting the work piece off the table, usually due to feeding it too fast. This would be a kick-back risk because then the material could then twist and bind the saw blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ideal saw blade height would usually be the height where 2-4 teeth are contacting the work piece at the same time during a cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This really only applies to the common saw blade tooth shapes, without a feed speed limiting tooth safety feature.&#xA;Some saw manufactures have a built in feed limiting tooth profile, it looks like a tail or ear behind the carbide, it is to prevent the blade from taking too big a bite out of the wood. These feed limiting tooth designs are also commonly see in chainsaw blades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you can cut with a safety guard on, use it. Less worry about how a large exposed blade is more dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="453" LastEditorUserId="453" LastEditDate="2018-04-17T19:03:43.073" LastActivityDate="2018-04-17T19:03:43.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7203" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7204" CreationDate="2018-04-17T20:32:15.000" Score="1" ViewCount="2346" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-POF-1200-AE-Router/dp/B001E4EJ5S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1523996563&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=Bosch%20POF%201200%20AE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bosch POF 1200 AE&lt;/a&gt; router which is nice and I like it.&#xA;However I do not understand (and could not find on the internet) what are these three additional holes in the base plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are they for? (see red arrows)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bosch-do-it.de/media/garden/gardenmedia/manuals/1178408_160992A201_201408pdf..pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;user manual&lt;/a&gt; doesn't seem to mention them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v5mJt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v5mJt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the holes go up to the other side&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FGZAn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FGZAn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/02PxZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/02PxZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastActivityDate="2018-04-17T21:52:46.843" Title="What are these holes in the router base plate for?" Tags="|router|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7203" CreationDate="2018-04-17T21:38:38.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's so that you can screw other stuff to the base. This might be official attachments (some manufacturers make these for doing things like cutting out certain shapes etc.) or it might be some kind of self-made guide jig for example. It can also allow you to fix the router into a &quot;router table&quot; setup or similar. Basically any time you want to fix something to your baseplate or attach your router to some fixture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of this might be for cutting out large circles or ellipses, like this ellipse jig which fixes to a board and also to the router base:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6IZv7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6IZv7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This particular one is from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.trend-uk.com/en/UK/product/ME_JIG/3/190/mini_ellipse_jig_set_.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Trend Ellipse jig&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and there are also other kinds of jig on Trend's site.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also &quot;universal&quot; sub bases sold which look like this one: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kp6MH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kp6MH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically this has holes in just about every combination you could ever need, in order to find the right holes for your router and for a particular attachment. In this way you can often make jigs and attachments which were made for (for example) a Makita router work with a Bosch router and so on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes these holes are also to attach things to the top of the base such as a dust collar for a vacuum/extraction attachment but in your case you already have one fitted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastEditorUserId="272" LastEditDate="2018-04-17T21:52:46.843" LastActivityDate="2018-04-17T21:52:46.843" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7205" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7206" CreationDate="2018-04-18T00:05:58.543" Score="6" ViewCount="418" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to make MANY 6&amp;quot; holes using a router.  If I use a 5/16&amp;quot; template guide and a 1/4&amp;quot; straight bit, what size hole must I make the template?  I don't have much scrap to experiment with.  My gut tells me I need to divide the difference of 5/16&amp;quot;-1/4&amp;quot; in half and then add that to the radius of the circle... but that sounds wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5006" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2021-09-26T22:27:23.430" LastActivityDate="2021-09-26T22:27:23.430" Title="How to create a 6&quot; hole template with a 1/4&quot; bit and 5/16&quot; template guide?" Tags="|router|router-bit|template|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7205" CreationDate="2018-04-18T00:10:41.377" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the link below...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Figuring template offset&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Offset is the distance from the outside of the guide bushing tube to the cutting edge of the router bit. This dimension determines where the bit cuts the workpiece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To figure the offset, measure the outside diameter (OD) of the guide bushing tube and subtract the diameter of the bit. Next, divide this figure by 2 to determine the offset. In the example at right, subtract the 1⁄2 &amp;quot; bit diameter from the bushing's 3⁄4 &amp;quot; OD. You get 1⁄4 &amp;quot;. Now divide this number by two and you arrive at a 1⁄8 &amp;quot; offset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XVsoi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XVsoi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;drawing of how to calculate template offset&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/routing/understanding-guide-bushings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Understanding Guide Bushings - WoodMagazine.Com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5059" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2021-09-26T22:26:57.250" LastActivityDate="2021-09-26T22:26:57.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7207" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-18T14:30:11.710" Score="2" ViewCount="1265" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a silverware box out of walnut and would like to make the bottom (also walnut) sit flush with the sides. Any suggestions...? Was thinking of a dado in sides and rabbet in bottom - sides are 1/2 inch and I can make the bottom 1/2 inch also. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm worried about wood movement if I glue in the bottom, any suggestions appreciated. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5063" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2018-04-18T17:06:20.383" LastActivityDate="2018-10-12T05:33:51.873" Title="how can I make a flush box bottom" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7208" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7313" CreationDate="2018-04-18T14:52:10.560" Score="3" ViewCount="4479" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm designing a pirate treasure chest out of stained/varnished softwood.  All the best pirates have brass-bound treasure chests, and I'll be using brass fittings, reclaimed decorative ones if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than real brass-binding though I'd spray-paint hardboard, but how tight can I bend it for the domed top?  I'm expecting a radius of about 180&amp;nbsp;mm (depth 360&amp;nbsp;mm).  This would be the normal 3-ish&amp;nbsp;mm hardboard sold in UK DIY shops, and I've got plenty of time on my hands to bend it wet and let it dry, but I don't want it to crack.  I reckon it would crack if I tried to bend this radius dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a model (Inventor) of what I'm intending to build (without handles/latch).  All the flat &quot;brass&quot; is hardboard (real brass is either heavy and expensive or thin enough to have sharp edges).  The visible screw heads (I'm not sure how many I'll use yet) are decorative (no.8 x 1/2&quot; slotted brass) with structural screws and glue hidden under the bands. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PfHkW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PfHkW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its 480mm (W) x 360mm (D) x 575mm (H)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2018-04-27T14:32:52.963" LastActivityDate="2018-08-16T20:27:19.870" Title="Minimum bend radius for hardboard" Tags="|board-materials|bending|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7207" CreationDate="2018-04-18T16:01:01.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You pretty much answered your own question about making the bottom flush.  Dado the sides and make a rabbet in the bottom that is as deep as the distance from the bottom edge of the side to the dado.  Be sure to calculate this distance carefully so that the dado width plus the distance to the edge is the same as the thickness of the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as wood movement, if your bottom is solid wood you will have to leave space and not glue it in place to allow for wood movement.  If you don't want to do this you will need to use plywood.  If you want to match species you could always do a shop-sawn veneer over plywood or MDF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2018-10-12T05:33:51.873" LastActivityDate="2018-10-12T05:33:51.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7208" CreationDate="2018-04-18T17:21:03.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you will have a problem bending 3mm hardboard especially in the narrow binding strips. You will have better luck bending dry than wet as wet the board will swell and come apart. If you can use a ratchet strap to pull the strip down to the chest lid I think you will lessen your chances of cracking. Gluing will cause cracking less than nails or screws will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4817" LastActivityDate="2018-04-18T17:21:03.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7207" CreationDate="2018-04-18T17:34:10.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Was thinking of a dado in sides and rabbet in bottom &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes that's one good way of doing it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also dado the sides only. I'm not sure with a small box whether there's any negative to doing it this way and it saves on setup time and machining/shaping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm worried about wood movement if I glue in the bottom&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't necessarily an issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the small size movement is pretty small anyway — the narrower a piece of wood is the less movement you need to account for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted to help with this you can select a piece of quarter-sawn walnut for the base and with that the movement will be even smaller, by approximately a factor of two, but bottom line is that there are many boxes made which have solid-wood bottoms (and tops) glued solidly to the body which don't exhibit problems due to expansion and contraction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To not have to worry about movement at all you could of course use plywood or veneered MDF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About having the bottom flush, if you have difficulty dialling in the exact settings for the join don't sweat it too much, the bottom doesn't have to be absolutely flush after assembly. It can be easily be made flush by hand planing after the glue has set, or even by sanding. But visually some people like it when the sides of some boxes don't sit right on a surface, so there's a 'shadow line', and one way in which this can be achieved is by having the bottom project slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-04-18T17:34:10.060" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7201" CreationDate="2018-04-18T20:49:57.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A well-executed roundover should require very little sanding. I might start at 240 grit. You can back your sandpaper with a sponge or wad of cloth so that it will conform to the edge even better than your hand will. A sharp bit and a light touch are key. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will note, though, that rounding over plywood edges can be problematic. The layered surface of plywood doesn't always make a smooth surface for the bearing to glide over, and the alternating grain of the layers can leave you with some tearout, even creating voids at times. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I would think twice about using plywood for cutting boards if you mean them for food preparation. Plywood's veneer layer may be good quality wood but the layers are joined with adhesives which are not necessarily food safe. By rounding over the edges you are almost certainly exposing more of these adhesives to contact with food. With a countertop or table, you can protect with a polyeurethane finish and come away with a food safe surface, but this won't work well on a cutting board that's going to see a lot of direct knife contact. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5066" LastActivityDate="2018-04-18T20:49:57.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6691" CreationDate="2018-04-18T20:55:46.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I were in your situation, trying to figure out the grit of some unmarked diamond stones, I would get the iron out of my plane, put it in the angle guide, and mark the edge of the blade with a sharpie. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I'd see how many strokes it took to remove the sharpie, and I'd check frequently to see if I could discern any linear marks from the abrasive. On coarser grits you will see some linear marks but at high polish grits you'll just get a mirror surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compare the results with some different grits of sandpaper and you should be able to get a reasonable idea of how the stones will function, if not precise grit counts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5066" LastActivityDate="2018-04-18T20:55:46.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7214" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7215" CreationDate="2018-04-18T23:00:44.357" Score="1" ViewCount="183" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are good telltale signs of solid wood vs veneered furniture that you can identify from a picture?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, the hutch below?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yFoac.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yFoac.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5067" LastEditorUserId="5067" LastEditDate="2018-04-19T01:16:20.353" LastActivityDate="2018-04-19T01:16:20.353" Title="How do you tell whether a piece of furniture is veneered?" Tags="|wood|furniture|veneer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7214" CreationDate="2018-04-18T23:20:21.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks like plywood to me.  It's pretty hard to tell without a better photo, but here's what I'm seeing...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The panel on the left of the photo appears to be three bookmatched sections, but I can't quite tell if they're close enough to be veneers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The front edge of that panel appears to be edge banding, but without a higher resolution image or a shot from underneath the curve (where end-grain would be exposed) it's hard to tell.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bullnose profile on the writing surface is applied as a separate piece from the panel.  If this were solid wood you'd just roundover the panel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The pulls look like they are separate pieces instead of being carved directly into the panels.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2018-04-18T23:20:21.173" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7216" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-19T02:48:32.713" Score="13" ViewCount="1804" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'm building this bookcase. Birthday/wedding present for my middle child.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QZRm1.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;picture mine, lo res render from Rhino3D&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QZRm1.png&quot; alt=&quot;bookcase&quot; title=&quot;picture mine, lo res render from Rhino3D&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sides are bamboo (originally supposed to be hotel stair treads)&#xA;6' x 11&amp;quot; x 1&amp;quot;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Horizontals are African Mahogany. 10.5&amp;quot; x 1&amp;quot; x variable length.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Sides lean out @ 15 degrees. 11&amp;quot; spacing between the shelves.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Total weight of the bookcase is ~105lbs. Add 100lbs(?) of books.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw this design online a few years ago, and &lt;em&gt;of course&lt;/em&gt; cannot find it again to see how he did it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tools and skills&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typical homeowner tool selection. Drills, table saw, circular saw, Kreg pocket jig, a dozen big clamps, router, sanders.&#xA;Not averse to buying something new to get this done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Skills = just on the unskilled side of 'medium'. I can build a mean deck.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Aircraft mechanic and computer programmer (engineering mindset).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Degree of difficulty - the vertical sides cannot be replaced. I only have the two, and so cannot screw up any holes or cuts.&#xA;The shelves, I have spare material and can get more. At $7 bd/ft, my wallet would cry, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How to join the horizontals with no visible means of support?&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;No visible stiles, braces, brackets...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current thought is pocket screws from under each shelf, into the bamboo sides.&#xA;I have enough extra mahogany to create enough sawdust to mix with glue and plug the pocket holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondary thought is screws from the outside of the sides, into the end grain of the shelves.&#xA;This also involves somehow covering over the screw holes with matching (something).&#xA;Of course glue with whatever solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the off angles, I'm not sure I could pull off dovetails or mortise and tenon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other joinery options?&#xA;Convince me why pocket screws will not work or are a bad idea.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After much cutting, swearing, and sanding...figured you guys would like to see the finished product in its forever home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WLS29.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WLS29.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In answer to the actual &amp;quot;question&amp;quot;, I went with dowels.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3/8&amp;quot; x 2.5&amp;quot; long, through the side panels.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GFuTh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GFuTh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Added in progress:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Full size mockup with cheap 1x2&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8ElQD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8ElQD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side panel strength:&#xA;70&amp;quot; span, supported only at the ends, 195lbs of me in the center. 12mm sag&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xz5iH.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xz5iH.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glued and drying:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MAIgB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MAIgB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In its forever home, loaded with 100+ hardback books.&#xA;Look Ma! No collapse!&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LUjXu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LUjXu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5069" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2018-08-27T00:51:55.843" Title="How to join at an angle?" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7218" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-19T18:27:16.430" Score="2" ViewCount="422" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of my friends came to my shop and asked me to make him a pizza serving tray . I cut 19mm birch plywood to desire shape and paint it only with OSMO oil. after a month he send me this picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mxuIN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mxuIN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;plywood seed tray - problem 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NE4vt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NE4vt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;plywood seed tray - problem 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what happened exatcly , but I think after rounding corners with router , the top veneer layer got weak and detached after a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;my question : Is the brich plywood an accetable selection for making these types trays ? &#xA;if yes , Can Polyurethane color &lt;code&gt;kind of seal&lt;/code&gt; the whole part and privent these types of damages?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2913" LastActivityDate="2018-04-19T19:03:47.467" Title="is plywood a good choice for serving tray?" Tags="|plywood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7218" CreationDate="2018-04-19T19:03:47.467" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the reasons you've mentioned, no not really, at least not in the way you've made it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to route into it then you're opening edges up on the different layers and they're going to be prone to splitting. If you use some sort of substantial lacquer to seal it afterwards then it may prevent some of this. Polyurethane might work but you'd have to try it I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mostly when plywood is used for things like trays it is moulded - the plywood is steamed and pressed into a mould to take on a shape, like this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NDoBP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NDoBP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This design means that you don't have any extra edges (apart from of course around the perimeter). They're typically lacquered to increase durability too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2018-04-19T19:03:47.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7220" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7234" CreationDate="2018-04-20T19:05:39.357" Score="2" ViewCount="1043" Body="&lt;p&gt;My family just chopped down an old silver maple tree in their backyard.  It has some great branches that are about 2-3 inches.  We thought that slicing them and cutting them up into thinner pieces to make a some nice drink coasters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plan is to have a nice bare tree look with them.  The bark is thin on these in this area.  We want it to have a nice natural look, and possibly something to show off the rings of the tree.  Nothing dark, nothing that will change the color/hue too much.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There won't be a need to make it food safe, as its just for cups and glasses.  They will potentially be used outdoors on the patio.  I would like them sealed so they will retain their look for a long time.  However, I also don't want anything that will smell (in case they are used in the house or in the enclosed patio room).  Something that would also stand up to the elements (to some extent) if they are left out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is do you think that they need any type of finish on them?&lt;br&gt;&#xA; And if so, what kind what do you suggest?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Should these also be dried out, and if so for how long before a finish?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know some of this might be opinion based, and I appreciate everyone's opinion and thoughts on that.  Overall, looking for a what works best, and what is a good thought on sealing a wooden coaster that is sliced from a tree branch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2936" LastActivityDate="2018-04-24T14:22:01.090" Title="Wood Coasters from Tree Branch finish" Tags="|finishing|wood-drying|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7221" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-22T01:31:26.437" Score="1" ViewCount="391" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to use a plough plane (stanley #45) to cut dadoes (cross grain). The spurs/knickers are useful in preventing tearout and defining a clean knife wall, but they score past the bottom of the dado, like in the following image (dado profile outlined in red).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is obviously due to the knickers cutting ahead of the iron, but if push the iron further out to a depth equal (or close to) the spurs, the operation of the blade is much less smoother -- broken shavings, and at the far edge, it results in breakout. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IZpUym.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IZpUym.png&quot; alt=&quot;outline of dado&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iuvlum.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iuvlum.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;right-hand-side spur&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, is there a way to produce perfectly rectangular dado profiles with this tool? Would one re-adjust the depth of the blade relative to the spur, or are spur marks to be expected regardless?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2018-10-16T07:39:33.640" LastActivityDate="2018-10-16T07:39:33.640" Title="Can I avoid spur / knicker marks in dado bottom cut with plough plane (stanley #45)?" Tags="|traditional-techniques|hand-planing|dado|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7222" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7225" CreationDate="2018-04-22T15:38:53.987" Score="0" ViewCount="599" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on a live edge coffee table.  The two long sides are the live edges and look great, and organic, and natural.  The other two sides are boring, flat cuts.  I want to make the two short edges look as beautiful and organic as the live edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have considered going at it with a jigsaw, set to 20 - 30 degrees, and sawing in a curved line.  That should give it a nicer, more organic shape, and match the slop of the live edges, but it's still just going to be a boring, flat cut.  What can I do to make it look more organic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought a draw knife might be some help here but I can barely get a ruffled corner out of it.  I assume a chisel will not actually work as rock chips when chiseled (giving the appearance I'd like), but wood does not.  I'm working with a cherry slab that ranges between 1.5&quot; and 2&quot; thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2018-04-22T19:09:50.750" Title="How do you create an organic or chiseled edge on a wood slab?" Tags="|technique|chisel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7223" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-22T16:19:20.200" Score="3" ViewCount="9942" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been considering creating a set of gaming dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would need to create 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 and 20 sided dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is I have no idea what would be a good way for getting the dimensions/sides even.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please provide an example of the best way to do this using the 20 sided die as an example. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="212" LastActivityDate="2022-11-24T12:40:54.110" Title="Creating gaming dice from wood" Tags="|design|cutting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7224" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-22T16:24:41.770" Score="4" ViewCount="1144" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a trestle style farmhouse table base out of cedar for outdoor use.  The tabletop is 3/4 inch granite on 3/4 inch plywood subbase.  The dimension of the base is 33 x 72 and the table is 36 x 77.  How can i know if the base will support the top.  I am using 2x6 and it will be like the attached photo in design.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nZnBC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastActivityDate="2018-04-23T02:29:57.117" Title="Will table base hold granite top" Tags="|design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7222" CreationDate="2018-04-22T19:09:50.750" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get a semi-organic result by using an attachment to the common right angle side grinder, if you are confident of not amputating a limb:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00004RHL6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wood carving cutting attachment&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9oth9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9oth9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;wood carving cutting attachment&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These devices are available from many sources, including HF, although that seems risky in itself. Most side grinders have substantial power to spin the cutter and allow you to contour the edges as you desire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;chip size&quot; is going to be small, but more easily controlled than would be the case if you used a chain saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few videos on the YTube of people creating artwork from raw wood. One such video offers other tools, but seems to focus on this specific model:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/mdvPOQmQhfg?t=1m43s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/mdvPOQmQhfg?t=1m43s&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2018-04-22T19:09:50.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7226" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-22T19:21:36.980" Score="3" ViewCount="1394" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fellow woodworkers,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently, I bought a semi-professional #7 jointer plane, which doesn't mean much by my country standards, since we get Chinese rip-offs that are sold under famous brand names (and prices). Nevertheless, it was the best I could get and afford.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Naturally, this jointer needs a lot of work before it can be used. One of the sides is at a perfect 90° to the sole, however, the other one is at about 87° to the sole (meaning that the sides are not parallel). If I'll ever have to use it on shooting board, I'll use the good side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p9ysq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p9ysq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the big problem is that the sole is nowhere near flat. The shape is concave along the length, and somewhat across too. I have a calibrated granite block, so I placed some 60 grit sandpaper on it, crossed the sole with marker, and then started &quot;planing&quot;. After 5 hours (not exaggerating) of sanding, I gave up, because I'm nowhere even close to flattening it - there's just way too much material to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the photos of the progress of flattening, taken about once every hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4neud.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4neud.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ho0fx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ho0fx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1DuWj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1DuWj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/41GcM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/41GcM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, at first, the progress was good, but as I went on, the contact surface increased, meaning there's more and more steel to grind. By the end, I realized this is going to take forever, likely longer than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though the marker pattern indicates that the ends and the sides of the sole have been flattened, placing the jointer against flat granite revealed that the ends are still way too high. I have no idea why the sandpaper didn't fix the ends - maybe it isn't pressed against granite well enough, springs up, and follows the concave shape of the sole?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rXUhg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rXUhg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I'm looking for an alternative way to flatten that sole, because doing it traditionally is neither accurate, nor fast enough. My arms are killing me already from all that grinding. I would appreciate any suggestions you guys might have...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4999" LastActivityDate="2018-04-22T20:45:23.467" Title="Trouble flattening a #7 jointer plane" Tags="|jointer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7223" CreationDate="2018-04-22T19:51:34.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm unable to process the mathematics involved, but that doesn't make it an impossible task. You can use it as a foundation to consider one option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 20 sided die is an icosahedron. All vertices of the 20 faces lie on the surface of a sphere. This is the foundation of a geodesic dome, but that's only slightly relevant. You should be able to find the math for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.domerama.com/calculators/1v-geodesic-dome-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a single frequency geodesic dome and have the calculations&lt;/a&gt; available for this application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What that means is if you can find a wooden sphere of 5 cm, the above-noted calculations would give you the chord lengths for each &quot;strut&quot; of the geodesic sphere. In your case, the strut length corresponds to the edge of the die faces. The calculator shows 2.628 cm for an edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Set an ordinary drawing compass to that measurement and place an arbitrary starting point on the sphere. Mark an arc in the direction of the next vertex. Place the compass center on that arc and create another arc crossing the original starting point and another in the approximate location of the third point. Repeat until you have two arcs at each location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SYmKM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SYmKM.png&quot; alt=&quot;compass drawn triangle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference between this triangle and one drawn on flat paper is that the lines connecting them will not be straight, but will be curves along a great circle of the sphere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be challenging to draw straight lines on the curved surface. Consider instead to create clear marks for each vertex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the math is correct and the precision of the compass is sufficient, you should be able to pepper the sphere with these points. The progression should result in some points being coincident to previously created points. If not, there's an error. Adjust the compass, erase the previous points and begin again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think it's going to be easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If hand tools are your only resource, you'll want to clamp the sphere in such a way as to place three of the points level to the earth. A hand plane, a file/rasp and sanding blocks applied in a careful manner will allow you to remove the wood that is above the first selected triangle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've completed one of these 20 faces, reposition the sphere, level the next three points and make sawdust from the ball.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a friend with a machine shop and a CNC milling machine and some CAD/CAM skill, see what he thinks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 12 sided die requires regular pentagons, removing the easy compass answer. I would consider to build a pentagon shape in thin plastic to match the math and trace faces on the sphere with that as a template. That method seems more hit-and-miss than a compass and triangles.  One can create triangles with a compass that results in a pentagon, if you have the math right and the patience. I found a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mathopenref.com/constinpentagon.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;slideshow presentation&lt;/a&gt; for creating pentagons with a compass, but it's for flat areas and would be useful only for creating a template.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ten sided dice appear to be unusual in that they are not regular polyhedron shapes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/khI5Q.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/khI5Q.png&quot; alt=&quot;ten sided die expanded&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above image shows the unfolded shape of one such die. It is not even a five sided or six sided &lt;em&gt;regular&lt;/em&gt; polyhedron joined together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a laser cutter and would create masks/templates, but create a half-dozen with 1 mm variation and see how well they fit when traced on the ball. It would probably be useful to sand away previous marks for those tests that don't fit until you get to a working template.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a mini-mill for flattening the shapes, but the clamping aspect would be insane. It would require a special jig to hold the sphere as the job progressed, removing portions of the ball each time. I suppose that once you get a pair of parallel faces, things would get a bit easier, or maybe not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2018-04-22T19:51:34.080" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7226" CreationDate="2018-04-22T20:00:45.670" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having a friend who previously owned a machine shop gave me a slightly different perspective on this question. I checked &lt;a href=&quot;https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?783-Surface-Grinding-a-plane-sole&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Google&lt;/a&gt; and found that my thought isn't all that far &quot;out there.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone in the above link has posted that he had a machine shop use a surface grinder on his plane to get to within 0.01&quot; of flat, as well as squaring the sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's some discussion about performing the grinding with or without the frog plate and blade in place, but that seems to be personal opinion with a bit of anecdotal evidence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a small job shop in your area, you may find a shop owner willing to take on your task for a reasonable fee. My friend would have been shooting for better than 0.01&quot; as he typically managed 0.0005&quot; for his CNC stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2018-04-22T20:00:45.670" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7226" CreationDate="2018-04-22T20:45:23.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Filing and scraping are the traditional ways to flatten a cast iron surface by hand. These processes will be significantly faster than &quot;sanding&quot; on a surface plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Done well, a scraped surface can easily be within .001&quot; flatness and even .0001&quot;. I also find scraping really satisfying, although I'm glad I don't need to do it to pay the bills (it takes time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rough idea is that you spread marking medium, like Dykem Hi-Spot Blue in a thin layer on the surface plate, rub the surface on that, and then scrape off all the areas that marked blue (the &quot;high&quot; spots). You do this over and over until it all marks blue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few excellent videos on this:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YvZFOyo63Ks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Restoration/Tuning of a block or hand plane to highest accuracy w. files, scrapers, edge &amp;amp; plate&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QJXqHpSh3SE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Scraping basics - Scraping flat - Part 1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xHT-uzKQM6U&amp;amp;list=PLmI5bzwEK7NLVTyhnnMoAjj2hYOh4dJjw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hand Scraping - How I do it.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several others if you search on &quot;metal scraping&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process can be started on a budget, making marking medium from oil and pigment, or certain types of artist oil paint (clean off carefully each time if you choose this route :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A scraper that kind of works can be fashioned from a file, but something with at least high-speed steel on the cutting edge is much more effective. The edge is sharpened at a 95 degree included angle (negative rake), which may seem a bit odd at first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A file may be used for roughing. Alignment is a problem with filing and it's very, very easy to round over the part (sole in this case). So be careful if you choose this option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, assessing bottom flatness by tipping the sole onto an edge, as you do in the last picture, is only valid if that far side is perfectly flat. The bluing/transfer-marking approach will give you more reliable indication, or you can slip feeler gauges underneath while it's sitting on the surface plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2018-04-22T20:45:23.467" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7224" CreationDate="2018-04-23T02:18:38.627" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Weight wise your table will easily handle the load. I am more likely to be concerned about the span but the plywood  will help. A stringer running between the trestles would be a big help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4817" LastActivityDate="2018-04-23T02:18:38.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7221" CreationDate="2018-04-23T02:23:17.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once you get close to your final dept, remove the spurs and you can score the corners with a matte knife (like the spur) but stop short of the ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4817" LastActivityDate="2018-04-23T02:23:17.960" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7224" CreationDate="2018-04-23T02:29:57.117" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am concerned about setting a granite table top on a base of this design.  The issue is not so much the weight of the granite which is 12.8 psf, but the brittleness of the granite and its inability to span any distance between supports.  Granite does not deflect, it breaks and it has many natural fault lines in the its matrix that are weaker and could break under smaller forces.   The most common application of granite tops is found in kitchens in which the span is usually less than 24&quot; and there is still a risk of it breaking if someone sits or stands on the surface. In any event, while the plywood below is a very good idea, it will not provide adequate support for any span. It needs additional support below, much as a floor of a house has a framing supporting the plywood. Ideally you should consider constructing a top frame at least 3-4: thick with span widths no greater than 12&quot;-18&quot; in one direction and 24&quot; in the other.   Once you have a support platform for the granite top, the type of table base shown in the photo should be more than capable of supporting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last consideration, will you bullnose the ends to hide the plywood? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2018-04-23T02:29:57.117" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3008" CreationDate="2018-04-23T04:40:17.807" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/3009/3259&quot;&gt;keshlam&lt;/a&gt;, but I want to share other info on the other aspects of your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The carcass is the main framework, or body, of the object. It is what remains after you strip all coverings, doors, front-face panels, frames for these panels, and (non-structural) shelves. It is the framework of a structure, and is generally not seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &quot;frame&quot; would be part of the carcase if the word was employed in the general sense of &quot;chassis&quot; or the &quot;structure&quot;. The word &quot;frame&quot; can also describe a particular form of construction/joinery, as explained in the next quote.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The European cabinet example you have shows a frameless carcase (a.k.a. &quot;full access&quot; cabinet) -- the door panel hinges are attached onto the carcase directly. The American one has a face-frame -- door hinges are bolted on a face trim which is itself attached to the carcase. The term &quot;frameless carcase&quot; would suggest that frames could be part of a carcase, but it would be more accurate to say that they are rather &lt;em&gt;attached to it&lt;/em&gt;, like in American example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finewoodworking.com/1976/12/01/carcase-construction&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fine woodworking&lt;/a&gt; makes an even more clear-cut distinction between frames and carcases:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Furniture construction is broken down into two main categories: frame and carcase. In frame construction, relatively narrow boards are joined—usually with a mortise and tenon joint—as in a chair or table base, or in a frame and panel door. (See Fine Woodworking, Summer 1976.) In carcase construction, boards are joined end to end using dovetails, tongue-and-groove joints and the like, as in a drawer or hutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Where do panels fit?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That quote above doesn't mention panels as being a category. The word &quot;panel&quot; can ambiguously mean a series of (one or more) boards side by side forming a flat surface. Or it can mean a decorative pane. For instance, each of the constituent faces of the box that constitutes a carcase is itself a wood panel. So whether the back panel of a kitchen cabinet constitutes integral part of the carcase would depend on its function being structural or not, like keshlam mentions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In other contexts:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The form &quot;carcase&quot; (&lt;em&gt;plural&lt;/em&gt; &quot;carcases&quot;) is closer to Middle English spellings. The form &quot;carcass&quot; (&lt;em&gt;plural&lt;/em&gt; &quot;carcasses&quot;) is cognate with the French &quot;carcasse&quot;. &quot;Carcase&quot; may be more common in varieties of British English than it is in US English. (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/carcass#English&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't recall encountering the spelling &quot;carcase&quot; outside of woodworking texts, e.g. to designate the remains of a burnt building, or of a turkey dinner, or cadaver. But, apparently usages in older texts are found for both spellings in all the possible different definitions and terminologies. So neither is specific to woodworking, nor does there seem to be definitions covered by one spelling, but not by the other -- with the exception perhaps of &quot;carcass&quot; as an early incendiary projectile device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as other uses of the word go, within the realm of woodworking, aside from (1) the carcase of a cabinet, and (2) carcase construction mode, I haven't found anything interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Popularity of Carcass vs Carcase, in English texts over time &lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.com/ngrams/graph?content=carcase%2Ccarcass&amp;amp;year_start=1600&amp;amp;year_end=2000&amp;amp;corpus=15&amp;amp;smoothing=3&amp;amp;share=&amp;amp;direct_url=t1%3B%2Ccarcase%3B%2Cc0%3B.t1%3B%2Ccarcass%3B%2Cc0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;from Google-N gram&lt;/a&gt;, all definitions combined:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YjI5z.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YjI5z.png&quot; alt=&quot;carcase vs carcass&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2018-04-23T06:07:16.823" LastActivityDate="2018-04-23T06:07:16.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7220" CreationDate="2018-04-23T12:34:06.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My question is do you think that they need any type of finish on them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's vital, yes. The top and bottom surfaces of slices like this are all end grain, and unsealed end grain is absorbent like a sponge. Even the slices that dried without cracking to begin with have the potential to crack and/or warp again each time they get damp or wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;And if so, what kind what do you suggest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I think wax is the way to go here. I normally prefer finishes like varnish that dry hard, but for this the wax can be soaked into the wood in a very simple way that doesn't require any complicated or expensive setup. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy an inexpensive wax such as canning wax, or any other pure paraffin wax. You could use beeswax but it generally costs a lot more and there's no benefit here AFAIC, and it's usually yellowish to orange in colour while paraffin wax is white. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Melt the wax carefully over a low heat or in a double boiler/bain marie.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once the wax is fully melted submerge the slices one at a time until they stop bubbling. They'll want to float, so you'll either need to hold them under with tongs or something or place something small and heavy on top to keep them submerged.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once bubbles have ceased to be released from the wood this should indicate that it's absorbed as much wax as it can take so remove them, wipe/scrape as much excess wax from the surface as you can and put aside to cool.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once they're at room temp you can scrape any remaining wax from the surface, buff them with a cloth and they're ready to use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should these also be dried out, and if so for how long before a finish? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with all wood drying, you do it as long as is necessary to get the wood down to a suitable moisture level. Without a moisture meter I think the only way to check this is to weigh them until they stop losing mass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other option would have been to stabilise the wood in PEG or Pentacryl but I believe this needs to be done immediately after cutting to be effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-04-23T12:34:06.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7223" CreationDate="2018-04-24T05:57:26.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issue, as you probably already know, is not one of drawing regular polygons, but one of shaping regular polyhedrons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are five regular polyhedrons made of equilateral triangular faces, square faces or regular pentagonal faces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They can all be created without ever constructing any of the component polygons.  The trick is in knowing the angle between the faces (known as dihedral angles) and then setting your saw blade to the appropriate angle and your miter gauge to the appropriate plane angle (or its complement) associated with each poylgon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Easier said than done, but certainly requiring some sort of fixtures or jigs to pull off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The respective angles are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;polygon   polygon    polyhderon  dihedral   &#xA;sides     interior   faces       angle(deg)  &#xA;          angle(deg)&#xA; 3          60         4          70.53&#xA; 4          90         6          90.00&#xA; 3          60         8         109.47&#xA; 5         108        12         116.56&#xA; 3          60        20         138.19&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you entertaining thoughts of creating a fair die, the angles must be accurate. However, as noted in comments, a wooden fair die is unlikely to stay fair very long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Please provide an example of the best way to do this using the 20 sided die as an example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This particular request is absolutely the most difficult of the 5 because at some time you will be cutting with your workpiece resting on a relatively small triangular base which is inherently unstable.  You will need to devise a fixture that holds the workpiece in such a way that your hands are nowhere close to the saw blade and the workpiece is stable.  I would not recommend that anyone other than an experienced woodworker even attempt it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even the seemingly easy tetrahedron will undoubtedly have several failures before an acceptable die is cut.  I recommend that you master each of the smaller four (even cubes can prove to be a challenge) before entertaining the construction of an icosahedron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you cut the dice, you will want to smooth their faces, but as soon as you begin to sand the size of faces will be changed due to the removal of material. If you do not sand exactly parallel to the triangular faces, they will quickly be notably no longer equilateral.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2018-04-24T05:57:26.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7220" CreationDate="2018-04-24T14:22:01.090" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest problem I see with your plan is that discs cut from a branch as mentioned are going to be chronically bending and warping even after they are properly dried out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One option you could consider is casting them in clear (or colored for that matter) resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would be a pretty simple process for what you are planning you simply need a dish slightly deeper and wider than the disc. Once coated in resin you can trim the edges and sand/buff it smooth and shiny.  Realistically they should pretty much last forever...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="212" LastActivityDate="2018-04-24T14:22:01.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7237" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-24T16:03:34.510" Score="0" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to design a board game coffee table and really bashing my head against the wall with this one. Some features I'm looking to get:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Smaller foot print ~3'x3' (this is lax)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Expands to 6'x'4 playable area&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Space for drinks, various other materials needed beyond 6'x4'&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not an eyesore &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nice to Have:&#xA;1. Gaming pit or &quot;cellar&quot; aka, the playable area is recessed down a few inches so that you don't lose dice, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first idea was to have a clamshell like design where it would be 4x3 and open up to 6x4:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4OKxD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4OKxD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My second idea was to have a system the slides the leafs outwards revealing more playable area below:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lpouj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lpouj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not a huge fan of either of these ideas. What clever, space saving ideas do you guys know of? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="387" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2018-04-24T17:55:31.383" LastActivityDate="2018-04-25T20:23:12.517" Title="Board Gaming Coffee Table?" Tags="|design|table-making|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7238" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-25T02:55:37.787" Score="3" ViewCount="1211" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replacing my ground level deck boards and the framing lumber underneath just got soaked with rain. I don't know if the frame is PT or KD, but it is supposed to rain on and off the next few days so I am going to tarp it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the frame be okay (sides were always exposed to rain, just not tops where boards were held in place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will tarping cause too much humidity when drying?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5087" LastActivityDate="2018-04-26T00:47:58.767" Title="Replacing deck boards, frame got rained on" Tags="|framing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7237" CreationDate="2018-04-25T20:23:12.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The slide open option would only give you the cellar on the middle half. The clamshell would need a weird support. Instead, take the clamshell idea, cut it in half, and have two of them opposing each other. The two sides would balance each other, so no additional supports would be needed, though it will have some risk of tipping if someone leans hard on an end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the additional space for drinks, etc, cut t-tracks all along both long edges and make attachments that fit into them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4773" LastActivityDate="2018-04-25T20:23:12.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7238" CreationDate="2018-04-25T21:35:14.367" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's probably fine. As long as they could drain successfully afterward and didn't sit waterlogged for long periods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5066" LastActivityDate="2018-04-25T21:35:14.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7216" CreationDate="2018-04-25T21:38:01.817" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another vote for dowels here. It's about as easy to use dowels as it is to fill pocket screw holes with dowels. Just dowel the joints and skip the pocket holes, or use both. Screws aren't a great option for shear-strength - I wouldn't rely on screws to hold up a shelf without dadoes, supporting rails, dowels, or something more structural.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's your plan for controlling parallelogram stress here? Usually a back panel is the option. Without something like that, you need very serious joints. Pocket screws don't cut it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5066" LastActivityDate="2018-04-25T21:38:01.817" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7238" CreationDate="2018-04-26T00:47:58.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume that your deck had gaps between the deck boards for drainage, in which case you would clearly see deterioration in the framing lumber if it wasn't treated.  Examine the deck framing for any deteriorated boards, or corroded hangers for replacement before placing the new deck surface.  Don't worry about it getting wet, even untreated lumber in house construction gets wet during construction with no adverse affects (it simply dries out as the structure is enclosed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2018-04-26T00:47:58.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7243" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-26T02:07:41.247" Score="2" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to take up the hobby of wood carving/whittling . I watched a few videos but theres none that start from very basic instructions. I would like to make things from branches of different sizes frim the woods . I can identify pine n ithers so know which is hard or soft wood .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What i am asking is for helpful tips on carving that can help me build my skills and confidence to do bigger and bigger projects . Let it be noted i want to do this all with basic handtools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5091" LastEditorUserId="5091" LastEditDate="2018-04-27T23:52:48.930" LastActivityDate="2018-04-27T23:52:48.930" Title="Woodcarving where do i start?" Tags="|carving|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2018-04-27T12:38:53.167" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5921" CreationDate="2018-04-27T01:27:14.830" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go for extra pure Tung Oil. It penetrates the pores and hardens. First coat should be thined in order to penetrate more, subsequent not thined. BR.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5093" LastActivityDate="2018-04-27T01:27:14.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7243" CreationDate="2018-04-27T02:51:44.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may be a stupidly obvious answer, but get a good, solid pocket knife, and just start carving wood with it. Whittling is one of the lowest barrier-to-entry hobbies there is. Making something (anything) will teach you enough to pick out your next project, and you can expand your tools from there to match your purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you must buy a tool, Narex makes a &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B010W7ND4U&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;good basic carving knife&lt;/a&gt;. Another option is one by &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01BVRSOVW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pfeil&lt;/a&gt;. Flexcut's &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.japanwoodworker.com/products/set-of-9-palm-tools?via=58923197617070231a00002d%2C58923197617070231a000032&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;palm tool set&lt;/a&gt; is good for the next step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you're a beginner, you should also buy a kevlar or spectra cut glove for your non-cutting hand, and maybe a thumb and finger guard for your cutting hand. You may find that you don't need these after some experience but they will save you a lot of bandaids when you're first starting out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3562" LastActivityDate="2018-04-27T02:51:44.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6947" CreationDate="2018-04-28T10:54:48.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is veneer, I am thinking that the oil based stain may have acted as a solvent on the adhesive bonding the veneer to the substrate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5097" LastActivityDate="2018-04-28T10:54:48.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7249" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7252" CreationDate="2018-04-28T23:15:06.603" Score="3" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to reuse an older crosscut sled.&#xA;I will have problems with using the old cut for the blade so I googled for a solution and I came across a couple of complicated designs with replaceable zero inserts. Those would add another piece of plywood on top of the one that makes the sled base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since my fences are very solid (both front and back) I could practically cut out the piece of plywood 1&quot; or 2&quot; to the left and right of the blade cut and install a replacement screwed to the fence as shown below. Wood nuts will be installed int the fence and then I will use screws to attach a new insert every time I need a new one like below and then make a new cut. I wonder what I am missing since I never seen this simple design&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wimlh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wimlh.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="497" LastActivityDate="2018-04-30T12:20:12.280" Title="Can this be a very simple cross cut sled with replaceable zero inserts?" Tags="|sled|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7250" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7251" CreationDate="2018-04-29T11:24:09.043" Score="1" ViewCount="395" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm an IT'er with some experience in woodworking, looking to build his own backyard porch. It should eventually look something like this;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OBczw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OBczw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pondering now on how to make the connection between the large top front beams. They measure 200mm x 200mm and ideally I don't want to see any screws or bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I want to do:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wBOJe.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wBOJe.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;There should be two lag screws in each of the notches on either end of each beam that connect them to the vertical support. I can then fill the notch with a custom fit piece of wood. I can then also screw the custom fit piece to the beams for extra support from the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think this will be strong enough? Are there any better idea's I'm missing? I find it hard to find any good resources on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5099" LastEditorUserId="5099" LastEditDate="2018-04-29T11:33:07.023" LastActivityDate="2018-04-29T23:15:13.173" Title="Invisible join between two 200x200 beams on a support" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7250" CreationDate="2018-04-29T23:15:13.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of problems with your proposed design. Before you refine your design to conceal fasteners you should consider the structural needs that must be addressed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The beam across the front should act as a single continuous beam to hold the entire roof frame together.  The construction of must be similar to any wood floor roof framing system. That means you cannot break the beam all the way through at each column. Part of the beam should be continuous at every point of its length.  This can be accomplished by using multiple framing joists nailed/screwed together.  a couple toe-nailed fasteners inside the column openings will not be adequate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The columns should attach to the beam at the top for the full height of the beam with multiple fasteners across its intersecting height.  The frame may have a tendency to rack and the connection of the columns and beam are the only way you can resist the lateral forces.  For the same reason, the right end should be securely attached to the building wall at the right and at the back.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Although you do not discuss this in your question, the  column bases must also be secured to a foundation of adequate depth for your climate to avoid any frost heave and to prevent anything that could bump it from moving the columns.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it is possible to achieve these requirements without fasteners, the techniques require experience and skill.  Rather than avoiding fasteners, you may want to consider concealing them.  In wood framing of this size, you could easily recess connection bolts and provide wood plugs or artfully placed trim to cover the connections.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2018-04-29T23:15:13.173" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7249" CreationDate="2018-04-30T12:20:12.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This will work. This is how mine works. People like to make things very complicated... a lot of people like making jigs more than anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2018-04-30T12:20:12.280" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7253" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7254" CreationDate="2018-04-30T14:16:02.173" Score="0" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ive been searching online for a few days on places to buy 3 or 4mm sheets of wood. My only 2 requirements is that it should be at least 3.6m long and no more than than 5mm thick. Am i right in thinking that the only way is to have these made at a saw mill? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5101" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2018-05-01T15:57:40.417" LastActivityDate="2018-05-01T15:57:40.417" Title="Where can i buy really long and thin sheets (ie.4000l x 100w x 4mm) of wood in the UK?" Tags="|lumber|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7253" CreationDate="2018-04-30T15:51:51.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll struggle to get anything like this from any of the big DIY stores (Wickes, B&amp;amp;Q etc.) and you'll most likely have to go to a timber supplier such as Brooks Brothers, Howarth, Latham Timber, Timbmet or similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be able to find a local timber merchant who will supply you with some pieces of this size but you'll find a lot of those are ultimately just resellers for some of the large national timber merchants I've listed above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2018-04-30T15:51:51.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7253" CreationDate="2018-04-30T16:01:21.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This doesn't sound like it would be that difficult to make.  You're talking about something 4&quot; wide, 12'+ long and 1/8&quot; thick...You should be able to resaw that on a band saw or even a table saw.  The hardest part will be surfacing the cut off the band saw.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A drum sander would help get you to exact thickness if you need to be precise/consistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2018-04-30T16:01:21.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7111" CreationDate="2018-04-30T19:07:44.627" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oh goodness! Your cherry is blotching when stained? Heavens!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry. Couldn't resist. Cherry is famous for blotching. Here's &lt;a href=&quot;https://thefinishingstore.com/blogs/news/dealing-with-the-cherry-blotching-problem&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a decent article.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it states, the usual approach is a wash coat of sealer (such as shellac) to make the absorption more uniform. Your contractor didn't do this, as it would add another step (and more cost) to their finishing process. And even then, blotching can still happen, although it will be reduced. Particularly if your cabinets are not exposed to sunlight, the blotchiness will diminish with age but not disappear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="463" LastActivityDate="2018-04-30T19:07:44.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7216" CreationDate="2018-04-30T21:24:23.943" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest setting your shelves into the uprights with a dado joint. You'd rout a channel into the uprights for each shelf, and bevel the ends of your shelves at 15 degrees. It would have as much glue surface as a mortise and tenon, and you'll get a rock solid joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did something similar 20+ years ago for the steps in a ladder for a set of cherry bunk beds.  (I know, I know :-). You can see the wear and tear in this picture, but the joints never budged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QRbQD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QRbQD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this design, the steps project out beyond the uprights, so the dado goes all the way through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like your shelves are set flush in the back and inset back a half inch in the front.  So you'd have to rout the channel &quot;blind&quot; in the front, and square it off with a chisel.  Overall, it's a bit more work than dowels, but it would be significantly stronger. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck with whatever you decide to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4862" LastEditorUserId="4862" LastEditDate="2018-04-30T21:40:33.617" LastActivityDate="2018-04-30T21:40:33.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7258" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7260" CreationDate="2018-05-01T02:39:17.860" Score="1" ViewCount="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old softwood tree in my garden and I want to make a &lt;strong&gt;display&lt;/strong&gt; staff and cane out of some of its branches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are display pieces that will &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; be used outdoors and that I want to make very shiny. My goal is maximum preservation and presentation. Something that will last &lt;strong&gt;forever&lt;/strong&gt; and look amazing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems for each step different materials can be used, and I don't know which is best suited for a display stick, and I'm also wondering if I should harden it. Can someone talk me through the steps and provide the &lt;strong&gt;best&lt;/strong&gt; materials and methods for my stated purpose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After cutting the wood and I have to seal the ends immediately. What &lt;strong&gt;should&lt;/strong&gt; I use to seal and where do I go from there? How long should I leave it to dry (I have plenty of time - is a year to dry the optimal choice for a &lt;strong&gt;display&lt;/strong&gt; staff and cane?). Should I harden it before or after drying? Where do I go from there? And what maintenance does it need to last forever?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I do &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; want to add any carvings or color to my sticks and want to preserve but round any knobs or protrusions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the reason I ask here on Stack Exchange is because I've read umpteen websites telling me umpteen different materials and methods on how to make &lt;strong&gt;walking&lt;/strong&gt; (not &lt;strong&gt;display&lt;/strong&gt;) sticks but need an expert opinion to help me choose which of those materials and methods is the best for a &lt;strong&gt;display&lt;/strong&gt; stick&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5103" LastEditorUserId="5103" LastEditDate="2018-05-13T11:03:23.330" LastActivityDate="2018-05-13T11:03:23.330" Title="Display Softwood Staff &amp; Cane" Tags="|softwood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7259" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-01T08:48:32.807" Score="1" ViewCount="986" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two slabs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;redwood&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;some kind of hard wood that I think resembles a red gum wood&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have coated them in &lt;code&gt;Danish Oil&lt;/code&gt; and this coating has been allowed to dry for over 10 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My long term goal is a smooth texture with high gloss.  So my plan is to apply &lt;code&gt;wipe on poly - clear gloss by minwax&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To this end, I've been using the underside of each slab as a test bed for the topside of each slab.  Currently, I'm practicing the technique of applying wipe on poly and building up a film.  I've applied 8 coats to the underside of each slab and am noticing that the pores/grain in both are still evident and tactile.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below are two images of the underside of each slab respectively (after 8 coats of wipe on poly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With an eye to the road ahead, specifically the topside processing of each slab I have the following questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I need to just keep applying poly until the pores/grain fill?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If &quot;no&quot; to (1) above, is it possible to apply a pore/grain filler over Danish Oil?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If &quot;yes&quot; to (2), what are recommendations for manufacturer/product/color to use on each of the slabs?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If &quot;no&quot; to (2), will buffing and then polishing using a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.walmart.com/ip/Finishing-Paste-Wax/21469752?wmlspartner=wlpa&amp;amp;selectedSellerId=1194&amp;amp;adid=22222222227016797360&amp;amp;wl0=&amp;amp;wl1=g&amp;amp;wl2=c&amp;amp;wl3=52574386751&amp;amp;wl4=pla-81182831124&amp;amp;wl5=9031968&amp;amp;wl6=&amp;amp;wl7=&amp;amp;wl8=&amp;amp;wl9=pla&amp;amp;wl10=112550058&amp;amp;wl11=online&amp;amp;wl12=21469752&amp;amp;wl13=&amp;amp;veh=sem&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;paste wax by minwax&lt;/a&gt; post-applying 7 or so wipe-on-poly layers fill the pores/grain?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If &quot;no&quot; to (4), any alternatives not mentioned?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Redwood:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lhaNa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lhaNa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;redwood slab&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Red gum:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vmLXL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vmLXL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;red gum slab&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4432" LastActivityDate="2018-05-01T08:48:32.807" Title="Pore/Grain Filler Over Danish Oil" Tags="|polyurethane|oiling|filler|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7258" CreationDate="2018-05-01T12:43:35.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My goal is maximum preservation and presentation. Something that will last &lt;strong&gt;forever&lt;/strong&gt; and look amazing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing lasts forever. But if the rest of your lifetime will do you you're in good shape ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood by itself can be pretty surprising in how well it lasts indoors, look at the structural pieces in the attic of almost any older house for an example. And that's with nothing at all applied to it and regular baking during the summer months and freezing during the winter. Add some finish, and a certain amount of ongoing care, and something made from wood can last and continue to look good for generations as many heirloom furniture pieces demonstrate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After cutting the wood and I have to seal the ends immediately. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't have to do this with branches and slim saplings, they're commonly dried just as they come from the woods, sometimes even with the bark left on. And contrary to the usual advice for wood converted to boards, they're frequently dried upright and not laid horizontally&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What &lt;strong&gt;should&lt;/strong&gt; I use to seal and where do I go from there? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do want to seal the ends there's no one thing you must use, but the best thing for the job is melted wax. Any wax will do, including that from cheap candles if that's all that is available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that sealing the end grain is to slow drying, so this automatically means you have to wait longer for the wood to be ready. Much stick material is dried without the ends being sealed partly so it doesn't take as long, and slim stock 'in the round' like this just doesn't crack as much as much thicker stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How long should I leave it to dry (I have plenty of time - is a year to dry the optimal choice for a display staff and cane?). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long is a piece of string? The wood dries until it's ready to use, and how long that takes depends on all the possible variables. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's rare that patience isn't rewarded when drying wood, both speeding the process and using wood too early can have negative consequences. So if you can wait more than six months and as much as a year you're unlikely to regret it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Where do I go from there? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After drying, cutting to length and any shaping or smoothing work you want to do the wood is ready for finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a finish you can use anything you want, literally anything you've heard of used in wood finishing will create a shiny surface. Shellac or oil-based varnish are good choices as they aren't expensive, are commonly available and easy to apply to a high standard, and additionally they're both longer lasting than lacquer so I'd pick them in preference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;And what maintenance does it need to last forever?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regular dusting is the best thing you can do for wood as ongoing care, and the &lt;em&gt;occasional&lt;/em&gt; wipe down using a damp cloth can be beneficial if required. With periodic waxing&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; to help protect the surface of the finish you could typically expect any finish to last many years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that possibly refinishing every few decades, but the finish used and the environment dictate how well a finish endures. Note that shellac is much easier to top up, or remove and replace, than varnish if ever needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Don't know why, and I don't know whether it actually makes a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; NOT oiling. Avoid all oil-based furniture polishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-05-01T12:43:35.330" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7261" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7262" CreationDate="2018-05-01T16:12:29.163" Score="6" ViewCount="268" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whilst looking for router bits I came across 2 different types of tongue and groove bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Set A&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This set I call normal&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kl3hU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kl3hU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;normal router bits&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Set B&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;are these strange ones&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yclfD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yclfD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;strange router bits&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;There is only £1 difference in price, so I am wondering &lt;strong&gt;what the pros and cons are for each type&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2509" LastEditorUserId="2509" LastEditDate="2018-05-02T09:28:04.400" LastActivityDate="2018-05-02T15:52:31.873" Title="Difference in tongue and groove router bits" Tags="|joinery|butt-joint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7261" CreationDate="2018-05-02T12:34:09.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h1&gt;Short Answer&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like @Graphus' comment where he/she states that Set B is mainly intended as shown in the image, for attaching solid-wood trim to the front edge of plywood or other manmade boards.  However if you are using these bits for jointing solid-wood, there are applications where Set B &lt;strong&gt;could&lt;/strong&gt; be better than Set A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;More surface area within the joint = stronger joint&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;therefore&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;For pulling mechanical forces&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Butt joints&lt;/strong&gt; are ever so slightly stronger with &lt;strong&gt;Set A&lt;/strong&gt; (although I doubt much practical difference)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Corner Joints can be&lt;/strong&gt; stronger with &lt;strong&gt;Set B&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;For flexing mechanical forces, Set B wins all round for strength&lt;br&gt;(in certain situations)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h1&gt;Detailed answer&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a detailed answer we need to look at the properties of the joints possible with each set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Butt Joints Set A&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to answer this question more effectively, I have found dimensions for this set of bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8NdRr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8NdRr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this set, you will have a joint plane length of 1&amp;frac34;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&amp;frac14;&quot; + &amp;frac12;&quot; + &amp;frac14;&quot; + &amp;frac12;&quot; + &amp;frac14;&quot; = 1&amp;frac34;&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Butt Joints Set B&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now this is a bit more complicated and takes me back to my geometry classes in school.  To help us with this I looked at the demensions marked up on the wood joint image provided.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rdXWt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rdXWt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The squared bit of the tongue and groove seems square, so for arguement sake, we will treat it as square.  That part of the joint has three &amp;frac14;&quot; planes to make a total of &amp;frac34;&quot;.  For the slanted parts, this is the bit which uses geometry.  I could get this to display better if I could &lt;a href=&quot;https://math.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/5020/mathjax-basic-tutorial-and-quick-reference&quot;&gt;use MathJax&lt;/a&gt; within the writing of this answer, but here goes...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you create an imaginary triangle behind the top slant, the horizontal part would be equal to &amp;frac14;&quot; and the vertical part would be 0.375&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1&quot; - &amp;frac14;&quot;) &amp;div; 2 = 0.375&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The slant is calculated using pythagorus therorum &lt;strong&gt;'The square on the hypotenuse is equal to the sum of the squares on the other two sides'&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so, the slant equals the square root of &amp;frac14;&quot; squared + 0.375&quot; squared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;0.25&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; = 0.0625&lt;br&gt;&#xA;0.375&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; = 0.1407&lt;br&gt;&#xA;0.0625 + 0.1407 = 0.2032&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;therefore the length of the slant equals&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&amp;radic;0.2032 = 0.4507&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because there are 2 slants, that gives a total joint plane length of 0.4507&quot; + 0.4507&quot; + &amp;frac34;&quot; = 1.6514&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This is slightly lower than one tenth of an inch less than Set A so not a lot of difference.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Corner Joints Set A&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with butt joints, you will have a joint plane length of 1&amp;frac34;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&amp;frac14;&quot; + &amp;frac12;&quot; + &amp;frac14;&quot; + &amp;frac12;&quot; + &amp;frac14;&quot; = 1&amp;frac34;&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Corner Joints Set B&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now this is where Set B is much better than Set A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am no good at drawing, but if you can picture in your mind the way the joint will be produced, if you are corner jointing a piece of wood which is at least an inch thick, that piece can be routered so that you can use the &amp;frac12;&quot; depth available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LFe1S.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LFe1S.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will give you a total joint plane length of 2.1514&quot; &lt;strong&gt;(0.4014&quot; more than Set A)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0.4507&quot; + 0.4507&quot; + &amp;frac34;&quot; + &amp;frac12;&quot; = 2.1514&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Corner Joints with Set B would be weaker when using wood less than 1&quot; thick under the same flexing mechanical forces.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2509" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2018-05-02T15:52:31.873" LastActivityDate="2018-05-02T15:52:31.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7263" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-03T15:35:03.427" Score="1" ViewCount="289" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a large chunk missing from this dining table and I'm worried it is unrepairable. If it can't be repaired, could you explain why? &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ikleu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ikleu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5107" LastActivityDate="2018-08-13T06:01:12.940" Title="Is this reclaimed wood repairable?" Tags="|wood-repair|reclaimed-wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3805" CreationDate="2018-05-03T19:57:35.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;At least one manufacturer &lt;a href=&quot;http://siso.dk/products/fittings-for-outdoor-furniture/steamer-chair-fittings/brass-fitting-f-steamer-chair--ratchet-235mm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;calls them &quot;rachet steamer chair&quot; fittings&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gNqXb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gNqXb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;BRASS FITTING F/STEAMER CHAIR, RATCHET 235MM&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Credit: Siso Denmark, from the link above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5109" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-04-01T20:17:20.737" LastActivityDate="2020-04-01T20:17:20.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7265" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-03T21:43:49.667" Score="2" ViewCount="384" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make this, but am not sure how to start. If start with a live-edge log, how would I make the length-wise cuts? I have access to a table saw, band saw, jointer, and planer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jeNkJ.jpg]&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jeNkJ.jpg]&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2236" LastActivityDate="2018-05-04T16:48:49.513" Title="How to cut a live-edge log lengthwise at an angle?" Tags="|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7265" CreationDate="2018-05-03T22:37:49.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start by attaching (screwing or nailing) the log to a board (or a piece of plywood), so that one edge of the board is overhanging the log and the other edge is short of where you want your cut.  You may have to use wedges to make it stable.  It may also help to attach another board of the same thickness to the other side of the log.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put the overhanging edge of the board against your band saw's fence, then position the fence so that the blade lines up with your desired cut location.  Proceed to make the cut by guiding the board against the fence.  It will help if you're using a resaw blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to do this a lot you should consider making a sled that runs in the bandsaw's miter slot for this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately, mill one surface flat on the jointer, rest that surface on the bandsaw's table and cut a straight line by eye (snapping a chalk line would help).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For cuts at an angle tilt the saw's table or position the log on the sled at an angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2018-05-03T22:42:58.393" LastActivityDate="2018-05-03T22:42:58.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7267" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7268" CreationDate="2018-05-04T12:36:37.130" Score="2" ViewCount="2934" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen dowels, dovetails (and other joinery techniques), glue and many more used for joining pieces of wood but metal screws, brad nails and metal, in general, is usually avoided.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastActivityDate="2018-05-04T16:19:06.150" Title="Why is metal avoided when joining wood?" Tags="|technique|joinery|traditional-techniques|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7267" CreationDate="2018-05-04T13:33:41.833" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tradition plays a large role in it, but generally metal fasteners aren’t ideal:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Screws are strong, but unattractive.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brads and other small nails are too weak to hold joints under much stress&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Metal dowel will expand and contract at a different rate than the wood eventually loosening the joint&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wood glue doesn’t work on metal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are plenty of workarounds and alternatives to the issues presented, but wood is plenty strong to join with and the techniques are well established.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastActivityDate="2018-05-04T13:33:41.833" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7269" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-04T13:45:32.950" Score="2" ViewCount="3630" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two beautiful canoe paddles that I would like to hang in a criss cross shape on my wall. What is the least intrusive way of doing this, considering I do not have any woodworking experience, and don't want to drill more holes than necessary into the drywall :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you kindly also include the tools necessary for the project? The only reference I found was this...but I don't like the Velcro approach. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://theinspiredroom.net/2014/03/17/hang-oars-k-paddles/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://theinspiredroom.net/2014/03/17/hang-oars-k-paddles/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was hoping I could drill some supporting pieces into the wall and then try to balance the paddles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5113" LastEditorUserId="2524" LastEditDate="2018-05-04T14:09:16.163" LastActivityDate="2018-05-04T15:46:27.857" Title="Hang paddles on the wall in a X shape" Tags="|storage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7269" CreationDate="2018-05-04T15:46:27.857" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't mind drilling holes (tool needed, hand drill, either power or manual) in the shafts of the paddles, you can construct a simple brace/bracket that will minimize the holes drilled into the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6qrE9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6qrE9.png&quot; alt=&quot;paddle bracket&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bracket would be two pieces of wood, crossed at the desired angle. Holes drilled at the ends would accept dowels of appropriate diameter, glued in place. Make the dowels long enough to go nearly all the way through the paddle shafts, but not quite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be a good work flow to build the crossed pieces from two layers, as you don't have a dado blade for the table saw you don't have. You can then join them in a cross and have the same level for the dowels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mjQdk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mjQdk.png&quot; alt=&quot;paddle bracket 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drill fairly small holes in the ends, not dowel sized, and place the cross-bracket on the paddles. Mark through the holes onto the paddle shafts to enable you to accurately drill for the dowels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would purchase a paddle bit for best results, although a more expensive forstner bit will also suffice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F9pXg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F9pXg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;paddle bit&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note in the picture above that the paddle bit has a center spur. You would not want to drill into the paddle shaft so deeply that the spur extends to the other side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ozcQM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ozcQM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;forstner bit&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Forstner bit has a smaller spur and also would produce a cleaner hole, but is two to three times more expensive, unless you buy lower quality drill bits. I did, once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of these are one inch diameter bits. You would use one inch diameter wood dowels cut to the necessary length and glue them in the holes drilled in the aforementioned brackets. There will be some slop depending on how steady you are with the drill. Urethane glue (Gorilla glue) will expand to remove some of the play. Once cured you would drill through the bracket for wall mounting and of course, drill the matching holes on the paddles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also approach the work flow by moving the bracket over the paddles after having drilled the holes but prior to applying the glue and using the bracket as a template/frame to hold the drill, drilling through the bracket into the paddle shafts, to ensure alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also that the paddle shafts will engage the bracket at different levels and the dowels for the outer shaft will have to be longer than the dowels for the inner shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will be necessary to use some adhesive method to hold the paddle shafts to the bracket. I think the 3M Command Adhesive strips are your best bet there. They can be removed when necessary and will hide behind the shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2018-05-04T15:46:27.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7267" CreationDate="2018-05-04T16:19:06.150" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of woodworkers enjoy the challenge of building stuff using only wood. There are greater and lesser degrees of this. Some people go so far as to build &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/topics/36361&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;hinges&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/projects/195402&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;latches&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/projects/30254&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;locks&lt;/a&gt; out of wood, for example, though by tradition, most woodworkers metal hardware for these elements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To expand on the points &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/7268/283&quot;&gt;Coreyward made in his answer&lt;/a&gt;, the traditional techniques are largely what they are because of what was available at the time the traditions were started. Mass produced screws are a relatively recent phenomenon; the Robertson head screw was invented in 1908, and the Phillips head in the early 1930s. The flat head screws available before that were more expensive and harder to use. (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thoughtco.com/history-of-screws-and-screwdrivers-1992422&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Traditional joinery uses tools commonly available in a wood shop for other purposes already. For example, dowels are easy to use and &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1077/how-can-i-make-my-own-dowels&quot;&gt;aren't hard to make&lt;/a&gt;. Even tricky joinery like dovetails that benefit greatly from a special saw to cut them still only need that one saw that can be used for every dovetail you cut, unlike screws, which would become a material cost. Glue is much cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But screws aren't universally eschewed. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/joinery/pocket-hole-joinery&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pocket hole joinery&lt;/a&gt; has become more common in recent years. Lots of woodworkers are perfectly happy building designs using pocket holes as the primary joinery method. The wide availability of jigs for making pocket holes &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kregtool.com/store/c13/kreg-jigsreg/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;from Kreg&lt;/a&gt; have made this much more popular (though it is by no means necessary to purchase a jig to make pocket holes; like most jigs in woodworking, you can easily &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/5116/283&quot;&gt;build one yourself&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1349/when-are-pocket-holes-an-appropriate-joinery-technique&quot;&gt;This post&lt;/a&gt; may be of interest to you if you want to read more about pocket holes and how to use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2018-05-04T16:19:06.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7265" CreationDate="2018-05-04T16:48:49.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I had to make this I'd start by getting the short, flat edge (top of the piece in the picture) cut or jointed flat. Then I'd scribe my angle lines on the end as a reference and joint one face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the workpiece were short enough, I would use my table saw with the short, flat edge on the table to get my angled cuts. This would be the easy, fast route. If it's close, I might even start my cuts this way, then head over to the bandsaw and tilt the table to match the cut and finish the cuts this way before cleaning up the surface with a hand plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm working with a larger piece, I would probably start by jointing one face down to the reference line. You can get a bias to one side going on the jointer pretty easily by putting the pressure on that side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I had a single face, I'd use a planer with a sled (use shims/wedges to set the angle and hot glue to attach the work piece) to bring the opposite face down to the reference line. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastActivityDate="2018-05-04T16:48:49.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7273" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7274" CreationDate="2018-05-04T19:28:10.727" Score="4" ViewCount="228" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made a router table fence with a &quot;dust extraction&quot; feature:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fWG1k.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fWG1k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rZ5LM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rZ5LM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see there are gaps that would make the &quot;box&quot; not air tight. I need&#xA;to use some kind of foam to fill those gaps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gaps are around 2-3 mm (5/64 - 1/8 inches) wide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't need to be pretty, there isn't much mechanical stress, obviously it doesn't need to be food safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What solution/foam/etc would you recommend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later edit: Maybe even duct tape or something similar? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastEditorUserId="4942" LastEditDate="2018-05-04T19:45:41.373" LastActivityDate="2018-05-04T19:52:17.703" Title="Filling large gaps" Tags="|glue|holes|filler|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7273" CreationDate="2018-05-04T19:52:17.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Caulk would work well. Anything will work - acrylic, painters, silicone, whatever you have on hand. You can caulk from the outside or from the inside of the enclosure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your suggestion for duct tape will also work, but will be more prone to deteriorating over time due to the dusty environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also make small wooden splinters to fit in the gaps and glue them. If done carefully it will even look (almost) seamless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2018-05-04T19:52:17.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7137" CreationDate="2018-05-05T18:01:48.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First you need a drill. This can be a hand drill like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00004UDKT/ref=asc_df_B00004UDKT52255485/?tag=googshopuk-21&amp;amp;creative=22110&amp;amp;creativeASIN=B00004UDKT&amp;amp;linkCode=df0&amp;amp;hvadid=226606326869&amp;amp;hvpos=1o4&amp;amp;hvnetw=g&amp;amp;hvrand=1713181915909916511&amp;amp;hvpone=&amp;amp;hvptwo=&amp;amp;hvqmt=&amp;amp;hvdev=c&amp;amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;amp;hvlocint=&amp;amp;hvlocphy=9046058&amp;amp;hvtargid=pla-486293491837&amp;amp;th=1&amp;amp;psc=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; or an electric drill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you need suitable drill bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few different types for different materials and hole sizes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Twist drills:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/niiyR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/niiyR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Twist drill&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is really the &quot;standard&quot; drill bit which most people will think of first. They can be used on a bunch of different materials (generally metal, wood, plastics) and they don't have anything special about the tip - it's just two cutting edges at an angle. Depending on the material it can be hard to keep this type of bit centred when starting a hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brad point drills:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CrvCT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CrvCT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Brad point drill&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are a good &quot;all round&quot; bit for drilling small sized holes in wood. they have a point on the end which keeps the bit centred as you are drilling through the material. I'd typically use these for anything up to about a 12mm hole, though you can get larger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Auger drills:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ipBuw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ipBuw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Auger drill&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These have a different point type, in fact the point is like a little screw which draws itself into the wood. The spiral of the drill has a wider cut-out which makes them good at pulling chips out of holes. This means you can drill quite large (wide) and deep holes in one go. I've seen these go up to 30mm or wider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spade bits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZPkCm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZPkCm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Spade drill bits&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are used for drilling large holes quickly. They're typically not for drilling very deep because they have no chip clearance spirals. They're generally best used in a power drill because they work best at high speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forstner bits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lmgMd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lmgMd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Forstner bit&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is typically used for drilling shallow but wide holes quickly. Again it's usually best to use these in a power drill as they work best at high-ish speeds and you'd find it hard work with a hand drill. These are often used to drill holes to take things like kitchen cupboard doors as the type of hinges used fit into a circular recess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also need a countersink bit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HAP2w.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HAP2w.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Countersinks&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are used to give a hole a &quot;bevel&quot; or angle to one side, usually to accept a countersunk screw head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there are other kinds of drill available but these are the ones most often used in woodworking. Typically if you're stuck you can do an internet search for &quot;what kind of drill bit should I use for [x]&quot; and find something useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2018-05-05T18:01:48.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7276" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7278" CreationDate="2018-05-06T17:13:34.920" Score="5" ViewCount="975" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eHfIr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eHfIr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought it could be laser but the wood is exposed raw inside the letters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could this be obtained with a router and a template? This is done on several tables in the very same way so it is repeatable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe applying something on wood and then the varnish was applied and finally the letters removed leaving the wood raw exposed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastActivityDate="2018-05-06T19:39:09.977" Title="How is this engraving obtained?" Tags="|technique|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7276" CreationDate="2018-05-06T18:01:28.317" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having engraved wood with my laser, I can attest that the wood would be &quot;exposed raw&quot; inside the lettering and the image confirms that a laser performed the work. This is evident due to the raised grain, which presents to the laser energy a higher resistance to being burned away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would not get such &quot;irregularities&quot; in the surface with a router and template.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not atypical to mask a surface with vinyl sign transfer paper or even ordinary quality masking tape prior to performing the engraving. This reduces the residue deposited by the burned vapors condensing on the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image you've provided would indicate that the wood was finished (sanded and varnished) and allowed to dry, then masked, followed by engraving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While masked, after engraving, additional treatment can be performed. I've masked wood surfaces, engraved deeply, then applied thick acrylic paint to form an inlay of sorts. After drying, the masking is removed, as in the photo you've provided.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2018-05-06T18:01:28.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7276" CreationDate="2018-05-06T19:39:09.977" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The type of letters shown in your photo can be made by using a metal stencil (template) and then using a sand blasting process to etch away the wood through the letter opening in the stencil. Words are often created by the letter stencils being installed side by side in a holding frame or jig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VA6oJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VA6oJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that I have seen sandblasted signs where there was a telltale narrow line between the letters where the sandblaster made it through when the individual stencil pieces were not fit tightly together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it is also a common practice to make sandblasted wood signs where the letters or art images themselves are metal to protect the wood surface and the sandblasting removes the surrounding &quot;background&quot; to some depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eb1qW.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eb1qW.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2018-05-06T19:39:09.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7279" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-06T21:02:29.683" Score="6" ViewCount="2497" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've dissolved de-waxed shellac flakes in methyl hydrate (which contains methyl alcohol), and I would like to know if the alcohol retains some of its toxicity after it has dried. Intuitively it's so volatile that I don't think anything remains, but I'm not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note on methyl hydrate vs denatured alcohol:&lt;/em&gt; Before I purchased this product, I thought methyl hydrate was the same thing as &quot;denatured alcohol&quot; (aka &quot;methylated spirits&quot;). Although the two types of solvent are interchangeable in function when it comes to dissolving shellac, it seems they are very different chemically -- with methyl hydrate being apparently methanol, and denatured alcohol (aka methylated spirits) being ethanol mixed with another type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DcXlf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DcXlf.png&quot; alt=&quot;bottle of methyl hydrate&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the particular case of the product I used, &quot;Methyl Hydrate&quot;, there are no ingredients listed on the back label. The front mentions &quot;99.9%&quot; pure. Pure of what? Just methanol, or pure mix of 99.9% ethanol with methanol? The fluid from this bottle is transparent. I've seen purple ones too in videos, but maybe they were denatured alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've sent an email to their support. But received no reply yet, after a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Substitutes?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;95% grain (drinking) alcohol from the liquor cabinet. Nothing more concentrated than 95% is sold in my area. It might not be concentrated enough, and might contain sugars. Bad idea?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;99% isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol from the medicine cabinet? Bad idea?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit: Feedback from the local poison center&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before posting this question, I'd initially wiped a surface with a methyl-hydrated rag in preparation of applying shellac. And I stopped in my tracks, realising it was perhaps the wrong solvent to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I placed a (very quick) call to my local poison center, (Vancouver BC, Canada), to determine what to do after spilling methyl hydrate on food contact surfaces (like a kitchen counter, dining table, or wooden cutting board). They made several (somewhat controversial) recommendations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;methanol is highly toxic. should wear adequate protection. sure.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;methanol &quot;does not just evaporate&quot;. This claim is dubious, but I figured they assumed it had been mixed with water, or booze. Methanol is water soluble, after all. When I mentioned that it was precisely the point of pure methanol as a solvent, i.e. to  evaporate quickly, they seemed perplexed. And it made me very suspicious about the veracity of the other claims.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;in the case of the wooden cutting board. they mentioned it would be preferable to just discard it, or clean it thoroughly with dish soap. For a plastic cutting board, they suggested a run through the dishwasher. For a melamine counter top, they suggested cleaning it thoroughly with water and soap. I would have expected them to suggest letting it dry, followed by cleaning, but that would have been a surprising answer, given (2). At least there was some consistency.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2018-05-13T21:58:33.617" LastActivityDate="2018-05-13T21:58:33.617" Title="Is shellac that has been dissolved with methyl hydrate (methanol) toxic, once dry?" Tags="|toxicity|solvents|shellac|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7280" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-06T21:28:33.550" Score="2" ViewCount="126" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently not in the US and overseeing a personal wood project, unfortunately, the woodworkers here are illiterate so I need help to properly guide them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We're getting custom Ash wood doors built for our house entrance. The doors will be exposed to hot, humid and rainy weather and we want to stain the doors in a matte finish.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please list the steps I should follow to achieve the best result i.e. Sanding, Staining, Sealing etc?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, the finish should last 3-4 years. The common problems I see here are stain coming off (whitish wood showing) and sometimes bloated wood panels. Is there a way to avoid these? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5117" LastEditorUserId="8085" LastEditDate="2020-02-07T04:52:01.127" LastActivityDate="2020-02-07T04:52:01.127" Title="Please explain steps to stain/waterproof wood to a novice?" Tags="|staining|water-protection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2782" CreationDate="2018-05-06T22:20:52.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I solved the problem, temporarily, by wrapping the hose in bare copper wire and attaching the wire to the electrical ground for the power cord. Worked well until the copper wires gets unwrapped or broken. I have used the wrist bands with an alligator clip attached to electrical conduit. Works but a pain to use. &#xA;I'm going to get the Rockler hose and see if it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5118" LastActivityDate="2018-05-06T22:20:52.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7043" CreationDate="2018-05-07T03:05:57.937" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, prolonged pressure (weeks on end) on a board that has been covered in fresh varnish or oil is likely to stick to whatever it's applied to. If you're short on space, do give it a lot of time to cure, and use stickers between layers of boards to minimize contact area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wild guess here. Depending on the shape of your boards (I don't know if you have round moldings, or tongue and groove, etc), you might be able to stack several next to each other standing on their edges, then cover one layer with stickers or transversal pieces, and repeat. I.e. if you left a strip on each edge that you don't varnish, then you could put pressure on that edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option could be to stack them vertically, like you would a stack a ladder against a wall. With a small piece between two boards so that they are all at the same angle and there is air flow in between. Worst case, only the part of the board that leans against the next will stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastActivityDate="2018-05-07T03:05:57.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7043" CreationDate="2018-05-07T14:44:58.280" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically you would use a drying rack like the one below in a cabinet shop. The benefit to this is that none of your faces are touching anything, but you still get far more out of your floor space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pS9HJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pS9HJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ProDryingRack from PaintLine&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastActivityDate="2018-05-07T14:44:58.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5873" CreationDate="2018-05-07T18:53:29.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The very best way to fill small cracks in raw wood that's going to be varnished is is mix fine sanding dust of that specific wood with a little varnish of the kind you plan to use. The exact proportions aren't important, but the resulting paste should resemble Plastic Wood wood filler.  Use a putty knife or similar instrument to force the paste into the crack.  Let it dry, then sand smooth.  Then when you varnish the piece, there won't be any difference in appearance between the filled crack, the adjacent areas that got paste on them, and the rest of the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5123" LastActivityDate="2018-05-07T18:53:29.017" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7279" CreationDate="2018-05-07T18:59:12.957" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Methyl hydrate = methanol. Also called wood alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is already methanol in most versions of denatured alcohol and in the general equivalent sold in the UK and elsewhere, and these are of course commonly used to dissolve shellac.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And while methanol is quite toxic it is completely volatile, i.e. &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; of it evaporates, so none remains in a dried shellac film*. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However that's not the only concern since the safety of the user must also be considered. The difference in toxicity to the person applying the shellac of pure methanol versus ethanol with just a small amount of methanol added is significant. And some sources warn against casual use of pure methanol because it is much more dangerous than in a dilute form. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So take appropriate safety precautions if using methanol for this purpose — &lt;strong&gt;a well-ventilated room might not provide sufficient protection from the fumes&lt;/strong&gt;, so wearing an appropriate respirator could be considered the minimal safety requirement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The front mentions &quot;99.9%&quot; pure. Pure of what? Just methanol, or pure mix of 99.9% ethanol with methanol? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this will be a small amount of dissolved water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;95% grain (drinking) alcohol from the liquor cabinet. Nothing more concentrated than 95% is sold in my area. It might not be concentrated enough, and might contain sugars. Bad idea?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That should be perfectly suitable if you can get it where you live (it's most definitely not available everywhere!) and you don't mind the price. In fact some shellac users choose 190-proof drinking spirits as their preferred solvent for it and won't use denatured alcohol, despite how commonly it is used for the purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main reason some don't use this is cost, since drinkable ethanol is heavily taxed or has a levy placed on it in most countries while denatured alcohols, and other spirits that aren't drinkable, are not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;99% isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol from the medicine cabinet? Bad idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should be OK but you'd want to do some testing to see how it works for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some shellac users (and other sources) specifically warn not to use it and cite, among other reservations, that it has a slower evaporation rate than denatured alcohol. But this slower evaporation might be considered a benefit, not a negative at all, since the ultra-fast drying of shellac regularly trips up learners who aren't used to it. Bottom line, despite certain individuals stating that it simply doesn't work there are others who use it for their shellac so obviously it can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*It's not generally appreciated that this is also true of finishes that contain mineral spirits/white spirit, no matter how much of the finish is solvent (and &quot;Danish oils&quot; may contain 70% or more) eventually every trace of it will be gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-05-07T18:59:12.957" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7288" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-08T09:24:07.407" Score="1" ViewCount="149" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a new BOYE 8&quot; jointer / thicknesser that I bought cheap as it had a fault.   The company sold it &quot;As Is&quot; and the guys said the roller was a little stiff and won't move up and down easierly.  I thought ... Sounds easy.  Anyway, the jointer works great but the thicknesser isn't cutting.  The blade is set correctly and the rollers do roll.  When I raise the bed, it ends up spinning the rollers and the wood stalls.  The cutters still don't touch the wood?  Can anyone help?&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jRsmi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5125" LastEditorUserId="5125" LastEditDate="2018-05-09T09:09:16.883" LastActivityDate="2018-05-09T09:09:16.883" Title="Thicknesser won't engage cutters" Tags="|tool-repair|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7154" CreationDate="2018-05-08T21:25:16.907" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just purchased one of them myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've jointed a few projects now and they worked brilliantly.  The biscuits I brought were just &quot;off the shelf&quot; size 20. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you need different biscuits.  I know it may sound lame but stick a cut into a small piece of wood and take that in for sizing.  I know, I said it was lame but it would help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5125" LastActivityDate="2018-05-08T21:25:16.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7291" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7292" CreationDate="2018-05-09T01:57:15.180" Score="6" ViewCount="5225" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a simple woodworking table (nothing fancy but want it to be sturdy + flat) and I'm looking for the best way to affix a 1/4&quot; thick sheet of masonite/hardboard to a 3/4&quot; sheet of plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thinking is that the plywood will &lt;em&gt;likely&lt;/em&gt; not bow + warp but when glued (and possibly screwed) to masonite board it will be fairly sturdy + flat for most amateur needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wondering if there is a particular type of glue I should be using, a particular pattern or method of applying the glue between the two sheets, and whether or not I should screw them together as well (and if so: type of screw, methods for preventing the screws to protrude over the table surface, etc.). My main concern with the screws is that countersink holes will run dangerously close to drilling all the way through the 1/4&quot; sheet of masonite, and might even have the undesired affect of weakening the board...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thoughts?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5129" LastActivityDate="2024-01-21T20:36:03.807" Title="Affixing masonite to plywood by example" Tags="|glue|plywood|screws|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7291" CreationDate="2018-05-09T12:52:43.193" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can adhere the hardboard to the ply if you want, but it's not actually vital that you do so and often in benches that have a hardboard top surface it is left loose. It's not there as a structural element but as a sacrificial surface that can in due course be replaced... or flipped over, the other side used and &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; replaced in most cases ^_^&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the top skin is left unfixed it is commonly held in by a solid-wood edging all around the bench surface which both looks good and protects the relatively fragile edges of the MDF or plywood that form the basis of the benchtop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do want to glue the hardboard down you could use PVA, but if so I think it best to just sort of tack it down with spaced out dots of glue, not a full spread over the entire surface although you can do the latter if you prefer. Perhaps better options for the adhesive in this case would be contact adhesive or a slow-setting epoxy since with these you won't have to worry that the glue is starting to dry out in places while you're manoeuvring the hardboard into position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You didn't ask about this but if you will be doing much hand-tool work on your bench I would suggest adding another layer to the table, either doubling up the plywood or using a layer of MDF (even particleboard/chipboard or OSB are fine for this) to add mass and stiffness, increasing shock absorbency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A single layer of 3/4&quot; plywood is perfectly acceptable as a working surface, many successful benches have this as a top, but certain hand-tool operations benefit greatly from the most damping of vibration you can afford to build into the bench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-05-09T12:52:43.193" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7293" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7294" CreationDate="2018-05-09T17:47:42.370" Score="3" ViewCount="241" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not necessarily new to woodworking, but new to lathes.  I've borrowed a Rikon 70-100 lathe from a friend. It has a MT2 receiver in the tail stock, and currently has a live center on the tail stock.  To remove the live center, I just rotate the hand wheel on the tail stock counter clockwise far enough to get the internal bar to push the live center out of the tail stock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just purchased a drill chuck with MT2 mount  (&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B004CVJC3E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004CVJC3E/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&lt;/a&gt;) to use on this lathe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I mount the drill chuck in the tail stock, it sits farther out (from the opening in the tailstock) than the live center. Also, the removal process of rotating the hand wheel counter clockwise far enough to get the internal bar to push doesn't work because the end of the mount doesn't reach the internal mechanism.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My measurements I took on the two arbors are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;                 small         large&#xA;Drill Chuck:     0.59665       0.71750 (inches)&#xA;Live Center      0.57860       0.70330 (inches)&#xA;Spec             0.5720        0.7000&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lengths are the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I've found in online specs for MT2 tapers, the small end should be 0.5720&quot; and the large end 0.7000&quot;.   I think this means that the arbor I have was milled incorrectly, but is this &quot;within tolerances&quot;?  I don't think so, but I'm not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I'm going to return the drill chuck and get a new one, but I wanted to see if y'all thought first.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, Now that I look at it again, I think the Jacobs drill chuck side may not be right either as the drill chuck doesn't look like it's far enough in.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, here's a pic of the drill chuck (this is after giving it a bit of force (a decent hand push from about 1&quot; out) to get into the tail stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HrMDF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HrMDF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;drill chuck&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and for reference, here's the live center:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BCil4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BCil4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5132" LastEditorUserId="5132" LastEditDate="2018-05-09T18:04:44.390" LastActivityDate="2018-05-15T04:35:48.933" Title="Is the MT2 Arbor for a Drill Chuck milled incorrectly?" Tags="|lathe|lathe-chuck|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7293" CreationDate="2018-05-09T19:17:14.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it is oversize, the black band should be just proud of the chuck. If the chuck is too far from the shoulder you will have trouble removing adapter with wedges. Send it back, try again&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4817" LastActivityDate="2018-05-09T19:17:14.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7295" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-09T19:31:49.940" Score="0" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was given a portable wooden workbench with several holes drilled into it, and on the inside of each of these holes is what I would call a &quot;&lt;em&gt;screw receptacle&lt;/em&gt;&quot;; essentially metal, threaded &quot;female&quot; receptable that would allow someone to screw a bolt or perhaps a clamp down in the middle of the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Anybody know what the proper term for these threaded &quot;screw receptacles&quot; might be?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5129" LastActivityDate="2018-05-09T19:31:49.940" Title="Name for threaded workbench receptacles?" Tags="|tabletop|workbench|clamps|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7296" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-09T23:22:11.300" Score="2" ViewCount="181" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used a 12”x9” granite block to fettle the #4 I use bit recently acquired a #5 that belonged to my great uncle. It looks good, and I’m looking forward to cleaning it up, but I assume that I need a flat surface that is longer than the plane sole. Is that correct?&#xA;Thanks,&#xA;John&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5134" LastActivityDate="2018-05-11T06:19:00.630" Title="Can I use a 12” granite block for fettling a #5 plane?" Tags="|hand-tools|tool-maintenance|plane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7299" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7303" CreationDate="2018-05-10T05:22:44.907" Score="4" ViewCount="226" Body="&lt;p&gt;Despite very accurate measuring and drilling I've ended-up with slight hole misalignment wile building a wooden structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the holes in question have been drilled a bit oversize, that isn't proving to be sufficient in all cases.  Some of the holes are not aligning perfectly on both sides of this large 8 inch wide beam.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Holes shown in dashed lines below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MmZiK.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MmZiK.png&quot; alt=&quot;Holes&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if anyone knows of an easy technique one could use to enlarge these deep holes.  I can't remove the beams, they weigh about 300 lbs and it's just too much work.  The brackets are about 1/4 inch thick.  Which means it would be a ton of work to drill out the holes in the metal.  It would also destroy the powdercoating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm hoping for some kind of a special boring tool I might not be familiar with that could be inserted into the hole to then enlarge it once past the metal bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5136" LastActivityDate="2018-05-11T05:42:13.040" Title="How to enlarge a hole behind metal bracket?" Tags="|technique|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7293" CreationDate="2018-05-10T06:51:22.893" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Morse taper (MT) drill chuck arbor like this has two tapers; one is the Morse taper, and the other is the chuck taper, generally a &lt;em&gt;Jacobs&lt;/em&gt; taper (JT).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like you have two problems. The Jacobs taper doesn't appear to be seating correctly, which likely means it's the wrong JT size for that chuck. Perhaps the chuck is a JT33 and the arbor is JT3. These are close in number but not in size, the JT3 being substantially bigger (perhaps counterintuitively).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the Morse taper end, in my experience, there is significant variance between sources as to the length and taper diameter at a given distance from the end. This makes some more suitable for different uses, but as long as the &lt;em&gt;taper&lt;/em&gt; itself is correct (angle of the tapered surface), it will seat properly and function. In your case, the Morse taper isn't long enough to hit the ejection pin, possibly because it doesn't have a &lt;em&gt;tang&lt;/em&gt;, which is purposely on some and not on others. It's not necessary for it to seat flush to work correctly and there are some applications where you want it to stick out a fair amount (for example on a dead center in a headstock spindle when using a faceplate).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machine_taper#Morse&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Wikipedia page&quot;&gt;Wikipedia page&lt;/a&gt; has more on Morse tapers and machine tapers in general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2018-05-15T04:35:48.933" LastActivityDate="2018-05-15T04:35:48.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7301" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-10T11:02:27.847" Score="4" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Shopmate radial arm saw with a router outlet spindle.&#xA;I can not find a collet chuck attachment to perform routing. &#xA;Is it possible and save to attach a normal drill chuck to perform routing work at 20000 rpm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5138" LastActivityDate="2018-06-18T18:47:50.537" Title="performing routing with drill chuck" Tags="|technique|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7302" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-10T15:57:10.387" Score="2" ViewCount="85" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking for finishing tips for old semi rough sawn boards in a living room.&#xA;The wood is very dry and not very attractive as it sits now and I do not want to polyurethane it.&#xA;Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5140" LastActivityDate="2018-07-10T14:45:55.223" Title="Need finishing tips for 50 yr old semi rough sawn wood paneling in a living room" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7299" CreationDate="2018-05-11T05:42:13.040" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The holes are slightly misaligned, which I assume means that the holes in the wood overlap the the holes in the steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your comment to drill from both sides is the solution that I would pursue. I would redrill the holes in the wood using the same diameter as you originally used. The idea is that the hole that you redrill will follow the course of least resistance which may create a hole that is not perfectly straight, but which will meet in the middle of the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may not be able to simply slip the bolts through the holes but may have to drive them through in order to follow the possible curved path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are comfortable using a Forstner bit in a portable drill use that since it will minimize damage to the powder finish on the steel.  I'm afraid, though, that you will damage the finish and will either have to live with (it's going to hidden and protected by washers or the head of the bolt) or apply some sort of protective paint to the bare metal that will almost certainly appear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2018-05-11T05:42:13.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7296" CreationDate="2018-05-11T06:19:00.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, assuming you're talking about using the granite block (surface plate I presume) as a backing for abrasive paper of some description. You'll want to use the diagonal (15 inches) which is just about as long as the sole and limit your overhang during each stroke to a couple inches. There may be some tendency to produce a concave surface, so you should check the sole for progress frequently. You can reduce high spots more quickly (perhaps on the ends if concavity appears) by concentrating your downward pressure above those points, probably one at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do establish a feedback loop which allows you to monitor your progress and get a feel for the effectiveness of your technique. Feedback here meaning measuring the flatness against a reference every couple minutes or so. Unfortunately your best tool for that may be covered with sandpaper just when you need it (the surface plate itself), but perhaps you have another straight-edge available that will suit. Use rocking (or the lack of it in the end) and perhaps feeler gauges to locate and measure spots not making contact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2018-05-11T06:19:00.630" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7279" CreationDate="2018-05-11T13:58:27.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two additions to Grpahus's comprehensive answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/q/24036/17347&quot;&gt;Skin absorption of methanol is also an issue (chemistry.se)&lt;/a&gt;, so gloves should be worn.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.augusta.edu/services/ehs/chemsafe/PDF%20files/gloveselechart.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Latex isn't much good&lt;/a&gt;; nitrile and PVC are not much better but for short-term use are recommended by some sources.  100% methanol is worse than 10% in ethanol, though how much worse is another question (and one for chemistry, not woodworking).  I say all this is someone who's fairly casual with isoproponal and acetone (I use them in the lab almost daily).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All (relevant) alcohols are &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hygroscopy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hygroscopic&lt;/a&gt; and will absorb water from the air if left open; of course the other 5% in food-grade 95% ethanol  is also water.  This is just something to bear in mind if you might not want to add water (not really an issue for shellac by the sounds of things, but can cause problems with some other products).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2018-05-11T13:58:27.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7302" CreationDate="2018-05-11T14:07:23.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just made a mantle out of an old barn beam.  I used a wire wheel first, then sanded with 80 -&gt; 120 -&gt; 220 sandpaper using a random orbital.  Wiped with mineral spirits and then two coats of tung oil, lightly sanding again with 220 between coats.  It has a nice matte finish and tung oil doesn't build a film like poly does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for the blurriness, it's a screenshot from a video I took.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sRAoX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sRAoX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://imgur.com/a/fwwXSYZ&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5148" LastActivityDate="2018-05-11T14:07:23.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7307" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7308" CreationDate="2018-05-11T19:25:18.170" Score="2" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently cut mortices using a template and busing guide with a plunge router to get easily reproducible results. I then cut mortices by routing away 5mm all round my timber. I then discovered that my timber is not very accurately machined - some tenons were over tight and others too loose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fix this in the future I would probably try to fit in a planer/thicknesser, but for my current project this is not practical. I want to have well fitting routed joints but not take away from the woods current finish - which is fine for the garden tubs I want. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would I go about cutting exact 25x60mm tenons on the end of approx 35x70mm timber? I can't see how a trim router and template would be workable on the end of a small profile like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steve&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5149" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2018-05-15T15:47:21.023" LastActivityDate="2018-05-15T15:47:21.023" Title="Reproducing tenons in semi rough cut timber" Tags="|joinery|router|mortise-and-tenon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7307" CreationDate="2018-05-11T22:46:16.697" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd look to the typical hand-tool workflow for cutting tenons and adapt it to the router.  Working with hand tools it's generally assumed that one face will be your reference for all your layout.  That way if the piece is slightly off in thickness or slightly out of square you'll still get a good joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'd start by laying out all of your tenons with a double marking gauge.  This is a tool that has a fence and two adjustable cutters.  The cutters are set so the distance between them is the same as the width of the mortise and the distance from the fence to the near blade is the width of the mortise's shoulder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've laid out all of your tenons you can cut all of the reference-face cheeks with one router setup.  For the back face you'll have to adjust the bit depth to hit each layout line before you route the cheek.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2018-05-11T22:46:16.697" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7309" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-12T02:36:17.530" Score="3" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;I support the idea behind the CITES treaty.  However it seems that it took all the popular and desirable exotic woods and banned/regulated them to a point where normal schmoes can't afford to buy these fancy-schmancy exotics short of winning the lottery.  So if I want something that looks like Unobtanium-wood but is not endangered and I can afford, I don't know what to look for.  Is there a reference that says something like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;You want to build with {endangered species}?  Use {more common species} instead... it looks {similar|different}, works {similar|different} to {engangered wood}&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="432" LastActivityDate="2018-05-12T02:36:17.530" Title="Is there a reference for woods similar to exotics?" Tags="|wood-selection|wood-species|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7311" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7312" CreationDate="2018-05-13T08:36:46.703" Score="7" ViewCount="370" Body="&lt;p&gt;When people need flush corner joints (say, dovetails), I usually see them glue the piece up, sand or plane the joint flush, and then apply stain to the whole thing.  That won't work for me, because I want each piece to have a different stain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've come up with a few ideas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stain the pieces separately before they're glued up, hoping that I don't have to sand through the whole stain to get the joints flush.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glue the pieces unstained and stain each piece selectively with masking tape, hoping that the stain doesn't seep under the tape and through to the other piece.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assemble the piece without gluing it, sand the joints flush, disassemble it and stain the pieces separately, and glue it all back up, hoping that all the pieces fit together exactly as before.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All three options seem pretty unlikely to work.  Is there a trick to this, or am I going to have to redesign the project to avoid the issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using oak and Minwax oil-based penetrating stain, but I'm also interested in solutions for other wood and stain combinations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5153" LastActivityDate="2018-05-13T15:50:27.590" Title="How do I achieve flush joinery when the pieces need to be stained differently?" Tags="|joinery|staining|sanding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7311" CreationDate="2018-05-13T15:50:27.590" Score="10" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Stain the pieces separately before they're glued up, hoping that I don't have to sand through the whole stain to get the joints flush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even the deepest penetrating commercial stains, applied in the normal way, don't allow much sanding so it's best to aim to do &lt;em&gt;almost none&lt;/em&gt; after staining if possible. When it comes to flushing joints, even if you only have a 0.008&quot; / 0.2mm discrepancy (!) between one piece and the next you could easily end up sanding through the stain in some areas, so it's almost never feasible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Glue the pieces unstained and stain each piece selectively with masking tape, hoping that the stain doesn't seep under the tape and through to the other piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the least likely to work in practice. The idea sounds great on paper but is really only theoretically possible because of the tendency for stains to creep under masks (even under masks much better than common masking tapes) and worse, for the wood itself to wick the stain in unpredictably along the grain lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Assemble the piece without gluing it, sand the joints flush, disassemble it and stain the pieces separately, and glue it all back up, hoping that all the pieces fit together exactly as before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go ahead with staining this is actually the way you should be aiming to do this I think — get the piece basically perfect as far as alignment goes, then take it apart, colour the wood as needed and assemble carefully back into alignment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All three options seem pretty unlikely to work. Is there a trick to this, or am I going to have to redesign the project to avoid the issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a fourth option, and that's not using stained wood but instead woods that are naturally the colour(s) you want. This is arguably THE way to do something like this and comes with the least in-built hurdles or pitfalls, but the availability and cost of the woods in question can definitely be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-05-13T15:50:27.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7208" CreationDate="2018-05-13T19:19:18.717" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I finally got the time to try this out today.  Dry was hopeless, but damp worked well (as suggested by descriptions like &lt;a href=&quot;http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/3835&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cut a couple of strips of the size I intend to use (22&amp;nbsp;mm wide by 600&amp;nbsp;mm long).  The intended shape is just over a half-circle, radius 180&amp;nbsp;mm.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first I tried to bend  dry.  I was planning to bend it part way then leave it for a while, but it snapped before I got even half way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second I brushed with water, mainly on the smooth face. A few minutes later I gently bent it (hung over a bar with some plastic clamps as weights.  After about half an hour I bent it to near enough the required shape, clamped it, and left it to dry for a few hours.  It held its shape when I released the clamps.  It needed a light sand, especially where the water had soaked in to the cut edges, but after that is as good as new. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update after finishing the job: It worked well, but the cut edges were raised and roughened more than I thought, and needed more sanding/undercoating/fine sanding than I expected.  The gold spray paint I used comes up a sparkly silver rather than a smooth(ish) gold if the surface is even slightly rough.  But the job is finished (I'm a little disappointed with my craftsmanship in places but overall it should go down very well):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dqs4f.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dqs4f.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A treasure chest&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2018-08-16T20:27:19.870" LastActivityDate="2018-08-16T20:27:19.870" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7148" CreationDate="2018-05-14T20:10:10.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) clamp it flat.&#xA;2) biscuit it to support boards on either edge.&#xA;3) if that doesn't work and there is room to hide them, first reinforce the support boards with boards attached to the support boards at a 90 degree angle and out of sight.  These stiffener boards will resist warping even under great stress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not ideal, but it may work in your situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="309" LastActivityDate="2018-05-14T20:10:10.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7263" CreationDate="2018-05-15T04:20:29.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should and could be repaired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One idea I had was to lightly pencil in a line square with the top at the same distance on each side from the corner. Use a couple of straight edges to find the corner that is out in space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I can think of several fixes but these two are similar with different effect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a handsaw to carefully cut across the corner on both lines you drew. Then find a species of wood that, after test staining and finishing samples, would blend in. Use wood glue to adhere a piece ever so slightly oversized that will bridge the lost corner. Finish per your test piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that a ribbon of black inlay in the top? If so you might try this:&#xA;Using similar layout lines as before, you could fill the corner with black epoxy or a contrasting wood piece stained black. Of course you would want to do all four corners for esthetics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the very top of the table, I might start by sanding a new radius and try to match the finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5157" LastActivityDate="2018-05-15T04:20:29.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7170" CreationDate="2018-05-16T22:29:10.710" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I ended up going with the &quot;Don't do it!&quot; answer. In the end, the table is made by gluing the pieces together and running 3 dowels through them and the edges are simply routed. I don't think the dowels add much, structurally, but they sure made the glue-up easier. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for all of the advice from everyone! Here's the table top progression, in case you're wondering:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nmERl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nmERl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5bJ5K.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5bJ5K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4rkJJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4rkJJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4781" LastActivityDate="2018-05-16T22:29:10.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7321" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7322" CreationDate="2018-05-17T22:03:45.777" Score="4" ViewCount="18153" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took a woodworking course recently in which we learned the screwed butt joint technique. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it's not the prettiest, it is very fast and relatively easy to get right. It appears the pocket-hole rig is recommended a lot to beginners online. &#xA;What are some of the trade-offs with pocket hole joints (the rigs are advertised as a magic bullet often)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5165" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2018-05-18T15:46:19.450" LastActivityDate="2018-05-27T09:03:43.470" Title="Pocket holes vs screwed butt joint" Tags="|joinery|screws|butt-joint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7321" CreationDate="2018-05-18T12:34:53.053" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Graphus mentioned the strength of the joint as being one major issue. If it's strong enough, it's fine, but pocket holes are not for every joint. Casework is a good example of where they shine (especially on shop furniture).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another problem is similar to downsides of regular butt-joints: alignment. &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4850/not-so-obvious-disadvantages-of-butt-joints&quot;&gt;I found&lt;/a&gt; alignment to be a larger issue with butt joints than I thought it would be, and wound up having to reglue a few pieces because the joint slipped or wasn't aligned properly. You'll encounter similar issues with pocket hole joints, especially as the first screw is tightened as it tries to rotate the whole workpiece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are clamps designed specifically for holding pocket hole joints together during assembly like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kregtool.com/store/c46/corner-clamps/p389/right-angle-clamp/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one from Kreg&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VZwhE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VZwhE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Kreg clamp&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But that means buying another specialized tool (on top of the pocket-hole jig itself).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, aesthetics can be an issue. Pocket hole joints leave unsightly elongated holes in the wood. They make &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kregtool.com/store/c21/kregreg-plugs/p132/solid-wood-pocket-hole-plugs--paint-grade--50ct/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;plugs&lt;/a&gt; to fill those holes in:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H9wiV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H9wiV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;plugs&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you can make your own. Unless you're painting the piece, though, those plugs will likely still be visible as it will be impossible to get grain continuity. If, however, you can hide the holes on parts of the piece that won't be seen (underside of shelves, inside cabinets, outsides or backs of drawers, etc) then this is a non-issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Images and links taken from Kreg's site. Not an endorsement or recommendation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastActivityDate="2018-05-18T12:34:53.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7323" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-18T14:05:24.647" Score="3" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a cover that masks the pond foil along the edges of my parents' fish pond which is 2.2m x 3.8m.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on using quarter sawn boards out of larch, 11cm wide and 3cm thick, joined by stub tenons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this be stable enough as far as warpage is concerned?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5167" LastActivityDate="2018-05-18T14:48:12.123" Title="2.20m x 3.80m rectangular frame - will it be stable?" Tags="|wood-selection|wood-movement|timberframe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7323" CreationDate="2018-05-18T14:48:12.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Will this be stable enough as far as warp is concerned?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The term 'warp' can cover a lot of issues.  Your boards may readily cup, twist, bow, or crook due to the repeated exposure to water and uneven drying.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X8vUK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X8vUK.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount and type of warping will depend largely on the arrangement of the grain as much as how the boards attach.  In general a short stub tenon at the corners will do little to resist most of these categories although it will resist cupping at the intersection areas even though it may occur further toward the middle of the boards.  Your best may be to select individual boards with very straight grain.  You can reduce cupping by selecting boards with vertical grain orientation relative to the wider board dimension.  You might also want to mount the this trim frame to block risers rather than directly contacting the pool liner directly to maintain some airflow around the frame allowing more uniform drying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2018-05-18T14:48:12.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7326" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-22T09:22:49.907" Score="3" ViewCount="338" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if this is the right section to ask this question, but I assume at least some of you woodworkers have experience with epoxy (Barrikade EP-TP).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm having a problem with 2 gallons of epoxy that I bought for a boat building project. I made a test batch and the epoxy is hardening extremely slow. The specifications say the pot time is 22 minutes, but even after 2 hours the batch is still liquid, as if I just mixed it. It takes ~4 hours for it to start turning to gel. After 24 hours it is like soft rubber. After 48 hours it's like hard rubber, but still not hard enough for sanding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I checked and tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The ratio is dead on. Specification calls for 100:44, and I'm mixing&#xA;16 gram batches with scales accurate down to 0.01 gram.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The ambient temperature is controlled 23 degrees. Specification&#xA;calls for 20 degrees for nominal cure, so if anything, the epoxy&#xA;should cure faster, not slower.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I suspected that the components have settled too much in their&#xA;buckets, so I mixed them before using. Didn't help.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Epoxy was bought 4 months ago, so it's definitely not expired.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Epoxy was always stored indoors, in nominal conditions (never frozen&#xA;or anything). No contamination either.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I called the seller, suspecting that maybe he shipped the wrong hardener, but he swore on his mother that everything is correct and the batches are labeled in the factory. He tried to persuade me that what I'm seeing is normal, and refused to send another batch (even if he did want to I would have to wait ~2 months for it, and there is no other epoxy supplier in my country.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a bit of experience with epoxy, yet I've never seen anything like this. What could be the problem? Can somebody please advise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4999" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-01-14T17:48:50.713" LastActivityDate="2020-01-14T17:48:50.713" Title="The epoxy hardens extremely slowly - what's the cause?" Tags="|epoxy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7326" CreationDate="2018-05-22T16:59:10.930" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will need to experiment. Try ten small batches with increasing amounts of hardener. Check results and repeat based on previous results and go from there. I would look for another product while doing this, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5181" LastActivityDate="2018-05-22T16:59:10.930" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5498" CreationDate="2018-05-23T15:11:11.910" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the benefit of anyone who references this in the future, here are my comments and suggestions given the materials on hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OSB is designed to be a durable “skin”.  It should be fastened with nails or screws, at least 10 mm in from the edge.  You might be surprised to find that high quality nails (try Tremont nails) will “hold” better than screws.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OSB must be attached to a frame.  The frame is the structural element.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have Construction grade framing lumber (2x3 or 2x4 for example) that has been laid flat and yet shows cupping, flip it over.  Leave it for several days, you may find it straightens itself as the underside is now drying.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You absolutely must have the top and bottom rail as straight and plumb as possible.  You have a little more leeway to “force” studs into place.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The idea of “breaking up” the stud/frame pieces to make them straighter will not work.  Again, the frame is the structural element, the panels are the skin.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5186" LastActivityDate="2018-05-23T15:11:11.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7333" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-23T22:25:24.560" Score="4" ViewCount="351" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have stripped down a 60s oak dinning table and chairs with paint stripper, then washed with TPS as per paint remover instructions. I then dyed the wood with Dylon material dye &quot;deep blue&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The finish color turned out different than I had planned because (I believe) there was some oak stain still in the wood.  It turned out to be a very dark (almost black) finish with a hint of blue, which I thought was very nice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted a very natural soft look so I then used Watco natural oil - 2 coats as per can instructions. I waited a day but the blue dye still could be wiped off. I thought the oil would be a hard seal finish, but that doesn't seem to be the case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So then I tried to top the finish with Watco wax finish as per can instructions. However, I can still wipe blue dye of the table.  When the table is dry and you run your hand or dry cloth over it the dye does not seem to come off.  However, if you use a damp dish cloth it comes off like there is no finish on it at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now I have taken the two leaves and washed them with TPS as per &quot;taking wax off&quot; instructions.  With this procedure I am loosing a lot of my dark color but I will be okay with the lighter color.  I am waiting a day.  (The temperature is very warm here; it is about 25 degrees c. outside.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I want to know what product I can use to lock in the color.  This product will have to be compatible with the danish oil.  Should I use something like Varathane?  I am open to any suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5189" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2018-05-24T15:59:18.577" LastActivityDate="2018-05-24T15:59:18.577" Title="dylon material dyed wood and watco oil and wax finish on oak" Tags="|furniture|refinishing|coloring|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7334" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7335" CreationDate="2018-05-24T14:00:37.203" Score="2" ViewCount="512" Body="&lt;p&gt;Someone gave me an old portable, single-bag dust collector like the one pictured here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OTQNI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OTQNI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;this thing sucks&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one I have is a Jet, but it's essentially the same thing: 1 HP, 650(ish) CFM. I had been planning to get a 2 HP stationary one to make a centralized collection system, but this one fell into my lap for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was given to me with no bag (or hose, or wheels...). I'd like to make a cyclone dust collector out of it using a Dust Deputy, but one way or another, I have to put a bag or filter on the end of it. Replacement bags for the one in the picture come in 30 micron ($20) and 5 micron ($35) versions, and a 1 micron canister-style filter runs about $230.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This Shop Vac filter runs $15 at Lowes and supposedly has a 0.3 micron rating:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4OMVk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4OMVk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;this thing sucks in a different way&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm game for cobbling together some connections to make it airtight if it can work. My question is this: would the Shop Vac filter be too restrictive? If it cuts down the airflow on an already marginal collector, then it wouldn't do me much good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, would it matter that I'm pushing air through it in the reverse direction than what it was designed for? I could probably just wrap some screen or expanded metal around the outside of the filter pleats to support them so they don't get blown out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5190" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2020-07-27T20:38:43.293" Title="Can I use the filter from a shop vac on my dust collector?" Tags="|dust-collection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7334" CreationDate="2018-05-24T14:14:35.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issue with using the shop vac filter is not a matter of inside-out versus outside-in. The filter works better outside-in because the pleats are able to hold more dust on the outside but the filter can filter air passing inside-out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem you will have is the filter is for a shop vac, that is high static pressure but comparatively low air flow. A dust collector on the other hand is a low static pressure but high air flow device. The filter would be very restrictive to the airflow the dust collector produces and you would be disappointed. If you had enough filters to accommodate the airflow then it would work. The other issue would be that you would want to settle out the majority of the chips before exhausting through the filters or the filter would clog up in short order. That is the purpose of the big tank of the shop vac (air velocity drops and particles settle) or the lower plastic bag on the slightly larger dust collectors. That is what the Dust Deputy will provide you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4817" LastActivityDate="2018-05-24T14:14:35.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7336" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7337" CreationDate="2018-05-24T23:36:26.987" Score="2" ViewCount="4195" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to make a desktop out of beech wood (Ikea Gerton table top) and want the wood finish to look like this example photo... A very light natural, matte look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How could I achieve this while still protecting the wood from water spills, etc..? I'm afraid to apply a sealant that will make it more glossy or change the color. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JOner.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JOner.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wood Look&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5194" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2018-05-25T11:19:47.247" LastActivityDate="2018-05-25T11:19:47.247" Title="Finishing beech for minimal color change, matte finish" Tags="|finishing|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7336" CreationDate="2018-05-25T01:47:59.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general you'd want water based finishes in satin or even matte. Oil based finishes tend to add an orange tint to the wood, even if the finish is not colored. Water based finishes are much more transparent, and will have much less impact on the natural color of the wood. Water based polyurathanes are your best bet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically for the Ikea Gerton, according to Ikea's website, it comes pre-oiled. This means that a water based finish will have trouble adhering to the wood. Ideally you should sand the table to bare wood, then finish with the water based finish. Note that sanding the wood to remove the oil will probably change the appearance of the table top (up to you to decide if this is for the better or not).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2018-05-25T01:47:59.977" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7338" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7344" CreationDate="2018-05-25T11:01:49.427" Score="0" ViewCount="209" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife would like me to build her a picture frame, but she has some requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;She wants it to look like metal.  (She apparently found a spray paint that makes it look metal).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;She wants the visible portion of the frame to be no more than 1/4&quot; wide.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(She basically wants a metal frame, but doesn't want to pay 60$ for it, since it's a custom size)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, here's my reservations with this....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the visible portion of the frame is 1/4&quot; wide, that means the rabbet holding the picture/glass would be around 1/8&quot; - is this enough material to support the picture/glass?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Again, if the rabbet is 1/8&quot; - That's REALLY thin material spanning from the front of the frame to the back of the frame.  I picture this not being thick enough to prevent breaking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't know if I have the tools and expertise to cut pieces this thin...  A 1/4&quot; piece with a 1/8&quot; rabbet?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My only possible solutions for this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use PVC trim pieces.  They may be able to withstand forces better, being only 1/8&quot; thick.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Build the frame without a rabbet.  Use a router and a slot cutting bit to route out a slot in the frame - it doesn't necessarily need to be 1/8&quot; - just enough to keep the picture held in.  Fashion a slot at the top of the frame.  Instead of setting the picture in from the back, I'd drop it in from the top, which wouldn't be visible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5195" LastActivityDate="2018-10-24T23:59:18.770" Title="Is making this picture frame do-able?" Tags="|technique|router|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7339" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7340" CreationDate="2018-05-25T13:20:29.580" Score="6" ViewCount="1309" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cZX7F.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;This was originally a 1.5x1.5 piece of oak&quot;&gt;. It was originally straight. After I ripped it (resawed?) on the table saw, the pieces are no longer straight. The thinner piece is drastically worse than the thicker one as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did I release tension in the wood when I cut it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any way to prevent this in the future other than cut thicker and plane it down? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5195" LastActivityDate="2018-05-25T16:56:03.433" Title="What happened here? Wood tension?" Tags="|table-saw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7339" CreationDate="2018-05-25T15:24:13.457" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct about releasing the tension when you cut it.  You are also correct about there not really being a way to avoid it.  I have had pieces bow like that after planing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My general procedure for getting rough cut lumber to size are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allow wood to acclimate in your shop for several days.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Face one side flat with the jointer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get an edge square to the flat side with the jointer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rip, resaw, or plane slightly thick - maybe 1/8&quot; or so&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let the pieces set for a couple days to release tension&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If necessary, repeat steps 2 &amp;amp; 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plane to final thickness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rip to final width&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the wood has some extreme tension in it, it may be necessary to do repeat steps 2-6, although I have only had to do that once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastEditorUserId="286" LastEditDate="2018-05-25T15:30:15.113" LastActivityDate="2018-05-25T15:30:15.113" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7339" CreationDate="2018-05-25T16:56:03.433" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see this a lot. Usually comes from cheap poorly dried lumber (which I use a lot of). Buying your lumber closer to the final dimensions helps however it is more costly than say ripping a wider piece into two usable pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, older drier pieces of lumber seem to be better, but not always.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5197" LastActivityDate="2018-05-25T16:56:03.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7342" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-26T00:28:01.450" Score="3" ViewCount="312" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I am very much new to woodworking and I stupidly proclaimed to my housemates that I was going to build myself a loft bed. Obviously this ambition was met with a lot of ridicule and doubt so now my stubborn ass has no choice but to make this bed for better or for worse. I've researched as best I can and come up with a very messy preliminary design which I've had to make on ms paint as I don't really have the money to be paying for any actually good software, I was hoping you might be able to provide me with any tips/hints/improvements that could be made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mG80t.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mG80t.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;The wood I'm currently planning on using is 100mmx100mm 5th grade Scandinavian redwood for the 4 legs and then 50mmx100mm white fir for everything else (side note: could I get away with using the white fir for everything? The 100x100 legs are a significant expense which I figured is probably necessary but I'd love for someone to tell me I'm wrong hahaha) The length of the bed will be 190cm, width will be 135cm and height will be 136cm. The stupidly colourful diagrams below represent the corner joints - 1 is a birds eye view of the joint where the yellow is the leg, red is the rail and blue is the stretcher. 2 shows the view of the joint from the front and 3 is from the left (both with screws/bolts). For the middle stretchers I thought I'd just do a lap joint. I wasn't sure whether I should be using screws or bolts for this, is there generally a better or more appropriate choice of those two? I'm also still unsure on how best to join the horizontal and diagonal supports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know adding another horizontal support on the left side would increase stability as would adding a diagonal on the back - these are things I'm open to doing but would prefer to not as I have a wardrobe/chest of drawers on the left so a horizontal beam would be slightly inconvenient, and there's a window at the back which I'd prefer not to block with another diagonal if at all possible. Do you think these things are necessary or can I get away without them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few notes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I can't drill into the walls as I'm renting&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If possible I'd like to avoid using glue so I can take it apart when I have to move out and take it with me&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;My current plan is to use plywood on top then put the mattress on that, does this make sense??&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I haven't bought any of the wood or screws etc yet so open to change on anything really&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Please be nice/constructive I am aware I'm in way over my head lol but I'm going to attempt this even if it is going to be a disaster I'd just really like it to not be&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5200" LastEditorUserId="5200" LastEditDate="2018-05-26T10:27:13.377" LastActivityDate="2018-05-26T16:23:16.410" Title="Loft bed design" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7342" CreationDate="2018-05-26T14:40:58.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;100x100mm for the legs is massive. 75x100 should be plenty and 75x75 or 50x100 would probably be my choice if you build it right. I built an awning for my house a while ago using 100x100 legs and thought afterwards that I should have used something much smaller. Smaller sections will want better bracing though.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Also consider that if it turns out too flimsy you could double up afterwards. For example, if you used 50x100 for the legs and they didn't feel sturdy enough you could come along after with another 50x100 and screw it to the first to reinforce. This might even be cheaper than a single larger piece of 100x100. It won't look as good though obviously.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;My gut feeling is that your design will rack badly from left to right. Extra horizontal supports are not a good way to solve this unless they are very wide. Use diagonals or ply gussets as suggested. Diagonals don't need to go the whole way corner to corner; even small ones will greatly increase the rigidity of the structure and won't get in the way so much.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, I'd consider something like 25x150 rather than 50x100 for the rails. It'd be stiffer in the appropriate direction and would help reduce racking a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There is really no replacement for screwing something to the wall to make it really rigid, really cheaply. If you haven't done so already I'd ask your landlord if they would mind you drilling a couple of holes. IME they might not mind if you promise to thumb a bit of filler into the hole when you leave.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In your diagram your screws coming at different directions will run into each other. You'll need to stagger them slightly. Also keep in mind that screwing end-on into the grain is weaker than screwing across the grain. You can compensate by using long screws - just make sure your drill/driver has a decent amount of torque.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have a feeling that if you lay a mattress onto ply you might get perspiration trapped there, leading to mould. I think this is one reason why beds traditionally use slats.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dimensions I've suggested are just my gut feeling. If possible, go and have a look at what you are considering and lean your weight onto it to get a feel for how beefy your pieces really need to be. It's normal to overestimate how thick things need to be so I think you might be surprised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3343" LastEditorUserId="3343" LastEditDate="2018-05-26T16:23:16.410" LastActivityDate="2018-05-26T16:23:16.410" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7338" CreationDate="2018-05-26T18:00:49.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is another approach to the frame design.  A 1/4&quot; wide frame will not be very supportive so you must beef it up. You haven't mentioned how large the picture is, but unless it is very large you can hold the picture and glass only at the corners and create a more substantial wood frame that is behind the picture. The only exposed portion of the frame is the 1/4&quot; edging, but it is glued to the real support frame behind for continuous support.  Instead of mitering the corners, you can create slightly larger corner blocks that to secure the picture and glass to the frame.  I have used a similar approach on several frames and the emphasized corners look good (in my opnion). You can either have the glass edges finished by the glass shop for a smooth appearance or hide them behind a 1/8&quot; rabbet using Charlie Kilian's technique described in his comment .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2018-05-26T18:00:49.603" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7346" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-27T01:37:22.930" Score="7" ViewCount="35354" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been refinishing wood cabinet doors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've sanded down to the bare wood, then applied a pre-stain. After 1 coat of stain I'm putting on 2-3 coats of polyurethane clear coat. I'm using mineral spirits to clean my brushes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went away for a month and today I opened the can on polyurethane that is about 1/3 full and it appears to be turning to a 'jelly' like consistency. Is this normal and it just needs to be mixed or is there something wrong with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All products are Minwax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5204" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-04-28T15:15:00.123" LastActivityDate="2021-07-18T15:22:55.977" Title="Polyurethane clear coat is thickening to a jelly in the can!" Tags="|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7346" CreationDate="2018-05-27T06:23:53.763" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming oil-based polyurethane. If it's actually water-based, most of this won't apply. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What happened&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since your can of poly was 2/3 filled with air, the remaining finish has partially dried, or cured, in the can due to the presence of a sufficient amount of oxygen, changing its consistency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What to do this time&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; thin out the partially dry poly with mineral spirits to get it back to its original consistency, but based on my own attempt at doing so, I don't recommend it. Unlike a water-based solution, oil-based polyurethane undergoes a chemical reaction as it dries which is not completely undone by thinning. It would make it possible to apply, but it won't be as good as new. When I tried this, it was a night and day difference in my sprayer between the re-thinned poly and the new can that I opened to complete my job. Your best bet is to buy a new can to finish your cabinets with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What to do next time&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I said before, the poly reacted to the presence of oxygen in the can. There are a few ways to prevent this from happening. One is to move the leftover poly into a smaller container so that there isn't room in the container for a large amount of oxygen. Mason jars would work well, or anything else with an air tight lid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to modify the can it comes in by squeezing it with a clamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also modify the leftover poly in order to fill up the empty space in the can by adding mineral spirits before sealing the lid. This is a very situational solution, however, as it will change the application performance of the poly when you open it back up. Unless you want to turn it into wipe-on poly or spray poly, you can only add a small amount. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last option is to remove the oxygen from the can. Since most people don't have a vacuum chamber to store wood finish in, you can displace the oxygen with another gas. I've heard of an aerosol can of inert, heavy gas sold specially for this purpose, though it may be possible to accomplish the same thing with more easily obtained CO2, nitrogen, or hydrogen. You simply spray the gas into the can then immediately seal the lid. The air in the can then has very little oxygen to react with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4773" LastActivityDate="2018-05-27T06:23:53.763" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4469" CreationDate="2018-05-27T08:55:05.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously you don’t want to use any softwoods, regardless of their grain density.  They will show knife marks more than a hardwood in most cases. And, even though poplar is technically a hardwood, you’ll want to avoid it as it has very similar properties to pine.  It’s just too soft and light to handle chopping and cutting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, don’t use any species with &lt;em&gt;open&lt;/em&gt; grain patterns; or, low grain density.  Oak is an example of an open grain wood.&lt;a href=&quot;http://workshopcompanion.com/KnowHow/Design/Nature_of_Wood/1_Wood_Grain/1_Wood_Grain_Images/NOW_1_5.jpg/%20%22See%20the%20bery&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Oak has very open pores which would attract bacteria, oils, etc.&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The go-to/can’t-go-wrong woods in the US for cutting boards are hard maple and black walnut.  They’re accessible, dense, closed-grain, and quite attractive as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to use some exotics, some good cutting board woods are sapele and jatoba.  Purpleheart is popular but can be very tough on your blades and tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some “in-the-middle” species you’re probably familiar with are ash and hickory.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5205" LastEditorUserId="5205" LastEditDate="2018-05-29T23:07:18.823" LastActivityDate="2018-05-29T23:07:18.823" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7321" CreationDate="2018-05-27T09:03:43.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pocket screws are a popular method because you are fastening long-grain to long-grain.  This is the strongest combination possible.  If pocket holes don’t fit your needs, the long grain bond can be achieved through a number of more traditional methods like a mortise &amp;amp; tenon, half lap, or even dowels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A butt joint is extremely weak unless the woodworker somehow creates the long grain to long grain bond.  By not doing so, the glue would simply travel through the open pores, resulting in no bond, and fasteners would not have any fiber to grip onto.  The joint will fail if it sees any considerable stresses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why pocket holes are so popular.  Easy, repeatable, and produce a strong joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5205" LastActivityDate="2018-05-27T09:03:43.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7175" CreationDate="2018-05-27T12:04:32.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you use &lt;a href=&quot;https://m.ebay.com/itm/4-Galvanized-Steel-Complete-Bracket-Fitting-Bed-Rail-Fasteners-Furniture-Hardwar-/162713371314&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hook on headboard brackets&lt;/a&gt; for the long boards? In fact, you could use them for connecting all of the top pieces together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to handle the legs. Maybe you could resaw the outer boards in half. On the inner piece, on the outer side, counterbore a recess for a hex head, and drill a hole through the board. Epoxy a hex bolt in place, with the shaft of the bolt protruding into the bed area. Once you glue the two pieces of the rail together, you've created a captive bolt that won't turn. Drill corresponding holes in the legs, and secure then with a lock nut. You're want at least two holes bolts per leg for alignment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5195" LastActivityDate="2018-05-27T12:04:32.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7346" CreationDate="2018-05-27T21:06:32.830" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I went away for a month and today I opened the can on polyurethane that is about 1/3 full and it appears to be turning to a 'jelly' like consistency. Is this normal &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not what normally happens with oil-based varnishes once they've been opened but it is one of the things that can occur. It's much more common for varnishes and oil-based paints to skin over in the tin, and underneath the set skin you'll usually find some (sometimes quite a lot) of still-liquid product&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil-based varnishes and paints 'dry' by two means, the first being evaporation of the solvent (the drying phase) and the second by reacting with oxygen in the air (the curing phase). What has happened here is that the varnish has begun to cure from exposure to oxygen, either because there was enough air within the tin above the varnish or because the seal formed by the lid wasn't perfect so a very slow trickle of air could make its way into the tin, something that occurs fairly frequently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can you use it?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Possibly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is best to discard the current tin and buy fresh, but depending on how far the gelling has proceeded you may be able to use what remains once or twice more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the gel is quite firm it's not really usable any longer, you just won't be able to apply it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if the gel is still fairly soft, easily broken up and crushed with light finger pressure, and somewhat wet, the varnish is still just about usable. It can be either spread as-is (you need to work quickly because it will start to tack up much more quickly than previously) or you can attempt to break it down and dilute it somewhat with more mineral spirits/white spirit to get it back to somewhat like its original consistency, but some straining is very likely to be needed (see footnote 1 below on straining).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Avoiding this in future&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Obviously the container must have a tight-fitting lid&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, that's the first priority. So the rim of the tin and the sides of the lid must be kept clean and when the lid is replaced it has to be pressed fully home, if necessary by putting a scrap of wood on top and pressing down with both arms or tapping with a mallet or hammer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if the container has an airtight seal any air trapped inside contains oxygen which will start the curing process, the easiest ways to minimise this are to decant into a smaller container or add something to the original container to raise the liquid level. Glass marbles have long been recommended for this purpose, before that clean pebbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than reduce the amount of air that gets trapped inside the container another approach is to replace it with a non-reactive or inert gas. People who have access to compressed nitrogen or CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; through their work can use those, the rest of us must use a product such as the aptly named Bloxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Any remaining liquid varnish is still perfectly usable, but care much be exercised to avoid lumps or specs of set varnish from getting onto the work. The best way to do this is to pierce or peel off the skin, then pour the remaining varnish into a new container through a fine sieve or mesh. Old pantyhose/tights or stocking material make a great sieve for this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Each time a lid is prised off there's a chance that the metal can be distorted, which can prevent a tight seal from being possible when it's put back on. So as much as possible try to spread the distortion by using a wider implement (an old spoon can work well) and working around the rim, especially if you find the lid is stuck. Unfortunately it isn't always possible to prevent a lid from distorting badly, some are just so thin you &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; eventually damage them getting them off. When this happens it's vital if you want to save the rest of the varnish or paint that you decant to a fresh container with a tight-fitting lid or cap. Old, clean, food jars can work well for this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-05-27T21:06:32.830" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7354" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-29T19:55:34.303" Score="0" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry, I don't know what this is called so doing the best to describe it....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am building a custom built-in cabinet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know if there is a standard height of the outside finished face frame (specifically the horizontal rail above the toe kick) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This measurment would be from the floor of the cabinet to the top of the horizontal face frame rail?  A portion of this horizontal rail is typically covered by the bottom of the cabinet door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3554" LastActivityDate="2018-05-30T17:30:35.093" Title="What are the standard dimensions for cabinet making?" Tags="|cabinetry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7354" CreationDate="2018-05-30T15:37:26.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The floor of the cabinet is 3-1/2&quot; toe kick space + width of face frame stock&quot;, Top of the cabinet is 34-1/2&quot; allowing for a 1-1/2&quot; countertop to come to a 36&quot; height above floor. Disclaimer - In the US&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4817" LastEditorUserId="4817" LastEditDate="2018-05-30T17:30:35.093" LastActivityDate="2018-05-30T17:30:35.093" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7359" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7360" CreationDate="2018-05-31T05:52:49.490" Score="5" ViewCount="597" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a INGCO HPL01300 handplane and I'm kind of stuck on how to get started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have already seen many videos on how the Stanley is setup and it seems pretty easy with one nail at the back to change the depth of the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone please explain how the INGCO plane is setup? There are two nails that are meant to push the blade down but I am not sure how it's done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sorry if this is not a good question but I can't seem to find any instruction manual or video anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I truly appreciate some input on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5172" LastActivityDate="2018-05-31T12:39:33.823" Title="How do I set up the INGCO hand plane?" Tags="|hand-planing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7359" CreationDate="2018-05-31T12:07:23.897" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume you mean this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9nOuM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;INGCO Plane&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You unscrew the yellow ?plastic? knob towards the front of the plane, then adjust the position of the blade by turning the knurled knobs on top of the blade.  You will need to turn both knobs at once.  Once you have got the blade in the right position, you tighten the yellow knob again to keep it in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just as with the Stanley, you want to adjust the position of the blade with the plane upside down, and you sighting along the bottom surface.  You want the blade just visible as a bright line above the bottom of the plane, and evenly across the width of the plane (not poking out more one side than the other).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, you really want the last action on the knurled knobs to have been to push the blade out a little.  This way any slack between the blade and the knob will already have been taken up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1646" LastActivityDate="2018-05-31T12:07:23.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7359" CreationDate="2018-05-31T12:39:33.823" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This plane has a similar layout to the current Stanley SB4 (it has had various names over the years) and the &quot;Windsor Design&quot; No. 33 plane sold by Harbor Freight in the US.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/riDgG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/riDgG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;SB4, no. 33&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mechanism in these planes is essentially what is used in most modern spokeshaves, so searching for tips on how they are adjusted would bring up much more advice. But it's essentially very simple:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you withdraw the cutter by screwing the two nuts one way (upwards)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you advance the cutter by screwing the nuts the other way (towards the sole)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;to move the cutter laterally if needed (that is, move one corner up or down to change the angle of the cutting edge) you adjust only one of the two nuts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the above generally with mechanisms like this the advice is to &lt;em&gt;slightly&lt;/em&gt; loosen the bolt that holds the top cap in place, to more easily allow for the blade to be moved, then after the adjustments are done you tighten the cap back down again to ensure the cutter doesn't shift in use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Not a good plane&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Sorry to say it but unfortunately this is the case, so I hope you don't have hopes to be able to do fine work with it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In recent years the Windsor Design no. 33 has been made fun of online quite a lot and the Stanley version before that has been reviled for decades, and has actually been called the worst plane ever made*. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the adjustment mechanism is already considered very poor for a plane, but in addition to that notice there is one major difference with the HPL01300 compared to the above two planes, it has a body made from bent steel, not machined cast iron which is very much stiffer and stronger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All planes with thin steel bodies like this are cheap tools intended for only the most basic or roughest work — more construction site than anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*This is not true to be honest, and it represents an unfair double standard. Although compared to even a mediocre Bailey-pattern plane they are a definite step downwards with careful setup they &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be made to work quite well — at least as well as simpler block planes that have no adjustable mouth or inbuilt lateral adjustment, which aren't heavily criticised compared to their (much better) cousins which do have those features.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-05-31T12:39:33.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7175" CreationDate="2018-06-01T03:00:24.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your approach is decidedly non-standard, and worryingly so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend you stick with the standard approach - bed bolts, head/foot boards and side rails. The approach you're showing is necessarily restricted to very short support elements on your hardware, and given the stresses beds are subjected to that's not a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="463" LastActivityDate="2018-06-01T03:00:24.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7364" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7374" CreationDate="2018-06-01T03:42:05.033" Score="1" ViewCount="133" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have laser cut the ends of a bicycle brake cable cable chain platform on a CNC I am building. I have looped the bicycle brake cables around one end and tucked the end of the cable through the loop. There is enough friction that the cables stay reasonably taught, though I suspect during normal use, this would sag. Does anyone have a suggestion about how to secure the ends to prevent slipping? I thought I might solder the cable together, but thought a mechanical option would be better, preferably one that would allow me to easily detach the cables should one of the wood brackets break.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qICe1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qICe1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cable chain holder bracket for bicycle brake cable shelf&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5218" LastActivityDate="2018-06-03T00:56:20.050" Title="Securing the cable chain on a CNC gantry" Tags="|design|router|tools|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6089" CreationDate="2018-06-01T09:03:30.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the British tradition, such work would be done with a wooden bow saw (also called a buck saw). A nice feature of such a saw is the direction of the cut is nearly independent of where the handle is oriented, so you can cut a deep tenon as deep as you like, assuming the saw's frame is free to move. Such saws are in Europe in place of backed saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Crjc2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Crjc2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bow saw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastActivityDate="2018-06-01T09:03:30.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7364" CreationDate="2018-06-01T09:52:50.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One option you have is to use a product known as a split bolt. It's commonly used to join ground wire to an existing ground lead without having to break or cut the existing lead:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ScJUN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ScJUN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;split bolt&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used them to secure 1/8&quot; diameter steel cable for various purposes. Inexpensive and common in big-box hardware stores. So many links returned from my search making it impractical to suggest any specific source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2018-06-01T09:52:50.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7367" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7368" CreationDate="2018-06-01T15:17:32.087" Score="3" ViewCount="45" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a dumb thing for work, I just need to know if &quot;bradder&quot; is short-hand for &quot;brad nailer.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Bradder&quot; is coming from this product at Home Depot: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/p/FASCO-F21P-GN-31A-CT-Bradder-11132F/205179850?keyword=205179850&amp;amp;semanticToken=20030+++%3E++++st%3A%7B205179850%7D%3Ast++cn%3A%7B4%3A0%7D++205179850+%7Bproductkey%7D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Click me to see the bradder&quot;&gt;F21P GN-31A (CT) Bradder&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5221" LastActivityDate="2018-06-01T16:22:52.223" Title="Is a &quot;bradder&quot; the same thing as a &quot;brad nailer&quot;?" Tags="|power-tools|tools|tool-identification|nailing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7367" CreationDate="2018-06-01T16:22:52.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it is. Those hip talking advertising people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4817" LastActivityDate="2018-06-01T16:22:52.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7364" CreationDate="2018-06-01T22:00:52.847" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems like you could use a cable tensioner like they use in cabled railings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ones on amazon seem pricey but I'm sure there's a plastic version you could get in the hardware store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This Old House shows their usage in the railing system. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kNFalmwg3nY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kNFalmwg3nY&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1HGAW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1HGAW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cable tensioner&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="308" LastActivityDate="2018-06-01T22:00:52.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7370" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-01T23:32:55.507" Score="3" ViewCount="1455" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to create a modern interior door. No rails/stiles. Just horizontal stacked panels stained. I plan to use maple or birch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to use a paper-thin hardwood veneer plywood. I've read that gluing thicker wood to ply will lead to failure. So, how do engineered hardwood manufacturers manage to glue veneer 5/32&quot; thick to ply core?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How were slab doors done in the olden days done? Solid wood? If so, how did they avoid wood movement issues?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's more likely to prevent warping: solid wood frame with mortise/tenon or say baltic ply core?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4893" LastActivityDate="2022-10-22T19:03:45.463" Title="How to glue hardwood to plywood core door?" Tags="|plywood|veneer|door|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7371" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-01T23:33:28.263" Score="7" ViewCount="301" Body="&lt;p&gt;The aprons are 1&quot; wide and 3.5&quot; tall. The table is made from 3 1x8 boards. I'd like to figure out a way to attach the top that accounts for wood movement. Would those figure eight washers or cleats work since the aprons aren't square?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B9AGl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B9AGl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Crossed apron table joinery&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5222" LastEditorUserId="5222" LastEditDate="2018-06-01T23:42:48.717" LastActivityDate="2022-12-05T04:06:45.830" Title="How should I attached table top to crossed aprons?" Tags="|wood-movement|table-making|tabletop|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7372" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-02T15:26:53.630" Score="3" ViewCount="476" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thinking about making a workbench (80 cm long, 60 cm wide, 85cm high) out of 21 mm plywood, CNC-cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gluing 10cm by 10.5cm legs out of 5 layers and making the tabletop out of 2 layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this be any stable with changes in humidity? (the legs remaining straight and the top flat)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5224" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2018-06-02T17:39:57.953" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T20:08:50.373" Title="Workbench out of plywood, will it deform significantly with humidity changes?" Tags="|design|plywood|workbench|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7373" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-02T18:32:18.390" Score="1" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to transfer a caliper diameter to the end face of a cylinder on my wood lathe. How do I determine that the caliper is centered in order for that diameter to be transferred?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example I have a cylinder like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2IeVK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2IeVK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and calipers like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/soKNZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/soKNZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say, hypothetically the cylinder has a diameter of 10 units. I want to mark the bounds of a smaller, 5 unit circle using the caliper. How would I do that in a way that's precisely centered?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the question is unclear, please let me know and I can include more info&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5225" LastEditorUserId="5225" LastEditDate="2018-06-02T18:38:30.703" LastActivityDate="2018-06-21T15:56:26.840" Title="how do you transfer diameter from caliper to cylinder?" Tags="|technique|lathe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7364" CreationDate="2018-06-03T00:56:20.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I have found the ticket. A cable stop that is 6mm in diameter should just barely fit the clearance between holes. If I alternate the orientation of the bolt on top/bottom, I should be able to tighten with a socket too. Blind dumb luck on the engineering tolerances there. $15.50 with shipping for 5.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nkztT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nkztT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Throttle cable stop with 2.2mm hole &amp;amp; 6mm outer diameter&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5218" LastActivityDate="2018-06-03T00:56:20.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7375" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7382" CreationDate="2018-06-03T20:30:43.970" Score="2" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;New to planes, so not sure.&#xA;This is a cheap one.&#xA;I get dust instead of shavings when I try it on a piece of dry wood.&#xA;Is this because the blade is not sharp?&#xA;Wrong angle of the blade?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; dumbest mistake ever, I've put the blade the bevel up...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the plane is doing something, not perfect but probably if I know how to sharpen and adjust the blade properly (trued sharpening on a sheet of 250 grit sandpaper) it will be better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VmiXu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VmiXu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;plane, side view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UELal.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UELal.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;plane, top view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zvlay.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zvlay.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;plane, blade, bottom side view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5224" LastEditorUserId="5224" LastEditDate="2018-06-03T23:14:21.900" LastActivityDate="2018-06-04T16:14:03.560" Title="Is this plane any good for anything?" Tags="|plane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7376" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7377" CreationDate="2018-06-04T03:39:12.773" Score="6" ViewCount="1126" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to make a table leg's bottom face flat and square with the sides, using handtools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have drawn my knife line around the four faces for my desired length, and then proceeded to handsaw as close to my line as my skill level would allow, keeping a safety margin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom face's area (2.75&quot; x 2.75&quot;) is too large to use with a handplane shooting board, so I've resorted to sanding with a block, but the sanding tends to eat away at the edges faster than the center, resulting in a slighly round bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if it's one of those things which is solved with more sawing skill, or just a trip to the circular saw bench (which I don't have access to).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ma8d1m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ma8d1m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;beefy table leg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ma8d1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;High res link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit after trying out planing -- block plane works quite well. no sanding.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've obtained satisfactory results by following the advice presented in the answers. Planing, backed by a sacrificial piece, achieves satisfactory results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I First tried with a bench plane (#4)&lt;/em&gt;, which allowed okay results, but it is a bit clumsy to balance on a surface this small. It really helped  to attack the edge of the piece holding the plane at a diagonal angle w.r.t. the direction of motion (i.e. so that when you make a new pass, only one point along the iron's edge is in contact with the edge of the workpiece). This way the plane gets a better chance to slice in, rather than just stop at once as soon as the iron bites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wegpum.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wegpum.png&quot; alt=&quot;diagonal angle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UA0cHm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UA0cHm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;with bench plane&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UA0cH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;High res link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Left: illustrates the diagonal passes I mention. That image is flawed in the sense that it's missing a sacrificial piece (image is from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wonkeedonkeetools.co.uk/woodworking-hand-planes/how-to-use-a-bench-plane-to-plane-end-grain/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;how-to-use-a-bench-plane-to-plane-end-grain&lt;/a&gt;). Right: bare-bones setup on a workmate&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When returning the plane to take a new pass, the throat's opening would sometimes catch into the unsupported sides (opposite to the sacrificial piece), so I've lost some small/medium chips along the front edge and corners. Closing the throat of the plane by moving the &lt;a href=&quot;https://paulsellers.com/2015/07/understanding-the-frog-in-your-throat/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;frog forward&lt;/a&gt; helped minimize that. It's not a setting I usually play with, but it helped in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Breakout with bench plane:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SGud5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SGud5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;breakout with bench plane&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(I'll put a chamfer on the corners, so it won't be too visible)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;i&gt;Then I switched over to a small block plane, which was much easier to handle&lt;/i&gt;. With diagonal passes, and a well-sharpened iron, I was able to produce very fine shavings. Like with the bench plane, I closed the throat as much as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With block plane:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Um5ATm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Um5ATm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;block plane - fine shavings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Um5AT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;High res link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's more difficult to plane to a true-flat with the smaller block plane, but I would go down to my scribed line on one side, then turn the next face over in my vise and repeat. This would get the four edges to be on the same geometric-plane (assuming the layout is correct). To eliminate any remaining convex profile (i.e. belly in center), I finished with circular motions focused around the center point, until I reached the same height as the edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The block plane (with a well sharpened iron) is quite satisfying to use, and gets me on the line, without any sanding required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2018-06-21T18:16:06.750" LastActivityDate="2018-06-21T18:16:06.750" Title="How to make bottom face of beefy table leg flat and square with sides" Tags="|hand-tools|hand-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7376" CreationDate="2018-06-04T07:59:00.570" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks to me like you've got about a 1mm of wood to remove.  Hand sanding is going to take &lt;em&gt;forever&lt;/em&gt; to remove that much wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clamp a piece of end-grain to the back face of the leg, and then use your hand plane.  The problem though, is that planing will have the same tendency to go at the edges rather than the centre too.  The solution is better hand-saw skills, or machinery: sorry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1646" LastActivityDate="2018-06-04T07:59:00.570" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7378" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7380" CreationDate="2018-06-04T08:07:43.623" Score="5" ViewCount="4264" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to plane boards to the same thickness?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was recently using and researching a bit into bench-top planers like: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ryobitools.com/products/details/13-surface-planer-with-rapidset-blade-system&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.ryobitools.com/products/details/13-surface-planer-with-rapidset-blade-system&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first thought was there would be some minimum thickness &quot;stopper&quot; that could be locked in for a given project, and then I could start shaving a bit off a handful of boards until they reached that thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears this and other planers don't offer such a feature (or have I just not found it)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thinking about another way to achieve the goal: it seems I could pass all boards through, lower the height of the cutter head, pass them all through again, lower again, and so on, with the final height being the same. That way seems like more work-especially if the starting thicknesses are significantly different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5227" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2018-06-04T20:53:13.850" LastActivityDate="2018-06-04T20:53:13.850" Title="How to plane boards to the same thickness" Tags="|thickness-planer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7379" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-04T10:25:33.023" Score="1" ViewCount="610" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a stitch&amp;amp;glue plywood boat that is coated with fiberglass and epoxy on the outside. I am trying to determine whenever I need to add epoxy primer on top of the epoxy coat before painting. The dealer who I bought the epoxy from says that it is not needed, as the resin he sold will act as a primer itself. I called another store, specializing in paints, and they say that I do need to buy epoxy primer from them to get a good grip for the paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will be using two coats of polyurethane paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone clear this up? Is there any practical difference between epoxy resin and epoxy primer? Do I really need to spend extra money on the expensive primer, when I still have lot of resin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4999" LastActivityDate="2018-06-04T10:25:33.023" Title="Do I need to use epoxy primer on fiberglass/epoxy before painting?" Tags="|paint|epoxy|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7378" CreationDate="2018-06-04T12:09:53.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Benchtop planers frequently do have positive stops at predetermined intervals. The Ryobi AP1300, for example, has them at 1/4&quot; intervals. I don't know about the 1301 model, but it's certainly something to look for. If the planer doesn't have these stops, or you want to plane to a thickness not corresponding to one of the stops (eg, 5/8&quot; on the AP1300), then the approach is basically what you had come up with... it's not really a lot more work, since each board has to go through the same treatment anyway you cut it. It does take some more organization though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but the bigger questions is : Do you really need every piece to be the same thickness? Do they really need to be interchangable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2018-06-04T12:09:53.940" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7378" CreationDate="2018-06-04T12:34:41.293" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I work with a lot of pallet wood and frequently many of the boards will be different thickness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I could pass all boards through, lower the height, pass them all through again, lower again, and so on&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is exactly what I do. My planer does not have set stops so I cannot 100% accurately come back to the same thickness every time. So that is why I do exactly what you said when I want to have the same thickness for a group of boards. This is also why I try and make sure I do all the boards in one &quot;session&quot; so I do not have to remember where I am in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Collect all the boards I want to do at once and work one side at a time. Passing them all through at the same thickness. Lower the height and repeat until I am happy with the results. This can mean that I am passing boards that are not getting cut at every pass. I still put the board through though to be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have access to a joiner it certainly works well with this process as you can use that to try and get one side and adjoining edge true before planing the other side.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2018-06-04T16:13:34.730" LastActivityDate="2018-06-04T16:13:34.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7375" CreationDate="2018-06-04T16:14:03.560" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please refer to my Answer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/7359/how-do-i-set-up-the-ingco-hand-plane&quot;&gt;this Question&lt;/a&gt; from only a few days ago, this plane and that plane are nearly identical so all my comments there apply equally here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I get dust instead of shavings when I try it on a piece of dry wood. Is this because the blade is not sharp?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very likely. Most hand planes (including those that are at a much higher level than this) are not shipped with the iron sharp and ready to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is actually a long tradition in woodworking of edged tools not being sold with cutting edges sharp and while certain high-end makers now ship their tools extremely sharp it is still most common for tools to be packaged for sale with only a basic grind performed on the edge, usually at 25°, and final sharpening (called &lt;em&gt;honing&lt;/em&gt;) is expected to be done by the end user. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many previous Question here on sharpening if you want to search for more info on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-06-04T16:14:03.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7383" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-04T20:08:00.327" Score="3" ViewCount="3972" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the process of replacing methanol solvents (methyl hydrate) in my shop with arguably less toxic ethanol-based &quot;denatured alcohol&quot;, I've encountered difficulty in finding any product labelled exactly as &quot;denatured alcohol&quot;, and at a decent price. I suspect this varies from area to area, as ethanol sales are often fraught with legal constraints. I am in Canada, BC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best &quot;thing&quot; to use to dissolve shellac flakes, considering health side effects (fumes, spills, accidents, etc.), and price? I'll need to make a gallon (4L) of shellac.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My original question was &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/7279/is-shellac-that-has-been-dissolved-with-methyl-hydrate-methanol-toxic-once-dr&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, but I wanted a place to share new findings about potential substitutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2019-04-16T18:10:23.983" LastActivityDate="2019-04-18T19:01:00.277" Title="What are the best substitutes when nothing labelled as &quot;Denatured alcohol&quot; can be found in your area?" Tags="|safety|toxicity|solvents|shellac|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7383" CreationDate="2018-06-04T20:08:00.327" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found two products readily available in BC that one might not suspect to be denatured alcohol, but despite not having &quot;denatured alcohol&quot; written anywhere on the product, they &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; denatured alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BioFlame: 95.6% ethanol, and 4.40% ethyl acetate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;LV Lacquer Thinner: 91% ethanol, 4% butanol, %4 isopropanol.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not a chemist (please step in if you are), so I can't assess which of the following is the safest, but I think they are fairly comparable, prices set aside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manufacturers are not obliged to list ingredients on labels for non-food items, so one must rely on safety data sheets to determine their content. These sheets &lt;em&gt;do not&lt;/em&gt; accompany the products, so what is in the actual bottle might vary based on when and where it was purchased. I recommend you double check your sources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;BioFlame ($26CAD/3.78L)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1TxNWm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1TxNWm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;BioFlame3.78L&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was recommended BioFlame, which is available at Canadian Tire.&#xA;It is an ethanol-based combustible designed for alcohol burners. Bioflame's sales department affirms (in email) it is often used by woodworkers. At the time of this writing (early June 2018), its constituents are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;95.6% ethanol, and 4.40% ethyl acetate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've contacted CDNTire's hazardous substances team, and they've kindly provided an up-to-date safety data sheet from the manufacturer (Recochem).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Safety Data Sheet (SDS): &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xfdvI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;p1&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ucQdS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;p2 (ingredients)&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jjCY2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;p3&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4qi9T.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;p4&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0PpRg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;p5 (toxicology)&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bInNJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;p6&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/74YUo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;p7&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f38WG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;p8&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I also found an older sheet for the same product, and the product had different constituents back in 2010: 95% ethanol, and 5% 2-propanol.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shellac/Lacquer Thinner ($19CAD/946mL)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not labelled as such, but LeeValley's (LV) Shellac thinner ingredients would classify it as denatured alcohol:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;91% ethanol, 4% butanol, %4 isopropanol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Safety Data Sheet (SDS): &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZuTmQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;p1&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vjyqw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;p2 (ingredients)&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7JVZx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;p3&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RMjtJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;p4 (toxicology1)&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QedZH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;p5 (toxicology2)&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NNzH6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;p6&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm told &quot;Isobutyl&quot; is a mix of butanol, and isopropanol, and can be used as a flavor additive to make things taste extremely bad (and bitter) for non-consumption. I'll take their word for it. Do &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; taste it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M2iSQm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M2iSQm.png&quot; alt=&quot;ShellacThinner&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2019-02-19T21:59:51.723" LastActivityDate="2019-02-19T21:59:51.723" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7373" CreationDate="2018-06-04T21:01:13.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spin the piece on the lathe and put a pencil as close to the center as you can.  This should draw a small circle.  Set a compass to the desired radius (half the diameter).  With the piece stationary put the compass's pin in the center of the circle and draw your desired circle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2018-06-21T15:56:26.840" LastActivityDate="2018-06-21T15:56:26.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7386" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7389" CreationDate="2018-06-05T01:44:21.530" Score="4" ViewCount="276" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making the joint for the leg shown in the following diagram, using handtools. There are two intersecting through-mortises. A tall one (for the apron running topleft-bottomright in the picture), and a square one (running topright-bottomleft).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PCVRHm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PCVRHm.png&quot; alt=&quot;double mortise&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have (incorrectly) started my joint with the tall through mortise first. I should have used a sacrificial piece to occupy the first mortise hole while working on the second, but I didn't, and my chisel blow has broken out maybe a 1/4&quot; chunk from the lower inner wall. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/35TJvm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/35TJvm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;leg1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/116ZVm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/116ZVm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;leg2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;On the left, the overall view of the leg. On the right, inside view from right side (high-res &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/116ZV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It didn't break off cleanly, so I removed the chips. On the picture on the right, I've drawn a rough polygonal outline of the breakout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can this hole be re-filled with something? Or should I just restart the leg? I considered making an epoxy or glue+dust fill, and re-chiselling around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2018-10-16T07:30:49.787" LastActivityDate="2018-10-16T07:30:49.787" Title="How to repair breakout at the intersection of two through-mortises (inside the joint)?" Tags="|hand-tools|mortise-and-tenon|filler|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5671" CreationDate="2018-06-05T05:26:21.643" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that the failure to line up is due to small compounded errors, there are a series of small posture and behavioral changes you can make to help make your work more accurate, and you can make guides to help you control the tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, given that your mortise holes don't line up, you can probably fix them by analyzing which wall is out of square, and compensating by enlarging your mortise one way or the other. Tenons are always cut custom-fit with the mortise, so yes, you could potentially adjust either, with a preference with keeping the outside of the work pristine when given a choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you already have tenons for the mortise, you can sometimes remove the gap around the tenon by gluing a sliver of wood on the tenon, and paring it down to match the adjusted mortise dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Twist&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The twist can arise because the grain differs from one corner of the chisel to another. The presence of small knots or denser wood around where there used to be a branch can slow down one side of the chisel more than the other, and cause twist. The twist is normal, but you can (and should) minimize it. Definitely reposition if you feel the chisel twisting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Visual help / Posture&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Place your body behind your chisel, and visually ensure that your chisel is perpendicular to the work surface. Human eyes and brain excel at determining whether two lines are parallel. To take advantage of that, at the end of your workpiece, place a clamp as a visual aid (and verify with a square that your clamp is held plumb). As you chisel, visually check that you are parallel to the clamp -- this will ensure your side walls stay parallel and straight down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Along the way, you can use a combination square inside the mortise to see if the mortise walls are 90deg from the reference face. You can also use the square as a depth check, which is especially useful in the corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Force feedback and Hearing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bench chisel works better when you take small bites with it (compared to a mortising chisel). You'll feel it sink more or less easily along the bevelled slope until it hits the bottom of your mortise, and then you'll be able to go one, maybe two, &quot;hits&quot; deeper. This causes the pyramid-shaped peak at the bottom of your mortise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you try to go deeper than one or two blows past the previous bottom depth, a couple things will happen. It will be harder to make progress, and you'll be compressing fibres more than you are cutting them. Compressing fibres will make it harder to keep your mortise bottom straight, and will exacerbate twist and tear along the walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can go by feel, and by sound. The mallet's sound will change as you reach the bottom of your current &quot;run&quot;. When you hear the mallet sound's deadening, it's an indication that you should move the chisel over and start a new &quot;run&quot;. This way will save you energy too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Layout accuracy&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you scribe your lines (e.g. with a mortise gauge) on a through mortise, do the measurement for both openings from the same reference face. This way guarantees that at least one of the mortise walls will be kept at the same distance from that face -- and your hole should line up better when you flip the piece around. It is also a good idea to double-check that your work-piece faces are square to one another before you start digging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The job is easier if you can design your mortise to have the same exact width as your chisel (or just a hair larger than the chisel). That way, as long as you keep to your line on one side, the other wall should also be at a same distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Jigs&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can spend time to craft a simple guide aid. Craft a wooden guide that you can squeeze in your vise on the side of your work piece. The guide should offer a vertical surface that is perpendicular to your work face. When you hug the side of your chisel against the guide, your chisel should be straight above your mortise line. Sliding the chisel up and down when resting flat against the guide will allow you to pare down the walls with very satisfying precision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7BXxem.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7BXxem.png&quot; alt=&quot;mortise guide&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Example 1: End grain jig (from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/wedged-mortise-and-tenon&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;popular woodworking&lt;/a&gt; ). The angle can be arbitrary. Here, the 87degree jig creates a taper that will accommodate a wedge.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/epwFim.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/epwFim.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;mortise guide 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Example 2: Jig for side walls (from &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworkingmasterclasses.com/videos/paul-sellers-mortise-tenon-technique/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;woodworking masterclasses&lt;/a&gt; ). Longer chisels help.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chisel halfway down the work-piece, making sure at each stroke that your chisel's edge is touching the guide. this will prevent drift. Flip the piece around, but keep the guide on the same side of the vise. This way the mortise is dug precisely at the same distance from the edge -- which is constant because of the guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can pare down the wall of the guide once in a while as you go down to make sure you can keep the side of your chisel flush with the guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, for instance, you're making 4 legs and they're roughly the same dimensions, but not &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; the same, the guide is a great way to ensure that your mortise is in the same spot, relative to the reference face, on all legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Videos&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've personally found the free video (on woodworkingmasterclasses.com by Sellers) titled &quot;How to Make a Table&quot;, Episode 2 (part of a series) quite helpful in concentrating and reinforcing a lot of the mortising technique knowledge spread over similar videos. In this video, namely, you'll hear &quot;If your chisel wants to twist, don't let it.&quot; The search on the site is not the best. Click &quot;Library&quot; at the top, and in the search section you have to tick &quot;episodes&quot; under video type, and then enter the name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2018-10-30T17:04:39.607" LastActivityDate="2018-10-30T17:04:39.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7388" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-05T08:47:31.987" Score="1" ViewCount="344" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now to be honest this is specific to the UK, which if this site is anything like StackOverflow, means my question will soon be closed as &quot;too localised&quot;. However, please consider that the UK is very small relative to the US for example, and sourcing wood is problematic as much original timber is hard to come by.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for places to obtain plywood (reclaimed is fine if I can find large enough sheets), initially for shop projects. I'm only just starting out this new hobby and it strikes me that £40 for a sheet of plywood is fairly expensive for building basic cabinets etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously I've looked at &quot;big box&quot; stores like Wickes, but all their stuff (timber and sheet) is rubbish from a combination of poor manufacturing and poor storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard of Jericho's reclamation centre near Oxford, but that's a long way from me. Are there any tricks people know for obtaining wood more locally? Things like going to new housing estates and asking to purchase offcuts etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3516" LastActivityDate="2018-06-18T16:22:20.653" Title="Sourcing Wood for non-commercial DIY Projects" Tags="|lumber|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7386" CreationDate="2018-06-05T12:05:17.230" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need to repair this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're using a tusk tenon, so basically everything is going to be held in place by the wedge. With a different style of M&amp;amp;T joint, secured with glue, one could theorise that the reduced glue surface area might be an issue but it's of no relevance here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But even if this were a glued joint I still think it's nothing to worry about. If you took apart old furniture made in the heyday of hand-tool workmanship I think you'd be surprised at how often you'd find chipout of exactly this sort this inside intersecting mortises.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-06-05T12:05:17.230" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7388" CreationDate="2018-06-05T12:57:04.503" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trying to source materials for free I think the main thing is to keep your eyes open and nab anything suitable you find as and when you see it, like when looking for pallets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically you'll be eyeing any skip you drive past in case there's some wood or sheet material sticking out of it that you can take&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, poking your nose into any house renovations or building sites to ask if they have anything they'll be throwing out&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. Those are possibly the two most common ways to acquire 2x softwoods, ply and occasionally other materials like worktop offcuts for free 'on your travels'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another source worth definitely worth checking are the free-ads sites like Preloved and Gumtree, where stuff is offered for free or very cheaply basically to offload it and get it out of someone's hair as fast as possible (e.g. when clearing out a garage or a shed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last option worth trying is the local reclamation yard (or multiples if you have more than one within easy striking distance). These are of course not set up to allow members of the public to take stuff away but you lose nothing by asking politely of the staff. Explaining that you're only starting out and just want it to build stuff for the workshop/garage may gain you a sympathetic ear. This might not be viable depending on the staff (it's not uncommon to find them to be grumpy old farts to say the least..... dealing with the public all day every day will do that to a person!) or the council's H&amp;amp;S rules might be very tight and the blokes on site just can't allow it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last option I can think of is a semi-commercial route, going to a proper timber yard that stocks reasonable quality plywood and knows how to store it and asking if they have any plywood that's gotten edge damage or is too dirty to sell in the normal way&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;. This can, at the right yard, net you stuff for a steep discount. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Ask first before raiding a skip if at all possible, this is always best practice. And never trespass to get at one. Although when a skip is outside on public ground the stuff inside is generally considered fair game this is not always the case, and there are no legal precedents you can confidently use as a defence if the skip owner objects. In short, you &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be guilty of theft if you don't ask and get permission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; This in particular can be surprisingly lucrative if you only need a finite amount of material, since a builder's discards from just one job could keep you in sheet goods for cabinets and jigs for the foreseeable future. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; From being dropped or run into by the forklift, accidents happen even in the best-managed yards. The edge damage will need to be cut off, I wouldn't attempt to repair it as it's almost never worth the effort. As for the dirt, a surprising amount of surface filth can be cleaned off with a damp cloth and/or by scraping or sanding, and afterwards it can look practically new. I've even gotten reasonable-looking stuff out of builder's discards that were spattered with cement or mortar, it was quite a lot of work cleaning that off and the same won't always be doable but it gives you an idea of what you can deal with if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2018-06-07T15:38:51.897" LastActivityDate="2018-06-07T15:38:51.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7391" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7392" CreationDate="2018-06-05T14:49:03.890" Score="3" ViewCount="345" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, I might have used wrong term in a question title, not sure if what I need to do can really be called &quot;dado&quot;. Feel free to correct me in that case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what I need to do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ptekQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ptekQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speaking about the left and right pieces of it, there is a thing which I referred as &quot;dado&quot; - some material removed to create a slot with a rounded end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to ask you - what is the best and easiest way to do it? In which ways the way I'm going to go (described below) might be improved?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my plan - use a router table with a straight bit and cut it with several passes in such way:&#xA;1) Set a small material removal (let's say 1mm above the table surface).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Set up a stop block on the left part of the fence not to cut through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Set a feather stops before and after the bit to prevent kickback (as the detail I'm going to cut is quite small)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Enable the router, push the detail through from the right side until it reaches the stop block&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5) Disable the router, only then remove a piece, rise the bit a little bit and repeat routing. Repeat this until I cut through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm actually asking this question because I'm completely new to power router and not sure which operations are safe for me and which of it are safe for detail I'm working on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5232" OwnerDisplayName="Alexey Malev" LastEditorUserId="5232" LastEditDate="2018-06-05T22:52:08.280" LastActivityDate="2018-06-05T22:52:08.280" Title="Routing a through dado in a small piece of wood" Tags="|router|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7391" CreationDate="2018-06-05T15:12:54.940" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd cut the radius with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drill_bit#Forstner_bits&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;forstner bit&lt;/a&gt; and then use a table saw (or miter saw) to cut the straights. Once that's done, bullnose the edges by following with the router. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Full-depth cuts with a router are challenging and tend to result in burn. Plus, it's somewhat difficult to get a very straight line that way, especially on a small workpiece. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2116" OwnerDisplayName="isherwood" LastActivityDate="2018-06-05T15:12:54.940" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7391" CreationDate="2018-06-05T15:15:17.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;How wide is that slot? And how much material is left at the bottom?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may be much easier with a bandsaw, scroll saw, or even a jigsaw. Those saws excel at cutting tight curves. I'd also be worried about your piece breaking on the router table, especially as you make the final pass and the least amount of material is left to hold it all together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could hog out most of the waste with a saw (just about any saw, even a hand saw) or drill (ideally on a drill press), and then proceed with the routing, which would be a bit safer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do use the router, make sure to use push sticks or push blocks, to keep your hands away from the bit. You mention the piece is small, so push blocks are even more important. You may even want to fashion a jig to hold your piece, providing more surface area for your push block to grab onto. Other than that, your proposed plan seems OK; you could probably cut more than 1mm at a time, but being conservative in woodworking is more likely to lead to keeping all of your fingers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" OwnerDisplayName="mmathis" LastActivityDate="2018-06-05T15:15:17.293" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7394" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-05T18:37:35.307" Score="2" ViewCount="1754" Body="&lt;p&gt;We bought an old oak table that came with 2 leaves each 2' x 5' x 1&quot;. One is bowed slightly on one end. Is there a way to flatten that end?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5231" LastActivityDate="2018-06-06T21:12:42.743" Title="Flattening Warped Table Leaf" Tags="|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7395" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-06T12:04:33.360" Score="1" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having trouble trying to source a replacement for the stay pictured below&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/umHnO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/umHnO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://photos.app.goo.gl/wQSDOYk8U0kD0ptx2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://photos.app.goo.gl/wQSDOYk8U0kD0ptx2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone suggest an alternative that might be more readily available (ideally in the UK)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shaped part sits in a recess on the side of the cabinet and allow the leaf to drop down, move forward and be held. Not the best explanation but hopefully clear enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5233" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2018-06-06T16:28:51.883" LastActivityDate="2018-06-06T16:31:15.290" Title="Looking for an alternative to this broken stay for a drop leaf" Tags="|hinges|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7395" CreationDate="2018-06-06T16:31:15.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A fellow was referred to our makerspace with a similar problem, slightly more complex than yours. The solution was to have a member purchase raw brass stock (expensive) and mill the shape necessary to create the desired part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As in your case, the expense was secondary to the lack of availability of a retail part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be able to locate a makerspace in your area with members of sufficient skill and equipment to duplicate this process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your part is not particularly complex and may be possible to create with hand tools. This consideration does not exclude it from the local makerspace concept.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2018-06-06T16:31:15.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7397" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-06T21:04:25.610" Score="1" ViewCount="752" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to cut some boards to be used as the covers for a book. The boards would typically be about an eighth of an inch thick and book size in dimensions (the average book is 9&quot; x 6&quot;). What would be the best way to cut the boards to minimize the chance of warping? Since book covers are not attached to anything, there is nothing to resist the board from warping, so a cut is needed that will cut to an absolute minimum the chance of warping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I see it, there are two basic possible approaches. One is to cut the board radially through the log (shown as A in the figure below). The other is to cut the log like a salami, and then cut the rectangle of the board out of the salami slices (shown as B in the figure below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J7tJH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J7tJH.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Method A has the advantage that a smaller log could be used. For example, a 9x6 cover would require a timber of 6&quot; diameter using the cut in A, but in B, the diameter has to be the length of the diagonal, or about 11&quot; in the case of a 9x6 cover, which is almost double A. However, on the plus side, a single tree will provide a lot of salami slices, but only a small number of radial cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, as I understand it, a tree absorbs water longitudinally, so in the case of A, moisture would be absorbed at the top and bottom of the board, so this could lead to the top and the bottom swelling more than the middle. However, in B, the moisture would be absorbed equally across the face of the board. So, based on this idea my expectation is that B would be less susceptible to warpage, but I am asking here to verify this idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2018-06-06T21:29:57.747" Title="Best way to cut a thin board that resists warping" Tags="|warp|moisture|making-lumber|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7394" CreationDate="2018-06-06T21:12:42.743" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Add a bracing bar to the bottom of the table that holds the board flat. The table is clamped strongly to bend out the bow, then the board is screwed into the brace. The supports for the table have to be strong and rigid for this to work.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Flatten the board itself. To do this, the board is removed from the table and soaked in a trough of water for 48 hours. Then the board is clamped to a rigid and flat surface while it dries. Ideally the board should be allowed to dry in a room that has a dehumidifier so that the air in the room is very dry. When the board is perfectly dry, it is removed from the clamps and shellacked so that it cannot absorb water (which would cause it to bow again).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2018-06-06T21:12:42.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7397" CreationDate="2018-06-06T21:13:47.640" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A, an extreme example of quartersawing, is the way to go. B will not so much warp as check catastrophically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="463" LastActivityDate="2018-06-06T21:13:47.640" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7397" CreationDate="2018-06-06T21:29:57.747" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you familiar with how the wood fibers are aligned in a tree? They (mostly) run from top to bottom and are bonded together with lignin. If you used the 'B' method the wood fibers would be running into and out of the page when viewing your diagram. This would make the bond between neighbouring fibers short and weak - the cover would snap easily. This is why wood is very rarely cut this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For stability you want &lt;em&gt;quarter sawn&lt;/em&gt; wood. This is because wood expands twice as much in the direction along the growth rings than in the direction across the growth rings. This makes flat/plain sawn boards warp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZDE4D.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZDE4D.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;quarter sawn vs plain sawn&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As shown in the picture, ideally you would take a larger log and make a whole bunch of covers from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are limited in the size of log you have then method 'A' might work; but I believe the center of the tree may cause issues, in some species at least. Don't quote me on that though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be veneering over thin plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3343" LastActivityDate="2018-06-06T21:29:57.747" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7388" CreationDate="2018-06-07T17:28:37.517" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of the builder's merchant chains, some are more professional and some are aimed more at DIY'ers. The more DIY ones tend to be more expensive with lower quality wood but they have better websites with clearer pricing and will often cut your plywood for you. Wickes is a bit like this in my experience - I tend to use RGB or Jewsons. It depends quite a bit on the individual shop though. Don't be afraid to just walk in and ask for advice - some people think they'll be chased out if they aren't professionals. Go and see how they store their plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;£40 is about what I'd expect to pay for a medium quality sheet of thick plywood. By medium quality I mean decent hardwood ply that doesn't have too many voids but isn't marine quality...but also isn't cheap shuttering ply. High quality 12 or 18mm Baltic birch ply is more like £50 or £60 per sheet respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may seem expensive but there is about 1.3/2 cubic feet of material in a 12/18mm sheet of ply. Common temperate hardwoods are usually around £30 to £50 per cubic foot. Speaking very generally, ply is pretty cheap once you consider all the wastage you get  with solid wood and it is &lt;em&gt;extremely&lt;/em&gt; cheap once you consider the labour and overheads of making solid wood boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are buying unseen and getting it delivered, inspect the sheets upon delivery and don't be afraid to tell them to take it back and try again if it isn't good enough. Tiny chips on the edges and corners are fairly inevitable but chunks taken out of corners or deep scratches on the faces are unacceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also timber suppliers that exclusively sell wood. This is probably where you will need to go if you want hardwoods, veneers, very high quality ply or anything exotic. They are a bit harder to deal with as a non-pro and &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; will try to fleece you if they sense you aren't sure what you are talking about by getting you to buy more than you need or by racking up the price. Try to have an idea of how much things should cost beforehand. Ply is easy since it's a standard product that comes in a standard size. If buying solid wood you want to know how many cubic feet of wood you are looking to buy and have an idea of the price per cube. They may deal exclusively in metric or imperial measurements so have both ready. On the positive side, I've found they are often surprisingly happy to take small orders and deliver them but they will charge a fair bit for delivery and it will usually come on an articulated lorry. If buying solid wood and collecting it yourself it will usually come as long, large boards that need to go on a beefy roof rack, a trailer, or a large van.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few suppliers are aimed at hobbyists and high-end cabinet makers and these will tend to sell a greater variety of species and are more set up to sell small quantities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3343" LastEditorUserId="3343" LastEditDate="2018-06-07T17:33:41.217" LastActivityDate="2018-06-07T17:33:41.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7402" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-08T16:56:20.617" Score="3" ViewCount="515" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just learned that the green stuff overlapping the wood board is a pretty positive sign that the pressure treated wood contains arsenic. We just bought a house and didn't realize until now. The CCA woods are in lots of areas. Instead of replacing all of them, is there any effective way to reduce or eliminate the toxic? Perhaps paint them? Any suggestions of what kind of paint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5240" LastEditorUserId="2463" LastEditDate="2018-06-12T17:33:21.830" LastActivityDate="2024-01-12T14:45:45.477" Title="Just realized our deck was built with CCA pressure treated wood, what shall we do to eliminate or reduce the harm?" Tags="|toxicity|pressure-treated|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7402" CreationDate="2018-06-08T20:01:33.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cbsnews.com/news/dangers-of-pressure-treated-wood/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;CBS News&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To protect against arsenic exposure, Warren recommends using oil-based semi-transparent sealant every two years. He explains they make a clear seal, but it is not recommended because it only lasts 6 months. Warren says a seal with a little color that repels ultra-violet rays is recommended. Don't use latex-based because it will blister and peal-off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Warren recommends staining the whole deck, if it is needed. But if money is an issue, he says, you should do areas that are most commonly touched such as ballisters and handrails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I understand it, so long as you don't cut or burn it, and you avoid skin contact then it shouldn't pose any great threat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes time to get rid of it you should use care and appropriate PPE - i.e. respirator mask, gloves, protective clothing such as one of those Tyvek boiler suits and contact your local government for advice on where you can dispose of it safely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2018-06-08T20:01:33.330" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7404" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7415" CreationDate="2018-06-08T22:46:50.393" Score="2" ViewCount="879" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why are doors typically designed with full length stiles instead of full width rails?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm building a two bin composter with side doors. The hinges will be on the face of the door (strap hinges) rather than the butt. With the materials at hand, I'll have less waste if I use full width rails on the doors. However, when I did some searching I found very few doors that were designed that way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5238" LastEditorUserId="5238" LastEditDate="2018-06-12T14:03:49.060" LastActivityDate="2018-06-12T14:03:49.060" Title="full length stiles versus full width rails on doors" Tags="|door|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7404" CreationDate="2018-06-09T17:02:49.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider expansion/contraction across the grain. If your stiles are flexing, then it's better to let them move independently, instead of having a rail top/bottom that isn't going to flex at the same rate. (You could design around this by pinning the outside and letting the tenon float toward the inside, but that probably makes a less substantial joint.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibly as a side issue, windows and doors were made with &quot;horns&quot; on the bottoms of stiles, which were usually nipped off just before install. This wouldn't work with full width rails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect this design has leached into our collective consciousness to become the &quot;normal&quot; or &quot;right&quot; way to build something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2018-06-09T17:02:49.867" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7407" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-09T20:37:28.850" Score="0" ViewCount="614" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I crosscut a board on a miter saw, if I follow safety rules and let the blade fully stop before raising it after cut is done, it leaves some marks on the corner of the just-cut miter where the blade enters the wood. On the picture below it's top left corner:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EUpt8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EUpt8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These marks appears no matter if I hold the board by hand or use the clamp - no difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I raise the blade immediately without releasing a trigger (i.e. rotating at full speed), which is not safe and should not be done, there is no marks left on the miter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone advise how to get rid of that marks? When I try wiggling the saw to the left or to the right, there is no movement I can feel and the blade is tightened just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just in case that matters, my miter saw is Metabo KGSV 72 Xact SYM, and the blade is CMT 64 teeth for crosscutting with thin kerf (dont remember exact article).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5232" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2018-07-19T02:23:35.717" Title="Miter saw blade leaves some of its paint on the board" Tags="|miter-saw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7408" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-09T21:53:03.280" Score="-2" ViewCount="927" Body="&lt;p&gt;A form of this question has, no doubt, been asked a 1,000 times, but I need some specific guidance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As and early Father's Day present, my wife bought me a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Veritas-Mk-II-Honing-Guide-P257.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Veritas Mk. II Honing Guide&lt;/a&gt;. Maybe this little dude is overkill (maybe not, tho), as I have never sharpened anything in my life, but I have been fooling around with chisels and not a one has been sharper than a table knife's edge. So, I'm pretty excited!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, a honing guide has to have sharpening stones, and that gets me to the root of my questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My daughters bought a Naniwa Economical Waterstone (3000 Grit) and a Naniwa Flattening Stone to go long with the Veritas. In the mean time, a friend gave me a BearMoo 3000/8000 whetstone. (Boy is there a great difference between BearMoo and Naniwa -- the latter kicks the bear's butt.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the chisels I have are mostly from the early 20th century. Some have been used by my forefathers and others by heavens only knows who. Consequently, their bevels are mostly off by several degrees and none has a micro bevel. That in mind, I'm sure a 3,000-grit waterstone isn't going to cut it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...which leaves me to wonder what stones I should buy, keeping in mind I can't break the bank on this purchase ($200)? I've been kicking around and come up with a plan, and I'd like some input on prospective/current sharpening media:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy four DMT 6&quot; Diamond Whetstones, the very course, course, fine, and extra fine. I believe these are 60, 45, 25, and 9 microns, equivalent to 220, ~300, ~400, and 1,000 grit waterstones. (I used&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/13stlsCQREmirBSZmzkCjpQ0H8HrZ07FR/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this chart&lt;/a&gt; to determine rough equivalences between different media and their grits.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use my 3,000-grit Naniwa and 8,000-grit BearMoo waterstones&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a buffalo-hide strop with green compound. (I bought this a little while back for a different reason than sharpening chisels and plane blades, but it should work, right?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like the idea of diamond whetstones because they don't need flattening, and I hear they take off metal more quickly than a waterstone would. They seem ideal for getting my chisel bevels to the correct angle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The DMT stones are on sale so I can get those for ~$120 for the group of four. If I bought them separately, they are roughly $50 per stone. However, the span of &quot;grit sizes&quot; seems awfully close together. I've not found any article that recommends going from 220 to 300 to 400 grit when sharpening chisel/plane blades, but maybe the &quot;equivalense&quot; chart is wrong about the comparison between microns and grit sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were to buy just the 220/300-grit equivalent diamond stone, should I also get the 9-micron (1000-grit) diamond stone or would a Naniwa 1,000-grit waterstone be better? It seems like I would need one or the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the 3,000-grit, 8,000-grit waterstones and leather strop are all used for honing the blade. Since I already have these in hand, they are part of the &quot;plan.&quot; I asssume I would go through the 3,000-grit waterstone when creating my primary bevel; however, do I need to use all three when finishing off my micro bevel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any insight/opinions. I'm really starting to feel overwhelmed by all the choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5243" LastActivityDate="2018-06-09T23:08:42.090" Title="Sharpening Stones for Chisels and Planes (the 1000th time)" Tags="|technique|tool-selection|sharpening|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7407" CreationDate="2018-06-09T23:07:20.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not an expert by any means, but that looks like the wood has scorched due to the friction of the saw blade. I know scorching can happen when making cross cuts if the wood and blade are not aligned properly (90 degrees from one another), if the speed at which you feed the wood is too slow (with a mitre saw, the speed at which your saw &quot;drops&quot; through the wood), or if the blade is dull and/or unclean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my miter saw, I have to check 90 degrees very carefully. Use a square, one side placed on the deck and the other against the saw blade. (This assumes your deck is level with the ground. It might be worth checking for this as well.) The drop should be absolutely smooth, i.e., you shouldn't have to &quot;muscle the blade&quot; at all to get your 90-degree cross cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While written about rip cuts, I think this piece is helpful as a starting point: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/what-makes-rip-cut-burn-65318/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;What makes a rip cut burn&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, certain types of wood are more prone to scorching than others. For example, hard maple is very prone to scorching due to the amount of sugar in the wood and the hardness of the wood. It creates the perfect storm: slower to cut through and easily &quot;caramelized&quot; by the friction of the saw blade. Cherry suffers the same plight. While it has a high sugar content, pine varieties are so soft, a good saw blade runs right through it. You shouldn't be having problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5243" LastActivityDate="2018-06-09T23:07:20.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7408" CreationDate="2018-06-09T23:08:42.090" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, the Veritas Mk. II Honing Guide is great.  I have one and use it a lot.  My edges got much better and much more consistent once I started using a guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as stone go, I'd consider a 1000 grit water stone.  I started with a 1000-4000-8000 kit and used just those three for quite a while.  A 500, or a course diamond stone would be nice for the initial bevel and flattening the backs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I had a full complement of water stones, I would use 'scary sharp' - sandpaper on a piece of glass - to handle the initial shaping of my edges.  This is an inexpensive option that some use for all their sharpening needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2018-06-09T23:08:42.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7411" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7416" CreationDate="2018-06-09T23:34:01.327" Score="3" ViewCount="3741" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making my own table saw from a circular saw. While designing the lift cradle and box surround and my ex-circular saw which will be stripped down. So it will not have the guard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My saw while made for a 235mm blades, can I put a 305mm blade when I need it? &#xA;Am I going to break my circular saw doing this?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5244" LastActivityDate="2019-01-27T01:32:29.293" Title="Using a larger blade in a table saw (circular saw)" Tags="|table-saw|circular-saw|saw-blade|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7402" CreationDate="2018-06-09T23:38:40.730" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If that isn't a ringing endorsement, I don't know what is! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would go to a good paint store (not Lowes or Home Depot) and find out the best way to seal the wood based on your climate, how much sun/water the surface gets, what the deck is use for, etc. Some typical wood sealers may not be durable when in contact with wood treated with arsenic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Treated wood can be bad stuff, esepically CCA-treated wood (aka chromated copper arsenate). No matter the treatment, until you get it sealed, I wouldn't let my kids crawl around on it or lay on it for a sun bath, for example. I'll admit I'm paranoid, but I worked as a consultant for the EPA too long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what the EPA has to say about wood treatments: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.epa.gov/ingredients-used-pesticide-products/overview-wood-preservative-chemicals&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Overview of Wood Preservative Chemicals&lt;/a&gt;. Then here's a special brochure about CCA pressure treated wood: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;url=https://www.cpsc.gov/s3fs-public/270_0.pdf&amp;amp;ved=2ahUKEwjW9e7t28fbAhVhj1QKHflQB4wQFjAEegQIAxAB&amp;amp;usg=AOvVaw1dlM4DuEZcYz7cz01et9v_&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Guidance for Outdoor Wooden Structures Decks • Playgrounds • Picnic Tables&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5243" LastActivityDate="2018-06-09T23:38:40.730" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5073" CreationDate="2018-06-09T23:51:12.317" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the same saw, same exact problem.  Just measured how parallel the shoe/base was with the blade, as per suggestions above.  1/8&quot; off from front to back!  Mystery solved.  But, no way to adjust the base to correct for this either - it is just built poorly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did find that by minimizing blade depth (so only having an inch exposed on a 3/4&quot; material cut) this problem did not happen (obviously the shorter arc length of the blade is not as far out of parallel with the base).  Anything over a couple inches thick though - the blade cuts a nice curve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, dont buy the cheap Ryobi with the plastic body and cheap base plate.  Lesson learned. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5245" LastActivityDate="2018-06-09T23:51:12.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7402" CreationDate="2018-06-11T15:25:03.193" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the immortal words of Douglas Adams:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Don't Panic&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Arsenic impregnated wood is not &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; toxic.  Obviously, you don't want to make a baby teething ring from it, and if I had to sand it, I would work outside and wear a mask.  There is also general consensus that you should not use the wood as firewood (because the ash &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; pretty toxic).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, apart from that, I wouldn't worry about it.  See &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.betterhealth.vic.gov.au/health/healthyliving/copper-chrome-arsenic-cca-treated-timber&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; from the government of Victoria in Australia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1646" LastActivityDate="2018-06-11T15:25:03.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7404" CreationDate="2018-06-11T16:35:28.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main reason for stiles traditionally being full length is because (on typical doors which open to the side) the hinges are mounted on the stiles, and the stress of opening and closing the door is concentrated where the hinges are, so the long-grain strength of the wood in that area works to your advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, that opening/closing stress would be concentrated on the hinges right near your mortise and tenon joint. The partial crosscut on the shoulders of the tenon would be in an area that has a lot of twisting stress, and cracks could develop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5190" LastActivityDate="2018-06-11T16:35:28.400" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7411" CreationDate="2018-06-11T17:49:23.520" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably will not have an issue with the arbor but there are other issues to consider. Blade tip speed - making sure that the maximum rpm rating of the blade will not be exceeded by saw designed for a smaller blade. You other issue will be the saw will be more under powered with the larger blade. The larger diameter will require more power from the motor to provide the same cutting power at the tooth. Since you are not able to increase the power you will have less power. That's why radial arm saws were often run with the next size smaller blade to give the motor a little more mechanical advantage. Also why dado blade sets are generally smaller diameter since the kerf will be wider requiring more power. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to damaging your saw, if you over stress the motor you are creating more heat than the motor is designed to remove and heat kills motors&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4817" LastActivityDate="2018-06-11T17:49:23.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7418" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7419" CreationDate="2018-06-12T10:51:51.870" Score="2" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a newbie here and have already done some research about this, no luck yet. I am trying to get rid of the stains on my hardwood floor. Two -almost exact- stains. Trying to get rid of the original stain, following some research, I applied hydrogen peroxide and ended up with light colored areas. Now I need to make them look as the rest. I tried to sand across with some sandpaper (120), wiped the sand dust and applied &quot;parquet lacquer&quot; (parkettlack here in germany) but didn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I get more aggressive on sanding, sand the surrounding area as well? Maybe I can purchase one electric hand-held sander. Should I also get into &quot;staining&quot; - the hardwood is quite fair colored and has matt lacquer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think this can be solved without needing professional help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks a lot!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uzcge.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uzcge.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5249" LastActivityDate="2018-06-12T16:48:44.920" Title="Stains on Hardwood Floor" Tags="|finishing|hardwood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7418" CreationDate="2018-06-12T16:48:44.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no one right way to deal with a problem like this and different approaches give varied results that will satisfy different people — obviously some would only be happy if the whole floor were taken down to bare wood and refinished from scratch, and really that's the only way to guarantee good consistency of colour and general appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Comments you want to extend the spot treatment to try to blend in what you've done with the surrounding boards so I think you first need to give the floor a thorough clean, this is the only way to ensure you're getting a proper read on the colour you're aiming for. It's hard to be sure from the one image but the floor probably isn't particularly clean even if swept or vacuumed regularly. At the very least the deep grain has dirt lodged in it (it nearly always does!) and as the finish is matt it's a safe bet the surface is a bit grimy (matt surfaces hold more dirt than gloss surfaces). This light covering of dirt will add a slightly grey tone that will throw off colour judgements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then if I were doing this — trying desperately not to have to refinish the whole floor :-) — I'd remove finish from a large section where the stains were originally (a dozen boards as you indicate in your Comment above sounds about right) as well as a few random boards a little distance away. Then I'd carefully refinish just those stripped boards, being as careful as possible not to get any finish on top of adjacent floorboards where original finish remains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Caveat:&lt;/strong&gt; there's no guarantee this will work well enough, but I am confident you won't be 100% happy initially! Partly this is because you can't know if you're using the same finish as was applied to the floor originally*, but also once you sand or thoroughly clean old wood it returns it to its original pale colour and it takes time and light exposure for those boards to return to the colouring they were before you started. This process will take weeks at minimum, possibly some months, depending on the light levels in the room. And only after this will you know if you've achieved a satisfactory outcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*So its colour may be different, but also how it affects the colouring of the wood may be different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-06-12T16:48:44.920" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7420" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7422" CreationDate="2018-06-13T22:20:16.190" Score="2" ViewCount="911" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about making a workbench out of CNC-cut plywood with the legs as several layers of plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about attaching the legs to the skirt (top frame to make rigid or whatever it's name is) like this (this only shows one leg, the horizontal part is the skirt, it will extend further after I mirror the leg to get the other 3 legs in the CAD):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jj2F4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jj2F4.png&quot; alt=&quot;workbench leg and skirt section&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this design I need inside square corners which the CNC cutter cannot do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is if I design it with square corners, then round the corners right before sending the files to the CNC shop to accommodate for the limitation of the cutter, will it be easy to cut the square inner corners manually afterwards with enough precision for the parts to match?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Or is it better to accommodate for round corners in the design somehow so that it all connects with round corners?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5224" LastActivityDate="2018-06-14T13:29:46.223" Title="Square corners in CNC-cut plywood" Tags="|design|plywood|cnc|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7420" CreationDate="2018-06-13T23:04:55.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's actually nothing in that drawing that a CNC router can't do... you're thinking of square internal corners of a pocket but this is not that. If you're doing a rabbet with a square-tip cutter then you absolutely can achieve what you've drawn, unless there's some part of that drawing I'm misunderstanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: If you do need to machine them in the orientation such that a rounded internal corner is produced, it should be easy to cut out the rounded part by hand as needed. I would typically try to pare it off bit by bit with a sharp chisel. You can make this easier by clamping a piece of wood or board with a straight edge such that it lies adjacent to the straight surface you want to cut, this can then act as a guide for a saw or chisel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastEditorUserId="272" LastEditDate="2018-06-14T11:37:21.930" LastActivityDate="2018-06-14T11:37:21.930" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7420" CreationDate="2018-06-14T13:29:46.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;will it be easy to cut the square inner corners manually afterwards with enough precision for the parts to match?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. This sort of trimming is a trivial job (a couple of minutes) and can be done with a purpose-made tool, the corner chisel, with a conventional chisel or using a rasp or file if necessary*. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in reality you don't have to get the inside corners here that perfect for structural reasons. Only if you remove too little material would there be a problem as the the apron piece would be held away from the vertical and horizontal joint surfaces. If they are slightly overcut (just a little too much material is removed) that won't affect joint strength in any way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have to say it, cutting flat components like this on a CNC machine seems like complete overkill to me. Squaring the corners could even be done using the right type of hand saw, which of course could be used to cut the entire notch, as well as to saw the pieces perfectly to length and dead square in the first place..... ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Another option, no hand tools&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I presume the CNC can drill holes, if so you could have it drill a small hole at the corner, do the straight cuts and then after assembly you'd be left with a portion of small, perfectly neat holes that could be left as a feature. But if you can't stand the sight of them you can of course surface fill all the holes (the void behind the fill is irrelevant, no need to worry about it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Doing it with either type of chisel the workpiece should be firmly clamped down to the bench or onto a sacrificial piece of wood. If doing it by rasp/file the workpiece should be held upright in a vice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-06-14T13:29:46.223" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7423" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7424" CreationDate="2018-06-16T12:38:52.680" Score="2" ViewCount="445" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thinking about attaching a workbench tabletop (800mm x 600mm) made out of a 40mm oak panel (or probably 2 20mm oak panels glued together if I cannot find a 40mm one) like on the image below with buttons made of 2 glued layers of 21mm plywood (the workbench legs and apron will be out of CNC-cut plywood, so making the buttons out of the same plywood makes sense)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How tight should the buttons fit into the slots? If I make 20mm slots for 21mm thick buttons will this be too tight for the buttons to move as the tabletop expands/contracts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should the slots in the apron be positioned such as to make the top of the buttons a bit lower than the under surface of the tabletop to press the tabletop tight against the aprons? How much lower?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much movement both along and across the tabletop should I expect max with this tabletop size? (to size the button slots in the apron)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wyN6c.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wyN6c.png&quot; alt=&quot;oak board, glued&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5224" LastEditorUserId="5224" LastEditDate="2018-06-16T16:54:55.870" LastActivityDate="2018-06-16T19:01:15.237" Title="Tabletop attachment apron slots buttons tightness" Tags="|wood-movement|tabletop|workbench|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7423" CreationDate="2018-06-16T19:01:15.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How tight should the buttons fit into the slots? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not critical and it should be noted that it's partly based on the length of the 'tongue' on the button and how the button is installed (your next query). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Traditionally the button is supposed to have some play, and as long as they don't easily slip out that'll do, and at the other extreme they shouldn't be a tight sliding fit (like a tenon in its corresponding mortise). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should the slots in the apron be positioned such as to make the top of the buttons a bit lower than the under surface of the tabletop to press the tabletop tight against the aprons? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes ideally although as long as they act to pull the tabletop down tight to the apron I don't think it's vital (because many people, including numerous pros, don't do it this way and don't appear to have problems). However, some older guides specifically emphasise the buttons shouldn't sit flat against the underside of the table when fitted, but should instead angle up slightly as seen in these photos:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eh2Vq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eh2Vq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Traditional-style buttons&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Remember these are all upside down, the buttons will angle up from the apron when the table is upright.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How much movement both along and across the tabletop should I expect max with this tabletop size? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There will be essentially no movement along the tabletop. Movement along the grain is so close to zero that it is nearly always ignored. Movement across the grain is always the thing to bear in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much this top will move can't be stated with confidence because it depends on unknown variables, one of the main ones being the maximum and minimum moisture content (MC) the wood will get to, which can only be guessed at. In addition the grain orientation in &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; the various pieces the top will be glued up from is important — at best most of the pieces could be quarter-sawn or rift-sawn (note: exceedingly unlikely!) so expansion during the wettest months would be towards the minimum, and at worst every piece could be flat-sawn so expansion could be the maximum possible for the species. In reality there tends to be a random distribution of grain orientations in the pieces used in factory-assembled panels like this (as seen in the sample image you posted), so the real figure will almost certainly fall between these two extremes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you can't know in advance how much movement there &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; be just allow for the most movement there &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be (this is always best practice) and then you're safe no matter how damp the conditions get and for how long, all the way to 100% humidity sustained for months during a long, hot, summer with no air conditioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So make the slots excessively long, e.g. double the width of the button, or even a bit longer, and you'll never need to worry about it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-06-16T19:01:15.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7425" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-16T19:33:20.070" Score="0" ViewCount="215" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the silver thing attached to the rip fence on this table saw? &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a6z1y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a6z1y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5260" LastEditorUserId="5260" LastEditDate="2018-06-17T00:43:39.157" LastActivityDate="2018-06-17T12:10:57.940" Title="What is attached to this rip fence?" Tags="|table-saw|fence|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5671" CreationDate="2018-06-17T01:58:31.570" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your general question &quot;What should I do?&quot;, I would submit that it's not that big of a deal, it will probably be fine, and only you will ever notice that the tenon on one end of the bench is fatter than the tenon opposite.  Since you haven't cut the tenon yet, widening the mortise seems like the easiest solution.  If you're not already planning to peg it with drawbore pins, you might want to consider that now.  The point is to hold the tenon tight in the mortise.  Drilling a hole perpendicularly to the mortise, straight through the bench leg and the tenon, then pegging it with a piece of oak dowel, should do the trick.  For an even tighter joint, offset the hole through the tenon about 1/16&quot; from the hole through the table leg; then the peg will draw it in tighter.  It's not so important to immobilize the tenon from potential left-right movement, so I would disagree with the answer that suggests you need to fill the gaps with epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make your mortises line up better next time, make sure you're marking the distances off the same face of the leg.  Rather than trying to eyeball the center of the leg or even measuring precisely where the mortise &quot;should&quot; be based on the leg's dimensions, use a marking gauge or square and mark off the distance from the reference face.  In other words if you're marking the mortise on the &quot;east&quot; and &quot;west&quot; sides of the leg, make sure both are measured from the &quot;north&quot; face rather than marking one off from the &quot;south&quot; and the other from the &quot;north&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1040" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2018-10-30T01:52:15.940" LastActivityDate="2018-10-30T01:52:15.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7428" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-17T11:15:26.483" Score="1" ViewCount="995" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to cut a hole that is wider on the bottom of the sheet than at the top. So for example using a 60mm holesaw gets me the same diameter on both sides of a 21mm thick sheet. How can I get 60mm on the one side and 70mm or so on the other side, with a flush straight angled surface between the two sides (around 45 degrees). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing some googling, I came across beveling but I cant seem to find any large enough bevel or countersink bits. The purpose will be for a spherical object to sit nearly flush on the cut section and slightly protrude on the visible top/front side of the sheet (I have attached a basic image trying to show what I am trying to accomplish). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advise appreciated but ideally using the machinery I currently have (drill, table and circular saw, jig saw and grinder). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please also forgive my lack of terminology here as I am new to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EogwT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EogwT.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5262" LastEditorUserId="5262" LastEditDate="2018-06-17T11:22:24.710" LastActivityDate="2018-06-17T12:23:34.347" Title="Bevel, Chamfering after holesaw cut" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7425" CreationDate="2018-06-17T12:10:57.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You mean the piece of extruded aluinium? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's just part of the rip fence. It can be used as-is to rip thin boards while giving good access from the right side to make feeding easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you can remove it, spin it 90 degrees clockwise and slot it back in to give you a bigger face with which to register thicker boards for ripping or wider boards for resawing. See that is has another T-track facing upwards in your photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3343" LastActivityDate="2018-06-17T12:10:57.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7428" CreationDate="2018-06-17T12:23:34.347" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure it's doable with the tools you list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For really clean and accurate results my choice would be to use a router:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make a hole template in a bit of scrap plywood by drilling a hole with your 60mm holesaw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make the 60mm hole in your workpiece. You could leave it slightly undersize (1mm or so).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use your template with a 45 degree chamfer router bit with a bottom bearing to cut the bevel. Don't try to hog it all off in one go - take small bites.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have access to a router you could use a half-round file or rasp if you have a good eye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3343" LastActivityDate="2018-06-17T12:23:34.347" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7431" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7437" CreationDate="2018-06-17T20:28:01.340" Score="1" ViewCount="906" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m trying to make some wood slices, which I want to have a smooth flat finish, and be the same thickness across the slice (to within say 0.25mm). Ideally, all the slices would be the same thickness, but if that’s not possible, that’s less critical. The slices are from oak, and are about 60-80mm diameter x ~6mm thick. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m going to run the slices through a CNC machine to v-carve them, so if the thickness of a slice isn’t consistent, the v-carving will vary in width&amp;amp;depth across the slice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I’ve cut a few slices with a mitre saw which gives quite a rough finish (it’s got corse teeth), then sanded them flat with a bench belt sander, flipped them over and tried to sand the other side flat to the same thickness. I’ve tried to keep the thickness consistent by measuring them with callipers and sanding until it’s consistent, but it’s very slow and hard to get good results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m sure I’m missing a better method. Should I be planing it? I’ve no experience with planes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve got various tools including a bench sander, but not got a planer or thicknesser. Happy to get some more tools, but can’t afford anything bulky as my workshop is low on space. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5264" LastActivityDate="2018-06-18T15:06:57.213" Title="Finishing wood slices to an even thickness" Tags="|sanding|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4367" CreationDate="2018-06-17T20:35:59.967" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you’re looking for alternatives, you might find suitable ones in the cookware sections of shops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn’t use baby oil as it’s not intended to sit on a wooden surface for a long time, so might not last as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve got a light wax with a pleasant orange scent (doesn’t taint food!) which is intended for chopping boards and wooden surfaces. I found it in the kitchenware section of a department store.&#xA;It’s called “town talk wooden surface wax”, and - if you happen to be in the U.K. - I found it in John Lewis. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve also got some “Catskills butchers block oil” which describes itself as a “pure mixture of mineral oils and vitamin E”, again intended for kitchen use and food safe. Again, came from a kitchenware shop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use them on anything which comes into contact with food or small children, though I prefer the wax, I find it easier to use and a nicer smell. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5264" LastActivityDate="2018-06-17T20:35:59.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7433" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-18T01:49:22.430" Score="6" ViewCount="1046" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Bosh GEX 125-1 AE Random Orbital Sander tends to round all my edges. I am sanding a table top and all points are now curved down, instead of straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe this is happening because the sander's pad is somewhat concave, probably to better suck out the dust, and when I pass it over an edge, the edge gets into the concave and gets its form, thus, being rounded. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am somewhat new to woodworking, so I would like to know how the experienced guys deal with this, do you avoid sanding edges with a Random Orbital Sander at all and only sand it by hand? Or is it there some sort of trick? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5265" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T11:03:41.117" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T11:03:41.117" Title="Random Orbital Sander rounds table edges" Tags="|power-tools|random-orbit-sander|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7434" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-18T02:26:27.070" Score="2" ViewCount="369" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a craftsman-style table, I'd like to shorten the stubs to refine the look of the table. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would driving one or two dowels (blue outline in image) across the tenon allow for a smaller, but equally strong, stub? I'm thinking that could increase the surface of grain that would need to fracture in order for the joint to fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I inserted them along the wedge line, it could also provide a helpful guide when carving the mortise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't seen any furniture examples of this (yet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P9V7o.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P9V7o.png&quot; alt=&quot;dowel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(tenon shape is square, 1 1/8&quot; x 1 1/8&quot;. wedge is 3/8&quot; wide).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;edit&lt;/em&gt; &#xA;Missing detail: the grain in the tenon runs horizontal (topleft-to-bottomright in the photo), perpendicular to the tusk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2018-06-19T01:08:38.817" LastActivityDate="2018-06-21T05:03:31.553" Title="Can a short tusked tenon be reinforced (with dowels)?" Tags="|design|mortise-and-tenon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7433" CreationDate="2018-06-18T10:12:57.610" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;One option would be to clamp or otherwise secure sacrificial wood to the table edges, extending the portion that would be rounded off to be outside of your desired surface. The added wood should have the top surface level with the table surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sanding pad will follow the new surface, which would not require that you approach the edge, or if you did, the rounding would be on scrap wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method works best on rectangular surfaces or those with straight edges, for obvious reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2018-06-18T10:12:57.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7434" CreationDate="2018-06-18T11:38:18.667" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can absolutely do this. I did it in one project as you can see in the  &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/projects/322513&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;project&quot;&gt;second picture of this project&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vV3v5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vV3v5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It basically does what you said - increases fracture toughness of the small stub of a tusk tenon by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;increasing glued surface area, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;adding some cross-grain strength to a short section.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2018-06-21T05:03:31.553" LastActivityDate="2018-06-21T05:03:31.553" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7431" CreationDate="2018-06-18T15:06:57.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you have a CNC router you can flatten the slices with a straight bit in the CNC. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4817" LastActivityDate="2018-06-18T15:06:57.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7388" CreationDate="2018-06-18T16:22:20.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Builders doing work on a house have huge amounts of waste, don’t seem to want to reuse stuff on the next job (I guess it’s easier to get new wood, and as their company is paying for it, there’s no saving to them). However, they do have to pay to get rid of waste.&#xA;Hence they’ll usually be very happy for you to take it off them. &#xA;We had our loft converted, and they chucked massive amounts of stuff, not just lumber but also stuff like door knobs and £100 smoke detectors. They told me it wasn’t worth saving stuff, partly because it meant storing it and knowing what they had. &#xA;Consequently I’ve got a garage full of wood!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest you look for a house building project near completion, and just ask nicely!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5264" LastActivityDate="2018-06-18T16:22:20.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7301" CreationDate="2018-06-18T18:47:50.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. A drill chuck is designed for perhaps 2000rpm, 1/10th of your spindle speed. It’s also designed only to take a compressive axis force, not longitudinal forces, or the (if you get something wrong wrong) axial forces pulling the chuck from the spindle. &#xA;Anything going wrong at 20,000rpm is extremely high energy, so it’s not worth the risks. &#xA;ER16/20 etc collets are available cheap on eBay and are intended for routers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5264" LastActivityDate="2018-06-18T18:47:50.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7440" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7441" CreationDate="2018-06-18T20:13:23.170" Score="3" ViewCount="733" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not the best mathematician, so I want to run this by real woodworkers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need a board of red oak 29 5/8&quot;W x 16'L to make a cabinet top and then stain it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what I'm thinking to make the wood look evenly distributed...&#xA;If 1x4 is really 3 1/2&quot;W then 7 * 3.5 = 24 1/2&quot;W - which is acceptable for what I am doing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I need 7 1x4x16, correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What bothers me is having to butt joint &amp;amp; glue 7 boards of expensive wood hoping it all comes out flush and level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a better way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made a typo...&quot;I need a board of red oak 29 5/8&quot;W x 16'L&quot;  should have read, &quot;I need a board of red oak 24 5/8&quot;W x 16'L&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clarification:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final length is 159 15/16&quot;, but local lumbar yard only sells 16' boards.  Hence, I plan to glue-up the 16' boards and then cut to size. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3554" LastEditorUserId="3554" LastEditDate="2018-06-20T18:42:12.370" LastActivityDate="2018-06-20T22:24:27.793" Title="How can I evenly distribute small boards of lumber to make a bigger board?" Tags="|cabinetry|board-materials|butt-joint|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7440" CreationDate="2018-06-18T20:44:24.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Edge gluing is a very popular way to get big panels without needing very wide lumber (which usually comes at a premium price). Your calculations are correct, in that you will need 7 1x4 boards to achieve a 24 1/2&quot; wide panel. You'd need 8 and some extra to get the full 29 5/8&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One option to reduce the number of glue joints you'll need is to use wider boards to start with. 1x6s and 1x8s are usually readily available at the big home centers as well as some hardwood dealers, and would reduce the number of glue joints to 3 or 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option - and probably something I'd recommend whatever you go with - is to practice on some cheaper boards. Pine is a cheap way to practice glue ups, and that will give you the confidence to proceed with oak. You can take one piece of pine and cut it to 1-2 foot lengths and do a practice glue-up with those. If you really are planning a 16 foot long tabletop (and that wasn't a typo!), you may want to do at least 1 full-length practice glue-up as that long of a joint could present some logistical challenges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastActivityDate="2018-06-18T20:44:24.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7440" CreationDate="2018-06-18T20:47:20.943" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;several ways to do this&#xA;You can glue up the boards 2 at a time making sure the boards are flush with each other. Once dry glue up two glued up boards, repeat until you have one board. However keeping the boards flush can be troublesome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Placing something in the joint that keeps the boards registered will make this easier. This is where splines, biscuits, dowels and the Festool Domino (a floating tenon system) are used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spline - (requires tablesaw or router)Either saw or route a groove in each board down each interior edge centering the groove on the edge 1/2&quot;-1&quot; deep. Cut plywood strips (thickness of plywood and width of groove should match and plywood is slightly narrower than 2 times the depth of the groove). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Biscuits (requires a biscuit joiner powertool)&#xA;Dowels (requires a drill and doweling jig or dowel centers)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dominos (requires Festool Domino machine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These all create matching holes that the filler is inserted into to reference the edges&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are all variations on a theme&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4817" LastActivityDate="2018-06-18T20:47:20.943" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7440" CreationDate="2018-06-18T20:48:17.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't quite understand how you're getting from 24 1/2&quot; to 29 5/8&quot;, but...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically when you're gluing up large, thin panels (and at 3/4&quot; thick, 1x stock would be considered thin in a piece this size) you want to have some kind of alignment aids.  These typically take two forms, external cauls or internal splines/biscuits/dowels/dominos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an external caul you'll want to get multiple sets of two boards that are longer than the width of your final piece.  Make sure one edge is as straight as possible (or slightly crowned.)  Coat one edge with packing tape or a film finish so that glue will not stick to it.  During your glue-up clamp the boards together with the panel between them every foot or so along the workpiece.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other alternative is to cut matching recesses in the edge of each board and then put something in the recesses to ensure the boards stay aligned.  You could do this with a slot cutting bit in a handheld router or with a purpose-built machine like a biscuit joiner or Festool Domino.  There are also many different types of dowel guides that you can use to make properly aligned holes with a hand drill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either of these methods will ensure the boards are all relatively flush, but I'd still expect to have to do some cleanup work.  It's also important to note that at 3/4&quot; thick over 16' the surface will need some kind of underlying support to stay flat.  Make sure whatever cabinets or legs you're mounting this to are level and sturdy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2018-06-18T20:48:17.297" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7440" CreationDate="2018-06-18T23:35:21.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing you will need for this project is a lot of bar clamps capable of spanning the width of the finish panel (29 5/8&quot;). You should plan on clamping the width of the panel at least every 24&quot; so you will need at least eight or nine clamps to spread across the 16' length.  Other answers have offered good advise in starting with smaller widths of 2 or three boards at a time and then adding them together.  It would be best to elevate the glue panels with 2x4 or 4x4 wood pieces that span the width of the panels above and below every  24&quot; along the panel length to serve as a cross grain clamp to keep all the panel pieces aligned top and bottom.  These cross clamps will require a clamp at each &#xA; side to compress the top and bottom cross grain clamps and hold the panel faces even.  If you have eight of those cross grain clamp assemblies this will require 16 more clamps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In gluing up the actual panel pieces it is not necessary to use biscuits or tenons, but doing so would reduce the need for the cross clamps. On a panel so large, the boards will may have a tendency to warp or twist over the length. Choose your boards with straight grain and make certain that your grain orientation on adjacent panel boards alternates to reduce the tendency for the composite panel to curl.  In addition a wood panel that wide will have a tendency to expand and contract seasonally.  Make certain the your cabinet will allow for such expansion.  (If you want additional advice on how to do so, consider adding another question with a sketch of actual cabinet with the top.  There are plenty of experienced woodworkers who can offer guidance on how to address expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of how careful you are in the glue up there will be the need to plane or sand the top for a uniform surface.  As an alternative you might want to consider using a cabinet grade plywood which will significant simply the cabinet assembly process and reduce expansion problems that arise with natural wood panels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2018-06-18T23:35:21.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7445" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-19T00:57:18.857" Score="3" ViewCount="701" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to cut an arc along a table's apron, like in the image below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FQBFwm.png&quot; height=&quot;200&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To scribe an arc circle for a gentle curve, e.g. 1&quot; in height at the apogee and spanning a 48&quot;-long apron, one would need to scribe an arc on a circle with a radius of 24 feet. This quickly becomes impractical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QYzkBm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QYzkBm.png&quot; alt=&quot;protractor&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?216441-How-do-I-cut-an-arch-into-a-table-apron&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;from sawmillcreek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The forum where that image is from suggests a few things, like bending sticks, but maybe there are other easier solutions)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastActivityDate="2019-02-20T03:11:12.017" Title="What are some tricks to draw long arcs along a table apron" Tags="|furniture|design|drawing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7445" CreationDate="2018-06-19T00:57:18.857" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've collected a few solutions online, and a website to help with some of the steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pin a bent stick (or &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lath&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;lath&lt;/a&gt;) on three points (e.g. center and extremities), and draw its outline. It might not be perfectly circular, but you'll be able to adjust the curve. For best results, you would have to select the stick/lath carefully for straight grain and no knots. You could also try bending a drywall T-Square on its side, depending on the length and curvature of the arc needed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Print the curve on tiled printer paper, transfer the pattern to cardboard or thin rigid stock to make a stencil, and then use the stencil to scribe the line. There is a website called &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.blocklayer.com/arceng.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;arceng&lt;/a&gt; which can generate various types of (printable) curves.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pin one end of a string or of a rigid board in the center of the circle. Tie a pencil or a marker to the other end, make sure the string is taut (pulled tight), and revolve around the center pin to draw the arc. That won't work for large radii, naturally.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Calculate the location of a discrete set of points along the curve to make a spline, and link them with short smooth segments. Again &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.blocklayer.com/arceng.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;arceng&lt;/a&gt; can provide those points for simple curve functions, namely circular arcs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there are more generic procedures and tools to draw arbitrarily shaped outlines (e.g. the outline of a carved Queen Anne headboard), but I don't know them. If you have a plan for an existing curve design at a different scale, you would probably just enlarge it on paper and transfer it to a rigid stencil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you intend to draw a lot of curves, a tool called a &quot;ship curve&quot; or &quot;blending curve&quot; might turn handy, but they can be pricy. A plastic ruler on its side might offer a good-enough substitute, in a pinch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xPVNc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xPVNc.png&quot; alt=&quot;LV blending curve&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=51161&amp;amp;cat=1,42936,42958&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;LV Blending Curve&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2018-06-19T21:58:37.333" LastActivityDate="2018-06-19T21:58:37.333" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2267" CreationDate="2018-06-19T20:51:27.627" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Live centres are driven under power so if it's in the chuck or headstock it's a live centre, a dead centre isn't powered so a centre in the tailstock would be considered a dead centre of its a bearing centre or a solid centre it doesn't matter, bearing centres are never really live centres because they wouldn't be able to drive &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5268" LastActivityDate="2018-06-19T20:51:27.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7449" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-20T15:41:57.747" Score="-5" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good day!&#xA;A new batch of boards came from the sawmill, but they were in defective. It is necessary to straighten. In general, this situation is very often happening at my work. I used the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bestadvisor.com/hand-planers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dewalt electric hand planer&lt;/a&gt; but the last batch (you can see for image) is very large. I need a tool bigger and more powerful, maybe not a hand planer. What do you advise? I think I can ask my superiors about 300 bucks for the right purchase. Thank you!&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RaI56.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RaI56.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5272" LastActivityDate="2018-06-20T18:30:11.513" Title="What is the best tool for leveling boards?" Tags="|hand-tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2018-06-21T14:34:50.610" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7440" CreationDate="2018-06-20T16:15:09.577" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with what was said previously, this is a big project.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought I would mention another way of aligning/combining the individual pieces.  You can give the boards tongue and groove edges with a combination plane or an wooden T &amp;amp; G set, or even a router.  That would give you a continuous system of aligning these boards and increase the glue surface.  Good luck with the project, I'd like to hear how it goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5274" LastEditorUserId="5274" LastEditDate="2018-06-20T22:24:27.793" LastActivityDate="2018-06-20T22:24:27.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7449" CreationDate="2018-06-20T18:30:11.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;you basically need two tools to do this, a jointer and planer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the jointer makes on face flat. The planer makes the second face parallel to the first. you can find each for ~ 300 USD, but not both (even used).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2018-06-20T18:30:11.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7452" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7453" CreationDate="2018-06-20T20:30:03.387" Score="2" ViewCount="502" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a built-in desk for my home office.  I plan to use 3/4&quot; plywood over a 2x4 frame and attach the frame to the studs.  I understand that the table top needs to be allowed to expand/contract so I'm planning to attach the plywood to the 2x4 frame using cleats or similar hardware for this purpose.  The desk will be from wall to wall (~8').  Do I need to leave a gap between the plywood top and the walls to allow for expansion and contraction?  If so, how much would you recommend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5276" LastActivityDate="2018-06-20T20:52:17.140" Title="Built-in plywood desk and wood movement" Tags="|plywood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7452" CreationDate="2018-06-20T20:52:17.140" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The plywood will not expand or contract a noticeable amount. You will not need to use special hardware to accommodate for movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4817" LastActivityDate="2018-06-20T20:52:17.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7454" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-22T06:51:30.137" Score="1" ViewCount="343" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a piece of 2x8 redwood, and need to make a threshold for the following inswing door configuration:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LWst4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LWst4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;door threshold&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The door is exterior inswing with no overhang at all (Mediterranean style home).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have access to a large table saw, planer, hand planer, routing table, hand router, bandsaw and other woodworking tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a capable novice.  What sequence of cuts would you suggest? I'm considering two profiles, optimized for shedding water:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9cwf3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9cwf3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've prototyped one, but the undercut at the concrete edge was hard, and I never figured out a reliable sequence of cuts to ensure the top of the threshold remained flat:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DqJMF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DqJMF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1253" LastActivityDate="2018-06-22T06:51:30.137" Title="How can I cut a custom height wooden door threshold? Table saw &amp; planer" Tags="|table-saw|door|planning|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7455" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7460" CreationDate="2018-06-22T18:32:02.893" Score="1" ViewCount="907" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm finishing a small side table using this water-based &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001XQ20WG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wipe-on poly&lt;/a&gt;, and wasn't sure how to go about &quot;rubbing out&quot; the end product. I was planning on following this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O9LOtYFMb-A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt;. Basically, sand with a fine grit sandpaper, go over it with #0000 steel wool, and then go over it again with the steel wool, but with soapy water as a lubricant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the finish I'm using is water based, is using steel wool in this process okay? I know that steel wool isn't supposed to be used before the finish or in between coats, but I wasn't sure about using it after the finish is applied. If it's not ok, what are some alternatives? I've seen synthetic steel wool, but the ones available at the local big box stores seem to be of not very good quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5281" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2018-06-24T13:24:09.857" LastActivityDate="2018-06-25T13:27:09.920" Title="Can I rub out out water-based wipe-on poly with steel wool?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7455" CreationDate="2018-06-22T18:50:07.027" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once the finish has cured it cannot be &quot;reactivated&quot; by water.  You can safely wet sand your work after a few hours.  (I'd probably wait overnight, though.  Any tackiness or &quot;rolls&quot; when sanding mean it's not fully cured).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finishes like poly do not just &quot;dry&quot;, they also &quot;cure&quot; after the solvent has evaporated.  That means that there is a reaction in the film that bonds it into a solid layer that cannot be removed with more of the same solvent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only exception to this is shellac (and some lacquers).  It can be reactivated even years later with more alcohol.  This is why the layers &quot;burn in&quot; to each other, preventing witness marks that you'll if you happen to sand through the top layer of poly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2018-06-22T18:50:07.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3586" CreationDate="2018-06-23T07:01:34.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just solved this very problem. Existing 22mm holes and needed 30mm. Went to my wood supplier and got a short length of 22mm dowel. Cut off short lengths to suit depth of existing holes. Glued around the rim at the top of the hole and hammered the short dowel lengths in flush to work surface. When dried, re-cut holes to new 30 mm dimension.&#xA;Mike&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5282" LastActivityDate="2018-06-23T07:01:34.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7458" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7459" CreationDate="2018-06-23T14:42:32.180" Score="2" ViewCount="577" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a live edge bench in memory of a loved one, and would like it to last as long as possible while weathering the elements year round.  I live in Pittsburgh, PA, which means we get occasional sunny summer days in excess of 90 degrees, but of more concern are occasional sub-zero (C) temperatures and lots of snow and ice in the winter.  I'm also concerned about bugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bench will be made from several bookmatched slabs of live-edge Cherry at approximately 1.5&quot; thick.  That includes the bench, seatback, and side/legs. &#xA; Hidden lateral supports will be made from pressure treated 2x4 lumber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I planned to do nothing to the pressure treated 2x4s.  I planned to cut and sand the live edge slabs, then have the dedication laser-engraved.  Then apply 7-10 coats of UV-resistant outdoor poly-urethane.  Then anchor together using outdoor deck screws with a dab of 100% silicone over the screw holes (they will be hidden).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other measures should be taken to keep this piece protected from the elements?  Is there any sort of chemical that should be applied and allowed to seep into the wood?  Keep in mind that any treatment to the visible decorative areas must not negatively impact the appearance of the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2018-06-24T13:18:25.383" Title="What should be done to treat decorative wood for outdoor use?" Tags="|furniture|pressure-treated|outdoor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7458" CreationDate="2018-06-24T13:18:25.383" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cherry is not a durable species* as I presume you know, so a protective finish becomes a must to ensure a long life if using it outdoors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you obviously don't have a problem with a fully varnished appearance that's good as this is the finishing option that will give you the best outdoor durability in an unpigmented finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you should use a better varnish than I think you are currently planning on using. Varnishes intended for marine application are &lt;em&gt;significantly&lt;/em&gt; better than spar varnishes sold to normal consumers, and other exterior varnishes sold to homeowners for use on the exterior of doors etc. can fare even worse under direct sun and with weather exposure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's Bob Flexner on the subject on Popular Woodworking, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/flexner-on-finishing-blog/the-best-kind-of-clear-finish-to-use-outdoors-the-difference-between-varnish-and-spar-varnish&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Best Kind of Clear Finish to use Outdoors&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What other measures should be taken to keep this piece protected from the elements? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you have it covered in essence. Just bear in mind is that the varnish, like every finish, needs maintenance as mentioned in the link above. For a quality marine varnish this means sanding down and applying a fresh coat periodically. Hard to say how frequently this will be needed for Pittsburgh, maybe every 4-5 years, but don't trust those numbers — you have to be directed by how the finish actually endures and not try to follow a timescale decided on in the abstract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there any sort of chemical that should be applied and allowed to seep into the wood? Keep in mind that any treatment to the visible decorative areas must not negatively impact the appearance of the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are both commercial and DIY wood preservatives that might be used but I don't think you should worry about this. When varnishing the protective coat has to have failed, allowing water direct contact with the wood, for this to matter. And at that point you're already well past the time the piece should have had some upkeep. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If water does get to the wood you're looking at a complete stripping and revarnish, so it's vital to work towards this not being necessary by keeping up with maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fasteners&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If possible use stainless screws. Coated (and now multi-coated) screws are supposed to be highly resistant to rusting but once their finish is breached, as can happen with a single slip of the screwdriver across the head of the screw during installation, it can expose steel to the elements and rusting can begin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Low rot-resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-06-24T13:18:25.383" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7455" CreationDate="2018-06-25T13:27:09.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Since the finish I'm using is water based, is using steel wool in this process okay? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not ideal but you can use it if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I would recommend not using it lubricated with soapy water as the potential for rusting is &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; high — I've put pads down I was using to clean glass and just a few minutes later have come back to them to find the pad sitting in a small puddle of rusty water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If it's not ok, what are some alternatives? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An incomplete list includes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;finer abrasive papers/films or sponge-backed abrasives&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bronze wool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stainless steel wool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;powdered pumice and/or rottenstone powder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;non-woven nylon abrasives AKA synthetic steel wool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;automotive scratch removers, rubbing compounds and polishes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This shouldn't be read as a list of alternatives only as various combinations can be used in sequence, e.g. abrasive papers up to a high grit number, then rottenstone lubricated with a light oil, finally using a fine automotive polish or swirl remover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've seen synthetic steel wool, but the ones available at the local big box stores seem to be of not very good quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is wise to avoid this if the quality is suspect, because the abrasive grains tend not to be graded well in cheap stuff. This can lead to scratches just like you get if an abrasive paper is contaminated by a speck of grit from a coarser grade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; do be sure to wait sufficient time before starting to ensure best results. While the short drying time of waterbased finishes seems to indicate a very fast cure time it's still generally necessary to wait at least 48 hours, sometimes as much as a week, for the finish to harden completely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-06-25T13:27:09.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7461" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-25T16:34:55.867" Score="2" ViewCount="120" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in other questions I've posted, I'm building a memorial bench for my mother, who recently passed away.  I would like to have some poetic stanzas inscribed on the seatback on either side, and &quot;In memory of...&quot; inscribed across the center of the seatback near the top.  I feel that laser engraving is the best method for doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've checked in with every place I can find in my greater metro area, but all are limited to a 24&quot; x 24&quot; area.  One offered to slide each side of the slab in to do the engraving on the sides.  However, there is no practical way to engrave anything in the middle of the slab.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I thought a solution may be found in cutting out a rectangular portion of the seat back, having it engraved, and then reattaching it and using wood fill or something similar to mask the cut marks.  I've used wood fill before, and feel like even if I get the color right the straight line from the fill will cause a very visible blemish.  Are there any other methods of cutting and then reattaching a piece of a slab that create a seamless result?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will attach an engraved metal plate, or laser engraved slice of wood, if necessary.  However, I feel like this works against the creative flow of the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2018-06-25T20:57:43.433" Title="Is there a practical way to cut off a piece of a live edge slab, and then seamlessly rejoin it?" Tags="|joinery|wood-repair|filler|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7462" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7467" CreationDate="2018-06-25T17:39:39.970" Score="3" ViewCount="13693" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've worked with a few live edge slabs in the past, but the one I have now is the first one with a sizable crack.  I don't like the look of butterfly keys, and I don't believe that this crack needs much reinforcement, but I was going to fill it with West epoxy just in case (and as a way to finally try using it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing that has surprised me in the videos I've seen is that all of them use a very dark tint, many going with straight black.  It creates a very striking aesthetic effect, but I don't think I want to pull the visual focus away from the wood like that.  I was considering using the epoxy without a tint so that the reinforcement is relatively invisible, and went with the 207 hardener for this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I have not been able to find a single example of clear epoxy being used.  I've done some googling but in addition to not seeing any examples, I also cannot find any discussion of why tinting is so common.  Since it is done so rarely I assume there must be a reason, and don't want to ruin my slab due to my inexperience, so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is clear epoxy not used?  What considerations should go into a decision about whether, and how, to tint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2021-02-26T23:34:40.483" Title="Why is clear epoxy not often used to fill cracks in live edge slabs?" Tags="|joinery|wood-repair|epoxy|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7462" CreationDate="2018-06-25T17:55:03.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The choice is entirely aesthetic. I have only ever used clear epoxy to fill cracks because i think that looks best. Sometimes a striking effect is achieved with other fillers too, eg. turquoise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2018-06-25T17:55:03.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7461" CreationDate="2018-06-25T18:27:00.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may want to consider contacting the &lt;a href=&quot;https://darklylabs.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Darkly Labs&lt;/a&gt; people. Their Kickstarter project for the Emblaser v1 created a laser engraver and low power cutting machine that uses a flat piece of metal for the base. They may be able to give your contact information to an E1 owner in your area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A number of Emblaser v1 owners have made this portion removable, allowing the laser to be positioned anywhere on a flat surface to engrave up to the maximum size of the device. I have an A3 (approx. 11&quot; x 17&quot;) Emblaser v1 to which I've modified the base to be a piece of honeycomb aluminum, to increase stiffness. It is still removable and would work in your example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There may be other laser engraver devices on the market (diode lasers, not CO2) that would operate or be modified to operate in a similar manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Less realistic is to consider to have a slice shaved from the surface you wish engraved. It would be possible to use a laser to cut out the section to be engraved if the slice was thin enough, then after the engraving is completed, the segment would be re-inserted in a manner similar to an inlay and the removed slice would be re-attached to the back. You'll lose kerf width when the back is sliced, but it's going to be in a less obtrusive location. The inlay could be done in an artistic manner, reducing the impact of the laser kerf as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2018-06-25T18:27:00.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7461" CreationDate="2018-06-25T20:57:43.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typical laser engraving places don't have the right equipment for this, but larger custom fabricators with large CNCs will often have a laser head that could do this. That said, it would be fairly expensive. You may prefer to buy a &lt;a href=&quot;https://shapertools.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shaper Origin&lt;/a&gt; (like a router with autopilot or autocorrect) and engrave it using a v-bit instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BD8Q7X1mDKo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eUO78.png&quot; alt=&quot;CNC live edge slab project&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastActivityDate="2018-06-25T20:57:43.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7462" CreationDate="2018-06-25T21:26:52.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used clear epoxy and tinted, it just depends on the project. Clear is generally harder to get right. If you have contaminants they will show or cloud the final product. For me, tinting is either with black or very dark brown, no matter the wood color. I do that so that it does not look like I was trying to match the wood, which would be really tough with epoxy. Plus, if the piece of wood you're working with is pretty enough it really wont pull you away from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would disagree with aaron in that the choice is &lt;em&gt;entirely&lt;/em&gt; aesthetic, cost plays a role too. I recently did a piece of live edge cedar for a window sill that had several knots that needed filled. I used West Systems 404 &amp;amp; 206 and since the knots were large I decided to add in some West Systems High-Density Filler (40415) to add some more bulk to the filling. This helps with run-out, even though the backside was taped well, and I can get away with using less epoxy (expensive stuff). In this application I went clear and learned a valuable lesson. If you choose to use filler, always tint or by happy with a white/cloudy appearance.  I've not coated these spots yet with anything but I don't expect them to 'clear up' once I do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wk4Wa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wk4Wa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5290" LastActivityDate="2018-06-25T21:26:52.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7462" CreationDate="2018-06-25T21:36:39.277" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why is clear epoxy not used? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two related reasons I can think of plus a third unrelated. The first is just because people don't want to make their fills transparent (or to put it another way, they really like coloured fills), at a guess this would account for most of it. The related reason is that maybe some users know getting the fill completely bubble-free can be tricky* so they're afraid to try. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third is that some users will have enough knowledge of epoxy to know it discolours (badly) with UV exposure, so a clear epoxy fill will eventually look just plain awful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to fill with a clear resin then look into one of the clear casting resins that markets itself as having good UV resistance. These will be invariably a polyurethane I think. But two points to note, 1) these can be very moisture-sensitive, so you may have to ensure your wood is particularly well dried or apply a barrier of some sort before the fill is poured, and 2) a warning: some sticker shock may ensue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;in the videos I've seen is that all of them use a very dark tint, many going with straight black. It creates a very striking aesthetic effect, but I don't think I want to pull the visual focus away from the wood like that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well you can colour a resin fill any colour you like, literally any colour. From a tinted clear or 'candy' effect to solid colours to filled with powdered wood, metal or minerals, the choice is endless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you fill the resin with fine sanding dust from the wood you're using the colouring will be similar but darker, somewhat like end grain after the finish goes on, which can tone in fairly well since it's not &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; dark. But if you'd like it closer in shade you need to either lighten the mixture somehow (add in a little white/cream/ivory paint or partially fill using a light-coloured/white filler material) or, mix it using the dust from a different piece of wood, possibly from a different species entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Obviously if you have bubbles trapped in a typical solid-colour fill (and there usually are) you can't see them, although some can be exposed when the fill is being made flush with the surrounding surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-06-25T21:36:39.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7468" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-25T22:16:02.723" Score="2" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there one excellent-quality handsaw that does both crosscuts and rip cuts, and, if not, what two handsaws should I buy?  The task is to install either an engineered wood, or possibly hardwood, floor in a small (165 sq ft) room.  Speed is not important but neat, precision cuts is. I am a highly-motivated novice.  If hand-tools are totally inadequate for the job, what is the minimum set of power-tools?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5291" LastActivityDate="2018-06-26T03:47:36.237" Title="Handsaws for very small flooring project" Tags="|hand-tools|power-tools|traditional-techniques|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7468" CreationDate="2018-06-26T03:47:36.237" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Japanese-style double-edged pull saw would be perfect. One side is for rip cuts; the other is for cross-cuts. As a bonus, they're flexible enough to also cut your door jambs flush with the new flooring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xLqor.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xLqor.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Japanese-style double-edged pull saw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3830" LastActivityDate="2018-06-26T03:47:36.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7470" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-26T08:39:56.170" Score="1" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've built the wall divider with plywood sheet, 78&quot; (2m) height and 59&quot; (1.5m) width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any formula for calculating the proper length of the base for maximum stability? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PfXQ8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PfXQ8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2913" LastActivityDate="2018-06-26T08:39:56.170" Title="Optimum base length for wall divider" Tags="|plywood|measurement|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7471" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7472" CreationDate="2018-06-26T13:52:35.977" Score="2" ViewCount="174" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a memorial bench out of live edge slabs.  I liked the idea of the 'legs' matching the form and style of the seat and seatback slabs, so I decided to cut them out of my scrap slabs.  Either side of the seat slab will be corner notched, and the notches will rest in the side pieces.  The seatback will have a notch cut for the armrest and will be screwed to the side pieces.  The seat and back will not extend more than an inch past the side pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This outline shows my initial design for the side pieces.  As the pencil marks are difficult to see I've created a second photo where I messily highlighted the cut lines in purple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZBtEP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZBtEP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Side piece cuts&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JzCWo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JzCWo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Side piece cuts highlighted&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any potential structural, construction, or even aesthetic issues with this design?  I am aware that in a perfect world the wood grain should run at an angle down the legs to maximize strength, but given than I'm cutting this out of a single slab that's not possible.  The legs are just under 2&quot; at their thinnest point, which I believe should be sufficient to hold the bench and users?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This slab is approximately 1.5&quot; thick, kiln-dried Cherry (approximately 7% moisture content).  I am attempting to utilize as much of the natural edge as possible so the edges will not be cut straight; bark will be removed completely and the edges lightly sanded.  Epoxy will be used to fill the cracks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The armrest will be heavily sanded on each side to provided rounded edges for comfort, and is approximately 1&quot;.  The seatback posts are sloped back at a 5 degree angle and approximately 2&quot; at their thinnest point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The underside of the seat will have two pressure treated 2x4s running the length and attached to the side pieces.  An additional scrap piece of slab (approximately 1.5&quot; x 3&quot;) will be run at the lowest center point to provide additional lateral stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2018-06-26T14:30:27.717" Title="What are the potential issues with this bench design?" Tags="|design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7471" CreationDate="2018-06-26T14:16:50.613" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The armrest section is quite thin and also the grain is oriented at 90° to what you'd normally expect for an armrest. I would expect this to split with time due to expansion/contraction (and in fact you already have a split in the timber here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you have here with the large slab end is typically known as a &quot;pew&quot; like you might have in a church. If you do a google image search for &quot;wooden pew&quot; you will see that they pretty much never have this hole cutout under the armrest portion or if they do, they leave a much thicker section above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a0vVL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a0vVL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hDaPz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hDaPz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YOIMF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YOIMF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, the last one there does have a cutout but it's left a few inches of material above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something else you might be able to do is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f5snb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f5snb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i.e. adding an extra piece of timber on top of the armrest with the grain going the &quot;correct&quot; way. I realise there are no cutouts in this picture but there could be. I'd still probably want to leave at least 2&quot; of thickness to the main slab part of the armrest though to avoid splitting, personally. You may get away with less but it depends on how dry the timber is, what kind of fluctuations in temp/humidity it might be subjected to etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that I can't see any obvious problems with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastEditorUserId="272" LastEditDate="2018-06-26T14:30:27.717" LastActivityDate="2018-06-26T14:30:27.717" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7473" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-27T15:44:18.670" Score="1" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, I'm fully aware that, this is a very simple question. but I can't find the solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to make the foldable leg for a table like this : &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aMx6i.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aMx6i.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;so I cut top and bottom of each leg 10 degrees. and installed the hinges  :&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kLveO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kLveO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;The problem is &quot;pin part&quot; when it folds &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q5Yw0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q5Yw0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, so I cant attach the leg surface to the table top sheet. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DrglV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DrglV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT :&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/7474/2913&quot;&gt;Fred_dot_u&lt;/a&gt; answer : &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought the hinge that you've mentioned from the local store, The point is that hinge does not fold in the direction that I want or I'm installing that in the wrong way? &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BHttt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BHttt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ohqIk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ohqIk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2913" LastEditorUserId="2913" LastEditDate="2018-06-28T10:14:12.710" LastActivityDate="2018-06-28T10:14:12.710" Title="Hinge pin problem in installation" Tags="|hinges|installation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7473" CreationDate="2018-06-27T18:27:09.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are seeking what is called a flush two-pin hinge:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B004MDY00W&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/Whitecap-Flush-Mount-2-Pin-Hinge/dp/B004MDY00W&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/npExA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/npExA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;flush two pin hinge&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image shows one of many options and of many designs. Some are engineered to mount on a surface, but even that isn't a requirement. Some &quot;ordinary&quot; hinges will have flush pin configuration without having two pins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The design in the image may require careful spacing in order to accomplish a flat surface and the legs may not necessarily be in contact. I don't think that's an issue in your design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2018-06-27T18:27:09.677" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7476" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-27T22:48:04.227" Score="3" ViewCount="4903" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m about to finish my first woodworking project, it’s a tv stand made from 2x4s. I’ve been doing some research on finishing but can’t find an exact answer. I’ve seen that a wood conditioner should be used first to get a consistent blotch free stain finish. Should I then use a Danish oil on top of the stain? So it will be conditioner, stain, oil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5298" LastActivityDate="2019-08-25T10:49:38.020" Title="Wood conditioner then stain then oil?" Tags="|finishing|staining|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7477" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-28T13:58:03.607" Score="1" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our place has a cutting board built into the countertop by the stove. We've been using it as a cutting board, but someone pointed out to me that I need to make sure it's unfinished (for safety) and that it requires proper maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I tell if it's safe to use for food? It looks like a normal cutting board to me, but I'm not experienced in the matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking up maintenance, sources said it depends on the kind of wood. Comparing to pictures it appears it could be maple (which is also common), but again, I am inexperienced in this regard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qK2IB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qK2IB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DXfWO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DXfWO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5301" LastActivityDate="2019-11-24T22:02:15.323" Title="Identification and maintenance of cutting board counter" Tags="|wood|cutting-board|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7476" CreationDate="2018-06-28T14:03:34.253" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I’ve seen that a wood conditioner should be used first to get a consistent blotch free stain finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clarify something first, what is sold as wood conditioner is actually a dilute finish. That or finish you diluted yourself for the same purpose will &lt;em&gt;reduce&lt;/em&gt; blotching but it rarely gives a truly blotch-free result. This is especially the case with pine and similar softwoods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So it will be conditioner, stain, oil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, if those are the finishing products you're using that is the order in which you apply them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note you have to choose a stain type that is compatible with an oil finish. Another option would be to use a coloured &quot;Danish oil&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you want to completely avoid blotching use &quot;gel stain&quot; instead, which is coloured varnish artificially thickened to the consistency of soft jelly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-08-25T10:49:38.020" LastActivityDate="2019-08-25T10:49:38.020" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7479" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-29T01:56:16.123" Score="1" ViewCount="61" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made this sign by gluing numbers made of birch bark to another piece of bark:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/elaDR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/elaDR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is for outdoor use where it freezes hard. The numbers are about 1/8 of an inch thick, and water will collect in the recesses and freeze and thaw until the sign is destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to protect it from the elements by coating it with many layers of spar urethane, until the layers flow around the numbers until smooth, but after about 10 coats, it's not happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I could use epoxy resin, but that would give it a glass block finish that doesn't really go with this kind of rustic look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should I coat the sign to accomplish my goal? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4640" LastActivityDate="2018-06-29T09:45:02.180" Title="How can I finish this to protect it from the elements?" Tags="|finishing|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7479" CreationDate="2018-06-29T09:45:02.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Making wooden products for outdoor use is about more than just the finish, it's about the design. Everything you make needs to avoid water sitting on flat surfaces and/or being sucked into small gaps and cracks by capillary action. I design conservatories / garden rooms etc. and any horizontal face which may have water land on it has a 9 degree or greater angle on to encourage water run-off, to achieve the highest durability (we aim for 5 years before needing a re-paint).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, something like Yacht Varnish should protect against this - the main issue is that these kinds of varnishes need to be re-applied at least once a year. Ultimately, if you've adequately sealed all of the gaps and nooks and crannies, you might well be alright. 10 coats of urethane sounds to me like it will be enough but I don't personally know what the performance of urethane is like in regards to heat, cold and UV light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can, I would suggest mounting the sign with the main visible face slightly angled downwards from the vertical plane, as this will help to stop water sitting in the cracks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2018-06-29T09:45:02.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7482" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-29T19:05:48.087" Score="4" ViewCount="773" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a piece of sculptural wall art out of pieces of wooden dowel rod, joined together with epoxy glue. It looks similar to these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.pinimg.com/originals/81/73/90/817390b09427dd506932245c074d59c6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Example 1&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0us8cs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0us8cs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;example1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.krazyglue.com/images/default-source/Project-Detail-Images/kg-projects_dowelmonogram.jpg?sfvrsn=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Example 2&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C2i09s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C2i09s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;example2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though I tried to keep the bottoms of the dowel rods (which would be against the wall) even with each other, they are sitting at different heights in the back meaning the piece won't hang flat against the wall. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What sort of machine or tool would I use to cut them all down flat to be even with each other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5306" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2018-10-18T19:24:17.890" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T10:32:50.577" Title="What tool can I use to cut/plane a lot of dowel rods?" Tags="|wood|cutting|dowel|epoxy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7445" CreationDate="2018-06-29T19:18:46.870" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodgears.ca/shop-tricks/large_arc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a neat method&lt;/a&gt; I found on woodgears.ca:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let &lt;strong&gt;A&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;B&lt;/strong&gt; be the endpoints of your circular arc, and let &lt;strong&gt;M&lt;/strong&gt; be the midpoint between &lt;strong&gt;A&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;B&lt;/strong&gt;. If &lt;strong&gt;P&lt;/strong&gt; is the highest point on your arc (the apogee), then let &lt;strong&gt;h&lt;/strong&gt; be the distance from &lt;strong&gt;M&lt;/strong&gt; to &lt;strong&gt;P&lt;/strong&gt;. Finally, let &lt;strong&gt;L&lt;/strong&gt; be the distance between &lt;strong&gt;A&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;B&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IbChT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IbChT.png&quot; alt=&quot;layout&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: Considering the triangle formed by the center point, point M, and point A (or B), you have, from the Pythagorean theorem, that r&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; = (L/2)&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; + (r-h)&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. Solving for r, you get r = (L&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; + 4h&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;)/(8h), which could be too large for a typical drawing method (long string with a pencil, or a beam compass).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than working with a super long radius, you can use a fact of geometry: the inscribed angle formed between two points of a circle (&lt;strong&gt;A&lt;/strong&gt;, and, &lt;strong&gt;B&lt;/strong&gt;) and any other point along the perimeter, is constant. Set two nails at points &lt;strong&gt;A&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;B&lt;/strong&gt;, and get two straight sticks, each a bit longer than &lt;strong&gt;L&lt;/strong&gt;, butted against each other at an angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use the following image as a guide. Rest the sticks (depicted by the pairs of colorful lines) on the arc-side of the work piece, so each stick touches a nail, and cross the inside edge of the sticks at point &lt;strong&gt;P&lt;/strong&gt;. At that point, the yellow lines are your sticks, the bright green point at their intersection is where you hold the pencil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, holding a pencil at the intersection of the sticks, and keeping the angle the same between the sticks, slide the connected sticks left and right until the pencil has reached both nails. For instance, to draw the right half of the arc, you would move from the yellow position, to the orange position, then the dark orange, etc., until you reach &lt;strong&gt;B&lt;/strong&gt;. You will have drawn a circular arc between &lt;strong&gt;A&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;B&lt;/strong&gt; with required height &lt;strong&gt;h&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LFGsL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LFGsL.png&quot; alt=&quot;moving angle along&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will work as long as the angle between the two sticks is kept constant (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inscribed_angle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;theory here&lt;/a&gt;). You would record the angle at point &lt;strong&gt;P&lt;/strong&gt; (because you can precisely calculate that point's  position), and then if you keep the same angle when sliding, you will &quot;reveal&quot; your other arc points. You could glue the sticks at the angle you want, or use a protractor to ensure the angle is kept constant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5304" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2019-02-19T19:18:51.813" LastActivityDate="2019-02-19T19:18:51.813" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7484" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7485" CreationDate="2018-06-30T19:08:34.960" Score="4" ViewCount="854" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a hand plane from my grandfather's old tools, though it sat in a garage for several years with no care. It's quite rusted, and it looks like it may be rather heavily pitted on one side of the sole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The back handle says &quot;Defiance by Stanley&quot;, and the sole measures 14&quot; long. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it likely to be salvageable? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3NrsH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3NrsH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7mKtF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7mKtF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UmjRW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UmjRW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastActivityDate="2018-06-30T23:49:37.163" Title="Is this plane salvageable?" Tags="|hand-tools|tool-repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7484" CreationDate="2018-06-30T23:49:37.163" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes this should be salvageable, and actually quite easily&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those heavy patches of rust might look dreadful if you're not used to rusty old tools but planes far rustier than this — completely caked in rust from toe to heel — are regularly turned back into good users. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were well practised in restoring planes you could probably put this back to work in literally half an hour, but for a more comprehensive restoration (including steps done purely for cosmetic reasons) you'd be looking at a few hours of work spread over a number of days. Here's just one example showing before and after, to illustrate the kind of impressive transformation that's possible if you put more work into a restoration:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X4X4I.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X4X4I.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Stanley No. 5 before and after restoration&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodworkingchat.com/forum/tools-and-safety/hand-tools/6402-hand-plane-restorations-before-and-after&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Woodworking Chat&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;After the rust is gone&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Once rust gets as heavy as it appears to be in areas on the body of your Defiance it's likely that after removal some pitting will remain, and in some patches the pits may be deep. But don't worry too much about that. While pitting is unsightly most doesn't impact function, and on the body casting pitting can even be severe and still not affect use in any way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where pitting is most definitely an issue is on the irons but I think you're in luck because it appears not much rust is going on up top, making pitting on those unlikely&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;Each plane is its own challenge though, there are no guarantees. While there's always a chance you'll find a seized screw they're relatively rare and other than the patches of heavy rust on the body casting your Defiance seems to have escaped neglect relatively unscathed with only powdery surface rust elsewhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;And if you do find pitting on the cutter and cap iron/chipbreaker it can usually be dealt with, just takes a bit more time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-06-30T23:49:37.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7487" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-01T21:35:37.270" Score="0" ViewCount="135" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on bathroom vanity unit project. I don’t have any advanced cutting tools, so getting the pieces cut would be a great help. I am thinking of using Ash, are there any other woods/materials that could lend themselves well for this project?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5311" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2018-07-03T14:37:03.427" LastActivityDate="2018-07-03T15:35:10.943" Title="Where can I buy custom cut wood sections for my project?" Tags="|wood|wood-selection|cutting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7488" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7489" CreationDate="2018-07-02T05:23:11.520" Score="2" ViewCount="484" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do i prevent Baltic pine from chipping when cutting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am new to woodworking and i have used the Mitre, Circular, Table saws and all of them produces an unclean cut, is it to do with my technique or the equipment, the particular wood or any other factor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5312" LastEditorUserId="4942" LastEditDate="2018-07-09T14:44:09.253" LastActivityDate="2018-07-09T14:50:36.463" Title="How to prevent Baltic pine from chipping when cutting" Tags="|cutting|fine-cut|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7488" CreationDate="2018-07-02T17:52:16.720" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is a little broad, but I'll take a shot at answering it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are generally two ways that you can prevent chipping/tearout when cutting, sever the surface fibers in advance of your cut and support them during the cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Severing the fibers is pretty self-explanatory - instead of marking your cutline with a pencil use a marking knife to cut the surface of the wood.  This doesn't have to be too deep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Supporting the fibers during the cut can take a few different forms.  The most common is a &quot;zero-clearance&quot; insert/guide on the side of the material the blade rotates out of.  On a miter saw and table saw this is the table surface, on a circular saw or jigsaw this is the saw side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also support the fibers with a sacrificial piece of wood, again on the side that the blade is coming out of.  You can also get a similar effect with a piece of blue masking tape.  Just be careful when removing the tape to pull it so that it doesn't lift the fibers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition you should make sure that you're using a sharp, high-quality blade, and that you have appropriate RPM and feed rates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2018-07-02T17:52:16.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7490" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-02T22:56:39.243" Score="0" ViewCount="339" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to make a monkey bar for my daughter with Bamboo stakes I got from craiglist. I have a design like this in my mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OFsq0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OFsq0.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two parts of this design, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 Vertical support beams.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 parallel beams with smaller sticks between them (like a ladder).  In attached photo this made of metal. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When both of the pieces are ready we need to fix the parallel beams on fixed 4 vertical beams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thats where I am not able to think of a very reliable way to do this. Outcome needs be a safe joint as kids will use it. Please advise me on the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not an expert in wood working. I have some basic tools (A drill, few saws etc). If needed I can spend around $30 on this project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other suggestion/tips related to this project is welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5217" LastActivityDate="2020-01-15T15:03:35.487" Title="Monkey Bar / Play structure design question" Tags="|joinery|design|strength|stability|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7490" CreationDate="2018-07-03T00:04:51.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Large (1/4&quot; x 2&quot; or bigger - personally I'd probably go 3/8&quot; x 3&quot;) lag bolts with washers.  You'll definitely want to drill pilot holes and will probably need an impact driver to get them in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or drill clearance holes and use a bolt, washer, washer, and nut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it's outside make sure all hardware is galvanized or stainless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you'll probably want to set the legs in concrete or, better yet, cast post bases into concrete and bolt the posts to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2018-07-03T20:23:31.413" LastActivityDate="2018-07-03T20:23:31.413" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7492" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-03T14:11:20.483" Score="3" ViewCount="415" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm developing a hands-on workshop/demo series for elementary schools kids. At some point, I'd like the kids to apply a finish to the baubles I/we make during the workshops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be a good wood finish that's safe for the kids to work with, and apply to their creations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Shellac&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; would be an option too??? I know it's normally made with denatured alcohol, which is poisonous. But I just found out our provincial liquor control board may permit the purchase of pure ethanol for medical, research, manufacturing, and other 'non-beverage' purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that dry shellac flakes are safe. Is this correct? If so, I could mix up my own shellac with 'shellac flakes + pure ethanol,' which I'd regard as a fairly kid-safe mixture. Would this work, or am I missing something here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5318" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2018-08-11T06:03:22.140" LastActivityDate="2018-09-02T22:17:40.850" Title="What kind of finishes can kids safely work with and apply?" Tags="|finishing|safety|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7487" CreationDate="2018-07-03T14:40:13.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ash would be a fine material for it, as well as a large number of others.  I would recommend trying to find something like a MakerSpace near you.  They have equipment for all kinds of projects, and all kinds of saws are generally available, not to mention, people to teach you how to use the equipment if you are unsure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2018-07-03T14:40:13.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7487" CreationDate="2018-07-03T15:35:10.943" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a lumber yard over here in Belgium and we're used to also cut and plane (very) small orders for our customers. So you probably should ask at your local supplier if they can do it for you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3604" LastActivityDate="2018-07-03T15:35:10.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7495" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-03T17:17:08.687" Score="1" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anybody built the tenon cutting jig from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/jeff-miller%E2%80%99s-incredible-tenon-jig&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PJcaha_aq8c&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video here&lt;/a&gt;). I bought the issue of Popular Woodworking issue that it came from and it says the curved support (on the left in the picture) is optional and I'd like to try to build one without it.  But I can't figure out how the jig would be held to the bench.  I need to get a suitable vise and can't get a fancy tail vise as used in the picture.  Would a Moxon-style vise work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5319" LastActivityDate="2018-07-03T17:17:08.687" Title="Using a Jim Miller Tenon Jig" Tags="|workbench|vises|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7492" CreationDate="2018-07-03T22:13:02.627" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beeswax? Paste wax? Mineral oil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Food grade mineral oil can safely be ingested (though too much will act as a mild laxative).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="158" LastActivityDate="2018-07-03T22:13:02.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7498" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7500" CreationDate="2018-07-04T11:19:44.443" Score="1" ViewCount="986" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a box to hold some of my router bits and will use dovetail joints for the vertical sides. I am not sure what to put in front, the tails or the pins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from mechanical considerations, what are the styling considerations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So: &lt;strong&gt;Tails in front or pins in front?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastActivityDate="2018-07-04T12:58:34.220" Title="Styling dovetail box - tails or pins on front side" Tags="|joinery|boxes|dovetail|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7492" CreationDate="2018-07-04T12:57:44.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want something 100% non toxic then look for &lt;em&gt;raw&lt;/em&gt; linseed oil a.k.a flax seed oil. It's a traditional finishing oil but in its raw form it does take a very long time to dry between coats. It's often sold in health food shops as a dietary supplement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be warned than most linseed oil intended for use as a finish is &quot;boiled&quot;, which actually means it has chemicals added to make it dry faster. They used to use quite nasty metallic driers but they may use something more benign now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3343" LastActivityDate="2018-07-04T12:57:44.933" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7498" CreationDate="2018-07-04T12:58:34.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's just an aesthetic decision, it comes down to what you think looks better. For my money, pins are more visually interesting than tails, so I'd face the pins forward (meaning tails are cut into the front and back, pins are cut into the sides).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5190" LastActivityDate="2018-07-04T12:58:34.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1005" CreationDate="2018-07-04T14:38:33.027" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I burned my pine sign and the pitch was sealed. (The wood I used was old pine siding that I planned thin). Mineral spirits takes most of the pitch off but working at inspecting loads of wood I have learned that hand sanitizer disintegrates pitch fast. I tried it on a pine sign and it worked like a charm with no damage to the wood and it removed all the pitch.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5321" LastActivityDate="2018-07-04T14:38:33.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7502" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-04T18:08:11.820" Score="3" ViewCount="289" Body="&lt;p&gt;I chose a water-based stain, Minwax Water-Based (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.minwax.com/wood-products/stains/minwax-water-based-wood-stain&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.minwax.com/wood-products/stains/minwax-water-based-wood-stain&lt;/a&gt;), for my recent unfinished pine shelving project mostly for the lower VOC content. However I was surprised to see formaldehyde on the SDS, especially when you don't often see that on the supposedly more toxic oil-based stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For indoor air quality, does anyone know if this kind of formaldehyde concentration is a concern? Concentration is reported as &amp;lt;0.1% by weight, don't know if that's significant or not. I was hoping to avoid any sort of finish or sealer, not sure if that would help or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5322" LastActivityDate="2018-07-04T18:08:11.820" Title="Formaldehyde in water-based stains" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7503" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7504" CreationDate="2018-07-04T21:07:30.807" Score="4" ViewCount="645" Body="&lt;p&gt;Routing chipboard and pine and other conifer woods a router bit of mine built up residue. I managed to clean some of it with acetone and mineral spirits but still there was left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rMC00.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rMC00.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HL5oI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HL5oI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bit looks and feels sharp, the edge is clean but around the edge there still is some residue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be concerned?&#xA;How can I clean the rest of the residue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastActivityDate="2018-07-07T10:04:55.147" Title="How do I clean resin residue from router bits" Tags="|sharpening|router-bit|clean-up|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7503" CreationDate="2018-07-05T05:10:37.723" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key search term for this residue is &quot;pitch&quot;, like &quot;removing pitch from blade&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A variety of products for cleaning pitch off of cutting tools are sold, many of which use a caustic chemical like that found in spray-on oven cleaner. You may have luck with oven cleaner itself, although those chemicals can remove other things in addition to pitch, like paint and other coatings, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A technique I found amazing, and now use exclusively, is to soak in a hot-as-you-can-stand-it concentrated mixture of liquid laundry detergent and water. This video shows more of the details and produces results just like what I have seen myself: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nYnd6BGifoo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nYnd6BGifoo&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use the same All detergent as shown in the video, just because that's what we have in the house, but I'm sure many others would work just as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Laundry detergent &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; a mild caustic, which perhaps explains its effectiveness, but I've never seen it do any damage to the blades I've cleaned this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really hot tap water will work, boiling water is probably not advisable. As I recall, a 50-50 mixture of detergent to water is optimum. You don't need a huge amount if you use the right shape of container and you can clean multiple blades before refreshing the solution, perhaps warming it up a bit in a microwave between blades. I believe it works with cooler water, but the required soaking time is extended. The used solution can be safely poured down the drain, which of course is what happens when you use it to clean your clothes :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastEditorUserId="2779" LastEditDate="2018-07-06T16:02:06.030" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T16:02:06.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7492" CreationDate="2018-07-05T11:02:47.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is woodturning you can apply pure beeswax, the friction will melt it, and it's a beautiful finish (though not very durable)&#xA;For woodworking I would suggest finding a non-toxic beeswax paste, or you can make it yourself, same effect &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this will allow the kids to experience finishing without chance of harm, which I think is what you're aiming for. Beeswax gives a nice layer of protection, water resistant, and has a visible effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another neat idea is using water soluble non-toxic colors (even Crayola markers) - these would be susceptible to water, but when you apply and then apply wax, you kind of set them in - you can reapply wax as much as you want, use a paper towel to wipe off excesses. And renew whenever you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Non toxi paste wax receipe: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-Non-Toxic-Paste-Wax/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-Non-Toxic-Paste-Wax/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Marker colored, wax finished spinning top (by: Eli Avisera): &lt;a href=&quot;https://goo.gl/images/K3ebNY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://goo.gl/images/K3ebNY&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5323" LastActivityDate="2018-07-05T11:02:47.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7506" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-05T20:47:04.437" Score="2" ViewCount="3175" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built a walnut shelf and finished it with 100%, grade A, straight from the nut, tung oil. I used just a single coat and was happy with the way it finished so ended things there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I continued to take a clean rag to the shelf to wipe down the shelf and continued to be able to get a little oil on the rag up to ~4 or 5 days after oiling the board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a next project, I'm going to use the last bit of scrap walnut to make coasters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the expected abuse they'll take being coasters, I'm thinking it would be a good idea to apply multiple coats of tung oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is, when to apply subsequent coats? Am I right in assuming I should continue to wipe down the wood and then apply a subsequent coat only after the previous no longer leaves the rag brown? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4781" LastActivityDate="2018-07-05T20:47:04.437" Title="How to know when to apply more tung oil?" Tags="|tung-oil|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7507" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-06T12:31:38.403" Score="2" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;What type of wood and its' thickness would be get the best results for making &lt;strong&gt;Christmas colored flame yule logs&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to try and make colored flamed yule logs this year. What type of wood would get the maximum amount of absorption of the (chemical) mixture of colored solution into the wood? What would be the thickest circumference that would enable the colored flames last the longest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most internet sources suggest tightly bound newspaper, wood chips or pine cones. I would like to do the same using wood in the form of small logs, in order to make it resemble a real Christmas yule log for the fireplace. They may take up to a month to dry, prior to using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Helpful Sources:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popsci.com/diy/article/2007-11/how-make-colored-fire&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Make Colored Fire&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.whychristmas.com/customs/yulelog.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The History of the Yule Log&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.motherearthnews.com/homesteading-and-livestock/add-color-to-fireplace-flames-zmaz77ndzgoe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Add Color to Fireplace Flames for Christmas&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yule_log&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Yule log (Wikipedia)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5330" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T12:31:38.403" Title="Wood to be used for Christmas Colored Flame Yule Logs?" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2018-07-12T21:35:03.073" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7503" CreationDate="2018-07-07T10:04:55.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In our industrial timber workshop we use an industrial degreaser to clean the tools. We just let the tools soak in it overnight.&#xA;It works very well but it's pretty dangerous stuff so care has to be taken when handling it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3604" LastActivityDate="2018-07-07T10:04:55.147" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7509" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-07T17:05:51.193" Score="1" ViewCount="3152" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that linseed oil and water-based polyurethane won't work together.  But I have 1/2&quot; poplar paneling that I am installing in my van and am hoping to get the best of both synthetic and natural properties.  I like that the linseed oil soaks into the wood and would help prevent splitting on hot days however it turns the wood more yellow than we'd like.  On the other hand, I heard that water-based polyurethane would keep the wood with the most natural look keeping it mostly white bright, although it might not prevent the wood from splitting as well as linseed oil.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already applied a coat of linseed to one side of a few of the boards and looking at the ends, it looks like it penetrated halfway through the next morning.   i was thinking what if I applied linseed oil to the back of each board (they are 1' x 4 ft vertical panels) and applied water-based polyurethane to the front facing inside of the van - could I get the best of both worlds???? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me know what you think! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5334" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T10:19:02.923" LastActivityDate="2018-07-08T10:48:07.933" Title="Can I use linseed oil and water-based polyurethane on opposing sides of a 1/2&quot; board?" Tags="|polyurethane|boiled-linseed-oil|panel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7510" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-07T18:19:51.127" Score="1" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm converting an old entertainment unit into a huge cage for my ferrets and I'm trying to figure out how to cut a one foot hole through each end to thread and secure tubes leading up the the top where I'll build a run for them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What tool do i need to cut through about a quarter inch of plywood? Pressed board? (Latter i think) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also bonus question but unimportant (I'll Finegal my way through it otherwise) I'm using 1' high dryer tube for the tunnels from top to bottom-how would &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; secure it to the openings of the hole I'll eventually cut, up to a wire cage run on top? Like a sideways U leading from the top cage run to the bottom wood sleeping area. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2018-07-07T22:32:56.090" LastActivityDate="2018-07-08T00:22:16.677" Title="Need to cut a 1' hole through bookshelf-right tool?" Tags="|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7511" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-07T22:46:23.210" Score="3" ViewCount="2704" Body="&lt;p&gt;When building boats, I often have to round edges of various parts so that they are less prone to breaking, and less likely to hurt anyone who might hit against them. However, more often than not, these edges are located in tight places, often near inside corners or other structural elements, which completely prevent usage of even a small router, block plane or a sanding block. I have made several very small (5 cm) long sanding blocks with a groove and a sandpaper strip, but even the coarsest sandpaper takes forever to round an edge to a large radius, and the lack of accessibility of these edges makes this kind of work very tiring and inconvenient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do try to round the edges of parts before installing them whenever possible, but sometimes that can only be done after they are already glued in. My question is, what other tools can I use to round these edges even in the tightest and most hard-to-reach spots?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I thought I'd add a specific example. Take a look at this photo. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ya6HG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ya6HG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It shows the inwale on the sheer of the boat (the railing with spacers). Every edge, inside and out, has to be rounded to a significant radius, so it is comfortable to use to lift and carry the boat without hurting fingers. However, a router cannot reach these short lower segments, because the side of the boat is in the way. A plane or sanding block cannot either, because these segments are too short. And this piece cannot be rounded prior to installation, because of other restrictions. The only way I can round these corners right now is with a steel file, held at a very awkward and uncomfortable position, taking a very, very long time at each segment. Surely there must be a better way to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4999" LastEditorUserId="4999" LastEditDate="2018-07-07T22:58:31.703" LastActivityDate="2018-08-07T00:02:57.193" Title="How can I round edges in places where no router, plane or sanding block can reach?" Tags="|sanding|roundover|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7510" CreationDate="2018-07-08T00:14:57.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The usual way is to mark the circle, drill some small holes around the inside, connect the holes using a jigsaw, use rasps, files or sandpaper to bring the cut-out to desired dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy or make a jig that rigidly connects the jigsaw to a rail whose length is the desired radius and that pivots around a pin, screw, nail or bolt at the desired centre of the circular cutout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A websearch for &quot;jigsaw cutting circle&quot; will find many examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="158" LastEditorUserId="158" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T00:22:16.677" LastActivityDate="2018-07-08T00:22:16.677" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7509" CreationDate="2018-07-08T10:48:07.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to answer the question in the title, yes you can use linseed oil and waterbased poly on opposing sides of board if for some reason you wanted to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I know that linseed oil and water-based polyurethane won't work together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually they can. After curing drying oils aren't oils any longer, the oxidation process has turned them into something else (a natural polymer) and it is possible to use waterbased products over wood treated with them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The oil should be quite 'dry' before applying a waterbased product on top* but if a bonding problem is found shellac can be used to effectively bridge between the oiled wood and the waterbased finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I like that the linseed oil soaks into the wood and would help prevent splitting on hot days &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually it won't. Oils are in fact very poor at preventing water transmission so as counter-intuitive as it seems they are not good at preventing cracks due to drying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I heard that water-based polyurethane would keep the wood with the most natural look keeping it mostly white bright&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes this is correct. At best the wood can look like it's still bare, useful if this is the look that's desired but some protection is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;although it might not prevent the wood from splitting as well as linseed oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the product is of a decent quality then it should be better at this, markedly better in fact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you're having significant problems with wood splitting that signifies a fault in the wood and it's not really something you should be seeking to prevent with finish. Better wood is the answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Overnight drying is not nearly long enough in this case. At least a week is a good idea, longer would not hurt up to about a month after which no improvement is likely to be found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-07-08T10:48:07.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7511" CreationDate="2018-07-08T17:40:15.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some kind of cabinet scraper might work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wa4o6.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wa4o6.gif&quot; alt=&quot;cabinet scrapers&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you aren't familiar, they use a sharp square edge (as opposed to a knife edge) to scrape away wood. A hook is generally formed on the edge using a burnisher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PLxQV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PLxQV.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people make them from old saw-plates but they might be softer than is ideal. Purpose built ones are cheap. A sharp one will take shavings like a plane, removing material at a far greater rate than sandpaper will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ones shown above might not be ideal for getting into tight spaces but they are simply a bit of hard sheet steel and can be shaped however you want. You could shape one to have a concave profile on the end of a narrow projection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long handled versions are available that might help you get into tight corners:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YdiHv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YdiHv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A similar tool, used to make small profiles, called a scratch stock might also be appropriate. They can easily be made yourself and you can either buy blades or repurpose bits of old bandsaw blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q93Ql.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q93Ql.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These tools are all good at getting into awkward areas and will remove material at a much faster rate than sandpaper or a file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3343" LastActivityDate="2018-07-08T17:40:15.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7511" CreationDate="2018-07-09T03:45:24.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The only way I can round these corners right now is with a steel file, held at a very awkward and uncomfortable position, taking a very, very long time at each segment. Surely there must be a better way to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use a strip of sandpaper or &lt;a href=&quot;https://smile.amazon.com/EZ-FLO-45201-Emery-Cloth-Brown/dp/B0006945UQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;emery cloth&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/strong&gt; Drop one end through the hole and hold the ends with each hand so that the abrasive runs over the edge you want to round. Depending on the roundover radius you want, start with a coarse or medium grit to remove material quickly, and finish with a finer grit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Graphus calls this &quot;the shoeshine method&quot; in a comment below, and I'm adding that here because I think it's very descriptive of exactly the motion that's required. The sanding blocks that the OP describes will take a long time to work because of the short stroke. Using both hands to pull a flexible abrasive strip across a corner will be much faster because you can take long strokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2018-07-09T14:51:32.210" LastActivityDate="2018-07-09T14:51:32.210" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7488" CreationDate="2018-07-09T14:50:36.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to add on to SassafraS1232's answer about using a sharp high-quality blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a blade with 60 or more teeth will also help get a cleaner cut when crosscutting. Just make sure you switch it out when you need to make a rip cut with your table/circular saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/307/what-is-the-difference-between-a-rip-cut-and-a-cross-cut&quot;&gt;What is the difference between a rip-cut and a cross-cut?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5343" LastActivityDate="2018-07-09T14:50:36.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7492" CreationDate="2018-07-10T18:11:34.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/products&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tried &amp;amp; True finishes&lt;/a&gt; are advertised as being safe, non-toxic, and free of heavy metal driers and solvents. They're all based on polymerized linseed oil, so they'll dry much faster than raw linseed oil. I've used the varnish oil and the original wood finish, and they both give excellent results. You do need to use some elbow grease and be careful not to apply too much, but other than that they're easy to use and give excellent results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2018-07-10T18:11:34.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7519" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-10T22:03:28.293" Score="2" ViewCount="3191" Body="&lt;p&gt;Building some bunk beds that will be pretty permanent and my plan was just to glue everything to make it nice and sturdy. If I'm gluing is there any reason to use screws at all, trying to make it look nice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5018" LastActivityDate="2018-07-10T22:55:47.310" Title="Any reason to add screws if I only want to use glue?" Tags="|glue|screws|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7519" CreationDate="2018-07-10T22:55:47.310" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lee's comment is right on Ryan. But in any case, we couldn't answer your question without more detail about the construction. Depending on what you're planning, even screws+glue might not be strong enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, glue is only strong in &lt;em&gt;shear&lt;/em&gt;, and not &lt;em&gt;tension&lt;/em&gt;. It's also not effective on end-grain. With either screws or glue (or both), you'll still want the mechanical strength of the wood to be working for you, and that will mean non-trivial joints like mortise and tenon. Just butting pieces up against each other and joining them with glue and screws risks ending in tears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bed especially is subject to jumping and climbing stresses and has unconscious occupants much of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can provide drawings we could give you something more specific. If it were me, I'd be thinking hard about a quick trip to IKEA :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2018-07-10T22:55:47.310" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7174" CreationDate="2018-07-11T14:42:27.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you really want a more solid attachment, drill a few more holes in the metal brackets and just add more screws. It looks like there's space for at least two more screws on each side of each bracket, so you could have up to six screws per bracket instead of the current two. Routing recesses into the bottom of the top boards to accept the brackets could add some more strength as well, since some of the lateral force during clamping would be taken by the edge of the bracket meeting the side of the recess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, you generally don't get a huge amount of clamping force from the jaws of a Workmate. It's enough to hold work steady, like clamping a board while you're cutting it to length, but I wouldn't choose a Workmate for clamping a panel made from gluing several boards together. So while it might make sense to add a few extra screws to increase longevity, you probably don't need to do more than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2018-07-11T14:42:27.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7522" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-11T16:59:21.800" Score="1" ViewCount="256" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have built four oak wine barrel chairs that will be outdoors in a dry, high-UV climate. I see other chairs in our climate that the poly finish cracks and doesn't last long. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to put on an oil finish (Danish or tung) for the health of the wood but don't want to be doing it monthly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I put poly over oil if I change my mind? Any suggestions on best finish for my situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5347" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-09-06T11:11:37.077" LastActivityDate="2019-09-06T11:11:37.077" Title="Finish options for oak chairs, outdoors + high UV" Tags="|finishing|outdoor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7522" CreationDate="2018-07-11T18:58:57.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;UV exposure is best dealt with using something with UV inhibitors: paint, stain, or marine spar varnish. Oil finish will not last long at all, ie it will require frequent renewing (monthly in a sunny climate seems about right!). Do not use regular poly, it will degrade and be very unsightly. However, you CAN put spar varnish directly over oil if you change your mind (at that point the oil will basically be gone, or soon enough, anyway). same goes for oil-based stain. Paint can be applied also, but do a spot check of adhesion with the right primer... eg, latex paint won't adhere to a newly oiled surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2018-07-11T18:58:57.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7524" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-11T22:55:20.717" Score="2" ViewCount="2578" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering quality of cut and safety, I'm looking for suggestions on good tools/methods for cutting 1/8&quot; knife blanks. The other dimensions would be 6-8&quot; and 1.5-2.5&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I make straight razor scales out of 1/8&quot; blanks, however until now I have been limited on selection and paying a premium. However I have not found a good way to cut such small pieces of wood safely and efficiently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently the tools at my disposal are a very nice Bosch 12&quot; radial arm saw and a very old and craftsman table saw on a wobbly stand with no guard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would prefer to do this with the radial arm saw but I am concerned about the quality of the cut since I can't really hold on to, or clamp the side being cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4323" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2018-07-12T11:44:08.507" LastActivityDate="2018-07-19T18:19:41.067" Title="What are some good ways to cut 1/8&quot; strips of hardwood?" Tags="|safety|hardwood|rip-cut|fine-cut|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7524" CreationDate="2018-07-11T23:26:46.343" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several ways to do this.  The radial arm saw would probably be my last choice, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can find material 1 1/2 - 2 1/2&quot; thick then you could just rip strips off of this with your table saw.  This would probably be the easiest.  Rip cuts (where you're laying the board flat on the table and reducing its width) are what table saws are designed for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't source material this thick then you'll need to resaw a board.  (This is where you'd be standing the board on edge and reducing its thickness.)  You can do this on your table saw, but a band saw with a wide blade would be preferred.  Either way you'll need a tall fence that is absolutely parallel with your blade, both vertically and horizontally.  Make sure the board is flat and the edge on the table is well jointed.  You should use push sticks to keep your hands well clear of the blade.  Also, if you're using the table saw position your body so as to avoid being hit by the work piece if it kicks back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2018-07-12T22:03:21.457" LastActivityDate="2018-07-12T22:03:21.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7526" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7537" CreationDate="2018-07-12T09:56:37.427" Score="3" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a really, really small work space and I would like a bandsaw and I'm looking for something as small as possible. Even the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/27172.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Proxxon MBS 240&lt;/a&gt; is a bit too large for my space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I even have a chance of finding a bandsaw that would not be taller than 18 inches (450 mm)? Or maybe it isn't even produced by anyone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastEditorUserId="5330" LastEditDate="2018-07-13T19:33:44.623" LastActivityDate="2018-07-30T14:43:41.517" Title="Does a bandsaw up 18 inches tall or smaller exist?" Tags="|power-tools|band-saw|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6221" CreationDate="2018-07-12T10:41:21.537" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I came across this question while researching tung oil characteristics. The question was posted a year ago, so the original need is no longer relevant, but for others with similar questions it may be of use if I post what I learned. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tung oil does not &quot;dry&quot; by evaporation (like water or organic solvents). It cures by polymerization. The curing process is facilitated by oxygen. Tung oil on the wood surface therefore polymerizes relatively quickly compared to tung oil that has penetrated into the wood, where it is in a relatively oxygen-poor environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another useful fact is that tung oil polymerization can be catalyzed using a &quot;drying agent&quot;, which is typically a metal-salt in a form that allows it to form an emulsion when mixed into a non-polar substance (ie. most oils). A tung oil combined with such a catalyst will cure faster and the cure will be less dependent on exposure to oxygen in the air. An example of a drying agent is manganese-acetyl-acetonate. Cobalt-compounds are also commonly used. Other metal compounds can be used, but they tend to be more toxic or have strong coloration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, based on what we know about the problem described, it appears that slow curing of oil that had penetrated deep into the wood allowed it to seep back out over time. The structure of the specific wood used may have played a role in allowing deep penetration of the oil. The seeped oil that reached the surface was exposed to relatively high levels of oxygen, and cured to hard polymer that was resistant to solvents. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solutions could include:&#xA;1. Thinner coats with ample &quot;drying&quot; time between coats.&#xA;2. Adding a &quot;drying&quot; agent to the tung oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5348" LastActivityDate="2018-07-12T10:41:21.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7524" CreationDate="2018-07-12T12:36:18.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before I get into the Answer proper I wanted to say that I'm presuming from the outset that you don't need to produce perfect blanks like many commercial ones are. That level of finish is useful for marketing and sales because it gives a clearer picture to prospective buyers of exactly what they're getting, but you don't need to aim for that since you have the wood right in front of you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And working towards getting surfaces that nice, when none of them will remain on the finished item, is pointless and you'll save a lot of time and effort if you produce blanks that are just good enough to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's tons of post-assembly shaping involved in knife handles so I'm assuming it's similar for razors, so you really only need the pieces to be flat (no bow etc.), of even thickness even if only approximately 1/8&quot; thick, and reasonably smooth (a flawless surface is actually &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; desirable if bonding with epoxy and using light clamp pressure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how might you do this? Instead of concentrating on the actually tools you'd use to do the various steps here's the &lt;em&gt;approach&lt;/em&gt; I'd take, which can be done in various ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy stock in board form.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resaw over-thick to allow for flattening and getting to rough thickness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;IF NEEDED plane &lt;em&gt;one face&lt;/em&gt; to get the wood to thickness. The other face doesn't matter unless you have OCD and can't bring yourself to work with wood that has a rough surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rip strips of suitable width.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cross-cut strips to length. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wood's ready to use then. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously you're going to quickly generate enough blanks that you'll need to store some since only one longish board 1/2&quot; thick is going to produce more than you can immediately make use of, so it might be important (depending on the wood, your local conditions and any expected changes to those) to store the stock wrapped in plastic wrap or inside airtight plastic boxes to keep the wood stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, which tools to do the above?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could do this using &lt;strong&gt;hand tools&lt;/strong&gt;. This might sound crazy if you don't use hand tools much but every process is perfectly doable by manual methods, especially if you set up a production line to do repeat steps in one go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the way I'd do it since I own no power saws, but I'm not suggesting it for that reason. Since you don't currently own the tools necessary to do all the steps (at all, much less safely) you have to do some buying and this is by far the most cost-effective route, although obviously there will be some sweat equity needed as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to buy in a power tool to help with this, then I highly recommend getting a &lt;strong&gt;bandsaw&lt;/strong&gt;. Bandsaws are &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; power saw for doing resawing and can rip and crosscut effectively too, so fairly easy to set one up to do all the sawing steps you need here, and down the line a bandsaw will give you the most bang for the buck because of how versatile they are. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional safety note:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;a very old and craftsman table saw on a wobbly stand with no guard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it also has no riving knife then I would strongly strongly recommend you never use this to cut anything. Until such time that you've sorted out at least one of the important safety features (ideally both!) and have fixed the stand it's an accident waiting to happen, and accidents at the table saw can be life-changing or life-ending events.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-07-12T12:36:18.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7187" CreationDate="2018-07-13T01:01:01.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is that the work was not done by a router approach, or at least not all of it. A possiblity is that the  circle and larger corner walls were done using a router with a largish bit, say the inner diameter of the corner pieces. Then the central letter and the inner corner details were cut from a matching thin sheet using a fret saw and then glued in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty dubious about getting a router bit to handle the details of the central letter, especially the intersection of the vertical bar and the central horizontal bar. A thin saw blade would have no problem, and would handle the sharp inner corners you see on the letter corner and the corner detail pieces. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even more radically, all of the internal walls could be cut from a thin sheet and glued in place, with a well cut into the face using a considerably larger router bit. While this would seem to be a lot of work, a positioning jig would make accurate assembly simple, and it would explain the apparently smooth bottom of the well. I'm not sure how you'd get the tool marks out of the wood if you used a small-diameter routing bit, but that may simply reflect my lack of experience in a rather specialized technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="463" LastActivityDate="2018-07-13T01:01:01.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7530" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-13T02:12:35.553" Score="1" ViewCount="247" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today we were supposed to do a second coat of finish on our hard wood floors. But accidentally we started with the sealant we used before we did our first coat of finish... we noticed about 25min in that it was the wrong stuff so we washed it off then tried wiping it up with a towel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now we don’t know if we messed it all up or if we can sand the part we put sealant on and just start with our second coat of finish? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5349" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2018-08-05T15:40:54.783" LastActivityDate="2018-08-05T15:40:54.783" Title="What happens if I put wood sealant on top of wood finish by accident?" Tags="|staining|refinishing|hardwood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7531" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-13T09:08:41.380" Score="2" ViewCount="327" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm designing a picture frame ledge and trying to keep the design as minimalistic as possible. The concept is similar to the following Ikea ledge: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/70292104/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mosslanda&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I came up with the idea of using a keyhole router bit to create a rail to allow for easy hanging. This would require to drill some holes and use the screws to mount the ledge directly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kpvHE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kpvHE.png&quot; alt=&quot;model&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll be using a glued laminated birch board (18mm thick).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the structurally sound?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I calculate the maximal load of such a thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5165" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2018-07-16T13:10:37.203" LastActivityDate="2018-07-16T13:10:37.203" Title="Hanging a picture frame ledge with a keyhole routed slot" Tags="|router|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7532" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-13T10:16:49.187" Score="2" ViewCount="273" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have this Italian made marquetry dining table which has a polyurethane finish. I acquired this as a used item and I noticed after purchase that in the light I can see streaked areas where it has been in full sun and has the same appearance as if it has ring (water) damage. Is there a product that will rejuvenate the finish or do I have to cut it back and refinish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5351" LastEditorUserId="2524" LastEditDate="2018-07-13T13:11:23.287" LastActivityDate="2018-07-13T13:11:23.287" Title="Sun damaged polyurethane-finished dining table" Tags="|wood-repair|polyurethane|refinishing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5172" CreationDate="2018-07-13T13:58:29.937" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a piece of 1&quot; x 1&quot; or bigger if it will work.  The piece should be about 3&quot; longer than from one leg accross to the other leg...an &quot;x&quot; like you are doing with the fishing line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, in one end cut (scroll or coping saw a &quot;u&quot; shape that will allow the wood to press against the leg and not slip off.  If you are worried about chopping your fingers off, you could also cut a &quot;V&quot; shape.  Press that end against a leg (get a helper to hold it there, go to the other end and mark where you need  to cut so that you do the same thing on the other end. Remember it is always better to measure twice and cut once then the opposite. There's also better to leave it long, because you can always take more off but if you cut it short you can't put it back on ...u want it to be a little long anyway so that when you're done you have to tap one end into place with a mallet so that it is  pressing against firmly against the leg. One thing I have noticed is that tables with 810 top tend to be more wobbly as there's no wait hold in the legs down you can also experiment with cutting square pieces of wood I mean triangle pieces of wood and putting them against the leg or you could even try plumbers pipe strap going from the bottom of the table top to the table leg &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5352" LastActivityDate="2018-07-13T13:58:29.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7530" CreationDate="2018-07-13T13:59:10.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't specify what &quot;sealant&quot; and final finish you were using but there's a dirty secret in the finishing world, in general &quot;sealant&quot; products are nothing more than dilute forms of wood finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't universal but presumably the two products you have there are similar enough that you couldn't immediately spot that you'd opened the wrong tin, which suggests that they are from the same 'family' so to speak. So you could unknowingly have been applying the very same thing as your final finish, just in more dilute form, sold in a different package.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you managed to clean it off without making a mess of the surface and the area dries properly there's a good chance you can continue to apply your second coat of finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're concerned there might be an issue do a small test in an inconspicuous spot and see how it dries, whether it dries too slowly or incompletely, remaining sticky for an extended period, which would suggest an incompatibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-07-13T13:59:10.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7531" CreationDate="2018-07-13T18:26:31.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest issue I see with this design is that it would require a very precise distance from the wall to the step in the T-slot to keep the shelf tight against the wall.  Walls are usually not very straight, though.  So if you have more than one bracket (or if this is actually supposed to be a full-length ledger board) you'll have problems attaching it to the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead I would just make a rectangular ledger board.  Then make the cavity in your shelf have a gap between the ledger board and the internal shelf structure.  That way you can push the shelf tight against the wall even if it isn't straight.  (For even better results you can scribe the shelf into the wall to eliminate any gap.)  Then just screw through the top of the shelf into the ledger board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2018-07-13T18:26:31.467" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7526" CreationDate="2018-07-13T21:03:57.630" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do I even have a chance of finding a bandsaw that would not be taller than 18 inches (450 mm)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the history of the world, it's very likely that &lt;em&gt;someone&lt;/em&gt; produced a very small bandsaw at some point, and if so, one will turn up sooner or later on Ebay. If you're really looking for something like that, look for a three-wheeled bandsaw. Two-wheeled bandsaws are much more common, and in that setup the hight of the saw is basically the distance between the wheel axles plus the diameter of one of the wheels, plus a little more for the enclosure, so the height of the saw is directly related to the saw's cutting capacity. A three-wheeled model uses smaller wheels with the third wheel set off to the side to increase the width of the band's path and provide a deeper throat while limiting the height of the saw. The downside of this design is that smaller wheels mean that the blade bends more, which can stress the blade and lead to breaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder if this isn't an XY problem, i.e. one where you're asking about the solution you expect rather than the problem you actually have. What capability does a tiny bandsaw offer that you couldn't get from, say, a scroll saw, a portable jigsaw, or a &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00L47FZ8A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rockwell Bladerunner&lt;/a&gt; (basically an inverted, stationary jigsaw)? A scroll saw, for example, gives you much greater throat capacity than a small bandsaw would, and a handheld jigsaw can handle anything you can reach to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2018-07-13T21:03:57.630" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7538" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7539" CreationDate="2018-07-14T17:08:14.353" Score="4" ViewCount="1467" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I square faces and edges of boards with only a #4 hand held plane? I've read a #4 can be used in combination with a #7, but a #7 is seeming out of the budget for me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5260" LastActivityDate="2018-07-23T13:41:09.547" Title="Squaring boards with only a #4 plane" Tags="|plane|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7538" CreationDate="2018-07-14T19:38:44.233" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is very much not ideal to do so, but it is always possible to flatten surfaces with planes shorter than the wood you're working on (obvious really, but many people don't see this and assume that long planes are necessary when in fact they're merely desirable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To offset the physical limitations of a short plane doing this kind of thing you must adopt a careful, stage-by-stage approach to the work, stopping planing frequently to check progress. This is actually a lot harder to do than it sounds! But it's a must, and the same basic thing is the secret to the success of many hand-tool operations — doing the work slowly and methodically, checking at each break for square, flatness etc. and adjusting as needed for the next round of work. Every stage gets you closer and closer to straight or flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that the main practical thing using a short plane is to identify and mark high spots &lt;em&gt;and plane those areas only&lt;/em&gt;, where with a longer plane it would naturally bridge gaps and plane off those high spots automatically. This is illustrated in many guides to planing by a version of a simple drawing, here's one example from an old Stanley publication*:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dULjq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dULjq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Easier to plane flat using long plane&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Note it says &lt;em&gt;easier&lt;/em&gt;, not &lt;em&gt;only possible&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paul Sellers would be a good person to focus on if you're serious about doing everything with a no. 4 (not just for this by any means but for this especially). He is a big proponent of doing a lot of work with the no. 4 where others would advise doing the least amount of work possible with one, using other planes as needed for each of their specialist roles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now as I read someone put it once, Paul Sellers can do jointing and flatten boards with a no. 4 because he's a ninja with a plane, and you aren't so you can't. While that's amusing and has an element of truth if you work as advised above you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; achieve similar results I promise you.... but much more slowly obviously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*There is a surprisingly amount of cornerstone advice on planing on just that one page so I'll link to the whole image it's taken from, &lt;a href=&quot;https://lostartpress.files.wordpress.com/2015/05/plane_use_2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here on LostArtPress&lt;/a&gt; so you can see the whole thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-07-14T19:38:44.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27" CreationDate="2018-07-15T12:31:49.370" Score="6" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Careful measuring and marking&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stop your work moving by using a vice or bench-hook&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a sharp saw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure you are comfortable and have room to work&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dont rush&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Practice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5355" LastActivityDate="2018-07-15T12:31:49.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7541" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-16T04:28:54.823" Score="4" ViewCount="7420" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently made a desk using a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ikea.com/ca/en/catalog/products/50106773/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gerton&lt;/a&gt; beech wood top from Ikea. Ikea recommends using their &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ikea.com/ca/en/catalog/products/50070378/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Behandla&lt;/a&gt; finishing oil in the instructions included with the top. I am a bit skeptical of this finish, however, (seems like BLO) and would like to use an alternative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will be using this as a computer desk and my top priorities for a finish are that it be at least somewhat water resistant (don't need to worry about using coasters) and food safe.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After doing a bit of research, it seems like pure/raw tung oil might do the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main questions are &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is this a good choice given my needs or should I consider an alternative? (I would like to keep the finish 'natural' looking/feeling)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As a side question, is BLO food safe? I have heard Ikea claims their Behandla finish is food safe, but the listed 'metal drying agents' make me skeptical...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If I go the pure tung oil route, do I need to cut it with something like mineral oil when applying (as some sites recommend) or is it fine to just put it on straight out of the can?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is pure tung oil the best choice, or can I go with something like polymerized tung and still be food safe?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2018-07-16T13:13:06.137" LastActivityDate="2018-07-16T13:13:06.137" Title="Finishing a beech desk top (Ikea Gerton), suitability of tung oil" Tags="|finishing|tung-oil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7541" CreationDate="2018-07-16T13:07:57.290" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After doing a bit of research, it seems like pure/raw tung oil might do the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to discount its suitability for this below but I want to caution to be careful of user reports of tung oil's superiority to BLO as a finish because, to be frank, a lot of them are accepting its reputation on face value and have never given it any sort of proper testing&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. Its reputation for superior waterproofing can be wildly exaggerated, and like any straight oil using in finishing there's a limit to how much heat it can resist (&lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; cured oils soften noticeably when heated, e.g. from the bottom of a hot coffee mug).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;at least somewhat water resistant (don't need to worry about using coasters) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you genuinely want to go coaster-free this is quite a bit beyond somewhat water resistant and actually discounts all penetrating oil finishes&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You almost have to use varnish or lacquer. Only those are sufficiently heat- and water-resistant that you can use the surface with complete impunity from water marks, coffee stains and heat damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And in terms of consumer-level finishes you're really looking at polyurethane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the 'natural' look and feel as specified it's best to use it in the form of wiping varnish, which I was going to recommend anyway because it's far easier to achieve a good result with varnish diluted to a thinner consistency than it is using it at full strength. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See more on wiping varnish in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5891/how-to-fix-very-light-scratches-in-polyurethane-finish/5893#5893&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;can I go with something like polymerized tung &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Polymerized tung oil is greatly improved as a finish over basic raw tung oil. However it can be extremely expensive, and on top of this requires a very slow and labour-intensive finishing regimen that makes it much less suited to large flat surfaces like a tabletop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As a side question, is BLO food safe? I have heard Ikea claims their Behandla finish is food safe, but the listed 'metal drying agents' make me skeptical...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're right to be sceptical but the short answer is yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to mention that there's a lot of disagreement about the question of food safety in relation to finishes in woodworking circles online but the basic fact is that all finishes should be considered food safe, especially on something like a desk. However even for food-prep surfaces every conventional finish, &lt;em&gt;including those that contain heavy-metal driers&lt;/em&gt;, is safe once fully cured as far as we know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is Bob Flexner on the subject from one of his books (my emphasis):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;Food safety is a non-issue because &lt;strong&gt;there's no evidence of a problem and there never has been&lt;/strong&gt;. So far as we know, all finishes are safe to eat off of, and safe for children to chew on, once the finish has fully cured (the rule of thumb being 30 days).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;    ...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;    I want to make clear that I'm not saying that all finishes are food safe—we can't be absolutely sure about the safety of any curing finish. I'm saying that there is no evidence of any common wood finish being unsafe for food or mouth contact once it has fully cured, so a distinction between food-safe and non-food-safe is speculative. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's as unequivocal as I need a source to be, but others reading the same thing retain their doubts. So, as always, you have to make your own mind up about this sort of thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; The fact is that many users aren't really subjecting surfaces finished using tung oil to much hard use, sometimes because of the effort it has taken to get a good result with it in the first place! Tung oil is noticeably slower to finish with than BLO, only partly because of its much slower drying time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; You can achieve a respectable level of protection from various oil finishes but only if you're willing to spend a month or more doing the finishing job..... yeah, didn't think so ^_^ By comparison, it'll often take less than a week to achieve &lt;em&gt;a superior finish&lt;/em&gt; using varnish, plus necessary curing time after application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-07-16T13:07:57.290" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7543" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7544" CreationDate="2018-07-17T18:42:41.487" Score="9" ViewCount="14397" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a belt sander and noticed that while using it stationary it can get clogged (on a certain region) real fast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sharpness of the area is not lost but it's just clogged with wood dust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is a proper way to clean it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastActivityDate="2022-01-06T14:45:55.513" Title="How to clean clogged sandpaper" Tags="|sanding|power-tools|clean-up|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7543" CreationDate="2018-07-17T19:01:51.150" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are special products out there called sanding belt cleaners (one such is harbor freight sku 30766), they're essentially large gum eraser sticks that grab particles out of the sanding belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another avenue to look at is consider why the belt is loading up. Try applying less pressure while sanding, or run a shop vac in one hand and the sander in the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5360" LastActivityDate="2018-07-17T19:01:51.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7543" CreationDate="2018-07-18T07:38:57.197" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to cleaning your belt with &lt;a href=&quot;https://smile.amazon.com/POWERTEC-71002-Abrasive-Cleaning-Stick/dp/B00AJW0CY8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a cleaning stick&lt;/a&gt; as rockerpult suggested, you should also take a look at the material you're sanding and the belt you're sanding with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finishes that form a film on top of the wood (paint, shellac, polyurethane, etc.) often clog sandpaper, so if you're using the sander on a large finished surface, you might want to consider other options (e.g. chemical stripper or scraping) to remove the finish before sanding. Woods that contain a lot of resin or oils can also build up easily. In can help to keep a block of wood that's not prone to clogging on hand, and just run it against the sander when buildup starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Switching belts may also help. I find that coarser grits tend to clog less, so take the time to switch to a coarse belt if you're removing a lot of material. Also, some belts are coated with stearate, which is a sort of release agent that prevents clogging; using one of these could help. (Some kinds of stearate don't get along with water-based finishes, though, so read the labels and think ahead.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2018-07-18T07:38:57.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="290" CreationDate="2018-07-18T16:11:32.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there any such thing as sanding something &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; fine for finishing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes.&lt;/strong&gt; The whole point of extremely fine abrasives is to make extremely smooth surfaces. Some finishes (film-forming finishes like paint and polyurethane) adhere to the workpiece better if the surface is a bit rough. Scuff sanding with fine grit sandpaper (i.e. 220 or 320) is recommended for very smooth surfaces before applying the first coat and sometimes also between coats. So in some cases sanding to an extremely smooth surface before the final coat isn't just unhelpful, it's counterproductive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2018-07-18T16:11:32.187" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7407" CreationDate="2018-07-19T02:23:35.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the blade is CMT 64 teeth for crosscutting with thin kerf&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've established that the problem happens as the blade is spinning down, not when you're making the cut. I'd start by changing the blade for one with a standard kerf. With a thin kerf blade, the whole blade is thinner and less rigid. As the saw spins down after the cut, it passes through certain speeds at which the blade resonates, and a thinner, more flexible blade will vibrate more than a thicker, stiffer one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to add a blade stiffener, which is basically a flat plate that rides against the blade and helps to keep it from vibrating. You can also get blade stabilizers, which are like a pair of precision made, oversized arbor washers that also help reduce vibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2018-07-19T02:23:35.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7524" CreationDate="2018-07-19T18:19:41.067" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;However I have not found a good way to cut such small pieces of wood safely and efficiently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several ways to cut small pieces safely and efficiently; you just don't have the tools you need to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Currently the tools at my disposal are a very nice Bosch 12&quot; radial arm saw and a very old and craftsman table saw on a wobbly stand with no guard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can build a better stand and make a guard, you'll have the right tool for the job. Until that happens, get someone else to rip a board into long strips of the thickness you need. Then you can take the strips home and crosscut them to length with the radial arm saw. Have the strips cut a bit thicker than you need and buy yourself a hand plane to bring them down to the final thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you buy your wood from a local hardwood dealer, they'll almost certainly be able to rip the board to size for you using a table saw or a band saw. They might charge you a bit extra for the trouble, but you'll get a lot of blanks out of a single 96&quot;x6&quot;x1&quot; board, and the extra cost will be small compared to buying your own machine and finding space for it. The band saw is the better option because it has a much narrower kerf, so you'll have less waste, but go with what's available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't get your dealer to help you out, then find a willing friend to slice up a few boards. It'll only take a few minutes per board, and a few boards will probably yield all the blanks you can use for a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No friend? Find a local maker space. Most of them have reasonable daily rates, and again, with the right tools you can make a lot of blanks from a few boards in a short time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I would prefer to do this with the radial arm saw but I am concerned about the quality of the cut since I can't really hold on to, or clamp the side being cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although radial arm saws can be used in rip mode, they're not the right tool for the job. If you're not sure how to do it safely, you need to either get someone with experience to show you, or find a different way. I really think you'll end up with better results by getting someone else to rip your boards, or fixing up your table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2018-07-19T18:19:41.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7550" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-19T20:52:16.467" Score="0" ViewCount="260" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a dowel blade from a hardware store, and it won't cut through a 2x4. Is there anything I can do to cut dowels from the 2x4 for mushroom cultivation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5364" LastActivityDate="2018-07-20T11:02:51.673" Title="Is there a way to extend the length of a dowel blade?" Tags="|drill-bits|dowel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7550" CreationDate="2018-07-19T23:47:23.743" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;TL;DR&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Return or sell the 2x4, &quot;drill bit&quot; / &quot;dowel blade&quot; and/or skip lunch and use the money to buy a pack of 1000 ready-made dowels online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there a way to extend the length of a dowel blade?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not familiar with &quot;dowel blades&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are blades for dowel-cutting saws which are the same as flush-cutting saws. These are for cutting through the protruding ends of dowels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IMqQe.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IMqQe.png&quot; alt=&quot;dowel saw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see how you can use these for manufacturing dowels from a 2x4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To cut up a softwood 2x4, I would use a regular full-sized handsaw of the sort you can buy for the price of a hamburger meal at McDonalds. It would be extremely tedious to do this by hand to create 1000 typical-sized dowels though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;i want to use the drill bit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Plug Cutters&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using a plug cutter, there is no way to extend the depth they can cut to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gXVYF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gXVYF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;plug cutter&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never seen one that could cut all the way through a 2x4. Obviously, with a table saw you could rip the 2x4 into thinner planks to suit a plug cutter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there anything I can do to cut dowels from the 2x4&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Making dowels&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would use a table saw to rip the 2x4 down to square rods with width equal to the desired dowel diameter, saw to length then hammer those pieces through a series of dowel plates&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ra6GD.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ra6GD.png&quot; alt=&quot;dowel plate in use&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also &lt;a href=&quot;https://paulsellers.com/2013/07/poor-mans-dowel-maker/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Paul Sellers' Poor-man's dowel maker&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Ready made dowels&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy dowels online in fairly large quanities. In my part of the world they are typically beech wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 100 pack of 8x30 dowels &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-wooden-dowels-8-x-30mm-100-pack/2724t&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;might cost you the price of a cup of coffee at Starbucks&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or you can buy 1000 from eBay for not much more&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/77QJo.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/77QJo.png&quot; alt=&quot;1000 dowels&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy longer dowels in the form of 1m or 1 yard rods and cut them to whatever size you need using a hand saw or whatever cutting tools you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CHBMW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CHBMW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;dowels&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt; 100 4x600mm dowels&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be worth keeping the 2x4 for some other purpose and buying ready-made dowels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;for mushroom cultivation?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Mushrooms&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do mushrooms really need circular cross-section dowels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm no expert but I guess they just need small chunks of hardwood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe you could attack the 2x4 with a regular hand-saw and axe, hachet or chisel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="158" LastEditorUserId="158" LastEditDate="2018-07-20T11:02:51.673" LastActivityDate="2018-07-20T11:02:51.673" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7552" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7556" CreationDate="2018-07-20T04:05:19.723" Score="2" ViewCount="3235" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1/4 inch cabinet door and I would like to install a soft close hinge, but they all require a massive hole for the machinery to go inside the door itself. You would have to have super thick door (at least 3/4&quot; thick) to support such a hole. Is there a technical reason why soft close is not made for lighter doors? It seems like it would weaken the door to have huge holes in it and I would like to know why the machinery is not on the cabinet shelf (hidden) instead of the door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5365" LastActivityDate="2018-07-21T17:29:00.850" Title="Why do all soft close hinges require 1/2 inch or 12mm holes on the cabinet door?" Tags="|cabinetry|hinges|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7526" CreationDate="2018-07-20T23:29:45.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although not a large production item, this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MTn95Ik95KM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bandsaw&lt;/a&gt; is a small DIY which many can build.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastActivityDate="2018-07-20T23:29:45.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7543" CreationDate="2018-07-21T14:41:51.690" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been using an old sneaker because I saw it recommended repeatedly.  Seems to work fine, and doesn't effect the remaining grit so far as I can tell. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.familyhandyman.com/tools/use-a-sneaker-to-clean-sandpaper/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.familyhandyman.com/tools/use-a-sneaker-to-clean-sandpaper/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4272" LastActivityDate="2018-07-21T14:41:51.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7552" CreationDate="2018-07-21T17:22:04.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have not mentioned a particular hinge, but many soft-close hinges are &quot;euro&quot;-style cup hinges, and I assume that's what you're asking about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Euro-style hinges were designed in, well, Europe, in the aftermath of World War II, when a great many houses and therefore kitchens had to be rebuilt, particularly after the fire-storms in Germany. The problem outstripped the capacity of individual, built-in-place-by-a-carpenter cabinets and the solution was to manufacture cabinets in factories. You can find more on the history here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/32_mm_cabinetmaking_system&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/32_mm_cabinetmaking_system&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Euro-style cabinets (the kind you find at IKEA and many big-box stores), also known as &quot;frameless&quot; cabinets, were designed by engineers for large-scale manufacturing and compact (flat-pack) transportation. They were also designed to use inexpensive materials throughout, in particular to not require solid wood (baseline euro cabinets are built entirely from particleboard). The so-called &quot;32mm system&quot; of vertical rows of holes is part of that system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hinges were designed with a &quot;cup&quot; that locates the door-side of the hinge precisely and provides much more support than screws alone by fitting snugly into an easy-to-machine-at-scale 35mm flat-bottomed recess cut into the door. Any hinge that meets this interface can be used without on-site drilling of custom holes, regardless of the hinge manufacturer. It also compensates for the use of weaker materials, in particular particleboard instead of solid-wood otherwise used in the door frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The depth of the cup varies, although I'm sure there's a minimum and maximum in an ISO spec somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason why this depth is more than 1/4&quot; is just as Graphus and SaSSafraS1232 mention in their comments. The standard door thickness is 3/4&quot; for stability reasons. It's a heavily stressed part of the cabinet and is supported only by the hinges, compared to the cabinet box elements which are supported full-length by each other and usually a wall and/or floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastEditorUserId="2779" LastEditDate="2018-07-21T17:29:00.850" LastActivityDate="2018-07-21T17:29:00.850" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7557" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-21T21:11:24.037" Score="1" ViewCount="67" Body="&lt;p&gt;My painted board has 2 coats of shellac &amp;amp; has dried for 2 days. But when I place a piece of décor on it, it leaves a mark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5368" LastActivityDate="2018-07-22T04:37:33.987" Title="Painted board coated with shellac" Tags="|paint|shellac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7557" CreationDate="2018-07-22T04:37:33.987" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shellac applied in thin coats normally dries very quickly, but it won't harden completely if the shellac is too old. Check the can -- there may be an expiration date that'll help you judge how old it is. If the shellac has been stored in a warm place, like a hot garage, that can shorten its useful lifetime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can check the condition of your shellac by spreading a bit on a piece of glass. The shellac should harden quickly; if it doesn't, and instead remains tacky or gummy, then the shellac is too old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd let the piece sit for a while longer if you can -- maybe you'll get lucky and the finish will fully harden with more time. But if it seems like it's never going to harden, then you can remove the shellac with alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2018-07-22T04:37:33.987" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7560" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7563" CreationDate="2018-07-23T09:22:20.890" Score="1" ViewCount="745" Body="&lt;p&gt;What strategies are there for clamping long boards to a workbench for hand planing their long edges? My bench doesn't have a leg vice but does have a tail vice and bench dogs. However, the bench dogs are thin and rectangular so it doesn't feel too secure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paul sellers suggests his own system (26 mins in) &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/SozekTvPpJM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bench is an earlier version of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-1700-workbench-505948&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; one. My dogs are rectangular and I only have 2. There is a dog hole in the tail vice but none in the face vice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bench is approx 5 1/2' x 3’ and the board I was trying to plane was about the same length as the bench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4638" LastEditorUserId="4638" LastEditDate="2018-07-23T18:26:36.603" LastActivityDate="2018-07-24T03:34:36.370" Title="Securing long boards for edge jointing" Tags="|workbench|hand-planing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7538" CreationDate="2018-07-23T13:41:09.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I couldn't tell from the original question whether you had a #4 already, or whether you're looking for a first plane to get started, say. It sounds like you've made the decision to dimension by hand, so that's a given and it wouldn't be relevant to say you could consider power tools that produce the needed result in more of a production manner and spend time saved toward finished product. Or that a jointer might not be as handy in a shooting board, for example (other purposes weighing in the decision).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sure get a lot of enjoyment out of hand planing (just in its own right, he whispers). If you're just starting you'll be figuring out some of the things that are as important as the length of the plane (how to keep the blade sharp, tool configuration, the feel for planing technique, reading grain, how to produce parallel faces and edges once you've got a reference, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been doing a lot of planing but still consider myself in the seasoned &lt;em&gt;beginner&lt;/em&gt; class :) You mention board in your post and I was curious what lengths you'd be working with. I feel comfortable dimensioning a three foot board with a &quot;short&quot; plane, say, but would run in terror from eight! I'm better at surfacing edges rather than faces and handling twist/cup puts my brain and patience into overdrive, even with an augmented tool set, meaning winding sticks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some good articles suggesting a progression of hand plane purchases. For example: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wwgoa.com/article/hand-plane-starter-kit-four-planes-for-hybrid-woodworking/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.wwgoa.com/article/hand-plane-starter-kit-four-planes-for-hybrid-woodworking/&lt;/a&gt; . I bought a 5 1/2 as my second plane and love it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="853" LastActivityDate="2018-07-23T13:41:09.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7562" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-23T14:42:17.050" Score="0" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an oak coffee table with several coats of polyurethane.  It has cured for several months.  When I rubbed out the finish I can still see surface scratches in bright sunlight.  How do I get rid of these scratches?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2238" LastActivityDate="2018-07-23T20:55:07.900" Title="Polyurethane finish" Tags="|finishing|tabletop|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7560" CreationDate="2018-07-23T16:12:01.313" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, it doesn't look like your bench has any provision for a deadman.  This would allow you to clamp one end of the board in the face vise and support the other end with the deadman.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aybAN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aybAN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you could make a passable one by bolting some T-track to the underside of your bench top, putting some hex-head lag bolts (to fit the T-track) in the end of a board, and drilling some holes for dowels into it.  This would be my preferred strategy in the long run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another strategy I'd suggest if you just want to get going today is to clamp a handscrew clamp to either end of the board (making sure they're flush with the opposite edge) and then clamp the handscrew clamps to the bench in whatever manner you're used to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QFHWb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QFHWb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2018-07-23T20:36:11.110" LastActivityDate="2018-07-23T20:36:11.110" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7562" CreationDate="2018-07-23T20:55:07.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When I rubbed out the finish I can still see surface scratches in bright sunlight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Polishing is a process of replacing big scratches with small ones, and then replacing those with even smaller ones, and so on. That's why we progress through abrasive sizes: very fine abrasive is too small to remove the scratches from coarse abrasives in a reasonable time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How do I get rid of these scratches?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the scratches are very light, more polishing with fine abrasive. If the scratches seem deep, then it may be that you proceeded to fine abrasives too quickly and you'll have to back up a bit to something less fine in order to remove the scratches, then proceed through the finer grades again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you think the scratches that you're seeing are from the finest abrasive you've used, then you'll need to move on to something even finer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2018-07-23T20:55:07.900" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7560" CreationDate="2018-07-24T03:34:36.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This edge planing clamp can be used if you have a face vice&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BeUUh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BeUUh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;edge planing clamp&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4638" LastActivityDate="2018-07-24T03:34:36.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7543" CreationDate="2018-07-25T01:08:06.970" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have one of the rubber sanding belt cleaners, but I've found compressed air to be just as effective, and most people would have at least a small air compressor in their shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="697" LastActivityDate="2018-07-25T01:08:06.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2852" CreationDate="2018-07-25T20:42:57.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless the piece of wood is a laminated piece, I usually let the sun do the job for me.  Sometimes I find that a good heavy coat of stain hides a lot of flaws in the antique pieces I work on ( cup rings, etc.)  It's just a matter of time before the stain finally dries, but I have found that if I put a piece in the direct sun on a good warm day it will usually dry good in about 3 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5377" LastActivityDate="2018-07-25T20:42:57.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7569" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-25T21:13:02.907" Score="3" ViewCount="548" Body="&lt;p&gt;What could this white deposit be in this little bottle of Tung oil? Does this affect the oil? Should I take any measure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eurdb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eurdb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastActivityDate="2020-05-01T15:08:28.740" Title="White deposit in tung oil" Tags="|finishing|tung-oil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7570" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-25T23:07:54.697" Score="0" ViewCount="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most circular saws, at least low and mid ends, come with low/medium quality rip cut discs. They work decent when doing rip cuts but show their limits when doing cross cuts. A lot of tear out on some of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are available high quality cross cut blades. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if one would use these for rip cuts too? Would this be a bad thing? (inefficient, dangerous etc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastActivityDate="2018-07-25T23:07:54.697" Title="Why don't we use cross cut discs for all cuts?" Tags="|circular-saw|saw-blade|rip-cut|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2018-07-25T23:44:10.327" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7571" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7574" CreationDate="2018-07-26T01:09:57.047" Score="1" ViewCount="158" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a sled that I want to add a sawdust relief slot to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hLzTbm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hLzTbm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That’s an unsurprising side view. It’s about 24” wide. I want to cut a slot at the red thing. The shape doesn’t really matter as long as one side of is flush with (or beyond) the fence. The size doesn’t really matter either. However, I do &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; want to cut into the bottom of the fence itself, as I use this sled for very thin materials sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel like this is obvious but for some reason I can’t think of an answer: What’s an easy way to cut this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don’t really have any way to get in there with the router.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The fence is too high for me to prop it up and cut a dado on the table saw and also that’s super sketchy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don’t really have any hand saws that can get in there given the 24” width.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The fence is taller than the flat part on my chisels.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can’t remove the fence because it’s glued on to the base.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All I can think of is carefully, slowly, and painfully coming at it with a thick-ish cutting disk on a Dremel. Is there a better way to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fence is plywood, the base is mdf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like I said, this might be obvious, but I’ve been huffing xylene all day so I really have no idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2018-07-26T01:41:48.630" LastActivityDate="2018-07-26T21:10:54.300" Title="Cutting sawdust relief in sled" Tags="|technique|table-saw|tool-selection|cutting|sled|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7571" CreationDate="2018-07-26T09:28:37.327" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have an oscillating tool, the cutters that are part of such kit will do flush cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not use the o-tool, even though I have one, as this particular objective lends itself well to a simple (sharp) wood chisel and mallet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can drive the chisel straight down at the fence edge, along the entire width and return with the chisel held at a slight angle to the base of the sled to remove a clean V-shaped groove. If you require more depth or more width, it is easily adjusted with additional passes. A flat bottom groove is a simple matter of yet a few more passes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2018-07-26T09:28:37.327" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7571" CreationDate="2018-07-26T12:17:47.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two easy ways to do this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can do this easily with a knife alone, or knife and chisel. Basically you set it up like a &quot;first class saw cut&quot; or in Paul sellers terms, a &quot;knife wall&quot; - just deeper than you'd normally go.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key is starting shallow and going progressively deeper as you remove chips. The vertical part of the groove (continuation of the vertical fence line) you cut with a knife. Then come it at an angle for the angled (obviously!) part of the groove - that can be either with the same knife or with a chisel. The chisel will be more solid and easier to control than a knife, but a knife could do it, just perhaps a little sloppier. Then remove the chips.  Scribe and pare, going successively deeper with every pass. You could go all the way through if you wanted, thereby forever eliminating the need for saws ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the fence, then run the panel upside down over the table saw to create a very shallow dado in the right location.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2018-07-26T12:17:47.070" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7571" CreationDate="2018-07-26T16:26:52.160" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a blade out of a hand plane, press the back flat against the fence and run it along the width of the sled several times, creating a vertical cut into the base.  Then come back and use a chisel to create the other side of the notch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately, instead of using the flat side of your chisel against the fence flip it over and index the bevel against the fence.  It's not as big a surface, but with a large chisel it should be easy enough to feel when it's tight against the fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another idea, if you don't have any hand planes, would be to take a blade out of a hacksaw, press it against the fence and work it back and forth.  I think this would be pretty slow though, as the teeth for cutting metal are very fine.  Other possibilities would be a ryoba blade, a reciprocating saw blade, or a jigsaw blade.  I might put a piece of masking tape on the fence to account for saw tooth set and prevent it from being scratched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2018-07-26T16:31:57.767" LastActivityDate="2018-07-26T16:31:57.767" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7569" CreationDate="2018-07-26T16:34:32.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming this is pure raw tung oil* this could be nothing at all to be concerned with, occasional clouding is just something natural to raw oils. But as I say in my Comment above you do generally see it only when the oil gets cold so I don't know why you're seeing it now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think ideally you should try to return this bottle to the shop and get a replacement that isn't cloudy. While you're there look at their stock of this oil and see if some bottles are clear and some are cloudy, which would be perfectly normal variation for a natural product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If getting a replacement is not possible I would try warming the bottle in a bowl of warm water (about the temperature of hot bath water) and seeing if the cloudiness goes away. If the oil does clear I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; you should have nothing to worry about using the oil but I have no experience with this in finishing oils, only in cooking oils where cloudiness is irrelevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Processed oils don't exhibit this problem if it's what I think it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-07-26T16:34:32.453" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7571" CreationDate="2018-07-26T21:10:54.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I can’t remove the fence because it’s glued on to the base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to be the major impediment to getting the job done. &lt;strong&gt;The right solution is to remove the fence.&lt;/strong&gt; The other options are all hacks to get around the apparent immobility of the fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are plenty of ways to remove a glued part. Depending on what kind of glue you used, any of the following can work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A few solid blows from a stout mallet.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Heat.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Solvent.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cutting along the glue line, or right next to it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if the sled doesn't extend behind the fence, then you can put the back of the fence down on your table saw with the bottom of the sled running along the rip fence. Set the blade height to the thickness of the sled fence plus 1/8&quot;, and cut through the glue line. Then just attach the fence to the sled again. The extra 1/8&quot; will give you a shallow 1/8&quot;-wide channel in the sled surface to catch sawdust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go with one of the other methods, you'll need to clean up the mating surfaces before you replace the fence. But the fence and the sled are both wood, and you're a woodworker!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2018-07-26T21:10:54.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3704" CreationDate="2018-07-27T03:11:54.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've wondered this and done some experimentation myself. Shellac is the most beautiful finish, IMO, and non-toxic, natural, has character, etc--so of course I would like to use it. The answer is not so simple. The clear sanding-sealer and &quot;clear&quot; slightly colored shellacs are not good for outdoors. I tried it on my deck and the sanding sealer clouded. However then I used an amber shellac and it looked great, it didn't cloud much and over time flaked off. However I felt it might be too slick for a deck. Then I read that canoe builders use the amber shellac on the bottom of their boats--so yes the darker kind with wax is used in water. I finished a bannister in it and it flaked off after a year or two, but looked good. Most recently I just mixed some amber shellac with linseed oil. It looks good in an antique way but not quite as good as shellac alone perhaps. Old time spar varnish I've heard was made by mixing shellac plus linseed for flexibility. I suspect the linseed was heated to a high (450+?) degrees so that the shellac polymerized. I suspect this because this is how music instrument varnish is made--at that temperature certain changes occur which make it tougher I think. If you're going to try that, make sure you use all adequate precautions and common sense and research about heating hot oil. I didn't heat, I just mixed some tried and true linseed oil with amber shellac.In my imagination there is a perfect outdoor formula with shellac.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5386" LastActivityDate="2018-07-27T03:11:54.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7578" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7579" CreationDate="2018-07-27T19:54:33.537" Score="2" ViewCount="1339" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Europe &amp;amp; the UK a planer / thicknesser is a combination machine which does the jobs of a jointer and a planer (In US terms)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used two kinds of these machines but am unsure whether the feed direction should be different when planing (stock runs agains a fence above the blade) and thicknessing (stock is fed beneath the planer surface on an adjustable bed and rollers press the stock down and feed it through the machine.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the machine I am currently using the manual specifies the feed direction for thicknessing but not planing. I noticed that when planing the blades wanted to grab the stock and move it in the direction of feed. I therefore wondered if the feed direction should be reversed? It is very likely the blades also need replacing as I doubt they have been replaced for several years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The machine is a Rojek MSP310M&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.finewoodworking.com/2007/03/01/msp-310m-jointerplaner-combo-machine-review&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.finewoodworking.com/2007/03/01/msp-310m-jointerplaner-combo-machine-review&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4638" LastActivityDate="2018-12-17T06:37:24.000" Title="Feed direction on a planer/thicknesser" Tags="|technique|jointer|thickness-planer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7578" CreationDate="2018-07-27T21:21:03.530" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll use the US terms &lt;em&gt;jointer&lt;/em&gt; for the top part of that machine and &lt;em&gt;planer&lt;/em&gt; for the bottom part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thickness planers typically have a motorized drive, meaning there's no choice about feed direction (unless you're talking about which end of the board to feed first, which is an interesting but different question).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jointing, in which the work is fed by hand, should be in the same direction relative to cutter rotation, which may be opposite in absolute direction to that of the planer in a jointer/planer combination. This is because the jointer uses the top of the cutter head and the planer uses the bottom. So if you are standing on the side of the machine and feed the planer left to right, you need to feed the jointer right to left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advance of the workpiece should always be &lt;em&gt;opposed&lt;/em&gt; by the rotary path of the cutter. That is, the action of the cutter should be &lt;em&gt;pushing the work back toward you, resisting the feed&lt;/em&gt;. In metalworking, this would be called a &lt;em&gt;conventional&lt;/em&gt; cut (as opposed to a &lt;em&gt;climb&lt;/em&gt; cut).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible there may be edge-case exceptions, perhaps aided by a stop and using very shallow cuts. But in general, climb-cutting on a jointer incurs a high risk of losing control of the workpiece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastEditorUserId="2779" LastEditDate="2018-07-27T21:26:37.490" LastActivityDate="2018-07-27T21:26:37.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7580" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7590" CreationDate="2018-07-28T01:13:27.063" Score="4" ViewCount="523" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a tablet holder. The tablet rests against a piece of plywood, and is surrounded on three sides by hardwood rails. The hard wood rails need to have a two step rabbet, one step for the plywood base, and another step for the tablet itself. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8nc5o.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;See: tablet holder&quot;&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the first iteration of this build, I used a tablesaw to cut the rabbets. My tablesaw has a 3/8&quot; gap around the blade (i.e. no zero clearance insert). Making two rabbets requires four cuts, and making the last cut was particularly difficult because there was not a lot of wood left to ride against the table top and fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am redoing this project for another tablet. How should I go about cutting this stair step pattern? I have a router and a few rabbet bits (some with bearings). Is there a safer and easier way to make this with another tool?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5389" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2018-10-12T05:12:57.010" LastActivityDate="2018-10-12T05:14:55.113" Title="How to cut a double rabbet joint (that looks like two stair steps) for tablet holder?" Tags="|safety|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7580" CreationDate="2018-07-28T15:43:08.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing I would recommend is making a zero clearance insert using plywood and a couple of set screws to properly level the insert in the slot.  Working with small wood profiles increases the safety risk, and you should give yourself every advantage possible to avoid accidents.  I would also look into featherboard fence attachments to help control the boards during the cuts to avoid fingers close to the blade. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This shape can be made on a table saw in two cuts if you have a dado sawblade set.  Some sets can be quite expensive, but others are more reasonably priced and are very usable for a variety of special cutting conditions. One way to make the cuts is to start with a longer board then needed, cut the first dado and then  fasten a temporary filler board to the workpiece with the screws located beyond the ends of the workpiece's final length to resore it to a square corner profile.  That way any holes or other damage resulting from the screws is beyond the ends of your finished piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2018-07-28T15:43:08.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7584" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-29T08:43:20.413" Score="0" ViewCount="702" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a solid oak (dried) table of 4 boards of 180 x 20 x 5 cm. This will stay in my home office in UK so temperature ranging between 18-28 degrees and humidity 40-60%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is going to be a rustic / character table and I am not sure what kind of vertical and horizontal expansion-shrinking to expect. I need go know if I should include some space between planks and also if using screws to fix the tabletop on the metal frame (3 beams) would not risk cracking the wood. How deep should the screws go down? With 5cm thickness I would assume about 3.5mm-4mm should be ok with pilot drilled holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I would probably not mind having even 4-5mm gaps as long I can keep table to planned. &#xA;Potential curbing worries me the most.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;US “translation”: 180 cm is about 6 feet, 5cm is a bit less than 2 inches, 20 cm is 7.8 in inches.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/meseD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/meseD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;solid oak baords for tabletop&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5393" LastEditorUserId="5393" LastEditDate="2018-07-29T16:00:48.657" LastActivityDate="2018-07-29T16:00:48.657" Title="Should I use spacing between boards on a chunky oak table?" Tags="|wood|tabletop|hardwood|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7585" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-29T18:52:21.923" Score="3" ViewCount="2194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I discovered few 10-15 holes on one of my oak plans I use to build a table. How can I assure that there are no worm left alive to ruin my future table. I cannot plane them.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zCcIB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zCcIB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;oak with woodworm signs&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5393" LastEditorUserId="5330" LastEditDate="2018-07-30T14:57:50.203" LastActivityDate="2018-07-31T02:22:30.800" Title="How to be sure that there are no live woodworms in my oak boards?" Tags="|wood|wood-repair|surface-preparation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7585" CreationDate="2018-07-30T03:26:43.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely the bugs are already gone. (Bugs only stick around for a few years* - the holes they leave last forever) If you clean the board up and leave it for a while and see no further evidence of new holes or dust you can be reasonably safe in assuming they have gone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(* See Graphus' comment on possible life spans)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you think they are still alive, then you have three main options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heating&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cooling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pesticides&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Heating&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a big enough oven, or access to a kiln, heating to wood to a moderate temperature (ie about 56°C) will kill pretty much everything inside, very reliably&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cooling&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have access to walk-in freezer, putting the boards in a plastic bag (optional - for humidity) and leaving them in there for several weeks will also kill most bugs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pesticides&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably the most reasonable option available - you can buy pyrethrin spray designed for wood bugs that has a very fine tip applicator that can fit into the holes. Each hole needs to be sprayed. This can be time consuming, but I've found it very effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/liU6Q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/liU6Q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="282" LastEditorUserId="282" LastEditDate="2018-07-31T02:22:30.800" LastActivityDate="2018-07-31T02:22:30.800" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7526" CreationDate="2018-07-30T14:43:41.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Milwaukee tools makes a very tiny bandsaw designed to be held in one hand. It is about 12 inches tall and built for commercial use, to replace hacksaws. The cut capacity is quite small and you will need to make a stand to hold it upright for stationary use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Milwaukee 2429-20 M12&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="453" LastActivityDate="2018-07-30T14:43:41.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7589" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7591" CreationDate="2018-07-30T14:57:22.070" Score="2" ViewCount="345" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a solid oak rustic table from 4 oak beams and I want to know if I should bother to wax boards on the bottom face in order to protect them (like keeping humidity and avoiding woodwork attacks) or should I apply the wax only on the visible areas and keep the rest raw, maybe even not sanded at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: that's the back side.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zCcIB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zCcIB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;oak with woodworm signs&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5393" LastActivityDate="2018-07-30T18:16:19.933" Title="Should I apply wax on all sides of a table when building one to protect it?" Tags="|wood|surface-preparation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7580" CreationDate="2018-07-30T16:20:11.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally when making small moldings you want to do most of the work with the molding still part of a large board.  They very last step should be ripping it off of the board.  That way you can reference the whole board when you're making the profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in this case start with a 6&quot;+ wide board, joint one edge, cut a rabbet by making one cut with the board on the table and one with it on edge against the fence, cut the second rabbet the same way, then rip off the width of the rail from the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2018-10-12T05:14:55.113" LastActivityDate="2018-10-12T05:14:55.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7589" CreationDate="2018-07-30T18:16:19.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No you don't have to bother waxing the bottoms. You can if you want to but it isn't needed, it won't help prevent expansion from humidity (a wax finish is much too thin to provide a seal against moisture) and won't help improve stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you were using a much better moisture-excluding finish like shellac or varnish finishing the underside of tabletops isn't as beneficial as most of us assume. Here's Bob Flexner on the subject, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/finish_both_sides_not_necessary&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Finish Both Sides? Not necessary.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as leaving the other surfaces unsanded, that's up to you. As many others do these days I finish all surfaces about equally, regardless of whether anyone will see them or feel them. Other woodworkers aren't fussy about this and only put the full effort into show surfaces. This may seem lazy to some but there is actually a lot of precedent for this as in the past it was commonplace not only to leave the backs of pieces unfinished they were frequently not even made flat and smooth!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-07-30T18:16:19.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7578" CreationDate="2018-07-30T23:15:19.870" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a similar euro combination machine, a Robland 310. The direction of your piece (and where you stand) will be opposite when using the joiner feature opposed to the planer feature (unless you are able to switch the direction of the motor). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like scanny said, the workpiece should always be opposed to the rotary path of the cutter. If you feel that piece getting away from you as you described, you’re probably on the wrong side of the machine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3050" LastActivityDate="2018-07-30T23:15:19.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7593" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7594" CreationDate="2018-07-31T13:10:57.173" Score="2" ViewCount="604" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to put wood beams on my tall ceilings and I don't have much time to do both a stain AND a finish on the beams. If I just stain the beams, will this be acceptable? Or do I have to coat it with a clear finish as well? Or is there a better solution to stain the wood that will also keep it protected? Unlike furniture, these will not be touched very often, if ever, so I'm not worried about protecting them from dings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: The wood beams will not be solid beams. I will be using solid wood planks and joining them with a special router bit. Also, the temperature that the stain/finish would be exposed to during the drying time may be around 45°F (~7°C). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8rDOW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8rDOW.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EGIuN.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EGIuN.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1172" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2018-07-31T13:34:32.973" LastActivityDate="2018-07-31T16:40:56.853" Title="Is stain an acceptable final finish?" Tags="|finishing|staining|design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7593" CreationDate="2018-07-31T13:53:03.727" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on what you mean by stain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately the finishing world is full of proprietary product names, irregular use of similar/the same words, and to be plain, sometimes deliberately misleading terminology*.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stain conventionally refers to a product that colours the wood and nothing else. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today however many products that use the word stain in the name are coloured finishes (possibly the best known being &quot;gel stain&quot; which is a jellied coloured varnish).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're planning on using one of the latter then yes you can use it as a standalone finish. If you were planning on using the former then no, it's not advisable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also, the temperature that the stain/finish would be exposed to during the drying time may be around 45°F (~7°C). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a bit low for a lot of products used in wood finishing. Many different products quote a minimum figure of 50°F or 10°C during application and when drying, and ideally higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;45°F is not excessively low though, so instead of preventing proper drying it could mean only that you can expect extended drying periods (e.g. 4-5 days instead of 1-2). It's important to note though that some product simply won't dry properly when applied in colder conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So obviously the exact product you eventually go with will make all the difference here — check product literature for guidance and if in any doubt do a test in the finished setting on a scrap of the project wood, and be guided by the results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*The infamous &quot;Tung Oil Finish&quot; is perhaps the best example of this, since it contains no tung oil and never has. Other choice ones include &quot;feed and wax&quot; (wood doesn't need 'feeding'), &quot;Danish oil&quot; (not made from Danish people) and &quot;teak oil&quot; (not made from teak and not specifically intended for finishing only teak).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-07-31T13:53:03.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7593" CreationDate="2018-07-31T16:40:56.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stain is not the same as a finish, so on the surface the answer to your question, &quot;Is stain an acceptable final finish?&quot; is &quot;no.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I would challenge the whole assumption that you need a finish at all here.  As I see it, finishes serve two purposes: to protect the wood (from physical damage, chemical discolorations, and UV) and to alter its appearance (sheen, luster, coloration).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this is in a location where it will never be touched, never have any water or other chemicals on it, and never exposed to the elements I don't see why it would need protection from anything.  And if the stain gets you the look you want there's no need to do anything else to change the appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2018-07-31T16:40:56.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7511" CreationDate="2018-07-31T20:30:17.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could be as simple as buying a Dremel tool(if u need to pick up skill first go practice) find the right Dremel accessory there you go. It might also work with freesmachine if you find the right drill/bit &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Wood_router_jmc_2005_03_12.jpg#mw-jump-to-license&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Wood_router_jmc_2005_03_12.jpg#mw-jump-to-license&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;example&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5398" LastActivityDate="2018-07-31T20:30:17.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="912" CreationDate="2018-07-31T20:33:51.513" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;1 on the charger when fully charged it'll shut down by itself and the other one in the drill. You've Guest it when empty switch the 1=2 2=1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5398" LastActivityDate="2018-07-31T20:33:51.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7598" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-01T11:41:30.790" Score="0" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a solid oak table made our of 4 boards which will have some limited space (1-2mm) in between them and I will be fixing each of these on 3 metal longitudinal bars (2*3 screws for each board).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know which screws should I use and if I should maybe use threaded inserts instead in order to better control the tension and be able to&#xA;unscrew them easily if I want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5393" LastEditorUserId="5393" LastEditDate="2018-08-01T21:20:40.893" LastActivityDate="2018-08-01T21:20:40.893" Title="What kind and size screws should I use to fix a 5.5cm thick oak table?" Tags="|screws|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7599" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-01T13:26:46.723" Score="1" ViewCount="239" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am renovating an old chaise lounge.  The drop down arm was braced and nailed in place.  I would like to find a mechanism for inside the chaise that I could use to move the arm from almost upright to almost flat.  The radius of the arm base and curve of the chaise base is 4&quot; and they move in the same plane.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NB97n.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NB97n.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;chaise base and arm[![base and arm&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NWk10.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NWk10.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;][![[&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;1][1]][inside arm]]&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KKkJM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nEIXE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nEIXE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;chaise base&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5401" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2018-10-27T04:33:54.213" LastActivityDate="2018-10-27T04:33:54.213" Title="Mechanism for old drop arm chaise lounge" Tags="|hinges|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7511" CreationDate="2018-08-01T17:58:50.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cannot see the picture from here so I may be off by 90 degrees. I was surprised how well a good sized gouge or a big sharp chisel can be used to knock off 90% of a corner's radius. What may be blocking the way now may work to steady the side of the gouge. I prefer a gouge since it will have its own curvature to start with. The bevel should be on the outside if you don't have much room. Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5403" LastActivityDate="2018-08-01T17:58:50.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7601" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-02T01:22:23.973" Score="0" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;I didn't make this piece but I believe it has poly on it .&#xA;It's my son's desk. Where his arms rest on the top it seems to have softened the finish, and it's now sticky. Washed it with murphy's and then I washed it with mineral spirits with mimimum improvement. How can I repair the finish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5406" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2018-08-04T20:33:37.493" LastActivityDate="2018-08-04T20:47:04.573" Title="Polyurathane issue" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7602" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-02T10:13:50.623" Score="1" ViewCount="717" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to find a way to keep two oak boards (20 cm wide, 5 cm thick) at the same level as one is a little is a little bit bended/twisted (~ 3-4 mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just by pressing on it is enough to put it position so I guess ~ 80 Kg force was enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually I would use a corner metal piece under the table and screw it but this is under middle of the desk and I would hurt myself on the metal piece. I am afraid that if I put a plain plate of 3 mm it would flex and not do the job. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Somehow I am looking for a reinforced plain (non angled) version of this but I don't know what it would be its correct term to search for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ALoQO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ALoQO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;metal bracket wood fixing angled&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am located in UK, so I would prefer to order it from here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on my measurements its length needs to be between around 30cm by anything between 25 cm - 50 cm would do, as long it would not have and &quot;injury inducing elements&quot; ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photo of the problematic area where the middle support is not long enough to reach the last board. The other supports are long enough, only the middle one is shorter and I need a way to prevent the board from flexing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dw1nX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dw1nX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;oak boards on metal support&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5393" LastEditorUserId="4942" LastEditDate="2018-09-04T03:35:03.033" LastActivityDate="2018-09-11T21:11:21.223" Title="How to keep two boards from a table aligned?" Tags="|fasteners|hardware|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7602" CreationDate="2018-08-02T10:55:48.380" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not certain of the UK terminology, but in the USA, a flat plate used to join boards can be called a wood-to-wood mending plate. They are common in the big-box hardware stores as well as the smaller shops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cq4c0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cq4c0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;mending plate&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image above comes from amazon, although the search returned hundreds of options. Various sizes are available. If you have the tools and skills, you could create a mortise in the wood to place the mending plate at surface level, reducing the chance of a snag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2018-08-02T10:55:48.380" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7604" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7605" CreationDate="2018-08-03T17:53:48.733" Score="1" ViewCount="3534" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if it would be possible to dye black gorilla glue and use it to fill cracks in wood instead of the well known black epoxy method?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why? Because finding right epoxy and dealing with it is much harder than glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Concerns: &#xA;- what dye to use inside the glue to avoid colouring the rest of wood when sanding or waxing it&#xA;- can gorilla glue sanding give decent results for small surfaces? like continuous matte surface?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;- risks of affecting how coloured wax would stain the wood, if glue is black darkening the wood should avoid a high-contrast&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5393" LastActivityDate="2018-08-04T15:31:50.137" Title="Can I black dye gorilla glue and use it to fill cracks in wood instead of black epoxy?" Tags="|finishing|glue|epoxy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7604" CreationDate="2018-08-04T15:31:50.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am wondering if it would be possible to dye black gorilla glue and use it to fill cracks in wood instead of the well known black epoxy method?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No.&lt;/strong&gt; Polyurethane glues foam up as they cure, and the foam isn't particularly strong. If you try to use it to fill cracks, you won't get the hard, solid surface that you get with epoxy, but instead a crappy, brittle foam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Because finding right epoxy and dealing with it is much harder than glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least here in the US, suitable two-part epoxies are readily available in any hardware store or home center. I don't know if that's the case in the UK, but Amazon and other online suppliers also offer many options. Aside from the 10 seconds that mixing the parts requires, I don't think there's any real difference in effort required to use epoxy compared to glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;can gorilla glue sanding give decent results for small surfaces? like continuous matte surface?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try it. Just fill a crack with plain, un-dyed Gorilla Glue as a simple test. I don't think you'll like the results. As I said above, you're not going to get a solid surface because the glue will foam up as it reacts with moisture in the air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gorilla Glue is great stuff -- it's extremely strong, and it works well for outdoor applications where it resists moisture and UV light very well. It's just not good at filling gaps the way epoxy does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2018-08-04T15:31:50.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7601" CreationDate="2018-08-04T20:47:04.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How can I repair the finish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably can't fix the problem short of stripping the old finish and refinishing with something else. That doesn't mean you have to refinish the entire desk, however. With a desk or table it's often not hard to mask off the rest of the piece and refinish just the top. You may even be able to remove the top from the base so that you can work on it without worrying about spilling or dripping stripper, stain, or finish onto the base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2018-08-04T20:47:04.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7608" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-04T21:13:31.230" Score="4" ViewCount="2255" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got a Grizzly g0555lx band saw. The tires are basically new, the blades I have are new but for some reason the blade slips off either to the back or the front of the wheel. I rotate top wheel by hand and adjust the tilt knob till the blade tracks in the center (or as close to center as possible) like you're supposed to and position guide bearings a paper's width away. I lock the tilt knob and turn the saw on and immediately the blade takes off, typically to the front, makes a horrible sound and kinks the brand new blade. I've gone through three blades now and am frankly losing my patience with this thing. I'm using a 3/16&quot; blade. I've tried co-planing the wheels and that seems to make it worse. I've plumbed the top wheel which helps but the blade still takes off. I have the tension set to what the blade requires and still nothing. I've taken the tension and blade off and noticed the top wheel has a little wiggle room in it. Is this the problem? I've tightened the top wheel as much I can and it still has a little play. Either way I could use some help as I've had this basically new saw and haven't been able to even try and cut a piece of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5413" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2018-08-06T01:15:33.190" LastActivityDate="2018-08-06T15:53:11.203" Title="Bandsaw blade comes off no matter what" Tags="|band-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7609" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-04T21:17:41.403" Score="1" ViewCount="1578" Body="&lt;p&gt;My husband has a delta 36-725 table saw. He can’t get square cuts as measured vertically from the table top surface, despite repeated realignment of the blade and fence with a dial indicator. He has also realigned the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He has checked the fence alignment to the blade and the blade to the table top multiple times. He has put a feather board at the edge of the cast iron before the blade to make sure he’s not moving the wood, but the cut is consistently off. The cut is shorter by 1/16” in the middle of the board...starting approximately 1” in from either corner. He changed the blade from a thin kerf to a full kerf blade thinking that maybe the blade had some flexibility in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5414" LastEditorUserId="272" LastEditDate="2018-08-07T10:47:25.053" LastActivityDate="2018-08-09T03:12:03.320" Title="Can't get square cuts vertically on table saw" Tags="|table-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7608" CreationDate="2018-08-06T15:53:11.203" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I lock the tilt knob and turn the saw on and immediately the blade takes off, typically to the front, makes a horrible sound and kinks the brand new blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the blade comes off as soon as you start the machine, it should come off with a lot less drama when you spin the wheels by hand. Don't worry about adjusting the guide bearings yet -- the first step is to get the blade on the saw and keep it there. So move the bearings out of the way, put the blade on the saw, and spin the wheels by hand until you're sure it's tracking consistently in exactly the same place on the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have the tension set to what the blade requires and still nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you know? The scale on the saw typically isn't all that accurate. My first thought when I read your question was that the problem seems like a blade tension issue, so try increasing or decreasing the tension to solve the problem. Again, you want to spin the wheels by hand until you're sure the blade won't move. I know that a good blade doesn't necessarily require a lot of tension to cut straight, but in setting up my own saw I found that using a little more tension helped to keep the blade from coming off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've taken the tension and blade off and noticed the top wheel has a little wiggle room in it. Is this the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably not. The blade tension should be more than enough to eliminate any play in the wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2018-08-06T15:53:11.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7511" CreationDate="2018-08-07T00:02:57.193" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Right, so I'm all for DIY in the shop - always seemed silly to give over lots of cash for something I could whip up...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So start with a Google(or whatever) image search for &quot;radius plane&quot;. There are many designs out there, but many of the cheapo ones share a common design: two upside-down &quot;U&quot; shaped knives held at a long angle to the work inside the body of the plane. Bevel on the knife is on the outside of the &quot;U&quot; if you look at it from the end. Radius sizes vary, I used a 3/16 because my need was to clean for a finish 1/8. You can do this to any size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe you have one in a drawer somewhere? Something a lot of us have but don't use much. If you're already doing what that pic shows, you probably do have one!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made task-specific tools for just your purpose from the knives in these - using an old screwdriver shaft, a dremel grinder stone, and a welder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, abandon the body of the plane entirely. Won't need it, and on mine anyway it never would stay 'set' anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the knives (as made) are meant to be run at an angle while inside the body, the &quot;inner&quot; or &quot;lower&quot; leading tip may interfere when you get to a corner. (Some have the U end at 90 degrees to the length, but mine had the cutting edge sitting at about 20 degrees backbevel with the tips of the U forward of the bottom.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they aren't 90 degrees on the end, use a tiny grinder of some sort (dremel, whatever) to grind off one of the sides of the U such that when looking at it from the side it is offset by roughly 20 degrees from the other side of the U. Re-sharpen that newly ground end to a similar back-bevel as on the remaining part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do the same on the other knife, but taking off the &lt;strong&gt;opposite&lt;/strong&gt; side. You now have a set that lets you do that size radius into opposing corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Snag a couple smaller old and messed up flathead screwdrivers from your junk drawer and grind an angle on the tip - about 45ish degrees or steeper - it's to be used as a draw handle so it needs to set the knife against the work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tack weld the screwdrivers to the knives, such that the centerline of the screwdriver blade is along the center-bottom of the &quot;U&quot;. Lets it stick 'out and up' or 'out and down'from the work, keeping the handle out of the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There ya go - It's a set of handled, draw-cutting, opposed corner knives that will let you rapidly remove the stock to a level that leaves remaining sanding work a fairly minor job. Often it was a single-pull task to clean all but the 'skinny strip of 180 grit' work off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wish I still had them so I could just post a picture, but they're long gone... I've been out of that industry a while now. Ugly looking, but they worked a charm when kept sharp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also had a smattering of old lathe tool &quot;stubs&quot; (too short to use on a lathe anymore) that received similar 'one-leading-tip-backed-off' grinding treatments to allow me to clean larger radius work right into corners by 'rolling' into the corner with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this made enough sense and is helpful, if a tad longwinded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2499" LastActivityDate="2018-08-07T00:02:57.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7609" CreationDate="2018-08-07T04:03:07.167" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;He can’t get square cuts despite repeated realignment of the blade and fence with a dial indicator. He has also realigned the motor and changed out the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing about a table saw is that there really aren't that many ways that it can go wrong. &lt;strong&gt;If&lt;/strong&gt; the blade is 90° to the table when the tilt adjustment is set to 0°, and &lt;strong&gt;if&lt;/strong&gt; the rip fence is straight and parallel to the blade, it should be able to make straight rip cuts with square edges. (A rip cut is when you're cutting along the length of a board, with one edge of the board riding along the rip fence.) If the cuts aren't coming out straight when you're fairly certain that the saw is set up correctly, then the problem might not be the saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's pretty strange that your cuts are coming out narrower in the middle than at the ends. The two most likely reasons for this that I can think of are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;warped stock:&lt;/strong&gt; If you're going to make a straight rip cut, the board you're cutting should have at least one edge that's good and straight. That straight edge has to go up against the fence. If the board is crooked, so that one edge is concave and other convex, or if it otherwise doesn't have a straight edge, then you're not going to get a straight cut. Materials like plywood and MDF are very stable, so those are good choices for testing your saw.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;operator error:&lt;/strong&gt; It's important to keep that straight edge against the fence through the entire cut. Using a featherboard as you described in a comment should help a lot here. Keep an eye on the back end of the rip fence as the cut proceeds and make sure that the board remains tight against the fence there (but don't use a featherboard there, of course). Pushing the board all the way past the blade rather then stopping when the end passes the leading edge may help; if it does, then the blade isn't quite parallel to the fence, and one or the other should be adjusted.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2018-08-09T03:12:03.320" LastActivityDate="2018-08-09T03:12:03.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3820" CreationDate="2018-08-07T11:06:03.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ifyou're uneasy about honing gouges freehand,honing guides for gouges can be purchased (Just Google &quot;gouge honing guide&quot;). However, it is very simple to make one that works very effectively. Here are pictures of the one I made. It is too simple to even bother with instructions. The images should be enough.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TyRXV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TyRXV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Kqyh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Kqyh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gcuzk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gcuzk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GHrwc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GHrwc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e1FvA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e1FvA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I would advise against sharpening one-handed. In the picture,I was holding the camera with the other hand).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5420" LastActivityDate="2018-08-07T11:06:03.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7614" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7615" CreationDate="2018-08-07T14:59:27.193" Score="6" ViewCount="15937" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a circular piece and wood and want to carve a circular 'inset' in the middle - roughly 1-2cm deep (so that there are 'raised' edges all around a 'depressed' middle). What tool would I use to accomplish this? Am I looking at using a dremel? Novice woodworker, so forgive a probably-obvious question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qTytV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qTytV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;very crude illustration of what I mean&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the above, the black section represents the area I would want to cut out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5421" LastEditorUserId="5421" LastEditDate="2018-08-07T19:33:59.160" LastActivityDate="2018-08-08T14:18:55.163" Title="How do I carve an inset circle?" Tags="|technique|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7614" CreationDate="2018-08-07T15:21:56.697" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would do this with a router and straight bit. Of course you would need a router. You don't mention the overall diameter so I am assuming larger than a reasonable drill bit size. You could also dish out the material with hammer and chisel or carving gouges. Depending on size, mounting in a lathe is also an option. Important information is the size of the piece and what tools do you have available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4817" LastActivityDate="2018-08-07T15:21:56.697" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7163" CreationDate="2018-08-08T05:07:21.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's what I did (pictures below):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Went to home depot and purchased: several 1&amp;quot;,2&amp;quot; and a couple 3&amp;quot; plastic paint scrapers (important to use plastic if working on soft wood); 1 quart of their &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/p/Citristrip-1-qt-Safer-Paint-and-Varnish-Stripping-Gel-QCG73801T/100208204&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;softest stripper&lt;/a&gt;; 1 stiff bristle brush (most of the required supplies are shown in the pictures below); various coarseness Scotch Bright Scouring Pads™ (I found something like this one to be best for removal/re-usability: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.zoro.com/scotch-brite-scouring-pad-4-l-x-5-14-w-orange-pk15-746/i/G9181405/feature-product?gclid=CjwKCAjwqarbBRBtEiwArlfEIDMHzx2nXb_1-_Mq5LQIHx8YFp_azVqxUEfNCk-Yd6nOIo2ZalAH5RoClCEQAvD_BwE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;heavy duty scouring pads&lt;/a&gt;); paint thinner to clean brushes/scrapers/scouring pads/etc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Applied full coverage of stripper to the table&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let stripper set for roughly half hour&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use plastic paint scrapers/scouring pads to remove initial &amp;quot;easy&amp;quot; varnish&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use stiff plastic bristle brush to remove anything left after step &lt;code&gt;4&lt;/code&gt;.  This is very useful for the live edge (removes the stripper/varnish but preserves the live edge quite well)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply stripper once more in select spots where first application didn't fully remove the varnish&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat steps &lt;code&gt;3,4&lt;/code&gt; in order&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let slab thoroughly dry (will be a bit moist after the stripper applications)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Re-sand slab starting at 120 up to 400 (1200 in some places such as live edge)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00173CDSQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Watco Danish Oil&lt;/a&gt; as directed on can to make the grain/colors &amp;quot;pop&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let slab sit for minimum 72 hours to dry (I had to use a fan blowing over the table due to my climate at the time that swung between 62F-70F which is technically below the working temperature of the Danish Oil)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply roughly roughly 18 coats of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.minwax.com/wood-products/clear-protective-finishes/wipe-ons/minwax-wipe-on-poly&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;clear gloss wipe on poly from Minwax&lt;/a&gt; (2-3 coats spread over a day at most given the above stated climate)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;couple minutes after application of stripper&lt;/code&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o33gt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o33gt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;couple minutes after application of stripper&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;code&gt;&amp;gt;= 15 minutes after application of stripper&lt;/code&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jTx39.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jTx39.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&amp;gt;= 15 minutes after application of stripper&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;code&gt;after removal of stripper applications&lt;/code&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LV2SK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LV2SK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;after removal of stripper applications&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ivw5h.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ivw5h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;code&gt;after sanding slab past any spots where either varnish coat was not removed completely&lt;/code&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LUSwj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LUSwj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;after sanding slab past any spots where either varnish coat was not removed completely&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;code&gt;after application of Watch Danish Oil&lt;/code&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aoo1v.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aoo1v.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;after application of Watch Danish Oil&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;code&gt;after final application of wipe on poly&lt;/code&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wOOf9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wOOf9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;after final application of wipe on poly&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gS6Dp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gS6Dp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;after final application of wipe on poly&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JfBFp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JfBFp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;after final application of wipe on poly&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4432" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2021-08-10T16:58:38.850" LastActivityDate="2021-08-10T16:58:38.850" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7614" CreationDate="2018-08-08T14:18:55.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use a router and a template or pattern bit. This &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z18jQTy5t90&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video from the Wood Whisperer&lt;/a&gt; shows a similar technique for making bowls using a router, although you would want a straight (pattern) bit rather than the round-nose bit. He hogs out most of the waste in the center with a Forstner bit on the drill press, although you could do the whole thing with a router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this method, you would need to buy or build a circular template of the correct size (the inside diameter of the template would be the same as the diameter of the black area in your sketch). Circular templates are readily available for purchase in smaller sizes, but you may need to make one for your ~12&quot; piece. A sheet of 1/4&quot; plywood / MDF would be perfect, and you can use the router to cut out the circle here as well. Circle-cutting jigs are available for purchase, or you can make one yourself (lots of videos online, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UzRYd77-mnM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here is an example&lt;/a&gt; from April Wilkerson)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastActivityDate="2018-08-08T14:18:55.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7619" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7620" CreationDate="2018-08-09T10:26:10.147" Score="2" ViewCount="518" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a couple of wooden bee hives with metal roofs. We have treated the exterior faces of the hives with raw linseed oil, three coats. It has cured nicely, as far as I can tell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What we're wondering about it is when we should retreat the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any telling signs to look for, like dryness of the surface, or discoloration of the wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there rough estimates for when (vertically placed) outdoors wood should be retreated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This particular example is in Bergen, Norway - lots and lots of rain, quite humid climate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5285" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2018-08-09T13:38:32.110" LastActivityDate="2018-08-13T14:01:34.857" Title="When to retreat linseed oil finished wood placed outdoors in moderate rainy climate" Tags="|refinishing|oiling|outdoor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7619" CreationDate="2018-08-09T13:38:38.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What we're wondering about it is when we should retreat the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic rule is, when it looks like it needs it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a certain period the wood will have started to look a little dry, pale and/or slightly greyish, that's approximately the stage you should apply a fresh coat of oil. If the wood has gone distinctly grey you've waited too long :-) This isn't fatal by any means so there's no need to panic if you skip the recoating one summer, it's mostly a cosmetic issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something to note, you should find that subsequent coats aren't needed as frequently as the first recoat. This is because the slightly degraded surface of the wood is more absorbent so later applications hold more oil, which then lasts better than the initial treatment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are there rough estimates for when (vertically placed) outdoors wood should be retreated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are guidelines given for different climates but they are only rough and you should be guided by the wood itself — your climate and local conditions, the wood in question, even the specific oil you're using*, all play a part in how long the treatment lasts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll find that any localised areas that are protected, e.g. by the overhang of a roof, will have degraded much less than the wood below which is more exposed so won't need recoating as frequently. You may also find that anywhere rainwater can splash back onto the walls will degrade fastest, this normally occurs at the bottom of any wooden wall or door near the ground. With a beehive it may only be noticeable at the front if there's a ledge provided for the bees to land on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes time to apply fresh oil, don't think &quot;one coat good, two coats better&quot;, just apply one coat. It doesn't matter how you apply it, by brush, roller or rag, after a short wait (half an hour or so) &lt;em&gt;wipe any excess from the surface where it hasn't been absorbed&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note: oil finishes are most suited to dry climates&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Straight oil finishes perform less well in damp climates, especially those subject to long periods of rainy weather. Woods treated with oil that stay damp for extended periods are prone to attack by moulds (mildew/fungus) and a dark discolouration can occur, which at worst can turn the wood &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.buffalo-lumber.com/site_assets/images/5554eb8906cf66e37558fbb947483746.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;nearly black&lt;/a&gt;. This problem can really only be prevented by incorporating some anti-fungal agent into the oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Commercial water-repelling penetrating finishes already incorporate a fungicide so are preferable to a raw oil in any wetter setting. However, many also contain a high proportion of solvent which may be a problem for use on a beehive with a resident population of bees. If the hives can be refinished when not currently inhabited this solvent is not a concern however as every trace &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; evaporate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Linseed oil is a natural product and can and does vary. Even different batches from the same producer should be expected to vary slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2018-08-13T14:01:34.857" LastActivityDate="2018-08-13T14:01:34.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7621" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-10T09:20:54.840" Score="0" ViewCount="289" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am quite an amateur when it comes to woodworking, but I am very pragmatic and have done as much research as I can think to do so I don't mess anything up. But I can't really find anything to suggest if this idea holds any water (or any weight at all)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically I am building a wall-mounted shelving unit with half-lap joints that will (hopefully) look something like this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NbQQC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NbQQC.png&quot; alt=&quot;CAD Design&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To attach the splines to the wall I want it to be as sleek as possible, and I came up with the idea to use IKEA's Ekby Bjärnum &#xA;on their side on the top and bottom of each spline. (You can see the pictures below)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now my question is if this will completely compromise the load that the Ekby Bjärnum can hold? IKEA claims that they can hold 15kg, but it wouldn't surprise me if this was a low estimate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wall I'm going to attach to is very sturdy and I'm going to be using (at least) 80mm screws.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wj8MT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wj8MT.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g4yj3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g4yj3.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2018-08-16T13:32:44.020" LastActivityDate="2018-08-16T13:32:44.020" Title="Is this shelving wall mounting idea stupid?" Tags="|strength|weight-capacity|mounting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7621" CreationDate="2018-08-10T11:50:22.830" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that the 15 kg might be for a set of two and that you now have to add the weight of all the shelves. I think 15 kg is low also. I dont think this is a crazy idea overall. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;other things to keep in mind (more aesthetic though) are that the brackets leave the shelf suspended away from the wall by a couple mm, and that the brackets are made for fairly thick wood - 30 mm maybe. If you don't fill the slot, it will look a little strange. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2018-08-10T11:50:22.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7621" CreationDate="2018-08-10T13:48:28.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming your vertical pieces (standards) are on studs, I would drill through them and run a long screw into the stud. It should hide everything.  If you want to use the brackets from Ikea for decoration, you could but I don't think you'd have to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="447" LastActivityDate="2018-08-10T13:48:28.763" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7624" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7700" CreationDate="2018-08-13T09:39:12.257" Score="3" ViewCount="571" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bathroom has a small cupboard/closet built into the wall, and I'd like to put some shelves inside it. Since I don't own the property, I'm thinking of building a free-standing set of shelves that fit exactly into the inside of the closet, so that I don't have to screw anything into the wall and can remove it easily when moving. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The footprint of the inside looks like this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fsGW1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fsGW1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fsGW1.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used the white stone texture for walls. The top and sides are walls, bottom is the part where the door is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The whole thing looks like this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PSClj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PSClj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PSClj.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again white stone is the (inwards facing) walls, and the wood texture is where I want the shelves to be. As you can see, halfway up the opening there is a horizontal board (I think it's meant as a laundry chute, but I don't use it for that), so there are actually two openings into one connected space. Because of this, I won't be able to construct the whole thing and place it in: I'll have to partially construct it and then assemble inside of the cupboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made a sketch combining various ideas I had for a general design&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pzGd7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pzGd7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pzGd7.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming I'll be able to find some kind of 1/4&quot; thick board for the shelves, and 3/8&quot; x 3/8&quot; square beams (this is the largest size I can easily hide behind the natural corners of the cupboard, but I can make it larger). I also left 1/16&quot; space between individual pieces to make it easier to model. The shelves are meant to be about 12&quot; high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, how do I actually attach the shelves to the posts in a way that it won't collapse easily? These will hold a few towels and toilet papers, so the combined load will be &amp;lt;10 lbs, but I'd like to support a more reasonably weight like 20-40 lbs. I am planning to use the cheapest wood I can find at Home Depot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first idea was to use diagonal trusses&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9X4zZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9X4zZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9X4zZ.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This picture shows two variants: I could attach the two top ends to each other with a bracket, with the shelf resting on them. Or I could put a horizontal beam and attach the trusses with L-brackets. The problem with the beam is that I'm not sure how to handle the intersection of the two beams at the corner (not shown here) - for example, if I use L-brackets, wouldn't the screws from the two edges bump into each other? Also, I'm worried cutting the diagonal corners will be challenging, since I don't have much equipment (I don't have a mitre box, so I'd be freehanding a dremel). In this version, the vertical posts would probably be single uninterrupted ~24&quot; long pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another idea I had was this diagonal beam assembly under the shelf&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PkX86.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PkX86.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PkX86.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would attach the two cross beams with T-brackets, and the ends of the beams would rest on top of the posts, I can put a dowel to keep the post from falling inwards. This should brace it enough and also support the shelf. I would still have to cut diagonal corners, but for this it doesn't have to be very precise and I could simply lay the crossbeams on the shelf itself and use it as a template/guide. I can't tell if this is actually a realistic construction, though. In this case the posts would actually be two pieces, so this would essentially be two separate single shelves stacked on top of each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose another option is to just use back and side boards like in a freestanding shelf. That would probably be the easiest and most sturdy option, but I feel like since I'll be snug against 3 walls here, I might as well save some material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best solution in this case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5443" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2018-09-05T18:29:59.007" LastActivityDate="2018-09-05T18:29:59.007" Title="Shelves inside cupboard, how to attach to legs?" Tags="|joinery|wood|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7624" CreationDate="2018-08-13T13:28:41.357" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cut the legs to the desired height.  Attach the legs to the inside of the cabinet with double sided tape.  Set the shelf on top of the legs.  Repeat if you have additional shelves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are various grades of double sided tape.  I use a tape similar to Spectape ST501, available at Amazon and woodworking stores.  It is plenty strong, and cleans up easily with mineral spirits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2018-08-13T13:28:41.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7624" CreationDate="2018-08-13T15:14:46.667" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an alternative, instead of legs why not use solid plywood vertical panels at the two sides that extend from the back to at least the depth of the left side recess. You could then apply the stone texture to the vertical panels making the supports nearly invisible. If you - pre-drill the the shelves and legs you can easily screw the shelves to the legs with a screw driver once they are in place. Also I would recommend 1/2&quot; plywood minimum to span the width of the shelf. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2018-08-13T15:14:46.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7628" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7634" CreationDate="2018-08-14T20:10:18.050" Score="2" ViewCount="6258" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m pretty terrible with a paint brush and have been practicing veneering.  I just tried a foam 4” roller and it worked well... so far.  I wonder if these are one time use or if they would “flake” off?  In all my searching no one recommends this method.  Menards doesn’t have glue rollers...  so I’m working with what I got &#xA;Is it okay for me to use a foam roller to spread contact cement for veneering?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2925" LastActivityDate="2018-08-15T10:10:21.333" Title="Can I use a foam roller to spread contact cement for veneering" Tags="|finishing|veneer|gluing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7629" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-14T22:00:29.857" Score="4" ViewCount="1974" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you use a jointer, using the fence, to plane all four sides of a wood piece, into four, plane, square and parallel to each other? I mean each side square to the adjacent and all sides parallel to non-adjacent sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you really need a thickness planer for this or using the square fence on the jointer would be enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastActivityDate="2018-08-14T23:31:36.447" Title="Joint all sides square?" Tags="|technique|plane|jointer|thickness-planer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7630" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7633" CreationDate="2018-08-14T23:14:04.093" Score="3" ViewCount="832" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently inherited a Craftsman model 397 bench grinder that runs and is in reasonable shape. Here's an image of the grinder with the wheels and guards removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xOibe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xOibe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to start using it for grinding chisels, plane blades and woodturning tools with most of my interest in the woodturning tools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main question is whether anyone has had success mounting CBN (cubic boron nitride) wheels on this older grinder? Do you think it's possible? The current wheels are 7&quot; and the grinder's got a 1/2&quot; arbor. I haven't seen many offerings for 7&quot; CBN. Do you think I could mount 6&quot; CBNs and have this configuration work for grinding gouges, etc.? I'd prefer a wider CBN wheel (say 1.5&quot;) but it looks like I'd need to take the guards off on at least the outsides to accomodate the wider wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The grinder runs in the 3500RPM range, but from what I've read, it's possible to patiently grind especially on CBN so as to not overheat the tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="853" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2018-08-16T05:41:07.423" LastActivityDate="2019-01-09T15:10:20.300" Title="Adapting Old Craftsman Bench Grinder for CBN Wheels?" Tags="|tools|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7629" CreationDate="2018-08-14T23:31:36.447" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you cannot.  This will make the board square, but it will NOT ensure it doesn't taper.  With the jointer you can only make each corner square.  You can't make the opposing faces parallel with each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, imagine you're milling a board that tapers from 10&quot; wide at one end to 5&quot; wide at the other.  You'll start by face jointing, then joint one edge.  When you go to joint the second edge the board will rest on the infeed table, but the first edge you jointed will not be parallel with the table.  One corner will be 5&quot; from the table, and the other will be 10&quot; from the table.  If you make full passes you'll remove material evenly until the second edge is straight, but it still won't be parallel with the first edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2018-08-14T23:31:36.447" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7632" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-15T09:04:34.890" Score="1" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently started to work with the bandsaw. the problem is the cutting line moves/bends after 2-3 inches. what is the problem and please help to fix that ?! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fq445.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a0jxm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a0jxm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nc2YJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nc2YJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2913" LastActivityDate="2018-08-15T14:03:00.043" Title="Setup bandsaw for straight cut" Tags="|cutting|band-saw|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2018-08-16T13:32:05.410" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7630" CreationDate="2018-08-15T10:08:48.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do you think it's possible? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory at least, yes. Older grinders have been updated with later, more modern, wheels constantly through the years as improvements in abrasives have been made and it's not uncommon to see pics of grinders from the 50s and even earlier sporting brand-new wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CBN is just one of a succession of upgrades offered since these old grinders were first put into service. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do you think I could mount 6&quot; CBNs &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a rule of thumb you can mount a smaller wheel than standard to a grinder — all conventional wheels wear down over time so at some point in their lives they will be a smaller diameter than when bought. There's no difference to starting with a wheel of this size. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously this does presuppose that the wheel fits, both in terms of arbor diameter&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; and the thickness of the wheel — over-thick wheels can be a problem, both as to mounting on a shorter arbor and whether they will fit within the guard. As you've already identified at least part of your guards may have to be removed to fit a 1.5&quot; CBN wheel you're aware you may have to run the wheel sans guard, so do be sure to &lt;em&gt;wear eye protection EVERY TIME you grind&lt;/em&gt; as a bare minimum of safety precautions&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You might be putting lipstick on a pig&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;CBN wheels are a definite upgrade to any grinder they can be fitted to, but to use them to their full potential the grinder should be a certain minimum quality, i.e. it has to run true enough that there's almost no vibration. As you have an old Craftsman there's some chance that's not the case, so you may want to test how smoothly it is running before shelling out for one or more CBN wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can check this by running it with the current wheels removed and if the bearings are in good shape and the arbors are straight it should run very quietly indeed. Should you find the bearings are worn they'll be a common part and are inexpensively bought and easily fitted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;so as to not overheat the tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're probably already aware of this but in case not, your woodturning tools are likely HSS (high-speed steel) at minimum and as such you don't generally have to worry about overheating when grinding. HSS can literally get to red heat without going soft or being otherwise adversely affected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;Oooo shiny.&quot; or really needed?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Of course CBN wheels have other advantages in addition to their cooler running but if this is the primary reason you're interested in getting one you should bear the above in mind. Many full-time turners and busy amateurs have not made the jump to CBN so it's not universally considered a must-have even for those who must grind frequently nearly every day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to normal chisels and plane irons which you mention you also want it for, for the majority of non-professional users they can easily be considered overkill. For bench tools, most non-pros have to form or reshape bevels so infrequently — if at all, I've never done either on new tools — that using more conventional wheels which cut much more slowly can't be considered a serious handicap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Wheels with a hole larger than the arbor size can still be fitted successfully using a &lt;em&gt;bushing&lt;/em&gt;, a spacer with a smaller hole at its centre. These can be bought (they're widely available where grinding supplies are sold) or user-made (there are numerous guides to this online).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;em&gt;Eye protection is advisable even when guards are in place.&lt;/em&gt; The reason I'm emphasising this it is that there are so many YouTube videos and woodworker blogs where guards and other safety features are not being used, and even the most basic safety precautions are not being followed. Regardless of whether this is just for photographic purposes it's still helping to develop a lack of awareness of fundamental safety practices among new woodworkers who learn primarily or wholly using the Internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-08-15T10:08:48.853" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7628" CreationDate="2018-08-15T10:10:21.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can certainly use a roller to apply contact cement, but often this is done using a solid roller (usually a hard rubbery material of some kind), not a foam or short-nap roller because of the difficulty or impossibility of removing the residue of the adhesive from a paint roller. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note there are various types of contact cement however, some are waterbased so presumably can be easily cleaned from paint rollers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alternate application tool&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can apply contact cements using spreaders, at the most basic this can be an old bank card or credit card, others use plastic wallpaper spreaders (used for working out bubbles), putty knives (with the corners rounded off) and even improvised tools made from the plastic laminate they're using the contact adhesive to stick down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-08-15T10:10:21.333" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7635" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-15T13:30:14.387" Score="1" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to decorate a cabinet with metalwork, but I can't search for this item of metalwork because I have no idea what it's called.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like a brass boob and nipple (sorry, but it does) and is found on a lot of Indian furniture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8SpUS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8SpUS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what it's called? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you know where I might source such an item?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5459" LastActivityDate="2018-08-15T13:30:14.387" Title="What is the name of this metalwork for decorating furniture?" Tags="|furniture|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7637" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-15T18:31:27.743" Score="0" ViewCount="122" Body="&lt;p&gt;A local box store called Woodcraft had some pretty rough cut Ebony out for sale at $80/board foot. I haven't researched it much and don't know if this is a good price, but I got enough to turn a small bowl. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In doing some research, I found this (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.trendhim.co.uk/classic-ebony-wood-shaving-bowl-p.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.trendhim.co.uk/classic-ebony-wood-shaving-bowl-p.html&lt;/a&gt;) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize there are economies of scale, but it seems odd to me that a finished product that came from, let's say 1/3 bf (~$26 in raw material) would be priced at 29 British pounds as a finished product. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only things I can think of is a) wood item markup is smaller than I thought...b) I got hosed on the Ebony price...c) they have better distributors than I...or d) they're not being truthful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about selling some bowls, so the answer to this means a good deal to me for pricing out my items. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5460" LastActivityDate="2018-08-15T22:09:32.873" Title="Did I get hosed on the price for this ebony?" Tags="|wood-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7637" CreationDate="2018-08-15T22:09:32.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several different species of wood that are marketed as ebony.  Most are categorized as anywhere from endangered to critically endangered and exports are severely restricted if not banned. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some species, such as Macassar Ebony are less threatened, but still vulnerable due to excessive harvesting.  A quick check of prices for various 'ebony type' woods range in price from $70 - $150 /bd ft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2018-08-15T22:09:32.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7639" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-16T20:38:32.003" Score="2" ViewCount="1976" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a terrific salad bowl that I use all the time. Where it was originally joined, on the side, has begun to separate slightly - enough for dressing to seep out. I need advice on which food safety adhesive to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5462" LastActivityDate="2018-09-21T07:01:01.697" Title="Salad bowl split?" Tags="|bowl|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6819" CreationDate="2018-08-17T05:59:12.560" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ru2e0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a similar table base that I built a few years ago. The joint you trying to replicate is actually a Japanese joint that is most common in much smaller stock and used to make puzzles called “burr” puzzles... Japanese burr puzzle is where you’ll need to start. Burr puzzles are typically built using square stock, and in multiples of 3 creating this illusion that the 3 pieces of wood are going through each other, because they meet at 90 degrees but you cannot see the joint. some like to think it’s not actually 3 pieces of wood and there is some sort of internal hardware trickery taking place. This table I built is the most basic burr puzzle joint is a 3 piece burr, and from there they move up to 6,9,12.... so forth. You are right that the miter on the legs is a 45, and I believe you’re really close on the bevel at 28. If I can remember the compound miter I used was something like 45 miter and 25.5 bevel...that’s on both ends parallel, so the legs are flat against the glass and the floor. Good luck to you what youre trying to build was originally built to be mentally strenuous and challenging to put together alone... building it is a whole other monster. zooming in on your picture it looks like you have possibly a 12 piece burr puzzle joint you’re trying to build. You are a brave man. hope this helps!!! Your best bet is to just get a bunch of square stock and start practicing your notches. Once you have all the pieces notched, the fun part is putting the puzzle together!!! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5466" LastEditorUserId="5466" LastEditDate="2018-08-17T06:12:22.883" LastActivityDate="2018-08-17T06:12:22.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7641" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7642" CreationDate="2018-08-17T18:30:59.807" Score="0" ViewCount="343" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a rectangular speaker cabinet (basically a box).  Can I use spray lacquer and spray all sides at once?  Otherwise I have to account for a lot of overspray. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2925" LastActivityDate="2018-08-17T19:21:04.890" Title="Spray on Lacquer for Vertical Surface" Tags="|finishing|staining|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7641" CreationDate="2018-08-17T19:21:04.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure. You'll want something to rest one side on while it's drying.  You can buy those triangle things like these:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodcraft.com/products/painters-pyramid-10-pack-new-improved?via=573621f469702d06760016d0%2C5764236869702d3baa0025aa&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.woodcraft.com/products/painters-pyramid-10-pack-new-improved?via=573621f469702d06760016d0%2C5764236869702d3baa0025aa&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;or you could use some scrap plywood squares are drive a screw all the way through it.  This way you you can finish the whole thing and let it dry without resting a side fully one a surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="447" LastActivityDate="2018-08-17T19:21:04.890" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7644" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-19T14:03:48.140" Score="0" ViewCount="2107" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to unwarp a piece of 20 x 20&quot; piece of 1/8&quot; inch thick piece of plywood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I trying wetting one side and weighing it down with weights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/e69r6iecj5farjj/20180820_123605.jpg?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.dropbox.com/s/e69r6iecj5farjj/20180820_123605.jpg?dl=0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4752" LastEditorUserId="4752" LastEditDate="2018-08-20T17:41:12.657" LastActivityDate="2018-08-20T17:41:12.657" Title="Flatten warped plywood" Tags="|plywood|warp|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7645" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13502" CreationDate="2018-08-19T17:24:51.877" Score="6" ViewCount="1418" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don’t have any photos on me so hopefully I can describe this ok. Say I build a box like so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut the four sides.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut dado in bottom of each side, on table saw (I don’t have another good way), which means they extend end-to-end.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Join the four sides with box joints or dovetails, for aesthetics.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now there is a problem. Because the slots in the sides are cut end-to-end, they knock out an exposed piece at the bottom of the corner joints, leaving conspicuous holes where the corners overlap the slots. Also, once the base is in place, the sides of the base are visible through these holes. Because there are dadoes in all four sides, there is no way to cut the joints to hide the holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I avoid this? Is there a trick? A different kind of corner joint? So far the only thing I’ve done is cut plugs to fit in the holes, but then the grain doesn’t match up properly and they still look like a sloppy patch job (which they are).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YysQI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YysQIm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3fUxK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3fUxKm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2018-08-19T17:59:16.933" LastActivityDate="2023-07-06T14:26:41.213" Title="How to hide base dados behind box joint corners" Tags="|technique|joinery|dado|box-joint|dovetail|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7646" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7649" CreationDate="2018-08-19T21:02:32.953" Score="3" ViewCount="673" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a used Stanley 9 1/4 block plane at a flea market. I am noticing that the depth adjustment knob interferes with the lateral adjust lever when it is above about halfway up its threads. This creates a &quot;dead zone&quot; in the depth adjustment where I can't achieve a certain depth adjusting the lever or stepping the blade forward a notch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1kXfm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1kXfm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing the problem is one of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lateral adjustment lever is bent&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Depth adjust knob is wrong part (Mine measures 1.007&quot; diameter)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone familiar with the 9 1/4 (or the similar 9 1/2) block plane help me figure out what's wrong? I don't want to start trying to bend the lever until I can confirm it is the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this is different from &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/6656/problems-adjusting-block-plane&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; because the possible depth travel seems correct, I just can't use half the depth adjustment range because of interference with the lateral adjust lever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: Just for fun, here are some shavings it's taking now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tF9VD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tF9VD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;shavings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3824" LastEditorUserId="3824" LastEditDate="2018-08-22T14:55:11.150" LastActivityDate="2018-08-22T14:55:11.150" Title="Stanley 9 1/4 block plane depth adjuster interferes with lateral adjuster" Tags="|plane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7647" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-19T21:55:12.137" Score="0" ViewCount="120" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working in my garage in Wisconsin in August so needless to say it’s super muggy/humid.  I’ve veneered my speaker cabinet and I’m getting ready to stain.  Should I bring in the cabinets and put them down my dehumidifier for a while before I bring them back up to stain?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I’m going to use wipe-on satin poly for my finish after staining.  Should I just aplomb that inside by the dehumidifier or would it be okay to take the cabinets in, have them sit in a dehumidifed area and then take them out for the poly coats? &#xA;What is the overall impact of high humidity on this process? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2925" LastActivityDate="2018-08-19T21:55:12.137" Title="Staining veneer in humid weather" Tags="|finishing|staining|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7646" CreationDate="2018-08-20T00:01:41.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe a plane expert can give you original dimensions, but it looks clear to me this is from the bend that lever would get the first time it fell off the bench to land on that end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The depth adjustment knob looks right based on how it engages the blade depth lever. Even if it wasn't original I'd keep it as I can't imagine a different size working better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll bet they changed the design in following years for exactly this vulnerability to the inevitable occasional fall off the bench (onto hopefully a wood floor :).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2018-08-20T00:01:41.870" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7644" CreationDate="2018-08-20T14:45:30.200" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless this board holds special value to you, any big box store will have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hardboard-Tempered-Common-1-8-in-x-2-ft-x-4-ft-Actual-0-125-in-x-23-75-in-x-47-75-in-7005015/202088786&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;4x8' sheet of 1/8&quot; hardboard for $5-$10&lt;/a&gt;. If they're not too busy they'll cut it while you wait.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if I was determined to work with what I've got, I'd try to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.finehomebuilding.com/2004/07/01/flattening-warped-plywood&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;reverse the warp&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Like the underside of a shriveling leaf, the plywood’s concave side&#xA;  has lost moisture and shrunk. Reversing the warp can be accomplished&#xA;  by adding moisture to this concave side and drying the convex humped&#xA;  side. I use a sponge or sprayer to wet the concave side of the plywood&#xA;  (hot water works best). Then I lay the sheet, moist side down, on a&#xA;  shop floor or a driveway. Now the sun, or the warm interior air, helps&#xA;  to dry out the convex, humped side of the plywood. At the same time,&#xA;  moisture is being absorbed into the concave side. This process works&#xA;  faster than you can imagine, so keep an eye on the material. If it&#xA;  warps the other way, just reverse the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="164" LastActivityDate="2018-08-20T14:45:30.200" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="229" CreationDate="2018-08-20T20:09:16.517" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No one has mentioned your jointer technique.  If the jointer fence is not perfectly 90° then any small deviation get multiplied by the number of boards you have and you get a curve.  The solution to this is NOT to try to get your jointer fence exactly 90° (although close is good).  Instead, lay out your boards how you want them to be glued up, and draw a giant &quot;V&quot; across the table top with a pencil, marking every board. The V should span the entire top. Now flip every other board over.  Now label the top face of each board with an &quot;F&quot;.  Now joint each board with the face labeled &quot;F&quot; towards the fence of the jointer.  Now lay out your boards again, flipping every other board so that you reconstruct the original &quot;V&quot; you drew.  The result is that the deviations from 90° alternate direction, and so cancel one another out, and viola!  Flat top, not a barrel.  If the deviation from 90° is extreme, the clamping pressure might tend to make the boards slip out of plane with one another, and so cauls, as others suggest, are still a good idea.  But honestly, if you're anywhere close to 90° and have true joints you should require minimal clamping pressure and slipping shouldn't be a problem.  YMMV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5475" LastActivityDate="2018-08-20T20:09:16.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7653" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7656" CreationDate="2018-08-21T18:16:49.083" Score="2" ViewCount="599" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hope that this is the right forum for woodworking design critiques. I'm experienced with plywood but this is my first time attempting 'sturdy' furniture. I'd like to make sure it's going to be strong enough to hold up. As it's a Q+A site, the main question is: &lt;strong&gt;Is this design strong enough to function as a regular use dining seat?&lt;/strong&gt; I can separate in to separate questions if appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sourcing reasonably squared lumber is surprisingly difficult but my local depot has what looks like decent planed pine @ 44x69x2400mm that I'm considering using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a few considerations to the bench design:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It needs to be self supporting as I can't attach the frame to the wall. The wall is clad with&#xA;100mm insulation board and I can't drill through to the brickwork. I will certainly put 'noggins' in to keep it held against the wall to stop it rocking. There are walls on the back and both sides.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can only screw in to&#xA;the floorboards but no deeper as there is underfloor heating below&#xA;the floorboards. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've left the bottom open at the front because we&#xA;want to make deep pull-out storage drawers on castors for toy&#xA;storage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm planning on cladding the frame with 12mm birch plywood and using 18mm birch plywood for the top. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm assuming we will seat a max of 4 people on this so worst case ~400kg load spread across it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'll be using 18mm birch ply for the lids / seats. I've allowed for a 34mm overlap on 3 sides of each lid and a slight overhang on the front to easily open the lids. I'll secure with piano hinges at the back and use pistons with soft close for holding the lids open.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'll use pocket hole screws and glue for the joinery&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As I discovered when installing the kitchen cabinets, the floor is far from level, I haven't yet figured out how to compensate for this. The floorboards run from front to back on the window seat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pictures/dimensions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frame:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AjcCo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AjcCo.png&quot; alt=&quot;frame&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frame with cladding and 100mm deep top storage. All cladding made with 12mm birch ply&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F7og2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F7og2.png&quot; alt=&quot;frame with cladding&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frame with cladding and lid:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PEIad.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PEIad.png&quot; alt=&quot;Frame with cladding and lid&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5124" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2019-10-24T21:00:23.800" LastActivityDate="2019-10-24T21:00:23.800" Title="Is this frame design sturdy enough for a window seat?" Tags="|joinery|design|strength|racking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7654" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7657" CreationDate="2018-08-21T23:40:46.780" Score="4" ViewCount="143" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve been drying small green freshly milled boards in my kitchen oven (typical 1/2” x 3” x 12” quatersawn). It’s working well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I never really get repeatable readings out of my moisture meter and don’t trust it in general, so I have been drying until the weight stops appreciably decreasing for awhile. This leaves the boards pretty bone dry after about 20-30 hours in the oven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: After I do this but before I plane the boards, should I leave them sit out in the open air (maybe a week or two) to reabsorb moisture from the air?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I ask is I am not certain if I am &lt;em&gt;over&lt;/em&gt; drying the boards or not, and if I were I’d be concerned that they’d “un-warp” a small amount after I built something with them as they absorbed moisture from the environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastActivityDate="2019-07-08T20:50:50.053" Title="Should I “un-dry” wood for a while after oven drying?" Tags="|wood-drying|milling|moisture|making-lumber|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7639" CreationDate="2018-08-22T06:34:54.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I need advice on which food safety adhesive to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem you face is that no adhesive will bond to wood that has been in contact with oil, and of course most salad dressings contain a lot of oil. You won't be able to just push some glue into the crack and clamp it for a while. Even without the oil problem, it can be difficult to work glue all the way into a crack, so a simple glue repair might not work. The right way to repair this bowl would be to cut the cracked area and glue in a new piece of wood, and then shape the new piece to match the rest of the bowl. People do that kind of thing sometimes (here's an &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/HI1_HYH74h4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;extreme example&lt;/a&gt;), but it'd be a fair amount of work and it might not be what you want if you enjoy the bowl in its current form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think your best bet is to leave the bowl alone and put it to some new use that doesn't require holding liquid: fill it with fruit, use it for nuts around the holidays, collect your spare change, etc. Then splurge a little on a great new salad bowl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And to answer the question that you actually asked, if you need to glue clean edges of wood together with something that's water resistant and food safe, Titebond II and Titebond III are good choices. Titebond III is more water resistant than II, but either one should work well, and both are &lt;a href=&quot;http://titebond.com/product_selector_results.aspx?type=app&amp;amp;id=60775657-ce3c-4ad0-8696-f6cc36d5a9bd&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FDA approved&lt;/a&gt; for &quot;indirect contact&quot; with food (i.e. they're good for things like cutting boards and bowls).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2018-08-22T06:34:54.013" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7653" CreationDate="2018-08-22T12:11:54.767" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In terms of compression strength, I wouldn't want to park a big car on top of it - but even a couple of drunken teenagers jumping up and down should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have commented, racking side-to-side might have been a concern if you didn't have walls either side.  That could easily be addressed by attaching a plywood skin to the back (but it doesn't need to be 12mm; 4mm would probably be enough if it is thoroughly glued to the frame).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Racking front-to-back is a slight concern - I would probably make sure some of the frames had a plywood skin (perhaps three out of the five?).  If you screw to the floor and back wall, this won't be necessary, but personally I would make the seat rigid, and then leave it free-standing.  Doing so will make it much easier to move for cleaning, or refinishing the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1646" LastActivityDate="2018-08-22T12:11:54.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7654" CreationDate="2018-08-22T14:18:12.387" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My question is: After I do this but before I plane the boards, should I leave them sit out in the open air (maybe a week or two) to reabsorb moisture from the air?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's certainly advisable, and other than the wait there's no downside to doing this so you lose nothing but a bit of time if you take this extra step. And kudos for realising already it may take a couple of weeks, that just a day or two wouldn't be enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wood should ideally be stickered during this stage to allow both faces of the boards easy access to air, and if there is concern they might warp put significant weight on top (centred on the stickering, or right over the top with sticks underneath to transfer the load down at the right spots) to help minimise this, possibly prevent it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The reason I ask is I am not certain if I am over drying the boards or not&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably are in some cases. This isn't fatal by any means but it can affect the working characteristics of wood, negatively, and as it also wastes power it may be worth slightly altering your approach and deliberately under-drying, letting the last of the drying take place at ambient temperature (again, stickered and weighted) after the oven has done the lion's share of the work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you want to process the material as quickly as possible, the wood is currently turning out the way you want, and you don't mind having the oven running this long then continue. There is one alternative you might want to think about trying however....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Something else to try: boiling&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This sounds counter-intuitive to say the least (read: seems crazy), &lt;em&gt;boiling&lt;/em&gt; can't actually speed up the &lt;em&gt;drying&lt;/em&gt; of wood, can it? But it can because of where the water is held in green wood and what happens to some of it when boiled&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hard part of this is usually rigging up something that will allow the boiling of pieces of wood of useful dimensions, but as you're currently processing wood of fairly modest size this will be easy enough for you, and boiling is apparently really good at producing usable wood directly from green in a reasonable timeframe&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; without a great expenditure in energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More on this in the links below:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://azwoodturners.org/pages/tips/boiling.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Don’t Crack that Bowl, Make Wood Soup Instead&lt;/a&gt; (PDF)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.canadianwoodworking.com/forum/woodworking/turning/12577-drying-wood-using-boiling-method-data-and-charts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;drying wood using boiling method...data and charts&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; This is related to why you can't soak previously dried wood and get it as wet as it used to be when green.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; It should be expected that the smaller the pieces the faster you can use them, with very small pieces you might be able to start working the wood as soon as it's &lt;a href=&quot;http://users.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/drawknive.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cool enough to handle&lt;/a&gt; ^_^&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-08-22T14:18:12.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2865" CreationDate="2018-08-22T17:51:40.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I shook a tin of wood varnish and the lid blew off and hit me in the face. I had a few scary minutes of vigorously washing varnish out of my eyes and off my skin. If it says don't shake, best do as you're told. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5485" LastActivityDate="2018-08-22T17:51:40.780" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7659" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-23T03:32:42.393" Score="1" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to post 60 signs, mostly going onto wolmanized 4x4 or 4x6 signposts that have been outdoors for a few years. The sign holes are sized for #12 through 5/16 wood screws or lag bolts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I'll be running these down with a ratchet possibly with bit holder.  No AC power for a drill.  Don't have a cordless.  Worried about splitting the 4x4s with these big screws.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there screws or lags of this size that can &quot;self tap&quot; into softwood? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4368" LastActivityDate="2018-08-23T16:14:46.013" Title="Is there a ~#12-5/16 wood screw or lag bolt that can self-tap into wood?" Tags="|fasteners|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7659" CreationDate="2018-08-23T12:47:16.187" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wood screws and lag bolts of this size will self tap and will not split a 4x4. For 60 signs I would look at renting a cordless. Those posts will have dried out and will not be as welcoming to the bolts like a fresh post would be. You're in for a workout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4817" LastActivityDate="2018-08-23T12:47:16.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7659" CreationDate="2018-08-23T16:14:46.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drill pilot holes with a brace and bit.  You'll be much less likely to split the post and you'll have a much easier time driving the fasteners.  I would also lubricate each screw/bolt with some paste wax before driving it to reduce the effort required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I would seriously consider buying or borrowing a cheap cordless impact driver (though I would still drill pilot holes).  Driving 120+ (2 per sign) 5/16 lag bolts by hand doesn't sound very fun at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2018-08-23T16:14:46.013" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7662" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7666" CreationDate="2018-08-23T16:52:14.490" Score="3" ViewCount="598" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a live edge slab of cherry that required some epoxy in a few areas.  This is the first time I've worked with epoxy, and I followed online guides that suggested mixing a small quantity of sanding dust (I got mine from 120 grit paper) in with the epoxy and 205 fast-hardener before application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I gave the epoxy several days to cure and then went at the entire slab with 80 grit sandpaper.  The epoxy sanded nicely, but turned grey-white where it was sanded.  I thought this may just be the coarseness of the paper, but the white haze stayed all the way through 180 grit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did I do something wrong in application of the epoxy, or does this require some special sanding method?  Or will the color return when I apply poly.  I expected the color of the epoxy to be a darker version of the cherry slab itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My next step after sanding to 220 was going to be to hit it with several coats of a water-based polyurethane, then sand/buff that to a perfect gloss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2018-08-24T17:13:03.423" Title="Why is my West Systems epoxy discoloring after sanding" Tags="|epoxy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7662" CreationDate="2018-08-23T18:53:37.040" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you apply the poly the scratches will fill and the cloudiness from the sanding will disappear&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4817" LastActivityDate="2018-08-23T18:53:37.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7664" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7665" CreationDate="2018-08-23T21:14:40.250" Score="5" ViewCount="1748" Body="&lt;p&gt;My local hardwood retailer has a ton of purpleheart for sale. It's gorgeous and I'd love to play with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Ha.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, I've been told, and online research semi-confirms, that this stuff comes from rapidly disappearing rainforests. I don't want to contribute to that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there other, sustainable sources for purpleheart? Is it not, in fact, endangered? Is there any way to verify that what I'm buying didn't involve the destruction of 10,000 different species of Things that can Move?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(TL;DR: How to responsibly buy hardwood without trashing the rest of the world.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3096" LastEditorUserId="3096" LastEditDate="2018-08-24T13:11:52.967" LastActivityDate="2021-12-13T04:02:22.317" Title="Purpleheart sustainability and environmental responsibility" Tags="|hardwood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7664" CreationDate="2018-08-23T22:28:20.020" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Purpleheart is not listed in the CITES Appendices or on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species.  So it would not be generally considered &quot;endangered&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that in the environments where it is found naturally it grows very quickly, so while there is a limited supply it is also easily renewable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2018-08-23T22:28:20.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7662" CreationDate="2018-08-24T13:30:55.803" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the white haze stayed all the way through 180 grit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;180 paper is actually fairly coarse in the grand scheme of things. It is a perfectly fine final sanding grit for wood in most cases (and sometimes you can get away with stopping below this) but for other materials it's quite common to sand far beyond 180-220 grit because the scratches left by paper of this grade are still large enough to be easily seen with the naked eye — if you continued to sand through to 600 grit much of the haze on the epoxy fills would go away as the surface scratches became microscopically fine. And sanding finer and finer, to grits beyond 1200, the epoxy surface would become become incrementally clearer and more glossy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't to suggest you should sand the slab to anything like this level however, because as soon as finish goes on the hazy/clouded appearance will instantly vanish. You can preview this effect by just getting a finger wet with salive and wiping it over one of the fills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note for future readers: depending on the final finish you'll be using and the method of application it may be necessary to sand a little finer than 180-220, and it might take more than one coat for this non-clouded appearance to be permanent, although with some finishes (e.g. undiluted varnish or lacquer) just a single coat is usually enough. In simple terms the thinner the finish (e.g. penetrating finishes like oils) the more you'll benefit from sanding more finely, 400 grit is probably a good minimum to aim for here, and the more coats will be needed for epoxy fills to maintain their clear surface once the finish has dried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following are unrelated to your main query but I wanted to touch on them since you included them in the details of the Question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I followed online guides that suggested mixing a small quantity of sanding dust (I got mine from 120 grit paper)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Couple of things about this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First about quantity, you can add as much or as little as you like but generally you add more than a small amount of powder to use as filler. Structurally you can get away with adding so much the mixture becomes a stiff paste (generally likened to that of peanut butter.... and it can look exactly like peanut butter in colour too). Starting with a fluid epoxy and if using wood dust alone as the filler material the minimum amount that gives a dense (not somewhat transluscent) colour will generally yield a consistency akin to softened butter or maybe mayonnaise&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of the dust itself, generally it's advised to use dust generated by finer paper than 120. 220/240 grit or so is a fairly common choice and somewhere in that region should be considered sort of a minimum&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. Finer dusts give the most uniform 'unspeckly' result as well as the greatest strength, but for simple surface fills outright strength matters little and if you're happy with how the fills look with coarser filler material then don't worry about it&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My next step after sanding to 220 was going to be to hit it with several coats of a water-based polyurethane, then sand/buff that to a perfect gloss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's worth mentioning that this is not the ideal finish type to use to finish off in that way. Waterbased finishes in general can be a little on the soft side (even ones containing polyurethane) and additionally can get gummy when they heat up during buffing operations, but the specific one you pick makes a huge difference here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would advise doing a preliminary finish check before committing to the expensive slab to test out your proposed rubbing out and polishing process using the waterbased poly. Ideally you'd use an offcut of the slab if you have one but use another wood if you have no spare cherry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; The general consitency stages are often given as syrup (unthickened epoxy), then through ketchup, mayonnaise and peanut butter as filler proportion is increased, see more here on the West System site, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.westsystem.com/instruction-2/epoxy-basics/modifying-with-fillers-additives/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Modifying West System Epoxy with Fillers and Additives&lt;/a&gt;. Also worth reading, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.smsdistributors.com/products/mas-epoxies-wood-flour-thickener-for-epoxy-to-make-wood-glues-fillets-and-filling-gaps&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;formulas and tips for MAS Epoxies Wood Flour&lt;/a&gt; on the SMS Distributors site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Where wood dust is used professionally as filler it is often bought in as wood flour, and as you might guess from the name this is &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Many people have experimented with coarser particles for filler, up to and including sawing waste with little flakes and chips of wood that give a distinct speckled or flaky appearance, showing that individual taste is really all that matter here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-08-24T13:30:55.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7662" CreationDate="2018-08-24T17:13:03.423" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since my answer is very similar to the previous couple you've  gotten almost didn't post it but just for additional info you're right in saying that's not a very dense grit necessarily but the lesser the better in fine Woodworking and Polly will fill in a lot of your imperfections as well but just using good quality products like you're using and trying to proper techniques and methods thats all you can do...you're doing everything properly from my experience &amp;amp; what little sense I still have left....with good quality material and a little bit of knowledge so hopefully it all works out well for you all the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5491" LastActivityDate="2018-08-24T17:13:03.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7668" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7671" CreationDate="2018-08-24T19:06:41.787" Score="1" ViewCount="133" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently finished cutting spoons for my toddler son to use, made from &lt;strong&gt;Pinus Sylvestris&lt;/strong&gt;. The results are great. When showing them to my pal, he warned me that pine is toxic, and I should've considered trees toxicity before choosing the wood type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After doing a little research online such as this forum, I found that people do recommmend choosing non-toxic wood varieties. While I understand that this should be the preferred choice, I however am still not entirely convinced whether or not the harm is significant enough to decide not to give these spoons to my son.&#xA;Note that the spoons are properly cleaned, dried, polished, seasoned. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My gut feeling is that the release of toxic elements will be small enough to ignore, but I would like to hear the opinion of someone who has more knowledge on this subject than I do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for your answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5492" LastActivityDate="2018-08-25T18:46:40.083" Title="Spoons from Pinus Sylvestris for my toddler son: is the wood's toxicity significantly harmful?" Tags="|pine|toxicity|carving|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7669" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7670" CreationDate="2018-08-25T15:10:52.600" Score="7" ViewCount="1449" Body="&lt;p&gt;When rough milling boards from a green log, is there a good rule of thumb or something to determine how much thicker I should slice them than my desired target thickness? Does it differ depending on the cut? I want to account for warping during drying but also minimize planing waste. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastActivityDate="2018-09-06T18:57:11.867" Title="How much extra thickness should I leave when rough milling green boards?" Tags="|green-wood|wood-drying|milling|making-lumber|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7669" CreationDate="2018-08-25T16:43:42.447" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you've got a lot to spare, then overdo it. Curves, twists, warps etc will always kill your yield. Flatsawn is apt to be less stable (esp with respect to cupping) than quartersawn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The milling marks you'll get from the sawmill will have an impact, too. Really rough, and you'll want a bit more thickness in the rough size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the final use... short pieces? long? gotta be exactly 3/4&quot;? If you're flexible and don't need long pieces, you might go with a little less thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most good rough lumber is 1/4&quot; over the intended finish thickness. (That's dry, so it started a bit thicker.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, no rule of thumb for you, except to maybe overdo it your first few times and see how it goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2018-08-25T16:43:42.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7668" CreationDate="2018-08-25T18:46:40.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You won't be able to get a definitive answer on this because there isn't a single standard for toxic/safe. Bottom line really is that everyone makes their own determination of acceptable risk, what's safe and what's not (here, as with just about everything). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pines in general &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; contain some known toxic chemical compounds, but this is also true of other woods that are not uncommonly used in products that see direct food contact (although not specifically spoons for infants, which must be an important detail). As you might or might not have discovered already two things of definite concern here are &lt;strong&gt;terpenes&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;hexanal&lt;/strong&gt; which are both unquestionably toxic chemicals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as a very old saying goes &quot;the dose determines the poison&quot;, and this is still a central tenet of toxicology. There are a great number of toxic compounds routinely inhaled and ingested in daily life, and often without ill effects simply because the amounts are too low. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the plus side, pine resins have been eaten for a very long time and an extract from the needles — &quot;pine needle tea&quot; — is still drunk in some places, and both are very likely to contain terpenes and various aldehydes in addition to hexanal. This suggests the toxicity of these compounds, in the levels found in these small quantities, is of little or no concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the negative side, these are spoons for an infant, and we need to go back to &quot;the dose determines the poison&quot;. A great many things that don't make adults and even older children ill are not safe for babies&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other reasons to prefer spoons made from different woods&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Pinus sylvestris&lt;/em&gt; may not be hard enough to wear well. While Scots pine is tougher and more resilient than some other common pines it's still a fairly typical softwood in that is has soft earlywood (the pale stripes in the grain) and harder latewood (the darker stripes). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would prefer to use a wood of even density myself, just to make something that wears more uniformly and predictably. Good choices would be birch, maple (including soft maple, this is plenty hard enough), sycamore in the UK, beech, and apple or other fruitwoods, including hawthorn and blackthorn if available&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line though is that you're the one who has to make the call. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Including honey of all things!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Do note though that if you're not working these woods green (unseasoned) but are instead shaping them after drying some of these are much much harder than the pine!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-08-25T18:46:40.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7674" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-26T17:05:33.897" Score="7" ViewCount="12239" Body="&lt;p&gt;Years ago I used a Bosch table saw for just about everything you could.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just jumped back into woodworking. I bought the mist expensive saw I could find at my Home Depot, a $579 Heavy Duty Skilsaw table saw &lt;a href=&quot;https://tablesaw.skilsaw.com/unbouncepages.com/6a0e251e-be4c-450c-aa21-4badcce7be7c/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://tablesaw.skilsaw.com/unbouncepages.com/6a0e251e-be4c-450c-aa21-4badcce7be7c/index.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to be missing a really basic feature though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dXs58.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to cross cut 1ft off a 10ft 2x4...basically the simplest cut imaginable. The old Bosch let you extend the table so you could support the board over 4ft or so. The Skilsaw lets you extend the table for the fence, but there's no support between the prongs like I had before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I missing something in this table saw? Is there a name for this feature? Is this a common?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: here is an example of what I am thinking of &lt;a href=&quot;https://m.sears.com/craftsman-cm-craftsman-10-in-portable-table-saw/p-00941503000P&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://m.sears.com/craftsman-cm-craftsman-10-in-portable-table-saw/p-00941503000P&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5500" LastEditorUserId="5500" LastEditDate="2018-08-26T17:21:12.377" LastActivityDate="2018-09-03T18:03:45.550" Title="How to cross cut long board on a table saw" Tags="|table-saw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7676" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7701" CreationDate="2018-08-27T16:25:36.333" Score="1" ViewCount="1105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was originally going to use spray lacquer for my speaker cabinets which are essentially large cubes.  However, I've switched to brush on Poly.  Is it possible for me to apply the poly on the vertical surfaces?  If not, when will the poly be dry enough for me to turn the box so the poly surface will be vertical.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: Perhaps 1 side wait 30 minutes, turn and do another side?  At some point with that method, I'll need to rest the box on a poly'd side, how long would that side need to cure before resting the box on it's side while the newly poly'd side dries?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2925" LastActivityDate="2018-09-04T03:04:11.040" Title="Polyurethane a box (vertical sides)" Tags="|finishing|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7676" CreationDate="2018-08-27T17:11:19.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My answer for this (&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/7641/spray-on-lacquer-for-vertical-surface&quot;&gt;Spray on Lacquer for Vertical Surface&lt;/a&gt;) still holds.  However, if you find yourself in a hurry for the finish to dry, I would recommend an alcohol based shellac. Most retail available shellacs are alcohol based.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advantages for this application (where you're not going to be messing with the thing) include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's very easy to apply (you can use a rag)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It dries very quickly (depending on your conditions, as quickly as 15 minutes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It looks good&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can apply another finish on top if you need something harder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, what you're going to want to do is apply a coat and let it dry.  Lightly sand it with fine sandpaper (1200 grit). Apply a light coat.  Rinse, lather, repeat. With the last coat, I'd polish with very fine steel wool before you apply the very last one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't discount shellac as a viable finish.  It's been used for millennia and for strictly indoor applications it still works quite well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="447" LastActivityDate="2018-08-27T17:11:19.430" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7678" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7679" CreationDate="2018-08-27T19:22:54.010" Score="4" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought my very first router, it's a DeWalt DW621 (it has a cord, no batteries). I plugged it in and pressed the on-switch, but I'm getting no response from the router. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did I forget to remove some safety pin, or is this likely an out of box failure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5506" LastActivityDate="2018-08-27T19:37:05.443" Title="Special switch or out of box failure?" Tags="|router|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7678" CreationDate="2018-08-27T19:37:05.443" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not familiar with that specific router, but the &lt;a href=&quot;https://servicenet.dewalt.com/documents/English/Instruction%20Manual/N384544,DW621.pdf#_ga=2.59523885.1608888850.1535398345-56622243.1535398345&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;instruction manual&lt;/a&gt; (page 9) indicates it has a lock-on/lock-off safety feature:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lock-On/Lock-Off Switch (Fig. 7)&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  The lock-on/lock-off &#xA;  switch is located in the&#xA;  handle on the right side.&#xA;  The router is normally&#xA;  locked-off.&#xA;  To start the router, press&#xA;  the thumb lock and&#xA;  squeeze the trigger.&#xA;  To lock the switch on,&#xA;  squeeze the trigger,&#xA;  press the thumb lock&#xA;  forward and release the&#xA;  trigger. To turn the router&#xA;  off, release the switch. If the tool is locked-on, press the trigger&#xA;  again and release the switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you press that thumb lock switch when squeezing the trigger. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastActivityDate="2018-08-27T19:37:05.443" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7674" CreationDate="2018-08-27T23:19:42.357" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The comments on your post are correct, the table saw is not the best tool for this type of cut.  You'd be better off with a miter saw (with material supports), circular saw with square, or hand saw.  In a pinch, even a jig saw would work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if your table saw had the type of support you're talking about it still wouldn't work very well because the support would be at most 3' from the blade, and the center of gravity would be 4' 6&quot; from the blade on the cut you mentioned.  So the board would still be tipping off the machine.  (Also, you'd have the issue of keeping the board square with a relatively small miter gauge.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are determined to use the table saw for this type of operation I'd suggest getting a 3-in-1 outfeed roller stand with a roller, a fixed top, and material handling &quot;ball transfers&quot; on it.  (It will also be useful for the more normal operation on a table saw, ripping long stock, as an outfeed support.)  For crosscutting narrow stock use the flat surface, for wider stock use the roller balls.  For outfeed use the large single roller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m2kvr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m2kvr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example of a 3-in-1 roller stand&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also put an extension fence on your miter gauge or make a crosscut sled if you anticipate doing this often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2018-08-31T16:11:52.887" LastActivityDate="2018-08-31T16:11:52.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7681" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7684" CreationDate="2018-08-28T08:56:44.813" Score="4" ViewCount="12970" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some sheets of very thin plywood (beech). By very thin I mean 1/8 inch (3.00 mm). I need to make some small boxes out of it (movable compartments in drawers etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be a good way to joint such thin plywood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastActivityDate="2018-08-28T16:21:46.727" Title="Joint types for very thin plywood" Tags="|joinery|technique|plywood|boxes|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7681" CreationDate="2018-08-28T09:34:45.857" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;one-eighth inch beech plywood is a common material for laser cutting, specifically for creating custom boxes as you describe. There are extensions to Inkscape for making boxes with tabbed edges, also described as finger joints. You would not need the software to create your boxes, unless you had a laser cutter. You could use the software to make paper templates to assist in the cutting and/or marking of the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image below is of a box made with 6 mm wood, but the concept is the same. Image courtesy of &lt;a href=&quot;https://jamesstokebrand.wordpress.com/2013/05/07/design-comes-together/finger_joint_boxes-219/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;James Stokebrand&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3iWt2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3iWt2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;tabbed box&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One could use a coping saw, a hobby-grade desktop jigsaw or even a table saw to notch the edges of the panels to 1/8&quot; depth spaced apart the proper distance. It would be extremely detailed work and easy to make an error if doing this manually, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A dovetail jig with a small cutter would reduce the possibility of error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2018-08-28T09:34:45.857" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="119" CreationDate="2018-08-28T13:28:17.067" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a walking stick in exactly the above manner.  Several thick coats of polyurethane.  My big mistake was using a high gloss, so that it has that sort of 'fake' look, but its the inside bark of a birch so is quite nice looking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did that about seven to ten years ago and the bark and stick still look in mint condition. Thats heavy use year round so is probably longer than a lot of furniture lasts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5512" LastActivityDate="2018-08-28T13:28:17.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7681" CreationDate="2018-08-28T16:21:46.727" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What would be a good way to joint such thin plywood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simplest joint of all, butt joints, could be sufficient here given the possible sizes of boxes you're making and the use they have to withstand. Particularly if you prep the joining surfaces well* and use an adhesive that can fill gaps (so, not any type of PVA).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PVA &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; yield strong enough joints, I've made some small storage boxes for the workshop in 3mm hardboard glued with PVA that have held up to light/medium use for a number of years, but with plywood you can expect to have some voids and tiny gaps on the edges no matter how carefully you cut and prep the material and they could undermine the strength enough to be an issue, if you don't reinforce the joints in some way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The base adds a lot of strength&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;All boxes can gain strength from their bottom/base, and in thin material you specifically want to add strength by any means available. If glued in (or on) well the base goes a long way towards preventing the box from being able to splay or rack out of square and the shallower the box the greater the effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reinforce further if you need the strength&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can further reinforce the corner joints if you want to err on the side of caution, using one of a number of possible methods. These include &lt;a href=&quot;https://epoxyworks.com/index.php/bonding-with-fillets/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;epoxy fillets&lt;/a&gt;, and triangular or square glue blocks. Do note that these options take up some of the internal space, it can be minimal in the case of epoxy fillets and fairly modest with triangular glue blocks, but the payoff in corner strength would be huge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to not lose any internal space you may also be able to successfully use pinning or dowelling, even in material this thin, but you'd have to be very careful in how you drill the holes, e.g. by drilling with a hand drill and not be tempted to drill too deeply — only 3-4mm would be perfectly adequate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*The surfaces should be freshly worked, within the hour at least, and the ply edges should be as smooth as you can easily make them, if necessary by shooting with a hand plane (my preference) or sanded well to approximately 320 grit/P400.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-08-28T16:21:46.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7669" CreationDate="2018-08-29T02:46:23.507" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe there is just no easy &quot;rule of thumb&quot; when deciding what thicknesses to cut green lumber in an attempt to obtain a certain machined dry  lumber thickness, without a lot of waste. Many factors can be considered for the best results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a log is in a lot of tension, it will be moving while you're trying to cut it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When your desire is a specific finished dimension with minimal waste as you mentioned, you don't want to cut too thick for fear of waste or too thin making it unusable for its purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No one board, cut green, is exactly 1.125&quot; thick its whole length. If that cant is moving around a lot as you try to cut it, due to relieving internal tension, you may need to start out at 1.375&quot; to get that 1.125&quot; at the other end. Length is important. Short logs are very forgiving as Aloysius pointed out above. Long boards of continuous thickness require exceptional logs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every log is different. If it grew on the side of a hill competing for sun light, you may have to cut at 1.50&quot; to get the 1.125&quot; that you're after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mill blades are effected by dirt that may be hidden in the bark. A hardened knot can alter the track of a blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A dull blade can dip or rise causing more than just a machining mark defect to plane out of a board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Operator error is a big problems also. A chunk of bark underneath one end of a cant will get you a board thick on one end and thin on the other. Very wasteful in wood and power to plane it out to a uniform thickness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cant is moving around as you release tensions with every board you cut, causing errors in thickness.  This is especially true when your cant is thin with no mass and you're trying to split it into 2 equal thicknesses. (Splitting hairs) You are likely to end up with two unusable thicknesses for your purpose. Leave those thick for mantles or something. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with Aloysius, err on the side of extra thickness, but not just for cup and grain abnormalities, also operator error rears its ugly head a lot. Especially with band-saw mills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5514" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2018-09-06T18:57:11.867" LastActivityDate="2018-09-06T18:57:11.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7686" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7688" CreationDate="2018-08-29T20:05:57.010" Score="4" ViewCount="280" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on a desk picture frame made of white oak, and I have a hinge and some turn buttons that included brass plated screws in the package. (I am assuming they are plated because they are attracted strongly by magnets. I don't have any exact details about their materials.) I am aware that oak is especially susceptible to the tannins reacting with with iron to produce black staining. I would like the piece to last for a long time so I'd like to get some opinions on the matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be concerned about using inexpensive brass plated screws from a tannin stain perspective? I have no idea what the plating thickness is or whether it would get rubbed off from friction during driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If brass plated is an issue, I would appreciate some advice on alternatives. The alternatives I am aware of are...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Solid brass - Weak/prone to snapping? I am mainly concerned if the recipient has to adjust the turn button pressure and it snaps in the hole, but I guess the threads would already be cut in the wood at that point.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Silicon bronze - Seems tricky to get in #2 3/8&quot; size, and color doesn't match other hardware&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stainless - Color doesn't match other hardware&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3824" LastActivityDate="2018-08-30T01:31:25.250" Title="Are brass plated screws sufficient to avoid black staining in oak? / Alternatives" Tags="|fasteners|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7476" CreationDate="2018-08-29T23:07:10.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your order is correct but you may want to add a step, and there are some caveats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you're using 2x4s I want to assume your wood is either pine or fir, and not above a common grade. Get it out of the lumber store a week or so before you will create your tv stand so it can dry out a bit. The boards can be quite damp on the racks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you're done constructing and sanding it (and cleaning it), you can apply a pre stain conditioner. This can do a few things for your common softwood:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It can reduce the blotchiness of the stain (pigment) as it attaches to the grains of the wood.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It can prevent the stain from being too dark. As the conditioner coats the wood it closes up some of the pores and crevasses that would otherwise accept a lot more pigment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is something not typically mentioned, but if you have some exposed wood filler or putty, the conditioner will help hide it/blend it into the surrounding wood much better. Similar to #2, the conditioner acts as a coating that accepts the pigment more uniformly across the wood surface. Even after sanding, the &quot;grain&quot; of a wood filler is very different from that of your wood.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always remember to use all oil-based products unless you want to deal with extended dry times or are an experienced woodworker. You typically want to use a oil-based conditioner, oil-based stain, and then oil-based finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extra step you may want to consider is a quick dry sealer after your stain but before your finish. Your lumber will be very thirsty and will soak up a lot of your oil or oil-based poly that you finish it with, and it will soak it up non-uniformly. This is because most of your wood will have wide open pores, but some different grain patterns, knots, sap streaks, may have more closed off pores and you will notice a less &quot;shiny&quot; finished look on some of these sections. Any end grain you have exposed will be even more absorbent. An oil-based sealer will seal the wood so that the oil-based finish you apply can uniformly cure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5517" LastActivityDate="2018-08-29T23:07:10.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7686" CreationDate="2018-08-30T01:31:25.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Solid brass screws will be plenty strong enough for all the parts of a picture frame I've ever encountered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key (assuming these are wood screws or sheet-metal screws, not machine screws) is to predrill the right size pilot hole. The pilot hole should be the same size as the root diameter of the screw, the root being the solid part in the middle that's not the threads. If you think of a wood screw as a nail with threads wrapped around it, the root diameter is the diameter of the nail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the root is not exactly some 1/64th of an inch, go to the next 1/64th down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This pilot hole will make turning in the screw much easier and in fact makes its pull-out strength considerably greater.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything plated becomes un-plated, and usually sooner rather than later. No need to count on luck here, just toss the original screws and get some solid brass ones at the hardware store or online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2018-08-30T01:31:25.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6246" CreationDate="2018-08-30T09:36:29.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had an antique blanket chest, mortise and tenon construction, with loose joints. I applied hide glue and clamped the entire thing with bungee cords (I put socks under the metal hooks to prevent damage to the wood) and it worked fine. In another instance, I weighted glued items down with cement blocks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastActivityDate="2018-08-30T09:36:29.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1500" CreationDate="2018-09-01T03:14:40.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I came across this question in search results, and I thought I'd give a little summary of possible solutions for this so that future visitors can benefit from it. If you don't want to remove any material from the wood, you can use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. Wet towels and an iron.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this method, the warped wood is exposed to heat while covered with moist towels or blankets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The towels should be damp but not soaked. The wood should be well covered and placed on a rigid iron bench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Press a steam iron down onto the end of the wood piece moving systematically to the other end. Repeat the process while observing the results. This method is effective for wood that has mild to moderate warping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. Direct sun drying.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method is ideal in instances when it's hot and the sun is shining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The warped wood should be well-covered with a wet towel or blanket. The wood should be placed on a straight rigid surface or bench with the inward curve facing downward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, the wood is put in the sunlight and water is sprinkled on the wrapped towel for good measure. This process may take several days to have an effect. At night, the wood should be stored in a warm environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3. Pressure&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this method, pressure is applied to the wood on the curved area, and care is taken to avoid damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The warped wood should be covered with a wet paper towel on the concave side. Clamp the wood tightly and leave it for about a week while observing the results closely. If the bend is still there, increase the pressure on the curved area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are not complete instructions, but rather general summaries of the processes, which are readily found online. For more details, I recommend checking out the guide on &lt;a href=&quot;https://carveyourcreation.com/how-to-straighten-warped-wood&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Carve Your Creation&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, as others have said, steam bending would likely be the best option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5523" LastActivityDate="2018-09-01T03:14:40.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7692" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7698" CreationDate="2018-09-02T21:21:07.190" Score="2" ViewCount="3989" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can one laminate an MDF panel to plywood and still maintain dimensional stability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm building a 4' x 2.5' desk primarily out of maple (I intend to use either cherry or walnut for trim) and for the top I'd like something thick and heavy. Veneer core plywood is an obvious candidate for the top but it will be neither thick nor heavy enough.  My idea was to laminate the plywood to some MDF and then use hardwood for edge trim. My concern with this is that despite the stability of both the MDF and plywood, laminating them together will cause problems with warping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative would be to build a frame similar to that of a floating shelf and then attach the maple plywood to the top of the frame.  I have no objections to this but it's significantly more work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3720" LastActivityDate="2018-09-03T12:16:33.930" Title="Building a Dimensionally Stable Panel Using MDF and Plywood" Tags="|plywood|mdf|hardwood|laminating|stability|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7492" CreationDate="2018-09-02T22:17:40.850" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Food-safe waxes are available for use on chopping boards etc - have a look in a kitchenware shop.&#xA;They’re safe for contact with food, and safe and not messy on the skin - the one I use has a nice citrus scent which my kids love, it was enough incentive for them to help applying it to a countertop! I believe they don’t stain either, though I’ve not tried applying them to school shirts...!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eating them would provide a laxative effect I’m sure, but presumably no worse than eating wax crayons, candles, or anything else kids have common access to, so don’t overthink that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5264" LastActivityDate="2018-09-02T22:17:40.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7383" CreationDate="2018-09-02T22:44:13.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) seems to be fine for shellac and isn’t as toxic as methanol. It should be freely available anywhere - I got it from a high street chemist in the U.K. years ago, or get it from amazon etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5264" LastActivityDate="2018-09-02T22:44:13.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7692" CreationDate="2018-09-03T00:57:53.957" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you going to be in an environment with large fluctuations of humidity and temperature, perhaps outside the range of comfortable human habitation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is just a gut feeling, based on secondary experiences over time, but the combination you're suggesting has quite a bit going for it. The plywood is, of course, a series of laminations of wood, with grain in various directions. Adding a piece of MDF to this merely provides another layer, grain-less that should not generate distortions in the overall piece. The glue used to bond the wood should be evenly distributed and clamped as per manufacturer's instructions. In so doing, you're providing for the uniform application of force over the entire piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the assembly is going to have extremely high levels of humidity and temperature, followed by dryness and cooler temperatures, I doubt the plywood would hold up on its own, nor the MDF. Even joined, moisture would be your primary enemy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps if this applies, a sealer on the completed project to keep moisture out, but I'm betting that moisture is not a factor in your application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe you can accomplish your objective successfully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2018-09-03T00:57:53.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7696" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-03T07:45:02.187" Score="1" ViewCount="6146" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve got Velux loft windows with a varnished pine wood finish. The Velux instructions recommend stripping and re-varnishing them every 2-4 years:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.velux.com/products/service-and-maintenance/after-sales/service-and-maintenance&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;VELUX roof windows&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, they look perfectly good, there’s no cracking of the finish or anything. Is there any logic in doing this? I’ve never heard of regularly stripping and re-finishing wood except exterior wood (the wood on these is on the interior, not exterior). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5264" LastEditorUserId="5330" LastEditDate="2018-09-04T13:33:47.893" LastActivityDate="2018-09-06T13:06:05.670" Title="Should I strip and re-varnish Velux windows when they still look ok?" Tags="|finishing|wood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7696" CreationDate="2018-09-03T11:43:39.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you're right to be a little sceptical of this suggested refinishing schedule, even with Velux obviously being the expert on how their products hold up in real-world use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general there's absolutely no reason to completely remove finish that is still in good condition. It &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; appropriate to remove and replace finish that has degraded, and it's something that should be done more on furniture that people care about that they want to keep in good condition&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, but excepting pretty excessive amounts of water exposure and/or UV damage (and most of Blighty just doesn't get that much sun!) I would expect the finish Velux use to hold up better than a couple/few of years, as it appears it has in your case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TBH I'd expect at least a 4-5 year service life and 10 certainly seems possible — I've seen older Veluxes, in situ for far longer than just 10 years, that I'm certain had not been refinished but had no obvious degradation of the finish anywhere, in other cases just obvious edge wear from being scraped by the opening rod with the rest looking fine..... from the floor at least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So have a good look at the finish up close so you can see it properly, and if it is in good shape you should be fine doing nothing for the time being.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Another option&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Instead of doing nothing or refinishing completely there is a middle-ground option, topping up the finish. This can be done as a means of extending its useful life, and done with care and discretion you could essentially stave off a complete strip and refinish nearly indefinitely (possibly beyond the service life of the window). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way to do this is just like how exterior varnishing is often refreshed, some sanding followed by application of fresh varnish. In exterior work the sanding would be more extensive and heavier, to remove degraded finish from the surface and reveal cohesive varnish beneath, in this case you'd just be sanding or scuffing very lightly to provide a 'key' to aid adhesion of the new varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's wise to also clean the surface in addition to light scuffing/sanding, especially if the finish might have been exposed to some oil (vital in a kitchen obviously). Warm soapy water is OK for this, sugar soap solution could also be used and will be more effective, but in either case the surface should be very thoroughly rinsed off with clean water afterwards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this kind of top up I would recommend wiping varnish, which doesn't have to be bought as it's just normal oil-based varnish diluted with additional white spirit (US: mineral spirits). Decant a little of your varnish to a clean container, then thin to wiping consistency by diluting approximately&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; 1:1. You're aiming for a pretty thin consistency that will wipe on thinly and easily, and also allow the excess to be easily wiped away after a couple of minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Including on antiques, but that's an argument for another Question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Be guided by the original varnish viscosity and the viscosity you want, don't follow online formulas by rote as all varnishes vary to begin with. And additionally an opened tin of varnish will invariably thicken up slightly during storage so the same varnish will require different amounts of spirits the first time and the fourth time the tin is opened to provide the same working consistency. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-09-03T11:43:39.160" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7692" CreationDate="2018-09-03T12:16:33.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can one laminate an MDF panel to plywood and still maintain dimensional stability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure why would you might have thought that combining two dimensionally stable products would somehow introduce an instability. If you think about plywood itself, this is layers of wood veneers that &lt;em&gt;aren't&lt;/em&gt; dimensionally stable but when glued together you get something that &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; dimensionally stable*. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Veneer core plywood is an obvious candidate for the top but it will be neither thick nor heavy enough. My idea was to laminate the plywood to some MDF and then use hardwood for edge trim. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's perfectly feasible and how many working surfaces are made up these days. My workbenches are all essentially made in this way, the ply hiding underneath MDF in my case, with wood strips all around to provide a durable edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do have to be careful how you go about glueing the ply to the MDF in a lamination like this if you want a good bond, it's not quite as simple as it seems. If you'll be using PVA (white or yellow), or foaming polyurethane adhesive, you want to make sure there's quite a lot of pressure holding the layers together which can be difficult to arrange without recourse to temporarily tacking or screwing the boards together, something you may not be able to do here (depending on the thickness of the veneered ply).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you can't tack the boards together while the glue dries be sure to use enough clamps or very heavy weights to ensure you're firmly pressing the centre of the panel together (clamping the periphery is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; sufficient on larger panels). See more in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/6923/gluing-plywood-together/6924#6924&quot;&gt;Gluing plywood together&lt;/a&gt;. Do also take note of the tip in the last paragraph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Not entirely, but so much so that its movement can usually be ignored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-09-03T12:16:33.930" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7674" CreationDate="2018-09-03T18:03:45.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Am I missing something in this table saw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different saws have different features. Your saw has a lot of very nice features, but an extendable table isn't one of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to look at is the height of the handle on the left side of the saw. From the photo, it looks to be at or nearly at the height of the table. If it's even with the table, you could use it to help support the work to the left of the blade. If the top of the handle is below the table surface, then you could drill holes through it and bolt on a piece to extend it up to table height. You could even use the handle to support a larger table extension that meets the table and extends perhaps a foot beyond the handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to build a crosscut sled with a runners that slide in the miter slots. You could make the sled larger than the table, so that you get more support. And you can also build clamping into the sled, which will help when you don't have as much support as you'd like (though that's still important).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I want to cross cut 1ft off a 10ft 2x4...basically the simplest cut imaginable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cutting a foot off the end of a 10' piece really isn't the domain of any table saw. Even with a large miter gauge and plenty of support, you're basically trying to move a beam laterally while holding only the end, and that's not a recipe for square cuts. With such a large workpiece, you'll be better off keeping the work still and moving the saw. A chop saw or miter saw is good for this, as is a hand-held circular saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2018-09-03T18:03:45.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7624" CreationDate="2018-09-03T19:52:43.120" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wasn't satisfied with the answers I got, so I went back to the drawing board and tried to improve on my own designs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I went to the store I found out that the cheapest wood was actually not a square profile, but a 3/8&quot; by 3/4&quot;, rectangle profile. It turned out that using this, there was a very nice and simple but effective design. Here's an exploded view:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tePla.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tePla.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each pair of legs was connected with a short back-front beam, that was permanently attached, creating 2 U-shapes per shelf.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I attached them with screwed on L-brackets on the inside of the joint, which was a mistake because the screws are very difficult to position precisely - the legs bow inwards a bit as a result. I could have fixed it by adding a second beam between the legs at a lower level, but the shelves held up fine without it and I didn't want to bother.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For one set of legs, I messed up by putting the beam between rather than on top of the legs. It ended being supported solely by the screws of the L-bracket - good enough in my case, but ideally laying the beam on top is more structurally sound.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I was doing this again, I would just use a butt joint by nailing or screwing the beam onto the leg from the top. Butt joints with nails are apparently considered bad, but in this case it's the easiest solution and I don't think the drawbacks would be an issue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The short beams have a notch roughly in the middle where a long crossbeam sits.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The beam is not permanently attached, allowing me to easily assemble this inside the closet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For maximum structural strength, the width of the notch should be such that the beam fits very snug (even requiring light hammering) and the depth should not exceed 50% of the beam. I broke both of these rules because ease of assembly was a higher priority than structural strength.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alignment was made easy by laying the two U-shapes on top of each other, and marking both simultaneously. That way I didn't have to actually measure distance from the end.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Normally these notches are cut by &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/YPbpV0wiZzE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;setting a circular saw to a given depth, making many cuts, and then removing the &quot;wafers&quot; with a chisel&lt;/a&gt;. I had neither the saw nor the chisel, so I used a rotary tool (Dremel 3000) with a wood-cutting disc attachment (EZ544) to gradually whittle it off. It was a bit tedious but tolerable since I only had to do 4.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The shelf itself is cut from a 2' x 1' board according to the footprint of the space, but with a slight gap between its edges and the wall to permit easier assembly.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I used very cheap, thin plywood, because again low cost was a higher priority than structural strength. I cut it so that the grain would go back-front, which caused noticeable bowing under load when laid on top of the two U-shapes only, but the longer crossbeam supports it quite robustly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I cut it inexpertly with a hand saw, which created many jagged splinters along the edge, but these were easily sanded.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The plywood was about 3/16&quot; thick. Absolutely more than enough to support a bunch of towels and toilet paper rolls. I was skeptical of some comments suggesting at least 1/2&quot;, and having actually made it I am pretty convinced it would have been overkill and an unnecessary expense.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, it was a very easy design to make, especially if I overlook the difficulties caused by inappropriate tools and my own inexperience. I made two shelf units and stacked them on top of each other. They ended up being stable (despite the many structural defects I mention above) and sturdy. I was originally planning to ask my wife to spray-paint it white to match the wall, but she didn't want to bother and it looked good enough raw so I left it as it is (the wood is actually a very light pine wood, even though I used a darker color in the pictures for contrast; the wall is plain white even though the picture shows a pattern, for the same reason).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5443" LastEditorUserId="5443" LastEditDate="2018-09-05T02:21:13.390" LastActivityDate="2018-09-05T02:21:13.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7676" CreationDate="2018-09-04T03:04:11.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it possible for me to apply the poly on the vertical surfaces?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, that shouldn't be a problem as long as the finish is thin enough. You can use various thinners with polyurethane, such as mineral spirits. But you shouldn't need to worry about that if you use a product that's meant for wiping or brushing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;when will the poly be dry enough&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drying time will depend on the particular product, the temperature, whether you've added any thinner, and maybe other factors too. As an example, I've got a can of Watco wipe-on poly that says the product will be dry to the touch after two hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2018-09-04T03:04:11.040" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7702" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7710" CreationDate="2018-09-04T13:32:17.317" Score="7" ViewCount="1036" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often read about planes that have adjustable mouths, that you can make smaller for finer shavings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does this work? Isn't the size of the shaving a function of how much the blade protrudes? It makes sense that a large mouth allows larger shavings to pass.. but why would making the mouth smaller help for finer shavings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4895" LastActivityDate="2018-09-05T11:54:41.400" Title="Mouth of a Plane" Tags="|plane|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7703" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7747" CreationDate="2018-09-04T15:01:43.160" Score="1" ViewCount="324" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the final step of finishing my speakers I was putting satin wipe-on poly over my danish oil.  The danish oil sat for 6 days on my walnut paperbacked veneer in my basement with a dehumidifier going.  It was approx 70F degrees and 40 humidity.  I forgot to shake on my second coat of poly and then added a shaken third.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if this is blushing or moisture.  If it's blushing I can get a 'deblusher' but I need to order it and wait.  If it's the cloudy poly then I need to likely strip and re-coat.  If it's cloudy poly is there any way I can avoid that in the future?  Perhaps put a gloss down for the first 2 then a final of satin (super well shaken).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To remove the coat should I just use an orbital with 220 grit (it's on paper backed veneer)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nuIwM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nuIwM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Blushing or Satin&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ASJ6b.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ASJ6b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Blushing or Satin&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2925" LastActivityDate="2018-09-17T18:21:07.587" Title="Moisture Blushing or Inadequately Mixed Satin Wipe-On Poly?" Tags="|finishing|polyurethane|refinishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7702" CreationDate="2018-09-04T16:17:21.220" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wood is not totally rigid.  As the plane iron is cutting the wood it is pulling the wood up.  This force is transferred ahead of the shaving and the material flexes up slightly.  This causes the shaving to get thicker.  In the extreme this can even cause fibers to split out ahead of the blade.  Having a smaller mouth prevents the wood from pulling up into the throat of the plane and keeps the shaving thinner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2018-09-04T16:17:21.220" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7705" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-04T16:57:08.720" Score="4" ViewCount="252" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to build a custom dice tray from wood. Here is my design:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cF8Zq.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cF8Zq.png&quot; alt=&quot;dice tray mock up&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tray features small compartments for holding various polyhedral die, with curved ends so that the die can be scooped out of the compartments easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do I cut these curved blocks?&lt;/strong&gt; They are 1&quot; x 1&quot; x 1&quot; in dimension:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i4HSt.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i4HSt.png&quot; alt=&quot;curved block of wood&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4738" LastActivityDate="2018-09-04T23:56:05.207" Title="How to cut a quarter-pipe shaped block of wood?" Tags="|cutting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7705" CreationDate="2018-09-04T17:28:41.267" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;1&quot; thickness is well within the range of most saws. A bandsaw would be the best bet, followed by a scroll saw (if the wood is relatively soft) and finally a handheld jigsaw. Simply mark the curve and cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally you would cut the profile from a longer piece of wood (so that you have something to hold on to or clamp), and then crosscut to length, with the off-cut being your finished piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2018-09-04T17:28:41.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7705" CreationDate="2018-09-04T22:31:25.510" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't have access to a bandsaw or scroll saw as noted in the excellent previous answer, you can also cut a 2&quot; diameter hole in the piece of wood with a hole saw, then slice away the corners to get four ramps from a single square of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2018-09-04T22:31:25.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7705" CreationDate="2018-09-04T23:56:05.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;These curved blocks can be carved with a router, using a template and a template bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make a template, and screw it onto the end of the work piece. Mount the work piece vertically; use a Workmate, vise, or clamp it to the bench. Remove material 1/4 inch at a time. After removing some of the material, take the template off and finish to the full depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method will result in a better finish than a bandsaw or jigsaw. Template bits are much less expensive than a 2&quot; cove bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5389" LastActivityDate="2018-09-04T23:56:05.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7709" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-05T02:37:31.010" Score="8" ViewCount="279" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a novice working on a design, picking a joint seems a very daunting task. There are many different kinds and it isn't easy to pick the most appropriate one. How to position the different elements, and where the main stress vectors lie is somewhat intuitive, but joints appear to have developed significantly over the centuries and there are many non-obvious innovations that a novice is unlikely to re-invent on his own. Moreover, the &quot;obvious&quot; solutions that would readily occur to a novice (like a butt joint with nails) are often regarded as inappropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you search for &quot;best joints to use&quot;, often the results have a lot of joints that would require specialized tools one might not have access to. Worse, sometimes the best joint is the most complicated one, because it shows off the skill of the carpenter. Obviously not appropriate for someone seeking the path of least resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given a certain set of tools and known structural demands, how does one identify the best joint to use for a project? Is there some kind of flowchart or table?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5443" LastActivityDate="2018-09-06T12:41:37.957" Title="How do you pick a joint?" Tags="|joinery|design|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7702" CreationDate="2018-09-05T11:54:41.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I often read about planes that have adjustable mouths, that you can make smaller for finer shavings.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  It makes sense that a large mouth allows larger shavings to pass.. but why would making the mouth smaller help for finer shavings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A smaller mouth&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; is not to allow the plane to take finer shavings (a plane with a large mouth can take fine shavings just as easily as coarser ones) it's for &lt;em&gt;improving the quality of the planed surface&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how does mouth size control surface quality? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZQoX9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZQoX9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mouth size helps control tearout&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;These images show double-iron planes which complicates the picture slightly but they're the only clear illustrations I could find. The same principle holds for single-iron planes, for which mouth size is of critical importance.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;But mouth size doesn't have to matter&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Mouth size became something of secondary importance with the development of the cap iron..... sometime during the 18th century O_O&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prior to this all planes had single irons and mouth size was directly linked to the quality of the surface you could produce as the above images show. Note: almost all of these planes had neither moveable frogs nor adjustable mouths, it was just that those for producing finer surfaces had narrower mouths than those used for rougher work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the double iron changed all that. The shaving rising up from the cutting edge encountered the front surface of the cap iron and caused it to roll forwards sharply (or 'break', hence the other common name for the cap iron, the chipbreaker) which forces it to lose leverage and prevents it from being able to tear wood out ahead of the advancing plane iron&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use the cap iron or mouth size, not both&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A tight mouth and a close-set cap iron is a recipe for a blocked plane! So if you want to use mouth size you &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; move the cap iron back slightly so as to leave sufficient clearance for the easy passage of the shavings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to use setting of the cap iron to control tearout then a wider mouth doesn't matter much, or at all, so you can adjust the frog to a particular setting (usually right back, so the mouth is fully open) and basically leave it there permanently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Something worth emphasising is that most planes don't have adjustable mouths per se, on the majority of planes the mouth is fixed, but the irons are mounted to a moveable block (the frog) and this can move forward and back to narrow or widen the gap in front of the mouth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; The cap iron must be shaped correctly and positioned properly to provide this effect. A great deal has been written about this so do read up on this further, but much of the key info can be read here in this previous Answer, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5460/hand-plane-controls-bevel-down/5462#5462&quot;&gt;hand plane controls (bevel down)&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-09-05T11:54:41.400" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7709" CreationDate="2018-09-05T12:14:53.773" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most woodworking books will adopt a ground-up approach, teaching a range of traditional joinery techniques to begin with, may illustrate examples of where such joints are used in everyday projects and/or give projects that use some or all of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Joints are generally presented from simplest to most complex, so for example a modern book that's a little simpler will usually have butt joints first, then maybe overlap joints (half-laps), housed joints (rabbets and dados), then mortise-and-tenon joints, with dovetails often left to last. In addition to going up in strength these joints increase in difficulty and complexity so they make a good training progression.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you search for &quot;best joints to use&quot;, often the results have a lot of joints that would require specialized tools one might not have access to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Few joints actually require specialist tools, although it depends on what you define as specialist. As should not be too surprising &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; traditional joints in both Western and Eastern woodworking can be accomplished using just a core set of hand tools — basic layout tools (rule, gauge, pencil, marking knife etc.), one or two saws, a couple of chisels and a hammer or mallet. That's literally it in terms of what's absolutely required, and all the joints listed above (and many more) can be done using only these if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously for producing some joints additional tools are very helpful, e.g. a rebate plane for rebating/rabbeting work, a router for housing joints/dadoes. These additional tools may be thought of as specialist when starting out but they are considered fundamental tools for a fully equipped workshop and would be on a &quot;next tools to get&quot; list after the basics are covered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Given a certain set of tools and known structural demands, how does one identify the best joint to use for a project? Is there some kind of flowchart or table?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There may be such a thing but I don't think you need to hunt for one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good starting point here is the realisation that much joinery is an exercise in over-engineering, which is to say that furniture joints are regularly far stronger than truly needed given that most furniture just sits static almost all of the time. And when it comes to withstanding movement joints are still often stronger than absolutely required. So based on this you can often choose the &lt;em&gt;least&lt;/em&gt; strong option and still end up with a perfectly reasonable result, depending on the requirements obviously. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you can come at this from a completely different direction — if you always pick the strongest suitable joint you'll never need to worry about strength :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most amateur woodworkers building for themselves aren't particularly worried about making stuff that will last and last, and TBH I think this is appropriate. If one or more joints in a project were to fail say 10 years down the line that's not necessarily the end of the world since you might be ready to get rid of the thing at that point anyway. That's not to say some simpler joints can only last that long but until you start to make stuff with the deliberate intention of it enduring (&quot;heirloom pieces&quot;) you probably don't need to worry about what is the best joint for a given location*.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Some joinery is not just about strength&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Some joints are intended to be seen, and have been and continue to be a means for the workman to show off their skill. The most obvious example I'm sure is through dovetails, which even if simple in form can still show great skill if done with precision resulting in a super-clean result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Once you do get to this point you should be knowledgeable enough (through education and experience) to be able to unthinkingly pick a suitable joint, or you'll be building from a plan where each joint is specified and you just stick to the plan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-09-05T12:14:53.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7712" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7714" CreationDate="2018-09-05T12:44:36.443" Score="1" ViewCount="767" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a Hevea chopping board which the manufacturer had annoyingly engraved their logo into, creating a small trap for food particles. It was pretty cheap so I figured I'd keep it and just sand down the logo. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that in doing this I've opened some pores in the surface, which I'm concerned might be able to hide food contaminants. I was wondering if there is a way to close these pores? Did I simply take off the finishing, and what is a food safe way to finish a chopping board? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5532" LastEditorUserId="2524" LastEditDate="2018-09-05T12:50:28.053" LastActivityDate="2018-09-05T19:53:36.597" Title="Pores on the face of an end grain chopping board" Tags="|finishing|end-grain|cutting-board|butcher-block|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7709" CreationDate="2018-09-05T17:03:16.210" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was beginning to do woodwork projects I often selected the joint I had not done before.  To me it has always been about learning something new.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most joints are strong enough for most common applications, the exception being connections that will have higher stress and changes in direction.  Chairs are an excellent example where heavy loads must be transferred between horizontal and vertical directions.  Not only that, they must absorb high lateral loads as people sit or stand or even drag a loaded chair across a floor. All these loads are transferred from the seat or arms to the legs.  The wood, if properly sized can carry the loads along the length of the board, but the corners must translate the loads in a new direction.  This is commonly accomplished by two features in the joints.  First, the creation of recessed connections such as dadoes or mortise and tenon joints use the strength of the wood to restrict the angles of movement of the joint. Second glue contact surface transfers the loads between the pieces at the joint.  The more glued contact area between parts at the joint, the more load the joint will be able to handle.  Consider a drawer in a dresser as an example.  A good dresser could easily be used for 50 or more years with multiple openings daily.  A simple dado joint might eventually fall victim to any flaws in the connection.  The joint of choice in this case is a dovetail which uses the strength of the wood to hold the drawer corners together and a very large glued contact surface to transfer the loads throughout the drawer assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how do you determine which joint is appropriate for any project?  The simplest means for deciding is to look at what experienced woodworkers have done before.  Wood joinery traditions go back millenia and the experience and skills of these craftspeople are all around us.  In each new joint challenge ask yourself what forces will be experienced, what directions the force will come from, how long the finished project must last, how much time do you have to complete the project, and whenever time permits, how much will I learn and how much fun will I have making this joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2018-09-05T17:03:16.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7712" CreationDate="2018-09-05T19:53:36.597" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It seems that in doing this I've opened some pores in the surface, which I'm concerned might be able to hide food contaminants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're thinking of bacteria, it's probably not as great a concern as you might think. There's &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fsis.usda.gov/wps/portal/fsis/topics/food-safety-education/get-answers/food-safety-fact-sheets/safe-food-handling/cutting-boards-and-food-safety&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;reason to believe that wooden cutting boards are as safe or safer&lt;/a&gt; than plastic cutting boards, and that the porosity of wood is actually an advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, while your cutting board probably looked perfectly smooth when you got it home, it's very reason for existing is to meet the sharp edge of a knife. If sanding opened up some pores in the surface, then repeated cutting with a sharp knife would surely do so too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I was wondering if there is a way to close these pores?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The usual thing to do is to oil the board using a food-grade oil that won't turn rancid. Mineral oil is a common choice: it works well, and it's cheap and readily available. Some people like to use beeswax along with the mineral oil. None of this will actually close all the pores, although it may fill them to some degree. Oil or oil and wax will help to condition and protect the board, especially when you wash it in warm soapy water. Re-apply the oil from time to time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2018-09-05T19:53:36.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7716" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-06T02:01:17.530" Score="2" ViewCount="479" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had put wood conditioner on an oak piece I need to stain but I had something come up and now the piece has sat for a few weeks. Can I go ahead and stain it or do I need to repeat the process with the conditioner first? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5535" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2018-10-17T12:52:13.867" LastActivityDate="2018-10-17T12:52:13.867" Title="Should we reapply wood conditioner if a piece has been sitting for a few weeks since the last application?" Tags="|wood|refinishing|surface-preparation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5822" CreationDate="2018-09-06T12:18:37.880" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To keep the piece looking relatively clean it may be advisable to use a box joint to create a strong interconnecting joint. To visualize this just interconnect your hands with your fingers. Cut the pieces to allow for the extra length needed to make the joint. Trim and sand to complete the work. Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5536" LastActivityDate="2018-09-06T12:18:37.880" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7709" CreationDate="2018-09-06T12:41:37.957" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The joint you pick at any time should always have an answer to simple questions like;&#xA;Will it hold the wieght?&#xA;Will the structure be firm?&#xA;How does it interlock with other joints?&#xA;When building sensitive pieces like a &lt;a href=&quot;https://safedoom.com/wheel-chair-ramp-construction-requirements/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wheelchair ramp&lt;/a&gt; ensure you pick just the right one as this can be detrimental.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5537" LastActivityDate="2018-09-06T12:41:37.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7696" CreationDate="2018-09-06T13:06:05.670" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My advice is you revarnish only when you find it necessary. Why? Because many manufacturers give instructions to get themselves covered. The loft windows will always be in good condition for over 5 years unless they are exposed to very harsh conditions.&#xA;The last time I revarnished the Velux loft windows in my &lt;a href=&quot;http://snookerly.com/pool-table-room-sizes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pool table room&lt;/a&gt; was 2 years ago and that was after using them for 8 years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5537" LastActivityDate="2018-09-06T13:06:05.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7716" CreationDate="2018-09-07T10:26:24.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is sold as wood conditioner&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; isn't intended for oak but now that you have used it a long wait after application isn't an issue and you can apply stain as normal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can however expect the colour to end up lighter than if you were staining bare wood because &quot;wood conditioner&quot; or anything applied for a similar purpose work by partially sealing the surface, which limits stain penetration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As your oak has sat around for a while since you last worked on it it would be advisable to dust it well before stain application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Products like this (also sold as &quot;pre-stain conditioner&quot; or &quot;blotch controller&quot;), or heavily diluted shellac, varnish or glue which can be used for the same purpose, are for reducing blotching in species prone to that problem, and oak isn't one of those species. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-09-07T10:26:24.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7721" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-07T12:14:02.847" Score="1" ViewCount="208" Body="&lt;p&gt;A tree surgeon just took down a sycamore that had been growing in my neighbour's garden (and probably underneath my house), and I kept a section of it to use to make a front door sign.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current plan is to create a stencil of the house number, mark it on, and then carve out the number using my Dremel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: once this is done, what's the best way to finish the wood so that I can keep it outside?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: for context, this will be essentially fully exposed to the elements. The idea is to put it next to my doorstep. I'm not too fussed about the colour from light brown to dark brown, so long as it's recognisable as wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second edit: thanks for all the great comments so far, which are suggesting dealing with the drying problem first. However, assuming that I dry it out, what is the best way to finish it for outside?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aQnRQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aQnRQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The section of log&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5539" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2018-09-09T13:54:40.573" Title="How to finish a section of log for outside?" Tags="|finishing|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7722" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7730" CreationDate="2018-09-07T18:17:23.973" Score="2" ViewCount="473" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a Japanese plane a few years ago, and didn't really spend a lot of time researching before I started using and sharpening it. Now that I have a little more time for woodworking again, I unpacked the plane and noticed that the flat part of the back (ura?) of the plane blade is very large compared to 'model' photos online. Additionally, when I try to flatten the back, the left-most and right-most part of the edge doesn't get sharpened, as the back must be a bit convex?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I fix these two issues somehow? While googling I found some references to 'tapping out' the blade but I'm not quite sure how to proceed or whether it can even fix my problem. Ideally I'd like a link to a comprehensive guide or similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a photo of my blade (ignore the sharpie lines).&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ensgV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ensgV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The large and uneven flat part on the back of my blade&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the back of a 'model' blade (&lt;a href=&quot;https://brianholcombewoodworker.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://brianholcombewoodworker.com&lt;/a&gt;).&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HNOPC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HNOPC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5542" LastActivityDate="2018-09-09T13:56:34.327" Title="How can I salvage the ura on my japanese plane blade?" Tags="|hand-tools|plane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1638" CreationDate="2018-09-08T16:09:38.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Caleb is very skeptical but I think there's no real reason why you can't do this as long as the table is thick enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that you are gluing several boards into one big one doesn't matter - the glue bond should be as strong as the wood itself if done correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a large span doesn't matter either, as long as the tabletop is thick enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only real issue is how do you attach the table leg to the table top without the connection being too weak (since it will have to carry a fair amount of bending moment). An apron makes this easy because it is essentially a big gusset. One solution I think would be to just use an actual gusset. Like this (although you can probably make it look nicer than this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dXz4K.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dXz4K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;table with gussets&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another solution might be to just have really really huge table legs like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MnIiW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MnIiW.png&quot; alt=&quot;table without apron&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some reason that table is called the &quot;Apron Dining Table&quot; (??). Anyway for that you'll need to use a load of dowels because you're gluing to end-grain which doesn't really work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally you can use metal, which is what all IKEA desks do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CHJvG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CHJvG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ikea desk leg connection&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure you can find a posh version of that sort of thing somewhere (or make one if you can weld etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4394" LastActivityDate="2018-09-08T16:09:38.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7725" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7728" CreationDate="2018-09-08T18:51:52.583" Score="1" ViewCount="4206" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been asked by my better half to do a full length lid on our window seat. It would be 2400mm long and 580mm deep, 18mm baltic birch plywood which the provider says would weigh approx 22kg. Checking on &lt;a href=&quot;http://theplywood.com/weight&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://theplywood.com/weight&lt;/a&gt; says it would be 16kg so quite a range. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to figure out what kind of hinge/openers would assist with opening it so it could be done 1-handed, but also be able to hold it open and provide a soft close. I'm guessing some form of piston as that's what I've seen on car bonnets (hoods). I'm assuming that the length of the lid would cause an issue as a hinge at either end might not be enough. It may be that this is a terrible idea and I should go back to researching split cushions that would make her happy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5124" LastEditorUserId="5124" LastEditDate="2018-09-11T16:25:32.940" LastActivityDate="2018-09-11T16:25:32.940" Title="What hinges &amp; supports could I use for a long &amp; heavy plywood window seat lid?" Tags="|plywood|hinges|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1500" CreationDate="2018-09-08T21:31:33.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For framing lumber it can be overpowered and fastened to prevent ends from moving back into the twisted position. Particularly southern yellow pine is a sappy warp prone species. I have even had to replace floor joists after they were securely fastened when the members actually warped UP in the center of the span, so powerfully as to separate plywood sheathing where the joint fell on that particular joist. Some trees just won't give up. Quite often a piece of lumber will bow apart when ripped down the middle - showing just how much interior stress is in the piece. I believe this is what causes the twist. I buy a lot of this twisted material for cheap and use it for short members such as truss chords and webs. The twist may still be there but much less of a problem. I've often thought of soaking lumber to &quot;saturation&quot; and trying to re-dry it to a straight configuration but suspect other irregularities would occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5544" LastActivityDate="2018-09-08T21:31:33.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7727" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7863" CreationDate="2018-09-09T00:52:49.543" Score="3" ViewCount="238" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to create a curved coffee table leg - I'll bandsaw the profile, but then I'd like to give the face (the face created by the wood exposed by the bandsaw cut) a long concave recess. It'll look like a less-extreme piece of celery, if that makes sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about doing it with an angle grinder. Any issues/tips/other ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Link: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0cYAHC_S8II&amp;amp;vl=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this sort&lt;/a&gt; of thing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5546" LastEditorUserId="5546" LastEditDate="2018-09-09T02:53:33.757" LastActivityDate="2018-10-16T13:04:48.093" Title="Carving long curved recess" Tags="|technique|carving|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7725" CreationDate="2018-09-09T13:06:15.100" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is actually such a thing as a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/292604936160?chn=ps&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bench Seat Hinge&lt;/a&gt; but the heavy duty ones only seem to take up to 12kg. You might be able to find one that'll take more weight, but my suggestion would be to split the seat lid into two or three sections and hinge them individually (assuming your better half doesn't object to a split lid). If you're going to be upholstering them too that'll also add to the weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The soft close would require a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.co.uk/search?tbm=isch&amp;amp;source=hp&amp;amp;biw=1324&amp;amp;bih=735&amp;amp;q=soft%20down%20support&amp;amp;oq=soft%20down%20support&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Soft Down Support&lt;/a&gt; - there are a number of different options out there, and the support will actually take some of the weight off the hinges and you could then use a pair of more normal cabinet hinges per section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5547" LastActivityDate="2018-09-09T13:06:15.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7721" CreationDate="2018-09-09T13:54:40.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I may have a similar project soon I've put a bit of research into this, and it appears the answer is a Polyurethane seal as mentioned on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-properly-treat-wood-for-your-log-furniture-project&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5547" LastActivityDate="2018-09-09T13:54:40.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7722" CreationDate="2018-09-09T13:56:34.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the flat part of the back (ura?) of the plane blade is very large compared to 'model' photos online. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't really an issue, or at least in practice it doesn't have to be. The purpose of the hollow, the &lt;em&gt;urasuki&lt;/em&gt;, as you know is to reduce the time and effort required in working the flat of the iron during sharpening (and in Japanese irons the steel on this part of the iron is generally very hard indeed, so it takes quite some effort to abrade).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When newly formed the hollow is generally exactly as shown in the 'model' example in the Question, perfectly symmetrical and uniform. But with use the iron has to be specifically maintained for the urasuki to remain this way and (perhaps surprisingly) this was not always done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Numerous vintage and antique irons show ura that are anything but textbook after regular use and wear:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6j4N8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6j4N8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Vintage Japanese irons, non-textbook urasuki&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This topic is covered in this post on Wilbur Pan's site, &lt;a href=&quot;http://giantcypress.net/post/87686184623/the-historic-record&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The historic record&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see the page includes a photo of Toshio Odate who it would appear was not particularly concerned by this, so I don't think you need to be either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Additionally, when I try to flatten the back, the left-most and right-most part of the edge doesn't get sharpened, as the back must be a bit convex?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the extreme left and right of the edge isn't being abraded I think it's telling you that your sharpening media (or the surface that supports it) aren't dead flat and that's what you need to look at. Once it/they are dead flat as you sharpen the middle of the edge will wear away and eventually the two ends of the edges will start to be abraded again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-09-09T13:56:34.327" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7727" CreationDate="2018-09-09T14:52:08.883" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not used a grinder for shaping wood as deeply as your project may require, but have free-form shaped concave surfaces using a disc grinder air tool.  My suggestions include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the leg is straight along its length you might also be able to use a router to block out the cross section profile.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make certain that the leg is securely anchored before applying the grinder.  It will be easy for the grinder to dig in a pull the piece off your bench.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Test drive the grinder on sacrificial pieces before attempting it on your actual wood legs. Odds are you will not get it right the first time (or two, or three, or ...) and you will learn important techniques.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your experimental pieces should be of the same or similar species to your final leg.  Soft woods may not respond to the grinder the same as hard woods. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I would suggest selecting straight grain stock for the legs that is free of knots or burls.  Straight grain might make long grinding strokes more uniform, although with a tool as aggressive as the grinder that may not be an issue.  Knots are much more dense and will be much more work to hand finish.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will need multiple grinding wheels with different grit sizes and you will probably end up doing a great deal of hand sanding to get an acceptable surface for finishing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Safety first, use goggles and face mask.  You may be tempted to remove the guard to get deeper access in the depression.  This is not recommended, however, should you attempt this wear heavy clothing including thick gloves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck and consider adding an answer to the question with your experience including a picture when you are done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2018-09-09T14:52:08.883" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7727" CreationDate="2018-09-10T13:52:02.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I am understanding what you are looking for, I have been able to do this by passing a piece of wood diagonally across the blade of a table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also know that is not the normal way that a table saw is used.  So, to get to your desired depth, make A LOT of passes.  When I do this, I start with the blade so low, that it takes barely any wood off.  After that I raise it, just a bit.  Also each time, I am checking how the wood is looking, the depth of the cove, and of course readjusting my fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to a video describing the process: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.finewoodworking.com/2013/08/01/how-to-cut-coves-on-the-tablesaw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cove Cutting on Table Saw&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5551" LastEditorUserId="5551" LastEditDate="2018-09-10T15:49:36.583" LastActivityDate="2018-09-10T15:49:36.583" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7725" CreationDate="2018-09-10T16:16:40.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had very good luck with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rockler.com/lid-stay-torsion-hinge-lid-support-rustic-bronze&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;torsion hinges&quot;&gt;torsion hinges&lt;/a&gt;.  They hold the lid in place when it's opened and allow you to smoothly close it without slamming.  And they have a minimal visual impact on the piece.  They're slightly bigger than normal hinges, but it's hidden behind the lid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do have to have to know the weight of your lid, but in my experience the range of weights that will work is fairly wide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2018-09-10T17:29:36.793" LastActivityDate="2018-09-10T17:29:36.793" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7174" CreationDate="2018-09-10T16:53:37.487" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Option 1: Buy a new Workmate, if this one lasted 40 years I'm sure the new one will last longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option 2: Mimic what the newer models are doing, which is a sunken through-bolt to hold the work-top in place. See piece #27 here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Se2WA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Se2WA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5547" LastActivityDate="2018-09-10T16:53:37.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7602" CreationDate="2018-09-11T21:11:21.223" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look where you buy construction wood. I don't know what it is called in UK but &quot;bygghandel&quot; in Swedish and a &quot;spikplåt&quot; is sturdy enough. It is a flat piece of steel, with holes in it, to mount wood to wood in floors, walls and roofs. Strong but ugly as hell but who looks under a table?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/evCrZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/evCrZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastActivityDate="2018-09-11T21:11:21.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7727" CreationDate="2018-09-12T19:21:35.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pbs.org/woodwrightsshop/home/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Roy Underhill&lt;/a&gt; when you need him?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sounds like it would call for a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.grizzly.com/products/Japanese-Gouge-1-/G7956&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;gouge chisel&lt;/a&gt; like this one and some hand carving. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://cdn2.grizzly.com/pics/jpeg500/g/g7956-b5d0ad95cd90cfd433b52cc2d6356cb8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://cdn2.grizzly.com/pics/jpeg500/g/g7956-b5d0ad95cd90cfd433b52cc2d6356cb8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://cdn2.grizzly.com/pics/jpeg500/g/g7956-b5d0ad95cd90cfd433b52cc2d6356cb8.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image courtesy of grizzly.com. No specific recommendation, that's just the first image I found on Google&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might not be quite as quick as the angle grinder, but would probably be much more precise and much less likely to accidentally take off too much. On the other hand, by significantly reducing the likelihood of removing &lt;em&gt;too much&lt;/em&gt; material, it might be much quicker in that you most likely won't have to redo any legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2018-09-13T13:06:20.163" LastActivityDate="2018-09-13T13:06:20.163" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7740" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7742" CreationDate="2018-09-14T05:29:54.210" Score="3" ViewCount="576" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a new workbench and bought some maple for the top. I plan to rip the boards into strips and glue the face grains together so that the edge grain is exposed up top. This allows for a very thick tabletop, but I noticed that it also orients the end grain vertically when glueing flat sawn wood. Is that the purpose of the &quot;butcher block&quot; glue up, to simulate and perhaps receive some of the benefits of quarter sawn? Here's &lt;a href=&quot;https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-18461728116681/nexel-30x72x1-75-maple-butcher-block-top-17.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a picture&lt;/a&gt; if I'm not being clear. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/apcia.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/apcia.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4252" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2018-09-14T14:55:50.313" LastActivityDate="2018-09-14T14:55:50.313" Title="Does a &quot;butcher block&quot; glue-up behave like quarter sawn?" Tags="|tabletop|gluing|butcher-block|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7741" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-14T06:00:45.783" Score="1" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;We're restoring some old furniture - sofas with a lot of carving, whole wood book shelves, et al. We've stripped the old varnish and are redoing the job with poly. We did 2 coats of PU sealer and 2 coats of PU Matt, all with a spray gun. Most of the wood's teak stained with walnut, some of it is rose wood, so we're getting a nice dark brown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some reason, when spraying the top coat say onto one side of say the sofa's arms / legs or a shelf's side, the other finished sides pick up rough grey patches. The contractor reckons it's air from the spray gun that's causing that and says it's inevitable when using matt PU. We'll be trying again by covering the finished sides with paper and painter's tape, but we can't do this with the sofa's arms / legs as easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We also tried wet sanding with 1500 sandpaper - which removed the roughness, but left the grey patches - followed with 3m finesse it paste wax; it's too shiny for our liking and it raises the wood's grain, the grey patches / new scratches are now visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the brand of PU we're using: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bergerpaints.com/products/wood-finishes/56/imperia-luxury-polyurethane&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.bergerpaints.com/products/wood-finishes/56/imperia-luxury-polyurethane&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal? If so how do we avoid these rough grey patches in the first place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BPkh0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BPkh0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bed frame&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Osspo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Osspo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bed frame&amp;#39;s leg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TH64V.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TH64V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bookshelf&amp;#39;s side&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5565" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T17:12:54.893" Title="Top coat poly makes other sides rough" Tags="|polyurethane|restoration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7740" CreationDate="2018-09-14T06:02:58.887" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, yes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grain orientation in a board is all that determines what we refer to as quarter-sawn wood (it isn't always, as the name suggests, about how the wood was sawn&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;) and if you orient the wood in a glued-up top correctly, so the radial direction is horizontal, that's what you get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When this works out properly the glued-up top you end up with amounts to a large, and often quite thick, quarter-sawn panel (which would be prohibitively expensive to buy as solid wood, &lt;em&gt;if&lt;/em&gt; you could even find it). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is that the purpose of the &quot;butcher block&quot; glue up, to simulate and perhaps receive some of the benefits of quarter sawn? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes yes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason this is favoured by some for workbenches with solid-wood tops is that it makes the primary movement direction&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; up and down, through the thickness and not across the width as it is more commonly. This can simplify attachment of the top to the leg assemblies or underframe, but mainly it yields a surface that is more stable and less likely to warp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; It can be if the log is sawn with this specific intent, but individual pieces show the grain they show regardless of method used, e.g. there is always some quarter-sawn wood produced when you plain saw a log into planks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; See image in this previous Answer for radial, tangential and longitudinal grain, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5871/which-direction-does-wood-expand/5877#5877&quot;&gt;which direction does wood expand?&lt;/a&gt; and some more info about movement in various species.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2018-09-14T06:30:37.593" LastActivityDate="2018-09-14T06:30:37.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7743" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7753" CreationDate="2018-09-17T01:01:38.763" Score="2" ViewCount="202" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a watch box that I will dye black with Tranfast wood dye. I'd like to follow up with clear glossy polyurethane. However, I don't know how to protect this finish because the dye's label warns of fading in UV light. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the UV light from fluorescent bulbs degrade dyes? If so, will annual polyurethane coatings protect against this damage, or do I need something stronger?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5570" LastActivityDate="2018-09-19T00:32:00.410" Title="How should I protect dyed wood from interior UV light?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7744" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-17T16:15:55.513" Score="4" ViewCount="12793" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the process of designing a Murphy bed (wall bed) and most plans I've found so far recommend the use of 3/4 inch (19mm) thick plywood. While some like the look of plywood, I was considering some options closer to solid wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in Germany and edge glued solid wood panels are commonly sold in various sizes (though limited in breadth) and thicknesses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When comparing equally thick birch plywood and edge glued birch wood panels, what should I take into consideration in terms of their different properties?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was planning on using edge glued panels (cutting down 2000mm x 600 x 18mm panels) for the visible parts of the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&#xA;The murphy bed I plan is based the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y6T1xPC-Iek&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;following plan&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edge glued birch:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G0TeJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G0TeJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;laminated wood&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5165" LastEditorUserId="5165" LastEditDate="2018-09-17T17:40:27.030" LastActivityDate="2018-09-18T05:20:53.403" Title="Edge glued panels vs. plywood for furniture" Tags="|furniture|plywood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7744" CreationDate="2018-09-17T16:55:59.357" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The obvious difference is that plywood has grain running in both directions in the plane of the board; edge-glued panels don't.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result is that if you put a batten under the middle of the edge-glued panel running parallel to the grain, and jumped on it, I would expect the panel to snap.  If you did the same to plywood, I would not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That will matter if you are planning to cantilever the bed out in some way from the long edge - but you probably aren't.  Other than that, you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; As &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/users/1821/ashlar&quot;&gt;Ashlar&lt;/a&gt; points out in a comment, the other significant difference is that plywood is dimensionally pretty stable, but edge-glued timber will expand and contract across the width.  You will need to take this into account in your construction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest attaching &lt;em&gt;Lattenrost&lt;/em&gt; (slats) to the panel - I wouldn't want to sleep on a mattress lying directly on the panel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1646" LastEditorUserId="1646" LastEditDate="2018-09-18T05:20:53.403" LastActivityDate="2018-09-18T05:20:53.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7744" CreationDate="2018-09-17T17:26:14.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When comparing equally thick birch plywood and edge glued birch wood panels, what should I take into consideration in terms of their different properties?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The major consideration is wood movement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A plywood panel is dimensionally stable and will respond minimally to changes in relative humidity, so fixings can be rigid and don't have to take any movement into account. With a solid-wood panel on the other hand movement — expansion and contraction &lt;em&gt;across the grain only&lt;/em&gt; — must be borne in mind, especially on wider panels where it can be considerable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any decent furniture plans will naturally account for this in the design. Where it's a potential complication is with anything originally intended to be made from plywood but solid wood or a glued-up panel is substituted for the ply. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other factors relate to strength and stiffness. Outright strength shouldn't be a big issue, few designs push materials beyond reasonable limits and in terms of how they're put together most are over-engineered so there's a good margin of safety. Stiffness on the other hand is something that often needs to be considered, solid wood being generally much stiffer than plywood, and the stronger the wood the more pronounced the difference (a brief look at the values in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Sagulator&lt;/a&gt; will give some idea). But where the material is used edge-up (not flat and spanning a gap, as in a shelf) this is far less of a concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;While some like the look of plywood, I was considering some options closer to solid wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just in case it's the visible plies and glue lines along the edges of plywood that's a major aesthetic issue for you it is common to edge plywood with solid wood where seeing the plies would be undesirable. This is very commonly done with shelves for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a little on this in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/782/is-wood-movement-an-issue-with-edge-banded-plywood/791#791&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-09-17T17:26:14.397" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7703" CreationDate="2018-09-17T18:21:07.587" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sanded and refinished and it got rid of most of it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2925" LastActivityDate="2018-09-17T18:21:07.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7748" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7749" CreationDate="2018-09-17T18:27:12.150" Score="4" ViewCount="146" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a hinge and I'm having a bear of a time replacing it.  It's from an old Bakers box and it's the cabinet/tray hinge and has a peculiar shape.  It hangs down a bit so the door is actually lower than the hinge and it can create a seal.  Here is a link to what the bakers box looks like:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://cdn.globalauctionplatform.com/c5667e02-10b4-4c68-8999-a60901109f73/f640e5ac-2736-4b83-805e-6abfef436c0a/540x360.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;pic of bakers box&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;Here is a pic of the hinge.  It's about 1.5&quot; across and .75&quot; wide&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eUaw1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eUaw1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Here is the hinge&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Here is the side of the hinge&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MpuNf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MpuNf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;side of hinge&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is this hinge?  Any ideas where I can find a replacement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2925" LastActivityDate="2018-09-17T21:13:33.270" Title="What type of hinge is this?" Tags="|refinishing|hinges|restoration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7748" CreationDate="2018-09-17T21:13:33.270" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;That looks like a &quot;partial-wrap inset hinge&quot;. Places like Lee Valley have them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2018-09-17T21:13:33.270" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7750" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-18T10:31:23.340" Score="0" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am at a loss trying to figure out what this tool is, hopefully this is being asked in the right place.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The images are screen shots from a video, hopefully they are enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is quite small, perhaps about 15cm on each side.  It appears to do small position adjustments using the 2 silver dials on each side.  The small oval plate on top I think tilts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tool is being used in the video to screen print small items where positioning is critical. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this is enough information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jDLvE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jDLvE.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jCnAn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jCnAn.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5576" LastActivityDate="2018-09-19T00:27:29.990" Title="What is this tool called?" Tags="|tools|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2018-09-19T18:50:03.287" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7750" CreationDate="2018-09-18T16:17:02.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an &quot;X-Y table&quot; or a &quot;milling table&quot;.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/X-Y_table&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is the Wikipedia entry about them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Graphus's comment is correct, this is not typically used in woodworking (so I will vote to close this question, sorry).  The most common application is in a machinist's mill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2018-09-18T16:17:02.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7750" CreationDate="2018-09-18T18:21:04.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is what appears to be a shop-made &quot;X-Y Table (perhaps &quot;stage&quot;)&quot; similar to those used in a &lt;em&gt;toolmakers microscope&lt;/em&gt;. In this situation, moving the object of study is preferred over moving the lens assembly. In more elaborate models, precision measurements can be made by reading the micrometers used for x and y-axis positioning and aligning features with a reticule (hairline) seen through the lens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A somewhat more elaborate version can be seen here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.microscopeworld.com/p-1778-toolmakers-microscope.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Toolmakers Microscope&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question might be a candidate for Engineering StackOverflow, since such devices would commonly be used in a mechanical engineering prototyping shop and manufacturing tool-rooms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastEditorUserId="5330" LastEditDate="2018-09-19T00:27:29.990" LastActivityDate="2018-09-19T00:27:29.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7743" CreationDate="2018-09-19T00:32:00.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I don't need to worry about interior UV damage.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soon after posting this question, I realized that CFL's have a coating inside the bulb that filters out the UV light produced from the argon/mercury energization. Plus, user Ashlar noted that none of his dyed furniture has significantly faded after hours in direct sunlight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5570" LastActivityDate="2018-09-19T00:32:00.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7754" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-19T19:49:58.700" Score="1" ViewCount="463" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in a market for a new jointer. I was undecided between SCM FS30c or Hammer A31 30.&#xA;I thought that both of them were manufactured in EU. &#xA;Sale reps from both refer to the other as &quot;polished, pricy&quot; china and their products being proudly manufactured in EU.&#xA;I suspect that both are made to a certain degree in China...I'm just not sure how much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3804" LastEditorUserId="2524" LastEditDate="2018-09-24T16:34:44.340" LastActivityDate="2018-09-24T16:34:44.340" Title="Where are Hammer and SCM minimax manufactured" Tags="|jointer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7755" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7756" CreationDate="2018-09-19T20:13:46.163" Score="5" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a wooden plane but I am new to hand planes and couldn't identify it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to not fit in any category known to me (shoulder plane, bullnose plane, chamfering plane etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fygz0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fygz0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UBN1N.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UBN1N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later edit: the gap between the iron and the &quot;frog&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qAgU6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qAgU6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Caused by the misalignment of the top vs bottom of the resting area of the iron&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0OrY3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0OrY3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastEditorUserId="4942" LastEditDate="2018-09-19T22:40:11.413" LastActivityDate="2018-09-19T22:40:11.413" Title="What kind of plane is this?" Tags="|hand-tools|plane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7755" CreationDate="2018-09-19T22:00:28.513" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although the manufacturer call this a &lt;a href=&quot;https://pinie.cz/en/our-products/stepped-rabbet-plane-classic&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stepped Rabbet Plane&lt;/a&gt; this is a bullnose plane. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although their forms vary all planes with the iron bedded at a typical angle* and mounted in such a way that it's the leading part of the plane are in effect bullnose planes, intended for planing directly into a corner or the end of a stopped housing/dado.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Generally 45° or thereabouts. Similar planes with shallow bed angles of 20° or below (the iron mounted bevel up) would be classed as chisel planes. Both types are intended for much the same kind of work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-09-19T22:00:28.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2289" CreationDate="2018-09-20T08:51:29.460" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently built two 72&quot; wide tool cabinets with sq. tubing, 16ga sheet metal and wrapped with 18ga ss including drawer facings. The drawers are 65&quot; wide by 30&quot; deep and 4&quot; to 12&quot; tall. I knew I would have an issue with sagging. My solution for the 7 - 4&quot; drawers was to fabricate hat channel 4&quot; tall by 30&quot; long with an extra 1/2&quot; leg 90 degrees off one of the channel legs. Put to pieces together standing up and sitting on the two extra legs in the drawer. I then welded the channel to the drawer. I know this is way more extreme than what you need and you're dealing with wood instead of metal. Just showing you how well stiffeners can work when done correctly. I also added a straight piece of 16ga between the two hat channels to maintain they're strength, then cut thin cuts with cut off abrasive blade every inch in the hat channel. Then added more hat channels and use them as drawer dividers with 18ga pieces of metal that slides in the slot. No more sag. If this will work on 65&quot; wide drawers holding up to 600 lbs, some variation of this should work for you. Hope something here was helpful for you.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5578" LastActivityDate="2018-09-20T08:51:29.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7758" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7766" CreationDate="2018-09-20T16:09:59.153" Score="1" ViewCount="307" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need a bench for our kitchen table, and am trying to teach myself basic joinery, so I'm attempting to build one from some scrap pallet wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wood is nominally 1x4 and I think is probably pine, though that's a lesser concern. As I'm new to this, I'd like feedback to ensure the design itself isn't critically flawed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The expected load will be various combinations of my three kids (ages 9, 6, and 2). They all fidget, though the only one I expect will jump on it would be the 2 year old. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the basic design:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hkWiC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hkWiC.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot from Sketchup&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top connects to the legs by a series of through mortises holding the outer planks in place. The inner plank is held by a dado that notches into a bit of wood acts as a spacer (I'm not sure if this is properly a tenon or not). This serves two functions: it widens the seat slightly, and minimizes the chance that spills will accumulate food gunk between the planks of the bench top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a closeup of the connection between the legs and top:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pwiFL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pwiFL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Connection between legs and top, over and under views&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a shot with the top planks hidden, showing the location and size of the tenons:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U3clH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U3clH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tenons at top of legs&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thinnest place the wood gets is at the half-laps which connect the legs together. I've tried to mitigate this by compressing the half-lap between the tusk and the shoulder of the tenon, though I don't know how effective this will be:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T5woS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T5woS.png&quot; alt=&quot;Detail of half-lap compression&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the short term, it looks like it'll be ok - I'm currently adding the lower struts as there was some racking when we tried it out without them and my kids started to fidget.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a bit concerned on how long it's likely to last, and if it's probably going to break, any tips on making the next version more durable would be very welcome. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5367" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2019-10-24T20:59:04.357" LastActivityDate="2019-10-24T20:59:04.357" Title="How likely is it that my kids will break this bench?" Tags="|joinery|design|racking|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7760" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7762" CreationDate="2018-09-21T17:15:39.187" Score="3" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m looking to build a bed soon. We both liked the farmhouse bed from Ana White, so wanted to go with that general design, but we’d like it to be made from hardwood.  I picked up a load of rough sawn cherry locally (air dried).  My question is about board thickness.  I already plan to laminate for the posts, but I’m thinking of the side rails. Is 4/4 going to be strong enough (6” wide)? should I laminate boards for that, use additional support posts around the middle of the side rail, or should it be good?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plan is to use mortise and tenon for the side rails to attach to the posts, and also will have ~2x3 board behind the side rails running the length as support for the slats that I can also attach to the posts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long term, I’d like to place a hardwood dowel in the joint, but not until we buy our house, where it doesn’t need to be taken apart again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&#xA;Link to inspiration plans&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ana-white.com/2017/11/free_plans/modern-farmhouse-bed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.ana-white.com/2017/11/free_plans/modern-farmhouse-bed&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5583" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2018-09-21T22:40:00.150" LastActivityDate="2018-09-23T05:05:57.063" Title="Replacing hardware store 2x’s in plans with hardwood" Tags="|hardwood|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7760" CreationDate="2018-09-21T20:25:53.973" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 6&quot; wide board of 4/4 cherry should be fine for the side rails of a bed.  If you want you can run the calculation through &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sagulator&lt;/a&gt;, an online calculator designed to tell you how much a board will sag under load.  (Just be sure that the &quot;depth&quot; is 1&quot; and the &quot;thickness&quot; is 6&quot; since the board will be on edge.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2018-09-21T20:25:53.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7760" CreationDate="2018-09-21T22:52:11.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is 4/4 going to be strong enough (6” wide)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That should work but is worth checking Sagulator as Sassafras suggests.  Assume that the weight of both of you will be placed at the center of one side. Design based on extreme loads, not just usual loads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;and also will have ~2x3 board behind the side rails running the length as support for the slats&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Realize that this is a major part of the support and needs to attached firmly to the rail (gluing will do fine, glue and screw will be even better).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;use additional support posts around the middle of the side rail,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The diagram of the ana-white bed shows a center rail.  It is being asked to carry half the load and should definitely have a center support. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2018-09-21T22:52:11.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7763" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-22T14:06:02.970" Score="0" ViewCount="217" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got this desk from a friend that rescued it from the dump. There's a lot of rescue efforts that I'm putting into it. Not the least is fixing the finish that's totally gross.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started scraping the finish off of one of the drawers - it went a lot better than the belt sander I took to the desktop.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NYZ0l.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NYZ0l.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;scraped finish&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the biggest problems for me is that the drawers on one side are pinched up against each other. At first I thought maybe I just had them put in the wrong sides or something but then I pulled the drawers out and started inspecting this desk closer and I discovered this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OhKvw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OhKvw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;warped support&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't need a straight edge to tell me that part was warped as all heck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's some other shots of the affected part:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IXhP8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IXhP8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;top of warped support&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/42DB5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/42DB5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom middle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eifTV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eifTV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom side&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I fix something like this? I know there are a couple of nails holding it in place, and looks to be some wood glue. That block to the left of the leg is also some kind of runner/support that goes all the way to the back of the desk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I use a hammer to knock it out? Pry bar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously I'd like to salvage as much of this as possible - I'm also not sure how I'd bend the wood back, and I'm pretty sure just flipping it would just cause some other issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="471" LastEditorUserId="471" LastEditDate="2018-09-22T18:04:42.447" LastActivityDate="2018-09-22T22:23:18.750" Title="How do I fix this part of my desk?" Tags="|wood-repair|steam-bending|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7763" CreationDate="2018-09-22T19:52:37.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is basically the same problem as having an overloaded shelf.  The easiest fix is the same - add a horizontal support to give extra structure to the board.  Take a piece of 1x2 hardwood and use clamps along the bottom of the warped piece to force it flat.  If you can get it to pull flat right away, then remove the piece, and put it back with glue on it, then screw it to the bottom of the sagging piece with screws into the hardwood (start the screws inside the desk).  Once the glue dries, you can remove the clamps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cannot pull it flat the first try, clamp it as far as you can, and keep tightening it every day or so until it is flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2018-09-22T19:52:37.783" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7763" CreationDate="2018-09-22T22:16:06.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bit of this depends on how the drawer body is built, but I'd think about reducing the height of the back of the drawer to whatever the available space is... The downside is that the front might tilt forward and not sit nicely flush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And while it won't cost much to try, I doubt that time in clamps with a modest sized additional support (as suggested in another answer) will straighten the wood enough to be useful. I think you'd want something quite big (like a 2x3, with the 1-1/2 side in contact with the desk) to exert force and hold screws. That might be visually unattractive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failing all that, I think you'd need to replace that piece, which really isn't too hard. Old glue frequently comes undone with a sharp smack of the hammer. The nails might be a problem...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastEditorUserId="503" LastEditDate="2018-09-22T22:23:18.750" LastActivityDate="2018-09-22T22:23:18.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7758" CreationDate="2018-09-22T23:34:51.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the occupants of the bench rock to the left and right, the wedge will apply a large force on the end of the pegged tenon. The expected failure point is marked in the image. A combined weight of 150lbs, doing moderate rocking, could cause this failure in a few seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IMlSX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IMlSX.png&quot; alt=&quot;expected failure point in pegged tenon&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5389" LastActivityDate="2018-09-22T23:34:51.483" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7760" CreationDate="2018-09-23T05:05:57.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking at that design and noticed that the horizontal structure pieces (sides + head + foot) are in a T shape.  If you glue each of those up, then each will give strength in their weak dimension to the other (neither will allow the other to bend).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would stick with traditional bed frame hardware for holding it together.  Even if you do not ever plan on moving again, you may need to replace carpet or some other reason to break it down.  If you don't feel that you will get sufficient support for the bed hardware on from your existing boards, you could laminate the last 12&quot; or so of each board to give more depth for the fasteners to connect to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2018-09-23T05:05:57.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7768" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7777" CreationDate="2018-09-23T15:58:52.997" Score="2" ViewCount="582" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was about to submerge fresh pieces of wood of various types in our barrel filled with water - to let the saps come out and after some time get good wood. These pieces will be used for small objects, kitchen utensils, carvings etc. And some outdoors elements that to become durable against rain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then my wife told me not to do it, because this should be done in a stream of water. Like the lumbermill nearby, they have their logs lying in their water stream for a few years and it becomes very good wood. My wife says that if I do it in our barrel, the barrel will be full of the wood saps soon and when the water isn't refreshed this will attract things like bugs and rot, etc. It sounds sensible but neither of us is an expert on soaking wood, I never did it before. Where I live (The Netherlands) This was a common practice throughout the ages but nowadays it is done rarely, which is why it's hard for me to find resources on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance I couldn't find any info on a second question I have;&#xA;I remember once hearing that the best watered wood is the oak that was lying on the deepest bottom of the lakes. I remember the reason for that was that the deepest parts of the water have the least amount of oxygen in it, so the watering process takes place anaerobically. This makes the best quality wood, better than watering in undeep water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I was wondering: perhaps if I close the lid of the barrel airtight, the process will be anaerobic aswell? And produce better wood?&#xA;I'm hoping to find some people here who have experience with soaking wood to answer my questions. I also find very little information resources online, especially in English. I don't seem to find the official phrase for this in English (in dutch it's called &quot;gewaterd hout&quot; but when I search in English I can only wood people who soak their wood for the BBQ grill...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So these are my questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it a good idea to use a barrel to soak wood?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If so, is it a good idea to close the lid?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And how much should the water/wood ratio at least be?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I refresh the water once in a while?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5492" LastActivityDate="2018-09-24T19:11:58.997" Title="Submerge wood in a barrel to improve it - Is my wife right that this is a bad idea?" Tags="|lumber|water-protection|pressure-treated|durability|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7769" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-23T16:21:27.503" Score="4" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in search of ideas on this one.  I'm looking to build a unit that sits on my electronics workbench that will hold a keyboard, mouse and monitor.  I want the unit to easily slide off to the side of my bench for when I'm not actively using the PC.  Here's a rough sketch of the idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gQrer.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gQrer.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had originally planned to use a set of ball bearing rollers like the type pictured below.  I quickly realized, however, that they focus the weight down to a small area creating enough pressure to dent the soft plywood surface on my bench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1OmLc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1OmLc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;example ball bearing roller&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My next, and current idea is to use a set of plastic &quot;furniture slides&quot; like one might nail onto the bottom of chair legs.  I'm sure that this will not glide across a table top as smoothly as I would like though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot got with swivel casters (which would be ideal) as they are simply to tall - I need to to be lower profile, at least in the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any ideas for a slide, caster, etc. that would work well for a tabletop application such as this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5586" LastEditorUserId="5586" LastEditDate="2018-09-29T04:04:05.023" LastActivityDate="2018-10-17T21:22:48.320" Title="Caster/slide for tabletop tray" Tags="|tabletop|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7770" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7778" CreationDate="2018-09-23T17:21:15.143" Score="4" ViewCount="240" Body="&lt;p&gt;The triggers on my green Bosch power tools are all extremely precise and they feel very lubricated. My Metabo drill on the other hand has a terrible trigger. It feels like plastic grinding on plastic. Fine control is impossible. Hence I use the Bosch drill for small screws. Is there way to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Metabo is new and it's always been like this, so this is not a wear issue. Similar or same models at the store also have this problem, so it probably isn't a manufacturing defect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T2DydS_Mmvc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Metabo trigger (YouTube)&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3934" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2018-09-27T00:46:22.993" LastActivityDate="2018-09-28T05:10:25.713" Title="Oiling Triggers on Power tools?" Tags="|power-tools|oiling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7770" CreationDate="2018-09-23T17:49:35.277" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like plastic on plastic, with particles tossed in for good measure. If you aren't concerned about opening the case, consider to do so while looking for fragments and particles that are causing this problem. Brush them out or blow them out of the area of the trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once opened, application of a teflon (PTFE) or silicone based grease may provide additional improvement. Avoid petroleum based lubricants unless you're certain there will be no degradation of the plastics involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: to add suggestion to original answer...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There may be no particles within the switch assembly, but poorly engineered mechanisms and poorly manufactured mechanisms will behave in the manner you describe. It's been my experience that warranties are mostly useless and are rarely a reason to avoid improving your work experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a possibility that the trigger assembly is a rack and pinion, a linear segment with teeth. These teeth could have bumps and ridges remaining from the production of that part. There could be other moving components with similar flaws from the molding or assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dismantling carefully the switch (Watch for flying springy thingies!) and running fine sandpaper or a fine file over the engagement area may clean up the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you prefer to avoid opening the housing, you may be stuck with a glitchy trigger finger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastEditorUserId="3985" LastEditDate="2018-09-24T18:05:30.177" LastActivityDate="2018-09-24T18:05:30.177" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7769" CreationDate="2018-09-23T19:47:12.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My next, and current idea is to use a set of plastic &quot;furniture slides&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I was reading the opening sentences of your Question my first thought was Teflon or similar low-friction glides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However even those may dent, or otherwise mark, the surface of softer plywood because the contact area is small and it will focus the weight onto a relatively small area. I think the only way to find out for sure would be to do a test with the appropriate weight. In short you might need to try it to see whether it'll work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just from handling cheaper plywoods I do think some marking is more likely than not, but plywoods vary widely and the total weight may not be as much as I'm envisaging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm sure that this will not glide across a table top as smoothly as I would like though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again a test would tell you what you'll get, but waxing the surface of the desk would help with this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Waxing is regularly relied on in woodworking to provide an easy-sliding surface quality and sometimes in situations where otherwise there'd be significant drag (e.g. metal on metal as in power tool mitre slots) and it can be amazing how much difference it makes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use standard paste furniture wax for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-09-23T19:47:12.197" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7773" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7782" CreationDate="2018-09-24T00:50:46.340" Score="2" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;p&gt;My vacuum setup currently consists of a 5hp shop vac (orange) with 2.5” hoses, a hepa filter, a cyclone pre-filter (dust deputy), and automatic power. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It works very well except the hose often clogs with large objects, particularly long thin slivers of material from the table saw or the occasional bit of masking tape. The problem points seem to be the joint with the cyclone filter and the outlet from the table saw, as well as inside the cyclone itself (when a very long object greater than the diameter of the filter tries to enter and hits the opposite wall). Once an object gets stuck, smaller things tend to get hung up on it until it becomes clogged enough for me to notice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a solution to this? I don’t mind things getting hung up on the tool sides but the cyclone joint is kind of a pain. Is there some additional type of pre-filter system that can drop out extremely large objects that make it through the hose before they reach the cyclone, or some other solution? I can’t really increase my hose diameter; I don’t have the budget or the space for it and the majority of my tools (and the cyclone) are 2.5” or smaller anyways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’d post pics but I don’t have any right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2018-09-24T13:44:29.917" LastActivityDate="2018-09-26T09:29:27.073" Title="Vacuum pre-filter for large objects" Tags="|dust-collection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7774" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-24T11:18:23.940" Score="0" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;We all know the basic rule: If you use a tool rarely, buy a homeworker quality power tool or a cheap one. If you use a tool often, buy a pro or semi-professional power tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Allow me to summarize some european brands into four categories:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cheap stuff: Lux Tools, Okay Power&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Homeworker Quality: Bosch green, Einhell red&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Semi-pro: Makita, Metabo, Bosch blue (The cheaper ones)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pro: Makita, Metabo, Bosch blue, DeWalt, Hilti&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I buy drills and stationary tools from the semi-pro category and tools for particular tasks that stay in the shelf most of the time (Belt Sanders, Handplaner, Plunge Router) are of homeworker quality (mostly Einhell). But that is just my personal opinion. I'm looking for numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had these never ending discussions with my boss long time ago what would be more beneficial: Buying 10 Einhell red drills or 3 Makita drills for the same price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having more drills is great. One breaks? Theres a box over there filled with drills, get a new one. More people join to work? No problem, we have enough drills. The downsides would be more frequent visits to the store to fix or buy new drills and of course transportation and storage of a large number of power tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've had a situation where were we required over a thousand screws for the floor of a terrace and we only had three screw drivers. One guy was drilling the holes, the other two were busy with the screws and the rest were just standing around pretending to be doing something intelligent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to roughly narrow it down to how long each of the categories mentioned above will last. Hours (for any tool), charges (for battery tools), Number of screws (drills)... the variables don't really matter. As the title says I'm looking for a general rule of thumb if possible for all power tools. Also for large stationary tools: If your bandsaw dies and you don't have a big car you've got a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a rule of thumb I got from reading some different articles but I doubt the credibility of these numbers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cheap tools: 5 hours average operation time until failure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Homeworker tools: 50 hours&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Semi-Pro tools: Somewhere inbetween I guess&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pro tools: 1000 hours+&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3934" LastActivityDate="2018-09-24T11:18:23.940" Title="Rule of thumb for Power Tool Durability" Tags="|power-tools|durability|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7741" CreationDate="2018-09-24T13:57:22.960" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... how do we avoid these rough grey patches in the first place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can’t think of any reason why this would be coming from within the wood itself. Whatever it is, overspray, dust, etc, it’s probably coming from the air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to avoid it, try covering the surfaces you aren’t working on with plastic sheeting. You can stick it down with masking tape, or clamp it under a piece of scrap, or whatever you have that keeps it in place without damaging the piece (e.g. for legs throw a garbage bag over it and wrap some tape tightly around the top of the bag, whatever, be creative).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also try tweaking ventilation and airflow if it’s overspray, e.g. a fan facing you might push the overspray at you instead of the piece. If you’re in a room with little/no airflow, then where things land is up to gravity, static, and the whims of closed air currents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2018-09-24T14:02:43.457" LastActivityDate="2018-09-24T14:02:43.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7770" CreationDate="2018-09-24T15:45:55.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe not a great answer, but I think it needs to be said:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a &lt;em&gt;caveat emptor&lt;/em&gt; experience. If you don't want to service the tool yourself, and you don't think you can return it, put it on the &quot;extra tools&quot; shelf and budget for a new tool with the &quot;feel&quot; you now know you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've all bought tools that didn't feel right, and feel is a hard thing to quantify. You know it when you know it (and I'm speaking as a lefty, here).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, at least, don't self-service this tool until you know you can make it worse and can live without it, or have the budget for a better replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may also be worthwhile making a polite complaint to the manufacturer. It could very well be a bad batch, or something they are tracking. Tool manufacturers (well, the semi-pro and pro manufacturers) live and die on word-of-mouth, and many of us stick with the names we already know, or saw in the hands of an old-timer. (Er, pun not intended.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2018-09-24T15:45:55.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7768" CreationDate="2018-09-24T19:11:58.997" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure this qualifies as an answer, but we might be talking about two different things here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mills used to float logs in their millponds to minimize splitting and checking while they were being queued up for sawing. The idea is that it suspends the drying process, and logs can be sawn green even if those logs had to wait for weeks or months after logging. Pond soaked logs decay slower in the water, but they do decay. There can be a recognizable pond-smell pong from lumber sawn from such logs, especially further away from the heartwood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a bit different from the logging operations that reclaim logs from deep water low temperature and low oxygen environments. Again, the logs have been kept &quot;green&quot; to some extent, so they can make good lumber. There is far less decay, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once removed from the water, there still has to be a drying process, with all the usual caveats about splitting, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it depends on why we want to soak the green lumber. Some turners like to soak walnut because they like the way it uniformly darkens the wood. (Maybe there is some advantage to softer wood for turning, as well?) I've never heard a good argument from any old-timers on why generally soaking lumber is advantageous, other than delaying drying until a more convenient time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as for soaking lumber in a barrel, it is going to get very smelly, even with a home-made anaerobic system. You will not get the advantages of cold deep-water logs (whatever those are). Your lumber is going to decay a bit, and you might even end up imparting an odour in the wood -- this might be an issue for things like boards, bowls, and spoons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be able to minimize these downsides with running or changing water, though that sounds like an awful lot of work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2018-09-24T19:11:58.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7770" CreationDate="2018-09-24T19:44:48.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well I opened my Metabo BS18. This is what it looks like inside:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IMkx7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IMkx7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the trigger itself:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7oFrJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7oFrJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trigger is built something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yC4yC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yC4yC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have a piece of hollow plastic wedged inside another tube-like piece of plastic with a spring system inside. If there are any lateral forces involved it will create a lot of friction. If pressing straight down it works pretty smoothly (Not as smooth as the Bosch though). I added some lube to it (the gap seems too narrow for grease, I might try another time) but it didn't improve a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real issue seems to be that the two triggers are offset to the right side by about 8mm. So if you press straight down on the middle of the trigger you are adding lateral forces. The trick is to press the trigger down and with both fingers pull slightly to the right or press on the right side of the trigger. After a little practice it was more a combination of two but I can smoothly press the trigger all the way down. The lube helped a little but I could have done it without.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it turned out to be really poor design by Metabo and its sad that I had to open the drill and study the trigger to learn how to use it. You actually need to learn how you wrap your fingers around the trigger and remember where to put them everytime you take this drill in your hand. It takes a little practice. Maybe they should have put this into the instruction manual :) I will certainly notify them of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a recording of me doing it wrong first and then &quot;correctly&quot;: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OycFe77rEvE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OycFe77rEvE&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I went to the store yesterday - &lt;strong&gt;rant&lt;/strong&gt;: I tested out a variety of different Drills. The BS18 from Metabo indeed has a terrible incredibly rough trigger. The Metabo 10.8V BS had a very good trigger. The 10.8V SB seemed to have a slight delay between pressing the trigger and the drill actually starting which felt very sluggish. I tested some Makita, Bosch and Einhell as well. The triggers were anywhere between perfect and somewhat rough. But none, not even the cheapest were as bad as the BS18. However the BS 18 isn't even that bad once you learn how to use it, it requires a different grip and then you're fine. Perhaps the people that tested it at Metabo hat strange hands. However none of the triggers got even close to how good the trigger is on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bosch-do-it.com/gb/en/diy/tools/psb-18-li-2-ergonomic-3165140814256-199880.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Green Bosch PSB 18 Li-2&lt;/a&gt;. It's perfectly smooth, and it seems like its the only drill to have logarithmic progression. It's an 18V but I love this drill for small screws because of the insane fine control at slow speeds and also the center of weight that is in front of your hand unlike other drills. I read many reviews of the PSB 18 and none mentioned the different weight balance (which can cause the drill to tip over more easily, but reduces handshake) and the logarithmic trigger. Too bad most people don't look into these things in detail. Bosch green innovations are pretty awesome at times. The trigger is something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ijvi1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ijvi1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3934" LastEditorUserId="3934" LastEditDate="2018-09-28T05:10:25.713" LastActivityDate="2018-09-28T05:10:25.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7779" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7780" CreationDate="2018-09-25T13:12:23.250" Score="1" ViewCount="360" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a newbie woodworker and the struggle is real. My current project needs me to cut a 2&quot; wide by 1/2&quot; deep slot in a 3&quot; wide by 1&quot; by 1&quot; piece of soft maple. A 2&quot; wide piece of 1/2&quot; plywood will be inserted and glued into the slot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MPd9K.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MPd9K.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have access to a co-op workspace, so assuming I have all the standard power tools, what is the easiest way for me to do this? I tried drilling it out with a drill press and it came out like s**t.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Appreciate any input! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5560" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2018-09-25T14:53:01.917" LastActivityDate="2018-09-26T12:10:27.140" Title="How to cut 2&quot; wide x 1/2&quot; deep slot in 3&quot; x 1&quot; x 1&quot; soft maple?" Tags="|joinery|technique|mortise-and-tenon|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7779" CreationDate="2018-09-25T14:42:10.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The traditional way to cut a shallow mortice would be using a ½&quot; chisel and mallet, it should only take a few minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Setting up a guide-jig for a router would take longer and still need a chisel to clean up the corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="158" LastActivityDate="2018-09-25T14:42:10.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7779" CreationDate="2018-09-25T23:35:23.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While RedGrittyBrick is correct, an alternative is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B07CXHPM71&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mortising chisel&lt;/a&gt;, also called a square hole bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tpUfj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tpUfj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would use this in a drill press, and for best results use a guide to get the edges lined up exactly. With strong downward pressure, the bit removes wood, while the square chisel cuts and diverts the waste into the bit for removal. The bottom requires cleanup. Note also the top clamps, which prevent the aggressive bit from pulling the workpiece up off the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that this is not the same as a mortise chisel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/niKjx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/niKjx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll notice that these babies are much beefier than standard chisels, and are intended to cut and lever out wood. For any depth of cut, they will work much better and faster than a standard chisel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="463" LastEditorUserId="463" LastEditDate="2018-09-25T23:41:13.143" LastActivityDate="2018-09-25T23:41:13.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7773" CreationDate="2018-09-26T09:29:27.073" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can put a rudimentary filter at the tool side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For filtering out just the super large chunks it is enough that the air changes direction and cannot pull the those along. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An airtight box with just an inlet and outlet should be enough for that. If you want you can put a wire screen in there to truly catch those chunks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2018-09-26T09:29:27.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7779" CreationDate="2018-09-26T12:10:27.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;what is the easiest way for me to do this? I tried drilling it out with a drill press and it came out like s**t.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ignoring the scale for the moment, the way you'd traditionally approach something like this* is 1) excavate the bulk of the material, 2) flatten the bottom of the recess, 3) clean all four edges up and then 4) do any final flattening of the bottom that's needed. Steps 2 and 4 would generally have been done with a hand router where the bottom needed to be particularly flat and clean, if that wasn't needed you could just scrape to flat(ish) using the edge of the chisel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In many cases step 1 above would have been done by drilling to depth using a suitable bit (these days a Forstner or sawtooth bit would be most commonly employed, back then usually a centre bit). All three of these bits will leave dimples from the central lead screw/point on the drill bit, but that's not a big deal on a non-show surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So drilling away a good bit of the waste is actually a good way to approach this sort of thing, the small size is probably what gave you trouble. The smaller you're working the more careful you have to be in a relatively coarse medium like wood because just one errant splinter can ruin the piece you're working on, where on a full-size table leg that same size of splinter might barely be noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now because this is so small you can quite easily accomplish the task entirely by chiselling (after careful marking out of course). But if you need the recess to be very neat and the finished size very accurately 1/2&quot; x 2&quot; I would strongly recommend not using a 1/2&quot; chisel. An expert could, but you are virtually guaranteed to end up with irregular edges no matter how careful you set out to be and these would need to be trimmed back to neaten up so you'll end up wider than 1/2&quot;. So if you do this with a chisel it would be preferable to use a 1/4&quot; or 3/8&quot; chisel for the excavating work, then trim the 2&quot; edges back to your knifed layout lines with a 3/4&quot; or 1&quot; chisel (not essential but a wider chisel = fewer cuts = better chance at a cleaner result).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case it needs to be said the chisels should be very sharp for this — as chisels should always be — so if necessary hone them or strop them immediately before starting. Chisels only work properly if &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3374/how-can-i-tell-if-wood-turning-lathe-chisels-are-sharp/3377#3377&quot;&gt;very sharp&lt;/a&gt; and although it seems paradoxical they're safer to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also make sure the workpiece is held firmly to work on it! Presumably there'll be a vice of some kind in the co-op workspace so do make use of it, with the jaws padded using folded paper or card if necessary to prevent bruising of the maple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*For example cutting the recess for an oilstone box to receive the stone, see links in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3029/how-to-make-a-recess-in-a-board/3030#3030&quot;&gt;previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-09-26T12:10:27.140" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7784" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-26T13:26:08.987" Score="0" ViewCount="1650" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there is any software which can calculate the size of furniture which are present on picture or image For Example I have an image of furniture I want to calculate its length, width , height size of that furniture is there is any approach or way ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5591" LastActivityDate="2018-09-26T16:07:09.307" Title="Calculate the size of furniture which are available in the picture" Tags="|furniture|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7784" CreationDate="2018-09-26T16:07:09.307" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The general idea is to compare the dimensions of the furniture in the photo to known dimensions of another object in the photo - a ruler would be ideal, of course, but anything of known size would work. Measure the size of the known object in the photo, and that gives you a scale - for example, 1&quot; in the photo corresponds to 1 foot in the real world. You can then measure the size of the furniture in the photo and convert accordingly (e.g., if it's 5&quot; long in the photo, then it'd be 5 feet long in the real world). Depth is tricky in this case, as it's scale can be different, so you'd want to calculate a scale for that separately - and try to get your reference object in the same plane of the picture as your furniture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have an object of known size in the photo, you can hopefully use approximate sizes. For instance, there may be a person in the picture. You don't know the exact dimensions of the person, but you can estimate based on average sizes. Your calculated dimensions of the furniture will be estimates, but that may be better than nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all else fails, you can base it off of &quot;standard&quot; sizes for various items. Tables tend to be of a certain height (or range of heights), for instance, and bookcases tend to be within a range of depths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, consider if you actually need accurate dimensions from a photo. One of the great things about woodworking is the ability to build exactly what you need. It may be helpful to know that the table you're basing your design on is 42&quot; square, but if you only have space for a 36&quot; round table, then make your table 36&quot; square. Some other dimensions may need to be adjusted to accommodate (e.g., apron lengths). Here some kind of modeling software (e.g., SketchUp) would be helpful to visualize proportions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastActivityDate="2018-09-26T16:07:09.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7786" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7790" CreationDate="2018-09-28T10:06:02.383" Score="3" ViewCount="532" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the technical term for the hole made in this soap holder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I cannot figure out how it was done to make it evenly curved&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QAfrX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QAfrX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5597" LastActivityDate="2018-09-28T14:02:57.983" Title="Creating a curved hole in a piece of wood" Tags="|wood|holes|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7787" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7789" CreationDate="2018-09-28T11:13:18.147" Score="5" ViewCount="1594" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a wall-art thing from some laser cut veneers. I need to glue some small shapes onto a large backing board. The pieces are as small as around 7mm in diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the best glue for the job? I'm not sure if regular wood glue would be enough. Would some kind of contact adhesive work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some of the bigger pieces I'm thinking of using hot-melt glue. Is there a way to do fine work with a hot melt glue gun?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The piece will be varnished in the end but right now the wood doesn't have anything on it. And it will be indoors (hanging on a wall).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5598" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2018-10-01T19:49:08.730" LastActivityDate="2018-10-01T19:49:08.730" Title="how to glue tiny pieces of wood" Tags="|glue|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7786" CreationDate="2018-09-28T11:18:26.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Off the top of my head, I thought of three different ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You may use a gouge to do this. A gouge is blade similar to a chisel, but rounded. They hollow out spoons, bowls, clogs, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If your soap dish were round, then it would probably be easiest to turn it on a lathe, to cut out the hollow part.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A milling machine can easily duplicate a shape like this. There are CNC milling machines, which are computer controlled and will be programmed to cut a shape out, and there are copy milling machines, which copy an existing design, by following the contour of some part, and moving the cutter in the same way. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2463" LastActivityDate="2018-09-28T11:18:26.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7787" CreationDate="2018-09-28T13:34:23.350" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What would be the best glue for the job? I'm not sure if regular wood glue would be enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If by 'regular wood glue' you mean PVA-type glues (either white or yellow) then yes that can work. PVA can be used cold (as normal, positioning when wet) or hot&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; in veneering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Epoxy might be suitable. The porosity of the wood used and the thickness of the veneers are important here as any glue squeezed out onto the surface&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; will cause problems later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also consider using liquid hide glue (AKA room-temperature hide glues, that don't need to be kept warm). &lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; although it's traditional you &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; have to texture the substrate in advance when using hide glue for veneer work. This is old thinking and testing has shown it's not necessary and actually can be counterproductive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would some kind of contact adhesive work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could I suppose, but it's not the ideal choice for a couple of reason. In the long term I'd worry about adhesion on small pieces, but there are two issues I see straight away that I think rule it out immediately in terms of what's practical. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is the glue needs to be spread on both pieces, left to dry a little ('tack up') so it would slow the process down a fair bit. Then you basically have one shot only to get something positioned exactly right. With the other suggestions above you have at least a little wiggle room (literally and metaphorically) which could be a huge boon. Epoxy in particular would give you a minute or two and up to an hour to fine-tune positioning of every piece, and if you use PVA as a thermosetting adhesive you have essentially unlimited repositioning time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For some of the bigger pieces I'm thinking of using hot-melt glue. Is there a way to do fine work with a hot melt glue gun?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fine work in general, I'm sure there is but I doubt it's really possible to use it for veneer work (how to spread it thinly and evenly, and keeping it hot enough to stick?) and cleaning up excess could prove problematical. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; You coat both the back of the veneer and the substrate, let the glue dry, then you iron the veneer (protecting the face, e.g. with brown paper) which melds the two layers of dried adhesive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Glue can come through the wood, not just around the edges. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-09-28T13:34:23.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7786" CreationDate="2018-09-28T14:02:57.983" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is the technical term for the hole made in this soap holder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure there is a specific term other than to say it's been hollowed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I cannot figure out how it was done to make it evenly curved&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of ways this can be done today. Excluding fully automated methods (CNC) I think there are three main hand-operated possibilities. In no particular order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It can be fully hand-carved, so one or a combination of curved-edged tools — gouges, curved knives (hook knives), scorps or travishers — could be used to do the basic hollowing out, then a certain amount of scraping and/or sanding to finish off. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can use various types of cutting bits (burrs or rotary files) held in a power drill and cutting disks in angle grinders to carve out wood with astonishing speed. Generally these leave a pretty rough surface so a fair amount of scraping and/or sanding would be needed to complete smoothing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It's also possible to do this entirely by sanding, using one or more sanding devices again held in a drill or angle grinder and worked over the surface. Starting with a very coarse grit (possibly below 60) you can hog material off surprisingly quickly, then you just move up through the grits until the surface is as good as you want it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-09-28T14:02:57.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7791" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-28T23:56:21.030" Score="1" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I get rid of this spot? I sanded and thought I had gotten rid of it. I did not use mineral spirits before applying stain. Any idea on how to get this spot to darken?&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5scgD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5600" LastActivityDate="2018-10-17T12:52:48.877" Title="Staining pine table top how can I get rid of this spot" Tags="|finishing|staining|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7792" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-29T00:23:43.540" Score="1" ViewCount="1942" Body="&lt;p&gt;I applied Minwax Wood Finish penetrating stain to white pine cabinet. Wiped stain thoroughly, waited 60 hours before attempting to apply Minwax water based, oil-modified polyurethane, using synthetic bristle brush. All of this is exactly as per instructions on products.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I did that wasn't on the Minwax instructions was to soak my brush in paint thinner to release trapped air, then wipe on paper until dry before dipping in the polyurethane. This advice was given by several different experts online.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I drew my brush across the piece, the poly immediately began beading up. I took another stroke through, now beading up through the entire length of the stroke.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I Immediately wiped the poly off and then wiped the area again using solvent. The piece may have lost a tiny bit of colour on that strip, but it looks ok.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5601" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2019-12-30T21:00:49.157" LastActivityDate="2020-01-29T21:03:30.537" Title="Water based oil modified polyurethane finish beading when applied over stain on pine" Tags="|staining|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7793" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-29T02:58:24.917" Score="0" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building custom walnut cabinets for my kitchen and normally I see cabinets built in separate units then basically screwed together on site (e.g. a 24&quot; screwed to a 36&quot; sink cabinet). I was curious if it was better to build a fewer larger cabinets so that alignment it easier and it presents a more monolithic front. Obviously it makes moving them in to place trickier, but I wasn't sure what the best process was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5602" LastActivityDate="2018-09-30T20:08:14.177" Title="How big should you build cabinets?" Tags="|design|cabinetry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7792" CreationDate="2018-09-29T16:52:20.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;water based&lt;/strong&gt;, oil-modified polyurethane&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  paint thinner &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's your problem right there. Paint thinner and waterbased finishes don't go together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This advice was given by several different experts online. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's in relation to standard varnishes (oil-based). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Never loading finish — this includes oil, varnish, paint or shellac — into a dry brush is sound practice, but you use the appropriate solvent in each case. With waterbased finishes that's water*.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Usually plain water but some prefer water mixed with a little of an additive, e.g. flow aid or retarder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-09-29T16:52:20.450" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7795" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-30T01:00:45.883" Score="4" ViewCount="2891" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done an etching on Birch veneer plywood for a piece of wall art and am trying to figure out the best way to finish it. It's a 24&quot; x 24&quot; Aztec Calendar design with a lot of intricacies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The guy who helped me with the etching had recommended either a danish oil or a polyurethane. I've been told Polyurethane is the best option if I don't want to change the wood at all, but I was leaning toward Danish oil since it would bring out the wood grain more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd honestly like everything to be darker, but I'm not sure whether using Danish oil would also make the etched parts darker. My goal is to increase the contrast between the etched/non-etched parts, not reduce it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone has experience in finishing a heavily etched design, please let me know what would achieve the best result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Su4N.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Su4N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5605" LastEditorUserId="5605" LastEditDate="2018-10-04T15:26:29.243" LastActivityDate="2021-02-02T16:40:11.663" Title="What is the best finish for a laser etching on birch veneer plywood?" Tags="|finishing|plywood|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7795" CreationDate="2018-09-30T01:50:27.537" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why not make some smaller test pieces on some scrap pieces of the birch veneer plywood. Etch small but similar patterns. Then finish these test pieces to see which type of finish you like better and best achieves your objectives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some part of asking for finishing advice is going to get you opinions based on other folks preferences. It is highly likely that your preferences may be very different!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2018-09-30T01:50:27.537" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7797" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7801" CreationDate="2018-09-30T07:35:24.987" Score="5" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oftentimes I see a video such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cvYVt_cY2kc&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 2:04 the maker is using a biscuit slot cutting machine on two different surfaces. He does not seem to take care to measure carefully and align the slots on each surface. I'm not singling this guy out at all; I see many videos from many countries, and none of the woodworkers I have seen using this technique have bothered as far as I can tell. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So do biscuit joiners not actually need to be perfectly aligned, the way dowels do? Or is there some trick that I'm not seeing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2463" LastActivityDate="2018-10-02T14:16:04.680" Title="How do biscuits work?" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7795" CreationDate="2018-09-30T11:45:01.393" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've been told Polyurethane is the best option if I don't want to change the wood at all &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's not right, because &quot;polyurethane&quot; is a catch-all phrase for all clear finishes that include some polyurethane&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; and only one type does little to change the wood's colour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When someone just says &quot;poly&quot; they might mean one of at least three very distinct products that are really nothing alike (and unless the context makes it clear they should be more specific which one they're referring to). The poly that will alter the wood minimally is specifically waterbased polyurethane, but oil-based polyurethane is as common if not more so and like all oil-based varnishes it will noticeably deepen the tone of wood, as well as imparting some yellowish/amber colouring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a third type of polyurethane, a two-part product mixed prior to application, but that's not a consumer-level finish and generally only a pro will be talking about that (and only to other pros).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'd honestly like everything to be darker&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All oil-based finishes will darken the wood to some degree. Although the inherent colour&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; of the finish itself is a factor it's mainly down to the wood itself and how it absorbs the finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;but I'm not sure whether using Danish oil would also make the etched parts darker. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I strongly suspect it will, but the right way to find out is to take an offcut or test piece and apply the finish(es) you have and see what you get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Recommendation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I would steer you towards using oil-based polyurethane for this for a couple of reasons. Cards on the table, one reason is I'm against commercial &quot;Danish oil&quot; products as I've touched on in a few previous Answers&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;, but there's also a good practical reason to prefer varnish here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because &quot;Danish oil&quot; is a penetrating finish it's intended that all the excess is wiped away from the surface, which is going to be a real problem with something like this with all those nooks and crannies. Excess that isn't removed will not dry hard (ever) and will remain permanently gummy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Varnish on the other hand is intended to be left on the surface and it dries hard, so you don't have to be nearly as careful about removing all the excess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; one detail I forgot to add is it would be good to dilute the oil-based poly, which turns it into what's usually now called wiping varnish. Thinning helps in multiple ways, it makes oil-based varnish easier to apply, helps avoid application marks and generally in achieving a smooth finish, and also aids in getting consistent drying. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read more about wiping varnish in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5891/how-to-fix-very-light-scratches-in-polyurethane-finish/5893#5893&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;. Do note specifically that you don't need to wipe on or wipe off wiping varnish despite its name — in your case I think using a roller both for application of for removal of excess would work best. I would specifically avoid using rags or foam brushes because of the potential for them to snag on the raised edges of the plywood which could pull off splinters of veneer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; In most consumer-level finishes the polyurethane is only an additive, to improve scratch resistance, the finish isn't actually based on poly as the name seems to suggests. In actual fact oil-based polyurethane is &lt;em&gt;mostly&lt;/em&gt; alkyd varnish (the more complete name for these varnishes is uralkyd) and with waterbased polys the finish is &lt;em&gt;mostly&lt;/em&gt; a dispersion finish, e.g. acrylic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; This is assuming uncoloured finish. There are coloured versions of both available, but assuming you're using the 'clear' version there is still a wide variation in colour. Generally &quot;Danish oil&quot; will be much darker because of the high oil content, while varnishes are generally pale (some very pale) because of the lower oil content and higher resin content.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; An equivalent can be made easily at home, starting with two products that are useful to have separately as well as mixed (BLO and gloss poly). You can tailor your own version to your own preferences and changing conditions (thinner or thicker, more or less varnish). Last but not least, the commercial stuff is overpriced for what it is (more than half of what's in the can is solvent!) and homemade versions should be significantly cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2018-10-01T12:14:53.583" LastActivityDate="2018-10-01T12:14:53.583" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7799" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-30T17:17:04.697" Score="3" ViewCount="1125" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a dining table and I try to follow the &quot;form follows function&quot; philosophy. I need to decide what type of edge to put on my table (round over, bullnose, ogee, beveled, etc). I know I at least want a slight round over to prevent edge splintering, but other than that do edge profiles even matter, from a functional perspective? Are they purely aesthetic, or do they affect the comfort of the guests? Is end grain affected? Some work better as drip edges?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4252" LastActivityDate="2019-05-13T01:28:00.143" Title="Does the edge profile of a tabletop really matter?" Tags="|router-bit|tabletop|table-making|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7793" CreationDate="2018-09-30T20:08:14.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considerations to include when determining the size to make cabinets:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How large a cabinet can you easily accommodate in your shop,&#xA;transport and position onsite.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What cabinet storage areas do you want to separate from each other such as kitchen chemicals, plumbing, pots and pans (etc.) and food items. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Locations and sizes of drawers, sliding trays etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no real advantage to one option versus another other than they must be string enough and meet the needs of the specific design.  Cabinet manufacturers make smaller units because the number of options available to individual consumers are increased.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2018-09-30T20:08:14.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7797" CreationDate="2018-09-30T21:04:48.783" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question starts off with a wrong premise. The alignment of the biscuit joiner in the slots made at 2:04 is quite precise. At 1:20 to 1:28 he makes 3 pencil marks across the join line of the two pieces. He sets one aside and makes slots, using the pencil marks to align the BSCM. When done, he takes the first piece and rotates it 180 degrees so that he is looking at the corresponding pencil marks on the second piece, then aligns the BSCM to those marks and cuts slots. Since the marks meet exactly at the join line, the slots are also closely aligned, and you get precision alignment at assembly my making sure that the pencil marks form straight lines before clamping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, biscuit slots do not need to be precisely aligned side-to-side. The biscuit fits somewhat loosely in the slots. It's up to the builder to make sure that the pieces are properly aligned at glue-up. This is entirely different from using, for instance, dowels. There, the dowel-drilling phase requires extreme precision both vertically (to get the faces aligned) and laterally (to align the pieces horizontally). Biscuits make the process easier by dividing the issue into two steps. The bed of the BSCM makes the vertical alignment of the slot easy, while lateral precision is done at assembly. Rather than one operation which requires high precision in two axes, it uses two operations which are precise in one axis each. Given the lubricating quality of regular wood glue, it's relatively easy to make fine adjustments at glueup - the problem is making sure there is no shift as pressure is applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although the biscuit fits loosely in the slot, it is made of dried wood which expands as it sucks up water from the glue. This causes it to force the two pieces into vertical alignment, aided by the lubrication I've mentioned. And, in fact, this can cause problems of its own. If you join two pieces of flat stock in order to make wider piece, the expansion of the biscuit can cause the wood to bulge at the biscuits, especially with thin stock. Of course, you can sand the areas flat - but if you do this immediately after glue-up, the excess water from the glue will eventually get dried out, and you'll get depressions at the biscuits. It's not a problem with thicker wood, but you might keep it in mind for thinner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="463" LastEditorUserId="463" LastEditDate="2018-10-02T14:16:04.680" LastActivityDate="2018-10-02T14:16:04.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7802" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7803" CreationDate="2018-10-01T01:38:29.877" Score="0" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently, I am browsing a local store via mobile device app. It shows a bundle of tool, it states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bosch Go (screwdriver) + GBM 320&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bosch Go (screwdriver) + GBM 350&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will there be a difference between those two? considering woodworking also deals with some metal and concrete sometimes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5590" LastActivityDate="2018-10-01T13:08:55.563" Title="Does the wattage of the drill have to do with wood working?" Tags="|power-tools|tools|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7802" CreationDate="2018-10-01T13:08:55.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Graphus mentioned in a comment, the wattage is indicative of how powerful the drill is and more powerful drills can drill bigger holes. Per the product pages for both of the drills you mentioned, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bosch-professional.com/ng/en/drill-gbm-320-213949-06011a45k0.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GBM 320&lt;/a&gt; can drill 13mm holes in wood, while the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bosch-pt.com.my/my/en/drill-gbm-350-213949-06011a95l0.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GBM 350&lt;/a&gt; can drill 20mm holes. It gives similar specs for drilling in steel. How precise those specs are is unknown, but it gives you an indication of what you can expect from those two drills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastActivityDate="2018-10-01T13:08:55.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6285" CreationDate="2018-10-01T15:28:13.567" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just did a project using Minwax Natural stain #209.  It was suggested by one website that using the Natural stain as a first coat would help saturate the wood, so that when I put a darker stain on as a second coat, it would not penetrate so much and have so many blotches.  As per that suggestion, I don't know if it really worked that well, and if I were to do it again, I'd just buy the pre-stain conditioner instead.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;But as for the effect of the natural stain... I applied it to white pine.  After staining with the Minwax Natural, the appearance of the wood was very similar to what it would look like if the pine was just wet with water. Grain and knots look a bit darker and clear areas have just very VERY slight hint of a yellowish cast.  I skipped the stain and just put polyurethane on the shelf boards for this project - they look exactly like the piece that I applied the natural stain on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5601" LastActivityDate="2018-10-01T15:28:13.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7805" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-01T16:14:55.917" Score="1" ViewCount="2251" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I noticed a small crack (about 2 cm long) in my cutting board. I'm not sure what happened since I frequently oil my board with mineral oil. Also note that the split is not on a glue line. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then filled the gap with melted beeswax to prevent water getting inside the gap but isn't filling it with glue a better solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen that many recommend titebond 3 for this kind of repair but I was thinking that epoxy may be a better option. I'm not worried about food safety since it's a small gap on the edge of the board and food won't usually get there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&#xA;Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8HFAG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8HFAG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5609" LastActivityDate="2019-07-01T07:14:58.320" Title="Repairing small crack in cutting board" Tags="|glue|wood-repair|cutting-board|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7807" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-01T21:16:11.127" Score="1" ViewCount="483" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making some picture frames from an old table. The table top is oak slats on top of particle board. I’ve sliced the table and trimmed the slices with walnut, and cut rabbets in the frames. Like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NdMGA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NdMGAm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WD6H2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WD6H2m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cxi04.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cxi04m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prior to adding the trim, the slices are &lt;em&gt;extremely&lt;/em&gt; fragile, as the oak slats are held in place only by a few nails (most now cut off) and some drops of very old glue. I dropped one 2 feet and it split into three pieces; they can’t support their own weight if held by one end. The trim, however, takes care of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the cross sections are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dkBlR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dkBlRm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I need to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strengthen the particle board so it doesn’t chip easily.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seal it so it doesn’t expand and crumble so much in humidity or if it happens to get damp.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Surface B needs to be able to hold the adhesive from gum tape, for mounting the contents of the frame. This means it needs to be a bit smoother (the rough surface of ldf doesn’t provide much contact area), not fall apart when wet (gum tape is water activated), and not be weaker than the tape itself (tape does no good if it rips the surface itself off).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can only really do stuff to surface A and B. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I seal, strengthen, and prep the particle board surfaces?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shellac seems to make it less crumbly but isn’t good enough. Polyurethane soaks right in and doesn’t leave the surface smooth, although I suppose I could do tons of thick coats until it has a resin-filled appearance but that will take a long time and could get messy. The other thought I had was to just smear a thick layer of wood glue all over it, let it dry, and sand/route it flat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don’t really want to trim the back if I don’t have to because I don’t want the frame to be thicker and also surface A would be difficult to cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastActivityDate="2018-10-10T00:21:07.670" Title="Sealing and reinforcing particle board" Tags="|finish-selection|strength|water-protection|ldf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7808" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-01T21:20:51.560" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2018-10-01T21:20:51.560" LastActivityDate="2018-10-01T21:20:51.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7809" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-01T21:20:51.560" Score="0" Body="Low density fibreboard (LDF), also known as particle board or chipboard, is a low cost composite material made by pressing then extruding wood chips and a binder (such as resin). It is cheaper, lighter, and weaker than the related materials MDF and hardboard." OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2018-10-17T01:14:21.300" LastActivityDate="2018-10-17T01:14:21.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7810" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9791" CreationDate="2018-10-01T22:11:45.987" Score="8" ViewCount="401" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a 10$ block plane just because it had a depth adjustment knob unlike the other block plane that I had.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took it out of the box, carefully took out the blade and sharpened it using my oil stone as good as I could. Then I installed the blade and no matter how hard I tried I couldn't set the blade to protrude evenly across the width of the mouth. I had a similar issue with my other block plane which proved to be the blade not being square (the edge was not at perfectly 90 deg to the sides). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking more closely, HORROR! The mouth is bad. I mean the mouth is not square to the sides of the plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I try to repair it? If so, how would you recommend? Or should I try to take it back to the shop where I bought it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's some pics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W1x2I.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W1x2I.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/swFfS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/swFfS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9NNiX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9NNiX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks like this emoticon:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jyhGA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jyhGA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I took it back to the store the next day and obtained a refund. Will get a Juuma next time (Juuma is Luban is WoodRiver is ...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastEditorUserId="4942" LastEditDate="2019-05-29T11:06:17.453" LastActivityDate="2019-07-13T08:00:14.913" Title="Can a bad mouth plane be saved?" Tags="|plane|hand-planing|tool-repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1338" CreationDate="2018-10-02T03:50:28.530" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our shop teacher used five separate 7-1/4&quot; blades to make a dado on a 10&quot; table saw in 7th grade wood shop. He did this to show us that you could safely make a dado cut even without the specific blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5612" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-01-29T22:03:26.337" LastActivityDate="2020-01-29T22:03:26.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7812" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-03T00:31:22.650" Score="9" ViewCount="5419" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a kitchen table from a planed slab and want to round the edges over using my router and a 1/8in round-over bit. I am curious if I should sand up (80grit - 320grit) first then do my edge routing or vice-versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My intuition tells me it makes sense to sand first, since if I route first then it's possible to ruin the round edge when I go to sand. However, I could also see wanting to route first, as the edge will be sharpest and more uniform before sanding..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best path forward here or does this not matter much?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="5161" LastEditDate="2018-10-03T16:18:15.327" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T16:18:15.327" Title="In what order should I sand and route my edges?" Tags="|router|sanding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7812" CreationDate="2018-10-03T01:35:14.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have correctly identified the trade-offs. There isn't only one right way; it depends on which you value more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were in your shoes, I would probably do the routing first, and then sand. Routing can sometimes leave burn marks on the work piece. Anticipating that, I'd probably go ahead and route first, knowing that I can sand to clean it up at the end. Since you are planning on doing a round over, sanding it won't noticeably impact the crispness of the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were doing a chamfer instead, that might change my calculation a bit. Sanding at the end would leave a slight but noticeable softening of the chamfered edges. It would depend on how badly I wanted the chamfered edges to be sharp. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T01:35:14.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7812" CreationDate="2018-10-03T12:03:39.977" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually take a hybrid approach. I sand the flat surface to 150, then route the profile. Last I finish sanding to my final grit, whatever that happens to be. You do need to be a bit careful not to ruin the profile. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are worried about burning from the router bit, take a very light second pass with the router to remove the burn marks. If the pass is light enough it should not burn the wood any further. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T12:03:39.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7815" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-03T17:32:32.220" Score="1" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;New to woodworking and I am trying to get into it as a hobby while fixing up stuff around the house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YUoM5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YUoM5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Desk fix&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the above image link &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OeLXq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;(Desk fix)&lt;/a&gt;, I'm trying to fix this desk. It needs joints for the legs because it's unsturdy. I'm trying to create holes in the wood to so the screws can secure the joints, but I didn't realize how thick the wood was. Perhaps this is polywood. How do I get these screws in. Is my 20v electric drill not the right tool for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I put a lot of weight on the electric drill, the hole is just a circle and not in the shape of the screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: So if I put a lot of weight on it it makes a hole but it has no shape of the screw. It's just a like a cylinder and the screw goes in and out easily but isn't secure. It was burning smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Changed the direction of the electric drill and it works now. Feel like a dumbass!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5616" LastEditorUserId="5330" LastEditDate="2018-10-04T20:47:41.273" LastActivityDate="2018-10-04T20:47:41.273" Title="New to woodworking, appears synthetic wood(?) can't be penetrated by electric drill for adding joints" Tags="|drill-bits|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7815" CreationDate="2018-10-03T17:57:35.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This appears to be particleboard, which should drill easily with a sharp drill. I would strongly suspect a dull drill bit if you're getting a burning smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you show pictures of the screw and the drill-bit (in particular its size in comparison to the screw and perhaps a close-up of the business-end) we may be able to help you more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suppose it obvious, but the hole for a screw in wood needs to be smaller than the diameter of the screw. A drill the size of the &quot;root&quot; dimension of the screw is about right, perhaps 1/64th or so smaller is better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T17:57:35.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7815" CreationDate="2018-10-03T18:04:09.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The photo is pretty bad, but it looks like the material you're trying to screw into is particleboard.  Working with particleboard is quite different than working with other, more traditional woodworking materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your first question, there should be no problem drilling into particleboard.  You probably have a dull drill bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The major problem working with particleboard is that it is not very strong, so you'll need to use much bigger screws than you would normally use.  You'll also have to be careful with your pilot holes.  If it is too small you will start displacing material and cause the screw to fail, if it is too big you will not leave enough material for the threads to bite and the screw will fail.  Typically you want a slightly bigger pilot hole than normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T18:04:09.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7819" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-05T01:52:30.287" Score="0" ViewCount="728" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a 7x7 resin shed. Link below: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.menards.com/main/outdoors/sheds-outdoor-storage-accessories/sheds/suncast-reg-covington-reg-storage-shed-7-x-7/bms7725/p-1507530514920.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.menards.com/main/outdoors/sheds-outdoor-storage-accessories/sheds/suncast-reg-covington-reg-storage-shed-7-x-7/bms7725/p-1507530514920.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to build a base for it, I would really rather not spend $100 on 2x6's to build the base, but I don't trust a fully gravel/paver base. Could I simply put some cheap pavers directly on the ground (around 8 inches apart), and put the plywood on top of that and have the plastic floor of the shed screw directly into the plywood. This would give my shed a ridgid wood floor (underneath the plastic) and still give the plywood lift off the dirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crazy idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2784" LastActivityDate="2018-10-06T17:09:21.900" Title="7' x 7' Resin Shed Base - Plywood on blocks?" Tags="|wood|plywood|wood-selection|outdoor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7820" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-05T03:03:01.077" Score="4" ViewCount="400" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to make a larger rabbet into an 6' 4x4 similar to the below picture - but I don't have a circular saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FMl2b.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FMl2b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or would it be better to simply attach a 2x4 or 1x4 to the main piece?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5621" LastActivityDate="2018-10-05T12:23:52.317" Title="How to make a larger rabbet by hand?" Tags="|hand-tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7820" CreationDate="2018-10-05T07:44:35.367" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have three choices that I can think of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The old fashioned way.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will need a plough plane of some sort.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use it to cut a channel 3¼&quot; deep with the far edge where you need it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a chisel to remove most of the waste&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finish off the rest of the rebate with an ordinary plane.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The easy way&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy a circular saw.  They are fantastically useful and not that expensive.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The cheap way&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Removing a 3&quot;x3¼&quot; rebate from a 4x4 is throwing away an &lt;em&gt;enormous&lt;/em&gt; amount of wood.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Instead buy 4x¾ and 3¼x1 and glue/screw them together.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may need to buy 4x1 for the latter piece and use a ripsaw or plane to trim it to size (or get the woodstore to cut it).  Don't try to use a cross-cut saw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are going to attach this rabate to another 4x4, I would actually try and make it out of 5x3¾ and 8x¾ (it will give you much more to fasten to).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final point:  Beware that 4x4 planed timber is not 4&quot; across - it will be less (it was originally 4&quot; rough-sawn timber that has been planed).  Bear this in mind when composing your profile by adding bits together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/users/243/graphus&quot;&gt;Graphus&lt;/a&gt; points out that finding a plough-plane which goes 3&quot; deep may be tricky (an old wooden plough without a fence .  An alternative is a rebate (or rabbet) plane.  With that you would have to plane away the whole of the groove, but  3&quot;x3¼&quot;x6' of wood is a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of planing.  I would still try to remove as much as possible with a chisel (or even by drilling holes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1646" LastEditorUserId="1646" LastEditDate="2018-10-05T12:23:52.317" LastActivityDate="2018-10-05T12:23:52.317" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1338" CreationDate="2018-10-05T17:14:53.350" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other thing you're missing is that dado sets also come with shims to fine tune the width. This is especially important if you're using plywood, as thicknesses of plywood varies greatly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, dado sets have the middle blade with flat cutting edges so that you get flat bottoms. Look at your regular saw blades, the teeth are angled, which would create a very slight &quot;V&quot; shape on the bottom of the dado.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're doing so many dados as to warrant using multiple blades, I would encourage you to just spend the couple of extra bucks on a dado set. They're only 100 bucks or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1781" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-01-29T22:04:27.263" LastActivityDate="2020-01-29T22:04:27.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7791" CreationDate="2018-10-05T17:16:45.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's caused by some sort of contaminant getting on the surface (perhaps a glue drip?)  While sanding will work, I find the best thing to do is to use a wood scraper such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rockler.com/cabinet-scraper-set?sid=V9146?utm_source=google&amp;amp;utm_medium=cpc&amp;amp;utm_term=&amp;amp;utm_content=pla&amp;amp;utm_campaign=PL&amp;amp;gclid=Cj0KCQjwl9zdBRDgARIsAL5Nyn0UVYOhD9Q4JME7ThqipHbXHUIx1aUns2AFYLwSveVD50lEUg6Rf-waAtCVEALw_wcB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these scrapers&lt;/a&gt; to isolate the removal of the substance to just the area (instead of the whole table).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1781" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2018-10-17T12:52:48.877" LastActivityDate="2018-10-17T12:52:48.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7824" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-05T23:14:47.393" Score="2" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remembered I saw a video/picture about cabinet equipped with a sliding door, just like window shades was installed vertically all around the cabinet. You can slide the window shades like door (made from many pieces of wood) to open the cabinet. But I couldn't find the link anymore. Please direct me to the link if you happen to know it. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Here is what I can find that is close to my recollection: &lt;a href=&quot;https://image.rakuten.co.jp/ffws/cabinet/d_item9/s0500602_img05.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://image.rakuten.co.jp/ffws/cabinet/d_item9/s0500602_img05.gif&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sliding bellow in the above gif file seems a little bulky to me. I hope the leaves of the bellow is much thinner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5385" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2018-10-18T19:21:30.083" LastActivityDate="2018-10-18T19:21:30.083" Title="What is this sliding cabinet door with &quot;shades&quot; called, and where can I find info on it?" Tags="|tool-identification|cabinetry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7824" CreationDate="2018-10-05T23:52:41.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you referring to a &quot;tambour door&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QYeAn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QYeAn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2018-10-05T23:52:41.730" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7819" CreationDate="2018-10-06T17:09:21.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used cinder blocks, buried but standing about 4 &quot; above the soil.I layed treated 2 X 4 on the cinder block with no anchoring ( no wind concern). I spill a lot of water so I made floor of house brick , no mortar. It has worked well for 15 years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3966" LastActivityDate="2018-10-06T17:09:21.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1385" CreationDate="2018-10-07T00:55:42.503" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given any box or drawer finger joint height, W, you must custom size the width of the fingers for it. To do this you decide you want the fingers at the top and bottom configured. As said above, you will have an odd number of fingers on any side that has both both top and bottom fingers on the same side, so if &quot;f&quot; equals the width of both fingers and slots on either piece, where we want a whole number integer of fingers and &quot;slots&quot; then for n=3 then f=5; n=4--&gt;f=7; n=5--&gt;f=9; n=6--&gt;f=11; etc. Note we can say that for a given integer n, that f=n+(n-1). That reduces to f=2n-1, and f(2n-1) must equal W. Chose any f depending on how big or small you want your equal fingers to be. This needs some thinking by the questioner, but just know that you will VIRTUALLY NEVER get a whole nice number of fingers to fit into a given width with a nice neat finger width size. For example, lets say that &quot;W&quot; is equal to the height of drawer we want to be 8&quot; high on the sides. Logically thinking about it, we will pick a &quot;nice&quot; n for the joint, say 14. So for an f of fourteen we get f=27. W/f therefore is 0.296&quot;. If you make the fingers 0.296&quot; wide, then you can get a perfect number of them, 14 fingers on the drawer side or end that has whole outside fingers at both top and bottom and 14 matching &quot;slots&quot; on the drawer side or end that has a &quot;slot&quot; at top and bottom and ALL the fingers and slots will be the exact same width! Note that the side that has the &quot;slots&quot; at top and bottom has one less projecting finger than does the side that will be joined to it! There's no way around it, ya'gotta do the math. Best way to understand this is to draw a drawing and study it if you can't accept it. If you look at it long enough, you can see that the side with the &quot;outside fingers&quot; has to have one more projecting finger than the joining side that has the &quot;outside slots&quot; at top and bottom, and THAT is what makes it so that the width of the fingers plus width of the slots, whose total MUST be equal to W, must be of a common width that will result in 2n-1 being a whole integer. Being an &quot;integer&quot; means a whole number of fingers and slots that are not fractional. Making tops and bottoms a half finger is attacking the problem from another direction. Enough, huh? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5624" LastEditorUserId="5624" LastEditDate="2018-10-07T04:45:40.417" LastActivityDate="2018-10-07T04:45:40.417" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7831" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7837" CreationDate="2018-10-07T17:45:36.417" Score="2" ViewCount="13315" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an outdoor bench that came with instructions to coat it with teak oil once a year.  I've done the teak oil one year so far.  If I put on another coat of teak oil this year, do you think I can also put a clear-coat polyeurethane layer on top of that, once the teak cures and is ready for regular use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5627" LastEditorUserId="5627" LastEditDate="2018-10-08T20:17:11.160" LastActivityDate="2018-10-09T12:11:54.783" Title="Can I put a clear polyeurethane coat on top of teak oil?" Tags="|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7832" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-07T19:45:15.090" Score="1" ViewCount="240" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will be using a water-borne finish on red oak and want the natural red colour you get when using an oil finish. How can I achieve this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2018-10-08T19:07:20.747" LastActivityDate="2019-09-03T23:02:00.243" Title="Water-borne finish on red oak and want the natural red colour you get using oil finish" Tags="|staining|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7832" CreationDate="2018-10-08T12:24:27.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing to mention up front in case you're unaware, the oak itself will naturally change colour over time. All oaks (along with the majority of wood species, which are lighter or mid-coloured) are significantly lighter when new and freshly worked — the wood may be referred to as being &quot;in the white&quot; at this stage because of how light it appears — and will darken, sometimes dramatically, with exposure to light&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; and air. In addition, red oak also ambers slightly over time&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. While your oak will never be the same colour it would be if you use an oil finish it will tend towards that colouring somewhat by itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want that exact look immediately you have a few choices:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Treat the wood with oil (BLO being the usual choice, and arguably the best) and then use waterbased finish on top, if necessary using shellac as a 'bridge' finish.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stain the wood, then use the waterbased finish.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a coloured waterbased finish. These can be bought or homemade.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use an oil-modified waterbased finish. I mention this last as these darken the wood somewhat like oil-based varnishes do, but, not quite as much. So if you're fussy about the colouring this type of finish might not cut it for you. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see there's a lot to pick from here and there's additional time, money and effort required in most cases. On top of that for most of these some experimentation will be required to achieve your desired result. If you're asking in relation to a one-off project then you have to ask yourself if it's really worth it (especially since you might not nail the colour first time) when you could achieve the desired end result much more directly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't go with a waterbased finish and use oil-based varnish to begin with.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless I had no other choice this is the option I would favour. This is partly because I get on with oil-based finishes and have lots more experience using them for wood finishing anyway, but it's also because I love how they make wood look which seems to be the case for you too. And one of the most important factors when choosing a finish is how you want the piece to end up looking. For many this is the &lt;em&gt;most&lt;/em&gt; important aspect&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; and it comes first, so there is at least one good reason to use an oil-based finish when you want that specific look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If an oil-based varnish is not an option for you, for whatever reason(s), then the first alternative listed above would be the route I would recommend as it doesn't require experimentation, and costs least up front. An additional benefit is you'll now have BLO (and maybe shellac) in stock which will prove very useful over time, and not just in wood finishing as both have additional uses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Cherry is perhaps the most famous species for this effect these days, getting significantly darker and redder (very quickly) with direct sun exposure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Most woods that are slightly reddish or pink undergo similar changes. Strongly orange species like padauk will disappointingly go a much more drab brown with light and air exposure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Durability should be the primary decider in some cases however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-10-08T12:24:27.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7834" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7835" CreationDate="2018-10-08T22:00:57.827" Score="7" ViewCount="633" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a good deal of wood scraps from other projects laying about and am thinking of making a colored epoxy table, something like this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LEKf0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LEKf0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where the blocks are my scraps, the area between will be filled with epoxy, and the outside would be steel or iron (going for a modern industrial look). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually don't frame tables, but then again, this is the first one where I'd be filling it with epoxy as opposed to running full length boards. So, the question is: with this type of build, do I need to be concerned about wood expansion and the wood possibly bowing up? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5460" LastActivityDate="2018-10-12T20:39:21.357" Title="Metal framed wood table, will expansion be an issue?" Tags="|tabletop|table-making|moisture|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7834" CreationDate="2018-10-08T22:16:37.827" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would be quite concerned with wood movement in this design.  You will be bonding epoxy (which doesn't move seasonally) directly to the end grain of wood.  Since the wood will be expanding and contracting but the epoxy won't I would expect one or the other (or both) to crack or buckle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest either redesigning the piece so that the epoxy is bonded to the sides of the boards instead of the ends or decoupling the center section from the boards (i.e. change it to a piece of glass resting on rabbets on the end of each board.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you will need to make sure that there is some mechanism for expansion of the wood in the metal frame.  For example, the frame could be made of C-channel with the open side facing in and the boards float inside it with some room for expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2018-10-08T22:16:37.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7831" CreationDate="2018-10-09T12:11:54.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First in case you don't know &quot;teak oil&quot;, like &quot;Danish oil&quot;, is just a marketing name for a finish various companies make. There's no legal definition of either name so what is in the container can literally be nearly anything each manufacturer decides to put in it. But generically, products sold under these names are oil finishes that are blends of oil with some varnish, then heavily diluted plus often with added drying agents so they dry reliably fast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;do you think I can also put a clear-coat polyeurethane layer on top of that, once the teak cures and is ready for regular use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In principle, the answer is yes, you can successfully apply other finishes on top of wood that was previously treated with an oil or oil finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in this case it's likely not advisable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As this is an exterior piece unless the other finish is specifically intended for exterior applications it shouldn't be used for that application. Interior finishes that aren't durable outdoors will readily break down and can discolour, go cloudy, crack or craze, peel or flake. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do want to apply a glossy clear finish to the bench the thing to use is a spar varnish or a marine varnish (the latter being more durable). But note these are all very strongly yellow/amber because of their high oil content and they impart that colouring to anything they're used on, as seen on most boat woodwork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*As long as there isn't a film of the oil left on the surface of the wood (which there shouldn't be, with any finish of this kind all excess is intended to be wiped from the wood each time it's applied).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-10-09T12:11:54.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7839" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-09T17:39:03.267" Score="5" ViewCount="320" Body="&lt;p&gt;I picked this up at a local 2nd hand store. It is 20&quot;x2&quot;x1/2&quot;, cast iron. The holes go from 1/8&quot; to 3/4&quot; diameter. Years ago, I helped a friend put a post &amp;amp; beam addition on his home. All Dovetail, scarf joints, etc., with homemade oak dowels. He made the dowels by taking split square pieces of seasoned oak and pounding them thru a large hole in a thick piece of metal he had made, shaving off the outer edges. He had holes decreasing in diameter until it was the 3/4&quot; he wanted. This looks like the same idea. But starting at 3/4&quot; and possibly ending at 1/8&quot;, or whichever size was desired. Is this what I think or am I off base?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fkK9I.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fkK9I.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ub63o.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ub63o.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I added a profile shot to show it's thickness, this looks like old cast iron, I see no marks to identify the manufacturer, is this common to not have a manufacturer on the cast? Is there a way to figure out hold old this is? When did they stop making these out of cast iron?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for all of your feedback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5639" LastEditorUserId="5639" LastEditDate="2018-10-09T22:32:46.450" LastActivityDate="2018-10-09T22:32:46.450" Title="Antique Dowel Maker?" Tags="|tool-identification|dowel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7840" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-09T18:22:49.807" Score="10" ViewCount="1020" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am dimensioning aprons for a table with handtools, and trying to correct the four boards to have the same equal thickness over their entire length. I'm trying to minimize problems with uneven margins in the joinery later on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current approach is to make a template, where all faces are trued and square, and record its thickness with a marking (mortise) gauge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the N-1 other boards, I true one face and square the edges, and then mark a line with the set marking gauge around the board, using the first face as a reference. I then proceed to carefully plane the remaining face down to the line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I often end up with some minute thickness variation along the length of the boards. I think it is due to the marking pin leaving a mark that is too large, or because I allow the gauge to lift or slip from the reference face. Are there other hand-tools or techniques offering more fidelity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can correct this by planing many boards together in the vice after they're squared, or after a panel's glue-up, but one drawback is that the final thickness is strictly smaller than the set thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2018-10-24T04:50:56.213" LastActivityDate="2018-10-24T04:50:56.213" Title="How to handplane many boards to the same dimensions" Tags="|hand-tools|hand-planing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7839" CreationDate="2018-10-09T18:49:51.587" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is called a dowel plate, and several manufacturers sell them nowadays - e.g., &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/dowel-plate-standard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lie-Nielsen&lt;/a&gt;. You could also make your own, which might be what you have there. You are spot on with the usage - pound a piece of square stock through the holes in decreasing diameter until your dowel is the size you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastActivityDate="2018-10-09T18:49:51.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7840" CreationDate="2018-10-09T20:32:06.163" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I often end up with some minute thickness variation along the length of the boards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is hand-tool woodworking, some variation from part to part is par for the course. We aren't machines after all&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. So if the variations you're getting are already minute you're ahead of the game :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regard to apron pieces, there's a bit of a dirty secret in that all four don't actually have to be the same thickness. This seems like an excuse for sloppy stock prep but sometimes it's necessary, e.g. to use the pieces you've prepped even if something unexpected happens like some tearout at the last stage of planing. Or, you have a limited supply of a given wood with the right figure, matching colour, or it's just a rare species. In either case, if one or more boards start out, or end up, thinner than the others then you just need to go with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What really matters with aprons is whether they &lt;em&gt;appear&lt;/em&gt; to be even, which is down to them being flush to the legs, or set back an equal amount. So if you have some variation in thickness piece to piece you just mark out for the joinery on the legs to suit the thickness of each part and proceed accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are there other hand-tools or techniques offering more fidelity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a fairly standard modification&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; that allows the pins in marking gauges to cut a finer and more refined line or you can use a cutting gauge instead (or a wheel gauge, which is a type of cutting gauge). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But even with regular pins the mark left by a marking gauge can be quite neat if you use good technique and as long as the pins are good and sharp. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wood used does matter a lot here, it's actually really hard to get consistently clean lines in softwoods because the pin will easily sink into the soft earlywood but much less so into the harder latewood. And open-grained hardwoods like ash, oak or sapele are a bit more challenging to mark than close-grained woods like maple or beech with their more uniform texture and smoother surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I can correct this by planing many boards together in the vice after they're squared, or after a panel glue-up, but one drawback is that the final thickness is strictly smaller than the set thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also fine, as again the intended final thickness isn't written in stone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if it bothers you having the pieces end up thinner — and it's fine to be a bit OCD about this sort of thing! — you might consider doing this procedure as part of your standard stock preparation rather than it being an additional step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW for glued-up panels for many it is absolutely normal to do the final evening up/flattening/smoothing afterwards, as even using cauls or internal alignment aids you can't always guarantee every board will be dead flush with one or both of its neighbours — which is a must, even a 0.05mm / 1/500&quot; discrepancy can be easily felt with the fingers even if not easily visible!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; But because we're dealing in wood &lt;em&gt;even if you did size parts by machine they can end up varying somewhat&lt;/em&gt;, because of differential wood movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rIlsP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rIlsP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Marking gauge pin modification&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Source:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://thevalleywoodworker.blogspot.com/2015/03/using-marking-gauges.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Using marking gauges&lt;/a&gt; on The Valley Woodworker blog.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2018-10-10T11:51:55.543" LastActivityDate="2018-10-10T11:51:55.543" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7843" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-09T22:50:49.520" Score="5" ViewCount="9932" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bench has a 2x4 edge and if I line up the vise where the inner claw is flush so I can mount things vertically, then a little of the vise overhangs a little. Would this not be proper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I push it back to remove the overhang then the mounting holes sit between the 2x4 and top wood which wouldn’t make for a sturdy mount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MHM5s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MHM5s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yGczB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yGczB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Update&lt;/em&gt; Pics of the install. I’m pleased with the outcome. Added 2” thick piece of wood for the back bolt to go through as well rather than just the OSB board. Over all it seems rigid enough to take on any future projects I may need it for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vjwTL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vjwTL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xPNVP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xPNVP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/esRp9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/esRp9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5261" LastEditorUserId="5261" LastEditDate="2020-07-19T20:30:01.970" LastActivityDate="2020-07-19T20:30:01.970" Title="Best way to mount bench vise for my particular bench?" Tags="|workbench|vises|mounting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7807" CreationDate="2018-10-10T00:21:07.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would think wood harder that is available from most home centers would help. Bit a good thin capitalized resin or epoxy would defiantly work it is water thin, should be available from boat supply retailer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2018-10-10T00:21:07.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7840" CreationDate="2018-10-10T19:08:25.293" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another method to easily ensure equal thickness with a handplane is to put your board (with the already-flattened reference face down) between two runners that have been precisely thicknessed to your desired dimension.  You then rest your plane's toe and heel on the runners and they will serve as depth stops, preventing the plane from going any deeper than their thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may also help to add spacers between the rails and your work piece to make it easier to avoid planing the rails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, this can only apply to fairly narrow boards, as even a jointer plane can only reasonably span a few inches before the skew angle becomes too extreme.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For very narrow pieces you can also do the same thing with a groove of a precise depth in a wider board.  Just make sure that the plane is fenced in to keep it aligned laterally, as now the edges of the plane will be the reference surface, and any lateral drift will cut down the part of the board they rest on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2018-10-10T19:08:25.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7847" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-11T03:40:13.467" Score="2" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8XTwX.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://jenwoodhouse.com/plans/Triple-Bunk-Bed.pdf?utm_source=MadMimi&amp;amp;utm_medium=email&amp;amp;utm_content=Triple+Bunk+Bed+PLANS%21&amp;amp;utm_campaign=20180813_m146673541_Triple+Bunk+Bed&amp;amp;utm_term=++CLICK+TO+DOWNLOAD+PDF+PLANS++&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pdf link to plan&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am planning to build this triple bunk this weekend. I plan to add “cleats” (not sure if this is the correct word) in the form of 2inx4in’s between the sections, on the inner side of the support posts. The bed frame will be resting on these cleats with the bed frame and the cleats glued and screwed into the long corner posts. Does this sound like satisfactory structural support if the bed were occupied by large adults? We are trying to avoid the bed frames becoming victim to a sheer force disaster and collapsing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5647" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2018-10-11T10:03:28.577" LastActivityDate="2018-10-11T10:14:25.870" Title="Triple bunk bed design safety and difficulty" Tags="|screws|weight-capacity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7847" CreationDate="2018-10-11T10:14:25.870" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the plans they use carriage bolts to attach the bed frame to the uprights. These are very resistant to sheer loads. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://jenwoodhouse.com/triple-bunk-bed/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;article on the website&lt;/a&gt; also shows a strength test with a full sized adult. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your idea of adding supports is the same principle of jack studs in house framing. You can screw and glue the &quot;scrap&quot; 2x4s cut to 29 3/4 inches they suggest as spacers as the permanent supports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also if you have the tools you may whish to upgrade from pocket hole screws to dowels or mortise &amp;amp; tenon &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2018-10-11T10:14:25.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7843" CreationDate="2018-10-11T11:44:48.027" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where you have your vice placed for the photos is pretty much exactly where I'd mount it, in addition to the front-back placement being ideal it appears to be nearly directly over a leg which gives plenty of support for any heavier work you may do on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes, it is perfectly fine to mount a vice with a little (and sometimes a bit more than that!) of the base projecting beyond the edge of the workbench:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nc9PI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nc9PI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Metalworking vices, edge mounting&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look around any metalworking or machinists' forum you will have no difficulty finding pictures of vices that are mounted well back from the edge of the bench and sometimes this is deliberate, but too often it is because the user didn't realise that if you don't have the vice mounted far enough forward, so that the back jaw is &lt;em&gt;at least&lt;/em&gt; flush with the bench edge, you can never clamp workpieces like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fh2V9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fh2V9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Flush rear jaw on vice allows clamping of longer pieces&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your positioning is pretty much set, but for future readers it's generally a good idea to give yourself a little extra room if possible so that the rear jaw projects a smidge beyond the bench edge, the reason being at some point you might fit new vice jaws that are a little thinner than the current ones and you don't lose the above advantage if you do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Couple of additional points&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When it comes time to bolt your vice to your bench don't forget your washers, they're especially important up top but you may want to use them underneath also. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest you pack out the rear mounting lug to level the vice out. It isn't absolutely necessary to do this, but it's good general practice to have a vice level both left to right and front to back. You can somewhat surprisingly use card for this — make the packing a little over-thick and it'll compress down when you tighten that nut and afterwards remain remarkably stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-10-11T11:44:48.027" CommentCount="24" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="754" CreationDate="2018-10-11T17:16:02.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commented on one of the answers and mentioned Mattias Wandel's pantorouter.  Somebody else said I should add it as an answer, so here it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wandel's pantograph is a more complex take on a typical router pantograph, only horizontal and with plunge so you can do multiple passes and variable depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, Wandel's website (which has lots of fun woodworking projects, btw):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://woodgears.ca/pantorouter/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://woodgears.ca/pantorouter/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wandel actually started with this simpler (but still pretty nifty) slot mortiser:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sw0FDdIWds4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sw0FDdIWds4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I like about both this mortiser and the pantograph, compared to the many other slot mortiser designs I've seen, is that they make it much easier to make larger mortises.  I mess around with viking-style furniture based on the Oseberg bed ( &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.currentmiddleages.org/tents/osbergbed.PDF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.currentmiddleages.org/tents/osbergbed.PDF&lt;/a&gt; ) which requires a lot of mortise &amp;amp; tenon joints that are much, much larger than most of the stuff I can find on M&amp;amp;T.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, Wandel's slot mortiser only does simple rectangular holes.  The pantorouter can do complex shapes, just like any pantograph, and you can use it to do both mortises and tenons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, note also that Wandel's pantograph has a 2-1 size ratio, i.e. you cut the pattern twice as big as the actual result.  This is nice because it shrinks any errors in your pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's one of Wandel's videos that I found to be the most effective demonstration of the pantorouter.  I added a time parameter to jump to 4:12 where he cuts a tenon and then a matching mortise.  Watch it from the start if you want more detail:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Apovqke6KYQ&amp;amp;t=4m12s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Apovqke6KYQ&amp;amp;t=4m12s&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here's a video where he explains how the pantorouter design works:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wZ1v4PIsYI&amp;amp;t=40s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wZ1v4PIsYI&amp;amp;t=40s&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He has lots of other videos that go into building it, etc, like this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J_72hOY2vPg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J_72hOY2vPg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of Wandel's fans started producing (with his permission) pantorouters made from metal.  Last I looked they were $1200 and had to be shipped from Japan, but that was a few years ago.  A quick google just turned up this video Wandel did, explaining how to assemble it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vy7STrsqzU4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vy7STrsqzU4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've always wanted to build one of these, but then again this doesn't look like a trivial project at my skill level.  I mean, the reason I want to build one is that I'm &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; that good at woodworking :-).  And I'm more interested in the result (building stuff I can use) than in the process.  Don't get me wrong, I'd &lt;em&gt;like&lt;/em&gt; to be highly skilled at this stuff, but clearly spending the actual time and energy required to get there has not yet made it to the top of my priority list :-).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2093" LastEditorUserId="2093" LastEditDate="2023-08-31T23:52:01.627" LastActivityDate="2023-08-31T23:52:01.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7851" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-12T00:02:23.000" Score="2" ViewCount="63" Body="&lt;p&gt;In middle of staining stair treads, the stain isn’t dark enough and can see the wood putty underneath. Do I just go darker with next coat-different shade? Or do I need to re sand and use wood conditioner to even it out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5650" LastActivityDate="2018-10-12T00:02:23.000" Title="Stairs-stain color Jacobean Miniwax" Tags="|wood|staining|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7834" CreationDate="2018-10-12T20:39:21.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've only done small scale surfaces like this, but if the epoxy completely surrounds the wood (i.e. put a layer of epoxy down first, then the wood, then fill over it with a gap between the frame and wood that the epoxy fills) I haven't seen any noticeable expansion/contraction because there is no change in humidity inside the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Admittedly this is also for pieces that are inside, so temperature is a fairly constant 65-75 degrees year round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like the glass idea at the end of each piece with expansion gaps hidden by the frame as well - I'll have to steal that one myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5653" LastActivityDate="2018-10-12T20:39:21.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7853" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-13T17:06:56.410" Score="4" ViewCount="551" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a frame for a heavy antique mirror that is 54&quot; by 16&quot; by 1/4&quot; thick. Currently, I have glued up the frame. It consists of four lap jointed 2x4's.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hM8kJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hM8kJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mirror Frame&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the glue had dried, the frame did not sit flat on the bench. When I held one corner down, the adjacent corner rose 5/8&quot; off the bench. This indicated the frame was not square, so I investigated further with winding sticks.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E9Pux.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E9Pux.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;winding sticks&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The frame is indeed out of square. It is twisted.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sEnoa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sEnoa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;twisted frame&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;The next step in the in the build process is to use a router to cut a 1/4&quot; rabbet that will accept the mirror. This rabbet will be cut with an upcut bit spun by a plunge router with an edge guide.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rgeGH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rgeGH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;router&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Before I proceed with cutting the rabbet, should I fix the twist in the frame? I have identified several options, but as I have never dealt a work piece that is this far out of square, I am not sure what to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do nothing, force the mirror to flex to adapt to the twisted frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a router and jointing plane to remove material until the winding stick are parallel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut the rabbet deeper in the corners that are twisted up to accommodate the mirror.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best option, is there an option that I have overlooked?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided to proceed with this twisted work-piece. The next step was to cut a rabbet for the mirror to sit in. After cutting this rabbet, the frame was noticeably less twisted. Lots of material was removed, apparently some internal stresses in the wood were twisting the frame:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rU0ea.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rU0ea.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rabbet in frame&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After cutting the rabbet, I gave the mirror a test fit. It looked pretty good. The mirror weights around 40 lbs, and after test fitting the mirror, I decided that the frame needed a brace. When gluing the brace, I warped the frame a little past level:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cSLGf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cSLGf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;brace on frame&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Checking again with the winding sticks, the frame looks like it's nearly perfect:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6QhIS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6QhIS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;level winding sticks&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In retrospect, I definitely recommend trying to salvage a twisted glue up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5389" LastEditorUserId="5389" LastEditDate="2018-10-17T20:33:26.873" LastActivityDate="2018-10-17T20:33:26.873" Title="How to mount mirror in wood frame that is not square?" Tags="|twist|square|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7853" CreationDate="2018-10-13T19:26:09.867" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A flexed mirror, even if it doesn't break, will distort the image one sees in the mirror, generally in an way that is not pleasing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the size of the twist, I'd say the best course is to salvage what you can and start over. Otherwise it's good money (time) after bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wood appears to be construction-grade, you might consider upgrading or otherwise being very selective in the pieces you choose. I see at least one knot; that's a no-no for stability. What you're looking for is straight grain and the absence of &lt;em&gt;reaction wood&lt;/em&gt;. That's the bits where the grain goes curvy around a knot or other discontinuity in the tree, like maybe a fork or whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't find full-sized pieces with those characteristics, consider gluing up from narrower sticks. In my Home Depot, the 2x2s tend to have tighter, straighter grain than the 2x4s, possibly because they would go all wonky with a big knot in the middle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have the blanks, make sure they are jointed dead flat and brought to a consistent thickness such that front and back are perfectly parallel. After milling them like this, leave in an environment similar to their ultimate home for a week or so and make sure they don't move as they acclimate moisture-wise. If the pieces aren't dead flat before joining, they won't be flat after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, your joints (lap joints here it looks like) need to be dead true so they don't introduce twist. Definitely clamp in a square/flat position while the glue is drying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2018-10-13T19:26:09.867" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7856" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7857" CreationDate="2018-10-14T23:10:30.870" Score="5" ViewCount="1265" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a panel made from recycled lumber - there are a number of 10mm holes from some sort of fixtures in the woods previous life. These are not nail holes, but clean drilled out holes. I'm not wanting to end up with a rustic / reclaimed look so I want to hide these holes as much as possible. There are a number of holes surrounded by highly figured grain - cutting out patches to match would be very hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some furniture repair hard wax sticks that with some experimentation do an exceptionally good job of hiding the holes with minimal effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I apply a finish safely over top of these wax patches?  Intuitively I think poly wouldn't stick too well to the wax, so I'm leaning towards doing a shellac wash coat first.  Is there something else I should be considering?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on doing a few test pieces first, but ideally would like to be sure that this is not only going be okay initially, but will also not flake off (or similar) a few years down the track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="282" LastEditorUserId="5389" LastEditDate="2018-10-15T02:20:06.317" LastActivityDate="2018-10-15T14:00:14.130" Title="Applying finish over furniture repair wax" Tags="|finishing|polyurethane|shellac|wax|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7856" CreationDate="2018-10-15T14:00:14.130" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can I apply a finish safely over top of these wax patches?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given their size (10mm diameter is a pretty big wax fill for finish to bridge over) and that it seems there are quite a few I think there's a good chance that you might run into a problem down the line, even with the very hard composition of most wax sticks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However that's just my thinking and you have something that already gives a result you're happy with visually, and you're already set on doing some tests before going ahead, so let's start with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Using what you have&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;After doing the fills I think your idea to use shellac first prior to the poly is very good, given shellac's justified reputation for being an excellent intermediate between dissimilar materials and that it's rather famed for sticking to nearly anything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make sure the wax surface isn't too smooth (which is all too easy to achieve if you finish off cleanup up the wax by buffing the surface with cloth, which is fairly commonly recommended). Much better to leave the wax surface with some texture to give the shellac as much to cling to as possible, so when fully flushed do one final sanding using whatever your chosen finishing grit is.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;IF you have the option, use a shellac that is neither dewaxed nor bleached. The more highly processed shellac is the further it is removed from its original much-vaunted qualities&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alternatives&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It's usually a better idea with any sizeable void in wood to fill with wood when possible, and since these are drilled holes of course you can easily make face-grain patches by using a plug cutter&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. However even at the best of times plugs often don't give a completely invisible result and with highly figured grain by some of the holes you'd need to do some careful touch-up work&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; to even get close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative worth considering is deliberately going for contrasting plugs and not trying to hide them at all. Going one stage further you could forget that you have neat holes and go for Dutchmen patches for some (or all, with varied shapes if you like). These are honest repairs to material with surface defects and they have a long history, so in many ways they are &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; woodworker solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One final thing you might want to consider is using epoxy mixtures in place of the wax. There's no reason you can't get a result at least as good as with the wax sticks using coloured epoxy and the repairs will be much stronger, plus the material is known to be more finish-friendly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; And if it's a concern, oil-based varnishes have absolutely no difficulty in sticking well to shellacs that haven't been dewaxed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; A tapered-plug cutter is best since these ensure the tightest fit (minimising the chances of a visible glue-line ring).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; After cutting the plugs from plain/featureless wood it's then ossible to mimic both the grain (by scoring/cutting) and colouration (using oil paints, coloured shellac, tinted finishes, even coloured pencils). But it's not easy to get an invisible result this way, even with prior experience, and missing the mark can make the attempted repair look amateurish which are two reasons why I would personally favour not going this route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-10-15T14:00:14.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7858" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-15T17:21:52.920" Score="0" ViewCount="163" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 3 2X4 walls 16&quot; high 30&quot; long and 3/4 inch MDF plywood top. How can I figure its load support capabilities? What I'm doing is building a platform to put a washer and dryer on and need this to be able to support a full washer with water.&#xA; Under the platform I will be putting 2 slide out draws. Can anyone help me with calculating the support weight load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5662" LastActivityDate="2018-10-26T16:48:45.683" Title="Trying to determine support weight" Tags="|strength|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7858" CreationDate="2018-10-15T19:47:59.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;TL;DR&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 2x4 carcase with a 3/4 in. MDF top is probably not going to work. It's hard to say for sure, but unless that MDF can transfer the loads directly to a component that transfers the load to the floor, this is going to fail eventually. MDF does not have great elastic load handling ability (it doesn't like to bend without catastrophic failure or weakening). Also, unless you are using some sort of marine-grade material, as it gets wet over time it will get weaker and weaker until it fails suddenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Essay Answer&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: I am not an engineer! Static and dynamic loading of lumber structures is a complicated subject that I have no expertise in. For anything non-trivial we have to consider all sorts of loading and elasticity factors, and how that affects the various shear and compression limits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, most civil engineering is collected wisdom, usually collected as a result of premature and sudden failures. And since we are talking about white goods here (and, say, not a bridge) we can make some edumacated guesses without raising the ire of any trained engineers who stumble upon this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a lot of published information on the compression or shear limits of lumber, both with and perpendicular to the grain. For instance &lt;a href=&quot;https://courses.cit.cornell.edu/arch264/calculators/example7.1/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cornell has published a wood column calculator&lt;/a&gt;. There are other sites that break down the various compression and shear values of typical hard- and soft-woods, so definitely do some web searches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, at the end of the day, even softwood has pretty good with-grain compression values - thousands of pounds per square inch - that you should be able to design a reasonably robust carcase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would approach this in two ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Static loading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the white goods as a dead load, think about transferring the &lt;strong&gt;maximum&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;strong&gt;wet&lt;/strong&gt; mass from the four legs of each &lt;em&gt;directly&lt;/em&gt; to components within the carcase directly to the floor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try not to bridge or cantilever the mass. The idea is that you are sort of extending the feet &lt;em&gt;through&lt;/em&gt; the carcase to the floor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Design your drawers, etc., around these extensions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You could even augment or replace these extensions with steel or iron components because those materials have pretty good compressive load strength.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Think about how posts, etc. transfer the mass of a deck or floor into the ground, ideally without twisting or bowing. Now imagine a small deck that was a tiny dance floor where two heavy dancers &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; knew how to do the jitterbug...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dynamic loading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Modern washers &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; test structures sensitive to vibration and torque!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Build your carcase so it has very positive connections to the white goods, and allow yourself the ability to level the appliance easily (this is going to be your largest challenge).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The point being that a washerful of cotton linens set to wash with extra water, long wash cycle, and high-speed spin is going to teach anything you build about how centripetal force works.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unless you really have to, don't try to build in leveling to your design; let the washer level itself as part of its mating with the stand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Because your carcase is now the actual feet of the washer, all those things that apply to washer feet (how sticky it is, how it wants to move across the surface) should be part of your design.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most washer feet come to a rather small diameter. Is this important? Would a flat 4x4 foot want to rock, or transfer more unwanted vibration to the floor? I have &lt;strong&gt;no idea&lt;/strong&gt;! But vibration mitigation is its own arcane science, so maybe try to steal some ideas from existing designs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, I've written a lot of fancy words here. What does this mean? What are some of the back-of-the-envelope things we can come up with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, Something like a 4x4 or even a 2x4, properly braced internally against twisting on at least two planes &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be sufficient as a with-grain load transfer component. Attention to how the carcase interfaces with the white goods, and how it interfaces with the floor is an important part of this. Reading the appliance specs and making sure they are proper distances from each other (if side-by-side)  and walls is something you want to get right &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; you start making sawdust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd design this so that any drawer components are &quot;floating&quot;, and not part of the mass-transfer carcase. You are building appliance feet extenders that &lt;em&gt;happen&lt;/em&gt; to have some hollow spaces for storage space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, the overall height of your design might be significant. I'm not sure if this is a consideration in this case, but vibration is often a function of overall length of moving components. Are we working with material and forces here that could set up a standing wave? I'm guessing no one in your house wants an otherwise safe washer platform that has the side-effect of vibrating the dishes out of the cupboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2018-10-26T16:48:45.683" LastActivityDate="2018-10-26T16:48:45.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7861" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-16T08:41:36.327" Score="5" ViewCount="1292" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the usual steps to carve out a non-90degree mortise that will be married to a sliding wedge/key? Should the wedge be cut first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When chiseling a usual mortise, plumb can be used as the reference. In tusk-tenons, the angle is generally kept low to prevent the wedge to slip out -- but much lower than the bevels on most chisels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've thought of different options to guide the carving, from a pilot drill hole, to a workpiece jig (that allows the chisel to be held plumb), or an angled guide block (against which the chisel can slide up and down), to altering the walls of a square mortise with a rasp. Can it be simpler than that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples of angled mortises:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7L9fxm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7L9fxm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;tusk mortise&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3DZFrm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3DZFrm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Note: Tusks for locking shelves, or tusks for locking moravian workbench legs.&#xA; &lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are ways to avoid the angled wall, but they're not what I'm looking for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.ca/books?id=ZkcOr6_g0f4C&amp;amp;pg=PA375&amp;amp;lpg=PA375&amp;amp;redir_esc=y#v=onepage&amp;amp;q&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Folding wedges&lt;/a&gt;, which allows the &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/q/735/3259&quot;&gt;usual mortising method&lt;/a&gt;, but gives a different look.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In the second image (&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodandshop.com/the-portable-moravian-workbench-at-the-woodwrights-school/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Moravian bench&lt;/a&gt;), it would be possible to use a router to make space in the center of the laminated tenon. Like an inlay plane.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;: I've found video material online which describes one way to cut these mortises, and included links in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/7867/3259&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2018-10-16T23:02:59.710" LastActivityDate="2018-10-16T23:02:59.710" Title="Are mortises with angled walls cut the same way as square mortises (handtools)?" Tags="|joinery|hand-tools|mortise-and-tenon|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7861" CreationDate="2018-10-16T11:42:32.227" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thing with hand tools is that the angles are all arbitrary and require no resetting of stops or fixtures. If you can saw to a line, you can saw 90º and 33.4º equally well. Similarly, if you can chop a conventional 90º mortise, you can do any other angle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here, you'd chop it out the same way. It's a through mortise, so you mark both sides of the joint first. A good angle is around 5º, so you can set a sliding bevel to something around that as a way to locate the angled side of the mortise. (BTW, don't forget to make the other end of the mortise longer than necessary - it will be buried inside the vertical member, and you want to make sure the wedge never hits it.) To help guide your eye, you can do either one or both of the following: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Keep the sliding bevel near to your mortise as you chop the angled end, and periodically check that you chisel is parallel to it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Using the sliding bevel, pencil in the correct angle on the side of the mortised piece (ie, the larger tenon), and periodically check progress. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both cases, use a one-sided tolerance approach. Err on the side of too high an angle (coming in from the top), then when the bulk of the mortise is clear, pare away to your marked line on the lower/exit side of the mortise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the above is for the more common example seen in your first picture. For the wedges in the moravian workbench stretcher, it will probably be easier to start from the &lt;em&gt;bottom&lt;/em&gt; of the mortise and pare to the top - the key is just always working down the grain so you don't spelch out the other side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2018-10-16T11:42:32.227" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7727" CreationDate="2018-10-16T13:04:48.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's what I ended up doing: bandsaw to cut the profile, spindle sander with a large-radius drum to hollow out each end, hand sand to taste. There's not a huge amount of recess in the middle, but the eye doesn't really notice, and the leg itself came out of the bandsaw much thinner than I was envisioning. After all of the necessary requirements were met, the 2 1/4&quot; blank was about 1&quot; thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wPtzA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wPtzA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Table leg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5546" LastActivityDate="2018-10-16T13:04:48.093" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7861" CreationDate="2018-10-16T14:56:31.557" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What are the usual steps to carve out a non-90degree mortise that will be married to a sliding wedge/key? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to clarify the need here, this isn't an angled mortise you're looking for here, it's merely a mortise with one angled surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should the wedge be cut first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having the ability to set a given angle and then repeatably mark it is why bevel gauges exist and why they're a part of the normal toolkit for woodworkers. But yes, you can just make the wedge first and use it to mark the angles on the outside of the tenon (as well as to mark out all the subsequent wedges if your cutting method doesn't easily allow you to make duplicate wedges at the start).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've thought of different options to guide the carving, from a pilot drill hole, to a workpiece jig (that allows the chisel to be held plumb), or &lt;strong&gt;an angled guide block (against which the chisel can slide up and down)&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The highlighted portion is a very good idea for critical chisel work in joint making generally (if needed) but really not needed here. You're just chopping out a mortise with three vertical walls and one angled one, you'll find it's not actually that much more difficult than doing a conventional mortise once you have pencilled lines on the exterior to guide your chiselling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with all mortises you should chop in from both faces, the primary intention of this being that you don't 'blow out' (chip out) at the back if you chop right through. But this has another advantage here in that you'll easily create good top and bottom edges to your mortise, and if between these the internal surface is a bit undercut that actually doesn't matter. Ditto if it ends up a bit ragged due to end-grain tearout. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While any irregularity inside the mortise often bothers the person doing the chisel work :-) it'll basically never be seen by anyone else and on this joint it doesn't matter in the slightest in terms of functionality — if the angled face of the wedge bears only on the top and bottom edges it should still work perfectly well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-10-16T14:56:31.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6204" CreationDate="2018-10-16T16:51:06.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems like you should disassemble the top, and investigate what causes it to warp this much. It could be wood movement of the top -- which could be due to the underside not being finished to the same level as the topside. It could be a problem in the frame too, except that having a single corner popping off makes that more unlikely. Difficult to say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attaching tabletops to bases using dowels is unconventional. There's a good article on keeping tabletops flat &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.finewoodworking.com/media/TabletopsFlat.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, by Christian Becksvoort, which will cover different options for attaching a top to a base. Given that glue used to be good enough to hold it in place, it might just need the help of tabletop metal hardware, such as figure 8 brackets. You could consider that before ripsawing the top and refinishing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the top is shaped like a hockey stick when you take it off, you might have to saw in the middle of the warped portion along the grain, correct the edges, and re-glue the edge after correcting. You might have to do that more than once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;On alternate grain directions:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;After sawing (if you do decide to take that route), you could consider flipping one side around to the alternate orientations. But keep in mind that sometimes, a single bow can be easily fixed with appropriate fasteners. In that &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.finewoodworking.com/media/TabletopsFlat.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;same article&lt;/a&gt; for instance, on p34, Becksvoort writes: &quot;grain orientation makes little difference&quot;. You'll find advocates in both camps, but many woodworkers will favor what looks best over grain orientation when making a panel. For instance, it might bring the sapwood up in half your boards, which can mean more visible knots and &quot;defects&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A top with a single convex bow (like a portion of a very large barrel), can still produce a very flat top once the edges are fastened down. If you're alternating grain, you might give your top additional inflexion points (like the shape of the spanish tilde &quot;~&quot;), and you might find that you need even more fasteners to keep everything flush with the base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2019-04-24T04:30:34.193" LastActivityDate="2019-04-24T04:30:34.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7858" CreationDate="2018-10-16T18:00:34.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you using MDF of plywood? &#xA;Use 3/4&quot; plywood rated for sub-flooring, if you make a good structural frame of 2x4's &lt;strong&gt;with center support&lt;/strong&gt; build it like a floor structure make sure that the top &quot;joist&quot; are supported. &lt;strong&gt;When in doubt OVER BUILD!&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Do not use MDF it is not structural material and water will destroy it quickly.&#xA;Lastly paint it with a good paint to seal it.&#xA;I am not an engineer or such, but have been involved in the trades for about 30 yrs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2018-10-16T18:00:34.660" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7861" CreationDate="2018-10-16T21:08:43.750" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The technique for the key and tenon in the Moravian workbench (the image on the right in the question), was publicly published (Sept 2018) in a YouTube miniseries called &quot;Make a tusk tenon joint with hand tools&quot;, which consists of 5 segments probably taken from the full-length DVD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the video, the woodworker first cuts the key, then uses the key as a stencil to mark angled lines on the outside of the tenon, and then chisels out the mortise, using the pencil lines to guide the orientation of the chisel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DlOZ1SibPe8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Making the Key: part 3/5&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OfJl2GYPWnU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marking the mortise: part 4/5&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLP11cEnJUc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cutting the mortise: part 5/5&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not that it's the only way to do it, but it would seem that Myers' technique involves a lot of &quot;just eyeballin' it down the back of the chisel&quot;. Which matches some aspects of the answers here. It's not as daunting as it may seem, because precision is not super critical (not in that project, anyways).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tenon in the bench is formed by laminating two 2x4 boards. It would be possible in theory to use a router to cut out half the mortise from each board, and sandwich them, but in the video the mortise is chiselled out &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; lamination, not before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2018-10-16T21:32:39.997" LastActivityDate="2018-10-16T21:32:39.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7769" CreationDate="2018-10-17T01:28:06.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I want the unit to easily slide off to the side of my bench for when I'm not actively using the PC&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get a sense that if you're not using the PC, you're doing electronics, and by virtue of that there will be all sorts of little bits of solder, stripped wires, and resistors lying about and preventing the wheels to rotate. You might also have to deal with rolling over the 2-3 power or network cables that will be dangling at the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you considered something that clamps to the side of the desk, that is elevated, and that has an elbow, like an IKEA desk lamp, which would allow rotation, panning, and vertical movement? This would have the advantage that you could also stow things underneath the PC shelf on the desk. You could mount your shelf onto this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please don't crucify me because there's no wooden parts in this image, but something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lwlabm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lwlabm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Image from MountIt! &lt;a href=&quot;http://a.co/d/7nvsq2Q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;amazon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could still mount your wooden project box on it. Your question is specifically about casters rolling and gliding, but what I'm proposing here is essentially very low friction &lt;em&gt;hovering&lt;/em&gt; along your desk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2018-10-17T21:22:48.320" LastActivityDate="2018-10-17T21:22:48.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7869" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7872" CreationDate="2018-10-17T07:36:43.693" Score="0" ViewCount="875" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our walls are made of Reinforced Cement Concrete (RCC) with a thickness of 15 cm.&#xA;The walls have 15mm gypsum plaster on both the sides.&#xA;We are doing interior design - installation of wardrobes and modular kitchen.&#xA;The installations are made of teak wood. No ply wood is used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What will be the suitable thickness of the following considering the wall thickness of 15cm Reinforced Cement Concrete(RCC)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The back-panel used in wardrobes and kitchen&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Horizontal wooden planks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vertical wooden planks &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Doors of the wardrobes and kitchen cabinets&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My carpenters are simply suggesting 1½&quot; inch for every board. I am of the opinion that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;¼&quot; (6mm) for back panel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1½&quot; (37mm) for load bearing longer panels and outer most vertical panels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;½&quot; (12mm) for all other horizontal and vertical panels. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;would be enough. I would like to confirm what is prevalent in the industry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5669" LastEditorUserId="1646" LastEditDate="2018-10-17T12:35:42.900" LastActivityDate="2018-10-17T12:48:01.447" Title="Thickness of back-panels, horizontal planks and vertical planks" Tags="|wood|design|wood-selection|carving|installation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7870" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7873" CreationDate="2018-10-17T11:16:37.817" Score="2" ViewCount="475" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are going to make modular kitchen and wardrobes for our home using pure hard wood like teak wood. The depths of the shelf vary from 1 feet to 1 and half feet.&#xA;For shelves, can we use planks of width 1 feet or we need to join planks of 6 inch? In case if we need to join...what kind of joint is the best for wardrobes and kitchens...?&#xA;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5669" LastActivityDate="2018-10-17T19:26:10.567" Title="Monolithic wooden boards vs joint wooden boards" Tags="|wood|design|wood-selection|installation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7870" CreationDate="2018-10-17T12:13:03.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have wide stock you can use that, or you can join up multiple narrower boards. a straight edge joint is perfect for this, provided the edges joined are straight and square (ie, no gaps) - regular wood glue is strong enough to hold this together.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2018-10-17T12:13:03.620" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7869" CreationDate="2018-10-17T12:48:01.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no way I would use 37mm teak for the unseen back panel of piece of furniture.  Personally, I would use plywood or hardboard; certainly 6mm solid wood would be fine (and for the kitchen cupboards in particular, I would consider using a cheaper wood than teak).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your carpenters seem to be grossly over-building the furniture.  I wouldn't use more than 12mm for any of the vertical panels.  Horizontals are more complex - have a look online for plans of the sort of furniture you want.  My gut feel is that 37mm (or possibly even 50mm) for the worktop would be right; for shelves in kitchen cupboards 25mm;  For the bottoms of drawers, 12mm or possibly thinner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1646" LastActivityDate="2018-10-17T12:48:01.447" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7870" CreationDate="2018-10-17T13:01:21.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For shelves, can we use planks of width 1 feet or we need to join planks of 6 inch? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no easy answer to that, because as with most things wood-related the wood itself if the key factor. This is &lt;strong&gt;each piece&lt;/strong&gt;, not the wood species in general. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the way that most wood is cut even subsequent boards from the same stack, sawn from the same tree in sequence, are all slightly different. And some will be much more likely to be stable than others (generally the ones closer to the centre*). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the answer is really &lt;strong&gt;yes, IF the wood is suitable&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In case if we need to join...what kind of joint is the best for wardrobes and kitchens...?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has long been standard practice to use butt joints to make up wider boards or panels from narrower stock. Edge-to-edge joints with no further reinforcement are stronger than the wood around them, if done right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this for some further details, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4850/not-so-obvious-disadvantages-of-butt-joints/4857#4857&quot;&gt;Not-so-obvious disadvantages of butt joints&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Because the closer to vertical the grain at the ends of the boards is the more stable the wood tends to be, as long as the heart is not in the centre of the board (if present this should generally be cut out and discarded). This is one reason for quarter-sawn wood usually being sold at a premium, even in woods where there isn't &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iqAO3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a specific figure showing on the face of the board that results from the wood being cut this way&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-10-17T13:01:21.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7870" CreationDate="2018-10-17T19:26:10.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The idea of using multiple planks is that you would make sure the grain runs in opposite directions on each plank that you join to minimize any kind of cupping which can happen with wider pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it also depends on how the planks were cut; whether they are flat sawn or quarter sawn:&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VxDLo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VxDLo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With flat sawn boards, the cut means the board will have a change of direction at the middle of the board, and this will make cupping more likely than a quarter sawn board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With quarter sawn, the log is first cut in quarters (hence the name) then the boards are cub more or less with the grain running perpendicular to the face of the board, and the grain runs in the same direction in the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this example, if you were to use the flat sawn boards, you'd cut them down the middle, then flip one of them over, and then rejoin them using a simple butt joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1781" LastActivityDate="2018-10-17T19:26:10.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7858" CreationDate="2018-10-17T19:29:56.067" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally think this is a terrible idea.  No way it's going to hold up to a washer's spin cycle unless you make it out of steel and weld your parts together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why not just build some drawers to go on top of the washer, or build simple cabinets with drawers which float an inch or so above the washer?  Makes it easier to access the washer for future repairs and you don't have to risk the whole thing collapsing during the spin cycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1781" LastActivityDate="2018-10-17T19:29:56.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7876" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-17T19:56:29.547" Score="3" ViewCount="2108" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I was planing a board of oak, I noticed an acidic vinegar-y smell emanating from the newly exposed surface and the shavings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read this might be due to natural acids present in the tree. I didn't cut the tree down, rather I have purchased the board, already surfaced on 4 sides. I'm not sure if it's received any treatment - The label (from the big orange store) simply said &quot;oak&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't mind the scent, but:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is it a sign that i should let it dry off a bit more?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If it was indeed acid causing this, would I need to neutralize it before applying certain finishes?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some pics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W7bca.jpg&quot; height=&quot;500&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&amp;nbsp;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EoHCv.jpg&quot; height=&quot;500&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Left:&lt;/strong&gt; end grain; image covers 1/2&quot; of the board's width &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W7bcam.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;(fullsize -- woodworkers with trypophobia: beware)&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;strong&gt;Right:&lt;/strong&gt; Face of same board; scale unknown &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EoHCv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;(fullsize)&lt;/a&gt;. Colors and whites have not been calibrated/balanced #nofilter. &lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2018-10-19T07:29:58.513" LastActivityDate="2018-10-19T07:29:58.513" Title="oak has vinegar smell, action needed?" Tags="|wood|hardwood|wood-drying|wood-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7280" CreationDate="2018-10-17T22:21:46.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where in the world is this project? I'll assume this is a somewhat remote Third World location. Even in the most remote locations, materials as simple as wax or paint may be of use (if reapplied regularly). Also given the resources, creating your own varnishes may be feasible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for steps there are many sources. I'll simply outline them here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) prepare the surfaces - removing all tool marks, bumps, etc. leaving the surface smooth to the touch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) alter the color (if desired) - in remote areas, there will be craft traditions familiar with locally accessible materials (like people who dye cloth). Where I live, walnut husks can be cooked to make a great stain for wood called Vandyke brown. I'm sure there is some source near you; commercial or craft-based that will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) coat with a protective layer - oil, wax, varnish, etc. are applied to resist water and other elements. This step usually is repeated: add a coat, perhaps apply sand or steel wool to smooth, add a coat, and so on, until desired result is achieved. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steps 2 and 3 can be combined if you are using paint or a product that both colors and protects at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion is to look to local boat-builders and follow their lead. The finishes used in wooden boat building will have the characteristics you are looking for (given your comments about moisture) and the boat-builders will know how to apply the finishes they use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Books like the following may be useful (depending on your location):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0486226883&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Natural Dyes and Home Dyeing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0875965660&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Understanding Wood Finishing: How to Select and Apply the Right Finish&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastActivityDate="2018-10-17T22:21:46.897" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7876" CreationDate="2018-10-17T23:12:10.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chances are that you have a red oak board.  Red oak is notoriously smelly, described variously as resembling vomit, poop, silage, fermentation - you get the drift.  It is widely known as piss-oak because of its extreme smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently had a red oak experience and considered submitting a question about it. In my case I was using well aged oak (a curbside discarded oak futon provided ample wood for a project that produced hundreds of small parts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite having been finished and presumably in a typical dry indoor environment for years, it just plain stank when I ripped and cross-cut the wood.  The smell has since abated (about one month) - I do not intend to apply to finish the work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that the smell comes when a new surface is exposed to air and has nothing to do with how long it has been aged or dried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2018-10-17T23:12:10.300" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7879" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7883" CreationDate="2018-10-18T00:12:06.817" Score="2" ViewCount="333" Body="&lt;p&gt;What protective clothing (upper body, lower body, and footwear) should I wear for circular saws?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding lower body, I read that chainsaw Kevlar chaps stop safety-spec-conforming gas-powered (but not electric) chainsaws by using fibers to jam them. Will this prevent battery-powered circular saw kickback from cutting through? Or if a blade falls out during use, will it prevent that from cutting through? Or buy enough time to let go of the trigger and be unscathed? Are there better alternatives? Many of these chaps have open crotches, so will a regular sports hard cup prevent it from cutting through? Nutshellz make bullet-resistant ballistic Kevlar cups. Do these help against circular saws though? It’s marketed to baseball players and law enforcement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5673" LastActivityDate="2018-10-18T12:46:47.010" Title="Protective clothing for circular saws?" Tags="|safety|circular-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2018-10-27T23:56:59.227" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7758" CreationDate="2018-10-18T07:03:54.767" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The weakest point ended up being the half-laps (as predicted by @SaSSafraS1232):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xYijD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xYijD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lengthwise crack in the leg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5367" LastActivityDate="2018-10-18T07:03:54.767" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7881" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7884" CreationDate="2018-10-18T07:35:46.170" Score="1" ViewCount="483" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the planning stages of building a simple workbench, and I'm a bit stuck on the bench top itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of my goals for this bench is to be able to disassemble it as much as possible, to make it easier to get into and out of places where having a bench would be handy. Most of the plans I've seen involve laminating boards together to create the bench surface, which I'd like to avoid as it becomes a rather large block that can't further disassembled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be feasible to use breadboard ends to hold together a bench top made of 2x4s set on end?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would look something like this (the picture shows it at 1 ft wide, this may end up being wider):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DtW9L.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DtW9L.png&quot; alt=&quot;Breadboad Ends&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The weight of the bench top itself would be resting on another couple of 2x4s sitting inside what's basically a large dado cut in the bottom, anchored with through mortise:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/By7FB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/By7FB.png&quot; alt=&quot;Benchtop support cutaway&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should trap all but the outer two 2x4s, which would be captured by the breadboard ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a viable way to hold together a workbench top?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5367" LastActivityDate="2018-10-18T13:07:48.430" Title="Can breadboard ends hold together a tabletop without glue?" Tags="|design|workbench|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7881" CreationDate="2018-10-18T12:32:13.197" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A breadboard end is meant to keep a panel flat, not prevent seasonal contraction/expansion. A breadboard is typically joined with a fixed (ie, glued) mortise and tenon (&quot;M&amp;amp;T&quot;) in the middle, and maybe another two M&amp;amp;Ts on either side. These two tenons are pinned, not glued, and the pins go into elongated holes. The elongated holes allow for the seasonal movement. Note that the M&amp;amp;Ts could be replaced by a single long, but deep, tongue and groove. google &quot;breadboard end pinned&quot; for some quick examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case I hesitate to even call it a breadboard - the M&amp;amp;Ts fastening your breadboard to the &quot;panel&quot; (workbench top) are not joined int he conventional way. I would expect the center of your panel to bulge out in the expansion season. You're looking at a problem, whatever happens. You still need something to keep the laminated top together, and that is going to be either glue or mechanical fasteners (eg, screws). You can use a breadboard or other means (eg, cleats) to keep it flat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2018-10-18T12:32:13.197" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7879" CreationDate="2018-10-18T12:46:47.010" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Technique is a much more important aspect of being safe than PPE when using saws (circular or otherwise), though there are a few pieces of PPE that are helpful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, eye and ear protection is essential; ear protection is much more essential when working indoors than outdoors. If indoors, a dust mask or respirator is useful as well, though one is still helpful when outdoors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, make sure you aren't wearing any loose clothing or jewelry, and that long hair is tied back. Anything loose or hanging has a potential to get caught in the saw blade. Some people take off all jewelry (not just loose/dangly stuff), as a ring getting caught by a blade can mean loosing the finger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as technique goes, make sure the blade is tightened onto the arbor (though it's extremely rare, if not impossible, for a blade to fall out of a circular saw) and that is's sharp. Support the offcuts properly all the way through the cut. Be mindful of what's on the other side of the workpiece where the blade comes through. Most of this is taken care of if you use sawhorses, foam insulation, a workbench, etc to support the piece while making the cuts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other aspect to consider is to get a circular saw with an electric brake. A brake stops a spinning blade much faster (within 1 second) than letting friction do its thing after you let go of the trigger. If kickback were to occur, you'd likely let up on the trigger as a reaction and the blade would stop very quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastActivityDate="2018-10-18T12:46:47.010" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7881" CreationDate="2018-10-18T13:07:48.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is sort of yes, but there's a lot more to it than that as there's not enough allowance for &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/908/what-general-considerations-do-i-need-to-take-into-account-for-wood-movement/910#910&quot;&gt;wood movement&lt;/a&gt;. In short, the breadboard ends can't stretch or compress and they'd really need to in order for this to work properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hidden within normal/conventional breadboard ends (when done correctly) is extra room to allow the main field of the top to expand and contract as needed — as you can see from the link above, seasonal variations in humidity result in changes to the wood's moisture content, leading to changes in width. The wetter the wood the wider the top, the drier the wood the narrower the top. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can minimise this seasonal variation in certain ways, by selecting boards with quarter-sawn or rift-sawn grain* and by working in woods that move less than others. But unfortunately 2x material is not generally wood that moves relatively little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I think you need to ditch the idea of the breadboard ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What to do instead&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Essentially all you're looking to do here is hold the two outermost boards down so they can't fall off or be lifted out of place when the table is in use, and there are other ways of doing this, all simpler in fact. And even better news, the simplest involves no extra work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All you need to do is fix four flat expansion plates, or figure-eight fasteners, to the underside of two of the 2x4s which are then screwed to the outside two boards. This will securely hold them down while allowing them to move in or out as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*This doesn't mean only how the wood was cut, it can just mean that the grain (seen from the ends) is vertical or nearly so. To put it another way, you orient the &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5871/which-direction-does-wood-expand/5877#5877&quot;&gt;tangential grain vertically&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-10-18T13:07:48.430" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7886" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8062" CreationDate="2018-10-19T17:50:30.540" Score="4" ViewCount="997" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a movable narrow island / kitchen prep table out of plywood and would like to know what would be the strongest joint for it. It will be mostly supported by the cabinet box sides which are 48&quot; long and 32&quot; tall. The cabinet will be 16.5&quot; wide. I think a 90 degree butt joint on the bottom will be stronger since the weight of the sides will be directly on the bottom board rather than transferring the side load through the pocket screws. The top will have a granite slab so there will be a lot of weight on the cabinet box. Ignoring any finishing or what looks better, what is going to be the strongest method between a 90 degree overlapping butt joint versus a pocket screw. I was also thinking of doing a rabbet joint on the bottom but then I would have to adjust the pocket screw a bit and do the rabbet which takes more time. Drawing not to scale, it will be much taller. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional info:&#xA;I am filling the cabinet with drawers on each end. There will be a center vertical board in the middle to help stabilize and split the cabinet box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S5Bc9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S5Bc9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pocket vs. 90 degree butt&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Updated&lt;/strong&gt;: Here is the solution I chose&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K2TR0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K2TR0.png&quot; alt=&quot;Rabbet Joint 90&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5676" LastEditorUserId="5676" LastEditDate="2018-12-12T17:18:00.643" LastActivityDate="2018-12-12T17:18:00.643" Title="90 degree butt Versus Pocket screws for cabinet with legs" Tags="|butt-joint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7887" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7891" CreationDate="2018-10-20T01:27:44.330" Score="4" ViewCount="1590" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to build this at home. I was just wondering what the best approach would be to join at these angles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about using pegs/dowels and glue, any suggestions would be much appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZNA9M.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZNA9M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5679" LastEditorUserId="5679" LastEditDate="2018-10-20T02:24:35.920" LastActivityDate="2018-10-22T00:08:40.033" Title="Joining on an angle" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7887" CreationDate="2018-10-20T04:43:56.730" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dowels (and plenty of glue) would work for the top joints, though it'd be hard to get them exactly right. So would biscuits, if you had access to a biscuit joiner. If your standards were low, you could even screw them together. (But that would look a little terrible on top...) You could also go nuts and do dovetails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would, however, just screw on an angle (with glue) for the bottom joints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2018-10-20T04:43:56.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7887" CreationDate="2018-10-21T04:02:09.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not just glue any of these joints as it is an end grain glue up. Several biscuits (3 or so)on each joint would definitely make a much stronger joint, although biscuits do not normally add strength to a joint. Dowels or Dominoes would be a better choice, dowels would be hard to drill and the Domino machine is expensive. &#xA;Contrasting dowels through the top might look good by calling attention to the joinery. &#xA;Screws in the bottom is a definite. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2018-10-22T00:08:40.033" LastActivityDate="2018-10-22T00:08:40.033" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7482" CreationDate="2018-10-21T04:08:19.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might try a pull saw with a thin blade, they cut with very little effort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2018-10-21T04:08:19.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7887" CreationDate="2018-10-21T08:47:59.703" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the use this will see it's possible the top doesn't need any reinforcing. Just plain glued joints could be sufficient because glued end grain | long grain butt joints are stronger than commonly supposed, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4233/what-are-the-different-grain-directions-and-how-do-they-affect-joint-strength/4240#4240&quot;&gt;What are the different grain directions, and how do they affect joint strength?&lt;/a&gt; for a bit more. However because it'll take very little to add strength here I would recommend it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom of this does need reinforcement to be on the safe side. In addition to glue you could just use screws which seems the easiest option but it may not be because you should drill both pilot and clearance holes, plus a countersink or counterbore to hide the screw head. So unless you have a purpose-made combination bit that does this in one shot each screw will require three different drilling operations. Now this isn't a huge project so that's not too much work but there's an easier way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I was thinking about using pegs/dowels and glue &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this is the best option here as all the joints can be secured using dowels, but it's not immediately obvious how you'd use them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally dowel joints need &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; precise drilling both in terms of angle and position. This can be tricky even with 90° joints, it's much more challenging once you introduce an angle. But here there are two simple workarounds that'll make this a snap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Top first since you need to do some work prior to assembly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In one piece (I'd suggest the sides) you drill conventional fitting holes for the dowels and glue them in so that just a short nub projects. Then you drill &lt;em&gt;oversize&lt;/em&gt; holes in the other piece for these to locate in. The oversize hole makes exact fit a non-issue, and by using a gap-filling adhesive* you can still ensure the joint is very strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the bottom, here you assemble first and then simply drill right through both pieces so alignment is automatically guaranteed. Make sure your holes are slightly deeper than the length of your cut dowels and you'll be able to tap them home without needing to saw/pare/sand/plane them flush after the glue has dried which saves some work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people don't like to see exposed dowel ends but here they're hidden on the underside so it becomes a non-issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*I'd suggest the easiest is &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3807/large-hole-filler-products-what-is-available/3809#3809&quot;&gt;filled epoxy&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-10-21T08:47:59.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7482" CreationDate="2018-10-21T09:59:10.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What sort of machine or tool would I use to cut them all down flat to be even with each other?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First check your wall is flat, many are not. I'd use a ruler that is longer than the longest dimension of the artwork and place it edgewise (not flat) against the wall in many horizontal, vertical and diagonal orientations. Many walls are not flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Do the dowels need to be flat and even?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd consider adding three screw-in feet to the back and adjusting those so it looks right even though none of the perimeter dowels are touching the wall. If you don't like the result, you can always unscrew them and go back to plan A&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One or two of the feet could be screw-in eyes or hooks for supporting the artwork. They need to be screw-in so that you can adjust how much they stick out in order to level the artwork parallel to the wall&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Three feet rather than more because three feet always sit flat on uneven surfaces, four or more are likely to rock back and forth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Machines / Power tools&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have pointed out, large fixed power tools can be dangerous, especially when used on inhomogenous composite pieces with stepped surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sorts of machines you might use can have the tendency to fling your artwork at very high speed into the wall or into the face of onlookers or operators. This is probably more likely when working with pieces that have uneven and stepped surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even smaller hand-held machines can get out of control and either break bits off your artwork or off you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Hand methods&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Sanding&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative might be to glue several sheets of 60-grit sandpaper to the flat top of a workbench and move the back of the piece over that in a figure of eight pattern until flat. This would be a lot of work and might cause some break-out at the edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Cutting&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a saw to cut a perfectly flat very thin slice from the base of thin board is something I would find very difficult to do. Particularly on a larger piece. I wouldn't attempt this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be able to nibble slowly at individual dowels one at a time, each time choosing the one that sticks out furthest. Flush-cut saws might be a good choice for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Thoughts for next time:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top piece in your picture looks like it is constructed on a dark rectangular backing board of some sort. The W may be too. That would avoid this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were to make a wall-art sculpture of dowels alone, I think I'd glue it up either horizontally with the backs of the dowels resting on a plastic sheet laid on a very flat table or vertically with the dowels supported in temporary framing on the wall in the piece's intended final place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Footnote: This is an old question but it seems to be getting attention lately and I felt it deserved an attempt at an answer. The reason it went unanswered for so long is probably that there isn't really a good answer that directly addresses the question as stated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="158" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T10:32:50.577" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7886" CreationDate="2018-10-22T06:11:43.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You mention that the bottom is plywood, which leads me to think that the sides are plywood also.  &lt;strong&gt;It is never a good idea to drive screws into the edge of plywood&lt;/strong&gt;.  Not even if the joint is not carrying a particularly big load as in option number one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should use solid wood gluing blocks to reinforce the joint. The blocks are placed in the corner and then screws should be driven into them through the horizontal plywood bottom and through the vertical panels into the blocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, use option one with gluing blocks.  The blocks have to be large enough to take the screws without splitting - pre-drill and use wood that's in the range of a 2x2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2018-10-22T06:11:43.270" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7894" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-22T14:54:49.363" Score="4" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning on building some furniture which has to support 2 aquariums.  I have found many examples online of a simple design which uses 2x4s constructional softwood to build a box for the aquarium to sit on.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if I picked a hardwood to build it, if I would be able to use smaller dimensions of the wood for the same strength? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if I used maple could I achieve the same strength using 1x3s?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The aquariums are going to be 300 litre 120cm x 50cm x 50cm (48&quot; x 20&quot; x 20&quot;).  So lets round up and say a live weight of 400kg per tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of using this design:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/data/attachments/129/129127-077d722003f604ee5ee3f8dc284d5061.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/data/attachments/129/129127-077d722003f604ee5ee3f8dc284d5061.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/jN4Y9AYuwcQ?t=980&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/jN4Y9AYuwcQ?t=980&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key parts are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Going to put ply on the back and the top&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weight is supported by the timbers not the screws&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8 legs in total (two in each corner)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5684" LastEditorUserId="2524" LastEditDate="2018-10-24T13:24:58.527" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T17:34:13.337" Title="Can you use smaller dimensions of hardwood than softwood and have the same strength?" Tags="|design|wood-selection|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7894" CreationDate="2018-10-22T16:16:42.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hardwood and softwood are not terms describing the strength of the timber - they describe whether the trees are conifers or broad-leaf trees.  Different timbers have different strengths and in general, hardwoods tend to be harder than softwoods ... but as I say &quot;it depends&quot;.  Both ebony and balsa are hardwoods, and their structural properties are ... not identical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, for most timber the difference in strength and stiffness is not that great.  I would not expect to be able to go from a cross-section of 8 square inches to 3 square inches - more like 4x2 to 3x2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1646" LastEditorUserId="1646" LastEditDate="2018-10-24T14:25:43.103" LastActivityDate="2018-10-24T14:25:43.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7894" CreationDate="2018-10-22T23:35:02.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are tools on the internet such as the sagulator (click on the 'design' tag and select more info to find a link to the sagulator) that can assist you in determining if a piece of wood can support the weight of an aquarium. In all likelihood the corner posts will easily hold the weight, but the horizontal spans will be much more questionable. You will need to consider the species of wood being used, the length of span, and the depth of the beams (the beam width should not be less than 3/4&quot;). Remember that water weighs 8.4 pounds per gallon.  To that you must add the weight of the aquarium and any rocks or other decorative items added to the tank environment.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond weight bearing, the most critical consideration is with the connections.  Heavy loads will have a tendency to twist the individual beams and posts that may also affect the entire frame assembly.  The connections between members must be able to transfer the weight and resist any lateral loads that occur in the assembly.  One way to resist these loads is to include firmly secured plywood panels at the sides, top and near the bottom of the frame. I do not recommend screwed connection but instead use traditional woodworking connections including mortise and tenon connection and plenty of water resistant wood glue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2018-10-22T23:35:02.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7898" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7988" CreationDate="2018-10-23T03:40:44.257" Score="7" ViewCount="4868" Body="&lt;p&gt;The engineering toolbox has &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wood-screws-allowable-withdrawal-load-d_1815.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a screw withdrawal strength calculator&lt;/a&gt; but it assumes the screws are perpendicular to the grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could not find a calculator for screws installed parallel to the grain, but I did find &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplgtr/fpl_gtr151.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a nice meta-analysis of endgrain withdrawal force research for nails&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the most conservative numbers there plus my blind assumption that the endgrain-to-sidegrain strength ratios for screws would be similar to nails, does it make sense to say, as a rule of thumb, that screws in the endgrain would have 0.5 the withdrawal force of screws in the sidegrain? Does this match peoples’ experience?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, is there a calculator or formula to determine endgrain withdrawal force given the screw diameter and density of the wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastActivityDate="2021-02-19T17:30:24.463" Title="Endgrain screw withdrawal force" Tags="|design|screws|strength|fasteners|end-grain|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7338" CreationDate="2018-10-24T23:59:18.770" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can certainly try, but I suspect wood movement will eventually cause failures unless you use some very uniform grain species, like real mahogany. And even that probably won't last.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to your machining issues, that's the easy part. You don't need to cut 1/4 inch pieces and then put 1/8 rabbets in them. You take much larger pieces, cut rabbets, and only then cut to the final 1/4 inch size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="463" LastActivityDate="2018-10-24T23:59:18.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7901" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7903" CreationDate="2018-10-25T00:08:26.027" Score="5" ViewCount="1153" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the process of building a knockdown workbench, following the general design of a short bench (similar to roman bench seen &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.unpluggedwoodworking.com/2017/08/using-roman-workbench.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of these use dowel style legs, which I am not confident in my ability to make, and the number of legs also seems to vary from 4 to 8 legs. I'd like to avoid that complexity and use a single 4x4 for each leg instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The current connection to the workbench top is based on what amounts to a primitive sawhorse formed by a 2x4 running between two 4x4 legs, which slots into a dado on the underside of the table:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/71YzJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/71YzJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cutaway of the connection between the legs and top&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I've run the dimensions through &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Sagulator&lt;/a&gt; and the components themselves should ok past 1,000lbs, I'm unsure of how it will handle racking. For reference, these are the dimensions:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d5e21.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d5e21.png&quot; alt=&quot;8ft x 20.5in with 16.5in legs&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is intended to be my main workbench, and will be used for all of my hand tool work. I've got a taller bench that's sturdy enough for working with my power tools (mostly limited to a corded drill and hand router). The tall workbench isn't heavy enough for working with hand tools, as I lose too much energy when working with the mallet and chisel. Based on my research on this type of bench, I'll be doing most of the work either sitting on the bench or standing with one foot on the floor and one knee on the bench, and will be generally closer to one of the ends than the middle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will probably see work for an hour or so a couple times a week in the evening, and longer on the weekends when I can swing the free time. I currently do mostly rough work, so the amount of planing will be minimal at first, though I expect that to increase as I get better (not much point to doing a lot of planing until the limit on how nice it looks stops being my skill deficit in other areas). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, my &quot;workshop&quot; is currently a covered back porch, so temperature and moisture control aren't really feasible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this to be stable, would the legs need a stretcher or other form of support?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5367" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2019-10-24T20:59:26.173" LastActivityDate="2019-10-24T20:59:26.173" Title="What supports do legs need on a very short workbench" Tags="|design|workbench|racking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7902" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-25T01:26:05.910" Score="1" ViewCount="176" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not technically a woodworking question, but a question about woodworking products...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for an affordable white glue to use making cardboard furniture. I'd be bonding cardboard to itself and paper. All of the videos I've seen have shown people using a pva glue that they've thinned with water and painted on with a brush, sort of a home-made decoupage glue. An 8oz bottle of All Purpose White Glue is $11 whereas the super thick formula, Quick &amp;amp; Thick, is only $4. Can I just mix the Quick &amp;amp; Thick with water and save myself a ton of money?? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5694" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2018-10-29T03:57:30.557" LastActivityDate="2018-10-29T03:57:30.557" Title="Is Titebond All Purpose White Glue just a diluted version of the Quick &amp; Thick?" Tags="|glue|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7901" CreationDate="2018-10-25T16:21:05.413" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This is intended to be my main workbench, and will be used for all of my hand tool work&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A rock solid desk that doesn't shake or wobble would seem to be a requirement for hand tool work of any kind. It's the defining difference between a desk used to hold things, and a desk used to work on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your design has no support for lateral movement. When you apply repeated lateral forces the legs will start to wobble, and even if it is the smallest wobble it will be one that transfers to your hand tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation is to make the legs independent from the table top. They should stand in place firmly if there was no table top, and be strong enough to resist forces that would be applied via hand tools. This makes the table top a functional surface attached to a solid base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way of thinking about it is to picture yourself lifting on end of the table, and dragging it around the workplace. This places all the weight and stress on two legs. Will this weaken those legs? If just one leg starts to wobble the entire table is unsuitable for hand tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1734" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T16:21:05.413" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7741" CreationDate="2018-10-25T17:12:54.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The spray gun is generating an electrostatic charge in the spray and atomized particles are attaching to the nearby surfaces of the wood. It looks white because the varnish has been atomized (like a white mist).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few things you can do&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cover the other areas&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;increase the humidity in the room (not recommended for woodworking)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;attach a grounding wire to the spray gun&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;place a sacrificial piece of grounded copper pipe near the wood&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use a larger particle size for the spray nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;run fans to change the air in the room with outside air before spraying&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lack of humidity is the main problem here. The dry air makes for low electrical resistance and charged particles travel further to negatively charged surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1734" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T17:12:54.893" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7894" CreationDate="2018-10-25T17:34:13.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Weight is supported by the timbers not the screws&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tank will crack, because the support is in the four corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to support the entire perimeter of the tank's base. Water tanks sit on small edges with the floor of the tank unsupported. In the video reference example, the tank would have to sit with the footprint near the edge of the table to ensure safely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tank should be on a flat surface that is level and will not deform under the weight of the tank. So the surface itself needs to be evenly supported.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stand should be able to resist a tanks weight from a lateral force. So you need the stand to support 400kg of force from the side. Picture a small child running upto the tank and slamming into it with their hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are in doubt about how to build a tank stand, then I advise you to purchase one from a pet store that is rated for your tank. You are describing a large tank and the forces there are huge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1734" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T17:34:13.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7906" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7908" CreationDate="2018-10-25T19:17:17.510" Score="6" ViewCount="7010" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some bandsaws, mine included, have guide blocks to help prevent the blade from deflecting. Guide blocks look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NaPns.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NaPns.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Guide blocks on a band saw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image credit: Rockler&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other bandsaws use roller bearings instead. They look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FccQJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FccQJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Roller bearings on a band saw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image credit: Rockler&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me the roller bearings are the superior choice and would have several advantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They will rotate as the saw blade moves, keeping the blade cooler, and thus the blade will last longer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They should not wear as much over time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They should be quieter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything guide blocks are better at than roller bearings? Is there a reason to prefer guide blocks in some situations, but roller bearings in others? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDITED TO ADD:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/users/5572/jdv&quot;&gt;jdv&lt;/a&gt; gets to the crux of the question in the comments. Is there a situation where blocks outperform bearings (or vice versa, really) &lt;em&gt;where it affects the cut&lt;/em&gt;? Or blade life? Are there other factors I'm not thinking of? Obviously in either case, you need to have a properly tuned band saw. Are there perhaps cases where you can't tune one as well as the other -- for example, do guide bearings work better for wider blades?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2018-10-25T19:59:30.497" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T21:20:56.700" Title="Bandsaw guides: Blocks vs. Roller bearings" Tags="|band-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7906" CreationDate="2018-10-25T21:20:56.700" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Factory bearings in any but high end band saws are generally not the best.  Guide blocks made from plastic are not very good either.  Good, aftermarket bearings, such as the ones from Carter are very nice, as are a good brand of guide blocks, such as Cool Blocks or ceramic blocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either one needs to be maintained.  The blocks more so than bearings, but the blocks are cheaper than a good set of bearings.  The blocks tend to work better on narrower blades.  I have Cool Blocks on my small band saw that is running a 1/8&quot; - 1/4&quot; blade most of the time, and the Carter bearings on my larger band saw that typically has a 1/2&quot; - 3/4&quot; blade.  Both work much better than the factory guides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blocks are nice for the smaller blades because they allow for good tracking without risk of damaging the teeth.  On the larger blades, the blocks tend to wear faster (need to be readjusted more often), and it is typically not an issue keeping the bearings away from the teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T21:20:56.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7909" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7910" CreationDate="2018-10-26T06:57:07.150" Score="2" ViewCount="304" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to woodworking so hopefully this question falls within this exchanges guidelines, please advise if not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to drill the screw below into plywood as shown in the photo:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kg3U2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kg3U2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There will be a block of wood in the slot in the above photo that I worry will split if I don't drill a pilot hole first. The only issue is that my drill bit is not long enough to make it all the way through. As shown below:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oXvCX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oXvCX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I realized that I need to buy a new drill bit but I am struggling even to do that. My drill (shown below) seems to only accept hex shaped drill bits which drastically limits my selection.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oE4gH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oE4gH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the screws I'm trying to drill, they are 12 x 3 inches long, shown below:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pDtbB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pDtbB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why are the screws listed as size 12 but all drill bits are listed as fractions as shown here? How am I supposed to know what size is correct? And moreover, how can I tell if the length of the bits are at least 3 inches none of the packaging seems to list length, only the size as a fraction.&lt;/strong&gt; :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TieD3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TieD3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To complicate matters, I want the screw to be perfectly flush so I believe I need a countersink to do that properly, I've been looking at the countersinks below I can't tell if the bits are at least 3 inches or whether the width is correct.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ecHHf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ecHHf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am totally overwhelmed at this point - which drill bit should I be using?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5697" LastActivityDate="2018-10-26T14:47:11.483" Title="Am I selecting the correct drill bit for this job?" Tags="|plywood|drilling|drill-bits|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7909" CreationDate="2018-10-26T14:47:11.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tapered bits are the proper bit for that process.  You can by (and most do) with just using a properly sized standard drill bit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a chart for screw size vs bit size based on the type of wood you are drilling into:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Wood-Screws/Wood-Screw-Pilot-Hole-Size.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wood Screw Pilot Hole Sizes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The standard bits are more useful overall, so if you don't want to spend the money now on the tapered bits, just get the first set you linked and use those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding your drill.  You will almost certainly want to invest in a drill with a standard chuck at some point.  A standard three jaw chuck supports more bit sizes, and will have less runout (wobble in the bit that causes the hole to enlarge).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2018-10-26T14:47:11.483" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7912" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-27T18:07:59.220" Score="2" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to restore a 1946 lane coffee table to the original.  Was the original finish lacquer or shellac?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If no one knows I will go with lacquer over a shellac base.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BoAQ3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BoAQ3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5704" LastEditorUserId="5704" LastEditDate="2018-10-28T21:21:29.950" LastActivityDate="2018-10-29T07:10:52.473" Title="Restore to originality" Tags="|furniture|refinishing|shellac|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7912" CreationDate="2018-10-27T19:38:54.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Test in a unseen place with denatured alcohol if it is shellac it will soften.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2018-10-27T19:38:54.407" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7912" CreationDate="2018-10-29T07:10:52.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even if you use various tests (solvent sensitity, scraping) to determine what a piece of vintage furniture currently has on it that doesn't mean it's the original finish and even if it were it doesn't mean you have to use the same thing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you should choose what to use now based not on what was original, but on what would work best for the piece for you, today. And for many that won't mean lacquer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, these days, unless you'll be using spray equipment and specifically buying nitrocellulose lacquer, working with &quot;lacquer&quot; means spraycans and that could mean any number of things are inside (e.g. acrylic-base, polyurethane, melamine). So unless you know for sure what your lacquer is you don't know quite what you'll be getting..... and manufacturer claims for product qualities aren't worth the paper they're written on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I'd use instead&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Me personally I'd refinish in the best consumer-level finish available, and that's oil-based polyurethane varnish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil-based poly is &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5891/how-to-fix-very-light-scratches-in-polyurethane-finish/5893#5893&quot;&gt;very easy to apply to a high standard&lt;/a&gt; (virtually foolproof in fact), is cheaply and commonly available, doesn't involve any spray procedures with all that comes with it&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; and once fully cured after a month or so &lt;em&gt;it provides superior protection to the majority of lacquers&lt;/em&gt;. And it has one further trick up its sleeve, as with all oil-based finishes it can actually make wood look better&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. Even shellac, noted for how beautiful a finish it makes when applied as French polish, can benefit from having oil applied first to 'pop' the figure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To loosely quote Bob Flexner, when you finish or refinish furniture part of it is making aesthetic decisions, so there are no absolute rules. People will disagree with what you choose &lt;em&gt;regardless of what it is&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're worried about the non-originality aspect, there is actually a very long tradition in the refinishing trade of using something new, despite the reputation of restorers always choosing to match the original finish. Switches from raw linseed oil to BLO or a blend like Tung Oil Finish, synthetic wax polishes over the original beeswax-based ones, the use of a modern synthetic varnish in place of the original natural-resin one, even these represent a change in finish despite being somewhat like-for-like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One additional point I'd like to add.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Strip, don't sand&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Old finish should as much as possible never be sanded off any piece of furniture with any value (real or sentimental). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanding is, hands down, the worst way to remove old finish for a host of reasons but perhaps the most important is it has the greatest chance of doing irreversible damage to the piece. Chemical strippers are made for this job and although the work is undeniably messy and tedious, and almost always takes longer than expected, it produces a better end result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; No need for a solvent-rated respirator, no need for a spray tent or other clean room, no need to fuss with a spray gun's setting, no need to worry about whether a spraycan will spray every coat consistently, no worries about atomisation going wrong for the dozen or so reasons it can go wrong, no concerns about overspray. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; On this side of the Atlantic purists are often dismayed that Ercol furniture is being refinished by current owners with various oil-based finishes (chiefly &quot;Danish oil&quot; and poly) instead of the original lacquer. But you know what? The wood often ends up looking better for it, 'richer' and less bland.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-10-29T07:10:52.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3057" CreationDate="2018-10-29T19:26:30.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before buying a pneumatic or an electric brad nailer you should consider the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pneumatics are lighter and smaller than cordless electric brad nailers and more or less same size and weight than corded electric. Also cheaper than electric ones (at least cheaper than cordless electric).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When choosing an &lt;a href=&quot;https://mysundaytools.com/best-electric-brad-nailer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;electric brad nail gun&lt;/a&gt;, there are corded electric brad nailer and cordless electric brad nailer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A corded nailer is more convenient because it does not have to be charged before starting the job. However, a cordless nailer does not require you to tether yourself to a socket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a roofer, the cordless one is probably the better choice. Becoming tangled in the cord could be a serious safety hazard when roofing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the corded model tends to be more powerful and fire faster. A battery powered nailer has to use a mechanism to amplify the battery power. This creates a slight delay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5709" LastActivityDate="2018-10-29T19:26:30.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7916" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7922" CreationDate="2018-10-30T00:02:28.093" Score="3" ViewCount="5024" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would it make sense to apply linseed oil before sanding and then sand the piece and then eventually apply the oil again? In order to create less airborne sawdust. Or it wouldn't make much difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastActivityDate="2018-10-30T09:02:37.057" Title="Oiling and sanding" Tags="|finishing|technique|sanding|boiled-linseed-oil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7916" CreationDate="2018-10-30T05:42:59.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience what you propose works fine. You can sand the wood while the wood is still wet from the oil.  However, I do not use oil with initial sanding, only for the final sanding, although it's worth giving it a shot with the initial rough sanding - you can't go wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recognize that this technique quickly clogs the sandpaper (that's where part of the sanding residue goes instead of into the air).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2018-10-30T05:42:59.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3103" CreationDate="2018-10-30T06:32:34.507" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our engineers sometimes do this, usually testing the stability of the spindle and the fuselage, but not too long, and the original drill bit can be used for very thin aluminum panels. For environments where the voltage is not stable enough, the use of metal-specific drill bits is very dangerous. The coil of the motor controls the power, and the difference is still very large.&#xA;If you don't use it often, you can buy a voltage stabilizer (not a voltage regulator), or you can use it occasionally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5715" LastActivityDate="2018-10-30T06:32:34.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7920" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-30T06:45:18.070" Score="4" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a mistake, I ended up with a table leg that's about 1/16&quot; (1.6mm) shorter than the other ones, on the top. I'm probably going to trim all other legs by a commensurate amount, because that seems like the straightforward thing to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, is there another more &lt;em&gt;creative&lt;/em&gt; way of fixing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have offcuts with matching grain, and I could graft something on top, accounting for the mortises. I could maybe glue a block of endgrain-to-endgrain and then saw+plane it down to the correct line.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can it be turned into a feature? Maybe with some sort of mitred cap around the top of the leg.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nXj7z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nXj7z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;top of leg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I don't think it warrants redoing the leg (the design is complex. it has two intersecting mortises, and lower leg is tapered on two sides, shaker-style). But I might resort to that if I make more mistakes of the sort!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2018-10-30T07:42:11.570" LastActivityDate="2018-10-30T17:56:15.440" Title="Making table leg slightly longer" Tags="|joinery|hand-tools|mortise-and-tenon|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7920" CreationDate="2018-10-30T08:13:13.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;1.6mm is nothing to speak of on something of this size, you'll barely notice it if you cut the other legs to match. This does presume you have the means to make trimming cuts like this accurately, the one thing you absolutely want to avoid is trimming any of the other legs slightly shorter than the one that's currently shortest! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have offcuts with matching grain, and I could graft something on top, accounting for the mortises. I could maybe glue a block of endgrain-to-endgrain and then saw+plane it down to the correct line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given where the graft will be this is a perfectly straightforward and common-sense fix, that likely won't even be seen once the table is in service, so if you would prefer this route then I think you should go for it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're at all worried about the glue joint shifting in use (unlikely given it'll be in compression 99.9999% of the time) you can simply pin it in place or add a couple of dowels on one of the diagonals. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-10-30T08:13:13.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7916" CreationDate="2018-10-30T09:02:37.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Or it wouldn't make much difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes it'll make a big difference normally, it could cut airborne sanding dust down to virtually nil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's actually fairly common now to wet-sand wood with the finish used (usually oil or a blended oil finish such as &quot;Danish oil&quot;, but sometimes using straight varnish). This is not primarily to keep the dust in check though, it's mainly used I think as a means to fill grain with the finish/dust slurry generated&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However this process is not commonly employed for what you might call bulk sanding where you're removing a lot of material, which I think is what you're asking about. Instead it's just at the finish stage (usually with only the last one or two grits used). Bulk sanding is almost always done using power sanders anyway&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; and the means to control dust effectively should be built into those and made use of where possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you are power sanding, dust extraction or other means to control sanding dust such as downdraught sanding tables are probably the things to look at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alternative way to create less dust, sand less&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;First would be to improve your planing — hand planing, &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; machine planing. It's challenging to truly finish-plane wood (where literally nothing else touches the wood before you apply finish) and virtually no Western woodworkers do this all the time, although it is the aim for a number of hand-tool aficionados. But even for leisure woodworkers who don't have much time to practice it is within the grasp of most to &lt;em&gt;hugely&lt;/em&gt; reduce the need to sand by learning to plane to a decent level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can reduce the need to sand even further with scraping. Scraping can become your primary means to complete smoothing of wood if you practice at it and for a lot of common projects it is relatively easy to scrape much much more than you sand. More on the difference in this previous Answer, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1134/what-are-the-differences-between-sanding-and-scraping/1159#1159&quot;&gt;What are the differences between sanding and scraping?&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Safety note:&lt;/strong&gt; the slurry or paste that is generated by this process is a fire hazard for the same reason that oil-soaked finishing rags are, and any excess should not be left in a pile, swept onto the floor or placed loose in the bin/wastebasket as it can spontaneously combust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Except for smaller pieces it's extremely punishing to sand from rough to smooth entirely by hand and I don't think anyone would choose to do it if they knew of alternatives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-10-30T09:02:37.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7923" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-30T17:48:54.870" Score="0" ViewCount="875" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make indentations to hold votive candles in a decorative piece of wood. What is the best way to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5716" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2018-11-06T07:47:55.153" LastActivityDate="2018-11-06T07:47:55.153" Title="How to form an indentation in wood to hold candles?" Tags="|cutting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7920" CreationDate="2018-10-30T17:56:15.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since this is in a location where it won't really be seen (under a table top) and it's so small I'd probably build up the end with tinted epoxy (with an appropriate filler) and then recut it to the proper length.  I think any kind of fix involving gluing on another block will just be more trouble than it's worth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just run a piece of tape around the top to form a barrier, clamp the leg vertically, and pour the epoxy in.  You might need a little sanding to flush up the sides, but it shouldn't be too hard.  The trickiest part will be getting the tinting right.  Since the epoxy won't absorb finish the same way wood does you'll want to aim for the finished color of the project, not the color of the raw wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Obviously this assumes you can't just cut the other legs to match.  That's definitely the easiest fix.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2018-10-30T17:56:15.440" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7923" CreationDate="2018-10-30T17:58:52.090" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to create a flat-bottomed hole the best tool to use will be a forstner drill bit.  You'll probably want to use a drill press to ensure the holes are straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2018-10-30T17:58:52.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7923" CreationDate="2018-10-30T18:48:33.437" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to a Forstner bit, this can be done with a router and template. The choice probably depends on how many you're making and what power tools you have available. Depending on how deep the hole is, a &quot;trim&quot; or &quot;pony&quot; router would likely do the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considerations would include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Availability of a drill press (a forstner bit might not do a great job in a hand drill)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cost and number of holes you can get out of a forstner bit of the right size.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hole size of close-enough size being available as a standard forstner bit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One-off versus production (dozens or hundreds) scale.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastActivityDate="2018-10-30T18:48:33.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7928" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-31T02:08:47.743" Score="10" ViewCount="2531" Body="&lt;p&gt;Frank Klausz, in his video titled &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/vKuy3NdLhlE?t=227&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Dovetails for Drawers - The European way&quot;&lt;/a&gt; takes two minutes to show how he makes his &quot;3-minute dovetails&quot;. When cutting the tails, he uses what looks to be a custom turning saw, and achieves speedy and clean sharp turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my limited experience with coping saws, sharp turns are difficult to execute, and will frustrate the blade into a bind, or cause the blade to break altogether. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Klausz' longer, taller saw blade appears to rotate (you can witness a lot of twist), but also strangely appears to leave sharp corners (not rounded) with no waste. It is mystifying. The tail cleanup is obviated completely. The pins (which were cut first) are just hammered in, to a convincing effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Skill aside, can this be reproduced? Preferably in the Americas, with readily available coping tools?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2HcgR.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2HcgR.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Also: This image was taken from the european drawer video. But he does it again (although with a comedic attitude) in a different video on just the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YFqY73lelq8&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;quick dovetails&lt;/a&gt;, while playing piano.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2018-10-31T06:48:42.487" LastActivityDate="2020-08-12T17:06:09.470" Title="How does Frank Klausz achieve a &gt;90 turn with a turning saw without cleanup when cutting dovetails?" Tags="|hand-tools|dovetail|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7929" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-01T10:07:39.630" Score="4" ViewCount="120" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I have acquired a ~10 year old Westminster (do they use grade A teak?) teak table and chairs and am now looking to restore to a high quality, starting with the table. I've had a look online for the answer but most advice assumes the teak is unstained.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The table has been previously stained on the upper side. I don't know if teak oil or sealant has been applied - is there a way of finding out?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A8AGB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A8AGB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Edge of stained table top&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;The table is unstained underneath and has some mildew that seems to come off easily.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DovzZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DovzZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Underneath of table top with mildew&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;From my research the options I see are as follows:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Clean with bleach/soap/water mix and soft bristle brush. Apply more stain. This is the easiest solution. Would this have any negative effects other than the appearance of the wood not being the natural one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Sand to remove the stain and restore the natural colour. Then apply a sealant &#xA;to maintain the colour. Do I need to do anything different with the sanding because of the stain? Does sanding the stain out damage the wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) After cleaning, sand to remove badly applied stain and built up dirt but with no intention to completely remove the stain since this is apparently very difficult. Apply more stain. Is this better than 1) given I will re-apply stain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which of these options do you recommend or are there others I haven't considered?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5720" LastActivityDate="2018-11-01T11:41:51.937" Title="Outdoor teak table and chairs options" Tags="|finishing|wood|staining|sanding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7930" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-01T10:49:00.570" Score="4" ViewCount="1115" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have acquired a coffee table (it's more like a small wide chest of drawers) with a warped frame and want to check that my fixing method is appropriate and cannot be improved upon.**&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jCX9c.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jCX9c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan to fix is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Apply wood glue (from my research Gorilla wood glue looks a good option)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Provide moisture to the area by covering with damp paper towels then wrapping in cling film&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Tighten a ratchet strap around the base and tighten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Leave for a week to dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is this likely to break the wood and provide a long term fix?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Additional Photos&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nnd7k.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nnd7k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Front view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ijNC0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ijNC0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Diagonal view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MCsvK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MCsvK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Side View&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0QRwY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0QRwY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Underneath&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xlBy2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xlBy2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Underneath Zoom&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5720" LastEditorUserId="5720" LastEditDate="2018-11-01T15:47:08.010" LastActivityDate="2021-04-30T21:53:55.480" Title="Repair warped wood in situ" Tags="|glue|warp|clamps|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7930" CreationDate="2018-11-01T11:30:09.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general that's the right approach. A few comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;you shouldn't need to add moisture with damp towels and polyurethane glue unless perhaps you live in an extremely dry climate.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;you will probably get better results using regular bar clamps. It will be more easy to control where clamping force is applied, and more importantly, in what direction. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you are trying to square things up, not just close gaps, you will need a reference square to test the assembly as you clamp it up. A cheap plastic speed square is accurate enough for this. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;most importantly, it looks like this furniture was not really built in a way that accounts for seasonal wood movement. Specifically, it looks like the boards that make up the side are simply butt joined with their end grain into the long grain of the face. If you attempt to simply glue this back, the joint is sure to come apart within 1-2 years. A better fix would be to screw the frame back on. There are multiple ways to do this, but generally the screw needs to be countersunk/counterbored in an elongated hole that allows lateral wood movement (sliding) while still preventing the pieces from coming apart.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2018-11-01T11:30:09.763" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7929" CreationDate="2018-11-01T11:41:51.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to clarify: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&quot;stain&quot; only changes the color of the wood, it does not seal or protect it. &quot;Finish&quot; comes in two basic forms, film-forming and non-film-forming. These are applied to protect wood generally from moisture, abrasion, and UV if the piece is to be used outside. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wood need not be stained at all - that is purely an aesthetic choice. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wood need not be finished at all, but a clear finish can keep the wood looking as intended for longer. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sanding out stain or finish does not damage the wood. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you want to apply/reapply stain, the general recommendation is to stop sanding at around 180-220 grit, otherwise people report problems with even stain penetration and coloring . If you are going to apply a film finish, you could stop around 150-180 - more doesn't hurt, but it's just wasted effort. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like your piece was stained and finished on the top surface. The bottom surface generally doesn't need any help, but if you are going to use this furniture outside, applying a UV- and mold-inhibiting finish (eg, marine spar varnish) is often a good choice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately all of your 3 options will be fine, it's just a matter of how even you expect/want the stain coloring to be. Sanding things out partially then trying to perfectly match color will be extremely frustrating. The most straightforward approach (although it will mean a lot of physical work) would be to sand down to bare wood everywhere and then stain/finish as you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2018-11-01T11:41:51.937" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7930" CreationDate="2018-11-01T16:43:25.913" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to propose a solution that's pretty &quot;far out&quot;, because, like the other commenters have said, there is a fundamental problem with the case construction here.  I don't think this is really an elegant solution, but I also don't see any good way to fix this piece of furniture without totally rebuilding it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cut the bottom 1&quot;-2&quot; off the decorative feet that are part of the carcase sides and pull the legs of the piece together with a turnbuckle, allthread, or steel cable.  Leave this in place permanently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will close up the gaps and will let you avoid addressing the wood movement issue.  However it will leave exposed metal hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2018-11-01T16:43:25.913" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6987" CreationDate="2018-11-01T21:20:45.733" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can buy the vise screw pre-made if it's going to save you a lot of headache, but you can also make a screw of a custom size, in hardwood, by making your own tap and die. The DIY tap and dies work in principle identically to the ones you have in your garrettwade link. And tap and dies for wood operate identically to those used by ironworkers on metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With respect to buying a set, the tap and die sets you can buy are generally small, in the 3/8&amp;quot; - 1 1/2&amp;quot; diameter range (at least in the US and Canada). Anything larger would probably require you making one. I can't comment on the relation between the strength of the vise and its screw diameter, but you probably want a screw that will be big enough to withstand dropping a few tools and slabs on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last time I looked, the Lake Erie basic set promoted a maple thread that was approx 2-1/2&amp;quot; diameter and 19-1/4&amp;quot; long, with 2 turns per inch of screw movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do choose to make your own vise/thread, I can suggest the following resources and ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Option1: make your own tap and die&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was interested about this age-old puzzle, and found a pretty good account of how to craft one, out of virtually nothing but wood, a sharp piece of steel (and &lt;em&gt;a lot of time&lt;/em&gt;) in the book:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&amp;quot;Old Ways of Working Wood: The Techniques &amp;amp; Tools Of A Time-Honored Craft&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt;, (Revised Edition), by Alex W. Bealer, ISBN &lt;a href=&quot;https://isbnsearch.org/isbn/0785807101&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;0-7858-0710-1&lt;/a&gt;, pp 216.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we write in terms of &amp;quot;nuts and bolts&amp;quot;, the tap will help you form the nut, and the die will help you form the bolt (aka the vise screw). You make the tap first, and then use it to make the die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't replicate the illustrations from the book, but I can explain the gist of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need to first find or make a dowel with the desired inner-diameter of your screw. Making a large custom-sized dowel is a separate problem in itself. Short of buying one, you'd have to craft some sort of enlarged blade or chisel housing that works like a giant pencil sharpener. Or you could spin a lathe. Or something like this Matthias Wandel &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/yUmlMtpAj9o&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;contraption with a drill and a chisel&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, you have to choose a thread spacing (i.e. threads-per-inch). There's a bit of a chicken and egg problem in building the tap and die, because you need to model your thread off something. You can resolve this circular problem by neatly coiling a straight strip of paper around your dowel, and drawing a pencil line along the strips, to obtain something that looks like a candy cane / barber pole pattern. Then you saw along the line to make a flat groove. The groove doesn't need to be V-shaped yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use the flat groove to guide the dowel up and down in a corkscrew fashion, like so: take a block of wood, and drill a hole the size of the tap dowel through it. This gives you a cylindrical hole in which your dowel can slide smoothly up and down. Then, attach a small flat piece of steel (like a washer) solidly to the bottom of the block, offset from the bottom edge of the hole, just so that it peeks out the same distance as the depth of your saw groove. The piece of steel has to be small enough to slide along the groove. As you turn the grooved dowel, the metal piece glides into the groove, and will guide the dowel. So you have a working &amp;quot;corkscrew&amp;quot; motion down and up the cylinder housing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next step is to add some teeth along your tap dowel so that you can can use that action to scribe a thread on a nut the same size as your dowel. To make the teeth, it's common to temper the steel of an old file (to make it soft), hacksaw a section off, and then shape the section with a triangular file. It might help to encase a larger section of the file in some sort of mortise in your dowel, and shape out several teeth at once. The point of each tooth should line up with your thread pencil marks. To help with the cutting action, you can make multiple progressively bigger teeth. The largest tooth on your dowel will define the final shape of your groove. Technically you only need one tooth, but more will make tapping easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The die is slightly more complicated. You can see an example construction in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mTnVDl6Y6u4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Youtube: Making Wooden Threads - Homemade Tap and screw box&lt;/a&gt;. This is slightly different than what I described above, in that the worker starts from an existing metal screw thread for the tap to make the die box. In this version, the teeth on the tap are formed by filing a cross section of the existing threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A single tap box was sufficient in the video example. However, the book warns that it was common for woodworkers to create multiple die box (maybe 3) which would gradually deepen the v-groove of the same thread. So that's something to keep in mind -- it will be time-consuming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process in the video seems to mimic the Tap and Die creation described in Andre Jacob Roubo's compendium &amp;quot;Art du Menuisier&amp;quot; (circa 1770), part 3, section 3, chapter 13, plate 311. The original is in 18th century Parisian French, but it has been translated to English &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20180630215919/http://www.pbs.org/woodwrightsshop/project-guides/making-wooden-screws/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;in this guide&lt;/a&gt;. The method starts with a smooth round forged steel rod of the outer diameter size. If you don't have that, it's still useful because the description provides hints as to how to best design a solid wooden thread (pitch and inclination of thread). The way the initial thread is drawn is also slightly different than what I've described here, so that's worth reading as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Option2: Build Roy Underhill's screw box&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is like Option 1, but you get to watch someone do it on TV first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Season 27, Episode 04 of the Woodwright's worskshop is dedicated to it. Those episodes are supposed to be free to the public. And you can watch them online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pbs.org/video/woodwrights-shop-screw-box-wooden-threads/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.pbs.org/video/woodwrights-shop-screw-box-wooden-threads/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here's a youtube upload of the same episode: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BV4cADdZ6wY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BV4cADdZ6wY&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pbs.org/woodwrightsshop/project-guides/making-wooden-screws/the-carpenters-tap/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Related article&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Option3: make a thread with a router table (and a pantograph)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can take an existing screw and a router table and customize the thread density with a pantograph. You could then use that screw to make a nut, by adding progressively longer teeth along its thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WhOdrlGie68&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Youtube: How to make wooden threads&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2021-12-20T20:35:18.100" LastActivityDate="2021-12-20T20:35:18.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7930" CreationDate="2018-11-02T05:49:45.060" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You are not dealing with warped wood here.&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your last picture shows that you have a moisture problem (due to a change in the ambient moisture content of the air - change from a dry climate to a wet climate, moved outdoors from a controlled environment) that has caused the bottom to expand and in the process push the the front legs forward, breaking the end grain to face grain glue joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No amount of clamping, screwing or gluing is going to repair this.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There is excess wood and you must remove material.&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  It looks like there is about 1/8&quot; of excess wood(the width of the crack between the leg and the end panel).  A wide saw kerf should do the job, but I don't know how to do this without badly scratching the front skirt, but it will be the back of the skirt and out of sight. Someone else might know of an elegant way to do this &lt;em&gt;in situ&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a hand saw and cut a kerf using the front skirt as a guide. This will badly scratch the skirt, but it will be out of sight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a so called electric multi saw or a reciprocating saw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You might be able to attack the problem from the top side of the bottom pieces using a very thin chisel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately I foresee a lot putzing around by the time you have removed sufficient wood, but it should be out of sight&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you think that your kerf is wide enough use a bar clamp or a pipe clamp to draw the from leg back against the end panels (I suppose your ratchet strap would work as well).  If there is still a gap, remove more wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leaving the clamps in place, attach glue blocks (blocks of wood that are glued and or screwed) to both the leg and the panel.  Don't plan on gluing the panel to the leg. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2018-11-02T05:49:45.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7936" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-01T16:07:10.877" Score="0" ViewCount="824" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a table out of red oak. After I sanded it smooth, I stained it with minwax dark walnut (oil based) by using a stain sponge. I would wipe on the stain let it sit for 10 minutes and then I would wipe it off. I repeated that 2 times. It started seeping back up to the surface. I gave it 48 hours (wiping off the excess periodically) and after the 48 hours it stopped. I started to apply polycrylic finish and so far after 5 coats spots of the long grain is still rather bumpy and looks like tiny bubbles surfaced (some look like the pop i cant tell they are so small) and dry causing just the long grain to be rough. This doesn't occur anywhere else but on the long dark grain parts. Do I keep sanding and applying top coats until I have a smooth finish? Will this ever stop? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE - After doing some research I moved my table indoors where it is warmer (garage temp is around 45 degrees) to help it dry. Now I am seeing &quot;bleed back&quot; or stain seeping back to the surface again through the clear coat!! What do I do?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Craig" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2018-11-07T13:09:50.840" LastActivityDate="2018-11-07T13:09:50.840" Title="Polycrylic on Red Oak" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7936" CreationDate="2018-11-01T19:35:58.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, water based polys will raise the grain of the wood. This is normal. &#xA;Typically you'd spray the wood very lightly with plain water to get the grain to raise and sand it with something like a 320grit wet/dry paper to knock that raised portion off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you already applied the poly, you could still do the same- sand it lightly to knock the grain off and then LIGHTLY apply another coat. The lighter the better, as it will raise the grain less. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you're describing though sounds like more than just the result of water raising the grain- you may have applied the poly too thickly. In this case, i'd give it a decent sanding and apply yet another VERY THIN coat. Don't worry- the new coat should blend out the sanding marks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should result in a satisfactory finished product. What you are experiencing is exactly why I don't like using water-based polycrylic. That and it's less durable and less resistant to water damage (from cups, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Jamie M" LastActivityDate="2018-11-01T19:35:58.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7898" CreationDate="2018-11-03T01:05:46.383" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not presume to address the strength of end grain for holding screws, but I do concur that it's hit-and-miss, and not as strong as perpendicular.  If it won't be obvious or unsightly, you can get a stronger joint by drilling into the face of the wood and inserting and gluing a dowel.  You then drill your pilot hole into the end grain, through the dowel, and sink your screw there.  It'll hold much better than a screw into end grain alone.  It's kind of like inserting a poor man's barrel nut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1457" LastActivityDate="2018-11-03T01:05:46.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7940" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-04T06:36:11.663" Score="1" ViewCount="149" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is a woodworking Q&amp;amp;A, but since googling to the best of my keywording skills didn't work, I'm trying my luck here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to build a home office desk for myself, with a metal frame, but I'd like it not to be a one big welded piece of frame. I found this dinner table in a store that had this clever joinery, which could &quot;easily&quot; solve my problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone knows what it's called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Qijm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Qijm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;metal joint&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5735" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2018-11-05T05:49:31.763" LastActivityDate="2018-11-05T05:49:31.763" Title="What is the name of this kind of joint?" Tags="|joinery|hardware-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7940" CreationDate="2018-11-04T14:30:21.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try googling &quot;surface mount table leg corner bracket&quot;. You'll get lots of wood ones, but the principle extends to metal if you screw/tap stuff together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2018-11-04T14:30:21.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7928" CreationDate="2018-11-05T10:56:49.897" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) You can make a frame saw yourself from scratch or from a kit (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/item/GT-BOWS.XX/Gramercy_Tools_Bow_Saw_Kits_and_Parts&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/item/GT-BOWS.XX/Gramercy_Tools_Bow_Saw_Kits_and_Parts&lt;/a&gt;), buy one on ebay, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) The process in the video isn't as clean as you may think (see 2:25 of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YFqY73lelq8&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;quick dovetails&lt;/a&gt; video you linked to. If you zoom in you can clearly see the uneven nature of these dovetails. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sSeTG.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sSeTG.png&quot; alt=&quot;zoom_in&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Klausz is working in pine. If you are in the ballpark of accuracy, you can hammer the two boards together and the pine will compress enough for the joint to close! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) You don't need frame saws. In &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0962800147&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Precision Handcutting of Dovetails: With a Sequence to the Author's Fifty Years As a Planemaker and User Hardcover&#xA;by Cecil E. Pierce&lt;/a&gt;, Pierce uses a hacksaw and coping saw to cut dovetails. A coping saw will do the same 'trick' as the second frame saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5) A coping saw will turn in a similar way (i.e. under tension rotated 90 degrees), easier than the frame saw in the video. For me, the thin blade is slightly harder to cut a clean flat line due narrower blade, but this too, yields to practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6) You will notice that two saws are being used. The bigger saw, first used, leaves a wide kerf. That width gives enough 'wiggle room' to rotate the second saw somewhat before starting the cut, allowing the second saw to continue to rotate as it begins to cut. Neat trick, eh. In my experience, this is the reason for the two saws. If two saws weren't needed, Klausz would be even faster!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7) This skill, in my experience, isn't hard to learn. It isn't a '10 years to learn' but more like '30 joints to learn'. Go and buy a few pine boards and cut them into 8&quot; lengths and cut dovetails in every piece. By the end of the first day, you too will be able bang together joints. You will also have a greater (but different) appreciation for Klausz's casual approach to laying out the joinery. :) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastActivityDate="2018-11-05T10:56:49.897" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7943" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7944" CreationDate="2018-11-05T14:26:11.907" Score="4" ViewCount="1191" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have created a door panel that has a herringbone design using 1&quot; x 6&quot; thin black walnut panels. I went through and filled small cracks with a glue / sawdust mix and then sanded it down as normal with a random orbital sander. It looks great when looking at it but feeling it, I can feel where I wasn't as even at the spots that had the putty. I want to of course correct this before applying finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some effective ways to take out these &quot;wavy&quot; spots? The random orbital seems to take forever even with a 60 grit so was hoping for something easier. Would a wide belt sander do a better job at leveling these out? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2018-11-06T06:20:13.083" LastActivityDate="2022-06-27T00:32:47.687" Title="How to flatten out a wavy panel?" Tags="|sanding|cabinet-scraper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7943" CreationDate="2018-11-05T16:38:40.753" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some sort of planer or scraper is probably what you want. Sanding can take edges off bumps, but isn't actually that great for getting things &lt;em&gt;flat&lt;/em&gt;. (Well, not unless you put sandpaper on something very hard and flat. e.g., when truing up metal surfaces by lapping them on fine grit paper attached to a nice flat surface.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you are going to the effort of creating a nice piece of cabinetry, it may make sense to use a cabinetry finishing tool, and take off targeted curls of material where the bumps are, letting your hand and eye tell you when you've trued things up enough. As per the comment, use a straightedge to get an idea of where the high spots are. Mark these and take your time to get the panel down to reasonably true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I actually wouldn't use a belt sander for this purpose, as it seems a bit overkill. Belt sanders, to me, are for taking off material fast, but as a finishing step I think I'd be afraid it was too aggressive. Not to mention that I think the main issue you are going to have is that the material you are trying to level is a mixture of hardnesses, so the softer material will always come off faster. Sometimes you end up chasing trueness as you gouge out the softer material faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Luthier&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Luthiers&lt;/a&gt; would use calipers to test thickness, making pencil marks where material should come off. Then they scrape, test, mark, repeat. You can do this, too, if you want a very nice true finish. This might be overkill for the purpose discussed here, but if you have marking calipers these can work similarly to a straightedge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.stewmac.com/video-and-ideas/online-resources/learn-about-building-instruments-and-kits/scraping-not-sanding-to-prepare-wood-for-finishing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;There is an art to using and maintaining scrapers for this purpose&lt;/a&gt;, but the results are way better than sandpaper (IMHO). Once you get the hang of it, it is super easy to target fine areas without touching areas around it -- something sanders are just not that great at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find more details about scrapers by searching &amp;quot;finishing scraper&amp;quot; in your favourite web search. That got me enough results to fall down a rabbit hole of related information!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorUserId="32" LastEditDate="2022-06-27T00:32:47.687" LastActivityDate="2022-06-27T00:32:47.687" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7945" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-11-06T06:39:54.487" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2018-11-06T06:39:54.487" LastActivityDate="2018-11-06T06:39:54.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7946" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-11-06T06:39:54.487" Score="0" Body="Preparing and using hand-held cabinet scrapers" OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2018-11-06T15:45:03.327" LastActivityDate="2018-11-06T15:45:03.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="99" CreationDate="2018-11-06T13:06:33.410" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just flattened a glued-up panel very successfully using a finely tuned handplane. It is a skill to be sure - it needs to be very sharp and set up properly - take very thin shavings. When dealing with reversing grain, it also helps to use a higher angle blade... usually planes are 45 º, but higher angles can be accomplished by sharpening with a back bevel, for example. This bevel does not need to be even large enough to be visible - just raise the back up about 5 º from horizontal on your final polishing stone. This will give a 50 º total bevel angle, and along with the edge being sharp, will work very well against the grain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My approach to planing panels is actually to plane directly across the grain as the first step, then proceeding to angle the direction as per saltface's answer. Go 90 º to the grain until you don't feel any steps across your glue lines. Doing this properly gives much less tear out than you'd initially suspect and it makes for easy and quick work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While a card or cabinet scraper will work, you would need to take care not to get a wavy surface. This is because the bed of the cabinet scraper (indeed a &lt;em&gt;card&lt;/em&gt; scraper has no bed and it completely unsupported) is much shorter than a smoothing plane. In any event, these are both two useful skills to develop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2018-11-06T13:06:33.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6987" CreationDate="2018-11-06T21:31:27.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dieter Schmid sells wooden &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fine-tools.com/gewind.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;threading tools&lt;/a&gt;  of larger diameters, but the 2 1/2&quot; set will set you back about $1350. So, if your goal is to build a workbench, Lake Erie is probably a better deal. You would need to make 8 screws to break even (at least three workbenches for any reasonable vise configuration).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something to consider, though, is that you would be able to make your own high quality wooden clamps and hand screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3562" LastActivityDate="2018-11-06T21:31:27.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7949" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-07T03:26:25.703" Score="0" ViewCount="905" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m doing a refinishing project  for someone and I’ve ran into quite an issue. The color of the wood is not coming out evenly. I’ve only applied one coat for the most part and am starting to sanding in between coats. The color however is still blotchy. What can I do to fix this? I’ve had to resand a good portion of this already. i am afraid if it doing the same thing. I am not applying heavy and you can clearly see the color difference from any angle. It seems to be the wood color. Like the wood isn’t taking the clearcoat the same. I can possibly sand it down anymore. Please help cuz I’m at a loss in how to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5753" LastActivityDate="2018-11-07T03:26:25.703" Title="Blotchy clear coat water based poly on natural finish" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7950" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-07T18:17:20.233" Score="1" ViewCount="133" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if anyone has ever owned/ heard of a Black and Decker Contractor Table Saw with a rack and pinion fence, released sometimes in the 80's. My dad told me about these saws but I would like more information, as Google comes up with nothing. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5755" LastEditorUserId="158" LastEditDate="2018-11-24T10:40:49.243" LastActivityDate="2018-11-24T10:40:49.243" Title="Info on 1980's Black and Decker contractor saw with rack &amp; pinion fence?" Tags="|table-saw|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7951" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-07T19:57:16.573" Score="3" ViewCount="854" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have several larger pieces of Cherry burl (2' diameter each) that have the bark still intact. These pieces have been drying for several years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My intent is to cut them into blanks and cast with a resin into a hybrid blank. Because of this, I'd like to only remove the bark and leave the contours of the live edge intact. I also have the advantage where I do not need the full burl intact as a large piece (if it's easier to cut first and remove the bark from smaller pieces). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read in several places that a pressure washer can be used for this purpose, but my concerns are safety and risk of the wood cracking due to being introduced to moisture and drying again after years of being dry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3789" LastActivityDate="2019-05-15T15:06:57.473" Title="What is an safe and effective way to remove bark from a burl without damaging the rest of the wood?" Tags="|water-protection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7952" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7953" CreationDate="2018-11-08T01:48:39.190" Score="3" ViewCount="409" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made a through tenon joint but the tenon is a little long.  How do I plane it even with the surrounding area without the plane blade cutting anywhere other than the tenon?....if that makes any sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5319" LastActivityDate="2018-11-08T15:05:35.043" Title="How to plane the end of a through tenon without damaging surrounding area?" Tags="|plane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7952" CreationDate="2018-11-08T06:06:55.510" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Flushing the tenon&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There are a couple of ways you can approach this, but it is actually most common to take the projecting tenon down until just about flush&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, and then planing right through (in the direction of the grain of the surrounding wood in case that's not obvious). As far as 'damaging' the immediate area by doing this it's not normally a problem because the piece won't yet be finished, and even if this planing is only done locally the minuscule amount of wood you remove — a few thousandths of an inch at most / ~0.1mm — isn't usually important. This is really the only way to achieve flawless results like the following, although it would be very common to do some sanding as well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0QOrU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0QOrU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Flush through tenons&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the surrounding surface is pre-finished (and you should ask yourself why in this case) so you don't want to touch it with a plane it's &lt;em&gt;just about&lt;/em&gt; possible to make the tenon end flush by protecting the surrounding area with tape and planing very cautiously, but it is tricky and even taking the thinnest shavings possible&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; you have to be extremely careful. I wouldn't expect a perfect outcome every time doing this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Optionally, leave it proud&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Given the above one good option is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; to strive to make the tenon end dead flush and instead deliberately leave it projecting. While the look this gives is not to every taste it has a long history in woodworking and is often seen as a sign of quality craftsmanship (although to be fair a perfectly flushed tenon should be too). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually projecting tenons are chamfered somewhat or gently rounded over, this is partly by necessity so the tenon doesn't have sharp corners that will catch on things but it's also for aesthetic reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IeIqg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IeIqg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Projecting through tenons&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Often the bulk is taken off by sawing, then maybe some paring with a chisel, although these days with power sanders it wouldn't be unheard of to use sanding for the whole operation. You can also use a router to do this, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.startwoodworking.com/post/build-flush-trim-base-your-router&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here on Startwoodworking.com&lt;/a&gt;, but note the use of a hand plane to complete the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; 0.001&quot; / 0.02mm or under.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2018-11-08T15:05:35.043" LastActivityDate="2018-11-08T15:05:35.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7954" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-08T18:42:47.440" Score="0" ViewCount="532" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently in the process of building a red cedar tabletop with laminated live edge slabs.  Thickness should be around 7/4.  However, I'm unsure what to use for finishing it.  Given the wood is so soft, the abuse it will receive at a hunting lodge will be pretty significant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I considered epoxy, however I learned the hard way that epoxy flood coats and wood movement are not good friends. Any advice is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5739" LastActivityDate="2018-11-15T17:29:01.227" Title="Finishing Red Cedar Tabletop" Tags="|finish-selection|tabletop|softwood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5854" CreationDate="2018-11-09T03:44:09.687" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;An impact driver is primary a single purpose tool for installing or removing threaded fasteners, at this it is very good. Much less striped heads or broken screws, and less torque on your wrists.&#xA;In short if you drive screws you need one. Ditto to most of what was said above but I use mine for all screws. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2018-11-09T03:44:09.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7957" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7958" CreationDate="2018-11-09T23:20:22.183" Score="5" ViewCount="5727" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm learning how to apply polyurethane and am very bothered by the strong fumes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this mask from Harbor Freight sufficient protection for health purposes and will it help to filter out the smell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was told that a normal dust mask or particle respirator is not sufficient for either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rsdV2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8lAj6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The P95 Maintenance-Free Dual Cartridge Respirator is also available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://m.harborfreight.com/p95-maintenance-free-dual-cartridge-respirator-66554.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://m.harborfreight.com/p95-maintenance-free-dual-cartridge-respirator-66554.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5763" LastActivityDate="2021-01-12T15:40:27.187" Title="Is this mask sufficient to filter polyurethane fumes?" Tags="|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7957" CreationDate="2018-11-10T00:24:39.593" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everyone has different standards for their health, but I would not personally consider this sufficient for working with oil-based polyurethane.  It does not mention &quot;organic&quot; vapors or &quot;VOC&quot; (volitile organic compounds) anywhere on the packaging.  The activated carbon might help with odors, but it hasn't been certified to do anything for your health.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key thing that you need is the &quot;P&quot; rating (i.e. &quot;P95&quot; or &quot;P100&quot;), which indicates that it is reusable (up to 40 hours) for VOC environments.  &quot;N&quot; rated masks/cartridges are for dust only, and &quot;R&quot; rated are for VOC environments up to 8 hours.  The number (95 or 100) indicates what percentage of the hazard they can filter out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll also need to make sure that your respirator is the right size, is adjusted correctly, that you do not have facial hair that interferes with the seal, that it is in good repair (i.e. the valves close), and that the cartridges are changed per schedule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2018-11-10T00:24:39.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7959" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-10T00:48:40.163" Score="5" ViewCount="18326" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm finishing a very rough piece of scrap wood for use as a tabletop and to practice applying polyurethane. I've since found that the holes and gaps aren't really &quot;filled&quot; by the material and that I should have used wood putty first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've already applied multiple coats of polyurethane. How can I address the surface to smooth out the gaps, gouges, deep scratches, and holes, before applying another coat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GIuzE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V5MGg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BTvJm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RtpNU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c8obU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EpXjp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NT3CW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5763" LastEditorUserId="8085" LastEditDate="2020-01-27T12:46:57.580" LastActivityDate="2020-12-16T23:44:50.353" Title="How to fill in holes and gaps after applying polyurethane" Tags="|finishing|wood-repair|polyurethane|filler|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7961" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7965" CreationDate="2018-11-11T08:03:03.687" Score="-2" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never done woodworking, but it seems cool and I would love to become good at it, where should I start? where did you start?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5768" LastActivityDate="2018-11-12T05:34:05.387" Title="Help me get started" Tags="|safety|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ClosedDate="2018-11-17T22:27:02.377" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7963" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-11T11:32:24.457" Score="3" ViewCount="549" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to build a heavy duty work bench from a custom end grain butcher block table. The maker offers five different woods: maple, oak, cherry, walnut, and industrial maple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that oak is stronger than maple, but will it make a difference? How much stronger is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this table will be used for metal working (heavy hammering) and supporting heavy, cast iron machine tools, like arbor presses, so it's got to be very strong and rigid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, what about walnut, its a lot more expensive. Would it have any advantages? Harder than maple maybe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2018-11-14T19:59:55.867" Title="Strength of oak versus maple" Tags="|table-making|workbench|materials|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7963" CreationDate="2018-11-11T13:11:15.727" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Strength should not be your concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A butcher-block slab with a large unsupported span is likely to to fail - the vertically-oriented wood fibers will separate (which happens normally with moisture changes and is called checking) under any load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your slab must be supported by an underlying structure which will prevent any flexing loads from being applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hardness is measured (for wood) on the Janka scale, and you can find a comparison chart &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=https://www.builddirect.com/learning-center/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/Janka_Chart.jpg&amp;amp;imgrefurl=https://www.builddirect.com/learning-center/flooring/janka-hardness-rating-scale/&amp;amp;h=414&amp;amp;w=500&amp;amp;tbnid=xYTwHsJDFeHjOM:&amp;amp;q=Janka%20hardness%20test&amp;amp;tbnh=166&amp;amp;tbnw=200&amp;amp;usg=AI4_-kTHHwUXX9KLw8C1uPz5qdTnMwUlaw&amp;amp;vet=12ahUKEwiQ0JDbtMzeAhUhVt8KHU_dAOQQ_B0wG3oECAIQBg..i&amp;amp;docid=FzVMYmg_RXF3GM&amp;amp;itg=1&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=2ahUKEwiQ0JDbtMzeAhUhVt8KHU_dAOQQ_B0wG3oECAIQBg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL:DR - Go with maple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="463" LastActivityDate="2018-11-11T13:11:15.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7961" CreationDate="2018-11-11T13:16:47.380" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buy a circular saw and a drill. Best tools you could own. You could build lots of things with those 2 simple tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5755" LastActivityDate="2018-11-11T13:16:47.380" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7966" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-11T15:46:50.093" Score="1" ViewCount="234" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am about to buy my first tools! I am considering getting a circular saw and am looking for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;recommendations of what features I should pay attention to? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;something that would be suitable for a novice? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to use these tools for work at home, but for nothing too complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5768" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2018-11-19T07:16:26.713" LastActivityDate="2019-03-11T04:09:34.903" Title="What features should I look for when buying my first circular saw?" Tags="|tool-selection|circular-saw|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7966" CreationDate="2018-11-11T16:16:24.680" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would avoid Skil branded saws ( usually $20-30).  Now they shouldn't be confused with saws branded Skilsaw. These are much heavier duty but kinda pricey. For a beginner I would recommend a Bosch Cs10 or a Dewalt corded saw. As for a drill I would recommend getting a cordless drill. Much more versatile and suitable for beginners and pros alike. You could also even considering buying a cordless tool combo kit. These could include circular saws, drills, a flashlight, among others. They are more expensive but you get more tools for the price. DeWalt sells kits that are very good. Other companies do as well. It's more of a personal preference. This is just my opinion so don't think you have to follow it exactly. Have fun in your woodworking journey! You won't regret it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5755" LastActivityDate="2018-11-11T16:16:24.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7968" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8447" CreationDate="2018-11-12T01:37:22.923" Score="1" ViewCount="876" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a wood lathe with a #1 morse taper. Most of the accessories that I can get locally have an #2 taper. I need an adapter that will let me -for example- use a MT#2 pen mandrel in a MT#1 lathe. Is there such a thing in existence (or any other tool that I can use)? I've seen the opposite adapter being sold but for the life of me could not find the one I'm describing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2838" LastActivityDate="2019-03-28T05:45:26.503" Title="Morse taper #2 to #1 converter" Tags="|turning|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7961" CreationDate="2018-11-12T05:34:05.387" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ditto the above I have seen impressive things made from pallets and bits of other materials. The tools in my shop range from the very best to bargain basement, many of my tools were used. simple and impressive are turnings pens,bottle stoppers, ... a small lathe can be had fairly cheaply around $200 new, I have turned 200+ pens on one. You will also need turning tools and a drill press that would put you at around $400 not so cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2018-11-12T05:34:05.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7968" CreationDate="2018-11-12T05:46:44.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Penn State Industries and other suppliers of pen turning may have what you are looking for. I have a #1 pen mandrel some where in my shop ordered by mistake. A decent mini lathe can be had for under $250 that has a MT#2, I have turned 200+ pens on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2018-11-12T05:46:44.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7971" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7972" CreationDate="2018-11-12T11:39:24.393" Score="2" ViewCount="498" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought 2 inch thick oak decks that have been seasoned for a year outside. I would like to start gluing them together i.e. to make a bench top (and eventually a whole woodworking bench)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I risk? Is it possible that if I glue it together it will later crack or deform?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5771" LastEditorUserId="5771" LastEditDate="2018-11-19T12:21:26.190" LastActivityDate="2018-11-19T12:21:26.190" Title="What problems might occur attempting to glue wood that hasn't been fully seasoned?" Tags="|wood-drying|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7971" CreationDate="2018-11-12T15:09:50.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your assumptions are correct: the wood will move as it acclimatizes to any indoor space, and your glued-up joints and panels might move a lot as it dries. Depending on total moisture content now and in your shop (and, of course, exactly how the joints are made, since wood moves more across the grain than with it) it might not be a disaster, but if that lumber decides to move, there isn't going to be any glue joint in the world that keeps it from moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if it was covered outside, the moisture content will be a lot higher than most indoor spaces in North America. Though, since you are making a bench, it is possible that you are in a partially heated shop, which might be a bit more damp. Still, the moisture content would ideally be in the single digits (&amp;lt;10%) before you start working it, and for installation in a fully heated indoor space closer to 6%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To reduce checking and cracking, the simplest thing you can do is to stack and sticker it indoors for about a month prior to working with it. You should paint the ends with end-grain sealant so you slow down drying that can cause checking. (The usual advice here is to &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; use latex paint, but proper end-grain sealant.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2018-11-12T15:23:39.663" LastActivityDate="2018-11-12T15:23:39.663" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7973" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7974" CreationDate="2018-11-12T16:50:49.747" Score="4" ViewCount="1040" Body="&lt;p&gt;The track saw I have is the Bosch GKT13-225L, which I usually use to cut plywood sheets. I had to cut some 2x12 lumber to make 2x8's but I don't have a table saw, so I figured I could use the track saw since the blade could reach all the way through. The blade is a &quot;6-1/2 48-tooth universal blade&quot; according to Bosch, but no other details are provided by them. When I started cutting, the track saw was moving extremely slowly and at some points struggling to cut through. The saw got stuck halfway through the cut, so I had to pull it out with some force. There seems to be no damage to the saw and the cut looks clean so far, so I'm not sure whether I should continue using it. Is it common practice to use it for this kind of application?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5772" LastEditorUserId="5772" LastEditDate="2018-11-12T18:01:10.980" LastActivityDate="2018-11-13T17:38:44.327" Title="Should I use a track saw to cut through 2x12 lumber?" Tags="|power-tools|cutting|lumber|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7973" CreationDate="2018-11-12T17:53:19.757" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;(I'm hesitant to leave an Answer because we might not have enough information in the Question, but my comment was turning into an answer anyway.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That saw is rated for 13A so it should have the grunt to rip stock like this, but you will have to find the right feed speed, and you may have to choose a more aggressive blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might have a combination blade which &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be ok for ripping, in which case see if the stock is pinching the blade and reconfigure your setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you have a fine cross-cut or laminate blade it is going to make the saw work hard. You have to balance the cut finish with blade aggressiveness. Maybe test on some scrap first, and leave the cut a little proud so you have a rough edge that can be finished to the correct dimensions if the rip blades leave things a little messy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are lots of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/selecting-the-proper-saw-blade-3536876&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;references for cross-cut vs. rip vs. combination blades on the internet&lt;/a&gt;, but your local hardware store will be able to give you a good tour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, fewer, taller teeth and taller gullet means a more aggressive cut, and is suitable for ripping. Ripping blades often don't have alternating left-right cutting chisels on the teeth, which is more useful for cross-cutting. So blades for cross-cutting often have alternating chisel-like, smaller teeth. Cross-cut blades have a very distinctive and wider kerf as a result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combination blades try to find a balance between these two extremes. They have a bit wider kerf than a pure rip blade, and the chisel tips will be less aggressive. There will be a modest amount of teeth somewhere in between a pure rip and pure cross-cut blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Laminate blades will have a lot of smaller teeth and a thin kerf for a nice smooth finish with little laminate tearing. These will really lug trying to rip dimension lumber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2018-11-12T18:34:20.967" LastActivityDate="2018-11-12T18:34:20.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7973" CreationDate="2018-11-13T17:38:44.327" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds to me like your wood is moving after the cut (closing up the kerf) and binding your blade.  Assuming this is the case, I'd suggest that you make the cut in several passes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clamp your track to the keeper piece to make sure it shifts as little as possible between passes.  Then cut one foot, stop, raise your saw, move your saw back to the start, cut two feet, move your saw back to the start, etc.  This will remove the material that moves into the kerf after each pass and prevent your saw from binding.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also take a careful look at how your material is supported and if it's cupped.  If you're cutting with the cup facing down then the material will tend to sag as you cut it, again binding your blade.  Make sure that the cupped side is up when you rip anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2018-11-13T17:38:44.327" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7977" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-13T23:33:35.747" Score="1" ViewCount="563" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to know how I can make the C side of ACX plywood have a more finished look by smoothing and filling.  What should I use and how should I do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Background:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am making french cleat for my shop and am using ACX for it. Since some of the cleats are going to be visible I want to fill the voids in the C side and then smooth it out to approximate the A side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I may or may not finish the cleats but if I did it would be stain or paint. I am cutting the cleats by cutting the plywood in 5&quot; strips and then setting the table saw for 45 degree and cutting the strips in half. When putting on wall one of the final pieces shows the A side and the other shows the C side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5499" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-04-17T19:37:02.243" LastActivityDate="2021-02-06T17:05:10.507" Title="How do I smooth and fill in the C side of ACX plywood?" Tags="|finishing|plywood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7977" CreationDate="2018-11-14T01:23:28.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plywood is surprisingly variable for a product intended to be consistent and not all C-grade sides are the same by any means. If you can't select the plywood to minimise or avoid the worst defects possible on the C side you may need to choose how you finish based on the piece or pieces of plywood that you're actually dealing with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply sanding up to a normal finishing grit, 180-220, will do quite a bit all by itself and followed by the application of finish (with possibly a small amount of additional light sanding during the process) may be enough to yield a surface you find very acceptable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this is just about surface quality. Knots, patches and seams are all possible (but very variable) and they can be visually disturbing, and little short of painting will do much to diminish them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The choice of final finish here is completely up to you, wax (with or without a sealer coat*, an oil or oil finish, shellac, varnish, lacquer and waterbased finishes are all viable alternatives. And paint is also an option. Paint is a great equaliser, and can do the most to even up the appearance of the most knotty or patched plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*This can be a commercial 'sanding sealer' or nearly any finish applied diluted, excepting waterbased finishes which are not normally used heavily thinned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-11-14T01:23:28.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7963" CreationDate="2018-11-14T19:59:55.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oak may be harder than maple (I don't actually have numbers to prove you right or wrong) but in my experience maple is much less likely to split along the grain, especially in butcher block format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oak grain is larger, and short chunks of butcher block will have bits of wood falling off the edges at the first nick from anything heavy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Walnut is beautiful, don't spend the money on it because you won't want to get it dirty. Hardness, again I'd say it's up there with maple in grain integrity, depending on the walnut it can be significantly harder or softer (maple also varies significantly)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2689" LastActivityDate="2018-11-14T19:59:55.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7968" CreationDate="2018-11-15T13:54:12.850" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The #1MT is smaller than the #2MT, so essentially such a setup would be less safe than investing in the better equipment (a #2MT lathe). The &quot;animal&quot; would basically be a #1MT on one end, and a #2MT at the other end, leaving you hanging nearly 5 inches off your bearings before you even attach to your project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, any variance in concentricity would be multiplied and the effective wear on your bearings (not to mention the quality of the work) would be significant.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reverse situation (#2MT to #1MT) has adapter sleeves (where the #1 sits inside the #2) you can use such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/113/5484/Turners-Select-Morse-Taper-Reducer?term=#1mt&amp;amp;term=#1mt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/113/5484/Turners-Select-Morse-Taper-Reducer?term=#1mt&amp;amp;term=#1mt&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, there are many #1MT accessories at Penn State, Craft Supply, and Packard, if you look.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone mentioned a blacksmith, which may be an option, or a machine shop.  Either could be more expensive than a new lathe that meets your needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck with your search.  I know getting started requires either creative thought or lots of money.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastActivityDate="2018-11-15T13:54:12.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7954" CreationDate="2018-11-15T17:29:01.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quickly, my answer is Epoxy, but to your point, there is wood movement to contend with, so the answer is not that simple.  I guess my point is that epoxy is not a single product, and you might look into those epoxies more dedicated to finish than to adhesive applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first attempt at Epoxy finish was with Bar Top, which is very viscus, and although trying to follow the instructions, I found that there is a lot of lore around it.  First and foremost, mix the product well, then mix some more.  In my case, wood movement would not have been an issue since it never setup completely.  That's on me, not the product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I cleared out my issues, that product is fantastic when you lay an initial thin (not viscosity, but rather depth) layer, working out the bubbles (with a heat gun) that will surely appear.  The second layer tends to be the thick &quot;Bar top&quot; layer. That bar top, veneer over substrate, was solid for the three years I had the house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another product that I'm not sure is still available is a &quot;water thin&quot; two part that I found at James Town (&lt;a href=&quot;http://jamestowndistributors.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://jamestowndistributors.com/&lt;/a&gt;).  Fine Woodworking did a study on longevity and found that this epoxy would not only &quot;cure&quot; punky wood, but for a door subject to weather, it provided a strong flexible base to any other finish such as Spar Varnish.  I still keep what I have as a two part, and when I have to get a good finish on questionable wood (and Cedar tends to fall into that bucket) it is what I reach for. In my mind, you can decide to sand, reapply, sand, etc. or in my door's case, apply the epoxy, set, then sand and use your favorite varnish or other finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;James Town now refers to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=97636&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=97636&lt;/a&gt; or &quot;Penetrating Epoxy&quot;  I have not tried this replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the other products out there can be inflexible once cured, but I've yet to see a failure with the Penetrating base.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck, and know nothing is absolute here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastActivityDate="2018-11-15T17:29:01.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7966" CreationDate="2018-11-15T21:15:48.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a novice/beginner, no brand or model # recommendation should be necessary as almost all the common drill and saw brands should meet your non-commercial home use requirements. &#xA;Those &quot;Best&quot; tool lists are usually filled with tools targeted to the commercial user and will likely exceed all your requirements and cost a lot more than necessary for your usage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Battery powered drills and saws are not recommended for the beginner as battery maintenance and tool compatibility adds another layer of complexity to tool ownership. Batteries also have a limited life span, even when unused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What will make a big difference for the beginner is after-sales support, you need to buy the tool from a place with competent customer support. With a salesperson that can answer any generic questions you have about the tool and its accessories. If you have a local tool store or home improvement store, you should check those places out first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Around here I would expect to spend around $50 for a decent general purpose corded drill, and around $100 for a decent 7-1/4 inch corded circular saw. All the ones for sale in my local home depot/lowes around that price range are good enough for the novice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="453" LastActivityDate="2018-11-15T21:15:48.897" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7983" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-16T02:09:43.483" Score="5" ViewCount="16984" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a cast iron bench with wooden slats that have rotted outdoors. The environment is coastal New England, so there are extremes of temperature, salt, and ice. The type of bench is shown in the image below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cZ4Zb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cZ4Zb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What type(s) of wood would be appropriate for this use and how should I treat it, or seal it against the elements after I replace the slats?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2024-01-06T18:45:00.850" Title="What kind of wood is appropriate for a cast iron bench?" Tags="|wood-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7983" CreationDate="2018-11-16T08:53:46.597" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What type(s) of wood would be appropriate for this use &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The usual answer to this commercially from back in our parents' day to recently has been one of a number of tropical hardwoods, including teak in the past, and more recently iroko and ipe. For many teak has now become unobtainable, or prohibitively expensive, and iroko is not much cheaper. And the price of ipe is certainly not dropping any time soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Domestic woods&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Anyone living in the west should have access to native woods that are naturally rot-resistant as there are a few species with high exterior durability growing in all parts of the world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For North America you're in a lucky position as there are a good number of options, see this table from the Forest Products Laboratory showing the relative decay resistance of commonly available woods:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dBO8K.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dBO8K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Decay resistance&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any wood from the Resistant column will give the kind of durability wanted, and even a few from the Moderately Resistant column can prove to be acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Not just natural wood&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In addition to natural woods there are now treated woods such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.accoya.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Accoya&lt;/a&gt; which offer the same sort of durability. Cost and availability can be a problem, but they do come with a guarantee which other woods do not!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;how should I treat it, or seal it against the elements after I replace the slats?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With species that have high natural resistance to rot you don't have to do anything to them for them to endure outdoors, this is one of the reasons for using them in the first place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On boats and for garden furniture teak was traditionally often left bare, to weather to a silvery grey. But not everyone likes this look and would prefer their wood to keep its original appearance, which led to the development of &quot;teak oil&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today, while &quot;teak oil&quot; is still widely sold&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; there are various other treatments and coatings available which provide varying levels of protection and a range of looks, including penetrating clear wood sealers at one end and CPES followed by marine varnish at the other extreme. And of course there is paint, which has always been available to provide excellent protection to wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you are OK with finishing....&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It's important to realise the implication of finishing products providing good protection from the elements even to common softwoods. If you are comfortable using a given protective finish (not just at time of build, remember there will be an upkeep schedule&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;) it opens up your choice of wood to nearly anything that meets your other requirements — cost, stiffness, looks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; More than a dozen brands are available in the US although it's important to note that they are by no means all the same finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; From yearly at the low end to a maximum of about 5-7 years for the majority of consumer-level finishes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2018-11-17T07:03:15.270" LastActivityDate="2018-11-17T07:03:15.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7985" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-16T19:01:23.707" Score="2" ViewCount="228" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a 1.5&quot; thick end grain cutting board with the attached design. Using maple, walnut, and cherry. The wider maple portion on the end could be done using a 6&quot; wide piece of maple, or I could cut 3, 2&quot; strips. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is one choice better than the other for warping in a cutting board? Is it purely visual? The 2&quot; strips will give a slight checkerboard pattern vs the bigger 6&quot; pieces. Any other considerations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RqON1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RqON1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5787" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2018-11-16T19:14:53.513" LastActivityDate="2018-11-16T19:14:53.513" Title="Is there too wide a board to use for an end grain cutting board?" Tags="|cutting-board|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7986" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7987" CreationDate="2018-11-16T22:52:48.720" Score="1" ViewCount="335" Body="&lt;p&gt;Exhibit A, Ryobi 10&quot; surface planer purchased from a yard sale. The blades are wonderfully sharp and the surface of the planed work piece is quite smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WFZiF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WFZiF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Surface Planer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No owner's manual, but I was able to find one online. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been using this tool to plane down resawn 1x4 and 1x2 poplar, sometimes some 1x6 stock too. I use a resaw fence on my bandsaw and get the stock close to 1/8&quot; thick, then run it through the planer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Curiously, as part of my research for this question, I discovered that the manual has a lower limit of 1/2&quot; thick stock, yet I've been having good results going to 1/8&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps this is directly related, but when I put the fresh stock into the machine, I am careful to ensure that it's inserted flat, yet the first inch and a half gets scooped deeper than the desired thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xLJL4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xLJL4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;scooped end&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xuTTu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xuTTu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;scooped end 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've considered to use a carrier board if the wood is part of an important project, but when it's not a critical issue, I can compensate for the extra lost material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've not had to plane stock that falls within the manual's restrictions. Is it correct to believe that the scooping is caused by the under-thick work stock? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2018-11-16T23:00:16.363" Title="How to stop surface planer from scooping work piece ends" Tags="|thickness-planer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2018-11-16T23:15:57.870" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7986" CreationDate="2018-11-16T23:00:16.363" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is called snipe, or planer snipe, and is present on pretty much every planer. Some have more than others, but it's there. It has to do with the pressure the rollers exert on the workpiece as they're feeding it through - when only one roller (front or back) is pressing down, the workpiece lifts up slightly and a little bit more is planed off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few ways to combat snipe - put the workpiece on a sled, feed longer pieces of scrap alongside your workpiece (so the scraps absorb the snipe), or keep your pieces long until after planing and cut off the sniped ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which method you use probably depends on how much extra material you have, how critical the piece is, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastActivityDate="2018-11-16T23:00:16.363" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7898" CreationDate="2018-11-17T08:58:23.143" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The resistance of screws to being pulled free has been studied widely and for a long time (1920s or earlier), both by individual companies testing their own and competitor products and by government bodies doing work for the benefit of their industries. Perhaps most well known of the latter is the USDA's Forest Products Laboratory, the FPL. In their (primary?) publication &lt;strong&gt;Wood as an Engineering Material&lt;/strong&gt;, chapter 8, &lt;em&gt;Fastenings&lt;/em&gt;, it states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The withdrawal loads of screws inserted in the end grain of wood are &lt;strong&gt;somewhat erratic&lt;/strong&gt;, but when splitting is avoided, they should average 75% of the load sustained by screws inserted in the side grain.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;My emphasis. The individual character of the wood at the exact site of each screw is going to be important, a mere 1/2&quot; (13mm) to one side or another the one piece of wood can exhibit great variability in grain direction, and therefore in how well it can hold a screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the next entry on lag screws:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The resistance to withdrawal of a lag screw from the end-grain surface of a piece of wood is about three-fourths as great as its resistance to withdrawal from the side-grain surface of the same piece.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although I suspect the picture is much more complex that this indicates this gives us a rough guide. As I mentioned in a Comment early on I don't think it can be assumed that all types of screw have the same relationship between their withdrawal resistance in long grain and end grain&lt;sup&gt;1,&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Maximising screw holding power&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The publication repeatedly mentions the need for properly sized pilot holes and this is important. Apart from being unsightly when wood splits the holding power of fasteners is greatly reduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Splitting is largely avoided by the drilling of correctly sized pilot holes for screws&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;. Although there are some screws that don't &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; pilot holes they may still benefit from them in some circumstances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's vital to know that pilot hole size, as referenced briefly in previous Answers, is not fixed for a given screw diameter and type. While it's broadly true that pilot holes need to be smaller for woods of low density and larger for woods of high density other factors (including screw &lt;em&gt;length&lt;/em&gt; perhaps counter-intuitively) determine the ideal pilot hole size. In practice though, due to the limited availability of drill bits of fractional sizes in many workshops, the closest match to the shank diameter is what will be used in all cases!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Summary for end grain&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A few clear tips emerge from reading the literature:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill as close to the ideal pilot hole as you can.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a larger size of screw than you might otherwise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the longest screw that is practical.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that these can lead to screws being very difficult to drive fully home as resistance builds up and builds up the deeper a screw goes, especially in harder species. And sometimes this can exceed the turning ability of an under-powered battery drill/driver or a hand screwdriver. Lubricating the screws — with soap, wax or oil — is well worth doing to help with this but it may not be enough, so it might prove necessary to switch to a different driver, e.g. a corded drill/driver or a carpenter's brace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One additional tip:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drive screws at a slight angle if possible (to involve more long grain), and with a pair of screws oppose the angles (to give a dovetail hold).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Worth noting that withdrawal resistance isn't even the same for radial and longitudinal grain, although these are commonly lumped together as 'long grain' as I have here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Self-tapping screws in particular may present a different picture in end grain than in long grain as they sever the fibres rather than pushing them aside and largely leaving them intact. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; And sometimes for nails too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-11-17T08:58:23.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7989" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7991" CreationDate="2018-11-18T23:34:00.100" Score="4" ViewCount="2574" Body="&lt;p&gt;Often times I need to drill maybe a 1/4&quot; hole, all the way through the piece, and then a 3/8&quot; or 1/2&quot; hole half way through the piece in the same spot. It is often imperative that these holes are &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; concentric. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a smaller drill press, you cannot just keep the workpiece clamped in place because to remove the smaller bit and replace it with a larger bit (or vice-verse) will end up breaking the alignment and it's nearly impossible to get it back again (within a few thousandths of an inch) by eye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there special drill bits or guides for this purpose? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5795" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2018-11-20T14:13:51.570" LastActivityDate="2018-11-24T09:51:21.037" Title="How do you drill concentric holes of different diameters on a drill press?" Tags="|drilling|drill-bits|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7989" CreationDate="2018-11-19T00:44:48.400" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Forstner bits have a small point on the end which leaves a slight indentation in the wood in the center of the hole. Use this to align your drill bits after changing them. But, to do this, you'll have to drill them the opposite way you're thinking - drill the biggest (but shallowest) hole first, followed by the next smallest / deepest. This keeps that slight indentation from the point on the drill bit present in the wood, allowing you to align the next drill bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastActivityDate="2018-11-19T00:44:48.400" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7989" CreationDate="2018-11-19T04:02:50.703" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can drill the smaller through-hole first, then use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Counterbore#/media/File:CounterBores.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;counterbore tool&lt;/a&gt;. The end of the counterbore will use the through-hole as a guide and will cut a flat-bottomed hole of a larger size exactly centered on the smaller hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5796" LastActivityDate="2018-11-19T04:02:50.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7992" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-19T08:02:05.890" Score="2" ViewCount="203" Body="&lt;p&gt;*This question was split out from &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/q/7966/49&quot;&gt;What features should I look for when buying my first circular saw?&lt;/a&gt; to better adhere to the stack exchange format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drills can range in price from $20 to $400+. What features are important for a typical home user or novice, and what features differentiate the cheaper drills from more expensive ones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2018-11-19T08:11:29.623" Title="What features should I look for when buying my first drill?" Tags="|tool-selection|drill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7992" CreationDate="2018-11-19T08:02:05.890" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Corded drills are good for quick drilling jobs, but they are heavy and require a nearby electrical outlet or extension cord, making them less convenient. My old, cheap corded drill is extremely barebones and lacks a lot of essential features. For example, it does not have a clutch or keyless chuck, and the only speed control is in the trigger. Nicer drills will have a switch that toggles between a slower &quot;driving&quot; mode and a faster &quot;drilling&quot; mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cordless drills are much more convenient--but only if you buy one with good battery technology. Avoid NiCd/NiCad (Nickel Cadmium) batteries, as they charge slowly, commonly have an annoying &quot;memory&quot; problem if you don't maintain them properly, and will never be ready to use when you want to use them. Trust me, you won't want to have to charge your NiCd batteries for 4-8 hours every time you want to use your drill. Instead, buy a cordless drill with a NiMH or, better yet, Li-Ion (Lithium Ion) battery. Preferably, buy one with two batteries and a quick charger, so you can charge one battery while using the other, and you'll be much less likely to get stuck sitting around idle waiting for the battery to charge.&#xA;For a novice or home user who will only use the drill a couple times a year, I'd recommend a cheap Lithium Ion drill with 2 batteries for $50 or less. Again, DO NOT buy a drill with NiCd batteries. It will serve you well for several years if you store the batteries inside your house and avoid subjecting them to extreme temperatures such as a garage that gets below freezing in the winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you plan on building things or using your drill more frequently, your first set should be a 12v compact drill/impact driver combo kit from a reputable manufacturer. You can usually find these on sale for $100 or slightly more. The greatest advantage is that you won't have to constantly swap between your drill bit and your screwdriver bit. The bonus is that an impact driver is much less likely to strip your screws, even with a Phillips screwdriver bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other important features for a drill:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;keyless chuck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;self-locking keyless chuck (so the chuck doesn't try to spin while you're trying to tighten it)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;clutch (so it stops trying to drive the screw once it's torqued a certain amount)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;light (so you can see what you're drilling or driving)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;onboard bit storage (sometimes it can be a bit gimmicky&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;magnetic bit/screw holder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;speed control (a switch that converts between faster &quot;drilling&quot; mode and slower &quot;driving&quot; mode)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;forward/reverse (included on all drills I've ever seen; cordless drills also typically have an &quot;off&quot; position that locks the trigger during transport)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;multiple batteries&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;battery charge indicator (either on the drill or battery; sometimes branded as a &quot;fuel gauge&quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1/4&quot; hex chuck or adjustable chuck (impact drivers usually have 1/4&quot; hex chucks)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;swappable driver heads--offset, impact, right-angle, normal, or other&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;battery compatibility with many other tools&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;extended-life or slim battery options&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;carrying case or bag&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;belt clip&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;higher torque (impact drivers have much higher torque than drills)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drills, like many other tools, are commodity items these days. In short, you get what you pay for. The more premium brands typically offer better battery technology (faster charging, better able to hold a charge between uses, batteries that continue to hold a charge after many years of charging cycles) and more features, although some homeowner-targeted brands do include extra features.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On top of the features above, you can also purchase different types of drills such as hammer drills and rotary hammers and drill presses, which address more specialized needs. Because this question is more about recommendations for a novice, those other types of drills are outside the scope of my answer and would be better served by separate questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2018-11-19T08:11:29.623" LastActivityDate="2018-11-19T08:11:29.623" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3915" CreationDate="2018-11-19T09:54:35.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Makita 3709 has only one collet and the instructions booklet say that it's valid both for 6mm AND 1/4&quot; bits.&#xA;Clearly, if the collet fits 1/4&quot; it can also fit 6mm, probably by just a tiny extra tightening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5799" LastActivityDate="2018-11-19T09:54:35.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7995" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-19T16:01:05.673" Score="1" ViewCount="281" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used water-based 3X Varathane on a table top I am refinishing.  It is very difficult to spread because it is so thick.  It is supposed to be &quot;self-leveling&quot;.  I cannot brush it on evenly because it is so thick and it starts to dry (and gum up when I go back to even it out).  Some areas are much thicker than others.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have sanded it lightly but an hoping for some guidance before I try a second coat!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5805" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2018-11-19T23:50:14.507" LastActivityDate="2018-11-19T23:50:14.507" Title="Spreading water-based Varathane that is 3 times thicker" Tags="|finishing|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7989" CreationDate="2018-11-19T21:11:28.970" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Similar to the other answers, but for any drill bit type:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill a very small pilot hole deeper than the shallowest, big diameter hole. Use a standard twist bit. Limit depth if this is to be a stopped (not through) hole.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use your small pilot hole to center the new bit while you drill the largest diameter, shallowest hole.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use your small pilot hole to center the new bit while you drill the next smaller diameter, slightly deeper hole.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lather, rinse, repeat until you have the smallest, deepest hole.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use, say a 1/16&quot; bit for your pilot hole, your 1/2&quot;, 3/8&quot;, and 1/4&quot; bits of any sort should line themselves up quite nicely on that 1/16&quot; hole. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, as Graphus pointed out in his &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/7989/how-do-you-drill-concentric-holes-of-different-diameters-on-a-drill-press#comment17255_7989&quot;&gt;comments on the OP&lt;/a&gt; accuracy within a few thousandths is highly unlikely with home- or even commercial-grade woodworking drill presses. You'd likely need an expensive CNC drill press to achieve that accuracy and a much harder, or at least much more consistent material (plastic or metal) to achieve that kind of precision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2018-11-20T14:48:15.240" LastActivityDate="2018-11-20T14:48:15.240" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7989" CreationDate="2018-11-19T23:32:25.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you use brad point drill bits drill the larger one first then carefully center the smaller one over the point (left in the hole) of the larger one then drill through. OR  Drill a very small hole as a center point through the board use this as a center for the 1/4&quot; and the 3/8&quot; hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2018-11-19T23:32:25.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7999" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-20T17:10:22.270" Score="1" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to build a motorized bed. I am still in the researching phase so I went to a bedroom shop in my city. In the shop I saw this hinge, or at least I believe it´s called a hinge. I have been researching it for 2 days now and I can't seem to figure out the name or type of hinge they used for this particular joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only type of hinge I found similar was the Knife hinge, but that isn't quite what I am looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W8ig4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W8ig4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5813" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2018-11-23T08:21:19.690" Title="What's the name of this hinge?" Tags="|joinery|wood|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8000" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8039" CreationDate="2018-11-20T20:07:44.353" Score="1" ViewCount="495" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to design a kind of contemporary door that I've seen before where it opens by splitting down the middle, and if you push on only one half of the door, the other half still opens at the same speed. Is there a name for this kind of door?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5814" LastActivityDate="2018-11-30T19:50:56.143" Title="What is the name of doors that open everywhere by being pushed on in only one part?" Tags="|door|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8001" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8003" CreationDate="2018-11-21T01:29:17.720" Score="6" ViewCount="2335" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used some reclaimed wood from a ~12 year old fence to build the top of a farm table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The paint on the fence is white, faded, and powdery. If you pick up a board it dusts up your hands a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is the best + inexpensive way to remove the paint?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I want to stain it afterwards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I sanded it for about 10 minutes with a medium grit and saw no real effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm not trying to spend a lot of money, this is just a fun project.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fmt0o.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fmt0o.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4980" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2018-11-21T09:03:57.783" LastActivityDate="2018-11-21T09:09:11.487" Title="Remove white paint from old wood fence" Tags="|paint|refinishing|reclaimed-wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6106" CreationDate="2018-11-21T02:47:46.760" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is solely a sharpness issue, as Graphus suggested. While grain-direction and wood density are factors, sharpness is an order of magnitude more important. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To understand this for yourself, take a pine scrap and use a new x-acto blade (in its handle) to make a few cuts. Then try your own tools and note the difference. It is possible to do all of your whittling with inexpensive x-acto kits (of multiple shaped blades) and simply replace the blades. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a sharp blade, the long 'v' cuts will be clean (leaving the next challenges for you: maintaining control of depth of cut and control of the path you wish to cut.) A few other nice features of 'sharp': less concern for grain direction, and less force needed for a given action, so you can cut slower with more control, if you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of the challenge to learn to carve is learning to sharpen and learning to detect when sharpening is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible to buy tools already sharpened &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=31119&amp;amp;cat=,43701&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lee Valley's Sayers' Carving Tool Selection&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=31090&amp;amp;cat=1,130,43332,43334,31090&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lee Valley's Flexcut® Carving Knives&lt;/a&gt; if you can afford that path. While the honing on those tools will only last so long, your knowledge of 'sharp' vs. 'not sharp' should last quite a bit longer! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastActivityDate="2018-11-21T02:47:46.760" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8001" CreationDate="2018-11-21T09:09:11.487" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're starting from scratch without question the most inexpensive way to remove old paint (most finishes in fact) is using a scraper of some sort. Scrapers generally last you the rest of your life, so even if they cost a lot more than they do they'd still work out most cost-effective and outright cheapest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I don't think using a scraper is right for you here as scraping works best on hardwoods and not softwoods&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. Additionally with the wood being weathered it will be somewhat friable so the surface left by scraping could need significant work to flatten and smooth out which you don't seem to be set up for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ideally prep the wood first&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I'll mention this in case you want to use more of the wood for another project, and for future readers who want to prep similar material. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One really effective way to remove heavily weathered paint is by power washing outdoors, often nearly every trace of the paint will come off and somewhat surprisingly it can leave the wood looking virtually brand new in some cases (although it will have a texture). I would use a traditionally set up jack plane (a roughing plane AKA scrub plane can be used similarly) to skim off the surface which can be a quicker job than you might expect — working through the stack of boards for this table might take no more than 8-10 minutes of light effort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sanding&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I sanded it for about 10 minutes with a medium grit and saw no real effect&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a job where you need to break out the coarser stuff. Any time a significant amount of material needs to be removed by sanding you should start coarse and then work your way up through the grits to whatever your final grit is, usually 150-220. Even using a powered sander (the best choice here normally being a belt sander) you'd want to start with 80 grit and possibly coarser. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although the scratches the first grit leaves will seem terribly heavy and like they will take forever to eradicate it's actually less effort in the long run to do it this way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chemical stripper&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A good paint stripper should take this paint off in minutes, with almost no effort. The fastest and most effective strippers will wrinkle or bubble the paint nearly in front of your eyes and the paint can then be scraped off with a putty knife or similar, or scoured off using very coarse steel wool or a kitchen scourer. &lt;strong&gt;Safety note:&lt;/strong&gt; if using strippers that work this quickly do the job outdoors if at all possible! If working indoors be &lt;em&gt;certain&lt;/em&gt; you have good airflow — past you, then past the work and then out an open door or window. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Left-field option&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Abandon the original plan, don't strip what remains of the paint but seal it in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously the look is not for everyone but you could apply a varnish or waterbased finish to your table which will effective 'lock in' the weathered, powdery surface. To keep the paint as white as possible you'd want to use a waterbased finish but if you're OK with the slight amber colour it imparts (in this case giving more a cream/ivory) you can use oil-based polyurethane which is generally tougher than waterbased finishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also paint over the existing paint, for a uniform colour. The first coat or two of paint (or better, primer) should consolidate the weathered paint surface and then you'd continue to paint as normal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not a few pieces these days feature a mix of painted elements and stained/coloured wood so you could stain the rest of it, and the final result could be even better than your original plan since the top boards were unlikely to ever stain nicely&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Although it is perfectly possible to &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3800/using-scrapers-on-fuzzy-woods/3802#3802&quot;&gt;scrape softwoods in some cases&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Softwoods stain poorly at the best of times, being very prone to blotching, and once the wood is weathered it can magnify the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-11-21T09:09:11.487" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8004" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-22T00:07:35.167" Score="1" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'm never really had great cuts with this saw but never looked into why. Recently I tried to cut some 8/4 and it didn't want to move through the blade so I cleaned the blade, waxed the table and it still burns or binds. It appears the blade is wobbling so I recorded these videos in the hopes I can get some help fixing this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked up how to check this on youtube, hopefully I'm doing it right. Using the dial indicator I first checked with nothing on the arbor and it appears to be ok, about 0.001in during the full rotation. I put the blade back on and it jumps up to about 0.011in which seems pretty high. I don't think it's the blade as this is the second blade I tried but I'm not sure what else it could be. Is this runout bad? Is it something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FNHCN_cZk_Y&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FNHCN_cZk_Y&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d1nNi0MFuak&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d1nNi0MFuak&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a ridgid r4512 saw.&#xA;Blade in the saw was a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-10-in-x-50-Teeth-Combination-Saw-Blade-D1050X/202786854?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CG%7CBase%7CD25T%7C25-7_POWER%20TOOL%20ACCESSORIES%7CNA%7CLIA%7C71700000043746545%7C58700004596952413%7C92700038837660303&amp;amp;gclid=Cj0KCQiAxNnfBRDwARIsAJlH29DygvhhQYMNhF2JeHrZaqwazmj744HNugfRPTGJXDIctWBSeboEvLkaAs9XEALw_wcB&amp;amp;gclsrc=aw.ds&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;10 in. x 50-Teeth Combination Saw Blade&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5018" LastEditorUserId="5018" LastEditDate="2018-11-22T12:25:28.667" LastActivityDate="2018-11-23T03:54:40.420" Title="Table saw blade wobbles, don't think it's the arbor" Tags="|table-saw|saw-blade|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8005" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-22T08:17:03.023" Score="1" ViewCount="1273" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on a table that is made out of maple. I would like to apply a stain but maple is a timber that is prone to blotching so am considering using a sanding sealer before staining to reduce the potential for blotching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past I have used shellac as a prelude to wax finishes but I am worried about how it might react with a final finish of varnish or lacquer (i.e. not wax or oil). I understand how shellac works and where it comes from, and although I have heard of cellulose and acrylic sanding sealers I have never used them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Focussing on cellulose SS, I am guessing that it works like shellac but it is cellulose that is deposited in the wood instead of lac-bug resins. This sounds fine given what wood is made of (and my experience of hardening tissue paper with cellulose thinners as a young lad making model aeroplanes). Is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been led to believe that standard shellac is good under wax or oil based finishes but, if you want to use a varnish or lacquer then you are best using de-waxed shellac. But what about cellulose SS in particular? What is cellulose SS safe under and are there any pros or cons vs shellac?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5815" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2018-11-22T15:25:21.057" LastActivityDate="2018-11-22T16:06:49.977" Title="Choice of sanding sealer to avoid blotching (shellac vs cellulose)" Tags="|finish-selection|shellac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8005" CreationDate="2018-11-22T16:06:49.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the past I have used Shellac as a prelude to wax finishes but I am worried about how it might react with a final finish of varnish or lacquer (ie not wax or oil). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There should be no problem there if you do want to stick with shellac. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking shellac will work under just about anything, it's actually widely regarded for its nearly unlimited compatibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Focussing on cellulose SS, I am guessing that it works like shellac but it is cellulose that is deposited in the wood instead of Lac-bug resins. This sounds fine given what wood is made of (and my experience of hardening tissue paper with cellulose thinners as a young lad making model aeroplanes). Is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;'Cellulose' sanding sealer should be a dilute form of &lt;em&gt;nitrocellulose&lt;/em&gt; lacquer so actually only shares some underlying chemistry with wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of whether the chemistry were similar or not it's not something you need to concern yourself with. Many of the best products used in woodworking are completely unrelated, but yet they work brilliantly with wood — this includes PVA glues, polyurethanes and epoxies of different types, linseed oil and shellac.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've been led to believe that standard shellac is good under wax or oil based finishes but, if you want to use a varnish or lacquer then you are best using de-waxed shellac. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic idea here seems to make sense but it isn't as simple as some people make out, i.e. that the wax &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; cause a bonding issue. Prior to dewaxed shellac even being available other finishes were widely used under and on top of it, indicating both that it sticks to them and they stick to it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certain specifics are going to play some part here, e.g. the wood species, if it was sanded how finely it was sanded, how much shellac was actually built up before the other finish goes on and of course what the other finish is. But there's clear evidence that you don't have to religiously use dewaxed shellac to ensure compatibility with other finishes, in particular a light coat applied in the normal way you'd use sanding sealer can be virtually guaranteed not to cause any problems with anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;One further option&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Sizing the wood is an alternative that you might like to experiment with and consider using in future. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Size (dilute glue) can work really well to reduce or eliminate blotching and was &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; traditional way this was dealt with. Thinned animal glue (hide glue, Scotch glue) was what was used traditionally as you might expect but today some use diluted PVA glues for the same purpose and report good results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-11-22T16:06:49.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8004" CreationDate="2018-11-23T03:54:40.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible it could be the blade, try turning the blade around backwards and see if the &quot;high&quot; spots become the &quot;low&quot; spots. A little bit of movement on the arbor can make a lot of movement on the end of the blade though. The washer that goes on the outside of the blade could not be sitting flat and allowing the blade to wobble as well. I used this video to straighten up an old Craftsman table saw I bought a few years back.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PXFRsmB0_Ec&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PXFRsmB0_Ec&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5811" LastActivityDate="2018-11-23T03:54:40.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8008" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8009" CreationDate="2018-11-23T08:34:10.727" Score="2" ViewCount="206" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have always used generic knives for marking as per the two Stanleys (other makes are available!) below, my favourite being the grey one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kYzHe.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kYzHe.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cheap-n-cheerful Stanleys have always worked well, leaving a nice fine line and they double up as a handy tool for shaving off saw 'fuzzies' and sharpening pencils etc, plus the folding/retracting blades mean I can slip it in a pocket and so avoid loosing it under shavings.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when marking out a job yesterday I got to wondering - there are a lot of knives marketed specifically for marking like these two:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KBtBq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KBtBq.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Marking knives of the pattern of the lower pair seem common in many professional YouTube woodwork videos (though I note that Paul Sellers uses 'my' grey one above - which influenced my choice originally).  So my question is, are there advantages in a specialist marking knife over what I am using and if so, what are they? The lower one doesn't look any more useful than my Stanleys but perhaps the beveled one has a special advantage (though I'd expect the chunky bevel to effectively move your knife mark over (the bevel on the Stanleys is so thin it's never a risk).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5815" LastActivityDate="2018-11-24T04:59:49.780" Title="Choice of marking knives" Tags="|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8008" CreationDate="2018-11-23T10:13:20.183" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The usual reason given for the need for a dedicated marking knife is that it is bevelled on one side only, the other side flat, and this flat side allows precise vertical alignment of the knife against the rule or square. This yields a knifed line precisely where you want it and not offset slightly as can happen with a standard knife blade that is bevelled on both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this is true, when knifing with a normal knife the offset is &lt;em&gt;at most&lt;/em&gt; half the thickness of the blade.... I just measured the knife I most commonly mark with and that's &amp;lt;0.2mm (under 8/1000&quot;), a level of accuracy more than good enough for a lot of woodworkers*. I'd suggest that this is why in the past and still today you'll see Stanley knives and X-Acto knives quite commonly used for marking in professional shops, because in practice they &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; good enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So why is there a market for dedicated marking knives? There are multiple reasons but it's important to recognise one important one, that there's a certain fetishistic desire for beautiful tools amongst woodworkers today, amateurs and pros alike. There's no denying how lovely some marking knives are and some people just want one because of this, not because it will make their marking significantly more accurate..... even if they justify the purchase to themselves (or their partner!) in this way ^_^&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*In addition, you can simply tilt a double-bevel knife outwards slightly and mostly or completely eliminate this tiny offset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-11-23T10:13:20.183" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8010" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8014" CreationDate="2018-11-23T21:39:51.450" Score="4" ViewCount="10158" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DskS4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DskS4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm building a pair of 3-drawer nightstands and using a slab of cypress for the drawer faces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final pour of epoxy started out fine, just &amp;quot;proud&amp;quot; of the surface in the major voids, but overnight the epoxy ran out of the voids and onto the surface of the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Causes for this I think are fairly obvious in hindsight:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The form and slab are not completely level.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ecopoxy 2:1 liquid plastic dries slowly and is very runny.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to pour one more batch of epoxy to fill these voids &amp;quot;proud&amp;quot; again, but this time I think a little silicone/hot glue boundary might keep the epoxy from running over again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So the question is, should I use silicone or hot glue to prevent epoxy from running&lt;/strong&gt;? I don't have a hot glue gun or a caulking gun, nor have I ever used either in a wood project. Ultimately, my requirements are simple:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does not bind to the epoxy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can be removed easily&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Won't stain wood (I will be planing afterward, so this doesn't matter as much).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any recommendations for specific silicone/hot glue products to get this job done are appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2019-03-11T04:15:11.847" Title="How to prevent epoxy from running out of wood voids" Tags="|furniture|wood-repair|epoxy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8011" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-24T03:24:06.677" Score="1" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm helping a neighbor clean up their parents' house for sale. The kitchen custom cabinets with raised panel doors have a good bit of build-up from 20+ years of cooking. They are very good medium dark oak stained. Other than the build-up, they are in very good condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are trying to do this quickly and at a low cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2018-11-25T07:24:32.183" LastActivityDate="2018-11-27T15:25:32.333" Title="Cleaning grime from kitchen cabinets" Tags="|clean-up|cabinet-scraper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8008" CreationDate="2018-11-24T04:59:49.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aside from what has been mentioned already, razor knives or something like an exacto knife, can flex and if I am not paying close attention will grab a grain and run down it. I try to make sure my square is on the side I am keeping, so it isn't a big deal, but it can and does happen more than I care to admit. Seems to be worse on softer woods where the blade sinks further than I intend. On the plus side, I have a half dozen razor knives laying around, my &quot;marking knife&quot; is around here somewhere....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5811" LastActivityDate="2018-11-24T04:59:49.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8000" CreationDate="2018-11-24T05:06:02.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try this one, it is a motorized cable door, but could easily be adapted to use without the motor.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q8If4YSlhfY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q8If4YSlhfY&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that is not it, here is a pretty extensive list of different door mechanisms, they are from a youtuber whom does a lot of CAD mechanisms, and has a fondness for doors. If what you are looking for is not on here, you can walk away with some ideas at the least.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/user/thang010146/search?query=door&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/user/thang010146/search?query=door&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5811" LastEditorUserId="5811" LastEditDate="2018-11-24T16:17:55.280" LastActivityDate="2018-11-24T16:17:55.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8010" CreationDate="2018-11-24T09:03:05.570" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously levelling the slab to begin with would help here, checking in both directions and along both diagonals with a level&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;but this time I think a little silicone/hot glue boundary might keep the epoxy from running over again&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want to be very careful using anything containing silicone around woodworking. Silicone contamination is notoriously difficult to remove (and to contain — it can spread from piece to piece with handling) and as a result it's not uncommon for people to avoid using all products that contain it anywhere in the shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hot glue would certainly work, but it's going to require quite a large quantity so not sure if that's a cost-effective solution, particularly if buying the gun especially for this. And there are cheaper options anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ultimately, my requirements are simple:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Does not bind to the epoxy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Can be removed easily&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Won't stain wood (I will be planing afterward, so this doesn't matter as much).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tape. Tape is your friend when working to epoxy in multiple ways, including protecting adjacent surfaces and making up dams for the back of holes that go right through the wood and for when a void runs out the side or end of a board&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Epoxy does bond slightly to the face or edge of some tapes, but IME it's never so bad that it's a big deal and the normal cleanup that you're going to do anyway to make the epoxy flush with the wood will take care of any issues. Epoxy can also creep under the edge of some tapes if not burnished down well but it's usually minor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basic masking tape works all right with epoxy, although I believe that painter's tape works slightly better. But duct tape works best of all (including cheap non-brand stuff) because epoxy won't bond to soft plastics, so this would be my recommendation. And duct tape has another advantage for you here in that it's the thickest of these three options. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because tape is conformable to a degree you could couple it with thin wood strips (coffee stirrers would be great for this) to build up a dam of significant height really quickly rather than having to use multiple layers of tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other options&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Worth filing away in the mental bank for future projects, dams around epoxy pours can also be made using oil-based modelling clay (Plasticine equivalent), Play-Doh and Blu-Tack and the majority of the material can be recycled for future use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that all of these can leave a slight residue on wood but again this would usually be taken care of by the standard post-pour cleanup to flush the epoxy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Which these days might be your smartphone (yes, there is an app for that)! If using a phone it would be best to extend its baseline by using it on a longer piece of scrap wood or ply that you know is dead square and flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Somewhat paradoxically epoxy won't bond to the sticky side of tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2018-12-07T08:34:53.763" LastActivityDate="2018-12-07T08:34:53.763" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7989" CreationDate="2018-11-24T09:51:21.037" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you able to drill the bigger hole first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That way there will still be some wood there to hold the smaller drill bit, and the pointy pilot tip in the middle will act as a center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the workpiece is too thin, try clamping a scrap piece below the planned hole to give the pilot tip somewhere to indicate onto.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1573" LastActivityDate="2018-11-24T09:51:21.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8016" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-24T12:38:27.803" Score="1" ViewCount="202" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am contemplating a design for a tabletop which would be made up of a series of oak strips, bolted from end to end using long threaded rod. It might be approx 10' (3 m) long. Using several rods, perhaps about 1' (30 cm) apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wood strips would run perpendicular to the long direction of the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concern is that with seasonal expansion &amp;amp; contraction, would this be stable? It would be OK if the top changed size somewhat (like many) but are the steel rods likely to cause cupping or splitting etc.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="763" LastActivityDate="2018-11-24T12:38:27.803" Title="Wood expansion vs. steel" Tags="|tabletop|wood-movement|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8017" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8018" CreationDate="2018-11-25T03:30:49.383" Score="3" ViewCount="1947" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was watching a woodworking YouTube video which showed a metal insert being permanently hammered into a pre-drilled hole at the bottom of a table leg.   A large machine screw with a padded head was then threaded through an opening in the insert and into the pre-drilled hole.  The result provided an adjustable foot for the leg which could extend the length of the total leg by up to about an inch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a bad drawing of what the insert looked like in the video...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yhqnq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yhqnq.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My question is what are these inserts called?  I want to order some but don't know what to look for.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="147" LastActivityDate="2018-11-25T04:14:22.873" Title="What are the metal inserts which accept adjustable screws called?" Tags="|hardware-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8017" CreationDate="2018-11-25T04:14:22.873" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ones in your sketch are &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01MSVU3WF&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;T-nuts&lt;/a&gt;, and are typically hammered into the wood. The prongs bite into the wood, keeping it from moving, and the inside of the barrel is threaded to accept a bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another commonly-used piece of hardware that performs a similar function is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B07JQ8BSQK&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;threaded insert&lt;/a&gt;. These have threads on the outside of the barrel as well, and are screwed into a hole in the wood. The threads on the outside bite into the wood, keeping it from moving, although some people will also put a small amount of epoxy in there, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I can see, there's not a whole lot different about them other than the size. T-nuts require a bit more wood around the hole to provide a place for the prongs to bite into. Thus, threaded inserts can be used on smaller pieces of wood than T-nuts (e.g. end or edge grain of 3/4&quot; or 4/4 material). Threaded inserts seem to be more common in knockdown furniture whereas T-nuts seem to be more common in &quot;mechanical&quot; builds (knobs, jigs, etc), although that's just based on me watching woodworking videos on youtube and nothing concrete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Links are for example only, and are not an endorsement or recommendation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastActivityDate="2018-11-25T04:14:22.873" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8000" CreationDate="2018-11-25T06:31:07.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you referring to Accordion doors like the ones &lt;a href=&quot;http://house-ideas.org/10-accordian-doors-ease-and-beauty.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8n74i.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8n74i.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5821" LastActivityDate="2018-11-25T06:31:07.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8020" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8034" CreationDate="2018-11-25T13:36:22.190" Score="1" ViewCount="693" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard or read that wood exhibits a hysteresis effect when gaining or losing moisture. I'm familiar with the term &quot;hysteresis&quot; in a general way (such as in a thermostat) but its not clear what that means in this context.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume this means that the pattern of moisture gain or loss is not always consistent and depends on the wood's starting point moisture level? But if someone has a diagram or could otherwise explain this in more detail that would be very helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="763" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2018-11-27T16:23:19.673" LastActivityDate="2018-11-27T16:25:37.923" Title="Hysteresis in wood moisture content?" Tags="|wood-drying|moisture|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8021" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-25T14:32:38.850" Score="1" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to understand why wood movement in a floor necessitates large expansion gaps around the outside of the room. I'm not asking why wood as a material undergoes changes due to moisture - I'm interested in how &lt;em&gt;the floor system as a whole&lt;/em&gt; actually behaves once installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take for example common wood-strip flooring such as 3/4 oak. Here's a diagram showing a typical recommended installation along a wall parallel to the floorboards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sgyHt.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sgyHt.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How is it possible that the entire floor could ever move by approx 3/4&quot; at the walls without being totally destroyed&lt;/strong&gt;? Nails would be torn out, boards split, etc. if the floor moved that much, no? So is the gap really useful?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(What I would have thought was: given the way boards like this are nailed, the tongues would remain in place relative to the floor, the grooves would slide around, and the floor &lt;em&gt;as a whole&lt;/em&gt; would not move at all. Gaps would just open and close between individual strips.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="763" LastActivityDate="2018-11-26T00:07:56.330" Title="Wood floor movement mechanism" Tags="|wood-movement|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8021" CreationDate="2018-11-26T00:07:56.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're correct that the 3/4&quot; gap isn't going to be entirely closed and then open again seasonally. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of that big a gap is convenience... you can have the baseboard installed and still pull a floorboard out. It's easier to lay a floor with loose gaps. (And given the wows and flutters in long walls, the gap will be wide in places and narrower in others and you can still have a straight run.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2018-11-26T00:07:56.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8023" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8071" CreationDate="2018-11-26T03:04:39.223" Score="1" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a storage room, where a Water Heater, Forced Air compartments, and Electric box are installed as shown in Fig. 1. I am planning to install a wooden wall around all of these, which looks solid on the left hand-side that faces the main entrance to the room and comprises two adjacent Bifold doors (Fig. 2) in front of Water Heater and Forced Air compartments. This setup will allow us access the system in case of failure but covers them from outside. In order to accomplish this, I am thinking to install a L-shape lumber frame, for which one leg is fixed to the block-wall on the right hand-side of Fig. 1, and the other leg is fixed to the wall right behind of Water Heater. At the elbow, I am thinking to install a vertical lumber that is fixed to the floor and perhaps extended right to the top and fixed to the ceiling frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concern is that I might be over-engineering this a bit and there might be a simpler solution other than a L-shape frame. My main goal is to have the entire construct very stable that upon opening and closing the Bifold door, the structure does not shake or budge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am considering Bifold doors because of ease of installation, as well as allowing air to flow through the blinds, letting the heating system cool off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts, concerns, recommendations, and ideas are very welcome!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K5FTB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K5FTB.png&quot; alt=&quot;Fig. 1: Storage Room&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x4G5t.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x4G5t.png&quot; alt=&quot;Example Bifold Door&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5821" LastActivityDate="2018-12-14T20:29:16.330" Title="Install Door Frame and Bifold Doors" Tags="|door|timberframe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8024" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8031" CreationDate="2018-11-26T03:31:38.670" Score="3" ViewCount="1118" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to build a 72x30x2&quot; table top and only own a table saw. After reading some guides, it looks like most people will cross cut the edges to the final dimensions with a track or circular saw. Is this entirely necessary or could the same be accomplished on the table saw with the same accuracy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5824" LastActivityDate="2018-11-27T21:43:46.417" Title="Crosscutting a tabletop after glue up on a table saw" Tags="|table-saw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8027" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8037" CreationDate="2018-11-26T13:45:40.527" Score="1" ViewCount="5437" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to install two doors on this cabinet using European (concealed) hinges. They will be installed on a Frameless structure made of 18mm panels on the outside and a 27mm panel on the inside that is shared by one door and on the other side by drawers (see diagrams).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that if two doors share the same panel, they use Half Overlay hinges (as per Rocker website). However, in this case, the door will not be sharing the interior panel. On the other side, there are shelves (in this case) and drawers in another case. Furthermore, the interior panel is thicker (27mm vs 18mm) than the exterior panel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I still use half overlay hinges? Or use Full overlay as the door on the outside?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope the diagrams explain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yKWWA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yKWWA.png&quot; alt=&quot;Diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eWMT2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eWMT2.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cabinet&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1540/what-is-the-difference-between-full-overlay-and-half-overlay-hinges&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; question for a description of the difference between full and half overlay hinges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5827" LastEditorUserId="1646" LastEditDate="2018-11-30T17:55:14.787" LastActivityDate="2018-11-30T17:55:14.787" Title="Should I use Full Overlay or Half Overlay hinges?" Tags="|hinges|door|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8028" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-26T14:57:40.703" Score="1" ViewCount="1070" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not a woodworker of any kind but I am building a desk from a laminate kitchen worktop measuring 3000x600x38mm (L x W x T) but I only want the legs on the side. I don't want to have to put an additional two legs in the centre. How could I reinforce the chipboard without adding more legs? Could I just put a 30x30x3000mm (W x H x L) piece of angle iron on the back edge? I want to eliminate the chance of the centre dropping over time or even immediately. It's not going to be holding a lot of weight near the centre: just a monitor, keyboard and mouse in the centre.  However on either side there are going to be 3d printers but as they are near the legs there shouldn't be an issue with bowing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.diy.com/departments/38mm-oak-woodmix-wood-effect-round-edge-laminate-worktop-l-3m-d-600mm/81442_BQ.prd&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; is the sort of piece I am thinking of buying, and it looks like this in section: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZKvTH.png&quot; alt=&quot;Chipboard section&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5828" LastEditorUserId="1646" LastEditDate="2018-12-01T10:22:05.820" LastActivityDate="2018-12-13T19:41:23.257" Title="Reinforcing chipboard" Tags="|wood|tabletop|strength|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8028" CreationDate="2018-11-26T16:51:51.320" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like you are planning to use a (partially?) veneered low-density particleboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3m of length of almost any material is going to need support, and that is just as true for this stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even a wood plank top would need an &quot;apron&quot; or support system of some kind at this size. And the longer the span, the beefier the support has to be. Just look at almost any larger 4-legged table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the material you link to looks like it is at least partially wrapped veneered material (i.e., the usual sort of LD veneered particle board used for countertops) but even if it was fully wrapped (which is a fair bit stronger than the stuff with only a veneer on the top and sides) there is still only so much the material will span.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ikea, et al, get away with this by&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keeping overall lengths down, and using actual wood for spanning/support&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using steel aprons and supports for larger dimensions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Letting the smaller, cheaper items just fall apart after a few years, or a few moves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what sounds like a digital workstation of some sort (which is going to take a lot more abuse than you suggest!) I'd suggest a metal or wood apron and maybe even a dimension piece of some sort along the bottom centre that ties to the side apron pieces. You could use angle-iron, but since we don't know the size of what you want to use you might have to do a little homework.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is that you want some material that is &lt;strong&gt;resistant to deflection&lt;/strong&gt;, and that ends up being either wood support &quot;beams&quot; (i.e., with the force being applied along the thinner side), or some sort of metal beam (a folded box of metal, or an L- or I- beam). The latter is how Ikea designs their largest SOHO task desks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I actually would not &lt;em&gt;generally&lt;/em&gt; recommend low-density particleboard for a top. That being said, the stuff you want to use (if it is fully wrapped by a veneer), will be a little better at spanning, but it will still need support. Ikea, et a, use these sorts of veneers, too, and they are surprisingly light and strong (though, often a honey-comb material inside, not LD board). But they could not span 3m unsupported with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you do use this stuff, think about how countertops are installed, with plenty of supports taking the forces to the floor. You either have to take those forces directly to the floor, or distribute them along spans that direct the forces to the legs and then to the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this is going to be a &lt;em&gt;heavy&lt;/em&gt; desk, so make sure you design it to be taken apart!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on a late comment by the OP, aluminium scaffolding would be very appropriate as a task table base (it &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be hard to level; make sure you get adjustable feet) though I'd make sure I used more support for any composite material unless it was very strong and stiff. Plywood/veneer (e.g., the nice Baltic birch plywood the big box stores use for furniture) would be perfect. In a pinch, thick enough chipboard or OSB would probably be fine for that span as well. But if you want a smooth top, chipboard is not going to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, scaffolding is &lt;em&gt;intended&lt;/em&gt; to be used with the appropriately thick boards; so that material would work. You wouldn't even have to join the boards to make a complete panel, but this depends on how flat and continuous the top has to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per the comments, counter top LD particle board can't even support its own weight. So whatever you use would have to have support every 4ft or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To recap:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Figure out what sort of material qualities you need. Does it need to be nice and flat? Does it need to take screw without tearing out? How are the sides going to be finished. Unfinished edges get tiresome real quick, BTW.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consider how the dynamic forces at the top need to be addressed. The taller the table, the more moving mass at the top will need to be dampened. Two 3D printers going might actually set up some oscillations that will make your prints come out wonky. Make sure this thing is as stiff as you can reasonably make it. I don't know how stiff scaffolding stays, since I've always used it after years in service where it is strong but moves quite a bit. YMMV. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select a material that give you the qualities you need at the dimensions you need.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Design a support that will give the material you choose the stiffness it needs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reference desk I have in my  mind is a similarly sized desk from Ikea I use as my workstation. It uses a powder coated boxed steel apron with integrated adjustable steel legs and Baltic birch veneer on top. It has been in service for almost two decades and still very stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2018-12-13T19:41:23.257" LastActivityDate="2018-12-13T19:41:23.257" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8024" CreationDate="2018-11-26T17:47:33.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Table saws are often used to cut full sheets of plywood, so your table top can certainly be cut with great accuracy provided you have adequate support for the panel at infeed, outfeed, and side.  The outfeed and side are usually supported with mobile tables and rollers and I have seen fold up tables hinge attached to the table saw in lieu of tables on the internet.  I provide infeed support using rails similar to the ones shown in the picture (&lt;a href=&quot;https://jayscustomcreations.com/2014/06/table-saw-infeed-support-arms/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://jayscustomcreations.com/2014/06/table-saw-infeed-support-arms/&lt;/a&gt;).  It is very important that the panel have full support for the full duration of the cut so that you need only be concerned with pushing the panel across the blade snug with the fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JjqEO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JjqEO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tablesaw infeed rails&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2018-11-27T21:43:46.417" LastActivityDate="2018-11-27T21:43:46.417" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8024" CreationDate="2018-11-26T20:06:15.413" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you're going to get the result you want if you make these cuts with a table saw. Cutting large pieces on a table saw comes with a lot of challenges in terms of maintaining the alignment of the work piece with the blade to get a clean, consistent cut. And cutting large pieces always brings the risk of kickback from your saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sometimes sort woodworking cuts into two categories:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cuts where you bring the work piece to the tool (e.g., a cut made with a table saw, a hole made with a drill press, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cuts where you bring the tool to the work piece (e.g., a cut made with a circular saw, a hole made with a cordless drill, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally (in my view), the larger the piece, the more it makes sense to bring the tool to the work piece, and the smaller the piece, the more it makes sense to bring the piece to the tool. It basically comes down to which of these is easier (and often safer) to manipulate through the operation. You're looking at making a series of long cuts on a very large work piece. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although, as Ashlar pointed out, it is possible cut full sheets of plywood on a table saw, the setup needed to do this is much larger than a typical contractor's saw. My table saw can make these cuts, and I &lt;em&gt;still&lt;/em&gt; avoid it whenever possible. Plus, a 2&quot; thick glued-up top will weigh an awful lot more than most plywood, which will only add to the handling challenges. Further, the edges of plywood aren't typically a finish surface, so any tearout, burning, or other imperfections generally get hidden by other parts of the finished piece. For your table top, either the cuts will be show surfaces, in which case you want really clean cuts, or they'll be glue surfaces for breadboard ends, in which case... you'll want really clean cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you don't own a track saw or circular saw, maybe see if there's a way for you to borrow or rent one. If it's in your budget, a decent circular saw can be had for not a huge amount of money, and you can fashion up a guide to help you align the cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5190" LastActivityDate="2018-11-26T20:06:15.413" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8011" CreationDate="2018-11-27T15:03:41.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I've done this a few times when moving into cheap apartments back when folks smoked in their homes and exhaust fans were the work of the devil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pithy answer: mild degreaser, plastic scraper, lots and &lt;em&gt;lots&lt;/em&gt; of elbow grease. The idea is you want the gunk to soften up and then help it peel off. Then deal with the stubborn parts that will just take more work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the finish some might be pulled off. If the finish is cloudy or crazed in any way, it'll come off pretty much with any aggressive activity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per the comment, maybe try a mild degreaser in a hidden area to see how effective it is. If you need to step up to a strong alkali degreaser to really render that gunk, you can try the same area and make sure the finish can take it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way you do it in steps, from the minimum to &quot;oh geez, gotta refinish it anyway&quot;. Which is always a possibility when refurbishing old stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2018-11-27T15:25:32.333" LastActivityDate="2018-11-27T15:25:32.333" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8020" CreationDate="2018-11-27T15:14:59.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The word refers to how the material changes over time not just based on the starting point, but the entire history up to now. That is, a particularly dry or humid season will affect the moisture content of wood &lt;em&gt;now&lt;/em&gt;, and how the material changes over time will be affected not only by current conditions, but from these historical changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This results in hard to predict non-linear changes that can sometimes settle into long oscillations. Given the right material and the right conditions it can even approach chaotic (in the mathematical sense.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice this means chasing a specific fixed moisture content is hard, especially early on while things are settling. At any given time the wood could be in an overshoot or undershoot condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, these oscillations slow as external conditions stabilize, which is why eventually we can be relatively sure lumber is ready to work after X months in a Y% moisture location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you live in a place like I do, where the relative humidity changes from &amp;lt;20% to &gt;90% over the course of a year, that hysteresis will still be present. Tradesfolk know this, and the good ones adjust their framing and finish to allow for how they think things will change in 6 months or a year. This is more of a dark art than a science, though, and part of that is because systems in hysteresis are hard to predict.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2018-11-27T15:32:19.817" LastActivityDate="2018-11-27T15:32:19.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8020" CreationDate="2018-11-27T16:25:37.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I assume this means that the pattern of moisture gain or loss is not always consistent and depends on the wood's starting point moisture level? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In essence, yes. Briefly, it depends on the whether the wood is taking up or losing moisture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is contrary to how most people perceive MC changes in wood actually work but there's good reason for this as you'll read below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;But if someone has a diagram or could otherwise explain this in more detail that would be very helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lWyWA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lWyWA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Adsorption, desorption table&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;strong&gt;Some Aspects of Wood Moisture Relations&lt;/strong&gt;, Arno P. Schniewind. 1956 (!)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the clearest diagram of it I could find; there are much more complex numerical tables out there with the same basic info but I think this makes what's called the &lt;em&gt;hysteresis loop&lt;/em&gt; easiest to grasp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Take-home message&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The best summary of this I've read comes from opening page of the same document as the above table:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...it is clear that two of the factors which will influence E.M.C. are temperature and relative humidity. In practical application, these are usually assumed to be the only factors. Although this assumption is justified, there are nevertheless several other factors which can also influence equilibrium moisture content. One of these is that we are dealing with wood, a biological material, which has a great deal of inherent variation. We can never expect one individual piece of wood to behave exactly like any other piece. Another factor is the species of wood which we are dealing with. Although the influence of species is not very pronounced and may be overshadowed by the variation within one species, these differences nevertheless exist. And finally, a factor which cannot be entirely discounted is sorption hysteresis. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now despite the above it's clear that a simple equilibrium table gives a good enough picture of the MC you can expect at any given temp and humidity, for all species. Additionally, most designs in wood allow for any reasonable (and sometimes exceptional) changes in the MC of the wood, so to a certain degree it then doesn't matter what the MC ends up being.... and regardless of whether it's higher or lower than expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, much as I hate to say it you can pretty much ignore this. As most woodworkers (of all levels) are unaware this even exists, therefore don't do anything to attempt to compensate for it and yet problems specifically related to hysteresis don't crop up in real-world applications, it's a fairly safe bet that you too don't need to worry about it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To read more on this and related issues see chapter 4 of &lt;strong&gt;Wood as an Engineering Material&lt;/strong&gt;, a Forest Products Laboratory publication referenced many times in previous Answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-11-27T16:25:37.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3463" CreationDate="2018-11-27T22:48:16.100" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hand drills most definitely have a place.  They are &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cheaper &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;quieter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;more controllable &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;handier &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;safer &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and don't require electricity ( Handy if you have a large property or work out on site)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They provide more torque for larger bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need several drills:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;an eggbeater (for under 1/4&quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a breast drill (1/4&quot;-3/4)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a brace (for 3/4&quot; up - ratcheting strongly preferred) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a T handle for really big bits&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Harbor Freight has a set of six augers for US$17 with 1/4&quot; hex shafts.  Combine these with a sliding T handle breaker bar and a 1/4 socket, and you have a T handle for any auger.  Don't forget a square birdcage awl to start screws and a gimlet or two. The exercise will do you good.  This is wood &lt;em&gt;working&lt;/em&gt;, not wood &lt;em&gt;slacking&lt;/em&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5834" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2018-11-28T19:17:25.240" LastActivityDate="2018-11-28T19:17:25.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8027" CreationDate="2018-11-28T21:51:31.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the drawer overlay on the 27mm panel?  If it is more than 9mm you will have to use half-overlay hinges (as you won't have the 18mm needed for a full overlay.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2018-11-28T21:51:31.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3463" CreationDate="2018-11-30T16:23:11.490" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One advantage that has been touched on is that the low cost of manual drills means you can have lots of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For fine work (as opposed to construction) I find myself usually using a clearance drill bit, a pilot drill bit, a countersink, and a driver. Using one electric drill and switching the bits out got old really fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I have one eggbeater with a countersink permanently installed, another eggbeater for pilot holes, a short-throw brace for driving screws and my electric drill for the clearance holes. Doing that with electric drills would be expensive and would mean a lot of battery management. Total cost for all my manual drills was about £5 at a car boot sale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another issue with electric drills is that for fine work you generally want your holes to be very straight. Some people, including me, find it very hard to make a perpendicular hole with an electric drill. A drill press is ideal of course but is not always practical. On the other hand, eggbeater drills and braces form a natural straight line from the tip to the base of the handle that makes it easy to judge perpendicularity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3343" LastActivityDate="2018-11-30T16:23:11.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8000" CreationDate="2018-11-30T19:50:56.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe you are looking for a set of connected Pivot Doors like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your hinge mechanisms need to be connected so as one moves, the other matches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BUfwo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BUfwo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pivot Doors&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5407" LastActivityDate="2018-11-30T19:50:56.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8041" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8042" CreationDate="2018-12-03T13:28:24.430" Score="2" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to fix self-made wooden pieces on top of the following reusable corks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kxwYVm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kxwYVm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their description can be found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.geniess-bar.de/5x-holzgriff-korken-echtholz-fuer-alle-gaengigen-flaschen-sehr-robust-19-mm/a-959/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; (where I bought them and where the picture comes from).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pieces to fix can be of any shape: spheres, cubes, cones, cylindres, polyhedrons, etc... are painted and may come from different types of wood. They are decorative, and are not bigger than twice the size of the cork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I simply use a wood glue?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;With this method, it seems a bit difficult to solidly fix a sphere without putting a lot of glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there alternative ways?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Ideally, the method should be aesthetic and solid enough to resists a bottle opening. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5848" LastActivityDate="2018-12-03T14:40:40.777" Title="How to fix wood pieces on corks" Tags="|glue|decoration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8041" CreationDate="2018-12-03T14:40:40.777" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest drilling a hole into the wooden part of the bottle top and a corresponding hole on the bottom of your decoration. That way, you'll be able to dowel the two pieces together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can leave the appearance of the both parts unaffected, and the dowel and the inside of the hole will be good surfaces for the glue to bond to. Also, you are not relying on the surface area in the same way; you can easily glue a spherical object to the flat surface in this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2463" LastActivityDate="2018-12-03T14:40:40.777" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8043" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-04T05:39:47.293" Score="0" ViewCount="960" Body="&lt;p&gt;PS: If needs to be in the DIY SE rather than Woodwork SE please moderators figure where it will get better responses and fit. Thanks.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PPS: Found this similar - &lt;a href=&quot;https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/80922/how-best-to-remove-fumes-after-applying-polyurethane-in-a-hardwood-refinishing-p&quot;&gt;https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/80922/how-best-to-remove-fumes-after-applying-polyurethane-in-a-hardwood-refinishing-p&lt;/a&gt;  but was hoping for better guidance if there exists on WW SE. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For how much time are fumes from freshly polished wood furniture toxic and must be aired out &amp;amp; presence avoided? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Been reading about short term &amp;amp; long term effects of toxic chemicals in wood polish process  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Different effects of these chemicals based on eye, skin contact or fumes inhalation  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the time duration short term after Wood Polishing that the fumes or skin contact must be avoided? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1064" LastEditorUserId="1064" LastEditDate="2018-12-04T10:23:38.337" LastActivityDate="2018-12-04T10:23:38.337" Title="For how much time are fumes from freshly polished wood furniture toxic and must be aired out &amp; presence avoided?" Tags="|finishing|wood|finish-selection|refinishing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8046" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8050" CreationDate="2018-12-05T23:24:28.460" Score="2" ViewCount="234" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make walnut inlays in a maple board as shown below. How might I make the necessary cuts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. this picture is from -- &lt;a href=&quot;https://herringboneboards.com/boards/maple-herringbone-board-with-walnut-inlays/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://herringboneboards.com/boards/maple-herringbone-board-with-walnut-inlays/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PigUs.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PigUs.png&quot; alt=&quot;**Herringbone Pattern Cutting Board**&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5857" LastEditorUserId="5857" LastEditDate="2018-12-20T18:59:24.087" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T18:59:24.087" Title="How do you make 45 degree cuts in herrigbone cutting boards?" Tags="|cutting-board|inlay|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8046" CreationDate="2018-12-06T00:11:15.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The joint you're referring to is normally known as a &quot;dovetail key&quot; or &quot;butterfly joint&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The usage you see here is not typical.  Normally this would be used to keep a wider board/slab from &quot;checking&quot;, or splitting along the grain from the end of the board.  As such, the key would be oriented perpendicular to the grain of the larger board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many ways to make the key, but the easiest is probably just to lay it out with a bevel gauge and cut the waste out with a hand saw.  You'll want to leave it as a part of a larger board to allow easier handling and crosscut it free as the last step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To inlay the key I would just place it where I want it, trace around it with a pencil (or, better yet, a marking knife) and then chisel out the waste.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would start chiseling carefully around the edges, alternating paring down (with hand pressure at first) and then pushing in almost horizontally (bevel up) to your pare line to pop out some waste.  This is similar to how you'd start a &quot;first class cut&quot; with a hand saw.  Repeat this deeper and deeper until your edges are well established and then hog out the center waste with your chisel (bevel down) and a mallet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repeat establishing edges and hogging out waste until you're at your desired depth.  (Make sure the depth of the mortise is less than the thickness of the key!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you can hog out most of the waste with a router and a plunge bit and then clean up the edges with a chisel.  Just be very careful not to let the router get away from you.  Practice on some scrap first to get a feel for how the router handles freehand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may help inserting the key if you put a slight bevel on the bottom edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you glue it in the key should be slightly proud of the surface.  Flush it up with a hand plane (or a scraper/chisel/router/belt sander/whatever you prefer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2018-12-06T00:11:15.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8048" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8057" CreationDate="2018-12-06T05:01:09.047" Score="5" ViewCount="305" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found various guides and plans for building a box or chest with a curved (coopered) lid that involve gluing the sides of the lid to the slats forming the top, which are themselves glued together. Here are some examples: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/Cooperingaboxlid.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;one&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://vaughtwoodworks.wordpress.com/2013/04/27/medal-chest-the-lid-or-no-tablesaw-no-problem/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;two&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this method allow for enough seasonal movement to prevent the lid from coming apart, deforming, or otherwise getting messed up? If not, is there a better way to build this type of lid that does?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine that one possibility is to keep the slats separate and leave gaps between them, but I prefer to avoid this since I want a smooth continuous surface on the lid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3060" LastActivityDate="2018-12-08T04:02:59.433" Title="How to account for wood movement in a curved chest lid" Tags="|wood-movement|boxes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8046" CreationDate="2018-12-06T08:52:47.863" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How might I make the necessary cuts? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think there are cuts where you think there are. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The walnut 'inlays' here are not all inlays I'd bet, I can't be sure but I'd bet the boards are built up much as seen, the edges sawn square afterwards and then finally the bowties (AKA &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/905/what-is-the-difference-between-a-dutchman-patch-and-a-butterfly-patch/911#911&quot;&gt;butterfly keys or Dutchmen&lt;/a&gt;) laid in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look carefully at the picture and the orientation of the maple blocks used to make up the herringbone main field, the walnut pieces could simply be glued in place along the sawtooth edges at the time of construction (with more maple blocks glued outside of them and so on).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main challenge building up a board in this way would be in clamping it firmly without everything moving around due to the lubrication provided by the glue. Other than using &lt;em&gt;many&lt;/em&gt; clamps I think the ideal method might be to build a simple clamping frame on a piece of MDF or plywood to help contain the pieces* and limit the total number of clamps needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If built with care a clamping frame could probably allow a board of this size to be clamped successfully with just four stout clamps, without a clamping frame I think you'd want at least eight and possibly 12 or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also, how do I make those bowtie inlays?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should be asked as a separate Question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*An alternative would be custom clamping blocks or cauls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-12-06T08:52:47.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8051" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-06T16:30:29.717" Score="3" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have many projects that I need to apply finish to. Some I got away with using mineral oil (as that was the intended finish anyways) but others, a table and an acoustic guitar, I need to varnish with a polyurethane varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a climate (humidity and temperature) controlled workshop, however it does not have the ventilation that would be required to reasonably finish in, and it's also the air intake for the furnace that supplies the house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What strategies are there for this? The table is a Christmas gift and must be finished in time, the other does not have a strict schedule but I'd like to be able to finish on my own schedule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit : My main concern here is safely doing this, I have less concerns about the smell, if that's not a serious issue, I can spend most of my time not in the same room and then I'll have no issues&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2689" LastEditorUserId="2689" LastEditDate="2018-12-07T15:53:44.867" LastActivityDate="2018-12-07T15:53:44.867" Title="Finishing (varnish) in winter" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8051" CreationDate="2018-12-07T02:23:25.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe this will help?&#xA;Water borne polyurethane has a very low stink factor. I personally do not like the look of it it leaves the wood looking a little pale and a lower film thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2018-12-07T02:23:25.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8051" CreationDate="2018-12-07T08:29:32.570" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not an easy one as it sounds like you &lt;em&gt;shouldn't&lt;/em&gt; use oil-based poly in your workshop as you might normally as it will transfer the smell to the rest of the house. Never mind the health concerns (at that low concentration it's not likely there'll be an issue) but many people find the smell unpleasant, some even nauseating, so on that front alone it's worth going a different route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With oil-based finishes usually you can successfully reduce the released solvent vapours by using 'odorless' mineral spirits which although not truly without any odour can be damn close&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; but the smell from the regular spirits used in the polyurethane itself might be enough alone to make you not want to use it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alternative 1, finish in a different room&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I started woodworking in my kitchen, and as you can imagine when it came time to use finish I wasn't very popular if I was using regular poly, so I very quickly changed to finishing in a spare bedroom. With the door closed and one or more windows open the smell just outside was barely noticeable and I got reasonably good drying (although not as good as if I'd been able to leave the door wide open to maximise airflow).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a spare room that you can use for finishing for the next week or so I think you might need to look into using a different finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alternative 2, go with waterbased&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The best of the waterbased finishes are now really very good in terms of the level of protection they provide — equalling that of oil-based polys, at least in short-term testing — and while they typically don't make the wood look as good (there are workarounds for this if needed&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;) they are very low-VOC so both very safe to use indoors (even in an enclosed space) and what little smell there is is not at all objectionable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Waterbased finishes typically quickly and reliably so as long as the temperature is not too low, which sounds like it wouldn't be a problem in your workshop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here's what I might do&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;One of my favourite finishing strategies would minimise strong solvent odours and it falls firmly in the &lt;em&gt;looks-great-doesn't-take-long&lt;/em&gt; category. It's a three-layer process, which sounds like it would be slow but it's not, it's both very fast&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; and very important to me, makes almost all species look excellent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You start with BLO, then build the finish with shellac, then topcoat with poly. I would prefer to use oil-based poly for this, but you can substitute waterbased poly if you feel you must, the wood will already be looking excellent from the preceding steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I first learned of this some years ago online and then couldn't remember where I'd read it. I don't know if this was my original source (many things get 'shared' around online without attribution) but I found it again during the year here on the Woodsmith site, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodsmithtips.com/2012/08/23/a-finish-recipe-thats-fast-durable/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A Fast &amp;amp; Durable Finish Recipe&lt;/a&gt;. Note it can be downloaded as a PDF to your hard drive for easier reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Most people can't really smell it at about arm's length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; For example pre-treating the wood with BLO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Takes a day, two at most.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-12-07T08:29:32.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8054" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-07T15:30:31.270" Score="2" ViewCount="1076" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently received a secondhand saw, a black and decker 9442, and from what I can tell there is no way to adjust the blade height.  All I see is a tilt lever to make angle adjustments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I missing something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From this web shot of the saw it seems to have a lowered blade so I’m a bit confused...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is so, what are my options for using this machine safely?  I’ve read about using 7 1/4 circular saw blades on a table saw and thought it might be my only option apart from having a larger 10” blade exposed all the time.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iMrtj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5867" LastEditorUserId="2524" LastEditDate="2018-12-07T18:06:58.060" LastActivityDate="2018-12-07T18:11:58.407" Title="Table Saw without ability to lower blade" Tags="|table-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8054" CreationDate="2018-12-07T18:06:32.473" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The missing part is going to be a handwheel that attaches to the shaft that's about one-third from the left side of the arc cut into the side of the machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it turns, the motor assembly and saw blade will raise and lower as desired. As FreeMan suggests, grab the shaft with pliers, although that will degrade the surface of the shaft. Consider to pad the pliers with a piece of rubber or canvas to protect it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional research found a possible &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Decker-5140032-48-Handwheel-/253407374915?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;match on eBay&lt;/a&gt; but it would be wise to measure the shaft diameter and ask the seller to measure the item for sale. If there is a keyway on the shaft, that would be a factor to discuss with the seller too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4YSDv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4YSDv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;handwheel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastEditorUserId="3985" LastEditDate="2018-12-07T18:11:58.407" LastActivityDate="2018-12-07T18:11:58.407" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8048" CreationDate="2018-12-08T04:02:59.433" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Graphus stated in comment, the wood members in the arched top will expand and contract while cross grain ends will not.  The differences in expansion can easily cause failure in the top.  I can think of two ways to reduce this problem.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is to fabricate the end panels using the same wood with the grain oriented vertically so that the top and the ends are expanding at nearly the same rates.  I say 'nearly' because there could be some difference in expansion/contraction due to the curve of the top vs the side panels.  For a small box this should be relatively small and could be successful.  The larger the box, the more pronounced the difference mighty be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second option would be to secure the individual wood slats only to the end panels and join each slat to the others using and tongue and groove connection similar to the approach used for wood flooring.  That way the individual movement in each  slat is absorbed in the joint between them.  This approach has the advantage of absorbing a  much larger wood movement making larger boxes much more stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2018-12-08T04:02:59.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8058" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8059" CreationDate="2018-12-10T10:18:53.117" Score="2" ViewCount="2376" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to add a 'hard wax oil' on my kitchen table. However I have finished it with a three coats of linseed oil. (once 1:1 turpentine and linseed and 2 coats of pure linseed oil).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to give the table a 4th coat of a 'hard wax oil' on top?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5872" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2018-12-10T12:09:22.370" LastActivityDate="2018-12-10T12:25:12.293" Title="Wax Oil finish on linseed finish" Tags="|finishing|boiled-linseed-oil|wax|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8058" CreationDate="2018-12-10T12:25:12.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general there's no problem with adding a different oil-based finish on top of wood that was previously oiled. And despite widespread belief that this is necessary you don't have to allow the oil in the wood to 'dry' (cure) first, the two finishes should effectively meld together just as they would to a previous coat of the same finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may find it beneficial to gently scuff or &lt;em&gt;lightly&lt;/em&gt; sand before applying the &quot;hard wax oil&quot; but it may work perfectly well applied directly to the surface you already have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Caveat emptor&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you're seeking superior waterproofing than linseed oil provides by itself I would strongly recommend doing a test of some kind to check just what level of protection the other finish will actually provide. Consumer usage reports and independent testing have begun to show that manufacturer claims for the robustness and water-resistance of &quot;hard wax oil&quot; products can a little 'generous' (read: exaggerated) compared to previously established finishes on the market, chief among them being plain old varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-12-10T12:25:12.293" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6206" CreationDate="2018-12-10T20:30:12.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This can be salvaged easily. Use epoxy - it will create a bond stronger than the wood. In this case, you are to use glue to overcome the structural weakness of the wood itself and epoxy excels at that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need two part 5 minute epoxy (I suggest transparent instead of colored epoxy), clamps, scrap wood to protect the chair leg from the clamps. From the pictures given, it looks a like a clean break with a good surface and it is clampable - with a long clamp making contact at the chair leg top (the part that normally points to the ceiling)  and the chair leg bottom (the part that normally is touching the ground). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the hardware. Test fit the two parts, removing any bent bits or broken bits - you want the parts to fit together fully. Also test how your clamping will work, so you can adjust before you are 'on the clock' with mixed epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mix the 5 minute epoxy in equal parts (as per the directions). Then apply, attempting to cover the interior surfaces while avoiding the opening for the hardware and avoiding the exterior edges. Then clamp the pieces together firmly. The firmness of the clamping is important to the strength of the joint and keeps the leg in the correct shape. If your test fitting, didn't work, a second clamp across the short side of the leg will help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the epoxy drips into the channel for the hardware: You can unclamp the leg, open the joint, wipe the channel clean, and reclamp. When lazy, I have used a small carving gouge to remove the extra epoxy when it starts to harden, instead of unclamping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the outside of the leg has a smooth finish, if some of the epoxy bleeds out during clamping, my advice is to leave it. A small blob of epoxy is easier to remove than a smear of epoxy. On unfinished wood, the epoxy leaves the wood looking 'wet' with a glossy surface. Be advised: the epoxy can remove some or all of a finish under the blob when popped off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the epoxy claims five minutes to set, there is some variation depending on mixing, age of the product, etc. Also the full bonding of the epoxy takes a much longer time to set fully, so just leave it clamped up for a while longer - a few hours or so. Reassemble the chair normally. The repair will be visible as a hairline fracture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastEditorUserId="111" LastEditDate="2018-12-12T15:58:16.560" LastActivityDate="2018-12-12T15:58:16.560" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7886" CreationDate="2018-12-12T17:17:30.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of good points were commented but as a solution (much appreciated) I chose to use a 3/16&amp;quot; rabbet joint on the bottom board and then pocket screw and glue it in.  The rabbet joint provided a nice grove to keep the the box square. The pocket screws I just used were 1&amp;quot; and the plywood is 3/4&amp;quot; so I had to be delicate with not over drilling them but I think that goes with most 90 degree pocket screw joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K2TR0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K2TR0.png&quot; alt=&quot;Pocket vs. 90 degree butt&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5676" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2018-12-12T17:17:30.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8063" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8064" CreationDate="2018-12-12T19:45:22.093" Score="2" ViewCount="173" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yhRFr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yhRFr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;standing table base&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WI1Sx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WI1Sx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;similar desk used&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hi, I'm trying to raise my work desk to use as a standing desk to help with back pain and concentration as cheaply as possible with minimal cutting. I'd like for it to last at least a year. &#xA;Expecting load to be around 60 lbs + occasionally resting an arm on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the diagram, the pieces color coded the same are the same in dimension. The vertical white blocks are 3.5 inches in thickness in x-y. The horizontal pieces are 1.5 x 3.5. I'm planning to stick a few nails in the ends. The cyan rectangle on top is the footprint of my desk with wheels removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm most concerned with lateral movement at the moment. I'll have 2 monitors on top with 1 being my work monitor(lcd tablet) which I really don't need breaking on me due to failure in the base :D &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My rational is that the red blocks being directly on top keeps me from having to worry about joints breaking loose from the weight of the set up. The green blocks adding stability going  downward and between the thick blocks in case weight shifts forward and backward(green/red blocks facing forward and backwards). The pink blocks...I'm not too sure of but it seems like it could help with lateral stability by making an overall wider base and dispersing any lateral shift between the 2 thick blocks?? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what kind of wood it is. Hurricane Michael gifted me with lots of free wood from my destroyed garage. haha I'm pretty sure it's still strong enough for this use though  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I on the right track? Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5885" LastActivityDate="2019-03-20T13:19:55.810" Title="base for &quot;standing table&quot; strong enough?" Tags="|wood|furniture|design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8063" CreationDate="2018-12-12T21:10:00.207" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd actually advise against this design, because it is going to be hard to stand at. Your shins are going to constantly hit the purple members. And, as pointed out in comments, the green members don't do anything useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe consider a &quot;trestle&quot; design, because there aren't much racking forces here. Similar to the design of the desk, where the stiffness comes from a few horizontal struts, the lowest of which is recessed way back to give your legs some room. Even standing, you need room for legs and feet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the racking forces are going to be in the desk itself, and that is unlikely to be transferred to the base in any significant manner. Even if you fasten the desk to the base in a manner that makes it safe (i.e., keeps the desk from sliding off the base), it won't be a stiff enough connection to have the metal legs and base actually be a single moving mass. All you are doing here is artificially raising the floor level locally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2x4 or 2x6 construction is probably more than enough, and with static forces like this the lumber is probably stronger than much of the metal joints in that desk. The 4x4s are going to take most of those forces directly to the floor, so all you have to do is make it stiff &lt;em&gt;enough&lt;/em&gt; to assist with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any significant racking forces are going to shear off whatever you use to fasten the metal desk legs to the base (or shear the metal joints in the desk). Even beefy nylon straps (or velcro wraps) would be good enough, in my estimation, because (again) all we can do here is make sure the desk doesn't slip &lt;em&gt;off&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2018-12-17T16:10:16.963" LastActivityDate="2018-12-17T16:10:16.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8065" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8066" CreationDate="2018-12-12T21:28:43.573" Score="2" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am interested in building some projects around the house, such as martial arts display racks and single-belt display cases. Some examples of these can be seen &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stunningwoodwork.com/IMG_3915.JPG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;at this site&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.etsystatic.com/9999217/r/il/4f5823/1081210011/il_570xN.1081210011_s061.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;, along with single-belt display cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The inexpensive table saws ($100-150 US at Lowes/HD) have no guarantee that 0 degrees is 0, 45 degrees is 45, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What level table saw would give me the precision to be able to have some assurance of completing the above projects?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="77" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2018-12-13T05:31:12.693" LastActivityDate="2018-12-13T14:38:59.627" Title="Minimum table saw precision for project work?" Tags="|table-saw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8065" CreationDate="2018-12-12T21:39:54.537" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The printed gradients on table saw controls are just guidelines. At least in most cases. We aren't talking about computer-guided cutting heads here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would want to set up your cuts for square and angles by hand as a matter of course, and then try a few test cuts to see how they match. Some consideration for how to feed stock, how to make multiple cuts so that pieces &lt;em&gt;match&lt;/em&gt; each other and don't compound small errors, and what sort of blade to use have little to do with the price tag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should also be said that there is only so much precision you can get from wood as a material, and part of the charm of woodworking is that things aren't necessarily perfect. This isn't to say that striving for reasonable accuracy is meaningless! It just means that there is only so much accuracy you can expect, and most of that accuracy comes from the setup and use of the tools, not any deficiency in the tools themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are lots of how to guides on Youtube and elsewhere for setting up table saws and making square and angled cuts true enough for the amateur woodworker. Even with modest equipment this is within reach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just start making some sawdust!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2018-12-13T14:38:59.627" LastActivityDate="2018-12-13T14:38:59.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8065" CreationDate="2018-12-13T03:45:17.573" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even on high quality equipment the markings on the miter gauge and blade tilt is often not accurate use a good drafting triangle to get accurate 45's &amp;amp; 90's. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are in a metro area look for used equipment often times you can find very good deals.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As said above&#xA;&quot;There are lots of how to guides on Youtube and elsewhere for setting up table saws and making square and angled cuts true enough for the amateur woodworker. Even with modest equipment this is within reach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just start making some sawdust!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2018-12-13T03:45:17.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8069" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-14T01:04:35.020" Score="4" ViewCount="1057" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made bar top out of reclaimed redwood (planed and edged to clean wood) which I edged with stained white ash.  I intented to apply bar top epoxy.  I was using boiled linseed oil on other projects and without any thought decided to apply boiled linseed to my top.  Is there any way I can still epoxy this top or should I go with polyurethane?  Thanks for the help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5889" LastActivityDate="2018-12-14T01:30:15.240" Title="Epoxy bar top finish over boiled linseed oil" Tags="|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8069" CreationDate="2018-12-14T01:30:15.240" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you are good as long as you have let the BLO fully cure/dry.  Which could be up to a month or more depending on how thick it is and the drying conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5515" LastActivityDate="2018-12-14T01:30:15.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8023" CreationDate="2018-12-14T19:40:34.397" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're going to build a wall, just build a wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Framing lumber is pretty cheap. The only trick being that it can be a challenge to find straight pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Steps:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get your measurements for the long section.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Build the long section on the floor (2&quot; x 4&quot;, 16&quot; on center is perfectly sufficient as Ashlar mentioned in the comments).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Attach the built frame to the ceiling, the cinderblock wall and the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assuming the floor is concrete underneath you will need something to drive into concrete.  What you are looking for is a Ramset Driver.  It uses blanks (bullets) to drive the nails into the concrete.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You are going to have to decide if you want to cut or overlay the flooring.  It's easier to replace it in the future if you cut it; but if that is vinyl it'd be easy either way and it won't cause problems being underneath.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the boards on the floor are pressure treated/rated for contact with the floor/moisture.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Build the short frame.  Same procedure as the long frame, and attached at the corner.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Finish however you want.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A nailgun will make building the frame and attaching it to the ceiling much much faster. It may be worth renting if you don't have one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="212" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2018-12-14T20:29:16.330" LastActivityDate="2018-12-14T20:29:16.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8073" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8077" CreationDate="2018-12-16T19:18:48.160" Score="1" ViewCount="887" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a lot of primitive shelves out of roof battens. Normally I'd use a handsaw like this for the job:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FDhbk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FDhbk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battens are 2.5m x 50mm x 25mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of handheld powertool would replace this handsaw optimally? It doesn't have to be extremely accurate. The shelves look something like this and we need to cut the battens on the go wherever necessary without much pre-planning:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W33iE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W33iE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3934" LastEditorUserId="3934" LastEditDate="2018-12-18T10:09:59.013" LastActivityDate="2018-12-18T10:09:59.013" Title="Power tool for cutting roof battens" Tags="|power-tools|cutting|hand-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8074" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8075" CreationDate="2018-12-16T20:31:12.207" Score="1" ViewCount="81" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a TV here which weighs around 15 kg. It fits perfectly into the alcove next to my chimney breast, but that's not a convenient viewing angle. So what I want to do is build an arm which attaches to the wall and can swing out and let me use it, and also swing right back in to allow the TV screen to tuck back out of the way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I designed this thing here. It's essentially two frames inside eachother. The inner frame is designed to transfer the weight of the TV to the left-hand side, which is attached by hinges to the outermost frame. That's why the bottom-most part of the innermost frame is at that angle. I believe that will transfer the weight in the expected direction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then the outer frame is the same, but in reverse. It transfers the weight from the left-hand side to the right-hand side, where it will attach in the same way, by hinges, to a post that's firmly bolted to the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vozOv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vozOv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put half dovetailed lap joints in all corners except the one with an acute angle. That's because that joint will experience more of a compressive force, so a bridle joint will probably fit okay there. And I think they're easier to cut so that's why I chose it. And the halfdovetaillapjoints are for joints which I think will be more pulled apart at, than pushed together by the weight of the TV. The idea is to glue and clamp these joints. I possibly will not need to use screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The whole thing will be made from 1.5&quot;x1.5&quot; pine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this design going to work as I think it will? That is, will the weight be transferred in the manner that I expect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2463" LastActivityDate="2018-12-17T06:31:01.590" Title="Arm for heavy TV" Tags="|design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8074" CreationDate="2018-12-17T02:36:20.543" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several challenges with your design.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since you do not give dimensions for the frame,  I will assume it is fairly large.  The greater the width the more rotational force will be applied the back frame at the left side where the TV frame mounts to the back frame.  This load will have a tendency to cause the back frame to lower at the left.  To counter this force you will need to apply cross braces to the back frame to keep the corners square.  These cross braces will prevent the TV frame from nesting inside the back frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As The TV is extended out from the wall, the TV frame will be at an angle to the back frame. This may cause rotational torque which must be resisted by the back frame.  The 1.5&quot;deep members will not be deep enough (front to back) to resist this force.  The loads you are designing for are not merely the weight of the TV.  The weight is magnified by the distance of the back frame width.  Think of the mechanical advantage gained from a lever and fulcrum. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am not sure how the half dovetail joints you show will be strong enough to resist the forces. Dovetails work fine for drawer assemblies, but remember there are many dovetails in a box joint.  Here you only have one and the tails may not be long enough to avoid wood failure in sheer along the length of the wood in the tail.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sorry to say that there are no simple rules for sizing the members of this frame assembly.  My first instinct would be to use a manufactured metal assembly designed to mount a TV rather than experimenting with a makeshift wood project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2018-12-17T02:36:20.543" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8073" CreationDate="2018-12-17T06:33:41.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll want a mitre saw. Or possibly even a cordless jigsaw would do the job&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5895" LastActivityDate="2018-12-17T06:33:41.637" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8080" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-18T00:16:04.753" Score="3" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to put a 45° bevel (miter) on one edge of a 3/4&quot; board with a 1/2 &quot; 90° V-bit I already own.  This seems like it should be possible, but I am having issues 1) figuring out myself; or 2) finding straight-forward discussion or solution online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently, my toolpath is set as a profile, with 'machine vectors' set to 'on'.  All I get is a pocket of given length with 1/2&quot; 'V' profile at bottom and straight sides rest of the way to surface of material.  No bueno...any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5706" LastActivityDate="2018-12-18T00:16:04.753" Title="CNC-Vcarve: 45° Bevel on 3/4&quot; Board with 1/2 v-Bit" Tags="|router|cnc|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8081" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-18T22:14:27.563" Score="1" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;My question is simmilar to &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4594/will-this-setup-severely-reduce-the-cfm-from-my-dust-collector&quot;&gt;Will this setup severely reduce the CFM from my dust collector?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have 2&quot; ducting for a shop vac and a small dust deputy. I want to upgrade to a dust collector and 4&quot; piping, but since it is my hobby i have limited time so need to approach in stages. I was thinking of mounting the collector first and hooking it up to existing 2&quot; piping and then slowly replace piping with larger diameter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know all the differences between HVLP and LVHP, my question is more along the of &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;am i risking damage to the collector motor itself&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5900" LastActivityDate="2020-01-16T07:02:45.417" Title="Gradual upgrade of dust collection ducting" Tags="|dust-collection|shop|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8082" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-19T06:47:12.523" Score="1" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to woodworking and Youtube has been my guide so far. Most videos I have seen, I see them finish with oil but only on top/exposed surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, not on joints or under the table/benches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So should all surfaces be coated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5901" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2018-12-19T07:44:55.377" LastActivityDate="2018-12-19T08:27:11.347" Title="Oil finishing exposed surface only?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8082" CreationDate="2018-12-19T08:27:11.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it's perfectly OK to finish just the exterior surfaces of something if using an oil or oil-based finish&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. In fact it's the norm to do this for a couple of reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the main reasons not to use an oil finish on e.g. the inside of a drawer is that oil finishes require free access to air to cure&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; and since this takes weeks to a month or more &lt;em&gt;after the last coat has been applied&lt;/em&gt; this extends the finishing schedule far beyond what is practical for most makers, professional and amateur alike. If not FULLY cured on the interior of an enclosed piece of furniture the smell of linseed oil and some other slow-curing finish components can linger for a nearly unbelievably long time (literally for years). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;But the wood inside looks bare&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It's actually quite traditional for the interior surfaces of a drawer or chest for example to remain unfinished, and knowing this can help get over the (fairly natural I have to say) feeling it doesn't look right. Obviously the wood does need to be prepared well so there are no rough edges etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to take it one step further sanding the wood to a finer grit than you used on surfaces intended for finish, e.g. to 320 or a little higher, or scraping with a sharp fine scraper of some kind&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;, or post-sanding buffing can be used to refine the appearance. Any one of these, or some combination, can raise a natural sheen on wood and on interior surfaces this will be long-lasting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a more finished look than this is desired it's fairly common to restrict yourself to a fast-drying finish that doesn't have a strong odour, and a dilute coat of shellac is often chosen for this reason. Wax polish is also suitable. Both have nearly no smell in as little as 20-30 minutes and can be basically odourless in one day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; This includes straight oils like linseed oil and tung oil as well as products such as &quot;Danish oil&quot;, &quot;tung oil finish&quot; and &quot;teak oil&quot; (which are all typically diluted mixtures of oil and varnish), and to a lesser extent straight varnishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; See this previous question about the difference between drying and curing, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/884/what-is-the-difference-between-curing-and-drying/897?r=SearchResults&amp;amp;s=2|23.0843#897&quot;&gt;What is the difference between &amp;quot;curing&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;drying&amp;quot;?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; See &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1134/what-are-the-differences-between-sanding-and-scraping/1159?r=SearchResults&amp;amp;s=1|44.0986#1159&quot;&gt;What are the differences between sanding and scraping?&lt;/a&gt; for more on scraping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-12-19T08:27:11.347" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="756" CreationDate="2018-12-19T19:26:09.867" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is an old topic but hopefully this helps someone out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Painting MDF can be very frustrating. End &quot;grain&quot; in MDF will soak up paint faster than you can apply it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sand that with 320 then 600 then 1200. I use a tinted oil base primer. 3 coats block down with 400-600 and repeat until the end grain no longer soaks up your paint and has the same look as the face of the panel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you can paint. I have had good luck using Nason 2 stage automotive paint (base coat/ 2k clear coat). The important part is before the paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AHEoZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Here is an example finish&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5905" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2018-12-21T00:40:11.910" LastActivityDate="2018-12-21T00:40:11.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8085" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8087" CreationDate="2018-12-20T02:01:28.490" Score="6" ViewCount="1437" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a question about technique. When I cut small pieces of wood (1-2&quot;) I struggle to make precise square (90 degree) cuts by hand or handheld tools without a guide. If I just eyeball it I'll often be off by as much as 10 degrees, because it's hard to hold a tool at an exact perpendicular. If I mark off one side with a pencil line, I can cut along the line fine, but the cut is angled by up to 5 degrees to the other side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The obvious solution is to mark both sides. Indeed, marking say a square pole all around can help me get within 1-2 degrees if I can follow the line. Unfortunately, and this is also why I ask specifically about small pieces, the marking is very hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Usually I want to make a cut a certain distance from the other end, but the other end is often not a flat, perpendicular face either. Some pieces have rounded off corners, are slightly bent, or have other imperfections.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When measuring, there is a 1-2 mm error due to the alignment of the pencil vs. the ruler, and also the ruler sometimes not being able to follow the work piece exactly. For a large cut, this error is negligible, but 1 mm off on a 1 inch cut is a whopping 3% error.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I use something like a protractor, it's hard to measure out exactly 90 degrees for the same reasons: No nice corner to be perpendicular from, and not enough room to account for errors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I know people use miter saws for cutting precise angles. I don't have a miter saw but it's not clear to me how I could use for such a small piece.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously I could simply get an elaborate tool that includes a mechanical or laser guide, and use that. A table saw would also cut pretty consistently by virtue of being attached to a fixed feed rather than handheld. But surely it is possible to cut a very good perpendicular (error &amp;lt;1 degree) with hand tools only (pencil, straight edge/ruler, hand saw)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be clear, I'm not talking about cutting extremely irregular objects. I'm asking about cutting simple rectangular planks/boards, or long sticks with rectangular profiles (and 1-2&quot; thick). However, as is often the case with cheaper lumber these may not come with perfect corners or edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5443" LastActivityDate="2018-12-22T04:51:05.173" Title="Precise 90 degree cuts on small pieces" Tags="|hand-tools|traditional-techniques|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8086" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-20T08:12:10.290" Score="0" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;total amateur here. I’m trying to figure out some options for building, essentially, a pipe with these attributes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3-inch walls (can be hollow)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;inner diameter of about 3 feet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;length of this tube/pipe/tunnel would be also 3 feet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m thinking that the end caps would be easy - basically cut out two donuts with a router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What’s been challenging for me is figuring out the middle section without having to steam bend plywood to form the body of the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions besides steam bending? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more context as to why I’m trying to build this, I run a soft play rental business for kids under 5. I have some of these foam and vinyl wrapped tubes that are supported by wood understructures. The bent plywood that was previously used was very thin and essentially got punched through. Replacement costs are too prohibitive to reimport from China so I’m trying to recreate the wooden structure so that I can rewrap in foam and vinyl. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Picture reference (it’s the blue tube in the foreground): &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cgVvQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cgVvQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;It’s the blue tube in the foreground&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5906" LastEditorUserId="5906" LastEditDate="2018-12-20T18:38:03.433" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T18:38:03.433" Title="Recommendations for a 3’ diameter wooden pipe?" Tags="|bending|steam-bending|round|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8085" CreationDate="2018-12-20T08:48:39.020" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;To begin with you could really do with a try square or similar for marking square. Some form of square&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; should be considered standard equipment and many woodworkers find it useful to have more than one, e.g. a try square and/or a combination square for general use and an engineer's square that they might reserve for setting up machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should mention that if you had to or wanted to you could build a try square for yourself, they make a very good early learning project. &lt;em&gt;Perfect&lt;/em&gt; accuracy is possible if you use the right methods (perfect here meaning with an error too small to measure). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I just eyeball it I'll often be off by as much as 10 degrees, because it's hard to hold a tool at an exact perpendicular. If I mark off one side with a pencil line, I can cut along the line fine, but the cut is angled by up to 5 degrees to the other side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Practice, practice, practice. Most of us just don't saw enough to get really good at sawing square by hand and eye, but if you set aside a couple of hours to do nothing but practice square cutting you'll surely get a lot better at it&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many of the earlier hand-tool woodworking guides state that most people have a natural tendency to saw to one side or another — away or towards themselves — and I have found that to be the case personally. If you identify that you too have a bias in cutting you can begin to deliberately compensate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I don't saw enough to get good at it&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is the standard dilemma with leisure woodworkers, we want to be better at various tasks but don't do them enough to get good at them (at least initially). For some tasks the solution to accuracy problems is to jig it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One simple trick for helping to saw ends square is to use a sawing guide clamped to the board, similar to the chiselling guides shown in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4391/how-can-i-make-precise-corner-or-notch-cuts-on-the-edge-of-a-board/4393#4393&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And there's always the classic mitre box. Paul Sellers has a good video (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4nMmmD9n8gE&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) showing how to make your own which is worth a look. Following his instructions if you still struggle to get a perfectly vertical kerf you can always cheat&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; and use the previous tip to make your mitre box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;But surely it is possible to cut a very good perpendicular (error &amp;lt;1 degree) with hand tools only (pencil, straight edge/ruler, hand saw)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding in a square of some kind yes, even cutting freehand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To be clear, I'm not talking about cutting extremely irregular objects. I'm asking about cutting simple rectangular planks/boards, or long sticks with rectangular profiles (and 1-2&quot; thick). However, as is often the case with cheaper lumber these may not come with perfect corners or edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how accurate you want to be or the kind of accuracy you actually need in the work you're currently doing, but do be aware that trying to saw board ends very accurately square first/early on is sort of putting the cart before the horse. Except in general carpentry (where very high accuracy isn't needed) it's normally the case that at least one face and one edge are made flat and square first to turn them into datum surfaces, before marking your cuts and sawing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And for fine work it is normal to use a plane and a &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3361/one-day-projects-for-wood-working-fundamentals/3379#3379&quot;&gt;shooting board&lt;/a&gt; to shoot the ends to make them perfectly square and smooth while simultaneously getting the board to final length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; A caution on buying squares in general, you unfortunately can't assume they are square! Yeah they have &lt;em&gt;one job&lt;/em&gt; but manufacturing these days ain't what it used to be. Woodworking try squares are the most notorious for being out of square and many can't be fixed (easily) so it's well worth buying these in person and checking for square in the shop and getting the best one. Combination squares may be out a bit too, these can sometimes be fixed with a little careful filing inside the groove of the fence. Speed squares, because they're cast in one piece and not machined or assembled from parts, tend to be dead on (including inexpensive plastic ones).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Same deal with sawing dovetails, chopping mortises, planing flat and some other things, which benefit from concerted practice rather than the accumulation of experience piecemeal over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Note: not actually cheating :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2018-12-20T19:48:02.807" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T19:48:02.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8086" CreationDate="2018-12-20T13:16:12.670" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;this is how barrels are made: You make it out of individual staves that are then compressed with a band to hold liquid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T13:16:12.670" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8086" CreationDate="2018-12-20T16:16:50.197" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe not quite what you are looking for because you don't say &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; this needs to be solid wood, but you could re-purpose something like ABS or PVC pipe (or even those forms used to make smaller foundation pilings) and cover it in quality wood veneer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T16:16:50.197" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8086" CreationDate="2018-12-20T16:27:35.590" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Flexible plywood can be used for this. It typically has a bend radius of about 12&quot;, so your 3' diameter should be fine. Do note that flexible plywood is usually pretty thin, so to get the 3&quot; wall thickness you'd need two layers of plywood with some solid wood spacers between them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would need some kind of form to bend the plywood and to construct the double layered wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T16:27:35.590" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8086" CreationDate="2018-12-20T18:00:37.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the best way would be to make multiple of those &quot;donuts&quot; out of a thicker plywood, and use them as bulkheads down the length of the pipe. Run stringers to link them together, then bend a thinner plywood around and either glue, nail, screw or a combination to the bulkheads. Or, if you think you can pull it off, figure out how many 1x4's it will take to go around the circumference, and cut the angles accordingly rip-style on a table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How structurally strong does it have to be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2689" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T18:00:37.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7966" CreationDate="2018-12-20T20:03:04.743" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would strongly suggest that you look at a track saw rather than a circular saw. You will be able to do all the cuts you would with the circular saw but with a much higher degree of accuracy. I went through a circular saw, then a sliding mitre saw and finally got my track saw about 2 months ago. It has probably made the biggest difference to the quality of my work than any other tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost every brand has a track saw at all different price points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5908" LastEditorUserId="5908" LastEditDate="2018-12-21T17:59:52.563" LastActivityDate="2018-12-21T17:59:52.563" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8093" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-21T00:33:36.270" Score="1" ViewCount="56" Body="&lt;p&gt;To ensure that a tusk stays put longer in a mortise, is the nature of the finish critical (assuming the piece is cut to a L:W ratio ~10:1)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The particular type of construction i’m referring to is this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7BwXMm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7BwXMm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;tusked tenon&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;(image From “Illustrated Cabinetmaking” by Bill Hylton, sampled from &lt;a href=&quot;https://studiomakedo.wordpress.com/category/projects-joints-and-connections/detail-locked-and-tusk-mortise-and-tenons-joints/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On other sites, found mixed user reports about &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumberjocks.com/topics/35733&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wax being inadequate&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastActivityDate="2018-12-21T00:33:36.270" Title="Choosing a finish for a tusk/key/wedge that stays put" Tags="|finishing|joinery|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8094" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8095" CreationDate="2018-12-21T04:33:00.567" Score="1" ViewCount="583" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a cherry and walnut cutting block from an amateur woodworker. Inspecting the surface, there are these little pits in the wood, which are possibly table saw or planer marks that weren't sanded out. The cherry seems to have these pits more often than the walnut, but I'm not totally sure if it is a wood defect or a result of leaving machine marks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the appropriate next step to try to hand sand or to use an orbital sander? Or would I have to do something more drastic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gij6e.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gij6e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;see image here &quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2018-12-21T08:31:03.803" LastActivityDate="2018-12-21T08:31:03.803" Title="End-grain cutting block surface smoothness" Tags="|sanding|end-grain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8094" CreationDate="2018-12-21T08:29:59.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;These pits are a type of tearout, perhaps more accurately described as chipout although you do see the two terms used somewhat interchangeably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is the appropriate next step to try to hand sand or to use an orbital sander? Or would I have to do something more drastic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is more about what you &lt;em&gt;want&lt;/em&gt; to do than what you &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; to do since you can safely leave them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Leave 'em&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Despite what people all over the Internet opine about divots in wooden boards harbouring ebola, or something, old wooden boards have always borne lots of knife scars, chips and other defects and there's no evidence they're less hygienic as a result (as long as the board is washed regularly of course, as all boards used with wet food should be)&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Smooth the wood off&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you do want to remove them then your two main options are planing with a very sharp plane or sanding. It won't be a fast process either way but with power sanding available certainly less effort to sand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to try planing many prefer to use low-angle bevel-up planes for end grain but any standard bench plane is capable of doing the work with only a little more effort; you'll probably need to sharpen periodically through the process as end grain is very blunting (obviously this depends on the steel in your plane irons). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go the sanding route I think you should start with 60 grit or even coarser&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; and then work up the grits without a big jump, ending at perhaps 320.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Option #3, fill&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you degrease carefully you can fill them with epoxy. Again lots of Internet bumf about how epoxy isn't safe for direct food contact but there's zero evidence for that either, and plenty to suggest that it is. Clear epoxy fills will be largely invisible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative worth considering is to treat the board with melted wax. You're best off thoroughly degreasing here too. When applied this way wax is capable of filling practically any size of defect, although being relatively soft it won't last indefinitely and will need to be reapplied periodically if you want to maintain a flat surface. Wax fills will be more visible since they'll be the native colour of whatever wax or wax blend is chosen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I would leave them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Note that this is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; equally true of plastic boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Starting with very coarse abrasive on a surface that's already basically smooth sounds counterproductive but unless you're using a belt sander it's the only way to remove a significant amount of wood efficiently. I would definitely not recommend this route if only hand sanding were available because you have to work the entire surface evenly. Sanding off that much end grain, even on relatively soft species like cherry and walnut, will take approximately forever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-12-21T08:29:59.103" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8081" CreationDate="2018-12-21T15:15:04.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A severe intake restriction should place less load on the motor than an severe exhaust restriction like a clogged filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a dust collector where the motor is mounted outside of the blower housing, you should not have an issue. As the motor cooling is not dependent on the intake air volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may not be risking damage to the dust collector motor, but its performance will be very poor if you have long runs of 2 inch pipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="453" LastActivityDate="2018-12-21T15:15:04.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8097" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-21T15:32:45.533" Score="1" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;This wouldn't really be a woodworking question but I need to know for future reference. I'm doing a school project where my team and I are making a car out of cardboard, glue and two 3/4in x 40in dowels. So I would just like to know the strength of the dowels because they would most likely be used as the axles of the car (Where the wheels attach). Our &quot;Driver&quot; per se, weighs about 120 pounds so he's a skinny guy, but I just want to know if they have they strength to support his weight. The pressure would be mostly situated on the middle of the dowel so that is where my concern stems from. If anyone who knows what they're doing then that would be a big help because I know nothing of this.&#xA;Thank you for your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5912" LastActivityDate="2018-12-22T04:36:17.233" Title="Strength For Dowels" Tags="|dowel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8098" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8099" CreationDate="2018-12-21T20:17:15.783" Score="2" ViewCount="2841" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first major woodworking projects and I'm having a bit of trouble. I have built this custom music studio desk and it keeps wobbling side to side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does have a lot of weight on it so it needs to solid. The 'open legs' are 19 inches apart and made from 3/4&quot; inch plywood and the table top is 2 inch thick White Pine as well as the shelves that hold the speakers. There are 6 2x4 beam supports between each leg keeping the 2 sheets of plywood together at 19 inches apart and L brackets on the top and bottom connecting the beam and plywood side together on all sides. The table top is screwed in from the bottom up and that's it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I chose this design and how to screw it in based off the necessity of needing the space between the legs to be open to host the rackmount equipment. I am pretty limited on what I can do because I need the space to be open as much as possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of the desk so far.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions will help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!   &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ySMez.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ySMez.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Studio Desk&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VzLcs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VzLcs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;back of leg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5915" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2018-12-22T07:32:46.387" LastActivityDate="2018-12-22T07:32:46.387" Title="How might I fix wobble in my studio desk build?" Tags="|wood|plywood|tabletop|wood-movement|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8098" CreationDate="2018-12-21T22:08:04.870" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Moving from side-to-side like this is called &quot;racking&quot;.  It involves the piece going out of square.  Essentially the joints you have between the top and the legs do not provide sufficient support against the pieces pivoting relative to each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically you'd prevent this by having some sort of diagonal bracing.  This could be just a small bracket, or it could be a brace (or even wires) going from corner to corner.  Two typical things that prevent this without being obvious &quot;braces&quot; are aprons and full backs on cabinets.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given this design I would personally probably add a plywood back to the cabinet on the left with some openings for cabling and some kind of diagonal brace or bracket attaching the right side to the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2018-12-21T22:08:04.870" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8097" CreationDate="2018-12-22T04:36:17.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The centre of the axle is the worst place a point load. The best place to apply it is just inside the 2 wheels. If the structure can't transfer the driver's weight out to those points, then build a truss unit that rests on top of the axle to help distribute the load without too much flex. You can also build a box beam or a triangle beam, much like a tower crane.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If the driver is the only major load, try to have the weight shared evenly by both axles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5916" LastActivityDate="2018-12-22T04:36:17.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8085" CreationDate="2018-12-22T04:51:05.173" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The type of handsaw and the technique used are also important. Choose a backsaw with crosscut teeth and minimum set. Find a larger saw to give you more depth of cut.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If the miter box slot is wide, try to keep the saw blade hugging one side or the other. Don't let the saw blade wobble. Use long light strokes and Bruce Lee concentration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5916" LastActivityDate="2018-12-22T04:51:05.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8081" CreationDate="2018-12-22T05:04:43.377" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Central home vacuum systems use long runs of 2-inch pipe. The motors seem to always get bigger without changing the piping. A severely restricted intake would let the fan freewheel, and the motor speeds up slightly. It won't overload the motor.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If there is too much suction noise, you could build a diverter vent. You could baffle it and you could make it adjustable. Central vacuum systems have an output sound muffler that you could use as part of your intake diverter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5916" LastActivityDate="2018-12-22T05:04:43.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8104" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8105" CreationDate="2018-12-23T18:14:07.680" Score="2" ViewCount="2567" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to build square shelving out of 15mm (5/8&quot;) plywood without using screws, so no pocket holes either. I'm trying to drop screws, I feel like it's much easier to do repetitive work with a table saw than with a power drill (I actually use four drills so that I can make the sink hole, shank hole, pilot hole and drive the screws readily — haven't found a sink drill that matches the shank hole I need, it'd need to be thicker, so I do these separately) and also much easier to align the pieces later when I'm using dadoes or similar joinery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tried tongue and dado and it broke during assembly, as expected — so many people claimed it worked for them on forums, so I gave it a go, I've got a kerfmaker and it's really easy to make dadoes with it. I guess it would work with solid wood, but not plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't do box joints because my table saw will not accept dado stacks and also dado stacks are really hard to find in my country.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done rabbets, but I don't really trust them without screws. Is this silly? What other easy joinery options are there that can be used with plywood for things like square shelving and drawers, that can be made with a table saw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v9Hw7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v9Hw7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Broken dado in plywood&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5226" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2018-12-24T08:33:33.257" LastActivityDate="2018-12-24T11:47:06.183" Title="Easy drawer joints for plywood" Tags="|joinery|table-saw|plywood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8104" CreationDate="2018-12-24T08:33:49.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to use screws that's fine, many woodworkers have a philosophical objection to them (not just when seen, using them at all) and they're entitled to that view. Except for utilitarian stuff like workshop storage I totally get it when the screws would be visible, I hate that too unless they're firmly part of the design&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, but it is a shame not to take advantage of one of the best fasteners available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your objection seems largely based on the hassle of drilling the different holes needed however, which totally makes sense, but FYI they make combination bits which drill a countersink (or counterbore if you just drill a little deeper), clearance hole and pilot hole in one shot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zLP3B.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zLP3B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Combination bits&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Two styles of combination bits. Note the adjustability.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are cheaper ones which only cost a few dollars/Euros (for a set, not each bit) and work OK, but expect to get better performance over time if you spend more. For anyone who is finding drilling of the respective holes for screws a hassle these bits could be transformative!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Tried tongue and dado and it broke during assembly, as expected &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just be aware this type of failure can be largely due to the quality of the plywood being used. Better plywood is made from hardwood throughout and tends to have superior glue joints also, although there's never a guarantee you won't get a breakage like this they're much less likely (and can usually be repaired).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I can't do box joint because my table saw will not accept dado stacks and also dado stacks are really hard to find in my country.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many argue that box joints are better cut by a router anyway so if you have a router or expect to buy one in future bear this in mind. There are probably dozens of designs of box-joint jig freely available online so you'll have no difficulty in locating one if/when you need to build one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @Kromster says in a comment above box joints can actually be cut by hand too, but I feel as some others do that if you're going to that much trouble you should just do dovetails as they're stronger, look better and only take a tad more effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've done rabbets, but I don't really trust them without screws. Is this silly? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rebates are a little weak and depending on the use the item will be put to, and the loads it is expected to carry, they may be too weak if fixed with glue alone&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, especially in plywood, so no I don't think this is silly. However there are other ways of reinforcing them without resorting to screws. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't object to them visually and the space they take up isn't an issue you can affix thin battens inside each corner joint as reinforcements. These can just be glued in place but many glue and tack them on with a few small nails as well since this largely removes the need to clamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a fan of dowels and I don't mind when they show so I would often reinforce a corner rebate joint with through dowels. Dowels are a superb choice for reinforcement in plywood because they are cheap, easy to drill for, have less tendency to split the material, and their length and thickness can be adjusted at will for different situations at essentially no extra cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that both of the above can also be used to reinforce butt joints, which can speed production of numerous repeat items like storage cubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What other easy joinery are there that can be used with plywood for things like square shelving and drawers, that can be made with a table saw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Butt joints or mitre joints. They are the weakest joints by themselves, especially in plywood, but suitably reinforced they can be more than strong enough for service. Butt joints can be reinforced with nails, screws, dowels, 'feathers' or keys&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;, splines, biscuits or floating tenons; internally with glue blocks or glue strips, an epoxy fillet and arguably the crudest and most utilitarian option, metal plates. Note also that if attaching a back (or in the case of a drawer, the bottom) this can add greatly to the overall strength and can take the place of a reinforcement at that side of the box structure being built.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Highly recommend downloading &lt;strong&gt;Plywood Woodworking for Everybody&lt;/strong&gt; by John G. Shea for more. This is available free on Archive.com (along with numerous other woodworking books).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; And aren't a horrible zinc-plated colour!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Although sizing the 'end grain' of the ply prior to final assembly can help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Keys can be thick or thin, straight or angled, rectilinear or dovetail shaped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-12-24T08:33:49.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8104" CreationDate="2018-12-24T11:47:06.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might try using dowel rods to pin the corners, using contrasting wood would become a design element&#xA;just my 2 cents. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2018-12-24T11:47:06.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8108" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-24T14:49:05.007" Score="0" ViewCount="36" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi I bought new fence 3 weeks ago its fresh cut and delivery to here it like sort like green not brown wood and I guess that wood very fresh cut will it be ok to paint sealer dark walnut on it or should I wait 3 months to paint sealer ?? Please let me know .. Brett&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5919" LastActivityDate="2018-12-24T14:49:05.007" Title="Plywood sealer paint coated" Tags="|plywood|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1716" CreationDate="2018-12-24T22:51:18.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you quickly need 1 or 2 self-tappers, try this. Use diagonal cutter pliers to grasp the threads along the length of the screw. Squeeze tightly and you have 2 quick grooves to act as tapping points.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Also, if I am re-assembling a plastic device, electronic etc, the small screws are sometimes too tight for the hole. A quick pinch with the diagonal cutter helps the screw cut the plastic a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5916" LastActivityDate="2018-12-24T22:51:18.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8110" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-26T21:08:51.430" Score="2" ViewCount="957" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on staining some new, unfinished maple shelves. Unfortunately, I got careless and applied a layer of oil-based polyurethane instead of the pre-stain wood conditioner. Is there something I can do to salvage this project? Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5928" LastActivityDate="2018-12-27T23:02:17.177" Title="Accidentally applied polyurethane instead of wood pre-conditioner. Now what?" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8111" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-27T02:42:15.253" Score="1" ViewCount="123" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to build a few cat houses for local feral cats to help during the winter and protect them from coyotes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of using about 1 inch hardwood plywood. What are some good joints to use that provides the best chances for the cat house standing up against a coyote? The cat house will have two levels which the upper level allow the cat to remain safely from jaws of the coyote. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are any other suggestions I would love to hear those too.  Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4229" LastEditorUserId="4229" LastEditDate="2018-12-27T23:55:23.510" LastActivityDate="2018-12-27T23:55:23.510" Title="Good joints for a feral cat house" Tags="|joinery|plywood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8111" CreationDate="2018-12-27T04:06:11.413" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use 2x2 (actually 1.5 inch square) as an integral frame to join each plywood piece at right angles. With 2.5 inch screws it would be a strong structure.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Keep the entry holes small, and always have a back door available for the little guys. At each entry you could build a &quot;rattle-trap&quot; that makes a noise when the cats approach each door. It would rattle when the coyote approaches, thus waking the cats. Back door exit, remember?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5916" LastActivityDate="2018-12-27T04:06:11.413" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8110" CreationDate="2018-12-27T23:02:17.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have the ability to spray on a finish you could use something like PolyShades. I have not had any luck brushing it on, but I am extremely picky. I sprayed it on a maple cabinet that was primed with clear poly, it has held up will over 15 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2018-12-27T23:02:17.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2865" CreationDate="2018-12-28T14:01:22.673" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I work for The Home Depot in the paint department, and the cans say STIR, DO NOT SHAKE. Bubbles are the issue, if you don't use a brush. From my personal experience, i have had bubbles either way. It has been true in my experience that if you lightly brush back the bubbles can go away. I have also lightly run across the surface with Mineral Spirits to dissolve the bubbles, and that works. Overall I wouldn't choose to shake an oil based poly, because it creates more bubbles than you'd want, but there are ways around it. To get the best results, just follow the directions on the can. I can't tell you how many times i've explained what to do to get the best results from a product, and customers don't listen, and they come back and say &quot;this product didn't work&quot;. Just follow the &quot;RECOMMENDED&quot; directions from the product; it's there for a reason, but to each his own. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5936" LastEditorUserId="5936" LastEditDate="2018-12-28T14:09:44.150" LastActivityDate="2018-12-28T14:09:44.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8115" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-28T22:58:18.317" Score="1" ViewCount="299" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a piano style shell for my midi controller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back piece with the 2 decorative flairs on it is actually on a hinge and folds down for easy access to plugging in cables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's made from pine 1/4&quot; ply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has bent and concaved about 1/8 inch or so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have 1 hinge on the left side and 1 hinge on the right side. If I put a hinge in the middle, it won't fold all the way down as the bowing puts stress on the screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried to spray some water on the concave side and put it on a flat surface with some clamps but that didn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would I go about getting this to be more straight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mc9f6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mc9f6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rear View&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5938" LastActivityDate="2018-12-31T18:20:20.093" Title="How to fix a bent piece of pine plywood?" Tags="|plywood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8116" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-28T23:40:33.017" Score="2" ViewCount="207" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just finished painting my cabinets white, and to finish it off I put three coats of polycrylic on top to make them more durable. I placed the cabinet doors back on yesterday. Today, while making a berry smoothie for breakfast I splattered some on the cabinet door, but didn't notice it for a couple of hours. When I did, I went to wipe it off, but it left a stain on my white door that will not come off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Three questions: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do that will remove the stain without harming the polycrylic?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How did this happen? I figured polycrylic would encourage stains to wipe right off.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What should I do now to make sure future messes won't stain the cabinets?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5940" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-02-02T13:15:53.537" LastActivityDate="2020-02-25T03:45:40.517" Title="Food stain on polycrylic cabinet" Tags="|finishing|clean-up|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8117" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8125" CreationDate="2018-12-29T02:01:04.350" Score="3" ViewCount="1870" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a 20V toolkit from Dewalt which included a pretty typical Dewalt drill/driver. I noticed that it doesn't have a drill drip though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really am a fan of drill grips for a number of reasons and don't really do any close quarters work that would prohibit using one. Are there any grips available either from DeWalt or aftermarket that would fit a typical Dewalt drill/driver?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For comparison, the 20V XR hammer drill has a 360-degree grip:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bXRV1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bXRV1.png&quot; alt=&quot;Hammer Drill&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 0:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My DeWalt Drill Number Is: DCD780&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 1:&lt;/strong&gt; These are the diameter measurements for my drill (By a digital caliper):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fGJjG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fGJjG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Measurements&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3800" LastEditorUserId="3800" LastEditDate="2019-01-03T22:09:37.140" LastActivityDate="2019-01-03T22:09:37.140" Title="Is There a Drill Grip for a Typical Dewalt Drill?" Tags="|power-tools|tools|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8117" CreationDate="2018-12-29T03:35:13.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My new Ridgid drill/driver grip uses 2 pinching jaws that tighten onto nubs on the drill body. My earlier Ridgid drill has a conventional 360 grip with a 55mm diameter collar. These 2 styles are common, even within the same brand. Since your Dewalt uses a 360 grip, you can measure your drill collar diameter and choose any grip that matches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5916" LastEditorUserId="5916" LastEditDate="2018-12-29T18:24:40.000" LastActivityDate="2018-12-29T18:24:40.000" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8119" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8127" CreationDate="2018-12-29T21:33:28.447" Score="1" ViewCount="3490" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using the circular saw seen below, and I would like to make a plunge cut, and I can't figure out how to do it. The bladeguard is in the way, and although I can pull it back manually with the black lever seen at left under the XR logo, that requires one of my hands to remain occupied holding it back, which is not desirable-- I need both hands to guide the saw, personally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is this done? Am I missing something? It seems very odd that there isn't an obvious way to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1308e.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1308e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2487" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2023-05-23T23:55:05.687" LastActivityDate="2023-05-25T22:07:16.087" Title="How do I get the blade-guard out of the way for a plunge cut with a Dewalt circular saw?" Tags="|safety|circular-saw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8121" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8124" CreationDate="2018-12-29T22:28:41.823" Score="3" ViewCount="1576" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to make a corner shelf that would match some existing pieces of furniture. I cannot understand how the edge was made, or more precisely, how I could achieve something similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The round part of the edge is around 2 inch high, way too much even for 1/2 inch shank router bits. Here's how an existing (not corner shelf) &lt;a href=&quot;https://mobexpert.ro/collections/mobilier-living-louis-philippe/products/sms740-60&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;shelf looks like&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/43zGW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/43zGW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is solid wood (hard wood), mass-produced, stained and lacquered. The other parts of the profile look like I can tackle them but the round, large part is out of my imagination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How could one achieve this, and not necessarily on a straight portion (i.e. I dream of making the corner shelf as a quarter of a circle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y4fG7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y4fG7.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.. only with an edge profile that would match the &quot;Louis Philipe&quot; shelf above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this feasible with DIY tools or only industrial ones? If feasible, how?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastActivityDate="2019-01-02T18:13:26.907" Title="How to achieve a rounded edge on a thick panel of solid, hard wood" Tags="|technique|furniture|power-tools|router-bit|roundover|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8122" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-30T00:38:59.413" Score="2" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;I make crosses for my ministry to hand out at various events. Up until now I have cut these out individually using a band saw. This is very time consuming. Recently I had the idea of using a dado blade or router table to cut my stock into the shape of a cross when viewed from the end, then &quot;chopping&quot; it into the proper thickness (~1/2&quot;) using a chop saw or a table saw. The problem is both have a tendency to want to launch the crosses when the cross cut is made. Can anyone offer a suggestion for holding the crosses after they are cut? I'm thinking I may have to build a custom jig, but I'm not sure how to design it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5944" LastActivityDate="2019-01-05T00:01:30.600" Title="Multiple cross cuts" Tags="|technique|jig|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8121" CreationDate="2018-12-30T13:14:10.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Commercially this type of deep profile will often be created using a &lt;em&gt;spindle moulder&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, a floor-standing machine sort of like a router table on steroids. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But no small-scale professional woodshop or home woodworker would approach this as a single operation. Instead the profile would be broken up into portions that can be formed by separate shaping operations that can be accomplished one by one (usually but not exclusively by using a router and various bits&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;) and if necessary also by making separate pieces that get joined together at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this for example the top flat portion would be best made separately, so that the deep undercut beneath it doesn't have to be created by removing a large volume of wood from a very thick piece. Then the fatter bottom portion would be shaped with perhaps three or four router shaping operations, then the two pieces glued together. The challenge is in finding router bits that fit portions of the profile and in figuring out the correct order to do the shaping operations — sorry to skip over details here but this is a subject a little beyond the scope of an Answer here, an entire chapter in a router book might be devoted to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Spindle moulders are big, heavy, expensive, noisy and considered extremely dangerous. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; In the past these would have been done primarily using wooden moulding planes, which is why traditional workshops needed a sizeable storage area as they needed lots and lots of them (sometimes hundreds), each size of each type of profile often needing its own plane. Some hand-tool fans still do small-scale production moulding using moulding planes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2018-12-30T13:14:10.720" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8117" CreationDate="2018-12-30T14:59:32.763" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Graphus mentioned in a comment that style of drill doesn't really have an area where a grip would normally attach but I thought I'd see how it went with a grip attached to the torque adjustment ring on a fairly similar drill and this is what it looked like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/10FIk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/10FIk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I gave it a test and it actually worked pretty well because as the drill turns clockwise it's natural to press downwards on the grip which holds the torque control in the maximum / drill position. The actual grip I used was from a Dewalt DCH274 which has a fair range of adjustment so maybe you can buy one of those as a spare part, but otherwise I think any similar grip of a suitable diameter will be suitable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also just thought to add the grip from something like a DCD991 / DCD996 in your photo won't work because they are too small in diameter to fit onto the torque adjustment ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="987" LastEditorUserId="987" LastEditDate="2018-12-30T15:08:18.663" LastActivityDate="2018-12-30T15:08:18.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8126" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8133" CreationDate="2018-12-30T18:45:36.767" Score="1" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to bend ash for the stem of a canoe.  I am trying to select straight grained quarter-sawn pieces.  Should I select pieces which have faster or slower growing wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="686" LastActivityDate="2019-01-01T22:59:57.080" Title="Bending Wood: is it easier to bend fast or slow growing ash" Tags="|bending|steam-bending|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8119" CreationDate="2018-12-30T21:03:37.473" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plunge cutting is not a recommended use of a circular saw. The manufacturer intends for the saw to be pushed into the work-piece. The work-piece will rotate the safety guard up into the saw, and allow the blade to travel through the work-piece. There are no published instructions for plunge cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To plunge cut, the guard must be held back so that the blade can enter the work-piece. This can be accomplished by rotating the guard into the saw, and holding onto the black handle with the thumb of the right hand (the trigger hand is the left). Pull the guard back before pulling the trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5389" LastActivityDate="2018-12-30T21:03:37.473" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8115" CreationDate="2018-12-31T18:20:20.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cut a piece of 3/4&quot; plywood 4&quot; wide and 2&quot; less than the width of the shell. Glue and screw it to the back panel to add rigidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5389" LastActivityDate="2018-12-31T18:20:20.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8131" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8132" CreationDate="2019-01-01T04:08:33.333" Score="2" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to try an effect where corner keys for a decorative box show on both outside and inside (typical approach is the cut does not go all the way through the corner with the key only showing on the outside of the box).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's easy to make the cut depth needed and fashion a key piece big enough, removing the outside waste from the keys as usual, but given that the bottom of the box could be close to a key, even within an inch, I can't come up with a straightforward way to remove the key waste on the inside. Even using a delicate sawing technique it seems like one could all too easily damage the bottom and/or sides and/or corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have thought about pre-shaping the key with a corner before glueing in, so that just sanding is needed, but not sure what is best way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5706" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-01-01T08:19:10.730" LastActivityDate="2019-01-01T09:22:29.230" Title="Removing excess key from Inside of box" Tags="|boxes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8131" CreationDate="2019-01-01T09:22:29.230" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I can't come up with a straightforward way to remove the key waste on the inside. Even using a delicate sawing technique it seems like one could all too easily damage the bottom and/or sides and/or corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sawing may be one of the better methods to remove the majority of the excess, although it does come with some danger a great many operations in woodwork pose a certain amount of risk of doing some damage to the wood (including sanding). This is an aspect of David Pye's &lt;a href=&quot;http://promotingprimitivism.blogspot.com/2014/01/the-workmanship-of-risk-vs-workmanship.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;the workmanship of risk&quot;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking I would probably try doing this first by notching the key with a sharp knife, then by doing some careful work with one or more chisels, but the size of the box may make this impossible unless using skews and furthermore there's always a chance of marring adjacent surfaces when paring flush even in ideal circumstances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So back to sawing, a quality flush-cutting saw with a flexible blade is ideal for this kind of work. An option is to tape one side of small pull saw, and in a pinch you can also use &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.pinimg.com/originals/b1/25/25/b125256048347285c9e879b6bf7b1a31.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a hacksaw blade&lt;/a&gt;. These two options will leave more wood proud of the surface which will require more effort to clean up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cleanup&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Once you have removed all or almost all of the excess, you will be left with some cleanup. Sanding into a corner is tricky to say the least. Scraping is a better option in this situation, the work can be tedious but it is what it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A small bullnose plane may be the ideal tool to deal with the remainder and make the keys perfectly flush, but not everyone has one of these or can afford one, so careful scraping may be the preferred solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have thought about pre-shaping the key with a corner before glueing in, so that just sanding is needed, but not sure what is best way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this is actually a viable option, and actually one of the better ones if you can figure out how to do it accurately and repeatably. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Accurately aligning the cutouts in the keys to the inside of the corner may turn out to be the most critical aspect of this method. Small blocks inside the corners to clamp against (covered in tape or well waxed to protect them from glue) might prove useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want the box finished inside as well as out pre-finishing the inside of the box* would make cleanup of any glue squeeze-out easier (glue doesn't bond to finished wood). I would use either paste wax or a light coat of shellac for this myself, but spray lacquer could also be perfectly suitable. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/8082/oil-finishing-exposed-surface-only&quot;&gt;this recent Q&amp;amp;A&lt;/a&gt; for why you might want to avoid using any oil-based finish here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you prefer to leave the inside of the box bare protect adjacent surfaces using tape. Packing tape is great for this as it's wide and very thin, and costs a lot less than equivalent painters' tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*If you pre-finish the box pieces before assembly be very careful not to get any finish on joint surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-01-01T09:22:29.230" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8126" CreationDate="2019-01-01T22:59:57.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;What is ‘best’? Straightness and freedom from&#xA;knots have already been mentioned. Equally, if&#xA;not more important is the speed of growth of&#xA;the wood. The faster it is grown, the greater the&#xA;proportion of summer growth to winter growth.&#xA;It is the summer growth that is strong and that&#xA;will put up with being bent, while the winter&#xA;growth is relatively weak. Wood with say three&#xA;growth rings per inch will bend far more&#xA;successfully than wood with 10 rings per inch.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://thewindsorworkshop.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/steam-bending-article-3-pages.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://thewindsorworkshop.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/steam-bending-article-3-pages.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="686" LastActivityDate="2019-01-01T22:59:57.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8135" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-02T17:53:23.883" Score="3" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning on a few different projects around the house for the new year, including some bookcases for the bedroom, a couple of shelf units, a new aquarium stand, and possibly built in closet improvements (drawers and shelves).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will be getting a table saw (Currently looking at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-15-Amp-Corded-10-in-Compact-Table-Saw-with-Carbide-Tipped-Blade-and-Folding-X-Stand-R45171/303527823&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this Ridgid model&lt;/a&gt;, and when going through the reviews, I noticed something about calibrating the saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My last experience using a table saw for anything was a $129 model from Sears, pretty much just out of box, and it was a pretty bad experience (Even allowing for many years of rust doing any woodcraft).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would I need to do to set up/align/calibrate the saw for proper use, and is the selected saw decent for home woodworking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="77" LastActivityDate="2019-01-04T16:56:16.653" Title="Table saw setup - calibration?" Tags="|technique|table-saw|safety|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8121" CreationDate="2019-01-02T18:13:26.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a one-off, my first hunch was to lop off big chunks with a hand saw, then go at it with a spokeshave. It looks like most of it can be done reasonably along grain-lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you know the radius, make a 1/4-round sanding block (sandpaper plane) by either making a radiused router sled or cutting something on a table saw with an appropriate-sized blade (6 inch blade for 3 inch radius).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hard, physically demanding, but ambiguous, cheap (a crappy spokeshave is probably cheaper than a nice router bit) and satisfying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Radiusing a fretboard/fingerboard will give you some resources on how the sandpaper plane is made (you may even find one that suits your needs)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2689" LastActivityDate="2019-01-02T18:13:26.907" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8137" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-02T19:31:09.690" Score="4" ViewCount="447" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t0lIh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;wood planer makers mark&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone identify this? It's located inside my boyfriend's great great  grandfather's wood planer. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5959" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2019-01-10T15:53:02.860" LastActivityDate="2019-01-10T15:53:02.860" Title="Help me identify this hand plane" Tags="|hand-tools|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8138" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-03T01:52:50.027" Score="1" ViewCount="8611" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m finishing pine with amber dewaxed shellac (with a brush). I was hoping it would impart to the pieces the same color as the flakes after a few coats, but it’s still looking too yellow for my taste after 4-5 coats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can add to the next shellac coats to make it darker?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve read it’s possible to obtain very dark shellac by dissolving audio records (33s, 45s) from the 1940s, but that seems like a waste. Amber was the darkest flake I could purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fYioqm.jpg&quot; width=&quot;300&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2sOFdm.jpg&quot; width=&quot;300&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;———&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I said i would report back… Better late than never:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I purchased a dye kit for wood, and used about 6 drops of a dark brown in 500ml of a 2lbs cut of shellac. I didn’t sand the light shellac back to the wood (but i should have), so i just kept applying coats until i got to a tint that i liked. I definitely don’t recommend mixing colors of shellac —- the first two coats will make you feel like you ruined everything  —- then the colors start to blend undistinguishably at some point (sanding is always an option later).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you mix, i recommend you make enough for your project, or that you get a micropipette to reproduce your exact recipe if you ever need to refill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;voilà&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W5tgb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W5tgb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;finished pine table&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2023-03-03T05:33:27.580" LastActivityDate="2023-04-01T14:23:18.223" Title="making shellac darker / tinting shellac" Tags="|finishing|shellac|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8137" CreationDate="2019-01-03T06:58:31.263" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your boy friend is in possession of a wood plane made by the Auburn Tool Co. of Auburn, New York&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an image of the top end of its blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a semi circular arc are the words &quot;Auburn Tool Co&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In two straight lines across the bottom are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Thistle Brand&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Auburn, N.Y.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the center is a depiction of a thistle flower. (The company also used a star in the center, but if forced to choose thistle or star, thistle is an easy option.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that the company was proud of their brand and on some blades stamped the words &quot;Thistle Brand Warranted&quot; in two lines and omitted the Auburn location.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plane was likely manufactured in the late 19th century which is when the company was in its heyday and is when I suppose someone's great great grandfather might have been active (here I'm assuming something like thirty years per generation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more information you can do a web search on &quot;Auburn Tool Co&quot; and you can also find plenty of pictures of Auburn planes on EBay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2019-01-03T06:58:31.263" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8138" CreationDate="2019-01-03T07:00:50.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I’m finishing pine with amber dewaxed shellac (with a brush). I was hoping it would impart to the pieces the same color as the flakes after a few coats, but it’s still looking too yellow for my taste after 4-5 coats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FFR this is a general rule for shellac, the flakes are always going to be darker than the finish looks on a lighter wood unless it is built up very heavily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can add to the next shellac coats to make it darker?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, a darker grade of shellac or an alcohol-based stain/dye*. There are numerous woodworking stains based on shellac but also leatherworking colours will work. These can be used to tint shellac as well as to colour wood directly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth picking up more than the one colour you think you need as it often takes a bit of this and a bit of that to get just the right colour. And remember to test on scrap before committing to the workpiece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A word of caution using alcohol-based dyes: they're very concentrated so a little goes a long way!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I’ve read it’s possible to obtain very dark shellac by dissolving audio records (33s, 45s) from the 1940s, but that seems like a waste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does seem a waste but records old enough (78s) are still abundant in some places and any that are cracked, or badly chipped, are no longer playable so this is actually an ideal way to recycle them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only problem with this method is it produces black polish, and you won't generally get a pleasant colour by just adding black to a lighter colour of finish, generally you want to add a darker brown or something like that. Here, adding black might actually yield a greenish colour (sort of like olive drab)!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*You can also colour shellac with powdered pigments but this is trickier to do well and the resulting finish will mask the wood more than a dye-based colourant will, basically very much like oil-based stains and &quot;gel stain&quot; often do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-01-03T07:00:50.493" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8141" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-03T15:46:38.353" Score="1" ViewCount="373" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning a proper woodworking workbench for my shop in a Roubo style with a laminate top. The top will be 2 1/2' x 6'. As I will likely have this bench for the rest of my life, I do not mind spending a little more on the wood. So, after looking at the current availability and pricing at my local lumber yard, I narrowed my choices down to the following, ordered by my preference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Black Cherry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Red Oak&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;American Ash&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Douglas Fir&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Southern Yellow Pine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I chose these as they are available and are also not too hard so I can minimize damage to any piece I'm working on if it drops onto the top. The hardest in the list is the ash, just barely over the red oak. The softest being the fir, with the yellow pine a tad harder. The cherry is in the sweet spot, both in aesthetics and hardness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Originally, I had planned to make the whole thing out of yellow pine, as it is the cheapest. However, my local lumber yard currently has good prices on 8/4 S2S cherry, so my preference is to build the bulk of the top out of cherry and use ash for the areas where the dog holes and vises will be, plus maybe an ash strip down the middle. I don't want the bench to be too heavy so I am considering making the top 3 1/2 - 4&quot; thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm curious to hear any comments or concerns this design. Specifically, would there be any issues gluing cherry and ash together? Would it be more stable over time if the laminate top was made from a single species? Also, is 3 1/2&quot; thick enough for dog holes and holdfasts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5964" LastEditorUserId="5964" LastEditDate="2019-01-04T10:40:17.130" LastActivityDate="2019-01-04T10:40:17.130" Title="Wood selection and thickness for a laminate workbench top" Tags="|wood-selection|workbench|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8142" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8143" CreationDate="2019-01-03T16:31:05.250" Score="5" ViewCount="5009" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm doing to hobby pieces using 3/4&quot; pine ply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my faces, I've sanded with 80, then 120, then finish with 220 using random orbit sander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To the touch, it's very very smooth. I'll give it a good wipe down to get rid of all the dust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm staining with some red mahogany using a stain rag. I let it sit about 12 hours. It still feels pretty smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then will add, one coat at a time, oil based polyurethane. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When that dries, its gritty ... even after the 3-4 coat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a REALLY smooth and glossy finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I achieve this? I thought one wasn't supposed to sand after a poly coat. Do I need to sand in between poly coats?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OR ... should I be using a different finish? I'd like it to be sealed so if a drink or something is placed on it, the wood will be safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5938" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T11:07:02.617" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T11:07:02.617" Title="A beginner's question about sanding, stain, and polyurethane for a SMOOTH finish" Tags="|staining|sanding|polyurethane|random-orbit-sander|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8142" CreationDate="2019-01-03T17:06:57.427" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you considered &quot;sanding the finish&quot;? Here's the basic idea:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let the finish fully cure. This usually takes a couple of weeks. You will know it's fully cured when you sniff it and can't smell the finish. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sand with an abrasive, such as 0000 steel wool. This will create a finish smooth to the touch, but will dull the sheen. That may be what you want (if you're looking for a matte finish). If you want more glossy, follow the next steps:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get some wet/dry sandpaper in various grits (starting at 600 and up to 2000, depending on the level of gloss). Back the sandpaper with something flat and wet the finish in soapy water, then sand. Every once in a while, wipe of the wetness, dry it, and look for a consistent sheen. Keep going until everything is shining the same amount. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep going until you get the shininess you want. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finish it off with a coat of wax.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hardest part is getting a consistent sheen between coats. It's nearly impossible if your wood isn't flat, but since you're building with plywood, it should be easy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's how I used to finish all my projects, but lately I've become a fan of a much thinner finish. I use wipe-on poly (which is just full strength poly diluted with mineral spirits). I wipe it on and gradually build a finish, but stop before it gets &quot;plasticky.&quot; Finally, rub the finish with a paper bag; there's enough abrasive that it will smooth things out without ruining the sheen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is all detailed in &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/144030887X&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;flexner on finishing&lt;/a&gt;. That's probably the &quot;bible&quot; of finishing and a fantastic read.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastActivityDate="2019-01-03T17:06:57.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8144" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8145" CreationDate="2019-01-03T17:13:10.717" Score="5" ViewCount="2035" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently heard of lumber crayons that are used for marking pieces on boards, particularly rough sawn boards. I'm about to embark on a new project using rough lumber and wanted to gauge how many boards I need. The best way I can think of is to draw it out with a lumber crayon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, I'm a cheapo fella, and lazy to boot. I don't feel like going to the local Lowes Depot to buy a crayon when I have tens of thousands hiding in couch cushions, junk drawers, kids' dressers, and some even in the pipes of my house. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what's the difference? Can't I just use a crayola crayon?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2019-08-06T15:43:00.687" LastActivityDate="2019-08-06T15:43:00.687" Title="Lumber crayon versus crayola...what's the difference?" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8144" CreationDate="2019-01-03T19:01:57.343" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;One definition of a lumber crayon:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Extruded lumber crayons last up to 10 times longer than ordinary molded wax crayons. Fade-proof, water-proof, smear-proof. Won’t melt in direct sunlight. Will work on wet (green) lumber or dry wood, metal, concrete and most other surfaces (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dixonticonderoga.com/industrial/crayons/lumber-crayons&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's break this down:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can smear your standard crayon - that makes 'em fun! Score 1 for the lumber crayon.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Standard crayons will melt in high temps. (Don't leave 'em on the dashboard of your car!) Score 1 for the lumber crayon.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The lumber crayon claims to last 10x longer. &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You're stealing from your kids, who cares. They have more crayons than they need anyway.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Call this a wash...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I find it hard to believe that a standard Crayola™-type crayon isn't waterproof. Call this a wash, too.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've seen kid's drawings on refrigerators that are a decade or more old and they don't appear to have significantly faded. Who needs marks on their lumber for this long? Call it a wash at best.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No idea if a standard crayon will write on wet or green lumber. 0.5 for the lumber crayon.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I guarantee a regular crayon will write on concrete! This is a wash.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lumber crayons tend to be carpenter's-pencil shaped (though the ones that feature in the quote above are hex shaped), so they're less likely to roll away. Score 1 for the lumber crayon.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lumber crayons seem to be thicker in all dimensions than most kids' crayons, so they're less likely to break in heavy use. Score 1 for the lumber crayon.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Comes in a box of 64 colors with a built in sharpener. Score 2 for the kid's crayons!!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without doing the (admittedly) arbitrary math, I'm pretty sure that for one-off work, stealing your kid's crayons will work just fine for your project. If you were a professional lumber grader, you'd probably want the lumber crayon for its more industrial-strength qualities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2019-01-03T19:01:57.343" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8142" CreationDate="2019-01-03T20:19:17.097" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When that dries, its gritty ... even after the 3-4 coat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is likely because the first coat of finish caused some roughness to emerge&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, referred to as 'raised grain', and you didn't tackle it then. When this happens you need to sand after the first coat of finish has dried enough that it's easily sandable (about a day, sometimes less and sometimes more) to remove any of this initial roughness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; submerge any roughness of this kind if you just apply enough finish, sometimes referred to as &quot;burying the raised grain&quot;, but this may require perhaps 6-8 coats of oil-based varnish applied at full strength with a brush so it's quite a commitment in terms of amount of finish and time needed with oil-based varnishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a REALLY smooth and glossy finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could probably do with what's variously called 'perfecting the finish', see this previous Q&amp;amp;A, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1420/leveling-a-finish-finishing-the-finish&quot;&gt;Leveling a finish/finishing the finish&lt;/a&gt;. Also see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/756/how-do-i-achieve-a-piano-black-high-gloss-finish-on-wood&quot;&gt;How do I achieve a &amp;quot;piano black&amp;quot; high gloss finish on wood?&lt;/a&gt; for further related info. &lt;em&gt;Do note that generally this process requires the finish to be fully cured, so a wait of at minimum two weeks to as much as a month after the last coat of varnish is applied (some wait longer than a month, just to be on the safe side).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on just how smooth you mean, you may also need to use grain fillers or pore fillers (often the same type of thing) for a completely smooth finish on some species. Anything with coarser or more open grain can really benefit from filling, the oaks are maybe the best examples but also ash and chestnut, and to a lesser extent the various substitutes for mahogany and black walnut. You don't need to use grain fillers on any softwoods (no pores), or on tight-grained/close-grained species like maple, beech, cherry or poplar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; if you are grain filling you generally do this &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; the wood is stained, with a filler colour matched to the stained and finished colour of the wood, or a tad darker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I thought one wasn't supposed to sand after a poly coat. Do I need to sand in between poly coats?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanding after the second coat of finish is a slightly contentious issue as many finish manufacturers recommend it, or state it's necessary, and numerous woodworking gurus do it and suggest it's needed, but of course you don't sand &lt;em&gt;anything&lt;/em&gt; unless you need to sand it, and the simple truth is sometimes you don't need to sand between coats of finish..... in fact you can substitute often for sometimes here although how you apply the finish and how clean the drying conditions are (i.e. little or no airborne dust) are important factors. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2506/issue-sanding-between-coats-of-polyurethane/2509#2509&quot;&gt;Issue sanding between coats of polyurethane&lt;/a&gt; for more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;OR ... should I be using a different finish? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A smooth finish can be achieved faster, but with much more effort, using French polishing which is a traditional method where you rub on shellac. Once they see the (considerable) effort needed to apply shellac this way most people look elsewhere&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the project you could try spray lacquer, which is a very fast-drying finish like shellac. But only small projects are really practical to finish using lacquer from spraycans, anything fairly big really require a spray setup (compressor and spraygun).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'd like it to be sealed so if a drink or something is placed on it, the wood will be safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of consumer-level finishes that are widely applicable to furniture work oil-based poly is about the best for waterproofing, in addition to providing the best scratch-resistance. It's also cheap, available everywhere and is easy to apply to a high standard. These are all reasons why finishing guru Bob Flexner, among others, recommends it so highly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; The first coat of most finishes cause a slight roughness to arise on wood that has been smoothed by sanding (can be seen less after scraping, and particularly after planing} although waterbased finishes are by far the worst offenders for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Plus it's also not very waterproof and easily damaged by any alcohol, which discounts it for many furniture projects in the modern home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-01-03T20:19:17.097" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8135" CreationDate="2019-01-03T22:48:23.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do not need any special tools to set up the table saw. Use the included instructions for setting up the saw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This saw will be good for the things that you mentioned, but the blade may need to be changed. Tablesaws usually ship with a cheap utility blade. For best results, replace the blade with a sharp high-quality blade that is suited to the task you want to perform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a &lt;em&gt;job-site saw&lt;/em&gt;, and it does have some limitations. The saw has an aluminum top. The lightweight saw is easy to move and set up. This is good for portability and storage. Putting a big heavy dado blade in a lightweight saw will inevitably produce a lot of vibrations. A dado blade works best in a saw with a steel top; &lt;em&gt;a contractor table saw&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5389" LastEditorUserId="5389" LastEditDate="2019-01-04T16:56:16.653" LastActivityDate="2019-01-04T16:56:16.653" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8122" CreationDate="2019-01-05T00:01:30.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could create a jig that is a &quot;negative&quot; of the cross-section of your piece, with a stop to reference the thickness of each cut.  Something like this would probably also help when you're milling the profile as well, since otherwise you'll be running the piece referencing a very thin edge on both the table and the fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I agree with @graphus's comment that this is generally not a good idea since it will result in your finished piece being entirely short-grain.  The workflow he suggested would be much better.  To expand on it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mill a bunch of square stock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut an equal number of pieces to length for the vertical and horizontal pieces&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set up a dado stack to the same width as your stock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set a stop-block on a miter gauge or crosscut sled to locate the dado in the center of the horizontal pieces.  Set the height to be half the thickness of the stock.  Make sure you have a &quot;zero clearance&quot; surface both under and behind the workpiece to avoid tearout.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut a dado in all of the pieces&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glue and clamp them together&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2019-01-05T00:01:30.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8151" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-06T01:07:23.737" Score="1" ViewCount="654" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have a 3' X 7' Redwood live-edge slab. Sanded down to 220 grit. After doing some research I decided to coat, multiple light coats, of Danish Oil. It looks great in terms of grain/knots etc but very &quot;flat&quot; or dull. What can I do to make it shine like some you see on the internet? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5973" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-01-06T05:46:12.663" LastActivityDate="2019-06-05T07:03:45.527" Title="Redwood for bar countertop. Glossy finish questions" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8151" CreationDate="2019-01-06T06:11:23.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Danish oil&quot; type finishes are generally &lt;em&gt;penetrating finishes&lt;/em&gt;, a dilute mixture of oil and varnish (often/usually weighted towards the oil) designed to sink in and give an in-the-wood look, so will inherently give less gloss than finishes that build on the surface, i.e. film finishes such as shellac, lacquer or varnish. But assuming the wood surface is flat and very smooth you can still get a decent shine with them, with finer sanding (often beyond 220), multiple coats&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; and lots of rubbing. But to get a truly glossy surface with a finish like this you generally need to be working with finely sanded &lt;em&gt;hard&lt;/em&gt; woods&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Caution&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Penetrating oil finishes are not generally water-resistant enough for a working bar or countertop. If it's mostly for show however it could be fine, but you'll want to use coasters to be on the safe side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For proper waterproofing you need to use varnish at least, or a dedicated 'bartop finish' which are often poured on the wood and form a very thick, very glossy surface film. A little more in this previous Answer, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4355/protecting-against-water-damage/4356#4356&quot;&gt;Protecting against water damage&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more on wiping varnish, including Bob Flexner's instructions on how to make and apply it, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5891/how-to-fix-very-light-scratches-in-polyurethane-finish/5893#5893&quot;&gt;how to fix very light scratches in polyurethane finish?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Difficult to generalise how many, but let's say more than three or four and as many as six or seven. But do note results depend greatly on the &quot;Danish oil&quot;, they can and do vary from make to make with some being thinned less and containing more varnish and these are the ones that will give a superior gloss with fewer coats, more varnish = better gloss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Harder woods generally give a superior gloss without much effort compared to softer woods. You can see this effect in the flesh any time you're working with pine that has knots in it, by noticing how the knots (which are usually very dense and hard) easily end up glossier than the surrounding normal wood...... sometimes before any finish has even been applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-01-06T06:11:23.967" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8153" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8155" CreationDate="2019-01-06T14:58:16.833" Score="1" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why do we use slats to make outside swing shutters and not plain boards ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, is there any reason those slats always have chamfers ? &#xA;Why not plain flat shutters without those vertical grooves ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PiXm5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PiXm5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5975" LastEditorUserId="5975" LastEditDate="2019-01-07T08:15:49.920" LastActivityDate="2019-01-07T17:39:59.453" Title="Why do we use slats to make outside swing shutters?" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8153" CreationDate="2019-01-06T17:38:22.310" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason that traditionally shutters had slats was for ventilation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2019-01-06T17:38:22.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8153" CreationDate="2019-01-07T13:41:24.833" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you are asking &quot;why are shutters made of multiple pieces of wood rather than a single board&quot;.  That's easy - very wide boards are &lt;em&gt;expensive&lt;/em&gt;.  It's much cheaper to buy five 100mm boards and joint them together than it is to buy a single 500mm board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason the boards are chamfered (or rounded over) is that it is very hard to joint together two boards so that there is no noticeable line at the joint - you need an accuracy of at least 100µm, and preferably towards 10µm.  On the other hand, if you put in a small deliberate chamfer, you can get away with an accuracy of ½mm (500µm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1646" LastActivityDate="2019-01-07T13:41:24.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8153" CreationDate="2019-01-07T17:39:59.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The boards are probably tongue and grove.  This allows easier fit ups and handles expansion and contraction without showing gaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2019-01-07T17:39:59.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8158" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-07T18:50:11.930" Score="3" ViewCount="638" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to make a hanging shelf/sculpture out of a bunch of individual wooden hexagon containers. Each hexagon is about 3&quot; across the opening, the pieces they're made of are 1/4&quot; thick, and they are some sort of lightweight balsa/pine wood. I don't have a staple gun that would fit into the containers to attach them together and any staple would need to be 1/2&quot; long or less. Is wood glue going to be enough to withstand the pull/weight of the hexagons on each other while they're hanging on a wall? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(they are sitting together in the formation I want in the photo, but not attached yet)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5AEq8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5AEq8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5982" LastActivityDate="2019-01-07T19:04:52.420" Title="How do I attach these wooden hexagons together?" Tags="|joinery|wood|glue|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8158" CreationDate="2019-01-07T18:59:08.427" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wood glue should be fine here, assuming the pieces are unfinished.  In fact, in such thin material I think that wood glue would actually be stronger than most mechanical fasteners (anything short of bolts with washers). However, I would make sure to mount it in a way so that the places where there are only one connection don't get stressed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More specifically, I would apply a thin coating of wood glue (i.e. titebond 3) to both faces to be glued together, then clamp them in place with a spring clamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to consider would be to make a backer board in the overall shape of your piece and attach each hexagon to that board in addition to attaching them to each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2019-01-07T19:04:52.420" LastActivityDate="2019-01-07T19:04:52.420" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1061" CreationDate="2019-01-07T19:41:07.597" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I prefer a higher blade setting.  I actually think it is safer in a number of ways, but having the blade plainly visible strikes me as much more likely to avoid inadvertent contact with the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps more important is making sure that the saw is properly set up.  If the blade and fence are exactly parallel, the chances of kickback (except with stock that tends to &quot;close&quot; behind the cut due to stresses in the wood) are minimal or non-existent.  I have had a couple of kickbacks, one hit me and hurt a lot, the other shot out the back of the saw and left a notable indentation in the wall behind me.  Both were because the space between the blade and the fence was ever so slightly smaller at the back of the blade than at the front.  Proper setup of the saw is important not only for safety, but for quality of results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Techniques also matter.  Push sticks are a must for any cut less than 2&quot; wide.  Also, while it can be a bit awkward, keeping your whole body to the left of the blade will mean that if piece being cut kicks back, it kicks back into something besides you.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5983" LastActivityDate="2019-01-07T19:41:07.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8161" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-07T21:01:34.867" Score="2" ViewCount="341" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm preparing to build a cyclorama (or cy wall), and I'm considering using MDF for the visible walls, as it's a lot of surface and MDF comes in cheap 3-4mm boards that will bend easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Project is 14 m2 (150 ft2) with 3 m (9 feet 10 7/64 inches) high walls, and the curve radius is 75 cm (30 inches).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cyclorama has curved walls, it must be painted with special paint, and the seams and screw holes must be invisible (covered with plaster and sanded down), creating the illusion of an infinite wall with minimum shadow reflection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering the MDF properties, can I expect to be able to hold both form (no warping) and unified appearance after primed and painted?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rc74x.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rc74x.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5985" LastEditorUserId="5985" LastEditDate="2019-01-08T09:49:20.847" LastActivityDate="2019-01-08T09:49:20.847" Title="Is MDF adequate for a cyclorama build?" Tags="|mdf|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8162" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-09T03:15:10.140" Score="4" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been making laser-cut objects out of 1/8&quot; birch plywood using a variety of different joints (mostly &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.startwoodworking.com/post/finger-joint-basics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;finger&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lap_joint&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;lap&lt;/a&gt; joints).  When a joint turns out a little too tight, I can sand it lightly to get it to fit together properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I treat a joint to make it fit just a little tighter, &lt;em&gt;without&lt;/em&gt; fixing it permanently together?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wildly speculating, I'm guessing paint, wax, some kind of glue that doesn't bond too well, mud...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5992" LastActivityDate="2019-01-09T11:43:13.750" Title="What can you put on a joint to make it just a little tighter?" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8162" CreationDate="2019-01-09T08:38:41.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;without&lt;/em&gt; fixing it permanently together?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the real challenge here as the ideal conventional fix for many loose joints forms part of the final assembly process where the pieces are being glued together. One fix that is a separate operation, glueing on thin slips of wood to fatten fingers/tenons/dovetails may be too fiddly to be practical in material this thin — I'm visualising the fingers in 1/8&quot; ply as being numerous and small. Plus you need a hand plane and source wood to make the packing material yourself since commercial veneers are almost certain to be too thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, since you've clarified in the Comments that the items don't need to be disassembled often and thinking outside the box, I think a possible solution would be to use &lt;strong&gt;hot-melt glue&lt;/strong&gt;. Hot-melt glue sticks wood together surprisingly strongly but yet is easily reversible using heat of course, and even if not fully meltable at low temps a hairdryer will usually prove sufficient to get it to weaken its hold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition hot-melt glue can easily be dispensed in various ways to tack adjacent surfaces together, in a manner akin to welding. This isn't normally how conventional woodwork would be fixed* and in this glue the joint formed wouldn't be particularly strong, but it might be sufficient for the type of things you're building. So you could for example assemble anything with finger-jointed corners and then apply dots of glue, or a continuous bead, along the inside corner. Lap joints could be glued conventionally, then heated through with an iron when they need to come apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option might be to actually glue the joints the normal way, but using a reversible adhesive. &lt;strong&gt;Hide glue&lt;/strong&gt; (the OG hot glue although room-temperature versions can be made or bought) is probably perfect for this since with heat and moisture joints can be separated at any point in the future. But the moist heat needed does pose a risk of warping the thin ply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Although something like this is done in epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-01-09T08:38:41.137" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8162" CreationDate="2019-01-09T10:09:51.813" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Wildly speculating, I'm guessing paint, wax, some kind of glue that doesn't bond too well, mud..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; pretty wild. Wax would probably make it functionally looser.  Paint has a nasty habit of welding to other contact surfaces. Wood filler might give you a functionally tighter joint (and allow you to tune it) but it will stop you gluing that surface. Many fillers will deform under pressure of a stressed joint too, though probably at an acceptable level in a finger joint where the load and direction is limited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tacky glues and hot glue are okay but again, they have functional stress issues when used as a filler.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Again, that might be acceptable in your specific joints. My main problem with them is they're visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One option you may not have considered is —and I expect this to attract the full wrath of the WW.SE Gods— something like &lt;strong&gt;physical fasteners&lt;/strong&gt;. An internal steel brace. A careful screw through the underside of a lap. They don't have to be metal. Even (lower grade) antique furniture  has its share of wedges and pin dowel to hold things in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some great options you can borrow from modern flat-pack designs to really pull and hold two pieces together. They're usually designed for glueless butt joints so adding in the strength from your existing joint leaves you with something that should survive well and be reversible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3990" LastActivityDate="2019-01-09T10:09:51.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8162" CreationDate="2019-01-09T11:43:13.750" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might try wood veneer in the joint or even paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2019-01-09T11:43:13.750" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8166" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8169" CreationDate="2019-01-09T12:02:33.817" Score="1" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’d like to cut this with a CNC machine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/llqO0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/llqO0.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will slot into another piece. As you can’t really create internal 90 degree angles with CNC the other piece has 10mm fillets as does this piece  - but it occurred to me that also the blue lines I’ve highlighted might arguably need filleting also, is that correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1002" LastActivityDate="2019-01-09T17:04:06.483" Title="Advice on narrow CNC angles" Tags="|router-bit|milling|cnc|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2042" CreationDate="2019-01-09T14:55:03.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The speed of the lathe is important for a couple reasons. Safety of course, but also the smoothness of the bowl gouge cut. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are charts for recommended speeds but there's an easier way. The speed of the lathe, when turning bowls, should be turned up to the point where vibration begins and then backed down until the vibration is removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a fixed speed lathe you may need to experiment with various belt settings. Generally, the lathe needs to be slowest when you first start a bowl blank as it will usually be a bit unbalanced. Once the bowl shape is formed, the speed can be safely increased. I don't turn a bowl over 1,000 rpm. regardless of size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the two rough areas on your bowl, YOU FOUND IT. THE WOOD BOWL TROUBLE ZONE!!! I'm not kidding. This has bothered me for some time and nobody talks about it. Check out this article that covers the whole thing - &lt;a href=&quot;https://turnawoodbowl.com/wood-bowl-turning-trouble-zone-dirty-little-secret/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://turnawoodbowl.com/wood-bowl-turning-trouble-zone-dirty-little-secret/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck with your bowl turning!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5993" LastActivityDate="2019-01-09T14:55:03.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7630" CreationDate="2019-01-09T15:10:20.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Saving an older grinder is great, but it might not be a good fit for the CBN wheels. The CBN wheels work best at slower speeds. The slow speed grinders operate around 1,750 RPM and only cost around $100. If you're investing in good new CBN wheels, a slow speed grinder is not a deal breaker. It's kinda like buying expensive new racing tires for an old sedan. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5993" LastActivityDate="2019-01-09T15:10:20.300" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8166" CreationDate="2019-01-09T17:04:06.483" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am assuming by CNC machine, you mean a router.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blue line section that is horizontal will be a regular 90 degree cut.  The sections of the blue line that are on the curves will have an increasing large fillet as it approaches the bottom of the cut, unless you have a 4th axis on your CNC to rotate the item.  The cuts on the curves will also not be smooth without a 4th axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2019-01-09T17:04:06.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8171" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8176" CreationDate="2019-01-10T23:33:38.740" Score="7" ViewCount="301" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5RxMa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone identify this? Woodworking tool?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5999" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T09:45:15.720" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T09:45:15.720" Title="What is this hand tool with handles similar to a spokeshave? It has different selectable profiles around the edge of a disc" Tags="|wood|hand-tools|molding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8171" CreationDate="2019-01-10T23:47:40.780" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks like a beading scratch-stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beading is a decorative detail added to the edges of boards to make them less prone to damage and to hide gaps in joinery or around doors.  This tool creates them by scraping the workpiece with the metal blade.  This is not a &quot;cutting&quot; operation because the blade is held perpendicular with the workpiece.  In this case there are several different profiles that you could choose from by rotating the metal piece in the center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2019-01-10T23:47:40.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4948" CreationDate="2019-01-11T00:54:32.800" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another good idea, especially if you're making multiple cuts, is to build a jig out of plywood that has runners to fit into the mitre gauge slots on the bottom, and a square to blade raised edge on the top side to rest your boards against.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use dimensional lumber for square edge to be sure it has flat surfaces to work with. The piece of plywood needs to be wider than the board widths you want to cut, and long enough to reach across two guide rails to remain square and true when pushing long boards across the table top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can add stops if you want using a simple &quot;C&quot; clamp, but the jig needs to be long enough for your stop yo mount to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A small bridge across the leading edge at the cut will keep the two pieces of plywood (across the blade) together.  You should have a short side to provide under-support on both sides of the cut to help prevent tear-out on the back side; but it's not 100% needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QVoQk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zGscc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PEfZL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6000" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-01-17T09:02:37.790" LastActivityDate="2019-01-17T09:02:37.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8174" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8175" CreationDate="2019-01-11T05:09:36.747" Score="1" ViewCount="372" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have built a platform bed using 90%+ cedar (all but some quarter round and the legs). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan was to use raw, food grade flax / linseed oil to finish it. I like the idea of the raw oil not having chemicals added. Plus, I’ve used this on cedar shelves and love the depth of color it brings to the wood. Since this is an indoor piece and made in cedar, it doesn’t seem to me that there is a need to apply multiple coats to protect it (correct me if I’m wrong on this), so I’m not too worried about drying time - I just want to get one good coat on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My primary concern is the fact that it takes longer (days to weeks?) to oxidize than boiled linseed oil. If I put the bed on the frame before it fully oxidizes/cures, is there a risk of combustion? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m not putting the oil on the slats that the bed sits on, but it would be on the inside of the top layer of trim (about about 3/4” deep). This would be covered by the side of the bed. Thoughts??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6001" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-01-11T07:55:46.553" LastActivityDate="2019-01-11T08:51:02.713" Title="Is there danger of combustion using raw flax / linseed oil for platform bed?" Tags="|finishing|oiling|boiled-linseed-oil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8174" CreationDate="2019-01-11T08:51:02.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My primary concern is the fact that it takes longer (days to weeks?) to oxidize than boiled linseed oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weeks at least, possibly months. Indoors, if the conditions aren't ideal, it could take a year or more before the overwhelming smell of linseed oil dissipates&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I put the bed on the frame before it fully oxidizes/cures, is there a risk of combustion? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The risk of spontaneous combustion from linseed oil (and other drying oils, as well as products made from them including varnish and products like &quot;Danish oil&quot;) is from any bundled rags that are wet with them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the oil is applied to the wood and then wiped away to nothing, as it's supposed to be, the amount of oil that might come out of the wood into the bed is going to be very small indeed. Enough to cause minor oil staining at worst.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Thoughts??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you asked, you don't need to be overly concerned about the 'chemicals' added to most commercial BLOs. I won't sway you if you've made your mind up, but this is of potential value to future readers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The metallic drying agents added to most versions of BLO are no concern once the finish is on the wood and it has cured&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. The primary health risk is to the worker .....just as it is from wood dust, see next point.... and you can easily protect yourself from any contact during application by simply wearing gloves. There's no need to wear a mask of any kind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case what makes the decision not to use a finishing product because of the chemicals it contains a little asymmetrical is there &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; compounds that are of concern in the wood used. The awesome smell of red cedar is from chemical compounds. And those in red cedar &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; actually &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-allergies-and-toxicity/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a known irritant&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Only possible to generalise here, being a natural product linseed oil varies and it can be surprising just how much variation there is (the colour range alone gives an indication of this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Where they are OK even if used for surfaces that will contact food, which gives a fairly realistic idea of the actual risk they pose from incidental skin contact with wood finished with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-01-11T08:51:02.713" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8171" CreationDate="2019-01-11T12:14:31.317" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found it! - Windsor Beader Type 1 - 1885&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5999" LastActivityDate="2019-01-11T12:14:31.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8178" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-11T18:08:47.130" Score="4" ViewCount="864" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was putting sapele inlay into maple.  The inlay was proud by about an 1/8th inch so I only used packing on the underside of the clamp, figuring that any indentations on the top side would be planed out.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was mostly ok except that I had to use a couple of G clamps instead of my plastic faced F clamps in a couple of spots (ran out of clamps - does anybody ever have enough?).  The clamps were proud of the maple but there appears to have been some sort of reaction with glue squeeze-out that has caused a sort of 'ebonzing' stain from the face of the clamp, through the glue puddle and into the wood.  I hang my head in shame - I should have packed top and bottom and I promise I will NEVER take that short-cut again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have sanded most of the staining out but in a couple of patches it seems to go on forever and I am getting worried about planing or sanding deeper (bearing in mind that I don't have a planer, being a hobbyist, so must do it by hand and the maple has some pretty, but gnarly, grain that tears out as soon as you look at it).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, here's the question: is there any trick to gently de-ebonize these patches or will I have to just keep planing my otherwise finished table top?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5815" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-01-12T07:45:49.963" LastActivityDate="2019-01-13T07:46:38.677" Title="How to remove staining caused by a clamp" Tags="|finishing|clean-up|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8178" CreationDate="2019-01-11T23:36:11.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wood bleach would be my first thought, but... it could change the colour of the wood. Try it in a hidden spot first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2019-01-11T23:36:11.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8178" CreationDate="2019-01-12T08:34:40.320" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;there appears to have been some sort of reaction with glue squeeze-out that has caused a sort of 'ebonzing' stain from the face of the clamp, through the glue puddle and into the wood. I hang my head in shame - I should have packed top and bottom and I promise I will NEVER take that short-cut again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a common reaction between steel and PVA glues, causing a kind of blue-black staining. You're not the first to experience this (been there myself!) and I promise you you won't be the last so don't beat yourself up too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have sanded most of the staining out but in a couple of patches it seems to go on forever and I am getting worried about planing or sanding deeper (bearing in mind that I don't have a planer, being a hobbyist, so must do it by hand and the maple has some pretty, but gnarly grain that tears out as soon as look at it). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanding is a perfectly acceptable way of doing this, although far from my favourite, it just tends to be slowest. Staining often seems very deep when you're trying to sand it out because sanding is really quite slow. Individual plane shavings from a smoother can be the equivalent of about five minutes of sanding (!) so you get down through the wood much faster, but also in a very controlled way as you're taking off perhaps a few thousandths of an inch (less than 0.1mm) at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So, here's the question: is there any trick to gently de-ebonize these patches or will I have to just keep planing my otherwise finished table top?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IME the best way to deal with this on a flat surface &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; to plane it out. But if you have some gnarly grain to deal with this is only viable if you have your hand plane set up well enough that you won't tear out the surface&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. An alternative is scraping, which is also &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1134/what-are-the-differences-between-sanding-and-scraping/1159?r=SearchResults&amp;amp;s=1|37.1534#1159&quot;&gt;much more efficient than sanding&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bleaching it out&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Bleaching &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; work to get this out but you want to be careful which bleach you buy as there are three used in woodworking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oxalic acid is the one to get. Oxalic is the go-to for metallic stains and for removing dark water staining (which are usually from dissolved iron in the water reacting with the wood). It can be bought in readymade solutions, or as a powder and made up into a liquid with water (usually hot water)&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. See notes on using oxalic acid for further details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I suggest this is the first thing to try, because &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1ttoB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;it may remove the staining completely&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/em&gt; And if it doesn't work you then know you have no choice but to continue to remove material to try to get beneath the stain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Avoiding the problem in future&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As you've already determined, prevention is better than cure for something like this and one way to help avoid the possibility of this happening is to glue pads to the faces of all your clamps that don't have plastic shoes (and possibly also to those, in place of the plastic shoes). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;User-made clamp pads can be plastic (although glueing many plastics to metal can be difficult), wood, ply or hardboard. I've even seen leather used but IME there are some problems with this that make it less than ideal and I wouldn't recommend it for clamps that will be used in glue-ups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some woodworkers use a form of double-sided tape to adhere pads to their clamps but on many clamps I've tried this on I've gotten creep, with the pads shifting off to one side when tightened very hard or slowly over time when the clamp has been left under pressure. Some clamp types will be much less prone to this but I always glue mine on now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scrape, file or sand away any paint from the metal so that the glue isn't bonding wood to paint but to the metal itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though PVA glue doesn't bond particularly well to metal you can use your standard white or yellow glue for this and the pads will be quite durable. A sharp knock (e.g. when you drop a clamp on the floor) can pop a pad free but it only takes a moment to glue one back on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use superglue (cyanoacrylate/CA) but most superglues are brittle and you can have the same problem if a clamp receives a blow. Quick and easy option though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to make your clamp pads much more permanent use 5-minute epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Tips on how to achieve this can be found in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/7702/mouth-of-a-plane/7710#7710&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;. Be sure to click on the follow-on link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Hot water makes a more saturated solution and like all chemical reactions it works more quickly at higher temperatures, so you get a two-fold benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Notes on using oxalic acid&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;More than one application of oxalic may be needed for particularly dark stains. After three applications (letting the wood dry between each coat) if you're not getting any further improvement I think you can safely assume it has done all it can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule of thumb is you treat the entire surface, not try to spot-treat the stain only (although you can concentrate effort directly on the stain) The original American Woodworker article the above before-and-after pic was taken from (issue #144, link &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/repair-a-water-damaged-finish/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; on the Pop Woodworking site) covers this, and it's also mentioned in &lt;a href=&quot;https://generalfinishes.com/faq/how-do-i-remove-water-stains-or-discoloration-staining-raw-wood&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this brief page&lt;/a&gt; on the General Finishes site. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use appropriate caution&lt;/strong&gt; Oxalic acid is a little toxic so should be used with care, especially when it's in the form of a dry powder where it can become airborne and can get in your eyes or be inhaled through the nose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cleanup&lt;/strong&gt; After bleaching the surface must be left to dry thoroughly, and some oxalic acid will remain on the surface of the wood as a dry powdery haze. Don't sand this off, it should be rinsed away. Some old guides (and a few modern ones!) talk about neutralising the residue with vinegar but that's nonsense since vinegar is also an acid. You just need to use water, and plenty of it. If the item can't be held under a running tap rinse it at least three times, with fresh water each time. Then dry off the surface with clean cloth or paper towels and leave the piece to dry at least overnight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-01-13T07:46:38.677" LastActivityDate="2019-01-13T07:46:38.677" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="573" CreationDate="2019-01-12T16:49:06.737" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;key to work with pure tung oil is mix it with other oils. for example you can mix it with orange oil (1/10 ratio). it will smell better, soak faster (depends on wood) and dry much faster (3days max.) from my experience..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6005" LastActivityDate="2019-01-12T16:49:06.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8182" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-12T17:00:42.500" Score="3" ViewCount="690" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make bamboo bike like Craig Calfee and so many others have made, but if possible, I would rather not use epoxy, which is not biodegradable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bamboo bike has a frame made of bamboo, held together at joints by hemp-epoxy (or fiberglass-epoxy / carbon fiber-epoxy) composite lay up by hand. Is there any natural/DIY alternative to epoxy which can be used with hemp fibers in a similar fashion to hold the joints strongly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to use a truly biodegradable polymer, even if synthetic. Even better if it can be IDY homemade concoction. What did woodworkers use other than hide glue before PVA and epoxy became so prevalent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a plant based or synthetic non-animal sourced biodegradable polymer. Isn't there something one can make from plant proteins similar to hide glue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6006" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2021-09-07T13:45:48.357" LastActivityDate="2021-10-30T20:27:47.960" Title="Is there a DIY glue or epoxy alternative strong enough to hold bamboo bicycle frame joints?" Tags="|glue|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8182" CreationDate="2019-01-12T19:48:57.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there any natural/diy alternative to epoxy which can be used with hemp fibers in a similar fashion to hold the joints strongly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might like to look into what I think is generically called bio-epoxy. The only one I'm familiar with (from reading about it some years ago) is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ecopoxy.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;EcoPoxy&lt;/a&gt;, but a quick Google search reveals there are now others. These are &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; all-natural products, but they may be the closest you can get with the strength you require.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Caveat emptor&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I have no idea how seriously we can take the claims of these products being 'natural' or 'green', but I would recommend skepticism. There are already plenty of distortions, exaggerations and even outright lies in the conventional adhesives and coatings industry (because lack of regulatory control allows them) and I'd expect at least as much if not more in this sub-sector! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-01-12T19:48:57.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8184" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8185" CreationDate="2019-01-14T08:35:19.977" Score="1" ViewCount="355" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a wooden frame like this with some LEDs powered by a battery.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RiwE8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RiwE8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I'm looking for a way to create a hole (4mm*4mm*80mm) to hide the wires from battery to LED on the back.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything, including the name of the tool to do that would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS. Yes, I'm a rookie&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5902" LastActivityDate="2019-01-16T02:36:50.150" Title="Make room for wires in wooden block" Tags="|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8184" CreationDate="2019-01-14T13:30:10.727" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you want a groove into which you place the wires. These are probably the most common ways to do it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Glue it up - instead of removing material (usually harder for novice), just build the frame piece out of 3 pieces, with two smaller pieces separated and creating a channel on the back side. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Table saw - this is a ripping operation. You can use either a dado set or multiple passes with a regular blade. This is technically possible with a handheld circular saw, but to do it you'll need to mill out the groove before you cut the frame member off a wider piece of lumber.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Router or router table. Similar to table saw operation. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Using hand tools - plow plane. Easier to do if you create the groove before sawing off the frame member from the wider piece of lumber. You can do it with a router plane, but it will be a long arduous process. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2019-01-14T13:30:10.727" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8186" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-15T02:00:16.823" Score="1" ViewCount="216" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to build a dining table out of two pieces of Jatoba wood (Hymenaea courbaril) which has:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Density -  57 lbs/ft3 (910 kg/m3)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Hardness - 2,690 lbf (11,950 N)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;   info taken from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wood-database.com/jatoba/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.wood-database.com/jatoba/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The boards have 495 x 1810mm being 61mm thick, which makes them about 40Kg each. They are in a pretty unrefined state, and I'm trying to make two nice pieces of 1500 x 450 x 55mm hardwood to be glued together with dowels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is I don't really have a workbench that can handle boards like that, and as of now I only have a Number 4 Stanley hand plane and an orbital sander if that could even help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was able to use two small tables laying sideways to make the wood high enough so I could hand plane in a comfortable position. The thing is I'm not having any success using my plane so far trying to plane in the direction of the grain, the tool is brand new and I have sharpened it to a pretty good state IMO in a 25-degree angle but I can't get consistent chips, only really fine dust like pieces that get stuck in my plane after a few passes, and they are kind of hard to remove without a tool carefully pushing them out.&#xA;I hope it is possible to see in the photos what is happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XbW6j.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XbW6j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PV0tj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PV0tj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm building a sharpening jig to get close to a perfect 25° with 30° bevel blade to maybe improve my situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips for working or doing this on the ground?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand I'm trying to do a difficult thing with too few resources, but I'm just impatient for my University CNC Router to be available again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One solution I saw was to buy a router and make a sled to plane the wood, but I was trying to avoid buying a new electric tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5957" LastActivityDate="2021-01-11T04:12:31.253" Title="Tips and Ideas for Hand Planing a 11,950 N board keeping it simple" Tags="|hand-tools|hand-planing|hardwood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8187" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8188" CreationDate="2019-01-15T10:22:04.230" Score="0" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remember a wooden pot-coaster: one side had lateral grooves milled and the other side had the same grooves, but in orthogonal direction. The grooves were deep enough that the grooves met in the middle, producing a matrix of rectangular through holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this pattern have a name?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6008" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-01-15T14:43:42.253" LastActivityDate="2019-01-15T14:51:21.423" Title="What is the name of that milling technique" Tags="|milling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8187" CreationDate="2019-01-15T14:51:21.423" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=wood%20%22waffle%22%20routing&amp;amp;tbm=isch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Waffle&lt;/a&gt; is how I've commonly heard this pattern referred to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3759" LastActivityDate="2019-01-15T14:51:21.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8189" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-15T15:21:24.483" Score="0" ViewCount="1237" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've sharpened an old blade from a smoothing plane by hand, using sandpaper and no jig. It was very dull, so I'm not sure the angle was ok before. Now I'm getting these shavings that curl up too fast and clog the plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could this be caused by a wrong angle when sharpening or is this probably caused by something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mjBSl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shaving from my plane&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5226" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2019-01-15T21:38:00.520" LastActivityDate="2019-01-15T21:38:00.520" Title="How to prevent plane from clogging?" Tags="|sharpening|plane|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8190" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8191" CreationDate="2019-01-15T19:57:12.360" Score="4" ViewCount="7096" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to cut a miter along the width of a wide board using hand tools. I've searched online and have not found any resources so maybe I'm using incorrect terminology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say I have a board that is 12 inches wide and I want to make a mitre cut along the end to join it to another 12 inch board. How can I cut this with a hand saw? My miter saw can only cut to about a 2 inch depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use hand tools and prefer Japanese saws. My goal is to make a cabinet with waterfall joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some photos that hopefully help illustrate what I'm getting after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/McJet.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/McJet.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;line to cut along&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DVMUq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DVMUq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;line to cut along 3/4 view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6011" LastActivityDate="2020-03-30T21:07:40.967" Title="How to make a mitre cut along the width of a board with hand tools" Tags="|hand-tools|hand-saw|miter-joint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8190" CreationDate="2019-01-15T21:36:37.787" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can freehand the cut with a hand saw.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start at one corner, carefully lining up the saw with your 45° angle mark, then slowly work into the cut. You'll want to cut primarily along the edge of the board to establish the angle, but also into the face so you're moving along the face while you establish the angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To help get the angle correct, you can use a speed square (or other block with an accurate 45°) to rest the blade of the saw against to get started. You can move the speed square along the face of the wood as you cut to maintain the angle if you find that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you're cutting stay a little proud of the line so that you can finish the cut with sandpaper to get precisely to your measurement if you need it to be that accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can plane it.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A simple block plane should make pretty quick work of this soft pine. An advantage of the plane is that you don't need to be precisely on a 45° angle until you're cleaning up and finishing the cut. If your hand wobbles a bit, it won't matter as long as you don't go so far that you're dipping past your &quot;Cut Here&quot; line on the face or past the corner on the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can sand it.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It'll be slow and tedious and you'll go through a lot of sandpaper, but you'll get there in the end. It has a similar advantage to the plane in that your angle doesn't have to be precise until you're reaching a finished edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2019-01-15T21:36:37.787" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8184" CreationDate="2019-01-16T02:36:50.150" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drill out the ends cut out between with a sharp chisel or gouge&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2019-01-16T02:36:50.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6416" CreationDate="2019-01-17T16:44:12.283" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this post is old, but I wanted to mention for anyone that stumbles upon it, that for 100% pure tung oil, you DO want to thin it with citrus solvent.  100% pure tung oil doesn't penetrate well on it's own and is very different than most other oils that don't need to be thinned.  Every single company that sells 100% pure tung oil (not tung oil varnish) and wood working forums recommend thinning it to 50/50 because it greatly increases it's ability to penetrate into the wood.  So while it might take you longer maybe because you are using less oil, in the end it's far better because without the citrus solvent (or mineral spirits if food safe doesn't matter) you will get far less penetration into the wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6015" LastActivityDate="2019-01-17T16:44:12.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7010" CreationDate="2019-01-17T16:49:42.843" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will eventually dry and soak in. Raw linseed not boiled is what the Military used to dip stocks in. It is great at keeping wood from drying out and cracking. They then turned to Raw Tung oil, which smells kinda like peanuts and is waterproof. Both take forever to dry. Both will dry in a week if wood is very dry( by oxidation) I’ve seen wood soak it up but then slow down. Linseed will darken wood a good bit, Tung oil just barely. Linseed can mold Tung oil no. Sometimes after thoroughly dry I put Tung oil finish or tru-oil on top to seal the finish. Or boiled linseed, it has chemical dryers. Raw linseed and Tung oil are non toxic and can be applied by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6016" LastActivityDate="2019-01-17T16:49:42.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8195" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8196" CreationDate="2019-01-18T12:27:21.863" Score="3" ViewCount="376" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to start with a box-shaped piece of hardwood and make a (probably cylindrical) recess in it that &lt;em&gt;nearly&lt;/em&gt; traverses the wood, leaving only a very, very thin, uniform layer of wood on the far side.  Like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YIbw0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YIbw0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thickness of the thinnest part should be similar to veneers.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this achievable with a forstner bit?  If so what type?  Any special setup?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative: leaving a thicker floor in the recess then planing from the opposite side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside: the goal is, roughly, to make an electrical switchplate cover that has an area where the wood is thin enough to be translucent, such that LEDs could shine through, similar to the following (but maybe with only a single digit of &amp;lt;1in height).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9bDDj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9bDDj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6018" LastActivityDate="2019-01-18T14:28:09.673" Title="Create a recess that nearly traverses the wood" Tags="|technique|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8195" CreationDate="2019-01-18T14:28:09.673" Score="6" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This was almost certainly done by creating a through hole and then gluing veneer over it. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A forstner bit won't work - the edges and lead point make for a not perfectly flat bottomed hole.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to go with option 1, in a home shop I would use a router/router table to get close to the finished depth, then plane away at the front surface to get to finished thickness. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2019-01-18T14:28:09.673" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8197" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8211" CreationDate="2019-01-18T14:57:03.877" Score="1" ViewCount="1587" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm designing a table saw extension for my DeWalt DW745. I've searched for plans and most of them add an out-feed extension to the table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to cut some dadoes and rabbets in wide boards (&gt;40cm), but set at 2cm high (just a random small height), my table saw only has about 17cm of clearance between the blade and the beginning of the table, so it gets kind of clumsy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I'd like to use a crosscut sled with said wide boards, but I'm not sure something so big would work without an in-feed extension. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware that adding in-feed extension would make it difficult for me to access the controls of the machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, would just adding a side extension help me with these problems? Why is it so uncommon to have in-feed extension, at least I haven't seen a single plan which uses it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5226" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-01-22T08:22:38.747" LastActivityDate="2019-01-22T08:40:03.100" Title="Is an in-feed extension for a table saw useful?" Tags="|table-saw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8198" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8199" CreationDate="2019-01-18T15:07:33.130" Score="0" ViewCount="1385" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old ax head that I soaked in vinegar and salt to remove the outer layers of rust.  That worked just fine, but after I removed all of the rust and let it sit while I shopped for a new handle.  After about a week there is a new thin layer of rust that came back.  I live in Florida so tools rust quite often.  Should I put mineral oil or some other kind of oil on there?  I've also read that butchers wax can help as well.  Any advice would be greatly appreciated.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6012" LastActivityDate="2019-01-22T21:18:58.487" Title="Should I put mineral oil or wax on an axe head to stop it from rusting?" Tags="|tool-maintenance|tool-repair|rust|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2019-01-27T03:36:41.920" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8198" CreationDate="2019-01-18T15:55:48.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used water displacers like WD-40 (or Jig-A-Loo -- whatever is on sale) to coat saws and such (I'm in SW Ontario, parts of which are basically the middle of a swamp in the summer) with good results. Just a thin coat and rub with a cloth. For longer term storage I've been known to wrap tools in home-made &quot;oil cloth&quot; which is basically a cotton t-shirt thinly coated with WD-40.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My fine woodworking tools (i.e., those tools that might stain some of the prettier projects if I coated them in any oil) are stored in a separate toolbox with handfuls of those silica gel pouches I've saved over the years. You can buy silica gel, of course, but I'm too cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never used it, but there is at least one Floridian Youtuber who uses &quot;Evapo-Rust&quot; sealants after refurbishing metal tools. Now, Evapo-Rust, as a brand, is very keen on getting their products seen on Youtube, so a lot of those sightings are because they aggressively sponsor YT channels. So, your kilometerage may vary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-01-18T16:07:48.337" LastActivityDate="2019-01-18T16:07:48.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8198" CreationDate="2019-01-18T21:09:16.630" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are less than 20 miles from any salt water ,rust protection is a challenge. Not to be repetitive but oil, any oil, applied repeatedly as needed will give good protection. Very long ago , refineries used wax on storage tanks; Not because it is better than oil but because they had it as a byproduct. Next time you clean off rust try &quot;navel jelly&quot; , aka - conversion coating . Phosphoric acid removes oxide and leaves a slightly protective coating of iron phosphate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3966" LastActivityDate="2019-01-18T21:09:16.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8201" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-18T21:15:03.040" Score="5" ViewCount="1347" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a handplane from an antique store about two years ago and have struggled, off and on, to get it to work. I have flattened the sole, sharpened the blade (enough to pass the &quot;shave the arm&quot; test), derusted things, and filed the edges/corners off. The thing looks like a real beauty, but it just won't make a cut without gouging the wood. I start planing and it doesn't cut, so I make a tiny adjustment. Still no cut, so I bring the blade forward just a hair. Still not cut....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/siUbV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/siUbV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This process continues until I make a miniscule cut, then KAZAMO! The thing slams right into the wood and stops the hand plane in its tracks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anybody had this experience? Any ideas how to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I can think of is that there's something wrong with the frog. I did notice that, without the lever cap, the iron rocks forward and back (forward = toward the sole, back = toward the handle). But once I cinch the lever cap, the wobble's gone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xkJDX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xkJDX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what's the deal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;It was at this point in my post, I decided to try something and that fixed the problem. I thought about leaving my solution to myself, but figured someone else might have the same issue. See below. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastActivityDate="2020-04-11T14:44:07.217" Title="Hand plane gouging wood even with fine adjustments" Tags="|plane|hand-planing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8201" CreationDate="2019-01-18T21:15:03.040" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I mentioned in my question, I found the solution just as I was about to post the answer. I first read @Graphus's answer to someone's question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5460/hand-plane-controls-bevel-down/5462#5462&quot;&gt;hand plane controls (bevel down)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had always tried to have a tiny mouth opening to reduce tear out, but then I read in Graphus's post that if the chip breaker is close to the plane iron, you don't have to worry about tear out. Then Graphus said, &quot;You can set the frog back so that it lines up with the mouth, giving full support for the iron along its length and down to as near to the cutting edge as the design of these planes allows.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided that perhaps what was happening was that the plane iron wasn't very well supported by the frog, so I moved the frog back so that it was aligned with the angle of the mouth opening. I then had full contact along almost the entire length of the plane iron without any sort of rocking. I then started taking the most beautiful, wispy shavings a man could ask for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, thanks Graphus for the indirect answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps some future frustrated woodworker who also has kept a non-functional plane in their garage for years on end. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastActivityDate="2019-01-18T21:15:03.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8203" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8206" CreationDate="2019-01-19T13:23:09.683" Score="0" ViewCount="359" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's the conundrum: I have 5 3.6 meter boards I'm trying to make a long worktop bench out of and I want to glue them up side by side. This is rough construction grade spruce with loads of knots. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tools I have to hand are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a cheap wood router with a set of bits&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a small hand held belt sander&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a no.5 jack plane&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a smoothing plane&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been trying for weeks to joint the edges so they will but up perfectly against one another and I'm failing miserably. I end up chasing my tail all the time... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried putting them side by side and planing them together but that didn't work because of course they're not straight along the length of them so the valleys and hills just exacerbated the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've watched loads of how to square stock with hand tools but all require a jointer plane. My worry is if I buy a jointer plane it still will not end up straight along since these boards are just so long... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I loath to chop them in half but I'm seriously considering it at this point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5498" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2019-01-24T21:21:47.380" LastActivityDate="2019-01-24T21:21:47.380" Title="How to Joint a board" Tags="|glue|tabletop|jointer|butt-joint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2019-01-27T03:41:25.953" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8204" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8205" CreationDate="2019-01-19T18:17:57.020" Score="2" ViewCount="385" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are some good solutions for fixing my wooden stairs that have giant holes in them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to recondition the stairs and have a carpet runway up the stairs but came across these holes that are for the alarm system, but I am able to redirect these. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be worth mentioning, the stairs are approx 90 years old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is a picture of what the problem is (the holes are highlighted in yellow):-&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q8Hyb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q8Hyb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6021" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-01-19T18:54:39.113" LastActivityDate="2019-01-19T19:28:06.920" Title="Options for filling drill holes" Tags="|glue|sanding|filler|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8204" CreationDate="2019-01-19T19:28:06.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The exact species isn't critical but from the centre of the one stair visible it's common softwood, possibly &quot;European redwood&quot; which is another name for Scots pine, &lt;em&gt;pinus silvestris&lt;/em&gt;. The dark colour isn't the natural colour of the wood, it's from wood stain or due to age and wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can fill holes in just about any wood in three standard ways, using:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;commercial wood fillers (of which there are a few types, including oil-based, waterbased and epoxy);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;homemade wood fillers, which are generally composed of wood dust (sanding dust or fine sawdust) mixed with some adhesive, with PVAs (both white and yellow) and epoxy being the most common glue choices; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a solid-wood patch, sometimes referred to as a &quot;Dutchman&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can read a little more on homemade wood fillers in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3807/large-hole-filler-products-what-is-available/3809?r=SearchResults&amp;amp;s=4|23.6430#3809&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt; but given the size and location of the holes I think a commercial wood filler will work fine for you here and will certainly prove to be the easiest option for you if you're not a woodworker. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With most commercial fillers you slightly over-fill the hole to account for a small amount of shrinkage during drying, then you sand flush after the fills have hardened. With epoxy fillers there's no shrinkage so you can make the fill completely flush while the putty is still workable, saving having to sand*.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your fills &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; be noticeable unless you paint over the area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*This is good as epoxy fillers can sometimes set very hard indeed and are difficult to sand flush as the surrounding softer material tends to sand away more easily, leaving the epoxy sitting a little high unless you're very careful (it's often better to file, plane or scrape epoxy fills flush, where possible).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-01-19T19:28:06.920" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8203" CreationDate="2019-01-20T18:45:02.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question is, just exactly what is included in your &quot;router with a set of bits&quot;. If you have a bit which is longer than your boards are thick, you can use this to do the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start by getting a guide board which is longer than your bench boards. It should be as straight as possible, but don't worry about small deviations. Using a couple of clamps, tie it to one board, far enough away from the edge that your router can run along the board and shave off a small amount the entire length of the cut. Do this with the second board approximately parallel to the first, but with a gap between the two large enough that the bit will only contact the first board. This will provide good support for both sides of the router base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, clamp the second board in place with a gap between the two boards just a hair less than the diameter of the bit. Now run the router back the other way and clean up the second board edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two boards will now be perfectly matched. Even if the new edges are not perfectly straight (that will depend on the straightness of your guide board), the two faces will align exactly. Even if the router tilted slightly during the cuts, the two faces should align. Go ahead and glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="463" LastActivityDate="2019-01-20T18:45:02.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8197" CreationDate="2019-01-20T21:15:07.877" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a saw like yours. I don't have an in feed extension, but when cutting wide sheet goods I often use an extension on the fence. I clamp an old four foot level to the face of the fence (any thing long and straight with parrallel sides would work). The level extends about a foot past the fence on the in feed side. This let's me register a lot more of the material against the fence and eliminates any horizontal play. Then I just have to worry about keeping the material level. &#xA;I've thought about putting some kind of lip on the extension to support the material, but I haven't really needed it yet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6024" LastActivityDate="2019-01-20T21:15:07.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8208" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8209" CreationDate="2019-01-21T16:20:54.240" Score="2" ViewCount="3284" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am an amateur, building a set of kid’s beds.  I have prepared side rails, headboard and footboard; I am ready to attach everything.  I intend simple end-to-face butt joints with glue and screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure 1. what size screws to use and 2. whether to screw or glue first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the wood is 2cm × 4cm pine.  The primary tools I have are a borrowed miter saw, clamps, and a drill.  I drilled holes in the headboard already.  I also (using a regular 10mm bit) cut out countersink for the screw head because in my tests it was hard to get the large heads anywhere near flush and I don’t want to overtension the screws going into the endgrain.  If I can cover the screws afterwards, all the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Screw size&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My screw options—all in mm—are 5×60, 5×70, 6×60, and 6×80.  (These are outer diameters, for 5mm screws I would drill a 4mm pilot hole and for 6mm a 5mm pilot.)  I like the idea of beefier, longer screws for strength, but in my tests I found drilling and driving them a bit more challenging.  As shown in the close-up I plan to put two at each joint, and the bed doesn’t need to support more than about 100kg.  Are the 5×60 screws sufficient?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Screw first or glue first?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’d like to screw first because I think preparing the pilot holes would be much easier (especially if I use the larger screws) and I could use the screws to hold the pieces together when the glue dries.  As pictured, I have everything clamped into place (no glue yet), so it seems like I could start the pilot holes, disassemble, finish the pilot holes, apply the glue, put the screws in, clamp everything, and tighten the screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, my experience from a few tests is that even when starting a pilot hole with clamped pieces, it’s hard to get the joint lined up nicely, so  my feeling is I may be better off gluing first and only later drilling the pilot holes and putting in the screws.  The disadvantages of that approach are that I can’t use the screws to apply extra pressure while the glue sets and that I lose 2cm of pilot hole depth due to the thickness of the headboard.  (my 4mm bit is only 72mm long)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any additional advice would be appreciated, but given the constraints of time and location, I am not in a position to use any more advanced tools or materials.  (I could easily use small plastic or metal corner brackets if that were preferable, although my planned approach seems more elegant to me.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dwx9e.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dwx9e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;headboard and side rails&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wgbpf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wgbpf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;holes prepared in headboard&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a7bRS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a7bRS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;screw choices&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6023" LastEditorUserId="6023" LastEditDate="2019-01-21T17:22:10.157" LastActivityDate="2019-01-21T20:36:14.973" Title="advice for glue-and-screw butt joint" Tags="|joinery|technique|glue|screws|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="17" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8208" CreationDate="2019-01-21T20:36:14.973" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wood screws threaded into end grain only have about 1/2 the strength they would have screwed into face or edge grain.  The metal inserts avoid this by using a strong adhesive to bond the metal sleeve to the wood, then using the mechanical strength of the fastener to prevent pullout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One fix at this point would be to drill a hole through the rail where the screw is going into the end grain and fill the hole with a glued in dowel.  This will provide some edge grain for the screw to bite into and increase its holding power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bed bolts or frame brackets would be even better.  If none of those options are practical, you can glue and screw a small piece of wood on the inside of the leg (ideally going all the way to the floor) such that the cross frame is mostly supported by this block and the screws do not have to support the weight in the Z axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2019-01-21T20:36:14.973" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8210" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-21T21:17:46.647" Score="1" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to try making a stool based on this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0LAZCok9aV4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video series by Paul Sellers&lt;/a&gt;. Unlike Paul, I will use some power tools (power drill, oscillating tool for sanding/cutting, maybe rotary tool for sanding). Also I don't have a plane or spokeshave. I'm planning to use saw, chisel and a lot of sanding to smooth out the wood instead of planing/shaving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also don't have such nice wood on hand. I have a scrap piece which appears to be made from boards glued on a plywood, with some veneer as well (the veneer won't make it into the project). As you can see there are cracks and it's not in the best shape, but this stool will likely see abuse anyway, so I don't care if it looks rough. My question is, will the stool break during use in a dangerous way if I use this wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a0T3l.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/190wU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZsVrL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZsVrL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9KfpW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9KfpW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kbBHU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kbBHU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jXSlU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jXSlU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried suspending the wood with the plywood side down, and two blocks below the short edges, then climbing on top of it and pumping my legs. I'm 170 lbs and a decently good pumper. The wood buckled, perhaps by about 0.25-0.5&quot;, but didn't break or make sounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wood is 1.148&quot; thick, and 16&quot; x 22&quot;. I can only guess at its original purpose, I found it by the dumpster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5443" LastActivityDate="2019-01-28T13:07:49.097" Title="If I make a stool from this composite (?) wood, will it end in tears?" Tags="|furniture|safety|strength|reclaimed-wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8197" CreationDate="2019-01-22T08:40:03.100" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although this isn't quite what you asked about it does provide additional support on the in-feed side which is the heart of what you're seeking so perhaps it will do what you want:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bpCsv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bpCsv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Table saw fence extension&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an old tip supplied by a reader or contributor to Fine Woodworking that I came across while reading last night and I immediately thought of this Question. Taunton have gotten great mileage out of it having published it at least four times so I presume they think it's good! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original tip is available as a free PDF download, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.finewoodworking.com/FWNPDFfree/tablesaw-fence-extension.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tablesaw fence extension supports a full sheet of plywood&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Safety note&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Just to emphasise something in case it's needed, you &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; build and mount anything like this accurately to ensure it's safe to use. If it's out of parallel with the blade it could lead to binding which is hazardous, at the very least risking damage to the workpiece and at worst serious injury to the operator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-01-22T08:40:03.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8198" CreationDate="2019-01-22T21:18:58.487" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the mid-South.  Lots of humidity here.  Rust speed and amount always varies by metal.  In my shop, I keep automotive carnauba wax on metal surfaces fairly often.  Cheap, easy, doesn't stain wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, for some older tools I've restored, I used gun bluing and I actually like the look.  Obviously, bluing isn't a complete rust stop, but it is better than nothing.  For some tools and surfaces in my shop, that are constantly getting used (or covered in sawdust!), there's rarely call for any additional protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5784" LastActivityDate="2019-01-22T21:18:58.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8213" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-23T15:58:11.487" Score="1" ViewCount="2651" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it be possible straighten a piece of coconut shell using similar techniques to bend wood?&#xA;I know it's not wood but I just can imagine cutting the coconut shell in many tiles and later straighten them. It could be a good material though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder if somebody already tried this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6031" LastActivityDate="2022-11-05T04:45:58.000" Title="Is it possible straighten (unbend) a piece of coconut shell. Steaming it or heating it?" Tags="|bending|steam-bending|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8214" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-24T17:19:22.510" Score="0" ViewCount="206" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5kILe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5kILe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;i have cut up an old 'brown furniture' table to use as a basin stand in a bathroom and am wondering what the best product is to use on it to protect it. Not sure what the wood is, but seems to be a hard wood. Antique, with a French Polish style finish at the moment... I was thinking of slathering on a load of yacht varnish???&#xA;cheers&#xA;Jules&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MORE INFO:&#xA;After advice from members I shall be more specific.&#xA;I would like to maintain the current finish on the wood, but leave it able to withstand water sitting on it without marking or eventually rotting. &#xA;I have been told the only real solution is a glass top, but I’m sure there must be a simple paint on coating that will give me 5 to 10 years useage??&#xA;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6034" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2019-01-30T17:56:07.333" LastActivityDate="2020-08-21T04:06:40.647" Title="What finish would work for a bathroom basin table?" Tags="|hardwood|varnish|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="50" CreationDate="2019-01-24T22:50:30.257" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears the wood shown is red oak, in the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience any oil will darken the colour of the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water born polyurethane has the least colour change on wood. For a very natural look, apply thin coats then flatten the finish with steal wool this in my opinion give it the closest to an unfinished look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2019-01-24T22:50:30.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8217" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-26T11:16:14.283" Score="2" ViewCount="674" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a Murphy bed with 18mm plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to use knock-down joints for the sides of the base (outer-frame). My &lt;a href=&quot;https://medium.com/@2color/experiment-in-small-spaces-step-3-joinery-9d3c1bb193d2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;research&lt;/a&gt; led me to cross dowels (see below)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When doing some tests joining with cross-dowels, I was confronted by the following challenge:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the planks are large, I have to use a hand drill. Drilling accurately is quite difficult. For the edge I There are &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodpeck.com/shop-by-brands/woodpeckers/woodpeckers-universal-cross-dowel-jig-2793.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;jigs&lt;/a&gt; to help with this but they're so expensive I'd can't quite justify it. I'm considering building my own jig with wood/perspex and metal drill bushings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, I considered using the another &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.de/Gedotec-M%C3%B6belverbinder-Bettverbinder-Korpusverbinder-Einh%C3%A4nge-Verbinder/dp/B071YDPZNL/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1548500379&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=bed%20connector&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;type of connector&lt;/a&gt; that is often used vertically in knock-down beds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specification:&#xA;Size: 52 mm, Width: 17 mm, static load Both Horizontal &amp;amp; Vertical approximately 250 kg&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a hand router (in case a recess is required).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Concrete Questions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this type of connector be structurally as sound as a knockdown joint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What must I consider when using such a connector?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Design: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K42Ri.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K42Ri.png&quot; alt=&quot;bed&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Cross dowels:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9pxYs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9pxYs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cross dowels&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;alternative connector:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gYVab.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gYVab.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;connector&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5165" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-12-27T09:36:18.240" LastActivityDate="2022-01-31T00:06:55.650" Title="Which weight bearing knockdown joints" Tags="|joinery|furniture|power-tools|strength|knockdown|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8218" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-26T21:54:40.227" Score="1" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to cut 1 inch wide by 5-inch length pockets into various types of hardwood to a depth of 1.5in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is how do I pick the cutting diameter of the spiral bit. I understand that probably just about any diameter could be used but I'm looking to minimize my machine time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6035" LastActivityDate="2019-01-29T07:52:14.137" Title="What spiral bit cutting diameter to cut 1 inch wide pocket into hardwood using CNC router" Tags="|router|router-bit|cnc|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8220" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-28T03:02:11.650" Score="2" ViewCount="476" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read many articles about dust collection and the differences between a shop vac and a dust collector. I am still stuck on one major issue for me; how does one connect table saw, mitre saw, router table to a 4&quot; dust collector when all their ports are 2 1/2&quot;? My understanding is that the reductions severely inhibit the dust collectors ability (which was also my experience as I tried it). I switched to my 6.5 hp shop vac but it cannot handle more than one or two at a time at best and when I add a dust deputy into the mix, everything gets worse. Would really appreciate some direction. Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6044" LastActivityDate="2019-01-29T20:21:20.060" Title="Dust collection for my shop" Tags="|dust-collection|sawdust|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8210" CreationDate="2019-01-28T13:07:49.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The plywood would be a &lt;em&gt;bit&lt;/em&gt; thin on its own as a stool seat, as would the solid wood.  Together they will be fine (provided they are well glued together of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't bother trying to remove the veneer from the plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1646" LastActivityDate="2019-01-28T13:07:49.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8222" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-28T22:45:59.383" Score="2" ViewCount="5232" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a great looking walnut slab that I'm looking to turn into a wood-river coffee table. This slab is 2.5&quot; thick, which gives me the thought of slicing it in half, thus having twice the material and possible twice the tables from it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this even advisable to do? If it won't be a problem, what is the best way to go about it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slab dimensions are ~2.5' x 5' x 2.5&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5460" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2019-01-29T17:39:56.283" LastActivityDate="2019-01-29T17:45:36.357" Title="Options for splitting a slab?" Tags="|cutting|resawing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8222" CreationDate="2019-01-29T00:54:07.877" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to clarify, as I understand your question you want to turn your 2 1/2&quot; thick slab into two slabs that are each the same size but 1&quot;+ thick?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This operation is called &quot;resawing&quot;.  Typically this would be done with a bandsaw, however most home-shop bandsaws max out at around 1' of resaw capacity.  For your slab you will need something with a much bigger capacity (30&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You could find someone with a proper milling bandsaw, such as a Woodmizer.  This is probably the easiest thing to do if you're really intending to do this just for one slab.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You could put together a chainsaw milling setup (also know as an &quot;alaskan mill&quot;).  This would get the job done, but I wouldn't be surprised if you end up spending $500-1000 if you don't have a chainsaw already.  You'll also lose a lot more to the saw kerf  compared to a band saw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You could attempt this with a handsaw, but it will be a lot of effort, and I think you'll have trouble keeping it tracking straight in the center.  Most panel saws max out around 26&quot;.  Working from both sides you might be able to get through it with this, but it'll be difficult.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you should expect to have some wood movement after you resaw.  This will probably cause you to loose a substantial amount of thickness when you go to flatten the two new slabs.  It is entirely possible that you will not have a usable board after it's flattened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2019-01-29T17:45:36.357" LastActivityDate="2019-01-29T17:45:36.357" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8218" CreationDate="2019-01-29T07:52:14.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think it makes much difference.  If you have a smaller cutter you can move the cutter faster; if you have a larger cutter you will have to move it slower.  The limiting factor is how fast the motor can cut wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously if you use an extremely thin cutter your CNC machine won't be able to move fast enough, and if you use an extremely large cutter it will have difficulty accurately controlling the speed low enough, but over a broad range of cutter sizes it shouldn't much matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1215/should-i-do-many-shallow-quick-cuts-or-a-single-deep-slow-one-with-my-router?rq=1&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; which also about efficiently removing wood with a router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1646" LastActivityDate="2019-01-29T07:52:14.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8225" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-29T19:53:49.737" Score="2" ViewCount="10078" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just did a pretty big piece of cherry with epoxy resin and there are a few spots that didn’t get covered adequately. Got a light coat but you can see the texture of the wood and not a glassy epoxy coating. The epoxy is almost dry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would rather not do an entire second coating. This also does not have to be perfect, I would just like to get it a little more glassy so it’s not so obvious. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a spray I can use on this section to gloss it up? Or even coat the entire piece in a light spray?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cdtJx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2236" LastActivityDate="2019-07-28T16:03:56.513" Title="Clear coat over epoxy?" Tags="|finishing|epoxy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8226" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-29T20:01:20.557" Score="2" ViewCount="1941" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7BLHc.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some cracks in the sole of my plane, are there any possible fixes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5999" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-01-30T08:03:27.643" LastActivityDate="2019-01-30T16:10:19.177" Title="Broken plane sole - any fix?" Tags="|hand-planing|tool-repair|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8220" CreationDate="2019-01-29T20:21:20.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many adapters and reducers available for dust collection hoses and fittings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to one: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.grizzly.com/products/Woodstock-4-x-2-1-2-Adapter/W1044&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;4 to 2 1/2 reducer.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the reduction reduce the ability of the dust collector? Sure, but it's still doing a better job than the shop vac. And most can handle running multiple tools at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage of the dust collector vs. a shop vac is in CFM, or how much air it can suck/cycle. If you look at a 2hp dust collector, the CFM will be around 1500cfm vs. a 6hp shop vac around 180cfm. That's moving a lot more air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With my table saw, I have a dust collector hooked to the back port and an additional over the blade suction. Removes most of the dust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6057" LastActivityDate="2019-01-29T20:21:20.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8228" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-01-29T23:40:20.293" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2019-01-29T23:40:20.293" LastActivityDate="2019-01-29T23:40:20.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8229" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-01-29T23:40:20.293" Score="0" Body="Sawing a board into thinner boards that are the same length and width" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T09:33:44.540" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T09:33:44.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8226" CreationDate="2019-01-30T06:50:00.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can bronze weld it with bronze wire and oxy/acetylene torch, then re-flatten the sole, as SaSSafraS1232 says. I wouldn't try to arc/mig weld it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was given a No. 51/2 Stanley plane that was bronzed together after it had been broken completely in half across the throat. I spent hours re-flattening the sole and cheeks using sandpaper glued onto a flat slab of glass and then finishing on a waterstone. The plane doesn't look pretty anymore, but works as well as new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6059" LastActivityDate="2019-01-30T06:50:00.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8226" CreationDate="2019-01-30T08:37:12.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brazing is generally considered the standard fix for cracks in the body castings of planes. Cracks in cast iron can also be repaired with the right type of welding, with and without pre-heating&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, and also using high-melt solder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are numerous reasons not to get a plane repaired however, number one of which is that it's not economically viable. This obviously doesn't apply if you can braze or weld cast iron yourself, but if done commercially at normal rates (not &quot;mates rates&quot; or as a freebie by a welder who wants the experience) the cost of the repair &lt;strong&gt;will&lt;/strong&gt; exceed the initial cost of the plane, or the value of it after the repair is done. And that's even if it works right, reason number two — all such repairs come with the risk of the casting cracking, or warping and becoming unusable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Good news though, you probably don't need to worry about it anyway&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You don't specify but this appears to be a block plane which has a short sole and which isn't subject to heavy planing duties, so it won't flex much or at all in use. What this means in practice is these cracks might not get worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And they could well be old already, the one on the right certainly appears to be. Many users have vintage planes with old cracks that don't get longer with their use of the tool. There's no guarantee of this of course, but often the only reasonable options are to use a cracked plane and hope for the best or retire it&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the cracks do get worse and eventually render your plane unusable vintage block planes are abundant (understatement!) so a replacement shouldn't be too difficult to find, and because they're abundant they tend not to cost much. Also there are cheaper new planes in most markets that are viable alternatives&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And on your plane note the difference in cheek thickness left to right, that's not indicative of this being a high-quality tool, or a better example if it is from a reputable maker when their name still stood for quality&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;. So bottom line, it's not the end of the world if it does become a paperweight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Although purists insist welding cast iron hot is an absolute requirement for good results, there are numerous examples that prove otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; I have a Faithfull and it's awesome, and required almost zero work to get up and running. There are at least two videos currently on YouTube of Kobalt planes being tuned to work at a high level. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Even during the good years poorer examples occasionally slipped through quality control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-01-30T08:37:12.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8232" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8234" CreationDate="2019-01-30T15:58:22.370" Score="1" ViewCount="1572" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd expect so, but thought I'd ask, anyway. This is similar to sizing, but the dilute mixture would be the only thing that was applied&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also assume/expect that diluting it too much would defeat the purpose of the glue, so friend's intent was only to dilute by about 10% or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess the real question is: is diluting glue to increase open time a good idea at all, and if so, what is the limit of dilution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5706" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-01-30T20:23:14.060" LastActivityDate="2019-01-30T20:25:50.457" Title="Will diluting PVA glue increase its open time?" Tags="|glue|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8226" CreationDate="2019-01-30T16:10:19.177" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drilling a small hole at the end of the crack can help keep it from propagating further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2019-01-30T16:10:19.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8232" CreationDate="2019-01-30T20:25:50.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually no, dilution doesn't really extend open time. In fact oddly, diluting a glue can make it go off faster because water evaporates (or is absorbed by the substrate) faster from a fluid mixture than from a more viscous one, and by their nature more watery mixtures tend to sit more thinly on the surface to begin with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Franklin (makers of Titebond) used to say in their FAQ for Titebond&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; that they can be safely diluted by only 5%. From experience in related areas I expect this to be conservative, but rather than face a glue-line failure it's probably best to treat this as gospel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need a much greater open time than that provided by a given PVA it's better to look into using a different adhesive. Epoxy and foaming polyurethane are two of the commonest choices, room-temperature hide glue and urea-formaldehyde are also good alternatives for specific applications. Note however that clamping needs for each of these glues is not quite the same as with PVA, so some adjustment in your procedures may be needed to get the strongest joints possible&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; This information appears to no longer be given on their website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Epoxy for example is one adhesive where it is possible to starve a joint with high clamp pressure (something that is essentially impossible with PVAs, despite the widespread belief among woodworkers to the contrary).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-01-30T20:25:50.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8235" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-30T21:46:17.097" Score="1" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a broken 4x4&quot; fence post at bottom.&#xA;Post is in concrete &#xA;Wondering the best fix without digging up concrete and doing it all over.&#xA;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5999" LastActivityDate="2019-01-31T19:23:26.847" Title="Broken Fence Post Fix?" Tags="|fence|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8235" CreationDate="2019-01-30T22:03:35.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on how much &quot;good&quot; post you have to work with above the concrete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have enough to attach another post to what remains of the original post, you could cut off the original post and join a new one to the &quot;stump&quot; using a lap joint or scarf joint, then run a couple bolts through it to hold together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should probably orient the joint so that it provides maximum resistance to wind forces exerted against the fence. Posting a picture would be very helpful in this situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-01-31T19:23:26.847" LastActivityDate="2019-01-31T19:23:26.847" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8235" CreationDate="2019-01-31T00:51:33.113" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;possibly drill one or more holes in the existing and the replacement then join them together with rebar and epoxy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2019-01-31T00:51:33.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4119" CreationDate="2019-01-31T00:58:47.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have resawn up to 6&quot; with a 14&quot; band saw with a 1/3rd hp motor, painfully slow. A good resaw blade makes all the difference. All of that said 3/4 hp or better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2019-01-31T00:58:47.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5375" CreationDate="2019-01-31T01:23:31.490" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would resaw first. Easer to resaw and you can some times get beautiful book matched panels. Although glue up will be a little harder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2019-01-31T01:23:31.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8235" CreationDate="2019-01-31T01:44:16.600" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are some options for repairing your fence:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get a $5 metal &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lowes.com/pd/Actual-1-4-in-x-3-in-x-6-ft-Green-Steel-Farm-Fence-T-Post/4758566?cm_mmc=SCE_PLA-_-LumberAndBuildingMaterials-_-WireFence-_-4758566:&amp;amp;CAWELAID=&amp;amp;kpid=4758566&amp;amp;CAGPSPN=pla&amp;amp;store_code=1887&amp;amp;k_clickID=go_625667893_34613739070_111132546670_aud-299487635210:pla-258795389990_c_9033589&amp;amp;gclid=CjwKCAiAs8XiBRAGEiwAFyQ-eugJ8yujYjpsAWNvyLV6j4Zyor-dz0Z2b8-YXHTWCHNXmQHeVIdvChoC8UYQAvD_BwE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;T-post&lt;/a&gt; or two and drive it in the ground near the broken 4x4. You may have to pound the T-post in at an angle to avoid hitting the concrete. Screw the 4x4 to the metal T-post. Easiest, cheapest, and fastest. This is a good temporary solution to a leaning fence.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Temporary brace the fence with 2x4's and detach the broken post from the fence. Using a drill and chisel, remove as much of the broken post from the concrete as possible. Get a new 4x4 post. Carefully measure the hole in the concrete. Use a handplane on the bottom of the new 4x4 post. Shave off about 1/2&quot; from each of the sides so that it will fit in the hole you measured. There is no second chance, so make sure the post is smaller than the hole. Pound the new post into the hole in the cement. Use shims to level the post. Finally, reattach the fence.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless the 4x4 broke for a specific reason, like it was hit by a car, it's likely that rot caused the post to fail. If that's the case, it's likely that the other posts are rotten too. Check by stabbing with a screw driver. If the screw driver goes into the wood more then 1/2&quot;, it's rotten. Repairing a rotten fence (option #2) is almost certainly not worth it, as another post will likely fail in the near future. If the fence is rotten, it's best to prop it up (option #1) and then take care of it when the weather is more pleasant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5389" LastActivityDate="2019-01-31T01:44:16.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8241" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-31T03:56:18.077" Score="1" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;I scored some pretty good logs of cherry from some workers across the street from my house who would rather have given it to me than lift it into the back of their truck. I carted it home and have it laying beside my house under some covering for right now. I plan on slabbing it up and piling it to dry for use in projects in a couple of years. My problem is I won't be able to get to the cutting it up portion for at least another week or so due to previous engagements. &lt;strong&gt;How long can I wait to cut up the wood before any adverse effects such as major warping or rot start to occur?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3486" LastActivityDate="2019-01-31T03:56:18.077" Title="How soon should I cut up new wood?" Tags="|wood|wood-drying|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8242" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-31T17:26:32.270" Score="1" ViewCount="556" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having a hard time making dowel holes on the butts of my pieces. I have a Milescraft Jointmate, which honestly isn't helping me a lot. The pegs which center the holes are too distant to fit into the butt of my lumber (2x5cm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I will probably buy a decent self-centering jig from China, but shipping usually takes long and in the meantime I need a shop made a jig to get me through in the meantime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem is, I can't find metal bushings around here in Brazil. How can I make a decent jig without these? Would it be helpful to be make the holes as long as possible in the jig, or maybe replace the bushing with threaded inserts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5226" LastActivityDate="2020-06-25T13:03:45.423" Title="How to make dowelling jigs without metal bushings?" Tags="|jig|dowel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8242" CreationDate="2019-02-01T10:19:11.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I can't find metal bushings around here in Brazil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bushings in commercial jigs would be made from tool steel to give a long service life (months or longer in commercial use, decades in typical use by a home woodworker). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a shop-made jig though anything that adds wear resistance can help, so a bushing can be any suitable metal pipe with the correct internal diameter&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. Although copper is quite soft it's worth using if nothing else is available, ditto aluminium. Brass is better. Steel is best of all naturally, including stainless and mild steels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If suitable pipe for a bushing can't be found and you want to reinforce then a surface plate of metal will also add useful strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How can I make a decent jig without these? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For light/occasional use and one-off jobs drilling jigs made from wood only work fine. Even softwoods can be used and give a useful lifespan. I made a pocket-screw jig from &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5112/substitute-for-pocket-hole-jig/5116#5116&quot;&gt;this plan&lt;/a&gt; from pine or possibly a type of fir, I can't tell which, and after numerous uses it hasn't worn much (but I am careful not to lean the drill when using it). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Harder wood is better of course. If you want to make a jig that lasts longer it is worth using a good strong hardwood, and since jigs of this kind only require a small piece even a really nice species that you wouldn't normally consider for a workshop jig can be used — very short offcuts that would be suitable are generally not of much use otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are numerous dowelling jigs posted on YouTube&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; if you haven't seen any already, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhbKsM2gtB0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here's a good one&lt;/a&gt; but there are others worth looking at, including some self-centring types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; If you're buying pipe online internal diameter is often shortened to ID in technical specs, and outside diameter to OD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; As well as guides on how to make dowel plate so you can quickly and easily form custom hardwood dowels. These two jigs make a very useful pairing for do-it-yourself dowel joinery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T10:19:11.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8244" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-02-01T10:51:35.590" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Random-orbit sanders are power sanders that feature a random orbital pattern that helps avoid obvious swirl marks (AKA swirlies or pigtails). They can be corded or uncorded (battery powered).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are a type of &lt;em&gt;finish sander&lt;/em&gt;, for smoothing of wood that has already been made flat by other means and are not intended for heavy material removal or the removal of finish, although they are commonly utilised for both purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T10:51:35.590" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T10:51:35.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8245" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-02-01T10:51:35.590" Score="0" Body="About correct use and techniques, features to look for etc." OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T10:51:35.590" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T10:51:35.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8246" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-02-01T10:54:02.443" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T10:54:02.443" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T10:54:02.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8247" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-02-01T10:54:02.443" Score="0" Body="Abbreviation for random-orbit sander." OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T10:54:02.443" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T10:54:02.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8248" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-01T14:15:22.103" Score="2" ViewCount="2517" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have built a pergola on my own about 1.5 years ago and it doesn't stop making those cracking wood noises (like the wood is cracking).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all I know I have built the pergola pretty good because I have followed the instruction of a friend who owns a wood business, and the pergola also &quot;passed the test&quot; of a very bad weather with very strong wind and rain this winter.&#xA;I examined the pergola and I couldn't see any cracks or broken wood anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 2 kind of noises that I hear, I assume that 1 of the noises comes from the material that lays on top of the wooden pergola, while the other noise comes from the wood itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The noises comes mostly when there is a change in the weather, the noises start when the sun comes out and last for about few minutes, they start again when the sun goes away, and so on every day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first I assumed its because the wood is new, and I know wood tend to expand and shrink depending the weather, moist and such, but I thought that after a year it would stop, but it doesn't, the noises sounds the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figured the noises come from the small wood bars that lay on top of the &quot;main&quot; frame and not from the frame itself, those wood bars are there just so there would be less sun inside and not for holding the structure together, when we put them on, they were not straight enough, so we had to manually put them in the right place with force to be straight, and I assume because of this I hear the crack sounds because they are trying to bend back to their first form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Should I be worried? How can I check if I should be worried or not?&lt;/strong&gt; While I can't see any big cracks in the wood I know that in most cases it doesn't matter and the wood can break without notice anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How can I stop it?&lt;/strong&gt; Is there anything I can do to stop those noises? It happens on a daily basis and it is something that really starts to bother me.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some images:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OkW32.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OkW32.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wood bars that lay on top of the main frame&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eBcfp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eBcfp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;General structure of the frame, and how it sits on the wall&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6065" LastActivityDate="2021-12-03T23:04:47.620" Title="How do I stop cracking noises from my pergola?" Tags="|wood|outdoor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6179" CreationDate="2019-02-01T18:14:55.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be glue. It ends up in some strange places. I would thoroughly sand the area to bare wood and reapply the finish. I recently had a spot show up in the middle of a board. Just my 2 cents. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastEditorUserId="5407" LastEditDate="2019-07-06T03:08:51.077" LastActivityDate="2019-07-06T03:08:51.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8250" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-01T18:30:18.927" Score="1" ViewCount="332" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a method for matching an unknown finish on an existing piece of wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, I have an old (but nowhere near antique) piece that has had a couple trim pieces fall off. I've managed to re-create the trim pieces, but I'm not sure how to re-create the finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wood is oak. The finish is fairly yellow, similar to what you might find on cheap oak cabinets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The overall piece is complicated enough that I'd prefer not to strip it all down and re-finish the entire thing. It's also unimportant enough that an exact match is not needed. I'd just like something close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1565" LastEditorUserId="1565" LastEditDate="2019-02-04T21:09:37.837" LastActivityDate="2019-11-01T23:01:30.240" Title="Matching a cheap yellow finish on oak" Tags="|finishing|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8251" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-02-01T18:56:25.407" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use when cutting the wood is of central importance to the question, as distinct from other milling operations which may be used to shape a piece to final dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="3562" LastEditDate="2019-03-11T07:52:53.813" LastActivityDate="2019-03-11T07:52:53.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8252" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-02-01T18:56:25.407" Score="0" Body="Use when cutting the wood is of central importance to the question. Not for questions about planing or milling." OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="3562" LastEditDate="2019-03-11T07:52:24.683" LastActivityDate="2019-03-11T07:52:24.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8253" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-02-01T19:02:55.930" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T19:02:55.930" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T19:02:55.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8254" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-02-01T19:02:55.930" Score="0" Body="Use for any Question regarding tabletops, including creation and maintenance." OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T19:02:55.930" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T19:02:55.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8255" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-02-01T19:14:49.133" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Polyurethane (commonly shortened to poly) is a synthetic resin that is used to make a few different types of modern finish. Some primarily consist of polyurethane while in others, including all the common polyurethane varnishes (both oil-based and waterbased), the polyurethane is an additive and may be present in only small amounts. It is added to improve wear and scratch resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T19:14:49.133" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T19:14:49.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8256" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-02-01T19:14:49.133" Score="0" Body="Polyurethane is a synthetic resin used in some modern finishes." OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T19:14:49.133" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T19:14:49.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8257" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-02-01T19:16:00.900" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T19:16:00.900" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T19:16:00.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8258" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-02-01T19:16:00.900" Score="0" Body="Use for all aspects of table making and all types and sizes of table." OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T19:16:00.900" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T19:16:00.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8259" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-02-01T19:16:49.333" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T19:16:49.333" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T19:16:49.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8260" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-02-01T19:16:49.333" Score="0" Body="Use for Questions where the strength of the materials and/or the overall design is of primary importance." OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T19:16:49.333" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T19:16:49.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8250" CreationDate="2019-02-01T20:03:06.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming here that you need help matching a &lt;em&gt;tinted&lt;/em&gt; clear finish of some sort. (This is where a photo or two would have come in handy.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many (most?) dedicated paint and finishing stores will be able to pretty closely match almost any finish if you can bring in a piece with the original finish on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They use a colour corrected camera to scan the piece, which gives them the tint info they need to mix up a batch. There will be limitations based on the wood, finish type, and application, but they can get a suprisingly close match to most finishes in my experience. If you bring in a piece of your new wood they can often show you right there what it might look like once it cures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if this is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; for a tinted, clear finish you could consult with the folks that do this for a living because they say they can match any decades-old finish with reasonable accuracy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, depending on the finish, they might just have off-the-shelf tints they can show you that are already pretty close. But most of these places can at least attempt to match pretty much any tint in a variety of ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T20:38:12.467" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T20:38:12.467" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8262" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-02-01T20:29:00.400" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T20:29:00.400" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T20:29:00.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8263" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-02-01T20:29:00.400" Score="0" Body="A softwood, from any of a number of related *pinus* species grown all around the world. It may also be used generically to refer to softwood construction wood in some markets." OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T20:29:00.400" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T20:29:00.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8264" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8266" CreationDate="2019-02-02T22:39:22.377" Score="6" ViewCount="1852" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some 1/8&quot; plywood that I use to make small boxes, organizers etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it is rough, a fast and neat way to smooth it is with a smoothing plane. Only a few light passes, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using bench dogs doesn't really work because the plywood is so thin and the bench dogs are higher than the piece of wood and the toe of the plane would bump into them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any trick to clamp thin wood so the whole upper surface is available for planing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastEditorUserId="4942" LastEditDate="2019-02-03T11:36:56.963" LastActivityDate="2021-04-01T14:22:10.030" Title="How to clamp very thin wood for planing" Tags="|technique|workbench|hand-planing|clamps|bench-dogs|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8264" CreationDate="2019-02-03T10:42:25.807" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In some respects end stops (as seen on most &lt;em&gt;planing boards&lt;/em&gt; and as built into many good benches) are the ideal for planing thinner stock. You can use dogs as these stops of course, they just need to be a raised to be a hair lower than the surface of the board you're working on. And ideally made of wood or plastic, definitely not metal!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there tends to be a limit to how thin the material can be and for planing stops to still work well and unfortunately that limit seems to be just around 1/8&quot; (3mm) — the workpiece can flex as it's being worked and sometimes simply jumps over the stop which is all kinds of bad. In addition the force exerted on the edges can slightly damage them, and plywood's edges aren't noted for being resilient. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of individual stops like dogs or short rising stops create you can use a wide stop built into the end of the bench or clamped vertically in an end vice, clamped in a face vice (&lt;a href=&quot;https://popularwoodworking.com/wp-content/uploads/faceplanestop11.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt; on Pop Woodworking&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;), or a continuous strip&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. But regardless of the stop type a thin workpiece can still want to jump across it and significant damage to it can result, from the plane itself, from the workpiece hitting anything beyond (including a smooth wall) or from falling to the floor where corner damage is almost inevitable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I think the ideal solution is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; to try to have the whole surface available to work on at one time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead clamp the piece firmly down to the benchtop using one or more clamps, a holdfast (or equivalent) and just work around it/them. This is the conclusion I came to from working the surface of a lot of recovered hardboard and soiled plywood which I needed to scrape clean. In addition to being sure the workpiece will never jump over a stop it keeps it flatter, which will certainly help when planing thin plywood which is prone to flexing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one further possibility you might want to try and that's to place the plywood onto a sheet of the non-slip rubberised stuff sold for lining drawers&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;. This is now widely used to hold workpieces in place during sanding and routing operations. I'm doubtful it will work well for planing very thin material (because of the flexibility of the material and how you have to press down on a plane) but you might want to try it for yourself before you rule it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; I believe this style is based on one published by Robert Wearing in his excellent book, &lt;strong&gt;The Resourceful Woodworker&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; When planing thin material I've rigged up temporary stops that span the bench using a strip of the same thin material I was working on, clamped firmly at each end. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Note this same stuff (it appears to be &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; the same) is sold by some woodworking suppliers, but at hugely inflated prices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-02-03T10:42:25.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8267" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-03T15:29:07.300" Score="2" ViewCount="1741" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a door that is rubbing at the bottom corner away from the hinge. The gap between the door and the frame on the hinge edge is wider at the top of the door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the culprit is the middle hinge  which has its mortises cut slightly too shallow on both the frame and the door. I need to deepen them by about 1/50th of an inch on both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mortise has rounded corners, so a chisel is not a solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard of people using forstner bits rout out hinge mortises, but it seems like a hack to me. I need to remove an even, thin layer of wood and I think using a Forstner bit would just be too ham handed and end up cutting too deep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, I will not be able to manipulate a full size plunge router on the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the solution here? How can I &lt;strong&gt;evenly&lt;/strong&gt; remove 1/50th of inch of wood from the two mortises?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2019-02-04T22:24:17.763" Title="Evenly deepen a rounded hinge mortise" Tags="|hinges|door|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8268" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-04T00:14:16.173" Score="3" ViewCount="5641" Body="&lt;p&gt;Never dealt with this before but it’s really frustrating. Just built a dining table and 2 other small projects with the scraps. I stained with Varathane stain then applied Varathane water based poly. I did 2 coats a day apart. My son placed a package we received on it 3 days after applying the poly and it left these white marks we have not used the table hoping it’s just taking longer to cure. Yesterday, a week later I touch it again to see and barely grazed it with my nail and it did it again. Feels as if we waxed the top like a soft layer that’s not setting in. We went with a matte finish as well. We previously built a coffee table same finish same cold conditions we live in Cali and it’s totally fine and set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw people using a white pad and buffing the finish but I’m scared to do anything to it. Any advice is welcomed dying to use it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6069" LastEditorUserId="6069" LastEditDate="2019-02-04T06:59:42.650" LastActivityDate="2019-11-22T16:22:57.980" Title="Water based poly super sensitive scratches white with simply grazing it?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8268" CreationDate="2019-02-04T13:10:04.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most water based polyurethanes shouldn't be that soft. Some points to consider in your case:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Time between coats of water based poly is typically 4 hours. Most manufacturers recommend sanding the previous coat if the time between coats is 24 hours or more. If you applied the second coat after 24 hours (a day apart, as you said), and didn't sand the previous coat, it might be that the new coat didn't adhere well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Was the stain water or oil based? If oil, did you let it cure fully before applying the water poly? Not letting the oil based stain fully cure (a few days at least, preferably a week) will also interfere with the poly adhering.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 coats of poly are typically too little, especially with water based poly (which is thinner than oil based poly and easier to apply thinner coats (which is actually a good thing)). With the faster dry time it is pretty easy to apply 4-5 coats at the same time you could apply only 2 coats of oil based poly. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally, as mentioned by Graphus in the comment, there is a big difference between dry time and full strength cure time. This applies both to oil and water based polys. Most water based polys are dry after 4 hours, but are fully cured after a week or more. Some manufacturers list strength/cure time tables, for example 50% strength in 1 day, 95% strength in 7 days, etc. That should give you a good idea how long to wait before putting the item to use.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, I like using water based poly for floors (incidentally, also from Varathane) on my projects, inspired by Matthias Wandel from woodgears.ca, and apply 5-6 coats (over a day and a half) and waiting a week before putting the project to service. Testing on scraps, there is a very noticeable increase in strength over the week of curing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to what to do now, your're best off with removing the existing poly (which is not adhered well to the wood). You can do this via sanding, scraping or chemical stripping. All of these will probably also affect the stain on the wood as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the existing poly is removed, reapply it carefully, taking into account the above points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastEditorUserId="534" LastEditDate="2019-02-04T17:15:16.520" LastActivityDate="2019-02-04T17:15:16.520" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8267" CreationDate="2019-02-04T22:24:17.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a router to deepen an existing hinge mortise. With a steady hand, this can be done without any guide. Use a straight bit and carefully remove the wood to make the mortise deeper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5389" LastActivityDate="2019-02-04T22:24:17.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8264" CreationDate="2019-02-05T00:15:18.737" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are going to be doing a lot of this kind of thin surfacing work, you might want to invest in a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rockler.com/rockler-vacuum-clamp-pod-kit?sid=V9146?utm_source=google&amp;amp;utm_medium=cpc&amp;amp;utm_term=&amp;amp;utm_content=pla_with_promotion&amp;amp;utm_campaign=PL&amp;amp;gclid=CjwKCAiA4t_iBRApEiwAn-vt-4PEA41or9ob1bjtEkhSkXl6GHyQCUhc97o3HCi4niJ7rVeaD3gyWRoCHRwQAvD_BwE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;vacuum clamp&lt;/a&gt;.  When combined with a small vacuum pump, these clamps can hold onto the flat bottom face of the plywood with surprising strength, leaving the top side and edges completely unobstructed and accessible to your plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a concern (raised by Graphus) that these clamps, if used as shown in the link, wouldn't work for planing because much of the wood would hang over the raised edges of the clamp such that when downward planing pressure was applied to those overhangs, the wood would flex, breaking the vacuum and the clamp's hold on the wood.  That is an absolutely valid shortcoming of using the clamps as shown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am planning to buy a pair of these clamps for my work table (as soon as I can afford the required vacuum pump) but will be embedding them in my work table between some of the dog holes.  My plan is to lay the clamp into a closely fitted hole, such that its' rubber gasket is flush with the surface of work table.  That way, any thin stock which I hold down with these clamps would be supported on all sides by the work table surface.  That will handle the issue that Graphus raised.  I will update this answer with pictures once I get it all working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="147" LastEditorUserId="147" LastEditDate="2019-02-05T18:57:25.647" LastActivityDate="2019-02-05T18:57:25.647" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8272" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-05T17:37:12.253" Score="1" ViewCount="451" Body="&lt;p&gt;What would be the best way to glue two surfaces which have already been finished with Danish oil and then wipe-on poly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One surface would be the cut edge of ply, the other surface would be solid wood.  Specifically: a long 2 1/4” width of solid wood capping two other edges of ply separated by a 3/4” gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I won't be able to biscuit or dowel, but the good news is that this isn't structural - just a finished surface. Nevertheless, it's not an ideal situation, so some collective wisdom would be helpful here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6073" LastEditorUserId="8085" LastEditDate="2020-03-02T06:16:28.307" LastActivityDate="2020-03-06T18:28:57.017" Title="Best way to glue two finished surfaces" Tags="|technique|glue|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8273" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8275" CreationDate="2019-02-06T00:13:07.747" Score="1" ViewCount="184" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to build an entertainment center that is 48” wide by 24” deep by 32” tall. I understand that I need to plan for wood movement for the top as it is solid wood (1 11/32” black walnut, grain is &lt;s&gt;perpendicular&lt;/s&gt; parallel to the face). The sides are also solid wood (13/16” QS makore). Both the top and sides have the grain running one direction, simple top and sides. From looking at the specs for each wood they are practically identical from a wood movement perspective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is: do I need to worry about wood movement if I attached the top to the sides with the grain on the sides and top running the same direction?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, I glue the entire 24” length where the top meets the side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, I attach and fix in the middle, then use zclips or whatever to attach out to the ends at 0” and 24”.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 2/6/2019:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks all for the responses and being gentle with my feeble attempts to explain my situation.  Sorry for the confusion.  The Black walnut looks to be rift sawn for all intensive purposes.  The Makore was labelled as quarter sawn when i got it.  The makore's grain is more diagonal-ish... Hopefully this photo will clear up the confusion.  Will update again with actual photos of the wood tomorrow:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iRSVu.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iRSVu.png&quot; alt=&quot;Entertainment Center Wood grain orientation&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 2/7/2019:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good question on how how to secure it.  Here are some pics on what I was thinking on the top:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z9xu1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z9xu1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O8oMS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O8oMS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;As for the second photo, the pieces on the top at an angle will be the bracing members for the bottom of the entertainment center(when it is right side up).  A shelf will connect to it (not pictured).  Using the Festool Domino to attach the sides to the top.  Then using a combination of the top bracing and z clips to keep the top secured to the unit.  I think I'll avoid gluing all together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6075" LastEditorUserId="6075" LastEditDate="2019-02-08T06:26:07.257" LastActivityDate="2019-03-10T07:02:05.397" Title="Solid wood top to solid wood sides" Tags="|joinery|design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8274" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9762" CreationDate="2019-02-06T04:14:42.877" Score="3" ViewCount="243" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm noticing that when I turn really hard woods, even with brand-new and very sharp carbide bits, sometimes I'll see these long scratches on the surface.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q1i5N.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q1i5N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;scratches on outside surface of curly maple bowl&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LijRC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LijRC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;scratches on inside surface of curly maple bowl&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Often they'll only become apparent once I've started sanding, and no amount of sanding seems to be able to mitigate or remove them. Do I really need to re-surface the bowl with a chisel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pretty exclusively use Easy Wood Tools (carbide-tipped) since I don't have the space for a sharpening system. Generally, I use the circular bit (which they call the finisher) for roughing, then try to get a fine surface finish with a square or radiused-square bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm attaching some pictures that show the scratches I'm talking about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since my tools are very sharp, and I'm seeing the scratches no matter what speed I set my lathe at, I'm wondering if they're happening because the speed at which I move the tool along the wood is slightly inconsistent - could this be the case? (I find it really hard to move the tool at a super-consistent speed, as it seems like there are &quot;slippery&quot; and &quot;sticky&quot; parts on the surface of my toolrest).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips or tricks would be much appreciated - I note, this doesn't seem to happen nearly as much on softer woods like walnut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="292" LastActivityDate="2019-07-01T08:12:48.017" Title="How are these toolmarks happening, and how to prevent / get rid of them?" Tags="|sanding|turning|surface-preparation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8273" CreationDate="2019-02-06T07:15:19.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the top and sides have the grain running in the same direction, then there's no need to worry about movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;I am a little worried when you say that the grain on the top is going to run &quot;perpendicular to the face&quot;.  Do you mean the top is going to be end-grain (so the grain runs vertically), or do you mean that the grain runs from the front of the unit to the back?  Either way, the top will be very weak (if you treat wood like a bundle of knitting needles weakly glued together, you won't go far wrong in analyzing how strong it is).  The only safe way is for the grain to run side to side.&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt; I am no longer worried about the grain direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1646" LastEditorUserId="1646" LastEditDate="2019-02-06T21:21:27.800" LastActivityDate="2019-02-06T21:21:27.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8276" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8278" CreationDate="2019-02-06T17:41:23.953" Score="1" ViewCount="7848" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there such a thing as &quot;food safe&quot; wood filler? Any tricks that would fill in cracks that would not require materials to be used that are toxic?    Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6080" LastActivityDate="2019-02-07T16:52:34.110" Title="Filling cracks and imperfections on a cutting board" Tags="|cutting-board|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1932" CreationDate="2019-02-06T21:34:51.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since this popped to the top of the list today:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; that the term &quot;saber saw&quot; is a generic reference to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sabre&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;saber&lt;/a&gt; - a single edged sword for cutting and thrusting. All of the tools that have been referenced in the question and answers have some variation of a single-edged cutting and thrusting blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one eliminates the word &quot;saber&quot; (or &quot;sabre&quot; if you prefer the Queen's English) from the discussion, there seem to be a pretty strong consensus that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A scroll saw is a table top saw with the blade held at both ends designed for intricate cuts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A jig saw is a hand-held saw with the blade held at one end, the motor in a perpendicular alignment to the blade, and a large base designed for stability on the work piece allowing for free-flowing cuts, generally of less precision than those of the scroll saw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A reciprocating saw is a hand-held saw with the blade held at one end with the motor (generally) in-line with the cutting blade that is designed for generally rough work (though one can be quite precise with one with practice). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2019-02-06T21:34:51.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8276" CreationDate="2019-02-07T16:52:34.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the width and number of cracks, the diameter of knot holes, etc, you could make your own &quot;filler&quot; with matching sawdust and a bit of the glue you originally used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without seeing a picture, and with out knowing what glue you used, it won't be any more or less &quot;toxic&quot; than the rest of the cutting board if it doesn't look too bad. Hopefully, it won't be too noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastActivityDate="2019-02-07T16:52:34.110" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8279" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-07T18:29:55.813" Score="1" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WWg2C.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WWg2C.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close-up of a cigar plank, showing residue of an unknown polymer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just bought a cigar plank from a thrift shop. Two of the molds have some residue of an unknown polymer, which I want to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's about the middle of the board, so perhaps it's some elastic glue that held something in place to hang it by.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've scraped a lot of it off, but I can't get it all this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The molds are untreated wood. How do I remove this residue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="64" LastActivityDate="2019-02-07T18:43:39.680" Title="How do I remove an unknown polymer from untreated wood?" Tags="|glue|clean-up|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8279" CreationDate="2019-02-07T18:43:39.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like adhesive residue, and if so, it will be removable with the right solvent. There is no way to tell by looking at it which one, although common solvents are aliphatic hydrocarbons (heptane, naphtha, mineral spirits), ethyl acetate, MEK, and acetone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2019-02-07T18:43:39.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8281" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-07T21:43:05.300" Score="1" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a lot of door and  window trim that I finished with a satin polyurethane. I recently started a project to finish trim in another location in my house. I somehow managed to use a different satin poly that, about half way through my project, I realized had a different finish. The can said satin as well, but it's clearly glossier than the other trim. So, can I use the old satin over the glossier finish. Should I sand it down, rough it up or something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6084" LastActivityDate="2023-03-10T09:02:00.317" Title="Refinishing over different polyurethane" Tags="|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8281" CreationDate="2019-02-08T08:59:33.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's unfortunately a common problem with different finishes that their definition of 'the same' surface finish don't match! Even gloss varnishes aren't all equivalent. This is because there's no standardisation in the finish industry and each company has their own standard for sheen on the ladder from matt to gloss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So, can I use the old satin over the glossier finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming here the two polys are the same type, either both oil-based or both waterbased, otherwise you would have noticed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So should be no problem, different finishes of the same type are all fundamentally similar and this makes them fully compatible, allowing them to be physically mixed&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; as well as used one over the other if desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should I sand it down, rough it up or something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the later poly is freshly applied it shouldn't be necessary, any more than it's necessary to sand or scuff between each coat of the same finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should do this if there are any defects in the finish, e.g. dust nibs, but you're sanding just to deal with those and not to ensure adhesion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; multiple layers of a satin finish cause a &lt;em&gt;slight&lt;/em&gt; cloudiness or milky effect because the amount of matting agent increases with each coat, not a huge deal but sometimes noticeable. With just one extra coat it may be all right, but it's possible that three coats may not look quite the same as two coats even though the surface gloss level is the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be advisable to try a coat of the previous finish on a short section to see what it looks like, rather than commit to all the trim around a window or door and then find out it doesn't look as you'd hoped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Another route&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can matt a finish down by abrading it, and you might be able to mimic the level of gloss of the first poly on the second by scuffing the latter down lightly. A fine grade of steel wool and Scotch-Brite (or similar non-woven nylon abrasive) are both good for this. Steel wool sheds little steel flakes as it wears down so it is messier to use and this could be an issue for work around the house&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the poly is still fresh enough it won't be close to fully cured and therefore won't be as hard as it will eventually be. As a result it can be scuffed with things that aren't commonly thought of as being abrasive, including the rough side of brown paper (common grocery bags &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; an acceptable source for this, thank you Bob Flexner). I've found that even coarse cloth can sometimes be enough. So again you can experiment on a small area and see what result you get. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Useful for example if you want to make your own reduced-sheen varnish from a can of matt and a can of gloss. Some waterbased finishes are an exception here as there may be pH differences from one product to another that means they can't be safely intermixed, while still safe to use sequentially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Personally I find it easier to control the sheen using steel wool. But many prefer Scotch-Brite/equivalent and are perfectly happy with how it works for them, and it is most definitely less messy in use and lasts longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-02-08T08:59:33.633" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8285" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-08T16:26:39.567" Score="1" ViewCount="112" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C2AHb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C2AHb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;What is this antique wood object?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uJbYa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uJbYa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5999" LastEditorUserId="5999" LastEditDate="2019-02-08T17:43:51.150" LastActivityDate="2019-02-08T17:43:51.150" Title="What is this antique wood object? Approx 10&quot; long" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8286" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8289" CreationDate="2019-02-08T17:24:01.120" Score="3" ViewCount="288" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FgLkk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FgLkk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;Does anyone know what this wood wedge is for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Qx1u.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Qx1u.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image1[![][1]&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5999" LastEditorUserId="2524" LastEditDate="2019-02-10T14:16:53.240" LastActivityDate="2019-02-14T17:06:32.297" Title="Does anyone know what this wood wedge is for? Approx 7&quot; Long" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8287" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-08T18:04:55.537" Score="1" ViewCount="2210" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions on filling gaps in wood flooring?&#xA;Pine tongue groove was used that is usually used for wall or ceiling.&#xA;Have no idea why they put this on the floor?&#xA;I was thinking cutting wood strips and gluing them in then sand.&#xA;Better idea may be to rip it up and put a real floor down.&#xA;Impossible to clean for the owner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DlqZf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DlqZf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Floor&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5999" LastEditorUserId="5999" LastEditDate="2019-02-08T18:38:37.087" LastActivityDate="2019-11-06T06:02:30.330" Title="Any suggestions on filling gaps in wood flooring? - Pine Tongue Groove" Tags="|wood|pine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5619" CreationDate="2019-02-08T18:09:04.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done the Sawdust/glue approach before a few times.&#xA;I made a large mixture and tinted it with stain to match the brown color of the floor. Press into gaps with putty knife, let dry and then sand and varnish.&#xA;It's not a fun process but it works!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5999" LastEditorUserId="5999" LastEditDate="2019-02-08T18:36:33.373" LastActivityDate="2019-02-08T18:36:33.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8286" CreationDate="2019-02-08T20:01:08.987" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that this is a cantilevered wine bottle holder.  It will rest with the branding down, and the neck of the bottle is inserted into the hole so that the bottle rests horizontally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a similar design:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GtOgL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GtOgL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cantilevered wine bottle holder&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2019-02-14T17:06:32.297" LastActivityDate="2019-02-14T17:06:32.297" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8287" CreationDate="2019-02-09T02:16:28.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot fill these gaps in.  Any wood floor needs to expand and contract across its width and the tongue and groove profile of the individual strips allow the floor to absorb changes in width without buckling. All wood floors will have a similar approach for the same reason.  I will grant you that pine makes for a floor that is very susceptible to scratches and dents, and the exposed screw is singularly unattractive!  If you want invisible seams consider a plastic laminate flooring in a wood pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2019-02-09T02:16:28.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8291" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8295" CreationDate="2019-02-09T08:18:30.343" Score="2" ViewCount="744" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I've done:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Made a small plate out of hard maple. Sanded it down to 220 grit sandpaper. Finished with pure tung oil (100%, not the big box stuff) over the course of about a week, giving four coats. Let sit for two weeks inside (under fan, about 70 degrees), until it no longer 'smelled' like tung oil and there was no more seepage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to see how resistant to food stains the plate was. Against cold/room temperature stuff it seemed to laugh it off - sriracha, pasta sauce, wine, etc. But when I put some warm curry powder/water paste on it and let it sit as long as the others, I had a giant bright yellow stain and the wood had roughed up a bit from me trying (and successfully) scrubbing the stain out with warm water + gentle soap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I'd like to know is:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would tung oil normally stand up to that kind of thing? Will it keep resisting stains if the food put on it is warm/hot (up to 140 degrees)? Or did I just not 'cure' the plate long enough?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If tung oil really isn't going to protect the plate from anything warm/hot, is there anything out there that will and is a &quot;natural&quot; product? Don't laugh here - I've got a lot of people asking about food safe finishes, and the only one that I've found so far that all the &quot;internet experts&quot; seem to agree on is tung oil, as most other finishes can chip off into food or don't protect well enough. I need it to meet the &quot;can't chip&quot; and &quot;after curing is non-toxic&quot; criteria. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's ok to say &quot;nope, out of luck&quot; - I can just as easily say &quot;eat your curry out of a bowl&quot; :P &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6093" LastActivityDate="2019-02-10T10:22:32.767" Title="Tung oil stain resistance" Tags="|finishing|tung-oil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8292" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8293" CreationDate="2019-02-09T16:46:39.760" Score="1" ViewCount="81" Body="&lt;p&gt;I potentially have a large amount of solid beech flooring 20mm thick, 85mm wide and various lengths. I'd like to repurpose some of it to make a work bench entirely from the beech.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm inexperienced in wood working generally, but want to experiment a bit, and would like to know if the following are possible/realistic:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Can I glue the slats together and make suitable strong table legs and other structural parts, e.g. 80x80x900.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) If I then cut mortise/tenons in there, will they then be strong enough, or will the wood break up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) For the bench top I have considered either joining the slats horizontally with two layers to produce a 40mm thick top, or putting the slats on their side to produce an 80mm top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) If I can't find long enough pieces to make the table top, and instead make the top up using overlapping shorter pieces, will that make a strong enough table top?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry if these are very basic questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-10T10:48:52.163" LastActivityDate="2019-02-10T11:07:03.103" Title="Repurpose solid beech flooring" Tags="|workbench|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8292" CreationDate="2019-02-09T20:59:18.547" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, modern wood glue is stronger than the wood it is gluing. With a good glue joint on long grain wood, you should expect no problems. A good glue joint is one where the parts mate well (in case of laminating several pieces together, they should be completely flat against each other, without any gaps), adequate glue is used (coat both parts to be glued) and adequate clamping pressure is applied (this is open for debate, but some sources say you'd need pretty high pressures for hardwood).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the table top, your main issue would be with joining shorter pieces together - you can just butt them together, as that would lead to a poor glue joint. You'd want to use a proper joint, either a long scarf joint or a finger joint. Finger joints are easily done on a router table with the right bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2019-02-09T20:59:18.547" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8291" CreationDate="2019-02-10T10:22:32.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would tung oil normally stand up to that kind of thing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. Oil finishes just don't offer the protection that other finishes can (not &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt;, can; it depends on how they're applied) despite any claims to the contrary from manufacturers/marketers and enthusiastic users.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is because oil finishes are inherently thin. Very, very thin. Most of the buildup (what little there is) occurs in the wood fibres, literally at a microscopic level, with almost no surface film being developed. It is a surface film that imparts resistance to water and stain intrusion, and simultaneously scratch-resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, any plate like this should be washed, just as all wooden items used for direct food contact should be, with the possible exception of bread boards. And this washing will naturally wear the surface down so over time protection will diminish. You've seen this already in a compressed timeframe trying to scrub the stain out, and something like the same rough surface you ended up with will eventually be the lot of the entire plate&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So as not to sugar-coat this at all, you can see some degradation of the surface of oiled items &lt;em&gt;with a single washing&lt;/em&gt;. Add in a realistic reminder that use of eating utensils including just spoons, even wooden ones, will at some point dent or actually scratch the surface and these dents or scratches undermine the finish. So, with an oiled item expect that water &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; make it through to the surface eventually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Will it keep resisting stains if the food put on it is warm/hot (up to 140 degrees)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heat softens cured oil so you can expect that a pure-tung-oil finish won't respond as well when warm or hot as at room temperature or cold (the softening comes with an expansion, which 'opens up' the cured oil and make it more permeable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Or did I just not 'cure' the plate long enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be able to expect &lt;em&gt;slightly&lt;/em&gt; better performance after a month or more. But the above comments about the relative weakness of oil finishes will still apply. You need something less permeable, and more of it, to actually impart any real resistance to water and stains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If tung oil really isn't going to protect the plate from anything warm/hot, is there anything out there that will and is a &quot;natural&quot; product? Don't laugh here&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't consider it a laughing matter as there are masses of ill-informed peeps out there giving people well-meaning but misguided (and in some cases potentially dangerous&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;) advice on this issue. On what is or isn't a food-safe issue, the real answer will I'm sure surprise you as it does most people. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the brief summary in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/6054/what-finish-is-suitable-for-a-childrens-toy/6055#6055&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;. Flexner has continued to emphasise this point in subsequent pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;and the only one that I've found so far that all the &quot;internet experts&quot; seem to agree on is tung oil&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also find similar widespread, but not universal, agreement on the safety of mineral oil (UK: liquid paraffin), one or other waxes and blends of the two&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; such as &quot;spoon butter&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in case it's not clear you are basically out of luck here, you're seeking a unicorn finish. There is nothing that most people would find acceptable that will give a close-to-the wood appearance (no surface film, which looks and feels most natural) while providing good or excellent resistance to water and stains.... if there were I suggest it would already be in widespread or nearly universal use!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to mention in closing, wooden trenchers and other food-service items would often (perhaps nearly always) have been used bare. In many cases this would have been done for no other reason than economy, but it was likely found through experience that it wasn't necessary anyway. They wouldn't have cared much about staining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Pre-raising the grain during the final stages of surface prep can diminish or remove the potential for the grain to rise when the wood does eventually get wet again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; For example, mineral oil is a suitable finish for food-prep and food-service items and it protects the wood and, often as a following point, keeps it clean. It's the last bit that is potentially dangerous as some people are going to take that ball and run too far with it by assuming that coating a piece with mineral oil means they don't have to wash it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; My opinion only: you should experiment with waxes, especially applied hot or the entire item dipped in hot wax where feasible. Ignore wax/oil blends as a dead end, blending wax with oil just weakens the protection provided by the wax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-02-10T10:22:32.767" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8292" CreationDate="2019-02-10T11:07:03.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1) can I glue the slats together and make suitable strong table legs and other structural parts, 80x80x900 e.g. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. This is quite commonly done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2) if I then cut mortise/tenons in there, will they then be strong enough, or will the wood break up? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes this is fine, particularly if you orient the glued-up legs so that you're cutting the mortises through the continuous face that will be on two sides of each leg. However, this construction affords another option and that's to form the mortises during the assembly process by leaving the space in one layer of the lamination, see &lt;strong&gt;Simplifying construction&lt;/strong&gt; in the last link at bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;3) for the bench top I have considered either joining the slats horizontally with two layers to produce a 40mm thick top, or putting the slats on their side to produce an 80mm top. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either of these could work fine in practice. The second option would generally be considered the better of the two by woodworkers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second option will make for a very heavy, stout benchtop (often desirable, especially for a bench intended for hand-tool work exclusively or primarily) but bear in mind the eventual weight of a beech slab 80mm thick! This method of construction has another advantage in many cases, with most boards being flat-sawn or plain-sawn turning them on their sides and glueing them together face to face makes for a top that is effectively quarter-sawn wood. This orients the main seasonal movement direction up/down and not across the width which comes with some advantages including, in general, greater stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;4) if I can't find long enough pieces to make the table top, and instead make the top up using overlapping shorter pieces, will that make a strong enough table top?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. This is commonly done in the manufacture of modern built-up work surfaces and benchtops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The staggered joints, although individually weak, become essentially irrelevant because they're supported by the wood around them. You want to try to space them out sensibly for maximum strength, three close together could be a weak point, but the entire structure becomes so strong you don't have to be overly concerned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Important tips&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You're going to need a lot of clamps to do this properly, and for best results they should be strong because you want to achieve high clamp pressure. The number of clamps becomes more important the thicker the piece being glued because clamp force spreads out from the point of clamping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/670/can-clamps-be-too-tight/711?r=SearchResults&amp;amp;s=11|0.0000#711&quot;&gt;Clamps cannot be too tight&lt;/a&gt; and the tighter you make them the better and more reliable your joints will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some further information from previous Answers will be of great benefit to you as an inexperienced woodworker:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/6227/how-long-after-cutting-wood-can-i-wait-to-glue/6232#6232&quot;&gt;How long after cutting wood can I wait to glue?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4151/what-do-i-need-to-do-to-prepare-wood-for-gluing/4159#4159&quot;&gt;What do I need to do to prepare wood for gluing?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2775/should-i-orient-the-cupped-sides-toward-each-other-when-laminating-boards/27812#2781&quot;&gt;Should I orient the cupped sides toward each other when laminating boards?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4316/how-to-join-short-boards-to-make-a-longer-panel/4317#4317&quot;&gt;How to join short boards to make a longer panel&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3961/what-is-the-benefit-to-gluing-boards-together-instead-of-buying-a-thicker-board/3964#3964&quot;&gt;What is the benefit to gluing boards together instead of buying a thicker board?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-02-10T11:07:03.103" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8297" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9628" CreationDate="2019-02-10T14:49:24.227" Score="5" ViewCount="617" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Context:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I own a small couch table with a pattern made of veener on top (picture 1). As far as I can tell, the tabletop consists of at least three layers: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Massive wood&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A layer of thin veneer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An unidentified but glossy coating (might be varnish or wax?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the veneer (layer 2) is intact, the unidentified coating is damaged. There are areas on the tabletop where the coating is completely rubbed off (picture 2, 3). Multiple fine cracks can be seen all over the table top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My question:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd love to get your input on my question: How can I restore / repair the table? I would prefer to do it in a way so that the tabletop becomes as pretty as it once was and as resilient as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks a lot in advance :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pictures:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Picture 1: View of the tabletop&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aTueM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aTueM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Picture 2: Detailed view of an area with damaged coating&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1fVqx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1fVqx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Picture 3: Residue of the coating on a white sheet of paper (each particle is less than 1mm in size)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XFnIQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XFnIQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6097" LastActivityDate="2019-05-25T19:15:24.683" Title="Repair / Restore Veneer Covered Table" Tags="|wood|tabletop|veneer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8298" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-10T16:51:38.503" Score="3" ViewCount="294" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to refinish my late 1940s kitched cabinets, but first I need to repair some of the veneer. In some places the veneer is badly damaged, broken, missing. In these areas I removing sections and patching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in other sections, as below, the veneer is peeling off of the surface but it has not yet fallen off (the dado is for a shelf). So my question is, what is the best way to fix this? I have some tiny glue syringes which I could use to get some glue behind the veneer, but then I will have to clamp it, and there is going to be a lot of excess glue. Maybe contact cement? Is there any chance that I could use a wallpaper steamer to gently peel back the veneer and reapply  with contact cement? Any other ideas? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TnqUo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TnqUo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image of side of kitchen cabinet showing peeling &amp;quot;pickled-oak&amp;quot; veneer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6098" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T20:08:04.117" Title="how to re-adhere veneer before refinishing" Tags="|veneer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8299" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8304" CreationDate="2019-02-11T02:31:09.273" Score="2" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making classic flower presses with children.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We'll be sandwiching from top to bottom:  a plywood sheet, cardboard, paper, flowers, paper, cardboard, and a plywood sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each corner of the plywood will be bolted and tightened with wing nuts, to press the flowers for drying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the samples I see use at least 1/2&quot; thick wood at the thinnest.  But it's pricey for a group of kids, and also heavy.  1/8&quot; thick wood squares are easy to find and much less expensive.  But I'm worried they might crack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think 1/8&quot; thick wood is strong enough for this type of application?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&#xA;Kate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2565" LastActivityDate="2019-02-11T20:43:18.050" Title="Flower Press with 1/8&quot; thick plywood" Tags="|wood|strength|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2206" CreationDate="2019-02-11T02:55:59.497" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regarding answers recommending you find a sawmill... If these boards are salvaged and could have nails in them, no one is going to do the job. They won't risk their machinery. Otherwise this is your best bet for getting these boards resawn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're clearly a novice, so realistically speaking there is no chance at all - none - that you can resaw these boards yourself. They are too large, and you have no experience. It's nothing against you; I couldn't do it either, and I have some experience and know-how.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is to sell the boards, which are likely worth quite a lot if they are in good shape, and buy the lumber that you actually want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6100" LastActivityDate="2019-02-11T02:55:59.497" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8301" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8302" CreationDate="2019-02-11T13:27:21.757" Score="1" ViewCount="292" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to do my first dining table. I know most of my research tells me that well clamped glued edges can support the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing is, I plan to use hairpin legs so the weight will be distributed at the corners but I'm thinking maybe I should reinforce the bottom?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I don't have a fancy table saw to probably create some sophisticated joinery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6101" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-02-27T08:22:43.063" LastActivityDate="2019-02-27T08:22:43.063" Title="Edge joining three 6' 2x10&quot; and 4 sturdy hairpin legs for a dining table, is it sturdy enough?" Tags="|joinery|tabletop|table-making|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8301" CreationDate="2019-02-11T15:12:45.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should be strong enough. The boards should have square and straight edges, most construction lumber is not. The lumber must be straight, dry, and of good quality. SEE: comments above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could just assemble it just using cleats on the under side with no glue just screws, this would be the simplest method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2019-02-11T15:12:45.363" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8299" CreationDate="2019-02-11T20:43:18.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest drilling more holes at regular intervals across the boards and adding clamping points. At least where I come from, flowers aren't all &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; big, and you can work around the holes. Also, get some fender washers to increase the actual clamping areas around the bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would make a wood/cardboard/cardboard/wood sandwich, then drill. Make sure you make index marks on all pieces so the the holes will line up properly when you go to clamp. Letting the kids try to assemble and clamp without paying attention to the indexing, then showing them how to arrange things and how easily it goes would also be a great, quick lesson in paying attention to detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="463" LastActivityDate="2019-02-11T20:43:18.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8305" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8306" CreationDate="2019-02-11T22:39:20.270" Score="4" ViewCount="613" Body="&lt;p&gt;My favorite lumberyard (where I get most of my bowl blanks) specializes in curly/fiddleback/birdseye maple, all of which I love for their holographic/&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chatoyancy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;chatoyant&lt;/a&gt; qualities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because I'm a beginner, I've been finishing everything first with mineral oil, then with beeswax. I like these because they're organic, foodsafe, and easy to apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as I revisit my oldest works (seeing them, for example, in a friend's house), I'm struck by how badly the finish ages - they become dull, start showing scratches easily, and generally lose their luster. Especially sad with the great figure that comes from curly maple!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's your recommendation for a durable, foodsafe finish that will help my bowls retain their chatoyancy for as long as possible? (It would be great if the end-user could refresh the finish themselves, as they can with butcher-block finish, etc, but I find my recipients rarely do this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="292" LastActivityDate="2021-11-09T01:55:49.103" Title="Most durable foodsafe finish to highlight chatoyancy" Tags="|finishing|finish-selection|turning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8305" CreationDate="2019-02-12T08:05:35.940" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As covered in a number of previous Answers, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/6054/what-finish-is-suitable-for-a-childrens-toy/6055#6055&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt;, all finishes can likely be considered food-safe once fully cured as there's no evidence to the contrary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best finish hands down, for highlighting chatoyancy is an oil, and chief among them is boiled linseed oil&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. A straight oil finish is not a very durable one as commonly applied today (virtually nobody has the time or inclination to do it &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/6856/are-oil-finishing-and-oil-polishing-complementary/6858#6858&quot;&gt;the old way&lt;/a&gt;) and even when many many layers are applied over a long period it's still not necessarily that durable&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, but what it needs to withstand hasn't been specified. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over this you'd use a hard finish, shellac would be OK and so would lacquer, but if outright durability is important oil-based polyurethane would probably be your best bet if you can't use a two-pack product with your current setup. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in summary, oil first and then something else. Note that depending on what you use you may need to wait more or less for the oil to cure — lacquer for example is sensitive to uncured oil underneath the lacquer film, shellac and oil-based poly much less so (it's perhaps not best practice but both can be successfully applied to freshly oiled wood).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Raw linseed oil works just as well but it 'dries' far too slowly to be of much practical use these days. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Oil finishes tend to remain permanently sensitive to water, and even blended finishes like &quot;Danish oil&quot; (which are enhanced by the inclusion of some varnish) are still not strictly waterproof. This means that for a fruit bowl for example they're not ideal as permanent staining will almost certainly result from weeping fruits, however it is very difficult to protect against this entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-13T08:34:03.787" LastActivityDate="2019-02-13T08:34:03.787" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1253" CreationDate="2019-02-12T23:54:20.400" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fewer holes makes more sense since it is not difficult to add more holes when or if needed.  I use my table for making signs along with other things and find that a T-track placed into a trench is useful as well - and I only have two tracks - one 25% down from the top and one one 25% up from the bottom of the table.  The clamps hold the stock from the ends not above.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6106" LastActivityDate="2019-02-12T23:54:20.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8308" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-14T19:02:51.800" Score="5" ViewCount="468" Body="&lt;p&gt;how do I make this cut into a in the middle of the length of a board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZTJIn.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZTJIn.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6115" LastActivityDate="2019-02-19T12:08:49.517" Title="rabbet cut from middle of board along length" Tags="|cut|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8308" CreationDate="2019-02-14T20:52:53.100" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend cutting this using a router, if you have one. You could use a rabbeting bit with a bearing, a router table with a fence, or clamp a board on top to act as a fence for the base of the router. These would all involve carefully starting and stopping the cut in the right place and will and leave rounded ends where the rabbet starts and ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the ends of the cut really need to be square, you can finish it with a chisel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2458" LastActivityDate="2019-02-14T20:52:53.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8308" CreationDate="2019-02-14T23:37:20.513" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In principle, you could use a plane, particularly something like a mortise butt plane. You'd need to define the edges of the rabbet with a chisel, then plane out the rabbet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't recommend it, since the plane would have little bearing surface at the edge, and keeping the cut depth uniform across the rabbet would be a miserable job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="463" LastActivityDate="2019-02-14T23:37:20.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8312" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-19T07:22:41.857" Score="1" ViewCount="48" Body="&lt;p&gt;Surely it's possible to use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flat_spline&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;flat spline&lt;/a&gt; to draw (and even jigsaw or route) an arbitrary smooth curve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some guidelines for doing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What material for the curve? What to use for ducks? Is it possible to use a router with  a guided bit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1125" LastActivityDate="2019-02-19T07:22:41.857" Title="Flat spline for curves" Tags="|template|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8308" CreationDate="2019-02-19T11:57:29.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A router (palm or plunge) can do this, using an edge guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attach the edge guide to the proper distance from the edge. This might require several passes with increasing distance from the edge. If the channel is deep mill in several passes from shallow to deep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If square corners are required a chisel will be needed to achieve them, as the router will leave rounded ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastEditorUserId="4942" LastEditDate="2019-02-19T12:08:49.517" LastActivityDate="2019-02-19T12:08:49.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8316" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-20T01:43:01.843" Score="3" ViewCount="1057" Body="&lt;p&gt;I came across this blade recently:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gz96U.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gz96U.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is an 8-tooth 10&quot; blade, part # &lt;code&gt;CB-108VA&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although I am familiar with the general principle that fewer teeth can be used for faster, rougher cuts this blade still seems a bit strange to me. Having only 8 teeth at this size seems especially rough, plus it has the very long arc sections between the teeth which seem like they would add some friction, or at least add no advantage I can think of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although on the blade it says &quot;cutting of framing materials, plywood...&quot; I'm a little skeptical of that. For plywood in particular I thought that having  a higher tooth count was generally recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, is this blade for some special purpose or circumstance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="763" LastEditorUserId="763" LastEditDate="2020-02-16T18:28:34.523" LastActivityDate="2020-10-13T15:16:45.877" Title="What is this 8-tooth 10&quot; circular saw blade intended for?" Tags="|cutting|circular-saw|saw-blade|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8316" CreationDate="2019-02-20T03:05:07.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think (??) that it was a early carbide blade as carbide was really expensive to make, I have seen similar in old Sears catalogs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2019-02-20T03:05:07.373" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7445" CreationDate="2019-02-20T03:11:12.017" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just saw this it might help you out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/making-a-simple-arc-drawing-jig/?utm_medium=email&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/making-a-simple-arc-drawing-jig/?utm_medium=email&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2019-02-20T03:11:12.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8320" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-20T07:48:55.410" Score="4" ViewCount="613" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve darkened the color of my shellac by adding dye. I’m quite satisfied with the new color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a piece brushed with several coats of the same shellac flakes without dye, and i thought i’d be able to move expertly enough to apply new darker layers over it, &lt;em&gt;evenly&lt;/em&gt;. Is this a futile enterprise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m at two coats of the darker stuff, but new layers are fusing too deep, and shades are melding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PKwc2m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PKwc2m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;shellac blend&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Click &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PKwc2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for larger image&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything i can try before getting back to the wood (sanding or spiriting away)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(before: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/q/8138/3259&quot;&gt;making shellac darker&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2019-02-27T19:21:10.997" LastActivityDate="2019-02-27T19:21:10.997" Title="Can one apply dark shellac over light shellac (satisfactorily)?" Tags="|finishing|technique|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8321" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-20T22:52:10.893" Score="2" ViewCount="2735" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a cabinet with 19mm plywood. The left vertical side is angled at 60 degrees. I am trying to find out the correct length I need to cut both the vertical and top boards, marked A and B in the picture. Using a 3D software tool, I have calculated that the inner sides 136(A) and 182(B).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could someone please advice on what the correct length is for outer sides A and B? Will I set the mitre cut at 60 for all angles?  All measurements are in mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wXiKa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wXiKa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6129" LastActivityDate="2019-02-22T16:02:18.467" Title="Calculating length of sides of angled box" Tags="|cabinetry|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8321" CreationDate="2019-02-21T07:45:00.793" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need to calculate it, you don't even need to measure it* — you can mark directly from the work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has long been the standard way this sort of thing is done in carpentry and woodworking, from before the days of widespread numeracy, the availability of calculators, and now 3D software. Make the three-sided box (doesn't have to be glued together yet), then simply 'offer up' piece A to the open end and mark it for length. This is basically the traditional way drawer fronts were sized to their openings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; be accurate enough, as it always has been. If nervous about nailing the perfect size with the first cut you can saw on the waste side of the line and then trim to a perfect fit. In the past this trimming would invariably have been done by shooting with a plane, now you might sneak up on a perfect fit on the table saw or using a belt sander. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some wiggle room if need be piece B can be cut slightly overlength with either the mitred or square end left to overhang, whichever you prefer. Then take it apart and trim to final length by whatever method you like, or flush in place by planing or with a belt sander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Although this is very easily done by drawing full size or to scale and measuring from the drawing. You can draw on the 19mm plywood you're using if you have no paper to hand!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-02-21T07:45:00.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8324" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-21T09:49:44.020" Score="3" ViewCount="236" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently building a green wall / cyclorama room, and one of its properties is that it has an infinity wall (curved walls with an X radius in all the corners).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a lot of research I decided to go with 3mm HDF for the panels. &#xA;My question is, considering that the joints between the panels will be filled with mud, sanded down, primed and painted, I cannot afford any kind of movement due to humidity or temperature changes (room will be controlled anyway), as they would crack the paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from nailing the panels (I'm using Type C staples), would you also consider glueing them? And if so, wood glue or construction glue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ojHcO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ojHcO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5985" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-21T14:21:13.213" LastActivityDate="2019-02-22T21:13:51.140" Title="Joining HDF panels and pine frame for good" Tags="|mdf|framing|hardboard|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8326" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-02-21T14:37:06.057" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are multiple kinds of hardboard made but they generally share one characteristic in that there's no added adhesive. It can be smooth on one side (S1S) or both sides (S2S) and made by either the dry process or the wet process. Additionally hardboard can be tempered or tempered. Tempering usually makes the board darker in colour, hardens the surface and makes it less fibrous or 'hairy' and increases resistant to moisture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally available in two thicknesses, 1/8&quot; and 1/4&quot; (3mm and 6mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hardboard is the original HDF or high-density fibreboard, firmer, denser and heavier than a typical MDF. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often generically referred to as masonite in the US because the Masonite Corporation was the original manufacturer and their name became synonymous with the product. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pegboard is made from hardboard, with a pattern of regular holes throughout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-21T14:37:06.057" LastActivityDate="2019-02-21T14:37:06.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8327" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-02-21T14:37:06.057" Score="0" Body="A wood-fibre board bonded together under heat and pressure. Generally made without any additional adhesive, the original lignin in the wood acting as the binding agent." OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-02-21T14:37:06.057" LastActivityDate="2019-02-21T14:37:06.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2673" CreationDate="2019-02-21T17:59:36.703" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;i’m reading about another method, which consists of building up the finish with a brush, and then do something different for the last coat to even out the finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the last coat, you’d make a mixture of 75% shellac and 25% mineral oil, and apply with a pad. I’m paraphrasing from this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/a-silky-smooth-shellac-finish/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;popular woodworking article&lt;/a&gt;. the oil allows the pad to glide easier, and you don’t have to rush as much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end, you’d remove the oil (which will float to the top) using naphta.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as answering why brush strokes are there in the first place, i can’t be of much assistance — i’m trying to figure it out too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastActivityDate="2019-02-21T17:59:36.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8330" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8357" CreationDate="2019-02-22T12:00:16.320" Score="5" ViewCount="236" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some spalted punky wood blanks I'm turning into a stool seat. How do I stabilise it so it won't tear out during hand planing? It's to big for ca glue, if i use a wood hardener can I then plane it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5498" LastActivityDate="2019-03-04T01:20:35.737" Title="Hand planing punky wood" Tags="|wood-repair|hand-planing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8321" CreationDate="2019-02-22T15:56:50.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Graphus has the right answer. It is best to mark the work piece from the other three sides of the box to accurately find the correct length. That way if any work up to this point is slightly off — if the three existing sides were cut ever so slightly shorter or longer than intended — it will not matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it can still be useful to know what the length of the side should be in theory. You can use that to plan rough cuts. Graphus correctly notes that you can get this by printing out to full scale and measuring it. I thought it might be useful to also include the way to do this with trigonometry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UOu31.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UOu31.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;OP&amp;#39;s original illustration, with additional annotations&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've taken the original drawing and added a few extra parts that will be helpful. First, the red line, labeled C, and the green line, labeled D, combine with A to form a triangle. The yellow box indicates the angle is 90°, which makes this a &lt;em&gt;right triangle&lt;/em&gt;. If we have the length of one side of a right triangle and know one of the other angles besides the one that is 90°, we can use trigonometry to find the length of any other side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We do know the length of C, because it is the same as the length of the far side, which is 138 (&lt;em&gt;or is it!? see note below&lt;/em&gt;). We also know the value of angle AD, which is 60°. Since C is on the opposite side of the triangle from angle AD, we can use the sine function. For any given angle θ, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sin(θ) = [Length of leg opposite to θ] ÷ [Length of hypotenuse]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hypotenuse is the longest side of a right triangle. It's the side opposite the right angle. In our case, side A is the hypotenuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plugging in our numbers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sin(60°) = 138 ÷ A&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;0.8660 = 138 ÷ A&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;0.8660 * A = 138&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;A = 138 ÷ 0.8660&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;A = 159.35&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of things to note about the math, for completeness sake. First, if you know the value of two angles of a triangle, you can find the third, because in all triangles, the three angles add up to 180°. Second, if you're using a calculator, beware your angle units, as SaSSafraS1232 noted. If you're working in degrees (which we woodworkers pretty much always are!) make sure the calculator is set the same way. The sine function will give different values for radians. (It's kind of like Fahrenheit vs. Celsius — the same temperature can be represented with two different values depending on your choice of units. Angles are the same way, but for degrees and radians.) Finally, if you happen to know different angles or the value of different sides than the ones listed here, you can use a different trigonometry equation. Sine, cosine, tangent, secant, cosecant, etc. There are a lot of them. Look up the definitions and find the one you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or just use an online right triangle calculator such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.analyzemath.com/Geometry_calculators/right_triangle_calculator.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;. Just be sure your angles are in degrees, and that you have the sides in the right place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final note. In math, lines are one-dimensional. They have no width or depth. In woodworking, our boards and other materials are three-dimensional! Using this diagram, it might be easy to conclude that the length of B is 273 - D. But that would be wrong! The length of B is also must include the width of side A as well as the width of the side labeled &quot;138&quot;. No widths are marked on this diagram. It's easy to start working with ideal shapes such as points and lines, and forget to account for the extra width of the material. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to do that, in my opinion, is to &lt;em&gt;not rely on math for the dimensions of final cuts&lt;/em&gt;. The math is to help you decide how to break down boards or sheet goods into rough cuts with plenty of margin for a final cut — say, maybe 1&quot; or 2 cm or so on each side. So for example, if I've calculated A to be 159.35 mm, I might do the rough cut to 160 mm + 40 mm = 200 mm, giving me about 2 cm on each side for a final cut. Or if I have started with one edge I trust is straight, I might do the rough cut at 180 mm, leaving myself 2 cm for the final cut. But regardless of how you do it or how much margin you want to give yourself, always make final cuts using the method Graphus described in his answer. Mark, don't measure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note about the length of C&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the length of C really 138? Well, that depends. Is 138 for the inside dimension? If so, then yes, C is 138. But if 138 is instead &lt;em&gt;the length of the board&lt;/em&gt;, then C is 138 - [width of top] - [width of bottom]. See how the 3D nature of our material can trip us up? Be careful!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But also, this is another good reason to give ourselves plenty of margin in the rough cut. If you're working with 19 mm plywood and you gave yourself 20 mm per side, forgetting to account for the widths would lose you some of your margin, but you'd still be okay when it comes time to make the final cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2019-02-22T16:02:18.467" LastActivityDate="2019-02-22T16:02:18.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8320" CreationDate="2019-02-22T17:37:50.270" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some finishes, especially catalyzed ones, will be impervious to further coats which will build up in layers. In other finishes, especially solvent based ones like shellac and most lacquers, the solvent in subsequent coats will dissolve the underlying layers to some extent depending on several factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt you will achieve layering your different tones via brushing; brushing prolongs the contact time and offers some agitation, both of which encourage the new layer to mix with the old. The best way to achieve this tonal layering would be spraying thin coats under warm conditions. When I do &quot;wash coats&quot; of shellac on guitars the coat will be dry to the touch in seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say, lacking spraying capacity, you are best off removing the existing finish and applying coats of only one tone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2762" LastActivityDate="2019-02-22T17:37:50.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8333" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-22T19:59:50.627" Score="4" ViewCount="178" Body="&lt;p&gt;I snagged the image below while looking online for dovetail examples. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DxrMU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DxrMU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of two boards coming together, it appears that the joint, what I called the spine in the title, is a third piece to which both boards connect. (Example 1, 2, 4, and 6 reading left to right)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a particular name for this type of join that differentiates it among other dovetails? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would this have any effect on the strength of the joint? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5460" LastEditorUserId="5460" LastEditDate="2019-02-22T21:21:35.473" LastActivityDate="2019-02-22T21:21:35.473" Title="Dovetailed spine?" Tags="|strength|dovetail|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8333" CreationDate="2019-02-22T20:08:08.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, this will have an effect on the strength of the joint. Since the &quot;spine&quot; (I like your name for it) is one piece of wood, with all of the grain running in the same direction, one of the sets of pins will be cut across the grain, instead of along the grain, making it pretty weak in that dimension. Also, if there's any looseness in the fit of the joints, that will be compounded by the fact that you have twice as many joints now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much that actually matters depends on the application. If it's a decorative piece that won't be handled much, the unique look could be worth the tradeoff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I don't know if there's a name for this.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5190" LastEditorUserId="5190" LastEditDate="2019-02-22T20:31:20.463" LastActivityDate="2019-02-22T20:31:20.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8324" CreationDate="2019-02-22T21:13:51.140" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not enough rep on this site to comment, but I would agree with @Graphus - there's definitely some advantage from a stability-standpoint to having the panels battened down with some construction adhesive.  I would also suggest that to minimize any twist in the floating(ish?) framing, that you block off between the studs, creating a big &quot;torsion box&quot;.&#xA;Best of luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2280" LastActivityDate="2019-02-22T21:13:51.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8336" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-25T23:49:50.997" Score="3" ViewCount="520" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never done any woodwork in my life but I wanted to try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought about making a simple shelf consisting of a few small crate-like boxes (Each box being 60cm in Length, 15cm in Width and 20cm in Height and the shelf itself would be about 120cm tall, or 6-crates tall) and was think about having a 2cmX2cm long vertical square &quot;pole&quot; at the corners and a 1cmx2cm rail instead of a full side for each crate that would meet at the corners in a channel carved in the poles and touch in a 45º edge to the other rail of a corner. Something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gfpUu.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gfpUu.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Left to Right: 2cmX2cm pole with the 2cmX1cm channel cut through, the side rails in place, topside view of the join area ignoring the rest of the pole that would be on top of the joint)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Idea for each crate would be something like this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IyQD2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IyQD2.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Top-down and Side views of each crate, respectively)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to know if I use solid wood for the poles and plywood for the rails and bottom of each crate, in the dimensions mentioned, would it be strong enough? Do I need thicker plywood/wood for the structure to be able to hold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine this can be hard to predict, but I hoped someone experienced would have a better view on that and maybe point some obvious mistake I can't see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you very much for the attention!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6145" LastEditorUserId="6145" LastEditDate="2019-02-26T16:39:53.927" LastActivityDate="2019-03-03T05:10:55.633" Title="Minimum Plywood Thickness for small &quot;crate&quot;" Tags="|plywood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8338" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8348" CreationDate="2019-02-26T17:39:16.557" Score="2" ViewCount="646" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can be convinced that this is &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/q/3345/5572&quot;&gt;a duplicate of this other Q&amp;amp;A&lt;/a&gt;, but there isn't much there that seems to pertain to preservation of already well-dried wood art pieces. But I'll go along with what the community decides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We recently were given a few small pieces of marquetry artwork that are a decade or so old at this point. These are not fine art pieces, but rather examples of Indian handcrafts purchased in that country as souvenirs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I do apologize for not posting photos, but I forgot to capture examples before I left home today. I will update this question with examples if it will help.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over the years, the North American climate has caused some of the pieces of marquetry to split, though the glue has held up surprisingly well. I'm told they have lost some contrast over the years, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From our perspective, the aging just adds to their charm, so no one wants to treat these like museum pieces. In the interest of preserving these as-is, what finish recommendations for maintaining wood health (e.g., discouraging anything that might want to treat the artwork as a food source, minimizing further checking) would people have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The existing &quot;finish&quot; is unknown, if it was finished at all. The surfaces are very matte, with a fair amount of gaps between the pieces that show no varnish or poly style finishes. It &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; have been oiled at some point by the original craftsperson.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of just treating these like a cutting board or a spoon; some sort of stable mineral oil and/or beeswax (for no other reason other than that is what I have handy). I've also been reading about proprietary wood preservers and the old stand-by of PEG as a first or only step; but these pieces are not at all green, which is what most discussion assumes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I'm open to suggestion for any minimal finish that just keeps things as-is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;We don't care if the finish is darkened; this will actually add to the look, as the original intention was to combine light and dark wood for effect. So a finish that increases contrast is ok.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Something that is shiny or an &quot;obvious&quot; finish is less desirable, as the original look is rather raw and hand-made.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Full disclosure: I mention pests. There are unconfirmed reports that some sort of insect had to be cleaned off of these pieces after they were in storage (perhaps someplace in the South-East US, but this is a guess). There are no obvious pests on them now, and no obvious pest damage, but if that is a consideration there you have it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also accept &quot;leave it alone; it's been fine for decades so why mess with it&quot;. And given that I will probably &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; want to touch this with anything other than a soft cloth (i.e., no sanding between coats!) this is a totally reasonable answer. But we may as well harness the power of the Stack to see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-02-28T17:03:12.810" LastActivityDate="2019-03-01T08:45:53.560" Title="Recommended finish to preserve older marquetry artwork" Tags="|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6345" CreationDate="2019-02-27T16:03:55.130" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get yourself a nice piece of hardwood and make a new table. You can include a mitre slot and maybe make it a bit larger too. Looks like a nice little saw for 80 bucks. I imagine it's useful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to put together a fence for it that's at least as good as the existing one too. I see a lot of plans/tutorials for building table saw fences on the Internet, so I'd guess that those could be resized appropriately (Example: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularmechanics.com/home/how-to-plans/how-to/a19952/make-a-wooden-fence-for-your-table-saw/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Make a Wooden Fence For Your Table Saw&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastActivityDate="2019-02-27T16:03:55.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8340" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8341" CreationDate="2019-02-27T16:15:59.827" Score="0" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pantry door in my kitchen is a hollow-core door. There's quite a lot of wasted space between the door and the existing shelves, that I'd like to utilize by hanging full-width, full-height, 8&quot;-10' shelves on the inside surface of the door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plans I've worked up suggest that the shelves, when full, would be supporting quite a bit of weight, and I'm concerned that the hollow-core door won't be able to support it adequately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How difficult is it to replace one door with another using the existing frame/jams, etc. It seems pretty straight-forward, but something tells me that there's more to it than I imagine... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this something that is worth doing, or is it a rabbit-hole of pain and disappointment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2019-02-27T16:26:21.053" LastActivityDate="2019-02-27T16:35:39.343" Title="How hard is it to replace a hollow-core door with a solid one?" Tags="|door|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2019-03-15T22:23:58.197" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8340" CreationDate="2019-02-27T16:35:39.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've replaced about half-a-dozen doors over time.  The old ones were mostly very tatty, old, solid-wood doors (rather than hollow-core), but that doesn't matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important point is that the &lt;em&gt;new&lt;/em&gt; doors are solid wood.  This is because the new doors need to fit (exactly) the existing door-frames ... and it is a lot easier to cut 10mm off the side of a solid door than it is with a hollow-core.  Obviously measure the door frame carefully (and if you have an old house, don't assume it is rectangular!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing the doors themselves is relatively straightforward.  The thing I would be more worried about, is the jams: can they take the load?  You might also want to consider having more and bigger hinges to take the load - but you'll probably want new hinges anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd go for it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1646" LastActivityDate="2019-02-27T16:35:39.343" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8343" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-28T14:32:11.797" Score="1" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently started using this desk, last used by an old relative I'm very fond of.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wJ7xK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wJ7xK.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a wide array of scratches and marks on it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qM0oW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qM0oW.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like that it's worn, but I'd like to know if it's possible to restore it without also damaging some of the existing features (like the look of the different woods). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm expecting any range of answers from &quot;Boot polish/tea bags on the bits that are worn&quot; to &quot;taking it apart is the only way&quot;, all welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1822" LastActivityDate="2019-03-03T05:18:10.660" Title="Is it possible to repair scratches to this sort of wear?" Tags="|furniture|restoration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8343" CreationDate="2019-02-28T14:44:11.260" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, but only with great effort. You can use stain to cover them up though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it's a little hard to tell from the pictures, but the desk appears to be finished with a stain or glaze, followed by a glossy protective topcoat. Removing scratches completely is basically impossible without sanding down the entire surface and refinishing. I would recommend making your peace with this sort of of wear, and accepting them as patina. If the light color is unsightly, there are some products you can use to make them blend in better (although you will still feel the presence of scratches/dents when you run your hand over). These are generally sold as scratch covers/removers. You can of course use shoe polish. I would recommend trying lighter shades first, as the bare wood is likely to suck up the stain and appear darker than the liquid does. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2019-02-28T14:44:11.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8345" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-28T17:47:17.580" Score="4" ViewCount="8993" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have four 4'x8' 3/4&quot; sheets of plywood glued and screwed together to make an 8'x8' platform. Do I have to allow the wood glue to dry for the full 24 hours before I start staining, or can I start applying stain after the glue is set? (about 30 minutes)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Gorilla wood glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastActivityDate="2019-03-01T08:02:44.817" Title="How long do I have to wait for glue to dry before staining?" Tags="|staining|glue|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8345" CreationDate="2019-02-28T19:24:42.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sort of depends on a couple things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you have glue squeeze-out remaining on your platform? In general, you want to clean up squeeze-out during the build process (another topic entirely) because it will show up in the finished product. Even aside from that, if there's not-fully-cured glue on the surfaces you're finishing, the glue may foul the stain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will the staining process put the glue joints under any mechanical stress? (I didn't get a good mental image of what your platform looks like.) If so, you'll want to wait for the glue to cure so you'll get full adhesion first, otherwise you may pull the joints apart just by handling the piece. This is usually the case.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5190" LastActivityDate="2019-02-28T19:24:42.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8345" CreationDate="2019-03-01T08:02:44.817" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How long do I have to wait for glue to dry before staining?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer to this generally is, it depends. All the local conditions and individual variables&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; work together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the specifics of your build, with the plywood screwed together along with the screws, you can begin finishing much earlier than in other situations where you wouldn't want to remove clamps too early — here the screws are the clamps and they're permanently part of the structure, meaning the two sheets of ply glued together face to face can't move relative to each other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would caution that 30 minutes isn't a long enough wait. I'm sure many have done this bonding together plywood and other sheet goods and think everything has gone perfectly but it's much safer to leave it at least a couple of hours, and longer if it's cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to mention, the 24 hours quoted for the full drying time is really generous. Even in challenging conditions it would usually take far less time than this for you to be safe in assuming a glue joint is fully dry, perhaps 6-8 hours, although you could give yourself a safety margin and wait a full half day. Only when bonding two surfaces where one isn't bare wood (so therefore can't absorb water from the glue) would I wait 24 hours or longer, and even that may be excessively cautious. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which leads on to my next point, erring on the side of caution. There's never a downside to waiting longer before disturbing glued pieces or putting them under light stress, while there most definitely is to not waiting long enough — removing clamps too early is likely one of the three most common causes of glue-line failures&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; The humidity and temperature, the MC of the wood being used, whether the surface of the wood is old &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4151/what-do-i-need-to-do-to-prepare-wood-for-gluing/4159#4159&quot;&gt;or was refreshed&lt;/a&gt;, how much glue you apply and how much of it is squeezed out during clamping (bearing in mind screws don't apply very very high clamping pressure evenly across your sheets) and last but not least the exact glue you're using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; The others being not applying enough glue in the first place and waiting too long after applying glue to bring the two pieces together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-03-01T08:02:44.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8338" CreationDate="2019-03-01T08:45:53.560" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are so many options you could use here — you could in essence use nearly anything — and at the end of the day anything you pick is going to be a compromise of some sort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A natural oil will maximise contrast (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/8305/most-durable-foodsafe-finish-to-highlight-chatoyancy/8306#8306&quot;&gt;Most durable foodsafe finish to highlight chatoyancy&lt;/a&gt; from just a short while ago) but excess needs to be scrupulously removed, especially from recessed corners, to avoid gummy/sticky residue and the wiping/brushing needed to do this might pose a risk of dislodging pieces. In addition straight oils don't discourage insect or fungal attack&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would personally be inclined towards using a film finish, applied very thinly so as not to build a film. Any very thin or dilute finishes give the look of finished wood without any obvious surface film and dilute wiping varnish or shellac applied similarly thinly (i.e. a &quot;washcoat&quot; or &quot;spit coat&quot;) are two good choices here. As these are hard materials when they impregnate the surface wood fibres they harden the surface and improve dust resistance better than straight oils do. Wiping varnish, being an oil-based finish, will enhance the grain although not quite to the degree of a straight oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Waxing is something to consider. I wouldn't normally suggest wax as I'm against using it alone as a finish because it provides so little protection but it's fine for decorative pieces and items that see little or no handling. Applying the wax and buffing to a sheen may again pose a risk of disturbing pieces but both processes can be done carefully with soft brushes (think shining shoes) so little pressure is applied directly to the surface&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. Waxes are inert and won't promote insect attack, although I don't believe they'll do much or anything to deter it either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you say yourself though, doing nothing at all to them &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; actually a viable option, as it is with lots of things. Here their slightly worn, aged look could be seen as a large part of their charm..... even if it isn't how they looked when new, q.v. most present-day antique appreciation!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Although this can be improved with borax or other additives which may or may not be available, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2318/can-low-durability-be-mitigated-with-specific-finishes&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for a little on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; If you're keen on trying this I would buy a commercial paste wax or make your own (brief instructions given at the end of &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1476/table-saw-top-treatment/1484#1484&quot;&gt;this Answer&lt;/a&gt;) then scoop out a spoonful and thin it to the consistency of softened butter or mayo that can be applied by gentle brushing. This will also mean a very small amount of wax is applied to the surface, which will be easiest to buff to a sheen. I do something similar to this when waxing old hand planes rather than using paste wax 'at full strength' so to speak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-03-01T08:45:53.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8349" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-01T11:24:32.737" Score="2" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to fix a patch on a guitar, but every time I spray I get this odd fisheye effect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AL6kA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AL6kA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to spray it with Sunburst Black &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.stewmac.com/Materials_and_Supplies/Finishing_Supplies/ColorTone_Black_Aerosol_Guitar_Lacquer.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.stewmac.com/Materials_and_Supplies/Finishing_Supplies/ColorTone_Black_Aerosol_Guitar_Lacquer.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to use something before this? I am cleaning the surface with naphtha. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6157" LastActivityDate="2019-03-01T11:24:32.737" Title="Touching up Guitar Body" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8350" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-02T12:32:42.417" Score="3" ViewCount="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read that for paint the solids content indicates something about the quality of the paint in the sense that higher solids probably means fewer coats required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this also the case for stains? Since stains are intended to be translucent I could imagine that the solids content could correlate with the darkness of the color, for instance, and have nothing to do with how well the finish will wear or age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, the Bona Drifast &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bona.com/Global/Documents/United%20States/Technical%20Data%20Sheets/TDS%20Bona%20DriFast%20Stain%20-%20Classic%20US.pdf?epslanguage=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;technical data sheet&lt;/a&gt; says: &lt;code&gt;Solids – 35-47%&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and the Minwax &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.paintdocs.com/docs/webPDF.jsp?SITEID=STORECAT&amp;amp;lang=E&amp;amp;doctype=PDS&amp;amp;prodno=1543420&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TDS&lt;/a&gt; states &lt;code&gt;% Solids: 40.0-45.6&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aassuming the solids content &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; a measure of quality, what's a reasonable minimum value to have confidence the stain will hold up over time (say, 10-20 years)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(All else being equal... obviously there are other factors which influence finish robustness as well.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="763" LastActivityDate="2019-03-02T12:32:42.417" Title="What solids content does a hardwearing wood / floor stain need to have?" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8336" CreationDate="2019-03-03T05:10:55.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not sure of the metric sizes but 1/4&quot; baltic birch* ply with a frame of 3/4&quot; x 1 1/2&quot; of a construction grade wood has worked for me on a crate about 24&quot; x 12&quot; x 5&quot; was shipped several times. Sorry for the imperial measurements we should in the US have gone metric many years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*lauan plywood will also work although not nearly as durable&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2019-03-03T05:10:55.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8343" CreationDate="2019-03-03T05:18:10.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start with a colored oil based poly (Polyshades) or varnish close to the sheen and colour, then use artist oils to match the colour. This process can be a little tedious mix in small batches adjusting very slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2019-03-03T05:18:10.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6345" CreationDate="2019-03-03T05:33:42.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A square block of wood against the fence makes a fair miter gauge for 90° cuts you can make a 45° for the 45's, I have to use this method on my 1930's vintage band saw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Peter Millard's Bandsaw Makeover P1 &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EGgwDYl7T9M&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video # 293&lt;/a&gt; shows his upgrade of his cheap bandsaw, there is also a part 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2019-03-05T19:23:13.787" LastActivityDate="2019-03-05T19:23:13.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8354" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-03T09:17:21.870" Score="2" ViewCount="3396" Body="&lt;p&gt;Except for being more careful, are there any tips or tricks for preventing the final splitting when using a handsaw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6165" LastEditorUserId="3562" LastEditDate="2019-03-12T19:26:50.540" LastActivityDate="2019-03-15T02:52:04.677" Title="How to saw wood without the final splitting?" Tags="|technique|hand-tools|cutting|hand-saw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8354" CreationDate="2019-03-03T13:47:32.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simplest is simply to put some masking tape on the exit area. This will (more or less) hold the wood fibers in place and prevent the saw teeth from splitting them off the body of the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this will work best for tough woods and sharp, fast saws, since the less stress you put on the fibers the better, and the smaller the cut per tooth the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, depending on your tools and wood, you may need to clamp a piece of scrap backing wood to the exit area. Then the cut at the real piece will be smooth, but you may have tearout on the sacrificial piece - which doesn't matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT. There is a third way, but I don't recommend it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start a normal cut, and go nearly all the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stop, reverse the wood, and use the kerf to guide the saw in the opposite direction. Continue the cut until partway through the exposed edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now flip the board and make another cut like the second but finish the cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory, all cuts are made with the surface fibers being pushed into the surface of the wood, and tearout will not occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there will be opportunities for the edges of the cuts to not line up exactly, leaving an end which is not a smooth surface and which shows the three cuts. This might not be a problem for ends which will not be exposed, but the whole technique is fiddly and I don't recommend it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="463" LastEditorUserId="463" LastEditDate="2019-03-15T02:52:04.677" LastActivityDate="2019-03-15T02:52:04.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8356" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-03T23:12:04.347" Score="4" ViewCount="1519" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm &lt;strong&gt;very&lt;/strong&gt; new to woodworking (I've only just started out in an online course), and I've been trying my best to educate myself on safe practices. Recently, I've been thinking about how rabbets are cut on the table saw with a dado stack. Having never used a table saw, I've been looking around online to see how it's done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VbS0-nSCrzo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This helpful video&lt;/a&gt; has some interesting tips, particularly about cutting the rabbet against a sacrificial fence. My primary question is how you handle rabbets that are ultimately wider than the stack can accommodate in one pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, suppose that I want to cut a rabbet that's 3/4 of an inch in width (to accept a 3/4 inch wide piece of plywood). Some small job-site table saws can only accommodate a narrow dado stack, due to a short arbor length. For this example, assume the dado stack is only 3/8 of an inch wide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would the rabbet in this situation be cut? Would the first pass be against a sacrificial fence, cutting the outermost edge away first, followed by moving the fence away from the blade to make the second pass?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, how do you safely cut a wider rabbet (or dado) than the dado stack can physically go? I want to avoid kickback as much as I can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5810" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2021-12-14T13:11:57.153" LastActivityDate="2021-12-14T13:11:57.153" Title="Cutting rabbets against the fence with a table saw" Tags="|table-saw|safety|dado|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8330" CreationDate="2019-03-04T01:20:35.737" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Minwax makes a hardener that will harden up punky wood to a point (your mileage may vary).  I've used it and am a fan, particularly for water damage on a house where the wood is typically pine or fir.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.minwax.com/wood-products/maintenance-repair/minwax-high-performance-wood-hardener&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.minwax.com/wood-products/maintenance-repair/minwax-high-performance-wood-hardener&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other option would be to buy Cactus Juice and stabilize with vacuum.  They sell bags to handle odd/large sized wood, and of course, you would have to have some oven to set/cook the resin.  Google Cactus Juice for more information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastActivityDate="2019-03-04T01:20:35.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8359" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-05T18:10:39.457" Score="3" ViewCount="254" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I got a great deal on a used 25&quot; Performax drum sander this past weekend.  It needs a little repair - specifically, one of the drums needs to be replaced.  But it works fine as a single drum unit until I get around to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I decided to try it out on a Ponderosa pine slab that I have around.  About 15&quot; wide by 3' long and maybe 2&quot; thick.  I've had this in my shop in bone-dry Colorado (summer humidity can reach the single digits) for about 9 months.  Not sure how long the sawyer had it, but it was stored inside, stacked &amp;amp; stickered, when I bought it and was from timber dead at least 5 years (forest fire salvage).  Felt dry then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I was taking light passes - about 1/8 of a turn.  Don't know what that comes to in inches.  And slow feeds.  But the paper loaded up like crazy, particularly over knots.  The 80 grit that was on it succumbed quickly.  Swapped it for some new 60 grit Al oxide, and that only lasted for about 6-8 passes as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried using one of those rubber sand paper cleaning sticks between passes - and a wire brush when it started getting bad.  I'm running dust collection on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?  Maybe a heavier grit for roughing it in?  Or is this just what I should expect with a resin heavy wood like Ponderosa knots?&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yoRIY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RcxjL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ran a big walnut slab through several times yesterday, and no loading at all!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2019-03-10T17:08:28.793" LastActivityDate="2019-03-10T17:08:28.793" Title="Tips for reducing sandpaper loading on drum sander" Tags="|sander|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8360" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-07T00:51:02.970" Score="1" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently, I only have a trim router, which is very weak. So I've decided to buy a invertible plunge router, but I'm not sure about which one to buy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a limited number of plunge routers I can buy in my region, which are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1200W, worth R$510 (about US$130)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1800W, worth R$1780 (about US$460)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2100W, worth R$2049 (about US$480)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There're also some Makita MG routers, but I have used a MG trim router before and I didn't like it, so I'm crossing these off the list. I know the price tag between the two Makitas may seem small, but with such difference I could buy a belt sander or some router bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know there're some other issues besides HP, such as overall product quality, availability of maintenance services, warranty, etc. But the difference in the price tag is huge, so I'm not sure about not buying the cheaper option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to use this mainly to route handles (such as the ones in wood crates) into 2cm thick wood and route 5mm deep dadoes, mostly in pine and plywood. I do lots of theses, I've literally spent 3 days last week doing a bunch of these handles with a trim router and at least 1 day doing dadoes with a jobsite saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never used a plunge router before, so I don't know: is my effort going to be much smaller if I have a 2100W router available instead of 1200W or a 1800W one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5226" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2019-03-07T04:50:38.557" LastActivityDate="2019-03-07T09:53:59.443" Title="Choosing a plunge router by power" Tags="|router|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8360" CreationDate="2019-03-07T09:44:03.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've decided to buy the most expensive one, as I was already leaning towards to. Not due to power or cost, but because it accomodates router bits with larger shank (12mm vs 8mm on the cheapest one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5226" LastEditorUserId="5226" LastEditDate="2019-03-07T09:53:59.443" LastActivityDate="2019-03-07T09:53:59.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8364" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-07T18:32:22.787" Score="3" ViewCount="984" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made these stair treads out of reclaimed Douglas fir. The wood is gorgeous! Some of the stairs stained amazing and a couple have these much lighter spots where the wood didn't seem to take the stain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did I mess up with my process or is this just how Douglas fir works? How  is it suppose to look? First time working with reclaimed wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sanded 80 grit- I read not to go higher than 80 to help the grain pop?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;50/50 denatured alcohol/shellac &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Minwax gel stain coffee&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lifFA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RjIdI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0oZ5V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love the markings and chose the darker color with the intention of getting them to stand out. I edited my pics and circled the spots I’m talking about. It’s these spots that came out even lighter that I don’t know about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6183" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-03-10T15:33:29.883" LastActivityDate="2019-03-13T09:16:09.447" Title="Douglas fir stair treads spots not staining?" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8359" CreationDate="2019-03-07T19:34:02.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wood-database.com/pond-pine/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;per the Wood Database&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Overall, Pond Pine works fairly well with most tools, though the resin&#xA;  can gum up tools and clog sandpaper. Pond Pine glues and finishes&#xA;  well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They claim Ponderosa Pine is a related species. These softwoods are easy to work, but they are an excellent source of tool-gumming resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, the same site &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wood-database.com/ponderosa-pine/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;claims&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ponderosa pine works well with both hand and machine tools. Glues and&#xA;  finishes well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without any mention of resin. But these species are all pretty resinous, so my inclination is to assume they would work the same with respect to sandpaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you want to try planing, or even hand-scraping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-03-07T22:05:07.053" LastActivityDate="2019-03-07T22:05:07.053" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6763" CreationDate="2019-03-09T03:33:07.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a method that works great to get the wax deep into the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I preheat my oven to 175F and then turn it off but leave the light on to provide some additional heat. I then let the heat even out and cool to about 150F. I put the cutting board in the warm oven, and when it is heated through I take it out and rub it with raw bees wax like a big crayon. I buff it in with a small piece of microfiber scrubby and put it back in the oven to melt and absorb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repeat when the board gets dull. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found that treating a board with a coconut/coco butter/bee wax mix the first time (using the same heat/apply/reheat method ad for wax) helps condition the board but it may go rancid over time and may not be best for long life items. I use cheap bamboo or wood boards a lot but have never had one go rancid on me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6187" LastActivityDate="2019-03-09T03:33:07.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8367" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8368" CreationDate="2019-03-09T09:00:33.707" Score="2" ViewCount="55" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have my bed in a corner of the room and I want to elevate it.&#xA;I don't like any of the IKEA solutions and the like because I want the corner of the bed that is away from the walls to be free.&#xA;So I've made my own project &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dh33T.png&quot; alt=&quot;Elevated bed&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've made it with this free android app&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=jquinn.qubism.android&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=jquinn.qubism.android&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;You can get the project and explore it in more detail here&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/mxg4r9gjd414zaj/5ae1753a-7a34-4761-a357-c30bf3196f54.json?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.dropbox.com/s/mxg4r9gjd414zaj/5ae1753a-7a34-4761-a357-c30bf3196f54.json?dl=0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The red wall cannot bear any weight, but he other wall is concrete.&#xA;I would like to avoid turning the bed (so that the pillar can be fastened to the bearing wall) because this would take away the space for a desk.&#xA;My plan is to just make the pillar fit exactly the height of the room so that it locks in (split it in two pieces, a main tall one and a smaller top that I can slide in), basically leaving no room for the pillar to tip.&#xA;I am counting on this being able to sustain any weight and pulling I might stress on the far end of the crossbeam, since the ceiling is also concrete.&#xA;I would also run a cable from the joint between the pillar and the  crossbeam toward the concrete wall, to put some tension and fasten everything together in that direction.&#xA;I am planning to use 15x15cm massive wood for pillar and crossbeam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my very first own wood project&#xA;- Do you seen any flaws in the plan?&#xA;- Do you have improvements?&#xA;If you think it can work&#xA;- What kind of joint would you make between the pillar and crossbeam? I simply plan to cut out 5cm out of each and insert them into each other, the the bolt for the cable would fasten them together but would not need to bear any weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6181" LastActivityDate="2019-03-09T16:14:33.927" Title="Suggestions on improving an elevated-bed project?" Tags="|design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8367" CreationDate="2019-03-09T16:14:33.927" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This design is NOT ready for prime time!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wedging the main column from the floor to ceiling is not adequate.  Every structure has movement and changes size a bit as the seasons change.  What is a tight fit now, may not be in six months or a year.  The column should be physically anchored to the floor and ceiling with mechanical fasteners.  The floor connection can be a standard column base available from big box stores, but it must be connected with bolts or tapcons (assuming a concrete floor).  IF it is a wood frame floor you may need to open the floor deck up and reinforce the wood framing. You do not mention the construction for the ceiling, but the column must anchor to a securely as to the floor.  The connections must also resist twist to prevent the column from rotating along its vertical axis.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The connect between the horizontal beam and column must be secured with bolts to prevent the beam from pulling out away column.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The beam and the diagonal brace must be of adequate size to support the loads and rotational force the bed load will place on the composite support structure.  I would actually recommend talking to a structural engineer about the sizes. The fact that the beam cantilevers beyond the diagonal support creates additional structural stress on the beam member.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bed resting on the beam at the foot of the bed will also apply a twisting load on the beam's horizontal axis and the beam must be have enough width to resist that twist.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One way to resist the twist in the beam and rotation of the column would be to put a framing member from the concrete wall to the outside corner of the beam.  A similar framing member along the face of the red wall would help stabilize the column.  In other words, create a bed support frame on all four sides to support the bed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Secure the manufactured bed on the beams at the head and foot with secure fasteners.  The connections of the head and foot of the bed to the mattress support frame may not be adequate to insure it stays on the narrow ledges in the structural beams you are designing. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep in mind getting in  and out of the bed will place lots of horizontal forces on the structure at the level of the bed  itself, both from getting in and out of it and moving around on top of it.  When a bed is on the floor these are resisted close to bed frame itself.  In this design the forces travel longer which amplify the loads like a lever does. Everything must be stronger and securely fastened.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other possible solutions for your project.  This may be the best approach for you situation, but I would encourage you to consider others before proceeding as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2019-03-09T16:14:33.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="425" CreationDate="2019-03-10T03:42:28.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found you can do a lot of wood work with a multi-tool.  I think you could use one with a 1/2 circle blade to cut a biscuit slot.  I'd make a jig with some scrap and a clamp or two to rest your stock on to be able to achieve repetitive accuracy if you're cutting multiple slots.  You can buy a quality battery-powered multi-tool for right at $100 if you shop a little and I think you'll find lots of uses down the road.  Also get some hearing protectors, cause these tools are loud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6192" LastActivityDate="2019-03-10T03:42:28.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8370" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-03-10T22:27:18.527" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions concerning the carving of wood into figures or sculptural ornamentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;May be used for Sloyd or carving of green wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3562" LastEditorUserId="3562" LastEditDate="2019-03-12T19:26:39.247" LastActivityDate="2019-03-12T19:26:39.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8371" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-03-10T22:27:18.527" Score="0" Body="Use for questions concerning the carving of wood into figures or sculptural ornamentation." OwnerUserId="3562" LastEditorUserId="3562" LastEditDate="2019-03-12T19:26:53.367" LastActivityDate="2019-03-12T19:26:53.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2398" CreationDate="2019-03-11T03:48:05.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A belt sander mounted upside down (preferably in a jig) works adequately to quickly and easily remove material. Just remember to regularly cool the steel by dipping in water and don’t forget to remove the dust bag or you will have a fire risk!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For fine work you will want to finish the chisel on a oil or diamond stone but for general carpentry just remove the burr and you’re ready to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have sharpened chisels this way literally thousands of times and will often use this method over my Tormek water-cooled grinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6193" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-03-12T19:25:12.447" LastActivityDate="2019-03-12T19:25:12.447" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8248" CreationDate="2019-03-11T03:56:50.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually this noise is created due to thermal expansion. The roofing screws for polycarbonate sheeting should have a big enough flexible washer so that you can pre drill a hole in the sheeting around twice the diameter of the screw to allow for movement. This should prevent much of the noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6193" LastActivityDate="2019-03-11T03:56:50.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7966" CreationDate="2019-03-11T04:09:34.903" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As with any tool, would recommend the best quality saw you can afford. Beyond that an aluminum base plate and good blade visibility (not obstructed by the motor) so you can see what you are doing are the most important features in my opinion. Rail saws are fantastic but expensive.  You can achieve fairly straight cuts by just clamping a straight edge to the work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6193" LastActivityDate="2019-03-11T04:09:34.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8010" CreationDate="2019-03-11T04:15:11.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used hot glue on occasion to form a “dam” around the perimeter of the resin. Simple and effective. Hot glue guns and sticks are very cheap. Easy to remove later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6193" LastActivityDate="2019-03-11T04:15:11.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3841" CreationDate="2019-03-11T05:14:58.310" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why do you need the dowel to be fluted?&#xA;If you are worried about blowout (glue/ hydraulic pressure buildup) just plane a small flat spot on the dowel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6193" LastActivityDate="2019-03-11T05:14:58.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8377" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-11T12:10:45.850" Score="4" ViewCount="871" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't yet have a table saw (just starting out and learning quickly here), but did come by a nice, used sliding compound miter saw from a friend who no longer had a need for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue I'm running into is that cuts I make on wider boards (10&quot; or so) have an inconsistent kerf width, so when I go to join two cuts together the don't fit squarely because that cut is inconsistent across its length. I've carefully observed the effect and noticed that the wider portion of the kerf is closer to me where blade has effectively gone through it twice: the first time when the blade first makes contact with the board and travels through it, and the second time when the opposite end of the blade finishes traveling through it as I push the saw back towards its docked position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've spent a lot of time trying to square up the entire saw, playing with the fence, the 90° angle, and best as I can tell (which may be limited) everything is pretty on the line. But this issue of a wider kerf on essentially half of the cut on all my boards is stopping me from really being able to put anything together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What steps should I be taking to try and make these cuts clean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6194" LastEditorUserId="3562" LastEditDate="2019-03-12T19:25:30.737" LastActivityDate="2019-03-12T21:28:15.470" Title="Sliding miter saw's kerf too wide at one end of board" Tags="|cutting|miter-saw|square|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="50" CreationDate="2019-03-11T12:46:58.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a very natural looking but still durable finish, look into hard wax oils, they come in different gloss levels but “raw” hard wax oil from Osmo should do the trick. &#xA;I use hard wax oil almost exclusively and can highly recommend it for tabletops. (I personally fabricate around 50 dining tables per year (among other things) and I am yet to find a better product)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other option you may want to consider is a soap finish. This will look just like raw timber and will offer some protection from staining spills etc. It is however more difficult to get right and will not be as durable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6193" LastActivityDate="2019-03-11T12:46:58.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="707" CreationDate="2019-03-12T01:54:58.160" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you really want strength, you could cut a Kanawa Tsugi! It's a keyed scarf joint taken from the timber framing tradition of Japanese temple builders. There are examples where this joint has held up for thousands of years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cut both of your boards so that they have the following profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OyBXK.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OyBXK.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from the slanted cuts in the middle, all angles here are square. The slant I used here is 5 degrees against the straight edge of the board, but the exact angles and measurements aren't really important, so long as you make sure to use the same for both boards. Flip them and line them up while marking, then flip them back to face each other after the cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YK7Mw.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YK7Mw.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now line up the straight edges of the tips and bring the profiles together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8XVn7.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8XVn7.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since they were cut symmetrically, they should fit together snugly.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GJQp4.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GJQp4.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now push them together end to end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MbkQm.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MbkQm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The slanted surfaces will slide against each other and guide together the mini-lap joints at the ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/duO3K.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/duO3K.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will be hard to push them all the way in, but once they are over the lip, the joint is ready for the final step. Fit a square dowel into the hole in the middle, then pound it in with a mallet, closing the remaining gaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WIort.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WIort.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final joint should be stronger than both boards were to begin with, and nearly impervious to wood movement, as expansion along the grain only serves to increase tension within the joint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3562" LastEditorUserId="3562" LastEditDate="2019-05-14T22:39:26.907" LastActivityDate="2019-05-14T22:39:26.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8354" CreationDate="2019-03-12T02:13:44.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you mark out your cut, sever the fibers with a scratch awl, then chisel a small groove into the waste piece ending at your cut line. If you follow your line, your saw will come out in the groove without tearing out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3562" LastActivityDate="2019-03-12T02:13:44.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8377" CreationDate="2019-03-12T03:05:56.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the blade is entering through the board, it isn't stabilized by the surrounding wood, so it may vibrate a little more than when it's moving forward through the cut. This is probably why the kerf is wider nearer to you. My guess is that if you did the whole cut coming from above one blade-length at a time, you would have the wider kerf all the way through the board. (Not a good way to cut, but it may shed some light on what's happening.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if that is the issue, you could try first making a shallow initial cut about half a blade-width towards the waste side of your cut line. I'd say keep the depth at 1/4&quot; or so, if your miter saw has a depth stop. Keeping the cut shallow should reduce the variation in stability between different parts of the cut, and when you go back to do the main cut, the blade should be stabilized and enter more cleanly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't work, have you tried using a different blade? There are &quot;thin kerf&quot; miter saw blades out there. You could also try a blade with a higher tooth count with a low hook angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3562" LastActivityDate="2019-03-12T03:05:56.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8383" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-03-12T03:18:04.407" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a 90 degree angle is measured accurately, we say that the measurement is true to square. Achieving square angles precisely can be nontrivial. This tag is about how to realize trueness to square when woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3562" LastEditorUserId="3562" LastEditDate="2019-03-12T19:24:57.800" LastActivityDate="2019-03-12T19:24:57.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8384" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-03-12T03:18:04.407" Score="0" Body="For questions primarily focused on 90 degree angles and how to realize them with accuracy." OwnerUserId="3562" LastEditorUserId="3562" LastEditDate="2019-03-12T19:26:36.553" LastActivityDate="2019-03-12T19:26:36.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="67" CreationDate="2019-03-12T03:30:16.270" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had very good luck with &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0000223UD&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Glide-cote&lt;/a&gt;. Generally it's for table saws, but I use it on hand tools I hang in my outdoor (covered but not humidity controlled) shop. Three coats seems to do the trick for months, assuming infrequent use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3562" LastActivityDate="2019-03-12T03:30:16.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8386" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8392" CreationDate="2019-03-12T05:53:21.697" Score="1" ViewCount="705" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just bought a polishing pad &amp;amp; sheepskin wool pad from Festool and have used them to clean up my table saw top. Now they are both covered in black stuff. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a best way to remove it and also, is it ok to use the same pads on wooden surfaces? Or do I now need to get a new set just for wood and leave the other ones to metal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I used a Festool cutting compound on the polishing pad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6162" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-03-13T07:45:23.950" LastActivityDate="2019-03-14T12:47:50.697" Title="Removing black stuff from polishing pads" Tags="|finishing|restoration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8377" CreationDate="2019-03-12T21:28:15.470" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a hunch that the problem with your saw is that the plane of the saw blade is not exactly parallel to the up/down and back/forward paths of the saw motor. This could be caused by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A bent saw blade&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some debris clamped between the saw blade, the inside blade thrust washer and the shoulder at the inside end of the saw shaft&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The motor not mounted with the shaft perfectly at right angles to the intended up/down and back/forward blade path as dictated be the slides and motor raise/lower articulation arms.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can correct these issues your blade should follow a truer path. Note that a used saw could have been dropped at some point causing the misalignment or even bending part of the saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2019-03-12T21:28:15.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8364" CreationDate="2019-03-13T09:16:09.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my judgement, from seeing your pictures, I would not be concerned about the spots that you have highlighted as being lighter. Those spots appearing to be in areas where the wood has become smoother due to the sanding process. The overall look if you stand back and consider what character the used lumber offers I would just accept those minor  light spots as just another part of the character.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After all if you had wanted a more perfect and consistent finish you would have planed these boards down to a smooth finish that removed all the original circular saw marks and random scratches and gouges. And even then fir will still have variations in the way it takes stain!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2019-03-13T09:16:09.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8389" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-13T14:07:21.787" Score="1" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just received this bullnose plane and I'm trying to identify it. I suppose its a record 75 plane, but i'm not sure about that. Someone can help me? Most of record 75 present different caps and bolts...&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jI2k4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jI2k4.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/McN4s.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/McN4s.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6204" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2019-03-13T20:02:15.077" LastActivityDate="2019-03-13T20:02:15.077" Title="Help me identify this Bullnose 75 plane" Tags="|hand-tools|plane|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8390" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-13T21:37:08.580" Score="1" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question is spurned by the fact that I've got a good deal of olive-wood scrap from creating utensils. I'd like to epoxy it all together and then turn a bowl out of them. In looking at epoxy, there are a lot of options along a fairly wide distribution of price points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So, what should one look for in an epoxy for this use?&lt;/strong&gt; Does anything change if looking to add color/dye to the epoxy? Are any epoxies considered food safe at the end of the day? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit to add: The scrap size is mostly 1.5&quot;x.75&quot;x.5&quot; (about a handful) and some larger pieces going up to 3&quot;x2&quot;x.75&quot;. It is my plan to stack all of the pieces into a Tupperware container, layer in the epoxy, then turn the bowl. In the end, the bowl may be about 60-75% wood, 25-40% epoxy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5460" LastEditorUserId="5460" LastEditDate="2019-03-14T15:31:26.463" LastActivityDate="2019-03-14T15:31:26.463" Title="How to choose an epoxy?" Tags="|epoxy|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8391" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8393" CreationDate="2019-03-13T22:51:34.430" Score="3" ViewCount="289" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a relatively new Sawstop CNS and when it is shut off it vibrates and makes a loud noise. I have tried to capture it in this video i took. Does anyone know if it is normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/QA0M6xzJ0zo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/QA0M6xzJ0zo&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6162" LastActivityDate="2019-03-14T20:17:31.743" Title="Sawstop CNS vibrating / slipping when slowing down" Tags="|table-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8386" CreationDate="2019-03-14T12:47:50.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The black stuff is iron particles that have been abraded from the table saw top. To remove them from your pads, you'll have to dissolve them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good news is, it appears that the festool cutting compounds are water-alkane emulsions, which means that you should be able to remove the majority of the residue by simple laundering with clothes detergent. I would do so by hand, and gently, given then at least one of them is made of wool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following that, there will probably still be some black residue remaining. Acids are the easiest way to dissolve these. Again, given the wool composition, I would go with weakest acids first - soaking in ample vinegar (acetic) or cola (phosphoric) will probably work. If those don't work, I would use dilute hydrochloric acid (commonly found as toilet bowl cleaner) - work your way up from extremely dilute to more concentrated. Following the acid treatment, launder again in multiple washes of plain water. Remember to be physically gentle so as not to ruin the wool structure, and to only be as chemically harsh as you need to be, and be patient - the vinegar/cola might take a day or two of soaking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2019-03-14T12:47:50.697" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8391" CreationDate="2019-03-14T20:17:31.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I have read, this is not all that unusual on contractor saws.  What is happening is that as the motor slows down, it slows at a different rate than the belt, so there is some slippage as the speeds equalize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://forums.woodnet.net/showthread.php?tid=7327906&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a link to a post on Woodnet that describes it in more detail.  As long as it is running fine when under power, there really isn't anything to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2019-03-14T20:17:31.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8394" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-14T20:31:08.293" Score="2" ViewCount="236" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm VERY new to woodworking and don't have a lot of tools. I have a DeWalt Pullsaw, a Dremel, and some various hand tools. I recently got into woodworking because I saw a lot of really cool woodworking projects involving D&amp;amp;D, but now there are other things I'd like to work on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My biggest issue is I live in an apartment, and even if I didn't, I can't afford expensive tools like a table saw or router. My Dremel is a Dremel 1000, which only has 1 speed, 35k rpms. Every time I've tried to use it to cut the wood I've been working with (birch, both 0.25&quot; and 0.75&quot;), I've either burned the wood, or in one case, even heated up the bit so much, it melted and snapped in half.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I should get a better Dremel, but is the 1000 a lost cause if I just want to cut some small shapes out of the wood? Or do I need a softer wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, is there a way I can keep my cuts straight using the pull saw? Or will I have to refine them with a hand plane? They always come out wavy and trying to sand them down results in my cut being the wrong size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6210" LastActivityDate="2019-03-15T06:01:09.890" Title="Routing With a Dremel" Tags="|hand-tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ClosedDate="2019-03-15T14:30:17.817" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8395" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8397" CreationDate="2019-03-14T20:56:27.720" Score="4" ViewCount="1356" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have access to reasonably priced linseed oil. However it is cold pressed. Boiled linseed oil is a lot more expensive where I am. Teak oil is in between the two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not want to use pure linseed oil because of the drying time (I heard it can take forever).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Teak oil got my interest because it seems to dry faster and offer better protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will use the oil for furniture I am building for indoors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My question is:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I simply opt for teak oil for the nice sheen, harder finish, better protection and quicker drying time? Is there anything BLO has that teak oil does not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="598" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-03-15T06:10:39.053" LastActivityDate="2019-03-15T20:04:17.800" Title="Can I use Teak Oil instead of linseed oil for my needs?" Tags="|finishing|oiling|boiled-linseed-oil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8394" CreationDate="2019-03-15T06:01:09.890" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll answer the second question first as it's easier.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without knowing the size of the wood or whether you are ripping or cross cutting, I'll give you a general answer.  I use some Japanese Pull saws, I like them better than Western push saws.  To help keep my cut straight, I made a small miter jig that I clamp to the table.  I'm sure you can find many plans online.  In a pinch you can just clamp a scrap piece of 3/4&quot; stock that has a clean &quot;Factory Edge&quot; along your cut line and hold the saw flat against it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the Dremel Rotary Tool, this can be a real challenge for 3/4&quot; material and it's not really the best choice for cutting.  You would be better off with their Ultra Saw with an edge guide for cutting thicker stock.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Dremel Scroll saw that I use for projects that would be too small on my table saw.  I clamp a straight edge on it as a fence and if you go slow, it works just fine.  It's also very quiet and you can hook up a small shop vac to it for dust collection.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Here's a picture of it set up with two fences to cut really small tenons.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8qnhU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8qnhU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also consider a Jigsaw.  It's fairly quiet and not too expensive.  With an edge guide you can get straight edges.  See the theme here, you want a fence or a guide to help keep your cuts straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in my opinion, I think you will have good results using your Pull Saw with a Miter Box or other straight edge and some practice.  If you are making small decorative things where structural strength isn't needed, you can try Basswood, but it's softer than Pine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps and enjoy the hobby!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ron&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6213" LastActivityDate="2019-03-15T06:01:09.890" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8395" CreationDate="2019-03-15T06:14:00.260" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can absolutely use &quot;teak oil&quot; &lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; in place of BLO. In fact I think if you did a direct comparison you'd decide that the results are superior, in all the ways you list — higher sheen (or at least more easily) and better surface protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is sold as teak oil can vary, because there's no standard for it in the finishing industry (as there isn't for anything else sold under a proprietary name&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;) but it's generally a dilute mixture of oil and varnish. So at heart it's quite similar to &quot;Danish oil&quot; which is made from the same or similar ingredients weighted differently towards one component or another. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can imagine if you have access to the starting points you can make your own versions of any finish of this type, and at substantially reduced cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I do not want to use pure linseed oil because of the drying time (I heard it can take forever).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes it can take an excessively long time to dry, weeks per coat, so building up a finish could take you months and months. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it is possible to modify the drying of raw linseed oil at home, from simple air 'drying' (forming what's called stand oil), various heating routines (forming heat-bodied oil), to actually making your own version of modern boiled linseed oil, which isn't produced by boiling but by blending it with metallic driers. Although these aren't practical for everyone for various reasons, perhaps the most important being the natural colour of the raw oil since this will affect any product made from it and it can vary enormously (even from batch to batch from the same supplier). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there anything BLO has that Teak does not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's as much opinion as anything because everyone weighs the various pros and cons of finishes differently. Line up 100 modern woodworkers and you'll likely find a couple of big fans of BLO among them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fans of finishing in BLO will often cite its ease of application, that it can be topped up indefinitely (essentially that it lasts forever if kept up) and that it makes wood look stunning. All of that is true but it's not the whole picture. I've used my fair share and while I was initially a fan after some in-service issues I have to say, now, the thing I like most about it is the wonderful smell of linseed oil! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Another option&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Well worth exploring wiping varnish if oil-based varnishes are also not too pricey for you. It is just as easy to apply (basically the same method, wipe on/wipe off), it'll allow you to build to a full gloss if ever desired and it will provide the best protection of the lot since it dries hardest and is most impervious to water of these three alternatives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More on wiping varnish &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5891/how-to-fix-very-light-scratches-in-polyurethane-finish/5893#5893&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Not actually made from teak. Disappointingly &quot;Danish oil&quot; follows the same pattern ^_^&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Perhaps the most infamous example being the original Tung Oil Finish which contained no tung oil (it's basically a version of &quot;Danish oil&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-03-15T15:27:27.370" LastActivityDate="2019-03-15T15:27:27.370" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8395" CreationDate="2019-03-15T20:04:17.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used teak oil on a door for a small cabinet that was kept inside the cabinet was scraped but the door remains around the finish still looks good, it was built about 10 years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2019-03-15T20:04:17.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8399" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-16T15:21:02.800" Score="5" ViewCount="1059" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a board game with blocks, both made of thin plywood. I don't know what type of wood it is; (it is light in colour and weight and rather soft) I would like to coat the wood eventually (which will be pyrographed) for more strength and protection, but I don't know what would be suitable to use for the purpose (there is a wide variety of products and I'm not very well familiar with them). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will be good if it doesn't emit toxic fumes but I need it to provide more protection that mere linseed oil. Shellac is not an option (due to high price and lack of availability).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6216" LastActivityDate="2019-05-16T13:45:14.427" Title="What would be a suitable finish for a board game" Tags="|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8400" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-16T15:46:40.077" Score="1" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently was gifted a session at a Board and Brush establishment, and made a lettered sign which I wish to hang on the garden fence. I would like to preserve it with a waterproof topcoat. Suggestions for product? The board was stained first, then painted, then lettered. I don't want the waterproofing product to alter the result. Thanks for assistance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lettering is flat, no 3D. I wonder if spar varnish would be a good option. Am a little leary of chemicals/health issues with  auto clear (that I read in some other forum).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6217" LastEditorUserId="6217" LastEditDate="2019-03-16T16:28:48.663" LastActivityDate="2020-07-22T00:07:15.830" Title="waterproof an outdoor lettered sign" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8401" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8402" CreationDate="2019-03-16T17:15:07.963" Score="2" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have to build a box to extend the length of a projector bracket:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u3RDE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u3RDE.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The projector bracket weighs 7kg and has an arm of about 500mm. The projector weighs another 5kg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The box has a depth of 140mm. That is the length by which I need to extend the length of the projector arm because the wall on which the bracket is mounted is recessed by 140mm behind the image surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does one of the following two ways of joining offer a stronger structure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YwDLj.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YwDLj.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have tools to make complex joints. I can only screw ½&quot; plywood at right angles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6218" LastActivityDate="2019-03-16T20:16:07.943" Title="Which way of joining is stronger?" Tags="|joinery|design|strength|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8401" CreationDate="2019-03-16T20:16:07.943" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;IF you consider the connection of the bracket to mounting box as a hinge (or rotation axis) the projector will exert a downward force that will try to rotate the bracket counter clockwise in your diagram.  This force will attempt to pull the top of your box out top left connection.  IN option 'A' this rotational force is resisted by the hold that the wood has on the threads of the screw.  In option 'B' the rotational force is resisted more by the sheer strength of the screws.  In this situation I  would trust the strength of the steel screws more than the resistance of the wood to prevent the screws from pulling out making 'B' the better choice.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the weights are fairly light and  the bracket is not setting out from the box very far, it is probable that both options would be satisfactory especially considering that there are multiple screws across the top of the box and together they should be adequate to prevent the screws from pulling out of the top of the box. I would also not hesitate to skip screws all together by creating a rabbet at the corners and gluing the wood pices together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2019-03-16T20:16:07.943" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8403" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-16T23:48:47.343" Score="1" ViewCount="165" Body="&lt;p&gt;How does the work of CNC mills compare to that of a master wood carver? I want to make some furniture with carved wooden legs. The cost of commissioning a master carver to do this work would be pretty astronomical, however, so I am wondering if I could get just a good result by using CNC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have posted an example of what I am aiming for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nGb7m.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nGb7m.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastEditorUserId="306" LastEditDate="2019-03-17T19:09:15.527" LastActivityDate="2019-03-22T14:10:30.417" Title="Are CNC mills as good as human wood carvers?" Tags="|carving|cnc|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8403" CreationDate="2019-03-17T16:29:05.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer yes and no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CNC machines can carve impressive carvings but depend on the programing, most can not carve true 3 dimensional (statues etc.) and are lacking, but repeatable, also I can not carve. Often hand carving is faster, has more feeling, depth, ... and always more artistic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2019-03-17T16:29:05.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6596" CreationDate="2019-03-18T15:51:28.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built a DIY jar preheater for my candle business from an old cabinet about 5 feet long by about two feet deep and two feet wide and heat it with 3 - 250 watt heat lamps (in ceramic sockets) to 150 degrees F. or more. I bought a cheap controller and thermocouple from Amazon to regulate the temp for about $20 and it works great! Getting out of the candle business and into woodworking and plan to use the heat cabinet to kiln dry resawn firewood. I covered the inside of the box with metal HVAC tape to reflect the heat and reduce loss through the box itself. Give it a try!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6224" LastActivityDate="2019-03-18T15:51:28.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8414" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-21T19:32:08.183" Score="1" ViewCount="1940" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sanded a secondhand table and after I staining it looks streaky. Don't know the type of wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I fix this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pic added of the table before I sanded and one after I sanded and before I added stain. Stain used Minwax. Sanded with a palm sander with 120grit and 220 grit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9ZOKK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9ZOKK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pic 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GnAyG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GnAyG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pic 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V1RaX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V1RaX.png&quot; alt=&quot;Pic 3&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pcBUv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pcBUv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pic 4&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6239" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-03-22T09:42:58.397" LastActivityDate="2019-03-22T21:22:59.743" Title="What to do after staining table and getting dark streaks" Tags="|staining|sanding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8416" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-22T02:28:15.947" Score="2" ViewCount="2912" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in a &quot;sticky&quot; situation with my IKEA benchtop (Karlby) which I coated with Behandla (danish oil) that comes with it and have obviously put too much on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did this nine months ago for a rental property and my tenant has only just told us now that it has stayed very sticky the whole time and now there's all bits of crud stuck to it as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our handyman has simply said to replace the entire bench but we can't afford that. Has anyone had to strip off excessive stickiness and stuck in crud like this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can't be sanded due to clogging, we tried olive oil but it didn't even come close to working. I've read about using turpentine which my handyman tried to do and said it was useless. I've also read about mineral spirit which I think is turps anyway and also acetone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6240" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-03-22T08:24:37.950" LastActivityDate="2019-03-24T00:53:38.080" Title="Very Sticky Ikea Wood Benchtop, solution?" Tags="|oiling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8416" CreationDate="2019-03-22T09:21:45.093" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is easily fixable, and shouldn't be too expensive although the cost of materials isn't negligible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All you have to do is remove the softly cured excess oil from the surface, which should take all of the crud with it. After this, a quick rinse down with solvent and/or soapy water and the surface could look virtually brand new. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We actually have an existing Q&amp;amp;A on the same topic, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4658/how-to-solve-the-behandla-problem-removing-or-avoiding-sticky-oil-residue&quot;&gt;How to solve the behandla problem -- removing or avoiding sticky oil residue&lt;/a&gt; although this is a little different due to the timeframe. Since the oil in this case has had longer to cure and subsequently get dirty the approach needs to be altered and this is why this isn't a simple duplicate Question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;IKEA benchtop (Karlby) which I coated with Behandla (danish oil) that comes with it and have obviously put too much on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspected immediately on reading the Question title that this would be a problem with the use of Behandla. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that unless they've changed the formulation for Behandla it's actually primarily linseed oil, not a version of &quot;Danish oil&quot;, although both can leave a gummy/sticky surface if &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; excess is not removed after application&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How to fix&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Although you indicate you've tried acetone and it didn't do much it should actually work for this. But you have to use significant quantities and it should be used along with a pad of steel wool or a nylon abrasive pad to scrub the surface, not just a wiping cloth or a pad of paper towel. So if you don't skimp on the acetone or effort it should get the job done&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it would be more effective to use a stronger solvent that evaporates more slowly or a commercial finish stripper, and it's the latter I would suggest you use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strippers vary is speed and safety level. The fastest and generally most effective type (methylene chloride) is unfortunately the most hazardous to use and I can't recommend its use in an enclosed space by someone unfamiliar with it&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;. There are now safer strippers to pick from which for work indoors I think make a lot of sense. I don't want to promote a specific product but 'green' strippers which are often a gel consistency with a citrus smell should work perfectly for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To use you apply a generous coat, then leave it alone to do its work for a given time (15 minutes may be enough here but if it takes longer it takes longer). Then carefully scrape the stripper along with the softened finish from the wood. If necessary you repeat the process on any stubborn spots. Tip: expired credit cards or store cards make great scrapers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After stripping you clean the surface down to remove remaining traces of stripper or finish. Pros often use lacquer thinner for this but since you have acetone I'd suggest you use that, if there's enough remaining. And after this you may also want to rinse with soapy water, wiping dry when you're done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then let the surface dry out thoroughly, ideally overnight, before refinishing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Safety note: I would wear robust gloves throughout for this kind of work, no matter how safe the stripper says it is on the labelling! And eye protection should be considered mandatory. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Refinishing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Then you have to decide what, if anything, you want to do to treat the countertop since stripping will likely also remove all of the original finish if there was one (see note * bottom).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could use the Behandla applied correctly this time :-) although I don't think it provides enough protection for a working surface in a kitchen myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually using &quot;Danish oil&quot; (usually a varnish and oil blend) is an option, but I think it's better to go straight to varnish myself. It can be just as easy to apply, in a wipe-on/wipe-off manner, and it's tougher, more durable and more water-resistant. See more on wiping varnish in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5891/how-to-fix-very-light-scratches-in-polyurethane-finish&quot;&gt;this Question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that surfaces treated with virtually any oil-based finishing product aren't considered cured for perhaps a full month after the last coat is applied. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Our handyman has simply said to replace the entire bench but we can't afford that!! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I might offer an opinion on that, it sounds like they simply don't want to face the labour of stripping the gunk off the surface! Which I understand, it is a fair bit of work. It might take a concerted hour or possibly two, after which your hand and arm will be tired but it's hardly what I'd call backbreaking labour. Even an unfit sedentary person can do this kind of thing...... I speak from experience :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I hate to say this because of the waste but given the cost of labour on top of the materials needed for this it is possible that complete replacement is actually the most cost-effective solution here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At time of writing in the US a Karlby countertop is $169 without the Ikea Family discount. I don't know what the cost of labour would be to you but factor in approximately two hours to the cost of materials. The materials list might be: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the stripper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;possibly more acetone, or lacquer thinner&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;steel wool or nylon abrasive pads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cleaning rags (old t-shirts or threadbare sheets are an option if you have enough)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;possibly gloves and safety specs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tape and plastic sheeting/bin liners to protect adjacent surfaces&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;....it begins to add up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, note the curing time given above. While finished surfaces can be used lightly after allowing a few days to dry, the finish is not at full toughness and won't provide its full protection until it is fully cured. Surfaces should not be washed down during this curing process or even wiped with a damp cloth, which obviously may present a difficulty in a rental environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; When you're finishing wood with an oil or oil blend the surface should actually feel quite dry when you're done wiping away the excess. I think the instructions on all products should be much clearer on this point, although the Ikea product does say &lt;em&gt;&quot;Wipe off any unabsorbed oil with a soft cloth.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Unfortunately acetone evaporates &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; quickly, which constantly fights your efforts to get it to soften a gummy finish. This is why straight acetone is not generally used as a stripper, even though it is very effective at softening a range of finishes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Although perfectly safe if used correctly (it's the most widely used stripping chemical in industry and has been freely sold to the public for decades) I want to be very clear on the potential risk here for the benefit of future readers — incautious &lt;em&gt;one-time&lt;/em&gt; use of methylene chloride strippers &lt;em&gt;can result in death&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*The Ikea site for my country states that &lt;em&gt;&quot;For quick installation and easy maintenance the [Karlby] worktop is pre-treated with hard wax oil.&quot;&lt;/em&gt; If that applies universally you don't have to use anything on your Karlby worktops initially, although the surface will require regular topping up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-03-22T09:21:45.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8414" CreationDate="2019-03-22T13:54:55.197" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks like oak which has an open grain.  Your stain has landed in the grain pores but wiped off the late season wood which leaves a &quot;dramatic&quot; contrast and shows up the marks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than try to eliminate the stains (crayon or whatever) consider darkening the lighter parts of the table making the stains less obvious&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might try an aniline water stain.  This comes as a powder and is completely dissolved in water and will even out the colour.  The whole table will be darker depending on the colour of stain and how any coats are applied.  Only works if the table has no finish that would have sealed the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is to even out the contrast from the original staining and make the marks less obvious. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After your first sealing coat (I use shellac) you can use an oil stain to touch up any uneven spots.  Because the surface is sealed it wont soak in and can be wiped off with a rag dampened with thinner,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6241" LastEditorUserId="6241" LastEditDate="2019-03-22T21:22:59.743" LastActivityDate="2019-03-22T21:22:59.743" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8403" CreationDate="2019-03-22T14:10:30.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To do these chair legs you would need a large mill with rotary table to carve the legs on all sides $$$$.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mill uses a circular cutter which will leave rounded corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Freeman earlier said it would take some skill to do the 3D design.  To see just how difficult install Fusion 360, one of the most popular programs to handle something of this complexity.  Free for hobbyists.  Try a really simple flat carving about the size of a pack of cards and get it 3D printed.  The same design can be sent to a CNC mill or a 3D printer.  Same code, just one adds material the other removes material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pay for the master carver and support a dying trade.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6241" LastActivityDate="2019-03-22T14:10:30.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8420" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8422" CreationDate="2019-03-22T19:18:34.403" Score="2" ViewCount="447" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm hoping this question is okay to ask here!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to build my own table and am stuck figuring out a safe/sturdy way to create it so that I will be able to unfasten some screws or something and remove the central top panel of the table so that it can be replaced with a different panel while still ensuring that it is durable enough to use like a normal table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current design is basically a picture frame with legs, the central panel would be about 1-3/8ths thick and have 4-8 extra blocks along the edge underneath with Cam Connectors inside securing the central panel to the frame. Is this something that is durable/strong enough to withstand normal use? I'm still fairly new to woodworking and I've only seen Cam Connectors used in some of my Ikea furniture so I thought I'd ask. Advice on recommended joinery for the frame corners is also welcome!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xwQlT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xwQlT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5575" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2019-03-23T06:57:30.927" Title="Design: Creating a table with removable center/top" Tags="|joinery|design|table-making|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8421" PostTypeId="6" CreationDate="2019-03-22T20:53:57.283" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been a strong supporter of this woodworking site for three years now with regular visits nearly every day.  I am an avid woodworker and understand the principals and process this site uses.  I am pleased to offer volunteer time to support Woodworking Stack Exchange as a moderator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2019-03-22T20:53:57.283" LastActivityDate="2019-03-22T20:53:57.283" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2019-03-22T20:53:57.283" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8420" CreationDate="2019-03-23T06:57:30.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As sketched I think cam connectors would work here, as long as the centre of the table isn't subject to excessive weight in use. But I think there's an easier way of doing what you want, and it would allow the insert to be placed and removed far more quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can achieve the same result more easily by just having the insert sit on a 'shelf' all round. This shelf can be a rebate formed in the frame or you can use built-up construction and tack on strips underneath which many would find simpler to do. This also means the frame members can be thinner wood, for a possible significant saving in materials cost. The strips don't have to be the full length of each side, so you wouldn't have to mitre their corners or worry about getting them to exact length for a neat fit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Advice on recommended joinery for the frame corners is also welcome! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could go with the simplest option which is basic mitres and just reinforce the glued joint. Mitres that are glued only are quite weak (although that can be improved on by &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/840/gluing-end-grain&quot;&gt;good glueing technique&lt;/a&gt;) but they can be reinforced by various simple means, e.g. using nails, screws, dowels, or corrugated fasteners AKA wiggle nails. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method keeps the basic joint very simple and straightforward to cut while ending up strong enough to last in use. My personal favourite here for reinforcement would be through-dowels as I like how the exposed dowel ends look, but the joint may actually end up being stronger than if screws were used similarly since they are going into end grain*.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can't ignore wood movement&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Regardless of the details of the built do bear in mind my previous Comment about movement in solid wood. Even if you carefully select quarter-sawn material to make the panel you're likely (i.e. in most species) to get enough expansion and contraction through the seasons in a panel 20-24&quot; wide for it to be an issue, unless the climate is unusually stable where you are. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't just that you'd have a sloppy fit sometimes and a tight fit others. If the panel is sized to fit well initially and it subsequently expands by only a fat 1/32&quot; / ~1mm (which is a conservative assumption) that would be enough to prevent it being placed, or if in position to jam so tightly it couldn't be removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you make the insert from plywood or another manmade board you avoid this issue entirely. This is actually the only stable way to make any sort of picture-framed table (inless the effect is achieved by veneering).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*See &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/7898/endgrain-screw-withdrawal-force&quot;&gt;Endgrain screw withdrawal force&lt;/a&gt; for a bit on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-03-23T06:57:30.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="147" CreationDate="2019-03-23T15:34:12.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sagulator&lt;/a&gt;, be sure to explicitly add the weight of the wood itself. This is not documented, and Sagulator feedback is disabled. However, one can confirm this by comparing a 1 pound total load to a 2 pound total load, on a 120' span made of 1&quot; x 12&quot; walnut. (This is surely beyond the elastic limit of walnut; we're simply debugging the tool here.) The computed sag doubles, when in fact the wood itself weights 400 pounds. Adding a pound or two should have an inconsequential effect; the effective sag will be due to the weight of the wood itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6243" LastActivityDate="2019-03-23T15:34:12.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8425" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-24T02:58:04.137" Score="2" ViewCount="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw some fancy oak paneling which included 14-foot quarter sawn boards and was told that under the paneling was base of fir boards and this was important to stabilize oak and without it the oak would distort. Does anyone have any opinion or further information about this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2019-03-24T02:58:04.137" Title="Backing oak with fir in cabinetry" Tags="|moisture|panel|oak|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8427" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-24T13:06:15.620" Score="5" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen a twisted style of wood carving used in 19th-century table legs or staircase balusters. What is it called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HjYK3.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HjYK3.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2019-03-24T20:10:40.010" Title="Twisted carving in legs or balusters" Tags="|terminology|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8428" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8433" CreationDate="2019-03-24T14:14:16.457" Score="4" ViewCount="310" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to build a few workbenches for my office at work. They won't be used for true &quot;shop&quot; work but will need to be fairly strong, as there will be equipment and tools on them. I am planning on painting the top, so I don't care about the raw look of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To save time on the construction, I am planning on a tubular 3/4&quot; galvanized frame like this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ypyXt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ypyXt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Img 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the tabletop itself, I am thinking of an IKEA solid oak 1 1/8&quot; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/60274964/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;countertop&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My worry is that since the tabletop will be around 8' long, and it won't be supported along the length like a standard wood frame, it will be prone to warping/bending/weakness along the unsupported areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The options I see are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Add third set of tube supports in the center of the table, so it will now have 6 contact points. I think I should do this regardless of other measures I take.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Add an unsupported oak apron around the edge of the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Support the tabletop with some sort of metal structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) (The option I am leaning toward) Fiberglass the top and bottom with some glass, like how a boat composite is made. This has the advantage of making a nice durable finish on the top that is easy to paint. Also strengthens the tabletop overall, and will solve any poor gluing issues by IKEA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me know what your thoughts are!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6247" LastEditorUserId="6247" LastEditDate="2019-03-24T14:24:35.863" LastActivityDate="2019-03-25T08:56:43.537" Title="Support for solid wood tabletop with galvanized tube frame" Tags="|tabletop|workbench|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8429" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8436" CreationDate="2019-03-24T14:17:42.293" Score="9" ViewCount="632" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to build a replacement for a coffee table drawer that went missing years ago. I remember the drawer front matched the profile of the skirt on the table, so I was able to make a template from the other side and reasonably match it with a band saw and belt sander. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I am stuck on how to cut the groove that is parallel to the curved edge. I'm not sure how I would go about cutting that groove since it has to follow a 3 dimensional contour. If it was straight it would seem like maybe a job for a router plane with a fence, but the only ones I have seen wouldn't work well on a curve like this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What tool or technique do I need to cut a curved groove like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YRP22.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YRP22.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Update)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Follow up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up making a rather unsophisticated scratch stock with some &quot;blanks&quot; I found on Amazon, a piece of scrap wood from the bin, and a mini c-clamp. I just rough beveled the end, cut a groove down the middle, shoved the blade in it and clamped it in place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It somewhat worked on a piece of scrap, cutting well in the areas where it ran with the grain, but choppy and hard to control as it cut across the grain on the hard maple. I'm sure a better edge and more practice would help. I didn't smooth the edge any better than what you get with a diamond file. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I iron out the bugs, I think this will do the trick. Thanks to those who suggested it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XMbmG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XMbmG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Scratch Stock&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xsAyZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xsAyZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Test&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastEditorUserId="6248" LastEditDate="2019-04-14T01:38:49.810" LastActivityDate="2019-04-14T01:38:49.810" Title="How to cut a parallel groove on three dimensional profile" Tags="|technique|tools|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8427" CreationDate="2019-03-24T20:10:40.010" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this is a type of &lt;em&gt;barley twist&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Google image search for &quot;barley twist legs&quot; brings up the following pieces, of many, each identified by a private seller or auction house as having legs with a barley twist:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lF5yY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lF5yY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Barley-twist legs&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-03-24T20:10:40.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8428" CreationDate="2019-03-25T08:56:43.537" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's right to be cautious, but this is oak and over an inch in thickness which is really quite thick as far as tabletops go. The Ikea countertop material is also made from glued staves&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, which isn't really that similar to a single wide board or 2-3 planks glued along their edges and is likely to be significantly stiffer than either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as it's best to err on the side of caution when I plugged some numbers into &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Sagulator&lt;/a&gt; I ignored this likely advantage and basically did a worst-case scenario, assuming a very large central load and it gives the sag as Acceptable. Total sag was given as 0.13&quot;, which may be too small to see with the naked eye. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even changing the width to the full 78&quot; and the depth from 30&quot; to only 25&quot; sag is Acceptable, with a total of 0.19&quot;. Beyond this, using the original numbers but changing the material to numerous species of pine the sag is &lt;em&gt;still&lt;/em&gt; acceptable because of the thickness of the material. So I think you're good as-is!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other factors&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There are some potential worries about &lt;strong&gt;racking forces&lt;/strong&gt; with this design, but I think you're fine if these benches won't be used as true workbenches where you'll be pushing into them with tools sideways or inwards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wood movement&lt;/strong&gt; is never something to ignore with a top made from solid wood and not a manmade board material like ply or MDF. For an 8% change in moisture content of the wood the calculated movement in flat-sawn oak 30&quot; wide comes out to nearly 0.9&quot;, which is I think a little more than the flex in the structure would accommodate&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. So some allowance for movement should be built in. This is easily done, e.g. by wallowing out the holes in the floor flanges which will be used to mount the wood top (ignore the ones that go on the floor). You could alternatively use screws that are a loose fits in the existing holes but in general it's better to use shorter, stouter screws than longer skinnier ones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last note, as you're working with hardwood you'd be advised to drill &lt;strong&gt;pilot holes&lt;/strong&gt; for your screws. Be careful doing this so as not to drill through the top of the workbench! This is surprisingly easy to do and most woodworkers have made the mistake at least once LOL The small holes that result are patched easily enough (especially here since you plan to paint the tops) but obviously you want to avoid the extra work if you can. The old standby, &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.pinimg.com/236x/f3/7b/8a/f37b8ac9578f47203c8bb7e8bcecbe6e.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the tape trick&lt;/a&gt;, is the easiest way to help prevent drilling too deeply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; A construction method these days often, but misleadingly, referred to as butcher block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Your movement could well end up being less than this but it's best to account for maximum movement rather than undershoot and have things be put under stress (which can lead to stripped or broken screws and a wobbly table at the end of the day).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-03-25T08:56:43.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8434" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-25T09:12:35.150" Score="0" ViewCount="764" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have to build a stool of height 2 ft, breadth 18 inches, width 21 inches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I have been told by my carpenter that he needs a cubic foot of teak wood to make the material. I just want to be sure that he is not swindling me of my money and so that's the basic concern. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6254" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2019-03-27T18:22:48.667" LastActivityDate="2019-03-27T18:22:48.667" Title="how much teak wood required in cubic feet" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2019-03-28T14:10:50.813" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="147" CreationDate="2019-03-25T15:24:43.413" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can always take the Calvin &amp;amp; Hobbes approach!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F54qK.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F54qK.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2019-03-25T15:24:43.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8429" CreationDate="2019-03-25T16:01:25.653" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a tricky one! After thinking on it awhile, here's how I'd do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5147/how-do-i-achieve-inset-edge-beading/5148#5148&quot;&gt;scratch stock&lt;/a&gt;, with the fence part modified to follow curves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never done this with a scratch stock, but I have done a similar thing with a router. Here's a picture of a curve-following base I built for my trim router:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t7EsD.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t7EsD.png&quot; alt=&quot;Curve-following router base&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image credit: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instagram.com/p/BdN1x1xB5Ro/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Charlie Kilian on Instagram&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Apologies for the quick-and-dirty construction; this was a case where ideas I was prototyping never got rebuilt as a final jig.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important part here is the fence made of two dowels. The base acts like a normal &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-Router-Edge-Guide/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;edge guide&lt;/a&gt;, except instead of a straight fence, the two dowels allow it to contact any point on the curved edge while still being held parallel from it. To use it, you use the dowels as a guide, keeping them both flat against the curve as you move the router. The curve of the dowels contact the curve of the work piece at only two points (one on each dowel), allowing the router to turn with the curve. The distance from the router bit to the dowel fence determines where on the work piece the router cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used the base above to cut the curved profile of this line:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nb5u7.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nb5u7.png&quot; alt=&quot;Curved work piece with relief cut by router in a curve-following base&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image credit: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instagram.com/p/BdN1x1xB5Ro/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Charlie Kilian on Instagram&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(In case there is confusion on this point: In the example above, I used the router in the curve-following base only to create the &lt;em&gt;profile&lt;/em&gt; of the curve. The flat bottom of the large recesses were cleaned out using a router plane to sneak up on that profile.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This technique handles the curved bottom of your drawer, but it does not account for the curves on the face. &lt;strong&gt;This is why I would adapt this technique to a scratch stock, instead of using a router.&lt;/strong&gt; The flat base of the router will make it hard to control the depth of cut as it moves over the curved face. Though it will take longer, a scratch stock will give you much finer control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modify the scratch stock's fence to have two dowels on either side of the cutter, similar to how I put two dowels on either side of the router bit. As you use the scratch stock, keep both dowels in contact with the drawer bottom, and it should follow the curve. As a bonus, since it will take many passes to carve the profile, a mistake on one pass isn't as catastrophic as a mistake made with a router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide to use a scratch stock, here's some solid advice on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hocktools.com/SC075Instructions.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;how to make a cutter&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2019-03-25T16:13:06.170" LastActivityDate="2019-03-25T16:13:06.170" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8429" CreationDate="2019-03-25T16:12:51.833" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly if you're just making one of these I think the fastest thing would be to just use a gouge and carve it freehand.  Layout the distance from the edge and width of the groove with a compass first, then just stay between your lines.  Check the depth often with a small piece of scrap wood with a mark on it.  When it's pretty close wrap sandpaper around a block small enough to fit in the groove and smooth and refine it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously if you haven't done any carving before I would practice on a piece of the same wood beforehand.  Take small bites and watch the grain of the wood.  Switch directions if you're going against the grain to prevent tear-out.  Also maybe watch some basic carving videos online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2019-03-25T16:15:23.027" LastActivityDate="2019-03-25T16:15:23.027" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8438" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-26T05:55:37.297" Score="4" ViewCount="552" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have these 9”-wide, 3/4”-thick pine panels from the bigbox store that i would like to make into a carcass with dovetails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Such panels commonly exhibit some cupping, but have some spring into them, and can typically be flattened with clamp pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would they stay flat once joined with dovetails? or does stock need to be absolutely flat from the start?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q9VE6m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q9VE6m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;three panels with edge grain up&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Photo shows three panels with varying amounts of cupping. A second clamp, if placed in the center, makes them flat again.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Follow-up:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I gave it a go with the panels, based on feedback here. And it's totally fine, plus or minus some adjustments. This was my first attempt at dovetails. Here's a few things I'd not realized until I had to actually do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0) A bit more planning on my part would have revealed that the pin board (which was a glue-up panel) also had some cupping in it. So I had to clamp the &lt;em&gt;two&lt;/em&gt; boards flat simultaneously while scribing my pin board on the tail board, which did complicate the clamping and marking situation. The tail board was clamped flat with a vise (a workmate), and I was holding the pin board vertically, with a 2x4 clamped on the piece to keep the pin board straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Depending on the level of cupping in the grain of the tail board, you end up with somewhat weak tail corners. I unfortunately didn't pay attention to that when I did the layout. I designed pins first, but didn't double check where the pins landed before committing to their final shape. I also should have pared more carefully around these fragile corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UQHp8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UQHp8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;corner chips missing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Photo shows two broken tail corners, right on the growth line. I tried glue, but it broke once more in a different spot, then I just accepted my mistake.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) I put the heartside facing outwards of the box, as was recommended. But I still ended up with a minute gap. I've shone light through the gap here. There is some spring still in it and it won't rest at the bottom without pressure -- maybe my joint can be cleaned up a bit more. I feel it will probably vanish, with clamps and glue-up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b6WyS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b6WyS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;minute gap at the bottom of tail board&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Photo shows a minute gap at the bottom of the pin board.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the overall look:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8jIGem.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8jIGem.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Photo shows the overall look, before gluing and planing finished join. A few gaps which I'll try to fix using slivers &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8jIGe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;(Full size)&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2019-06-03T22:45:13.347" LastActivityDate="2019-06-03T22:45:13.347" Title="pine panels with minor cupping suitable for dovetails?" Tags="|joinery|dovetail|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6256" CreationDate="2019-03-26T06:37:27.657" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know the question is about grain direction and this may be obvious, but it's safer to plane over the edges from the outside towards the center of the piece. This avoids breakout. It can be a good idea to use a sacrificial piece, or by chamfering the edges before planing endgrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that edge breakout can be eliminated, if the direction of grain is orthogonal to the sole of the plane (perfectly 90degree to the sole of the plane in X/Y) then the direction of planing doesn't matter so much. If the grain tilts one way or another, then the more the the grain is oriented towards the direction you move the blade to, the smoother the cut will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/6256/is-there-a-favourable-direction-for-planing-end-grain#comment13808_6256&quot;&gt;this comment&lt;/a&gt;, you should find that a very sharp iron cuts finely regardless of direction. But even in cases where sharpening skill or equipment (or patience) doesn't produce a plane iron that is laser-sharp, I've found that &lt;a href=&quot;https://hocktools.wordpress.com/2010/03/07/the-turn-of-the-skew/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;skewing&lt;/a&gt; the plane (i.e. at a non-90degree attack angle, e.g., moving the plane body Northwards, while keeping the plane pointed NE or NW) always seems to leave a smoother endgrain surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;edit: added skewing reference. thank you.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2019-06-10T18:31:49.767" LastActivityDate="2019-06-10T18:31:49.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8438" CreationDate="2019-03-26T12:25:27.677" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My rule is to use it if it can be flattened with no more than moderate hand pressure. Dovetails in particular are forgiving, because the joinery forces pieces into contact along the entire joint line. The wood will continue to move over time anyway. Also, just by looking at the ring orientation, these pieces are going to bend that way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll want to be careful with layout - best to clamp the boards flat, so that when you mark across the thickness (ie, on the end grain for tails, presuming tails-first) you are marking square across. If you're using a machine jig, make sure they are clamped in with enough pressure to stay flat during machining. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, perhaps most importantly, orient the boards in the joint so that the ends will tend to cup &lt;em&gt;into&lt;/em&gt; the joint. Oriented the other way, the ends will eventually show gaps. As i mentioned above, the joinery itself will keep the middle part tight. This means that heart side should face out of your box/drawer/assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2019-03-26T12:25:27.677" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1349" CreationDate="2019-03-26T22:45:22.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;99 lbs applied as a first class level 15cm from the join is actually VERY strong.  If you have a 4 legged table and sit a 400 lb person on top of it, each leg is carrying the vast majority of the weight to the ground, the pocket hole is not carrying that load, they are simply holding the legs in place.   Leaning against the table will impart some level of force that wants to pull/push the legs apart and will test the strength of the pocket hole, but when you are leaning on something once again most of the weight is going through the two legs closest to you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The worst case scenario would be a shelf in a cabinet where the joint itself is carrying all the weight.  But once again if you have 6 pocket holes is your cabinet really going to carry more than 300lbs on a shelf?  You would have to have some serious dishes for that to be the case lol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you wouldn't want to use a pocket hole for would be something like a chair.  People throw themselves into chairs at various angles and often violently drop themselves in and let the chair catch them.  No way a chair in constant use would hold up over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6259" LastActivityDate="2019-03-26T22:45:22.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8434" CreationDate="2019-03-26T23:25:48.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most basic design for a stool I can think of would require a seat and four legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your seat is 2 inches thick, that's about half a cubic foot right there. If your legs are 2in and square, that brings the total up to roughly three-quarters of a cubic foot. That leaves only one fourth of a cubic foot to spare for any additional features like crossbars or stretchers (which would be recommended).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping in mind that the wood he buys will necessarily have waste, I would say he is under charging you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3562" LastActivityDate="2019-03-26T23:25:48.163" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8445" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8446" CreationDate="2019-03-27T06:09:52.860" Score="6" ViewCount="1428" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put together a simple router planing jig - everything seems level, but as I pass the router over this test board, it leaves a track (as pictured).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3rlu4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3rlu4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Top down&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ENh7d.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ENh7d.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;From end&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can barely feel it, and hitting the board with an orbital sander real quick seems to touch it up, but I'm concerned that the board will be no good for an end grain block that it is destined for.. though it &lt;em&gt;looks&lt;/em&gt; like it might be flush enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bit I'm using is a 2 inch wide bowl bit (flat on the bottom) though I've tried a larger bottom clearing bit and it had the same issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, question - is this to be expected using a router as a planer? If not, is there something in particular that is causing this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6093" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-03-27T06:27:48.313" LastActivityDate="2019-03-27T07:41:08.970" Title="Router planing jig problem - tracks" Tags="|router|jig|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8445" CreationDate="2019-03-27T07:41:08.970" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I get the same tracks, and they come out pretty easily with the orbital as you mentioned. This happens as small variations in downward pressure will occur when making passes with the router sled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One option is to &quot;fix&quot; your router in the sled then simply move the sled itself instead of moving the router up and down a channel that runs the length of the sled. Of course, you'll need a wider sled to plane wider boards, but it will do a better job of alleviating these tracks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example of what I'm talking about: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KbBrbUK2cek&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KbBrbUK2cek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2019-03-27T07:41:08.970" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7968" CreationDate="2019-03-27T12:03:48.760" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thing you're looking for is called an extension socket. If you search for &quot;Morse Taper Extension Socket MT1 to MT2&quot; on Amazon you'll see several examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the best deal I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.etsy.com/listing/253992349/proops-mt-2-to-mt-1-morse-taper-adaptor?ga_order=most_relevant&amp;amp;ga_search_type=all&amp;amp;ga_view_type=gallery&amp;amp;ga_search_query=morse%20taper&amp;amp;ref=sr_gallery-1-5&amp;amp;organic_search_click=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;was from a seller on Etsy&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6262" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-03-28T05:45:26.503" LastActivityDate="2019-03-28T05:45:26.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8448" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-28T03:42:45.400" Score="1" ViewCount="473" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought an old, thick butcher block (~16”) that has loosened up over the years and I can’t determine how old it is.  It does have ~5/8” through rods that have washers and hex nuts on them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel like since it has hex nuts it probably isn’t much older than the 50s or so, but that’s just a gut feeling.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When did hex head nuts become common in furniture?  Is this evidence of the age or is it just too hard to tell from that one data point?  Aside from an obvious mark, what other clues might I look for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1286" LastEditorUserId="3562" LastEditDate="2019-04-03T16:21:55.890" LastActivityDate="2019-04-03T16:21:55.890" Title="What does a hex nut say about the age of a butcher block?" Tags="|butcher-block|history|hardware|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8449" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8451" CreationDate="2019-03-28T17:02:03.983" Score="6" ViewCount="2044" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got an oil stone from my grandpa that is glued into a wood case, I use it to sharpen chisels and plane irons. The stone has absorbed tons of oil and I'd like to clean it to find out the original color and remove some of the petroleum odor since I prefer non-toxic honing fluids like mineral oil or glass cleaner. If it wasn't in a wood case this would be easy. I tried cleaning the top of the stone several times with Dawn dish liquid, but after a few hours more oil oozes to the surface (visible in photo). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm open to removing the stone from the wood if the glue can be dissolved without harming the wood or stone, but would prefer to leave it as is. Not sure what kind of finish is on the wood, some kind of oil paint maybe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aSv5L.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aSv5L.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;oil stone&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More info: the stone was severely dished when I got it, about 3/32&quot; lower in the middle than the sides. I flattened on a wet cinder block, highly recommend that method, took about 10 minutes. Very fast, accurate, and cheap. Only did that until it was flat, didn't remove any material from the middle of the stone. It's fairly smooth, feels like magazine paper. I'd say it is a fine or superfine grit, slow to remove material but good for honing. I thought it was a black Arkansas stone, but as I clean it the color appears a bit more gray-ish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6079" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-03-29T07:31:38.890" LastActivityDate="2021-02-23T16:25:04.330" Title="How to clean sharpening stone in wood case?" Tags="|sharpening|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8449" CreationDate="2019-03-28T23:07:45.080" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;...after a few hours more oil oozes to the surface...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil oozes from the surface because it has soaked into the porous stone.  It may continue to do so for some time considering that it is an old well used sharpening stone.  To have any success in getting the oil out may require immersing the stone in a solvent for some period of time.  Dawn in water may not be able to soak into the stone well to dissolve oil that has penetrated deeper.  Of course submerging the stone (and wood base) for an extended period may also damage the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The glue could easily be one that is not easily dissolved as well.  In addition glue under the center of the stone may not even be accessible to any solvent.  My guess is that since you want to preserve your grandfathers stone you should not mess with it much more than you have.  You could easily damage it beyond repair.  Since you do not want the original oils on your tools, one possible alternative might be to make a new box and stone inspired by the original and pass both stones on to the next generation in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2019-03-28T23:07:45.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8449" CreationDate="2019-03-29T07:36:15.213" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I tried cleaning the top of the stone several times with Dawn dish liquid, after a few hours more oil oozes to the surface (visible in photo). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep going. Cleaning old stones is invariably a multi-step process, so you've already started on the road towards it being clean and just need to continue. There's more on cleaning from me in answer to this older Question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4142/how-can-i-identify-sharpening-stones&quot;&gt;How can I identify sharpening stones?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in the link above, one of the established ways of cleaning a stone is to soak in petrol (gasoline), kerosene or another solvent&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. You can do this with the stone in the wood since organic solvents generally won't harm wood in any way, except sometimes removing a little colour&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, but there's a good chance you'll lose the original finish with this method. Although initially very smelly fear not, the solvent smell will dissipate as it dries out and eventually the stone will have no odour to speak of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can take a heck of a lot of work to get all oil from a stone that has absorbed lots of it over decades of use, or was oil-filled in the factory in the case of synthetic stones. Expect the process to require numerous steps and to take a long time and just set to it. As there's no predicting how much oil needs to be removed and how much each step of cleaning will remove, it's one of those tasks that takes as long as it takes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend cleaned out a Norton stone a year or so ago to see how it worked without the factory fill (many users report they cut much faster without and that's what he wanted). I believe it took a half-dozen soaks in boiling caustic water before it stopped releasing the original &quot;oil filling&quot;! Incidentally the factory fill is actually a grease, not a liquid oil, so there's a hint there — if one wants to fill a stone so that it doesn't continually absorb oil like a sponge don't soak it in oil but instead use something more like Vaseline&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm open to removing the stone from the wood if the glue can be dissolved without harming the wood or stone, but would prefer to leave it as is. Not sure what kind of finish is on the wood, some kind of oil paint maybe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's likely you'd break the base if you tried to pry the stone out, and depending on the type of stone you risk breaking or chipping that too. Stones tend not to be glued in place BTW, historically they were set into plaster, although a user might use any glue or adhesive product he had to hand — casein, pitch, hide glue, epoxy, Bondo, you name it o_O&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The safest way to get a stone free is to deliberately set out to lose the wooden case. It's of course up to each owner to decide for themselves which is more valuable, the stone or the case it's in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try boiling water. This has been used to successfully release stones from wooden bases (works especially well if hide glue had been used) and the wood might dry later without harm, but old wood will often split after even brief soaking in hot water when it subsequently dries out. So although this seems like the gentlest option it still comes with a risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;More info: the stone was severely dished when I got it, about 3/32&quot; lower in middle than the sides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wondered at how flat it was for a stone of some vintage, you did a good job flattening it. Although a dished or 'swayed' stone can still be used (that's how they get so dished in the first place) stones are far more useful when as close to flat as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I flattened on a wet cinder block, highly recommend that method, took about 10 minutes. Very fast, accurate, and cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used that method too and was pleasantly surprised at how well it worked on some stones! Although hard naturals are a chore to abrade and one of the other established methods (using some form of commercial abrasive) may need to be adopted. A little use of abrasive is generally desirable to dress a stone's surface after flattening on something coarse&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; The solvent is contaminated with oil after this, so either needs to be reserved for cleaning other oily or greasy things (note: can be useful in the restoration of old tools) or A, disposed of in a suitable manner for your area, or B, left to evaporate until only the oil/grease remains and then that residue can be thrown out in the household refuse as it's no longer classed as toxic waste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Oil-contaminated wood can actually be soaked in solvent for hours or days if necessary to try to get it clean, a technique sometimes used in the restoration of gun stocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; The packaging of some older synthetic stones included instructions to soak in a pan of hot petroleum jelly. This was to temper cutting speed but it has the effect of keeping oil on the surface. I've found that just smearing a stone with Vaseline can do a lot to reduce its absorbency, although the soaking wouldn't be hard to arrange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt; Stones can be made to cut a little faster or a lot slower depending on the surface texture, a process sometimes referred to as &lt;em&gt;grading&lt;/em&gt;. On a single-grit stone (both natural and synthetic) this can be used to advantage to provide two faces with different properties. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-03-29T07:36:15.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8453" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-30T19:48:39.057" Score="2" ViewCount="226" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is marked General, Made in the USA No. 811 1/16 on one side, 1/8 on the other &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VTB2k.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VTB2k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6270" LastActivityDate="2019-03-31T16:32:58.410" Title="What tool is this?" Tags="|hand-tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8453" CreationDate="2019-03-30T20:01:07.443" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to say an edge chamfer tool. For taking off the hard corner of a board. Like a chamfer bit for a router. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2917" LastEditorUserId="2917" LastEditDate="2019-03-31T16:32:58.410" LastActivityDate="2019-03-31T16:32:58.410" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8457" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-01T08:22:51.320" Score="2" ViewCount="993" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been planing / jointing rough sawn wood recently and edge joining it to create a larger board. Every single time the finished board ends up with a big twist (diagonally opposed corners too low). I need help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the details:&#xA;Wood I’m using is redwood (pine). Individual board sizes are 40cm long by 10cm wide and 2.4cm deep. I am edge joining 5 of these using kreg pocket holes and clamps to make a 40 x 50cm board. &#xA;I’ve noticed the individuals boards have a slight twist and have been able to remove most of this on the planer (jointer). I then feed it through the thicknesser (planer). I obviously get the edges straight and square too. &#xA;I suspect there is enough twist left in the boards so that it causes the overall board to end up twisted but I can’t work out why the twist would be so subtle in the individual boards and so exaggerated when joined. &#xA;I use cauls when joining and the wood is left in my house to climatise for a few weeks beforehand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m totally stuck so would appreciate any help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6279" LastActivityDate="2019-04-09T14:58:56.953" Title="Twist in board after glue up!" Tags="|glue|jointer|warp|twist|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8458" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-02T14:04:54.390" Score="2" ViewCount="580" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to install a butcherblock countertop in my kitchen but can only find 25” depth which is only 1/4” overhang. Can I add a strip of wood to the back of it to widen it?  Or perhaps make a trim around the front?  Best way to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6283" LastActivityDate="2019-04-10T21:52:34.003" Title="Making a 25” deep butcher block counter deeper" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8459" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8465" CreationDate="2019-04-03T09:49:42.407" Score="0" ViewCount="236" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a &quot;weekend woodworker&quot; (boxes, small shelves/cabinets, stuff like that).&#xA;Now I'm thinking about replacing one of my wardrobes, and was thinking about doing it myself. The problem is: in Romania, solid wood is actually cheaper than processed wood (MDF, plywood, etc) with veneer faces (because I want an overall natural wood look).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is (I didn't find anything concrete searching here or on the internet):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When making solid wood furniture, do I need to worry about the wood cracking because the different faces expand at different rates through-out the year?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More explicitly, if the sides, top, and bottom planks/faces will be screwed to each other, will the planks expand/shrink at different rates, thus making the wood susceptible to cracking at the screws? They, of course, will be from the same type of lumber, with the backing from plywood. But even so, I'm worried one of the planks will expand more/less than the adjacent ones and put a strain on the screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about making it either from oak or more possibly walnut, 2m (6.5 ft) height, 1m (3.2ft) width with divider in the middle, and 0.7m (2.3ft) depth. So the faces/planks will be about 2*0.7m (6.5*2.3ft).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any info/hint you can give me will be much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Since I am clearly misunderstood: if the grains are running in the same direction, will any of the faces expand more/less than the faces next to it, thus cracking the wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Pvrf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Pvrf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(please excuse my crude drawing, I am in a hurry) Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT2: would it be better if I made my own boards/planks from quartersawn lumber (I can easily get it in 1.8*1.8cm (0.7*0.7in)) with each piece turned 90 deg cw (thus making the grain in each plank run in all directions, which if I understand correctly, will make it more dimensionally stable)? Or would that just be even worse? (elbow grease and tools are not a problem. I have enough tools / friends with tools, and I'm not skittish about work...I actually like working with my hands on projects like this :) )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NvqHV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NvqHV.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6290" LastEditorUserId="6290" LastEditDate="2019-04-04T09:59:43.050" LastActivityDate="2019-04-04T12:15:52.897" Title="Solid wood furniture faces expand at different rates?" Tags="|joinery|design|wood-movement|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8459" CreationDate="2019-04-03T15:35:52.717" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;At your skill level, I really advise against this. Unless you can find a source of real, quartersawn planks, anything you build up to 70 cm wide is going to warp with the seasons. The only exception is if you use frame-and-panel construction, essentially making each surface as a door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If what you want is basically a simple slab for the 4 walls and back, you are much better off with plywood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should take a clue from door construction. Look at old doors. They are roughly the same size as your wardrobe components. For &quot;finished&quot; doors, frame and panel is the way it's done. Unless you want your wardrobe to look like it's made of barn doors joined together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="463" LastActivityDate="2019-04-03T15:35:52.717" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8461" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8464" CreationDate="2019-04-04T03:04:43.990" Score="1" ViewCount="361" Body="&lt;p&gt;The joint between these two boards was very nice, snug and barely visible before gluing. It's about 20&quot; and has three small biscuits. However, when I applied Titebond and waited about 30 min, when I joined the boards the joint wasn't snug any more. I figure that's because the biscuits didn't fit snugly with the glue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I prevent the glue application from spoiling the snugness of the joint? Could it be because I waited for the glue to dry 30 min before inserting the biscuits? Should I have inserted them when I first applied the glue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7of5s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7of5s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="328" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-04-04T09:13:44.563" LastActivityDate="2019-04-04T09:13:44.563" Title="How to prevent joint gaps after applying glue" Tags="|joinery|technique|glue|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8462" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8488" CreationDate="2019-04-04T04:52:08.423" Score="6" ViewCount="1038" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just starting to learn how to use the skew chisel in spindle turning and after watching one of Alan Lacer's videos I decided to invest in a safety drive center, shown below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/taVxM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/taVxM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Safety Drive Center&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He had his students actually practice dig-ins with the safety centers to see what causes the dig-in and to change future behavior to avoid them. The dig-in with the safety center causes the piece to stop turning (with adjustable &quot;cut-offs&quot;), which is different than what you would see with a spur drive. It seems like a good way to learn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do have a question on its use. I know the tension of the pin can be adjusted via the hole on the side of the drive. Do I want any portion of the pin exposed between the cup on the end of the drive and the wood? Or do I always want to tighten the tailstock (which has a live center) such that the cup of the safety center in the headstock presses flush against the end of the wooden piece? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for comments/direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="853" LastActivityDate="2019-04-14T02:03:04.000" Title="Wood Lathe Safety Drive Center: Correct Usage?" Tags="|safety|lathe|woodturning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8463" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8466" CreationDate="2019-04-04T05:54:12.507" Score="3" ViewCount="202" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is a DIYer who works on smaller projects, such as cabinets, desks, lamps, etc., would I have any benefit from owning a 5hp 14&quot; Powermatic saw? More specifically, it is pretty clear that a saw like this will give me a greater depth of cut. But will it also make it easier to make smaller cuts and will the end result be better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5067" LastActivityDate="2019-04-05T17:03:03.853" Title="Why a 5hp 14&quot; table saw?" Tags="|table-saw|power-tools|cutting|rip-cut|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8461" CreationDate="2019-04-04T09:11:33.433" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Could it be because I waited for the glue to dry 30 min before inserting the biscuits? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, very much so! When using all types of PVA glues (white or yellow) you glue and assemble &lt;em&gt;expeditiously&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should I have inserted them when I first applied the glue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's standard that you glue and assemble in one continuous operation and without delay. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't just to prevent an issue like this where it appears partially dried glue may be holding the joint apart in places, it's also vital for maximum strength&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your photo also seems to indicate that you're using too much glue. Now just to be clear, &lt;em&gt;an excess of glue is a good thing&lt;/em&gt;, but the amount to aim for is just enough that squeeze-out shows consistently along the joint and not for large amounts of glue to drip out. You'll eventually get a feel for the amount that's in the Goldilocks zone, but don't sweat it if you overshoot the mark every now and then (it's much better than the opposite which can indicate the joint is under-glued).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;One additional point if needed&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I'm adding this for future readers as much as yourself, biscuits don't add strength to a joint like this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a long edge joint like this, which if done right glues together very strongly&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, biscuits (as well as splines, dowels or Dominos) serve as alignment aids &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt;. But if your glue-up strategy is good, so that board alignment is assured e.g. by using &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1986/what-advantages-do-f-style-clamps-offer-for-gluing-up-a-thick-laminate/1988#1988&quot;&gt;cauls or a clamping jig&lt;/a&gt;, they become superfluous and you can keep them for other joints where they do add strength, such as a 90° butt joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; See the bullet points &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1780/whats-the-best-way-to-widen-a-butcherblock-countertop/1782#1782&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for a quick summary of what makes for a good glue joint. And a little on the likely causes of joint failures in the second footnote &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4233/what-are-the-different-grain-directions-and-how-do-they-affect-joint-strength/4240#4240&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Literally creating a joint stronger than the wood around it, even in much tougher woods than pine or fir.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-04-04T09:11:33.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8459" CreationDate="2019-04-04T12:15:52.897" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems like the main question is about wood movement in different parts of the same piece (eg, top vs bottom). You do not have to worry about the wood in one part of the cabinet moving at a faster rate than wood at a different part of the cabinet for most furniture you are likely to encounter. For example, you might encounter this with a countertop that is expected to get wet frequently, but mostly that is not the case. As others have mentioned, the much more important consideration is wood moving with respect to its grain orientation, which a foundation for all of traditional solid wood joinery, especially frame and panel construction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2019-04-04T12:15:52.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8463" CreationDate="2019-04-04T14:22:57.803" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a DIYer, there's no compelling reason for you to go out shopping for a 14&quot; table saw. That said, if you're asking because there happens to be a 14&quot; table saw available to you for an irresistible price, there's nothing inherently &lt;em&gt;wrong&lt;/em&gt; with it, but there are some things to be aware of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're in the US, &lt;strong&gt;you won't be able to get 5&amp;nbsp;hp out of a standard wall socket&lt;/strong&gt;, so you'll need to have the right electrical supply available. At &lt;em&gt;minimum&lt;/em&gt;, it'll require 220&amp;nbsp;V service. But more likely than that, it'll require a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Three-phase&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;3-phase power supply&lt;/a&gt;, which pretty much only exists in a commercial or industrial setting. Check the specifications of the machine and make sure that the electrical power you have available will work for this saw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It'll be heavier, and more difficult to get into position in your shop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blades and accessories will be more expensive.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mainly, the advantages that come with a larger saw blade are the depth of cut you can achieve (see note), but cut &lt;em&gt;quality&lt;/em&gt; is tied more to how carefully and precisely your machine is set up, not how big the blade is, so it wouldn't necessarily make your end result any better. I don't see how it would make smaller cuts any easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: a saw this size is an expensive, professional machine. As such, it'll probably have nice features and great build quality, but those are more related to it being a professional machine than the fact that it has a large blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5190" LastEditorUserId="5190" LastEditDate="2019-04-05T17:03:03.853" LastActivityDate="2019-04-05T17:03:03.853" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8467" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8473" CreationDate="2019-04-04T19:34:43.100" Score="6" ViewCount="594" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a handful of glass jars of shellac (mixed up from flakes &amp;amp; denatured alcohol) that are now past their expiry date. Some of the shellac is still fluid, some of them just have a tiny amount that is sort of gummy, I imagine some may have some shellac dried onto the inside of the glass. There is not a lot of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to re-use the jars if possible. I don't believe I can pour denatured alcohol mixtures down the drain where I am. But to properly clean the jars out of all of the 'expired' shellac &amp;amp; avoid contamination with a new batch, I imagine I would have to buy and use even more denatured alcohol (or some other alcohol) to use as solvent, and use up more containers for depositing it at the hazardous waste facility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a simpler / less wasteful way to re-use jars that I am missing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3824" LastActivityDate="2021-03-16T09:11:07.127" Title="What is an efficient way to re-use jars containing old shellac for storing new shellac?" Tags="|finishing|shellac|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8468" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8478" CreationDate="2019-04-04T20:25:31.510" Score="4" ViewCount="789" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find it much easier to get repeatable sharpening results with a honing guide, but I have noticed that the plane blades I sharpen with my Eclipse style guide are ending up with a different geometry than I want, and it is preventing me closing the mouth on my smoothing plane very tightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When looking at the blade from above, the angle between the edge to the long sides is changing, so that the edge is developing a skew. My theory is that this happens because the blade tapers in width measurably along its length (&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: approximately 1/16&quot; over its length), and also because the right jaw on the honing guide is flat and the left is curved. This inherently presents the blade to the stone at a skew to its long axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zzk63.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zzk63.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Depiction of how tapered blade and sharpening guide geometry conspire to change blade geometry&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose it is also possible that this is because I am right handed, so maybe I am bearing down harder on the right of the blade without noticing, but the geometry involved seems very suspicious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason this is a problem is that even with the correct lateral adjustment, there's a point where the blade is slightly skewed in the mouth and the mouth can't be closed as much as is recommended on smoothing planes, because one side of the blade is just plain further forward than the other. It also makes it difficult to set the cap iron because then the cap iron needs to be at an angle to the blade's long axis and can interfere with the sides of the plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do other people deal with this issue? Is there something weird with what I'm doing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: This is an old Stanley plane blade that is doing this. I compared it to a new retail Stanley plane blade &amp;amp; the new one DOES NOT have a noticeable taper along its length. Did blades change from tapered to untapered at some point? Do I just have a weird blade? It came from eBay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have a Kell honing guide -- but the jaws are both parallel so I'm not sure that would help much, and it seems like it would be a less secure clamp on a tapered blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3824" LastEditorUserId="3824" LastEditDate="2019-04-04T20:53:27.247" LastActivityDate="2019-04-08T09:34:36.443" Title="Eclipse style honing guide changing blade geometry &amp; preventing tight mouth setting on planes" Tags="|sharpening|plane|blade|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8469" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-04T21:17:35.530" Score="1" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently attempting to make a table that folds in order to be easily stowed away. I'm currently looking at either a Self Supporting Sewing Machine Hinge, a Folding Flap Table Hinge, or Adjustable Folding Door Hinge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to these, I was hoping to have an elbow style hinge that would be on the outside of my rectangular table the spans the joint where the hinge is on both sides of the table. Ideally it locks at 180 degrees, along with the rest of my hinges. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of my issues is that I am unsure of the weight limits of these hinges as they are unlisted. Is the best way to determine this to buy them install them in some test wood and stack weight on them until they break? Is there a guide somewhere, or some math I can do to calculate this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, for future projects, what's a good way to identify a hinge I see in the wild and its limitations? Other than searching online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5575" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-04-05T16:41:03.300" LastActivityDate="2019-04-05T16:41:03.300" Title="Hinge Identification, Usage, and Limitations" Tags="|furniture|design|table-making|hinges|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8458" CreationDate="2019-04-05T14:00:01.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding piece in front probably means you need to remove a little material to get rid of rounding and since you will probably want use glue, you need to expose bare wood.&#xA;It seems like adding at back is easier, since you can use screws - no need to remove material. Also added wood piece can be shaped to match wall irregularities (instead of shaping whole countertop).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6298" LastActivityDate="2019-04-05T14:00:01.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8463" CreationDate="2019-04-05T16:38:00.667" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could cut some really big coves!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2019-04-05T16:38:00.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8467" CreationDate="2019-04-05T18:43:15.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can redisolve the shellac by adding more alcohol, do so, then pour the resulting mixture into something disposable like an aluminum pie pan or even just a big wad of paper towel. Wait for the alcohol to evaporate, then dispose of the resulting mess in the trash. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It still means throwing some stuff out, but a roll of paper towel is most likely cheaper than some new jars, and paper &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; grow on trees (right next to lumber).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2019-04-05T18:43:15.470" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8467" CreationDate="2019-04-06T09:19:27.513" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a firm believer in reusing jars used in finishing as much as possible. Especially very small jars that are handy for the small amounts of mixed finish that a single project often calls for, I will often go to the trouble of cleaning and reusing them. However, if the jars are common it often isn't worth the effort to clean them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it sounds like it would be better for you to just get more jars since you asked about how you might reuse them efficiently here's an option. Rather than using copious amounts of denatured alcohol (which will certainly work but might be considered a waste of the solvent) you can clean using a basic or alkaline water solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shellac is soluble at high pH, hence one of the common old methods of removing it relied on ammonia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you make up a strong solution of washing soda that should be sufficient to clean the jars of shellac residue, and it will work even better if it's warm or hot. Best to wear gloves when doing any scrubbing that may be needed&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A caustic soda (lye) solution will most definitely work too although lye is more hazardous to use and handle, and great care should be exercised if you go this route&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. And of course the aforementioned ammonia will work if you can get that cheaply where you are. Use appropriate cautions with ammonia&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;shellac... now past [its] expiry date&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to touch on this. There are rules of thumb about when shellac should no longer be used &lt;em&gt;but be guided by what you have there&lt;/em&gt;. Proscriptive rules about how long shellac lasts once made up into liquid form are not to be relied upon because they take no account of the variability of shellac, a natural product (that may be further processed), and varied storage conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite how long it's &lt;em&gt;supposed&lt;/em&gt; to last once made into a liquid different users report wildly different shelf lives for their shellacs. Shelf life differences vary based on their local conditions, the type (colour) of the shellac in question as well as the age of the flakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With &quot;past its expiry date&quot; shellac test it and see rather that toss it based on an arbitrary date. If it dries fast enough, doesn't remain soft or sticky then it's still good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Because the solution will tend to de-fat your skin. If you've ever washed your hands too many times with soap you'll know what this feels like and will want to avoid a recurrence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Gloves and eye protection should be considered mandatory when using lye. &lt;em&gt;Read up on the dangers if not familiar with it!&lt;/em&gt; And something not always mentioned, be sure to use a container that can take heat — lye going into solution is an exothermic reaction and at the extreme can boil the water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; The fumes aren't pleasant to inhale and can sting the eyes so it may be best to work outdoors. Just to note there are still very strong solutions of ammonia available in some markets (stronger than common &quot;household ammonia&quot; dilution) but my advice would to be steer well clear of them for this purpose unless you know what you're doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-04-06T09:19:27.513" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8474" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-06T22:15:17.137" Score="3" ViewCount="863" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Grizzly table saw has a Biesemeyer style fence, When I set up and measure for a cut, as soon as I start tightening up the lock lever the fence moves to the right. If I leave the lock in this position and tap the fence hard back to the proper place and continue locking the lever it doesn't move. Anyone know a solution to this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6302" LastActivityDate="2019-04-17T23:47:30.083" Title="Biesemeyer style fence moves when locking it down" Tags="|table-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8475" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-07T22:09:05.170" Score="3" ViewCount="1298" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a natural furniture beeswax paste  with turpentine in it. I've rubbed the paste into a new cutting board, but I'm wondering the board is safe to cut food on with the turpentine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6305" LastEditorUserId="6309" LastEditDate="2019-04-10T01:39:19.837" LastActivityDate="2019-04-10T01:39:19.837" Title="Cutting board wax?" Tags="|cutting-board|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8475" CreationDate="2019-04-07T23:41:37.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may be difficult to know what exactly is in the turpentine in your product so it is difficult to even determine what residues are left when the turpentine evaporates.  Reviews I found on the internet are not clear about toxicity details. I use beeswax mixed 4-1 with medical grade mineral oil (available from any drug store). Just warm the mix up in a sauce pan, stir it into a mix, and once the wax melts pour into a storage bowl and let it cool.  The paste is food safe and easy to apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2019-04-07T23:41:37.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8475" CreationDate="2019-04-08T07:42:53.303" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should be perfectly safe as far as the solvent goes. Regardless if it's made with all real turpentine or only partly with turps, added for the smell, while partly (or mostly) being another solvent&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; (a version of mineral spirits/white spirit/Stoddard solvent) these are volatile organic solvents. Volatile solvents are just that, they evaporate and when they're gone they're gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this doesn't mean the board would be safe to use after the solvent smell has completely vanished. It's likely that it will be, but random Internet folks can't assure you of this. Often with a query like this there's the recommendation to contact the manufacturer, and generally this is a good idea. Here though, even if there is nothing potentially toxic in the wax polish they may not [be allowed to] tell you it's safe because in this litigious age they can only make a safety claim if they've had the finish tested and certified safe&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; I always include a mention of this when the topic comes up, cutting boards actually don't need to be waxed. or oiled, or treated in any way to be safe or to help them last. This is primarily done for cosmetic reasons, not for safety (even when the claim is the opposite) and furthermore boards, wooden utensils etc. may in fact be safest when left bare..... as long as they're washed as needed of course. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Please notice the cynicism here, &quot;natural&quot; and &quot;all natural&quot; etc. labels on products often require zero accountability from the makers and as such can be empty claims. Plus, natural products may not be better or inherently safer — highly relevant in this context, turpentine is indeed a natural product but is actually slightly &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; toxic than the synthetic solvent now used commonly in its place!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Which is why there's now a widespread belief that only certain finishes are food-safe, when in fact the weight of evidence is that &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; finishes are. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/8305/most-durable-foodsafe-finish-to-highlight-chatoyancy/8306#8306&quot;&gt;Most durable foodsafe finish to highlight chatoyancy&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-04-08T07:42:53.303" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8468" CreationDate="2019-04-08T09:34:36.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although the taper in the iron seems to be the primary cause of the problem here, in fact edges going out of square isn't at all uncommon after many cycles of honing. Most woodworkers, unless they've taken deliberate steps to avoid doing so, habitually bear down more strongly on one side than the other when honing and over time this tends to produce edges with a slight skew. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can happen both with jig users or with freehanders, although the problem will tend to be great with the latter because the blade can tilt more easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get rid of the skew in a number of ways: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the most direct method is probably to square the edge at the grinder, grind a new primary and then hone as normal;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hone it away freehand, I suppose most freehanders would argue that this is the easiest way to deal with a fairly minor skew;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hone in the jig while bearing down hard on the side with the 'high' corner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the two hone-it-away options, so that the work doesn't take an age it should be done on a suitably rough or fast-cutting honing surface (do note, not necessarily the same thing) rather than just any honing stone. But although you can remove the skew in one go it doesn't have to be done all at once. You can improve this in stages through subsequent honing cycles until the edge is back to square. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Avoiding it in future&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Taking more care as you hone using the venerable Eclipse-style jig can avoid this. Now that you've identified the tendency you can compensate for it and should be able to maintain a squarer edge from now on. Last-minute thought: maybe you can rotate the cap iron 180°, slide it back down towards the edge and tighten the screw to use its parallel sides to hold the iron square in the jig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honing freehand can certainly avoid this because the taper in the iron becomes irrelevant, this is the option I would personally recommend (for a number of reasons) although I understand fully if you aren't able to or just don't want to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'd suggest that using a different honing guide is the ideal solution for an existing user of honing guides. Rest assured, this isn't trying to steer you to one of the high-dollar modern honing guides by L-N or Veritas (&lt;em&gt;have you seen what they're charging for these now?!&lt;/em&gt;), or one of the sometimes-costly vintage models, instead it's the cheapest &lt;em&gt;and arguably the best&lt;/em&gt; honing guide out there, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/6708/whats-a-quick-easy-home-made-honing-guide/6712#6712&quot;&gt;What&amp;#39;s a quick, easy home-made honing guide?&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not only does it cost mere pennies but most could knock one up in 10-15 minutes without having to go to the hardware store to buy any parts (the simplest iteration only requires two wood screws). And it uses up a small scrap or two of wood that may be too small to be of any use otherwise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everyone reading this who is into sharpening with a jig, or wants to try it out, should go and make themselves one now. I'll wait.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Did blades change from tapered to untapered at some point? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, but not in the way you're asking. Most references you'll read to tapered irons are tapered in thickness (thick at the edge), not in width, although you do occasionally see vintage irons which taper in both ways. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might have a rare iron that was clipped unevenly from the stock sheet, and QC just didn't catch it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't imagine how it could have happened accidentally through use, but it's possible it was tapered by a previous owner. Perhaps a bad dent on one side was ground out? The upper portion of irons remain unhardened and the steel can be really quite soft, so bad distortions, including mushrooming from hammer adjustment, are sometimes seen on older irons from Bailey-pattern planes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the mouth can't be closed as much as is recommended on smoothing planes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although not part of your main query I want to touch on this because you mentioned it. A closed-up mouth is not a must in a smoothing plane, although in both historical and modern sources you'll often read that a tight mouth is good (and not just for smoothers). But the evidence of old woodies tells us a great deal about just how big a plane's mouth can be while the plane remains usable,.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cap iron is much more effective at controlling tearout than mouth size and can do the job solo. While you can use both in concert it's far simpler and more straightforward to use just one, and the one to favour is the cap iron. This allows the frog to be a set-it-and-forget it part of the plane, and a poll of woodworkers will find that the majority rarely or never move their frogs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's more here on setting the cap iron in a few previous Answers e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5460/hand-plane-controls-bevel-down/5462#5462&quot;&gt;hand plane controls (bevel down)&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/7702/mouth-of-a-plane/7710#7710&quot;&gt;Mouth of a Plane&lt;/a&gt; You might also find this of interest, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4763/different-ways-to-set-up-a-number-4-bench-plane/4766#4766&quot;&gt;Different ways to set up a Number 4 bench plane&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-04-08T09:34:36.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8479" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-08T12:27:44.320" Score="4" ViewCount="211" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a primary school student I took woodworking classes and recall the teacher sharpening the gouges and chisels that we used on the lathe. I use the word &lt;em&gt;sharpening&lt;/em&gt; but that is, perhaps an assumption. He ground and polished the cutting edges of the tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Years later in the workshop of a university department, I asked the instrument maker how sharp the cutting tools on the metal lathe needed to be. He said that he thought that hardness, not sharpness, was really the issue with metal lathe cutters, and then simply assumed that I fully understood what I'd been told.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then yesterday, using a pair of old hair clippers, I caught myself wondering whether they needed sharpening, which reminded me once more of the sharp vs. hard distinction which I never did investigate.&#xA;Does it make sense to talk about wood-lathe tools as being sharp as distinct from being hard, and vice versa for metal lathe tools? I can think of all sorts of ways in which wood is not like metal (!) but what are the differences that lead to qualitatively (as opposed to quantitatively) different characteristics of the cutting tools? ... and do hair-clippers get sharpened, or does the hardness of the steel versus the softness of hair solve all problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6309" LastActivityDate="2019-04-08T13:34:08.953" Title="Lathes and cutting machines: sharpness versus hardness" Tags="|tools|sharpening|lathe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8479" CreationDate="2019-04-08T13:34:08.953" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hardness and sharpness are two distinct attributes that can be applied to these devices and/or materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instrument maker is off-base if he considers that sharpness is not important or a factor to be considered when dealing with steel cutting tools. Certainly hardness is important. A soft steel cutter will possibly cut if suitably sharp, but will not last long. A hard steel cutter will not necessarily cut if it is not appropriately shaped and sharpened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use high speed steel cutting tools on a mini lathe and have superior performance when the tool is sharpened to the profile required for a particular task. That performance is improved if I use a diamond hone on the cutting edge. The resulting surface finish is quite a bit nicer with a honed tool than with a sharpened only tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grinding is the method for sharpening steel. Typical grinding stones are coarse grit, even the fine grinding wheels are not particularly fine. The edges that are created by sharpening will have microscopic irregularities that transfer to the workpiece. A honed edge reduces these irregularities and the improved sharpness also reduces (slightly) the load on the machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cutting tool such as hair clippers use a shearing action. A dull edge on the twin cutting edges will also increase the load on the machine, although it is likely powerful enough to overcome this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sharpening the shears will improve the speed of the cut, reduce the strands of snagged/stuck hair and at the microscopic level, improve the quality of cut on the hair. I would not be surprised to learn that one can incite split-ends by using poorly sharpened shears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The steel in hair cutting shears are most-certainly hardened, and also sharpened. Un-hardened steel will not hold an edge for very long. The action of steel in shears, movement against each other, will also dull steel, hardened or otherwise. The difference between the two is how much time is involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've sharpened ordinary scissors, also called shears, and the improvement in performance is striking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2019-04-08T13:34:08.953" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8457" CreationDate="2019-04-09T14:58:56.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming that you're doing the glue-up right after the milling you describe.  It has been worthwhile for me on a few occasions to let the wood rest stickered overnight and mill it again if necessary (it often was necessary, the wood moved overnight.)  If you have not let the wood sit so that it might de-stress (twist/cup/bow again) I'd recommend giving that a try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1457" LastActivityDate="2019-04-09T14:58:56.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8482" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-09T20:12:05.513" Score="3" ViewCount="2281" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am fairly new to woodworking and I need to cut some hearts in 18 mm MDF - please see the design at the bottom of the post, including a revision inspired by @WhatRoughBeast. The radius of the curve is circa 30 mm and the default blade which came with my Bosch PST 650 is clearly unsuitable. I had a look at the manual - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bosch-do-it.com/gb/en/diy/tools/pst-650-3165140653251-199894.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt; contains &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bosch-do-it.de/media/garden/gardenmedia/leaflets/576152_Leaflet_PST_Compact_Tools_2012_eng-uk-17pdf..pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this direct link to the download, you may notice the link contains the extension .pdf twice but I checked and it works&lt;/a&gt;. I included a snippet below anyway, it says I need a &quot;T 308 BOF&quot; but these are only pricey and only available online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My question is, what is the next best blade I can go for?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;T 101 AO and T 101 AOF are both for clean curves but only up to 15 mm. I would imagine they can still produce decent results in a slightly thicker sheet - or am I better of with T 244 D, which are in stock in my local Selco, and OK for up to 50 mm but branded &quot;fast&quot; as opposed to &quot;clean&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My budget is limited and I don't use the jigsaw that much so I don't want to buy a full pack of the wrong blades. I don't mind branded/unbranded - any suggestions would be appreciated.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cTDrj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cTDrj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Blade table&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RmZqg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RmZqg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Design preview&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ic5rD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ic5rD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;design v2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6311" LastEditorUserId="6311" LastEditDate="2019-04-09T22:59:53.550" LastActivityDate="2020-01-29T18:41:20.183" Title="Alternative to Bosch T 308 BOF for tight curve in 18 mm MDF" Tags="|blade|saw-blade|jigsaw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8458" CreationDate="2019-04-10T21:52:34.003" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;McMaster Carr sells butcher block up to 36&quot; deep. They are found under wood workbench tops, but are safe for food service. I've had my hands on many of them in maple, and they are just what you want in a butcher block. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6317" LastActivityDate="2019-04-10T21:52:34.003" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8484" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8485" CreationDate="2019-04-11T21:31:17.783" Score="0" ViewCount="63" Body="&lt;p&gt;How would I go about making this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/135-degree-Corner-Edge-Molding-trim-dollhouse-1pc-23/192652458710?hash=item2cdafb3ad6:g:bjsAAOSw~4BcAIqC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/135-degree-Corner-Edge-Molding-trim-dollhouse-1pc-23/192652458710?hash=item2cdafb3ad6:g:bjsAAOSw~4BcAIqC&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I.E 135 / 45 degree wooden trim, how do I make this firstly with power tools then with hand tools? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5498" LastActivityDate="2019-04-11T23:41:20.363" Title="cutting wood trim" Tags="|trim|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8484" CreationDate="2019-04-11T23:20:07.977" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;With power tools you'll want to use a table saw.  Rip thin strips off a larger piece of stock, tilt your blade to the appropriate angle for the miter (22.5 degrees in this case), set your fence for the desired distance from the point to the edge, and rip them to width.  Since this is so small you'll probably want to set up featherboards and/or hold downs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For hand tools you'd basically do the same thing but with a hand saw and a plane.  Joint one edge of a larger board flat, then rip a strip off and plane it to thickness.  Then joint one edge square and layout your angle on the end of the board referencing that square edge.  Use a marking gauge to mark a line on both faces based on that layout and plane to the lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To glue them together I'd start by cutting a few blocks at the desired total angle (135) and cover them with packing tape.  Then run a strip of blue tape along the outside of the joint, add some glue, and fold them together.  Clamp (or tape) the blocks with the tape on them every foot or so to the inside of the work piece to make sure the angle is correct, and add tape to hold the rest of the glue line together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2019-04-11T23:41:20.363" LastActivityDate="2019-04-11T23:41:20.363" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8486" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-12T12:48:33.163" Score="2" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a hope chest for my daughter out of cherry, and wanted to use dovetails to join the panels. My hand-cutting skills aren't quite up to snuff for a fine detail like through dovetails, so I've been looking for appropriate alternatives. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently built a sled for cutting splines on a table saw, including a slot for dovetails cut on a router table. I've used it on small pieces and the splines do a fine job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But my real question is whether a dovetail key would add enough strength to the miter joint overall, and is it a good alternative to a through dovetail joint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6318" LastActivityDate="2019-04-12T12:48:33.163" Title="Would a dovetail key(s) in a beveled (mitered) chest panel be adequate strength for a larger box?" Tags="|joinery|dovetail|miter-joint|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8462" CreationDate="2019-04-14T02:03:04.000" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Friction drives allow the tail center to adjust the tension and allow or constrain spinning of the drive in reference to the blank.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drive is actually the outer rim, not the inner point.  The inner point is more for registering the blank and within reason, any tension is probably appropriate as long as the tail stock provides enough tension to turn the blank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastActivityDate="2019-04-14T02:03:04.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8489" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8504" CreationDate="2019-04-15T01:41:49.707" Score="1" ViewCount="1646" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a table with the walnut top shown below. (Sorry for the blurry photos).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I should fill this 8&amp;quot; long crack. I need to decide how. I'm considering cleaning up the edges and cutting/carving a piece to insert and sand down. Probably something a little darker. Another possibility is a filler - I've read elsewhere on this site about wood dust mixed into glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll treat the small crack at the lower right similarly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question(s):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What if I just leave it as is?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If filler, how do I make &amp;quot;wood dust&amp;quot; and what glue (I have titebond&#xA;on hand)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any other suggestions?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt; (since many people look at this question)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the table finished. The filled crack runs behind the orange model (which is a sequence of slices of a tesseract). I used 30 minute epoxy and sawdust from the same wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7qbRp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7qbRp.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g8iEw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g8iEw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qR15j.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qR15j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6323" LastEditorUserId="6323" LastEditDate="2021-05-16T00:20:08.517" LastActivityDate="2021-05-16T00:20:08.517" Title="Filling crack in walnut table top" Tags="|tabletop|filler|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8490" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-15T12:12:46.897" Score="0" ViewCount="373" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make some wood filler for a pine cabinet.&#xA;Was just going to mix wood glue and Pine sawdust..&#xA;Is there any ratio or anything I should do before i go ahead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5999" LastEditorUserId="5999" LastEditDate="2019-04-15T12:25:01.313" LastActivityDate="2020-07-21T22:03:20.307" Title="Making wood filler? - Pine + Glue" Tags="|wood|filler|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8491" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-15T16:46:14.977" Score="3" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to &quot;dye&quot; or otherwise treat wood so that is becomes transparent? Or at least, somewhat permits light to pass?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I've seen examples of very thin handplane shavings which have a similar 'diaphanous' effect but I'm thinking of a treatment which could be applied to thicker pieces (though not necessarily very thick).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="763" LastActivityDate="2019-04-17T09:36:45.860" Title="Can wood be &quot;dyed&quot; transparent?" Tags="|finishing|staining|coloring|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8491" CreationDate="2019-04-15T16:46:14.977" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently there is at least one method of doing this, by chemically breaking down or replacing wood lignin with acrylic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However this method may only be practical in laboratory-type settings, or at least its not like there is an obvious readily-available product to do it. But it could be with some more digging that a practical process could be described. So I thought it was at least worth posting an answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.acs.org/content/acs/en/pressroom/newsreleases/2019/april/transparent-wood-can-store-and-release-heat-video.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Transparent wood can store and release heat&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...scientists report a new kind of transparent wood that ... transmits&#xA;  light&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Three years ago, lead investigator Lars Berglund, Ph.D., and&#xA;  colleagues at KTH Royal Institute of Technology in Stockholm, Sweden,&#xA;  reported an &lt;em&gt;optically transparent wood&lt;/em&gt; in the ACS journal&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.acs.org/content/acs/en/pressroom/presspacs/2016/acs-presspac-march-30-2016/transparent-wood-could-one-day-help-brighten-homes-and-buildings.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Biomacromolecules&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;strong&gt;The researchers made the material by&#xA;  removing a light-absorbing component called lignin from the cell walls&#xA;  of balsa wood. To reduce light scattering, they incorporated acrylic&#xA;  into the porous wood scaffold.&lt;/strong&gt; The team could see through the&#xA;  material...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/ks7gZXQJczI?t=14&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video link&lt;/a&gt; in the source. Here is an example of one of the steps in altering the balsa wood:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/146NV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/146NV.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the results of a later stage:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6TUKu.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6TUKu.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interestingly this research seems oriented towards the use of wood as a construction material, but nonetheless might have some knock-on uses in other areas, maybe even fine woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="763" LastEditorUserId="763" LastEditDate="2019-04-17T09:36:45.860" LastActivityDate="2019-04-17T09:36:45.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8493" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-15T21:55:30.160" Score="3" ViewCount="1255" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to make a wooden table that has collapsible legs. My current idea is just to have the leg basically fold into itself but I'm unsure how sturdy this would be. This also means that the legs are folding in two places: The joint where the leg meets the table, and again at some point in the leg. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a feasible design? Is there something that would be sturdier while still maintaining collapsibility for storage? What sort of hinge would work for this build?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Should have mentioned this from the start, but the length and width of the table are both shorter than the height which is why I cant have a simple/solid height sized folding leg. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5575" LastEditorUserId="5575" LastEditDate="2019-04-25T00:02:19.133" LastActivityDate="2019-04-25T00:02:19.133" Title="Design: Adjustable/Collapsible Wooden Table Leg" Tags="|furniture|design|table-making|hinges|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8493" CreationDate="2019-04-16T05:10:19.727" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My current idea is just to have the leg basically fold into itself but I'm unsure how sturdy this would be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get around the obvious strength concern of a leg that folds in the centre by using bracing, but I think there are better ways to go about this as covered by the links below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to using fewer hinges there are a few existing designs that don't rely on them at all — instead of folding, the legs/leg assemblies slot into the underside of the top. This has the advantage of not having to fit hinges, but the disadvantage that the table isn't a single unit which stays connected (with the possibility of losing one or more legs somewhere down the line).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing I thought of when I read the Question title was folding or collapsible workbenches since I collected many of these early on as I searched for my ideal workbench design. And the first of those that came to mind was the Apartment Workbench:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BHcRX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BHcRX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Apartment workbench&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Apartment Workbench on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.closegrain.com/2013/12/apartment-workbench.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Close Grain blog&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also this collapsible workbench on Instructables: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/llZSA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/llZSA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Collapsible workbench&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/Collapsible-Workbench/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Collapsible Workbench on Instructables&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above may not look like much but the design is a paragon of simplicity, and I think this lends itself to most easily being adaptable to variations in materials and proportion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case you want to prioritise ruggedness and aesthetics matter less I'm also including this heavy-duty work table on the Popular Woodworking site:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ITCNg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ITCNg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Heavy-duty work table&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/heavy-duty-folding-work-table/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Link&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few other fold-up benches made from ply or OSB that are broadly similar to Tom Caspar's above including &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5ftNE87O8A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; posted by Woodsmith on their YouTube channel only 10 days ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-04-16T05:10:19.727" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8495" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8497" CreationDate="2019-04-16T14:06:06.317" Score="3" ViewCount="172" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering what would be a good choice for sealing a outdoor hot tub cover made from plywood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, would an outdoor paint or something like tung oil be better for a high heat and humidity situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6328" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-04-17T07:05:06.197" LastActivityDate="2019-04-17T07:05:06.197" Title="Hot tub lid, use paint or oil to seal wood?" Tags="|finishing|wood|plywood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8482" CreationDate="2019-04-17T03:27:47.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay, (rubs hands together)... ready for an answer. I'll try to combine information from the comments (and will happily edit based on feedback if I've misconstrued anything).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To your question specifically. The T101 blades (or a similar generic) will turn tight curves because of its thin back and cut fairly cleanly. Don't worry about the supposed 15mm depth restriction -- the blade is long enough to go through 18mm. (It won't cut quite as cleanly as the fleam cut teeth of the 308, but not far off in MDF. The 308, by the way won't turn tight curves easily because of the thick back of the blade.) The T244 will be a rougher cut due to the nature of the teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bad thing about the T101 and T244 blades is that they won't track straight lines as nicely as a more typical (thicker) blade. One might want to cut curves with the thin blade and then switch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also get away with using a normal 'clean for wood' blade with a thick back, and simply going back and forth to nibble up to the line. Just be sure to make enough room in the kerf that you can pivot the blade for a tight curve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the jigsaw, blades can skew off vertical when cutting tight curves. Be sure to do a test piece and see that the front and back are lined up to your needs. If you find too much skew, then slow down and do more back and forth nibbling, rather than straight ahead cutting. (The downside to the nibbling is that it'll take more cleanup afterwards.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately, you could drill the round parts with a forstner bit (sometimes called sawtooth, though there are slight technical differences) or a holesaw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A large forstner bit is non-cheap and ideally would be used in a drill press. Lacking a drill press, one would make a guide template with the same size hole and clamp it on your finish piece to constrain the forstner. (To make the first hole in the template, tack 3 strips of anything up against the sides of the forstner bit. The first template can be used to create an additional template that has two or four perfectly spaced holes.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The holesaw is cheaper, though slower. Again, a drill press would be ideal, but because the holesaw has a pilot bit, it's a little easier to drill accurate holes handheld. A guide template would guarantee that you didn't skitter off and mess up your final product. Tip: clean the mdf dust off the holesaw teeth regularly... the dust clogs the gullets, which creates heat, which leads to premature dulling of the holesaw teeth. Tip 2: drill a hole in the rim of the holesaw's cutting path (inside the heart where it'll be waste) to help sawdust get knocked off the teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be very clear: using a handheld drill and either the forstner or holesaw isn't ideal. Take it slow and position yourself in a way that doesn't get your arm ripped off when the bit binds. You also need to be perfectly perpendicular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go the round hole route, then cutting the straight lines down to the bottom point of the heart can be done with any old 'clean for wood' blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a complete aside, if I had 20 of these to do, I'd readily justify the purchase of a router and a template setup, but I understand that not everyone is as addicted to power tools as me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks @Graphus and  @SaSSafraS1232 for comments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2019-04-17T03:27:47.343" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2019-04-17T03:27:47.343" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8495" CreationDate="2019-04-17T07:02:55.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the plywood is of the right type it doesn't need to be sealed as far as protecting it goes, exterior-grade plywood is supposed to be resistant as-is. One classification of exterior plywood is WBP which stands for Water and Boil Proof (that's literally how it is tested). The reason to coat your hot tub cover should be to maintain its looks, and if the plywood is not an exterior grade no simple coating can be relied upon to make it last in such an environment&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;would an outdoor paint or something like tung oil be better for a high heat and humidity situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tung oil is, relatively speaking, a poor moisture seal. All straight oils are. Tung has this great rep for being waterproof but it tends to be exaggerated, and when used straight as it is normally applied these days it provides little meaningful protection. If you want to see the plywood a far better choice would be a marine-grade varnish, but be prepared for some sticker shock! I should also mention that it will impart a &lt;em&gt;significant&lt;/em&gt; yellow cast to the wood, which some people like and others hate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paint may or may not be waterproof. Some paints are, automotive coatings for example are very clearly made to be completely waterproof, others are specifically made to be &quot;breathable&quot; or &quot;micro-porous&quot; and this means water does get through them&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. Paint could be a good choice here but you have to pick carefully — assuming the cover is made from a good-quality exterior ply you want to use a breathable paint (which will probably be waterbased), not something like a traditional oil-based enamel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Even solid woods that are naturally resistant to rot begin to look weathered once the finish they are coated with begins to break down from light and moisture exposure, which might take as little as 1-3 years depending on conditions. In the case of something not naturally resistant to water such as interior plywood, the same failure wouldn't just lead to greying/silvering it will begin to bubble and peel apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; The idea being that it can afterwards escape rather than becoming trapped underneath, leading to paint bubbles or flaking and ultimately to the wood beginning to rot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-04-17T07:02:55.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7383" CreationDate="2019-04-17T15:15:37.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the UK and Canada, at least, so-called denatured alcohol is usually sold as &quot;methylated spirits&quot;. The idea is that it is pretty much ethyl alcohol with some amounts of methyl alocohol and other additives (i.e., stuff like denatonium benzoate) so people don't drink it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the UK it is also often dyed a nice shade of Kool-Aid purple, which I'm told doesn't affect shellac colour or function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't actually know anything about dissolving shellac, but if all you need is &quot;denatured alcohol&quot; then as other answers have suggested then you can use almost any low water content ethyl alcohol or ethyl-methyl alcohol mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-04-18T19:01:00.277" LastActivityDate="2019-04-18T19:01:00.277" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8474" CreationDate="2019-04-17T23:47:30.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Grizzly tablesaw with the same fence type. I find that when I adjust the fence it is not necessarily square when I move it to the desired dimension. I have to tighten the fence in place to get a fully accurate parallel setting for the fence and blade. Once I have set and unset the fence I can adjust it small amounts without appreciable changes in the angle. Could this be what you are experiencing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2019-04-17T23:47:30.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8501" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-18T10:15:41.940" Score="5" ViewCount="427" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recall reading that shellac is supposed to be a &quot;universal&quot; binder which can be used as an intermediate layer between otherwise incompatible layers of finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say, for instance, you are refinishing furniture but you're not sure of the original finish. So the theory goes that you could put on a layer of shellac, and then use whatever alternative finish you want on top of that. (I'm obviously glossing over details here.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems almost too good to be true. &lt;strong&gt;Is this a generally accurate attribute of shellac? What are its limitations?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am aware that some paint primers are shellac-based, which lends some credibility to the idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="763" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-04-20T06:20:37.617" LastActivityDate="2019-05-21T13:42:14.643" Title="Is shellac really a &quot;universal binder&quot;?" Tags="|refinishing|shellac|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8502" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8505" CreationDate="2019-04-18T18:44:34.887" Score="3" ViewCount="112" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ordered a side table from a reputable manufacturer. The table was supposed to look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1pHbq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1pHbq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Expected side table&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when I received the table, it looked like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/13xvh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/13xvh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Actual side table&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The white on the side table that I received is way too dominant and makes the table, in my opinion, off-putting. The person who sold this to me is saying that the white comes from cerusing and will vary based on wood grain, but I find it hard to believe that there wasn't some measure of bad workmanship involved. Is it possible that the stain underneath the cerusing was baddly applied / sealed in a way that made the white penetrate more deeply? Here is a closer look at the finish on my table:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NmdKl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NmdKl.png&quot; alt=&quot;A closer look at the finish&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3733" LastEditorUserId="3733" LastEditDate="2019-04-19T05:26:11.550" LastActivityDate="2019-04-19T05:26:11.550" Title="Is this a bad cerusing job?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="388" CreationDate="2019-04-18T19:10:23.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For more strength, a box joint or finger joint might be good:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AuUYl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AuUYl.png&quot; alt=&quot;Hand cut finger joint&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  (Image from &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworkjunkie.com/how-to-make-quality-hand-cut-finger-joints&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://woodworkjunkie.com/how-to-make-quality-hand-cut-finger-joints&lt;/a&gt; )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on skill and how much work you want to do, you can vary the thickness and number of the fingers to get more glue area and a stronger joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6332" LastEditorUserId="6332" LastEditDate="2019-04-18T20:42:06.870" LastActivityDate="2019-04-18T20:42:06.870" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8489" CreationDate="2019-04-18T20:57:51.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Welcome Ethan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where splits are linear, I would consider a butterfly or other brace, but when the split is around circular grain, I'm sure it's usable.  Worth a try, I suppose.  A &quot;butterfly&quot; is a separate piece of wood that crosses the split, glued into a slot you've chiseled into the host.  It is an advanced technique, I would say, but if you're up to it, they do lend a certain beauty in my eye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, I would consider one of three epoxy based fills: clear, wood dust as you suggest, or if you're brave, some color contrast.  In turned products, many will mix epoxy with metal dust, color such as the primaries red, blue, yellow.  Regardless, most epoxies (do your homework) will not only adhere to the wood, but flex a bit with the change in humidity.  I have some clear patches in bowls that have been amazing at following the movement in the wood.  It was just the 5 min two part you can get at your local big box lumber store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastActivityDate="2019-04-18T20:57:51.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8502" CreationDate="2019-04-18T21:59:12.870" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A finish technique like this is expected to have a high degree of variation based on any number of factors, including pore size, grain pattern, ring spacing (i.e. growth speed of the tree), etc.  I don't think you can really fault the manufacturer for this type of inconsistency.  It doesn't look like there's anything wrong with this finish per se.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Honestly, though, to me this looks more like a difference in the lighting or photographic settings than a difference in the finish.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all you want to do is make the white less vibrant I'd try a wash coat of shellac with a darker aniline dye in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2019-04-18T22:08:45.703" LastActivityDate="2019-04-18T22:08:45.703" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3990" CreationDate="2019-04-19T17:31:59.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Between Black Oxide and Titanium coatings, bits with a Titanium based coat will generally fare better when drilling through soft steels and other metals (~A36 hardness). The greatest contributing factor, however, is the base material used to make the bit, and how it was formed (forged vs. ground). A soft, ground bit will not fare as well with the same coating as a harder, forged bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strictly between same material bits, those with Ti coats will outlast those with Black Oxide in denser materials. This is due to Ti bits having greater surface hardness, which allows the structure to hold up against the longer duration drill times needed to bore the denser materials. Even with the increased ‘lubricity’ (or reduction of friction due to surface texture) Black Oxide bits boring in metals are slowed; such that friction resilience can not compensate for lack of competitive surface hardness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL;DR: Friction wears soft bit surfaces faster. Titanium coated bits generally have greater hardness, and thus last longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6336" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-07-18T11:59:44.973" LastActivityDate="2020-07-18T11:59:44.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3990" CreationDate="2019-04-19T20:06:19.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For wood working it makes no difference at all. Titanium coating is an exceptionally thin layer of titanium nitride on HSS or other steel ; produces a gold color. Claimed to be an advantage cutting high strength steels (not wood). black oxide is the normal oxides that are on HSS ( high speed steels ) when tempered at the usual tempering temperatures of 950 to 1100 F. Again adding a very thin hard layer , and saving the manufacturer the cost of removing it.If a bit is ever resharpened these coating are gone. Searching the internet , I find &quot;black oxide&quot; is more of a decorative finish with very marginal corrosion protection ( my evaluation as a corrosion professional).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3966" LastEditorUserId="3966" LastEditDate="2019-04-20T00:32:56.180" LastActivityDate="2019-04-20T00:32:56.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8501" CreationDate="2019-04-20T06:46:34.863" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Binder isn't a good word here as in coatings that means the stuff that bonds pigment particles together in paints, e.g. linseed oil in simple oil paints, acrylic/vinyl/styrene suspension in wall paints (US: latex paint, UK: emulsion paints).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When shellac is used in between finishes to help with adhesion or ensure compatibility it's sometimes referred to as a bridge but perhaps most commonly as an &lt;em&gt;intermediate coat&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;intermediate finish&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say, for instance, you are refinishing furniture but you're not sure of the original finish. So the theory goes that you could put on a layer of shellac, and then use whatever alternative finish you want on top of that. (I'm obviously glossing over details here.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a generally accurate attribute of shellac?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, yes. There's a phrase you'll fairly frequently come across in finishing circles, &amp;quot;shellac sticks to everything and everything sticks to shellac&amp;quot; which basically covers exactly what you're asking about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this is a slight exaggeration it does point to shellac's usefulness in this area and it is widely, and justifiably, relied upon for this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are its limitations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I touch on in a Comment above you can't expect a comprehensive answer to this as it's too broad a subject, possibly requiring a small section or a brief chapter in a book on finishing if the writer was trying to be thorough. But to give you some idea, relating to two fairly common finishing issues faced by woodworkers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shellac can't bond to a non-drying oil, e.g. mineral oil/liquid paraffin/baby oil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it won't bond to waxes (basically, only wax sticks to wax)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I say it can't bond above it should be understood to mean &lt;em&gt;bond well&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As covered at the start shellac is famous for being extremely good at clinging to disparate materials, it'll even bond reasonably well to the slick surface of glass. But in both cases above using shellac is no substitute for thorough cleaning of the existing surface with paint thinner or spirits. However, after this cleaning it may still be advisable to use shellac to help deal with any remaining traces of the two contaminants, and over these the shellac will bond reliably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2019-04-20T06:46:34.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="739" CreationDate="2019-04-20T09:51:19.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are doing a large area you might consider a popular method used to apply water-based polyurethane to wood floors - which is to use a &quot;T-bar&quot; applicator that has a thin foam or fleece-like cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The applicator is not intended to absorb much material and again release it the way a brush does. Instead it quickly reaches saturation and then just pushes the liquid around on a flat surface. This allows for a very smooth and quick application. Apparently the finish also comes out very even I guess due to its own viscosity and the minimal weight applied to the tool; you apply no down-pressure at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt this could be applied to a small project but if you were doing say a tabletop it might work very well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a caution, it could be that a method intended for a floor would leave some imperfections you wouldn't notice on a floor, but that nonetheless could be visible on something closer to the eye. But the floor I did with this method didn't appear to have any flaws related to the finish that I could see even when I looked closely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="763" LastActivityDate="2019-04-20T09:51:19.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8511" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-22T00:44:46.677" Score="2" ViewCount="911" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have timber from pallets without any stamps. From my research, un-stamped pallets may be for domestic use and, therefore, are not treated in any way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said the timber has some granular whiteness in places. It is almost like salt in texture with occasional granules on the surface. There is no odour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image shows the whiteness on the right mostly. Is this methyl bromide?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately my question is one of safety. Should I use this timber for outdoor furniture and dog houses?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hEJ0N.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hEJ0N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6342" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-04-24T10:17:44.537" LastActivityDate="2019-04-24T10:17:44.537" Title="What does methyl bromide look like on timber?" Tags="|safety|outdoor|pallet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8511" CreationDate="2019-04-22T14:31:52.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Second-hand pallet timber should not be used for anything except pallets or industrial use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is two-fold: you don't know how the pallet was originally treated, nor what the pallet experienced during use. It could have been dragged through toxic chemicals or had contaminated contents placed on it for transport.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If safety is really your concern don't use pallets for anything with close proximity to humans, animals, or your food supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3759" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-04-24T10:17:01.100" LastActivityDate="2019-04-24T10:17:01.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8513" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-23T02:22:43.213" Score="1" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a coffee table out of a live edge walnut slab. It's about 5'x30&quot;x1.125&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the legs I've made some blue-stain ponderosa blocks, 18&quot;x15&quot;x2.25&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions on how to join the legs to the table.  I was about to cut tenons on the legs.  But given the thickness of the top, I'm not sure the length I can achieve - maybe 1/2&quot; - will be worthwhile.  But it would increase the glued surface area significantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There will be an arched piece of steel tying things together on each side as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideas?&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i5pbH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;slab and leg&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2019-04-23T02:22:43.213" Title="Joinery Suggestions" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8514" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8519" CreationDate="2019-04-23T13:30:22.407" Score="6" ViewCount="2281" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the purpose of the side knob (circled in orange) on a hand or &amp;quot;eggbeater&amp;quot; drill? I can't remember ever using this handle for anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm considering cutting off the side knob so that the drill will fit better in my tool chest. Would this lead to any problems or loss of functionality?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TKN5U.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TKN5U.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hand or &amp;quot;eggbeater&amp;quot; drill&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6349" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2019-04-24T00:10:42.607" Title="What is the purpose of the side handle on a hand (&quot;eggbeater&quot;) drill?" Tags="|hand-tools|drill|tool-modification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8514" CreationDate="2019-04-23T15:08:34.377" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my younger days, I had only this type of drill with which to bore holes. It was often necessary to place the in-line grip on my chest or belt to apply pressure. A board or similar panel provided some dispersal of force against the human body. The side handle served to stabilize the drill and to prevent rotation in an undesirable manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Addendum: something popped into my alleged mind during the day. The drill I would have used might have had a shoe. This image shows this feature, making the determination that much easier. Image courtesy of Shutterstock:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WOjOM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WOjOM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hand crank drill with shoe&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastEditorUserId="3985" LastEditDate="2019-04-23T21:00:16.797" LastActivityDate="2019-04-23T21:00:16.797" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8489" CreationDate="2019-04-23T17:56:43.870" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another word for the butterfly joint is a &lt;em&gt;Dutchman&lt;/em&gt;. Looking this up may give you more examples of how to use it. Here you are creating bigger hole to match a small piece of wood that is a size of your choice. An elegant solution all around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6351" LastActivityDate="2019-04-23T17:56:43.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8517" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-23T22:35:21.103" Score="3" ViewCount="996" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a gate from 2x2 material.  I want to build-in a half-lap grid. I came up with a jig to use with my router that involves laying the 2x2 side by side in a box 1 1/2&quot; deep  then attaching at 90 degrees, a series of 1 1/2&quot; template pieces with a 1 1/2&quot; space between each template piece.  As you can see in the photo, I'm able to get results but not consistently enough for my needs.  I would like to do this on the table saw with some sort of jig similar to a finger joint jig but would need to make two cuts per crosscut.  An inch and a half dado set would be perfect but not an option. Maybe using such thick material makes a jig impossible.  Any input would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p9KJK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p9KJK.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6354" LastActivityDate="2020-06-14T23:03:34.430" Title="Multiple Half-lap Jig for Grid Work" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8517" CreationDate="2019-04-23T23:29:44.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So to start by clarifying the issue...if you have a normal finger-joint jig with a stop block the same size as your dado stack there is no way to reference the first cut on each board.  Since the stock is wider than the dado stack you'd need two passes, one for the &quot;leading&quot; edge of the half-lap and one for the &quot;trailing&quot; edge.  Once the first dado is made on each board you can make the next dado by aligning the stop block on the two sides of the previous dado.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the solution will be to have a second, movable reference block whose width is the difference between your stock width and your dado stack width.  You'll then make your first cut with the new block set against the jig's stop and the end of the work piece against the new block. &#xA; Then your second cut with will be with the end of the work piece against the jig's stop.  (Note that for this use of the jig the jig's stop should be the stock width plus the new block's width away from the blade.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, say you've got a 3/4&quot; dado stack and your stock is 1&quot; wide.  You'll need a stop block 1/4&quot; wide.  Your first cut (with the new block) will be from 1&quot; to 1 3/4&quot; from the end of the work piece, and the second cut (without the new block) will be from 1 1/4&quot; to 2&quot; from the end of the work piece.  (I'm not using your exact dimensions because I think this makes it clearer what is happening...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2019-04-23T23:29:44.267" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8514" CreationDate="2019-04-24T00:10:42.607" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;A&quot; reason is that a drill may not spin its bit nicely and freely once in a material. If the bit &quot;catches&quot; (does not spin nicely and freely), thee entire apparatus will then be the focus of the torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whichever of the two, the bit, or the entire-(not itself confronting the material's resistance like the bit does)-apparatus will tend to take the action of the torque and the not-the-bit components face only the resistance to movement that air provides, in addition to any resistance provided by any hold one has on the apparatus. In short:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bit stops, the entire rest of it wants to begin moving, and more so as one tries harder to make the bit move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless one makes it harder for the apparatus to move, the bit will not begin moving and one is not really achieving the assumed goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One's hold on the operating handle is part of that and any resistance pressing against the &quot;shoe&quot; (shown in fred_dot_u's picture), is helpful. However, the only direct action resisting the apparatus spinning so far is resistance through the operating handle and the torque and force one places there stands a very good chance of breaking the operating mechanism, or at least wearing it much faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hence the handle shown. Gripping it only risks snapping it off, not ruining the expensive part of the mechanism. Force applied holding it in place actively resists the tendency of the apparatus to spin itself and not the drill bit. This allows one to force the bit to be the place of least resistance to movement without lessening the pressure &quot;into&quot; the bit's action (for instance, the force applied to the shoe). That means the bit can be kept from simply spinning without accomplishing much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There would always be an ability to do that by lessening &quot;inward&quot; force, but the range of such available would much less and therefore the success much iffier, than by using the asked about handle. Using it allows a much greater operating range leading to the ability to have much more finesse in those situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of courrse, most drilling done with it would not reach these points and one would only need use the handle now and then. Perhaps even ever depending on needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(By the way, perhaps see if it might simply be removable by design, or if a more careful removal might allow you to re-attach it when needed. Or if not &quot;this-or-not-this-there-is-no-other&quot;, you might hack it off and use a power drill for the few times you would have made use of it. Also if value to another might be of interest someday, &quot;in-tact&quot; tickles more money out of people than &quot;at-tacked&quot;...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6355" LastActivityDate="2019-04-24T00:10:42.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2406" CreationDate="2019-04-24T03:08:27.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a hand held circular saw with a guide to cut the straight portions then a jig saw to cut the radius corners, being careful not to run the circular saw ti to the curves. It could all be done with a jig saw and a guide rail for the straight edges, but it would take longer and be more difficult to achieve straight lines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2019-04-24T03:08:27.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9519" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-24T09:30:22.357" Score="1" ViewCount="176" Body="&lt;p&gt;My delta sander bosch pda 180 doesn't move. I opened it and I think i can group every part into two big groups: the one with the motor and the one with the sanding pad. I took out the part with the sanding pad and left inside the motor, i plugged it in and it spins. Then I put back the other part, closed everything and plugged it in and the sanding pad moves very little or not at all, the motor makes a burnt smell. I’ve checked all the bearings I can see and they are spinning, brushes seem ok too. Can you help me to repair it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The motor seems to be good and it spins. When i try to sand something the tool doesn't sand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7357" LastActivityDate="2019-04-24T09:30:22.357" Title="Why my pda 180 bosch sander doesn't move?" Tags="|tool-repair|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9521" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-24T17:00:09.967" Score="5" ViewCount="235" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of years ago, we purchased a beautiful teak outdoor table. I sealed it with Semco sealer (recommended by the store for teak) a month after we bought it. To protect our investment, we also had a custom cover made for the table to protect it from rain and sun. Unfortunately, we got a lot of rain recently and when we took off the cover, the teak was covered with mildew spots. The water got through the cover and was trapped inside. I first tried mild bleach to remove the spots. That didn't take all of them out, so I tried a stronger commercial product. This didn't work either and just left the table looking faded and splotchy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm thinking I should just refinish the surface. I've done some reading on this, and I'm thinking I'll start with 120, then 220, then seal with Semco. Is there anything I should watch out for? How deep to these mildew spots go? Should I use an orbital or straight sander? I'm hoping I won't have to strip off too much of the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice appreciated! Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dk97M.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dk97M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;photo showing mildew damage&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JqeKG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JqeKG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;close up of mildew&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PVTsu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PVTsu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;after sanding&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AyVp3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AyVp3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;end result. much better!&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7359" LastEditorUserId="7359" LastEditDate="2019-07-05T03:45:17.390" LastActivityDate="2019-08-04T04:03:50.357" Title="Refinishing teak patio table" Tags="|refinishing|outdoor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6204" CreationDate="2019-04-24T19:04:20.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;I counted on the glue holding them in place&quot;. Oh my. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, welcome to the world of real woodworking - a land of infinite reward and heartbreak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've just run across a pretty fundamental truth - you cannot fight wood movement in large pieces. If you successfully immobilize a piece of wood that really wants to move, in the long run it will tear itself apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, you might (might! I say) try the following. Figure some way to remove the tabletop. A super-thin saw such as a flush-cut saw might possibly fit between the top and the frame. Redrill your dowel holes. Now reassemble, but this time put spacers  around the dowels, each one being about half the thickness of the gap you show. Even better, trim the spacers so that the bottom of the tabletop rests snugly against all four spacers when no glue is applied. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now glue. Notice that the clamping pressure does not distort the wood, it just applies force to provide clamping between the tabletop and the frame/spacers, and be forewarned that any glue joint between the end-grain of the side supports and the long grain of the spacers will be very weak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, the dowel joints are not under strain. Although the tabletop will want to move with changes in relative humidity, at least you won't have contact at some intermediate point on the frame which will apply leverage to the dowels. However, the dowels will have a lot of possible shear force on them and they may fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;But,&quot; you might say, &quot;the top is not flat. I want it to be flat.&quot; It's a little late for that, at least for thick solid wood. Oh, you can do it, with bolts replacing your dowels and inset nuts in the side supports, but then you'll need to inset the bolt heads and cover up with plugs. Probably not the look you're going for. And in the long run that too can fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="463" LastActivityDate="2019-04-24T19:04:20.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="929" CreationDate="2019-04-24T20:11:26.460" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spalting can be achieved by storing hydrated lumber or green wood conditions that allow mushroom spores or mushroom mycelium to contact wood that has a sufficient moisture level to allow growth. However, in the last two decades, many scientific papers on this topic have been published, indicating an increasing understanding of the conditions necessary to create spalted wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once a poorly understand natural process, today there are companies producing fungi-based spalting kits for the home wood worker to induce spalting as a controlled process. Applying pure fungal isolates instead of storing wood in the presence of spores and picked mushrooms opens new possibilities for controlled spalting applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To begin proper induced spalting, you must start with green wood or wood that has been rehydrated to 30% or higher moisture content. Moisture is critical for allowing the fungi to run their course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two major types of desirable spalting effects that may occur in wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Color Spalting occurs due to a range of fungi that have a tendency to create pigment in wood, creating and pushing pigment into the wood, starting at the leading edge of the fungi mycelium. This type of spalting occurs without the need for antagonism from other fungi species. Known color spalting fungi currently include several scytalidium and  chlorociboria species.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The scytalidium species do not form mushrooms and are only obtained by coaxing the fungi out of the wood using laboratory clone techniques.  Color range: pink/red with interactions that lead to blue, purple, yellow, other colors possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The chlorociboria species are extremely slow-growing. This fungus produces the blue elf cup fungus. Blue-green stains are associated with this species.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Color spalting is also seen with the Ophiostoma family of fungi that are carried by the pine beetle, creating blue-gray colorations in wood. Spore-producing fungus bodies are difficult to identify and do not resemble mushrooms. &#xA;Due to the potential for damage from environmental release, the Ophiostoma family of fungi is tightly regulated by the USDA and are not commonly selected for spalting purposes. The pine beetle and the group of fungi that it spreads naturally have proven capable of destroying the potential value of forest products, this devastation also shows the importance of careful regulation of the movement and sale of spalting fungi. Even the fungus alone without the presence of the beetle has the potential to cause tree disease which may create preconditions enabling insect infestation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per Wikipedia:&#xA;&quot;The beetles introduce blue stain fungus into the sapwood that prevents the tree from repelling and killing the attacking beetles with tree pitch flow. The fungus also blocks water and nutrient transport within the tree.&quot;&#xA;(Source &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mountain_pine_beetle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mountain_pine_beetle&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Zone Line Spalting occurs due to what is essentially a war inside the wood. The spalting effects that create zone lines are typically battle scars from a white rot fungus defending its food source from competing fungi. Zone line fungi are found far more easily in a wild setting, because they produce identifiable mushroom bodies. While colors may also form as a response to antagonism with other fungi (notably in trichaptum biforme or monascus ruber) the coloration will typically follow the patterning of zone lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brown rot fungi are generally not favored species choices for inducing spalted wood effects. Brown rot colonization typically results in a long-term result of cubical cracking patterns, appearing across the wood grain. However, a notable exception is seen in brown oak. Brown oak is caused via colonization from the brown rot fungus Fistulina hepatica, which produces the beefsteak mushroom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a commonly-cited &quot;traditional technique&quot; for creating spalted wood that typically involves applying various &quot;stimulants&quot; for the fungi, including beer, urine, coffee, and other substances. However, several recent researchers including Dr. Sara Robinson from Oregon State University have largely debunked the methods behind this oral tradition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Careful observation and repetition of the spalting process has revealed to spalting researchers that the more easily-accessible nutritional sources there are outside of the wood, the less likely it is for the fungi to make the leap from colonizing the external nutrients to begin colonizing the lower-nutrition wood instead. The fungi are quite content to drink your beer while basking lazily in the slime layer created on the surface of your wood by the addition of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is desired for spalting are fungi that are incentivized to leap off of your inoculant media and attack the wood itself. Mushroom spores and mycelium from spalting fungi without an alternative desirable food source will readily colonize wood under compatible conditions. Wood colonization can also be achieved by the use of a colonized solid agar media with a low nutritive content. No beer is used, although a malt extract is commonly used in the creation of these spalting starters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are links to published research on induced spalting techniques:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inducing zone lines and melanin formation for decorative purposes on North American western wood species, with emphasis on conifers, Robinson, Weber, &amp;amp; Hinsch 2014&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1179/2042645314Y.0000000065&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1179/2042645314Y.0000000065&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The influence of moisture content variation on fungal pigment formation in spalted wood, Tudor, Robinson, Cooper 2012&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23245292&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23245292&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feasibility of using red pigment producing fungi to stain wood for decorative applications, Robinson, Tudor, &amp;amp; Cooper 2011&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.researchgate.net/publication/236342494_Feasibility_of_using_red_pigment_producing_fungi_to_stain_wood_for_decorative_applications&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.researchgate.net/publication/236342494_Feasibility_of_using_red_pigment_producing_fungi_to_stain_wood_for_decorative_applications&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood Species and Culture Age Affect Zone Line Production of Xylaria polymorpha, Robinson &amp;amp; Laks 2010&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://benthamopen.com/contents/pdf/TOMYCJ/TOMYCJ-4-18.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://benthamopen.com/contents/pdf/TOMYCJ/TOMYCJ-4-18.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Methods of inoculating Acer spp., Populus tremuloides, and Fagus grandifolia logs for commercial spalting applications, Robinson, Tudor, Hipson, Snider, Ng, Korshikov, Cooper 2012&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s10086-013-1335-5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s10086-013-1335-5&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7358" LastEditorUserId="7358" LastEditDate="2019-04-26T13:41:42.670" LastActivityDate="2019-04-26T13:41:42.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9525" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9530" CreationDate="2019-04-24T20:56:09.490" Score="1" ViewCount="759" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a beginner who wants to be safe here! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to cut multiple boards (let's say 10&quot; x 16&quot;) with a table saw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first cut was going to make a 16&quot; rip cut on my 4 foot plywood and then cross cut it to 10&quot; pieces. Now it is evident I could use a sled, or the miter gage for that cut. The longer length is clearly too long to use the fence alone and risk kickback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's now assume that I would like to rip/cross cut those 10&quot; x 16&quot; into roughly 10&quot; x 8&quot; boards. Could I use my fence only? Will it risk kickback? Since it is almost square, is there some kind of safety rule of thumb regarding the risk or absence of risk? I know the 10&quot; edge can be firmly pressed against the fence and it will not rotate, but is it a bad practice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What about if my previous board was 10&quot; x 24&quot; and I rip 8 inch or even 16 inch boards? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7361" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-04-25T07:48:58.980" LastActivityDate="2019-04-25T20:39:14.280" Title="Table saw cross cut on panel" Tags="|table-saw|safety|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9526" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9527" CreationDate="2019-04-25T14:47:52.897" Score="3" ViewCount="483" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently working on building a desk from a sheet of Beech hardwood (27mm thick) with Hairpin Legs (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thehairpinlegcompany.co.uk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thehairpinlegcompany.co.uk&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of using threaded wood inserts to allow the legs to come off easier without damaging the wood, I've thought about M5 (10mm length) but I'm unsure if these would be suitable for hardwood as most reviews I see mention &quot;for softwood&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does any one have any experience with this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7363" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-04-25T16:26:31.440" LastActivityDate="2019-04-26T12:54:08.577" Title="Threaded wood insert for Beech Hardwood" Tags="|hardwood|fasteners|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9526" CreationDate="2019-04-25T16:30:20.487" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Threads directly formed in hardwood can be surprisingly strong and last surprisingly well&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, either if they're cut/tapped or 'forced in' by drilling an appropriate size of hole&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; and literally screwing the screw or bolt in by force. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opinions are divided about which method is stronger, and I suspect it actually depends on the wood species (fine-grained or coarse-grained) more than there being one best method. But in either case you can reinforce the threading if desired by dribbling in some glue. Superglue/CA is commonly employed for this today, but epoxy would work well too (likely better). If you want to reinsert the screw or bolt into the hole before the glue has set be sure to thoroughly grease or wax it beforehand!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So given how often table legs might need to be removed I'm sure you can get away without the threaded inserts. But use them if you want the peace of mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm unsure if these would be suitable for hardwood as most reviews I see mention &quot;for softwood&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are different types of threaded insert and even if using one manufactured specifically for use in softwood this is in relation to screwing them directly into the wood at the stated pilot hole size, i.e. used 'dry' in a pilot hole sized for softwood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But note that for hardwoods the pilot should ideally be a different diameter than for softwoods, just as for any screw going into wood. Additionally any threaded insert can be epoxied in place for added strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If using epoxy, before inserting for the last time thoroughly degrease the outside of the insert with alcohol, acetone or lacquer thinner. See more on epoxying inserts in place here on Wood Magazine's site, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/fasteners/tips-on-using-threaded-inserts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tips for using threaded inserts&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also find this previous Question of help: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2209/how-can-i-ensure-my-threaded-inserts-go-in-straight&quot;&gt;How can I ensure my threaded inserts go in straight?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; This is even when used for tools and jigs, where the screw would be withdrawn and tightened many times more frequently than when used for attaching legs to a table. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Ideally not exactly the same size as if you were tapping. But many of us don't have a huge range of incrementally sized bits to pick from so it's often the case that you have to use what you've got. Tip: where bits in 0.5mm increments are not easily found, or are too expensive, it can be useful to get a set of Imperial bits as most are in between millimetre sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-04-26T12:54:08.577" LastActivityDate="2019-04-26T12:54:08.577" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9528" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-25T18:21:52.290" Score="3" ViewCount="1919" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for the name or even a specific bit recommendation that could cut a french cleat angle (45 angle) into a piece of wood. Much like a dovetail bit but at a 45 degree. Do these bits even exist? See photo below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hQhoA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hQhoA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something that looks like this but instead of 2 separate pieces laminated together, I would like to machine it into a single piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6035" LastActivityDate="2019-04-29T16:43:38.097" Title="CNC router bit to cut french cleat?" Tags="|router|router-bit|cnc|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9528" CreationDate="2019-04-25T18:54:06.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want a 45 degree inverted chamfer bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many of these will have a bearing on the bottom - this will be removable, but there might still be a nub that keeps it from cutting flush.  Maybe you could grind it off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0KF2D.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0KF2D.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;inverted chamfer bit&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2019-04-25T18:54:06.997" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9525" CreationDate="2019-04-25T20:39:14.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you are cutting plywood on the tablesaw, the risk of kickback is proportional to the &lt;code&gt;width/length&lt;/code&gt;. Width is the distance from the fence to the blade and length is the length of the work-piece that rides against the fence. I am comfortable cutting anything where the width is less than the length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Minimize the risk of kickback when breaking down sheet goods. Structure your cuts so that you cut the short end of the rectangle first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5389" LastActivityDate="2019-04-25T20:39:14.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3284" CreationDate="2019-04-25T21:37:14.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are also 1.5&quot; fitting and 1.25&quot; fittings (diameter where the male and female parts actually touch).  1.25&quot; has been around for a long time, and is used on many different older vacuums.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.25&quot; and 2.5&quot; are their larger cousins.  If you buy an extension hose, often it will come with adapters for both sizes.  Again, the 2.25&quot; is the outer diameter of the male fitting where it inserts into the female hole of the same size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer to buy simple tapered fittings, rather than the newer lock type fittings, as they work with my box of older extra parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One ref is here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.shopvac.com/us/en/accessory-guide&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.shopvac.com/us/en/accessory-guide&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7364" LastActivityDate="2019-04-25T21:37:14.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9532" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-26T13:32:55.220" Score="0" ViewCount="929" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a cribbage game board and need assistance finding the best way to create or find the peg slot metal slider or cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been looking for the metal slides to cover the peg board slot on cherry board with no luck.  Anyone know where can I find those or ideas for a similar sort of cover?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7367" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2019-12-30T22:00:13.703" LastActivityDate="2019-12-30T22:00:13.703" Title="Cribbage Peg Slot Metal Slider/Cover?" Tags="|materials|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9532" CreationDate="2019-04-26T14:20:29.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Have been looking for the metal slides to cover the peg board slot on the board I made out of cherry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cribbage boards come in a huge variety of styles (consider &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cribbagesupply.com/3dlabacrbo.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this large-mouth bass board&lt;/a&gt;), and I don't recall seeing two that had the exact same peg storage covers, so I think you'll have a hard time sourcing those covers as a separate part. Since you probably just need one or two, I think your best bet is to make your own. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mcmaster.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;McMaster-Carr&lt;/a&gt; is a good source for all sorts of metal stock, but look around your house or your local big box store for candidates: the blade of an old butter knife or spatula might make good raw material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2019-04-26T14:20:29.523" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9534" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-27T13:45:41.223" Score="1" ViewCount="318" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can cedar be used for making wooden puzzles and blocks for children?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7375" LastActivityDate="2019-04-27T13:45:41.223" Title="What about using cedar for toy puzzles and blocks?" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9535" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9582" CreationDate="2019-04-28T02:16:23.077" Score="4" ViewCount="733" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm taking an online woodworking course (The Weekend Woodworker), and built a small patio table a few months ago. I made it out of select pine (kiln dried), spray painted it (~2 coats), and put in on my back deck. Being the first thing I've ever made, I was (and still am) pretty proud of my efforts! However, I noticed today that the top of the table is already cracking:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jM1rj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jM1rj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cracking on table top&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be causing this? The deck is south facing, and gets a ton of sunshine all day, so perhaps it's a UV thing? I also note that water sits on top of the table after it rains, as if the top boards are cupped a little (I did indeed sand the top). I try to dump the water off each time this happens, but I'd like to know what (if anything) I did wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5810" LastActivityDate="2023-11-30T09:32:37.673" Title="What can cause cracks in painted pine?" Tags="|finishing|technique|wood|wood-movement|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9536" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-28T14:04:43.483" Score="2" ViewCount="768" Body="&lt;p&gt;The smell of wood is causing my throat and nose to swell when I lay down at night, I had to move to another room. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I eliminate this odor, or at least mellow I out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7379" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-04-30T07:04:23.557" LastActivityDate="2019-09-27T09:01:45.300" Title="seem to be allergic to unfinished wood in the drawers of my new bedroom set" Tags="|finishing|toxicity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2019-10-01T17:46:47.697" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9536" CreationDate="2019-04-29T01:08:57.577" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A water born polyurethane would probably work good to seal the wood, I would think 2 coats. Or maybe shellac.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2019-04-29T01:08:57.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9539" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-29T13:19:34.990" Score="2" ViewCount="476" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically I have some standard metal tubing square legs which I want to affix to a table base. Hopefully the pics attached below show my idea but I am thinking of attaching a wood block on the underside of the metal leg using two metal bolts. Put two pieces of wood on either side of the leg forming part of the apron around it and then attach the metal legs to the apron using custom dowels similar to how it's done in this video &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/F-SxsnG7CLc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/F-SxsnG7CLc&lt;/a&gt; just without glueing it to the top. Alternatively I could just glue together rather than using the dowels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the table is attached to the apron using cleats the metal legs will be wedged between the table top and the apron to which it is joined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The table is a mix of Australian brushbox and spotted gum weighing around 100kg. Dimensions 2.4m X 1.2m X 320mm. The apron will be straight brushbox dimensions 2m X 800mm X 300mm. The metal legs are 730 mm X 700mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking for advice regarding strength, stability and whether there is a better way to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xTseZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;]&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tLV4X.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;]&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jrBst.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7381" LastEditorUserId="1646" LastEditDate="2019-04-30T12:34:05.183" LastActivityDate="2019-04-30T12:34:05.183" Title="Looking at attaching metal legs to a table top" Tags="|tabletop|strength|stability|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9528" CreationDate="2019-04-29T16:43:38.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Found these bits on Amazon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.ca/Degree-Straight-Shank-Dovetail-Cutter/dp/B01JUDP12E/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=dovetail+bit+45+degree&amp;amp;qid=1556519761&amp;amp;s=gateway&amp;amp;sr=8-7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.ca/Degree-Straight-Shank-Dovetail-Cutter/dp/B01JUDP12E/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=dovetail+bit+45+degree&amp;amp;qid=1556519761&amp;amp;s=gateway&amp;amp;sr=8-7&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Little bit odd with all the flutes but I think it'll do just fine at least in the short run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G96z3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G96z3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6035" LastActivityDate="2019-04-29T16:43:38.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9541" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-29T21:45:31.377" Score="2" ViewCount="553" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Bosch 4410 sliding miter saw. It has a small dust port that I've found to be woefully inadequate as the sole means of dust extraction. My shop also has a 5HP cyclone dust collection system that I'd like to put to use on the miter saw. I'd made up a 28&quot; x 44&quot; hood, of sorts, using a couple of window well covers that helped somewhat but takes up too much real estate in the shop. The sliding mechanism extends nearly 16&quot; behind the dust port, putting the hood too far away from the blade and dust port to get the job done effectively. The current thought is to build a smaller hood that attaches near the rear handle behind the motor using a 6&quot; flexible collection hose connected to the shop dust collector. I've seen some nice hoods folks have designed, but none for a saw with a long slide mechanism. Suggestions???  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hC1gG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hC1gG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bosch 4410 Miter Saw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7383" LastActivityDate="2019-04-29T21:45:31.377" Title="Dust collection for Bosch sliding miter saw" Tags="|dust-collection|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9543" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-30T21:43:17.887" Score="3" ViewCount="567" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve been planning to build a farm style table for our patio. If I join the top boards using pocket screws + titebond III and attach the top to the base using angle brackets with wide slots, will I be ok as far as expansion and buckling? Wife would rather not have gaps between the boards. I will be staining and applying a good amount of spar urethane to the top while the base will be painted. My wife wants bread board ends as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood will be top will be 5 - 2x8 framing timbers from local lumberyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the inspiration for the table - &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SckT4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SckT4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ana-white.com/woodworking-projects/farmhouse-table-updated-pocket-hole-plans?epik=dj0yJnU9cmNYNTF2T1p3RXdxVHhNSl8wX1NyM1B3VVRraTBuYUgmbj1PNS1YdkJJbTdUTnhSTXYyeXhCRU5BJm09MyZ0PUFBQUFBRnpJd09v&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.ana-white.com/woodworking-projects/farmhouse-table-updated-pocket-hole-plans?epik=dj0yJnU9cmNYNTF2T1p3RXdxVHhNSl8wX1NyM1B3VVRraTBuYUgmbj1PNS1YdkJJbTdUTnhSTXYyeXhCRU5BJm09MyZ0PUFBQUFBRnpJd09v&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7386" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2019-04-30T23:05:11.630" LastActivityDate="2019-05-10T12:41:26.127" Title="Will a tabletop bolted to slotted angle brackets have problems with wood movement?" Tags="|design|outdoor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9543" CreationDate="2019-04-30T21:51:45.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as the slots in your angle brackets are perpendicular to the grain of the top they should allow the top to expand and contract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2019-04-30T21:51:45.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9545" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9546" CreationDate="2019-04-30T22:08:47.550" Score="4" ViewCount="1007" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a bridge across a ditch in my nephews front yard. Shown here is an elevation of one of the four joists that will support 2 x 6 redwood treads, width of 5.5'. To achieve the curve, I will need to assemble the joists from 2 pieces that will need to be scabbed together in the center. The unsupported part of the span measures 11.5 feet, the vertical thickness of the majority of the span is 10&quot;, it measures about 8.5&quot; where it leaves the supporting pads at the ends. The wood to be used is pressure treated Doug Fir, structural grade. My intent is to scab these two pieces with a 4' long piece of 2 x 8 PT Fir, same as above. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ot0sm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ot0sm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I'm a long time builder but I'm a bit nervous on this one. I've not, in memory, seen similar. Think this is sound? If so, how best to secure the scabs? Many screws? Carriage bolts? Use iron versus the wood scabs? (I'd rather avoid that.) Wood-scab both sides of the interior joists? I guess my biggest concern is stress, or wear from use, on holes going through the joist halves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could run the design flat with a single piece but that would require steps on the ends and would not look nearly as nice in its intended location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;As per suggestion, I've lengthened and fattened the scabs.The left side shows bolts at 6&quot; centers, 4&quot; centers on the right. Comments?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vv5fp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vv5fp.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2762" LastEditorUserId="2762" LastEditDate="2019-05-01T15:38:24.227" LastActivityDate="2019-05-07T20:33:46.053" Title="Best way to scab joists for bridge" Tags="|strength|joints|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9545" CreationDate="2019-04-30T23:24:11.403" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like you, I have built a great deal, but I am not a structural engineer so my recommendations are more intuitive than definitive. I would recommend extending the length of the scabs as much as possible.  If you are creating the arches from 10' framing I would use the same for the scab and cut it to the curve.  I would apply fasteners 1' OC.  staggered top and bottom. Since it will be exposed to the elements for a long time I would use 3/8&quot; galvanized bolts rather than nails which would be more likely to rust through over time.  Drill the holes to 3/8&quot; diameter for a tight fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2019-04-30T23:24:11.403" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9547" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9548" CreationDate="2019-05-01T04:20:11.193" Score="7" ViewCount="7827" Body="&lt;p&gt;So still working on my live edge walnut table, and I think I may have screwed up the order of operations a bit.  The slab has some defects - cracks, small knots with voids, etc.  Didn't think to much of it - just part of working with this type of wood.  But now it occurs to me that I could do an epoxy fill.  Maybe clear, maybe with a metal powder fill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I've already put 3 coats of Tung oil on it.  So I'm not sure the epoxy is feasible at this point.  Will it stick?  Will the process of sanding it down flush damage the surrounding oil finish in a way that will be noticible in the end?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5/5 update&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, following Graphus's advice ... and adding a bit.  I scraped out several of the defects with a small pick.  Turns out there alot of punky stuff in some of the defects, and one knot came out entirely.  I followed up with a small ballnose rasp on a Dremel, and the the suggested drill.  In the end, there probably wasn't much oiled wood left in there except for the smallest cracks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mixed up the epoxy with alot of brass powder.  Mixed way to much material.  Applied with a bamboo skewer, applying the suggested heat gun.  I'll update again in a few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2kTAj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fm1sP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OYDKt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h0sx9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/78VnX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ofSob.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5/13 update&#xA;Cut down the epoxy with a rasp and block plane, then sanded flush wit a 1/4 sheet sander starting at 100 grit.  Worked it down to 220 with the power sander.  Hit the filled stuff with 600 grit, which brought it out a good bit.  I'm pretty happy with how it came out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IEJls.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NFfAL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rlW73.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit 2019-05-26&#xA;Thought I'd post a few of the finished piece - thanks for the help!&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A0AJV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A0AJV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iX6PH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iX6PH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kV4a0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kV4a0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2019-05-27T00:10:35.990" LastActivityDate="2019-05-27T00:10:35.990" Title="Filling cracks with epoxy after Tung oil" Tags="|finishing|epoxy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9547" CreationDate="2019-05-01T08:09:31.220" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I think I may have screwed up the order of operations a bit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But because you're using an oil finish it's not quite as bad as it seems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inside the cracks and other defects the epoxy won't stick as well as it would to bare wood, however once cured drying oils aren't oils any longer so the bond won't be as terrible as one might expect. Long wait for the oil to fully cure though — a month at least! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to bear in mind is that fills like this can often lock in due to the complex topography of the defect, so many fills couldn't be removed regardless. It just takes a little shelf or ledge in the defect for the epoxy to grab on to and the fill holds itself in very well&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Will the process of sanding it down flush damage the surrounding oil finish in a way that will be noticible in the end?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will damage it but shouldn't be noticeable in the end. One of the (few) great things about oil finishes is that they're very repairable, you can do spot repairs and they should blend in seamlessly (see more on this at bottom). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW when you do this sanding you'll have the opportunity to see just how shallow the penetration of oil is into long-grain surfaces. The &quot;deep penetration&quot; that finish companies like to brag about with oil finishes is only relative to other finishes which sit on the surface, it's not actually &lt;em&gt;deep&lt;/em&gt; at all!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The whole process&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There are other ways you could approach this but this is how I'd do it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wash out the inside of the defects with acetone or lacquer thinner to remove some of the 'dried' oil (Q-tips or small, stiff-bristled brushes are helpful here). You &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; have to be super-scrupulous about this, the more you can remove the better but don't drive yourself nuts if you see traces of oil remaining after the solvent has flashed off.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Gently scrape the surface of the defects with a sharp point to key it. If you've waited for the oil to cure and you want to skip the above step and go straight to this one go ahead, at the end of the day it may not make that much difference.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Just prior to applying the epoxy use a hairdryer, or more carefully a heat gun, to warm the area well. The higher temperature makes the epoxy flow out and penetrate better, ensuring it runs into every nook and cranny. Even viscous epoxy mixes thickened with filler will turn surprisingly runny the moment they touch hot wood (#oddlysatisfying). &lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; always do this when using epoxy if the wood is cool or cold if you want to ensure a good bond.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mix your epoxy and pour or dollop it in. Make sure to overfill! If needed use tape or other things to &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/8010/how-to-prevent-epoxy-from-running-out-of-wood-voids&quot;&gt;dam the surrounding area&lt;/a&gt; to keep the epoxy from dripping or flowing where you don't want it. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wait for the epoxy to completely cure&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; before working the surface flush. If you have quite a bit of excess and you want to remove the bulk of it before the epoxy has reached maximum hardness do so, but hold yourself back from trying to get it flush or you risk tearing it free from the wood at the edges. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I like to plane the bulk of epoxy excess off, usually using a block plane set for a fine cut although with a larger fill you'd want to use a smoothing plane. Once I'm flush with the wood I might scrape and then finish sand to fully blend the fill in. You'll get much better edges to your fills if you've been patient and waited for the epoxy to fully cure.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Start oiling again as normal. Concentrate on the bare areas of course but you'll probably end up oiling most of the surface again as you go even if you weren't intending to add further coats (which I would recommend actually, three isn't enough). Don't treat the epoxy fills any differently to the surrounding wood.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A little on the repairability of oil finishes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is the theory the textbooks all tell us, that you can repair oil finishes and this is one of their strengths. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice I've had to repair oil-finished wood numerous times, sometimes during the finishing process&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; and sometimes late damage to a piece long after the oil has fully cured. Regardless of whether the oil was fresh or cured, after only the first coat of fresh oil was applied the previously bare areas become virtually undetectable. After one or two further applications I couldn't find the damaged areas even knowing where to look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; In tricky situations (e.g. a flake taken off an edge) you can aid this process by providing &quot;locks&quot; for the epoxy. This could be as basic as scraping or carving in a small undercut or two, but many people just drill a few small holes at various angles. Obviously epoxy bonds very well to bare wood anyway, and normally you can rely on this bond to do all the work, but if you want the extra security it only takes a moment or two to do something along these lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; With 5-minute epoxy despite it getting 'hard' in just 20-30 minutes I wait at least a few hours and often longer. With 30-minute epoxy, I'd wait 5-6 hours at least, maybe overnight. Using any epoxy with a slower setting time it's advisable to wait a &lt;em&gt;minimum&lt;/em&gt; of 24 hours. Waiting longer never hurts, so if you get distracted or called away and a couple of days pass that's not a bad thing. Also remember that hardening and curing time is temperature dependent, so the cooler it is the more you want to err on the side of caution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; I've over-enthusiastically sanded through to bare wood near an edge or at a corner multiple times. Occasionally had to do a fill after the oil had already been applied just like you're asking about, and then had to plane/file/scrape/sand the fill flush which invariably removes &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; of the finish from the surrounding wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-05-01T15:52:40.433" LastActivityDate="2019-05-01T15:52:40.433" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9549" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-01T16:20:45.873" Score="1" ViewCount="383" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recognize that this may be more appropriate for DIY, but what I'm doing hies pretty closely to classic woodworking, so let's give it a try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read a few Q&amp;amp;A related to &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/q/7582/5572&quot;&gt;refinishing&lt;/a&gt; wooden &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/q/1354/5572&quot;&gt;storm doors&lt;/a&gt; but they either discuss timber choices or stains. Feel free to tell me about any I have missed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I have are two sort of antique wood storm doors that need some repair and updating, and I'm hoping the SE hivemind can help me move this project along before I &lt;em&gt;poison my child any further&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, right. It turns out that these two doors, which see a lot of element abuse here in SW Ontario, are conveniently covered in paint containing lead. The paint is in decent shape, but let's assume that the lead is sloughing off as we speak, and I'm loathe to spend one more windy summer letting these things blow heavy metals into the house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; the doors are made with fir, though a scratch test &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; indicate white oak. They have matching screen and mullioned glazing inserts that we swap out depending on the season. I'll have to refinish those as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to remove all the paint (which may be over c. 1920 varnish of some sort) and not just paint over it for a few reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm removing the mortice lock and handle and replacing it with a ball-catch and some newer hardware.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm going to repair and cleanup the hinge mortices and holes so I can rehang them with confidence.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My family has decided they want a &lt;strong&gt;bold&lt;/strong&gt; colour, and I want to do a good job sealing and painting these to make them pop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my idea is to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the doors from their frames and strip them of all hardware.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carefully strip off as much of the old finishes as I can; I'm ok with sweat equity here.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do the carpentry necessary to fixup the gouges, holes left by the unused mortice lock, scratch plates, and knobs (the knobs have to go because when I installed a new lockset on the front door I neglected to take into account that I didn't have the depth I needed and the lockset interferes with the screen door knobs) and generally repair the door to get it ready to hang. (How to best fill a big mortice hole in a door might be a follow-on question.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prepare the surface (either bare wood, or more likely, a surface ready for priming) as safely as possible. This means no or little sanding. I'm hoping to keep all the lead confined to splotches of removed paint that I can seal up in bags and dispose of safely and legally.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done a fair amount of refinishing in my time, so I have the &quot;get things down to a ready surface&quot; part in the bag, with the caveat being I'm treating the old finish like toxic waste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens next is my question. I've read about &quot;sealing&quot;, though I don't what that is in comparison to primer. I think I need several coats of good exterior paint on top of some number of coats of primer. Given a decent mostly bare wood surface, what is the recommendation for finishing so we get a nice looking finish that is also nice and safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-05-01T19:28:31.313" LastActivityDate="2019-11-25T03:01:45.207" Title="Refinishing an &quot;antique&quot; storm door" Tags="|paint|refinishing|door|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9550" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-02T00:16:08.553" Score="-3" ViewCount="289" Body="&lt;p&gt;I stained the top of this nightstand black. Clear coated it with a spray matte clear and it turned out like this. I used a 1000 grit sandpaper and gently sanded the top. It seemed to just make the blotches pop more so. What can or should I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7390" LastActivityDate="2019-05-07T12:40:53.967" Title="PLEASE HELP BLOTCHY STAIN JOB" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2022-06-13T20:13:12.403" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5873" CreationDate="2019-05-02T05:54:32.307" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Filling surface cracks on a hardwood tabletop or other flat surface:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After final dimensioning (usually by tracksaw) I use that slightly coarser dust and with gloved hand push a heavy pile of the dust back and forth across the joints. The dry heavier particles fill any voids and still look smooth and perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next I use a very diluted water to glue (75-25%) and a brush to pour on and brush back and forth again across joints letting the paint brush collect the glue mixture and loose sawdust. As you go back and forth across the joints this mixture will be squeegeed into any remaining voids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When finished use brush and lightly knock off the remaining dust and let dry for an hour under a fan. Sand with 320 grit paper and immediately apply a first varnish coating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7391" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-05-08T17:32:50.207" LastActivityDate="2019-05-08T17:32:50.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9552" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9565" CreationDate="2019-05-02T15:56:28.827" Score="2" ViewCount="3867" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the final coat (in this case third) of Danish Oil have to be wiped?  Or is it &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; OK to just let dry and then lightly sand/buff?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask because I am using the dark walnut version of the Watco product, which was applied very thinly, and currently have the exact color match I want, but if I wipe it down it will remove some of the solids and thereby lighten up the finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to not have to keep reapplying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5706" LastEditorUserId="5706" LastEditDate="2020-05-03T18:46:43.120" LastActivityDate="2020-05-03T18:46:43.120" Title="Does the final coat of a Danish Oil finish need to be wiped?" Tags="|finishing|tung-oil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9553" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-03T03:24:11.713" Score="6" ViewCount="19662" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a total newbie and just made a simple desktop. I finished it with Minwax polyurethane satin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The can says let dry after final coat for 24 hours, but from what I've read on this forum it sounds like oil-based finishes can take weeks to dry fully. Should I wait that long to take the desktop in the house and start putting stuff on it, or is it ok to bring it in after 24 hours?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7395" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-05-03T07:14:41.470" LastActivityDate="2019-06-02T08:01:56.547" Title="How long before polyurethane finish on desktop is dry?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9553" CreationDate="2019-05-03T07:31:45.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To start with please see previous Question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/884/what-is-the-difference-between-curing-and-drying&quot;&gt;What is the difference between &amp;quot;curing&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;drying&amp;quot;?&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dry to the touch — what you have now – is not cured, that takes weeks at least. The oft-repeated rule of thumb for a full cure in an oil-based finish is that it takes &quot;about a month&quot;, although this is obviously a generalisation it gives a good idea of how patient you have to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To a degree, finishes take as long as they take to dry because drying times are dependant on local conditions (temp, humidity and airflow) and the moisture content of the wood itself. People who live in temperate climates with higher humidity have to wait much longer than those living somewhere dry and warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, 24 hours is not nearly long enough to safely put an oil-based finish into service probably anywhere, including somewhere like Arizona or the Australian outback. At this stage it would still scuff easily and be prone to taking imprint marks, even fingerprinting is possible early on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Poly can be considered cured enough for light use (while still not being fully cured) when you can no longer smell any solvent odour with your nose pressed right against the surface. Expect this to take a few days to a week. Personally I wouldn't use something with varnish on it before this, but realities are what they are and if you must use a varnished surface before that time use coasters, placemats etc. to protect the unhardened finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would advise not putting anything particularly heavy on the desktop until after a full cure. This includes only moderately heavy items with a small footprint, or rubber feet, which concentrate the weight to small areas. And don't wipe the surface with a damp cloth unless absolutely necessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-05-03T07:31:45.023" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9555" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-03T10:07:24.480" Score="1" ViewCount="281" Body="&lt;p&gt;A key part of a Japanese sword is the &lt;em&gt;mekugi&lt;/em&gt;, the tapered peg that fastens the handle to the tang. I am curious what the traditional method is for making this part. I have seen various modern YouTube videos on it, but they are obviously the opinions of westernized hacks that have no relationships to the traditional methods of the Edo Period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for an answer that tells how the mekugi was actually made in the pre-machine Japan, not how it could be made using modern tools, which I already know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2019-05-07T20:10:48.260" Title="How is the mekugi for a katana shaped by traditional methods?" Tags="|dowel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9556" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-03T17:37:12.877" Score="1" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a machinery model Steton SC00NC and it has suffered a damage at the mechanism that turns the blade at 45 degrees. I'm sorry I don't know the exact name of the parts (the mechanism is as in the first photo below), but would like to know if somebody has any idea where can i find to buy these items for the model or something that fits?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jnPOj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hNNsa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7396" LastActivityDate="2019-05-03T20:26:59.090" Title="Turning blade 45 degrees - Steton saw" Tags="|table-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9556" CreationDate="2019-05-03T20:20:01.923" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We can't really help you with any specific vendors that you couldn't find yourself with some internet sleuthing, but one way you can solve this is to find a machinist or metalworker in your area that can repair or recreate suitable parts for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you show is just a worm-gear arrangement of some kind. Depending on the damage, such parts can often be rebuilt or scratch-built quite easily with modern metalworking tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is definitely a case of trading your time (searching for and acquiring parts) for money (paying a tradesperson).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be able to find a metalworker in your area with some web search terms or by asking your local union or &quot;maker space&quot;. YouTube is, surprisingly, an excellent way to find local tradespeople who might be interested in an easy fix-it project in return for an opportunity for a bite-sized project for a video.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, in a pinch you could &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.steton.it/en/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;contact Steton directly&lt;/a&gt;. Even if they can't sell you new-old-stock parts, they can probably provide part names and numbers and perhaps manuals that you can use when talking to a machinist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does appear that this model is a &quot;panel saw&quot; so you might have better luck with those search terms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-05-03T20:26:59.090" LastActivityDate="2019-05-03T20:26:59.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5084" CreationDate="2019-05-05T08:07:58.843" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try to completely coat the entire piece in 2 part epoxy using at least 3 coats. The idea is that it will retain moisture until epoxy has penetrated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7401" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2019-05-05T22:56:32.917" LastActivityDate="2019-05-05T22:56:32.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9555" CreationDate="2019-05-06T15:42:31.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I present this as second-hand opinion only, but a good friend has been studying Samurai martial arts for nearly two decades now. He is, for all intents and purposes, a &quot;Samurai&quot;. At least according to a group of people that maintain Samurai as a martial art. So I asked him about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not only has he seen a lot of various swords up close, but has also seen how these various blade types are maintained and crafted. He also owns a traditionally made set of samurai swords. (I won't embarrass myself by presuming I know the names for the blades or set of blades he owns, or understand the significance of the swords as handed down by the Samurai masters he studies with. Suffice to say he has at least one sword that has a &lt;em&gt;mekugi&lt;/em&gt; installed, and is very familiar with all the parts of a sword that would have a &lt;em&gt;mekugi&lt;/em&gt; installed.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to him, modern crafting of most of the wooden parts of the swords is very similar to what they would have done in the Edo period. That is, not much has &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; changed there. The &lt;em&gt;mekugi&lt;/em&gt; is still smoked bamboo to reduce compression, and is still chosen for specific fibre orientation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, in general, a small assortment of fine carving knives are used to shape the peg for the cleanest fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each peg is custom made and shaped to very high tolerances because the handles are swapped for many ceremonial reasons, and when fitted must allow for a very tight fit without loosening at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, we shouldn't forget that, like many similar arts, traditionally one is apprenticed under a master when learning this stuff. Japan still has a rich tradition of apprenticeship to many things, from sake to swords. That is where the technique comes in. Since the question is really &quot;what techniques have successive masters brought to the art since the Edo Period&quot; I admit I don't know. But, according to someone who is familiar with things now, not much has changed because not much has &lt;em&gt;had&lt;/em&gt; to change. The feeling I get is that such swords were already state-of-the-art well before SE asked this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-05-07T20:10:48.260" LastActivityDate="2019-05-07T20:10:48.260" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9552" CreationDate="2019-05-07T12:32:47.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep wiping.  You might be able to keep your wiping rag in a jar with a lid.  Keep it wet with the oil, and twice a day, wipe the surface with it to add another thin layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The danger with not wiping is having a thicker puddle or streak on it.  This will turn into a stripe of gummy junk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With most drying oils, UV light will hasten the drying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note:  Colour matching can be tricky.  You can get a perfect match in one light, say under the fluorescents in your shop, and find that the match is nowhere near close under sunlight or under halogen light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7398" LastActivityDate="2019-05-07T12:32:47.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9550" CreationDate="2019-05-07T12:40:53.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pictures help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blotchy stain is the result of wood not absorbing stain evenly.  Pine is notorious for this, but many softwoods have this problem.  The sap has resins in it.  This isn't even through the wood, so places where there is more sap take up less colour.  This can also happen due to uneven sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do a precoat with some material to make all the wood somewhat less absorbent.  Shellac diluted with alcohol is often used for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wet the surface first, then apply your stain (water based stains) or wet with solvent for oil based stains. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some woods with an open grain need a filler first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got good results on pine by mixing water soluble stain with water soluble varnish, then applying a zillion coats of it.  The colour with each thin layer got deeper and richer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general:  When you do a project, keep your scraps.  Sand them the way you do your project, and use the scraps for testing your finishing process.  This avoids a whole lot of pain when you find something tht doesn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7398" LastActivityDate="2019-05-07T12:40:53.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3915" CreationDate="2019-05-07T17:29:52.283" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My router has a slotted collet with threads on the outside...wherein a reciprocal threaded nut can be screwed down to tighten the collet grip on a shank that is inserted. This allows for a shank of close..but not exact same size to be used. Each manufacturer of tools use different tooling dies. This is why you can buy say a 1/2 inch socket from two different companies...and one fits perfectly on a 1/2 inch nut...and the other may be a little loose...or not go on at all...the size of the nut can even vary from one manufacturer to the next. If a shank fits into a collet easily...and the tightening nut easily locks that shank tightly into the collet...you should be fine. Simply put router collets are designed on the same principle as a drill chuck that accepts different size bits...although not as wide ranging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7406" LastActivityDate="2019-05-07T17:29:52.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6131" CreationDate="2019-05-07T18:18:32.127" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best option is a water proof wax. The gold standard for water proof waxes is carnauba. Using raw carnauba flake is optimal, but not necessary. If you use flake, it has to be warmed to apply it because it is very hard at room temperature. Carnauba has a beautiful luster. It can be given a matte finish by rubbing with tack cloth, or buffed to produce a deep mirror finish or anywhere in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second best choice would be a semi-permeable wax like a beeswax/paraffin type wax. You make this by melting a pound of beeswax into a pint of linseed oil. It can be thinned with spirits of turpentine, but the less thinning the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use clear epoxy. Epoxy is very tough and waterproof. Some mumbo jumbo terms for clear epoxy formulations are &quot;clear coat&quot; and &quot;sealant&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the old days they used &quot;spar varnish&quot; which is a generally a resin-tung oil distillate. Making this stuff is pretty hard, so epoxy is probably a better choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastEditorUserId="306" LastEditDate="2019-05-07T18:44:23.837" LastActivityDate="2019-05-07T18:44:23.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9545" CreationDate="2019-05-07T20:33:46.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hey i usually over engineer stuff cuz im paranoid, doesnt necessarily mean I have the best answer. I am a carpenter but have never done a bridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would span the scabs to 8’ using plywood so i could easily cut the arch, and put 1-2 layers of 3/4” plywood on either side of the arches.  If the scabs are visible and you want it to look good after just extend the outside pieces all the way to the ends, just keep a full 8’ piece centred on the joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6328" LastActivityDate="2019-05-07T20:33:46.053" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9570" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9571" CreationDate="2019-05-08T22:26:09.033" Score="2" ViewCount="390" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to build a custom box to fit in my car's trunk on one side, as tall and long as the trunk and as wide as little as possible. This would hold my tools, emergency gadgets etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I plan not to invest a whole lot of effort I will avoid box joints and dovetail joints (which I practiced a few times in the past but they seem to have taken too much time and effort) and want to resort to butt-joints reinforced with dowels. I already have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wolfcraft.com/en/products/p/dowel_jointers/1_dowelmaster/s/p/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;doweling jig&lt;/a&gt; from Wolfcraft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to prevent some issues that I had in the past with doweling I am thinking to do things a bit different but that might end up in a disaster so I am asking first here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How about I glue the pieces of the box first, simple (glued) butt joint (that weak kind of joint) wait for the glue to dry and &lt;strong&gt;then&lt;/strong&gt; drill the holes for the dowels, apply the dowels with glue, trim them flush, apply finish etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Would applying the dowels after the first set of glue cured weaken the joints? Or would this have any other downside?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why would I do this? Clamping simplification. Having a long and atypical form and size would ask for large and specialized clamps that I currently do not own and most importantly don't have space for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most videos on the internet (youtube mainly) show doweling as fitting the whole thing in one go not in two stages as I would try so I became curious if such an approach holds a nasty surprise (weak joints or something else).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastActivityDate="2019-05-10T12:31:31.430" Title="Doweling technique - can they be applied in two stages?" Tags="|joinery|technique|glue|dowel|boxes|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9570" CreationDate="2019-05-09T04:23:41.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only downside I can think of is that you'd see the dowels from the outside. But sometimes that can be a desired look, too; it depends on the aesthetic you're going for. It would not weaken the glue joint. In fact, the original joint will not be very strong; gluing to end grain, as with a butt joint, is quite weak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2019-05-09T04:23:41.317" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9572" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-09T07:41:23.803" Score="1" ViewCount="123" Body="&lt;p&gt;Im designing a long desk with a section that has hidden working space underneath. There will be an space (like a drawer) then you can remove the desk surface and access the space underneath. There I can do my electronics work and when people is visiting I put the cover back in place and the desk look like a tidy desk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The desk is in the main room (open concept house) and is against the back of the sofa, so no wall around the desk.&#xA;The desk itself is rather long (L shaped with 2.5+m in the long side) but I don't need the whole surface to have hidden space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Main source of inspiration are board gaming tables like this one: &lt;a href=&quot;https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQyaK9hHKFG9ICiplNuKs3nhLI2cto0U8nt3daWTb09X9oSQPsFjA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CoveredBoardGame&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Approaches I came with so far are :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Removable top lid, like in the boardgame: A removable cover that you take away and put &quot;somewhere&quot;. Not acceptable by my wife :)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hinged cover: the cover will be too big and there is no wall to lean it against so... It will need to stay in the air.. not realistic.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sliding mechanism that allow the cover to slide between the desk and the sofa. Sounds cool but sounds also hard to put back and forth. Not sure&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mechanism to slide the cover under the remaining part of the desk. To me looks like the better approach.. But construction will be &quot;funny&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone has another idea? Have you ever seen something similar ??  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7413" LastActivityDate="2019-05-10T12:26:58.047" Title="Desk with hidden space underneath" Tags="|design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21" CreationDate="2019-05-10T11:52:15.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Originally posted as a Q&amp;amp;A, but marked as duplicate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aftermarket riving knives tend to range from unavailable to sub-optimal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The function of the riving knife is to keep the wood from catching on the rising teeth of the blade. This can happen either through operator error, or from the wood springing to a new shape with the creation of the kerf.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Splitters do this too, but are usually further from the blade, and cannot be used with tilted blades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had an old rockwell-beaver with no guard, no splitter, no riving knife. I still have all my fingers. Large collection of push sticks, and about two pounds of paranoia, and NEVER stand in the plane of the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your fence is set up with a track for jigs, you can get wheels that are slightly out of line, and are spring loaded. They ride up on the board, and will pull the board toward the fence. This reduces the chance of the kerf catching on the rising blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AIaHF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AIaHF.png&quot; alt=&quot;Board Buddies&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one from Jessem, is more solid looking.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IOWqM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IOWqM.png&quot; alt=&quot;Jessem Stock Control&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Couple this with a feather board. The most common style locks into a miter guage slot. There are some slick ones now that have releaseable magnet hold downs, and can both push in and down. This ensures that the board is tight to the fence at the start of the cut.  Featherboards can also be mounted on the fence to push down&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OjE7H.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OjE7H.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Two way featherboard&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NHy0p.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NHy0p.png&quot; alt=&quot;Featherboard&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also get pawls that attach the the fence. This only engages if you have kickback, and does little to prevent it from happening in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally:  The best safety accessory is the one between your ears. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7398" LastActivityDate="2019-05-10T11:52:15.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9572" CreationDate="2019-05-10T12:26:58.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need a garage or a basement.  {grin}&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One traditional approach would be a roll top desk.  Also called a 'tambour door' This might be unwieldy for the large desk you describe, and would look odd if done for only a section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another approach would be to have a work tray that you brought in when you wanted it from some other part of the house.  Contents would vary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A recessed top will be the wrong height for working.  Desktops meant for writing are already marginal for hand work at close visual distances. Most work benches in labs are 36&quot; high, with users perched on stools or standing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are a serious electron pusher you will have a bunch of stuff that doesn't fit in a drawer.  Power supplies, test instrument. Partially disassembled stuff.  Closing up over a hot soldering iron could make your open concept house a lot more open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen &quot;Computer Armoires&quot; where you open two doors, and a shelf slides out far enough that your knees don't hit the lower shelves, but even this, I think, would be cramped.  In a previous life as a system administrator, I had two ikea storage shelves open on both sides.  One shelf on was at 40 inches, and I had a solid core door on it. So I had a 3 x 7 table (public building door) and 2 18&quot; x 36&quot; shelving units.  This was none too big.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to revisit the whole idea, and review all the projects you have done, or want to do, and see how they shoehorn into that space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In passing:  I think you will get pushback about working on things while visiting.  If they are seriously interested, invite them to your shop.  If not, pay attention to them for a while, then make your excuses and leave.  I know I get irritated even if people surf on their phone while I'm visiting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7398" LastActivityDate="2019-05-10T12:26:58.047" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9570" CreationDate="2019-05-10T12:31:31.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can't clamp it up, do your initial assembly with screws and glue.  The screws act as clamps.  Once the glue has cured, remove the screws, and use those same holes as the pilot holes for drilling your dowel holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method would allow you a 'dry fit' -- screw it together without glue, and make sure it fits in the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7398" LastActivityDate="2019-05-10T12:31:31.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9543" CreationDate="2019-05-10T12:41:26.127" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you have a problem with the planned environment.  On a patio it's going to get rained on regularly.  The temperature is going to vary a lot too.  And you're using SPF lumber, which when you buy it is often wet enough to squirt at you when you nail it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sort of table is tricky to do well when used in an indoor environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While not nearly as rustic and cool, consider making the top of marine plywood. Route pin lines in the surface to make faux boards.  Finish is done with a Tromp l'oeil finish with streaks for grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7398" LastActivityDate="2019-05-10T12:41:26.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5608" CreationDate="2019-05-10T13:09:32.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You will want a table saw with a fine tooth blade.  One answer is above using the arbor tilt to get your 45 degrees.  You can also do this with the miter gauge,and using a stop block attached to your fence to get consistent lengths.    Having a block on the miter gauge that supports the back end of the cut off piece will reduce end of cut tear out.  Speaking of which:  Experiment with different blades to reduce tear out.  A sled will make consistent cuts easier.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A stationary belt/disk sander will make finishing faster.  Do the faces &lt;strong&gt;Before&lt;/strong&gt; cutting.  Do edges and sides after.  Note:  Start one grit finder for the sides, and two grits finer for the edges to avoid taking off too much.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you are going to do production runs, make some gauge blocks:  You set this between the blade and the fence and move the fence up.  This allows you to reset for a previous cut quickly.  Label your blocks.  Test them with scrap wood to see that they actually set the saw to the place you want.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For finishing buy a paper of heavy needles.  thread them with dental floss or strong thread.  The other end has a loop tied in it, or is tied onto a 1/4&quot; plate washer.  You have a board with a raft of cup hooks.  stick a needle into a corner, and apply your finish.  Hang to dry.  If you are making a LOT of these, having a spray booth will speed this up a lot.  In that case hang them first, then spray.  The cup-hook board can be either hung from a pair of wall hooks, or hung from a couple of eyescrews set in the ceiling.  Depending on the finish you may be able to dip them, hang initially over a drip catcher, then hang elsewhere.  Your finish has to be thin enough and low enough viscosity that you don't end up with an ugly dried drip on the bottom corner.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7398" LastActivityDate="2019-05-10T13:09:32.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1887" CreationDate="2019-05-10T13:15:00.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here in Canada Habitat for Humanity runs Re-Use-It stores.  You can get all sorts of interesting stuff, usually close outs, or salvage.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the things I've seen frequently are small lots of hardwood flooring.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This might be more trouble than it's worth if pre-finished.   The bottom face usually has several wide shallow grooves, so it would require planing, or gluing back to back to another piece.  The pre-finished ones are very hard, with a thin layer of aluminum oxide.  Might be tough on blades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7398" LastActivityDate="2019-05-10T13:15:00.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8517" CreationDate="2019-05-10T15:04:40.163" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did something similar to make book shelves for paper backs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a given set, I clamped all the verticals together, then made two passes with a radial arm saw to define each side of the cut.  Did the same for the shelves.  Took out the wood between with a chisel. Since the baseof each cut was buried in the joint, I didn't care if that was rough.  My shelves weren't designed to have shelves flush with risers.  I wanted to use 1x4 material (3/4 x 3.5) and a paperback is about 5&quot; wide,so the shelves were proud of the risers by 1.5&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can define the edges of the cut with a regular saw blade, then make a series of passes with a dado to clean out the middle.  Make a few extra pieces during the first stage, so you have test pieces to dado.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7398" LastActivityDate="2019-05-10T15:04:40.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7370" CreationDate="2019-05-11T04:23:33.457" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen 5/16 face nailed (brads) hardwood planking in old (100+ years) in Vancouver.  The usual floor construction was 1x8 shiplap, run diagonally across the joists, then the hardwood (or sometimes edge grain doug fir) nailed to cross the joists at right angles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway:  If you can get a supply of thinner cut hardwood, then  I would consider making a door by gluing and screw two plywood panels 3/4&quot; thick together, then surfacing each side with 1/4&quot; thick hardwood strips.  This would give you a 2&quot; thick door, which I think is still a standard thickness that will work with conventional hardware.  By having the same material on both faces, the stresses should balance -- assuming similar temperature and humidity on both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I leave the problem of hiding the plywood edges as an exercise for the student.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7398" LastActivityDate="2019-05-11T04:23:33.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9535" CreationDate="2019-05-12T02:40:44.067" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The end grain is much quicker at aborbing water than either the face or edge grain.  So the end of the board sucks up the water.  The board tries to expand, but the dry wood further from the end constrains it's motion.  So the force crushes the wood fibers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Board dries out, and the wood shrinks.  But now the crushed fibers take up less room.  Wood splits.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the wood splits, water can use the splits to get in further.  So the splits gradually move in from the ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prevention:  Saturate the ends of the boards with whatever finish you are using.  Sometimes cut ends are in difficult to reach places after construction.  I suggest doing as much of the finishing before assembly as possible, as this will also take care of places where boards overlap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7398" LastActivityDate="2019-05-12T02:40:44.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6411" CreationDate="2019-05-12T02:50:09.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have scraps of the decking, try to reproduce the problem.  If you can do that, you have a way to test solutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that it's some form of oxidation.  A reducing bleach may be sufficient.  Things to try:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Conventional chlorine bleach.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oxygen bleach&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;oxalic acid (radiator cleaner)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wood bleach (sold in outdoor living departments at outrageous prices.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all things that remove the stain are permanent -- might come back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you can remove the stain on the test wood, put a finish on it and put it out in the weather again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another solution:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put chunks of similar sized carpet in random places on the deck, and do the same reaction there.  NOW the problem looks like it was planned, and you will pick up lots of karma from the craft crowd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7398" LastActivityDate="2019-05-12T02:50:09.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6307" CreationDate="2019-05-12T03:15:52.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since it's due in a day, and this is a year later, I suspect that I'm too late.  That ship has sailed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Epoxy I suspect is a lot harder than your other finish, and I think you will find that sanding it without totally destroying the finish around it will be difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the problem is a 'hole' fill the hole with the same material you are using to finish it.  Water based varnishes something like 30% solids, so you will need to fill it a bunch of times.  E.g.:  If your defect is 400 microns (.4 mm or about 1/64 of an inch) fill, let dry, it's now 280.  Fill let dry its about 200.  140. 100 70 50 35 25 ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get there a bit faster if the earlier coats have some form of bulk additive, such as fumed silica (used in fiberglass finish coats.)  Ideally the mix will be close to the colour of your base material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you must turn in in a day, just finish your coats, and leave it.  You can finish it later.  The epoxy trick, may leave you with a destroyed finish that requires stripping and starting over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7398" LastActivityDate="2019-05-12T03:15:52.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9585" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9589" CreationDate="2019-05-12T12:11:45.373" Score="5" ViewCount="5397" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on my first major glue up, and I noticed a failure to bond properly along the edge of the outer board, see picture below. I did some research, and I can think of a number of things I did wrong that caused this -- not enough glue, not using scrap pieces to spread out the pressure, not using freshly worked faces, working too slow, etc. My question is, what do I do now? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I simply try to pour more glue into the cracks, clamp is again, and hope for the best? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I try to drip denatured alcohol into the cracks, to soften the glue and pry it apart, then try to glue it up again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have access to power tools, so simply cutting off the offending board on the table saw and starting again isn't really an option for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p9plu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p9plu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7420" LastActivityDate="2019-05-14T16:27:29.367" Title="How to address a failed glue up?" Tags="|gluing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8298" CreationDate="2019-05-13T01:19:17.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Haven't done this, so take this with large grain of salt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Carefully put a coat of varnish or shelac on the top face only of the split veneer.  (You may want to do the whole surface so that it's consistent. The varnish should make it easier to clean up the squeeze out.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Apply your glue, and clamp.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You may want to use a water soluble glue so that clean up is easier.  How likely is this area to get wet?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I can't see how thick the veneer is.  Some are only 1/100&quot; thick, which makes the refinishing tricky.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Some of the splits look like it got wet before, swelled, and split.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;See if you can find weathered plywood with similar delaminating.  Do your experiments on that. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this is an excellent challenge for the restorer's craft, are you sure these are worth it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7398" LastActivityDate="2019-05-13T01:19:17.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7799" CreationDate="2019-05-13T01:28:00.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a live edge table with a lot of the flat part of the table being some 2 inches in from the bottom of the live edge. Several times this has caused things to fall off the table, as it keeps people from sitting closer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an extreme case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a kid we had a table with an ogee edge.  That edge was narrow enough that it was easy to nick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My take:  The actual edge should be rounded to about 3/16 to 1/4&quot; radius.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the edge face should be parallel to the backs of the chairs so that someone slides in a chair too fast, it distributes the impact over more wood, avoiding nicks.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For interest, use a different colour of wood, set into the edge.  This gives you a replaceable strip if there is damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7398" LastActivityDate="2019-05-13T01:28:00.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7198" CreationDate="2019-05-13T01:38:17.503" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Speeding the drying of finish:  Not always a good idea -- it can check, delaminate...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you need to do it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Increase the temperature.  Reactions happen faster at warmer temps.  Warm air holds less water vapour, so water based finishes will lose their solvent faster.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Decrease the humidity.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Move the object into the sun.  This works especially for drying oils such as linseed and tung oil.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7398" LastActivityDate="2019-05-13T01:38:17.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9585" CreationDate="2019-05-13T07:18:26.670" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're in luck here in that this is just with the edge board, it would be worse if it were one of the joints somewhere in the middle. It's hard to be sure from just the one pic but it does look like a couple of the other joints aren't great either which is sort of to be expected, but lots of not-very-good glue joints&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; give decent enough service so this could be no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do I simply try to pour more glue into the cracks, clamp is again, and hope for the best? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously you know this would be a ghetto fix and anyway this won't work. The existing dry glue in the gap will physically hold the two surfaces apart and prevent a good glue joint from subsequently forming. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do I try to drip denatured alcohol into the cracks, to soften the glue and pry it apart, then try to glue it up again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a reasonable idea but DA is the wrong solvent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So, what to do now?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As bad as this looks and as weak as it will be (relatively) you may be able to get away with it depending on what this is for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to get this off you can take advantage of this being a weak joint and just prise the two pieces apart. One or two flat-head screwdrivers or a couple of hardwood wedges would probably do the trick without too much difficulty. Bear in mind the amount of effort needed to get a lot of dried glue off the edges once you do separate them, this can take a lot more work than you anticipate if you don't have the right tools on hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you end up just leaving it you have a good number of options for filling the crack. If it's only visible on the underside I'd just ignore it, nobody else will know it's there and out of sight you'll probably forget about it yourself eventually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For next time&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Work in subassemblies if you can't get this many glue joints done quickly enough.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have everything ready to go before even uncapping the glue. This should include having the clamps, at least the major ones, lined up and opened to the appropriate width for the glue-up being done.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Work out a way to spread your glue faster&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More clamps or stronger clamps, and tightened harder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Arguably the majority of glue joints done by weekend warriors and leisure woodworkers aren't as strong as they could be due to two factors. The first is because of the widespread, but largely mistaken, belief that clamping too hard can lead to starved joints. The second is that PVA is the most widespread glue used in woodworking and this &lt;em&gt;requires&lt;/em&gt; high clamp pressure to achieve a strong joint!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Rollers are good. A notched plastic spreader can work well too, old credit cards or store debit cards are great candidates for conversion to spreaders (useful for both glue and some finishes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-05-13T07:18:26.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3991" CreationDate="2019-05-13T14:13:59.260" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Secure the saw blade in a vise or clamp it down and using a trangle file, try to match the angle of the teeth and simply give a couple strokes to each tooth. Lay the file in the first gullet (space between the teeth) and give it a couple strokes. Then on down the line. The more consistent and evenly you cut, the better your results but perfection is not necessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the file cannot cut the metal then the next best option would be to use a small rotary tool such as a Dremel with a grinding stone or cut-off wheel. Give each tooth a touch with the stone and again, just attempt to maintain the angle of the original teeth. One could also use a bigger hand-held grinder though that could be unwieldy and difficult to get a good result. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever method you use, the more consistent you are, the better your results but even a very bad attempt will likely restore useable function to the blade. Whether it's worth the time versus purchasing a new blade depends on the situation. There are many contexts where it could make sense to do this and I've definitely been in these situations. Perhaps you are short on time, the store is far away, there is only a little more cutting to do, you are not able to get to a store at all etc.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4327" LastActivityDate="2019-05-13T14:13:59.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9585" CreationDate="2019-05-13T17:03:17.233" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Woodworking is an art and a science.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the amount of glue you have in that joint, it's more likely that the wood will break instead of the glue joint failing. There is no reason to remake this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o3yb6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o3yb6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;manual annotation&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I manually annotated this image to show where the glue joint has closed. It looks like the glue joint is only 44% closed. &lt;code&gt;% closed = green_area / (green_area + red_area)&lt;/code&gt;. Wood glue has a holding strength of 100-300 lbs/sq-in in soft wood. Several square inches of this glue joint have closed, so it should be much stronger than the two wood pieces that it joins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What do I do now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make it look better. Mix wood glue and sawdust. Push the mixture into the joint. Use  a hand-plane or sandpaper after the mixture dries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5389" LastEditorUserId="5389" LastEditDate="2019-05-14T16:27:29.367" LastActivityDate="2019-05-14T16:27:29.367" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9585" CreationDate="2019-05-13T22:08:32.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think Graphus's answer is pretty much right on, but I want to give you another alternative in case you're not interested in tearing the whole thing apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could reinforce the joint with a gap-filling adhesive, such as epoxy.  Unfortunately, I don't think you'll get a good bond to the dried glue surface, so I think you'd have to remove it somehow.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the easiest way to get a fresh surface would be to drill holes slightly bigger than the gap every few inches along the failed joint.  Then get a good two-part epoxy (I like Entropy or West brands) and use a disposable syringe to &quot;inject&quot; it into the holes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want it to look nice use enough epoxy to make the whole thing flush.  Depending on the filler you use you might also want to tint the epoxy with some dye.  If the gap goes through to the bottom of the piece you will need to cover the joint with tape beforehand so the epoxy doesn't just run through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2019-05-13T22:08:32.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9593" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-14T10:04:40.970" Score="3" ViewCount="2089" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've knocked together some plywood to make a shoe rack and I've messed up the cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6SPfq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6SPfq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a gap that I thought I could live with but I'd like to try and fix if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BbGUI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BbGUI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Emwib.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Emwib.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice the slight bulge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought I might get away with using clamps to pull it together but I'm worried I'll end up ripping the screws out when I release the clamps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short of replacing the top shelf or shortening the middle and bottom shelves, which I'd rather not do, is there something else I could try?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7414" LastActivityDate="2019-05-31T18:02:28.493" Title="How to fix a gap in plywood screwed joint" Tags="|plywood|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9593" CreationDate="2019-05-14T12:23:31.757" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks like a problem commonly encountered when the clearance hole in the first board (the one on the outside of the joint - in your case the vertical piece) is not wide enough. This hole should be at least as wide as the widest part of the screw threads. The true pilot hole in the second piece should be sized appropriately for the screw and type of wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The screw basically should not be grabbing into the first piece - the head of the screw should simply apply force sideways (in this case). All the grabbing should be to pull your horizontal piece against the vertical piece. Does that make sense? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be able to solve this problem by backing out the screws, clamping the pieces together tightly, and rescrewing. Otherwise, you'll have to widen the holes in the vertical piece somewhat. Be careful when you do this to keep the holes approximately centered. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2019-05-14T12:23:31.757" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8356" CreationDate="2019-05-14T17:21:07.757" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was always told to cut the shoulder of the rabbet first and then cut the cheek because it makes a slightly nicer cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as safety considerations, I've cut rabbets both ways. As long as the you hold the piece down and against the fence it should be safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7424" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2019-05-14T22:12:20.913" LastActivityDate="2019-05-14T22:12:20.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7645" CreationDate="2019-05-14T17:26:17.687" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you use half-blind dovetails, you can position the dado so it is hidden behind one of the dovetail pins so it wouldn't be visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7424" LastActivityDate="2019-05-14T17:26:17.687" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7951" CreationDate="2019-05-14T17:56:03.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use a dull chisel to remove the bulk of the material, being careful not to cut into the wood, then use a flap sanding wheel to remove the rest of the material to clean up the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7424" LastEditorUserId="7424" LastEditDate="2019-05-15T15:06:57.473" LastActivityDate="2019-05-15T15:06:57.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9600" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-15T20:44:14.707" Score="2" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm creating some exterior wood shutters made from Eastern Red Cedar (rails and stiles) and Western Red Cedar (panels). The mismatch really has more to do with what's available locally than a design choice. The &quot;boss&quot; wants them to be raised panel. She does not like board-and-batten because they're too rustic for her tastes, and louvered are boring to her. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting together a frame and panel are pretty straightforward, so my question is more about the details. These shutters will be primed and painted, but there's the possibility that water could get inside the frame. For this reason I'm considering drilling 2 or 3 &quot;weep&quot; holes in the bottom rail that will allow water to drain rather than sit if water gets down into the groove the panel sits in. Let me know if this isn't clear, but is this a decent idea? How did the old timers handle that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, I'm going to attach hardware since these will be working shutters. Should I put a dab of caulk into the holes before I drill the hardware to keep water out? What's the best practices to make sure wood shutters last as long as possible? Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4252" LastActivityDate="2019-05-15T20:44:14.707" Title="Long lasting exterior shutters" Tags="|water-protection|panel|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8399" CreationDate="2019-05-16T13:45:14.427" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a big fan of a &lt;a href=&quot;https://generalfinishes.com/wood-finishes-retail/water-based-topcoats-and-sanding-sealer/high-performance-water-based-topcoat&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;water based polyurethane&lt;/a&gt; for projects like this (linked as a reference not an endorsement). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easy to clean up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stays clear over time (no ambering)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very durable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easy to apply&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is a smell on application but it is mild and goes away when dry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted your game to have a color other than the wood color I'd go with stain over paint. Stain would go on first and then the poly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to be clear, the pyrographing would be done before the finish is applied&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6222" LastActivityDate="2019-05-16T13:45:14.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9602" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-17T02:03:40.220" Score="2" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m fairly new to wood working. I took a shop class in school years ago but that’s about the extent of my knowledge. I was wondering what a good wood would be to make a jewelry box using the scroll saw? Also does it matter what blades you use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7434" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2019-05-22T01:03:53.270" LastActivityDate="2019-05-22T01:03:53.270" Title="What wood can I use to make a jewelry box with a scroll saw?" Tags="|wood-selection|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2019-05-22T15:58:03.223" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9603" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-17T15:05:21.467" Score="3" ViewCount="721" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a walnut desk that now requires a 2&quot; walnut grommet (since I cut the hole in the desk before realizing that walnut grommets are only for sale in 1 3/4&quot; size)....so I need to make my own. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pretty simple if I had a lathe to turn it on but that's not the case. Does anyone have an idea of how to create a 1/2&quot; lip on a round wood plug that would be required for a desk grommet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7436" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-05-17T16:47:09.837" LastActivityDate="2019-05-20T06:40:04.103" Title="How to make a desk grommet without a lathe?" Tags="|tools|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3954" CreationDate="2019-05-17T15:09:02.493" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this question was asked some time ago but if anyone else is searching for the answer here is a link to an easy guide for determining screw placement on wood projects. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/easy-math-formula-spacing-fasteners/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/easy-math-formula-spacing-fasteners/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2893" LastActivityDate="2019-05-17T15:09:02.493" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9603" CreationDate="2019-05-17T16:45:35.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few minutes after writing my Comment it occurred to me that although it would be easy enough to do this manually using hand tools the simplest method to make one of these is not to cut a lip at all but to use build-up construction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You just need two small pucks of walnut, one the major diameter and the other the minor diameter (2&quot;?). Glue the smaller one dead centre to the underside of the larger one and you're essentially done, except for any final sanding you want to do before finish goes on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The whole process not including waiting for glue to dry should be about 15-30 minutes depending on the tools available and the walnut stock you have on hand. And if you use superglue/CA or hot-melt glue you don't even need to factor in glue drying time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-05-20T06:40:04.103" LastActivityDate="2019-05-20T06:40:04.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9606" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9607" CreationDate="2019-05-17T22:10:11.820" Score="4" ViewCount="624" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to turning and I'm looking to turn some chisel handles, but I want them all to look the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any printable online templates that anyone knows of? Is there anyway I can create my own? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5498" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-05-18T05:25:51.920" LastActivityDate="2019-05-18T05:25:51.920" Title="Turning chisel handle templates?" Tags="|wood|turning|chisel|handle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9606" CreationDate="2019-05-18T00:48:59.270" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A quick search for lathe turning tool handles presents a number of links but no real results for templates. Making a template is rather straightforward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Create a profile of the handle shape you wish. You can view others' work to determine what looks pleasant and functional and use that as a starting point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Create a pencil sketch on paper to represent the shape of your handle. Do so at actual size and make comparisons to your selected image during the process. You need only to create half of the shape, but you'll find that your sketch will be easier to appreciate if done as a complete shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you are satisfied with the sketch, mark the centerline and fold or cut your paper in half. This should be transferred to heavier stock, something that will hold up to multiple uses. My practice with templates is to apply rubber cement or glue stick to the paper when applying it to the heavier stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cut away the inside of the template from the heavier stock. You can use this to &quot;shadow&quot; your work piece to determine areas to be cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above method is somewhat cumbersome and allows for some variation. You can accomplish more precise duplication with a few additional templates:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After creating the center line on your template, identify valleys and peaks on the design. Create perpendicular lines to the center line at those points. You can/should write down the distance from the center line to the valley or peak on the paper template.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the turning process, use calipers to measure your locations and compare with the numbers you've recorded. You will get some minor variations but the results will be more precise than if you used a full length template.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One word is worth one one-thousandth of a picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NCL26.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NCL26.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;template image 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zJGJR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zJGJR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;template image 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G8mTq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G8mTq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;template image 3&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a bit different from my description, but the concept is sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photos above courtesy &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lumberjocks.com/topics/59713&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;LumberJocks&lt;/a&gt; web site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2019-05-18T00:48:59.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9603" CreationDate="2019-05-18T05:36:33.477" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first thought would be to use two hole saws.  A large one with an inside diameter of about 2.5 inches, and a smaller one with an inside diameter of about 2 inches.  Drill about 2/3 of the way through with the smaller one, then drill all the way through with the larger one.  Then use a small handsaw to cut through the annulus, rotating the piece repeatedly as you cut through.  If you have a drill press you can use the hole saws without the center pilot if you don't want a small hole in the center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2276" LastActivityDate="2019-05-18T05:36:33.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9609" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-18T16:14:04.593" Score="1" ViewCount="488" Body="&lt;p&gt;I picked up a relatively cheap plunge router that takes 3/8&quot; however I can't seem to find any reasonably priced 3/8&quot; shank bit kits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found 1/4&quot; and obviously it doesn't fit. Is there an adapter that would make these 1/4&quot; fit ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference the router is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Laptronix-1200w-Electric-Router-Cutter-Variable-Speed-Plunge-Joiners-Woodworking/352444693807?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D8e50e5feb9f045b395fe4e86f371d22f%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D15%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D401694223990%26itm%3D352444693807&amp;amp;_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&amp;amp;_trkparms=pageci%3Aafab856d-7987-11e9-9f10-74dbd180e358%7Cparentrq%3Acbb6fdf216a0ad78ed81f064fff5248a%7Ciid%3A1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Laptronix&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7439" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-05-22T01:03:10.347" LastActivityDate="2019-05-22T01:03:10.347" Title="Reducing collet 3/8&quot; - 1/4&quot;" Tags="|router|router-bit|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9610" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9612" CreationDate="2019-05-19T17:57:14.853" Score="5" ViewCount="1334" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read over and over that portable table saw or certain table saws are not good for fine woodworking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about starting to build my own cabinets, shelves and tables. So I've been looking around for table saw reviews and often times the reviewer will mention that this or that table saw is not built for fine woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are portable table saws ok to accomplish this kind of work? Because they are usually much cheaper in price. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be look for a specific type of table saw to do cabinets, shelves and tables?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do people usually define as &quot;fine woodworking?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to be clear, I'm not looking for a product recommendation, but which table saws are designed for which specific tasks. If any exist at all!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6237" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-05-20T06:36:16.683" LastActivityDate="2019-05-20T06:36:16.683" Title="Why are portable table saws bad for &quot;fine woodwoorking&quot;?" Tags="|table-saw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9610" CreationDate="2019-05-20T01:29:12.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cheap contractor table saws* are not accurate, the better ones seem to be good, although lacking power and capacity. Having said that the upper half of them would work for most people's woodworking, could be a little inconvenient. Some people put me to shame using junk saws.(*currently with aluminum tops)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally use a 50's vintage Craftsman cast iron top and wings contractors' saw, modified with new highly accurate rip fence, much larger motor, and upgraded miter gauge probably now I would get less than $500 or so tied up in it (doing it today) new equivalent would be over $700. The older saws are often lacking blade guards, splitters, etc as mine is. I still have all of my fingers after 40+ years of using it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fine woodworking is hard to define like art.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-05-20T06:26:59.453" LastActivityDate="2019-05-20T06:26:59.453" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9610" CreationDate="2019-05-20T03:52:12.197" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fine Woodworking is typically considered as using only solid hardwood for construction.  Portable saws are made for the construction industry.  What is considered as &quot;accurate&quot; on a job site, say 1/16 of an inch, is not very accurate by fine woodworking standards, where 1/64 or higher tolerances are sometimes required.  In keeping with that definition, here are some reasons why portable table saws are not considered as good for the task.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Power&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cabinet saws are run by large induction motors and have a very smooth power curve.  They can handle rip cuts in 8/4 hardwood without bogging down.  Most portable saws will use a much smaller motor that will not handle the sustained load.  Smaller saws compensate somewhat for their lower power by using thin kerf blades.  It can also be tough to run a dado stack with a portable saw - they often lack the power to make deep, wide cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rigidity&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top of most cabinet saws is cast iron.  It is quite heavy, but very stable.  The more solidly built cabinet, along with the more powerful motors allow full kerf saw blades to be used.  These blades are less likely to deflect, keeping the cuts at a consistent angle.  The aluminum tables on a portable saw are more likely to deflect when cutting larger lumber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Repeatability&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fences on cabinet saws lock very tightly, and multiple cuts can be made without deflection or slippage.  Multiple cuts made with the same settings will typically all be identical.  With lighter saws, you typically see some deflection in the fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many of the deficiencies that the portable saws have can be overcome, and many may not be an issue for whatever you are wanting to do.  If you never plan on having to rip a 10' long 8/4 hard maple board, or trim large panels (as in building a dresser), or need very repeatable cuts (making a chessboard), then a portable saw may serve you well.  You may start with one, and later find that it isn't adequate for your needs.  In that case, sell it, and buy something more suitable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2019-05-20T03:52:12.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9613" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-20T23:08:14.307" Score="2" ViewCount="579" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two 30 meter sitka spruces that have fallen in my yard. I'd like to process them into usable planks ideally as long as possible only using hand tools. Can someone give me a step by step on how to do this? I've been reading about riving and hewing and splitting but I'm not sure how it all fits together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5498" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2019-05-20T23:13:03.917" LastActivityDate="2019-06-12T15:43:33.697" Title="How to produce lumber from logs?" Tags="|milling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8298" CreationDate="2019-05-21T12:40:43.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A neat trick for lifting veneer; even bubbles in the center:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using an artists brush, swab wood glue under the lifted area, making sure you get glue on both the lift and the substrate. Wipe away the excess and &lt;em&gt;let it dry&lt;/em&gt; (I know... but read on).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, go &quot;borrow&quot; the electric clothes iron from the laundry room and plug it in and set on medium. Obviously, if you have a banding iron you can use that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, press and hold the hot iron on the lifted area for 5-6 seconds and then slowly move the iron in small circles working out from the lifted area gradually decreasing pressure. Then just lift the iron away and let the area cool. It might take one or two tries, but this method always works for me. Just make sure the glue has fully dried before applying the heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7442" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-05-22T01:02:51.947" LastActivityDate="2019-05-22T01:02:51.947" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9593" CreationDate="2019-05-21T13:20:13.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issue is that the top shelf is shorter than the other two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have three choices (four if you count do nothing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Shorten the other two to match.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Widen the top shelf with a shim cut to match the gap. If you don't have access to a saw that can cut that fine, go buy some veneer banding from Home Depot. Two or three layers should do it by the look of things.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get some thin washers to stack on the screws between the boards. Structurally ok but will look... not ok.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7442" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-05-31T18:02:28.493" LastActivityDate="2019-05-31T18:02:28.493" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8501" CreationDate="2019-05-21T13:42:14.643" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of provisos:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stick to dewaxed shellac: If it doesn't say dewaxed, it's not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't used shellac that's been opened longer than a week or so (or if you make your own from flakes). Liquid shellac is hygroscopic (it absorbs water from the air).  Old shellac never loses its tackiness (at least here in the Mid-Atlantic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shellac can work well as a crawling/ crazing fix for refinishing where chemical/silicon contamination is making finish issues with water based or lacquer finishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stacking disparate finishes is fraught with boobytraps. Especially when you can't identify the old finish(es). Even experienced pros get caught out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7442" LastActivityDate="2019-05-21T13:42:14.643" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8400" CreationDate="2019-05-21T13:59:50.707" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ive had good luck with this:&#xA;Genereal Finishes Outdoor Oil&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But your results will vary, depending on regional climate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7442" LastActivityDate="2019-05-21T13:59:50.707" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9618" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-23T07:42:11.133" Score="3" ViewCount="10851" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am asking about the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/p/6416U-1-in-x-1-in-x-48-in-Hardwood-Round-Dowel-10001808/203334068&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;6416U 1 in. x 1 in. x 48 in. Hardwood Round Dowel&lt;/a&gt; they sell at Home Depot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to join 3 4x4s and use the middle one as a swivel, the middle one will be under load and the 2 outside 4x4s will be static. I am wondering how much the 1 inch dowel can support. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The duty cycle will be light at best (5-10 rotations daily) and does not have to last for years. Ideally, this should be simple enough that have no issue replacing it every year, and it will be outside under a shaded area. It might get slightly wet from time to time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the direction of the load will be downward and slighting pushing left/west. (I added a picture to the original post to help illustrate). The load I expect it to hold is 600-700lbs. Also the 4x4 I will be using will be Pressure-Treated Timber HF Brown Stain from homedepot (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/p/Pressure-Treated-Timber-HF-Brown-Stain-Common-4-in-x-4-in-x-8-ft-Actual-3-56-in-x-3-56-in-x-96-in-17956/202287539&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.homedepot.com/p/Pressure-Treated-Timber-HF-Brown-Stain-Common-4-in-x-4-in-x-8-ft-Actual-3-56-in-x-3-56-in-x-96-in-17956/202287539&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I attached an image to better explain. The green line is the dowel, the red object is the middle beam, and the blue objects are the static posts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0KWmR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0KWmR.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NJClX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NJClX.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7446" LastEditorUserId="7446" LastEditDate="2019-05-24T19:36:33.670" LastActivityDate="2019-06-04T16:48:15.407" Title="How Much Weight Can a 1inch x 11inch Dowel Hold/Support?" Tags="|wood|wood-selection|wood-repair|strength|dowel|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9618" CreationDate="2019-05-23T09:20:20.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There isn't one answer to this, not least because HD sell it as &quot;hardwood&quot; so even the species isn't known. But even if the species were known (and it never changed&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;) wood can always be different from the textbook numbers because it's a natural material and it varies. Even pieces from the same tree can vary a lot or a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On top of that the flow of grain down the length of the dowel is critical to its strength&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As if that weren't enough how well the dowel fits your drilled holes in the side 2x4s will have some effect on strength with many glues&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So how much weight &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; this hold?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The only way to know for sure is to find out empirically — try it and see. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is for something important I'd make a sacrificial test piece, being just as careful with its construction as with the final one. Then test it to destruction by adding more and more weight until it fails. Then you have your answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some assembly tips:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't drill the holes freehand. If you don't own a drill press there are various jigs you can quickly make to help you drill square.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the fit of the dowel is not very tight I'd recommend using epoxy. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wax the centre portion of the dowel well during assembly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be sure to sand the dowel lightly just prior to glue-up, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4151/what-do-i-need-to-do-to-prepare-wood-for-gluing/4159#4159&quot;&gt;here's why&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Surprisingly given the title there's relevant info in this previous Question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3592/where-should-the-trademark-be-placed-on-a-baseball-bat&quot;&gt;Where should the trademark be placed on a baseball bat?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Which I would expect &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; to be the case, not across the entire country with all the various hardwood species that are locally abundant and cheap. For all we know it could be oak one place, maple another and something else elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; The more longitudinal the better. On the dowel pictured, see the chevrons facing the camera? Those are grain lines and they indicate the flow of grain in that particular piece is at an angle, something called &lt;em&gt;grain runout&lt;/em&gt;. You want there to be minimal (less than in the picture) or no runout in the piece you select to maximise strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Commercial dowels are notorious for only nominally being the size they're sold as and you can fully expect these to be no different. Dowels can also shrink differentially, ending up with a slight oval cross-section. Plus, even assuming your drill bit is exactly to size that doesn't guarantee each hole you drill with it will be a uniform 1&quot; diameter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-05-23T09:20:20.170" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9618" CreationDate="2019-05-23T09:24:57.767" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In what direction is the load?  Depending on what the blue and red pieces are made of, and the grain direction in them, and the direction of the load, I would not be surprised if they failed first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more precisely the dowel fits in the hole, the stronger the result will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be surprised if a 1&quot; dowel in reasonable tight holes couldn't hold a couple of hundred kilos.  I wouldn't want to support a couple of tons.  How big a load do you have in mind?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1646" LastActivityDate="2019-05-23T09:24:57.767" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9622" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-24T19:14:36.060" Score="1" ViewCount="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have started turning some goblets and shot glasses, and I'm trying to find a good finish for them that can be nice and glossy, but doesn't need constant reapplication. I'm pretty sure that shellac is out, since it dissolves in alcohol, but I don't know if polyurethane or CA glue would be a more permanent and safe finish. Since I'll be selling these to local bars and restaurants, the main thing is that the finish can't be something needing frequent reapplication, so things like beeswax and mineral oil are probably out too. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7452" LastEditorUserId="7452" LastEditDate="2019-05-24T22:03:21.050" LastActivityDate="2019-05-24T22:03:21.050" Title="I'm looking for a good finish for goblets and shot glasses" Tags="|finishing|glue|polyurethane|turning|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="9" ClosedDate="2019-06-12T17:57:32.923" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9623" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-25T03:00:50.193" Score="3" ViewCount="490" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to be able to easily connect and disconnect two 3/4&quot; dowels to each other. All the couplings I've been able to find out there, while they say they are 3/4&quot; they do not fit tightly to 3/4&quot; dowels. So thinking I need to make about 1/2&quot; of the ends of dowels a uniform maybe 1/16 of an inch thinner so they fit in the couplings I have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope to make a lot of these to sell so need it to be uniform and efficient. I am not a skilled wood worker and have only basic tools so a simple solution is best. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7454" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-05-25T11:24:48.110" LastActivityDate="2019-05-25T11:24:48.110" Title="How can I make the 1/2 inch tip of 3/4&quot; dowels maybe 1/16 of an inch thinner so they fit in a coupling?" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9624" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-25T08:41:36.403" Score="2" ViewCount="175" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a deck that I built in 1986 with treated lumber, that last year we used a stain sealer on and the sealer was bled thru at mostly knot locations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used clear sealer many times over the years on this deck. You would think that as old as the wood is this should not happen. I scrubbed the deck with stiff bristle brush and a strong cleaner, heavy on bleach, and it looked good after applying stain sealer, but then in spring it showed many bare spots at the knots. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to rectify this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7455" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-05-25T11:36:46.677" LastActivityDate="2019-05-25T11:36:46.677" Title="Knots bleeding through deck sealer" Tags="|finishing|wood|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9623" CreationDate="2019-05-25T10:09:34.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One tool you can use is called a tenon cutter. It's the equivalent of the old-school pencil sharpener, a blade adjacent to a hole into which you insert the dowel and twist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0002JA5FY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon sells one&lt;/a&gt; that is designed to be used with a drill motor, but you could use it by clamping it and rotating the dowels by hand, although that would become tedious in short order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/crwwp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/crwwp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;tenon cutter&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The link above references a 3/4&quot; cutter. There are other models which are adjustable for diameter of cut. Tenon cutters would represent an investment, as the prices I've found are in the hundred dollar range, but should last through the many tenons you'll be creating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another method, perhaps less expensive, is to have someone bore a hole in a thick piece of steel for the correct diameter. Dowels would be hammered into the hole, with the excess diameter being sheared/scraped from the dowel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a search for &quot;DIY tenon cutter&quot; and found an interesting &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C4gO1jA2d0g&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube video&lt;/a&gt;, but it requires the use of a lathe to rotate the dowel at high speed. Inexpensive open end wrenches were ground to have a cutting edge on the end of one jaw, to be used as a form of lathe chisel. Not practical for basic tool owners, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More to the point is this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mjFnMjlt6SE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube video&lt;/a&gt;, which provides instruction to create one's own pencil-sharpener cutter, using a plane blade. The video describes creating a tapered tenon, but the angle can be adjusted to create a &quot;normal&quot; cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You suggest that someone could build a tool for you, but SE does not have the facility for such contacts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2019-05-25T10:09:34.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9593" CreationDate="2019-05-25T11:12:01.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Edge banding is nothing more than veneer sold in strips 1 or 2 in wide, preglued (usually). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unscrew the offending shelf and layer one, two or three strips of banding over each other on the end until you get a snug fit between the uprights. Trim the excess with a sharp utility knife and use some leftover stain to match. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Screw back in place and keep it movin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure that using a more aggressive screw and &quot;pulling it in&quot; may work.....for a while. The problem is that plywood only has good strength for fastener holding through the plys....not within (latitudinally). Building tension (stress) into a piece usually ends with that stress self-relieving in the weakest spot in wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;JMHO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also....if you look carefully in your third photo....you can see that the middle or front screw is already pushing up some of the plys on the shelf...using a more aggressive screw is going to make that worse and possibly tear out a chunk of shelf. Ask me how I know....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7442" LastEditorUserId="7442" LastEditDate="2019-05-25T11:33:15.993" LastActivityDate="2019-05-25T11:33:15.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8297" CreationDate="2019-05-25T19:06:55.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;How to tell what type of finish you have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fortunately, you have some flakes.&#xA;The finish is water damaged...that's why its lifting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drop some of the flakes into a glass jar of denatured alcohol.....if they dissolve, you have a shellac finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not...put a few flakes into some lacquer thinner....if they dissolve, you have nitro or acrylic lacquer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These finishes are cross-linking finishes; I.e. one layer melds or melts into the next because of the solvent nature of the carriers (the liquifiing agent).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If its neither of these, it could be an oil based finish, or one of the newer acrylic or water based urethanes, which don't lend themselved to easy repairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of the cross-linking type finishes can often be repaired without full stripping and refinishing....but in the case of this piece which has large amounts of missing finish, I would mask off everything but the top and use a soy stripper like Ready Strip to lift the remainder of the top finish. After you are done, rinse the top with a wet rag to remove any remaining stripper. Let it dry a couple of days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LIGHTLY hand sand with 320 on a felt covered block to knock down the grain from wetting. De-dust with a vacuum or pressurized air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To determine what it will look like without stain....take a rag with some Paint Thinner and wipe it across the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How it looks when wet will pretty much be how the various woods will look with a couple coats of clear lacquer or shellac. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If how it looks is close to the rest of the piece, there are tints (dyes) available from Woodcrafters that can be mixed in  to the finish before you apply to get closer to the shade of the rest of the piece.&#xA; If its way off, you may have to experiment with stains to get it to match before you top coat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P S... I'm just guessing.... But what you have there looks like the darker veneer is mahogany and it appears there was little if no stain..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most likely you'll end up with just light amber shellac or light amber lacquer as the only company.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But again, I'm looking at it through camera and display and, as they say: you're results may vary......&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, Graphus is right....water based strippers do run the risk of lifting old veneers. .....but the fumes of the old stripper can burn flesh and lungs of the uninitiated. Veneer can be repaired. Health; less so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7442" LastEditorUserId="7442" LastEditDate="2019-05-25T19:15:24.683" LastActivityDate="2019-05-25T19:15:24.683" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9629" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-25T22:41:32.863" Score="3" ViewCount="3211" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am really new to woodworking and I'm out of ideas on how to accomplish this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am making a magnetic knife block. The stock is 11&quot; long x 3&quot; wide x 1 12/16&quot; deep. I need to cut a 1 1/4&quot; wide by 1 11/16&quot; deep groove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a router with plunge and fixed base and a router table. My router only goes 1&quot; deep (bit depth).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any good ideas? I've considered a drill bit and chisel, but I don't have a drill press and this has to be accurate(ish).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7457" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-05-26T16:48:03.133" LastActivityDate="2019-05-26T16:48:03.133" Title="Router, how make a deep plunge cut?" Tags="|technique|router|router-bit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9629" CreationDate="2019-05-26T05:45:59.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The depth that a router can cut depends on the router as well as the bit.  Look for a long router bit and you should be able to cut to the depth you need.  You don't need a large bit - use a small (3/8 or 1/2&quot; diameter) bit and multiple passes to cut the groove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2276" LastActivityDate="2019-05-26T05:45:59.757" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9631" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9632" CreationDate="2019-05-26T19:50:49.373" Score="3" ViewCount="341" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm designing a bench for the entryway of our home that will have a place to sit, have two drawers and a bottom shelf for shoes. I'm designing it in Blender, but would like some help confirming the soundness of my plan since I'm new to fine woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me know if more details are needed below. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1paUi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1paUi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bench preview&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Basic Details&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Overall dimensions: 52&quot; W x 21.5&quot; H x 17.5&quot; D&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leg rail/stiles are 1.75&quot; wide in two of the dimensions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All other panels are 3/4&quot; thick except the drawer faces which will be 5/8&quot; thick&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plan to use walnut and another pale hardwood for the drawer faces&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Side &amp;amp; Back Panel views&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I planned on using a double mortise-tenon on both sides of these panels to join to the leg stile. The tenons would roughly be 1&quot; long, 3/8&quot; thick and 1.25&quot; wide. The panels are 5.25&quot; in height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I chose a double mortise-tenon joint based on the internet's &quot;rule of thumb&quot; size for this joinery; one mortise-tenon on each size would be too large if I wanted to avoid movement in future is my understanding. Please let me know if I'm wrong here though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NEJ1e.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NEJ1e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Side panel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sQWjF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sQWjF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Back panel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Top &amp;amp; bottom pieces of drawer carcass&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Joining these pieces are my main trouble point right now. My first thought is to use dowels. See the picture below as an example for joining the top to the side panels. I was thinking of doing similar for the bottom piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I went with this plan, then I believe the only joints really holding the stress of someone sitting on the bench, and the contents of the drawers, is the mortise-tenons described above in the side panels section -- would these joints be enough to support say 250-300 lbs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BSzdu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BSzdu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dowel joinery&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Bottom Shelf&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm open to suggestions on how to join the bottom shelf to the legs. The shelf will not hold a significant amount of weight (several pairs of shoes). My first thought is to chisel out a notch in the leg stiles at the four points of contact and glue the shelf into the recesses. I'd like to avoid using more material to support the shelf if possible to keep the bench look minimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/caTTa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/caTTa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom shelf points of contact&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7458" LastEditorUserId="7458" LastEditDate="2019-05-26T19:59:31.253" LastActivityDate="2019-05-27T14:47:43.043" Title="Need help with design of entryway bench joinery" Tags="|joinery|design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9631" CreationDate="2019-05-27T04:11:03.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fundamentally, I think you have a good plan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way I look at it is this: you have a 3/4&quot; thick hardwood plank, approximately 4' span, that can be well supported on both ends. This should be strong enough to hold up 300#. I'd make the tenons 1/2&quot; wide, rather than the typical rule of thirds, and as long as possible (like, 1-1/4&quot;). It's not impossible with these tenon dimensions, but it would be easier and stronger if you pushed the side panels a little further outward from the corner of the legs (1/2&quot; would be my pick.) If you don't feel like changing the design, offset the tenon by a bit so you have more substance at the inside corner of the leg. (Top tip: offset tenons are a pain.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The back panel is what'll keep the span from deflecting too much. I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; that it'll do the job, but you'll have to experiment while building. My best suggestion is to not build the drawers until you've built the carcase, so that you can add a stiffener to the junction of the top/back if needed. (Pocket screw or spline the center divider so that it can go in after the carcase is glued up.) Maybe you'll find that the front of the top deflects more than you'd like... then glue/screw a stiffener to the underside (behind the drawer faces) and change your drawer height to suit. Inset drawers are quite unforgiving, so you want this to be solid (or you want wide reveals around the drawers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speaking of the back panel, you have a problem with swiss cheesing the leg and having your tenons banging into one another. I don't know exactly how I'd approach this, as it's important to have good joinery at the back/leg junction to prevent racking of the entire structure. Maybe 3 long but not very tall tenons... maybe run the back tenons through the middle of the side tenons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;s&gt;Dowels to attach the top and bottom planks to the sides/back will help make the drawer box stiffer, so that's good.&lt;/s&gt; Chiseling notches for the base will be fine, though I'd pin them with a dowel in the long direction. (It can't hurt, in terms of improving the resistance to racking.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edits, to clarify and correct errors. (Thanks, @graphus, for the comments.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Graphus is absolutely correct that the sides shouldn't be joined to the hardwood top/bottom with dowels because of wood movement. (The back can still be joined like that.) Look to tabletop-apron joining methods for inspiration on how to allow for wood movement. (You'd also need a bit of a gap at the legs to prevent hardwood top/bottom expansion from breaking your leg assembly apart.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you opted for plywood/mdf, you'd do away with the expansion problem, but you'd have a weaker span, so would probably have to build stiffening under the front edge of the top. (That can easily be hidden behind the drawer fronts.) The center divider might help stiffen a tiny bit, but I don't think it'll help that much. (Strength won't be an issue on the lower shoe shelf.) If you used a ~3/4&quot;x3/4&quot; strip of hardwood to edge the front of the ply, that would stiffen it (and give you the option for a slight easing of the hard edge and make the edge more durable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Racking: imagine a square cabinet. Push sideways on the top corner. If the cabinet is stiff (usually because it has a back panel), it'll stay square. If it isn't stiff, the top will move sideways and the square becomes a parallelogram. Do that enough times and your cabinet will fall apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the location of the side panel relative to the legs... in my opinion, design drives engineering solutions, not the other way around (as long as you can come up with good engineering solutions!) So I wouldn't suggest moving the side panel if that's not what you wanted to do with it. But if you did move the side panel to be nearly flush with the leg (never exactly flush -- always plan a tiny reveal!), you could always pad out the hidden interior space with material to provide somewhere to attach your drawer hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastEditorUserId="503" LastEditDate="2019-05-27T14:47:43.043" LastActivityDate="2019-05-27T14:47:43.043" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9633" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-27T08:23:16.077" Score="2" ViewCount="3660" Body="&lt;p&gt;What natural oil is highly transparent and does not darken the wood? I want it for wooden toys for children. The goal is to protect the wood while keeping the wood grains visible or even make them more contrasting. I use mainly cherry wood or walnut. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far my best finding is coconut oil. But even that oil darkens the wood considerably. Linseed oil makes it dark and has too yellow-greenish pigment. Tung oil is way too dark and stinks. Rapeseed oil has not a pleasant scent either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, what natural healthy substance you can recommend for that goal - I do not have to stick to oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2072" LastActivityDate="2019-07-28T04:03:45.687" Title="Transparent oil or other substance which does not darken wood" Tags="|staining|oiling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9634" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10059" CreationDate="2019-05-27T20:28:14.807" Score="4" ViewCount="1830" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to treat some wood (raw pine) with a water-based class A flame retardant (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flameseal.com/products/wood/wood-seal-a/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Flameseal WSA&lt;/a&gt;), but also stain it with an oil based stain (garden variety Minwax or Varathane).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a bit unsure of compatibility, and the need for a barrier layer (e.g. shellac) if any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The FR datasheet states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This product may be used on most types of wood as long as penetration occurs. The product may be stained with a compatible stain or top coat after treatment. However, many stains and top coats are flammable and can adversely affect the flammability of the treated substrate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The priority is FR effectiveness over looks, but I'm concerned because the flame treatment is penetrating, then if I have to put a coat of shellac over top, I'm thinking any stain on top of that isn't going to penetrate well. I'm also concerned that, even worse, the stain will never really dry properly. The wood will be used on a ceiling so at least any finish doesn't have to stand up to heavy wear and tear, although if it stays sticky forever it will attract dirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my main question is: How can I apply both the water based FR and the oil based stain and get the most out of both?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My second question is, given the last sentence of that quote above, should I be considering a water-based stain or some special FR stain instead of my go-to oil stains? Does anybody have any experience with this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only actually need a class B rating (these are ASTM E84 ratings) so I do have a fair bit of leeway with reduced FR effectiveness, if it matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2019-05-28T15:47:25.687" LastActivityDate="2019-10-25T15:44:17.200" Title="Oil based stain over water based fire retardant" Tags="|finishing|staining|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1708" CreationDate="2019-05-28T07:09:45.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is an old question, but I recently had to solve this problem myself, so maybe I can help someone who finds this later. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used the SPAX screws, 1-1/4&quot; Long for 3/4&quot; stock. They are REAR PANEL screws, and they have a 3/8&quot; head. $3 for a box of 30, and it took me about 15 mins to modify them all. Not great time-wise, but batching them out helps, and it works in a pinch. I modified them in two stages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First took them to the bench grinder and ground a flat in the first couple threads as mentioned here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IrwTl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IrwTl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ground Flat&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;*&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I chucked them in my mini lathe (but probably would have been faster chucking them in a drill), and ran them against a rotary tool with a mounted grinding wheel of larger diameter then the screw head (3/4&quot; in my case) and ground the first few threads off to make the clearance on the shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C6Mgj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C6Mgj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Final Product&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7463" LastEditorUserId="7463" LastEditDate="2019-05-29T06:14:20.127" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T06:14:20.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9634" CreationDate="2019-05-28T15:15:22.433" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the link provided:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The product must penetrate the wood and be allowed to thoroughly dry&#xA;  to be effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The substrate must be able to absorb the water based chemical to&#xA;  provide fire protection. A simple guideline test is to place a few&#xA;  drops of water on the material – if the water is readily absorbed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It almost certainly needs to be applied to bare wood to be effective. It is not clear how the effectiveness would be impacted by applying over some finish, or how that might align or not with &quot;ASTM E84&quot;. But my guess is that, legally, not following the instructions to the letter means you don't get the liability coverage you want by using this stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your research, then, is what would be a suitable finish that would go over the treatment. This is the main question you are asking, I suppose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I note that many manufacturers sell &quot;non-flammable&quot; finishes if you search for those terms online. I take it to mean that, once cured, they do not contain any appreciable accelerants. This is probably most of the non-oil-based, polymerized water base finishes out there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, like I said, there are companies that specifically advertise non-flammable finishes. I bet you could short-list some of those and even ask them how they fare as a top-coat over the fire retardant you want to apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It occurs to me you can also look at the MSDS for any finish you are interested in and look at section 5, &quot;Fire AND Explosion Hazard&quot;. Most or all of those should be &quot;N/A&quot; or &quot;None&quot; for any non-flammable finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-05-29T14:49:40.800" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T14:49:40.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9639" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-29T03:53:37.650" Score="1" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any electric chainsaws out there powerful enough to run a Alaskan chainsaw mill? I am looking at the husky 3120xp but they are so expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7441" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2019-05-29T16:28:55.127" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T16:28:55.127" Title="Electric chainsaw mill" Tags="|chain-saw|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9640" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9643" CreationDate="2019-05-29T14:25:52.290" Score="8" ViewCount="7073" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have only recently begun experimenting with linseed oil and walnut oil finishes, after mainly using mineral oil. Today I read this &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2583/can-i-apply-polyurethane-over-oil-before-oil-cures&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt; and realized that my process may be flawed, because I am not pausing at all between applying linseed oil and then finishing with a carnauba wax topcoat.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drying_oil&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; reference about drying oils in the above-mentioned question, but there's no real indication of how to tell by touch/sight when the curing process has completed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now, my process is:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;* Scrape or sand the bowl to a medium grit, usually 220&lt;br&gt;&#xA;* Wipe gently with mineral spirits to remove dust in the grain and raise the remaining grain for finer grits of sandpaper&lt;br&gt;&#xA;* Wait 1-5 minutes for excess mineral spirits to dissipate/evaporate (sometimes I try to hasten this using puffs from my mini air compressor)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;* Sand up to my finishing grain, usually 600 grit and then 0000 steel wool&lt;br&gt;&#xA;* Wipe with linseed oil until surface is covered; use a fresh rag to remove excess&lt;br&gt;&#xA;* (&lt;em&gt;note,&lt;/em&gt; no pause between previous step and this) Apply carnauba wax and buff into surface  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...my question is, &lt;strong&gt;am I making a mistake here by not waiting for the linseed oil to cure before sealing it in with carnauba wax?&lt;/strong&gt; If so, &lt;strong&gt;how long should I wait / how will I tell when it's OK&lt;/strong&gt; to proceed to the final wax step?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any help/advice you can provide!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="292" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T19:49:13.993" Title="How can I determine when a linseed oil finish has cured?" Tags="|finishing|turning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9641" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9642" CreationDate="2019-05-30T05:57:28.067" Score="3" ViewCount="1902" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm refinishing some old speaker cabinets and noticed they were out of square. They're reasonably sturdy, but if I push the top sideways while holding the bottom (shear force), I can bend them square. In case it's relevant, they're just four boards nailed or screwed together... I can't tell for sure because the fasteners have been covered with wood filler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had my wife hold one of the cabinets square by pushing the top sideways while I installed angle brackets on two of the four corners. But when she let go, it immediately went back to not being square. In other words, the two angle brackets weren't strong enough to hold the cabinet in the desired position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how to get these cabinets square without disassembling them... try more brackets? I have plenty more and could put two in each corner. But I don't want to put a bunch of holes in the cabs if it's not likely to work. Or use beefier brackets? I'm not sure where to find something like that. Or maybe some other way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, if I have to disassemble them, I think I'd just leave them out-of-square and tell people they were designed that way to add to the tone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lhHXa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lhHXa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Out of square&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BIPcT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BIPcT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7470" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T09:44:26.463" Title="How to make out-of-square cabinet square?" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9641" CreationDate="2019-05-30T09:44:26.463" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're on the right track with respect to beefier brackets. Consider the square you've used to check the distortion. It is stronger in the flat plane than the tiny brackets you have. An exaggerated but appropriate bracket would be similar to a supported shelf bracket such as this Home Depot model:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bsCMy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bsCMy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;shelf bracket&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it is not a flat piece of steel bent at 90°, but has a reinforcing bulge that provides the necessary strength to keep things square. As noted, this is an exaggerated solution to serve as an assistant to head you in the right direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be a tension type of attachment. Consider that one of your diagonal dimensions is greater than the other. Attach a tab to those corners, stretch strong wire between the two and apply tension while forcing the cabinet to square. It would be advisable to create an opposite diagonal as well, to prevent the cabinet from going beyond the previous location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the DIY SE comes this image, not specifically of a cable brace, but representative of the concept:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2ZpYsm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2ZpYsm.png&quot; alt=&quot;diagonal brace&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hand-drawn arrow would be the cable to be tensioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, replace the cable with a solid brace cut to fit the corners. This would be used to force apart the diagonal of the smaller measurement until the cabinet is square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gussets are another method of squaring a frame. A triangle of thinner wood fastened to the frame at the back or front (if you are using speaker grille cloth) will force apart or pull together the adjacent pieces to a square position. Extending that concept even more would be to use a carefully cut square piece of wood that encloses all four sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of these suggestions will not work if there is a speaker in the way or another obstruction. They are provided to present options from which you can progress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T09:44:26.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9640" CreationDate="2019-05-30T10:50:04.890" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;am I making a mistake here by not waiting for the linseed oil to cure before sealing it in with carnauba wax?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think so, no. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A seemingly logical worry here is that the carnauba will seal the surface and prevent the BLO underneath from curing, but that's not a valid concern because a wax finish doesn't seal a surface off at all. It's far too thin for that, so it's highly porous to oxygen, just as it is to liquid water and water vapour&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;how long should I wait / how will I tell when it's OK to proceed to the final wax step? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's some personal interpretation/gut feeling in this for most people doing finishing. As mentioned in previous Answers and in my Comment above, in actual fact virtually nobody waits for their BLO application to cure before they proceed to the next step. Even if they say something like &quot;I leave it overnight to dry&quot; obviously 8-12 hours isn't nearly long enough for a coat of BLO to fully cure, but it 'dries' enough that they can proceed to the next step. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that really is the key thing after you apply BLO&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, has it cured enough for the next step to work right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back in 2014 or 2015 after reading about a quick one-day finish that started with oil and went on to shellac very quickly I started experimenting with applying shellac soon after oiling and I've done this regularly since, eventually reducing the wait to nothing. I've concurrently done other pieces where I left the oil overnight to 'dry', deliberately for comparison purposes. And there's no difference that I can determine in how the pieces finish or age subsequent to that&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I fully expect wax on top of oiled wood to work just as succesfully, and for there to be no noticeable difference between waiting zero minutes, five minutes or overnight before waxing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; This is equally true for both lacquers and varnishes at this coat thickness BTW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Including when you're doing a straight oil finish with nothing else added or put on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; I subsequently learned from old finishing guides that oiling just prior to shellac being applied is nothing new and has been done for nearly as long as shellac has been used in wood finishing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T10:50:04.890" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9644" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-31T08:25:22.287" Score="0" ViewCount="585" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to make a deck (~18m2) using oak railway half-sleepers (50mm thick, 200mm wide). They are fresh sawn, so they are pretty rough with splinters, etc. Is this a good idea at all? Can I sand them (with belt sander?) to a decent enough for deck finish? I've read somewhere that it's really hard to sand fresh sawn softwood - is it also the case with oak?&#xA;If it's possible, assuming I have a decent belt sander, how long sanding may take - would it be hours or days?&#xA;After sanding, what could I apply to improve the finish and make sure there are no splinters and the deck is &quot;nice to touch&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7472" LastActivityDate="2019-11-01T17:01:45.283" Title="Fresh sawn oak sleepers deck" Tags="|finishing|sanding|hardwood|oak|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9645" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-31T13:56:15.467" Score="3" ViewCount="407" Body="&lt;p&gt;What process would you go through to create this style of shutters, with the expectation that they're built for long-life? Specifically, I'm interested in how the back panel is put together: glue or no glue? Tongue and groove? And how the frame and moulding would be attached to the back panel. Looks to basically be a jazzed up version of a board-and-batten shutter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QUbbZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QUbbZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Fullsized door shutters&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4252" LastEditorUserId="4252" LastEditDate="2019-05-31T20:42:52.693" LastActivityDate="2019-05-31T20:42:52.693" Title="New Orleans style Exterior Wood Shutters" Tags="|joinery|wood-movement|water-protection|outdoor|panel|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9646" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-31T15:33:37.433" Score="4" ViewCount="245" Body="&lt;p&gt;A project description instructs to bore 1-3/4&quot; through-holes into a benchtop to insert round tenons from legs. (&quot;Herculaneum Workbench&quot;, book: Ingenious Mechanicks, Chapter VI, p106, by C. Schwarz)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought this might be doable with a hand brace, but I'm having difficulty sourcing an irwin/jennings bit of that size. I've found large flutes called &quot;ship augers&quot;, but they are designed for large power drills (based on the chuck shape required to fit them). In the auger kits that fit square-tapered bit braces, the largest auger in the kit is often smaller, at 1&quot; or 1-1/2&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What type of brace bit should be used for larger holes? Is boring large holes into a thick slab, with a hand brace, a bad idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2019-09-24T20:19:26.827" LastActivityDate="2019-09-25T07:35:03.690" Title="Are there square-taper drill bits larger than 1-1/2&quot; for hand braces?" Tags="|hand-tools|drill-bits|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9646" CreationDate="2019-05-31T16:35:35.463" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Irwin makes adjustable bits that allow holes up to 3&quot; in diameter to be bored with a hand brace.  There may be other options available on EBay.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.irwin.com/tools/drill-bits/hand-brace-adjustable-wood-bits&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is Irwin's web page for their versions of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GsTAA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GsTAA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Adjustable width bit&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2019-05-31T16:35:35.463" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9646" CreationDate="2019-06-01T07:39:03.397" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may find that you need a brace with a larger than normal sweep for boring a hole this size.  They were manufactured in various sizes.  A more common configuration for an auger of this diameter would be something like a barrel eye pattern.  They are still available new - here&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.oldtoolstore.co.uk/new-barrel-eye-augers-various-sizes-available-84-p.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.oldtoolstore.co.uk/new-barrel-eye-augers-various-sizes-available-84-p.asp&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage of these is the additional leverage given from the handle, and they're generally tough enough to drill through oak.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The alternative is a flat bit - simple and cheap.  Make up a block such that it has an angled face so the bit starts horizontal, and then clamp the block above your desired hole to ensure your bit will follow the correct direction.  Augers or flat bits are not good at starting at an angle, and need help.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also modern sawtooth bits which will do the job, using power tools, but again, for a typical splayed leg angle, they may need some alignment help, despite their accurate habits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Further information&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;An adjustable bit is weaker than a solid one.  You will find it very difficult to start it at an angle, as it makes contact at only one point of its sweep.  Further, if you are using beech or similar for your bench top, then I'd be very careful.  The lead screw is fat, and the cutter is weak.  A recipe for a broken bit.   An oak-beamed timber ark is still in existence with a part of one of my adjustable bits in it.  Of course, that's just one instance, but my spider senses were screaming 'bad idea' and they're usually to be relied on.  The urgency of completing the restoration, on site, in the woods, cost me the bit, and a return visit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also make your own scraper version to enlarge a hole, or you could go with square mortices - whatever Chris says in his book.  Back in whenever one would have access to a lathe of some sort for the legs, and they would be made to whatever large size auger was on hand.  Spoon bits on twenty-foot irons existed for boring out water pump timbers and for string on line.  Needs a skilled hand to use them of course.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7477" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-09-25T07:35:03.690" LastActivityDate="2019-09-25T07:35:03.690" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9613" CreationDate="2019-06-01T23:40:24.263" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to use hand tools only you don't have a lot of choices.  In the olden days you would most likely hew each log into a single timber (i.e. in building a mighty timber-framed barn, or a ship) rather than sawing it into planks.  See &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/Au1TbIyLcPU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Roy Underhill's TED talk&lt;/a&gt; for a brief demo of the technique.  If you really want to saw it into planks &lt;em&gt;with hand tools&lt;/em&gt; you need to get together with a friend and set up a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saw_pit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;saw pit&lt;/a&gt;.  Even a water-powered or &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/Q6FxG3ll-lw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wind-powered sawmill&lt;/a&gt; would seem to be outside of your requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to get into preparing your own lumber, you will want a powered sawmill of some kind.  The most common type is a &lt;strong&gt;bandsaw mill&lt;/strong&gt; and I won't mention any brand names but you can do a search for those.  They come in all kinds of sizes, some small enough to be portable, and essentially you're looking at a big gas-powered bandsaw that moves along a track.  You set the log down and move the bandsaw down the length of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have another in-between option and that's an &lt;strong&gt;Alaskan chainsaw mill&lt;/strong&gt;.  This is a kind of frame or rack that you bolt onto your chainsaw and can be used to saw flat planks off your fallen log right where it lies on the ground.  Looks like a lot more effort per board foot than a bandsaw mill, but if you only want to saw these two trees and no more, it might be a good inexpensive option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1040" LastEditorUserId="1040" LastEditDate="2019-06-12T15:43:33.697" LastActivityDate="2019-06-12T15:43:33.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9650" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9653" CreationDate="2019-06-02T05:16:30.740" Score="7" ViewCount="1043" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Problem&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to regrind new bevels on some old worn-out chisels, &lt;em&gt;without&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;using free-hand techniques, which I know how to do already.  After&#xA;some belabored research on grinding jigs, I purchased a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32975&amp;amp;cat=1,43072,45938&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Veritas® Basic Grinding Set&lt;/a&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/sup&gt; for use with my 6&quot; grinder.&#xA;However, the chisels I have vary in length, but most/all of them are&#xA;quite short.  In actual use, during setup, I very quickly ran into a&#xA;problem in the setup, where the short chisels do not fit the jig,&#xA;without pushing it forward so far as to then throw off all of the&#xA;dimensions that are required for the jig to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this just my not knowing how to properly set up the jig? Or, is it&#xA;due to the design assumption, by Veritas, that the jig would only be&#xA;used by chisels with long shanks?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Details&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ExGUa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ExGUa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Veritas Basic Grinding Set problem with short chisels 1.png&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YYAMC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YYAMC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Veritas Basic Grinding Set problem with short chisels 2.png&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MHbNi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MHbNi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Veritas Basic Grinding Set problem with short chisels 3.png&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tvLtM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tvLtM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Veritas Basic Grinding Set problem with short chisels 4.png&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jcXuu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jcXuu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Veritas Basic Grinding Set problem with short chisels 5.png&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Solution/Options&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some solutions I'm considering are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This is just my ignorance in setting up the tool. If so, what is&#xA;the proper setup?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Donate/sell the short chisels, and buy longer, higher quality&#xA;chisels that will fit the Veritas Grinding Jig. Definitely a&#xA;viable option, as I don't see any issues with the Veritas, if this&#xA;was by design.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Only return just the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32974&amp;amp;cat=1,43072,45938&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Veritas® Grinding Jig&lt;/a&gt;, keeping the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32973&amp;amp;cat=1,43072,45938&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Veritas® Grinder Tool Rest&lt;/a&gt;, and&#xA;build&lt;sup&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/sup&gt; my own jig to use with the Veritas® Grinder Tool Rest, using&#xA;suitable plywood/hardwood/aluminum/steel. Not too difficult, but I&#xA;don't want to spend the time on that unless someone can convince&#xA;me that it is the best option.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Return the entire Veritas set, guide plus jig, and research some&#xA;other vendor's sharpening guides and jigs. Feel free to comment on&#xA;guides you know will work with both long and short chisels plus&#xA;plane irons, but this is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; intended to be a tool&#xA;recommendation.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Return the entire Veritas set, guide plus jig, and&#xA;build&lt;sup&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/sup&gt; one from scratch. There are tons of videos&#xA;and design plans out there, but, this is a last resort as it is&#xA;just more time spent building tools to do woodworking, versus&#xA;well, just doing woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Update #1&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/9650/how-to-set-up-a-veritas-basic-grinding-jig-with-short-chisels#comment19803_9650&quot;&gt;Graphus's comment&lt;/a&gt; was:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1st and most important is, do the problem short chisels all need to be reground or do you just want to? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, and the grinder comes into play because I want to avoid manually regrinding them on diamond stones. Examining each of the chisels closely, I found that, over the years of abuse, I've honed and rehoned each of them to the point where the entire bevel needs to be reground. Basically, what should be a microbevel is actually a rather large macro bevel, on all of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will also consider the possibility of using my Extra Coarse diamond whetstones to do the coarse work. But from experience, that is a lot more work than using a grinder, that is, only if I can relatively quickly set up the chisel on a/the jig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/9650/how-to-set-up-a-veritas-basic-grinding-jig-with-short-chisels#comment19804_9650&quot;&gt;Graphus's comment&lt;/a&gt; was:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can the jig be moved inwards so that the grinding wheel comes forward, in fact just shy of kissing the rear of the slot? This strikes me as being the main setup change that could resolve most issues, but the grinder or the base of the jig could easily not allow it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could and did get close, but that turned out not to be viable, because the upper-left handle bumps up against the grinder housing.  I even tried moving that handle over to the right side, but it runs into the lower-right handle. See this photo:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m96TB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m96TB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Veritas Basic Grinding Set problem with short chisels 7.png&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also reconfirmed the problem I detailed in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YYAMC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;second image above&lt;/a&gt;: In order to adjust the chisel's angle of attack onto the grinding wheel, such that it meets 1/2 way up the bevel as per the instructions&lt;sup&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;, I indeed had to push the chisel so far forward, that the conical part of the back of the chisel abuts up against the jig top plane, tilting the chisel upward even more, throwing off the invariants the jig uses in those instructions. Thus, for these short chisels, I've concluded that jig part is not really applicable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So &quot;but the grinder or the base of the jig could easily not allow it&quot; is the case here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I neglected to show the condition of the chisels in the original question, so updating this now: This isn't a great photo as it doesn't really show the bevels with any degree of resolution, but you can kind of see the &quot;macrobevels&quot; from the light reflection, in this photo:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f1zme.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f1zme.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Veritas Basic Grinding Set problem with short chisels 6.png&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/sup&gt; There are many viable options, but my read of tons of&#xA;Amazon reviews led me repeatedly back to the Veritas as &quot;the&quot; best&#xA;here.  Of course, I have diamond whetstones of varying grits and a&#xA;honing wheel to do the final stropping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;Building tools is fun, and I have no problem with that&#xA;at all, but I do want to avoid needless &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/yak_shaving&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Yak Shaving&lt;/a&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/sup&gt; or&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.songsforteaching.com/folk/theresaholeinthebucket.php&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;filling holes in buckets requiring tools that require buckets that hold water&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;etc. etc.  It might have taken me just as much time to type up this SE post as it&#xA;would to have just built my own from scratch. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/sup&gt; Definition #2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A less useful activity done consciously or subconsciously to procrastinate about a larger but more useful task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/sup&gt; Click on the &quot;Instr&quot; link at the bottom of the page at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32973&amp;amp;cat=1,43072,45938&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Veritas® Grinder Tool Rest&lt;/a&gt;, second page in the PDF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7479" LastEditorUserId="7479" LastEditDate="2019-06-02T23:48:34.490" LastActivityDate="2019-06-03T08:35:52.150" Title="How to set up a Veritas Basic Grinding jig with short chisels" Tags="|sharpening|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9651" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9652" CreationDate="2019-06-02T14:58:16.573" Score="2" ViewCount="922" Body="&lt;p&gt;In 1993, my front porch was built using 2x6's for the decking, mounted perpendicular to the front of the house. After too many years of painting, replacing porch post's and rail balusters, I'm ready to go with composite, but know of two issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The composite boards are .94&quot; thick, but the 2X6's are 1.5&quot;. Where the boards go underneath the siding &quot;J&quot; channel, and the front door, there will be a .56&quot; gap. Do I add a piece of moulding, shim the joists under the decking, or some other idea?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I mount the new boards perpendicular like the old, the length will be 6' 2&quot;, resulting in some serious waste of composite. I looked at a neighbors porch and they ran one board on the outside parallel with the house, and that looked good. Or, if I tried to run all boards parallel with the house, now I need to replace/redesign the joists so they run in the correct position.&#xA;Thank you for any suggestions you have!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7480" LastActivityDate="2019-06-04T06:59:26.057" Title="Replace porch boards (2x6) with composite" Tags="|design|wood-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9651" CreationDate="2019-06-02T18:08:23.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could just stick a bit of trim underneath the J channel to make it look nice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To your length issue, I'd either try to source 20' lengths, or tweak the design to let you use 12'. You could do this by making a picture frame around the perimeter. (This would require a bit of blocking at the house and outside, but that's not hard to do.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2019-06-02T18:08:23.440" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9650" CreationDate="2019-06-03T08:35:52.150" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My initial main suggestions were going to be one of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;move the stand closer to the grinder, so that the wheel more fully engages with the slot created for it (&lt;strong&gt;note:&lt;/strong&gt; the wheel being very close to the edge of any tool rest is considered important for safety)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;insert a packing piece/shim to raise the chisel, allowing the handle end to clear of the rear edge of the rest.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the first (the more desirable option) turns out to be impossible for you my immediate thought was to do the opposite, taking advantage of the rest's ability to tilt in either direction. Many pictures of the Veritas Grinder Tool Rest are of it angled in this direction, although just now I could only find this small one on Highland Woodworking illustrating it set up with a grinder to show this most clearly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B7wYG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B7wYG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Veritas grinder rest, set back&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your last picture in the original post I think shows you have enough bench real estate to do this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't quite tell from the photos whether this will do enough for you now, but I think it might. Now because of the depth of the 'bed' of the rest this isn't a permanent solution since as your chisels get shorter the problem area will get closer and closer to the cutting edge. However for most people this kind of wear takes years (literally decades in the majority of cases) so while not permanent it shouldn't be considered a short-term fix by any means.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re. a real or perceived need to grind here's a progression of observations/realisations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bevels don't need to be pretty for the chisel to work.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bevels don't need to match across a set of chisels&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A shallower primary bevel AKA primary grind angle is largely a convenience for fast honing, it's not mainly for chisel performance.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hollow grinding isn't the norm everywhere so clearly it isn't a must-do.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bevels don't need to be at any fixed angle. A few degrees out either positive or negative has basically no effect [This is a key observation in relation to your worry about chisels being tapered in thickness and how this throws off the grinding angle.]&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If using a primary/secondary bevel sharpening routine, the primary bevel largely doesn't do any work. The cutting edge is responsible for &gt;95% of the way a chisel performs, 100% in the case of paring — two similar chisels, one with a 20° grind and another with a 30° grind will pare &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; the same if both are honed at the same angle&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Some woodworkers don't own a grinder and don't feel they're lacking something important by not having one&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some very related reading from previous Q&amp;amp;As here that may be of help:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/672/is-there-a-best-way-to-sharpen-an-edged-tool-like-a-chisel&quot;&gt;Is there a &amp;#39;best&amp;#39; way to sharpen an edged tool like a chisel?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2398/how-does-one-aggressively-sharpen-chisels-and-plane-irons-when-damaged/2401#2401&quot;&gt;How does one aggressively sharpen chisels and plane irons when damaged?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2076/what-criteria-would-want-me-to-bevel-my-chisel-in-a-certain-way/2079#2079&quot;&gt;What criteria would want me to bevel my chisel in a certain way&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3670/bench-grinder-tool-sharpener-or-sharpening-stone/3701#3701&quot;&gt;Bench grinder, tool sharpener or sharpening stone?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/6708/whats-a-quick-easy-home-made-honing-guide/6712#6712&quot;&gt;What&amp;#39;s a quick, easy home-made honing guide?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; In fact there are some good reasons to deliberately sharpen individual chisels in a set slightly differently, the most clear being for narrower chisels (1/4&quot; / 6mm and under especially) to be sharpened to a steeper angle to help with edge retention — because the concentration of force from a mallet blow is so much greater across a narrower cutting edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; The major difference in practice is said to be the speed at which you can hone them. But if your sharpening media isn't particularly slow this difference can be basically irrelevant, it's not even noticeable in some cases. In particular if you hone on diamonds. But even on oilstones (the least aggressive of the common honing surfaces and traditionally thought of as slow) I genuinely struggle to notice a difference although I'm not using any exotic alloys like A2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; I largely subscribe to this idea, for normal day-to-day use and related sharpening of tools a grinder is not a necessity and may never be missed until an edge is chipped accidentally (obviously a rare occurrence for most). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-06-03T08:35:52.150" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9654" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9662" CreationDate="2019-06-04T00:07:21.223" Score="9" ViewCount="576" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using diamond plates for sharpening bench chisels, and plane irons, and It's been difficult to keep them clean and performing to expectations. The instructions that come with the plates mention that only a couple passes should be necessary for honing -- which does not match &lt;em&gt;at all&lt;/em&gt; the performance I'm getting. It seems to take longer than it should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manufacturer recommends &lt;em&gt;water&lt;/em&gt; for cleaning, which for me doesn't seem to do much:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;we recommend water for use with the stones.  I have attached our use and care instructions for you.  I have heard of some customers who use Windex with no adverse effects but we recommend the water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sharpeners need to be cleaned regularly.  Often the fines/swarf which load onto the sharpener appear to look like rust.  After a thorough cleaning, the rust look should be gone.  Use Comet or Ajax and a toothbrush and give it a good scrubbing.  This is the method we recommend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please keep in mind that with diamond sharpeners you use very little pressure.  Just use the amount of pressure that you would use for shaving.  Used properly and cleaned thoroughly, the stones will last for years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem with using water, is that whatever I use to remove the water from the stones seems to leave lint particles of cloth or towels behind, which then roll under (or stick to) my sharpening guide's roller, or get in the way of the blade touching the stone. I've tried cloth towels, blue shop rags, J-Rags, and paper towels and they all seem to leave some sort of lint behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got into the habit of misting water on the plates during sharpening, but the water layer mostly just seems to prevent friction -- it makes the blades glide on top of the surface. I then started to periodically wipe the plates with a humid cloth instead of misting. But my plates just stay gray, despite attempts to brush them with a toothbrush (and water).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought my planes were relatively clean, until I tried a simple pencil eraser, almost accidentally, and I realized how much swarf was stuck in them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else can you recommend to keep the plates relatively clean, and avoid long episodes of wet cleaning (which always seems to be the last thing I want to take time for)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cokUI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cokUI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Eraser on the plates. The cross shows before/after contrast.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2019-06-12T17:56:17.820" Title="How to cleanup diamond plate efficiently?" Tags="|sharpening|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9655" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9663" CreationDate="2019-06-04T01:02:54.620" Score="4" ViewCount="3092" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some boards with voids in them that I'd like to stabilize with colored epoxy. I've done this on previous projects with varying amounts of success, so I'd like a little perspective on my approach for this project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, I want to avoid situations I've encountered in the past where the dyed epoxy seeps into the wood surrounding the void and creates a stain or blotch that is difficult to impossible to sand out. I've experienced this with boards that exhibit spongy or lightly-rotted areas around the void I'm filling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Truthfully, I've had better luck using sawdust as a colorant, but I suspect the person I'm building this for will want a colored epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any tricks to pouring dyed epoxy into voids without it creating blotches or stains?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2019-07-14T17:13:57.410" Title="How to properly use dye or sawdust to color epoxy for filling voids in wood" Tags="|epoxy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9656" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-04T04:45:05.207" Score="2" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;My father is a casual woodworker, and rarely deals with something as precise as fine joinery, and has been using his father's old table saw for his whole life. I believe it is a 1960s craftsmen with a cast-iron top. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though I think it is fair quality, age has taken its toll and the saw can be a pain to use. Part of the track for the fence has sunk and it does not operate smoothly, the bevel has been broken as long as I can remember, and truthfully it may just die entirely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The family is thinking about replacing it however, for the amount of use it would get, I think a cabinet or hybrid saw would be out of the budget. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are, would a new jobsite saw be a big step down from the current machine in quality? Would building a nice bench to house it and expand the top help rectify that? Or are we better off working with the old saw? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7482" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-06-04T10:20:12.350" LastActivityDate="2019-06-04T14:47:37.283" Title="Table saw, possible replacement queries" Tags="|table-saw|power-tools|tools|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9655" CreationDate="2019-06-04T06:36:14.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to consider what effect you're chasing.  Epoxy as a filler always looks 'foreign' because it has a different surface finish, and because it neither takes stains nor ages the same way as the surrounding timber.&#xA;So it will always show.&#xA;If you can't hide it, flaunt it. &#xA;Which is to say, use a contrasting colour(color) &#xA;If you're wanting to make an invisible repair, then consider patching in a piece of the same timber, and colouring it and hiding it as you would for a restoration.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Finally, if you must use the sawdust packing thing, I'd suggest you use something like pea glue and pack it to a putty like consistency i.e. very thick, with sawdust.  The final surface may be more sympathetic to the eventual finish. Certainly easier on your tools and less likely to leave an island if you're using abrasive. &#xA;Or, if you have to use epoxy, again, fill with sawdust until you think no more will go in, then add more.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had any 'blotching' previously, then you were possibly using an incompatible dye which was merely in suspension in the epoxy.  Epoxy colours(colors) don't leach out.  If you were localising it to areas of 'spongy' wood, then I'd say that you hadn't removed all the rotten material, and the epoxy followed the spongy structure.  Begin with a drop or two of clear epoxy to 'soak in' to the structure and kill the suction, then follow with  coloured(colored) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw an epoxy fill which incorporated some sparkly stuff - strangely effective - a black and sparkly void.  Now not a void.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7477" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2019-06-04T14:35:41.937" LastActivityDate="2019-06-04T14:35:41.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9656" CreationDate="2019-06-04T06:48:04.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whilst I don't know, I believe Craftsman made quality tools before the cost accountants got hold of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your questions are really centred on two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Safety&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Accuracy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IS it still electrically safe? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No aged or worn insulation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No-volt release switch present?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blade guard and slitting knife in place and working  (Though I know many Americans don't understand the part that slitters play in preventing kick back and blade binding) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It certainly won't have electrical braking to stop it within (whatever) number of seconds &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if it is accurate: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No play in the main bearings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No play in the fence alignments&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then it will be good to do another half century.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the job site saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If he's used to an iron table and the stability of a static table saw the site saw will seem flimsy.  You say &lt;em&gt;casual&lt;/em&gt; woodworker. What type of work is it used for?  Have a discussion; maybe a bandsaw would do the job for less footprint and be much more versatile as it is able to do everything a table saw does apart from cutting up sheet goods. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cut material may need a swipe over with a plane when a cut from an accurate and sharp circular saw wouldn't. But for a casual woodworker this is only a couple of more minutes and there is great satisfaction in producing wispy curly shavings without needing ear defenders. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bit of attention to the track and the bevel should fix it.  Or you could look at making a sled and discover a whole new world of saw capability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7477" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-06-04T14:47:37.283" LastActivityDate="2019-06-04T14:47:37.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9654" CreationDate="2019-06-04T06:54:21.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apart from aesthetics, why do you want them to be 'clean'? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All you need to do is remove the scarf to avoid them clogging.  A rinse over the sink at the end would do that. I'd just go with a good brushing under some running water. I'm not sure what effect fine metal particles will have on the water system and pipes though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7477" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2019-06-12T17:56:17.820" LastActivityDate="2019-06-12T17:56:17.820" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9651" CreationDate="2019-06-04T06:59:26.057" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about laying the boards to use least wastage, then laying some t&amp;amp;g on top perpendicularly, to look like the old ones.  You get the benefit of a modern substrate, and the look to match the original.  If not T&amp;amp;G, then just get half inch plain timber and nail it down to look like the originals.  It will take up the gap, and look way better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7477" LastActivityDate="2019-06-04T06:59:26.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9644" CreationDate="2019-06-04T07:07:56.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Green oak at 2 inches will move 'a lot' as it dries out.  If you constrain it with coach bolts or whatever, then it will split - it may well do that anyway, all dependant on the grain of the original.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Almost certainly it will twist, and that's almost impossible to stop.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;All is not lost though.  Sanding is out, it will just shred and clog the abrasive.  Don't let anyone tell you otherwise for green timber.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Th traditional way of finishing it would be to use a blade - an adze, or you could get away with a side axe, to leave a finished surface, then affix with a single bolt in the centre of each board.  They will likely curl and produce trip hazards but with your trusty adze you can trim those down when they appear.  In two or three years they'l have stabilised. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7477" LastActivityDate="2019-06-04T07:07:56.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9654" CreationDate="2019-06-04T10:16:32.043" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;In terms of the cleanliness of the plates, I think you're worrying about nothing. Most people's plates are a bit grey, and not a few are tinged with rust from the same level of steel residue rusting sightly (reasonably common if the user is using a waterbased honing fluid or plain water). Neither seem to affect the way the plates work, it's primarily an aesthetic issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can confirm whether it has any effect by carefully cleaning one half of any or all of your plates and then directly comparing cutting speed on the cleaned half versus the dingy half. My bet is that you won't be able to notice any difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that the main query you had is covered I wanted to touch on some of the incidentals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The manufacturer recommends water for cleaning, which for me doesn't seem to do much:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water and scrubbing with a brush &lt;em&gt;using Comet or Ajax&lt;/em&gt;. If you're using only water that'll certainly account for some of it :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My problem with using water, is that whatever I use to remove the water from the stones seems to leave lint particles of cloth or towels behind, which then roll under my guide's roller or get in the way of the blade touching the stone. I've used towels, blue shop rags, J-Rags, and paper towels and they all seem to leave lint behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has to be a common problem, I've certainly had it and I bet it's something that most have experienced. A few possible solutions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dab only, no wiping.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blow dry using compressed air.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dry off using a heat gun or hairdryer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Just leave them to air dry (what I used to do when I cleaned plates under a running tap).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I mostly do now is just brush off the swarf into a bin using a dustpan brush and stow the plates. Literally, that's it 99% of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the odd occasions I clean a plate down more thoroughly these days (and only on fine ones, never bother on my coarsest) I use a spirit-dampened wad of paper towel, wipe up with a clean paper towel and then brush off the worst of the inevitable lint with my hand. This doesn't remove everything but it removes enough that the plates work as they should. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I thought my planes were relatively clean, until I tried a simple pencil eraser, almost accidentally, and I realized how much swarf was stuck in them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind this residue went unnoticed because it's so fine. Even on the finest plates it could be composed of particles &lt;em&gt;way&lt;/em&gt; smaller than the grit adhered to the surface, and as a result will have essentially zero impact on abrasion since it's just the peaks of the abrasive particles that do any work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only when the valleys between grit particles are completely full of swarf is cutting speed severely reduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The instructions that come with the plates mention that only a couple passes should be necessary for honing -- which does not match at all the performance I'm getting. It seems to take longer than it should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't be sure but their instructions may be largely geared to knife sharpening, and few knives are as hard as even a half decent plane iron or chisel. A great many are significantly softer, most kitchen knives being a clear example. And the included angle at the edge may be lower as well (the edge is thinner). Combine the two factors and we're looking at two very different honing scenarios.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I know they specifically say you should use light pressure, the quote you posted includes this advice. But IME it's perfectly fine to press harder&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. Not &lt;em&gt;hard&lt;/em&gt; (although I've done that) but certainly harder than I think they're suggesting&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pressing a little harder isn't just acceptable from what I've experienced using the diamond plates I have, it's the only way to get results in what I at least consider a reasonable amount of time — my goal being for day-to-day honing to take maybe three minutes and ideally less. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously this means I'm not doing an excessive number of passes, but &quot;a couple&quot; is an exaggeration for me. Although five may be enough to raise a burr you can feel I tend to do about 10 back-and-forth passes (20 strokes total) to be sure I'm removing the entire of the wear bevel. &lt;em&gt;For routine honing this is just on my finest plate.&lt;/em&gt; Diamonds cut fast so there's no need for anything coarser beforehand. I then strop and I'm done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; if any of your tools are particularly hard or are made from a wear-resistant modern alloy like A2 you have to expect that all sharpening and honing jobs will take longer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; I've used diamond plates off and on for over 10 years and more recently (last couple of years) I've used them almost exclusively. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; There's obviously some subjectivity in what constitutes reasonable and hard pressure.... just as there is with shaving pressure. I have always shaved using safety razors and I would presume this means I can press a lot harder than someone using a cut-throat can get away with!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-06-05T07:32:26.183" LastActivityDate="2019-06-05T07:32:26.183" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9655" CreationDate="2019-06-04T11:10:23.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Basically, I want to avoid situations I've encountered in the past where the dyed epoxy seeps into the wood surrounding the void and creates a stain or blotch that is difficult to impossible to sand out. &lt;strong&gt;I've experienced this with boards that exhibit spongy or lightly-rotted areas around the void I'm filling.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part I've bolded is the main issue here, other than that staining of surrounding wood shouldn't be a big problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can avoid using wood with punky areas that'll help a lot! Although obviously this isn't always possible and there are some spectacular boards which have some punky wood present that it would be a shame not to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are there any tricks to pouring dyed epoxy into voids without it creating blotches or stains?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no guarantee these will prevent the problem 100% every time but some of the following should be of help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply clear epoxy to the problem areas before using the coloured epoxy. The tinted epoxy goes on after the clear epoxy has set but before it has fully cured so it doesn't add a huge delay.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brush on a coat of shellac as above. This has the advantage that you can proceed almost immediately because shellac dries so quickly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lightly finish the surface of the surrounding area to help prevent staining from the top down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use pigments instead of dyes* to colour your epoxy (either in dry form or by using paints, which are coloured with pigments). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would switch to tinting with pigment or paint regardless of whether any of the top three things is also done (although personally I would do both if erring on the side of caution). Another good reason to prefer using pigments is that they are much more resistant to fading than dyes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Truthfully, I've had better luck using sawdust as a colorant&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing wrong with that IMO if the effect is deliberate and what you're after. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to mention you can do both, tint and fill the epoxy. I do this frequently to tweak the colour of wood-dust fills since I don't have a large enough stock of fine sanding dusts to suit every requirement. Most frequently I'll do this to make a mix darker but sometimes need to shift the mix slightly towards yellow or orange/red as suits the wood in question. Very occasionally I'll add a dab of white to lighten a mix slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was asked to add a bit on the following from a Comment on a duplicate Question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note on light stability&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Most dyes aren't lightfast, the majority will fade or alter colouring in some other way (shifting hue or going duller) to some degree with light exposure. This is an everyday issue with dyes used to stain wood because so little dye is involved and it sits in a shallow layer of the surface fibres of the wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When used to colour an epoxy fill however this same degree of sensitivity to light may or may not be something to worry about. With deeper fills on interior projects the total amount of dye present and the depth to which it extends mean there can be minimal colour change over time, especially since interiors are generally a low-UV environment. But if used for a shallow fill, even more so for something of thin section (light can get to it from two sides), and especially for anything that will be positioned near a window this is something to bear in mind. In any of these situations you may want to go a different way to help ensure colour stability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pigments on the other hand are now generally light stable. While you usually won't be able to find out what pigment or pigments were used in a paint this will be particularly the case in those intended for exterior use. When buying pigments in dry form there should be some sort of lightfastness rating so here you can select for this property. In addition to being more lightfast themselves pigments provide a secondary benefit as they help protect the surrounding epoxy from the UV by absorbing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*You refer to dyed epoxy throughout and I'm presuming you're using the term literally. If you switch to using pigments some of this problem will go away because although pigments are small particles, some very tiny, dye is on a totally different scale — individual molecules. This is why we get much better penetration from wood dyes than many stains, which are pigment-based (although some stains use a mixture).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-07-14T17:13:57.410" LastActivityDate="2019-07-14T17:13:57.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9644" CreationDate="2019-06-04T15:36:59.217" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stack, sticker, and end seal this lumber until it is well-seasoned. Then take it down to nominal dimensions. It is going to move a lot if you install it green. Decks are enough work as it is; don't borrow further trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you are going to use some sort of finish to help with the weathering (and even though this is probably so-called &quot;white&quot; oak, it would benefit from some sort of finish for longer useful life) the moisture content matters as well. Unless you are going to roll on the relatively toxic anti-rot stuff, which I think can go on green wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or buy pressure treated decking already dimensioned for easy installation from your local and use that, keeping the seasoned oak for other parts of the deck construction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2019-06-04T15:36:59.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9618" CreationDate="2019-06-04T16:48:15.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Per the following testing of dowels of various diameters in double shear at Purdue. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.agriculture.purdue.edu/fnr/faculty/eckelman/pdf/fpj57(5)60-64.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.agriculture.purdue.edu/fnr/faculty/eckelman/pdf/fpj57(5)60-64.pdf&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The smallest dowel tested was a 1.5&quot; softwood dowel. Your 1&quot; dowel would be approximately 1/3 the strength of the 1.5&quot; dowels. Their weakest dowel had a safe load of 3,200# with an ultimate failure load of 5,000 - 6,000#. Therefore your safe load will probably be more than 1,000# and almost twice that before it would actually fail. They also point out that any failure will be gradual, not sudden, with lots of noises to let you know you have a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I am only giving you the capacity of the dowel. I did not look at the strength of the 4x4 posts. But off the top of my head I think they should be ample.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1590" LastActivityDate="2019-06-04T16:48:15.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9666" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9668" CreationDate="2019-06-04T18:11:35.167" Score="3" ViewCount="2237" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to hollow-out the backside of a mantle board, and I'm trying to think of the best way to do it. I have various tools at my disposal, or can procure a needed tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purpose is to hide various cords. Ideally, the hollowed section would be 4-6&quot; deep and not noticeable from the sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current thinking is to use a handheld plunge router with a bit at least 4&quot; long and many shallow passes. Would a spiral upcut bit be best? Or would a double flute bit be better? Perhaps the router is the wrong way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best tool (and cutting attachment) for this task?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1248" LastActivityDate="2019-06-08T13:59:56.940" Title="Best way to hollow-out mantle (at least 4&quot; deep)" Tags="|router|router-bit|mortise-and-tenon|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9666" CreationDate="2019-06-04T18:30:09.613" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might consider passing it along a table saw with the blade set to protrude 4&quot; from the reference surface (if the blade is big enough for that!).  Make several cuts as long as you want the hollowed out area to be, up to an inch apart, and use a big chisel and mallet to chisel out the waste pieces in between the cuts.  The challenge would be to make it invisible from the sides.  If the mantel piece has any molding or trim pieces on the ends which could be removed and re-attached later, that would make it easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1040" LastActivityDate="2019-06-04T18:30:09.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9666" CreationDate="2019-06-04T20:03:42.683" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the hollow back doesn't need to be perfect, use a Forstner bit and cut overlapping holes in it to get the desired depth.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also treat it like a big bandsaw box, and cut all of the sides off, and glue them back together.  The glue line on a clean cut with the grain is hardly noticeable.  You could also just build a new mantle as a hollow box and cut up the existing one and use it as veneer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2019-06-04T20:03:42.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9669" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-05T09:42:32.720" Score="7" ViewCount="1395" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on a design for a hardwood door that would feature square, pyramidal panels. In masonry such shapes are called &quot;diamonds&quot;. The question is how to shape the panels and do the joinery into the structural members of the door. I have shown the section and elevation below with approximate measurements:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D1HZO.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D1HZO.png&quot; alt=&quot;pyramidal panel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trying to cut the panels out of a single slab of 2&quot; board has challenges, but on the other hand trying to make them in pieces also has complexities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2019-06-05T20:30:17.790" Title="How to create a pyramidal panel for a door?" Tags="|joinery|door|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9669" CreationDate="2019-06-05T11:54:22.713" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The traditional way to do this, is to have the central diamond be on piece of wood, and the raised portions around the edge be a separate frame.  The frame is held together with mortise and tenon joints, and has a groove into which the central panel fits.  The central panel is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; glued in place, to allow for expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, the central panel is a constant thickness over &lt;em&gt;most&lt;/em&gt; of it's width - it's just the edges that are cut back.  You can do this with a spindle moulder.  For this design though, I think you would want a spindle-moulder to do the edges, and then mount the piece in a jig, and feed it through a planer-thicknesser.  You'll have to feed it through once for each plane of the diamond - so eight times in all.  Getting the jig right is going to be fiddly!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1646" LastActivityDate="2019-06-05T11:54:22.713" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9669" CreationDate="2019-06-05T19:38:03.870" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;One option if you don't mind a little math, careful blade height adjustments, and using a hand plane: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Calculate the depth at a series of distances from the center of the pyramid, say every quarter inch.  Set a table saw blade height (carefully) to that depth and cut concentric squares around the pyramid at each corresponding depth.  Make sure the inside of the kerf (from the center) is aligned to the calculated position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, using a shoulder plane, remove the remaining ridges to the point where the cuts disappear and then flatten the angled surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a bit of work but with a nice sharp plane it will go faster that you might imagine.  A second plane with a more aggressive setting could help with removing the bulk.  One problem here will be going across the grain on two of the sides depending on the species of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7487" LastActivityDate="2019-06-05T19:38:03.870" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9669" CreationDate="2019-06-05T20:30:17.790" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The diamond piece could be cut with a router planing jig - basically, a pair of rails that sit on your work table, along with a sled that your router is mounted to. The sled rides on the rails, which allows the cutter to move along a 2-D plane a fixed height above the work table. It's almost like an upside-down router table, in the sense that your workpiece is fixed and your router is moving in relationship to it with the relationship defined by the rails. There are many examples available on google or youtube if you're unfamiliar - starting to use router planing jigs a few years ago has really changed the way I do many woodworking operations for shaped panels like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your workpiece would be clamped between the rails, with a shim underneath one edge to raise that edge up off the work surface and set the angle at which you want to cut the facets. The shim could be screwed or clamped to the work table in a fixed position, which would allow you to turn the workpiece through 90 degrees and clamp it back down to cut each of the 4 facets. Then, double the height of the shim, flip the piece over, and cut the 4 facets on the opposite side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7488" LastActivityDate="2019-06-05T20:30:17.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9673" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9674" CreationDate="2019-06-06T23:26:05.253" Score="3" ViewCount="1163" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I best hide these screw heads? Wood filler probably will crack...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hRuPH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hRuPH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastActivityDate="2019-06-07T13:59:23.507" Title="Best way to hide counter sunk screws" Tags="|technique|screws|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9673" CreationDate="2019-06-07T00:30:35.767" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider to remove the screws and perform a counterbore or use a forstner bit to the depth of the screw head. Select the diameter to match your selected wood plug diameter. Return the screw, glue in the plug, sand the plug flush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V5twI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V5twI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;counterbore bits&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can purchase a wood plug cutter, sort of a hole saw without a center drill, and cut your plugs from the same wood, for a better appearance match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bMDPx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bMDPx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;wood plug cutters&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2019-06-07T00:30:35.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9673" CreationDate="2019-06-07T13:59:23.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Places like Lee Valley, et al, sell hardwood &quot;buttons&quot; or &quot;plugs&quot;. For shallow holes there are even stick-on veneers, but it looks like you need a proper hardwood plug, either store-bought or home-made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2019-06-07T13:59:23.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9666" CreationDate="2019-06-08T13:59:56.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd use a handheld circular saw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clamp the workpiece securely. Plunge at one end, run full depth all the way along. Stop before the end. Repeat, on ~1/2&quot; spacing. Clean out the mess with a chisel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You won't get 4&quot; (unless you find a saw with a 10&quot; blade), but you should get a decent enough depth for cords.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;** When plunging, do not be tempted to drag the saw backwards to get to your starting line. If you missed the mark, plunge again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2019-06-08T13:59:56.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9678" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-09T12:55:51.280" Score="2" ViewCount="164" Body="&lt;p&gt;About a month ago I built and painted an outside bar. I used wood planks from Lowe’s for the top and shelf. I sanded, painted, and then used poly acrylic on the top and shelf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the sap is coming through at the knots and changing the color of my paint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to fix this problem without having to strip it back down to the wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7493" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-11-21T19:41:42.187" LastActivityDate="2019-11-21T19:41:42.187" Title="Sap problem on the top and shelf of an outside bar" Tags="|tabletop|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9679" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9680" CreationDate="2019-06-09T18:57:20.707" Score="3" ViewCount="394" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a project where I will be screwing some 11&quot; strips of 3/8th flat steel (this one right here &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-4-ft-x-2-in-Hot-Rolled-Weldable-Steel-Slotted-Metal-Flat-Bar/3024806&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-4-ft-x-2-in-Hot-Rolled-Weldable-Steel-Slotted-Metal-Flat-Bar/3024806&lt;/a&gt;) into a 4x4, like so &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C9kSZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C9kSZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Image is a top view (looking down on it, the 4x4 will be stretched out horizontally, the red is the screws location.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SIDE VIEW BELOW&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rc5Mu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rc5Mu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of screws do I use? I would like them to lay flush against the steel flats too if possible. Heavy duty aswell that can handle strain of weight on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance this is essentially going to be acting like a bench. However it should be able to comfortably be able to hold 700lbs without the screws stripping out or breaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The force of the weight will be will be evenly distributed for the most part. the weight will be pushing downwards, and at times slanted as image below will depict.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rEhHf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rEhHf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sFCJP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sFCJP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7446" LastEditorUserId="7446" LastEditDate="2019-06-10T04:44:04.007" LastActivityDate="2019-06-10T20:13:48.800" Title="What Screw Should I Use For Fasten a 3/8th Steel Flat To A 4x4?" Tags="|wood|screws|fasteners|weight-capacity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9679" CreationDate="2019-06-10T07:54:57.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I would like them to lay flush against the steel flats &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will be the role of countersinks you make in the steel rather than determining what screw to use. Note however that if you decided to use coach screws (which are essentially a type of bolt) they can't be made flush because the head is too large and doesn't have a countersink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What kind of screws do I use? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if you were hoping for a specific recommendation (screw X made by company Y) here or general guidance but apart from the first being off-topic for SE I don't think you need to overthink this as individual screws are very strong against shear forces, and their resistance to withdrawal even from softwoods can be nearly unbelievably high*. Paired or combined in higher numbers (see below) they distribute the force applied so each one is required to do less work anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All you really need is general guidance which can be neatly summarised by: don't use skinny, short screws. Which you probably wouldn't have done anyway :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use beefier screws, with coarser threads, that are as long as the job can allow and you should easily exceed the strength you need here. Do remember that the screws should go into pre-drilled pilot holes in the 4x4s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I read your diagrams it appears the steel strips will be inset into the surface of the 4x4s, if this is the case it will add &lt;em&gt;hugely&lt;/em&gt; to the robustness of what you're building.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If in doubt, use more screws&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I presume there's nothing forcing you to use only two screws per steel strip, by adding only one extra you reduce the load on each screw by a noticeable amount. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If still in doubt, use glue as well&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There are a handful of adhesives you could use here, including some of the newer construction/marine adhesives (urethanes &amp;amp; silicones) and epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may not be the strongest option any more but epoxy allows for easier reversibility than some other choices should you ever want to take this apart and epoxies are available everywhere. Some installation tips follow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heavily abrade the steel and if you're not insetting the steel into the wood as I surmised above freshly sand the surface of the 4x4 where the two overlap. Apply your epoxy generously, screw the steel into place, wipe up your squeeze-out and then just leave the thing to rest undisturbed for the glue to cure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Just a &lt;em&gt;half-inch&lt;/em&gt; screw can take 100 pounds or more to tear free from softwood! For a 1&quot; screw this about doubles, but with a 2&quot; screw it can go up by a factor of five or six. Source: &lt;strong&gt;The Holding Power of Wood Screws&lt;/strong&gt;, Bureau of Standards, 1926.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-06-10T20:13:48.800" LastActivityDate="2019-06-10T20:13:48.800" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9678" CreationDate="2019-06-10T19:59:13.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dewaxed shellac is the traditional way of sealing knots, sap veins, ... and has worked for me Bulls Eye Clear Shellac is one of many brands, brush or in a spray can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2019-06-10T19:59:13.937" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9682" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14509" CreationDate="2019-06-11T13:39:03.267" Score="11" ViewCount="10307" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hold a small (15qm) Wood Shop  at the basement, where I have the classic power tools like: a miter saw, a bench saw and a wood drill press and some other hand power tools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a real issue with the noise, the power tools are too loud and the neighbors are irritated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I was looking into tools that are silent, but since they are expensive and hard to find, and I think it would be easier to soundproof the whole room or put the tools in a soundproof box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My loudest tool has 108db(A) and produces frequencies from 400Hz to 16kHz, for that I have considered using inflammable resistant acoustic foam. But before I start spending money, time and research, I wish to ask first : &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have any of you had to soundproof a wood shop? what solution is effective if so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7496" LastEditorUserId="7496" LastEditDate="2019-06-11T22:32:03.287" LastActivityDate="2023-03-24T16:45:38.527" Title="How to soundproof the Wood Shop?" Tags="|safety|power-tools|shop|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9682" CreationDate="2019-06-11T14:25:07.123" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The advice for a shop is pretty much the same as for any loud activity. There is a lot of research you can do on the internet for music studios, for example, that will apply. So, this is not specific to woodworking&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first question is what is your budget and how much work do you want to do? Ideally you would physically separate the walls from the floor, and the ceiling from the walls. This is a pretty tall order, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important thing to do is block as much air movement between the inside and the outside. Then you install sound blocking material between the basement and the rest of the house. The notion is that there is no single magic bullet; the only real solution is mitigation &lt;em&gt;in depth&lt;/em&gt; by using multiple sound mitigation techniques together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A serious modest approach would be something like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clear all your tools from the walls and remove everything covering the walls and ceiling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy a case or three of acoustic sealant, and fill &lt;em&gt;every&lt;/em&gt; crack and hole that allows air movement between the shop and the rest of the world. You cannot overdo this step, and no hole or void is too small to consider.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy lots of sound insulation batts, or hire a firm to install blown or spray insulation into all the voids, making sure to get into every corner and nook.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cover with sound block rating wall covering of some sort, making sure to (in most cases) use multiple layers and follow the installation process for overlaps, joins, and things like outlets and light switches.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace all doors and windows if necessary, and replace the air-seal around them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will probably have to separate the HVAC systems so the shop has its own heating and cooling, unless the rest of the house is ok with the sound coming through hot or cold air ducts. If you have non-ducted heating/cooling you already have a head-start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A non-modest approach is to do all that, but start by building floating stud walls and ceiling that decouples the interior walls from the outside as much as possible, including (ideally) installing a floating floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cheap-and-cheerful approach is to air-seal as best you can, and then use two layers of drywall, installing acoustically rated batt insulation in any significant voids. Seal the doors and windows (or cover them in semi-permanent baffling) and either put up with sound going through the ducts, or stuff them with some sort of safe baffling while you are in the shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; That being said, I think wood shops are easier for sound management because at least we don't have to deal with as many high-energy low frequencies. This means that full surface separation as discussed is &lt;em&gt;probably&lt;/em&gt; not strictly necessary except in the most specific cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-06-12T20:57:49.827" LastActivityDate="2019-06-12T20:57:49.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9682" CreationDate="2019-06-12T00:05:25.550" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer provided by jdv is excellent advice and addresses sound transmission through air. Plus, as i mentioned in a comment, the mass of masonry walls and the earth will eliminate most sound transmission below grade. There may also be structural transmission to consider. If you have an interior surface that directly contacts the structural wall then sound vibrations will also be absorbed by the interior surface and transmitted through the studs or masonry.  If there is exterior masonry walls, then the mass of the wall should be adequate to absorb shop sound. If it is studs then the sound may be traveling through the structure. The only way to significantly reduce that noise is to provide a second wall surface on the interior that is independent of the exterior wall. It should be have minimum contact with the exterior wall and be filled with insulation to reduce air transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But something sounds a bit peculiar.  I would expect that conventional wood framing (or masonry) of an exterior wall  should be adequate to eliminate most noise in a short distance from your home.  It sounds like there could be a duct or other opening venting to the outside that is allowing more direct travel for the sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2019-06-12T00:05:25.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9685" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-12T08:25:17.743" Score="1" ViewCount="213" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just purchased an old Tyzack spindle moulder (shaper) and need some help please.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm new to carpentry and have never used a spindle moulder before. I am in need of a block and cutters. I believe the Bore size is 22mm but most blocks I’ve come across are 30mm (as far as I can tell).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way of changing the machine to take 30mm or can you point me in the right direction for acquiring a 22mm bore block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm living in the UK, if that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some images of the machine, I have also posted the plates but it doesn’t really give much info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;Josh&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8PxSd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8PxSd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9a0tD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9a0tD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/45f9Q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/45f9Q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image 3&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HcMSB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HcMSB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image 4&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7498" LastEditorUserId="7498" LastEditDate="2019-06-14T12:24:01.777" LastActivityDate="2020-06-06T21:19:33.377" Title="Spindle moulder blocks and cutters" Tags="|joinery|router|power-tools|cutting|router-table|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9686" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9823" CreationDate="2019-06-12T09:21:02.670" Score="4" ViewCount="477" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first time working with stains and I've run into a bit of an issue. I am using timber protect oil based stains in Walnut colour on pine plywood and I misjudged my coverage area with my initial purchase and had to go back for a second tin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem is that despite buying the same product the result between the two finishes is very different (see the pictures below). After opening the second can I realised the first can was too thick to be normal. I went ahead with finishing the stain hoping things would be ok but they have turned out very differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How can I fix this so that the colours match?&lt;/strong&gt; Ideally I would like to match to the second can as it looks better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stain Can:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V9EXxm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V9EXxm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Stain can&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First can on the right, new can on the left:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OGezL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OGezL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;New on left, first on right&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New stain on top, first stain on the bottom:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7XeXs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7XeXs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;new stain ontop of old stain&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7500" LastActivityDate="2019-07-23T02:04:59.163" Title="Problem with different tins of the same stain" Tags="|staining|plywood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9686" CreationDate="2019-06-12T15:14:18.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;(This feels like there is already Q&amp;amp;A about this, but I cannot find it. It might be hidden in a comment or one of the many good Answers by @Graphus on  finishing.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The comment is on the right track: follow the instructions on the tin for applying another layer to &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; pieces, possibly thinning it out a bit and being careful to apply evenly (again, read the instructions).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember to stir the finish gently as you apply this final coat to keep the pigments suspended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-06-13T14:54:37.797" LastActivityDate="2019-06-13T14:54:37.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9688" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9693" CreationDate="2019-06-12T18:37:46.503" Score="2" ViewCount="8285" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems like a basic question but I haven't really been able to find the answer anywhere. I understand that it's used to restore scratched up wood... I've seen pictures and videos of it in use. But what is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it a stain that darkens scratches so that they match the rest of the wood, or does it build up and fill in scratches? I also don't really understand why some people say it needs to be reapplied occasionally. Can you put a finish on top to prevent that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7470" LastActivityDate="2020-03-15T22:19:12.393" Title="What is Old English Scratch Cover?" Tags="|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9688" CreationDate="2019-06-12T19:01:21.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It works as a stain, but it also has multiple ingredients that make things shiny so it looks polished. I didn't see anything in this that acted as a real protective coat; it would repel water droplets, but not dings like a poly or lacquer would.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A permanent solutions would be to use a matching stain and then polyurethane. But, considering that wood needs polished occasionally for dust removal, it might be easier to use a product like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3759" LastActivityDate="2019-06-12T19:01:21.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9690" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-12T19:56:03.050" Score="0" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have hand made one drum. I carved it from a live poplar tree. When finished it stood 16&quot; tall with a drum head greater than 10&quot;, but not much. I hand sanded it inside and out after I burned the center out. I hand carved some animals in the side like a wolf and a brown bear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering is there a way I can do this on a lathe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I turn a log if it has been hollowed out? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What tools will I need? (besides a good lathe)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can this drum be put on a lathe to clean the inside?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have a new project that is also poplar that is 10&quot; high with a 10.5&quot; base. Base wall is about 1.5&quot; thick with the head walls being .25&quot; thick/1.00&quot; tall they widen out to base thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Could a lathe be used to thin the out side walls?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How would this be done? &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I previously used fire and chisel to clean out the center. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trees don't ever grow straight or round so I my not always be &quot;DEAD CENTER&quot; but I feel I get close. That's why one side of the drum wall is a little thicker then the rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is my concern: can I turn drums on a lathe even if it is not true center? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I enjoy drilling the first fire hole and burning my drum hollow but I want a faster and cleaner outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7501" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2019-06-17T19:38:09.590" LastActivityDate="2019-06-17T19:38:09.590" Title="how to make a new drum" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2019-06-19T13:34:39.607" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9688" CreationDate="2019-06-13T08:10:40.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Scratch-cover products vary, but in general they are a very fluid combination stain and finish&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. They may be intended to only reduce the visibility of scratches, not repair them, although some are made to do both jobs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;some people say it needs to be reapplied occasionally. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That would seem to indicate that this one specifically is not made to be a drying product, i.e. it's the first type described above. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can see why the manufacturers might do this to make it easier for the average homeowner to use. But it doesn't make for the ideal product since it will remain permanently wet, meaning any scratches, dings and scrapes it is applied to would be dust magnets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can you put a finish on top to prevent that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory you might but safely, no. Any non-drying product could undermine finish put over it, meaning it could peel, bubble or flake off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible that shellac could successfully seal it off and then allow further finishing with shellac, varnish or lacquer, but no guarantees. And if you're going to be using them anyway why bother with the scratch-cover stuff in the first place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to my mind now that things like coloured varnishes and &quot;gel stain&quot; (jellied coloured varnish) are widely available scratch-cover products are obsolete as far as woodworkers need be concerned. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other options for repairing scratches through darker finish that reveal pale wood are to locally stain the scratches&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, then carefully build up finish layer by layer, feathering out and flattening as needed according to the original finish thickness and the nature of the damage. You can also use shellac- or wax-based repair sticks, which are a very old-school method for doing colour repairs but still available and remain a viable way to do the job in some cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's tricky work to get a nearly seamless repair, but possible, and just getting the colour right goes a long way to reducing the visibility. &lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; when doing scratch repairs always aim to get an exact colour match or slightly darker, never lighter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; I use the word finish in the broadest sense of the word here, shiny stuff, since anything that doesn't dry shouldn't be considered a finish per se.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Using touch-up markers, applying stain with a fine pointed brush or by flooding and wiping, or using dry pigments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-06-13T08:10:40.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9694" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-13T20:26:40.887" Score="2" ViewCount="1322" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm putting together a KD Frames poplar bed frame. I've already stained it with Minwax Wood Stain (I really wanted a black wooden look) but I'm unsure how to finish it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I bought the stain at Ace hardware, they suggested matte Minwax Polycrylic, but I'm not convinced that's the best option. I'm perfectly happy with the look of the wood as it is currently, but I understand that I need to protect the wood somehow. Is there a way to maintain this kind of raw wood look and still seal the wood from damage? And why is that necessary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7504" LastActivityDate="2022-04-19T15:07:50.703" Title="Sealing a Stained Poplar Bed Frame" Tags="|finishing|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2022-04-20T23:06:36.270" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9694" CreationDate="2019-06-14T01:17:01.883" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually add a finish to seal the wood but it would probably be fine with out any other finish sense it will not likely be subject to hard use or abuse. But I would use something like a wipe on poly as they provide a very thin and fairly durable finish, if the satin finish is to glossy it can be rubbed with an fine abrasive pad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2019-06-14T01:17:01.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9697" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-14T16:45:37.787" Score="4" ViewCount="171" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A5FT1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have solid poplar floors with wood plugs to hide the screws. Recently I noticed this yellow stain around many of the plugs. The floor is finished with polyurethane. What might be causing it and what should I do to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7506" LastActivityDate="2019-08-02T14:15:25.760" Title="Question about yellow stain around wood plugs" Tags="|wood|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9698" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-14T18:09:04.893" Score="2" ViewCount="195" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm constructing a 12 x 15 ft free-standing, stained, pine frame for a decorative wedding backdrop. I'll make the uprights from 2 6' 2x4s and the horizontal from two 7.5&quot; 2x4s. (This is necessary for transporting in a 10&quot; van.)  Ill be sandwiching, connecting all joints with 6&quot; 2x4s and securing all 3 layers with four (or more if needed) 5&quot; x 3/4&quot; dowels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using dowels for easy assembly and disassembly as the frame will be reused at different events.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is, how can I ensure that the dowels don't get stuck in the holes, since there is high humidity?  Will sealing the holes and the dowels be enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7507" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-08-02T19:02:56.097" LastActivityDate="2020-04-28T21:03:05.320" Title="Keeping dowels from getting stuck in high humidity" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5779" CreationDate="2019-06-16T05:05:59.300" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In series works for me. Parallel with a &quot;Y&quot; degraded the suction. I'm running (2) 6.5 hp. It was only practical for long hose runs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7510" LastActivityDate="2019-06-16T05:05:59.300" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9700" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9701" CreationDate="2019-06-16T09:58:33.880" Score="3" ViewCount="582" Body="&lt;p&gt;I mainly use my trusty scroll saw to cut wood. Although the cuts themselves are nice and clean, the sawn edge is kind of uneven and wavy. I try to even that edge out by sanding it by hand for like 30min. But that is kind of tedious and not really effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I was wondering if an electric planer would do a better job at making those edges straight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pUS89.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pUS89.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7511" LastEditorUserId="7511" LastEditDate="2019-06-16T13:37:23.463" LastActivityDate="2019-06-16T16:39:33.860" Title="Use planer to even out edge sawn with scroll saw?" Tags="|plane|scroll-saw|planer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9700" CreationDate="2019-06-16T16:39:33.860" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So I was wondering if an electric planer would do a better job at making those edges straight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. In addition to being far far faster it is much more likely to result in straighter edges. It's possible a planer could straighten the edge pictured in just one or two passes, the work of perhaps 5 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately details of how you'd do this work accurately and safely&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; can't be provided because there are too many variables&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; but yes in theory you can do this with one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A hand plane would make this task much safer, and while it would take a little longer you could still be looking at under a minute. However, in addition to having to buy a plane as you clarified in the Comments if you don't already own suitable sharpening equipment you'd need to buy that too. And on top of learning how to use the plane itself you'd have to learn to sharpen well enough to produce a very good edge (something that many struggle with for a long time) in order for the plane to work properly. So while I'd favour this approach myself it's probably not the ideal recommendation for you, unless you already wanted to get into hand planing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an elephant in the room though....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wrong saw for this type of cut&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I understand if the scroll saw is the only saw you have available you have to use it, but it's not well suited to this type of cutting. Scroll saws are made to do intricate, mostly curved cuts and struggle to do straight cuts of any length. Although various tricks can be used to help improve the results&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; I'd still recommend looking at some options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simplest, cheapest and easiest is a hand saw of some kind. There are numerous decent options available that should cost around the €10 mark, and occasionally less&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt;, with a range of tooth styles — Western, Japanese and a few modern hybrids. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a sharp saw of any style a cut like this can leave a very good, flat surface that may require no further work depending on what you're doing. Nearly perfect dead-straight crosscuts and mitre cuts are possible with a fine-toothed saw used carefully, especially if the cut is done with the help of an aid such as a mitre block/mitre box, or a magnetic sawing guide which would be clamped to the workpiece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Planers have spinning cutterheads that you want to be very careful not go get fingers near unless a guard can be improvised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Much depends on the specific design details of the planer which are unknown. And then there are two basic approaches, moving the wood past the tool or moving the planer past the wood (similar to &lt;em&gt;shooting&lt;/em&gt; done with a hand plane, often done with the wood held in a jig called a shooting board).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Simply clamping a straight piece of wood to the bed of the saw to act as a fence and running the wood along it would help a great deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt; E.g. from Lidl or Aldi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-06-16T16:39:33.860" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9702" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-16T17:55:46.017" Score="2" ViewCount="240" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having a bureau used as a working place (for writing, working, studying).&#xA;Its top has artificially (I suppose) texture finished with lacquer or varnish. It looks OK, but using it as intended (to hold papers, write down thing, put arms on it) is not so comfortable. I'd like to have a flat surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to refinish the bureau's internal surface (only the surface that is contacted with humans arms when he is using), keep all other surfaces as they are (when bureau is closed it will be looking as not modified)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way of refinishing this kind of surface? &#xA;My best suggestion is sanding with a random orbital sander on 80 grit, going up to 200. Or maybe strip the finish and then give it to planer, and only then sand from 120 to 200?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f0O9j.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f0O9j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SpTpB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SpTpB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7512" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T15:59:23.567" Title="How to refinish artificially textured surface?" Tags="|finishing|sanding|refinishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9690" CreationDate="2019-06-17T16:25:18.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made drums before using a jig on a router table.  Much, much safer than a lathe for something that large, and gives a nice finish.  Basically you fasten the drum lengthwise through an axle, and spin it (slowly) over the router table.  For the inside, you can use another jig to hold the router above the drum, and spin the drum on rollers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's pretty hard to explain but easy to visualize - check out my &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cG6iWJ9jdtY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video on making it&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The routing part starts at about 2:27; prior to that I am showing the glue-up (this is a segmented drum, not a single log).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(A second drum that I made used a similar process for routing the inside, except I turned the router upside-down.  This gave more control and was immune to the router gouging the drum.  The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EYshgvRXWBY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;third video&lt;/a&gt; in the series shows this; start at about 1:00)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7515" LastActivityDate="2019-06-17T16:25:18.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9704" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-17T17:15:46.000" Score="4" ViewCount="4237" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made this white cedar chest &amp;amp; I want to protect it from rain and graying from ultraviolet (UV) sun exposure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I desire an oil stain or sealer because I have seen skin-peeling from varnish, shellac, and polyurethane on items left outdoors.  Plus, oil is easy to apply and maintain, just wash off dust and debris, let dry, and reapply a year or three later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the clincher: I want to keep the wood looking as close as possible to what it looks like now, light wood, although I know darkening of the wood is inevitable -- I just want it looking lighter, not yellowed...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I was thinking to use tung oil &amp;amp; while mixing in a UV blocker, but I have no clue where to get a UV blocker, nor what is available, such as perhaps zinc powder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also I was wondering if some kind of pickling/whitewash may help the final oiled project look lighter like the original? --- what would I use for the pickling effect?  A little primer paint in the oil before applying?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions are greatly appreciated&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mjszt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7516" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2020-11-22T15:01:31.727" LastActivityDate="2024-02-16T06:08:25.957" Title="How can I seal/stain white cedar to make look similar to its original light color?" Tags="|finishing|oiling|outdoor|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9704" CreationDate="2019-06-17T17:30:18.597" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want it to remain light colored I would NOT use an oil finish, like tung oil or linseed oil.  These are used specifically when you want a more &quot;amber&quot; finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For UV protection you'll want a &quot;spar varnish&quot; or similar product labeled for outdoor use.  Typically waterborne products keep the wood closer to their original color than oil-based products.  So I'd probably try a waterborne spar varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2019-06-17T17:30:18.597" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9706" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-19T12:09:47.107" Score="3" ViewCount="9780" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ShmaB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have researched and done everything to get my tung oil to dry . It was put on to thick first coat. I removed the coat and sanded . Used lacquer thinner to remove . Still not dry . Has been 10 days . &#xA;Turned heat up to 75 in shop . It now was fairly dry but still slightly tacky . I used 50-50 lacquer thinner and tung oil . Wiped down and left it . &#xA;Still tacky when checked after 18 hrs . &#xA;What do I do ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7521" LastActivityDate="2019-06-21T08:22:18.280" Title="Tung oil does not dry" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9698" CreationDate="2019-06-19T14:47:07.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my portable-assembly projects, I've used plastic biscuits and plastic or metal dowels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, do not expect biscuits or dowels to maintain a planar surface.. If it must be flat and/or strongly joined, you'll want to add a backer board to ensure flatness and rigidity, and some draw-pull latches to secure the pieces together.  Don't forget to consider uneven ground surface, so you likely should add some adjustable feet on this thing, or bring scrap wood to help level it..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For biscuits, I simply used a utility knife to cut out the size I needed from PVC lattice fencing (ie. 2&quot; lattice kind, 8'x4' $19 at Lowes) &amp;amp; I use the knife to beveled the edges of the PVS so it slips in/out of the members' slots easily.  I brad-nail or glue the biscuit into 1 of the members so they don't fall out.  PVC also conveniently allows for some flexing during assembly of your pieces (rather than your product cracking), should your pieces warp a little bit over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, for dowels, you can use very small diameter PVC or PEX pipe (like for refrigerator water lines) &amp;amp; bevel the ends. PEX is a bit weak for flexing during assembly (AKA, fatigue).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to look into beveled metal pins for shelving units, maybe plastic even exists (pin on both sides, often with a thin stop flange).  These can be purchased loose from most hardware stores. To one member, I would secure the pin, either with glue or a sliver of wood for a tension-fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7516" LastActivityDate="2019-06-19T14:47:07.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9708" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-19T16:05:13.290" Score="1" ViewCount="1799" Body="&lt;p&gt;We're trying to figure the best way to make a wine rack, if possible with our CNC. It needs to have square corners on the inside, is there any special router bit that can accomplish this? We're making them by hand at the moment and trying to speed up production time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7524" LastActivityDate="2019-06-23T04:56:48.170" Title="CNC Router square internal corners" Tags="|router|cnc|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9708" CreationDate="2019-06-19T18:46:36.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You didn't state if this is molded from one piece of material (ie. a tree trunk)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First a direct answer to your question of cutting a &quot;square&quot; with a CNC router: The closest thing you can get is to use the SMALLEST bit you can find and cut very, very slowly so you don't break the bit. This will create very small small rounded corners that, at a distance, will appear square. If it were me, I'd do a normal like 1/2&quot; bit first to cut out a rounded-square, then go back with a tiny bit to clean up the corners.  But, without a CNC to do an auto-bit change, it would be far easier to just use a chisel and manually tap out a square corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLEASE FORGIVE ME if you're experienced with woodworking, but this appears to be a very simple project, so I'll speak like you're a beginner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The common way to do a cubby (wine rack) is by using several boards with slots 1/2 way though the board, then slipping the slots into one another to create a self-locking &amp;amp; self-supporting grid pattern of &quot;boxes.&quot;  This method is a fast process!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll provide some instructions:&#xA;8 boards will give you 9 square cubbies.&#xA;Let's say your boards are 5.5&quot; wide by 16&quot; long by .75&quot; thick.  We'll shoot for boxes that are about 3.25&quot; square.&#xA;Stack all boards' broad faces neatly on top of one anther, use a square to make sure they are truly vertical on all sides, and clamp them securely together on both ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the top of the top board (not on its side) along the board length, start 2&quot; in from the end &amp;amp; mark the board, then 3 times go in another 4&quot; &amp;amp; make a mark; you'll be left with 2&quot; at the other end of the board. This will be 4 marks on the board. On each of those 4 marks, make 2 more marks that are .375&quot; (3/8&quot;) on either side of the initial marks. This will mark the 4 slots we need to cut that are to be .75&quot; wide (same width as the board's thickness)&#xA;Then, along the length of the top board, draw a line 2.75&quot; in from the side of the board (that'll be about dead-center, that's how deep you'll cut). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, you'll cut the slots.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your ROUTER can plunge it's bit 2.75&quot; deep, then you could use a .75&quot; wide bit to accomplish this. If doing this by hand, you'll need a straight-edge for a guide at 90 degrees to the boards' surface, but with a CNC you just need to set it up square. &#xA;At each of the 4 slot-markings, pass the router across all 8 boards perpendicularly, creating a slot in each board. With my router bits, I would have to make several passes in each slot, starting the first pass with a low plunge depth, then additional passes each a little deeper until I'd have nibbled out 2.75&quot; for the slot.  The router's drawback is that it is likely to splinter the surface of 1 or both of the outside boards of the clamped assembly -- to prevent this, I would clamp on 2 sacrificial boards to the either side of the 8 clamped boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A TABLE SAW will go faster &amp;amp; will have less wood splintering of the board surface.  If you are fortunate enough to have a dado blade on your table saw, set the blade to .75&quot; wide.  If you're using just a standard blade, you'll just need to make multiple passes to create the .75&quot; wide slots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Set your table saw blade height at 2.75&quot; (which is 1/2 your boards' width).&#xA;Onto the table saw, set your clamped 8 boards on their thickness-sides (it's the only way you can set it down anhow, given that you clamped them together).&#xA;Using the table saw's miter gauge -- that's the metal thing that slides in a slot on the saw table -- set the miter to 90 degrees &amp;amp; use it to help you slowly push the clamped stack of 8 boards though the blade to create the .75&quot; wide slot-marks you marked along the board length.  Be precise with the cuts &amp;amp; keep the boards 90 degrees to the saw blade.  If you didn't use a dado blade at .75&quot;, then you'll need to make multiple passes to nibble away all of the the .75&quot; slot.  Alternately, if you have a narrow chisel, you could make just 2 passes at each slot's outer .75&quot; marks and use the chisel to knock out the flap of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unclamp the boards.&#xA;Creating a grid pattern, press-fit/slip one board's slot into another board's slot until you've locked all boards into one another.  If it's hard to push in, you should use sand paper or a knife to shave off a LITLE wood from the inside of the slot &amp;amp; try slipping the 2 slots together again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because you're holding heavy wine botthles, after the dry-fitting, you should remove one board at a time, apply a coat of glue inside both sides of each slot, then reassemble it to its prior orientation.&#xA;Let dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Test it at capacity for stability and strength: Put full wine bottles in all 9 slots and shake your new stand around to ensure it's strong and stable enough before using it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Done!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7516" LastEditorUserId="7516" LastEditDate="2019-06-19T19:05:31.257" LastActivityDate="2019-06-19T19:05:31.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9710" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-19T22:01:41.660" Score="1" ViewCount="171" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of building a mirror frame using walnut and I am wondering what the standard way to put it together is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine the basic strategy is that there is a backing which is screwed to the studs in the wall. Then I attach dovetail rails to the backing. Then the four sides of the frame are slid onto the dovetails around the mirror. My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;do I need to use some kind of sealant between the wood and the mirror, and if so, how is it applied?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;what is the order of assembly for the frame?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the strategy outlined above will result in butt joints; is there a way to do it with mitred joints?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2019-06-21T08:28:31.773" Title="How is a mirror rebated into a wooden frame?" Tags="|cabinetry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9711" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-20T00:12:18.763" Score="2" ViewCount="185" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am attempting to replicate router cuts &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kslHC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kslHC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made a template and am having difficulty finding router bit that works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My template sits on top of the triangle. I tried using a flush cut pattern bit and the depth is set correctly. That works fine but the top bearing seems to hold cut 1/4 inch from where I want the cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does not seem to cut flush with my pattern. The resulting cut is too narrow. What do I need to do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7526" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2019-06-20T22:48:39.307" LastActivityDate="2019-06-21T23:09:19.550" Title="Flush trim pattern router bit" Tags="|router-bit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9710" CreationDate="2019-06-20T00:24:10.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Traditionally they were rebated in to the frame with a backer of plywood behind the mirror, sometimes with a pad often of cardboard, the mirror is allowed to &quot;float&quot;. On some newer ones the mirror is glued in from the back before installing the backer board. The backer boards are usually nailed, screwed or stapled in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2019-06-21T08:28:31.773" LastActivityDate="2019-06-21T08:28:31.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9711" CreationDate="2019-06-20T18:05:55.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is that you do not, in fact, have a flush cut bit, but rather a hinge mortising bit, such as the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.freudtools.com/products/16-560&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Freud 16-560&lt;/a&gt;, that is designed for templates that are slightly oversized.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yb5VR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yb5VR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can either get a proper flush trim bit, get a different bearing for the bit to make it cut flush, or modify your template to account for the offset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2019-06-21T23:09:19.550" LastActivityDate="2019-06-21T23:09:19.550" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9706" CreationDate="2019-06-21T08:22:18.280" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The following are the major factors that universally affect an application of a drying oil not 'drying' properly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too much oil.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Not too much being applied, too much left on the surface. It's common practice to flood the wood, sort of spreading a puddle around, sometimes leave oil sitting on the surface for perhaps half an hour, and then wipe away excess&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. While I don't apply oil this way myself&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; this amount of oil being applied is not a problem. It's the wiping away of excess that many fall down on. My mantra is that the wood should feel dry when you're done&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Damp conditions, especially if coupled with lower temps.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;High humidity is the bane of oil finishes and always slows down drying and curing. And if it's particularly cold it can actually prevent proper curing of tung oil and other drying oils (and all finishes made from them which includes oil-based poly, &quot;Danish oil&quot; and similar blended products, and the majority of wiping varnishes).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not enough air.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Good airflow is vital to getting oils to dry as fast as they're supposed to, just a window cracked open can make a noticeable difference but if necessary a fan set up to blow air over the piece can be necessary&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt;. BTW this is one reason that oil-based finishes were rarely used on the interiors of furniture pieces, because the oils could take an indefinitely long time to dry due to restricted access to air. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So bearing these in mind we easily see the key elements of proper oiling technique, to prevent a sticky/gummy surface, are to be careful to wipe away all excess, if possible not to use the finish if it's too damp and cold and to ensure free access to air. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also as mentioned in a Comment above, oils like tung are a natural product and as such can, and do, vary from batch to batch (the colour differences alone can show us this clearly). So when using a pure oil in wood finishing the oil itself can vary more than one might expect. More than it should in an ideal world but they get what they get. Pure oils can't benefit from a little additional metallic driers being added to even out drying times the way that different batches of linseed oil can when they're making BLO. This is why BLO is as a rule more consistent in performance than raw linseed, tung or walnut oils, although it too can vary in colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Coming back periodically if needed to wipe away any more that has exuded from the wood and beaded on the surface. This is reasonably common with oak for example but can be seen in other species (usually at a smaller scale though because the pores as smaller).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; It's too wasteful and there's absolutely no difference in effect to applying the oil more sparingly at each coat and rubbing it in well — everyone using oil should do a few comparisons for themselves to confirm, to help reduce waste of expensive oil finishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Not even remotely oily. If it feels oily (and not sort of smooth and waxy) there's oil still on the surface that needs to be removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt; Some might worry that this will lead to too many dust nibs but that's not a concern, remember you left the surface dry after application. You did, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-06-21T08:22:18.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9716" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-21T21:02:21.930" Score="1" ViewCount="3582" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking about purchasing the dewalt dw745 (type 20) table saw with the compact stand included. When on the stand, what is the table top height? I haven’t found much info online with regards to total height from floor to table top.  I’ll be building a larger table to cut larger boards so with any luck I will be able to get my table flush with the dw745. &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LYQY4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;dw745 saw height&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7534" LastActivityDate="2019-06-22T13:56:50.603" Title="What is the height of the dewalt dw745 table saw on compact stand?" Tags="|table-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9716" CreationDate="2019-06-22T13:56:50.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't give an exact height; those stands usually end up being a pretty 'normal' (if there is such a thing!) height. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'd strongly suggest, though, is that you design your bench at the height you want, and simply drop the saw into a big hole in the top of it. Among other things, that will ensure that you can make the saw dead flush with the top, and make it extremely solid within the table. (Otherwise, the stand would be squirming around, and doing fine adjustments on the height is near impossible.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2019-06-22T13:56:50.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9708" CreationDate="2019-06-23T04:56:48.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like it might be an &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/XY_problem&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;XY problem&lt;/a&gt; where you're asking for a solution to a particular difficult thing without considering that there may be better approaches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're correct in that you can't easily cut a square internal corner just with a router (technically it can be done with a 5-axis CNC router, a taper bit, and some clever programming) - but do you really need an internal square corner? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mHY1ia9GaFo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This video is made from the point of view of CNC-machining&lt;/a&gt;, but the principles apply to hand-routing as well. Often it is better to machine &lt;em&gt;past&lt;/em&gt; the internal corner to make what's sometimes referred to as a &quot;dog-bone&quot; shape which gives you additional clearance. There is a trade-off to this visually but depending on where the joints are going to end up sitting, this may not be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, a simple suggestion if you really do need square internal corners is to rout to a rounded corner, and then trim that corner out square with a (&lt;em&gt;sharp&lt;/em&gt;) chisel. Depending on how many joints you have to do, this may be time consuming though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2019-06-23T04:56:48.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9720" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9736" CreationDate="2019-06-24T10:07:30.703" Score="3" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old Chess set which has been in storage in what would appear to be less than ideal conditions. (Photo taken with flash.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KSm0D.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KSm0D.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One half of the box (on one side only, ie the half that is not shown in the image is as fresh as the left side here) is very dull looking. Other than the colour there is no obvious damage. I do not know what has happened to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the easiest way to achieve uniform appearance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: the &quot;damaged&quot; side was uppermost I believe, and there were other things on top. I did not notice excessive amounts of dust around it. Wiping with alcohol does not have any effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7540" LastEditorUserId="7540" LastEditDate="2019-06-25T09:30:25.457" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T19:31:06.570" Title="How to freshen wooden box" Tags="|finishing|refinishing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5854" CreationDate="2019-06-26T10:44:35.083" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;All impact drivers have deliberate  nose wobble so the bit centres itself in the screw used eg square , philips, flat etc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7549" LastActivityDate="2019-06-26T10:44:35.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9723" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-26T12:22:39.870" Score="4" ViewCount="2730" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m building a bookshelf out of MDF (18mm thick) using 6mm dowels (Silverline brand like the dowelling jig).  Each shelf will be dowelled in place at the back and on both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m concerned about whether the dowels will be strong enough for a heavily loaded shelf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a formula or rule of thumb that says how many 6mm dowels are required (or even what distance between dowels is required) to support a given shelf load (in kg) assuming the shelf is supported only by dowels on 3 sides?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m planning for the dowels to be glued.  Are there times when dowels are not enough and the shelf should also be glued, screwed or nailed in place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7550" LastActivityDate="2019-10-19T00:41:41.013" Title="How many 6mm dowels to support a shelf of a given weight?" Tags="|glue|mdf|dowel|weight-capacity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9724" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9734" CreationDate="2019-06-27T15:45:07.297" Score="2" ViewCount="840" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have quite humid workshop and I would like to protect some smaller tools like chisels and hand planes without waxing/oiling them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some waterproof toolboxes(for example &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.screwfix.com/p/stanley-fatmax-28-waterproof-tool-box/53892&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.screwfix.com/p/stanley-fatmax-28-waterproof-tool-box/53892&lt;/a&gt;). Do these prevent all moisture from getting in or does it only protect from some accidental spills/rain etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My idea is to throw in the tools together with some silica packs and after few months of storage opening the toolbox, finding the tools in pristine condition. Will it work or will I be disappointed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7554" LastActivityDate="2019-07-17T19:28:33.577" Title="Will waterproof toolbox prevent rust" Tags="|tool-maintenance|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9720" CreationDate="2019-06-27T15:48:39.737" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have refinished a lot of furniture, and I think a nice risk free place to start with a piece like that is to polish it with mineral oil. Mineral oil is safe, good for wood, and has no odor. With just a small amount on a clean soft cloth, rub the piece all over, discolored area and undamaged area. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7552" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T15:48:39.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9702" CreationDate="2019-06-27T15:59:23.567" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the photos this looks like oak, and I think your just seeing the grain, i don't think its an artificially textured surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are just refinishing the door / writing surface, you could hand plane it, but if you are going all the way inside, there is not space to handplane. IF you handplane, the wood will be notable lighter in color where its been planned away than the rest of the desk, creating a high contrast. Planning would not be a commonly used technique for this application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest stripping chemically, and then a very light sanding - the wood below the finish has already been finished, so unless you scratch it badly while stripping, you could start with 120 grit, and finish with 200. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Green's is a great stripper brand, you want gloves and a stiff brush to massage the old finish out of the way, this looks like an old and easy to strip finish. Some light steel wool, and some denatured alcohol will help you clean off any gunk left in the corners of the inside of the desk if you go that route. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7552" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T15:59:23.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9521" CreationDate="2019-06-27T16:08:25.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few years ago I had the chance to refinish a beautiful teak deck chair. Teak gets that grey color with age, and when you refinish it, a little of that grey actually looks beautiful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you would be making a mistake to sand it heavily, if there are no major marks or gouges, try only sanding with 220, lightly and uniformly. Those little dark speck will come out mostly, and I wouldn't get too crazy about getting them all out. If you over sand one spot to get it out, you will create a bright spot in the finish that looks worse than the little black spot would have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, all you want  to do is rub the whole thing with teak oil - you will be astounded by the amazing depth and color of well oiled teak. If I owned this table, I would re-oil it annually, or semi annually, and I would not keep it covered. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7552" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T16:08:25.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8298" CreationDate="2019-06-27T16:12:07.173" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carefully apply wood glue with a brush so that it gets under all of the lifting veneer. Then you want some plastic wrap on top, and a wide piece of plywood to clamp to the piece so that it squeezed all of the veneer flat. Clamping flat is critical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 24 hours pull the clamps and the plastic wrap, and sand away the excess glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7552" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-06-27T20:08:04.117" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T20:08:04.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7372" CreationDate="2019-06-27T16:16:44.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, this will be stable with humidity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Particle boards are much more susceptible to moisture damage. Plywood will be strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're worried you can cover it with an appropriate paint which will seal it and make it resistant to spills of oils and water (and other stuff that we get on our hard working workbenches).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7552" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-06-27T20:08:50.373" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T20:08:50.373" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6661" CreationDate="2019-06-27T16:22:46.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before buying a new door I would try to wipe the stain with its intended solvent and try to even out the door. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thinking here is that by rubbing the area door with mineral spirits (Old Masters is an oil based stain) you can soften and spread out the stain. I would be pretty generous with the mineral spirits: you might need two small cans of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want your cloth to be pretty saturated, and to cover an area, and then re-work it as the stain will take some time to soften. Obviously, wear gloves, and do this in a well ventilated area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bet you can work out a uniform appearance, and it won't be an insane amount of work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is some risk that this door could be slightly different in appearance (possibly both color and darkness) than the other door. If that is a major concern a new door is the most likely way to get it to match the other doors exactly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7552" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-06-27T20:07:46.503" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T20:07:46.503" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9694" CreationDate="2019-06-27T16:31:23.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a way to maintain this kind of raw wood look and still seal the wood from damage? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, think of cutting boards, those are raw wood, and they can be maintained, while being exposed to moisture and a other materials. Cutting boards need to be oiled to help keep the water from washing out the woods natural oils, and to mitigate over-drying and contracting wood which will split. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, it's not a cutting board - so I recommend a wax based finish. They are nice, safer to handle, and the usually smell wonderfully of citrus. A wax finish will look more like raw wood than almost any other option. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like a cutting board, you would be wise to re-apply, but you could do this every year to every 3 years, depending on your climate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;And why is that necessary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood has a relationship to water. Think about where wood comes from, trees. Trees are in the business of moving liquids up and down, out of the ground, and back down. A tree's hardwood forms out of old softwood, so much of the structure of the wood is the result of a tree's need to move moisture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is to say that wood will interact with its environment, the air it's in, and the moisture content (or lack of moisture) in the air. It will expand and contract, which puts strain on joints, and fasteners, and will cause them to loosen over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sealing the wood with a finish does not stop this interaction, but it limits it, and is a good way to help the furniture we love to endure for many years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7552" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T16:31:23.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7151" CreationDate="2019-06-27T16:35:23.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest the wax! I think it looks best, and it provides enough protection. Redwood used to be commonly used for outdoor building projects that would be exposed to water because it is durable - at least the heartwood is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because this will be indoor, wax will be fine. You may want to re-apply in a couple of years, but in reality, this wood will endure with strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7552" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T16:35:23.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7085" CreationDate="2019-06-27T16:57:10.003" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your table has a skirt, and round folding leaf tables typically do not. My first questions would be, is the skirt required for the structural integrity of the piece? If not, are you willing to remove the skirt, if so, I start there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, folding leaf tables are usually routers with a convex curve on the center leaf edge, and a concave curve on the folding leaf edge at the hinge. This is a design choice, but it adds to the effect of the finished table when the leaves are dropped, minimizing the visible gap at the hinge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This cut has the potential to alter the round appearance of the table, as you will lose at least 1/8 inch from the blades kerf, and then if your router, you will likely lose a little more - just a consideration. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, you'll want to consider the support mechanism that allows the drop leaves to be sturdy when up, and lets the drop when desired. This will be very dependant on the weight of the table's leaves, and how much room you have to work with underneath the table. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simplest support would be a straight board with a swivel at its center, mounted to the edge of the inner seam. You could rotate it so it points outward and supports the drop leaf, and then swivel it in so it lets the leaf drop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7552" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T16:57:10.003" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9724" CreationDate="2019-06-27T17:49:47.693" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a toolbox is waterproof, it is generally also air tight, which would prevent water vapor from entering the box once it is sealed.  The water vapor already in the box could cause rust, so that is where the silica packets come in.  They will remove the moisture from the air.  If the box isn't fairly air tight, that dry air will be replaced with moist air until the packets can no longer absorb the moisture, at which point the tools will start to rust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, with the sealed box, and a sufficient amount of the silica, it should prevent rusting during storage.  A light coating of light machine oil wiped clean followed by paste wax or a product such as Protec Tool Wax or TopCote® table and tool surface sealant works well also.  Avoid silicon based products on hand tools as they can cause issues with the finish on your work piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T17:49:47.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9724" CreationDate="2019-06-27T19:14:43.813" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As LeeG mentioned in his answer even if the toolbox is air tight, moisture is going to get in it when you open it and there may be moisture on your tools when you put them away.  Silica packets may reduce the moisture within the box enough but depending on the humidity levels and how often you are opening the box they may become quickly overwhelmed and become a headache to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend coating your tools with shellac.  It's a natural finish that can be applied to virtually any surface and will provide protection from rust.  It's easy to wipe on but you can also get it in spray cans if you prefer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7556" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T19:14:43.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9720" CreationDate="2019-06-27T19:31:06.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would first clean the whole thing up with mineral spirits (not alcohol) and then try something like &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B001BKQYGW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;feed n wax&lt;/a&gt; on it.  Definitely test this only on a small section (preferably a non visible section) first to see how it looks compared to the existing finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively I would recommend a natural danish oil.  I think any colorless oil finish will darken the damaged side enough to blend it right into the non-damaged side, and danish oil has the advantage of also being a varnish so it will provide additional protection from water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way whatever you use, you should try to test it on a small area that is not easily visible to see the results before finishing the entire piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7556" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T19:31:06.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9640" CreationDate="2019-06-27T19:49:13.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know linseed oil does not &quot;cure&quot; at all.  As with most oil finishes, it serves to enhance the look, resist some staining, and protect the wood from drying out.  However almost all oil finishes (including linseed) require upkeep to be effective.  When treating wood with linseed oil you should be frequently re-oiling the wood as the existing oil will dry out over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I generally follow:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Apply first coat&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Apply again 24 hours later&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Apply again 7 days later&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Apply again 1 month later&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Apply again 3 months later&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Apply again 6 months later&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Apply every year for the remaining life of the wood (or sooner if the wood appears to be drying out).&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are only looking to oil for aesthetics and not protection I see no harm applying the wax immediately after as Graphus has said, although I don't see much benefit in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I only use finishing waxes on moving parts that need to slide with reduced friction.  They provide little protection and you can get a better sheen from a shellac or varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also sell some oil/wax combos and oil/varnish combos that work just fine as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7556" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T19:49:13.993" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9704" CreationDate="2019-06-27T20:17:38.687" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would be inclined to suggest experimenting with Mineral Oil - its a nice clear oil, it will darken some, but I do not know how much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise you could try a clear deck sealer, like Thompson's Water Seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7552" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T20:17:38.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9633" CreationDate="2019-06-27T20:22:23.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paste wax is a good alternative to oil and will darken wood a lot less than an oil will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7552" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T20:22:23.223" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9549" CreationDate="2019-06-27T20:31:29.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;. . .what is the recommendation for finishing so we get a nice looking finish that is also nice and safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you mentioned in the original post, the key to a nice paint job on something like this is a nice clean strip, and good primer. You'll want to prime the piece, sand it lightly, 320-400 grit is good. After sanding, clean thoroughly with a tack cloth, or a wet cloth, and then re-prime. Once the surface is smooth and evenly coated, 1-2 coats of top coat will give you a beautiful finish. Be very careful about drips accumulating in the corners of the piece, as they will puddle, and take away from the sharp clean finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7552" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T20:31:29.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8490" CreationDate="2019-06-27T20:34:19.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no reason to worry about a ratio, I suggest mixing it until its pasty, and it won't run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7552" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T20:34:19.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8400" CreationDate="2019-06-27T20:37:14.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want it to be bullet proof, surfboard epoxy will definitely waterproof it, and it will last for many many years. I've epoxied a 14 foot mahogany wood boat. You have to work in small batches, as the larger the batch the faster the cure, but its neat stuff. I used System 3 when I did my boat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7552" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T20:37:14.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8225" CreationDate="2019-06-27T20:44:46.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beautiful results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Absolutely, epoxy takes other finish very well, as it is completely inert once its hardened. That looks great by the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used spar varnish on top of epoxy for a boat before. I've also sprayed high gloss clear coat - if you have a hvlp spray gun, I recommend that over a can for better results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A very fine sanding with 400 grit first, and then a thorough cleaning is in order before spraying&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7552" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T20:44:46.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7805" CreationDate="2019-06-27T20:53:27.710" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That looks like a very small crack. Of all the options I like epoxy best. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest using a razor blade to clean the inside of the crack. You will likely widen it a hair by doing this, but it's important to get a good bond. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, use painters tape to mask off the wood around the edges of the crack; this is to minimize unintended spreading of the epoxy, which will fill the grain and darken the wood anywhere it contacts the cutting board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mix a small bit of epoxy (even JB weld would work for a job this small). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a putty knife, try to force it down as deep into the crack as possible. Don't be afraid to leave it a little proud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once hardened, pull the tape and use some fine sand paper to make the epoxy flush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7552" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-07-01T07:14:58.320" LastActivityDate="2019-07-01T07:14:58.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8214" CreationDate="2019-06-27T20:57:56.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It can be challenging to put a finish on top of the existing finish. Epoxy is very waterproof and sturdy. It's not exactly easy to work with, or brush on, but this would be a good application, at least on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally you could spar varnish the epoxy, or even just spar varnish it as is if you really want a brush on solution. There is a good chance it would work, and be fairly durable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7552" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T20:57:56.887" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7477" CreationDate="2019-06-27T21:08:02.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because its a cutting board, you could scrape it with a razor blade, if any finish comes up, its finished. From the pictures it looks clearly unfinished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also agree with one of the comments that this is bamboo, which needs less maintenance than some woods. A regular (monthly) oiling with mineral oil would be a standard thing to do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise it looks great, practical, and I recommend that you enjoy using it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7552" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T21:08:02.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9724" CreationDate="2019-06-27T21:10:10.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you should be able to open the tool box and get your tools out in the same condition you put them in. Silica packets are probably overkill, but they won't hurt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7552" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T21:10:10.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7805" CreationDate="2019-06-28T01:17:20.270" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would use a &quot;water proof&quot; wood glue with sanding dust or even some CA glue (supper glue). I have not had good luck using epoxy for this kind of application, but others have and swear by it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2019-06-28T01:17:20.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9752" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9777" CreationDate="2019-06-30T02:33:06.110" Score="5" ViewCount="978" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a novice woodworker. I have been told that modern glues are so strong that they make a bond which is stronger than the wood itself, and consequently complex interlocking joints are, in many cases, obsolete, and that, in fact, a glued joint may be stronger than a joint where the wood has been cut up, like a dovetail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2019-07-24T00:20:20.550" Title="Do modern glues make dovetails obsolete?" Tags="|glue|joints|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9752" CreationDate="2019-06-30T03:23:54.733" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple answer is yes and no. It is true that modern glues are stronger than the wood but only on long grain to long grain joints, dovetail joints are mostly used on long to short grain joints like corners on drawer boxes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that many other corner joints will be very strong and durable, but much easer and quicker to make. Dovetail joints are not generally used in plywood, Baltic birch ply is my usual choice for drawer boxes as it is more stable and less expensive than solid wood. Do a search for drawer and/or box joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2019-07-06T03:08:27.577" LastActivityDate="2019-07-06T03:08:27.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9754" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-30T13:29:37.433" Score="5" ViewCount="4592" Body="&lt;p&gt;Preface - I'm a woodworking novice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I applied a polycrylic finish to an Ikea Gerton (solid beech wood) table top.  I only lightly sanded with 220 by hand before applying the finish. I wasn't aiming to smooth the wood as I was under the impression the finish would smooth things out based on the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The whole idea with sanding the wood is not necessarily to get it as smmoth [sic] as glass. Rather, its to give the wood a clean, even, and scratch-free appearance. [...] Sanding up to 400 really isn’t going to give you a smoother finish in the end. Because after the first coat of finish is applied, you are no longer dealing with the raw wood. You are dealing with the finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/sanding-too-much/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However after applying 3 coats, with a light 220 hand sanding between coats, the wood feels pretty much the same as before applying the finish.  Should I have sanded more before applying the finish or did I do something wrong in the application?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would sanding the finish help achieve a smoother feel to the surface? If so any tips would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7562" LastEditorUserId="7562" LastEditDate="2019-06-30T15:43:03.827" LastActivityDate="2019-07-01T07:10:00.340" Title="Wood Still Rough After Finish" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9754" CreationDate="2019-06-30T14:55:43.160" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, the key to a smooth-feeling finish is to sand lightly with a high-grit (I've used 320) paper between coats of poly, as well as lightly sanding at the end with the same grit. I don't blame you for not sanding the factory surface on the Ikea top, I'm not sure what materials they're using and if it's any kind of plywood you could go right through the veneer and ruin the table top- so good call there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your situation, I would recommend lightly sanding with a high grit paper, somewhere around 320, and see if that smooths out the feel of the table. For next time, try sanding in the same way in between coats of poly (making sure to wipe away any dust with a tack cloth or similar), and you should have a smoother feel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7563" LastActivityDate="2019-06-30T14:55:43.160" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9754" CreationDate="2019-06-30T15:02:13.087" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless the finish applied is one with a very thick film, it will not make the wood smother, in most cases the surface should be sanded smooth 150 to 220 (some will differ on how fine to sand).  Water born finishes tend to raise the grain much more than solvent based finishes, though most do to some extent, sanding or using steel wool, or abrasive pads between coats will provide a smoother coat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2019-06-30T15:02:13.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9757" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-30T23:18:46.067" Score="2" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 12 D.R. Dimes windsor chairs that were finished with some sort of painted crackle effect, dark green with peeks of red. They are approximately 35 years old and the finish is looking dull. I would appreciate advice on how to restore them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7564" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-07-01T09:15:05.253" LastActivityDate="2019-07-01T09:15:05.253" Title="35 year old D.R. Dimes windsor chairs need freshening up" Tags="|refinishing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9758" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-01T05:34:56.987" Score="3" ViewCount="561" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm hoping to install a 94&quot; wide, 8&quot; deep, 1/2&quot; thick bookshelf made of poplar in a location surrounded by three walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks to the three walls, it would be painless to support the shelf on boards attached to studs at both ends, and along the full length of the rear 94&quot; edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the shelf will be in a &quot;showy&quot; area of my home, and because the underside of the shelf will be visible when coming up a staircase, I'm hoping to keep the installation tidy, without unnecessary brackets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because I'm matching an existing built-in &quot;pedestal-top&quot; shelf below, I want to stick with stained poplar, rather than a harder wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a good instinct for whether simply supporting the shelf along three edges will be enough to keep an 8&quot;-deep poplar board from sagging over time, when fully loaded with books.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts on whether three-edge support will be enough? Or might it call for a bracket or two for additional support?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit: I'm intending to securely attach the shelf to &quot;rails&quot; made of the same 1/2&quot; poplar, which would in turn be securely attached to wall studs.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7565" LastEditorUserId="7565" LastEditDate="2019-07-01T14:15:54.727" LastActivityDate="2019-07-03T07:42:09.210" Title="Is support on three sides of a long poplar bookshelf enough?" Tags="|technique|wood|strength|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9754" CreationDate="2019-07-01T06:46:31.633" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is to make sure no tiny dust particles settle onto the finish while it's drying. I've overlooked this in the past when trying to diagnose this same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3562" LastActivityDate="2019-07-01T06:46:31.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9754" CreationDate="2019-07-01T07:10:00.340" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I only lightly sanded with 220 by hand before applying the finish.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Should I have sanded more before applying the finish&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With wood that is already well prepped like on a Gerton worktop from Ikea (already finish sanded in the factory) this would normally be the right amount of sanding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; sand more, and many people do (there's a lot of over-sanding these days), but just a light hand sand should be all that's needed to refresh a previously prepared surface and make it amenable to a waterbased finish (i.e. to help prevent beading).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;However after applying 3 coats, with a light 220 hand sanding between coats, the wood feels pretty much the same as before applying the finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that a flat/smooth wood surface sanded to 220 is pretty smooth that may be what you should expect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't achieve a surface like a sheet of glass until you've built up a thick film finish and sanded and buffed it smooth&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. One other point possibly worth noting is the sort of &quot;silky&quot; surface that well-sanded wood has isn't quite like the glossy surface of a varnish or other film finish, and consequently they don't feel exactly the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;did I do something wrong in the application? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can't be sure but I don't think so. As my previous Comment indicated I was initially concerned that the finish had raised the grain&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; and you were now dealing with a rougher surface, but your comments seem to indicate you have a surface as smooth as it was prior to the finish going on which is fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above is based on the updated Question with the added details requested (thanks for that BTW, often we don't get those!) so it's just the title has me wondering, it shouldn't &lt;em&gt;still&lt;/em&gt; be rough since it shouldn't have &lt;em&gt;previously&lt;/em&gt; been rough......&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; See &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/189/evening-reflectivity-of-a-finish-after-finishing-the-finish&quot;&gt;Evening reflectivity of a finish after &amp;quot;finishing the finish&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1420/leveling-a-finish-finishing-the-finish&quot;&gt;Leveling a finish/finishing the finish&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Some sources state that all finishes raise the grain to some degree, but waterbased finishes do this much more than others because of the water they contain (although even with these it varies somewhat product to product).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-07-01T07:10:00.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8274" CreationDate="2019-07-01T08:12:48.017" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As some people already pointed out, the carbide tool is not as sharp as a HSS bowl gouge can be. The scratches on the outside can only prevent by a shearing cut with a very sharp tool because the grain needs to be cut in almost 90 degrees. Sanding will not help much, depending how deep the chunking is...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The scratches on the inner part look more like sanding scratches which appear when you do not move the sanding paper quickly enough on the rotating bowl or the bowl turns to fast while sanding. In general, the sanding paper should never hold still at any point!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mostly start with 80 grid paper to get rid of most tool marks and correcting some minor curves or whatever... Only if I am happy with the surface after this process, I proceed with smaller grids and go through them very quickly.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Also it helps to sand in fibre direction by hand which eliminates all the marks you show in the second picture...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2738" LastActivityDate="2019-07-01T08:12:48.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9758" CreationDate="2019-07-01T08:56:31.890" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is support on three sides of a long poplar bookshelf enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, but see note.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you expect to heavily load only the front edge of the shelf (seems unlikely!) it should be OK. Shelves installed this way are relatively common and while 94&quot; is a very long shelf and poplar isn't a particularly stiff wood the rear support makes all the difference. You wouldn't get away with it if the shelf were only supported at each end....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The data in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sagulator&lt;/a&gt; tells us that a normal shelf of this width supported at the ends only would deflect excessively with the load I assumed&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, but with a substantial edging strip (simulates the support provided by the batten attached to the wall at the back, which can't be deflected) this becomes acceptable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; this is based on the shelf being firmly attached to all three supports, &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; floating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If in doubt, reinforce&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Obviously if you did add a bracket or two as you mention in the Question it/they would do the job. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But since you'd prefer not to use brackets other reinforcements are possible that I presume won't mess with the aesthetics too much. This includes adding an edging strip to the front edge&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, making the rear support thicker (double up by attaching a second piece of the same wood) and using thicker poplar than 1/2&quot; for the shelf itself (going to 3/4&quot; makes a &lt;em&gt;significant&lt;/em&gt; difference).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Don't know the type or number of books you want to load on the shelf so as I typically do I went heavy to give a good safety margin. In this case I assumed a weight per foot well over double that given for paperbacks by some published sources (checked against a stack of modern paperbacks just now on my kitchen scales which were a tad over 3kgs, 7 lb). This gave a total in excess of 130 lbs for a shelf of this width. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; You can install the shelf as planned and if it does bow more than you'd like you could add an edging strip at any time in the future, in situ if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-07-03T07:42:09.210" LastActivityDate="2019-07-03T07:42:09.210" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4892" CreationDate="2019-07-01T11:15:25.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A while back I was also scratching my head over this same question/issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just wanted to know the different types of wood glue I could use for my woodworking projects at home, as well as where to apply them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After thorough research consulting several woodworking/adhesive sites, and also visiting my local hardware shop, I learnt that when it comes to wood glue, one type does not fit all woodworking applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of us are familiar with the yellow wood glue or Titebond which is actually a brand of Polyvinyl Acetate (PVA) glue. All your yellow and white wood glue are all PVA glues, which is just one of the types of wood glue (though it is the most common).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Michael Pekovich of Fine Woodworking says that it is great for about 80 percent of your woodworking projects. Considering how common it is, I'm sure he's right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other types of wood glue and I figured it wouldn't be a bad idea to make an infographic about this topic that makes everything easier to read and comprehend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FyoN4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FyoN4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Type of wood glue | Infographic&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodbenchtopplaner.com/types-of-wood-glue/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7548" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-07-13T07:59:00.733" LastActivityDate="2019-07-13T07:59:00.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9765" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-01T15:04:48.747" Score="1" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;The plan is to take some live edge pine, chop a square mortise in it, and use a hidden wedge in the tenon of the legs (poplar 1.5&quot;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this too thin? Unnecessary? It would be for side tables. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7567" LastActivityDate="2019-07-01T15:04:48.747" Title="Can I use a hidden wedge tenon joint in 2&quot;thick pine?" Tags="|mortise-and-tenon|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9766" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-02T09:45:31.433" Score="2" ViewCount="136" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am assuming it is some sort of laminate but I as the question states I am wondering when the material is that looks like a hard white plastic that goes over wood and tends to be used in bathrooms/kitchens etc. Also is it possible to buy and apply as DIY or is it something that needs to be done in a factory? Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see it on the doors in this link&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/fardal-door-with-hinges-high-gloss-white-s99904189/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/fardal-door-with-hinges-high-gloss-white-s99904189/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7570" LastActivityDate="2019-12-01T16:01:20.147" Title="What is the material that goes over Bathroom cupboards to give it a plastic shine look?" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9767" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-02T12:15:29.013" Score="1" ViewCount="621" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do cabinet makers achieve a seamless fit when joining panels with dowels to make up their furniture?  The dowels obviously help align the panels perfectly, but to avoid a half millimetre gap along the join (between the panels), is anything extra needed such as hammering in thin nails or gluing the actual panels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7550" LastEditorUserId="7550" LastEditDate="2019-07-02T12:43:55.980" LastActivityDate="2019-07-03T16:00:21.687" Title="How do cabinet makers achieve seamless joins" Tags="|furniture|glue|cabinetry|dowel|nails|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9767" CreationDate="2019-07-02T12:36:40.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just accurate work and some training. There are also good jigs which can be used with a router and they have a fine tuning to make the fit more loose or tight...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2738" LastActivityDate="2019-07-02T12:36:40.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9770" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9771" CreationDate="2019-07-03T11:55:29.987" Score="4" ViewCount="4238" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a beginning woodworker, and I'm thinking about buying a router later this year. I note that fixed base routers are somewhat cheaper than plunge routers, which is attractive to me. As such, I'm curious to know what one can do with a plunge router that you cannot do with a fixed base router (and some patience). Is the plunge mechanism really just a convenience / time saver? Or are there tasks that can only be done with a plunge router?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5810" LastActivityDate="2019-07-12T18:10:20.187" Title="What can a plunge router do that a fixed router cannot?" Tags="|router|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9770" CreationDate="2019-07-03T13:45:52.807" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, you are not necessarily limited to one or the other. You can get routers that support multiple bases - Plunge, Fixed, and Offset. If cost is an issue, either buy used, or get one that supports additional bases that you can add later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the core of the question, one of the common mistakes people make with hand-held routers is making a cut that is too aggressive. A plunge router allows you to preset multiple depths, so you can quickly and accurately adjust the router between passes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With some types of router work, such as inlay, you want the cut area to be very precisely defined. A plunge router allows you to reach your desired depth of cut without having to &quot;angle drop cut&quot; into your work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2019-07-12T18:10:20.187" LastActivityDate="2019-07-12T18:10:20.187" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9770" CreationDate="2019-07-03T15:55:09.657" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I do use my plunge router occasionally for 90+% of the time I use the fixed base. But there are tasks that are difficult if not impossible to do without a plunge base. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree over all with the LeeG's answer. But would add get one that will accept 1/2&quot; and 1/4&quot; bits, variable speed,and a minimum of 1 1/2 hp. Buy the best that is within your budget.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said all of that for years I used a $10 garage sale special, it did do the job most of the time but not as easily, now dedicated for the dovetail jig. Look around for a good used one some time they can be had at a very good price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2019-07-03T15:55:09.657" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9767" CreationDate="2019-07-03T16:00:21.687" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to this question could be simple or complex depending on exactly what sort of joinery or cabinet making you're talking about - you're asking it in a fairly generic context. That said, it sounds like you're talking about joining individual boards with butt joints to make a larger panel. You've mentioned dowels - they are sometimes used when joining panels but are not a requirement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, to avoid gaps between the boards where they're joined, the edges are &lt;em&gt;jointed&lt;/em&gt; using a jointer, a hand plane, or other tools. Jointing is basically the process of creating a true and flat edge. Boards with jointed edges can be glued together, creating a seam that has no gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To avoid alignment gaps (i.e. the surfaces of the boards aren't perfectly in-plane, leaving a ridge or lip along the joint), boards are typically aligned with either internal means (dowel pins as you suggested) or external (clamping jigs that hold the boards in fixed positions). Further, and perhaps more practically, panels are usually glued up &lt;em&gt;prior to finishing&lt;/em&gt; - so, once the panel is glued, it may be planed to a final thickness, which would result in a true alignment of the faces of the boards, or at the least it'll be scraped or sanded to smooth the surface - which will also true up the surfaces and result in a flush alignment between the boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A final aspect to gluing up panels is lumber selection - choosing and orienting boards so they will behave well once glued. A board that has a lot of grain runout (the grain isn't in-plane with the surfaces of the board) or a large knot or other defect will be more likely to move and change dimensions before or after it's been glued into a panel, which can cause alignment problems regardless of how good the joint is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7488" LastActivityDate="2019-07-03T16:00:21.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9752" CreationDate="2019-07-03T20:47:30.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not to repeat JustSaying, I would say the answer is no, they are not obsolete.  While strength is one component of a joint, esthetic is another.  Who doesn't love a good dovetail?  It's a detail that makes one piece stand well above another that could be stronger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastActivityDate="2019-07-03T20:47:30.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9766" CreationDate="2019-07-04T14:18:33.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A turner in my club does the equivalent of this finish.  In presentations, he's pretty clear that it takes specialized equipment, lots of time and focus for a perfectly level (no orange peel, etc.) shiny (not dull/matte) finish.  He has a special booth, and personal protection so as not to breath fumes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, I love the finish, but would not undertake such a setup.  There are epoxy finishes that are safer (given plenty of fresh air), and more targeted to one-off types of finishing.  You might try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastActivityDate="2019-07-04T14:18:33.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9776" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-05T14:12:50.787" Score="1" ViewCount="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in a bad spot because I got a &quot;5/32 file &amp;amp; file-guide&quot; kit but it doesn't seem to 'fit well' with any of my chains (all 5/32&quot;, some low-profile some regular)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7577" LastActivityDate="2019-07-05T14:12:50.787" Title="When sharpening 3/8&quot; chainsaw chains, do you use the same file for 3/8&quot; low-profile as you'd use for regular?" Tags="|sharpening|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9752" CreationDate="2019-07-05T18:31:24.163" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dovetails can be obsolete in the sense they aren’t entirely needed depending on how strong the joint needs to be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glues can be stronger than the wood in the sense that the surface fibers the glue is adhered to will pull apart and fail before the glue does. That doesn’t mean a glued joint is stronger than one that is dovetailed and glued. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the advantages dovetails and things like box joints have is they create more long grain to long grain surface area that can be glued together. That greater area creates a stronger joint than a simple glued butt joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other advantage that dovetail and box joints have is there is continuous wood fibers running into the joint from two directions. Wood fibers are much stronger along their length than they are in separating from each other the way wood in a simple glued joint fails. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all destructive tests I’ve seen, dovetail joints beat a glued joint by a wide margin. Box joints are a little stronger than dovetails usually. And the greater the number of boxes or dovetails in a joint the stronger it is up to some point. See Matthias Wandel’s destructive test videos. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But that may not matter in a given application if the joint is strong enough, it may not be worth the extra work to create the dovetail or box joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others mentioned it’s a matter of aesthetics and quality too though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7578" LastEditorUserId="7578" LastEditDate="2019-07-24T00:20:20.550" LastActivityDate="2019-07-24T00:20:20.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3316" CreationDate="2019-07-05T19:38:05.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This tool is a tapering tool for chair, or table legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the leg in a vise, square end to one side, the tapering tool is brought slowly and carefully (adjusting from the square end) down to the foot end one layer at a time. It is adjusted using an adjustable hand wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am old-school (75 years old) and I used this tool when I was a youth of 12 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7579" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-07-06T03:09:19.970" LastActivityDate="2019-07-06T03:09:19.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9782" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9783" CreationDate="2019-07-08T21:10:32.553" Score="4" ViewCount="1832" Body="&lt;p&gt;total newbie here. First wood project is turning a live edge piece of pine into a kitchen island, but I think I've run into a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to fill holes with this wood filler, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2fvvj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2fvvj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wood Filler&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; but I covered some large areas with it because I assumed I could just sand it off:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that I've finished sanding, there are quite a few spots that have white splotches from the wood filler, like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UScnC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Filler on Wood Panel&quot;&gt;&#xA;Is there anything I can do to fix it? Sanding more doesn't seem to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, secondary question: what will happen if I don't use a wood conditioner before staining?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7586" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2019-07-09T00:43:43.440" LastActivityDate="2019-07-09T08:53:39.833" Title="How to fix white splotches on pine from wood filler?" Tags="|wood|sanding|wood-repair|pine|filler|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9782" CreationDate="2019-07-09T08:53:39.833" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Now that I've finished sanding, there are quite a few spots that have white splotches from the wood filler&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That looks like something you get almost always when sanding wood that isn't absolutely perfectly flat — fine sanding dust settled into some minor surface imperfections (they can be incredibly small or shallow and still show this effect). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To check if this is the case give the area pictured a quick wipe over with alcohol or mineral spirits, if the whitish bits vanish they're sanding residue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brush the surface well and then wipe down with a dry or barely-damp cloth (microfibre cloths are great for this) and the light residue should diminish greatly, possibly disappear entirely&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. See this previous Question for more if needed, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1080/how-to-remove-dust-after-sanding-before-applying-paint-oil-glue/&quot;&gt;How to remove dust after sanding before applying paint/oil/glue?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also, secondary question: what will happen if I don't use a wood conditioner before staining?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are multiple previous Q&amp;amp;As that touch on the use of &quot;wood conditioner&quot;, IF you use it to help prevent blotching where and how to use it properly, alternatives to the commercial product (all cheaper, often more effective) and alternative approaches to colouring blotch-prone woods that sidestep the need to pre-treat them. I'll link to a few of the most relevant at bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like you're working on a lovely bit of wood, with nice tight grain not commonly seen these days on pine and related softwoods, so I would urge caution re. your plan to stain if you'll be using a true stain (penetrating stain). Pine is notorious for how badly it stains and that's why there are products sold to help get better results, but they typically don't completely solve the problem&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The makers of &quot;wood conditioner&quot; (AKA &quot;pre-stain conditioner&quot; or just &quot;pre-stain&quot;) can give buyers the impression that their products are a magic bullet for blotching but that's far from the truth&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some previous Questions:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1020/should-you-always-use-pre-stain/&quot;&gt;Should you always use Pre-Stain?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1356/wood-conditioner-between-stain-layers/&quot;&gt;Wood conditioner between stain layers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2926/should-pre-stain-be-used-with-gel-stain/&quot;&gt;Should pre stain be used with gel stain?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Test first!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Regardless of the finishing approach you end up settling on I would recommend you test it out on the underside of the slab before starting on the top (I'm presuming you don't have an offcut but if you do use that). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case it's important to sand the test surface to exactly the same level as the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Testing before committing to the completed item is considered a must-do in finishing as you can never be sure how an individual piece of wood is going to take finish, finishing products can go bad during storage or the test shows that you haven't stirred/shaken enough yet. And occasionally there can be some variation from batch to batch in colour, consistency or drying time, any one of which it's important to know about before the finish touches the workpiece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Don't sweat this too much, it's not necessary to get every last spec of sanding residue from the surface of wood as the first coat of any finish will take care of the remainder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; The issues are that they A) don't reliably or completely prevent blotching and B) because they act by partially sealing the wood surface they limit the absorption of conventional stains, reducing the staining effect. Meaning you often get a lighter colour than you wanted. And on top of this, as Bob Flexner has highlighted in recent years, the instructions that come with many/most of these products are wrong about how to use them most effectively!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Regardless of whether you use a commercial product or a homemade solution (which as I say above can often work better) the problem is not always fully conquerable, and because there's no real way to preview the result some woodworkers take the position that they don't stain blotch-prone woods at all. They either exclusively colour them using coloured topcoats, or, only use these woods for their natural colour (bearing in mind that they will naturally darken over time from light exposure, sometimes considerably).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-07-09T08:53:39.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9784" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9786" CreationDate="2019-07-10T00:42:26.183" Score="6" ViewCount="4035" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'm 6 coats deep and cannot get the lacquer to settle flat. I think the lacquer is just drying too fast for me to adequately put enough on before it starts to set, it's a desktop of 2 feet by 4.5 feet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried sanding between coats and even going over a new coat with thinner to make it really wet, but the bristle streaks always come through. The surface feels entirely smooth to the touch, but the streaks are real. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read that when people are using shellac for french finishes they move on to sanding with progressively finer sand paper with a final round of polishing. Is that what people usually do after reaching their desired number of coats or is this just totally misapplied?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What am I doing wrong here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Materials:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Watco &quot;Crystal Clear&quot; gloss lacquer&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wooster 3-inch White China, flat brush&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Klean Strip lacquer thinner&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Original process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Apply coat thick enough such that the brush would glide with no friction across surface&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After coat was dried, it was sanded with 420-grit sandpaper until surface was smooth and flat to the touch, then another coat was applied&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Final coat with no sanding&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Altered process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Apply coat as before.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Then I would go over the coat with lacquer thinner in an attempt to get the lacquer to stay liquid and coalesce&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sand as before, then apply another coat with lacquer thinner&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Final coat with lacquer thinner but no sanding&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8tdET.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;example of streaking via reflection&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q8eDx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;another example of streaking via reflection&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7591" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-07-11T16:17:09.313" LastActivityDate="2023-03-01T00:41:21.500" Title="Lacquer, persistent brush marks" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5333" CreationDate="2019-07-10T01:27:24.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Osmo top oil is food grade safe, and claims to be impervious to &quot;beer, wine, saliva, and milk&quot;... but interestingly did not mention alcohol.  I also have a wood shot glass to finish, so I tested a piece of wood with two coats of osmo oil by letting a puddle of tequila sit on it for 30 mins... no effect on the wood, and the tequila just rolled off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7592" LastActivityDate="2019-07-10T01:27:24.217" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9784" CreationDate="2019-07-10T16:55:46.067" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before getting into the Answer proper I want to say that brushing lacquer is not an easy finish to use, any reassurances by a manufacturer notwithstanding :-) It's even more difficult to use well, i.e. to achieve a really nice result, and this goes double for large surfaces. So without realising it you set yourself a difficult task from the outset &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; the product's own instructions let you down (more on this below) so don't be too hard on yourself that you ran into difficulties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;even going over a new coat with thinner to make it really wet&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was the only outright mistake I think you made. By applying lacquer thinner to the previous, dry, surface you softened it thereby ensuring partially-dissolved lacquer would be picked up by the brush loaded with fresh lacquer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the sort of thing that inevitably leads to texture problems&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reading through the technical sheet for the product certain things stand out to me in relation to the issues you experienced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Apply using a good quality bristle brush or applicator.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems you're doing exactly as recommended here but I personally wonder if china bristle (AKA hog bristle) is actually the ideal brush for this product. Hog hair is a coarse bristle and in general these are suited to slow-drying finishes that leave plenty of time for brush marks or other texture to settle out&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If any coat has dried more than 6 hours, lightly sand with 220 grit sandpaper before recoating to avoid brush marks.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mention sanding with 420 paper, which is fine for sanding between coats but a bit fine for taking down fairly prominent texture like you've been getting (the idea being, IF you sand between coats, that you get the surface good and flat before the next coat goes on so you don't risk compounding the problem).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I note is conspicuous in its absence is the lack of a caution not to overwork the surface (they only mention it in passing in relation to preventing bubbles in the finish). Not overworking the surface is absolutely cornerstone advice with any finish capable of redissolving itself — for best results it's pretty much vital that you lay the finish on in long, smooth strokes and do as much as you can to never go back over an area twice. If you spot a bleb, an errant hair from the brush or something else you fight the urge to deal with it now and just leave it to sort out after drying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've read that when people are using shellac for french finishes they move on to sanding with progressively finer sand paper with a final round of polishing. Is that what people usually do after reaching their desired number of coats or is this just totally misapplied?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes and this is exactly what I was just about to advise. (Note this isn't traditional French polishing, that involves rubbing on shellac in many very thin coats using a tightly bundled pad to achieve the final ultra-smooth surface.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What to do now&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I would abandon the idea of getting a lovely surface directly from the product for starters. It's possible that you can do this but it is difficult to do well and there's no guarantee that final coat will dry perfectly, so I think it's safest not to try at this stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And now after six coats you should have applied plenty of lacquer for sanding flat and buffing/polishing so you're well set up for this next process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few previous Q&amp;amp;As that cover the basics but for a full article on the subject see this extract on Google Books from Fine Woodworking's &lt;strong&gt;More Finishes and Finishing Techniques&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.com/books?id=OoLmzPO-rikC&amp;amp;pg=PA57&amp;amp;lpg=PA57&amp;amp;dq&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rubbing Out a Finish&lt;/a&gt; by Jeff Jewitt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; As a rule finishes of all sorts work best over well-dried preceding coats and this is especially true of finishes such as shellac and lacquer which can readily dissolve their dried state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; According to their technical data Watco's brushing lacquer does shrink by a factor of five or more during drying, which could achieve the same end as a long drying time which allows settling, but I'd still personally want less texture in each coat than you can get from a brush like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-07-10T16:55:46.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9790" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-12T10:46:53.783" Score="8" ViewCount="6125" Body="&lt;p&gt;Old cars use a mix of metal chassis, wooden frame, and steel/alumin*m sheet nailed/screwed over the frame. Most of the timber is straight, but a few parts have substantial bends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to repair the top rear edge of an Austin 7 roadster. This is bent into a horseshoe but with two extreme bends - probably 4.5&quot; radius for nearly 90°. It is a plank/beam about 7ft long, 2&quot; x 5/8&quot; section. I suspect oak, ash, or some type of cedar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I can't easily get green timber, so was wondering what timber at my local merchants would be best for attempting this bend. I'm in Australia - Tasmanian Oak, Meranti, Pine, Oregan are easy to get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7602" LastActivityDate="2019-07-13T07:52:34.957" Title="Best wood species for extreme bends?" Tags="|bending|wood-species|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7810" CreationDate="2019-07-12T10:56:44.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you have returned it so not a lot of point discussing further. But just in case:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It could be saved - a careful half an hour with a file might have been enough to square the mouth.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Either an angled grind on the blade, or tilting it in the holder, would have given you even protrusion, and thus a consistent shaving thickness?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7602" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-07-13T08:00:14.913" LastActivityDate="2019-07-13T08:00:14.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6403" CreationDate="2019-07-12T11:09:22.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most equipment these days is double insulated. Some countries/states explicitly prohibit you earthing anything on them - it is illegal, and in some failure situations, dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Safest way would be to wear gloves, and put the router on a metal shelf in between cuts :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7602" LastActivityDate="2019-07-12T11:09:22.357" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9790" CreationDate="2019-07-12T14:23:21.247" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; bend most woods, some easier than others, but even the easier ones to work with can fail.  Oak is one of the more common wood to use when bending so I would recommend that. I would strongly advise against using pine or any non-hardwood though. You definitely don't want to restore a car with softwood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three main methods for bending wood: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Steam&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lamination&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kerf cutting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend lamination. It's relatively easy, doesn't require any special equipment/setup, and laminated wood is very strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To perform lamination bending you want to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rip your wood into thin strips (pretty much as thin as you are comfortable ripping on your tablesaw). &lt;strong&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt;: You want to cut these pieces longer than the finished product needs to be so you can cut them all flush at the end.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create a form on a flat surface in the shape you want your final product to be.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Soak the wood strips in water and bend them into the form and clamp it together (use no glue at this point, this is just to create a &quot;memory&quot; of the general bend(s) you need). Leave overnight. You may snap some of your strips at this step so I recommend cutting a few extra to have ready for this.  The more wet you get the wood the less likely they will snap but it is still possible depending on the grain orientation/knots/etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mark across the bottom and/or top of your wood strips to ensure you can put them back together in the same order/orientation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take everything apart and let it thoroughly dry (note the wood will rebound some but should remain fairly bent when dry)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Evenly coat all strips of wood with wood glue. (The site below recommends not using wood glue so you can choose one of their recommendations if you desire, but there is nothing better for gluing wood than wood glue so I'm not sure where they get off.)  I would definitely use Titebond III for this since it is likely to get damp. (Titebond II would probably be fine as well but there is no harm in being over cautious.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;reassemble, clamp, and let sit 24 hours. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut the ends flush and plane the top/bottom flush&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finish&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;????&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Profit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wikihow.com/Bend-Wood&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This wiki article on wood bending&lt;/a&gt; has some good information on bending wood but as I said above I do not agree with their recommendation against using wood glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also would advise against using a bandsaw to make your rip cuts (unless your project is too tall to cut in a table saw; based on the dimensions you provided, it is not) as it will not produce as precise a cut as a table saw.  If you must make your rip cuts on the bandsaw I would cut them a bit wider and then plane them flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally I recommend taking a stab at a smaller project first using the same wood as there is bound to be lessons learned and you don't want to make a mistake on a large project using expensive hardwood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7556" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-07-12T14:58:48.960" LastActivityDate="2019-07-12T14:58:48.960" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9794" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-12T20:31:58.223" Score="4" ViewCount="1217" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been using a wood hardener and so far that has been working. Should I be using a stabilizer instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More generally put: when fabricating a walking stick or walking cane what is the best product to use to stop the ends from splitting? A stabilizer or a hardener?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7603" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-07-12T23:35:20.757" LastActivityDate="2019-07-13T14:46:44.277" Title="Stabilizer or hardener for handmade wooden canes" Tags="|wood|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9794" CreationDate="2019-07-13T06:17:53.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally the bottom end of a cane or stick is protected by a ferrule&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; or full cap, traditionally of metal (hence the hard &lt;em&gt;tap, tap, tap&lt;/em&gt; of a Victorian or Georgian gent walking down the street in movies). These days caps are often of rubber and a Google search for &quot;walking stick caps&quot; will bring up many vendors. There are numerous styles available in multiple diameters to suit sticks of all sizes and types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the top end, many sticks feature caps or handles made from other materials which are glued in place (usually with a dowel or metal rod for reinforcement) and therefore help stabilise that area. If the top is just the cut end of the stick though any decent finish will protect it just fine. However, even if left bare there shouldn't be a particular issue with splitting if the wood is well dried beforehand&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your sticks feature simple cut tops you can continue to treat the end grain there with wood hardener for added insurance against splitting, nothing wrong with erring on the side of caution, but it shouldn't normally be necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a good, if brief, overview of traditional stickmaking on the Woodworker's Institute site, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodworkersinstitute.com/wood-carving/techniques/stickmaking/learn-the-basic-rules-of-stickmaking/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Learn the Basic Rules of Stickmaking&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; This can be as simple as a short cutoff of copper pipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; One of the hardest parts of traditional stickmaking is having the patience to let your collected wood season, it takes months at minimum and possibly a year or more depending on species and the thickness of the branch or sapling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-07-13T06:17:53.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9790" CreationDate="2019-07-13T07:52:34.957" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I suspect oak, ash, or some type of cedar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe it will always have been ash. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;European ash, &lt;em&gt;Fraxinus excelsior&lt;/em&gt;, is one of the traditional coachbuilders' woods, valued for its strength and shock-absorbing properties as well as its ability to take bends well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's still used today for major structural elements in Morgans:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IX8yk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IX8yk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Morgan shop floor&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I understand European hardwoods can be very expensive in Australia so it may not be feasible for you to use this even if you can locate a local supplier. American versions of ash could be equally suitable but no idea if they're available there or what they cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm in Australia - Tasmanian Oak, Meranti, Pine, Oregan are easy to get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tasmanian oak (actually some types of eucalyptus) and meranti (Philippine mahogany) are both viable options. Of the two I'd probably favour the tassie oak, in part because it's more likely to be from a managed supply. And this PDF from Forests NSW tells us that it bends very well, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0008/390293/The-Bending-of-Timber.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Bending of Timber&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pine I'd discount on principle, regardless of species.... but especially if it's radiata. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oregan (oregon?) may be douglas fir as one of the alternate names for doug fir is Oregon pine. If that's what it is even though it's a softwood it actually wouldn't be a terrible substitute, it's widely bent e.g. for boats and is stiff and (relatively) hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Air-dried v kiln-dried&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Although kiln-dried wood is widely noted for being less suited to bending&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; (up to and including the opinion &quot;Don't do it.&quot;) it's widely used for the purpose as you might imagine because kiln-dried wood is now the norm, not the exception. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following video on YouTube from Engels Coach Shop, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9UPihp04xY&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Steam bending wood, 1&quot; thick kiln dried ash.&lt;/a&gt; has much useful information. You may also want to have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.austin7.org/Technical%20Articles/Bending%20Ash%20Frames/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; on the Cornwall Austin Seven Club's site. A Google search just for &quot;bending ash&quot; will net much more information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Now, I can't easily get green timber&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You wouldn't want to use green wood for this because after bending you'd have to contend with lots of unexpected movement (including some likely warping). In addition, you'd have to wait for it to dry — a year or more! — before you could safely attach it to the existing components and during which time you could expect some cracks to form, even if steps were taken to seal the end grain well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Expect some learning curve with bending, it's sure to be one of those things where it's more difficult in practice than it appears. There may be some subtle points that you only realise once you get hands-on with the process (there usually are) no matter how much you've read up on it and how many videos you've watched of it being done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; One of the basic issues with kiln-dried wood is that it's drier, but the EMC of either wood fundamentally depends on local conditions. In a humid climate wood will bend more readily than in a dry climate, regardless of how the wood was initially dried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-07-13T07:52:34.957" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9794" CreationDate="2019-07-13T14:46:44.277" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is a walking stick* as apposed to a cane, one of the traditional ways of hardening the ends is with fire^. CA glue will also work to harden and stabilize the wood. As Graphus said a ferrule is excellent solution and can be decorative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*A walking stick usually maintains the natural shape of the stick and in my view have the bark removed and may have branch nubs smoothed out and some what primitive looking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;^Heating the ends after initial shaping where some limited charing occurs witch can mostly be removed by sanding or carving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2019-07-13T14:46:44.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9799" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-15T04:12:25.727" Score="2" ViewCount="137" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am brushing lacquer on 50 small walnut plates. My first coats were a bit of a learning curve and I had produced some small bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that new coats of lacquer will dissolve into the previous coats fixing small imperfections. After my 2nd coat of Watco's clear finish dried for 2 hours (as label recommended), I applied my 3rd and anticipated final coat. No new bubbles, but the previous ones are still present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aren't lacquer re-coats supposed to dissolve/remove pinhole bubbles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To remedy this, I'm trying to decide the best course of action. Should I:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sand with 400 grit and apply another coat  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rub out and see if its enough  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply a bit of lacquer thinner +/- lacquer and re-coat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7610" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2019-07-17T16:28:19.550" LastActivityDate="2019-07-17T16:28:19.550" Title="Are lacquer re-coats supposed to dissolve/remove pinhole bubbles?" Tags="|finishing|wood-repair|hardwood|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9800" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9801" CreationDate="2019-07-15T05:38:35.283" Score="3" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bar that has a corner that was damaged in a move:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EIHqV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EIHqV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;corner damage&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems as if the wood underneath the finish is MDF. But, how do I identify what the finish is that was used here, so that I can identify the proper repair?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully the repair can be localized, and not require resurfacing/refinishing the entire bar. A larger picture of the bar is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RhN1o.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RhN1o.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;full picture of bar&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Update #1 Closeup Photos of damage&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In response to &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/9800/what-glaze-or-surface-treatment-to-repair-this-bar#comment20131_9801&quot;&gt;Graphus's comment&lt;/a&gt;: &quot;... should reveal a cream-coloured paint&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gX3Zs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gX3Zs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2019-7-16 8-29-30.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aBMZj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aBMZj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2019-7-16 8-29-14.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7wuOi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7wuOi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2019-7-16 8-29-6.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qCzzA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qCzzA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2019-7-16 8-28-56.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7479" LastEditorUserId="7479" LastEditDate="2019-07-16T15:43:56.980" LastActivityDate="2019-07-16T15:43:56.980" Title="What glaze or surface treatment to repair this bar?" Tags="|finishing|finish-selection|refinishing|mdf|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9800" CreationDate="2019-07-15T07:31:02.787" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;how do I identify what the finish is that was used here, so that I can identify the proper repair?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some test you can perform to narrow down or identify the finish used on something. Sometimes a good educated guess can be right on the money, pieces from the right eras will inevitably be finished in only certain things (shellac before a certain date, lacquer after until recent times). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The presence of MDF tells us this is a modern piece so there are a few possibilities for the finish, but what was originally used doesn't really matter because repairs don't need to be done in the same material, in fact they frequently aren't. It's quite common in refinishing for the colouring of spot repairs to be done in a different way to originally, and then for a different final finish to be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hopefully the repair can be localized, and not require resurfacing/refinishing the entire bar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Absolutely. In the worst-case scenario you'd be looking at refinishing the top only, not the entire cabinet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But spot repairs are possible and this is definitely what I would try here first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like you need to: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Build the lost material back up. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Restore the colour.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Equalise the finish.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repairing any lost material is fairly easy at heart, you can use a range of things both commercial and homemade. These include a basic wood filler, polyester body filler (e.g. Bondo) and sawdust/sanding dust bound with epoxy or PVA glue (white or yellow).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;General practice is to slight overfill, then when the filler material has set hard you flush or fair the repair. This can be done entirely by sanding, although there are other methods for removing the bulk of the excess (which I prefer to use myself as much as possible) here I think sanding is the ideal method due to the shape involved. However, the damaged area is a compound curve so matching the curvature of the repair will be more challenging than it would be otherwise and great care will be needed not to create a flat spot (or more than one!) which will be noticeable after the finish goes on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To some extent the second two goals can be done together, e.g. using the right colour of shellac, but they are often tackled separately. Doing this separately is what I would advise here, although some final toning of this corner may (I think is likely to) prove necessary to hide the repair as much as you'd prefer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is obviously just a brief description of the processes needed and not a full how-to. I strongly recommend looking at a number of restoration vids on YouTube&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; AND reading at least one good, &lt;em&gt;modern&lt;/em&gt;, book on restoration before going ahead here&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Preferably hosted by full-time professional restorers, not some random dude/chick working in their garage or driveway. While the latter are not all bad by any means there's no telling how questionable their practices might be, e.g. using waterbased products exclusively because they &quot;prefer not to deal with solvent odours&quot;, and regardless of whether they're the most suitable to the task at hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; There are plenty of slightly dated and historical books on furniture repair and restoration, and while some of the processes and methods used are applicable to today many are not. So for now it's best to focus on sources where you can do exactly as described, and there's a better chance they're using products you can still get today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-07-15T07:31:02.787" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9800" CreationDate="2019-07-16T00:30:19.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thomas Johnson Antique Furniture Restoration has a very good You Tube channel.&#xA;As mentioned above auto body filler (Bondo) works very well to fill the void. I use a mix of an oil based coloured poly (PolyShades) and artist oils and &quot;paint&quot; to match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start with an oil based coloured poly close but lighter then the final adding &quot;grain&quot; with an artist brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the lightest colour filler and hardener you can find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2019-07-16T00:30:19.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9803" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9804" CreationDate="2019-07-16T20:23:25.957" Score="4" ViewCount="232" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am gluing up the legs of a workbench. I'll be laminating the legs together using 3 planks and the lumber is all the same dimension. My question is do I glue up the middle plank with the gap for the mortise already in place or do I glue it all up then knock the mortise out afterwards? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5498" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-07-17T06:54:01.443" LastActivityDate="2019-07-17T06:54:01.443" Title="Mortise before or after glue up (laminated legs)?" Tags="|glue|workbench|mortise-and-tenon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9803" CreationDate="2019-07-17T02:54:22.010" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;All things equal I would leave the gap it is usually easer than cutting out the mortise even with a mortising machine, you may have to adjust the tenon to fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2019-07-17T02:54:22.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9805" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9809" CreationDate="2019-07-17T18:20:37.653" Score="5" ViewCount="19749" Body="&lt;p&gt;One side of our solid oak bed has detached from the leg, as the 4 hardened steel screws on part of the bracket have snapped clean off, leaving the rest of the screw buried in the wood, about 0.5-1.0mm below the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should I go about extracting the screws, so that I can replace the screws?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(All of the screw extraction advice I could find advises about a stripped head, not a snapped screw)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7617" LastActivityDate="2019-07-18T23:58:29.760" Title="Extract snapped screw buried in wood (not just stripped head)" Tags="|furniture|screws|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9805" CreationDate="2019-07-17T18:37:40.863" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The typical way to do this is using a &quot;screw extractor&quot;. A drill, some metal drill bits, a hammer, and pliers will also be useful. A sharp centre punch might come in handy as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is you drill into the centre of the screw -- this is the tricky part, because you have to start with smaller bits until you get it to size. Then tap/turn the extractor into the hole until it bites. Think of this as tapping (reverse) threads through the screw shank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are videos and helper sites out there if you search for &quot;screw extractor&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there isn't much shank to bite into like this, you will probably have to drill out the metal completely and then fill the void with a hardwood plug and glue, and then re-drill the hole suitable for the fastener you want to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-07-17T18:54:07.287" LastActivityDate="2019-07-17T18:54:07.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9808" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-17T21:59:58.520" Score="2" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;A typical finish we do on walnut is staining with Old Masters Natural Walnut stain (sprayed and wiped) and then 2 coats of a waterborne poly on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fabulous finish. However a couple of times we have encountered some blotchy areas after the first coat of clear is applied. Before the clear the stain looks uniform with no visible defects. These spots or areas are now devoid of the stain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It kind of looks like some diluted glue had seeped into the grain. But if it was glue then the stain wouldn’t have taken and have been visible prior to applying the clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas out there or perhaps someone has seen this as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7618" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-07-19T06:38:12.047" LastActivityDate="2019-07-19T06:38:12.047" Title="Problem with walnut finish" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9805" CreationDate="2019-07-18T09:26:43.590" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe there are six ways you can go when you break or strip a screw:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;screw extractors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;left-handed drill bits&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;do something to the top of the broken screw that would allow you to extract it conventionally&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;plug cutter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;drill adjacent holes to allow the screw stub to be grabbed by pliers and turned&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ignore the broken screw(s) and re-site the relevant fixing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes the choice of what to do is based on expedience, sometimes it's based on the desire not to damage the surrounding area (screws can be mounted on show surfaces) but thankfully this doesn't apply to you so your options are open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Screw extractors and left-handed drill bits rely on a simple principle, that their left-hand threading matches the withdrawal direction for normal screws so driving them in acts to unscrew a stripped/broken screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Option 1&lt;/strong&gt; I think is out here, unless the screws are particularly beefy (which I'm guessing they aren't otherwise their heads wouldn't have sheared clean off!) as IME screw extractors are only really viable if the head is stripped. Once you break that off there's just not enough steel left for screw extractors to work well, or at all — the head of the extractor has to go into a drilled hole in the stub of screw&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. So for direct extraction that leaves &lt;strong&gt;option 2&lt;/strong&gt;, left-handed drill bits, and you have to drill a hole anyway.... I've never used these but seen some demos online and they can work exactly like you'd want, but I think it's inevitable that this will vary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3&lt;/strong&gt; nearly always results in damage to the surrounding surface, but since this is a bed bracket this may not be a big deal here. One of the simplest versions of this technique involves cutting a slot in the top of the screw using a cutting disk mounted in a Dremel-type drill. The screw can then be extracted using a normal flat-head screwdriver. This works well for screws that aren't stuck, but the longer the screw is the less chance you have of it working, and ditto if the screws have rusted (even a little) or the wood just has a particularly good hold on them (often the case with hardwoods).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to &lt;strong&gt;option 4&lt;/strong&gt; which is pretty self-explanatory, you drill out a plug of wood that contains the broken screw&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. This works great usually, but a largish repair is needed afterward. So while you're virtually guaranteed to be able to get the screw out it's more work overall so it is reasonable that this often isn't the first thing many try, but it always remains a great fallback option. After removing the plug you can repair the hole with a good filler&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; but it's considered best practice to fill the holes with wood, so you glue in a dowel or face-grain plug&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt;. Then after the glue has fully dried you drill new pilot holes and install new screws. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;5&lt;/strong&gt; is crude but can be effective. It's best to use fine-tipped or needle-nose pliers but even so it makes a mess of the wood surface that requires a fair bit of repair work. But where the surface won't be seen (as here) this is certainly an option worth considering and easier to manage than cutting out a plug of wood. Also far cheaper and faster if those are important factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Option 6&lt;/strong&gt; I would presume isn't viable here as you have three other mounting locations that you need to align to, and repositioning all four probably isn't possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;One additional point re. this bed&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I would take the opportunity to remove and replace the matching screws on the other bracket(s) as they may be defective or unsuited to the load requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Which is ideally perfectly centred, not always easy to do. So in addition to the screw extractors themselves you have to have some appropriate drill bits and you really need a centre punch too. If you don't have any of these already this is a lot to buy just for a few stripped screws although of course they all have potential future uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Take out a matching screw from another bracket to determine the depth of plug you need to cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Some fillers are strong enough to accept the replacement screws, e.g. Durham's water putty and epoxies (homemeade or commercial) both of which can be coloured to more closely match the surrounding wood. Note that on a show surface putty will always be visible, no matter how good the colour match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt; Face-grain plugs are normally to be preferred if possible as they are both aesthetically more pleasing and provide a firmer anchor for screws (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/7898/endgrain-screw-withdrawal-force&quot;&gt;this Q&amp;amp;A&lt;/a&gt; for more on this). I mention this for completeness and for the benefit of future searchers whose requirements may be different, here the aesthetics are irrelevant (surface hidden by bracket) and the strength advantage of face-grain plugs over dowels may not be needed because the force exerted will be largely at 90° to the screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-07-18T09:26:43.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9812" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9814" CreationDate="2019-07-20T17:03:27.193" Score="1" ViewCount="309" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to mount this piece of plywood in such a way that it is reasonably removable.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zeylW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zeylW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I first need to true up the edges of the wood and that is difficult because of its small size, 8&quot; x 12&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a table saw, circular saw, and reciprocating saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to avoid the table saw because of its weight and bulk and because it is not on a stand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I true up the wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4752" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2019-07-22T19:17:17.817" LastActivityDate="2019-07-22T19:35:42.353" Title="True up small piece of wood" Tags="|wood|square|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9812" CreationDate="2019-07-21T02:47:05.843" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only suggestions that I would have would be an auxiliary fence on your miter gauge, a cross cut sled, or (as Graphus said) push blocks with you rip fence but only on the long side true the short sides a cross cut sled or your miter gauge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although I think the table saw would be best using an edge guide with the circular saw would also work with careful setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/ttxU494qtpQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/ttxU494qtpQ&lt;/a&gt;   cross cut sled or simpler will also work&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2019-07-21T02:47:05.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9812" CreationDate="2019-07-21T05:27:55.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given your available power tools &lt;em&gt;(and the stand-less state of the table saw which would be appropriate if it were set up properly and if you were comfortable using it)&lt;/em&gt;, I would suggest using hand tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use an 8-inch or larger carpenter's triangle with one edge flat against one of the long sides to draw a squared up edge along each of the 8-inch sides.  Then secure the wood in &#xA;a workbench vice (or clamped off the edge of a sturdy table) to hold it motionless while you follow each of those drawn lines with a sharp hand saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once those two 8-inch sides are square to one of the 12-inch sides, use a tape measure to find a point equally distant down each of those 8-inch sides.  Use a straight edge and a pencil to connect those two points, then re-secure the vice/clamp and reapply the hand saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are done, sand all cut surfaces to the desired smoothness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="147" LastActivityDate="2019-07-21T05:27:55.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9812" CreationDate="2019-07-21T08:17:07.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How can I true up the wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By sanding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the tools listed are the only ones available and the table saw is ruled out sanding is the only alternative I can think of. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither the circular saw nor the reciprocating saw are capable of the required accuracy. In theory a decent circular saw is but we don't know if yours is that good and you can't directly use one on a piece of this size, so you'd need to carefully attach it to a larger sacrificial piece and saw through both and that's just crazy to square up a small piece of plywood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So sanding it is. Start coarse, no finer than 80 grit and possibly rougher than this if you have much material to remove from one corner (although it looks pretty close to square in the photo it's hard to judge). Finish at 180-220 grit, there's unlikely to be any benefit to going finer than this. &lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; watch for splintering at the corners, you may need to sand inwards from every corner to completely avoid this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-07-22T19:35:42.353" LastActivityDate="2019-07-22T19:35:42.353" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9816" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9819" CreationDate="2019-07-21T16:53:20.367" Score="2" ViewCount="8702" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've applied Water Based Varathane Ultimate Polyurethane to some desktops. I intend to apply 3 coats. The instructions say drying time is 2 hours. Can I sand the finish after 2 hours or do I have to wait 24 hours? The location is very dry and warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7629" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-07-22T19:03:43.187" LastActivityDate="2019-07-22T19:03:43.187" Title="When can I sand water based polyurethane?" Tags="|finishing|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1609" CreationDate="2019-07-21T19:21:45.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the UK we're taught that grooved planes were used on particularly resinous timbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7630" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-07-22T22:49:56.930" LastActivityDate="2019-07-22T22:49:56.930" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5073" CreationDate="2019-07-22T02:59:57.180" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the same thing with a Hitachi.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made an adapter sole plate (rushed for time) and fitted it underneath using the holes in the original to secure it. I secured thin plywood to the adapter plate around the original base/sole to maintain its exact position when removing/replacing the adapter plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then plunge cut through the new base to get blade clearance. Lastly, I removed the adapter plate and squared up the sides with the slot cut by the plunging blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be careful though as the blade guard will not return to cover the blade (unless you cut a larger slot in the adapter plate to allow it to travel through).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you will lose some depth of cut - thick adapter plate, more loss; thin adapter, less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In time I will make a new sole plate from more rigid aluminium and beef up the pivots, the bevel gauge &amp;amp; lock screws and make a fine adjustment screws for paralleling the blade and setting zero point references.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7631" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-07-22T22:50:11.673" LastActivityDate="2019-07-22T22:50:11.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9816" CreationDate="2019-07-22T07:47:53.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When can I sand water based polyurethane?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it's dry enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Product directions give us typical/average drying and curing times for finishes but they're just that, typical. Higher and lower humidity, high and low temps and other factors determine how quickly something actually dries. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in your case, given the conditions you describe, two hours could easily be sufficient. But bear the following details in mind, especially because of the &lt;em&gt;other factors&lt;/em&gt; which often throw finishers a curve ball.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How to tell&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In short, a finish is hard enough to sand when it produces a dry white powder on the abrasive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A finish that's sandable will feel dry and hard and not the least bit sticky. But those alone aren't indicators that drying has progressed far enough, the production of a dry white or light-coloured powder during sanding is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This stage will usually also mean it doesn't easily clog paper, form &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1876/what-are-these-brown-spots-on-my-sandpaper&quot;&gt;corns&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;em&gt;become&lt;/em&gt; sticky as a result of the sanding operation&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;But do I need to sand?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is one of the key questions when you're applying a film finish, these days it's too easy to get the impression that there's an actual need to sand thoroughly between coats. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Sand just enough to accomplish what you set out to do and no more.&lt;/em&gt; It's very easy, especially with power sanding, to get carried away and sand more than necessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the only reasons to sand between coats is to de-nib the surface so that's what you're doing, removing dust nibs. Nothing else. You're &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; trying to produce a uniform scratch pattern over the whole surface&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. And de-nibbing doesn't even have to involve sanding at all — it can be done by careful scraping with a razorblade, rubbing with nylon scrubbies or Scotch-Brite, steel wool&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; and &lt;em&gt;even the rough side of brown paper&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if you are sanding to help produce a flat surface you still might not need to sand between every coat, bar sanding lightly after the first coat (which often raises the grain to some degree) all sanding can be done in a single step at the end prior to buffing/polishing to restore shine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; But do be aware that power sanding (as well as fast hand sanding) can general heat that can start these processes off when otherwise the finish is ready for light sanding. In general sanding between coats should exclusively be a hand-sanding operation, and done slowly, although this is frequently not the case these days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Doing this when not necessary wastes time and wastes finish since you're needlessly removing some from the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Steel wool is generally best avoided on waterbased finishes because of the potential for a spec of steel to remain behind and rust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-07-22T07:47:53.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9820" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-22T13:56:30.697" Score="1" ViewCount="111" Body="&lt;p&gt;I arrived in Canada/Montreal about a week ago, and want to make/ create some wooden projects, therefore I went to some wood suppliers like HomeDepot, RenoDepot, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The average price of 8*4*3/4 plywood is around $50, but the cost of each cut in that stores is about $2. as far as I checked my plan, the price of my project's cutting is almost double of material. Another option is to rent the portable Table-Saw for $40 daily. without any doubt, they are not accurate not suitable for cutting sheets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any shop/Workshop in Montreal that gives me/rent their facilities to cut these sheets myself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2913" LastActivityDate="2019-07-22T14:30:03.877" Title="Woodworking shops in Montreal,Canada" Tags="|table-saw|plywood|cutting|shop|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2019-08-06T15:45:04.753" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9820" CreationDate="2019-07-22T14:30:03.877" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a quick search using the terms &quot;makerspace toronto&quot; and came up with a number of links. One of the links is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.makodesign.com/blog/2018/08/31/top-makerspace-toronto/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;collection of locations&lt;/a&gt; in the area. In such a metropolitan area as Toronto, you'll likely find a makerspace with a table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, makers in such organizations may have personally owned equipment. Our local makerspace does not have a table saw (it's a public library) but I do and so does at least one other member.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hang around, make a friend or two and get the word out regarding your project. We makers tend to enjoy helping others make things!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2019-07-22T14:30:03.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9686" CreationDate="2019-07-23T02:04:59.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Here's what I did&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's been cold and wet here so it was a while before I could get back to finish this. Here is what I ended up doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Added a second coat to the lighter sections. &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This was closer but still not identical.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heavily sanded the darker section once fully dried. &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allowing it to dry prevented it from gumming up the sandpaper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This removed the darkest parts but also made it patchy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lightly sanded the entire piece. &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This was to give a unified starting point for the next step.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Applied another coat to the entire piece.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carefully followed the instructions for this step.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brought entire piece closer to the original darker colour.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Applied a matte clear coat.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Further unified the colour and finish of the piece.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Provided a protective finish.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The end result was still noticeable but not so bad that I can't live with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7500" LastActivityDate="2019-07-23T02:04:59.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9824" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-23T15:24:31.537" Score="4" ViewCount="567" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some friends of mine are getting married in the fall and I want to make them something more unique than a set of martini glasses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got this idea to make bookends for them out of solid blocks of green wood--something simple as I'm a relative novice, likely either cubes 4&quot; or so, or maybe longer blocks or rounds from a branch. My thinking is that as the wood dries, it will crack/warp, revealing a character that's unique to the block of wood and the environment in which it is kept. My basic question is, will this work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never worked with green wood before and so I have a couple other questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will blocks that big change the way I want them to? I understand that thinner boards will warp and crack, but will the changes on something this thick (4+ inches) be noticeable?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there certain features of the wood (grain, location in the log, etc) that I should look for when picking out blocks to shape? Is there a way to sort of predict how the wood will change as it dries (everything I've seen is for planks, but I want to use something thicker)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do certain woods have more movement than others? I'm located in the mid-Atlantic, and ideally it'd be something native to the region.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ideally, these pieces would be something that are constantly changing over the life of my friends' marriage, but I know that at some point the wood will become stable. Is there any way to slow the drying process down so that it takes years instead of months?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Has anyone done this sort of thing or worked with green wood and can give me some pointers/tips?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7637" LastActivityDate="2019-07-25T18:49:52.197" Title="Working with Green wood" Tags="|green-wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9825" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9828" CreationDate="2019-07-23T16:54:18.220" Score="5" ViewCount="2233" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a workbench top using 2x4s of douglas fir laminated face to face and a hand plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that the quality of the glue-up is going to be a function of the clamp strength, the flatness of the glue face, and the glue coverage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is, how flat do I need the glued faces to be? I'm measuring with the corner of my plane across the boards at various points along the length and looking at the light that makes it through. But I'm not sure what is a &quot;flat enough&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips or rules of thumb?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7638" LastEditorUserId="7638" LastEditDate="2019-07-24T15:31:58.870" LastActivityDate="2019-07-24T20:37:13.110" Title="How flat is flat enough when laminating boards?" Tags="|hand-planing|laminating|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9825" CreationDate="2019-07-23T20:51:40.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My tip will have to do with the boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did the same thing about 10 years ago and congratulated myself for making a really thick and sturdy bench top 3.5&quot; thick, by laminating 2x4's from the big box store.  It was cheap wood.  I could tell it was not very dry, but hey.  How far could it go?  I glued and screwed the bejeezus out of it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Within a year it was filled with splits, gaps, and wasn't flat anymore.  I don't use it for assembly so this is pretty much OK with me.  I'd say, you can make it perfectly flat now, and have the prettiest glue joints ever, but if the stock wants to move, it will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this possibility doesn't bother you, use the cheap department store lumber.  Otherwise, spend the extra for decent kiln dried material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7614" LastActivityDate="2019-07-23T20:51:40.220" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9827" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9834" CreationDate="2019-07-24T15:16:12.047" Score="4" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just finished shaping a sword out of some pine and mahogany scraps I had lying around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like how it turned out, so I want to finish the bare wood in a way that will enhance its appearance and protect it.  However, I have zero (0) experience finishing wood.  So I would like some advice before I proceed!  Please keep in mind a few things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'd like to maintain the color contrast between the blade and hilt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'd like to keep material quantities down since I don't know when I will next be finishing anything, and I have minimal storage space&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't have any experience, so complex techniques may be beyond me!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I haven't glued any of the pieces together yet, so I can finish the blade, crossguard, handle, and pommel individually.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3RExW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3RExW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of sword&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Per suggestions below, here is some more focus:&#xA;For the pine blade, I don't want to darken the color very much at all, but just add some warmth, like the boards in this photo:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UKCnV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UKCnV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pine finish example&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the mahogany, I have my own reference.  Several years ago I turned a chess piece from the same wood, and my friend had me apply a liquid finishing product while turning the piece at high speed (perhaps because the heat from friction helped it set?).  The result is below, next to the sword grip.  I prefer this color to some of the darker red finishes that seem common, but for the sword I would like to use a filler or something to smooth out the fibres on the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pe4GE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pe4GE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Finished and unfinished mahogany&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The overall finish for both parts should be satin as opposed to high gloss and match in sheen as much as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7641" LastEditorUserId="7641" LastEditDate="2019-07-26T16:51:12.810" LastActivityDate="2019-07-27T06:56:26.370" Title="Suggestions for finishing a pine/mahogany sword" Tags="|technique|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9825" CreationDate="2019-07-24T20:37:13.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The question is, how flat do I need the glued faces to be? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you're joining face to face pretty flat is good enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were joining edge to edge it would be more critical, because boards are stiffer in that direction and it's harder to deflect them when clamping to account for any unevenness. But boards readily bend in the opposite axis, so flattish will usually be fine because only light clamp pressure is needed to close up any minor gaps&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something to bear in mind is that many people doing these sorts of laminations with 2x material don't plane the surface of the boards they've bought, they don't even sand them. It's quite common for boards to be glued together after being cut to approximate length and no other prep work. This isn't the way to ensure a good result, but lots of benches have been made this way and it's a testament to how good glues are that many of them have remained solid despite the shortcomings of the construction method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So essentially what you're doing with your hand plane is cleaning off the surface of the boards (a good thing) and barring any major twists or bows&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; you could be good to go after a light skim with the plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm measuring with the corner of my plane across the boards at various points along the length and looking at the light that makes it through. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You hopefully won't need them here but for future reference you could do with having a long straightedge and a pair of winding sticks for checking for flatness and wind (twist) in boards that you're planing. Even more so for glued-up panels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy commercials versions of both but they are easily made by hand in the workshop, in fact they have often been given in woodworking guides as good early projects for the learner woodworker. You can make them from plywood for dimensional stability and resistance to warping (use good ply) but both can still be made from solid wood as they used to be. Select good straight-grained stock, with no knots and ideally with rift-sawn or quarter-sawn grain&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you select the wood for the qualities mentioned the species becomes less important, even decent pine could be used. But they'll last longer and remain in better condition if made from a tougher softwood or from hardwood. After completion application of a good finish is advisable to help them remain stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or if you don't care about them being made from wood you could just use lengths of aluminium extrusion. Aluminium is easily cut with any modern saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; But use higher clamp pressure when you're doing the glue-up! You must use high clamp pressure to ensure tight, strong glue joints if using PVA glue of any sort (white or yellow).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Which ideally you shouldn't. It best practise to select boards carefully at time of purchase to avoid any with these defects (and others, including too many knots), even if this means having to buy from more than one location or building up stock from repeat visits over a period of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; The wood along one edge of a wider plain-sawn board will often be found to have suitable grain that's close to vertical, saving having to buy rift- or quarter-sawn wood and pay a premium for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-07-24T20:37:13.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9824" CreationDate="2019-07-25T14:52:20.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Full disclosure: much of this Answer is going to be hand-waving, because no one (especially strangers on the internet) really knows how a particular chunk of wood will react to unknown environments over time. There is experience that can be gained that will suggest how these materials change over time, but this will only go so far. This is not to dissuade you from your idea! Just be prepared to change your approach as you learn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like you are interested in working these blocks to the desired shape green, and then letting them check and split a little before stabilizing them. This is not an unknown process, given the prevalence of &quot;live-edge&quot; carpentry these days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Green wood can be easier to work with, as it is soft and forgiving. So, there is no reason you couldn't work these pieces to the desired shape while green. You could even soak the pieces in water to slow the drying while you work on them. Just change the water regularly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that the finished product may end up a different shape, and a little smaller than where it starts. So factor this into your design. Or be prepared to be surprised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, so now you have two pieces of wood shaped to some desired profile. Now you want to creatively &quot;cure&quot; it. This means time; perhaps even weeks. Let's assume you have weeks to wait. It may be better to control the drying so it is slower. I'm not sure how you might easily do this, but I've heard of turners (etc.) placing pieces in plastic bags to retard the drying process. This might be a place for more research or experimentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As they dry, they will check and split, and maybe they will split all the way through. Since wood is a natural product it is hard to predict how it will move as it dries. But, assuming it dries into some profile you like, now you can consider how to stabilize the pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many wood stabilizers out there, and some folks even make it themselves with stuff like &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyethylene_glycol&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;polyethylene glycol&lt;/a&gt;. Again, this is a place for some research. Pay attention to what carvers and turners do in this regard, as they tend to work less with dimension lumber, and more with larger hunks of tree. But, I'm assuming there are also tough poly and epoxy style finishes that could seep into cracks and cell walls in order to stabilize and seal the pieces. The idea is to let them dry &lt;em&gt;just enough&lt;/em&gt; so you can stabilize them. This is partly science with respect to moisture content (you might want to buy or borrow a moisture meter) and partly art with respect to how it looks over time as it dries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One caveat that I can think of is that as they dry they are going to get lighter and lighter. Maybe to the point that they don't really work as book ends anymore. A good amount of the mass of most wood is moisture, and many species will get very light as they dry. I think species like oak and walnut have more mass when dry, and my assumption is that you will want to stay with dense true hardwoods for this project, as expensive as that can be to make mistakes with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And an editorial comment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given there is (and of course there is) a Japanese art of letting wood naturally age and crack over time in order to put it back together with specialized carpentry, maybe this sort of approach might work? If this stuff start to fall apart, maybe figure out how you can use butterfly joinery etc. to put it back together in an artful manner. From this perspective there is a certain symmetry in observing a well-aged and oft-repaired piece of art as a parallel to married life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-07-25T18:49:52.197" LastActivityDate="2019-07-25T18:49:52.197" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9830" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-25T15:19:19.913" Score="5" ViewCount="2443" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for some advice. I am refinishing a gorgeous blanket chest but the wood has split at one of the hinges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems a previous owner may have tried to repair it, but it is not solid. The typical fix I read about is wood glue, etc. But I am concerned it won't be strong enough. Any advice? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My post-fix plan is to use torsion hinges (the other 2 mortises are in good shape).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/okVIV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YKIwZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here is what it looks like after the cracked piece fully split off:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IMBwX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7649" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-08-02T19:02:15.777" LastActivityDate="2019-08-02T19:02:15.777" Title="Repair split wood at hinge on blanket chest?" Tags="|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9830" CreationDate="2019-07-25T15:32:23.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I have done with good success is to use a thin CA glue (it comes in different consistencies, get the thin).  Allow the CA glue to fill the cracks as much as you can, then place a clamp on the board and squeeze the cracks closed.  It is very important to apply enough pressure to close the cracks, as CA glue does not work well filling gaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to work very quickly, so have everything set out and ready.  Test the clamps first to be sure they are sufficiently strong to close the gaps.  Use some blocks on the work piece to prevent putting dimples in it with the clamps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2019-07-25T15:32:23.623" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9830" CreationDate="2019-07-25T19:10:41.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/9831/5572&quot;&gt;LeeG's Answer&lt;/a&gt; is fine for smaller repairs that don't have to handle torque. But I'd be worried that this crack will just continue to move, especially with the constant pressure of the fasteners pushing out, and the hinges torquing the back over and over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the picture you provided it looks like an entire piece wants to come off as that crack moves in two directions and want to join up. Unless you can get glue all the way to bottom of the crack &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; also get the surfaces closed where the crack wants to hold them apart so the glue will properly set there (and without causing the crack to move as you clamp) I think this will just fail completely down the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is significant movement of this piece if you use your fingers or light pressure with a tool, you might consider just letting it come apart. This will let you apply a good covering of PVA glue to the mating surfaces and then carefully position and clamp for maximum strength. Once dry you can feather in the edges and refinish as appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only challenge here is keeping the patch from moving as you glue-up and clamp. Painters tape might be useful, and using the perfect amount of glue. Too much and everything will slide around too much. Too little and you won't get the adhesion you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But once cured, this patch will be nearly impossible to break; the wood will choose to crack in a different location if it wants to crack again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd then fill and redrill the pilot holes for the hinge hardware. Don't skip this part! Do a full and proper woodworker's wood screw prep here, or you might just create another crack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-07-25T19:15:56.610" LastActivityDate="2019-07-25T19:15:56.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9827" CreationDate="2019-07-26T09:51:49.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like how it turned out too!!&#xA;Tung Oil is a hard drying oil that brings up the natural grain in timber really well.  It is usually used on timber floors.  It is very hard wearing, usually with a full gloss finish. It does have a slight tint to it but will not go yellow like a lot of polyurethane finishes.&#xA;Apply with a brush, small foam roller or a soft cloth that will not leave fuzzy bits.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can use Wet &amp;amp; Dry sandpaper (400 - 600 grit) on the first coat while the oil is wet.  This will help to embed any timber fibers into the grain, joints or blemishes.  Once the first coat is dry, apply a 2nd &amp;amp; 3rd coat and use 800 - 1000 grit wet &amp;amp; dry paper while the oil is wet.  This will make it super silky smooth.&#xA;You can put as many coats on after this as you like to continue building up the film thickness.&#xA;To finish it off, you can use very fine wet &amp;amp; dry (2000 - 4000) with soapy water this time or a very fine cut &amp;amp; polish compound just to get an even surface and then polish it all with a lambswool pad to bring out a mirror finish.&#xA;I have done many jobs like this - A 22 foot long kitchen bench with 18 coats of oil, cut and polish at the end.  It came out with a mirror surface like a grand piano.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7631" LastActivityDate="2019-07-26T09:51:49.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9827" CreationDate="2019-07-26T21:37:11.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First I really like your craftsmanship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A satin wipe-on oil-based poly would be the easiest, using a good shop towel or lint-free rag the oil-based poly will give the wood added warmth and a very durable finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A satin water-born poly will leave the colours very much as they are. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use a finish like Danish oil applied while sanding (use a wet/dry paper) the slurry will fill some of the voids, this works very well wile turning and giving you a nice satin finish while bringing out the colours. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-07-27T06:56:26.370" LastActivityDate="2019-07-27T06:56:26.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9830" CreationDate="2019-07-27T08:10:47.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The typical fix I read about is wood glue, etc. But I am concerned it won’t be strong enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a valid concern and sub-strength fixes are common in these sorts of situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;it would be hard to get enough glue in there to achieve the desired adhesion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, in particular it's difficult to get glue deeply into a closed crack to set yourself up for a thorough bond. But there's another important factor and that's how clean the surfaces are inside. Old cracks on old furniture can be really filthy! But even with a crack on a recent piece the wood surfaces have aged, and only fresh wood surfaces bond very strongly, see footnote 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result breaking off the split piece can be advisable as it gives full access to the mating surfaces to clean them. This is desirable in every case but absolutely vital if a prior repair was done and old glue remains in the crack, and if it can be managed without doing excess damage. Some judgement is needed here but it remains a *gulp* moment even when you've done it a few times. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you can break the piece off&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Since sanding the wood surfaces isn't an option at least brush the surfaces down with a solvent such as denatured alcohol (UK: methylated spirits) acetone or lacquer thinners. I generally do this twice, because why not? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carefully test-fit the two pieces together (try not to handle the mating surfaces) and see if there are any bent splinters that are going to prevent the wood coming together properly. If you find any it's generally best to just break those off rather than try to align them. DAMHIK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you can't break the piece off&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If splitting off a piece is not an option there are still some worthwhile tricks to know. Clean and blow out any dirt or dust from the parts of the crack you can see. You can temporarily lever the crack open to help with this but try not to dent the wood with your levering tool whatever it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to getting glue in the crack, first off don't skimp on it. You're going to make a mess so be prepared for this, and you will be using an excess to try to make sure that glue has gotten to where you want it to be. Where possible this means glue will drip from the bottom or underside of a crack, it also means that you will apply it to the surface or areas you can access more than once during the operation as the glue disappears inside. Work the crack open and closed a few times to try to get capillary action to carry the glue along and downwards, then apply more glue and work it in from the top. You see another reason that superglue isn't a good choice here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glue can be blown more deeply into a crack by blowing through a straw or using an air hose, either can be surprisingly effective and sometimes will get glue through to the other side. Glue can also be worked into the crack with thin tools&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. With a crack that's open at one end you can also use strong thread or dental floss (unwaxed if possible) to carry glue in, using a sort of sawing action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;After glue, clamp time&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If using epoxy heavy clamping pressure is not needed which is another advantage with epoxy. Epoxies are also excellent gap-fillers making them &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; choice for damage repair in many cases, i.e. where there's missing wood or a crack that won't close all the way. You do want to squeeze the joint shut of course but there's no need to really mash the wood together, which basically you do want to do with PVA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With PVA you must apply firm clamp pressure to achieve a strong bond, so don't skimp on tightening them. My standard is that you &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; to use pads of scrap wood to protect the workpiece surface from denting (this also helps spread clamp pressure, which is usually desirable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the clamps are on and you've wiped up all the glue squeeze-out put the chest off to one side for the glue to dry/set and don't disturb it for any reason for a good couple of hours. Wait overnight before taking the clamps off if you can (regardless of the stated setting time if using epoxy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If in doubt, reinforce&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;We can't know how your fix is going to go. If you feel it's needed there's no harm in reinforcing the repair somehow. This can be done with screws or dowels across the joint, my preference would be to use dowels as they can be more easily driven in dovetail-fashion (at opposing angles) which directly counter any tendency of a joint to open up. Hardwood dowels are to be preferred, and 1/4&quot; (6mm) is the max diameter I'd use myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4151/what-do-i-need-to-do-to-prepare-wood-for-gluing&quot;&gt;What do I need to do to prepare wood for gluing?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Small palette knives, the small blade of a penknife, stir-sticks 'borrowed' from your favourite coffee place and bamboo skewers can all be utilised here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-07-27T08:10:47.287" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8225" CreationDate="2019-07-28T16:03:56.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because epoxy is a high build film finish, you want the surface to be flat and level before you put something else on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So that means either sanding the surface flat or pouring another layer of epoxy to cover the missed spots and the rest of the surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Epoxy will achieve a high sheen if you sand to high grits, likely wet sanding as you get into the really high grits. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2019-07-28T16:03:56.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9838" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-28T20:36:22.847" Score="3" ViewCount="5002" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I just finished building this bench: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mmsnf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mmsnf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ana-white.com/woodworking-projects/fancy-x-farmhouse-bench?page=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.ana-white.com/woodworking-projects/fancy-x-farmhouse-bench?page=0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like the bench everything came together really well and everything seems square. I built the full 8 foot bench and my concern is I have a slight wobble in it from left to right. I'm trying to figure out where to put some diagonal cross-braces and I'm not entirely sure where the best places would be. I'm pretty new to this woodworking thing so if I could get a little advice that be great. Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7655" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-07-29T12:24:27.303" LastActivityDate="2019-07-29T12:24:27.303" Title="How do I fix a wobbly bench?" Tags="|furniture|stability|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9838" CreationDate="2019-07-28T23:45:45.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your suggestion of diagonal braces is spot-on. You'll get the best results by having two braces spaced as far apart as practical. This will triangulate the structure as completely as you can. It doesn't matter if the bracing looks like the letter &quot;W&quot; or the letter &quot;M&quot; when viewed from the side. That decision should be based on how you expect your feet to be placed under the table. The second photo on the linked site shows a spread-out &quot;M&quot; placement which is likely to be sufficiently strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DPknD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DPknD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If creating two braces is not desired, aim for the widest spacing you can manage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Less desirable, but still a practical method is to route steel cables from upper left to lower right and lower left to upper right, with turnbuckles in each span. It's less desirable because skin contact with steel cable usually leaves skin behind, unless you use plastic jacketed cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2019-07-29T02:46:44.643" LastActivityDate="2019-07-29T02:46:44.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9840" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9841" CreationDate="2019-07-30T19:10:19.037" Score="2" ViewCount="201" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to start with woodworking, and am looking at power tools. I've looked at a lot of comparisons and reviews on Youtube, and most of them recommend that you shouldn't buy expert tools as a DIY. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I've noticed that the cheaper expert tools are about the same price as the expensive DIY tools. A few examples of what I mean:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bosch PEX400 AE (green) is about the same price as Bosch GEX 125-2 AE (blue)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ryobi RCS 1600K is just a bit cheaper than the Milwaukee CS 55&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I chose the companies above since they are DIY and pro variants of tools from the same manufacturer. That way I hope that I don't create confusion and discussions about different brands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is what I should think about when deciding if I should buy cheap pro tools or expensive DIY tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main worry for me is that I buy a lot of tools, and have to buy new tools in a year or two. I don't like the idea of buying new tools because I didn't do my research and bought good enough tools to start with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7663" LastActivityDate="2019-07-31T10:47:43.840" Title="DIY: Cheap pro tools or expensive DIY variant" Tags="|power-tools|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2019-08-02T19:05:45.927" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9840" CreationDate="2019-07-30T21:30:23.903" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The differences in price between any two similar appliances is driven by a complicated matrix of global market capitalism, most of which will be opaque to you, or out of your control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The prices at your local store will be driven by a variety of things, from a choice to use sintered or plastic gears during manufacture, to how badly your local store needs to move some stock because of the shelving deals they have made with a large transnational corporation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As pointed out in comments, there is no such thing as a &quot;pro&quot; or &quot;expert&quot; tools. That is, no tool is intrinsically for experts. Rather, such brands position themselves thusly via marketing. The distinguishing characteristics will be held up as examples of their suitability for the pro, but those characteristics may not be useful to you, and certainly will not necessarily match from brand to brand or model to model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, make your tool investments based on how you expect to use them. We are slowly building a wiki-like collection of first-time buyers info (there is one for circular saws, for example) that talks about useful features from a woodworking perspective. It's more important to know, for example, what sort of sole a saw has and how the different soles are useful for different sorts of work, than the colour of the body or the words on a sticker. (This is where a local makerspace or shared woodworking shop can really help. You get the advantage of talking to people about how tools work for them, and get to try things out for yourself. This is an excellent way to build up your skill. Never underestimate the value of what the radio folks refer to as &quot;Elmers&quot;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I mention in my comment, start slowly, and only once you have an idea of what you want to use a tool &lt;em&gt;for&lt;/em&gt;. Compare based on features within your price range. And always ask yourself the questions, &quot;Do I really &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; this? Do I really need this &lt;em&gt;now&lt;/em&gt;?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2019-07-30T21:30:23.903" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9842" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-31T00:55:54.177" Score="2" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;I apologize ahead of time as I am brand new to wood cutting and do not know a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am cutting wood that is supposed to be 14 inches long lets say, but when I cut it, I mess up slightly and it winds up being 13 and 15/16th or 13 and 7/8th of an inch. Are these pieces of wood still good to use or is a redo necessary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7665" LastActivityDate="2019-07-31T08:30:54.990" Title="Percent error of a cut" Tags="|cutting|measurement|circular-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2019-08-02T19:04:15.147" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9840" CreationDate="2019-07-31T01:10:27.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here we have a large retailer of import tools &quot;Quality Tools Lowest Prices&quot; there products range from dumpster fill to extremely good buys. Some are so inexpensive that if you use it once or twice it's payed for. I have some of there tools that broke halfway into there first use and some I have used hundreds of times. One of the high use tools was less than half of the price next one up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Random orbit sanders are a high use tool for me I have used of the very top of the line (very expensive) can not justify the price and some cheap ones vibrated to much, so some where in the middle. The same with circular saws some where in the middle, but buy a very high quality saw blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short look at and handle the tool, it should be comfortable to use. I have large hands a tool that fits my hands may not be good for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some times good used tools can be had at reasonable prices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastEditorUserId="5628" LastEditDate="2019-07-31T10:47:43.840" LastActivityDate="2019-07-31T10:47:43.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9842" CreationDate="2019-07-31T01:28:33.957" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is a picnic table no problem if it is in the face of a fancy hutch maybe, maybe not. Sometimes the project can be modified to fit, sometimes it really does not matter, and I have had to scrap a large part from expensive wood for a small error (ouch). Sorry for the clear as mud answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have a good board stretcher for sale? (no such thing)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the skills you will pick up on along the way is the ability to hide your mistakes or turn them into features.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-07-31T08:30:54.990" LastActivityDate="2019-07-31T08:30:54.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9845" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9846" CreationDate="2019-07-31T01:36:43.030" Score="4" ViewCount="1127" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm cutting a 900mm circle out of a 35mm thick hardwood panel using a router jig that I've built and a straight cut bit. That works very well for 90° degree sides, but I would also like to be able to bevel the edge, so that it has a ~15-30° angle to it all the way around. The exact angle isn't so important, though it would need to be less than 45°.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N4RbM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N4RbM.png&quot; alt=&quot;Side profiles&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 45° chamfer bit for my router, but the depth is only about 18mm, so that won't work on its own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current thinking is to cut the 45° using the chamfer bit, and then mount the circle on a pivot (probably using the same pivot the cutting jig uses), and use a belt sander to smooth out the transition from straight to 45° to an even ~30° all the way around - I can spin the circle and hold the sander fixed that way. I'm somewhat concerned that this won't be even enough though. A more geometrically precise method would be better, I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My other thought is to adapt the jig so that it can hold a jigsaw at an angle and trim the edge that way. It seems tricky, though, and I don't know if I trust my jigsaw enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7666" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-07-31T07:20:09.160" LastActivityDate="2019-07-31T08:27:55.953" Title="How can I bevel the edge of a large disc?" Tags="|router|cutting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9845" CreationDate="2019-07-31T08:27:55.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;belt sander &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A belt sander is certainly one way this could be done and it's one of the methods I was just about to suggest&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; after reading the first part of your Question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm somewhat concerned that this won't be even enough though. A more geometrically precise method would be better, I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the belt sander is fixed in place, has a hard platen and the pivot point doesn't shift there's no reason this couldn't be accurate enough. Circle-shaping is now often done via sanding, using jigs that allow the workpiece to rotate against a disk or belt sander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tip:&lt;/strong&gt; start coarse! You don't want to try to remove this much wood with a 100-grit belt, for bulk material removal you want to begin at 60 or even coarser and work up from there. I know some users would start at 36 grit for something like this as extreme as that sounds (if doing this entirely by sanding).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My other thought is to adapt the jig so that it can hold a jigsaw at an angle and trim the edge that way. It seems tricky, though, and I don't know if I trust my jigsaw enough&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could remove the majority of the waste with your jigsaw. You'd want to cut well on the waste side of the line because of the expected wobble in the cut at certain areas along the perimeter (as the grain orientation relative to the cut changes). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But even if you could get the cut really neat you should expect to have to refine the sawn surface a lot afterwards. This doesn't argue against using the jigsaw — you'd have a very similar amount of cleanup to do if the cut were done on a bandsaw, which is the saw many would recommend most highly for this cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hand sanding to finish&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Regardless of whether you do this entirely by sanding or not, expect to have to do a fair amount of hand sanding to complete the job. Use a block to back the paper&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. The two portions of the circle that are towards to ends of the boards will be tougher to sand than the sides as end grain is always harder than long-grain surfaces, so you'll need to concentrate more effort there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general there's no need to sand beyond about 180-220 grit, but for the end grain it's worth taking the time to go up higher, to 400 grit or a bit finer. End grain sanded to higher grits looks better anyway but it finishes better too (helping to avoid the usual tendency it has for going much darker than the rest of the wood when finish is applied).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember to slightly soften the top arris. Leaving it sharp would make the table surprisingly uncomfortable or even hazardous to sit at, press against or bump into&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;, plus finishes can creep away from sharp edges, so it's necessary to round them over slightly. I find a quick sand, just 2-3 swipes, with very worn 250 is often enough for arrises to stay looking sharp but be comfortable to handle. But you can give the edge a definite rounding if you prefer, it's entirely a matter of personal taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; My main suggestion was going to be to do it using hand tools but I'm presuming you don't want to go there so I'm leaving that out :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; If you don't own one make one now from a piece of scrap. You may find, as many have before you, that this 'temporary' sanding block will stick around in the workshop for many years! I still have the first sanding block I made, it's just a length of 1x2 with cork glued to one face that I had no expectation would last more than a couple of months and it's now over six years old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; I've cut myself a couple of times on 90° edges in harder woods like oak and this angle you're creating is more acute than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-07-31T08:27:55.953" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9847" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9848" CreationDate="2019-08-01T15:02:18.820" Score="3" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently in the process of sanding and then repainting all the doors in my house. Before I started sanding (the doors were white) it was quite easy to find tiny dents/holes or other imperfections. Now I've sanded (door is a salmon pink/gray/yellow all the different paint colors that were on there) and I can still find the dents and imperfections but it is really hard to see them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid I'll notice I've missed some after I've finished the paint job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to fill the imperfections with wood plaster so when I go to paint the door white again they won't show anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there easy ways to find all the dents/imperfection in the wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7669" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-08-01T16:40:52.170" LastActivityDate="2019-08-01T16:40:52.170" Title="Finding dents before the finish" Tags="|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9847" CreationDate="2019-08-01T15:07:22.677" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two methods I use for finding imperfections like this I want to feather out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shine a bright light at a low angle to the material. Imperfections will show up as high contrast reflections or dark shadows. Some places sell hand-held fluorescent tube lanterns specifically for this sort of thing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move your hand across the surface. Your fingers will find all sorts of imperfections nearly invisible to the eye.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) is used a lot in the high-end car-body finishing industry, and generally in many industries where smoothness needs to be assessed by eye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2019-08-01T15:07:22.677" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9849" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9850" CreationDate="2019-08-01T15:30:08.563" Score="4" ViewCount="1930" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently renovating my house and my first project is the doors. I've got some panel doors with very small edges, and I want to keep these edges nice and sharp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've put my paint skills to use and made a cross section (not to scale) of the (trim?) of my door. The red corners I want to keep sharp but it's quite easy to  accidentally round them and the green corners are difficult to reach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IKJg8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IKJg8.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can manage quite well by hand but I've got 11 doors like this and am thus looking for tools which will make my life easier. I have got a rotary tool and was looking at sanding cones: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EDZvs.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EDZvs.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However these are not readily available in the Netherlands nor do i know if it is the best attribute to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some advice as how to best sand this would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that I want to stay clear of chemical removers because scraping away the paint from this seems like a rather tricky thing. So I am mainly looking for sanding tricks which won't wear me out. However, if there is no better way I'll have to try it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7669" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-08-01T20:29:08.527" LastActivityDate="2019-08-21T15:02:16.423" Title="Sanding small corners of panel doors when refurbishing" Tags="|sanding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9849" CreationDate="2019-08-01T16:07:51.887" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One solution is to get some epoxy putty and press it into the molding you're trying to sand.  Depending on the finish you might need some packing tape on the molding to make sure the epoxy doesn't stick to it.  You can also add a wood block to the back to give yourself something to hold on to.  Once the epoxy has cured use a spray adhesive to attach sandpaper to your new custom sanding block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are willing to spend a bit of money you could also try attaching a (larger) block like this to a pneumatic straight-line sander.  I don't think this would really be economical for the quantity you're talking about though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use spray adhesive to attach sandpaper to anything you think will get in the cracks you're sanding.  Some good starters are putty knives, short sections of dowel, wood blocks, or flexible material like plastic from a 2-liter bottle (useful for faring small curves) or very thin plywood (useful for fairing bigger curves.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also pre-made sanding sponges with various angles on them, but they seem rather expensive to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2019-08-01T16:07:51.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5496" CreationDate="2019-08-01T16:58:04.217" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you feel like your saw worked better before you replaced the blade, then I would suspect the blade.  You say it's new, but is it a good quality blade?  I suggest picking up a new, quality, blade and seeing if there's a difference.  I recently went from cursing my contractor's saw for being weak and annoying, to loving it, just by replacing the blade, so I know that can make a huge difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Binding of the blade by the wood can also make a difference.  Are you using a splitter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if your rip fence is not parallel to the saw blade, you will have binding.  Check that out using a long and accurate straight edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7614" LastActivityDate="2019-08-01T16:58:04.217" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9697" CreationDate="2019-08-02T14:15:25.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am assuming that this has 'always' been this way and you just recently noticed it, because it looks like glue or wood-filler got smeared on when putting in the plug and they just poly'd over it.  It is possible that as the wood has aged that it has gotten darker making the contrast more obvious. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Graphus pointed out in the comments sanding it down and re-polying it are really your only options.  Whether you decide to rent a floor sander and do the whole thing, or try and spot sand with a hand sander is up to you, but I'm guessing with the color of the poplar in the photo, spot sanding will lighten it up A LOT and make it look like an inverted Dalmatian.  So my recommendation is either do the whole floor, or live with it as is...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2019-08-02T14:15:25.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9853" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-03T02:26:15.560" Score="1" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to make a frame for a smart mirror, I have only made the inner frame(in the picture, the sides are 12 inches, and the top and bottom are 28 inches, the monitor is slightly smaller than the mirror) so far. How do I get the measurements for the outer frame, and how do I make the supports to hold the monitor in place?&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qVC47.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qVC47.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The sides of the frame is 12 inches, and the top and bottom is 28 inches&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7672" LastActivityDate="2019-08-03T02:26:15.560" Title="Questions about making mirror frame" Tags="|wood|furniture|design|framing|planning|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="707" CreationDate="2019-08-03T09:39:41.473" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M6kPY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Roubo plan&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1lXjm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Roubo 3D&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost identical to Alexander Gruber’s answer, this design is from the great Roubo. It’s a matter of taste but it has fewer lines and uses diagonals for friction joints. Elegant solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7671" LastActivityDate="2019-08-03T09:39:41.473" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9855" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9857" CreationDate="2019-08-05T14:48:32.197" Score="7" ViewCount="8406" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Background&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am working on a butcher block style countertop / tabletop, and am wondering how best to glue the wood together.  The countertop is unfinished maple hardwood floor, with the tongue / groove cut off, flipped on its side.  So, the final result will be about 1 3/4&amp;quot; thick, mostly quarter sawn, 3/4&amp;quot; width strips.  The final countertop will be 7' long and 20&amp;quot; wide, with the wood running lengthwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(To clarify: I am calling it a tabletop / countertop, as I am not quite sure what to call it.  It will be installed on top of a half-height wall between the kitchen and hallway, and will be used as extra counter space, a serving area, and a 'breakfast bar'.  For extra support it will have three steel beams on the underside, with grooves for screws to allow for a bit of expansion across grain.  The ends will be finished with a breadboard end joint, although that is outside the scope of this question.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For illustrative purposes, this is somewhat how the tabletop will look.  Each strip is 3/4&amp;quot; wide:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1dTKz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1dTKz.png&quot; alt=&quot;Top view of table top&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan on the glued-up tabletop being longer than 7', and then trimming to length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will be using Titebond 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Question&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is how to do the glue-up in such a way as to eliminate any gaps where I glue the strips end-to-end in a given row.  I am obviously going to be clamping width-wise (across the 20&amp;quot; side), but am not sure how to clamp each row length-wise (across the 7' side).  I hope to do a handful of rows at a time (maybe 5 or so?), let them dry, then add more on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Some Possibilities&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some possible answers I have come up with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make a clamping block that includes some sort of padding (styrofoam?) underneath a solid board, so that you can clamp 5-ish rows at a time without applying pressure only to the longest one.  My concern here is that I don't think styrofoam would provide enough pressure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Just push the rows together end-to-end while I am doing the side-to-side clamping, and rely on the side-to-side clamps to prevent any movement.  I don't think that this will work, as glue-ups are always slippery.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a strip of rubber innertube that I use for guitar body glue-ups and individually wrap it around each row.  This is the most promising approach so far, IMHO - the rubber strip is very long, and should have no problems wrapping around the length of it 4 - 5 times.  My concern here is that I won't have time to get it wrapped up before the glue has started to set.  I suppose that starting with just a couple of rows to make sure I have time will be the answer there.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for any suggestions!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Edit after completion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks to all the responders, I did the glue-up and things are looking good.  A few comments, in case it helps people in the future:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 at a time was way too many.  3 was borderline too many; I found that 2 worked best.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need to plan your layout before gluing anything.  I laid out all the pieces to ensure that the butt joints were not aligned or too close to each other.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I tested my first few end joint cuts for 90 degree, and they were perfect.  Unfortunately at some point after the first ones my miter saw must have gone out of square, and the later ones were slightly off.  Nothing too big, but enough for a 1/16 - 1/32&amp;quot; gap in some places.  Sigh.  Wood filler has worked well for this though.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As hard as I tried, I was unable to get the glue-up to be perfectly flat initially.  Some of the boards were slightly higher / lower than the others (not too bad, the worst was less than 1/8&amp;quot;, probably closer to 1/16&amp;quot;).  This meant that I needed to plane more than I would have liked.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On the topic of planing, I got the surfaces flat with a toothed hand plane.  Only after it was flat did I use a belt sander to make it smooth.  My limited belt sander skills would not allow for me to get the surface flat if I had just used the sander... maybe others are better with the sander, but for me the plane was the way to go.  The toothed iron helped to avoid most of the tearout (laminations are very hard to plane due to the grain going every different direction).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I did not end up using the steel bars - as commented by Martin, this this is already a beast.  The breadboard ends will help to prevent warping over time, and from a strength POV I could jump on it without it moving at all.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's some pictures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During glue-up (the laid out pieces are on the left, and the glued pieces are in the clamps on the right):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/155Uq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/155Uq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a closer look at one of the ends before finishing (not great for looking at the glue-up quality, but decent enough if you zoom in):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AM3G5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AM3G5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Applying finish:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7TN95.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7TN95.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7515" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2019-08-19T17:04:39.697" Title="Glue-up for butcher block-style countertop" Tags="|glue|tabletop|clamps|butcher-block|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9855" CreationDate="2019-08-05T16:15:25.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd glue up the individual pieces first.  Use a dowel in the end to keep it aligned and add some strength to the end grain to end grain joint.  Make sure you have good, clean ends.  If you are making the cross cuts with a table saw, flip every other board top to bottom.  This will cancel out any slight deviation from 90°. Once all of the pieces are glued to length, then glue them together as you would solid strips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This allows you to redo any joints that are not tight (cut them off and re-glue), eliminate a clamping axis, and allow you to make sure all of the cross joints are arranged in a visual pleasing manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the final table top being almost 2&quot; thick, there should be plenty of structure to keep it together without needing the steel beam underneath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2019-08-05T16:15:25.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9855" CreationDate="2019-08-05T17:08:18.070" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My question is how to do the glue-up in such a way as to eliminate any gaps where I glue the strips end-to-end in a given row. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't need to worry overmuch about the tightness (or not) of these staggered end-grain joints as far as strength goes because they're essentially irrelevant in that regard. Occasionally these aren't even glued, without it seeming to undermine the glued-up panel in any way&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really the only reason to be fussy about them being nice and tight is aesthetics, and just hammering on the ends before the clamps are fully tightened up could easily do enough — that's all that many builders do and it works fine in most cases, as we can see from the closeups of their assembled tops. And anywhere a small gap does remain it's one that's easily tackled with some basic filler work (can give a nearly invisible result with care).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However if you want some system that would guarantee these joints end up tight you could add a pocket screw to them, the screws acting as individual tiny clamps at each location. Depending on your preference these screws could be left in place or removed after the glue has dried (after which they serve no purpose). &lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; if you don't own a commercial pocket-screw jig there's no need to buy one just for this project, see footnote 2 for options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you would prefer a clamping option for this long length and the strips of innertube prove unworkable you could use a 'Spanish windlass', basically a tourniquet, made from a long length of cord or rope and a piece of wood to wind it tight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously the end of every board within the field of the panel needs to be perfectly square regardless of what you do. If necessary shoot them square in a shooting board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also worth having a look at this old Question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4316/how-to-join-short-boards-to-make-a-longer-panel&quot;&gt;How to join short boards to make a longer panel&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Which makes sense, the long-grain joints everywhere in the panel are &lt;em&gt;at least&lt;/em&gt; as strong as the wood around them so there's abundant strength throughout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; See &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5112/substitute-for-pocket-hole-jig&quot;&gt;Substitute for Pocket Hole Jig?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-08-05T17:08:18.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3959" CreationDate="2019-08-05T19:15:07.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you were looking for finishing options rather than wood choice recommendations, I suggest linseed oil, Tung oil, another oil or some other branded product. You could also seal the wood with a coat or two of polyurethane, varnish, or lacquer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastActivityDate="2019-08-05T19:15:07.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9855" CreationDate="2019-08-05T19:27:48.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't worry about the end-to-end butt joints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you mentioned the right answer in your question. Make sure that the ends are square, put some glue on them, then as you're gluing up the sides of the long boards, make sure to push the butt joints together firmly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The butt joints don't have any structural significance (as long as they're staggered throughout the panel) and clamping pressure on the sides should be enough to hold them from slipping apart as the glue dries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're worried about the boards slipping while the glue is wet, don't over-apply glue. The less excess glue in the joints, the less sliding around you'll have. Also, using cauls and slow, evenly applied and &quot;not excessive&quot; clamping pressure helps a lot, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2019-08-06T17:06:31.877" LastActivityDate="2019-08-06T17:06:31.877" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9861" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-06T11:00:28.247" Score="1" ViewCount="56" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a garden bench with horizontal slats on the back rest, one of the slats is bowed. Has anybody got any ideas of how to straighten it out ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7679" LastActivityDate="2019-08-06T11:00:28.247" Title="How to straighten bowed wood outdoors" Tags="|wood-movement|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2019-08-06T15:45:27.043" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9862" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-08T08:49:56.440" Score="2" ViewCount="561" Body="&lt;p&gt;This round plastic object is inserted horizontally in the wood socket, then rotated and allows tightening the screw to fix together two pieces of my bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is this hardware called?  Can a replacement be purchased independently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/afK6c.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/afK6c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7683" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2019-08-08T16:08:45.203" LastActivityDate="2019-08-17T17:40:06.930" Title="What is this rotating joint called? Where can I find one?" Tags="|tools|joints|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9862" CreationDate="2019-08-09T13:47:27.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The hardware you are looking for is called a &quot;cam lock.&quot; The round, locking piece is the cam lock nut. It uses a corresponding bolt called, naturally enough, the cam lock bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2019-08-09T13:47:27.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9864" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-12T17:09:25.400" Score="2" ViewCount="622" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like suggestions of what size (diameter) and wood type to use for a project I'm considering. I want to make macrame wall hangings that incorporate plant holders, so the rod would need to be strong enough to support the weight of the rope/cording material and the plants. A macrame panel 14&quot;w x 30&quot;l weighs approx 2 pounds and I estimate approximately 7 pounds for the planter/soil/plant. I'm considering making some that are three panels wide, so a total weight of approximately 30 pounds, preferably on a 48&quot; rod. &#xA;Also considering making single &amp;amp; double width hangings, on appropriately sized dowels, perhaps 18&quot; &amp;amp; 36&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7691" LastActivityDate="2019-08-13T02:44:33.723" Title="Wooden dowel rod for wall hangings" Tags="|strength|dowel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9865" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9870" CreationDate="2019-08-12T21:55:04.417" Score="6" ViewCount="1782" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a small computer/writing desk. It will have a solid top, so I'm figuring out how to attach it to the frame to allow for wood movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I planned on using tabletop fasteners (Z clips), but I've run into a possible snag. The design only has aprons on the long sides. The short sides have stretchers a foot or so down from the top. So the only place I have to attach the fasteners would be on aprons that are running parallel to the boards in the solid table top, which wouldn't allow expansion along the width, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions on how to attach this tabletop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wtkw6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wtkw6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Topless frame&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7692" LastEditorUserId="7692" LastEditDate="2019-08-13T02:06:52.980" LastActivityDate="2019-08-14T08:07:44.137" Title="Table top attachment with aprons on only two sides" Tags="|technique|furniture|tabletop|wood-movement|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9865" CreationDate="2019-08-12T23:57:07.323" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, you need to protect against movement a) when it occurs against something that does not move similarly, and b) where there are distances perpendicular to the grain (wood won't expand much along the grain, only across it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of a) would be long grain lying atop a crosswise frame member, and a (counter) example of b) would be long grain lying atop a longwise frame member.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the grain in your table top is oriented to the long dimension of your table, you can secure the top along one side (screw up into the bottom of the table, use a cleat, etc) and then use something like your Z clip along the other side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7614" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2019-08-13T15:11:09.220" LastActivityDate="2019-08-13T15:11:09.220" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9865" CreationDate="2019-08-13T02:36:19.990" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might be able to use &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B06XZ7JLZ1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;figure eight&quot; table top fasteners&lt;/a&gt;. You put the screws in just tight enough to hold the top on, but loose enough to allow for movement in the plane of the table top. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastActivityDate="2019-08-13T02:36:19.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9864" CreationDate="2019-08-13T02:44:33.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest using hardwood dowels. Maybe something like oak, and about the thickness of a broomstick. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking 1&quot; would be plenty thick. You may be able to use 3/4&quot; and save some money, but I'd be afraid that it might warp over time in especially humid environments, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastActivityDate="2019-08-13T02:44:33.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9869" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12822" CreationDate="2019-08-13T05:28:14.743" Score="2" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a router and there's a plate on the bottom (required for the dust extractor attachment) which has a hole in it with a raised circular wall that protrudes beyond the level of the base. Is this normal? It seem like it will get in the way, but I don't want to do anything about it if it's supposed to be there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gAPkJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gAPkJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7695" LastActivityDate="2021-05-13T15:35:51.377" Title="Plunge router base plate has a bit sticking out - why?" Tags="|router|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9865" CreationDate="2019-08-13T08:21:27.053" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't use Z-clips, they allow minimally for movement in the orientation needed here. Instead you want my favourite metal tabletop fastening option:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V9G1f.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V9G1f.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Expansion plate&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are retailed under various names, I know them as expansion plates but they now seem most commonly sold as stretcher plates. As you can see they have slots in both of the orientations needed for use on the side-to-side or back-to-front apron pieces, and unlike other designs they work equally well in either position. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have difficulty finding these locally* a basic right-angle steel bracket/mending plate could easily be modified to work in the same way, by filing or grinding one of its screw holes into a short slot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*I don't know why these are less common as they're cheap (approximately 15-20 cents each here) and are the simplest to install of all tabletop fasteners since they require no groove or rebate/rabbet to be cut into the aprons. Maybe it's because they're relatively large (e.g. 38mm wide, ~1.5&quot;) and are felt to be unsightly, but who looks under a table?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-08-14T08:07:44.137" LastActivityDate="2019-08-14T08:07:44.137" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9871" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-13T18:42:43.940" Score="1" ViewCount="39" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased some beautiful bedroom furniture which is all solid aromatic cedar.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The exteriors of each piece (such as drawer faces and the visible surfaces of the bed frame) are all covered in a thick plastic-looking poly which has darkened the wood from it's natural matt sand and brick coloring to glossy dark manila and even darker orange.   &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The interior of each piece (such as inside the drawers and the wall-facing surface of the headboard) appear to be completely untreated and look exactly how I want the entire set to appear.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the wood is thick enough that sanding away the finished surface would probably reveal the natural wood that I desire, but the finish is very thick where it is present, so I would like to remove some of it chemically before applying what is likely to be several weeks worth of elbow grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question goes out to those of you who have experience refinishing aromatic cedar... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How would you suggest I proceed with safely removing this finish?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="147" LastActivityDate="2019-08-13T18:42:43.940" Title="Removing shiny poly from Aromatic Cedar to restore natural appearance" Tags="|refinishing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9872" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-14T03:37:49.987" Score="1" ViewCount="2201" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fireplace mantel or mantelpiece, also known as a chimneypiece, originated in medieval times as a hood that projected over a fire grate to catch the smoke. The term has evolved to include the decorative framework around the fireplace, and can include elaborate designs extending to the ceiling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KWYNK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KWYNK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Modern fire surround/mantel design&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7698" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-08-14T07:46:37.153" LastActivityDate="2022-10-17T02:02:43.110" Title="What is the purpose of a fireplace mantel?" Tags="|furniture|design|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9872" CreationDate="2019-08-14T10:04:33.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Originally, as you say, it was to support a hood over the fire.  Today it serves to cover the joint between the fireplace itself (usually lined with firebricks), and the rest of the wall.  Other than that, it is purely decorative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1646" LastActivityDate="2019-08-14T10:04:33.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9874" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9875" CreationDate="2019-08-14T17:51:33.153" Score="4" ViewCount="2299" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've &quot;made&quot; a table with plywood. Plywood thickness was 15mm. Here is a model (one remark - the 30mm distance is 85mm actually, but it doesn't matter at all for now).&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MaAaU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MaAaU.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I've used 40mmx40mmx2mm &lt;a href=&quot;https://mobileimages.lowes.com/product/converted/038613/038613285514lg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;corner braces&lt;/a&gt; for all the plywood sheets to get them together. My &quot;table&quot; is varnished with yacht varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The obvious problem I didn't expected was that 15mm plywood is really thin, so my table top sags ~1-2cm up and down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to ask you about possibility to reinforce the &quot;table&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thoughts for now:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;decrease distance between lateral ribs from 1465mm to ~1400mm (and cut down rear rib as well);&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;increase thickness of all the ribs twice - I'm going to get the same 15mm plywood, remove the varnish and glue each pair of plywood sheets&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;fasten additional corner braces&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I go with that, or there are some better ways?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7609" LastEditorUserId="7609" LastEditDate="2019-08-14T20:18:43.587" LastActivityDate="2019-08-14T20:18:43.587" Title="Is it possible to reinforce my plywood table?" Tags="|plywood|table-making|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9874" CreationDate="2019-08-14T18:22:34.570" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think that any of your proposed solutions really address the heart of the problem.  The core issue here is that the material you used for the top is not rigid enough.  1/2&quot; ply is not generally thick enough for large structures like table tops and cabinet boxes.  For that you'd really want to use at least 3/4&quot; (19mm) ply.  (Typically 1/2&quot; material is used for drawer boxes and bottoms.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moving the sides a few inches (60mm) closer together isn't going to make enough difference in the span length to resolve your issue, and thickening the legs or corner joints isn't what you need.  You need a more rigid top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One option would be to double up the top by laminating a second sheet of 1/2&quot; ply to it.  This might be trickier than you think, though, as you'll need some way to apply pressure to the entire surface while the glue cures.  With 3/4&quot; ply I would put screws in a grid every 5-10&quot;, but 1/2&quot; material might be too thin to reliably screw into.  Your best bet might be to stack weights (i.e. a pile of bricks) on it.  Obviously any finish on the underside would need to be removed first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to attach bracing to the underside of the table.  You could use the 1/2&quot; material you have already, ripped into thin strips, say 1-2&quot; wide.  Glue them to the underside of your top (on edge, perpendicular to the top, not flat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2019-08-14T18:22:34.570" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9877" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-15T01:25:53.647" Score="4" ViewCount="729" Body="&lt;p&gt;Long story short here of several rookie mistakes that have led me to this question...I have a couple of kitchen chairs that I refinished recently. I chalk-painted everything but the seats, and left the seats as-is, leaving the wood unpainted. I was not smart enough to cover the seats while I painted the rest of the chairs, and a few paint flecks got onto the seats. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mistake number 2 was using a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser to try to get the paint off, which ended up just stripping the finish of the wood right off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mistake #3 was trying to bring the sheen of the seats back to life with boiled linseed oil. It never cured and stayed sticky for days on end, so I finally took it off with turpentine, which ended up taking the rest of the chairs' original finish off along with the BLO. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here I am, with dull, unfinished chair seats, all because I didn't cover the chairs to begin with!! What's my next step? I would like to be able to just spray on some sort of clear sealant, since the surface area of the seats is small and I feel like painting on a new finish will only lead me to more imperfections. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need something heavy-duty like shellac, polyurethane, or polycrylic? Or will any clear sealant do, just to bring the shine back? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-08-15T07:28:16.773" LastActivityDate="2019-08-20T01:26:49.903" Title="How to re-seal a kitchen chair seat" Tags="|wood|refinishing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6547" CreationDate="2019-08-15T06:21:05.563" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would go with untreated wood and then just apply a good quality wood stain, tinted to whatever shade you like. Hint: It is much easier to apply the stain on all sides and surfaces BEFORE building the deck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7702" LastActivityDate="2019-08-15T06:21:05.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9877" CreationDate="2019-08-15T08:49:03.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few options for you here, surprisingly including doing nothing and leaving the seats bare&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I think you want them to have that finished look, and possibly to have an 'easy wipe' surface, so I would recommend using wiping varnish. Wiping varnish is nothing more than diluted regular varnish that is applied (doesn't have to be by wiping) and then some or all of the excess wiped away. This method makes it extremely easy to use varnish — no brush marks are possible, there's a greatly reduced chance of dust sticking to the finish and drying time is reliably short — so even first-timers can be confident of good results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend making your own rather than buying the commercial version since you'll pay a lot less it. It couldn't be easier to make&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Safety note:&lt;/strong&gt; paper towels or cloths soaked in wiping varnish are a fire hazard and can spontaneously ignite if left bundled up. Lay out flat to dry until they're stiff, or stuff into a jar or tin with a tight-fitting lid that has been part-filled with water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll probably want to mask off the spindles or arms of the chair near the seat before applying the varnish (this would be an absolute must if you were spraying as you'd hoped to do, and the masking would need to be more extensive). You could work around them carefully but you can proceed faster and more confidently with the chalk-painted surfaces protected rather than having to pussyfoot around them. But be aware that chalk paint may be somewhat friable&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; so there's a chance that when you're removing the masking tape that you'll damage the paint slightly. This would be even if the masking tape used were of good quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Bare wood is actually amazingly durable and especially close-grained hardwoods hold up surprisingly well even to heavy use — traditionally kitchen tables had unfinished tops and it's hard to imagine a heavier use indoors than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Wiping varnish is touched on in many previous Answers but full instructions from finishing guru Bob Flexner, who has done much to popularise it, are given in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5891/how-to-fix-very-light-scratches-in-polyurethane-finish/5893#5893&quot;&gt;this Answer&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Traditionally it definitely was, no telling what the modern versions are like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a few incidental and &lt;em&gt;for future reference&lt;/em&gt; things from the body of your Question that I'll tack on now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Mistake number 2 was using a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser to try to get the paint off, which ended up just stripping the finish of the wood right off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Magic Erasers are made of foamed melamine resin. According to their original manufacturer melamine is about the hardness of glass, so despite the very fine texture they are surprisingly aggressive. Note that there are much cheaper ways of buying these magic erasers that the name-brand versions :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If chalk paint is basically a simple modification to standard wall paint (latex in the US, emulsion in the UK and some other places) it's possible that it could have been wiped off using a rag dampened in toluene or xylene if either of those are available locally. The commercial products Goof Off and Oops! were basically one or other of these solvents but the formula may have changed in recent years do to tighter restrictions on VOCs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Mistake #3 was trying to bring the sheen of the seats back to life with boiled linseed oil. It never cured and stayed sticky for days on end&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Linseed oil needs to be applied, rubbed in and then &lt;em&gt;every trace&lt;/em&gt; of the excess removed by scrupulous wiping off to prevent a gummy or sticky surface. The on-pack instructions should emphasise this more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW linseed oil would have worked eventually, but a straight oil finish requires &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/6856/are-oil-finishing-and-oil-polishing-complementary/6858#6858&quot;&gt;many layers and lots work&lt;/a&gt; to get to even a half-decent level of protection, and the sheen is rarely very high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mean boiled linseed oil (BLO) here, not raw linseed oil which dries much too slowly to be of much practical use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do I need something heavy-duty like shellac, polyurethane, or polycrylic? Or will any clear sealant do, just to bring the shine back? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, note that shellac is by no means a heavy-duty finish. It's not very waterproof, is easily damaged by some simple household cleaning agents and is soluble in any alcohol. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your list here basically covers most of the &quot;clear sealants&quot; you could use, excepting lacquer. A better way to refer to this class of finishes is &lt;em&gt;film finishes&lt;/em&gt; because that's what they do, build a film on the surface (as opposed to linseed oil which is a &lt;em&gt;penetrating finish&lt;/em&gt;, which soaks into the wood).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So here I am, with dull, unfinished chair seats, all because I didn't cover the chairs to begin with!! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't be too hard on yourself here, from how easily the previous finish was damaged I think it's likely it wasn't in good shape, and if the chairs were not old it may not have been very thick to begin with..... many commercial finishes are vanishingly thin these days! This is in part to give a close-to-the-wood look, but even when a high-performance finish is used this comes at the cost of low durability and poor protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-08-15T08:49:03.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9880" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-15T20:51:50.117" Score="6" ViewCount="1516" Body="&lt;p&gt;First time poster so forgive me if my question is worded poorly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a wood art piece that I'm coming close to finishing. I plan on routing out the back of the piece to lay in some LED lights to reflect off the wall it will hang against.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, should I route out the back before applying the stain and finish so that the groove left by the router is also finished, or would it be okay to rout it out after stain and finish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7704" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-08-16T06:36:06.273" LastActivityDate="2019-08-17T07:57:30.527" Title="Should I use a router before or after my finish is done?" Tags="|staining|router|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9881" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9883" CreationDate="2019-08-15T22:58:24.603" Score="5" ViewCount="1532" Body="&lt;p&gt;From time to time I get hold of a piece of a salvaged wood stock that has been previously finished.  If it is a good species, I would like to reuse it, but have always been concerned about removing the finish with anything other than a belt sander.  Obviously it would be much easier to run flat stock though a planer or jointer, but I worry that the finish will either dull the blades more than unfinished stock would or that the finish will accumulate on the knife edges, dulling them and be difficult to remove. Replacing the blades takes time and money.  For that reason I have totally avoided using hand planes at all, (I spend enough time sharpening as is). I have used my belt sander more than a few times. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have made plenty of other mistakes over time so rather than running this experiment, I simply have avoided doing so.  On the other hand, I know there are plenty of others out there who may have tried this experiment deliberately or otherwise.  How did removing the finish with power tools such as a jointer or planer go for you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2019-08-17T00:09:56.263" LastActivityDate="2019-08-17T07:54:16.763" Title="Can I remove existing wood finishes using a jointer or planer without damaging the cutting knives?" Tags="|wood-repair|refinishing|jointer|thickness-planer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9880" CreationDate="2019-08-16T06:57:13.153" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My question is, should I route out the back before applying the stain and finish so that the groove left by the router is also finished&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just on a technical front this groove being finished imparts no advantage to the piece. Non-view surfaces on wooden items are very often left bare and this isn't just small areas or interiors, the complete undersides of tabletops were historically and still are frequently left unfinished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;or would it be okay to rout it out after stain and finish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think you'd want to. Some prefinishing can be advantageous in certain situations (e.g. for what will become hard-to-reach areas after assembly, inside corners, to help seal a surface against glue squeeze-out) but here I can't visualise any gain by doing so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And potentially you risk damaging the finish on the front when securing the piece for safe routing. There is probably a greater risk to the finish on the back as mentioned in one of the Comments, but that doesn't really matter since nobody will be looking at the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-08-17T07:57:30.527" LastActivityDate="2019-08-17T07:57:30.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9881" CreationDate="2019-08-16T07:57:16.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I worry that the finish will either dull the blades more than unfinished stock would or that the finish will accumulate on the knife edges, dulling them and be difficult to remove. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Assuming the surface is clean&lt;/em&gt; (no grit etc. embedded in the finish) I think the risk of direct dulling is only theoretical, because although a few finishes are very tough or hard they are the exception rather than the rule. And even very hard finishes like conversion varnishes are often applied so thinly that cutter knives would just go through them like they weren't really there (they're just a few thousandths thick in the majority of cases). And it's not like some woods themselves aren't very hard and/or abrasive&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The latter is a legitimate concern and it's why I believe it is most common for a finished surface on reclaimed wood to be taken off by other means. These days that appears to be most frequently with either a belt sander&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; or a wide-belt sander. Finish building up on the blades is a real issue, just as resin buildup from resinous wood species is, and while to be fair it is pretty easily removed I think this still falls firmly into the &lt;em&gt;prevention is better than cure&lt;/em&gt; category.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Another option&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Just to mention another alternative, old finish can be taken off using a suitable plane with surprisingly little effort&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;, with the advantages that it's much quieter than sanding and there's little to no dust generated&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A roughing plane of some sort — a true scrub plane or a similar-sized plane converted to scrub duties, or a traditional roughing jack or fore plane — can make short work of taking off even &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; thick finish such as many layers of paint since their curved cutting edges scoop under the surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of this scooping action the plane irons can stay sharp longer than you'd expect even when the surface is dirty because they interact minimally with the finish and are mostly cutting wood. And even when (not if!) a speck of embedded grit nicks the iron it's not a big deal and you can usually ignore it because the plane is not producing the final surface. These irons also don't have to be super super sharp like most people aim for on a smoothing plane, so when it comes time to hone it can be very quick — 30 seconds to a couple of minutes at most (I aim to get my irons back in the plane in under three minutes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you need to retain the wood surface under the finish&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Have to mention this as occasionally you do want to retain the original surface on older wood, under a clear finish especially but even under paint if the wood is old enough. The colour of the aged or 'patinated' surface has taken decades or longer to develop and taking off even a thinnish layer of wood from the surface of boards can get below this (all the way to fresh wood in some cases) removing some or all of the very thing you wanted the reclaimed wood for in the first place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in this case it can be worth chemically stripping the boards, despite the cost and effort involved. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;One last option, flip the boards over&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The underside of boards often have no finish on them and for some projects you could ignore the finish on the other side and use the boards almost as-is. In addition to the saving in work, you retain as much thickness as possible this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Many species have included silica, including some softer species like WRC that you wouldn't expect to be especially dulling to edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; When using a belt sander for this purpose if the finish is thick, e.g. multiple coats of paint, it's worth using a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; coarse belt you wouldn't normally consider, e.g. 36 grit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; It's also #curiouslysatisfying seeing the finish come off in long strips :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt; Something to be aware of removing old paint and varnish that may contain lead or other heavy metals, unless your dust collection is practically 100% efficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-08-17T07:54:16.763" LastActivityDate="2019-08-17T07:54:16.763" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9884" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9887" CreationDate="2019-08-17T11:11:47.323" Score="2" ViewCount="287" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have quite a tangle of cables leading between the internet router, television, A/V reciever and Xbox. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was thinking about building a box to dump the power bars and cables into. (UK plugs)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was worried about fire risk. The box would be ventilated, and the cables would not be tightly coiled inside it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think a fire resistant varnish (or lacquer) and hardwood construction be reasonably safe for this? Cable boxes on the market are generally plastic (fire resistant plastic), so my suspicion is that a fire resistant varnished wood box might be no worse off, but any advice would be helpful!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7710" LastEditorUserId="7710" LastEditDate="2019-08-17T11:33:25.940" LastActivityDate="2019-08-17T14:43:22.297" Title="Safe to make a cable organisation box out of wood?" Tags="|safety|varnish|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9885" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9888" CreationDate="2019-08-17T13:45:41.817" Score="2" ViewCount="468" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a lot of well-dried branches and I was wondering whether it was possible to turn them into constructional lumber by gluing them together as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cut them into equal length parts of about 20 / 30 cm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;square them so they all have the same thickness (about as thick as a finger)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;glue them all together in a brick pattern&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this glued together board be as strong as plates from tree trunks? By which I mean: could it be use constructionally?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if so, why aren't those kind of board produced on a large scale? I suppose it's better for the planet if only cut off branches are used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5492" LastActivityDate="2019-08-18T00:14:20.163" Title="Strength of board from squared branches as opposed to trunk wood" Tags="|glue|lumber|making-lumber|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9872" CreationDate="2019-08-17T14:02:03.267" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The picture provided is a bad example but the original purpose of building a thick layer of clay or stone possibly with tiles around it, is to hold the heat from the fire for a long time and provide heat in the room even after the fire itself has finished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The kind of heat that the stone gives is radiational heat, which is more comfortable to people than actual hot air. (just like radiators do as opposed to convectors) Like an infrared sauna, this makes your body warm even while the air has a lower temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most efficient and comfortable kind of fireplaces are not open like in the picture, but have a small opening with a door. this creates a more efficient fire, more heat, and more energy stored in the mantel.&#xA;Albeit less esthetically pleasing perhaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fireplace mantel in an open fireplace has another function of making it possible to heat pots over the fire. If you have a hook under the mantel you can hang pots there to cook food or make tea, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are thinking about a way of actually heating your house, you should not choose an open fireplace since the efficiency is only 10% (so you are mostly just heating the air outside your house) as opposed to a closed thick fireplace where the efficiency is up to 80% or 90%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5492" LastEditorUserId="5492" LastEditDate="2019-08-17T14:07:34.350" LastActivityDate="2019-08-17T14:07:34.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9884" CreationDate="2019-08-17T14:43:22.297" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Low voltage cables are not a problem.  On the other hand power cables in compact spaces will generate heat.  For that reason electrical codes call for specific size junction boxes in increased sizes according to the number of conductors/connections in the box.  I suspect that if you box is large enough to house a power bar, you will be plenty big enough.  Providing several ventilation holes will insure that things stay relatively cool. I agree with Graphus' comment regarding fire rating for the finishes.  It won't hurt, but standard finishes should be acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2019-08-17T14:43:22.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9885" CreationDate="2019-08-17T14:56:50.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Structural lumber has continuous, well connected fibers running through the entire length of the board.  Cutting those cells into 30cm/11&quot; segments will significantly decrease the overall strength of the board despite the overlap. The strength of such a composite beam would vary greatly depending upon the profile of the wood segmnts and the types of glue used, but would most likely be significantly weaker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your idea, however, closely matches the idea behind OSB (Oriented strand boards in which thin scraps of wood are pressed into a plywood sheet and used as sheathing in many buildings. OSB is not used in structural beams. On the other hand, engineered wood trusses made of laminated wood sheets (plywood) can be significantly stronger/more economic than standard wood studs and joists.  IN general, the wood industry wastes very little of the tree when it manufactures wood products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2019-08-17T14:56:50.653" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9889" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-17T17:34:25.630" Score="4" ViewCount="124" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a client that has me stumped. We installed a lovely new stone facade for a client, but their vision for the mantle has me at a loss. They like Minwax Carbon color stain, but want a deep color, non-grainy finish. The closest I've gotten is 2 coats on pre-stain conditioned Aspen, but it still has too much grain pattern. &#xA;Any ideas on other species (tried all the usual ones, oak [too red], poplar [too green], pine [too grainy]) before I move into colored varnishes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7711" LastEditorUserId="8085" LastEditDate="2020-02-02T16:56:49.673" LastActivityDate="2020-02-14T14:49:11.700" Title="Dark stain for a mantle" Tags="|finishing|wood|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9862" CreationDate="2019-08-17T17:40:06.930" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;available at most major big box home centers in the hardware dept. They are usually found in the rack of trays used for the myriad of misc hardware bits and pieces&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7711" LastActivityDate="2019-08-17T17:40:06.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9885" CreationDate="2019-08-18T00:14:20.163" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In basic outline there's no real problem with what you want to do, after all these days many panels are made in somewhat this way, except that the wood is from branches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Branch wood, unlike the majority of trunk wood, is nearly all what's called &lt;em&gt;reaction wood&lt;/em&gt; so it has lots of internal stress. In branches the wood that originally was on top is in tension while the underside was under compression, and when these stresses are released by cutting and shaping you get signifiant warping issues. This is why branch wood isn't generally harvested commercially for use in any length, but is instead flaked, chipped or pulped e.g. for use in manufactured boards or for paper production.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's certainly possible to utilise some of the wood from branches but not for this. Turning projects, stickmaking, tool handles and dowels or pegs are some of the possible uses for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-08-18T00:14:20.163" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9892" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-18T11:26:07.237" Score="4" ViewCount="19787" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to build the table on the photo, but can't figure out how to calculate the angle to cut the legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Table should be 2 m X 1 m x 75 cm (height)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2J7Dm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2J7Dm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5947" LastActivityDate="2021-11-08T13:38:29.453" Title="How to calculate the angle for the legs?" Tags="|table-making|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9892" CreationDate="2019-08-18T14:36:50.543" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Determine the displacement you wish for the legs. This measurement combined with the height, will allow you to calculate the angles required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H0HdW.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H0HdW.png&quot; alt=&quot;leg angle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To calculate the angle of the lower left corner of the white triangle, divide the height by the displacement. Use the resulting number to determine the arctangent, either by google or a calculator. For example, if the height is 300 and the displacement is 400, the math results in 300/400 or 0.75. The arctangent of 0.75 is 36.9 degrees. When I used Google to determine the arctangent, it was necessary to specify &quot;in degrees&quot; as the answer was first presented in radians.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the numbers are reversed, 400/300 is 1.333 resulting in a measurement of 53.1 degrees. You can see also that the reversal is the same as 90 degrees minus the previously calculated number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: even though the word &quot;displacement&quot; encompasses the entire frame, the measurement is only of the white triangle segment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastEditorUserId="3985" LastEditDate="2019-08-18T20:52:12.273" LastActivityDate="2019-08-18T20:52:12.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5217" CreationDate="2019-08-19T15:46:53.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an old question, but when I saw this I immediately thought of silicone contamination. Silicone is in a lot of modern products such as caulk and even furniture polishes to make the shiny look last longer. The problem is silicone interferes with wood finishes and a spill of it could cause the spotting shown here. The silicone usually has to be on the wood before the finish so without knowing more of the story, it's hard to say for sure if this was the issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is silicone it's hard to remove. There are silicone removers, but it takes careful use of clean rags wiping each spot while turning the rag as you wipe to avoid just moving the silicone to other spots. Ammonia can work, but it can darken oak by reacting with the wood. Another option for keeping the silicone from interfering with the new finish is to spray it with several very light coats of shellac to seal it in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What seems clear is that this is contamination or damage from a spill of some kind. Without more information it's hard to tell what from exactly. You say you can rule out water damage, but alcohol or other things can spill and be wiped up without obvious immediate damage. The finish does look slightly compromised all over, so a spill could get through then be compounded by UV rays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7578" LastActivityDate="2019-08-19T15:46:53.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9877" CreationDate="2019-08-19T18:49:05.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The one thing that is missing from Graphus's answer, and what seems to me to most directly answer &quot;I would like to [...] just spray on some sort of clear sealant&quot; is rattle-can lacquer.  This is a clear film finish that you can purchase in aerosol cans (similar to spray paint).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is probably the easiest finish to apply, as there is no mixing (other than shaking the can), no cleaning brushes, no brush-strokes, a very short &quot;open&quot; time for bugs/dust to settle it, etc.  The only things you need to worry about are masking off parts of the piece that don't want finish on, over-spray, and proper ventilation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The major downside is cost.  The container is much more complicated than a normal paint can, so it costs a lot more per area covered than most other finishes.  But it sounds like you're not planning on covering a large area, so this might not be a factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2019-08-19T18:49:05.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9877" CreationDate="2019-08-20T01:26:49.903" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would use a few coats of a good oil based wipe on based poly, it is easy and durable. That is my 2 cent answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know some like long wordy answers but I tend to use the simplest answer that will work. If more details are needed just ask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2019-08-20T01:26:49.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9898" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-20T17:42:51.470" Score="1" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;My current maple cabinets have a brown stained finish and I would like to darken the stain a bit more. What can I do to accomplish this WITHOUT needing to sand everything down and start from scratch? Preferably something that I can just brush/wipe on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1172" LastActivityDate="2019-08-20T17:42:51.470" Title="How can I darken a stained finish without sanding/stripping?" Tags="|finishing|technique|staining|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9899" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9907" CreationDate="2019-08-20T20:03:43.020" Score="1" ViewCount="1095" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first woodworking project. I've completed a large puzzle, dimensions ~ 62&quot; x 42&quot;, and I'm interested in creating a &quot;frameless&quot; frame to mount it on the wall. This would involve cutting and securing long, slender cuts (preliminary dimensions 1&quot; x 2&quot;) to a 1/4&quot; thick piece of MDF board. The entire process can be seen &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-4nex0K6xFI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The video uses pine DAR (Dressed All Round, seems to be an Aussie product) secured to a 6mm thick MDF board. The sides of the pine DAR are stained as well. However, I can't seem to find any DAR locally in the US. I've seen that furring strip is cheap and comes cut in dimensions I can easily work with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is furring strip &quot;structurally&quot; sturdy enough for me to use in this application?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a specific name for the &quot;x brace&quot; pattern being used here?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3xuEo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3xuEo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7719" LastEditorUserId="7719" LastEditDate="2019-08-22T14:10:27.143" LastActivityDate="2019-08-23T14:45:33.530" Title="Is it feasible to use furring strip to create a large frame?" Tags="|wood-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9849" CreationDate="2019-08-21T15:02:16.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ended up using chemical strippers, all the sanding options above are good but with the thick layers of paint it was too strenuous.&#xA;Still had to apply the chemical, strip it and apply it a 2nd time. For the small edges i used a special scraper for corners.&#xA;I did run into 1 downside to this: i did damage the wood quite allot while scraping away the paint so i did have to do a lot of touchups with spackle. This might be because i was a bit too aggressive on the corners....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps others&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7669" LastActivityDate="2019-08-21T15:02:16.423" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9903" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-22T20:23:33.590" Score="2" ViewCount="297" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering buying a new sharpening system, either the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-trade-ultimate-edge-reverse-running-sharpening-system-105529&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Axminster Ultimate Edge Reverse&lt;/a&gt; or a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.oliverswoodturning.co.uk/product/proedge/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sorby Pro-Edge&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I'm wondering about sharpening jigs, I've got chisels and woodturning tools, but I'd also like to put whichever system I buy to use on knives and possibly an axe. Some of that I could do free hand, but there seems to be jigs available for sharpening every type of edged tool and I wondered if anybody knows whether the different jigs are compatible between different systems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, would an Axminster knife jig work on the sorby? Would a Tormek axe jig work on either? I've little experience with any sharpening equipment before, I just know I find doing it by hand laborious and challenging!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7728" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2020-01-30T16:03:40.767" LastActivityDate="2020-10-26T18:06:15.610" Title="Are sharpening jigs reasonably universal?" Tags="|sharpening|chisel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2020-10-27T17:21:41.550" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9904" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-23T02:14:02.603" Score="1" ViewCount="869" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for some guidance, I am making a model/toy car for my school project and I am not sure what woods are suitable to use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7729" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-08-25T10:53:08.877" LastActivityDate="2020-03-27T19:38:18.387" Title="What kind of woods can I use to make a wooden model car?" Tags="|wood|design|tools|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9904" CreationDate="2019-08-23T03:20:28.567" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pine (or some other softwood) would be a good choice. It will be relatively easy to cut and shape with simple hand tools and will take paint well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally, there is a &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pinewood_derby&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pinewood derby&lt;/a&gt;&quot; that takes place periodically in conjunction with the Boy Scouts that is essentially a race for model cars which are made from roughly identical blocks of pine that each participant (or more accurately, each participant's father or grandfather) &quot;machines&quot; into a unique race car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zmgB8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zmgB8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Official Pinewood Derby Car Kit&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also many other species of wood that you might consider if the natural appearance of the wood is important to your finished model too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on the tools you have to work with, what you intend to do with the finished car, etc. Balsa wood is very soft, very light, and easy to carve. On the other hand, oak is very hard, pretty heavy, and more difficult to work with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2020-03-27T19:38:18.387" LastActivityDate="2020-03-27T19:38:18.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9899" CreationDate="2019-08-23T14:38:54.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use 1x2s if you can find some that are good quality or could rip some from wider boards. The 1x2 furring strips I've seen tend to be inferior quality wood, and more often than not warped, twisted, and bowed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know of a specific name for that kind of frame construction, but wouldn't be surprised if there was one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2019-08-23T14:45:33.530" LastActivityDate="2019-08-23T14:45:33.530" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9908" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-25T05:50:37.380" Score="1" ViewCount="580" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'm about to order a Grizzly G1028Z2 1-1/2 HP Dust Collector rated at 1300 CFM. I'm unsure if I should get a super Dust Deputy to go with it. Will I lose a lot of my CFM's if I do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, a side question: does is matter if I buy a super Dust Deputy or a regular Dust Deputy? I already have a normal Dust Deputy, would it work the same if I just have adapters for it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7736" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-08-25T10:38:26.763" LastActivityDate="2019-08-25T23:27:44.963" Title="2-part dust collector, loss of CFM or not?" Tags="|dust-collection|sawdust|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9904" CreationDate="2019-08-25T11:35:56.680" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use pretty much anything you can get your hands on, short of balsa&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. Without knowing more details of the type of model/toy you're building as well as your location it's hard to give specific advice on wood selection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as a general piece of advice if you're brand new to woodworking I would suggest you avoid using softwoods, including standard 2x material or SPF (short for spruce, pine, fir). Even though this is a very common choice for beginners and &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; suitable for this sort of thing I would recommend you use a hardwood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hardwoods are not all hard woods (balsa is technically a hardwood!) so this doesn't mean you're in for some difficult work. Quite the opposite in fact, you'll almost certainly have a better experience shaping &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; smoothing the wood when sanding, and achieve a better result, if you go with a suitable hardwood &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two very good beginner woods are poplar and basswood (AKA American lime or American linden). These are soft enough to be easily workable and have a more uniform texture than softwoods, the majority of which feature pronounced soft/hard variation between the light and dark bands in the grain which can make them tricky to work with and finish to a consistent sheen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of what you do end up choosing, try to select a piece or pieces of wood with straight grain and no knots&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. In practice this may mean taking a long board which does have a knot or two and just cutting those sections out, discarding them and using the remainder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; The world's softest wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Knots themselves are hard to very hard, and the wood around them has swooping, irregular grain. Both very difficult for new woodworkers to deal with successfully and when they can be avoided they should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-08-25T11:35:56.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9910" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-25T15:12:49.593" Score="2" ViewCount="5275" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to add &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Parks-Pro-Finisher-5-gal-Clear-Satin-450-VOC-Oil-Based-Interior-Polyurethane-for-Floors-130522/202056454&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;polyurethane&lt;/a&gt; to wood floors to protect them from wear. The floors were already finished and looked fine. I sanded one floor with 120 grit sandpaper, and now the finish looks patchy. I sanded another for less time and the finish still looks more consistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the finish looks patchy now, do I need to sand it all down in order to get a consistent look? In other words, after I apply oil-based polyurethane, will it retain the patchy look?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the rooms that haven't been sanded as much and retains a consistent finished look, can I apply polyurethane directly without sanding it down further?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7738" LastActivityDate="2019-08-26T08:03:51.120" Title="Do I need to sand off old finish completely before applying polyurethane?" Tags="|sanding|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9911" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-25T20:03:47.603" Score="1" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;first time posting here and first time doing any sort of woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I purchased the Gerton table top from IKEA and it came pretty scratchy. So I sanded it with 120 grit sandpaper and applied 3 coats of polyurethane to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the most part this all seems fine, but the top level feels a bit uneven, and there's some small air bubbles all over the place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I was wondering what's the best way to smooth out the top level of polyurethane?&lt;/strong&gt; Should I try sanding it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked online but found contrasting ideas on what to do, so any feedback would be great to hear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7740" LastActivityDate="2019-08-25T20:03:47.603" Title="How to smooth out final polyurethane coat?" Tags="|sanding|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2019-08-26T15:15:58.603" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9908" CreationDate="2019-08-25T23:27:44.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As advertised, it seems that the Dust Deputy is designed to extract dust from the air stream before being sucked into the filters of a shop vac while the Grizzly Dust collector is designed to collect most of the dust in the collection bag. Using a dust separator to extract dust may only be desirable to catch larger pieces of wood that could get caught in the collector fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 2HP grizzly dust collector using 4&quot; pvc pipe (40'of pipe) with three gates and 10' of flexible 4&quot; hose to make final connections to freestanding equipment. I intercept large bits of wood in a metal trash can with a inexpensive cyclone type top. The system is pretty closed although there is some leakage at the trash can interceptor. If I keep all other gates closed, I get plenty of air flow back to the collector, enough to lift small pieces of wood such as a short pencil (don't ask how I know) up 7' vertically and across the balance of the system.  Whether you should get a 1 1/2 HP or a slightly larger unit depends upon your budget and how large (length of pipe and number of ports) the distribution system is.  I believe that a 1 1/2 HP unit should be adequate, but if you have the cash then I know that 2HP can work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2019-08-25T23:27:44.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9914" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9919" CreationDate="2019-08-26T07:23:36.380" Score="3" ViewCount="4046" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've bought an oak table to give it a second life as our dining table, our plan is to refinish it with (hardwax) oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was quite stained and originally treated with some kind of oil. So my stripping process up until now has been:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Soda-water to extract the oil from the wood took out some nasty stains along the way. (this was repeated twice)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oxalic acid (on the whole table) to remove a few black rings that I guessed were caused by some metalic pots.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I have a few stains left that I have no real idea on how to handle them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the current state of the table top for reference:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f05Lp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f05Lp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Table overview&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the following two kinds of stains that I would appreciate some advice for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some kind of glass shaped stain, maybe wine?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nMQ2H.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nMQ2H.png&quot; alt=&quot;glass shaped stain&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some kind of oil stain of where I think the protective finish was missing and something leaked through? These are in quite some places in the table and give it a bit of a dirty look.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mqDBz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mqDBz.png&quot; alt=&quot;greasy stain&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I can find online is primarily for fixing these kinds of stains after they have just happened or when there is still some kind of finish on the wood. So what should be a sensible plan of attack here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7741" LastEditorUserId="7741" LastEditDate="2019-08-26T08:13:34.927" LastActivityDate="2019-10-04T07:47:15.490" Title="Remove old oil stains from oak table before refinishing" Tags="|wood-repair|refinishing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9910" CreationDate="2019-08-26T08:03:51.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do I need to sand off old finish completely before applying polyurethane? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking no, you don't need to completely remove previous finish to apply more of the same finish or a different (compatible) finish&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there are some caveats. To ensure good adhesion the surface must be clean, &lt;em&gt;clean&lt;/em&gt; clean&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, and it MUST be matt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I sanded one floor with 120 grit sandpaper, and now the finish looks patchy.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the finish looks patchy now, do I need to sand it all down in order to get a consistent look? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without photos it's impossible to say, but even with photos we might not be able to tell for sure. It's sometimes very difficult to visually judge what's going on with a surface even when it's right in front of you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try wiping a section of the floor with a rag dampened in mineral spirits or paint thinner and see if, while it is wet, the colour becomes more consistent between the lighter and darker areas. This trick gives a preview of how a surface looks with finish on it, although it's not an exact match it does give a useful idea. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the result of the above test is positive then you're in luck and a fresh coat of finish should even out the colour. If it doesn't then you're really looking at sanding back further, likely all the way back to bare wood to begin again from scratch — with floor finishing this would often be the normal thing to do anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Side note:&lt;/strong&gt; in general if you're just looking to refresh a finish 120 paper is too aggressive, especially with certain power sanders. A finer-grit screen would have been preferable here, or a scuffing pad if feasible for the area being worked on and the style of sander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For the rooms that haven't been sanded as much and retains a consistent finished look, can I apply polyurethane directly without sanding it down further?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as their surfaces are clean and matt, yes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that despite the theoretical yes it's still advisable to do a test in an inconspicuous spot to see how well the poly takes to the previous surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Many disparate finishes are in fact compatible, although testing should &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; be done to ensure this even when there's the belief the previous and new finishes are 100% simpatico. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Traces of dust, grime, polish (&lt;em&gt;especially those containing silicone&lt;/em&gt;), waxes and cleaning agents will interfere with finish bonding and lead to poor adhesion, up to and including delamination (peeling).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-08-26T08:03:51.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9916" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9917" CreationDate="2019-08-27T04:21:59.330" Score="5" ViewCount="288" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to build this table base which consists of 4 legs, 2 leg-to-stretcher pieces, and 1 main stretcher. The leg and leg-to-stretcher shapes will be cut on the bandsaw, and will support a solid wood top with similar thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's a strong way to join all these pieces (or should I rethink the design)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first idea was simply dowels, but I find dowels hard to align properly and don't see them adding much strength. I don't have a domino joiner. The surface area is too small for a biscuit. Is something like a tongue and groove joint the right idea, and if so on what plane?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For scale the height is 15&quot;, the wood thickness is 1&quot;, and the cross sections to join are 1&quot;x1&quot; and 1&quot;x2&quot;. The grain will be running approximately vertical for the legs, and horizontal for the rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8RSke.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8RSke.png&quot; alt=&quot;3d view of table base&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: To complicate things (and justify the cut-off points) I've added fillets to the design:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gCvy8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gCvy8.png&quot; alt=&quot;Filleted version&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4709" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-08-27T19:16:12.520" LastActivityDate="2019-08-27T19:16:12.520" Title="What strong options are there to join these pieces?" Tags="|joinery|design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9916" CreationDate="2019-08-27T09:07:29.167" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK first off I don't think you need to redesign the overall leg assembly, there are many tables somewhat like this out in the world. And it should be borne in mind that this is just the base for a coffee table, it doesn't need to be that strong. However, I believe you do need to rethink certain elements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than the joints which we'll get into below there are two elements I think you have to change. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is the Y-shaped piece. In a single piece of solid wood there's no way to align the grain and make it strong in each of the three directions, unless you somehow managed to find suitable pieces of tree where two branches meet the trunk to cut these from&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. So you either need to use plywood or a lamination of some kind, or build these up from pieces so each limb will have grain running along its length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second is the projecting piece of each of the legs, this would have &quot;short grain&quot; and would be very weak. The leg-to-stretcher piece needs to be extended so that it spans the entire gap to meet the legs, probably joining the leg at a small flat surface. This also makes the legs easier shapes so they'll be much more straightforward to cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What's a strong way to join all these pieces &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than butt joints reinforced in some way you have numerous options here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could do mortise-and-tenon joints, that could be one of the strongest ways to do this but a fair amount of work. You might consider doing a M&amp;amp;T for the join between the legs and the Y-shaped pieces, but decent dowel joints at those locations would be just as strong and much easier (see final footnote).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finger-jointing of some kind is a possibility&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, something like &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sUC0a.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; from a previous Answer, but I think you can do better and save having to buy a potentially expensive and little-used router bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Halving or half-lap joints would increase strength somewhat, and can be further reinforced by cross-pegging, driving in a screw or screws or angle-nailing. This is the simple option I think you should go with IF you don't go with dowelling of some kind. Remember that to allow for the laps the stretcher and the corresponding projection of the leg-to-stretcher part would need to be made longer than in the current design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hesitate to add it but I suppose it needs to be included given their current popularity, you could use pocket-hole screws. And with well-cut ends (perfect 90s, very smooth), the end grain sized ahead of time and enough glue applied at final assembly I'm sure they would prove sufficiently strong in service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My first idea was simply dowels&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dowels would definitely help reinforce simple butt joints here. One centrally placed dowel can't do much to prevent rotation so some guides might suggest using a pair of dowels, but the small section of the pieces you're using I think argues against this and one beefy central dowel is almost certain to prove suitable given the actual requirements of such a table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;but I find dowels hard to align properly &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good layout, careful drilling and simply practice could all help here :-) You can give yourself a leg up by using a drill press/bench drill, or a commercial or homemade dowelling jig, to drill all the components rather than drilling them by hand and eye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another alternative is not to worry too much and &lt;em&gt;deliberately&lt;/em&gt; drill the hole in one or both pieces overlarge, so perfect alignment isn't an issue. Then you glue the dowels into one or both parts using a gap-filling adhesive (e.g. epoxy). This is what I'd advise doing here if you have any worries about being able to drill perfectly aligning holes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;and don't see them adding much strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't need to be that strong, but short lengths of hardwood dowel can be immensely stiff and add hugely to joint strength&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, dowels don't need to be made from wood. They can be metal, something that is becoming more common in certain woodworking applications with the wider use of epoxy which allows for very strong wood-to-metal joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; This isn't as silly as it might sound, in the past many such shapes were done using the natural branchings in trees and in some areas of woodworking this is still done today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Commercially that's what might be used in a similar design since they could mill the ends of the pieces apply glue and get them clamped together in double-quick time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; One thing to bear in mind is that the cross-sectional area of dowels can be similar to that of tenons and we don't tend to worry that tenons are weak as a rule. And in comparative destructive tests dowel joints always do well, sometimes &lt;em&gt;exceeding&lt;/em&gt; the breaking strain of M&amp;amp;T joints! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-08-27T09:07:29.167" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9914" CreationDate="2019-08-27T13:03:47.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would try treating the rings with a proprietary ring remover, then lightly sand the surface, and apply a coat of oil.  I think the oil stains will disappear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get an idea of how the surface will look after finishing by wiping white spirit over it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1646" LastActivityDate="2019-08-27T13:03:47.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9914" CreationDate="2019-08-28T07:53:26.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To start I want to repeat something I said in the Comments above. It's entirely possible that no matter what you try (short of planing the entire top down significantly or running it through a wide-belt sander!) that some trace of the stains may remain and it is wise to prepare yourself for this eventuality. Reclaimed wood and previously used furniture always comes with this chance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a shame about the shallow recessed detail on this tabletop because it will limit how much wood you can remove. Despite this the first thing I think you should do is some sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanding will remove a shallow layer from the surface, taking some staining along with it as well as helping in other ways. Even though it sounds very coarse start with P60 or P80 grit and work your way through the grits to P240 at least. You may want to go to P320 or P400 because you're planning on using a hardwax oil as your finish (not something I would recommend for a dining table by the way&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;). Be diligent about removing all the sanding scratches from the previous grit before moving on to the next grit! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be pleasantly surprised at how much this step helps, but it's best to expect that it won't completely remove the stains and they're require further treatment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stain treatments&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rings I think will present the greatest difficulty, in part because they're fairly pronounced but also because their shape makes them stand out so clearly. If they are from red wine then scrubbing with a proprietary surface cleaner that contains chlorine bleach may be effective, if none are available where you are you may have to resort to scrubbing with a bleach solution using the rough side of a (new) household cleaning sponge. Unfortunately either may leave a small lighter spot on the wood, in which case you should treat the entire surface to even out the colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stains you suspect are from oil, you could try an old trick first and that is to run a hot iron over them with brown paper in between the iron and the wood. This can sometimes liquefy the oil enough to leave obvious oil stains on the paper (which show up much more clearly on brown paper than on white paper) and will clearly identify them as oil or grease stains. Unfortunately old oil may not respond to this much as it has had a long time to oxidise and become a semi-solid, but sanding off the surface as a first step will have revealed oil deeper in the wood that may not be as fully oxidised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to proceed as though they were oil stains here is probably the best advice on how to deal with them on the Finishing Store's site, &lt;a href=&quot;https://thefinishingstore.com/blogs/news/tip-removing-oil-and-grease-stains&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TIP: Removing Oil and Grease Stains&lt;/a&gt;. To briefly summarise, you treat the surface with pastes of acetone and fuller's earth&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finishing guru Bob Flexner warns elsewhere that with old stains it may not be possible to completely eradicate the mark, but yours aren't particularly dark (bad ones can be the colour of chocolate on oak) so I think you may get good results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; These vary greatly from product to product, and makers are not upfront about the ingredients, leaving us in the dark about what they actually contain (always a warning sign) and making it very difficult for consumers to do meaningful comparisons. And at least some manufacturer's claims about their durability are not to be trusted — genuine real-world testing by third parties has shown some of the market leaders to be very much less protective than advertised. So it's possible it won't be sufficiently hard wearing, heat, water and stain resistant, and will be relatively easily damaged by common household cleaners. So in short, unsuited to a dining table in regular use, particular in a household with kids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Talc or other light powders (including starch) can be substituted if fuller's earth is not easy to find locally, although they may not be quite as absorbent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-10-04T07:47:15.490" LastActivityDate="2019-10-04T07:47:15.490" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1080" CreationDate="2019-08-28T19:51:02.573" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try using a blow torch, it will burn up all the dust and bits completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Microfiber cloth. Don't overthink the process. A fleck of dust wont blow the project.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7748" LastActivityDate="2019-08-28T19:51:02.573" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9921" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-28T20:40:42.103" Score="1" ViewCount="488" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am mitering some 21&quot; boards for picture frames using a tablesaw. The first cut leaves a small off-cut to the right of the blade. Sometimes it goes flying, or even gets caught between the blade and blade throat cover. I am pushing the boards through with a mitre gauge. I cannot push the mitre gauge all the way past the blade as the off-cut then gets caught (drops into) in the slot past the blade, and prevents the mitre gauge from any more travel in its slot. Any ideas how to do this safely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7749" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2019-08-28T20:56:47.633" LastActivityDate="2019-08-29T16:07:35.990" Title="How to prevent short off-cuts from flying everywhere?" Tags="|table-saw|safety|miter-joint|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9921" CreationDate="2019-08-28T21:18:56.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make or buy a zero tolerance insert for your tablesaw.  This will give cleaner cuts, and not give a place for the off cuts to drop into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2019-08-28T21:18:56.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9921" CreationDate="2019-08-28T21:27:30.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Making a zero-clearance insert (per LeeG's answer) is a good idea.  Another thing I would suggest is using a miter sled.  This gives a fully supported, non-moving place for the offcut to rest after it separates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2019-08-28T21:27:30.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9925" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-29T11:58:15.957" Score="2" ViewCount="1130" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to build a bench with legs that go through the top that is similar to this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZHG3t.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZHG3t.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I have two main questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of doing the legs straight up and down for a more minimal, easier construction. What does it change structurally if I wanted have the legs straight?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If i wanted to copy the angled assembly, I planned on drilling through the top with a drill press set at a fixed angle, but I'm not sure how to go about removing the material for the leg at an angle? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7751" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-08-29T13:51:36.667" LastActivityDate="2019-09-11T18:13:44.010" Title="Turned-leg bench: splayed or straight?" Tags="|joinery|technique|furniture|design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9926" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-29T13:08:40.810" Score="3" ViewCount="81" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to build my own furniture using MDF(medium density fiberboard)boards. I want to open my box pulling up the door(see below), but the door flap is too tight. Since the door jams, I have to trim it a little bit. But how much?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your help.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZS28C.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZS28C.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7752" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2019-08-29T16:41:45.563" LastActivityDate="2019-08-30T15:35:51.710" Title="Swing Door Distance" Tags="|mdf|door|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9925" CreationDate="2019-08-29T13:29:03.483" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am thinking of doing the legs straight up and down for a more minimal, easier construction. What does it change structurally if I wanted to have the legs straight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stool is slightly less stable front-to-back if the legs don't splay. Or to put it another way, it'll tend to want to tip forwards or backwards &lt;em&gt;unless&lt;/em&gt; the seat of the stool is deep enough front to back that the legs are far enough apart. For a narrow stool the legs splaying is an important feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd encourage you to draw a sketch or better yet, make a quick mockup of the design with vertical legs. They're less common not only because of lower stability, they also tend to look a bit odd..... although some of that might be from us being conditioned to expect splay in chair legs :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I wanted to copy the angled assembly, I planned on drilling through the top with a drill press set at a fixed angle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember legs like in the pictured stool are at a &lt;em&gt;compound angle&lt;/em&gt;, that is, they angle outwards in two directions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you get your head around the angles it isn't too difficult to learn to do this manually (using a brace or with a power drill) along with a pair of bevel gauges or other angle guides to help check and maintain alignment. There are numerous guides to this process in books, magazine articles and online if you want to explore this option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there's no shame in doing it on a drill press, if you own one you might as well use it! There's a good old guide to doing this on the drill press in the Nov. 1941 issue of &lt;strong&gt;Popular Mechanics&lt;/strong&gt; which you can see &lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.com/books?id=1tkDAAAAMBAJ&amp;amp;pg=RA1-PA147&amp;amp;lpg=RA1-PA147&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here on Google Books&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how to go about removing the material for the leg at an angle? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make the tenon portion deliberately overlong and then saw flush if you have a suitable saw&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, or nearly flush with another type of saw (protecting the surface from scratching if needed), after which you use some combination of planing, paring with a chisel or sanding to remove the excess. Regardless of which you do expect that some final planing, scraping or sanding will be necessary for a perfectly smooth and flush finished result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As these things are fundamental to the process of making a stool such as this I think you could do with reading a good guide to making any similar stool, and/or looking at a video or two. These will cover the above, as well as other important aspects&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; which will help ensure your project is a success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Flush-cutting saws, are now widely and inexpesively available e.g. from Amazon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Marking the legs for cutting them to final length is one, how to safely wedge the through-tenons is another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-08-29T18:31:55.887" LastActivityDate="2019-08-29T18:31:55.887" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9921" CreationDate="2019-08-29T16:07:35.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like your main problem is that you're cutting on the wrong side of a tilted blade.  However, for cutting picture frame miters you should not have the blade tilted at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general you should always have the work piece flat on the table if possible.  This is a lot more stable (and therefore more accurate) than putting the piece up on edge.  To cut &quot;picture frame&quot; miters you should have the blade straight, the miter gauge set to 45 degrees, and the stock flat on the table.  (This usage is so common that the &quot;miter gauge&quot; is named after it.)  This also has the advantage of allowing you to miter stock that is wider than your table saw's depth capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more typical use for tilting the blade of the table saw is in &quot;case&quot; miters, where you're making a box with no end grain showing.  The stock should still be laying flat on the table surface, but now you'll cross cut it with the miter gauge at 90 but the blade tilted.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any time you're tilting your blade you want the blade tilted &lt;em&gt;away&lt;/em&gt; from the work piece.  That way the small offcut rests on the table surface when it separates instead of falling onto the spinning blade.  Depending on your saw's tilt direction this may mean moving your fence or miter gauge to the other side of the saw blade compared to how you typically work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2019-08-29T16:07:35.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9903" CreationDate="2019-08-29T21:45:22.810" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Great question.  There are in my mind about as many sharpener brands as there are any other class of tool out there.  I agree that hand alignment (for me) is a pain, and I've got more fun things to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a fan of Tormek and Wolverine as a Turner.  Those jigs don't translate well.  Other sharpeners are great too, but these seem to work a bit better for speed and accuracy without a lot of hand work.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found that most of the jigs haven't historically translated directly, but more recently manufacturers are creating options to use for example a Tormek jig on a Wolverine setup.  So, keep an eye out and you may find nirvana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mention the Sorby which I see a lot of value.  It seems to me, to run a bit hot especially compared to a Tormek which is water cooled.  You pay for the water cooled in terms of mess and cleanup, but I would challenge anyone to beat its quickness and edge ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastActivityDate="2019-08-29T21:45:22.810" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9926" CreationDate="2019-08-30T15:35:51.710" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The exact amount you need can be calculated using the pythagorean theorem.  See the modified diagram below, with a triangle overlayed on it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9wwf5.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9wwf5.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You already labeled the 16mm dimension.  You then need to measure X (the distance of the opening).  From there you can use &lt;code&gt;a^2 + b^2 = c^2&lt;/code&gt; (or to plug in the values on the diagram, &lt;code&gt;16^2 + X^2 = Y^2&lt;/code&gt;; to change it around we get:&#xA;&lt;code&gt;Y = SQRT(X^2 + 256)&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That will give you the length of the dimension Y.  You can then subtract X from that number to get the amount that needs to be cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, assume the door size is 600mm.  You can plug that in for X, and will get:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Y = SQRT(600^2 + 256)&#xA;Y = SQRT(360256)&#xA;Y = 600.21&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you would only need to trim 0.21mm off in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the door was smaller, this value would be larger; for instance a 200mm door would result in a 0.64mm difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @Graphus indicated in their comment, you can also cut this at an angle, so that the front of the door is flush and the back of the door is shorter.  This calculation will still apply to determine how much you need to cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7515" LastActivityDate="2019-08-30T15:35:51.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9931" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9934" CreationDate="2019-08-31T12:04:09.177" Score="2" ViewCount="5806" Body="&lt;p&gt;Melted solid wax as a filler seems like it can provide a good color match and apparently a sufficiently strong/hard surface for a lot of repairs. Is it a good general substitute for drying/curing wood putties? Putty also seems to have those properties (potentially good color match &amp;amp; solidity).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, here's &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GZYAmU33ffg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a Thomas Johnson video&lt;/a&gt; where he happens to use both types in the same job but without an explanation (unless I missed it) of why he preferred one filler over the other for the different circumstances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="763" LastActivityDate="2024-01-29T21:05:57.507" Title="When is using melted wax filler preferred over wood putty?" Tags="|filler|wax|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9932" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-31T17:07:54.187" Score="3" ViewCount="1055" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a pedestal dinette table and the top is held in place by 4 threaded inserts into wood the screwed in place.  My problem is the threaded inserts will not hold and before you know it the table tops rocks up and down and from side to side.  How can I get the inserts to stay put?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7756" LastActivityDate="2019-09-01T13:33:08.360" Title="Threaded inserts" Tags="|tabletop|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9932" CreationDate="2019-09-01T13:33:08.360" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Epoxy will work as mentioned in the comments. There are two other possibilities I can think of. One is to drill out the area where the threaded inserts are and glue in a dowel. Once that glue is cured, drill the proper hole to fit the threaded insert. This is a good general solution to many situations where a screw no longer holds. The other option is to find a threaded insert with a matching inside diameter that has a larger outside diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7578" LastActivityDate="2019-09-01T13:33:08.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9931" CreationDate="2019-09-02T08:28:54.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Melted solid wax as a filler seems like it can provide a good color match and apparently a sufficiently strong/hard surface for a lot of repairs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yup. And sometimes expedience is king. Because wax fillers are essentially ready to go as soon as they're set they're a very quick option, faster than any putty or other kind of 'wet' filler because there's basically no drying, setting or curing time to consider. Only shellac fillers and modern hot-melt filler sticks rival wax fillers in outright speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wax fillers do vary in hardness, some are softened by body temperature and can be kneaded and pushed into place with the fingers, or just sort of swiped on like using a crayon. I think these are only suitable for the most superficial dings and perhaps not for anything that sees a lot of use. But wax fillers can be made quite hard by the addition of harder ingredients&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, making the fill much more resilient, and they need to be melted into place by some means. Traditionally this was done with the soldering irons of the time, which were heated externally&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. Note that modern soldering irons tend to run a little too hot for this purpose today, although some lower-powered models might work you'd want to test to be sure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even a hard wax filler with a high melting point might be a little too soft in service for a chip to an edge or a damaged corner, e.g. on heavy-use furniture like a table, or a piece that sees a lot of passing foot traffic like a sideboard. In this case shellac fillers might have been preferred because they're even harder (hard enough that you just score the surface with strong fingernail pressure) and perhaps more importantly they're more adhesive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it a good general substitute for drying/curing wood putties? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sort of, but where or more importantly &lt;em&gt;when&lt;/em&gt; they're used can be different. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wax fillers are often made specifically to be used on finished wood, to match the commonest colours seen in finished furniture woods&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;. Note they can be freely intermixed, and tinted with dry pigment or a dab of oil paint, to create custom shades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putties on the other hand are often intended to be used on bare wood, prior to the application of any stain or finish, or after just a light sealing coat (AKA a washcoat or spitcoat). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Epoxy putties are a bit of a special case as in addition to setting very hard and without shrinkage (a big issue with many fillers) they can serve as an adhesive to a degree, so are much better suited to certain types of structural repair where common cosmetic fillers would be wholly unsuitable. I think we should broadly lump together liquid epoxy that has been filled and tinted here, which is often relied on for gap-filling structural repairs so is essentially acting as filler as well as glue in those cases. And it can be thickened to any degree needed so can directly take the place of commercial epoxy putties&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Traditionally by adding carnauba, candelilla, Japan or other very hard waxes to the base of beeswax and sometimes some shellac too. Separated shellac wax was also sometimes used as an additive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; But being careful not to use something like a candle or oil lamp as the heat source as it leaves soot on the iron which would discolour the filler. I've seen this happen, it's not pretty! Instead something that burns clean would have been used, e.g. an alcohol burners, if a brazier or wood stove were not already in the shop which could be used to keep the irons permanently hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; From pale 'blond' woods (maple, ash) through the various tans (oak, beech) and browns (oak, walnut) all the way to ebony ....or these days, Java gel stain LOL.... including one or more redder tones for cherry and mahogany-like woods. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt; Because of how effective these sorts of fills are, and because they can be made to auto-fill cracks and crevices, I often wonder why pros make any use of readymade epoxy putties. And to a large extent if the user chooses filled and coloured epoxy can take the place of nearly all putties and fillers. I've used it for chip repairs to edges and corners and if good procedure is followed they're extremely hard wearing, I imagine much better than any other option except for patching in solid wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-09-02T08:28:54.953" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9935" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-03T09:01:45.597" Score="0" ViewCount="721" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are cordless trim routers compatible with any router tables?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7762" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2019-09-03T17:28:11.587" LastActivityDate="2019-09-03T17:28:11.587" Title="Cordless router in router table" Tags="|router|router-table|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2019-09-04T23:36:49.287" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9935" CreationDate="2019-09-03T14:09:51.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably. Trim router tables are manufactured and one or more would most likely fit this model. You could also fabricate a baseplate/mounting plate to make this trim router fit other, standard router tables if you're so inclined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real question is whether or not this router could handle the demands placed upon it when mounted to a table. You'll probably be happier with a corded router that has better power specifications and is built to use with a table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastActivityDate="2019-09-03T14:09:51.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9937" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-04T01:11:44.093" Score="1" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had my floors refinished. They won’t tell me what they used. I picked out Bona stain and asked for water base polyurethane.  They applied the stain at 4 PM. The next morning they supposedly applied water-based polyurethane. I opened the front door at 8am and there was a strong acetone smell and the floor was slightly wet.  At 4 PM later on that day I supervised and they applied Bona mega  polyurethane.  Two months later I’m still having major anaphylaxis attacks and I can’t be in the house for two minutes. The smell is strong still but people cannot pinpoint what it smells like. Do you think they may have used shellac that morning? I’m thinking of refinishing again and it’s super expensive, but I never had this experience before. I also have tar paper under red oak floor. They purchased Masterline polyurethane that morning but I’m not sure if they put it on my floor that morning and they won’t tell me :( I have had windows open 40 days and even air scrubber with carbon filters. Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7765" LastActivityDate="2019-09-04T01:11:44.093" Title="Water-based polyurethane" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9938" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-04T07:03:52.587" Score="2" ViewCount="277" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m trying to Re-veneer a part of my cars console and the piece has a bend of about 80 degrees. I’ve glued the veneer down with contact adhesive, but around the bend it has developed a crack. Is there any way to repair it? is it salvageable or do I need to redo the veneer? How can I repair the crack before I start polishing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BbRY0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7766" LastActivityDate="2019-09-05T14:41:39.893" Title="How to fix a crack when bending a veneer" Tags="|veneer|bending|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9939" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-04T22:10:47.617" Score="2" ViewCount="3213" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a single step that is approx 200mm high and I would like to build a small wooden ramp to take a robot vacuum up and down so it can reach my whole house. I have basically no woodworking experience and I have some (probably bad) ideas of how to hack something together. I'm looking for a design to be provided or failing that some direction for how I should plan the design myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Requirements:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ramp to not be physically attached (easily removed and replaced)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ramp to be relatively straight for sliding behind a couch for storage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ramp to be relatively lightweight for easy movement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;About 400-500mm wide to accommodate vacuum&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have flat entrance at end points so vacuum can easily enter / exit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be secure enough to not be pushed away as vacuum enters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not be too complex to construct...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Current thinking (probably bad):  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Single flat piece of thin MDF 500mm x 600mm x 10mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two rails that run along the length and extend and taper to ground to provide some stability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First question here obviously, not sure if this is an appropriate question etc. Any assistance much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7768" LastActivityDate="2019-09-04T22:10:47.617" Title="How to design a ramp to get a robot vacuum down a step" Tags="|design|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9938" CreationDate="2019-09-05T14:41:39.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I reached out to a friend-of-a-friend who does parquetry. He suggested applying heat with an iron to try smoothen the ends out. It was relatively successful in that the crack is no longer sticking up, however there is still a visible line where the crack is. I’m going to try fill/sand this and hope it doesn’t stand out too noticeably when polished. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AqtY0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7766" LastActivityDate="2019-09-05T14:41:39.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9941" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9942" CreationDate="2019-09-06T17:05:48.263" Score="3" ViewCount="907" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm replacing the door casing for our old, small house and plan to do a simple craftsman style using boards, probably 1x3s, possibly 1x4s. I plan to paint them white.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a table saw, router, and miter saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did one door in our laundry room, using primed finger-jointed moulding, but was disappointed that I had to sand some of the boards because the primer wasn't smooth.  So, buying primed boards isn't important to me at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of just buying boards at Lowes or Home Depot, but I don't want to spend a fortune. So, I'm wondering what wood to use that won't be problematic in the future.  Does it really matter, other than having straight edges and no holes?  Is cheap pine OK, or perhaps whitewood?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't really want to use MDF for a few reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2910" LastActivityDate="2019-09-21T20:35:49.047" Title="What wood for inexpensive door casing" Tags="|wood-species|molding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9941" CreationDate="2019-09-06T18:56:25.237" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;White wood&quot; is not a specific species, rather it is whatever is available locally and inexpensive.  Typically it will be pine, doug fir, spruce, etc.  It should work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're doing complex molding profiles you might consider using poplar.  It tends to work better, holds fine details well, and shows less grain through paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2019-09-06T18:56:25.237" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9943" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9945" CreationDate="2019-09-06T22:15:30.653" Score="4" ViewCount="993" Body="&lt;p&gt;New to woodworking and doing first project which is a garden gate. I am using pressurized 2x4 timber for the frame. To join the vertical and horizontal timbers together, I am using the half-lap joint (I am limited to a circular saw and combi drill for my tools).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is do I need to treat the newly exposed faces of the timber (I have bought some creocote) before gluing the lap joints together? Or can I just use the glue and ignore the creocote? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am in the UK so rain and damp is a given for a large part of the year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7753" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-09-09T06:52:05.663" LastActivityDate="2019-09-09T06:52:05.663" Title="Outdoor gate build - should I treat cut surfaces (half-lap joints) before gluing together?" Tags="|staining|glue|outdoor|joints|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9944" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-08T15:47:55.177" Score="2" ViewCount="234" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a Mafell hand router (&lt;a href=&quot;https://produkte.mafell.de/en/hand-router-lo-65-ec&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;model LO 65 Ec&lt;/a&gt;) and it came with &lt;a href=&quot;https://produkte.mafell.de/en/adapter-for-router-bit-with-internal-shaft-m-10&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this adapter&lt;/a&gt;:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7ML1G.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7ML1G.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top (narrow end opposite the threaded male) has some sort of female hex socket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where are female threaded router bits used? All my existing router bits just have a smooth 8mm shaft that I attach using the included Mafell 8mm collet. All the router bits I've ever seen just have smooth metric or imperial shafts. I can't find any female threaded router bits for sale online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2911" LastEditorUserId="2911" LastEditDate="2019-09-10T17:45:49.777" LastActivityDate="2019-09-10T17:45:49.777" Title="How do I use this adapter for a router bit with an M10 internal shaft?" Tags="|router|power-tools|router-bit|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9943" CreationDate="2019-09-09T06:49:52.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using pressure-treated wood for exterior construction treating any cut surfaces is considered good practice, but that's generally for nailed/screwed construction where even inside a joint water is assumed to be able to wick inside. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're using glue however the joint faces will be sealed by the glue so this doesn't apply, and any preservative or wood treatment applied there is likely to impede the production of a proper glue joint and isn't advisable anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you're glueing you don't need to worry about treating the cuts you make for the half-laps joints (note, these are &lt;em&gt;halving joints&lt;/em&gt; in traditional UK parlance). But do treat the ends of any boards you cut to length, especially if they are close to the ground or will be horizontal after installation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-09-09T06:49:52.313" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9946" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-09T07:22:35.003" Score="8" ViewCount="1495" Body="&lt;p&gt;Material is hard maple, though this happens a little bit with cherry and not at all with walnut. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been making plates with my router, and with almost 100% consistency I end up having to spend time heavily sanding these inside edges. I thought maybe it was due to the router bit being blunt, but this happens with freshly (and professionally) sharpened bits as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I run the router on the &quot;4&quot; setting (I guess approximately 22,000 rpm) with a 1 1/4 inch bowl cutting bit (1/2 shank on a 2 inch extender, though to anyone who thinks that may be a problem, I get the same issues without the extension on a smaller diameter bit). Material is removed about 1/16-1/8 at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm fresh out of creative ideas for dealing with this and am quickly losing my hair here. One of the bigger issues is that due to this tear out, almost every plate is slightly different in diameter, and has sort of a 'wobble' around those areas where I have to sand more to remove the chop - for picky clients, I end up dealing with a lot of rejects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0BgY1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0BgY1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;tear out from router&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6093" LastActivityDate="2019-09-09T12:55:17.853" Title="Tear out when plate making w/ a router" Tags="|router|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9946" CreationDate="2019-09-09T07:53:07.627" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm embarrassed to say that I guess I didn't really read enough articles on router bits.. and I was running it way too fast. Needed to slow the router down to around ~18k (speed ~2). So I ran out to the garage to try it out and.. the tear out isn't gone, but it's not nearly as bad. I have a feeling that if the bit I was using was a freshly sharpened one, it would have been even better. :sigh: Read your manuals, folks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6093" LastActivityDate="2019-09-09T07:53:07.627" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9946" CreationDate="2019-09-09T12:55:17.853" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see you have mostly mitigated the issue, but depending on how your jig works, you may want to consider climb cutting as well on the parts of the plate which tear out.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are unfamiliar with it, climb cutting is moving the router (or piece, if you are using a router table) the same direction as the bit is cutting, instead of moving against the bit.  Normally it is discouraged, as it can be dangerous - the router bit can grab the piece more easily.  However, if you are careful and take very small passes it can be good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use this approach when routing chamfers in acoustic guitar bodies in preparation for perfling and edging - for this, you always want to route in the direction that the wood grain is facing, so that the bit cuts out.  In the case of plates, assuming you have the wood positioned such that the grain goes from 12:00 position to 6:00 position, you would want to climb cut from 12:00 backwards to 9:00, and then again from 3:00 to 6:00.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether or not you can do this of course depends on how you are cutting things.  Do your research beforehand, and be sure to be safe!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7515" LastActivityDate="2019-09-09T12:55:17.853" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9949" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-10T08:51:15.750" Score="1" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a closed room where I keep some furniture which is made up of engineered wood. By closed, I mean I dont keep windows open. Also in that room, I keep wet cloths to dry on cloths drying stand below fan (which is ON all time). The room is quite small. After some days, I realized something is wrong with my furniture. Some white/yellowish colored deposits were found on its edges as can be seen in below pics. When I cleaned, the edges were looking normal and undamaged. So, it doesnt seem to be termite. What is it, a fungus due to moisture in the room or anything else? Is it something to worry about? Should I do something to avoid it in future? I am thinking to keep my exhaust fan ON all time too. Will it help to get rid of moisture (if it is indeed happening due to moisture)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: I have no experience in woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I3IiP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I3IiP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NI9d5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NI9d5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7783" LastActivityDate="2019-09-10T08:51:15.750" Title="What is this happned to my furniture" Tags="|water-protection|wood-drying|moisture|physical-protection|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9950" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-10T10:48:35.960" Score="1" ViewCount="100" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a piece of wood that's about 3cm thick and I'd like to put some screws with hooks on it but I just can't find small screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user7784" LastActivityDate="2019-09-10T10:48:35.960" Title="Screws that are larger than wood itself" Tags="|plywood|screws|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2019-09-12T06:20:37.573" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9951" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9956" CreationDate="2019-09-10T17:39:26.877" Score="4" ViewCount="1622" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a bunk bed out of 8/4 red oak. It has very open grain/pores in some places and I'm concerned about my finish process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm basing my design on plans from the Wood Whisperer. He finished off his bed with Rubio Monocoat but he used Alder. Will Rubio alone give me a good seal and finish? Or should I pre-treat the wood with anything to close up the pores in the wood? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rubio's site states that it bonds strictly to wood fibers and not to itself. Seems to reason that it might cause an issue with not sealing up large pores if it can't seal with itself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if it only seals to wood fibers then can I even use a pre-finish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll likely end up sealing a piece of scrap with it to get started but the stuff is expensive and I don't want to waste any if possible.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s1PvN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s1PvN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yc6Dg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yc6Dg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rNusD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rNusD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qwuCz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qwuCz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3504" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-09-16T06:48:01.273" LastActivityDate="2019-09-16T07:50:38.790" Title="Is Rubio Monocoat appropriate on red oak furniture?" Tags="|finish-selection|oak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9953" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-12T22:55:43.300" Score="1" ViewCount="38" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a speaker box (cube) and finishing 5 sides.  Normally I lay the box flat and do one side then rotate and do another side.  Waterlox requires 24 hours between coats.  Does that mean it’s 24 hours laying flat before I rotate it such that the side would be perpendicular with the ground?  Or could I wait 4 hours and then rotate and do another side.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2925" LastActivityDate="2019-09-12T22:55:43.300" Title="How long until setting Waterlox sealer vertical" Tags="|finishing|staining|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9954" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-14T19:34:09.193" Score="2" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm repairing a used desk made from black carob (it's harder than white oak to give an idea) which only had a wood wax finish. It's been damaged all around its base by dog urine. The old owner of the desk told me that his dog has peed on it 2-3 times per day for about 2 years, and he used to clean up the mess with pure Clorox.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After sanding for a long time I could take out the wax, besides having removed as much as I could from the impregnated urine in the base (not all unfortunately, if you know about another method apart from water and soap, please tell me!!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is (after all this work) which kind of wood finish would you recommend I apply all over the surface for preventing dog/cat urine staining/discoloring it again? I've read about varnish or polyurethane finishes (water and oil-based) but I still have many doubts (I'm new to restorations).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit: I washed the urine impregnated surfaces again, now with a mixture of Clorox lowered with water and sodium bicarbonate. It seems to have worked (I no longer feel smell).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7797" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-09-18T07:42:33.923" LastActivityDate="2019-09-18T07:42:33.923" Title="Wooden desk, finish against urine" Tags="|finish-selection|restoration|clean-up|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9951" CreationDate="2019-09-16T07:50:38.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Will Rubio alone give me a good seal and finish? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are really two separate things. The finish is about aesthetics — how do &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; think it makes the wood look? So nobody can answer that for you. You've indicated you're planning on testing the finish out on a scrap or two and you'll see then&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now as to the sealing aspect, Rubio would have consumers believe that it does in fact seal the wood really well in one shot, but user tests have confirmed that it is far from bulletproof (which is no real surprise given the thickness of the finish on the wood).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, that said Monocoat is more than good enough for a typical bed&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. You're not finishing a tabletop after all, this is much more akin to table legs which are typically more lightly finished than the top because they don't need to withstand the same rigours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Or should I pre-treat the wood with anything to close up the pores in the wood? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; yes, Monocoat must bond reasonably well not just to wood but to any wood filler used to plug nail holes or other defects, epoxy fills in cracks and so forth, natural resin pockets in the wood, or its use would be pretty limited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether you &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; is again a judgement call, but ask yourself what you hope to gain by doing so and whether it's worth it for a bed, even merely on something of this size and shape? It is a ton of extra work on something sizeable and very difficult on anything with inside corners, or anywhere wood joins wood at 90°.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'll likely end up sealing a piece of scrap with it to get started&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the right call. It's always a good idea to test out a finishing regimen before committing to the workpiece. Always, even when you've used the finish before. But 100% of the time when you're using a finish new to you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;but the stuff is expensive and I don't want to waste any if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember you can always test finish options on the back sides or undersides of pieces of a project, rather than on offcuts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may give those hidden surfaces a harlequin appearance if you go through a number of options, but normally nobody will see them so it doesn't matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Remember that finish tests should exactly mimic the process used on the project, so the test pieces must be planed, scraped or sanded to the same level as the project wood for the text to give a proper indication. Just sanding to a lower grit (e.g. 150 instead of 220) is enough to give a radically different look in finishing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; I want to be clear this is not a plug for Monocoat, the same is true of just about any oil or oil+wax finishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-09-16T07:50:38.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9957" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-16T19:59:04.207" Score="1" ViewCount="3562" Body="&lt;p&gt;A wood column have been coated with water based polyurethane over the natural surface and I would like to stain it with oil based wood stain. How can I do so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7800" LastActivityDate="2019-10-17T15:02:30.477" Title="Can I apply wood oil stain over a surface treated with water base polyurethane?" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9958" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-16T21:02:58.230" Score="1" ViewCount="359" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to cut some coloured pencils into small chunks or slices, less than 8mm I'm getting good square cuts when the stars align but the key is consistency. &#xA;My small rotary cutting tool is fixed with a 60mm cutoff disc. The issue is throughput too. I've tried using a 32tpi blade on a hacksaw, but the friction can cause colour bleed (coloured &quot;lead&quot; is waxy in nature) and it just takes too long. Over 100 pieces would be a conservative estimate of number required, not too mention the variety of colours, so may need closer to 1000. &#xA;Are there any sort of guides I can use to push a row of pencils squarely through the cutting disc? &#xA;If I strap them together, I can obviously push them off at an angle. The answer might be to live with it and sand them as and when they are glues together in patters, but I'll take Amy suggestions at the moment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2374" LastEditorUserId="2374" LastEditDate="2019-09-19T06:40:27.977" LastActivityDate="2019-09-19T07:36:22.860" Title="Consistent cutting of pencils" Tags="|cutting|square|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9959" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9962" CreationDate="2019-09-16T21:33:23.627" Score="5" ViewCount="423" Body="&lt;p&gt;Piggy backing on &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/q/2708&quot;&gt;this question about wood screws&lt;/a&gt;, are there any industrial standards to define quality in wood screws? When I purchase machine screws I usually look for which standards are adhered to. For example McMaster lists these standards for their socket head machine screws:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Screws that meet ASTM A574, ASTM A574M, and ISO 898-1 comply with&#xA;  specifications and testing requirements for material quality. Screws&#xA;  that meet ASME B18.3, ASME B18.3M, ISO 21269, and ISO 4762 (formerly&#xA;  DIN 912) comply with specifications for dimensional standards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is usually how I know I'm getting an inferior product when I have to buy machine screws from the big-box home store. Are there any corresponding standards for wood screws? Is there any way to tell a quality wood screw from a junk one from the big boxes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7802" LastActivityDate="2019-09-17T14:31:59.677" Title="Are there industrial standards for wood screws?" Tags="|screws|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9960" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-16T21:59:26.337" Score="1" ViewCount="13559" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was cleaning my wooden bed with Lysol and afterwards noticed weird grey marks. Now I can't remove them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bAVP4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7803" LastEditorUserId="10942" LastEditDate="2021-09-07T13:42:24.743" LastActivityDate="2021-09-07T13:42:24.743" Title="How to fix Lysol damage to furniture?" Tags="|furniture|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9961" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9992" CreationDate="2019-09-17T14:25:11.970" Score="2" ViewCount="888" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am beginning to really like using hand tools as opposed to power tools and I can see a lot of use cases for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I don't understand how can you apply a consistent chamfer on a non-linear edge (i.e. curved, round etc.). A chamfer plane, for example, can be used to apply a consistent chamfer but that works only on a straight (linear) edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently made a small egg-holder for my fridge ( &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instagram.com/p/Bums050gQZN/?igshid=v1g7c74quxek&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.instagram.com/p/Bums050gQZN/?igshid=v1g7c74quxek&lt;/a&gt; ) out of plywood, by hole-sawing a few holes in a plywood scrap piece. In the end, except using my (electric) router I cannot see a way to chamfer the inside of the holes in a consistent (i.e. the same for all) way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastEditorUserId="4942" LastEditDate="2019-09-17T19:53:10.137" LastActivityDate="2019-10-02T09:19:09.043" Title="How to add a consistent chamfer across a non-linear edge using hand tools" Tags="|technique|hand-tools|tools|roundover|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9959" CreationDate="2019-09-17T14:31:59.677" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there any way to tell a quality wood screw from a junk one from the big boxes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By sight, probably not. Packaging, and any claims it might make, certainly wouldn't be anything to go on&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. Apparent quality and consistency of the screws may be something to go on but it would be hard to be definitive, and visual cues won't tell you anything about the material qualities of the steel&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't specify the application(s) you're interested in, but within reason the only area you need to be really fussy about screw selection is structural work, where strength is critical for safety. More particularly exterior structural work, where strength and the quality of the coating are both important factors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But just for lighter stuff around the house and for general furniture use you can be much less fussy. Screws of old were only a type of mild steel and they did OK&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;. Excluding anything with a fault, the typical screw of today is an order of magnitude better than those. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shootouts and comparative reviews are a useful starting point for selecting the screws you're going to buy for different applications and here's a selection: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/todays-wood-screw-technology/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Choosing Woodworking Screws&lt;/a&gt; on Woodworker's Journal.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/screws-screws-arent/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Screws are Screws – Aren’t They?&lt;/a&gt; from Popular Woodworking.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/fasteners/drive-screws-that-dont-corrode&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Drive screws that don't corrode&lt;/a&gt; from Wood Magazine.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularmechanics.com/home/tools/reviews/a10417/these-are-the-screws-you-should-be-using-16729784/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;These Are the Screws You Should Be Using&lt;/a&gt; on Popular Mechanics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last point, if you're not a working pro who &lt;em&gt;needs&lt;/em&gt; to be able to drive dozens of screws in a day don't be too down on any screws you might try that don't power-drive well. They may be perfectly good fasteners that work well driven by hand or using a ratcheting driver of some kind such as a Yankee screwdriver. For long or very big screws I like to use an old carpenter's brace&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Standard caveat emptor caution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Drywall screws are a great example, they look really good but the slick black coating doesn't tell you that they're typically too brittle for woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; And they're still viable. Many woodworkers today hoard old screws and use them as much as they can. Worth noting also in this context that many screws used traditionally in furniture work were only brass, and as soft as it was it was good enough for the purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt; Many traditional two-jaw chucks in braces can grip hexagons quite well despite not being made for this, opening up the world of drivers that an old brace can power to literally anything available with a hex shaft. This is surprisingly quick and so far there is no amount of resistance one of these can't overcome, hardly surprising given braces were intended for drilling big holes in hard wood as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-09-17T14:31:59.677" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9957" CreationDate="2019-09-17T14:47:41.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to use a conventional oil stain then this won't work. Conventional stains of all types require direct contact with the wood surface, so if there's a full finish in place it needs to be removed. If you try to use oil stain over a clear finish at minimum you'll get very light colouring, at worst you'll get virtually none as when you go to wipe away the excess (always done with oil-based stains) it will all come off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an alternative and that's to use &quot;gel stain&quot;. Despite the misleading name this is not stain, it is a coloured varnish that has been thickened to a light jelly consistency. If applied over another finish the surface must be clean and matt, so after any cleaning that's necessary you need to lightly sand, or scuff the surface with an abrasive like steel wool or a synthetic equivalent. After this you apply the gel stain as directed. Multiple coats can be applied to build up the required depth of colour as long as sufficient drying time is left between coats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will also need to apply a final finish, as although &quot;gel stain&quot; is based on varnish it's too easily damaged by itself and needs the additional protection of a clear finish on top for durability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-09-17T14:47:41.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9961" CreationDate="2019-09-17T23:15:25.463" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thing with hand tools is that YOU are the key part that provides the consistency.  When dealing with hand tools not everything will have a stop or dial or setting to make sure it's accurate.  The assumption is that the user will be providing the necessary skill to make the fine details consistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This specific task is somewhat complicated by the fact that you're using plywood.  Plywood, along with MDF, particle board, and other sheet goods, is engineered to be used with power tools.  With hand tools a lot of the small details come down to how you're working with, across, or against the grain.  Plywood has grain going multiple directions at once, so it can be difficult to work with it in 3 dimensions.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I would just get in there with an exacto knife or the corner of a chisel (bevel down) and make whatever edge treatment you want.  Generally with hand tools a chamfer is easier than a roundover, but both are possible.  The burden is on you to not cut too deep, but with some practice it will come naturally.  In hardwood you'll start on the end grain and move towards the long grain, stopping when the grain reverses.  Skew the cutting edge so that the top surface is cut first to avoid tear-out.  Take thin cuts and make sure your tools are sharp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be able to put a chamfer on with a curved-sole spokeshave at an angle.  I don't really expect this would work, though, since the curve is so tight.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2019-09-17T23:15:25.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9965" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-18T16:06:33.660" Score="0" ViewCount="2544" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sanded a door to the bare wood. And before I went to stain it I pre-conditioned it, but the results were not what I expected.  The color after the conditioning is darker than I expected. I used Varathane wood conditioner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I stain it or just polyurethane it? &#xA;If I stain it what color should I use?  I was going for Natural but now it has what looks like reddish undertones and not sure if Natural will work.&#xA;If I polyurethane, which kind should I use and do I have to recondition it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7808" LastEditorUserId="7808" LastEditDate="2019-09-18T16:11:47.763" LastActivityDate="2019-09-18T21:18:57.460" Title="Worried about pre-stain conditioner results" Tags="|staining|restoration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9965" CreationDate="2019-09-18T16:58:38.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a few questions here, so I'll break it down a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;General advice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to determine what finishing regimen you should use is to make test boards with different steps until you can produce the finish you want.  Take a scrap from the project and do whatever sanding, sealing, coloring, and top coats you think you want and see how it looks.  If it's not right adjust it.  Also, keep in mind there are really no hard and fast rules as to what you have to do with finishes (other than making sure preliminary layers are cured before covering them and watching out for incompatible products).  Experiment and see what you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the refinishing space your options are a bit more limited, but there's almost always a non-show surface.  You mentioned door, so I'm assuming you mean an entry door, not a cabinet door.  You can use the top, bottom, and hinge edge for testing.  If you need more tests you can sand/scrape/plane them back and try again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I stain or just use poly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stain is intended to change the color of the wood.  It is typically used when you have a less expensive lighter colored wood (i.e. pine) and you want to make it look like a more expensive darker wood (i.e. walnut or cherry).  It is certainly not required, and many woodworkers avoid it entirely.  If the wood is coming out of the finishing procedure the color you want then don't bother with any stain.  If you do want to change the color I'd actually recommend an analine dye in alcohol over a stain...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What color should I use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What color do you want it to be?  This is totally subjective and depends on your vision for the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Natural&quot; stain&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Natural stain is just another color.  Like any other stain it will change the wood to be closer to the color of the stain.  It is not intended to &quot;leave the wood a natural color&quot;.  If you like the color of the wood don't use any stain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of poly should I use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally there are two broad categories of poly, oil-based and waterborne.  Waterborne cleans up more easily and doesn't impart much color to the wood.  Oil-based requires solvents to clean up (mineral spirits, turpentine, paint thinner) and tends to make the color a bit more amber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I have to recondition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't have to use any kind of conditioner if you're not using a dye or stain.  Conditioners are mainly to prevent &quot;blotchiness&quot; when staining by blocking the more absorbent parts of the surface so they don't suck up more colorant and appear darker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2019-09-18T21:18:57.460" LastActivityDate="2019-09-18T21:18:57.460" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9967" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-18T19:33:58.220" Score="1" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;We recently (a month ago) had our oak floors refinished with Precision Oil Modified Polyurethane. The odor has diminished substantially, and I hardly notice it at all any more, except sometimes when I first enter the house. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But my partner is worried about the toxicity and has the windows open and many fans on during much of the day. Until the other day, we thought that the finish was purely oil-based, but from other articles on this site, it appears that it mainly water-based -- which we thought we had been avoiding due to concerns about appearance and durability.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is she right to be so worried about the toxicity? How long should we be subject to outgassing, and are fans the best way to speed up the process?  (In a few weeks, it might not be so comfortable to keep the windows open.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7809" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-09-20T08:33:49.313" LastActivityDate="2019-09-20T08:33:49.313" Title="Outgassing of oil-modified polyurethane" Tags="|refinishing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9968" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9975" CreationDate="2019-09-19T02:33:14.460" Score="2" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;A neighbor has outdoor sculpture (an owl) carved from a tree trunk left at just the right height for the purpose when the tree was felled. It's several years old and well maintained. It's time to apply a next coat of preservative. We don't know what preservative  was used last time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recommendations, please.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6323" LastActivityDate="2019-09-20T13:33:10.537" Title="outdoor preservative" Tags="|outdoor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9967" CreationDate="2019-09-19T06:48:49.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The odour from waterbased finishes can sometimes be surprisingly strong and pervasive, but there's &lt;strong&gt;usually&lt;/strong&gt; little cause for concern because the ingredients are relatively benign, and certainly the VOC load is just a fraction of that from an equivalent oil-based finish. But, what you're smelling in each case are completely different things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is she right to be so worried about the toxicity? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say the answer to this is &lt;em&gt;probably not&lt;/em&gt;, but there's no point in someone here speculating on what you're smelling in this case and the risk it may pose, contact the manufacturer and they'll be able to put your mind at rest. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How long should we be subject to outgassing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Impossible to say. In all finishing drying processes take as long as they take, depending on the exact product used (not just its type) and subject to the temp and humidity, the thickness of finish application etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;and are fans the best way to speed up the process? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. Good airflow is the number one thing that will help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-09-19T06:48:49.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9958" CreationDate="2019-09-19T07:36:22.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was going to add this as another Comment but I figure it is actually an Answer since you've asked for suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were doing this I'd be using a Japanese-style pull saw with fairly fine teeth&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, and a mitre box and with a stop clamped in place to ensure consistency. Each cut would take 1-2 strokes, literally about a second per pencil&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. Triple that to account for the Law of Estimates™ and it still comes to only 50 minutes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Factor in setup time, fiddling, occasional fumbles, moments when you stare off into space trying to remember why you're doing this :-) and I figure a full thousand would easily be tackled in one afternoon. Or 2-3 lunchtimes (it would be mindlessly repetitive and boring work, so good to spread it out). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; A traditional dozuki would be a good choice but one of the saws from Shark would likely also work well and they'd probably be slightly cheaper. You want something in the range of 15-20 TPI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Pencils are usually made from what we've come to call &lt;em&gt;pencil cedar&lt;/em&gt;. It's not a hard wood and saws easily if you use a saw made to cut wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-09-19T07:36:22.860" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9971" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-19T14:04:18.927" Score="1" ViewCount="2737" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our new 6' privacy fence is very rough, shaggy, almost furry. We've been told it's best to get the surface smooth before staining both to allow for better absorption and to prevent unevenness when the shag wears/falls off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanding with 36-grit belt sander gummed up the belt quickly so we switched to a power hand planer, then sanding. This is taking forever. Removing the pickets for treatment is not an option. Does anyone have a better idea? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fence is just off the sidewalk and very visible so we want it to look nice and to be easy to maintain over the years so I'd rather do the hard work on the front end, just wish it wasn't so hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've little experience with wood so any help would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i8NUw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i8NUw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7811" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-09-20T08:35:32.797" LastActivityDate="2019-09-20T08:35:32.797" Title="Prepping new, very rough, pressure-treated pine fence for staining" Tags="|sanding|pressure-treated|fence|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9967" CreationDate="2019-09-19T15:59:30.610" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Certainly, such products all contain VOCs and other interesting compounds, and most manufacturers will publish clear warnings about their use and potential health issues using and applying it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually these warnings are specific to the application and drying times. In general, for many of these sorts of products, &quot;drying&quot; means 72 hours (depending on circumstances) for light use and 7 days (again, depending) for a more permanent cure. But see the application and safety notes published for your brand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, what is probably more of an issue is that the strength of the odour may not actually be indicative of a level of danger. The odour just reminds us that there &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; be some nasty stuff present. For all we know, some huge percentage of the worst compounds boil off in the first X hours or days, and the lingering odour is just some reasonably low-toxicity VOCs that we are sensitive to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/9969/5572&quot;&gt;Graphus says&lt;/a&gt;, you &lt;em&gt;probably&lt;/em&gt; don't have much to worry about, though the manufacturer will publish warnings, and in this case I suspect the warnings will read something similar to this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;CAUTIONS: CONTAINS DIMENTHYLETHANOLAMINE AND 1-METHYL-2-PYRROLIDONE.&#xA;  CONTAINS MATERIAL THAT MAY CAUSE REPRODUCTIVE EFFECTS AND MAY&#xA;  ADVERSELY AFFECT THE DEVELOPING FETUS BASED ON ANIMAL DATA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, this is more about application and initial curing, and probably not the long tail of a full cure. It is also based on laboratory tests involving fetal rats and pigs, which doesn't always translate well for &quot;humans walking around in a house, but also doing other things&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But reasonable caution suggests that you continue reasonable ventilation. You probably don't need to walk around with NIOSH approved breathing masks after the first few hours...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that it is hard to predict the affects of low level exposure of these compounds in humans after the initial bloom of application and curing. The fact is many of these finishes are perfectly safe when used as directed, but there is no denying the other fact that the compounds they release during cure are not something adult humans want a lot of during a lifetime. The manufacturers are actually not able to state that these products are &quot;safe&quot; (for some definition of &quot;safe&quot;) after X hours or weeks, as safety is dependent on so many factors out of their (and your) control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I, personally, might wait even a few weeks after application before introducing pets, small children, or pregnant women to such environments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this is more of a gut feeling rather than a quantifiable situation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-09-19T16:05:17.253" LastActivityDate="2019-09-19T16:05:17.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9973" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9974" CreationDate="2019-09-20T02:08:32.817" Score="2" ViewCount="19601" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm finishing my first woodworking project — a tabletop that I hope to mount on a sit/stand desk mechanism. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've stained and applied 4 coats of Varthane water-based polyurethane in matte finish. I applied each successive coat after lightly sanding between coats with 400 grit sandpaper and achieved a finish I'm pretty content with. I'm now on the final steps and have a couple questions...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to apply a final protective barrier and achieve an ultra-smooth feel to the hand. I've read about using #0000 steel wool and polishing with automotive wax or carnauba wax. However, I'm a bit conflicted with some people advising against steel wool on a water-based varnish. I've also read in other forums that steel wool is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; a problem on water-based varnishes as long as it is used on the final coat and it has been thoroughly dried. Can I use #0000 steel wool as a final polishing step? If not, what are my alternatives? I've read mixed reviews on synthetic wools, do you recommend them? What course grit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any recommendations are welcome. Thank you so much in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7812" LastEditorUserId="7812" LastEditDate="2019-09-20T14:48:59.743" LastActivityDate="2019-09-23T18:46:01.823" Title="Can I use #0000 steel wool for final polish of water-based polyurethane?" Tags="|finishing|tabletop|polyurethane|wax|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9973" CreationDate="2019-09-20T08:21:33.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer, yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should caution you that 0000 steel wool won't polish it per se, rather it will have the opposite effect of scratching the surface (they're very very fine scratches, but scratches nonetheless). So even lubricated by wax you'll be left with a somewhat satin or semi-gloss finish. If you want something glossier than this you should go another route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finishing sources are conflicted about whether you should use steel wool for the final dressing of a dried clear finish*. Bob Flexner, one particularly trustworthy source, recommends against using steel wool for denibbing and final flatting because it (along with other conformable abrasives) have more of a rounding-off effect than a cutting or shearing action. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So fine abrasive paper is to be preferred if a very flat surface is desired. You can modify this sanded surface subsequently by using steel wool, with or without wax, if it gives the look you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is much info in previous Q&amp;amp;As here that touch on or directly answer some of your other queries (e.g. the use or not of wax, variability of drying and curing times, grit progressions should you choose to sand and polish).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Do remember that doing nothing at all to the finish (other than any denibbing that may be necessary) is an option. This is actually the ideal situation to aim for. In case you haven't read this tip before the rough side of brown paper can be used for this denibbing operation, it's &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; abrasive enough and shouldn't scuff any decent finish after it has had a decent interval to harden up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="2738" LastEditDate="2019-09-23T18:46:01.823" LastActivityDate="2019-09-23T18:46:01.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9968" CreationDate="2019-09-20T13:33:10.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks to @Graphus (see comments) I found my answer on this site at &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4139/ideal-outdoor-preservative-for-a-wooden-ornament&quot;&gt;Ideal outdoor preservative for a wooden ornament&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answering here so the question comes off the unanswered queue and no longer attracts attention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6323" LastActivityDate="2019-09-20T13:33:10.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9941" CreationDate="2019-09-21T20:35:49.047" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If anyone is interested, I've experimented a bit and learned a little about the difference between conventional molding and wood boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, I found that Home Depot has finger-jointed primed pine lumber like 1x3 1x4, etc that is very much like pre-made molding.  With a router, it's easy to round over the corners, and cut a shallow channel on the back to prevent rocking if there is old paint present.  I had wondered why molding had that channel on the back, but when I asked the salesman, they never knew.  The 1x3 boards were a little over $5 for 8 feet, where the similar molding was at least $1/foot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I found some plain cheap pine 1x3 boards for about $2 per 8 foot board, and with a little care, found some that were straight without any bad knotholes.  Once I primed them, they looked as good as the primed finger-jointed boards  Since I didn't need a full 8 feet, I could accept boards that had defects near one end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2910" LastActivityDate="2019-09-21T20:35:49.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9977" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-23T04:52:38.020" Score="3" ViewCount="14788" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I take linseed oil off wood that has dried sticky? It tried thinner, denatured alcohol, nothing works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7819" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-09-23T07:31:46.753" LastActivityDate="2021-09-25T03:15:18.940" Title="I put a heavy coat of linseed on a project I didn't wipe off excess. It didn't dry completely and left a sticky surface. How can I clean this off?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9978" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-23T06:25:55.827" Score="6" ViewCount="473" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make furniture. Therefore, whether I'm cutting a roughly cut piece of plywood or cutting a &quot;solid wood&quot; piece made from a gluing up smaller boards, I will certainly need to make wood panels with final dimensions around:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Width: 12-24 inch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Length: 12-36 inch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen two popular approaches for cutting wood panels: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Table saw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hand-held saws (track saw, circular saw, jigsaw, hand saw)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These approaches have their strengths and weaknesses in regards to accuracy, repeatability, safety, and physical effort. The details are for another discussion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it seems that the bandsaw has limited usefulness here due to its somewhat small cutting capacity (9-14 inch for models below $600). In fact, it seems that one would need to spend more than $4000 for a bandsaw with a 24&quot; cutting capacity, although I suppose a large table saw would have a similar price. Still, I wonder why bandsaws with a cutting capacity of 24&quot; and larger are not more common? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There seems to be a correlation between the cutting capacity of a bandsaw and the size of the wheels since the compact design puts the bandsaw's table spanning horizontally across the space between the upward and downward moving blades, see Figure 1 below. My question has to do with the proposed bandsaw design, shown on the right in figure 1, in which the table has been extended to the side and the fence is on the far side as well. Is there anything inadvisable about doing rip cuts on this proposed bandsaw design? &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EjHoZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EjHoZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Figure 1: (Left) traditional bandsaw design, (Right) proposed bandsaw design&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen some YouTube videos showing bandsaw table extensions. In-flow or out-flow extension tables can support long pieces of wood, but they are not what I'm interested in. Most (but not all) of the bandsaw &quot;side&quot; table extensions that I have seen are somewhat small &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nqpgRfS6Rz8&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;see this YouTube link&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;strong&gt;My question is whether there is anything problematic with ripping a panel on a large bandsaw side table while registering it against a fence that is also mounted on the side table?&lt;/strong&gt; I'm primarily asking about rip cuts here, but I would also be interested in your thoughts about having mitre slots in this large bandsaw side for cross cutting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that there must be something &quot;wrong&quot; with this idea or this would be a more common commercial tool. I appreciate your time and your thoughts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7820" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-09-23T07:24:58.730" LastActivityDate="2020-01-25T18:02:50.340" Title="Can a large bandsaw side table be useful for rip cuts?" Tags="|band-saw|rip-cut|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9979" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-23T19:27:28.600" Score="1" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making headway. I keep re-applying, scraping (plastic and steel wool), and wiping with mineral spirits. I have all low voc, etc., chemicals but how much can the little grooves in this wood really take?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, on the one flat side I stripped, it looks dull (I'm not sure if 'cloudy' would apply) even tho' I wiped it down with spirits nice. Is this normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The previous 1930's stain is showing thru, lighter in some places.  I'm psyched because it's gorgeous. I would like it darker. Do I have to strip THAT off or can I just go over it with stain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pls create better tags for me.  I'm new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7821" LastActivityDate="2019-09-23T19:27:28.600" Title="Removing multiple layers of paint on oak decorative door frames" Tags="|wood|staining|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9980" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-23T20:50:05.687" Score="3" ViewCount="174" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built some benches, they're pressure treated lumber currently finished with oil based stain and oil based satin finish spar urethane. Some of them have shellac between the stain and urethane because I didn't have time to let the stain dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're public benches and one of the problems I'm seeing is when people set a cigarette on the bench it burns the spar urethane, which bubbles then flakes right off. The stain underneath seems to hold up fine though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: Is there a clear finish that can go on top of spar urethane, or instead of it, or something I can mix with it, that will prevent or reduce the damage from cigarette burns?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not talking full on flame proofing these, just something to protect the spar urethane from high localized heat for short periods of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally it would also hold up as long or longer than the urethane, it's outside with heavy exposure to the elements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastActivityDate="2019-09-23T20:50:05.687" Title="Cigarette-proofing outdoor furniture" Tags="|finishing|finish-selection|outdoor|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9977" CreationDate="2019-09-24T13:45:15.897" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used mineral spirits in the past to do this.  Depending on how gummy things are (the earlier you do this, the better), you may need to scrub a bit, but given time it should come off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the future, you may want to dilute your linseed oil prior to applying - I find this makes things easier.  (Personally I use linseed oil / polyurethane / mineral spirits in a 1:1:2 ratio, but you could leave the poly out and just go 1:1 linseed oil / mineral spirits for a similar result).  The thinner solution helps you to not put it on too thick, and (may be anecdotal but it seems to work for me) helps to penetrate deeper into the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7515" LastActivityDate="2019-09-24T13:45:15.897" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9977" CreationDate="2019-09-25T22:16:45.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the good comments already made, I'll add that in order to remove &lt;em&gt;cured&lt;/em&gt; drying oil, you will have to mechanically, not chemically, remove them.  I am thinking a fine steel or brass wool, or maybe a scrubby pad, dampened with oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless it's unsightly though, I'd just leave it.  It will slowly cure.  It will never be hard, but it won't be gummy either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7614" LastActivityDate="2019-09-25T22:16:45.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9984" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-26T23:42:08.040" Score="2" ViewCount="196" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I cut out a circle  in exsisting wooden counter top and use the cut out piece as a lid (flush) so it doesnt fall through? e.g. a &quot;stepped edge? Obviously I am not using the correct terminologly, hopefully someone knows what I am trying to say. Thanks in advance to all replies, much appreciate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7830" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2019-09-27T00:59:17.277" LastActivityDate="2022-02-10T13:54:34.990" Title="How do I cut a circle with &quot;stepped&quot; edge in a countertop?" Tags="|technique|cutting|round|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2752" CreationDate="2019-09-28T22:52:00.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do guitar joinery,and I'll give you a method that's proven invaluable, and it starts with regular original Titebond glue in the red label. (I don't endorse them or anything, I suppose because they've never endorsed me, either.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, besides some clamps, the only other necessary element in pulling off this old circus trick is the planning ahead. You'll use minute amounts the size of a pencil eraser or so, applied with a slightly dampened q-tip or an artist's brush, painting these glue dots on one side of the surfaces to be temporarily joined, about a 1/4-inch to a 1/2-inch or so from the seam where the faces meet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll only need clamps to apply sufficient pressure for the recommended safe curing time. You get to decide where you can apply enough of those glue dots, perhaps adjusting the locations of some where wood is to be removed. this is to assure that, once cured, they'll hold the two pieces together safely for machining or shaping or carving or whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can complete those operations, and then pry the two pieces apart with any old thin blade, heated in boiling water if you like.  Gently push &amp;amp; rock the blade into each (marked) glue spot, and you're home free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7837" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-09-30T13:25:22.493" LastActivityDate="2019-09-30T13:25:22.493" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9986" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-29T15:49:01.423" Score="1" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a Gerton top for a desk and it is great.  I bought a second one and made some shelves from that.  I am very happy with this product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, I have some material left and would like to make a cutting board out of it.  I want to be sure that this material (or the finish on it) is safe for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can sand this if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7839" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-09-29T16:31:36.840" LastActivityDate="2019-09-29T16:31:36.840" Title="Tabletop offcut for cutting board, finishing" Tags="|sanding|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2752" CreationDate="2019-09-30T14:36:02.217" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turners tape.  It is the same thickness as masking tape, and holds very securely.  I use the stuff from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodcraft.com/products/double-faced-tape-1-x-36-yds&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Woodcraft&lt;/a&gt;.  It is fairly expensive, but holds extremely well.  Rockler sells something similar.  Leaves no residue if removed in a reasonable time frame (I seldom leave it on for more than a day).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2019-09-30T14:36:02.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9989" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-30T16:27:50.150" Score="3" ViewCount="90" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to build a wooden base for a PC monitor which I can elevate or lower infinitely variable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The height of the base/platform should be between 5cm and 10-12cm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of mechanism can I use? My first thought was something hydraulic but if there is another solution it wouldn't matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The monitor weights ~12kg. Space behind the monitor is ~10cm. The complete construct should simply stand on a table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7840" LastEditorUserId="7840" LastEditDate="2019-10-02T08:14:16.677" LastActivityDate="2019-10-02T08:14:16.677" Title="Height-adjustable base for monitor" Tags="|table-making|weight-capacity|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9984" CreationDate="2019-10-01T08:08:02.807" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't do exactly what you want.  The problem is that however you cut round the lid, there will be some thickness which you turn into sawdust (the kerf).  If we ignore the difficulty of cutting a stepped edge, it will end up like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;|:&#xA; --------&#xA; _____  :&#xA;      | :&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where the solid lines represent the edge of the hole, and the dotted lines the kerf.  The horizontal kerf will cause the lid to drop - so it won't be flush, and the vertical kerf will cause the lid to slip from side to side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you could do, is to cut a cylindrical hole (either with a jig saw, or with a large hole saw), line the hole with a contrasting material (aluminium, stainless steel, a contrasting wood, rubber, etc), and fit a lip under the worktop so that the lid fits snugly into the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, as Graphus suggests in a comment, use a different piece of wood to make the lid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, you will need to put a handle in the lid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1646" LastActivityDate="2019-10-01T08:08:02.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9961" CreationDate="2019-10-01T13:13:55.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is similar to beading curvy edges. Tools similar to beading tools can be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bring it close with whatever cutting tool you can - chisel, hand plane, knife or so. Then make a scratch stock to finish it off and to make it consistent everywhere. Scratch stock or beading tool can have whatever profile you want, but you have to file a piece of thin metal for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aboRZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aboRZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Scratch Stock&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you want it to have machined look with consistent chamfer then just use machines (like electric router). Hand tools and machines they all have their own strong sides and their own distinctive look. Matching them always to each other is probably not a good approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Picture is from this article and gives even more details to this topic: &lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.lostartpress.com/2018/10/27/working-a-moulding-around-a-curved-edge/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Working a Moulding Around a Curved Edge&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4189" LastEditorUserId="4189" LastEditDate="2019-10-02T09:19:09.043" LastActivityDate="2019-10-02T09:19:09.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9" CreationDate="2019-10-02T21:38:09.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have turned a few green bowls cross grain after turning I sand them down. Then, I use a old micro wave oven to heat them up some, 1- 1 1/2 mins. at a time. then take them out, and set them on a shelf for a while to cool. reheating them several times over a mater of days. have had good luck with that. Thinking of getting Wood Juice to put on some to see how that works. but so far cutting board oil has been used with good results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7851" LastActivityDate="2019-10-02T21:38:09.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9994" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9996" CreationDate="2019-10-03T03:03:33.807" Score="2" ViewCount="689" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently painted a dresser. I originally painted it a darker gray than I wanted so after putting the initial two coats on I took the paint back to Home Depot and had them lighten the rest of the gallon for me. The paint was not tacky at this point in the process. After applying the additional two coats the finish product is tacky. I'm pretty sure my mistake was too thick of an application on the last two coats. I thought the sheen was better with thicker coats...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that it is tacky I'm considering applying a water-based polyurethane to help with the tackiness and give additional protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just concerned with the polyurethane affecting the color of the dresser. Have you found that water based polyurethane affects paint color?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7854" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-10-03T07:31:27.917" LastActivityDate="2019-10-03T07:45:35.900" Title="Does water-based polyurethane affect paint color?" Tags="|finishing|furniture|polyurethane|paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9994" CreationDate="2019-10-03T07:45:35.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the paint is gloss&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, no. If the paint is matt&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, yes. For sheens in between the effect will be somewhere in the middle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If in doubt do a test on some scrap, or on an inconspicuous spot of the project piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Note however that a gloss paint might require you to dull it down to ensure good adhesion between the paint and the overlying clear finish. If the paint and clear finish are of similar chemistry (both oil-based or both waterbased) and the paint was applied fairy recently this isn't likely to be necessary. But in the case of older paint, that has had a chance to fully &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/884/what-is-the-difference-between-curing-and-drying/897?r=SearchResults&amp;amp;s=1|27.5109#897&quot;&gt;cure&lt;/a&gt;, this is highly advisable in all cases. You can dull the paint down by &lt;em&gt;lightly&lt;/em&gt; sanding, scuffing with fine steel wool or a nylon abrasive, or using a liquid deglosser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; The colour will appear darker with a slight increase in saturation (obvious sometimes but not always, depending on the original colour). Or, as commonly said, the paint will look &quot;deeper&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-10-03T07:45:35.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9997" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9999" CreationDate="2019-10-03T18:00:09.350" Score="3" ViewCount="688" Body="&lt;p&gt;Blade rookie here. I have a 1.5HP table saw with a 10&quot; blade. The blades I have been using are fairly new higher tooth finishing blades, such as the Diablo 1060X. To avoid the friction burns when ripping and cross cutting 3/4&quot; birch, I started having to cut only an 1/8th&quot; deep at a time, raising the blade between passes. I'm looking for advice on which blades to help make my process more efficient, as I have several hundred cuts to make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lower tooth ripping blade (Diablo 1024X) sounds like it'll make rips cuts much quicker, and I'm led to believe that the edge will actually be quite smooth. I would love to have as close to finished edges as reasonably possible. This blade sounds like a no-brainer to try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I don't see any specialized crosscutting blades. What's my best bet to make these more efficient? With such a hard wood, would I always be expected to need to make multiple passes in a 3/4&quot; board to avoid burning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; &#xA;I'm cutting 200 6&quot;x3&quot;x3/4&quot; blocks of birch. Planning to rip ~7&quot; wide boards to get the 3&quot; wide dimension, then cross cutting to the 6&quot; using a sled. (Whenever I use my miter saw, even with a stop block, it ends up grabbing and moving the piece slightly at the start so the cut isn't perfect.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Solved:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I did multiple things at once... Got a new blade, aligned it to within 0.001 (it was 0.025 off), aligned my fence to within 0.001 (it was 0.020 off) and now have no issues cutting full height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7858" LastEditorUserId="7858" LastEditDate="2019-10-18T14:42:09.057" LastActivityDate="2019-10-18T19:23:04.040" Title="Avoiding saw burn in hardwood crosscuts" Tags="|table-saw|hardwood|saw-blade|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9997" CreationDate="2019-10-03T18:53:46.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would start by getting a micrometer and making sure the blade is exactly parallel to the miter slot.  If it's slightly off, the back end of the blade will hit the wood and burn it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two, are you using a splitter to hold the piece open as you pass the piece through?  Without a splitter the wood can close up on the blade and the back end of the blade will be pinched and burn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Three, what's the application for this?  Hundreds of cross cuts is probably better cut on a miter saw with a stop block than on a table saw, plus you'll get exact duplicate parts each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1781" LastActivityDate="2019-10-03T18:53:46.530" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9997" CreationDate="2019-10-03T19:42:31.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your situation could be a couple of things. First, whatever you're using to brace/hold the workpiece as it meets the blade is not 90 degrees to the blade. That could mean your blade is not parallel to the miter slot (which is most likely) or that you're using the original miter gauge to support the workpiece and its slide bar is loose in the miter slot which lets the piece shift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using a cross-cut sled, then it's almost always the blade being out of parallel. Occasionally it happens if the workpiece moves as you push the sled, but that's easily resolved by gluing a piece of sandpaper along the bottom of the rear and using clamps to hold the workpiece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aligning a blade is a right PITA, but it is worth the time and effort. You ought to be able to find at least one youtube video of someone aligning a blade for your model saw or a procedure in the saw's manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last thing is not cutting fast enough :-) You don't want to try and jam the wood onto the blade, but you shouldn't dawdle, either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7721" LastEditorUserId="7721" LastEditDate="2019-10-18T19:23:04.040" LastActivityDate="2019-10-18T19:23:04.040" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9997" CreationDate="2019-10-03T21:42:57.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aside from ensuring that your saw is set up correctly (e.g. that the blade is parallel to the bed and fence of your saw table), it's important to be aware of the different types of blade and how they will affect the cutting performance and finish. Ideally, you will use a ripping blade for ripping cuts and a crosscut blade for cross cuts - it's not just the tooth count that's different, the tooth geometry, rake angle etc. are different too:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3a4hv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3a4hv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rip vs Crosscut blades&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also &quot;Combination&quot; or &quot;Universal&quot; type blades which are a compromise between the two types - they don't perform as well as a specialised blade at either operation, but they will perform better for ripping than a dedicated crosscut blade and vice versa. This is good for if you have to regularly swap between operations, and/or swapping blades often is not practical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that within each category there are different blades also, with different materials, tooth counts and configurations, geometry, rake angles etc. - it's a complicated subject.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more in-depth information you could do worse than trying to talk to a circular saw manufacturer's rep. Describe what it is that you're doing and they'll help you pick the right blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2019-10-03T21:42:57.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10001" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-04T07:38:24.047" Score="1" ViewCount="112" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built a simple table. I stained each piece before final gluing and construction.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure how to polyurethane the table.  I am concerned about both getting an even coat that doesn't run and how to coat the entire thing at once (do I skip the bottom of the feet?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I do different sections at a time?  All at once?  Brush on the top and spray on the legs?  Brush everywhere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lKxDX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The Table in Question&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7850" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2019-10-04T15:50:17.547" LastActivityDate="2019-10-04T15:50:17.547" Title="Strategy for coating a built table with polyurethane?" Tags="|finishing|technique|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10002" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10004" CreationDate="2019-10-04T14:44:28.623" Score="3" ViewCount="4940" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to drill holes most of the way through a block of wood to mount magnets which will be attracting metal through the solid face of the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of how quickly magnetic attraction falls off, I want to leave a minimum of wood (less than 1/8&quot;). I'm using forstner Bits with a drill press today, but my issue is that the Brad Point is long enough that without puncturing the face of the wood the magnets produce insufficient pull.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since forstner Bits are edge guided, it seems like the brad point is unnecessary except for lining up where the hole goes. Are there versions of a forstner bit that don't have the brad point? If not, would I create a problem for myself if I ground off the tip on my bit? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7859" LastActivityDate="2019-10-04T16:03:51.630" Title="Forstner Bits without Brad Point?" Tags="|drill-bits|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10002" CreationDate="2019-10-04T15:28:30.037" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &quot;typical&quot; design for forstner bits is one where the brad point is no deeper than (and often even with) the cutting edges, which means they are suitable for creating flat-bottom holes or insets. That is, the point on many traditional forstner bits should be no longer than the cutting edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Removing the point will cause it to wander unless you are really careful. Even in a drill press I suspect it would oval out a little, but I suppose this depends on the total tooling setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, find bits that are designed to make flat-bottom holes and you should be ok if you are careful with your depth of cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you could cut the holes with a plunge router and a suitable bit. This might be overkill, but it is often how euro-style cabinets are machined to accept those inset round hinges. Though, this is usually done in a factory. In a home shop, a sharp forstner bit at the right speed and feed should do well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2019-10-04T15:28:30.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10002" CreationDate="2019-10-04T16:03:51.630" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you grind off the tip you'll want to use a guide block to make sure the bit doesn't wander when you're starting the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make a guide block just drill a hole the same size through another piece of wood and line it up with where you want your hole to be.  Clamp it to the work piece and your drill bit won't wander.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also useful if you want to drill a larger hole accurately at an angle.  Just make your guide block straight in a larger piece of wood and then cut it to the appropriate angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other issue with not having a tip is that the material won't be cleared from the center of the hole.  This might require a pilot hole or increased feed pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2019-10-04T16:03:51.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9997" CreationDate="2019-10-05T08:02:38.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since it wasn't touched on in the Question and hasn't been addressed since do make sure your blade is clean. If you've been cutting a resinous wood, or certain sheet goods, the blade could have resin buildup on and around the teeth and this can &lt;em&gt;significantly&lt;/em&gt; affect cutting performance. I wanted to lead with this as you mention you're a blade rookie so you might not be aware of this issue yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming your saw is set up adequately there are a few things that could improve results, without having to look at a new blade as a fix. Although a purpose-made blade for the cut being done is undeniably the best thing to use for specific cuts in hardwoods. This is why they're made after all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do every cut twice&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This sounds like a big hassle but you'd soon get used to it, and if a greatly improved cut surface is what you want and is achieved it is obviously worth it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first cut is slightly outside of your line, then you reposition slightly and make a second pass that basically just makes dust. Something similar is done in router work if going for a high-end result, the second pass sometimes referred to as a 'dust pass'. In addition to removing any scorching this can produce a really excellent surface, far better than you might guess. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, some scraping or sanding should still be expected to produce the best finish possible which is my next point... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Expect to have to clean up the sawn face&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For show surface it's not unrealistic to never use an edge directly from the saw. Always intend to sand, scrape or plane after sawing. This is good general practice with any cuts, &lt;em&gt;as well as with &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; shaping done with power tools&lt;/em&gt; — after all, one shouldn't even use the surface left by a planer or jointer and those should be far far better than produced by even the best table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to emphasise, this applies to show surfaces. The standards are/can be different for surfaces that won't be seen in service, and joint faces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm also pretty much pushing the thing as fast as I can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's too fast. Let the saw do the work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is basically a universal principle in all sawing, and it also applies to other power tools. You can get awful results with a router for example by pushing too quickly, or too high a feed rate as it would usually be said. With no changes made to the setup except for slowing down to the ideal feed rate you can get a really nice finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exact speed to use will depend on species, grain and cut direction, bit type and some other factors, so some experimentation may be required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-10-05T08:02:38.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10006" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-05T17:09:34.003" Score="4" ViewCount="365" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was given a teak patio set that has some damage   that I cannot identify as mold or wear.  In either case I don’t know how to fix it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uBSrs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;this kind of damage&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve read a bunch of articles about how to clean with a mixture of water, bleach and detergent. Or bar keeper’s friend. But it looks to me like it’s wear. And I don’t know if I should sand it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on how to identify and fix would be great. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7861" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-10-06T08:16:56.933" LastActivityDate="2019-10-06T08:16:56.933" Title="How can I distinguish between mold or wear in teak?" Tags="|furniture|wood-repair|outdoor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10006" CreationDate="2019-10-06T08:16:28.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;But it looks to me like it’s wear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the finish has clearly been lost here (the grey areas) and it's very likely that it is partly due to wear given the location, but weathering effects are sure to be part of the underlying cause. The original film finish or semi-penetrating finish has been damaged by UV and water and this will start the process of it flaking/peeling from the surface even without direct wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;And I don’t know if I should sand it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In refinishing it's often ideal to get back to bare wood and begin again, but often outdoor pieces don't have to look quite as perfect as interior furniture so this isn't standard practice and top-up work is more commonly done. This generally involves cleaning, light surface sanding and the application of a fresh coat or two of finish. In this case I think it's quite possible you'll be satisfied with the results achieved by applying a fresh coat of finish after a good scrub and a light overall sanding (with more and heavier sanding of upper areas, esp. horizontal surfaces).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a case-by-case thing as you'd expect, but from the background of the photo it looks like a lot of the finish is in good shape and just needs a refresh to continue looking good and providing protection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you power-wash the pieces this could considerably lessen the amount of sanding you need to do. It could lift off quite a bit or all of the remaining finish that's been damaged by weathering. See the images in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3778/can-i-run-pressure-treated-deck-boards-through-thickness-planer/3787#3787&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt; for the quite remarkable transformations possible with power washing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After this or any other washing/cleaning procedure let the pieces thoroughly dry for 1-2 days. Then sand every surface as outlined above, remove the dust&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; and apply fresh finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some experimentation may be required to find a suitable finish, but a product like commercial &quot;Teak oil&quot; may be a good match for what's on these already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; this process of lightly sanding the surface and re-applying finish is the maintenance schedule for finished patio furniture like this. It needs to be done regularly&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, forever. You can't skip or delay a scheduled refinish without consequences, and rectifying the issues will entail much more work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The alternative, much more acceptable to many owners, is to remove as much finish as effort allows to get as close to bare wood as possible and then deliberately leave it to weather to grey. Not only does this greatly lessen the maintenance work required (you only have to clean once or twice a year) but many find the grey colour very attractive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; It's advisable to wear a good dust mask during sanding and dust removal, even if working outdoors. Tropical woods like teak are known irritants and sensitisers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Yearly if the conditions are challenging (near the sea, lots of sun and/or rain), every 2-4 years for milder locations, 3-5 years where there's some cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-10-06T08:16:28.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10009" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-07T09:52:15.917" Score="1" ViewCount="874" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have wooden furniture (bed and more) with feet which look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a3PWQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a3PWQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are thin weak parts which get chipped away easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a vacuum cleaner like this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MMIOo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MMIOo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is old and with questionable navigation algorithms (it's 6 years old after all) which tends to scratch the furniture when it circles around it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to put teflon tape the sides of the vacuum to make it smoother (after 6 years the plastic is scratched and rough), but I doubt it will be enough.&#xA;See the tape:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x8pbc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x8pbc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I protect the wood to last longer and avoid chipping/scratching?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought about using office transparent tape, however I know from past experience that the glue will dry up in few years and the residues will be difficult to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which kind of transparent product can I use, in addition to the teflon tape on the vacuum, to protect the furniture?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer (or the comments) of course may comprise tips for restoring the damages that are already there, but the question is about future protection and not about restoration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4774" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2019-10-08T07:34:50.550" LastActivityDate="2019-10-08T07:34:50.550" Title="Protect wood furniture legs from damage" Tags="|physical-protection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10009" CreationDate="2019-10-07T14:44:58.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like the damage is being done by impact rather than abrasion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The teflon tape might help, but I don't think it will eliminate future damage. You might get the protection you want by using self-stick foam or glued on felt weatherstripping applied to the vacuum. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe something like this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07TXJNG2C&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Door Weather Stripping&lt;/a&gt; or this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0025KUSY6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Heavy-Duty Self Adhesive Weatherstrip&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood stain &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07R5F37FG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;touch-up markers/crayons like this&lt;/a&gt; may help hide the damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2019-10-07T14:54:25.737" LastActivityDate="2019-10-07T14:54:25.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10011" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-07T15:02:03.447" Score="1" ViewCount="100" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a laser cutter to create intricate shapes out of 1/4 inch thick re-sawn pine, then laminate them together to form 1/2 and 3/4 inch thick structural elements in small boxes, corbels and briefcases.   Sometimes my intricate designs defy easy clamping during the laminating step, sliding laterally out of alignment and leaving ledges which must be sanded away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the goal is 3 layers for a thickness of 3/4 inch or more, I've been successful using a corded nailer to pin the layers in place while the glue is still wet.  That technique doesn't work for 2 layer thick constructions because the smallest pins which that nailer can handle are longer than the construction's 1/2 inch thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What techniques are available to laminate small wooden objects together which provide precise lateral placement of each object in relation to each other, yet results in a strong, permanent bond?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="147" LastEditorUserId="147" LastEditDate="2019-10-07T22:19:36.490" LastActivityDate="2019-10-11T19:08:55.690" Title="Laminating Small Wooden Objects Together" Tags="|technique|glue|clamps|laminating|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10012" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10013" CreationDate="2019-10-07T19:27:46.700" Score="4" ViewCount="1719" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a cart to hold my 60 lbs mitre saw. I'm using 3/4&quot; Sande plywood. I plan on building the box using glued, pocket hole butt joints illustrated below. Keep in mind that I do plan on adding a shelf about 2/3 up from the bottom of the base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, which is the better design for the cart, given the weight that it will hold. Originally, I was planning on Option 2. However, every video and plan I can find for similar carts uses option 1. To me, option 2 puts less force on the joints themselves and takes advantage of plywood's great compression strength qualities. Whereas, option 1 puts a lot of shear force on the joints. Maybe it simply doesn't matter and that's why I'm only finding examples of option 1. Either way, I want to make sure there's nothing I'm missing anything in either design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V6BvI.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V6BvI.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7865" LastActivityDate="2019-10-07T21:24:21.463" Title="Pocket Hole Butt Joint" Tags="|joinery|butt-joint|joints|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10012" CreationDate="2019-10-07T21:24:21.463" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your initial thinking is correct.  You're much better loading the sides directly than transferring the load through a joint in a shearing manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first method of construction is more typical in cabinetry because the load isn't usually directly on the top sheet, it is on a countertop that spans the sides.  This effectively transforms it into the situation in your second diagram, where the sides are directly loaded.  If you are going to have &quot;point&quot; loads on the top you want the top to be over the sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, if you plan to have a heavy load on the shelf in the middle you'd be better off setting it in dadoes in the sides than using pocket holes.  If this isn't an option then I'd use ledger boards over pocket holes or shelf pins.  Though if you're gluing it in addition to pocket holes it'll probably be fine up to at least 100 lbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2019-10-07T21:24:21.463" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10014" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-07T23:31:38.543" Score="1" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making wall-mounted bottle openers with magnets below the opener to catch the bottle caps as they fall after they're removed.  The magnets are &quot;rare earth&quot; magnets with a metallic surface.  The front face will be veneered (as will the back for balance.)  I was planning on drilling a hole in the substrate before veneering and gluing the magnet in before veneering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am worried that the veneer will not bond to the magnet if I use a normal veneer glue (i.e. Titebond cold press or similar.)  Should I use a different type of glue for the veneering process?  Can I coat the inset magnet with something that will bond to both the metal surface and the veneer glue?  Should I bond a layer of veneer to the magnets with another type of glue (CA or epoxy) before inlaying them into the substrate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The panels will be 4&quot; x 9&quot; and the magnets are 1 1/4&quot; in diameter.  I am using commercial veneer, thinner than 1/32&quot;.  The substrate will be 3/4&quot; MDF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2019-10-07T23:38:40.227" LastActivityDate="2019-10-07T23:38:40.227" Title="Veneering over inlaid metal" Tags="|glue|veneer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10011" CreationDate="2019-10-09T07:14:09.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What techniques are available to laminate small wooden objects together which provide precise lateral placement of each object in relation to each other, yet results in a strong, permanent bond? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously you can use nails or screws, both going into pre-drilled holes if necessary to help with exact location and speedy placement, and driven from the back if you don't want anything visible on the finished item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But a great trick that's much more expedient is to &lt;strong&gt;use superglue like 'tack welds'&lt;/strong&gt; in select locations, with your primary adhesive spread on the majority of the glue surface. This is a great trick for getting a strong initial hold without the use of any mechanical fasteners, or clamps, while still getting the strength and reliability provided by the main adhesive whatever it is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However you should note that if you are using a PVA-type glue (white or yellow) maximum bond strength is only achieved by high clamp pressures. For small boxes and decorative pieces this may not be a particular concern, but where high strength is needed but strong clamps aren't available/can't be used and mechanical fasteners aren't an option (these act like tiny clamps) epoxy should be chosen as the main adhesive. In both cases the bond faces should be refreshed by a light sanding unless just revealed by any prior operation, see previous Question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4151/what-do-i-need-to-do-to-prepare-wood-for-gluing/4159#4159&quot;&gt;What do I need to do to prepare wood for gluing?&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-10-09T07:14:09.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10018" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-09T23:33:54.760" Score="2" ViewCount="494" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a Delta 36-725 on Craigslist after seeing a lot of really positive reviews on it, especially about its fence. However, I can't get my fence to lock down accurately at all. When the fenced isn't locked down, it has a TON of play in it. Moving it side to side causes it to twist, making it really hard to accurately place it, especially when making small adjustments. When I do lock it down, it will be out of alignment one way or the other depending on which direction it was twisted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that kind of play back and forth normal for this saw? Is something broken or not setup correctly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a video that might help explain what I'm talking about: &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/open?id=1eELYh1CX33am5iQKiN1j_8pryoRMmgmH&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://drive.google.com/open?id=1eELYh1CX33am5iQKiN1j_8pryoRMmgmH&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7876" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-10-10T08:13:55.937" LastActivityDate="2019-10-11T16:41:13.893" Title="Help getting Delta fence accurate" Tags="|table-saw|tool-maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10019" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10020" CreationDate="2019-10-10T19:37:39.443" Score="6" ViewCount="15348" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased some furniture that has wooden elements to it that ended up being unfinished.  Should I be concerned about this?  During the more humid months, will these elements grow mold on them? For reference, I live in Massachusetts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would prefer to not have to finish these products, and am just trying to determine from individuals with more experience than myself if this is an issue.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7878" LastEditorUserId="7878" LastEditDate="2019-10-10T20:13:55.453" LastActivityDate="2021-11-10T22:30:56.027" Title="Can I leave indoor wooden furniture unfinished or will it grow mold?" Tags="|finishing|durability|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10019" CreationDate="2019-10-11T07:49:42.323" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I purchased some furniture that has wooden elements to it that ended up being unfinished. Should I be concerned about this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's extremely common for certain parts of furniture, even fine furniture, to have no finish on them. Drawer boxes, the inside surfaces of cabinets and chests of drawers, the backs of pieces intended to go against a wall, seat supports in chairs and the undersides of tabletops have all been — and continue to be — left as bare wood. If you check the relevant parts of furniture that you already owned I'm sure you'll discover examples, in solid wood as well as in plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leaving wood unfinished can actually be a perfectly acceptable option &lt;em&gt;even in high-humidity parts of the house like kitchens and bathrooms&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;During the more humid months, will these elements grow mold on them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While mould spores are omnipresent in most environments bare wood isn't a great food supply for many fungi, and indoors in a typical domestic interior* the conditions aren't favourable for the growth of moulds in general and certainly not those that can digest wood. One good way for the non-woodworker (and some woodworkers!) to look at this is that bare wood is no more prone to mould growth than the exposed edges of paper in books, and nobody gives them a second thought. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Certain levels of cleaning/dusting, heating during the colder months and good airflow being presumed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-10-11T07:49:42.323" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10019" CreationDate="2019-10-11T11:27:13.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You won't have mold, but you'll probably ruin any surface which is not finished and is used.  A finish protects the surface.  The first time someone puts ANY cup or glass on it, and you're going to have a ring that you won't be able to get out without sanding it out, because any moisture will wick into the wood fibers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A finish prevents that from happening.  At least hit the thing with 2 or 3 coats some tung oil finish.  Easy to apply and hard to screw up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1781" LastActivityDate="2019-10-11T11:27:13.183" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10018" CreationDate="2019-10-11T16:41:13.893" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had tightened the adjustment screws down further based on some other comments I've seen online, but it wasn't until I went to Lowe's last night and looked at the one on display that I realized that they needed to be screwed in even further. After adjusting them so that they were actually below the surface by a few turns, and then adjusting it from there to make them even, it finally slides back and forth smoothly and locks down consistently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7876" LastActivityDate="2019-10-11T16:41:13.893" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10011" CreationDate="2019-10-11T19:08:55.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may consider making a clamping jig to hold the parts in alignment while the glue dries under clamp pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start with a thick piece of stock, maybe 3/4&quot; plywood, or a piece of 2x4&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw the outline of the parts to be clamped&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill holes just outside the outline of the parts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insert dowels - metal ones should prevent PVA glue from sticking&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure that the dowel height is &lt;em&gt;greater&lt;/em&gt; than the thickness of one piece being clamped, but &lt;em&gt;less&lt;/em&gt; than the thickness of both pieces (i.e. about 3/8&quot; should stick up above the surface of the jig for your 1/4&quot; thick stock)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Line the jig with some wax paper to prevent the glue from sticking to the jig&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glue up your pieces and insert them in the jig&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place one side of the clamp under the base of the jig and the other on the top piece being glued and tighten.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt; Plywood would probably work much better than dimensional lumber. Even better might be plastic stock (for example PVC trim &quot;wood&quot;) to help prevent gluing your parts to the jig with squeeze-out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The number and placement of the pins would, of course, depend on the shape you're clamping. I'll assume that you can figure out which way things would like to move and place the pins to prevent movement in those directions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could make additional jigs with taller pins to support the glue-up of 3-layer laminations as well. While I understand that you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; pin-nail them together, you may decide that you like the non-nailed versions better and this would allow you to avoid that if you choose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2019-10-11T19:08:55.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10024" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-12T09:18:58.290" Score="-1" ViewCount="347" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/mistakes-first-time-bench-builders/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;One article on workbench design&lt;/a&gt; said the following was a basic mistake of first time builders:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;6&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Building the DIY workbench too deep&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There are many reasons that workbenches plans aren’t 48” deep. The&#xA;  workbench is a lot less useful if it’s that deep. Here’s a hint, the&#xA;  benchtop should be less deep than your casework to make it easier to&#xA;  work on the casework.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They don't really explain this too well. What are the &quot;many reasons&quot; 48&quot; is too deep?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am building a workbench that is not just for woodworking but metalworking tasks like supporting tools such as a 3-ton arbor press. Also, I may be working with 4x8 sheet goods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2019-10-22T18:07:42.563" Title="Why is 48&quot; too deep for a workbench?" Tags="|workbench|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10025" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-12T09:26:25.247" Score="0" ViewCount="299" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve been wanting to try and use a chisel holder tool post like on a metal lathe on a wood lathe for a while now, I’ve looked a bit online but didn’t find any tool holders that are made for wood lathes. Does anyone know maybe where I should look? Do you know if maybe a metal lathe tool holder would work? I joined this community right when I found a thread on here about the idea, after searching google for weeks lol so any guidance would be greatly appreciated ❤️ I’m relatively new at woodturning, but an avid woodworker for about 6 years&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7716" LastActivityDate="2019-10-12T09:26:25.247" Title="Metal lathe tool post on a wood lathe" Tags="|lathe|woodturning|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10026" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-12T09:34:52.097" Score="3" ViewCount="1544" Body="&lt;p&gt;One challenge of working with sheet goods is doing a really wide cut, for example cutting a 4 x 8 sheet into two 4x4 sheets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem I run into is that I can't reach across a 48&quot; board or panel, so if I am using a rail saw, it is difficult and requires awkward things like climbing on top of the table. Of course, it is easy with a panel saw and frame that holds the board upright, but I do not have a panel saw system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2020-05-03T14:20:30.770" LastActivityDate="2020-05-03T14:20:30.770" Title="How do you cut a 4x8 in half without a panel saw?" Tags="|cutting|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10024" CreationDate="2019-10-12T09:53:11.067" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most woodworking benches are designed to be against walls (partly for lighting) and 48&quot; is a long way to reach across a bench. With less wide benches you can also support casework over the end of the bench. Space and cost are other considerations which favour smaller benches. Given situations where you would gain via adding width are rare for a bench designed for woodworking, length is typically prioritized so you can support longer stock. Additionally, other support solutions like bents can easily be used to add length or width without taking up too much space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your 48&quot; bench isn't against a wall and you can use both sides it should work ok for both cases without much compromise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7880" LastActivityDate="2019-10-12T09:53:11.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10026" CreationDate="2019-10-13T02:35:51.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For this purpose a clamped guide batten and a handsaw (I first read the post thinking panel saw in the handtool sense, with slight confusion!) are probably the most flexible and frugal solution. For support, this would be best paired with a few saw horses and 2x4s as commented above. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course this depends on how often you'll need to do it, and how precise you need the cut. With a sharp saw and a bit of repetition you might end up with similar results to more expensive options without needing another powerpoint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7880" LastActivityDate="2019-10-13T02:35:51.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10026" CreationDate="2019-10-14T13:44:59.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A circular saw and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Sawboard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sawboard&lt;/a&gt; make this straightforward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A sawboard is a home-made guide consisting of a straight-edge fastened permanently to a wooden base plate.  As original build the base plate is too wide.  The final step in building the sawboard is to run the circular saw along the straight-edge to cut the base plate to exactly the correct width.  In use the edge of the base plate can be lined up &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; with where the cut is required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1646" LastActivityDate="2019-10-14T13:44:59.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10030" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-14T15:45:47.770" Score="2" ViewCount="328" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently been using a table saw to rip cheap 2 X 4 pine for projects. However, it takes a long time to sand these down to a nice finish, and trying to keep them square is difficult. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm considering buying a cheap jointer/thickenesser. What are your experiences with them? Do you think it will greatly reduced the sanding needed and time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7883" LastActivityDate="2019-10-17T18:29:54.337" Title="Planer/jointer/thicknesser worth it?" Tags="|sanding|jointer|thickness-planer|sander|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10026" CreationDate="2019-10-14T16:29:36.037" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I lay the sheet on top of a 4x8 piece of 2in pink foam insulation board and then just walk/crawl on top of it while pushing the saw along the track. Unless it's a really delicate material, I've never had any trouble. You could also lay a moving blanket and/or a thicker plank on top of where you crawl to spread out the load and avoid any scratches or damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7884" LastActivityDate="2019-10-14T16:29:36.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10026" CreationDate="2019-10-15T15:00:33.767" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was in the trades we use various guides and rails and such to break down sheet goods. When you run out of arm when pushing the saw you just have to reposition yourself safely. What &lt;em&gt;safely&lt;/em&gt; means is dependent on how many people are doing the cut and how comfortable you are with the saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice, what this amounted to is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You stop the saw mid-cut and reposition yourself and then restart the saw (back it up a bit so it is free to spin up) and continue with the cut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have a second person take over from a safe position, restarting the saw in the same cut again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't recommend this, but in some cases I observed people leave the saw free-running so they could reposition their reach and continue the cut. This was very common, actually.&#xA;But a stopped and restarted cut with most sheet goods is fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-10-16T15:23:30.250" LastActivityDate="2019-10-16T15:23:30.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10033" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-16T00:13:00.073" Score="0" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;Super novice question!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blade speed at the points is the same regardless. Only the angle of attack changes. What are the pros and cons? I'd like to minimize chip out most of all since I'm working with very crappy material (plywood and melamine-faced chipboard).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l06hW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l06hW.png&quot; alt=&quot;blade depth&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am also interested if it's the same for other power saws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7889" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-10-16T14:48:47.237" LastActivityDate="2019-10-16T14:48:47.237" Title="is it better to use more blade or just enough blade?" Tags="|power-tools|saw-blade|blade|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4656" CreationDate="2019-10-16T03:20:11.857" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on chainsaw model. On some model of Husqvarna chainsaw, you can change the bar length and chain setting(pitch/gauge), on some model you cannot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in most cases, you can use a smaller or larger bar than the stock bar size. Check the manual or product description in online. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7891" LastActivityDate="2019-10-16T03:20:11.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10035" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10036" CreationDate="2019-10-16T17:53:22.300" Score="1" ViewCount="135" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a bit of a cheat because I am not a 'woodworking' enthusiast, but our company does make furniture. My question is simple. In the photo .. why is there a really straight line (that looks almost like a joined piece of wood) through this knot here. I've even asked the manufacturer and she says that it is natural (but she's not 100% sure so she's going to look into it). Just wondering if anyone could lend any advice here? She showed me some other photos of timber which also has really straight lines. The wood is FSC acacia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course there doesn't seem to be any rational explanation for going to all that time to join two thin little bits of wood together. So it presumably is natural.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;p.s. I couldn't see a forum for manufacturing .. there was one called The Workplace but didn't seem appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/etmcy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/etmcy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Straight Line through Knot&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7892" LastActivityDate="2019-10-16T18:08:01.473" Title="Why is there a perfectly straight line at the edge of this knot?" Tags="|knots|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10035" CreationDate="2019-10-16T18:08:01.473" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;That board is actually two separate boards that have been glued together.  When one of them was ripped (i.e. cut lengthwise) it went through the knot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see that along the entire length of that slat none of the grain flows through that seam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2019-10-16T18:08:01.473" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9977" CreationDate="2019-10-16T21:06:18.520" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I accidentally left some danish oil on a piece once (a hectic day/mind slip) over a weekend. I just applied some more oil to a cloth and gave it a good rub and it worked a charm. There was a lot of oil on the cloth when I was done which I used to oil a few small pieces I'd lying around that I'd never coated. Waste not want not and all that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7893" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-11-21T20:52:38.140" LastActivityDate="2019-11-21T20:52:38.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10030" CreationDate="2019-10-17T15:07:07.683" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I belong to a makerspace which has a really great wood working section.  My favorite tool is the laser cutter but I got tired of the look of 1/4&quot; thick plywood and wanted to experiment with other woods.  So I asked some of the other members to teach me how to resaw and render 1/4&quot; &quot;Laser food&quot; stock out of cedar and pine 2x6's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We tried both the table saw and the band saw and I was more comfortable with the band saw.  I cut the 2x6's into 3 foot sections (which fit in the laser cutter) and then use a marking tool to draw 3 equidistant lines along the narrow (1.5&quot;) side such that the wood is divided into 4 sections, each 3 foot by 6&quot; by about 1/3&quot; thick.   Then I use the band saw to actually cut the wood along those lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I have all my sections cut, I feed them through the planner on both sides, repeating the process until they are all 1/4&quot; thick.  I then stack them in my garage with 1/4&quot; scraps between them (like saw mills do) to let them dry.  After about a month, they are ready to feed to the laser.  Because of how thin I slice them, I get a bit of warping but also because of the thinness, I can easily clamp them back to flat within the laser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to answer your question(s)...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flatness/Squareness? : The planner give me wonderfully flat and square sheets.  When using the laser, small discrepancies in stock thickness can cause really odd results, and the sheets which I've produced in this way have no such problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Time? : Rendering a 12 foot 2 x 6 into 16 sheets each 3 foot by 6&quot; by 1/4&quot; takes me about an hour about equal time spent on the band saw and planner.  When I have someone to plane while I resaw, we can usually process 3 12 foot boards in about the same hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worth It? : Yes, but rather than buying a cheap tool, look into finding a used tool or better yet, an unused but previously owned tool.  I bought a 14&quot; planner for $150 at an auction once which was still in its original box and had no sawdust on it anywhere.  I took a video of it in its original condition, then ran one pencil-marked board through it to demonstrate that it was functional and that the blades were not chipped.  Posted it online and it sold for $350 (which was still 1/2 of retail) in less than a day.  If you can get some time on someone else's powertools (as I have through my makerspace) it is pretty easy to learn how to vet used tools to insure quality, safety and functionality.  ...and the savings can be substantial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="147" LastEditorUserId="147" LastEditDate="2019-10-17T18:29:54.337" LastActivityDate="2019-10-17T18:29:54.337" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9723" CreationDate="2019-10-18T00:50:39.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can model each dowel and the shelf itself as beams. The dowels would be like a &lt;strong&gt;uniformly distributed load cantilever&lt;/strong&gt;, while the shelf would be a &lt;strong&gt;simply supported beam&lt;/strong&gt;. You can look up the material properties for your material type and input the parameters of your shelf in the calculators below. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/timber-mechanical-properties-d_1789.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/timber-mechanical-properties-d_1789.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reasonable values would probably be yield strength of &lt;strong&gt;50 MPa&lt;/strong&gt; and an elastic modulus of &lt;strong&gt;10 GPa&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically &lt;strong&gt;deflection&lt;/strong&gt; or &quot;sag&quot; is the first area of concern for beams so I recommend solving for that first. I have attached a few calculators you can use for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/cantilever-beams-d_1848.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/cantilever-beams-d_1848.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanicalc.com/calculators/beam-analysis/#divResults&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://mechanicalc.com/calculators/beam-analysis/#divResults&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also find the &lt;strong&gt;maximum moment&lt;/strong&gt; and use the &lt;strong&gt;flexure (bending) stress&lt;/strong&gt; equation in the link below to solve for stress and see if it is above the yield stress for your material type.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanicalc.com/reference/beam-analysis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://mechanicalc.com/reference/beam-analysis&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2249" LastEditorUserId="2249" LastEditDate="2019-10-19T00:41:41.013" LastActivityDate="2019-10-19T00:41:41.013" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10040" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-18T16:32:03.277" Score="0" ViewCount="298" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got into rustic oak furniture making a few years ago and used a belt sander and detail sander outside on the pieces (about 20 days solid in total spread over 3 years, but covered in dust). I also sanded once in my bedroom, I know...daft, and there was a fair bit of dust on my bed and pillows. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thing is, I thought that wood dust may be at worst an irritant, I didn’t have any idea that it was carcinogenic. I’ve had one slightly blocked sinus for a little while which I will get checked out after finding out oak can cause nasal cancer...but it is probably (hopefully) just a lingering cold and paranoia!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your opinions, how at risk do you think I am of having caused myself some serious harm? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7896" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2019-10-18T22:16:44.403" LastActivityDate="2019-10-18T22:16:44.403" Title="Exposure to a lot of oak sanding dust when didn’t know the harm...advice please!" Tags="|wood|safety|sanding|sawdust|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10042" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10043" CreationDate="2019-10-20T22:46:10.507" Score="2" ViewCount="179" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having difficulties finding some scrap piece of leather in order to make myself a strop in order to aid the sharpening process for my plane blades and chisels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V0b2N.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V0b2N.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking to use this kind of (hopefully) genuine leather and I am not sure if it is a good idea. I mean the oxide-loaded strop:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Micyy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Micyy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it feasible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastEditorUserId="4942" LastEditDate="2019-10-21T13:56:51.477" LastActivityDate="2019-10-22T20:24:31.807" Title="Can I use glasses-cleaning leather to make a strop?" Tags="|hand-tools|sharpening|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10042" CreationDate="2019-10-21T14:02:59.293" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer the question at hand, no. This is not appropriate material for stropping tool edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's aggregate the answers that popped up in comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2085/how-can-i-tell-if-leather-is-vegetable-tanned/2087#2087&quot;&gt;this Answer&lt;/a&gt; for hints&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look around for a local leatherworker to acquire scraps of heavier hide suitable for turning into a strop&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check charity shops for an old &quot;full grain&quot; leather belt (i.e., not compressed or bonded leather)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-10-21T20:07:25.947" LastActivityDate="2019-10-21T20:07:25.947" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10024" CreationDate="2019-10-22T00:45:07.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A workbench is a very personal tool that should be customized for the intended user and the intended use. A bench that might work perfect for one person could be very difficult for someone else, or not work well at all. You need to consider your environment, such as shop space and other obstacles to decide on size and height. Since you indicated a variety of projects, such as metal working and large sheet goods, and you can walk all the way around your planned bench, a 48&quot; top may be appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also want to think about what the top is made of, if metalworking will be done, it may need to be impervious to oils (maybe a laminate layer or even metal on some or all of it). Next, think about a vice (or vices) that you might want and how they would attach to the top. Will there be an overhang on some or all of it? I have a large top on my bench and it has a 4&quot; - 6&quot; overhang so that I can use clamps and bench dogs easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't forget about the base, I have found that a heavy, sturdy base makes the whole bench work better and more durable. I put some big metal wheels below mine so that I could move it around although admittedly it doesn't get moved very often. A well built frame will also allow you to put drawers and doors that won't rack when you put stress on the bench. Another issue when thinking about the base is the height of the bench. I made one of my benches 30&quot; in height, primarily because it's easier to lift sheet goods to that height (rather than 36&quot;) and most of the activity (drawing dimensions, cutting with circular saw, cabinet assembly, etc.) on a slightly lower bench makes it easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, as you can see, a bench is a personal tool that works for you regardless of whether it works for somebody else. You should take all of the comments, recommendations and magazine articles as advice (including my comments) and use it to design and build the bench that works best for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, when designing the bench, do it with the thought of using it 5 years from now and thinking to yourself, &quot;I'm glad I built it this way&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7886" LastActivityDate="2019-10-22T00:45:07.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10045" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10052" CreationDate="2019-10-22T17:32:27.693" Score="0" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;A clumsy contractor put a paint can on a table of mine (no stain, varnish, 100% fresh wood) and a ring of paint got left behind on the table. What is the best way to remove the paint so that I can stain the table and have it look nice? I'm not even sure what kind of wood the table is made from. It's definitely not oak. It's a white-ish wood with very faint grains visible. Maybe maple?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of using paint stripper to get the paint off but I'm afraid that when I come back to stain, I'll see splotches. I'm hoping to avoid extreme sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7907" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-10-24T19:36:23.687" LastActivityDate="2019-10-25T14:12:56.517" Title="Removing Spilled Paint and Staining Table" Tags="|staining|paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10024" CreationDate="2019-10-22T18:07:42.563" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;How many things are you building that are more than 24&quot; deep?  Too deep of a workbench prevents you from reaching the back of whatever you are working on.  I can only think of a few things I have built ever that were deeper than 24&quot;, and almost everything else would have been a pain to build on a wider bench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mention supporting tools such as your arbor press.  My experience has been that while it seems like a good idea at first to put those things on your bench, it doesn't work all that well.  The work surface should be as open as possible, to allow for the most versatile use of the space.  If you need to mount tools to it temporarily, look into a system that uses hitch receivers to 'plug in' different vices and presses on an as needed basis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, depending upon the types of projects you are doing, you may want to consider totally different benches for metal work vs wood work.  I wouldn't want to work on a nice piece of hardwood furniture on the same bench I used for repairing a chainsaw and welding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2019-10-22T18:07:42.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10042" CreationDate="2019-10-22T20:24:31.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with the prior answer and comments and thought I would add another suggestion to try.  A very flat smooth piece of wood such as a finish grade plywood makes a great strop or base for a leather strop.&#xA;I have piece of plywood that I applied stropping compound to and it works great.  As a woodworker it easy to make a strop like this of any size or shape you like with or without a handle.  And you are pretty much guaranteed to have the material laying in your scrap bin right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5274" LastActivityDate="2019-10-22T20:24:31.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10048" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10051" CreationDate="2019-10-23T12:54:46.740" Score="5" ViewCount="1726" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently trying to work on a project that involves piercing a lot of large-diameter (~38mm) holes in rather thick (~5cm) bamboo board sheets. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For that, I am using a hole saw. However, I ran into the problem of the wood starting to burn and the bit getting stuck (due to the thermal expansion?). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I was drilling or routing metal, I would be cooling with a mix of oil and water at the ambient temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I use to perform similar cooling in the context of working on wood? Would water be sufficient? Should I just make frequent pauses and let the drill bit cool in the air?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7909" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-10-23T14:17:12.223" LastActivityDate="2019-10-24T18:49:04.327" Title="How to cool hole saw" Tags="|drilling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10048" CreationDate="2019-10-23T14:11:55.180" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your question: the DIY or home wood shop doesn't &lt;em&gt;generally&lt;/em&gt; use any sort of bit lubrication or cooling liquid. Maybe some applications would use some sort of wax or teflon coating on the bit, but I wouldn't bother.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use sharp appropriate bits for the material and adjust speed and feed accordingly. It sounds like you are using a hole saw, which has a few problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They don't clear chips well, clogging the hole and adding to the overall work load&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They often have a greater amount of finer teeth, with little kerf and not much gullet necessary for clearing chips&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The large rotating part that holds the teeth is almost always going to rub against the work no matter what you do, holding all that heat and causing burning&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hole saws are really only appropriate for specific applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The typical use is to go slow and straight -- try not to rotate the bit out of round around its axis or you will wallow out the hole and cause more friction. Nice even and straight pressure is best, with plenty of breaks to clear chips. A source of compressed air is handy in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you can get a few Forstner bits that are the right size. Get one with the centre a bit proud so you don't have to drill pilots holes. Again, adjust your speed and feed, and allow the chips to clear. Forstner bits have less trouble with clogging, so you might be able to just blow the chips away as you work with puffs of air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also a place where keeping square and true to the hole is important. Two much pressure to one side is where the friction and burning comes from. A drill press or guide is handy in this case. Though, I've had luck with careful hand placement and a centre spirit bubble attached to the base of the drill, in line with the tool bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-10-24T18:49:04.327" LastActivityDate="2019-10-24T18:49:04.327" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10048" CreationDate="2019-10-23T14:18:23.963" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem with hole saws is that there is no way to eject the waste.  If the waste sawdust is properly dealt with the saw will not heat up to the point of scorching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a normal twist bit the waste is pulled out by the grooves in the bit.  With no grooves the waste from a hole saw clogs the gullets and packs in around the sides of the bit, heating it up and increasing friction.  This is actually the cause of the binding you're feeling, not thermal expansion (or possibly alignment issues, see jdv's answer for more info).  There's usually plenty of &quot;set&quot; on a holesaw (i.e. the teeth project well outside the thickness of the tube) to prevent binding on the work piece itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way around this is to keep a compressed air blow gun handy and stop, pull the bit out, and blow the hole out every so often (every 1/8&quot; of depth or so).  At the same time you should also pick or blow off any sawdust packed in the gullets of the saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also drill holes in the waste that overlap with the kerf the saw is cutting to give the waste somewhere to go.  Just be careful not to let them wander into the &quot;keeper&quot; side of the cut.  This is easier with brad point or forstner bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2019-10-24T18:39:37.190" LastActivityDate="2019-10-24T18:39:37.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10048" CreationDate="2019-10-24T15:37:32.090" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This was mentioned in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/10050/283&quot;&gt;SaSSafraS1232's answer&lt;/a&gt;, but it works so well that I think it deserves an answer all on its own. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're using a hole saw and planning on cutting all the way through the work piece, then I strongly suggest you start by drilling one or more relief holes for sawdust before you use the hole saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drill the relief hole on the kerf of the planned cut with the hole saw, such that the relief hole is mostly on the waste side of the hole that will be cut with the hole saw, but still overlaps the kerf of the hole saw. Here's a picture to help illustrate the technique:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WhibY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WhibY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sawdust relief hole on hole saw kerf&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image Credit: Family Handyman (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.familyhandyman.com/tools/saws/choose-the-right-hole-saw-for-your-project/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;original article&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with heat and burning is that sawdust builds up and has nowhere to go. One way to fix this is to slow down and clean out the kerf often. Another way to fix it is to drill holes as above. It gives the sawdust somewhere to go as you cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll still have to go slow. Check the relief holes periodically to see if they've gotten clogged. If they do, the heat will start building up and you'll get smoking and burning again. But with the relief holes, you can drill with the hole saw longer before you need to stop and check things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference in quality of the resulting hole saw cut with a relief hole vs. without is just huge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2019-10-24T15:37:32.090" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10045" CreationDate="2019-10-24T19:40:51.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If this is raw wood then some of that water-based finish remover should be just fine. You can dab it on just where you see paint, cover with plastic wrap to keep it wet, and let it sit as per the product instructions. I'd use painter's tape to seal the edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as it is wet, it is active. So you can scrape it off carefully with a scraper and maybe fine wet sandpaper. You can even try steel wool, though some people recommend against this. Maybe stainless steel wool is better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the paint is removed you want to carefully clean the the area down with clean wet rags to remove any residual stripper and let the wood dry completely. If done carefully I suspect you will only have to do a light sanding prep to get ready for finishing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the stain soaked in deeper, you can try stripping it again. In fact, sometimes I get better results reapplying the stripper on damp wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-10-25T14:12:56.517" LastActivityDate="2019-10-25T14:12:56.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10053" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-24T20:33:57.037" Score="1" ViewCount="532" Body="&lt;p&gt;The slanted 72 inch boards are not screwed into anything, but I would like to add them to keep the bench strong side to side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to screw into the back bottom joint as it already has 4 screws in it and any more I feel would cause cracking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I move the 72 in a bit and just get extra long screws to screw though it at an angle and then into the bottom board? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How might I do this without screwing into the same areas too much? &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zw3sY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zw3sY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GoZdG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GoZdG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EnN1r.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EnN1r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lvkQC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lvkQC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7911" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-10-27T07:32:27.433" LastActivityDate="2019-10-27T07:32:27.433" Title="How to keep frat bench from racking (photos)" Tags="|wood-repair|racking|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10054" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-10-24T20:56:50.047" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2019-10-24T20:56:50.047" LastActivityDate="2019-10-24T20:56:50.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10055" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-10-24T20:56:50.047" Score="0" Body="How to address instabilities due to the top of a piece of furniture moving laterally relative to the bottom.  " OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2019-10-24T20:56:50.047" LastActivityDate="2019-10-24T20:56:50.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10057" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-25T09:48:49.177" Score="1" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having some millwork done and the carpenters are reluctant to put knife edges on the bevels because they feel it would be fragile and the edges could get easily chipped in handling. They generally want to chamfer off any sharp 45-degree edges to an 1/8 or a 1/16th. The diagram below shows the basic situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aj2Vg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aj2Vg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to handle such edges, or do they really need to be chamfered off to a 1/16th?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2019-11-08T20:45:23.657" Title="How to handle sharp edges on bevels" Tags="|bevels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10057" CreationDate="2019-10-25T14:30:18.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To paraphrase pretty much &lt;em&gt;every&lt;/em&gt; wood- and metal-worker on YouTube:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Always&lt;/strong&gt; chamfer your machined edges!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not in the least surprised that people familiar with machining material have advised chamfered edges. It just looks, feels, and ages better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-11-08T20:45:23.657" LastActivityDate="2019-11-08T20:45:23.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9634" CreationDate="2019-10-25T15:44:17.200" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I spoke directly with the Flameseal manufacturer rep and was told that they won't warranty their product if any stain is applied over their treatment. In my case, I would not be able to get this by a building inspector for the application intended, so have looked to other alternatives, and coming up empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7916" LastActivityDate="2019-10-25T15:44:17.200" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10060" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10064" CreationDate="2019-10-26T16:14:21.903" Score="3" ViewCount="567" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to plane the end grain of some relatively cheap and soft (pine) timber (2x6s) with a no.4 Stanley Bailey hand plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've sharpened my plane to a degree which I think should be more than satisfactory (up to 6000grit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I am getting a lot of tear out when the plane gets to the edge. I know there are few tricks you can do to stop this from happening (such as clamping a dummy block to the end) but my real question is - do better grades of wood, especially hard woods, fare better or worse in this regard? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7922" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-10-27T08:39:40.530" LastActivityDate="2019-10-30T08:23:49.860" Title="Planing end grain - cheap vs more expensive wood" Tags="|hand-planing|hardwood|softwood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10061" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10063" CreationDate="2019-10-26T17:09:24.007" Score="5" ViewCount="1174" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see some models of random-orbit sanders have a variable speed control. Under what circumstances would I need variable speed while sanding? It's not clear to me what benefit it offers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5810" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-10-27T07:37:33.650" LastActivityDate="2019-10-27T07:56:23.483" Title="How can variable speed be used on a random-orbit sander?" Tags="|sanding|power-tools|random-orbit-sander|ros|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10061" CreationDate="2019-10-27T02:01:52.653" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The faster it spins, the more material it will remove. When sanding solid wood, I go full speed. But, if I am sanding a coat of poly or a plywood veneer, I go at it with a much slower speed as to not chew through the top layer of material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3759" LastActivityDate="2019-10-27T02:01:52.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10061" CreationDate="2019-10-27T07:56:23.483" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you want to sand more aggressively, you use a faster speed. When you want to sand more gently (to take greater care not to sand through veneer or finish for example) you would drop to a lower speed&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to note, final sanding of wooden surfaces should normally be done by hand to help reduce the chance of 'pigtails' or sanding swirls&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; and to ensure the best finishing result. This is commonly done using the same grit as the final ROS sanding (e.g. 180-240) with the abrasive backed by a sanding block and following the grain. Alternatively you could do a final scraping, but if you're scraping you might skip the ROS entirely!&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Coarser paper and finer paper would normally be used in each case as well of course, but using the same grit there's quite a difference in aggressiveness between a high speed and a lower speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; The random orbit and good technique (do not press hard, move the sander &lt;em&gt;slowly&lt;/em&gt;) already reduce this tendency significantly over normal rotary sanders, but it's still quite easy to leave occasional swirls or some indication of cross-grain sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; See &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1134/what-are-the-differences-between-sanding-and-scraping/1159#1159&quot;&gt;previous Answer&lt;/a&gt; for why scraping is better than sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-10-27T07:56:23.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10060" CreationDate="2019-10-27T08:41:57.670" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Planing end grain is not an easy task and getting a nice result should be taken as a good indicator of sharpness, &lt;em&gt;especially in softwoods&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's impossible for most beginners and very difficult for a lot of learner woodworkers to get good results planing end grain at every attempt. And it seems paradoxical but the end grain of hardwoods is generally much easier to plane than that of softwoods, which is one of the reasons that working with softwoods is actually quite challenging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've sharpened my plane to a degree which I think should be more than satisfactory (up to 6000grit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final grit isn't an indication of sharpness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finer grits do tend to produce a more refined, ultimately sharper, edge but it's quite possible to hone on a fine waterstone or ceramic stone and for the tool to still be blunt. This can be due to poor technique, or the incomplete removal of the previous wear bevel (something that is surprisingly common).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it's possible to produce a superb edge on a stone much less fine than this — this was actually still the norm only a generation or so ago, when very fine stones were still not commonplace in Western workshops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it helps you might like a quick read of these previous Q&amp;amp;As:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3374/&quot;&gt;How can I tell if wood turning (lathe) chisels are sharp?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/6097/&quot;&gt;Is the &amp;quot;paper test&amp;quot; actually relevant to sharpening chisels and planes?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;However I am getting a lot of tear out when the plane gets to the edge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is perfectly normal. As you say there are some tricks to prevent this, as covered in an early Question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/741/how-do-you-plane-end-grain&quot;&gt;How do you plane end grain?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;but my real question is - do better grades of wood, especially hard woods, fare better or worse in this regard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Splitting out of long grain, also called &lt;em&gt;spelching&lt;/em&gt;, during planing (and sanding) of adjacent end grain is common to all woods and some hardwoods are actually worse for it than softwoods because they're very stringy, or brittle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-10-30T08:23:49.860" LastActivityDate="2019-10-30T08:23:49.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10065" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-27T23:22:32.310" Score="0" ViewCount="220" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought beautiful hollow core paint grade birch skin interior doors. I do not want to paint or add a gloss/sheen to them. I want to maintain the colour, texture and authenticity of the wood as much as possible but I need to protect them from future wear and tear. What are my options for sealing them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7926" LastActivityDate="2019-10-30T18:20:57.337" Title="Birch interior door sealer?" Tags="|physical-protection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10065" CreationDate="2019-10-28T08:13:41.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use pretty much any finish on a door, depending on the look you desire and what you want to work with. Doors don't really need a highly protective finish unless there are young kids in the house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I do not want to paint &lt;strong&gt;or add a gloss/sheen&lt;/strong&gt; to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the part in bold is the key thing here, since you don't want to add gloss this rules out many options immediately since the majority of finishes increase shine. Although you can matt down any gloss finish you probably don't want to mess around with that on a project of this size and for consistency and ease of use you should just go with a matt finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil-based varnishes, polyurethanes in particular, generally give superior protection and they do most to highlight the natural grain structure or figure in the wood of all finish types, but they add a significant amount of yellow/amber colouring to pale woods. This will also increase over time as all oil finishes 'yellow' (go more amber to be more precise).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Waterbased finishes dry &quot;water white&quot; (do note they are milky in the container however) and will change the look of wood minimally. The matt versions in particular are rather famous for virtually leaving wood looking unchanged since there's little or no change in surface gloss. If you're in the US something from General Finishes would be a good choice that is likely to be available locally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; it's important to bear in mind however that the wood itself will change colour slightly over time and that you can't prevent this*. Birch, maple and other pale or whitish woods all shift colour slightly towards tan. The change is slow and subtle so you won't really see it happening, but eventually you'll notice that your doors which were once quite pale are now more beige.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Some finishes have UV inhibitors built in but they aren't UV-stable so the protection is never permanent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2019-10-30T18:20:57.337" LastActivityDate="2019-10-30T18:20:57.337" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10067" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-28T21:16:08.853" Score="0" ViewCount="1100" Body="&lt;p&gt;hoping someone can help! I'm new to woodworking and I thought I'd start out by restoring an old Ducal desk. It was previously varnished and seems to be made out of pine possibly. I sanded it all down and thought I had taken all the old finish off, but when I started putting on stain, I noticed a lot of patchiness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The colour looks alright when viewed from the top and it all looks good when the stain is freshly put on but as it dries, and from the side with the light, you can see lots patchiness on the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to rectify?? Will I have to re-sand it all and start again? I've used Dulux Dark Walnut oil-based stain if that's helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BBOWH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BBOWH.png&quot; alt=&quot;desk viewed from top&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vjTLR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vjTLR.png&quot; alt=&quot;desk viewed from top&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7933" LastActivityDate="2019-10-29T08:10:29.457" Title="Staining an old desk - patchy finish" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10067" CreationDate="2019-10-29T08:10:29.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The colour looks alright when viewed from the top and it all looks good when the stain is freshly put on but as it dries, and from the side with the light, you can see lots patchiness on the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're actually describing two different things here and the second isn't necessarily related to an incomplete removal of the previous finish (and in this case doesn't appear to be). From the title I expected to see bad pale areas where the stain barely took, a very common issue when staining furniture that was previously finished as it is hard to remove every trace of the old finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The irregular surface gloss seen in the photos is merely due to variable absorbency of the wood. &lt;em&gt;Plus, there actually isn't any finish on this yet.&lt;/em&gt; Oil-based stain is a colouring product, not a finish, and any gloss achieved so far is merely an incidental byproduct of the oil binder used in stains of this type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Evening up surface gloss is one of the roles of final finish AKA topcoat, which is what you need to use next after giving the stain sufficient time to dry. All stains need to be covered by some sort of clear finish to protect against wear, minor scratches or dings revealing bare wood. The product literature should cover this, and likely also gives recommendations on what you might use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For future reference, in case you want to do more stuff like this, sanding is the worst way to remove old finish as touched on in numerous previous Answers here. Stripping using a chemical stripper (many of which are now quite safe compared to some older types) should be the preferred method, with sanding a distant third.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-10-29T08:10:29.457" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10060" CreationDate="2019-10-29T14:12:57.193" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might have better results if you use a low-angle block plane, such as a Stanley G12-060. I think all of the previous comments are also relevant, as a sharp blade is going to make a big difference. It also helps to skew the plane as much as possible and try for more of a slice (rather than a straight-on cut). Even with all of these suggestions, end grain is the most challenging cut and a very slow process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7886" LastActivityDate="2019-10-29T14:12:57.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10070" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10087" CreationDate="2019-10-30T00:24:17.457" Score="0" ViewCount="748" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KW5vi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have built a steambox as shown above, out of plywood. I'm trying to bend some &lt;em&gt;Pinus elliotii&lt;/em&gt; (slash pine) as a test with it, but it has not been effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have left it on for thirty minutes with the steamer on, than I need to refill it, and than I leave it for another thirty minutes. The wood has not been soaked before. I'm guessing this interval of a couple of minutes (the steamer needs to reheat) could be enough for a temperature drop, or not? It seems to me refilling the water is an issue with most forms of steam generation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, my box has two 1/4&quot; holes on the bottom and one on the top for pressure release, but probably the most leaky part of the box is the lid. Should I seal any or all of these?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5226" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-10-30T08:09:19.820" LastActivityDate="2019-11-11T22:17:55.170" Title="How to build an effective steam box?" Tags="|steam-bending|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10071" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-30T17:00:14.400" Score="2" ViewCount="333" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a small elm (?) burl that I'm hoping has something nice in it. I'm not sure how to prep it for drying. In my experience milling elm, the sapwood shrinks significantly more than the heartwood while air drying and checks all over the place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trim the branches?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strip the bark?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If so, seal the side grain?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seal the end grain?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Physically stabilize it with band clamps or something?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main volume is roughly a 14&quot; cube. It was recently cut down, and also it's been rainy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Hnwk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Hnwk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Elm seems to be a bit of a crapshoot but I've got my fingers crossed. Not sure what I want to use it for yet so I'd like to keep it whole for now. Might fill voids with resin after it's dry if it looks promising.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastEditorUserId="1250" LastEditDate="2019-10-31T00:35:32.927" LastActivityDate="2021-05-20T21:57:19.067" Title="Stabilizing and drying a burl" Tags="|wood-drying|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9977" CreationDate="2019-10-31T19:23:58.357" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;White spirits/mineral spirits should work, but turpentine is maybe better. I understand that WD-40 will work as well, but I have no first-hand experience using it for removing linseed oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might use a scrubber pad to make the process a bit quicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastActivityDate="2019-10-31T19:23:58.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10076" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-05T01:57:29.173" Score="3" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had been under the impression that wood was always going to fade in sunlight. I've seen plenty of examples of this from regular SPF framing lumber to unfinished siding going gray. Even freshly split firewood will lose color seemingly within minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I just came across a counterexample - in this screenshot the darker / more purple wood is &lt;strong&gt;older&lt;/strong&gt;, the lighter sections are freshly carved:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jkimR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jkimR.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/ES80TIAjJog?t=1232&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/ES80TIAjJog?t=1232&lt;/a&gt; - boatbuilder Leo Goolden)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That particular wood was described I think as purpleheart. Not only are the older sections darker but to my eye they also appear to have more intense color. Quite unexpected!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this just a rare anomaly / exception or maybe is my impression just tainted by the narrow range of domestic wood I've been exposed to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More technically, is there some specific category of tree species that describes the lightening vs. darkening phenomenon? Or another standard way of categorizing this effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="763" LastActivityDate="2019-11-07T19:09:28.240" Title="Does wood generally lose color / go gray in sunlight?" Tags="|wood|wood-species|coloring|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10076" CreationDate="2019-11-05T19:09:49.277" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few ways that wood ages when exposed to the elements and light. How the wood looks as it ages is dependent on a number of factors: type of elements, amount and type of light, where the wood is harvested from (i.e., closer to the bark or heartwood), how it is finished, etc. All of these and more will affect the look of the material over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, of course, the type of wood species can be a large factor. Obviously, since not all woods look and behave the same when growing, cut, and machined, similarly not all wood looks the same as it ages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most cases, the sort of aging that affects colour is oxidization, and in many cases the typical result is lightening or greying. But some species have a chemical composition that result in more obvious colour changes as it reacts with the environment. In general, UV light accelerates oxidation by interacting with the chemical bonds that hold molecules together. UV light also interacts with aromatics in material. As the material breaks down and reacts with oxygen (and the oxides further interact and degrade) the bonds between the molecules that absorb and reflect spectra break and reform into different molecules. The light that reflects from these new molecules results in what humans perceive as colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some varieties of cedars turn almost silver over time. Poplar or American whitewood turns greenish. As you point out, purpleheart ages to a spectacular purple. (As an aside, the colour blue in nature is very interesting -- often what we perceive as blue isn't a result of pigments, but white light interacting with the physical world such that we are seeing a partial spectrum of light. Moreover, blue pigments tend to be a bit unstable and fade quickly.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you point out, in general most wood just loses colour. But if you look carefully, even mundane wood from different species and different parts of the plant is different enough. A stand of dead pines look totally different than a stand of flooded oaks or elms. And standing timber, once made into lumber or shakes, age in their own unique way even though we'd probably describe the colour as &quot;grey&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-11-07T19:09:28.240" LastActivityDate="2019-11-07T19:09:28.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10078" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-07T00:40:13.010" Score="1" ViewCount="174" Body="&lt;p&gt;I could use some insight, please.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Craftsman 220 table saw. Trying to find a 12in blade with a 5/8s hole is an arduous task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use my 10 in blades with this saw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7956" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-11-21T21:08:57.710" LastActivityDate="2019-11-21T21:08:57.710" Title="10 inch blade instead of 12 in" Tags="|table-saw|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10079" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-07T22:18:16.357" Score="0" ViewCount="268" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning on building a block that is about 16&quot; square to mount an exterior light. The block is rimmed with a 4&quot; casing (sometimes called a &quot;molding&quot;). The casing is 3-7/8&quot; wide and 1&quot; high at the outside edge. So, the casing will form sort of a picture-frame-like rim around the block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is fitting it together so that no fittings are visible and the miter joints do not open up later. I want to minimize exposed screws or nails that would have to be covered up somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In old books I have seen that when similar types of joints are made they recommend both using a tenon of some type to register the miter and also a screw to tighten the miter. The problem with using screws is that it would leave holes in the outer rim of lamp block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that with picture frames they staple the miter on the back, but that seems too flimsy for this use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another idea might be to use flat brackets as shown below, but the problem with that is that it will stick out from the back of the casing, so some kind of recess would have to be milled, so that the casing can sit flush on the base block. Also, a bracket like this will just hold the joint, not tighten it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qb2JDm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qb2JDm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2019-11-08T20:19:40.670" Title="How to tighten up a miter joint in a casing" Tags="|miter-joint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10079" CreationDate="2019-11-08T20:13:03.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll admit I'm having a hard time visualizing exactly what you want to do, but it sounds like you have plenty of room for at least two types of joinery. The problem here is that mitre joints aren't very strong compared with other types of joints. So some sort of reinforcement is usually recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can think of two techniques you probably have room for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A small biscuit joint, which will be hidden.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A spline can look really nice with contrasting wood, or can match and be nearly invisible. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you can opt for a lap-joint instead, which is a lot easier to make and glue up square, and is &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; stronger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking that trying to hide some metal hardware in a relief is going to be way more trouble that it is worth. Unless, of course, you were already planning on routing out a channel in the back of the moulding anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-11-08T20:19:40.670" LastActivityDate="2019-11-08T20:19:40.670" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10081" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10091" CreationDate="2019-11-09T14:35:56.267" Score="4" ViewCount="929" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some 600x1200mm (24&quot;x47&quot;) hardwood (iroko) boards at just over 27mm (&gt;1&quot;) thick that used to be old work tops from a school.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to clean them and use them for a kitchen worktop as it's beautiful and robust wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue is that they currently have bowing and cupping and I don't have a thicknesser and certainly could not afford one that would have the capacity to handle such a wide piece of hardwood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The options, as far as I can tell, to me are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;attempt to plane and thickness the entire board by hand using hand planes. &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Downsides here are that it'd take forever and I am not that confident in my skills to be able to do this to a high standard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pony up and pay a professional company to plane and thickness the entire board&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;downside here would be cost and potentially losing a lot of material.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dejoint the board using a circular saw &amp;amp; guide so they are narrower, then plane and thickness those narrow boards - either by hand or with a more easily available thicknesses, rejoint those boards together.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My fear with this approach is that I won't be able to get the joints spot on and they'll be a very obvious gap along its length. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will lose some material off the edges.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pros are that I lose less material off the top face.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other options open to me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7922" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-11-10T08:11:41.920" LastActivityDate="2019-11-12T17:27:52.480" Title="Thicknessing and planing wide hardwood boards" Tags="|hand-planing|thickness-planer|bowing|planer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10083" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-10T21:32:55.210" Score="1" ViewCount="145" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question is about specific producs or lines by brands.&#xA;This is meant for hobbyist use - but if there just isn't anything in a roughly &quot;hobbyist price range&quot;, then so be it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I attempt to make this not &quot;primarily opinion based&quot; by defining what I find &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; acceptable accuracy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am speaking of try squares with a metric ruler, and a handle with greater thickness than the ruler, so you can hold it against a piece of wood's side while the ruler is going over the side, to have the ruler at a perfect right angle to the work piece's edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any of such instruments I ever bought at Germany's ~ equivalents of a &quot;Home Depot&quot; is basically an unusable toy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Say it's ruler is 25cm long.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The supposed right angle is off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;so that at its end, it will be several millimeters off on the perpendicular axis, and at its half maybe ~ 2 mm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The ruler is not perfectly positioned at the start at the handle, all the measurements will be ~ 1/2mm off (plus offset due to the bad right angle)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And it's slightly different on the flip side - ruler markings on both sides are not perfectly aligned.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there products which are significantly better than that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7921" LastActivityDate="2019-11-10T21:32:55.210" Title="Which try-squares have acceptable accuracy?" Tags="|measurement|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="11" ClosedDate="2019-11-20T18:55:32.540" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10084" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10086" CreationDate="2019-11-10T22:14:51.450" Score="1" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;This glassy, opaque item was deep inside a eucalyptus blank. There was no indication from the outside of the wood that there was anything inside, so it must have been grown over while the tree was alive.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YtPXp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YtPXp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;closeup&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears to be connected to / part of a small branch that was trapped inside; does anyone have any idea what it might be? It didn't chip like glass, and was only slightly harder than the surrounding wood.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ri1QN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ri1QN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;wider shot before removing the material&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="292" LastActivityDate="2019-11-12T08:11:26.067" Title="What's this substance that was found fully-enclosed in a eucalyptus blank?" Tags="|turning|woodturning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10084" CreationDate="2019-11-11T08:16:50.973" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like sap/resin that trees produce when they are damaged (e.g. by grown-in branches). It indeed hardens over time and can be trapped within the growing tree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="700" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2019-11-12T08:11:26.067" LastActivityDate="2019-11-12T08:11:26.067" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10070" CreationDate="2019-11-11T19:25:21.560" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built a much smaller plywood steam box a while back using that same Karcher unit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used it to bend oak, ash, pine and small branches, mostly very well, after steaming them for about 20 minutes each. (See oak test below). I was using 5-6mm strips about 400mm long. I'm guessing you're working with thicker stock? In this case you'll probably need to leave it for more than half an hour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few pointers for how you might get better results and reduce steaming time:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The internal volume is too large for that small steamer. (see picture for mine). Try steaming pieces in smaller batches, in a container that fits snugly around the pieces. Use small wedges along the strip to elevate the strips from the bottom, and get steam flowing around all its surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned by the comment above, the steam port is in the middle. Try running the steam parallel to the wood strips, by putting the port at one of those ends. I reckon the end grain exposed at either end is the most porous surface, and it should give you better flow too. I loosely sealed the other side to vent the flowing steam.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Also mentioned by a comment above, softwoods don't steam-bend very well. I found pine consistently failed alongside hardwoods like ash and oak. It tended to stay rigid, or break when bent sharply. Oak and ash are ideal woods. You want pieces with as straight a grain as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to bend the material immediately after removing it from the steam box. It very quickly loses the ability to bend as it cools and dries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never tried bending thicker stock, but you may have to laminate thinner pieces if you still can't get the results you're after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IA1nl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IA1nl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Oak test&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cS5su.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cS5su.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Steam box&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7969" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-11-11T22:17:55.170" LastActivityDate="2019-11-11T22:17:55.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10088" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-12T08:31:01.100" Score="0" ViewCount="2295" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry if the title isn't very good - feel free to edit,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking for advice on stain / sealant / oil,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically our supplier of our children's outdoor wooden play furniture for pre-school has messed up big time and stained everything with 'indoor' stain even after months of discussion about outdoor usage. We are talking 2 full containers of acacia furniture here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Luckily we asked him to put a piece outdoors for testing and after just a few weeks the top was already worn down massively.. like worse than our wooden patio table that sits outside permanently all year in UK and gets restained once every 2 years. And even before restaining doesn't look as bad as our test!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see in the photo the back panel is not so bad. I'm aware this is 'work' so many people on StackExchange are reluctant to answer such queries unless they have some sort of interesting, technical value, so I will try and add as much info as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the supplier says he can sand down and stain with outdoor stain the top panel for all our products which will take 2 weeks (or for the first container I think), or 2 months to sand and stain all panels on all units. This question is really about stain and sealant. I was looking at this page: &lt;a href=&quot;https://noblerate.com/best-deck-sealer-stain/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://noblerate.com/best-deck-sealer-stain/&lt;/a&gt; about deck sealer and noticed there are some sealers and oils that can be used to protect the stain and the wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One solution I thought was to let the manufacturer sand down top panels and use the new outdoor stain, but only use oil or sealer on the sides / back panels, as you can see the back panel is not worn quite as bad (though it is still weathered..)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just looking for some expert advice from people that know a lot more about this stuff than I do. The questions being: Would using a sealant / oil over the side panels (indoor stain!) would last for long e.g. 2-3 years .. or whether it would just simply not work! (The manufacturer thinks the indoor stain will just peel off either way.. though I thought that maybe an oil that could 'soak in' might help?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose a summarising question about my problem in general would be - &quot;pretty please help - what should I do!&quot; Once again I apologise the question is business-related, so please feel free to close the question if you don't think it is beneficial to the forum or goes against the rules. In general, just having problem with the outdoor stain - attempting to model Ikea's outdoor stain for use with acacia .. but struggling a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yv7D0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yv7D0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Top panel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3RC2b.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3RC2b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Back panel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7892" LastActivityDate="2019-11-12T15:29:00.030" Title="Turning indoor stain furniture into outdoor stain using sealer / oil or sanding and restaining" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10088" CreationDate="2019-11-12T15:29:00.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What should you do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Treat these pieces as weathered pieces in need of refinishing. It doesn't matter that it has been 2 months instead of 2 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sand or scrape down the old finish and apply a new appropriate finish as recommended by the manufacturer of the finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Skipping the sides and just redoing the tops and other weathered parts is probably fine -- I do this on my own acacia outside furniture -- but you will see a difference in colour and texture as the finishes age at different rates. But in my experience the tops of acacia furniture age drastically no matter what you do, and this colour difference will happen regardless of your refinishing schedule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2019-11-12T15:29:00.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="280" CreationDate="2019-11-12T16:07:06.360" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I friend of mine recently had a similar issue with his log cabin (which I offered to help - why do I get myself into these things!). He wanted to clean the entire house outside AND inside - yikes. After quite a bit of research he opted for a solution sort of like what was mentioned above, but he went with something new called WET ice blasting. Environmentally friendly because it only uses ice cubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference (as far as Mike believes) is there is less wear &amp;amp; tear on the wood, no dry ice cost and only uses normal ice cubes. Pretty cool. It took us just a weekend to finish the cabin. Quite the wet experience for sure. Not sure if the dry ice method would have done a better job, but Mike and Andrea were happy with the end state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My two cents anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Andy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Moderator Note:&lt;/strong&gt; Reader Warning : The process identified in this answer makes a direct link to a single manufacturer's product.  The equipment appears to be proprietary in a process similar to sandblasting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't get it?? Link removed - I don't understand why there is a warning??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7971" LastEditorUserId="7971" LastEditDate="2019-11-23T14:03:02.060" LastActivityDate="2019-11-23T14:03:02.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10081" CreationDate="2019-11-12T17:27:52.480" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are there any other options open to me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one other option that you didn't mention.  You can build a &quot;router sled&quot; to flatten wide boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is basically two rails on either side of the board with a narrow platform that slides along them.  A router rides on the platform, and the platform has a slot cut through it that the bit projects through to contact the work piece.  The router is then passed over the entire surface of the board, flattening it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start by putting your work piece on a large surface or floor.  Stabilize it with shims or wedges so that it doesn't rock or flex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you'll need two flat, stable rails at least a foot longer than your work piece.  These have to be thick enough to support the weight of the sled with minimal flexing.  Steel beams or square tubing work well if you don't have a good way of jointing long material.  Place them on the floor to either side of the work piece with the jointed edges facing up.  Block or shim them up so that they're above the surface of the work piece, then make sure there is no twist in them by running two taut strings from corner to corner.  The strings should just touch in the middle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then make a platform for the router to run on.  This should have rails running along the top to give it enough strength to not sag when the router is in the center.  These rails can also serve to keep the router &quot;captive&quot; so it only moves from side to side.  Plunge the router through the bottom to cut the slot for the bit to project through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't actually recommend this option for you, though.  Since these are already glued-up panels and not slabs I'd personally rip the panels apart and re-glue them.  This will save the most material in the long run, and only requires a table saw and some clamps.  The narrower boards can be jointed by hand or on much more common equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2019-11-12T17:27:52.480" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10092" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10093" CreationDate="2019-11-13T03:45:44.370" Score="1" ViewCount="1121" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a red oak board and I want to darken it pretty substantially to be more walnut color.  I put on some Black Walnut Danish oil and it’s still too light and slightly red (I don’t expect the red to go away).  I tried putting stain down on top of the Danish oil but it didn’t penetrate at all.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I darken this board? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2925" LastActivityDate="2019-11-13T08:34:22.483" Title="Darken Danish Oil" Tags="|finishing|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10092" CreationDate="2019-11-13T08:34:22.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ideal way to do this is to would be to hop into a time machine so you can begin again, and start by doing some colour testing on an offcut or a non-visible part of the board you're working on until you're happy with the result ;-) &lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since that's not an option here are some alternatives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally the ideal is to colour wood directly, which would involve taking the board back to bare wood as stains won't take properly to wood that has finish on it as you've already discovered. This is a fair amount of work of course, and you lose some material, but despite this I'd normally be recommending it except for the fact that you're working with red oak. Red oak has large open pores and may have absorbed the Black Walnut Danish Oil very deeply, especially from the end-grain surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So from where you are now I think your best option could be &quot;gel stain&quot;, which despite what it's called is not stain but coloured varnish in gel form. I'm not really a fan of these personally, in part because of the stupid name, but they do what they're supposed to and are easy to work with — wipe on, wipe off. This can go directly on the wood after giving the oil sufficient time to dry, a couple/few days should do it&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. You would need to protect this with a subsequent coat or two of varnish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think these are as viable but I'll mention in passing that spray lacquer and darker shades of shellac could also be used here. All three options will subdue the grain of the wood because it's being coated in a colour layer rather than the wood itself absorbing colour. This may or may not be desirable, but there's no alternative when you aren't working with bare wood that can be stained conventionally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Seriously though, do finish tests. Especially when working with new finishing products (not only products you haven't used before, but those just bought as well since finishes have been known to vary batch to batch and occasionally the formulations are changed intentionally).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; It may actually work fine after just a brief wait, but it's safer to be cautious and give the DO time to cure a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-11-13T08:34:22.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10094" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10097" CreationDate="2019-11-13T10:03:16.513" Score="0" ViewCount="654" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know how to make my own drumsticks with a Swiss Army knife. I would like to know which wood to use, how long they should be, how to whittle the tips correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My goal is to make a pair of rock drumsticks: they should be hard, heavy and very robust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be very nice if you guys could explain it to me, or even send me some links of tutorials you would recommend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7974" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-11-21T16:28:08.280" LastActivityDate="2021-07-05T02:17:29.160" Title="How to whittle drumsticks with a swiss army knife?" Tags="|wood|carving|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10094" CreationDate="2019-11-13T16:22:06.803" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is that drumsticks are not &lt;em&gt;carved&lt;/em&gt;, but rather are &lt;em&gt;turned&lt;/em&gt;. I can't imagine you'll get the feel you want from carving, especially with a single ordinary blade that was never designed for carving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's not to say you can carve with a plain pocket knife, but rather that the skill required to do so takes a long time to learn, and may only be appropriate for whittling-style chipping and paring. Not the smooth and balanced finish that musical instruments require.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do want to do this, you'll probably first have to select the appropriate hardwood. Some research will have to be done to know the qualities you want so by the time you get them down to size they don't just fly apart or whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then a further guess is that you will need a few more carving tools than a single pocket knife. A drawknife springs to mind, along with a shaving horse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And probably a profile guide of some sort, because getting the complicated profile of a stick carved in even a marginally balanced manner is going to be really &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; challenging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That all being said, my suggesting is to do some internet research, because I am almost certain that drumsticks are made by turning on a special lathe, not carved in a linear fashion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-11-21T15:16:25.223" LastActivityDate="2019-11-21T15:16:25.223" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10096" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-13T19:50:23.850" Score="4" ViewCount="610" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making my own wiping varnish by following Bob Flexner's recommendation of mixing polyurethane varnish (in my case, Minwax semigloss) with odorless mineral spirits.   Everything seems to be going well, except that the finish gets tacky incredibly quickly, and I am not getting an even sheen on the final coat.  I had hoped the superior self-leveling process might get an even sheen, but it's not happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some data:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I started with 3 parts varnish to 1 part mineral spirits, as recommended.  I tried adding a little more mineral spirits, maybe 1 part to 4 of the original mix, but I didn't really see a change.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I'm wiping onto a table top that's 18 inches by 4 feet, or about 45 cm by 120cm.  By the time I cover the whole table top, the initial application is already tacky and won't smooth out nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I'm using a soft cotton cloth cut from a T-shirt.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The temperature in my shop is 60 to 63 degrees F (15 to 17 C).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I'm up to about 6 coats (maybe 7, have lost track).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Between coats I'm sanding &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; lightly by hand with #320 sandpaper.  No flat backing on the sandpaper, just fingers.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wood feels super smooth, but it doesn't look great.  To be honest, I think I was getting better results using a water-based varnish, but this project is cherry and that doesn't look good with water-based varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I get a nice, even sheen on the final coat?  Do I need to thin it more?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1268" LastActivityDate="2019-11-14T10:44:05.873" Title="How to get an even sheen with wiping varnish?" Tags="|finishing|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10094" CreationDate="2019-11-13T20:50:25.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;(Answering as both a drummer and wood worker)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going along with the previous answer, hickory is a common wood for drum sticks.  It is nice and strong (also commonly used for baseball bats, axe handles, etc) and can be found at most specialty lumber dealers.  You can try with other types too...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do agree that shaping them with a knife will be very difficult.  Try to find wood with straight grain across the entire length of the shaft to prevent breakage when you are playing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7515" LastActivityDate="2019-11-13T20:50:25.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10098" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-13T22:37:19.067" Score="6" ViewCount="673" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a mini router table.&#xA;The base material is a type of birch plywood with 15 layers or so, 21mm thick.&#xA;Well if the dictionary serves me right, it's actually called &quot;textured coated board&quot; in English, (Siebdruckplatte in German), i.e. birch plywood with phenol resin coating or something like that - rough on one side, very smooth on the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I have an 8mm thick, 20cm x 10m, or so, cast aluminium plate, pre-drilled to fit one of those cheap Katsu 101750 hand routers.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q1Pt1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q1Pt1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alu plate&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, that aluminium plate has rounded corners.&#xA;I first want to route out a rectangular region (with rounded corners) to only 8mm depth, to maybe a finger's width or two of the outer circumference of the alu plate towards its centre - leaving a rim for it to rest on at 8mm depth, making it flush with the upper plywood surface. And then completely cut out the inner rectangle, so the hand router can be mounted to the plate from the underside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I do this to match the rounded corners of the aluminium plate perfectly?&#xA;Do I need a straight router bit with exactly the same radius as the corner, or can this be done with smaller bits?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess it could be done with a guide bushing (correct English name for &quot;Kopierhülse&quot;?) and some sort of frame with rounded corners - which has to be larger than the alu plate by exactly the same amount... no idea of how to efficiently produce such a thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note for the worried: I did also buy a quality safety switch which ensures it will stay off after the end of a power outage. (and a momentarily-on foot switch, eh... to boot!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7921" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-11-15T08:10:46.767" LastActivityDate="2021-10-13T18:13:16.390" Title="Routing out recess for base plate - router table" Tags="|router|plywood|router-bit|router-table|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10096" CreationDate="2019-11-14T10:44:05.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am making my own wiping varnish by following Bob Flexner's recommendation of mixing polyurethane varnish (in my case, Minwax semigloss) with odorless mineral spirits. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without realising it you actually haven't followed Flexner's advice exactly, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5891/how-to-fix-very-light-scratches-in-polyurethane-finish/5893#5893&quot;&gt;previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;, noting carefully the wording of his very first bullet point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flexner recommends using gloss varnish exclusively for the build coats with wiping varnish. The main reason&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; for this is that any varnish with a sheen less than full gloss has matting agents, which fall from suspension and must be continually stirred back up to get even results. And the thinner the liquid the more quickly settling occurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So using semigloss is likely to be part of what's causing your uneven results, but obviously your varnish mix is drying a bit fast too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When varnish tacks up too fast one solution is simple, just add more solvent. You mention you've tried this already but you can go further, in fact as far as needed — Flexner has pointed out in his writing that there's no limit to how much you can thin oil-based varnish and it will still dry fine. So with an atypically fast-drying varnish you could mix it 1:1, or even more dilute if necessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your workshop is not warm and you're using an 'odourless' mineral spirits or OMS, which is slower evaporating than standard MS or naphtha&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, so you're already ahead of the game here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For next time&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;One other key aspect of using wiping varnish is wiping away the excess. You &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; have to, you can wipe away all, some or none of the excess varnish and it will still dry normally (although the time taken will vary). But you're more assured of a very nice surface that doesn't need a lot of work if you wipe much or all excess away, although the varnish will build more slowly this way, requiring more coats e.g. more than five&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What to do now&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You're already at 6-7 coats, you've likely got a decent build already but the surface isn't as smooth as you'd like so you have to work on it. One of the standard ways is 'flatting off' AKA rubbing out. To begin with you need to wait for the varnish to get good and hard. Many pros wait a fortnight or more before doing this, not just a few days to a week. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you're done with the initial flattening stage, commonly done by sanding wet, the surface will be very flat but very matt and you proceed from there to get to the finish you want. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is much good advice online on rubbing out varnish and other finishes, so just as a sample, &lt;a href=&quot;http://homesteadfinishingproducts.com/rubbing-out-finishes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rubbing Out Finishes&lt;/a&gt; on the Homestead Finishing Products site (written by Jeff Jewitt). It's light on pictures, actually there aren't any, but it's longer and more detailed than many guides you'll find not protected behind a paywall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the surface isn't quite as bad as I'm imagining the simpler technique in this video from American Woodworker may be all that you need to employ, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O9LOtYFMb-A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fast Finish Rub-Out&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; normally you'd do this with gloss varnish. The matting agents in semigloss may cause a problem. But the only real alternative is stripping back to bare wood and beginning again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Another reason is that multiple coats of satin and more matt varnishes build up a certain ghosting or cloudiness, obscuring more of the natural colour and grain of the wood than is desirable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Do be aware that in addition to the reduced smell OMS has a weaker solvent action. This can cause issues with finishes such as varnish that contain resins and also makes it less effective as a brush-cleaning solvent for these finishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; With no upper limit. You can apply a dozen or 15 coats if needed and have the patience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-11-14T10:44:05.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10100" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12856" CreationDate="2019-11-14T17:55:08.457" Score="8" ViewCount="240" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several months ago I turned this lignum vitae lidded box. The first thing I noticed after completing it was how quickly the wood changed color in the sunlight, going from a just-turned honey brown to a very dark brown in only a couple of hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I finished the box's exterior and interior in the same way, going through the grits up to 600 and then finishing with mineral oil and beeswax (or possibly carnauba/beeswax mix, I don't recall).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, after three or four months being indoors (on a table by a sunny window), I opened the box to find the inside surface covered in fine, silky white fibers:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ae5IR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ae5IR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fine white fibers on inside of box&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...as you can see from the photo above, the fibers aren't stuck strongly to the surface and bunch up easily when touched by a finger:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aDcR3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aDcR3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bunched-up fibers&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sometimes finish pieces with 0000 steel wool (but I don't recall finishing this one in that manner), so I held a strong magnet to the fibers to see if they would react, but nothing happened. Here's a closeup of the fibers after I wiped them out with a rag:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/khmy1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/khmy1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;macro shot&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...from the way the fibers bunch, it seems more like a spider-silk material than a cotton-fiber material, but either way I'm puzzled. Why would this only appear on the inside, and not the outside, of the box? Will it keep growing back after I wipe it away? Has anyone any ideas what might be happening here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="292" LastEditorUserId="292" LastEditDate="2019-11-15T02:45:42.293" LastActivityDate="2021-05-19T16:13:37.290" Title="What are these white fibers emanating from the inside of my lignum vitae lidded box?" Tags="|finishing|turning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10101" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10105" CreationDate="2019-11-17T15:39:31.480" Score="3" ViewCount="1265" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a cheap electric scroll saw, one of those Scheppach for ~ 100 EUR.&#xA;While they are not the best build quality, some people on youtube apparently are happy enough with it and manage to get the results they desire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manual says it can cut not too hard wood up to 25mm thickness.&#xA;I mainly bought it as I thought finer cuts (vs. electric jigsaw or hand-held circular saw) would translate to more precision, for things like &quot;simple&quot; finger joints, or cutting pars for smaller wooden cases such as for DIY loudspeaker enclosures and what have you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I tried to cut my usual material, pine or spruce, 18mm thick. A piece of 20x20 cm², I cut off a 3cm &quot;strip&quot;, drew a line across with ruler + pencil before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was unable to get anywhere near a straight cut. More of a irregularly modulated sine curve with weak amplitude, but not weak enough...&#xA;The blade seems reasonably tensioned and I don't think the machine warrants more tension, but still, the blade bends (torsion) rather easily, making the process rather wobbly. Also when I saw I was leaving the drawn line, the only thing that seemed to help to get back onto it was not just trying to correct the angle, but also actually moving the workpiece's cutting line out of the virtual vertical line between the two mounting pins of the blade, i.e. actively bending the blade,   which is obviously curving the cut in the sideways dimension, and probably not good for the machine &amp;amp; blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have watched a couple videos of people demoing that cheap saw, but I was not able to replicate their results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What am I probably doing wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7921" LastActivityDate="2019-11-21T16:21:32.350" Title="How to get straight cuts with a scroll saw?" Tags="|scroll-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10102" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-18T04:40:34.173" Score="1" ViewCount="221" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have built a wooden chest and lid. It will likely have people sitting on it. It's about 36 inches wide, 20 inches deep, and 20 inches high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A sketch of the frame can be seen here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tinkercad.com/things/iK2g60WCdmG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.tinkercad.com/things/iK2g60WCdmG&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The frame was made from 2x4s (douglas fir) and the panels from fence posts (cedar wood).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I finished it with oil-based polyurethane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I rest the lid on, it rocks slightly. If you sit on it, it is very solid, but I can imagine that the rocking could put a bit of strain on the hinges. I'm also not totally sure how the polyurethane surfaces will do in direct contact with each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The alternative is to get some little rubber stoppers (eg &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07S646BZN&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/Cabinet-Adhesive-Dampening-Especial-Circular/dp/B07S646BZN?ref_=ast_slp_dp&lt;/a&gt;) and put 4 or 6 or whatever onto the lid (I was thinking the 4 corners + the middle of the long length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is would be better to have the little rubber stoppers (how many and where?) or just let the coated wood lid sit on the chest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will be closed for probably months at a time. Sat on infrequently, but maybe daily. Just wondered if anyone with more experience would have a view on how to finish this project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The current plan is that I'll just screw in a couple of little brass hinges and maybe add a chain inside to prevent the lid from opening too far. Any thoughts on better/prettier/more interesting ideas are also welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photos of the incompleted chest:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J6mrw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J6mrw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;chest1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jmaDf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jmaDf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;chest2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidental thoughts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After making this I thought that the framing idea might not be so good because of lateral wood expansion. I have left a little space between the panels and it's going to be indoors, but still. I also made sure that the panels were orientated parallel to the longest edge. Time will tell if this will be enough. I also simplified the jointing for the framing a little bit from what I had in the tinkercad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feel free to weigh in on this or anything else. I'd love to learn from people who know what they're doing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5783" LastActivityDate="2019-11-18T07:54:11.930" Title="Rubber bumper or no on a wooden chest lid?" Tags="|hinges|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10102" CreationDate="2019-11-18T07:54:11.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ideal fix here is arguably to get the lid to sit flat on its own, but that may involve disassembly. The other option is a tweak to one or both hinge installations but that's not that easy to do. So why not install rubber pads if they'll do what you need? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to how many, well how many does it take? No way anyone can answer that without the thing in front of them, and even then finding out empirically may be the only good way to do it*. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm also not totally sure how the polyurethane surfaces will do in direct contact with each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They should be fine once the varnish has fully cured. Assume this will take 30 days to be on the safe side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get slight issues with sticking paste wax will sort that out for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After making this I thought that the framing idea might not be so good because of lateral wood expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The elephant in the room really. Don't know what kind of swings in humidity and temperature you get where you are, but if there's a fair change in RH from the wettest to the driest months you can expect a fair amount of movement in wood. You've allowed for some movement and that could be enough. But as you say yourself, time will tell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For future reference on this, either fully float a panel that's made from solid wood (as in frame-and-panel cabinet doors). Or use ply or MDF for the panel so it doesn't have any appreciable movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*This will be somewhat like levelling table legs with adjustable feet, where you have to try things until you're done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-11-18T07:54:11.930" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10101" CreationDate="2019-11-18T19:37:34.527" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As suggested in the comments, it is going to be a challenge to do &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; repeatable joinery cuts with a scroll saw. Regardless of what you see on the internet, even the best-tuned scroll saw will have a fair amount of wobble and vibration at speed. And as soon as you start pushing material, it is going to want to wander. As @Graphus mentioned, even a band saw with a fence is not going to make for great joinery cuts!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(It occurs to me that I know some folks will use a coping saw to clean up dovetails. This is sort of similar but the control you have with a hand coping saw is miles from a scroll saw even though the mechanics of the cutting is similar. Anyway, whenever I hear about that I always think &quot;why not use a nice sharp chisel?&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you could research how to tune your saw for the best straight line cutting, but it might be a bit of a fool's errand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finger joints are really a product of mechanized woodworking. They really shine when you have to make production amounts of joints (often with relatively cheap material), and you don't necessarily want to hire or train someone with skill in joinery. A table saw and a jig is all you need. But it is a compromise; finger joints are never as strong as dovetails or other joinery (though often strong enough with modern glues).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation would be to invest in a table saw or even a router (if you want to make a lot of finger joints and really get into mechanized woodworking). Obviously, this is a lot of overhead if you just want to mess about a bit in your shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, change tack a little and switch to traditional dovetail joinery using hand tools. You only need a few simple tools easily found online or in your local big box store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you insist on using a scroll saw you might want to look into making a jig or fence of some kind. And a common technique for fingers is to cut the joints for mating pieces at the same time, just offset by a single finger and flipped. This way, depending on the nature of the errors, at least the errors tend to match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will add that, further to my comment about coping saws higher up, I suppose you could try to use your scroll saw in one particular similar manner. There is a technique where dovetails or bridle mortises are roughed out with a coping saw. One starts at the mark on the end and, instead of trying to follow the mark perfectly, slices into the waste until you reach the bottom mark. Repeat for the other side of the mortise. Then clean up with a chisel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This allows you to rough out the waste pretty quickly, but you still have the chance to make nice tight joinery. The idea is that you use the copying saw to do what it does best: make curved cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kGPie.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kGPie.png&quot; alt=&quot;Coping saw roughing detail, Popular Woodworking&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Building a Handmade Try Square, Popular Woodworking&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It isn't the same as doing all the finger shoulders with a blade, as it requires that you cut the shoulders with a tenon saw. But it might be worth considering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-11-21T16:21:32.350" LastActivityDate="2019-11-21T16:21:32.350" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10106" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-18T20:30:03.530" Score="4" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to finish a pine dresser. Here are the steps I have taken so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sanded&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 layer pre-stain wood conditioner (Varathane)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 layers of wood stain (Varathane Classic)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 layer of water-based poly  (Varathane Ultimate Poly Matte)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Used 000 steel wool to get rid of lifts/defects&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read I should not use water-based poly after the steel wool, as it can rust out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I finish my piece now? Do I sand again and re-apply water-based Poly?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the silver/gray marks and how do I get rid of them?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rVFjz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rVFjz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Silver Marks/scratches on &amp;quot;finished&amp;quot; product&amp;quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/00gAQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/00gAQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Silver Marks/scratches on &amp;quot;finished&amp;quot; product&amp;quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7985" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-11-18T20:44:28.110" LastActivityDate="2019-11-20T08:50:46.497" Title="How do I finish-off pine wood after issues?" Tags="|wood|polyurethane|pine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10106" CreationDate="2019-11-20T08:50:46.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How do I finish my piece now? Do I sand again and re-apply water-based Poly?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  What are the silver/gray marks and how do I get rid of them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the silvery areas only appeared after using the steel wool, and seem to disappear when wetted, a fresh coat of finish may be all that's required to remove them&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. But see last point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Used 000 steel wool to get rid of lifts/defects&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steel wool shouldn't be used between coats of waterbased poly, as you say in the Question this is due to the chance of rust from specs of steel left behind on/in the surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that you have done so you have two main options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;take the chance of recoating with the existing finish after carefully cleaning the surface, you can sand lightly as part of this but regardless you must &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; thoroughly dust it;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;switch to using an oil-based varnish.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously the colour of the finish will be different in the second case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; for future reference steel wool is not ideal for this purpose anyway. Fine abrasive papers work better for de-nibbing dried finish — steel wool tends to round over defects rather than cutting through them like sanding does. Some people prefer not to sand and use 'synthetic steel wool' (e.g. Scotch-Brite) instead which cuts more like abrasive paper than steel wool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Comments:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The time between stain to coat was like 24 hours later. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may not have been long enough, although I realise it follows the product guidelines exactly. For the same kind of stain other manufacturers recommend a wait of &lt;em&gt;72 hours&lt;/em&gt; between stain and application of waterbased finishes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This gives us a hint that Rust-Oleum's instructions may be a little underestimated..... the fact that they are also a manufacturer that grossly understates the time for their Premium Wood Conditioner to dry to achieve ideal results&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; makes this even more likely I think!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible this has had a contributory effect to the silvery areas you're seeing. Or may be the underlying cause, pun intended — the finish is poorly adhering to areas of stain that haven't dried sufficiently. If this is the case a fresh coat of finish will not remove the problem entirely and I'm afraid your only recourse is to strip off the finish and start again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; All finishes will get a somewhat grey or silvery appearance when abraded simply because the surface is now covered in fine scratches which scatter the light. This is the same basic effect as between a gloss varnish and a matt varnish, or normal glass and reduced-glare glass used in a picture frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; See &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/flexner-on-finishing-woodworking-blogs/how-wood-conditioners-are-giving-washcoats-a-bad-name/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How Wood Conditioners are Giving Washcoats a Bad Name&lt;/a&gt; on Popular Woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-11-20T08:50:46.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10109" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10176" CreationDate="2019-11-20T20:44:01.860" Score="1" ViewCount="1083" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had an email today about a board that had started to split. This was a new board. We're wondering why this failed so badly - the only other time I've seen a stringy separation like this was when heat was involved, but our exposure to these failures is limited so I wanted to get feedback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glue is Tightbond 3, joints were let to set for 24 hours, we lightly oiled it (good coat on both sides, let it soak in) and put some beeswax/oil mix on before it left for its new home. The owners said that they had only used it a couple of times when the crack started to appear, and that they had not let it sit in water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We do live in a very humid area, but the wood had been.. what's the word, &quot;equalized?&quot;. Basically we let it sit for a few weeks before actually doing anything with it. We had mostly finished the board and let it sit for almost three weeks before giving it a final sand and oil, unsure if that may have been related. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T6IuG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T6IuG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;separation point&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4MlgZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4MlgZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;top view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A3DFj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A3DFj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;another angle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6093" LastEditorUserId="6093" LastEditDate="2019-11-20T21:40:21.840" LastActivityDate="2019-12-19T18:37:52.360" Title="Separation in Butcher Block" Tags="|butcher-block|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10109" CreationDate="2019-11-20T21:34:10.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This certainly appears to be a wood movement issue, if you look very closely at the first image, you can see the dark (walnut?) square block is not as wide as the maple behind it, yet the cut lines on the right side line up. Assuming the block sizes where the same when the butcher block was assembled the block that separated is slightly smaller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7993" LastActivityDate="2019-11-20T21:34:10.980" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10111" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-22T02:06:54.550" Score="1" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a skittles board with b2 birch plywood.  For those that don't know, this is not a candy server - it is a tabletop game somewhat like a combination of bowling, shuffleboard and top spinning.  A 2' x 4' open top box is divided into a few &quot;rooms&quot; with open doors between them.  Miniature bowling pins are set up in the rooms, and you set a top spinning from one end of the apparatus to knock them over.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tzuLS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tzuLS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;People playing skittles&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to follow the plans here fairly closely: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.vintageprojects.com/kids/SkittlesGame.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PDF plan of skittle board&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their recommendation for finishing is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After   cutting   all   doorways—a   job   you   can speed  by  careful  stacking  of  the  blanks—sand edges  smooth.  A  coat  of  shellac  thinned  50  per-cent  with  alcohol,   followed   with   two   coats   of enamel  makes  a durable  finish.  Brushing is  easier if  you  prefinish  the  parts  before  you  glue  and nail  them  together.The smoother the  finish  on  the  floor,  the longer the  top  will  spin,  so  give  it  extra  care  and  attention.  Sand  carefully  between  each  coat  of  shellac and enamel;  then  apply  a paste  wax  and  buff it  to a hard  finish  before  assembly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What this doesn't address is when to apply the lettering indicating scores for various pins.  Is that the first step?  The last?  (Probably not the last, since the painted lettering would leave a little bit of a textural variation.)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus these directions are pretty old -maybe there is a better technique overall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What methods should I use to get bright red and blue numbers to end up visible on the (very smooth) &quot;floor&quot; of the box?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is similar to this one: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/6722/finish-for-hand-painted-lettered-wood-sign&quot;&gt;Finish for hand painted/lettered wood sign&lt;/a&gt;  but I am not particularly concerned about the end result being waterproof, but I do need it to be durable against clattering pins&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2035" LastEditorUserId="2035" LastEditDate="2019-11-22T04:34:30.867" LastActivityDate="2019-11-22T04:34:30.867" Title="Durable clear finish over lettering on natural background" Tags="|finishing|paint|surface-preparation|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10112" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10116" CreationDate="2019-11-22T08:43:21.360" Score="3" ViewCount="243" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say you have the opportunity to nail a piece of trim in from the back with an 16-18ga finish nail on a barn door (so all wood construction). You were smart about it and made sure it wouldn't bust through the face. Is this less strong than face nailing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6124" LastActivityDate="2019-11-24T02:08:20.853" Title="Back nail or face nail. Which is stronger?" Tags="|wood|strength|trim|nailing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10114" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10115" CreationDate="2019-11-23T08:32:48.640" Score="1" ViewCount="193" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am aiming to cut a single piece of timber into 2, such that I can dynamically change the length by joining the pieces with screws. This would allow me to use a shorter piece of wood, rather than joining 2 longer pieces together. The following diagram shows the cut I attempt to make to do this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sA794.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sA794.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Variable length wood&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just a couple of questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a name for this type of cut?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it possible to cut this, what tools would be required?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; Thank you for the responses, some clarifications:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yes, I failed to account for the material lost due to the cutting process.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If this was constructed from 2 separate pieces of timber, there would be a wastage of the length of the cut in the grain direction. If cutting from a single piece, there would not be any wastage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The purpose would have been to create a frame, such that the depth could be adjusted by unscrewing, sliding the wood and re-screwing onto a number of fixed holes. The load would have been on the ends, not on the joint in the centre.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am now of the impression this is not practical to construct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8002" LastEditorUserId="8002" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T08:40:05.317" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T08:40:05.317" Title="How to cut a variable length wood from 1 piece?" Tags="|joinery|cutting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10114" CreationDate="2019-11-23T14:52:22.547" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's unclear what you want to use this joint for, but that would be some kind of lap joint. It is cut the same way any &quot;rebate&quot; is cut: with machine tools like a saw or router, or with a hand saw. It depends on the dimensions you are thinking about, and the type of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would not be very strong in a few directions, though. Metal fasteners in wood are strongest in the shear direction, so this might be ok for minimal tension or compression loads. Though the failure mode would be sudden and catastrophic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And loads perpendicular to that joint on any axis would fail almost immediately. This isn't really using wood in a manner that takes advantage of its strengths. If this &quot;joint&quot; was stiffened and strengthened by some other construction it might be ok, but since you do not show that here it's hard to imagine your application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe tell us what you are trying to achieve? If you want a sliding joint like those found in some tables, there are all-wood techniques for doing so. There are also hardware solutions that offer similar solutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your question is about ways of combining multiple pieces of wood into single dimensioned pieces then, in general, this is not the way to go about it. Depending on the application, there are several well-tested traditional ways of doing this that trade-off strength, aesthetics, and skill required. As the engineering maxim goes: &quot;Good, fast, or cheap; choose any two.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-11-23T15:06:41.070" LastActivityDate="2019-11-23T15:06:41.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10112" CreationDate="2019-11-23T15:15:12.377" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly, I would not do this. There are many techniques for blind-nailing trim if you really want it to look nice and want to minimize finishing steps to hide nail heads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, as suggested in the comments, there already is a technique for angling nails so you maximize the strength of the fastener interface. When I was in the trades I saw that there were two ways to install wood trim:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bang it on with enough nails straight in, countersink, call it a day because the rest of the job is for the painters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the extra few minutes to match up mitres nicely, and angle your fasteners cleverly so joints are tightened and the nail heads need minimal prep for finishing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) was cheap and cheerful and was fine, mostly. Paint covers many sins. (2) took about 1/2 day longer but the results were astonishing. Some of the joints were hard to even see, and often nail heads were tucked under a little slice of glued-down wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(It occurs to me that toward the end of my tenure, a third option showed up. Trim installers tore a page from the roofers' book and started using nail guns and headless staples. Ka-chunk psst ka-chunk psst glrgglrglgrlgrl all day long...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-11-24T02:08:20.853" LastActivityDate="2019-11-24T02:08:20.853" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10117" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10119" CreationDate="2019-11-24T19:31:14.440" Score="5" ViewCount="1503" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m trying to remove some stains off those red maple veneers that were glued together with CA adhesive. I’ve sanded the veneers as much as I could but their thickness make it hard to go too deep into the material. I’ve then used mineral oil but the stains keep coming back once it dries. Any idea? &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kixi6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;CA glue stains on wood veneers&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8003" LastEditorUserId="8003" LastEditDate="2019-11-25T14:47:00.593" LastActivityDate="2019-11-25T18:43:38.397" Title="How to remove CA glue stains on wood?" Tags="|staining|glue|veneer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10118" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-25T16:51:06.213" Score="1" ViewCount="177" Body="&lt;p&gt;What alternatives do I have to make this rocking chair usable once again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was considering cane webbing, but I don't think it would work here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was also thinking of using a cheap rug, but I have no idea how to install it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some pictures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mSzqk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mSzqk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4e7JF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4e7JF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X37hS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X37hS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6fZpX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6fZpX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2833" LastActivityDate="2019-11-27T09:05:11.493" Title="Add backing to wood rocking chair?" Tags="|wood|furniture|glue|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10117" CreationDate="2019-11-25T18:43:38.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regrettably when adhesive gets on to the surface like this there's really no good option but to remove the affected wood, usually by sanding or scraping&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can, in theory, remove the adhesive from the wood by some sort of washing procedure including the use of solvents and this can work well sometimes. But even with glues that are more easily soluble (like the PVAs) it's not always possible to get every trace out, in which case you have to resort to sanding or scraping anyway — occasionally the same amount you would have been doing regardless, because it's the deepest traces that you're going after. Plus there are additional concerns when working with veneers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So unfortunately you may have no option but to remove more wood and hope you don't wear through the veneer. If you do want to try cleaning the glue residue out of the wood superglue debonder is the thing to try&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. While all common advice on dealing with superglue says to use acetone honestly it doesn't have much affect on dried CA, even if it has only just hardened much less had a few days to toughen up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Scraping is the superior method in a lot of cases. As covered in some previous Answers it is frequently faster, it's more controllable, it produces no airborne dust to speak of, it's capable of reaching into tight spaces and &amp;lt;90° corners in a way that no sanding can do and on top of all of that it often gives a better result. It is well worth anyone's time learning how to scrape and gaining experience with it by practising at every available opportunity so it becomes part of your woodworking arsenal, instead of reaching for the power sander or sanding block by default.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; You can also use MEK or something similar, but these are relatively dangerous solvents and you might not want to mess with them without a suitable respirator on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-11-25T18:43:38.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10120" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10138" CreationDate="2019-11-25T23:56:39.690" Score="6" ViewCount="753" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have one curved staircase riser I need to veneer or otherwise match with hardwood floor. All the other risers are going to be done with thin plywood and clear coated (treads will be assembled from hardwood planks and nosing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was carpet installed on those stairs, so the wood underneath is fairly rough, splits, cavities, etc. My first attempt with liquid contact cement (solvent based) failed miserably, there are bubbles and splits, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no way I can think of clamping it over whole area (especially the curved part), so whatever is used should stay put with minimal support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the next attempt I'm looking at sanding failed veneer down to base wood and applying new layer with polyurethane construction adhesive (PL Premium, or one of the variants). The idea is to heat it up a bit so it flows better, spread it evenly on the vertical riser with a trowel or a roller, then apply paper-backed veneer, roll it out to get an even surface (small waves are ok), then support it with a few boards (might actually sit fine as is).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is that PL will fill the cavities and act as a bodyfiller under veneer, and if I manage to get a fairly smooth surface, it will stay like that forever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The floor and stair are in natural maple, so any kind of light wood look should blend well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is: will this work? Does anybody use polyurethane glues for veneering? What problems should I anticipate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2633" LastEditorUserId="2633" LastEditDate="2019-11-26T17:06:58.893" LastActivityDate="2019-12-05T09:06:26.833" Title="Veneering with construction adhesives (PL Premium, etc)" Tags="|glue|polyurethane|veneer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10121" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-26T13:46:12.200" Score="1" ViewCount="8968" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am staining a wood table which I believe might be oak.  The table has been sanded to 150 grit and pre-conditioned with water based Minwax product.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last night we applied water based Minwax stain.  The first quarter-section of the table run we stained was left on too long (~8 minutes).  It was clumpy when wiping off the wet stain and it dried looking streaky and uneven.  The remainder of the table we dried off quicker (~2 minutes) and that side looks fine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone suggest the best way to correct the streaky uneven section?  The stain has dried for about 8 hours. We are planning to add a second coat of stain to the good side for a darker tint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Could I just apply more stain and wipe it off quicker?  Will that even out the bad spots? Will the other side still blend okay? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you I need to sand it down and try again?  Is is possible to remove all the stain down to bare wood?  Do I need to sand only the bad section or the entire table? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a refinishing job.  The table was originally painted with chalk paint.  I sanded away the paint with 60-grit sandpaper using 1/4-Inch Sheet sanding machine.  When the paint was all gone I went over it again with 60-grit to ensure the top coat was also removed.  Once at bare wood I sanded down to 150-grit.  Then applied water based Minwax pre-conditioner and Minwax stain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I did the original sanding I was under the impression the wood is Oak, but commentors here say the wood looks like rubberwood. (Based on some reading, I think both are hardwoods). I had on hand 150 and 220 so I went with 150 grit for finishing sanding. I chose 150 base on this article, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.nortonabrasives.com/en-us/resources/expertise/bare-wood-sanding&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;nortonabrasives.com/Barewoodsanding&lt;/a&gt;: &quot;&lt;em&gt;For hardwoods such as maple and oak, start with a 120 grit abrasive and finish sand no finer than 180 grit for water based stains&lt;/em&gt;&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE, 2019-12-02, Light sanding and re-staining:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hoped that I could lightly sand the darker area, apply the stain again, and would get even results.  As seen in the picture below this did not turn out with good results. The color looks nice.  But the stain is uneven, there are splotches and streaks. I will note (as seen in the picture), when sanding the stained table the stain seems to have &quot;peeled off&quot; or &quot;flaked&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are planning to do a complete re-sanding down to bare wood.  And then from there we haven't decided if we will try water based stain again (this time with a soaked cloth and quick application).  Or we might try the gel stain (I currently don't know much about this option).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMAGE: Streaky stain original&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5t0yr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5t0yr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Streaky Stain Original&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMAGE: Streaky stain after light re-sanding&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xq9hd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xq9hd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8007" LastEditorUserId="8007" LastEditDate="2019-12-03T22:17:15.120" LastActivityDate="2024-02-21T00:27:37.417" Title="How to correct water based stain dried streaky" Tags="|staining|tabletop|refinishing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10118" CreationDate="2019-11-27T09:05:11.493" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What alternatives do I have to make this rocking chair usable once again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously the full options include re-doing the seating with some kind of weaving. This can be a DIY thing, but really it's a job for a professional unless one is really dedicated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ply panels&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The simplest solution I can think of is something that anyone could tackle and that is to inset pieces of plywood cut to a close fit to the existing rebates/rabbets on the seat and back. A bit ugly perhaps but serviceable. Adding a chamfer or roundover to the front edges of the plywood will improve the appearance a little and help reduce the chance of the edges becoming damaged over time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both chamfering and rounding-over can be done using careful sanding only if you don't own a router or other suitable tool for doing chamfers or roundovers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making these plywood panels accurately to shape could be challenging but will be made much easier if you begin by making stiff card or corrugated cardboard templates, which can be cut easily with scissors and knife until the fit it just right (hint, corrugated cardboard from boxes cuts very well with a breadknife used as a saw). Then you simply trace around them on to your plywood and cut it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Basic upholstered panels&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;One step up from this is to use plywood panels as the basis for upholstered panels as per @FreeMan's Comment, with foam and/or other soft padding and a tightly-stretched cloth cover. Note that the plywood needs to be reduced in size all around to allow for the thickness of the cloth, especially at corners where folds/pleats need to be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's beyond the scope of an Answer here to describe upholstery techniques in necessary detail so further research will be needed if you choose to go down this route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-11-27T09:05:11.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3577" CreationDate="2019-11-27T22:04:02.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/3588/5572&quot;&gt;answer by user1981&lt;/a&gt; probably has the key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top and bottom sheets will warp cause just one side is sealed and the other is exposed to air. Air exposure will allow it to take on or shed moisture depending on atmospheric conditions. The side snugged up to the next sheet gets no contact with the air so the moisture content of the sheet is imbalanced and causes warp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that all the sheets in the middle remain flat so store vertical and use spacers between sheets just like sticker boards when drying fresh sawn lumber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8011" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-11-28T16:29:20.917" LastActivityDate="2019-11-28T16:29:20.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10121" CreationDate="2019-11-28T09:38:31.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;TL;DR warning I guess....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The first quarter-section of the table run we stained was left on too long (~8 minutes). It was clumpy when wiping off the wet stain and it dried looking streaky and uneven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note this does not apply here, I'm including it for completeness.&lt;/em&gt; For future reference the ideal time to tackle streaking in a stain job is right then, not later when the stain has had a chance to fully penetrate, and dry. If you notice some streaks or other irregularities re-wetting the surface (either with water, or as some guides suggest with more stain) it's possible to improve the result markedly with only a little extra effort. One additional point worth mentioning now is that when staining, especially with waterbased and spirit-based dyes or stains, it's absolutely vital to stain each surface in one go, so you need a method to get the stain on in bulk quickly and efficiently. This is why brush application of these stains is a bad idea (fine for oil-based), and you should for example use a rag wet with plenty of the finish so you can get the whole surface wet in one shot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However from what we can see in the photos no tricks would have gotten you the smooth result you were going for because the wood wasn't prepped sufficiently for staining to commence. So let's back up a bit and talk about what should have been done &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; the stain went on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Six-P rule&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When preparing wood for refinishing — not just when staining, but especially when you are — it's important to check for any areas of remaining finish (and possibly for glue contamination from the glue-up in the factory) before going to the next step. As I say in the Comments above, stubborn patches like this are very common (regardless of the method used to remove the old finish, including when stripping). Visual inspection in a raking light is one good way to spot these as you may be able to see marked differences in surface gloss, but the ideal method is to wet the wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And when planning to use a waterbased stain you want to pre-wet the wood anyway for other reasons&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, so this is no longer an extra step. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you wet a piece that's being refinished any area which still has finish or glue on it will stay light in colour while the bare wood will go significantly darker and you can immediately spot any problem areas. Even areas that only have a trace of finish or glue left in the grain or surface fibres show up and now is the time to find them and deal with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What now?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You really have only two choices here, actually three if you include repainting :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't repaint&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; and you want to stick with your original strategy you have no real choice but to take the tabletop back to bare wood and begin again as waterbased stains require a pristine bare-wood surface to work as intended. This is going to require sanding and lots of it, which is another argument in favour of not sanding old finish off in the first place since this is now two rounds of heavy sanding, increasing the chance of damage or alteration of appearance&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other option is to switch colouring products and go with a coloured overcoat, specifically &quot;gel stain&quot;. This is not stain despite the name, it's thickened coloured varnish. &quot;Gel stain&quot; doesn't rely on penetrating the wood since it's a surface coating. But you would need to go a lot darker for it to possibly hide the current light patches so you may want to sand back all or part way for this too. However it's still worth considering as getting an even colour on a large surface is far easier with &quot;gel stain&quot; than it is with waterbased stains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A note on pre-stain&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Pre-stain treatments including commercial products such as &quot;wood conditioner&quot; and &quot;blotch control&quot; are useful, sometimes vital, to good results&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt;. But anything like this should &lt;strong&gt;only&lt;/strong&gt; be used where it's required and never otherwise. Wood species that don't require them (and this is the majority of hardwoods) will be partially sealed, greatly limiting how much stain they can absorb and therefore how dark the wood can go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you'll be doing more refinishing jobs I strongly recommend you switch methods for removing the previous finish and primarily rely on chemical strippers instead of sanding, and where they can't be used doing as much scraping as you can. &lt;em&gt;Some&lt;/em&gt; sanding is inevitable and necessary, but as covered in numerous previous Answers of mine sanding is the worst way to remove old finish and it should never be thought of as the primary means to do it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; You're raising the grain ahead of time so that the stain doesn't do this, but in fact you may actually want to dampen the wood slightly just before the stain goes on (in addition to these previous wettings) to ensure a good result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; And jokes aside I would suggest you give the idea some consideration as it would require far less time, effort and cost — you can go straight to this option after a light sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Edges and corners are susceptible to damage when sanding even by hand, but much more so when using power sanders. And any heavy sanding risks ruining the appearance of edge treatments like chamfers and roundovers. There's even the chance of visibly thinning a panel that's not particularly thick to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt; Note however that most are nothing more than diluted finish, which you can of course make yourself at home and at a significant saving. In the past, before such products were available, 'size' (watered-down glue) and heavily thinned shellac 'washcoats' were used when needed and can still be relied on for this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-11-28T09:38:31.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10125" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10128" CreationDate="2019-12-01T14:34:53.013" Score="1" ViewCount="611" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering a Makita track saw. I wondered if anyone sees chip or tear out on the non-track side. I understand that festool has an insert (Festool 499011) which the blade cuts through, so something is contacting both sides of the cut. Does the Makita have something similar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main reason is that I'm going to attempt a continuous grain pattern, so I'd like to make one cut but have both sides useable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8018" LastActivityDate="2019-12-03T21:35:14.227" Title="Chip out outside side of track saw cut?" Tags="|plywood|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10126" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-01T23:48:58.937" Score="0" ViewCount="1009" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read this question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2258/edge-jointing-end-grain-cutting-board-strips-with-a-power-jointer&quot;&gt;Edge jointing end grain cutting board strips with a power jointer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And someone made a suggestion, glue a side grain hardwood border, which in theory would make it safe to pass through the jointer by preventing splitting. Is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm in this exact situation, I'm making these small &lt;code&gt;6&quot; x 9&quot;&lt;/code&gt; cutting boards with end grain cherry and a side grain purple heart border (see image):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HzvM6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HzvM6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cutting board&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it safe to pass these over a jointer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8020" LastEditorUserId="8020" LastEditDate="2019-12-02T17:02:40.887" LastActivityDate="2019-12-03T14:58:53.980" Title="End grain cutting board through jointer with sidegrain border, is it safe?" Tags="|jointer|end-grain|cutting-board|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="18" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10127" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10129" CreationDate="2019-12-02T03:49:23.507" Score="8" ViewCount="5773" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm only just starting out on basic woodworking projects as a side hobby, and I don't have many tools. But a bigger problem is that I live in an apartment and don't have the room for a fancy workshop or even a bench, so I've been doing most of my work by clamping wood to my dining table and cutting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I picked up a miter box at Harbor Freight a couple weeks ago, and it's neat, but unfortunately it's very shallow, only about 1.5&quot;. I've been planning out a couple projects as Christmas gifts that would benefit from angled joints, but the pieces I'd be working on are too large to fit in the miter box, as I would have to start sawing from far above where the angle guide is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen videos on how to manually make 45 degree cuts, but the problem is, this doesn't work that well when I'm making the angled cut on a very small surface area, for example, going down a 1/8&quot; piece of plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To give you an example of the specific kind of cut I wanted to do, one of the projects I'm planning to work on is a dice tower. You can see an example of one here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bPzqt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bPzqt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dice Tower&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the slats inside acting as ramps, I could just stick them in there at an angle and glue them to the sides, but that would leave an ugly angled crevice near the wall, so I'd like it if they connect nicely to all sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a good way to do this by hand? Any cheap tools I can get? I can't afford much at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6210" LastActivityDate="2020-08-13T18:50:33.477" Title="Angled cuts without miter saw or miter box?" Tags="|hand-tools|miter-joint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10125" CreationDate="2019-12-02T08:51:59.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think Makita has this feature. Also, it does not really help on the Festool machine in my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good technique is to not cut completely with the first cut but only the first 1 or 2mm. Then, make sure the track is in the same position and make the final cut. My Mafell MT55cc has an extra setting for this kind of cut which also moves the blade 1/10mm to the side; so for sure no tear out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also make sure to use the correct blade for cutting. In general, less teeth if you cut along the fibres and more teeth orthogonal to the fibres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2738" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-12-03T21:35:14.227" LastActivityDate="2019-12-03T21:35:14.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10127" CreationDate="2019-12-02T08:55:28.013" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The type of mitres you're looking to do are called &lt;em&gt;case mitres&lt;/em&gt; because in a different context they'd be used for casework, i.e. cabinetry or box making&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than sawing them directly (challenging to do with hand tools) the standard method to produce these is by planing. Even if your freehand sawing was very very good and you could do the cuts freehand (or in tall DIY mitre box) you'd still want to finish off the mitre by some method because sawn faces are rarely good enough that you'd want them to show as-is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because we're in the era of power sanding you can also do this using a belt sander (or a disk sander for smaller pieces), using a jig of some sort to present the workpiece to the sanding surface at 45°.&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do this by planing the traditional jig for the work is called a donkey's-ear shooting board:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/83mnq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/83mnq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Donkey&amp;#39;s ear&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see this places the plane flat on its side, as normal for shooting, with the workpiece at an angle hanging off the edge of the bench. More modern planing jigs often approach the problem in a different way, allowing the work to be more easily held steady because it's flat, with the plane angled. Some good versions of this type are shown on the following pages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/mitre-shooting-board.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/mitre-shooting-board.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/22991-woodworking-design-opinions-required-please/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/22991-woodworking-design-opinions-required-please/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.finewoodworking.com/2017/03/29/a-shooting-board-for-case-miters&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.finewoodworking.com/2017/03/29/a-shooting-board-for-case-miters&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you can also plane these mitres entirely by hand, with no jig. It's tricky initially but not too difficult if you mark out carefully and go slow, and as with most things you would get better at it quite quickly with practice. If interested here's a good video on the subject from Mitch Peacock on YouTube:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=feCJoq8W1VU&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=feCJoq8W1VU&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many guides suggest the plane to use for this type of work (which would be planing end grain exclusively if you were using solid wood&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;) is a low-angle block plane. While I consider a block plane an essential part of the toolkit and would suggest anyone (even the power-tool user) have at least one, if you don't currently own a plane I'm not sure it's the ideal first purchase. If buying a single plane a standard bench plane, for smaller work a no. 4 specifically, presents the best bang for the buck and there are a few budget-friendly models available now in most markets that are of quite respectable quality&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; if you don't already have any sharpening supplies you need those too right from the start. A plane's iron needs to be super sharp to plane end-grain surfaces to a high standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; As opposed to the the more common type of mitre, the &lt;em&gt;frame mitre&lt;/em&gt; as used in face frames on cabinets or picture/mirror frames. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Something like the same setup could be arranged for hand sanding too, but you'd really only want to use this for finalising the angled face that you've produced by some other method or combination of methods, rather than creating it from scratch as you might on a power sander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; The edge of plywood is a mixture of long grain and end grain due to each ply being oriented 90° to the next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt; If secondhand tools are available where you are I would suggest a vintage plane is a better investment, even if the cost is a little higher, but in some places older planes are available for much less than a budget modern plane while being nearly always of far higher quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-12-02T17:06:20.067" LastActivityDate="2019-12-02T17:06:20.067" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7898" CreationDate="2019-12-02T16:45:06.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Upon my understanding, referencing the &quot;Design of Wood Structures ASD/LRFD&quot;,  (Donald E. Breyer &amp;amp; Kelly Cobeen), withdrawal loads into end grain is frowned upon. It really suggests that this type of connection should not be used, especially for wood lag bolts or screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is to account for a couple of items. One, as the lumber cures splitting commonly occurs at the ends. Second, as the lag/screw is installed, regardless of pre-drilling, the threads sever the grains of the lumber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember the best analogy for the wood fibers is a bundle of straws. As for connections in cross grain tension, you rely on this cross grain strength along the length of the fastener. This does provide some withdrawal strength, although it is not recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience I have seen many connections fail that rely on this type of connection; I would call it a &quot;plug&quot; type failure. The fastener will easily pull out, especially when subjected to shrink swell action, and will leave material between the threads along the length of the fastener.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would only use end grain for shear connections, if desperate, and take the 0.67 reduction for shear strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8023" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-12-03T20:03:05.830" LastActivityDate="2019-12-03T20:03:05.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10126" CreationDate="2019-12-02T18:00:46.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll assume that you are asking about this because you are actually making several of these at the same time, and want to stack up the steps. This is often done when when mass producing things like cutting boards. They are often sliced, planed, and jointed from larger chunks. [And I see from your last comment that this is exactly what you are doing.] Of course, these sorts of shops (factories, really) probably also have power feeders and other conveniences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, the edges will often not be actually run through a jointer. To handle complicated grain patterns, most high production shops will use a higher RPM tool, along with with multiple carbide cutters. They treat the wood more like soft metal, trying to throw off tiny chips. In most cases this will be some sort of routing tool, probably with variable speed and a pretty high top speed. The profile will be cut into the edges with and across the grain reasonably well, though there is often a finish sanding step required because of tear-out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also have to accept some number of items that have to be discarded because of tear-out or whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; need to use a jointer, I suspect a much higher RPM unit with higher numbers of carbide cutters is what you want. My advice would be try with fresh cutters, taking &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; light passes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your main question: is this safe? Well, you are risking a variety of kickback situations, especially at higher speeds. I'd wear a full faceshield and stand well away from the line that the tangent to the cutters makes with the material. And, as I mention earlier, take light passes. Remember that the primary job of any router or jointer is to remove the meat from the unwary operator. Make sure you use feather boards and so on to keep yourself safe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bet you could even rig up a jointing or routing jig to make things safer. Since you are doing large numbers of these, a jig might save you time in the long run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-12-03T14:58:53.980" LastActivityDate="2019-12-03T14:58:53.980" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10132" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-04T11:24:47.567" Score="9" ViewCount="3222" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have replaced the cutting iron on a Stanley #4 hand plane (&lt;em&gt;edit:&#xA; because the old one was kaputt, not by vanity&lt;/em&gt;). The replacement blade I got from LV is thicker, at 3.8mm vs the 2.0mm of the old one. The mouth is now too small to allow the new blade to protrude. I measured the current mouth opening in the sole to be 5mm. I am reusing the original chipbreaker, screw, and lever cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To enlarge the mouth, it looks like I can file either the front edge, or the rear edge. Is there a right or wrong edge to file?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plane has a moveable frog (only via the two top screws in the frog, this model has no rear adjuster screw), but it offers only a very narrow range of useful positions. When it's backed out by any more than 1mm from its most forward position, the base casting starts interfering with the mating of the blade against the flat surface of the frog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That gives this frog a total range of front-back adjustment of about 1mm, if I understand correctly. When I set the frog as far back as allowed (ensuring that the blade mates well with the frog), I can't lower the cutting iron past the mouth -- the cutting edge of the blade bumps against the fore edge of the mouth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/La7mD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/La7mD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;frog backed up&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Frog backed up completely. I don't understand how this position would be useful in any way and I question the design. There is about 2.5mm of material I could file before the black rib between the two legs of the frog would start interfering with the blade.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nyx9v.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nyx9v.png&quot; alt=&quot;frog pushed in&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Frog pushed in completely. The frog barely clears the base casting of the mouth on the rear edge. If I remove the washers under the screws, I can nudge it by another 1mm forward.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yim5a.jpg&quot; width=&quot;400&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;sup&gt;The blade hits the sole before clearing the mouth. In this image, the frog is set as far back as possible, without the base casting interfering with the mating of the blade against the frog.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;References:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rob Cosman, in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OwEseXH8yzU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Filing the Mouth of a Plane&quot;&lt;/a&gt; shows how to file the fore edge of the mouth without mentioning the back edge.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Christopher Schwarz, in the book Handplane Essentials (in chapter Metal Bodied Jack Planes), writes that you want to be able to configure a mouth opening to be 1/16&quot; (~1.6mm) for general work, or smaller (for finer work). He describes also that the black rib between the legs of the frog can be filed if necessary, but doesn't describe a strategy for filing the edges of the mouth.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2019-12-04T23:35:32.870" LastActivityDate="2019-12-05T21:09:30.863" Title="Which edge of the plane's mouth should I file if I want to open it up?" Tags="|hand-planing|restoration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10133" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10136" CreationDate="2019-12-04T13:53:03.667" Score="2" ViewCount="156" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the process of building a wooden bed frame, based on a historical original. (It is the viking age Gokstad bed, for those who are interested)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some very nice beech wood planks which I'm using. Now, for the legs of the bed I'm planning to glue three pieces of wood together to create those thicker posts. Every leg will end up having three holes to hold the side boards. Two holes going in one direction, and then one hole in between those but perpendicular to the first two holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking that I could just leave room for some of the holes while gluing the planks. Now, I am a little unsure about which holes I could best create while gluing since the legs still need to be sturdy enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've created an illustration to better show what I mean.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nkTrY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nkTrY.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second option seems to be the easiest since I would then only need to make one additional hole, but I'm afraid it might not be sturdy enough and it would be best to go for the first option, even though it will be a lot more work to create the additional holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, in the middle of the leg the holes will connect, so you will be able to connect to the second and third hole from the first. This way, the side board will also be supporting each others weight instead of just the legs supporting the side boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, could I go with the second option and just glue in two of the holes or would this seriously impact the sturdiness of the legs/bed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Moderator Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; *('Graphis supports Monica' added a comment with a link to a photo that illustrates the general character of the bed post connection described in this question. I have attached the photo below so that it will not be lost.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/55w9h.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/55w9h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8031" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2019-12-04T21:28:14.297" LastActivityDate="2019-12-04T21:28:14.297" Title="How best to glue posts with openings?" Tags="|glue|holes|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10132" CreationDate="2019-12-04T14:48:30.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Intuitively I would choose to file the fore edge of the mouth, for two reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The angle is not critical. The rear edge matches the bedding angle of the frog, whereas the fore edge is just perpendicular (edit: as Graphus points out in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/10135/5266&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;, the fore edge angle may also matter).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filing the fore edge means the frog adjustment doesn't need to change.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind I'm no expert in modifying hand planes and I haven't ever tried modifying a plane to fit a thicker blade before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5266" LastEditorUserId="5266" LastEditDate="2019-12-04T16:50:21.600" LastActivityDate="2019-12-04T16:50:21.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10132" CreationDate="2019-12-04T15:56:12.367" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The front exclusively. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rear surface of the mouth represents part of a reference/registration surface that works in conjunction with the frog's face to support the iron assembly, and if it's in good condition and doesn't need remedial work it shouldn't be touched&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition the metal is generally thinner at the front than at the back (not even accounting for any frog-alignment lugs) so the filing will go faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L3IuH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L3IuH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Filing plane mouth&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Note the angle the plane is held in the vice in the left image. Having this surface you're filing angle forwards is not always necessary, but can be, so it's best not to file it square to the sole just in case.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How carefully do you have to file?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Depending on what sources you believe, who you listen to or trust, the mouth's front surface plays a vital role, a significant role or is of no real consequence to the performance of the plane. So, uh, somewhat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously you wouldn't deliberately file it out of square but your best effort is really all that's needed in a lot of cases (as shown by planes that don't have perfectly square or parallel mouths which work well for their users). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way to end up with the mouth straight and square is to have a line to file to and arguably the best way to do this is to colour the area with a marker or layout fluid and then, using a square held against the plane's cheek, lightly scribe with a scriber, the point of a knife or just a sewing needle. This will show as a bright silver line against the marker ink or layout fluid which is relatively easy to see in different lighting and can't be erased when you brush or wipe away filings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Christopher Schwarz, in the book Handplane Essentials (in chapter Metal Bodied Jack Planes), writes that you want to be able to configure a mouth opening to be 1/16&quot; (~1.6mm) for general work, or smaller (for finer work). He describes also that the black rib between the legs of the frog can be filed if necessary, but doesn't describe a strategy for filing the edges of the mouth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worth mentioning here that Schwarz has gone back and forth over the years on the question of using mouth size as an important or necessary aspect of plane use — in concert with &lt;em&gt;or instead of&lt;/em&gt; using the cap iron/chipbreaker — so his views at the time of writing this book may not jibe with what he believed, and wrote about, a few years previously..... and won't necessarily reflect what he currently believes to be the case, and now writes about :-\&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to note that a great many much more seasoned woodworkers never adjust the frog on their planes&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. This includes numerous full-time professionals. Their frogs are generally set back to align their top surface with the angle of the back of the mouth, providing maximum support for the cutting iron&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;. So the mouths on their planes remain fixed, which lends support to the idea that the front edge of the mouth doesn't necessarily play much part in the performance of a plane. See more on where mouth size does and doesn't matter in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/7702/mouth-of-a-plane/7710#7710&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; The one exception to this is possibly to &lt;em&gt;slightly&lt;/em&gt; round over or chamfer its leading corner if it's very sharp, to help prevent damage over time as the plane's mouth runs over knots, particles of grit or grains of silica in the wood. This sharp edge can be found in planes straight from the factory as well as after a user has lapped the sole — aggressive lapping frequently leads to the front edge of the rear of the mouth ending up a virtual knife edge, which must be softened for safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Despite an adjustable frog being considered a vital design element in a plane that we're told everywhere to look out for!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Every adjustment of the frog to bring it forward of this position essentially means the tip of the iron assembly is hanging in space somewhat which can allow for some vibration, which could lead to chatter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-12-04T21:25:48.507" LastActivityDate="2019-12-04T21:25:48.507" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10133" CreationDate="2019-12-04T16:31:43.793" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I was thinking that I could just leave room for some of the holes while glueing the planks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a useful technique when glueing up posts in this manner and is actually relatively common these days. You essentially leave a mortise instead of chiselling it out afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The second option seems to be the easiest since I would then only need to make one additional hole, but I'm afraid it might not be sturdy enough&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will be fine. It's how I'd choose to do it if I were making something similar in this way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glue joints are literally stronger than the wood around them if done well (see a little on how to ensure that &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4151/what-do-i-need-to-do-to-prepare-wood-for-gluing/4159#4159&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) so there should be no worries about strength with this sort of assembly. Numerous modern workbench designs create mortises for the stretcher tenons by this method, and workbenches are subject to tons of strain in use. If this building method can withstand that it'll be fine for a bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Some assembly tips&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rather than go by measurement it's better to actually use the boards (or offcuts from them if available) as spacers during the glue-up. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Well wax the ends of the boards/offcuts so they won't be stuck in place by any glue squeeze-out inside the joint.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;These are large glue surfaces, make sure in advance you have enough glue! This will require more glue than you're probably thinking. And have a good method for spreading it on such a large surface.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Be prepared for the glue squeeze-out and have a method ready and practised for dealing with it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Also have all your clamps on hand ready to use, if necessary pre-adjusted for width so you're ready to clamp up as soon as you've finished applying your glue. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't be afraid to clamp &lt;em&gt;hard&lt;/em&gt;. You can't starve a joint by clamping too hard (this is actually impossible) and only by using firm clamp pressure do you achieve the strongest joints. Use scraps of wood, ply or hardboard to pad the clamps if necessary to prevent denting the beech.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-12-04T16:31:43.793" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10133" CreationDate="2019-12-04T17:16:29.193" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you ever considered a  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DY2pT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DY2pT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wedged Mortise and Tenon?&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of this information is coming from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/wedged-mortise-and-tenon/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Popular Woodworking Magazine.&lt;/a&gt; The only modification would be to the mortises you have planned, and you could choose to use a different piece of wood as an accent if desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make Mortise&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a chisel and an 87º angled support block (easy enough to create with reliable chop saw or desired jig) to &lt;em&gt;slightly&lt;/em&gt; taper the &lt;strong&gt;FACE&lt;/strong&gt; of the mortise (just in case, opposite of the tenon's shoulders) about 3/4 of the way down then joint.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flip to tenon shoulder side and finish squaring the joint if needed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Designing the joint can be varied based on your design. The nutshell version of the site is: Make sure the taper is between 3º-8º (the wider the angle the stronger join will be). Be careful that you don't make it so wide it splits when you insert your wedges.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut your tenon.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw a center line on the tenon (shoulder side) where the taper goes from 87º to 90º. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using a drill bit (preferably in a drill press - but just perpendicular to the tenon) , on the tenon's shoulder side and near-ish to the edge of the tenon - drill straight through the tennon. &lt;em&gt;The recommend making a test piece to practice with the flex of your wood and wedges. Image below for clarification.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using a thin kerf blade, saw on the medial side of the drill hole make a perpendicular cut from the through side of the tenon down to your hole. This creates the space for your wedge and allows the joint to flex more freely without risk of splitting. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make extra long wedges that meet your needs. &lt;em&gt;Article recommends 1/8&quot;-1/4&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Test fit joint and wedges. The shoulder side should be tight and flush. Until you place wedges the face side should have a slight gap. &lt;em&gt;Just in case... tap in both wedges evenly. Not one then the other.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should there be any excess proud of the face, you can carefully remove the wood to flush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r5y0W.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r5y0W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Drill holes for flexibility&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3711" LastEditorUserId="3711" LastEditDate="2019-12-04T17:22:52.200" LastActivityDate="2019-12-04T17:22:52.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10120" CreationDate="2019-12-04T21:53:01.050" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, so I ended up gluing felt-backed flexible birch veneer with PL Premium, the 3X stuff. I also had a tube of 8X, but I could barely manage to get it out of the tube, forget spreading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Takes a lot of adhesive -- surface area slightly smaller than two standard risers took more than 2 tubes of PL, so have a few extra on hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;V-notch tile trowel works great, plastic adhesive trowel would have had too-small notches.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PL sticks to vertical surfaces very well and doesn't seem to run.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a lot of painter's tape, and cover decorative side of the veneer completely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Veneer will mostly stick to the surface, but some support is needed, or it could peel off under its own natural tension.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have lots of paper towels on hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't roll it out like contact cement, this will push out too much adhesive and telegraph all surface defects, a flat board at moderate pressure should work fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bubbles (I got a few after applying water based polyurethane a day after) can be pressed down and clamped a day after application (depending on humidity/temp/surface permeability affecting curing speed I guess) -- I left it clamped for another day and they were gone.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PL will expand slightly and ooze from the sides a bit while curing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I clamped the flat side using 2 1x4s brad-nailed boards on the sides and some staples through a piece of plywood at one edge of the curved surface. A melamine board would do better here.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall this worked out nicely, much easier to work with than contact cement in this configuration. I got a few bubbles, and I rolled out too hard, so got some depressions manifesting that I could have avoided. But overall it feels solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2633" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-12-05T09:06:26.833" LastActivityDate="2019-12-05T09:06:26.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10139" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-04T21:53:04.353" Score="1" ViewCount="309" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plywood will always have some variation in thickness. So woodworkers will usually overcome that by making not only rabbets/dadoes, but also tongues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when you're working with slotted plywood, such as the shelving in the image below, how can I deal with that? For long shelves, a single piece may have thinner and thicker sections, so different columns would have to have different slot widths. This seems a lot of work, even for someone working with CNC (which is not my case).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And coming to a subject that to me feels a lot like an urban legend: is it really a no-no to run plywood thru the thickness planer? If I am only removing wood from the outer layers and the machine is not hitting any glue, my guess is that there shouldn't be a problem. But woodworkers in most forums I've searched will advise against that, so I guessed I'd better ask again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iSvq0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iSvq0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Edit: the picture comes from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/Slot-Joint-Adjustable-Bookshelves/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this tutorial&lt;/a&gt;, and it was built with a CNC and the author did state it was necessary to sand some of the slots to get a nice fit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5226" LastEditorUserId="5226" LastEditDate="2019-12-05T00:14:17.500" LastActivityDate="2019-12-05T00:14:17.500" Title="How to overcome plywood thickness variation when doing slot joinery" Tags="|plywood|thickness-planer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10140" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10141" CreationDate="2019-12-05T02:32:15.010" Score="-2" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I rough cut a lot of cedar and elm, and I have decided probably the first thing I can do to make furniture (for now) is to make benches.  I looked up a &quot;doweling jig&quot; but that's not what I'm referring to.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm thinking of is a &quot;female&quot; bit which you'd put onto a drill press and create the tapered &quot;male&quot; part that would go into the body of say a stool seat.  There may be a corresponding &quot;male&quot; bit that makes the hole in the bottom of the stool seat.  And there would be multiple sizes (legs into stool bottom, and also cross pieces into the legs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the correct term for these two tools, and any advice on using them?  I'm going to want a fairly large pair for making sturdy table legs from cedar or rough-cut hardwood.  Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-- UPDATE --&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do see a tool on Northern Tools called Lumberjack Tenon Kit, which is the basic concept, but I guess I've always assumed there was a taper on the actual shaft.  Still looking for the term that would be for more of a hardwood table or stool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8036" LastEditorUserId="8036" LastEditDate="2019-12-05T14:14:27.510" LastActivityDate="2019-12-05T14:14:27.510" Title="What is the correct term for a tool which makes the slightly tapered male part on a stool or table leg?" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10140" CreationDate="2019-12-05T08:37:53.360" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, the end of a round leg isn't always tapered. Instead some are just round tenons, which are usually (but I don't think always) then wedged. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea behind a tapered tenon in chairmaking is that it helps prevent the leg working loose over time – remember, they used to build for the ages – as it's always trying to work its way tighter into the tapered fit of the hole if the wood compresses over the years as pressure is put on the seat. A wedged tenon seeks to achieve the same end by another means, by compressing the wood at the end so well it just can't work loose over time&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, to make a tapered hole the usual tool to do this is a &lt;strong&gt;reamer&lt;/strong&gt; of some sort, which is used after a straight hole is drilled to turn it into a tapered hole. Chairmakers often made their own reamers in the past, and some still do, but they are made commercially. There isn't just one way to do the corresponding part on a leg, it can be formed freehand by drawbore/spokeshave work, even using a rasp or file or just by sanding. But there are commercial and user-made tools for forming these accurately and repeatedly, and to reduce the drudgery. Now you know the end of a leg is a type of tenon it makes it easy to find one type of tool for this work, they're simply called &lt;strong&gt;tapered round tenon cutters&lt;/strong&gt;. These commercial tools are matched to work as pairs since obviously they need to have the same taper and work with the same diameter(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you should try a basic round tenon first though. Apart from wedged through-tenons being a potential plus on the looks front (using wedges of a contrasting wood), there's another reason to prefer these — you don't need to buy any specialist tools. You can form the round tenon by numerous means using existing or non-specialist tools, and the simple round holes of course only need a suitable size of drill bit&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; to chuck into your power drill or brace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Along with the glue naturally, although you can wedge a tenon and use no glue and end up with a very strong and long-lasting construction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Usually an auger or flat bit/spade bit would be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-12-05T08:37:53.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10142" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10143" CreationDate="2019-12-05T14:49:27.207" Score="1" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am considering building a table for a meat grinder out of wood and then covering it in something to make it last longer. The basic idea is that the grinder would sit on a higher section and then there would be a lower section where I could set a lug for the meat to fall into. The problem is I want to make sure that it is easy to clean such that blood and water don't ruin the wood. I was thinking about getting sheet metal and screwing it to the faces, but was curious if there was a better way to protect the table. This will only be used a few months out of the year, but needs to hold up. I have also thought of putting several coats of outdoor polyurethane, but I am not sure how that would hold up to being hosed off over time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8039" LastActivityDate="2019-12-05T18:45:13.057" Title="Meat Grinder Table Design" Tags="|design|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10142" CreationDate="2019-12-05T18:45:13.057" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is &quot;Butcher Block&quot; type of finish (a kind of food safe mineral oil I think). It is used for cutting boards and the like. I also use it to coat wooden utensils, they hold up well in dishwasher too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be reapplied occasionally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if it is rated for outdoor applications though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2633" LastActivityDate="2019-12-05T18:45:13.057" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10145" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10146" CreationDate="2019-12-07T01:14:20.703" Score="-1" ViewCount="157" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 5HP vacuum that is connected to a Ridgid 3650 table saw. It seems that it is not perfect and sawdust is still present on the floor even after minor work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about buying a 3/4 portable dust collector and trying to see if this will improve the situation&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.busybeetools.com/products/craftex-mini-portable-dust-collector-3-4hp.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.busybeetools.com/products/craftex-mini-portable-dust-collector-3-4hp.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read various posts by others who tried this and the situation is not improving radically. The dust collector is on sale now so I would buy it as a permanent solution (I am using the vacuum for many other things) and if the noise is lower I would buy the dust collector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is a dust collector less noisy than a vacuum?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="497" LastEditorUserId="497" LastEditDate="2019-12-07T09:28:50.170" LastActivityDate="2019-12-07T09:28:50.170" Title="Is a wet/dry shop vacuum (5HP) noisier than a 3/4HP dust collector?" Tags="|dust-collection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10145" CreationDate="2019-12-07T03:29:31.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dust collectors are high cfm with lower negative pressure, where as a shop vac is lower cfm and higher negative pressure. Most of the large shop vacs have been more noisy or at least a more irritating sound then my small dust collector. That one appears to be the same as the one I have from Harbor Freight, it has worked well for the limited amount of use it has had. Draw back does not catch the very fine particles. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Do Not&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; use a small hose but rather use a 4&quot; hose with an adapter if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2019-12-07T03:29:31.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10147" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-07T03:35:41.903" Score="4" ViewCount="367" Body="&lt;p&gt;I came on &lt;a href=&quot;https://toolsforworkingwood.com/store/more/AU-Info.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The teeth on Auriou rasps are slightly angled to favor right-handed users. If you are left-handed, please contact us as we can order you left-handed rasp (although we do keep some in stock). The reason has to do with the proper use of a rasp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A rasp should be grasped by the handle in one hand. This is where the&#xA;  power behind the rasp comes from. The other hand should grasp the tip&#xA;  of the rasp in thumb and forefinger, to balance the pressure on the&#xA;  stroke and to give control. The teeth should be perpendicular to the&#xA;  direction of the stoke. Auriou rasps are handed, so you hold them at&#xA;  an angle to the work but push them perpendicularly to the work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand what they're saying.  My question is, how much does it matter?  If you're using such a rasp 'off-handed', is it noticeably less effective?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="484" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-12-09T07:10:59.177" LastActivityDate="2019-12-09T08:19:53.723" Title="Rasps: how much does handedness matter?" Tags="|hand-tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10148" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-08T16:13:55.437" Score="2" ViewCount="3023" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I use the other surgery cutting boards and how big should I make them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8044" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-12-08T18:00:27.220" LastActivityDate="2024-03-06T19:22:11.060" Title="Can I use douglas fir to make cutting boards and how thick should I make them?" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10148" CreationDate="2019-12-09T00:39:40.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes! Douglas fir makes &lt;em&gt;fantastic&lt;/em&gt; end-grain cutting boards with dramatic swirls. The thickness is really a personal preference depending on the finished size of the board. I would suggest making a 20x12 board 2&amp;quot; thick. I wouldn't suggest ever making an end-grain cutting board less than 1&amp;quot; thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do have a few suggestions if you're talking about using construction-grade lumber from the big-box store:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get 2x10s or 2x12s instead of 2x4s. These have far fewer defects and will make a nicer looking end piece.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dry the wood out in your oven at 215°F for 2-3 hours before you really start working with it. This will prevent the wood from possibly splitting at some future point.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8045" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2024-03-06T19:22:11.060" LastActivityDate="2024-03-06T19:22:11.060" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10147" CreationDate="2019-12-09T08:19:53.723" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I understand what they're saying. My question is, how much does it matter? If you're using such a rasp 'off-handed', is it noticeably less effective?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, conventional rasp teeth (in both hand-cut and machine-cut rasps) are like little pyramids of steel and cut most effectively when the flat front face is pushed straight into the workpiece. Working at an angle a certain amount of the blunt side of the tooth is presented to the wood, and the trailing cutting edge can't shear as effectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no need to buy an Auriou rasp to see this effect in action. With any conventional toothed rasp, including machine-made ones&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, just gauge the rate of material removal using the rasp in line with your strokes and when the rasp is at an angle to the stroke, say 15-25° (to the left or the right). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rasp should be noticeably slower when worked at an angle, but whether this speed difference is actually of any importance will be down to the individual user.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other thing worth noting is that you may also notice that the above leaves a smoother surface. As a result with coarser machine-cut rasps especially you might &lt;em&gt;deliberately&lt;/em&gt; use the rasp at an angle, to reduce the known tendency of such rasps to plough deep furrows in the work. So within reason&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; there's not just a single angle a rasp must be used at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Machine-cut rasps have teeth formed in a hydraulic press working at high speed and the teeth are both very uniform in size and in placement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; You wouldn't want to use a rasp at ≥45° to the stroke. Try it and you'll see why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-12-09T08:19:53.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10151" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-09T16:12:29.957" Score="0" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w3bix.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just starting to get my feet wet on this old table, sanded and stained it. The picture shows the defect I'm talking about and it was there before I started refinishing the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this something the person who made the table did by sanding too hard and if so would me sanding around it help any? Is there any way to make this look better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the picture of the whole table and the defect is at the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LSodu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8047" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T07:51:54.520" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T07:51:54.520" Title="Can this be fixed before poly?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10153" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-10T11:21:25.307" Score="4" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was planning to build a bedside cot for a newborn and I was looking for some safety standard to follow. All I could find were places where these are sold (like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bsigroup.com/en-GB/search-results/?q=716&amp;amp;standards=Standards&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.bsigroup.com/en-GB/search-results/?q=716&amp;amp;standards=Standards&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://standardsdevelopment.bsigroup.com/projects/2017-02678&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://standardsdevelopment.bsigroup.com/projects/2017-02678&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The prices are a bit too much for an hobby project and probably there is a lot more information inside than I actually need. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One piece of information I could find is this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.childsafetyeurope.org/publications/info/product-safety-guide.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.childsafetyeurope.org/publications/info/product-safety-guide.pdf&lt;/a&gt;, which mentions some measurement for safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if there is something simpler than the whole standard but more informative than the linked PDF for the hobbyist that won't sell but just build for himself. Also these are for the BS-EN-716 but I believe this has been updated in the 1031:2019.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: I am from the UK, but to be honest even a US regulation would be fine as I just want to make it safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7964" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T16:20:23.607" Title="Crib/cot construction safety norms" Tags="|safety|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10153" CreationDate="2019-12-10T16:12:54.240" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is some details I found that are relevant:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The slats and corner posts of a crib should be no more than 2 3/8&#xA;inches apart. Wider spacing poses an entrapment danger.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Corner posts should be flush with the end panels (or no more than&#xA;1/16 inches higher).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In a safe crib, the hardware — bolts, screws, and the like — should&#xA;be firmly secured, with no sharp edges or rough areas and no spots&#xA;that can pinch or otherwise injure your baby. The crib's&#xA;wood should be free of cracks or splits. (And the entire crib —&#xA;sides, slats, and all — should be very sturdy with tight joints.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For a natural nursery, stick to non-toxic paint with low or no&#xA;volatile organic compounds (VOCs). Any crib that has peeling or&#xA;cracked paint (even lead-free) should also be refinished.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the mattress fits snugly against the inside of the crib. To&#xA;ensure crib safety, try the two-finger test: If you can fit more than&#xA;two fingers — Mom's, not Dad's if he has big hands — between the&#xA;mattress and the crib, the mattress isn't a good fit. (The harder it&#xA;is for you to make the bed, the better for your baby.) Also, if the&#xA;mattress is new, pull off that plastic. Make sure, too, that the&#xA;mattress itself is firm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taken from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.chop.edu/primary-care/getting-ready-your-newborn-home&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.chop.edu/primary-care/getting-ready-your-newborn-home&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastEditorUserId="380" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T16:20:23.607" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T16:20:23.607" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10155" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-11T16:23:29.850" Score="2" ViewCount="171" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a while I've been looking for someone to restore the furniture in the picture. Without the caning, the cheapest I found was $350. They would take the furniture apart, sand and repaint, and then glue it back together to strengthen joinery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know nothing about restoring furniture, much less wood, but I'm thinking that at $350, I can at least try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my question, is restoring this bench something that I can, or should, do? I'm trying to be a DIY guy, but I'm really a beginner with any of this. I'm a technical guy, so my construction/DIY abilities are very limited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already have someone that can do the caning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CBgcd.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CBgcd.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2833" LastActivityDate="2020-05-04T19:18:24.533" Title="Difficulty level in restoring wood bench?" Tags="|wood|glue|wood-repair|paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10155" CreationDate="2019-12-11T18:55:53.397" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;This isn't very answerable, as suggested by the comments you are getting. But we can make some general statements about this project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, whatever you are doing right now: stop. Put the tools down and take a step back. Again, the comments are telling you that at least some of your assumptions are wrong. It is very rare that &quot;refinishing&quot; would require taking joinery apart. You should also set some limits and requirements. Are you refreshing the caning, or living with it? Do you want to change the colour or finish, or is this a refresh of the existing finish? In short, how far do you think you are going to go? Down to bare wood, or just freshen things up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is important because joinery, finishing, caning, etc. all take different skills at different times, each with their own tools and techniques.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only you can answer these questions, but you should keep in mind what your limit is, and as you assess this job adjust expectations accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say that you are not experienced, but that you grok technical stuff. Ok, let's work with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest going to a library and taking out a few books on refinishing wood furniture. Just get a feel for how this stuff is done, and the sorts of tools and techniques you will be expected to use. Pay attention to the order of operations this sort of small project requires, and where the critical steps are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, start building a list of stuff you need. Even modest refinishing will require quite a few different tools, consumables, and chemicals. But only when you know what you want to do will this list emerge. You should now have a decent idea of what steps have to be taken in some order to get the results you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, find a place where you can leave this stuff undisturbed while the project is active. Even modest refinishing can be quite messy, so you want a place to keep things contained. Pay attention to which of your supplies can and can't be stored in an unheated place, if you choose a place that can freeze occasionally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for specifics, come back here with those specific questions as you progress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-05-04T19:18:24.533" LastActivityDate="2020-05-04T19:18:24.533" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10157" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-13T12:29:37.577" Score="0" ViewCount="3490" Body="&lt;p&gt;In some cases I would like to put a &quot;draft&quot; on a board, which means to have its surfaces not be parallel, but be at some specific small angle. For example, the illustration below shows what a board with a 3-degree draft looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tqnJU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tqnJU.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a standard way to put a board in a sled or fixture of some type, so it can be planed at a slope like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2019-12-13T18:01:32.803" Title="Is there a standard way to plane a board at an angle?" Tags="|thickness-planer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10157" CreationDate="2019-12-13T15:34:36.750" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;[I see that you have tagged this with the thickness-planer tag, so this answer probably does not apply because it refers to hand-planing. I'm leaving it here for posterity I guess.]&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one technique I'm aware of (and have actually used!) that does not require special tools or jigs is to hand plane the board along its length in quarters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is to say, you apply some amount of strokes about a quarter of the way up the board, all the way across the width. Then do the same, but plane 1/2 the length. Then 3/4 of the length, then finally the whole board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This results in a wedge profile that you can tune appropriately. I suppose one could tune the &quot;quarters&quot; to some other value to get a different profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-12-13T15:41:18.920" LastActivityDate="2019-12-13T15:41:18.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10157" CreationDate="2019-12-13T18:01:32.803" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Joint one face first.  Then figure out how much thinner the small side should be and tape a shim that thick to the jointed face.  Run the board through the planer with the jointed/shimmed face down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the stock is thin enough that it might flex under the feed rollers add more (progressively smaller) shims along the length.  If the stock is still too thin to be safe then you could make an angled sled the same way and run the stock through on the sled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2019-12-13T18:01:32.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10161" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-15T01:06:21.770" Score="1" ViewCount="731" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a router template with a shape that I want to replicate on a piece of wood (it's some sort of oval) but it is a bit larger than I want it. I've never used a rabbet router bit but it seems that I could use one to replicate the shape while making it &lt;em&gt;bigger&lt;/em&gt;, right?. Now, if the size of the bearing was bigger than the size of the cutting part of the bit, it seems that it would make a whole with a similar shape but smaller. Does such router bit exist? if yes, how is it called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is there a better solution for what I'm trying to do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8020" LastActivityDate="2019-12-19T03:49:03.313" Title="How to use a router to replicate a shape but smaller?" Tags="|router|router-bit|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10161" CreationDate="2019-12-15T14:05:12.917" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this may be easier that trying to tweak existing tools to scale the work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first inclination would be to make a copy of the existing template on paper. Then you can use almost any multi-function printer to make a copy, but reduce it by some percentage. In a related manner, I suspect there is software you can use that will reduce a scanned PDF to a new size, which gets you the same result. (I've never used such software, though, and sizing real-world images with software is a bit of a black art.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you can use a tool like a pantograph to help you free-hand a new template drawing, just at a reduced size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, with your template drawing that matches the original, only reduced in all dimensions, you can fashion the new template as you wish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-12-19T03:49:03.313" LastActivityDate="2019-12-19T03:49:03.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4211" CreationDate="2019-12-15T18:19:00.443" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just freed up a long time stuck bit on my Craftsman 315.17310 1/4&quot; router by tapping just once on the side of the bit shank with a small brass hammer. I'd already tried many other options after I'd sheared off the e-clip and corresponding collet shoulder that are supposed to loosen the bit as you unscrew the collet nut and &quot;raise the collet&quot; out of it's taper (and thereby loosening the squeeze on the bit).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like I can still use the router after all I'll just have to use the brass hammer to pop the bit and collet out of the taper.  I also liberally put some nickle anti-seize on the collet male/female mating surfaces as well as the bore in the collet where the bit goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8060" LastActivityDate="2019-12-15T18:19:00.443" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10161" CreationDate="2019-12-16T15:51:40.563" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Graphus mentions using a bushing in his comment on the OP. If you rout around the &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; of the template, then a bushing will work to make your newly produced part smaller. If you rout around the &lt;em&gt;outside&lt;/em&gt; of the template then a bushing will only serve to make the new piece &lt;em&gt;larger&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have an &quot;outside&quot; template, you could use the router to create a new, &quot;inside&quot; template which will, by it's very nature, be larger than the original template. (Use the smallest diameter straight-cutting bit you can find to make this new template to minimize the enlargement.) Then find a large enough bushing to use your new, &quot;inside&quot; template to make the final piece of work the size you're after. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need a significant reduction such that you cannot find a large enough bushing to make the reduction in one pass, you could make a series of &quot;inside&quot; then &quot;outside&quot; templates, making each one smaller than before. When you're done, you'll have gone through a lot of plywood/hardboard/etc, but you'll have a nice set of templates that should work for just about any size you'd need in the future!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2019-12-16T15:51:40.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10165" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-16T19:12:17.777" Score="0" ViewCount="418" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Unifence handle is not staying down/engaged. It’s somehow to do with the handle/cam lever and/or thrust washer and/or…? If I hold itin position/down the fence locks tight in place as it should...no lateral movement.  But as soon as I let go of the handle, it drops away from thrust washer allowing fence to travel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It’s not the slide(s) assembly or the adjustment nuts…handle self-releases as soon as I let go of it no matter how tight or loose they are set. I think the problem has to do with the answer to the question: what keeps the handle down/locked in the first place?  Are either the cam or thrust washer considered &quot;wear&quot; or &quot;consumable&quot; items?  Is there something that helps create friction or &quot;stick&quot; that is supposed to between the cam and the washer that has worn away?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My hope is this is somehow a general, or regular, or known issue with a “tribal knowledge” fix. I am happy to take/post pics or a short vid of handle self-releasing if it would help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly, I’d replace the whole fence (not rail) assembly if I could, but kinda hard to find something I know would fit/work, i.e. an exact (where it matters) replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5706" LastActivityDate="2019-12-16T19:12:17.777" Title="Advice on my Delta Unifence?" Tags="|table-saw|fence|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10167" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-17T19:48:29.893" Score="0" ViewCount="2376" Body="&lt;p&gt;Earlier today, I posted a question about building a small table with pressure-treated wood. A few people chewed me out for using PT wood indoors, so I deleted it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So just now I called a lumber store for other options to PT wood, and he said that the next option (mahogany or cedar) were 5x the price of PT wood and out of my budget. But he said that if I followed the following steps, I could use pressure-treated lumber for my indoor table:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wash the lumber with a hose and use clorox. Let dry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sand the wood.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply a layer of polyurethane.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this make sense? He said that all the PT chemicals would be sealed due to the polyurethane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2833" LastEditorUserId="2833" LastEditDate="2019-12-17T23:39:56.970" LastActivityDate="2019-12-31T14:21:26.693" Title="Using PT lumber indoor if covered with polyurethane?" Tags="|wood|polyurethane|pressure-treated|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10168" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10179" CreationDate="2019-12-18T04:10:12.370" Score="1" ViewCount="447" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've built the wooden box below. The plans for it called for a thin liner with mitered corners that would hold its position within the surrounding walnut frame with a friction fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the liner I've made will work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EEggu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EEggu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Box image with loose pine liner&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;except that the pieces are a little loose and there are small gaps in the miters and vertical movement of the pieces after the lid has been opened and closed. EDIT: The miters show a gap of less than 1/32&quot; with repeated opening and closing of the lid and they won't collapse inward under any circumstance other than say a horseshoe being thrown into the box from eight feet away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it might be best to anchor the liner somehow. I thought, rather than gluing the liner in place with a yellow glue, it might be easier to just use some sort of silicone glue/sealant in strategic locations around the liner (between liner and walnut walls). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I firm up that liner but make it so it could be removed/replaced later if necessary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="853" LastEditorUserId="853" LastEditDate="2019-12-19T03:28:42.583" LastActivityDate="2019-12-20T06:45:48.417" Title="Securing Liner in Wooden Box" Tags="|miter-joint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10169" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-18T20:53:22.070" Score="-1" ViewCount="997" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building table tops made out of pine and will varnish them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will be for a public cafe, so Im wondering if there is any stuff I can use to protect the varnish from getting scratches with the usage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5947" LastActivityDate="2019-12-18T21:25:45.910" Title="How to protect table top from scratches?" Tags="|varnish|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2019-12-25T07:43:42.577" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10170" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-18T21:22:10.600" Score="2" ViewCount="1752" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a new bed for the missus for Christmas. She liked this bed from ikea:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/igxYQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/igxYQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;joining compound angled dowels with a dowel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is where the headboard connects to the legs. The legs/headboard piece are both 1.5 inches in diameter. I decided to join those two parts with a half inch dowel, about two inches long. That made it easier to attach the pieces (the compound angles were a nightmare). Are there any concerns that resting our backs against this headboard will sheer the headboard from the feet of the bed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is a concern, any ideas of how to reinforce it after they've already been joined together?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Btw, the bed is made of cherry (even though the image below shows maple). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-12-19T20:26:24.447" LastActivityDate="2019-12-19T20:26:24.447" Title="Is a single dowel strong enough to resist sheer forces on a bed frame?" Tags="|joinery|strength|dowel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10169" CreationDate="2019-12-18T21:25:45.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order of strength:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Epoxy will be strongest, but will look plasticky&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oil-based varnish (e.g., polyurethane) is probably second strongest, less plasticky&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water-based varnish&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lacquer/shellac are probably about equally strong. The benefit is that both are easy to repair. (Though you could repair oil or water varnishes with another coat). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oil finish (e.g., tung oil). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my table (4 kids), I will choose oil-based varnishes and probably reapply every few years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3" LastActivityDate="2019-12-18T21:25:45.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10170" CreationDate="2019-12-18T21:57:37.760" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think a dowel is going to handle the directional stress. If you look closely, I'm pretty sure the designers have used some sort of lap-joint, possibly reinforced with a metal fastener, and not a continuous piece of stock. You might be able to download the instructions for this bed and see how those parts intersect with other parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, the factory makes a piece of just over the total length of the leg and headboard using some sort of lap joint, which is then machined down to that profile. Ikea is really good at taking what is essentially scrap and turning it into dimensional pieces and panels. (As someone who has reused an entire Ikea baby room set and turned it into other stuff, it is amazing what you find &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; a ripped-down panel!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But to get two pieces to handle stress as if they were a single piece, you have to get long grain lined up with long grain. Dowels are ok for some sort of joinery, especially those where you are gluing up panels and want to use dowels for positioning, or to stiffen up a long glue line or a mitre. But they are rarely considered a significant part of the overall joint strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your purpose I don't see there being enough glue strength to keep that joint from turning into an unexpected and sudden hinge. And, to be clear, it is the glue that you want to depend on, not a 4-inch piece of crenelated softwood that you &lt;em&gt;hope&lt;/em&gt; has expanded properly into the hole surrounding it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, a lap-joint with dowels or splines &lt;em&gt;through&lt;/em&gt; the lap would be really strong, assuming your primary glue joint is made up of a fair amount (more than 2 inches, certainly) of long-grain faces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-12-18T22:10:49.663" LastActivityDate="2019-12-18T22:10:49.663" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10173" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-19T14:06:41.663" Score="0" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I found a great deal on 3&quot; x 12&quot; x 12' non-treated lumber (pine). I bought several pieces, but before using it for an indoor table, I want to add a termite-resistant treatment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I add the termite-resistant treatment, I'll add a coating of lacquer or add a staining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in the Caribbean and I &lt;strong&gt;DO NOT have a single termite in the house&lt;/strong&gt;. I want to make it termite-resistant because nobody knows what the future holds, and &lt;strong&gt;I want it to be termite-resistant.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question: what can I do to make this nom-treated wood termite-resistant?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2833" LastEditorUserId="2833" LastEditDate="2019-12-20T14:05:12.583" LastActivityDate="2019-12-24T15:13:36.197" Title="Termite treatment for non-treated lumber?" Tags="|finishing|wood|insects|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10173" CreationDate="2019-12-19T17:58:29.807" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could sandwich wood boards between two panes of glass, leaving some space for wood expansion. Seal the sides with glass, use 100% silicone on glass seams. Leave one short side covered by steel mesh door on piano hinge for air and access (you can use aluminium window screen), leave several centimeters of space before the wood starts. Darken bottom and side glass panes and build a removable cover for the top (red tinted glass might work as well). Drill a few holes from the top for watering, create a cavity in the wood below the holes to hold about a glass of water, so you don't have to refill as often. Build glass or metal mesh plugs to close the water holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look up thermal preferences of your local species and place the table in the house accordingly -- the goal is to encourage termites to build cavities near the top glass pane for easy viewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When ready to introduce the critters into their new home, catch as many workers as you can (50-200 or so), place them inside. Keep the wood moist. In about 6 month, one of the workers will turn herself into a queen and will start laying eggs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Identify your species, read up on its lifecycle and peculiarities and you will have lots of fun facts to entertain your guests with. Avoid using the table when not entertaining guests, undue vibrations will stress the critters out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2633" LastActivityDate="2019-12-19T17:58:29.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10109" CreationDate="2019-12-19T18:37:52.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We finally got the board back in hand. @GraphussupportsMonica's comments seem to ring true - this board is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;severely&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; water damaged. It feels like sandpaper, all the oil and wax has been ripped out of it, and it has numerous joint failures. So, alas, it was no match for a dishwasher. We feel.. foolish.. for agreeing to replace without inspecting first, but it is what it is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6093" LastActivityDate="2019-12-19T18:37:52.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10167" CreationDate="2019-12-19T18:52:36.913" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to answer this question as if the primary question is intended: &quot;is this a good way to treat pressure-treated lumber for indoor use&quot; in case anyone else stumbles across this Q&amp;amp;A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The answer is no.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Washing the lumber with water and bleach isn't going to do &lt;em&gt;anything&lt;/em&gt;. PT lumber has been soaked or sprayed with a mixture of chemicals and then subjected to hours or days inside a sealed, pressurized tank so that these chemicals are pushed deeper into the lumber. These chemicals are intended &lt;em&gt;not to wash off in water&lt;/em&gt; so washing the surface of the wood doesn't remove them. Using water with or without bleach will not remove these chemicals (to any significant degree) or otherwise make them inert or immediately safe, mostly because any surface treatment will never even touch the chemicals below the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pressure treated lumber has a much larger moisture content. It is heavy and wet and unsuitable for extended indoor use.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sanding wood almost always makes dust that is dangerous to breathe, but in this case you are making dust laden with anti-fungals and so on, and (as stated in the first bullet point) the chemicals are there even if you wash the surface of the lumber. Sanding just makes it nicely available to living creatures who are exposed to that dust.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Polyurethane does not seal in a manner that would keep this lumber from off-gassing for most of its life. Maybe epoxy style finishes, applied thickly so that the wood was literally surrounded in plastic might work. Well, for some definitions of the word &quot;work&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pressure-treated lumber is for use outside. Modern PT lumber is reasonably safe if exposure is kept to a reasonable level. But working with the lumber requires being strict with your cleanup and dust management. Letting PT lumber off-gas in your house is not &quot;reasonable&quot; exposure, no matter how modern it is. Even with modern PT lumber no one would &lt;em&gt;ever&lt;/em&gt; recommend indoor use, period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-12-31T14:21:26.693" LastActivityDate="2019-12-31T14:21:26.693" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10168" CreationDate="2019-12-20T06:45:48.417" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;New liners&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I think the correct approach to this problem is to make new liners. Possibly only two of the four pieces need to be re-done to get everything tight enough*.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now hiding mistakes &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; a standard part of woodworking :-) but so is remaking components that haven't come out quite right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as these are such simple pieces this shouldn't feel like too much work. If the thought of the wasted material is part of the resistance to the idea the existing ones don't have to be discarded — you could deliberately size your next box so these liners will be slightly oversize, so you can shoot them down to a tight fit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shimming&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you do want to try shimming as per the Comments I'll suggest a way that you might not have thought of. Use stout paper or thin card stock, cutting rectangles the full length and depth of the inside of the walnut box but narrower so that they lie below its lip. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A paper/card inner lining will effectively thicken the walls of the box, pushing the wooden liner material inwards in both directions and should easily take up the slack enough that the liners are good and tight like they should be. They'll also provide a shadow line between box and liner which you may find attractive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thickness of each piece of paper/card needs to be much less than 1/64&quot; (0.4mm) to take up slack of a thin 32nd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately this will probably cause the lid to be a slightly looser fit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For next time&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Make the box first so that you're taking measurements from the real thing, which may not be perfectly square. It's best not to go from the ideal dimensions given in a plan, or from calculations in your head based on the outer dimensions of the box plus twice the stock thickness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then cut your liner pieces slightly over-length and shoot &lt;em&gt;one at a time&lt;/em&gt; to a tight fit in the box by planing in a suitable shooting board. If you didn't size the current liner pieces by shooting this may account for any difficulty in getting the liners just right, methods using power tools are fraught with the risk of trimming just a smidge too much off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But regardless of the trimming method you use sneak up on a good fit — trim a bit, test fit, trim a bit, test fit etc. Remember we have multiple opportunities to shorten pieces that are too long but no opportunity to lengthen them once they're too short!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to note, longer liner pieces in particular may need to be flexed ever so slightly to get them in so they're a super-tight fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-12-20T06:45:48.417" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10173" CreationDate="2019-12-20T15:15:37.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You make indoor spaces ant and termite resistant by having an exterminator come into your house and, using the appropriate chemicals in the recommended manner on a recommended schedule, spray wood trim and installed furniture, and places where such pests have ingress to indoor spaces. The idea is to lay down a coating of chemicals where the pests walk or come into the house. In some places or under some circumstances this has to be done on a schedule, because such chemicals do not stay effective forever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never heard of needing to spray movable furniture, but I'm sure a local exterminator would be able to assist you with that decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In short, there is no indoor-safe treatment that you apply &lt;em&gt;under&lt;/em&gt; a finish that makes wood furniture pest-free, but mostly because one rarely needs to do this.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood is a natural product, and it will eventually rot or succumb to pest attacks under the right circumstances. If you protect it from too much damp &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; too much dry it will last a surprisingly long time. And insects generally do not attack preserved or finished wood. Insects are usually the next step in material that has already started to degrade because of exposure to the elements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To further take the Q&amp;amp;A off-topic, the real prevention you should be concentrating on is finding places where pests like termites might find entrance into your house! If they can't get from the ground to foundational structures (e.g., old boards leaning up against the house) you are probably ok. If you have a stone or concrete foundation then this is the best way to &quot;future proof&quot; against such pests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2019-12-24T15:13:36.197" LastActivityDate="2019-12-24T15:13:36.197" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6403" CreationDate="2019-12-20T17:03:08.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It occurs to me that the primary reason for most static build-up in tooling like this is the use of a dust extractor. The small particles of wood swirling against hoses (which are good electrical insulators) builds up localized static charges. When some of those build up enough potential they can find each-other and eventually arc through to the nearest lower potential area. This is often a human standing on the ground touching metal parts of the tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I mention in my comment, Festool has (AFAICT) built-in static dissipation built into their dust extraction systems. If you have modified that, or it is not quite connected properly, you can still get shocks. The issue here is that the &lt;em&gt;entire&lt;/em&gt; ducting system needs to have a way for the localized charges to bleed off. I'm not sure how the Festool system manages this, but some people have had success by encircling the ducts through their system with lower gauge copper or aluminum wire, all leading in a continuous circuit to some lower potential area (which we can call earth or ground, but really is just lower potential than the large air-plastic capacitor hanging from the ceiling).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is at least one well-known wood-working Youtube channel where this DIY static dissipation system is described.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like I said, many dust extraction systems already have this built-in, though having more than one path for these high potential areas to bleed off to lower potential areas that &lt;em&gt;are not the operators hands&lt;/em&gt; might be recommended in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After all, being surprised by shocks while operating spinning edged tools could be considered a safety issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2019-12-20T17:03:08.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10182" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-21T11:55:53.407" Score="4" ViewCount="4610" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering some 3/4 plywood for a project where a small portion of the edge will be visible. Hiding the edge with banding is one option but I'm wondering if there are simpler alternatives that might seal the edge and get it sufficiently flat for paint-grade work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibilities...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Sizing&quot; the edge with glue (if that's the right term)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Epoxy - probably no easier than edge banding&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Primer / paint - build up with sufficient coats?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Plaster or a hardening putty type material?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One potential benefit of one of these hypothetical alternatives would be that it would only have to be applied to a small portion of the edge. And absolutely ideally, could be applied as a finishing step just before painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have access to some nice furniture grade plywood so the plies are pretty tight without enormous gaps like you'd see in framing stuff. But I'd guess that trying to treat it like solid would and using many coats of paint might still leave pinholes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also concerned about movement with time messing up the edge. ie 10 years later will the plies start to show?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="763" LastActivityDate="2019-12-24T09:43:14.410" Title="Alternatives to edge banding for painted plywood?" Tags="|plywood|edge-banding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10183" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-21T12:41:03.493" Score="1" ViewCount="149" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bunch of doorways to make jambs and casing for. These are not going to have actual doors hung, just trimmed out. These are standard 2x4 framed walls with finished gypsum board surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there will be some irregularity in the wall thickness at these doorway openings and surface variations. What's a good guideline for what measurement to use for the jambs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Assume that the walls are as sanded flat as they're going to get.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Large: Use the maximum thickness from all the way around the opening. May have to caulk/fill between casing &amp;amp; walls.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Medium: Subtract the relief at the back of the casing from the max measurement&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Small: Use a measurement of minimal wall thickness, and caulk between the casing &amp;amp; jambs&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are just preliminary thoughts... other options welcome!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that caulk would be less noticeable in option 1 than 3. Option 2 probably requires caulking both sides of the casing. (Maybe that is inevitable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will be painted so the caulk or filler itself is not a problem in that sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="763" LastActivityDate="2019-12-24T01:26:17.223" Title="Procedure to measure for jamb width?" Tags="|measurement|door|trim|molding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10183" CreationDate="2019-12-22T01:54:52.427" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, cut a measuring jig from half-inch plywood. Make it U-shaped, 12 by 12 inches with a large notch to match the wall thickness. Use the jig to quickly scan each door opening. If the notch is cut medium, then you can gauge thin wall (jig fits loosely) and medium wall (jig just slides over.) A thicker wall will prevent the jig from sliding over. Then decide if you want every jamb the same exact width, or if you might fine-tune the widths for each opening. I would err on slightly larger than smaller widths. Then the casings would always be parallel to the wall surface. The slightly larger gap is easily caulked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is best to caulk both sides of each casing strip. Even when tiny, a black line aways shows, and paint is inconsistent for covering the gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5916" LastActivityDate="2019-12-22T01:54:52.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10186" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-23T03:44:21.670" Score="4" ViewCount="1184" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had two end-grain cutting boards that cupped about 1/16 inch after gluing. So one side is concave and the other side is convex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I let it sit, it stays the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I plane it flat, then it cups again to 1/16 inch and stays there. But now is thinner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried putting a wet towel on the 'in' side and then it flattens itself out in one day. But then it went back to cupped 1/16 inch again two days later. Any way to fix this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Editing to add images)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one I tried to wet, and it went flat, but then it went back to cupped&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FRFSo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FRFSo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pecan full picture&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the cupping in one direction&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lu3Hu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lu3Hu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pecan cupping 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here is going the other way. The other side is opposite, so it's cupping out instead of cupping in&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x63kc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x63kc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pecan cupping 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is another board that is cupping. This one is already oiled so I can't cut it and glue it again but you can see it as another example&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cesMt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cesMt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ash walnut&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here it is cupping long ways&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GJhuW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GJhuW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cupping 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is cupping short ways. Same as first board, the opposite side is cupped out instead of cupped in&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2IYFu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2IYFu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cupping 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After two weeks the cupping did continue to get worst. The cup grew in size to nearly 1/8&quot; and then stopped growing. I have waited for 2 months and the board has not cupped any more since then. Now I will flatten the board once again. I will report back in 1 to 2 weeks after this new flattening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5365" LastEditorUserId="5365" LastEditDate="2020-03-08T03:40:06.407" LastActivityDate="2020-03-08T03:40:06.407" Title="Possible to fix cupped end-grain cutting board?" Tags="|warp|end-grain|cutting-board|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10183" CreationDate="2019-12-24T01:26:17.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have installed frames in walls that even vary in width over the length of the jambs.  The trick I have used is to make the jambs too wide, dry assemble the jambs with a single nail to loosely hold the head and jambs together, and set them in place.  I then score a line on the jambs to match the contour of each wall edge over the perimeter of the opening.  I can then trim or plane the jambs to the exact width necessary.  The only problem I have found is if I trim the jambs with hardwood that is to thick to gently deflect to the contour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2019-12-24T01:26:17.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10182" CreationDate="2019-12-24T09:43:14.410" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Putting aside your long-term goal for this for the moment, there are indeed many ways you can prepare plywood edges for paint. And as you can imagine there's quite a bit of advice out there on this with various recommendations as a quick Google search will show. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One method that is fairly commonly repeated and seems to work very well from the pics I've seen is also one of the simplest, you just use spackle. Its soft consistency makes it easy to apply and spread, it dries quickly and it is expressly made to be easy to sand. Plus of course it takes paint well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm also concerned about movement with time messing up the edge. ie 10 years later will the plies start to show?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think any of the options you've listed, including edge banding&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, can be guaranteed not to have some issues after 10 years of service, particularly in any situation where the plywood needs to be cleaned on any sort of regular basis&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one alternative that I think you can be assured it will last the lifetime of the furniture is hardwood edging. There are various ways this can be done depending on the tools you have available, how strong you want the edging to be and whether you need it to add any stiffness&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;. Here are just a few of the many ways this can be done:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OeuMT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OeuMT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ply edging options&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you glue on hardwood not only will the wood be much thicker and more robust than conventional edge banding it'll be stuck in place with normal woodworking glue and you're in charge of how you clamp it home. So there's no reason it shouldn't last the lifetime of the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are specialist clamps made for edge clamping but there's no need for any of them. Here are a couple of simple options for clamping edging while the glue dries lifted from &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/782/is-wood-movement-an-issue-with-edge-banded-plywood/791#791&quot;&gt;a previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6bVgC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Edge clamping options&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use tape to provide the clamping force:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aeUm1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aeUm1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Taping edge banding&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; it's important with the above method to stretch the tape tight (longer strips than are shown in the right image help with this) and use plenty of strips if you want to provide sufficient pressure to ensure a decent glue bond, although it will likely never match what you can achieve using clamps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Iron-on edge banding is made from real wood and provides a quick, cheap way to hide the edge of plywood and other board materials, but the heat-activated glue is known to fail sometimes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Just wiping down furniture with a damp cloth, using plain water, can be surprisingly damaging over time! This is the chief cause of tabletops warping and contributes greatly to the degradation of the finish, no matter what it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; An important consideration for plywood shelves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-12-24T09:43:14.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5217" CreationDate="2019-12-26T16:55:50.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To me it looks like damage to the finish from sunlight.  Red oak seems to do this more often.  Not sure why.  Maybe sunlight interacts with the tannin's or the pits don't let the finish cure evenly across the surface.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, I've seen lots of old red oak furniture that has that wear pattern, and it's much faster to appear on items that have sunlight able to beat on them.  It is possible that using a grain filler before putting on a finishing coat could help prevent this from happening.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2019-12-26T16:55:50.893" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9978" CreationDate="2019-12-26T17:13:19.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect it has a lot to do with the kind of work people expect to do with band saw.  But the kind of cuts you are talking about, longer cuts on wide pieces, are definitely pretty easy to do on a table saw, it already has the 'table' and even a small contractors table saw can do a decent job.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if your problem is the cleanliness of the cut, I personally have trouble getting my bandsaw to come even close to my table saw cuts, the blade seems to like to wander, which I am more than willing to accept that as my poor technique.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I have found that when I want a 'perfect' edge on a rip cut, I will leave an extra 1/16&quot; from the table saw and then run it on the joiner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So while I don't think there is any technical reason to not have a big table around a bandsaw to make wide long cuts, I think it is more social conventions.  My personal experience, it has been harder to keep my bandsaw in perfect cutting order, even though the kerf is significantly smaller than a table saw blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2019-12-26T17:13:19.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10193" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10197" CreationDate="2019-12-27T18:18:07.643" Score="1" ViewCount="262" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on designing a table for my kitchen (no A/C for moisture control) and I'm not entirely sure what the best method for securing it would be, and if I should even bother accounting for expansion/contraction at the size of this table and the material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tabletop material would be &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/lumber-boards/hardwood-lumber-boards/mastercraft-reg-1x-20-aspen-board/1046315/building-materials/lumber-boards/hardwood-lumber-boards/mastercraft-reg-1x-20-aspen-board/1046319/p-1444422759185.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;something like this&lt;/a&gt; (at 1&quot;x20&quot;x4', and the frame/legs will be made out of cedar 2x4s. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I'm hesitant to go to something that would allow for expansion and contraction is my worry that it would allow the tabletop to move if bumped or when the table was moved, along with the added complexity and some limitations with tool availability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd love to hear about suggestions for the best course of action from all of you, and if you have other things I may want to take into account I'd love to hear them as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8083" LastEditorUserId="8085" LastEditDate="2019-12-31T21:47:30.767" LastActivityDate="2020-01-02T02:42:34.133" Title="Mounting method for tabletop" Tags="|tabletop|table-making|mounting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="884" CreationDate="2019-12-27T19:41:36.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drying is what you get with brine. The water dries, leaving the salt. It's still salt, just not wet now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Curing is what you get with epoxy.  The parts turn into something else entirely.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All paints do both. Curing is what makes them not wash away at the first exposure to their own thinner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They do not do both at the same rate.  That's why you can have very young paint that is dry but  vulnerable to physical damage.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2-part paints cure very definitely in a sensible time span (say, 28 days for a marine LPU). With 1-part paints, cure is more of a half-life/log graph stretching out years. I have 50 year old alkyd paints that have cured very completely, and they are as tough as an LPU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We care about drying for handling reasons. We care about curing for recoat-time, and also for when we can subject the item to the demands of service. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1-part paints are really doing the same thing as 2-part, they are &lt;strong&gt;polymerizing&lt;/strong&gt;  their molecules are joining hands to become longer molecules. That is stronger because now a threat must break molecules in two instead of just pushing them apart. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4368" LastActivityDate="2019-12-27T19:41:36.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10195" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-27T20:11:31.117" Score="0" ViewCount="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making T&amp;amp;G boards for a roof. Cost is a big consideration. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3&quot; wide (with tongue)  and I need 3000 lineal feet of it. It is for a roof that will ultimately be covered with EPDM rubber. The roof is curved and T&amp;amp;G is how it was done before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The boards will be nominal 9/16&quot; but I am happy to start at 11/16&quot;..This rips nicely from common 2x4s,, 6 boards out of a 2x10... but I'm wondering if that is really the most cost effective way of doing this. Should I be buying rough sawn lumber somewhere?  Ripping down old railroad ties? Any ideas at a cost efficient way to get that much raw material? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4368" LastActivityDate="2019-12-31T18:04:47.103" Title="Best way to source a lot of sub-1× lumber" Tags="|lumber|making-lumber|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10186" CreationDate="2019-12-27T21:49:06.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It can depend on WHY it's cupping.  if there is something in the wood, such as stresses that are being released, not much you can do.  It doesn't sound like it's a poor job gluing it up, (as in to much pressure on one edge so the glue job leaves it with an arc).  Especially since you planed it down after gluing it up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now there is one possibility which might be fixable, and that is moisture.  In this situation, it's possible that the wood wasn't completely dry, or the glue was very wet, as the board dries (unevenly) it will cup up from the edges, since there is more exposed surface area that way.  Now if it is a moisture issue, ideally, drying the whole board down to the same moisture content 'should' leave it flat again.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;using an oven can speed this up, but just turning the board over and leaving it 'dry' upside down should also let the other side to catch up on it's drying.  This is only a 'chance' but it is a fairly simple test that you can try before taking more drastic actions.  It also means that if the cutting board absorbs and releases moisture through the year, it will continue to flex and relax...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ETA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;when the board is laying on one side that side dries out slower.  kind of like a half an apple with the skin still on.  as the one side dries faster because of more exposure to air, it shrinks faster pulling the edges in and making it cup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HNui0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HNui0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2019-12-31T15:18:26.530" LastActivityDate="2019-12-31T15:18:26.530" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10193" CreationDate="2019-12-28T08:51:22.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm working on designing a table for my kitchen (no A/C for moisture control) and I'm not entirely sure what the best method for securing it would be, and if I should even bother accounting for expansion/contraction at the size of this table and the material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the simple answer to this among professional builders would be, the same method I always use. Within reasonable limits smaller or larger doesn't change how they approach attaching a solid-wood tabletop to an apron or other understructure, they do what they always do because it's the safest approach. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And 20&quot; is wide enough that you &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; have to give a thought to movement, unless the local conditions are unusually stable which you indicate they won't be. Even if you were using quarter-sawn material&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; it might be wise not to screw directly to the leg assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The reason I'm hesitant to go to something that would allow for expansion and contraction is my worry that it would allow the tabletop to move if bumped or when the table was moved&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well think about whether this seems to be a problem with all the tables where the top is attached that way. It's not, so it won't be on your table either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the most traditional tabletop fastening method, hardwood buttons, there's sufficient friction between the buttons (typically only four on a small table but could be as few as two) that the tabletop simply can't be moved by hand, or by a bump from a hip. If it could be the screws fastening the buttons aren't tightened!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it's the same story with any of the modern metal substitutes for buttons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;along with the added complexity and some limitations with tool availability&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be fair buttons aren't something everyone is set up to do easily. However, virtually any woodworker can make and install them with even the most basic hand tools&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, it just takes a bit longer. Make the buttons in a production line, drill/countersink the holes, do all the grooves or pockets one after another and you'd be done before you know it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With arguably &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/9865/table-top-attachment-with-aprons-on-only-two-sides/9870#9870&quot;&gt;the best of the metal substitutes for buttons&lt;/a&gt; tool availability pretty much stops being any issue as they are surface mounted, they simply screw in place&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Which has a much lower coefficient of expansion, roughly half for many species.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Saw, drill, chisels, hammer, marking tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; So at most you need a drill with a small bit (or a bradawl) for pilot holes and one screwdriver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2019-12-28T08:51:22.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10198" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10200" CreationDate="2019-12-29T16:38:38.380" Score="3" ViewCount="183" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a wide table. For this purpose I bought a larch tabletop with dimensions: 40 x 800 x 2000 millimetres (1.6&quot; x 31.5&quot; x 78.7&quot;). This tabletop according to my computations is about 50kg (110 lb) based on information I found that larch is about 700kg per 1m&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Previously I thought about buying some height-adjustable legs from Ikea and mounting them simply with screws. But recently I thought that for such a heavy tabletop it wouldn't be enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I searched online for some time and came up with this custom leg scheme (this is 1 pair of legs):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/npXKW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/npXKW.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the basic idea is to have 2 pairs of these leg assemblies and cut 4 corners from the tabletop for legs to fill them in. What I am not sure about is what dimensions for A, B, C, E should I use for whole construction to be sturdy (taking in account, that there will be weights on the table, ideally I want be comfortable with 2 80kg person sitting on the table). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I have some concerns about wiggles along the wide side. Maybe I should add some connection between the assemblies (along the wide side), though not in this solution because it will take place under the table or require extra work to make panels embedded into wooden tabletop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So can I use legs like this for such a tabletop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8088" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-01-29T13:41:32.637" LastActivityDate="2020-01-29T13:41:32.637" Title="Designing legs for large larch tabletop" Tags="|tabletop|table-making|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10199" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-29T21:11:41.513" Score="1" ViewCount="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a hobbyist.&#xA;I'm building a guitar cab.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my first touch of a table saw and first try and box joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of Q's:&#xA;1. I sanded the heck outta this thing but apparently not enough to get the leftover glue. I stained this and obviously it didn't stain over the glue. Bummer. So some parts of the cab have &quot;blemishes&quot;. Do I just need to sand MORE next time? How do I ensure a great stain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I cut the center hole out with a jigsaw and it's not perfect.  It's not bad but it's not perfect. How would I get a better result?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How do I get a REALLY nice glossy shine and protection on this? I used about 4 coats of spray polyurethane lacquer ... and while its an ok finish, I'm looking for a protective coating but also a really smooth and glossy finish.  How do I achieve that?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mWmC7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mWmC7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cab Pict 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uBUR1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uBUR1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cab Pict 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xDWtw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xDWtw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5938" LastActivityDate="2019-12-29T21:11:41.513" Title="Lacquer. Perfect Round Holes. Wood Glue. Etc" Tags="|finishing|staining|box-joint|jigsaw|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10198" CreationDate="2019-12-30T02:18:48.457" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A table may look simple, but there are some important points to keep in mind when designing one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wood expands and contracts across its width and depth, but not in its length as a result of seasonal humidity etc.  This means that if you notch the corners to accept the legs, while the width of the top will expand the legs will not because they are connected by the horizontal cross piece of your leg assembly. This will lead to a great deal of stress on the leg frames that could lead to big problems over the seasons. It would be better to build a table leg frame and fix the table top to the leg frame with wood buttons or metal table top anchors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The horizontal  brace on the leg frame is very necessary.  You will also need one that connects each side of each leg assembly to the other one creating a three dimensional frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The horizontal braces (aprons) must be connected to the legs securely to prevent the legs from racking due to moving the table or putting uneven loads on it. This is often accomplished by creating glued mortise and tenon joints.  There are other ways as well,but for a heavy table that people may sit on you want those connections to be very secure. (I would recommend at these aprons be at least 20mm x 80mm).  Remember that you must be able to sit with legs sliding under the aprons comfortably so take that into account in your design.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The legs should be at least 60x60mm which would be more than adequate for strength and thick enough to accommodate 20mm wide tenons centered on the leg.  Beyond that you may want them to be thicker or taper for purely aesthetic reasons.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend that you do a little research by looking closely at tables constructed by other woodworkers (not the ikea out of the box kind) and study how they have done it.  There are also a lot of related questions on this site that you can search for by a search subject or selecting specific tags such as tables and joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2019-12-30T02:18:48.457" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10201" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-30T23:07:56.383" Score="1" ViewCount="149" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been working on a fairly involved project as a Christmas gift for a friend for the past few weeks. I'm building a Dungeon Master's screen for use in Dungeons &amp;amp; Dragons games. I'm having a couple of issues due to my design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first issue is that when it came time to put together one of the panels on the screen, the one holding six drawers, I ran into issues because I realized that my measurements used up the exact width and height of the box containing them, and didn't leave any breathing room for the drawers to actually slide in and out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drawers CAN fit in the box, but it's a very tight fit, and I worry about the surrounding supports, which are only glued together, breaking off if I pull too hard to remove a drawer, let alone the fact that it would be extremely irritating to actually use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only solution I've been able to think of is to sand down the sides of the drawers enough to give the drawers some space so they won't be pressing right up against the walls. However, I don't have a belt sander or anything... I only have hand tools. I could BUY a cheap belt sander from Harbor Freight, but money is tight after the holidays and I want to avoid that if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been using sandpaper, a file, and a cheapo detailing plane to smooth out and remove some width from the sides, but it isn't doing much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second issue is that I made the poor decision to use 1/4&quot; plywood instead of 1/2&quot; plywood for everything, so now I can't figure out how to attach hinges to the sides of the panels so that they can be folded together, because 1/4&quot; is probably too thin to attach screws to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need the hinges for the three panels to fold together into a single box, some sort of handle for carrying the box, and then some sort of clasps or locks to bind it shut. Does anyone have any recommendations on how to handle this with the thickness of plywood I'm dealing with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6210" LastActivityDate="2020-04-21T00:05:35.563" Title="How to salvage a poorly designed project?" Tags="|design|plywood|sanding|screws|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10195" CreationDate="2019-12-31T17:55:39.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Best way&quot; is very dependent on several different things.  Your location is a big one, because that could put you very close or very far from a good source of the lumber needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kinds of tools do you have available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much are you willing to spend vs. how much time are you willing to work at it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me, my dad and I own a mill and he owns 280 acres of woodland.  So for us it's a matter of a couple days to cut down a few trees and mill them to our needs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not everyone knows someone with this kind of equipment, BUT there are lots of small business people who do have their own mill and are willing to cut lumber to your specifications.  Of course then you need to dry it, which you can either wait or pay to kiln dry it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course you can re-dimension it like you are talking, resawing 2x4's and such (Personally that would be my option of last resort for the quantity you are looking for)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of stores sell pine boards pretty cheap and the 1&quot; boards are really 3/4&quot; or 12/16&quot; and running them through a planer or even better a 4-sided planer for T&amp;amp;G might be the better option than cutting down 2x4's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I would first look for small lumber millers in your area and see what they might be willing to do for you, if nothing is nearby or reasonable, then check the cost of buying pine boards, I assume you already have a way to make them T&amp;amp;G since you would need to do that with resawn 2x4's.  You might even be able to buy 8&quot;x 1&quot; (7.25&quot; X 3/4&quot;) pine boards, you could rip them in half for 2 boards per. ( appears that 1x8's are a bit more expensive than 2x4's so cost would be higher, though less work)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise you can look for farm auctions and such where people are selling large piles of lumber for cheap.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2019-12-31T18:04:47.103" LastActivityDate="2019-12-31T18:04:47.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10203" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10211" CreationDate="2019-12-31T21:08:22.180" Score="1" ViewCount="1291" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a new planer and ran a board through it without properly leveling it first. This board now has minor planer snipe on each end. (No more than 1/8th or even 1/16th inch) I've since properly aligned/leveled the tables but I can't seem to remove the snipe from this board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to &quot;repair&quot; this board without simply cutting off each end? I stupidly ran a nice board through it and would like to salvage it for a project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8098" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-01-01T14:53:05.587" LastActivityDate="2020-01-03T16:47:27.990" Title="How to fix fix/repair a board that has minor planer snipe?" Tags="|wood-repair|thickness-planer|planer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10203" CreationDate="2019-12-31T23:24:22.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't built one for my planer (yet) but after posting a similar question here, I learned that one can construct a planer sled. A search returns far too many very useful links, especially many videos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sleds fall into a couple categories, but are based on a flat board onto which your work piece is placed. The aft end of the sled has a stop block at a lower height than your final thickness. Some of the designs I've seen include side guides on the sled that are held in place with countersunk screws and are at the height of the work piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key feature is that the sled extends forward of your work piece and creates a portion of wood onto which the planing blades will scoop/snipe, saving the work piece for the proper depth/level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the process of updating this answer, I found an &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2116/what-is-a-planer-sled-and-how-do-you-use-it&quot;&gt;SE post&lt;/a&gt; with a few photos. None of them show side rails and I'm unable to locate any using TheGoogle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think when the weather breaks, I'll have to build a couple different designs and see if I can get an anti-snipe model to work!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastEditorUserId="3985" LastEditDate="2020-01-01T22:21:22.090" LastActivityDate="2020-01-01T22:21:22.090" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10205" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-01T05:26:59.557" Score="2" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am into wood working field for for past few years only thing I am always wrong in assessing the quality of the plywood. I mostly get warping of my boards after the pasting of laminates. Can someone get me good tips for finding the good quality of the plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4613" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2020-01-15T21:25:36.267" LastActivityDate="2020-01-15T21:25:36.267" Title="How to assess the quality of a plywood" Tags="|plywood|warp|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10206" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-02T02:16:57.197" Score="1" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve got a river table I’m working on made out of MonkeyPod and black epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m sanding it and noticed that there are blotchy looking areas. (I’m calling them blotchy, I don’t know what they are.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No stain or wax has been applied to the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wet it before these photos so they’re more visible in the pictures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, are these supposed to be there? If not, how do I fix them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EJIsU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EJIsU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;picture 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rgduV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rgduV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;picture 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8100" LastActivityDate="2020-01-02T02:16:57.197" Title="Are these blotches supposed to be there? If not how do I remove them?" Tags="|sanding|tabletop|table-making|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10193" CreationDate="2020-01-02T02:42:34.133" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a photo of the underneath of a lamp table that I made.  It shows how the fasteners are used to fasten the table top to the legs framework while still allowing movement.  Take note of the groove cut into the rails which are positioned such that screwing the fastener applies pressure to keep the top attached firmly.  The top is Padauk and the base is Maple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WxMdP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WxMdP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1140" LastActivityDate="2020-01-02T02:42:34.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10208" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-02T03:18:21.890" Score="-1" ViewCount="379" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have difficulty getting mitered moldings to have a flush surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically they get nailed into the underlying structure of the house, so any uneveness, which there inevitably is, translates to the molding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making a picture frame sort of thing with a spline would be difficult because the moldings are very long, like 10 feet long, so it is difficult to spline one to another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2020-01-07T15:31:26.157" Title="How to get flush molding joints?" Tags="|miter-joint|molding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10203" CreationDate="2020-01-02T18:48:59.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;it's been my experience that unless you have a table that supports the lumber going through the planer (at more than half the length, maybe 2/3) and of course level, that you will get snipe without a little extra help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually pick up the ends both when starting a feed and near the end of the feeding, since the snipe occurs when the board is not supported by a roller both in front and behind the cutter heads.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to clean up snipe that has already made it into the wood, you have 2 options, 1 you say you prefer to avoid, which is to cut the ends off reducing the length.  The other is to reduce the thickness.  If it's really small and light, you might get away with a little sanding on the ends, or you can run it through the planer again at a smaller thickness.  Of course for using the planer to fix the issue, you need to make sure you don't repeat the same mistake. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2020-01-02T18:48:59.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10208" CreationDate="2020-01-02T19:24:48.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you're talking about flat molding mitered picture-frame style, like door casing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing you can do for these is to run a bead of thick CA glue along the end-grain to hold the two pieces in place relative to each other.  Spraying accelerator on the other piece will make them set up almost instantly but then you won't have time to readjust.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be ready to nail them up right after you do this, as the glue won't be strong enough to hold even a short run in place. It is just for alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2020-01-02T19:24:48.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10203" CreationDate="2020-01-03T00:43:54.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's funny that all of the answers have talked about how to prevent snipe, but nothing actually addressed your question of how to fix the board now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would glue &quot;rails&quot; onto both edges of your workpiece that are thicker and longer than the piece itself.  They will have to be long enough on both ends to absorb the snipe that you're getting, and the thickness should ideally be just thicker than the workpiece.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you only got the snipe on one side of the boards (i.e. one side was jointed then the other planed) you can leave the workpiece proud of the rails on the jointed side.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have snipe on both sides then ideally the rails should be parallel with the workpiece (i.e. the overhang is even all around.) to reduce the amount of material you'll lose by re-milling.  Then start by jointing the rails until they're flush with the board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you can plane the board.  The rails will have snipe, but the workpiece should not.  Once you've taken a pass that hits the entire surface of the board you can rip off the rails on the table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Although, if you've just got one board that's not too big I'd probably just hit it with a #7 or #8 hand plane.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another alternative that I just thought of is to &quot;gang&quot; the board up with scrap wood.  If your workpiece is narrow enough you can run a scrap board before it, then run your piece alongside the end of the scrap, then feed another piece of scrap in alongside the end of your workpiece.  This will have the same effect of putting the snipe on the scrap instead of your work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2020-01-03T16:47:27.990" LastActivityDate="2020-01-03T16:47:27.990" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10212" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-05T01:44:19.440" Score="0" ViewCount="293" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to make a simple, outdoor standing desk using minimal materials. My&#xA;intended use case is to carry my laptop, monitor, and keyboard (and their                                                                cords) outside once or twice a day and work for 1-2 hours at a time, then bring&#xA;those 3 things back inside. I'd like to keep my budget to $100 if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want the desk simple because I don't have much free time and the only tools I&#xA;have are a hammer, level, and a decent impact drill with a small bit set. I&#xA;want it outdoor because I spend almost no time outdoors and I need to change&#xA;that. I want it standing because it requires no chair and it's supposed to be&#xA;slightly better for you than sitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not having much woodworking experience, my first thought was to mount two&#xA;shelves onto a tree, the top shelf for my monitor and the bottom shelf for the&#xA;keyboard. It won't quite be that simple however because I would need to stand&#xA;about 3 feet away from the computer monitor, so making a 3-foot deep shelf for&#xA;the keyboard does not seem very simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what are your best ideas for a simple, outdoor standing desk?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel like I'm omitting some information so of course let me know if you need any more info from me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8107" LastActivityDate="2020-01-05T10:01:21.327" Title="Simple, Outdoor Standing Desk?" Tags="|outdoor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10212" CreationDate="2020-01-05T10:01:21.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this is really too broad to get a proper Answer here but I'll try to give you some guidance to help you proceed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a big proponent of not reinventing the wheel and when it comes to standing desks, having been flavour of the month in certain circles in recent years, there is a lot available to draw from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can start with a plan or build-a-long online or in a woodworking book. An alternative is to approximately copy an existing standing desk of simple design and build that you see for sale, by measuring key dimensions and taking lots of photos from every angle, and going from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...the only tools I have are a hammer, level, and a decent impact drill with a small bit set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid this is not enough to do basic woodwork&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You really have to have some facility to cut wood and even &lt;em&gt;if&lt;/em&gt; you could buy all your wood cut to size (which often means said materials come at a premium&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;) you'd have no ability to make any adjustments that might be needed, alter something to suit an emergent situation or just to change your mind about an aspect of the design that comes to you during the building process..... or later after you've used the desk for the while and you have 'some notes' on the design ^_^&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general for basic woodworking you need some of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At least one saw. I can't be more specific as the type of saw, whether it's manual or powered is very much up to individual preference and budget and what you're intending to cut. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Some measuring/layout tools. The most critical is a square of some type, as almost every piece of anything needs to be checked for square or marked for square, often multiple times. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Some marking tools. This is the simplest requirement as you don't need anything more sophisticated than a ballpoint and/or sharp pencil and a sharp knife for adequate marking out. &lt;em&gt;Any&lt;/em&gt; sharp knife will do really, but if you need to buy something a basic utility knife or box cutter is fine and will have the most onwards utility&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A few sanding supplies. At the most basic a pack of sandpaper and a sanding block. Good abrasive paper is generally worth it but you'll find it's more expensive than you're expecting. You can make a sanding block from just a cutoff of softwood, but various styles of sanding block (some of them plastic with metal clips to hold strips of paper torn from full sheets) are available to buy if that takes your fancy.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further for this project specifically you may need some finish for the wood/wood products you end up using. Even if rated for exterior use the materials may benefit from having a little finish applied, e.g. to improve the way the surface ages with exposure to weather&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't really give a good estimate of what these would cost because of all the variables, but even buying as cheaply as possible this &lt;strong&gt;is&lt;/strong&gt; going to blow your budget, and you having even bought any wood or board materials yet. So some adjustment will be needed there unless you can source materials for cheap, or for free — from furniture left on the curb on trash day, at yard sales, castoffs or damaged pieces from building sites. And of course from the ubiquitous source of free wood, pallets. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/335/recycling-pre-loved-lumber-techniques&quot;&gt;Recycling &amp;quot;pre-loved&amp;quot; lumber -- techniques?&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/342/what-do-i-need-to-know-when-looking-at-pallets-for-wood&quot;&gt;What do I need to know when looking at pallets for wood?&lt;/a&gt; for a bit more on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Old training manuals and beginner woodworking guides give an idea of what you might need to build the simplest starter projects and this will often include two saws, at least one hand plane and some or all of the measuring, layout and marking tools I've gone on to list, as well as a drill or drills and a range of bits. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd forgotten about these previous Questions until now, some more on what's needed to get started in the following:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4931/beginners-toolset&quot;&gt;Beginner&amp;#39;s Toolset&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/6061/what-is-a-good-starter-traditional-hand-tool-set&quot;&gt;What is a good starter traditional hand-tool set&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1102/what-is-the-best-way-to-get-started-with-limited-funds-and-space&quot;&gt;What is the best way to get started with limited funds and space?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Not because of a cutting charge (a few cuts are often free) but because the type of place that will offer this service is often more expensive to begin with. And this is for board materials only, few (if any) places will cut 1x or 2x material for buyers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Rather than a dedicated woodworking marking knife, which work great but are really only for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt; Assuming the desk is left permanently outdoors. I would suggest making something that can be taken indoors, if necessary by being a knockdown (often shortened to KD) design so that it can quickly be taken apart and moved as major subassemblies, at least to take the working surface(s) inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-01-05T10:01:21.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10214" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-05T13:15:04.520" Score="0" ViewCount="2214" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am quite  a beginner as far as diy is concerned and I'm in the process of refurbishing the old wooden stairs in our new house. Never done that before. It was carpeted so I removed it and there were several layers of paint underneath, and I removed that too, now I am sanding the treads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next step would be to stain the treads with a dark colour (to contrast with our flooring which is a clearer colour).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My issue is that being old stairs they have black &quot;dots&quot; and sanding does not seem to remove them, they are not superficial, they have a bit of depth to them, see pictures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5lH4N.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5lH4N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R89mk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R89mk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to know if it is OK to leave them as they are, given that we want to stain with a dark colour. Or is it bad practice and they have to somehow be &quot;cleaned&quot;, if so, how?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On an aesthetic view, would leaving them look nice and authentic/rustic, or would it look like amateurish work? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I will need to use a stainable filler to mask the nail holes, will the filler be good enough to mask these black &quot;dots&quot; too? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8109" LastActivityDate="2020-02-09T19:01:40.137" Title="Black &quot;dots&quot; on wooden stair treads, can't sand them away" Tags="|staining|sanding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10208" CreationDate="2020-01-06T18:30:26.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Casing, moulding, and trim can hide many sins, but as you have found out it cannot easily hide large problems with the underlying rough carpentry. This is especially so with problems related to nailing edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Installing trim is a bit of an art, especially since much of it is installed by someone other than the person who built the framing, or hung the door or window.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure there are decent matching nailing edges, especially at the corners. A level or straightedge can be used to check for this, and then any necessary shims are installed prior, or in combination with, the trim.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Good trim requires a good amount of dry-fitting. Most trim can be tested for dip and sag with modest pressure (unless you live in an older home where sometimes it feels like they installed load-bearing trim). Either shim or provide a more stable nailing surface if things aren't lining up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trim is always an approximation of &quot;true&quot;. It is an imperfect world, and trim is there to hide imperfections and provide easier to repair wearing surfaces. Getting mitres to meet nicely on 3 axes is probably why many modest houses have butt-joined trim!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-01-07T15:31:26.157" LastActivityDate="2020-01-07T15:31:26.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10218" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10220" CreationDate="2020-01-07T09:13:52.183" Score="2" ViewCount="1268" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to this forum so please bear with me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My wife wants a &quot;retro&quot; shelf in the kitchen and wants it as figure B on the image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a difference in &quot;strength&quot; (i.e., able to hold more or less weight) between figure A or B.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/InnY3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/InnY3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shelf B will have on the bottom the same flange as it will have on the top (and wall) which will be connected with 3 strong 5mm bolts through the shelf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;edit: this is the idea but with 3 instead of 2 flange sets&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y43vO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y43vO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8116" LastEditorUserId="8116" LastEditDate="2020-01-08T06:30:50.753" LastActivityDate="2020-01-08T16:40:49.713" Title="Which shelf holds the most weight" Tags="|strength|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10218" CreationDate="2020-01-07T09:37:38.597" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shelf B has a failure mode not available to Shelf A; specifically, the joint between the brackets and the shelf is in tension, so it can separate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if both shelves fail because the brackets pull out of the wall or the shelf breaks then this failure mode is irrelevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two ways round this failure mode.  One solution is to use enough screws from the bracket into the shelf that the construct will support the maximum load that is likely to be applied (that will be difficult if the shelf is chipboard).  The other is to have a metal bearer under the shelf and bolt through the shelf into the bracket (with large enough bolts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In conclusion: There is no fundamental reason that you should not be able to provide a shelf of adequate strength of the design required by SWMBO (and if my experience is anything to go by, any additional hassle will be &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; less than that involved in changing the design).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1646" LastActivityDate="2020-01-07T09:37:38.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10218" CreationDate="2020-01-07T17:12:45.473" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If this is going into drywall the weakest point is probably the attachment of the wall flange to the wall.  With regards to this joint design B is substantially better than design A, since in A the shelf can pivot out from the wall and apply a tension force to the anchors (i.e. pulling them out).  In design B the shelf will be against the wall and the force on the anchors will mainly be in shear (i.e. pulling them down), where they are stronger (unless the load on the shelf is significantly uneven biased towards the front).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if this is attached to the structure of the building I still think I would prefer design B, as you could get compression of the drywall over time with design A, leading to a wobbly shelf tilting out from the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is attached to masonry or concrete with appropriate anchors I think either design is more than strong enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2020-01-08T16:40:49.713" LastActivityDate="2020-01-08T16:40:49.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10218" CreationDate="2020-01-07T17:32:54.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If we ignore or fix the bracket-shelf joint failure Martin Bonner mentioned and assume that the shelf touches the wall, but is not attached to it in either case, I expect design B to put lower forces on the wall joint. This maters if you screw it into drywall with no studs behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case of A, weight placed on the edge of the shelf pulls shelf away from the wall and strains bracket-wall joint. In case of B, weight on the edge pushes shelf into the wall, partially distributing the force horizontally, so a heavier weight is needed to pull screws out of drywall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2633" LastActivityDate="2020-01-07T17:32:54.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10222" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-07T22:01:58.033" Score="0" ViewCount="1342" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried using wood cleaner and ring away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But honestly the stains (I think by water) have got worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HaGWQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HaGWQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Od2tD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Od2tD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rmKHz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rmKHz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I get rid of them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8120" LastActivityDate="2020-01-08T22:22:22.600" Title="Fix parts of wood where polish has faded" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10222" CreationDate="2020-01-08T00:35:26.563" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thing with finishing is for it to look good you really want it in one coat and without knowing what finish is already applied I would recommend refinishing the top completely. You could just patch it with some new finish but it will stick out like a sore thumb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would sand back the whole top starting at 60/80 grit and making you way up to 320 grit. Wipe over with white spirit allow to fully dry. Check for any grain rise (run you hand over it, if it feels bumpy light sand again with 320 grit). Then select your finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would personally use a Danish oil as it brings the grain out and has a protective quality when it fully cures. However, there is always varnish and other types of oils. I would stay away from wax if you plan on putting anything with heat or moisture on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanding will also give you the additional benefit of removing all the other scratches from the surface giving you a flawless finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While using chemical strippers is easier, there are some fundamental things you should know about it before you go down that route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without proper protection you can run the risk of serious respiratory system damage as well as various other health issues. If you choose to use a chemical stripper make sure you use something that doesn't contain Methylene Chloride in it. Even products that have not got Methylene Chloride present in them can still be damaging to the environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A dusk mask can keep you safe from the dust produced when sanding. It will not protect you from the vapours given off by the stripper; this requires an M class respirator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either method would work for what you have, but you should be aware of the risks involved to the object or yourself before choosing either way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8121" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-01-08T22:22:22.600" LastActivityDate="2020-01-08T22:22:22.600" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10201" CreationDate="2020-01-08T01:34:38.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The drawer being two tight.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If the drawer still needs to be assembled (i.e. it's not glued together yet) a plane would be the idea tool to thickness it. As long as it's sharp and you only take small shavings at a time or you can just trim the drawer down slightly to give yourself a better fit. If it's already assembled sanding is the only real option on how to do it unless you own a rasp, like a file but rougher, designed to remove wood quickly but you would still want to sand it afterwards. However there is something you can do to help yourself along and that is by waxing the sides and bottom of the drawer and then opening where it fits (a jeweller's wax rather then a wax you'd use to finish something with). You will still have to sand it but at least this way you can save yourself a little work. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The hinges&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Can I assume you're using you normal butt hinges? If so maybe take a look at barrel hinges, the are designed to be sunk into the wood and fixed with epoxy or some other glue. Typically used for jewellery boxes and more decorative objects but I bet they would work for this too.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Handle&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you have any spare wood left you could make a handle to secure to the centre section and have one side fold over the front and the other side fold over the back. You could then use small drawbolt latches to lock it all in place to keep it secure when moving.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8121" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-01-08T15:16:41.680" LastActivityDate="2020-01-08T15:16:41.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10222" CreationDate="2020-01-08T09:32:11.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have tried using wood cleaner and ring away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither one of these was an appropriate product to use as there's finish actually missing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How can I get rid of them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;'Spot refinishing' is what you're looking to do and this is notorious for being tricky to impossible for the amateur to pull off. It's not at all difficult to &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt;, the hard part is in getting it not to show. Even pros can struggle to do this, just to put it into perspective. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus, in the UK some of the product that would be most likely to work for this aren't sold or are only available through specialist suppliers. This limits your options or makes those available more expensive than you'd probably like. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If the piece has value to you, and you want it to look its best&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I would recommend you give strong consideration to stripping the whole top and refinishing it. It's a lot more work but not really difficult work, and much more likely to give you a result you'll find acceptable. Plus, a top where all the finish is of equal age will do better in the long term.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please see note below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If the piece is not that important&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You could just leave it as it is. The small patches of exposed wood are not of any great significance except aesthetically. The table won't self-destruct, even if exposed to modest amounts of water from cleaning, spills or sweaty glasses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find you just can't live with them I would recommend applying a few coats of wiping varnish. Buy a small tin of the cheapest varnish you can find (a pound shop should have something), some white spirit (again, pound shop if you only want a small amount) and combine the two in a clean jar. More on wiping varnish in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5891/how-to-fix-very-light-scratches-in-polyurethane-finish/5893#5893&quot;&gt;this Answer&lt;/a&gt;. You'll also need some fine abrasive paper (320 grit is probably about right) and/or steel wool (000 or 0000 grade). You can use kitchen paper as your sole application tool, although scraps of lint-free cotton cloth are preferable (careful when disposing of either&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;). Although dilute varnish is fairly innocuous you may wish to wear rubber, vinyl or nitrile gloves as well so you don't get any on your fingers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A note on removing old finish from furniture&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you choose the first option I strongly recommend you do not remove the old finish by sanding. As I've covered in numerous previous Answers, sanding is the &lt;em&gt;worst&lt;/em&gt; way to remove old finish&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; and should be reserved for situations where it is the only available option – it should be be considered the method of last resort, i.e. &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; other options are preferable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chemical strippers should be thought of as the no. 1 way to remove old finish. While stripping is undeniably messy and takes some time&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; it is preferable for a few reasons in almost all cases. Every properly trained pro will strip old finish by preference, &lt;em&gt;if&lt;/em&gt; it's necessary to remove it entirely and they can't just refresh what's there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; There are a few ways of doing this but the simplest is probably to dry flat until they've gone stiff, then they're safe to throw in the rubbish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; In addition to the risk of damage to the furniture itself — including but not limited to sanding through veneer, rounding edges and corners (both easily done even with experience and while being careful) — it converts the dried finish, plus any dirt or contaminants in/on it, into a fine dust which is a health hazard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Most modern consumer-level strippers work more slowly than the strippers available previously (actually up until just recently) which relied on a very effective solvent which is now restricted in most markets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-01-08T15:22:51.550" LastActivityDate="2020-01-08T15:22:51.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10227" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-08T13:04:41.997" Score="-2" ViewCount="418" Body="&lt;p&gt;As per the title, which advanced 3D modeling software can be used for designing projects/pieces?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the moment I am using Sketchup Free but it is lacking in the complex shapes, i.e. compound cuts, as well as measuring angles and copying them easily; therefore, I am thinking about upgrading to the shop version which costs 120/yr or finding something else more advanced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8123" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-01-09T13:30:41.877" LastActivityDate="2020-01-09T13:30:41.877" Title="Which Advanced 3D design software can be used for woodworking?" Tags="|design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10227" CreationDate="2020-01-08T14:08:40.633" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally I user Blender, woodworking wasn't the primary thought when designing the software but it works really well. There can be a bit of a steep learning curve though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8121" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-01-08T15:00:28.383" LastActivityDate="2020-01-08T15:00:28.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10227" CreationDate="2020-01-08T16:36:14.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you've used SketchUp, you've experienced the effort involved in dragging out shapes/lines/etc and ensuring dimensions for your project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 3D modeling program, web-based and free that may do as you require is Tinkercad. It allows one to drop primitives (box, sphere, cone, etc) onto a workplane and manipulate them as needed to create the project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the basic operations such as move/translate, rotate, etc are graphically represented and easily understood. There are a few features of note, such as workplane, which allows one to create a new reference based on an existing object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the low overhead of the software, it's relatively fast to &quot;toss out the shapes&quot; on the workplane and push them around to get a good view of the project, then use the fine-tuning features to place them precisely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The default setting is metric, but can be changed to Imperial units if desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, I downloaded a laser cut project, provided free, without instructions for assembly. It was a rather complex set of parts and not intuitive, especially for the gift recipient. I was able to load the cut file's individual pieces into tinkercad and manipulate them to determine placement and fit, without having to cut a single piece of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the basics are learned, it's a fairly intuitive program.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've not noted if you require a specific output format and anything other than a visual representation may require other software, which isn't necessarily a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image below is of a recent project, with the components created and assembled in Tinkercad. It allowed me to determine placement of the panels with respect to a reference figure in the center. The dimensions are to scale and used to create the complete project using other software. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7hr1k.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7hr1k.png&quot; alt=&quot;example box&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastEditorUserId="3985" LastEditDate="2020-01-08T16:43:04.727" LastActivityDate="2020-01-08T16:43:04.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10230" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-09T18:05:24.470" Score="1" ViewCount="1002" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to using a router and have been experimenting with basic cuts on a table. I have not tried a handheld or freehanded on the table. I recently did all the cuts to make a serving tray and I want to cut out the handles. My plan was to cut two holes with a forstner, jigsaw between the two and then clean it up with a router. What is the safest way to go about this? Table or Handheld? Bit type, size and technique? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bpU3D.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bpU3D.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8128" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-01-09T18:55:28.953" LastActivityDate="2020-01-10T07:54:22.633" Title="Handle cutouts safely using a router" Tags="|safety|router|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10230" CreationDate="2020-01-09T20:01:00.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Routing an inside feature like this is going to be awkward on a table. I'd clamp this up with a jig and use the router by hand to shape it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, if you are already hogging most of the waste out with other tools anyway, you could shape it with a rasp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2020-01-09T20:01:00.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10230" CreationDate="2020-01-09T23:00:42.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many ways to do this, any of which can be made safe enough for the risk to be acceptable.  I'll outline how I would do it, but there are probably a dozen slightly different variants that would also work just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would use a template bushing on a plunge router with an oversized template to make the opening.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start by determining the radius on the corners.  To my eye this looks like about 1/4&quot;, so use a 1/2&quot; (diameter) bit.  Find a template bushing that is big enough to fit the bit inside and attach to your router's base plate (making sure it's centered properly - your bushing set should include centering mandrels that fit in your router's collet.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next you'll make a jig with a hole in it.  The jig's hole should be oversized in both directions by the difference between the diameter of the bushing and the diameter of the bit.  I'd make this template by ripping two strips of scrap to the height of the hole plus the offset, squaring the ends, and gluing them between two more longer strips of the same scrap.  Marking out the center points of the hole before you glue it up might be helpful in alignment later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The jig can be attached to the work piece either by clamping or with double-sided tape.  If you plan on clamping try to make the jig big enough for the clamps to be outside of your router's base plate.  It's no fun having to stop to move clamps around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a plunge-able bit you will have to start with a pilot hole.  You might also want to hog out most of the waste to save wear on your router bit and make the cut a little safer and less tear-out prone.  If your work piece is thicker than 1/2&quot; you'll want to make the cut in stages.  This will be a through-cut so make sure you're working on a sacrificial surface (and you don't plunge through it!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Place the bushing against the inside surface of the jig, turn it on, and plunge the router into the work piece.  Move the router around the jig &lt;strong&gt;in a clockwise direction&lt;/strong&gt;.  The router should be moved fast enough to avoid burning but not so fast that the motor bogs down or you feel like you're &quot;forcing&quot; the tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the jig and run a bearing-guided roundover bit around both sides (again in a clockwise direction.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-01-10T07:54:22.633" LastActivityDate="2020-01-10T07:54:22.633" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10234" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-09T23:23:11.823" Score="0" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to paint my MDF kitchen cabinet doors and want a professional finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm testing on some MDF offcuts to perfect the finish. I have used a paint sprayer using Dulux satinwood, finish does look fairly even however you can still feel a roughness and little bumps in it when you feel it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have created a dust free spray booth using plastic sheeting. How can I improve this further? I have got a better result using a spray can but that's a very expensive option for a whole kitchen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is Dulux paint suitable for a sprayer? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there paints that are better for cabinet doors? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7883" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-01-10T07:57:14.983" LastActivityDate="2020-01-10T07:57:14.983" Title="Painting cabinet doors" Tags="|paint|cabinetry|door|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10234" CreationDate="2020-01-10T01:06:25.003" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the &quot;bumps/roughness&quot; you're seeing are &quot;orange peel&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could also be a &quot;sandpaper&quot; texture.  That's usually an indication of a &quot;dry&quot; spray.  I.e. the material is drying before it hits the surface.  It could also be dust nibs which are contamination in either the air (which I doubt because you said you set up a makeshift booth) or in your material (make sure you're straining it.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Orange peel is caused by the material not atomizing sufficiently.  Basically you're getting &quot;clumps&quot; of material hitting the surface that don't &quot;flow out&quot; into a smooth, even liquid film.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure your material is thin enough. Get a viscosity cup to measure it and thin it down until it matches the recommendation from your gun's manufacturer.  This is the #1 cause of orange peel.  Most paint is designed for brushing or airless and is too thick for HVLP.  Latex paint in particular is way too thick to use with HVLP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the material is well mixed, that your tip set is big enough, that your air is all the way up (at least to start), that you're setting your regulator while the air is flowing, and that you're not too far away.  Also make sure that the bleed hole in your cup isn't blocked with old material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2020-01-10T01:06:25.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10237" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-10T11:13:22.537" Score="0" ViewCount="1245" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am painting cabinet doors using Dulux waterbased satinwood. It does seem to remain in a state where things touching it tend to stick. I have found this to be the case on other doors even after many months.  I also find that it's quite easy to mark or scratch. However, painted doors from a factory seem hard to scratch and don't stick. I'm wondering how I can achieve this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would lacquer or polyurethane over the top of the water based Dulux satinwood help? Would this make it tougher? Or is it a daft idea to finish something using a satinwood paint then a different finish that also applies a slight sheen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7883" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-01-10T18:22:36.197" LastActivityDate="2021-10-04T11:04:45.420" Title="Lacquer/polyurethane over paint?" Tags="|finishing|paint|door|decoration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10238" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-10T16:05:18.723" Score="0" ViewCount="525" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of crafting a wooden horn (like those used to blow, crafted from natural animal horns).&#xA;I'd like to know how hard would it be to take a trunk piece and make a horn, drilling a hole making it hollow after giving it a desired shape and then paint it to tase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea was to make a good looking and functional sounding horn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to do it at home?&#xA;What tools should I use for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8130" LastActivityDate="2020-01-10T22:21:51.857" Title="How complex is it to craft a wooden horn?" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10238" CreationDate="2020-01-10T16:16:10.217" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Really, really hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A conic style instrument, in the manner of a vuvuzela, might be possible by an advanced wood-turner. But a more natural convoluted animal horn-like instrument would be pretty challenging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose one could carve it out by hand, as long as the convolutions were simpler (no real spirals, for example) but I suspect it would be a lot of work involving clever technique and special tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the shape is not really the important part. It can look like a horn but not resonate, in which case it will not (easily) make a pitch. It needs to resonate as well, which is a function of the how the air space interacts with the &quot;shell&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can happen more naturally, as in the case of the didgeridoo, which is often made from wood where the heart and pith has been removed (often by termites!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The comments reminded me of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alphorn&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;alphorns&lt;/a&gt; which are carved from softwood such as spruce. Apparently, these would often be made of naturally curved pieces, but modern design is to fit multiple carved pieces to get the intended shape. So, you could look into the techniques and tools used to make those instruments. In general, you would carve these pieces using typical (and likely custom) carving tools. But each instrument style will probably demand its own special techniques and tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-01-10T22:21:51.857" LastActivityDate="2020-01-10T22:21:51.857" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10240" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-10T17:52:21.840" Score="-1" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had some 6&quot; oak beams cut and even though I put sealer on the ends, they still split. I assume this is because they are still absorbing moisture somehow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can stabilize thick beams like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that stabilizers like PEG only work on wood that is a maximum of 4&quot; thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that I just need to somehow prevent moisture from getting to the wood while it dries. So, maybe put it in an airtight box with a dehumidifier?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2020-01-10T18:35:40.437" Title="Preventing splitting in a thick blocks of wood (over 6 inches)" Tags="|wood-drying|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10214" CreationDate="2020-01-10T18:12:54.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wood does look like it's either Pine, Hemlock or Fir, all of which are soft and stains tend to be absorbed very easily - much further than you would want to remove material. I have two suggestions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Test the stain you want to use on the bottom of the stair tread. Per the comment from Ashlar, stains are also absorbed and quite frequently look blotchy on those species, especially if you are using a dark stain. You'll want to use a sealer first, which will control the absorption and even it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Depending on the age and style of your house, I'd go with rustic look and embrace the stains. You will never be able to remove them, as the stains and dings look like they are far below the surface (2mm-6mm). It would take a very dark stain to blend in with the marks and you would be sanding/scraping/planing for a long time to make them look anything other than sturdy old steps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I'd put a poly finish on it and show off the grain and rustic nature of the steps. Even if you have a 5-year old house and these are just the product of getting overly beat up, trying to cover them up and look nice is a bit futile. You could paint them, but paint wears off and requires periodic re-painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7886" LastActivityDate="2020-01-10T18:12:54.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10240" CreationDate="2020-01-10T18:35:40.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are multiple reason why wood splits, most probably not because water is being absorbed, but rather it is drying out at a different rate in the wood. The reason that a sealer might help is because the end-grain of the wood drys out much faster than the wood in the center of the beam and the sealer on the end-grain tends to slow the process down. Also, the faster the wood is dried might increase this effect, as it takes a long time for the moister to escape the center of a 6&quot; beam and any attempt to speed the process up will increase the risk of splitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also be dealing with the forces of the wood fibers. Unless the grain is very straight, when the wood drys, all of the fibers pull in different directions. This is unavoidable but the slowness and completeness of the drying might make it better (or worse). If your beams have a lot of curve in the grain you might also experience bending or warping as they dry out. This is where the term, &quot;wood moves&quot; comes from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to minimize the chance of splitting, my recommendation is to paint the end-grain and put them (uncovered) in a dry, cool, dark place for 6-12 months. This way the wood will have a chance to dry out as evenly as possible, noting that there may still be cracks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7886" LastActivityDate="2020-01-10T18:35:40.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10243" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10245" CreationDate="2020-01-10T22:17:14.570" Score="0" ViewCount="222" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just recently purchased an old, 1945 era, cast iron craftsman table saw off Craigslist for $25 with the intent to clean it up and restore it.  You get what you pay for and it’s heavily rusted.  I’ve been reading all over the internet about different methods for removing rust (elbow grease, scotch pads, vinegar, electrolysis, etc) and to do a thorough job I think they’ll all require dismantling everything down to the bone first.&#xA;Hoping to skip that dismantling step I was wondering if it would be a good idea to submerge the entire machine in electrolysis to remove it in one fell swoop.  Worth pointing out the motor/anything electrical is separate and wouldn’t be submerged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any reason I shouldn’t? Any bearings/etc that would be damaged by it? Other reasons you can think of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar question: would it be safe to submerge it all in similar derusting solutions (vinegar, etc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8133" LastActivityDate="2020-01-12T09:07:24.793" Title="Submerge entire table saw in Electrolysis" Tags="|table-saw|rust|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10243" CreationDate="2020-01-11T04:37:03.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the blade tilt and elevation work or can be freed, cleaning the top with fine (220 or so) and random orbit sander, I worked well on mine. I really do not know if it would damage the bearings probably not good for them but??? you would defiantly have tore lube the threads on the tilt and elevator shafts. I am assuming that it is a &quot;100&quot; series they are a fine saw the rip fence is not good. I have 2 100 series saw and use it to do fine woodworking motor upgraded to a 2 hp new rip fence and miter gauge, The bearings may have to be replaced not hard just a little tedious. It beats any new saw you can buy for $800 or less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2020-01-11T04:37:03.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10243" CreationDate="2020-01-11T09:41:19.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hoping to skip that dismantling step &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me dash that hope first (sorry!) you're going to need to do some dismantling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to do some, and to do a really thorough job you have to take it down to individual pieces. Not doing this (with anything, even something as mechanically simple as a hand plane) is doing a half-assed job of it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason you need to do at least some disassembly is that all rust-removal processes require access to the rust. And nothing can magically reach inside the gap between a nut and its bolt, or any screws and the threaded holes they go into&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. Two pieces that only press together tightly can be treated for days or weeks and have the rust between them be &lt;em&gt;completely&lt;/em&gt; unaffected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to do this properly you need to separate things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I was wondering if it would be a good idea to submerge the entire machine in electrolysis to remove it in one fell swoop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. It won't work, at least not the way you're visualising.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from certain technical difficulties trying to do this on something of this mass, electrolysis has a certain line-of-sight effect between the part and the sacrificial electrode(s). While this problem can be exaggerated by detractors of the method it is undeniably a factor, and it means that internal surfaces, hollows and of course the small gaps I mention above will get little or no rust removal while the externals get clean. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What to do instead?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For something of this size I suggest a molasses bath as a cheap, safe (for you and the rusty object) and effective alternative. Here's how effective:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YM6VB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YM6VB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Molasses bath before and after&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For large-scale rust removal like this molasses solutions are hard to beat in terms of cost effectiveness. Other than the smell&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; the only real downside to this method that I've seen is in the speed. It's slow. But why be in a rush?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As with all rust removal processes it's a very good idea to clean the thing reasonably well before you start. Brush off any loose rust while you're at it. Most important with chemical rust removal is to degrease as much as you can because any significant oily or greasy surface deposits will slow or prevent the chemical from being able to act on the iron and steel.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As with all chemical solutions molasses solutions are more effective at higher concentrations. You'll read various dilutions given online (10:1 and 11:1 seem to be popular) but my experience and that of others has shown it still works far more dilute than this — 20:1, possibly lower. Which is handy for something of the size you're dealing with!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As with all chemical reactions it goes faster at higher temps but it's &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; vital that the solution be kept warm, a molasses soak does continue to work in the cold. I've had continued results at maybe 2-5°C (35-41°C) on a cold windowsill in an unheated room, however it is noticeably faster in the summer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It's a relatively slow method at the best of times. For heavy rust deposits think weeks not days.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your molasses solution can be used many many times before it's exhausted, some even suggest indefinitely. I've never had the chance to test this out myself but I have kept a bath going for over two years and other users report they've had theirs up and running for much longer. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In the US a common source of molasses cheap in bulk is at somewhere like a feed store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; If there even is one! Bad rust tends to have closed this gap, which is precisely why rusted bolts and screws are so hard to unscrew (even when they go into wood, where there's no &quot;rust weld&quot; effect).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Some people don't mind it so much but it is strong and if you don't care for it will be a little off-putting. But you don't have to be around it much because as soon as the thing is fished out of the solution you'll be moving it to one side and hosing it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-01-12T09:07:24.793" LastActivityDate="2020-01-12T09:07:24.793" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10246" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-12T03:59:16.570" Score="2" ViewCount="3145" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 5' square dining table made of teak. The tabletop appears to be made of glued-together boards 3&quot; - 5&quot; wide. A couple of these boards have come apart, and now I have a gap almost 1/8&quot; running the full length of my table. I'd like some advice on how to fix this, please.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen similar threads on filling cracks with epoxy filler, or similar. This would be fine with me if it's suitable for such a large gap. I am most interested in something that fills the gap, is robust, and looks decent enough (the fix does not have to be perfect aesthetically).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the complication here is that it's not &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; a gap - one of the sides seems to have lifted, such that there is also a raised edge of about 1/8&quot;. How would I got about evening this up before applying a filler?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have basic tools (hand planes, sanders, etc), but not a full wood shop (no surface planer machine, etc). My goal here is a functional fix at least hassle and expense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have attached photos and would really appreciate expert advice on how to approach a repair in my case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pb5Il.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pb5Il.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jLmv2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jLmv2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6S87f.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6S87f.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8138" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-01-12T08:23:46.863" LastActivityDate="2020-01-13T19:50:44.270" Title="Fixing table crack and ridge" Tags="|wood-repair|tabletop|wood-movement|filler|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7326" CreationDate="2020-01-12T07:32:12.330" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;(according to 2019 product data sheet) You actually have your Barrikade EP-TP mixing ratio wrong. is 100:44 BY VOLUME, and if you're doing it by weight, it is 100 : 38,9.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8140" LastActivityDate="2020-01-12T07:32:12.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7959" CreationDate="2020-01-13T05:03:58.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apply several coats of polyurethane in the recessed areas, using a small brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will take you an obscene amount of time because you will have to wait for it to cure between coats. You will need to sand it back some between coats. Then when you are done, you will have to sand some of it to match the surface transition over the gaps. The final result should look good, though: it will have a transparent, epoxy-like finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a good example of why the unevenness should be addressed before applying the finish, much like how you want to put body filler on panels and sand them smooth before applying the paint, because paint does not fill holes very well (too thin).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that around the longer gaps, the height of the surface on either side of the gap might not be the same. Use a straightedge to quickly check for flatness across the gap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately, you can sand off some of the finish in the gaps and fill with colored epoxy or plain wood filler. You will not have to put as many coats to achieve desired flatness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1227" LastActivityDate="2020-01-13T05:03:58.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10237" CreationDate="2020-01-13T08:11:29.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general it's fine to overcoat paints with a clear coat. After all this how cars are painted, with a clear coat as the final layer to protect the paint and ensure the best long-term performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The paint and clear coat don't need to be of the same type, or &quot;share the same chemistry&quot; as it's often put. You can overcoat with anything that won't cause the paint to craze or wrinkle, but I presume you'll want to keep the colour unchanged as much as possible and have application be similar to the paint's so you're limited to only waterbased finishes. Waterbased clear finishes are mostly absolutely colourless&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; and if you match sheen fairly closely will minimally change the colour of what they're applied to&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I say in my Comment above, your real challenge will be in finding a clear waterbased finish that doesn't share the same characteristic as the Dulux paint you've used! You'll need to rely on good feedback from consumers and/or a finish comparison test done by a magazine or website to find one that has zero problems with remaining tacky. And while you're at it you might as well pick something that tops the charts in as many other respects as well, aiming for the best durability in the long term. With luck you'll far exceed the lifespan of the Dulux paint by itself, possibly adding years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; AKA &quot;water-white&quot;. But do note because the finish is a suspension in water they are milky in the container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Changes in gloss change apparent colour. If you gloss coat a matt paint in a pale colour expect that the colour will become slightly 'deeper', i.e. darker and more saturated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-01-13T08:11:29.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10250" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-13T13:53:00.837" Score="0" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;For financial reasons I have de- and reassembled a used kitchen in my apartment. Said kitchen - as I arranged the elements differently than before - needs a new countertop and I can't really see myself not using wood, just because it's haptically superior. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thing is though, the kitchen I got has fronts made of a cherry wood veneer that has either darkened a lot over the years or was just coloured that way, in any case it's of a deep red-brown almost like mahogany. The other parts of the kitchen are white. Obviously I want my countertop to harmonise with the rest of my kitchen, but a countertop made from cherry or a similarly reddish wood (say Iroko) will run me close to 500 € which makes little sense to spend on a kitchen I got used for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, kitchen countertops where I live are made of beechwood and I can get fitting plates for acceptable prices, but the very light colour of beech would seem out of place in my kitchen. Unfortunately, the typical coloured stain for wood isn't intended for kitchen use where food safety is a concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen some very few topoils that are available in different wood colours, but have yet to find a fitting one I can actually buy. Thus my question: is there an affordable and food safe method to colour a beech countertop to adopt a darker, reddish colour and what is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4325" LastActivityDate="2020-01-13T13:53:00.837" Title="Colouring a Kitchen Countertop" Tags="|staining|coloring|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10246" CreationDate="2020-01-13T19:50:44.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like some of the comments said, the first thing to do is to determine why the cracks opened up in the first place.  Broadly, there are two potential causes.  Either seasonal movement was not being allowed for or  the boards were not given proper time to acclimatize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you should do is examine the construction of the base of the table and how it is attached to the top.  If there is a rigid connection between the base/apron with the grain of the base perpendicular to the top this will not allow for the top to expand and contract with the seasons.  Typically in well-planned construction these connections will be made with grooves, enlarged holes, or &quot;figure 8&quot; connectors to allow movement.  If this is not the case this must be corrected or you will have more issues in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the top is attached to allow movement it may be that the wood was had not properly acclimated before being glued-up into the tabletop panel.  If the wood was air dried it may have been worked too soon.  This process can take years...  If the wood was kiln dried it may be that it was drier than its normal equilibrium and moved as it re-absorbed moisture.  It may also just be that your environment is substantially different than where it was worked.  I would worry, for example, if I were moving a piece from Florida (high humidity) to Arizona (low humidity).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've figured out the cause you basically have two options to fix it.  You can rip the boards apart and re-glue the panel or you can just fill the gaps and re-flatten the top.  In your case it sounds like you're leaning towards the second method, so I'd use either a hand plane or belt sander to even out the &quot;ridge&quot;, then fill the gap with epoxy dyed to match the wood color, then sand/scrape down the existing finish and refinish.  If you're not too sensitive to color mismatches I would just refinish the top surface and not the whole table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2020-01-13T19:50:44.270" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10252" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-14T01:57:15.253" Score="0" ViewCount="55" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sanded the western pine with 80 then 160 , I admit I put too much stain on at first to make it darker , now I have I have clear blotchy spots on it , any advice is greatly aprreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brad &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8145" LastActivityDate="2020-01-14T01:57:15.253" Title="Blotchy finish on stain job" Tags="|wood|staining|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7326" CreationDate="2020-01-14T11:51:13.433" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.techcoat.lt/en/page/32&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;checked the website&lt;/a&gt; for this epoxy. The pot life is not the same as the curing time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Potlife: 30 minutes at 23 ° C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Curing time:  &lt;strong&gt;Initial curing 10-12 hours at 23°C. Full cure after 7 days.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So there is nothing wrong here!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8147" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-01-14T16:25:48.367" LastActivityDate="2020-01-14T16:25:48.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10255" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10256" CreationDate="2020-01-14T19:55:34.273" Score="4" ViewCount="9657" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will be making my first cabinet out of MDF, taking inspiration from a product I have seen, also made out of MDF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It won't be anything fancy, as you can see from the simple diagram of the join below.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IYTAx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IYTAx.png&quot; alt=&quot;Corner piece join diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know MDF is considered to be rather weak when it comes to joining at the edges, so I was wondering what the best method of joining pieces like this together? Pocket holes, dowels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ju1ti.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ju1ti.png&quot; alt=&quot;Dowel join&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BwAiw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BwAiw.png&quot; alt=&quot;pocket hole&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8149" LastActivityDate="2022-01-18T16:13:29.587" Title="Joining MDF - Pocket holes vs dowels" Tags="|joinery|cabinetry|mdf|dowel|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10255" CreationDate="2020-01-14T20:16:39.040" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;MDF is different than normal wood, in that there is no end grain vs face grain.  Since MDF is all just basically sawdust combined with a resin, any surface is as strong as the other for gluing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may well be that a properly glued, clamped, and cured joint may be plenty strong for what you want.  It will depend upon where the stress is being applied.  My guess is that with either dowels or pocket screws, the surrounding material will fail before the fastener will, so you can most likely get away with either.  Dowels will probably be slightly stronger, but more of a pain to do correctly.  Pocket hole screws will be much faster and not require clamping while the glue dries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2020-01-14T20:16:39.040" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10255" CreationDate="2020-01-15T01:28:52.863" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would definitely recommend the dowels.  The greatest stresses will be in tension trying to pull the boards apart and breaking the connection of the screw or dowel with the boards. Both the dowel and screw will be stronger than the boards.  Imagine pulling up on the horizontal board in your illustration.  All the rotational force will try to pull the screw out of the board and it is only resisted by the surface of the board in contact with the screw (a very narrow width of board). The dowel on the other hand has much more surface area in contact with the board and will distribute the load over a broader contact area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2020-01-15T01:35:00.687" LastActivityDate="2020-01-15T01:35:00.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10255" CreationDate="2020-01-15T09:08:30.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use biscuits in this situation, not for strength, but because wood and mdf likes to move when glued, even when clamped. The biscuits align the piece so the edge is clean. Dowels would do the same job but hard to align if using a drill - router and fence is better. Pocket screws have the same issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7671" LastActivityDate="2020-01-15T09:08:30.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10260" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-15T23:06:32.740" Score="1" ViewCount="848" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought this 15x20x4&quot; maple board for my husband to hack up meat &amp;amp; bones for our dogs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's been on the granite counter, near our Berkey (water filter), except for cleaning.  When I filled the filter Saturday, I noticed some water at its base.  During clean-up, I found a 2 oz puddle under the board.  I wiped it up, and this is what I found the next morning. (The photo is of the &quot;top&quot;, though it's reversible.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if there was some way it could be fixed, or maybe taken apart and re-glued as a smaller board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd really appreciate any advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hJdph.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hJdph.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;top of board&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8152" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-01-16T09:30:17.693" LastActivityDate="2020-01-27T15:48:56.833" Title="Can this end-grain cutting board be saved?" Tags="|wood-repair|end-grain|cutting-board|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10261" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10264" CreationDate="2020-01-16T01:31:11.370" Score="3" ViewCount="585" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have gone deeper into manual woodworking and marking gauges and, in this case, marking knifes are essential in accuracy, especially for joinery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do have a problem though, I keep running my marking knife into the square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how the marking knife looks like (exact product / photo) : &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JwLx9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JwLx9.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The square looks so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YqslB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YqslB.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ruler part of the square is a bit thin (I suspect this could be part of the cause), around 0.7mm (a bit less than 2/64&quot;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I trace the line I press the marking knife against the square (the ruler side) and draw. But as I draw I find out the marking knife grinds against the steel of the square or even jumps on it and rides it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I try to press less but either this repeats or I'm drifting the knife line away from the ruler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I try to keep the angle between the knife and the ruler as close to zero as possible while the angle between the knife and the wood piece, close to the angle of the cutting edge, a bit raised as to engage the tip of the knife into the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tried some combination square which has a thicker ruler (around 2.1 mm, which is approx 5/64&quot;) and it helps only a little. I also get small shavings of metal coming from the ruler and feel the edge of the knife blunting away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What seems to have some minimal success is to lower the marking knife (in respect to the wood) as to not engage the tip but the less acute / obtuse angle between the cutting edge and the length of the knife. This gets me more registering surface between the back of the knife and the ruler but feel awkward and leaves a strange mark (it's decently deep but feels weird to the hand).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have some aluminum speed squares but I am afraid to use the marking knife (hardened steel) with them since I fear I will screw them up...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the feeling that I'm doing something really and obviously wrong here as I can see a lot of youtubers successfully using one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What am I doing wrong? What should change?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastActivityDate="2020-01-17T17:08:02.190" Title="Difficulties using a marking knife" Tags="|square|try-square|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10260" CreationDate="2020-01-16T09:28:31.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bet this was a shock, goes to show the power of expanding wood! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think strictly speaking the answer to the question in the title is yes but it's likely beyond the scope of what a non-woodworker can accomplish so best to consider it a gonner. A replacement would be far less hassle, and assuming you don't own some of the requisite tools actually much cheaper, even with the high retail cost of boards of this type. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll briefly summarise what I think would be needed to properly 'repair' this, I use quotes because as you'll read this is actually a complete rebuild. It would need to be sawn apart, back to individual blocks, and every mating surface cleaned up. Then re-glued and clamped (very hard, from all directions, so lots of clamps, and good ones). Lastly one or both faces cleaned up which these days would generally be accomplished by lots of power sanding. The board would end up smaller in all dimensions, losing the most in its length, although if everything is done right it would be good as new..... actually better, see next point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something for you and future readers to notice, see how the block came apart pretty much exclusively along glue lines? This is a sure sign it wasn't glued together as well as it could have been (geek points for woodworkers in footnote 1). If it had been glued together properly &lt;em&gt;it would still have failed&lt;/em&gt;, but pretty much or (hopefully) entirely ignoring the glue lines and just cracking randomly. This is because glue lines should be stronger than the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If this happens again to a future board&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you choose to get another end-grain board, of &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; quality — no matter how good its supposed to be, no matter how expensive it was, no matter what wood(s) it's made from — and it gets wet in the same way the same thing could happen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the underside of a board of this construction gets wet and you notice it in time (i.e. before it cracks) get the entire thing evenly wet, if necessary by soaking briefly in the bath. Then towel it off &lt;em&gt;and let it dry &lt;strong&gt;on edge&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/em&gt; Do not make any attempt to speed drying, just let it dry off at its own pace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a bit of luck it will dry out uniformly and stay (reasonably) flat, but no guarantees you won't get some slight warping. If you do, just get used to using the board on top of a &lt;em&gt;dry&lt;/em&gt; folded tea towel. It may flatten further over time as water slowly comes out of the interior, keep your fingers crossed but best not to count on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is incidentally one reason, of many, I'm not a fan of cutting boards of this construction except from an aesthetic standpoint. They can look awesome. But long-grain boards need less fussing, require basically zero upkeep other than cleaning&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; and ultimately can be far more long-lived. A decent long-grain board could still be in use 30 years after it was made or bought, having shrugged off many incidents such as this. And they cost less, potentially &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; less since a chunk of a 2x12&quot; (preferably without knots but this isn't essential) could make a perfectly reasonable heavy-duty cutting board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Any of or some combination of the following: inferior glue, glue that has lost its effectiveness (too old, maybe got too hot or froze), not enough glue was used (one of the chief causes of starved joints), after glue was applied the pieces weren't brought together and clamped up fast enough, the wood was left too long after cutting before glueing, insufficient clamp pressure (PVAs require &lt;em&gt;lots&lt;/em&gt; of pressure to form the strongest joints).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; None of that oiling, waxing, &quot;cutting board finish&quot; or &quot;board butter&quot; malarkey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-01-16T09:28:31.407" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10261" CreationDate="2020-01-16T13:42:27.220" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep the flat side of the knife against the rule.  Your mark will not be as accurate if you are trying to press the beveled edge against the rule. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reduce the angle of the knife relative to the board.  This will give you more area of contact between the knife and the rule as well as allowing the knife to more gradually sever the wood fibers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally prefer the single bevel blades, but then you need to have two of them (one for each side).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2020-01-16T13:42:27.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10261" CreationDate="2020-01-16T15:40:55.530" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The ruler part of the square is a bit thin (I suspect this could be part of the cause), around 0.7mm (a bit less than 2/64&quot;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt this is directly the cause. The main reason being that many users of these types of knives are using thin steel rules and squares and not having issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, over my lifetime cutting, scoring and marking with various knife types against a steel edge I've had many instances of the knife riding up on to the steel and I 100% attribute it to me, due to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;inattention, basically going on autopilot;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;trying to work too quickly (a big issue in a production environment) by trying to use a single stroke or,&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;actually moving the knife too fast.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing something unthinkingly, obvious risk there! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;WRT trying to mark in one go, this can be fine particularly where you need only a very light line. But for anything deeper one light starter stroke followed by 1-2 further strokes pressing a little more firmly (safer now that the knife has a groove to follow) is &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; superior according to many sources going way back, and continuing to advice given today by many woodworking teachers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Outright speed is always going to make control and accuracy suffer, here as in anything&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;also have some aluminum speed squares but I am afraid to use the marking knife (hardened steel) with them since I fear I will screw them up...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeah I can virtually guarantee you'll pare some metal off an aluminium square and risk ruining that edge. DAMHIK!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What am I doing wrong? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibly a bunch of subtle things which together cause the problem, at least that's my guess. Without seeing someone do something it's really impossible to give better feedback...... and even if you can watch them do it you might be no more confident of diagnosing the issue! I've seen this many times over the years, even with pros giving feedback (in various contexts, including sports and various craft tasks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What should change?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some suggestions, and don't know if any of them but the last will prove useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start again from scratch and try to pay attention to everything you do, including your stance (where you are relative to the knife and the edge you're marking against), then change any of them one at a time and see if you notice an improvement. You've already tried lowering the knife angle, I feel this could certainly form part of the solution for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try knifing a line with your off hand and see if you get the same issue. If you don't, then try to notice what you're doing differently there so you can adopt it with your dominant hand. I've done the opposite when working towards being able to do certain tasks left-handed, not sure if it might work the other way around though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watch some YouTube vids of people using marking knives with this edge profile (shouldn't be hard to find them!) and see if you can identify what they're doing differently to you. But don't be surprised if you can't spot anything with at least some of them — the technique that works could be very subtly different to the one that doesn't, and at normal working speed it could be impossible to see that difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last suggestion is the knife itself. If you find you just can't use it for this then don't feel any pressure to continue to struggle with it&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. I no longer use a single-bevel marking knife at all for this very reason, having made two I found I just couldn't get along with them. I've defaulted back to a basic Stanley knife or a folding utility knife (these use the same blades) at the urging of a friend who rightly pointed out that they're easier to use, safer to have lying on the bench (blade retracts or folds away), and, most importantly, there's no difference in terms of the marks made in basic knife marking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Going more slowly the instances went down to almost zero, and like I say in my Comment above I haven't cut myself doing this in decades. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; You might be reluctant to choose this option because the knife is then going to waste. But not at all, you're sure sure to find other uses for it. If you think of it as a double-bevel skew chisel you should immediately see how you might use it to help clean up corners in dovetailing (a common use for spear-point marking knives). And generally it will make an excellent joint-cleanup tool. You could also push it dead flat against the working surface to do some paring tasks, could make a superior choice for paring dowels flush in some circumstances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-01-16T15:40:55.530" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1476" CreationDate="2020-01-16T19:36:40.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just acquired a table saw and in the manufacturer's manual it suggests using talcam powder as an alternative to paste wax....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An alternative is to apply white talcum powder,rubbed in vigorously&#xA;  once a week with a blackboard eraser; this will fill casting pores and&#xA;  form a moisture barrier. This method provides a table top that is&#xA;  slick and allows rust rings to be easily wiped from the surface.&#xA;  Important also is the fact that talcum powder will not stain wood or&#xA;  mar[k] finishes as wax pickup does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The option of not marking or staining the material being cut is very appealing knowing how hard it is to thoroughly remove finishes once they come in contact with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8154" LastActivityDate="2020-01-16T19:36:40.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10267" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10268" CreationDate="2020-01-16T22:50:20.987" Score="0" ViewCount="788" Body="&lt;p&gt;I watched a couple videos where, to cut a 90 degree angle with a scroll saw, the wood worker simply twisted the wood 90 degrees very quickly. I tried this and it just ruined my blade by bending it out of shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using a Dremel saw (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-Moto-Saw-0-6-Amp-Corded-Scroll-Saw-for-Plastic-Laminates-and-Metal-MS20-01/203899883&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-Moto-Saw-0-6-Amp-Corded-Scroll-Saw-for-Plastic-Laminates-and-Metal-MS20-01/203899883&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I'm using the the MS52 blade. The picture here makes it look a bit bigger than it is but you can see the specs below (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/accessories/ms52-fine-wood-cutting-blade&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/accessories/ms52-fine-wood-cutting-blade&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, this saw has proprietary blades and this is the smallest one they offer as far as I've found. So now I'm trying to figure out whether I ought to reasonably be able to make 90 degree turns with this blade if I were doing it right, or do I just need to get a scroll saw that takes regular blades so I can use a smaller one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used it for the first time (and first time ever using any scroll saw) last night to make the piece below for my wife. I broke 2 blades in the process though. I'm thinking I will just need to get a saw that can take smaller blades but wanted to make sure it's not a technique thing first before I go get another saw just to experience the same problem if it's me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WqP2r.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WqP2r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8139" LastEditorUserId="8085" LastEditDate="2020-01-27T19:14:11.170" LastActivityDate="2020-01-27T19:14:11.170" Title="Trouble with sharp turns on scroll saw. Is my problem technique or equipment?" Tags="|technique|scroll-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10267" CreationDate="2020-01-17T01:16:09.000" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's a nice first piece of work, especially given the limitations of your saw + blade!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The specs on the blade don't show the blade depth (i.e. from tip of the teeth to back of the blade), but it does specify the width as 0.025&quot;.  Extrapolating from the image, the depth looks to be quite large.  Comparing that to the &lt;em&gt;largest&lt;/em&gt; blade I use (a #5), where the blade dimensions are specified as 0.038&quot; deep x 0.016&quot; wide, it looks like your blade is much larger.  For fine work I go down to a #00, which is 0.022&quot; deep and 0.010&quot; wide.  For comparison, that blade is shallower than yours is wide.  See &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.olsonsaw.net/shop/scroll-saw-blades/plain-end-scroll-saw-blades-5-in-6-in/skip-tooth-blades-5in/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.olsonsaw.net/shop/scroll-saw-blades/plain-end-scroll-saw-blades-5-in-6-in/skip-tooth-blades-5in/&lt;/a&gt; for some blade dimensions (disclaimer - I don't buy those particular blades, but have a local store which I get them from, but the dimensions will be very similar).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on that, I would say that yes, your blade is too large for 90 degree cuts.  With a proper blade and a little bit of experience, you should be able to rotate the saw blade in the cut (kerf) a full 360 degrees.  I don't think I would be able to do that with your blade at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another downside to the blade / system you are using is that it has pinned ends - this prevents you from drilling a small hole and feeding the blade through if you need to do interior cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in short, while I am a huge supporter of trying to use the tools you already have instead of buying new ones, I think that you may be better off with a different saw.  Sorry :-(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7515" LastActivityDate="2020-01-17T01:16:09.000" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10269" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10270" CreationDate="2020-01-17T12:17:13.550" Score="2" ViewCount="1098" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a way in which I can make shallow-angled bevel cuts using my circular saw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wanting to create something such as this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PdMX6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PdMX6.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HH_-Lzheaow&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Youtube video&lt;/a&gt;, but I'm not entirely sure what is going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am very aware that this is relatively easy using a table saw and a vertical jig, however I do not have access to something like this :-(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8149" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-01-18T07:49:55.773" LastActivityDate="2020-01-18T07:49:55.773" Title="Cutting shallow-angle bevels with a circular saw - is it possible?" Tags="|cutting|jig|circular-saw|bevels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10269" CreationDate="2020-01-17T15:27:59.997" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you're likely aware, cutting beyond the 45° limit of the saw can be challenging. It's necessary to think more vertically than usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider to build a fence that includes a 90° bracket along the entire length (or as needed to provide stiffness) that will permit you to place the angle as desired:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zyQN7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zyQN7.png&quot; alt=&quot;90° fence build&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blade represented in red, circular saw plate is yellow, vertical work placement allows for single light blue cleat, while horizontal work placement requires additional darker blue cleat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Picture the circular saw running along the top of the image with the blade set to match the desired bevel and depth. If the bracket is the right width (narrow enough), it could be used as the guide fence for the circular saw by attaching an additional guide piece to the underside of the saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the work piece is too large to be vertical and the guide bracket is cut narrow enough, the attachment to the circular saw could be L-shaped and hook over the back side of the bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastEditorUserId="3985" LastEditDate="2020-01-17T18:22:07.113" LastActivityDate="2020-01-17T18:22:07.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10261" CreationDate="2020-01-17T17:08:02.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't actually have to put that much pressure against your square as you make your cut.  The bevel of the marking knife will keep it moving against the rule.  Try making several light cuts focusing on keeping the knife vertical in the cut and not leaning over the ruler.  Then go back for another pass to get a well defined line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="837" LastActivityDate="2020-01-17T17:08:02.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10272" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-17T19:56:29.823" Score="1" ViewCount="635" Body="&lt;p&gt;My mother used to work in home decoration (in Switzerland we have a dedicated name for this: courtepointière) and she always used her Hultafors CONTACT meter (559-2-10) which differs from my regular carpenter ruler because it allows for measuring flat surfaces more easily than mine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see below the marking is reversed from the usual rulers. It starts from 0 from the inside, not from the outside:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XIr2n.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XIr2n.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel this reversed version makes much more sense than the regular ones and I am wondering why nobody except my mother (and now me) use them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8157" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2020-01-20T15:31:47.960" LastActivityDate="2020-01-20T15:31:47.960" Title="Reversed Foldable Carpenter Ruler?" Tags="|hand-tools|measurement|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10273" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-17T22:53:24.163" Score="2" ViewCount="136" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am designing a cabinet and the original design had an unframed raised panel as doors. The millworkers said it was impossible because an unframed panel will warp over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I am in a hotel now and there is a cabinet with just plain varnished boards as the doors, no frame at all and the board seems straight and fine. The door is about 16&quot; x 28&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the feasibility of having an unframed door on a cabinet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2020-01-20T19:43:55.067" Title="Feasibility of unframed doors" Tags="|cabinetry|door|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10272" CreationDate="2020-01-17T23:21:01.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Folding rules come in two main styles: inside read (also called &quot;English measure&quot;) and outside read (&quot;American measure&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never found a good, verifiable, explanation for the difference. There is a rumour (that I think is unfounded) that the American measure was standardized in simple opposition to the English measure. That seems overly perverse, even for the complicated relationship the US has had with England.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The English measure is certainly more natural for right-handed people who want to use the rule for layout work, marking out left-to-right, or for measuring inside dimensions. Even left-handed folks like myself still work left-to-right, and in that way that left-handed people adjust to a right-handed world, I prefer laying out left-to-right, using my right hand on the rule, and marking with my dominant hand. Though some left-handed people use an English rule upside down (and, indeed, you can get left-handed versions of both styles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've &lt;em&gt;heard&lt;/em&gt; that plumbers and, later, electricians, preferred American measure, but (again) this is unfounded. I certainly couldn't tell you &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; this might be so for those trades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think most people who want to revisit folding rules should stick with English measure (inside read) rules, at least for most woodworking. It is the most useful for layout, for measuring rough dimension lumber in a yard, and for general carpentry where you want to measure inside dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plumbers and electricians use rules in a different manner, and maybe they don't care that it lays flat; perhaps they prefer that it can unfold easily in the left hand so they can reach into a void while they use their right hand to mark or cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-01-17T23:26:37.200" LastActivityDate="2020-01-17T23:26:37.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10272" CreationDate="2020-01-18T01:30:48.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally I love folding rules, but I would never use one with the measurements on the inside like this because it precludes including the main feature I use them for:  The sliding extension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sliding extension changes the folding rule from a measuring device into a story-stick that can hold a dimension without the need to remember a measurement.  I use this all the time.  If you want something to match an inside dimension you just set the slide to the dimension and take it to your workpiece.  If you want to make sure a box is square you set the slide to one diagonal and then move it to the other diagonal.  If you want regularly spaced items just set the slide to the spacing and measure from one tick mark to the next.  Even measuring distances in &quot;home improvement&quot; settings is arguably easier because you can set the distance before moving into the spot you need to measure, unlike with a tape where you need to hold the tape and find the measurement you need at the same time.  Without the slide a folding rule has no advantage over the tape measure (and is more awkward to use most of the time.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the measurements are on the inside you can't have a slide in the center as it would interfere with the pivot point.  (I suppose you could have a narrower slide offset to one side, but I've never seen this.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2020-01-18T01:30:48.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10273" CreationDate="2020-01-18T04:44:57.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made unframed raised panel doors out or elm about 13 years ago and they are still flat and the ended up in my shop because the queen did not like them. I have made quite a few solid wood cabinet doors and most are flat, the larger ones have a boards glued and screwed cross grain braces still flat and no cracks. Start with properly dried wood and thoroughly sealed on all sides with a good oil based finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes I know you are not supposed to glue gross grain braces on the back of panels because they will crack my dad did it for years and I have with no problems that I recall, most of these are cherry kiln dried lumber. One is a 55 year old desk that set unfinished for years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2020-01-18T04:44:57.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="836" CreationDate="2020-01-20T10:08:33.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have the time to try a DIY solution, Fisher's Shop on YouTube had a different approach which doesn't require lots of space or material. It mounts directly to the back fence on the mitre saw. He claims some pretty high dust collection rates up in the range of 90%+. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you have the same saw you will have to make some minor modifications but his video should serve as a good guide. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reference link:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jrBaHKtz8GQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jrBaHKtz8GQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example picture:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gmNOU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gmNOU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8166" LastActivityDate="2020-01-20T10:08:33.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6173" CreationDate="2020-01-20T14:05:27.340" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a chemist, literally every explanation of chemistry in this thread is wrong.  PVA is not pv-alchohol, it is pv-acetate.  There is absolutely no such thing as &quot;valence forces&quot;.  Wood fiber is made from a polymer, lignin, and the cells that make up wood fiber are impermeable to water, which is the king of OH groups.  It does not penetrate into the cell wall.  Wood glue is a polymer, forming long crosslinked chains, and that is where it gets its strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8167" LastActivityDate="2020-01-20T14:05:27.340" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10280" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-20T19:04:03.067" Score="1" ViewCount="838" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our beautiful old table has taken some damage the last two times we moved. As a result its legs are now somewhat wobbly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a teak table and it is entirely held together by wooden pins. I intend to use metal L-profiles to give the legs the stability they now lack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pl1hk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pl1hk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Table with wooden pins showing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything wrong with this plan, and should I do this with the table standing on its legs or should I turn it belly-up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if so, how do I ensure it is level?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what it looks like under the apron:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QYKPZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QYKPZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Under the apron&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8170" LastEditorUserId="8170" LastEditDate="2020-01-20T20:58:06.693" LastActivityDate="2020-01-21T22:12:16.483" Title="Stabilizing wobbly hardwood table" Tags="|furniture|wood-repair|hardwood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10273" CreationDate="2020-01-20T19:43:55.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built flat board doors, without backing support, for a bathroom vanity (plenty of humidity) 10 years ago that are still flat.  I believe one of the keys is to carefully select the individual planks and arrange them properly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, choose wood where the rings extend through the thickness of the board, rather than its width. Boards will warp more easily across a wider span of an individual ring. The greater the width of individual rings on the exposed face the more it will have a tendency to warp.  In addition, since the rings in a tree curve there will often be more rings at one part of the board width than at other locations. Wood will tend to warp more when there are fewer layers of rings and uneven numbers of them.  If the grain runs parallel with the board face then there are few rings and  different numbers of layers the board is more likely to warp across its width.  You can identify these boards by looking at their face which will have a 'cathedral' grain pattern, or examining the end where there will be a few ring lines running closer to parallel to the face. On the other hand, if the board face presents many parallel grain lines, its original face orientation was more likely parallel with the radial axis of the tree. It will have less tendency to warp. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to make a door panel choose wood where the grain lines run primarily perpendicular to the face. Make certain they are fairly uniform along the length of the board.  Changes in grain direction can play havoc with the flatness of the board over time. In addition, limit the width of each board in the panel to 2&quot;. This will limit the amount of warp force originating from any one board.  Next, alternate the direction of the grain of each boards so that any warping force from one board is cancelled by the next.  Look at the end grain.  If board grain angles left to right on one board, make certain the adjacent boards direction angles in the opposite direction.  Finally, completely finish the door panel, inside and out, to allow for uniform moisture transmission inside and out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2020-01-20T19:43:55.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10282" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10283" CreationDate="2020-01-20T20:15:33.880" Score="1" ViewCount="6675" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Metabo double tilt sliding mitre saw with a depth stop. I've been using the depth stop on the saw and a hand chisel to create lap joints. Although this has not been very successful as the depth stop loosens with each cut leading to poor results. The stop itself is just a bolt and a nut, is there an easy way to lock it into place and stop it shifting so easily?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8171" LastActivityDate="2020-01-20T21:35:18.030" Title="How can I secure a depth stop on a mitre saw" Tags="|joinery|power-tools|miter-saw|miter-joint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10282" CreationDate="2020-01-20T21:35:18.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Kobalt saw is the same configuration as yours and I suspect the depth stop is identical in form and function. The purpose of the bolt and nut is to allow you to set the desired depth with the bolt, then tighten the nut against the body of the saw. This is effectively called a jam-nut and is often used for securing two nuts on a bolt, tightening each against the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are properly tightening the nut to the saw body and it is coming loose, there's something else amiss, perhaps incorrect threads on one of the components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've not been securing the nut to the saw body, this will resolve the difficulty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively or additionally, one could apply blue threadlocker to the threads where the nut and bolt engage each other and where the bolt engages the saw body. This will eventually set up and require some force to release, but it will release. This will also allow you to continue to make adjustments over time if required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the threadlocker wears out, it's simple to clean away the old material and apply new for continued performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DO NOT USE RED THREADLOCKER. Releasing red requires application of heat and may destroy or otherwise damage components of the saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H9SWO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H9SWO.png&quot; alt=&quot;depth stop&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The depth stop in the image above, highlighted, shows a spring tensioner on the bolt, to keep the adjustment knob from turning. This model would also benefit from application of threadlocker, as the spring isn't always effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2020-01-20T21:35:18.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10280" CreationDate="2020-01-20T22:20:40.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those are some pretty badly fitted mortise and tenons. Ideally, the mortises and tenons are tight enough to require taps from a mallet to seat them. Though, I wonder if the maker did this to allow for radical expansion in the tenons? (Even so, this amount of slop is overkill.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you happen to live in a very humid place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This table is built such that racking forces stress the pins in exactly the right way for them to fail, and as a comment suggests, you probably have a case where one or more of those pins are very weak, or are snapped completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A proper carpentry fix would be to remove the pins completely, assess the voids to make sure they are still viable, and go from there with new pins (which may actually be cone-shaped). If the holes aren't good anymore, and cone or straight pins don't tighten things up it may be necessary to close up the holes in the tenon and refit them using the mortise holes as guides. Or add another hole for a new pin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe some wedges for the tenons, as well, to keep racking forces moving those leg tenons, causing the same failure again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As pointed out in the comments, there is nothing wrong with using metal brackets or mending plates (or wooden cleats, if that is easier). I'd recommend seeing if you can find some of those Ikea-style brackets that connect adjacent legs, as that will really stiffen things up. But if all you can find is 90-degree plates, make sure they have quite a few offset holes for wood screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The screws will eventually pull themselves out from racking forces, but as a stop-gap it'll be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flip the table upside-down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut the ends of those dowels &lt;em&gt;flush&lt;/em&gt; on inside. They should not be proud (sticking out) at all, ideally.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using a mallet (or a hammer and a piece of scrap) tap the outside of the legs so the tenons are jammed as closely into those mortises as possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Screw the mending plates in, but only on one side so the leg is allowed to move.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using a tape measure, find the distance on the diagonal between the outside edge of each set of two legs. We want this to be the same so that the legs form a reasonable square.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't know if these legs are intended to be square (at 90 degrees) to the table top, but the idea is that you adjust the legs so that they agree with each other in terms of the angle to the table-top, and the diagonals you measured above are as close as you can make them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill your pilot holes, using the plates as a guide, and the drive the screws in snug, going around from leg to leg to snug things up evenly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other notes: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to find quality &lt;em&gt;wood&lt;/em&gt; screws. A real wood screw has a shank that has a gap where there are no threads near the head, and rounded shoulders. This ensures that they snug fully down to the shoulder for maximum grip.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill pilot holes for the screws.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-01-21T22:12:16.483" LastActivityDate="2020-01-21T22:12:16.483" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10285" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-21T08:14:48.720" Score="0" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to varnish the tiller of my boat with a marine PU varnish (International Compass - &lt;a href=&quot;https://international-yachtpaint.com/s3/documents/TDS/Compass_eng_A4_20160419.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Datasheet&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have hung the tiller from the ceiling (in a spare room at room temperature) using a screw in an existing hole. I have applied a couple of coats with my brush, but I always seem to get dry spots and some runs. If I use more varnish, I get less dry spots and more runs and vice versa. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Between coat I have been using a utility knife blade to scrape away high spots and when I am satisfied I have given the whole tiller a light sanding with wet sanding paper (400 grit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am quite inexperienced in varnishing, so I appreciate any tips and tricks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am considering if I need to use thinner to make it more liquid (it always seems to be already gelling when I am done applying it to the whole tiller, so I don't brush it over after I am done).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am now at the point where I consider just living with the defects unless I get some hint about how to put a &quot;perfect&quot; coat on. In that case I would let it cure for a week or two, take out the high spots and then apply a final coat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd appreciate any help finishing off the project!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8174" LastActivityDate="2020-01-21T08:14:48.720" Title="Varnishing my tiller without runs or dry spots" Tags="|varnish|boat-building|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6131" CreationDate="2020-01-22T00:56:29.137" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used several coats of an oil based wipe-on poly with very good results on bathroom vanities. make sure to seal all surfaces including the under side and all of the nooks and carnies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2020-01-22T00:56:29.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10288" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10292" CreationDate="2020-01-22T02:56:23.117" Score="9" ViewCount="40548" Body="&lt;p&gt;The glue I’m using says it dries in an hour but cures in 24 hours. What is the difference and is there benefit in leaving clamps on for the full 24 hours? Assume strength is important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8073" LastEditorUserId="8085" LastEditDate="2020-01-28T09:04:31.210" LastActivityDate="2020-01-28T09:04:31.210" Title="Wood glue curing vs drying time" Tags="|glue|terminology|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10288" CreationDate="2020-01-22T15:36:21.770" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the Titebond website:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is the clamping and drying time of Titebond Wood Glues?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For most of our wood glues, we recommend clamping an unstressed joint&#xA;  for thirty minutes to an hour. Stressed joints need to be clamped for&#xA;  24 hours. We recommend not stressing the new joint for at least 24&#xA;  hours. For Titebond Polyurethane Glue, we recommend clamping for at&#xA;  least forty-five minutes. The glue is completely cured within 6 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that higher temperature, drier wood, and lower humidity speed drying time; while lower temperature, wetter wood, and higher humidity slow it.  Stressed joints would be things like a bent lamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2020-01-22T15:36:21.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10290" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10291" CreationDate="2020-01-23T03:37:15.507" Score="1" ViewCount="330" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw a nice console table at a department store (Marshalls) that’s supposedly 100% acacia wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I make sure this table is actually solid wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2833" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-01-25T08:21:18.063" LastActivityDate="2020-01-29T05:14:47.050" Title="Identify if table is solid wood?" Tags="|wood|wood-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10290" CreationDate="2020-01-23T15:05:29.327" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look underneath the table, where all the sins are hidden. You are looking for how the dimensioned pieces are put together, and where unfinished edges will show you if this is a veneer or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fair amount of modern furniture will use &quot;real&quot; wood (usually imported &quot;hard&quot; softwoods) for the carcase or frame. Larger, more decorative pieces like table tops will often be a veneer because these tend to be the most expensive to make, and it is easier to attach veneered engineered wood to aprons and legs because it is very dimensionally stable. So, it can be hard to identify table tops and the like are 100% wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Veneers vary a lot in overall quality, and some can be really hard to spot from the top. There can be some obvious or less obvious giveaways, however:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it is screwed directly to the apron or otherwise attached without allowing for grain movement, it is probably engineered lumber with a veneer. (Or, it is a poorly built table that will start showing cracks and checking by the next change of season.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There may be an obvious seam where the veneer &quot;wrap&quot; overlaps. Look for this on the edge faces, where cheaper veneers can look like gift wrapping. Sometimes you can feel the seam with a thumbnail.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Large surfaces, like table-tops, are rarely large continuous pieces, but rather are a panel made from glued-up smaller pieces and then planed and finished as one piece. But you can see the joins. Since veneers are usually manufactured as large unbroken panels, one dead giveaway is that the grain is both unbroken, but repeating. This is a sign you are looking at a table top that has been &quot;peeled&quot; from a log.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It depends on the style, but if the table top (or other edge parts) have edge banding around them (even if the banding appears to be real wood) this is a sign that the raw edge of engineered product has been finished in order to hide it. There are styles of construction that use hardwood banding to protect softer edges of real wood, though, so the presence of banding isn't an automatic signal a top is veneered.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That all being said, Acacia (whether true Acacia or one of the analogues that are labelled Acacia) wood is cheap and plentiful enough that when it says Acacia, it probably is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how brave you are, once you get underneath the table or chair, an easy trick is to try &lt;em&gt;lightly&lt;/em&gt; scoring unfinished &quot;wood&quot; surfaces with a thumbnail along the grain. &quot;Ripping&quot; fibres, even a little, and feeling how your nail digs (or does not dig) into lower layers gives you a lot of information about lumber. Admittedly, this is a bit of an experience thing, but it is literally a rule of thumb I've seen others use in the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, just pick a corner of the table up a little. Acacia is light. Even large tables made of Acacia don't have a lot of mass. A modest amount of engineered wood products will feel a lot heavier. Well, unless it is made of that new hollow-core stuff, but then it would be so light you'd notice that, too. Hardwood tables are pretty heavy, of course, so this only works for lighter construction woods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-01-29T05:14:47.050" LastActivityDate="2020-01-29T05:14:47.050" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10288" CreationDate="2020-01-24T14:29:10.677" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is the difference [between glue drying and curing time]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As covered somewhat in this previous Q&amp;amp;A, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/6465/how-long-does-glue-take-to-dry&quot;&gt;How long does glue take to dry?&lt;/a&gt; all PVA wood glues 'dry' by literally drying initially and then there's a curing phase, where they undergo a chemical/structural change and harden more completely and get closer to their full strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So your glue says it dries in an hour and takes 24 hours to cure, so it's &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; holding the wood together at hour one and closer to being at full strength after 12, and has nominally achieved max strength after a day. But remember those times are averages, based on assumptions of temperature and humidity and wood moisture content. If &lt;em&gt;any or all&lt;/em&gt; of those are different where you are your glue dry times will be different. Even using air-dried wood rather than kiln-dried wood your drying times will differ slightly, in the same workshop on the same day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's because you can't always know for sure what you're dealing with that you err on the side of caution, unless you have no choice. So it is good general practice to leave clamps on longer than you think is strictly necessary if you can. If there's nothing other than your impatience urging you to remove your clamps and go on to the next step resist the urge! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;is there benefit in leaving clamps on for the full 24 hours?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rarely. However, there's no downside to it either (other than the clamps being tied up and not available for other uses). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To put this more generally: it doesn't hurt to leave clamps on too long, but can if you take them off too soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I cover in my previous Answer, if you take clamps off too early the glue joints can open up very slightly and result in &lt;em&gt;greatly&lt;/em&gt; reduced joint strength. But one detail I wanted to add is that even an invisibly small shift in position or opening between boards can have a profound impact. So your joints don't have to be noticeable open or out of alignment for them to be weaker than they could be — which is literally stronger than the wood around them. This is the goal to aim for, whether the workpiece in question needs it or not. Because, why not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-01-24T14:29:10.677" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10293" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10344" CreationDate="2020-01-24T21:53:18.047" Score="0" ViewCount="3044" Body="&lt;p&gt;My project requires about 60 precise square holes, 14mm on a side. I don't have a mortiser but &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B08133FP5P&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a mortiser bit&lt;/a&gt; is fairly inexpensive. Is there a way I could use that bit by hand to cut those holes? Maybe if I drill a circular hole first then alternate between tapping the square cutter with a mallet and rotating the drill to remove waste? Alternatively, is there another way to rapidly cut precise square holes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3610" LastActivityDate="2020-02-09T11:30:06.327" Title="Is it possible to use a mortiser bit without a mortiser?" Tags="|hand-tools|square|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10294" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10297" CreationDate="2020-01-26T04:06:29.323" Score="2" ViewCount="534" Body="&lt;p&gt;Woodworking newbie here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For fine woodworking, I understand you should let wood dry and get accustomed to your shop (or ideally wherever the finished product will live). Okay so of course that make sense for a huge slab of wood, but is that necessary (or even smart?) for gluing up cheap pine 2x4s?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I glue them up right away they probably won't be dry but they'll be straight(ish). If I wait then it will likely be a lot more effort to square them back up (especially as I don't have a jointer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've watched various YouTube videos where someone shows how to make their version of a simple workbench and I don't ever see anyone talking about letting the wood dry so I'm thinking that most of them don't. Of course, this also raises another question of whether the finishing process will (or can) seal the wood in such a way that it can't dry out any further thus protecting it from warping?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8139" LastActivityDate="2020-01-26T10:25:33.310" Title="Let pine dry or use it right away for building a work bench?" Tags="|workbench|pine|wood-drying|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10294" CreationDate="2020-01-26T05:47:12.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made one years ago just riped the rounded edge off and glued the boards up. It was for a &quot;butcher block&quot; type table it worked the hard part keeping the boards aligned while gluing up. The top ended up around 3&quot; thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2020-01-26T05:47:12.933" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10294" CreationDate="2020-01-26T10:25:33.310" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For fine woodworking, I understand you should let wood dry and get accustomed to your shop (or ideally wherever the finished product will live). Okay so of course that make sense for a huge slab of wood, but is that necessary (or even smart?) for gluing up cheap pine 2x4s?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, not just smart but many consider it mandatory. This is partly based on the wood, the location and the shop environment of course, but in general cheap 2x material is wood that would possibly benefit most from the wait!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can substitute &lt;em&gt;for fine woodworking&lt;/em&gt; with &lt;em&gt;in woodworking&lt;/em&gt; in the first sentence BTW. &lt;strong&gt;All&lt;/strong&gt; types of woodworking can benefit from letting the material acclimate to the local conditions. I've seen multiple examples of what can happen when you bring some new wood into the shop and use it immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course there are times when you can't wait – and by can't I mean &lt;strong&gt;can't&lt;/strong&gt;, not &lt;strong&gt;I don't want to&lt;/strong&gt; ^_^ — and the kicker is you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; get away with it. But where you can wait you should&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I glue them up right away they probably won't be dry but they'll be straight(ish).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They won't glue as well as they would if a little dryer. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The final product starting out straight is absolutely no guarantee they'll stay straight. Never underestimate the power of wood that wants to move — it can crack concrete and bend metal, think what it might be able to do to other wood (or weak glue joints).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I wait then it will likely be a lot more effort to square them back up (especially as I don't have a jointer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To acclimate the wood and get the best outcome sticker it, with heavy weight on top. The weight can be as heavy as you can easily manage, a small stack of cinder blocks or buckets/old paint tins full of wet sand are some good alternatives if you don't have exercise weights you can use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then leave it for at least a couple of weeks. As is often the case in woodworking, no harm in waiting longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've watched various YouTube videos where someone shows how to make their version of a simple workbench and I don't ever see anyone talking about letting the wood dry so I'm thinking that most of them don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe you're correct, they're not just not talking about it, most aren't doing it&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Of course, this also raises another question of whether the finishing process will (or can) seal the wood in such a way that it can't dry out any further thus protecting it from warping?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take it as a given that you can't do this. Essentially this &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; possible, but it's not really feasible on a furniture item. Additionally, such a coating might be very undesirable on a workbench..... think bowling alley in socks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Worth pointing out that other people's success doing this has A, no bearing on whether you will have equal success, in your location with the wood you've bought, and B, is actually no predictor of their future success doing so because even the wood where they are can and will vary. The world is full of &quot;I'd never had a problem doing this before....&quot; stories! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; But I'm willing to bet many of these same people are also using table saws with the guard removed, and often no splitter or riving knife fitted either, are using their jointer without push sticks, have no guard of any description on their router tables....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-01-26T10:25:33.310" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2986" CreationDate="2020-01-26T18:16:37.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the reason for a non round countersink is the number of flutes/blades on the bit. With an odd number, if you can imagine it, a blade on one side is cutting whilst there is no cutting blade on the opposite side and therefore no even support for the bit. This will cause the bit to wander according to the amount of support it is receiving. I experimented with a new, sharp 5 fluted bit in a piece of scrap pine pre drilled and it produced a hexagonal hole. I also used a new, sharp 6 fluted bit and it produced a perfectly smooth round hole. I used a hand held drill and the speed or pressure made no difference. &#xA;My opinion is that some bits (odd or even fluted) are better suited for use in a drill press or lathe where everything is clamped in position and some (even fluted only) are suited to hand drilling where things are allowed to move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8190" LastActivityDate="2020-01-26T18:16:37.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10302" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-28T02:25:08.850" Score="1" ViewCount="758" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are some proper ways of doing rabbets in plywood with hand tools? I tried using a plough plane but it tore out the fibers too much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other manual options are there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-01-28T05:59:59.650" LastActivityDate="2020-02-11T02:21:01.777" Title="What are some proper ways of doing rabbets in plywood using hand tools?" Tags="|hand-tools|plywood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10303" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-28T14:05:21.183" Score="0" ViewCount="111" Body="&lt;p&gt;In going around my house I notice that not infrequently the miters between moldings around doors and other places have opened up into a crack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I am putting new moldings in, how do I avoid this from happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can join the moldings, for example, by using a spline, but that only goes so far, eventually a point is reached where you can't spline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One idea I had is that it is a matter of dryness. If the wood has any moisture, then it will shrink when the moisture dries out eventually. Therefore, if the wood is thoroughly dried before being oil painted, then it should theoretically be stable because it is dry and and there is no way for moisture to get past oil paint, so the wood should never change size. Is that the only way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2020-01-30T17:34:41.537" Title="How can I prevent cracks from opening up in moldings?" Tags="|wood-drying|molding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10304" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-28T16:08:14.397" Score="1" ViewCount="108" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been designing a plywood bed. I have an idea for legs with two or four angled plywood pieces (not parallel) attached to a big plywood sheet top with beefy L-brackets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've thought of a few different leg designs and I'm still worried about stability. I want it to be super, super stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How could I model, simulate or somehow test my design before actually building? Plywood is expensive (will use baltic birch at 28mm) so I want to avoid bad cuts or design choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8201" LastEditorUserId="8201" LastEditDate="2020-01-28T16:13:34.333" LastActivityDate="2020-02-11T20:23:22.303" Title="How would I test the stability of my (bed) design before building?" Tags="|design|plywood|stability|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8482" CreationDate="2020-01-29T18:32:22.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bosch does have an overwhelming number of T-shank blades. I had a tough time on a similar decision. Their website isn't super helpful. So I copy/pasted all this information from different pages on their site into a single spreadsheet (and printed it out to keep w/ my saw/blades. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1sgFrvqPYIU0z6UNRBJh4e5130Av6ub3vGhqUeVhsRK0/edit?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1sgFrvqPYIU0z6UNRBJh4e5130Av6ub3vGhqUeVhsRK0/edit?usp=sharing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these blades should fit all Bosch jigsaws: the blue line (for Pros) like you have and the green line (for DIYers) like referenced in the PDF you linked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your specific application (curved cuts in 18 mm MDF) it seems you are right that the T308BO is the right blade. Not sure when you last looked but it seems like the orange big box store has a 5 pack for $10. I agree that's a bit expensive but you risk spend more ruining the wrong blade. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not an exact science but you could take a copy of the tooth profile to your local store and buy a no-name brand blade that most closely matches tooth profile, TPI, and blade thick/widthness of the Bosch one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/86VSC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/86VSC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7802" LastEditorUserId="7802" LastEditDate="2020-01-29T18:41:20.183" LastActivityDate="2020-01-29T18:41:20.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10309" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10314" CreationDate="2020-01-30T14:14:58.520" Score="2" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been working with ash lately, turning several bowls and using for jaws in a workbench. A fellow woodworker was explaining some of the effects of the emerald ash borer to me and how it's affecting tens of millions of trees in North America. One strategy apparently in addition to removal is to slow the death of infested trees with pesticide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the situation were much less serious, I'd be tempted to joke about the abundance of new material for woodworking, but this is a real problem. I'm curious whether there are any safety concerns due to working with what is probably a lot larger volume of ash wood that has been previously treated with pesticide? Would the sawdust produced be more toxic than normal, for how long, etc.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already take precautions with dust (extraction, personal equipment, etc.) but should previous tree pesticide use change that equation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="853" LastActivityDate="2020-01-31T16:14:57.347" Title="Emerald Ash Borer: pesticide safety concerns?" Tags="|safety|toxicity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10310" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10331" CreationDate="2020-01-30T17:09:54.313" Score="1" ViewCount="196" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some retro style furniture made out of pine, and need to get it to the color of the table in the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first glance, it looks like some kind of oil over varnish, but can't figure it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back in the days I remember people talking about using oil (like used oil), to brush it over wood and the final effect was something similar ot this.&#xA;The intention was to remove wood bug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0PHv9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0PHv9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5947" LastEditorUserId="5947" LastEditDate="2020-02-04T20:01:45.540" LastActivityDate="2020-02-05T18:54:49.380" Title="Getting pine to look like this" Tags="|paint|varnish|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10303" CreationDate="2020-01-30T17:34:41.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While the molding pieces do not get shorter pulling the joint apart, shrinkage across the width of the molding can create a gap.  I recently removed some 'modern 2 1/4&quot; moldings from a door and discovered that in addition to nailing the trim along the length of the face to the rough framing, the original installer also used finish nails on the sides near the joint on the outside edge offset about 1&quot; from the corner point.  These nails held the joint tight for at least 50 years. (Be careful not to get too close to the corner or you will split the trim.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2020-01-30T17:34:41.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6173" CreationDate="2020-01-31T07:09:29.343" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Describing the chemistry precisely is useful because it explains why good practice is successful, but perhaps you just want to know what good practice is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Join long grain to long grain (This explains the geometry of, for example, mortice-and-tenon joints, and why they are better than dowels). Have a smooth surface not a rough one. Have a well-fitting joint (goes together with hand pressure alone, but only just) Allow to set under tight clamping pressure (but not excessively tight, which will squeeze all the glue out) Clean oily woods with mineral spirit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4157" LastActivityDate="2020-01-31T07:09:29.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10313" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-31T13:32:33.340" Score="3" ViewCount="7051" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to drill 48 dog holes through 3/4&quot; MDF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried Forstner and spade bits. The Forstner did fine but heated up and became dull. The spade bit left a jagged edge on hole top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What bit would be the best for this application?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8209" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-01-31T17:55:03.093" LastActivityDate="2020-02-10T13:30:07.907" Title="Drilling through 3/4&quot; MDF?" Tags="|drilling|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10309" CreationDate="2020-01-31T16:14:57.347" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the interest of building a decent article, here's what I have gleaned from a little internet sleuthing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is to get pesticides into the canopy, and under the trunk-wood, but &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; in the sapwood (as I suggested in a comment). This breaks the lifecycle and also gets the larva where they do the most damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Some&lt;/em&gt; of the soil, trunk-injection, and trunk-spray based treatments for Emerald Ash Borer contain pesticides like imidacloprid and clothianidin. At least one of these are common in the cocktails used for making pressure treated lumber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would suggest that using such lumber for indoor use might not be recommended. However, current treatment concentrates on the trunk and canopy, and even soil-based treatment should not enter the heartwood. And none of the treatments are remotely like PTL, where lumber has the chemical cocktail driven deep into the heartwood. In the case of an ash tree, once you strip off the trunkwood and any damage there made by the pest, it looks like you have reasonably safe lumber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, this is my &lt;em&gt;weak&lt;/em&gt; conjecture that previously treated ash can be safely used for lumber in the usual way, at least for furniture and so on. Maybe I'd refrain from using it for bowls or other food use items simply out of an excess of safety; there might be better lumber you can use for that. And I'm probably not going to run out and carve wooden blocks and toys out of this stuff for babies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm hand-waving over the recommendations for how treated ash timber and fresh sawn lumber is transported and stored, as there is evidence that such material is a vector for passing the pests on to other areas. So, follow your local laws about that. Also, take the usual care one should take when sawing any lumber up; even the cleanest organic lumber is toxic when turned into a fine, breathable dust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2020-01-31T16:14:57.347" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10313" CreationDate="2020-01-31T16:57:21.060" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drill a pilot hole for your Forstner bits before drilling the main hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem here is that MDF isn't nearly as compressible as wood.  If you look at the center of a Forstner bit you'll see that the center spur doesn't actually cut.  Material isn't mechanically moved away from the center, it's just compressed to the side and later cleared by the cutting edges.  This works fine in softwood, plywood, and even hardwoods, but MDF simply doesn't compress.  This prevents the bit from moving down and engaging the material fast enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you drill a pilot hole slightly smaller than the center spur on the Forstner bit it will allow the face cutting edges to engage properly and it should cut through the MDF like butter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2020-01-31T16:57:21.060" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10316" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10323" CreationDate="2020-01-31T21:15:20.163" Score="6" ViewCount="1674" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are well known ways to self-prove a straight edge, combination square, or machinist square, to the accuracy needed in woodworking. Those methods only need the tool itself, a pencil or knife, a flat surface (for straight edges) or a flat surface with a true edge (for the squares.) They also amplify the error by twice, which helps the human eye spot it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a comparable way to check the squareness of a &quot;T square&quot;-like square? I'm thinking of things with a stock/fence that is below the plane of the blade/beam, such as an architect's drafting T-square, a drywall square, a shop made circular saw cross cut guide or router dado guide, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You cannot flip them over like a combination square because then the fence is not registering against anything. Referencing against the opposite edge of a piece of wood just reproduces the same angle, not a flipped angle; even if it didn't, you are then trusting the two reference edges are parallel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am aware of the 3-4-5 method, but I don't feel like I can read a ruler or measuring tape to the mere thousandths that the straight edge/combo square truing methods afford. You can compare to another square, but often the square I want to test is significantly larger than my most trusted 12&quot; square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a clever method I am not aware of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3824" LastActivityDate="2021-09-06T04:13:01.180" Title="Checking squareness of a T-square" Tags="|square|try-square|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10313" CreationDate="2020-01-31T23:19:35.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An alternative to using a Forstner bit is to first drill a pilot hole, then use a counterbore tool. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Counterbore&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;See examples&lt;/a&gt;. They're typically used on steel, but they make quick work of MDF too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5796" LastActivityDate="2020-01-31T23:19:35.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10313" CreationDate="2020-02-01T00:36:31.483" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had good luck using &quot;speedbor&quot; flat spade bits.  They are boring normal flat bits but there's a cutting tang on the outer edge of both flats, and they work to cut the circumference loose before the main cutting edge lifts the swarf out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QeUBe.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QeUBe.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not a brand recommendation, there are plenty of examples at your average bigbox store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1573" LastEditorUserId="1573" LastEditDate="2020-02-01T00:50:35.573" LastActivityDate="2020-02-01T00:50:35.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10313" CreationDate="2020-02-01T00:49:30.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a young`un working in a high school, I remember making many many holes in MDF for building lab equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main weapon was a pillar drill and a suitably-sized hole saw, and a jig.  The tricks are to get the correct size saw, and to find a good speed that doesn't burn the wood.  MDF having a high glue content likes to char in the hole if you overheat it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mpr5z.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mpr5z.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The center drill bit goes through first, and the saw edge cuts into the outside.  For a good-enough finish you flip the part and come in from both sides to meet in the middle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end, you'll have a puck up the saw looking like this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gYD4W.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gYD4W.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They make great wagon wheels for the local kindergarten to hammer on, or string +glue a lot of them together on threadded rod to make handles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A last trick is to clear the chips periodically by raising the saw out, and you can also drill small through-holes in the foot of the slot to help the saw breathe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1573" LastActivityDate="2020-02-01T00:49:30.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10313" CreationDate="2020-02-01T02:09:32.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used once short auger bits with pretty good results. Be aware that they have a lot of 'grip' so to say.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;I started first with a pilot hole, just half size of the needed hole, and then 'finished' with the bit as needed/wanted.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8xQjq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8xQjq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;auger bit short&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8116" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2020-02-01T02:09:32.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10322" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-01T06:44:24.253" Score="1" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a bit new here, and I'm not sure if this is the right forum for this question, but it seems like woodworkers are probably the best people to answer a question like this, so here goes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using a laser cutter (yes, bear with me) to cut out a pattern out of 1&quot; oak board. Looks like this:&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RG74v.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RG74v.png&quot; alt=&quot;tree&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; This is essentially doing what I would do with a band saw if I could make these cuts with enough accuracy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue is, unfortunately, regardless of the settings on the laser (and believe me, I've experimented), I've been unable to cut all the way through from one side, even with multiple passes. Me being stubborn about wanting to do it this way, I've decided that I want to flip it over and etch from both sides to get the cut. In other words, reverse this pattern and cut &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; from the other side. My brute-force solution was to surround the pattern with a rectangle so that I could use the four corners to line up the cuts from both images, but with no guarantees that the cut will go all the way through, this feels useless. &lt;strong&gt;My blocker is that besides eyeballing it, I don't know how to mark up my piece or build a jig to accomplish this.&lt;/strong&gt; Anybody have expertise to share?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8214" LastActivityDate="2020-02-01T11:33:44.703" Title="Cutting a pattern the same on two sides of a board" Tags="|technique|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10316" CreationDate="2020-02-01T09:02:11.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am aware of the 3-4-5 method, but I don't feel like I can read a ruler or measuring tape to the mere thousandths that the straight edge/combo square truing methods afford. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method can in fact be perfectly accurate and was what I was going to suggest primarily, as it's one standard way of laying out for a self-built T-square, or anything where you need a large 90° drawn from scratch with accuracy&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't use a tape for this, too much wiggle room and the tab will be a hindrance, but of course you would need a 1m or yard rule instead which not everyone has or wants to get&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a clever method I am not aware of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add a lip to the straight edge you reference off so you can register the fence against the edge once the square is flipped over. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technically add two pieces, with enough space between them to easily pass the blade or beam. Although it should be doable for any woodworker to plane a scrap of wood down to a uniform thickness there's no reason not to use existing material if it's on hand and fits the bill. I'd go with tempered hardboard or MDF as, barring edge damage, these should be absolutely consistent (but confirm). The pieces can simply be glued in place with superglue, but just double-sided tape might actually be sufficient and not introduce any unevenness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is another method that may work, but no guarantees. That is to use the factory corner of a sheet of ply, MDF or particleboard. These &lt;em&gt;should be&lt;/em&gt; dead square just as the factory edges should be reliably straight, hence their commonly suggested use as the straight edge against which we test try squares etc. Again, you can't assume it's a perfect 90 so you need to check it, but how.....?&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Because I didn't have a reference square at the time I made my first wooden try squares this is the method I used. They're dead-nuts square as far as a fine pencil line can show.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Although I personally find mine indispensable. Although not a frequently used tool the few time I've needed it nothing else would do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Back to the 3-4-5 rule again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-02-01T09:02:11.030" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10322" CreationDate="2020-02-01T11:33:44.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on your bed, you can create a jig that bolts through (honeycomb) or one that sits upon (solid) in order to maintain registration. My honeycomb bed is steel and accepts powerful magnets rather well. I have aligned a work piece by surrounding it on three sides with magnets with reasonable success. One would not get tenth of a millimeter precision, but I suspect you can get away without such limitations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are able to cut through thinner material, bolt a piece larger than your tree piece and cut an L-shape or squared-off-U-shape to the size of your tree piece. Removing the cut section then allows you to place the tree in position consistently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By using the laser to create the L-shape, you are ensuring that the sides are perpendicular to each other. This does require that your work piece be square on three sides, however. If it is not, a different approach is required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For that aspect, place your work piece and cut/mark/drill four holes placed in a square around the main piece. Replace it with the bracket/jig piece, locked securely to the bed and use the same cut-file to cut/mark/drill four more holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can then pin the work piece to the jig piece with dowels, bolts, pins, etc., to ensure registration. This method requires a bit more work, but will provide greater precision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2020-02-01T11:33:44.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10325" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-02T00:15:23.453" Score="1" ViewCount="5954" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will 90&quot; L x 25&quot; W x 1.5&quot; thick butcher block table need additional pair of legs mid span, or is it stiff enough to be ok w beefy legs on ends only?  Not concerned about strength of legs, just whether table might bow without an additional set of legs in the middle.  Overbuild?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8215" LastActivityDate="2020-02-03T17:03:43.003" Title="How many pairs of legs necessary for butcher block table?" Tags="|table-making|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10325" CreationDate="2020-02-03T17:03:43.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a 90&quot; long butcher block, only having legs on the ends will be enough to support any weight that you would realistically put on it.  A solid wood top that is 1.5&quot; thick and 25&quot; wide will be very, very strong.  But...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a work surface like this, sheer strength is not the only concern.  You want the piece to feel very solid.  It is a butcher block after all, so you want it to feel very sturdy to compliment its looks.  I think that another pair of legs in the middle will be enough to stop any bounce or vibrations you would feel in the top.  More legs than that would be more of a design choice.  Sure 2 sets of legs in the middle would be super solid, but the single set of legs in the middle will get you very close to that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, it comes down to your design goals.  A fully open span could be possible if you had a thick skirt board on the top and near the bottom of the legs as well, but that extra visual thickness of the top might not be what you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1286" LastActivityDate="2020-02-03T17:03:43.003" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10329" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10330" CreationDate="2020-02-05T15:57:29.910" Score="4" ViewCount="1790" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Question&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm restoring a Record #07 hand plane (see Images section below). I&#xA;plan to use electrolysis to clean the rust out of the nooks and&#xA;crannies, and I suspect doing so might also attack the paint, which I&#xA;would have to repaint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the topcoat of the paint looks to be Roundel Blue paint made in&#xA;England. But I'm struggling to match it closely from the U.S. side. I&#xA;would rather not randomly buy paint from overseas (with shipping&#xA;costs) that look correct as presented by a website, but when actually&#xA;put to use, don't look all that good, leading to having multiple cans&#xA;lying around and wasted money and time. I don't mind the shipping cost&#xA;really, but want to avoid guesswork if at all possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The conclusion I have found from my research (see details below) is&#xA;that the type of paint, a British Standard colour BS110 that was&#xA;produced by the R. J. Stokes &amp;amp; Co. Ltd. company in England is no&#xA;longer in production.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I identify a U.S. vendor for this particular paint so I'm&#xA;pretty much guaranteed of matching it, both in its color qualities,&#xA;but also in its toughness with this particular application?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a reference to a &quot;United States the federal spec number for&#xA;Record Blue is FS 595 15056. Can anyone confirm that it is an exact,&#xA;or close enough, match to the original Roundel blue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Details&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather dated (as of 2020) information below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mig-weltding.co.uk/forum/threads/record-blue-paint-code.32682/#post-357433&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.mig-weltding.co.uk/forum/threads/record-blue-paint-code.32682/#post-357433&lt;/a&gt; (Apr 20, 2012) we see:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;'Record Blue' is actually a British Standard colour (BS110, I&#xA;  believe). It was also known as Roundel Blue around WWII time, as that&#xA;  was the colour of the blue in the RAF roundel. Stokes Paint in&#xA;  Sheffield certainly do sell it, as I bought some from them about a&#xA;  month ago for just the same purpose. I also got some Zinc metal primer&#xA;  from Stokes, as it's the recommended first coat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.recordhandplanes.com/dating.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.recordhandplanes.com/dating.html&lt;/a&gt; (guessing Dec 3, 2009 due to Internet Archive's cache of this page at &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20091203193328/https://www.recordhandplanes.com/dating.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://web.archive.org/web/20091203193328/https://www.recordhandplanes.com/dating.html&lt;/a&gt;) we see:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;PAINT COLOUR&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The planes with a painted finish were advertised in catalogues as&#xA;  Record Blue but the shade did vary over the years. The spokeshaves&#xA;  which had their numbers prefixed by 'A' were made of malleable iron&#xA;  and painted red. Cellulose paint was used pre WW2 and subsequently&#xA;  stove enamel. The name Record on bench plane lever caps was&#xA;  highlighted in orange throughout most of the production years but&#xA;  was omitted from the early 1990's. Early block planes prior to WW2&#xA;  also had Record highlighted in orange on the lever caps. It is said&#xA;  that the choice of the original blue came from the outer ring of The&#xA;  Royal Air Force roundel, such as in an archery target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The supplier and manufacturer of the paint to C &amp;amp; J Hampton was&#xA;  R. J. Stokes &amp;amp; Co. Ltd, Sheffield. The original paint colour was&#xA;  known as Roundel Blue, then Hamptons Blue and later as Record&#xA;  Blue. The reference number for this paint is &quot;BS 110 Roundel&#xA;  Blue&quot;. The BS refers to British Standard and is one of the colours&#xA;  from the very old BS381C range. Originally the paint was a&#xA;  traditional solvent bourne stoving enamel. Over the years the paint&#xA;  was re-formulated several times to reduce the solvent content and&#xA;  work at lower oven temperatures. For the last number of years there&#xA;  were two separate paint lines. One was an Epoxy Polyester power&#xA;  coating and the other a Waterbound dip coating, both of which were&#xA;  still stoved. This virtually eliminated the solvents in the&#xA;  paint. R. J. Stokes and Co. Ltd also supplied the orange paint for&#xA;  the highlighting of Record on the lever caps of the hand planes and&#xA;  block planes. The red paint on the spoke-shaves and the green paint&#xA;  for the Calvert Stevens Plane No. CS 88. Needless to say all this&#xA;  paint was developed and produced in Sheffield by&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;R. J. Stokes &amp;amp; Co. Ltd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I would like to thank Mr James Stokes for all his help and time in getting this information for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The R. J. Stokes &amp;amp; Co Ltd web site is www.rjstokes.co.uk&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the United States the federal spec number for Record Blue is FS&#xA;  595 15056. This number is a part number for Irwin Tools (US) Not&#xA;  sure if this is the later lighter blue colour that was used by&#xA;  Record/Irwin Tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I would like to Thank Mr Paul Hook, Virginia USA for this information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As of 2020, the above link now routes to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.spencercoatings.co.uk/toll-paint-manufacturing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.spencercoatings.co.uk/toll-paint-manufacturing/&lt;/a&gt; which seems like a holding company or something. I contacted them about this particular color yesterday, and they replied with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I’m afraid this product has been discontinued.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At &lt;a href=&quot;http://colorserver.net/showcolor.asp?fs=15056&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://colorserver.net/showcolor.asp?fs=15056&lt;/a&gt; we have what I&#xA;believe to be what &quot;FS 595 15056&quot; is referring to but can't be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Images&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oxd6b.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oxd6b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Record #07 hand plane&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7479" LastActivityDate="2020-02-07T02:00:31.967" Title="How to find replacement body paint for Record #07 handplane" Tags="|refinishing|paint|hand-planing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10329" CreationDate="2020-02-05T16:11:07.097" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, don't do this if you want to maintain the value of the item as a collector's piece. You can set it up and tune it and get it working again, but do not remove paint or repaint. This will make it almost valueless for collectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you just want to completely restore it so it looks nice and you don't care about the value, then read on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go to any decent paint store and they can scan the colour and give you a close match, as well as recommend the right paint and techniques. I know for a fact the Colour Your World/Dulux stores do this, for example. I can confirm that they will try to match almost any tint, even in oil enamel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An ideal application of new paint would involve:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strip the existing paint off completely&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prep the surface&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prime and &quot;etch&quot; the surface (or perhaps the enamel is &quot;self-etching&quot;, in which case this is the priming coat)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Multiple coats of paint&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each one of these steps will be informed by your choice of paint and primer, and your best bet is to get advice from the paint store folks, or the paint manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure to check for lead in the paint prior to refinishing. This will inform how aggressive you get with sand-blasting or sanding, and your cleanup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-02-07T02:00:31.967" LastActivityDate="2020-02-07T02:00:31.967" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10310" CreationDate="2020-02-05T18:54:49.380" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I say in my Comment above I suspect this is a multi-step finish and as such it is impossible to give more that guesses as to how it &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; have been done. Some experimentation will be required I'm afraid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At first glance, it looks like some kind of oil over varnish&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil is never really applied over varnish so I think you can discount that possibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me this looks like a very dark or black stain was applied to the bare wood&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; after which a topcoat was applied. The topcoat could be shellac but my bet would be that a tinted or coloured oil-based varnish, or blended finish such as &quot;Danish oil&quot;, was used. Any of the three could give the sheen seen in the photo and can be applied without spray equipment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Important note:&lt;/strong&gt; if the other pieces of furniture that you're hoping to finish to match this already have finish on them you will have to strip, scrape or sand them back to bare wood before you start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Back in the days I remember people talking about using oil (like used oil), to brush it over wood and the final effect was something similar ot this. The intention was to remove wood bug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Used motor oil can give a similar appearance to this from photos I've seen online, but I hope this would only be used on wood for exterior use&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Notice the characteristic grain reversal from dark stain applied to softwoods, where the softer earlywood (originally lighter in colour) has absorbed more stain and become very dark, while the harder and denser latewood (originally the dark stripes in the wood) are now the lighter bands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; In addition to the risk of oily/dirty transfer to clothing and soft furnishings there are toxicity concerns, and the smell might be very noticeable in an enclosed space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-02-05T18:54:49.380" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10332" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-07T02:23:36.953" Score="0" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some doors and millwork in white oak and have noticed that after we prime it, there are, here and there long thin crevices where the oak had some exceptionally deep grain and the oil-based primer just soaks into the crack and disappears, leaving a thin crevice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There seems to be three possibilities in dealing with these crevices:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;sand the primer off near the crevices, fill with wood filler, and re-prime locally&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;keep adding primer, sanding and drying, and try to fill the crevice up with primer&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;move on to the painting stage and hope that the two coats of paint will fill the crevices&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which strategy should I use? Or is there a better strategy altogether? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-02-07T17:23:09.590" LastActivityDate="2020-02-08T01:04:13.047" Title="Painting deep grain in oak" Tags="|oak|painting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10332" CreationDate="2020-02-07T17:21:56.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wood filler will stick to primer just fine.  Fill the places that need filled, sand, prime again if you think it's needed, and paint.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will take quite a few coats of primer or paint to even out the grain, and it'll never look totally perfect.  You're much better off using a filler material first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2020-02-07T17:21:56.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10293" CreationDate="2020-02-07T23:37:09.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No not really, in my opinion. From using a mortiser I know that you need an immense amount of pressure (gained through leverage, or in the case of our second mortiser we bought, compressed air power) to get through with a mortise chisel, and that's with the centre drill running. I calculated previously that I was applying several hundred kilos of downward force on my mortiser chisel, by hanging off of the end of the lever, and even then in harder woods like oak it would often get stuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were doing square holes in very thin wood (like, 5-10mm) you could probably hammer it through, but to get deeper than that you're really going to struggle with the combined friction of all 4 sides of the chisel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It strikes me as something you may be able to get to work with a lot of sweat and swearing, but suspect that you'll actually have an easier time drilling holes on a drill press and squaring them out manually with a regular chisel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2020-02-07T23:37:09.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10335" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-07T23:48:38.890" Score="0" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on a remodel job and we are having trouble getting a blotch free clear coat. We are using water based polyurethane on new cedar, no stain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8239" LastActivityDate="2020-02-14T05:03:24.937" Title="How can I get a blotch free clear coat on raw unstained wood?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10332" CreationDate="2020-02-08T01:04:13.047" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;They used to make a product called sanding sealer used to get a extremely smooth finish.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A thinned out wood filler should will also work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2020-02-08T01:04:13.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10335" CreationDate="2020-02-08T01:12:41.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may take several coats unfortunately. Due to the nature of the wood, lightly sand between coats. Maybe a clear stain would work to provide protection of the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are you making more information may help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2020-02-08T01:12:41.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10343" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10351" CreationDate="2020-02-09T02:55:04.007" Score="1" ViewCount="215" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a piece such as this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JEYSR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JEYSR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Circular base&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can this be shaped using only hand tools? Normally, a router comes to mind for something like this, or maybe a lathe, and then when you only think of hand tools, I think of hand planes like moulding planes, rounds and hollows, etc. But I've only ever seen those used on straight edges. It seems like this would be really difficult to do using those types of tools. Would they work, or is there a method to work with hand moulding convex curves like this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: This question actually comes from wondering how this was done in the 18th century. Wood turning seems like a good option, unless there are other ways to do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8242" LastEditorUserId="8242" LastEditDate="2020-02-09T03:04:05.173" LastActivityDate="2020-08-13T18:33:18.967" Title="How to make a circular base with moulding using hand tools?" Tags="|hand-tools|hand-planing|history|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10293" CreationDate="2020-02-09T11:30:06.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a way I could use that bit by hand to cut those holes? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the real answer to this is yes, because that's exactly what some craftsmen having been doing for quite a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;The accepted method for this has been to drill a round hole and use the chisel from a hollow chisel mortiser (hand held) to square up the holes. This has worked to some degree, but with limitations.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Source:&lt;/strong&gt; Daniel Peart.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not quite as straightforward as extracting the drill bit from the hollow chisel and using the latter by hand with a hammer or mallet, but that is what they were doing in a nutshell. Undoubtedly a few are still doing this despite the availability now of an alternative — a square chisel or hollow square punch as it might be called, which was purpose-designed for this job &lt;a href=&quot;https://furnituremaker.com/2010/03/10/hollow-square-punches/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;by the above craftsman&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Nt6r.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Nt6r.png&quot; alt=&quot;Square hole punches&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Original source:&lt;/strong&gt; Lee Valley.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However these don't appear to be available in metric sizes, and none of the Imperial sizes seem to me to be close enough (1/2&quot; being only 12.7mm) to be useful to you. &lt;strong&gt;So I think your first idea is the most viable for you.&lt;/strong&gt; As I say above in a Comment, a little honing may be required to get one of these as sharp as you need it to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This YouTube video was posted only yesterday on the Wood magazine channel, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vuqM0r33Gnc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How To Make Square Mortises For Faux Tenons&lt;/a&gt; showing the use of the Lee Valley punches but many of the tips would be equally useful in helping to achieving good, consistent results using the hollow mortise chisel (as well as the other tools suggested below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously doing this sort of chopping out completely manually is always an option, and for just a few on a single project this probably makes the most sense. But I wanted to include some other alternatives for speeding up the process for future searchers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Corner chisel or 'corner chisel'&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HZyxm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HZyxm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Corner chisel x2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Homemade square chisel&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This may sound out there but it's not actually outside the scope of similar toolmaking operations that woodworkers undertake now and then as the need arises&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case you'd start with a suitable size of square steel tubing, then grind, sand or file the curvature into the leading edges, then grind the interior bevel using a conical grinder of some kind followed by final honing as needed. The curvature of the cutting edges doesn't have to be as pronounced as on the commercial tools, and if the tool will be used as-is (without any hardening processes&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;) it would be better to leave the corners less pronounced anyway as otherwise they'd be prone to bending over or breaking off. Do expect to have to re-hone frequently if working with harder material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; One of the most common IME being homemade versions of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/ProductImages/assembly/185112.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; created from various types of round steel tubing, including stainless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; If the tubing is mild steel it could be made hardenable using case hardening techniques, after which it could be hardened and tempered, then honed to final sharpness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-02-09T11:30:06.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10345" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10350" CreationDate="2020-02-09T13:28:12.523" Score="1" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a riving knife for my table saw, as the one that came with it goes higher than the blade. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like a riving knife that matches the height of the blade fitted in order to resaw 8cm wide lumber in two passes, so roughly 4cm at a time. Then I'd like to use a cross cut sled and some other scenarios like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it would be easier to modify the existing riving knife I don't want to as the blade guards attach to it so I would never be able to use that feature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It isn't straightforward to find 2mm or 3mm thick aluminium or steel sheets. However, I can buy some 3mm thick Aluminium DIBOND&amp;reg; for art purposes. Will this material be suitable for making a new riving knife?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-02-10T08:01:21.500" LastActivityDate="2020-02-11T11:45:25.490" Title="Can DIBOND be used to make a riving knife?" Tags="|table-saw|tool-modification|riving-knife|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10313" CreationDate="2020-02-10T13:30:07.907" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using the tools at hand without too much mucking around, etc:  Do the first 1/8&quot; or so with the Forstner bit, then change to you spade bit to finish out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastActivityDate="2020-02-10T13:30:07.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10302" CreationDate="2020-02-11T02:21:01.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My best attempt was cutting with a thin saw the vertical cut (I used a mini Dozuki saw) followed by incisions from the side with a sharp chisel. It's important to set your depth of cut in a manner that it ends at the limit of a ply in the plywood. This will ensure a clean edge. Much cleaner than the plough plane. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also used the chisel to clean ply leftovers a bit. The big improvement is that there is almost no tear-out at the top surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jd3zf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jd3zf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sample&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastActivityDate="2020-02-11T02:21:01.777" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10345" CreationDate="2020-02-11T11:45:25.490" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Specifically the Dibond is a laminated material, that when cut to a fairly small size and required to remain rigid under varying pressures from varying directions, repeatedly, may not remain integral or rigid and have a higher potential for failure. I would also be concerned that pushing wood fibers past the laminate sheets may cause some to grab at the skin or force their way under its surface, especially over time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would prefer to find some scrap aluminum, steel or other metal.  It’s possible to recycle parts from discarded machines. There may be recycling factors where you could request a small amount of scrap material. Often, when you approach (especially smaller outfits) a metal supplier or machine shop will simply give you some cutoff material or direct you to their skip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will help you in this approach if you design the requirements for the part you intend to fashion so you can recognize and communicate what material will suffice for the project: minimum length and width, and min/max thickness. If you have a scaled drawing you can lay against a candidate piece of metal it will save time and could help someone to hand you a suitable piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4939" LastActivityDate="2020-02-11T11:45:25.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10343" CreationDate="2020-02-11T20:29:10.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without a router, something with a tight radius like this &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; be done by hand with a beading (and other) planes, but it would take a deft hand by a master. Mere mortals would make profiles that always looked hand-carved. Maybe you would choose material that like to be pared in all directions, and didn't like to split as much. Maybe walnut is right out of the question!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would take successive passes, and lots of pauses for honing. Holding the work would be a significant challenge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My best guess is that back in the day multiple similar profiles would be turned into a column using a lathe, and then slices cut from that to the right thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-02-13T04:37:36.793" LastActivityDate="2020-02-13T04:37:36.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10353" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-13T12:31:20.540" Score="1" ViewCount="2937" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a few small mid century modern style triangle side  tables. It's too expensive to buy the shaped legs. My husband can cut the board for the tops. I thought of making legs from round dowel but how do I attach them? I have an idea and want to sell them so they have to be made well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Commercially bought legs have screws in them so can be screwed into a plate. How do they get the screws into the legs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is too hard what's a way to attach the legs making it look professional underneath. I don't have any fancy equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8258" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-02-14T04:25:54.880" LastActivityDate="2020-02-14T04:25:54.880" Title="How to attach dowel legs to make a side table" Tags="|technique|furniture|table-making|dowel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10353" CreationDate="2020-02-13T18:03:58.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use an attachment plate on the bottom of the table, and then use the hanger bolt in the leg to provide a secure, removable joint.  These attachment plates are available either straight or angled, depending upon how you want the legs to go in relation to the bottom of the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/67otn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/67otn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Attachment Plate&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2020-02-13T18:03:58.190" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10355" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10356" CreationDate="2020-02-13T18:36:20.423" Score="0" ViewCount="548" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a small tabletop Moxon vise and after some research decided to finish it using a 3-part mix of equal parts polyurethane, boiled linseed oil, and mineral spirits. Sounds okay to me, but I'd like to be able to finish it in my home and the Helmsman smells too much for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some Campbell MagnaMax H2O waterborne poly that's almost odor free, and am wondering if there's any way I could use that to achieve similar results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8259" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-02-13T19:28:17.317" LastActivityDate="2020-02-25T18:17:32.617" Title="Recommended finish for workbench vise" Tags="|finish-selection|polyurethane|workbench|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10355" CreationDate="2020-02-14T01:06:00.850" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if you can mix BLO with waterborne poly, but I wouldn't really recommend it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The finish mix you mentioned is typically used when you want a wipe-on finish that provides the amber coloring of BLO and offers the added protection of a polyurethane.  To break it down, BLO is easy to apply and provides a strong amber coloring but offers little protection against scratches.  Oil-based poly provides additional protection as it is a film-based finish, but it can be difficult to apply.  Cutting oil-based poly 50/50 with mineral spirits makes it easier to apply.  This is known as &quot;wiping poly&quot; and can also be purchased pre-mixed.  General Finishes Arm-R-Seal is probably the most commonly used example of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chemistry of waterborne polyurethane is much more sensitive than oil-based poly.  I personally wouldn't recommend mixing it with anything other than water.  If you want to get the amber hue of BLO but want to use waterborne poly you will need to apply the BLO first, wait for it to completely cure, then apply the waterborne topcoat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the cure time for BLO can be quite long, on the order of 1-2 weeks.  Also, you mentioned that you wanted to avoid odors, but BLO has quite a strong odor which will be present through the entire cure time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you really want the amber color of BLO I'd just use a waterborne poly.  If you're having trouble brushing it on you can cut it with additional water to allow a wiping application.  As with any finish you're unfamiliar with, try it on a test board first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2020-02-14T01:06:00.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10335" CreationDate="2020-02-14T05:03:24.937" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Blotching comes from the wood soaking up the clear coat unevenly. That can not only be an issue with staining wood, but also natural finish in some cases, possibly due to the presence of oils. One way to minimize it would be to seal off the wood with a dewaxed shellac first. Good news, it dries fast and you can put down your polyurethane after 1 hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8259" LastActivityDate="2020-02-14T05:03:24.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9889" CreationDate="2020-02-14T05:34:57.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suppose this answer is quite a bit too late for your customer, but I think what they were after is precisely what a glaze is for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically you'd put down a clear coat to seal off the wood, then apply glaze and tool it to your desired depth. In this case I think something like Sherwood Van Dyke Brown would be a good choice. If you can't get it dark enough, put down another coat of glaze once it dries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that you can finish up with your clear coat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8259" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-02-14T14:49:11.700" LastActivityDate="2020-02-14T14:49:11.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8316" CreationDate="2020-02-16T18:17:27.440" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had one for years (just ruined it) and it works very well for heavy, rough cutting. Cuts much better on thick wood than other blades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8270" LastActivityDate="2020-02-16T18:17:27.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10360" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10372" CreationDate="2020-02-16T19:00:19.753" Score="2" ViewCount="567" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know the simple answer is to cut the slats separately and making an assembly, I've done that before. This time I want to cut it from a single piece of 3/4 plywood.&#xA;It will be approx. 3.5ft x 4ft when collapsed and approx. 6ft x 4ft extended with fingers/grooves about 1&quot; in width... I want the slats skinny as it will also serve as a table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think a jig saw is the right tool; certainly not freehand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've considered making one side (forstner bits/table saw) and using that as a router template... but that seems like it would have to be very exact and a lot of wood waste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also considered buying/using a dado blade set, but getting the step/spacing right seems problematic to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or possibly contracting it out to have laser cut... not sure if that would be cost effective, or even possible at that thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone experienced with cutting something like this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UblcE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UblcE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I have a good idea of how to do this with a plunge router and 1&quot; bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll cut the first slot using a fence attachment. And then I'll mount a 1&quot; hardwood follower to the base... (I'm ok with drilling a couple holes in it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the follower is effectively only a half fence I'll probably need to do a plunge entry for subsequent slots, and then rotate/switch directions for the exit.&#xA;I could probably use the completed half as a template, or just repeat the process. I guess I could rout both halves as a single unit and then cut it in half/assemble/trim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will definitely be time consuming and wasteful, but I think it should work; and I can make the assembly for the cost of a sheet of plywood + a 1&quot; router bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any opinions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1gx9I.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1gx9I.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, I have a 2.25HP Triton plunge router kit I can use for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8271" LastEditorUserId="8271" LastEditDate="2020-02-19T16:47:50.073" LastActivityDate="2020-02-20T07:18:22.887" Title="How to cut a pull out slat bed from a single piece of plywood?" Tags="|technique|tools|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8316" CreationDate="2020-02-17T04:48:29.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;8 Tooth blades that look exactly like that are still available in hardware stores. They are intended for cutting fiber cement siding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8259" LastActivityDate="2020-02-17T04:48:29.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10363" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-17T11:14:52.663" Score="2" ViewCount="426" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen many examples of different kinds of workbenches and instructions for building them online, and when they feature a face vise it is nearly always positioned at the left hand of the bench. Usually, no reason for this is given, but I have seen reasoning that the vise should be on the right for two reasons (sorry, read this a long time ago and I don't have a link):&#xA;1. when cross-cutting wood by hand, the board sticks out past the left hand side of the bench, you saw it with your right hand (if right handed) and then you can hold on to the sticking out part with your left hand.&#xA;2. You spend most of your time standing in front of the vise, and if right handed you can place your tools on the bench within easy reach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bench (which was left by previous owners of my house) is in the back left corner of my garage, so that the left hand side is against a wall and the right hand side is free. Due to the position of doors, this cannot easily be reversed. I hope one day to build a bench which can be raised up on casters, but for now it is what it is. I have been happily using it with a small vise attached towards the right hand side, as the left is blocked by a wall. Both the points above are slight annoyances, but no more than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have now acquired a much bigger vise (old Record 52 1/2). To fit this will require some modification to the bench structure. Before I do that, I want to check - what is the best position to put a vise if I can't put it on the left hand edge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's probably an obvious question - if I can't put it on the left, I have to put it on the right. But, I want to check in case there is some advantage to putting it in the middle, for example, or something else I haven't thought of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8275" LastActivityDate="2020-02-17T19:01:27.677" Title="Face vise position in restricted space" Tags="|vises|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10360" CreationDate="2020-02-17T13:23:22.780" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A plunge saw on a track (aka tracksaw) would be ideal for the long straight lines. Finish the corners with a jigsaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the tracksaw is unavailable and you're very comfortable with a regular circular saw, you could do it with plunge cuts. Plunge cuts have the potential to be very unsafe (exposed blade, unstable saw, kickback, etc), so please proceed cautiously. You could set up a guide that would help you stay extra straight when cutting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All this plunge stuff assumes you want to make both pieces out of one ~4x4 piece of ply. If the saw kerf (width of the blade) is an issue, you could subtly taper the fingers so they'd nest more tightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastEditorUserId="503" LastEditDate="2020-02-17T13:29:28.050" LastActivityDate="2020-02-17T13:29:28.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10365" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-17T18:55:48.487" Score="1" ViewCount="947" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically I am making a wooden tick tack toe toilet paper holder. I'm wondering how to make my gaps look seamless before I paint. This is my first time ever attempting something on my own, (at 40 yrs old... Lol) I am hoping to just smooth in some liquid nails to make the cracks and uneven edges seamless... I will try include another Pic for reference of what I'm aiming for... (&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q76Hz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q76Hz.jpg&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5ED0a.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8276" LastActivityDate="2020-02-17T18:55:48.487" Title="Trying to fill gaps with liquid nails?" Tags="|technique|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10363" CreationDate="2020-02-17T19:01:27.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Remember a workbench doesn't need a vice at all and start from there :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the nearly universal mounting of vices to Western workbenches it is hard to think outside the box but spend some time brainstorming the various ways a vice might &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; be used for holding workpieces of various types and you're sure to come up with some reasonable alternatives. The reason a no-vice bench can work, and work well, is the many other workholding solutions&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; that a bench can employ. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Die-hard vice users will often argue that all of them are dodges or make-dos that a vice can do faster or more securely, or both. But there are plenty of guys using vices without a quick-release mechanism, so holdfasts for example are far faster. And there are plenty of vices&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; which are very bad for racking when work is held to one side, so there's potential there for the vice to be neither faster nor better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mention cross-cutting of wood as one of the primary reasons for the conventional siting of vices and that's correct, but some people don't like to do much sawing of long pieces in a vice, wherever it was installed. Instead they prefer to saw low down on sawhorses (as was common in previous generations). This is not to say that a vice isn't useful for holding work for sawing, far from it, but with long pieces discounted so you're now only thinking of smaller pieces not &lt;em&gt;having to&lt;/em&gt; hold the wood to be cut in a vice begins to seem more reasonable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have now acquired a much bigger vise (old Record 52 1/2). To fit this will require some modification to the bench structure. Before I do that, I want to check - what is the best position to put a vise if I can't put it on the left hand edge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where it makes sense &lt;em&gt;to you&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW I'm a right-hander and I'd be perfectly happy to use a bench with the face vice mounted to the right side because even this is a distinct step up from a bench with no vice on it at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something else to consider is it's possible you might get on best with it installed as an end vice instead of any face-mounting option, although this can complicate installation on many benches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Got to be literally dozens, from at the very simplest the bench hook to holdfasts in wood and metal, rising planing stops (mortised into the benchtop), screw-adjusted metal planing stops, dogs or pegs/pins (and many variations of these), doghole-mounted cam clamps, various kinds of clamp hold-down including now numerous T-track types etc. etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; The majority?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-02-17T19:01:27.677" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10367" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10369" CreationDate="2020-02-17T21:17:34.973" Score="1" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm curious if there's any difference in storing / maintaining a chainsaw for occasional use in winter. I live in the northern US and temperatures are typically around freezing, with some occasional deep-freezes (-20°F / -29°C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found myself needing to run my saw maybe 2-4 times per month; aside from letting it run with half-choke a little longer to let it warm up and drying off any snow/ice that might end up on the saw (from setting it down) I haven't done anything different so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is anything else needed / recommended?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8277" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-02-19T07:55:09.153" LastActivityDate="2020-02-19T07:55:09.153" Title="Storing a chainsaw for occasional winter use" Tags="|tool-maintenance|chain-saw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10367" CreationDate="2020-02-18T06:29:09.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Add a little fuel stabilizer (e.g. Sta-Bil) to the fuel tank before putting it away for long periods of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8280" LastActivityDate="2020-02-18T06:29:09.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10367" CreationDate="2020-02-18T14:00:53.663" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For occasional use 2 stroke engines, I prefer the premixed fuel you can buy at most hardware stores and home centers.  One of the trade names is TruFuel.  It is available in either 40:1 or 50:1 mix.  The main advantage is that it is basically old fashioned unleaded gasoline with none of the additives that can be problematic for 2 stroke engines.  It doesn't seem to go bad.  I've had chainsaws sit for a year, and start on the first few pulls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than fuel and oil, there isn't much to go wrong.  We stored our saws in an unheated barn all winter and never had issues.  One mistake people make is to rev up the saw too soon.  Get it running, and let it sit at idle for 30-60 seconds while the oil warms up and gets spread to all the moving parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2020-02-18T14:00:53.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10370" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-18T16:32:08.657" Score="1" ViewCount="413" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the hinges on my piano I can see that all the screw slots are aligned horizontally. If I was to screw a piano hinge onto anything the slots would be all over the place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what is the trick for getting them aligned?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="348" LastActivityDate="2020-02-18T16:32:08.657" Title="Aligning screw head slots" Tags="|screws|hinges|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10371" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-19T20:48:09.493" Score="0" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;p&gt;I  flopped a tabletop glueup.  Clamped only from above, table saw was .5 degrees off. And the 32 pieces on each side create a &quot;bowl&quot; in the middle of about 1/4in. Ouch. What can I  do , if anything,  to straighten it out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8302" LastActivityDate="2020-02-19T20:48:09.493" Title="Herringbone maple tabletop warped" Tags="|tabletop|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10360" CreationDate="2020-02-20T07:18:22.887" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To make something like this from a single piece of ply I think the only reasonable way is by laser. This literally looked like a laser path when I first saw the image of your proposed design. Every other method I can think of, including CNC&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, would create 'kerfs' wide enough that this would be hopelessly loose and floppy — 1/8&quot; gaps? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of how practical getting it laser cut is as discussed in the Comments, availability of a suitable laser locally and then the cost are potential issues. Obviously this is ruled out in some locations where there's no laser (or none that you can find), and in others the cost could be prohibitive. Is the design worth persevering with if the table ends up costing hundreds? I wouldn't have thought so when there are other ways of working around what you want to achieve here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Not using just one piece&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Now re. your edit and the idea of using a router with a follower, obviously this is one of a few ways you could do it. In essence you're creating a very long finger joint that will just interlock flat, instead of at 90°. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By likening it to finger joints it immediately highlights a potential problem though. Finger joints can often end up being very tight and require the joint to be tapped together using a mallet or a hammer with a protective block, even as short as they are. Take that same degree of tightness and multiply it by approximately 50 and you have an interlocking thing that you either couldn't push together at all, or without damaging the material irretrievably!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you need to introduce just a smidge of slop. The easiest way to do this would be some light sanding&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. Again multiply it up and it's quite a bit of sanding..... but at least it's for a one-off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Which even if suitable could have the same potential pitfalls as a laser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Being careful to maintain square edges. There's a tip for that in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5291/cutting-dressed-pine-to-make-it-narrower/5293#5293&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-02-20T07:18:22.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10373" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10378" CreationDate="2020-02-20T13:13:19.507" Score="4" ViewCount="192" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to cut 35mm holes for European-style hinges in melamine. Because I don't have a drill press, I decided to cut the holes using a router with guide bushing and template. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty new to the router world so I don't know what is normal and what not. When I try to cut the hole with an 8 mm straight carbide bit it is almost impossible to cut it in one go (13 mm deep cut). I feel a lot of resistance and also lots of smoke comes out. I feel a 13mm deep cut in melamine should be pretty easy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible that my bit is dull (borrowed from my father in law, unknown quality) or is it standard behaviour? My router is a Makita RT0700 and it does not feel like it lacks power whatsoever...    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8304" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-02-20T13:34:25.733" LastActivityDate="2020-02-21T14:49:33.737" Title="Struggle to cut material with router, dull bit?" Tags="|router|router-bit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10374" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10382" CreationDate="2020-02-20T15:57:52.590" Score="2" ViewCount="1182" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a nice pair of custom red wooden (cedar maybe?) chopsticks I took home as a gift from an event last year and about one inch completely broke off of one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have both pieces, as it was a clean break. What is the best way to repair it so that I can continue to use it and still maintain some sort of strength/integrity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8305" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-02-20T18:53:13.567" LastActivityDate="2020-02-21T21:02:09.803" Title="Chopstick repair?" Tags="|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10376" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-20T21:31:38.753" Score="0" ViewCount="196" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll be building a small box soon, and one of the things I'll be drawing inspiration from is this photo I found online:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://trello-attachments.s3.amazonaws.com/5a18dd63bb443a875ac98bb6/5e4ee4ecdecb436520a99e92/f4234144d261381d6b805d0ac7d9a21c/image.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like the leg design of this box a lot, but it occurs to me that this is effectively an end grain to long grain joint (butt joint), or certainly no better than a miter joint, so it could benefit from some reinforcement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My stock will be in the neighborhood of 1/2&quot; thick, so there's not a lot of room to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought about maybe some sort of mitered box joint (completely invisible once assembled), but I don't have the time or the skill to cut all of the necessary mitered box joints by hand. If I can't think of anything better I might try my hand at putting together a mitered box joint attachment for my table saw box joint jig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3540" LastActivityDate="2020-02-20T21:31:38.753" Title="Reinforcing endgrain to long grain joint in thin stock, without visible splines?" Tags="|joinery|miter-joint|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10373" CreationDate="2020-02-21T09:59:31.473" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem was a dull bit, as suggested in the comments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just purchased a new CMT full carbide bit and now everything works as expected. No smoke, no burn marks, just cutting. Although even if it is now possible to cut the hole in one go I decided to cut them in two steps. I use a palm base, so it feels more secure to remove material in smaller chunks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also use a shop vac to clean sawdust between cuts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8304" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-02-21T14:49:33.737" LastActivityDate="2020-02-21T14:49:33.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10379" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-21T12:22:10.310" Score="0" ViewCount="197" Body="&lt;p&gt;First time working with wood - i CNC'd a landscape into a piece of London Plane timber but since first purchasing the wood, the left hand side of it has slowly curled upwards. Most of the curling happened over the weekend when it was left sitting on a table - oops. I assume the thinner part has dried out faster than elsewhere, causing it to shrink on the side that was exposed over the weekend. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been spraying the surface lightly with water every day, and now leaving the underside exposed. Since doing that, it appears to have unwarped by around 30%. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any further ways to unwarp this without damaging / fracturing the piece of wood?&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GLgIy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GLgIy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8308" LastActivityDate="2020-02-25T03:38:19.000" Title="Is it possible to unwarp this piece of wood?" Tags="|wood|warp|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10380" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-21T13:51:15.977" Score="-1" ViewCount="204" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on wooden handrails. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have stained them, but then my GF decided she wanted them joined together. So I used a zipbolt to join them, and then sanded down the transition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S8jFC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S8jFC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;transition&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However after I applied new stain just to transition, there are visible lines and colour differences where the two ends meet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cxNlC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cxNlC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;new stain&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I fix them without sanding down the whole rail and staining it again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used water based stain as the wood is beech and nothing else. The connection is made with zip bolt and sanded down so it is smooth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8309" LastEditorUserId="8309" LastEditDate="2020-02-26T00:15:55.413" LastActivityDate="2022-07-13T05:04:40.510" Title="How to fix lines between old and new stain" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10380" CreationDate="2020-02-21T14:48:20.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid the only real answer is &quot;strip down and restain&quot;. The filler or putty or whatever that you used will never pick up stain the same way as wood. You may be able to get away with removing all traces of finish around the joint and using a wood &quot;conditioner&quot; or &quot;priming&quot; layer prior to trying to blend in the finish, but I think there is always going to be a seam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2020-02-21T14:48:20.873" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10374" CreationDate="2020-02-21T21:02:09.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If can you properly orient the broken ends together, use a two-part epoxy adhesive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one will cure a room temperature without needing any extraordinary clamping.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B01DJC3FNE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Food-safe, two-part epoxy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7721" LastActivityDate="2020-02-21T21:02:09.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10380" CreationDate="2020-02-22T18:10:36.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that you don't want to sand down and re-stain, I'm assuming you'll be okay with a less than perfect fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In similar situations, I have used a stain that's about one shade darker, maybe not quite as dark as the darkest area in your irregularities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I did was dip a corner of my rag into the stain and then dry most of it off with a dry part of the rag, so that when you touch the rag to the wood only a small amount of stain transfers to the wood. Using this technique I try to just dab it into the lighter areas to shade the transition so it's less visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will probably take some practice, but if you take it slow you'll get there. Also, if you mess up too bad you can grab some naptha and wipe some of the stain out and try again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I said, this isn't always a perfect fix, but I'm certain you will be able to improve it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8259" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-02-22T19:08:04.253" LastActivityDate="2020-02-22T19:08:04.253" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10385" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-22T22:54:06.270" Score="0" ViewCount="1236" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heat and moisture tend to be the go-to's for effectively bending wood. Because of the finish, not much, if any moisture will be able to penetrate the wood. Can heat alone, or just a solid rig that provides enough pressure over a long period of time, effectively make a corrective bend to a board after the wood has been finished?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm fully aware that pretty much all strategies put the finish at risk, and am hoping for methods that, even if they do some damage can be remedied by some light refinishing without a full strip of the finish prior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My particular use case is a bookshelf that's got a bit of a warp in it, but I can see other folks having similar issues with any number of projects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8319" LastActivityDate="2020-02-24T20:04:41.250" Title="Can you effectively correct a warped board finished with polyurethane (or other waterproofing)?" Tags="|bending|steam-bending|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10385" CreationDate="2020-02-24T17:12:33.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Effectively&quot;?  No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theoretically it is possible to bend a piece of wood that has finish on it.  However I seriously doubt that the finish would come through the process in an acceptable state.  Typically you bend wood by immersing it in a steam bath to both saturate the fibers with water and heat the wood.  I don't think a typical poly finish would survive either the saturation or the heating without serious damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are industrial processes that bend wood without either heat or steam, but they rely on immense pressure on all sides of the material.  It would be totally impractical to recreate something like this in a hobbyist setting, and even if you could I suspect that the pressures involved would mar the finish.  (Frankly, I think the pressure on the wood in a typical steam bending rig would likely mar the finish too.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you could bend finished pieces the processes used to bend wood are not consistent enough to ensure a totally flat board when you're done.  When you release your wood from the bending rig it will not stay exactly where it was clamped.  This is known as &quot;spring back&quot;.  Even if you do a test run to determine how much spring back to expect and account for it in your bending rig it can vary widely from one board to the next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2020-02-24T20:04:41.250" LastActivityDate="2020-02-24T20:04:41.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3847" CreationDate="2020-02-24T19:24:12.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;French polish is dissolved by Metholated Spirits and can be refinished with french polishing techniques.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nitrocellulose Lacquer can be removed with lacquer thinner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And Varnish can be dissolved with acetone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top 2 fuse into each other one coat on top of the other,&#xA;Varnish tends to fuse on the second day after if the temperature is not too hot.&#xA;After the second day a fine sand is required.&#xA;Next day it can crinkle uncured varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8324" LastActivityDate="2020-02-24T19:24:12.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1698" CreationDate="2020-02-24T19:34:18.030" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are asking for the holy grail. Outdoor clears all require regular refinishing. UV tends to eat them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water-based products are less hard but with multiple coats would last longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most abrasive resistant products would be Concrete or slate sealers. Some of which could go over a water based timber coating, especially if sprayed lightly multiple times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could craze but best bet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2-pack polyurethane would be the most UV and scratch resistant. Use paint not clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8324" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-02-25T14:59:02.713" LastActivityDate="2020-02-25T14:59:02.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10390" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-24T20:14:27.397" Score="0" ViewCount="835" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to duplicate this look for a wooden coffee table:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.scandesign.com/products/porto-coffee-table&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.scandesign.com/products/porto-coffee-table&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on how I could replicate those coffee table legs other than mortise and tenon? I don't believe I have the skills for that. &#xA;Tools I have: 10&quot; sliding miter saw, kreg pocket hole jig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OAOeF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OAOeF.png&quot; alt=&quot;coffee table image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8325" LastEditorUserId="8325" LastEditDate="2020-02-25T04:18:25.303" LastActivityDate="2020-02-25T04:18:25.303" Title="How can I join 45 degree mitered boards as legs for a coffee table?" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10391" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-25T03:34:47.540" Score="1" ViewCount="2127" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to mount a baby gate but the ends require you to drill the mounts on each end directly into the wall. I was wondering if there was a way to attach a block or something to the wall with no damage tape (like command strips) and then drill the screws into that. I rent and I'm trying to do as little damage as possible. Any tips would be helpful Thanks! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it wouldn't be as sturdy, but it's just for a deterrent to keep my dog out of the kitchen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8331" LastActivityDate="2020-04-06T15:17:07.483" Title="Is there anything out there that I can attach to the wall with no-damage tape and then drill the mounting screws into that wood instead of the wall?" Tags="|wood|holes|mounting|foreign-object|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10391" CreationDate="2020-02-25T10:35:31.517" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a good approach to your restrictions. One could use a simple 1x4 from the big-box store as the intermediate block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The no-damage tape strips will hold stronger with a smooth surface. It's likely your building surface is painted and smooth enough. Consider to purchase some fine grit sandpaper (320 or so) to further smooth the 1x4 and/or paint the block to provide a smooth surface on the wood facing the wall/door frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Allow the paint to dry thoroughly, perhaps multiple days, to ensure that the paint will not release to the tapes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative to painting would be to use a laminated board such as those found in the shelf departments. The top surface is often called melamine and is smooth enough to provide a good grip for the tapes. On the downside, though, the material is usually particle board and doesn't hold screws as well as one might prefer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2020-02-25T10:35:31.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10355" CreationDate="2020-02-25T18:17:32.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that this has an answer already chosen as correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I researched this a fair bit for my workbench and decided on a mix of &lt;strong&gt;boiled linseed oil and beeswax.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can not remember the ratio, once melted together it stays a liquid but left to cool to room temp it &quot;solidifies&quot; to a soft-ish paste. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To apply you warm it back to liquid ( &lt;em&gt;not real hot but beyond lukewarm&lt;/em&gt; ) and rub it in with a rag, buffing prior to each new coat and after the final coat. Three or five coats over as many days. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Easy, protective and easy to re apply every few years with out striping. ( &lt;em&gt;well sometimes when it is really hot in the shop i do a little stripping but that is none of your beeswax&lt;/em&gt; )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2917" LastActivityDate="2020-02-25T18:17:32.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10396" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10397" CreationDate="2020-02-25T19:13:07.923" Score="1" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a little while now, I've been thinking about making a cabinet (or something) with a finely painted exterior, but a natural finish on the inside, so that there's a little hidden gem when someone opens it and sees nicely finished wood in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soon, I'll build a wall cabinet for a bathroom that I'm in the middle of remodeling right now. I'm going to paint at least the exterior to match the vanity that's already in there, and I think this painted outside/natural inside finish would be a really nice looking touch in this freshly updated bathroom if it's successful. But I'm concerned about wood movement. If there are different finish thicknesses/moisture barriers on opposite faces of the boards that make it up, I worry that uneven moisture absorption would cause the boards to warp, and the cabinet to do anything from racking to tearing itself apart. And of course, bathrooms are a particular challenge for wood movement, given their frequent, wide swings in humidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is there a decent chance of success with this, or should I save this idea for a different piece, or maybe abandon it completely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past, I've had really good results painting pieces with this finishing schedule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two coats of shellac-based primer, such as BIN&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two or three coats (as needed) of latex paint&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two to four coats of brush-on water-based polyurethane&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanding and leveling between coats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought for this project, I'd try this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two coats of super-blonde, dewaxed shellac, 1&amp;nbsp;lb. cut, applied uniformly as if I were finishing like a sane person.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Exterior:&lt;/strong&gt; two or three coats (as needed) of latex paint. &lt;strong&gt;Interior:&lt;/strong&gt; equal number of coats of the same shellac, but this time a 2 or 3&amp;nbsp;lb. cut, to try to match the thickness of the paint coats on the exterior&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Four coats of brush-on water-based polyurethane, or 10&amp;nbsp;million coats of wipe-on poly, also applied uniformly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5190" LastActivityDate="2020-02-26T08:24:26.747" Title="Would different finishing schedules inside and out spell doom for a bathroom cabinet?" Tags="|finishing|finish-selection|wood-movement|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10396" CreationDate="2020-02-26T08:24:26.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would different finishing schedules inside and out spell doom for a bathroom cabinet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short answer, no. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's quite normal for cabinets to be finished differently inside and out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's even quite common for some or all interior elements to &lt;em&gt;remain unfinished&lt;/em&gt;. If you think about it when's the last time you saw a solid-wood chest of drawers that had any finish at all on the cabinet interior? Similarly the drawer bottoms, back and insides, and often most of the sides too&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, are also very commonly left bare as well, even if the front has a fully built up finish like French polish on an older piece or a complete lacquer job on something a little more recent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What will matter&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Material selection could end up being the most important aspect of this. One should always try to build using good, stable, stock anyway of course but it would be more critical here. Given the wide swings in humidity that the piece will be subjected to it wouldn't be a bad idea to use rift-sawn or quarter-sawn material as much as you can to minimise issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously on top of this is construction. Just in general use trusted construction methods to put the thing together. For example if the doors will be frame-and-panel allow sufficient space for the panel to move as would normally be done, attach the top (if also solid wood) to allow for expansion and contraction, that sort of thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;or 10 million coats of wipe-on poly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LOL Just to mention some things that might be of value to you. You can thin less if you like, deliberately to build a little faster and if the conditions allow it. I've diluted by as little as half (1:1) and had it work fine&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. On top of this all of the excess does not need to be removed with wiping varnish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It often gets overlooked with wiping varnish that it's still varnish, which dries hard, unlike many other wipe-on finishes which are blends with oils (and now waxes) where you have to be more thorough about removing excess because they dry relatively soft, and therefore can leave a surface feeling sticky or 'draggy'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; In traditional furniture, even on high-end stuff, it's quite common to finish only a narrow strip of the sides, approximately in line with the dovetails. I've always found this odd looking myself (even when done neatly, which it sometimes wasn't!) but it is what it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; You can actually thin even less than this and still get away with applying a varnish as wiping varnish, although I would reserve this for smaller pieces, or select easier-to-finish parts of something. The less dilute the varnish the more important it is to wipe excess off however, otherwise you lose any advantage of applying the finish in this manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-02-26T08:24:26.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10391" CreationDate="2020-02-26T09:22:03.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought I'd expand on my Comment as well as provide a direct solution to the your query, although I'm not certain it's the best way to go about this. But it is what you asked and that's what we're set up to provide Answers to, as much as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I was wondering if there was a way to attach a block or something to the wall with no damage tape (like command strips) and then drill the screws into that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It occurred to me that this could be an another application for a trick used by some woodworkers — tape and superglue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is covered in a previous Answer to this Q, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2752/how-do-i-temporarily-attach-two-pieces-of-wood-together-for-machining&quot;&gt;How do I temporarily attach two pieces of wood together for machining?&lt;/a&gt; but to briefly describe it here, you put masking tape on both surfaces to be joined, burnish it down well (use the bowl of a spoon or the back of a nail if your nails are strong), then apply enough superglue to the tape&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, carefully position and press the two pieces together for a handful of seconds and you're done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm reasonably confident this would work for this, because pieces joined this way for other purposes in woodworking (routing, some sawing tasks) can be tested and a very serious attempt to pull the pieces apart won't separate them, as you'll see, yet some levering at the edges can still separate them with surprising ease&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I'm not certain this is the way to do this. The reason being that tape applied to paint over long periods has a habit of peeling paint off when it is finally removed (something many will know from their teenaged years with posters on the wall). Since this is a long strip of tape the amount of paint that might be removed isn't inconsiderable and could leave a far larger cosmetic defect than you're trying to avoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I would suggest instead&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Just use screws. I know you've asked for a workaround because you're renting but check your lease, you might find one isn't necessary. Many rental agreements do allow for picture hanging and other simple things that require drilling into the wall, with the expectation that they'll be dealt with along with other touchups to paint here and there (due to normal wear and tear) before the next tenant moves in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Screws only leave small neat holes in the plasterboard that are easily patched with a little spackle and after a lick of paint the repair can be practically invisible, even higher up on a wall where people do tend to look. Who scrutinises walls down around their knees inside a door opening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; You don't want to use so much glue that it risks squeezing out at the edges, but don't skimp on it either. A single wiggly bead up the centre, or drops applied in a zigzag manner along the length of the tape is usually about right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Because you'll be levering against a wall you'll want to protect that from the screwdriver or table knife you're using to lever. One of the best ways to do this is using another woodworking tip, by interjecting a putty knife or something similar so you're levering against the steel surface and not directly against the plaster, &lt;a href=&quot;https://chiefsshop.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/pullingbrads.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; is the only related pic I could find just now but you get the idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-02-26T09:22:03.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10400" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10401" CreationDate="2020-02-27T16:27:50.813" Score="2" ViewCount="882" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am installing new butcher block-style counters in my kitchen.  The new sink has a flat flange around the edge. (It is made to work as as undermount or a drop-in.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to drop in the sink. Ideally, I'd like the top of the sink flange to be flush with the top of the counter. I'm wondering what is the most precise way to shave 1/16&quot; (or less) of the countertop down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figured I would drop the sink in its cutout, then use a utility knife to trace around the flange. Then remove the sink, and shave down the counter between the scribe mark and cutout. Any tips on how to remove just a tiny amount of countertop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A router seems like more tool than you want in this situation, but maybe it could be adjusted to make such a shallow cut?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A chisel seems like it would be hard to control for such a shallow cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I want to use a hand plane along my knife edge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Background: My butcher block is from IKEA. It has a beautiful walnut herring bone pattern. Over particle board. The veneer is plenty thick, and my kitchen sees more microwaving than baking from scratch, so I think it will last just fine. But under-mounting the sink isn't an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8339" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-03-05T07:54:25.407" LastActivityDate="2020-03-05T07:54:25.407" Title="Creating a shallow recess in Ikea countertop for sink flange" Tags="|router|chisel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10400" CreationDate="2020-02-27T18:59:13.323" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A router would be the normal tool to use for this.  You could also use a router plane if you prefer hand tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scoring a line around the outline of the flange is a good idea.  Cut out most of the waste with the router then clean to the line with a sharp chisel.  Referencing the chisel on the flat left by the router should let you continue the flat surface very accurately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can set the router to the exact depth of the sink flange by first &quot;zeroing&quot; the depth by putting the base on a flat surface and plunging the router bit to touch the surface.  Then capture the flange between the router's depth stop and the turret the depth stop hits.  Lock the depth stop, then when you plunge the bit will be exactly the depth of the flange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you're not removing much depth you can use a larger bit to get a cleaner bottom surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2020-03-03T16:03:53.577" LastActivityDate="2020-03-03T16:03:53.577" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10402" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-29T02:49:35.417" Score="0" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bed sits on a frame, so there are no legs to put off the shelf raisers , I am thinking of cutting a lap on 4x4 to the width of bed frame and fastened it with two bolts, for good support I am hoping 4 on corners and one on each side in middle of frame &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is this feasible approach and will it provide sufficient structural support?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8343" LastEditorUserId="8343" LastEditDate="2020-03-01T16:24:08.210" LastActivityDate="2020-03-01T16:24:08.210" Title="Custom risers for bed without legs" Tags="|technique|wood|furniture|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10403" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10452" CreationDate="2020-02-29T23:08:51.080" Score="2" ViewCount="295" Body="&lt;p&gt;This plane is listed on ebay as a carriage-maker plane but it does not look like one (i.e.: when I think carriage maker I think a jack plane size that can do rebates).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone explain why the sole looks like it is protruding and has those strange rounded sides (almost coffin shaped) and that weird metal inset?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Df40.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Df40.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Weird plane sole&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7964" LastActivityDate="2020-03-23T03:41:35.203" Title="Can anyone explain how this plane could be used?" Tags="|plane|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10405" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10406" CreationDate="2020-03-01T10:14:25.873" Score="1" ViewCount="266" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any tips on how to do what I'm asking are welcome, but first of all I would like to ask for the correct terminology (because not knowing it prevents me from even Googling myself).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe the title is not totally clear (because I don't know the right term), so let me explain in detail:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;suppose you have a thicker plank or other dimension lumber, something like this &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k5cua.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k5cua.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;log&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;now let's say, you want to make the middle part more deep in a rectangular area, but not cut completely through the lumber, like this:&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;              +---------------------+&#xA;              |                     &amp;lt;------ untouched part&#xA;              | +-----------------+ |&#xA;              | |                 | |&#xA;              | |               &amp;lt;---------- deeper, flat, but not   &#xA;              | |                 | |       cut through surface&#xA;              | |                 | |&#xA;              | |                 | |&#xA;              | |                 | |&#xA;              | |                 | |&#xA;              | |                 | |&#xA;              | |                 | |&#xA;              | |                 | |&#xA;              | |                 | |&#xA;              | |                 | |&#xA;              | +-----------------+ |&#xA;              |                     |&#xA;              +---------------------+&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One example use case, just to give an idea, would be building a table top from which the tools (like screw drivers, pencils, etc.) cannot roll down.&#xA;(The actual use case I'm planning to do, is building a base for a power-strip, inspired by &lt;a href=&quot;https://diy.stackexchange.com/a/138302/48568&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Questions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What is this process called? (I thought I remembered something like &quot;embeveling&quot;, but that is not the correct word, because it means &quot;chopping off the edge at a degree.) -- This is actually the most important.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What tools can be used to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What is the procedure for doing this?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2382" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-03-02T15:57:17.750" LastActivityDate="2020-03-02T15:57:17.750" Title="Cutting a rectangular hollow into lumber -- what is the correct term?" Tags="|terminology|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10405" CreationDate="2020-03-01T11:52:55.267" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some of the words that fit your objective are mortise and recess. Typically a mortise is an opening cut part way into wood to receive a tenon to create a strong joint. A mortise is described also as a recess. You can also use inlay to find other useful references.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a large area project as you describe, a set of chisels and gouges would be useful if you intend to perform this action using hand tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RDzuY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RDzuY.png&quot; alt=&quot;wood chisels for carving&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A method using power tools requires either a router table or a router jig. One could attempt the process without either, but the depth of the recess would be inconsistent and may not result in an acceptable appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more comprehensive answer can be found on &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3029/how-to-make-a-recess-in-a-board&quot;&gt;this SE&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2020-03-01T11:52:55.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10407" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-01T20:04:26.093" Score="-1" ViewCount="2862" Body="&lt;p&gt;What´s the best tool to make the corners of planks rounded:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Yq7V.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Yq7V.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HwKFW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HwKFW.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5947" LastEditorUserId="2917" LastEditDate="2020-03-02T06:16:43.687" LastActivityDate="2020-03-04T09:15:05.753" Title="Making corners of wood planks rounded" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10408" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10410" CreationDate="2020-03-01T21:02:34.430" Score="0" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently purchased a mini metal lathe. I've finished unpacking it and I've noticed that it's come coated in Cosmoline or some other packing grease like another of my tools. In the past I've just wiped the tool down with paper towels but given this was a slightly more expensive purchase I'm wondering what the proper way to handle this is? I've read that Kerosine based WD-40 is good for removing it, is that true? Is there anything that I should put on it instead that will still protect it while allowing me to use it and not affect work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5575" LastActivityDate="2020-03-02T01:29:05.940" Title="Preparing New Tool for Use and Ongoing Care" Tags="|power-tools|tools|tool-maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10407" CreationDate="2020-03-01T22:20:00.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For rounding the long edge of a board to a small diameter (aka taking the edge off)): use handheld router with a round router bit that has a stopping bearing: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cmtorangetools.com/eu-en/contractor-router-bits/roundover-and-beading-router-bits_2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;something like this&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For rounding the short edges: use a handheld router with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cmtorangetools.com/eu-en/contractor-router-bits/pattern-router-bit_2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;straight pattern bit&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cmtorangetools.com/eu-en/systems-and-accessories/12-corner-radius-router-template-set&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;corner template&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8352" LastEditorUserId="8352" LastEditDate="2020-03-02T06:59:07.823" LastActivityDate="2020-03-02T06:59:07.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10408" CreationDate="2020-03-02T01:29:05.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just about any grease or petroleum removal liquid will do a decent job of cleaning the ways and other contact parts. The key aspect of this cleaning process is to lubricate and protect those surfaces once the gunky sticky preservative is removed. Straight kerosene will work just as well as expensive WD-40.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of lubricants well suited for lubricating the ways. You want something that will protect from rust, but not collect dust and dirt and debris. I'm a big fan of Boeshield T-9, a wax based lubricant in a solvent. It's a supreme rust protector and a very slippery lubricant. Debris brushes off easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll also benefit from checking the 'net for unpacking videos for your lathe. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mini-lathe.com/Default.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Frank Hoose&lt;/a&gt; may be the best producer of valuable mini-lathe information, including how to unpack, clean and tune your machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above link has multiple levels, including a link to his great YouTube videos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7zatR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7zatR.png&quot; alt=&quot;Frank Hoose Minilathe&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2020-03-02T01:29:05.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10407" CreationDate="2020-03-02T06:45:19.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now that is has been clarified that you mean the corners (not the edges or arrises) my Answer needs to be completely revised. It still depends on the radius you want. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Very small radii&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you want to just round your corners slightly, say to a radius of 1-3mm arguably the easiest and simplest method is just to sand them (or by filing if you use files). You have to be careful if you want a very uniform result regardless of the method used but in general you can do this successfully by eye. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's fairly easy to do this sanding by hand sanding using a block to back the abrasive paper. You can also do this by rotating the piece against a disk sander (one of the most common uses for this tool). This is also possible using a belt sander but much more care needs to be taken as it's very easy to remove more wood than intended, or to end up with an asymmetrical curve which looks terrible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Larger radii&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you want a larger radius it's a very good idea to mark the workpiece to give you lines to work towards, unless you're using a method (e.g. a router template) that automatically creates a radius of a fixed size. Woodworkers are rather famous for just grabbing something round in the workshop and drawing around it, washers, bottle tops and spraycan caps all being favoured for this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For these larger radii many methods are available. You can still remove the wood entirely by sanding if you want, but this is only really practical using power sanding. Even doing a sizeable radius many owners of disk sanders or horizontal belt sanders will remove all the wood by sanding it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the absence of a power sander the most common method today would be using a router and a template of some kind. Templates can be made in the shop but there are numerous commercial versions, and as you can see they can be used on the router table or using a handheld router:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tKmf3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tKmf3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Round corner router templates&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Note the Woodpeckers template shown isn't for a fixed radius, it has replaceable inserts that cover a wide range of radii. This template is retired however, but a version of it returns to production periodically. So it may or may not be available when you read this!&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a lot of wood to remove in one pass using a router, it wouldn't be a bad idea to cut a 45° off the corner prior to routing to ease the load on the bit. Just be careful not to cut too much off!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bandsaw or jig saw are also possibilities for cutting round corners, but there's often a definite limit on the safe size of the workpiece that can be tackled on a bandsaw. You'd normally sand to refine the surface after either operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using hand tools, the traditional method for removing the wood is to chisel down vertically, see image in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2394/what-hand-tools-to-use-for-rounding-edges-and-creating-pockets/2397#2397&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt; and this is still a viable method, if a bit slow in thicker and harder woods. Your chisel needs to be very, very sharp. Although in the past the slightly faceted surface created would often have been left as it was these days it would be normal to sand to fully smooth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also rasp the bulk of the wood away (being careful initially to rasp off the edge towards the end grain, never the other way around or you'll get terrible splintering), then switch to files to complete the smoothing followed by scraping and/or sanding to create the final surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-03-04T09:15:05.753" LastActivityDate="2020-03-04T09:15:05.753" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10413" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10417" CreationDate="2020-03-02T18:42:48.753" Score="4" ViewCount="4107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to glue four timber beams side by side, stain them and fix some voids with epoxy resin. What is the best order to do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each beam measures 150x150x600mm and is made from beech.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some voids are 600mm long and up to 15mm wide. Some voids are very small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to use PVA glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a picture. The ruler is in cm and 60cm long (in this picture).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U4WYd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U4WYd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7840" LastEditorUserId="7840" LastEditDate="2020-03-03T09:54:51.470" LastActivityDate="2020-03-04T06:44:26.860" Title="In which order should I glue, stain and apply epoxy resin?" Tags="|staining|glue|epoxy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10415" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-03T02:05:37.107" Score="3" ViewCount="949" Body="&lt;p&gt;My dining table has a split, for which I recently &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/10246/fixing-table-crack-and-ridge&quot;&gt;posted a question&lt;/a&gt; asking how to repair it. I received a number of suggestions to post details of the table's construction, especially how the top is attached to the framework underneath. The intent was to review how to prevent further cracks from opening in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following are a number of photos. As far as I can tell, the construction was done in such a way as to allow moderate expanasion / contraction. But please let me know if there is anything about the construction that lends itself to cracking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tSrhz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tSrhz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;leg support&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IgoVK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IgoVK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cross beams&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rs5cA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rs5cA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;expansion joint&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1ZebW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1ZebW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;assembly&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hv0wX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hv0wX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;area under main table top crack&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8138" LastActivityDate="2020-03-08T03:53:28.477" Title="Why does my teak dining table have splits?" Tags="|tabletop|wood-movement|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10415" CreationDate="2020-03-03T08:06:57.170" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The top is attached (at least in part) using buttons, although it's hard to tell what's going on with the cross-bracing framework. Buttons are one of the established ways of allowing for seasonal changes in the width of a tabletop. These ones are crude though, and as a result may not allow sufficient movement. The ones on the sides in particular must allow for the button to move into and out of their respective slots far enough to account for half of the total movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pictures 3 and 5 seem to show that the buttons could be the cause. In no. 3 the shoulder of the button is hard up against the apron, and in the fifth image it looks like the tongue of the button is a very tight fit in its slot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The joints are part of the problem&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The fact that the tabletop had glue-line failures is another piece of evidence. It indicates that the glued joints are weaker than they should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the glued joints are done properly when there is a movement issue while the tabletop might still split the cracks will completely ignore the joints, because well-made glued joints are literally stronger than the wood around them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The glue itself or the glueing technique used may be at fault here. Teak is a tropical wood and like many tropical woods it has a certain natural oily/resinous nature which means it can be tricky to glue well. Solvent-cleaning of joint surfaces just prior to glueing is a common recommendation when working with such woods. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-03-03T08:06:57.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10413" CreationDate="2020-03-04T06:44:26.860" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since it doesn't relate to the other things we're discussing in the Comments we can go ahead and Answer the main query you posted here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In which order should I glue, stain and apply epoxy resin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The normal construction order would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;assemble — glue together in this case&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;do any filling that's needed — epoxy in this case&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and then stain if you're intending to stain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;application of final finish as the last step.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You fill before staining because you generally have to do quite a bit of surface work — primarily sanding these days — to make fills flat and flush with the surface of the surrounding wood. If you stained first you'd just expose bare wood (irregularly) during this flushing work because the penetration of colouring agents into wood is usually &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; shallow&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A quick note on making the epoxy flush&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I would advise looking into scraping here if you don't already use scrapers. Scraping is something I promote as much as possible anyway&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; but many experienced epoxy users swear by scrapers (of various types) to remove excess epoxy. I'm personally in favour of hand planing to get flush or nearly flush, followed by scraping or minimal sanding as needed, but would only recommend this if you already have a hand plane and know how to use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Even products promoted as having &quot;deep penetration&quot;. This is only deep by comparison to other stains that penetrate even more shallowly!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Because scraping is better than sanding a lot of the time (faster, more efficient and leaves a better surface). Plus in the long term it is nearly unbelievably cheaper — one card scraper is equivalent to an almost infinite stack of sandpaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-03-04T06:44:26.860" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8272" CreationDate="2020-03-06T16:21:08.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: remove the finish, smooth gluing edges, glue, and clamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Longer answer: apparently what is being joined are two slightly irregular surfaces that cannot be smoothed ideally. Recommended solution is to remove as much of the finish as possible (scraping should be more than enough removal) and epoxy the joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-03-06T18:28:57.017" LastActivityDate="2020-03-06T18:28:57.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10421" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-07T17:34:20.447" Score="2" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a jewelry artist who recently started working with wood. I have used a gold stamping ink to lightly cover a few pieces, allowed to dry completely for 24 hours and then started doing mist coats of Watco semi-gloss lacquer on them. It seems that after the 6th coat (over 2 days) the pieces went from feeling almost cured to gummy. I have hung them in a box and pointed a fan at them for going on 3 days now. Some pieces have cured but others have not hardended even a little bit. Any advice for me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8369" LastActivityDate="2020-03-07T17:34:20.447" Title="Watco lacquer still gummy after 4 days" Tags="|finishing|technique|wood|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10415" CreationDate="2020-03-08T03:53:28.477" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are going to need to find someone that can take this apart and re-glue it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The last photo shows what appear to be water spots around the glue joint.  It looks to me like some quantity of water was introduced to the top of the table and it soaked into the joint causing the wood to expand.  Then, when it dried, the glue joint pulled apart because it had been weakened by exposure to water.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8370" LastActivityDate="2020-03-08T03:53:28.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7151" CreationDate="2020-03-09T05:46:28.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Howards is (I presume we're talking about the same Howard's) &quot;Howards FEED-N-WAX&quot; (google it), it is an &quot;original blend of beeswax, Brazilian carnauba wax, mineral oil, and orange oil&quot;.  It smells great and it easy to use (like any of the oils).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used it and I like it but I'd worry that it would wear off (the wax would) and leave no protection.  That might not be an issues for a bed (table, countertop, sink surround certainly an issue).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember mineral oil does not &quot;dry&quot; or evaporate it just sits there so repeated washings will remove it - again not a problem for a bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used Howards on old redwood walls that had become scuffed and dingy over the years.  A light sand and the Howards did a beautiful job revitalizing that wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8375" LastActivityDate="2020-03-09T05:46:28.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10424" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-09T18:12:03.527" Score="0" ViewCount="253" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to have some frames made which will have fabric stretched tight around them, so they are not actually picture frames, but what artists call &quot;stretchers&quot;. Some of them are large, about 8 feet square, so I need a strong wood that will not warp, so maple is out. What are my best options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2020-03-11T16:48:59.033" Title="Best wood for large picture frame (cost not a factor)" Tags="|wood-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10425" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-09T18:35:20.033" Score="8" ViewCount="4594" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are in the planning stages of building a new house that will include a 'workspace', which will be used primarily for woodworking (among other things).  I would like to make sure I design this workspace around any future needs I may have.  Right now it's in the plans as an empty 11' x 13' room (10' ceiling) with a garage door to the outside and a laundry tub in the corner.  The primary function of this workspace was to allow me to woodwork through the winter, but now I see additional value as an area to install or store a system to help work with overly-heavy slabs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shortly after moving in I'd like to begin making some larger pieces, starting with a 14' live edge dining room table.  Online calculators are telling me that a slab large enough to work into this will weigh in the 500+ lbs range.  So far I have worked with some heavy pieces, but nothing beyond 100-odd lbs; until this point I could always manually carry the slab in and out and flip it using my own strength.  I'm aware of the math, but cannot expand my workspace; I will either need to work with this particular slab outside or choose a smaller size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What options are available for working with slabs like this that cannot be managed with brute strength?  This would include both machinery (like some sort of hoist) or techniques (force multipliers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expect to have the following needs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ability to work with slabs alone, without a second person available.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moving a slab from storage (possibly along the side of the workspace) to a working area (possibly in the middle of the workspace).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flipping a slab so that I can work on both sides.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moving a slab from a pickup truck to my storage space upon delivery.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moving a slab outside would be a bonus, so I can spray coatings, sand, etc without worrying about dust and fumes so much.  Also so I can work with slabs larger than my workspace.  So mobile equipment is preferable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reasonable cost (under $3,000)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2020-04-15T06:18:17.210" Title="As an individual woodworker, how do you work with slabs that are too heavy to lift?" Tags="|tools|live-edge|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10425" CreationDate="2020-03-09T19:35:25.640" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;An engine hoist may be useful for the tasks you require. A typical hoist has gear designed to bolt into an engine block, which would also mean you'd have to either drive screw eyes (strong ones!) into your slab or build a bracket around it to which you would attach the lift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine hoists are usually mobile and some will disassemble easily enough for storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One can go on the cheap buying from a Harbor Freight type of operation, or hit a middle ground with likely better components and longer life. Amazon has a reasonably priced model with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B01KP68CF8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;two ton capacity&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The photos show a respectable range of travel for the vertical component:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IwPEX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IwPEX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;engine lift&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A great feature visible in the photos is that you pull a couple of pins and the outrigger legs fold vertically while the boom lowers to keep the center of gravity within the remaining wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For solo operation, you may find it necessary to attach and lift one end as high as practical, block it securely at that level and lift the other end, block it, then place your screw eyes or bracket assembly in the middle. Time consuming, perhaps, but can be a safe procedure to accomplish your objectives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For managing a flip-over, especially with your budget, an investment of a second lift of the same type would permit you to elevate both ends. It would require a bracket for each end that permits rotation, but that could be done without if you use a ledge/bench/blocking on one side of the slab. As it is lowered, it will drop at a tilt approaching vertical. You would then be able to manually push it over vertical and the lowering process would complete the flip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As noted, safety should be a consideration, but I believe that with patience and an eye towards hazards, one could accomplish your goals. These lifts are presented as a preliminary concept, not a complete solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also prefer to accomplish sometimes challenging tasks solo. Newton's laws and various mechanical devices usually work out well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastEditorUserId="3985" LastEditDate="2020-03-09T20:50:21.090" LastActivityDate="2020-03-09T20:50:21.090" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10425" CreationDate="2020-03-09T19:41:10.200" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;To be honest, moving a 500 lb slab of wood by yourself sounds very dangerous. If you're the only one home and you manage to drop it on yourself, you could end up rather dead, and nobody wants that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; sturdy cart with locking wheels to move the piece around on and a second to provide stability when you're working on the piece. Put one cart in the center for movements, then one at each end for working. Having a cart at each end means that it will likely be hard to steer straight when you're pushing (since this would be very difficult to pull, I'd imagine), so a single cart gives you only one point to pivot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll probably want some sort of hoist with a spreader bar and canvas slings. The hoist will only lift at one point - the spreader bar will take that central lifting point and make 2 lift points out of it from which you can then sling your lumber. Obviously, you'll want fabric slings, not chains, so as to not damage the wood. If the slings are long enough, I envision you being able to lift the piece then flip it in the slings, then lower it back to your work supports. How well that will work, solo, in practice? I'm not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get the slab from your truck into the workshop... Wait, you're going to put a 14' long slab of tree into an 8' pickup truck bed? I'm envisioning the front of the slab on the bed of the truck, right behind the cab. With either the tailgate raised and the slab at an angle, or with the gate down and the slab flat, you're going to have a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of overhang! To the point of risking it tipping out when you hit bumps. Assuming (with all inherent danger) that you get it home safely and without damage, back the truck up to the garage door, put your cart under the edge and muscle the slab out of there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd strongly suggest offering some pizza and beverages of choice to a couple of buddies to come help you out when you need to move the thing. &lt;em&gt;Especially&lt;/em&gt; if this is a 1-time event. The amount of money that you'd fork out for the specialized tools to do this safely would most likely significantly exceed the cost of a couple of dinners. Even in that situation, you'll still want something with wheels to move it - carrying that much weight is difficult - more so with people who don't do it regularly and have a routine down. With a cart under each end and a person at each end to steer, moving it around should be easy(ish).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2020-03-09T19:41:10.200" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10424" CreationDate="2020-03-10T03:34:29.717" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stretchers have been constructed from wood for centuries, so there are &lt;em&gt;many&lt;/em&gt; references out there. But the defining qualities of appropriate wood for stretchers is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Relatively cheap and abundant&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Relatively knot free and reasonably true&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll find the most &quot;heavy duty&quot; stretchers you can buy from the fanciest art supply houses are usually made from material like clear pine. Key parts like braces and (especially) corners are often hardwood. But, by and large, most modern stretchers are mostly made of clear pine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The strength and stability comes more from the construction, not necessarily the material. Though, obviously, clear pine is chosen over construction grade because if it does want to move, it'll &lt;em&gt;probably&lt;/em&gt; move as one piece in a consistent manner. Less likely to split through a knot, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it's the joinery, bracing, and technique of keeping most members under tension that makes the biggest difference to long-term stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, the largest installations now call for steel or aluminum stretchers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-03-11T16:48:59.033" LastActivityDate="2020-03-11T16:48:59.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10425" CreationDate="2020-03-10T15:44:25.297" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;as far as moving the slab to and from storage. having some sort of clamp with wheels seems like a common solution to moving them with only one person. i have watched this guys videos before and seen him use it to move very large slabs easily.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dZFruJITY2w&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dZFruJITY2w&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8382" LastActivityDate="2020-03-10T15:44:25.297" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10425" CreationDate="2020-03-10T16:19:50.230" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The piece of wood you are talking about is bigger then your work area (14 foot slab in a 13 foot area) Realistically in your current shop space you are not going to be able to work with any wood that you can't handle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heck even ripping a an 8 foot 2x4 into a couple of 1x4s is beyond what your shop can handle, without opening the doors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Right now it's in the plans as an empty 11' x 13' room (10' ceiling) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to work with that big slab of wood, you are going to need to do it outside or in the garage.  Get your self a small utility trailer &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.harborfreight.com/1720-lb-capacity-48-in-x-96-in-super-duty-folding-trailer-62647.html?_br_psugg_q=trailer&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;like this one&lt;/a&gt; Build a frame to keep the wood off the fenders and/or tires and work on there, you will also want some jack stands to stabilize the trailer. It is remarkably easy to push one of these small trailers around when it has a balanced load. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately you could get a used boat trailer that would be longer.  But in many locations a brand new inexpensive utility trailer can be more cost effective. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have one of these folding trailers, and I really like it.  It folds up and sits in the back of my garage, using about 18 inches by 5 feet of floor space. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2020-03-10T16:19:50.230" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10425" CreationDate="2020-03-10T16:32:42.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have absolutely no experience with any of this, but if I wanted to do this, I &#xA;would be dreaming about an electric &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Overhead_crane&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;overhead traveling crane&lt;/a&gt;.  (There is a fairly comprehensive write-up with nomenclature and design considerations &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cedengineering.com/userfiles/Overview%20of%20Eclectric%20Overhead%20Traveling%20Cranes.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, I am sure your can find a lot more information on the web.)  While these things are mostly used in industrial environments, there are some 1000-lb/half-ton versions available that may fit your bill (simple versions under USD 1000; one brand is SnapTrac [no endorsement, just an example I found]; of course there would be installation costs as well).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Provided your ceiling or walls can take the weight (an important consideration!), it would allow you to move the slab around your work space (even without having to clear stuff off the floor).  Since you will have a garage door, you can drive the bed of a pickup into your space and use the crane for (un)loading.  If you need the slab outside temporarily, use the crane to load it onto a sturdy cart (as suggested by FreeMan) and wheel it out.  To attach the slab to the hook of the crane you would probably use some sturdy straps, but I am sure you can figure that out.  Flipping the slab would take some creativity (may be lifting, rotating until it stands on the edge, setting it down and holding it carefully while switching the hook to the other side ...), but you have a much better shot at it once you can lift it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8384" LastActivityDate="2020-03-10T16:32:42.053" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9688" CreationDate="2020-03-15T22:19:12.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rbnainfo.com/product.php?productLineId=441&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; lists more ingredients in Old English Scratch Cover than the MSDS, which lists only d-Limonene.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Intentionally Added: C13-14 Alkane; Asphaltic Black Oil; Fragrance/Parfum&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fragrance Component: d-Limonene; Dl-Limonene (Racemic); Orange Oil, Sweet, Terpenes; P-Mentha-1,3-Diene; Terpinolene&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8399" LastActivityDate="2020-03-15T22:19:12.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10437" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-17T20:05:48.637" Score="1" ViewCount="81" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on redoing a 3x3 butcher block and turning it into a craft table for my granddaughter and she wants a nice finish on it.  What is patting on poly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8403" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-03-18T13:45:37.947" LastActivityDate="2020-03-18T13:45:37.947" Title="What is patting on poly, What material is needed and how do i do it and is it better than using a brush?" Tags="|finishing|technique|varnish|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10437" CreationDate="2020-03-17T22:39:06.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The word you're looking for is &quot;pad&quot;, not &quot;pat&quot;.  What this is referring to is an &quot;applicator pad&quot;.  This term is not normally used as a verb (i.e. you wouldn't say &quot;padding on poly&quot;.)  Rather it is a tool used to apply finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An applicator pad is a thick cloth or fiber bundle that would be soaked with finish and then wiped over the surface you're applying that finish to.  They are normally considered disposable as they're more difficult to clean than a brush.  You can also make your own by folding a paper towel over several times.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Applicator pads are normally used with thinner finishes than a brush would be, such as thinned &quot;wiping poly&quot; or shellac.  Because they require lower viscosity finishes they apply thinner coats.  This requires more applications for the same amount of build, but tends to be easier due to the low amount of fluid on the surface which prevents runs and brush marks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, since they do not have handles of any sort you have to wear gloves when using them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2020-03-17T22:39:06.490" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10439" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10440" CreationDate="2020-03-18T15:38:08.350" Score="1" ViewCount="2035" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the planning stage of building a shed. I would like to be able to use a table saw and various other tools (drill press, router table, compound miter saw, etc). Would a 20x12 shed be big enough? I would like room to grow a little but space is a limiting factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="447" LastActivityDate="2020-03-19T02:16:31.783" Title="Is a 20 ft by 12 ft workshop a good size for a woodworking shop?" Tags="|shop|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2020-03-21T14:22:53.733" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10439" CreationDate="2020-03-18T21:01:05.717" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would a 20x12 shed be big enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes! You can do woodworking in almost any sized space, but 20x12' is practically king-sized compared to what some of us have. There is no reason you can't have a shop in a corner of a garage that you share with a car, or a part of a basement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice is to start slow. Don't buy equipment just to own it. Have your projects &lt;em&gt;earn&lt;/em&gt; that equipment. Start with hand tools and some common useful power tools. Use those tools to build some tool storage and work areas. Learn how to design to maximize your workspace. Figure out how to put stuff on wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are scads of &quot;small hobby wood shop&quot; sites on the internet and YouTube. See what others are doing. There are all kinds of free plans out there that you can use to turn almost any small space into a functional shop. There has never been a better time to dive as deep as you want into woodworking! Don't let some notion of square footage and the dream of what tools you want &lt;em&gt;tomorrow&lt;/em&gt; interfere with the chips you can make &lt;em&gt;today&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2020-03-18T21:01:05.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10439" CreationDate="2020-03-19T02:16:31.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should be very adequate along with jdv suggestions&#xA;Suggestions 1) insulate and heat (maintain 50* or so temp) your building (and cover the walls) for your comfort and a stable environment for your tools* and supplies 2) a minimum of an 8' ceiling 3) all of your equipment on wheels and the same table height if possible 4) DUST Control!! 5) ability to lock the building 6)look for used equipment 7) lots of lighting&#xA;*I used to use an unheated garage and had problems with rust on cast iron and wood warpage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2020-03-19T02:16:31.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10442" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-20T04:59:03.210" Score="4" ViewCount="331" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am toying between 2 options for my next workshop power tool. A bandsaw or table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both I am looking at have a maximum cutting depth of 80mm, both have fences to enable straight cuts and both have tiltable cutting tables with the same tilt angles available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what are the advantages/disadvantages of each?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2509" LastActivityDate="2020-03-24T14:36:37.403" Title="Bandsaw vs Table Saw" Tags="|power-tools|tools|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10442" CreationDate="2020-03-20T10:27:04.533" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found the following answer by &lt;a href=&quot;https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/33/tester101&quot;&gt;@Tester&lt;/a&gt; at &lt;a href=&quot;https://diy.stackexchange.com/a/33313/52164&quot;&gt;https://diy.stackexchange.com/a/33313/52164&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on what you're cutting, why you're cutting it, and what type of cuts you're making.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Long Straight Cuts&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to long straight cuts, a table saw is the best in the business.  Set the fence, turn it on, and it'll cut the same width pieces forever. With a band saw (or most other saws), you'll be looking at using some type of jig for long straight cuts.  Though even with a jig, you can end up with a bit of wobble in the cut since the blade may be a bit flexible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Scrolling Cuts&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're scrolling, you're not using a table saw. A band saw is going to allow you to make tighter radius curves, and do more accurate scrolling work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Depth of Cut&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some cases you'll not want to cut clean through a board. Maybe you're cutting a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dado_(joinery)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dado&lt;/a&gt;, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Groove_(joinery)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;groove&lt;/a&gt;, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tongue_and_groove&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tongue&lt;/a&gt;, etc. In these cases, the height adjustable blade on a table saw can be quite handy. You're not making these cuts on a band saw, though you could always use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Router_(woodworking)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;router&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Beveling&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some table saws also allow you to tilt the blade, which allows you to make long straight bevel cuts.  You can do bevel cuts on a band saw, but you're going to have to tilt the work piece instead of the saw blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Materials&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're working with more than just wood, a band saw will be your friend.  You'll be able to cut metal, wood, plastics, and even meat, simply by installing an appropriate blade.  A table saw is simply not going to offer the same versatility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Kerf&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kerf, is the amount of material removed by the saw blade. Since a band saws blades are thinner, they'll have a smaller kerf than a table saw.  Whether that's a pro or con is up to you, but there you go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Noise&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In almost all cases, a band saw is going to be much quieter than a table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Safety&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people feel safer around a band saw. Maybe because it's quieter, or doesn't look as ominous. I'm not sure what the reason, that's just how it is.  Don't be fooled, a band saw will take your finger off just the same as a table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, it depends what types of cuts you'll be making most, what materials you'll be using, and your own personal preference.  I say, get both!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2509" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2020-03-20T10:27:04.533" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10442" CreationDate="2020-03-20T13:28:54.457" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As with so many tool selection questions, a good place to start would be to ask yourself what you want to do with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a specific need in mind, then choose the tool that's better for that. For example, if you plan to build a whole kitchen's worth of cabinets, the table saw is probably what you want. If you're interested in making bandsaw boxes, well...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The short version: a table saw does a handful of jobs better than anything else, while a bandsaw is extremely versatile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Opinion warning&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A table saw is pretty much the archetypal woodworking power tool, and as a result, it tends to be the first tool many people buy when setting up their workshop. It was certainly the first tool I bought, for pretty much that reason. It's also the power tool that I use least often. If you don't have a specific need that you're trying to fill, and just want something for general woodworking use, I'd recommend a bandsaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of these two tools, there are some tasks that a table saw does better than any other tool. Cutting (&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/8031/5190&quot;&gt;reasonably sized&lt;/a&gt;) sheet goods is one example. Making repeatable cuts on a lot of case parts is another example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also a lot of tasks that table saws aren't suitable for. You should &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; try to make curved cuts on a table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bandsaw can do a lot of things competently, and some things really well. If you have any type of curved profile you want to apply to a piece along its length, a bandsaw is the best tool for this. If you need to resaw stock, a band saw is the best tool for this.&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; If you need to make rip cuts on stock that doesn't have an absolutely flat, square edge on it yet, the bandsaw is much safer.&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And while there are safety concerns associated with &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; power tool, the risk of kickback is, in my mind, the biggest safety concern when using a table saw. Because the working portion of a table saw blade is moving toward you with a lot of energy, if the work piece binds in the cut, or if your technique is poor, a table saw can throw the work piece back at you, potentially causing serious injury. Because of the way a bandsaw blade moves toward the table, it can't throw the work piece in this way.&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my particular usage, one of my bandsaw's greatest strength is its versatility. Very, very often when I'm in my shop, I'll have to make some quick and dirty cut on whatever I have in hand, just to get it to approximate size or whatever. Most of the time, I can just walk up to my bandsaw and get it done in 15&amp;nbsp;seconds, where if I were going to use my table saw for the same job, I'd have to worry about fixturing, flatness of the reference surface, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;It is &lt;em&gt;possible&lt;/em&gt; to resaw with a table saw, but the process is tedious, and you lose a lot more material thickness this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;Although you can &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/OClAbVzTxT8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;build a jig&lt;/a&gt; to accomplish this on a table saw, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;Regardless of which of these you choose, please make sure you understand the safety considerations of the tool, and learn how to use it safely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5190" LastActivityDate="2020-03-20T13:28:54.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10445" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-21T07:08:38.073" Score="-1" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;My issue is in the form of these headphone rings - I'm wanting to create new ones, but I need to extract these big metal lugs from the original, preferably without destroying them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jlyxn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jlyxn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the wood itself is Shedua, and the metal is aluminium. As far as I can tell, they're using some type of epoxy to hold it in place - any idea how I could remove this lug, without damaging either the wood or the metal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8412" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-03-23T14:39:08.247" LastActivityDate="2021-05-21T13:17:39.010" Title="How can I remove metal connectors from a thin wooden ring?" Tags="|glue|epoxy|assembly|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10446" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-21T17:55:42.327" Score="-1" ViewCount="264" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put new oak veneer on a table and applied two coat of polyurethane. It now looks as though I should have sanded down the veneer to a smoother surface. It's not terrible, but it the grain is sticking up a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How aggressive can I sand it now?  Should I just keep applying more coats of polyurethane and hope it will smooth out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8414" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-03-23T14:40:09.257" LastActivityDate="2022-11-10T09:04:30.463" Title="Sanding Poly coated veneer" Tags="|sanding|polyurethane|veneer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10446" CreationDate="2020-03-22T00:08:14.083" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it an oil based poly use a fine steel wool water based use an abrasive pad (Scotch Bright) or maybe a fine sand paper&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2020-03-22T00:08:14.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10448" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10449" CreationDate="2020-03-22T17:40:32.667" Score="0" ViewCount="124" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last week I was using my router and I think the guide bushing vibrated loose -- it chipped the bit, chewed up inside of the bushing a little (luckily it was only brass or it might have been more dramatic.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was inspecting the router itself afterward to make sure that it seemed OK and I noticed that there is about 0.003&quot; of play along the motor axis. For example, if I take off the collet and pull on the arbor itself it will move slightly (see photo below), or if I put a bit in the collet and tug on that, it moves slightly. The direction of movement seems dependent on the router orientation, like the weight of the motor is holding it downwards, but you can move it against gravity slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The arbor does not move radially (i.e. if the arbor axis it the Z axis it doesn't move in X or Y axis) and the bearings don't make any particularly unpleasant noises when I run it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this movement normal in this sort of router? I have at least one book that suggests any play at all in the arbor is a sign that something is wrong, which is what got me worried. And when I think about it, it seems like it could interfere with getting accurate depth settings for plunge routing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would normally just put my mind to rest by going to the store and playing with a demo unit, but due to world events I am kind of stuck inside with nothing else to compare to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The router is a DeWalt 611 (DWP611), if someone has one to compare to. It is pretty new, and while I am trying to &quot;baby&quot; it, I do make some mistakes sometimes and work it too hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xSQjy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xSQjy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Measuring arbor vertical movement&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3824" LastActivityDate="2020-03-22T20:30:58.687" Title="Trim router - Arbor has small amount of play along its axis, is this normal? (DWP611)" Tags="|router|tool-maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10448" CreationDate="2020-03-22T20:30:58.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah I'd say that's fairly normal after a &quot;crash&quot;. Every time you over-stress your router (even if it's just hearing the motor slow down because you're pushing at a feed rate which is too high) you risk bending the spindle or otherwise putting something out of alignment which may introduce some play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's not making funny noises or feeling &quot;jittery&quot; when you run it then it's probably fine. Keep an eye on it and if it starts to make horrible noises or feels like it's vibrating more than it should then I would stop using it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2020-03-22T20:30:58.687" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10450" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10451" CreationDate="2020-03-22T22:01:19.020" Score="1" ViewCount="545" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently we removed the carpet from our living room/hallway and installed peel-and-stick vinyl flooring. Now there is a 1/4 inch gap visible throughout the room. We're considering our options to fill the gaps and would like some input.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We found some corner finishing wood pieces at the store and painted them white to match our existing molding. It looks pretty well incorporated in the sample area we tested. However there are some miter cuts around the corners and I'm not sure the best way to cut those angles. I have a hand saw and speed square.  I tried using them to cut 22 degree angles but it doesn't look so good. Are these corner finishers a viable option? How should I approach these cuts. Images attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We brought home some Quarter Round Molding from the store but we didn't like how it looks. I've seen online there is a Shoe Molding; Would that be something to consider? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should we fill these gaps?  Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ha3Y9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ha3Y9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;BaseboardGap-CornerFinishExample-corner-example&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wRFpD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wRFpD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;BaseboardGap-CornerFinishExample-MiterCut&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2i5qI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2i5qI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;BaseboardGap-CornerFinishExample-saw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x0Dq6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x0Dq6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;BaseboardGap-CornerFinishExample-clean&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8007" LastActivityDate="2020-03-23T00:35:44.967" Title="Fill baseboard gaps after installing wood vinyl floors" Tags="|miter-joint|molding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10450" CreationDate="2020-03-23T00:35:44.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like you’ve got a good back saw you just need a quality miter box so that you can cut your angles precisely, Or spring for an electric miter saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I think a smaller shoe molding will look the best and if you have a miter box cutting your corners would be much easier than trying to use a speed square. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever molding you use when it comes to where it meets the door trim ( No need to put shoe molding on the bottom of your door trim, that will just look weird ) you’re going to want to put a  45 Deg miter return cut and round it over with sanding block so that you have a soft return towards the door trim to look best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if your miter joints are a little bit wonky you can fill them in with paintable caulk and then paint it all for a finished look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer to paint all of my molding before I start cutting it and installing it and then caulk any gaps and touch up with a small paintbrush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2917" LastActivityDate="2020-03-23T00:35:44.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10403" CreationDate="2020-03-23T03:41:35.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently it's a &lt;strong&gt;Coachbuilder's Door Check plane&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After searching &quot;felloes rebate plane&quot; (I thought it could be used to make rebates on really large wheel felloes) I found this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://cornishworkshop.blogspot.com/2007/09/check.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://cornishworkshop.blogspot.com/2007/09/check.html&lt;/a&gt; - &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It's a Coachbuilder's Door Check plane, s'what. In this case a &quot;Coach&#xA;  Door Smooth&quot; for cleaning up rebates - for some reason called &quot;checks&quot;&#xA;  by Coachbuilders. As it's curved it can do concave rebates curving in&#xA;  the horizontal plane, which is nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8416" LastActivityDate="2020-03-23T03:41:35.203" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10446" CreationDate="2020-03-23T16:31:30.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rather than just vote to close as a duplicate I thought I'd provide the links to previous Answers on your main queries as they are really not directly related so you'd have to go hunting around in numerous Q&amp;amp;As for the info:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/6287/finish-and-pitted-grain-in-red-oak/6288#6288&quot;&gt;Finish and pitted grain in red oak&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/9754/wood-still-rough-after-finish/9761#9761&quot;&gt;Wood Still Rough After Finish&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1420/leveling-a-finish-finishing-the-finish/1421#1421&quot;&gt;Leveling a finish/finishing the finish&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/557/should-i-use-sandpaper-or-steel-wool-between-coats-of-polyurethane/615#615&quot;&gt;Should I use sandpaper or Steel Wool between coats of polyurethane?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/9816/when-can-i-sand-water-based-polyurethane/9819#9819&quot;&gt;When can I sand water based polyurethane?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; if you do this right you don't have to be concerned about sanding the veneer, because the abrasive shouldn't touch it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a bonus on wiping varnish, in case you are using oil-based poly and not the waterbased variety:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5891/how-to-fix-very-light-scratches-in-polyurethane-finish/5893?r=SearchResults&amp;amp;s=3|41.8577#5893&quot;&gt;how to fix very light scratches in polyurethane finish?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-03-23T16:31:30.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10442" CreationDate="2020-03-23T17:48:30.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this exact dilemma. In fact, most of us probably did. My decision came down to which I would use more for my needs, which I determined would be the table saw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, we don't know your needs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I already had a jigsaw, I figured that would do fine for a while. I ended up making a box for it, mounted an inverted jigsaw inside it, and used that as a &quot;bandsaw&quot; for over a year. It worked great for small projects. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8418" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-03-24T14:36:37.403" LastActivityDate="2020-03-24T14:36:37.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8214" CreationDate="2020-03-24T03:12:58.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would strip and sand it down, give it a nice light stain or maybe cherry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then finish with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.butcherblock.com/product/emmets-good-stuff-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Emmets Good stuff&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2917" LastActivityDate="2020-03-24T03:12:58.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10457" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-24T03:51:42.680" Score="0" ViewCount="43" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a wood sign from the 1950's that has red and blue letters painted on it. It is a grey piece of drift wood. Someone either used shellac or varnish on it about 8 years ago and the sign looks glossy and dark on the side with the lettering but lighter and natural on the back where there is no lettering.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to remove the shellac or varnish without ruining the lettering?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8419" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-03-24T14:40:50.417" LastActivityDate="2020-03-24T14:40:50.417" Title="Is there a way to remove shellac or varish from a wood sign with painted lettering without runinig the letters?" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10458" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-24T14:34:31.210" Score="0" ViewCount="503" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in learning how to build shaker kitchen cabinets. I want them to look like the picture below. I want them to have a standard &lt;code&gt;1 1/2&quot; face frame&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;full overlay&lt;/code&gt; cabinet doors and drawers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is about the door hinges required. In doing my research, I can only find &lt;code&gt;1/2&quot; overlay&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;1 1/4&quot; overlay&lt;/code&gt; European concealed door hinges:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wouldn't I need &lt;code&gt;1 1/2&quot; overlay&lt;/code&gt; door hinges in order to make the end of the door flush with the end of the cabinet, like in the picture below?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wouldn't the &lt;code&gt;1 1/4&quot; overlay&lt;/code&gt; hinges leave &lt;code&gt;1/4&quot;&lt;/code&gt; of space between the door and the end of the cabinet?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4oz8m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4oz8m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cabinet door overlay&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8420" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-03-24T14:41:43.657" LastActivityDate="2020-04-27T06:25:49.803" Title="Kitchen Cabinet with Face Frame, Full Overlay Door Hinges" Tags="|cabinetry|hinges|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3470" CreationDate="2020-03-25T23:58:14.630" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need a &quot;gun&quot; drill, it cuts on one side . It would costly for making a pipe. Cost not a problem when you are drilling several expensive gun barrels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3966" LastActivityDate="2020-03-25T23:58:14.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10461" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-26T00:28:16.027" Score="0" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;Options other than butting together two long plywood panels to make the desktop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Working remotely and need a double desk for my wife and I. We have a great wide window at the end of a room that is ~11' wide and were thinking of a full length 11 deep 2' wide top with drawers on each side and a center cabinet to store our printer and provide support to the desktop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As always price is a factor as well as aesthetics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wife wants a dark wood(e.g) top and painted drawers/cabinet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering birch plywood for the drawers/cabinets(which will be painted) and a nice grade hardwood plywood for the top. Problem: I recognize that sheet goods are 8x4 and I'm worried about having regrets if I butt two long pieces together end to end and have a seam in the middle. I looked into hardwood veneer but it would need to be custom ordered and I'm nervous about getting a good adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just deal with the end to end plywood joint?&#xA;Other options I should consider? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have limited shop tools (table/drillpress/router/small jointer&amp;amp;planer/hand power tools). Small budget for any other necessities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8425" LastActivityDate="2020-03-26T16:45:50.877" Title="Choosing wood for long 11'x2' (double) desk top" Tags="|wood|furniture|plywood|veneer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10461" CreationDate="2020-03-26T16:45:50.877" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned above solid lumber can be had in long lengths, also plywood can be had in in longer lengths a 12' would be difficult and expensive to get. Turn a problem into a feature use an 8' piece with 2' cross grain (bread broad like) on the ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2020-03-26T16:45:50.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10463" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-27T02:11:23.013" Score="9" ViewCount="344" Body="&lt;p&gt;The lady at the lumber dealer said this was ostrichwood. Is she pulling my leg?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JFHag.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JFHag.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ostrich wood plank&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastActivityDate="2020-06-26T15:03:50.437" Title="Is this ostrichwood?" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10465" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-28T22:17:52.763" Score="0" ViewCount="1612" Body="&lt;p&gt;With regard to the difference between a wood drill bit and a metal drill bit, the respondent talks about a wood drill bit having a &quot;spar/brad&quot; and a &quot;lip,&quot; but doesn't point to (or show such) in the accompanying photos!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As for how to tell them [wood bit vs. metal bit] apart -- wood drill&#xA;  bits have two distinguishing features: a spar (also brad) and a lip.&#xA;  The spar helps in keeping the bit centered when starting the hole and&#xA;  prevents wandering of the bit on the surface of the wood. The lip acts&#xA;  like a chisel, slicing through the wood fibers in the circumference of&#xA;  the drilled hole, improving the quality of the finish. This is most&#xA;  important for through holes, where the lips helps reduce &quot;blow-out&quot; of&#xA;  the wood when exiting the wood on the other side. Wood bits are&#xA;  typical black and silvery in color, but other colors exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Metal drill bits, on the other hand, have just an angle at the tip.&#xA;  They often are fully black (plain HSS), golden (often titanium oxide&#xA;  finish) or coppery (often cobalt steel) in color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could someone &quot;point&quot; to these distinguishing features?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8435" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-03-30T13:41:32.057" LastActivityDate="2021-01-25T14:36:35.683" Title="What's a &quot;Brad&quot; and What's a &quot;Lip&quot; When Talking About a Wood Drill Bit?" Tags="|wood|drill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10466" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-28T22:40:22.950" Score="0" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a mantel from a piece of red cedar which has been cut flat on the bottom and top.  I have scraped and removed the loose bark from the sides.  I like the look of leaving some layers of of brown bark to give a brown color instead on removing all bark (white).  Will those strips loosen w/ time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8437" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-05-26T21:00:14.980" LastActivityDate="2021-05-26T21:00:14.980" Title="cedar fireplace mantel" Tags="|wood|live-edge|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10465" CreationDate="2020-03-28T22:45:34.097" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you've quoted, the spar/brad is the point at the center of the bit. One can find spade bits and twist bits with a brad point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lip being referenced as being used to cut the circumference of the hole means that there's a pair of tips extending deeper into the surface than the &quot;scraping&quot; portion of the spade bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some spade bits will have a threaded spar to assist pulling the cutting edges into the work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VYadR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VYadR.png&quot; alt=&quot;spade bit image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above image has the brad center in yellow, the spur/lip in red.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forstner bits will also have spar/brad centers and lips but will occasionally (usually) have a rotating chisel like surface that extends from the center to the perimeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2020-03-28T22:45:34.097" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10469" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-29T18:40:57.457" Score="0" ViewCount="1426" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a kitchen table from oak wood, and oiled the surface. It's a great looking piece and I'm very proud of it. Yesterday I must have stained it with a cleaning product, I unfortunately do not know, which one. See the picture - this is the inner stain, which is actually quite dark. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an attempt to remove it, I seem to have made thing worse by using a fat solvent (used to clean ovens); that's the outer stain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JChOy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JChOy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;stain on table&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on how to undo this? :/ In the past, on red wine stains, I've successfully applied salt and/or dishwashing soap. This removes the oil finish, but that can easily be reapplied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: the oil used is a food-safe &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.clou-shop.eu/clou-heimwerker/oele/arbeitsplatten-oel.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;countertop oil&lt;/a&gt; made from &quot;natural linseed oil, sunflower oil, soy oil and carnauba wax&quot;. It was applied by rubbing on with an old cloth (wax on/wax off), in about 3 layers, 2 years ago. Reapplied oil twice since then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8439" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-04-02T15:20:35.527" LastActivityDate="2022-11-10T10:01:30.193" Title="Removing a chemical or food stain on oiled wood table" Tags="|finishing|wood-repair|tabletop|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2896" CreationDate="2020-03-29T21:17:06.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have always used 11 1/2 inches on all bookshelves I have made that are part of a standing bookcase.  Over the last 40 years, I have probably made about a dozen different bookcases for family and friends.  Sometimes I use hardwood veneer plywood and other times I have used solid hardwood such as Cherry or Walnut.  For plywood shelves, I also put a hardwood (matching the veneer) edge on the front of the shelf which is about 1 1/4 inches.  This gives the shelf strength to prevent sagging from heavy books.  On solid hardwood shelves this is not necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not go under 11 inches for a shelf though.  In the photo below, one of my bookcases, solid Cherry, has shelves 11 1/4 inches deep.  In the lower left corner is a boxed set of Calvin &amp;amp; Hobbes Collection and it extends over the shelf by about 1/4 of an inch.  Other books on that shelf also come closer to edge.  Today that bookshelf is overflowing, I built it about 3 years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BZYWC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BZYWC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1140" LastActivityDate="2020-03-29T21:17:06.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10471" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-29T22:06:23.467" Score="0" ViewCount="1898" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to determine the weight capacity of a cabinet made of 1/2&quot; plywood which is 18&quot; deep and 60&quot; long, 37&quot; high.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The cabinet has 2 sides and 2 uprights spaced about 20&quot; from either end. The top is also 1/2&quot; plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8440" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2020-05-19T16:04:03.660" LastActivityDate="2020-06-28T07:29:07.383" Title="Weight capacity of cabinet made of 1/2&quot; plywood" Tags="|plywood|strength|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8190" CreationDate="2020-03-30T21:07:40.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To expand slightly on FreeMan's answer: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can free chisel it&lt;/strong&gt; - a wide chisel and a mallet with also work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Extras&lt;/strong&gt; - &#xA;Generally, sawing and a plane is the quickest for a large board, and chisel with or without the plane for smaller work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mentioned a preference for Japanese saws. When cutting with a saw with a clean (non-rusted) blade, you can see a reflection of wood you are cutting. By watching that reflection as you cut, you can easily maintain the 45 degree angle by looking for an 90 degree angle between the wood and the wood reflection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a peek at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/almost-forgotten-handsaw-tricks-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/almost-forgotten-handsaw-tricks-2/&lt;/a&gt; for this a couple other tricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastActivityDate="2020-03-30T21:07:40.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10469" CreationDate="2020-03-31T13:53:07.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any ideas on how to undo this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I suspect you already fear the only reliable way to deal with this is to go back to bare wood and then finish again. Since you used an oil finish blending the new finish back in with the old should be possible (this is frequently given as one of the main selling points with oil finishes of all kinds).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately this may not be a simple matter of just spot-sanding/scraping the affected area because the stain &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; have penetrated deeply enough that you will create a visible low spot. You'll have to be guided by what you discover once you start to sand or scrape.... you might get lucky :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One additional point to note is that the newly worked wood is likely to be noticeably lighter in colour than the wood around it. The colour will even up eventually, but it will take some time and you'll need to be patient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For both the above reasons you may want to bite the bullet and just refinish the whole surface. I've done this myself more than once to treat localised staining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; oils (and waxes, and all mixtures of them) are relatively poor surface protectors and it can be prudent to embrace minor stains here and there as a natural aspect of the finish choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't anything related to your main query but I wanted to include something on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Edit: the oil used is a &lt;strong&gt;food-safe countertop oil&lt;/strong&gt; made from &quot;natural linseed oil, sunflower oil, soy oil and carnauba wax&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;food safe finish&quot; thing is a great con in woodworking circles and does a lot to distract from the truth in this area. In reality it appears one can safely assume that &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; regular wood finishes are food safe (once fully dried/cured in the case of drying finishes) because there is not, and never has been, any evidence to the contrary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice one of the main takeaways related to this is that there is no reason to prefer a &quot;food-safe&quot; finish over one that isn't sold as such, but which may be a better (and frequently also cheaper) finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-03-31T13:53:07.300" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10474" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10476" CreationDate="2020-03-31T14:41:20.193" Score="1" ViewCount="537" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought this set of 30-year old dining table and chairs from Craigslist, and the owner indicated that they would polish them every year. I was stupid not to follow up with a question about their polishing method. Now a year later, I wanted to do my own due diligence with maintaining the furniture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I did a little acetone test and the finish dissolves and becomes tacky, so can I conclude that the finish is lacquer?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I went and bought the Howard Feed-N-Wax Wood Polish, but then read that putting wax on finishes (on lacquer furniture or polyurethane flooring) ruins them for good in terms of allowing for future repair or re-coating. So what's the proper polishing approach to maintain this effect?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/inffloor/infrefinpoly.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt; under &quot;Never use wax, oil soaps ...&quot; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hometips.com/repair-fix/hard-wood-floors.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt; under &quot;Don’t ever wax a wood floor ...&quot; I also found such statements against wax for lacquer furniture finishes. We have little kids in the house that make deep dents / scratches and thus the need to repair quite likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Kyoc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Kyoc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8447" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-04-01T20:11:46.743" LastActivityDate="2020-04-01T20:11:46.743" Title="What's the polishing method to achieve/maintain this smooth, reflective finishing" Tags="|finishing|furniture|wax|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10474" CreationDate="2020-04-01T12:45:40.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1) I did a little acetone test and the finish dissolves and becomes tacky, so can I conclude that the finish is lacquer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibly. Varnishes also soften in the presence of acetone so it is not a rule in/rule out indicator for lacquer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2) I went and bought the Howard Feed-N-Wax Wood Polish, but then read that putting wax on finishes (on lacquer furniture or polyurethane flooring) ruins them for good in terms of allowing for future repair / re-coating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, that's dead wrong. This is broadly the case with silicone polishes, but absolutely not of things containing wax. Wax at one point was the only, and then the no. 1 thing, used to maintain gloss on furniture. So that's maybe 170+ years of precedent using wax for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If attempting a refresh or spot repair you do have to be careful about removing the wax from the surface, but this is both easy and simple to do, just a bit laborious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So what's the proper polishing approach to maintain this effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There isn't just one, because it's likely the previous owners didn't do what 100 other similar owners did to maintain their respective chairs, and there wouldn't have been a heck of a lot to distinguish between them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now Howard's is by no means the furniture polish I would have recommended — no matter how popular it seems to have become in the US in recent years :-) — but it's by no means the worst, so I wouldn't lose any sleep about using it now that you have it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would have recommended using a wax polish of some kind (wax only, not a blend with oil) as they remain the premier way to maintaining furniture. Once the Howard's is gone a good basic paste wax would be well worth trying, e.g. Johnson's, which has been a mainstay in American homes for a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a general point the one thing to avoid in furniture polishes is oily ones, and at worst a polish where the entire shiny component is an oil.... which is the case with many thin-textured spray polishes that don't haze over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;We have little kids in the house that make deep dents / scratches and thus the need to repair quite likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm glad you included this comment because an important titbit to pass on is that spot repairs to dings, scrapes and scratches are difficult to do well and this is generally considered only feasible with shellac and lacquer (traditional solvent lacquer) because these continue to be able to meld with the dried finish on the furniture already. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For varnish though while you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt;, within reason, use more varnish it is actually quite practical to use a dissimilar finish for some surface repairs, for example wiping on some shellac or shooting a little lacquer from a spraycan. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-04-01T12:45:40.167" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10446" CreationDate="2020-04-02T10:39:26.893" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oak, whether a veneer or solid lumber, reacts the same way to water based poly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The grain will raise and normally I would tell you to use clear grain filler before you start to get the best finish. However, you already applied two coats of poly, so it doesn't really matter at this point whether it's water-based or oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's an easy fix: lightly sand with 320, clean surface, and apply another coat. Repeat until you get your desired finish. If you're using water-based finishes you probably need two more coats. If you're using oil-based finish, one more coat may do just fine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8451" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-04-02T15:18:44.750" LastActivityDate="2020-04-02T15:18:44.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10478" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-03T04:41:21.550" Score="1" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;The screws I have are 10g..does this countersink bit work or should I refund and what is the correct size countersink bit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8455" LastEditorUserId="8455" LastEditDate="2020-04-03T04:47:41.493" LastActivityDate="2021-04-29T17:43:19.713" Title="What is the correct size screw of a 8.3mm countersink bit" Tags="|wood|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10478" CreationDate="2020-04-03T07:08:40.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did some research and for a 10g screw they suggest 1/8 - 9/64 or 3.6mm countersink bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8455" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2021-04-29T17:43:19.713" LastActivityDate="2021-04-29T17:43:19.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10482" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-04T22:47:42.387" Score="0" ViewCount="690" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have stained all the wood trim in my bathroom.  I am planning to coat it with an oil based polyurethane. Would exterior poly be preferable because it is exposed to moisture?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8462" LastActivityDate="2020-04-05T08:25:43.337" Title="Should I use or exterior oil based polyurethane for wood trim in a bathroom?" Tags="|wood|polyurethane|moisture|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10482" CreationDate="2020-04-05T01:41:14.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my understanding the biggest difference in exterior poly is it has UV inhalators. I have built several bathroom vanities and used wipe on oil based poly some are about 30 yrs old. One is showing some wear*, as I remember it only has 2 very thin coats, I would recommend no less than 3 coats. *FYI that vanity has survived our 5 children&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2020-04-05T01:41:14.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10482" CreationDate="2020-04-05T08:25:43.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interior varnishes are fine for bathrooms, even if the area will be subject to direct water splashes every now and then (normal varnishes are actually quite waterproof when applied properly). Exterior varnishes are formulated not just to resist rain but also to withstand a range of exposure conditions that just aren't seen indoors, so no purpose in using them on interior projects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; use more than two coats for areas that might get wet on a regular basis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-04-05T08:25:43.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10471" CreationDate="2020-04-06T14:52:09.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the information offered the only way to arrive at an answer is (as mentioned in the comments) to experiment with different weights and see what works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Big Bang Method&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If over loading the cabinet will not cause a catastrophic event - hurting someone or damaging something you care about - you could load a large amount of weight and then periodically observe the cabinet for bending / breakage. Let the weight sit for some period of time and check again. Personally, this method makes me nervous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Slow but Steady Method&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A more cautious method would be to start with low weight items - observe over a period of time (say once each hour for example) and increase the weight a little - observe and repeat until the ideal weight is found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure to identify the part of the cabinet that connects to your house. If the cabinet sits on the floor you will want to observe the parts of the cabinet that transfer the contained weight to the floor. If the cabinet is mounted to the wall you will want to observe the wall mounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to go at it would be to determine how much weight you need it to hold.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you only need it to hold a few pounds the materials in the cabinet can handle that as long as the weight in the cabinet is transferred well to the house (floor or wall).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need it to hold as much weight as you can stuff in then do some testing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6222" LastActivityDate="2020-04-06T14:52:09.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10391" CreationDate="2020-04-06T15:17:07.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had good results using 3M Command Strips to attach wood to painted drywall.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The Command strips remove completely without damaging the wall.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Below is a rough drawing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bnp9y.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bnp9y.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would have to look at your application to determine the right size wood (2x4? 2x2?) how many Command Strips and if the should be attached the vertically or horizontally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't work for 3M and don't mean to do product recommendation - it's just my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6222" LastActivityDate="2020-04-06T15:17:07.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10488" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10490" CreationDate="2020-04-08T19:39:33.557" Score="3" ViewCount="226" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am replacing bandsaw tires. I bought urethane replacement tires. There is a smooth side and a rough side. The manufacturers directions are clear on every step except for this point. The old tires have been on the bandsaw for AT LEAST 25 years and are made of rubber, those two differences make me leery of simply mirroring the current setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the smooth side or the rough side of the tire go against the bandsaw wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it matters the wheel is made of aluminum, the wheel itself has a crown, and the wheel has a lip on the edge to hold the tire on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1887" LastActivityDate="2020-04-09T14:09:12.903" Title="Should the smooth side or the rough side of a urethane bandsaw tire go against the wheel?" Tags="|power-tools|tool-maintenance|band-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10489" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-09T02:27:09.850" Score="-1" ViewCount="1068" Body="&lt;p&gt;Refinishing a pine table. Applied one coat of minwax wipe on then sanded as told. Applied second coat and sanding marks still showing. Can it be fixed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8476" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-04-09T14:49:48.480" LastActivityDate="2020-05-13T16:07:30.800" Title="Sanded lightly between coats of minwax. Applied second coat and you can see where I sanded. How can you fix this?" Tags="|finishing|sanding|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10488" CreationDate="2020-04-09T14:09:12.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wrote to the manufacturer, they replied:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Either way will work.  However I install smooth side in to the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1887" LastActivityDate="2020-04-09T14:09:12.903" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10491" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-09T20:05:53.303" Score="1" ViewCount="332" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking at purchasing a used dust collector and don't know how to calculate the CFM. It has a 7.5hp motor with 1760 rpm, it has an 8' top pulley and a 8&quot; bottom pulley, can you help me find out how much CFM it would create?&#xA;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8479" LastActivityDate="2020-04-09T20:05:53.303" Title="How to determine the CFM of a dust collector" Tags="|dust-collection|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10471" CreationDate="2020-04-10T08:48:45.163" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try the sagulator. While I wouldn't hang my hat on it as, jdv mentioned, each piece of ply will be different, it'll give you an idea if the weight you want to put on it is in range or not. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8483" LastActivityDate="2020-04-10T08:48:45.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10494" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-11T10:13:54.977" Score="0" ViewCount="126" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to glue together the mitred ends of some beechwood, using hide glue. My concerns are ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is hide glue strong enough?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does hide glue last?  Are there any known instances the glue starts to weaken after some time?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does the hide glue cause any discolourisation in the wood?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is hide glue natural and free of any toxic chemicals?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8486" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-05-20T22:16:48.757" LastActivityDate="2021-05-20T22:16:48.757" Title="Is hide glue suitable for gluing together wooden picture frames?" Tags="|joinery|glue|miter-joint|adhesives|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8201" CreationDate="2020-04-11T14:44:07.217" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;you have a stamped metal frog, they aren't sturdy enough nd flex when the bite the wood.&#xA;Sorry but I have been there and got the T shirt.&#xA;I was a carpenter for twenty years, finish, rough and supervisor. I have wooden planes and metal planes, and the only time this problem popped up, is when my Uncle gave me a metal plane with a stamped out frog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8489" LastActivityDate="2020-04-11T14:44:07.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10497" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10510" CreationDate="2020-04-11T18:26:57.347" Score="1" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good day,&#xA;I'm trying to fix a small table, using cold glue. It seems the glue doesn't want to &quot;take&quot; on the hard-ish wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've cleaned it with a damp cloth. The glue lasts a few months and then the thing comes apart...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gHJdk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gHJdk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastEditorUserId="421" LastEditDate="2020-04-15T06:25:23.687" LastActivityDate="2020-04-16T02:10:55.190" Title="Glueing hardwood" Tags="|glue|hardwood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10471" CreationDate="2020-04-12T10:11:25.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your wall studs are 16&amp;quot; on center, 64&amp;quot; equals 4 studs on center. A 66&amp;quot; cabinet would allow for a pattern of 4 screws per row, with a total of 3 screws at 6&amp;quot; spacing for up and down rows. Using 3&amp;quot; stainless wood screws, with a 60&amp;quot; cabinet  you would only hit 3 studs at 16&amp;quot; O.C. (16&amp;quot;, 32&amp;quot;, 48&amp;quot;) you would want to open the wall to add support backing, with whatever material your wall studs are, patch the walls up, or using wall anchors (which I don't recommend for this project). Hope this helps/&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6207" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2020-06-28T07:29:07.383" LastActivityDate="2020-06-28T07:29:07.383" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10501" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-13T11:57:54.317" Score="0" ViewCount="267" Body="&lt;p&gt;After leaving a bug spray can on my wooden table overnight, I went to remove it the following morning. When I did the wood seemed stuck to the bottom of the can. As I removed it, the finish was taken off. What is the best way to fix?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8497" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2020-04-13T15:05:17.850" LastActivityDate="2020-04-13T15:05:17.850" Title="How to Fix Wood Tabletop (Finish stripped off by bottom of bug spray can left on overnight)" Tags="|finishing|tabletop|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10489" CreationDate="2020-04-13T15:45:17.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple answer in my thinking, is yes, it can be fixed but with caveats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sand, apply more, sand, apply more until you're happy.  Of course you risk adding more scratches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others suggest, scratches come in all sizes.  Sandpaper, luckily also comes in all sizes from Course (50 grit) to very fine which can go above 12,000 grit.  The more grains of grit, the smaller they are, and the finer the scratches they leave.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of the equation is what are we sanding/finishing?  Oak for instance doesn't to my eye get much advantage past 320 extra fine sand paper.  Rosewood, in contrast, I've taken to 2,000 and can see a great difference from 320 to 2,000.  Always move from lower numbers to higher numbers, and a good rule is don't go more than double in any one phase - 200-400, 400-800, 800-1600 as example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different woods are harder or softer meaning that the scratches embedded are deeper or shallower.  Pine is soft, and will scratch very easy (dents easy too).  If the underlying wood was not sanded to your satisfaction, then any finish will likely telegraph that to the surface.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom line in my mind is sand as much as you feel proud of the end product.  If the product is utilitarian, then maybe not as much.  If you think it's heirloom, then maybe more.  Use &quot;raking&quot; light to see the scratches and remove them with finer and finer grit sandpaper.  Raking is a low angle, glancing light that makes the valley of the scratch stand out.  Sorry to say, it's mostly a question of how much time do you have to dedicate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Welcome to the forum!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastActivityDate="2020-04-13T15:45:17.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10503" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-14T05:31:00.280" Score="0" ViewCount="913" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a sculpture using curved shapes. I'd like the appearance of a continuous, flowing object. Due to the curves and small size I cannot use clamps. I plan on the sculpture being 5 feet tall and 1 foot wide using various shapes around 3x2 inches. Any advice to make this strong and appear seamless?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8499" LastEditorUserId="3985" LastEditDate="2020-04-14T09:43:18.617" LastActivityDate="2020-04-14T09:43:18.617" Title="How Do I Glue Multiple Small Pieces Of Curved Wood Together Without Clamps" Tags="|wood|glue|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10503" CreationDate="2020-04-14T09:42:52.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A photo or drawing representative of the shape of your parts would be useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The strength of your assembly will depend on the force you can apply, in the example you provide, without clamps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Masking tape can secure individual parts while the glue dries, but the strength of the joint will be far less than if you were able to use clamps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strong cord wrapped around a shape, with a loop to one side which can be twisted to tighten the assembly may provide a stronger glue joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strap clamps exist which work in a similar manner. They use a strong webbing that is &quot;cranked&quot; in, to create the necessary force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can tolerate holes in your work, to be filled later, brads can be used to join components. Drive the head below the surface then use wood putty and sand smooth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Screws can be used in a similar manner, especially if the holes are counterbored, allowing for plugs to cover the screw head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If succeeding parts overlap, the holes for the brads or screws would be covered and only the last or outside portions would require filling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2020-04-14T09:42:52.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10505" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-14T18:40:18.003" Score="0" ViewCount="364" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to restore an old Cuckoo clock. It hasn't been cleaned for a while and it has a layer of grime and dust on top (so dusting it only is not an option). What is the best product to get the grime out of it without damaging the wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gqxPS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gqxPS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cuckoo clock&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8198" LastActivityDate="2020-04-14T18:40:18.003" Title="Cleaning the exterior of a Cuckoo clock" Tags="|restoration|clean-up|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10425" CreationDate="2020-04-15T06:18:17.210" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My background is doing set construction / assembly / disassembly in theatres. We commonly need to move large/heavy objects (as in thousands of pounds) and they often have weird and ungainly shapes (we once moved a tree across town and suspended it in mid air with the bottom of the &quot;trunk&quot; above head height, attached at the last minute to something that wasn't originally designed with that in mind, and we had to re-position it over and over again as the director made up their mind about where each branch should be (we had to cut off a few branches and move them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, working alone is not necessarily a bad thing. Just about every accident I've ever seen has either been someone who doesn't understand the problem (which is likely if you ask a friend to help) or communication issues (which can happen whenever more than one person is involved).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carefully think about every step before progressing, and make sure you've got a backup plan in place if something goes wrong. Ideally you should always be able to just drop the heavy object and step back without risking injury or damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to consider, even for simple tasks like climbing a ladder to change a lightbulb it's good to have someone &quot;spotting&quot; you, even if all they're able to do is call 911. It's best to have that person in the room with you but they could just be on the other end of a phone call on speakerphone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moving on to answer your question, to move a heavy object, my preferred method is a set of &quot;dollies&quot;. They're cheap, just a platform with wheels. Swivel wheels are more versatile but fixed wheels are safer for heavy items. I like to have swivel wheels ont he end I'm holding, and fixed wheels on the other end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To lift things, ropes are great. Invest in some good quality weight rated ropes and pulleys hanging above your workbench to gain a 2:1 or 3:1 mechanical advantage. Remember to &quot;catch&quot; something that falls requires much more strength than just holding a static weight. Make sure you have a second safety rope that will take the weight if the primary rope fails (or just if you need to let go for some reason). The secondary rope should just have a simple fixed knot that will catch the timber before it reaches the floor - nothing complicated involving pulleys/etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be slow to work this way, moving a short distance between stopping to adjust the ropes, but it works. And it's safe. It's also cheap, though even working in theatres with multi-million dollar systems designed specifically to &quot;fly&quot; heavy objects, ropes are still used everywhere (sometimes wire ropes or chains where appropriate).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and wear gloves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8503" LastActivityDate="2020-04-15T06:18:17.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10507" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10512" CreationDate="2020-04-15T21:31:12.320" Score="2" ViewCount="8033" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over the past few days I have been refinishing a cedar chest. I used stripper and a razor blade to remove most of the old finish before starting to sand. I sanded it up to 600 grit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was reading the directions on the polyurethane I was planning to use and saw that I needed to use mineral spirits over the surface before applying it, but accidentally put mineral oil in it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thankfully I caught myself before applying the polyurethane. I have seen lots of conflicting information out there, but am I right that it is NOT advisable to put an oil based polyurethane over mineral oil that I have put on it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I just wait until the mineral oil seems to be dried out (6-12 months) or would it be better to work it out using a solvent such as naphtha, acetone, or mineral spirits? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would there be any better ways to finish it now that I have put mineral oil on it? Shellac? A drying oil? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8506" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-04-16T16:54:31.840" LastActivityDate="2020-04-16T16:54:31.840" Title="Finishes over mineral oil" Tags="|finishing|polyurethane|refinishing|surface-preparation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10508" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-15T22:25:27.290" Score="3" ViewCount="2090" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I attempted to make a simple raised garden bed out of box store 2x12s and 2x4s. I cut the pieces to length and square (using a circular saw) and went to attach the pieces with butt joints secured with decking screws. However, when I went to secure the final side, the whole thing was warped and would not sit on the ground without racking up and down. Also the ends would not line up flush or square. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking about redoing this because it bugs me. Was this an error on my part or is this due to warping of the boards I bought? How would I prevent this warping from occurring the next time I make one as I need to make two more? Any advice would be much appreciated! Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the pictures: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MtAai.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MtAai.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8507" LastActivityDate="2020-04-22T12:25:09.207" Title="Why is my simple garden box warped?" Tags="|wood|technique|wood-movement|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10508" CreationDate="2020-04-16T01:59:22.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a living tree, wood pulls water out of the ground like a sponge and moves it up to the leaves. That function still contines after the tree is dead especially if it's been cut recently, and pine is particularly prone to this compared to other timbers. Timber grows/shrinks/twists/etc as water is soaked up and also as it dries out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exterior grade paint/varnish/oils/etc will help, but that might not be enough for the amount of moisture you have and may not be the look you're going for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some timbers that are more stable than others, but that gets expensive and for such extreme moisture the problem might not ever go away completely. Also it's a good idea to expose timber to the level of moisture it will experience for the final installation before cutting it/etc. But for outdoors in the element you're going to deal with constant moisture changes throughout the day and seasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would bolt the timber some kind of rigid frame made of heavy duty steel brackets which could be hidden underground. You'll also need to disassemble the box, clamp it to the frame and re-do the cuts since they're not 90 degrees anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also wherever possible design your box in such a way that it still looks good even with movement. For example instead of having two pieces of timber flush you can add a finger's width of overhang. If the size of that overhang changes slightly between autumn and spring... it'll still look fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The screws you used don't look very strong either, stronger fasteners and glue will help. Some glues dry hard/rigid which will prevent movement but may crack if stressed too much. Other glues are soft and flexible and allow a bit of movement without losing their strength. Which is better depends on how much movement there's going to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8503" LastEditorUserId="8503" LastEditDate="2020-04-16T02:06:08.907" LastActivityDate="2020-04-16T02:06:08.907" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10497" CreationDate="2020-04-16T02:10:55.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not familiar with that brand of glue, but assuming it's reasonable quality and there's nothing wrong with it (moisture, too old, etc) and has been applied properly the glue is should hold extremely well and for decades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the wood doesn't have any coatings (paint, oil, dust, etc) and is held firmly with clamps while the glue dries. If you don't have clamps or just want the job done quickly, nailing or screwing the timber in place while the glue is wet will also work (once the glue sets it will be far stronger than screws or nails).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the &quot;edge grain&quot; of timber will glue with much more strength than &quot;end grain&quot;. There are techniques you can research to mitigate this if end grain gluing is the only option, but generally it should be avoided.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other glues that can be used with paint, but you have to know the chemicals in the paint to find a suitable glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8503" LastActivityDate="2020-04-16T02:10:55.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10508" CreationDate="2020-04-16T13:22:15.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How would I prevent this warping from occurring?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You wouldn't. Wood is a natural product and warping is what it naturally does. However, you can mitigate the effects. You can buy engineered wood products that won't warp, but I doubt that the cost would be acceptable for a project like this, and I don't know if engineered wood is available in pressure-treated for ground contact. (If it is, the price is, I'm sure, even higher.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Wood Quality:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you confirm, before purchasing, that you were choosing the flattest, straightest, least warped boards in the pile at the big box? I've been known to set aside a dozen boards just to find one that I felt was true enough for my purposes. My wife and I can plan on an hour, minimum, at the lumber stack if we're picking up a large pile of wood for a project. (I've been known to put &gt;50% into the &quot;nope&quot; pile. When it came to choosing the &lt;em&gt;very visible&lt;/em&gt; decking for our recent deck build, it was probably &gt;70% into the &quot;nope&quot; pile.) If the wood will be exposed, don't forget to check for knots, splits, checks and discoloration on the surface(s) that will be exposed. If the boards were warped, to begin with, it takes a lot more effort to ensure that your project will come out squareish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at your pictures, it &lt;em&gt;looks&lt;/em&gt; like you've used untreated wood. That will not last very long in contact with dirt. It will begin to rot and fall apart almost immediately. You'll probably get 2 years where the top looks decent, but the part in contact with the ground will be rotting away. By year 3, you'll probably have visible rot visible near the top of the box. You'll want to purchase pressure-treated lumber that is rated for ground contact. At my preferred big box, they have &quot;ground contact&quot; and &quot;not ground contact&quot; rated PT. I'm not 100% certain the differences, but the cost factor is small, so it was worth it to me (especially for posts that support my deck, YMMV).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Dealing with crown:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To accommodate warped wood (all wood is going to have some warp to it unless you're buying kiln- or air-dried lumber from a quality lumber yard, i.e. not a big box, and even then, it can move on you when you cut it) you'll have to work &lt;em&gt;with&lt;/em&gt; the wood instead of just assuming that everything's flat and square like a piece of steel would be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a bow in you 2x12 along its length, is it a slow, steady even bow? If so, you can probably find 2 reasonably matching sections of bowing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut your long lengths from these matching sections. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut them a couple of inches longer than your then your finished length. (See the first point in the &quot;Work with it&quot; section. If you're going to use that method, add some to &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; measurement.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stand them next to each other on their 2x edge on a level floor (like the garage). &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You'll want them to be crown up - they should be stable on the floor that way. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you put them crown down, they'll want to rock which will make the next step more difficult since they'll be moving.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;From there, mark a vertical line using a square to the floor. &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you lay them down to recut them, you'll see that these new lines are &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; square to the wood, but they'll be vertical when these side rails are stood back up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Duplicate this process for the 2 short ends. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll now have 4 boards that have a vertical crown when stood on edge in the orientation you'll be assembling them, but &lt;em&gt;most importantly&lt;/em&gt; they'll have edges that will match flat so they can be screwed together and meet up neatly. If this vertical crowning is unacceptable, you can use a straight-edge to mark a line that will cut off the crown. Cut this with your circular saw. You'll end up with a piece that's flat on the top and curved on the bottom - since the bottom will be buried in the dirt, it won't matter. In theory, the crown you cut off the top should, more-or-less, fit into the arch left on the bottom - you &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; glue and screw it in if the crown is significant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Dealing with a twist:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the boards have twist across their face (the 12&quot; dimension) you have options. If you have a surface planer, you can plane the warp out, but then you end up with thinner boards that may not be suitable for the purpose. If the warp isn't too severe, you can simply work with it and forcibly pull the warp out as you assemble, or you can cut to accommodate the warp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Force it:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To pull the warp out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it's not too severe, you may be able to simply push the board flush when you're screwing it in place, then add an extra screw or two to hold it there. Be warned, though, that the wood &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; want to move back, and you may end up with it pulling past the screw heads.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the warp is more severe, you may be able to use clamps to flatten the warp then use lag screws with washers (into predrilled holes) to hold the surface to the edge grain of the adjoining board. Again, the wood &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; want to move back and you may end up with splits as it does so.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Work &lt;em&gt;with&lt;/em&gt; it:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To cut to accommodate the warp, scribe the joints:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In this process, you'll be cutting roughly 1.5&quot; off of &lt;em&gt;each&lt;/em&gt; end of your long boards. Make sure you account for this when cutting the long boards by cutting them 3&quot; longer than the desired finished length.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Align the board to overlap (that would be the board we see end grain on in your picture #2, on the left) against the face of the board it's to overlap (the surface grain board in pic #2, on the right). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Square the boards up the very best you can (ensuring that the joint remains square).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a pencil to draw a line along the end-grain board onto the face-grain board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a jig-saw to cut the face-grain board along this line. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you bring them back together in their original alignment, they should mate up pretty accurately. &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can tweak your jigsaw cut as necessary to meet your standards of tidiness. (Adjust the cut with the jig-saw, a rasp or file, or sandpaper as you feel necessary.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remember that some of the joint (looks like) it will be buried, so that part probably doesn't have to be quite so neat (i.e. save some time here).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your corner on the face-grain board will no longer be perfectly vertical, but it will be a reasonably tight joint to the board around the corner from it and, unless there's a severe twist, it won't be obvious because you've got a tight joint. Additionally, some of this not-square-joint could be covered in dirt if you plan properly. (I keep mentioning that because it looks like you're building this into a slope and I'd imagine you'll back-fill to match the slope.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Fasteners:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd think that your deck screws will be sufficient for quite a number of years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be sure you're using ones that specifically indicate that they're suitable for use in treated lumber (most decks are made of treated lumber, so that should be most deck screws). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For any that will be directly exposed to dirt, you might want to consider the extra expense of stainless steel screws. SS screws are quite a bit more pricey, though, so you'll have to decide on your price vs life-span tolerance. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may want to increase the number of screws you're using. I'd guess you used 3 on a 12&quot; run. You may want to up that to 4 screws.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consider pre-drilling pilot holes, even though many deck screws have drill-type tips. &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using a small pilot hole bit will help reduce splitting when putting them in near the edge on either long- or edge-grain. Especially if you need to put more than one screw into a single growth ring. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A small pilot hole bit should allow for a straighter hole for better alignment into the long length of the adjoining board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Fixing This Box:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to fix this box without cutting the ends to make it smaller, you could cut the warp off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the box to a hard, level surface. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the 2x4 top cap.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insert some shims under the high points to hold it steady (or enlist a helper - put the kids to work!).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a level to find the lowest top corner. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw a level line around the box from the lowest corner. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mark the 4 corners (near the bottom of the corner) to ensure you reassemble in the correct order.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disassemble the box.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut the boards down at this new level line.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reassemble the box.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For the corners that are slightly out of alignment (pic #2), I'd simply pull them into alignment on assembly and add an extra screw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reattach the top cap (some fettling may be required to make it fit properly now).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom of the box won't be square, but you can bury the low points a bit to hide the sins and call it good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may end up with some splits and checks, but since you're intentionally using non-PT lumber for your veggies, you'll be replacing the boxes every few years anyway, so it shouldn't be too big an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-04-22T12:25:09.207" LastActivityDate="2020-04-22T12:25:09.207" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10507" CreationDate="2020-04-16T16:50:01.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mineral oil will never dry&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, so you need to strip it from the surface of the wood with a solvent before you can safely overcoat with a 'drying' finish — one that dries and cures, which includes polyurethane. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A non-drying oil within the surface wood fibres can prevent the formation of a good bond between the finish and the wood, leading to poor durability and even peeling. And it can interfere with the proper drying of the finish too, leading to it being permanently sticky or gummy — the same effect is seen with some tropical woods which have a natural oily/resinous compounds in them, and just like with those the solution is to clean the surface of the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would do this using solvent&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; and rags or paper towels, and plenty of them (so that you're physically removing the dissolved oil, not just spreading it around after it has been picked up by the cloth/paper). Just be thorough and work methodically over the surface and it shouldn't be too tough a job although fair warning, cleaning like this does use a surprising amount of solvent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would there be any better ways to finish it now that I have put mineral oil on it? Shellac? A drying oil? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could in theory at least use shellac here, as many modern users of shellac who still pad it on have switched to using mineral oil from the traditional linseed oil as a lubricant on their application pads. But for safety it would still be best to to clean the oil from the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A drying oil applied over wood already wet with a non-drying oil is a recipe for the drying oil to never dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not related to your main query:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I sanded it up to 600 grit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's rarely any benefit to sanding beyond about 320 grit if the wood will be finished conventionally, and with a film finish you can get away with sanding only to around 150 occasionally, although 180-240 is the more usual range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;600 grit is fine enough to be considered a polishing grit, and once a film finish goes on the wood the finish itself becomes the final surface and provides the polish, so there's no need to polish the wood beforehand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Mineral oil on wood appears to dry because it wears from the surface with use and handling, and may sink in a little deeper (very little, on the order of a few cells in the wood).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; You can use mineral spirits, paint thinner, VM&amp;amp;P naphtha, xylene or toluene (which are all part of the same spectrum of hydrocarbon solvents) or acetone. Note that if using MS the low-odour or &quot;odourless&quot; kind is less effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-04-16T16:50:01.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="573" CreationDate="2020-04-19T03:33:15.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Patience, Patience, Patience&#xA;I have dealt with pure tung oil for many years.  Exp. – I made a 6’ walking staff out of a cherry sapling around 36 years ago and it still looks perfect.  Made a homemade rig to hand turn it down similar to a pool cue and over a course of about a year put over 10 coats on it.  Each coat I let cure for several weeks.  Sanded each coat with higher grit each time, the final 4 coats were sanded with micro-mesh 4000, 6000, 8000, 12000.  The finish is truly like glass.  I have used tung oil on many wood projects and if you TAKE YOUR TIME, if it feels, smells dry wait another week and then apply another coat.  Tung oil is the ultimate for any woodwork although it takes a long time to do it right.  Be patient, once finished it will never ever need anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW&#xA;Once had an emergency while hiking and had to leave my staff in the woods to rush a youngling to the hospital.  Forgot about it, a couple months later it came up in a conversation and I thought Oh S%#t my staff.  Went back to where the disaster happened and my staff was still there, still looked perfect.&#xA;When tung oil soaks into the wood and becomes part of the wood it is sealed forever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8521" LastActivityDate="2020-04-19T03:33:15.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10517" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-19T17:07:38.057" Score="1" ViewCount="449" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm very new to woodworking and am mostly learning from my numerous mistakes. At home, I have two pine boards that sit atop my table and function as a tabletop and also as a work surface for all of my projects. (My apartment has limited space, so I wanted the table to do double duty.) The table top consists of two identical pieces of pine held side-by-side via clamps that clamp to the table beneath them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, the pine boards are pretty marred from stains and cuts (since my old polyurethane coating is gone by now), so I want to sand the boards, stain them, and re-polyurethane them. The sanding has been a nightmare, though. I have been using a belt sander with 40-grit on high power, because my previous sanding at higher grits left tearout, and I wanted to even everything out and start again. Anyway, after my first goofs with tearout (at a considerably higher grit than 40), I put putty into the tearout places and sanded with 40-grit paper using the belt sander. So far so good. Then I progressed to 80-grit, and huge tearout re-occurred! What can I do to successfully use a belt sander on pine without all of this tearout?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8524" LastActivityDate="2020-04-20T06:01:26.847" Title="How can I avoid tearout when using a belt sander on pine?" Tags="|sanding|pine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10517" CreationDate="2020-04-20T06:01:26.847" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Belt sanders are rough tools and the end result is never going to be good enough for polyurethane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use your sander carefully to get the tabletop as flat as you can, then switch to either a random orbit sander or sanding by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hand sanding gives better results, but it's slow. Wrap the paper over a block of wood especially for rougher sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8503" LastActivityDate="2020-04-20T06:01:26.847" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10520" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10522" CreationDate="2020-04-20T23:26:04.120" Score="5" ViewCount="352" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a project coming up that involves a lot of medium-small holes in several 4x8 sheets of 5/8ths baltic birch veneer. (&lt;strike&gt;I don't have the plans in front of me, but I recall that&lt;/strike&gt; the holes are &lt;strike&gt;about&lt;/strike&gt; 1 inch nominal &lt;strike&gt;or a little larger&lt;/strike&gt;.) I think I have plan for making the holes: careful marking out of a grid, and then lots of forstner cuts with a jig. I'll have a sacrificial sheet of cheaper plywood underneath to minimize tear-out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The holes are for dowels which, ideally, will slide in with a pretty tight interference fit. To make this slide easier (the idea is that the dowels can be moved) I'm thinking about chamfering the holes. I think this will look nicer, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw on a &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/TPVq0zXKy3c?t=224&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube video&lt;/a&gt; someone using what looks like a dedicated tool for this purpose, but I can't quite tell what it is. Maybe a small router, but I have no idea what tool would be mounted in it. I'm pretty sure I don't want to do this with my router, as I'm certain any bit I can get for that will start to climb-cut, and then there's me with fewer fingers again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/q/4843/5572&quot;&gt;this older question&lt;/a&gt; that gets to the heart of what I want to do: clean up the internal top edges of cuts in decent quality plywood, but in my case I'm hoping for a mechanised solution for multiple smaller diameter holes for ease and consistency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any good ideas for light chamfering the facing edges of lots of medium diameter holes in baltic birch veneer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-04-21T19:28:30.577" LastActivityDate="2020-04-21T19:28:30.577" Title="Chamfering medium diameter holes in birch veneer plywood" Tags="|technique|plywood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10520" CreationDate="2020-04-21T01:29:23.813" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, it looks like (surprise!) what I want &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; a plunge (or plunge-by-hand) router with a chamfering tool installed. In this example I found it's a trim or compact router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key was to search for info on people building benches and needing to chamfer bench dog holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not keen on using my hard-start Craftsman non-plunge router for this. I mean, I could get a plunge accessory (maybe) but this looks like I ought to part with some money for a compact router to save some time. I may have another project coming up that'll be easier with a compact router, anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even as much as I like the hand &quot;bench dog hole chamfering tool&quot; I see come up, I'm not that interested in getting a single-use tool (and having to have a set of them for different diameters) or putting my wrists through all that work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks like I have to do some research on &lt;em&gt;safely&lt;/em&gt; using 1/4in chamfer bits in holes. I bet I could even find a tool to cut &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; chamfer the holes in one go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-04-21T01:38:55.017" LastActivityDate="2020-04-21T01:38:55.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10520" CreationDate="2020-04-21T05:58:46.393" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tool in the video is a &quot;trim router&quot;. Basically exactly the same as a a regular router, but smaller and lighter. Less power means they can't remove much material on each pass, but the lighter weight gives the user much more control. They're easier to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks like a &quot;roundover&quot; bit to me. A chamfer bit would work fine though personally I think rounded will look nicer and be more durable (chamfered edges tend to chip or dent).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't use the &quot;plunge&quot; feature in a router for a job like this. Lock it into the correct depth with test cuts on scrap timber. The less things that can move the better. Make sure the work piece is clamped to the table so the only thing that can move is the tool which I'd move nice and slowly (not too slow or you'll create excessive heat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How thin is the outer veneer on your plywood? Often the outer layer is nearly as thin as a sheet of paper which might not produce good results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8503" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-04-21T14:55:03.473" LastActivityDate="2020-04-21T14:55:03.473" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10523" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-21T23:39:43.037" Score="0" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a dining table made out of Acacia Wood. The process of preparation was:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mill the table flat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sand the table to 180 Grit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spray Nitrocellulose Lacquer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lightly sand back&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spray 4 heavier coats of Nitrocellulose Lacquer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The table felt nice and smooth and was perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, whenever there are water spots, these are causing white blemishes along the grain, and are raised (you can feel a bump when you run your finger over it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are these, are what's causing these?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How can I avoid this in the future?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I correct the existing blemishes?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O5XP0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O5XP0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5014" LastActivityDate="2020-04-21T23:39:43.037" Title="What are these blemishes along the grain and how do I correct them?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10524" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10528" CreationDate="2020-04-22T02:51:53.130" Score="0" ViewCount="186" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I make my wood project outside more resistant to rain and other weather? Is there some coatings that would work well or some other methods?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8534" LastActivityDate="2020-04-22T20:05:25.760" Title="Best way to make wood weather resistant?" Tags="|outdoor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10525" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10533" CreationDate="2020-04-22T04:09:29.110" Score="1" ViewCount="5726" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, this is usually a problem for particleboard shelves, which bow under the weight of books. But my question is actually about the desk, which I built myself:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a small desk (36x20inch), its top are just four 1x5 cheapest squared white boards from Home Depot (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-in-x-5-in-x-8-ft-Premium-Kiln-Dried-Square-Edge-Whitewood-Common-Board-765078/100009706&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;) - glued together. The whole desk was stained and then I applied 3 coats of water based polyurethane. Here is the project:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7jcZZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7jcZZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because there is no support under the desktop (besides the legs), I'm afraid it will start bowing under the pressure of laptop and monitor over time. There is no additional support because maximum clearance was very important. I have a few questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is my concern even valid? considering pretty short the length of the desk (as well as the fact that it's a solid wood + 3 coats of polyurethane)?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If my concern is valid what's the best way to prevent the top from bowing, while keeping the maximum clearance? I was thinking about 10 in. Zinc-Plated Corner Brace &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-10-in-Zinc-Plated-Corner-Brace-15085/202033947&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;10 in. Zinc-Plated Corner Brace&lt;/a&gt; mounted like this. Does it make any sense? Is it needed?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZzGV3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZzGV3.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8535" LastActivityDate="2020-04-23T14:34:36.840" Title="How to prevent desktop from bowing?" Tags="|wood|warp|bending|bowing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10524" CreationDate="2020-04-22T07:08:09.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are painting or staining  project, do it before it is assembled. At least primer, or 1 coat stain, if not 2 coats with what ever the finish is you are using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trick is moisture gets between the parts that make up a project and if the project is painted after assembly, all the parts where they come together are still bare. Water will soak into those areas and start the decaying process. Paint or stain will block that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or use pressure treated material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2020-04-22T07:08:09.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10527" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10720" CreationDate="2020-04-22T14:22:50.467" Score="1" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've decided to make a pizza peel from aluminium sheet with an ash handle, and because aluminium sheet isn't very strong I'm going for a full tang construction. As ash is nice to work green, I've roughly shaped the wood, which was still growing yesterday, and I now have a pair of scales, roughly 1.5&amp;nbsp;cm thick by 3&amp;nbsp;cm wide.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When making full tang knives, it seems to be common to epoxy the scales onto the tang for shaping, before finally pinning them for strength (necessary in a knife, perhaps less so in a pizza peel, depending on how good the bond to the metal is).  I'll either use it without a handle or make something temporary until the ash is ready. Once glued on, I'll want to finish the job fairly quickly, finishing the wood with either BLO or varnish (I haven't decided yet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;An attempt at measuring moisture content with basic tools (edit):&lt;/strong&gt; I've weighed the wood, and approximately calculated its volume and therefore density .  Comparing that to published weights for &quot;dry&quot; (unspecified but I assumed 10% as 8-12% seems to be a reasonable range depending on use) I get 26%.  Sticking a couple of pins in, measuring the resistance with a multimeter, and referring to an old chart (reprinted &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Philipp_Dietsch/publication/271662330_Methods_to_determine_wood_moisture_content_and_their_applicability_in_monitoring_concepts/links/55946b4708ae21086d1ed570/Methods-to-determine-wood-moisture-content-and-their-applicability-in-monitoring-concepts.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;)  I get a surprisingly similar value, however even taking into account the seasonal variation in moisture content of growing timber this figure is rather low.  I suspect I've had a fair bit of surface drying already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much seasoning is needed before I can epoxy the ash onto the aluminium? If either of my proposed finishes would require much longer seasoning, it would be nice to know, to minimise the amount of time it's half-finished&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2020-04-22T20:58:19.633" LastActivityDate="2020-06-13T08:18:46.830" Title="Ash, seasoning, and epoxying to aluminium" Tags="|finishing|glue|wood-drying|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10524" CreationDate="2020-04-22T16:02:20.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, go in with the understanding that anything outside will fail eventually.  Sun and water are both brutal forces over the long term.  Either you will have to reapply finish periodically or the project will decay eventually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first (and probably most important) thing you can do is to select a wood that is naturally rot-resistant.  Teak is probably the go-to for this, but it can be pretty expensive.  Ipe, black locust, and osage orange are also very good.  Oak (white in particular), and cedar are also good commonly found species for rot resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it will also help if you make your design drain well.  Avoid large flat surfaces or joinery where water will seep in (like breadboard ends on a tabletop).  Use slats for surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For finishes, there are a lot of products marketed as &quot;outdoor&quot;.  If you really want the gold standard start by sealing everything with CPES and put on several coats of epifanes clear varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2020-04-22T20:05:25.760" LastActivityDate="2020-04-22T20:05:25.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10529" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-22T18:36:59.607" Score="1" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took two from an old table I bought retail. Need two more though. No idea where to get something like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fVcL4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fVcL4.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8540" LastActivityDate="2020-04-22T18:36:59.607" Title="Where to get a brace like this?" Tags="|tabletop|table-making|materials|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="65" CreationDate="2020-04-23T07:24:09.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why not collect your wood dust to make cheap wood filler?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can mix the dust with wood glue to make a paste which can be used to fill anything without needing to stain as much to match the colours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2509" LastActivityDate="2020-04-23T07:24:09.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10531" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10535" CreationDate="2020-04-23T07:52:59.297" Score="2" ViewCount="4647" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not looking to upset my wife by trying the house vacuum cleaner, so I am looking at buying something separate for my small shed workshop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at dust extraction options, the cheapest dust extractor I can find is a 1200W one around £350 whereas I can buy, say, a 1400W wet &amp;amp; dry vacuum cleaner with the same capacity or about £70.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is using a wet &amp;amp; dry vacuum cleaner suitable for use as a dust extractor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2509" LastActivityDate="2020-04-23T17:08:17.453" Title="Is using a wet &amp; dry vacuum cleaner suitable for use as a dust extractor?" Tags="|power-tools|dust-collection|sawdust|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10532" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-23T11:04:38.150" Score="1" ViewCount="176" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to finish a small piece with brushing lacquer, which I have not used before. The can says that I should not apply it if the temperature is below 55F (13C). The temperature in my area has hovered around 45-50F for weeks now, and this simple project is stuck in limbo. I'm working in an unheated garage, and I'm afraid of starting a fire if I bring in a space heater. How strictly should I follow this rule? I'm getting very impatient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8005" LastActivityDate="2020-04-23T11:04:38.150" Title="How strictly should I follow temperature guidelines for brushing lacquer?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10525" CreationDate="2020-04-23T13:16:56.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;The asked question:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sagulator&lt;/a&gt; is the generally accepted reference for determining if shelves are going to be strong enough to support the expected load over the desired span. Your table is nothing more than a very deep shelf, so lets take a look:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your situation of &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a 29&quot; clear span (36&quot; overall minus 2 @ 3.5&quot; 2x4), &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a 3/4&quot; piece of Eastern White Pine (and option for &quot;white wood&quot; which is SPF - Spruce, Pine, Fir - i.e. whatever is cheapest on the day we made the purchase) on a 4.5&quot; wide shelf (just one single piece of your top) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;30 pounds of weight distributed evenly &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Sagulator shows a sag of just 0.01&quot;. That will hardly be noticeable. Increasing the shelf to to the full 18&quot; depth of your table top (4.5&quot; * 4 boards) yields 0.00&quot; of sag. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your desktop is sufficiently strong for a laptop, monitor, a pile of school books (or other reading material), and whatever other detritus of life collects upon it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The unasked question:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more pressing concern is racking - horizontal forces applied to the table that could cause it to come apart. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this was simply nailed together and I needed to disassemble it, I'd flip it over and push the legs sideways until they came apart. Racking is the unintentional application of that process while it's standing upright. Assembly with screws will provide more resistance to being pulled out, but the wood holding them in, especially SPF, can still give way resulting in a collapsed table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making the assumption that this will be pushed against a wall, I'd add diagonal bracing on the wall side. Taking 2 2x4s, cut a 45°&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt; on each end and put them at a diagonal from the bottom of each leg toward the center of the table top. You can put these on the side that will be against the wall - they do &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; need to be centered in the 18&quot; depth of the table. Screw them in and you'll go from a bit wobbly to rock solid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you're at it, you may want to add diagonals &lt;em&gt;within&lt;/em&gt; the 2x4 boxes that make up the legs. I'd put one in each leg, one running from the top rear to bottom front of one leg and one running from bottom rear to top front of the other leg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your comments also included questions about using metal bracing with diagonals. One of these diagonal braces that you've described should also serve the purpose of bracing against racking. You can use whichever looks better or, if it's to be in the middle of a room instead of against the wall, whichever provides more leg room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Based on additional info in the comments:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the need to pull this table over the arms of a chair, I'd suggest flat metal brackets like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lowes.com/pd/National-Hardware-4-Pack-3-5-in-x-4-in-x-0-07-in-Zinc-Alloy-Flat-Brace/1000152255&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rS664.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rS664.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image provided by Lowes.com. No particular endorsement of this brand or store implied.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apply one leg of the bracket to the 1-by and one leg to the 2-by supporting it (so they're on the &quot;face&quot; as you pull it toward the chair). Applied on each corner, these should provide sufficient racking resistance while allowing maximum clearance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These particular brackets have 3.5&quot; and 4&quot; legs. I would think that would be enough to prevent racking. You may want to see if you can find ones with longer legs, especially since this table will be moved on a regular basis. Be aware that as the legs get longer, the width of each leg will increase to provide the necessary strength. Be sure to get ones that do not have legs that are wider than the 3/4&quot; actual width of your 1-by material. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you're at it, you could also use a set of 4 on each leg (joining horizontal 2x4 to vertical 2x4) to prevent them from racking as you drag the table toward you and push it away. This may actually be better than the diagonal 2x4 recommended above, since it will firmly resit racking in both directions for a table that will be moved regularly. The width of the legs for these won't matter much since you're very unlikely to find any brackets with legs wider than the 1.5&quot; of your 2x4 material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;But these ain't pretty!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I recognize that these brackets are not &lt;s&gt;particularly&lt;/s&gt; pretty in any way, shape, or form. You could hide them by routing/chiseling/sanding a recess to set them into, then covering the entire face with some edge-banding/veneer, but that may be beyond the need or your abilities for this particular project. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had not already glued your table top together, you may have been able to cut a recess on the &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; of the boards and embed them between the two outer boards on each side, but A) it's too late, and B) that would have taken some sort of filler block on the inside of the leg for them to mount to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;hr&gt;&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt; You don't indicate the height of your table, so the 45° angle is just a guess. Cut the angles as necessary to ensure that both braces will fit. If it's tall enough that a piece at a 45° doesn't reach to the center, it's still OK, that will provide enough diagonal bracing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2020-04-23T14:34:36.840" LastActivityDate="2020-04-23T14:34:36.840" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10534" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-23T13:23:59.560" Score="0" ViewCount="234" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a old 1950s truck tailgate which measures 49 3/4 inches wide and 24 inches tall. I want to turn into a bench that will fold up and down that will mount to a wall. The wall has standard 2x4 16 inch spacing studs. I have put together a picture of how I am thinking of doing this. My idea was using 2 side supports along with a bottom footer that would attach to the wall using 4 3/8 inch lag screws and 3 along the bottom. The side supports would be made by gluing together a 3.5 inch wide x 24 inch and 2.5 inch wide x 24 hard maple. I would place the lag screws on the 3.5 inch wide portion so that the screws will be hidden when the tailgate is in the up position. I believe this should hold but I keep talking myself out of it. I also was concerned of the eye hook plate for holding the chain to the tailgate will be taking a large portion of the load as well it would be about 2 inches big with 4 screws holding them in place  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ij2AJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ij2AJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: The intended use of this is to be a seating bench. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8543" LastEditorUserId="8543" LastEditDate="2020-04-23T15:47:41.627" LastActivityDate="2020-04-23T15:47:41.627" Title="How to safely secure tailgate bench to studs" Tags="|wood|fasteners|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10531" CreationDate="2020-04-23T15:57:48.217" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A shop-vac (generic use, not the name brand) will work just fine for light-duty dust collection. Particularly when the dust stream is run through a cyclone collector. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cyclone collector will separate the majority of the debris stream from the air stream making the vacuum's job easier and reducing the rate at which the filter clogs and needs to be cleaned/replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick web search for &quot;build cyclone dust collector&quot; with turn up lots of written and video instructions on how to build one. Many can be built out of a 5-gallon bucket and a couple of hose fittings for around $5 (adjust based on your local currency). It appears from my current search that most of the 5-gallon bucket instructions are in videos, as I'm not finding written instructions at the moment. However, 30-minutes of watching videos will give you the right ideas and will save you $100s over buying a manufactured one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2020-04-23T17:08:17.453" LastActivityDate="2020-04-23T17:08:17.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10536" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-23T18:30:36.747" Score="0" ViewCount="203" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought an old wine barrel second-hand. The owners said it was used previously as decoration in a restaurant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to lighten up the colour so started to use sandpaper on certain parts. It was looking good so I thought I would continue, but then considered if I should be taking any precautions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think it’s safe to sandpaper by hand? Am I putting anything dangerous in the air that I shouldn’t be breathing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m not sure what kind of stains are on the barrel or if it just looks like that because it’s very old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never do any wood work so all advice appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to be careful or am I just fine to go ahead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UtW4V.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UtW4V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8545" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2020-04-24T18:35:54.710" LastActivityDate="2020-04-24T18:35:54.710" Title="Is it dangerous to sandpaper an old wine barrel?" Tags="|wood|sanding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10536" CreationDate="2020-04-23T18:48:33.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sanding creates fine dust, which can be an irritant. You should have a basic mask at a minimum. In a perfect world, you'd be doing it away from living quarters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There isn't likely to be any finish on it that presents health concerns. (If it was painted, we'd be asking about lead-based paint, which is a concern.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different species behave differently, with the general trend that the oilier ones are more of a problem... white oak (which the barrel is almost certainly made of if it was really a barrel) isn't usually high on the irritating list. Your mileage may vary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2020-04-23T18:48:33.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10538" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10540" CreationDate="2020-04-23T19:05:45.190" Score="3" ViewCount="256" Body="&lt;p&gt;I picked this up at a yard sale for ~$2 about 6 months ago and have been trying to figure out what the heck it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be greatly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aQmej.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aQmej.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Not sure what this thing is&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE 4/26/20&lt;/strong&gt; - added more pictures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes, it does pivot - there seems to be a spring of some sort in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/trb2o.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/trb2o.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;new pic 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wEI7v.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wEI7v.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;new pic 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jiL3V.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jiL3V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;new pic 3&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h4z0W.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h4z0W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;new pic 4&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE 4/27/20&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While there doesn't seem to be complete understanding, it sounds like a double marking gauge of some sort. I appreciate everyone's assistance on this! I'll have to figure out if it's worth me trying to understand it, or repurpose the pieces into something more interesting!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8546" LastEditorUserId="8546" LastEditDate="2020-04-27T16:13:49.033" LastActivityDate="2020-04-27T16:13:49.033" Title="Tool Identification" Tags="|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="65" CreationDate="2020-04-23T21:28:50.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use it around the house as an absorbent.  I keep a box of sawdust in the garage (I have the same setup as you) and end up using it at about the same rate that I generate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sawdust in the bottom of a kitchen compost collection bucket absorbs liquids and keeps the compost bucket from getting gross.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sawdust also keeps the bottom of your garbage bin from getting nasty.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sawdust sprinkled on an oil drip in the driveway picks it up pretty effectively.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I have too much sawdust, I spread it in the grass to add organic material to the yard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8547" LastActivityDate="2020-04-23T21:28:50.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10538" CreationDate="2020-04-24T16:16:12.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to call that a double marking gauge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Double because it looks like you can separate the two rods and set them independently. (Useful for marking independent sides of a mortise, for example.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2020-04-24T16:16:12.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10544" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-27T13:34:06.193" Score="0" ViewCount="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have painted a scene on the wall behind my kitchen stove. Now I need to protect the paint to that it 1) doesn't absorb cooking spatters and 2) is washable for the cooking spatters that do land on it and 3) won't change the paint colors.  I know this isn't exactly a woodworking question, but I'm looking for any help I can find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8561" LastActivityDate="2020-04-27T13:34:06.193" Title="Not woodworking, but..need a washable sealant that won't absorb grease to be applied over a painted wall" Tags="|paint|varnish|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10545" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10547" CreationDate="2020-04-27T15:28:38.353" Score="0" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about building a country kitchen table. The link below is the design I'm considering for the frame.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm trying to figure out is how the woodworker got those large round overs so perfect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I see an amazing lack of fasteners. I recognize that the 2x6 construction allows you to hide fasteners, but I do not see any in the cantilevered pieces either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood putty or some tricky joinery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UYfae.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UYfae.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://pin.it/6m9rVk2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://pin.it/6m9rVk2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4323" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-04-28T13:32:04.227" LastActivityDate="2020-04-28T16:48:51.760" Title="Smooth round over on large pieces of wood" Tags="|technique|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10545" CreationDate="2020-04-27T16:30:23.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess would be a bandsaw and sandpaper to get those nice round overs. The invisible fasteners could be a number of things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mortise/tenon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wood glue&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;biscuit/domino/rod joinery&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess would be a combination of all. I don't see screw holes nor wood filler, but they might just be that good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3759" LastActivityDate="2020-04-27T16:30:23.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10545" CreationDate="2020-04-28T04:20:50.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To get round ends on the bottom, use a band saw&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;  &#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Wood putty or some tricky joinery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No wood putty needed or tricky joinery needed.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Some of my ideas on how to create the hidden connectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For the long span – Mortise/tenon – easy to do. The middle pieces are cripple from the top to the span board.  Another cripple from the bottom up to the span board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The center post can be made of three pieces laminated together.  The two outer pieces use screws on the backside to fasten the 45^ brace &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The top pieces are also laminated with either 2 or three layers.  On the bottom layer, use screws to connect to the angle brace before laminating the top pieces&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Picture from &quot;furniturebypete&quot;:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z8lza.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z8lza.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can go to this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ana-white.com/woodworking-projects/fancy-x-farmhouse-bench&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;woodworking projects sites&lt;/a&gt; (and others) for free plans on how to build one similar to your design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8556" LastEditorUserId="8556" LastEditDate="2020-04-28T16:48:51.760" LastActivityDate="2020-04-28T16:48:51.760" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10548" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-28T17:04:53.443" Score="1" ViewCount="184" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a lot of space and want neat design for a glass table. I have designed a table which will have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;legs- 4 oak\beech, 3&quot; x 3&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;frame on top of the legs - 8' long of 40mm (1 9/16) steel angle &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tabletop - glass of 1/2&quot;, 9' long and 3' wide&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to have a cut across the legs and push the angle beam into the legs, and have them on the same plane as the wood legs (please see a picture below for example)&#xA;In each leg, 2 holes will be drilled and will fix the steel beam with 3/8 bolts and washer. In the last 2 pictures you can see the entire table and the cross-section of the table legs.&#xA;The glass tabletop will be glued across the entire steel beam, so although the glass tabletop weigh 200lbs, there will be a lot of contact point and I see no problem around here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe this should be strong enough for both the base load and to avoid racking.&#xA;I am not worried on racking on the long side, as the steel angle will function as aprons, and be joined in bolts to the wood leg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am worried about racking on the short side, as it is could break (the bolt will be installed only 1&quot; from the end of the leg.&#xA;I liked @Aloysius Defenestrate idea of drilling a hole and welding a rod\conduit for strength, I am just not sure that this metal rod\conduit will not also bend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would you advise (other than a model - great advise!) to hanle with racking on the shorter side?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7hTZC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7hTZC.png&quot; alt=&quot;table leg design&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FsMet.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FsMet.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wHMui.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wHMui.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8563" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-04-30T14:32:46.753" LastActivityDate="2020-05-01T15:40:27.257" Title="Wood legs, steel frame and glasstop design" Tags="|table-making|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="26" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10550" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10551" CreationDate="2020-04-29T22:11:18.247" Score="1" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to build a streetlibrary.org.au. About 50cm square from the front, a shelf, with a peaked roof,  20cm deep, glass door, mounted on a post. I'd use solid pine or Tas oak (local eucalyptus), painted or varnished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of edge joining (with dowel) boards for the sides, forming a large opening at the front.  I would join the sides using box joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R9f8c.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R9f8c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sketch&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does my design meet the following design criteria:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is functional &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;keeps a few books dry and accessible&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is durable &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is simple, elegant&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1125" LastActivityDate="2020-05-02T12:33:37.607" Title="Make a Street Library" Tags="|design|outdoor|boxes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10550" CreationDate="2020-04-30T15:12:00.847" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;[SE sites don't really like &quot;any other suggestions?&quot; questions, but we can &lt;em&gt;probably&lt;/em&gt; discuss specific design aspects for this specific project in order to make &quot;good&quot; answers. If this gets voted closed, so be it.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is definitely one of those designs where form follows function. If we want to consider this as serious fun, let's over-build a little library for fun and profit. Consider this one of those situations where any fun design will be in the details, and stick to the absolute basics for material and build.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is basically a box, but one that has to withstand years unprotected by the elements. We can't even bury part of it in the ground and put trees around it to help. It's stuck on a pole or fence, and the openings have to satisfy how people want to use it, not how most of the wet will be driven in. So, it has to be simple, but it also has to take advantage of your material and design to minimize these major problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of this not as a little house, but a little garage or shed (or ridiculously overbuilt birdhouse). You do not need &quot;rafters&quot; because your roof just doesn't have that much mass. There is no way the walls will bow out because of a snow-load, for example. So, make an oversized roof to help protect the walls and the openings tied directly to the walls. Think about those house designs that we see in monsoon-prone areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We also don't have to worry about making anything airtight. In fact, like buildings that live through monsoons, we want as much air movement a possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider how water seeks any seam, collects and then seeks more seams. Reducing water ingress is actually a number of interconnected ideas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slough off water as much as possible. Don't expose seams, and assume water will be driven in from all sorts of directions. Make sure you give it plenty of opportunity to drain full away.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assume water will enter, and allow for that ingress to drain off as well; we don't want overlapping seams, for example, but we also want water to drain out of places it has leaked into. Standing water is the enemy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure openings (i.e. any cute doors you design) have simple drip-edges and ways for driven moisture to drain out the bottom and to the outside. Butt-join doors on little libraries &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; leak into the main area!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assume water will enter the main &quot;living area&quot;, and the contents might get damp. Don't let the contents sit in damp, and give it space to breathe and dry out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all this in mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oversized high-pitch roof to protect walls and openings. Roof doesn't expose a seam at the apex, but rather uses two or more layers so seams are staggered. Make sure moisture can run along the layers to the outside edges.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For air flow I'd design in soffits (really!) to let heat and moisture escape. See the bullet point about pest control, though.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't bother with a ceiling or rafters. We want this airy with lots of space to the roof-line. It's not like we are going to blow insulation into the attic, so creating an attic space is useless.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Main area should actually have a floor and sub-floor. I'd consider staggered drain holes in the floors directly to the outside bottom, and slope the floor for complete drainage. Standing water is the enemy here.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Doors and openings should include drip edges and allow drainage to the outside. If there is no door (because little doors always sag and become unusable) I'd bring the roof out, and/or design a little porch to protect the opening.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For material I'd definitely spring for pressure treated lumber for the main build, and get some scraps of prettier weather resistant stuff for the outside (e.g., Western Red Cedar if you live in the Americas). Or stick to PTL for the finish as well. (If you want to use regular lumber and good paint, you'll be repainting it regularly. Just saying.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't forget about pests and mold. Any library in a temperate zone is going to eventually attract arthropod pests and allow for fungal growth. The former can be somewhat alleviated by the use of screens and sealing seams (this is where pest control and moisture control overlap). You might want to manage fungal growth with the appropriate finish on the inside.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that's one way to over-engineer a little library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-05-02T12:33:37.607" LastActivityDate="2020-05-02T12:33:37.607" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10552" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-30T17:13:12.623" Score="0" ViewCount="822" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is a Duplex and Max #6 Biscuit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://amzn.to/35kkHhj&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Porter-Cable joiner&lt;/a&gt; info indicates &quot;seven-position rotating depth stop works for standard #0, #10, #20 as well as Simplex, Duplex, and Max (#6) joinery&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?10128-Biscuits-Joiner-question&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;It seems&lt;/a&gt; simplex is made by a high end manufacturer Lamello.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these products no longer offered? Is that why an answer isn't more readily available?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2253" LastEditorUserId="2253" LastEditDate="2020-04-30T19:18:43.477" LastActivityDate="2020-05-04T18:40:33.670" Title="What is a Duplex and Max #6 Biscuit?" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10552" CreationDate="2020-04-30T17:40:06.303" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm reading that as a list of three distinct items, of which the third is &quot;Max (#6)&quot;. i.e., not two items that are Simplex; mostly because &quot;Simplex Duplex&quot; makes no sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They probably mean an &quot;S6&quot; biscuit, which is dimensioned 85 x 30 x 4mm. The internet tells me this is a proprietary size, but it looks like Porter-Cable supports it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is one large biscuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-05-04T18:40:33.670" LastActivityDate="2020-05-04T18:40:33.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10554" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-30T19:14:16.653" Score="0" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;The standard 5/32&quot; biscuits seems a bit thin for a strong joint for thicker boards. A Feastool seems like the perfect tool, however it is a high price point for my volume. I have a 1/4&quot; slot cutter router, however would prefer not to make custom biscuits if possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any manufacturer that makes round or thicker than standard (1/4&quot; thick or more) joiner biscuits that I'm missing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems MLCS comes closest with their #&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/graphics2/TM22biscuit.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;H-9&lt;/a&gt;, and according to their support no long available #11,  Biscuits or Feastool's 6mm Tenons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note: while writing this question realized making a two biscuit cuts parallel to each other would do the trick too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2253" LastActivityDate="2021-02-03T14:56:27.997" Title="Joiner materials for larger than standard routing" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10555" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-01T00:24:51.330" Score="2" ViewCount="1098" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a kitchen cabinet into a concrete wall that has been rendered imperfectly (over concrete blocks that weren't perfect either).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some places, the front of my plywood cabinet box is flush with the wall, in other places the cabinet protrudes by 5mm (1/8&quot;). I then have doors and drawer faces that protrude from the wall by the thickness of their timber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My idea is to add a wooden trim around the cabinet stained/varnished exactly the same as the doors/drawers. The trim will blend in with the doors/walls and at a passing glance only the person who built it (me) will notice a change in thickness over the full height of the cabinet. The protrusion of the cabinet and doors combined will vary from 25mm to 30mm, instead of what I have now - where some drawers touch the wall and others close 5mm away from the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I accurately cut the trim to match the exact shape of the wall? The render has no texture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of attaching a strip of MDF to the hole in the wall protruding slightly, then I'll use a flush trim bit on a hand held router to make it exactly the same as the wall, then the same technique to transfer this onto the hardwood trim that will be stained/varnished/glued onto the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this work? Is there some better approach? Re-rendering the wall to be flush with the cabinet would be far more work &amp;amp; expense than I'm willing to spend on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mguhi.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mguhi.png&quot; alt=&quot;Overview&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N0jYY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N0jYY.png&quot; alt=&quot;Close Up&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8503" LastEditorUserId="8503" LastEditDate="2020-05-01T02:38:20.443" LastActivityDate="2020-05-01T18:10:43.063" Title="Flush fitting to an uneven surface" Tags="|finishing|technique|router|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10554" CreationDate="2020-05-01T00:40:58.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is a biscuit's primary purpose is to hold the timber perfectly in position as the glue dries which often takes days even with glue that &quot;dries&quot; in minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example I have a tube of &quot;instant&quot; liquid nails that advertises a strong hold after just 2 seconds but requires a full week to reach it's full strength potential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any movement during that week massively reduces the strength of the glue bond. I've even seen joints separate entirely due to expansion/contraction of the timber as it adjusts to the ambient humidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A biscuit only needs to be strong enough to hold the timber in position for an hour or a few days after which the glue alone will be strong enough to hold the joint together (dowels or screws or brad nails or clamps or a spline joint would be just as effective, but biscuits can be quicker/easier than any of those).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many glues are so strong even with a sledge hammer you'll struggle to separate an edge joint. The timber will splinter and snap while the joint holds strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These things obviously vary depending on the timber and glue being used as well as surface preparation (sanding/cleaning/etc). If you're worried your joint won't be strong enough, test it out with a scrap piece of timber. If it doesn't work, I suspect you're doing something else wrong (for example some biscuit jointers cut the slot too big the biscuit should need a light taps with a hammer force it into the hole).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8503" LastEditorUserId="8503" LastEditDate="2020-05-01T01:05:21.917" LastActivityDate="2020-05-01T01:05:21.917" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10548" CreationDate="2020-05-01T01:42:54.617" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think the wood joints are strong enough. If somebody leans on the table pushing it sideways, the leg is translating that via a lever action onto the joint with a tremendous amount of force. Think about how much torque a 1 metre long spanner can provide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Experiment with scrap timber to confirm, but I suspect you need the joint to start 100mm down from the top of the leg as a minimum. 40mm just isn't enough. Also use glue instead of (or in addition to) bolts. A glue joint has a larger surface area than any bolt which will help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could perhaps run a steel rod down inside the leg, but I don't have enough experience with steel to know how strong the welded joint would be. Another option might be using 100mm to 150mm steel angle instead of 40mm (and cut the steel down to 40mm away from the leg)... though it might be difficult to find such a large steel angle without being 10mm thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8503" LastActivityDate="2020-05-01T01:42:54.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10555" CreationDate="2020-05-01T05:22:04.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done something similar to what you are trying to do.  These cabinets are self-standing and are not attached to the back wall. Even on the sides, the gap between the cabinet and the side wall has a taper in the gap. The wall behind the cabinets are not even, probably lean to the front on top.  &lt;br/&gt;&#xA;The cabinets are locked in place by long screw in the side of the cabinet to the side walls.  No screws or bolts in the back of the cabinets.&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MbmoE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MbmoE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tanz4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tanz4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;Answer modified based on OP edits to original Questions and comments&lt;/b&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Your cabinet, as built, should have a flush front to what you want. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With your cabinet, align the front of all the cabinets, drawers, doors to be flush and even with each other. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Have your cabinet extend out approx 1&quot; from the face of the wall. How far it extends should be the thickness of your trim.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With your cabinet, align the front of all the cabinets, drawers, doors to be flush and even with each other. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use edge trim like the way I did around the outline of the cabinets doors and drawer.  The trim would be 3&quot; wide x 1&quot; thick. I am suggesting 1&quot; or 3/4 &quot; trim to help hide the uneveness of the supporting wall. Finish the trim to match the finish of your cabinets.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Plaster and feather the gap on the backside of the trim to the surrounding wall.  Even plastering the whole wall should not be that difficult. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GzoAv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GzoAv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8556" LastEditorUserId="8556" LastEditDate="2020-05-01T18:10:43.063" LastActivityDate="2020-05-01T18:10:43.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7569" CreationDate="2020-05-01T15:08:28.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's like honey crystallizing when it sits too long.  Just warm it up and mix it. It will turn back into oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8577" LastActivityDate="2020-05-01T15:08:28.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10548" CreationDate="2020-05-01T15:40:27.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, your question illustrates the first step in designing any project.  You have a basic idea and have attempted to solve it as shown in the sketches.  The next step (which your question initiates) is to challenge the design concept for viability both structurally and aesthetically.  To that end, my comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Structural considerations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The design as shown is VERY unstable. There is no bracing from side to side.  In fact the only connection between the legs on each side is the glass.  No glue connection of the glass to the steel is going to handle the rotational (tension) stress created between the legs and the glass.  Think about trying to drag the table in a direction perpendicular to the long axis.  The stress on the glue joint will be substantial and either the glue or the glass will fail (the metal angle is way to strong to fail).  It might be better to assume that the glass and leg assembly are independent with the glass resting on glazing shims of some sort.  Do not count on the glass to act structurally at all.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I assume that the depth of your angle's vertical leg of the long axis aprons is only several inches (2&quot;?).  This means that the bolts will be less than 1&quot; on center.  This spacing is inadequate for transferring the racking force from the aprons to the legs. The steel should take it, but not the wood. So much force close to the end of the wood legs will make it prone to failure, since there is not much wood left above the connectors to absorb/transfer the force.  The end grain may split due to shear force.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When moved, the angle will have a tendency to twist or bow. If each leg of the angle is not wide enough, then it cannot resist and the legs will not maintain their vertical orientation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have not dimensioned the member sizes, but your leg dimensions appear adequate to take the vertical load. However, as mentioned above, the connection between the wood and metal, wood will not easily transfer the stress as shown.  In addition, the bolts should have a solid (no gap) connection with both the angle and the wood.  Relying on the compression caused by tightening the bolt will not work for long if there is any movement in between the parts.  The connection will eventually start racking which will mean the legs will not maintain completely vertical orientation.  Things will get looser over time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aesthetic considerations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The glue joint you propose between the glass and the metal angle will be visible through the glass.  Applying enough glue uniformly to present an attractive appearance will be very difficult.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The exposed holes for the bolts may be necessary to tighten or unfasten the connections, but is not an, in my opinion, a very elegant woodworking detail.  A flush cut dowel would look better, but I would have serious concerns about its strength in this case.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You should consider the material for your angle.  Looking at your sketch, my first impression was that this was a standard steel angle. Look carefully at the uniformity of the surface.  If you desire a polish grade surface, you may find that standard rolled steel requires a lot of preparation work to achieve a desired level of subsurface levelness.  Painting a standard steel angle will call attention to the imperfections. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next Steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the design you have and evaluate it in view of any comments that you receive, {here and elsewhere).  Then start over again from scratch. Criticize, your new design and then compare it with previous ones. Rinse and repeat. The design process is iterative and you may go through many variations before you come up with the one that works.  Do look at other designs that have been attempted. All solid tables will have certain characteristics in common, for a good reason.  Certain design features (such as aprons on four sides) are simply necessary to function. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As commenters here have mentioned, you may have to build some mock-ups to test your design before going for the real thing.  This is good advice, especially for a unique design such as yours.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Short axis aprons are probably essential, although they need not be at the leg corners if the connections between perpendicular angles is solid (welded).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consider welding the bolts through the angles for solid connection rather than relying on tightening the bolts.  You could use steel bars instead of bolts and then grind/polish the exposed edges for a flush appearance with the wood legs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consider vertical rods welded to the underside of the angles extending down into the wood leg to help resist racking between the top frame and the legs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make certain that your glass top is thick enough to support itself with some weight on the top surface (1/4&quot; plate may not be strong enough).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consider other shapes for the legs to enhance the overall appearance. I am not criticizing the design you currently have, only trying to open up more possibilities. Any wood should be strong enough to support the purely vertical load so the legs could taper in any manner you desire.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you refine your design, feel free to come back for more comments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2020-05-01T15:40:27.257" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10562" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10565" CreationDate="2020-05-02T13:40:55.457" Score="0" ViewCount="145" Body="&lt;p&gt;The picture looks like simple miter but how can I make this a strong miter myself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CTGBt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CTGBt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8583" LastActivityDate="2020-05-03T23:30:29.330" Title="How can I replicate this joint?" Tags="|joinery|strength|miter-joint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10562" CreationDate="2020-05-02T14:19:39.783" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The indicated joint could be created using mortise and tenon, dowel pins, or biscuits. I suspect the level of strength is in that order as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's less likely that this joint is connected using pocket screws, but you could also accomplish a strong connection in that manner, and fill the screw holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gluing is implied in all cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2020-05-02T14:19:39.783" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10564" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10566" CreationDate="2020-05-02T16:47:30.190" Score="0" ViewCount="364" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built a bench out of some cheap Whitewood from my local bigbox store as a practice build and it turned out good enough to keep. I am going to put it in the yard next to the fire pit so it's going to be in the Texas elements year round. Any recommendations on what to use to stain/seal it and keep it looking good? I've no idea what Whitewood actually is but it seems pretty soft. Anybody have any experience with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8585" LastActivityDate="2020-05-03T06:32:40.257" Title="Stain/seal recommendations for whitewood (outside)" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10562" CreationDate="2020-05-02T22:36:24.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my view, the easiest way to make this angle miter stronger is with pocket hole screws and glue. The pocket hole setup only requires the drilling to be done on one piece.  After the holes are set, clamp the two pieces together and insert the screws.&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;All the normal low price jigs for the other joints are designed for 90^ or straight on joints. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;You could also use the pocket hole jig and create a dowel joint by drill through both pieces from the bottom.  This would require some setup time to determine and shim the guide to obtain the correct angle.  After the hole is cut, insert dowels the normal way. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Added illustrations of doing either the pockethole or dowel to strengthen the miter joint.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RtMjr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RtMjr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2o2Iv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2o2Iv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;To do the dowel, just continue with drill bit into the back piece after clamping together.  Once holes are drilled, short dowels can be inserted in the joint the normal way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8556" LastEditorUserId="8556" LastEditDate="2020-05-03T23:30:29.330" LastActivityDate="2020-05-03T23:30:29.330" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10564" CreationDate="2020-05-03T06:32:40.257" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The normal 'whitewood' in width of 8, 12&quot; that is pre-finished has a mdf or particleboard core.  This type of wood in not suitable for outdoor usage.  After several rains, the board will begin to warp or decompose.  If you do still want to use it outdoors, you would have to use a marine varnish that is capable of waterproofing the board. Any paint you use must be capable of waterproofing your bench.  The end of the board where it was cut, will be exposed to the elements and would require more effort to seal/protect the exposed wood.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8556" LastActivityDate="2020-05-03T06:32:40.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10567" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-03T11:15:59.610" Score="0" ViewCount="184" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Metabo HC260 planer/thicknesser (or jointer/planer if you must) and I bought a new set of blades for it. The original blades have a little notch on the back side where an adjustment screw sits (it has a flange). The blades I bought on the other hand don't have that notch. Now I'm wondering if it is still safe to install those blades?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm fully aware of how setting them up became infinitely more complex, but I was just wondering if that little notch plays a part in safely keeping that blade in place? (The last thing I want is a blade flying around thrown at 6500 rpm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blades I bought have exactly the same dimensions as the original ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's still unclear what I'm talking about then this is shown in this video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1uXh1fx6JE0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1uXh1fx6JE0&lt;/a&gt; (from 3:00).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5771" LastActivityDate="2020-05-03T11:15:59.610" Title="Metabo HC260 planer thicknesser blades" Tags="|thickness-planer|blade|planer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10568" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-03T21:38:30.770" Score="0" ViewCount="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make bedposts about 6&quot; square. I want to laminate cherry to the outside and wonder about the core. I thought I would use pine or ash as a core. worried about the expansion of the inner core splitting the cherry laminate. any suggestions would be appreciated.  thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8591" LastActivityDate="2020-05-03T21:38:30.770" Title="laminating cherry to pine or ash" Tags="|design|wood-selection|wood-movement|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10569" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-04T00:45:43.850" Score="1" ViewCount="904" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just purchased a Rikon 10-inch bandsaw. The blade keeps slipping. I have still to plug the machine if the blade would stay on the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I follow the following steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I lock the tension lever. There is a knob to further adjust the tension on the blade. On this machine there is no gauge to tell me how much to tense the blade. I tense it till a 1/4 inch deflection. Sometimes this is as much as the knob will turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then rotate the wheel by hand and adjust the tracking knob.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No matter how much I adjust the blade keeps drifting either to the front or back of the wheel, and eventually slips off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be greatly appreciated. I tried to contact Rikon and got no response.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8592" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-05-04T14:33:48.050" LastActivityDate="2020-05-07T16:45:49.250" Title="Bandsaw blade keeps drifting and slipping" Tags="|band-saw|blade|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10570" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10571" CreationDate="2020-05-04T13:20:09.687" Score="1" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was watching a YouTube video about DIY sofa upholstery. At &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/Wdy11hJX1-I?t=1052&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;17:34&lt;/a&gt; the guy pulls out some sort of long metal plate with screw-like protrusions on one side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3UwWC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3UwWC.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to be able to order (or make) one of those. So what are those called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8593" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-05-05T15:40:19.830" LastActivityDate="2020-05-05T15:40:19.830" Title="What is this item he is holding in this video?" Tags="|hardware-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10570" CreationDate="2020-05-04T13:45:42.383" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you seek is called an upholstery tack strip. The screw-like protrusions are barbs rather than screws and snag/catch the fabric to be stretched and secured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick search using these terms return many results with varied prices and locations to purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LIQCr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LIQCr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;tack strip image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2020-05-04T13:45:42.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1349" CreationDate="2020-05-05T22:25:43.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best use of pocket holes in joinery I have found is as a replacement for clamping.  When enough clamps are not available or the form of the project makes clamping challenging, it is helpful to to glue the joint and instead of clamping use the pocket hole to draw the and hold the pieces together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5274" LastActivityDate="2020-05-05T22:25:43.523" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10573" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10575" CreationDate="2020-05-06T02:32:52.597" Score="2" ViewCount="1120" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a home climbing wall to a very specific third party specification, and I need to drill 610 individual 7/16&quot; holes through 3/4&quot; plywood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any tools I could use (either rentable or cheap) to improve the consistency of the drilled holes? The holes are on a grid layout across 3 sheets of 4' x 8' plywood so I could stack the sheets to reduce work but I'm worried that I will get a bad angle on the wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to have a router style drill press that I can move around the wood to make it perfectly vertical?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8609" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-05-07T16:37:47.217" LastActivityDate="2020-05-19T22:01:10.650" Title="How to maintain consistency when drilling many holes in plywood" Tags="|plywood|drilling|jig|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10574" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-06T11:22:56.810" Score="2" ViewCount="271" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering how I could achieve a bevel along the edge of a table top where the angle changes smoothly along the way.  See reference image attached of this same effect on a chopping board.  I could do this manually but I'm sure someone has a smarter (and more repeatable) technique!  Many thanks for any suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S9FXW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S9FXW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8610" LastActivityDate="2020-05-07T22:02:17.480" Title="How can I create a bevel edge with smoothly changing angle?" Tags="|router|bevels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10573" CreationDate="2020-05-06T14:39:57.950" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are drill guides and drill blocks available for making repeatable holes in stock. The usual suspects like Wolfcraft and Milescraft offer these, for example. Whether you use a block-style guide (either DIY or store-bought) or a fancy guide depends a lot on what tool you will be using. For example, a block is not going to help you if you are using a forstner bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(So, if you want to &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; make consistent 90-degree holes, read on. But, for your purpose of a climbing wall you don't really have to worry all that much. As long as you are close, the hardware used to attach holds will make up for it -- they are sloppy for a reason. No one at a climbing gym is using a jig. They are just eyeballing it and  getting close enough. Even single-digit degrees won't matter at the end of the day. At most, you'd want a home-made block so you mostly get it right.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example that I have some experience with:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xWW6s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xWW6s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Image from amazon.ca product page&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an earlier model of this which I purchased to make a number of repeatable 90 degree holes in sheet stock with a 1-inch forstner bit. It works.... ok. The bearings in the chuck are not great, and the return action is a bit finicky. It is repeatable, and the holes are closer to 90 degree than what I could do by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Wolfcraft model has two springs, which I think would solve some of the finicky problems with the Milescraft one. But I don't really know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also many DIY drill guides out there, ranging from &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/m4PLNyQJ4Yk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;simple tall blocks&lt;/a&gt; or fit-to-your-drill angles, all the way to &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodgears.ca/reader/richard/drill_guide.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;clever versions of the store-bought ones&lt;/a&gt;. Some of the DIY options really depend on your drill having adjacent sides that form a 90-degree angle, though, which is why the fancy plunge jigs exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These links are sure to be dead in an internet minute, but search terms like &quot;DIY drill guide block&quot; will get you a lot of hits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use a 2-axis bubble level and attach it to the back of your drill, which is often close enough for government work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-05-19T21:54:27.430" LastActivityDate="2020-05-19T21:54:27.430" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10576" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-07T06:26:20.050" Score="1" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am about to re-sand my oak kitchen counters. There is quite a lot of it, including the upstand and splash back. Looks like the previous owners have used various oils over the past, including one had a tint in it. Personally, I love the look of just sanded Oak - the light, natural, matte look. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want it &quot;lightened&quot; and i don't want it &quot;darkened&quot; - I want it the colour of freshly sanded Oak. Has to be food safe. Any ideas? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8613" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-05-07T15:12:19.790" LastActivityDate="2020-05-08T14:06:20.583" Title="Best finish to keep an oak kitchen counter top looking matte and natural" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10576" CreationDate="2020-05-07T15:05:44.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As usual, this is a matter of trade-offs. What sort of maintenance is best for you? Do you mind if stains and blemishes are harder to repair?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want closest to &quot;natural&quot; wood, then a poly finish won't darken the wood as much as any oil finish. This is just the nature of oil finishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But poly creates an actual finish; a protective covering over the surface. This has a downside in that you probably won't be able to match repairs. Generally, is is suggested to remove all the poly and reapply &lt;em&gt;if&lt;/em&gt; you want a nice even look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With oil finishes you not only can reapply to freshen up blemishes, you have to reapply as part of regular maintenance. Oil will almost always feather nicely into existing oil. This is just not the case with poly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose you could take a hybrid approach, and use poly on the less wearing surfaces that you want a good water seal on (like backsplashes) and oil on the hard-working surfaces that you expect to stain and scuff over time. They will look different, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, as pointed out in the comments you have another less-obvious path you can take: just remove the existing finish you don't like, sand/scrape bare and then &lt;em&gt;just leave it alone&lt;/em&gt;. It'll age beautifully, and give you the aesthetic you want of looking 100% &quot;natural&quot; and will obviously be &quot;food-safe&quot;. As it wears and stains you scrape it flat to get a new surface. This is how industrial kitchens treat their wood surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most any interior finish is &quot;food safe&quot; once cured. Just read the label -- it'll tell you if it isn't. &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/search?q=food&quot;&gt;There is discussion of finishes suitable for use around food in previous Q&amp;amp;A&lt;/a&gt;. I encourage you to search some of those for further detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-05-08T14:06:20.583" LastActivityDate="2020-05-08T14:06:20.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10569" CreationDate="2020-05-07T16:45:49.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that you have the newer model of this saw - Rikon model 10-3061.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you have read the directions and are following the instructions.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For tracking you have just one knob to turn so you have to play with it until the blade tracks correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For tension you put the quick release lever to &quot;On&quot; and then there is just one knob to turn. As you said 1/4 inch deflection is the goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If nothing works you need to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;take it back to the store&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;seek help from a dealer for the tool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;have a friend who is familiar with bandsaws take a look at it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference here is the page:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Page &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rikontools.com/wp-content/uploads/10-3061M2_EN.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;14 of the manual&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9jN46.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9jN46.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6222" LastActivityDate="2020-05-07T16:45:49.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10574" CreationDate="2020-05-07T22:02:17.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm willing to bet that this piece was done with a computer and a CNC machine of some kind. You need to change the tool (or work piece) cutter angle to get this effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There might be a Maker Space in your area that you can use for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, unless you can mount a router in a multi-axis articulated arm and control it smoothly through a 3D space, a dedicated CNC machine and some simple coding is the way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also grow old doing this with a spindle sander and a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; steady hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2020-05-07T22:02:17.480" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10580" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-07T22:10:02.667" Score="0" ViewCount="2371" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just saw a YouTube video where a guy was easily bending cedar strips for his canoe with a heat gun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temperature of a heat gun is very hot (over 1000 degrees) but how hot does the wood itself have to be before it can be bent so easily? The motivation for my question is that suppose you don't have a heat gun but you have an oven, you would need to know what oven temp is going to be enough to plasticize the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you need to bring the wood to the melting point of lignin, softening point, etc.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8617" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-05-08T06:02:21.510" LastActivityDate="2020-05-08T14:21:08.203" Title="Bending wood using heat alone, what temp does it need to get to?" Tags="|bending|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10580" CreationDate="2020-05-07T22:17:25.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The heat gun works because it is localized. You would not bake the wood in a household oven as one piece, but rather apply heat to the places you want to relax so you can form it. Guitar makers use the same techique when bending sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For bending larger pieces, you would build or buy a specialized steam oven sized appropriately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, there are classic techniques for wood-bending and they all involve heat &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; moisture. &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/search?q=bending&quot;&gt;There are previous Q&amp;amp;A that might give you more ideas&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the &lt;em&gt;exact&lt;/em&gt; temperature, I'm sure you can find a reference somewhere, but no one doing this as a hobby cares. You heat it until it feels right, and then apply it to the form. Rinse and repeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certainly you want to stay far away from the flash point of wood, which is ~300C. The idea is to use a pretty hot heat source to quickly get the wood up to some temperature below that so you can work it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-05-08T14:21:08.203" LastActivityDate="2020-05-08T14:21:08.203" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10582" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10583" CreationDate="2020-05-08T17:02:06.267" Score="7" ViewCount="6572" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a new Dewalt DWE7491RS table saw (pictured below).  And on two separate occasions the arbor nut has come loose on me. Once with a dado stack that threw blades across the room! (Very SCARY!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second time it was when I was taking a standard cross-cut blade off and noticed the tension on the nut was very loose, although the blade hadn't slipped out of place yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm almost certain that I am tightening the nut down pretty well; probably more than I should. And I do put the washer on the nut between the blade and the nut. This is also with all stock parts that are less than a month old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what might be causing this to happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gIESl.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gIESl.png&quot; alt=&quot;Table Saw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-05-08T19:07:19.617" LastActivityDate="2021-06-28T22:15:15.287" Title="Arbor nut keeps working itself loose on my table saw. What am I doing wong?" Tags="|table-saw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10582" CreationDate="2020-05-08T17:20:08.017" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once the arbour nut is tight, the rotation of the spindle will tend to tighten it. So you just have to make sure it is torqued down appropriately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, it is the rotation &lt;em&gt;into&lt;/em&gt; the material that tends to tighten the arbor nut. Once powered down and free-spinning the mass of the blade is now free to loosen the arbor nut, which is why dado sets and saws with brakes &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; tend to loosen the arbor. The model described here doesn't seem to have a brake, but I suppose a valid check is to make sure the blade or blade stack isn't exceeding their recommendations. (Though, they usually discuss blade size in terms of the the riving knife installed rather than mass.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how most saws like to be treated:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure there is no oil or grease on the nut or the arbour. Make sure the entire spindle and all the spacers and washers are free of sawdust and other debris. If this is a new saw, I'd carefully degrease the entire spindle and blade hardware because it might still be covered in a factory anti-rust coating.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stack up your spacers or blades correctly; there is usually an identical cupped washer on &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt; sides of the blade, for example. What we don't want is mismatched torque on either side of the blade or blade stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thread the nut on finger-tight, making sure all the slack is taken up as much as possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Either lock the spindle or use two wrenches to tighten the arbour a 1/8 to 1/4 turn. The idea is to snug things down fully without stretching the threads too much -- we want to be within the natural elasticity of the spindle metal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That should be it. If it is working loose after torquing it down then there is a problem with the arbour nut, washers or spindle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the blade is torqued down evenly. Spacers or washers &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; be the same mass and dimensions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;See if the spindle (or arbour nut) threads are obviously crossed or stripped out. Maybe they are stripped toward the end and you aren't getting a proper torque.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have over-torqued the arbour nut in the past, you may have stretched the threads on the spindle. There are gauges to check for this, but the idea is that the threads should be the same distance across the spindle. Look closely at the place where the nut tightens for really shiny spots or obvious metal movement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check for excessive run-out or vibration. Make sure the bearings aren't failing. There are ways to check for run-out without an indicator which are easy to find on-line. Vibration should be obvious while the saw is running at speed under no load. The &lt;strong&gt;unpowered&lt;/strong&gt; spindle should turn easily with your fingers with no &amp;quot;grumble&amp;quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-06-28T22:15:15.287" LastActivityDate="2021-06-28T22:15:15.287" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10584" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10585" CreationDate="2020-05-09T10:33:28.643" Score="0" ViewCount="260" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wanting to fix my MDF cabinet together with cam dowels and connectors (I rent, so for ease of moving I want the option to flatpack. Of course I will glue up when I get somewhere permanent, don't moan at me :-P).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have bought the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/product/rimless-cam-connector-min-panel-thickness-12mm-zinc-plated-pack-50-751741&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rimless Cam Connector - Min Panel Thickness 12mm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/product/self-drive-dowel-cam-centrepin-length-34mm-black-pack-50-786691&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Self Drive Dowel - Cam Centre/Pin Length 34mm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12mm wood drill bit such as that pictured below&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZLFq0t.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZLFq0t.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been doing a test piece to connect 2 scrap pieces together and have been coming up against a bit of an issue...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My MDF is 18mm thick, the quoted length of the cam connectors is 10mm with the locking centre being quoted as 6mm, so in theory I should be able to drill in with my drill bit and have everything line up ok as shown in my diagram below...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aS3kRm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aS3kRm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However... I have been finding that the point of the drill bit is rather long and appears to be either poking through the other side of my MDF, or at least making a small bulge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do to avoid this? Would a Forstner bit be a better option for this job?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;So after a few more tests, drilling in slowly and checking the fit I was still frustrated and decided to actually measure the length of the point on the drill bit... It appears the point is greater than 4mm, so of course it is poking out of the other side! Would a Forstner bit's point be less dramatic as to help me with my issue here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5gMqSm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5gMqSm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8149" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-05-09T18:18:05.993" LastActivityDate="2020-05-09T18:18:05.993" Title="Wood bit vs Forstner bit for cam connector holes" Tags="|wood|drilling|mdf|drill-bits|fasteners|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10584" CreationDate="2020-05-09T14:07:57.643" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A forstner bit may have a shorter point, but for such a small diameter, it's not a certainty. It's likely from your description that you're using a hand drill, which makes precision holes just a bit more difficult than a drill press.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be considered heresy but I will occasionally use a milling bit in my milling machine to create a flat bottom hole in wood, retracting it frequently to clear the chips. Good results with slower speed and feed than normally used for a metal cutting tool. It's just not practical with a hand held device due to the lack of a centering point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2020-05-09T14:07:57.643" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10586" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-09T20:03:12.370" Score="0" ViewCount="669" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a medicine cabinet and I want to use a stopped, sliding dovetail joint so that the joint will be hidden.  I can cut the sliding dovetail in the side boards with a dovetail bit in a router, but what is the best way to cut the corresponding dovetail in the end grain of the joining board?  I have tried making some jigs, but they always seem to be precarious to use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q2aTy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q2aTy.png&quot; alt=&quot;drawing of sliding dovetail joint&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Please excuse the poor drawing. I'm not so good with GIMP yet.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8586" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-05-09T22:51:59.090" LastActivityDate="2020-05-11T21:51:27.863" Title="What is the best way to cut a dovetail on the end grain" Tags="|dovetail|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10587" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-09T22:46:11.950" Score="2" ViewCount="769" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to decide whether to buy a HPLV sprayer or on Airless sprayer for applying Lacquer/Polyurethane to my woodworking projects. Lately I've been doing a lot of outdoor projects with some irregular shapes like slats on a picnic table or lattice work, and am getting tired of all the brushwork these projects require and drips I get when trying to force a brush between slats or into a sharp corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is whether an HPLV sprayer or an Airless sprayer is more suited to a job that requires getting wood stain or lacquer into all the nooks and crannies &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, in general is one better than the other for woodworking projects?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example I just built this project which has 1/4&quot; gaps between each of the slats on the two surfaces which were a pain to get stain into without it dripping everywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lkaN8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lkaN8.png&quot; alt=&quot;Potting Bench&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2022-03-30T13:45:08.877" LastActivityDate="2022-04-13T21:54:48.417" Title="Is a HPLV or Airless Paint Sprayer better for projects with a lot of nooks/crannies?" Tags="|finishing|tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10586" CreationDate="2020-05-10T02:15:38.270" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I figured out a way to do it but it's still precarious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I built a tall fence for my router table and then hand-held the piece against the fence and moved it across the dovetail bit.  I got reasonably good dovetails on the ends of the pieces where I need them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better solution might have been to build a sled and mount it on my miter gauge.  Then I could clamp the wood to the sled and guide it past the bit with the miter gauge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8586" LastActivityDate="2020-05-10T02:15:38.270" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10590" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-10T09:11:53.177" Score="4" ViewCount="3181" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed something unexpected while testing PVA glues for strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Glues tested&lt;/strong&gt;: Titebond Original, Titebond III Ultimate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wood species&lt;/strong&gt;: Beech and Pine (and other unknown hardwood species).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Transverse to transverse grain joinery. All mating surfaces sandpapered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Control&lt;/strong&gt;: Glue applied evenly to both surfaces with brush then clamped straight away for 24h.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Test 1&lt;/strong&gt;: Glue applied evenly to one surface with brush, then left to dry 1 hour. Then glue applied evenly to both surfaces before being clamped 24h.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Test 2&lt;/strong&gt;: Glue applied to one surface with brush, excess glue scraped off with sandpaper (leaving surface moist), left to dry 1 hour. Glue applied evenly to both surfaces then clamped 24h.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had expected the control joint to be stronger than test 2, and test 2 to be stronger than test 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In reality, the joints would seem to be equally resistant to sheer stress and longitudinal traction. All joints had barely visible glue lines, the difference between test 1 and the others is in the range of microns suggesting most of the dried glue had been absorbed into the wood during clamping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The results seem to be reproducible, meaning this could have implications for correcting errors in assembly, or repairs and maintenance of cured glue joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think this is unusual, given what we know about how PVA glues work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8622" OwnerDisplayName="Market12" LastEditorUserId="8622" LastEditDate="2021-12-04T13:29:12.120" LastActivityDate="2022-11-13T14:26:30.287" Title="'Wood glue doesn't stick to wood glue'. Could this conventional wisdom be wrong?" Tags="|technique|glue|adhesives|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="23" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="361" CreationDate="2020-05-10T18:26:29.743" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I stained my wood before putting my table top to my coffee table......i am now starting over. I allowed th glue to dry for 2 days when I went to pit the table top on the legs in several spots the table top started pulling apart. I would never again first I can always sand the spot where I may jabe gotten glue then stain it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8626" LastActivityDate="2020-05-10T18:26:29.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10590" CreationDate="2020-05-10T19:50:46.433" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the absence of helpful comments, I've done some research on PVA glue chemistry to see what this could be. The general rule of thumb is that wood glue does not stick to cured wood glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood glue binding undergoes two phases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A short-term drying phase (&amp;lt; 2 hr), during which the material is simply dehydrated.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A curing phase (24 h+), in which electrostatic and covalent cross-links are formed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BuKr0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BuKr0.png&quot; alt=&quot;Source: Ülker O (2016). Wood Adhesives and Bonding Theory. DOI: 10.5772/65759&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm no expert on PVA glues, but what I'm observing could be as simple as partially dried surface glue being mobilized again through re-wetting before cross-linking occurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would then allow it to be absorbed into wood or cross-link with glue on the adjacent surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8622" LastEditorUserId="8622" LastEditDate="2020-05-11T00:31:23.797" LastActivityDate="2020-05-11T00:31:23.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10593" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-10T21:43:30.680" Score="0" ViewCount="124" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of questions involving rust removal by electrolysis.  I have done it before and want to do it again.  The problem is I don't have any washing soda.  What other chemicals can I use?  I do have baking soda, Oxi Clean, borax, sodium hydroxide, and salt.  Will any produce byproducts that I should be concerned about?  (I know sodium hydroxide is caustic.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8628" LastActivityDate="2020-07-11T21:12:43.557" Title="Rust removal with electrolysis" Tags="|rust|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10587" CreationDate="2020-05-11T21:20:47.470" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;(I'm going to assume that what you're asking about is &quot;HVLP&quot; (High Volume, Low Pressure) vs airless sprayers.  &quot;HPLV&quot; would be another way to describe what are normally called &quot;traditional&quot; spray guns.  Traditional spray guns used full shop pressure, typically 90psi, at the air cap.  This meant there is a very fast air stream that results in a lot of material &quot;bouncing&quot; off of the surface and staying in the air.  Due to pollution concerns around high-VOC finishes this type of gun was phased out decades ago.  HVLP guns choke down the airflow before it gets to the air cap, resulting in a much softer air stream and better material transfer efficiency.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For woodworking I would generally recommend an HVLP system over an airless system.  HVLP delivers a more even application for the thinner finishes used in woodworking.  Airless is better for thicker coatings like latex paint that would be used on walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An airless sprayer is also much harder to clean out.  Airless systems pressurize the material at a stationary base unit and then transfer it to the gun through a long hose.  This means that you're cleaning material out of the pumping assembly and all the material left in the hose will be lost at the end of the job (or even in between coats if your deglossing agent settles out before the next coat is applied.)  To clean out an HVLP gun you just have to rinse out the cup and a few small internal parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where airless really shines is putting out a huge volume of material.  If you're finishing something really large, like a deck or pergola or something then I would consider an airless system.  They're designed for things like exterior house painting, where you really want to get heavy materials out very quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2020-05-12T15:47:36.303" LastActivityDate="2020-05-12T15:47:36.303" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10586" CreationDate="2020-05-11T21:51:27.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would just cut this with a handheld router and an edge guide.  Stand the board on end and clamp it to your workbench so that the edge is flush with the bench top or clamp a thicker board to it so that your router doesn't tip back and forth.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as your edge guide has a microadjust it should be easy enough to dial in the fit.  You might want to cut all the bottom sides first so that they're flush and then dial in the thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would caution you, though, that this looks like a pretty weak joint.  At the &quot;point&quot; of the dado in the sides you're going to have very little material and the grain will be oriented so it will be easy to break off the edge of the board...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2020-05-11T21:51:27.863" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10573" CreationDate="2020-05-11T23:46:48.370" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would spend the time making a pattern drill guide out of 3/4&quot; plywood.  Size of guide would be 24 in wide, and 18&quot;-24&quot; high.  Start by drilling the holes 5 cm from the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next set of holes are 10 cm on center.  This allows you to align the pattern guide to the edge where the drilling ended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use one of the drill attachment described in the earlier answers to ensure the holes in the guide are all vertical.&#xA;By using the 3/4 &quot; guide, you do not need the vertical drilling attachment any more. The pre-drill hole will hold the spade or auger bit vertical when you are drilling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To use the drill guide, start by clamping it to the corner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mark outline of template on plywood sheet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill through each of the holes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move pattern guide to next position, aligning the mark previous made&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clamp pattern guide in new position&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Continue drilling holes - Repeat process&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per your own suggestion you could stack all three sheets and do three sheets at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vQ1M8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vQ1M8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8556" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-05-19T22:01:10.650" LastActivityDate="2020-05-19T22:01:10.650" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10597" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-12T16:31:28.607" Score="0" ViewCount="1145" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to buy the Skilsaw SPT99-12 table saw but I noticed on the sale listing it says &quot;Depth Control = No&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean I can't adjust the blade up and down? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the blade stay in place during a cut if it is adjustable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8635" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-05-12T18:27:59.170" LastActivityDate="2020-05-12T18:27:59.170" Title="What does &quot;Depth Control = No&quot; on a table saw mean?" Tags="|table-saw|power-tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10597" CreationDate="2020-05-12T17:28:07.757" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went to the skill saw &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.skilsaw.com/wormdrive-table-saw-spt99-12/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;website page for that saw&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can not find the phrase  &amp;quot;Depth Control = No&amp;quot; in the specs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It displays a photo that clearly show the blade adjustment crank handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the blade stay in place during a cut if it is adjustable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, once you set the blade height it will not change or move up and down while you make your cut. It will only move up or down if and when you turn the adjustment crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure why the page you were looking at had that &amp;quot;no&amp;quot; reference for depth of cut but this is a normal table saw with an adjustable depth of cut feature. &lt;strong&gt;Perhaps it means no depth of cut gauge or indicator ?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is nice portable saw. Send one to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2917" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2020-05-12T17:46:19.940" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10599" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10600" CreationDate="2020-05-12T19:52:20.180" Score="2" ViewCount="4324" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am about to create a number of raised planter-boxes where i can't separate the wood and soil with plastic. So, in order to create something that will last for as long as possible I have been trying to collect information about which wood species will last the longest with direct soil contact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found a fair amount information about Robinie, oak and some hardwoods like Cumaru, Jatoba and Ipe as wood species which will last a long while with direct soil contact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I expect that someone must have made some structures comparisons and tests, that I just have been unable to find. Can someone either tell me which species of wood will last the longest in direct soil contact. Or, even better, provide some structured study that I can take a look at?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8636" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-05-12T20:08:41.843" LastActivityDate="2021-05-11T03:39:41.827" Title="Best wood species for direct soil contact?" Tags="|outdoor|wood-species|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10599" CreationDate="2020-05-12T21:12:41.917" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is the best wood species for direct soil contact?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Forrest Products Laboratory has a lot of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/search/search_action.php?phrasesAndKeywords=wood%20species%20ground%20contact&amp;amp;searchmode=all&amp;amp;sortgroup=significance&amp;amp;pubyearstart=1914&amp;amp;pubyearend=2020&amp;amp;content_type=&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;information on wood durability&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a chart from one of their reports titled &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/pdf2018/fpl_2018_kirker001.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Above and in-Ground Performance of Naturally Durable Woods in Wisconsin&quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xg9eO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xg9eO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on this data Eastern Red Cedar is a winner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By way of comparison to treated lumber here is a chart from a report titled &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/pdf2013/fpl_2013_lebow001.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Long-Term Durability of PRessure-Treated Wood in a Severe Test Site&lt;/a&gt;&quot;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OJhYw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OJhYw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The AWPA is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://awpa.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;American Wood Protection Association&lt;/a&gt;. They have arrived at a set of standards for treated wood for specific situations. This standard is used by many lumber providers.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://awpa.com/images/standards/ResidentialInfographic2016.PDF&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;graphic illustrating the applications and the rankings&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mqbvw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mqbvw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UC4B rating would be the winner for treated lumber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6222" LastActivityDate="2020-05-12T21:12:41.917" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10121" CreationDate="2020-05-13T01:28:34.663" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would apply a gentle paint stripper and take stain off with a putty knife. Then remove excess stain with steel wool (gentle grade not to scratch wood). Reapply stripper if needed.&#xA;Wipe table down to remove all stripper after stain is removed.&#xA;Leave bare wood to dry for 24 hours.&#xA;Wipe table with mineral spirits to remove all residue. Allow one hour to dry.&#xA;Seal your wood as it may be too dry or porous and that is why the stain clings in some places and not others. Sand table with 400 grade, wipe clean.&#xA;Reapply stain in long sweeps along grain of wood. Back and forth moving the stain evenly over the wood. Allow stain to dry overnight, then restrain if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8637" LastActivityDate="2020-05-13T01:28:34.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10603" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-13T12:37:50.133" Score="1" ViewCount="963" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to plan this build of a small cabinet with a single door at the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mTbEN.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mTbEN.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cabinet door overlaying the carcass&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see the door, when closed, should only partially cover the carcass. Carcass is 3/4&amp;quot; and I would like to get roughly half of it covered (9 or 10mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am reading about half-overlay hinges but it seems that they have a specific application (namely side-to-side cabinets with single panel). Also, when looking online I see graphs with a multitude of letters and measures which base the overlay on the distance you drill the hinge hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rWsCN.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rWsCN.png&quot; alt=&quot;Blum hinges&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the graph on the left I guess that if I want a 9.5mm overlay, I need to bore the hole at 3mm from the edge (i.e., 3mm + 17.5mm to the center) and I need to get a 4.5mm high cruciform plate. What are &lt;strong&gt;P&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;S&lt;/strong&gt; in that picture? Can I use the half overlay to get a similar overlay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other diagrams I find online are even more confusing (someone use &lt;strong&gt;H&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;D&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;K&lt;/strong&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7964" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-04-13T12:40:12.927" LastActivityDate="2021-05-13T16:03:20.303" Title="Understanding how to fit euro style half overlay hinges" Tags="|cabinetry|door|hinges|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10604" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-14T03:25:57.170" Score="2" ViewCount="806" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm somewhat of a beginner woodworker and I'm looking at building a small caddy of sorts for my bathroom counter to hold my razor, razor blades, shaving brush, toothbrush, etc. because my bathroom isn't laid out conveniently enough to store those things in an easy-to-reach manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, this thing will be subject to steam from the shower daily and then of course puddles of water from the sink. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to guess spar varnish is the way to go, but I'm really not too sure. I'm thinking about possibly building this out of some sort of veneer. In any case, the wood has to be around 1/4&quot; thick or so or some things won't fit properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8641" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-05-14T12:31:31.417" LastActivityDate="2020-05-14T16:56:23.187" Title="Best waterproofing method for bathroom project?" Tags="|polyurethane|varnish|water-protection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10604" CreationDate="2020-05-14T15:22:56.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;1/4in dimensioned pieces are going to be a challenge no matter what finish you use, or at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As suggested in the comments, you are going to have to choose your wood carefully at that dimension to reduce warping over time. I'd go further and say this is an opportunity not only to look for dimensionally better cuts, but also varieties known for stability under these circumstances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider what wood is used in saunas, or outdoor patio furniture. Wood like cedar and acacia hold up reasonably well with no finish, and are somewhat traditional for these applications. (Though I'm not sure how cedar would hold up at such small dimensions.) Check your local builders to see what they would use for saunas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To address your main question on finishes: almost any reasonable poly or varnish type finish will do. Even so-called &quot;indoor&quot; finish. In most cases, the water resistance is similar, with outdoor finishes being made with more UV inhibitors. You'll want to follow the instructions for multiple light coats. And, whatever you finish it with, if it gets wet a lot you will probably have to refinish it semi-regularly as the finish wears. (This is the big win for not finishing stuff like this: less maintenance.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So-called spar finishes are usually a urethane type with various oils added, and these also tend to be more pliable than polyurethane finishes. So they might work better with something expected to get dings and knocks as it ages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might look at &quot;sealers&quot; as well, which aren't as waterproof, but allow for a nice even finish and allow the wood to breathe somewhat. These also need to be reapplied occasionally, though reapplication is usually easier than with polyurethane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also advise you to finish the pieces completely &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; assembly, because moisture likes voids and cracks, and water ingress at a joint on otherwise finished wood will have a tough time drying out, weakening the joint and discolouring the finish around the joint. It is likely you will be using a modern glue for assembly, so care will have to be taken to remove the finish from the gluing surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 1/4in your choice of fasteners and joinery will be important, as well. For fun, you could consider not using metal fasteners at all. But if you do want metal fasteners I'd advise stainless-steel types. Even those coated types for roofing and siding will rust and stain eventually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd advise you to look and see what those &quot;claw-foot&quot; bathtub wood caddies are built from, and how they are built, as this is a similar application to yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-05-14T16:56:23.187" LastActivityDate="2020-05-14T16:56:23.187" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10607" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-15T20:48:27.773" Score="0" ViewCount="133" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a few big pieces of butcher block that the contractors left after remodeling our kitchen a few years ago. My 9-year-old daughter and I want to make a bench out of it. We looked on youtube for some advice; the problem is, any instructions about making something out of butcher block on youtube seem to assume that you want to make the butcher block out of 2x4s or something. I'm sure no respectable home hobbyist would buy butcher block to make a bench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I'm comfortable using wood screws or nails but have never managed enough patience and precision to make anything successfully with glue. But this wood seems too thick, 2.5&quot; or so, for wood screws. Even if I drill pilot holes, I don't have wood screws long enough. And I'm guessing nails would just be a bad idea all around. Oh, and we do have a circular saw and sawhorses. And a jigsaw. And a sabre saw that I have no idea why I bought ten years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dimension of the butcher block pieces are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 1/2&quot; x 25 1/4&quot; x 37&quot; (two pieces), and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 1/2&quot; x 25 1/2&quot; x 39&quot; (one piece)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/waysj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/waysj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bench we had in mind would be something like &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;                39&quot; long&#xA;=================================== 15&quot; deep&#xA;||====            ?&quot; pieces  ====||&#xA;||                at the joints  ||&#xA;||                for strength   || 25&quot; tall&#xA;||                               ||&#xA;||                               ||&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, any of the following would be helpful:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;explicit instructions that someone as ill-equipped as myself could follow;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;search terms or other advice about how to find videos that would provide those instructions instead&#xA;(with the added benefit of giving my daughter and me an excuse to watch TV for a while before &#xA;launching into this task); or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;warnings about how I'm probably about to maim my daughter or myself, or at least destroy some&#xA;perfectly good butcher block scraps that have been sitting in the garage for years.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8652" LastEditorUserId="8652" LastEditDate="2020-05-18T21:31:31.657" LastActivityDate="2020-05-18T21:31:31.657" Title="how to make a simple bench out of butcher block leftover from our kitchen remodel, or how to find instructions" Tags="|butcher-block|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10608" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-16T01:41:28.783" Score="1" ViewCount="355" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently replaced the tires on my Delta 9&quot; bandsaw and I decided to put a new blade on. The saw has only seen light use and the tires just became brittle and broke... I guess from the temps in my shed. Anyway, now the blade keeps coming off even when hand turning and I've adjusted the tension from light to heavy. No matter what it keeps coming off. Didnt have any problems before i changed those tires &#xA;They are set on the wheel right from looking at the alignment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please, in simplistic terms, help me out with what to do to make that stop happening. Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8653" LastActivityDate="2020-05-20T17:23:27.347" Title="Bandsaw blade coming off" Tags="|power-tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10608" CreationDate="2020-05-16T07:42:35.560" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a series of adjustment points on a bandsaw. As you've noted, blade tension is one of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a tracking adjustment which tilts the upper non-driven wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manual states to remove power from the saw by unplugging it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disengage the guides above and below the table so they do not make contact with the blade. If necessary, remove the blade cover from the bed, also to prevent contact while adjusting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adjust the blade tension according to the manual. It's important to note that the tension is lower for smaller blades, higher for larger ones. A few videos I've seen support the concept that too much tension is worse than too little, so err on the low side if you are uncertain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The small triangular knob on the right side of the enclosure at the top wheel is the tracking adjustment. Adjust by eye the top wheel to near vertical at first, to provide some assurance that the blade will remain in place during adjustment. A long straight edge placed across the diameter of the wheel will help in this eye-ball adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turn the top wheel by hand and adjust the tracking with the knob. Note that one direction on the knob will move the blade in one direction, relative to the crown of the wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have the tracking properly adjusted, re-position the upper and lower guides as noted in the manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have the manual, consider a search for &quot;delta 9 band saw manual&quot; as there are multiple resources for your saw. Additionally, searching for tutorial videos is also useful for tuning a band saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2020-05-16T07:42:35.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10610" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10611" CreationDate="2020-05-17T21:54:03.183" Score="0" ViewCount="1035" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to build &lt;a href=&quot;https://couchbed.com/collections/couches/products/adjustable-platform&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a platform bed&lt;/a&gt; using 2x4 lumber from Home Depot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if I need to treat the surface somehow if I want to put the mattress on top of the platform. Will a 2x4 surface be smooth enough to put the mattress on top? Or do I need to sand it down or put some other kind of finish? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8656" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-05-18T17:42:54.427" LastActivityDate="2020-05-18T17:42:54.427" Title="Do I need to treat or finish lumber if I want to use it for a bed" Tags="|furniture|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10610" CreationDate="2020-05-17T22:50:16.767" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wood used for slats and other surfaces that touch your bedding should be smooth enough not to catch fabric or raise slivers. It does not have to be finished. If you do finish it you &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; make sure it is fully cured, and not oil-based, before you use it. (Don't bother finishing it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A decent planed or scraped surface and rounded or chamfered edges is fine. This is not a time for hours of hand-sanding at the finest grit. Just smooth enough so that you feel safe running your hand across it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-05-18T16:13:04.187" LastActivityDate="2020-05-18T16:13:04.187" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10612" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10615" CreationDate="2020-05-18T05:01:07.067" Score="2" ViewCount="2202" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a project where I need to break down some sheet goods and I want to use my table saw to get the best and most accurate cuts parallel to the factory edge. The problem is that my workpiece is wider than the distance between the fence and the blade. I only have a job site saw at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the best way to handle this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I'm a little worried about safely doing this since I don't have an outfeed table and the sheet goods are big and unwieldy. I'm a beginner so I'm just looking to get some tips on how to manage this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8658" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2020-06-15T05:02:14.263" LastActivityDate="2021-02-07T11:35:28.017" Title="Rip cutting plywood on my table saw" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10612" CreationDate="2020-05-18T13:37:56.823" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on dimensions, and whether you need more than 2 pieces out of a sheet, you might rough cut the sheet goods into smaller chunks with a circular saw, then put them through the tablesaw. (This obviously isn't going to work if you need a 30&quot; finished size and your saw only cuts 24&quot;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the rough cut idea works for you, then you only need to get something (outfeed stand, box, milk crate) at the right height a few feet away to help with the outfeed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your needs are a little more complicated and can't be helped by rough cutting, then you'll need to build a temporary table to drop the job site saw into. Ideally, it's a full sheet of melamine faced plywood, though particle board would work. Have the saw positioned in the right-front corner of the sheet. Depending on your lumber source, they might have sheets around that have been slightly damaged that they'll sell for a discount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a final wildly expensive idea: get a tracksaw and a long track. It'll do everything you want without moving sheets around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2020-05-18T13:37:56.823" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10610" CreationDate="2020-05-18T15:24:54.880" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only the framework is 2x4,  Slats of bed frame of this style are made with 1x3 boards.  Buy better quality 1x3 to make the slats.  The surface does not have to be treated, but should be sanded smooth enough to feel smooth.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8556" LastActivityDate="2020-05-18T15:24:54.880" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10612" CreationDate="2020-05-18T16:11:27.063" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;For sheet goods, I prefer to bring the tool to the material instead of the other way around. Assuming you have a powered hand saw of some kind with a decent shoe, I'd recommend you give this a try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a medium sized table saw for breaking down large sheet goods is a good way to find out how quickly a saw can separate meat from the unwary operator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do any amount of work with sheet goods, I'd always recommend investing in some kind of guide. Some guides are just straight-edges you can clamp to the piece. Others are the fancier ones you attach to the shoe of the saw. It is, of course, a time-honoured tradition to make your own guide out of clamps and some factory cut lumber, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used store-bought and home-made straight-edge guides in the past, and they all worked well enough for rough cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, my advice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have someone help you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Build or borrow an outfeed table. Many shops are built with portable tables that are at the same height (or adjustable height) so they can be used for this exact purpose.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assume it will bind and kick-back, and be prepared. Refresh yourself on how material behaves when some fraction of real horsepower decides it wants to transfer some rotational force in another unexpected direction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-05-19T01:29:15.197" LastActivityDate="2020-05-19T01:29:15.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10612" CreationDate="2020-05-18T16:21:36.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on your saw capacity, the size you need, and if the sides of the sheet are already perfectly parallel, you can use the rip fence on the waste side and have your off cut be the finished piece. For example, you have a 4x8 sheet of plywood and need a 36in wide piece but your rip fence only goes to 24 in. You set the fence to 12in minus the thickness of the blade (usually 1/8in or 3/32) and run the sheet through and end up with a 36in wide piece and a 11 7/8in piece. I would also definitely get someone to help maneuver the sheet and consider making a simple outfeed table/stand as large sheets can be unwieldy and unsafe, especially on a small job site saw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7884" LastActivityDate="2020-05-18T16:21:36.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10617" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10620" CreationDate="2020-05-18T17:12:23.263" Score="2" ViewCount="2314" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of the right end of the countertop that I hand sanded vertically with 150-grit sandpaper but I don't get a nice finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to sand it up to 180 grit and apply an oil finish. Should I just continue to sand it more in the same direction or am I doing it wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WyQeK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WyQeK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;right side countertop&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8662" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-05-19T16:03:37.197" LastActivityDate="2020-05-20T21:16:49.353" Title="In which direction should I sand the ends of a solid wood countertop?" Tags="|sanding|surface-preparation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10618" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10622" CreationDate="2020-05-18T18:40:57.817" Score="1" ViewCount="272" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to build a countertop for the kitchen out of glued 1 x 1 pieces of pine. I have glued the pieces together and it looks good, but after working with it for a while, I have realized that it is softer than I initially thought, so I was wondering if there is any treatment for the surface to make it stronger? It feels like if there is a heavy object falling on it, will make a &quot;beautiful&quot; dent in it. I can see videos with people filling gaps with epoxy and that epoxy looks strong, but is epoxy an alternative for this? Can it be applied to the surface only? What other solutions would you recommend for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8663" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-05-19T05:29:05.990" LastActivityDate="2020-05-19T22:14:29.417" Title="Is it possible make the surface of wood harder?" Tags="|cutting-board|epoxy|physical-protection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10619" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-19T01:05:32.027" Score="2" ViewCount="11574" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a workbench for the shed and cut a couple 45 degree angles on some left over beams to create corner braces for the legs of my workbench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering in what direction I should screw them down to get the best result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s3Tv0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s3Tv0.png&quot; alt=&quot;Image that shows the different screw directions&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Screw directions to attach the tabletop to the brace&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;from the table top straight down into the brace&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;from the brace up into the table top at a 45 degree angle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;from the brace straight up into the table top&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Screw directions to attach the leg to the brace&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;4&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;from the leg straight into the brace&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;from the brace straight into the leg&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;from the brace up into the table top at a 45 degree angle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8664" LastEditorUserId="8664" LastEditDate="2020-05-19T01:13:42.397" LastActivityDate="2020-05-19T01:13:42.397" Title="In what direction should the screws go on corner braces with two 45-degree angles?" Tags="|workbench|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10617" CreationDate="2020-05-19T05:00:09.687" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally you sand in the direction of the grain&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; for best results. But this surface is all end grain, so that doesn't apply since technically the grain direction is &lt;em&gt;outwards&lt;/em&gt; (towards the viewer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you do with end grain is instead sand until no sanding marks are visible, and/or you're happy with the surface. Beyond that the sanding direction makes little or no difference to the quality of the result. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here though there is a good reason to sand in a specific direction, and that's simply one of ease — it's far harder to consistently sand a long, narrow surface like this working up and down, you really have to sand going side to side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I plan to sand it up to 180 grit and apply an oil finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally you need to go finer than this on end grain (it's fairly commonplace to sand end grain to a higher grit than the long-grain surfaces of the same project)&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How fine to sand is always a matter of individual preference. I would go to 240 &lt;em&gt;at minimum&lt;/em&gt; myself, and sometimes you'll read of people sanding their end grain to 400 and sometimes beyond. But basically sand until &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; are happy with how it looks and feels since you're the one who has to live with it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Approximately in the direction of the grain. You can't always sand exactly parallel to the grain since it may vary across the surface of any board, and additionally some coarse-grained woods respond well to deliberately sanding at a slight angle (not an issue if sanding using random-orbit sanders).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; In addition to other reasons it also helps the end grain not turn out so dark when wet with the finish. If both long-grain and end-grain surfaces are sanded equally, to normal levels, the end grain will be very much darker once most finishes have been applied because end grain is very open and absorbs finish like a sponge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-05-20T21:16:49.353" LastActivityDate="2020-05-20T21:16:49.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10618" CreationDate="2020-05-19T22:14:29.417" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The comments have a lot of good discussion about wood choice, but to directly answer your question, yes.  You can use epoxy to make a surface harder.  However, you need to be careful about your choice of epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normal hardware store epoxy is designed for repair work, i.e. bonding two parts together.  To do this effectively it needs to be quite thick.  This will prevent it from &quot;soaking into&quot; the surface you're treating.  Instead, you should use a &quot;penetrating epoxy sealer&quot;.  This type of epoxy is much thinner and will &quot;penetrate&quot; deeper into the wood you're treating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Epoxy (along with most wood glues and finishes) is generally food safe once it has fully cured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend doing a test on a scrap to see how the epoxy will effect your finishing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2020-05-19T22:14:29.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10623" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10624" CreationDate="2020-05-20T01:38:53.410" Score="1" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying my hand at some lawn benches and chairs for my fire pit. As I'm still new at this I'm choosing western red cedar because it's cheap and easy to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I don't know how to stain it. I got Flood CWF-UV Clear natural but not sure if I should sand it first or how to prep the wood. Everywhere I look are techniques on how to apply it but not prepping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any recommendations or resources?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8585" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-05-20T02:27:48.250" LastActivityDate="2020-05-21T15:31:57.177" Title="Staining Western red cedar outdoor furniture" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10623" CreationDate="2020-05-20T02:16:23.617" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That finish is a penetrant, not a surface coating. So the surface prep is pretty much whatever you want. For siding, it might be a pretty raw finish. Or, at most, a scuff-sanding of 50-60 grit. That is, there is no real requirement that &lt;em&gt;new wood&lt;/em&gt; surfaces be prepared in specific manner for these sorts of finishes on cedar. For cedar, I've found that the real reason to prepare surafces for finish is to make it easier to apply the finish!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But for wood furniture there is an implicit contract that it doesn't fill the user with slivers, and is somewhat comfortable for their dainty bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To that end, you'll want to sand to something reasonable like 200-300 grit, and break the edges a bit. Clean the dust off and that's about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for how fine to sand: that is a matter of taste and effort. For furniture intended to be left outside to go grey, going much further than 240 grit is &lt;em&gt;probably&lt;/em&gt; overkill. I'd &lt;em&gt;personally&lt;/em&gt; find 150 a little too rough for my leaning-back-in-the-shade-with-a-beer comfort, but I suppose after 1 or 2 Canadian summers the surface will be rougher than that anyway. I suppose you could use 150 most places and then finish a little finer on the seat and back. (Though, again, that sounds like extra effort for dubious results.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-05-21T15:31:57.177" LastActivityDate="2020-05-21T15:31:57.177" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10625" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-20T02:47:15.080" Score="2" ViewCount="25819" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been watching videos on building workbenches, and there are a lot of varieties, including one video where they glued a couple of sheets of 1&quot; MDF together for the top. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this coronavirus era, I'd rather use materials on hand, which happen to include some 2 x 10 fir, and a sheet of 1&quot; MDF.  I'm a newbie, so I was thinking that I could start with the 2 x 10s as a base, perhaps rip them so they can go over a friend's jointer and be mostly flat (they are currently cupped, up to  1/8&quot;). Glue them up and get them reasonably flat, then put the MDF on top to make it sturdier and flatter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do want bench dogs and an inset face vise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts on what the pros and cons of this approach would be?  Or stumbling blocks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8669" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-05-20T21:42:40.080" LastActivityDate="2021-11-01T02:26:06.367" Title="What are the pros and cons of MDF as a workbench top?" Tags="|workbench|mdf|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10625" CreationDate="2020-05-20T15:53:10.467" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like it would work fine to me. My first bench was two sheets of 3/4 MDF laminated together and I had no major issues with it. I used it for years and made quite a few projects that I was proud of on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's really only two very minor things that I ran into. When you're drilling the dog holes the center spurs on forstner bits tend to not like MDF. I was able to drill much faster when I had small pilot holes for my forstner bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second issue was that I never felt totally confident with the overhang that the vise was attached to. If I did it again I'd probably back up that area with a batten on the underside to keep it from flexing down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2020-05-20T15:53:10.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10628" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-20T22:30:56.263" Score="0" ViewCount="1477" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a cutting board for my self-healing cutting mat. Would I be able to use just the Minwax wood conditioner and no poly or stain? My first wood project was the craft table. After finishing it I used the wood conditioner with Polystain and didn't want to damage the surface with my rotary cutter, so I made a cutting board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8676" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-05-21T09:05:13.633" LastActivityDate="2020-05-21T22:52:52.247" Title="Can you apply wood conditioner without staining?" Tags="|finishing|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10625" CreationDate="2020-05-20T22:40:06.630" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the pros and cons of MDF as a workbench top?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Relatively cheap.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is already a flat sheet ready to use as a work surface, saving much time and effort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fairly flat to dead flat right from the start, but, needs good support to stay that way — MDF, like chipboard/particleboard, can sag under its own weight if only supported near the ends.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Although the material is sort of friable, it's strong and cohesive enough for use.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uniform texture throughout, so no knots or other hard spots.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not as strong or as stiff as solid wood (even pine and other softwoods are stronger in certain ways).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Doesn't tend to take screws or nails as well as solid wood.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Possibly outgasses low levels of formaldehyde&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most MDF doesn't take being wet with water well and can swell badly. But moisture-resistant versions are available — called MR-MDF in some markets — which in addition to the moisture resistance are also generally tougher and stiffer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;May not be able to be resurfaced properly. By comparison scraping, sanding and even planing the surface of wooden benches to refresh them is commonplace, as and when needed&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a newbie, so I was thinking that I could start with the 2 x 10s as a base, perhaps rip them so they can go over a friend's jointer and be mostly flat (they are currently cupped, up to 1/8&amp;quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, reduce the wood to smaller, workable pieces as needed to process it into your workbench's understructure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you're a newbie, you'll notice that once cut down the wood will exhibit less cupping&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glue them up and get them reasonably flat, then put the MDF on top to make it sturdier and flatter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a major drawback to this plan. MDF is dimensionally stable but solid wood wants to change width in response to differences in temp and humidity through the year. The MDF will essentially stay the same size. While you can accommodate for this sort of thing in certain ways it's generally a bad idea to try to directly attach board materials to solid wood once you go past a certain width, perhaps 18-20&amp;quot; you're into an area where the side-to-side dimensional changes of the solid wood are significant enough that you need to pay attention to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What to do instead&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;However you don't need to ditch your workbench dream using this material entirely, quite the opposite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using what you have at hand you can make any number of different workbenches of various styles and configurations. At the most basic a single thickness of MDF can work as a top for now, with the plan being to beef it up later, and possibly add a sacrificial hardboard surface as well. If you have enough material you can laminate it now — a full sheet is 8'x4' and ripping this in half yields 2' pieces, and 24&amp;quot; or slightly less is a very common workbench depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are various ways you can use the fir.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;~2 inch material can be used directly and make for a very strong, stable bench. Material of this thickness has been used to make many a woodworking bench that has served its builder well, and outlasted them, as long as the rest of the construction was sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more modern take is to rip the 2x10s into narrower strips (into 2, 3 or 4, depending on how thick you want the final top to end up), then face-glue them together to make a top where the board edges become the top surface&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Formaldehyde-free versions are available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; But note that some of this work is used to re-flatten a wooden work surface after it has warped in some way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Warpage of all kinds is reduced when pieces are cut to size, e.g. a noticeable bow on an 8' board may yield two 4' lengths each with only a slight bow. In this case your cupping will be far easier to deal with, and result in less loss of thickness, if you rip the boards into two (note: not necessarily right down the centre).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt; This has numerous advantages, but it's a lot more work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2021-03-15T16:44:34.930" LastActivityDate="2021-03-15T16:44:34.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10630" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-21T13:34:36.487" Score="1" ViewCount="495" Body="&lt;p&gt;So during the coronavirus pandemic I have been spraying any package contents I receive with 80% surgical spirit if it is plastic and nonedible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today my daughter received a couple of new toys in the mail, and I sprayed them as I usually do. One was plastic, the other was wood, and I honestly didn't even think this would be a bad idea. Now I know better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fortunately I realised what was going on pretty quickly when I picked a piece up and it was suddenly very tacky. I separated out the pieces and set them out to dry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand a bit of woodworking and have done some in the past. I understand that the alcohol must have been a solvent for the toy paint. However I'd like to understand better what happened in order to avoid this happening in the future. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Particularly I'd like to understand:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What kind of paint this is that this happens to (or a family of paints, or even &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; paints)? Is this common among paints?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this method appropriate for some paints, or just a big no-no in general.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it safe to use simple soap and water on this toy instead (or the wood bits of it)? (I would be concerned about the paint being a water based paint and coming off, or the wood reacting to the water in some way).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other things I just realised:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm using 'paint' indiscriminately here to mean the layer(s) of stuff on the wood, but it could be a finish or varnish or another word I don't know.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There could have been another finish on the toy, but I don't think so because the paint colour came off on my fingers.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I'm trying to avoid the probably offtopic question of &quot;how do I disinfect a wooden toy from the coronavirus&quot; because this is a woodworking site, not a medical one but I would like to understand better what went wrong so I can  clean wooden toys properly in the future.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8677" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-05-21T14:41:47.337" LastActivityDate="2020-05-21T22:29:13.173" Title="I accidentally removed some paint from my child's toy with surgical spirits while disinfecting it, what went wrong?" Tags="|paint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10631" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-21T14:17:40.663" Score="0" ViewCount="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;This cabinet will not get a lot of use. More of a storage cabinet that will have a lamp and cable box. I just need some sort of finish. Really don’t want to change the color. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8678" LastActivityDate="2020-05-21T14:17:40.663" Title="What can I put on an unfinished cabinet that will not get a lot of use" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10630" CreationDate="2020-05-21T14:54:53.157" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alcohol is a strong solvent, and full-strength it'll damage almost any commonly found finish to some degree, even so-called water-based finishes. Left long enough it can even damage the wood underneath (though this is an extreme case.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Toys are often finished with acrylic paint, as these are usually the types allowed by the manfucturers for items intended to be gnawed on by babies. Acrylic paint is soluble in alcohol. But even &quot;latex&quot; formulations can soften with strong alcohol. Obviously, varnishes intended to be mixed with alcohol will also be damaged if sprayed with alcohol later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some enamels that, once cured, will not be affected to any noticeable degree by alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your hidden question, use soapy water to clean and disinfect items. Soapy water is very effective at destroying the fatty acids surrounding viruses, which destroys them completely. You don't need fancy disinfectants. Just get a spray bottle and some concentrated all-purpose surface cleaner from the hardware store. Mix it with water to the recommended concentration on the label. Spray, wipe clean, let dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-05-21T15:01:30.157" LastActivityDate="2020-05-21T15:01:30.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10630" CreationDate="2020-05-21T22:29:13.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What kind of paint this is that this happens to (or a family of paints, or even all paints)? Is this common among paints? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it's not the only possibility this would be common to the great majority of waterbased paints&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No other common paint formulations (in the West at least) would be readily soluble in an alcohol.... the other coloured coatings that might be used on something like this include all oil-based paints (which includes all true enamels), or a solvent/resin formulation as with coloured lacquers of various types, which aren't really affected by alcohol. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you used an 80% spirit the remaining 20% is primarily water, so there is a small chance the paint is water-soluble but I think this unlikely. A quick test with plain water will show whether it is or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that as this is surgical spirit, and not just &quot;80% isopropyl alcohol&quot; for example, there are likely to be other ingredients. In the UK the primary one may be methyl salicylate, but it's present at such a low level that I think it's unlikely to have any significant solvent effect even if it were a solvent for dried paint&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it safe to use simple soap and water on this toy instead (or the wood bits of it)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Safe, very likely yes. Effective, not so much. Soap doesn't directly kill microbes, it aids in the removal of contaminants from the skin because of its detergent action, with the mechanical rubbing/scrubbing having the main effect. So to be effective at truly decontaminating a surface like this cleaning with soapy water would need to be prolonged and involve brushing/scrubbing, which obviously isn't viable and would soon lead to the paint being damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(I would be concerned about the paint being a water based paint and coming off&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Waterbased paints are almost all insoluble in their original solvent/carrier, if they weren't they'd be at risk of just being dissolved by sweaty skin for example. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Waterbased paints (and varnishes incidentally) are nearly invariably based on an acrylic of some kind..... including so-called latex paint in the US, which doesn't have a latex base as the name might suggest. Almost all wall paints and many gloss trim paints and 'enamels' that feature water cleanup, are an acrylic of some kind with or without some additional modifiers to increase wear resistance, waterproofing and other characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;or the wood reacting to the water in some way).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite being painted the wood &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; still react to water to a degree because the majority of waterbased paints are porous. Hence why waterbased exterior paints may be referred to as &quot;breathable&quot;, since they allow water vapour to pass through so that the wood underneath can't get waterlogged as can happen with e.g. the alkyd paints that preceded them for this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brief exposure to water shouldn't have a harmful effect on the wood however, but prolonged exposure can so is best avoided.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Off-topic but anyway&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As a closing comment, common household bleach in solution with water is more effective, and lots cheaper, as an all-round surface disinfectant than alcohols. And note there's a marked difference in effectiveness of ethyl alcohol (ethanol) versus isopropyl alcohol or methanol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NCBI page, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK214356/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Use of disinfectants: alcohol and bleach&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;CDC source, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cdc.gov/infectioncontrol/guidelines/disinfection/disinfection-methods/chemical.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chemical Disinfectants&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; What we call waterbased paints are emulsions (more accurately suspensions) in water of microscopic particles of something that isn't actually water soluble. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Even a very much stronger solvent than any alcohol is &lt;em&gt;far&lt;/em&gt; less effective when heavily diluted with water. Acetone for example when diluted with water, as in some nail-polish removers, has a noticeably reduced solvent action compared to pure acetone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-05-21T22:29:13.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10628" CreationDate="2020-05-21T22:52:52.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can apply it to your cutting board if you want to — what is sold variously as &quot;wood conditioner&quot;, &quot;pre-stain&quot; and other names is merely a very dilute finish and as such can be used anywhere you feel something like that would be appropriate. So the real question then becomes why you want to, i.e. what purpose is it intended to have? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it is such a dilute version of the original finish it serves little, if any, benefit beyond its original purpose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And on a technical level you can leave the wood bare if you like, it'll work just fine and actually many 'utility surfaces' are best left bare. In woodworking workshops for example shooting boards, chopping hooks and other bench utilities, as well as many jigs, are regularly left as bare wood, as this gives greater grip on the wood being worked on them. And additionally a very light dampening of the surface can &lt;em&gt;hugely&lt;/em&gt; increase the grip on the workpiece, if ever needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfinished wood does get grubby more easily (helping to prevent this is one of the primarily reasons we finish) but removing this sort of grubbiness is not terribly difficult if you ever find it unsightly, again bearing in mind it's a utility item so it doesn't &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; to be spotless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-05-21T22:52:52.247" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10635" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-23T00:07:24.453" Score="1" ViewCount="4472" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been having a problem with my sanding belts breaking within a couple of minutes of use.  Even the new ones I bought at the store were breaking soon after I started using them.  I went through four belts in about five minutes while sanding the planer marks out of my cabinet door today.  I was not applying any pressure on the belt other than the weight of the hand-held sander and I wasn't hitting any edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read this &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/6017/belt-sanding-belt-joints&quot;&gt;Belt sanding belt joints&lt;/a&gt; post to see why my sander belts are breaking so quickly and concluded that it is because the belts are old, even though they have not yet been used.    The sander is an old (40+years) Craftsman, hand-held, 3&quot; belt sander.  My neighbor suggested that the belt tension may be too tight.  I'll have to look to see if there is an adjustment for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to tell at the store whether the belts are old and have been on the shelf a long time, and is there a trick I can use to keep them from breaking so soon?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8586" LastEditorUserId="8586" LastEditDate="2020-05-23T01:48:13.560" LastActivityDate="2021-11-30T02:30:38.840" Title="How to avoid sanding belt breakage" Tags="|sanding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10636" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10639" CreationDate="2020-05-23T06:55:13.963" Score="2" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just purchased a router inlay kit and i'm going to be starting a project where I want to cut out a section of a tabletop all the way through, and then create an insert for it. But, I want to create a lip on the underside of the insert that's about 1/4 inch wider so that I can insert and remove it whenever I want and the lip will guide it into place and keep it flush with the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I need to create a template to accomplish this, but I'm not 100 percent sure on how to go about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ygn2D.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ygn2D.png&quot; alt=&quot;Underside of table top&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZJd4o.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZJd4o.png&quot; alt=&quot;Insert for table top&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8658" LastEditorUserId="8658" LastEditDate="2020-05-23T19:45:51.133" LastActivityDate="2020-05-24T04:33:56.977" Title="Multi Step router template" Tags="|router|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10635" CreationDate="2020-05-23T17:07:03.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did figure out a way to get a little more life from the belts: I stop sanding every few seconds and rest the sander on the steel table of my table saw to cool the belt.  They seem to go a little longer before they break when I do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the comments I received and on what I read in the other post that I mentioned in the question, I think the problem is most likely that the belts are old.  I will also try adjusting the belt tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I won't keep belts in stock because I sometimes go a year or more between projects and my belts just get old.  The garage gets pretty warm in the summer time, here in Rocklin, California, and I think it ages the belts faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8586" LastActivityDate="2020-05-23T17:07:03.923" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4254" CreationDate="2020-05-23T23:58:09.793" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I've done is followed as above. Use it until it's at that point where it's useless. Then I've tipped it into land/sand/bushes etc. The land will filter it. Of course some substances, paint particles etc, left behind will have no negative effect on its surrounding. Maybe once they're dried up dispose of them. If tipped into a bin or sink, would have a much more severe consequence. I don't think there's a perfect way of disposal. The fact you're asking the question shows you're considerate of the planet. I know painters and decorators that give less of, ahem on a daily basis. Not reusing brushes, paint trays at all, which is a shame. &#xA;I don't think burning sounds quite right. I would never burn melomine or painted products for instance. But I overthink a lot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8691" LastActivityDate="2020-05-23T23:58:09.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10636" CreationDate="2020-05-24T04:33:56.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Standard router inlay kits rely on different size guides to cut the inside (tabletop) and outside (insert).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One template (in your case, a little bigger than 51&quot;x7&quot;) will guide for both the tabletop and the insert cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted to get fancy, you could make a second template that would guide for the smaller hole, but since there's math involved, I wouldn't bother. Plus, you'd have to be perfectly accurate to center the two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would use a router guide collar to cut to a slight offset within the original tabletop cutout. (If the guide is deeper than you want the first recess, you'll have to shim the router base with something.) That'll take care of the stepped hole through the rest of the tabletop. Square the corners if that's important to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that you know what size the smaller (lower) hole in the tabletop is, you can cut your insert to size. You can go nuts with accuracy, or make it slightly loose... if loose, the top will hold it in fine. The goal is to get the underside of the insert dead flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My best idea would be to use a bearing guided rabbeting bit (exact size would be tricky), though you could also use a straight bit on a router table with a fence. A bearing guided wing cutter from the top side would work, but would be tough to keep perfectly accurate. You could also pass the insert through a table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last tip: make your template way oversized so you'll have the ability to clamp it to the table without getting in the way of the router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2020-05-24T04:33:56.977" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10641" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10648" CreationDate="2020-05-25T05:13:53.577" Score="0" ViewCount="70" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to build some shelves to store trays of dice. The trays are 13.7&quot; x 8.6&quot; x 1.37&quot; and are ~4.5 lbs when completely filled with dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of lifespan can I expect if I use 1/4&quot; pine plywood for the shelves and 3/4&quot; pine plywood for the outer box with pocket holes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my design as I would try to build it today:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tinkercad.com/things/jsiPei6bP1y-dice-tray-storage&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.tinkercad.com/things/jsiPei6bP1y-dice-tray-storage&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/msYyC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/msYyC.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8696" LastEditorUserId="8696" LastEditDate="2020-05-25T21:28:24.353" LastActivityDate="2020-05-25T22:20:06.107" Title="Dice Tray Storage" Tags="|design|storage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10643" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10644" CreationDate="2020-05-25T12:00:51.437" Score="0" ViewCount="133" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking for a portable table to use for cutting wooden pieces and panels. I saw one in a photo of a tool, but even after long google searches I just can't find what to call it or search for. Attached the photo below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VX4N2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VX4N2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;See the table/stand marked in red.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8700" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-05-25T13:50:01.957" LastActivityDate="2020-05-25T13:50:01.957" Title="Portable table/stand for cutting wood or boards?" Tags="|tool-selection|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10643" CreationDate="2020-05-25T13:09:31.493" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used a variety of search terms, but the one set with the best result is &quot;folding clamping work table tool&quot; which appeared to exclude a number of inappropriate responses. There are differing features from one product to the next, although the one shown does appear and can be found at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/folding-work-bench-tilt-turn-clamping-1797649904&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Worthpoint&lt;/a&gt;, which appears to be a page for an eBay store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BxhGK.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BxhGK.png&quot; alt=&quot;folding clamping work table tool image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The link I've posted is nearly worthless, but the search terms show that there are other sources, including Walmart (out of stock), Alibaba and a few other China-based operations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may find that the search terms provide you with a different product, better suited to your needs, or may provide for a better source for this item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastEditorUserId="3985" LastEditDate="2020-05-25T13:14:58.083" LastActivityDate="2020-05-25T13:14:58.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10641" CreationDate="2020-05-25T22:20:06.107" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The devil is in the details, but plywood is so stable that as this design will probably work for years and years if kept indoors and not used as part of an AD&amp;amp;D wet bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I question that &lt;em&gt;each&lt;/em&gt; tray is 5lbs, though. But whatever mass is present is spread over the entire surface, so whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will still have to allow for plywood to expand and contract as relative humidity changes. But this will only happen along the width as the plies swell a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you are using butt-joints for the box, as long as you prepare and clamp the glued faces appropriately, modern PVA glue joints will be stronger than the material around it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2020-05-25T22:20:06.107" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10649" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-25T23:17:19.747" Score="2" ViewCount="63" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to build some shelves to store trays of dice. The trays are 13.7&quot; x 8.6&quot; x 1.37&quot; and are ~4.5 lbs when completely filled with dice. I want to pull the shelves out far enough to open the tray, but not come all of the way out of the storage box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put some dowels on my design as that is what I would try first, but I have no idea if this will work in practice or how long they will last. What's the best (inexpensive) option to stop the shelves from coming out completely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my design as I would try to build it today: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tinkercad.com/things/jsiPei6bP1y-dice-tray-storage&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.tinkercad.com/things/jsiPei6bP1y-dice-tray-storage&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4dU42.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4dU42.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8696" LastActivityDate="2020-05-25T23:17:19.747" Title="Dado Shelf Stopper" Tags="|design|storage|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10650" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10653" CreationDate="2020-05-26T07:02:38.000" Score="0" ViewCount="949" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering about the feasibility of using a jigsaw to cut half lap joints. Is it even possible? How would one go about it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought that maybe one could set up a small jig to elevate the jigsaw above the wood and simulate the capability of adjusting the height of a circular saw blade. Is this safe? Will the jigsaw even cut if it doesn't clear the wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that it can be difficult to get properly square cuts with the jigsaw and it might require extra &quot;hand tool cleanup&quot;, but I'm kind of curious if this could be any faster/easier than simply using handsaws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8707" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-05-26T12:57:38.980" LastActivityDate="2020-05-26T13:08:50.420" Title="Using a jigsaw for joinery" Tags="|joinery|safety|jigsaw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10651" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-26T10:02:37.333" Score="0" ViewCount="839" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made some shelving out of scaffold boards and I was initially planning on a light, natural finish. After one application of boiled linseed oil (BLO) I changed my mind and now I want to go dark. It's been about 10 days since I applied the BLO. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got some Briwax (Jacobean colour) here so I'm hoping I can just start applying this over the BLO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a bad idea? Will the BLO alter the finish? If so should I sand the wood in an attempt to remove the BLO? Or should I accept my mistake and stick with the light finish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8708" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-05-26T14:38:59.593" LastActivityDate="2020-05-26T14:38:59.593" Title="Can I apply dark Briwax over boiled linseed oil?" Tags="|boiled-linseed-oil|wax|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10652" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10654" CreationDate="2020-05-26T12:24:19.680" Score="1" ViewCount="975" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to buy a bandsaw and am puzzled by the depth of cut issue. For instance, I can get a used 10 inch or 12 inch model, but they both have a 6&quot; depth of cut. If I wanted to saw logs into boards, it seems to me that the bigger model wouldn't add much, because I'd still be limited by the depth of cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When would the larger depth actually be useful?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4640" LastActivityDate="2020-05-26T18:47:13.027" Title="What is the advantage of a larger bandsaw if the depth of cut is the same?" Tags="|band-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10650" CreationDate="2020-05-26T13:01:58.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure this would be worth the time, even if you found a way to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A reciprocating blade doesn't like doing partial cuts. You will break blades like crazy even if you could find a way to get the cut started. Jigsaws aren't as eager to mangle the meat of unwary operators as other power tools, but you will still be hanging on for dear life for unexpected changes in direction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For through-cuts you will never, in my opinion, get a square enough cut for joinery. The cut would then require a lot of clean-up with hand tools anyway. The blade just isn't wide enough. (I suppose with a fence you could approximate a square face or edge, but that's not what we are talking about here.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jigsaws are best for doing long curves, similar to a band saw with a thinner blade. My suggestion is to use the appropriate tool for the the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just use hand tools, or get a circular saw if you need a powered way to make joinery cuts like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-05-26T13:08:50.420" LastActivityDate="2020-05-26T13:08:50.420" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10652" CreationDate="2020-05-26T13:15:31.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Choose a band saw on two main criteria: throat depth and cut depth. You are comparing two models with the same depth of cut, but one has a larger throat depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A larger throat depth gives you the ability for wider cuts. i.e., you could cut to a width of (nominally) 12 inches on the larger one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is up to you to decide if 10in. is large enough or not. I mean, if the question is &quot;why would you ever need to cut 12in. widths&quot; then I suppose you already know the answer. Other than the obvious answer of &quot;because you want to cut to 12in. wide boards&quot;, maybe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You make tables from slabs you saw yourself, and you like joining 12in. segments instead of some other even-valued maximum.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You make plywood panels for home studios, and standard 12in. panels are easier to work with. (There's a reason for a 16in. throat I guess.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have the space right now, and maybe one day you might want to saw to 12in. widths. Future-proofing is a reasonable buyer's criterion.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sometimes you need that space for other reasons than linear space, like cutting wide radiuses with thinner blades.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think, in general, when it comes to larger free-standing tools like this, someone will have an idea of the minimum size they need in one or more directions. The purchase will then be more driven by price, size, availability, service and repairability. I mean, why not get a 24-inch saw, just in case? Probably because it won't fit in the shop, or is too pricey. The difference between 10- and 12-inch saws will probably come down to these other criteria if you already know 10-inch throat is good enough for you right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the specs of each. Some models allow you to double the cut depth for resawing larger pieces with an attachment. Basically, you can move the guide up 6 inches or so and run a wider, thicker blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-05-26T18:47:13.027" LastActivityDate="2020-05-26T18:47:13.027" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10655" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-26T17:16:29.227" Score="0" ViewCount="3593" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I need a new desk, and preferably something that's solid wood that can support my dual-monitor mount without sagging or bending. I currently have an Ikea desk that's made of particleboard, and it's not going well! I did some research online and looks like the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/gerton-tabletop-beech-50106773/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gerton&lt;/a&gt; is going to be my best bet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, I'm looking for the simplest/quickest solution to treat the wood and give it some protection. I live in a not large apartment, and would have to treat everything indoors. I know that the best way to treat/finish wood takes a lot of time and patience, but I can't really afford to have this tabletop sitting around in my apartment for 2/3 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hXE-5BZ9oas&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;I found this video&lt;/a&gt;, and the dude just applies a couple of coats of mineral oil and calls it a day. I tried looking around to see if anyone else has tried this, but I'm finding conflicting comments—some saying it'd work totally fine, others say mineral oil won't provide actual protection, others saying mineral oil won't ever dry and/or that it won't work well with the pre-applied oil that comes on the Gerton.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be ok if I just sanded the tabletop down and applied 2-3 coats of mineral oil? I would be able to let it dry out overnight, but really not too much longer than that. Any advice would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8709" LastActivityDate="2020-05-27T19:22:15.123" Title="IKEA Gerton (solid beechwood) treatment with mineral oil?" Tags="|finishing|wood|furniture|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10655" CreationDate="2020-05-26T18:16:22.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;All of the information you've gotten online sounds to be correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It would work fine - well, depending on your definition of &quot;fine&quot;.  It will make unfinished wood look better by darkening it, but that's about it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mineral oil won't provide any actual protection - This is true, mineral oil does nothing to prevent scratches in the surface or liquids from staining it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mineral oil won't ever dry - finishes actually &quot;cure&quot;, not &quot;dry&quot;, but this is true.  The mineral oil you apply will stay soaked in the wood in a liquid form forever.  It can be washed out over time.  If you apply too much it will be absorbed by items placed on it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It won't work well with the current finish - Any film finishes or even cured oils will prevent mineral oil from being absorbed.  In the extreme this could cause more problems with the oil rubbing off on items on the surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your intent is to make a more durable surface but you need a quick cure time and you're happy with the current coloration I would suggest using a waterborne polyurethane finish, such as General Finishes brand High Performance.  You can apply coats with just a few hours in between and they cure enough for &lt;em&gt;light&lt;/em&gt; use in a day or less.  (Though I would avoid putting heavy items like monitors on them for a few days at least.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, putting different types of finishes over each other is always a bit of a gamble.  Ideally you could sand down the original finish, particularly if it's a film finish, before applying anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2020-05-26T18:21:42.107" LastActivityDate="2020-05-26T18:21:42.107" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10655" CreationDate="2020-05-26T18:19:33.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the core concern in your query is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm looking for the simplest/quickest solution to treat the wood and&#xA;  give it some protection&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, if we are to assume that the desk is &lt;em&gt;already&lt;/em&gt; finished using some sort of oil, which is suggested in your question, then the most obvious answer is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't do anything. Assemble the desk and use it.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you purchased raw, unfinished wood pieces from Ikea, it is already finished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; unfinished, according to a comment, the documentation for this SKU from Ikea specifies using their &quot;STOCKARYD&quot; product to finish it. From a look at the product page for that, this is a drying linseed oil finish that dries in 4-6 hours, and will eventually cure solid. In this regard, I would advise &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; using a non-drying oil like mineral oil. Everything else I mention below still holds true in general. So, if you &lt;em&gt;want&lt;/em&gt; to finish this table, the advice would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use the recommended drying linseed oil to finish the table&lt;/strong&gt;, waiting the recommended time for it to dry before using it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, the finish it has probably doesn't offer much in the way of protection from dings and scratches and knocks. In order to get that sort of protection, you would need to apply some sort of surface finish, like a polyurethane. But to do that you'd be advised to remove all the previous finish. And then follow the procedure for applying poly; which is easier these days, but is not a matter of a few easy days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mineral oil is considered a non-drying oil, so it will never truly harden, and it would not offer any more &quot;protection&quot; than you already have. And depending on the existing finish, it could remain sticky for days or even weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if the aim is to just get the table into service, don't refinish it. If you have a few days, use the recommended drying linseed oil finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-05-27T19:22:15.123" LastActivityDate="2020-05-27T19:22:15.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10658" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-26T21:42:12.247" Score="2" ViewCount="183" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had an order come in for an oversized chessboard - each square is about 3 inches. So it's big. The person wanted a maple frame around it, which at first I thought &quot;OK, no big deal&quot;, but then I realized that on half of it I'd be gluing end grain to side grain, and with the humidity fluctuations here in the northwest.. that's a recipe for disaster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Isn't it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the part I can't figure out. Looking at chess/checkerboards online, there doesn't seem to be a single one with that issue - there is grain going every which way with no apparent concern, even on the silly expensive ones. I would have assumed that the miters would break apart in short order given that you've got expansion forces trying to move and the ends are glued in tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I making a mountain out of a molehill? Like, you're not supposed to do that on tables and cutting boards - what makes chessboards different? At the end of the day, can I safely glue up a chessboard framed like the guy wanted, or is it going to break?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6093" LastActivityDate="2020-06-03T15:59:35.840" Title="Framing/edging a chessboard" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1823" CreationDate="2020-05-26T22:10:30.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Strange that there are no solid replies on any of this...maybe due to the vagueness of the question. For a winerack (you are NOT eating off the surface), you are in fact, asking about 'furniture coatings'...so most anything would work (unless you are licking your furniture!)&#xA;Now...I searched for a LONG TIME to find an answer to a more-specific question...'what finish should I use on a WOODEN BEER MUG that doubles as a RUM-BASED GROG MUG?' Now, we're talking about direct-contact FOOD APPLICATIONS!&#xA;To answer the question, 'what should I line my mug with, which will be exposed to mouth-contact and ethanol'...the answer comes down to ONLY ONE ANSWER: Polyurethane.&#xA;Polyurethane (once cured...30 days) is essentially a 'plastic', no different than a plastic cup or mug. It is considered by the U.S. Food-and-Drug-Administration as 'non-hazardous' for food contact applications, and other than the caveat that when dealing with polyurethane (especially water-based), you don't want it to 'soak'...make sure that you at least 'dump and allow draining' immediately after use (don't throw it into a standing sink of water for 2-weeks before you decide it's time to wash the dishes).&#xA;This all came about because the wife spent $30 on six REAL coconut cups/mugs, that were 'finished raw' (sanded smooth, but nothing else)...a drop of water and BOOM! They crack instantly! A day of research, a can of Varathane, and WOW!!! Nice looking, better color, waterproof, and work like perfection now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8710" LastActivityDate="2020-05-26T22:10:30.330" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10660" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10661" CreationDate="2020-05-27T09:31:44.727" Score="0" ViewCount="2839" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to build a heavy bag stand. I am going to place it outside in the car shed (which is open from three sides). I am wondering what is the best way to give it a strong base. The heavy bag will weigh around 200 pounds, and it will swing back and forth in all directions. This is where the problem comes in. I can't just put up an upside down capital L kind of structure. It will fall apart. I will be kicking the bag too. I can't permanently attach it to the ground. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know what is the best way to build this frame so that it doesn't fall over or collapse on my head. And I need to do it within budget. The structure I designed below seems stable enough on paper, but it would be a bit expensive. I think I am missing perpendicular bars coming down straight from the top and splitting the triangles in half. That would make it stronger, but again very expensive. I have no experience with woodworking, but I am very thorough in my work and I pay attention to details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other structures would provide the same stability (or would be better) without costing me an arm? Can someone give me some advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I was thinking of using either 2 inch x 4 inch x 8ft and may be a few 4 inch x 4 inch x 8ft&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LkrCU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LkrCU.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8713" LastEditorUserId="8713" LastEditDate="2020-05-27T09:51:31.360" LastActivityDate="2020-05-27T15:46:10.983" Title="How to build a stable heavy bag stand for kickboxing?" Tags="|design|strength|stability|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10660" CreationDate="2020-05-27T15:20:34.657" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, you're building a swing set for a single swing with a 200lb rider. The difference is that this swing can go a full 360° instead of just back-and-forth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Treating this as a &quot;shelf&quot; and using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Sagulator&lt;/a&gt;, I picked Eastern White Pine as an example of the standard type of &quot;SPF&quot; (spruce, pine, fir) that you're likely going to pick up at the local big box store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I spec'd a 4x6&quot; top bar* (4&quot; deep &quot;shelf&quot;, 6&quot; thick, i.e. placing the 4x6 with the 6&quot; face vertical) with a 200 lb single point load and an 8' span. It says that there would only be 0.01&quot; &lt;em&gt;total&lt;/em&gt; sag over the span, which it deems &quot;acceptable&quot; for a shelf and seems quite reasonable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;hr&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; this is for a &lt;em&gt;static&lt;/em&gt; load. You're gonna be kicking the tar out of this thing, so it's going to be swinging all over the place. That's going to put &lt;em&gt;significant&lt;/em&gt; dynamic load on your &quot;shelf&quot; and will significantly increase the momentary sag and the long term stress on this top bar.&lt;hr&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you adjust your plan to use a 4x6&quot; top bar, I think you'll have a reasonably secure mounting point for your heavy bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To support this mounting point (the 4x6&quot;), your triangles are the most stable platform you can design. There is no need for an additional vertical splitting each triangle. You'll probably want to make the diagonals from 4x4 material to resist the &lt;em&gt;dynamic&lt;/em&gt; forces you're going to impart. I'd suggest 2 @ 2x4 to connect the bottom of the 4x4s - one on each side to keep them from spreading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;HOWEVER&lt;/strong&gt;, the one thing still not accounted for is racking forces. Your design will keep this from tipping in the direction of the triangles. There is &lt;em&gt;nothing&lt;/em&gt; to prevent it from tipping along the axis of the top bar (one triangle toward the other).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To prevent this, you'll need some diagonal bracing from the top bar to the triangle braces. I'd suggest that on each end, you run one diagonal from the bottom of the 4x6 to the bottom of the triangle on each side. You'd want these diagonals to intersect the top bar at about 1/3 distance (about 25-30&quot; in from each end) and run down to the center of the bottom cross member. Where they intersect the 2x4 at the bottom, I'd put a piece of 4x4 in between as blocking to strengthen and recruit both of the 2x4s to help resist racking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An afterthought on the diagonal bracing: If you need all the space between the triangles and think that the internal bracing would get in your way, you could build a right-triangle on the &lt;em&gt;outside&lt;/em&gt; of each triangle. This would attach at the end of the 8' 4x6 and extend the overall length of the apparatus. I'd use the same 45° angle to extend the triangle outwards, then use some more 2x4 to attach the bottom of this angled piece of 4x4 (one on each side, just like the main triangles) to the center of the 2x4 bracing at the bottom of the other triangles. Connect these using some 2x4 joist hangers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will all this extra and larger lumber blow your budget? Absolutely!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will the one-time purchase price be lower than an ongoing gym membership? You bet!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will the lumber costs be cheaper than a trip to the ER if this fails on you? Without a doubt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final tips: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This will experience tremendous loads as you swing that heavy bag around. Make sure your joints are cut accurately and tightly. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't skimp on fasteners. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are lumber screws that are designed for construction loads. They're pretty pricey, but they're worth it for this kind of construction. They'll hold better than nails. Nails will pull out under these loads.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't try to use drywall screws (designed for interior drywall) or decking screws (designed to hold thin deck down vertically over joists).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You may want to add some metal mending plates to reinforce joints and some &quot;joist hanger&quot; or &quot;rafter tie&quot; type of plates to hold on the inside corners. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some common sense while looking at the types available at your local big-box will help you understand what they have and where to apply them to your construction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pick up a box of &quot;joist hanger nails&quot; while you're there getting your metal reinforcements. They're specifically designed for the holes in the hangers and are short enough to not poke through the other side of the 2x material. You could go whole hog and splash out a few extra bucks for &quot;joist hanger screws&quot;, just to be sure. With the fairly small quantity you'll use, it shouldn't be &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; much more.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;hr&gt;* Just out of curiosity, I spec'd a 4x4&quot; and even a 2x4&quot; and it deems them all to be &quot;acceptable&quot; for &lt;em&gt;static&lt;/em&gt; shelf loads. I would think neither of these would take the stresses of the &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; live load you're going to have. I wouldn't use either of these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2020-05-27T15:46:10.983" LastActivityDate="2020-05-27T15:46:10.983" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10660" CreationDate="2020-05-27T15:32:14.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The structure I designed below seems stable enough on paper...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would disagree with your appraisal.  For clarity I refer to the direction of the triangular base pieces as 'front/back' and the overhead beam as 'side to side'.  While the triangles give the structure stability front to back, there is little to no bracing side to side.  All the stress of the movement in any direction must be transferred to the ground and it is transferred through the connection of the triangular tops.  No matter which way you impact the bag all of the force is transferred to the structure at top pivot point of the bag and this point must be stabilized in all directions.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To resist the front to back force direction you need to have a broader top beam. You could add another 2x8 top plate to the vertically oriented beam to create a 'T' shaped beam.  The current beam is only 1 1/2&quot; wide in the front to back direction and needs a wider profile to transfer the strike force. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To resist side to side force you must add diagonal braces top beam to each side of the triangular sides. The larger they are the better.  I would attempt to start them several feet from the bag pivot point and extend them around halfway down the triangular side pieces. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you get the clearances you require, you might consider tilting the side triangles toward the pivot point to shorten the length of the top beam.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your connections are critical.  Use screws or bolts, not nails to insure that the connections do not loosen over time.  The junction of the wood members should be flush, which means you will need to cut odd, but exact angles.  Of course the more permanent the connections, the more difficult it will be to make it portable (if that is a criteria for you).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your 2x4 size seems adequate, but the top beam should be 2x8.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mentioned that this is in a carport.  If you could cross brace the carport structure it might be possible to simply hang it under the roof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2020-05-27T15:32:14.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10663" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-27T20:54:28.623" Score="0" ViewCount="208" Body="&lt;p&gt;the new stains are all different some like a leopard with heavy dark spots on some treads and others light in areas;  wood filler is a whole different issue and not taking stain; contractor used stain poly and then sand/restain now the weird patterns (not wood grain) are emerging--again like a leopard.  The stairs are ruined and a showcase to the whole home.  Do we have to totally start over?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8715" LastActivityDate="2020-05-27T20:54:28.623" Title="Help. Stair Treads are Blotchy Now They Look like a Leopard with Dark Spots on Some/Not All" Tags="|staining|filler|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10664" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10665" CreationDate="2020-05-28T01:48:43.563" Score="1" ViewCount="658" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to build a bigger workbench than the one I have now, and in my basement are several old doors (flat hollow-core doors, no panels or windows or anything) left by the previous owner. My idea was to take off the doorknobs and mount the door on a frame made of 2*4s; I'm figuring the door will be flat and stable. Any reason not to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8005" LastActivityDate="2020-06-13T17:30:50.100" Title="Does a door make a reasonable workbench top?" Tags="|workbench|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10664" CreationDate="2020-05-28T01:55:18.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hollow-core doors would not make a very good workbench top.  The surface layer is very thin, either 1/8&quot; material like a soft skin Masonite material.  Very easy to drive your fist through it.  Would not take hammer blows, pounding, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did purchase two hollow-core doors to lay on portable saw horses. I can lay plywood on the doors and use the gap between the two doors as the opening for the saw blade. This provide full support for the plywood sheet on both side of the cut. Doors are light, easy to set up and put away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8556" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-05-28T09:42:46.840" LastActivityDate="2020-05-28T09:42:46.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10664" CreationDate="2020-05-28T12:36:29.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only reason to not do this is that the surface skin may not significant amounts of abuse before it's too torn up to be usable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need a bench top that can take some abuse, the door will work as an excellent &lt;em&gt;base&lt;/em&gt; for your bench top. Frame it in 2x4 (you may need a center rib, too - that will be best determined through experience), then add a top layer of 1/2&quot; or 3/4&quot; plywood or OSB (depending on budget and desires). Screw this layer down through the edges of the door (where there's solid wood) and into the 2x4 below. Ensure you counter sink your screw heads to you don't hit them with tools (especially plane blades).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ply/OSB will take the abuse while the door itself will ensure you've got a nice flat surface. The screws will allow you to easily replace the work surface in the future if this one gets too chewed up for your liking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2020-05-28T12:36:29.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10667" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-28T22:11:34.803" Score="0" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;The mill is rough turned to 2 3/8 inch diameter. I drilled the hole for the body first, then parted the top and drilled the top for the shaft. When I put the top tenon into the bottom hole there is no play but the tenon top is not concentric with the bottom hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8716" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-06-24T20:01:55.017" LastActivityDate="2021-06-24T20:01:55.017" Title="I made a pepper mill. The top is not concentric with the bottom. How do I correct this?" Tags="|wood-repair|turning|lathe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10668" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10671" CreationDate="2020-05-28T23:15:28.850" Score="1" ViewCount="90" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a small end table out of plywood, and I decided to make a template out of MDF and then shape the actual plywood pieces with a router. The photos below show the basic shape of the leg pieces. On a bandsaw, cutting out this template would be a ninety-second job, but I don't have a bandsaw. I have a jigsaw, a hand saw (Western, not Japanese), a router (handheld, not table-mounted), and a handheld orbital sander. So shaping this template has turned into a tedious symphony for jigsaw, hand saw, and sander, requiring constant repositioning of the workpiece, etc. Basically, hand saw on the long straight sections, jig saw for places where I can't use the hand saw, sander for outside corners and tidying up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of which leads back to the original question: was there a better way to do this with the tools I have available?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ozpob.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ozpob.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mj8Jl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mj8Jl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8005" LastActivityDate="2020-05-29T14:07:19.877" Title="Was there a better way to make this template?" Tags="|technique|mdf|template|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10669" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-29T03:11:40.280" Score="0" ViewCount="310" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the minimum radius that 6 mm  &lt;a href=&quot;https://mdfosb.com/en/medite/products/medite-tricoya-extreme&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Medite Tricoya Extreme&lt;/a&gt; MDF (an MDF for outdoor use) can be bent to? If possible I want to bend it to a radius of 2500 mm, without &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/kerfing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;kerfing&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will be fixed with screws over the whole surface, so it doesn't matter if it wants to spring back. What I'm interested in is if it is likely to crack when I bend it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will use painted &lt;a href=&quot;https://mdfosb.com/en/medite/products/medite-tricoya-extreme&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Medite Tricoya Extreme&lt;/a&gt; as the surface layer of a skateboard ramp. The manufacturer doesn't publish bendability data, and I haven't got hold of them to ask. The material is very expensive, so it would be great to hear if anyone has experience with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8717" LastEditorUserId="8717" LastEditDate="2020-06-02T18:02:33.870" LastActivityDate="2021-03-02T00:05:02.107" Title="What is the mimumum bend radius for 6 mm Medite Tricoya Extreme MDF?" Tags="|mdf|bending|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10670" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10683" CreationDate="2020-05-29T05:59:56.923" Score="1" ViewCount="1224" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a bed for my toddler out of pine, and wondering what dimension wood I should use for the bed slats, and how many. Toddler mattresses are generally on the order of 52&quot; x 27&quot; or 28&quot;, so I'm making the inner dimensions of the frame 52.5&quot; x 28.5&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How many slats, and of what dimension should I use for the bed to be strong enough to handle a bouncy toddler? And do I need a center support running the length of the frame, or is 28&quot; short enough that wood slats should be fine without additional support?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8718" LastActivityDate="2020-08-10T18:52:45.090" Title="How thick to make toddler bed slats" Tags="|furniture|safety|strength|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10668" CreationDate="2020-05-29T14:07:19.877" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I feel your pain. Sometimes the right tool just isn't in the garage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would do for the long straight shots is use the router with a straight edge. Either a bearing-guided template bit (easy, because you just put your straightedge on the line), a guide collar (involves offset math, so a bit harder), or (less preferred because a base isn't always dead center to the bit, &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; you have a slim workpiece) clamping a fence that the outer base of the router rides against.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nibbling with the jigsaw seems like something the cursed do in a place of eternal damnation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2020-05-29T14:07:19.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10667" CreationDate="2020-05-29T15:53:42.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the top into the base&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;chuck it &lt;em&gt;firmly&lt;/em&gt; into the lathe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;turn the top so it's now concentric&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure that this is be recommended, however. I believe it's extremely likely that the two pieces would separate while spinning on the lathe and that would be a Bad Thing™, potentially causing injury and/or damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be, however, &lt;em&gt;possible&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2020-05-29T15:53:42.347" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10675" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-29T23:14:39.303" Score="1" ViewCount="3556" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making some one-piece shaker style doors out of MDF. To cut the inset, I'm using a 1/2&quot; collet router with a 2&quot; surfacing bit. I was using a trim router with a 3/4&quot; straight bit but I was having this same problem, so I bought a much heftier router thinking the trim router was underpowered. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything seems to go smoothly as I cut out the inset, but once I take the router off and look, there's many lines where the bit somehow changed depth and cut deeper into the workpiece. I even made a gigantic baseplate out of MDF so that it's supported on all four sides at all times, to no avail. My router base is locked securely, the bit is sufficiently tightened in the collet and the 15lb router is completely flat against the workpiece, and I just can't think of how the bit could possibly change depth. I've had this exact same problem on two well-reviewed routers now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The inset is 3/8&quot; into 3/4&quot; MDF and I'm doing it all in one pass. I imagine this isn't ideal but I don't know any way I could take multiple passes on this setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OA3J6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Super baseplate&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KkTow.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Not-so-groovy grooves&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UcA82.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close-up of the worst offender&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8725" LastEditorUserId="8725" LastEditDate="2020-05-29T23:19:58.000" LastActivityDate="2020-05-30T16:06:43.617" Title="Why does my router change depth while I work?" Tags="|router|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10676" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-30T14:03:02.567" Score="2" ViewCount="445" Body="&lt;p&gt;When paring waste from dovetails with a chisel I often slice up my fingers on the back edge of my chisels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lumberjocks.com/topics/28432&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Paring chisels cutting up my fingers!&quot;&gt;This forum thread discusses this topic&lt;/a&gt; with two recommendations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Just let your hands develop calluses from being constantly cut&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Lightly&lt;/em&gt; sand the edges starting 1/2&amp;quot; from the cutting edge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a hobbyist and don't do this enough so I'll never develop calluses. Taking the edge off with a strop or high grit sandpaper sounds like it will work but before I do that I'd like to ask about proper paring technique (maybe I'm just doing it wrong).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When paring a dovetail or tenon what is the proper way to hold the chisel? (Ideally so my guide hand doesn't get sliced up)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6011" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2020-08-17T04:58:49.807" LastActivityDate="2020-08-17T04:58:49.807" Title="How do I avoid cutting my fingers on the sides of my chisel when paring?" Tags="|hand-tools|chisel|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10675" CreationDate="2020-05-30T15:36:49.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Either the tool is slipping in the collet, the collet itself is slipping, or the plunge mechanism is moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The comments seem to indicate that it is the tool itself slipping, not the interchangeable collet or the plunge mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, either the collet is damaged, or the tool is not mating with the collet surface appropriately. Since this is a newer tool, we can assume the collet is not damaged, or was working recently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you had issues with a previous router, make sure the tool shank isn't chewed up. Any protrusions on the shank will keep the collet from getting a positive bite on it. If the shank is really damaged, replace it. If the shank has some marks on it, feel them with your thumbnail. If the material has galled or mushroomed a bit, you will feel it, and anything above the surface of the shank is going to be a problem. Minor damage like this can be carefully filed and even stoned flat. Minor gouges and scratches can be ignored; it is the material that is proud of the shank we want to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, make sure the collet is in good shape. Check for obvious damage, or galled metal sticking up. If the collet is new make sure you remove any factory anti-corrosion coating it might have on the inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the collet is not damaged, and the shank is in good shape, then it might be the way the tool is installed into the chuck. Your manual will describe how to mount the tool in the chuck, but I find they miss out on two important pieces of advice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to put the tool in the chuck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How tight to torque the tool down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, while there is a minimum amount of shank you want in the chuck (something like half the shank or some minimum, like 20mm, whichever is greater) we also want to be careful about jamming the tool down so the end is tight to the inside bottom of the chuck. This is a problem because as the tool heats up the metals involved can expand, causing the tool to work itself loose. Also, some chucks and collets are such that the collet jaws don't go all the way to the bottom, leaving some amount of shank exposed at the bottom. I have a Sears router that specifically calls this design out in their tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice is to drop the tool to the end, and then pull it up 1mm or so (or more, if your manual says so, like my aforementioned Sears router), and only &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; tighten it. This allows for some heat expansion, and lets the collet centre the tool while tightening without it snagging on the bottom of the chuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for how much torque to use to tighten the tool, this is a matter of feel. Though, the spanners or wrenches you get with routers usually reflect the recommended torque range. Larger tools that expect more spinning mass and wider diameter cutters will come with larger spanners, reflecting the need to torque them down more. We don't want to bear down on it like an 800-lb gorilla, but a steady, firm, full handed rotation until it feels nice and snug is in order. Don't jerk on it, but move the spanner smoothly. One trick is to tighten and then move the spanner to a new location and give it a test tighten. You'll often get a 1/8th or 1/16th turn just by changing the tool position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-05-30T16:06:43.617" LastActivityDate="2020-05-30T16:06:43.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10678" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-30T19:05:16.017" Score="0" ViewCount="2866" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the proper way to dilute water based oil-modified polyurethane?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know for oil based poly, to use mineral spirits. Water based poly, use water. I couldn't find any details on how to dilute water based oil-modified polyurethane though. Water or mineral spirits?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm struggling keeping my finish bubble free using a foam or bristle brush, and want to dilute it thin enough to wipe on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8728" LastActivityDate="2020-06-02T18:16:08.353" Title="Proper way to dilute water based oil-modified polyurethane?" Tags="|finishing|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10676" CreationDate="2020-05-31T08:50:32.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Taking the edge off with a strop or high grit sandpaper sounds like it will work&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes it will. I've had to do it on a number of chisels and it takes no time and works really well, transforming how comfortable they are to use&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(maybe I'm just doing it wrong).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interestingly, according to at least one noted woodworker (Toshio Odate&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;) you are doing it wrong ^_^ But within reason for Western chisels I see no reason not to make them more comfortable for uncalloused hands to hold, if for no other reason than you can then hold them in nearly any way, and then manipulate them in any direction, without risk of a slice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When paring a dovetail or tenon what is the proper way to hold the chisel? (Ideally so my guide hand doesn't get sliced up)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMO this is really impossible to answer in just words, and anyway it varies from person to person so a written description won't do the subject justice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest you look at a few experienced dovetailers working and simply mimic what they're doing. Frank Klausz would be a superb person to begin with&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Videos are great but it would not be a bad idea to review a few good hand-tool books for the basic, or textbook, grips. But once you get to doing this — with your chisels, in your hands, at the height you are working at — you will modify the grip as you go to suit your needs. So to a degree the textbook grip is just a starting point, as you'll see in videos of experienced pros working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Just a few passes with 220 grit works well, but really it's up to you what to use and how far to take it since they need to be comfortable to your hands, nobody else's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; This was related by Mike Pekovich in one of Fine Woodworkings podcasts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Not just for this, but also to see how fast you can saw dovetails (nearly unbelievably fast BTW).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-05-31T08:50:32.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10680" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10742" CreationDate="2020-05-31T10:29:47.367" Score="1" ViewCount="370" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently purchased a plunge saw and a blade. The saw is a Mac Allister MSPS1200, which is a rebranded Titan in UK, similar to many cheap ones. The blade is a good Freud 1.7mm kerf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have now checked the manual of the saw and it says to use blades with a kerf from 2.2 to 3.5mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering, what's the worst that can happen? Is the limit due to the arbour nut not locking properly? Could that be fixed with a 0.5mm washer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not trimmed the track splinter guard so that's not an issue, yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7964" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-06-23T18:40:22.660" LastActivityDate="2020-06-23T18:40:22.660" Title="How thin a blade in plunge saw" Tags="|safety|circular-saw|kerf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10681" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10689" CreationDate="2020-05-31T13:43:52.773" Score="0" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm very new to woodworking, and for my first project I decided to make a very simple shelf out of reclaimed pallet wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can imagine the pallet standing on it's side, with the planks vertical, that's where I'm getting with the shelf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top side is going well (yes, I regret starting top down).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue is that the bottom wood is rotted out and I have to cut it before completing the shelf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am plagued by fears that after all my measuring and cutting, that the bottom won't be level. How do I guarantee the bottom will be level? I am very new to all this and very scared of getting the cut wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a technique or a method to do so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To elaborate: I have taken a pallet that has been left out in the elements for some time and partially stripped it down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My intent is to set it upright (boards running the length are vertical). And then add more boards at the top and center for shelves. I doubt I could have it freestanding, because I suspect it might be unstable, so I'll have to make some sort of base for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main issue, and why I delayed the base is because the ends of the board at the base are pretty rotted having been left in a pile of dirt and leaves for so long. I figure I need to cut out the rotted portion before anything else. I know how much length I need to cut. But with this being the base, I need it level with the ground, and the thought of not getting the measurements or cut right is making me anxious. I'm really new to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have basic tools. Overall, I have a hammer, a wedge, a clamp, a handsaw, a tape measure, and a spirit level, among others. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to mark 14cm from the bottom of the rotted boards, and cut those all off in a way that it's level to make a base which will support the entire shelf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday, I had gotten as far as to mark some spots where on the boards I need to cut, but then I stopped. I just had this feeling that I didn't know enough of what I was doing to continue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT 2: I apologize for the lack of clarity. I'm not used to explaining these things. But I'll get there. I can't take a photo, because the camera on my phone is broken, but I did make a very, very crude drawing on Paint. I really hope it makes things clearer. Again, I'm still getting the hang of how to convey all this. Attached in a rough layout of what I need cut/level.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sWtks.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sWtks.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8731" LastEditorUserId="8731" LastEditDate="2020-06-02T16:36:42.510" LastActivityDate="2020-06-02T18:12:34.687" Title="How do I ensure that the bottom of my shelf project is level?" Tags="|cutting|measurement|reclaimed-wood|pallet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10670" CreationDate="2020-06-01T13:00:21.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a look at how wood is used to make load-bearing spans in any construction. For static loads, the idea is to transfer the loads to the floor, and thence to the ground, with minimal deflection (under normal loads) and without danger of sudden catastrophic failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three main ways of achieving this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use dimensions large enough to resist deflection and failure; either have large enough pieces, or &amp;quot;sister&amp;quot; them up to make larger pieces.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Orient the wood so the forces act on it where it is most able to handle those forces. For example, the centre rail of a bed or a house joist is usually placed so that the forces act on the edge of a longer piece, not the face. Because of the internal structure of wood, orienting dimension lumber so the forces are along the smaller width, perpendicular to the larger width, gives you the most durability and strength.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you cannot orient your material so the forces are along the strongest face in this manner you have to support those spans with another construction member that &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be oriented in this manner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case discussed here, we have to make some decision about the dimensions and orientation of bed slats so that we don't deflect so much that they fall out the bottom, or catastrophically fail during some high activity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, there are all sorts of published data about the relative strengths and maximum loads of dimension lumber of various species. But wood is a natural product, and resists easy categorization like this. In practice, a woodworker will use their experience and the experience of others, along with &amp;quot;feel&amp;quot; to just get an idea of what will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, take any candidate pine or spruce slat you intend on using; any softwood will do, actually. Place it on two 2x4s so it spans 30 inches or so. Try to deflect it in the centre. You'll find that is is actually quite elastic, and will deflect a lot. If you push hard enough it might even slip off the 2x4, or the forces will push the 2x4s out of the way (which simulates the problem with bed rails bowing out). Try to get a feel for how much force and bounce the material has, and think about how that will work out in the real, dynamic world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you think about the static loads of a sleeping child, or the dynamic loads of an active child, you can see that most spans that rely on the strength of the face of softwood usually needs help. That's #3, above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, wood is incredibly strong for its mass, if used appropriately. Your standard sized 1x4 inch pine slat will be all kinds of strong enough. I think 30 inches is an acceptable span in a queen sized bed for adults using this dimension. It might be too bouncy for a toddler, though. I recommend you give it a test as above and make your own decision. I will point out there is really no penalty here for overbuilding a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With smaller dimension slats, you will definitely want to provide a centre rail, which will support the slat by transferring the load along the edge of another member so the load is shared among those members, reducing deflection in each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, the problem with slats is that they are generally loose. They aren't typically fastened to the side rails because they will just move with humidity and split. For the same reason you can't jam them in tight side-by-side or they will buckle with the next swing in humidity. You can provide pins you let them &amp;quot;float&amp;quot; between, or do the Ikea thing of attaching them with stapled fabric to make a &amp;quot;slat ladder&amp;quot;, or even slot them and fasten them loosely so they can move, in the same manner as a solid wood table top is attached to the apron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But my recommendation is get some sturdy high-quality plywood (i.e., &amp;quot;veneered plywood&amp;quot;, similar to the veneers used by flat-pack furniture sellers) and cut that to fit your bed rails, supported on all sides (and possibly a centre-rail, even if to keep the bed from becoming a &amp;quot;drum&amp;quot;). Cut it in half, chamfer the edges, and drill and chamfer a finger hole in each so you can grab them for removal and installation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A toddler will definitely find the slats, and will definitely want to mess with them. There is the danger they might get their fingers or other body parts jammed in there, with all the potential harm that implies. Using plywood reduces this sort of problem, and is also way more dimensionally stable and stronger than pine slats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-08-10T18:52:45.090" LastActivityDate="2020-08-10T18:52:45.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10684" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10685" CreationDate="2020-06-01T22:21:47.427" Score="0" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built a cedar above ground planter last summer for my mother-in-law, and one of the sides didn’t hold well. I used pocket screws to secure the sides to the posts - but one broke out (pic below)...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fix this, I was considering filling the void with some sort of adhesive and then simply placing the board back into place. Once the adhesive cures, it would be nice and solid. But I’m not sure what would work well(if at all). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What type of adhesive would work for that? Or is there a different approach that would work better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pic:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/49xJJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/49xJJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8735" LastActivityDate="2020-06-02T18:19:06.660" Title="Fixing cedar pocket hole failure" Tags="|joinery|epoxy|adhesives|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10684" CreationDate="2020-06-02T01:34:28.323" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use something like Loctite Marine Epoxy applied the way you described but also apply to the butt of the board.&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;My guess as to why the pocket hole failed, it appears the setup for the guide set the exit points too close to the edge of the butt on the side board and not at the butt's C/L.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8556" LastEditorUserId="8556" LastEditDate="2020-06-02T18:19:06.660" LastActivityDate="2020-06-02T18:19:06.660" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10686" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-02T16:41:15.757" Score="1" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last year, I built my first piece of outdoor live-edge furniture: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/7471/what-are-the-potential-issues-with-this-bench-design&quot;&gt;What are the potential issues with this bench design?&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/7458/what-should-be-done-to-treat-decorative-wood-for-outdoor-use&quot;&gt;What should be done to treat decorative wood for outdoor use?&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expected there would be problems, and that's fine; making mistakes over and over is how we learn and grow.  Often I expect to throw away my first couple attempts at something new and replace it with better once I've perfected my skills.  However, I would like to 'save' this particular piece as it has meaning to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This bench was sanded down to 220 grit, then coated with 10 layers of Target Coatings EM-9300 exterior polycarbonate urethane applied with an HPLV sprayer.  I then sanded this down lightly with 500 grit and rubbed it out for a mirror smooth finish.  The bench was placed outside in April of last year and weathered the summer just fine.  However, upon inspecting it this year after the winter, I'm seeing what appears to be water damage in some areas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BqOAe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BqOAe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8HhLR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8HhLR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that the cold weather caused contraction and expansion which cracked the coating.  I also probably shouldn't have tried leaving the bark on (or is that phloem or cambium?).  What is the proper way to address this now, and prevent a recurrence next winter?  Or is the most time and cost efficient option to take my lessons learned and create a new piece from scratch to replace this one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-06-08T20:13:16.517" LastActivityDate="2020-06-08T20:13:16.517" Title="How do I repair winter/water damage and protect against future weathering problems?" Tags="|wood-repair|water-protection|live-edge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10678" CreationDate="2020-06-02T16:57:59.943" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We may as well turn the comments into an answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is the proper way to dilute water based oil-modified&#xA;  polyurethane?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, the official answer from the manufacturers is &quot;you don't&quot;. Though some folks have used distilled water and even surfactents intended for breaking surface tension in latex paint (usually for spray application) it is unclear how oil-modified finishes would work with either. My guess is probably not well, but you are encouraged to try on a test piece if you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, your solutions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a wiping poly and use that if this is your preferred application method.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Review the application notes from the manufacturer and try again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for (2) they probably recommend:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply with a synthetic brush for water-based finishes and &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; a foam brush.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wet the brush with a solvent (water, in this case) and shake off excess before using it to apply finish.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Never shake the finish; stir gently only.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't wipe excess off the brush along the container. Rather, lightly tap the brush a little against the side of the container to remove excess so the brush stays relatively loaded. This may be easier if you transfer some of the finish to another container and use that as your working amount.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brush with the grain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply the finish and move on. Try not to go over these fast-drying polys.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is that we want the finish to go on relatively wet so any small bubbles rise to the top before it dries. Once dry enough, a light sanding should be enough to rough up the surface and remove any small bubbles before applying another coat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you read between the lines of the application notes, you can see that since they recommend wetting  and cleaning the brush with water, you can probably dilute this finish some small amount with distilled water. Whether or not you should is up to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2020-06-02T16:57:59.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10686" CreationDate="2020-06-02T17:00:43.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think your best bet is to flood the edges with a thin epoxy.  Since you're using a glossy film finish this won't really impact the look too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2020-06-02T17:00:43.053" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10681" CreationDate="2020-06-02T18:12:34.687" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think what you are asking is:  How do I ensure all my vertical boards are the same length.  Often, this is more important than being a &lt;em&gt;particular&lt;/em&gt; length.  Another way to say it is:  You desire precision over accuracy.  This is a common goal in cabinetry, and you should be pleased that you figured out that it's important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the trick I use to help make sure things are the same length:  Cut them all together.  I have the benefit of a chop saw, which helps immensely.  I trim one end off, just to be sure it's square, and repeat for each board.  Then, and here is the trick, you stack them up, stand the stack up on a flat surface, align the edges, and clamp them together.  You now have a bundle of boards which are perfectly aligned on a) the cut end and b) one long edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I have a chop saw, it is now trivial to mark and chop the bundle to length all in one fell swoop.  But as you have hand tools, it will be a bit more difficult.  Using your square (Don't have one?  Buy one.  This is essential.  A plastic speed square will cost about $5) and a sharp pencil, mark the bundle to length, and draw a line all the way around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now your bundle is marked and ready to saw.  I'll give you a couple more tricks to make this go better.  First, clamp the bundle to something solid.  You do not want it jumping around as you saw.  Hand saws can get grabby, and having your bundle secure will minimize this.  Second, take your saw and start at the top corner on the far side.  Just make a little cut, 1/4&quot; to 1/2&quot; deep, with the edge of the kerf exactly on the edge (the waste side, of course) of your pencil line.  You now have a little groove that will guide the saw blade, so you can turn your attention to aligning the saw with the marks.  Put the saw in the groove, close one eye, and just spend some time looking at your saw.  Sight along it long ways and make sure you are aligned with the top mark.  Take a few more flat strokes with the saw, so you've made a groove that extends the full width of your stack.  Do this carefully because this will help guide you through the rest of the cut.  You only need 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch groove.  Now, as you did above, reset the saw in the groove, and spend some more time sighting along the saw.  This time sight up-and-down, along the line drawn on the side of the stack.  Take a moment to feel the position of your arm.  Make sure your elbow and shoulder are exactly in the same plane as the cut.  You can't make a straight cut if your arm is swinging in an arc.  Once you have aligned the saw and your body, take some gentle strokes.  Blow away sawdust so you can clearly see the line.  Recheck your body position every few strokes.  Take smooth and gentle strokes... you should feel like you are brushing sawdust out of the groove.  If it seems harder than that, you are either pushing too hard, or you have the saw crooked in the kerf.  Whenever the blade binds, or you seem to be wandering off the line, STOP, and recheck your body position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sounds complicated, but once you have a good sense of the sequence, you can be sawing, blowing, sighting, resting, and continuing, in about a 5-second loop, and make good progress through your stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does occur to me that your pallet may still be assembled, and you may be unwilling to disassemble it to make a stack of uprights.  If you want it square, you might have to disassemble it.  But if you can establish that it is square at the top corners, you can use the principle of a rectangle having equal diagonals to make your bottom square, and use the tricks I've mentioned about sawing to ensure a straight and true cut all the way across the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7614" LastActivityDate="2020-06-02T18:12:34.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10686" CreationDate="2020-06-02T18:13:03.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The material you selected for the top coat is only water-resistant,i.e., not water-proof nor for use for continuous exposed in an area exposed to the weather year round.  In your initial questions that you provided links to; correct answers were provided for &quot;water proof&quot; finishes for exposures to weather year round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could refinished the damage area, and recoat the entire bench with a weather proof finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Section  below added to answer OP's question in comment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your finish was more for UV protection and it can be difficult to read between the lines, Your finish is for vertical applications, not standing water.  The EM9300 product description reads &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...that require a hard yet flexible coating in high UV exposure environments. EM9300 contains UV reflectors for a finish that is resistant to sun exposure that can cause graying or fading.  EM9300 water based exterior urethane offers excellent water resistance during vertical water exposures.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the comments of your original post, comments were provided that the choice of the Target product as a top coat may not be right one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another mistake is that you might have over-sanded or did not apply enough thickness to the layers of finish.  It's hard to believe that 10 layers of finish allow water to penetrate that fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Above is a short answer to show where you went wrong, I need time to review the other Answers and recommendations in the other link, but the selection should contains something like, &quot;Marine varnish, spar; weather-proof&quot;, not weather-resistant&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Target brand might have worked if applied in proper thickness, and covering the bench in the winter, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a link to &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodimprove.com/best-exterior-polyurethanes/#product1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;top outdoor finishes&lt;/a&gt;.  #5 on the list is stated to be highly rated for its water resistance and exposure to extreme weather.  &quot;Waterproof&quot; as a description may no longer be used because of legal concerns.  No more waterproof watches, only water resistance, LOL&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8556" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2020-06-05T11:52:48.770" LastActivityDate="2020-06-05T11:52:48.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10678" CreationDate="2020-06-02T18:16:08.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One trick I've used with success, because yes, water based polys can be foamy, is this:  Once you lay down your coat, and tip out as many bubbles as you can, take a hand held propane torch and wave the flame over the surface.  Obviously, you don't want to cook your finish, but a pass of hot air will pop bubbles in a satisfying way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7614" LastActivityDate="2020-06-02T18:16:08.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10658" CreationDate="2020-06-02T18:23:43.393" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about making it in a frame-and-panel style?  So that the chess board has room to move in the frame's grooves?  You do not want to reduce the playing surface any, so you could cut the tongue on the frame and the groove in the board, kinda backwards to tradition, but should work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7614" LastActivityDate="2020-06-02T18:23:43.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10658" CreationDate="2020-06-03T15:59:35.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made solid chessboards like you are talking about, though smaller, (2&quot; squares) and I put a boarder around them, walnut and maple, with an Oak boarder.  One thing I did do for the board was tongue and groove, around the edge, I put a groove all around the board and the edges I gave a tongue.  If you have larger stuff it might be easier to use a spline, making a groove on both the board and the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The boards are still holding up just fine after 10+ years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2020-06-03T15:59:35.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10694" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-03T16:47:48.283" Score="0" ViewCount="1132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to this, so thanks for your patience. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a maple-veneer dining table that is about a foot too long for the space I have but it is otherwise about perfect and a gorgeous maple and design. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is extendable (&lt;em&gt;2 leaves&lt;/em&gt;) with nice solid extenders underneath that I think are only screwed in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I cut down the top without a disaster that chips the top/veneer? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, I'd remove the extenders underneath first; there's room to reattach them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably not a circular saw with a guide?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VJGXz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sD9b7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8738" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-06-15T05:03:29.067" LastActivityDate="2020-11-12T07:06:25.617" Title="Cut down a veneered table top" Tags="|tabletop|veneer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10695" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10696" CreationDate="2020-06-03T20:23:33.770" Score="4" ViewCount="1315" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a standard or common size or sizes (width/depth/profile) for tracks in machine beds and jigs for fences, mitre gauges, feather boards etc? If there are a few common sizes, do they vary from Europe to the US? (I'm in the UK).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to make a little router table, and was considering buying some lengths of Aluminium extrusion to fit as a track for mitre gauges and/or fences, and also buying a mitre gauge to use in it. However I'm not confident when ordering the track that it will fit any accessories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking online, lots of mitre gauges are described as &quot;fitting standard mitre tracks&quot; but then don't specify how wide that track is. Tracks are easy to find on sites like ebay and Amazon, but come in several different sizes. In the UK &quot;19mm track&quot; is often advertised, which then is actually 19.3mm internal width which is (I think) a little over 3/4&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Axminster Craft&quot; mitre gauges say they fit a 13mm slot. And you regularly read about gauges from one machine or manufacturer not fitting the slot on another machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there isn't a standard size, how can I be sure that accessories will fit the track I fit when most online shops don't specify the size?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="155" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-06-04T14:54:21.443" LastActivityDate="2020-06-10T15:44:46.540" Title="Is there such a thing as a standard sized track for mitres/fences etc?" Tags="|jig|fence|miter-slot|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10695" CreationDate="2020-06-04T13:21:00.813" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just experienced this very situation recently. Here's what I learned about U-style slots. I did not fully research T-slots, which is a whole other world of non-standard standards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imperial sized U-slots come roughly in two flavours: 3/4&quot; and 5/8&quot;. The huge majority of after-market equipment out there, at least in the Americas, is one of those two sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of these two, 3/4&quot; seems to be the most common nowadays by a huge margin, with older equipment (in my experience) being the smaller dimension. This makes it hard to match after-market equipment to my table saw (5/8&quot;), but not my newer router table (3/4&quot;), for example. So, if you pick up older equipment at auctions and yard sales, it'll probably expect 5/8ths tracks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, there is no standard, other than the ad hoc standard of these two sizes, with 3/4&quot; by far more common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A note on dimensions&lt;/strong&gt;: U-slots are generally formed such they are &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; square. i.e., the cross-section dimension at the top will be smaller (by only a few thousandths) than the same dimension at &lt;em&gt;near&lt;/em&gt; the bottom. This is to facilitate clamping/locking mechanisms so that lateral force tends to pull tracks &lt;em&gt;down&lt;/em&gt; into the channel; that is, locking bars will wedge themselves in a bit. This is similar to how clamps and dogs can have surfaces offset a few degrees to keep work from squeezing out, or losing square as force is applied. U-slots also tend to have generous corner radiuses in the bottom to allow for free movement in the slot, and to allow room for locking mechanisms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;19mm is roughly 3/4 inch, and these slots are meant to be a bit sloppy, so perhaps the Euro sizes correspond to those, as well. 13mm is a &lt;em&gt;little&lt;/em&gt; sloppy for 5/8ths, but it might be close enough. I mean, it depends if they are talking about the slot or the track, and if the track is meant to slide or hold during use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for how you know what ones you need? Well, in my case I need both. You may only need one of those sizes. Take some calipers or approximate with a ruler or scale and see what you have on your equipment. Like I said, these sizes are meant to be nominal, so there can be a lot of slop. And, I cannot stress this enough: it depends on whether the track is for &lt;em&gt;locking&lt;/em&gt; or for &lt;em&gt;sliding&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A note on U-track purpose&lt;/strong&gt;: U-tracks have two purposes: you either want something to slide with a slight interference fit to act as a guide (e.g., a cross-cut sled, or mitre bar) or you want it to clamp and not move (e.g., finger-boards or other safety equipment). Sliding bars want a loose interference fit so things stay square. Locking bars can be a little looser because they have a locking mechanism (with a j-slot, or a cammed t-nut, or some other mechanism) that is intended to keep the bar from moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Milescraft after-market stuff that fits mitre slots often ship with both sized tracks. I was unable to source 5/8ths tracks anywhere but as a part of a kit from this company. They sell spare parts for their jigs and fences, so I am considering picking up more 5/8ths track from them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might just consider making wood tracks for some of your jigs and fences. I'm considering this for my own saw instead of buying them from that single source. This way I can keep the locking tracks on my fingerboards, and have a dedicated cross-cut sled that slides on hardwood tracks. Of course, this is yet another project one has to fit into the shop time they have...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-06-10T15:44:46.540" LastActivityDate="2020-06-10T15:44:46.540" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10697" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-04T17:36:56.947" Score="0" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've built a bookshelf that is basically just glued wood with notches cut in:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2sfo9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2sfo9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Closeup&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the vertical struts 50cm apart, this is ideal for just about anything: it nicely fits 40cm Euroboxes and 19 inch electronics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'd like to do the same again, but 60cm deep, and with a builtin desk. The desk should fit two monitors and a laptop, so it needs to be 2m wide, which will require me to leave out three vertical supports, or at least cut them back quite a bit. The desk should be at 30-35cm height, so I can sit on a cushion on the floor in front of it (the entire room is laid out with tatami, and so far I've been working on a 30cm high table, that seems to work fine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current idea would be to cut the vertical boards back to 10cm width inside the cutout, and add a small, 20cm deep, bookshelf above the space that is still recessed inside the nook, so the vertical boards would look like one of these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JOMdx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JOMdx.png&quot; alt=&quot;Plan for vertical board&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q7zTo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q7zTo.png&quot; alt=&quot;Other plan for vertical board&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is pretty much optimal for my storage and work needs, but I don't quite trust that it will be stable enough, because the overhang will not be able to carry a lot of weight and there is no vertical stabilization in the back -- basically the entire weight of each row is carried by the front part and needs to be transferred to the back where there is a continuous connection to the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I sensibly add horizontal supports below the bookshelf and the lowest full-length row, or will that just bend as well and not significantly take load off the weak points?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My idea here would be to fix a horizontal slat, possibly from some harder wood than the main construction, near the front to support the weak points, and anchor it on the sides (where there are no cutouts, just slots to slide in the horizontal shelves). Is that feasible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, this might need stronger attachment to the wall than the original shelves (which carry all the weight on their own and just need to be kept from folding up sideways or falling over). The wall this would be up against is a load-bearing brick wall. Should I add more anchor points near the top here, and basically expect that there will be more of a pulling instead of a shearing force (so longer pegs and screws), or is that useless?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it make sense to switch up the wood type here for more strength (the current ones are fir/spruce) or does that introduce other issues I'm not aware of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I waste a bit of space and leave 15-20cm remaining (basically, the monitors are 60cm wide, so the remaining bits on the vertical supports define how far back I can place them)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other ideas I might have overlooked?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8742" LastEditorUserId="8742" LastEditDate="2020-06-04T18:26:19.410" LastActivityDate="2020-06-04T18:26:19.410" Title="Bookshelf with cutout" Tags="|design|strength|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10698" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-04T18:34:41.310" Score="1" ViewCount="810" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working with Eastern White Pine. I have 12' slabs, approximately 2.5&quot; thick, with live edge and I am making a bar top. The final finish is planned to be clear epoxy. This is for a bar in an interior, above-grade, conditioned space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bar is &quot;L&quot;-shaped, approximately 11' long turning 90 degrees to a section approximately 3' long. This 3' return projects toward the barkeep - the patrons are on the long side. The bar top projects toward the patrons approximately 12&quot; from the front of the wall that supports the bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the design, the first thought for the turn was to do a mitered joint. A second thought was to perhaps do the turn with two mitered joints (with a section of live edge between the joints) to make the corner more &quot;curved.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This eventually led to a third thought: What if we put a cross-cut section of log/stump in the corner, with the adjoining slabs shaped around it. The idea is to have a large enough &quot;round&quot; piece that the &quot;point&quot; of the corner is the exposed live edge of the &quot;round&quot; piece. This would also provide visual interest as the end-grain of the round would show the rings of the tree, while the slabs would show grain (generally) running the length of the bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been unable to find any examples of this kind of design in my google searches. It might simply be that I am unaware of the proper terms to search. Or it could be that such a design looks stupid in practice, or is not practical to create. I see lots of tables that are cross sections of interesting trees. I see lots of tables and bars that are made from slabs. I cannot find examples the combine the two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this option a viable design?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8101" LastEditorUserId="8101" LastEditDate="2020-06-05T11:27:56.997" LastActivityDate="2020-06-05T11:27:56.997" Title="Bar top with live edge slabs and 90 degree turn with live edge &quot;round&quot; at the corner" Tags="|wood|design|live-edge|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10694" CreationDate="2020-06-04T19:43:25.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This answer, which I wrote before I saw the photos, addresses the issue of chipout of the flat tabletop but not about how to cut the top with the side apron if it is still attached to the top.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be possible with a circular saw and and a &lt;strong&gt;NEW blade with lots of teeth&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07P8CYF8K&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A 60 tooth finishing-quality blade&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want the teeth of the blade to plunge into the top veneer, this means you turn the table top over and cut from the bottom side. The bottom of the blade is rotating away from you so as it turns through the table top it is plunging &lt;strong&gt;UP&lt;/strong&gt; into the veneer, this should eliminate chipout on the front end of the cut. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To minimize chipping on the back end of the cut you need to  make sure the saw is tracking absolutely straight, this means using a straight edge. (&lt;em&gt;A track saw would be ideal.&lt;/em&gt;) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next best thing would be to make a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-VZ7RFm6RBw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;circular saw straight edge&lt;/a&gt; that is sized exactly for your saw. This gives you a solid edge for the your saw to ride against so it does not move side to side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ALSO&lt;/strong&gt; use painters tape on the bottom of the cut (the top of the table) for the length of the cut. This will add some insurance against chipping but it is still possible. After you make the cut slowly peel the tape off at a severe angle to the top, not straight up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to practice on a crappy old piece of table or laminate, maybe from a thrift store or on the free board of craigslist. &lt;strong&gt;Watch lots of YouTube for tips.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You still need to deal with the exposed edge left from the cut, There is edge banding or you could use a maple veneer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2917" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2020-06-05T11:03:25.563" LastActivityDate="2020-06-05T11:03:25.563" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10695" CreationDate="2020-06-05T11:23:25.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest purchasing the miter gauges you're interested in using. Getting manufactured miter gauges does seem to be the way to go, as they seem (to me, at least) to be the more difficult part to accurately make at home (especially if you want one with angles premarked).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have the gauges in hand, you can then measure the actual bar widths. You can then:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Return any that are &quot;odd-ball&quot; sizes (i.e. don't match the majority and don't warrant a &quot;special case&quot;) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Purchase U-channel to fit whatever you've kept. &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My impression of the UK (I'm in the US, so that's 99.99% from what I've seen on TV, forgive me) is that there are &lt;em&gt;plenty&lt;/em&gt; of small manufacturers so you should be able to find &lt;em&gt;someone&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;somewhere&lt;/em&gt; who will have U-channel in the exact size you need for the fit you're looking for.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As jdv noted in his fine answer, there should be a bit of slop in the fit between the bar and the channel, so you'd want to account for that when purchasing the channel. You might even be able to take a miter gauge with you to the shop to try it out on what they have in stock.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an added bonus, you can help confirm the info in jdv's answer that most of them &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; standard sizes, or, in disproving it, you can post your own answer indicating that's &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; the case and help inform the rest of us!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2020-06-05T11:23:25.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10701" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-05T13:49:04.313" Score="1" ViewCount="298" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have purchased an old butcher block that has extensive damage to the top. I want to flip the block over and plane the other side smooth to be the new top. The butcher block is constructed with the end-grain as the working surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am new to woodworking and wanting to buy a plane that will work well for this job and last me a lifetime. From my reading so far, I want a jack plane (like a Stanley #5). Is this right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for all the advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8746" LastEditorUserId="8746" LastEditDate="2020-06-12T16:04:49.607" LastActivityDate="2020-06-12T16:04:49.607" Title="What plane should I get for planing an antique end grain butcher block" Tags="|hand-planing|end-grain|cutting-board|butcher-block|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10704" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-07T03:40:53.017" Score="1" ViewCount="506" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to &quot;re-fresh&quot; a balance bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xcHZ3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xcHZ3.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://earlyrider.com/products/classic?variant=19541941452887&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;constructor&lt;/a&gt;, its laminated body is made of&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Simply superply™. Nothing but hand-picked, grade a veneers bonded with the finest marine ply &quot;WBP&quot; glue (water &amp;amp; boil proof) for maximum weather resistance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, five years of usage damaged it (some parts are worn out, and a bit of rust got where metal parts are in contact):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zFJbq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zFJbq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ae8zn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ae8zn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to sand and re-varnish (parts of?) it, but I'm not sure what kind of produce to use.&#xA;The varnish needs to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Protect the wood against all kind of exterior strains (dust, rain, shock, …),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not be toxic (the skin of a child will rub on it), and tolerate sweat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking to use &quot;Cabot Clear Wood Protector&quot;, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cabotstain.com/wservices/msds/asset/VALCAB/EN/US/MDgwMzUxODExNDMy/1591501058463.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;safety data sheet&lt;/a&gt; states, under the &quot;Potential acute health effects&quot; section,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Skin contact: No known significant effects or critical hazards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and it should be sturdy enough for outdoor use. But what do you think?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8751" LastEditorUserId="8751" LastEditDate="2020-06-07T17:26:19.630" LastActivityDate="2020-06-17T02:46:01.987" Title="Varnish in contact with skin for outdoor material" Tags="|safety|sanding|varnish|outdoor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10705" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-07T09:22:41.920" Score="0" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an antique cabinet that my grandfather built decades ago and I want to preserve it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think he has done anything to preserve the wood so I should probably do some work on it. I would like to know what species of wood it is made from (if it is easily distinguishable from the picture).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also like to know what can be done to take care of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6UFFw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6UFFw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/flPzw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/flPzw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8753" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-06-07T17:56:57.963" LastActivityDate="2020-06-09T18:07:16.040" Title="How to take care of an antique wood cabinet" Tags="|wood-repair|refinishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10704" CreationDate="2020-06-07T13:51:51.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could consider another option: don't refinish it at all. Depending on how damaged the existing finish it (you don't say or show) in most case light scuffs and dings are just part of the charm, and don't represent any problem with ability of the material to resist moisture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That veneer is very stable, with very good natural water resistance. On top of that, it was probably finished with some sort of decent outdoor spray polyurethane. So, unless it has been treated with complete disregard, it'll be fine as-is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You wouldn't want to leave this out in the elements permanently or seasonally, but the occasional ride through a sprinkler or being caught in the rain isn't going to harm it. But the assumption is that most of the time this bike is brought into a porch or garage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Outdoor furniture has to be refinished regularly because it is left to the tender mercies of 2-3 seasons of weather, and hundreds of hours of UV light exposure. Unless this bike has had the same treatment, it's probably fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That all being said, if you want to refinish these pieces with most finishes, including the penetrating finish you mention, you will have to remove all of the previous finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take everything apart.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mask or remove the hardware. Some of those bearing surfaces might be screwed in, or be a really tight interference fit. However you do it, you want to get these as clean as possible and maybe even remove the rust.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using an appropriate remover, remove all the old finish completely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repair the damage. This is not going to be easy, but you might have to get clever with epoxy and canoacrylate glue and clamping. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hand-sand to a smooth finish. The idea is to sand for comfort of the person using it, at least with the finish you have indicated you want to use. Penetrating finishes don't really require &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; surface prep, other than it being bare wood.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply, re-apply the finish as directed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, all those decals will be removed, and the hardware and fit might not be very tight. In some cases you might even have to rebuild up some wood &quot;bearing&quot; surfaces with epoxy or a wood insert that is machined back to nominal size. As mentioned before, you are going to have to make sure the metal bearing surfaces don't spin where held in wood, and are nominally the right size to meet each-other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A note on finishes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are pros and cons to using a penetrant finish vs. a sealing finish, like a harder exterior polyurethane (or varnish). The former is intended to be re-applied regularly, and is also intended to age and patina over time. A sealing finish will need to be refinished less often, and is intended to cure hard on the surface. Penetrating finishes need to be applied to clean, absolutely bare wood. Polys (and varnish type finishes) are slightly less fussy in this regard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the majority of the attention you will be spending on this project is removing the old finish, prepping the surface, and making sure the mechanical interfaces are nominal after years of use, exposure to the elements, finish removal, and surface prep. Try to stay away from the edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for toxicity, pretty much any finish, once cured, is essentially non-toxic and completely safe. With penetrant finishes you have to make sure it isn't the same stuff that they use in pressure treated lumber, but they usually say that on the label. Those tend to be oil solvent based, as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-06-08T19:54:48.817" LastActivityDate="2020-06-08T19:54:48.817" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10707" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11515" CreationDate="2020-06-07T17:17:38.310" Score="3" ViewCount="253" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm replacing the baseboard, having laid new flooring, and am coping the inside corners. However, I'm finding I tend to break that very thin &quot;point&quot; on the top - either while cutting it, or when fitting to the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9oiFy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9oiFy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I just cut it off square? And if so, do I still back cut right to the top as that would show up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8754" LastActivityDate="2021-02-12T16:11:23.797" Title="When coping baseboard do I cut the top edge square?" Tags="|technique|cutting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="17" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10708" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-07T18:22:21.497" Score="0" ViewCount="183" Body="&lt;p&gt;Forgive me if I'm missing something but I do not see why you should have to fully submerge the wood to reach maximum penetration of the resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell, when in a vacuum chamber, air is pulled from between the structure in the wood and is replaced with the resin and that's great. However, if the wood was left floating in the resin (say half way) surely the vacuum would work more efficiently at removing the air in the part of the wood currently not surrounded by liquid. If this was the case, would the capillary action of the wood not draw the liquid into the centre of the wood more effectively?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surely, if submerged in resin, once the first few millimeters of wood is saturated, it would take a greater force to remove the remaining air out from the deepest part of the wood as it would need to be pulled through the rest of the liquid whicg is exerting a greater pressure on the remaining air. My though is that if the wood was simply floating in the resin when the vacuum is initiated, once the piece below the liquid is saturated, the capiliarry action of the wood would draw the liquid up the rest of the wood more evenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way I will definitely be testing my thoughts on a piece of wood shortly but I would be interested to hear your thoughts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8755" LastActivityDate="2020-06-07T18:22:21.497" Title="Stabilising wood with Cactus Juice.... Hear me out!" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10710" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-08T04:53:20.547" Score="0" ViewCount="4082" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have prepared a 7.5 ft x 2.5 ft piece of monkeypod wood that is approximately 2 inches thick. It will serve as a computer desk. The heaviest object on it will be my desktop tower (~25-30 lbs). You can see pictures below of the wood and the legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I decide where to place the legs? Ideally, they would be at the very ends because that gives the most leg room underneath. But I don't want the table to sag in the middle or eventually break over time. Should I move the legs in from the edges and if so by how much?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XOtPT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XOtPT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Monkey pod desk top&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xplyW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xplyW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Legs&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8758" LastActivityDate="2020-06-08T04:53:20.547" Title="How to decide upon leg placement" Tags="|furniture|strength|table-making|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10712" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-08T18:00:24.710" Score="1" ViewCount="153" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two old solid wood dressers covered with two different veneers. One, I think, is &quot;zebra stripe.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I stripped a dark stain off of them. Since I wanted a lighter wood color, I experimented with bleaching them with oxalic acid. It worked well. I don't want to stain them, just topcoat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I see some blotchiness, (I'm assuming from the bleaching technique?) I'd like to even out. I'm wondering what would help. Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8759" LastEditorUserId="8759" LastEditDate="2020-06-09T13:29:37.003" LastActivityDate="2020-06-09T13:29:37.003" Title="How to deal with blotchiness on wood veneers" Tags="|veneer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10705" CreationDate="2020-06-08T18:39:36.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it was me, I'd dunk it in some paint stripper (or brush the stripper on) to rid it of that green color&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt; then repaint it to match the room I was going to put it in. My Mother-in-Law would hang me for that, though, as she &lt;em&gt;loves&lt;/em&gt; green of all shades, so that may not be your course of action. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not going to strip it, a good dish-soap and water scrubbing may be all this needs to make it look as good as the day your gramps finished it. Use a &lt;em&gt;sponge&lt;/em&gt; not a scrub pad unless there's a particularly stubborn area - the Scotch-Bright™ type scrub pads are likely to take the paint off, particularly if it's thin in places. &lt;strong&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt; you're not doing the dishes here - you don't need to &lt;em&gt;soak&lt;/em&gt; down the wood, just get some warm, slightly soapy water, dunk the sponge, squeeze most of the water out, and gently rub the cabinet to get the gunk off. When it's clean, repeat with clear water to get rid of the soap, and pat it dry with paper towel or a shop towel, then let it sit out to dry. Soaking the wood is bad, lightly moistening it to lift the accumulated cruft is just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, unless the &quot;catch&quot; piece of wood above the right-hand door is the way Grandpa originally built the cabinet, I'd consider replacing that with a magnetic catch on the inside, just to clean up the look a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've refurbished it to your desired state, dust it regularly, give it a gentle soap and water bath as necessary, try not to knock into it with heavy, pointy things, and pass it along to the next generation when the time comes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt;As noted by jdv in the comments, do be aware that there may be lead in that paint if it was applied before 1970 (or so) in the US. It was roughly that time-frame when lead was banned from paint. If you use a &lt;em&gt;chemical&lt;/em&gt; paint stripper, you shouldn't have to be particularly concerned about it - the lead will remain in the liquid/gel and be disposed of when you throw it out. If you use a mechanical method (sanding, scraping) to remove the paint, you'll kick some/a lot of it in the air (especially sanding) and make small particles. These are the ones that are dangerous, so some common sense precautions are applicable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2020-06-09T18:07:16.040" LastActivityDate="2020-06-09T18:07:16.040" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10701" CreationDate="2020-06-11T15:50:44.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Technicaly, you would be able to do it with a good smoothing plane with very tight mouth and really sharp blade - low angle plane could help (but only if the real cutting angle was lower than on &quot;normal&quot; plane - which it often isn't - because of bevel up blade).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as was pointed out in comments (which I think should really be answers), sanding may be much easier option and I would recommend that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide for hand-planing - sharpening (again, as was pointed out in the comments) is really essential - almost every new plane blade needs sharpening no matter if it's new or used (some new low-quality plane blades will in fact need &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; sharpening than well maintained used ones). And sharpening is very, very complex issue, and mastering it may take a long time. I would suggest just searching &quot;how to sharpen plane&quot; on youtube - there are many ways, and it's up to you to find out what will work for you - so just go and watch some - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=plane+sharpening&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=plane+sharpening&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8416" LastActivityDate="2020-06-11T15:50:44.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10719" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10737" CreationDate="2020-06-11T21:59:30.377" Score="1" ViewCount="302" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in an apartment in a big city and have no access to proper outdoor space or a shop, but I want to build a simple, big table as easily as possible. My plan is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.5&quot; x 3 ft. x 8 ft. Baltic birch counter top: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/p/Allwood-6-4-in-x-3-ft-x-8-ft-Baltic-Birch-Project-Panel-EGB-6-4x36x96/207122109&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.homedepot.com/p/Allwood-6-4-in-x-3-ft-x-8-ft-Baltic-Birch-Project-Panel-EGB-6-4x36x96/207122109&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;28&quot; tall by 20&quot; wide metal legs with cross bracing: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.etsy.com/listing/588713252/2-pack-2-wide-14-thick-metal-size-range&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.etsy.com/listing/588713252/2-pack-2-wide-14-thick-metal-size-range&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy a drill and screw the legs to the table top.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I don't know if my idea will be sturdy enough. I have the space and really want at least a 7 ft. table. Are these legs good enough? Will the table bow in the middle? Where should I put the legs? In general, what are the rules of thumb for building a solid table? My fear is ordering all the parts, putting it together, and realizing it wobbles or sags in the middle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8772" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-06-12T19:16:07.743" LastActivityDate="2020-06-16T21:45:38.497" Title="Design: how to assess table sturdiness?" Tags="|design|table-making|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10527" CreationDate="2020-06-13T08:18:46.830" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This gathers up some comments and my own experience so the question doesn't stay unanswered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seasoning is unpredictable, but for small pieces can be forced.  In the end I microwaved in short bursts until the pieces stopped losing weight. They got about 20% lighter.  The first 30s burst caused a lot of localised hissing so I switched to 20s bursts whenever I was passing the microwave.  The ends were sealed with BLO and didn't split, though I got a small crack at a knot on the side.  In comparison the adjacent piece of that tree left outside has split almost half way through in a few weeks (it's a silly shape for woodworking so I just left it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was a little warping, but nothing I couldn't take out by planing the inside faces, even though I'd shaped it a bit too much when green.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I glued the scales but didn't pin them and they seem secure after several uses, including heavier ones than I'd expected (loaves of bread as well as pizzas).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2020-06-13T08:18:46.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8517" CreationDate="2020-06-14T23:03:34.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The jig you want for this looks like this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7P76K.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7P76K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a set screw on the end not shown on the picture to set the thickness of the saw blade (done once when you make the jig). When using the jig you just clamp&#xA;around the piece that you want to cut a groove for and that's it for setup. No calculations, just using the jig's two different lengths as end stops for the inner/outer cuts and then rip away the waste in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a build description on this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3x3custom.com/tutorials/how-to-make-perfect-dados-grooves-and-half-laps&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;web page&lt;/a&gt; and a corresponding &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SOTqqSEtvng&amp;amp;t=314&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="529" LastActivityDate="2020-06-14T23:03:34.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10725" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-15T08:12:10.837" Score="2" ViewCount="249" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased this monkeypod piece a couple weeks ago. It is 7.5 ft x 2.5 ft x 2 inches thick. It is composed of two pieces glued together. My plan was to use it as a desktop but I’ve noticed since I purchased it, one end has warped slightly. This makes it very difficult to put legs on the way that I planned. Before I finish the tabletop or continue with putting legs on, is there any way to flatten this out? In the pictures below, the wood is sitting on my old ikea desk I am replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZXaev.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZXaev.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;warp from side&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rufSZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rufSZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fromt view &quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EyKVw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EyKVw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;side view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6RSvd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6RSvd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;low&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dFg7V.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dFg7V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;with ruler&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8758" LastActivityDate="2020-06-15T18:44:01.063" Title="Warped Monkeypod Desktop" Tags="|wood|tabletop|table-making|warp|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10725" CreationDate="2020-06-15T12:19:50.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beautiful piece! It must have cost quite some money. Despite being dead, harvested, and turned into lumber, trees still retain the ability to take on and release water. Fighting its natural desire to do this is difficult and can put the wood under some stress which can exacerbate the problem or lead to damage like cracking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to flatten it? Yes. With a good sized &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/How-Make-a-Flattening-Jig-for-a-Router/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;router flattening jig&lt;/a&gt; and the right bit or a series of hand planes, some physical dexterity, and a lot of patience you could flatten it. But when the moisture in the room decreases or increases again, you’ll be in the same boat (maybe an actual boat due to the amount it might curve if you’re not careful). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With something like this, I’d recommend two or three bars of C channel on the bottom, routed into the piece. This &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.johnmalecki.com/post/how-to-build-an-industrial-wood-slab-coffee-table-in-one-day&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; has some information on how to go about that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A strip of C channel is just a bar of steel that’s a double angle bracket with holes down it. You route the depth of the C channel into the slab and then it gets bolted in. You’ll need a flat surface to do this though which means at least one side will need to get flattened first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be honest, and I hate to say it, you might consider ripping three even strips, flattening each individual strip, then edge join them back together, and then adding the C channel. Maybe some others have some answers for you though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3486" LastActivityDate="2020-06-15T12:19:50.293" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10727" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-15T15:56:29.150" Score="1" ViewCount="654" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to paint a red oak commission piece and the client asked about a &quot;white wash&quot; type finish instead of purely opaque white paint such that the grain shows through. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if there are thinners that can be added to regular latex white paint to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3142" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-06-16T11:23:00.130" LastActivityDate="2021-01-10T21:00:40.053" Title="DIY &quot;white wash&quot; from thinning latex interior paint?" Tags="|finishing|paint|oak|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10725" CreationDate="2020-06-15T18:44:01.063" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard for me to tell by the picture, but it looks to me like it's not so much warped wood as the splined joint between the component planks isn't true. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's the case, you might rip that joint out, ensure that the edges are square, and re-join the planks into a truly flat panel. I think I'd try that before planing the whole thing down thinner to make up for a botched panel joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastActivityDate="2020-06-15T18:44:01.063" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10727" CreationDate="2020-06-16T11:21:24.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do what you want by merely thinning white wall paint with water&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. It's not a perfect way to do this&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; but it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the adhesion of the diluted paint may end up highly compromised, and additionally the coating is very thin, so in general it would be extremely easy to wear through or damage a finish such as this in other ways. Merely dragging the unglazed ring on the underside of a coffee mug over the surface may leave visible wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a clear topcoat (waterbased poly should work well) would be highly desirable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option uses the same clear finish but as part of your starting point. In effect you make a white-tinted waterbased poly. Mixing different brands could work here. But for safety, to ensure chemical compatibility, it would be best to use two products from the same range — you could for example mix the General Finishes white poly into one of their clear waterbased polyurethanes, to make a cloudy clear finish or a weak white finish depending on how you want to look at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Because you're working with oak, and because you'll be painting on a very watery mixture, it may be advisable to use distilled water for the thinning instead of tap water. Your tap water may contain enough dissolved iron to cause dark staining in the red oak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; The ideal method to thin paint for this sort of thing would involve diluting with more carrier, not just more water. But there's no simple recommendation for that sort of thing. An artists' acrylic paint range such as Golden's have numerous products to pick from, but these are not generally made to provide high wear resistance, just to use as bonding agents or 'medium'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T16:02:19.403" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T16:02:19.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10612" CreationDate="2020-06-16T16:02:38.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having followed my own advice in a comment on &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/10613/93&quot;&gt;Aloysius' answer&lt;/a&gt;, I did a DuckDuckGo search for &quot;home made track saw&quot; (or something similar) and came up with a 90-second video (on the tube of you) from Tom Silva of &lt;em&gt;This Old House&lt;/em&gt; fame showing how to make a very simple track saw from scrap plywood. (This was only one of hundreds of videos &amp;amp; written instructions I found, choose your favorite.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not having a lot of scrap plywood laying around, I bought a sheet of 3/8&quot; ply, carefully ripped 2 strips about &quot;yay&quot; wide each off the long edge (super wife is an &lt;em&gt;excellent&lt;/em&gt; assistant in-feed table/material guide) on my father-in-law's table saw, then took the pieces home. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I glued the two 4&quot; strips to the plywood and &quot;clamped&quot; it with a pile of lumber over night. In the morning, I ran my circular saw along each edge of each glued strip, once with the wide side of the sole plate next to the attached strip, once with the narrow side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This gave me 2 8' long track saws. I cut one into a 5' and 3' section. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite these being made of some rather wavy plywood (can you &lt;em&gt;get&lt;/em&gt; 3/8&quot; ply that isn't warped in some fashion?), they worked &lt;em&gt;extremely&lt;/em&gt; well for all the rip- and cross-cuts I needed in sheet goods for the shed I just built. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;at only 3/8&quot; thick, the act of clamping each end down on my cut marks bent the track straight to meet the flat sheet I was cutting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using the track saw makes for effortless, nearly brain-dead straight cuts at any angle across the sheet without having to focus on a chalk/pencil line&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This was exceedingly handy since my saw seems designed to throw as much waste as possible toward the user's face when focusing on that cut line.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can stretch to the other side of a 4' sheet and still have a straight line&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't have to draw/snap a line all the way across the sheet, 2 simple marks is all that's necessary.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a very fast to build, incredibly simple and easy to use jig that I wish I'd had 20 years ago!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2020-06-16T16:02:38.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10733" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10740" CreationDate="2020-06-16T17:44:07.337" Score="0" ViewCount="320" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning on building built-in bookshelves that would span the length of a wall.  Each unit would consist of a cabinet base ~2' across with a set of bookshelves mounted on top. The depth of the cabinets would be ~2' and the depth of each bookshelf would be ~12&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plan is to construct the cabinet and bookshelf carcasses out of 3/4&quot; plywood, then add hardwood face frames to each unit. 1/4&quot; (or 3/8&quot;) rabbets would be cut for each shelf. Also, the cabinet and bookshelf would have plywood backings mounted, probably 1/2&quot;.  Everything would then be mounted to the wall and each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the strength of the plywood enough to hold up the weight of the bookshelves + books without bowing?  I would like to avoid it, but should I go with additional upright 2x4s between each unit for added support?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a0NG1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a0NG1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8789" LastActivityDate="2020-07-17T18:01:30.133" Title="Strength of plywood walls for built-in bookshelves" Tags="|furniture|plywood|strength|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3703" CreationDate="2020-06-16T19:37:42.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I realize that this is an old question, but it's worth a new look. The description of the Melissa table has changed, and as of now it says in part:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each top is crafted from reclaimed antique pine or walnut. It's planed and then &#xA;  joined together using tongue and groove joinery to make a solid 1 1/2&quot; thick top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it may be that the previous construction method didn't work out too well. Maybe they had failures due to wood movement, or maybe building a table with a plywood core cost more in labor than it saved in material. If you look closely at the photos, you can see the tongue and groove joinery:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SihEN.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SihEN.png&quot; alt=&quot;joinery&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tongue and groove joints probably make sense for factory production since the joinery automatically keeps the boards aligned. If you want to build one of these at home, plain edge joints would be fine, and you could add (gasp!) biscuits to help with alignment if you want. Tongue and groove joinery isn't hard to do, but unless you have a shaper it's probably more trouble than it's worth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2020-06-16T19:37:42.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10735" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10736" CreationDate="2020-06-16T20:45:00.477" Score="3" ViewCount="55" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just purchased a 1.5 HP vortex cone dust collector (with a canister) and was vacuuming sawdust up from the floor. Small chunks of the crumbling concrete were in the mix and made a racket going through the impeller. Is this bad for the machine or just noisy? This is my first dust collector (!!!) and I want to be sure I am treating it right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8791" LastActivityDate="2020-06-16T21:25:48.417" Title="Are small garage floor concrete chunks bad for my new dust collector?" Tags="|dust-collection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10735" CreationDate="2020-06-16T21:25:48.417" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have the typical vortex dust collector, the material being pulled through the hose should enter the cone and be separated from the air stream prior to it reaching the impeller of the vacuum system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an add-on unit to my shop vac and when heavier material is vacuumed up, there's a good bit of noise through the hose and as the material streams around the cone on the way to the canister. The previously transparent cone is now mostly translucent, due to the scratches from the harder material being spun around the perimeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your device does not operate in this manner, check the assembly instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2020-06-16T21:25:48.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10719" CreationDate="2020-06-16T21:45:38.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I had my heart set on using the 3'x 8' birch top from Home Depot and the steel legs from Etsy, I would get two sets of legs and mount them at right angles to each other as shown in the drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5abPs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5abPs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have placed the legs as near the ends as possible, but you could place them any distance apart, depending on your aesthetic desires.  Of course they should be placed symmetrically and nearer to the table ends than to the table center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This table will be stable in any direction, and will not sag under its own weight, but, of course, this does not mean that its capacity is unlimited. If a two-hundred-pounder were to decide to sit in the middle of table, a sag could be noted by a critical eye, but it would not be in danger of breaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:31:50.443" LastActivityDate="2020-06-16T21:45:38.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10738" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-17T00:37:36.737" Score="1" ViewCount="392" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wanting to make a wine bottle rack where the bottle lays sideways. I've got an image of what I'm after but there would only be one groove and it would  be larger to accommodate 2 bottles laid in it - approximately 70cm long. The groove can indent the whole length of the wood or start shallow then deeper as in the photo, either way is ok. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm making two versions: one pine, one oak. I haven't figured out how to create the bottle groove consistently so that it looks more professional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have heavy machinery like a lathe, but do have a router, drill, sander and Dremel. I don't have specialised woodworking hand tools but will buy one if that's the best solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone out there have any advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DLNMj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DLNMj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8793" LastEditorUserId="8793" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T06:22:14.190" LastActivityDate="2020-06-18T09:02:49.103" Title="Bottle shaped indent" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10704" CreationDate="2020-06-17T02:46:01.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks a lot to jdv and Graphus for they precious answer / comments. I thought I would post as an answer a description of what I've done, in case somebody faces the same issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Take everything apart,&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clean with soapy water, &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Apply a mix of 1/2 vinegar, 1/2 water, to the parts that were rusted, let rest 10 minutes and scrub lightly,  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wikihow.com/Remove-Rust-Stains-from-Wood&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;following this advice&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Scrub with steel wool,&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lightly sanding with fine paper, not removing all of the previous finish, but easing the damaged parts,&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Applied one coat of &quot;Cabot Clear Wood Protector&quot; uniformly,&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Let rest ~24 hours,&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Re-assemble.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm only at step 7, I'll probably post pictures once I'm done. I'm not completely satisfied with the rendering, but that should do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8751" LastActivityDate="2020-06-17T02:46:01.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10733" CreationDate="2020-06-17T17:59:00.470" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just put 3/4&quot; plywood down as the &lt;em&gt;floor&lt;/em&gt; for my new shed. Granted, it's on 16&quot; OC joists, not a 24&quot; span, but I expect the shelving that will be going in there to be &lt;em&gt;significantly&lt;/em&gt; heavier than any 2 foot shelf of books could be and I'm not worried about the strength of the plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2020-06-17T17:59:00.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10680" CreationDate="2020-06-18T16:00:00.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First and foremost, please note this warning from the manual:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fitting of other purpose or different sized blades will void the warranty.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Needless to say, you are doing this at your own risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the above out of the way, I have run all the tests that I needed: the blade is fixed and has no play (which suggests that the harbour nut is fully threaded as suggested by jdv). The saw has no riving knife so that is not an issue. It does have an anti-kickback mechanism which is a mechanical lock on the plate-rail connection so it still works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my tests, the kerf that the new blade leaves behind is 1.7mm along the whole cut (checked with a caliper). The harbour seems perfectly locked in place, there is no vibration and the cuts are straight and square. I must say it seems a weird limitation but I guess it is just that they did QA with a limited set of blades and they don't want to take responsibility over use outwith range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been using the saw with the thinner blade for a while now and it performs beautifully, leaving straight clean cuts every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7964" LastActivityDate="2020-06-18T16:00:00.540" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10743" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10744" CreationDate="2020-06-18T20:10:31.327" Score="1" ViewCount="314" Body="&lt;p&gt;what is the best process to create MDF with linoleum on one side, veneer on the other and edge banding? The result should look like this. Mine doesn't come close and I am unsure about the best approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RQuoG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RQuoG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My initial idea was to apply the veneer and linoleum to a 8x4' sheet, cut it to size, apply the edge banding and use a trim router with a flush trim bit on the edge bending. However, the edge banding ends up covering the linoleum on the side. Second idea was to apply the veneer, cut the sheet to size, apply the edge banding and finally the linoleum. However, when I use a router to trim the linoleum, it always damages the edges. Below is a pic (tried this without edge banding to see how the trimming goes). I also tried a slightly angles trim but for laminate with better results but still problematic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions for the order of steps you would take? Or particular tools and material to ease the process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SMyeE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SMyeE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8741" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-06-22T06:37:51.807" LastActivityDate="2020-06-22T14:40:05.327" Title="What is the best process to create a laminated panel with MDF core, linoleum &amp; veneer faces, and edge banding?" Tags="|wood|mdf|veneer|edge-banding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10743" CreationDate="2020-06-18T21:42:33.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would use the order in your last technique you described but with these details :&lt;br/&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut the MDF to shape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply the banding to the edge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use flush cut router to trim the banding to thickness of the MDF&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply veneer to the one side of MDF&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use flush cut to trim veneer to match the edges – Do not round yet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply linoleum on the other side of MDF&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use flush cut bit to trim linoleum to match the edges – use enough pressure to be able to do the trimming.  Do not use a lot of force when pressing the router against the edge to trip.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the flush rounding cove bit with light pressure to just cut the corners of the edges.  Make multiple light passes vs hard pressure to do it in one pass.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use fine sandpaper to finish the edges.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don’t try and trim the linoleum and round the edges at the same time. Use light pressure when trimming and rounding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A closer examination of the linoleum trimming shows that the trim cut is good.  What is happening is that the base material of the linoleum is overheating and melting on to MDF. The cut itself is good.  You need a cleaner to rub off the material off the suface of the edge.  Also try using a lower speed on the router, the high speed of the router bit rubbing against the rubberlike base is melting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YytqU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YytqU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8556" LastEditorUserId="8556" LastEditDate="2020-06-22T14:40:05.327" LastActivityDate="2020-06-22T14:40:05.327" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10745" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10748" CreationDate="2020-06-19T00:10:03.027" Score="3" ViewCount="1384" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never made anything out of wood before. This is all new to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to build a computer desk table top. My goal is to just make the table top right now and then purchase some electric legs that move up and down. I have some wood that I was given from a building that was torn down. I believe it is oak. There are several holes in it from where it was nailed down before, so I want to cut it up into several pieces, effectively removing the holes, and then glue them all back together in a nice pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am concerned about the load capacity. I want to make sure it is strong enough to hold 300 lbs. I have easily 150 lbs of computer that I want to set on it, and I expect I will lean on it plenty, so it needs to be pretty strong. However, since the pieces will all be glued together, I'm afraid of the joints coming apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I calculate the maximum load capacity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bellow I have include a simple diagram of my design. It will have several 9.5&amp;quot; squares at 45deg surrounded by a 2&amp;quot; border. The result will be 71.175 x 30.87 x 1 inches. For added strength, I want to rabbet the joints between all of the squares, but probably not the 2&amp;quot; border. I think a centered 1/4&amp;quot; thick 1/4&amp;quot; long rabbet on every joining edge should work. I'm not certain I'm using &amp;quot;rabbet&amp;quot; correctly, so I will describe it in another way. Basically, I want to router off the top and bottom of one edge so that there is a piece along the whole side that is 1/4&amp;quot; thick and sticks out a 1/4&amp;quot;, and then on the board it will connect to I will cut a 1/4&amp;quot; groove to match so they connect together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JjEBS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JjEBS.png&quot; alt=&quot;Basic draft of table top design&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8798" LastActivityDate="2020-06-22T18:22:23.873" Title="Will my table top hold 300 lbs?" Tags="|tabletop|weight-capacity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10745" CreationDate="2020-06-19T13:31:01.127" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think what you're proposing will turn into a very attractive tabletop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The joint you're describing is a tongue-and-groove joint (don't worry about mis-describing it as a rabbet joint; I'm very sure that a couple of years ago I made similar mistakes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Truthfully, I don't know how to calculate the load bearing capacity of those joints. What you might try doing with some scrap material is create a &amp;quot;test coupon&amp;quot; that has the same joint with the same material and apply weight to it until it cracks or tears. Alternatively, build the table's underframe with beams that the tabletop will rest on (kind of like how a floor is built) that will bear the weight instead of relying on only the strength of the joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure you've already done this, but in the interest of safety I'll say it anyway: make double-sure that you've removed all nails before cutting into the wood. Visually inspect it and also use something that will respond to a hidden nail, such as a strong magnet or metal detector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8743" LastActivityDate="2020-06-19T13:31:01.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10747" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-19T14:35:30.540" Score="-1" ViewCount="184" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was talking with a relative who is an EMT. I asked them what thing I should have in my first aid kit that wouldn't be obvious to me (or that would not come in a typical store-bought first aid kit). Their answer was immediate: A tourniquet. &amp;quot;Everything else we can help with, but you &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; to stop the bleeding until we get there.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the less commonly discussed must-haves in your woodshop first-aid kit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8791" LastActivityDate="2021-03-17T18:07:10.697" Title="What are the less commonly discussed must-haves in your woodshop first-aid kit?" Tags="|safety|shop|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10745" CreationDate="2020-06-19T18:36:24.523" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You haven't shown the leg arrangements, so a more immediate problem might be racking forces. That is, depending on how the legs are attached and arranged, a ~300lb. weight on the top may cause the entire table to swing like a pendulum and maybe even fold up where the legs meet the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it is my guess that, even at a nominal 1-inch thick, this table will eventually sag. Even if it doesn't, it might fall apart because of seasonal movement or flexing anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those joints are not going to be as strong as a nicely glued plank edge, even if you really sweat the details when gluing up and clamping. Expecting tongue and groove to support a span is unfair, as this is not what that joint is good at. Much of the gluing surface is missing, and in most cases there are going to be lots of voids where the tongue and groove doesn't quite mate for PVA glue to work its magic. And half those joints are going to be and grain on at least one of the pieces, which makes for a weaker joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it probably won't fall apart immediately, but I bet it'll keep flexing until some of the joints start to open up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that, &lt;em&gt;traditionally&lt;/em&gt;, tongue and groove surfaces were never intended to be glued anyway. They are a way to mate surfaces so they stay put, but still allow for seasonal movement. At most, you might blind-nail the edges together in a few places just to keep the joint tight to the material below it. If you glue these joints, the top might just pull itself apart by next year (depending on where you live.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice would be to design a sturdy table using quality plywood (or solid wood, though plywood is hard to beat for its mass-to-strength ratio) then covering that with your solid wood &amp;quot;marquetry&amp;quot;. Your edging will then hide that construction detail along with the raw edges of plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Care would have to be take to make sure it is stiff enough for the static loads, and that the leg arrangement resists swaying when presented with racking forces. Sometimes you can combine leg attachments so that they offer both extra table stiffness along with racking strength. This is why I suggest you visit the previous Q&amp;amp;A on table design to get some ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to forego the plywood idea, I advise you experiment. Make a smaller version of your joinery top and see how it flexes under weight. Work tables useful for piling computers and equipment on top need to be able to hold up a medium sized person without cracking or flexing; you &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; be able to stand on it and not feel like it is going to fold up, or without hearing any ominous cracking sounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More specifically in your case, look at your design. Imagine your 300lb. static load right in the middle, at the joint where four pieces meet. These four joints are going to involve end-grain, and some of those joints the wood is going to want to move perpendicular to the grain (which often amounts to the same thing). My estimation of the failure mode is a crack starting at that corner, and then zig-zagging through any other of the joints to another point, where the stress pattern repeats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you lay flooring or bricks or wood siding, one of the important rules is to not have matching joints. That is, if you rotate your table top 45 degrees you'll see you have (essentially) 1x3 rectangles that your are combining to make a slab, but you are joining those 1x3 sections such that the joints are all &lt;em&gt;along the same line&lt;/em&gt;. You are not using the strong glue joints to support the weaker wood joints. Thinking about the construction as a series of 1x3 sections you join together staggering the joints would go a long way toward getting an ideal slab strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We haven't even talked about material yet! You don't mention what sort of wood you want to use, or how well it is seasoned. But 10-inch squares are going to move, and they will move perpendicular to the grain. So, even if you carefully prep the mating surfaces and clamp ideally, after some time you might find that the top starts to buckle or crack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you used &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; stable and seasoned wood, &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; you carefully matched the grain so you minimized additive movement, &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; you glued up the top in sections ideally, staggering the joints, it might still move with seasonal changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, don't just focus on the top of a table build. Success relies on you getting a full idea of how static forces are handled through the top and transferred to the floor, but also how everyday use introduces dynamic forces that operate on completely different axes. The whole table needs to be designed to work together to give you the adequate strength in all these directions you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In conclusion, I don't want to suggest you give up the whole thing as a bad idea. I will point out that this is a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; challenging project for the novice woodworker because you really have to know your material and your techniques.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2020-06-22T18:22:23.873" LastActivityDate="2020-06-22T18:22:23.873" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10750" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-20T00:57:10.587" Score="5" ViewCount="2312" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Fixed-Corded-Router-with-Table-Included/1000318615&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kobalt router and router table combo&lt;/a&gt; from Lowe's.  Since I am new to using a router, I thought this would be a good place to start.  When I started using it to made some rails and stiles, everything worked great, but now there is an issue with the depth adjustment and I am not sure how to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a hex wrench that you can drop into a hole on the table that lines up with the depth adjustment screw so you can raise and lower the bit.  When I turn it to lower, it goes down smoothly, but when I turn it to raise, there is a lot of resistance, and when you get a quarter turn done, it skips, then falls down more than it was raised.  Does that mean the router or the housing is defective, or is there something that I can adjust to get it to work again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tAQi8xUiD3o&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a video&lt;/a&gt; if the description I gave isn't doing it for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8800" LastActivityDate="2022-01-14T03:26:54.150" Title="Kobalt Router Depth Adjustment Skips" Tags="|router|router-table|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10750" CreationDate="2020-06-20T13:54:46.787" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are gears that the adjustment carriage rides on, and you have loosened things too much and the gears aren't properly engaged, and they are slipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the entire mass of the router is riding on these gears it is typical with routers mounted upside-down like this that you have to support the body of the router by hand when adjusting up. And the adjustment isn't quite a binary locked/unlocked arrangement. I suspect you have to back off the lock enough to allow free movement of the gears, but not so loose that they skip teeth. Some routers have a positive lock that you engage &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; you've adjusted the depth with or without an adjustable gear arrangement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, note that there is a different between coarse and fine adjustment. You would adjust your coarse depth to a &amp;quot;0&amp;quot;, and then use the fine adjustment to get your final depth. I suspect the coarse adjustment is the one that needs that sweet spot between locked and loose enough to turn without skipping gear teeth. Check your owner's manual to be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-06-20T16:49:54.677" LastActivityDate="2020-06-20T16:49:54.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10747" CreationDate="2020-06-20T17:03:33.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Butterfly bandages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finger cots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Splints. (&lt;em&gt;you can use those table legs you have been saving&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gauze, lots of clean gauze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The aforementioned tourniquet and a&#xA;Ziploc bag full of ice cubes. (&lt;em&gt;to put your severed finger in while transporting it to the emergency room.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2917" LastActivityDate="2020-06-20T17:03:33.230" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10753" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-21T14:41:02.470" Score="3" ViewCount="266" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was reading &amp;quot;Illustrated Cabinetmaking&amp;quot; and came across this: &amp;quot;Where a horizontal board tops an upright, the biscuits should be offset&amp;quot;.  It does not explain why.  Does anyone know?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next sentence says:  &amp;quot;Likewise, biscuits used in joining a shelf to an upright should be located below center to increase the shelf's resistance to toploading&amp;quot;.  Does anyone know what toploading is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the illustration in the book for both of the above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0L9HP.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0L9HP.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8805" LastActivityDate="2021-03-04T15:57:10.940" Title="Why offset biscuits" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10753" CreationDate="2020-06-21T16:41:29.177" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never encountered any rules of thumb about using biscuits, but the diagram makes sense. In the top connection the biscuit will transfer stress resulting from any side to side movement of the cabinet.  All that stress is resisted by the small width of the remaining shelf between the biscuit and the outside edge to the left of it. The more wood there the better. Similarly, any weight placed on the lower shelf can only be resisted by the shelf wood above the biscuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;of course, both connection details could be improved by creating a rabbet joint at the top and inserting the lower shelf into a dado in the vertical member.  In this way the entire thickness of the board is being used to address the stresses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2020-06-21T16:41:29.177" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10755" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10761" CreationDate="2020-06-23T19:28:20.707" Score="0" ViewCount="1513" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I've had this desk for a few years now, and I just bought a cable tray that needs to be screwed in. It would go under the desk&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Desk: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wayfair.ca/furniture/pdp/upper-square-kosmas-writing-desk-c001698673.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.wayfair.ca/furniture/pdp/upper-square-kosmas-writing-desk-c001698673.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Top material described as: &amp;quot;Particle board, hollow-core, laminate, and MDF&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Top thickness: a little under 2&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tray: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.autonomous.ai/office-accessories/cable-tray&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.autonomous.ai/office-accessories/cable-tray&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tray weight: 4lbs (I will only put cables on it, no adapters so the extra weight should be negligible)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Screws for the tray: M6x12 Screws (4)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My fear is that the tray won't hold if I screw it in, or that it could damage/rip the desk top seeing that the top has a hollow core&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8809" LastActivityDate="2020-06-25T16:16:55.570" Title="Can I screw in my cable tray into this desk?" Tags="|wood|screws|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10755" CreationDate="2020-06-24T02:29:18.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Screwing the tray on the bottom flush with the back edge should not be a problem.  Moving the tray away from the back edge toward the forward would become problematic depending where the hollow-core begins.  Normally the edges are good for an inch or 1-1/2 in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't expect to mount it down the middle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8556" LastActivityDate="2020-06-24T02:29:18.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10757" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10758" CreationDate="2020-06-24T10:44:02.547" Score="3" ViewCount="5199" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been looking at many websites for woodworking and while I have been an advocate for &amp;quot;proper&amp;quot; woodworking as my late father who was a bench-joiner professed, I have seen many profess that pocket hole screwed furniture is just as strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was initially asked by my step-daughter and her partner to build a terrarium for them and whilst I was costing up the wood needed they decided to just buy an off-the-shelf one at a reptile store. Looking at it I was disgusted with the fact that despite the price they paid which was high in my mind, although mitred fine, there was not one joint in the work. It was all screwed together with unsightly exposed screw heads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not only do the pocket holes and exposed screws look unsightly, but I have always been taught by my father that proper glued jointing (mortise and tenon, box or dovetail joints etc.) is far superior in strength to metal fixings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I even saw on a Facebook group a question asking what screws are best for cabinetry and I was amazed to find people responding as though it is a good question. My father would be turning in his grave.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have I been taught an old-fashioned idea which has been disproved or was my father correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering these shops are able to sell these products which I feel are shoddily made at extortionate prices, am I wasting my time with proper joints when I can knock something together in a fraction of the time using screws?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2509" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-06-24T22:52:37.607" LastActivityDate="2020-07-06T20:49:24.870" Title="Screws vs. Pocket Holes vs. Traditional Joinery" Tags="|furniture|cabinetry|joints|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10757" CreationDate="2020-06-24T14:41:51.107" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good, fast, or cheap. Choose any two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Factory methods like pocket holes, screws, and even finger-joints are good enough for mass market construction without having to hire journeymen carpenters. This is how furniture can be made as cheaply as it is. This is just a fact of modern globalism. This is the only way to offer furniture to a global market at scale for the prices you see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The item price you are seeing has more to do with the cost of fuel to send it in a container ship from the factory and truck it to the warehouse and then to the showroom. Then, it is the showroom labour and fixed costs like electricity and rent that drive the rest of the cost. Even if this showroom had it marked up to some ridiculous amount, just wait a few months (or go to another showroom) and discounts of well over 75% can be expected. The material and labour is not the major cost here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that the only way to send this stuff around the world cheaply is if you can minimize mass and (more importantly) volume. I assure you that this furniture was assembled by the store, or someone working for the store. And the only way to allow for that effectively and cheaply is to use screw-and-dowel construction or something similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this stuff was made with more traditional joinery and mostly solid wood of any decent variety I guarantee you that the cost would be much, much higher. Because trained expertise, commercial labour, and good materials are &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; expensive. And if you have to buy diesel fuel by the tonne you start to notice small costs in mass and volume at scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are ways to minimize the look of pocket screw construction to some degree, but it is always a trade-off. It's fine for factories and weekend warriors who want to build with sheet-goods. Glue and pocket-hole construction with some careful prep before finishing is perfectly fine in most cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The decision you have to make is whether or not you want to trade your time for money to make your own furniture. You have to decide what sort of material costs you want to spend, and how much time you have to complete the project. As hobbyists, we often disregard our labour because we aren't in it for the money. But this is also why it isn't easy to directly compare traditional woodworking and global factory techniques.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or why, if you asked a local woodworker to make a similar piece out of solid wood and good veneer using more traditional joinery, even their &lt;em&gt;cheapest&lt;/em&gt; price would make your eyes water because their labour isn't cheap (nor should it be). You &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be able to find one of those local factories, where they hire semi-retired craftspeople so most of your cost is the material (we have one of those in my area). But you will wait a month or so for delivery, you will pay for delivery, and you will &lt;em&gt;probably&lt;/em&gt; get decent, but not great, fit and finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ugly big box flatpack furniture &lt;em&gt;today&lt;/em&gt; has real value to other people in your household when compared with a half-finished beautiful home-built project that is still in the shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-06-24T15:04:11.733" LastActivityDate="2020-06-24T15:04:11.733" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10757" CreationDate="2020-06-25T04:02:15.023" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the economic factors @jdv mentioned, there's been a change in social norms over the last few decades: People now move &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; frequently compared to the past, and those moves are often far away. Some of my furniture is clearly designed to be cleanly disassembled and can then be packed compactly for moving. Woodwork that is assembled using permanent joinery, on the other hand, is a single piece, which may be heavy, unwieldy, and an obstacle to packing. The legs of grand pianos are always attached with screws for precisely this reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3314" LastActivityDate="2020-06-25T04:02:15.023" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10757" CreationDate="2020-06-25T15:43:43.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that there is a huge 'it depends' in the question.  The dependence is based upon 4 things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The nature of forces on the joint (lateral vs. compression vs. expansion)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Time Expectation - The willingness of both you and the 'customer' (whoever it is) to  pay for your time. (even if its a spouse, your time in the garage and not with them is worth something).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Visibility of the joint&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quality Expectation - is the furniture piece going to a showroom for 'Fine Woodworking' Or is going to be used to hold paint cans in the garage?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I know that a joint will receive 'lateral' pressure (its going to be working side to side), then the pocket hole jig is no good.  Its probably worth the time to try and mortise the traditional way.  (I even do tenons on fence gates, which see a variety of forces).  When properly sanded, I do not feel that pocket holes are too 'unsightly' and in most joints they can be easily hidden when planned correctly (against a wall, at the back,etc).  For those few that are not, there is a jig to make 'pocket hole inserts' out of hardwood to plug the holes.  So unless it really bothers you or your customer, a tradeoff of 'time' may be worth something 'unsightly' - especially if its inside a closed cabinet, filled with 'stuff'.  Consider that every mortise joint will take several hours - the same time it takes to assemble an entire cabinet with pocket-hole jig assembly.  (or maybe I'm just no good at tenons and mortising).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;jdv is correct in his answer - in every way - I have a PhD in manufacturing engineering (and 30 years as a cabinetmaker/luthier/handyman). Some of what I have said adds very little other than re-enforcing their answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be honest, I normally use pocket holes for better 'alignment' and ensuring glue joints stay together than I do for any structural purpose.  I would never use a pocket-hole joint as a structural component alone - expecting disassembly.  I would argue that the strength of a tenon or dovetail joint is very dependent upon the wood species in question.  Metal and aliphatic glue or epoxy are nearly always more structurally sound than wood (exceptions might be ironwood, ebony, oak, ash, etc).  Your wood is always the 'weakest link' in the chain.  Without an adhesive, though, your father is correct - the worst joint is dry wood held together by exposed screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: By request - the ELI5 version of the last paragraph.  A few definitions: &amp;quot;Aliphatic glue&amp;quot; - yellow glue (Titebond, Elmers wood glue).  &amp;quot;Epoxy&amp;quot; - a 2 part clear glue that gets mixed (J.B. Weld or some Gorilla glues).  If I know there will be alot of pressure on a joint (like a rocking chair, or a table, something that holds the weight of a human or &amp;gt; 100 lbs) then I would never use pocket hole joints.  Those joints can wiggle and come apart because the stress comes from all directions - not just 1).  However, for assembling a cabinet front (which will only need to hold the weight of a door, and humans cannot sit on it..), pocket holes are ideal - they can be easily hidden inside the cabinet, and provide more strength than just 'yellow glue'.  The screws for the pocket hole with a clamp allow you to attach 2 pieces of wood the same thickness very easily without that slight 'movement' from putting in the screw.  When you put in a screw, the wood wants to rotate with the screw and throw off the alignment.  Then you have to sand the difference in the edges.    Regarding stresses - GLUE is always stronger than WOOD once it hardens.  Picking 'heavier' types of hardwood (oak, ash) like the ones above make for better projects that will experience heavier stress and constant use.  Softer wood like pine or fake woods ('whitewood', particle board, MDF) are not the best choice for structural projects without a good design (ever seen an MDF rocking chair?  Nope - it wouldn't survive a human sitting on it). You also rarely see &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mortise_and_tenon&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tenons&lt;/a&gt; used in pine, balsa, and lighter soft woods for furniture because they aren't very good for high stress projects (pine drawers do not survive a generation). If you put a screw in these woods.. you better leave it there, because once you take it out, its so soft, it will be loose the next time you try to install it and probably wiggle out again.  Anybody who has disassembled anything from Ikea knows what I'm talking about in that regard.  So if you try to make a project out of pine with just screws and no glue, be prepared for it to end in tears or lots of bad words.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8823" LastEditorUserId="8823" LastEditDate="2020-07-06T20:49:24.870" LastActivityDate="2020-07-06T20:49:24.870" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10755" CreationDate="2020-06-25T16:16:55.570" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; be able to use those machine screws to attach the tray directly to the desk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would either have to drill holes and insert a T-nut with a matching M6x12 thread, or you would need to replace the machine screws with an appropriate length x thickness wood screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your concern about it ripping out if you mount it into the hollow-core section is absolutely spot on. You would, as &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/10756/93&quot;&gt;Programmer66 said&lt;/a&gt; need to mount it along the back edge of the desktop where the solid wood (well, MDF) is located. To determine where the MDF ends, knock on the edge of the desk and listen to the sound, move in an inch or so and knock again, listening to the sound. Continue moving in until the sound changes - it should sound &amp;quot;hollow&amp;quot;, or at least &amp;quot;different&amp;quot;, somewhere toward the middle than it does at the edge. It &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; most likely that the solid filling takes up 1 1/2&amp;quot; in from the desk edge at most.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2020-06-25T16:16:55.570" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10762" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-26T12:44:42.167" Score="2" ViewCount="852" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to make a all-wood floor to ceiling cat tree,which looks like this or so&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v78wn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v78wn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here comes the problem&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The commercial ones use pine to make the base and pads, but the pillar is often made of paper or a pvc tube&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And they use a single threaded insert to connect them together like this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lmNQJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lmNQJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When i use a wood pillar (maybe birch, or pine, its cheap and easy to get here)&#xA;this method may not work well because the end grain dont hold threaded insert well&#xA;and wood is much heavier than a pvc tube so a single threaded insert might have problems in strength&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I come up with some ideas&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, use dovetail to turn the endgrain into long grain&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/71moB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/71moB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(sorry i just made a mistake and the dovetail is drawn upsidedown)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or Secondly, dont cut the pillar into short parts, keep it long and solid and use dados to hold the pads&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lx1jG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lx1jG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is there any better joints for this work? Thanks a lot&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;(Notice, its important to make it detachable. )&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestion or comment is welcomed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8828" LastEditorUserId="8828" LastEditDate="2020-06-27T10:46:50.243" LastActivityDate="2020-06-27T10:46:50.243" Title="Good joints for a floor to ceiling cat tree?" Tags="|design|joints|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10762" CreationDate="2020-06-26T14:30:27.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a 3/8&amp;quot; or a M10 or so threaded insert.  Epoxy it into the ends (don't rely on the threads of the insert).  For the top piece, bore a hole down the center for some threaded rod, and then epoxy a nut in the end.  This will allow you to tighten it against the ceiling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it is true that inserts set into end grain aren't as strong as they are into cross grain, if they are epoxied in, and the pieces are screwed together firmly so there is no lateral play, they will be plenty strong enough for your application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2020-06-26T14:30:27.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10762" CreationDate="2020-06-26T14:46:10.913" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ones you may have been looking at with the threaded rod and insert must have small threaded rods for connecting the pieces together.  A threaded rod and inserts can be quite strong.  Use at 1/4&amp;quot; or greater diameter rod and it should be strong enough.  There is nothing wrong with having the end grain for the inserts for this projects.  See my markup of your design.  Just cut the rod into 3-4&amp;quot; long rod and hand screw the parts together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lKKWm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lKKWm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8556" LastEditorUserId="8556" LastEditDate="2020-06-26T16:12:40.557" LastActivityDate="2020-06-26T16:12:40.557" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10463" CreationDate="2020-06-26T15:03:50.437" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wood ID questions are off-topic, but in this case we seem to have made an exception. I think it is clear from your very good picture that this is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; ostrichwood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't say where you are in the world, but given the grain structure this looks like emuwood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Provide a picture of the end-grain so we can be sure, or just take a look at a quarter-sawn end: ostrichwood has two &amp;quot;toes&amp;quot; running down the grain, whereas emuwood has three.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2020-06-26T15:03:50.437" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4982" CreationDate="2020-06-27T17:59:22.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a stonemason's 'sinking square' - used to determine depths of mouldings, carvings, etc. on a piece of worked stone. Mills Bros were manufacturers of mason's tools, being situated in Wandwsorth Road, South London, an area which was the centre of the capital's stone working industry until the 1970s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8834" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-06-28T18:18:08.443" LastActivityDate="2020-06-28T18:18:08.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10767" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-27T19:30:56.950" Score="0" ViewCount="820" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are already 2 questions on here that deal with this but they both deal with this at large/massive scale:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5855/smooth-tree-trunk-cross-section&quot;&gt;Smooth tree trunk cross section&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4775/flattening-the-face-of-a-board-without-using-a-jointer&quot;&gt;Flattening the face of a board without using a jointer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to smooth a tiny cross section (6 inches wide) of a mesquite tree to make a coaster and the solutions discussed in those questions are way too over the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I've tried a cordless sander (Ridgid R86064B) with 80 grit paper but haven't made much progress. I also tried using a plane but because of the circular grain and the small size wasn't able to get that to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rsaRK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rsaRK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4559" LastActivityDate="2020-08-04T01:06:10.523" Title="How do I smooth a cross section of a tree?" Tags="|sanding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10768" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-27T20:45:56.193" Score="4" ViewCount="2424" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm finding that a lot of debris is falling onto the thread of my vice and sticking to the grease that's on there to lubricate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What techniques are there to keep either (1) keep this from happening or (2) to easily clean this after each use given the consideration that it needs to remain lubricated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vice is an Eclipse EWWQR9 if that matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xKhsA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xKhsA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4559" LastActivityDate="2020-07-20T12:55:37.900" Title="How to keep the thread of a vice clean?" Tags="|tool-maintenance|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10770" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-28T06:12:41.433" Score="1" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm watching a YouTube video about making an armchair, and at the &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/-vSrJ3ekMHA?t=87&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;01:27&lt;/a&gt; mark they show this metal bits that looks like short hollow nails with tiny throwingstars for a head. They're hammered into the wood and seem to provide threads for screws to fasten into. The shape of their heads seems to be meant to allow further reinforcement using nails or other screws. What are they called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lPBVI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lPBVI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The shape of the thing.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8593" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-06-29T07:14:15.683" LastActivityDate="2020-06-29T07:14:15.683" Title="What is this part shown in this video?" Tags="|fasteners|hardware-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10770" CreationDate="2020-06-28T17:33:27.610" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is called a  &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/T-nut&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tnut&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FXKHv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FXKHv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffsb&amp;amp;q=Tnut&amp;amp;ia=web&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tnut search&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is similar to a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Threaded_insert&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;threaded insert&lt;/a&gt; but it is pressed into the wood and has little points that  grab the wood and  keeps it from rotating when you thread a bolt into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A threaded insert as threads on the outside and is threaded into the wood like a screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yv28q.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yv28q.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2917" LastActivityDate="2020-06-28T17:33:27.610" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10772" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10773" CreationDate="2020-06-28T18:23:37.553" Score="0" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm watching this video as a guide on how to build my new desk tabletop: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=USx0Pc6grZ0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=USx0Pc6grZ0&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm very new to woodworking and have a question about structural integrity:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the breadboards described in the video necessary if I am making the tabletop from maple wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8839" LastEditorUserId="8839" LastEditDate="2020-06-29T22:06:13.537" LastActivityDate="2020-06-29T22:06:13.537" Title="Wood type and size for a tabletop" Tags="|wood-selection|table-making|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10772" CreationDate="2020-06-28T21:22:05.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to go for a natural, light look so can I use maple wood without&#xA;a stain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can use any wood you want without stain, there is no rule that says you need to stain wood. The finish you choose can effect the color to some degree so testing on some scrap is a good idea. Every type of wood has unique characteristics, i can not list them all here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the two side pieces necessary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The breadboards do serve a function, while you could technically get away with not using them ( &lt;em&gt;because of the pocket hole joinery of the other boards&lt;/em&gt; ) they tie all of the ends of the other boards together. If you did not tie them together then each board could/would twist and/or warp, resulting in the end of your table being uneven and wonky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/joinery/breadboard-ends-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;breadboards&lt;/a&gt; done with pocket hole joinery are not really accomplishing the &lt;strong&gt;structural integrity&lt;/strong&gt; that breadboards are designed to provide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What type of wood should I use? Home depot calls the 2x4 Maple pieces&#xA;&amp;quot;studs&amp;quot;, which sounds more like structural wood. Will that be okay for&#xA;a desk?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can choose any kind of wood you like based on your own criteria &lt;strong&gt;I.E.&lt;/strong&gt; color, grain, hardness, stability etc. Make that decision base on your own &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;research&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;. Maple is an &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;excellent choice&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, it is used for butcher block worktops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does need to be thick enough to be stable for the dimensions you choose. You may want to go to a dedicated lumber supplier instead of a home improvement center where the selection is limited.  ( &lt;em&gt;i would be shocked if the Home dumpo has 2x4 Maple&lt;/em&gt; )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2917" LastEditorUserId="2917" LastEditDate="2020-06-28T21:35:11.077" LastActivityDate="2020-06-28T21:35:11.077" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10774" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-29T18:21:29.200" Score="-2" ViewCount="549" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a cupboard unit using melamine faced MDF. The joints will be made using wood dowels. My question is do I use glue as well and if so which sort?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8846" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2020-06-30T15:48:54.560" LastActivityDate="2020-06-30T15:48:54.560" Title="Do I need to glue doweled joints in MDF?" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10774" CreationDate="2020-06-29T19:36:59.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes- use a good wood glue such as any of the Titebond line or Gorilla wood glue.  All are of sufficient holding power for your dowel joints.  The MDF will give away before the joint breaks apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8556" LastActivityDate="2020-06-29T19:36:59.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10777" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10778" CreationDate="2020-06-29T23:54:43.653" Score="0" ViewCount="609" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to build a desk tabletop with the surface being maple, but 8/4 maple was quite expensive so I'm opting for half the thickness. However, this narrows down the options for joining the boards to make the surface. &lt;strong&gt;What method should I use to join these 3/4 wood boards?&lt;/strong&gt; Is 3/4 thick enough for pocket hole joining to be practical? Preferably the technique should not involve specialized machines or tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8839" LastActivityDate="2020-06-30T12:54:02.563" Title="Joinery method for 3/4 Hardwood" Tags="|joinery|tabletop|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10777" CreationDate="2020-06-30T12:54:02.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest joining 3/4 maple planks into a table top exactly the same way you'd join 8/4 maple planks. Cut the edges nice and square, joint them to ensure they're 100% flat, then glue them up and apply every clamp you (and everyone in your neighborhood) own. Some gluing cauls will help to ensure it stays nice and flat while you're clamping and the glue is setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A jointer would make squaring the edges easier, but this would likely fall into &amp;quot;specialized tools&amp;quot;, so you can do it with a jointer's plane. Of course, that may be considered &amp;quot;specialized&amp;quot;, too, so you'll have to draw the line somewhere on what's &amp;quot;specialized&amp;quot; vs &amp;quot;how nice do you want your table top to be&amp;quot;. If you don't get those edges really square, your glue-up won't be flat, then you'll have to sand or plane it flat and will end up with a less than 3/4&amp;quot; thick surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't use pocket screws for any of it (even though I just picked up a pocket screw jig a couple of months ago).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2020-06-30T12:54:02.563" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10779" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-01T00:49:35.593" Score="0" ViewCount="545" Body="&lt;p&gt;About a month ago, I had a black walnut tree felled in my back yard (downtown Lansing, Michigan).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tree had to come down for many reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;juglone from the roots was poisoning the neighbors' yards as well as my own;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the walnuts were a safety hazard in autumn (at least one dog seriously injured);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the tree hosted venomous caterpillars;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;at least one neighbor was severely allergic to the pollen.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did not want the wood go to waste, so I had it sectioned for milling, and my original purpose was to create stair treads and risers (4 floors, basement to attic) as well as some hardwood flooring in a grand stairwell of my 1911 American Foursquare. I used a metal detector probe on the entire length of the tree, and found a single drywall screw, which I removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two of the arborists that I got estimates from (for felling the tree) wanted more than $2,500 to bring it down, but only if they could take the timber. Ultimately, I found an arborist that brought the tree down for $1,500 and was willing to section and leave the timber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After it was felled, I learned that the value of this wood (33&amp;quot; diameter at stump; 28&amp;quot; at 8'; 26&amp;quot; at 16', containing 1,250 board feet) could be worth between $10,000 and $15,000 if milled to veneer. I have two 9'6&amp;quot; butt logs at 28&amp;quot;+ an 8'6&amp;quot; butt log at 26&amp;quot; and six 8' branches that are 10&amp;quot; to 12&amp;quot;. Counting the rings, the tree was much younger than I expected (40 to 50 years, so dating from 1970-1980; only of note because I received a lot of &amp;quot;don't do it, its been there for over 100 years&amp;quot; comments).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some considerations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't know if I'm doing the math right on the board feet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm not certain how to price veneer vs. lumber.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't know how to determine whether 10&amp;quot; logs are suitable for veneer or lumber.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm having a hard time valuing this timber, and I don't want to make a mistake. I feel that I have two choices:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mill the timber for the stairwell to add a unique feature to the house;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sell the timber for veneer to fund other home improvements.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already sold 1.5 cord of the walnut for firewood for $150 (from branches less than 6&amp;quot; diameter), which was probably half of what it was worth. This whole experience has left me feeling like anyone dealing in wood is a scam artist, and I don't want to make a bad choice with the timber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't a &amp;quot;what should I do&amp;quot; question, but rather a &amp;quot;help me value this&amp;quot; question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to quantify the board feet and quality of the logs (veneer vs. lumber) before I make my decision on whether to sell or mill the logs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/maBe2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/maBe2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Black Walnut from several angles&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cs3Pz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cs3Pz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sectioned logs from top end&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LOVcn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LOVcn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;diameter at stump&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarize:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I calculate board feet from these logs?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How can I determine veneer quality vs. lumber for individual logs?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="777" LastEditorUserId="777" LastEditDate="2020-07-01T01:32:14.900" LastActivityDate="2020-07-01T01:32:14.900" Title="Black Walnut logs - comparing value as a unique feature in home vs. cash" Tags="|lumber|hardwood|veneer|milling|making-lumber|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10780" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12821" CreationDate="2020-07-01T13:50:23.193" Score="2" ViewCount="1111" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any problems that may arise due to mixing softwood and hardwood in making a glued up panel work piece?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made this test panel last night with scrap pine and hardwood salvaged from a piece of hardwood I found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KuLd4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KuLd4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;pine and hardwood panel&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I may use it as drawer front in our cottage bunk house, which is in an environment that may be hard on it. Unheated in very cold dry winters. Very humid periods in summer and about 50 ft from ocean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More info...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;this panel is 39&amp;quot; long&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1/2&amp;quot; thick&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lighter wood strips are knotty pine 1&amp;quot; wide (but no visible knots in these strips)..&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hardwood is oak, and they are 1/2&amp;quot; wide strips&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8854" LastEditorUserId="8854" LastEditDate="2020-07-02T11:30:46.367" LastActivityDate="2021-05-13T15:22:24.077" Title="Implications of gluing a panel made of hard and soft woods" Tags="|wood-movement|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10781" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10782" CreationDate="2020-07-01T19:10:27.327" Score="0" ViewCount="343" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just purchased a Ryobi 7 1/4 circular saw. Model CSB125. I am attaching the saw blade and I can’t remember which way to put the spring washer back on. It is beveled, shaped like an umbrella. The washer is part #49 in this diagram. Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ereplacementparts.com/ryobi-csb125-csb125-714in-circular-saw-parts-c-7931_7969_507775.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.ereplacementparts.com/ryobi-csb125-csb125-714in-circular-saw-parts-c-7931_7969_507775.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8855" LastActivityDate="2020-07-01T19:52:33.873" Title="Which way does spring washer go on the Ryobi circular saw" Tags="|circular-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10781" CreationDate="2020-07-01T19:52:33.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bottom/wide part of the spring washer #49 would go against the outer washer #27.  The blade screw #28 presses against the crown of #49 creating a locking pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8556" LastActivityDate="2020-07-01T19:52:33.873" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10784" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-02T01:53:38.257" Score="0" ViewCount="376" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have hundreds of 1/4&amp;quot; x 1/4&amp;quot; strips of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to stain these a rainbow of different colors. Each strip would be stained a single solid color. Then glue the strips together. Literally, making a rainbow from the different strips of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, no matter how tight and smooth I clamp them together, there is going to be minute edges where the different strips join together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How could I sand them after the stain is on (which I assume is not the right plan of attack)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, how could I clamp them together in such a way so that they are extremely smooth without sanding?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this makes sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8857" LastActivityDate="2020-07-02T11:34:04.807" Title="Glueing Together Thin Strips of Already Stained Wood" Tags="|joinery|staining|sanding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10785" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-02T02:03:31.630" Score="0" ViewCount="165" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any concerns about using 2-3'' hardwood edge banding on MDF? The reason for using 2-3'' would be to create a finger pull like the one in the picture. The maximum size of the doors would be about 72'' by 24''. So the largest piece of hardwood edge banding would be 2-3'' by 72'' (and narrower on the other side because the handle is only required on one side). The joint will be reinforced with dominos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At what point does wood movement become a problem with hardwood edge banding?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k7DYM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k7DYM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ng &quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8741" LastEditorUserId="8741" LastEditDate="2020-07-03T00:53:12.373" LastActivityDate="2020-07-03T00:53:12.373" Title="2-3'' inch hardwood edge banding for finger pull?" Tags="|edge-banding|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10784" CreationDate="2020-07-02T11:34:04.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd presume that you want fairly vibrant colors and you're talking reds and greens and blues, not 17 shades of oak or maple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have hundreds, you say, so I'd suggest that you sacrifice a couple for test strips. Cut a few small pieces, and let them soak in a tub of the stain for an hour or two. The goal being to get the stain to deeply penetrate, not just the normal 0.3mm penetration (approximate) that you'd get from a normal brush-on or wipe-on application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once they've soaked for a while, pull them out &amp;amp; let them drip dry. Once you've got them dry enough to handle, slice into the strips with a knife or start sanding on an edge to see how much color penetration you've got. That will tell you how much variation you can sand off of your final assembly. This will also be a good test to see how you like the colors and what it'll take to get there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It'll probably take a couple of days (maybe weeks?) to get the wood back to &amp;quot;dry&amp;quot; lumber that you'll want to work with for your glue-up. You may want to invest in a moisture meter to know when they're back to an acceptable state for wood working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a neat project and I'd love to see the final result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2020-07-02T11:34:04.807" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10787" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-03T16:13:26.633" Score="-1" ViewCount="243" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently finished a pine table with 100% polymerized linseed oil (Tried and True), however would like to retain the natural feel of the wood while protecting it more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally looking for something that maintains the natural feel of the wood as much as possible while also protecting it more than linseed oil does alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coasters will not be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8863" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-07-10T12:16:00.417" LastActivityDate="2020-12-07T14:01:50.187" Title="Additional layer of protection over polymerized linseed oil that maintains feel" Tags="|finishing|water-protection|physical-protection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10767" CreationDate="2020-07-03T19:49:29.827" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A planer would work. I took a night school woodshop class in the local high school to use their very nice planer .I ran 4 pieces of 4 X 4 -8ft rough sawn oak through it . Then a 1 X 16  - 8 ft oak board ; it had beautiful burl , from a local small hardwood lumber yard. Lucky it was only one board because it was so loud I think I wore out my welcome .&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Point is there is likely a planer you somehow get to do the job.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If it is 6&amp;quot; in diameter ,a 6&amp;quot; joiner should handle it .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3966" LastEditorUserId="3966" LastEditDate="2020-07-05T00:55:02.127" LastActivityDate="2020-07-05T00:55:02.127" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10789" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10792" CreationDate="2020-07-04T15:23:27.040" Score="1" ViewCount="4995" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m building a counter top and I had to join two pieces of boards with some glue in between. The countertop looks pretty okay, but the joint is very obvious and when I clean it with a bit a water, it jumps straight in your eyes. I’m planning to add epoxy on it, which will make it very obvious. The wood has some pattern therefore it is a bit hard to make it fit, so I added a filler, but this did not solve the problem. I’m thinking that it might be useful to artificially add a know there, since that’s the pattern, but I don’t know how to do that or even if it is a good idea. I really need some advice to solve this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is how the joint looks, with the patterns around&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pwVb4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pwVb4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M6kDi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M6kDi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8663" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T12:47:36.743" Title="How to make a joint between two pieces of wood look good?" Tags="|joinery|technique|furniture|knots|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10790" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11012" CreationDate="2020-07-04T22:43:45.207" Score="3" ViewCount="1165" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7ecF8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7ecF8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;overview of joint&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am fixing a bench and came across the above mortise and tenon joint between the foot and the vertical support (2 actually, one on each support).  Quite clearly, someone has messed with this joint in the past cutting down the tenon so that it is about 1-1/4” too short on its length and 1/2” too short on its depth (they also added a screw into the end grain of the tenon, presumably because the joint wasn’t strong enough after they cut down the tenon).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, I have to fix this in putting the bench back together, but I’m not sure if I should approach it as adding to the tenon or filling the mortise to make them match.  Which is the better option, or is there some other way that I haven’t thought of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GivoH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GivoH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;mortise&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JE6Bi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JE6Bi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;depth of mortise &quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YYj2m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YYj2m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;depth of tenon&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit in response to comment asking about tenon thickness:&lt;/strong&gt; The thickness of one tenon is what I’ve always thought is perfect: dry assembly requires no persuasion, the joint holds together by friction alone against gravity, and yet can be shaken apart with one good shake.  The other tenon is 3 sheets of copy paper shy of that point (i.e., by placing three sheets of paper alongside the tenon I can get to the same degree of tightness).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8864" LastEditorUserId="8864" LastEditDate="2020-07-06T20:48:56.870" LastActivityDate="2020-09-14T00:36:55.513" Title="How to fix this mortise and tenon joint" Tags="|joinery|wood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10791" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11338" CreationDate="2020-07-05T10:00:08.500" Score="1" ViewCount="2737" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to woodworking and know very little, so apologies if this is an extremely basic question or I'm doing something completely wrong. Recently I've tried to sand away a few imperfections on a Snakewood pen blank I bought, using 220 grit sandpaper initially and following up with 600 grit. So far so good and I was able to remove the imperfections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However then when my wood dried there was a chalky white residue on it. I've attached pictures to demonstrate, the blank on the right is the sanded one and on the left I have another snakewood pen blank which the sanded one looked like initially. I'm not sure what initial finish was applied to the blank on the left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what this residue is but I would guess it is a mixed slurry of silicon carbide from the sandpaper and the wood the sanding shaved off. This is aesthetically quite displeasing so I tried getting rid of it. When I wet the blank it looks normal again but the white residue reappears as it dries, so I guess it is stuck in the grain of the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I've looked up this issue on the internet and the recommendations range from washing down with a microfibre cloth (no effect), sanding further with different grits (no effect) to oiling the wood with mineral oil (again it looks OK when oiled but the white residue reappears as the oil gets absorbed) to using turpentine to get rid of the residue (again no effect, it reappears when the blank dries).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also had this issue before when sanding wood, especially when I'm only sanding part of the piece: when wet everything looks good but upon drying a white residue forms over the sanded area that is near impossible to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know concretely what this residue is and what is the best way to get rid of it? Thanks in advance for all your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6rCMz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6rCMzm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B2u3p.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B2u3pm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;(click to enlarge images)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8865" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2020-07-05T14:28:37.497" LastActivityDate="2020-12-17T15:23:24.860" Title="Unremovable white powdery residue after wet sanding wood" Tags="|sanding|wood-repair|refinishing|hardwood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10789" CreationDate="2020-07-05T23:52:29.110" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A butt joint is  is not very strong and is likely to break if any wood movement occurs.  There are many other ways to handle joints like this that will improve their integrity and diminish their appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The simple butt joint such as in your photo could be improved first by making sure that the pieces meet square throughout the cross section  or better yet, providing a slight bevel with the pieces being longer on the top and a 32nd less long at the bottom. If the pieces are forced together the top grain will fully meet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Better yet the connection should have a lap joint such that the two sides are held by a fully glued lap of 1&amp;quot; or more.  IF properly prepared with square corners the two pieces can be finessed to fully contact.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The individual boards do not have to meet in one line.  IF you stagger the pieces the joint appearance will not be as obvious.  Think of wood flooring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can emphasize the joint by providing a contrasting wood piece at the intersection running perpendicular to the counter top.  While wood expands and contracts differently in width and length the overall joint length is too small to be a problem.  Making a contrasting wood as a design feature may require you to make more than one such joint to provide some design symmetry. Such a feature piece would have a spline connection to the end grain pieces on both sides.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2020-07-05T23:52:29.110" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10793" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-06T12:33:22.657" Score="0" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will start this question with an apology if it's not a good way to ask for what I am looking for (woodworking recycling).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I try to find a way to recycle used furniture, based on the level of treatment (decorative painting, protection painting etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there a way to know how much treatment was applied to a piece of furniture?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Except for the visual details or the smell of the wood, which will give you a sense of treatment, but you can't be sure how toxic it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a bit of research, I know that some pieces of wood, based on the level of preservation, can be reused for furniture (cut to other shapes, refinishing), but some other pieces can only be recycled (if it isn't treated) or burned to be used for heating/fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8122" LastActivityDate="2020-08-05T20:01:35.143" Title="Recycling wood based on the level of treatment" Tags="|refinishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10794" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-06T14:21:16.610" Score="1" ViewCount="733" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a Norwegian pine shed some years ago and after painting with a water based paint the knots seeped through in significant sized globules which are sticky and problematic to remove.Is there a “solvent” available to overcome this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8870" LastActivityDate="2020-07-06T19:03:49.723" Title="How do I remove globules of knot resin from my pine shed" Tags="|knots|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10795" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-06T15:44:10.827" Score="0" ViewCount="100" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased some lumber from a third party which included a large walnut slab that had previously been stained on one side (I don't know what it was). I wanted to turn it into a few cutting boards, so I cut it into pieces and passed them through my planer on both sides until it was flat and all stain was gone. Is safe to use as a cutting board, assuming I am going to oil it with mineral oil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8871" LastActivityDate="2020-07-06T15:44:10.827" Title="Cutting board from previously stained wood" Tags="|staining|safety|cutting-board|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10794" CreationDate="2020-07-06T19:03:49.723" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You needed to seal the knots prior to painting. No matter what you do, it will continue to bleed through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the paint around the knots. Use solvent such as turpentine to remove the sap with a scraper and rags. Seal the knots with an appropriate knot sealer (available at any paint store). Prime the sealed knots, perhaps twice. Repaint the whole surface to even out the coverage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes water based primer-sealers are acceptable as &amp;quot;knot sealer&amp;quot;; ask at the paint store or read the label. If this is the case, then the sealing and priming would be the same step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2020-07-06T19:03:49.723" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10793" CreationDate="2020-07-06T19:26:51.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that woodworkers like to recycle material, I &lt;em&gt;suppose&lt;/em&gt; this is on-topic. I'll let the community decide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key here is what is reusable, and what is not. At least for the weekend woodworker. A secondary concern is what to do with scrap that can't be reused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the wood you will find falls into some general categories:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wood that can be reused, and can go in your scrap pile&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wood that can be reused but might not be useful for indoor projects&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wood that might be reused, but reusing it would be a giant pain, so might not be worth it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, the great majority of the wood you find will fall into (1). And (2) is easy to identify. This is the &amp;quot;pressure treated&amp;quot; variety of lumber for outside projects where rot is a concern. You should not use it for indoor projects, and when working with it some care should be taken to not overexpose yourself to the dust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you have a pile of old wood and you want to decide what to do with it. First, separate it into three piles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Painted wood&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unpainted wood&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pressure treated or otherwise wood treated for outdoor use&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have any of (3) and you want to keep it, stack it up and use if for outdoor projects. If you do not want it, the it should be taken to a municipal dump of some sort to be properly disposed of. The details of this will depend on how your local municipality disposes of &amp;quot;toxic&amp;quot; materials like batteries and petrochemicals. &lt;strong&gt;Do not burn it!&lt;/strong&gt; Again, depending on your local laws, generally small pieces go into the garbage, and larger pieces can be brought to the dump (either by yourself, or if your city has a monthly &amp;quot;large item&amp;quot; pickup program).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you have piles of painted and unpainted wood. Ideally, you test the painted wood with cheap lead testers and determine which, if any, have lead-based paint. If any do, you have a decision to make: do you keep it or not. If you keep it, you have to use it a bit carefully. Ideally, you minimize any dust you make while it is painted. This usually means chemical stripping it down to bare wood. If you don't want to do this, it goes into the garbage or dump as if it was batteries or old fuel or any other toxic material. &lt;strong&gt;Do not burn it.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rest of the wood is probably safe to use as-is, though as usual you should be wearing proper respiratory equipment when making any significant amount of dust from &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; wood. Some finishes have small amounts of metals added to help with drying, but these are very stable once cured. Again, use prudence when working with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it can be tough to distinguish actual pressure treated wood with wood that has been coated with a similar sort of material used in PT processes. In my experience, these finishes always have a lingering odour because they never really dry. They are usually oil-based penetrating finishes; they will look -- and smell -- different than most other finishes, including the less toxic penetrating finishes out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd advise not burning anything but the cleanest unfinished wood. But as long as it is not pressure treated, or contains heavy metals, it'll burn ok, but you have no way of knowing the details of the how the finish will react when combusted. Unless you have one of those super high heat wood furnaces, who knows what old finishes and embedded metals will do in the partial combustion present in  most run of the mill fireplaces or furnaces. It would certainly be terrible in a backyard firepit. All you are doing is potentially dumping a lot of free-based chemicals into your local air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That all being said, I used offcuts from a cedar siding project in my firepit, but this was seasoned western red cedar with no finish on it. Likewise for construction grade spruce or fir. But finished furniture? Save that for the apocalypse when you have no other choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, when in doubt, just toss it. Wood is a renewable resource and, unless we are talking beautiful seasoned hardwood from wrecked but salvageable antique furniture, anything you find will be easily sourced somewhere else more dependably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-07-06T19:47:47.173" LastActivityDate="2020-07-06T19:47:47.173" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10799" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-06T21:42:21.670" Score="1" ViewCount="280" Body="&lt;p&gt;When making a mortise and tenon joint, it's important for maximum strength of the joint that the tenon fit inside the mortise properly: neither too tight nor too loose.  If the tenon is too tight, then you run the risk of splitting the piece with the mortise, and even if it's not quite that tight, the mechanical action of sliding the joint together can act as a squeegee to remove the glue from between the two pieces of wood (reducing the bonding area between the pieces).  Too loose and the glue has to bridge gaps, something it is not designed to do (unless you're using an epoxy designed to do so).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules of thumb that I was taught for finding the sweet spot are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The pieces should dry assemble without the need for any persuasion by a mallet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When dry assembled, the pieces should hold together against gravity.  I.e., if you hold one piece so that the other piece is below it with the tenon vertical, then it should still hold together.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The pieces should come apart from the above position with a single good shake.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it's &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/10790/how-to-fix-this-mortise-and-tenon-joint#comment23113_10790&quot;&gt;recently been suggested to me&lt;/a&gt; that these rules of thumb may actually result in a joint that is too loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my question is: How do you tell if your mortise and tenon are properly sized to each other?  What rules of thumb do you use to tell you've got the right fit before starting to glue things together?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8864" LastActivityDate="2020-07-06T21:42:21.670" Title="How to tell the correct fit on a mortise and tenon joint?" Tags="|joinery|wood|technique|mortise-and-tenon|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10800" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-07T10:35:57.293" Score="1" ViewCount="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the process of building myself a workbench. Up until now, I've been using the floor as my workbench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ordered an untreated, but planed fingerjointed hardwoord Beech counter to serve as my countertop (2m x 1m ~ 6ft by 3ft).&#xA;When it arrived it was quite cupped, both in width as well as in length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I asked the supplier about this, they told me to leave it for 24h on either side and it should straighten itself. I tried that, but it's still very much cupped in either direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could attach it to the bottom of the workbench and leave some space in the bolts to allow for movement, but I'm not sure I want to be dealing with this as my workbench top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some other things I could do to improve this board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Needless to say, I'm a beginning woodworker and don't have a planer nor a jointer, nor will I get one anytime soon (and especially not one that allows for this size)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8877" LastActivityDate="2020-07-07T10:35:57.293" Title="Cupped fingejointed hardwood Birch panel" Tags="|wood-movement|hardwood|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10801" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10804" CreationDate="2020-07-07T11:47:44.593" Score="3" ViewCount="1381" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I use a rebate to joint 2 boards together, is it mandatory to use screws/nails to support it or will the glue alone hold just fine? My main concern is the fact that (to my knowledge) end grain doesn't provide much strength when glued.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Background: I'm building a square couch table which consists of 4 boards joined together: 1 on top, 2 on sides, 1 at the bottom which serves as an additional level (see the picture). I wonder if a rebate joint with glue will be enough to hold the sides to the top &amp;amp; bottom as I do not want to use screws and I would like to do something a bit nicer than a butt joint.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yTQaq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yTQaq.png&quot; alt=&quot;plan&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8875" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-07-08T14:29:41.620" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T12:57:53.797" Title="Is rebate/rabbet joint with glue only strong enough?" Tags="|joinery|glue|table-making|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10801" CreationDate="2020-07-08T14:28:37.303" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I use a rebate to joint 2 boards together, is it mandatory to use screws/nails to support it or will the glue alone hold just fine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The glue alone can be perfectly sufficient for a joint like this. Whether it is in practice depends on various factors, including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the loads it will be subject to, especially any shock loads&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;movement stresses (movement of the completed item, not wood movement);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the quality of the joint prep (flatness of the joint surfaces and the final fit);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the material used;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and how good the glue-up procedure is&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If in doubt it is a good idea to reinforce in some way. Erring on the side of strength is rarely, if ever, a poor choice in furniture making. Even a few brad nails or some dowels can add &lt;em&gt;significantly&lt;/em&gt; to the final strength of box structures like this. Toenail/dovetail the brads or dowels to maximise the reinforcement&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are reinforcing the quality of the joints is less critical, but don't use this as an excuse for sloppy fit :-) However, if you do end up with one or more of the joints fitting poorly it would be a good idea to switch from using PVA-type woodworking glue to an epoxy since the latter have good gap-filling properties and the former do not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main concern is the fact that (to my knowledge) end grain doesn't provide much strength when glued.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A rebate joint isn't a simple end grain joint like a mitre is, so some of the (legitimate) worries about end grain glueing poorly don't apply. More on the general topic in this previous Answer, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4233/&quot;&gt;What are the different grain directions, and how do they affect joint strength?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; E.g. legs being thrown up on to the top, a child sitting on it, or it being moved around by biffing it with the shins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Surfaces should be freshly worked, and if not refreshed with a light sanding just before glue goes on. Enough glue must be applied to fully wet both surfaces, and then sufficient clamp pressure applied to squeeze out all the excess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; I generally install any through-dowels with a slight lean anyway, just a few degrees off square. And once you use a pair at opposing angles you end up with a great deal more added strength than if they were both installed at 90°.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-07-08T14:28:37.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10806" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-09T21:26:30.860" Score="1" ViewCount="2793" Body="&lt;p&gt;I coated a bare wood acacia table for a computer desk with Minwax polycrylic about 4 months ago and made sure it was dried the recommended 24 hours before regular use. 4 months later, I noticed the edge where I rest my arms was getting sticky and peeling off. I thought it was just grime from my hands or something, then I realized it was a rubbery substance. I scraped it a bit and I could see the bare wood beneath. It was all sticky and rubbing off, and becoming a lint trap. Is this normal that Minwax polycrylic does not tolerate regular human body contact? I would not expect regular body temperature to be &amp;quot;high heat&amp;quot;. Or did I do something wrong? Is the deterioration caused by heat or oil? Also, would the stickyness disappear and the finish solidify again if I stop using it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am intending to sand off the rubbery section and re-finishing the area. Is it okay to put the new layers of finish over some thin layer of residue? Will it bind? Also buying a desk mat to protect the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8889" LastEditorUserId="8889" LastEditDate="2020-07-11T07:43:05.423" LastActivityDate="2023-08-02T17:52:48.923" Title="Polycrylic getting sticky and peeling/wearing off" Tags="|finishing|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10787" CreationDate="2020-07-10T12:15:03.343" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally looking for something that maintains the natural feel of the wood as much as possible while also protecting it more than linseed oil does alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Linseed oil in general provides very little in the way of protection to wooden surfaces, even when many coats are built up over some time and then allowed a full curing period — more than a month — as with the traditional procedures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it is quite easy to add protection here, since &lt;em&gt;most&lt;/em&gt; other finishes are more protective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maintaining the natural feel of wood is harder, since everything changes the feel somewhat. Plus there is some subjectivity here (read: a lot for some people). But once you have applied linseed oil maintaining much the same feel &lt;em&gt;as that&lt;/em&gt; is a lot easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of your simplest options here is to wipe on polyurethane varnish. When wiped on poly becomes one of the easiest finishes to do well..... for all intents and purposes it's the same as applying linseed oil. And the protection it provides is streets ahead of linseed, even polymerised linseed which is quite different to raw linseed oil or &amp;quot;boiled&amp;quot; linseed oil. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5891/how-to-fix-very-light-scratches-in-polyurethane-finish/5893#5893&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt; for more on making your own wiping varnish and how it may be applied, the info from finishing guru Bob Flexner who has done more to popularise wiping on poly than anyone else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If using the option to wipe away all of the excess (which I would recommend here for a couple of reason) I suggest applying &lt;em&gt;at least&lt;/em&gt; four coats, but six or seven would be better if you can stomach the time it takes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note 1:&lt;/strong&gt; remember that full protection is only afforded once a finish has had a decent amount of time to cure, which here will be somewhere about 3-6 weeks after the final coat is applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note 2:&lt;/strong&gt; if you end up with a surface that feels a little slick a light sanding with fine abrasive paper (320 or finer), or scuffing with fine steel wool (0000/00000) or fine ScotchBrite will sort this out and even up the reflectiveness of the surface while you're at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-07-10T12:15:03.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6763" CreationDate="2020-07-10T13:58:34.700" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Great tips here ! I'll add one more, that's worked great for years on large blocks on my BBQ trailer and at home. I simply put the bees wax on the boards, after melting or even grating, then &amp;quot;iron&amp;quot; it in. Yep, spread the wax on the board, cover with parchment paper or wax paper and iron it at low heat (no steam). This pushes the wax around and works it into the wood, not just on it. Putting boards in ovens is risky and can weaken glue joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8892" LastActivityDate="2020-07-10T13:58:34.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10809" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-10T17:09:54.177" Score="-1" ViewCount="294" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a very simple work-from-home desk, with 3/4&amp;quot; AC fir plywood for the top. The plywood has a concave bow on the top side.  How do I straighten this board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've already applied several coats of polyurethane to the top--perhaps this was a noob mistake to do before straightening.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm planning to use sawhorses as legs, and screw a 2x4 lengthwise to the bottom of the desktop for rigidity.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Desktop is 72&amp;quot;x24&amp;quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I didn't finish the bottom. Do I need to do this for moisture reasons?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8894" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T16:44:17.110" LastActivityDate="2020-12-10T20:03:15.513" Title="How to straighten AC plywood for desktop" Tags="|plywood|warp|bowing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10809" CreationDate="2020-07-10T19:37:08.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plywood is difficult to straighten; it is full of glued together plys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You could glue/screw another warped piece with opposing curves to it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Screw/glue &lt;strong&gt;straight&lt;/strong&gt; runners to the underside. 2x4's, angle iron, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2917" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T19:14:27.803" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T19:14:27.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10768" CreationDate="2020-07-11T19:08:41.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the same problem with my Record 52 1/2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The older ones had a thin sheet metal cover over the screw lead. I cleaned all the old grease and applied a Very thin coat of silicone lubricant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dust and crude does not seem to stick to it like it does to grease, plus it lubricates better than wax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use it on the guides as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8900" LastEditorUserId="2917" LastEditDate="2020-07-18T11:58:49.823" LastActivityDate="2020-07-18T11:58:49.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10727" CreationDate="2020-07-11T21:02:11.467" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen the use of iron fillings dissolved in vinegar to add a bleached aged look to white oak and white ash.&#xA;To make this up use distilled white vinegar, I know it's a synthesized product but it works from what I've seen. For every gallon of vinegar add 1-2 pounds, or until it would dissolve anymore. You can get iron fillings from brake shops that regrind brake drums and discs.&#xA;It will look a bit red until it dries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8900" LastActivityDate="2020-07-11T21:02:11.467" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10676" CreationDate="2020-07-11T21:09:18.343" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to keep the edges sharp and sill not get cut you can do what I do when paring. Wrap your finger with heavy duty medical tape, the brownish colored.  couple of wraps doesn't seem to effect my precision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8900" LastActivityDate="2020-07-11T21:09:18.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10816" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10822" CreationDate="2020-07-12T16:51:13.047" Score="0" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went out and bought some hard maple for my desk. I've already glued the boards together to make the tabletop, but I noticed some variation in color between the boards. Two of them are somewhat dark, a few are white, and the other is half white half yellow. The white part was being covered by another board in the lumberyard, so I am assuming that maple yellows over time when exposed to UV light. This is not an issue for me, but I wanted to know if it is possible to even out the colors across the boards, and how. Will keeping the tabletop in direct sunlight help? Hopefully they can all have that nice golden-ish color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8839" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T18:26:15.467" Title="Variation in shades of maple wood" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10817" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-12T22:31:01.373" Score="0" ViewCount="211" Body="&lt;p&gt;While planning and designing a cabinet, I made a wrong assumption of making two butt joints J1 and J2 on the same side of a piece of wood. While doing the work, I realised J1 needs screws from bottom to top, and J2 needs screws from top to bottom, and if I do either one first, the other is not possible. I'm thinking one of the joints needs to be done using pocket hole screws. All pieces are 3/4&amp;quot; hardwood. Is there a better alternative? How do I salvage this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;|(1)&#xA;|&#xA;|(J1)&#xA;==============(2)&#xA;|(J2)&#xA;|&#xA;|&#xA;|(3)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side view -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l2wvL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l2wvL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Side View&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front View -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yj57B.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yj57B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Front view&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T3Gb9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T3Gb9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Here is a pencil sketch&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8905" LastEditorUserId="8905" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T03:00:31.337" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T12:39:36.340" Title="Butt joints on both sides on the same piece of wood" Tags="|joinery|butt-joint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10818" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10823" CreationDate="2020-07-13T02:56:32.093" Score="1" ViewCount="2689" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about making a pantry cabinet using 3/4&amp;quot; plywood. To join them, I was considering using mortise and tenon joints between the sides and backboard. I couldn't find any youtube videos of anyone making mortise and tenon joints using plywood and so I'm guessing it's a bad idea. Are the plys too thin to make a strong tenon?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I wanted to make a cabinet using only joinery / with no nails, then what joints should I he using? Rabbets and dowels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8885" LastActivityDate="2020-07-14T17:02:07.387" Title="Is it possible / a good idea to use plywood for mortise and tenon joints?" Tags="|plywood|cabinetry|mortise-and-tenon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10817" CreationDate="2020-07-13T12:39:36.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think a much more common approach would be to make the upper cabinet a stand-alone unit with its own bottom. Then, when you assemble the two units, you'd use short screws driven up through the top of the lower unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would have a secondary benefit as well. As you currently envisage it, getting the doors right on the upper unit will be a very, very tricky (and probably frustrating) exercise in fitting. If the upper unit leans even a tiny bit forward, the doors are going to make contact with the top of the lower unit when they open - and with 15 inch doors that's not going to take much. Going to a separate upper unit would allow a face piece to fill in a small gap (say, 1/8 to 1/4) under the doors. This would give you a bit of clearance to allow the doors to swing freely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="463" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T12:39:36.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10789" CreationDate="2020-07-13T12:47:36.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thank you all for your advice. It was very helpful to think about it, especially because I’m planning to do one more. To answer some questions, I have added two pieces of wood that go under the joint and at the end of the counter top, so it became a sturdy one-piece counter top. The board is 5/8” thick. In addition to this, I have a screw under (15 degrees angle) that keeps them connected. I should keep it there for many years to come.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyhow, I was inspired by the previous answer regarding adding a different material to compensate, so I thought that I can take advantage of the pattern. For this reason, I carved some shapes along the joint (1/8” depth) and added some dark bark in the joint direction. I fixed the bark with some glue in the middle of the hole and then I added wood filler around. I then took a soldering iron and burnt some non-uniform shapes to look like the knot extends in all directions and it looks way better now. With epoxy on it (not sanded yet), looks like this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HcIhc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HcIhc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks again for all the help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8663" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T12:47:36.743" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10801" CreationDate="2020-07-13T12:57:53.797" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In this sort of open box construction (and you don't mention a back plate), racking is always the big enemy. The joint is unlikely to fail in shear. What you have to worry about is the top being pushed sideways while the bottom is fixed in place. If this happens, all the stress is focussed on twisting the joint apart, and the two joined pieces provide considerable mechanical advantage for doing just that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The classic stiffener is a back plate. If your couch is not freestanding, this is simple enough, and even 1/4 in material (hint: plywoood) is adequate. If the unit is freestanding, and you're willing to compromise esthetics a bit on one side, using 45 degree corner blocks, say 2&amp;quot; x 2&amp;quot;, should do adequately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another issue is your legs. How do you propose to mount them to meet the same issue? But even more so. You might provide a collar, but that might be (in your eyes) unsightly. You could use a bannister bolt, or rail bolt, and run it through the bottom and into the decorative extensions inside the box. You could then use a Forstner bit to make a pocket in the underside of the top piece which would fit the extension piece, and use that to resist racking as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="463" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T12:57:53.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10816" CreationDate="2020-07-13T18:26:15.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;After flattening the top/ removing glue, leave the top out in the sun for a couple of days before applying a finish. That should even out the color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T18:26:15.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10818" CreationDate="2020-07-13T19:23:55.210" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plywood doesn't really work with traditional joinery. Because it is made from alternating plies or other composite construction it is hard to make a snug tenon fit. Further, many of the joints will be mostly end-grain. Both of these issues make tight glue joints nearly impossible with those sorts of joint. And, though the outside ply will readily work well with PVA glues, the internal plies themselves may be constructed with glues and additives that &lt;em&gt;do not&lt;/em&gt; work well with PVA. This generally makes for an ill-fitting, weak joint that does not take advantage of how PVA glues work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll find most plywood construction is made with biscuits, dowels, or pocket screws. That is, most plywood construction makes use of fasteners for aligning and providing some additional stiffness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the application, you might get away with finger-joints if that was a construction detail that appealed to you. It &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; not be tremendously strong, though. It may depend on the rest of the construction and the type of plywood. But it is generally a reasonable option for many.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I suppose you could experiment with what boat-builders do with plywood. They tend to use mechanical fasteners as well, but where they don't, they often use epoxies and other special adhesives with lap-style joints to provide strength with flexibility. A special case, maybe, but it points out one of the first major industrial uses of plywood materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-07-14T17:02:07.387" LastActivityDate="2020-07-14T17:02:07.387" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2837" CreationDate="2020-07-14T03:30:17.237" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know. All those while geometrically correct depend at some point on some one visual judgement like getting your right angle perfectly bisected how to do that? Or drawling the two lines that bisect same amount circle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would make a circle 2&amp;quot; on paper with end dowel or compass, cut out circle, fold in half then half again center fold= center, stick it on end dowel and punch your nail starter hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8911" LastActivityDate="2020-07-14T03:30:17.237" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10825" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10830" CreationDate="2020-07-15T00:50:20.457" Score="4" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;This video on glulam beam production shows a brief clip of some kind of test or measurement being made on wood boards prior to lamination into a glulam beam:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/MnLGbhkeVFQ?t=153&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/MnLGbhkeVFQ?t=153&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The worker inserts what seems to be a probe into a pre-drilled hole or depression and then, noting its results, marks the end of the board with a plus or minus:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TcbbI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TcbbI.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e5Rnb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e5Rnb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is being measured here? The video doesn't explain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that just after this point in the video it looks like a moisture test is being done; but this doesn't use the same equipment and was done in the face of the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="763" LastEditorUserId="763" LastEditDate="2020-07-16T01:35:29.967" LastActivityDate="2020-07-16T01:35:29.967" Title="What test is being performed on this wood stock?" Tags="|wood-properties|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10827" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-15T12:22:14.850" Score="2" ViewCount="791" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I bought a veritas router plane and I noticed that they provide an optional fence.&#xA;（and with smaller blades）&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Vnhy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Vnhy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Router Plane&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;As I'm new to woodworking, I wonder what the fence is designed for?&#xA;It seems one can make grooves using a router plane with a fence？Then how about a plow/plough plane？&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whats the difference between a router plane with fence&#xA;and a plow plane in making grooves？dados or rabbets？&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8828" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2020-07-19T15:24:31.963" LastActivityDate="2021-07-06T17:37:28.660" Title="What is a router plane fence designed for?" Tags="|hand-tools|plane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10827" CreationDate="2020-07-15T14:41:54.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased the same router plane as well along with the fence which I haven't used yet, but after cutting my first few dados, I can see why it would be helpful. I'm new as well so I imagine that with experience, you may not need the fence. The fence is to keep the blade parallel to an edge, which is the same purpose as on the plow plane. For the router plane, the fence mitigates small changes in the angle of the blade which slowly makes the cut wider.  The main differences between the two is the router is referenced from the face of the board, so it's good for keeping the depth of the cut level, but the blade is short, so it's easier to get off line if you rotate the plane while cutting.  The plow plane is longer and references against the edge so it's better for cutting with the grain and staying straight.  I'm sure you found the same sites as well, but this blog was helpful to me - &lt;a href=&quot;https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?192582-Veritas-Router-Plane-as-a-plough-plane&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Veritas Router plane as a plow plane&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For dados, there are dado planes (of course) as well. I don't own this one, but it gets good reviews.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.heartwoodtools.com/hntgordon/dado-plane-quarter-inch#:%7E:text=1%2F4%20inch-,Dado%20Plane%20%2D%201%2F4%20inch,when%20planing%20across%20the%20grain.&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dado plane&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5587" LastActivityDate="2020-07-15T14:41:54.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6030" CreationDate="2020-07-15T21:22:27.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might try using a number of hole saws, starting with the smallest diameter hole saw and cut to the lowest point of the concave hole, then progressively using increasing diameter hole saws cutting to various depths of the concave hole.  Ending with the largest hole saw that meets the diameter of the concave.  Then break out all the various levels of cuts and finish with a chisel and some sanding.  Forstner bits will also do the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8920" LastActivityDate="2020-07-15T21:22:27.463" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10825" CreationDate="2020-07-16T01:35:00.937" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found some materials which I think explain what this is and why it was done. In summary it is a device used to determine the stiffness of the board ultrasonically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is apparently important for glulams because they are made of various grades of boards with those being able to better resist tension used for the outer layers, and secondary quality boards used for the interior. So they have to rate the boards to plan how to best use the material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect the + / - markings on the boards are simply a pass/fail notation based on whether the board has met or exceeded some predetermined stiffness criteria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A very detailed and comprehensive source is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Robert_Ross28/publication/326684375_Nondestructive_Evaluation_of_Wood_Second_Edition/links/5b5efc7aa6fdccf0b200d186/Nondestructive-Evaluation-of-Wood-Second-Edition.pdf?origin=publication_detail&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nondestructive Evaluation of Wood Second Edition&lt;/a&gt;, July 2015, Robert Jon Ross, US Forest Service, which&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;summarizes information on nondestructive testing and evaluation of&#xA;wood... nondestructive evaluation is the science of identifying the&#xA;physical and mechanical properties of a piece of material without&#xA;altering its end-use capabilities and then using this information to&#xA;make decisions regarding appropriate applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to fit glulam manufacturing needs pretty well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The specific test being performed by the device shown is to determine the material's &amp;quot;flexural stiffness&amp;quot; which influences how resistant the wood is to stretching or bending. This seems to basically come down to the following formula:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modulus of Elasticity= C&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; ✕ density&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where the device is used to measure the speed of vibrations (sound) &lt;em&gt;C&lt;/em&gt; through the board by timing how long a pulse takes to travel end to end, as depicted here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w4CyF.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w4CyF.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first reference I found to be readable but does get extremely detailed &amp;amp; technical. I found another good description in &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.scielo.br/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&amp;amp;pid=S1516-14392005000100004&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Moisture content effect on ultrasonic velocity...&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ultrasonic testing&lt;/strong&gt; consists effectively of the propagation of low&#xA;amplitude waves through a material to measure either or both the time&#xA;of travel and any change of intensity for a given distance.&#xA;Applications include distance gauging, flaw detection and &lt;strong&gt;measuring&#xA;parameters which are related to the material structure&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The propagation of ultrasonic waves in wood depends mainly on the&#xA;mechanical properties of the cell wall. The cell wall density is&#xA;reasonably constant, but the modulus of elasticity varies owing to&#xA;variations in the cell wall structure; hence, one can expect a range&#xA;of values for the velocity propagation property.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The value of the velocity of sound in a material &lt;strong&gt;depends on the&#xA;appropriate elastic modulus&lt;/strong&gt;, which is characteristic of the nature of&#xA;the vibrational stress applied to it and also on the density of the&#xA;material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The document &lt;a href=&quot;http://support.sbcindustry.com/Archive/2008/june/Paper_197.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Timber grading machine using ultrasonic and density measurements&lt;/a&gt; had a useful diagram of a real-world setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7ZI1u.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7ZI1u.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.researchgate.net/figure/SYLVATEST-ultrasound-device_fig2_26371494&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ultrasonic Measurements In Brazilian Hardwood&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; a photo of what could be the same kit shown in the question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LtOAW.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LtOAW.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which is a &amp;quot;SYLVATEST ultrasound device&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also this photo from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.scielo.br/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&amp;amp;pid=S1516-14392005000100004&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the second source&lt;/a&gt; mentioned above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6oD66.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6oD66.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And apparently a similar device is still &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cbs-cbt.com/en/technology/sylvatest-5-112-5&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;made under the same brand&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="763" LastActivityDate="2020-07-16T01:35:00.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10832" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-18T01:01:41.377" Score="0" ViewCount="37" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having a hard time placing Khaya/African mahogany. An article states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Varieties of mahogany include Honduran, South American, Peruvian, Bolivian, Cuban, Big Leaf and True. All of them are typically marketed together and sold as &amp;quot;genuine mahogany.&amp;quot; Two other varieties differ slightly: African mahogany, because of its luster and hardness, &lt;strong&gt;is considered superior to genuine mahogany&lt;/strong&gt; and is usually marketed separately from genuine. (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hunker.com/13401189/difference-between-mahogany-oak-wood&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this seems to be belied by the actual numbers. Per &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wood-database.com/african-mahogany/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Wood Database&lt;/a&gt; African mahogany's Janka Hardness is marked &amp;quot;1,070 lbf (4,760 N)&amp;quot; which is not particularly high. I know there are mahogany varieties with lower numbers, but I don't think 4,760 N makes the timber impressive flooring material. &lt;a href=&quot;https://cedarstripkayak.wordpress.com/lumber-selection/162-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This site&lt;/a&gt; gives a wide density range (0.5 – 0.85 1000 kg/m3)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What, more accurately, is African mahogany's density? I am very concerned about its durability and scratch resistance properties. How does it fare as flooring? What are other notable qualities of this timber?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8927" LastEditorUserId="8927" LastEditDate="2020-07-18T01:09:10.637" LastActivityDate="2020-07-18T01:09:10.637" Title="Is Khaya more durable and a better flooring choice (based on quantitative hardness, density, etc.) than &quot;genuine mahogany&quot;?" Tags="|wood-selection|hardwood|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10833" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10836" CreationDate="2020-07-18T06:48:07.940" Score="0" ViewCount="445" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on (water-based) ink-jet ink transfers to wood by printing images on freezer paper and then rubbing the ink into the wood. I'm using aspen and poplar for this project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue I'm having is the wood isn't as smooth as paper so it ends up with micro gaps in the ink giving it a really grainy look. But at the same time the ink bleeds a tiny amount so the finer details blur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to figure out either a way to prevent the ink from bleeding or if nothing else, color the wood just a tiny amount so the lighter colored &amp;quot;grainy&amp;quot; parts don't show as much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I've tried a golden oak stain, which if I use a tiny brush and wipe off almost immediately it sorta works but tends to make the image look more golden yellow than I'd like. I don't have any other colors of stain to try right now but if the images are black and white, maybe a gray or black would work. I don't think it would work with colored ink, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also tried Gesso canvas primer but it actually made the ink bleed more. The other one I tried was Liquitex Matte Medium over the ink which gives a neat look by blending the ink to fill in gaps but it makes it too dark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://images-wixmp-ed30a86b8c4ca887773594c2.wixmp.com/f/6d3fe3d0-d00b-4bdd-8517-a26f9862ee68/de1j9mh-48307905-dbf1-4b5d-9a1b-869f35a40e95.jpg/v1/fill/w_1024,h_1821,q_75,strp/another_colored_ink_transfer_to_wood_by_lokiie1984_de1j9mh-fullview.jpg?token=eyJ0eXAiOiJKV1QiLCJhbGciOiJIUzI1NiJ9.eyJzdWIiOiJ1cm46YXBwOiIsImlzcyI6InVybjphcHA6Iiwib2JqIjpbW3siaGVpZ2h0IjoiPD0xODIxIiwicGF0aCI6IlwvZlwvNmQzZmUzZDAtZDAwYi00YmRkLTg1MTctYTI2Zjk4NjJlZTY4XC9kZTFqOW1oLTQ4MzA3OTA1LWRiZjEtNGI1ZC05YTFiLTg2OWYzNWE0MGU5NS5qcGciLCJ3aWR0aCI6Ijw9MTAyNCJ9XV0sImF1ZCI6WyJ1cm46c2VydmljZTppbWFnZS5vcGVyYXRpb25zIl19.4EjGSGx3VLSiQL1j6AwhbRhGlTwzG6H9OeXZXkg53Yo&quot; alt=&quot;Colored ink transfer picture to help people understand.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see in the top image the grainy gaps; the bleed is a little harder to see. The picture below it shows the gaps a little better. I did buy some 400 to 3000 grit wet dry sand paper to try and get this wood smoother. I'm hoping that'll help too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just a bit stumped on what else to try. I wonder what would happen if I used wood conditioner and then did a very light gray stain before the ink transfer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8928" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-07-18T13:53:21.793" LastActivityDate="2020-07-18T17:47:24.300" Title="Would wood conditioner help keep ink from bleeding on wood?" Tags="|staining|sanding|wood-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10768" CreationDate="2020-07-18T14:15:51.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never used wax, as all the threads I've ever encountered like this were pre-greased. If I ever get or build one of those wood-thread vises I'll use some sort of wax. But for now I'm stuck with metal-on-metal screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've experimented with various lubes, greases, and oils over time, and I've found that lighter oils are the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They'll still attract sawdust the same way (or maybe a &lt;em&gt;little&lt;/em&gt; less) as grease, but it seems easier to cleanup. I bought a metal can of WD-40 and a refillable spray bottle, and I give the threads a few squirts, and then wipe most of the softened crud off with a rag. Basically, I use WD-40 as a cleaner and rust-preventive. For vises used in woodworking, it also provides enough lubrication.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downside is that petroleum-based oils can stain wood, so you have to be careful with pieces you are getting ready for finishing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found that silicone or other synthetic lubes often don't stain (but you have to make sure it is one of the safe-for-wood types) but gunk up just as much as organic lubes. Maybe a light silicone oil would work the same as WD-40, but I have not tried it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-07-20T12:55:37.900" LastActivityDate="2020-07-20T12:55:37.900" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10833" CreationDate="2020-07-18T16:06:00.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I don't have direct experience here, but I have a friend who does a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of transfers to wood, metal, glass, etc. Here's what he said:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Canvas gesso isn't good for ink. It's quite porous. He should probably&#xA;start with a matte clear coat spray varnish. That's if he wants it to&#xA;look like he's printing on wood. Otherwise, paint it, then varnish,&#xA;then print, then clear coat again. Or switch to a water transfer&#xA;method. That's what I'm using these days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost certainly you want a smooth matte finish to print onto, so no sanding the base-coat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I went out of my way to make a comment about addressing both your questions, you will probably have to sand to a much finer level. The last pass should be a pretty fine grit, possibly wetting the wood first to get the fibres to swell up and be cut nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though, for the cleanest cut you cannot beat cabinet scrapers. A sharp scraper will make a very smooth surface with very little fibre ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, if you wet sand before applying your base-coat, you will have the opportunity for a quick pass with sandpaper before a second base-coat, which will make for a very smooth starting point for your printing process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-07-18T17:47:24.300" LastActivityDate="2020-07-18T17:47:24.300" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10837" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-19T07:54:53.723" Score="0" ViewCount="48" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a small home and wanted a desk preferably which does not touch down in extended position and can be folded into the window bracket. Below is how my window looks like&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rwG0P.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rwG0P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;My Window &quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming the width of window is 70 cm. How can I go by building this? The idea that I have is fix a piece of wood (70cm x5cm) on the window with door clamps on it side and attach another piece of wood approx 70cm x 45cm to the door clamps so it opens when pulled down. Then use a belt to hold it up for closing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does that make sense? How can I calculate the wieght it would be able to hold? What are the materials required?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wood, what kind?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clamps? Hinges? is that the proper name? Would a couple be enough?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How many hinges/clamps should be used?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a complete beginner. If you think I should learn somethings first please direct me. I have gotten so far by spending hours at the hardware store. Any guidance appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8931" LastActivityDate="2020-07-19T07:54:53.723" Title="How can I build a foldable desk within my window frame?" Tags="|technique|tools|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10838" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-19T08:45:13.053" Score="3" ViewCount="524" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that gloves of any kind do not protect a woodworker against a circular saw, on the contrary they can make matters worse. However, when using a jigsaw, like the one in the picture, do chainsaw gloves, or of a different type, protect the hands and fingers of the worker from the blade? I have read that the jigsaw is one of the least dangerous power tools for cutting wood and other materials and I intend to buy one but I never used any power tool for cutting. I want to utilize it especially &lt;strong&gt;for making long straight cuts in plywood&lt;/strong&gt; up to 1/2 inch thick and also for cutting framing studs 2 x 4 inch (which I understand are in fact 1.5 x 3.5 inch). Sometimes, but rarely, I have to cut the stud along its longitudinal axis to make two thinner studs. I do not plan to use this tool too often. Maybe, twice a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HAYXa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HAYXa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-4-8-Amp-Corded-Variable-Speed-Orbital-Jig-Saw-JS481LG/205105611&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;4.8 Amp Corded Variable Speed Orbital Jig Saw&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VBhor_4zIXk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Video showing a chainsaw stopped by a special glove (Soft Touch Chainsaw Glove C-2000):&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8932" LastActivityDate="2020-07-19T19:11:50.087" Title="Do chainsaw gloves protect your hands from the blade of a jigsaw?" Tags="|safety|jigsaw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10839" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-19T10:11:30.840" Score="0" ViewCount="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have a table made and I was told that they applied a water based paint over it because I requested it to be black. The wood they used is either palochina or mahogany. As of right now, it isn't really rough (maybe like the texture of rubber?) but I can kinda feel the grain. I want it to be really smooth because I am using it as a computer table and really bothers me since my arms are on it more than 8 hours a day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no experience in woodworking but since I had this made, I did get interested. In my research I found out that the easiest way I can add a finish on the table to make it smooth is to use a lacquer spray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue I am having is that I am not really sure if I should add wood filler, primer or anything before I add more finish. I also found colored lacquer spray paint and I would prefer to use those since I would like to deepen the color that has already been painted on my table but I'm not really sure if it is the same thing as what is commonly used which is the clear one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope someone could help me out on this or if you have any other suggestion besides lacquer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8933" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-07-20T09:16:20.847" LastActivityDate="2020-07-20T09:16:20.847" Title="Adding finish to a painted wooden table" Tags="|finishing|furniture|finish-selection|tabletop|hardwood|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10838" CreationDate="2020-07-19T19:11:50.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since nobody else has weighed in with a complete answer, I'll give it a shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jigsaws are pretty benign as cutting tools. Except for the obvious issue of putting a body part close to the blade, the most common thing for a jigsaw seems to be a blade binding and the whole saw hopping up and down, which is bothersome and might thump a finger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest that you build habits around not having your hands in proximity to the blade, rather than getting a (possibly false) sense of security in the form of a protective glove. It might even be the case that having a glove makes you more likely to do something strange and dangerous. (YMMV.) Clamping a workpiece securely so you can concentrate on cutting, rather than holding and cutting is a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned by @FreeMan, the jigsaw isn't great for a long straight rip cut. Once in a blue moon isn't too bad, but if you find yourself needing this functionality regularly, a circular saw might be a good next step. At least find a jigsaw blade that's long enough to cut 1.5&amp;quot; and has relatively few teeth for easier ripping. (And a couple of rips might convince you to just buy the right size lumber to start with.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2020-07-19T19:11:50.087" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2020-07-19T19:11:50.087" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10768" CreationDate="2020-07-20T09:06:58.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need to sweat this overmuch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can imagine this is a common issue with almost all users of such vices — some amount of wood dust inevitably finds its way into the mechanism of working vices where the thread and guide rods are exposed during use, and such vices are built with loose tolerances so this won't affect function much. It can actually take years and years (literally decades in some cases) for the buildup of dust within the mechanism to become so great that the vice begins to bog down, and/or the lock to begin to slip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although periodic brushing off of the worst of the detritus is good practice, the guide rods (where the tolerances are tighter) are self-cleaning to a degree. There's some indication of this in the photograph you posted, where the rods have been wiped clean where they enter the rear jaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to minimise the problem is to stop using oil or grease (any kind) to lubricate, and instead use wax. Now a vice's drive screw &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; really be greased, not simply oiled, and wax is not really an ideal replacement for grease on screw threads in regular use. But, we can see in the photograph that these are buttress threads, meaning this is a quick-release vice. This makes this approach even more viable since much of the major movement of the vice in both directions can be accomplished without actually using the screw at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there is no rule that says that you can't use more than one lubricant on a single mechanism. Here only a short length of the screw and guide rods commonly have dust and chips falling on them. So clean &lt;em&gt;just the portion of them that is most commonly exposed&lt;/em&gt; with white spirit/mineral spirits and then wax, leaving the remainder lubricated with grease, and you get the best of both worlds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-07-20T09:06:58.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10843" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-20T19:57:05.093" Score="2" ViewCount="394" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cut a square hollow from a thick (~20in diameter) pine log using a chain saw, which looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FMo1P.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FMo1P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my purposes, I don't need this very exact, nor very smooth, but I do want to get rid of those huge chunks of tear-out at the bottom. I've tried hand planing, but it's just not working; if the blade of the plane sticks out less than a tiny amount (maybe 0.2mm), it doesn't do anything, or quickly clogs with shavings, and if it sticks out more than that, it seizes in the wood and just makes more tear-out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hbyDK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hbyDK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've sharpened the planer blade, so I don't think that's the issue. The wood is probably not very dry, since it was just recently on the inside of a huge log, but I'm not sure if that's relevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be making this so hard to plane, and is there some smarter way of doing this job?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Update&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the moisture of the cavity walls and it's about 15%. Is that too wet for planing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4640" LastEditorUserId="4640" LastEditDate="2020-07-21T11:57:08.553" LastActivityDate="2020-12-20T06:30:53.547" Title="Why is this planing job going so badly?" Tags="|hand-planing|pine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10843" CreationDate="2020-07-20T22:36:24.497" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless the wood is wet, you should be able to get decent results with a plane especially with a soft wood like pine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You did not mention what size plane you are using, but I would recommend a jack plane length. There are specialty planes that are intended for rough work to get things close to level, but you should be able to get by with a standard plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that the your wood surface will be very irregular.  At the start, your plane can only work  on the relative high points.  If the front and back of the plane are in contact the blade may not yet be in contact.  Start by finding your high areas and working to flatten them.  As you bring those areas down to a more general level the plane will engage  larger areas of the surface.  Eventually you will get more uniform shavings over broad areas resulting in the type of shavings you are expecting. It just takes some time to get to that point. On the other hand, if you set too much depth then the plane will dig in too much (2mm is too much) and the force you apply to plane edge may cannot cut through all the wood.  Instead it will grab hold and begin to tear out a layer.  I also suggest that you should be cutting generally with the grain (the grain should be rising towards the surface of the wood in the direction of your stroke) that way the wood will not want to tear out more wood instead of a clean shaving. You increase your risk of tear out as you change the direction closer to perpendicular or against the grain.  Once you are closer to flat and if your blade is sharp enough you can worry less about the angle of approach.  The nature of the shaving will always tell you if you are pushing things too far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also said that you have sharpened the blade, but is it sharp enough?  A good edge will be sharpened down to at least 1000 grit and more (I sharpen mine with a series of japanese water stones starting at 800, followed by 1200, and final polishing using a 6000 razor honing stone).   You should be able to shave hairs on your arm with the blade edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2020-07-20T22:36:24.497" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10845" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-21T04:17:54.627" Score="0" ViewCount="977" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on a project to create a rolling wall for a local art gallery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wall will be 8ft wide, 7ft tall and 1-1/2ft deep. I'm planning to frame it with 2x4s as a standard wall, mounted on top of a metal &amp;amp; OSB cart, and sheathed in OSB (rather than drywall)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to an inspiration buildout video:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=E3SrGzAsRBE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=E3SrGzAsRBE&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the base cart, I am unsure what metal to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have watched DIY videos that suggested welding 2x2 square steel tube to make the frame and securing plywood or OSB to the surface. I think this may be overkill, and I don't have access to welding capabilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an alternative I am exploring:&#xA;Building the frame out of angles slotted steel beams and securing this to 7/16th sheet of OSB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My biggest concern is the 8 foot span between the castors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will Of course be mounting 2x4 As a part of the framed walls baseplate. So this will further add to the strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking to the community here to provide some guidance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the 2x2 Welded square steel tube Overkill?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would the angles slotted steel be sufficient?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Am I just over engineering this whole thing and should drop the metal all together an build the frame out of 2x4, top it with OSB, then frame the wall on top?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a secondary question:&#xA;Based on your recommendation what method of fasteners should I use for the OSB to metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8945" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-07-21T13:48:17.387" LastActivityDate="2020-07-21T19:53:07.160" Title="Building a Rolling Wall, Step 1 The Base" Tags="|plywood|strength|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10847" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-21T12:22:51.527" Score="0" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering building a farmhouse kitchen table similar to this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JqvNo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JqvNo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like the &amp;quot;appearance of simplicity&amp;quot;, but in truth, I'm not sure it would be all that simple.  all 5 of those joints need to be quite strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be working with 3&amp;quot; x 5&amp;quot; pieces of walnut.  Here is how I was considering joining these pieces, and my concerns.  Keep in mind I am an amateur woodworker at best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the center, I want to lap the two boards to make a tight 45-degree joint (three inches thick total).  I'm considering attaching a truss between each of the center points by using a 6 inch bolt, drilling through the center of a 3 or 4-inch truss on each side, and digging out a small rectangular notch which would be on the bottom of the truss, allowing me to attach a flange nut. It seems like an elegant solution but I'm concerned about clamping three things together which will have a considerable amount of lateral forces on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the connections to the top and bottom, I was thinking about using 2 7&amp;quot; headlock screws as pocket screws in each.  I was also considering oversizing the height of the cross-section by 1/2&amp;quot; and then routing out 4 x 1/4&amp;quot; deep trenches to hold each of the points in place.  I'm not sure how that will look aesthetically, but it seems like it would take the load off the center joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts or concerns? How can I make this rock-solid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.pinimg.com/originals/be/ef/7d/beef7db8288c09eaa119f5a9c2ee0d3f.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Example Table&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l1GDq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l1GDq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Side view&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4323" LastEditorUserId="4323" LastEditDate="2020-07-22T03:07:00.490" LastActivityDate="2020-07-22T03:07:00.490" Title="Structural recommendations for a farmhouse table with a lapped, crossed legs" Tags="|table-making|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10848" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10855" CreationDate="2020-07-21T14:52:52.470" Score="1" ViewCount="215" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;em&gt;The Anarchist's Tool Chest&lt;/em&gt;, Christopher Schwarz recommends buying a #5 bench plane with three irons as a first hand plane: a curved scrub blade, a flat jointer/try blade, and a flat smoothing blade. What is the difference between the jointer blade and the smoothing blade? Are they ground to different bevel angles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8906" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2020-07-21T16:33:13.087" LastActivityDate="2020-07-22T09:53:43.213" Title="What is the difference between the jointer blade and the smoothing blade?" Tags="|hand-tools|plane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10845" CreationDate="2020-07-21T19:42:46.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Metal is not necessary for this project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You really only need solid sturdy wide gussets on the sides, and solid sturdy overall construction. 2x4's, &lt;strong&gt;Plywood&lt;/strong&gt; sheathing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quality wheels wheels will make a huge difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could write a long tutorial but photos will be better than words.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a couple of shots of the art walls in my friends studio/gallery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AZmrs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AZmrs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8QhvK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8QhvK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2917" LastEditorUserId="2917" LastEditDate="2020-07-21T19:53:07.160" LastActivityDate="2020-07-21T19:53:07.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10851" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-22T01:29:54.847" Score="0" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a table made out of 3/4&amp;quot; walnut. Right now, I have it on saw horses but will soon be attaching legs via cleats. The problem I am having now is that I'm noticing a bit of flex in the center of the table while it's on the sawhorses. I understand this is due to no supports like aprons.  I want to avoid aprons, I am 6'8&amp;quot; tall and I hate hitting them.  I have formulated three plans and would like to get advice on which one I should use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the plans:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;weld together a rectangle made of 2&amp;quot;x2&amp;quot; steel/aluminum square pip which would be the width of the cleats and the length of between the cleats. Plus I would probably weld another piece of the tube down the center of the rectangle.  I would attach this by using some form of bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;use a product like these &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/pep/Regency-60-in-W-Table-Stiffener-for-66-to-84-in-W-Tables-MTS60/302728310?cm_mmc=Shopping-BA-F_HDH-G-D59-59_34_INTERIOR_FURNITURE-MULTI-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-Accent-71700000051494675-58700005284168660-92700046771772566&amp;amp;gclid=Cj0KCQjwpNr4BRDYARIsAADIx9yETphe5Z0QXGPT0f3n5gk6nwoKmEYf96t2EnjmZ90T30KcKUR7Wq8aAlwGEALw_wcB&amp;amp;gclsrc=aw.ds&amp;amp;mtc=Shopping-BA-F_HDH-G-D59-59_34_INTERIOR_FURNITURE-MULTI-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-Accent&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;metal stiffeners&lt;/a&gt; in between the cleats.  I'm thinking 3 or 5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;ripping some walnut to fit very snugly between the cleats and secure them to the table with glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please let me know if any of these would work and which one you think would be better.  Also, if I am overlooking anything please let me know.  THank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8951" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2020-07-27T15:32:44.270" LastActivityDate="2020-07-27T15:32:44.270" Title="Flexing in middle of 3/4&quot; walnut table top" Tags="|technique|tabletop|strength|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10853" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10854" CreationDate="2020-07-22T03:53:34.477" Score="1" ViewCount="210" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've built this table as well as quickly sanded and lightly stained the top. It works well for a platform to eat from but is mostly unsuitable for preparing food, particular dough kneading (and scraping) operations. Examine the 3 images and note that the dough scraper (black handle, silver scraper) is 6 inches in length. After looking at these images, continue reading the text following the last one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jD83x.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jD83x.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dXRh2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dXRh2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HEOy0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HEOy0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what kind of wood I used for this project. Note that there are small cracks throughout the tabletop and the small void spaces between each plank. Given all this info, what materials do I need to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;seal the wood cracks/voids - thereby make it basically impermeable for things like flour and wet dough and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;toughen the surface so it can handle direct, heavy contact with tools like a dough scraper?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8937" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2020-07-22T10:28:04.763" LastActivityDate="2020-07-22T17:03:10.800" Title="Ruggedizing eating table for dough-working operations" Tags="|staining|sanding|tabletop|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10853" CreationDate="2020-07-22T06:31:34.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what kind of wood I used for this project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's pine, spruce, or fir. Those are used interchangeably in construction. These look like boards you might’ve purchased at a place like Home Depot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;seal the wood cracks/voids - thereby make it basically impermeable for things like flour and wet dough and 2) toughen the surface&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Surface:&lt;/strong&gt; The wood you used is quite soft, which is why it’s easily scratched by the scraper. There’s not much you can do to change that. You could put a finish like polyurethane on it, but that won’t stand up to the mechanical abuse from the scraper either, and in the end it’ll probably look worse. You could use a very thick epoxy-like finish of the sort that’s used for bar tops, and that’d also fill the joints, but it would really change the nature of the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think your best bet is to just get a better work surface that you can place on top of the table, and don’t try to turn the table itself into something that it’s not. Marble is a great surface for working with dough of all kinds — its easy to scrape clean with a bench scraper when you’re working with a sticky bread dough, and it doesn’t heat up quickly, so it’s great for rolling out pastry dough. Stop at your local stone and marble dealer and see if they’ve got any smallish offcuts. A piece about 30” square and 3/4” thick would be very good — large enough to work on, light enough to move when you’re not using it. Color doesn’t matter, just get whatever a) they have, that’s b) very smooth on both sides, and c) not too expensive. Broken corners and chipped edges also don’t matter. This will be a far better work surface than you could ever get from your table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gaps:&lt;/strong&gt; Since this is the woodworking group, I'll point out that the way the boards in the table top are attached, with nails at the edges of the boards, makes the boards more likely to split or cup with seasonal changes in humidity. Also, it looks like the boards aren't glued together -- that'll help with the movement part, but it means that seasonal movement will result in the gaps that you're seeing. A good solution would be to pull the nails out, joint the edges (you can use a router for that if you don't have a jointer), and glue them edge to edge. Then, fill the nail holes and attach the top to the table from the bottom in a way that allows for movement, such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/attaching-a-table-top-with-traditional-wooden-buttons/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;buttons&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rockler.com/table-top-fasteners&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hardware meant for the same purpose&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2020-07-22T16:12:59.933" LastActivityDate="2020-07-22T16:12:59.933" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10848" CreationDate="2020-07-22T09:53:43.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the difference between the jointer blade and the smoothing blade?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would have thought this was covered in the text. I haven't had the chance to read&#xA;&lt;em&gt;The Anarchist's Tool Chest&lt;/em&gt; but I would imagine elsewhere it describes the different ways an iron can be set up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are they ground to different bevel angles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No it's not about the bevel angle, it's about the edge profile&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. I'll post an illustration for clarify, &lt;strong&gt;but future readers please note&lt;/strong&gt; these are just &lt;em&gt;an&lt;/em&gt; example of how to profile various plane's irons, read on for more details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SOqrQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SOqrQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Iron profiles 1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/16-tips-for-sharpening/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;15 Tips for Sharpening&lt;/a&gt; by Tom Caspar on &lt;strong&gt;Popular Woodworking&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Smoothers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Smoothing-plane irons are usually prepared so that they are either straight, with the corners relieved (rounded off) which is how Paul Sellers shows how to prepare a no. 4's iron, or with a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; shallow camber. A camber is where the whole edge is curved, corner to corner; don't confuse it with a cambered bevel, which is a completely separate thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that on a smoother's iron the rounded profile can be so slight that the two corners are just a few thou lower than the centre of the edge, meaning the curvature is barely perceptible to the eye when looking straight down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Jointers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;There is again no one way that the irons for jointer planes are set up, it depends on the tradition the user is following or was trained up in. Many older texts suggest that jointers should be the only bench plane where the iron's edge is dead straight, without relieved corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But many modern users have a subtle camber on theirs, as a means of squaring a non-90° edge by shifting the plane to right or left on the edge to take off the high side&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, thusly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r6IYl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r6IYl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cambered iron to square edge&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/bench-planes-the-system-of-three/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bench Planes: The System of Three&lt;/a&gt; by Chris Schwarz on &lt;strong&gt;Popular Woodworking&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;David Charlesworth is a big proponent of this idea and has done a lot to promote the idea in his teachings and writings. Also note he has a few videos on YouTube that are well worth checking out, and you can see the man himself demonstrate the now-famous &amp;quot;Charlesworth ruler trick&amp;quot;. &lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Although it is possible to use different bevel angles on planes for different purposes, it's quite normal to use the typical/usual 25-30° for basically everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; These days it is sometimes said that this is the &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; way to do this, but that's misleading of course — the woodworkers in the previously mentioned tradition obviously were (and still are) able to square their edges just fine without a cambered iron!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Although he did not in fact originate the basic idea, nobody has done more to educate on how and why you might choose to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-07-22T09:53:43.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10856" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-22T16:53:39.560" Score="0" ViewCount="1109" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m using a Bosch 1617 on a Kreg Router Table. Should I ever let me router “rest” or cool down?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently, I turn it on, make a pass, then turn it off and get prepped for my next pass or next piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8840" LastActivityDate="2020-08-14T17:01:31.163" Title="Should I give my router a “break” between passes?" Tags="|router|router-table|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10853" CreationDate="2020-07-22T17:03:10.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Great answers but there was one point I didn't see mentioned so I thought I would chime in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The work surface&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's either pine or fir. A very soft wood, so even without cracks it will dent and scratch easily.  Nothing less than epoxy will chemically seal it for more than a few uses. The stuff used on bar finishes is extremely hard, but a dough scraper will be able to scrape it if you are not careful. What will most certainly happen is the finish will fade unevenly where it is used most, so go with a matte finish. It's also quite expensive and not food grade.  If you do use it, you will need extra for the cracks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Offcuts of other stones or creating a laminated hardwood surface would be a better option. Here are a couple options&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Laminated hardwood: I've made working table tops out of 1&amp;quot;x2&amp;quot; maple which came out nicely and took a lot of abuse, but it will take a while to finish if you don't have a surface plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soapstone: would be the best choice for a stone surface.  It can be cut with a diamond blade;  extremely dense; chemically inert; you can sand it as smooth as you want; extremely hard; heat, even large amounts of heat won't affect it (think hot baking stone).  It can be scratched but scratched can be sanded out easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Marble: is soft and may be easier on your hands.  Chemicals and residual water will stain it.  It can be scratched fairly easily, I've never tried sanding it but I don't think it works.  It also doesn't handle heat well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost any other stone would probably need to be cut for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stainless: Easy to clean, good stainless steel (ex 304) is resistant to many chemicals and won't rust at room temperatures with typical household chemicals.  Just make sure it is a thick enough gauge to handle the compressions of the kneeding.  I wouldn't consider something &amp;gt; 14ga&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The support&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't see many photo's of the base but you may want to add diagonal cross members if you do not have them.  On a residential kitchen counter, the plywood box helps counter lateral forces common in kneading dough.  An open table with all vertical and horizontal members doesn't provide the same support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4323" LastActivityDate="2020-07-22T17:03:10.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10856" CreationDate="2020-07-22T17:23:11.363" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I normally always switch off all my power tools in between setup and next pass especially when working with large pieces. The power switch is located and convenient to access. So turning off the tool is more for safety. All prep work would mean the power tool is turned off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a router underneath the router table, without a separate convenient switch location, this may not be easily done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am building a router table now, that will have an easy-to-reach push cutoff switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your specific question about cooling, you should not be feeding the router that hard that it requires a cooling-off period. If you see that the router is starting to heat up, then a cooling off period is needed. Your router may cool off faster with the router on with the fan blowing air through the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8556" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-07-23T18:23:03.690" LastActivityDate="2020-07-23T18:23:03.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10856" CreationDate="2020-07-22T18:12:14.243" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The motor/bearings in the router aren't generally much of a concern for overheating.  However, router bits can definitely overheat.  Particularly, if you're using a high speed steel (HSS) bit overheating it will cause it to loose hardness and dull very quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbide is generally able to dissipate heat better than HSS, but if you get them too hot they will be more prone to chipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2020-07-22T18:12:14.243" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10860" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-23T15:04:29.653" Score="0" ViewCount="276" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a workbench with a beech countertop.&#xA;Originally I was going to finish the countertop with varnish on the bottom and linseed oil on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I noticed that this workbench is too big to be stored inside, so I will be storing it outside. I'll put a cover over it, but it's still somewhat going to be exposed to the elements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know varnish has a much better protection outside, but it's not ideal for a workbench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What finish would you use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Answering a couple of questions from the comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rest of the workbench is made from plywood. I've already covered it with three layers of clear varnish&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bottom of the countertop I'll do with the same clear varnish&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm planning on making some foldable extensions to the bench such that I can keep the cover from touching the top. Would that prevent mould?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8877" LastEditorUserId="8877" LastEditDate="2020-07-24T07:34:00.360" LastActivityDate="2020-07-24T07:41:25.187" Title="Best finish for an outdoor woodworking bench" Tags="|finishing|finish-selection|workbench|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10860" CreationDate="2020-07-23T16:47:24.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the bottom, you may want to look into a spar varnish or even a spar urethane if that is an option (some people just don't like urethane for whatever reason).  These types of finishes were originally used in the marine finishing world.  Really anything designed for marine use would work, but epoxies and the like can get pricey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like Minwax's Helmsman series for exterior applications since it's also available in a spray can.  Just remember to use several thin layers versus trying to get it all on at once.  It can get gummy looking of you don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the top, I'm guessing that you're trying to stay away from a finish that will harden.  That's a little tougher. Here's an article that I look back to often, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodcraft.com/blog_entries/clear-outdoor-finishes#&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.woodcraft.com/blog_entries/clear-outdoor-finishes#&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8960" LastActivityDate="2020-07-23T16:47:24.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10862" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-23T17:00:03.073" Score="1" ViewCount="671" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a 30&amp;quot;x80&amp;quot; daybed with a simple rectangular structure for the frame. I plan to use 2x6 pine cut to length for the frame. Please do not try to talk me out of the pine, I already have it and know there are better wood options :) The boards on the frame will lay flat and be joined at the four intersections by glued and screwed half-laps. The slats between the boards will be Ikea slats cut to size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does my design seem sound? What's the best method for joining the slats to the frame? I plan to order steel legs online for the legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1CXQS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1CXQS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Frame plan&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8961" LastEditorUserId="8961" LastEditDate="2020-07-23T19:22:10.367" LastActivityDate="2020-07-23T20:18:27.653" Title="Half-lap joints for day-bed build?" Tags="|furniture|design|planning|joints|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="17" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10862" CreationDate="2020-07-23T17:56:23.850" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;An edit with a sketch image was added after i wrote the answer below.&#xA;As designed in the sketch i would add legs under the half lap joints in the middle. One leg under each joint&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using 2x6 boards laid flat is not a sound plan. They will be much to flexy and will sag significantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically a slat bed has a box frame with a cleat on the inside that the slats sit on, they may or may not be secured to the cleat. You will need a center support for the slats that is the same height as the cleat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have options for the joinery at the corners, you can use a leg to help strengthen that joint. There are many options and some research will help you decide on something within you abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many times the slats are connected together with web strapping. Such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wayfair.com/bed-bath/pdp/alwyn-home-snyder-folding-wood-slats-w001385528.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do a web search for &lt;a href=&quot;https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffsb&amp;amp;q=diy%20slat%20bed%20frame&amp;amp;iax=images&amp;amp;ia=images&amp;amp;iai=https%3A%2F%2Fhomeisd.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2018%2F03%2Fbuild-your-own-king-slat-bed-for-150-from-kiwi-an-280489883027120987-e1521822610475.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;slat bed frame&lt;/a&gt; you find many different ways or designs to accomplish your goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an illustration from tutorial on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ana-white.com/woodworking-projects/modern-platform-bed-frame-chunky-legs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ana-White.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GstDP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GstDP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2917" LastEditorUserId="2917" LastEditDate="2020-07-23T20:18:27.653" LastActivityDate="2020-07-23T20:18:27.653" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10864" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-23T21:00:47.357" Score="1" ViewCount="2100" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to improve the sound insulation in my garage shop, and I gather that Sound Transmission Class (STC) ratings of different soundproofing solutions vary as function of Hz levels of sounds. I have read that the loudest machines like planers and table saws have relatively lower Hz levels, but I can't find any tables offering range of HZ levels to expect for planers vs table saws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2394" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2020-07-23T23:41:29.877" LastActivityDate="2020-08-02T21:13:27.017" Title="What are the sound frequencies (Hz) of common woodworking machines?" Tags="|table-saw|thickness-planer|shop|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10864" CreationDate="2020-07-24T17:27:21.257" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you've clarified that you're trying to keep down the noise eminating out through the garage doors, consider a vinyl strip curtain of both the pedestrian and vehicle doors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MR0LP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MR0LP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from strip-curtains.com, found via an eBay link. No endorsement intended or implied&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because they're flexible, they'll absorb a lot of the air movement generated by the tool motors and cutters (the source of sound), but because they're individual strips, they'll allow the wind to push them around some to allow some cooling air flow. &lt;em&gt;Some...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may have to put up some sort of horizontal track like a vertical blind to move them out of the way when you need to use the garage door for silly things like parking a car. (You'd have to move the tools out of the way, you sure you want to do that?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2020-07-24T17:27:21.257" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10869" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10882" CreationDate="2020-07-24T17:58:43.967" Score="0" ViewCount="1822" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in making a planet puzzle for my toddler, and I'm wondering what woods I can use. The plan is to have a relatively large puzzle (3'x1') with large pieces (~20 including the planets). I have access to most woodworking tools/saws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8968" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-07-24T18:40:29.040" LastActivityDate="2022-09-01T07:52:30.873" Title="What type of wood can be used for a jigsaw puzzle?" Tags="|wood|wood-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10870" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-24T20:47:01.947" Score="2" ViewCount="1277" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am designing a 5'x6.5' loft bed. 4-5 years down the line, I'd like to be able to remove (or trim) and throw away legs ( and any under-bed furniture) and be able to use it as a regular bed afterwards. This is a DIY project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will primarily be used by my 5 year old, but should be capable of handling at least 1 adult's weight also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for help to determine if the legs, as designed, would hold up for the purpose.&#xA;If not, what would be possible leg design I could make up with 3/4 inch plywood that can do the job. I prefer to use only one kind of raw-material, because of limited tools I have available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Design details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall assembly is shown in following images:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NyCwu.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NyCwu.png&quot; alt=&quot;full assembly-angle-1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/thsQI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/thsQI.png&quot; alt=&quot;full-assembly-angle-2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The legs are also supported at bottom as shown in first image.&#xA;There will be one desk, one two-seat-bench and one long shelf above these supports. Behind all those furniture, I'll add additional vertical supports (at least 12 high&amp;quot;) to legs, hopefully arresting any racking. Legs will not be bearing weight of any furniture other than bed frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Legs assembly and attachment are as shown in following image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nRdyh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nRdyh.png&quot; alt=&quot;leg assembly&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each leg is L-shaped corner assembly of two pieces 64&amp;quot;x5.5&amp;quot; plywood sheets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have sketched up two possible corner joints as shown in second image:&#xA;(left) with 6 inch thick laps/fingers joint with a 8mm dowel every 6 inches and&#xA;(right) finger joint with 1 inch fingers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleats are glued and screwed to bed-frame. Legs will insert into cleat+frame corners as shown. Legs will be bolted to frame with 8pcs M6 bolts in each corner. Frame will have a D-nut insert for each bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel that rest of design would be OK, but I am not able to find any resources on strength of plywood in the configuration as being used in legs. So, not sure if legs would hold up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Update-1]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Updated full assembly diagrams to show positioning of stairs, and internal structure panels added for arresting racking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Update-2]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New leg design, made from 4pcs of 3&amp;quot; wide plywood arranged as a hollow square. How would this compare to a solid leg made of 4 pcs of 3&amp;quot; plywood pieces laminated together? I believe hollow tube would be stronger than solid core, if cross-section area is same (can't recall where I heard that)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z2qmf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z2qmf.png&quot; alt=&quot;hollow-square-leg&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8969" LastEditorUserId="8969" LastEditDate="2020-07-27T08:08:15.517" LastActivityDate="2020-07-27T15:49:30.210" Title="Legs from 3/4 plywood.. load capacity" Tags="|plywood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="21" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10872" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10873" CreationDate="2020-07-25T12:13:56.347" Score="4" ViewCount="590" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a 1940's Craftsman table saw off Craigslist, I think it's a model 103.0213 (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1189180/Craftsman-103-0213.html#manual&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;manual here&lt;/a&gt;).  I've been stripping the rust off of it, revamping the electrical for the switch, all sorts of stuff to make it safer and usable, and I've come to the blade.  Here's a picture of it:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/byJB4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/byJB4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blade looks like it's 7.5&amp;quot;, and not in terrible shape (but I'd still love to replace it with a new one).  From what I've read online, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.finewoodworking.com/forum/old-craftsman-table-saw-1940s-1-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;some people have trouble getting new blades to fit&lt;/a&gt;.  I'll be honest though, I get kinda lost in the lingo of their descriptions. I apologize for my helplessness on that. Would somebody please explain to me in plain English how to put a newer saw blade on?  And obviously I'm looking for safe(r) and new, but at the same time I'm just a weekend hobbyist so I'm also looking for fairly economical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8133" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2020-08-14T18:06:05.583" LastActivityDate="2020-08-14T18:06:05.583" Title="Putting new blade on 1940's table saw" Tags="|table-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10872" CreationDate="2020-07-25T13:28:37.990" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;To define the lingo:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Arbor&lt;/strong&gt; is the threaded shaft that comes out of the motor onto which the saw blade is mounted.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Arbor Washer&lt;/strong&gt; goes around the arbor, just like the saw blade does, but is much smaller in diameter than the blade and doesn't have any teeth. Some saws have a washer on each side of the blade, some only have one on the &amp;quot;outside&amp;quot; of the blade (away from the motor).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Arbor Nut&lt;/strong&gt; goes onto the arbor after the blade and washer have gone on. This gets tightened down (often is a reverse, or left-hand thread) to hold the blade in place. Do note: It's been a while since I've changed a table saw blade, so I may be confusing that with my miter saw arbor nut threading.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since you seem to have a good view of the threads, look to see if they if they're regular or reverse thread. If they're reverse, you'll drive yourself nuts trying to loosen with &amp;quot;righty-tighty, lefty-loosey&amp;quot; since it would be &amp;quot;lefty-tighty, righty-loosey.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Blade&lt;/strong&gt; that's the sharp, round, spinny thing that separates fingers from hands. (Said tongue-in-cheek - but if you didn't know that, please step away from the saw, now.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the link you provided, it looks like the major issue is that this saw has a 1/2&amp;quot; arbor and most modern 7 1/4&amp;quot; circular saw blades (which is probably what you'd need to use - you'd probably have to search long and hard to find 7 1/2&amp;quot; blades, if that is actually the measurement) are designed for a 5/8&amp;quot; arbor. If you put a modern blade on there, it'll be a sloppy fit with that extra 1/8&amp;quot; of play. Sure, you could crank the arbor nut down in an attempt to hold the blade in place, but with the torque applied to the blade when it hits wood, I wouldn't count on it holding safely. Even if it did, I wouldn't count on a nice, true cut from it. And, when you put the blade on, all the extra 1/8&amp;quot; of room would be at the bottom since gravity will be on and it will pull the blade down so the arbor hole sits on the arbor itself. Once you've got it tightened down, you fire up the saw and the blade bounces as it spins out of round - not exactly a safe situation, either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, you'll need an adapter to accommodate a modern blade with a 5/8&amp;quot; arbor. I hit up my favorite internet search engine with&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;saw arbor adapter 1/2 5/8&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and came up with a variety of options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was this post at the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bobvila.com/posts/42058-1-2-to-5-8-arbor-adapter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bob Vila forum&lt;/a&gt; (from 2005) that has several on-line references and a recommendation to cut a thin piece of copper tubing to use as a bushing. (I'm not sure I'd go with that one, see cautions above).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There were a &lt;em&gt;wide&lt;/em&gt; variety of arbor adapters to allow blades with a 1&amp;quot; arbor to work on a 5/8&amp;quot; arbor - make sure you avoid those, that's not the adaptation you're after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many of the adapters I found seem to be for hole saws and angle grinders, so without making any recommendation (and at the risk of being down-voted for providing shopping info) I'll list a couple of options, just to ensure you're on the right track:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mcmaster.com/68885A64/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;McMaster-Carr&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;this one is a ring that fits within the saw blade itself (makes the copper pipe adapter seem more reasonable, though this one is steel).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you'd need a handful for different blades, or to carefully transfer this one to each different blade you're going to use.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0052IP99C&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This one threads onto the arbor and gives you a new arbor diameter with new threads for a different arbor nut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A new arbor nut should be fairly easy to find as that &lt;em&gt;seems&lt;/em&gt; to be the modern standard. I'd suggest taking your adapter in to your local hardware store and ask to borrow the arbor nut off of one or two of their table saws to ensure the threading is correct, then purchase a replacement arbor nut from them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep the old one off your Craftsman as a souvenir/for authenticity (you never know when it'll become a collector's item).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I went with an adapter like this, I'd put some thread locker on between the old arbor and the adapter, just to help keep it in place while tightening and loosening the arbor nut. Essentially, it becomes part of the tool.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-07-26T05:01:19.100" LastActivityDate="2020-07-26T05:01:19.100" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10875" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-26T06:18:16.357" Score="0" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a set of standing shelves that are built from standard home store 2x10&amp;quot;s. I wanted to repurpose the shelf as a place for my houseplants. When I water the plants, there is a lot of drainage water that seeps through the pot's holes. I am trying to devise a way to drill a hole in the middle of each shelf and then bore/hollow out a very shallow decline in each of the shelves, so the water drains like a sink (almost like this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://cdn.homedit.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/JM-Lifestyle-wood-wash-basin.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://cdn.homedit.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/JM-Lifestyle-wood-wash-basin.jpg&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a lathe, so I was thinking I could do this with an angle grinder (or perhaps a dremel tool?). Does anyone have suggestions on how best to accomplish this? I only have hand tools and am nervous about making the sink uneven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8974" LastActivityDate="2020-07-26T06:18:16.357" Title="How bore out a shallow sink into a 2x10&quot;?" Tags="|furniture|hand-tools|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10876" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-26T17:21:28.773" Score="1" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am setting up my new home shop and am considering a &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0838CN2JL&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;smallish yellow metal chemical safe&lt;/a&gt; to store alcohol, varnish, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if I would not be better off for fire safety and indoor air quality just storing this all outside of the house on a shaded north face of my house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2394" LastActivityDate="2020-07-26T18:44:38.100" Title="Advice on safely storing chemicals outside" Tags="|finishing|safety|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10876" CreationDate="2020-07-26T18:14:03.927" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Billions of chemicals are stored correctly and safely indoors all over the planet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it does not freeze or get very hot in your area and you can safely lock it up to prevent children or pests from access them then go for it. &lt;em&gt;Temperature is a consideration for some chemicals.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2917" LastEditorUserId="2917" LastEditDate="2020-07-26T18:44:38.100" LastActivityDate="2020-07-26T18:44:38.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10878" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-26T21:57:59.180" Score="1" ViewCount="171" Body="&lt;p&gt;We removed the old handrail that was not up to code and didn't reach the first step of the stairs as required.  We have a traditional guardrail installed on one side and we are having difficulties trying to find a good method of continuous transition on the other side, that has a wall angled 45 deg away with the first two steps. The handrail needs to terminate on the first step, not near the third.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since we have traditional handrails, we can't make a simple miter cut because the short piece's top orientation will start to point away from the wall. With circular handrails, this is not a problem as there's not top/bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can we get a good/decent transition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stair slope: 41.5 deg&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inner angle of walls: 135 deg leveled (following the handrail path, the inner angle becomes 145 deg)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xouqw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xouqw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://photos.app.goo.gl/4XKAhQEGqijCK1JG8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stairs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4q6ey.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4q6ey.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://photos.app.goo.gl/379TDWbYPQ1idfQw8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Trouble wall&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9gD2r.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9gD2r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://photos.app.goo.gl/zh3YtKBumnnUF5PL8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Example cut showing rotation needed to remain upright and proper distance&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LVFvS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LVFvS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://photos.app.goo.gl/11Vn7GaCGSJBYA5CA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Traditional handrails being used.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8979" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2020-07-27T17:40:37.167" LastActivityDate="2020-07-27T18:00:49.203" Title="How to make Handrail Transitions with Rotation?" Tags="|cutting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10870" CreationDate="2020-07-27T15:49:30.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The square legs would be considerably stronger than just the 2-sided legs, but honestly what is wrong with using 2x4's for the legs? You only have to cut them to length and you can nail 2 together for added strength if you want.  On top of that you can cover them up with the plywood if you want to have that look, without all the trouble of putting finger joints in plywood.  Now if you're using 1&amp;quot; plywood, maybe, but then the cost would be cheaper at that point to go with 2x4's and cover them with cheaper 1/4&amp;quot; plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;unfortunately I don't have numbers to back it up, but plywood legs makes me itch with 'not safe'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the other issue I see, are not enough triangles to keep things from 'racking', unless you plan to run some lag bolts into the wall on 2 sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2020-07-27T15:49:30.210" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10878" CreationDate="2020-07-27T18:00:49.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe a perfect matchup is not possible, but you may get close if the joint line cut is full vertical and has equal 22.5/67.f degree angles on each piece. Note that since the short piece changes direction, its slope descending the stairs will be shallower. This means that the vertical angle of the cuts and overall height will differ between the 2 pieces. A little work using a file should get you an acceptable appearance. Align the top and hide the differences at the underside. For me, this cut would definitely involve several mockup tests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2020-07-27T18:00:49.203" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7334" CreationDate="2020-07-27T20:38:43.293" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So get a bunch and stack them. Maybe 4-6 and make a modular ‘Wynn’ there’s a guy who did it on YouTube and had decent results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8982" LastActivityDate="2020-07-27T20:38:43.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10869" CreationDate="2020-07-28T10:20:35.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to go with a solid wood then a close-grained or tight-grained (these mean the same thing) hardwood would be ideal. There are numerous suitable species you can select from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hardwood&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Judging by your use of Imperial units in the Question I'm guessing you're American so maple is likely to be available to you at a reasonable price and it's a domestic hardwood, so more green/sustainable than many alternatives if that appeals to you&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maple comes in two broad types, hard maple and soft maple. Both are hard hardwoods. As you'd expect hard maple is harder, but soft maple is more than tough enough for this application, in addition to often being cheaper. So if you have a choice I'd go with the latter. In general it'll be noticeably easier to cut than hard maple, which may be a significant factor depending on how you will be cutting your puzzle pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other options include birch, poplar (a little of the soft side), and cherry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ply&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I say IF using solid wood to begin with because plywood is an option. From what I've seen many large-piece modern wooden jigsaws are made from a good type and grade of hardwood ply. Birch plywood is often the best available in any given location, with the tightest construction and fewest internal flaws (perhaps none).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I heard of it only yesterday on Ron Paulk's YouTube channel I'll mention a new plywood, called Premcore®Plus. It's available with either maple or birch veneers, in a wide range of thicknesses. Paulk says it is the best plywood he's ever used, while being cheaper than many competitor products!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Far fewer carbon miles, no worries about depleting a badly-managed tropical source of hardwoods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-07-28T10:20:35.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10883" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-28T11:36:09.683" Score="0" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have lots of softwood so I am making some garden furniture. I know that this is not ideal in terms of how long it will last, painting and rotting, am I right to be concerned?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8965" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2020-07-29T10:40:11.493" LastActivityDate="2020-08-08T14:42:48.700" Title="Can I use softwood for garden furniture?" Tags="|wood|wood-selection|softwood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10883" CreationDate="2020-07-28T15:00:54.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used treated southern pine for a built in bench ( 20 ft long) on a deck of the same material . The bench if fine after 20 years but the deck has had a couple bad spots because it it wet longer than the bench. So soft wood can work fine or not;depending on the wood,treatment ,and how much time it is wet. ( Southern pine -US- , is one of the hardest softwoods.). Stain /water repellent , will work better than paint for exposed wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3966" LastActivityDate="2020-07-28T15:00:54.357" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10883" CreationDate="2020-07-29T02:08:06.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also have access to lots of wood. I made some benches and table from it and stained for better visual effect, as well as garden beds from untreated wood of all kind. It already lasted two years and it looks like a couple more years will be OK. Since the wood is available and doesn't cost anything - I see no reason to worry how long it will last, just make a new item in 5 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8990" LastActivityDate="2020-07-29T02:08:06.663" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10889" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-30T01:09:56.877" Score="2" ViewCount="393" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a loooong table top (11 ft) out of a butcher's Block. I'm trying to end up with a black tabletop with hints of gray/blue in the tones of the wood, sort of like this chair:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6wajj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6wajj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was told that European Alder is a good, cheap wood that'd take ebonization well with India ink. I would appreciate if someone with more experience could detail the steps needed and advise on the choice of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking to take butchers block, sand down with 220 grit sandpaper, wipe clean, rub India ink on with cloth. After that what type of finish can I use? Varnish? Waterlox? The table will be used as a computer desk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8992" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-07-30T09:57:51.477" LastActivityDate="2021-10-02T21:07:55.717" Title="What's a good wood to ebonize for a desk top?" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10889" CreationDate="2020-07-30T01:29:19.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Butcher blocks can be made from any wood although I would recommend a hardwood.  Oak, walnut, or maple come to mind.  Oak has a pronounced grain and the wood will express more visually.  Maple or walnut are more closed grain and should give a more uniform appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't speak to the permanence and uniformity of ink, so I would recommend using a dye such as TransFast black powdered dye. There are other dye colors worthy of consideration as well. Dissolve it in denatured alcohol. Water can raise the grain requiring additional sanding which, of course, can re-expose natural wood color, where alcohol will not. Use a test board to determine how concentrated you want the mix and how many coats give you an even finish.  The pigments in dyes are much smaller than in stains and allow the natural beauty of the wood grain to be expressed while achieving a deep rich color, where stains actually can hide the grain more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your 220 grit sandpaper should be adequate, although you may want to go for a final of 320 and steel wool to finish it off.  Use a sanding block or powered sander to insure a flat surface is maintained. If you have access to a paint sprayer you can achieve a better result than with a brush.  Although a mix of 1/3 each of linseed oil,, varnish and mineral spirits can be applied with a rag (it may take 3-6 coats to achieve your final finished appearance).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2020-07-30T01:39:29.617" LastActivityDate="2020-07-30T01:39:29.617" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10892" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-30T17:04:49.023" Score="0" ViewCount="174" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to tidy up the bottom edge of a wooden door threshold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never used a router but I thought it would be the perfect tool for this, running the router along the top edge of the door sill and cutting away rotten timber along the bottom edge. Sounds simple, I just have to buy the appropriate router bit. But after some fruitless searching I am at a loss to find the bit I need. I guess I need a slot cutter bit (&lt;em&gt;to cut away the underside of the sill&lt;/em&gt;)  with a shank mounted bearing (&lt;em&gt;to run along the top edge of the sill&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found template edge trim bits that look a bit like that (&lt;em&gt;but the bearings are are all flush with the cutting edge&lt;/em&gt;) but was surprised that nothing off-the-shelf seems to be made (&lt;em&gt;I could add a bearing and collar to the shank of a cutter bit but this does not seem to be recommended&lt;/em&gt;). All the guided cutter bits use an end bearing. I could use a guide fixed to the back edge of the step I suppose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that the best solution or is a router the wrong tool for the job (&lt;em&gt;there is no space for a circular saw etc though a multi-tool cutter could do it&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2XaC5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2XaC5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;threshold&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8995" LastEditorUserId="2917" LastEditDate="2020-08-04T14:06:29.063" LastActivityDate="2020-08-04T14:06:29.063" Title="Basic router/bit question" Tags="|router|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10893" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-31T11:02:21.407" Score="0" ViewCount="423" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a workbench and I have started drilling the dog holes using a drill guide and a 19mm (3/4&amp;quot;) forstner bit.&#xA;I'm not exactly sure what went wrong, but a couple of the dog holes are not plumb.&#xA;The thickness of the top is 38mm and I've drilled them to about 3mm before exiting on the bottom. I planned to use a router with a template bit to finish the cut so not to damage the bottom with tear-out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the ones that are perfectly plumb, I think that'll still work, but I'm a bit worried about the ones that aren't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I use the template bit in the router, because the hole is not plumb, the bit will bite into a lot of wood at once and I'm not sure whether this is safe to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have any advice on how to proceed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8877" LastActivityDate="2020-07-31T19:56:35.103" Title="Fixing skew dog holes" Tags="|router|workbench|bench-dogs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10893" CreationDate="2020-07-31T19:11:59.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;How not plumb are they? And in what direction? Even if the router works fine your holes will be sort of oval shaped at the bottom which might make your dogs waggle around annoyingly in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I would glue 19mm dowels into your bad holes. You might want to drill a small hole all the way through first to let the glue escape and avoid hydraulic lock. Once it has set you can cut off the top and level it. Then start drilling again from scratch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if they are only very slightly out of plumb you should be fine. Unless I misunderstand you, the router will only be taking small amounts off gradually as you plunge. It might struggle with the last 3mm if you have a straight fluted bit as they dont really cut in the very centre. Avoid this problem by drilling a small hole through the center first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm familiar with those long, 19mm router bits though and don't like them very much. A friend had one kickback and he dropped the router on his leg. It removed what the doctor described as &amp;quot;a satsuma sized chunk of flesh and bone&amp;quot; from his thigh. They deserve a lot of respect. I'd consider clamping the router down to the workbench before making each plunge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3343" LastActivityDate="2020-07-31T19:11:59.850" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10893" CreationDate="2020-07-31T19:14:33.310" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is more than one way to avoid tear out. You can drill a small pilot hole all the way through then use your forstner bit to drill from both sides meeting somewhere in the middle. I would choose this method over a router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way is to attach a piece of scrap wood to the bottom of bench where the hole will be drilled so when the drill bit is exiting the bench top it enters the scrap wood thereby avoiding tear out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the holes that are not plumb i think for a bench dog hole 3mm of off plumb is negligible and &lt;strong&gt;if the rest  of the hole, &lt;em&gt;35mm&lt;/em&gt;,  is straight and plumb&lt;/strong&gt;, the dog will be fine. Drill the remaining part straight and true from the underside. (&lt;em&gt;Put a piece of scrap over the misaligned hole and run the forstner bit, from the bottom, all the way up through the previously drilled 3mm to clear any material that would cause a bench dog to not line up correctly.&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2917" LastEditorUserId="2917" LastEditDate="2020-07-31T19:56:35.103" LastActivityDate="2020-07-31T19:56:35.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10897" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-01T23:00:12.367" Score="1" ViewCount="197" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry if I am not using the right terminology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are trying to build a piece of TV stand furniture. In our design, we have partitions which we want to cover their face with wood pieces crafted in the shape of long wide-angled prisms where at the top and the bottom they overlap with the beveled frames of the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8YWOY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8YWOY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xIup9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xIup9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have tried different techniques but so far we were unsuccessful to get these pieces right. Any suggestions on the proper technique to make these pieces?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9000" LastActivityDate="2020-08-03T16:25:25.157" Title="How to make a knife edge like symmetric bevel" Tags="|technique|bevels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10892" CreationDate="2020-08-01T23:15:43.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If this was my job, I wouldn't walk out to the garage and steal the bearing and lockring from a template bit. (The biggest issue is that the shank on any normal rabbeting bit isn't long enough to reach where you want while keeping the collet off the existing wood.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd consider cutting the top surface clean off (at the line of the door would make sense), then attaching a replacement bit of nosing (glue/screw). That could be done with a combination of a circular saw plus multitool/chisel. (If you want an excuse to buy a router, then use a straight cutter with a guide that the base rides against.) If your cut is imperfect, use a void filling glue like an epoxy. If you want to be fancy, put a drip kerf on the replacement nosing. This exercise will also tell you if the threshold is rotten through and through and in need of complete replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To specifically address your comment about a freehand slot cutting bit, that would work, but only if the shank was really long. Otherwise, you won't have enough of the shank seated in the collet and that can go very bad very quick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2020-08-01T23:15:43.377" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10864" CreationDate="2020-08-01T23:49:46.927" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an audio spectrogram app on my tablet, so I took it into my workshop and made a couple of measurements, using the power tools I had setup for a project (table saw, orbital power sander, and trim router; don't have a power planer, sorry). I used all softwood material (18mm pine), kept the tablet about 1m from the tool, and decoupled it from the workbench with a bit of foam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My workshop is only about 4.5m by 7m, and has concrete floor/ceiling, sandstone walls and glass door/windows all around, so there's plenty of reflections; really not an ideal environment for any type of sound measurements: levels will be off in general (on the louder side), and some frequencies will be attenuated while others are amplified. So I don't know how useful the results will be for your sound isolation problem; different tools (make and model) will certainly sound different, too. But it's at least one data point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JE6Ly.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JE6Lyt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Spectrogram Tablesaw&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UUBN6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UUBN6t.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Spectrogram Powersander&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6ifid.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6ifidt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Spectrogram Router&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how you read those graphs (click on them to open full size). The upper third shows the audio spectrum (log-frequency on the x-axis, logarithmic sound pressure spectral density in dB/Hz on the y axis); yellow is current (updates every 25ms), red is max hold for the entire measurement. The lower part shows a waterfall diagram of the spectrum over time: log-frequency is on the x-axis, time is on the y-axis (going up, so further down the graph is older), sound pressure spectral density is color coded using the log color scale shown on the left; higher sound pressure is shown in a brighter color. I've set it up so that the ull time range of the waterfall is about 10s. Since sound level is in dB, because of the logarithm a change by only 6dB is equivalent to double or half the noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the first image, I first turned on the table saw, then added the dust extractor (big shop vac) a couple of seconds later, then did three quick crosscuts in 18mm pine, and finally shut the table saw and the vac off at the same time. There's plenty of sound energy all across the spectrum even with the saw just idling. The cuts add very distinct high frequency noise, you can even see the frequency going down a bit during the cut as it puts load on the motor. The dust collector doesn't register all that much on the graphs, even though subjectively it makes a lot of noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same story in the second image: I first turned on the orbital sander, then the dust extractor, then lightly sanded a piece of pine using 80 grit sand paper. The waterfall shows a strong fundamental at 200Hz (my power is 50Hz), with plenty of harmonics up to about 5kHz. The Sanding action reduces the high frequency concent quite a bit, but adds lots of low frequency energy. Sometimes, you can see the frequency going down briefly as I pressed down a bit harder (I know, really should not do that) until the constant rpm feature in the sander revs it up again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, the trim router shows about the same characteristics. Looking at the max hold, this is actually the noisiest of the three tools. And I believe you can see me breathing after the router rev'd down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, the bad news is that all three power tools have energy content over the entire audio spectrum; if you were hoping to get away with some sort of low-bandwidth muffler device, that's not going to work unfortunately. Since there's significant low frequency content, you will need lots of mass if you want to suppress that; curtains will not help you there, but I guess will be somewhat effective in the higher frequency range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8984" LastEditorUserId="8984" LastEditDate="2020-08-02T21:13:27.017" LastActivityDate="2020-08-02T21:13:27.017" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10900" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-02T04:39:26.233" Score="0" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;This No. 5 plane has no identifying marks other than No. 5 on the toe.  It has a corrugated bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qJeZ5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qJeZ5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9001" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-08-02T16:51:57.517" LastActivityDate="2020-08-02T16:51:57.517" Title="Can anyone help me identify this No. 5 corrugated plane" Tags="|plane|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10897" CreationDate="2020-08-03T16:25:25.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to assume that these are 45 degree angles, as that makes the whole thing a lot easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see a few options.  The simplest is to make the angles on a bigger piece first then rip off the edge banding.  Use a board that is the same thickness as your divider material but decently wide (to allow easy handling).  Tilt your table saw blade to 45, then position the fence so that the cut takes more than half of the thickness of the board off.   Make one pass on each side of the board and you'll have a point centered on the thickness.  Then put the blade back to 90 and position the fence so you're just taking off the strip you need on what is normally the &amp;quot;waste&amp;quot; side of the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this isn't actually what I would do here.  Gluing that tiny strip on will be an alignment nightmare, and you'll have to be really careful clamping it on to not damage the relatively fragile point.  I would actually flip your assumption and glue on an oversize square edge banding first and then put the profile on the divider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start with stock thicker than the divider and wider than the point will need to be.  Glue it on with overhang on both sides of the divider (I would recommend &amp;quot;bandy clamps&amp;quot; for this.)  Then flush it up to the sides of the divider with a hand plane angled so the back of the sole is referencing on the divider's surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now do the same as in the first paragraph, but sneak up the saw fence closer and closer until the cut lands as close as you need to the back edge of the banding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, if you don't have a table saw you can do this with a router table and a 45 degree bit.  Use a miter gauge with a stop on it and sneak the stop up to where you need your cut to be the same way as you'd do with the fence above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also think you could do this pretty quickly with a hand plane.  Just mark a line on the end of the banding at 45, extend the ends of the lines around the face and edge of the board, and then plane to the lines.  If you're not comfortable with this at first do a couple trial runs on a piece of scrap.  This also has the advantage that it will come out well even if your divider is a little warped (which will be a problem with the power tool methods.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2020-08-03T16:25:25.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10903" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-04T02:50:37.927" Score="1" ViewCount="120" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cut out a small 4&amp;quot; x 5&amp;quot; piece of oriented-strand board out of a wall.  I saved this cut out piece so I can re-attach it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I put the piece back in the hole I cut, what do I use to re-attach it so it stays stable?  (so it won't fall back or forward out of the hole.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If this can be done, what do I use to fill in the crack of air that will be around this piece that was cut out, after, it is re-attached?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9007" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-08-04T14:03:24.040" LastActivityDate="2021-01-01T15:00:50.087" Title="Replacing cutout in oriented-strand board (OSB)" Tags="|finishing|joinery|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10903" CreationDate="2020-08-04T14:01:53.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I put the piece back in the hole I cut, what do I use to re-attach it so it stays stable? (so it won't fall back or forward out of the hole.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glue tabs on to the back side of the hole, then glue the cutout to them once the glue used has had a chance to cure. You can probably just use superglue/CA to attach these tabs as they don't have to take much strain, but it'll be stronger if you use PVA, polyurethane adhesive or epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; you can use more than one glue, with the main glue spread over most of the surface for strength, with dots of superglue just to provide initial hold. But many times a filler panel like this is just held in place with masking tape until the glue dries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this can be done, what do I use to fill in the crack of air that will be around this piece that was cut out, after, it is re-attached?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any kind of filler might work. It doesn't have to be a wood filler necessarily, depending on where this is, how visible the surface is and if visible how important it is for it to look a certain way — if this is in a utility area you might be fine with white filler material. And obviously if you'll be painting the OSB the filler colour doesn't matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the commercial side any &amp;quot;plastic wood&amp;quot; product, Durham's Water Putty, spackle (UK: Polyfilla or similar) which can either be used plain or tinted, or even silicone or acrylic caulk if you wanted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the home-made front you can make decent filler material, with any consistency from sloppy to quite a stiff paste, from wood dust&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; and glue. Epoxy is a good choice for this because of its strength&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; but it works fine using any standard PVA glue, white or yellow, although this DIY filler shrinks a little upon drying and tends to end up a darker colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Even sawing and router waste with little flakes in it, not just pure dust, would be fine for this fill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Any ol' cheap 5-min epoxy, even stuff from the dollar store/pound shop, is perfectly adequate for this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-08-04T14:01:53.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10905" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-04T15:26:55.733" Score="0" ViewCount="179" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a largish piece of birch ply (120cm by 60cm) that warped -- one corner is 2cm off the flat plane.  I cannot replace this piece, so I'd like to try and bend it back to a flatter condition.  I assume that heat and steam, or both, might be how to do the trick, so I'd like to ask:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if I apply (dry) heat, should I apply to the cupped side or the side that cups out?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;same question for steam: on the side that cups in or the side that cups out?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;what about using dry heat on one side and steam on the other?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can easily live with the piece cupping a it towards the non show side. I know I could just try and see, but since I have a 50% chances of getting it wrong I'd like to improve my odds!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6190" LastActivityDate="2020-08-04T15:26:55.733" Title="Bending birch plywood" Tags="|plywood|twist|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3403" CreationDate="2020-08-05T12:42:04.270" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been using Zinsser Bulls Eye SealCoat for years straight out of the can.  I wipe it on, sand lightly with fine sandpaper and then wipe on multiple coats of Minwax Wipe-on Poly, again straight from the can. Works well on Baltic birch plywood as well as preventing/reducing blotching on cherry and pear.  Since the shellac dries so quickly I often put a couple of coats on, especially with the birch plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9015" LastActivityDate="2020-08-05T12:42:04.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10909" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-06T18:37:22.357" Score="0" ViewCount="282" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I cut a groove between say 1.5mm to 2.5mm wide using the Dremel Cutting guide in the 565 kit? The cutting bit 561 is too wide at 3.2mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9024" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-08-06T19:12:46.043" LastActivityDate="2020-08-07T17:08:37.970" Title="Cutting a 2mm wide / 3mm deep groove" Tags="|wood|cutting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10909" CreationDate="2020-08-06T21:43:03.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is cutting bit 561 the smallest that is made that you can chuck into your Dremel? Find a narrower bit - it might not be made by Dremel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try a hobby store - model railroading/RC aircraft, not woodworking. They'll have absolutely tiny bits, there's bound to be something that will do the trick. It may take multiple passes to get to your desired width/depth. You might have to buy a whole new &lt;s&gt;toy&lt;/s&gt; er, tool to do it, but if you really need a groove that small, that may well be what it takes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also probably do it with a hand saw. I believe some of the Japanese saws are pretty thin, with some searching you could probably find one that fits the bill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're absolutely sold on using the Dremel and can't find a cutter small enough, you may just be out of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2020-08-06T21:43:03.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10909" CreationDate="2020-08-07T17:08:37.970" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a whole world of CNC bits with 1/8&amp;quot; shanks that will work for this. Here's just one link:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebay.com/str/CARBIDE-PLUS/DIAMETER-070-0799/_i.html?_storecat=50046017013&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.ebay.com/str/CARBIDE-PLUS/DIAMETER-070-0799/_i.html?_storecat=50046017013&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;You can probably find individual bits on Amazon or visit Kyocera online. As mentioned you should specify what material you're working with for more relevant replies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2762" LastActivityDate="2020-08-07T17:08:37.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10915" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-09T18:38:46.797" Score="1" ViewCount="1181" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was gifted a small barrel, maybe a half gallon (guessing) in volume, pictured below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qLUdX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qLUdX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I let it sit for too long, I guess, and now there are gaps between all the staves. I read somewhere that you just have to soak it to get the slats to swell, so I tried that -- but the hole didn't seal up, and it still leaks. I've since let it dry out again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do to restore it and get it to seal again? I'm not that concerned with aesthetics, so I've considered trying to squeeze epoxy or wood glue into the gaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failing that, I guess I could take all the hoops off, plane or sand the edges of each stave so they fit snugly, and put it back together. I have no idea how or where to find or make replacement hoops, though, as I assume the existing ones would be too small once I remove material from the staves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can it be repaired or restored without disassembling in a way where it'll still be suitable for aging some whiskey in it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I need to disassemble it to restore it, what materials or tools will I need, and what's a good place to get them?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8718" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2020-08-09T20:05:02.157" LastActivityDate="2020-08-13T19:38:34.090" Title="How to restore small whiskey barrel?" Tags="|wood|wood-repair|restoration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4367" CreationDate="2020-08-11T20:15:42.880" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over the years, my family has used a lot of oils on butcher blocks on bbq trailers and prep tables. We only use &amp;quot;food grade&amp;quot; mineral oil. There are no additives whatsoever, as with regular mineral oil and baby oil. It's clean, filtered, scent-free and resists bacteria. We use it on wood and metal surfaces, including knives and cleavers. Plus, it's only about $17/gallon on Amazon. That works out much cheaper than small bottles of &amp;quot;cutting board oil&amp;quot;, which is the same oil. Just don't use cooking oils or olive oil. They turn bad in the wood, smell bad and start bacteria growth. Wipe the board with plenty of oil and let sit overnight to soak in and always do BOTH sides of the board (very important). Oiling top only can cause warping. Many wipe the oil on boards with their clean bare hand. No waste and it's great for the skin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9045" LastActivityDate="2020-08-11T20:15:42.880" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10920" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-12T13:43:03.073" Score="1" ViewCount="188" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this topic has been discussed a lot but I couldn’t find a clear answer to my question. Or I am lost in too much content without clarity on my particular question. I am building kitchen drawers from 1/2’’ white oak (flat sawn) with 1/4’’ plywood/MDF bottom (MDF would be surfaced with linoleum). The largest drawer is 30 5/8’’ wide, 18’’ deep and 4 1/2’’ high with Blum undermount drawer slides. Construction uses dominos for joinery and 1/4’’ deep groove for the bottom offset by 1/2'' (1/2 is required by Blum).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should I account for wood movement in this construction with hardwood sides and plywood/MDF bottoms? I am in New England, hot and humid summer. That means the drawer sides should shrink in the winter. Does that mean I should use a 1/4’’ deep groove and undersize the plywood/MDF bottom by 1/8 so that there is space for the sides to shrink? Do I glue the bottom or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8741" LastActivityDate="2020-08-12T13:43:03.073" Title="Wood movement on solid wood drawer with plywood/MDF bottom" Tags="|wood-movement|hardwood|drawer-construction|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7928" CreationDate="2020-08-12T17:06:09.470" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UQ00S.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UQ00S.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;90 degree frame saw blade, courtesy of sawmillcreek forums&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;He uses a special blade that has a 90˚ fold and a progressive teeth line. This blade is not well known outside Europe and then it's mostly known in Germany and Hungary. The name for the blade varies, try googling for &amp;quot;zinkensäge&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;zinkensägeblatt&amp;quot;, there are close up images of this particular blade. Attached image is courtesy of a sawmillcreek.com's user Cliff Rohrabacher&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9049" LastActivityDate="2020-08-12T17:06:09.470" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10923" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-13T09:36:17.840" Score="1" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;any idea how this color can be achieved?&#xA;Both the body and top, which seems to be different&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On top I believe is some sort of black wenge diluted, but the other one im not sure if it is grey and wiped with a cloth or something,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TxdQr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TxdQr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gKf6U.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gKf6U.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TSkEN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TSkEN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Im thinking on using water based varnish btw&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5947" LastActivityDate="2020-08-17T19:05:04.000" Title="How to get this colour in pine?" Tags="|wood|paint|varnish|pine|painting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10676" CreationDate="2020-08-13T18:22:09.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If an arris cuts your skin, then calluses won't form, it's just too sharp. A few swipes on a fine stone remedies a problem and doesn't affect overall function of a chisel. I did it on all my chisels except mortising, I feel that a sharp arris helps removing loose fibers from mortise walls better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9049" LastActivityDate="2020-08-13T18:22:09.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10343" CreationDate="2020-08-13T18:33:18.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There were curved molding planes of various designs. A scratch stock would work for simple situations, but the quality of a scratched profile would be nowhere near a cut one&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/85JJ9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/85JJ9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Curved plane 1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K7spf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K7spf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Curved molding plane 2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9049" LastActivityDate="2020-08-13T18:33:18.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10127" CreationDate="2020-08-13T18:50:33.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you are on the right track, however please note that a saw, -- and hence a miter box - is considered a mostly a rough cutting tool, so a deviation of up to a few degrees out of the box is acceptable. The angle is then refined with a sharp plane on a shooting board or clamped in a vise with or without a guide. This is totally possible in apartment settings with just a block plane, any block plane that is sharp. For the project you are working on the exact angle doesn't really matter, but clean and fine cuts are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9049" LastActivityDate="2020-08-13T18:50:33.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10790" CreationDate="2020-08-13T19:13:33.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that shallow depth is a lesser problem and personally would just ignore it. A narrow tenon is a bigger problem because the tenoned piece can cast (it probably won't or it would already). My solution would be to insert two dowels of an appropriate diameter (so they're snug in the mortise) inline with the tenon so that dowels touch the flanks of the mortise. It might be a tricky operation even with a drill press, so I would also consider padding the mortise from the flanks, which would allow positioning dowels away from the piece edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mortised piece looks like a clamp, if that's the case then its only responsibility to keep tenoned piece flat. Dowels should fulfill the purpose, also a single screw in end grain is totally adequate (however still a questionable choice)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9049" LastActivityDate="2020-08-13T19:13:33.147" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10915" CreationDate="2020-08-13T19:31:12.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take it outside and fill with water. It will leak, so you will have to fill it up a few times. It would take a few days, just sprinkling some water will not work. If it still leaks after a 4-3 days a stave has to be replaced (could be rotten or a deep splinter). There's a way to fix a some leaks with a dry typha leave, but it's very improbable that you will find it and all the tools needed for this operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If soaking works, please be reminded that once it's completely dry it will leak again and that a few dry-soak cycles may damage the barrel up to the point of replacing many (or all) staves. In other words keep it full with water, whiskey or wine, make sure it's clean, almost sterile inside before putting anything or it will get spoiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you will disassemble it - 99.9% you won't put it back. It requires a considerable skill (e.g. staves have a compound angle along a curved profile and it has to match perfectly with the adjacent one, repeat x number of staves), a lot of experience and physical strength and a set of tools you probably won't find around. Epoxy and glue works only if you want it as a decoration. But I think a good soak would fix your problem, because it doesn't look damaged from the photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9049" LastEditorDisplayName="user9049" LastEditDate="2020-08-13T19:38:34.090" LastActivityDate="2020-08-13T19:38:34.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10727" CreationDate="2020-08-13T19:55:35.410" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are thinners for latex paints, you could totally do it with the latex paint, but there also white tint dye base, for ex. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/p/Varathane-1-qt-Classic-White-Tint-Base-Water-Based-Interior-Wood-Stain-339584/305626822&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.homedepot.com/p/Varathane-1-qt-Classic-White-Tint-Base-Water-Based-Interior-Wood-Stain-339584/305626822&lt;/a&gt; - one coat will let the grain show through&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's really bout what exactly a client wants. Historically whitewash was limestone based, the simplest recipe I've seen was ~5:1 mason limestone to table salt dilited to an appropriate thickness, does the customer want this or just whitish finish with grain showing through?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9049" LastActivityDate="2020-08-13T19:55:35.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8186" CreationDate="2020-08-13T20:31:13.907" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Workbench isn't a problem, planing could be done on sawing horses, maybe even made for this particular occasion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exactness of the angle is a secondary concern, with this wood you'll be sharpening A LOT, so I'd be figuring a way to sharpen quickly rather than at an exact angle. Also it seems that your cap iron is not bedded to the blade, this should be corrected too. Looking at the factory grinding marks on the sole I would suspect the sole isn't flat either, so when you adjust a blade –– it catches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real issue here is the amount of material you're trying to remove, doing it with a short soled plane will re-shape your character for real. It would be really nice to remove the bulk of material with something else: a jack plane or a hand held electric plane, and then just do the smoothing with #4, but since you aren't buying a new tool it's not an option. Orbital sander can't be used together with a plane, because grits gets embedded in lumber and it dulls a blade in a matter of seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9049" LastActivityDate="2020-08-13T20:31:13.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8186" CreationDate="2020-08-14T04:03:23.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got through a very similar situation using a toothing plane. They are good for weird grain and for very tough wood. In particular, they're good at not getting clogged in the way that's happening in your pictures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like &lt;a href=&quot;https://ecemmerich.de/gesamtkatalog/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ECE's&lt;/a&gt; toothing plane but you can just buy a toothed blade to put in your metal planes. Some people really like using them with low-angle jack planes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's still probably going to take a pretty long time, depending on how much material you need to take off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3562" LastActivityDate="2020-08-14T04:03:23.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10856" CreationDate="2020-08-14T17:01:31.163" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: yes, you should do breaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Longer answer: it depends on how how does a motor and a bit gets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a nominal temperature for a motor depending in its class - the highest temperature a motor can be indefinitely at without any degradation in its primary functions. You could look it up for a specific motor, I picked mine to be ambient temperature +60˚C, so if my workshop is at 25˚C, I would let a motor warm up to 85˚C. Every 10˚C over this value will reduce motor lifetime 2x. Some machines (e.g. planers) have overheating protection, my router doesn't, so I cap the highest temp at 95˚C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When your router idles (that is rotating without load) it takes very little current and pretty much is not heating, so I would switch it off only if preparing next pass takes more than a couple of minutes or makes me turn away from a router. Switching a router on and off repeatedly will heat it more than idling, also it's not good for bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This being said, a bit would get way hotter in a way shorter time, it fact it's totally possible to burn a bit in just a few moments after a cold start. So if you are doing raised panel for a whole kitchen in one run - I would do breaks after 4-5 passes - swipe shavings and dust, move ready pieces away, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9049" LastActivityDate="2020-08-14T17:01:31.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10934" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-15T16:04:02.823" Score="1" ViewCount="456" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/De00i.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/De00i.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;I have an old Sears tablesaw.  It was my Grandfather's and it is well over 40 years old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please excuse me for not being the sharpest tool in the shed, but about a year ago I accidently started the blade with a piece of wood already inserted into the teeth.  The saw has never run right since.  It keeps slowing down the deeper I get into the cut.  I keep having to retract and let the blade regain its speed.  Well, today I was trying to cut a 4 food section of plywood and the saw just can't handle it.  I dug into the problem some more and here's what I came up with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The motor turns a wheel with a belt on it.  The belt turns another wheel with a lug on it.  The blade mounts onto this lug.  Well, I noticed that the lug is turning freely of the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that I can't find how to stop the lug from turning.  I found where I believe it mounts in the back, and found a pin of some sot neat it, but am unsure if that's relevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9061" LastActivityDate="2020-08-17T04:50:36.933" Title="Table saw blade keeps jamming and slowing down" Tags="|table-saw|cutting|tool-maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10934" CreationDate="2020-08-17T04:50:36.933" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To me it looks like you've got a stripped belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a bit hard to tell for sure from your photos but it looks very much to me like the spindle and wheel which are connected by the belt are gear-like, to accept a toothed belt, and it looks like the belt was originally toothed, but that the teeth have worn away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your belt should look something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZXrHp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZXrHp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... but it looks like the teeth are gone. I'd take a closer look and see if you can make out if the belt should be toothed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The belts do wear down and will particularly wear down or even just strip straight off if you overload the blade. Also the rubber they're made of will just degrade over time which will contribute to the wear. I have worked with saws which used toothed belts before so they definitely are a thing, even if not all saw drivebelts are toothed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you take the belt off you may be able to see some writing on the belt which will tell you what the specs of the belt are. If not, you can work out the specification with a few measurements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gates are a company who make the &amp;quot;Powergrip GT&amp;quot; line of belts which are a high quality belt I have used in the past. If you look on their website you can find a guide on how to specify the belts - I believe you'll need a pitch (distance between each tooth), the number of teeth on the belt (which will give you the overall length), and a width. The belts can be metric or imperial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The guide on specification can be found within this PDF (around page 8 or 9 I think):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gates.com/content/dam/gates/home/resources/resource-library/catalogs/powergripdrivedesignmanual_17195_2014.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.gates.com/content/dam/gates/home/resources/resource-library/catalogs/powergripdrivedesignmanual_17195_2014.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2020-08-17T04:50:36.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10936" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10937" CreationDate="2020-08-17T05:18:39.350" Score="-2" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three 1cm x 2cm metal sheets in my DeWalt DW745 table saw packaging; Does anyone know what is that for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0uye5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0uye5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Three 1cm x 2cm metal sheets in my table saw packaging&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9068" LastActivityDate="2020-08-17T08:55:40.313" Title="Three 1cm x 2cm metal sheets in my table saw packaging" Tags="|table-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2020-08-18T18:41:35.570" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10936" CreationDate="2020-08-17T08:55:40.313" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the manual, they are number 6 items, extra guard shims. This implies that one can adjust the spacing of the blade guard when attaching the guard to the table. Did you get a manual with the saw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2020-08-17T08:55:40.313" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10938" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10947" CreationDate="2020-08-17T18:43:19.303" Score="1" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built a wooden cupboard with drawers. When the woodworking was finished, the drawers could be pulled out smoothly but I then applied stain onto the drawers and the cupboard, which now makes the drawers block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When pulling, the drawer sticks on the same spot until it gets loose and suddenly moves fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This happened even though I specifically paid attention to using only block-resistant stain. Which apparently wasn’t block-resistant after all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would you guys think I best make the drawers move smoothly again? Other than taking everything apart and sanding the stain off...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5492" LastEditorUserId="2917" LastEditDate="2020-08-17T19:07:10.350" LastActivityDate="2020-08-19T16:02:01.853" Title="Stop my drawers from blocking caused by a layer of paint" Tags="|finishing|furniture|staining|paint|drawer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10923" CreationDate="2020-08-17T19:05:04.000" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To me it looks like it is “grey washed”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instructions can be found here for example: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wikihow.com/Grey-Wash-Wood&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.wikihow.com/Grey-Wash-Wood&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And maybe I’m stating the obvious, but remember to first experiment on a few scrap pieces of wood before applying it to your furniture&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5492" LastActivityDate="2020-08-17T19:05:04.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10940" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-18T09:29:23.877" Score="1" ViewCount="2140" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use Danish oil on some of my small projects. This is supplied in a small metal can with a screw-cap beneath which is a metal seal you pry out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that if I store the unused Danish oil in the same can upright, a skin of cured oil forms on top and makes it hard to use the remainder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have taken to screwing the lid on tightly and inverting the can so that the skin forms near the base of the can and doesn't obstruct the flow. However the screw-cap tends to glue-up solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having destructively removed the stuck cap I tried storing the remainder in a glass jar with a tight fitting lid (old coffee jar). This doesn't solve the problem but the wider neck makes it easier to pierce the thick skin that forms. Before I have used half the remaining oil is slowly gelling (though still just about usable). This is far from satisfactory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I quite like the finish produced by Danish oil but these problems are making it seem wasteful and troublesome. I believe it is a curing oil rather than a drying oil so adding solvents might not help. Is there a better way to store the Danish oil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively should I switch to shellac flakes and just make up the amount of finish I need for a single project?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="158" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-08-18T18:19:25.987" LastActivityDate="2020-08-18T18:19:25.987" Title="Storing Danish oil" Tags="|finishing|finish-selection|storage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10940" CreationDate="2020-08-18T16:03:47.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is because when you close the can there is still sufficient oxygen left inside to start the finish curing.  Removing the skin will allow you to continue using the finish, but only to a limited extent.  Eventually the remaining finish will thicken, as you've seen, and be unusable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several ways to get around this, including spraying a non-oxygen gas into the container before sealing it, or filling the empty space with something non-reactive like ping-pong balls, but the best way is to keep your finish in bags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They make HDPE plastic bags with small screw-top caps.  The main use for these that I know of (i.e. search for this on Amazon) is for smuggling liquor onto cruise ships that charge you to drink on board.  When you put the finish in the bag simply squeeze out all of the air that you can before putting on the cap.  Since there is no oxygen in the container the finish will not start curing (except for possibly right by the mouth, but this is such a small surface it can be ignored.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using this method I have been able to successfully use the very last drops of oil-based finishes, and the bags can be reused (for the same finish, obviously) more or less indefinitely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2020-08-18T17:56:25.807" LastActivityDate="2020-08-18T17:56:25.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10940" CreationDate="2020-08-18T18:18:22.923" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that if I store the unused Danish oil in the same can upright, a skin of cured oil forms on top and makes it hard to use the remainder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is due to the air trapped in the container after opening. Even if the product doesn't initially it's nearly inevitable that skinning over will happen — unless you're very productive and use up the contents swiftly — as each time the can is opened more air gets inside (and a slightly larger volume each time too) which provides fresh oxygen for the curing to proceed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have taken to screwing the lid on tightly and inverting the can so that the skin forms near the base of the can and doesn't obstruct the flow. However the screw-cap tends to glue-up solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bravo if you came up with this on your own. Upending the can like this is an old-timers' trick for storing opened paints and varnishes&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; so that the skin form where it isn't so much of a problem, underneath the liquid component rather than on top once the can is right side up again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the cap sticking, heating the lid carefully with a heat gun, or sitting it into a shallow container of boiling water, could be enough to unstick the lid. But even with this you may find you need something like a plumber's wrench to twist the cap off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never been entirely happy with this trick for a couple of reasons. One being the tendency for the cap/lid to stick badly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it also makes it hard or impossible to stir the remaining product. &lt;em&gt;Thorough&lt;/em&gt; stirring is vital to consistent results with paints and any reduced-sheen varnishes (i.e. anything other than full gloss) which have some a matting agent added. Matting agents are like pigments, they start life as a dry powder which sinks to the bottom of a liquid during storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last but not least I've had an upended can leak on me, and the results were not pretty!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe it is a curing oil rather than a drying oil&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather confusingly those two things mean the same thing. So-called drying oils are actually oils that cure. Obviously a better name for them would be curing oils, which you will sometimes see, but the term 'drying oil' comes down to us from an earlier time and it's firmly embedded in the jargon at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively should I switch to shellac flakes and just make up the amount of finish I need for a single project?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I would highly recommend use of shellac to just about any woodworker (great traditional finish, still relevant in the right context today) &amp;quot;Danish oil&amp;quot; and shellac are by no means equivalent finishes, so neither one can be considered a replacement for the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there is much to be said for your idea of making up finish as you go and that is one of the things I was going to lead on to....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Make your own as needed&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;As I've mentioned in numerous previous Answers, finishes similar to &amp;quot;Danish oil&amp;quot; are merely a blend of some kind of varnish with more oil, usually with some additional driers to speed the drying of the slower-curing oil component. These blends are then, usually, heavily thinned with more spirits.&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you know the above you might begin to have the inkling that you can make something very similar yourself. And you can. I've never bought &amp;quot;Danish oil&amp;quot; but I have used an oil/varnish blend to finish things many, many times in the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My usual formula is a 1:1 mix of boiled linseed oil and oil-based polyurethane, &lt;em&gt;which I then thin as much or as little as I like&lt;/em&gt; — this is another of the chief advantages of making up blended finishes at home, you can tailor the end result. You might make different versions of the product to suit your individual preferences, the type of wood, the weather conditions&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;, or the tightness of your time window.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Make your life simpler, use wiping varnish instead&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;On some woods there is literally no difference in the look you achieve, in terms of enhancing the figure, AKA 'grain pop', while being simpler to produce and, most importantly IMO, &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;far&lt;/strong&gt; more protective&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a test reveals the higher oil content pops the grain more then I use BLO first, switching to wiping varnish to complete the finishing&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And obviously I'm going to recommend you make up the wiping varnish yourself as needed, seeing as it's just standard oil-based poly thinned with more solvent... why pay over the odds for the finish manufacturers to dilute the finish for you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And again, making it up yourself in small batches you can tailor the final product to suit your needs/preferences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Note this is for oil-based paints and varnishes, it has zero benefit with other finish types which don't cure via oxidation. And with waterbased finishes doing this can have disastrous consequences if rust begins to form on the lip of the can or the lid itself from even the most minor scratches incurred when prying the lid off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Other finishes in this class are what are commonly sold as &amp;quot;Scandinavian oil&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;Teak oil&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Tung Oil Finish&amp;quot; (which usually contains no tung oil at all!) and there are others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; For example during cooler weather or when it's more humid you might make it thinner specifically to help ensure each coat dries more quickly, rather than achieving the same end by adding additional driers (which you may not have, or may not want to use as they're often heavy-metal compounds).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt; Again to emphasise, only oil first if testing reveals that straight oil enhances the figure to a noticeably greater extent (you'll discover that in many cases it does not) and if the project requires this grain enhancement.... there are times when you don't want the wood to shout &amp;quot;Look at me, I'm &lt;em&gt;gorgeous&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;, but instead whisper &amp;quot;I'm very pretty&amp;quot; :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-08-18T18:18:22.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10943" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-18T20:59:07.660" Score="-1" ViewCount="1805" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I cut high precision inside corners? By high precision I mean +/- 1/64&amp;quot; or better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some rare cases I need to cut L-shaped pieces of wood. This has the tricky problem of cutting the inside corner. Jigsaws and band saws do not make a clean cut to the precision required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with American miter saws is that often they have that fold of metal over the top edge and that prevents them from make a clean cut or lying flat against the reference surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I have not tried is a Japanese saw. That might be the way to do it. Set up a slotted rail jig of some type and use a Japanese saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another idea is to use a scroll saw, but the problem there is that scroll saws are not really intended to make long, straight cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2021-05-20T22:05:59.263" Title="How to cut high precision inside corners?" Tags="|cutting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10944" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10949" CreationDate="2020-08-18T22:54:36.063" Score="8" ViewCount="938" Body="&lt;p&gt;I turned on my compact router with a tongue cutting bit installed. Immediately after I hit the on switch I heard grinding noises and felt the router try to wobble out of my grip. I turned off the router as fast as I could and to my shock and horror saw the bit was making contact with the side of the base. I was holding the router in the air when I turned it on, and I feel extremely lucky I didn't end up in the hospital.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to have a better understanding of how this happened and what I did wrong before I will be comfortable using a router again. My googling hasn't yielded any results and I was hoping somebody here might have an idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As far as I can tell, nothing was touching the router bit when I turned it on. For better or for worse I was holding it in the air. Part of a clamp holding the work-piece in place was sticking up into the air near the router, but I did not see any damage to the clamp that might indicate it had been struck by the router.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00HAQMHEO&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;I'm using a makita compact router with plunge base&lt;/a&gt; (the plunge base doesn't fit on the router anymore, but the router itself seems OK)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07CBX5ZJZ&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's a link to the router bit I was using&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R3RWMEABLY7HFL/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;ASIN=B07CBX5ZJZ&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's a two star review for the bit that sounds really familiar&lt;/a&gt; (found after I started drafting this post)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's possible I did not tighten the bit enough, but prior to this incident I had successfully cut a tongue on a different work-piece without issue. I did not adjust the collet tightness in between.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I typically try to position router bits so they are about 1/4&amp;quot; away from resting against the bottom of the collet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I had my speed setting at 3/6 when I turned on the router. The manual says this is about 17,000 rpm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I haven't been able to find any max RPM ratings for this bit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Obligatory: I am new to wood working. Thanks in advance for your wisdom, patience, and mercy. I was really enjoying this hobby up until this scare.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pflRo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pflRo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture of bent router bit and gouged router base&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: After reading @blacksmith37 's comment. I put the offending bit in a vice and used a socket wrench to try and bend it. It bent easily and eventually snapped.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://photos.app.goo.gl/qtzPAJjgmt9xEX5j7&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6yNpV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6yNpV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image taken after video linked above&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K0AbV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K0AbV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image taken after shank snapped&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9076" LastEditorUserId="9076" LastEditDate="2020-08-19T00:53:27.197" LastActivityDate="2021-04-23T14:04:31.563" Title="How did I bend this router bit? What safety or operating step did I miss?" Tags="|safety|router|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10944" CreationDate="2020-08-19T14:40:50.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The low strength of the shaft as shown by the original failure and subsequent bend test, shows that the shaft was never hardened . So do not use this brand either because of poor quality control or poor planning. A shaft like this should be &amp;quot;hardened&amp;quot; , roughly to Rockwell C 35. This is about the hardness of socket or end wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3966" LastActivityDate="2020-08-19T14:40:50.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10938" CreationDate="2020-08-19T16:02:01.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's just capture the comments as an Answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pull the drawers out and scrape or sand the surfaces (often referred to as &amp;quot;slides&amp;quot;) that bear on the carcase (sometimes called &amp;quot;rails&amp;quot;) down to bare wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do the same for rails, as well. Both of these bearing surfaces should generally be free of any finish. There may be very hard and fast-drying finishes that wouldn't wear down and get sticky, but I suspect that would only be for special applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea here is to remove the finish on the bearing surfaces, or those surfaces that are intended to ride on each other in a relatively low-friction manner. You don't have to remove the finish on surfaces that do not touch each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just rub a fine coating of wax on the fresh wooden bearing surfaces, reapply when you remember (like, every couple of &lt;em&gt;years&lt;/em&gt;) and that's it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, wax, especially beeswax, may &lt;em&gt;seem&lt;/em&gt; sticky, but that is just a little static friction that is easily overcome. Then the wax conforms to the force and softens almost immediately so the slides and rails ride over a very low-friction surface. More to the point, it continues to do this over the lifetime of the furniture, unlike some finishes that may even cement together over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, another option is to retrofit your design so the drawers take mechanical slides and rails (often in single installable packages) but that is beyond the scope of this answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2020-08-19T16:02:01.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10948" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-20T01:51:01.607" Score="1" ViewCount="67" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously (?) its used for boring three holes at a time, or maybe slots if the drill mounting block is designed for sideways forces (i.e., not a tapered fitting without a drawbar). But why is this particular configuration so useful as to have a large stationary machine dedicated to it? What type of joinery or other fabrication makes use of this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the example photos below, you can see the 3 boring spindles are relatively close together and possibly all at the same height. Although it looks like the outer two may have adjustable positions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I think the triple-spindle portion may be a removable head, in which case this machine might serve other operations as well. I can more easily imagine what a single-spindle boring machine would be used for. But &amp;gt; 1 not as much.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fI6uy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fI6uy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X3wC3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X3wC3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="763" LastActivityDate="2020-08-20T01:51:01.607" Title="What is a Triple Spindle Boring machine used for?" Tags="|tools|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10944" CreationDate="2020-08-20T13:00:14.550" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodcraft.com/media/W1siZiIsIjIwMTgvMTEvMjYvMTYvNTUvNTcvODkvODZfUm91dGVyX1RhYmxlX0Jhc2ljc19CaXRfU3BlZWRfQ2hhcnQucGRmIl1d/86_Router-Table-Basics_Bit-Speed-Chart.pdf?sha=373dbe8c76c590e9&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this chart&lt;/a&gt; from Woodcraft, you were probably in the correct speed range for that bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real issue is that you are asking too much from a 1/4&amp;quot; shank router bit of this type.  You'll notice that all of the reputable vendors (CMT, Whiteside, Freud) all use 1/2&amp;quot; shank for this type of bit.  Small routers have their place, but this type of work isn't it.  Look for a bigger router that takes both 1/4&amp;quot; and 1/2&amp;quot; bits.  A fixed base router such as the Dewalt 616 of 618 would be a step in the right direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2020-08-20T13:00:14.550" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10950" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10951" CreationDate="2020-08-21T13:11:21.670" Score="0" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 40Kg TV, which I want to rest on a table.&#xA;The table is sturdy and can support the weight of the TV. However the length of the table is too short, so I want to elongate it by putting on top of it a simple wood slab (orange in the image).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is a glued wood panel (width of 2.7cm) strong enough to support safely the TV?&#xA;Please notice the size of each object shown in the image.&#xA;The legs of the TV exceed the table of around 12.5cm (5&amp;quot;) on each side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m4YFM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m4YFM.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9086" LastActivityDate="2020-08-21T15:26:13.243" Title="What kind of wood for supporting a heavy TV?" Tags="|wood|furniture|tabletop|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10950" CreationDate="2020-08-21T15:19:22.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any real wood (or plywood) top of 1 inch nominal will be more than enough to support the small amount of cantilevered mass you have here. This is true even if it was not attached to the underlying table. Heck, even some of that Ikea foam-core stuff would probably be ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your only concern at these dimensions is if the cantilevered mass will want to deform the material in the middle, causing it to warp. Maybe some poorer quality aggregates would do this, especially as they age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do fasten it to the table with glue and metal fasteners, it isn't going anywhere. You could even use 1/2 or 3/4 inch plywood in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Search the previous Q&amp;amp;A for references to the &amp;quot;sagulator&amp;quot; which can give you &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; idea of how wood deflects. But you can get a good feel for this simply by taking your material, overhanging 12cm over the edge of your workbeanch, and pressing on it with your hand. The amount of deflection you get, and how it bounces back gives you all the information you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-08-21T15:26:13.243" LastActivityDate="2020-08-21T15:26:13.243" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10952" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-22T03:17:59.133" Score="1" ViewCount="253" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a dodecahedron and an icosahedron from struts of wood with compound mitre cuts. I have a compound mitre saw. I've made some test joints and the dodecahedron joints seem fine:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KoUax.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KoUax.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;re&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; while the icosahedron ones are pretty awful:&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BbMJe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BbMJe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;icosa&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used a stop and 90 degree offset and changed sides to do each side of the cut:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FtMF5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FtMF5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How can I make this more fast, safe and accurate?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1125" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2020-08-24T23:37:36.060" LastActivityDate="2020-08-25T21:58:24.573" Title="How to make compound cuts for struts in a icosahedron?" Tags="|safety|miter-saw|miter-joint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10954" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-22T14:03:58.593" Score="0" ViewCount="298" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a workbench with a leg vise using a traditional parallel guide/pin board. The vise screw is an &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B01M2109GD&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;off-the-shelf 18&amp;quot; metal vise screw&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cSAeh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cSAeh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;vise screw&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;the legs are southern yellow pine and the vise chop is also southern yellow pine, 2&amp;quot; thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one thing I am not 100% clear on. I know that a leg vise chop doesn't remain parallel to the leg in use, to ensure the top contacts first and also because the pin board can only support so many discrete pin positions. But I have not seen many descriptions about where in the system the pivot occurs and planning for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the screw and the nut have some play, about 1-1.5°, and the handle/garter end of the screw does not, I am assuming that all that pivoting comes from the angle of the vise screw inside the nut. The nut is in theory rigid to the leg,  and the screw is in theory rigid with respect to the vise chop. To that end I am planning on drilling a tight hole for the vise screw on the chop side, and a slightly larger hole in the leg. The amount to over-size the leg hole I can calculate using trigonometry given the leg thickness and the expected pivot angle. (I suppose ideally it would be a tapered/conical hole but I'm not sure if I will go that far.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I have never really seen anyone describe using a larger hole in the leg than the chop,  and I have also heard people say a leg vise chop bends in use, or that they install bushings somewhere in the system. Or, maybe people just let the screw chew out the space it needs in the leg hole in use. Anyway, I'm worried I'm missing something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my plan to drill a larger hole in the leg to allow for the screw to pivot reasonable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3824" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2020-08-24T00:40:26.493" LastActivityDate="2020-08-24T00:40:26.493" Title="Leg vise - Planning for toe-in clearance on leg/chop vise screw holes" Tags="|workbench|vises|leg-vise|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10952" CreationDate="2020-08-22T16:26:01.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While you're probably breaking every manufacturer safety recommendation in the book, there are a couple of improvements you can make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like a rectangular chunk of ply (should be 3/4&amp;quot; or so thick) can be clamped on the saw table to help you hold the piece being cut at 90 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A small (sacrificial) stick parallel to the fence can keep the workpiece from being dragged through the fence. If it's something like 3 or 4 inches wide, you can put it flat on the saw table and (since it looks like you have a slider) you won't have to cut through it every time. Plus, if you clamp it in place, the kerf will indicate the cut line and you'll be able to set up faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2020-08-22T16:26:01.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10956" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10960" CreationDate="2020-08-23T01:01:51.477" Score="4" ViewCount="901" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought my first plane, an inexpensive Stanley &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.stanleytools.com/products/hand-tools/cutting-tools/planes/no-4-adjustable-bench-plane/12-404&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;12-404&lt;/a&gt; clone by &lt;a href=&quot;https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V3QLZ5Y&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon Basics&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was dialing everything in and planing the edge of a board, eventually getting nice, thin, even shavings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After I unclamped the board I noticed I had inadvertently planed it into a parallelogram (I had been flipping the board over and planing both side-edges about the same amount).&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OGRRZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OGRRZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;profile view of board with very skew faces&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had just watched an instructional video that told me to ensure I was planing the whole length of the board, so I know I was starting each cut by resting the toe right on the edge of the board. The shavings were coming out fine, so somehow I was holding the sole in such a way that it wasn't flush with the edge I was planing - but I thought that's what I was mitigating when I lined up the toe with the piece before each stroke?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What did I do wrong, and what can I do in the future to ensure that when I plane the narrow edge of a board, the edge is square to the face?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the workholding setup (and the piece, before I made it quite so skew)&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IXob6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IXob6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;workholding setup&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="292" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-08-31T14:51:41.317" LastActivityDate="2020-08-31T14:51:41.317" Title="How do I plane the edge of a board such that it stays square to the face?" Tags="|hand-tools|hand-planing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10957" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-23T23:42:17.850" Score="1" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;A branch fell off a walnut tree and I cut a section to turn into a bowl or something, because the grain is beautiful. I thought it might age better if I removed the bark, so I did that, but other than that, I just left it alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Within a week of doing this, some pretty serious checking happened:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LwHV0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LwHV0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see the nice grain and spalting, but the cracks are certainly a problem for bowl making.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So two questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can anything be done to reduce or fill these cracks, so that the piece could still be turned? (I'm aware of epoxy pressure chambers, but that's a pretty big investment for someone who only wants to make a few bowls in my life.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How should I handle logs like this in the future to prevent or minimize the checking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4640" LastEditorUserId="4640" LastEditDate="2020-08-26T13:36:44.937" LastActivityDate="2020-08-26T13:36:44.937" Title="How to prevent wood checking and how to save already checked piece?" Tags="|wood-repair|turning|woodturning|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2020-09-10T06:17:36.103" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10958" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-24T14:37:29.477" Score="1" ViewCount="4751" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is no issue, what is the proper way to perform this? How long after staining should I wait?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve only found answers to the reverse problem. And not sure if it would be the same answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9095" LastActivityDate="2021-09-20T13:01:50.190" Title="Is there any issue using a water based stain then oil based finish?" Tags="|wood|staining|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10958" CreationDate="2020-08-24T15:18:59.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm surprised there isn't already Q&amp;amp;A for this, but I could not find it. (It also occurs to me that I may be assuming you are talking about a final &amp;quot;top-coat&amp;quot; finish on top of a water-based polyurethane style finish. You might be talking about a water-based penetrating stain that you want to top-coat with an oil-based product. Please clarify in the question which one of these you are actually doing.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most cases, when re-coating existing finishes you have to scuff up the previous finish. It is no different in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The water-based finish &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; be fully cured. Wait the entire time for a full cure it says in the instructions, adjusting for temperature and humidity in your area. Maybe wait double the recommendations if you are not sure. Some glossy finishes can remain sticky for a long time with the right humidity.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buff the cured finish to full scuff the top layer, but don't remove the finish. A light touch with any sort of sanding tool with 150-grit to get an even scuff pattern is all you need.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean the surface as you would after any sanding: remove all the dust, and apply a damp line-free cloth to pick up the rest. The more time you spend on this part, the better your results. Clean the surface again, while you are at it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apple the oil-based finish as directed, scuffing lightly between coats as directed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The take-away here is that, in most regards, once fully cured any &amp;quot;coating&amp;quot; finish (i.e., not a penetrating finish) is pretty much the same. That is, the oil vs. water is more about the &lt;em&gt;application&lt;/em&gt; of the product and the &lt;em&gt;clean-up&lt;/em&gt;, along with considerations for environmentals like VOCs, protective equipment, etc. While there are differences in the final product between these broad categories of finishes, for most of us those chemical and physical differences aren't as important as the wet application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-08-25T15:31:16.500" LastActivityDate="2020-08-25T15:31:16.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10956" CreationDate="2020-08-24T15:48:17.243" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like jdv's comment, the easiest way to ensure that the edge you're planing is square is to use a shooting board.  (Note there are two styles of shooting board, one for endgrain where you plane towards the back of your bench and one for edge jointing where you plane across the bench.)  I won't get into details since this is a much bigger topic that has been covered in other questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, some boards are too large to easily shoot on a board.  For those there are a few factors that play into keeping your edge square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first, and probably most significant, is your plane's lateral adjuster.  This is the lever between the top of the tote (handle) and the blade.  This lets you balance the cutting depth between the two sides of the plane.  Sight down the sole of the plane to see the blade projection or take a test cut and then move the adjuster towards the thicker side of the shaving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next thing to look at is your body position.  For edge jointing you're typically planing across your body.  Typically you'll tilt the plane towards your body, taking heavier shavings on the close edge and lighter on the far edge.  To counteract this try to make sure your dominant elbow is in line with the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, though, squareness is never something that should be assumed.  When edge jointing a board you should have a small square close at hand and check several points on the board every few passes.  If you're out of square use a little more pressure on the high side of the board and check again.  This is definitely a tactile skill that takes some time to develop, so don't get frustrated if your first few edges take a long time to get straight and square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2020-08-26T16:01:10.693" LastActivityDate="2020-08-26T16:01:10.693" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10961" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10979" CreationDate="2020-08-24T17:30:28.773" Score="0" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a complete newbie to woodworking.  I do have a small Craftsman table saw, a miter saw, jig saw, circular saw, and various drills and a hand router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My nine-year-old daughter to build this wagon with me: &lt;a href=&quot;https://howtospecialist.com/playhouse/wooden-wagon-plans/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://howtospecialist.com/playhouse/wooden-wagon-plans/&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plans call for using pocket holes/screws for the basic frame (made out of 1x4 pine), but I've read that not everyone is a fan of them.  Would a rabbet joint or something else be better?  The only type of joints I've ever done is basic angle brackets or butt joints with screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other tips to keep in mind for this first project?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9096" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2020-08-26T00:55:06.763" LastActivityDate="2020-08-31T15:08:08.797" Title="How to decide what joints to use for a frame of a play wagon" Tags="|joinery|joints|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10952" CreationDate="2020-08-25T21:58:24.573" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If all of the pieces you are cutting are the same width, then make a fixture that constrains the work piece to exactly where you need it, then attach that fixture to the saw and clamp the work to the fixture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2020-08-25T21:58:24.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10958" CreationDate="2020-08-26T11:15:00.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes this is totally fine, there's no issue using waterbased stain followed by a finish with a different base, and in fact it's actually quite normal to do this&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often we ask about specific products when they haven't been named in the Question but it doesn't matter in this case — &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; oil-based finish, including straight oil, blended finishes like &amp;quot;Danish oil&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Tung Oil Finish&amp;quot; (note: doesn't contain any tung oil!) and all types of oil-based varnish will work equally well over a waterbased stain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;what is the proper way to perform this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a little too broad a query for here. But basically it goes like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;prep the wood (which should involve pre-raising the grain&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stain;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;let stain dry thoroughly;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;apply your oil-based finish.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; be very careful if you intend to sand the oil-based finish during application as again you risk revealing bare wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long after staining should I wait?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should find guidance for the stain you've bought in the product literature, maybe even on the container itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not satisfied that the generic advice provided suits your local conditions by all means err on the side of caution and wait a full day. You could wait two days and it won't hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Which may explain some of your difficulty in finding info on it, it's sort of a given that you can do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Because the water in the stain will otherwise raise the grain and you probably won't want to sand the wood (possibly at all) after the stain goes on because this risks sanding through the stain in spots, revealing bare wood. There is much existing advice here on how to pre-raise the grain, as well as elsewhere online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-08-26T11:15:00.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10965" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-26T22:16:21.273" Score="1" ViewCount="479" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a large box bench (80 inches long). Based on a family member's recommendation, I stained the wood first before planning to glue the wood trim on. Now that I found out that gluing stained wood won't provide a strong joint, I am at a loss on what to do to recover from this mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I get away with just gluing the trim pieces on to the bench? After all, it's just aesthetic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, what is the proper way to go about fixing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The surface of the bench is pine plywood. The trim is 1x4 poplar boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9103" LastActivityDate="2020-08-27T14:59:05.613" Title="Can I get away with glueing stained wood trim?" Tags="|joinery|wood|staining|glue|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10966" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11000" CreationDate="2020-08-27T14:49:08.053" Score="1" ViewCount="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00884121/document&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;process&lt;/a&gt; by which wood is heated several times in the absence of oxygen to improve its mechanical properties and to make it more resistant to rot.&#xA;See also these questions &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3460/does-burning-wood-increase-any-mechanical-proprieties?noredirect=1&amp;amp;lq=1&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2175/are-there-any-serious-and-non-obvious-disadvantages-to-thermally-modified-wood?noredirect=1&amp;amp;lq=1&quot;&gt;2&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be possible to get some of the benefits by heating wood in a home oven to around 200 degrees centigrade? Specifically I would like to make pine planks less resistant to rot so I can use them outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original process requires the absence of oxygen and demands high pressure, none of which are possible in a kitchen oven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8170" LastActivityDate="2020-09-08T15:45:58.207" Title="Can resistance to rot be improved with home heating?" Tags="|wood|thermally-modified|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10965" CreationDate="2020-08-27T14:59:05.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I get away with just gluing the trim pieces on to the bench? After all, it's just aesthetic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd try it. PVA wood glue that you're probably using is pretty strong stuff, and while it may be true that stain can reduce the strength of the bond, it probably won't reduce the strength enough to matter. Trim generally has a very large gluing area relative to the volume of wood that you're attaching, and that area will likely more than compensate for whatever loss in bond strength the stain causes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lightly sanding both surfaces before gluing will help to remove any stain residue from the surface and a bit of bare wood that'll help the glue bond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2020-08-27T14:59:05.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6807" CreationDate="2020-08-29T01:11:53.990" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try corner protector for boxes. I found some similar ones using that search. I didn’t try hard enough to find those exact brackets but some came close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9108" LastActivityDate="2020-08-29T01:11:53.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6807" CreationDate="2020-08-29T16:53:40.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few search's led me the term &amp;quot;&lt;strong&gt;plastic stacking corners&lt;/strong&gt;&amp;quot; OR &amp;quot;&lt;strong&gt;box stacking corners&lt;/strong&gt;&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.allenfield.com/product/plastic-top-corner-10mm/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is one example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several kinds of those but i was not able to find metal ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did find a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32859246117.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;metal corner&lt;/a&gt; that is not what you have referenced but could work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems you could also use a piece of angle aluminum fastened around the the outside corner (&lt;em&gt;or inside corner&lt;/em&gt;)  with screws, so it sits just higher then the top of the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2917" LastEditorUserId="2917" LastEditDate="2020-08-29T17:18:21.923" LastActivityDate="2020-08-29T17:18:21.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10971" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-29T17:51:07.293" Score="2" ViewCount="640" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a plywood from lowes for 49 for a table top. It has a smooth finish and has an almost white color. I sanded it with 150. Applied minwax pre stain and then dark walnut stain. All oil based.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I noticed few cross grain scratches after staining. I sanded the scratches over the stain until they disappear. Then I tried to re-stain the spot. But, now it does not accept stain. I tried to soak the spot with stain still did not work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later I removed the stain from the whole surface with thinner and then sanded it with 150. This time I applied Varathane water based dark walnut stain. This worked bit better on the spot. I even tried washing with soap and water to remove grease if there is any. But still it does not accept stain well. Any idea what is going on or what I can do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cuhoi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cuhoi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;This is how the spot looks after wiping the stain.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9109" LastEditorUserId="9109" LastEditDate="2020-08-30T18:36:44.807" LastActivityDate="2020-08-30T18:36:44.807" Title="One spot on a plywood does not accept stain. What can I do?" Tags="|finishing|staining|plywood|coloring|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10972" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10973" CreationDate="2020-08-30T00:53:35.927" Score="1" ViewCount="1494" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am attempting to create a reasonably smooth finish with no burrs or splinters on a softwood 2x4. No matter what I do there are still thin layers of wood that splinter off, especially near some knots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have chiselled then rasped then used a plane then a cabinet scraper and finally 100 grit with a random orbital then 120, 140, and 220 but there are still little “flakes” that run along the grain that catch and splinter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried sanding with the grain, across the grain and diagonal. This is Home Depot quality construction grade softwood so I’m not expecting miracles but there’s got to be a technique I’m missing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reverse face of the board took very well to sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3191" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-08-30T01:36:17.050" LastActivityDate="2020-08-31T14:36:08.980" Title="How to sand out splinters" Tags="|sanding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10972" CreationDate="2020-08-30T01:42:04.167" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a reason we don't make a lot of furniture out of construction grade pine in North America. Not only is it grown fast with no regard for how it works with hand tools, but it is kiln-dried in a manner that allows it to be sold and turned into stick-frame constructions fast. Few are going to try and &amp;quot;finish&amp;quot; it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you've done what you can. About the only advice I can offer is to get it close enough and then finish it with a few coats of a non-penetrating finish (i.e., one that hardens on the surface, consolidating the fibres) to make it artificially smooth. This often involves wet sanding to &amp;quot;raise the grain&amp;quot; so that these sort of flaky sections can be &lt;em&gt;lightly&lt;/em&gt; sanded down to some extent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-08-31T14:36:08.980" LastActivityDate="2020-08-31T14:36:08.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10974" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-30T17:37:17.957" Score="1" ViewCount="367" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an older DeWalt random orbital sander that I have recently replaced the hook Velcro pad. However within under 15 minutes of use brand new sandpaper disc delaminate - that is to say their loops remain attached to the sander’s hook pad but delaminate from the backing of the sandpaper disc itself, if you see what I mean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words the Velcro is holding, the pads themselves are pulling apart. What’s up with that? (I am not abusing the sander either)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have reviewed &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5008/orbital-sander-papers-coming-off&quot;&gt;Orbital sander papers coming off&lt;/a&gt; but that seemed to be the loop part detaching from the hook part which is not the case here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts? Cheap sandpaper? Is that even a thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3191" LastActivityDate="2020-08-30T17:37:17.957" Title="Hook and Loop sandpaper won’t stay on" Tags="|power-tools|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2896" CreationDate="2020-08-30T20:51:03.983" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That breakfront comment was genius.  I have to make a built-in for a sitting room off of a bedroom, and there is just 18&amp;quot; of space inside the windows on the back wall.  The plan is to build base cabinets, with bookshelves sitting on top.  The 18&amp;quot; is smaller than I would like for the base, especially since it defines the depth of the top, which will overhang, not the depth of the base cabinets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By doing the breakfront, I can make the center portion as deep as I want, probably ~24&amp;quot;, and recess the wings to fit the 18&amp;quot; depth.  That will also give me deeper shelves above the center base cabinet, which will increase versatility.  I'm starting on the design tonight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the original question, let your aesthetic sense be your guide.  Do you find a book's overhanging a shelf by just a bit, or even more, to be disturbing?  Then I'd go the 11.25&amp;quot; route (1x12 boards) or do the full 12&amp;quot; or a bit more if you are using plywood cut to size.  If you don't have books that would overhang a 10&amp;quot; shelf, I'd use that dimension, or something close to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most problematic books are the large format ones.  They can be 15&amp;quot; or more across.  It makes no sense to build a shelf to accommodate them.  They are called coffee table books for a reason.  People don't put them on shelves.  Still, in my base cabinet with shelves on top project, laying those books down with the spine out on the lowest level of the shelf structure, directly on top of the base cabinet top, is a useful and attractive way to store them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9111" LastActivityDate="2020-08-30T20:51:03.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10972" CreationDate="2020-08-31T12:27:59.210" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a quick follow-up, because I'm just stubborn, I tried a few more things, including a flap disc sander (the kind you attach to a rotary multi-tool) and while extremely bombastic and hard to control, got rid of the trouble problems due, perhaps, to the heat being generated in the process. After that I used a &amp;quot;mouse&amp;quot; style triangular sander to deal with all the circular score marks, and then the usual shakedown from 100-880 grit by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result, though still not pro-grade, is decent given the poor quality of the raw materials I was working with. Still accepting the original answer, but thought I'd add this in in case anyone wanted to try some alternative approaches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3191" LastActivityDate="2020-08-31T12:27:59.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10977" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-31T13:29:30.547" Score="2" ViewCount="1037" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have acquired a Danish vintage teak sideboard with distinctive inset wooden handles that the designer used on a range of pieces. Unfortunately, one of the handles has been damaged over the years and I would love to restore it in some way and would greatly value any advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of the handle in a good state. I imagine that the handles were made separately and then glued unto a routed-out hole in the face of the panel. There is no sign of the hole on the reverse face, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wvfCbm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wvfCbm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Handle in good state&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.viaantica.be//&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Via Antica&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of the broken handle. I guess there is an option of trying to build up new material onto this one, but the handle takes all the force of opening the panel, and I think that this is bound to fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/isrVVm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/isrVVm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Broken handle&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been offered a spare drawer-front with the same design of handle and so my question is what would be the approach to remove both the good and the bad handles in such a way that the good one then could be inserted back into the panel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9105" LastActivityDate="2020-09-11T13:49:47.633" Title="Remove and replace inset wooden handle" Tags="|wood-repair|handle|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10977" CreationDate="2020-08-31T13:43:40.523" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard to know for sure without more information (and more, specific knowledge of antique Danish furniture, I'm afraid).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering that it's an antique piece, I'm thinking that the piece is glued in with hide glue. If that's the case, you should be able to apply heat (and a maybe a little moisture) to loosen up the glue enough to pry the pieces out of the panels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd try applying the heat from a hairdryer for 10-15 minutes and gently trying to pry the piece out of the panel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.finewoodworking.com/forum/dissolve-remove-hide-glue&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dissolve/Remove Hide Glue&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/reverse-hide-glues-bond/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Reverse Hide Glue's Bond&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homeguides.sfgate.com/break-glue-joint-furniture-98750.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Break a Glue Joint in Furniture&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NEW INFORMATION:&#xA;From what I can tell, it is likely a piece designed by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pamono.com/makers/webe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Louis van Teeffelen for the Dutch furniture manufacturer WéBé&lt;/a&gt;. The company went out of business in the 1990s, but the handle was one of van Teeffelen's &amp;quot;signature&amp;quot; design elements. I'm thinking we now might be able to figure out what kind of glue was typically used by the manufacturer...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2020-09-02T15:07:01.010" LastActivityDate="2020-09-02T15:07:01.010" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10961" CreationDate="2020-08-31T15:08:08.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's capture some of the comments in an Answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this application almost any joint will do. Though, riding toys are subject to forces that might warrant putting on our engineering caps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea here is that the rails of the wagon are like rails on a deck. When force is applied at the top of the railing this translates to a lot of force at the joint, where the rail joins the decking. There are a few ways to guard against this, and the joinery used is actually not what is going to make the largest difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you are going to integrate the railings &lt;em&gt;directly&lt;/em&gt; to the deck with some fancy cabinetry joints, you are relying on mechanical fasteners anchored in various types of wood grain. This sort of connection will eventually fold up, probably quite suddenly. This might surprise a 9-year old rider inside the wagon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what we want to do is find a way to have these railings support each other, so they are better able to handle forces where they are weakest. This is why I think the design tries to tie the railings together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think about how your fasteners are weakest and strongest, and work within these parameters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will point out that the traditional wooden little red wagon is built a lot different than we see here. Typically, there is a butt-joined or mitred box with a rail down the middle that supports the bottom and carcase pieces that form the basis for attached the axles. Often there are metal or wood corner cleats. This stiffens the box to reduce racking and separating. Then the rails are often removable sections that drop into metal or wooden slots on the outside. The strength of the wagon relies on a stout box that the rails attach to, but they only have to resist the forces against them, not be the entire side support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lee Valley has &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/garden/garden-care/wagons/58425-all-season-convertible-wagon?item=45K2212&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;an example of what I'm talking about&lt;/a&gt;, but this is a very common and time-tested design. It can be found any number of places, and is based on a very typical design I'm sure you can find references for online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2020-08-31T15:08:08.797" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10980" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10981" CreationDate="2020-08-31T19:42:18.273" Score="2" ViewCount="6826" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using an Ikea dining table as my work table. It works wonderfully, is made of quality pine and looks good.  Recently, I was considering adding a VESA table clamp monitor stand but the table has a skirting less than 1&amp;quot; from the edge. This would make it hard for the clamp to have good purchase on the surface and bear weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture for reference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AETyC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AETyC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Table&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My idea was to buy a standard plank like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/p/Builders-Choice-1-in-x-6-in-x-8-ft-S4S-Poplar-Board-HLPO10608X/206201568&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this 1&amp;quot;x6&amp;quot;x4ft hardwood&lt;/a&gt; and glueing it using wood epoxy and/or other fasteners to the side or the back edge of the table. I can then use this overhand to add the VESA stands and maybe another microphone stand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lX4of.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lX4of.png&quot; alt=&quot;sketch&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The things I am absolutely unsure of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What thickness of plank do I need? My monitor is about 22 lbs and maybe another 10 lbs for the microphone. Will a 1&amp;quot; plank be think enough, or do I need a 2&amp;quot;x6&amp;quot;x4ft plank?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is wood epoxy strong? Would it be better to reinforce the join with screws? I don't own a drill currently, but I can borrow one (and maybe some expertise) from my neighbor if needed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I need to sand the joining surfaces?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but above all:&#xA;4. Is there a &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; better solution that by novice brain will not be able to come up with? :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any and all advice would be appreciated. I have not done wood working since high-school, so all advice, no matter how basic is really appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the table I am &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/ingo-table-pine-14630009/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIra6xkJXG6wIVuiCtBh3O1g-6EAQYASABEgKdRPD_BwE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;talking about&lt;/a&gt; and these are (&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07QNY2G4T&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;monitor&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B082W4B7SX&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;microphone&lt;/a&gt;) the stands I am looking at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&#xA;The skirting on the side is 2.5&amp;quot; high and 1&amp;quot; from the edge of the top surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit2:&#xA;Came up with another idea - I could cut a small 1/2&amp;quot; channel in the 2.5&amp;quot; side surface as such:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8SsSN.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8SsSN.png&quot; alt=&quot;idea2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here the pink solid shape is the area I would drill out. I'd then have to find a solution to reinforce the skirting (in case its load bearing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9114" LastEditorUserId="9114" LastEditDate="2020-08-31T23:58:17.507" LastActivityDate="2020-09-03T15:00:22.317" Title="Adding a &quot;plank&quot; like section to the edge of a table to allow for monitor stands/ mic stands" Tags="|furniture|safety|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10980" CreationDate="2020-08-31T21:06:18.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mounting a monitor (selected as the heavier of the two) to a stand or arm assembly will change the leverage the mount can place on the foundation. If you consider the monitor directly above the base, the force is vertical and represents, generally speaking, the weight of the monitor and assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the monitor is moved forward, the leverage increases, effectively increasing the force on the base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using both wood glue and screws would result in a joint of greater strength than either alone. The glue is going to be clamped by the screws, which is easier than managing an edge clamp without screws. Screws alone are subject to movement which can loosen over time. One could periodically re-tighten the screws, but eventually the forces would work to strip out the holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Avoid attaching to end grain. Sand both surfaces, clean both surfaces, but do not create curved edges which will result in gaps between the two pieces. If you can get long enough screws to pass through the additional board, ensure that the holes you pre-drill to prevent splitting are square and centered in the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another method of attachment with screws is to use pocket screws and appropriately drilled holes. It has the advantage of shorter screws and somewhat hidden holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Number four is more an addendum than a stand-alone answer. Using the portion of the table which hangs vertically, you can place a bracket of a form similar to a gusset, screwed and glued to both the add-on board and the vertical portion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.samsmetalworks.com/products/handcrafted-wood-truss-shelf-bracket-set-with-steel-gussets-multiple-sizes-decorative-shelf-brackets-wooden-corbels&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sam's Metal Works&lt;/a&gt; has a more elaborate item than my suggestion, but it serves as a useful example. Consider the triangle to be constructed from solid wood, perhaps scraps cut from the board purchased for the extension. They would mount in a manner similar to a shelf support, providing additional torsion strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e8tc2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e8tc2.png&quot; alt=&quot;shelf supports&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the added plank is an overlap, you gain substantial strength. You can get away with a 1&amp;quot; plank if you provide the under-surface support, as it will resist twisting. Without the under-surface support, 1.5&amp;quot; should be oka.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastEditorUserId="3985" LastEditDate="2020-08-31T23:39:18.803" LastActivityDate="2020-08-31T23:39:18.803" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10980" CreationDate="2020-09-01T03:37:41.663" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many monitor stands have the option of mounting with a clamp through a hole in the table as well as a clamp at the edge.  This allows the mount to be placed further in from the edge.  The hole is not ideal in a table used as a temporary desk, but is penalty fine in a dedicated deal if the monitor arm will be a permanent addition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9116" LastActivityDate="2020-09-01T03:37:41.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10977" CreationDate="2020-09-01T13:29:41.373" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I may as well mention the obvious:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't replace it at all. Since the overall handle is in good shape, and because it is a contoured shape that will be &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; hard to remove cleanly, you might be better off just repairing the break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use the existing extra handle to match the wood, or go through your scrap pile looking for some sort of match (or contrast, repairs are never truly invisible, so a technique is to lean into the charm of well-lived cabinetry). You want to look for a piece that matches the grain structure and direction. Colour can be approximated with stain or just left as-is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is you carefully shape both the existing handle and the replacement piece, dry-fitting as you go, to get something that can be shaped to look like the existing handle, which also mates nicely to the existing wood with a decent glue joint. You want to keep the repair pieces proud of the rest of the handle so final shaping is possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could use brads to help keep the position during glue-up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll want to dry fit with your clamping a few times so you get it right. You might need a selection of cauls to get the pressure to the right places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once cured, you could use chisels, scrapers, and clever stick-and-sandpaper tools to help merge the repair into the rest of the handle. Stain and finish as you like, either trying to merge the repair into the rest of the handle, or letting it be an obvious battle scar for character.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-09-06T12:23:45.247" LastActivityDate="2020-09-06T12:23:45.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10985" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-01T18:43:20.050" Score="0" ViewCount="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to build a vertical farm for practical and decorative purposes. It would be a tube design where I pump water to the top and it would trickle down along the sides of the tube, watering the little holes with plants along the way. Since I want to build it out of whats cheaply available here (mystery planks, probably pine or spruce) and my previous experience with exposing that stuff to water, I'd need to waterproof it somehow. Since the plants that would grow there would be edible, it should also be free from chemicals that could leach into the plants and then into the food.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of finish could I use on the inside of the tube to prevent the water from destroying it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9120" LastActivityDate="2020-09-01T18:43:20.050" Title="Food safe water proofing finish?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10980" CreationDate="2020-09-03T15:00:22.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A complete alternative is what I have right here, which avoids cutting or drilling into your existing table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's an offcut of 28mm beech kitchen worktop (the cutout for the stove/sink combination in my campervan, tidied up a bit) on kitchen cabinet legs.  Worktop and legs are both from Ikea, though the legs are discontinued.  The overall height is about 20cm, and the monitor stand clamps onto the back. I've got a nicely variable height monitor stand to go with it.  Stability is perfect as the centre of gravity of the stand+monitor is over the middle of the shelf, which is 28cm front-to-back&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a nice bit of extra space as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4ZDBA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4ZDBA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Desk stand&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;My desk is fairly tidy by my standards at the moment, but I did have to redact a bank statement.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2020-09-03T15:00:22.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10989" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-04T18:47:08.140" Score="0" ViewCount="70" Body="&lt;p&gt;it is on the back of the dresser on the corner 2x2.  It is about 3 inches long and 1 inch. There is no finishing in that part of the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X1IMJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X1IMJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9127" LastActivityDate="2020-09-06T08:54:26.563" Title="Is rotted wood used in the construction of a dresser going to cause issues in the future?" Tags="|furniture|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10990" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-04T19:12:44.970" Score="1" ViewCount="1055" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will be creating a floating side table for my wife and am wondering the best way to join two pieces of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They will be joined in an “L” shape with the back of the L hanging against the wall and the leg of the L used as the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is what is the best way to join these two pieces so the table portion can bear a good deal of weight? Mortise and tenon? I’d like the two pieces, once joined and painted, to look like one piece (seamless).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also any idea of the best way of mounting it to the wall so it sits flush? I was thinking of recessing a French cleat in the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Type of wood suggestions are appreciated as well. Something that will provide a good deal of strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please see this quick drawing to get a better idea of what I’m talking about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/om4Q1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/om4Q1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hand drawn diagram of my idea&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9129" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-09-06T13:35:23.363" LastActivityDate="2021-05-25T19:25:35.210" Title="Best method of joining these two pieces seamlessly?" Tags="|joinery|wood|mounting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10991" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10993" CreationDate="2020-09-05T08:49:38.067" Score="2" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am upcycling a glass display cabinet and have found one of the doors has glass that was broken/cracked so I decided to investigate removing all of the glass from this door and think about how I can replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some photos of the door that has no issues, to give you an idea:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AM7DC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AM7DC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uk0Hb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uk0Hb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DXVsl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DXVsl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BYhhp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BYhhp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Full front of cabinet door&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Closer up view of the more detailed area of the front&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reverse side of this detailed area including how it is affixed to the glass&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Detailed view of the glass/wood interface&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I chiselled away the dark material that helped affix the glass to the wood it revealed that each of the sections of glass were in fact separate and not one curved sheet as I had initially thought (see image below for profile shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VO9g1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VO9g1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also found, with the fixing agent removed, I could see that the glass was being separated be thin splines of wood (I have saved these) that fit into grooves in the facia struts (as can be seen below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V2ZPR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V2ZPR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kXxCD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kXxCD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VBHdN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VBHdN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Same view as image &lt;strong&gt;4&lt;/strong&gt; above, this time with the brown fixing agent &amp;amp; spline removed (and painted of course)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;image of the thin wooden splines&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Area with the spline placed back in place as example&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Advice required&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So basically, I am wanting to either add glass back to the newly painted door to almost restore the original pattern with shaped pieces of glass, or I am wanting to alter the design of both doors to match such as a simple centre divider with 2 pieces of glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the best way to go about the first of these options? I ask for the first only as I can imagine the second will be relatively simple to achieve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Follow up questions would be things such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What would be the best glass for this? The original was pretty thin but not too delicate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How would one go about shaping/cutting the glass accurately?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should the splines be replaced? If so - with what?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How would one go about affixing the glass to these splines? I have seen wood putty can reproduce the original 'look'.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;As always, many thanks in advance to the wisdom can impart on me :-)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8149" LastEditorUserId="8149" LastEditDate="2020-09-05T21:18:03.147" LastActivityDate="2020-09-05T21:42:32.630" Title="Advice for repairing shaped glass cabinet doors" Tags="|wood|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10977" CreationDate="2020-09-05T16:25:19.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe I missed this in all the back and forth, but I don't see it as impossible to remove the replacement handle by destroying the donor front, and it's not impossible to carefully chisel out the broken handle from the keeper unit. (Having the experience of harvesting the replacement will tell you how much depth of panel you have behind the handle, which will tell you how careful to be when chiseling.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately (and I'm sure conservators are throwing things at their screen on reading this), you could slice the broken handle flush to the face of the keeper piece, harvest the replacement handle by slicing flush to the face and then epoxying new onto old. This would depend on the original being smaller or equal to the size of the replacement. If the replacement was smaller, then all bets are off. Chances are, things would get a little scuffed and require refinishing, which again has the conservators cursing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2020-09-05T16:25:19.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10991" CreationDate="2020-09-05T21:42:32.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the best way to go about the first of these options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Preparation:&lt;/strong&gt; Remove all glue, glazing compound and and spline pieces to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Splines:&lt;/strong&gt;  It looks like the existing splines have been damaged and you may have to replace some or all of them. There is no need to replace them if they are intact. I cannot tell for which direction the grain goes on the splines, but you should match directions with any new splines. You should be able to match width and thickness using a table saw.  Since the doors are painted you can use any species of wood you prefer including softwoods. Clean out any residue glue or wood remnants in the the frame grooves and glue the new splines using a PLA wood glue such as Titebond. Since the curves are gentle it should be possible to set the splines in place simply bending them into the grooves. Do a dry setup(before gluing to make certain that everything will hold during the drying period.  You should be able to hold the splines in the grooves using painters tape to insure that the splines hold in place during curing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Glass:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;In all probability any commercially available glass would work. Any commercial glass &amp;amp; mirror store should be able to match the thickness needed. If the original glass was very old and has desirable hand made irregularities, you may want to seek out a stained glass supply store or artist to consult to find matching glass.  Obviously you want the thickness to match closely to other panels. You can cut the glass with a hand held glass cutter (stain glass suppliers have better cutters than are available at the big box store).  You may also need a glass cutters to to break the glass smoothly on the curves.  Online videos can show you how.  Draw the shape on a piece of paper, place the glass on the drawing and trace the curves with the glass cutter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Installing the glass:&lt;/strong&gt; The glass appears to have been installed using glazing compound. This was the most common way to install individual glass panes in wood windows before modern plastic systems were used.  You can find the compound at any big box home store and watch videos to learn how to apply it.  Let it dry thoroughly before painting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2020-09-05T21:42:32.630" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10995" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10998" CreationDate="2020-09-06T05:29:57.770" Score="3" ViewCount="2426" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a hutch/book shelf for a small desk (2'x4').  Width of hutch is 48&amp;quot;, depth 9.25&amp;quot;, height about 18&amp;quot;.  Wood is nominal 1&amp;quot; thick &amp;quot;appearance boards&amp;quot; from a big box store, probably whitewood or clear pine. Back rail and panel might be thinner if I can find thinner boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not meant to be fine furniture.  It's a project with my daughter for her &amp;quot;school from home&amp;quot; desk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was originally just thinking of using finish nails in the end grain connections (shelf and top).  I recalled that nails aren't optimal in endgrain, but I was also planning on using wood glue, which I understand is pretty amazing these days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will hold school books, which do get heavy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How important would it be to upgrade to screws?  Or should I really do a dado joint (I would probably need to break out a chisel for the 10&amp;quot; long dados - I don't own a router nor table saw.  Maybe I can justify buying a router now!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I do a dado, are screws then overkill?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:  thank you everyone!  I went ahead and bought a router to make the dados and the also rounded all the edges.  Those two modifications really make a plain piece much nicer!  I’ll post an photo after we’re done!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rcr7k.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rcr7k.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9135" LastEditorUserId="9135" LastEditDate="2020-09-07T19:04:59.767" LastActivityDate="2020-09-07T19:04:59.767" Title="Nails plus glue into endgrain vs screws plus glue vs dado (for shelf)" Tags="|furniture|screws|end-grain|dado|nails|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10996" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-06T07:01:16.657" Score="1" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a structure for a swing and I saw this design online. I have used 4x4 fence posts but I am now looking at it and testing it, and feel it is a bit flimsy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am going to add braces either side to aid in transfering the load. However, I think I need to beef up the post I was thinking of applying either 5X2 or 6x2 to the structure overall to encase it, gluing and fixing with hardware. Would this help do you think? It would In Effect make the post an 8 X 8. If I used 6X2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main flex I am seeing when testing is in the main post. I weigh about 15 stone (215lb). It is for the kids but we have a hammock swing that as adults we like to use for extra seating so ideally want to support about 20 stone to be safe so if people this down in the chair it can take it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Help appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lm62H.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lm62H.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;What I Have&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9136" LastActivityDate="2020-09-09T17:46:30.023" Title="Strengthen a post and beam structure" Tags="|timberframe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10989" CreationDate="2020-09-06T08:54:26.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's not rot, it appears to be a small section of 'live edge', i.e. the original surface of the tree, or possibly the former site of a large, irregular knot which is no longer present. Either way it's basically nothing to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the wood appears to be maple&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; this could also be a bark inclusion&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, which is something maples are known for more than some other species.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may seem careless or slapdash to leave something like this without doing &lt;em&gt;something&lt;/em&gt; (I guess the most obvious thought would be filling it) but you tell us it's on the back, and as odd as it sounds there's actually a long tradition in furniture making of using rougher wood, and even pieces with defects, for surfaces that aren't usually seen. Even some quite fine furniture from the past could have &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; rough boards hiding at the back, or inside the carcass. Now, as then, it makes good economic sense to use wood that isn't suitable for show surfaces for parts that aren't visible in normal use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Quite characteristic to experienced eyes once it has finish on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; What happens is that sometime during the growth of the tree something happens that causes a small section of bark to be left behind and completely encapsulated it the growing wood. If the tree is sizeable when felled these bark inclusions can be very deep inside the trunk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-09-06T08:54:26.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10995" CreationDate="2020-09-06T13:10:02.810" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your question, without actual joinery like dovetails or dadoes, I'd recommend glue-and-screw. That is, some mechanical fastener that actually gives those butt-joints some strength. Because, while PVA glue is incredibly good, it is not at its best with all of the joint being 50% end-grain. Many joints like dove-tails, fingers, dadoes, or rabbets would offer &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; long-grain to long-grain surfaces to mate, which is where the best glue line will be found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, grooves for the vertical pieces will aid in placement and glue-up, and will give you some strength against racking forces. But another benefit would be more long-grain as part of the glue-line, even though both axes would be less superior end-grain-to-long-grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 1x4 or whatever in the back is there to guard against racking side-to-side, and would almost certainly need to be screwed unless you did a full or half-lap into the vertical pieces. You could get away with no mechanical fasteners if you had a nice clean half-lap, but I'd use at least two properly installed screws. This part would offer a less superior glue-joint, but its main job is to offer mechanical strength against racking, especially with a tight lap joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, if you don't want to make any joinery at all, you should use mechanical fasteners, and I'd recommend screws for simplicity and speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(An side on screws. Remember that it is the &lt;em&gt;head&lt;/em&gt; of a correctly designed &lt;em&gt;wood&lt;/em&gt; screw that gives you the strength in &lt;em&gt;wood&lt;/em&gt;, so you want sufficient threads fully engaged into the second piece, with the top piece essentially only being clamped to the second; few threads should be actually engaged in the top piece. Think of the screw as a local clamp to ensure good glue joints.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also occurs to me that pine or other soft &amp;quot;white&amp;quot; wood will really want to cup and twist, and there is nothing in this construction that will dissuade this from happening. Since this is not heirloom furniture, that might be acceptable. But, accept that this may not sit perfectly flat, and may even split as the wood moves perpendicular to the grain as the seasons change and indoor spaces change in both humidity and temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The alternative is to consider gluing up panels, alternating the grain to minimize cupping in the same direction. You can also buy softwood  dimensioned panels so this is done for you already. I'd actually recommend buying these pre-made panels for this reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-09-06T16:30:09.227" LastActivityDate="2020-09-06T16:30:09.227" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10966" CreationDate="2020-09-06T14:07:34.690" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer this question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I heat-treat wood in a similar manner to the quoted paper and get&#xA;the results I want (resistance to rot), with none of the downsides mentioned in the same&#xA;paper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The short answer is, no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your purpose there isn't much benefit, even if it &lt;em&gt;would&lt;/em&gt; work (which it will not), because many of the benefits of using wood for a chair are also changed with this process. Most of the strength was reduced, and especially the elasticity. There was a gain in compression strength that you didn't need in the first place. (A chair will only see so much compression testing from a human sitting in it. Elasticity and resistance to racking are way more important for furniture like this.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the rot-resistance, I remain unconvinced. It reduced some fungal attacks, probably by removing or converting the only part of the wood that fungus likes to eat. Basically, it did the job the fungus wanted to do, just quicker?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what about all the other things in the world that want to eat wood? Fungus is only one aspect of what we call &amp;quot;rot&amp;quot;. A good part of wood breakdown is simply exposure to elements that cause the wood to move away from glue and fasteners, and UV light breaking down the connections in the wood itself. Insects like ants and wasps would still be interested in making paper from your furniture, if they get the chance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The authors make this very clear:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although heat treatment is an effective modification method to&#xA;improve  the  dimensional  stability and resistance  against fungal&#xA;attack there are undesired side effects, mainly due to the high&#xA;temperatures involved (150–280◦C). Reductions of mechanical properties&#xA;of wood were noticed after heat treatment, e.g. the resistance to&#xA;shock, modulus of elasticity (MOE), bending strength (MOR), compressive&#xA;resistance, shear strength, and abrasion resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, more to the point, this process does not allow the carbon in the wood to easily combine with oxygen (which carbon really wants to do). So in your oxygen-rich oven all you would be making is really, really slow charcoal. You would not get the purported advantages of whatever mechanical or chemical process is going on at low-heat low-oxygen environments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to recap:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can't really reproduce what they are doing in this paper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Even if you could, you don't get any real advantage in doing so.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-09-08T15:45:58.207" LastActivityDate="2020-09-08T15:45:58.207" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10995" CreationDate="2020-09-06T16:42:48.543" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dados would be best, since the mechanical part of the joint will carry most of the load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go with butt joints and fasteners, I'd suggest pocket screws instead of either nails or screws into end grain. Pocket screws go into the face of the board instead of the end, so they should hold better. In most cases pocket screws are easier to hide, so you get a nicer looking project. The pockets can be made on the bottoms of shelves, for example, so that you normally wouldn't see them. That seems better than rows of screw heads going into shelves visible from the outside of the project. (You can always countersink the screws and plug the holes, of course.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A starter pocket hole jig like the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kregtool.com/shop/pocket-hole-joinery/pocket-hole-jigs/kreg-pocket-hole-jig-310/KPHJ310.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;310 from Kreg&lt;/a&gt; costs about $20. It's not hard to make your own with a block of wood and a bushing, but you'd still need to buy the stepped pocket hole bit, stop collar, and a long driver bit, so it's probably best to just by the jig (which includes all of those).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typical PVA woodworking glue &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; very strong, but it's not quite as strong when you're gluing end grain. And in any case, I wouldn't want to rely on glue alone to carry the weight of a shelf full of books.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2020-09-06T16:49:11.647" LastActivityDate="2020-09-06T16:49:11.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11002" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11003" CreationDate="2020-09-07T04:53:08.860" Score="2" ViewCount="784" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a used Craftsman 113 series 10” table saw.  I don’t know how old it is. The model number is in one of the photos below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The saw has four threaded holes in the cast iron top that go completely through (circles on the photo below). I found a user manual for a similar 113 series saw but there was no mention of those holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea what the 4 holes are for?  Feather boards?  Clamps?  What’s can I use them for and what should I not use them for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, this is my first post on the Woodworking site. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8rt1j.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8rt1j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;table saw with holes circled&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TVv4e.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TVv4e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;table saw model and serial number&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8915" LastActivityDate="2020-09-07T09:53:56.820" Title="What are the four holes in the top of my Craftsman 113 Series table saw?" Tags="|table-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11002" CreationDate="2020-09-07T09:53:56.820" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.manualslib.com/manual/150281/Craftsman-113-298141.html#manual&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;fairly comprehensive manual&lt;/a&gt; for this specific model does not show the holes indicated in the image. One of the later pages of the manual shows lubrication points for the mechanisms involved in tilt and height, but those points do not coincide with the holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible that the holes are related to the manufacture of the product, perhaps involving truing/planing the bed surface or it could be that the previous owner created a custom jig which required them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The threaded holes would create a solid, accurate and precise means of clamping a custom jig to provide for safer operation than that accomplished with &amp;quot;ordinary&amp;quot; clamping methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2020-09-07T09:53:56.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11005" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-08T13:56:01.377" Score="0" ViewCount="157" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am replacing my bathroom drop ceiling panels with lightweight 1/4&amp;quot; sanded plywood (not exterior grade) that I am cutting myself. I am planning on staining them and then putting on some kind of polyurethane or sealer. Does anyone have specific recommendations for what I should use to ensure moisture doesn't affect them..especially above the shower? The bathroom is small, poor ventilation, although I do have a small fan in there near the ceiling and leave the curtain open after showering. I do have cans of Helmsman spar urethane clear semi-gloss, Parks Gloss Polyurethane and a satin Minwax Polyshades. Perhaps one of these would work? Always nice to use up the stuff sitting in the basement. Thanks so much in advance for your suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9145" LastActivityDate="2020-09-08T13:56:01.377" Title="How can I seal a stained wood drop ceiling above the shower?" Tags="|water-protection|moisture|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7977" CreationDate="2020-09-09T15:07:06.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I realize this is an old question, but here's an alternate solution:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have a 5&amp;quot; wide piece of plywood ripped at a 45 down the middle. You want to have the nicer side facing away from the wall since any cleat not in use will be visible. Call this the &amp;quot;bottom&amp;quot; half of the rip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of flipping the &amp;quot;top&amp;quot; half over so its bevel is the right way to attach to the wall and accept the next piece of cabinet, use the &amp;quot;top&amp;quot; half on the back of the cabinet as the hanger piece. Since nobody will ever see any of this, it doesn't matter at all what either side of it looks like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've got more wall than you have cabinet, you'll have all the nice &amp;quot;A&amp;quot; side of the plywood showing where it's not covered by cabinet, and you can store the &amp;quot;top&amp;quot; halves for use on future cabinets as you build/buy them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2020-09-09T15:07:06.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10996" CreationDate="2020-09-09T15:54:13.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fact that your main post is flexing under load isn’t surprising given how far out the horizontal beam extends. On the up side it tells me the joint between the two is very strong, so, well done with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding an additional post to your main post (to the side facing or opposite your hammock) would definitely make the design stronger and may be necessary for the structure to survive normal use over time.  If you reinforce the main post, it would need to extend under ground to the depth of the current post. Otherwise you are transferring that load to the point where the post is not reinforced and you are likely to see bending there instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two more two suggestions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Consider shortening the length of the horizontal beam. This will reduce the force bending your vertical post and also put less strain on your joint.  Think about holding a heavy bucket close to your body versus at arms length. At arms length the bucket exerts a more powerful force on you and takes more effort on your part to hold it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Also consider adding a brace at a 45 degree angle from the vertical post to the horizontal beam, on the side closest to your hammock. The triangle created is incredibly strong and will make both the vertical post and horizontal beam much more rigid. This is also an old method for creating a rigid structure to hang anything from a sign to a lantern (see the image below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take any significant bending/flexing on this structure that supports the weight of a person as a warning sign. Ideally it should be strong enough to survive occasional rough use or even abuse, so I suggest building in a significant safety margin and testing it with a much heavier load, say 400 lbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck and whatever you end up doing, let us know how it turns out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RZTmP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;lamp post&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8915" LastEditorUserId="8915" LastEditDate="2020-09-09T17:46:30.023" LastActivityDate="2020-09-09T17:46:30.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11008" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-10T16:11:32.483" Score="1" ViewCount="8677" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I recently bought a piece of furniture which (based on my research) has a polyurethane finish. After it arrived I discovered it had scratches, which I believe is polyurethane flaking off (you can flake it off/scratch it with your fingernail really easily). They are only surface scratches and don't go into the wood however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would I go about removing the surface scratches? I've seen articles suggest either sanding the entire polyurethane finish and applying another coat or sanding, applying a finishing wax and using 0000 steel wool to polish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know nothing about woodworking and I'm not sure what article to believe so was hoping to get some helpful advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NLTjp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NLTjp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9158" LastActivityDate="2022-02-18T20:43:36.807" Title="How to fix polyurethane finish peeling off furniture" Tags="|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11009" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11015" CreationDate="2020-09-11T01:38:42.323" Score="0" ViewCount="170" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to start working on my first woodworking project: a plant stand. It's quite a large project (for being first project), but my neighbor has worked on some projects and he can help me to some extent.&#xA;I sketched up the project purely based on what I want it to look like after watching a few woodworking basics YouTube videos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's made from 2x2, 2x4 and 2x1 and I was planning to use standard grade pine.&#xA;My plan is to use pocket holes + screws for all the joints except the 2x1s; the 2x1s would be nailed on the respective base members.&#xA;The total height is 6ft, the width is 48&amp;quot; and the depth is 16&amp;quot;.&#xA;It consists of 2 types of sub-assemblies: once base stand and multiple insert racks that just sit on the 2x4 members of the base stand and are held in place by weight of the plants + the locking 2x2 members on either ends (I would need to rotate these insert pieces to pass them through the base stand during assembly)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some specific questions I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I prevent it from tipping over? I plan on putting some heavy plants on base rack. Do I need to attach any extra wood pieces at base along 16&amp;quot; dimension. I do not want to attach to wall because I want to move the stand outside in summer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The base joint where vertical 2x2 piece joins the horizontal 2x2 is weak in my view. I was thinking of adding a 2x4 cross member (see zoomed picture) that attaches to both 2x2 pieces with pocket screws. Additionally, I was thinking of using corner braces at this joint. Would that make it strong enough?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any design flaw I am missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall design:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IP9aT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IP9aT.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Close up of base joint:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BfDMI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BfDMI.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With an added, mid-level, rack:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LaTg2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LaTg2.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mid-level rack close-up:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o4fkP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o4fkP.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rack close-up:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q4LG7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q4LG7.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9160" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2020-09-15T12:13:00.573" LastActivityDate="2020-09-15T12:13:00.573" Title="Strengthening plant stand butt joints" Tags="|strength|butt-joint|timberframe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10977" CreationDate="2020-09-11T13:49:47.633" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a slightly different answer to your question. First, I agree with @jdv &amp;quot;Don't replace it at all.&amp;quot; But my reasoning is different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You said this is a vintage piece, designer made, Danish, and from teak wood. The first rule of antique or vintage designer collecting is: Do not alter things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to deface an antique or vintage piece is to change something, even a broken something. You never sand off rust or re-finish a stained table leg. You don't collect a Gustav Stickley desk and remove a chipped corbel and replace it with one you made in the garage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These things not only deface the piece, they ruin its collectable value. That's the same as ruining its monetary value. At present, teak is priced right up there with say, gold. You have vintage, Danish Teak, so just in materials alone you're likely sitting on a small fortune. The fact you know it was made by a known Danish designer, most likely makes it even more valuable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My humble answer is to maintain it as is. Enjoy it as a whole, flaws and all. You might console yourself with keeping the part containing the undamaged matching handle. That way if you ever sell it you can offer it to the buyer so they have the option to attempt an ill-advised repair. Either way, the wood looks beautiful and I hope you enjoy displaying the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9035" LastActivityDate="2020-09-11T13:49:47.633" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10790" CreationDate="2020-09-14T00:36:55.513" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...I’m not sure if I should approach it as adding to the tenon or filling the mortise to make them match. Which is the better option, or is there some other way that I haven’t thought of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding to the tenon and filling the mortise are the same solution; either way, the glued up joint is the same, with a 1&amp;quot; tenon going into material that fills the 2&amp;quot; mortise. Instead, you need to decide whether you're okay with the existing tenon or want something larger. The alternative to what you've proposed is to remove the existing tenon, cut a mortise into the rail, and use a loose tenon to join the two sides of the joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2020-09-14T00:36:55.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11013" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-15T01:45:07.967" Score="0" ViewCount="53" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a router bit to make a nice edge on a board. I was able to do 2 sides but when I tried to do the 3rd side the bit kept falling out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tighten with the two nuts but the bit keeps falling out. How can I fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9169" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-09-15T09:21:39.213" LastActivityDate="2020-09-15T09:21:39.213" Title="Router bit problem (falling out)" Tags="|router-bit|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2020-10-10T06:15:14.740" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11014" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-15T05:40:05.320" Score="1" ViewCount="222" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a piano with a black lacquer finish.  A piece of the finish has chipped off one of the legs.  I have the piece that has been chipped off and can fit it into the damaged part perfectly.  Is there a way to glue the piece of lacquer back?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9170" LastActivityDate="2021-06-12T11:06:45.593" Title="Can I glue back a piece of black lacquer finish onto my piano leg?" Tags="|technique|glue|refinishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11009" CreationDate="2020-09-15T09:09:11.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you use pocket screws for all the major joints here you don't have to have any particular worries about strength, they are very very strong if everything is done right&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this will see exposure to some weather (and the water from watering the plants I guess) be sure to use exterior-rated screws in the pocket holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I prevent it from tipping over?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sufficient weight on the bottom platform will make this bottom-heavy so I'd expect this to be pretty stable, especially if positioned alongside a wall normally when it's not indoors. Since it's tall a particularly high wind could still topple it of course, unless temporarily secured to the wall by a length of chain or strapping when outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The base joint where vertical 2x2 piece joins the horizontal 2x2 is weak in my view. I was thinking of adding a 2x4 cross member (see zoomed picture) that attaches to both 2x2 pieces with pocket screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd definitely go with 2x4s or even 2x6s there for strength and stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, I was thinking of using corner braces at this joint&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what you mean by corner braces here, but by all means add something&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; to give increased rigidity here if you feel it's needed. Rarely a bad idea to go stronger than you think is necessary in woodworking, until you have more experience and can better judge what's strong enough in a given situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Follow-on query from the Comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips on selecting wood type? I assume pine would be easiest to work with for first project?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually as odd as it sounds pine might not be the best wood type to start with, since to begin with you'll be buying &amp;quot;pine&amp;quot; from most common sources — it may be called pine but will be generic SPF (spruce/pine/fir) and you can be getting anything from those families depending on where you are exactly, and what's in stock at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even the size of the pieces you buy can change the species you're getting, from the same source. Larger boards are often a better wood simply because they have to come from larger trees, so they be cut from a better species (e.g. southern yellow pine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, this type of wood is usually poorly or only partially dried, because of the original intended use for the stuff — rough carpentry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So be aware that milder hardwoods are essentially easier to work with overall, and almost always will be seasoned better. Poplar is a decent choice for the US since it's very widely available, cheap, quite soft and easy to work. Soft sounds bad but it's uniformly that hardness, not hard/soft in layers like in softwoods which have hard latewood and soft (sometimes &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; soft) earlywood bands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Independent testing has shown that pocket-screw joints can actually exceed the strength of traditional M&amp;amp;T joins. There are worries they won't maintain this strength in the long term, but for stuff that isn't intended to endure they're one of a number of very suitable alternatives to traditional joinery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Gussets or diagonal wood braces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-09-15T09:09:11.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11014" CreationDate="2020-09-15T09:16:58.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. You can use superglue (cyanoacrylate/CA) for this, and get a near-instant repair, but there's a chance that you'll get some minor clouding on the surface from vapour, and if there any squeeze-out it could be a bear to remove invisibly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So epoxy would be better, as any excess that squeezes out is much more easily wiped from the surface whilst wet with dry cloth or paper towels, leaving no trace behind. The cheapest dollar store/pound shop 5-minute epoxy will be fine for this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have any PVA glue (white or yellow) it &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; work, but there's no guarantee it will strongly adhere to the black chip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-09-15T09:16:58.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11017" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-16T08:04:41.083" Score="1" ViewCount="369" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making shelves for shoes using MDF boards. The place where I want to mount them is between two wooden pillars of the staircase, so I thought about having the planks a little larger than the space between the pillars, and I made a cut-out for better appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the underside of the planks (shown in the photo) I made depressions where I can put iron flat profiles so that they are less visible from the side. I planned these profiles to strengthen the connection to the pillars, otherwise in case of stress or hits the MDF would not hold with only a small connection (screws) in the middle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The planks are ready, but I realised late that I cannot glue the iron profiles to the slots as I planned, otherwise I would not be able to tilt the planks when I install them, due to the L metal supports welded to the iron strips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A3GcG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A3GcG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The available thickness of the MDF is 6 mm, the thickness of the iron strips is 4 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I fix those profiles to the boards? or, are there other alternatives to fix the boards to the pillars in the cut-outs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hornbach.nl/shop/DREssELHAUS-Euro-schroef-verzonken-kop-kruis-6-3x9-mm-Pozidrive-PZ-galv-verzinkt-100-stuks/7807837/artikel.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; &amp;quot;Euro screws&amp;quot;, length 9 mm (1 mm less than the available material).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides the issue with these screws being 6.3 mm in diameter including the thread, while I have only 6 mm or 7 mm drill bits for the iron strips, my issue here is that I need to stop drilling 1 mm before the end of the MDF, to keep the appearance on the top side, but drill bits for wood have a quite long central spike, and metal drill bits have a conical tip which is not suitable: either: the center of the bit would need to go more than 1 mm further than the sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I could find a bit for routers, which have a flat cutting surface, but a router is not accurate enough (I think) for drilling exactly where I need it to be. A solution would be to apply the router drill bit to a column drill, and stop &amp;quot;drilling&amp;quot; 1 mm before the end of the MDF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will need an incredibly accurate placement of the holes compared to the metallic strips, but it may be doable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4774" LastActivityDate="2020-09-25T20:57:00.440" Title="How to connect these iron strips to an MDF board?" Tags="|screws|mdf|drill-bits|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11018" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-16T15:12:25.783" Score="-2" ViewCount="6891" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the Ikea Karlby countertop, which is a walnut veneer - can you use the Stockaryd oil to help treat and waterproof the countertop??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can't find anywhere on Ikea that says that this product can be used for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9174" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-09-16T18:30:33.083" LastActivityDate="2021-10-11T21:07:50.727" Title="Ikea Stockaryd wood treatment oil" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11018" CreationDate="2020-09-16T18:29:08.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It says this right in the Product Details for the Karlby worktops, under &lt;strong&gt;Materials &amp;amp; care&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;To ensure that your worktop ages gracefully, treat it regularly with STOCKARYD wood treatment oil; it gives the surface a beautiful sheen, protects the wood and prolongs the life of the worktop.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A note on the application guidelines for the Stockaryd: the wording doesn't emphasise clearly that after the second coat any unabsorbed oil must again be wiped off, which is a vital step in the application of all oil finishes of this type. If you leave &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; excess on the surface it will 'dry' but it will never be hard, and will leave the surface gummy or sticky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-09-16T18:29:08.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11020" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-16T20:26:18.823" Score="5" ViewCount="183" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a beginner woodworker and I'm trying to understand something super basic here - let's say I'm building a bookshelf that's 12 inches deep. Why do I need to glue (after jointing and planing) two boards that are 6 inches in width as opposed to one board that's 12 inches wide?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it because the two boards of 6 inches are stronger? If so, why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9176" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-09-16T21:01:41.487" LastActivityDate="2020-09-17T20:07:12.423" Title="Why do I need to use mutliple narrower pieces of wood when I can just use one wide piece?" Tags="|wood-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11020" CreationDate="2020-09-16T20:52:56.620" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can just use one 12 inch board. As long as the timber is seasoned properly, and at a suitable moisture level when you use it, it'll likely be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, there are some benefits to using multiple pieces:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your moisture levels are wrong or the timber has not been seasoned properly it may warp, twist, bow, etc. - using multiple pieces glued up protects against this somewhat. It is less likely that two (or more) different pieces of timber will want to twist, warp, etc. in exactly the same way, so if one does want to move then the second (and third, and fourth...) piece(s) will resist that movement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cost - it can be cheaper to get two (or more) smaller piece(s) than to get one large one. Sometimes this is because of things like finding defect-free timber - for example, it's easier to find a 6-inch wide piece with no defects (knots, etc.) than to find a single 12-inch piece. Taken to its extreme you will see (particularly on cheaper furniture) finger-jointed timber, where the wood is joined up not just in the width/depth but also in length, every few inches or so. This allows the very efficient use of timber since there is barely any waste - even the smallest pieces can be used.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strength - kind of tied into the points above about movement of timber and also defects, for more structural uses (timber laminated structural beams), this means that you can have enormous pieces of timber, glued up from smaller pieces, with no defects whatsoever. Laminated timber isn't &lt;em&gt;necessarily&lt;/em&gt; stronger than a non-laminated timber piece of the same size, but on average it will be because again you average out any tendency to warp, twist, crack, etc. This one doesn't really apply to your typical bookshelf but I've included it for completeness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shaping - again doesn't really apply here but gluing up multiple smaller pieces of timber (or thin boards to form a thicker one) allows you to create shaped timbers more easily. You can glue up several thin pieces, bending each one and inserting into a form of some kind, or e.g. clamping to a bench depending on scale, to end up with an arched or curved piece larger than what you'd be able to bend without steaming.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Handling - maybe you can't run a 12-inch board through your planer/thicknesser, but you can do two six-inch boards and then glue them together.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned, not all of these are going to apply in every case, but it's worth considering depending on your application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2020-09-17T17:58:06.257" LastActivityDate="2020-09-17T17:58:06.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11017" CreationDate="2020-09-17T07:57:54.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds as if drilling the holes for the screws as well as making the screws work at all, may be more effort for you than it's worth. You definitely aren't going to make this work by buying a router bit for your drill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You said you thought glue might be strong enough (and many types would be extremely strong) but you're worried about possible future disassembly problems using glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why not try this:&lt;/strong&gt; Get some good 2 sided tape from one of the woodworking supply stores. Rockler and Lee Valley Veritas both carry types meant for attaching to wood products. It's used all the time to temporarily attach wood to jigs and fixtures. You don't want the micro thin stuff. It likely wouldn't have enough thickness and give to make a good connection between the course MDF surface and your brackets. Lee Valley used to have a type made with a layer of interwoven threads between the 2 sides. It is very tenacious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure to sand or scrape the MDF surface smooth and remove any and all sanding dust from the wood. Wipe the mating metal surface clean with some alcohol, and press fit them together. Allow 5 to 10 min. to be sure it's stable and you should be good to go. Accidental bumping should not affect them at all. If the day comes you need to move or disassemble them, A few minutes with a hair dryer should soften things up enough to peel them apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9035" LastActivityDate="2020-09-17T07:57:54.953" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11020" CreationDate="2020-09-17T20:07:12.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's going to be really hard to find a 12+&amp;quot; board that is free of defects. You might find a board, but after you plane it out of twist, wind and cup it might be too thin. Often a board of a required width is ripped into smaller sections for saving as much thickness as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9049" LastActivityDate="2020-09-17T20:07:12.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11025" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11154" CreationDate="2020-09-17T20:27:57.727" Score="1" ViewCount="1098" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been making a pretty basic case from plywood and would like to apply some veneer.  Unfortunately, one surface needs levelling out because the plywood was a tiny bit warped.  I don't have pictures to hand but can upload some if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan is to apply wood filler then sand it down... but maybe there's a better way?  Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: The warp is not huge (a couple of mm at the worst point) but it's present on the top surface, which butts up against the side.  So, at the point where the warp is at it's worst, the side piece sits slightly proud.  I could sand down the side piece.  Sounds like that would be a more robust option, but perhaps less aesthetically pleasing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9178" LastEditorUserId="9178" LastEditDate="2020-09-18T18:46:10.160" LastActivityDate="2020-10-24T14:15:16.363" Title="Levelling off a surface for veneer" Tags="|veneer|filler|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11026" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-17T21:08:13.963" Score="2" ViewCount="492" Body="&lt;p&gt;We all hear the warnings about not going across the grain when fitting together boards, but obviously doors are constructed cross grain, with the grain of the rails going one direction and the stiles going the other. Why don't they split apart as the wood moves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2020-09-22T20:25:56.353" Title="Why don't door rails and stiles split apart?" Tags="|wood-movement|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11026" CreationDate="2020-09-18T00:04:44.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally wood rails are only several inches in width.  The expansion over such a short width is not significant.  As the width increases the overall expansion becomes more significant. Wood expands and contracts at different rates for each species and differently for width and depth.  However, it does not expand in length. The amount of movement will differ between species and the direction of the grain being considered (does the grain run across the width or across the depth). Also note that the width expands and contracts due to temperature and humidity changes.  If the wood is exposed to a constant environment there will be little change.  If the immediate climate changes significantly then the expansion and contraction will be more pronounced.  I would caution you that while the piece may be in a stable environment now, it may not stay there for long, so it is advisable to be conservative in your design. You can find plenty of information on the rates of species online by searching 'Calculating Wood Movement'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not found any reference materials recommending a maximum width for this type of joint, but I would certainly recommend keeping it below 3&amp;quot; (although paneled doors will often have wider pieces in their frame). Once the joint width is is beyond this size, I would recommend other joint options such as breadboard end pieces etc. where wood movement is better accommodated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2020-09-18T00:04:44.757" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11028" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-18T15:12:01.913" Score="2" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's lots of published data that characterize dimensional changes to wood as its moisture content changes. But in all of those publications, they seem to use a free-standing piece of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But are there any datasets showing how &lt;em&gt;much force&lt;/em&gt; is generated when a piece of wood cannot freely expand/contract in response to that various factors known to result in dimensional changes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is inspired by several DIY projects I've worked on. For those projects I wanted to know how I could nail / glue / screw / etc. certain pieces of wood to other, more dimensionally stable materials, in order to limit the wood's dimensional changes. But the question I'm asking here is a little more academic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9179" LastActivityDate="2022-12-05T06:00:55.097" Title="How to predict stress magnitudes due to moisture changes?" Tags="|moisture|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2022-12-07T13:29:54.710" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11025" CreationDate="2020-09-18T15:55:10.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've only ever done simple small veneers, but my research suggests that surface prep in terms of flatness is less important than cleanliness. All surfaces must be&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Acclimatized&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dust free; really, really dust free&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Free of oils, including finger grease&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your results will only be as good as your prep. Just make sure the surface is reasonably true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(As an aside, note that plywood &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; a type of veneer, so you are actually adhering two veneers together, if that helps with your research.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have to use filler, you will have to do research to figure out if it needs additional glue preparation. This goes for any surface, really. But with plywood in the home shop, the assumption is that you will be using contact cement and a roller. That is, I am assuming you do not have a hydraulic or vacuum press.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, your prep work will be more about preparing the surfaces for gluing up with a high-solids contact cement. This may include not just sanding to true (but not necessarily smooth -- check to see if your glue wants surfaces rough for good adherence) but also meticulous dry and damp dust removal, and probably at least one wipe with denatured alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also get adhesive backed veneers if you just want that convenience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-09-18T16:00:33.510" LastActivityDate="2020-09-18T16:00:33.510" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11026" CreationDate="2020-09-19T15:37:39.993" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why, solid wood frame-and-panel doors do split apart, especially big exterior doors or gates. Usually a stile splits around drawbore pins or there's a crack in the middle of a rail. You don't see it very often though because of climate controlled houses, new materials and sealants, because some cracks are painted over, etc. Also an experienced joiner prefers stable woods and assembles a door in such a way that wide rails can still move a little, very similar to how a wide panel is bread boarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9049" LastActivityDate="2020-09-19T15:37:39.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11025" CreationDate="2020-09-19T16:00:25.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's going to be a lot of filler and it would have to be a filler that bonds with your veneering glue well, also sanding it perfectly level is going to be a challenge. It's hard to advise without seeing the piece, but I would try figuring how to replace a warped part, or if that's impossible then whether a construction could be modified so that warped plywood part is level, i.e. maybe adding a support or a stiffener, gluing a corner block, gluing it to the butting piece, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a chance that a veneer might straighten the warped part if the part is thin. On thin panels it is recommended to glue a backer veneer to prevent warping, so maybe this could be used to your advantage - gluing a thicker backer or not gluing a backer at all, depending which way you want it to counter warp. This approach gives no guarantees of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9049" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2020-09-24T14:23:07.020" LastActivityDate="2020-09-24T14:23:07.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11032" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-19T22:23:54.060" Score="0" ViewCount="63" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm starting on a woodworking project to build a spice rack that looks like an old typesetter's or printer's tray. I've got most of the design worked out, but I cannot figure out how to make these fixings (or even what they're called). I could make it work without them, but they look very neat, and I like my fakery to be as accurate as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VdoRL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VdoRL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fixings on printer's tray&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They seem to be a thin metal disk, that is bent four ways, or on some of the joins, in a T shape, with what looks like a pin hammered through the middle. I'd love to know:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a) what are these fixing called? I might be able to just buy them, but despite extensive googling, I still have no idea what they're called.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b) any suggestions for making them. I've been thinking of some sort of jig that I can hammer some thin brass disks into, but I'm not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8115" LastActivityDate="2020-09-20T01:36:50.780" Title="What are these fixings for a printer's (letterpress) tray, and how can I make them?" Tags="|cabinetry|restoration|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2020-09-20T07:37:23.437" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11008" CreationDate="2020-09-20T09:57:18.687" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will not be easy to fix that. There are a lot of different kinds of polyurethane formulations. It is probably a thermoplastic, meaning no solvent is going to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try using acetone on the edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing you can try is to get an iron and a thin cloth and then carefully iron over the spots using the swatch of cloth as a protector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2020-09-20T09:57:18.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11035" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-20T15:34:14.013" Score="1" ViewCount="359" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to build some shelving (actually, on wheels, for use as a rolling cart) and I'd like to use 3/4&amp;quot; hardwood plywood for the whole thing, because it's cheaper than wood boards and I'm going to paint it, so things like grain and appearance are not so critical. This will be for kitchen stuff, not books, so there will be some weight, but lighter duty than bookshelves. The horizontal span will be 3', the height 6', and the shelf depth 6&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: can I use plywood for the vertical sides of the shelving as well as the shelves? Is 3/4&amp;quot; plywood strong enough for load perpendicular to the plies for this kind of use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4640" LastActivityDate="2020-09-20T15:34:14.013" Title="Using plywood for vertical shelving?" Tags="|plywood|strength|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11036" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-20T20:02:19.807" Score="2" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a long (almost 6' / 2m) clamp. Its similar in function to a US pipe clamp but the main body is a wood block, with notches cut or drilled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the UK I've seen the term &amp;quot;sash clamp&amp;quot; used, but those that I saw had entirely metal bodies, and I've never heard that term used in the US.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VcOFZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VcOFZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a0F3e.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a0F3e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="763" LastActivityDate="2020-09-21T15:22:34.317" Title="What type of clamp is this?" Tags="|tool-identification|clamps|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11036" CreationDate="2020-09-21T15:14:46.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Grizzly &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-24-Sash-Clamp/T31685&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sells&lt;/a&gt; a similar clamp and calls it a &lt;em&gt;sash clamp&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://cdn0.grizzly.com/pics/jpeg1000/t/t31685_det1-2c2755ae36cf09cdd571c948c0dc1628.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://cdn0.grizzly.com/pics/jpeg1000/t/t31685_det1-2c2755ae36cf09cdd571c948c0dc1628.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Grizzly sash clamp&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same term turns up several similar models at Amazon and other retailers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yours is obviously not a &lt;em&gt;pipe clamp&lt;/em&gt; as there's no actual pipe involved, but pipe clamps are also effectively the same thing: a head with a screw at one end, and a moveable foot that a slides along a pipe or bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your clamp might also be described as a &lt;em&gt;bar clamp&lt;/em&gt;, but I've seen people also use that term for F-clamps and Bessey-style parallel jaw clamps, both of which have the screw on the movable part instead of the fixed part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2020-09-21T15:22:34.317" LastActivityDate="2020-09-21T15:22:34.317" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11017" CreationDate="2020-09-21T20:42:01.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use threaded inserts similar to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ezlok.com/assets/documents/dimensional_drawings/DimDwg_Hex_Flanged.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; if you need the shelves to be held together with screws.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1XDKB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1XDKB.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The smallest of these would require something like filing them down to 9mm, but I don't think that would affect the functionality of the inserts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The insert that you want for MDF is the one on the extreme left in the picture--the one with the extremely course threads on the outside. They are made to go into MDF and &amp;quot;bite&amp;quot; better than standard screws.  The other two inserts pictures are for different applications. You don't want those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2020-09-25T20:57:00.440" LastActivityDate="2020-09-25T20:57:00.440" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11026" CreationDate="2020-09-22T20:25:56.353" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We all hear the warnings about not going across the grain when fitting together boards, but obviously doors are constructed cross grain, with the grain of the rails going one direction and the stiles going the other. Why don't they split apart as the wood moves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those warnings generally mean &amp;quot;don't join wide pieces with grain running crosswise without accommodating seasonal movement,&amp;quot; not that you can't ever join parts with crosswise grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost everything about a typical solid-wood exterior door is designed to allow seasonal movement without splitting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;frame and panel construction:&lt;/strong&gt; Much of the width of the door is made up of panels that float within their frames and have room to expand. The rails are narrow enough (4-10&amp;quot;) that they don't move much.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;mortise and tenons:&lt;/strong&gt; Rails are mortised into the stiles, giving a good mechanical connection. If you think about it, mortise and tenon joints &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; involve cross-grain connections, but they're one of the strongest joints around. Very wide rails will have two tenons instead of one wide one specifically to avoid a large cross-grain glue connection.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;finish:&lt;/strong&gt; A few coats of varnish or primer and paint significantly reduce seasonal movement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2020-09-22T20:25:56.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11040" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-22T21:22:28.520" Score="0" ViewCount="509" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Powermatic shaper, 3HP, with a 3/4 spindle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if it is appropriate to use a molding head of this type on that machine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oNSLE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oNSLE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The molding head will fit a 3/4&amp;quot; spindle/arbor. I can think of a few potential issues... one is the rotation speed. The shaper has a few speed settings so this may be OK. The second is the motor HP. This type of molding head seems meant for a radial arm saw, most of which would not be 3 HP. On the other hand they are also meant for table saws which certainly can be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="763" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2020-09-22T22:49:09.370" LastActivityDate="2023-01-12T03:13:37.920" Title="Is it safe to use a Craftsman molding head on a shaper?" Tags="|safety|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11041" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11042" CreationDate="2020-09-23T15:12:18.990" Score="0" ViewCount="133" Body="&lt;p&gt;My master's thesis is based on tactile detection of surface defects in wood surfaces. I am using standardized 20cm disks made from different wood species as samples for my system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The control samples are trivial to make by just sanding a defect-free piece of wood properly. The defect samples are where I'm facing issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that tools are (hopefully) designed to minimize defects as much as possible, it's not exactly easy to produce defects in a controlled and intentional way. Some types are easy (Scratches, dents caused by impacts, over-agressive sanding, etc.), but others like torn/fuzzy/raised grain, chip marks, knife burn, saw marks, aren't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How can I intentionally produce surface defects (without neglecting safety)?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Intentionally damaging (inexpensive) cutting tools like saw blades is an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3144" LastActivityDate="2020-09-23T16:25:09.657" Title="How can I create surface defects intentionally?" Tags="|technique|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11041" CreationDate="2020-09-23T16:25:09.657" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Raised grain is easy - get the wood wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Torn can be pretty easy, too - plane or chisel it in the wrong direction or with a dull tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what &amp;quot;chip marks&amp;quot; are, exactly, but if you plane into the end-grain (start the plane with the blade off the wood, then dig into it) of the wood, you're likely to tear out a chunk, which may be what you're after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Saw marks can be fairly easy - assuming you're slicing your &amp;quot;disks&amp;quot; off of a long rod, cut part of the way through, then move the piece slightly while continuing the cut. This is potentially dangerous as you can cause the blade to bind which could grab your wood and throw it. Be extremely careful doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not exactly sure what &amp;quot;knife burn&amp;quot; is, either, but if you use a dull saw or router bit you're likely to burn the wood. I'm not sure that you'd be able to feel the difference (though you can see it), I guess that's part of the research, eh?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2020-09-23T16:25:09.657" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11040" CreationDate="2020-09-24T00:02:13.990" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how well this will qualify as an answer as I have never tried to use mine on a 3hp shaper. I only wished to make a brief comment but it seems I don't have the rep points to leave comments yet. There's a safety concern involved so I hope the community will forgive me reaching out in the only way available to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have what appears to be the same tool and mine was indeed made for the table saw. The body of mine is solid cast iron and when loaded with cutters, is very heavy. I only used it on the saw a couple of times but never felt safe standing in front of that much rotating mass. My saw's speed is about 3400 rpm. The tool was rated at a slightly higher max rpm, I remember, but nothing near a real shaper's speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I stopped using it because I gained access to a relative's traditional shaper. This brings me to another point. With what I learned about using a shaper, I can see no way mine would have safely worked laying horizontally on a shaper spindle. In my case it would have involved major alterations to the fence or making a custom fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, I just wanted to caution you about trying to run it on a traditional shaper at shaper-like speeds. I always felt my contraption was unsafe at any speed and would never considered using it on a real shaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(edited for grammar)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9035" LastEditorUserId="9035" LastEditDate="2020-09-24T10:06:04.170" LastActivityDate="2020-09-24T10:06:04.170" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11044" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11047" CreationDate="2020-09-24T01:10:46.930" Score="3" ViewCount="375" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hopefully this is the right exchange for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently I started a DIY desk project in which my goal was to build a ~8ft long desk that could support a large load (~150-200lbs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This desk would serve mainly as a place to setup all of my computers for gaming as well as double as an office space for work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought an unfinished &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hardwood-Reflections-Unfinished-Birch-8-ft-L-x-25-in-D-x-1-5-in-T-Butcher-Block-Countertop-BBCT1502598/300688697&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;solid birch butcher block counter&lt;/a&gt; top from Home Depot measuring 98&amp;quot; x 25&amp;quot; x 1.5&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I finished this by hand sanding with 220 grit and applying three coats of &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B001XQ20WG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Minwax wipe on water based poly&lt;/a&gt;, sanding in between coats 1 and 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It came out perfectly and I was quite pleased given it was my first time doing anything like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RGisu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RGisu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;finished table&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My next step was to find a decent frame that could hold the weight and also support the middle of the table since I had concerns it might sag over time and a 5th leg kind of felt odd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided to take a gamble and buy a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplifiedbuilding.com/kits/pipe-desk-frames/table-frame-kit-z&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Simplified Building Z-Frame Table Kit&lt;/a&gt;. My thoughts here were that it could support the center and obviously handle a ton of weight. Being galvanized pipe I also figured I should be fine using it outside if I ever wanted to replace the table top and convert it to an outside table in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I ordered this kit I provided the dimensions requested and defined a height at 29&amp;quot; (ideal for my physical height)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rVieg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rVieg.png&quot; alt=&quot;invoice&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The kit came in and was easy to assemble, however I am now stuck as it appears the legs don't actually align properly to the corners&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ugm03.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ugm03.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;kit misalignment&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't seem to figure it out given that the documentation matches what I have, but images they provide have a perspective that show the legs aligned to the corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two questions really:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I were to fasten this right where it is, will I have any sort of structural/balance issues?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there something I am missing regarding this frame kit or a Z-Frame in general that might be impacting my ability to align these? I have not reached out to Simplified Building yet, but visibly its not obvious to me that there is a pipe length issue&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I received a response from Simplified Building, it turns out that the dimensions of my table break their formula for the Z-Frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also described what was mentioned by @Graphus: move the depth legs further down the length pipe. It turns out the width of my table would require the fittings to overlap around 1.5&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iaSWp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iaSWp.png&quot; alt=&quot;Z-Frame Problem&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They suggested that I convert this to an H-Frame and sent me new pipe. This also had the added benefit of providing more leg space, something I didn't think about, but some folks mentioned might become an issue, so I lucked out there!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/esVGb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/esVGb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Finished Desk 1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/omXuv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/omXuv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Finished Desk 2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ha4Qa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ha4Qa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Finished Desk 3&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9191" LastEditorUserId="9191" LastEditDate="2020-10-01T02:18:41.117" LastActivityDate="2020-10-01T02:18:41.117" Title="DIY Desk - Pipe Z-Frame dimensions issue" Tags="|tabletop|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11044" CreationDate="2020-09-24T06:33:21.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were to fasten this right where it is, will I have any sort of structural/balance issues?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nope. If the table were much smaller it might, but the wide stance of your table means even the two legs well in from the corners aren't going to impact stability in any way you'd notice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something I am missing regarding this frame kit or a Z-Frame in general that might be impacting my ability to align these?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not clear if the position of any of the connectors is variable or fixed. If it is variable you could try moving T-connector for the &amp;quot;outrigger&amp;quot; legs' right out as far as they will go on the long pipe. A quick back-of-an-envelope sketch suggests to me that this won't &lt;em&gt;quite&lt;/em&gt; do enough, but this sort of thing is hard to do visualise without actually drawing it accurately. So if there is adjustability doing this is worth a try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You didn't ask about this but I wanted to include a note on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My next step was to find a decent frame that could hold the weight and also support the middle of the table since I had concerns it might sag over time and a 5th leg kind of felt odd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For future reference, Woodbin's &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Sagulator&lt;/a&gt; will be your friend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do realise this is based on textbook values (and all wood varies, all the time) but the numbers it provides are a very useful starting point. Err on the side of caution and you're unlikely to run into a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thick glued-up workbench material like this, as it's made from hardwood and has all those glue joints, isn't anything that can be directly predicted by software because even more than a single-piece board no two pieces are going to be quite alike. But in practice you'll find panels like this are really amazingly stiff, and very resistant to deflecting even with quite a sizeable centre-only load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-09-24T06:33:21.113" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11044" CreationDate="2020-09-24T11:54:29.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your wood desktop looks great and should serve well. Nice job. It's thick enough that as, @Graphus said, it should not sag by any noticeable amount. The construction of many glued up boards should minimize any seasonal wood movement. If you're concerned about that just drill out the flange mounting holes or buy screws sized such that you end up with the mounting holes about 3/32 - 1/16&amp;quot; larger in diameter than the screw shafts. You still tighten and lock them down as usual but, that extra difference in diameter will easily compensate for wood movement. A &amp;quot;Vix&amp;quot; brand or generic hinge self-centering drill bit will keep the holes in the bench centered on the flange hole diameters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you at all worried about bashing your knees on the &amp;quot;Z&amp;quot; brace near the ends? That was the only thing that caught my eye. If you're good with the brace location, then as @jdv said &amp;quot;build it.&amp;quot; The staggered layout will cause no problems but it would have been nice if they had explained this layout for your size top, before you bought it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the photos, I'm not sure if there's ANY adjustability in your leg kit. However, it looks as if you shortened the &amp;quot;Z&amp;quot; brace (cut it yourself), you could move your legs inboard more. &lt;strong&gt;WHY?&lt;/strong&gt; Well, if you're not comfortable with the staggered aesthetics of the legs, this might conceal them a bit from an end view. With your wood strength, you can easily hang 18&amp;quot;+ over each leg end with no weight issues. This may even give you easier access to each end from a chair sitting position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're worried about the brace or knee bashing, I've included just a couple of links for some of the woodworking sights that make some alternate bench top leg options. In case you decide on returning the leg kit for something else. I am not advising on style in any way and I am not recommending any particular vendor. These are just what my search turned up for alt. kits that would work for your top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many sites such as Rockler, Woodworker Supply, Lee Valley, Grizzly, Woodcraft, Highland Hardware and many, many others offer products for supporting a big thick slab that long. Again nice job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.grizzly.com/products/South-Bend-Cast-Iron-Workbench-Legs/SB1354&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Grizzly&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.zoro.com/little-giant-workbench-steel-60-w-24-d-wst2-2460-ah/i/G6091416/#specifications&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Zoro&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9035" LastActivityDate="2020-09-24T11:54:29.967" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11025" CreationDate="2020-09-24T16:53:59.397" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan is to apply wood filler then sand it down... but maybe there's a better way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typical &amp;quot;plastic wood&amp;quot; type filler is good for filling nails holes and small dings, but not always great for filling large, flat areas the way, say, auto body filler is. To fill a broad, 2mm deep depression, you'd probably be better off with something that's very strong and stable with good adhesive qualities, like epoxy thickened with wood flour or other fibers, or auto body filler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, at the point where the warp is at it's worst, the side piece sits slightly proud. I could sand down the side piece. Sounds like that would be a more robust option, but perhaps less aesthetically pleasing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's not too late, I think you'd be better off removing the top of the case and replacing it with plywood that's flat. It'll never be as easy to fix your project as it is now, before you add the veneer. As jdv explained, the key to a good veneer job is a good substrate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2020-09-24T16:53:59.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11017" CreationDate="2020-09-24T17:04:21.107" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I fix those profiles to the boards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use magnets.&lt;/strong&gt; Use a router or drill with forstner bit to excavate space in the  shelves just above your brackets, and then epoxy rare earth magnets into that space. You can add as many as you need to attach the shelf firmly, but you'll still be able to remove the shelves if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2020-09-24T17:04:21.107" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11008" CreationDate="2020-09-25T00:43:58.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the flaky nature of the existing finish, there's a good chance you will indeed have to remove it so that sound/solid material is exposed that some new finish will adhere to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that is the case - In the past when I've done this kind of thing I found that &amp;quot;paint stripper&amp;quot; chemicals were overall an easier approach than sanding or scraping right off the bat. Strippers like that are generally formulated to break down, loosen, or somewhat dissolve many different types of finishes, not only paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The general method is to apply a coat of stripper with a brush, wait a bit (15-20 mins?) while it reacts &amp;amp; bubbles, and then basically scrape it all off with a putty knife into the trash. Some disposable towels and sometimes steel wool or a scratchy plastic kitchen sponge can be used too. But you don't want to use a lot of force, when the easy stuff is done coming off, apply another coat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd guess after 2-ish coats the finish would be gone. At that point you would want to wipe the surface clean (maybe just with water) after which you can sand &amp;amp; refinish essentially like it was new wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paint strippers are widely available and I would make sure to follow whatever directions they come with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="763" LastEditorUserId="763" LastEditDate="2022-02-18T20:43:36.807" LastActivityDate="2022-02-18T20:43:36.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11052" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-25T12:08:07.360" Score="0" ViewCount="70" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm painting a guitar using acrylic paints - Daler-Rowney system 3. I sanded off the old finish on the guitar, and have spray painted it white, before applying multiple coats of paint. I noticed, however, that the water from the paint has caused the grain to raise up, so I have applied a very watered down layer of filler and allowed it to dry fully, before sanding to level and smooth the body of the guitar, which was damaged by a previous owner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I learned later that this is not the correct way to do things and filling and sealing/priming should have happened first. However, a lot of paint has gone onto the surface, and I don't particularly wish to sand the entire guitar down again (I don't own a sander). Is it ok if I simply continue applying coats of paint? Should I add some form of sealing or priming layer at this point? Or is my only option if I want this paint to adhere properly to start completely from scratch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My intention is to paint the guitar with a design and then seal it with multiple coats glossy spray lacquer, buffing it to a shine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2577" LastActivityDate="2020-09-26T06:56:39.647" Title="Do I need to strip my wood?" Tags="|refinishing|painting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11052" CreationDate="2020-09-25T16:42:14.470" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just scuff up the surface with some sandpaper and clean it scrupulously before the next coats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2020-09-25T16:42:14.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11052" CreationDate="2020-09-25T17:43:36.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I learned later that this is not the correct way to do things and filling and sealing/priming should have happened first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on what you've read so far you might be surprised to find out that those two operations can actually be best done the opposite way around and not in the order you've listed them&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it ok if I simply continue applying coats of paint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no way to know for sure how this will turn out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People can make judgement calls about this kind of thing based on their experiences doing multi-finish finishing and refinishing on other projects — for example using wall paints (emulsion/vinyl) with some type of clear coat on top — but it still essentially amounts to guesswork. It's not to do with the limited information provided in the Q (e.g. the unknown primer and filler you've used) it's that without at least &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; form of testing&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; there's zero way to be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And further to my Comment above, arguably the main issue here is the use of the System 3 acrylics in the first place. Paints of this type don't dry hard, they're slightly rubbery when fully cured. And in addition, not a few of the colours have mediocre lightfastness because of the inexpensive pigments used for a lower-cost paint range like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Classic example of the variability of information available in written sources! This problem has always existed to some degree, but it's been compounded greatly by Internet-based reference sites and how-to guides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Using not just something like the paints, primer and filler you've used, but the exact same ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-09-26T06:56:39.647" LastActivityDate="2020-09-26T06:56:39.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11055" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-26T08:25:29.087" Score="0" ViewCount="336" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been looking all over for specific hardware that allows panels to be mounted with the rail hook mounted to a notch. This pdf shows the mounting technique&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://secure.img1-fg.wfcdn.com/docresources/36446/119/1192091.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://secure.img1-fg.wfcdn.com/docresources/36446/119/1192091.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm specifically looking for Metal Rail RM-0924 and the rail hook RM-0834. Anyone know of anything similar out there pls let me know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6OxuG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6OxuG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The intention here is to be able to mount plywood boards (e.g. 1x8') for shelving vertically to the wall with the possibility of sliding them along the track if needed. Don't want to use cross braces. A mitered cleat on the 1/2&amp;quot; ply by itself isn't strong enough and will tear under some load. The rail hook reinforces it enough to take on over 300LB. Also as you would see in the PDF the back of the shelf stays flush against the wall. Very clean and very convenient with a bit of metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9198" LastEditorUserId="9198" LastEditDate="2020-09-28T04:22:47.050" LastActivityDate="2021-06-27T14:03:10.410" Title="Track hardware for hanging plywood panels" Tags="|hardware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11056" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-26T08:56:38.647" Score="0" ViewCount="1321" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hTU0e.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hTU0e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hey guys, first time poster.&#xA;I'm trying to make this simple nightstand using hand tools.&#xA;I'm stuck on these angled planks. Is there any way I can cut these very long cuts without electric table saw? I have a few japanese saws I can do pretty precise cuts with, but I can't image cutting a precise, angled cut along the whole lenght of the wood here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9199" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2020-10-01T15:13:12.780" LastActivityDate="2020-10-02T16:20:18.327" Title="How to cut long angled cuts without a table saw?" Tags="|hand-tools|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11056" CreationDate="2020-09-26T11:18:12.293" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cuts like this are actually fairly straightforward to do by hand, using the right technique&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But even so, it would be rare indeed for any cut like this done in hand-tool woodworking to be used straight from the saw — the sawn end surface is nearly always going to be refined by planing, to both perfect the angle and get to accurate length&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. This is good news actually since it means you don't need to be a well-practised saw user to get a good result. In other words the saw cut can be a little ragged and uneven and it doesn't matter :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And you can in fact do the entire job &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; by planing, something a few older guides suggest doing when working with thinner material. The boards in the pictured item would be thin enough to do the job this way. Although it's obviously a lot more material to plane off it saves what might be felt to be a tricky long crosscut — but to be honest if you're careful to saw on the waste side of the line this is not actually a particularly difficult cut&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way arguably the key step to success here is the initial accurate marking out on the workpiece..... which is true of a great many things in woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The saw cut&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If you will be sawing the boards to rough length first, before planing, it's important to realise you make a cut like this &lt;em&gt;with the board held upright&lt;/em&gt;, ideally in a vice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a vice yet you may be able to figure out a clamping setup that will allow the board to be held securely. Or you could take the opportunity to quickly build a crude clamp-based version of what is now frequently (and inaccurately) called a Moxon vice. More options on this in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2628/front-and-leg-vise/2634#2634&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;. As you can see it covers a good number of options, including a clamp-based 'twin-screw' vice. Even quickly thrown together from a couple of lengths of 1x4 or scraps of plywood a vice like this is likely to still be much better than no vice at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Planing the bevel or bevels&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;There's a previous Q&amp;amp;A worth looking at, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/10127/angled-cuts-without-miter-saw-or-miter-box/10129#10129&quot;&gt;Angled cuts without miter saw or miter box?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; The two key aspects being accurate marking out initially, and then careful cutting &lt;em&gt;on the waste side of the line&lt;/em&gt; with the board upright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Even regular 90° crosscuts are generally done this way, and this is why a shooting board is virtually a must-have for anyone woodworking with hand tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Even the first-timer should expect to do it successfully as long as they don't rush and keep to the waste side of the marked line &lt;em&gt;on both sides of the board&lt;/em&gt;..... so stop frequently and check the opposite side of the board to the one you're facing as you saw. Remember, cutting wood is not a race so it's fine if it takes longer than you think 'it should'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-09-26T11:18:12.293" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11044" CreationDate="2020-09-26T17:22:13.297" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a little late to the party, but if you don't like the z, you could flip the assembly thusly and give yourself more knee room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bQQo5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bQQo5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;worst sketch ever!&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Edit) Credit to @Graphus for bringing up this point: the original diagonal might be too long in this new configuration. The most straightforward fix for this would be to use a hacksaw (or a reciprocating saw, if you’re lucky enough to have access) to cut one of the longer pipes a little shorter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastEditorUserId="503" LastEditDate="2020-09-27T14:03:16.547" LastActivityDate="2020-09-27T14:03:16.547" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11059" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11069" CreationDate="2020-09-26T18:47:27.320" Score="0" ViewCount="205" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started building a cedar strip canoe and things were going swimmingly with good progress. I built the hull, fibreglass/epoxied the outside and took the hull off of the mold. Then... life happened. I had to move four times, got flooded out of one house, became a parent, etc., etc. The project inadvertently stalled for four years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Picking it up again, I'm getting ready to glass the inside of the hull and install the gunwales and trim. But, I'm finding that the sides of the hull have curled slightly inwards making the boat narrower than its design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is a safe way to open it back up again without risk of cracking the hull? Should I steam it for a few hours and slowly bend it back so that the station molds again fit? Install temporary braces that can be slowly expanded? Other options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9200" LastActivityDate="2020-09-29T06:44:15.520" Title="How to restore the form of a cedar strip canoe after taking it off the mold?" Tags="|boat-building|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11061" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11070" CreationDate="2020-09-27T00:20:19.870" Score="1" ViewCount="2177" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to put shellac on the sides and bottom of a cutting board made from mesquite to protect it. Then on the top (the cutting surface) I was planning on using mineral oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a fair amount of searching but can't find any references to anybody else doing something like this. i.e. a seal on sides/bottom and a non-sealing oil on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What issues could I run into with this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4559" LastActivityDate="2020-09-29T17:21:35.980" Title="Finish cutting board with shellac on bottom and oil on top" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11059" CreationDate="2020-09-27T16:15:21.617" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fiberglas is not going to respond to steam. I think you will need to put braces from side to side to open the shell. I don't know why it should be done slowly. I had a 90 year Oldtown canoe with cedar planks and elm bows ; 90 years , mostly in the weather and I could not see any movement . Maybe something else cause your movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3966" LastActivityDate="2020-09-27T16:15:21.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11063" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-27T16:24:51.403" Score="3" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a wooden mailbox that will be on a pole at the front of my house. I live in Phoenix Arizona so the temperature ranges where this will be sitting, are from 20F (-7C) to 150F (65C). (Remember this is sitting in the sun and stats measure the highs in the shade which is why the high appears way over what you would expect.) I doesn't rain often and when it does it usually buckets down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would love to ask the question &amp;quot;What wood, finish and joints should I use?&amp;quot; but I realize how subjective that question is. So instead I'll try and ask it in a more objective way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were making a mailbox for these conditions what factors would you consider when selecting the wood, joints and finish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel that an elimination answer is also perfectly acceptable. For example, listing wood, finish and joint types that would not endure these extremes would be helpful for myself and hopefully others reading the answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4559" LastActivityDate="2020-09-27T16:24:51.403" Title="Outdoor wood project for hot dry climate" Tags="|wood-selection|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11064" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11065" CreationDate="2020-09-27T19:27:00.723" Score="1" ViewCount="395" Body="&lt;p&gt;My son found a Stanley #36 transitional plane in a local junk store and cleaned it up. The blade is now sharp and the metal parts rust free and repainted. He's looking to put it to use, not as a decoration on a collector's shelf, hence the non-original color choice (we've got others in red or blue that look nice too).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G1xSu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G1xSu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On our metal-bodied Stanleys, we coat the soles with a thin layer of 3-in-1 to preserve them between uses (and to provide some lubrication during use). What should he do with the wooden sole on the #36?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wax seems likely to build up and transfer to the workpiece, but the wooden base probably needs something to prevent it either absorbing moisture or drying out&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8754" LastEditorUserId="8754" LastEditDate="2020-09-27T22:18:42.730" LastActivityDate="2020-09-28T06:38:47.597" Title="How to preserve sole of transitional plane" Tags="|plane|tool-maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11064" CreationDate="2020-09-28T06:38:47.597" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wooden-bodied planes were very commonly oiled (sometimes heavily) with linseed oil and the same could be done with the body of a transitional plane. Many transitionals restored by present-day users are oiled, sometimes on all surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently transitional planes were sometimes originally sold with a film finish on them instead of oiling&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, and despite how unpopular this idea is today with some users a film finish is greatly superior in preventing any tendency towards warping, as well as in protecting the surface from getting grubby with handling and use. Shellac or varnish would have been what was used historically, and either is still a viable choice. Today we have lacquers now too and they'd work fine instead if preferred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if you use a film finish it should be confined to the upper surfaces, and not used inside the throat or on the sole.  Users would then have lubricated the sole as their training and preference dictated&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wax seems likely to build up and transfer to the workpiece&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No more than when used (as it is &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; commonly) on the sole of a metal plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it might seem paradoxical, the oil or wax that must inevitably transfer from the soles of planes doesn't seem to affect finishing or glueing. But perhaps we shouldn't be surprised as only a very thin smear of oil is commonly applied, or in the case of wax sometimes just a wiggly scribble down the centre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but the wooden base probably needs something to prevent it either absorbing moisture or drying out&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason to do something to the sole is as mentioned to lubricate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As commonly stored, the sole of a woodie or a transitional would not be subject to taking on or losing much water vapour because it would be resting on a solid surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Clear evidence for this in surviving planes in very good or untouched condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Oiled with linseed oil or 'sweet oil' (possibly whale oil), greased with tallow or something similar, or waxed using beeswax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-09-28T06:38:47.597" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11055" CreationDate="2020-09-28T13:22:38.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Sliding rail&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;rail hooks&amp;quot; are the search terms you are looking for. See places like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mcmaster.com/sliding-tracks/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;McMaster-Carr sliding tracks&lt;/a&gt;, at least as a start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this does not suffice, as it looks like your reference design is custom, you can consider modifying the common t-slot designs used in many commercial applications. We've all seen the &amp;quot;wall of slotted engineered veneer&amp;quot; at stores with matching installations that hook and slide on with keyed sliders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rail could be a robust plywood with one or more slots in it (so you could adjust for height, as well!) and the runners would key in similarly within insets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe not the turnkey solution you are looking for, but that may only be available in B2B markets. You may have to trade off making your own solution now for some perfect solution you hope to find in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Amazon and places like Lee Valley offer examples and (usually router) tooling to make your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To recap:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You might find the exact hardware with more internet sleuthing, though it appears you've exhausted most avenues, leaving you with the long tail of searching B2B manufacturers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;French cleats. Not perfect for your application, as the inset and top rail might get a bit large. But very cheap, and easily made in the home shop. Metal cleats purchased from any online shop could be very low-profile.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;T-Slot (or whatever letter is appropriate) design similar to a French cleat that would be a little more complicated to make, but could be made a little lower profile that traditional French cleats.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I know that some folks refer to the latter two both as &amp;quot;French cleats&amp;quot; But I'm making a distinction here. There is what I think is the traditional cleat, made from convenient lumber (or metal) as a pair of simple mating surfaces. The slotted design is more of a commercial system that usually requires a router with some special tooling, and specific keyed runners. But you may run into places that conflate the two. (I don't care who's definition is correct -- I'm making a distinction for the purpose of answering the question &amp;quot;how can I solve my problem in a similar manner as the described hardware&amp;quot;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also depends if you &lt;em&gt;require&lt;/em&gt; the unit to move smoothly, as if on bearings or wheeled tracks. If so, none of this advice will do, and you will need to shop for a solution, or engineer up a very interesting solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-09-30T12:38:29.830" LastActivityDate="2020-09-30T12:38:29.830" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11067" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11068" CreationDate="2020-09-28T15:34:08.607" Score="3" ViewCount="4248" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a drill press with variable speed adjustment. It is provided with a graph showing the maximum rotation speed for aluminium and steel based on drilling diameter. I can get the wood graph by guessing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remember that sometimes old belt-driven drill presses were left on the slowest speed (which brings the maximum torque), and that was it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously faster rotation corresponds to faster drilling. Assuming I'm not in a hurry, when should I aim at the fastest I can get, and when should I reduce it? what are the disadvantages of either choice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4774" LastActivityDate="2020-09-28T17:22:59.663" Title="When should I use high speed and when lower speed with a drill press?" Tags="|drilling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11067" CreationDate="2020-09-28T15:48:29.333" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Optimal drill speed involves maximizing how fast you can drill through a substance while getting a smooth hole and not damaging the drill bit by over heating. The correct speed will allow the drill bit to cut the material without getting too hot. Too slow will &amp;quot;chew&amp;quot; or tear the material. Too fast will cause excessive heat. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/love-spade-bits/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Spade bits are especially problematic&lt;/a&gt; if run too slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best rotational speed depends on the type of drill bit and the material being drilled through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a general rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The larger the drill bit diameter the slower the speed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The harder the material being drilled the slower the speed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a chart for a twist drill bit:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Td3Rx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Td3Rx.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: Hardwood ratings are for hardwood species with a Janka number below 1500. For hardwoods with a Janka number above 1500 use slower speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.renovation-headquarters.com/drill-speed-wood.html#:%7E:text=%20%20%20%20%20%20Table%203,%20%20350%20%202%20more%20rows%20&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Renovation Headquarters&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other tables for other drill bit types at the link above.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You can find a variety of tables with similar information at other sites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are drilling at a recommended speed and find that things aren't working well you may need to do some experimenting to arrive at the best speed for your situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speed charts assume that you have a sharp drill bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6222" LastEditorUserId="6222" LastEditDate="2020-09-28T17:22:59.663" LastActivityDate="2020-09-28T17:22:59.663" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11059" CreationDate="2020-09-29T06:44:15.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm finding that the sides of the hull have curled slightly inwards making the boat narrower than its design&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like your cedar strips dried out some over the years, and the wood shrank more on the inside than outside because the epoxy and fiberglass prevented movement on the outside. Heating the wood with steam will make it more amenable to bending back into place, and if you can put it back on the form or otherwise brace it so that it keeps its shape, that might work. But because of the heat involved, steaming can also dry wood out, so it might exacerbate the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the sides haven't curled too much (you did say &amp;quot;slightly&amp;quot;), it might be better to just accept it as it is. Canoes have varying degrees of inward curvature, or &amp;quot;tumblehome&amp;quot;, so you could just glass the inside, fit the gunwales, and declare victory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2020-09-29T06:44:15.520" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11061" CreationDate="2020-09-29T17:21:35.980" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What issues could I run into with this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mainly, you'll run into a not-very-durable finish on the sides and bottom, and possibly a weird transition between the oiled part and the finished part. Water and other liquids will likely seep under the shellac film where the sides meet the top. Water will no doubt contact the sides and bottom of the board and cause the shellac to cloud. Mechanical damage from knives and other kitchen implements will scratch or chip the shellac.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a fair amount of searching but can't find any references to anybody else doing something like this. i.e. a seal on sides/bottom and a non-sealing oil on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That should be a strong hint that it's not a plan worth pursuing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd guess you're thinking of shellac because it's food safe. But although shellac is safe to consume, it's not a good finish for standing up to the kind of abuse that cutting boards get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A much better plan would be to finish the whole board with food grade mineral oil, butcher block oil, etc. You'll need to re-apply it from time to time as the oil soaks in or is washed away, but it's not something you need to do often. Even with your hybrid oil/shellac proposal, you'd still need to periodically oil the top; using oil on the entire project won't increase that time much at all since the bottom and sides likely won't need more than a swipe or two with the same rag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2020-09-29T17:21:35.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11072" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-30T19:12:13.780" Score="2" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not a major problem, but I recently encountered an issue in which I was drilling a medium sized hole, about 1.5&amp;quot;, in a small piece of treated wood. The bit was a fairly new and fairly sharp spade bit. I clamped the wood, but the electric drill kept yanking itself out of my hands. When I was done, my hands were sore and the hole was so ragged as to be almost useless. I've searched various places for the answer, but I am not sure how to word my request so as to get the information I want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I guess the question is this: How do I secure an electric drill sufficiently to make a smooth hole? Is my only solution a drill press?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8392" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2020-09-30T23:42:05.820" LastActivityDate="2020-09-30T23:42:05.820" Title="Recommendations for securing a high torque drill with a larger bit" Tags="|safety|drilling|clamps|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11073" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-30T19:25:15.693" Score="0" ViewCount="696" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had my interior doors dipped a couple years ago and have been gradually staining them (using gel stain and gel varnish). They don't look perfect, but I think they're really pretty (see first two pics).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my bathroom, the original door was long gone, so I purchased a painted door from a salvage place that looked like my other doors and stripped it myself. I used the lye type of stripper on one side, and a gentler type on the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem: The door I stripped myself looks &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; lighter than my other doors. I'm pretty sure it's the same kind of wood (fir?). But maybe it was made from newer wood, or the stripping process resulted in a lighter color, or it came out differently because it had been painted, while the other doors were originally varnished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, when I put the stain on, it looks much lighter and more orange than my others doors (and blotchy, but I can probably work on that by resanding). It does not have the rich, deep stained look of the dipped doors. (See last two photos.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way I can get this door to look more like the other doors? I've been reading about tea staining and wondered if it would help make the door look a little darker before the gel stain, but I worry that it will turn the door too gray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have spent many weeks on this blasted door between buying, stripping, sanding, moving the hinges slightly, etc. and would welcome any advice to make it look better.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s2RzD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s2RzD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;dipped doors unstained and stained; stripped door, unstained side and with stain&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9219" LastActivityDate="2020-09-30T19:25:15.693" Title="Refinished old door looks awful, nothing like I expected! How to fix?" Tags="|wood|staining|sanding|refinishing|restoration|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11072" CreationDate="2020-09-30T20:39:16.367" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you're running your bit too slowly.  Spade bits are pretty sensitive to low speeds.  A faster speed (and less feed pressure) will result in less material being removed with each pass.  This, in turn leads to less force on the wood, resulting in less tearing of the fibers.  This tearing of the fibers, instead of cleanly cutting them, is what causes the ragged hole, and the ragged hole is what causes the catching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your spade bit has a &amp;quot;snail&amp;quot; (a lead screw that pulls the bit into the wood) you won't be able to slow your feed.  I don't recommend this type of bit for woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is that you're not maintaining a consistent angle while drilling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2020-09-30T20:39:16.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8449" CreationDate="2020-10-01T17:53:25.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a No. 1 Washita.&#xA;The original color will be coral/light yellow and butterscotch mottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could just use as is. Use a citrus solvent as a honing fluid.&#xA;It will cut the oil that is in it and hopefully more and more will come out&#xA;in use. Simple Green or Bio-Green Clean also work well, they emulsify the oil&#xA;and give a nice honing juice. That stone will be a great cutter and can leave a&#xA;nice matte finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9227" LastActivityDate="2020-10-01T17:53:25.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11056" CreationDate="2020-10-02T16:20:18.327" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mitered cuts this wide are not necessarily sawn in hand-tools only methods of work. They're almost definitely shot on one of the shooting board types though. The idea is to remove bulk of the waste with a tool that can move lots of material quickly, so for example you could knock it off with a chisel leaving somewhere around 1/8&amp;quot; - 1/16&amp;quot; of waste and then planning to  a line with a fine set plane, with or without some sort of a fence guide. A combination of rip relieve cuts and cross cuts works too. I guess the tricky bit would be making a long and accurate guide without power tools. If that's the case, careful freehand planing with frequent bevel gauge checks could do the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it doesn't have to be 100% spot on across the whole length, only in the places where it shows. These joints are end grain mostly and should probably be reinforced, I personally wouldn't worry if the angle is not precise as long as the visible joint lines are tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9049" LastActivityDate="2020-10-02T16:20:18.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7370" CreationDate="2020-10-02T16:38:44.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Panel and frame doors appeared to address wood movement problems specifically, as well as planked doors. I don't think there's going to be a problem if you'd glue 1/8&amp;quot; thick veneer to mdf\plywood substrate, since it's an interior door and there's enough of holding power in modern glues to withstand movements of thick veneers (if   there are any). 1/8&amp;quot; is sufficient for sanding\planing\scraping but not thick enough to cause shrinkage cracks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9049" LastActivityDate="2020-10-02T16:38:44.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11079" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13791" CreationDate="2020-10-02T23:10:35.263" Score="4" ViewCount="1028" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not quite a duplicate of &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/7383/what-are-the-best-substitutes-when-nothing-labelled-as-denatured-alcohol-can-b&quot;&gt;What are the best substitutes when nothing labelled as &amp;quot;Denatured alcohol&amp;quot; can be found in your area?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my sins, I live in California. California has completely banned Denatured Alcohol, and you can't have it shipped here (so no Amazon or Rockler etc). Nor can you buy Everclear at more than 60%. Isopropyl Alcohol hasn't been seen in the stores since March 2020.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to either dissolve shellac flakes, or thin Zinsser premade shellac. Every website I visit just naturally assumes meths/denatured alcohol is available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I use as a solvent in this state? And where can I get it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8754" LastActivityDate="2022-05-02T16:01:34.733" Title="Solvent for Shellac in California" Tags="|shellac|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11080" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11081" CreationDate="2020-10-05T03:06:32.033" Score="6" ViewCount="305" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a wooden Ikea bench. At the base of the back of the bench are two holes for pins that, with a screw higher up, hold the back of the bench to the arms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As seen in the images, the base of these have both split. My plan is to glue this back together and clamp it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting the glue deep into the existing cracks might be difficult. I've heard of glue injectors that are presumably designed for this problem. Instead of that I was thinking of trying to widen the crack with a lever to get glue in there without an injector. My fear is that I might split it further. If I did break it further would that even be an issue if I was to glue it back together?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second question: The pin holes are going to get full of glue when I go this. I'm okay making the pins permanent features here so was going to insert them during the gluing process. The alternative would be to drill the glue out of the holes afterwards. Any other thoughts on how to preserver holes when gluing something like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JNN4i.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JNN4i.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ibfBx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ibfBx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4559" LastActivityDate="2020-10-08T10:41:28.127" Title="Should I further &quot;break&quot; split wood before gluing?" Tags="|glue|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11080" CreationDate="2020-10-05T07:09:49.600" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting the glue deep into the existing cracks might be difficult. I've heard of glue injectors that are presumably designed for this problem. Instead of that I was thinking of trying to widen the crack with a lever to get glue in there without an injector&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While glue injectors (or often the cheaper alternatives, hypodermics or meat injectors) do work well they're hardly necessary to get glue into a simple crack of the sort seen in the first photo, even when they're much deeper than this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get glue into a crack by any means that gets glue into the crack, including letting gravity do some of the work for you, teasing it in using many different types of long tool&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, carrying it in using thread and a very useful method to achieve deep penetration, blowing it in — in a well-equipped workshop compressed air will often be used for this but you can do quite a decent job with a straw, and an even better job using the hollow tube scavenged from a disposable ballpoint (yes I do have a couple of these in my toolkit!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes, it's perfectly fine to lever the crack open a bit to help get the glue where you want. This is virtually standard practice from what I've seen, and except for very tiny surface cracks I'll nearly always do this myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I did break it further would that even be an issue if I was to glue it back together?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. And in fact during repairs cracks are often extended, to fully separate a cracked board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main reason is not to make glue application easier, but to clean the surfaces. As mentioned in some previous Answers (&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4151/what-do-i-need-to-do-to-prepare-wood-for-gluing/4159#4159&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt;) only clean/dust-free, &lt;em&gt;freshly exposed&lt;/em&gt;, wood actually glues together at maximum strength. Old cracks&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, even if they are not visibly dirty or dusty, won't glue together as strongly as they could but sometimes you have no choice except to get glue into the crack, clamp the crack closed and hope for the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the spider web (?) at the end of the second crack seems to show this could do with some careful cleaning I would not further separate it because it's an interrupted split, rather than a classic v-shaped simple crack that follows a grain line. You're going to have to do what you can here to clean the open end and then get glue into every portion of the cracking. Injecting the glue in would certainly help with portions of this crack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second question: The pin holes are going to get full of glue when I go this. I'm okay making the pins permanent features here so was going to insert them during the gluing process. The alternative would be to drill the glue out of the holes afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glueing the dowels in is actually one way of making the bench more sturdy, so it's well worth doing anyway — many experienced assemblers of Ikea and similar furniture will glue some or all of the dowels even when the instructions don't specify, to add to the strength of the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other thoughts on how to preserver holes when gluing something like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the dowels were intended not to be glued in waxing them thoroughly and inserting them during the glue-up will work well, and is actually preferable to drilling the holes out afterwards&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;. Wax is a universal glue resister and very useful where you don't want glue to penetrate a surface, or accidentally bond two things together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A note on clamping&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;As mentioned in the link included above, don't be shy about clamping the piece back together very tightly. &lt;em&gt;You can't overclamp as far as the glue joint is concerned.&lt;/em&gt; It doesn't matter how much glue squeezes out because you can't starve the joint, if you applied enough glue to begin with such that it fully wetted both surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Sewing needles, an awl or icepick, screwdriver tip, coffee stirrer, bamboo skewer, toothpick, the list goes on and on :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; You don't have to be super fussy about this, but 'old' here should be understood to be anything older than a few hours. Not days, hours. In a perfect world cracks would be glued within minutes of them happening, where strength is important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Because doing this will likely wallow out the holes. Even taking a thou or two off the inside of the dowel holes, making them a &lt;em&gt;slightly&lt;/em&gt; looser fit, is enough to compromise strength somewhat. Unglued dowels should never be a loose fit in their holes, they should be an 'interference fit' or tighter, requiring somewhere between significant finger pressure and light taps from a hammer or mallet to get them fully seated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-10-08T10:41:28.127" LastActivityDate="2020-10-08T10:41:28.127" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11083" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-05T18:36:50.377" Score="0" ViewCount="275" Body="&lt;p&gt;I finished a table using miniwax and tung oil.  After three layers of tung oil, I lightly sanded and then used a tack cloth to remove the dust.  The top is now sticky.  How do I remove the stickiness without harming the finish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9239" LastActivityDate="2020-10-05T18:36:50.377" Title="Tack cloth stickiness" Tags="|furniture|refinishing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8449" CreationDate="2020-10-05T19:20:20.533" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried cleaning the top of the stone several times with Dawn dish liquid, but after a few hours more oil oozes to the surface&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One slow but simple option is to pack it in sawdust for a while. The sawdust should absorb any surface oil and draw out more. Check it periodically and change the sawdust as needed. Parking it in a warm place might help speed up the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2020-10-05T19:20:20.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11085" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11087" CreationDate="2020-10-05T21:52:34.853" Score="1" ViewCount="3134" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm finishing up plans to build a rather large, and relatively rough (i.e. this project is more carpentry than woodworking), workbench out of standard 2x4 SYP lumber and MDF for the benchtop and shelves. This will mainly be used for electronics work, but as I don't have a proper general purpose workbench, I'm sure it will see the occasional drilling and cutting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to figure out how to join the posts and horizontal beams - all will be standard 2x4s. I'm considering using a joint I've used on shelves before, essentially half-lapping the beams and posts, and then also (is this still called a half-lap?) half-lapping the ends of the perpendicular beams over/under each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the joint in question in the foreground here, but the same will be repeated at all other corners and lower framing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lkX8m.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lkX8m.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The workbench will be significantly larger than the doorway to the room. I'm not sure how long it will stay in this room, and I rent, so I want to make sure it can come back out with a minimum of fuss. So, I want to fasten with screws/bolts, no or minimal glue, so that it will disassemble enough to get it out of the room (ideally in a re-assembleable state, not as cut-up scrap). So, construction-grade SYP fastened with screws or bolts, MDF desktop, probably leaving the wood bare (what's the point of a finish if the desktop and shelves are just going to be MDF?). So... nothing beautiful. Intended to be functional, not overly expensive, and not overly complicated or time-consuming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are your thoughts on this type of joint? I've used it with quite a bit of success on utility shelves in the past, but I'm wondering if there's something else I should be thinking about that isn't much more complicated or time-consuming, and fits with the look of something that's... more construction-grade carpentry than woodworking... but will offer some advantages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS - In terms of &amp;quot;easy&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;quick&amp;quot;, etc... I only have handheld power tools plus a compound miter saw and a workable collection of hand saws and chisels. I'm likely going to buy or borrow a router, because I'm not cutting this many joints by hand again. In general, I'm looking for something that can reasonably be done by a novice with a router/miter saw/circular saw, and maximizing &amp;quot;strength per minute of work&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9238" LastActivityDate="2020-10-09T09:10:09.470" Title="Simple Joint for 2x4 frame to 2x4 post?" Tags="|lumber|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8449" CreationDate="2020-10-06T13:35:03.850" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;These washitas don't absorb oil deeply like synthetic stones. Just using the stone with a light oil should be fine unless the surface is oxidized (gummy). Any number of things to clean the surface would be fine (cleaners, solvents, soaks), but I'd go easy on the stone unless there's a performance reason to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're dreaming of a bright white stone, that's fine, but it won't stay that way for long once you're using it again. Washita stones wear a little faster than hard arkansas stones, so a combination of flattening and cleaning at the same time (with a diamond hone or silicon carbide grit on a flat surface) is a reasonable thing to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9242" LastActivityDate="2020-10-06T13:35:03.850" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11085" CreationDate="2020-10-07T08:44:30.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are your thoughts on this type of joint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's needlessly complicated and fussy, for the job it has to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are numerous other ways of doing this (understatement!) many of them much simpler and more straightforward than the joint pictured, while still allowing easy breakdown of the material back to individual boards for transport, or to reuse the wood for something else. Many plans for woodworking benches rely on mortise-and-tenon joints (usually stub tenons) along with bolts and captive nuts&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; to pull the thing together tightly, but M&amp;amp;T joints require a lot more work and skill to do to a reasonable standard. And although you can substitute dowels for them there are even simpler options than this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How about a bench where NO joinery is required?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You can just use metal hanging hardware (sold under various names), screw the whole thing together without a drop of glue and you'll be golden here. You can even build full-on woodworking benches this way and still achieve the necessary rock-solid result, if you choose a decent metal fixing and use enough fasteners, i.e. more than the minimum number of screws required. An excellent example of this type of bench is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kz0hCakh800&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The &amp;quot;No Skill&amp;quot; DIY Workbench&lt;/a&gt; from the channel wortheffort on YouTube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet another no-joinery option if you don't mind enclosing the ends is to build using plywood (or particleboard/chipboard, or MDF) to tie end leg assemblies together&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. Cost may end up slightly higher for this, but it depends on the pricing of these products where you are, plus the thickness you choose of course. Workbench 'legs' like this require virtually zero skill to make since, as with the previous method, the attached board takes up the slack from any slightly miss-cut pieces. And even though there's more cutting it's still very quick to put together&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Square nuts if you go back far enough, then hex nuts and more recently barrel nuts as an option. See also bed-frame fixings for similar functionality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Making what in effect are &lt;em&gt;torsion/tortion boxes&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; An entire workbench could probably be built from the unprocessed stock in a short afternoon.... let's call it about 3 hours if power saws are available to break down the sheet goods, although this is very doable with just a single hardpoint panel saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-10-09T09:10:09.470" LastActivityDate="2020-10-09T09:10:09.470" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11088" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-07T23:18:20.767" Score="5" ViewCount="232" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought an old Delta wood lathe that has a variable speed feature. The variable speed works by varying the spacing between two sheaves that changes the net diameter of the pulley and thus the speed ratio from the motor. Typically two sheave type pulleys are used in conjunction so that the effective diameter of one increases while the other one will decrease keeping the net belt length constant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is whether this type of drive can be used with the link type V-Belts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These link type belts do run much smoother on fixed size pulleys I have on my jointer. Here is a picture comparison of a conventional V-belt and a Link type belt. They are also length adjustable in increments of approximately 3/4 inch (20 mm) by adding or removing links.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4soqc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4soqc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2020-10-08T03:10:02.740" LastActivityDate="2020-10-28T04:30:39.550" Title="Do link type V-Belts work in variable speed mechanism?" Tags="|lathe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11085" CreationDate="2020-10-08T18:07:58.207" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lazy man here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4x4 legs. 2x4 under the top, carriage bolted to the legs (4 sides). Diagonal stretchers (~1x4) on the two short sides and the back of the long side to prevent racking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2020-10-08T18:07:58.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11090" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11093" CreationDate="2020-10-09T01:54:52.087" Score="0" ViewCount="232" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to make a &amp;quot;side access&amp;quot; pull-out 'drawer' to replace very high cabinet shelves (two shelves so high they are currently nigh-unusable). It's full depth (22.5&amp;quot;), only 15&amp;quot; wide, and the drawer is going to fill a 14&amp;quot; height gap to hold tall things like upright cereal boxes, spaghetti holders, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've measured that I can just comfortably reach into the bottom of the 'drawer' when it's pulled out to nab said boxes. It has a high side that will be against the open cabinet door to prevent the tall things from falling out that side, and a high &amp;quot;back&amp;quot; to prevent things from tipping off when it is pulled out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking pocket screws are the way to go. I'm a competent beginner but only have a rudimentary set of tools/budget. It's a variant of a simple drawer box, but most drawer boxes I see have the front/back joined to the sides (which the drawer slides are attached to). However for my design it would work better (and prettier) for the box construction to go the other way around - the pocket holes in the sides. Will that interfere with the drawer slides somehow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the current idea - the curved part on the left in this picture is actually the front that will have a handle to pull on.  The low side is just tall enough to accommodate a full extension slide, I just wasn't sure if the pocket screws (on the inside) would somehow weaken that side?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/13TS8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/13TS8.png&quot; alt=&quot;SketchUp snapshot&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9248" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-10-09T09:16:51.907" LastActivityDate="2020-10-09T16:42:01.533" Title="Is it okay to use pocket screws to join sides to front/back rather than the opposite?" Tags="|joinery|drawer-construction|drawer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11091" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-09T11:17:06.390" Score="2" ViewCount="565" Body="&lt;p&gt;Problem: I recently bought a used Metabo Bs 0633 bandsaw but cannot find any marketed t-track attachment for the t-tracks running parallel to the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question: What is the name or sizing category for a t-track slider for this bandsaw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Context: I am looking for sliders or bolts or something like that to slide in the track for attachment of jigs and things like this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WQ6eU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WQ6eU.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photo of the bandsaw:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hzzvh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hzzvh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photo of bandsaw table showing the rip fence that slide in the miter slot perpendicular to the blade:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r4NRV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r4NRV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photo of the bandsaw boiler plate:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NwFAG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NwFAG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photo of the t-track lower part: ~19 mm (~3/4&amp;quot;)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1bB9w.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1bB9w.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photo of the t-track upper part: ~12 mm (~1/2&amp;quot;)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YvVHR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YvVHR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photo of the t-track cross section: ~7 mm total depth (~1/4&amp;quot;)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/31xQr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/31xQr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9252" LastActivityDate="2020-10-11T20:31:12.517" Title="What size is the T-track for Metabo Bs 0633 bandsaw table?" Tags="|power-tools|tool-identification|band-saw|fence|miter-slot|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11092" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-09T13:34:58.340" Score="1" ViewCount="359" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been reading about CBN &amp;quot;diamond&amp;quot;  wheels (*) recently which apparently are great for sharpening woodworking tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In comparison to traditional grinding wheels which apparently are fragile enough to explode while rotating, CBN wheels don't have that risk. So one function of the guard, to contain the shrapnel of an exploding wheel, is no longer needed. Great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I can see in many CBN examples (like below) that the guard gets removed. &lt;strong&gt;Is there a particular advantage to this?&lt;/strong&gt; Would you ever need to use the top, bottom, back surfaces of the wheel for something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another source which mentions leaving the guard off, but doesn't go into detail IIRC (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IOXXiPK1L4s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt;); the video makes it seem like a choice to leave it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is not a genuine need I wonder if its better to just leave the guard in place so there is less possibility of something getting caught in the rotating machinery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qWEdR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qWEdR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/sharpening/wheels-and-wheel-dressers/110933-8-inch-cbn-grinding-wheels?item=77J8147&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(*) not truly diamond, but some pretty hard material called &amp;quot;cubic boron nitride&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="763" LastEditorUserId="763" LastEditDate="2020-10-09T14:14:48.117" LastActivityDate="2020-10-09T18:56:29.520" Title="Is there an advantage to removing the guard on a grinder with a CBN wheel?" Tags="|safety|sharpening|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11090" CreationDate="2020-10-09T16:42:01.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see the ovals on the bottom - I presume these represent the holes from the pocket screw jig to allow it to attach to the back. I presume that there will be similar holes in the bottom going into the short side closest to us, and the tall side further away?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So long as the pocket-screw locations don't interfere with the drawer slide mounting screw locations, you shouldn't have any issues. I'd suggest that you'll want to leave at least 1&amp;quot; of solid wood between screw locations as the default spacing for the jig I've got has the holes about that far apart (from memory).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2020-10-09T16:42:01.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11092" CreationDate="2020-10-09T18:56:29.520" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normal grinding wheels are made from abrasive grit bonded together in a vitrified medium, so they're like a ceramic. This makes them hard and durable, but very brittle, and even the smallest defect can lead to catastrophic breakage which of course takes place at high rotational speeds, throwing the pieces off at very high velocities&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. One of the functions of guards on grinders is to mitigate the risk from these pieces&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CBN wheels on the other hand are machined down from a billet of aluminium&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; and therefore aren't subject to the same risk. They basically can't break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And in addition, as widely described by users, many are too wide to allow the guard to be fully assembled around them — the end caps have to be left off — and in some cases too wide as well — so the whole thing must be left off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a particular advantage to this? Would you ever need to use the top, bottom, back surfaces of the wheel for something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, depending on who is using the grinder. In the usual way woodworking tools of all kinds are ground there's no need to access anything but the ~90° portion of a wheel that is normally exposed when a guard is fitted. But some grinders are set up by their users to grind the tool at the top on a high rest/support with the tool being pushed in horizontally&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt;, instead of using the typical grinder rest that's approximately on the midline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And outside of a woodworking context, knife grinding for example will often be done towards the top of a wheel because it's convenient to run the length of the knife edge across the surface in that position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is not a genuine need I wonder if its better to just leave the guard in place so there is less possibility of something getting caught in the rotating machinery&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can fit your guard back into place after installing a CBN wheel then by all means do so. With many woodworking practices everyone has to make their own determinations on what's safe and what's not, and levels of acceptable risk vary enormously, from the &amp;quot;I don't need no steenkin' blade guard on my table saw!&amp;quot; through to not using a table saw at all because the user considers them to be too dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; This is why standard shop practice, no longer taught universally as it should, is to &lt;strong&gt;always&lt;/strong&gt; stand off to one side when starting up a grinder, so you're not in line with the potential ejection plane if the wheel breaks as the motor gets up to full speed. Since we're on the subject, in addition a grinder wheel must &lt;strong&gt;always&lt;/strong&gt; be 'ring tested' before fitting, absolutely without exception if old or secondhand, but &lt;em&gt;even if it was one previously fitted&lt;/em&gt;. And, &lt;em&gt;even if brand new&lt;/em&gt; because on occasion new wheels straight from the packaging can fail this test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Albeit only slightly (or perhaps not at all) on many modern grinders since their guards are made of very lightweight sheet metal — both thinner than in the past and not always steel..... and even in some cases plastic. But to be fair, even the older guards made from sheet steel could be torn apart by the pieces of an exploding wheel according to firsthand accounts and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.osha.gov/pls/imis/accidentsearch.accident_detail?id=202089553&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;accident reports&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Why they are justly famous for running so smoothly, they're perfectly balanced (unlike many standard grinder wheels, which are partly or wholly responsible for grinder vibration).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt; CBN wheels are particularly well suited to this approach since they don't wear down, so they don't change diameter unlike normal wheels which slowly get smaller as they are used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-10-09T18:56:29.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11096" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11098" CreationDate="2020-10-10T10:16:25.440" Score="2" ViewCount="1517" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built a thick worktable out of MDF and I'm looking to treat the surface. It's inside permanently but it should survive the occasional Oil/Water spill. Aesthetics don't matter. Can I just leave it raw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8r59u.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8r59u.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3934" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-10-10T19:55:07.453" LastActivityDate="2020-10-13T23:34:24.937" Title="Finish for MDF Worktable" Tags="|finish-selection|paint|mdf|water-protection|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11097" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-10T14:31:57.673" Score="1" ViewCount="582" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a teak console that was damaged by friend who had it stored in their house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This damage was caused by water rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vY6nz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vY6nz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this was caused by melted wax from a candle!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OEYtI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OEYtI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've scraped the wax off with a razor as best I could. I guess the next step is paper towels and an iron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought that a light buffing with 000 steel wool followed by teak oil would be a good idea. But then I started second guessing myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: The piece is about 35 years old and I've been the only owner. It was oiled annually for the first half dozen years and has not been touched since. It is stored indoors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9257" LastActivityDate="2020-10-10T14:31:57.673" Title="Repairing damaged indoor teak furniture" Tags="|staining|refinishing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11096" CreationDate="2020-10-10T19:02:09.300" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a piece of Masonite hardboard of the same size and tack it in place (shiny side up). This will give you a smooth surface which, while not permanent, is much more durable than the MDF. It will greatly increase the lifetime of the edges and corners, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the Masonite gets too dinged up, just replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="463" LastEditorUserId="463" LastEditDate="2020-10-13T23:34:24.937" LastActivityDate="2020-10-13T23:34:24.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11096" CreationDate="2020-10-10T19:49:33.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it was me, I'd either prime with a shellac-based primer or varnish with an oil-based product. Wet mdf will blister in an ugly way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2020-10-10T19:49:33.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11096" CreationDate="2020-10-10T20:42:36.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's inside permanently but it should survive the occasional Oil/Water spill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the suggestion from @WhatRoughBeast in his Answer is a good one for the top (I've gone with sacrificial hardboard surfaces on both of the MDF workbenches I've made), we can see that more of your bench is made from MDF so other surfaces need to be considered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I just leave it raw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leaving it bare is an option, especially if this is built from a moisture-resistant MDF&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, but if not I think it would be a mistake not to coat it with something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil spills are basically not an issue with any MDF, but with the standard type every 'end grain' surface is particularly vulnerable to swelling if wet with water. The swelling can be bad, and while not exactly catastrophic except in the worst cases it's very unsightly and potentially could make the bench unstable. And if it happens on the edges of the top obviously that will no longer be flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if this is a basic MDF, as it appears to be from the photo, this will most definitely last you longer in better condition if coated in something waterproof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Suitable finish choices&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;These include lacquer, varnish and paint&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. Despite not being truly waterproof a penetrating finish such as &amp;quot;Danish oil&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;Scandinavian oil&amp;quot; or the quite similar &amp;quot;teak oil&amp;quot; will do a reasonable job too (especially the last one, which tends to be heaviest in the varnish/resin component).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hardboard type&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If you do go with hardboard for the top, S2S material is available — this stands for &lt;em&gt;smooth 2 sides&lt;/em&gt;, so once one surface is too dirty or chewed up to use you have a second surface ready to go as soon as you flip the sheet over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of whether you get double-sided or single-sided hardboard I would recommend getting a tempered type if you can find it, as they're more moisture-resistant and more durable (often significantly) compared to the untempered variety. If not identified as tempered this type of hardboard can be identified by its much smoother, possibly slightly glossy, surface. It's generally noticeably darker in colour too. You may still want to increase the resistance to water by applying some finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Generically referred to as MR-MDF where I am, although various proprietary makes are this type too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;/sup&gt; While some waterbased paints are waterproof most are at least slightly permeable to water (deliberately, it's not a flaw) so a traditional oil-based enamel paint would be the easier option here since they're all quite waterproof. This type of paint may be sold as &amp;quot;alkyd enamel&amp;quot; or similar, or mention alkyd on the label somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-10-10T20:42:36.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11096" CreationDate="2020-10-10T21:10:38.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wipe a thin coat of boiled linseed oil on a piece of MDF scrap and see if you like the result once it's dried. It should darken a bit and leave a pretty slick surface. BLO will provide some protection, and it's easy to reapply to hide wear and tear. (I'd still use a hardboard top as suggested in another answer -- it's nice to be able to just replace the top with a fresh surface as needed.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any finish you add will provide more protection than leaving the table unfinished. You really just need to look at your options and figure out which makes sense for you. BLO is cheap, easy to apply, and provides some protection against spills, glue drips, etc. But there are lots of other options too: paint, varnish, polyurethane, tung oil, and shellac could all make sense, especially if you add a replaceable top (which is the part that's going to take 99% of the abuse).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2020-10-11T18:05:17.857" LastActivityDate="2020-10-11T18:05:17.857" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11102" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-11T07:17:22.833" Score="0" ViewCount="114" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a decorative post from a piece of furniture which has become warped -- the top has moved by something like 2 inches, at the top of a ~3foot long tapered and carved post segment. It is finished with lacquer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way that I can un-warp this, and if so, how would I do so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9259" LastActivityDate="2020-10-11T07:17:22.833" Title="Can I un-warp a warped bed post?" Tags="|wood-repair|restoration|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11103" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-11T12:31:16.743" Score="0" ViewCount="787" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have several different types of clamps all of which I've noticed over time get a little harder to operate, the motion isn't as smooth or easy as I'd like. I'm thinking of F-clamps, &amp;quot;quick&amp;quot; clamps, pipe clamps, etc. Its the metal components which seem to have the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel like they should be lubricated but I'm concerned about contaminating my wood workpieces with whatever oil or other substance would go on the clamps. Even something like wax which wouldn't be liquid and drippy could still get transferred by mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions for a suitable lubricant or an alternative that might keep the clamps operating smoothly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="763" LastActivityDate="2020-10-11T16:01:10.100" Title="What's a suitable lubricant for woodworking clamps?" Tags="|tool-maintenance|clamps|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11103" CreationDate="2020-10-11T16:01:10.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wax is actually widely considered &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; lubricant for this application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it's an understandable concern, the small amount that may transfer to wood from incidental contact is a non-issue. Bear in mind the fact that planes, including smoothing planes which may be the last tool to touch a workpiece, often have their soles waxed. Some users even lubricate the soles of their planes with a liquid oil such as 3-in-One or a grease like tallow and with these too there doesn't appear to be any problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a good video on YouTube about clamp maintenance on Kings Fine Woodworking channel, showing how a good clean and waxing&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; can transform the function of bar-type clamps; the title says it all, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zrLz3la4rpo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;83 - How to Clean Dried Glue from Parallel Clamps and make them slide Better Than New&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to mention that they also use a silicone lubricant to spray the internals on the moving clamp head, something I'm not sold on. Many woodworkers avoid &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; silicone lubricants in the workshop because of the persistent nature of silicone contamination&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. Expect decent improvement on any sticky/grabby bar-type clamp if a normal oil or grease are used instead, if you too would prefer not to use a silicone lubricant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spoiler safety note:&lt;/strong&gt; the testing in the video shows that acetone and MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) are both suitable solvents to help in cleaning off hardened yellow PVA glue residue. Acetone is significantly less toxic than MEK and is generally much cheaper too, making the choice between them easy IMO&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; (they make the same recommendation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Silicone is infamous for how it interferes with finish application (on new pieces and in refinishing) and in how difficult it is to get rid of every trace completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; This isn't to say don't buy MEK at all (where it's still legal to buy retail....... sorry Californians, people in other places with a Nanny State), there are other applications where it is the ideal solvent choice. But take suitable safety precautions to protect yourself when using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-10-11T16:01:10.100" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11091" CreationDate="2020-10-11T20:31:12.517" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not a type of T-track, but a solution I have found is to file off the top and square the edges of the top of a &lt;strong&gt;M8 carriage bolt&lt;/strong&gt;. It fits well enough for clamping operations. It has more slop than you may need for proper sliding work. I may not have needed to file the edges down at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filed M8:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ig1DM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ig1DM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;M8 Filed top and edges&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bolt fit into T Track:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ab15G.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ab15G.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bolt in T Track&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shown used as a clamp in an adjustable resaw fence:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z3ok5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z3ok5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Clamping a fence&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9252" LastActivityDate="2020-10-11T20:31:12.517" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11106" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11108" CreationDate="2020-10-13T08:51:42.353" Score="0" ViewCount="392" Body="&lt;p&gt;TLDR: how to make a hole with a small &lt;s&gt;tooth guide&lt;/s&gt; key, i.e. with a section like the inside of a 'power on' symbol&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long read. I am trying to replicate a molded plastic hinge in wood. It is a hinge with a twist, in that it is intended to drive/rotate the &lt;s&gt;slotted&lt;/s&gt; keyseated shaft that slots into a 1x1mm key on the inside of the 9mm hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Longer read. It may sound ridiculous and definitely like a waste of time, but I am sorry to throw out a toilet seat by Ikea which has lived longer than any in the house. It is detachable and the hinges are in plastic and do not suffer corrosion. It is an over-engineered design that, AFAIK, is out of production. I have not found anything similar as a replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iiqQT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iiqQT.png&quot; alt=&quot;broken plastic hinge, experimental wooden replacement&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a working solution, certainly not elegant. It was made by drilling an 8mm hole, digging out two channels around the key using a Dremel and long carving bit, with some help from a penknife and a small round file, and widening the sides of the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought about making a 9mm hole and digging out a 2x1mm keyseat to fill with a 3x1mm key, but making the key and keyseat is just as much of a challenge. I also thought of using 1mm grub screws for the key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and of course, just drilling a 9mm hole. Too easy of course :-).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are your suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9263" LastEditorUserId="9263" LastEditDate="2020-10-14T16:11:36.280" LastActivityDate="2020-10-14T16:11:36.280" Title="How can I make a hole with a keyway in wood?" Tags="|drilling|carving|holes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8316" CreationDate="2020-10-13T15:16:45.877" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Was an I A teacher for 30 years. We  used them all the time in shop class for ripping rough cut lumber. was the best thing going. I'm looking for one now to rip rough oak for  lobster trap runners. Can't find one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9266" LastActivityDate="2020-10-13T15:16:45.877" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11106" CreationDate="2020-10-13T15:35:51.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While &lt;em&gt;I&lt;/em&gt; would just chuck the thing and buy a new toilet seat, you seem to be attached to it so...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest a non-woodworking solution: Find a maker space type of location near you and see if someone will help you recreate the part on a 3D printer. Offering some cash for their time and material may go a long way toward motivating a helper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a woodworking solution, I'd suggest:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill your 9mm main hole.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill a second hole ~2-3mm from the outside edge of the main hole as a starter point for the key.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enlarge this hole to a dovetail shape, wide end away from the hole, narrow end opening into the main hole.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This could be accomplished with a small Dremel™ type tool, knives and chisels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The dovetail needs to be large enough to have some strength, yet small enough that it will fit into the space available. Maybe someone with more dovetail joinery experience than I could recommend a dimension or two, but my understanding is that the fit is more critical than the absolute size.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut a dovetail in a piece of wood to fit into the dovetail slot you carved above, and with a key to fit into your hinge pin.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The grain on the dovetail should run from the end of the key to the wide end of the dovetail. i.e. 90° to the direction of the grain in your picture of the key.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The way the grain runs in your example, it's likely to snap the tiny key piece off along the grain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;By running the grain 90° to that, you've got long grain along the direction that's taking the stress every time the seat is raised and lowered (and potentially dropped).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assemble with standard wood glue&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Profit!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To attach either a wood or plastic replacement hinge, I'd think you'd want to drill out a mortise into the portion of the hinge remaining with the seat, then fashion a tenon on the replacement part. You would want this to be a pretty snug fit, but I'd hand cut some channels along the length of the tenon then use epoxy to glue the hinge in place. The keyways will ensure that the tenon can bottom out in the mortise (allowing excess epoxy to be pressed out) and they'll remain filled with the epoxy and act as keyways similar to the one in your hinge pin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2020-10-13T15:35:51.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11109" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13254" CreationDate="2020-10-13T16:36:56.690" Score="7" ViewCount="1266" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have a good reference for the reason a typical wood or metal sliding T-bevel comes to a point?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've always wondered, and recently this tool came up in a semi-famous YouTube video, which rekindled my curiosity. I asked in the YT comments, and someone suggested the point would not be in the way when taking inside measurements, but this seems a reach, as the point angle is fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some basic searching did not come up with anything concrete, and my venerable Encyclopedia of Woodworking Handtools does not mention the point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My only poor theory is that the bevel on the point nests nicely inside the stock, so this might be a way to make the bevel a handy straight-edge. (Except mine is is a &lt;em&gt;terrible&lt;/em&gt; straight-edge!) Or  just so it seats nicely and locks into position for safety of the user and to protect the tool in a toolbox or drawer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also saw one reference to the point being handy for marking, which seems like a &lt;em&gt;terrible&lt;/em&gt; idea (and another reference specifically called out making sure the edge of the point on a smaller version was dull for safety in a pocket).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the bevel along the short edge of the blade itself is some known angle (typically 45 deg.), I suppose there might be marking out techniques (saw, dovetails or similar) where the bottom of the point bevel would be parallel to some reference, useful for squarely marking out the bottom of the waste. Though, given that tails and pins would often be cut at completely different angles from that bevel angle I can't rationalize that, either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless, all my searches, if they mention the point at all, are inconclusive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know, either from actually using it for a specific reason, or by citing a reliable source?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-10-15T19:34:58.420" LastActivityDate="2023-04-30T11:55:05.097" Title="Why does the blade of a sliding T-bevel have a point?" Tags="|hand-tools|measurement|square|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11110" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-14T13:59:36.177" Score="1" ViewCount="114" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the problem of selecting wood for making casings and baseboards and other architectural trim. In my situation cost is not an objective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The millworkers I currently use prefer sapele. The problem with sapele is that it is dark, oily and has a relatively deep grain, so that makes it difficult to paint (most of my trim is painted white). So, what happens is that the primer tends to soak into the sapele, then it has to be re-sanded and primed again, repeat over and over. Also, a lot of coats are necessary to cover the naturally dark shade of the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One obvious improvement would be genuine mahogany which is lighter in color, less porous and less oily. The main drawback is that it is more difficult to obtain genuine mahogany and so lead times might be longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Naively, I have suggested maple which is light in color, hard, has a tight, easily painted grain. However, the millworkers say it is unusable for casings because it tends to twist. If this is true, one creative workaround might be to use a maple butcher block which will not twist, but how well butcher block mills, I don't know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am interested in other suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One wood I am looking at is sweet birch. It is pretty hard stuff and looks close grained from the photo. How is it for stability? Does it tend to twist like maple does?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastEditorUserId="306" LastEditDate="2020-10-15T21:26:42.507" LastActivityDate="2020-10-15T22:25:33.273" Title="Wood selection for casings and baseboards?" Tags="|materials|molding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11110" CreationDate="2020-10-14T15:39:45.243" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Poplar seems to be the preferred wood for painting. It's got a nice, tight grain that sands nicely, takes paint well and leaves a smooth surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has the additional advantage of being cheap. While you may be &lt;em&gt;willing&lt;/em&gt; to spend more, there's no point in doing so for a &amp;quot;fancy&amp;quot; wood if you're going to &lt;s&gt;slop&lt;/s&gt; apply paint over it. Nobody will ever know if there's &amp;quot;plain&amp;quot; poplar or &amp;quot;snazzy&amp;quot; genuine mahogany underneath a coat of white paint. Take the difference in cost of the wood and apply it to a higher quality of paint if you feel the need to burn some cash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to stain, then by all means get something nice and leave the poplar behind. Poplar's got some weird coloration in it (at least the poplar I've seen) that probably wouldn't look nice under stain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2020-10-14T15:39:45.243" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11112" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11167" CreationDate="2020-10-14T22:46:36.110" Score="3" ViewCount="1206" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was asking a question on the cooking SE site about best utensils for cleaning and scraping pans w/o damaging them (particularly nonmental utensils) and realized that I probably have all the tools I need to make my own wooden utensils, which I've found to be very good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only thing I don't know is what kind of woods would be good (and what kind to avoid)? I have access to some free oak (I believe it's Live Oak), so I'm hoping that would be good. But if not, what would be a good wood available to someone in North Texas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8139" LastActivityDate="2020-10-28T00:33:46.453" Title="Good wood(s) for making kitchen utensils?" Tags="|wood-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11113" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-15T03:34:02.050" Score="0" ViewCount="567" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a deck in the Pacific North West and it rains a lot so I'm using tigerwood. However, I still have cupping concerns so I am going to cut a minimum of [2] kerfs lengthwise in the 5/4 x 6 boards I have. The boards vary in length from 10-20 feet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are recommended ways to do this quickly and efficiently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have table saw (with dado blade set), skill saw, router, angle grinder, and can get others if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9272" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2020-10-19T16:33:49.270" LastActivityDate="2020-10-19T16:33:49.270" Title="What are some suggested methods to cut kerfs in long deck boards?" Tags="|kerf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11114" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11160" CreationDate="2020-10-15T13:33:18.210" Score="1" ViewCount="420" Body="&lt;p&gt;When cross-cutting softwood 2x4s, I find that the blade always cuts more cleanly on the right hand side of the blade than the left.  I am not talking about tear-out here, the cut is rough through the whole of the material.  As a result, I end up having to make the final cut with work-piece on the right.  But the saw (Evolution Rage 5s with 80 tpi blade) has a nice smooth mitre slide on the left but only a rather wobbly mitre slot on the right - I therefore have to compromise support for a clean cut.  Is it normal for a table saw to cut more cleanly on one side of the blade that the other (regardless of how the wood is supported), and if not, how do I fix this?  Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9273" LastActivityDate="2020-10-27T13:09:18.257" Title="table saw cuts rough on left side, clean on right" Tags="|technique|table-saw|cut|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="18" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11115" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-15T15:14:42.337" Score="-1" ViewCount="376" Body="&lt;p&gt;I notice that various web articles on using CA glue to do wood filling the authors generally recommend using an accelerator, like baking soda or a professional accelerator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the necessity of using an accelerator? I thought that superglue dries in like 10 minutes or less anyway, why do we need to rush it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My primary use would be making do-it-yourself fillers using sawdust, so fast drying might be a disadvantage because I would have only seconds to apply the filler before the glue hardened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2020-10-15T16:38:06.913" Title="Necessity of using an accelerator with CA glue?" Tags="|glue|filler|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11110" CreationDate="2020-10-15T15:58:42.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best material for painted trim is not wood at all.  You should be using MDF, or, if you're worried about denting, PVC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These man made materials surpass wood for this application in almost every way other than not having open grain if that look is desired.  But since you're mentioning using maple and that you don't want the deep grain of sapele this should be perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2020-10-15T15:58:42.707" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11115" CreationDate="2020-10-15T16:38:06.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is not necessary to use an accelerator with CA glue.  It is just that, an accelerator.  Thick glue in a wide joint will take a few minutes or more to set, but with the accelerator it's cured in a few seconds.  If you don't mind clamping your work up you don't need to use accelerator at all.  If you have a situation where you want more open time then you should not use accelerator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The faster curing that the accelerator can cause can also lead to more hazing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it is really, really handy to just squeeze your pieces for a few seconds and then have a permanent bond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2020-10-15T16:38:06.913" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11109" CreationDate="2020-10-15T19:31:06.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the only answer, so far, is that there isn't a specific or vital &lt;em&gt;woodworking&lt;/em&gt; reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Perhaps&lt;/em&gt;, a weak argument can be made that it allows the tang or blade to fit nicely into the stock. This agrees with the few references to this I've been able to find anywhere, including this one from the comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;The slot end is rounded whilst the other is cut off at an angle to enable it to open.&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;Charles Hayward, &lt;strong&gt;How to Make Woodwork Tools&lt;/strong&gt;, 1945&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I am unable to find any other historical reason for this typical design. And, as pointed out in comments, some sliding T-bevels don't have this feature at all!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did see one suggestion that you can stand the T-bevel up easily on that bevel to make setting up a saw to a common 45 degrees easier. This &lt;em&gt;seems&lt;/em&gt; reasonable, except:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The sliding T-bevel predates circular saws by many decades (centuries?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe a function of cheap &amp;quot;Mastercraft&amp;quot; tools, but the bevel on mine is vaguely between 43-44 degrees when I check with a protractor; I'm hard pressed to see how you wouldn't just use the T-bevel itself in the manner it was designed, and use a &lt;em&gt;measured&lt;/em&gt; 45 degrees instead of relying on some potentially incorrect machined bevel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to call it, and say this is a matter of tradition and maybe ease of use. Having the blade tuck into the stock like a folding knife is just reasonable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll leave this one open for a bit in the hopes I'm proven wrong!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-10-19T08:19:29.823" LastActivityDate="2020-10-19T08:19:29.823" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11113" CreationDate="2020-10-15T19:47:58.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't say what tools you have at your disposal, but this is a job for a table saw or a circular saw with a guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a circular saw, you'll be running through your lumber twice, once from each end, to get your two kerfs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a table saw, you either run the material twice, once from either end along a fence. Or, depending on your saw and width of material, stack up two (or more) blades and spacers in a dado configuration with only the blades cutting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend helping with the table saw out-feed would be recommended so you keep the rest of your fingers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case, use a relatively stout rip blade intended for rough construction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-10-18T15:32:20.533" LastActivityDate="2020-10-18T15:32:20.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11120" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11133" CreationDate="2020-10-15T19:58:00.817" Score="0" ViewCount="815" Body="&lt;p&gt;What would be the best grit to stock on my drum sander to level and sand end-grain butcherblocks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would think 36 grit would go fastest but I'm not sure that's the best option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I have a Powermatic 209HH and (this was my first glue-up) I had a pretty big height difference between high and low points (maybe 1/4 inch or so). After sanding I plan to use a beeswax/mineral oil finish.  It's about 1.75&amp;quot; x 14&amp;quot; x 23&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9275" LastEditorUserId="9275" LastEditDate="2020-10-30T21:25:20.017" LastActivityDate="2020-10-30T21:25:20.017" Title="What grit sandpaper should I use on my drumsander?" Tags="|sanding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11110" CreationDate="2020-10-15T19:59:32.563" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oak. Usually so-called white oak. But red oak will also do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the traditional wood used for this purpose. Even the sapwood is hard enough in most cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like most hardwood, it can be rather expensive, but you can get lower graded lengths if you shop around. It cuts well, works well, sands well, seals well, takes paint well, and is very stable. It is very hard for its mass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And since you are priming and painting, you can choose very durable modern paints that, when applied with care, offer a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of scuff and dent protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maple, in my opinion, would be overkill. It would also be really expensive, and it's harder to find cheaper grades for this sort of use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, look around online and see if someone is disposing of old baseboards or other boards you can repurpose. Heck, you could look around for some partially engineering product, where they take cheaper pieces of softer hardwood and combine them into nominal sizes for this exact sort of application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-10-15T22:25:33.273" LastActivityDate="2020-10-15T22:25:33.273" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11122" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-17T16:00:13.137" Score="1" ViewCount="198" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started some furniture projects with Baltic Birch plywood this summer. I've been using low-VOC &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rustoleum.ca/product-catalog/consumer-brands/varathane/oil-based-stains/premium-gel-stain&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Varathane gel stain (clear)&lt;/a&gt; and their &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rustoleum.ca/product-catalog/consumer-brands/varathane/water-based-clear-finishes/interior-diamond-wood-finish&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Diamond Wood Finish (Semi-Gloss)&lt;/a&gt; to finish the pieces, and I do like the look I get with that. But, since the temperature is starting to drop I can't leave the pieces outside on my balcony for the finish to dry!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I'm looking for options to finish the raw plywood that I can let dry inside my studio apartment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked at non-toxic/no-voc oils, such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.realmilkpaint.com/shop/oils/half-and-half/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Real Milk Paint Co.'s Tung Oil&lt;/a&gt;. It seems like that might be a good option for a No-VOC finish, but I know there's a lot out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would this &amp;quot;No-VOC&amp;quot; option still stink up my whole place?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are these natural oils suitable for mid-wear plywood piece, like a coffee table? (I understand that it won't be the same as a varathane.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL:DR; Help me not gas myself and my partner with varathane fumes over the winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9288" LastEditorUserId="9288" LastEditDate="2020-10-18T14:49:35.170" LastActivityDate="2021-11-12T17:06:50.580" Title="Curing no-VOC finishes indoors?" Tags="|finishing|toxicity|tung-oil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11124" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-17T22:31:09.577" Score="1" ViewCount="1422" Body="&lt;p&gt;A local sycamore came down and pictured is the 20&amp;quot; diameter &amp;quot;slab&amp;quot; the town's chainsaw guy was nice enough to cut on the spot. But it's thick and too heavy. My wife can't handle it. I wanna slice it in half the long way and have 2 circular &amp;quot;tree trunk&amp;quot; cutting boards, just lighter and thinner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some local woodworkers I called can't seem to do it. Maybe something about the diameter being too large. What's a couple ways to accomplish this whether local pros &lt;em&gt;would&lt;/em&gt; have the equipment or something an amateur like me could possible do himself.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wqMV8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wqMV8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9292" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-10-23T07:00:27.017" LastActivityDate="2020-10-23T17:57:50.923" Title="How do I thin down an existing thick log-slice cutting board?" Tags="|cutting|cutting-board|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11124" CreationDate="2020-10-18T01:55:55.010" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are asking is to &amp;quot;resaw&amp;quot; this into more usable lumber. This comes with some challenges:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's ~20 inches in diameter, which is pretty large.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's urban lumber, and no one wants to risk hitting a nail with their expensive saw that can resaw 20 inches.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few ways you can resaw this, and one requires finding someone with lumberyard equipment willing to risk hitting a nail. There is equipment intended to cut slabs that might be able to slice this lumber (essentially a high-powered horizontal band saw), but it isn't common in the home shop. You'd have to call around at local lumberyards and ask if they resaw small jobs of urban lumber. Some places specialize in resawing urban lumber so you might get lucky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose a large enough band saw that had a large enough throat could do it, but that would be a really big band saw. And then you'd have to hold the lumber in a pretty dangerous jig. &lt;em&gt;And&lt;/em&gt; then you might still hit a nail. So, you need to find someone with a 24in band saw who is willing to put in the time to jig this up safely and risk breaking a blade. You'd be expected to cover the cost of the blade, I expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a good friend and some patience you can try to resaw this the old fashioned way: with a &amp;quot;two-man&amp;quot; saw (otherwise known as a &amp;quot;misery whip&amp;quot;) but that would take some dedication and a lot of sweat equity on your part. And you'd have to buy or borrow the saw, and know how to use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put plainly: you need to find someone with special equipment willing to do this work and take the risks, or you have to do the work yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be aware that cross-sections like this are very unstable the thinner you make them. It'll start to check and crack, and there will not be anything you can do to stop it. This is why large blocks like this are usually quite thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly, you should do what everyone does who has a large cross section like this as a chopping block: put it somewhere semi-permanent and don't move it. A board like this is intended to be used in a more commercial setting, as it can take a lot of abuse and be scraped down as it wears. Find a place for it in the kitchen prep area and live with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-10-18T15:41:10.110" LastActivityDate="2020-10-18T15:41:10.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11127" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11128" CreationDate="2020-10-18T11:09:45.223" Score="2" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got an old ottoman chest with a broken hinge. I'd like to replace it but don't know the name of the hinge type and my Google skills have failed me. The key part is the loop of metal that stops the hinge opening too far. I'm happy to hear if there's an alternative that can do the same job. The plywood the hinge is mounted to is 12mm/half inch in thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5bnVh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5bnVh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;unknown hinge&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9294" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-10-18T15:30:51.127" LastActivityDate="2020-10-18T15:30:51.127" Title="Unknown hinge type on ottoman chest" Tags="|hinges|hardware-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11127" CreationDate="2020-10-18T12:36:54.143" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a &amp;quot;stop hinge&amp;quot; or a &amp;quot;box hinge with stop&amp;quot;. There are ones that have built-in soft close and/or lift function that mount on the inside of the box. Good if you want to replace those external surface mount ones with something a little nicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-10-18T14:13:12.347" LastActivityDate="2020-10-18T14:13:12.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11129" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-18T14:30:41.600" Score="0" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;New to the forum and need advice. I need to join existing pieces of pine 3/4&amp;quot; x 4&amp;quot; x 24&amp;quot; and/or 2&amp;quot; x 2&amp;quot; x 54&amp;quot; pine leg (3 dowel holes provided by wood supplier) with a 3/4&amp;quot; x 4&amp;quot; x 36&amp;quot; acrylic panel.  I've seen videos about excess heat when drilling into Acrylic with a drill press.  Assuming I have a drill press and a vertical drilling jig/table, fence, etc. Do not have any type of laser cutter and acrylic may be too thick to use a laser cutter ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem: How to drill the exact matching peg holes in the 3/4&amp;quot; wide edge of the Acrylic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this practical without cracking/melting acrylic?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How would you recommending creating a jig to copy the existing 3 dowel positions (x,y,z) from the pine wood?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there special bits I should be considering or RPM speed maximums?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other questions I should be asking the forum?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PleYg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PleYg.png&quot; alt=&quot;View looking through acrylic panel&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FR4iC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FR4iC.png&quot; alt=&quot;View looking along plane of acrylic panel&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9295" LastActivityDate="2020-10-19T00:36:40.040" Title="Dowel joint between 3/4&quot;x4&quot;x3' pine wood board and 3/4&quot;x4&quot;x36&quot; acrylic panel" Tags="|dowel|jig|fence|joints|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11122" CreationDate="2020-10-18T15:04:45.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't have much of a choice here. Using a curing, non-penetrating finish requires time to off-gas and cure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't stand the odour there isn't much you can do about that. Though, modern water-based low VOC finishes cure very fast, and the odour dissipates quite quickly. You will probably have more issue with dust mitigation with the required light sands between coats. (Which I think is probably the more important health and safety aspect of finishing inside; the curing finishes you have chosen are reasonably safe if you have some air movement. The fine dust, however, gets everywhere and is hard to mitigate.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just opening a window and letting things air out for a few hours will &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; drop the ambient temperature in your apartment to below the curing temperature, assuming you leave your heat on. It'll be wasteful of that heat energy, of course, and it depends on the outside temperature. Doing this in SW Ontario late autumn vs. Winnipeg or Edmonton in January is altogether two different situations. But it's not like opening a window will ruin the curing process. As long as you don't &lt;em&gt;literally&lt;/em&gt; freeze yourselves it'll be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your only other option is to choose a penetrating finish, like the wiping oils you mention. Check the previous Q&amp;amp;A for advice regarding best ways to choose and apply those. But these finishes don't add much in the way of protection. And even those finishes need some time to cure to some extent, which comes with its own odour problem. There will be less dust to contend with if you take this route, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose you can also put off your finishing until spring, or if you really want to get serious, see if you can rent a shop space with like-minded hobbyists. There may be &amp;quot;makerspace&amp;quot; style shops where you live (there is where I live) where you also get the advantage of local experts &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; a shop space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2020-10-18T15:04:45.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11124" CreationDate="2020-10-18T18:23:25.397" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There may be a way to use an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=alaska%20sawmills&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Alaskan Chainsaw mill&lt;/a&gt; to cut it in half, if you can secure the piece from moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not you could find a mill-work shop that is willing to run it through their planer; &lt;em&gt;of course this gets you only one slab&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure why there would be nails in green wood from a newly fallen tree but you could use a metal detector to ensure there are none.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2917" LastEditorUserId="2261" LastEditDate="2020-10-23T17:57:50.923" LastActivityDate="2020-10-23T17:57:50.923" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11129" CreationDate="2020-10-19T00:36:40.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your comment really clarifies your needs. Please add the RR benchwork description to your original question. It is a big help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that I can picture your project, I would suggest some small light colored screws instead of wooden dowels. Now I see the need for the Acrylic between your track levels but wooden dowels will be very visible in the clear plastic. Dowels require a fairly large dia. hole and glue to hold them in. A drilled hole in Acrylic is very visible, a drilled hole filled with glue and a dowel will really stick out. Frankly, I think they'll end up being an ugly distraction and take away from that clear window effect you're looking for (IMHO).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found small screws to be the least distracting when they must be visible. You can drill the screw holes with your preferred wood drill bit and at normal wood drilling speeds. I would definitely do a couple practice holes and screws just to be sure they are the way you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a nice feature that the wood supplier included pre-drilled dowel holes in the wood but you don't have to use the provided dowel holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9035" LastActivityDate="2020-10-19T00:36:40.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11120" CreationDate="2020-10-19T01:23:33.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't say what machine you have or the max height difference between your lowest and highest blocks. On my Supermax 19-38, I would start with 60 or 80 grit depending on that height differences. I prefer to glue things up with the minimum variance in height and then take as many light passes as needed to create an even surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can then go up to as high of a grit as you wish from there. Just go with light passes on the high grits as I can see too much heat glazing your end-grain blocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're working with a height difference of 1/4&amp;quot; or more, I'd definitely start with some 36 grit and work up. The drum sander does all the work so you don't really need to worry about the sweat equity involved in removing the sanding marks from the 36 grit. The thickness drum sander really is fantastic tool. I could easily get lazy using it too often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9035" LastActivityDate="2020-10-19T01:23:33.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11124" CreationDate="2020-10-19T01:47:12.370" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beautiful piece of wood. If your true end goal is to double your wood, then @jdv seems to have covered the subject thoroughly. If your end goal is to make it light enough so your wife can and will use it, then I have a different idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd flip it over and using a router, I'd just hog out wood until I had a perimeter wall 3/4&amp;quot; to 1&amp;quot; thick and leave enough for a cutting top thickness of 1&amp;quot; give or take. With some creative work holding you could probably rout a couple of finger grooves on the outside of the perimeter wall to make it easier for your wife pick up, if that doesn't alter the current appearance too much. Either way, you'll likely cut the current weight in half, at least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once turned right side up again, it should appear as the very nice slab that it is now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9035" LastActivityDate="2020-10-19T01:47:12.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11109" CreationDate="2020-10-20T04:58:32.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cut end provides a point for drawing your angled line up to a corner or an obstruction. Much the same as a drafting square (those triangular drawing tools) allow you to reach the point toward your final drawing destination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5916" LastActivityDate="2020-10-20T04:58:32.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11136" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11317" CreationDate="2020-10-20T18:35:41.877" Score="1" ViewCount="3349" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to buy a dado stack, but 30mm is hard to come buy due to laws forbidding selling them in Europe. Using them for personal use is ok, so I can order from abroad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Dewalt DW7492 table saw with a &amp;quot;30mm&amp;quot; arbor, but it is 14mm (9/16&amp;quot;) wide and 30mm (1&amp;quot;) long. It uses a flange washer that centers the 30mm ID blade on the shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BxT0A.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BxT0A.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;blade with flange&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZGjGS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZGjGS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;arbor width&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r3Uak.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r3Uak.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;arbor length&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect this is the same arbor as North American models with a different flange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone support this theory? Is there anything I should be weary of trying to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update about the law&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This law appears to have gone in effect in 2012. You can find links to the EU  directive &lt;a href=&quot;https://osha.europa.eu/no/legislation/directives/directive-2006-42-ec-of-the-european-parliament-and-of-the-council&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, which is defined in Article 12.3 based on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.standard.no/no/Nettbutikk/produktkatalogen/Produktpresentasjon/?ProductID=1141260&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this ISO standard&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9301" LastEditorUserId="9301" LastEditDate="2020-12-14T13:24:29.007" LastActivityDate="2024-01-10T18:19:26.817" Title="Using a 5/8 dado stack on a &quot;30mm&quot; arbor" Tags="|table-saw|dado|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10582" CreationDate="2020-10-21T04:13:54.217" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that there should be no good reasons for this to happen. All that should be required is that you tighten the nut correctly, and then as others have said, the spin direction of the spindle combined with the thread direction of the nut should work to tighten it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that it's happened twice to you and that there seem to be several other people in the comments saying they've had the same problem with this model, I suspect something wrong with the manufacturing - though heavens knows what - perhaps an improperly machined thread on the nut or the spindle? Maybe they have a worn or misaligned tool somewhere in their process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've worked in professional woodworking shops for a total of ~16 years, with many different kinds of saw and many different makes and models running for probably tens of thousands of hours in total while I've been there, and I have never heard of a saw arbor nut coming loose like this - it just shouldn't happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a critical safety defect of this nature, I would strongly recommend returning the saw for a different make/model, if you're able - it's just too dangerous to risk it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastEditorUserId="272" LastEditDate="2020-10-22T19:12:01.590" LastActivityDate="2020-10-22T19:12:01.590" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11139" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11140" CreationDate="2020-10-21T06:48:59.960" Score="1" ViewCount="1180" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have butcher block counter tops that I just bought. Unfinished birch to be exact. I stained the block then let sit for 48hr. After that, I put 4 coats of wipe on poly on. It looks and feels fine except for one thing. When I bend down and look level with it, it looks like some spots didn’t take the shine as well. I’m looking to have and even shine on the whole thing! I did sand lightly in between coats also. (Side note) I did sand the block when it was bare with 220 grit sand paper. It was completely smooth and wiped down 3 times with tac cloth. PLEASE HELP!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9305" LastActivityDate="2020-10-21T08:42:25.283" Title="After 4 coats of light wipe on poly my counter looks spotty" Tags="|finishing|polyurethane|butcher-block|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11139" CreationDate="2020-10-21T08:42:25.283" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is perfectly normal with dilute coats of varnish, &lt;em&gt;especially&lt;/em&gt; on something like the counter top material you bought where the grain direction, piece to piece, can be (usually is) so varied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some spots (e.g. around knots) the grain will be nearly at right angles to the surface, and these areas are &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; more absorbent&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; than the majority of the wood, where the grain runs more parallel to the surface. In addition to the lower gloss in those spots you should notice they have a noticeably darker colour, from them absorbing much more stain than the surrounding wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to develop a completely even surface in terms of reflections/surface gloss you need to build up coats of finish until that happens. The thinner the finish&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; the more coats it takes. There's no useful rule of thumb for you here I'm afraid — because wiping varnish and wood vary so much — so it's just a matter of keeping going until you get there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is just one of those things where it takes as long as it takes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following won't actually have impacted the uniformity of the surface gloss much or at all, but I mention it for completeness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did sand lightly in between coats also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not normally needed, or desirable, when using wiping varnish. You sand between coats of any finish &lt;em&gt;where necessary&lt;/em&gt;, and ergo not when it isn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if the surface is good, and there are no 'nibs' or specs of dust adhering to the surface — which would be typical when using wiping varnish — you should just recoat without sanding. Sanding between coats is always a small step backwards from the final finish you're looking to achieve, so it should be done minimally&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; or not at all if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Close to or the same as end grain, which is famous for its absorbency which is why it so often looks much darker than the long-grain surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; This means both the physical thickness of the coat as well as the dilution, which directly affects the first thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; For example just two swipes with med/fine paper such as 320 or even 400 grit, &lt;em&gt;with almost no pressure on the paper&lt;/em&gt; — some finishing experts recommend you use just the weight of your arm here. Sometimes you can even de-nib successfully with the rough side of brown Kraft paper, which is now my preferred way to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-10-21T08:42:25.283" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11141" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-21T11:20:40.043" Score="0" ViewCount="285" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard some people say that one doesn't have to drill a clearance hole if the screws are partially threaded when joining two boards. The argument being that the shank just won't grip into the first board at all and there won't be a risk of bridging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I have noticed on my projects that the shank is often much too short to clear the first board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, if the shank doesn't fully clear the first board, and the upper thread is still gripping into the first board, do I need a clearance hole in the first board to ensure the two boards remain tightly together?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9307" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-10-21T12:34:28.170" LastActivityDate="2021-05-22T13:14:34.407" Title="Clearance hole for partially threaded screws" Tags="|screws|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4640" CreationDate="2020-10-21T14:12:38.063" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find that when bridging happens, pushing the boards apart instead of drawing them together, I'll back the screw out, pull them together (by hand or with a clamp, as appropriate), then drive the screw home again. In almost every situation I've come across, this is sufficient to get the boards tight together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would agree, however, that an unthreaded portion of the screw or a clearance hole would eliminate the problem from the get go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2020-10-21T14:12:38.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11143" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-21T16:52:30.990" Score="1" ViewCount="2121" Body="&lt;p&gt;See the image below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I lay this out in Fusion, I can get the angles but I can't figure out how to calculate it mathematically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The goal is to have the angled stretcher fully contact the upper 45&amp;quot;-long support and the floor(even though there will be excess to remove.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a formula for calculating the stretcher angle (35.8 in this case) and the length that the 2x4 would have to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know how to calculate all of the angles of a right triangle, but no combination or the dimensions of the project give the correct angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/izgTI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/izgTI.png&quot; alt=&quot;Work Table&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="904" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2020-10-22T11:23:03.073" LastActivityDate="2021-11-08T14:54:12.893" Title="How do I calculate a miter angle?" Tags="|table-making|miter-saw|miter-joint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11144" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-21T17:37:23.443" Score="1" ViewCount="1701" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi everyone I have a large dining chair where the factory drilled a hole that attaches the back 2-3mm off. The idea is to fully close up the hole and re-drill in proper place. The 2 holes will overlap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CDg4r.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CDg4r.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for most structurally sound solution, it will be under the chair so looks do no matter. I saw some methods such as using dowels, toothpicks, wood filler etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one that looked best for slow structural repairs looked like this one &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/3809/9309&quot;&gt;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/3809/9309&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I correct or is there a better way? Also my concern is redrilling and putting a screw into epoxy. Would it be too brittle? How well would it hold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9309" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-10-21T18:06:12.030" LastActivityDate="2020-10-27T14:09:24.127" Title="Filling an old hole to offset it a few mm and put in a fastener, what is the best approach?" Tags="|wood|furniture|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11144" CreationDate="2020-10-21T18:10:59.853" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a hardwood dowel and PVA &lt;em&gt;wood&lt;/em&gt; glue. I mean, you could use hide glue if you want, but don't use epoxy. We want something that is strong and workable like wood. Epoxy will be hard, but it won't be easy to work. And the strength here is about a tight glue joint, not super hard cured glue. We want it to be able to saw, drill, and scrape like wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, typical wood filler isn't going to hold the head of a torqued down screw very well, and it does not really adhere well to the surrounding wood. (Perhaps there are some more exotic types of filler, but then we are getting away from what should be a very simple, time-tested, and common fix: wood glue and a dowel.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slightly shape and chamfer a dowel so it goes into the hole snugly. You want a nice tight interference fit, but not so tight it pushes all the glue out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Install it with enough glue to evenly wet all the mating surfaces (use a small paintbrush if necessary) with only a little squeeze-out, and let set. Once the glue is set to a workable amount (see the description on your glue bottle) flush cut the proud part of the dowel, and scrape flush if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for fasteners, it depends on  how this hole is being used. If it is intended to give access for a &lt;em&gt;wood&lt;/em&gt; screw to go through and fasten to wood behind it, you drill out the hole to the dimensions of the &lt;em&gt;threads&lt;/em&gt;. The idea with wood screws is that the head exerts the force on the top piece (with few, if any, threads engaging with the top material) drawing the two pieces together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-10-22T21:35:24.730" LastActivityDate="2020-10-22T21:35:24.730" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11136" CreationDate="2020-10-21T20:34:23.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is &amp;quot;no,&amp;quot; but I'll elaborate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dimensions are very critical in this area since small variances at the arbor can have huge effects at the edge of the blade. Also the motor spindle could have been treated differently for the euro model and it could bend or break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the arbor is even a small fraction oversized, the blade won't fit.  If the arbor is a fraction too small it would potentially induce a variance in the blade height that could (in theory) cause the blade to bite into the wood and send it back in your direction(kickback) or in the best case just give a very poor quality cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are companies that will sell you a dado set with any sized hole you want for a very small fee for the 30mm size.  I can give you my favorite, but send me a private message for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="904" LastActivityDate="2020-10-21T20:34:23.863" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11144" CreationDate="2020-10-22T09:04:16.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for most structurally sound solution&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And you should be, given this is a chair. If you want a wood-only solution you want to use a face-grain plug, not a dowel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you use a dowel it is the reverse of the grain direction of the surrounding wood, so you get end grain facing outwards. A screw won't hold in end grain as strongly as into long-grain wood. Now normally this &lt;strong&gt;isn't&lt;/strong&gt; as much of an issue as often thought (here's why&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;), but a chair is one of the cases where you want to go for the strongest solution possible, as you've specifically asked for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition there's a practical issue in terms of actually making the new hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When drilling like this, where the new drilled hole partially overlaps the previous one and you have a dowel plugging said hole the drill bit has a nasty tendency to wander into the dowel. This is because end grain is much easier to drill into than face grain. So it's hard to ensure the hole ends up quite where you want it, or at right angles to the surface. DAMHIK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for me, it's face-grain plug or epoxy for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two disadvantages of going with a face-grain plug however. The first is you need a piece of wood to cut it from&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, and the second is you have to buy a plug cutter (which usually come in sets). Here's what one of the better types looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pWrZr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pWrZr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tapered plug cutter&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Veritas tapered-plug cutter.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also my concern is redrilling and putting a screw into epoxy. Would it be too brittle? How well would it hold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filled epoxy is used extensively in some woodworking contexts, including many applications in modern boatbuilding. On a more small-scale level I've made structural repairs using DIY epoxy wood filler, i.e. wood dust mixed into epoxy. If everything goes well these are extremely durable and can certainly be sound enough to drill into (and tap if necessary) and to hold a screw&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not certain I'd want to use this here however, but I'd want to see the position of the hole and get a better idea of what it needs to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The last point above led me to thinking.... and unfortunately I realised that any hand-wringing may be largely unnecessary here. &lt;em&gt;This could be a clearance hole.&lt;/em&gt; And if so the screw actually only needs to pass through this piece and not hold &lt;strong&gt;in&lt;/strong&gt; it at all. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2708/are-there-specific-types-of-screws-i-should-use-for-woodworking/2714#2714&quot;&gt;previous Answer&lt;/a&gt; for more on pilot and clearance holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/7898/endgrain-screw-withdrawal-force/7988#7988&quot;&gt;Endgrain screw withdrawal force&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; There may be no need to source a separate piece of wood, an unseen surface in any of the chair (or matching table?) members could be fine here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; I repaired a ripped-out hole in a kitchen cabinet 2+ years ago and checking it recently there's no sign the Euro-style hinge (on one of the most-used doors) is less secure than any of the others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-10-22T09:04:16.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11143" CreationDate="2020-10-22T18:09:52.307" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://engineering.stackexchange.com/a/38322/29135&quot;&gt;Here's a solution I wrote over on the engineering site where this problem is cross-posted.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For anyone who may want to actually use this formula without evaluating the trig, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.geogebra.org/m/c77hzfpj&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here is a worksheet&lt;/a&gt; where you can enter the width of board you want to use, together with the length and height of the rectangle you need to span, and it finds a cut angle and the length of board you'll need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5304" LastEditorUserId="5304" LastEditDate="2020-10-25T14:04:41.620" LastActivityDate="2020-10-25T14:04:41.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11149" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11150" CreationDate="2020-10-23T01:13:25.170" Score="1" ViewCount="496" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took the legs off a cutting board because I want to use both sides of it. That has left four screw holes about 5mm (0.2&amp;quot;) in diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be OK to fill these holes with Titebond III glue or should I plug them with some wood and Titebond glue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my research of  previous questions it seems that epoxy, or saw dustand adhesive filling are also solutions for a small hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would filling using just Titebond be adequate or would it cause problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cutting board is made of end-grain walnut, and is new but looks really dry so I'm thinking if I use Titebond I'll do that before replenishing with oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no experience with woodworking though if it's a simple enough job I can give it a go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9316" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-10-24T13:42:49.630" LastActivityDate="2020-10-24T13:42:49.630" Title="Filling screw holes in cutting board" Tags="|wood-repair|end-grain|cutting-board|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11149" CreationDate="2020-10-23T07:57:18.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since this is an end-grain board filling the holes by glueing in dowels seems the ideal fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you could fill with a mix of sawdust (sanding dust) and glue and get a somewhat similar look. The reason that sawdust + glue mixtures are frequently &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; recommended is because they end up so dark compared to the surrounding wood. And that's because such filler material is similar to end grain. But here that's not a problem, it's actually an advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I think the best approach in this case is to glue in a dowel. If you don't have any suitable walnut dowel but have others you could use another species to make these a deliberate feature (i.e use a contrasting species of a lighter colour). If you would prefer to have the filled holes be as unobtrusive as possible and you have some scrap walnut you can easily and quickly make a basic &lt;em&gt;dowel plate&lt;/em&gt; to form your own dowels. A dowel plate at simplest is just a piece of steel with one or more holes drilled in it. Doesn't need to be tool steel, it can be mild steel (and surprisingly thin) if it doesn't have to last.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick overview of one approach to using a dowel plate can be seen &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.finewoodworking.com/2011/08/03/make-your-own-dowels-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; on Fine Woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paul Sellers has even demonstrated how it's possible to make quick-and-dirty dowels by pounding through the hole in a washer, see that and more &lt;a href=&quot;https://paulsellers.com/2013/07/poor-mans-dowel-maker/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-10-23T07:57:18.973" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5671" CreationDate="2020-10-23T11:56:50.753" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found myself in exactly the same situation as the OP, on exactly the same project.  I'm also building the Sellers workbench, and on my first mortise the holes were both very badly off vertical.  My leg pieces are 90 x 90, and the mortise holes &amp;quot;missed&amp;quot; by about 5mm at the halfway point.  Looking at it afterwards, the error was very obvious but my body position alongside the piece while chopping made it hard to notice that I was drifting off the vertical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4PMya.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4PMya.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;skewed mortise&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have much to add to the excellent answer by ww_init_js, except to say that if you're following a Paul Sellers video, don't be afraid to &lt;strong&gt;slow right down&lt;/strong&gt;.  Sure, Paul can cut a 3 inch mortise dead straight by eye, in roughly the time it takes me to blow my nose, but that doesn't mean I should try to do it as quickly and nonchalantly as he does.  His skill was earned over a lifetime of focussing on this craft.  Whereas I give it a go sometimes on weekends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my second mortise, I am making sure to take as much time as I need.  I've got myself positioned at the end grain of the leg, and a straight piece of wood clamped on to the reference face to act as a visual guide.  It's going much better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also found it helpful, if the chisel does start to twist on a chop, to flip the chisel around and pare down the twist in the &amp;quot;ramp&amp;quot; left behind by the chop. Make sure it is reasonably flat and perpendicular to the sides of the mortise before going for the next chop.  I think this helps to avoid the compounding effect, where one twisted chop makes the next chop twist even more, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9306" LastActivityDate="2020-10-23T11:56:50.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11152" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-24T12:45:22.833" Score="0" ViewCount="425" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a shelving unit from 3/4&amp;quot; plywood. The unit will be 6 feet high by 3 feet wide and I'm concerned about racking. I could use corner brackets on the back, but I was thinking it might look nicer if I backed the whole unit with plywood, providing a back and also the needed stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: would 1/8&amp;quot; plywood provide enough stability, or do I really need 1/4&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4640" LastActivityDate="2020-10-26T21:28:59.170" Title="Is 1/8&quot; plywood enough to prevent racking or do I need 1/4&quot;?" Tags="|plywood|racking|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11152" CreationDate="2020-10-24T13:47:12.240" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a look at how backs are used to stiffen flat-pack furniture. It's often nominally 1/8th in. (usually) paperboard, as it only has to hold the fasteners to the back and resist those fasteners wallowing out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, enough racking force over time can work fasteners out, or wallow out the holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll notice that flat-pack construction also often has the backing drop into a rabbeted groove around the back. This provides an easy way to square things up as long as you know the backing is square, and it provides an edge for the backing to resist racking beyond the fasteners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But 1/8 in. &lt;em&gt;plywood&lt;/em&gt; will be sufficient in most cases. The assumption is that you would use panel nails or similar fasteners to help keep them from working themselves out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-10-24T21:30:26.797" LastActivityDate="2020-10-24T21:30:26.797" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11025" CreationDate="2020-10-24T14:15:16.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;thanks for all your thoughts and suggestions.  In the end, partly because of the tools I had at my disposal, I just gambled on using a filler – in this case, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.toolstation.com/big-boy-filler-ultra-fine/p40826?utm_source=googleshopping&amp;amp;utm_medium=feed&amp;amp;utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&amp;amp;gclid=CjwKCAjwoc_8BRAcEiwAzJevtS-zls2QLF9erDXonlhG5a4cvarjmaKqAXX9qqDwXZ6-irhx2cOf9BoCBDsQAvD_BwE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Big Boy Body Filler&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from the fact that the filler smells bad and creates horrible fine dust when being sanded, it went quite well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My veneering skills are now the limiting factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IddSE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IddSE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;side one&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1cUQc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1cUQc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;side two&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9178" LastActivityDate="2020-10-24T14:15:16.363" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11155" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11159" CreationDate="2020-10-26T03:51:21.333" Score="5" ViewCount="508" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wood shop is outdoors since I don't have a garage in my current house that I'm renting.  As such, everything stays outside for the most part (except small power tools).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been buying construction grade lumber from HD for making all sorts of things whether it's wood shop upgrades or furniture.  I can't seem to justify buying the 'select' grade stuff so I usually just buy stuff like white-wood stud, etc. but from my reading, construction grade lumber is usually wetter than ideal. I was wondering if I could store the lumber outdoors so that it could dry to 8-10%?  I live in a somewhat humid area so I'm unsure how well this would work (East TN near Knoxville).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since outdoors would be ideal, I'd do anything reasonable if outdoors is feasible.  I do my woodworking on a deck so I could maybe even store the lumber below the deck and cover the spot with a tarp so it is covered from the rain.  I'm not looking to build any permanent fixtures here that would be hard to move once I buy a house. At the moment, it just sits below the overhanging roof which gets like 4-6 hours of sunlight on a clear day and shields it mostly from the rain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also since it is close to winter, the temps will be lower but usually no less than 25-30F on the coldest days.  Would it dry out at all in those temps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If necessary, I can convert this small storage room inside my house into a wood drying area but it would be cramped and I'd probably have a fan circulating air 24/7 and maybe even a space heater so I'm sure it'd add onto my electricity bill.  However, if drying outside would take a long time, I may just prefer to dry it inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9321" LastEditorUserId="9321" LastEditDate="2020-10-26T14:31:59.907" LastActivityDate="2020-10-27T22:31:10.237" Title="How can I dry lumber outdoors for furniture?" Tags="|wood-drying|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11156" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-26T11:48:34.760" Score="0" ViewCount="722" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to make some open shelves on my stairs in place of a wall that was removed. It would sit on the piece of wood that runs along side the stairs, which is around 40 degrees. I wanted to join the frame with finger/comb joints and I wanted to get the angle across reliably...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would people just lay flat the timber on the angle for the bottom piece and then get the upright clamped up nice and square next to it and then transfer it that way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fh6sI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fh6sI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VsTEB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VsTEB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f0Rkq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9325" LastEditorUserId="9325" LastEditDate="2020-11-02T10:50:13.343" LastActivityDate="2020-11-02T14:21:34.360" Title="Any tricks for transferring an angle that needs to be pretty perfect?" Tags="|wood|technique|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11152" CreationDate="2020-10-26T21:28:59.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The great thing about preventing racking is that it can be done completely through tension.  Almost any normal construction material is quite strong in tension.  1/8&amp;quot; plywood should be fine, as would be hardboard, paperboard, etc.  You don't even need the whole back, going from corner-to-corner diagonally in both directions is sufficient.  Steel cables or even stout cord will work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2020-10-26T21:28:59.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11156" CreationDate="2020-10-27T00:31:38.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your looking to just transfer take and transfer angles, you could use a sliding t bevel&#xA;This is at home depot for under $20.00.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yDjpV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yDjpV.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9329" LastActivityDate="2020-10-27T00:31:38.757" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11155" CreationDate="2020-10-27T04:04:27.270" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did some more research and thought I'd share some of my findings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing is that relative humidity and moisture content both use percentages but they are describing the idea of &amp;quot;water saturation&amp;quot; in a much different way.  It seems obvious but having humidity of 80% would not mean your wood would try to reach 80% moisture.  Equilibrium would be achieved much much lower.  There is actually some charts that show what kind of equilibrium moisture content would be at for a given RH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodworkerssource.com/wood-moisture-content.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.woodworkerssource.com/wood-moisture-content.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So looking at the chart above, we can see what kind of equilibrium moisture content we will achieve given a constant temperature and relative humidity.  In my specific area, we've been seeing temps at this time of year (mid autumn) around 70F.  Today, we had a RH of 80%.  If left alone in this exact condition for a long period of time, EMC would reach around 16%.  In other words, it would not be possible to achieve my goal of 6-8% moisture (amended after further research, not 8-10% as I initially thought).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've created a drying room today that I just checked on and has a RH of 45% in there.  Not bad but it's still getting started since I just added the dehumidifier into the room and those boards I'm sure are still releasing moisture, as I have about 150-200 board feet of wood in perhaps a 588 ft^3 space--quite a small space (12L x 7W x 7H).  In a real world scenario, I am expecting the maximum RH in this space to drop as the moisture within the wood also drops, as my dehumidifier is constantly condensing water in the air and eventually, there will simply be less water to pull out.  In other words, very wet wood will release a lot of moisture quickly, dry wood will release a little moisture slowly. This effect is why furniture might take months or years after being put into a real home before it warps.  So ideally, I think this room can achieve 30% RH (I suppose this will be a good test of the insulation in that room, since outdoor RH is usually 50-90% here).  With those numbers, I can achieve EMC of about 6%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to note is that cold air does not hold as much moisture as warm air.  So at colder temperatures, EMC is reached at a much higher moisture content than warmer temperatures, given a constant RH.  So attempting to dry wood in the winter outdoors would be even more difficult than in the summer time, on average.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to note is that RH is much more of a factor in a lower EMC than temperature.  If you can adequately control RH to about 30%, then your lumber should adequately dry for furniture anywhere from 30F to 130F.  A bonus would be controlling temperature as well but you should be careful with increasing temperature if you do not control RH.  While higher temperatures means lower EMC, if you do not control RH, then you have a chance for fungal growth, which can happen anywhere after 50% RH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to summarize, your best bet is to control humidity in some fashion.  If you can reach 30% humidity or lower, you should be able to adequately reach a moisture content adequate for furniture.  To help speed things up, increasing temperature also helps but you should not try to dry wood by only controlling temperature, unless using high heat like in the case of kiln-drying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9321" LastActivityDate="2020-10-27T04:04:27.270" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11114" CreationDate="2020-10-27T13:09:18.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fix for my problem was to approach the blade manufacturer Saxton who promptly sent a new blade which cuts as expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The budget nature of the saw does not seem to have been an issue, and I think my measurements of blade orientation with respect to mitre slots were probably also a red herring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks to everyone who contributed to this solution - this is a really helpful forum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9273" LastActivityDate="2020-10-27T13:09:18.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11161" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11173" CreationDate="2020-10-27T13:39:03.050" Score="1" ViewCount="313" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a circular saw recently. I noticed that sometimes as I finish a cut, the saw throws the free end of the board forward a couple of feet. Most of the time, the board just drops as expected, but every now and then, it gets projected. It doesn't seem like a huge deal, but I was curious to know if there is a technique to prevent this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wood I am cutting is SPF. I believe I've usually seen this happen when I am cutting off smaller pieces, from 2&amp;quot; to 12&amp;quot; in length. I am making crosscuts across boards that are 2&amp;quot; to 3&amp;quot; wide, and I make the cut in about 1-2 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9330" LastEditorUserId="9330" LastEditDate="2020-10-27T14:03:43.047" LastActivityDate="2020-10-31T03:02:58.260" Title="Circular Saw Throws Wood at End of Cut" Tags="|circular-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11164" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-27T16:47:40.153" Score="0" ViewCount="169" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought an old barn beam. It doesn’t have a lot of wood character but as a piece I love it and they are hard to come by around here. I wanted it for my mantle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don’t want to ruin it but I know very little about the properties of wood and stain and my attempts to educate myself have been not very successful. The folks at Home Depot have been nice, but I seem to get different suggestions every time I ask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I want:&lt;/strong&gt; cool medium brown&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Problem:&lt;/strong&gt; the beam is too warm/orangey&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tried  an espresso and a Jacobean stain  (&lt;em&gt;in an inconspicuous area&lt;/em&gt;)  that basically went on like black paint. Even after conditioning. The wood is old and dry and Home Depot suggested I condition first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don’t feel a need to sand it, I like it’s rough look but do I need to sand it for this to look proper.I will try to add pictures of what I’d like to have (color wise) and what I actually have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thought or help would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OChmj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OChmj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DpXcN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9331" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2020-10-28T12:07:57.710" LastActivityDate="2020-10-28T12:07:57.710" Title="Help with old beam for mantle" Tags="|wood|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11164" CreationDate="2020-10-27T20:41:49.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard to recommend without seeing what you've tried and without knowing how willing/able you are to experiment with it. You could try several finishes/methods on the part of the beam that would be against the wall/chimney and settle on one that gets you the closest to what you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some things you might try:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a pre-stain conditioner. This will kind of fill the especially porous areas of the beam and prevent the stain from soaking in unevenly. Perhaps a second coat of pre-stain conditioner would do the trick? You could try thinned shellac too maybe. That's essentially what the commercial pre-stain conditioner is, but you might get better results thinning it on your own, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Espresso and Jacobean are pretty dark colors. You might try multiple coats of lighter colors and keep applying until you get the shade you want.  There's also no reason why you have to use multiple coats of the same color either. You might try a more &amp;quot;greenish brown&amp;quot; first and top it with a &amp;quot;reddish brown&amp;quot; to get your color. Or, vice-versa depending on what your desired end result is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.diynetwork.com/made-and-remade/learn-it/use-gel-stain-to-spruce-up-cabinets-lamp-bases-and-more&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;gel stains&amp;quot; which are more like paint in some ways than stains&lt;/a&gt;. They're designed to kind of sit on top of the wood more than soak into it as much as standard stains do. I've never really liked gel stains, but a lot of people do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also wood dyes that soak in and color wood differently than stains. You might look at a dye instead. This &lt;a href=&quot;https://repurposeandupcycle.com/wood-dye-vs-wood-stain/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;site has some good pictures&lt;/a&gt; to compare the two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could apply an oil to the wood. That wouldn't necessarily change the color as much as a stain, but it might give the wood what could be considered a &amp;quot;wet&amp;quot; look and deepen the color enough for you. There are also colored oils (Danish Oil, etc.) that impart subtle coloring effect. Maybe enough to cancel out the orange hue you mention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Colored waxes might give you a bit of color and warmth that you wouldn't get with stain and a combination of dye, stain and wax is do-able, and sometimes used on furniture pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of these options are perhaps a little &amp;quot;over the top&amp;quot; for this project, but hopefully it will allow you to expand your research to some new options for getting the exact finish you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2020-10-27T20:47:42.393" LastActivityDate="2020-10-27T20:47:42.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11112" CreationDate="2020-10-27T21:54:34.723" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only thing I don't know is what kind of woods would be good (and what kind to avoid)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some features you want in wood for utensils:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.centerforanimalrehab.org/non-toxic-and-toxic-woods/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;nontoxic&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.precisebits.com/reference/relative_hardness_table.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;durable&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;closed grained&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;attractive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;unflavored&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen a lot of utensils made from woods like boxwood, maple, cherry, apple, olive, poplar, and beech. Avoid woods like red oak (very open grain, so hard to wash), teak (oily), cedar (strong flavor), and pine (resinous, flavored, soft). Woods that are suitable for cutting boards are probably also fine for utensils. I don't know what live oak wood looks like... if has large open pores like red oak, skip it; if it's more like white oak, with its fine, closed grain, it'd probably work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't need a lot of wood to make a cooking spoon, and it doesn't need to be straight or free of defects because you can work around problem areas. Branches that are too small to yield even a small bowl can still be cut into blanks for utensils, and offcuts from other projects that would otherwise go into a burn pile may be large enough to make spreaders and such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2020-10-27T21:54:34.723" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11112" CreationDate="2020-10-28T00:33:46.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;America White Oak (Quercus alba) should be available most places in North America (though it is not as plentiful as it used to be) and is one of the traditional species used for kitchen utensils in the Americas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mostly logged out and turned into  railway ties (!) but it can still be found at select lumber yards. Given you only need smaller pieces, you could get friendly with a place that sells off-cuts, and look for &amp;quot;quarter-sawn&amp;quot; or nearly so off-cuts suitable for spoons and the like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2020-10-28T00:33:46.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11088" CreationDate="2020-10-28T04:30:39.550" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had ordered a length of the red link type VBelt via Amazon. The order was cancelled and refunded for some strange reason whilst I was on vacation. So I reordered it again and it arrived the other day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assembly of the link belt was very convenient in the lathe because I was able to avoid having to dismount the motor and take apart the whole variable speed pully sheave mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I must say that the link type belt works very nicely in the lathe's variable speed adjuster. Overall the lathe drive system is smoother and operates with about half to one third of the noise and vibration of the original V-Belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2020-10-28T04:30:39.550" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11161" CreationDate="2020-10-31T03:02:58.260" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I learned this technique from my house-builder father from a young age: Do your cross cut (or any cut) normally but pause very near the end of the cut with the saw still running. Then focus on keeping the saw straight and zing the last bit. Use plenty of follow through as you shoot the saw away from the cut and the waste piece drops to the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5916" LastActivityDate="2020-10-31T03:02:58.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11174" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11181" CreationDate="2020-10-31T11:06:35.613" Score="1" ViewCount="5582" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wood is all 19mm MDF except the back panel and the horizontal boards are wedged between the sides and held by 2 screws on each side. I want to reduce the chance of the shelves sagging over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much weight should the current unimproved construction be able to hold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I intend on storing all my power tools inside here, so no more than 10kg per shelf. In order to prevent the boards from bending over time the current plan is to stabilize them from below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would you stiffen the shelves without wasting too much space?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DtFxz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DtFxz.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EKvQ4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EKvQ4.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9OfTZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9OfTZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this construction isn't the best but the shelf won't be used for storing Olympic plates. Just a few screwdrivers and grinders etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/540pc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/540pc.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On request I got my SLR + tripod and made some shots. The place is still in a bit of a mess though:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/1j4vGKHsy1xOceUMfYAolw1ZqHy_NvEIo/view&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://drive.google.com/file/d/1j4vGKHsy1xOceUMfYAolw1ZqHy_NvEIo/view&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3934" LastEditorUserId="3934" LastEditDate="2020-11-03T11:01:05.400" LastActivityDate="2020-11-07T19:57:38.990" Title="Improving sag resistance of MDF shelves" Tags="|mdf|stability|bowing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11175" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-31T12:35:06.187" Score="2" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to refinish the inside of a corner hutch. Below are images of the current condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F2yYm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sUCqh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;Click on image for a larger version of the image.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IoNlo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5G8zQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;Click on image for a larger version of the image.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The current plan is to paint the inside of the hutch the same color. I plan to clean the inside of the hutch with some rubbing alcohol or something similar. Also I plan to sand the inside with 220 grit sanding paper. The current thought is use an acrylic paint to paint the inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Questions&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I use a different sanding paper grit?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there an alternative to rubbing alcohol?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;References:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jennaburger.com/2014/09/how-to-prep-and-sand-wood-furniture/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;China Cabinet Makeover&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homeguides.sfgate.com/update-black-lacquer-hutch-57988.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Update a Black Lacquer Hutch&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9297" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2020-11-02T14:59:42.877" LastActivityDate="2020-11-02T14:59:42.877" Title="Overpainting corner hutch" Tags="|furniture|refinishing|paint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11175" CreationDate="2020-11-01T00:48:49.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your plan is sound. You must sand to scuff up any/all sheen on the existing paint. 220 is suitable (... I almost said &lt;em&gt;fine&lt;/em&gt;) or you could start coarser and sand again with 220 to remove fine scratches. No primer is necessary if you sand like described.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No alcohol wipe is necessary; in fact it could cause problems if it softens or wrinkles the existing paint. Just wipe down well with damp cloth. Acrylic paint will work fine over existing alkyd (oil-base) or water base as long as the sanding regimen is followed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2261" LastActivityDate="2020-11-01T00:48:49.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11175" CreationDate="2020-11-01T10:16:03.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rule of thumb with overpainting (or over-finishing, since this applies to clear finishes also) is that as long as the surface is completely clean, dull (matt) and dust-free you should get a decent bond&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I use a different sanding paper grit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;220 is a good choice. You could go a little coarser&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; or a little finer and still get acceptable results, but 220 is a good mid-range grit for this type of job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an alternative to rubbing alcohol?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, many.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just simply cleaning with hot soapy water may be enough to clean a surface sufficient to start the prep for refinishing, but it depends on what it is/might be contaminated with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Waxes aren't soluble in soapy water (even if the water is hot) so a solvent of some kind would be needed if any furniture polish or other product containing wax was ever used over the existing paint. Mineral spirits (UK: white spirit, Oz: mineral turpentine) is a good choice for this purpose, plus is also ideal for removing greasy or oily residues without the minor risk of exposing the piece to water. And generally speaking no fully-cured paint is adversely affected by mineral spirits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; This &lt;strong&gt;does&lt;/strong&gt; also apply to polyurethane, putting the lie to the conventional wisdom that you can't overcoat stuff originally finished in poly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; When painting you can sand more coarsely than when using a clear finish without it being a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-11-01T10:16:03.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11174" CreationDate="2020-11-01T23:56:04.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could stiffen them up by nailing or screwing a 1/2&amp;quot; x  1&amp;quot; or 3/4&amp;quot; x 1 1/2&amp;quot; hardwood strip across the underside of the front edge of each shelf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2261" LastActivityDate="2020-11-01T23:56:04.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11179" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-02T00:27:10.347" Score="2" ViewCount="215" Body="&lt;p&gt;My local lumber store stocks and sells the Sansin line of finishes. I am planning to finish a maple countertop soon, and want a hard, durable finish that maintains the &amp;quot;whiteness&amp;quot; of the maple without the amber/yellow that I'd probably get from an oil-based polyurethane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sansin Glacier bills itself as just that but I haven't been able to find very many reviews through google, youtube, or otherwise. Has anyone tried this product?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9355" LastActivityDate="2023-12-23T23:20:11.763" Title="Anyone with experience using &quot;Sansin Purity-Glacier&quot;?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11174" CreationDate="2020-11-02T09:16:04.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As clarified in the Comments, the back panel is thick enough MDF that fastening in through from the back is viable and that alone will do quite a bit to resist any tendency towards sagging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to stiffen the shelves still further there are various established ways of doing this for plywood that could be adopted here, e.g. the below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BaOHM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BaOHM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Plywood shelf edge stiffeners&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the simplest option I can think of, which can be retrofitted to the unit without any need to disassemble, is just to add a central support. This can be full depth back to front, a ply, MDF or solid-wood panel slid into place. Or a single narrow board at the front, either tacked in place with some toenailed brads or held by a dab of glue. Note that you'll want to add a support underneath the bottom shelf as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-11-02T09:16:04.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11156" CreationDate="2020-11-02T14:21:34.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; I'm following your drawing (though you appear to have books on the shelves - they must be very &lt;em&gt;narrow&lt;/em&gt; books to fit on what appears to be narrow shelves).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You clamp all of your vertical pieces to the edge of the top flight of stairs, with their bottoms (still cut square) resting in the proper location (as marked on the uphill point on the stringer) on the lower flight of stairs. Take your time and use your level to ensure that each one is as &amp;quot;perfectly&amp;quot; vertical as you're after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lay a straight edge (that level you were using, or a long, metal ruler) along the stringer on the lower flight of stairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Using a sharp pencil or scribe, mark each vertical where the straight edge crosses it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mark the top stringer where each piece of crosses the upper stair case (so you don't have to measure again).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Number each piece of wood so you remember where it's supposed to go back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cut the angle you marked on the bottom of each piece. Note that each one &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be exactly the same since they were all vertical and all marked in one shot with the straight edge. If your straight edge isn't long enough for the entire stair run (likely), you might have a couple of different angles, based on how much the stringer varies. If the stringer isn't very flat at all, you may want to mark each vertical individually with a short straight edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Reset all the verticals with their freshly cut bottoms sitting on the lower stringer and their tops clamped into position at the vertical marks. Recheck vertical, just to be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tweak the bottom cuts as necessary to achieve desired level of perfection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mark the top cuts to cut to length. Make the cut a smidge long (if you're like me) and work down to the precise measurement, if you're after that level of perfection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Finish building the rest of the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2020-11-02T14:21:34.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11186" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11188" CreationDate="2020-11-03T22:26:55.817" Score="1" ViewCount="1515" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most bed slats have a slight consistent upward bulging:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qIvcf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qIvcf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering how can one achieve this bulging and make it so precise that each slat is bulged the same amount of degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose that they are made by gluing two thin pieces of wood, one being a tad shorter. Am I right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5579" LastActivityDate="2023-08-26T08:49:49.100" Title="How to make bent bed slats?" Tags="|bending|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11186" CreationDate="2020-11-04T02:00:32.667" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This can be done by using multiple thin pieces of wood, glued together between each layer and being clamped to a jig/template. The other way is to steam and again clamp to a jig/template. The jig will also have to take into account that once you clamp the pieces they may want to spring back a bit.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8b0Wt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&#xA;Keep in mind that consistency will be based on experience, and quality of jig and materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9329" LastEditorUserId="9329" LastEditDate="2020-11-04T02:16:43.980" LastActivityDate="2020-11-04T02:16:43.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11186" CreationDate="2020-11-04T03:43:25.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well Ikea's bed slats are made by gluing, as you say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/luroey-slatted-bed-base-60160217/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/luroey-slatted-bed-base-60160217/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Materials: Layer glued slats:&#xA;Beech veneer, Birch veneer, Adhesive resin as coating&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So they probably are a few layers of ply with some resin applied between, which are pressed into a form with heat which (partially?) cures the resin and sets the shape very quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of this process (albeit for chairs) can be seen at the start of this video:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IndP2IKXTP0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IndP2IKXTP0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to do it at home then I would say that you could think about either steam bending or, as you say, gluing them up as a plywood from several thinner (bendy) pieces. The only thing is that I would think you would want them to have a little give, and gluing them up as multi-ply may result in a more rigid piece than if you were to have steam-bent or machined wood which may flex a bit more readily (though I am not certain of this, and if glued pieces are good enough for Ikea then it's probably fine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gluing up from multiple plies is fairly self-explanatory: Source some veneer or thin plywood (probably 3mm or so thickness), glue multiple layers together using a simple form to hold the shape while they dry. You'd have to leave them in the form for long enough to dry (probably an hour or more depending on the glue), unless you have an industrial heated press at home :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steam bending is a bit more involved but very doable - there are multiple videos on how to do it on YouTube. If you search for something like &amp;quot;steam bending wood at home&amp;quot; (without the quotation marks) you'll find multiple results. Most people seem to use either a home-made wooden steam box, or a capped length of PVC pipe, fed with steam either from a steam cleaner or simply a pot of water over heat, usually with a flexible pipe running to the steam box. You'll still need to build a form for this method (again, it can be quite simple), to clamp the wood while it cools and dries, and I understand there's a bit of an art to it - you'll likely need to experiment a bit and practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, unless you have a really good reason to make them yourself, I would consider just buying some. The Ikea ones are very reasonable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2020-11-04T03:43:25.727" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11189" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11190" CreationDate="2020-11-04T12:48:18.987" Score="0" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some old IKEA beds that are very squeaky. I tried to fasten each bolt as much as I can, but the squeakiness persists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I came to the conclusion that it is caused by some design flaw, but I cannot figure out what it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there some guidelines when designing beds to prevent squeakiness? For instance, are there some recommended joints?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5579" LastActivityDate="2020-11-04T16:29:39.357" Title="How to make a bed that is not squeaky?" Tags="|design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11189" CreationDate="2020-11-04T14:28:32.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem comes from two pieces rubbing together. Either the material is not clamped tight enough, and cannot be due to the material or fasteners used, or there is too much flex in the piece itself (not braced properly). IKEA furniture being flat packed and &amp;quot;easy to assemble&amp;quot; combined with the pricing has this kind of issue as an inherent flaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you switch from pine and particle board with veneer price goes up, change certain fasteners or joinery, complications happen with assembly or the ability to flat pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best advice I would say is see where the movement is in the piece and brace those joints to limit movement. Then the squeaks should be gone. Or you could lube it up with some WD40 ;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9329" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2020-11-04T16:29:39.357" LastActivityDate="2020-11-04T16:29:39.357" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11191" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-05T08:54:03.430" Score="3" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a book case out of melamine. The drawing below show the normal and exploded view. Dimensions are 110cm wide, 30cm deep, 126cm high (~43&amp;quot;x12&amp;quot;x50&amp;quot;)&amp;quot;. I'm worried about the stability of it, since it needs to support quite a bit of weight. The white panels are 3cm (1 1/4&amp;quot;) thick, the &amp;quot;wooden&amp;quot; panels are 1.9cm (3/4&amp;quot;) thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have reinforced the side with steel rods and plan on adding washers and nuts on there (not shown in the drawing) to make the ends more sturdy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a couple of questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In general, do you see any issues with the weight it needs to support? (the largest span is 45cm (17 3/4&amp;quot;)). According to what I saw for melamine of this thickness, that should be fine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you see any obvious issues that could cause racking? I added the steel rods to prevent this&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And my biggest issue: In the exploded view, where the red reference line is drawn and the horizontal cross supports connect to the upright support, I'm not sure which type of joinery to use. I don't want to add screws from the outside in. I thought about either dowels or pocket screws, but I'm not sure whether they will be strong enough to support the weight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5LnUo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5LnUo.png&quot; alt=&quot;book case melamine&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8877" LastActivityDate="2020-11-05T08:54:03.430" Title="Stability/joinery method for melamine" Tags="|joinery|strength|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="17" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11192" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11195" CreationDate="2020-11-06T07:41:32.660" Score="2" ViewCount="1797" Body="&lt;p&gt;My garage isn't finished; there's bare studs.  I want to set up a french cleat system to store my tools.  Can I do it directly against the studs?  Or do I need to hang drywall or a sheet of plywood first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5584" LastActivityDate="2020-11-06T20:08:23.843" Title="Will a french cleat system work against bare studs?" Tags="|storage|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11192" CreationDate="2020-11-06T12:49:59.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A French cleat relies on two points of contact - the rail at the top and the cabinet's bottom resting on the wall (otherwise it would be prone to rocking in and out on the cleat). If the cabinet (or whatever you're planning on hanging) is wider than the stud spacing, it would be able to lean on the studs in the same way as it does on the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest reinforcing the bottom of the cabinet in this case, to make sure that the bottom that spans the studs is rigid enough to support the weight (perhaps by adding a 1x4). This will also make it easy to use a non-flush French cleat which would simplify installation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2020-11-06T12:49:59.647" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11192" CreationDate="2020-11-06T15:46:50.723" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A french cleat relies on the cleat itself- placing a furring strip to further support is a belt and suspenders approach, at which point your cabinets could be screwed to those studs that are exposed and supported by the support strip. I prefer cleats as I tend to work by myself, and they make it easy to hang a cabinet solo. Your cleat will work fine on open stud framing.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e27Io.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e27Io.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;french cleat side profile&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9375" LastActivityDate="2020-11-06T15:46:50.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11192" CreationDate="2020-11-06T20:08:23.843" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this will work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you use a spacer, of the same material as the cleats, on the bottom of any storage units so they sit flat on the wall (&lt;em&gt;studs&lt;/em&gt;) so the bottom does not teeter in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;One issue is;&lt;/strong&gt; For any storage unit that is narrower then the stud bays, the bottom of the unit will not have  studs,&lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;wall&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;, to rest against. You will need to have a spacer on the  unit wide enough to bridge the studs or add a furring strip in between the studs for a smaller bottom spacer to rest against.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many YouTube videos on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=french%20cleat%20tool%20storage&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;French Cleat Tool Storage&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2917" LastActivityDate="2020-11-06T20:08:23.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11174" CreationDate="2020-11-07T19:57:38.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So this is what I did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Added screws from the back for each shelf:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5ndsd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5ndsd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Screwed a 2mm thick and 25mm wide Aluminum strip to the front of each shelf. I also put tension on the Aluminum so it would counteract the sagging (pressed downwards as hard as I could on the middle part while putting in the screws).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f9BbN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f9BbN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got them from my scrap metal heap, else i would have went for steel. They are 6mm wider than the wood so they're only slightly in the way. Not much vertical space for the tools in the shelves, some tools already had to be put in sideways, although my main drill will probably remain on top of the shelf for good. She's the boss in the house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Ifat.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Ifat.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The entire workspace. Work bench surface is 25mm MDF + 25mm MDF + 5mm MDF, all raw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hSmbg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hSmbg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Old unused Visaton FRS 8M loudspeakers used as tool holders. Tools are now magnetized as a consequence. Not sure so far wether that's a good thing or not :\&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qWeFk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qWeFk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Elevation of Mitre saw, Table drill and Table are all perfectly aligned. Had to add a dust fairing to prevent the Mitre Saw from blowing sawdust all over the Workbench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YczzT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YczzT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And no this is not the entire shop. The other side of the room will give the bandsaw a proper place. I will add a table saw, CNC drill, 3d printer and a weld station.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3934" LastActivityDate="2020-11-07T19:57:38.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11199" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-08T23:10:39.307" Score="1" ViewCount="1106" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've built my first desk using IKEA Adils legs and a worktop I bought and had custom-cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;European Walnut&#xA;Depth: 40mm&#xA;Width: 2900mm&#xA;Length: 620mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being supported by an Alex drawer on the right-side, a rear-centre mounted Adils leg, and 2 front/back left mounted Adils leg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say there is about 30kg of weight mounted on the far right side of the desk, but all the weight is either directly on-top of the Alex, or less than 600mm from it. All the weight is also at the rear of the desk, with only my arms weighing on the front (plus a keyboard and mouse).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mFTzL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mFTzL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sVpMr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sVpMr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LeGzW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LeGzW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DgkfT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DgkfT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am just worried the 2 left Adils legs are going to split and the desk will fall.. Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9384" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2020-11-09T11:19:23.173" LastActivityDate="2020-11-10T13:07:06.847" Title="Is this desk structurally secure?" Tags="|stability|weight-capacity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11199" CreationDate="2020-11-10T13:07:06.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's unclear if this question fits within the purview of &amp;quot;woodworking&amp;quot;, and we are only guessing that you are asking &amp;quot;will this walnut stave top split under load or because of fasteners?&amp;quot; With that in mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The table is fine. It isn't going anywhere under a static load twice what you've put on it. If you attached the legs with appropriate hardware, ideally into pilot holes, then that is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thickness and construction of the table top is very robust, and the spans (while longish) are well within acceptable for this construction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per the comments, the only thing you have to consider is how this survives any moves or misuse over time. Some furniture, especially flatpack office items, suffer more when being moved than when being actually used. So, as long as you make sure you don't rack the legs beyond what they can take and try not to let the table be a runway for drunken dance parties, it'll be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2020-11-10T13:07:06.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11201" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-10T17:01:37.297" Score="0" ViewCount="773" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a dining table with no aprons (&amp;quot;mid century modern&amp;quot; style), out of oak planks (first time doing tables, and something this large in general). Basically I want to copy this one:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uMhJB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uMhJB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homestock.nl/shop/meubels/tafels/eettafels/eettafel-camille/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://homestock.nl/shop/meubels/tafels/eettafels/eettafel-camille/&lt;/a&gt;. In the shop I didn't take pictures, but I recall that in the border of the table (20cm maybe), there was a second layer of planks glued, so it seems thicker on the outer side (you can see it zooming the pics), but most of the table is rather thin (2cm, while they claim is 4cm). Also, they added a couple of C-section iron beams. This makes the table lighter, and I guess also cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the question is, can I safely reproduce this table top with no danger of sagging? The legs of the table are quite in the extreme of the table, and the lack of aprons is a bit intimidating in this regard. More in general, is there a reference for how thick a table should be, like some result from beam theory?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dimensions are 90 x 220 cm (aprox 35 x 85 inches).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9389" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2020-11-11T03:45:53.337" LastActivityDate="2020-11-11T03:45:53.337" Title="thickness table no apron" Tags="|tabletop|table-making|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11202" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11204" CreationDate="2020-11-10T18:11:50.183" Score="0" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to create something similar to a cigar humidor for storing Pu'er tea which requires relatively high humidity and temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the important difference is I would like a wood that has the least amount of smell possible. Humidors are typically lined with Spanish cedar I believe for its fragrance. This is essentially the opposite of what you want for tea, so I am looking for the least &amp;quot;smelly&amp;quot; wood possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My criteria in order of importance would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Least smell&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moisture/Humidity tolerance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cost, being much less important than the first two&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What type of wood would you recommend in this situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9391" LastActivityDate="2020-12-10T23:07:00.780" Title="Looking for the LEAST fragrant wood for storing tea" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11202" CreationDate="2020-11-10T23:02:44.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are going to find that storing anything at 70% RH in a wooden box will tend to suggest wood that has at least some odour. The reason for this is that usually this odour is a result of high oil and/or resin compounds that suppress moulds and maybe even beetle larva, which will be a problem at such high relative humidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, the wood chosen is rather dense, so we can keep the humidity inside the box. This is different from wood used in the kitchen or bathroom or sauna, where we want the wood to be resistant to rot, but also dry out quickly and not hold onto moisture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cedar you mention (which is a misnomer, because it isn't actually cedar or even from a coniferous tree) is chosen because it is relatively close-grained, keeps its oils for a long time, and isn't quite as strong-smelling as other woods used for the same purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the day only you can decide if your tea is too delicate for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm hesitant to suggest that any wood would be appropriate from this if what you want is a neutral smell. Maybe using white oak (a classic &amp;quot;kitchen&amp;quot; wood) for the basic box, and then line it carefully with one of the denser, oilier woods from the tropics. I'm thinking of the ebony-like woods with various names, and things like purpleheart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though, again, these oilier, more resinous woods do have a distinctive scent sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2020-11-10T23:02:44.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11205" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-11T14:13:14.297" Score="0" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;In trying to repurpose 30 year old waterbed frame wood, I decided to turn it into 2x3s but when I cut it, it smells really sappy! I could smell it still hours later. I'm using it for basic support for a work bench (the bottom where wheels will attach) so I'm not concerned about sap leaking but I am concerned I just ruined my dust collector. The saw blade is sticky which I can clean, and the wood that got thrown up the top if the saw was sticky too. Any help would be appreciated as I'm super new to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9396" LastActivityDate="2020-11-12T16:31:12.567" Title="Will sap from wood ruin table saw or dust collector?" Tags="|dust-collection|sap|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11206" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-12T00:36:12.930" Score="1" ViewCount="511" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for some nice rectangular hinges for use on a folding chess board. They need to fold 180 degrees and be flush to the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do that, the knuckle needs to be mortised into the wood along with the leaf. That means the mortise depth is that of the knuckle, leaving the leaf lower than flush and leaving visible about half of the sides of the mortise. I think this does not look very good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any hinges that are designed to avoid this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9397" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-11-13T13:58:58.013" LastActivityDate="2020-11-13T13:58:58.013" Title="Help on choosing box-style hinge for a chess board" Tags="|hinges|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11209" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11210" CreationDate="2020-11-12T17:24:34.497" Score="1" ViewCount="210" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to cut 32 of these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/94QhF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/94QhF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://stackoverflow.com/image.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're 2x8's, each a foot long, with a corner removed.  I'm hoping to cut them safely and efficiently.  I thought about running them across the table saw, maybe 3 or 4 at a time, for the short side of the notch then using a jig saw for the rest but that seems like a slow way to go and I'm not sure it's the safest.  Is there a better way to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first drawing is upside down for its actual use.  Here's how the pieces will be installed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZTGKA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZTGKA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U8H0n.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U8H0n.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fLMTn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fLMTn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9400" LastEditorUserId="9400" LastEditDate="2020-11-13T16:44:52.963" LastActivityDate="2020-11-13T16:44:52.963" Title="Notching and dimensioning a lot of 2x lumber to a specific size" Tags="|table-saw|lumber|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11209" CreationDate="2020-11-12T18:00:40.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of ways to do this, but personally I would do stopped cuts on the table saw.  I would definitely &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; try to stack multiple pieces though.  (If you have access to a high-powered bandsaw that might be a better choice.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the longer rip cut I would use the fence and clamp a stop block to it to prevent overshooting your line.  For the crosscut I'd use a crosscut sled if available or else a miter gauge.  You should also be able to set up a stop block for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll probably need to finish each cut with a jigsaw (or band saw if available) since the circular tablesaw blade won't be able to fully get into the corner without overshooting on one side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you should be aware that the short leg of the L will be fairly weak due to the grain orientation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2020-11-12T18:16:06.767" LastActivityDate="2020-11-12T18:16:06.767" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11211" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-12T20:33:06.803" Score="0" ViewCount="700" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been getting vibration trying to cut a box joint using a 1/2&amp;quot; trim bit. The cut is big since the wood thickness is 1&amp;quot;, the cut is 1&amp;quot; high by 1/2&amp;quot; diameter. Material is ash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I get a smooth cut when I need to hog out such a large amount of material?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2020-11-18T16:30:00.053" Title="Vibration when routing using large bits" Tags="|router|vibration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11211" CreationDate="2020-11-13T14:09:46.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The usual advice for hogging out this kind of joint is to make a jig and use a table saw with a dado set or successive overlapping cuts. The jig would have a movable stop so you can cut the mating sides. This is also the best way to make the throat of the slot relatively square, which you will not get with any ordinary router tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a router would be a little more tricky. Again, I'd build a jig with shims (and a stop), and take successive cuts, removing shims until you are all the way through. I mean, you could hog all of it in one pass, but you won't get very nice edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Care will have to be taken to get the cutting tool RPM right (the bit manufacturer will tell you their recommendations) and maybe make sure any bearings riding on the jig are in good shape. Good bits often have sealed bearings, and consequently high prices. Otherwise you will have to carefully apply light oil to the bearings every so often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are commercial jigs that make cutting the slots/fingers really easy, but there are also DIY plans out there that are probably fine (though I've never used such a jig).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another trick is to use two routers: one hogs out the middle in one pass, making a terrible looking cut but removing most of the waste. then follow that up with your sharpest tool that cuts to your lines, either in one go, or successive cuts. You may be able to get away with a single cleanup &amp;quot;arc&amp;quot; pass, where you have a smaller, faster tool that follows the material edge in a loop so there isn't any climb-cutting. Or you deliberately climb-cut so you get a nicer edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Key here will be testing your setup on some scrap to tune for best results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2020-11-13T14:09:46.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11213" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11216" CreationDate="2020-11-13T22:41:46.430" Score="1" ViewCount="1805" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to buy a 10&amp;quot; table saw and I see that blade RPM is noted on many of the listings. So far, I'm seeing numbers from 3400 RPM to 5000 RPM. I'd imagine that a higher RPM will make a higher pitch noise when cutting, but good hearing protection should help with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond noise level, what impact does the blade RPM have on cutting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2020-11-14T01:23:58.437" LastActivityDate="2020-11-22T15:14:05.563" Title="What's the impact of blade RPM on a table saw?" Tags="|table-saw|power-tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11214" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11215" CreationDate="2020-11-14T06:31:14.873" Score="1" ViewCount="936" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am only starting woodworking and in several books I read that woodworking is all about prevent final product from damage of season temperature and  humidity changes. So it means that to glue the bottom of the box is “the biggest evil in the world”. In the same time some famous woodworkers, like Paul Sellers, glue up the bottom of the box. I something misunderstanding or why in some cases bottom of the box can be glue up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9406" LastActivityDate="2020-11-14T09:33:25.477" Title="Why glue the bottom of the box" Tags="|glue|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11214" CreationDate="2020-11-14T09:33:25.477" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is one of those things where it's partly a matter of usage — the scale of the piece, the weight it needs to hold, how rough-and-tumble the expected end use will be — but the most important issue is probably whether the bottom is solid wood or a manmade board of some kind. So the specifics matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you know, all solid-wood elements expand and contract naturally with changes in humidity, and a bottom in solid wood can expand in width during the wettest part of the year which will try to force the box apart. In the worst-case scenario it could succeed by the way, especially if the box uses unreinforced mitre joints which are the weakest joint in woodworking&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But expansion and contraction is related to the cut of the board (flat-sawn versus rift-sawn or quarter-sawn), the species used and a couple of other factors. Plus, as it's a fixed percentage the width of the piece matters. So, just like with smaller tabletops, &lt;em&gt;you can often get away with ignoring wood movement if the piece is small enough&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With bottoms made of ply, MDF or HDF though, they are dimensionally stable enough that &lt;em&gt;no movement needs to be allowed for at almost any scale&lt;/em&gt;. So in short, it's always safe to glue the bottom if it's any of those materials (or if you'd used plastic or metal, in case that's ever something you choose to do).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So, why glue the bottom of a box?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;To add strength, if needed. That's it in a nutshell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where the bottom is not needed as a structural element, as in most small boxes made for a semi-decorative purpose&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, you can easily get away with leaving the bottom to float in a groove. Obviously the box &lt;em&gt;would&lt;/em&gt; be stronger if the bottom were glued in place, ditto if it's a mitred box having the corner joints reinforced in some way, however in real-world use neither is needed in many cases. Which is why so many boxes are built this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Especially as commonly done these days, without sizing the end-grain surfaces prior to the final glue-up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; I'd include many jewellery or watch boxes in this description, although obviously they are made to be used they're very much intended as beautiful decorative objects too in a lot of cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-11-14T09:33:25.477" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11213" CreationDate="2020-11-14T11:02:36.430" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Higher RPMs will also make better cuts, and extend the blade life, if the commercial cutting industry is to be believed. Many commercial lumberyards like to run their cutters between 10,000 and 18,000 surface feet per minute (SFPM). 18,000 would be a maximum ceiling, so they often aim for 15,000 SFPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diameter * Pi * RPM / 12 = SFPM&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 10 inches and 5000 RPM we get something like 13,000 SFPM. At 3400 RPM we get 8900 SFPM, which might be too slow for most materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how this would affect blade life and cut quality in the home shop, but I'd assume a modest amount at or over 10,000 SPFM is what you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, these SFPMs might be about maximizing speeds and feeds, and it's not like lower RPMs are going to ruin anything as long as we reach a minimum. Almost certainly the SFPMs back in the water- or stream-driven days were lower. But there is definitely a sweet spot, which certainly drove the need for larger diameter blades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But these are the typical SFPMs for carbide cutters. At the end of the day the max RPM at 10in is probably not the deciding factor for a new table saw. Things like build quality, motor quality, drive train reliability, and (most of all, at least for me) quality of the fences and guards. I'd take a lower RPM, better built, more easily serviced, and with a good selection of guides and jigs (or easy to adapt for home made guides and jigs) model over something that screams faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not like we should be in that much of a hurry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-11-22T15:14:05.563" LastActivityDate="2020-11-22T15:14:05.563" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11217" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-14T19:51:28.833" Score="0" ViewCount="153" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am refinishing an antique interior door for our bedroom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I scraped off the old varnish type finish, maybe shellac, and sanded to bare wood (220 grit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I applied oil based &amp;quot;Old Masters&amp;quot; semi-transparent stain, wiped off the excess and let dry for 3 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then when I applied the first coat of &amp;quot;Formby's&amp;quot; Tung Oil Finish the stain seemed to liquify and wipe off onto the rag I was using to wipe off excess tung oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me why the dry stain lifted?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9409" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2020-11-16T22:32:09.933" LastActivityDate="2021-08-14T11:04:25.523" Title="Stain lifting when refinishing antique maple door" Tags="|refinishing|tung-oil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11219" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-16T06:04:17.903" Score="0" ViewCount="925" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a couple of boards that I jointed the edges on, thinking them to be parallel. But, after re-measuring it appears the edges were not parallel (or maybe the jointer took more wood off at one end?). So in both cases I have one end which is 6&amp;quot; wide and the other end which is 6-1/8&amp;quot; wide over about 2 feet. So, I need to square up both pieces, and ideally leave the existing 6&amp;quot; edge untouched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not about to try to put the boards edge-wise through my planar, so that leaves two options: use the table saw or the router table. Which tool would be the better choice, or does it matter? Is there a good way to reliably trim off the small tapering strip I need to remove?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2020-11-16T15:54:21.007" LastActivityDate="2020-11-18T23:51:12.480" Title="Make parallel edges with router table or table saw?" Tags="|milling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11219" CreationDate="2020-11-16T21:57:31.917" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should do this with the table saw.  This is a very typical operation in the normal milling process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally you would set the table saw's rip fence to the final width you need, but in this case, since you want to match an existing dimension you should ignore the numbers and use the physical dimension you want to set the fence.  Put the board just ahead of the blade, so that there is just a bit of overlap with the blade with the narrower side of the board forwards.  Move the fence until the edge is just brushing against one of the teeth (preferably a tooth with the tall side closer to the fence.)  Lock the fence down and run the board through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Safety Note, any time you're working close to the blade the saw should be unplugged.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think your issue came about because you jointed both edges of your board.  This should never normally be done, since, as you've seen, this will not ensure that the two edges will be parallel.  Here is the typical milling process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Face-joint one face so that it is flat on the jointer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make the other face parallel to the first face on the planer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alternate planing both faces until the board is the desired&#xA;thickness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Edge-joint one edge so that it is perpendicular to the faces with&#xA;the fence on the jointer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rip the board to final width on the table saw, which will ensure that the&#xA;second edge is square to the faces (since the blade is not tilted)&#xA;and parallel to the first edge (since the rip fence is a fixed&#xA;distance from the blade).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, using a router table to do this is not the best idea because it would require you to &amp;quot;pinch&amp;quot; the workpiece between the bit and the fence.  This is a bad situation because it sets you up for stalling or kickback.  (Note that offset fences and a straight bit aligned with the outfeed side won't work here, because it will cause the same issue that the jointer did.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2020-11-18T23:51:12.480" LastActivityDate="2020-11-18T23:51:12.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11217" CreationDate="2020-11-17T06:44:00.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Formby's were&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; rather infamous for their &amp;quot;Tung Oil Finish&amp;quot; because it isn't tung oil and actually never contained any. It's a cornerstone example of how product names in the wood-finish market are unregulated and can be very misleading!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Tung Oil Finish&amp;quot; is instead a product very similar to (or identical to) what other manufacturers sell as &amp;quot;Danish oil&amp;quot; — a simple blend of oil and varnish, with added solvent to make it thinner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it's the solvent component that is likely the main culprit here as any product with some solvent in it&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; can redissolve partly dried oil-based products that were applied previously. While you let the stain dry for 3 days even in warm and dry conditions this might not be long enough for complete 'drying' (i.e. &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/884/what-is-the-difference-between-curing-and-drying&quot;&gt;curing&lt;/a&gt;). Curing takes considerably longer than the touch-dry time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if the door is indeed maple this is a dense, close-grained wood that doesn't absorb stains well. So it's likely to be contributing to the problem as some or a lot of the Old Masters stain may simply be sitting on the surface of the wood, readily wiped off. If you didn't thoroughly remove the excess as per the applications guidelines&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; you could find that even wiping with a dry cloth could noticeably colour the rag or paper towel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Now Minwax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; And there's more than 50% in &amp;quot;Tung Oil Finish&amp;quot;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; E.g. &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;Before the stain dries, wipe off excess stain with a soft cloth, first across the grain, then with the grain.&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-11-17T06:44:00.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11211" CreationDate="2020-11-18T16:30:00.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think vibration you're getting is a combination of factors. Most trim bits are straight bits and straight bits tend to vibrate more, specially when engaged for their full length. You're also trying to move a lot of relatively hard wood, so your feed rate is important. Using a spiral bit and feeding slow and easy should help. Also, hogging the bulk of waste with something else will help tremendously, either cutting waste on a bandsaw\jigsaw or even roughly kerfing it on a table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9049" LastActivityDate="2020-11-18T16:30:00.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11224" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-19T18:34:50.060" Score="0" ViewCount="821" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a solid old Craftsman 12&amp;quot; bandsaw and it works great for most things. But I've been trying to use it to mill small logs into boards and having a really hard time making a straight cut, because the blade bends. I'll try to push an outer arc of, say, a 4&amp;quot; diameter log through the blade, but instead of staying in the plane of its rotation, the blade bends sideways into the wood and makes a mess of the cut. This happens even if I screw the irregular log to a regular piece of lumber running along the fence, so I can ensure a straight pass through the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the tension on the blade is high enough. I guess maybe the blades are too thin for this, but I'm not sure if that's the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could I be missing here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4640" LastActivityDate="2020-11-19T20:09:51.337" Title="How to keep bandsaw blade from bending" Tags="|band-saw|milling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11226" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-19T19:00:33.300" Score="0" ViewCount="2374" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to purchase some unfinished ash strip wood for some interior decorative purposes. The retailer advised that whilst it is 'ready to use' (in reference to the wood having been planed etc), it is still bare wood and thus could be prone to warping, e.g. twisting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have I understood it right that such warping is caused by the moisture leaving and entering the wood? With this in mind, would I be right in saying that I could mitigate the issue by applying varnish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am also looking to apply a wood stain beforehand. Would this be a variable that could affect any tendency to warp?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8486" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-11-24T08:19:15.927" LastActivityDate="2021-08-21T10:06:10.500" Title="Will varnish stop bare wood from warping?" Tags="|finishing|staining|warp|varnish|bowing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11224" CreationDate="2020-11-19T20:09:51.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your blade might be too fine, you would need a fairly coarse blade around 6 TPI. Even a sharp blade but with relatively fine teeth will have troubles re-sawing because gullets get packed with sawdust. Also a slow feed rate really helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9049" LastActivityDate="2020-11-19T20:09:51.337" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11226" CreationDate="2020-11-19T21:34:45.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Varnish will likely &lt;em&gt;help&lt;/em&gt; but it won't completely negate issues with warping and twisting. There are many other things you can do to help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are correct in that the key to stopping wood from warping is stopping moisture from leaving or entering the wood too quickly - wood shrinks around 1% in its width for every 3% change in moisture content (IIRC) and moisture leaves through the end-grain around ten times faster than it does from the sides of a board. Drying (or increasing in moisture content) unevenly will cause one part of the wood to shrink faster than another which causes warping. Therefore, one of the largest differences you can make to the stability of wood (short of something like chemical modification of the wood e.g. acetylation - not practical in a home setup) is to seal the end-grain - varnish or paint is not enough - you will get the best results from a purpose-made end-grain sealer which is usually applied as a separate operation before finishing with a paint or varnish. Again this seal will not completely stop moisture transit (there is some very tiny amount of evaporation even through a sealed glass container, after all) but it will do a great deal to &lt;em&gt;slow&lt;/em&gt; it and this is what we want - nice gradual adjustment - which helps it to be more uniform across the piece also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, be careful about how you machine the wood. The surfaces of a piece will always be a bit drier than the inside, unless the wood has been in a stable environment of temperature and humidity for a very long time. If you are to plane or cut the wood down in thickness or width then you should try to take an even amount off of each side, otherwise you can cause uneven drying of what were the inner parts of the timber (which have now become the surface), which may cause cupping, twisting etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly if you cut grooves into a piece it may lead to cupping (the groove will typically want to close up as the new surfaces dry and shrink) - I don't know that there's too much you can do about this but if you machine a groove, knock a few blocks the same size as the groove in, every few inches, and allow the wood to adjust in moisture again, with the blocks in place, slowly, before removing the blocks and continuing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're able to allow the wood to acclimatise to its end-use environment, slowly, before processing, and then you're able to keep that environment at a stable temperature and humidity when the end product is in use, this will help with stability. Just by virtue of being used internally, rather than externally and exposed to the elements, the wood will be more stable (assuming that your interior environment is at least somewhat controlled in temperature and humidity).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing you can do (but is dependent on your usage) is to laminate many timbers together with glue - again this will typically increase stability, through the averaging out of defects and twisting/warping forces, but will not always completely solve the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make it even more complicated, the type of cut (as in, how your board was cut from a log) will alter its stability characteristics, as will other things like how the grain is (straight, wavy, interlocked, etc.) so it can be a real minefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in summary it's really a combination of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How the timber was cut from the log.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;General characteristics of the grain etc. of the wood.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How the timber was dried from the mill (how quickly, to what moisture content etc.).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How it has been machined after drying.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How it has been sealed, particularly the end-grain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Service conditions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, a stain or other finish will not cause much in the way of warping - so long as you apply in a thin coat (as opposed to say, dipping and soaking the timber!) and have sufficient warmth and airflow, it will (substantially, if not completely) dry within a few hours and the wood will not uptake a significant amount of moisture from it in this time. Don't be tempted to use a high heat to dry your stain or varnish more quickly - this can cause more problems than it solves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2020-11-19T21:34:45.560" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11229" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-20T00:59:36.623" Score="1" ViewCount="158" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some beautiful wormy maple barn doors that I want to finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried Minwax oil-modified polyurethane clear satin and tung oil separately on a small corner and both turned the wood slightly orange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm almost tempted to put nothing on them, but I was hoping to add a satin finish that would enhance the natural colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9432" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-11-20T09:21:53.960" LastActivityDate="2020-11-20T19:02:04.190" Title="How do I keep the natural colour on wormy maple?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11230" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11235" CreationDate="2020-11-20T01:39:50.840" Score="1" ViewCount="2059" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bracket in the first image is holding a frame onto the bottom of a (Stiga) table tennis table. The other one (and some others) have broken off the table. I need to repair the chipboard as shown in the second image. How can I repair this so that the screw does not break out again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The table tennis top is 5/8&amp;quot; thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that the top (the chipboard) is beginning to warp which is pulling it away from the frame and causing these screws to come out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aeTCc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aeTCc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;working&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EgOwd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EgOwd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;broken&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4559" LastActivityDate="2020-11-23T15:26:34.573" Title="How do I repair chipboard for screws?" Tags="|wood-repair|wood-movement|chipboard|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11230" CreationDate="2020-11-20T15:13:19.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One option you have is to drill out a suitably sized hole for a threaded insert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M9wcI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M9wcI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;threaded insert&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above image is from &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00HYM04T4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;, but many sources will have this type or similar inserts. You'd have to switch your screws to machine screws and ensure to match the insert to the desired thread size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2020-11-20T15:13:19.127" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4211" CreationDate="2020-11-20T17:15:21.647" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After fighting with the most stubborn unable to budge bit, I eventually freed it, basically using brute strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then decided to try and ensure that I don't have the same problem again. What I did was to grind two flats on each of my router bits. I used my Dremel fitted with a carborundum grinding bit. You must ensure that flats are parallel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I now use a shifting wrench to work out any stubborn bits, and so far it has worked satisfactory. As a shifting spanner is quite bulky and doesn't leave to much working space, so I measured an open ended spanner and ground shank to fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9434" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-11-21T14:13:42.667" LastActivityDate="2020-11-21T14:13:42.667" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11230" CreationDate="2020-11-20T18:58:16.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drill out the blown out screw holes with a 3/8ths drill bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use wood glue to glue in some short pieces of 3/8ths dowels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a flush cut saw or oscillating saw to cut off the excess dowel and sand smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you can drill new pilot holes for your screws&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2917" LastActivityDate="2020-11-20T18:58:16.457" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11230" CreationDate="2020-11-21T09:39:01.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be able to make a long-lasting, possibly permanent, repair to this using filled epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As outlined in previous Answers, you can mix epoxy with nearly any dust to make it a thicker and ultimately stronger material (as well as to modify its working characteristics, e.g. with the addition of talc to improve sandability).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally when filling epoxy you just use fine powders. However in this case a mixture of wood dust and coarser stuff, but no large flakes, may give the best results. A mixture of particle sizes results in an 'aggregate' system (similar to concrete) which gives a stronger material than if just dust (or sand alone) would produce.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because you're using 5-min epoxy as clarified in the Comments, I would suggest doing perhaps two of the divots at a time, so you don't run the risk of trying to work with epoxy that has begun to set up. If you find it necessary do the holes one at a time, there's no downside other than the tedium!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the epoxy, wood dusts and a mixing tool&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; you also want a drill and to have a hair dryer/heat gun on hand if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the entire procedure outlined:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;drill out the ragged holes to make larger, more-easily-filled holes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blow out all loose material with compressed air or through a straw/empty ballpoint tube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pre-mix your wood dust and any coarser stuff into a single pile so you can add it into the already mixed epoxy without wasting time; you will be under the clock every time you mix.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat the hole or holes — &lt;em&gt;not the epoxy&lt;/em&gt; — well with the hair dryer or heat gun.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mix a small batch of your epoxy, but before you blend with your powders quickly add a small amount to the hole. You'll see that the epoxy will liquefy noticeably when it contacts the heated wood, and more easily soak into the chipboard. Then blend epoxy and wood dusts to a 'stiff batter' consistency approximately — you want something less than a stiff paste; still slightly fluid and able to drip off the end of your application tools.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When all the holes are filled now you wait much longer than you're expecting for the epoxy to fully cure. I would suggest waiting at least overnight (yes, even with 5-minute epoxy&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mark the positions for the screws and then drill your pilot holes as normal for solid wood, then carefully drive the screws home. I would strongly recommend not power-driving them, unless you have absolute confidence in the clutch on your driver. This is just a few small screws, do them by hand and don't Popeye them&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can aim to fill each divot flush by using just the right amount of filler each time but this is a tricky thing to judge. I think it's a better idea to slightly overfill, then flush after setting using a block plane, careful sanding or filing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Note that you'll probably want a stronger mixing paddle than you typically use for straight epoxy (such as the small plastic one included in many epoxy packets). Filled epoxy is much stiffer and harder to manipulate, especially at the consistency you're aiming for here to hold screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; While the packaging of 5-min epoxies may typically state they're cured in an hour the small print may go on to specify that it takes 12 or 16 hours to reach full bond strength at e.g. 24°C (75°F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; By this I mean resist the temptation to go &amp;quot;one grunt past tight&amp;quot; :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-11-21T09:39:01.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11230" CreationDate="2020-11-21T13:35:19.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of trying to fix the existing holes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Move the bracket 6 inches&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; left or right, screwing into fresh particle board, leaving the old holes as lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider using threaded inserts as described in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/11231/93&quot;&gt;Fred's answer&lt;/a&gt; specifically designed for use in particle board, then replace the wood screws with appropriate machine screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't try to put a new pair of holes between the existing sets - it will be more likely to break out again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;Or more than a half bracket's width if 6&amp;quot; seems too far from where support is needed. You don't want the new holes ending up too close to the blown out edges of the old ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2020-11-23T15:26:34.573" LastActivityDate="2020-11-23T15:26:34.573" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11237" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-22T05:03:57.867" Score="1" ViewCount="123" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m relatively new to fine woodworking and I’m building something that needs a color/finish like &lt;a href=&quot;https://ibb.co/SXY2Dzc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this piece&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what kind of wood, stain, etc this might be or what I could use to mimic it? The wood is a relatively grainless looking wood from that picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Originally I was thinking of using poplar because it’s cheap and I have a bunch laying around but I’m not so sure that would produce a similar look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8079" LastActivityDate="2020-11-27T17:44:50.913" Title="What type of wood can I use to achieve this finish?" Tags="|wood-selection|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11238" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11239" CreationDate="2020-11-22T16:08:10.743" Score="6" ViewCount="5450" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone recognise the tool on the photos below?&#xA;Recently I’ve bought a set of old auger bits on eBay and among them was that tool. I de-rusted it, but have no idea what do use it for :)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rop8v.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rop8v.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;what is it?&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9438" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-11-22T16:55:45.997" LastActivityDate="2020-11-23T23:33:11.780" Title="Unknown tool from auger bits set" Tags="|hand-tools|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11238" CreationDate="2020-11-22T18:56:55.933" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's a screwdriver bit. At the time this was made slot-head screws were pretty much all there were and being able to use your brace to drive larger screws saved space in a travelling toolkit. Plus I'm sure the bit cost less than a hardwood-handled turnscrew from any reputable maker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And anyway, braces are quite simply excellent screw-drivers — you could quite easily insert larger screws into hard wood with your brace that you'd struggle to get even halfway home with a full-sized turnscrew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Surprisingly, still a good option&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Nothing has changed, they're still great at driving screws because of the large amounts of torque they can generate (almost unlimited once you go to sweeps 10&amp;quot; and above).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For situations where a cordless driver is a bit too wimpy, or where power is not available, braces aren't just a viable choice for driving screws they're arguably &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; choice. And this does extend to modern screws such as Allen, Pozi, Robertson and Torx. The commonest chuck type, with two jaws, can usually grip hex shafts well enough that they don't slip (unless the jaws are quite worn) so for many or most vintage braces you don't even need an adaptor* to work with the replaceable screwdriver bits of today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Although a few are made if one wanted to reduce wear on the chuck jaws. Honestly though, you'd have to be driving a heck of a lot of screws or bolts for this to be an issue...... and where I live ratchet braces in working condition can be found for less than the price of the cheapest adaptor!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-11-23T09:07:57.140" LastActivityDate="2020-11-23T09:07:57.140" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2442" CreationDate="2020-11-23T16:23:51.590" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use (with permission) my husbands metal lathe to turn my projects. We just created a tool rest and mounted it. It has adjustable speed. Works fine. Was easier on the hip pocket than buying a wood lathe plus we don't have room for both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9444" LastActivityDate="2020-11-23T16:23:51.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2442" CreationDate="2020-11-23T18:47:41.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering why metal lathes aren't used for turning. In particular I'm wondering why woodturners don't use a tool holder on a stage or tools that resemble metal lathe tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sometimes they do&lt;/strong&gt;, when precision is important. There are various specialized tools for forming balls or cutting several nested bowl blanks out of a single piece of stock, for example. There are also pattern lathes that cut one or more identical parts using tools that are guided by a pattern, and that's often what you'd find in a factory environment. And sometimes people even cut wood on a (gasp!) metal lathe, either because that's what they have at hand, or because they want the precision and features (e.g. thread cutting) that that machine affords.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But more often than not, wooden turned objects don't depend on the precision of a metal lathe. Do you care if your bowl is too large or small by 0.125&amp;quot;? If the legs on your table are imperceptibly different? If the tops of two turned boxes aren't interchangeable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the advantage to manually holding your tools and using a tool rest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Speed:&lt;/strong&gt; Watch some videos of professional wood turners and you might be impressed at how quickly they turn a square blank into a finished object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Adaptability:&lt;/strong&gt; Wood isn't homogeneous to the degree that metal is. Wood has grain direction and figure, and often defects too, and turners take those into account as they decide how to position the tool to get the best result. Turners often use a single gouge for most of their work, but they'll turn it this way or that to use different parts of the edge in different orientations and from different angles. Watch somebody turn a small bowl and count the number of times they change the orientation of the tool; doing that on a metal lathe would take forever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Freedom:&lt;/strong&gt; Part of the fun of wood turning is that you can create the form as you work. Turning metal is often a matter of creating a part to exactly specifications. Turning wood can be more like sculpting, where you don't necessarily know exactly what you're going to end up with until you're done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without knowing much about woodturning I would assume that it's next to impossible to get repeatable/super accurate results&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's not necessarily true. Wood turners might not ever get into the kind of precision that machinists do, but you can get fairly repeatable results just by checking your results against a pattern, or by test fitting. Box lids often need to fit tightly, and with a little practice it's not hard to fine-tune either the lid or the box so that the fit is just right. Another example: wood turners often make &amp;quot;jam chucks&amp;quot; in which a portion of a wooden chuck is turned to a friction fit that'll hold a part tightly enough that it can be turned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2020-11-23T18:47:41.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11243" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11246" CreationDate="2020-11-24T21:23:24.500" Score="1" ViewCount="942" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wanting to perform some mitre 45 degree cuts with my router table as my cheapo mitre saw doesn't have a straight fence (&lt;em&gt;sad noises&lt;/em&gt;); so I've been looking for a chamfer bit that is large enough to perform mitre cuts on my thicker than normal pine stock - I believe it is 22mm thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the youtube videos I've watched it seems that the &lt;strong&gt;45 degree heavy duty chamfer bit 36-950&lt;/strong&gt; from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.infinitytools.co.uk/router-bits/chamfer-bit/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Infinity Tools&lt;/a&gt; is the go to bit for this sort of job, however it also appears that this only comes in 1/2 inch shank :-(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just wondering if there is a bit out there that I have not seen that can do something similar, or can I accomplish the mitre cut with a smaller, standard sized chamfer bit that I already own (with bearing)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8149" LastActivityDate="2023-09-07T19:59:00.583" Title="Large 1/4 inch 45 degree chamfer router bit for cutting mitres" Tags="|router|router-bit|router-table|mitre|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11244" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-24T21:41:27.480" Score="0" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;We built Montessori curvy plywood balance boards. They are 36&amp;quot; x 11&amp;quot; deep by 3/4&amp;quot; thick. They are made of 3 layers of maple veneer plywood. I'm unsure of the exact classification of the plywood as I purchased it a few months ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These balance boards are glued together and bent over a form. We have tested them with adults around 180lbs with no issue. But parents would like to know the weight capacity before purchasing and I'm unsure of how to get an accurate estimation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/woQc6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/woQc6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9452" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-05-25T19:30:50.820" LastActivityDate="2021-05-25T19:30:50.820" Title="Weight capacity for 3/4&quot; plywood curvy board" Tags="|plywood|weight-capacity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11243" CreationDate="2020-11-24T23:18:13.810" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it also appears that this only comes in 1/2 inch shank&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 45° cutter that's large enough to cut the full 22mm thickness of your work will have to be &lt;em&gt;at least&lt;/em&gt; 44mm in diameter, plus the diameter of the shaft, for a total of 51mm or more. You wouldn't want a sharpened chunk of metal that large spinning at 10,000rpm or more on a 1/4&amp;quot; shank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just wondering if there is a bit out there that I have not seen that can do something similar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most router bits meant for making miter joints are actually lock miter bits, which doesn't sound like what you want. And I've never seen one with a shank smaller than 1/2&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;can I accomplish the mitre cut with a smaller, standard sized chamfer bit that I already own (with bearing)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. It'd be very difficult to cut an accurate miter joint in multiple passes with a small 45° bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wanting to perform some mitre 45 degree cuts with my router table as my cheapo mitre saw doesn't have a straight fence&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you do anything to fix that? Maybe make replacement fences from plywood? That'd be far preferable to trying to use a router that's not up to the task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2020-11-24T23:18:13.810" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11243" CreationDate="2020-11-25T06:26:16.110" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the youtube videos I've watched it seems that the 45 degree heavy duty chamfer bit 36-950 from Infinity Tools is the go to bit for this sort of job, however it also appears that this only comes in 1/2 inch shank :-(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the cutter approaches or exceeds the cost of a new router (and perhaps it's worth mentioning that routers litter the secondhand-tool market) some would argue that the maths becomes very simple.... assuming space isn't so tight that you couldn't squeeze another router into the workshop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Approach the problem from a different direction&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Straight bit, angled workpiece. Standard way in some workshops to machine mitres, and not just with a router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making a jig for any given mitre is straightforward (or take a bit more time and make a fancy one, adjustable for all conceivable angles) and then you only have to buy straight bits to cover almost all the work you'd do on board ends, from basic shooting to tenon forming and mitre cutting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-11-25T06:26:16.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11247" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11267" CreationDate="2020-11-25T23:33:11.603" Score="0" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am about to start assembling a box&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aqxYt.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aqxYt.png&quot; alt=&quot;box, assembled&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to stow away items that otherwise overrun a desk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2OybP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2OybP.png&quot; alt=&quot;many pens&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The box arrives in small pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sosED.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sosED.png&quot; alt=&quot;box in pieces&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before assembling, I'd like to apply some sealant so that it stays clean for some time, even if an uncovered pen here or there touches the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm proceeding with elimination. The first three options are out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Linseed oil: I've found out that it produces a rather unpleasant smell that lasts for months.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tung oil: No experience, but the smell reportedly lingers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Water-based) polyurethane: would be ideal, but it's overkill for this simple project. Every little piece would have to be held somehow while I brush poly on. Polyurethane works better on large surfaces: table tops, floors, ...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The remaining options are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mixture of (extra-virgin?) olive oil + fresh lemon (ratio 2:1). This seems a bit arcane. Might that be the right solution for this project?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shellac in crystals, to be dissolved in alcohol. If a felt pen is left open against the wall, will shellac really stop the wood absorbing all the ink?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Danish oil: I know too little about it. Is that an easy-to-use sealant?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Color-wise, I'm happy if it gets a yellow patina right away from the oil, or over time. Just so long as it doesn't get stained with dirt too soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware there are already far too many questions here and a huge amount of information on various sites advising on the merits of one oil/sealant or another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which sealant would you use for this particular project?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9462" OwnerDisplayName="Sam" LastActivityDate="2020-11-30T22:59:50.743" Title="Sealant recommendation for pen-holding box" Tags="|polyurethane|shellac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11248" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11250" CreationDate="2020-11-26T11:40:54.480" Score="1" ViewCount="639" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm following the book &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.makershed.com/products/make-tools&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tools - by Charles Platt&lt;/a&gt; where he suggests that it is really important to use a cork-backed steel ruler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to make a cork backed steel ruler as I'm not getting one on any online store where I'm living in India. I have a steel ruler - and I can perhaps get a cork sheet online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the thickness of the cork sheet I should buy?&#xA;What kind of glue should I use to stick the cork sheet to the steel ruler?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other things that I should keep in mind while making this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9443" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2020-11-27T16:58:03.220" LastActivityDate="2020-11-30T18:31:41.013" Title="How to make a cork backed steel ruler?" Tags="|tools|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11249" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-27T10:00:35.473" Score="0" ViewCount="2836" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Scheppach mitre saw and have been using it for a few years.&#xA;Recently I noticed it's began sticking (stop cutting) whilst cutting and I have to raise the blade and have several attempts to finish the cut. I am only cutting pine wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first I thought the the blade sounded like it may be loose so I tried tightening it but no joy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have put in new brushes and yesterday tried new inner and outer flanges al to no avail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone offer me any solutions please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9472" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2020-11-27T13:47:18.257" LastActivityDate="2020-12-30T17:06:40.763" Title="Why does my blade gets stuck in the wood while cutting?" Tags="|miter-saw|mitre|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11248" CreationDate="2020-11-27T16:42:57.020" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm following the book Tools - by Chris Platt where he suggests that it is really important to use a cork-backed steel ruler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an 18&amp;quot; cork-backed steel ruler, and also a 6&amp;quot; one. The cork is maybe 1/16&amp;quot; thick, and it does help prevent the ruler from sliding around on slippery surfaces. Wood, however, is not a particularly slippery surface, and steel rulers don't tend to slide around on it. In fact, if I'm using one of those cork-backed rulers as a straight edge, I tend to turn it over so that the steel face is against the wood, and slipping is never a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The book you're looking at isn't a woodworking book -- it's broader than that. Charles Platt is a pretty reliable source, but I think you have to take his suggestion that a cork backed ruler is &amp;quot;more important than it sounds&amp;quot; in the context of someone who works with a wider variety of materials, not just wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're mainly doing woodworking, I wouldn't worry for a millisecond about the lack of cork backing on your ruler. And no matter what materials you're using, don't get too caught up in having exactly what someone else says is the right collection of tools. If you don't have a cork-backed ruler and your ruler keeps slipping on a surface like sheet metal, just stick a piece of duct tape, gaffer's tape, friction tape, etc. on the back. Call it a &amp;quot;life hack&amp;quot; if you like. ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being a &amp;quot;maker&amp;quot; is all about finding ways to create what you want using what you have. Consider Platt's advice and the reasons behind it, but don't get caught up in assembling &lt;em&gt;his&lt;/em&gt; perfect list of tools, because &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; are not &lt;em&gt;him&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, you asked about &lt;em&gt;how&lt;/em&gt; to make a cork-backed ruler. If you have some very thin cork sheet and a steel ruler, then all you need to do is to cut a piece that's about 1/4&amp;quot; shorter and 1/4&amp;quot; narrower than the ruler you're using, and stick the cork to the ruler. You can use a spray adhesive like 3M 77 or 3M 90, contact cement, or even thin carpet tape or other double-sided tape. I'd stay away from PVA (wood) glue or epoxy, as those are both likely to soak into the cork and harden it, which would defeat the purpose of using cork in the first place. Try to make sure that the whole surface of the cork adheres to the ruler (so that particles don't later get between the cork and ruler).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the US, you can find thin cork sold as &lt;a href=&quot;https://con-tactbrand.com/products/cork-non-adhesive&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;non-adhesive&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://con-tactbrand.com/products/copy-of-con-tact%C2%AE-brand-cork-adhesive&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;self-adhesive&lt;/a&gt; contact paper, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lowes.com/pd/Duck-20-in-x-4-ft-Cork-Shelf-Liner/1000310135&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;shelf liner&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00T59NFRM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tape&lt;/a&gt;. Check craft stores and home improvement stores. Also, you might want to look more carefully for cork-backed rulers; I think you said that you're in India, and a search for &amp;quot;cork ruler&amp;quot; on amazon.in turns up a number of options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a separate question - but - there is a recommendation that says &amp;quot;The countersink must have only one flute and must be ½&amp;quot; diameter.&amp;quot; ... what's up with that - the most commonly available ones on amazon are 5 flute ones&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We had a recent question (&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/q/2986/492&quot;&gt;Why is my countersink bit making hexagonal holes?&lt;/a&gt;) about countersinks; the reason Platt wants you to get one with a single flute is to help a beginner avoid problems like the hexagonal holes that result from chatter when used with a handheld drill. He's similarly prescriptive in &lt;em&gt;Make: Electronics&lt;/em&gt; where he tells you that your multimeter &amp;quot;must&amp;quot; be digital. He's not expressing a strong opinion; it's just that the book is written with the expectation of a digital meter, and analog meters don't afford the needed resolution. Platt's books are easy to follow, and part of the reason for that is that he sets you up to avoid some of the problems that beginners often run into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2020-11-30T18:31:41.013" LastActivityDate="2020-11-30T18:31:41.013" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11237" CreationDate="2020-11-27T17:44:50.913" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what kind of wood, stain, etc this might be&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wayfair.com/furniture/pdp/three-posts-adcock-2-drawer-nightstand-in-brown-cherry-w004051198.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;web page for that piece&lt;/a&gt; tells us that it's made of &amp;quot;Solid + Manufactured Wood&amp;quot; using &amp;quot;Okume veneer, wood and engineered wood.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or what I could use to mimic it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The piece appears to be heavily stained or glazed, so there's not a lot of grain showing. If you're going to do try to match that, then it probably won't matter much which closed-grain hardwood you choose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Matching an existing finish can be tricky, so you'll probably need to experiment some. Pick the wood that you're going to use, and then make up some samples so that you can try different options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2020-11-27T17:44:50.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11249" CreationDate="2020-11-27T18:34:31.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently I noticed it's began sticking (stop cutting) whilst cutting and I have to raise the blade and have several attempts to finish the cut. I am only cutting pine wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the blade is either extremely dirty, or very dull, or both. A new blade is probably the fix you need, but you could try cleaning the one you have first to see if that helps. Pine is notorious for the pitch it contains, which builds up on saw blade teeth over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first I thought the the blade sounded like it may be loose so I tried tightening it but no joy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be easy to tell whether the blade is slipping or not: if the blade is loose, then you'll hear the motor continue to run even as the blade is stuck. If that's happening, then you definitely do need to tighten the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More likely, though, the blade is stopping because the motor can't turn it due to dull and/or dirty teeth. Other, less likely possibilities are that the motor is somehow damaged and no longer provides the same power, or that not enough current is being supplied to the motor. If you're using an extension cord to connect the saw, try removing that and plugging the saw directly into the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2020-11-27T18:34:31.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11253" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-28T19:57:58.140" Score="0" ViewCount="318" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on a project that has three 2x12’s supporting a load of 12,000 lbs. similar, but not exactly, to how joists support a house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 2x12’s are supporting about 6,000 lbs. on each end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The three 2x12’s are:&#xA;a) Each cut to 90in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b) The load takes up 24in. from each end of the 2x12’s leaving 42in. of free space in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;c) The three 2x12’s are spaced parallel to each other, with one 2x12 being 24in. in front of the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;d) The 6,000lb. (On each side) load is laying on a thick wooden plank (on each end) that is perpendicular to the three 2x12’s. Similar to this picture (I don't know if it will show up in the post) &amp;quot;J&amp;quot; is the joist but in this picture there are 4 joists.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hSix2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hSix2.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e) The two thick wooden planks on each end of 2x12’s (mentioned in “d”) is securely fastened to the 1.5in. part of the 2x12’s, as well as having blocking and other bolted wooden members that leaves (as stated in “b”) 42 in. Of free space in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;f) The three 2x12’s are only 12in. off the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything is stable and strong without any issues except for one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to lift this so that it is 14in. off the ground (lifting it 2 in. in total).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Removing the load; as well as dissembling is not an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will have to be lifted with the three 2x12’s and everything above (including load) remaining intact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My best option is to lift (with a hydraulic jack) the front most 2x12 to 14in. and then lift the back most 2x12 to 14in. -I’ve done this before with no problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only problem, that I have now, is that directly under the 2x12 is things that I can not remove and is not strong enough jack it from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The saddle of the jack is 2-3/4in. All wood is Kiln-Dried Douglas Fir #2 or better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan is to grade 8 bolt a 4x4 cut to 7in. directly in the middle of the free space, mentioned in “b”; plus having the 4x4 cut to 7in. will provide more of a direct clamping force the will be directly in line of the upward force of the jack and the downward gravitational force of the joist when it is being jacked up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This 4x4 will be bolted to the outward face of the 11.25in. part of the front most and back most 2x12’s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think is strong enough to support the load plus force of the jack or do you think it will just rip the 4x4 off of the 2x12; while also destroying the face of the 2x12’s?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. This project is a hoppy type of thing I am doing and it is not anything that &amp;quot;construction&amp;quot; related.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9484" LastActivityDate="2020-11-29T13:55:36.713" Title="Will a 4x4 be suitable?" Tags="|wood|technique|wood-repair|framing|timberframe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11253" CreationDate="2020-11-28T21:25:52.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would probably go with a 6x6 and notch out two of the faces, without doing any math. Takes the weight from the bolts and allows them to provide clamping pressure only. Hard to say for sure without knowing exactly what your doing.  &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8nCbZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9329" LastActivityDate="2020-11-28T21:25:52.820" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11253" CreationDate="2020-11-29T13:55:36.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've got hydraulic jacks - even cheap ones will lift 2&amp;quot;, so lift height isn't critical, so don't try to put your 4x4 vertically - that could be wobbly as it moves during the lift, and it concentrates &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; the lift force at one point on your structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lay 2 4x4s down sideways so that they cross all the 2x12s near each end.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leave clearance for the existing supports and the future supports&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use hurricane ties or joist hangars (with appropriate nails or screws) to attach the 4x4 to &lt;em&gt;each&lt;/em&gt; 2x12&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is to prevent movement, &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; to resist lifting force.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All the weight is transferred directly wood-to-wood and you're not counting on any piece of hardware resisting the sheer force of the weight above.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put one jack at each end of the 4x4, 1 or 2 joists in from the edge and directly under a joist&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This will spread the force across all the 2x12s while putting the most direct force directly under a joist.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do the same at the other end of the joists.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enlist some friends/family to operate all 4 jacks at the same time and same speed to ensure all lifting happens evenly to prevent racking of the structure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jack it slightly higher than the final height.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set up the new footers/foundation/final supports&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower onto the new supports and bolt/lag/nail into place.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will give you 6 tons of weight plus the weight of the structure itself spread across 4 jacks. Theoretically, each jack is only taking about 1.5 tons. If you get four 6-ton jacks (which you can pick up pretty cheaply at the store that goes to the Harbor to get their Freight, or any automotive store), you'll have more than enough jacking capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the jacks at full extension don't reach the height you need, support each jack on some 2x6(or greater)x12&amp;quot; cuts stacked (and nailed/screwed to prevent movement) until the compressed jacks just touch the bottom of the 4x4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used a system similar to this to hold up our porch roof (on a 6x6) when we tore out the porch &amp;amp; columns below it to rebuild them. Supported some 2x10 on scaffolding, put the 6x6 on top of that, worked the jacks under, lifted the roof, put 6x6 support posts under it, released the jacks, removed the scaffold. Worked a treat. Used jacks from the aforementioned store with no problem - for the few extra bucks, I got two 12-ton jacks - significant overkill, I'm sure, but they held with no worries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2020-11-29T13:55:36.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11256" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11259" CreationDate="2020-11-29T18:36:35.580" Score="6" ViewCount="699" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a simple stool to practice hand-tool woodworking. I'm roughly following the Paul Sellers and Rex Kreuger how-to videos &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=1798&amp;amp;v=NnD0sUM7KAY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=825&amp;amp;v=vO6lATthAmE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I managed to cut the tenons pretty close to the stool, but I had a devil of a time getting the stubs to be flush with the seat; I also really messed up the surface finish of the seat in the process with scratches and digs from the saw and, later, the handplane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bzCWB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bzCWB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;tenons with tearout and scuff marks marring seat&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stool seat is hard maple, and the legs are ash - it's my first time working with ash and I found the end-grain very difficult to plane or pare with any degree of control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qR3vI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qR3vI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;close-up of tearout, which goes deeper than the level of the seat&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spelching you can see here was really disheartening - it happened at the end of a paring cut with the chisel. However, I got similar results with the plane (but not as severe, since the tenon-stubs were taller when I was trying the plane).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm relatively sure sharpness isn't at issue; I sharpened my plane iron and the chisel right before trying this (I knew planing endgrain was a pain) to the extent they were both able to take hairs off my arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know from the Paul Sellers video that too-tall tenon stubs are quite tricky, so I'm sure this was part of my issue, although I don't see how I could cut any closer to the seat without completely marring the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually I gave up and flattened the last bits with a sandpaper-block, even though I was trying to avoid using any abrasives and achieve an OK finish with the plane. However, the sandpaper (400 grit) scuffed up the maple figure and I had to do a finishing pass with the plane afterwards. (This was its own challenge, probably best for another question though).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, what should I have done here? How do I trim the tenons so they are flush without messing up the surface of the seat? Alternately, if it's a foregone conclusion that the seat will be marred, how do I plane it so I'm not catching on the tenon-grain as I'm planing with the seat-grain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any help you can provide!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AKA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="292" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2022-07-22T03:56:35.997" LastActivityDate="2022-07-22T03:56:35.997" Title="How should I have avoided breakout/spelching here?" Tags="|joinery|mortise-and-tenon|tear-out|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11256" CreationDate="2020-11-29T19:55:46.727" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not an expert but i think i would use a flush cut saw instead of a chisel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make the tenon a little long, at least a 1/4&amp;quot; and then use the  flush cut hand saw to cut off the extra.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodcraft.com/products/japanese-kugihiki-flush-cutting-hand-saw?utm_source=bing&amp;amp;utm_medium=cpc&amp;amp;utm_campaign=PLA&amp;amp;utm_term=12F24&amp;amp;utm_content=All%20Products&amp;amp;adlclid=ADL-9a4c4b7e-40c2-4da1-953a-31d44d5d6612&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;flush cut saw&lt;/a&gt; has straight teeth  so as to not gouge the surface it is laying on and moving across. Once it is cut you sand the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uR_dpVNtNJc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Flush Cut Saws&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdrXuqd7cp8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Japanese Hand Saws&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2917" LastEditorUserId="2917" LastEditDate="2020-11-29T20:03:21.517" LastActivityDate="2020-11-29T20:03:21.517" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11258" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-30T06:59:56.337" Score="0" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to stain my outdoor yard fencing.  The white cedar fencing is about 12 yrs old, in good shape, and is now a light grey color.   What would be the most efficient way to stain the fence?  I have about 350 feet of fencing for the project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9487" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-12-01T20:22:26.550" LastActivityDate="2020-12-01T20:22:26.550" Title="Efficiently staining a White Cedar Fence" Tags="|refinishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11256" CreationDate="2020-11-30T08:22:12.093" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't beat yourself up too badly over this. You've just learned empirically (as many of us have!) the one key lesson of flushing projecting tenons or dowels — don't work them&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; until they're almost flush already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way to do this is to saw off as much of the projecting wood as possible (ideally all, but in practice this isn't always doable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't absolutely need a flush-cutting saw for this task. Now to be fair, flush-cut saws can now be bought relatively inexpensively but you tend to have to pay a bit more for ones that truly work as advertised. Plus, these are single-purpose tools, something that not a few woodworkers try to avoid buying. And worst is that even with these you may end up marring the surrounding surface anyway!&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you also want to limit your toolkit to the minimum you can use any number of other saws for this, and do one of the following.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saw very carefully to minimise scratching the surrounding surface — which you know you're going to be planing or sanding anyway, easily erasing such minor scratches.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use one of various tricks to limit, or prevent, the teeth of the saw from leaving any scratches. These tricks include using tape or thin card around the tenon/dowel, and applying tape &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/scratch-free-flush-cuts/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;or thin card&lt;/a&gt; to the side of the saw blade itself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kun73.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kun73.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Flush-cutting tricks&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;This way you're only subsequently removing wood equal to the thickness of one layer of tape or thin card by paring, planing, scraping and/or sanding. &lt;em&gt;Note that you still have to be careful of minor chipout until the wood is absolutely flush.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm relatively sure sharpness isn't at issue; I sharpened my plane iron and the chisel right before trying this (I knew planing endgrain was a pain) to the extent they were both able to take hairs off my arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As covered in a previous Answer or two, shaving arm hair is not a good proxy for a cutting tool's ability to cut wood. What is a good proxy is the ability to cut wood :-) so keep scraps of pine on hand — &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; a harder wood, softer woods are much less forgiving — and use their end grain if you want to test sharpness in a meaningful way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually I gave up and flattened the last bits with a sandpaper-block, even though I was trying to avoid using any abrasives and achieve an OK finish with the plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should feel absolutely no shame in this, there is too much emphasis being placed by some online sources that finish-planing wood is &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; thing to aim for. Finish-planing meaning the very last thing to touch the surface is the plane, with absolutely no scraping or sanding afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; something you can aim for I'll let you in on a dirty secret of Western woodworking: &lt;strong&gt;almost nobody does this&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even the people who espouse a high degree of planing proficiency, and tell you their 'secrets' for sharpening and plane setup to achieve this, are regularly scraping or sanding some &lt;em&gt;or all&lt;/em&gt; of their surfaces. The fact is that sometimes the wood won't cooperate with your tools, so you have to take an alternate route to achieve the end result you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll paraphrase something Chris Schwarz said one time, &lt;em&gt;plane until you can't improve the surface any more, scrape until you can't improve the surface any more, then sand&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; This includes paring, planing, scraping and sanding. All of these processes are capable of breaking out wood (AKA spelching) on the far side of the projection being worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; See more on Popular Woodworking, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/truth-flush-cutting-saws/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Truth About Flush-cutting Saws&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-11-30T08:22:12.093" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11260" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-30T09:13:42.340" Score="0" ViewCount="2363" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've looked around the internet but cannot find a good explanation for this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, will a 1-1/2” hole in the dead center of a board (say, the biggest common hardware store found material: 2x12 Doug fir) weaken the structural integrity of the board regardless of the length, knots, etc.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, put a different way: how big of a hole can one make in dimension lumber until the structure of that lumber is compromised?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9488" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2020-12-03T19:18:19.127" LastActivityDate="2020-12-04T16:49:45.283" Title="How does the size of a hole in dimension lumber affect strength?" Tags="|wood-properties|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11261" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11263" CreationDate="2020-11-30T10:17:21.463" Score="0" ViewCount="858" Body="&lt;p&gt;A recommendation in a book says &amp;quot;The countersink must have only one flute and must be ½&amp;quot; diameter&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as flutes on a router/drill bit are concerned - reading other questions here on woodworking - I gathered that the greater the number of flutes - the quality is higher but the process is slower - since the feed rate is slower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not own a countersink bit yet, and the most commonly available ones here are five flute ones - I would like to know what makes a single flute countersink bit better than a five flute one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Okay - to re-phrase and simplify the question -&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;What are the differences between a single flute countersink bit and a countersink bit with five flutes?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do countersink bits with different number of flutes exist?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9443" LastEditorUserId="9443" LastEditDate="2020-12-01T09:05:34.440" LastActivityDate="2020-12-01T09:05:34.440" Title="What are the differences between a single flute countersink bit and a five flute countersink bit?" Tags="|drill-bits|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11260" CreationDate="2020-11-30T13:56:17.893" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm confused between the 3/8&amp;quot; hole noted in your title and the 1 1/2&amp;quot; hole mentioned in your question body, but neither, when located in the center of the 12&amp;quot; dimension of a 2x12, will cause any significant weakening of the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In home construction, you're generally allowed (by code) to drill a hole up to 1/3 the width of the board before it's considered compromised and an engineering solution is required to strengthen it for the lost wood - for your 2x12 example, you could drill a 4&amp;quot; hole (actually 3.75&amp;quot; is the biggest you can go since a 2x12 is actually 1.5x11.25), centered on the width, without significant concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, however, you're drilling through the 2&amp;quot; dimension (actually 1.5&amp;quot;, as noted above), then you can drill a 1/2&amp;quot; hole and fulfill the requirement. I would be extremely cautious about this, however, as it can be difficult (without a drill press) to drill exactly down the middle of a 12&amp;quot; board without wandering. Also, I'm not entirely sure if the 1/3 rule applies to a vertical hole. I wanted to mention it, though, since you didn't indicate which direction you were drilling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind that when used on edge (12&amp;quot; tall), the dimensional lumber gets its strength from the top fibers being in compression and the bottom fibers being in tension. I'm not sure exactly what thinning it by 1/3 would do to those forces with a vertical hole. For that, you'd probably be better off asking at the &lt;a href=&quot;https://diy.stackexchange.com&quot;&gt;Home Improvement&lt;/a&gt; sister site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, a 3/8&amp;quot; hole is only bad if you'd intended it to be 1/4&amp;quot;. It's rather more difficult to fill and drill a new hole. If you needed a 1/2&amp;quot; hole, instead, it's much easier to enlarge the hole (though it still has difficulty and will take time/effort to ensure the new hole is precisely centered on the old hole).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2020-11-30T14:03:50.877" LastActivityDate="2020-11-30T14:03:50.877" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11261" CreationDate="2020-11-30T14:44:04.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As covered in the Comments under your previous Question, this is another pronouncement from the author where he's presenting his opinion as fact, without any evidence or apparently any arguments in support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simple fact is that both styles/types work, and can work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Style&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The specifics of a countersink's shape are more important than the number of flutes, by which I mean it must be shaped properly, which isn't the case with many cheaper countersinks of modern manufacture. They can look indistinguishable from a quality one to the naked eye but the devil is in the details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the commonest multi-flute countersinks &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; originally intended for metalwork this style can work perfectly well on wood if made well, &lt;em&gt;sharp&lt;/em&gt;, and used appropriately&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Size&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Now as to size, here's where I have a particular problem with that, achem, &amp;quot;one size fits all&amp;quot; advice. I doesn't take a genius to think of cases where you definitely wouldn't want to use a countersink that's a whopping 1/2&amp;quot; (~13mm) in diameter! &lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably also worth mentioning the following in this context.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Countersinking doesn't have to be a separate operation any more&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;There are numerous variations on this basic idea but the basic feature they all share is that they combine a countersink with the pilot bit so both operations are done simultaneously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b7zdw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b7zdw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Combination drill-and-countersink bits&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Note it's clear that both of the above are directly intended for use on wood due to the design of the drill portion of the bit, yet despite this they have multi-flute countersinking portions.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These could be a huge timesaver in a production environment where perhaps dozens or hundreds of holes are needed daily so they're probably most applicable to that. But they're inexpensive enough that even the casual hobbyist could acquire a small set for the occasional drill/countersinking they do..... if they can't stomach the 30 seconds extra it takes to countersink separately ^_^&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; As touched on in a previous Q&amp;amp;A, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2986/why-is-my-countersink-bit-making-hexagonal-holes&quot;&gt;Why is my countersink bit making hexagonal holes?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Counterbored #4 screws anyone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-11-30T14:44:04.773" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11249" CreationDate="2020-11-30T16:13:23.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another possibility (which I don't think is likely, but I'm adding here for completeness) is that the kerf is closing after the cut and the material is binding the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main cause of this would be that your workpiece is improperly supported.  If you have auxiliary supports outside the saw itself make sure that they are level with the saw.  If they are higher as the cut weakens the board it will &amp;quot;hinge&amp;quot; shut on the blade, pinching it until it stops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2020-11-30T16:13:23.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11248" CreationDate="2020-11-30T16:49:06.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to make a steel rule non-slip, how about self-adhesive baize instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of this can be very thin indeed.  The thinner stuff will pick up less sawdust and be easier to brush clean, as well as putting the markings closer to the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like cork this will also make it non-marring, though your rule shouldn't damage the surface anyway&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2020-11-30T16:49:06.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11258" CreationDate="2020-11-30T17:48:24.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Focusing on efficiency, I would pressure wash and then apply whatever finish you choose with an airless sprayer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per @graphus I would start by pressure washing the fence, since this may improve the appearance significantly, and a thorough cleaning should be done prior to any application of finish.  Pressure washing will be faster by far than any manual process.  You will, however, have to wait for the wood to dry out before re-finishing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For applying finish efficiently (in terms of time) nothing will beat an airless sprayer.  They move material out much faster than HVLP or conventional air spray guns.  Airless sprayers can also spray higher viscosity coatings like latex paint, which HVLP really can't do.  The clean-up and maintenance is a little annoying, and you end up wasting the material in the hose, but it is far faster than brushing or rolling, particularly in a situation like this where the surface isn't flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will also have to consider overspray and &amp;quot;bounce-back&amp;quot;, but since this is an outdoor situation the masking required should probably be minimal.  If the fence is near pavement, trees, buildings, or anything else you don't want painted then it will need to be masked off appropriately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that you will need a sprayer tip that is appropriate for your material.  Most quality coatings will include information about tip size.  The tips are consumable and will need to be replaced every 10-20 gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2020-12-01T16:45:01.830" LastActivityDate="2020-12-01T16:45:01.830" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11247" CreationDate="2020-11-30T22:59:50.743" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before assembling, I'd like to apply some sealant so that it stays clean for some time&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's not a good approach. It does sometimes make sense to finish pieces before assembly, especially when parts will be hard to reach afterward. The down side is that because glue doesn't bond well to most finishes, so when pre-finishing you need to mask off all the areas the will receive glue. That'd take far more time than it's worth for such a small project. You'll be better off assembling at least the major components of the box, such as the main box and the top trays, and then applying finish. You could really assemble the whole thing first since any parts that will be unreachable afterward will also be hard to see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Linseed oil: I've found out that it produces a rather unpleasant smell that lasts for months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's true if you're talking about raw linseed oil, but the linseed oil that people use most often for finishing is treated to significantly speed up the polymerization (drying) process. They used to treat it by actually boiling the oil, but modern versions are usually treated with chemicals instead. Even so, the stuff is still known as &amp;quot;boiled linseed oil&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;BLO&amp;quot; for short, and it's a good option because it's easy to apply, looks good, and offers at least some protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Water-based) polyurethane: would be ideal, but it's overkill for this simple project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of the finishes you mentioned, polyurethane probably provides the most protection against markers and such. It's relatively cheap, available in a range of finishes from matte to glossy, and it can be applied several ways. The easiest way would be to spray it from a can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mixture of (extra-virgin?) olive oil + fresh lemon (ratio 2:1).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people swear by olive oil as a wood finish, but I'd avoid it especially for something like a storage box. Olive oil doesn't polymerize into a hard surface the way that &amp;quot;drying&amp;quot; oils like linseed oil do, and the concern is that the oil in the wood could eventually turn rancid and smelly. I'd avoid this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shellac in crystals, to be dissolved in alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of good things about shellac, but preparing it isn't one of them. Dissolving the flakes takes a long time, and after you've done that you may need to let the wax settle out (unless you buy dewaxed flakes). That's a lot of work for just the small amount you'll need for this project, and once prepared shellac only keeps for a relatively short time. Even the flakes eventually go bad. You'll be better off buying a small can of prepared shellac. It's even available in spray cans, which would make application very quick. Shellac isn't impervious to markers to the degree you're probably hoping for, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Danish oil: I know too little about it. Is that an easy-to-use sealant?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Danish oil is usually just another name for polymerized linseed oil or sometimes tung oil, so see above. It dries to a hard film that gives some protection and looks nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Danish oil: I know too little about it. Is that an easy-to-use sealant?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd use spray on water-based polyurethane because it's quick and easy to use, cleans up easily, and provides the most protection of the solutions under consideration. If you're not into spray cans, most of the spray products are available in liquid form for brushing or wiping on. Minwax Polycrylic is one example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If polyurethane is unacceptable for some reason, then I'd probably choose BLO or shellac. Both are easy to use. Tried &amp;amp; True is one brand of polymerized linseed oil that's easy to use, goes a long way (a small can will last through many small projects like this one), looks great, and is very safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2020-11-30T22:59:50.743" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11268" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-01T04:39:14.193" Score="5" ViewCount="555" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to recreate this bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NMR2f.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NMR2f.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now I'm trying to figure out how I'm going to attach the back leg which is at an angle. It needs to be disassemblable. The manufacturers assembly instructions have a wooden cleat bolted to the back board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tQ3ef.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tQ3ef.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The back board is .75in wide. I could recreate this using threaded inserts and 1in bolts. Could I also just screw this together with regular wood screws? The back board will be mortise and tennoned into the back leg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a little worried about the angled butt joint between the side rail and the back leg. I would think there would need to be dowels or something there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had thought of two different ways to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1: Angle iron bracket with dowels in angled butt joint.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Alch.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Alch.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what screws I could use that would go through the .125&amp;quot; steel and into the .75 rails. I'm also worried about getting the dowels lined up in the angled butt joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2: Bed bolt with dowels&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o20A3.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o20A3.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this would use the most traditional bed making methods, I'm just worried about the angle. I'm not sure how to get the holes for the dowels and bed bolt to all be parallel and level so that they support the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for thinking about this with me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5222" LastActivityDate="2021-01-17T04:31:59.357" Title="Options for attaching bed legs at an angle" Tags="|joinery|furniture|assembly|hardware|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11270" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-03T03:35:09.500" Score="1" ViewCount="1456" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sanded the surface to 320 before applying shellac, it was quite smooth to the touch. Unfortunately, right away with the first shellac coat, a grain texture formed, worst in the darkest species. I thought maybe with application of some more coats it would smooth out, but that doesn't seem to be happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried sanding it lightly with 220 grit paper, and while it did improve it somewhat, in virtually no time I was exposing bare wood again so I'm limited in how to deal with it that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the best way to smooth out the surface? I've seen information about rubbing out as well as french polishing, but I am not sure what best applies to my situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rpVDm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rpVDm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Varies with wood species.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qLczU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qLczU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close up&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2020-12-04T08:43:06.957" Title="How to smooth out grain texture from shellac?" Tags="|finishing|sanding|shellac|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11270" CreationDate="2020-12-03T08:50:11.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought maybe with application of some more coats it would smooth out, but that doesn't seem to be happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were French polishing it could if you took it far enough (i.e. spent enough time on it!) but very broadly speaking grain was filled before application of shellac started, and this would have greatly lessened what you're seeing here I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the best way to smooth out the surface?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have a few options. The first is to sand back a little or a lot right now, then continue applying shellac.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second is to begin applying shellac again, until it basically smothers the grain irregularities. It's hard to tell how much would be enough without at least a little sanding, but you would normally be abrading slightly at some point in the process and it can be now, later (at a certain stage during the buildup of coats) or basically right at the end when you are perfecting the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I'd have no hesitation in sanding this back now then applying more shellac. Not least because it will give results you can see immediately, which is reassuring, rather than having your fingers crossed that later on a certain amount will do what you want, with the ever-present risk of sanding through somewhere along the arrises and especially at the corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here, by sanding back I mean sanding until all or virtually all of the texture is gone; which &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; mean exposing bare wood. You want to back the abrasive with a hard block to help keep the surface as flat as possible as you sand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just for future reference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sanded the surface to 320 before applying shellac&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is unnecessary when applying a film finish. Because a film finish literally builds a film on the wood — the surface of the finish becoming the final surface — you can generally stop at around 180 grit, and sanding further yields no benefit. And in some situations you can actually stop sanding at 150 without sanding texture being evident after finish application, and without the final result looking visibly duller or anything like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-12-04T08:43:06.957" LastActivityDate="2020-12-04T08:43:06.957" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11272" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-03T14:46:52.897" Score="0" ViewCount="741" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some built in cabinet designs that are all-hardwood designs with structural members getting screwed into the framing of the house. The structural members are expensive hardwoods like Wenge. They are visible, but the places where the screws fasten into the framing are hidden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Naturally the carpenters are going to want to use a single pilot hole and use GRKs to fasten them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of insisting on stainless steel wood screws, even though it means drilling two different diameter pilot holes plus the countersink, the reason being that the wider diameter of the wood screw will give a more secure and dimensional screwdown than the skinning GRKs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are GRKs perfectly adequate for this or is my impulse to use SS wood screws better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2020-12-03T16:03:54.140" Title="Wood screws versus GRKs" Tags="|fasteners|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11272" CreationDate="2020-12-03T15:43:20.563" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;GRK makes lots of screw sizes, and there are lots of stainless screws, many of which are less strong than similarly sized GRK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that the strength of the fastener is never going to even be an issue.  There are thousands of kitchen cabinets held up by the cheapest screws imaginable.  Typically with a built-in, the cabinet itself is supporting all the weight and the screws just hold it in place.  This makes the choice of screws even less an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2020-12-03T15:43:20.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11268" CreationDate="2020-12-03T15:48:49.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manufacturers assembly instructions have a wooden cleat bolted to the back board....I could recreate this using threaded inserts and 1in bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since your overall goal is to copy the design in the first photo, using the same method for joining the parts seems like a good idea. Assuming these beds aren't all falling apart because of a flaw in the way the legs attach to the rails, it also has the advantage of being proven to work in this situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could I also just screw this together with regular wood screws?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could, of course, but you probably shouldn't. One of the requirements you stated was that you need to be able to disassemble the bed, presumably for moving and such. While you can obviously remove and reinstall wood screws, doing so repeatedly quickly wears the threads cut in the wood. If you need to disassemble a screw joint from time to time, use threaded inserts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Angle iron bracket with dowels in angled butt joint. I'm not sure what screws I could use that would go through the .125&amp;quot; steel and into the .75 rails. I'm also worried about getting the dowels lined up in the angled butt joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems like it could work, but again I'd use threaded inserts in one of the pieces. It's really not so different from the original design -- you're just swapping angle iron for the cleat and adding dowels. Use a jig (see below) to ensure alignment of the dowels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bed bolt with dowels...I'm not sure how to get the holes for the dowels and bed bolt to all be parallel and level so that they support the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's easy to make a jig that'll help you drill the holes at the right angle and ensure alignment. Take a square piece of scrap that's the same height as the bed rail, and preferably the same thickness too. Mark the two &amp;quot;top&amp;quot; corners, and then drill holes for the dowels and the bolt horizontally through the thickness of the square. Now cut the square in half at the same angle as the angle on the end of the bed rail. This gives you two pieces with angles that match the rail and the leg, and with the holes spaced the same. Use each one as a drilling guide: clamp in position on the part and drill through the holes into the part, so that the jig determines the position and angle of each hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2020-12-03T15:48:49.850" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11272" CreationDate="2020-12-03T16:03:54.140" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are GRKs perfectly adequate for this or is my impulse to use SS wood screws better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It's your house, and the carpenters work for you, so if you want them to do something a particular way you shouldn't hesitate to ask for that. Just be aware that if your preferred method takes more time, it may cost you more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Assuming the carpenters have done this sort of thing a few times before, it might be a good idea to trust their judgement. You could explain your concern and ask what they think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you're only concerned about strength and don't care about wood screws for some other reason, then an alternative might be to have them use one or two extra fasteners in each of those structural pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2020-12-03T16:03:54.140" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11270" CreationDate="2020-12-03T17:32:34.370" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just continue to do a light sanding with 120, just to knock off any fuzziness, then continue with adding more coats of shellac. Don't use a paint brush, but instead use an applicator pad which you make them by hand. The awesome thing about Shellac is that you can add more coats without sanding because the thinners that is used allows the base Shellac to basically melt thus allowing the new coat to mix with the old coat, regardless of the age of the original coat.  It is not like polyurethane clear coat, where is must be sanded to bond with the old coat or the last coat, of polyurethane, that was applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go to YouTube and watch this fellow, he is amazing and extremely knowledgeable and experienced in finishing wood, among many other items.&#xA;Go to the following YouTube link:. &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/xErUsgT7f4M&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/xErUsgT7f4M&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck &#xA;John McL&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9500" LastEditorUserId="9500" LastEditDate="2020-12-03T17:39:29.783" LastActivityDate="2020-12-03T17:39:29.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11278" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11279" CreationDate="2020-12-03T20:26:21.060" Score="1" ViewCount="146" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had a Multico PM12 for over twenty years and it has faithfully served me both for mortising and as a drill press. My workshop is not big enough to fit in both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very recently I needed to use a 45mm diameter Forstner bit to cut 12mm deep recessed holes into solid oak. I tried this in the mortiser and this works OK for a few seconds (say 2mm depth) but after that it gets too hot and burns the sides of the hole being cut. I can cut them very slowly letting the bit cool down but with 24 to cut it takes ages. If I cut for too long, cleaning up the burn marks is very time consuming and difficult, but a drum sander in a electric drill does help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This burning is obviously because the mortiser speed is around 2500 rpm which is ten times too fast for such a large diameter bit (250 rpm max for 45mm Forstner bit in hardwood).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any experience of using an AC frequency reduction device to slow such a machine down. If so can they recommend a make and model. How slowly would I be able to run the motor and what would the current increase to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9502" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2020-12-04T11:19:23.490" LastActivityDate="2020-12-04T11:19:23.490" Title="How to run a fixed speed Mortiser at a slower speed?" Tags="|drilling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11278" CreationDate="2020-12-04T02:43:04.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if the wood working SE is the place to post this question, but ill give you my experience. The best way to deal with this is hands down get your hands on a drill press. That being said there are motor controllers that you can buy that can change the speed of your motor using Pulse Width Modulation (PWM).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem you may run into though, is once you start dropping speed, you start reducing the amount of torque you'll get. Drill presses with their pulleys maintain certain torques at given RPM's due to the pulleys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dimmer switches are another way you can play around with motor speed but I would highly discourage that, the slightest bit of load will need to be balanced out by changing the dimmer, causing a lot of multitasking which will lead to injury.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I would try to get ahold of someone to with a drill press, even if it costs you a couple beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9329" LastEditorUserId="9329" LastEditDate="2020-12-04T03:27:15.730" LastActivityDate="2020-12-04T03:27:15.730" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11280" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-04T16:04:15.520" Score="0" ViewCount="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good morning.&#xA;I am making a charcuterie board and want to use water based acrylic for decorative lettering. All of the sanding has been done. Should I use the mineral oil coating prior to putting on the acrylic or vice versa?&#xA;Thank You!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9509" LastActivityDate="2020-12-04T18:13:55.667" Title="Using acrylic paint lettering" Tags="|finishing|wood|design|sanding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11281" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-04T16:39:42.327" Score="-1" ViewCount="135" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to construct a tv console with a drop down door, but i want the door to fully retract into the cabinet after it’s dropped down. I’m not sure what type of hinges i need for that.&#xA;what hinge system can do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9510" LastActivityDate="2020-12-05T12:21:34.683" Title="What hinge system can “hide” a drop down door?" Tags="|hinges|hardware|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11260" CreationDate="2020-12-04T16:49:45.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does the size of a hole in dimension lumber affect strength?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The larger the hole, the greater the reduction in strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, will a 1-1/2” hole in the dead center of a board (say, the biggest common hardware store found material: 2x12 Doug fir) weaken the structural integrity of the board regardless of the length, knots, etc.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, yes. The question isn't really &lt;em&gt;whether&lt;/em&gt; the board is weakened, it's &lt;em&gt;how much?&lt;/em&gt; Whether it's enough to matter depends on the particulars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, put a different way: how big of a hole can one make in dimension lumber until the structure of that lumber is compromised?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any hole you drill in a board is effectively one more defect that &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; become aa point of failure if the board is pushed to the point of failure. Every wooden board has its own set of knots, resin pockets, cracks, etc., and we compensate for those in structural applications by using boards that can be expected (even with their defects) to carry several times the largest load the board will ever see. In other words, we're careful to make sure that the board is never pushed anywhere near the point of failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chances are, a 1 1/2&amp;quot; hole through the center of the face of a 2x12 won't make much discernible difference in strength, but whether it &lt;em&gt;actually&lt;/em&gt; matters is really a decision for an engineer or at least someone with experience. For example, FreeMan explained that a board taking a load across its width (e.g. like a joist or a beam) is strong because one edge is in tension while the other is in compression; the main job of the center of the board is to maintain the separation between those two outer regions, and a smallish hole isn't likely to hurt much. But, if the load on the board is across the thickness (e.g. using the board as a ramp), then a 1.5&amp;quot; hole in a 12&amp;quot; board is like a 12.5% reduction in width, and that might create enough of a weak spot to matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if you're asking because someone else wants to put a hole in a beam or joist and that makes you uncomfortable, or because you want to make hole but want to make sure it's safe. In either case, consider the cost of a potential failure and get an opinion from a qualified expert if the stakes are high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2020-12-04T16:49:45.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11280" CreationDate="2020-12-04T18:13:55.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should absolutely not apply mineral oil prior to painting.  It will almost certainly interfere with the paint adhering and/or curing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2020-12-04T18:13:55.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11281" CreationDate="2020-12-04T19:27:53.240" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try something like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.richelieu.com/us/en/category/hinges-slides-and-opening-systems/slides-and-drawer-box-systems/slides/specialty-slides/pantry-slides/flipper-door-slides/series-123-flipper-door-slide-with-hinges/1008579?s=slide%20hinge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Series 123 Flipper Door Slide with hinges&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c9kaw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c9kaw.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9329" LastEditorUserId="9329" LastEditDate="2020-12-05T12:21:34.683" LastActivityDate="2020-12-05T12:21:34.683" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11281" CreationDate="2020-12-04T20:01:42.717" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cabinet pocket door hardware, is the search term you want. (&lt;em&gt;Retractable door slide may also be helpful&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/lurm6mkAQfk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Accuride&lt;/a&gt; has several. The model &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.accuride-europe.com/slides/1316&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1316&lt;/a&gt;  may be the one you want as it appears to keep the door from swinging down when retracted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other models would work but you would need to ad a cleat on the sides of the cabinet to keep the door from swinging down when retracted. (&lt;em&gt;If used on top&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are all set up to be on top, (&lt;em&gt;or the side&lt;/em&gt;) you state &amp;quot;drop down&amp;quot; I suppose you could use them in that orientation. The 1234 or the 1312 would work for that application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RQl-Nwc6C5M&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Accuride Youtube&lt;/a&gt; video showing all of those models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many options, but this should point you in the right direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2917" LastEditorUserId="2917" LastEditDate="2020-12-04T20:07:18.860" LastActivityDate="2020-12-04T20:07:18.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11287" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-05T05:01:07.997" Score="1" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to thin my polyurethane finish with mineral spirits as an alternative to buying a wipe on poly - but when I started to look at several of the easily available options for Clear Gloss, like Varathane or Minwax or Arm-r-seal, their MDS sheets show a &lt;strong&gt;huge range of total solvents&lt;/strong&gt;, in each product, like they cant (or wont) tell what’s in each can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here’s &lt;strong&gt;Minwax Gloss Poly&lt;/strong&gt; which I think of as a “full strength” (and seems thicker than Arm r seal, for instance):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ingredient name&#xA;% by weight&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Light Aliphatic Hydrocarbon&#xA;≥50 - ≤75&#xA;(other ingredients listed are each less than 1%, no listing of polyurethane or resin or anything.)&#xA;So, &lt;strong&gt;50-75% solvent&lt;/strong&gt; - quite a range there!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here’s &lt;strong&gt;ArmRSeal&lt;/strong&gt; which I think is more a wipe-on poly, fairly thin out of the can:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chemical Name (3 separate listings with different CAS#s called mineral spirits)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mineral spirits 20-40%;&#xA;Mineral spirits 10-20%;&#xA;Mineral spirits 5-10%;&#xA;Nonane 5-10%;&#xA;Oil modified urethane resin 10-35%;&#xA;Resin 0-25%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/docs/MSDS_Arm_R-Seal.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/docs/MSDS_Arm_R-Seal.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Nice they give at least a mention of resins, but again, ridiculous ranges! &lt;strong&gt;40-80% solvents, 0-25% resin&lt;/strong&gt; etc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Varathane Gloss showed similar large ranges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why don’t these companies a)know or b)have to put better estimates of total solvents?&#xA;I’m a newbie but have read enough online at least, to have absorbed that finishing products are mostly unregulated, buyer-beware, no way to find out what is in them (eg Danish Oil).&#xA;Is there any way to know which is more concentrated, except by how thick it pours out of the can? Frustrating!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anybody with the inside track, on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers! Steve&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9018" LastActivityDate="2020-12-05T05:01:07.997" Title="Why do MDS for polyurethane finishes show such a wide range of solvents? What are we really getting?" Tags="|finishing|finish-selection|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3577" CreationDate="2020-12-05T12:01:36.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I do with sheet-ware due to lack of space, is basically &amp;quot;hang them on a wall&amp;quot;. I built a heavily braced and supported shelf low down, with a row of holes perpedicular to the wall every 60cm (~2ft). Then the same up top, with the rows of holes, but individual braces instead of a continuous shelf, with some old sliders (what I had on hand) so the top braces can move vertically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How it works, is I put the sheets &amp;quot;on the shelf&amp;quot;, pack them as tightly against the wall as I can. Then I put broom handles/shafts down the holes closest to the sheets, and then slide the top braces down so the top end of those broom handles go in the corresponding holes up top, gently tapping them down with a rubber mallet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way, the sheets are stored &amp;quot;perfectly&amp;quot; vertical, without any room to bow, not contacting the concrete floor. And braced on both sides; by the wall on one side, the broom handles on the other. I drilled the holes in a 2x side-by-side staggered pattern to give me finer &amp;quot;adjustment&amp;quot; of the broom handle braces, but whenever no hole lines up ideally vs the thickness of the sheet stack, I slide a handful of wooden wedges in between the broom handles and sheet stack, to close the gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I built the bottom as a shelf, to enable crate storage underneath. But it could also just be some thick wood on the floor, as long as it acommodates the holes, lifts the sheets off the floor, and is anchored so it doesn't slide away from the wall when bracing. This obviously won't be ideal for large (really thick) stacks, or &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; heavy material - but within common sense I've found this solution to work very well for my use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9520" LastActivityDate="2020-12-05T12:01:36.183" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11289" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11290" CreationDate="2020-12-05T15:44:43.570" Score="3" ViewCount="201" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old General International drill press (model 17-125M1 — so old that the GI website does not even show any results when I use their &amp;quot;Search&amp;quot; facility).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It works for the most part well, except that occasionally, the head (the chuck) just falls.  Usually not dangerous, but still an annoyance; plus, some times it ruins the wood piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it falls, I simply push it up and slightly twist it counterclockwise, and it seems to just snap in place.   But it does not solve the problem  (in that it may continue to work at that moment, but at some point the problem will repeat).  For example, trying to use a countersink bit on a piece of plywood seems to be hopeless  (the chuck falls every single time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would I go about fixing this for good?  (I would like to try to fix it myself before getting it repaired, since I estimate the cost of getting it repaired may be too high)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9521" LastEditorUserId="9521" LastEditDate="2020-12-05T19:25:19.780" LastActivityDate="2020-12-08T14:48:07.113" Title="Drill press, chuck falls down. How do I repair?" Tags="|power-tools|tool-repair|drill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11289" CreationDate="2020-12-05T16:34:07.523" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the chuck have a tapered shaft on its back end? That is called a Morse taper, developed for quick-change operations back in the day. The proper way to re-install it is to slide it into place, retract the 3 jaws into the chuck body, then use a hammer and a wood block to bang it upward sharply. The slight taper (about 2 degrees) helps it lock in. When they wanted to remove or change it, a light tap downward onto the chuck would pop it free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5916" LastEditorUserId="5916" LastEditDate="2020-12-08T14:48:07.113" LastActivityDate="2020-12-08T14:48:07.113" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11291" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11295" CreationDate="2020-12-05T19:53:51.620" Score="3" ViewCount="2015" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm designing a project where two hardwood 3/4&amp;quot; panels will be joined at a 90 degree angle and the aesthetics call for a butt joint, but I'm thinking that it would be better to strengthen it in some way.  For reference, the panel is just over 8&amp;quot; long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example of what I'm trying to do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HvqEK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HvqEK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Contemporary Step Stool Picture&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.1stdibs.com/furniture/seating/stools/contemporary-step-stool-steps-white-oak-casey-lurie-usa/id-f_7968233/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;photo credit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first thought was a long mortise and tenon joint (possibly separated into two, but this runs with the grain so I don't think that it would need that?). I'm having a hard time finding examples of using it on two long panels like this though, and am concerned about the short tenon since it is joining into another relatively thin panel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A rabbet is a common joint for panels, but it isn't the appearance that I'm going for.  I could live with it if I had to, but as before, I haven't been able to find examples of using it for only two panels that are free-standing.  I'd imagine that the typical box using rabbets would be a lot stronger than just two panels like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that I specifically do not want the appearance of the traditional joints which are visible such as dovetails, box joints, miters, etc. or visible fasteners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now I have this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4RiSY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4RiSY.png&quot; alt=&quot;Long Mortise &amp;amp; Tenon Drawing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions would be appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9140" LastEditorUserId="9140" LastEditDate="2020-12-05T20:03:34.607" LastActivityDate="2021-01-14T09:32:12.877" Title="How to make a stronger butt joint where two panels meet" Tags="|joinery|butt-joint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11291" CreationDate="2020-12-05T20:16:40.097" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use biscuits or dowels. The second picture of the blind mortice and tenon would work as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9329" LastActivityDate="2020-12-05T20:16:40.097" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11294" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-05T23:28:15.450" Score="0" ViewCount="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used a 2ft. piece of 2x12 Doug Fir as a small ramp for truck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When truck weight was on the 2x12; the 2x12 flexed (sagged) a little and when the weight was removed the 2x12 went back into its regular straightness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wood made a little popping sounds but there are no cracks or anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m curious as to is this wood still strong in both planes or did the momentary sagging under weight  greatly reduce the strength of the the wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9525" LastActivityDate="2020-12-05T23:28:15.450" Title="Wood sag question" Tags="|safety|wood-selection|strength|framing|wood-properties|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11291" CreationDate="2020-12-06T00:05:11.630" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking that it would be better to strengthen it in some way&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You likely don't &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; this to be any stronger than the glue-only joint, if you do it right. Think of the stresses this is put under in use, the joints won't actually have to endure strong forces since the normal forces go straight down the length of the boards to the ground. And as I mention in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4233/what-are-the-different-grain-directions-and-how-do-they-affect-joint-strength/4240#4240&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt; the end grain | long grain joint is stronger than is widely assumed; again, IF done right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there's no reason not to reinforce if you can/want to. Erring on the side of strength is rarely something one regrets&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nails or screws&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;One of the simplest and strongest options is of course nails, but screws would be quite a bit stronger. Counterbore and fill the holes with long-grain plugs if aesthetics demand; do this well and the screw holes will be almost impossible to see on the finished item unless you go looking for them. But alternatively you can always use a contrasting wood for the plugs to make them a feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dowels&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Personally I'd use through-dowels since I'm a fan of the look of the exposed dowel ends, although obviously this is a very personal thing. It does make drilling the holes a snap! :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted to use blind dowels then you won't loose much strength if they go deeply in the thickness of the second board; you could leave as little as 1/8&amp;quot; and it probably won't be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dowel joinery is immensely strong&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, but to add even further strength without using a large number of dowels they can be inserted in dovetail fashion, where e.g. each pair is at opposing angles. The angle only needs to be shallow for the effect to kick in, so if you use through-dowels their ends aren't very obviously oval in case that would bother you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Loose tenons&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The classic expression of this these days is the Domino, but the technique is much older and this can be done using a normal router (or even with hand-cut mortises naturally) and shop-made tenons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case you don't know, this method has the advantage that a single setup cuts the joints in both pieces of wood, while sacrificing little or no strength compared to a conventional M&amp;amp;T joint&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spline&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Splines aren't used much any more (actually I'm not sure how much they were used in the past either) but it's a very strong way to reinforce even a basic mitre joint, which is a lot weaker than the joint you're doing here. Note that if you select this option &lt;em&gt;the grain of the spline must be at right angles to the joint&lt;/em&gt; — you often see this done incorrectly online, by YouTubers for example! — or, use a strip of plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note on the original SketchUp image: at the request of the OP, I want to make it clear that I dismissed the idea of the long vertical 'tenon' from the outset. Tenons aren't used on the edges of boards because this would align them with the grain and make them very weak. Worth noting also that in standard cross-grain tenons very wide ones are avoided anyway; typically for wide and very wide boards you use two or even three narrower tenons rather than a single one that spans the same distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You haven't asked about this but do be aware that the tenon you show on the end of the board is much wider than normal. The conventional solution for tenons on a particularly wide board would be twin, or even triple, tenons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that in effect the joint you're creating here between the 'legs' and the steps is a cross-grain one, and as such it has to allow for all the expansion and contraction across the width of the uprights. The wider the boards the more and more important this becomes, especially with flat-sawn material. As unpleasing as it probably seems it's actually preferable to use metal fasteners here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Much of furniture work is about making stuff as strongly as possible to future-proof things, to cover unexpected or unusual forces pieces might be exposed to, e.g. from being knocked over or simply when dragged across the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Destructive testing regularly shows dowelled joints can match or exceed that of mortise-and-tenon joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; It's possible to make this joint &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; stronger than any conventional M&amp;amp;T, for example by using aluminium for the tenon,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-01-14T09:32:12.877" LastActivityDate="2021-01-14T09:32:12.877" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11297" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-06T17:06:42.543" Score="1" ViewCount="120" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a lovely table on the cheap off Craigslist that needs repair to the table legs. Fractured at the point where the legs meet the base, the breaks were filled with some kind of glue but not clamped.  The result is mismatched pieces that have spread apart and on one leg the dowel hole is almost filled with glue. What would be the best way to remove the glue given the fact that I don’t know what kind was used. This isn’t a matter of cosmetics the table is structurally unsound. It is a teak table from the seventies and the legs are solid wood not pressboard.  Thanks. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/liTTx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/liTTx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hi again! No I haven't abandoned either this question or hope. I do payroll for a municipality and end of year shenanigans make this quite possibly the worst time of year to start a thread about table legs. And yet I did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a scale of 1-10 my skill level is about a 5--very basic. I have some saws, also sanding and finishing equipment. My workspace is shared with cars and my living space shared with people who are happy to accommodate my obsession with furniture repair as long as it doesn't involve moving their cars. My projects have to be set up and taken down within the day. In summer I work outside, kind of ideal for sanding but it makes shelaccing a bit of dance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've assembled the table on spec and included a picture. When I got it, the legs were semi-attached and dangling to each other by their bolts which thankfully were not bent by it but it was easy to see how the wood might have fractured under the stress if they transported the table like that before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The legs attach to the top via two bridge pieces, one of which is missing. I've stayed in touch with the previous owners who might have the bridge and the leaves out in their shed. They will let me know in the spring. If not, then I will have to jury rig a new bridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The glue is clear yellow and soft, i can stick a metal pick into it easily but it snaps back when pried at. The only thing I can use as a lever is the wood itself and I don't want to do any further damage to it, its already so fragile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking some combination of heat and physics? Maybe softening the glue with a hair dryer and slowly prying apart the wedges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;table in pieces&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/khAeT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/khAeT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;table in pieces&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9530" LastEditorUserId="9530" LastEditDate="2020-12-12T15:40:15.593" LastActivityDate="2020-12-12T15:40:15.593" Title="Failed table leg glue up removal" Tags="|glue|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11298" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-06T18:37:21.793" Score="2" ViewCount="1545" Body="&lt;p&gt;I guess that over the years I (ab)used this 1¼-inch-thick kitchen table top, by, for example, not using place-mats. The finish was initially extremely good. I palm-of-hand applied the varnish (which one, I can't remember). The idea was to use palm heat to push the varnish deeper into the grains. It worked quite nicely. But cleaning with a moist paper towel year-after-year ends up slowly sanding the varnish off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qJhtu.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qJhtu.png&quot; alt=&quot;table top has oily streaks&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second mistake: I didn't apply the varnish on the bottom side of the table with as much vigor as the top side. As you see from the picture below, the bottom of the table was in any case not finished at the factory with nearly as much attention as the top side. (I understand that this is not unusual.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wB12I.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wB12I.png&quot; alt=&quot;bottom is not as nicely finished, not quite as thoroughly varnished&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now aside from the irregular discoloration from food oils infusing into the top of the table, the more serious problem is that the top has warped. In the picture below, you see that it no longer sits flat on the legs and beams on the two short sides. The long sides are fine. They still sit perfectly flush with their beams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1ajN0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1ajN0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;table top has warped off the beams and legs&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the next view you see the table top against the floor. Assuming the floor itself is still planar, the warping is quite serious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jslOg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jslOg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;table top is no longer planar&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can this table top be salvaged? How?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm considering borrowing one idea from another (1⅛-inch thick) table top. On a desk table top that I have recently finished, I see that the manufacturer (a different one) has built a metal beam within a groove in the bottom of the table. They may have done this merely to give extra strength to the desk, since the frame carrying the table top does not quite reach the edges, rather than to stop warping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My hunch is that if I now retrofit the kitchen table top with two metal L-beams, just next to the existing wood beams on the short sides, and force the table top straight by a number of screws through the two metal beams, then that would just be a recipe for developing cracks along the top the table, effectively ruining it. Do you agree? Both tables are of comparable dimensions: roughly 5ft x 2½ft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O9qm8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O9qm8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;metal L-beam embedded in the bottom of the table&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9462" LastEditorUserId="9462" LastEditDate="2020-12-06T22:09:09.850" LastActivityDate="2020-12-07T09:26:16.607" Title="How to repair a warped kitchen tabletop?" Tags="|wood-repair|warp|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11299" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11302" CreationDate="2020-12-07T01:49:52.173" Score="2" ViewCount="942" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quality table tops are built from many smaller pieces of wood, which are then glued together. (Here we focus on table tops, not on butcher blocks, where multiple long beams are glued, then cut into successive slices.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pattern on the table top easily identifies how it was assembled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eKt4i.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eKt4i.png&quot; alt=&quot;building a table top from many pieces of wood&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage of assembly in this way is to reduce the effect of shrinkage or expansion of any one piece of wood. Even if one warps, its effect will be small, and there is a good chance it will be held in place by the adjacent pieces. If the stress does cause trouble, the difficulty will be limited to the development of a crack on one side of the table, and an additional bit of glue may well solve the problem by maintaining the integrity of the table top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite all this, a table top made as shown in the pattern above &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; eventually warp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kQGxR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kQGxR.png&quot; alt=&quot;cupped table top&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What causes this cupping? The many pieces of wood have now cupped as a single element, and so the stress from any one of them is not responsible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thought is the following: If a table top has cupped and now looks like the sketch above, then that means that the bottom side has absorbed more humidity than the top side, because wood expands when the space between the cells absorbs humidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this correct? Sag is of course potentially another cause, but we assume here that the table top was resting on a rectangular frame underneath that reached to nearly cover all four sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We're not even talking yet about how to fix the problem, merely about the effect of humidity on such a table top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9462" LastEditorUserId="9462" LastEditDate="2020-12-07T18:58:52.747" LastActivityDate="2020-12-08T10:15:13.067" Title="Which side of a cupped table top has absorbed more humidity (and other causes for warping)?" Tags="|warp|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11299" CreationDate="2020-12-07T05:16:34.723" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Is this correct?&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a rough start, you should assume that moisture is evenly distributed throughout the wood. What happens is that the curved grain structure of the wood (a consequence of circular growth rings) will change in dimension as the moisture content changes. Since the wood was milled at one moisture level, at any other level the board will show curvature. This accounts for the fact that the board only curves along one dimension. In the other, the structure of the wood is straight, so there is no change in shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="463" LastActivityDate="2020-12-07T05:16:34.723" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11298" CreationDate="2020-12-07T09:26:16.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second mistake: I didn't apply the varnish on the bottom side of the table with as much vigor as the top side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not a mistake. Despite the conventional 'wisdom' of modern woodworkers that both sides of a tabletop need to be finished (and some sources are very definite that it's &lt;em&gt;finished equally&lt;/em&gt;) this is actually not necessary&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can this table top be salvaged? How?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not possible to predict whether you can get this top flat again. Flatt&lt;strong&gt;er&lt;/strong&gt; certainly, but back to flat may be hard or impossible&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, especially over the long term.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of what likely caused the curvature here — it's not simply that the bottom was free to absorb more moisture from the air and swell, while the top could dry out more easily — I'd guess that without a fairly major intervention&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; you won't be successful here, especially if the desired end is a completely flat top that you can have some confidence will stay that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Not just the finish, or usage&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The current issue with the top may have been partly caused by the table not being structured properly. If you do manage to get the top flat again it would be extremely beneficial to reattach it to the aprons in a way that allows for seasonal movement. Currently it appears that only four pocket screws hold the top down across its width (two on each apron) and to put it mildly this isn't the best way to attach a tabletop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, I'm also unclear as to why the apron pieces don't align with the tops of the legs as would be normal. This I think would also have to be rectified to ensure a long-lasting solution because you want a uniform, flat, surface for the top to be pulled against by whatever fasteners are chosen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; The bulk of tables — both modern and historical — don't have tops that are finished on their undersides. Yet, as we all know from being around furniture all the time, the bulk of tables don't warp. This tells us directly that applying finish to only the top of a tabletop can be perfectly fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Warped wood generally wants to stay that new shape and there may be tremendous force within it resisting a change, which is why so much clamp pressure can be needed to force a thick curved top back to flat once you bring it into the workshop to fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; For example resurfacing the tabletop by heavy sanding or planing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-12-07T09:26:16.607" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11299" CreationDate="2020-12-08T10:15:13.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What causes this cupping?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a little more complex than just about moisture loss and gain, it's to do with long-term changes in wood as these effects take place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What in essence makes a tabletop (as well as deck boards incidentally) cup in this way is &lt;em&gt;compression set&lt;/em&gt;. The wood on top gets wet/wetter and tries to expand, as wood naturally does when it takes on moisture, but it is unable to do this as much as it needs to. So the wood fibres become compressed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over time this effect builds up, and eventually you reach the point where the top of the deck board/tabletop is substantially compressed, and weakened — which is why it may be impossible to rectify this problem on a tabletop by e.g. moistening the top to get it to expand, holding the top in its flatter state with clamps and letting it dry out. What very often happens is that once the clamps are removed the top bends again, at least partially&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, back to its former shape. This is why I said in your other current Question that some fairly major intervention may be necessary to resolve this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read more about compression set at the following links:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/finish_both_sides_not_necessary/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Finish Both Sides? Not Necessary.&lt;/a&gt; by Bob Flexner on Popular Woodworking.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.finehomebuilding.com/1997/01/01/decking-boards-which-side-up&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Decking boards: which side up?&lt;/a&gt; on Fine Homebuilding (answer by R. Bruce Hoadley, author of the very important &lt;strong&gt;Understanding Wood&lt;/strong&gt;).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://millcrek.wordpress.com/2012/08/16/straightening-a-warp-compression-set/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Straightening a Warp [ Compression Set ]&lt;/a&gt; on the Millcreek Woodworking blog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; But sometimes almost completely, which is very disheartening!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-12-08T10:15:13.067" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11303" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-08T16:43:55.500" Score="-1" ViewCount="380" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some finish carpenters joining hardwood panels together with tongue and groove joints. They have access to a basic cast iron router table, heavy duty Bosch router, and high-quality tongue and groove shaper bits. However, they prefer to do the work on the table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They say they get more repeatable results from the table saw. They say it is hard to control the height of the router bit and it can vary slightly from run to run, and it is hard to recover the exact correct height when changing bits. With the table saw they do a fence adjustment, which they claim is easier and more reliable than trying to set the height on the router bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this preference for the table saw reasonable or is there a reason why the router should be preferred?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that all the joints are along the sides of the boards. There are no end joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2020-12-09T00:03:23.707" Title="Make tongue and groove on table saw versus router" Tags="|joinery|power-tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2020-12-10T15:37:12.717" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11303" CreationDate="2020-12-09T00:03:23.707" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done both and they're both fine.  A router lift and a fence with micro-adjust will get you results just as good as a table saw.  If they're working with a cheaper router base mounted under a board style router table and a clamp-down fence it'll be a pain though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like most things in woodworking, there's more than one way to do this effectively.  Personally my favorite is to use a slot-cutter on a router table.  That way you don't have to stand anything up on edge.  But if they're more comfortable with the table saw I wouldn't second-guess them.  In general it's frustrating to be micromanaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2020-12-09T00:03:23.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11306" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-09T18:55:27.643" Score="6" ViewCount="254" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apologies if I break any rules with this post, please let me know if I do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am an utter novice when it comes to woodworking but I want to get into it as soon as I have the time/money and I decided a good place to get my hands dirty is trying to fix some of the second-hand furniture I'm gonna be getting for my new apartment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought this lovely desk which is mostly in pretty good shape except that the back legs are kinda loose and crooked. When it's standing, I can use it well enough without any wobbling but I'd love to fix them anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mhKmc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mhKmc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;desk&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like they were removed and glued back in at some point as it seems like there used to be a bar going from leg to leg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could remove one of the legs with a little force and unscrewing movement but the other one seems to be glued tightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RNenm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RNenm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WxxGI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WxxGI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;So, my questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I unglue that leg without damaging the desk?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I put them back in so that they stand perfectly straight like the other two?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind I have no tools or experience, but willing to do whatever is in my means!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the comments the mortise has a loose bit as seen in the picture, so you are definitely right that I should address that as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9536" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2020-12-11T18:23:51.317" LastActivityDate="2020-12-11T18:23:51.317" Title="How to remove and repair a crooked desk leg?" Tags="|wood|furniture|wood-repair|restoration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11306" CreationDate="2020-12-09T22:08:45.350" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given your lack of tooling I think the only reasonable way to address this is to flood the affected joints with epoxy.  (Funny how many of my answers seem to be this solution lately.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, get some high-quality 2-part epoxy.  Personally I like the West and Entropy brands, but I'm sure there are others that are just fine.  You'll also need a &amp;quot;filler&amp;quot; to thicken them since this will be a gap-filling application.  Aim for a &amp;quot;ketchup&amp;quot; consistency when adding the filler.  Also get some disposable plastic syringes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the leg that you can detach clean the mating surfaces of the mortise (the hole) and tenon (the part that goes in the hole) with coarse sandpaper so that they are free of any existing glue.  See if you can find a clamp or some other way to force the gap in the case closed.  Use the syringe to get some epoxy in the gap in the case, then apply epoxy to the tenon, making sure that there is enough epoxy to fully fill the &amp;quot;looseness&amp;quot; between the mortise and tenon.  Clamp the case to close up the gap in the apron (though if the clamping takes too much force don't worry about it).  Use masking tape going from the end of the leg to the case to hold the leg straight while the epoxy cures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the leg that you can't remove I would drill holes going upwards diagonally around the leg so that they intersect with the tenon.  Use the syringe to force epoxy into these holes until it starts seeping out of the leg joint.  Again use tape to hold the leg straight while the epoxy cures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2020-12-09T22:14:13.380" LastActivityDate="2020-12-09T22:14:13.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10750" CreationDate="2020-12-11T03:39:49.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same issue. It was not the worm gears. My plunge was getting into a bind and caused some wear marks on the router which was causing the issue. I used my Dremel and lightly sanded down some of the groves caused from the plunge. Then used white grease to lubricate the router and works great again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9545" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-12-11T09:09:03.327" LastActivityDate="2020-12-11T09:09:03.327" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2028" CreationDate="2020-12-11T15:32:43.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My application is OSB to SPF (2x BORG lumber), and I could not find definitive data about appropriate glues for OSB and other resin-based engineered wood materials, so I called Titebond / Franklin International, and spoke with one of their engineers. His first recommendation was to use their &lt;strong&gt;polyurethane construction adhesive&lt;/strong&gt;, noting that its gap-filling properties would be helpful to overcome the rough surface of OSB. While PVA glues (Titebond II, III etc.) can reach strengths approaching 4000 psi on normal wood, he noted that OSB tends to fail around 700 psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, &lt;strong&gt;regular PVA wood glue is actually fine in this application, because OSB itself is the limiting factor.&lt;/strong&gt; He cautioned their PVA glues do not fill gaps well, so the surfaces should fit together well (i.e. flat), and said to not over-clamp. I asked about the 100-150 psi clamping recommendation for softwoods &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.titebond.com/App_Static/literature/glues/FF1040_Wood_Glues_Brochure.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;on their chart&lt;/a&gt; and he said that number is actually for pieces that may &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; fit perfectly, so very flat, well-fitting pieces need even less clamping force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9548" LastActivityDate="2020-12-11T15:32:43.713" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11311" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-12T06:07:05.290" Score="0" ViewCount="63" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making my daughter's rabbit her own &amp;quot;room&amp;quot;.  I bought some pressure treated plywood and made a 6' x 6' square and covered it with fake grass.  Put a bunch of 2x4s under it, and put 12&amp;quot; x 3/4&amp;quot; shelving on the sides so she could kick stuff out of it.  That's the base, and it turned out pretty good.  It is sitting in the corner of the room, so it had walls on two sides, and I want to make sides for the other two.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GAZkX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GAZkX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Base Design&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FVeD0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FVeD0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Completed Base&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My idea is to build the frame with 1&amp;quot;x4&amp;quot; wood.  I'd staple 1&amp;quot;x1&amp;quot; welded stainless steel wire mesh to it, and them  put another 1&amp;quot;x4&amp;quot; frame on the other side and screwed into each other.  My thoughts are this...  First, the welded wire mesh will hold up a lot better than the cheap chicken wire crap on the old hutch.  Secondly, if it's between two layers it can't just pop off with pressure from one side.  Lastly two layers of 1&amp;quot;x4&amp;quot; will give me a stronger (than a single layer of 1&amp;quot;x4&amp;quot; or 1&amp;quot;x2&amp;quot;) side without being TOO bulky.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NmFSW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NmFSW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Side Design&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two questions.  One main one, and a smaller one.&#xA;The big question is... How do I attach the corners where the two sides meet?  I will put a 2&amp;quot;x2&amp;quot; on the actual walls and anchor one side of the sides to them.  I will also attach the bottom of the sides to the 3/4&amp;quot; shelving  that surrounds the base.  Do I make one longer and screw it into the other?  I'm worried that with only 1&amp;quot; thickness that it won't hold well.  My other thought was to put a 4&amp;quot;x4&amp;quot; on the inside corner there, add some shelving scraps so it's even with the outer shelf surround, and then attach them to that screwing through both layers and into the 4&amp;quot;x4&amp;quot;.  I think that's an &amp;quot;easy&amp;quot; solution, but then I have a 4x4 sitting in the corner of her room :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, I have a board running down the center of the side.  Looking at a butt joint there I believe.  Best way to attach those?  I considered pocket holes, but thought that 1&amp;quot; might be too thin for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really appreciate your thoughts and opinions.  I want to get started on this this weekend so I'm hoping you can help me out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9550" LastEditorUserId="9550" LastEditDate="2020-12-12T23:05:20.117" LastActivityDate="2020-12-12T23:05:20.117" Title="How to Attach Sides to Rabbit Pen" Tags="|joinery|technique|design|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11312" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-12T09:20:42.570" Score="-1" ViewCount="390" Body="&lt;p&gt;My dust collection system is already up and running. I am about to add a new toy to the mix and started looking at my whole collection system again with a critical eye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently, I have a 1.5 HP dust collector attached to a trash can separator and then to a series of ducts, blast gates, etc. After reading some dark web blog posts I decided to vent the dust directly outside, thus avoiding those pesky filter bags altogether.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now I am thinking about avoiding the separator as well. And maybe instead of blowing the dust outside, I started to wonder:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Why couldn't I just blow everything - fine dust, wood shavings, loose change, whatever - directly into a sealed container?&lt;/em&gt; That is, &lt;em&gt;what is the purpose of the filter bag in the first place?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that the whole point of the separator is to preserve the life of the filter (less stuff reaching it so less stuff clogging it up). But I don't even have a filter to preserve. I've also heard conflicting info about separators:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They will drastically reduce your airflow&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's a closed system so it won't matter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If airflow is indeed being compromised by the separator, then my thought is remove it and convert it into a sealed container that collects &lt;em&gt;everything&lt;/em&gt; that goes through the system, without worrying about how many microns it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I missing something elementary here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Original poster here...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks jdv! (And Graphus &amp;amp; blacksmith37)...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK, a few clarifications. Regarding the physics of creating a negative-pressure scenario, my shop is in Hawaii and only has three walls and windows that are permanently open. Air flow is not a problem. Rust, on the other hand... But that is a different topic. Also, this is a hobby shop. I putz around in there as much as I can, but it is definitely not a commercial shop. I don't create enough sawdust to be &amp;quot;that guy&amp;quot;. The annoying &lt;em&gt;noise&lt;/em&gt; of the woodshop is most certainly a bigger nuisance to my neighbors than the dust. But I live in an upscale redneck neighborhood so we're all good. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I still have bad memories of being the low person on the totem pole awhile ago at a shop I worked at. I was the newbie who had to clean out the filter bag. It always struck me as odd that so much effort was put into carefully collecting the dust in the shop only to dive headfirst into the filter bag and make a huge messy dust cloud. I like the idea of those pleated filter bags that have the butter-churning-type cleaner, but honestly this stuff gets expensive! Once I built my shop and started designing the dust collection system, I was determined to make it work well and be as hassle-free as possible. The idea of venting directly outside appealed to me. My shop is built on a deck that is about two feet above the ground and the dust is vented underneath the deck. I have one plank that is not screwed down so I can monitor the end of the hose and make sure nothing weird is happening beneath my feet. The shop itself has almost constant trade winds but under the floor is still air due to the fact that the shop is built alongside a rock wall that blocks the prevailing winds. So in other words, the fine dust that doesn't end up in the separator doesn't really blow around, it just kinda settles onto the gravel below my shop, virtually undetectable to the eye (well, so far).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess the only reason I was thinking of removing the trash can separator from the system was to recapture as many CFMs as possible. And my follow-up thought was, if I remove the separator, then I will end up blowing a lot more dust under the deck (rather than just the finest particles) which could in fact become a problem. Which led me back to contemplating a more proper collection system whilst avoiding the hassle of the filter bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think what I will do is temporarily bypass the separator and do some sort of makeshift test to see if I do actually get more suction without it. Maybe I am trying to solve a problem that doesn't exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks again! I appreciate everyone's thoughts... Aloha!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9551" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-09-02T07:36:34.517" LastActivityDate="2021-09-03T15:02:24.050" Title="Can I create a dust collection system that discharges everything into a sealed container instead of a filter bag?" Tags="|dust-collection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11314" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-12T21:56:53.637" Score="0" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently acquired 2 homemade saws, likely early 20th century, with features I can't quite place for function or aesthetic. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;18&amp;quot; saw with an odd bevel cut into the top edge of the blade.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ykgfg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ykgfg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bevel&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PLpe0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PLpe0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;saw handle&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A smaller saw with a wavy upper edge. Point is broken off&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rcKkT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rcKkT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;wavy saw&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E7oaO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E7oaO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;close up&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9556" LastActivityDate="2020-12-13T12:37:43.087" Title="Identifying 2 strange homemade hand saw features" Tags="|hand-tools|hand-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11315" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-12T22:04:25.287" Score="4" ViewCount="401" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to repair the bottom cross bracing that runs between the legs of an oak table, pictured here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vTkNn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vTkNn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wood table shown from above&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some unknown number of years ago, the top piece sheared off at the half lap joint and pulled out of the leg with some damage to the board, leaving the screw behind. I have the piece and want to reattach, making sure the repair is strong. Detail images follow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8xCnB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8xCnB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Half lap joint shear location&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lnKRK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lnKRK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Broken board at joint end&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YtJzW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YtJzW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Broken board at leg end&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yx066.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yx066.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Leg at pull out location&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have thought to repair this by removing old glue and backing out the original screw, then replacing the board, gluing at the center. But the old half lap then becomes more of a butt joint so I don’t think this will hold &amp;amp; I am not sure the best way to address the leg side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rebuilding this bracing out of new boards is beyond what I am willing to take on. I have considered reinforcement using some sort of metal strap or tie on the underside of the joint. I had thought an X-shaped strap would work best but the hardware that I have found at Big Orange or searching online are all straights, tees, wyes, and particular specialized shapes for structural framing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would you approach this repair?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9555" LastEditorUserId="9555" LastEditDate="2020-12-12T22:10:29.023" LastActivityDate="2021-01-03T00:00:10.463" Title="Repairing a half lap joint in table leg x-bracing" Tags="|joinery|wood|furniture|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11314" CreationDate="2020-12-13T08:17:40.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know about the second one but the first is very likely a commercial saw, or at least the blade is from one. The feature you're asking about is the 'saw nib'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For such an innocent looking feature the nib is actually quite the controversy in woodworking circles. People will argue long and hard about what it was for — yes, people will argue about &lt;em&gt;anything&lt;/em&gt; it seems! — however the weight of evidence strongly supports that it is merely decorative, the last remaining purely decorative feature on the blades of saws at the end of a long tradition of decorative (even fanciful) shapes added here and there on saw blades, as well as handles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodmagazine.com/tool-reviews/hand-saws/the-enigmatic-nib&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The enigmatic nib&lt;/a&gt; on Wood Magazine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it didn't have a practical use as far as we know, people delight in coming up with their own ^_^&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/2-great-uses-for-a-saws-nib/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2 Great Uses for a Saw’s ‘Nib’&lt;/a&gt; on Popular Woodworking.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://paulsellers.com/2014/07/questions-answered-why-nibs-on-old-handsaws/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Questions Answered – Why Nibs on Old Handsaws&lt;/a&gt; from Paul Sellers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second saw, I've never seen anything like this in a carpentry/woodworking saw. Saws were a part of other trades — including surgery, horticultural work and butchery — and the style and features of saws not intended for wood are often strange looking to the eyes of a woodworker (just as non-kitchen knives can look odd to a cook or chef). That wavy top edge may at one point have been well known within its particular niche but now just a historical footnote.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I look at the tool again I'm actual thinking, if it's not purely decorative, &lt;em&gt;this may in fact be the primary edge of the tool&lt;/em&gt;. And just in general terms the saw edge does appear to be on the back of the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-12-13T12:37:43.087" LastActivityDate="2020-12-13T12:37:43.087" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11136" CreationDate="2020-12-13T09:48:42.280" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I decided to go out on a limb and buy a stack to know for sure, and...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It fits! There is a verry small amount of play before tightened, but any less and the blades would scrape over the arbor. I believe this is a proper 5/8&amp;quot; arbor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not know about other manufacturer's arbor dimensions, but if you have a DeWalt, you may be in luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are interested in dados and buying a contractor saw in Europe,  in addition to the arbor diameter the DWSE942 also has a long enough arbor to support the full blade/chipper stack with some (not all) of the spacers provided in the Freud 6&amp;quot; Pro Dado Set.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DU3TB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9301" LastEditorUserId="9301" LastEditDate="2020-12-15T08:09:10.843" LastActivityDate="2020-12-15T08:09:10.843" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11312" CreationDate="2020-12-13T16:41:45.407" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are probably no regulations for this in a home shop. For a commercial shop, you would not be able to exhaust dust to the outside &lt;em&gt;without&lt;/em&gt; collecting it. There are a pile of rules about environmentals and fire safety and so on that will almost certainly restrict you doing this commercially. Check your local statutes just to be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in the 70s and 80s central vacuums that exhausted to an attached garage that was technically outside the main building were common. So a system that mimics this would be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, many shops exhaust to the outside anyway, because it can actually lead to overall healthier internal air quality (when done right). But, there are considerations and caveats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you vent outside, you are creating negative pressure that may need to be offset with a heat/air exchanger of some sort. Again, this may just be for commercial systems that move lots of CFMs, but it really depends on your shop. How much air are you removing from the space, and what (furnaces, spray rooms, other vented equipment) will be affected?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Example: For my shop, which is essentially unheated and leaky as hell, I could do this. But I'd also be sucking out the small amount of heat my radiant system makes to the cold Canadian outside. This is not a win for me without also coming up with a heat exchanger, which makes no sense given how the rest of the shop is right now.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, do your homework and make sure you understand the physics. As pointed out, you cannot exhaust into a sealed container. Also, please don't be That Guy in your neighbourhood that blows raw sawdust into the air around your house. But, with a little consideration you should be able to make a separator and a collection system that vents outside &lt;em&gt;correctly&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it'll be more work than you think (because of the airflow and exhaust and maybe legal considerations), and you already have a perfectly working collection system. Why mess with that when you could be &lt;em&gt;creating&lt;/em&gt; sawdust?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2020-12-13T16:41:45.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11322" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-14T16:29:57.203" Score="0" ViewCount="636" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Record 76 rabbet plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plane is bevel side up, and the primary bevels as ground by the manufacturer appear to be 45° or close to it. (If I apply pressure to the bevel whilst bevel side down on a flat surface, the blade seems to &amp;quot;stand&amp;quot; at an angle half way between the surface and the vertical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rightly or wrongly, the blade has a secondary bevel ground onto to it. I am not sure of it's angle, but clearly it must be steeper than 45°.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plane iron is sharp but when assembled it cuts rather terribly no matter how I adjust it. The blade doesn't want to &amp;quot;plane&amp;quot; but rather dig in and stall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what should I do? My gut says I should grind away at the primary bevel so that it becomes a single beveled iron cutting at 45°.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7922" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2020-12-14T17:45:10.840" LastActivityDate="2021-09-10T19:04:25.410" Title="Correct angle for a bull-nose rabbet plane (Record 76) blade" Tags="|sharpening|plane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11322" CreationDate="2020-12-14T16:49:23.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While a 45 degree angle is quite high, this should work.  It is common to use higher angles in bevel-up planes to prevent tear-out in more difficult woods (i.e. figured, reversing grain, or difficult species).  The higher angle will cause the plane to be more difficult to push, but in a narrow plane like this that shouldn't matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's not really a whole lot that can go wrong in bevel-up planes, but I would check to make sure that the sole is flat, and in particular that it isn't hollow in front of the blade.  This will prevent the fibers from being supported before the cut and lead to the wood splitting out before the blade cuts them.  This is more of a concern here due to how little support there is for the nose of this plane.  (I've previously had a Stanley 78 with this exact problem.  It was basically a total loss.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2020-12-14T17:43:15.403" LastActivityDate="2020-12-14T17:43:15.403" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11324" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11325" CreationDate="2020-12-14T18:00:48.953" Score="2" ViewCount="740" Body="&lt;p&gt;Making a frame using 1&amp;quot;x4&amp;quot; wood.  Exposed ends are not a concern.  Which would be a stronger joint, a mitered corner with glue and 1&amp;quot; pins (2 from each side), or a butt joint with glue and pocket holes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9550" LastActivityDate="2020-12-14T21:13:18.033" Title="Mitered Corner with Glue and Pins vs Butt Joint with Glue and Pocket Holes" Tags="|joinery|miter-joint|butt-joint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11324" CreationDate="2020-12-14T21:13:18.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The second, by a &lt;em&gt;substantial&lt;/em&gt; margin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The claims of strength from purveyors of pocket-screw jigs have been tested by many woodworkers, including numerous pros (e.g. Bob Van Dyke of the Connecticut Valley School of Woodworking), and these tests often confirm that when used for a standard 90° joint between two boards strength can rival &lt;em&gt;or exceed&lt;/em&gt; that of mortise-and-tenon joinery. No basic mitre joint reinforced with a few brads can match that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that said, the mitre joint might be strong enough. So in the right context if you want to use mitres for appearance reasons — they make for a very neat corner, and there are no pocket-screw holes to hide or try to fill/plug in a way that looks good — then you can, without having to worry the thing is going to fall apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-12-14T21:13:18.033" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11326" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11327" CreationDate="2020-12-14T23:03:14.943" Score="3" ViewCount="3657" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, I am pretty new to woodworking. I treated some poplar with half tung oil, half citric oil (for thinning the tung oil and facilitating absorption). I waited 24-48 hours and then I applied All Natural Soapstone Sealer and Wood Wax (made from walnut oil and carnauba wax). I didn't know that I needed to wait at least a week before applying wax....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I have been advised that I should scrape the wax off, use mineral spirits (the kind with no water added) to get the excess wax off, reapply the tung oil/ citric oil mixture, and wait....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been procrastinating. I am noticing that the wood is feeling drier now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it dry and cure if I just left it? Will I be making a big mistake if I just leave it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9561" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-12-15T08:25:17.677" LastActivityDate="2020-12-15T09:13:00.650" Title="Didn't wait long enough for tung oil to dry before applying wax - can I just leave it be?" Tags="|tung-oil|wax|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11326" CreationDate="2020-12-15T09:13:00.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tung oil will cure perfectly well under a buffed-out layer of any wax polish. Wax finishes are very thin as normally applied and full of microscopic pinholes, making them extremely permeable, so the oxygen necessary for curing has no difficulty in getting through (just as water can).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I'll let you in on a dirty secret of wood finishing, &lt;em&gt;nobody&lt;/em&gt; who uses wax as the final stage in their finishing regime actually waits for their oil-based finish to &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/884/what-is-the-difference-between-curing-and-drying/897#897&quot;&gt;cure&lt;/a&gt; because nobody is waiting a month or more for the wax to go on :-) So in fact it's perfectly normal to apply wax on top of only partially dried oil finishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You didn't ask about this but I wanted to address it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;half citric oil (for thinning the tung oil and facilitating absorption)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For future reference thinning oils with a solvent doesn't do much or anything to aid penetration, except possible on end grain where it doesn't matter because penetration into end grain is already deeper than required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note on citrus solvents: while these are, at least in part, genuinely made from citrus peel the product isn't nearly as green or safe as it's made out to be. So personally I don't use that citric solvent anyway for the same reason I don't use genuine turpentine; the toxicity of d-Limonene and turpentine are pretty similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-12-15T09:13:00.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11328" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11329" CreationDate="2020-12-15T19:17:58.453" Score="0" ViewCount="466" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a rough-sawn plank of ash that I'm trying to finish using only hand tools (and no abrasives if possible).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the board is flat-sawn, and you can see where the heartwood begins - the heartwood is tearing out really easily, leaving the gouges you see here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/evWDn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/evWDn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;close-up of tear-out areas in heartwood of ash board&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I think my hand plane is fettled OK - it's taking full-width, thin shavings - but those shavings are just &amp;quot;missing&amp;quot; the areas that have tearout For what it's worth, it feels clear to me from hand-feel which way is with, and which way is against the grain, and going with the grain seems to yield less tearout..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't tell if the tearout is just lower into the surface than I've been planing, or if I'm continuing to cause tearout with each pass. If it's the former, &lt;strong&gt;I think I should just keep planing until it evens out&lt;/strong&gt;; if it's the latter, &lt;strong&gt;I don't know what to do&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a power sander, planer, or basically any power tools; I have sandpaper blocks but would like to understand what's going on before I give in and use them: is this just a characteristic of ash heartwood, that it has these weak areas? Or is there another technique I should be using?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AKA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="292" LastActivityDate="2020-12-15T19:44:19.143" Title="How do I mitigate this tear-out, ideally with hand-plane and scraper?" Tags="|hand-planing|tear-out|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11328" CreationDate="2020-12-15T19:44:19.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As wood grows throughout the year it differs in hardness and shear strength.  This is what creates growth rings.  What you see here is that the areas that are weaker (due to growing faster during the warmer months of the year) are tearing out, but the harder areas are not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also some species where the grain will &amp;quot;interlock&amp;quot; such that there is no single correct orientation to plane it.  This happens because the wood fibers will spiral around the trunk in one direction during one growing phase and spiral in the other direction during the other.  This isn't common in ash, but it is known to happen occasionally.  I am pretty sure this is what you're looking at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I think that the solutions here are just what you'd normally do to combat tear-out...Use a higher angle frog or grind your blade to a higher angle if it is bevel-up, use a tighter mouth, set your chipbreaker closer to the cutting edge, and most importantly, make sure your blade is as sharp as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your idea of using a card scraper or cabinet scraper is a good one too.  Sanding should also take care of this easily.  If you don't have a random orbital sander this might be a good excuse to get one...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2020-12-15T19:44:19.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11331" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-16T21:56:21.487" Score="2" ViewCount="214" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to restore an old oak chair that was given to me by my mother. It was my great grandfather's and is probably 120-140 yrs old. At the front of the chair seat there is a long ~3/8ths slit, like a long dado that runs about 5 inches from the front of the seat. Much of whatever had been put into the slit has disintegrated but some of it remains. It looks to be some sort of fabric or material that has long since hardened. I was thinking about chiseling out what remains and then routing a 3/8ths piece of oak to put into the open gap. Has anyone come across anything like this or any recommendations? Pictures attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you - Brian&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YlPsH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YlPsH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2jczc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2jczc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9567" LastEditorUserId="9567" LastEditDate="2020-12-21T22:30:54.130" LastActivityDate="2020-12-21T22:30:54.130" Title="Restoring old oak chair but at a loss for something I've never seen" Tags="|finishing|wood|furniture|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7959" CreationDate="2020-12-16T23:44:50.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should look up two-part Polly&#xA;And if I had the peace do you have I would seal up the bottom side of the larger holes and divots ( if they go all the way through)  with tape then fill to desired height with a clear epoxy something that cures rather quickly .,,then  drop some small bits of turquoise in or some other rare Stone ( to take up space and accent that spot)and then two-part poly over the entire deal. Then sand smooth _  I don't recommend that you completely  frame in your work piece but it would help to make a perfectly level end piece. If that's what your after .,. After sanding flat no more dimples holes or blemishes. You will have to put a very light last coat to bring it back to glass smooth.,,. I would not waste my time trying to make it glass Moon from sanding paper. It takes forever I've used quite a bit of polishing agents polishing compounds buffing compounds sandpaper down to 5000 wet .,. Still never brought it all the way back to perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two-part poly tips&#xA;Make sure you put something under the piece to collect the drip. it will drip .&#xA;When mixing two-part polyurethane mix it slow to avoid creating bubbles&#xA;After pouring use a torch to pop any bubbles that you did ,&#xA;Make sure you do not overheat or cook the poly,,. it will happen shortly after it starts to smoke if you keep the flame on it&#xA;Don't mix up more than you'll use ,, do not try to save it&#xA;Use xylene to thin out&#xA;Use acetone to clean&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS This is the first, I've ever commented to anything on the internet ever.,. So if I'm doing this wrong please disregard and have a good rest of your evening&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9571" LastActivityDate="2020-12-16T23:44:50.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11333" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11337" CreationDate="2020-12-17T01:10:01.010" Score="2" ViewCount="246" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got the traditional Shop-Vac that uses either a collection bag or pleated filter which clogs up in no time when dealing with dust. I'm looking for something portable while doing repair jobs around the house or in the garage. I have a couple of Dyson vacuums (carpet &amp;amp; hardfloor) for use inside the house and I really like how easy it is to clean those out without having to deal with a filter. I've searched the Internet for a similarly designed cyclone type vacuum for shop use but haven't had any luck. I have seen the dust collector systems with the cyclone design, but those are big and not really portable. Does anyone make a cyclone or bagless shop dry vacuum as a single unit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9572" LastEditorUserId="9572" LastEditDate="2020-12-17T16:50:52.807" LastActivityDate="2020-12-18T12:32:21.030" Title="Is there a Bagless Dry Vacuum for Shop/Garage Use?" Tags="|dust-collection|sawdust|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2020-12-24T00:09:29.647" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11336" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11341" CreationDate="2020-12-17T06:00:37.643" Score="3" ViewCount="715" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning on building a bookshelf as shown below. Each shelf (maple plywood) will only be supported via a dado cut into the 2x4 (SPF pine), and glued. I am currently planning on cutting 3/4&amp;quot; deep dados.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I go about figuring out how much weight each shelf can support? I am hoping to use it as an home entertainment unit, so it needs to hold up to 30 lbs per shelf for consoles and audit receivers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sagulator&lt;/a&gt;, but it apparently is for shelves supported on both ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, what are some better ways then dado + glue? I am thinking one or all of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Screws from the back of the spine into the back side of the shelfs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;adding L brackets underneath each shelf (I am hoping not to do this for aesthetic reasons)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would these measures be overkill?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nVphA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nVphA.png&quot; alt=&quot;Spine Bookshelf Sketch&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&#xA;On a separate note, does anyone has any ideas how can I mount this to the wall as clean as possible? I mean clean as showing little hardware, and flush to the wall. I was thinking doing French cleat cutout on the spine, but I don't know if I can given I only have a circular saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9574" LastEditorUserId="9574" LastEditDate="2020-12-19T11:02:19.737" LastActivityDate="2020-12-23T14:44:17.610" Title="How do I calculate the weight capacity of my one side supported bookshelf (Spine Booshelf?)" Tags="|furniture|weight-capacity|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11333" CreationDate="2020-12-17T11:35:16.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cyclone folks make a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodcraft.com/products/oneida-air-systems-diy-dust-deputy-cyclone-only&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;version&lt;/a&gt; that is sized for a 5-gallon bucket. You can combine that, with a small shop vacuum, on a roll-around cart. There are dozens of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gkmOCRjuDtM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;examples&lt;/a&gt; of these carts on youtube, which will provide inspiration and maybe even plans for sale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1925" LastEditorUserId="1925" LastEditDate="2020-12-18T12:32:21.030" LastActivityDate="2020-12-18T12:32:21.030" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10791" CreationDate="2020-12-17T15:23:24.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Light sanding (320) cleaned up my mess quickly. Surprised that wiping with mineral spirits didn't work. I did notice that areas of wood exposed to the wet slurry (next to epoxy) did show filling of wood pores, but I don't think that's a problem in my case--just not that noticeable. I don't know anything about snakewood, but I'm guessing that the wet slurry of water and wood dust was forced into the pores of the wood--can't imagine it went very deep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9573" LastActivityDate="2020-12-17T15:23:24.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11339" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-17T16:06:05.493" Score="0" ViewCount="1441" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on building a kitchen countertop made out of joined wood, and I would like to build the sink out of the same type of configuration. So far, I have built the top (see picture below), and I am still struggling whether to continue with the plan to build the wooden sink or just put the metal one that I already have, which would make it way easier. I'm not sure that the wooden sink would last, that's why I would like to know other people's opinion on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here are my thoughts. If I build the sink out of wood, I'm planning on applying some layers of Epoxy (Table Top Epoxy from ProMarine) to protect the wood and make its surface stronger, but what worries me is that the hot water from the tap or from draining pasta or whatever hot would destroy the layer in time. There is no information about the temperature on the Epoxy containers. Another concern that I have is that the drain hole will have garbage disposal attach at the end. That thing vibrates a lot and is attached to a wooden hole, which would make that hole larger in time (the thickness of the wood is 5/8&amp;quot;), I assume. Also, I would need to bevel the hole's circumferential edge to make some room, which would make the wood even thinner (see sketch below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E4Lkf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E4Lkf.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if my worries are realistic or not, but I would like to know if any of you have experience with this and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to make the hole resistant to vibrations or how to glue the metal drain to the wood to make it very strong&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is epoxy enough to seal the wood and protect it even at high temperatures? (I read somewhere that the epoxy deteriorates with temperature in time)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there something else I would need to consider when having wood close to water, soap, and vibrations?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice and suggestion would help a lot!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2yQuD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2yQuD.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8663" LastActivityDate="2020-12-27T18:02:27.857" Title="How to seal and treat wood when building a wooden kitchen sink?" Tags="|joinery|wood|water-protection|vibration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11333" CreationDate="2020-12-17T16:37:35.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone make a cyclone or bagless shop dry vacuum?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, most shop vacuums are or can be used without bags. As you noted, they generally use a filter of some sort, whether it's a pleated cylinder or felt bag or some other style. You won't likely find a vacuum that doesn't use a filter at all -- even the Dyson home vacuums that you mentioned and the mighty &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.harveywoodworking.com/products/gyro-air-g700-dust-processor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Harvey G700 Dust Processor&lt;/a&gt; use filters. It sounds like your chief complaints are that you don't want to buy bags (which are themselves filters) and you don't want to have to clean the pleated filter as often if you currently do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know of any shop vacs that rely mostly on cyclonic action, but since you said that you need something for projects around the house, you might consider a backpack vacuum like the ones that are often used to clean office buildings. They don't have the kind of capacity that you get with a shop vac, but they're lightweight and designed to be portable. Some are bagless and look like they use cyclonic action. I don't own one so can't say if the filters clog less quickly than a shop vac, but worth looking into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to modify your existing shop vac so that it clogs less quickly. The most obvious modification is the addition of a pre-separator, like a 5-gallon bucket with a Dustopper or Dust Deputy cyclone lid. You could also try to create some cyclonic action inside your vacuum's canister. Most shop vacs have some sort of deflector where the hose connects to the canister, and it usually points downward. Try turning it to point to one side, and perhaps add a baffle to the lid to encourage the air to swirl around instead of heading straight for the filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2020-12-17T16:37:35.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11336" CreationDate="2020-12-17T18:24:22.280" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I go about figuring out how much weight each shelf can support?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on what follows this becomes sort of irrelevant, but if you did want actual numbers the only way I can think of realistically is to make sample shelves (note, not just one) and test them, see how much weight they can take before A) bending too much to be acceptable, B) fracturing or C) somehow falling out of the dado. Empirical numbers are the only real way to know for sure, especially with plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, what are some better ways then dado + glue? I am thinking one or all of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both your 1 and 2 would add strength and security here, with obviously 2 being the superior option in a couple of ways. But like you say, brackets under the shelves spoil the aesthetics here and it would be nice to maintain the clean, uncluttered look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, based on this, other design details and given the material of the shelves is intended to be plywood, I would recommend using either two long bolts or lag screws per shelf, approximately 3&amp;quot; apart. Or even better, steel rod/threaded rod since either &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be cheaper if you want to go, say, a full 6&amp;quot; into the edge of each shelf (although then drilling the holes becomes more of a technical hurdle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This mimics to some extent the way that floating shelves have long been installed so it's a sort of proven technology, and what's more it may then be possible to make this a knockdown piece so if/when you move you don't have to try to transport it as one awkwardly shaped item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-12-17T18:24:22.280" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11342" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-18T00:12:33.930" Score="0" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a signboard for a coffee bar. It's made from three glued together pieces of douglas fir tongue and groove floorboards that were installed in 1945.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engraving is done and I want to keep the 75 year old oxidization and patina of the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of using Minwax oil based clear satin wipe on polyurethane, then something water based to rub in and accentuate the edges of the engraving, followed by another coat or two of the polyurethane. Same polyurethane I'm using on the new kitchen cabinets in this old bungalow*.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would something like black acrylic paint brushed on then wiped mostly off work for this, if allowed to completely dry before going over it with polyurethane?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Completely ripping out the old flooring which had several layers of various types of other laid on it over the decades, partly to cover up damage from rot, carpenter ants, and powder post beetles. All insects long departed. Floor joists are 2x6 on 2 foot centers so reinforcing (sistering joists with glue, screws and 1/2&amp;quot; bolts plus 2x6 cross bracing and replacing beetle damaged 2x4 sill plate) is going in along with repairs to bug damaged joists. Topped with plywood, wood glue applied with a notched trowel, then particleboard. All screwed down. The parts that I've completed no longer feel like a bouncy castle. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On top of the T&amp;amp;G was tar paper, oil cloth, 1/8&amp;quot; masonite, real Linoleum, vinyl &amp;quot;linoleum&amp;quot;, 5/8&amp;quot; particleboard, vinyl flooring. Previous saw tracks down into the masonite showed a previous layer of particleboard or plywood and vinyl had been removed before the 5/8&amp;quot; particleboard and vinyl was put in circa 1997.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9583" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-12-18T07:55:58.827" LastActivityDate="2020-12-18T07:55:58.827" Title="Is this a good way to highlight a laser engraved design in wood?" Tags="|finishing|wood|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11336" CreationDate="2020-12-18T01:14:43.150" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your design raises some interesting issues and requires additional consideration for connections. Each shelf is supported at only one location and the actual load on each shelf is not the only consideration. The only way I can thin k of to evaluate the design is to actual test the assembly.  You may want to make a mockup of a single shelf and test it before proceeding with the entire assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are several things to consider as you work out the design:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The shelf will have a tendency to rotate out of its connection point.  Imagine pulling down at the center front.  The shelf will want to rotate up at the vertical connection. The joint between shelf and column must be tight to prevent this rotation.  In addition, if the depth of the shelf extending into the column is too shallow, then it will be easier for the shelf to rotate out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The two side edges of the shelf are unsupported and the entire shelf will want to curve down at the sides from loads. (a similar tendency will exist at the front edge) For this reason plywood is better than wood solid wood panels since it can better resist this curving to both the sides and the front where wood planks will be weaker across the grain than with it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your design is a cantilever and the further the weight is from the bearing point the more it will tend to curve the flat shelf profiles.  This affect will be more noticeable over time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You could reinforce the shelf by using a pair of long screws (say 1/4&amp;quot; x 6&amp;quot;) countersunk into the 2x4 from the rear. In that case I would minimize the dado depth and maximize the depth of solid column wood the screws engage before entering the shelf panel. Make the holes in the column very snug to prevent any rotational movement of the screws.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Steel 'L' brackets might work if the steel is thick enough (1/8&amp;quot; thick or more). I would mount the vertical leg of the angle to the rear side of the column and pass the horizontal through a slot opening .  You could cut a rabbet in the bottom of the shelf to make the underside of the steel and shelf flush. I would make the legs on the steel as long as possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My instincts tell me that a denser hardwood would do better on the column than pine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever design you finally work out I would love if you would follow up with a post after it is completed and tested to show us what you actually did and how well it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2020-12-18T01:14:43.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11345" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-19T21:05:00.350" Score="-1" ViewCount="173" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have  a customer who removed a wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I patched the floor with red oak and applied the Minwax stain he said was used on the old floors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It matched almost perfect when applied but within an hour started turning a dark brown!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9592" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-12-21T08:51:43.960" LastActivityDate="2021-09-17T11:04:10.280" Title="Stain drastically changed color as it dried" Tags="|staining|hardwood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11346" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11347" CreationDate="2020-12-20T05:21:14.347" Score="3" ViewCount="1358" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m using Minwax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner. I’m trying to find information on whether, after drying, my surface will be safe to prepare food on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to follow up with Minwax Wood Finish (Oil based) if it’s safe for food, and probably Polyurethane, if that’s safe for food too, and assuming i actually need it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve found that the pre stain contains “modified linseed oil/hydrocarbon resin” and “mineral spirits”. I’m having trouble finding whether those are safe near food after drying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main concern is that the cans of stain and pre stain have lots of scary warnings about brain damage and cancer and other things, which has me on this quest to determine whether it’s safe to use on surfaces in my kitchen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just want to have a way to verify that they’re safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of a source that can verify that the pre stain is safe in the kitchen, after drying?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9593" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2020-12-20T20:37:05.493" LastActivityDate="2020-12-22T10:31:11.320" Title="Is a Pre-Stained Surface Food Safe?" Tags="|wood|staining|plywood|surface-preparation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11346" CreationDate="2020-12-20T06:19:01.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m using Minwax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner. I’m trying to find information on whether, after drying, my surface will be safe to prepare food on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I wouldn't use it.&lt;/strong&gt; A pre-stain conditioner implies that you'll be following that with a stain of some sort, and then a finish. So to be safe, you'll need to be certain that not only this product, but also the ones that follow it are safe for food contact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Food prep surfaces take a lot more abuse than do most other indoor woodworking projects. Cutting, scraping, scrubbing, and contact with water, detergents, acids, oils, etc. are all likely to damage any finish you're considering. Furthermore, any film-forming finish you're considering, even if food safe, will be compromised and could end up trapping pathogens. For that reason, &lt;strong&gt;wood surfaces meant for food preparation are generally left unfinished&lt;/strong&gt; or treated only with a food-safe oil, such as food-grade mineral oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;what if it’s a shelf only meant to hold equipment that comes into contact with food?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A shelf for storing equipment is a very different situation from a surface that comes in direct contact with food. In the case of a shelf, you only need to be concerned about substances transferred to the food by the equipment that was on the shelf. Most sources agree that any commercial finish is &amp;quot;food safe&amp;quot; once it has fully cured, which means that the finish won't transfer to your food just from contact. The idea is that even if the finish contains harmful chemicals, they're locked in the polymerized finish. If those chemicals won't transfer to food, they won't transfer to equipment that will later contact food. Assuming you're going to finish the shelf after the pre-stain conditioner is dry, the finish will form a barrier between the conditioner and the equipment, so the makeup of the conditioner is even less a concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.finewoodworking.com/project-guides/finishing/food-safe-finish-considerations&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fine Woodworking&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;em&gt;According to the FDA database of approved ingredients for finishes and adhesives, all modern unpigmented finishes (ones that don’t contain lead, mercury or toxic colorants) are technically considered food safe IF they are applied in reasonable amounts and allowed to cure properly.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bottom line:&lt;/strong&gt; The pre-finish conditioner is probably fine to use on a shelf or even on surfaces that might come into contact with food or food prep equipment, especially if you cover it with a finish afterward. But I still think it's best to avoid using products like that on surfaces used for cutting, pounding, scrubbing, and other food preparation operations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2020-12-20T20:53:09.593" LastActivityDate="2020-12-20T20:53:09.593" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10843" CreationDate="2020-12-20T06:30:53.547" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried hand planing, but it's just not working;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The direction you're planing makes a big difference. If you're getting a lot of tearout in one direction, turn the log around and try the opposite direction. Think about petting a cat: if you pet from the tail end toward the head, you're going against the fur and the cat gets upset, but if you pet from the head toward the tail you're going with the direction of the fur and the cat is more likely to be happy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2020-12-20T06:30:53.547" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11345" CreationDate="2020-12-20T06:45:42.980" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It matched almost perfect when applied but withing an hour stated turning a dark brown!! Any idea why!?!?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oak easily develops gray or black stains from contact with iron, and I could imagine it looking dark brown if there's also a dark-colored stain involved. Did you use steel wool during application of the stain? Was the can the stain was in at all rusty or corroded?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, is it possible that the rest of the floor is some other type of wood, possibly even just a different type of oak, that might have reacted differently to the stain? And did you wipe away the excess stain? And how old is the stain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2020-12-20T06:45:42.980" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11331" CreationDate="2020-12-20T21:43:23.313" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks to be some sort of fabric or material that has long since hardened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the chair for markings that could tell you who manufactured the chair. That could help you find other examples that in turn might help you figure out what the groove was for. There were probably a lot of companies that made chairs like yours a century or more ago. Two that seem iconic are &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.justcollecting.com/miscellania/sikes-chair-company-furniture&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sikes Chair Company&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gunlocke.com&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gunlocke&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me, it looks like the groove might have been used to secure some trim, like a leather-wrapped chord, or a full leather or cloth seat. Here's &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gunlocke.com/images/bank-england-upholstered-swivel&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gunlocke's modern version&lt;/a&gt; of a swivel chair that looks like yours:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8cwMD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8cwMD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bank of England chair&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see how the leather cover seems to be held in place by a bead that's likely pushed into a groove in the seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about chiseling out what remains and then routing a 3/8ths piece of oak to put into the open gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if your chair has any value as is; you might want to check that out before you attempt any restoration or modification. Aside from preserving value, it's your chair and you should do what you like. I think I'd probably remove the remaining material and hope to figure out what it is, and then try to replicate the original.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2020-12-20T21:43:23.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11351" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11352" CreationDate="2020-12-20T23:11:00.093" Score="5" ViewCount="1372" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made a wooden ironing board out of hard maple, which I'm going to cover with some cloth and batting.  I'm wondering whether I should apply a finish to the wood.  Ironing is going to create steam, which could introduce moisture and warp the board.  But ironing will also create heat, which could take off the finish and stain the cover or (worse) the material being ironed (steam irons can heat to between 350-425 F / 180-220 C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've searched on this site already for information about water- and heat-resistant finishes, but haven't found anything specifically for the steam/heat created by ironing.  I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://ask.metafilter.com/147326/I-want-to-make-a-great-ironing-board-not-warp-one&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this old discussion on MetaFilter&lt;/a&gt; but it contained conflicting advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9596" LastEditorUserId="9596" LastEditDate="2021-01-04T18:41:35.563" LastActivityDate="2021-01-04T18:41:35.563" Title="How to finish a wooden ironing board?" Tags="|finishing|finish-selection|water-protection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11351" CreationDate="2020-12-21T08:21:30.530" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering whether I should apply a finish to the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Great question! I think the best place to start is with what other people have done. I did a little searching and found a few examples of old wooden ironing boards on sites like eBay and Pinterest, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07L6PVM8N&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a new Amish-made one&lt;/a&gt; on Amazon. The new one says the legs are finished but the top is not, &amp;quot;for safe ironing.&amp;quot; The older ones also look unfinished to me, but it's hard to be certain because the patina that comes with age and use might have started out as some kind of finish. All the boards I saw look to be fairly flat, though, even ones that are quite old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ironing is going to create steam, which could introduce moisture and warp the board. But ironing will also create heat, which could take off the finish and stain the cover...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you're right to be concerned about the heat. I know that there are some polyurethanes that can tolerate up to 300°F, but the temperature from a clothes iron starts at around 300°F for low settings (e.g. silk) and goes up to 450°F or so for the linen setting. Even though there will be some fabric and batting (and clothing!) between the iron and board, I don't think most finishes would handle that kind of heat well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The worry about steam seems less likely to be a problem. The steam introduced by ironing is pretty short-lived -- it comes in bursts, and it's unlikely to send moisture much beyond the surface of the wood. And steam can actually dry wood out -- by definition, steam is water that's above the 212°F boiling point, so in some cases it can cause moisture in the wood to vaporize and escape. But again, the steam from ironing comes in fairly short bursts and is very localized, so it seems unlikely to cause any major change in the board. If you're really concerned, you could add a couple of crosswise pieces on the back of the board to hold it flat (just be sure to use screws instead of glue, and to elongate the holes a bit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it were my ironing board, I'd leave it unfinished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2020-12-21T08:21:30.530" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1385" CreationDate="2020-12-21T12:53:47.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was taught that the width of the box side must be an increment of the finger width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, if you decide to have 1/4&amp;quot; wide fingers, then the width of the workpiece must be an increment of 1/4&amp;quot; (e.g., a whole number, like 3&amp;quot;,etc., or 3 1/4, 3 1/2, or 3 3/4...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, first you determine what width you want the fingers to be (for the sake of simplicity, I keep the finger width equal to the thickness of the boards I am joining), then determine what the height of the box wall will be, based on the increments of the finger width chosen. You then cut your stock to the width calculated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9597" LastActivityDate="2020-12-21T12:53:47.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11354" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11361" CreationDate="2020-12-21T14:27:44.343" Score="1" ViewCount="231" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using a veritas small plow plane and I'm finding my grooves are a bit trapezoid shaped and not square to the reference face and edge:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8oT2w.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8oT2w.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Material is Sapele.  This is a longer piece (~48&amp;quot;). Some parts of the groove are better than others.  The ends seem particularly bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect part of the issue may be taking too heavy a cut with the 1/4 cutter.  On the Veritas plow the 'wavy washer' doesn't seem to make contact with the outside of the blade to hold it against the bed, it seems to rely solely on the lever for that with the smaller cutters.  This seems to cause the cutter to cant a bit and go sideways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also going to try an auxiliary fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else can I try to aid in my diagnosis?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8429" LastActivityDate="2020-12-22T00:19:42.293" Title="Preventing poor groove geometry with plow plane?" Tags="|hand-tools|hand-planing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11355" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-21T14:54:43.753" Score="1" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some background:&#xA;I'm making two chess sets, connected via internet. The pieces have magnets, and the board has magnetic sensors, so when a piece is moved on one board, it is dragged with an electromagnet to the right square on the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem:&#xA;I laid down some veneer to make the checkerboard on 3/16&amp;quot; plywood. The maple was slightly taller than the walnut, meaning that the walnut didn't get clamped as nicely as I would have liked. I knew this before gluing, so I put a towel down between the board and weights to more evenly distribute the weight, but it wasn't quite enough. The final product is mostly really good, especially after some sanding, but there are several squares with bubbles in the walnut that I can push down ever so slightly. I can't redo it because the other side of this board has 80 sensors which took many hours to put into place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question:&#xA;Is there any finish that would work well to soak into the wood and bond the walnut to the plywood where it's coming up? Some kind of epoxy resin? Or would regular varnish do the job?&#xA;Bonus points if the finish is low friction against felt :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9598" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2020-12-22T09:57:04.377" LastActivityDate="2020-12-22T09:57:04.377" Title="Veneer and Air Bubbles" Tags="|finishing|glue|veneer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11355" CreationDate="2020-12-21T16:51:17.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you used PVA glue to attach your squares to the substrate, you can reheat the glue with an iron to soften/melt it and get the problem squares to adhere to the substrate better. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.oakwoodveneer.com/ironon.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's an article about using this method intentionally to make iron-on veneer&lt;/a&gt;, and there are some good tips there such as using a piece of kraft paper between the iron and the veneer to avoid scorching. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyvinyl_alcohol&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PVA melts at 392°F&lt;/a&gt;, so an iron set between 400°F (cotton) and 450°F (linen) should do the job. If you want to avoid disturbing neighboring squares, you could also use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rcplanet.com/tools/covering-tools/hangar-9-sealing-iron-han101/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dry mount tacking iron&lt;/a&gt;, which is much smaller than a household clothes iron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2020-12-21T16:51:17.223" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11357" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11358" CreationDate="2020-12-21T16:53:03.910" Score="0" ViewCount="358" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to build a wood structure with the domes at top. I need some suggestion on how to build the domes at the top. Can you please let me know how they are built ? They look curved. How can I curve wood like that ? Please see the below picture there are three domes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aySNX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aySNX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9599" LastActivityDate="2020-12-21T17:09:32.177" Title="Curved Dome shaped wood" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11357" CreationDate="2020-12-21T17:09:32.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wood can take any form: it's not inherently flat, we just cut it into shapes with flat sides because that tends to be useful. But bowl turners, for example, often start with a chunk of a log and cut a curved bowl from the log without first cutting the wood flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three ways that you can end up with curved wood:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It can grow that way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It can be cut into the curve that you want.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It can be cut into flat pieces and then bent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A tree is unlikely to grow into the dome shape that you want, so that leaves you with cutting and bending as options. It's hard to tell what the scale of the pictured piece is; if it's small, like something you can hold in your hands, then the domes were likely carved along with the many other carved features. Or, the individual facets may have been cut separately and glued up. If it's large, like a bed, then perhaps the facets were bent, cut to shape, and then glued together to form the dome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2020-12-21T17:09:32.177" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11359" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-21T18:52:36.093" Score="0" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it okay to use two different types of woods for building a pergola?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about using 6x6 pecky cedar for pergola posts and use redwood for beams and rafters. Is this considered Ok?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9600" LastActivityDate="2020-12-21T18:55:33.770" Title="using two different types of woods for outdoor pergola" Tags="|wood|outdoor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11359" CreationDate="2020-12-21T18:55:33.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see absolutely no reason not to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some rare circumstances where the different expansion/contraction rates of different woods can cause issues (i.e. a checkerboard end-grain cutting board), but for construction purposes you can generally mix and match species however you see fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2020-12-21T18:55:33.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11354" CreationDate="2020-12-22T00:19:42.293" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard to tell from just the results, but I would suspect that this is a body mechanics issue, not a setup issue with the plane.  (If the issue was that the blade was slanted relative to the plane body and all else was correct you'd still cut a groove straight down, but the side of the cutter would start hitting the corner of the groove.)  Due to their narrow width plow planes are difficult to keep straight up and down.  This model in particular is known to be hard to control due to the short height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding a larger auxiliary fence will help, but in many situations the size of the fence is limited because you still have to clamp the work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest focusing on the basics of your body position.  Use a mirror in front of you to make sure your plane handle stays vertical.  Keep your wrist, elbow, and shoulder steady and move from your hips.  Keep your elbow in line with the plane.  Keep your index finger of your dominant hand out on the adjustment mechanisms, and your non-dominant hand on both the plane nose and the work piece (careful of splinters though).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2020-12-22T00:19:42.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11362" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11364" CreationDate="2020-12-22T05:28:10.857" Score="3" ViewCount="373" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to build a floating shelf on a plan I've put together as sort of a hybrid of many different DIY plans I found online. The top and side panels will be 3/4&amp;quot; (actual) thickness select pine boards (appearance boards). They have a very light almost white natural color. The bottom panel will be 1/4&amp;quot; pine project panel (plywood). It has sort of a yellowish natural color, darker than the other panels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to stain everything fairly dark, like an espresso color. Will I have a hard time getting the finished product to look uniform on all faces, given how much darker/yellower the plywood looks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also found a 1/4&amp;quot; sheet of birch project panel that looks almost identical to the pine boards in its natural shade. I'm wondering if that would be a better choice, but I know that different wood types probably accept the stain very differently, even if they look similar in color now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to do a bunch of tests anyway, just curious what advice anybody would have for me in general. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9604" LastActivityDate="2020-12-22T09:50:06.020" Title="Pine plywood (project panel) looks quite different than pine boards (select)" Tags="|staining|pine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11363" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-22T07:31:10.477" Score="0" ViewCount="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;First timer here (to forum and woodworking). I have two, 2&amp;quot; thick tree slices (&amp;quot;cookies&amp;quot;) that have a diameter of around 20&amp;quot;. I'm trying to turn them into end tables as a gift for my girlfriend. My plan is to dry them, take the&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Will coating the fresh cut slices in polyurethane keep them from drying and cracking over time? They were cut a few days ago. I see that Pentacryl might work for this, but others I've asked are saying that polyurethane will work fine and keep slices from cracking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For an end/side table, is epoxy or poly better as a finish? Does it matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there a good way to remove the bark from, and seal, the edges of the slices?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9606" LastActivityDate="2020-12-22T07:31:10.477" Title="How to coat and finish a fresh cut end grain cookie stop it from drying/cracking?" Tags="|polyurethane|table-making|green-wood|epoxy|live-edge|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2020-12-23T00:34:44.803" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11362" CreationDate="2020-12-22T09:50:06.020" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pine plywood (project panel) looks quite different than pine boards (select)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is quite normal, and unfortunately unavoidable, even with much higher quality plywood like Baltic-birch ply if the goal were to match it to some some solid birch. Partly is it simply because wood can vary (and sometimes &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But also the ply's surface is a veneer — and these days almost invariably a radially cut slice taken from the &lt;em&gt;edge&lt;/em&gt; of a spinning log by a gigantic knife, not a slice through a log (which would look like the surface of a board). So even when there is a good colour match, as there can be sometimes, the grain/figure is so very different the plywood screams &amp;quot;I'm different!&amp;quot; And as if that's not enough the slicing process means that the surface of plywood accepts most stains very differently to the same/similar solid wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to stain everything fairly dark, like an espresso color. Will I have a hard time getting the finished product to look uniform on all faces, given how much darker/yellower the plywood looks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're lucky as only going quite dark like this will easily allow the two materials to look more similar. But, it matters greatly what you're staining with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go with a conventional staining product, a liquid product that sinks into the product to colour it, then you'd have a much harder time than if you use something like &amp;quot;gel stain&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So-called &amp;quot;gel stain&amp;quot; is actually a coloured varnish that has been artificially thickened, and is so well suited to pine (a notoriously blotch-prone wood that is hard to stain evenly) that one finishing guru has quipped that it might as well be called &amp;quot;pine stain&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also found a 1/4&amp;quot; sheet of birch project panel that looks almost identical to the pine boards in its natural shade. I'm wondering if that would be a better choice&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It actually could be, if for no other reason that softwood plywood can be of such low quality. It's often only suited to rough work, or at best shop cabinetry (where appearance is of secondary importance to functionality).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-12-22T09:50:06.020" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11346" CreationDate="2020-12-22T10:31:11.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is a Pre-Stained Surface Food Safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. In fact &lt;em&gt;it's as safe as if you hadn't used it at all&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason is that pre-stain, IF you use it (see below), won't touch the food. So pretty much regardless of what it is it would be fine :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the thing is that &amp;quot;pre-stain conditioner&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;stain prep&amp;quot; and other similar products are usually nothing more than dilute versions of final finishes&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; which would routinely be used to finish wood surfaces for use in kitchens anyway&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. If they're safe for use as a topcoat/final finish they're safe to use &lt;em&gt;under&lt;/em&gt; stain and topcoat..... where they can't possibly come into contact with the food.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't use pre-stain unless you need to&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;As covered in previous Answers, pre-stain serves basically one function: to improve the evenness of conventional staining (i.e. using a penetrating stain) on blotch-prone woods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not using a blotch-prone wood you don't need to use — and actively don't want to use — such a product because it will limit the absorption of the stain (that's how they work) meaning you won't be able to get the full colouring potential from your chosen stain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note does not apply if you're using &amp;quot;gel stain&amp;quot; since this is not a penetrating stain but instead a coloured surface coating (generally, coloured jellied polyurethane).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; The Minwax product certainly is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; As covered in some previous Answers, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/7541/finishing-a-beech-desk-top-ikea-gerton-suitability-of-tung-oil/7542#7542&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt;, there's no evidence &lt;strong&gt;at all&lt;/strong&gt; that a fully dried and cured wood finish is in any way a risk for direct food contact. Additionally, if needed, as referenced in the Comment I added previously, most normal wood finishes are already passed for direct food contact in FDA guidelines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-12-22T10:31:11.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11366" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-22T23:35:24.947" Score="0" ViewCount="298" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to make a wooden stool, but I don't know how thick the legs need to be for it to be safe and sturdy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have 70x35mm pine and I plan on resawing it to get ~30x30mm legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that enough material? Are there any general guidelines on how thick stool legs should be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9609" LastActivityDate="2020-12-22T23:35:24.947" Title="Minimum leg dimensions for pine stool" Tags="|furniture|strength|pine|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11336" CreationDate="2020-12-23T14:44:17.610" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question mentions that you only have a circular saw. This makes me question what &lt;em&gt;other&lt;/em&gt; tools you might have access to. Be aware, though, that you can make jigs to help you with some tasks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This suggestion would require the following tools:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A hammer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A bench vise&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A drill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A looooong drill bit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A hacksaw or angle grinder with cutting wheel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest you make some internal reinforcement. Several people have suggested long screws or threaded rods. Have you considered installing a &amp;quot;hidden&amp;quot; support?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine you purchase some 1/4&amp;quot; steel round bar. Now cut it to length and bend a right angle into it, making an ell shape of rounded rod. Make two of these per shelf, times however-many shelves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, using your circ saw (and a narrow chisel, if you have one), make two grooves in the back (wall-facing side) of the spine. The grooves should be 1/2-3/4 inch apart, centered left-to-right. The grooves should be the width of the rod, and the depth of the rod. They should run from the bottom of the spine to the height of the top shelf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At each shelf, drill a hole inside each groove. The hole should be just slightly bigger than the rod. The hole should extend through the spine, into the shelves as far as you can possible make it reach. (For 12 inch deep shelves, see if you can make a 10&amp;quot; or more deep hole- they sell long drill bits.) The holes should be parallel to the shelves (obviously! otherwise the holes will come out the top/bottom) and at an appropriate angle to point at the front corners of the shelf. I believe this is about 55 degrees from the centerline of the shelf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is to insert the bent ell shapes into the groove in the spine, and into the hole in the shelf. You can then secure the bottom end of the ell shapes using epoxy or just screws and metal tabs or just screws carefully placed. The ell shapes are totally invisible from every direction except when the shelf is pulled away from the wall. They're customizable to the specifics of your shelf, and they should be something you can make with a few tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My local orange box sells 1/4&amp;quot; x 72 round rod for $5.87 (USD). Your drawing suggest a small distance between shelves - maybe 6&amp;quot;? So 18&amp;quot; of rod would bend into a 12&amp;quot; leg and a 6&amp;quot; leg nicely. Thus, you could get 4 ells, or 2 shelves, per unit. 5 shelves would cost &amp;lt; $20 to reinforce, plus any screws, drill bits, and other tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1925" LastActivityDate="2020-12-23T14:44:17.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11351" CreationDate="2020-12-23T14:58:23.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two suggestions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://easternwhitepine.org/shou-sugi-ban-japanese-technique-makes-pine-wood-waterproof-with-fire/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shou sugi ban&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; is an 18th-century Japanese technique of burning the outside of wood to preserve and waterproof it. As you might suspect, wood that has been deliberately burned is heat resistant, and it is also water resistant. However, standing water might be a problem, if your steam condenses and doesn't get wicked off by the cloth cover. You might want to engineer for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;My local orange box sells Rust-Oleum brand &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Specialty-12-oz-High-Heat-Satin-White-Spray-Paint-7751830/100189390&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;High Heat Satin White&lt;/a&gt; spray paint for use with ovens and BBQ grills. The product specifications claim it resists temperatures up to 1200 degrees (!). It is available in colors other than white, but for an ironing board, white seemed appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like either one of these could work for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1925" LastActivityDate="2020-12-23T14:58:23.510" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11369" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-24T21:58:43.983" Score="1" ViewCount="1121" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me if this is a oil sharpening stone or water sharpening stone? It was my grandfathers, and I would like to put it into action, but not sure exactly how.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mRNxP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mRNxP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;stone&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9615" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-07-26T23:13:15.213" LastActivityDate="2022-11-10T18:48:01.043" Title="Sharpening stone identification" Tags="|sharpening|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11370" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-25T19:42:33.533" Score="0" ViewCount="473" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I put a cup that had a bit of peppermint oil on the bottom of it on my table.  It must have dissolved and adhered the finish because the cup was firmly stuck to the table.  After removing it, there's a ring in the finish.  It's textured and it looks like at least some of the finish material is gone now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what type of finish was used on this table, unfortunately.  If I had to guess I'd say it was polyurethane.  I'm wondering whether I have any options to fix / improve the ring short of fully refinishing the table.  The table is in very good shape aside from this damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&amp;amp;ik=e8ee1120cb&amp;amp;attid=0.1&amp;amp;permmsgid=msg-f:1687079516986068255&amp;amp;th=1769b5e1d5cacd1f&amp;amp;view=fimg&amp;amp;sz=s0-l75-ft&amp;amp;attbid=ANGjdJ-kPAoM6Tq2fsveL4IcLquzBbXHKkfR5rP6uDPA1z1s5PYc_fhFrtItrbDioCBTFwjQDBdCRUwCX9cwqFsyPXseJ4s4MBzB7XChsR6t7VgrCdMbMFSi_2gYwg0&amp;amp;disp=emb&quot; alt=&quot;Table ring&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9617" LastActivityDate="2020-12-25T19:42:33.533" Title="Peppermint oil damaged table finish" Tags="|finishing|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11369" CreationDate="2020-12-26T17:18:34.337" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple answer: put some water on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have an old oil stone, then it probably still has some oil buried in the nooks and crannies. If you put water on it, some of that oil will probably lift off and make the water &amp;quot;oily&amp;quot;. You'll see various artifacts of water and oil - a film, a rainbow sheen, drops suspended in the water, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a water stone, well, you'll get nothing except maybe metal particles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1925" LastActivityDate="2020-12-26T17:18:34.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11373" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-26T21:16:19.917" Score="0" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a freestanding climbing wall and have a few questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My design is two triangle frames built from 2x6 (green) with plywood panels (red) attached to the frame with 2x4 studs on the back (blue). The climbing wall is 40 degrees overhanging.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZqlrX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZqlrX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main concern with the design is that all of the weight of the panels (~300lb) and climber (up to 200lb) goes onto the triangle frames, so they must be built absolutely solid. The small vertical panel at the bottom is not directly supporting any of the weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does this design look structurally sound, or are there any obvious things you would change?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The support legs will be mitered on the top, to attach to the angled frame. What is the best way to join the legs to the frame? Would pocket screws be sufficient?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xPLMV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xPLMV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you and appreciate any advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9618" LastActivityDate="2020-12-27T03:18:33.283" Title="Building a home climbing wall - questions" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11374" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-26T21:50:28.693" Score="1" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;I measured every thing correctly. All the legs of the bench were the same at thanksgiving but now are half an inch different at Christmas dinner. Is there a way to stop wood from expanding and/or contracting? Is there a way to keep fresh wood from warping even after the “bench” or furniture item is built? Please help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9622" LastActivityDate="2020-12-27T17:32:29.193" Title="Wood bench legs are uneven at Christmas but even at Thanksgiving" Tags="|wood|joinery|furniture|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11373" CreationDate="2020-12-27T03:18:33.283" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't done any calculations but I would expect that the timber sizes you've selected will be fine for this application, as long as you use thick enough ply (definitely at least half-inch - if it were me I'd probably go for 3/4&amp;quot;). I believe a standard house-framing 2x4 can support 30,000lbs+ &lt;em&gt;if&lt;/em&gt; it's loaded vertically. If something goes awry and it experiences lateral loading it will be much less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the framing configuration, I would add more diagonal bracing, including some out to the sides of the longest uprights to brace against lateral loading. If possible I would tie the whole structure together with a base-plate (2x4 or 2x6) on the floor running laterally from base to base of your tallest uprights. Pocket screws etc, may be sufficient but I would suggest that using metal joist/truss plates (like those used when building roof trusses etc.) at the joints will make things more durable and reliable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a rough idea of what I'd do, see this image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tBYWb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tBYWb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2020-12-27T03:18:33.283" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11374" CreationDate="2020-12-27T17:32:29.193" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to stop wood from expanding and/or contracting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main reason that wood changes dimensions is changes in moisture content; generally, it expands a bit in directions perpendicular to the grain direction in more humid summer months and contracts a bit in the same directions in the dryer winter months. There’s very little change in the direction parallel to the grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to prevent this movement is to seal the wood, so that moisture can’t get in or out of the wood. The more completely you seal the wood, the less movement you’ll see. However, most finishes don’t seal wood so completely that they stop seasonal movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to prevent the fluctuations in humidity. If you can keep the humidity constant, perhaps using a humidifier in dry months and a dehumidifier in humid months, there should be no movement. This is an option that you might find in museums, but not really practical in most homes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A third option is to not stop the movement at all, but rather to accept it and plan for it in your designs. This is by far the most common approach that woodworkers use. It’s the reason large panels often float in frames, and it’s why table tops aren’t glued to their bases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the legs of the bench were the same at thanksgiving but now are half an inch different at Christmas dinner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We really need more information to understand what’s going on here, but seasonal movement doesn’t sound like the culprit. Bench legs are usually created such that the grain runs vertically, parallel to the leg, and there’s no wood that shrinks 1/2” in that direction over the 14-18” of a bench leg. Furthermore, benches usually have four or more legs that all have the grain running in the same direction, so even if you did somehow build a bench where the grain runs horizontally in the legs, all the legs should be affected by seasonal movement the same way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More probable explanations for your problem are either that the rest of the bench warped or twisted, or that the floor isn’t flat. Even a small amount of twist could easily push opposite legs up or down, and with three legs on the floor all the change would appear to be in one leg. Likewise, a small hump in the floor could be magnified by the length of the bench. Try moving the bench to a different spot; if the problem remains, the bench has probably twisted. If the problem goes away, check the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2020-12-27T17:32:29.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11339" CreationDate="2020-12-27T18:02:27.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Epoxy is really an entire class of materials — there are lots of different types with different properties. If you can’t find information about the thermal resistance of the product you plan to use, you may need to test it yourself. You could coat a create some test samples by coating pieces of wood and then immersing them in boiling water for different periods to see how they hold up. There are high temperature epoxies, but I don’t know if there are any that are suitable for coating a sink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you’re worried about vibration, choose a disposal that’s designed to be quiet; those generally have a rubber connector that reduces vibration (and therefore noise). I doubt the vibration would enlarge the drain hole in any case. But do make sure that the epoxy coats not just the inside surface of the sink, but also the entire surface of the drain hole. The drain should be sealed completely with plumber’s putty, but you don’t want to risk any water contacting the bare wood. In fact, the whole bottom surface of the sink should also be sealed with epoxy to prevent seasonal movement — you never want to seal just one side of a piece of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2020-12-27T18:02:27.857" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11380" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11381" CreationDate="2020-12-27T20:57:14.100" Score="1" ViewCount="1072" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last winter I started replacing the casings on the doors and windows in my house and have continued this off and on over the summer and fall.  When the weather  turned colder this fall, the miters on all the casings I completed in the warm weather opened up. (See below photo).   The ones I made last winter are fine, as are those on interior doors regardless of when they were put together, so I’m pretty sure this has to do with wood contraction in the cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to repair these miters?  I was thinking of squirting in wood glue with a needle applicator, then filling and painting. Bad idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, what could I have done to prevent this in the first place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xOhtV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xOhtV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9629" LastActivityDate="2020-12-30T05:16:13.247" Title="Miters on window casings shrank with cold weather. How do I fix this?" Tags="|wood-movement|miter-joint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11380" CreationDate="2020-12-27T21:03:39.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not so much wood contracting in the cold, as wood contracting when it loses moisture. Depending on where you are, summer is probably more humid than winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd hit it with a bit of spackle and repaint. If you want less of this in the future, glue the joints thoroughly and backprime the trim. (Backpriming slows moisture loss/gain.) Some people will even use biscuits, but I'm not a huge fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2020-12-27T21:03:39.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11382" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-27T23:40:22.180" Score="2" ViewCount="332" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a desktop that I recently glued up that cupped. I was planning on hand planing the table top flat but want to be certain its not too cupped. When I balance a jointed board on the table top (see picture, I will pick up a longer straight edge before planing) the worst gap is about 3/32&amp;quot;.  This picture shows the underside of the panel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The desktop is made out of 1&amp;quot; cherry and the desk will be cut to 30&amp;quot;x60&amp;quot;.  The boards were at final thickness when I glued up. I have dominos every 8-10&amp;quot;.  There doesn't appear to be any noticeable bow. The table top will be attached to the leg assemblies with expansion washers, so I'm not planning on that generating a lot of force to pull it flat. The panel has been stable over the last week or so without any more noticeable movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have #4 and #5 smoothers and a #5 scrub plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this too cupped to simply plane to flat? Any pointers on the approach if planing is viable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: What about routing grooves to fit 2-3 pieces of c-channel to pull the desktop flat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The warping is almost certainly from using plan-sawn lumber and failing to alternate grain direction on 3 of 4 boards because of the faces I wanted showing on the desk top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sm2Hw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sm2Hw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9630" LastEditorUserId="9630" LastEditDate="2020-12-28T16:12:10.260" LastActivityDate="2020-12-29T10:54:58.800" Title="Planing to correct cupping in panel (desk top)" Tags="|tabletop|panel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11383" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11384" CreationDate="2020-12-28T04:16:34.657" Score="2" ViewCount="267" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just purchased a Dewalt DWS715 miter saw. I have never used one in my life, so naturally I am carefully reading the entire manual (&lt;a href=&quot;https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/f1/f1f14375-c035-422c-87ac-87a5e9b6c76d.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is &amp;quot;miter lock knob&amp;quot; which securely locks the miter adjustment in place (note that this is in addition to the detents at various angle which also to some extent fix the miter, though less securely). On page 4 of the manual, it says to lock a handful of various lock knobs before transporting the saw. Then it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;WARNING: The miter lock knob should be used only when carrying or storing the saw. NEVER use the lock knob for any cutting operation.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought this was weird when I first read it. Now I've got further in the manual where they describe actual cutting, and there are multiple places where it makes it sound like you &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; use that lock knob when cutting, which seems like a direct contradiction to the above. On page 6, explaining how to set your miter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Miter Control (Fig. A)&#xA;The miter lock knob  5  and miter detent latch  6  allow you to miter your saw 50° left and right.&#xA;To miter the saw, unlock miter lock knob  5  by rotating the knob counterclockwise, squeeze the&#xA;miter detent latch  6  and set the miter angle desired on the miter scale. &lt;strong&gt;Lock miter lock knob by&#xA;rotating clockwise until tight.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And on page 7, explaining cutting operations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Miter crosscuts are made with the miter arm at some angle other than zero. This angle is often&#xA;45° for making corners, but can be set anywhere from zero to 50° left or right. &lt;strong&gt;After selecting the&#xA;desired miter angle, be sure to lock miter lock knob.&lt;/strong&gt; Make the cut as described above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am going to assume that I &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; tighten the miter lock knob before every cut. Correct? Any idea what the bit on page 4 is trying to say?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9604" LastActivityDate="2020-12-28T14:11:59.363" Title="Confusing warning in manual for Dewalt DWS715 miter saw" Tags="|safety|power-tools|miter-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11383" CreationDate="2020-12-28T14:11:59.363" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a similar saw and looking at your manual I think they meant to say don't use the head lock knob / lock down pin while cutting.  That pin is meant to lock the arm in place in the down position so it can't move (which would make cutting impossible, and the only ways I can think to even try would be very dangerous).  You push that pin in (and lock the arm) when you aren't using the saw or when you want to pick the saw up by the handle on top of the arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, someone didn't double check what they labeled everything vs how they referred to it in the manual.  Also, I found some other versions of the manual online and they appear to have removed that section and corrected it in other places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6201" LastActivityDate="2020-12-28T14:11:59.363" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11382" CreationDate="2020-12-29T10:54:58.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this too cupped to simply plane to flat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not at all. Obviously you &lt;em&gt;want&lt;/em&gt; the top a given thickness, that's why you used the boards that you did. But it doesn't have to be that exact thickness to function. And when planing by hand or by machine it's not uncommon to encounter some tricky grain that leads to unexpected tearout, where subsequently material needs to be removed to fix this (if you can't live with it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how thick a top, or panel, &lt;em&gt;needs&lt;/em&gt; to be can be determined by circumstance to some degree. If you absolutely had to you could take this down by half without it being too much effort&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, although of course you want to remove as little as necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any pointers on the approach if planing is viable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally if you want to remove a lot of material by hand planing you traverse first — go straight across or on the diagonal&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; — then go along the grain taking a lighter cut with the same plane to flatten further, finishing flattening with a jointer or other long plane (a long plane is not absolutely necessary for this, just desirable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Planing is completed using a smoother of course. But note that it is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; common in Western woodworking for the smoothing plane to be the last thing to touch the surface. While it's great if you can finish-plane things some scraping and/or sanding is absolutely routine and perfectly acceptable to achieve a finished surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: What about routing grooves to fit 2-3 pieces of c-channel to pull the desktop flat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could do that but a wood-only solution of long standing is to install battens on the underside and screw it firmly to those. Presumably these would be hidden by the apron so although more clunky and plainly visible if you go underneath the table they won't change the aesthetics to the day-to-day observer. &lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; either way, some of the screws have to be installed in slots to allow for movement. Generally you use a simple clearance hole in the centre and two elongated holes outside of this, but you can work outwards from one edge if you prefer&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2439/stabilizer-for-softwood-tabletop-that-bows/2441#2441&quot;&gt;previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;, which also includes the &lt;em&gt;gulp&lt;/em&gt; solution to this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another woodworker solution, one often used historically for example on drawing boards and draughting tables to help prevent bowing, would be to have the battens slide into dovetailed grooves which removes the need for screws — the dovetailed battens are slid in dry, or glued at one end only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Preventing this in future&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Obviously the first step here is to ensure your edges are jointed perfect square (or at complementary angles that cancel each other out) as you indicate you did. After that it becomes a clamping issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The usual advice for this is to use the same number of clamps top and bottom to balance out the tendency of clamps to induce a bow, although fewer clamps across the width and two or more cauls can also ensure a glue-up ends up nice and flat. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/229/what-is-a-good-way-to-prevent-jointed-tabletops-from-bowing-when-tightening-fast/241#241&quot;&gt;early Answer&lt;/a&gt; from here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Using a scrub plane or other roughing plane (a fore, or a 'roughing jack').&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Often both diagonals which helps to maintain, or establish, flatness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; An approach taken for attaching demi-lune and other hall tables where you want the back edge to remain in a fixed positio, so any contraction or expansion in the top leads to the front edge only moving in and out (see image bottom of &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/908/what-general-considerations-do-i-need-to-take-into-account-for-wood-movement/910#910&quot;&gt;this Answer&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2020-12-29T10:54:58.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11386" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11390" CreationDate="2020-12-29T11:24:37.527" Score="1" ViewCount="324" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you store a synthetic waterstone permanently in water? Will it degrade the stone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I was last doing woodwork classes the school had a water cooled rotary grind stone/wheel, and I remember that it was important to remove the water resevoir after use and let the stone drip dry for a few minutes while still turning. Some past student had left the water on, and the half of the stone in the water had swollen unevenly, making the whole grinding wheel asymmetric. Could something similar happen to a modern, flat waterstone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most waterstones need to be soaked in water for between 5 and 15 minutes before use. But I've seen a video where the demonstrator just seems to splash 2 or 3 handfuls of water over his stones (but I suspect because he sharpens many times a day they would get plenty of water).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For context (although I'm not sure it's important) My shed/workshop doesn't have running water. I can tote a big bottle of water down there, it would be easiest to simply store the stone in a clip-lock plastic box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="155" LastEditorUserId="155" LastEditDate="2021-01-27T14:54:58.600" LastActivityDate="2021-01-27T14:54:58.600" Title="Can you store a synthetic waterstone in water permanently?" Tags="|sharpening|storage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2021-01-26T14:34:43.123" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11387" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-29T15:47:26.773" Score="0" ViewCount="136" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am coating a pine mantlepiece with gloss polyurethane. I used interior/exterior poly for my 1st &amp;amp; second coats for protection from sun exposure. Because of the longer drying time 24/48 hours there are quite a bit of dust nibs. Can I use a faster drying interior poly (2 hours) as my top coat or are the two types incompatible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9636" LastActivityDate="2022-05-31T04:08:55.880" Title="Will faster drying interior polyurethane work over a layer of slow drying exterior poly" Tags="|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11386" CreationDate="2020-12-29T17:54:20.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My personal experience leads me to say yes you can. I've been storing my waterstones in a plastic tote just as you mentioned for 10+ years now and there have been no issues of swelling or degradation. But that may not be the case for all waterstones as there are a variety of them available including different materials and, of course, grit. The main thing I've had to deal with is nasty smelling water. I've mitigated that by using distilled water and adding a tablespoon of bleach every now and then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First recommendation is to check if the manufacturer of your stones provides storage recommendations. If they don't, see if a similar manufacturer does (compare similar grits and composition). If you're paying reasonable prices (subjective) then you're probably using synthetic stones. Most sources seem to make a distinction between coarse and medium grit being ok to store submerged while keeping the finer grits (often called finishing stones) stored dry and wetted somewhere between 10 and 20 mins before sharpening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2074" LastEditorUserId="2074" LastEditDate="2021-01-25T22:03:16.513" LastActivityDate="2021-01-25T22:03:16.513" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11386" CreationDate="2020-12-29T19:13:50.507" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My shed/workshop doesn't have running water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's also unheated, then you definitely don't want to store your stones in water because as soon as that water freezes, your stones will be destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5190" LastActivityDate="2020-12-29T19:13:50.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11392" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11460" CreationDate="2020-12-30T00:19:13.977" Score="1" ViewCount="323" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have inherited a wood lathe (Spiegel &amp;quot;Precision Bilt&amp;quot; Model 87B630).  The tail stock uses an 0.81&amp;quot; (assuming this is 13/16&amp;quot;) diameter keyed shaft, and the live center screws into it with a 1/2-20 thread.  I am trying to source a drill chuck to mount on the tail stock, but I don't know how to describe what I'm looking for.  The shaft is definitely not tapered and is prevented from rotating by a set screw and keyway.  I believe the lathe dates from the 60's.  Was this a standard design that is no longer used, and if so, what it is called?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zlg3p.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zlg3p.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Spiegel Model 87B630 Tail Stock&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yomcP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yomcP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Threaded shaft&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fWMWU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fWMWU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Live center threads&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8547" LastEditorUserId="8547" LastEditDate="2021-01-23T16:03:56.053" LastActivityDate="2021-01-23T16:03:56.053" Title="Identification of vintage wood lathe tail stock with 1/2-20 threaded arbor" Tags="|tool-identification|lathe|lathe-chuck|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11380" CreationDate="2020-12-30T05:16:13.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, what could I have done to prevent this in the first place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't use mitre joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love mitre joints as much as anyone, but one has to be aware of why those mitre joints fail.  When you built those frames you were undoubtedly careful to cut perfect 45 degree angles, proudly fit two pieces together and checked their fit with a square and proudly thought to yourself, &amp;quot;man o man, I am THE craftsman!&amp;quot; (I have done the same thing many times.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the favorite responses in this stack is to comment on the shrinkage or expansion of wood across grain due to changes in humidity.  Indeed, that is most likely what is at work in your window casings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a mitre joint the geometry changes when the width of the board changes. Sure, a right angle cut will remain 90 degrees (assuming the grain is parallel to one leg of the angle and the other leg is perpendicular to the grain). But if you measure the perfect 45 degree angle that you cut after humidity does its thing, it is no longer 45 degrees.  Recall that both legs of a 45, 45 degree right triangle are equal in length.  Now the legs of that formerly perfect angle are no longer equal and the actual angle might be as much as 1/2 degree, making the opening twice as wide or up to 1 degree, very noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In response to your suspicion that the movement is due to thermal expansion and contraction, you might be right.  I did a little internet surfing and found that the coefficient of thermal expansion for for pine perpendicular to the grain is about ten times as much as parallel with the grain. (For oak, the two coefficients are almost equal to one another.)  You commented that the interior door frames are giving you no problems.  Perhaps because the interior temperature and humidity are relatively stable throughout the year, keeping the changes in the size of mitre cuts small enough to prevent opening of the joints.  Of course, at the windows everything turns cold so the relative changes parallel and perpendicular to grain might be enough to cause the joint to open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of your windows, some sort of butt joint or lap joint would not develop the opening, but alas, would not be as cool as the mitre joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2020-12-30T05:16:13.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11387" CreationDate="2020-12-31T03:27:08.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since it has already been a day since your last coat coat, the polyurethane should be done drying (along with some curing) so you can safely apply another coat of polyurethane if it has the same base (oil/water).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There might be some issues if you apply different polyurethane (with the same base) within 2 hours since there will be chemical bonding between the two layers but that seems unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If more than 2 hours have passed but less than a day has gone by you should also avoid new coats since the difference in curing between coats might cause some weird patters to show up once it's all done curing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are mixing between bases (oil/water) ideally you would wait a month, or more. That way you can be sure that it's done curing and won't have any interactions between the different polyurethane layers. Since it's been a few days you might be able to get away with just applying the new coat after some light sanding with 220 sandpaper (I would do this anyway to knock down those dust spots). However, there is chance you might get a weird texture/cracking in the finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9640" LastEditorUserId="9640" LastEditDate="2021-01-06T01:15:00.887" LastActivityDate="2021-01-06T01:15:00.887" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11392" CreationDate="2021-01-01T20:31:31.290" Score="-1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to source a drill chuck to mount on the tail stock, but I don't know how to describe what I'm looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know how to describe it either, but it'd be simple to adapt a standard chuck to fit your lathe. Drill chucks are typically connected to a lathe or drill press using an arbor with a Morse taper on one end and a Jacobs taper on the other, with the latter fitting a recess in the chuck. Here's &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.toolots.com/bodee-mt2-jt3-drill-chuck-arbor-in-prime-quality.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;one example&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qPGep.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qPGep.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bodee MT2 to JT3 chuck arbor&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could buy an arbor with the right Jacobs taper for whatever chuck you want to use (one will likely come with the chuck), and then cut the Morse taper off and drill and tap for the threads on your headstock. As a practical matter, it might be best to have a machine shop do the work for you: once the arbor is cut you'll want to mill the cut face flat and square to the arbor's axis, and it's critical to center the tapped hole precisely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2021-01-01T20:31:31.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11315" CreationDate="2021-01-02T23:03:35.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ended up using wood glue, the existing screw, and a 6&amp;quot; mending plate across the bottom face of the broken member.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first task was to clean the old glue from the cut face next to the break, which I did using a 1/4&amp;quot; hand chisel and flat rasp. Here is an image before cleaning:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZzhEr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZzhEr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Old glue on cut face of member&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the overall strength of the repaired member will be guaranteed by the metal plate, the glue in this case is mostly to keep the mended joint from twisting or shifting out of alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the broken face, which has some nice rough edges and a nubbin that fits into the other side, will provide a much stronger glued joint than the cut face of the original lap joint. For that reason, and because I want to avoid removing wood and shortening the member, I didn't attempt to remove glue that had penetrated into the grain and just roughed it up a bit with the rasp to get a little more surface area. Here's the result:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kwsou.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kwsou.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cut face after cleaning off old glue&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I removed the old screw and noted that it was in passing condition and not loose at all in the leg itself. My goal with this repair is to put the brace back together while preserving as much as possible the condition of the rest of the table, in case its next owner wants to restore it by having a new brace made. The best way to do that while making the repair less noticeable is to reuse the screw and hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, I glued and clamed the broken piece in place using a ratchet strap on the opposite legs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4cdNs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4cdNs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Clamping with a ratchet strap&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the table still inverted, I checked to make sure there was enough squeeze-out to give me confidence I had used enough glue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KSYts.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KSYts.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Inverted glue squeeze out&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I wiped the excess glue with a damp towel and started to drill pilot holes for the mending plate. Below are two images of the pilot holes with and without the plate, showing their location relative to the lap cuts, the break, and the screw that reinforces the lap joint from underneath. The break is on the left side in these images:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/42pve.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/42pve.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bracket dry fit&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7LTdX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7LTdX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pilot holes&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hole spacing on the plate isn't ideal. If I screw into the wood too close to the reinforcing screw, the break or any of the other three lap cuts, I risk splitting the oak even with my pilot holes. I decided to omit one of the middle screws so that the other middle screw would be in a good spot. This brace isn't designed to hold weight, it just needs to carry compressive and tensile loads along its length, so three screws—one in the lap area and another on each side—should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually I would start screws in every hole before tightening any of them but in this case I fully tightened the two screws on the right (the one in the joint and the one on the opposite side from the break) before starting the last screw. The reason is that, when I used my punch to set locations for the pilot holes, I tried to punch dead center on the two holes on the right but offset the punch on the leftmost hole just a bit more to the left of center (away from the joint). This way, the last screw would act to pull the wood pieces together across the joint, keeping it tight; and when someone next sits at the table and rests their feet on the brace, that screw should be a little less likely to shear off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After drilling the pilot holes, they all look pretty close to dead on, so I may not actually have achieved this pre-loading. However, I certainly avoided offsetting the hole in the other direction, which would have had a much bigger impact in terms of pulling the joint apart; so I feel good about the result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After starting and tightening the last screw in the bracket, which I did by hand, I replaced the old screw at the leg. It had been pretty easy to get out with no brace wood in there, but with the legs clamped it was a considerable effort to tighten back down again. I regretted a bit not soaping the threads, but I'd certainly rather have things tight than loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an image of the break from above after righting the table. I pushed and prodded the brace a bit and I am very pleased with how strong it feels, despite the condition of the wood at the leg and the use of the old screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E9KUT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E9KUT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Glued face&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I gave it about 90 minutes of clamping (red Titebond says 30 minutes on the label, but you can never be too safe) and called it good. I'm happy with the result; I think it'll be easier to sell now at an aggressive price than it would have been with a piece broken off, I think it'll hold up well for the next owner, and I think it's still just as possible to do a good thorough restoration job now as it was before I made my repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9555" LastEditorUserId="9555" LastEditDate="2021-01-03T00:00:10.463" LastActivityDate="2021-01-03T00:00:10.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11399" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-03T15:23:53.363" Score="2" ViewCount="451" Body="&lt;p&gt;I inherited a router and stand from a neighbor who passed away. Nice router and stand, so I'd like to use it. It has an older model Sears router (315.17380) with a fixed shank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bits are changed by unscrewing the bolt, so the bits themselves don't have a shank. It came with one bit. I searched the internet and can't find that style of bit. They only come with shanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these types of router bits still sold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UA0iH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UA0iH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;router in table&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5PtMY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5PtMY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bit and collet&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9659" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2021-01-05T07:47:23.147" LastActivityDate="2021-01-05T17:01:25.683" Title="Router bit without shank" Tags="|router-bit|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11399" CreationDate="2021-01-03T17:47:57.950" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe you may be mistaken,  I see a collet nut and presumably collet nuts can be turned. It is very possible that the shank of the bit in it is stuck after many years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found the manual online  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1201757/Crafstman-315-17380.html#manual&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;Page 3 shows the bit changing instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Click on &lt;a href=&quot;http://vintagemachinery.org/files/PDF/Craftsman/315-17380.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this  link&lt;/a&gt; to download a PDF of the manual&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I owned one, same model i believe, and it definitely had a collet and i could change bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G5gjmFmiCxI&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube video&lt;/a&gt; of a similar model being resurrected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z7b10.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z7b10.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2917" LastEditorUserId="2917" LastEditDate="2021-01-03T18:13:41.303" LastActivityDate="2021-01-03T18:13:41.303" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11401" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11405" CreationDate="2021-01-04T12:55:52.290" Score="2" ViewCount="201" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bunch of Douglas fir planks left over from another project. These were originally intended for outdoor use and are treated with some kind of preservative that leaves a colored stain (they come from 2 batches, one black and one green) on the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what kind of preservative exactly. Probably some sort of copper-naphthalene or similar solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As they are quite beefy (a foot wide and an inch thick) they would make nice book-shelves when I re-do the living room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had the planks in my storage shed for over a year. There isn't any smell from the preservative, not even when planing/sanding the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stain doesn't go very deep into the wood. I would plane them down to get rid of the color and expose the natural wood tone. I tried that on a test-piece and taking of 1/16 inch on each side gets rid off any visible stain completely.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;To finish the shelves I would preferably use a (very) light woodstain and/or colorless wax to leave the wood as natural looking as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I'm worried about the preservative being possibly toxic. Like when frequently touched or slowly releasing fumes that linger in the room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, is this safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, can I somehow seal the wood? Preferably without loosing the natural color/grain or making the planks look very glossy (I really don't like the look of a poly-urethane coating).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9088" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-01-05T10:13:06.397" LastActivityDate="2021-01-05T11:07:32.203" Title="Can preservative-treated Douglas fir safely be used indoors (after planing the outer layer off)" Tags="|finishing|outdoor|toxicity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11399" CreationDate="2021-01-05T08:10:53.143" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You normally shouldn't have to disassemble the collet to get the bit out, but perhaps it was necessary in this case -- the bit looks quite rusty. I wouldn't try to use that bit again, and I'd inspect the collet carefully; if it's anywhere near as rusty as the bit, it needs to be replaced. And if you're correct that the collet size is 10mm, you may need to replace it with a more standard size (preferably 1/2&amp;quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, if you can't find a new collet that'll fit this router, you may need to replace the router. No matter how well the motor runs, you don't want razor sharp carbide spinning at 25,000 RPM without being held very securely in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these types of router bits still sold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt you'll find new cutters to fit that old shank, unless it's new old stock. There are some bit sets where the cutters are separate from the shaft, but in every case I've seen the idea is to change the configuration of the same cutters, not to completely replace the profile. For example, [this cope and stick bit] has two cutters whose positions can be swapped on the shank to cut mating parts of the same joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2021-01-05T17:01:25.683" LastActivityDate="2021-01-05T17:01:25.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11401" CreationDate="2021-01-05T11:07:32.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally the answer to this is a &amp;quot;we can't say&amp;quot; as already indicated in the Comments, however, with the intended use I think one &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; say yes in this case. Given that the manufacturers of treated exterior woods like this say that their product is OK for things like garden benches and tables where there is occasional bare-skin contact — bearing in mind the highly litigious age we live in — just incidental contact indoors must surely be safe. And after planing off the surface any risk goes down substantially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a but though. &lt;em&gt;The major risk here is to the user&lt;/em&gt;, i.e., &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt;, while you're working on the stuff. While I wouldn't lose any sleep over occasional handling of such material with bare hands and working with it in the shop a little bit without taking any special precautions&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, I'd be very hesitant to do much machine processing&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; without suitable PPE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your call&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;No matter whether you read up further on the subject of the safety of dealing with treated lumber, at the end of the day this is going to come down to an individual call. Just like many things in woodworking (use of crown guards on table saws, always wearing a mask when sanding or only sometimes, laying routers on their side while they spin down etc. etc.) right or wrong everyone makes their own call each time, based on essentially gut feeling. So what's your gut telling you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, can I somehow seal the wood? Preferably without loosing the natural color/grain or making the planks look very glossy (I really don't like the look of a poly-urethane coating).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Polyurethane isn't one thing. For starters we now have both oil-based and waterbased finishes that contain polyurethane and even with the same gloss level they typically give a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; different look to wood based only on their native colouring — oil-based being a classic yellowing/amber tone and waterbased usually being colourless (milky in the tin, but dries water-clear).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to this you can apply even a full-gloss poly in dilute form (&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5891/how-to-fix-very-light-scratches-in-polyurethane-finish/5893#5893&quot;&gt;wiping varnish&lt;/a&gt;) which if not built up in many layers gives a very different look to the classic varnished finish. Using just a couple/few light coats you get very much an in-the-wood look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But that aside, almost the standard recommendation these days to &amp;quot;What can I put on wood to provide protection while changing the look as little as possible?&amp;quot; is a matt waterbased poly. At best these literally make wood appear as if it has nothing whatever on the surface. So if you wanted to give the wood as much protection as possible without any/much alteration of the look this is the thing to go with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However bookshelves don't typically need much protection as they not handled much, they're not moved regularly and they usually aren't somewhere a sweating glass or hot mug of tea/coffee will be placed. So if you wanted to just wax them that would likely be fine; many people have light-use interior projects finished with only wax and are happy with how they hold up over time. &lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; prior to waxing it's quite common to use sanding sealer or a light coat of a dilute finish such as some diluted shellac, or wiping varnish. In addition to some added protection and maybe an improvement in looks this also makes it easier to build up a consistent finish compared to the wax going on to bare wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Many user-made indoor workbenches feature pressure-treated wood for the legs and possibly other components as well, and reports of e.g. skin irritation are rare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Chiefly planing/thicknessing, but also any sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-01-05T11:07:32.203" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9960" CreationDate="2021-01-05T18:41:03.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is clouding from from water vapors in the Lysol getting trapped in under the finish.  Sometimes you can take a very lightly alchohol dampened cloth and gently, very gently wipe over the area.  Don’t press into the wood and don’t stay in one spot too long. You can also try a heat source like a hair dryer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8908" LastActivityDate="2021-01-05T18:41:03.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10889" CreationDate="2021-01-05T19:25:45.510" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve had really good results with general finishes product&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yka9C.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yka9C.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil based gel stain.  Ash will also take an ebony stain well.  I’ve also had good luck with alder. Here is a photo of my  monitor stand done with ash.  This will give you an open grain texture and grain lines will show.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5hcwg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5hcwg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8908" LastActivityDate="2021-01-05T19:25:45.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11408" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-05T19:58:58.880" Score="0" ViewCount="230" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OHIHT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OHIHT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;I've been repairing the shellac finish on paneling in my home, and some spots are coming out way too flat when dried.  In this photo you can see how the glossiness isn't consistent, even though I applied fresh shellac over all spots within the border.  Luckily this spot is barely noticeable since it's near the floor, but I'm afraid to try anywhere else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Zinsser Amber Bulls-eye, thinning it down with an equal part of denatured alcohol.  Is the problem that I'm over-thinning it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or can moisture cause this?  The finish in this flat spot was turning milky as it dried, which I read can be caused by excess humidity or moisture.  I reapplied shellac several times until it dried without turning milky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original finish is around 30 years old and gets scratched very easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5427" LastActivityDate="2021-01-05T19:58:58.880" Title="How to get consistent glossiness in shellac finish repair" Tags="|finishing|shellac|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11409" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11415" CreationDate="2021-01-05T22:27:25.967" Score="1" ViewCount="5326" Body="&lt;p&gt;really sorry for a posting a noob question (I did try to specifically see if this was answered somewhere else and couldn't see it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I'm doing a simple home DIY project to build a squat rack in my garage gym.  It will be mostly made from 2x4 except the main uprights taking the weight will be 4x4.  I've seen a design that I like elsewhere (but they used ONLY 2x4).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is, I'm not sure how to join two specific pieces of the 2x4 to the 4x4.  I've included a really basic drawing (again sorry for how basic this is) which shows the set up as if you're looking from the side.  The Black lines are 4x4 timber posts and the red and blue are 2x4.  I'm trying to figure out how to join the top and bottom red 2x4 pieces to the 4x4 upright and the (blue) 2x4 that will be fixed to the wall.  I don't want to (more like can't) screw into the end grain of the 2x4 (to be honest don't have screws long enough to get through the 4x4 first!) and I don't own a pocket hole jig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI, there will also be two 2x4s placed side on (like the one in the middle) at the top and bottom of the frame for extra stability, but I need the inside bits to attach the angled braces to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?  One thought is to not do the inside pieces at top and bottom, do away with the top angled brace and screw the bottom angled brace directly into the concrete garage floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2LdZW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2LdZW.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9678" LastActivityDate="2021-01-08T02:50:15.023" Title="Joining 2x4 and 4x4" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11410" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11411" CreationDate="2021-01-06T15:05:24.207" Score="1" ViewCount="241" Body="&lt;p&gt;If every board is nailed down on one side of each board, then gaps would open between each board when they shrink. Dust and debris would fall into cracks and any liquid spills would get between the boards, dripping down into the &amp;quot;tongue and groove&amp;quot; seam, then down to the sub floor (or at least into the boards themselves). If every board is nailed on both sides, the boards would either crack or buckle when expanding or contracting, because they would not be allowed to move. The only way I can see to allow expansion and also have no gaps would be to glue every single board together into a massive room filling panel and then nail the panel only on one side of the room, allowing the entire panel to expand as a whole. But this is not how floors are done. I see many solid wood floors that are nailed everywhere, with no gaps, and seem to have no problems. How is this possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5365" LastActivityDate="2021-01-08T15:53:18.897" Title="How can you design a solid wood floor that allows for expansion without gaps between the boards?" Tags="|expansion|flooring|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11410" CreationDate="2021-01-06T16:45:03.590" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see many solid wood floors that are nailed everywhere, with no gaps, and seem to have no problems. How is this possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solid wood floors &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.impressionsflooring.com/2019/07/29/seasonal-expansion-and-shrinkage-in-hardwood-floors/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;do experience seasonal movement&lt;/a&gt;, but you may not notice it because many floors are made up of boards that are only 2 1/4&amp;quot; to 3&amp;quot; wide, so any shrinkage between summer and winter is distributed over many joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, a 2 1/2&amp;quot;-wide flat sawn oak board going from 12% to 7% moisture content &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodweb.com/cgi-bin/calculators/calc.pl&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;shrinks by around 0.04&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;, or just over 1/32&amp;quot;. The difference is half that for quarter sawn boards, and since floors tend to have some flat sawn and some quarter sawn planks, the average value is probably around 0.03&amp;quot;. Also, the one face of the board that's most exposed to the air is usually given a couple coats of polyurethane; that won't stop seasonal movement, but it may attenuate it somewhat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason that wood floors fastened with nails, cleats, or staples is that those fasteners allow for seasonal movement. In contrast, engineered flooring is so stable that it's often glued in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look closely at a solid wood floor in the winter, you'll see that there definitely are gaps there. You may not find them at every joint, but you'll probably see a gap every few boards. Look at the same section again in the summer and those gaps will have tightened up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; Please don't take the numbers in my example too literally. I chose the range 7-12% because that's about the range of seasonal moisture changes of the hardwood in my shop; the numbers may be different for you if you're in a different climate, and the particular facts of flooring (wood species, only one face exposed to the air, finish applied, etc.) would likely affect the numbers as well. The important point is that using narrow boards is one way to minimize the size of gaps by distributing the seasonal movement over many joints; many tiny gaps is often more desirable than a few larger ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So there is no way to avoid gaps in solid wood floor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seasonal movement is a fact of life. Relative humidity levels change with the seasons, solid wood expands and contracts with moisture content, and wood moisture content is affected by humidity. The main question is how to deal with that movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could glue the floorboards together and float the entire floor, meaning that you don't attach it to the subfloor. That might work for a while, especially while the moisture content is increasing and the floor is expanding. But when the moisture content starts dropping, all those edge joints will be in tension as the floor is contracting, and chances are some of them will fail. At that point you'll get several large gaps instead of many tiny ones. Also, this method means that you have to allow for &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; the movement at the perimeter of the floor, so you need baseboard molding that provides sufficient space for the floor's movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could put the floor together with tight joints and quickly seal the whole thing so thoroughly that no moisture gets in or out. But it's hard to prevent &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; change — even gymnasium floors, which typically have a lot more finish than residential floors, undergo seasonal movement. And most people who want a wood floor aren't thinking of something that looks like a basketball court.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could carefully control the temperature and humidity in the room so that they stay constant and avoid the factors that cause seasonal movement in the first place. This really isn't a way to design the floor specifically, but rather a separate mitigation strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2021-01-08T15:53:18.897" LastActivityDate="2021-01-08T15:53:18.897" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11412" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-06T20:21:52.773" Score="1" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is woodworking-related. Recently, I found in the attic (in France) the wood pieces shown on this photo. There are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 round, flat, 40-cm diameter disc, with a hand-carved, 5mm-deep grooove all around&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 identical long, twisted, holed pieces with a ring at one extremity.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the intuition that all those are part of a small table. However, I cannot find a way to put them together. I may be missing a piece of the puzzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QX2n1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QX2n1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;the puzzling wood pieces&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9686" LastActivityDate="2021-01-06T20:21:52.773" Title="I have separate, finished pieces. How to assemble them?" Tags="|furniture|assembly|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11414" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-07T20:49:08.343" Score="0" ViewCount="1282" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first post on WoodWorking Stack Exchange so please forgive me in advance if my question has been answered before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am new to woodworking and have read a lot of information regarding working with polyurethane to finish a project. I have recently built a table top, which I intend to finish with poly, but cannot find anything concrete around the number of poly coats required before I can safely polish my table top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have purchased a gloss polyurethane and my aim is to finish my table top to closely resemble a glass look finish. The manufacturers guidelines recommend applying 3 to 4 coats of poly, which appears to be the norm, but I am worried 4 coats of poly will not be enough for me to then begin buffing/polishing to get that glass look finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will 4 coats of ploy be enough or would I burn though these coats whilst polishing? Would anyone recommend applying more coats to be safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9691" LastEditorUserId="9691" LastEditDate="2021-01-07T21:03:32.680" LastActivityDate="2021-01-08T18:37:30.450" Title="Number of polyurethane coats before I can polish?" Tags="|finishing|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11409" CreationDate="2021-01-08T02:50:15.023" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;can I ask why the choice of wood? Is the reason for the 4x4's and the 2x4's because that is what you have on hand or you like the look of the 4x4's in the front, or is it something entirely different?  The reason I am asking is there are many ways you could do this.  First if you've never built a squat rack, then your ready to build one, don't let any one discourage you on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of what your trying to do only requires a hand saw and a combination or speed square tape measure and a pencil. You need good joint construction for this type of project, and one of the most effective and simple joint types in basic carpentry you can make is a full and half lap joint. There are many other stronger joints designed for load bearing but for what you are trying to do these should work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IwrsA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IwrsA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can use 2-2x4's in place of the 4x4 then you can nail them together one shorter in length gives you essentially a pre-made half lap joint. screw them, best would be to through bolt them with Carriage bolts nuts and washers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people have forgotten how easy and quick it can be to cut lumber with a hand saw you can almost find them for practically no cost at a local goodwill thrift store. Another great tool is a wood chisel.  You can make one cut and hit your end grain with the chisel and you have your half lap having a chisel cuts down on the amount of saw cuts required&#xA;. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BqyzT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BqyzT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Take a look at window construction in carpentry both the Header and the sill are reinforced with an additional 2x4 the result is a half lap!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yps6p.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yps6p.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you go through the process you'll be proud of your accomplishment. If you get stumped just reach out on this site,  I'm sure there is someone who will want to help. It sounds like a fun project, Have Fun and share a completed photo if you can!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8908" LastActivityDate="2021-01-08T02:50:15.023" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11417" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-08T05:55:42.700" Score="2" ViewCount="2948" Body="&lt;p&gt;what is the strongest joint between using such fasteners &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.core77.com/posts/27725/Death-to-Cam-Lock-Nuts-Flatpack-Hardware-That-Will-Hopefully-Become-Obsolete&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.core77.com/posts/27725/Death-to-Cam-Lock-Nuts-Flatpack-Hardware-That-Will-Hopefully-Become-Obsolete&lt;/a&gt; (ikea furniture ones), and the kreg screws for pocket holes ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a 90 angle joint between a vertical and horizontal panels, is there a winner resisting better to both: a pullout of the horizontal panel in the vertical direction, a push to the left/right of the vertical pannel (in a tangent/horizontal direction) ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9694" LastActivityDate="2021-02-08T15:04:15.383" Title="pocket hole joint Vs. cam lock joint - What's sturdier?" Tags="|wood|joinery|plywood|fasteners|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11414" CreationDate="2021-01-08T16:58:19.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The finer your abrasives are the less material you will be removing.  By the time you get to the &amp;quot;polishing&amp;quot; grits you should be removing very little material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your surfaces were sufficiently flat and smooth to begin with you should be able to safely polish it after 4 coats.  In fact, polishing should ideally not even cut through one coat, otherwise you risk creating &amp;quot;witness lines&amp;quot; at the border between where the top coat is present and where it is not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also will be effected by how thick your coats are.  If you're using thinned &amp;quot;wiping&amp;quot; poly you may want to do a few more coats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, ideally, if you know you're going to be doing heavy polishing you should use a finish that &amp;quot;burns in&amp;quot; to previous layers, like lacquer or shellac.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2021-01-08T18:37:30.450" LastActivityDate="2021-01-08T18:37:30.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10707" CreationDate="2021-01-09T13:19:18.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Specifically regarding the blowout of the wood fibers, regardless of the angle being cut you could apply some masking tape (&amp;quot;blue tape&amp;quot;) to that portion, rather tightly. This often will help support the fibers as the cut penetrates the last portion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="763" LastActivityDate="2021-01-09T13:19:18.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11420" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-09T13:30:16.370" Score="4" ViewCount="1487" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've generally mitered joints and very rarely coped them in trim or molding, and have been able to achieve an appearance I was satisfied with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But &amp;quot;traditionally,&amp;quot; coped joints seem to have been the norm. Even in my 1970's house there are plenty of examples of coped joints in baseboard (skirting board) and some were done in the 90s. So even in the era of power miter boxes the people who did that work felt coping was a better choice. But personally I'm not sure what the rationale for that actually is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Coping clearly could be useful in a retrofit situation, matching up a new piece against something existing without disturbing what is already there. But I'm thinking more of a situation where you are joining two new components.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, just for the sake of argument, assume that the skill of the woodworking / carpenter is good enough to create a good joint either way. I'm interested more in the inherent advantages of either approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just for clarity, its a joint of this general type I'm thinking of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/devxh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/devxh.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/how-to-cope-joints/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but it need not be a perfect 90.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="763" LastEditorUserId="763" LastEditDate="2021-12-17T17:37:44.420" LastActivityDate="2024-03-29T00:03:05.377" Title="What are the advantages of coping a joint vs. mitering?" Tags="|joinery|miter-joint|butt-joint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11417" CreationDate="2021-01-09T14:16:46.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the absence of clarification from the OP I'll Answer this with a given set of assumptions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic answer here is pocket-hole screws, and by a pretty large margin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not simply that the screws themselves are so much more secure than a steel rod of some kind intersecting with a cam&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, it's that &lt;strong&gt;pocket-hole screws tend not to be used in isolation&lt;/strong&gt;. The norm for screw installation in pocket holes (and actually much assembly of furniture using screws) is to both &lt;strong&gt;glue and screw&lt;/strong&gt;. And the glued joint does &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; of the heavy lifting when it comes to joint strength, particularly so in solid wood which edge-glues far more strongly than plywood does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to outright strength, there's the issue of flex and other movement in a joint. A joint that can shift even slightly is always at risk of becoming looser over time if it's stressed, but even from normal day-to-day loads being applied (minor stuff, like leaning forward into the surface of a desk as you work at it), as well as from seasonal wood movement&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this is precisely why screws are rarely used by themselves in quality furniture work; not necessarily high-end stuff, just anything intended to last. Because they allow for &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; movement they tend to wallow out their own holes and you enter into a cycle of damage — movement leads to wallowing which allows for even more movement, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; At least in a fresh installation, where everything is done well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; So just sitting there unused something can become a little less tight and solid than when it was last used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-01-09T14:16:46.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11423" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-10T18:59:48.767" Score="1" ViewCount="664" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you can see in the pic is the dry fit of this mahogany piece into my bathroom. It fits very snug into the wall pocket. In the pic is just bare wood, no finish applied yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've already treated it with &lt;strong&gt;3 coats of pure Tung Oil&lt;/strong&gt;, and now I was hesitating between letting it cure for a month and then giving it a wax coat, or just installing it as is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More info for context: We don't take baths very often (maybe once every 3 months), most of it is quick showers, so there is not a lot of long staying humidity build up in the room. We also have an extractor fan built in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would you guys recommend in the direction of long term resistance to water and vapor? Would you say the Tung Oil could be enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k2G7B.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k2G7B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5985" LastActivityDate="2021-01-12T13:15:58.130" Title="Will tung oil be enough waterproof / water resistant finish for this mahogany/sapele bathroom piece?" Tags="|finishing|water-protection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11424" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12978" CreationDate="2021-01-10T20:14:48.213" Score="1" ViewCount="349" Body="&lt;p&gt;We recently purchased a barn-style 8 x 24' pre-assembled shed. When it arrived, the plywood floor was not even. The edges weren't aligned, so the floor is 1/8 inch higher in some places. I'm wondering what the best practice for &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;evening the floor surface&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I researched different ideas, but none of what I saw seemed to apply perfectly to my situation. The floor is OSB I think (&lt;em&gt;Does it make a difference whether it is OSB vs plywood?&lt;/em&gt;). I'm looking for the most economical solution. Inside our house we have a &amp;quot;floating floor&amp;quot; with some foam sheets of something covered in shiny gold mylar-like material, with a laminate wood floor on top. I'm just trying to have a workshop in my shed, not a fancy floor, so I'm not sure if that gold foam layer would even be applicable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen blogs about using some kind of pourable concrete or mortar, but that solution seems to be about $100 for 4 square feet (perhaps I'm exaggerating there). For the time being I'm out of work and looking for the lowest cost longest-lasting solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm really looking for is a way to prevent the floor from sagging or getting holes in it over time. I live down in the humid deep south and that is a real issue here. It also needs to be durable to take things being dropped on it (hand tools, wood, bricks, etc.), and it has to be flexible enough that when it gets to around freezing (yes, it freezes in Alabama) that the temp change doesn't undo the &amp;quot;solution&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;MY PROPOSED SOLUTION&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on everything I've read and experienced, here is a multi-faceted solution strategy I'd love for you to weigh in on, or offer a better solution without addressing mine at all is fine too:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paint the floor with Killz 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Caulk the edges where the wall meets the floor (should I use clear silicone? Will this cause problems down the road?). This should help with temperature maintenance and reducing critter/bug access.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nail (or should I use construction glue??) 1/8&amp;quot; plywood sheets on top of the OSB. This will give a smooth surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what kind of putty, paste, cream, or other material I should use under the thin plywood to make the floor level. &lt;em&gt;Is this solution even practical?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9703" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2021-07-06T18:44:07.803" LastActivityDate="2021-07-26T13:46:47.367" Title="How to level plywood/OSB shed floor" Tags="|glue|plywood|flooring|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11426" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-11T23:59:00.073" Score="2" ViewCount="176" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem with the gel topcoat that I applied on my kitchen table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided to restore our old kitchen table so I sanded it down, used General Finishes gel stain and applied General Finishes satin gel topcoat. Everything looked perfect until the application of the 3rd coat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have to mention that it was my first project ever.  I am not a woodworker.  I was very happy with the end result, that is before I applied the third coat. I applied the topcoat with a rag and then wiped off the excess of the gel. I did not sand between the coats (I tried light sanding with 320 grit after the first coat and it started to take the stain off so I stopped immediately).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my problem is that after the third coat there are visible streaks that you can see if you look at it from a certain angle. I honestly think that I might have done too much wiping and maybe the coat was applied unevenly?  My question is - how can I fix it? Should I gently sand it (if yes what grit) and then apply another coat or more? Should I use a sponge brush or a special pad instead of the rag? Please see the attached pictures. I am at loss because I spent so much time on this project and putting on the 3rd coat of finish ruined the appearance of the table. Please help. Any advice is greatly appreciated.&#xA;Joanna &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AXafC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AXafC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9709" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2021-01-12T00:49:00.450" LastActivityDate="2021-01-13T10:48:37.240" Title="How can I fix smears after wipe on gel finish?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11427" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-12T08:41:10.610" Score="0" ViewCount="266" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm doing a one-off project for a much-needed small dining space in the holiday home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a set of 4 hairpin legs at 106cm each that I want to use for a bar table. I want a nice table top but want to keep it under AUS$100 if possible, whilst ensuring stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have seen finished/stained acacia panels at Bunnings that are the perfect length/depth (1800 x 600) for what we need, but are only 18mm thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any recommendations on how I can combine the 2 for a sturdy bar/dining table/kitchen island?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was going to buy 2 panels, sand one side of each down, wood glue and nail together. Then attach the legs and add a centre leg for a support piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes? No? Rookie-error alert?  Lol&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Open to suggestions as I am NOT a woodworker by any stretch - just a pregnant woman wanting to get it done, give it a crack and take one thing off hubby's to-do list (I have teenage hands to help with lifting).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9712" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-01-12T09:35:21.373" LastActivityDate="2021-01-13T20:26:40.140" Title="How to stabilize a bar table with hairpin legs" Tags="|wood|technique|furniture|design|glue|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11426" CreationDate="2021-01-12T09:28:47.213" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sticking with the supplies you have you should be able to rectify this without too much difficulty. One final coat of varnish should do it, with or without a &lt;em&gt;light&lt;/em&gt; overall sanding using your 320.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do sand don't just target the trouble spots, as tempting as that is. And do sand very lightly, using basically no pressure — &amp;quot;just the weight of your arm&amp;quot; is a common guideline given. You're not aiming to make the surface uniformly dull, just flatten it a little IF there's more texture there than this one photograph shows. On the other hand, if the surface texture is actually very fine you can probably safely skip the sanding and proceed directly to varnishing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously you have to apply this last coat carefully to ensure the surface quality you want, and this &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; certainly possible using the gel topcoat straight from the tin. But if the goal is to use the final surface pretty much as-is&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; my experience has been that the most forgiving product for this, by quite a margin, is wiping varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Make wiping varnish&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now a gel varnish is not the ideal candidate for conversion to wiping varnish (normally it's done starting from regular fluid varnishes) but the product will still dilute and thin in consistency when mixed with mineral spirits and therefore can be applied this way, despite it being outside of its normal parameters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I can't give you a formula for how much to thin since I don't know the exact consistency of the GF product, but you merely need to aim for a given viscosity. Think more skimmed milk than heavy cream. But this is approximate so don't sweat hitting some target accurately, just dilute a little at a time until you get to around this mark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the gel topcoat is &lt;em&gt;thoroughly&lt;/em&gt; mixed before you start. I can't stress this enough, as you're using a satin it contains some matting agent which has to be uniformly distributed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't thin in the original container. Dilute in any clean glass jar with a tight-fitting lid you have that's not too small, transferring some gel topcoat to it and then adding mineral spirits and stirring thoroughly, or, better, shaking the jar once tightly capped&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. A spoon is great for transferring varnish BTW, but make sure you clean it thoroughly afterwards if you want to use it again for its original purpose LOL&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make more than you think you need, to ensure you don't run out as you spread it over the surface. I'm thinking maybe 1/3 to 1/2 a cup (80-120ml) depending on the size of the table. But if you did run out it's hardly a disaster, you could make another batch in under a minute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get it on, wipe it (mostly) off. Wipe or brush or roller it on to the surface; it doesn't really matter how you apply it, just get it on there. Then carefully wipe most of it off — it's this last step that makes wiping varnish so nearly foolproof, since a very thin wiped-off layer usually dries uniformly and with minimal risk of dust nibs because it also dries so quickly&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With luck this single application of wiping varnish will do what you're looking for here. If not, a second layer will do the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Minus some very minor de-nibbing, which may or may not be needed. If you do need to de-nib, as odd as it might sound the rough side of brown paper is perfect for this. And yes, you can use a grocery bag if that's the only brown paper you have :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; You don't need to worry about the bubbles created if you shake the jar, because the wiping process and the thin consistency ensures that no bubbles will survive in the applied varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; No longer wet in well under an hour, much reduced tackiness within about three hours and tack-free within 6-9 hours, depending on a few variables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-01-13T10:48:37.240" LastActivityDate="2021-01-13T10:48:37.240" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11423" CreationDate="2021-01-12T13:15:58.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Twenty five years ago, I installed something quite similar (not nearly as nice as your piece) and it has lasted just fine until now. This was installed in our larger bathroom which contains both a separate bathtub and shower. Before installation, I applied approx. three coats of clear Watco danish oil. I allowed the finish to dry about 3-4 weeks then applied 3 to 4 heavily-cut, thin coats of orange shellac. This was partially due to the effect I wished to achieve from orange shellac. I know all will not agree that shellac is suitable for a bathroom cabinet but we never had much in the way of wet and foggy conditions (usually) and the finish has held up quite well. I found the combo of Watco Danish (&amp;quot;Tung&amp;quot;) oil and shellac to work quite well overall. It was also dead simple to do prior to installation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best I can advise is let it dry a few weeks and then try a top coat such as shellac or some type of varnish (diluted) or perhaps a lacquer. I just found shellac to be the simplest while still giving a nice result for a lot less work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also just apply another 3 to 4 coats of Tung oil. This will take a while to dry but it has to be the simplest way to seal the piece. The more coats of oil, the heavier top coat (and protection) it builds on its own. It takes quite a bit of &amp;quot;Tung&amp;quot; oil to finally create a decent top coat that will handle moisture. Whether you use multi coats of &amp;quot;Tung Oil&amp;quot; or an oil and top coat finish, you can always add a couple coats of Howard's Feed'n wax as a top coat to add extra protection and just plain add a bit of depth to the finish&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps in some way. You have a beautiful cabinet there, it looks very, very nice in the place you are installing it. Experiment with your finishes. Try mine or try one of the above suggestions. You'll find what works best for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jim&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9035" LastActivityDate="2021-01-12T13:15:58.130" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11433" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-13T22:39:13.620" Score="0" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering what the optimal size is for a router table for making an acoustic guitar? Initially I would use it to help me make some jigs to bend guitar sides and hold the parts together as I shape the body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking 800mm x 600mm, but now I think this might be oversized for this purpose. I plan to make the table top from MDF and laminate with Formica offcuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9724" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-06-13T19:19:12.917" LastActivityDate="2021-06-13T19:19:12.917" Title="What are suitable dimensions for a router table that specifically would be used to make an acoustic guitar?" Tags="|mdf|router-table|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11433" CreationDate="2021-01-14T15:17:12.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want it to be big enough to support the pieces you'll be working with, but not so big that it's hard to reach where the bit sticks through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have to stretch to reach the bit, you'll be off balance and could hurt yourself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have to juggle the piece you're routing, it'll likely slip, possibly damaging the work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest taking a look at some commercially available tables to see what sizes they come in - something in that range would most likely work for you unless there's something &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; special about guitar making. If there is, it would help if you would edit that into your original question so we may be able to help address that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2021-01-14T15:17:12.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11435" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-14T19:12:56.163" Score="-1" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to build a small wooden table to rest my guitar amplifier ontop of and hide my pedal board underneath. I need the table top to be around 30'' x 10'' and about 12'' high. What type of wood should I buy for this project? My amp weighs around 50lbs and will be the only substantial item ontop of it. Also, what is the best way for securing the legs onto the table? I have very basic tools (mostly a power drill) but have a friend who has a table saw that I might be able to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also like to paint the table later on, so something that takes paint well would be appreciated. I don't need anything particularly fancy, just whatever is cheapest and gets the job done, but I haven't tried a project like this before and am mostly clueless on where to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9731" LastActivityDate="2021-01-14T21:31:22.270" Title="Best type of wood for making a small table" Tags="|table-making|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11435" CreationDate="2021-01-14T21:31:22.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;(This question isn't really an ideal fit for this site, as you're basically asking &amp;quot;how do I do this project&amp;quot;.  The question of species is really opinion-based because almost anything would work.  Since you're new here, though, I'll give you an answer anyways.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're painting it then poplar is a good choice. It's easy to work with and strong enough. It takes paint well and it's fairly cheap. The biggest downside is that if you don't paint it it's not very pretty, as it can have greenish coloration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'd do is get a poplar 1x10 board from a big box store.  Try to find one that is as straight and flat as possible.  Start by crosscutting off a 30&amp;quot; long piece for the top.  (The table saw is NOT a good way to do this, so you'll also need a circular saw, miter saw, hand saw, or possibly a jig saw.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then rip 8 pieces 1 1/2&amp;quot; wide and a foot long and laminate them together for the legs.  You'll need some clamps for this, but it's small enough that you could just use cheap C-clamps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cut some aprons a few inches wide.  To join them to the legs I'd use dowel joints.  You can get a kit that includes the dowels, centering pins, a drill bit and stop collar for a few bucks at the home center when you're picking up your lumber.  Basically you drill holes in the aprons, put the pins in those holes, line them up with the legs and press the pins into the legs to mark where to drill into them.  Use wood glue, like titebond 3, on the dowels and holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally tabletops need to be attached in a way that will allow for wood movement.  For something this small that can be as simple as only attaching the top by screwing through the centers of the short aprons.  (Attaching it the top to the long aprons would prevent the top from moving and lead to some kind of failure in the long run.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2021-01-14T21:31:22.270" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3936" CreationDate="2021-01-15T18:01:35.830" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As with all tools, it depends. The cheaper ones or ones used by construction workers for timber framing are not suitable for woodworking. Surface quality left by electric planers varies. They are not all equal. Some even have spiral blades that leave a very smooth finish that requires little to no sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for uses, a high-end electric planer, such as Festool or Mafell will leave a better quality edge than most trim routers with a bevelling router bit. They can also cut rabbets easily and quickly for inset panels or cabinet backs. For sneaking up on a final dimension I would still use a good handplane, but an electric planer is actually safer for getting a straight edge on longer pieces than a medium sized jointer which is limited by infeed and outfeed table lengths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, yes, a good quality electric planer has uses in a woodworking shop. The better ones have good dust collection, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9734" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-01-16T07:15:33.027" LastActivityDate="2021-01-16T07:15:33.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11440" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11441" CreationDate="2021-01-16T17:19:13.463" Score="2" ViewCount="653" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to make this desk for a person who has asked to leave off the front of the apron. She's very short and has difficulty with most desks being too high, and the ones that aren't too high don't have enough clearance underneath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will a 3/4&amp;quot; piece of plywood hold across a span of slightly under 3 feet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And would the answer to this be different if I edged the plywood with 1 inch of hardwood (walnut)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mb5G5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Desk&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9737" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-01-17T15:22:35.777" LastActivityDate="2021-01-24T01:58:29.707" Title="Do I need the front apron piece in a desk with a 3/4&quot; plywood top?" Tags="|design|plywood|strength|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11440" CreationDate="2021-01-16T19:19:37.543" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;3/4 plywood over a 3' span is likely to be fine as long as she does not  sit or climb up on it, or leave heavy objects near the edge for long periods of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am sitting at a desk, as i right this that is 3/4 plywood spanning 6' and it is fine. If i put a straight edge on it i think i may see a sag of about an 1/8&amp;quot;, with out my heavy arms resting on it to use the keyboard, but it will flex significantly if press down on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it will be fine but since you have not built it yet you may want to   go with either a thicker ply, thicker solid wood or butcher block.   A&#xA;Aesthetically i think it will look better on the thick base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And would the answer to this be different if I edge-banded the plywood&#xA;with 1 inch of hardwood (walnut)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thicker walnut hardwood would add stiffness but not take all of the flex out of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2917" LastEditorUserId="2917" LastEditDate="2021-01-16T19:25:22.143" LastActivityDate="2021-01-16T19:25:22.143" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11442" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11443" CreationDate="2021-01-16T21:36:10.863" Score="1" ViewCount="802" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just cut a log that I want to mill into boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(In case the best technique depends on the size, the log is only about 4 inches in diameter, and I want to mill one or two small boards from it, just thick and wide enough to make a picture frame or something like that.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I paint the ends of the log and let it dry like that or should I mill roughly the board that I want and then let it dry to final moisture levels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4640" LastActivityDate="2021-01-17T02:59:31.490" Title="Is it better to mill boards before or after drying? (And does it depend on diameter?)" Tags="|wood-drying|milling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11442" CreationDate="2021-01-17T02:59:31.490" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, it's far, far better to rough-mill while green, dry in a stack with stickers to allow airflow and if necessary considerable weight to put on the stack, then do final shaping with the moisture content near the desired environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, it's much faster to dry the relatively thin rough boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, drying induces strains in the wood. By rough-milling and stacking the boards during drying, these strains will be (largely, most of the time) relieved. Milling a dry tree trunk is an invitation to wild distortions of the wood once it is free to move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frankly, I don't know if 4-inch diameter trunks would be all that badly affected. What I think is clear, though is that the wood won't look all that great. Early growth generally produces wide rings, and the very core (called the pith) is not normally used, and curvature of the rings is likely to cause ...unfortunate... wood movement in response to seasonal changes in relative humidity. Unless you quarter-saw each trunk to get two boards, one on each side of the pith (and so about 2 inches wide or less) you're going to get a lot of seasonal warping and cupping. This may not be an issue for things like picture frames, but you need to be aware of the possiblity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="463" LastActivityDate="2021-01-17T02:59:31.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11268" CreationDate="2021-01-17T04:31:59.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should go without saying that that's not the greatest drawing, but let me go out on a limb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at the cleat at the end of the side rail. There appear to be 3 holes which would allow the cleat to be screwed (and glued) into the side rail. There appears to be a hole at the top of the cleat, which to my eye lines up with the upper of 4 holes in the short bed rail. I suggest that perhaps the cleat actually has 4 holes which match holes in the rail. This would be a wooden equivalent to your angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your angle is a decent idea, but I'd be worried about only having two screws per side. That joint is going to be under enormous stress, and any loosening of the joint due to wood movement (both the seasonal and activity kind) is going to cause problems. Frankly I'd be a little more confident with bed bolts. And keep in mind that bed bolts normally operate almost entirely in shear, but these will have a significant load in tension as the angled legs try to lever the short bed rail away from the side rail. The smaller the angle you give the headboard and legs the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting the angles right for drilling holes isn't actually all that big a deal. When you cut the side rails, start with over-length pieces with good square ends. Then, when you cut the angled ends for the rails, keep the offcuts. They have exactly the right angle to make drilling jigs for whatever hardware you decide upon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, be very careful with joining the rear (head end) legs to the angled headboard. Again, keeping your offcuts can be very useful, but the point is that people will naturally sit and recline against that convienient angled surface, and the end of the legs is going to have to take the strain. Don't go overboard making the legs elegantly slim - they'll need to take considerable bending force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I may be overly cautious/alarmist, but I'm a big believer in Murphy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="463" LastActivityDate="2021-01-17T04:31:59.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11445" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-17T17:29:15.827" Score="2" ViewCount="203" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of a good repository for woodworking plans in Sketchup format? I'm looking for something like Github, but for woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently I just do searches for a specific plans in Google, but it seems logical that someone has created an &amp;quot;Open Source&amp;quot; type community for plans where one could find plans and contribute their own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2021-08-10T15:45:25.410" LastActivityDate="2021-08-10T15:45:25.410" Title="Is there an &quot;Open Source&quot; repository for Sketchup woodworking plans?" Tags="|planning|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11440" CreationDate="2021-01-17T21:43:16.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sagulator&lt;/a&gt; to find out. I entered your dimensions, assumed a load of 30 lbs distributed over the top, and said you're using 3/4&amp;quot; fir plywood. The total calculated sag was 0.01&amp;quot;, which seems quite acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2021-01-17T21:43:16.670" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11447" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-17T21:58:02.110" Score="3" ViewCount="1810" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a table leg that was connected to the table top with mortise and tenon and tenon broke off. As part of the repair I'd like to put in a dowel through leg and table top and wood glue the whole thing. Leg is maybe 2 inch in diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is how can I make I make my dowel hole centered and perfectly straight. I don't have a drill press tall enough to accommodate a leg this long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another idea is to use Drillmate like this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/jigs-guides-and-fixtures/73237-drill-guide?item=46J8370&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/jigs-guides-and-fixtures/73237-drill-guide?item=46J8370&lt;/a&gt; but I am unsure on how to secure the table leg to a vice that would house the drillmate on top of the vice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I overthinking this and should drill it by hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9309" LastActivityDate="2021-01-20T14:16:30.467" Title="How to accurately drill into end grain of a 20 inch table leg" Tags="|furniture|drilling|leg-vise|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11447" CreationDate="2021-01-17T22:40:17.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd find the center and make a good accurate divot (~1/2&amp;quot; deep or so). Then find a long drill bit -- at least 12&amp;quot;. Clamp 3 or 4 narrow strips of wood to the leg so they come up 6-9&amp;quot; above the top of the leg where you want to drill. You'll be able to hit the divot and visually keep yourself in the middle of the sticks. If this isn't clear, respond and I'll either sketch or snap a pic of what I mean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2021-01-17T22:40:17.543" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6948" CreationDate="2021-01-18T17:03:16.637" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also, the use of PVC pipe for dust collection is specifically prohibited by NFPA 664 Standard for the Prevention of Fires and Explosions in Wood Processing and Woodworking Facilities due to the build up of static electricity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9746" LastActivityDate="2021-01-18T17:03:16.637" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11450" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-18T23:32:52.403" Score="1" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, for lack of a proper shop, I was applying a first coat of undiluted Varathane Ultimate Polyurethane (oil based) to a plywood box using my dining room table under a plastic drop cloth as a work bench.  The room was about 75F.  The family came home and complained about the smell, so the drop cloth and project got moved to the garage where the temperature was 60F.  The next day, I snuck the project back inside and hid it in a closet, once again at 75F.   Six days later, the finish is still tacky to the touch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to wait until it gets warmer in the garage (several months from now) before attempting any more coats of polyurethane, but I am curious whether I have damaged the current coat such that it will never cure.  ...and if this is the case, that the existing coat will never cure, how do I remove it before starting over?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="147" LastActivityDate="2021-01-18T23:32:52.403" Title="Will my tacky polyurethane eventually cure when average air temperature rises?" Tags="|finishing|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11447" CreationDate="2021-01-20T03:12:20.500" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;See if you can unbolt the drill press body from the base and turn it so that the drill faces over your workbench unimpeded by its base. Then measure the accurate center, make a small hole with a thin nail, and use a brad point bit (so it doesn't skip around on the end grain surface) to drive into the nail hole. Make sure to secure your drill press carefully so it doesn't tip over. See if you can have a friend help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9755" LastActivityDate="2021-01-20T03:12:20.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11447" CreationDate="2021-01-20T14:16:30.467" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to suggest two very different methodologies, both of which won't require the purchase of any new bits or any awkward changes to the setup of your drill press (although the first suggestion does make use of the press).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Make a drill guide, use that&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Essentially follow the technique from &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2837/how-do-i-drill-a-hole-exactly-in-the-center-of-a-circle/2838?r=SearchResults&amp;amp;s=1%7C26.0820#2838&quot;&gt;this Answer&lt;/a&gt; to an old Question here, &lt;em&gt;How do I drill a hole exactly in the center of a circle?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cxk7W.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cxk7W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0ksV1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0ksV1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note you &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; need a 2&amp;quot; Forstner/other bit to use this method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it would be great if you had a suitable 2&amp;quot; bit of some kind you can instead drill the bottom of the block for a few guide rods that will slip over the outside of the leg, or, chisel a shallow &lt;em&gt;square&lt;/em&gt; mortise that the leg is a reasonably tight fit into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going with either of these if you happen to end up with a sloppy fit to the end of the leg don't worry, there's no need to scrap it and make a new one. As surprising as it sounds simply packing out the end of the leg with paper towels and then forcing it into the jig will still result in good alignment..... and the hold is much firmer than you might guess&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Drill by hand, with the aid of a helper&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;As you probably know it's quite easy to gauge tilt to left/right when drilling, especially with a long straight piece of wood to guide your eye, but much less easy to know if you're leaning a little forward or backward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So have your Temporary Workshop Assistant™ stand 90° to you and tell you when your drill is aligned left/right to them (your forward/backward). This can be more accurate than it sounds&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; and presumably you only need to drill a fairly shallow hole here (I'm visualising a 3/4&amp;quot;-1&amp;quot; hole ~1&amp;quot; deep).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note on the other stage of the operation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;As I mention in a Comment above, if this leg is not mounted vertically the drilling of the corresponding hole in the tabletop might actually turn out to be the more challenging part of this!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; I regularly use this method during restorations of swing braces to hold the heads on an undersized dowel/round piece of wood (in my case an old chair stringer or a small branch) for much of the sanding and all of the refinishing work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; This was actually a standard workshop technique back in the day so was widely used in production workshops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-01-20T14:16:30.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11454" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-20T21:17:05.427" Score="0" ViewCount="61" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a new pine floor with 2 coats oil based poly (no stain).  I want to fill in numerous countersunk nail holes that were left unfilled.  I will be putting down a 3rd coat of poly after that.  Would Elmers Wood Filler work, or is there a better solution? I want to make sure whatever I use will stay put.  Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9757" LastEditorUserId="2931" LastEditDate="2021-01-21T16:58:45.077" LastActivityDate="2021-01-21T16:58:45.077" Title="I have a new pine floor finished with 2 coats poly. What should I use to fill in some countersunk nail holes before 3rd coat of poly?" Tags="|filler|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11456" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-23T01:24:04.227" Score="2" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kitchen table and benches:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used all solid Birch from the same lumber yard picked up at one time. Everything was sent through the same planer. Used an orbital sander up to 220 grit + sanded everything with the grain. Applied minwax pre-stain and and minwax dark walnut all the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to fix it? Or should I think about using a gel stain to try to knock down the contrast? Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wsasj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wsasj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;]&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PUsHf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9768" LastActivityDate="2021-01-28T16:12:56.317" Title="Help with understanding what went wrong" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11457" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11464" CreationDate="2021-01-22T02:07:06.647" Score="2" ViewCount="337" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a table (first time with hardwood!) and was wondering if there's anything 'wrong' with using the following combo:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Danish oil (or similar), then de-waxed shellac, and then General Finishes' Arm-R-Seal or High Performance satin on top (both are poly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to try this out on some sample boards, of course, but was reading up and trying to see what would give the best durability with the Danish oil first coat. I've read a dewaxed shellac will help the topcoat dry quick and is a good sealer, but wasn't sure beyond that what the benefits were. Thank you! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9772" OwnerDisplayName="markthethomas" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-01-24T10:28:33.263" LastActivityDate="2021-01-24T11:17:04.193" Title="Dewaxed shellac under polyurethane" Tags="|hardwood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11457" CreationDate="2021-01-22T19:23:37.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to show off the details of the wood, i would suggest skipping the shellac and putting poly right over the danish oil. Shellac is a sealer in the sense that it is very good as a base coat when there is risk that the underlying surface will bleed through the top coat (like knots in a pine board). That is why it gets used as a primer under interior paint when the surface needs to be sealed, like when cleaning up a house that was lived in by a heavy smoker (it's a good odor blocker, too).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your purposes, poly over the danish oil will be just as durable without the extra shellac, and will look better too. Just give the oil plenty of time to dry, and remember to scuff the poly between coats. I have had really good luck with the wipe-on poly, and it's very easy to apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2967" OwnerDisplayName="Z4-tier" LastActivityDate="2021-01-22T19:23:37.403" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11459" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-23T14:19:58.993" Score="0" ViewCount="228" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sometimes need to make a mid-surface bevel in wood from 2' to 8' long as shown below and am wondering what recommendations there might be for good ways of doing it (without using a custom blade).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UFxgj.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UFxgj.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the example there 3&amp;quot; flats on both sides of the bevel, but the distance could be longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way I have done these if the flats are 3&amp;quot; or less is with the table saw. The challenge is always the crease. Because the two cuts end in corner, getting that corner clean and consistent is the tricky part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please give a specific setup, not just vague description. Don't just write &amp;quot;use a router&amp;quot;. How? Show the exact setup. Note that that the router bits that I have seen for a 45-degree bevel all have a bearing on the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2021-02-19T05:28:46.500" Title="How to cut a mid-surface bevel?" Tags="|joinery|bevels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11392" CreationDate="2021-01-23T15:59:09.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a bit of research, I found that many impact drills also use a 1/2-20 thread to attach the chuck.  I guess that due to the nature of what you're doing with an impact drill the chuck has a limited lifetime, so they're made to be easily replaced.  Once I had that figured out, it was a simple matter to find one.  (I happened to find mine on ebay).&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DWReB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DWReB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;threaded back of an impact drill chuck&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Here it is installed on my vintage lathe:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZnqqC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZnqqC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8547" LastActivityDate="2021-01-23T15:59:09.880" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11461" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-23T19:12:48.277" Score="0" ViewCount="188" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m a complete novice with no woodworking experience so apologies if this is a dumb question. Would it be possible to use uncut wood to build a pergola like the one in the picture and still treat it for weathering? We live in Tennessee so unlike the eucalyptus pictured it would likely be pine, poplar, or oak from our property. Any and all advice is appreciated. Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d9Eqb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d9Eqb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re: Sorry but I can't comment on your posts individually since I'm a new contributor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Graphus, ideally I would like it to last at least 10 years. Anything less than that doesn't seem worth cutting so many trees for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gianluca, we get 50+ inches of rain per year and since this would be outdoors maybe the poly coating is my best option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Caleb, I'm okay with bark being removed so long as they still keep their natural contour. With thin pieces I'm not sure how feasible this is. But I'm guessing if I can achieve that then I could get them pressure treated and maybe even double down with a poly coating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for all the responses!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2nd Re: Graphus, thank you for taking the time to provide so much info. I absolutely do not want to resand and varnish this every few years, nor do I want a to add a yellow tinge to the wood if it can be avoided. For the oak, do you mean I could leave it completely untreated with bark still on and it would last (i.e. simply cut it down and use as is)? If we go with pine (it's harder to part with our hardwoods and we have plenty of pine we'd like to clear anyway), you mean we should simply remove the bark and then treat it as normal (sans poly)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the link to the photo source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.elledecor.com/design-decorate/house-interiors/a34850863/mario-connio-uruguay-house/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.elledecor.com/design-decorate/house-interiors/a34850863/mario-connio-uruguay-house/&lt;/a&gt; Please let me know if I need to provide any more information for the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9769" LastEditorUserId="9770" LastEditDate="2021-01-30T16:34:38.550" LastActivityDate="2021-01-30T16:34:38.550" Title="Can uncut wood be treated for a pergola?" Tags="|pressure-treated|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11461" CreationDate="2021-01-23T21:52:05.323" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously yes. The only thing you must do before treating it is to clear it from eventual dirt, detach the parts that are already almost detached and stabilize breaks, if present, filling them with some UV resistant epoxy eventually mixed with sawdust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you can treat it with whatever finish you like, but you must consider the climate when choosing what to use.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;For this I cannot suggest anything, don't know how the climate is in Tennessee, but a local dealer probably can offer some good suggestions about products to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I had to do it, I would use a good quality UV resistant epoxy and then some good transparent polyurethane paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want, you can also research some more traditional ways of protecting wood using natural product and method, but some of these are much more laborious than using epoxy and paint. But at the same time, they teach a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3386" LastActivityDate="2021-01-23T21:52:05.323" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11440" CreationDate="2021-01-24T01:58:29.707" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;John, I designed a desk using 3/4 birch plywood for the top and put a piece of poplar shelf edging on the horizontal edge and this helps a lot to prevent sagging.&#xA;Also, I made a farmhouse TV stand which is very similar to the style of your desk. I used 2x2 inch poplar for the legs and 1x1 inch poplar for the diagonal braces.&#xA;I also agree with the others who said that a thicker top would look much better for this type of desk and also eliminate any sagging issues.&#xA;2 options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I used a biscuit joiner and then glued and clamped 2x8s together.&#xA;It turned out fantastic and a 300lb man could stand on it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For another piece, I used plywood top but wanted a beefier look so I glued 1x2 poplar laid flat all around the perimeter. When the top was sanded and stained with a dark stain it looks like solid stock.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9771" LastActivityDate="2021-01-24T01:58:29.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11457" CreationDate="2021-01-24T11:17:04.193" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;was wondering if there's anything 'wrong' with using the following combo&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's nothing wrong with it per se, but there's no reason to use all three finishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Danish oil&amp;quot; type products&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; can be used as finishes in their own right, as of course can Arm-R-Seal or High Performance. So the only reason to use a straight oil or blended oil finish first would be if it gives you some benefit. On many woods there's so little visual difference that it's just not worth the extra step and the added wait time; and frequently there's no improvement in appearance at all. As for the shellac, it's simply not needed here since oil-based polyurethanes are fully compatible with &amp;quot;Danish oil&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in short, you can apply oil-based varnish over &amp;quot;Danish oil&amp;quot; if you want but just applying the varnish straight onto the wood may yield almost the same, or even identical, results with one fewer step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally for ease of application and greater assurance of a good result (virtually foolproof in fact) I would suggest converting the varnish to wiping varnish and applying it that way. Read more about that in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5891/how-to-fix-very-light-scratches-in-polyurethane-finish/5893#5893&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to try this out on some sample boards, of course, but was reading up and trying to see what would give the best durability with the Danish oil first coat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good to hear, it's &lt;strong&gt;always&lt;/strong&gt; a good idea to do samples first. Not testing finish before committing to your project pieces can lead to poor, occasionally disastrous, results &lt;em&gt;even when using finishes you have used before&lt;/em&gt; so it's absolutely vital when using a new finish or finishing procedure, or you're working with a wood you're not familiar with&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So IF you can see an improvement in appearance using the &amp;quot;Danish oil&amp;quot; first it's worth noting that straight linseed oil&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; will in general give an even more noticeable change. It's for this reason that I occasionally oil first, and then apply shellac or varnish on top for gloss and durability. If I use a finish similar to commercial &amp;quot;Danish oil&amp;quot; it would typically be the entire finish.... to my mind there's no reason to use an oil/varnish blend otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; These are typically a blend of oil, varnish and lots of solvent. Incidentally I always put this in quotes because it's not from Denmark and actually has no real link to the country.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; A great example here would be if you're used to staining and finishing oak and like the results, then use the same process on birch without a test first. To say the difference in result would come as a surprise is a huuuge understatement!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; I mean boiled linseed oil (BLO) here, not raw linseed oil. Raw oil &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; usable here but takes too long to 'dry' to be practical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-01-24T11:17:04.193" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11465" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-24T15:17:36.933" Score="0" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2 old (?100 years) marquetry pictures where the wood is drying out. Many years ago I applied linseed oil but this darkened the pictures.  Is there something I can use to prevent this drying out and improve the surface?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9777" LastActivityDate="2021-01-25T11:03:29.253" Title="Marquetry pictures" Tags="|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11468" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-25T07:08:42.147" Score="5" ViewCount="356" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m trying to build a fairly simple-looking wooden table with four 3&amp;quot; dowel legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don’t plan on using any screws, what I want to do is about 1&amp;quot; down from the top of the dowel I want to create a 1/2&amp;quot; cutout that takes away a quarter piece of the rod (1/4 of the circle, like 1 slice of pizza if the pizza is cut into quarters) so that the corners of the wooden slab will fit right into the notches and hold up the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does that make any sense?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just don’t know how to go about cutting a square corner into the rod....I was thinking about sawing down until I get to the widest part of the opening and then chiselling the corner, but wondering if anyone has suggestions for a better way....&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AEINj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9784" LastEditorUserId="9784" LastEditDate="2021-01-25T17:59:16.703" LastActivityDate="2021-01-26T15:06:28.310" Title="90° notches into side of thick dowel legs" Tags="|furniture|dowel|square|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11465" CreationDate="2021-01-25T11:03:29.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If these have sentimental or monetary value they could probably do with professional attention as they're likely to need a multi-level intervention, including but not limited to removing the linseed oil, re-gluing certain pieces and some level of refinishing, possibly a complete refinish. While we could actually help with all of the above steps I think it would be better to have a single person with knowledge and experience tackle this in an integrated way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously this won't be cheap (and be suspicious of a cheap quote!) so it's only really viable if the pieces have enough real or perceived value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you did want to try to tackle these yourself be aware of some things in advance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;removal of the linseed oil will require stripping, and many consumer-level strippers are no longer suitable for pieces of this kind*;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the re-glueing work will be best accomplished using hide glue;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;if you want to refinish it as it may originally have been finished it'll involve using shellac, and applying this to a high standard is not easy for the first-timer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as I mention above in my Comment, the main issue facing old marquetry and veneered items is their environment — homes typically being much drier than they once were, something that is difficult or impossible for the homeowner to do anything about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Because they contain water, rather than being exclusively based on organic solvents such as the highly effective but hazardous methylene chloride. In addition, these newer safer/'greener' strippers tend to act much more slowly, so the stripper needs to be in contact with the workpiece for extended periods; this could undermine &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; of the glue joints, with disastrous consequences.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-01-25T11:03:29.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10465" CreationDate="2021-01-25T14:36:35.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;brad&amp;quot; on a brad-point bit is the center point. It bites into the wood easily and helps to keep the bit from wandering when you start your hole. The &amp;quot;lip&amp;quot; is the outer edge of the bit, which protrudes a bit to slice the wood fibers at the edge of the hole so that you end up with a very clean hole. Personally, I think of lipped bits as having an outside cutter that's distinct from the rest of the cutting edge, as in this one from Lee Valley:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VFi0r.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VFi0r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lee Valley brad point bit&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I've also seen people use the term for bits where the cutting edge is just angled inward, so that the outside edge cuts first, like this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0NqA9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0NqA9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Brad point bit photo from Wikipedia&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both styles do a better job in wood than normal twist bits that are often ground to an angle of 135° because brad point bits don't wander, don't need a pilot hole, and cut a cleaner edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2021-01-25T14:36:35.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11468" CreationDate="2021-01-25T19:42:05.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to create a 1/2&amp;quot; cutout that takes away a quarter piece of the rod (1/4 of the circle, like 1 slice of pizza if the pizza is cut into quarters) so that the corners of the wooden slab will fit right into the notches and hold up the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two methods:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Since the corners of the slab will be hidden inside the leg, it doesn't matter if they're square or not. You can cut straight notches in the legs using a router, table saw, etc., and then clip the corners of the slab at 45° so that they fit into the slot. You'll probably want a dowel, screw, or some sort of other fastener to secure the joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a router with a 1/2&amp;quot; bit to cut the notch. This will leave one side of the notch flat and the other side rounded. You can deal with this in a number of ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;square up the second side with a chisel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;round the edge of the slab where it fits into the notch with a router, sandpaper, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;flip and rotate the leg and cut the notch with the router again, so that the end of the bit squares up the part of the notch that was previously cut by the side of the bit and therefore rounded; this will leave just a tiny bit in the corner that will need to be squared with a chisel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; if the slab is &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; held at the corners, and if there's nothing else to hold the legs in place, your table will not last long. Even with the full notches of method 2 above, any sideways forces on the top will put huge pressure on the corners of the slab and break either the joint or the slab. You really need additional bracing to help keep the legs from breaking free. Those braces could take the form of cross braces going between opposite corners and crossing in the middle, or stretchers that run between adjacent legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2021-01-26T15:06:28.310" LastActivityDate="2021-01-26T15:06:28.310" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5811" CreationDate="2021-01-26T22:56:18.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Years later, I found out that the hairpin leg must be attached to the top board in a way that the angle between the board and the leg is not 90 degrees. The legs should look a little spread to make it stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3556" LastActivityDate="2021-01-26T22:56:18.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11475" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11477" CreationDate="2021-01-27T17:27:03.860" Score="1" ViewCount="3162" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to start construction of a shop cabinet, and it will involve a fair bit of gluing with standard yellow carpenter's glue. Unfortunately, my garage/shop is unheated and only partially insulated (i.e. uninsulated).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Outdoor temps are in the 30 to 40°F (-1 to 5°C) range with the garage slightly warmer but not windy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What impact will this have on glue up?&lt;/strong&gt; Will it only impact drying time or will it also impact the strength of the joint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been bringing some smaller projects inside to glue them and let the glue dry, however, I don't think the dining room table will be the idea surface for gluing up something larger like a cabinet, and I don't have the handy floor space to store it (and all the clamps) for 24-hours while the glue dries. I could run the air hose from the garage through the dog door to minimize the cold air infiltration as I nail the corners together, but it's really the glue I'm concerned about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got a propane heater and could knock together some sort of structure to tent over with a tarp, but I'm a bit concerned about burning it down, so this might be a last resort option. I also don't know just how warm it would actually get inside. &lt;strong&gt;Would this be worth investigating?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2021-01-28T09:53:35.367" Title="What is the impact of cold temperatures on glue joints?" Tags="|glue|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11456" CreationDate="2021-01-27T17:50:29.310" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the spirit of doing the easiest fix first you could experiment with a coat of darker stain, gel stain or whatever. The problem is that you are starting with inconsistent starting points - two slightly different colors - so I'd expect them to be different only darker. Maybe it would be close enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a big fan of seeing the wood but another easy way to get a consistent finish would be to paint it. (I cringe even as I suggest it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it's a lot of work and I hate to say it but when I've come out with finishing results I didn't like I've sanded it down to bare wood and started over.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Try a different product the second time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6222" LastActivityDate="2021-01-27T17:50:29.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11475" CreationDate="2021-01-28T09:53:35.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The usage guidelines given for glues may be conservative (like those provided with finishes tend to be) but you can't have confidence in joints done using a glue below its minimum stated temperature; where strength is important err on the side of caution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not like PVAs won't glue at all when it's cold, but strength can be severely compromised as any quick tests done in the home workshop should confirm&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We need some numbers, what temperature &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; the minimum it's safe to work at? It'll vary from glue to glue, so every user will need to check for themselves. But I'll give examples from Franklin Adhesives, makers of Titebond, since that's possibly the most popular PVA in the US market and in use around the world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For Titebond III:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;To assure a good bond, &lt;strong&gt;45°F&lt;/strong&gt; is the lowest recommended temperature of the glue, air and materials during application.*&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;45°F = 7°C&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And note this is the minimum, the basic guideline temp is &amp;quot;above 47°F&amp;quot; (8.3°C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For Titebond II:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;To assure a good bond, &lt;strong&gt;55°F&lt;/strong&gt; is the lowest recommended temperature of the glue, air and materials during application.*&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;55°F = 13°C&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Titebond Original it is between these two temperature, 50°F (10°C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Warm the project?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Warming both the glue and the wood seems like a good idea, and it is in theory, but it may not be practical inside the workshop because it's not enough to just raise the temperature of the room before you start work. Because, as we know, wood is a poor conductor of heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result it takes quite a long time for wood to warm up fully. And a warm surface alone may not be enough to ensure the PVA dries and then cures properly, plus the glue itself in its bottle will take &lt;em&gt;ages&lt;/em&gt; to reach the ambient temperature just sitting in air&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. So really you'd want to warm the working area up from the night before. Ditto if you move the wood to a warmer place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Switch adhesives&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You could seek out an adhesive that's less sensitive to lower temps. This seems like the ideal solution, but the news is still not great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original Gorilla glue is apparently suitable for use down to 40°F (4.4°C). Other foaming polyurethane adhesives may be similar or they may not, you will need to check their packaging or the manufacturer's website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case when the temperature drops too low to use PVAs and the project can't wait that means I reach for epoxy. Epoxies as we know cure via a chemical reaction between the two components, more slowly at low temps and faster at higher temps, but they do still cure down to surprisingly low temperatures (in case it needs to be spelled out, &lt;em&gt;if you leave them long enough&lt;/em&gt;). When I use 5-min epoxy in a very cold workshop (below 5°C, 41°F) I make sure not to disturb the item for at least 12 hours&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;, and don't subject it to any strain for a day at absolute minimum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An advantage of using epoxies at these temperatures is that the working time is quite a bit longer than normal, which is nice, but the long wait for it to cure can be a pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rely on joinery and/or fasteners&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Nails and screws don't care what the temperature is :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's a bit limiting of course, so winter time is perhaps the ideal time to practice joints that don't rely on glue, e.g. tusk tenons and drawbored tenons. Also anything that inherently holds together such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5048/how-do-i-cut-this-corner-joint/5052#5052&quot;&gt;lock mitres&lt;/a&gt;, and dovetails naturally, which can then be secured with pegs, dowels or brads that are inserted in such a way that they physically prevent the joint from separating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This same principle can be extended to joinery that doesn't self-lock such as finger/comb/box joints, which can be locked together using dowels/brads driven in from both directions, even better if used dovetail fashion (at opposing angles) and stronger still, diagonally across the joint. Another option is a through peg running vertically through the fingers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; In one test I did on a particularly cold day I was able to easily separate two lengths of plywood glued at their ends, barely disturbing the surface veneer (a few fibres came off). Normally you would expect the veneers to almost fully peel from the next ply because PVA joints, if done right, are noticeably stronger than the factory glue joints in plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; If you need to warm a bottle of glue, or finish for that matter, and you can't wait hours place it in warm water!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; So no taking clamps off, or even moving the glue-up if it's heavy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-01-28T09:53:35.367" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11478" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11481" CreationDate="2021-01-28T13:56:14.347" Score="3" ViewCount="164" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on a piece where it would be really interesting if I could regulate the distance between two pieces (in order to achieve a better securing of the piece).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By scouring the internet I found a great solution but I am just not sure how to implement it and it is giving me a headache trying to figure it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, you have a threaded rod that spans two pieces and by tightening the nut you would bring the piece above closer or farther away. Something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eqWf8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eqWf8.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;or&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YS7od.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YS7od.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a name for this so I can look more into it? Is it a simple threaded rod which is fixed on one side?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9804" LastActivityDate="2021-01-28T21:24:45.947" Title="What is the name of this way of Joining?" Tags="|joinery|technique|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11456" CreationDate="2021-01-28T16:12:56.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Congratualations. You've just discovered that birch is really hard to stain well. It is noted (notorious) for being blotchy. Welcome to the club.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As David D has answered, if you want a stained wood surface you're going to have to sand through the stain and get rid of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of approaches to staining blotchy wood. One is to coat the wood with a sealer like shellac and then stain. Another is to to use something like a gel stain. You can see both here &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XL_58_22SEA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XL_58_22SEA&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that MinWax, who you'd think know something about stains, says,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Less expensive than hard maple, birch is often substituted for maple in furniture and kitchen cabinets. But, like hard maple, birch wood does not absorb stain evenly and should not be stained with dark colored stains. When staining, first apply a pre-stain wood conditioner, then select stains lighter in color.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is lots of info about staining birch on the internet, so just search on &amp;quot;birch stain blotch&amp;quot; or something like it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, file away the fact that lots of woods have more or less blotching issues, including maple and cherry. Do some research (or at least test panels) before staining a new wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="463" LastActivityDate="2021-01-28T16:12:56.317" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11478" CreationDate="2021-01-28T18:52:18.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know that is has a name. It's an arrangement of hardware designed to provide adjustment for a variety of use cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the bottom picture the top part looks like a &lt;a href=&quot;https://furniturelevelor.com/product/100-t-nut-38-16/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;three hole T-Nut&lt;/a&gt; with a threaded rod and then a nut and spring washer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TUtz4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TUtz4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are T-Nuts that have the nails built in&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x3wyz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x3wyz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a very rough drawing&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TU5LI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TU5LI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6222" LastActivityDate="2021-01-28T18:52:18.920" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11478" CreationDate="2021-01-28T21:24:45.947" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears that one of the possible terms is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=SJ081&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;turnbuckle jack screw&lt;/a&gt;. The link connects to a site that sells both metric and SAE versions (link is metric). The kit linked includes the required left hand threaded nut and the right hand threaded nut and the screw itself, of course:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XTNG0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XTNG0.png&quot; alt=&quot;turnbuckle jack screw&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nuts described by David D in his answer do not appear to be available in left hand thread versions. The Google provides plenty of links for T-nuts (RH), nut inserts for wood (RH) but no LH versions of either. As the kit provides one left-hand nut, one could consider to have a fastening plate brazed or welded to the nut, or to cut a recess into the surface, or devise another method of securing the nut provided.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2021-01-28T21:24:45.947" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11482" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11483" CreationDate="2021-01-29T15:15:22.860" Score="1" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm learning to use an inherited wood lathe, and would like to turn a basic bowl.  I have a couple of face plates but no three-jaw chuck (and no funds to buy one right now).  I have read you can use something called &amp;quot;turners tape&amp;quot; to hold the bottom of a bowl to a face plate.  Does carpet tape work as well?  It is easy to run to the local hardware store and buy carpet tape, it will take a little longer to source some turners tape.  Will I end up ruining my work piece if my tool catches and I'm using carpet tape?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8547" LastActivityDate="2021-01-29T17:22:44.507" Title="Use of carpet tape for turning a bowl" Tags="|turning|lathe|bowl|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11482" CreationDate="2021-01-29T17:22:44.507" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read you can use something called &amp;quot;turners tape&amp;quot; to hold the bottom of a bowl to a face plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/wXxC45jhDbc&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;, Mike Peace demonstrates using turner's tape for holding &lt;em&gt;small&lt;/em&gt; items. He says he uses it sometimes for reversing a &lt;em&gt;small&lt;/em&gt; bowl, lids for boxes, etc. What's nice about it is that you don't need to leave a tenon for the chuck to grab onto. Also, it's flexible, so the mating surfaces don't necessarily have to be flat as long as they fit together well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice that the taped part of the bowl in the video is a significant portion of the overall diameter of the workpiece. Turner's tape would likely not be a good choice for large or even medium sized bowl where the foot is small compared to the bowl's diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does carpet tape work as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No.&lt;/strong&gt; At least, Mike emphasizes several times in the video that turner's tape is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; carpet tape, and he talks about the very strong bond that you can get with turner's tape. Turner's tape is a cloth tape with strong adhesive, so it's more likely to bond well to slightly irregular surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use carpet tape all the time for things like holding a template in place for routing. It works very well for that, but there's no way I'd trust it to hold a workpiece spinning at hundreds of RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a proper four-jaw scroll chuck isn't an option (three-jaw chucks are used more for metal work), and if you can't get turner's tape right away, consider a different option such as gluing the bottom of the bowl to a sacrificial piece that's screwed to a face plate. And again, without a chuck, keep the work small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will I end up ruining my work piece if my tool catches and I'm using carpet tape?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your tool catches you might ruin your piece anyway, but if it catches while you're using carpet tape it might ruin your day as well. Be sure to stand outside the line of fire if you try it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2021-01-29T17:22:44.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11485" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11491" CreationDate="2021-01-30T23:50:01.440" Score="4" ViewCount="1073" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a chair that had it's back broken off (both stiles and two spindles, pic below).  Everything broke just above the seat.  It's no loss to us if it cannot be fixed, but I enjoy repairing things.  Can this be fixed without replacing the stiles or spindles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A major problem is one of the stiles is missing a piece (right side in pic).  They were made with a slit at the bottom, wherein a wedge was inserted after the back was joined to the seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what I've considered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Just glue everything.  I know wood glue is really strong, but the joints will be under severe torque here, so I dislike this option.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glue the two spindles and one stile back together, drill down the center of each and glue an oak dowel in.  I like this option because the oak will add support with some flexibility. The problem I see here is the spindles are only 1/2&amp;quot; diameter...so I cannot put a very big dowel in there (maybe 1/4&amp;quot; max?).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the stile with a missing piece: I don't know how to tackle that.   Can I just cut the stile flush, glue a bit of dowel onto the end, drill out the middle and glue in a smaller dowel for additional support?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bNlf0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bNlf0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;chair back&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AvnXk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AvnXk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;chair seat&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9810" LastEditorUserId="9810" LastEditDate="2021-02-01T16:06:55.390" LastActivityDate="2021-02-02T10:37:23.400" Title="How to repair broken spindles on chair?" Tags="|furniture|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11486" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11496" CreationDate="2021-01-31T02:05:01.833" Score="1" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on building a circular cabinet where each shelf would have a different radius. All the shelves would be centered using a central pole running through their center. The cabinet will be surrounded by a frame to place the outer layer on it but it's not going to be that strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering about how to support all of the shelves, what I thought of doing was placing spaced narrow boards (5cm width) in a semi circle layout or about ~210° (so as to not block the cabinet doors) between each pair of shelves. Each shelf (made of pine) would have to support about 15kg of weight. How many boards do you think would be enough? For example, if a 25cm radius shelf would have 13 boards (5cm width) spaced 8cm apart supporting it, would that be too many or too few?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shelf would like this from above - the rectangles are the support boards and the bottom part is where the cabinet doors would go:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OqPr2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OqPr2.png&quot; alt=&quot;shelf layout&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic layout of the cabinet is this (sorry for the crudeness of the sketch):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YAtxB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YAtxB.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9811" LastEditorUserId="9811" LastEditDate="2021-01-31T04:03:09.077" LastActivityDate="2021-02-03T23:31:03.890" Title="Advice about building circular cabinet" Tags="|design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11487" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-01T10:49:28.783" Score="0" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am resurfacing my workbench with 25mm hardwood ply. I am inverting an up/down router and tablesaw into it (between tracks).&#xA;I want to use thinner insert plates (for the zero clearence saw and so that both tools can raise and lower)&#xA;What material for the inserts should I use?&#xA;I want a max. of 10mm thick, prob. about 150 x 150mm and 100 x 150mm.&#xA;Would MDF be smooth and strong enough, some sort of formica faced material ... alternative suggestions?&#xA;Thank you in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9823" LastActivityDate="2021-02-02T07:24:00.503" Title="DIY table saw installation" Tags="|table-saw|workbench|router-table|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11485" CreationDate="2021-02-01T17:15:08.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you're on the right track with using dowels to reinforce the joints, but I'd go further and use steel rods. Cut the styles and spindles at the paint line, and then drill them to receive steel rods. You could use 1/4&amp;quot; rod for the spindles and 3/8&amp;quot; or 1/2&amp;quot; rod for the stiles. I'd drill deep into the stiles, maybe 4&amp;quot; or 5&amp;quot;, and use a drill press so the holes are clean and straight. The spindles don't need to go as deep -- 1&amp;quot; should be fine. Cut the rods so that they'll protrude enough to reach to the bottom of the seat, and glue them in with epoxy. Position the back in the holes, clamp, flip the chair over, and fill the holes in the seat with epoxy thickened with enough fine sawdust/wood flour to make a thick paste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2021-02-01T17:15:08.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11485" CreationDate="2021-02-02T10:37:23.400" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;While it alters the height of the back, a reasonably simple repair would be to cut new tenons on the existing spindles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Commercial tenon cutters exist (for instance, see Lee Valley), but they're an expensive proposition for a one-off repair like this. A bit of work with a knife and a rasp should get you pretty close to a fit. A bit of sanding and you should be nice and snug. If you trim too much off, I'd suggest epoxy instead of regular wood glue to fill the voids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like the three middle spindles are stub tenons and that the sides go all the way through. That means you'll cut the middle spindles a bit shorter than the sides before you form the tenons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original might have had a wedge in the bottom of the main spindles. It probably wouldn't hurt to do this, but two caveats: modern adhesives are pretty good (especially if you use the epoxy), and over-enthusiastic wedging can break the seat apart. There are plenty of chair/stool making resources that'll talk about wedges if you're so inclined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2021-02-02T10:37:23.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7795" CreationDate="2021-02-02T16:40:11.663" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wow, danish oil and polyurethane are two opposite ends of the spectrum! You can't apply a finish like danish oil (tung oil, etc.) to something like this. It will never dry. Poly will probably end up being a big thick mess because it will pool into all your etching and make it look like a cheezy 70's decopauge. The right answer for this is lacquer. This is a thin finish that dries fast and is intended to be built up to the desired thickness without sanding in between coats (each successive layer slightly dissolves the one under it). i make lots of projects like this and use spray on lacquer. The stuff in the spray cans from Mohawk is ideal for this if you're not making a lot of plaques (otherwise you can buy an HVLP sprayer). If you want it darker, use a product called &amp;quot;toner.&amp;quot; First, carefully sand the top by hand using a large flat block with a finer grit sandpaper (320, 400  is about right). Blow all the dust off using an air compressor. Then use the spray toner to achieve the desired darkness. It's cool to be creative and, say, apply more to the outside to make it darker than the middle. After this cures, spray coats of clear lacquer to the desired thickness. All this can be done in a day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9839" LastActivityDate="2021-02-02T16:40:11.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10554" CreationDate="2021-02-03T14:56:27.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note: while writing this question realized making a two biscuit cuts parallel to each other would do the trick too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My biscuit joiner came with an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ereplacementparts.com/alignment-plate-p-60781.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;alignment plate&lt;/a&gt; that snaps over the fence to raise the blade the thickness of the blade kerf, so that you can easily cut double thickness slots for double biscuit joints. If yours didn't, you can accomplish the same thing by planing a piece of wood to the thickness of your machine's kerf, and cut two slots in the same place, once with and once without that shim in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2021-02-03T14:56:27.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11494" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-03T15:27:16.943" Score="0" ViewCount="178" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can the wood slats or MDF be purchased pre-cut ready to assemble? If available does this product go by another name? I have read the article detailing how to make this using carpentry equipment but I am interested in buying them pre slotted for assembly. Thanks in advance for your time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9843" LastActivityDate="2021-07-03T21:00:15.030" Title="Grid pattern made out of thin wood slats or MDF" Tags="|wood|plywood|mdf|storage|materials|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11494" CreationDate="2021-02-03T19:40:05.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can &lt;strike&gt;the&lt;/strike&gt; wood slats or MDF be purchased pre-cut ready to assemble?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how you want to assemble them, yes. Most home centers sell strips known as &lt;em&gt;lath&lt;/em&gt;, usually in bundles of 50. The strips are usually about 1 1/2&amp;quot; wide, 1/4&amp;quot; or 5/16&amp;quot; thick, and 4' or 6' long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lath strips used to be used as the foundation for plaster walls: they were nailed to bare wall studs with spaces, and then the plaster was applied over them and pushed through them. As the plaster oozed through the spaces, it would droop on the far side and naturally form a sort of hook that secured the plaster to the wall. These days, of course, sheet rock is much more common, but you can still get the lath strips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what project you have in mind, but lath strips could be assembled into lattice for fencing, a trellis, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strips in other sizes are also available, and go by different names depending on their size and customary use. &lt;em&gt;Furring strips&lt;/em&gt; are nominally 1&amp;quot; thick (so really closer to 3/4&amp;quot;) and 2&amp;quot;, 3&amp;quot;, or 4&amp;quot; wide. &lt;em&gt;Moulding&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;casing&lt;/em&gt; are two names for strips that usually have fancy profiles but may be plain, and which come in a variety of styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2021-02-03T19:48:43.470" LastActivityDate="2021-02-03T19:48:43.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11486" CreationDate="2021-02-03T23:23:33.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the comments by Graphus and Ashlar, it seems that I indeed overestimated the amount of support boards I would need. Since the weight is transferred mostly vertically, only 4 support boards would really be needed and any more will add support but will serve a mostly aesthetic reason. So for the example case I provided of a 25cm radius shelf, 8 would be a good number of support boards I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I didn't find in my initial research curved shelf brackets that could be attached to the central dowel / pole but I hadn't thought of using metal closet rod end flanges for this purpose. They would be attached like in this example &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplifiedbuilding.com/projects/diy-floating-shelves&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.simplifiedbuilding.com/projects/diy-floating-shelves&lt;/a&gt; (in this case the pole is metal but the principal is the same). In this way, the shelf would be supported by the pole but I believe the support boards are still needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9811" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2021-02-03T23:31:03.890" LastActivityDate="2021-02-03T23:31:03.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3936" CreationDate="2021-02-04T05:01:26.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love mine. I have built several long boat oars and spars over the years and an electric hand plane is the ideal roughing out tool. I use them to reduce cross section/taper over long lengths and for making square stock round or oval (using a spar gauge).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9823" LastActivityDate="2021-02-04T05:01:26.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11498" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11500" CreationDate="2021-02-04T20:51:24.353" Score="4" ViewCount="462" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the HP-250-3/400 planer combined with a thicknesser:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0izhY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0izhY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thicknesser has a feeding mechanism which pulls the board into the machine at a constant speed, much like in this video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/T4vl2IM1IJw?t=999&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/T4vl2IM1IJw?t=999&lt;/a&gt; (similar machine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that &lt;strong&gt;with my machine it works only for small planks&lt;/strong&gt;. When I have a big board, I usually have to &lt;strong&gt;push it with all my might&lt;/strong&gt; into the machine, otherwise it gets stuck and the rotating blade forms a &amp;quot;channel&amp;quot; in its middle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to vary the delta that is shaved off by the thicknesser, but nothing seems to help. What can be the problem and how can I solve it? My machine is brand new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The feed rollers are parallel. As far as I know, they are set in a cast iron wall of the machine and they are not adjustable at all. I will do the narrow plank experiment as soon as I am with the machine again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The feed rollers are a little greasy and when I set the thickness delta too large I see equally spaced (5mm space) grease stripes perpendicular to the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By a big board I mean 150 x 20 x 3 cm or 60 x 8 x 1 inches. I will experiment with different sizes soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a handle to start the feeding rollers. This is just an on/off switch and I make sure to have it turned on. There is a lever that needs to be released before one adjusts the height of the bed. I tried both with the lever locked back into place and the lever released. It seems that the thicknesser bed is resting on a set of strong springs and that there is some allowance to the movement of the bed - meaning it is not absolutely fixed to the rest of the machine. It can move a couple of millimeters. This allowance is diminished when I lock the lever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5579" LastEditorUserId="5579" LastEditDate="2021-02-06T12:30:31.877" LastActivityDate="2022-10-20T17:43:14.923" Title="Why do I need to push the plank into the thicknesser?" Tags="|thickness-planer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11498" CreationDate="2021-02-07T03:46:07.870" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This isn't unusual - even for reasonably high-end industrial thicknessers costing $5k upwards. I've used a few different makes/models and this has always been an issue with wider boards. The feed rollers only have so much grip. It's typically just friction of the timber against the bed, combined with lack of friction with the feed rollers (you said they are a little greasy - this won't help). If your timber is damp or a species with a lot of sticky resin it will tend to &amp;quot;stick&amp;quot; to the bed more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turn the machine off and unplug it (if it has a plug connection), and lock it out if possible so that it can't come on, and clean off the feed rollers with some shop towel or rag and something to remove the grease (rubbing alcohol will work for most things).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also lubricate the bed of the machine. You can use candle wax, beeswax, and Wurth (a European company who I believe operate across Europe, the UK, and North America) do a product called &amp;quot;Wood Glide&amp;quot; which is for this purpose. You can also use silicone-based lubricant sprays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever you use for a lubricant, check that it won't cause any issues with your finish afterwards, or make sure that you've sanded it off thoroughly - some waxes and especially silicone can cause havoc with finishes and there are likely other interactions which are possible too. Silicone spray droplets left on timber will result in little &amp;quot;pin-pricks&amp;quot; in paint finishes (and probably most kinds of stain, oil etc.) because the silicone droplets repel the finish, leaving tiny holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastEditorUserId="272" LastEditDate="2021-02-14T02:43:40.113" LastActivityDate="2021-02-14T02:43:40.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11502" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-07T21:22:24.773" Score="1" ViewCount="413" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1mfxF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1mfxF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are installing some cabinets with built in bookshelves and like the look and durability that a hardwood countertop would provide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our question is how to replicate the example installation above and still allow for countertop expansion.  Suppose the bookshelves were to rest fully on the countertop thus sandwiching the countertop between the cabinet base and bookshelves above.  Would that restrict movement enough to cause damage to the countertop as it expands and contracts?  If so, what would be the best way to secure the built in bookshelves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our initial plan was to lay the bookshelves on top of the countertop.  Then, we'd secure the bookshelves to the wall using cabinet screws.  Attaching the countertop to the cabinet base would be done using the screw method below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the back, normal screws would be used allowing no movement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the front, channels for screws would be routed out in the countertop supports running perpendicular to the wood grain. Expansion would occur toward the face of the cabinet.  This is done so the countertop may be installed flush against the wall.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this approach viable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9864" LastEditorUserId="9864" LastEditDate="2021-02-07T21:39:39.357" LastActivityDate="2021-11-09T20:02:45.390" Title="Expansion of wood countertop with built in bookshelves resting on it" Tags="|wood|hardwood|expansion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11503" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11530" CreationDate="2021-02-07T21:28:02.433" Score="0" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;A while back I built a pinewood drafting table for myself. The mechanism works great but I find that papers, books and my laptop sometimes slide down the table. I don’t want to coat the table with a thick paint or a mat because I like the look of the wood. However I am looking for some type of clear varnish or finish that will stop things from slipping (in the same way that some slanted desks have a rubbery surface)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9863" LastActivityDate="2021-02-16T15:29:23.127" Title="Clear varnish for textured coat" Tags="|wood|table-making|varnish|pine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11504" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-07T23:29:47.143" Score="1" ViewCount="232" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen many home made router table fences where the sacrificial plates have a 45 degree angle at their vertical edge at the table router side. Examples are &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YtCLAtzvVhc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.raugh.net/woodnerd/jointing-with-the-router/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/one-weekend-router-table-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lSS71i_4Yrw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://holzwerkerblog.de/werkstatt-2/frasen/frastisch-als-erweiterung-fur-die-tischkreissage/#&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HhEGU3BqK54&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.holzundleim.de/2015/12/erfahrungsbericht-fraestisch/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why are the edges of these parts cut in a 45 degree? It is an excess task during the process, especially if one does not have a table saw at his disposal and I can see only the very marginal benefit of having the guiding fence a few millimeter closer to the router in the case of a very shallow rabbet for very short working pieces. In all other cases a &amp;quot;normal&amp;quot; 90 degree cut would result in the same guiding function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since so many people do this, there has to be some reason behind it. What could it be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9865" LastActivityDate="2021-07-12T05:01:20.103" Title="Why do many router table fences have a 45 degree vertical edge at the router side?" Tags="|router-table|fence|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11505" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-08T07:43:11.663" Score="5" ViewCount="11971" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do a good amount of repair and this comes up quite often. Here is a typical situation from today, fixing a chair frame - one of the frame beams broke off and ripped out about half of the layers of half inch plywood leaving a rugged surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I braced the joint but I want to fill the area between the new wood piece on top of the ripped out plywood and well the ripped plywood. Looks, sandability, color, none of it matters since this is all hidden inside and I only care about holding power. Question is what is the strongest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;JP weld wood filler product&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wood dust with wood glue&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;epoxy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;epoxy with wood dust&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;any other products?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9309" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2021-02-09T00:19:03.947" LastActivityDate="2023-09-20T20:53:54.780" Title="What is the strongest wood filler?" Tags="|glue|epoxy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11505" CreationDate="2021-02-08T09:42:12.487" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There isn't a single definitive answer to this because many of the options have variables that affect the properties of the set/hardened product. Obviously this includes any blends of an adhesive with a wood dust or other powder, but it's also relevant to straight epoxy products and other two-part fillers where there is a separate hardener — in some products only slight variations in proportions can greatly affect final strength (usually negatively).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in no particular order I'll list some very strong fillers that can be used interchangeably for some jobs, but not all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bondo and similar&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Bondo, and other polyester fillers, are the go-to product for many people working with wood where strength is the requirement. They are easy and fast to mix, bond very well to wood, harden quickly and dry extremely hard&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. On the downside they have a characteristic sweet plastic odour (you're smelling styrene) that some people find objectionable and is toxic at high concentrations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically only the one consistency is available to the user.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Epoxy + filler&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Where a combination of adhesive properties and filling are required &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; choice is going to be epoxy + a dry filler material. Filled epoxy is extensively used in boatbuilding so its strength and resilience is well proven. The filler used is chiefly wood dust but there are other filler powders possible as well as some additives, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3807/large-hole-filler-products-what-is-available/3809#3809&quot;&gt;Large hole filler products, what is available&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filled epoxy mixtures can be varied greatly in consistency, obviously by using more or less filler but some epoxies are more viscous and others much more liquid so the starting point can vary too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order of increasing thickness the consistencies that seem to be most used are generally likened to ketchup, mayonnaise and peanut butter. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.westsystem.com/instruction-2/epoxy-basics/modifying-with-fillers-additives/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; on the West Systems site for more info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Epoxy putty/wood filler&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You could think of this as the factory-made version of the above, although it's not really similar to many DIY mixtures and you have just the one consistency to work with. Also, these generally set quickly, often in under 10 minutes and sometimes as quickly as five (faster in warmer conditions!) so they can't practically be used for large repairs unless you work layer by layer, or in sections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are usually sold in 'Tootsie Roll' form, where one component is wrapped around the other. This is a major weakness with all fillers sold this way, because the two parts are already touching obviously over time this starts the hardening process in the resin. So &lt;em&gt;even sometimes in product you've just bought&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; when you blend the putty you'll find hard lumps that are annoying at least, and bad enough that you can't continue to do the repair at worst. DAMHIK -_-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend this sort of thing only to someone who does a lot of repair work so will use it up fairly quickly, &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; can buy from a source where there is a fast enough turnover that you never get old stock that has sat on the shelf too long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Durham's water putty&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If you're in North America this is one other product worth mentioning that I don't think is sold in most other markets. Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty™ to give it its full name may be the oldest option on the list since it has been on shelves since before WWII.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also dries very hard, and again perhaps a little too hard for some applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Durham's comes as a dry powder that must be mixed with water to form a paste or putty. Multiple consistencies are possible by simply adding more or less water, but note it appears to be strongest when mixed close to the default water:powder ratio — 3:1 by weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; A little &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; hard for some purposes. Bear this in mind if working with softer materials (most softwoods, softer hardwoods, MDF, some plywoods) where you need to sand flush with surrounding surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; You often can't tell how long it has sat on a shelf before you picked it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2021-02-09T00:20:26.710" LastActivityDate="2021-02-09T00:20:26.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11507" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-08T20:49:30.843" Score="4" ViewCount="366" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 4&amp;quot; thick, 10.5&amp;quot; wide by 120&amp;quot; long poplar board (read heavy) that I was originally going to saw into workbench bench legs but now want to saw into a handrailing. Any ideas on how to saw so that it is 4&amp;quot; wide?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have Laguna 14BX 14&amp;quot; bandsaw, do you think if it is properly supported (I have a king resaw blade on it) that will work? Otherwise I have a 3hp sawstop, but wound't cut all the way through nor a circular saw. Thanks for the help, it'd be expensive or worse to mess it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9873" LastActivityDate="2022-05-04T20:58:55.363" Title="Advice for cutting a thick, wide, poplar board" Tags="|wood|cutting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11507" CreationDate="2021-02-09T02:31:08.657" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could rip it both on the table saw and on the band saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the table saw, you'll need to do at least two cuts, as the depth of cut probably is around 3&amp;quot;. If the board is straight and has a clean edge and the table saw is well setup you should have a nearly seamless cut. I've done the same on 4x4's with great success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Band saws typically have good height capacity, and I'm sure your 14&amp;quot; saw can handle 4&amp;quot; to thickness (my 10&amp;quot; Delta will easily resaw 6&amp;quot; with a good blade).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both cases, support both the infeed and the outfeed. You could experiment with a piece of 2x6 that you rip to 4&amp;quot; width and then rip again facing up (i.e. the 1.5&amp;quot; side sitting on the table of the saw). Do this with a 2' piece to get the feel of sawing your 4&amp;quot; thick board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2021-02-09T02:31:08.657" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11509" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11510" CreationDate="2021-02-09T12:02:01.243" Score="0" ViewCount="749" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a custom wardrobe which has two elements, each should have a sliding door. The dimensions of each door will be about 1700x800. There will be a wooden frame of 60x60 slats where I'd like to attach the doors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xv1OFm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xv1OFm.png&quot; alt=&quot;door frame&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How could I attach sliding doors which lock airtight when closed? They don't need to be perfectly airtight, but there should be nearly no gaps between the doors and the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a readymade system that I can just attach (I didn't find any that look nearly airtight) or do I have to build one myself and if so, what is the best way to do it? Or is it just not possible with sliding doors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9875" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-02-09T17:38:34.553" LastActivityDate="2021-02-10T18:06:24.873" Title="Building an airtight sliding door for a wardrobe" Tags="|technique|cabinetry|door|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11509" CreationDate="2021-02-10T18:06:24.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, the exterior doors to your house are (or, at least, can be made) reasonably air tight. You'll want to use similar type seals for your door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking a product similar to this self adhesive gasket:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3l0xp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3l0xp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image of &lt;em&gt;M-D 20-ft x 1/2-in Black Door Seal Silicone Door Weatherstrip&lt;/em&gt; supplied by Lowes.com. No endorsement of product or vendor intended or implied. Shown as an example only.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your door runs inside a channel, put this gasket on both sides of the channel, all the way around the door. If it runs across the surface, put it on the frame and let the door slide across it, compressing slightly as it does, for a good seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As noted by Graphus in his comment on your question, getting the door to slide nicely against the seals could be difficult. Also, they're really not designed for sliding, but for compression only, so the seals may wear out far more quickly than they would on a front door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For added ease of sliding the door and longevity of the seals, you might try designing a &amp;quot;plug&amp;quot; door like you would see on a workman's van. This would slide a centimeter or so from the wall, then push in toward the wall as it closed the last cm or so, compressing against the gasket, making a seal. Making this kind of sealing mechanism would take a bit of engineering on your part and some precision routing of channels at the top and bottom for it to run in so that it can execute the &amp;quot;plug&amp;quot; motion smoothly at the top &amp;amp; bottom, left &amp;amp; right sides, at exactly the same time and by the same depth so that it provides a good seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2021-02-10T18:06:24.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11511" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11520" CreationDate="2021-02-10T19:22:54.327" Score="6" ViewCount="7844" Body="&lt;p&gt;When making French cleats for hanging cabinetry (or other wall-hanging things), plywood (1/2&amp;quot; or 3/4&amp;quot;) seems to be an ideal choice as it's strong, stable and, generally pretty straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I don't have any plywood available, what other factors should I consider when selecting wood to make the cleats?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I consider when determining how big to make them? Logically, I would think the cleat should basically run from one edge of the hanging thing to the other - is that the general idea? What should I consider when determining how tall to make the pieces?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-02-13T21:13:14.117" LastActivityDate="2021-02-13T21:13:14.117" Title="How do I size and select wood for French cleats?" Tags="|wood|cabinetry|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11512" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-12T02:29:18.997" Score="0" ViewCount="359" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a wooden countertop that I covered with a thin layer of epoxy and, as a beginner, I made a messy job and there are brush strokes on it. Some days ago I started sanding it with a sander with different RPM’s. I started with a 180 grit and different RPM’s. In both cases, I turned my working area into a messy White-Christmas landscape. The low RPM option was less messy. However, I’m not sure which option is the “healthiest” for the layer. I assume that a high speed makes the abrasion hot, therefore destroying the epoxy layer (I also found this explanation somewhere), but is it an issue to even consider? Can anyone help me understand which option is “ideal” for sanding epoxy? Low or high RPM and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8663" LastActivityDate="2021-02-12T18:36:11.097" Title="High or Low RPM for sanding Epoxy layer on wood?" Tags="|finishing|sanding|epoxy|sander|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11504" CreationDate="2021-02-12T03:41:25.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;there has to be some reason behind it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fence is often set to expose only a portion of the bit. Removing some of the fence material behind the front face let’s you position the face of the fence closer to the bit without hitting it in such cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2021-02-12T03:41:25.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10707" CreationDate="2021-02-12T16:11:23.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The actual answer was provided in a comment to the question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, cut it back square so that the very top of the joint looks like a butt joint. That should take care of a lot of that fuzzing. [...] – Aloysius Defenestrate Jun 8 '20 at 2:31&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was never clear in the videos I watched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I got that part down, I was generally cutting the copes correctly first time every time - and I've replaced about 400 ft of baseboard now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8754" LastActivityDate="2021-02-12T16:11:23.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11511" CreationDate="2021-02-12T18:36:10.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For larger loads, try to find hardwood. Maybe something like cherry which resists checking and cracking. With any wood, use a minimum of one half inch thickness, preferably three quarters inch. A plain strip at the lower end of the cabinet, etc, helps to keep the unit plumb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5916" LastActivityDate="2021-02-12T18:36:10.320" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11512" CreationDate="2021-02-12T18:36:11.097" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately this is one of those things which comes down to the ever-regrettable &lt;em&gt;it depends&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are numerous variables that are important to any specific situation of sanding epoxy and they go beyond the basic question of high/low speed being better in general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally I would have asked what sander you're using (not just the type, but the exact sander model can be important) but actually it doesn't matter given all the other variables you also have to take into account, including abrasive type, the grit(s) being used, user technique (hand pressure, dwell time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other key thing of course is the epoxy itself. There are so many epoxies on the market with a range of properties including final hardness, and the temperature at which they begin to soften....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that a high speed makes the abrasion hot, therefore destroying the epoxy layer (I also found this explanation somewhere)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Affect yes, destroy no. Epoxies do soften with heat, but in general you have to get them very hot indeed for them to be damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you were producing fine white dust at all the speeds you tried it seems that in your case speed doesn't matter. A fine white dust is exactly what you look for when sanding any clear finish — if you get excessive loading of your abrasive, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1876/what-are-these-brown-spots-on-my-sandpaper/1878#1878&quot;&gt;corning&lt;/a&gt;, the finish gets gummy/sticky, starts to lift from the surface, these are all signs that you're trying to sand before the finish has hardened enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;An alternative for future consideration&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Scrape instead of sand to get to a reasonably uniform or completely uniform flat surface, then merely sand to refine that. In addition to greatly reducing the load on your abrasives, scraping produces little or no airborne dust, and is nearly silent; here's a little more on why &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1134/what-are-the-differences-between-sanding-and-scraping/1159#1159&quot;&gt;scraping is better than sanding&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You didn't ask about the this but since you mentioned it along the way I thought I'd tackle it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both cases, I turned my working area into a messy White-Christmas landscape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Might I suggest that a priority should be to look at improving your dust collection? Or implementing something if you don't have any yet ^_^&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of or in addition to the in-built dust-collection ports that every (?) sander has, it could be worth making a downdraft table/box. These have certain advantages, including not needing adaptors for every power sander you own if you have a selection, and of course anything like this can be used when hand sanding too which I think is a huge boon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F2SVg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F2SVg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Downdraft tables&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1&lt;/strong&gt; Despite the watermark this is copyright to Fine Woodworking, &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; that site which features &lt;em&gt;100% stolen source material&lt;/em&gt; ◣_◢ &lt;/sup&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q78looH5OPc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Build a Down Draft Sanding Table&lt;/a&gt; from  WV DIY GUY on YouTube&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3&lt;/strong&gt; WoodworkersSource.com&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://go.rockler.com/tech/25077-Down-Draft-Ezplan2.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rockler Downdraft Table Plan&lt;/a&gt; in PDF format&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-02-12T18:36:11.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11502" CreationDate="2021-02-12T18:51:41.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest using a french cleat to secure the bookshelves to the wall. Then have the bookshelves just sit on the countertop. I dont think it is even neccessary to secure it down as the weight of the bookshelf will keep it in place.&#xA;If you want it so the uprights/feet of the bookshelves cannot shift at all you could use some doweling pins into the bottom of the bookshelf feet and the top of the cabinet. If you oversize the holes slightly into the countertop then it will allow for the expansion/contraction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9887" LastActivityDate="2021-02-12T18:51:41.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11511" CreationDate="2021-02-12T21:57:20.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll take a stab at the question in your comment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;how do I size and select wood for making French Cleats&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As used in home settings (kitchens, laundry rooms, pantries, garages, shops), French cleats are typically used to support cabinets and their contents. In my experience, it's common for cleats to be attached to the wall to facilitate hanging cabinets, but once in place the cabinets are often further secured to the wall with cabinet screws rated to support 50 lbs each, sometimes much more. If four screws are used per cabinet, and if the cabinet and contents weigh less than 200 lbs, then, the load carrying capacity of the cleat isn't terribly important: all it really needs to do is to hold the cabinet up until you can get the screws in. With that in mind, strength probably isn't the most important factor in deciding what material to use... you just need something that's thin enough to let the cabinet sit flush against the wall, but thick enough to let the cleat on the back of the cabinet make solid contact with its partner on the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding to this notion that the specific material isn't very important is the fact that the &lt;a href=&quot;https://workshopcompanion.com/KnowHow/Design/Nature_of_Wood/3_Wood_Strength/3_Wood_Strength.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bending strength and compressive strength of common wood species&lt;/a&gt; are measured in the thousands of pounds per square inch. I wouldn't choose amorphous materials like MDF or particle board since they have relatively little structural strength, but plywood and solid wood are both quite strong in compression. As long as they're well connected to the wall, cleats made from solid wood or plywood should be plenty strong enough to hold up a cabinet, and once the cabinet is locked to the wall with additional screws, the cleat has done its job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleats are also often used for hanging smaller objects, e.g. tool holders, shelves, etc. Again, the strength of the cleat is likely to be much greater than the load it has to support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, the best way to know whether your cleat is strong enough is to test it. If in doubt, try pulling downward on the cleat with more force than it's likely to have to endure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2021-02-12T21:57:20.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11511" CreationDate="2021-02-13T09:11:35.477" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I composed my initial Answer based on how the Q was initially posted, as it has been revised this will feature a blend of quotes from the original and the current wording..... because I CBA to completely rewrite ^_^&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I don't have any plywood available, what should I factors should I consider when selecting other wood to make my cleats from?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This embodies the belief that seems widespread that plywood is actually the most suitable material. It's not. I actually tackled this in my initial wording and this part I can adapt to here. Because of the orientation of the plies, and the known weakness of some plywood (weaker glue joints, filled knot holes, frequent voids etc.) one of the most common choices of material is arguably the least suitable; even with quality stuff the loading is inherently trying to split the plies. But I'm not actually arguing against its use because failures seem to virtually never happen despite this, which is a testament to the inherent stability of the concept. And a pointer to the heart of my Answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The material doesn't have to be that strong&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I really meant it when I said in my Comment that you can use just about anything. As I go on to say, most French cleats are hugely over-engineered for their actual loads; in fact any reasonable load that might be considered &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; without fastening exclusively into studs or a solid wall, but the holding power of drywall anchors/rawlplugs is a topic best left to the Home Improvement SE :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So really almost anything? Yes, including lesser hardwoods like poplar and most softwoods, &lt;em&gt;even cheap crappy stuff&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, and yes, &lt;em&gt;also MDF&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;what properties (other than straight &amp;amp; flat) should one look for in the scrap lumber pile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be perfectly honest I'm not sure that straight, and particularly flat, is important. This sounds wrong but let me explain:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;you will naturally take out most wind or cupping because of the way the strips are fastened to the wall and to the back of any cabinet or tool holder being hung up&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;with stock that's not straight, as you know the shorter the lengths you cut a bowed piece into the more you lessen the curvature. We take advantage of this all the time. So wood that's not straight could still be utilised for the (typically quite short) strips attached to the backs of things being hung up, with minimal loss of material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than the aesthetics this is perhaps the ideal opportunity to use up material that is not suitable for many others uses. Including stuff that has knots in unfortunate locations that you might worry about in other contexts — because any significant load tends to be spread over a wide area a weakness in one spot on the cleat fastened to the wall becomes essentially irrelevant. There is no load applied just to that weak spot, unless by chance or planning a particularly heavy and narrow item is hung at that exact location!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is a softwood, like SPF (framing lumber) considered strong enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's a good question because from what I've seen in discussions in woodworking circles the answer would generally be no. However, some of that is just bias against using construction wood for anything that 'matters' and while based on legitimate concerns about the quality of so much of this material worrying about it being too weak for this purpose seems groundless. In the UK and Ireland it is very common to see softwoods employed for cleats in kitchen installs and for shop cabinetry and tool storage, and the success of these&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; is a testament to softwood being perfectly adequate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dimensions aren't critical&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;In addition to the entire system not needing to be based on strips as wide as are commonly employed (3&amp;quot; and sometimes more is not uncommon if we look around online) &lt;em&gt;the cleats on the items being hung up don't have to match those on the wall&lt;/em&gt;. Not infrequently I've seen a sort of blind assumption that the two cleats have to be the same — perhaps stemming from the very common method of ripping a width of plywood down the centre on the tablesaw to create them — but in fact the &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; thing that really matters is that the bevelled edges match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And speaking of which...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bevel doesn't need to be 45°&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This is, by far, the most common angle chosen for the bevelled edge but some people feel there's a little too much scope for things to easily be lifted off by an accidental knock or by working their way up the slope for front-heavy items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That tendency for some kinds of projecting tool holders to tip forward and begin to ride up the bevel can be lessened or prevented entirely using even small brackets underneath if needed, or by something more elaborate if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether the risk is real or not for your application if that is a concern just go to 60° and you end up with a much more secure footing. Note that because the edge ends up so much thinner you might want to round over or flatten it rather than leave it sharp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Very high loads can be spread over more than one cleat&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;TBH I'm not sure if this is necessary, but if you need to do it for peace of mind why not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Elephant in the room:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;the chief potential sources of failure with French cleats are the fasteners or the wall/cabinet material, not the cleats themselves&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; This is not based on theory, it's based on seeing French cleats made from cheap crappy stuff that are having no difficulty whatsoever in surviving year after year in use with heavy cabinets hanging from them. This is both in a workshop environment and in kitchens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; See post by Les Mahon &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/questions-re-french-cleat-hanging-system.5435/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; on UK Workshop. The Benchmark site that he links to is actually one of the things I saw early on that gave me confidence in the strength of the system can be if implemented well, and this has been amply reinforced numerous times since then. This includes seeing cleats made from thinner &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; narrower stock (firsthand, as thin as 10mm / ~10/32&amp;quot; and only 30mm / ~1.2&amp;quot; wide, and I've read accounts of cleats 1/4&amp;quot; thick only 1&amp;quot; wide) that hold just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Let me be clear here, the apparent &lt;em&gt;complete lack of failures&lt;/em&gt; in practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-02-13T09:11:35.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11521" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11525" CreationDate="2021-02-14T19:52:30.253" Score="2" ViewCount="1226" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rutlands.com/sp+jointing-dowel-jointing-dowel-jigs-premium-self-centering-doweling-jig-rutlands+r6014&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;premium self centering dowel jig&lt;/a&gt; from Rutlands and I have been testing it on pieces of 18mm plywood, however it seems that it is not quite centered correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aPyIf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aPyIf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did contact Rutlands directly who quickly sent me a video from the manufacturer on how they centre the jig themselves. It looks like they unscrew the 2 bolts on the non-handled plate and screw/unscrew the piece that the 2 bolts hold down securely, allowing this plate to be moved forwards/backwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems however that after performing this 'fix', the middle plate when tightened on a piece, is not parallel... It feels like the plate with the adjustment bolts is loose and can rock about the main threaded screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bmlhg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bmlhg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oig4I.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oig4I.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody have experience with this type of jig and correcting it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8149" LastActivityDate="2021-02-15T22:52:54.053" Title="Self centering dowel jig not centered...How to align correctly?" Tags="|dowel|jig|drill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11522" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11532" CreationDate="2021-02-14T22:50:27.813" Score="0" ViewCount="731" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1186/will-a-beam-of-laminated-boards-be-stronger-when-the-members-are-vertical-or-hor&quot;&gt;Very similar to this question&lt;/a&gt; I want to create a balance beam to span the narrow part of a swimming pool which is 16'. I'm thinking of a length of 18' to allow 1' on either side. My initial thoughts around this beam are to laminate together 3 sets of 6-foot 2x4s in this pattern:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1WhmG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1WhmG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2x4&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some questions about this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a way to roughly-measure/estimate/guess how much weight this could  bear in the middle?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will this even work or is there a better way to do this?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's going to get plenty of water splashed on it when used. Any considerations with respect to that?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I'm able to find longer 2x4s that are straight enough would 9' lengths in the same pattern work better?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4559" LastActivityDate="2021-02-17T17:27:05.230" Title="Laminating a long beam for strength" Tags="|glue|laminating|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11523" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11524" CreationDate="2021-02-15T18:12:15.687" Score="0" ViewCount="1984" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recent found an &lt;em&gt;awesome&lt;/em&gt; stick while hiking with my family (in mid&#xA;January)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since then I have removed all the bark and sanded it to make it look even more &lt;em&gt;awesome(er)&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;I even wrapped the top in leather strips (which looks &lt;em&gt;great&lt;/em&gt;!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that today I decided that the stick was not &amp;quot;straight enough&amp;quot; and had too much bend...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I decided to try to clamp it straight on a flat board...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It decided to crack on a knot (which I am sure I can probably glue back together), I did &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; steam it at all (as I did not have the means)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long should I leave the wood clamped straight so that it wont bounce back right away (and finally fix my big crack of a mistake)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9299" LastEditorUserId="105" LastEditDate="2021-02-28T08:48:20.100" LastActivityDate="2021-03-02T13:06:43.153" Title="Straightening a green bent walking stick" Tags="|bending|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11523" CreationDate="2021-02-15T21:44:47.150" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long should I leave the wood clamped straight so that it wont bounce back right away (and finally fix my big crack of a mistake)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the wood is green, then you may be able to straighten it by clamping it to something straight and letting it dry in that configuration. How long it takes to dry will depend on the species, the diameter of the stick, the moisture content, and the ambient temperature and humidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the stick is already dry, then just clamping it and letting it sit is unlikely to straighten it; it'll just spring back to its former shape when you unclamp it. Dry wood tends to break instead of deforming when pushed beyond its &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yield_(engineering)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;elastic limit&lt;/a&gt;; if you want to permanently change its shape without breaking it you'll need to apply heat or moisture or both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2021-02-15T21:44:47.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11521" CreationDate="2021-02-15T22:52:54.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It feels like the plate with the adjustment bolts is loose and can rock about the main threaded screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't seen this particular one, but there are a lot of jigs produced in this style and I'm pretty sure they all work the same. The center hole in the middle plate contains a grub screw that compresses a spring which pushes a ball into a groove in the center shaft. The handle-side plate is threaded, so not adjustable, but the non-handle side has a threaded bushing that's screwed to the plate. The two smooth outside shafts just keep everything lined up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So... I'd remove the screws holding that bushing in place, and then turn the handle until the handle-side plate contacts the center plate. Then install the non-handle side plate and slide it so that it also contacts the center plate, and clamp it in place. Finally, install the threaded bushing, screwing it onto the center shaft until it's snug against the plate. Install and tighten the two screws to lock it in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the two sides should be parallel to each other and to the center plate, since they're both contacting the center plate, and if you turn the handle to open the jig they should both move the same distance away from the center plate. They may have a bit of play from side to side, but that should disappear when you tighten the jig on a piece of stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've done all that and the side plates and center plate aren't all parallel, I'd suspect a defective jig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2021-02-15T22:52:54.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10753" CreationDate="2021-02-16T00:01:28.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It was an oversight that the author neglected to explain fully in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/books/edition/Illustrated_Cabinetmaking/l1avDwAAQBAJ?hl=en&amp;amp;gbpv=1&amp;amp;dq=increase%20the%20shelf%27s%20resistance%20to%20toploading&amp;amp;pg=PT81&amp;amp;printsec=frontcover&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Illustrated Cabinetmaking&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The racking issue aside, it's important to know different types of wood expand and contract at different rates along the grain and thickness (less so at the endgrain). The biscuit will swell up with the glue but as it dries and contracts it will pull the surrounding wood in with it making the imperfection visible. This &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/0twPvi1M7bg?t=27&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;segment&lt;/a&gt; from a video explains this with boards side by side. It's reasonable to expect that is why it is done for outside corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Toploading is exactly that. Loading from the top (as in washing machine), putting a downward force upon something, etc. The offset shelf places more wood above the biscuit lessening the chance of tear out (splitting) and the shelf falling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9897" LastEditorDisplayName="user9897" LastEditDate="2021-03-04T15:57:10.940" LastActivityDate="2021-03-04T15:57:10.940" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11522" CreationDate="2021-02-16T01:56:37.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;EDIT:  I reran the sagulator and found an error in my input (first sentence in italics is in error).  The deflection is only 1/4&amp;quot;.  However, I believe the discussion of the dynamic nature of the loads and the behavior of the end points requiring a secure connection remain important considerations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I just ran this through the Sagulator assuming 200lb total load and got a deflection of nearly 2&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;.  Statically, the wood can carry the load, but the problem is that your load is dynamic.  Two or three kids could be jumping and shifting weight continuously.  Your wood composite beam will probably not crack under their activities (you would need to use a waterproof type of glue to prevent its weakening as it gets soaked).  The real problem is not vertical loads, but rather the fact that forces will come at many angles.  As the beam sags under the weight it will have a tendency to bow and twist. Enough force in the right direction will cause the beam to rotate around its long access. This will result in the beam bouncing and rotating from the direct line across the pool perpendicular to the edges to something else.  It is only a matter of time before it will shift one or both ends to the point it is not supported by the edge.  There is great risk of someone getting hurt.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;One solution to that is to properly secure the edges to the edge of the pool so that they cannot shift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also consider that someone falling near the edge may land on the pool edge rather than the water.  Cracked heads are no fun.  I would make certain that at least the edges of the pool are properly padded and that the kids are wearing helmets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2021-02-17T17:27:05.230" LastActivityDate="2021-02-17T17:27:05.230" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11523" CreationDate="2021-02-16T04:59:03.417" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Search &amp;quot;DIY wood bender steam&amp;quot; to get some ideas to build you own steamer. Have a clamping jig ready for when you pluck your stick from the device. After it is completely dry, use a steel type epoxy to repair the crack. Then finish with a low-VOC varnish and wrap a small coil of steel wire around the bottom near the tip to prevent splitting and damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5916" LastActivityDate="2021-02-16T04:59:03.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10753" CreationDate="2021-02-16T05:49:07.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that offsetting the biscuit in the first case just leaves a little extra meat between the biscuit and the end of the board. Imagine slicing 5/16” off the end of a board. The resulting piece would be incredibly weak because the grain runs through its thickness instead of along its length, right? You could snap it in two with hardly any effort. It’s the same situation for the top board in the vicinity of the biscuit when you cut a 1/8” biscuit slot into the face of a board 3/8” from the end. Moving that slot inward 1/8” allows just a bit more long-grain connection between the slot and the end, and makes the wood there a little bit stronger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Offsetting the biscuit toward the bottom of a shelf seems a little more intuitive: you want more of the shelf’s thickness above the biscuit to provide extra resistance to whatever load is on the shelf. If you offset the biscuit in the other direction, toward the top, then all the weight would be carried by just 1/8” or so of wood, and that doesn’t seem good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, it’s hard to know how much stock to put in these ideas if the author didn’t cite a source or otherwise back up the claims. It might be fun to test these ideas out and see whether they really make a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2021-02-16T15:27:17.863" LastActivityDate="2021-02-16T15:27:17.863" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11503" CreationDate="2021-02-16T15:06:06.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can hear my instructors now, &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;Drafting tables are for drafting, they are not dining room tables to be cluttered up with whatever you like!&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from the questionable practice of expecting weighty objects such as books, laptops, etc. to stay put on the described incline, any papers, velums and prints are still affixed with tape when being drafted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00D0297BS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Anti-slip spray&lt;/a&gt;. Currently unavailable online here. But I find listings for it at the big box stores. Whether you will use tape or not, silicone is what you are looking for, just take your time applying it in several thin coats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that its personal choice whether using a patch of scotch tape is handy for quick sketching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9897" LastEditorDisplayName="user9897" LastEditDate="2021-02-16T15:29:23.127" LastActivityDate="2021-02-16T15:29:23.127" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11531" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-16T15:44:36.860" Score="0" ViewCount="63" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been trying to make my own linseed oil paint by adding pigments to boiled linseed oil. I have added around 500 g of titanium oxide per litre of BLO and around 125 g of zinc oxide (to help speed the drying). The paint mixes well and seems to go on ok but even after leaving to dry for a week or so, the colour can be rubbed of with a cloth (as in you can see white come off on a dark coloured cloth).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to dilute the white I made with more oil and tried adding more zinc oxide (in two separate batches) but the problem still persists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any clues would be very welcome!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8220" LastActivityDate="2021-02-16T15:44:36.860" Title="Problems with linseed oil paint" Tags="|paint|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11522" CreationDate="2021-02-16T21:46:51.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just looked at my building code span tables for Glue-Laminated beams (I work at a Architectural/Structural Engineering Firm in  Ontario, Canada) and The best options for a 16' beam spanning 14' is 2 - 2x10s which can support 198lbs per linear foot or 3 - 2x10s which can support 298lbs. There is no number on 3 - 2x8s but 2 - 2x8s will only support 84lbs per linear foot at a 14' span.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These numbers represent a deflection of 1/360 of the length so over 14' that would be only 0.46&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I would not use 2x4s. If you don't care to much about deflection you could likely get away with 3 - 2x6s but expect a deflection of 1-2&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9887" LastActivityDate="2021-02-16T21:46:51.427" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11533" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11557" CreationDate="2021-02-17T02:11:46.963" Score="-1" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://duckduckgo.com/?q=medium%20duty%20clamp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a web search for &amp;quot;medium duty clamp.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is &amp;quot;medium duty&amp;quot; versus &amp;quot;heavy duty&amp;quot;?  Is there an official definition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9899" LastActivityDate="2021-02-22T18:15:44.323" Title="What is a &quot;medium duty&quot; wood clamp?" Tags="|clamps|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11534" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-17T04:41:20.117" Score="0" ViewCount="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made the wooden study table myself. The top is flat 1200 mm board and added wooden legs with the top flat board. The legs have been joined together at the bottom as well like a rectangular U shape. What can I do to make it not sway or move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9901" LastActivityDate="2021-02-17T04:41:20.117" Title="Swaying table when I write on it with even small pressure" Tags="|tabletop|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11535" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-13T21:11:58.810" Score="2" ViewCount="1038" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been trying to make my own linseed oil paint by adding pigments to boiled linseed oil.  I have added around 500 g of titanium oxide per litre of BLO and around 125 g of zinc oxide (to help speed the drying).  The paint mixes well and seems to go on ok but even after leaving to dry for a week or so, the colour can be rubbed of with a cloth (as in you can see white come off on a dark coloured cloth).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to dilute the white I made with more oil and tried adding more zinc oxide (in two separate batches) but the problem still persists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any clues would be very welcome!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8220" OwnerDisplayName="Tim Nixon" LastActivityDate="2023-01-12T00:07:47.607" Title="Problems with linseed oil paint" Tags="|paint|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11536" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11540" CreationDate="2021-02-17T12:50:21.473" Score="1" ViewCount="1036" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my first real woodworking project I'm making a desk for my day work. I've roughly cut - with tenon saw and mitre box - the legs to more than the required length, as it's hard to store 4m lengths in my house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I notice my rough cuts are a bit angled, which explains how I destroyed my mitre box. Now I want to make fine cuts so that the legs fit into the apron, how can I ensure my cuts are straight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9736" LastActivityDate="2021-02-17T17:21:42.927" Title="How to maintain a straight cutting angle with a tenon saw?" Tags="|joinery|technique|furniture|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11537" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-17T14:48:45.273" Score="0" ViewCount="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have sanded my wood flooring and  I want to put a protecting finish on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to keep it looking as natural as I can and not shiny.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help please&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9903" LastEditorUserId="2917" LastEditDate="2021-02-18T16:32:45.177" LastActivityDate="2021-02-18T16:32:45.177" Title="Finishing options for naturally looking wood flooring" Tags="|wood|surface-preparation|natural-wood|flooring|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11538" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11624" CreationDate="2021-02-17T15:31:14.800" Score="1" ViewCount="557" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm an absolute novice at this but furlough has made me want to try a new skill and woodworking seems like a handy thing to learn. Excuse any stupid mistakes!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I built the frame, put the seat panels on and then added the legs. I thought with the basic design, not much could go wrong but it wobbles from the bottom left to the top right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please can someone explain to me in layman's terms what has happened and how I can fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P.S.&lt;/strong&gt; I know it's not on a flat surface but I can physically see that it's not flat &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the bench in question:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xWKZp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xWKZp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Dh4U.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Dh4U.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9904" LastEditorUserId="2917" LastEditDate="2021-02-18T16:32:11.607" LastActivityDate="2021-03-14T03:10:16.517" Title="Wobbly bench issues" Tags="|wood-movement|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11538" CreationDate="2021-02-17T15:55:00.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you built this did you layout the bench frame on a flat surface?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears like the lumber you used for the top frame is twisted or bowed or both and if that is the case you will need to disassemble and rebuild ensuring the bench frame is square in and flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Barring that the only other possible way to fix this but it is not the best thing would be to add X-bracing between the legs but I think the bench is a little to out of square to be able to force it back how you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9887" LastEditorUserId="9887" LastEditDate="2021-02-17T19:45:05.277" LastActivityDate="2021-02-17T19:45:05.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11536" CreationDate="2021-02-17T17:16:30.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I want to make fine cuts so that the legs fit into the apron, how can I ensure my cuts are straight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a hand saw for fine work is a skill that takes some time to develop. But furniture makers did all kinds of crazy stuff by hand before power tools (or even power!) were available, so it can be done. I can't claim to be that good myself, but here's what I'd do if I were going that route:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;0&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use the right saw.&lt;/strong&gt; Tenon saws can be set up for ripping, i.e. cutting along the grain (which is what you do when you're cutting the sides of a tenon), or for crosscutting, cutting across the grain. If you're cutting a workpiece to length, you probably want a crosscut saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mark your cut lines.&lt;/strong&gt; Use a marking gauge, preferably one with a cutting wheel instead of a point, to mark a fine line where you want to make the cut. Figure out which side of the line is the &amp;quot;waste&amp;quot; side and draw an X there. Your goal is to make a cut that lands exactly on that line, but the saw kerf has some width, so you really want the side of the kerf to be on that line. The marks, by the way, should be on the top and front and back sides of your work, so that you can easily track both the side-to-side (&amp;quot;yaw&amp;quot;) and vertical (&amp;quot;roll&amp;quot;) angles of your cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use a guide.&lt;/strong&gt; Clamp something with a flat, vertical face to your workpiece so that the face lines up with your line. This gives you a handy reference surface that you can run the saw against. It'll help you stay on your line and train you to hold the saw vertically at all times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cut slowly.&lt;/strong&gt; It's easier to nip a problem in the bud, so go slowly and keep a close eye on your line. Stop every few strokes when you're starting out and look at how you're doing: Are you on the line? Are you keeping the saw in line with your guide?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pay attention to your form.&lt;/strong&gt; I'm no expert, so I won't try to give you too much advice here, but it's safe to say that you want the arm holding the saw to be moving in line with the cut, so your shoulder and elbow should both be lined up on the cut line. Even more important than that, though, is to be aware of what you're doing and how that's affecting the cut. If you find that you get better results some other way, do what works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use a shooting board.&lt;/strong&gt; For really clean results, consider cutting just to the side of your line and then cleaning up your cut with a plane and shooting board, or (if cutting tenons) a shoulder plane. If you haven't seen one, a shooting board is just a panel that has a fence to support your workpiece, and a surface that your hand plane rides on on to cut at a fixed angle to your workpiece. It's a basic piece of kit for anyone using hand tools. Check YouTube for videos about how to make and use one; it's not complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Practice, practice, practice.&lt;/strong&gt; Those folks who can make a clean cut on a line without a guide and without stopping didn't start out any better than you, they've just spent a lot more time working at it. The more you do it, the better you'll get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2021-02-17T17:21:42.927" LastActivityDate="2021-02-17T17:21:42.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11541" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-17T20:27:54.483" Score="0" ViewCount="162" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to build a cabinet with a face frame and inset doors. I want to have a 3mm even reveal on every side of the door. The hinges are also 3mm thick. How do I achieve an even reveal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9905" LastActivityDate="2021-02-17T20:27:54.483" Title="Even reveal with butt hinges and inset doors" Tags="|hinges|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11542" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11548" CreationDate="2021-02-17T21:27:52.557" Score="3" ViewCount="4075" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to purchase a set of brad point bits (all I own are split point). I see some that are High Speed Steel (HSS) and others made of Chrome Vanadium (Cr-V), and I'm not sure how much the steel should factor into my purchasing decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it's not just a matter of &amp;quot;cheap ones are HSS and expensive ones are Cr-V&amp;quot; (or vice-versa) - I see that a highly rated brand has individuals and sets in both materials and the prices are similar for similar sized bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did find &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.grainger.com/know-how/industry/metalworking/kh-which-drill-bit-does-the-job&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this handy description&lt;/a&gt; but it focuses on drilling in metals, not wood, and is, therefore, off topic here. I'm sure some of it translates to wood working, but I'm not sure exactly how. At this link, they state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High-Speed Steel (HSS) is a popular material good for drilling into soft steels as well as wood and plastic. It’s an economical solution for most maintenance drilling applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, they have nothing to say about Cr-V, so I don't know if Cr-V, while apparently a popular material for wood-boring bits, is considered a &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; or a &lt;em&gt;less&lt;/em&gt; economical choice, and whether it's better suited for wood drilling than HSS&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd imagine that one is better for some purposes, while the other is better for other purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the advantages of each material and when would one prefer one material over the other?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there enough difference to have sets of both (at some point down the line) and make a selection based on the type of hole/material one is making?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there enough differentiation between the two materials to really factor it into the decision making?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2021-02-18T12:07:24.463" LastActivityDate="2021-02-21T15:20:40.943" Title="What are the pros/cons of HSS vs Chrome Vanadium in drill bits?" Tags="|tool-selection|drill-bits|materials|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11543" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11544" CreationDate="2021-02-18T10:16:16.167" Score="1" ViewCount="1060" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm refurbishing my room and I have gotten to the point of building my new drawer unit/shelving units. My old ones hold themselves using wood f4 50mm screws, two on each joint. I'm debating if I should do the same or use small single L-bracket on each side, or using both for sturdiness? The drawer unit has the following dimensions:&#xA;Sides are 72cm high and 55 deep, there is a top portion which connects it which measures 46cm(width of the unit) and 55cm depth and also two small bottom supports which are 8cm x 46cm. There won't be a floor or backing. What would be the best way to secure it, L-brackets or wooden screws? Looking at easy of use and durability. Three drawers will be fitted and It'll be a standalone unit. I'm using laminated particleboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9908" LastEditorUserId="9908" LastEditDate="2021-02-18T10:44:08.653" LastActivityDate="2021-02-18T19:49:12.777" Title="Screws or L-brackets to build a drawer unit?" Tags="|wood|drawer-construction|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11543" CreationDate="2021-02-18T19:49:12.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Screws or L-brackets to build a drawer unit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either method can be used to build simple pieces and, if done well, can yield pieces strong enough for service; long-term durability isn't necessarily guaranteed though, because of the friable nature of particleboard/chipboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My old ones hold themselves using wood f4 50mm screws, two on each joint. I'm debating if I should do the same or use small single L-bracket on each side, or using both for sturdiness?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By all means use both if you want to help ensure a sturdy, long-lasting construction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As both methods rely on screws and since you're using particleboard it's worth mentioning that there are screws made specifically for this material. The common type sold these days tend to be both hard and tough, actually making them ideally suited to a range of applications in furniture making (for both solid wood as well as manmade boards, including MDF). See &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rUrFR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this image&lt;/a&gt; if necessary to see how countersink, clearance and pilot holes&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; work together to ensure a screw pulls the workpieces together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; be careful not to overtighten screws when driving them into particleboard, particular the edges. It's very easy to strip out the material, even with good-quality boards that are typically denser than the cheaper stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the choices on how to put this together go way beyond these two options, with dowels topping my list for ease of use in permanent assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;IF using dowels&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Unless you're using through-dowelling&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; good alignment of each pair of corresponding screw holes is extremely important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using dowel centres as you indicate you will be in the Comments is a great way to do this, in their absence ensuring good alignment starts with careful marking out (ideally transferring marks from one piece directly to the next).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next important step in either case is drilling straight and square, which can be done successfully freehand but there are numerous types of simple jig that can help in drilling square to the surface. Of course to get reliable square drilling and guaranteed spacing many rely on a dowelling jig of some kind. Homemade ones can be built purely from wood, with no metal components, although needless to say you get a longer lifespan from one if you incorporate metal bushings of some kind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some further tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure each cut dowel is shorter than the combined depth of the two holes it will go into (to allow space for glue pockets at one or both ends).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chamfering the edges of dowels helps a lot in inserting them initially, as well as in bringing the joint together once they are in place in the first component.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your dowel holes end up a particularly tight fit to your dowels (which is a good thing if working with most woodworking adhesives) this previous Q&amp;amp;A will prove useful, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3841/how-can-i-flute-my-own-dowel-or-create-dowel-with-similar-properties/&quot;&gt;How can I flute my own dowel or create dowel with similar properties&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If on the other hand your dowel holes end up a little oversize (easily done, even using a bit that perfectly matches your dowel diameter) such that the dowels slip in a little too easily, or worse actually have space to jiggle side to side&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;, it would be best to glue them in using epoxy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More valuable info in the following links:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/joinery/dowel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dead-on dowel joints&lt;/a&gt; on Wood Magazine.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/how-to-use-a-dowel-jig-the-ultimate-guide/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Use a Dowel Jig: The Ultimate Guide&lt;/a&gt; on Family Handyman.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Although pilot holes are frequently not absolutely necessary when fastening into the edges of particleboard.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Which although a good method is generally not well suited to working with particleboard, although there are some workarounds.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;em&gt;Even if only very slightly.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-02-18T19:49:12.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1338" CreationDate="2021-02-19T02:23:40.213" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know I'm really late to the party on this guys, but since I only heard half of the answer, I want to toss in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is dangerous for two reasons: first, as stated, torque. It DOES take significantly more energy to move that many large blades. Especially when they're tearing through a substance as chewy as wood. The other one, as briefly touched upon by the OP, is chip clearance. The more volume of wood being cut, then more waste material/sawdust there is that needs removing, QED. That's why he have chip-breakers in dado stacks: they also serve to even out the cut, sure, but even more critically, they provide a place for all the excess sawdust to GO, and a spinning &amp;quot;arm&amp;quot; to help ensure it DOES.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same reason rip blades have deep gullets and fewer teeth: fast, hack and slash removal, deep, wide disposal. Try ripping a 2x4 with a plywood blade. It's doable. Just REAAAAAAALY slowly. Go faster? And you just hit on the concern I'd have, after the torque considerations, of course: the blade(s) binding. Nowhere for the material to go. All those middle blades take a bite, and can't shed the waste from any direction but straight OUT vertically (vs vertically and sideways). And with that many teeth taking a deep bite simultaneously, any hiccup is begging for kickback. Like, the &amp;quot;orbital escape velocity&amp;quot; flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, don't take this as me preaching doom and gloom. I'm just talking theory (if you wanna call the engineering design considerations &amp;quot;theory&amp;quot;) here. Species, moisture content, grain, ambient humidity, lunar cycle, mother's maiden name,  along with the ever-critical &amp;quot;is my lumber just going to be a dick about this?&amp;quot; no doubt all play a role. If you're making 1/2&amp;quot; box or finger joint cuts through the face of panel material on a sled? Knock yourself out! As many as the arbor will hold! Maybe 1/4 of the teeth will engage before you're done anyway. But &amp;quot;ripping a 1-1/2-inch dado lengthways in a 16-foot FPS* 2x4&amp;quot;? If you're really lucky you'll only knock yourself out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it were me, I'd limit myself to TWO stacked blades (that aren't designed for the purpose), so each has at least one lateral plane available to it for ejecta, unless it's something trivial like a bunch of finger joints. Just stagger the teeth so the blade isn't bent when you crank home your arbor nut. Which, by the by, isn't so the blades &amp;quot;won't spin into each other&amp;quot;. If your arbor nut is that loose you have other, much bigger concerns. It's so the tooth profiles don't press on one another, which would bend your blades, make it possible for said nut to loosen and give you a good chance of ballistic carbide, to boot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*&amp;quot;Fir/Pine/Spruce&amp;quot; (softwoods), not &amp;quot;first person shooter&amp;quot;, JIC. And personally, I think because FPS IS soft and gummy/pithy, it'd be MORE dangerous than something with more attitude, lie bubinga, ipe, or rock maple. At least those would yield fine dust, not fibrous chunks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9911" LastActivityDate="2021-02-19T02:23:40.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11459" CreationDate="2021-02-19T05:28:46.500" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way I have done these if the flats are 3&amp;quot; or less is with the table saw. The challenge is always the crease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forget for a moment about the beveled part and think about how you'd do this if there were just a 90° step. That's really nothing but a wide rabbet. One way to cut that is to use the table saw to make one cut from the edge and a second one from the wide face. The key to getting a nice sharp inside corner for your rabbet is to nail the blade height and fence settings for that second cut. Use the same two reference faces, i.e. the one against the table and the one against the fence, for both cuts to minimize error. A reliable set of &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B074HZ8S21&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;calipers&lt;/a&gt; will be a huge help -- it doesn't matter if they're digital or vernier, and you don't even need to read the measurement. Just measure the depth of the first cut and use the depth blade on the calipers to set the rip fence's distance, and then measure the distance from the cut and again use the depth blade to set the blade height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cutting the bevel is the same thing, done the same way, except that you need to tilt the blade. This time, for the second cut, you'll need to be careful to measure exactly to the highest corner of the highest tooth on your blade. The corner of that tooth is going to land in the corner of the bevel, so it's critical to get both the height and the fence setting right for a clean corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take the time to set up featherboards (or your whatever your favorite sort of stock guide is) for both cuts to ensure that the workpiece stays tight against the fence and the table for both cuts. If you're working with long pieces, infeed and outfeed supports will also help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've made both cuts, you may still need to clean up the surfaces to remove saw marks. Your waste piece will have a matching angle, so you can wrap a piece of that waste with sandpaper to create a sanding block that'll get into that corner. (A spray adhesive like &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B01LZQVQM8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3M 77&lt;/a&gt; is a great way to attach the paper when making impromptu sanding blocks.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2021-02-19T05:28:46.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11547" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-19T08:05:35.003" Score="0" ViewCount="258" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes for work I need to leave leather furniture in an unheated unit for 2-3 days. Temperature at night is around 5c degrees (3-10 range) with moderate humidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read somewhere that leaving leather in the cold damages and dries it out although it talked about more below freezing temperature. Since some of the furniture I handle is expensive I am concerned how much I should be worried about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this temperature will there be any damage? We are talking over weeks right aka 2-3 days won't be a problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9309" LastActivityDate="2023-11-22T18:49:00.440" Title="Leather furniture storage - is unheated ok for short term?" Tags="|furniture|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11542" CreationDate="2021-02-19T12:41:49.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;AS already mentioned above, HSS should be a better material for making drill bits out of because it should be harder.  I have owned bits with HSS stamped on them that were definitely not great bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For brad point bits, the design and quality of production process are more important than the material when it comes to the quality of the hole.  The quality of the material (given the same design) would contribute to the lifespan between sharpenings.  Lifespan can also be dictated by the material you drill and the number of holes you drill(obviously).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you will be drilling a few holes in soft/hard woods then don't worry too much about the bit material.  If someone has shown you that they drill nice clean holes then go for it.  If you are planning to drill thousands of holes in wood, MDF or plastics (plastics tend to generate more heat when drilling) then go for HSS (or if you're planning on living for a long time without buying more drill bits).  You certainly don't need two sets of the same drill sizes in different steels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have that same set of Fisch bits linked above but in HSS and they are brilliant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8220" LastActivityDate="2021-02-19T12:41:49.900" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11550" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-20T16:26:44.173" Score="0" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've built a rustic bookcase with wormy maple. I am trying to get a 2-tone look. I've tested a turkey red dye stain (1 tablespoon powered:1 cup water: 1 cup alcohol) the wormy parts are brighter and background (normal grain) is duller. I kind of like it but overwhelming color for piece. Painted a piece with a 1 over coat of a copper craft paint, then sanded. Ok for a final color, but lost/dulled best of red part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I add a coat of sealer (poly, shellac, etc.) to protect 1st dye coat? I'm intimidated by epoxy on such a large piece (36x24x26 has 2 sides like a room divider base cabinet, the &amp;quot;back&amp;quot; will be in the middle)&#xA;I'm thinking a copper/verdege look might give it a funky look.&#xA;How do I calculate how much I need? The wood is super dry (kept inside for yrs) &amp;amp; is REALLY thirsty &amp;amp; wormy parts absorb less o.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9918" LastActivityDate="2021-02-20T16:26:44.173" Title="Using reactive fabric dye to stain wormy maple bookcase. Tight grain wood prep? With oil gel stain?" Tags="|finishing|staining|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11542" CreationDate="2021-02-20T21:55:37.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are comparing &amp;quot;apples to oranges&amp;quot;. They are dramatically different ; HSS will cut steel while red hot ( in a dark room , 1100 F), and contains roughly 20 % alloys. Cr , V is a low alloy tool steel ( like grade L-2) and contains less than 3 % alloys . The V carbides will hold an edge longer than other low alloy tool steels , but not to a degree that a craftsman could notice. An indirect comparison is that HSS is hardened by oil quenching from about 2200 F and tempered at about 1100 F. Cr, V is hardened by quenching from 1600 F into oil and tempering at about 350 F ; I understand this info is no value to the user but it indicates these are significantly different alloys. If you are drilling wood , the Cr, V are fine . I you want to drill more than a couple holes in steel ,pay for the HSS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3966" LastEditorUserId="3966" LastEditDate="2021-02-21T15:20:40.943" LastActivityDate="2021-02-21T15:20:40.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4560" CreationDate="2021-02-21T01:01:35.227" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fact that you want the desk to be resistant to a glass (and I suppose therefore some liquid from spills or condensation) makes me think that any kind of oil isn't the best option in terms of durability. Oils don't fully seal the surface of the wood, and therefore there is some chance that water will leave a mark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, since this is a complex piece with multiple surfaces, I'd suggest that spraying the finish might be the easiest way. You'd have to get a spray gun and find a safe way of using it (probably outside), but it makes it extremely easy to get an even covering even where the furniture has a complex shape. Potentially can apply the finish to the piece in its assembled form (or at least partially assembled), while easily reaching any corners or crevices. If you shop around there are some cheap spray guns which work decently, and there is also the option of hiring/borrowing one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can check out my reflections (as a relative novice) on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.danielplayfaircal.com/blogging/2021/02/20/new-desk-part-4-finishing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;applying a sprayed lacquer finish to a desk I made recently&lt;/a&gt;. I had similar requirements to what you have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;good durability, and water resistance on the desk portion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;preservation of the natural wood colour&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;speed of application&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YvtvU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YvtvU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;In progress application&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went with acid catalysed lacquer (AKA conversion varnish). The product I used preserved the natural wood colour very well, seals the wood completely, is very durable, and dries to the touch in only about 15 minutes (although longer is required between coats and before use).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A potentially easier option is the older nitrocellulose lacquer, often used to finish electric guitars. Disadvantages are that it's less durable (although still waterproof), and results in a significant yellowing of the natural wood color (which increases over time). However it's cheaper, and is available in aerosol cans which means you can spray it without a spray gun. Sanding is also not required between coats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9921" LastEditorUserId="9921" LastEditDate="2021-02-23T00:46:57.473" LastActivityDate="2021-02-23T00:46:57.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7462" CreationDate="2021-02-21T01:21:58.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I faced a similar conundrum recently - I wanted a clear epoxy finish to preserve the natural appearance of the wood. In the process of making my piece I made various mistakes with the epoxy, including using a non UV resistant one, and allowing some bubbles to set in the piece (which is very difficult to avoid entirely).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AUnud.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AUnud.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.danielplayfaircal.com/blogging/2021/02/20/new-desk-part-3-gap-filling-and-sanding.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;check out my project&lt;/a&gt; (which I did as a novice) if you like. After doing it it makes more sense to me why people use a tint so often:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;UV induced yellowing is not visible&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bubbles are not visible&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;transparent epoxy looks pretty dark anyway unless there is light shining through it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9921" LastEditorUserId="9921" LastEditDate="2021-02-23T00:26:03.810" LastActivityDate="2021-02-23T00:26:03.810" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6689" CreationDate="2021-02-21T01:38:37.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm by no means an expert but did a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.danielplayfaircal.com/blogging/2021/02/20/new-desk-part-3-gap-filling-and-sanding.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;very similar project&lt;/a&gt; recently, so here's my thoughts/suggestions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will filling cracks with resin visually add or detract?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KStOc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KStOc.png&quot; alt=&quot;unfilled cracks showing through film finish&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously a matter of taste, but the appearance of cracks is heavily affected by the finish you choose. I found that unfilled cracks can be made more obvious when applying a finish that sits above the wood surface. I personally regret not filling all the smaller cracks on the flat surface of my piece, particularly those that were exposed after sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How does one fill the live-edge side of the slab with resin while avoiding bleeding of the resin into the wood surrounding the cracks? The bleeding normally of course needs heavy sanding to remove, but I'm afraid of this heavy sanding due to concerns of destroying the feel/look of the live edge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U8OPQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U8OPQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;what happens when you pour too much epoxy on the edge&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is one area in which I think I could have done better on my project - I attempted to fill every last crack with epoxy, and the result was that brushing/sanding it all ended up removing some of the shape of the natural edge that I wanted to preserve. In hindsight, I would trade a few small unfilled cracks in the natural edge for better preservation of the natural shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wd4DV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wd4DV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;jig for pouring epoxy into a live edge&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to avoid running which I found effective is to hold the slab at an appropriate angle such that the edge is level. I built a jig for this purpose which worked reasonably well. A further improvement might be to make it adjustable, and vary the angle for different sections of the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9921" LastEditorUserId="9921" LastEditDate="2021-02-23T00:52:29.167" LastActivityDate="2021-02-23T00:52:29.167" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4380" CreationDate="2021-02-21T01:50:00.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seconding the suggestion to use epoxy. That crack is an interesting one though because it goes through the nonflat surface of the live edge, so its a bit challenging to make a mould to stop the epoxy from leaking out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wd4DV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wd4DV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Epoxy pouring jig&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion would be to build a mould that holds the slab on its side (with the live edge on the top), and pour the epoxy in from the live edge. I did a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.danielplayfaircal.com/blogging/2021/02/20/new-desk-part-3-gap-filling-and-sanding.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;live edge slab project recently&lt;/a&gt; and built a somewhat similar jig for that purpose. In your case since the gaps are bigger I think it would be worth using a proper melamine mould (with vices holding it into the slab) to seal the crack on the flat faces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9921" LastEditorUserId="9921" LastEditDate="2021-02-23T00:40:50.893" LastActivityDate="2021-02-23T00:40:50.893" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4483" CreationDate="2021-02-21T01:59:17.080" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not an expert, but I &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.danielplayfaircal.com/blogging/2021/02/20/new-desk-part-4-finishing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;made a desk recently&lt;/a&gt; and decided to finish it by spraying acid catalysed lacquer (AKA conversion varnish). It was a bit of effort to find a spray gun and learn how to use it, as well as finding a source for the finishing products, but the result was really good. benefits of acid catalysed lacquer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spray application avoids brush marks and dries very quickly to the touch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;durable finish - waterproof, resistant to most household chemicals, doesn't scratch easily, and doesn't get dusty&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the particular product was clear and non yellowing, so it preserved the natural light colour of the wood I was using&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6nPPd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6nPPd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Before finishing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TyRxB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TyRxB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;After finishing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9921" LastEditorUserId="9921" LastEditDate="2021-02-23T00:39:20.737" LastActivityDate="2021-02-23T00:39:20.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11533" CreationDate="2021-02-22T17:09:17.443" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is &amp;quot;medium duty&amp;quot; versus &amp;quot;heavy duty&amp;quot;? Is there an official definition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no specific definition of &amp;quot;medium duty&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;heavy duty&amp;quot; as those terms pertain to woodworking tools, and the same is probably true in most other contexts. The terms are essentially marketing terms that manufacturers use to suggest the intended use of a product or to differentiate similar products within their own product line. Moreover, the meanings may vary significantly depending on the specific products or the context in which they're described.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's generally understood that &amp;quot;medium duty&amp;quot; suggests more toughness and durability than &amp;quot;light duty,&amp;quot; but less than &amp;quot;heavy duty,&amp;quot; even if none of those terms are precisely defined. Think of these meanings in terms of condiments: when you order a sandwich at a delicatessen and the person behind the counter asks if you want mayonnaise, you might say &amp;quot;heavy mayo, please&amp;quot; or perhaps &amp;quot;medium mayo&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;light mayo,&amp;quot; and even though they're not measuring the mayo and if asked you probably couldn't even say just how many grams of mayonnaise are indicated by &amp;quot;medium mayo,&amp;quot; everybody still has a pretty good idea of what you mean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no authority or governing body that controls, defines, designates, or authorizes the use of those terms for clamps or other tools. Consider them as advisory if they help, or ignore them entirely and evaluate the products in question yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2021-02-22T18:15:44.323" LastActivityDate="2021-02-22T18:15:44.323" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11558" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-22T21:37:43.987" Score="3" ViewCount="1622" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a table and two benches for my daughter but because the benches are so skinny and I made the legs going straight down, it tips over pretty easily....&#xA;how can I stabilize this without completely ruining the aesthetic of the bench?&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jj5Og.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jj5Og.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for all your great suggestions!  I think I’m just going to connect the benches and table to make it a more stationary picnic table/bench!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9784" LastEditorUserId="9784" LastEditDate="2021-02-25T22:07:08.310" LastActivityDate="2021-02-25T22:07:08.310" Title="Unstable wood bench" Tags="|wood|technique|furniture|design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11558" CreationDate="2021-02-22T22:28:31.347" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;how can I stabilize this without completely ruining the aesthetic of the bench?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that you don't want to fasten it to the floor or install powerful magnets or a massive flywheel, you need to widen the bench's footprint. Often, the legs are splayed outward to accomplish that, but since your bench is already done you might prefer to add a piece under the legs at each end, as in this bench:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/55Qsw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/55Qsw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bench from thebenchfactory.com&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could use the same kind of wood that you used in the bench so that the feet are clearly part of the bench, or you could paint the feet to match the floor, or use a dark or neutral color so that the bench looks separate from the feet. Also, you could use steel plates instead of wood to minimize the change in height and add some weight at the bottom. Experiment with plywood or MDF first to determine how wide the feet need to be in order to achieve the level of stability you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2021-02-22T22:28:31.347" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11560" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11564" CreationDate="2021-02-23T05:49:10.707" Score="2" ViewCount="611" Body="&lt;p&gt;To practice my dovetails, I decided to make some drawers for my kitchen cabinets. I'm using Blum undermount slides, which requires the drawer to conform to specific specifications, as well as a few modifications to the basic drawer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After carefully cutting my dovetails, I started to make the modifications required by the slides. One of these is to cut notches on the back of the drawer below the drawer bottom to allow the rails to run along the bottom of the drawer (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://downloads.cabinetparts.com/auto/blumtandemplusblumotionnew.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://downloads.cabinetparts.com/auto/blumtandemplusblumotionnew.pdf&lt;/a&gt;, page 11). I've drawn the back of my drawer below: pins on the sides, dado slot for the drawer bottom in gray, and the cutouts required for the slides in red. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cYHA9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cYHA9.png&quot; alt=&quot;drawer back&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No doubt an experienced woodworker can immediately spot the flaw: the notches result in the loss of the bottom pin on both sides! It was pretty sad to cut off the pins I spent so much time on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is this: I'd like to keep using this style of slides on the rest of my drawers. Are those slides just incompatible with dovetails, or is there some trick so that I don't end up with a missing pins?&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sW4u7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sW4u7.png&quot; alt=&quot;sad drawer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some additional context: I invested a lot of time and money building jigs for cutting dovetails, so I'd really like to continue doing dovetails if possible. I'd switch rail styles before giving up on the dovetails, but ideally I could keep the rails and the dovetails with a little help :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9936" LastEditorUserId="9936" LastEditDate="2021-02-23T05:54:46.967" LastActivityDate="2021-04-12T22:15:49.320" Title="Dovetails with undermount drawer slides" Tags="|joinery|dovetail|drawer-construction|drawer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11560" CreationDate="2021-02-23T15:39:14.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to keep using this style of slides on the rest of my drawers. Are those slides just incompatible with dovetails, or is there some trick so that I don't end up with a missing pins?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can think of a few solutions, but if you want to keep using dovetails for that rear joint, the simplest solution is surely to just change the spacing of the pins and tails so that the bottom pin is taller than the notch for the slide. Your dovetails don't have to be laid out symmetrically: the back of the drawer doesn't experience a lot of force, and people aren't likely to see the rear joints, so having a taller pin at the bottom rear corners won't hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2021-02-23T15:39:14.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11560" CreationDate="2021-02-23T17:54:24.457" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You haven't significantly compromised strength by removing the last pin and the back of a drawer actually doesn't need to be that strong&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; so I don't think it's a big concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But obviously it is best not to lose a part of a joint (even if only so the effort to make it isn't wasted!) so I'll list some options for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sticking with the Blums&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;For future drawers you can simply change the style/spacing of the dovetails and you're golden — no shallow pins there, zero loss of strength once the notches are removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you just can't stand to do uneven pins (they do look odd) you can always use Blum's own recommendation for the no-notch version of mounting, which is included in the PDF you linked to in the Question on page 11:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AOCKE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AOCKE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Blum undermount drawers, no-notch option&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An even simpler option is &lt;em&gt;don't dovetail the back&lt;/em&gt; — nobody ever sees them and nobody really cares but the woodworker LOL And they certainly aren't needed for strength on a drawer back — drawers typically see almost no forces exerted rearwards trying to push the back off. As a result even the simplest option of all, butt joints, are more than adequate for the back of virtually any drawer if glued and pinned or reinforced with skinny dowels&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a butt joint is unacceptable for some reason, you could use a housing joint (dado joint) instead, although you inherently lose a small amount of drawer volume this way since the back has to be brought forward slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Select different slides&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;There are different makes of undermount drawer slides and not all require the same positioning. So another option if you must dovetail all four corners and you'd prefer to continue to do them exactly as done already is to simply pick a different style of slide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Traditionally both fronts and backs of drawer boxes were dovetailed because they were overbuilding for strength, as well as creating a joint that held together mechanically because they knew from experience that their glues sometimes failed. We don't really have that concern any more, unless you're using a protein glue of course!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Bamboo skewers are great for this. Short lengths of bamboo dowel are extraordinarily strong and make a great alternative to pins if one wants to avoid metal fasteners for any reason (e.g. so the sides of the drawer remain safe to plane).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-02-25T08:22:43.557" LastActivityDate="2021-02-25T08:22:43.557" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11565" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-23T22:00:51.403" Score="0" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hey guys so I started my first real big woodworking project in a while, may have underestimated the intensity and precision of it just a bit so I'm debating on how best to save it. My first glueup of an endgrain cutting board had a little warp in it and me being as inexperienced as I am I figured ah heck just plane it even. Now though I'm realizing I'm losing quite a bit of the board and the final dimensions look sadder and sadder every day. My question is if i saw it into strips and then glue it together maybe pack the void with saw dust would that work, or is my only option to plane it until even with the low point?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mUuuc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mUuuc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;my board as it stands now&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9941" LastActivityDate="2021-02-23T22:00:51.403" Title="Warp in glueup of endgrain cutting board?" Tags="|hand-planing|end-grain|cutting-board|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11566" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-24T19:47:52.700" Score="2" ViewCount="1141" Body="&lt;p&gt;A confession: I made newbie mistakes, despite following can directions to the nth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the culprit is actually the wood stock itself: unstained black walnut that's got a grooved milled surface**  Therefore, to get the oil in all of the little grooves I had to really rag and push when I applied. And when I ragged off, necessarily there's a bit more Danish Oil build-up in the grooves (hard to press in to get totally even pressure into all grooves for consistent excess pick-up).The surface (after 2 coats yesterday) is shiny and a little gummy (neither attribute is desirable for me). I'm 100% sure there's too much Danish Oil on the surface!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question for you folks: to step back the shine and gumminess, should I&#xA;1: follow the frequent suggestion to wipe down with thinner or meth or (worst case) acetone wipe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2: Others say apply another coat of Danish oil and rag off hard again. (Intuitively, with the grooved wood, I fear this approach)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3: Others suggest using an alternative oil (like olive oil) with a hearty wipe-off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4: Some say, hold firm, let it dry over time...slowly...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opinions? I've read many posts, but am a little nervous about making things worse. Before I dive in wanted to double check this, get some reassurance. Many thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(** My 1950 house is covered in this stuff, used to be branded &amp;quot;Weldtex&amp;quot; and I have a specialty supplier (Vintage Plywood) who's making it again, so I can add and replace old stuff. It takes paint beautifully...crisp grooves. Danish Oil...trickier.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9945" LastActivityDate="2022-11-10T07:08:26.020" Title="Watco Danish Oil on unstained walnut &gt; how to address tacky surface?" Tags="|finishing|oiling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11566" CreationDate="2021-02-24T22:04:10.657" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, to get the oil in all of the little grooves I had to really rag and push when I applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time don't be afraid to use a brush for application. The bristles of a brush are far, far better than a wad of cloth at getting finish (even a thin one like &amp;quot;Danish oil&amp;quot;) into corners, around details and in fine grooves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm 100% sure there's too much Danish Oil on the surface!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to be patient and dedicated when removing the excess of blended finishes like &amp;quot;Danish oil&amp;quot;. It's not much different to when using straight oil, &lt;em&gt;no matter how long it takes&lt;/em&gt; the surface shouldn't be wet when you're done&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;should I 1: follow the frequent suggestion to wipe down with thinner or meth or (worst case) acetone wipe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this is the best course of action, and you want to do it ASAP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The longer you wait the more insoluble the gummy finish is in thinners/mineral spirits, because the varnish component is oxidising and changing to its cured form (not soluble in mineral spirits). &lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; in case you were thinking of using odorless mineral spirits the regular stuff has a noticeably stronger solvent action so although there's lots more smell it is to be preferred here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acetone can be required if the curing process has progressed far enough that the finish is only weakly dissolved by MS. If you do have to resort to using it for some or all of this, ensure good ventilation (air moving past you and out of the room is the ideal) or use a respirator with the appropriate cartridges fitted, and wear solvent-resistant gloves&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meths? Completely the wrong solvent for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some how-to and tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You'll want to use plenty of paint thinner/mineral spirits and plenty of clean rags or paper towels doing this. If you try to skimp on solvent you won't dissolve enough of the finish residue. If you don't use enough changes of rags/paper towels what you end up doing is mostly spreading the finish around, rather than actually taking off what has been dissolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't be afraid to use a firm-bristled paintbrush or even an old toothbrush (spotlessly clean, or just a new one LOL) if necessary to help get excess oil out of the grooves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The rags or paper towels used present the same fire hazard as the application rags do, which I presume the on-can instructions were very specific about. Arguably the easiest way to deal with them is to dry them flat on the floor somewhere, or on the ground outside if this is practical for you. After they've gone stiff they can be safely discarded in the trash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2: Others say apply another coat of Danish oil and rag off hard again. (Intuitively, with the grooved wood, I fear this approach)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can work (you'll see why down below where I strongly criticise &amp;quot;Danish oil&amp;quot; LOL) but really it's a sort of half measure. What you want to do is address the problem in the most direct manner, and that's to use solvent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3: Others suggest using an alternative oil (like olive oil) with a hearty wipe-off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please do me a favour and never listen to anything else said by whatever source this was ^_^ You never want to apply olive oil to wood you're trying to finish like this as a host of problems can ensue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4: Some say, hold firm, let it dry over time...slowly...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; work. Heavy emphasis on might here. &amp;quot;Danish oil&amp;quot; is not one completely uniform product across all brands, and even with a single brand batch variation does occur, and they can even be reformulated (there's an infamous case of this from recent decades, involving the Watco one specifically IIRC!) so this advice is sort of sketchy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it could dry enough that it stops being sticky and isn't soft enough to be a problem. But typically Danish oils are not hard enough to be applied thickly and left, they will remain permanently soft, even gummy, and the residue can be a dust magnet. There's no way to be sure beforehand which way this will go, and if you wait and it doesn't work you're left with an even more difficult problem to deal with.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Recommendation for the future, ditch the &amp;quot;Danish oil&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I'll skip the boring historical perspective I originally wrote and just cut to the chase. Wiping varnish is a very viable alternative here, with some key advantages for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Purely as a finish in its own right varnish is superior, it makes the colour and figure in wood look &lt;em&gt;virtually identical&lt;/em&gt; in most cases, and here's the kicker: &lt;em&gt;it is &lt;strong&gt;easier&lt;/strong&gt; to apply&lt;/em&gt;. You can use exactly the same basic method, but if you accidentally leave any excess in groves or a corner here or there it will reliably dry hard. As if that's not enough, you get way more product when you buy varnish&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See more on wiping varnish in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5891/how-to-fix-very-light-scratches-in-polyurethane-finish/5893#5893&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Good oiling guidelines stress that the surface should basically feel dry after the wiping off/buffing stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Acetone isn't that toxic on the skin but it will dry it out terribly if used in quantity over a longish time. Ever had to wash your hands in soap and water many times in succession and forgotten to moisturise? Like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Most commercial oil/varnish blends are heavily thinned in the factory (50% and sometimes quite a bit more is solvent!) so there's actually not much actual finish in the can o_O&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-02-24T22:04:10.657" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11558" CreationDate="2021-02-25T17:33:32.497" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's up to you to determine the aesthetic, however, if your daughter is tipping over regularly, you might consider redoing the legs completely to give them a splay outward to prevent her from hurting herself. I would think that would override aesthetic considerations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to angle each leg so the outer edge was directly in line with the top of the bench above it, &lt;em&gt;I&lt;/em&gt; think it would still look good, and that should add a reasonable amount of stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With some careful disassembly, you could even salvage these legs to use in another project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2021-02-25T17:33:32.497" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11571" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-26T04:06:09.140" Score="0" ViewCount="1859" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some 1x2 project boards for making a frame. The frame will hold a painted sign on Masonite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am uncertain the best method for joining the miter cuts and was hoping for suggestions. Wood glue only? Some sort of joiner like biscuits? The 1x2 board are rabbeted with router and =mitered with table saw. It seems to fit alright but there are a few small gaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pictures are below. And some links I read through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus question: I noticed the 1x2 board can lie flat or tall. Is there a name for these two angles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reference&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bobvila.com/articles/types-of-wood-joints/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;7 Best Types of Wood Joints to Know - Bob Vila&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/perfect-miters-every-time/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Perfect Miters Every Time&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-how-to/joinery/miters/making-the-perfect-frame&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Making the Perfect Frame | WOOD Magazine&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pictures&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qxkYY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qxkYY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2rqb6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2rqb6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5cHvh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5cHvh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FzfwF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FzfwF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8007" LastActivityDate="2021-09-01T22:07:05.660" Title="How to join miter cuts for picture/sign frame?" Tags="|joinery|miter-joint|framing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2021-09-03T16:46:32.223" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11572" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11574" CreationDate="2021-02-26T06:28:53.733" Score="0" ViewCount="215" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a 7' long hanging bench with no support under the middle. I have 9' by ~6&amp;quot; rough sawn 4/4 white oak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My initial design idea involved making a lamination / beam consisting of 3 boards ripped to 4&amp;quot; and cut to 7', making the beam dimensions 7' by 4&amp;quot; by roughly 2.625&amp;quot; thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, despite the fact that I currently have 9' boards, I decided to go down this rabbit hole of looking into whether it would be feasible to cut the boards to a shorter length (e.g., 3.5' each, half of the needed stretcher beam length), then glue them up / join them to make the 7' stretcher from them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may seem ridiculously arbitrary, but I have 2 practical reasons for exploring this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shorter boards are more available (incl scrap between projects)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shorter boards are much easier to S4S&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started looking into scarf joints in timber frames, and I also had the idea to glue the 7/8&amp;quot; thick boards all up in an overlapping fashion, so the beam would not contain any through-joints, only overlapping boards of varying length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I barking up the wrong tree or is this something commonly done? Is there a way of achieving the same dimensions without losing double digit percentage of strength / load bearing capacity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt;: I plan to use only wood and glue, no metal (e.g., brackets, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9955" LastEditorUserId="9955" LastEditDate="2021-02-26T07:18:57.893" LastActivityDate="2021-02-26T16:41:37.910" Title="Joining 3.5' boards to make a 7' beam, or no?" Tags="|wood|technique|furniture|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11571" CreationDate="2021-02-26T10:37:12.797" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't have access to a proper framing underpinner (friend's or neighbour's), then you could either ask a local picture framer to join them for you or if you do want to do it yourself, a pocket-hole jig might be suitable as this will join the corners from the inside where it won't show.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always back up the join with a good wood glue too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do go down the route of finding someone locally who make picture frames, their guillotine will also get rid of those gaps in the join.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit : details of how an underpinner works:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An underpinner is a framing tool that pushes small (maybe 5mm to a side, and ranging from 10mm-15mm deep), 'L'-shaped pieces of metal into the frame from the underside. This is the model I have :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NfIv2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NfIv2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a picture of the pins in place :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pz49s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pz49s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and here's a description of the process : &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.ukpictureframingsupplies.co.uk/picture-frame-joining/picture-frame-construction-corner-joining-with-an-underpinner/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://blog.ukpictureframingsupplies.co.uk/picture-frame-joining/picture-frame-construction-corner-joining-with-an-underpinner/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="567" LastEditorUserId="567" LastEditDate="2021-03-04T08:41:50.377" LastActivityDate="2021-03-04T08:41:50.377" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11572" CreationDate="2021-02-26T16:41:37.910" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is never a good idea to join shorter boards to create a span to carry any significant loads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, there will always be situations where the beam may be longer than available material and joining pieces will be a necessary option. The actual layout of the 'beam' pieces is critical. You have not shown the actual arrangement of the boards you wish to join, so I cannot comment directly, but you should consider an important structural factor called 'bending moment'.  In a simple span (beam supported at both ends), the point of maximum bending force (moment) is at the center of the span.  In addition, the weakest point of your laminated beam will be where two boards butt to each other.  If that joint is in the middle then you are aligning the weakest point of the beam with the location of greatest stress.  So, for instance if you laminate three pieces of wood to create your beam, I would place the center joint at the center and the two outside joints as far from the center as possible.  The closer those joints are to the end bearing points, the less bending moment (and more strength) they will have.  It is also important to make certain that the beam pieces fully adhere to each other with a good glue bond and/or mechanical fasteners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any event, this handmade composite beam will not be nearly as strong as full span materials.  I would never recommend it for any structural application without consulting a structural engineer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2021-02-26T16:41:37.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11575" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-26T21:19:41.833" Score="0" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to make something like in this picture &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4XIfb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4XIfb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;backrest&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of using 1.2mm plywood doubled on each side. Is birch plywood (which seems to be quite a bit cheaper) any worse than pine?&#xA;If you have any tips and suggestions as to how to achieve that kind of effect, that'd be much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2021-02-26T21:19:41.833" Title="Pine vs Birch plywood bending" Tags="|plywood|wood-selection|bending|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11580" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-27T16:40:22.260" Score="0" ViewCount="112" Body="&lt;p&gt;Almost finished this small cutting board (approx. 1&amp;quot; thick, 6&amp;quot; by 8&amp;quot;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zQzAa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zQzAa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/supplies/finishing/finishes/20056-walnut-oil&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;walnut oil from LeeValley&lt;/a&gt; and applied it after sanding and other finish touches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's been already about 36 hours since I applied it and wiped out the excess, and it still feels &amp;quot;oily&amp;quot;  (as in, I touch the board and my fingers get oily).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder whether I applied too much?  Being end grain, as soon as I apply, it sucks it in, so I kind of kept applying until there was sort of a pool of liquid.  Left it a minute or two, then wiped it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How long (ballpark) should I wait before I start using the board? (or more in general, if I did indeed apply too much, what can I do now to rectify this?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Just now (after having oiled and waited the ~ 36 hours), I noticed that the surface was not smooth enough, so I re-sanded (with a random orbital sander, a Dewalt DWE6423K) for maybe 5 to 10 minutes per side.  Do I need to reapply oil?  (it does not look like it needs it — the picture above was taken after this second round of sanding, but I thought I'd ask)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9521" LastActivityDate="2021-02-27T16:40:22.260" Title="Questions on walnut oil on black walnut end grain cutting board" Tags="|finishing|oiling|end-grain|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11582" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-28T02:38:57.333" Score="0" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a desk from amazon, it says it holds up to 200lbs. Not sure what the tank weighs when full, I’m just wondering if y’all think it’ll hold the weight with some extra support in the center maybe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MB9vV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MB9vV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9965" LastActivityDate="2021-02-28T22:59:04.017" Title="Can I put a 25 gallon fish tank on an amazon basics desk?" Tags="|safety|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2021-03-03T17:12:27.860" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1080" CreationDate="2021-02-28T03:38:41.337" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used a Swiffer dust cloth(took 3) and then a microfiber washcloth to get the dust off of a newly sanded(laminate) bathroom tower.  Worked really well.  Unfortunately, I initially used diluted dish soap and water in a bucket to wipe them.  WITHOUT VACCUMING THEM FIRST!  Do NOT do this!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9966" LastActivityDate="2021-02-28T03:38:41.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11582" CreationDate="2021-02-28T22:49:52.763" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;With gravel and the glass , pretty close to 250 # . Not that much vertical stationary load : I would be concerned more with lateral movement . Significant lateral bracing is required. Some day someone may lean against it or someone may bump it. I see some diagonal bracing but I am not impressed. Full disclosure; I have built several stands , likely stronger than need be , and welded braces in commercial steel stands that I did not trust. I just started thinking , I doubt there are commercial 25's in the US, highly likely it is a 29 ( so 290 # all in). Some chance of a deep 20 . A 29 is 18&amp;quot; deep , a deep 20 is 16 &amp;quot; deep. Rough dimensions as my tanks in those sizes are stainless frame because they are old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3966" LastEditorUserId="3966" LastEditDate="2021-02-28T22:59:04.017" LastActivityDate="2021-02-28T22:59:04.017" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11523" CreationDate="2021-03-02T13:06:43.153" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Along the lines of John Cannon, bit of plastic drain pipe, stuff rag in both ends, wallpaper stripper steam feed in one end, let it run for 1hr/inch thickness. With gloves, take it out IMMEDIATELY form and clamp it to shape; 1 hour later, simples!&#xA;Notes; epoxy after, as steam will soften epoxy. Slightly over-bend as it will spring back. In theory you 'can only' steam green timber as the the seasoning process removes the lignin; my experience says this it not always true.The lignin softens then re-hardens on cooling, hence retaining the shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9823" LastActivityDate="2021-03-02T13:06:43.153" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="232" CreationDate="2021-03-04T09:12:00.023" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was searching this board for 'picture frames' and  came across this question and thought I'd add an answer which might be of interest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 'correct' way (i.e. the way every professional frame does it) to trim moulding for picture frames is to use a Morso mitre guillotine (or a copy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FiWmh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FiWmh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Morso mitre guillotine&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes &lt;em&gt;perfectly&lt;/em&gt; smooth cuts at any angle (but usually 45 degrees) and has a measurement system that uses a vernier-type scale that allows you to dial in the size of the glass (plus 3-4mm as the glass shouldn't be tight up against the frame), the depth of the rebate in the moulding and then it give cuts accurate to the mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fYyeq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fYyeq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Morso scale&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You place the moulding against the 45 degree stop (having used one side of the guillotine to make your initial angled cut) read the depth of the rebate from the vertical scale, then set this reading on the top horizontal scale against the desired glass size on the bottom horizontal scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if the rebate depth is 25 mm and the glass size is 350mm, slide the top scale so that 25 is against 350 and then use the foot pedal to tike bites from the moulding. There is a hand control to move the blades in after each cut and 7-8 cuts completes the cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/cG9j8035F3A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/cG9j8035F3A&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm in no way suggesting you buy one of these, but thought you might be interested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also get a table-top version with a hand lever, and I believe these are popular with kitchen fitters etc who have to cut a lot of mouldings at 45 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="567" LastEditorUserId="567" LastEditDate="2021-03-04T12:45:04.513" LastActivityDate="2021-03-04T12:45:04.513" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="232" CreationDate="2021-03-04T19:31:35.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the proper way to measure for a miter joint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are often several good ways to tackle a woodworking task, and miter joints are certainly in that category. Whether to measure from the inside, the outside, or along the rabbet depends on your setup and which measurement is most important to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're using a table saw or miter saw and none of the dimensions are critical, then IMO the easiest way to make a mitered frame is to measure from the outside and then use a stop block. The two things that are essential for getting square corners are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The opposite sides need to be exactly the same length.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The ends are cut at exactly 45°.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a stop block with either your table saw's miter gauge or your miter saw's fence helps make your cuts repeatable, so that you can be sure that opposite sides are cut to the same length. Another way to do the same thing would be to fasten the opposite sides together and cut them both at the same time, but that might not work well depending on your stock's profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2021-03-04T19:31:35.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11590" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11593" CreationDate="2021-03-05T00:30:24.917" Score="1" ViewCount="956" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I restored an old family desk at home. Replaced the mouldings around the edges of the drawers, changed the handles and upholstered the cloth that sat on the desk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sanded down and stained the desk (3 coats), then I applied a satin varnish of the same colour (3 coats) then polished it all down with beeswax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently I have noticed that some of the varnish on the wood is wearing down where my wrist and palms rest on the desk. I only did the work less than a month ago so I am surprised that it's already wearing down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any recommendations on what I should do and what I should have done differently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9988" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-03-05T09:42:32.170" LastActivityDate="2021-03-05T09:42:32.170" Title="Varnish rubbing off on my desk" Tags="|finishing|staining|refinishing|varnish|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11591" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-05T00:50:44.367" Score="0" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m pulling apart a cabinet to do some work on it and have come across this screw housing (for want of a better word). Does anyone know what it is or, more to the point, how I get it undone? Does the housing pull out or something more elaborate? It’s hard to get in and see but it feels like the screw inside has a hexagonal hole in the head of it, however I can’t get any movement on that with the housing in place. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qgunW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qgunW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mystery housing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9989" LastActivityDate="2021-03-05T00:50:44.367" Title="Trying to identify and open a screw housing/ sheath/ thing surrounding it" Tags="|screws|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11592" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-05T03:41:35.540" Score="0" ViewCount="159" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bunch of 9' long by 6&amp;quot; 4/4 rough sawn (flat sawn) white oak in my garage. I'm curious as to whether I should expect it to cup and/or bow over time. It's kiln dried. I have it in stacks, 11 pieces high, on some 2 x 2 yellow pine every 14 inches or so to keep it off the floor. I live in a relatively humid climate. Should I expect that this lumber will change much over time? I don't plan on using it for the better part of a year. Is there anything besides what I've mentioned that I should do to keep it more stable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9955" LastActivityDate="2021-03-05T03:41:35.540" Title="Will 4/4 rough sawn white oak warp over time?" Tags="|lumber|warp|storage|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11590" CreationDate="2021-03-05T09:42:07.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only did the work &lt;strong&gt;less than a month ago&lt;/strong&gt; so I am surprised that its already wearing down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's likely why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Varnishes take time to complete the hardening process that converts them into their final cured form. This isn't just after they have dried. Broadly, it takes about a month&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What this means is that after varnishing something ideally one should wait a full month after the last coat has been applied before putting it into service. Obviously in practice this isn't always feasible, but one should wait &lt;em&gt;at minimum&lt;/em&gt; a couple of weeks. And until the requisite time has passed the item should be used lightly and with care.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a full cure you won't be able to detect any smell from the finish with your nose right against the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any recommendations on what I should do&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to refinish at least the affected areas. If you want to try to do a spot repair you need to dewax the entire area around the varnish losses using mineral spirits or paint thinner to start with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I would recommend diluting some of your varnish in a fresh container (to convert it into 'wiping varnish', more on that &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5891/how-to-fix-very-light-scratches-in-polyurethane-finish/5893#5893&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) and wiping on some light coats to the worn spots, aiming to blend them into the surrounding surfaces. You'll have to be the judge of whether these blend acceptably into the rest of the piece. If you find you can't do this to your liking you're looking at a complete refinish of the affected surfaces&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, of course wait a month before you lean against the desk much :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A note on wax&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;There is absolutely no need to wax freshly finished furniture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should ideally achieve whatever gloss level waxing gives you &lt;em&gt;with the finish itself&lt;/em&gt;. Why use it in the first place otherwise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By your own account you used the beeswax to polish up the piece, if you'd simply used a glossier varnish you'd have achieved the same end more directly, and far more durably — wax products, even the best of them with lots of harder waxes like carnauba in the formula, are merely furniture polishes and not finishes in their own right and they readily wear off surfaces (esp. arrises and corners) that see regular handling or rubbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; That's for ideal conditions, it takes longer when the temperature is lower and/or the humidity is high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; In which case I &lt;em&gt;highly&lt;/em&gt; recommend you don't sand again. Use a varnish stripper, this is what they're for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-03-05T09:42:07.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11535" CreationDate="2021-03-05T16:07:18.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had success (though not extensive experience) making linseed oil paint myself using boiled linseed oil from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.solventfreepaint.com/cleaned_linseed_oil.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SolventFreePaint.com&lt;/a&gt; and pigment from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.earthpigments.com/natural-paints/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;EarthPigments.com&lt;/a&gt;. There are a lot of different recipes out there. They all use BLO and pigment; some use a thinner. I don't typically use a thinner. If I use turpentine, it's only if painting outdoors. BLO/pigment ratios vary depending on your desired effect... stain-paint and/or color. See MSDS for Allback paints on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.solventfreepaint.com/i/PDF/MSDS-Linseed-Oil-Paint-150326.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SolventFreePaint site&lt;/a&gt; I'm not sure how much zinc oxide really does for speeding drying time; I've read that manganese siccative (which I've not used) is better for speeding drying and zinc oxide contributes to the hardness and strength of the paint (reacting with the BLO chemically, forms soaps when in contact with free fatty acids). I have read that zinc oxide can contribute to cracking of artist paints, see post on &lt;a href=&quot;https://justpaint.org/zinc-oxide-warnings-cautions-and-best-practices/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;justpaint.org&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here are some things to consider&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is your paint applied too thickly? Thin coats cure more quickly; some thicker coats will result in oxidization of the surface and take a really long time for oxidization of uncured paint below the surface (BLSO paint cures, not dries).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is your paint project in a cool location or a location that doesn't receive any UV light?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9994" LastActivityDate="2021-03-05T16:07:18.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11599" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12686" CreationDate="2021-03-06T12:24:53.353" Score="2" ViewCount="1067" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, I am a complete beginner! I've recently bought a couple of wood boards(~50cm×50cm×2cm) to make a board game scenery. It needs to be completely straight so that it can be placed on a table and played on it. I've noticed it started to bend so I clamped it to a straight surface to stop from bending and it thankfully has stopped. My concern is that once I release it and paint it, it will bend again. I was thinking of buying some wood/steel/aluminium ribbons/strips and screw it to the base of the board in a square shape(?) to keep it flat. Is that going to work? What does one usually do in this cases?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9998" LastActivityDate="2021-04-05T15:54:36.353" Title="Help a novice with warping pine wood boards" Tags="|wood|technique|furniture|pine|bending|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11600" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-06T19:32:22.383" Score="0" ViewCount="704" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently planning an Eagle Project in which I am building a pergola with a porch swing attached to one of the top pieces. In doing so I need to figure out if I will need a bigger piece of wood or alter the design in order make the swing usable. I've been searching the internet for about half an hour now and haven't been able to figure out a way to calculate how much weight it will be able to handle. I am hoping there is an equation that I am able to use in order to calculate the maximum load based on the type of wood length between the two chains, and with the wood being supported on both ends. Any help is greatly appreciated.&#xA;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastActivityDate="2021-03-13T01:51:25.920" Title="How can I figure out how much weight a piece of wood will be able to handle before breaking?" Tags="|weight-capacity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="280" CreationDate="2021-03-06T22:08:54.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I embarked on this mission yesterday and was quite successful by using a heat gun on low heat at first. Once the paint bubbles I used rigid hand scrapper like the ones used to fill holes in walls. Once the main coat of paint was off I used an old toothbrush to apply paint stripper and left for two minutes before brushing with a small metal bristle brush that looks like a toothbrush. Worked a treat&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10000" LastActivityDate="2021-03-06T22:08:54.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11602" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-07T19:38:10.697" Score="2" ViewCount="1094" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a built-in that uses walnut ply boards for the seating/TV area. I tried to position the board you see but now it's stuck. The left side is sticking out 0.25&amp;quot; more than the right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cbFB2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cbFB2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;stuck board&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to pull the board out without damaging the finish so I can sand/cut some of the material away to make more room, but with both hands and gloves, I cannot budge it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What options do I have to remove the board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9518" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-03-08T09:15:02.067" LastActivityDate="2021-04-13T22:55:43.313" Title="How to remove a board that's *really* stuck" Tags="|furniture|assembly|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11602" CreationDate="2021-03-07T19:50:21.143" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bow it up in the center, this should reduce the overall length allowing you to pull it free. Another person or two would help - have a hand at each end of the board, and pull up on the center. Hopefully the board is flexible enough to wiggle out. You may be able to use clamps to substitute people holding onto the board and a clamp in &amp;quot;expansion mode&amp;quot; to bow the board upwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, I would hammer it gently from below from one of the sides, this way any damage to the finish would be on one side only. Then if you shorten the board a little to make it not such a tight fit you could remove said damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastEditorUserId="534" LastEditDate="2021-03-08T15:03:47.227" LastActivityDate="2021-03-08T15:03:47.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11602" CreationDate="2021-03-07T22:59:43.140" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the hand method suggested in the answer from Eli Iser does not work, consider to lightly clamp (with pads) each end to the frame underneath. The purpose of the clamps is not to tightly attach it to the frame but to prevent lifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Create simple wedge shaped shims from scrap wood with a short taper at the front and an extended flat portion for the remainder of the length, which should match the width of the board to be lifted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tapping in the wedge shims will lift the center while the loose clamps hold the ends down, providing the bowing suggested in Eli's answer. Once bowed, one clamp can be fully released, allowing the entire board to be lifted free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fT1KD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fT1KD.png&quot; alt=&quot;wedge shim&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be necessary to create a more-gradual taper on the first set of wedges to be inserted, followed by a more-abrupt taper to get sufficient lift overall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastEditorUserId="3985" LastEditDate="2021-03-08T01:01:35.150" LastActivityDate="2021-03-08T01:01:35.150" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11605" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11606" CreationDate="2021-03-08T15:33:36.330" Score="2" ViewCount="183" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a small cabinet/table/thing. It includes two drawers at the top, and solid sides. These are traditional drawers sitting on wooden runners, and the sides of the drawers are a close fit to the sides of the cabinet. I was going for the &amp;quot;piston fit&amp;quot; style drawer - can't say I made it exactly that accurate but it's close enough for the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The piece is nearly ready for finishing but I'm not sure whether to finish the inside of the solid cabinet sides, or the underside of the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've searched this site as well as Google, but I can only find information on whether to finish the inside of the drawers themselves (it seems generally they're not finished).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it makes any difference, I'm probably going to finish this with standard polyurethane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2258" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-03-10T10:37:37.280" LastActivityDate="2021-03-10T10:37:37.280" Title="Should the inside of a drawer opening be finished?" Tags="|finishing|drawer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11605" CreationDate="2021-03-08T17:00:20.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, the interior of the cabinet is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; finished unless it's on display. So portions behind doors or just open would be finished, but portions hidden behind drawers would not be finished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may, of course, choose to finish yours, but yes, any contact surfaces will have the finish rubbed off reasonably quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go take a gander at your local antique shop, you'll notice that very few, if any, of the cabinets have finish inside the drawer areas and most are no worse for wear because of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2021-03-08T17:00:20.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11600" CreationDate="2021-03-08T19:06:15.887" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In woodworking, as in Civil Engineering, the simplest solutions are often the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go ahead and build your design. Then apply successively larger weights, until it fails. At that point, you will know how much weight it can support. Go back and re-build your design, or re-design your project, as appropriate!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gocomics.com/calvinandhobbes/1986/11/26&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.gocomics.com/calvinandhobbes/1986/11/26&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1925" LastActivityDate="2021-03-08T19:06:15.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11608" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-09T02:27:53.677" Score="1" ViewCount="454" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a desktop using oak wood. I used tongue and groove joints to join four planks together, gluing the planks along the joints with Titebond III, but there were some small gaps between the planks because some of the planks weren't perfectly square. I added some &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lowes.com/pd/Minwax-Color-Changing-5-5-oz-Natural-Wood-Filler/1000567879&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wood filler&lt;/a&gt; to fill the gaps and let it sit overnight to dry. The filler filled the gaps well, but the excess added some dark spots to the wood that make it look dirty. I'm planning on finishing the wood with oil polyurethane and would like to remove these blemishes, if possible, before applying it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0hjgh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0hjgh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dark spots on wood&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried waiting to see if it would dry out but haven't noticed a difference after 8 hours. I've also tried sanding with 100, 150, and 220 grit sandpaper but didn't notice a difference either. Is there anything I can do to remove the blemishes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10018" LastEditorUserId="10018" LastEditDate="2021-03-09T12:44:49.670" LastActivityDate="2021-03-09T17:43:01.210" Title="Excess wood filler left dark spots on oak wood" Tags="|finishing|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11609" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-09T04:57:49.637" Score="0" ViewCount="558" Body="&lt;p&gt;I learned recently that boiled linseed is not a great finish when exposed to any amount of water. I have a piece near a sink that gets a few drops now and then, and these have become lighter spots due to the water evaporating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would do the work of unmounting the piece, a bit of sanding, then another coat of BLO then a couple layers of oil-based satin polyurethane on top. However I do not have time to wait the minimum of a few days for the linseed oil to cure before applying the PU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe since they are both oil based, I can use them in conjunction, though I am afraid of an even more blotched finish if I blot BLO on the water spots then go forth with PU. Any suggestions on restoring the uniformity of the original finish before immediately applying a couple coats of PU expediently so I can remount the piece and get the area functional again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10020" LastEditorUserId="10020" LastEditDate="2021-03-09T06:13:27.567" LastActivityDate="2021-03-11T09:08:03.400" Title="fixing water spots on boiled linseed finish" Tags="|finishing|finish-selection|refinishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11610" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11613" CreationDate="2021-03-09T09:27:07.780" Score="1" ViewCount="5977" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently preparing a project that will involve re-finishing several tables - one cooking and two working ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About two decades ago a friend of the family left at my parents' a table he has re-finished himself. The finish was really nice - shiny, transparent and presenting the grain of the wood to the touch, but without lifting the fibers. Back at the time, he insisted about how we could put hot pots directly on the table without burning it or damaging the finish or cut on it without scratching the surface. We were pretty skeptical, but 20 years later the finish is still pristine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to use the same finish in my project. Unfortunately we have lost any contact with him, so I can't ask him what he used, but given how my partner and I are using our table, I would really like to have something similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far all the searches I did on the internet and in the stores suggested it could be a polyurethane coating, but didn't bring up anything specific. Similarly, they suggested using a teak oil whenever heat-resistance was needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could such a finish be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, what finish you would choose to make a smooth, grain-preserving, scratch and heat resistant table surface?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: here is the best photo I have of the surface up close: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r3yUa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r3yUa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7909" LastEditorUserId="7909" LastEditDate="2021-03-10T10:38:09.380" LastActivityDate="2023-04-22T09:04:01.923" Title="Finishing a table - scratch-resistant, heat-resistant transparent finish" Tags="|finishing|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11608" CreationDate="2021-03-09T17:43:01.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I followed @Graphus advice and continued to sand the wood using 80, 150, and 220 grit sandpaper. Thankfully, the spots were almost entirely removed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eYmro.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eYmro.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10018" LastActivityDate="2021-03-09T17:43:01.210" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7010" CreationDate="2021-03-09T22:34:22.580" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In your linseed oil mix add a very small amount of terebine to your oil and turpentine. This speeds up oxidation ie drying.  Wipe on sparingly and remove excess oil to get a smooth satin finish. Allow each coat to dry first .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10024" LastActivityDate="2021-03-09T22:34:22.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11610" CreationDate="2021-03-10T12:01:03.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to use the same finish in my project. Unfortunately we have lost any contact with him, so I can't ask him what he used&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first thought was that your friend used conversion varnish, a two-component finish. Two-part polyurethane is an order of magnitude more durable than the toughest of 'normal' consumer-level finishes, oil-based polyurethane&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, although as I mention in my Comment above I was a little wary based on how thinly the finish seemed to be applied from your description (with the grain structure still evident)&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but given how my partner and I are using our table, I would really like to have something similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conversion varnishes are not easy to apply and harder still to apply to a high standard. So although it's a good candidate for what was used it's perhaps not something worth investigating for anyone without a lot of finishing experience and limited tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that we can see a photo honestly this looks like it was finished in oil-based poly. While I can't tell you it will be durable enough to match the performance of the finish your friend used I can tell you that it's tough enough for most users on furniture in daily use, including in challenging situations like on a working kitchen table, or a dining table in a family with young children.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the good news is that it's easy to apply to a high standard, even for the first-timer :-) The way to do this is to decant some to a fresh container, thin it down somewhat&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; and apply it with rag, wad of paper towel or by brush, then wipe some or all of it off. It's this wiping away of much or all of the excess that makes wiping varnish so forgiving, since the thin layer left behind dries more reliably flat (AKA 'levels out'), attracts less dust (so less need to 'de-nib') and also dries much more quickly when the working conditions are not ideal, e.g. during colder months, in an unheated workshop or garage etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More on wiping varnish in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5891/how-to-fix-very-light-scratches-in-polyurethane-finish/5893#5893&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt; with essentially a full description of the process from finishing guru Bob Flexner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want a glossy surface based on the Q which simplifies things but just to highlight this for future searchers: &lt;em&gt;regardless of the eventual finish you want&lt;/em&gt; buy gloss anyway. A reduced-gloss result (satin/semi-gloss as well as something more matt) is easily achieved on gloss varnish, and should not normally be done with successive applications of store-bought satin or matt varnish as this tends to hide too much of the colour and feature of the wood, and at worst can look cloudy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Despite the name, this type of varnish is largely something other than polyurethane. Its more technical name is &lt;em&gt;uralkyd varnish&lt;/em&gt;, and this makes it a little clearer that it is merely alkyd varnish with some polyurethane added to improve scratch and heat resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Normally for really top-level protection a finish (even one as durable as conversion varnish) needs to be built up enough that it would fill the grain, even of oak which has the most pronounced grain of the common furniture woods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; You will have to be guided by the viscosity of the varnish you buy rather than relying on a formula, as all varnishes vary somewhat depending on how much the manufacturer themselves choose to dilute their product before we buy it! But rest assured you can't over-thin, no amount of dilution will affect final hardness. So although it slows down the total finishing time (you'll need more coats) you can thin &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt;, for example if you want to make the varnish as easy to apply as possible to large surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-03-10T12:01:03.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11609" CreationDate="2021-03-11T09:08:03.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can begin to apply oil-based varnish such as polyurethane on top of wood you've applied BLO to. You actually don't need to wait any time at all for the BLO to 'dry', you can begin to apply the varnish &lt;em&gt;immediately&lt;/em&gt; without any ill effects&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done this many times myself, but I should note that I am conscientious about removing excess BLO from the surface (as you're supposed to, and as modern instructions tend not to emphasise enough). Results might not be as good if you leave the surface slick with oil prior to the varnish going on; the varnish will still dry and then cure, just expect it to take longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I do not have time to wait the minimum of a few days for the linseed oil to cure before applying the PU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bad news for you here, the varnish itself won't be ready for use within a few days. It'll take a few &lt;em&gt;weeks&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Varnishes can't be relied on for waterproofing or scratch resistance until they have fully cured, and typically cure time for oil-based varnishes is given as one month&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. The most you can rush this is to wait about a fortnight, but you're taking a risk and do bear in mind this is highly dependent on local conditions as well as the varnish itself of course since all varnishes don't cure at the same rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, the finishing process alone will take longer than a few days!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want to apply a number of coats of varnish to build up good water resistance and generally you apply one coat per day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to pare this down to the bare minimum you're still looking at at least 16 days:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Day one you sand and oil the wood to remove the water marks, then apply the first coat of varnish.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Day two hopefully you can apply the second coat of varnish and then comes the hard part.... waiting two weeks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; The oil in/on the wood and the oil within the varnish just meld together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; In ideal conditions. And note this is one month after the last coat is applied, not the first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-03-11T09:08:03.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11615" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-10T22:59:11.270" Score="1" ViewCount="253" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am applying veneer to some bedroom furniture. I cut the veneer pieces so they overhang the substrate about 1 - .5 inches on all edges, and then I trim the veneer flush with the substrate.  This is going really well when I'm trimming the veneer with the grain.  But I have horrible tear out when I trim across the grain.  I tried a file and a knife with new blades.  But I still had issues.  Any suggestions?  Do I need a veneer saw for this?  Or should I just use a sanding block (which would be a bummer since the edges I'm worried about are 3 ft long -- that's a lot of sanding).  Any advice would be much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Marla K" LastActivityDate="2021-03-11T15:48:37.953" Title="Trimming veneer across the grain" Tags="|veneer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11600" CreationDate="2021-03-12T16:31:31.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In evaluating if the members in an assembly will be adequate, it is important to consider both the individual pieces, the connections and geometry of the entire project together to determine if it is adequate. Perhaps the word 'breaking' is not the best term to use, but rather 'failure' works better.  The project won't necessarily fail because of a single piece suddenly breaks.  Rather it will most likely experience excessive movement, bending or joint failure over a period of time due to unusual loading or repetitive stresses. Structural engineers study for years to understand the strength of materials, the distribution of forces, the capabilities of connections and put it all together in a complete design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To directly answer your question, evaluating the strength of an individual board is quite inexact.  There are plenty of websites that can help you determine the design capabilities of structural framing members (do a search for wood span calculators).  Note that these have built in safety margins based upon industry standards.  They do not tell you when the board will break, but rather what sizes are necessary to limit deflection (sagging) of the board. Woodworkers on this site often reference the 'sagulator' to evaluate the strength for smaller, non structural, project elements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@Graphus entered a comment for your question which I believe offers the best approach, 'Don't reinvent the wheel'.  Design your project using the examples that are all around us.  I have never seen a woodworking project that does not borrow from the countless examples from the past.  If you want to construct a porch swing, look at the many project available on the internet.  Seek out pergolas in your area and evaluate the size and spans of the framing.  If you can, test them out to see how they work for your application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you evolve your project design from other examples you may have specific questions.  Please feel free to post new questions here to get focused answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2021-03-13T01:51:25.920" LastActivityDate="2021-03-13T01:51:25.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11618" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-12T21:12:42.013" Score="0" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JMLGD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JMLGD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;Outfit that set up our bed years ago used wrong sized round-head carriage bolts to attach the headboard to the frame. Should have used 3/8&amp;quot; and used 1/4&amp;quot; instead. The bolts are also too short, so no way to hold either end to remove the nuts. Square shoulders of bolts simply spin in the frame, so have been unable to remove the nuts. No room to use hacksaw on either end without damaging the wood. I'm no carpenter and have only basic tools, so would sure appreciate any advice on this!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&#xA;Doc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not a good pic of the bolt head but best I could get without rearranging the bedroom! It does NOT have a screwdriver slot in the head, although it appears to in the photo. It does however show that the bolt does not extend beyond the nut, so impossible to grip it. The nut is loosened as far as it will go. I tried clamping a piece of wood across the bolt head, but bolt still turns. Seems like it is a lock-nut of some kind.&#xA;Thanks!&#xA;Doc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10034" LastEditorUserId="10034" LastEditDate="2021-03-13T16:35:14.447" LastActivityDate="2021-03-13T18:48:00.277" Title="How to remove undersized carriage bolt from headboard?" Tags="|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10625" CreationDate="2021-03-13T07:23:58.827" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a 4x12 x 8' and cut it into 2 4x12 x 4'&#xA;I then used 4 6&amp;quot; long 3/4&amp;quot; dowels as pegs, 2 2' lengths of allthread, and glued&#xA;them together to make a 4x24 x 4' top (ok, 3 1/2 x 23 1/2)&#xA;I mortise &amp;amp; tenoned 4x4 legs into this and 2x8 runners into the legs&#xA;It was a bit expensive, about $40 just for the 4x12, but the thing is rock solid.&#xA;When I built it 7 years ago and just today I planed the surface flat using the sliding router box on rails trick.&#xA;It worked great for the tools I had at the time, and now is the center of my garage shop along with my table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10036" LastActivityDate="2021-03-13T07:23:58.827" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11618" CreationDate="2021-03-13T18:48:00.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could hacksaw a slot across the bolt and the rod that it's threaded onto. Use a slot screwdriver to hold the rod and a wrench to spin the nut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2021-03-13T18:48:00.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11622" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-14T02:34:08.647" Score="0" ViewCount="446" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard different names for the 'groove' that allows drill bits and driver bits to be used in a quick-change-type drill. For simplicity I'm referring to the thing labeled 'power groove' here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vOHaF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vOHaF.png&quot; alt=&quot;Driver bit with a power groove.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I vastly prefer these because they're fast to change in and out.  I need some brad point bits, and I discovered that they are not really available, as a large prepackaged set, with a power groove (or whatever you want to call it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is this? Is it just a quirk of the world that no one has made such a product? (And if there is one, please do point, the largest 'set' I've seen is a mere 5 piece compared to a 29 piece.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is there something about these types of bits that is a compromise such that informed woodworkers know to avoid them and so such a product is not made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10039" LastActivityDate="2021-03-14T02:52:22.900" Title="Are there disadvantages to quick-change drill and driver bits?" Tags="|drill-bits|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11622" CreationDate="2021-03-14T02:52:22.900" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;These kinds of quick-change bits are very handy, but there is inevitably some slop in the fit; that is, if you place your finder on the drill tip you will probably be able  be able to rock it slightly from side to side.  This is never an issue when driving screws, as the conical shape of the screw driving into the wood prevents the screw from wandering, with the job of the driver merely to provide downward rotational force. But when drilling holes, even with a brad-point bit, it's essential that the point of the bit does not wander off-axis as this will result in an enlarged hole. In my experience these drill bits mounted to a hex shank do always wander.&#xA;To save time using conventional cylindrical bits, a drill with a keyless chuck makes it quicker to change bits quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1664" LastActivityDate="2021-03-14T02:52:22.900" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11538" CreationDate="2021-03-14T03:10:16.517" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've all been there. The wood will be expanding/contracting slightly with moisture changes in the air. As you have screwed the top tightly to the frame these small but powerful forces are twisting the frame. Cross-bracing may only get you so far. The trick is to attach the top in such a way that a small amount of movement is permitted. The key here is to make the base frame assembly a strong unit in itself, rather than relying on the screwed-on top to add strength (due to the relatively narrow pieces used in the base, and the different grain orientations, this is less likely to twist than the wider, same-grain-oriented top). Have a look under a bought wooden table; you may see either screws coming up from the frame up into the top through oversized holes or clips/blocks attached to the underside of the top that fit into oversized grooves in the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than tear your nice bench to pieces, your best bet is to let it adjust to the moisture where it is going to live (assuming this is inside, where humidity changes should be less pronounced than outside), trim the legs as best you can, pack the remaining gaps between floor and legs with small pieces of card/wood, and chalk it up to experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1664" LastActivityDate="2021-03-14T03:10:16.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11625" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-15T21:34:40.503" Score="0" ViewCount="257" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to make some handles for chisels, mallets, and hatchets. I have a polesaw and plan to cut branch wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Available suitable species are: apple, hawthorn, dogwood (Florida and kousa), locust (black and honey), hornbeam, hickory, rowan and blackgum/tupelo. Which can I pick for each application?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10049" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-03-16T09:54:34.833" LastActivityDate="2021-03-18T11:16:20.310" Title="Tool handle wood - Which to cut?" Tags="|wood|cutting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11626" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-15T22:29:01.637" Score="0" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a mirror with a frame which has a dark stain which has a gradient into an almost black finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately a part of the mirror's frame got damage and small chunk was taken out of the frame. Despite the fact the frame is dark, the wood is quite light so the damage really stands out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've mixed saw dust of a similar complexion to the unstained wood with powdered wood glue (cascamite) and I've filled the damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem now is recreating the original finish in the new patch. I am fairly sure that is has some sort of shellac or other has finish, but I am not sure how stain it to get the gradient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've included some pictures of the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fvGhv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fvGhv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ItEXs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ItEXs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/87fAX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/87fAX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a picture of the filled damage&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jRNNG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jRNNG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7922" LastActivityDate="2021-03-15T22:29:01.637" Title="Recreate dark wood/gradient finish" Tags="|finishing|staining|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8467" CreationDate="2021-03-16T09:11:07.127" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Denatured alcohol is clean burning.  You could just dissolve the residue with DA, then pour out into a metal/fire safe container and ignite to burn it off.  Use caution, stay safe, attempt at your own risk, yada, yada...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10050" LastActivityDate="2021-03-16T09:11:07.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11628" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-17T08:18:04.327" Score="3" ViewCount="769" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are renovating the hallway floors in my old apartment, and am running into a splintery patch I am not sure how to deal with appropriately. The floor boards are pine, 115 years old, about 30 cm (12&amp;quot;) wide, 7m (20+ feet) long. In the middle of the middle board, the board was an unfortunate cut compared to the grain, and is delaminating (?) creating splinters. We still have to see how large an area this is a problem over after further sanding, but it will be at least 60 cm (2 feet), and up to 1.5 meters (5 feet) long, around 5 cm (2&amp;quot;) wide. Pictures attached for reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4QCPz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4QCPz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hallway floor&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jnL4U.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jnL4U.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;closeup of main damage&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing the entire board is not really an option for practical reasons (time, cost, finding a matching board, damage to the remaining boards in the process), and replacing an entire section of the boards, coming with two cross cuts, would significantly affect the look of the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do have some shorter comparable floor boards from the kitchen, and so I was considering putting in a Dutchman patch, maybe even with tapered edges to smoothen the transition between the patch and the board. My main concern is how well such a large patch would hold up over time, with movement of the boards, in particular due to use. Any tips or recommendations on how to approach this? In particular how deep should the patch go for structural reasons? Should I fix it in place with some screws as well? The boards are about 3cm (1 1/8 &amp;quot;) thick, so there is some room in that direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should also mention that we are intending to oil the floors, but could consider PU lacquer if this is a huge practical improvement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks a lot!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[I am aware that some boards have separated far enough for the tongue to have come out of the groove, but trying to take out the floor and laying it fresh is too much work and would likely damage the other boards too much.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit/update:&lt;/strong&gt; in the end, taking out and relaying the entire floor was not feasible given time constraints, as well as the likelihood of irreparably damaging the very long boards. We also did not want to affect the look of the overall floor by replacing a section. As usual, this ended up being a rushed job before a hard move-in deadline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond the particular problem I described, we fastened the boards with extra screws since they were creaking, we patched tongue and groove cracks with strips of new pine since they were too large. After the final sanding stage, the problematic area was still splintering. To &amp;quot;fix&amp;quot; this I glued down any separating bits that were not sticking out, and used pine-colored wood filler to even the edges out, to help prevent further splintering. I then gave it a final sand. The entire floor was finished with Osmo polyx natural, which contains a small amount of white pigment, to closely approximate the look of untreated wood. A year in, we have no issues with splinters (at least in what used to be the most problematic looking area!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below I include an image of the original spot, and an image of the overall floor (don't get distracted by the dust etc., haven't cleaned in a while!). In detail the spot certainly does not look perfect, but it is hardly noticeable in the floor over all (and that's coming from me, very aware of the existence of the spot). The pine filler is too light, and often too uniform, but blends in reasonably well given the new pine strips in the grooves. Given more time I might have done things differently, but I am fine with the current result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Btw, I used scraps to experiment with glue and sawdust mixtures, as well as epoxy. I found glue and sawdust not suitable for a surface treatment like this, because it is difficult to get flat and difficult to sand without it overheating and darkening. Epoxy unavoidably seeps into the wood and darkens it, which is not a look we wanted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VR738.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&amp;quot;repaired&amp;quot; spot&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zFrMQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;overall look&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10057" LastEditorUserId="10057" LastEditDate="2022-07-15T08:40:35.443" LastActivityDate="2022-07-15T08:40:35.443" Title="Repairing splintering line in 115 year old pinewood floor" Tags="|wood-repair|durability|flooring|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11629" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-17T09:46:11.977" Score="0" ViewCount="300" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought wood dowel (beech, to be precise) with a diameter of 8mm and length of 100 cm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am planning to use them as arrows but there is a problem: my archery skills can be terrible sometimes and I hit hard objects like tree, concrete etc. and I am worried that this will break my arrows one by one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I harden the wood to reduce the chance of breakage with the following additional requirements?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It shouldn't be too expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It shouldn't increase the diameter too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10058" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-03-18T09:46:05.163" LastActivityDate="2021-03-18T09:46:05.163" Title="Hardening wood arrows" Tags="|strength|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11629" CreationDate="2021-03-17T16:19:05.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Breaking your arrows 1-by-1 is certainly better than breaking them all at once! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could use aluminum arrows, but they might bend instead of breaking. Carbon fiber would shatter. Wood will break. AIUI, it's the nature of the beast, and part of the cost of &amp;quot;doing business&amp;quot; (or participating in the sport).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All sporting equipment will wear out and/or break requiring repair/replacement. Just think, you might miss the target completely and lose one in the woods somewhere - nothing you can do to prevent that one but get better as an archer. I presume that making your own arrows is going to be less expensive that purchasing manufactured ones, so consider these a lower cost opportunity to improve. You can get more expensive ones one you're hitting the target consistently enough to justify the expense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2021-03-17T16:19:05.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11625" CreationDate="2021-03-18T11:16:20.310" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You perhaps don't need to be as cautious as you might think selecting for each use here because you're not hafting significant striking tools, e.g. full-size axes, mauls, or sledges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously you don't want to make any handles that you're sure are going to fail but while there are clearly better and worse woods it must be acknowledged that when need demanded — e.g. isolated locations, snowed in during winter, on the frontier — even felling axes were sometimes handled using woods that most authorities and modern experts (or 'experts') say can't be used for such a purpose. Not shouldn't, can't. And yet those handles may have worked for their users for a very long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This relates to a point I made in a previous Answer a long time ago on a similar topic: &lt;em&gt;forget the species, what's &lt;strong&gt;this piece&lt;/strong&gt; like?&lt;/em&gt; In short, a nice straight-grained piece of a lesser species could be superior to a mediocre piece of a superior species.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some food for thought on this point &lt;a href=&quot;http://axeconnected.blogspot.com/2013/03/weak-handles-revisited.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chisels&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;There isn't one requirement for the handles of chisels, ideal characteristics depend on intended use — striking (heavy use of mallet or hammer) or non-striking (paring, light use of mallet), as well as the type of chisel blade that will be mounted (socketed or tanged, and if tanged what type of tang exactly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with the fairly narrow form of Japanese bench chisels, which include a substantial steel hoop at the end of the handle&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, the four or so species commonly used are not at all equal. Japanese chisels are almost universally struck with hammers and even with the reinforcement of the steel hoop the less-durable woods do split with enough use, but this is known going in and we can adopt the same philosophy to some extent...... especially if the wood is effectively free!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Socket chisels are a little different to most tanged types because the socket itself helps to prevent splitting. This is why the range of species used for socket chisels both in the past and today is wider than with traditional square-tanged chisels. As few as three species were used for the vast majority of tanged chisels in some markets&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for paring chisels you could probably use almost anything and get away with it, even pine might do (aesthetics aside of course LOL). I've seen a refurbed chisel set up as a parer but also used lightly with a mallet which had a new handle of cherry or a close relative and it has held up perfectly well in the years since it was fitted. Cherry is inferior to almost every species in your list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For bench chisels, I would personally try to favour hawthorn and dogwood if suitable pieces are available. Apple could work well too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For any chisel that you intend to use hard, hornbeam, black locust and blackgum are ideal. Reputation suggests handles in any of these three will be virtually unbreakable&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;, especially the blackgum. If you prefer the looks of any of the other species though just hoop the handle and you should be fine.... the new handles could easily outlive you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mallets&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Of course there are mallets and &lt;em&gt;mallets&lt;/em&gt;, but I've seen hammer heads fitted to hafts made from lesser woods, even mystery woods, that have held up to use. Since you have your pick though you don't have to deliberately choose something lesser and if you want you could select based on the same criteria as immediately below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hatchets&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Hickory is the obvious first pick here, since it's considered the preeminent handle wood for striking implements (and no longer just in North America, it has supplanted the former go-to choice, ash, in the British Isles and I presume elsewhere). However it's by no means the only candidate and hornbeam, rowan and black locust can apparently work very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the hatchets are likely to see the most sustained hard use do be more careful in your selection of starting material. Qualities such as the flow of grain, rounout (if any), grain orientation relative to the striking axis, the spacing of growth rings, are all factors that affect strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A few notes on seasoning&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Once you begin to dry you should continue to do so. If you aren't drying long lengths of branch as they do in stickmaking your cut blanks should definitely have their end grain sealed to minimise wastage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hands down the best end-grain sealer for the home user is melted wax. Doesn't matter what kind of wax, so any old candle stubs, canning wax, toilet-ring seal can be used. Don't be the least fussy if the wax is dusty or dirty, or has soot on it, none of that matters for this (and when melted a lot of crud will settle to the bottom anyway). Apply two coats with cooling in between and you should reduce crack formation during drying by 97% or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you harvest fresh (and colder conditions are the ideal time to harvest new material since the sap is not running) you do have the option to boil your handle blanks if you have a pot of suitable size for what you're making. Read a bit on this &lt;a href=&quot;http://users.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/drawknive.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, where I first learned of it. Over the years since I've done this myself with great success both in a pot on the stovetop as well as in water in the microwave.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also force-dried wood in the microwave, but it's not something I would recommend unless you have a pressing need of dry stock &lt;em&gt;right now&lt;/em&gt; AND you don't value the starting material too much. It's smelly work (especially if you overheat&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt;), takes longer than you'd think.... which tends to lead to impatience and overheated wood, and there is no guarantee going in how much stock you'll lose to checks and other cracks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; As do some traditional Western chisels, including the 'registered  firmer chisel' type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Ash, beech and boxwood in the British tradition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; For anyone on the other side of the pond European hornbeam is not equivalent to the American variety. While it is still a fine wood it's not a match in terms of hardness or durability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt; Even without overheating you'll get a noticeable smell doing this. If you overheat and you see visible steam you'll get a boiled-wood smell, and not only is this unpleasant at the time it hangs around in the microwave for months. DAMHIK ^_^&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-03-18T11:16:20.310" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11632" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-19T23:09:20.400" Score="0" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a wooden shoe cabinet (actually it might have had some other purpose, but that's what it does now), whose side has... well, seen better days:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2vaUo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2vaUo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but its top face is in (somewhat) better shape:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8FQyv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8FQyv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to make it into something completely uniform and painted where you don't see the wood. I want it to look more like it used to before all the wear-and-tear, and staining/water-seepage etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I've never done restorative (or any proper kind of) woodwork before; nor have I painted nor varnished wood. But - this is the DIY site, so my questions is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What steps should I be taking to bring this piece of furniture into decent shape?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please include steps which are &amp;quot;investigational&amp;quot;, e.g. &amp;quot;check if X or Y&amp;quot;, not just actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there's any extra information I should provide, please let me know and I'll add it below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't know the reasons for the staining/discoloration, since I got the cabinet the way it is now.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The material is proper wood, all over - not chipboard. I don't know which wood though.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm not planning on buying a bunch of expensive electric tools for a one-time project.  But - you can certainly maike suggestions assuming such tools are available. Maybe I can get them and maybe I can't and will try some manual alternative.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I don't actually know, because I got it this way. I'm pretty sure the darker stain near the bottom is due to water, but I can't say for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;PS - The shoes are in there, you just don't see them from this angle.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10066" LastEditorUserId="10066" LastEditDate="2021-03-20T10:21:01.533" LastActivityDate="2021-03-22T01:36:08.380" Title="What should I do to restore/un-uglify my wooden shoe cabinet?" Tags="|sanding|restoration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11634" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-20T21:02:02.857" Score="1" ViewCount="258" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I cut a dado 2mm (1/16&amp;quot;+) bigger than a panel leaving space for movement, do I also need to leave 1mm of space on each side of the panel when inserting it or will the panel adjust itself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is for a shaker door in a cabinet where the styles and rails are made of 20mm maple and the panel is 9mm birch plywood. I was planning on making the dado 6mm deep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9905" LastEditorUserId="9905" LastEditDate="2021-03-21T08:45:32.957" LastActivityDate="2021-08-23T10:08:25.823" Title="Leaving floating space for a panel - do I need to center the panel?" Tags="|dado|panel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11635" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-21T17:53:56.180" Score="0" ViewCount="136" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to use TB 3 Ultimate to glue stacks of 4&amp;quot;x4&amp;quot;x8' together in a overlapping configuration to make a 12&amp;quot; tall garden bed. With it hold up under Pacific NW east cascade weather? It rains 9 months of the year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7418" LastEditorUserId="503" LastEditDate="2021-03-22T00:44:10.390" LastActivityDate="2021-03-22T14:16:26.180" Title="Titebond III Ultimate for raised garden bed" Tags="|glue|outdoor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11632" CreationDate="2021-03-22T01:36:08.380" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may have unrealistic expectations when you say &amp;quot;I want it to look more like it used to before all the wear-and-tear...&amp;quot;. The best you can probably hope for with furniture with this level of use/abuse is what is sometimes called &amp;quot;distressed&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;rustic&amp;quot;. That means that you make it look &lt;em&gt;better&lt;/em&gt; but accept the defects as part of the character of a used piece. I think you should accept this and strive to make it look nicely rustic, and I think it will be beautiful. As a note, furniture folks will often &lt;em&gt;purposely&lt;/em&gt; scratch, ding, and discolor brand new pieces, to give them the rustic look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many techniques, many preferences, many ways to do this, and many opinions. I will share mine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sand, sand, sand, sand, ad nauseum. You can do it by hand but it will be quicker/easier with electric sanders. I would start with a belt sander (work with caution- removes large amounts quickly, very aggressive) on the worst areas, like that end panel. The top, however; does not appear to need the aggressive belt sander. I would then switch to a random-orbit palm sander. For all sanding you start with coarse paper then use successively finer grit until it is as smooth as you want it to be.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stain. Lots of options here but I would use a traditional solvent-base wood stain. Start by testing colors on the underside-back of the top (or other appropriate inconspicuous place that won't show) and pick a color that pleases you and that is dark enough to help blend the stains that you can't sand out. The darker you use, the less of the wood's natural grain/beauty will show at the end.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;finish. I like oil finishes (e.g. tung oil, danish oil, linseed oil) as they seem to give a rich glow to the wood. They are, however, different than a brush-on water-base poly. The oil will be beautiful but will require several applications and some buffing, and does not give a hard protective surface like polyurethane. Polyurethane will give a hard durable surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2261" LastActivityDate="2021-03-22T01:36:08.380" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11635" CreationDate="2021-03-22T10:03:47.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With it hold up under Pacific NW east cascade weather?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nobody can give you a definitive answer to this as there are too many maybes. If you want to use Titebond III the best advice is to read what Franklin themselves say about its properties on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.titebond.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;their website&lt;/a&gt; and make your own call.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have any reservations about using it — and I think you should have some — use a foaming polyurethane instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to being reliably 100% waterproof polyurethanes offer these clear advantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A longer open time, aiding assembly of the beds in one shot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Probably the chief reason to select them is they deal with wetter wood better. Franklin warn that wood with a higher moisture content (as is common with construction lumber and pressure-treated stock) can impair or even prevent the drying of PVAs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-03-22T10:03:47.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11635" CreationDate="2021-03-22T14:16:26.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to use TB 3 Ultimate to glue stacks of 4&amp;quot;x4&amp;quot;x8' together in a overlapping configuration to make a 12&amp;quot; tall garden bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do you want to use Titebond 3? It's waterproof and all, but it doesn't fill the gaps that are sure to happen with rough lumber like typical 4x4&amp;quot; stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd be far better off with construction adhesive. Better than that would be to put the parts in position, drill holes through the stack, and drive a length of rebar through the holes and into the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2021-03-22T14:16:26.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11640" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-22T17:37:55.137" Score="0" ViewCount="2001" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a cabinet and using cane webbing in the doors. I need to adhere the webbing to a stained ply for the backing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't seem to find an answer on what to use for glue. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10078" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-03-23T12:23:59.553" LastActivityDate="2021-04-07T12:51:34.250" Title="Attaching caned webbing to cabinet doors" Tags="|glue|cabinetry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11642" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-23T01:40:50.273" Score="0" ViewCount="355" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to design a cabinet with three sections of two drawers. I want the cabinet to be three carcasses and a face frame so I can build it in one location and install it in another. Here's a drawing from SketchUp to show you what I mean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cfPxu.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cfPxu.png&quot; alt=&quot;triple cabinet design&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got the three boxes with the same external width and the face frame with three identical openings. But there's this &lt;strong&gt;uneven overhang&lt;/strong&gt; on the inside of the cabinet and the two middle stiles don't align with the edges of the middle box! Based on the undermount drawer slides I plan on using, I don't think this difference is critically important, but it does &lt;em&gt;look odd&lt;/em&gt; in the drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the right way to build this? Is that overlap ok? Is this something I might regret as I put this together? I could make the middle box smaller (and have sketched that up already) but that complicates the cuts and measurements and I'd like this to be fairly straightforward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10079" LastActivityDate="2021-03-28T14:28:30.837" Title="How do I design a cabinet with even boxes and even face frames?" Tags="|design|cabinetry|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11642" CreationDate="2021-03-23T20:35:14.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issue is that all your vertical stiles are the same thickness but you are aligning them in different locations in relation to the side walls of the sections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest aligning all the sidewalls equally on the face frame.&#xA;So if you have a 2&amp;quot; wide stile and the side walls are 5/8&amp;quot; thick then you would have a 3/8&amp;quot; gap from inside face of sidewall to the inside edge of stiles where there are two cabinet sections abutting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the two ends on the outside face there will be a 1&amp;quot; gap from side wall face to outside of face frame. If this is a visible face you can just add another finish sheet and blocking to reduce this gap of if you will be securing to a wall you can just use blocking to fill the gap where you are securing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uB5Ks.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cabinet layout&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9887" LastEditorUserId="9887" LastEditDate="2021-03-23T20:52:56.713" LastActivityDate="2021-03-23T20:52:56.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11642" CreationDate="2021-03-24T08:45:11.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you break this down into a design-requirements problem — the face frame is THE fixed element, and in your case so is the requirement for what's behind it to be three separate cabinets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is really about how to reconcile the two things, avoid the issue you're facing. The best option I see available is narrowing the centre cabinet. It's a simple and direct solution, still bread-and-butter stuff that adds no real complication — you cut two panel bottoms one size, one panel bottom a different size (the alteration being equivalent to the thickness of your board material in both cases).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only hard part is getting used to the idea since it's a change to what you &lt;em&gt;expected&lt;/em&gt; to do but as the saying goes, 'no plan survives contact with the enemy'. Take it as a valuable learning experience, that initial plans often need to be revised when problems crop up.... such as one's mental picture of something not matching up with the three-dimensional reality of it. Believe me, this is not uncommon! :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-03-24T08:45:11.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11646" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11647" CreationDate="2021-03-25T09:53:36.273" Score="0" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a design for my own plow/rabbet plane with a steel skate, because I like a challenge. The fence will be wood. The skate and fence will slide on a pair of steel rods (which I can order on ebay), but I need some sort of steel through-hole fastener, ideally one that is tightenable. What should I use for this purpose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, the Veritas plough plane has these fasteners:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SClOd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SClOd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;veritas fasteners&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;arms&amp;quot; tighten when the brass thumb screw goes onto the threads. In the Veritas case, the &amp;quot;through-hole&amp;quot; part is probably covered by a machined hole in the steel fence itself. In my case, I need a metal fastener with an unthreaded hole which I can epoxy into the wooden fence, checking for square before the glue sets. Ideally, it would also have a small threaded hole on the top for a thumb screw (for locking the rod into place). I could also drill that myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also happy for suggestions on other ways to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10105" LastActivityDate="2021-04-07T13:02:14.960" Title="Hardware for mounting a fence on a DIY rabbet/plow plane" Tags="|hardware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11646" CreationDate="2021-03-25T12:01:17.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Veritas plane uses a sort of split collar that gives the friction fit you want. There are plenty of designs for that out there. You just need to figure out how to attach them solidly to the base. (I'd recommend learning how to braze.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Stanley No. 45 uses a thumbscrew through the collar. Sort of a grub screw, but instead of a slot or hex head it offers a way to snug it with your fingers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out the usual suspects like McMaster-Carr for &amp;quot;split collars&amp;quot;. Or make your own (or find a local metalworking who can assist).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-04-07T13:02:14.960" LastActivityDate="2021-04-07T13:02:14.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11640" CreationDate="2021-03-25T12:29:19.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you able to hide any part of the webbing on the edges? If so, I'd just use staples around the perimeter of the webbing. If the entire webbing is meant to be visible, this obviously is not an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen people use Gorilla Contact Adhesive to use cane webbing over both wood and glass in situations where the entire webbing needs to be visible. It's especially important to get the clear glue because you don't want it to be the glue to be visible when it dries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ed9MF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ed9MF.png&quot; alt=&quot;Gorilla Glue Clear&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me know what you decide to do! I have a cane webbing project I'm going to do in a few weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10030" LastEditorUserId="10030" LastEditDate="2021-04-07T12:51:34.250" LastActivityDate="2021-04-07T12:51:34.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9694" CreationDate="2021-03-25T12:46:44.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on personal style choice. A big reason to seal and finish the frame was addressed by another poster: expanding and contracting. As wood absorbs moisture and releases moisture, that most gets out through the ends of the wood, which is why a lot of people use &amp;quot;end seal&amp;quot; to make sure their wood doesn't crack. You can use a polycrylic or something wax based to stop that from ahppening. I made the mistake of not sealing a natural wood coffee table I made last year, and now there is a 1/2&amp;quot; gap in between the last board and the border of the table. The wood contracted and pulled together, so there is a big gap on one side. Here is a picture of what the table looked like before the gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vUELr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vUELr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Natural Wood Coffee Table&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I prefer the water-based polyurethane seal because I like shiny-looking furniture. If you don't like a glossy look, you can always use Teak Oil to preserve it with a natural finish. That is what I used on the legs on the above coffee table to keep them looking natural. Let me know what you decide to go with! I'm building bunk beds this summer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10030" LastActivityDate="2021-03-25T12:46:44.093" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11634" CreationDate="2021-03-26T09:35:51.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are specific situations where solid-wood wooden panels are installed to allow expansion and contraction to occur outwards from one edge. This is chiefly used for tabletops that will be positioned against a wall, like the classic demilune (see image in previous Answer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/908/what-general-considerations-do-i-need-to-take-into-account-for-wood-movement/910#910&quot;&gt;What general considerations do I need to take into account for wood movement?&lt;/a&gt;). While in principle this same thing could be adopted for a floating door panel the convention is to centre them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, since you're using plywood for your panels movement is basically a non-issue. Ply panels can, and often are, sized to be a tight sliding fit into the grooves of the frame (or box sides) that they are mounted in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-03-26T09:35:51.330" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11652" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-27T00:08:50.507" Score="1" ViewCount="1076" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on building a desk soon and I am going to make the top of it out of 1x6 planks that I am going to join together. Would poplar or alder be strong enough for a lot of writing with something like a poly finish or maybe an epoxy top? My other option would be spending more and get some red oak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want the top to look nice too I don't just want cheap wood that won't look good stained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was going to get the wood form a local Lowes or Home Depot so I'm kind of limited to oak, spruce, pine, fir, alder and poplar but I know there are some local lumber yards that I could shop at too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10102" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2021-04-16T17:53:07.177" LastActivityDate="2021-04-16T17:53:07.177" Title="Would poplar or alder be good for a desk?" Tags="|wood|furniture|wood-selection|tabletop|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12652" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12653" CreationDate="2021-03-27T19:03:04.783" Score="2" ViewCount="269" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pole in this image holds up a regular mail box. You can see where the 4 screw holes are. This pole is cemented into the ground and has been untreated for over 10 years. This is in Phoenix Arizona so hot and dry most of the time. I've given this pole a heavy drenching of boiled linseed oil and will leave that to soak in for a couple of days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I EASILY repair and reinforce those holes and cracks in the wood? I was thinking of using a syringe and injecting wood glue into the holes and cracks and then clamping the brace in place after reattaching. I also thought of spraying Gorilla Glue in there because the blast of the spray would penetrate deep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that there are other solutions like rebuilding with wood. I wanted to keep this one simple and specific and try and work out a good solution that will make those holes reusable in those positions without moving where the mail box brace goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/978mG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/978mG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;pole&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4559" LastActivityDate="2021-03-27T22:44:10.767" Title="Screws back into a splitting pole" Tags="|wood-repair|screws|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12652" CreationDate="2021-03-27T22:44:10.767" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Frankly, that post looks like it has served its days. I would replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, to try and extend its life, I think the simplest solution would be to drill out the existing holes, glue in dowels and re-drill to accept the screws. Use an exterior grade wood glue (such as Titebond III) or even construction adhesive (like Liquid Nails or PL-Premium). Note that the holes for the dowels don't have to be particularly accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would caution that your application of BLO might prevent a good glue bond for any repairs. You might have to wait several weeks for the BLO to fully cure before glue will adhere to the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative solution that doesn't require gluing or reinforcing the existing holes is moving from screws to through bolts of similar diameter. Simply drill the existing holes all the way through. Don't forget to use large washers on the wood side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2021-03-27T22:44:10.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12654" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12657" CreationDate="2021-03-28T13:08:18.577" Score="1" ViewCount="178" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a 210×65×3.8 cm oak countertop and attached metal legs to it to make a desk. It was unfinished, so I sanded it and applied 3 coats of shellac to the top and edges (with a light sanding after the second coat). Following &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4878/is-it-necessary-to-apply-finish-to-both-sides-of-a-table-top&quot;&gt;Is it necessary to apply finish to both sides of a table top?&lt;/a&gt;, I did not finish the bottom. I also did not fill the pores before applying shellac.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that a month or so has passed, I am noticing small cracks here and there along the pores. These cracks definitely were not there initially, and it seems that they appeared gradually over time. They exist on both sides, although it seems the bottom (unfinished) side has more of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some pictures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Top side&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nZo8M.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nZo8M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;top side 1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qMFha.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qMFha.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;top side 2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bottom side&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J1EGh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J1EGh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bottom side 1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sm5Ga.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sm5Ga.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bottom side 2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have I done anything wrong?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will my desk eventually crack and collapse?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can and should I do anything about this? (E.g. fill the cracks with glue, finish the underside.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Appreciate any help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10115" LastEditorUserId="10115" LastEditDate="2021-03-29T09:39:18.017" LastActivityDate="2021-03-29T16:19:56.600" Title="Oak edge-glued panel desk small cracks along the pores" Tags="|oak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11642" CreationDate="2021-03-28T14:28:30.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure if your cab is freestanding, butted up against one wall, or sandwiched between two walls. The strategy below applies mostly to a cabinet sandwiched between walls, but you can easily add a panel on one or both sides to correct the overlap at the outside stile(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given your existing face frame, let's say that the center of the stile to the center of the next stile is 30&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That means your center cab would be 30&amp;quot; wide to be balanced behind the face frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make all 3 of your cabs 30&amp;quot; wide. They'll all be balanced with respect to the face frame. They'll be universal to build. (No farging around with 2 different drawer/door/panel widths.) And -- and this is the best part -- you'll have room for wall/corner irregularities to pop the bank of cabs right into place and scribe the face frame gently to be an exact match to the adjacent walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2021-03-28T14:28:30.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12656" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-29T02:05:01.587" Score="1" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used MinWax Polyshades on new paneled pine doors resulting in a blotchy finish. Would it be better to apply a second coat, try a gel stain or a regular stain to improve looks? I have seen suggestions for all of those. Also, some say sand first and some say apply the conditioner that I should have used in the first place. Which is the better solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10118" LastActivityDate="2021-03-29T02:05:01.587" Title="Blotchy pine doors" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2022-01-19T14:52:07.547" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12654" CreationDate="2021-03-29T16:19:56.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have I done anything wrong?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not that I can see. The simple truth is that a commercial product made from kiln-dried wood should basically never exhibit cracks after it is installed in its final destination, &lt;em&gt;even if left for an extended period of time with no finish on it&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will my desk eventually crack and collapse?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt complete failure is possible with stave construction, but it's impossible to predict what's going to happen in the short and medium term.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll have to monitor and see if the problem progresses, or if the wood has settled down and done all the cracking it's going to. As mentioned in the Comments, I was going to suggest marking both the location &lt;em&gt;and the extent&lt;/em&gt; of all the cracks on the underside. That way you'll know for sure if A) new cracks form and B) if the existing cracks get longer. In either case alarm bells should sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some who would say you should enquire about returning this now. I would at least investigate the possibility, explaining to the vendor what has happened and see what they say; they should NOT tell you that a few small cracks (of this kind) are normal! They aren't. I've seen dozens and dozens of examples of this type of glued-up panel in beech and birch (hello Ikea) and in oak (other furniture, kitchen countertops) that have no post-finishing cracks that I could see. Ergo I don't think it's a matter of opinion that these are not normal or to be expected, and that more than a few pieces of the wood used in the construction were flawed in some way&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If more cracks appear and/or the existing cracks continue to grow then I think asking for a replacement or refund is definitely the right call.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can and should I do anything about this? (E.g. fill the cracks with glue, finish the underside.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming the wood is done cracking, you can probably safely live with any of the cracks that don't bother you, especially the ones on the underside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of these cracks appear superficial but even more major cracks in one or two of the staves should not be structurally significant because of the method of construction, where the affected pieces are surrounded by strong glue joints and other pieces that are stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you did want to fill the cracks on the top, you have various options but note that anything that involves glue will pretty much guarantee you'll need to refinish the top&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I won't cover the how-to aspect of filling but will quickly list all the fillers that I think are currently available:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wax filler — various kinds, softer types are basically like crayons but a better option for a working surface is one of the harder types that need to be melted in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shellac filler. These are much harder that almost all wax fillers, and also need to be melted in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glue + wood dust — the ideal glue for this &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; being PVA glues.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Superglue and sanding dust. I mention this separately because you don't normally mix the filler and then apply it because of the very fast setting time of superglue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shellac + wood dust. This takes a surprisingly long time to dry hard but can make for nearly invisible fills of fine cracks and gaps in joinery that will subsequently be finished in the same shellac.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Straight epoxy (high on my list as the best option).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Commercial wood fillers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;__&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Something that is actually extremely common in commercial kitchen installations for example, where the panel may arrive on site days at least before installation, and after the install the counters may sit unfinished for &lt;em&gt;weeks&lt;/em&gt;, and sometimes far longer. Also worth bearing in mind that the bulk of such installations are to houses where building is still in progress — with plaster still drying, and no heating.... so the short time you had it on your terrace should have zero bearing on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; I suspect improper drying — possibly left too wet (so the wood is now drying and shrinking), or dried too quickly (leading to defects). The last image in particular, those appear to be 'surface checks', which the textbooks tell us are a drying defect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Since you used shellac which is very repairable you might think you wouldn't need to do the whole top, and in theory small repairs can be done and seamlessly blended in. But it's best practice not to locally sand small areas of a large flat surface (because making shallow depressions are virtually inevitable). This will lead to a slight, but perceptible, waviness that you may be able to feel, but will surely be able to see in raking light or when light is reflected from the polished surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-03-29T16:19:56.600" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12658" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-29T20:15:59.487" Score="2" ViewCount="1261" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a rectangular frame that I want to keep from flattening into a parallelogram. The frame is 8' x 4' and the members are 4 7/8&amp;quot; high by 2 5/8&amp;quot; thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There isn't a particular load that will be pressing it into the shape per se, but I want to prevent this from happening through incidental forces, because this rectangular frame will have some load on its flat side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to avoid having to make corner to corner crossbars because the size of the rectangle makes it difficult to do this and I am also using wood joinery without screws or brackets. I have considered adding supports across each corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a better/cleaner way that does not involve any 45° miter of any kind? I feel like there must be something obvious I am missing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9955" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-03-31T00:16:42.523" LastActivityDate="2021-03-31T17:09:58.847" Title="Keep a rectangular frame from racking" Tags="|wood|joinery|technique|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12659" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-29T23:06:04.157" Score="0" ViewCount="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;the dresser was stained with oil based dark walnut,after it dried for days,applied oil based polyurethane,when dried seemed to have alot of small dimples or small bubbles,do i use fine steel wool or sandpaper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10123" LastActivityDate="2021-03-29T23:06:04.157" Title="how could you get rid of dimples in DRIED oil based polyurethane?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2021-04-04T01:43:34.980" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12658" CreationDate="2021-03-30T01:03:44.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The option of using cabling or cording of some sort is best presented with an image, curiously enough, to scale:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/03Pc3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/03Pc3.png&quot; alt=&quot;corded frame support&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blue lines are cord, passed through holes drilled at the intersections of the frame. One could get away with a single continuous piece, but unless it's secured to the frame, you'll still have undesirable flexibility in the frame. Additional lines could be run, the placement doesn't have to match the drawing. This is presented as an option in the comments discussion, but could be a solution within the restrictions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wire cable or non-stretchy cord would be stronger. Non-stretchy cord is also known as Spectra and sometimes UHMWPE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2021-03-30T01:03:44.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12663" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-30T11:39:12.363" Score="2" ViewCount="5491" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hey I've built the ikea desk attached in the video.&#xA;Basically it's SÄLJAN ADILS which is super affordable and it has 5 legs, 2 to the sides and 1 in the middle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've made sure it's leveled to the floor with rubber raisers but it's still wobbly.&#xA;People suggest mounting it into the wall but I don't really want to do that.&#xA;I've also read about adding x brackets to the sides or just 1 connecting the legs.&#xA;Is there an easy way to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are no simple solutions do you guys recommend any other legs from Ikea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a6GxI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a6GxI.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Appreciate any help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10127" LastActivityDate="2021-08-31T11:08:05.783" Title="How to I stop Ikea SÄLJAN ADILS desk from wobbling?" Tags="|joinery|technique|furniture|tabletop|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12658" CreationDate="2021-03-31T17:09:58.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, using a strong joint such as a half lap, or a mortise and tenon will be about as strong as if it were a single piece of wood.  Think gate construction.  Gates are different in that they have all the weight on one side, thus they need a diagonal brace to transfer some of the load.  If your frame is supported on both sides, and is made with quality, tight fitting joinery, I wouldn't expect any racking at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2021-03-31T17:09:58.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12665" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12666" CreationDate="2021-04-01T11:38:31.933" Score="2" ViewCount="378" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning a garden office where the roof is angled diagonally, so one corner will be lowest, the two adjacent corners will be mid-height, and the final corner will be the tallest.  The gradient of the roof will be in the range 1:10 to 1:12.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this to work, the rafters will need to have a bevel along the top.  This is so that the rafters, which will be 2x6 timber, can sit vertically on the frame, but accommodate the roof boards which will be at an angle.  They'll already have the right angle end-to-end because they'll be sitting on frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How could I cut a bevel along the length of the rafters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Options I've considered are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A track saw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A hand plane&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A band saw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a track saw and a hand plane, but I'm not sure if these are good options.  I have a router, but I can't figure out how I could use it to make a bevel.  I guess I could use a table saw, but I don't have one, and I'd prefer not to have to use one unless it is the only way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't managed to find any description where someone has already done this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10145" LastActivityDate="2021-04-01T12:22:54.197" Title="How to cut bevel lengthwise along rafter" Tags="|technique|router|cutting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12665" CreationDate="2021-04-01T12:22:54.197" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A table saw would be the easiest way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you don't have one, a track saw should manage fine. It's accurate and easy to setup (as opposed to a regular circular saw). My main concern would be if it can handle the cut in a single pass (both in terms of power and of avaialbe depth of cut). If it has enough depth of cut, doing in a shallow cut and then a deeper cut will work as long as you're careful not to move the track between cuts (clamp it if you can). If it doesn't, you'd need to make two opposing cuts that would be hard to align well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A hand plane can work, but would be a lot of work, especially if you have many boards to bevel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2021-04-01T12:22:54.197" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12667" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12669" CreationDate="2021-04-01T14:07:11.093" Score="1" ViewCount="256" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Project&lt;/strong&gt;: Bed frame from hard wood (still deciding between cherry, oak, walnut, ash, beech)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question&lt;/strong&gt;: What is a good method to face joint a board (approximately 15 cm / 6” wide) by hand with a shorter bench (1.5 m / 6 ft)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tools&lt;/strong&gt;: 16 cm resaw capacity bandsaw, no. 7 jointer plane, no. 4 smoother, plunge track saw, regular handsaws and chisels, Bosch 1600 router&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Notes&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don’t see edge jointing as a limitation; just face jointing seems difficult for boards longer than my bench.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don’t have a machine jointer nor thicknesser.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don’t think that a router sled for such a narrow board is needed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Proposed solutions&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Joint the board in sections and iterate through Left, middle, right side until reasonable jointed, but there is a risk that each section is not parallel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Construct a sort of table extension, but I am concerned that the drop in support near the table ends will cause slight issues. I have seen this with small items like Kumiko and even a think shaving under the strip.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9252" LastActivityDate="2021-04-01T15:49:35.273" Title="How to face joint board longer than bench by hand" Tags="|hand-tools|workbench|hand-planing|jointer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8264" CreationDate="2021-04-01T14:22:10.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alternative recommendation for smoothing without the need for planing stop: a cabinet scraper (card scraper)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other answers look to the work holding issue very well, and can definitely be used with a smoother plane. However, if you are only looking to smoothen, then I recommend an alternative to the plane: a trusty cabinet scraper. Since it is easier to position the scraper, you could clamp the plywood on the face to your bench and avoid the horizontal clamping and dogs. Then move your clamp and scrape the previously clamped area. Et voila!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia page: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Card_scraper&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Card_scraper&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9252" LastActivityDate="2021-04-01T14:22:10.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12667" CreationDate="2021-04-01T15:49:35.273" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Joint the board in sections and iterate through Left, middle, right side until reasonable jointed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but there is a risk that each section is not parallel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check often, adjust as necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is basically similar to the problem of how you face anything that is &lt;em&gt;wider&lt;/em&gt; than the plane (a somewhat-common occurrence LOL). Because shavings can be on the order of a couple of thousandths and less each (0.04-0.025mm), any resulting discrepancies that need to be addressed are very, very small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which leads on to the next point, that the jointer plane is never the last tool to touch the face of a board..... and in fact, unless you're a planing expert your smoothing plane won't be either! So there's plenty of scope for adjustment and refinement as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, since you'll be smooth-planing, scraping and/or sanding anyway expect to complete the work with one or more of those steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One further tip, &lt;em&gt;don't bother jointing the non-show surfaces&lt;/em&gt;. Or at least don't complete the work. This will basically cut the task in half.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In these days of machine processing of stock and powered sanding a dirty secret of woodworking from the days of all handwork has become lost — many pieces only looked perfect from the outside. But peek underneath or behind and you could find that table aprons aren't all uniform thicknesses, the backs of dressers/chests of drawers were not finished equally with the rest of the piece (sometimes left rough from the saw as shocking as this seems to modern sensibilities).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-04-01T15:49:35.273" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12671" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-02T23:28:23.943" Score="0" ViewCount="67" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I built the treehouse with plans from a book and after about eight years one of the support beams is bent and some of the joins have come apart. The plans called for using nails but like adumbass I used screws. It was fine until last year when I noticed this after a storm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can do two things. 1) get another 2x6 and put it on top of the existing support and bolt the angled support to it. Basically jack up the sagging side and double up existing support structure or 2) create another triangle support inside the existing one attached to the tree instead of the existing support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a bunch of pictures to illustrate the problem. Any advice? I’m not opposed to taking the top off and just making it a deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks much!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TQyuV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TQyuV.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10155" LastActivityDate="2021-04-02T23:28:23.943" Title="How to re-do the treehouse support which is failing" Tags="|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12672" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-02T23:29:37.083" Score="0" ViewCount="114" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cantilever support leg is 2 X 10'' fir/spruce attached to underside of coffee table on cleat mounting blocks. The lower part of the leg is to be flanged secured to the flat base at bottom on one end. The flat panel hardwoo base is 18'' X 20'' and is only &lt;strong&gt;3/4''&lt;/strong&gt; thick&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10156" LastActivityDate="2021-04-02T23:29:37.083" Title="What is the best joinery method for a cantilever leg support to secure a 2X10'' wood leg to a 3/4''18''X20'' wood flat base end" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11652" CreationDate="2021-04-02T23:29:51.120" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can build a desk out of most any wood if you design it well.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;A desk is more than just the top. Spend some time thinking about and drawing pictures of your desk to make sure it will fit your need and not be wobbly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Poplar and alder have been used successfully to make desks.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Here is an example of a desk made of poplar&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ADDk7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ADDk7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They both take stain well and can be made to look very nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are right to worry about scratching and denting. Both woods are very soft. They will dent and scratch easily. Unfinished poplar can be scratched with a fingernail. My personal rule is - always build things I care about out of something about as hard as oak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a single sheet of paper writing with a ball point pen on poplar with a poly or epoxy finish I'd be nervous. Best to have a nice desk pad or glass top for writing on any wood table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6222" LastActivityDate="2021-04-02T23:29:51.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12663" CreationDate="2021-04-03T09:27:20.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If drilling holes in the wall is a permanent or insurmountable objection, here is what I would do after thinking about this for a bit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You need masking tape, superglue (cyanoacrylate or CA glue), and some small strips of thin wood. You'll be using the &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2752/how-do-i-temporarily-attach-two-pieces-of-wood-together-for-machining/2757#2757&quot;&gt;superglue-and-tape trick&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Apply tape to the wall at the height of the tabletop where the strips of wood will go. Two or three pieces of wood, spaced along the long edge of the table, should be sufficient. Each one only needs to be a few inches long (about 10cm) and the wood can be quite thin&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Apply masking tape to both sides of the strips. Apply masking tape to the relevant positions on the tabletop's rear edge. Burnish the tape down well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Add strings of glue to the tape on the wall and glue the strips into position. After a minute or two do the same on the front of the wood strips, then push the table backwards into them and press hard for a few moments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that's it, you're done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your table should be completely stable after this without any holes having to be drilled and without having to futz around trying to figure out and then implement any bracing options that legs of this type make difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to being easily reversible, this is also an inexpensive solution&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; especially if you use dollar-store superglue, which is perfectly sufficient for this purpose. Ditto the masking tape. If you're in the US or Canada I understand that stirring sticks can be free in many places&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;. So total cost here is perhaps five bucks :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; If it would allow enough space for your cabling stirring sticks from the hardware store/big box would do fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; I was initially going to recommend using Command Strips to attach the wood to the wall until I checked their price o_O&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; If not raid a dumpster outside a construction site or home reno for a few pieces of discarded furring strips; I'm not even kidding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-04-03T09:27:20.587" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12677" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-03T09:27:35.693" Score="2" ViewCount="646" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm an absolute beginner to woodworking, so apologies if my terminology is wrong/inconsistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been making a dice holder box, and have gone onto the sanding procedure. Using sanding paper with a grit range of 80/150/250/400, I've been smoothing the edges of the box. It's been taking a long while, which makes this issue a bit frustrating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s1yao.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s1yao.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aIjcy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aIjcy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1MsAz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1MsAz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried blowing, washing and more sanding in an effort to get rid of these marks - but I'm worried I might worsen the problem. Could anyone please give some advice? Many thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10161" LastActivityDate="2021-04-04T13:12:33.240" Title="Sanding residue - how best to remove?" Tags="|sanding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12678" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-03T14:04:48.300" Score="1" ViewCount="37" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have resurfaced my 2nd oak floor and removed all dust but a sample stays far too dark compared to the 1st oak floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems nothing will retain the pastel white oak shade on the 2nd floor as much as the 1st floor using a gloss water-based Varathane finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I noticed after ripping out carpets and removing some damaged 1x5” parquet oak sections on the 1sr floor was the replacement was solid oak while the 1st floor was veneer over hardwood, same dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Observations&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 2nd floor was like a teak colour gloss under carpet before stripping while the 1st was a typical yellow on white oak done at least 10 yrs ago.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Half of the 1st floor had to be redone completely because of a &lt;strong&gt;difference in clear colour shade.&lt;/strong&gt; (Each level is done in 2 sections to allow furniture move)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1st attempt used hybrid oil-water based clear gloss with a 6mm roller 3 coats with sanding&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It was a noticeably darker tan than the 2nd section which was push broom applied nano Varathane clear gloss (with Si O2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;So the 1st section was re-drum-sanded and redone to match the 2nd section on 1st floor but after replace a few damaged Parquet pieces of 1x5” oak, I noticed the replacement pc. was solid oak but after I glued and coated it matched pretty well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 2nd floor is also parquet but solid and obvious a different solid oak vs.  as it turned dark&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The process used now is drum sand with grits : 29, 60 , 120 then random orbital sand 120 grit extra smooth, then vacuum and moist mop cleaned.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So my dilemma is what must be done to keep the clear coat gloss look more like the dry oak ( just slightly more) and match down stairs floor.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main floor completed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cSYNN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cSYNN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 2nd floor below was initially a darker orange than 1st floor (yellow) before drum sanding but after sanding is the same shade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspected later it was due to solid vs veneer oak on 1st.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2nd floor below after carpet stripped and some edges sanded&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T4bKi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T4bKi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6YHCC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6YHCC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It’s difficult to show accurate colour with different lighting but assume the differences are greater than what it may appear.( Above)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10159" LastActivityDate="2021-04-03T14:04:48.300" Title="OAK Colour too dark on refinished clear aqua-Varithane gloss, 2nd vs 1st floor mismatch" Tags="|finish-selection|coloring|oak|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12677" CreationDate="2021-04-04T13:12:33.240" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As clarified in the Comments, some of the abrasive used was silicon carbide paper (wet 'n' dry). The abrasive grains on this kind of paper fracture during use&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, releasing a very fine grey/black dust. On the hard materials wet 'n' dry paper is suited to&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; this dark residue isn't a problem, but obviously on wood it can become lodged in the surface. On some softer or more open-textured woods the dark staining can be much worse than this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try to scrub it from scratches or divots in the wood surface using a very stiff brush like a toothbrush, or even a fine wire brush, but my experience has been this is almost never 100% effective. And on end grain it simply doesn't work. So unfortunately the only effective way to deal with this is to remove the affected wood; file, scrape or sand until you've gone deep enough that the stains are gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're faced with such a task on a well-sanded piece like this almost everyone doing it by sanding is tempted to stick with a finer grit, to avoid creating deeper scratches again. But this is a false time economy — you spend more time sanding at higher grits than you would starting with a coarser grit (which removes material so much faster) and then working through your progression of grits to successively remove each previous stage's sanding scratches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Which is as intended, fracturing reveals fresh sharp edges on the grit particles which continue to cut well as the paper wears, in contrast to aluminium oxide abrasives which tend to round off during use and progressively slow&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Which includes hard finishes used in woodworking (including shellac, varnish and lacquers) when aiming for a very flat surface and/or working towards a super high gloss or 'piano finish'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-04-04T13:12:33.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11571" CreationDate="2021-04-04T20:41:33.607" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend using a miter spline joint.  There few 2 orientations to accomplish different looks. A quick Google image search will show you the final look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the gaps, they are not big thus wood filler and sanding will fix it.  But if you really want perfect corners, I would recommend building a sled for your table saw.  That is the most accurate way to cut a 45 angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9031" LastActivityDate="2021-04-04T20:41:33.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12683" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12695" CreationDate="2021-04-05T08:09:51.503" Score="0" ViewCount="190" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some images of a dining table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The table has four legs at the corners. I like the joint of the leg to the table and would like some tips on how this can be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kYFNF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kYFNF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;corner of the table&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JbQ4L.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JbQ4L.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image from under the table&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yNHkG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yNHkG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;close up exploded view&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1563" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-04-08T06:20:00.317" LastActivityDate="2021-04-08T06:20:00.317" Title="Advice on table joinery" Tags="|joinery|table-making|joints|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12684" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12688" CreationDate="2021-04-05T12:51:58.910" Score="3" ViewCount="2247" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my first woodworking project, I am building a bench with some found wood. I've cleaned up the wood and cut it down to size. Here is a photo of the pieces roughly in place. I plan to attach the smaller piece on the ground to the legs, near the bottom, as additional support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question: what are some good ways to attach the bench top to the legs? The wood is roughly 2.5&amp;quot; thick. I could obviously just find big screws (or nails?) and come in from the top, but it would be nice if the bench seat had no marks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy to hear any other comments or feedback on this. After putting everything together, I plan to hit it with a sander one more time and then apply some finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HHwbp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HHwbp.png&quot; alt=&quot;bench design with cut pieces placed together but not attached&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8772" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-04-05T15:24:51.347" LastActivityDate="2021-04-09T11:51:43.250" Title="How to attach 2.5&quot; bench top to legs" Tags="|design|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12684" CreationDate="2021-04-05T15:02:28.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several options.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;L brackets and dowel joints are two of several ways to approach your challenge.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Just looking at what you have side to side wobble will be a challenge. Squares tend to be less rigid than triangles and bracing will be important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;L Brackets - a hardware based solution&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;When someone says &amp;quot;L bracket&amp;quot; something like this usually jumps to mind.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AqK8f.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AqK8f.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This type will probably allow side to side wobble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are different types of L brackets.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;A bracket like this one will help reduce side to side wobble.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f4f7J.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f4f7J.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You'd have to determine if one or two brackets per side would work best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An L bracket like this one would show on the sides.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mCM4T.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mCM4T.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;But, painted black it might offer an industrial look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A shelf bracket is a type of L bracket that might meet your need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dowel Joint&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Drilling matching holes in both sides and using a dowel (a large ones in your case) is another way to connect wood without showing the connectors.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IXPYV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IXPYV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You application may require some bracing to prevent side to side wobble along with the dowels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6222" LastActivityDate="2021-04-05T15:02:28.583" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11599" CreationDate="2021-04-05T15:54:36.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you're describing is a medium sized solid wood panel that is likely to be &amp;quot;cupping&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TFDjd.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TFDjd.png&quot; alt=&quot;A &amp;quot;Cupped&amp;quot; board&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a phenomenon that happens with &lt;em&gt;solid&lt;/em&gt; wood boards/panels so &lt;strong&gt;the most practical solution for a beginner would probably be to use a different material&lt;/strong&gt; - such as plywood or MDF. These engineered materials will be perfectly flat from the factory, and are not subject to the wood movement forces that a solid board or panel would be subject to. A nice hardwood plywood with edge banding that you add could still look nice for your board gaming application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if you want to salvage your existing panel? You're going to have to constrain the cupping while still allowing for seasonal wood movement. There are many approaches to doing this but I will outline just 2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use metal c channel or angle to constrain wood movement on the bottom, or on the sides.&lt;/strong&gt; A flat strip of metal on the bottom will not resist the cupping action of the panel. Fasten the metal channel/angle to the sides or bottom of the panel using screws &lt;em&gt;in slotted holes to allow for wood movement&lt;/em&gt;. To see if the metal you have selected is strong enough for the task, try clamping your cupped panel to metal channel and see if the panel flattens out. If the metal is too weak, you'll notice the metal bending and the wood remaining cupped. See, for example, this large drafting table top kept flat in part by the metal channel on the sides:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HuOgm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HuOgm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Backside of a drafting table&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Make breadboard ends for the panel.&lt;/strong&gt; This is a fairly advanced woodworking technique for keeping solid wood panels flat on tabletops or, originally, breadboards! Ultimately, the goal here is the same as with the metal - use a cross-grain support to constrain the cupping, while still allowing for seasonal expansion/contraction of the panel. There is a plethora of breadboard end information out there - you just need to know the term.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BewPU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BewPU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Exploded view of breadboard end joinery&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary - the easiest solution for a consistently flat wood panel is to use an engineered wood material like plywood or MDF. If you want to use the panel you already have, you may be able to contain the cupping with some strategically placed, cross-grain c channel. For those looking to tackle a more traditional/advanced woodworking solution to the problem - this is a case for breadboard ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10166" LastActivityDate="2021-04-05T15:54:36.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12684" CreationDate="2021-04-05T15:57:46.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like David's advice above. Another easy way to do it is with pocket-hole screws from the bottom and glue on the bottom face of the board and end grain of the legs. Pocket-hole screws aren't great for joining table tops because of how much the wood expands and contracts, but they can be ideal for adding quick strength to a joint for a bench. Here is a link to one of the Kreg jigs for pocket holes. You can get it just about anywhere (HD, Lowe's, Amazon, etc...): &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B001DYFISG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-K4-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B001DYFISG&lt;/a&gt; . I included an image below just in case that link expires eventually.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/weSFc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/weSFc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Kreg K4 Jig&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10030" LastEditorUserId="10030" LastEditDate="2021-04-09T11:51:43.250" LastActivityDate="2021-04-09T11:51:43.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12684" CreationDate="2021-04-05T17:13:54.877" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the thickness of your material, and that you would prefer to have no visible fixings, I would go with dowels here. What you'll be doing are &lt;em&gt;dowel-reinforced butt joints&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dowel joints have their detractors, and are seen by even some seasoned woodworkers as little better than the basic long grain | end grain butt joint you start with, but in reality they are far better than this&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this is seating and you want to make sure it's as secure as possible it would be best err on the side of greater strength so some details are important. And as you're a first-time woodworker I'll assume you know nothing about dowel joints so I'll try to cover all the bases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use many smaller-diameter dowels (e.g. five or seven) or fewer very stout ones (three); these two options are probably close enough in strength that there's no real need to prefer one over the other. So you can pick based on dowel availability, because you already own a given size of drill bit, or simple preference.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Size&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; the end-grain top edge of the leg prior to final glueing. Wait for the sizing to dry before continuing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The dowels can be housed equally into both pieces here, or deeper in the legs than the seat. But as you have plenty of thickness to play around with in your material and 1 1/2&amp;quot; penetration is more than adequate you might as well go for holes of this depth in both.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your dowels should be cut to slightly shorter than the combined depth of both holes, so if you go with the above suggestion cut your dowels to roughly 2 3/4&amp;quot;. This leaves room at each end for excess glue to accumulate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chamfer both ends of every dowel, as this helps ease assembly. You can do this by sanding, paring with a sharp knife or chisel, and even using a pencil sharpener if the dowels are skinny enough!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use hardwood dowel if possible. Softwood dowelling is probably sufficient to be perfectly honest because there are so many dowels here, but if hardwood dowel is available use it; species isn't vital, but oak or maple would be much stronger than poplar if those happen to be the options available locally locally.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3841/how-can-i-flute-my-own-dowel-or-create-dowel-with-similar-properties/3851#3851&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt; if you want to groove your dowel to prevent a 'hydraulic lock'.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Lightly&lt;/em&gt; sand the dowels before glueing in for &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4151/what-do-i-need-to-do-to-prepare-wood-for-gluing/4159#4159&quot;&gt;this reason&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You must ensure you position and drill the corresponding holes with care (both in terms of position and squareness). It's very useful to have a second person to help sight your drilling from 90° to your position; you can monitor tilt left or right, they take care of watching for any lean in the other axis.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lightly chamfer the edges of all the holes. This gives further space for excess glue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both of the commonest woodworking glues, PVA (both yellow or white &amp;quot;carpenter's glue&amp;quot;) and foaming polyurethane glue (e.g. the original Gorilla Glue), have essentially no gap-filling properties. If, despite taking care, you end up with a sloppy fit&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; it would be best to glue this together using epoxy as this has excellent gap-filling properties. Cheap dollar-store 5-min epoxy is typically more than adequate, as long as you can work fast enough.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There's a lot to apply glue to here. It's OK to glue this together in stages — glue the dowels into one leg at a time (mix two separate batches of glue if using epoxy), wait for them to set and then glue the legs to the seat. You can use the seat, dry fitted, to ensure the dowels end up aligned correctly. Be sure to mark each end of the seat and the corresponding leg with small pieces of tape so you don't try to swap them during the last glue-up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Even if individual holes are an easy fit you may still need a hammer and a protective scrap of soft wood to get all the dowels on each leg fully seated into their respective set of holes. We're not talking gentle taps, wail on the hammer if you need to!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Various destructive tests have proven this joint again and again, it is at least comparable to the venerable mortise-and-tenon joint, see Dowelmax test &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WoOEwEuB1ag&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, and can sometimes comfortably &lt;em&gt;exceeds&lt;/em&gt; its strength, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/get-more/how-strong-dowel-joint&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;see here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Sizing is pre-treating the end grain with glue to limit over-absorption of the fixing glue once that is applied. You can dilute the glue slightly for this (as was traditional) or use it full strength if you rub it in well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; This can be due to factors beyond your control, such as a drill bit and dowelling that are nominally the same size not actually being the same diameter. It's very common for commercial dowelling to be a little over- or undersize, and sometimes for it to not be round (due to differential shrinkage after production).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-04-05T17:13:54.877" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12689" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-05T22:56:25.873" Score="1" ViewCount="407" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I understand it, the accepted method for killing powder post beetles is bringing the temperature of the kiln above 130deg for at least 6 hours. Would a vacuum kiln that pulls 29.5&amp;quot; wc and then gets heated to 80deg also kill powder post beetles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10167" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-04-08T16:56:20.080" LastActivityDate="2021-09-05T18:00:15.027" Title="Does a vacuum kiln kill powder post beetles?" Tags="|wood-drying|insects|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12691" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-07T04:33:03.430" Score="1" ViewCount="70" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't imagine that someone hasn't built this before, but I can't find anything online resembling what I want to tackle. So I'm coming here for help. Sorry if this is a really basic build and doesn't belong here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Idea: I want to take a standard 3 drawer dresser and make an open storage compartment to hide a laundry basket with a hinged door made of the disassembled drawer fronts. Here is the plan I have so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;remove the drawer slide components from inside the main compartment of the dresser body&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;detach the face/front of the drawers from the drawers themselves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;attach all 3 drawer faces to each other as one panel (with some form of reinforcements on the inside)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attach this drawer face panel to the body of the open dresser as a &amp;quot;door.&amp;quot; (Like a kitchen cabinet door, but with dresser drawer fronts.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;open and close drawer face panel as a door to access laundry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions/things I am nervous about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you think this is even possible, or did I just dream this up and it won't work?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What type of hinges would I'd need for the door to stay supported from one side? I am worried about the weight of this drawer face &amp;quot;door.&amp;quot; The dresser is solid wood, like 50 years old, so the drawer fronts are real wood and heavy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this something I could do on my own, with limited skills, but with access to the needed tools?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance! Will try to attach the photo I drew up with my idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fO6SG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fO6SG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;mydrawing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CFAex.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CFAex.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;openeddresser&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JPPo2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JPPo2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fulldresser&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10192" LastEditorUserId="10192" LastEditDate="2021-04-16T23:26:13.347" LastActivityDate="2021-04-17T06:05:43.130" Title="Dresser Conversion I can't find plans for" Tags="|hinges|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12692" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-07T15:18:34.583" Score="0" ViewCount="100" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for helping me with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a cheap vanity for my apartment. The front is pretty enough, but the exposed side is hideous. It looks really fake because it is. It's particle board with some thin piece of &amp;quot;wood look&amp;quot; (eye roll) film on it. It's smooth with no texture at all. I'd like to cover it with stained, 1/4&amp;quot; poplar (2&amp;quot;x24&amp;quot; pieces from Lowes). I'm not sure which glue to use or how to prepare the surface.. Also, it'll be in a bathroom. What do I need to consider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10201" LastActivityDate="2021-04-08T16:24:12.460" Title="Can I glue 1/4&quot; poplar to the side of a crappy vanity (particle board with a hideous fake wood something on it)? If so, what glue?" Tags="|glue|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12692" CreationDate="2021-04-07T17:54:13.637" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to post a photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the &amp;quot;wood&amp;quot; veneer is some sort of PVC plastic, then many typical woodworking glues will not adhere well. Depending on how well it is bonded with the material underneath, you also run the risk of it separating from that with the extra mass on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this seems to be one of those cases where the hassle of contact cement is warranted. Getting the positioning right will be the trick. I've used pins, or &amp;quot;hinges&amp;quot; of painter's tape to help with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, a cheap and cheerful solution might be builder's construction adhesive, often sold in large tubes for use in caulking &amp;quot;guns&amp;quot;. You have bit more time to position things before it sets. But once it sets, it is 100% permanent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see you are using 2-inch dimension lumber cut to length, so applying those in succession would be easier. You just have to make sure you keep the rows tight and square. Make sure you allow for wood expansion across the grain. That is, don't glue them super-tight against each-other. You aren't really making a panel, but &amp;quot;decking&amp;quot; a surface by adhering material to a substrate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dry-fit first! Nothing in life is perfectly square, especially factory furniture. You are going to shape some of the pieces to fit nicely and look square, and offer variable relief between pieces, or you'll find everything leaning toward one corner or another by the time you are at the opposite edge. I recommend using a few small shims between the pieces, as you would for decking. (Remove the shims once the pieces are in place, and move them to the new edge.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A dry-fit may also allow you to mark the ends out on the bottom and top with painters tape, so you just assemble things in order to get the best look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, the glued side will not have any finish on it, but for contact cement or construction adhesive this is less of a concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surface prep will be up to the adhesive you use, so read the label.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-04-08T16:24:12.460" LastActivityDate="2021-04-08T16:24:12.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12694" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12700" CreationDate="2021-04-07T20:24:46.027" Score="0" ViewCount="821" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m planning out a build for a cedar 2-person soaker hot tub. Instead of using the traditional design of 1-in cedar boards, done barrel style, I’m thinking of using 1/4 in cedar paneling (oriented vertically), either tongue and groove, or shiplap, supported by an internal plywood frame. I’d fill the interior space of the frame with spray foam insulation, and then finish with an exterior of more cedar paneling.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J0QCs.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J0QCs.png&quot; alt=&quot;hot tub sketch&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I’m concerned about the possibility of the 1/4 in cedar being thin enough that water can penetrate through the boards and emerge into the interior insulation space. To counter this, I’m looking for an effective way to seal the boards to prevent water penetration. I’m not looking for a “finish” per se, especially because I don’t want something that would ultimately flake off after several months of immersion in hot chlorinated water, just something that would seal the pores of the wood and prevent water penetration. Also of note, I plan to use silicone caulk in the joints in the cedar, so I’m not concerned about traditional barrel construction where the water-activated expansion of the wood provides some of the sealing pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some ideas I’ve been kicking around:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Water-based polyurethane varnish applied to the void-space, insulation side of the cedar.&#xA;In my experience, water-based varnish (at least matte finish) doesn’t seem to leave a surface coat, but feels like it penetrates and just seals the wood. I’m thinking of applying to the dry-side of the boards in the hope that it would provide a barrier, without being exposed to constant hot water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Thinned water-based polyurethane.&#xA;Similar idea as above, but I’m wondering about thinning the varnish out 2-3x and heavily soaking the boards, both sides, under the idea that a thin varnish would mostly penetrate deeply into the board. I’m not certain how well this would hold up submerged though, and whether it would just cook off after some time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Thinned spar urethane.&#xA;Similar idea to 1 or 2, but using a product that is designed for exteriors, and thinning with oil-based thinner&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sanding sealer.&#xA;As I understand it, sanding sealer is designed to penetrate into a board and pre-seal it before a finish is applied. Maybe that would work for me here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Oil or wax treatments.&#xA;Maybe… though I’m a bit concerned with having an oily film on the top of my hot tub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Epoxy.&#xA;Probably too obnoxious and expensive for my project. I’m trying to stay under $300-$400, and painting on a 2-part seems like more than I’m shooting for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;???&#xA;Any other suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10205" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-04-10T07:46:38.650" LastActivityDate="2021-04-10T07:46:38.650" Title="Finish for thin-skin cedar hot tub to resist water penetration" Tags="|finishing|water-protection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12683" CreationDate="2021-04-08T06:19:22.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;would like some tips on how this can be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I mention above in the Comments, this is a typical joint in Chinese furniture (and I think in other Asian furniture traditions as well, although I don't know how they do the joinery). However, as I indicated if this is a Western piece it could be done in any number of ways and the added photo of the underside seems to show that this is the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The joinery&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This is a &lt;em&gt;three-way mitre joint&lt;/em&gt;. Traditionally this joint was done with complex internal joinery, as seen in the bottom two images below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sfT8p.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sfT8p.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Three-way mitre joints&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the very beefy corner bracket for external reinforcement there's a chance the joint on your table is cut very simply and just glued together. Although this makes the glue-up challenging (the joints will want to slide across each other) it &lt;em&gt;greatly&lt;/em&gt; speeds up the preceding steps. It's impossible to know because the details are now forever hidden, but there may be some internal reinforcement as well (e.g. floating tenons, biscuits, dowels) which, in addition to adding strength, will also lessen or prevent slippage of the glued surfaces during assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read more about modern three-way mitre joinery &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-how-to/joinery/miters/three-way-miter-joints&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; on Wood Magazine and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.finewoodworking.com/2011/01/22/3-way-miter-joint-chinese-style&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; on Fine Woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can only identify one screw in the provided photos and it appears to be a (substantial) countersink-head Phillips screw. Given all the drilled holes in the bracket are the same diameter I'm presuming they used the same screws throughout, and note, &lt;em&gt;including upwards&lt;/em&gt;, to attach the top; this gives us a further clue to its construction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The top&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;While Chinese tables are made entirely of solid wood the main field of the top is done as a floating panel, similar to how panels are done on frame-and-panel cupboard doors, which allows for seasonal movement of the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the photos we have so far, this table doesn't appear to have that construction. I surmise it has a plywood top, and only plywood (or other manmade board) allows for a solid top on a table of this type, with the legs integral to the entire construction and firmly fixed in place around all four edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would typically surround the manmade board with solid-wood edging, in a picture-frame manner that is not suitable for solid-wood construction (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5255&quot;&gt;previous Question&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-04-08T06:19:22.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12689" CreationDate="2021-04-08T16:35:19.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that there is no way to 100% keep powderpost beetles from entering your home, even with professionally cured and stored lumber, what you are doing is trying to &lt;em&gt;minimize&lt;/em&gt; your exposure. Control of these pests is through depth, rather than a single solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to say that, within some reasonable hand-waving, your mitigation technique will &lt;em&gt;approach&lt;/em&gt; some level of surety that the lumber does not contain these pests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd go further. The advice given by many pest-control folks is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you use untreated wood that has been stored outside, you need to treat it in some manner, as described in your Question. However, even industrial kilns can't guarantee there aren't powderpost beetles inside lumber.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wood should be kept below 12% moisture, as 12% and above is what the beetles need for their life-cycle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finish your wood projects that use this lumber with a &amp;quot;coating&amp;quot; finish. e.g., shellac, paint, or varnish of some sort (or equivalent).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact is, in some areas, you may already have these pests in your home, never mind in the furniture or lumber you bring into your home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2021-04-08T16:35:19.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12694" CreationDate="2021-04-08T16:47:23.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's collect the comments into an answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The only reasonable answer here is, &amp;quot;no&amp;quot;.&lt;/strong&gt; Short of a waterproof fibreglass or epoxy &amp;quot;shell&amp;quot; on the outside, there is no 100% waterproof finish you can apply to any surface that'll work ideally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hot tub (or barrel, or ship hull planking) construction depends on a close joint and thicker, clear-grained staves (or planks) that are made to swell and provide a &lt;em&gt;somewhat&lt;/em&gt; watertight container. This can be nearly watertight, as in barrels and small tubs (which eventually leak), to &lt;em&gt;mostly&lt;/em&gt; watertight, as in ship hulls and larger tubs that get torqued through use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most so-called water-proof finishes are literally microns thick, and will not act as dependable containers for water. At best, they shed moisture and let it bead off. These coatings, once cured, wouldn't stay flexible and handle the relatively large amounts of wood movement in such environments, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1/4-inch cedar is, at best, a veneer for a fibreglass or epoxy tub. It isn't appropriate as staves for a large, humans-sized bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe the best we can ask of such lumber is to act as a decorative and comfortable insert into a watertight tub of some kind. This is how modern tubs are made these days. Like wooden ships, few people are that invested into the amount of work required to maintain 100% wood hot tubs. And they always leak anyway. Both require some management of leaks into a &amp;quot;bilge&amp;quot;, whether that be a place where water is collected and discarded, or letting it soak into the ground around a deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2021-04-08T16:47:23.510" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12702" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12703" CreationDate="2021-04-11T13:47:00.337" Score="0" ViewCount="459" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to build a sideways bookshelf. The space I have to fit the bookshelf in is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depth: 13.7 inches&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Length: 87.5 inches&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Height: 35.5 inches&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I looked online for store-made bookshelves, none of them came close to matching these dimensions. So I'm thinking of making my own bookshelf. However, I've never made a bookshelf before, so I am looking for some pointers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My basic thinking is that I just buy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 pieces of 87.5'' x 12'' for the top and bottom of the bookshelf&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 pieces of 12'' x 33.5'' to support the top of the shelf&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 piece of 87.5'' x 35.5'' ask the back of the shelf&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the above dimensions, I assume the boards supporting the top of the shelf are 33.5'' and not 35.5 because I am assuming that the top and bottom of the shelf are each 1'' thick. Is that a good assumption or should it be thicker/thinner?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How should I make the shelves? I assume I can make 3 shelves in the space, each being ~10.5'' in height. (Explanation: 33.5 is the starting height inside the shelf, add two boards in the middle, each 1'' thick, and we get 31.5, divide each space up evenly = 31.5/3 = 10.5.) How would I support those shelves so they don't bend? Would making only two shelves be easier?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there any tips/tricks/helpful hints about making bookshelves that a novice like me might overlook?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When making a sideways bookshelf, what special considerations should I be keeping in mind?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What materials should I be using? Any wood and or screws or are there specific types that are best?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aE8bb.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aE8bb.png&quot; alt=&quot;Diagramo of what I am describing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10230" LastActivityDate="2021-04-11T19:27:39.703" Title="Building a sideways bookshelf" Tags="|wood|technique|furniture|strength|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12702" CreationDate="2021-04-11T14:28:54.990" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your main issue is the large span for the shelves. Plugging in your dimensions into &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Sagulator&lt;/a&gt; gives a sag of over 1/4&amp;quot; with pine, a tad under 1/4&amp;quot; with oak and around an inch for particle board or MDF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to reduce the sag is to have more support for the shelves. Even a single support in the middle (which reduces the span from 85&amp;quot; to 42.5&amp;quot;) yields an acceptable sag. Two supports at 28&amp;quot; apart will be even better, allowing use of thinner or weaker shelf material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bottom of the bookcase sits directly on the floor (i.e. without legs), the shelf supports can simply be 10.5&amp;quot; tall pieces of wood placed between the two shelves and between the bottom shelf and the bottom of the bookcase (no need to have the support between the top shelf and the top of the bookcase, unless you plan to use the top to store things as well (which from your description you can't)).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A simple construction of pieces of wood cut to length and then screwed together would be perfectly serviceable. Pre-drill the screw holes to avoid the wood splitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if you are planning on using pine boards from the big box store, note that a 1x12 board is actually 3/4&amp;quot; thick and 11-1/4&amp;quot; wide, so keep that in mind when making the cuts to length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2021-04-11T14:28:54.990" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12702" CreationDate="2021-04-11T16:19:15.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of issues to consider in this project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is not clear how much experience you have nor what tools you have to work with so it is difficult to give specific advice on how to proceed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The shelf layout limits the height of books you can store.  You may want to consider varying the height of the shelves such that one shelf handles taller books and another only handles paperbacks, if that works for your collection.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The connection of the shelves to the sides is important.  You can screw them into the side panels, but if the shelves are positively supported in a dado you get better overall support and weight distribution without additional tear out stress at the screw locations.  As an alternative you could also provide shelf cleats attached to the sides that serve to support the shelf.  Glued dado connections are much better and will not require any screws, but remember that glue connections do not work well for end grain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Intermediate supports will help prevent sagging across the length of the shelves. I would suggest two locations extending the full height of the shelf unit at each location.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The back panel is important to eliminate racking of the assembly to either side.  It can be attached to the shelf structure with screw along the perimeter of the assembly every 12-16&amp;quot;. (Screwing it to the shelves as well will help with stability, but will not help much in carrying the weight of the books.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your question suggests that this unit will fit in a recess.  If so, measure carefully to insure that the opening is uniform so that the unit can be slid in.  Do not make the unit too close in size to the opening to allow for any irregularities in the enclosure.  I would suggest that the assembly be at least 1/2&amp;quot; to 1&amp;quot; smaller in vertical and horizontal directions to allow it to be moved into place. You can close the perimeter gaps using wood trim, much like is used around a wood door frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.  As you refine your design, fell free to ask new, specific questions to get more focused answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2021-04-11T19:27:39.703" LastActivityDate="2021-04-11T19:27:39.703" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12705" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12707" CreationDate="2021-04-11T22:10:57.587" Score="5" ViewCount="1596" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a dado set that comes with a 1/16&amp;quot; and a 3/32&amp;quot; chipper. These will be &lt;em&gt;perfect&lt;/em&gt; for the 5/32&amp;quot; dado I need to cut. Unfortunately, the outer blades are each 1/4&amp;quot;, so there's no other combination of blades I could use to get my 5/32&amp;quot; dado.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Noting that the chippers are 4-tooth, is it safe to use just the chippers and not use the outer blades?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize that without the bevel, the cuts might not be quite as clean as they are with the outer blades (I'm a bit of a rookie, but I'm pretty darn impressed with my cuts so far), but that's less of a concern than just getting the dados cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize I could pick up a 5/32&amp;quot; router bit to make the cuts, but that would require making something of a jig to help get nice, straight cuts through the middle of the boards, and doing it on the saw &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be much quicker and easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2021-04-13T11:50:50.770" LastActivityDate="2021-04-13T11:50:50.770" Title="Is it safe to use just the chippers in a dado stack?" Tags="|table-saw|safety|dado|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12705" CreationDate="2021-04-12T02:12:35.393" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never tested it, but I would think that a chipper, with only two teeth, might be quite risky.  In a standard blade the teeth are secured in their path by the blade disc which serves to guide and support the teeth in the desired path.  Without the rotating mass of the blade disc, I would worry that it is much easier for something to go wrong to make the rotating blade wobble and grab the wood erratically. This would result in the chipper arm bending causing the width of cut to be expanded, or worse a loss of control of the wood or failure of the blade.  I believe there is an important safety reason blades are designed as they are and we don't see even cheap blades designed without a complete blade disc or so few teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2021-04-12T16:25:17.873" LastActivityDate="2021-04-12T16:25:17.873" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12705" CreationDate="2021-04-12T13:50:40.943" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it safe to use just the chippers in a dado stack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. The chippers are designed to do just that — chip out the middle of a groove &lt;em&gt;being cut on either side by &lt;strong&gt;both&lt;/strong&gt; outside blades&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some dado stacks come with instructions that state not to use the chippers without both blades, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.freudtools.com/public/assets/freud/downloadables/freudtools-instructions-for-making-a-dado-sled.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt; from Freud, sixth bullet point from bottom: &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;Always  use  both  outside  blades  of  the  dado  set.    Never  use  the  chippers  by  themselves  or  with  only  one  outside  blade.&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be the case that &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; dado stacks are only safe to use this way (and I strongly suspect this is the case) but that the instructions aren't as well written for all sets.... if, for example, your set doesn't explicitly say this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case it's not obvious for any future readers, the opposite is not the case — it is perfectly acceptable (and common practice) to run the outside blades by themselves, without any chippers, shims or other spacers in between. See both diagram and chart in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.diablotools.com/public/assets/diablo/downloadables/diablotools-dado-chipper-guide.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this PDF&lt;/a&gt; from Diablo&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The correct way to cut a needed groove using a dado set of any kind that can't cut it in a single operation is to use multiple passes. Generally you'll be able to cut once, then move the fence and run a second pass to get the width required&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, but you can cut a channel of any width this way if you just keep going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alternatively, just use your router&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This is bread and butter stuff for a router, and of course far safer&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;realize I could pick up a 5/32&amp;quot; router bit to make the cuts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although at first glance it seems very handy&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt; it's not required to have a router bit that matches your stock thickness, since a smaller bit can always cut a groove wider than itself via multiple passes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but that would require making something of a jig to help get nice, straight cuts through the middle of the boards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No jig is required for this, at the most basic you just need to run your router along a straightedge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If added security against wandering is required you can arrange a second straightedge parallel with the first. This doesn't take as long as you'd think, and once you've done it a couple of times it's something you can set up almost on autopilot (since the base itself is used to ensure spacing there's no measuring needed for that part of the setup).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Notice that it is implicit in this that both outside blades are fitted for all grooves wider than 1/4&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Rather than relying solely on the tape measure built into your saw or measuring manually from the blade to set the fence for the second cut scrap pieces should be run so you can dial it in; this should probably always be done, but it is vital where very tight tolerances are required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Important reminder that dado stacks are considered so dangerous elsewhere in the world that in those markets they're actually banned from being fitted to table saws in commercial workshops. And furthermore, saws are deliberately fitted with short arbours that makes fitting one impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt; While your router bit and stock may be the same size on paper, the reality might be quite different. The bit is likely to be dead on, but the stock could be way off (particularly with plywood, which not only can be over- or undersize, it can even vary in thickness place to place).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-04-12T13:50:40.943" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2211" CreationDate="2021-04-12T21:09:48.133" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use 2 part &amp;quot;3 in 1&amp;quot; oil to 1 part kerosene. Or you can try 3:1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can hear the cut on my carborundum two-sided stone, and the stone seems to be cleaner after the sharpening exercise. Wipe with a rag after, and store in a flame proof container with a lid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I final sharpen all my bladed and expensive carving tools this way and I do strop with a leather wheel and a compound. But the stone and 2:1 or 3:1 oil puts a fine edge and if you want to go the extra mile the strop or and amkasau stone works well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While on the subject of oils never use linseed oil as it will clog your stone and leave it sticky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10253" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-04-13T12:34:12.883" LastActivityDate="2021-04-13T12:34:12.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11560" CreationDate="2021-04-12T22:15:49.320" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't have to make the notch go all the way to the side of the box. I typically use 5/8 drawer box material and my notch starts 5/8 in from the drawer side leaving the last pin and about half of the first dovetail. Only notch what you have to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10254" LastActivityDate="2021-04-12T22:15:49.320" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12712" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12714" CreationDate="2021-04-13T01:16:54.997" Score="3" ViewCount="630" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to achieve a glossy finish on a piece of open grained wood, so I am looking at applying grain/pore filler to even out the surface. The articles/videos I've found online pretty much all say to seal the wood with shellac or similar prior to applying grain filler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the primary advantage of using sealer prior to applying grain filler? Am I asking for trouble if I apply grain filler without applying sealer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10121" LastActivityDate="2021-04-13T06:53:57.550" Title="What is the primary advantage of using sealer before applying grain filler?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12712" CreationDate="2021-04-13T06:53:57.550" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the primary advantage of using sealer prior to applying grain filler?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main reason to seal&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; is arguably to minimise the over-absorption of the binder in the filler, which can lead to chalking and/or adhesion problems down the line. This isn't an issue with all fillers, but it certainly can be with traditional oil-based pore fillers for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other sources state that it's to prevent the filler penetrating the broad areas of the wood, making it look murky or grubby, and there's certainly something to that with certain fillers. Still others claim it's to improve adhesion (dubious).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of the underlying reason, shellac&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; is excellent for this as it dries so quickly and reliably, even in a cold workshop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I asking for trouble if I apply grain filler without applying sealer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on the filler type. With certain caveats you should be guided by the instructions that come with the filler or are listed on the manufacturer's website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I would tend to err on the side of caution here and suggest you just do it anyway. It's not like it adds a lot of extra time if you're using shellac — shellac coats can be considered dry in 15 minutes or less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of your stated aim in doing this just to note, grain filling is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; necessary to achieving a glossy finish. What it does is give you an &lt;em&gt;uninterrupted&lt;/em&gt; shine, where the pore structure of the wood is hidden and you get a reflective surface akin to a sheet of glass. But there's no actual difference in gloss level per se.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And some people prefer to let open-grained woods like oak, ash and sapele exhibit their natural grain structure at least to some degree. If you want a partially grain filled appearance it's often enough to just build up a good few layers of your film finish, e.g. at least four or five full-strength coats of poly, and this will occur without any additional effort being needed. It's harder to get the same level of filling of the grain with shellac or lacquer without some sanding back, due to how thin these generally go on (and they shrink back as they dry due to the loss of the solvent).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Be aware you're not actually sealing the wood; even two wet layers of 2lb-cut shellac applied by brush will only partially seal the surface of wood, and you generally apply much less than this prior to grain filling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Note that it is not necessary to use dewaxed shellac for this purpose; traditionally such 'sealing' was done with plain ol' waxy shellac because dewaxed versions simply weren't available.... and obviously it didn't cause a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-04-13T06:53:57.550" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12715" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-13T12:53:26.523" Score="0" ViewCount="47" Body="&lt;p&gt;I applied a thick coat of oil poly. Once dry, it looked clear in color. However, it was very rough and uneven, so I sanded heavily. After hours of sanding, I wiped the sawdust off with a moist cloth. The color of the poly turned all milky and cloudy. It looks so horrible now. What do I do? Can I fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10260" LastActivityDate="2021-04-13T12:53:26.523" Title="Oil-based polyurethane became cloudy after sanding and wiping with moist cloth" Tags="|finishing|sanding|polyurethane|moisture|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2021-04-16T01:37:11.900" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10603" CreationDate="2021-04-13T15:53:58.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the end a normal concealed hinge from HAFELE did the trick. I guess a blum hinge would have obtained the same result. These kind of hinges have a decent range of adjustment so even if the layout specifies 9mm overlay, it can be easily adjusted to go from 8 to 10 and be extremely precise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the one I went for:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J5xRD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J5xRD.png&quot; alt=&quot;Hafele PDF catalogue snip&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reading from the table on the right, drilling the hole 5mm from the edge will give you a 9mm overlay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7964" LastActivityDate="2021-04-13T15:53:58.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12717" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-13T17:35:32.063" Score="0" ViewCount="548" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a few novice questions about repairing a wooden frame for a chair (upholstered recliner type, not a kitchen chair although it does not recline) that arrived damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two of the corner pieces are broken which I am planning to recut and I want to make sure they are secure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First question is about the glue. The existing pieces feature glued end grain; would using epoxy provide more hold than wood glue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the screws, are those indentations pocket holes? Is there any benefit to having them instead of drilling a pilot hole and putting a few screws at a similar angle? Anything else worth doing to reinforce?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hsIyc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hsIyc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DLmv2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DLmv2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o8c0V.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o8c0V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9309" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-04-14T07:36:58.453" LastActivityDate="2023-03-10T05:07:05.787" Title="Repairing a damaged chair frame" Tags="|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11602" CreationDate="2021-04-13T22:55:43.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I eventually solved the problem by chipping away at small part of the wood structure underneath where it was tightest. This gave it just the 1mm of space needed to be able to pull the board out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9518" LastActivityDate="2021-04-13T22:55:43.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12717" CreationDate="2021-04-14T07:52:08.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First question is about the glue. The existing pieces feature glued end grain; would using epoxy provide more hold than wood glue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW do realise this is not merely two end-grain surfaces glued together (the weakest glue joint). It's an end grain | long grain joint which is &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4233/what-are-the-different-grain-directions-and-how-do-they-affect-joint-strength/4240#4240&quot;&gt;not as weak as often supposed&lt;/a&gt;..... assuming it is done well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to mention, many such brackets are actually so lightly glued in the factory that the adhesive might as well not be there ^_^ While there's no reason not to glue, the screws/bolts could be considered to be doing the bulk of the heavy lifting here as they do when there's very little, or no, glue used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the screws, are those indentations pocket holes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are &lt;em&gt;counterbores&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any benefit to having them instead of drilling a pilot hole and putting a few screws at a similar angle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably not, although screwing in at an angle generally allows one to install longer screws than otherwise here they can't be that much longer because otherwise the screw will end up poking out of the end of the frame pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW important distinction to make here: if you go with the original screw installation you'll be drilling &lt;em&gt;clearance holes&lt;/em&gt; in the bracket pieces at the bottom of the counterbores, not pilot holes. The pilot holes go into the second piece of wood, the one that the screw actually bites into. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2708/are-there-specific-types-of-screws-i-should-use-for-woodworking/2714#2714&quot;&gt;Are there specific types of screws I should use for woodworking?&lt;/a&gt; for more detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything else worth doing to reinforce?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not pictured but I presume the fourth frame piece that the bracket tore loose from (the one with the pilot holes) needs to be recut or repaired. If you are repairing it's stronger to use long-grain plugs instead of the usual fix, a short piece of dowel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that it's up to you really. A lot of things in furniture construction are a case of over-engineering for strength, which &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; sometimes important but other times not, so is done more for peace of mind than actual real-world benefit. Now chairs are a case where it is important to make the thing as strong as you can, within reason, but the existing bracket installation is already an example of belt-and-braces (glue &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; screws) so I think you're safe assuming it's strong enough for the application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-04-14T07:52:08.797" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="385" CreationDate="2021-04-15T01:59:37.473" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I don't need a huge number of board feet I've had some luck with online hardwood dealers. However, if you have a big project the shipping costs add up quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lately I have been going to a local saw mill and paying extra for s2s or s4s lumber. The fee for this service isn't terrible, but it does add to project cost and their equipment is way better than what I could afford.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36" LastActivityDate="2021-04-15T01:59:37.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12724" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-12T20:43:29.200" Score="2" ViewCount="1938" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say from a standard board 1 in x3 in x6 feet cut strips of 1/8 in thickness?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Manu" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2021-04-15T13:26:17.267" LastActivityDate="2021-11-29T17:39:01.067" Title="Is it possible to rip thin strips of wood only using hand tools?" Tags="|hand-tools|resawing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="19" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12724" CreationDate="2021-04-12T20:56:34.400" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I understand it, ripping 1&amp;quot; x 3&amp;quot; x 6' to 1/8&amp;quot; thickness would result in strips that are 1&amp;quot; x 1/8&amp;quot; x 6'. I think that will be very hard to do with hand tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation is start with 1/8&amp;quot; thick wood. Not a lot of choices, but at least some &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/p/Utility-Panel-Common-1-8-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Actual-0-106-in-x-48-in-x-96-in-833096/100543684&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;available in 4' x 8' sheets&lt;/a&gt;. Starting with that, you will be cutting something like 2' x 6' x 1/8&amp;quot;. The cuts will now be 1&amp;quot; wide instead of 1/8&amp;quot; - much easier to handle. Each cut will be through 1/8&amp;quot; of wood instead of 1&amp;quot; - so it will be 8x as fast &amp;amp; easy - actually a &lt;strong&gt;lot&lt;/strong&gt; easier - almost to the point of score &amp;amp; cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="manassehkatz-Moving 2 Codidact" LastActivityDate="2021-04-14T22:28:28.240" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12724" CreationDate="2021-04-13T12:38:45.887" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adjust your thinking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've noted that you're trying to make some trim pieces. I can't, for the life of me, envision what you need 1x1/8&amp;quot; trim for, but I'll assume you need it and that's the perfect size for what you're after. (Oh! You're making doll-houses or other scale models! Of course.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I'd suggest that you rip your wood in 1/4&amp;quot; wide strips, then plane to the final thickness.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even the highest quality hand-saws will leave a rough cut that won't be acceptable for finish trim work. By cutting to 1/4&amp;quot; thickness, your cutting will be easier to handle than it would be at 1/8&amp;quot; (though it will still require a level of precision that you'll likely only attain on the later strips after you've had some practice).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By planning ahead to plane it to the final thickness, the precision of your cuts won't matter nearly as much, and the planed surface will be much nicer than the rough-cut surface. Depending on the installation details, you can get away with only planing the visible side. You may need to give the hidden side a pass or two with the hand plane to get it smooth enough to sit nicely, then do all the finishing work on the visible side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A properly sharpened and adjusted hand plane will give you paper thin shavings, somewhere on the order of 1/64&amp;quot;, so you'll be able to sneak right up to your final thickness. I'd suggest popping over to &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com&quot;&gt;Woodworking.se&lt;/a&gt; for loads of info on sharpening and tuning the plane to get it to make these paper thin shavings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how many pieces you need to make, I'd recommend a jig into which you can place the freshly cut pieces, with a stopper at one end to prevent it from moving, and sides to act as a depth-stop so you don't accidentally over plane and end up with something too thin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" OwnerDisplayName="FreeMan" LastActivityDate="2021-04-13T12:38:45.887" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12727" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12730" CreationDate="2021-04-15T16:42:22.667" Score="0" ViewCount="357" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5TCtg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5TCtg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cabinet photo&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;I want to build a free-standing cabinet for the kitchen but since it is my cabinet build, I am not very sure about being able to make a solid/stable cabinet without back panel. It will probably have 4 shelves (fixed) with each shelf divided into 70/30 width with alternating 70/30 divisions (1st &amp;quot;left&amp;quot; shelf is 70%, right shelf is 30% wide, second left shelf is 30% and right shelf is 70% wide and so on), so no vertical board dividing the cabinet in half.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Internet tells me the a 6 mm (quarter inch) plywood board is good enough for the back panel. Planning to make rabbet for back panel with circular saw and sanding. The problem that I am facing is that I cannot find a single plywood board big enough for the back panel. I want to ask if it is ok to use 2 plywood boards? Would it give the structural integrity that I am looking for, to avoid the cabinet from wobbling? I only have a circular saw so the boards might not join perfectly. The seam would also be visible from the front of the cabinet, which is not visually appealing. If there are any other solutions to solve the issue, please let me know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some details about cabinet below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Material for box and shelves: 19 mm Chipboard (3/4 in)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dimensions: 150 x 85 x 50 cm (H x L x W)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shelf joining method: Cleats&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10214" LastEditorUserId="10214" LastEditDate="2021-04-15T21:59:37.950" LastActivityDate="2021-04-16T15:41:57.503" Title="Back panels for wide cabinets" Tags="|plywood|strength|cabinetry|chipboard|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12728" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-15T20:09:55.577" Score="3" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to refurbish the posts and beams in my house.  They're quite beat up in some spots and have water damage streaks in the existing finish(es) in others, so I've decided to strip the existing finishes and re-build them rather than just paint over.  The beams are also solid timbers up to 40' in length, which I think is a unique feature of the house and shouldn't be covered with paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried to refurbish a few beams already and, unfortunately, the results haven't met my standards.  The unique challenges of this project are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The members must be refinished in place, with most surfaces vertical, and some surfaces upside-down (the underside of beams).  I've concluded this means I can't use anything water-based as it will run too much, though I'm open-minded here.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Douglas Fir is blotchy and has a high contrast grain pattern.  This is a problem because the house is very modern and minimal and loud grain patterns clash.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Given the above, how can I achieve an even, semi-opaque, medium tone finish on large, vertical  surfaces of douglas fir?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, the result looks something like these beams:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zrjCH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zrjCH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.galeriemagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/144_gallows_ln-litchfield_1549216976-1-1920x1200.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Galerie Magazine&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0hdMB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0hdMB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;sup&gt; Image Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://images.dwell.com/photos-6133553759298379776/6500793515247292416-large/breuers-signature-floating-staircase-features-abstract-geometric-cutouts.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dwell.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Existing Finishes:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many of the posts look like this &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rZGeA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rZGeA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;beam finish&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.  This is actually pretty close to what I want the new finish to look like but with a higher sheen, and without the damage of 70 years!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the beams look like this &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BAsue.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BAsue.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;beam finish&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Attempt #1 General Finishes Seal-A-Cell, Gel Stain, and Arm-R-Seal&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first attempt was to sand down the paint off the beams, sand to 180, and use Seal-A-Cell (de-waxed shellac) to seal the beam.  Then I applied 1 coat of General Finishes gel stain (5pt Brown  Mahogany 1pt Georgian Cherry).  Then I applied 3 coats of semi-gloss Arm-R-Seal (poly).  The results look like this in the best case &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/btp76.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/btp76.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;good result stain&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; and this in the worst case &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p66MB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p66MB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.  You can see that despite sealing the wood with shellac there was still considerable blotchiness, and even when the stain is &amp;quot;even&amp;quot;, the grain pattern is extremely loud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm probably going to sand down attempt #1 and try again either using many coats of dye-tinted shellac, or a paint cut with glaze or paint thinner.  I'd love yall's perspectives and thoughts on this!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10270" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2021-04-16T15:53:32.680" LastActivityDate="2023-08-24T16:51:24.870" Title="Refurbishing Posts &amp; Beams in a Modern 1954 House" Tags="|finishing|staining|refinishing|paint|shellac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12727" CreationDate="2021-04-15T22:56:07.867" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two reasons you want to add a backing panel to this construction:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To keep things from falling out the back&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To stiffen the construction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The benefits of the first are obvious. The second is to manage racking forces that any square construction will have a problem with. The idea is to provide a sort of &amp;quot;truss&amp;quot; for the rest of the build to resist it wanting to go out of square while in use (or over time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do this job, you don't need a continuous piece across the back. If we wanted to ignore (1) above, we could do the typical Ikea solution, and just provide a few inches of material as backing across the top, from corner to corner. And another one or two strips across the back down the length of the construction. This will be just enough to stiffen the construction to help keep it square (and, in the case of Ikea furniture, reduce the overall material cost).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, by connecting some or all of the edges to a backing panel we are creating a number of triangles that will resist both tension and compression, helping keep things square. In order to do this, that backing does not need to be continuous or even solidly connected. Because it is the mechanical connection between the corners of the cupboard, through the backing, to the other corners that gives it its strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-04-16T00:34:27.040" LastActivityDate="2021-04-16T00:34:27.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12727" CreationDate="2021-04-16T15:41:57.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you do not have and cannot find sheet goods big enough to cut a single sheet for your backing panel, then yes, use as many pieces as necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My wife has a flat pack 9-cubbie cabinet similar to what you're building (hers is a simple 3x3 construction) and there were only 5 pieces of cardboard provided for the backing. We installed one on each corner cubbie and one on the middle cubbie and there is &lt;em&gt;no&lt;/em&gt; racking whatsoever. Of course, things fall out the back of the other 4, but that's a different issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to make your backing from multiple pieces and don't want the seams to show (which is reasonable), just cut each piece to ensure the seams fall behind shelves or uprights. I'd probably do 3 horizontal pieces, but you could do 6, one for each shelf space if you wanted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Four screws or nails for each backing piece (two on the top, two on the bottom) should be more than sufficient to provide the rigidity you're after, more if you feel like it. Of course, gluing would work equally well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2021-04-16T15:41:57.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1410" CreationDate="2021-04-16T20:28:06.083" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do it all the time on a tablesaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Joint the wood on the face, and an edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trim opposing edge before resawing to ensure it's square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adjust blade height to a little over half the height of board. If you encounter resistance either lower height and retry or chuck the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boards will on occasion have internal tension and pinch the blade as you cut. This is dangerous and can lead to kickback. I tend to lower the blade significantly at this point and retry. Sometimes backing off in the middle of the cut and run it through again helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10272" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-04-17T12:57:13.223" LastActivityDate="2021-04-17T12:57:13.223" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12733" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-16T20:41:38.887" Score="2" ViewCount="406" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a spalted manitoba maple dining table. It ranges from 5 to 11 percent moisture so pretty dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each slab is 5 1/2 feet long 2 1/2 inches thick and between 20 and 21 inches wide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to the issue. I have noticed a lot of new cracks. And the slabs was completely smooth and flat. These cracks have now raised the wood on their edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is causing all these cracks and is it likely to happen more?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yUOA3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AWU0K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10273" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-04-20T11:15:47.937" LastActivityDate="2021-04-20T12:18:08.223" Title="Help with cracks in spalted maple" Tags="|wood|wood-repair|live-edge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12691" CreationDate="2021-04-17T06:05:43.130" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you thought of building your own &amp;quot;drawer fronts&amp;quot;? You could use one solid sheet of plywood and smaller sheets to create the look of drawers and molding to trim it out.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3FWLm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;this is just an example&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9081" LastActivityDate="2021-04-17T06:05:43.130" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12737" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-19T08:34:01.983" Score="-2" ViewCount="242" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make one three seater and 2 single seaters. the dimensions of the same are attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G709H.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G709H.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CXhbI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10282" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2021-04-19T17:03:50.617" LastActivityDate="2021-04-19T19:09:28.993" Title="I want to know the total wood requirement for my sofa set" Tags="|hardwood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2021-04-20T00:53:19.883" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12738" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-19T15:01:14.647" Score="1" ViewCount="604" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whilst pinning three layers of oak sleepers together with oak dowels, I have managed to get the 25mm diameter auger drill bit stuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any oil or lubricant that I can use to try and release the drill bit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of the 300mm drill cutting depth, about 200mm is within the sleepers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On previous holes it snagged but I managed to free it to finish the hole as needed, either by winding it anticlockwise with a spanner, or pulling up with the drill whilst turning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Appreciate whatever help or suggestions anyone can offer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10283" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-04-25T16:36:42.130" LastActivityDate="2021-04-25T16:36:42.130" Title="How to remove a 25mm drill bit stuck in oak sleeper" Tags="|drilling|drill-bits|oak|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12738" CreationDate="2021-04-19T17:03:07.943" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems that your pieces of wood have shifted somewhat since you started drilling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can eyeball the 3 pieces to see which one(s) seem out of line, use one or more clamps to persuade the wayward one back into position. Once you have lined them back up, you should be able to get the bit out and, &lt;em&gt;without removing the clamps&lt;/em&gt;, drive your dowel into the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an alternative, you could put the drill back on the bit and give it a spin&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt;, and that should cut the sides of the hole to line up with its edges again. Once you've cut the edges of the hole, the bit should come out again. Note that if you do this, you will have at least one elongated hole and when you put the dowel back in, that elongated hole will allow that one piece of wood to remain out of the desired original position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether or not it matters if the 3 pieces are out of alignment when pinned will probably be determined by how much finishing work you're doing after the pinning is done, and how far out of alignment the pieces are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt;If your drill bogs down and won't spin the bit because of the tension of the misaligned wood, you may need to use a long handled wrench to turn the bit, instead. If you have a hex-shafted drill bit, a 1/4&amp;quot; box wrench (spanner) should grab hold of it just fine. Since those tend to be small, a bit of pipe over the other end of the wrench should allow you to generate plenty of torque to turn the bit. If it's a round-shank bit, you may need to use a pipe-wrench or monkey-wrench, however, the serrated teeth, which give you a better bite, may dig into the shank and damage it. &lt;em&gt;Caveat emptor.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2021-04-19T17:03:07.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12737" CreationDate="2021-04-19T19:09:28.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First&lt;/strong&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are planning to make your own furniture (&lt;em&gt;or cabinetry or anything with wood&lt;/em&gt;) then learning how to calculate the stock needed is a skill &lt;strong&gt;YOU&lt;/strong&gt; need to &lt;strong&gt;learn&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Second&lt;/strong&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question about woodworking are better served on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/&quot;&gt;woodworking stack&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a wealth of info for you to research on &lt;a href=&quot;https://duckduckgo.com/?q=how%20to%20calculate%20the%20material%20requirements%20for%20building%20furniture&amp;amp;t=ffsb&amp;amp;ia=web&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;internet&lt;/a&gt; websites or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=HOW%20to%20calculate%20stock%20requirments%20for%20building%20furniture&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube&lt;/a&gt; to learn these skills. If you find you are stuck and need a particular question answered then post your question and explain how your research as not yielded the info you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2917" LastActivityDate="2021-04-19T19:09:28.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12733" CreationDate="2021-04-20T12:18:08.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll collate the info from the Comments above into an Answer on what's causing this and what to do moving forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is causing all these cracks and is it likely to happen more?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These look like classic, textbook in fact, drying cracks. As they've occurred after the wood was supposedly dried it seems likely it was poorly done, either too quickly (leaves the interior too damp), or incompletely (moisture content was left too high throughout).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now this is spalted wood, spalting being staining/colour changes that occur due to fungal action. And it's important to realise that the material is inherently undermined because, not to put too fine a point on it, this is fungal &lt;em&gt;decay&lt;/em&gt;. And each black boundary line surrounds a unique area of fungal attack; while the wood can be quite sound in some places — with no apparent change in strength, only in colour — in others it can be soft and 'punky' (sponge-like and crumbly). And everything in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what you get with spalted wood is always a bit of an unknown quantity. However, cracks of this number and severity should still not occur if the wood has been dried to a decent standard, as of course it should be if offered for sale by any commercial source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The OP has indicated that returning these slabs isn't an option, but for future readers &lt;strong&gt;do&lt;/strong&gt; investigate this route. Many woodworkers, and at a guess the majority of pros, would seek to return wood that behaves like this, or get a complete refund!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What to do now&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Because the cracking seems like it's ongoing it would not be advisable to flatten the surfaces or fill right now, but instead leave the wood to settle down as it reaches EMC (equilibrium moisture content) with its new surroundings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How will you know the wood has settled? You'll get no new cracks. This may sound like a wisecrack but it really isn't, the wood &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; eventually stop cracking. And it should be left to get there at its own pace. Patience is key with this sort of thing, it's hard but don't be tempted to try to stick to an arbitrary timescale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, to allow new wood that you've bought to reach equilibrium with the conditions in a home or workshop you need to leave it a minimum of a fortnight. But that's for wood of typical thicknesses, slabs take longer naturally (not just because of their thickness but also the width and length... that's &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; of interior wood volume).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;'Punky' wood, and what to do about it if you find it&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;For anything that'll be used much and not just a decorative item it's important to locate and deal with any punky areas. Apart from the importance of durability in something like a dining table, this can actually be needed just to achieve a uniform finish — the soft zones can be so soft they're impossible to machine, hand plane, scrape or even to sand properly, so hardening them up is frequently necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's reasonably common to use superglue for this purpose especially in wood turning and for small projects like jewellery boxes, but CPES (clear penetrating epoxy sealer) is also used, particularly on larger stuff as you might expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-04-20T12:18:08.223" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12742" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12744" CreationDate="2021-04-20T17:21:02.273" Score="2" ViewCount="655" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a shelf. Not going into the details on that since my question is of general nature:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When are barrel nuts + machine screw to prefer over wood screw + hole? And when are screw + hole better?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Barrel nuts are often used when joining particle board for the simple reason that you can't really fasten a wood screw in particle board. I can also imagine that barrel nuts have a bit more tolerance if there are many wholes that have to line up, since they can move a bit in their hole, while the receiving hole for a wood screw must be very precise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nut can be replaced in the unlikely event that the thread should be damaged -- but a worn out hole for a wood screw can be plugged and re-drilled as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a general overview and comparison of the two joining methods, that can serve as  a guide when choosing how to join stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4666/are-barrel-nuts-strong&quot;&gt;A related question regarding use of barrel nuts&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8717" LastActivityDate="2021-04-20T19:26:43.120" Title="When to use dowel/barrel nuts + machine screw VS wood screw + hole?" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12743" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-20T18:03:05.650" Score="0" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my first woodworking project, I am building bench with wood I found on the curb. Both my neighbor and a guy walking down the street said they thought the wood was at least 150-years-old. The walker suggested it used to be a floor joist. Anyway, my point is that it's an old and beautiful piece of wood, and I want to finish it in a way that preserves its sense of history. I really like the saw marks, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Filling cracks.&lt;/strong&gt; The wood has some cracks in it. I don't mind, but I don't want them to grow. And I attached the legs via dowels (based on &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/12684/&quot;&gt;this W.SE advice&lt;/a&gt;) and while it turned out well, there are some big gaps between the legs and the top. Do I need to fill these with epoxy or something for maximum durability over the years?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Finishing.&lt;/strong&gt; I don't know anything about finishing wood. Based on googling, I don't think I want a stain. Rather, I'd like something that minimally changes the color of the wood---just enough to really bring out the texture---and that preserves it. I don't really know what my options are, how many coats to use, how to clean the wood before finishing, etc. Any advice is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Photos&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ObXEcl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ObXEcl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z9psvl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z9psvl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kWfgHl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kWfgHl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8772" LastActivityDate="2021-04-20T18:03:05.650" Title="How to fill cracks and finish my bench (old found wood)?" Tags="|finishing|staining|filler|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12742" CreationDate="2021-04-20T19:26:43.120" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well first off challenge your perception that you can't use a conventional wood screw in particleboard/chipboard. You can. Screws (of a number of different types) are available that are designed specifically for this purpose, and have been since at least the late 60s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even when there were no such alternative screws (or the budget didn't allow for them) old-style normal woodscrews were used, possibly with some workarounds one of which is pictured in the previous Q&amp;amp;A you link to in the Question, a cross-grain hardwood dowel. Another method was to drill an oversize hole and glue in a fibre wallplug that the screw would subsequently be driven into once the glue had set&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When are barrel nuts + machine screw to prefer over wood screw + hole?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you want to build knock-down (KD) furniture. That's the primary purpose of barrel nuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And when are screw + hole better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Permanent assembly, often but not always with some or all joints being glued as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can also imagine that barrel nuts have a bit more tolerance if there are many wholes that have to line up, since they can move a bit in their hole&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not really. Although of course you &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; drill the holes for the nuts oversize to provide some wiggle room if you chose to, that's not normally how barrel nuts are done — the normal movement they have in their holes is really confined to rotation, with no or almost no side-to-side movement&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;while the receiving hole for a wood screw must be very precise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 'receiving hole', the &lt;em&gt;pilot hole&lt;/em&gt;, for a wood screw can be drilled with the pieces temporarily assembled, meaning that alignment is automatically ensured; there's no additional difficulty here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And these days various self-tapping screws are available that can be used on particleboard so that you don't even need to drill a pilot in the receiving panel, just the clearance hole (along with its corresponding countersink or counterbore of course) in the piece that will join to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; This same trick was often recommended for screws going into end grain in DIY furniture plans in the past, because of the belief (whether accurate or not, see more on that &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/7898/endgrain-screw-withdrawal-force/7988#7988&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) that screws didn't provide sufficient hold in end grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; IME it's normal for there to be zero play. How you build in some slack would be to drill slightly oversize holes for the bolt instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-04-20T19:26:43.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12745" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12746" CreationDate="2021-04-21T03:14:28.883" Score="3" ViewCount="980" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a (solid) 32x70in white oak dining table that has a pretty heavily wire-brushed finish, something like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3MVyV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3MVyV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crevices extend over 1mm below the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's really quite impractical as food/liquid bits get stuck in the grooves and I want to remove it and refinish. I'm wondering what the best way to do so is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a cheap random orbital sander but feels like it might take forever.  Open to upgrading my ROS (maybe getting a geared one like a Rotex), getting a belt sander (feels a bit one-time use and risky), or a larger hand plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would love to hear what you guys think the easiest or most sensible approach is here!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No car and live in the city so a bit impractical to haul it to a cabinet maker and ask them to sand it down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: actual picture of the table:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kouaV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kouaV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Actual table&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10291" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-04-22T03:47:19.960" LastActivityDate="2021-04-22T09:09:05.447" Title="How to remove a heavy wire-brushed finish?" Tags="|sanding|power-tools|refinishing|hand-planing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12745" CreationDate="2021-04-21T07:17:50.227" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;ROSs are finish sanders, and not well suited to bulk material removal (except for beasts like the Rotex). But of course you can fit a coarse disk — and I mean &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; coarse&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; — to any ROS to make it very aggressive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But maintaining flatness when removing this much material with a rotary sander is not easy..... I'm actually doubtful a dead-flat surface is actually achievable this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Belt sanders are more well suited to removing this much wood, but again they're not exactly built for achieving large flat surfaces. Although there are some strategies for helping to maintain/achieve this&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; even users familiar with their belt sanders talk about it being challenging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Router&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;In the absence of a wide-belt sander that can do the whole tabletop in single passes the ideal way to do this is probably using a router sled. Router sleds are very well covered online so if you have zero familiarity with them you'll have no trouble getting up to speed. &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4775/flattening-the-face-of-a-board-without-using-a-jointer/4783#4783&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a previous Answer that gives an introduction; the links may have gone stale now since this is from 2016, but you'll be able to re-find the same content easily enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hand planes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You can do this kind of thing via hand planing, same as had to be done with riven boards in the past which would be approximately this rough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not gonna lie, this requires a fair bit of sweat equity but not quite as much as one might imagine if the proper methodology, i.e. traditional practice, is adopted. Space doesn't allow for a full description of the process, but you'd begin with a plane set up for hogging off lots of wood&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; and use it in traversing passes (wood puts up &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; less resistance when you plane across it) until the surface is flat-ish, then switch to a jointer to flatten off, then smoothing plane if needed, followed by whatever finishing steps you favour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously the above does require at least three planes, and some familiarity with using them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alternatively, fill&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You could fill the texture. This can be done using a pore/grain filler naturally, but you can also do it entirely with a clear finish. If your tabletop is as rough as the one you linked to you'll still need to do a fair bit of sanding naturally, but you'd only be removing a fraction of the wood you'd have to otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither method may give you exactly the look you'd prefer, but they are a lot less work overall and the flatness of the final surface is much more assured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Like 60 or below.... 36 grit if available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Working across two diagonals, followed by along-the-grain passes. Also you can fit or make a sled to a belt sander to help prevent it diving in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; A roughing/scrub plane, a fore plane set up the traditional way, or a jack plane set up as a 'roughing jack'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-04-21T07:17:50.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12745" CreationDate="2021-04-21T14:38:47.697" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is deep enough for a planer machine, assuming it is not veneer. At one time I did some planning by taking a high school night school class in woodworking.  That may give you some ideas regarding where you might get use of a machine . Otherwise that is a lot of material to remove with a big belt sander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3966" LastActivityDate="2021-04-21T14:38:47.697" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12749" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-21T18:31:53.787" Score="2" ViewCount="472" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a very old (1940's) Kenmore stove/oven that has almost no info online about it -- and have been looking and failing to find replacement knobs for years now. It has an extra large D-shaped gas connection that fits inside the knob, and no universal or &amp;quot;Kenmore/Roper&amp;quot; knobs are big enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How might I handle this -- is there a mortise bit for this sort of thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, I guess I drill a hole, cut the wood in half along the center of the whole and glue a flat part to it? That is where I am headed...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebay.com/itm/402349060002?hash=item5daddf6fa2:g:xJAAAOSwGKRfKC1-&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This is the model&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a pic &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fB3y5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fB3y5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Kenmore/Roper Knob&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10295" LastEditorUserId="10295" LastEditDate="2021-04-22T03:32:37.353" LastActivityDate="2021-04-22T16:48:54.847" Title="How can I drill a D-shaped hole to make a custom wood knob for an old stove?" Tags="|glue|drill-bits|mortise-and-tenon|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12749" CreationDate="2021-04-22T14:52:39.450" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could drill a hole the the exact size of the semicircle and then on the one side you could chisel out a square section large enough so you could insert a small block of wood (1/4&amp;quot;1/4&amp;quot;x1/2&amp;quot;long) which fills the chiseled section as well as into the drilled hole to complete the semicircle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if this is the easiest way but it is an option that has not been suggested so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9887" LastActivityDate="2021-04-22T14:52:39.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12749" CreationDate="2021-04-22T16:48:54.847" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears from the description and the photo that the stub cross section is in essence a circle with a chord removed, basically it's a cylinder with a flat bottom. The easiest way to create a matching mortise in wood is to drill a hole of the major diameter, then partially plug it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a wood-only solution a small piece of dowel sanded or planed down is probably the easiest option for adding the flat. Although a face-grain plug would arguably be stronger I'm not sure it would matter, and anyway plug cutters are available in a much more limited range of sizes than dowel&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, as clarified in the Comments, the knobs are all going to be replaced then their shape can be much simpler, so the strength of the starting material matters less than it would if the complex form of the original knobs were being recreated. So any good, dense hardwood should suffice. Oak wouldn't be my first choice but I bet they'd outlast you. Maple would be a superior option (noticeably harder and not open-grained) but its pale colour is likely to become an issue in terms of them getting grubby with extended use. If I used maple I would consider painting them with something really tough, or alternatively staining them very dark so that if/when a clear finish wears off grubby marks are far less visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Consider adding a grub screw&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;A screw driven in through the 'bottom' of the handle at back would ensure they won't work loose over time, while still being fairly easily removable. But more than that, you could use this to avoid having to create the flat side of the mortise entirely — the screw can do &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; the gripping if required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The screw length should be carefully tailored so that it pinches the stub, but does not project from the wood. Any machine screw or bolt of suitable diameter can be suitably modified with a hacksaw or junior hacksaw (to cut to length and to saw in a screw slot) and a grinder or file (to round the tip).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hole to accept the grub screw does not need to be threaded in advance&lt;sup&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;. But if you wanted to do so and don't own a tap-and-die set you can easily create an ad-hoc one, see bottom of &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1716/how-can-you-make-a-regular-screw-into-a-self-tapping-screw/1735#1735&quot;&gt;this Answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of whether you thread in advance or not the walls of the holes can be strengthened by dribbling in some superglue/CA. This isn't strictly necessary&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; but by all means do it anyway if you want, it can't hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; If necessary the dowel could be custom made in the shop, the simplest method being to make a suitable dowel plate, see second half of &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2643/considerations-when-making-my-own-threaded-dowel-for-a-vise/2645#2645&quot;&gt;this Answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Forced-in and cut threads in strong hardwoods are very durable, even when regularly used which they won't be here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-04-22T16:48:54.847" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12755" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-22T19:03:52.643" Score="1" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ordered this reclaimed wood desk a few months back, and at first it looked pretty good. However, as a few weeks went by, I noticed the glue holding the boards together started to fail in many places, as well as a gnarly 10 inch crack growing on the side. From my initial research, this just seems like a moisture issue, but I would expect the boards to already be dried in a kiln or some type of process. Note, the desk was created in hot humid climate and was shipped to the NY Hudson Valley area. I also have forced air heating in the house. I contacted the company and they're not sure why this happened. My question is why did this happen? Is this just bad luck or the result of a manufacturing defect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ouba3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ouba3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;angle&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tR6Nd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tR6Nd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;split&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/acVdg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/acVdg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;under desk&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10303" LastEditorUserId="10303" LastEditDate="2021-04-22T23:32:26.343" LastActivityDate="2021-04-22T23:32:26.343" Title="Why did desk boards split apart?" Tags="|wood-movement|moisture|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2021-04-24T15:37:16.243" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12756" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12758" CreationDate="2021-04-22T20:57:07.200" Score="0" ViewCount="279" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've started to enjoy using manual tools (&amp;quot;unplugged woodworking&amp;quot;) and I've been getting manual tools (marking gauges, smoothing plane, saws, block plane, chisels, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have piece of wood 20cm long x 1.5cm wide x 0.5cm thick (8&amp;quot; x 9/16&amp;quot; x 3/16&amp;quot;) which has one side  straight and one side wavy. I need to remove approximately 2mm (a little more than 1/16&amp;quot;) off the wavy side. I've traced a line using a marking gauge referencing the straight side on both faces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'm stumped on what would be the best way to do this manually.&#xA;If I try to use the saw, the amount to be removed is approximately the kerf of the saw and it would wander and refuse to do a decent job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The block/smoothing plane would take &amp;quot;forever&amp;quot; (I think?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Should I get a scrub plane?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Maybe there's some other efficient method that I don't know about?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;How would you do this?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastEditorUserId="3985" LastEditDate="2021-04-22T21:39:07.600" LastActivityDate="2021-04-23T06:21:12.780" Title="Remove little material from a wooden piece with manual tools" Tags="|hand-tools|hand-planing|traditional-techniques|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12756" CreationDate="2021-04-23T00:46:17.287" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're correct, sawing off this little material isn't possible by hand under normal circumstances. You could possibly do it working very carefully using a saw with a very thin plate (e.g. a Japanese saw) but it would still be challenging to saw off a strip this thin in a single unbroken piece. And once you get a breakage it's very difficult to restart a cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The correct tool for the job is a plane. Your smoothing plane isn't the ideal one for this, but it can comfortably do the job especially on a board as small and thin as this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TBH this board is so small that you could probably adjust for a heavier cut than normal and just set to work! But here's some general advice on setting up a plane for removing more material than normal that may be useful in future situations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure your iron is extremely sharp; might as well freshly hone it before you begin. There's no such thing as &lt;em&gt;too sharp&lt;/em&gt; with woodworking tools :-)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Back the cap iron away from the edge 3mm or more IF your plane allows; not all do&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust for as heavy a cut as you can comfortably take in whatever species this is&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If by chance you have the frog set forward of the default position (in line with the rear of the mouth) adjust it until it is.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you are close to your gauge lines set your plane back up the way you had it before and proceed more slowly until you're done.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since a smoother isn't the ideal plane for this which one is? If we imagine a woodworker with a really comprehensive collection of hand planes a scrub or roughing plane is probably not what they'd reach for to remove ~2mm from the edge of a board (even one much thicker than this). Instead I think it's much more likely they'd use a jack or fore plane&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; set up the traditional way — with cambered irons fitted. Note that this refers to the &lt;em&gt;profile of the edge&lt;/em&gt;, not the bevel shape (bevels can also be cambered, as taught by Paul Sellers for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might find some information in these previous Answers useful:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4763/different-ways-to-set-up-a-number-4-bench-plane/7806#4766&quot;&gt;Different ways to set up a Number 4 bench plane&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5460/hand-plane-controls-bevel-down/5462#5462&quot;&gt;hand plane controls (bevel down)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; The position of the slot in the cap iron and the adjustment mechanism in the plane sometimes heavily restrict how far back the cap iron can be set while still allowing the cutting edge to not to project too far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; You can take really heavy, 'woody', shavings working along the grain even in some hard hardwoods, but not in particularly hard ones such as some tropical species.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; If not using wooden planes, this would be a 5 and a 6 in the Stanley numbering convention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-04-23T06:21:12.780" LastActivityDate="2021-04-23T06:21:12.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10944" CreationDate="2021-04-23T14:04:31.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Same thing happened to me yesterday. How I ended up here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was cutting out a 1/8&amp;quot;x1/8&amp;quot; groove. I only mention that, cause no way it was stress. Barely using the bit. I hate 1/4&amp;quot; shanks, after yesterday, I know even more why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same router as you. Nearly the same setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was using the battery operated version. 3ah battery. Always in it. It runs low I charge it. Do other stuff for 15 minutes. Just keeps the compact compact, only reason I've always followed that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ran a bunch of practice cuts. Ran two of the four doors. Got to the 3rd, battery died.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up putting in a fully charged 6ah battery to finish the job. Popped it in turned it on and thought, in hindsight, wow that sounds a lot more powerful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Found where I left off, ran about an inch, and POP!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a cabinet door. Happened to be working for an engineer on this job. He is convinced, I am too, it was speed and heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That new battery upped the speed somehow. Both 18v batteries. ‍♂️. But, that bend was heat and the bit getting just off kilter. No other explaination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happened to have a spare arbor. The one I bent was a whiteside. So, not cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Got everything all set back up and knocked the speed down by half. Sounded about the same as the setup with the 3ah battery. Somehow that 6ah also doubled the speed, heated the bit, and it got just a bit off center and went out if control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just glad it was only wood that messed up. Keep those bits at low speed is my takeaway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10308" LastActivityDate="2021-04-23T14:04:31.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12760" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12765" CreationDate="2021-04-23T17:38:16.867" Score="1" ViewCount="120" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m thinking of trying French polishing, but I want to understand the process more before I start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don’t understand the purpose of applying oil to the pad when French polishing. Some sources say to apply it to the bottom of the pad - wouldn’t that interfere with the shellac? Others say to apply it to the sides - what does that do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I’ve read says to apply more shellac once the pad starts sticking. If I’m doing that, why do I need oil for lubrication?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10121" LastActivityDate="2021-04-25T09:29:18.110" Title="What is the purpose of oil in French polishing?" Tags="|finishing|technique|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12762" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-24T13:56:53.457" Score="0" ViewCount="581" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Chris Schwarz's blue workbench book, he mentions that unglued, drawbored pins can be drilled out of a mortise and tenon joint in case the piece (for example, a heavy bench) needs to be disassembled and moved. Could someone with experience doing that speak to how difficult it is? What about re-pegging the joint afterwards? Is it an effective way to produce &amp;quot;knock-down&amp;quot; furniture that doesn't need to be moved very often, without sacrificing rigidity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10105" LastActivityDate="2021-04-24T16:34:04.213" Title="Dissassembling drawbored mortise and tenon joints" Tags="|joinery|mortise-and-tenon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12738" CreationDate="2021-04-24T15:13:28.517" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the comments and suggestions all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I fed some linseed oil down the auger bit and using an adjustable spanner (with a long handle for leverage) was able to turn the bit anticlockwise. The more I turned, the easier it became thanks to the oil. I reattached the drill and whilst activating the drill, and was able to pull the bit free from the jam and remove the bit completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10283" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-04-25T16:36:03.987" LastActivityDate="2021-04-25T16:36:03.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12762" CreationDate="2021-04-24T16:34:04.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't read the book, so caveat emptor here...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, a non-blind pin (ie, one that's visible on both sides and far and away the most common approach) can easily be punched out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know why you'd want to drill, frankly, as you'd risk hitting the tenon and forcing yourself into an ever-expanding cycle of bigger and bigger pins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pegging afterwards is probably a bit hit/miss. The action of the drawbore deliberately mutilates fibers in the tenon, and doing that over and over again isn't a winning proposition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might look at the google image search results for &amp;quot;pegged trestle arts and crafts table&amp;quot; for some inspiration on external (ie, easy to remove) pegs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this was me, and I was opposed to mechanical fasteners, I would peg without drawboring. Or have an incredibly mild drawbore action -- like a 32nd. This would also mean that the fit of the mortise/tenon had to be exemplary and possibly designed to be a bit bigger than typical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanical fasteners like a &amp;quot;barrel nut&amp;quot; / &amp;quot;cross dowel&amp;quot;, combined with a connector bolt with a big flange (ie, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rockler.com/connector-bolts-statuary-bronze-connector-bolts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;example from Rockler&lt;/a&gt;) would be my go-to strategy if I wanted something I could take apart and reassemble. Keep in mind that only a few parts need to be disassemble-able: the top needs to come off the legs, and (design depending, of course) the rails connecting the legs. The leg assemblies can be permanently built.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2021-04-24T16:34:04.213" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12760" CreationDate="2021-04-25T09:29:18.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don’t understand the purpose of applying oil to the pad when French polishing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a lubricant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's it basically. Although there have been deliberate attempts to protect the process and keep it under wraps in the past&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; there's no jealously guarded proprietary knowledge protected by a Mason-like secret handshake here ^_^ the oil is just to lubricate the pad and prevent it sticking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some sources say to apply it to the bottom of the pad - wouldn’t that interfere with the shellac?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. I know it seems like it has to, but just be confident that it doesn't. French polishing has been done this way continually since the 19th century which tells us it can't be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Others say to apply it to the sides&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was going to say I've never read this but TBH I just don't recall. I do believe the commonest advice is to oil the pad face, either directly or by dipping a finger into oil and tapping that to the face (depending to some extent on how much oil the specific source you're reading suggests is the right amount to use&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;) and I can confirm this works exactly the way you want it to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Read with this in mind, older sources in particular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; How much oil to use, how exactly it should be used and what oil you can/should use, you have to delve more deeply to find out.... or figure it out for yourself. Trust me, it's not that hard. Once you realise the oil forms no part of the final finish and is &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; a lubricant you'll probably realise the same thing that a number of modern practitioners have independently figured out, or found out via experimentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-04-25T09:29:18.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12767" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12782" CreationDate="2021-04-26T00:57:18.653" Score="3" ViewCount="759" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old wheelbarrow with wooden handles. It works great, but I keep getting splinters from the handles. Sanding the handles hasn't solved the problem. The surface is too rough. I thought about treating it with something used to resurface a deck. Before I do something like that, I thought I'd check with the experts around here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should I treat the handles to prevent splinters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;N.B. I think the handles are ash, but they are so old that it's hard to tell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10320" LastActivityDate="2021-04-30T14:24:29.147" Title="Splinters in wheelbarrow handles" Tags="|sanding|surface-preparation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12767" CreationDate="2021-04-26T19:33:46.350" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you keep your wheelbarrow outside, as I do.  I recently sanded my wheelbarrow handles and treated them with &amp;quot;spar urethane&amp;quot; to solve the same persistent splinter problem you've described, and I expect it will prevent further oxidation and degradation of the wood during continued outdoor storage.  &amp;quot;Spar urethane&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;spar varnish&amp;quot; is a polyurethane or varnish that includes a UV blocker.  It should protect both from sun and rain.  I used the same stuff for the rigging and spars of a home-made wooden sailboat that lives outside but under a cover and in that application I have needed to reapply after 5 years or so.  The wheelbarrow is not under a cover and may need more frequent touch ups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8547" LastActivityDate="2021-04-26T19:33:46.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12769" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-26T20:28:36.633" Score="1" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ainu people (indigenous to Japan) use long wood shavings as a material to weave or braid into headpieces.  The movie &lt;em&gt;Ainu Mosir&lt;/em&gt; includes a scene that demonstrates the process of shaving down a green stave with a sharp knife.  The stave was about .5 meter long and the shavings stayed full length.  When they were later braided/woven, they made a strong material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What properties would make a wood suitable for this task? Does anyone know what wood the Ainu use? I know they use elm to make clothes, so this could be elm as well. I am also looking for any potential temperate alternatives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FyNkE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FyNkE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10326" LastEditorUserId="10326" LastEditDate="2021-04-26T21:10:46.737" LastActivityDate="2021-04-26T21:10:46.737" Title="Produce long, strong, flexible shavings" Tags="|wood|strength|traditional-techniques|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12770" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12771" CreationDate="2021-04-27T03:08:16.770" Score="1" ViewCount="453" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a mobile (not on wheels) kitchen island for my partner in our new apartment, as a first woodworking project. A 3'x2' top is about right for the space, and she'd like an overall height of around 37&amp;quot;, with a top thickness of around 1&amp;quot;-1.5&amp;quot;. I expect to use maple for the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because I don't have space for power tools I plan on using dimensional lumber, and I planned to use 2x2x36 poplar for the legs. But since that will give me an actual leg width of 1.5x1.5, I'm not sure this will be enough support. I plan to use aprons made with 1x3 poplar, attached to legs with mortise and tenons, along with 1x2 side stretchers near the base of the legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are 1.5&amp;quot; square legs sufficient for a tabletop of this size? And will the use of this thickness of lumber (3/4&amp;quot; aprons and stretchers) prevent a good, solid mortise and tenon joint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10327" LastActivityDate="2021-04-27T17:42:24.180" Title="Are 1.5&quot;x1.5&quot; poplar legs strong enough to support a 3'x2' hardwood top?" Tags="|strength|table-making|mortise-and-tenon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12770" CreationDate="2021-04-27T04:13:16.883" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go for it! I think this will be solid enough, especially with the stretchers down low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cherry legs on this taper to about an inch square. The top is concrete and about 60#. It held an espresso machine that was probably about 50# without shaking. Btw, there's a drawer in there, so it wasn't solid apron all around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: a few more dimensions... legs are 1-1/8 at the bottom, 1-5/8 near the top. Apron is 5-1/2x3/4 actual in maple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ftZ8l.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ftZ8l.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cherry/maple/concrete table&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastEditorUserId="503" LastEditDate="2021-04-27T17:42:24.180" LastActivityDate="2021-04-27T17:42:24.180" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12767" CreationDate="2021-04-27T07:37:48.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I say in the Comment above, it is possible that just sanding deeper would resolve the problem with splinters&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. It depends on the level of weathering whether this is viable; you don't want to sand too deeply and change the profile of the handles too much and/or weaken them, plus there's no non-destructive way of knowing in advance if it will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the other option that first occurred to me was to consolidate the wood that's there. This can be done in a number of ways but essentially, or literally, you will be glueing the splinters in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Coat them in something&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Exterior varnish. Spar varnish&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; is a type of exterior varnish but intended for more fully exposed contexts, it's softer and may get slightly tacky with use in hot weather.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paint. A suitable exterior paint could be enough to do what's needed, although I'd expect varnish to work better (since varnish is &amp;quot;all binder&amp;quot; so to speak).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Epoxy. Some might suggest a penetrating epoxy (CPES) here but again cost may be prohibitive, and it may not work as effectively as just straight epoxy adhesive anyway.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cover the ends with rubbery grips&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I'm familiar with these from metal wheelbarrows so they immediately came to mind as a possible solution. I didn't know if they were available to buy separately but I tried a search and they are, not really surprisingly. No idea if any are made that will fit your handles but worth investigating I thought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tape 'em&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Obviously you could just use duct tape or something similar here, although the grip wouldn't be great many a tool handle has been fixed or bulked out with duct tape! There are grip tapes though which would probably do everything needed here, prevent splinters forming and improve on the current grip so win-win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wrap in string, cord&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If you don't use a synthetic you can protect the natural fibre if necessary by overcoating in varnish or epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And last but not least....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do nothing, just wear thick gloves&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;:-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Underneath the surface of weathered wood there is very frequently sound wood, and sometimes surprisingly close to the surface (although I expect that's not the case here).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; A true marine spar varnish is probably overkill, and also an expensive purchase for just the one utilitarian item. Plus you probably won't find any for sale at the usual places you might be looking to purchase anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-04-27T07:37:48.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12767" CreationDate="2021-04-27T14:07:27.803" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the wood itself is reasonably sound, just rough, and the damage is deep enough that it will take considerable sanding to eliminate the gouges, I'd consider using a wood filler or epoxy to fill in the depths. Doing so will also help lock in the little bits that are sticking out trying to jab you every time you use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's been quite a while since I've used wood filler, but the ones I remember were a fairly thick, putty like substance that would stick in place once pushed into the gaps. Trying this with epoxy would require a fairly thick epoxy mixture designed for filling so that it doesn't just run down the handles and/or drip to the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the surface has been filled to levelish all the way around, sand it smooth, then coat with one of the materials described in other answers to protect both the filler (particularly wood filler, not so much epoxy) and the remaining wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2021-04-27T14:07:27.803" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12774" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12828" CreationDate="2021-04-27T20:50:14.947" Score="1" ViewCount="359" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently got two lovely wooden chairs, and I wanted to disassemble them to fix their wobble issues and to revamp some dings that the wood in the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm stuck on figuring out how to detach these flush interlocking metal joints that they used to join the four legs., and are the main cause of the wobble. It looks like a simple sliding mechanism with two parts that screw into two different pieces of wood, and one slides into the other (see pictures). I've tried sliding the inner part out but it seems to be locked and it doesn't bulge (and I don't want to apply too much pressure and split the wood). I can't see any locking mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8pVmH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8pVmH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The joint&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qyAts.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qyAts.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;From the side&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Htko.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Htko.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;From the bottom&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on how I can detach these two pieces of wood?&#xA;(if it makes any difference, it is a dutch-made chair)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10330" LastActivityDate="2024-01-07T13:26:56.000" Title="How do I disassemble this metal sliding-interlocking fastener on this chair?" Tags="|wood-repair|fasteners|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12775" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-28T03:25:39.250" Score="0" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made a platform bed with protruding bedrails. (All 3 sides except headboard side) I have made them foldable by placing hinges between bedrail and bedframe. So it flips up and comes down at 90 degree back to it's place. I am done with everything it's just that when I lift it up how do I keep it straight at it's place?? (On top of the bed frame!?/ Parallel to bed frame)&#xA;Thanks in advance!!&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FXzcc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W7HDE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TwhNl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10334" LastEditorUserId="10334" LastEditDate="2021-04-29T20:50:20.463" LastActivityDate="2021-04-30T17:55:42.867" Title="How do I keep my folding bed side rail up?" Tags="|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12776" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12777" CreationDate="2021-04-29T17:05:09.707" Score="2" ViewCount="551" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a collection of veneer pieces that I need to store (possibly for months or even years). Their size varies from less than a foot in length to around 8 feet long. Sandwiching veneer between two sheets of plywood or MDF [and optionally wrapping them in shrinkwrap] has been recommended. I can do that with the smaller pieces, but not the longer ones. Is it OK to roll them up for storage? I understand longer veneers are shipped that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10339" LastActivityDate="2021-04-29T19:25:21.667" Title="Best practice for storing veneer?" Tags="|veneer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12776" CreationDate="2021-04-29T19:25:21.667" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The consensus is to store veneers flat. If you don't currently have somewhere suitable for the longest pieces consider installing a shelf high on a wall somewhere (or even &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.finewoodworking.com/2011/04/17/free-plan-overhead-lumber-rack&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;from the ceiling&lt;/a&gt;!) in the home or garage so that it can be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some quotes (my emphasis):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Most veneers come as flat sheets, although flexible (paper- or adhesive-backed) veneer may be sold in a roll. &lt;strong&gt;Always unroll these materials and store them flat&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Rolled veneers should be &lt;strong&gt;carefully unrolled as soon as possible&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;kept flat in a horizontal position&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Long wood veneers are typically rolled up for shipment. Once they arrive, &lt;strong&gt;it's best to slowly and carefully unroll the veneer and then store it flat&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most sources also agree about wrapping in plastic being advisable to prevent veneers from drying out (note: even in the UK, where humidity is consistently higher than in most of the US; so neglect this at your risk).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most-mentioned material for this is shrink-wrap as you mention in the Question, and occasionally black shrink-wrap. Trash bags are also frequently suggested, and sometimes also plastic sheeting sold in roll form. Obviously shrink-wrap will do the best job here. The last will be least effective at keeping the moisture level constant unless you tape all the edges with something like duct tape, but just as a laid-on cover a plastic sheet is still better than nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More info and further tips in the following links:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.herzogveneers.com/the-proper-storage-of-raw-and-backed-wood-veneer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Proper Storage of Raw and Backed Wood Veneer&lt;/a&gt; on the Herzog Veneers site.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/skills/storage-strategies-for-paper-thin-veneers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Storage strategies for paper-thin veneers&lt;/a&gt; from Wood Magazine.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Storing_and_Flattening_Veneer.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Storing (and Flattening) Veneer&lt;/a&gt; on WoodWeb.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.finewoodworking.com/2010/06/03/store-veneer-flat&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Store Veneer Flat&lt;/a&gt; on Fine Woodworking (note: behind paywall).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some random other quotes I came across along the way that I thought could be of interest:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shelf Life&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Typically, there is no &amp;quot;shelf life&amp;quot; to a veneer when it is stored properly. I have used elm burl veneer that was sliced in the early 1970's and there was no problem.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Some of my best veneers are stored under my bed!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If long-term storage is anticipated, [Jonathan Benson] recommends taping the ends across the width with veneer tape or high-quality masking tape the day the veneer arrives, before it can dry out at all, to prevent splits.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-04-29T19:25:21.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12778" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12780" CreationDate="2021-04-30T01:33:50.093" Score="4" ViewCount="1465" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Short version&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm using a few coats of boiled linseed oil (BLO) followed by a few coats of polyurethane, what should the timing schedule be? For my specific use case, this will be a large butcher block tabletop in Sapele wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Longer version&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to finish a large butcher block tabletop in Sapele wood that will be used for a writing/computer desk. According to the manufacturer of the butcher block (&lt;a href=&quot;https://hardwoodreflections.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hardwood Reflections&lt;/a&gt;), the wood &amp;quot;MUST be sealed or finished on all surfaces&amp;quot; immediately after opening the interior plastic wrap it comes in. According to them, this is to prevent the wood from drying and cracking. When I was first looking into it, it seemed to me that the manufacturer was specifically implying it needed to be &lt;em&gt;oiled&lt;/em&gt; (they mention mineral oil repeatedly, but I definitely want to avoid that because this will be for a desk), but further reading on their site seems to indicate elsewhere that a poly would be fine (in a FAQ: &amp;quot;we highly recommend sealing  within three (3) days of unpacking it with either a urethane or an oil finish&amp;quot;). With that in mind, here are all the wrinkles of my specific use-case that might actually wind up invalidating the original question and implying I'd be better off going in a different direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have about a month to devote to this project, with an hour or two every few days available. While I'm fine to put in a decent chunk of time, will I see a meaningful difference doing BLO followed by (oil-based) poly? Or will it not really make much of a difference in terms of look if I just jump right into using an oil-based poly? I know the BLO will impart a slight ambering, which is a slight plus for me, but not a huge deal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I know &amp;quot;drying&amp;quot; times vary based on environment -- this project will be taking place in May in Southern California, working in a garage, so pretty warm (80-90F) and fairly dry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would there be a significant benefit doing this with tung oil instead of BLO? Like I said, I'm only slightly positive on the ambering, a lot of the reason I'm picking BLO is because it's easier to buy than tung oil and seems that it would cure faster.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10340" LastActivityDate="2021-04-30T12:55:53.913" Title="Polyurethane over Boiled Linseed Oil Timing? -- Butcher Block Tabletop" Tags="|finishing|polyurethane|tung-oil|boiled-linseed-oil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12778" CreationDate="2021-04-30T11:47:28.477" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have about a month to devote to this project, with an hour or two every few days available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this is a good-news-up-front deal: that's ample time to do a number of different finishing regimes, and with the fastest of them (see bottom) most of the month can be devoted to just waiting out the cure period after the final coat has gone on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I'm fine to put in a decent chunk of time, will I see a meaningful difference doing BLO followed by (oil-based) poly? Or will it not really make much of a difference in terms of look if I just jump right into using an oil-based poly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I say in my Comment above, there's often little to no benefit in applying oil first before poly. Where applying oil first does provide a visual gain — greater &amp;quot;grain pop&amp;quot; and/or improvement in chatoyance — the difference can be slight enough that it's very much an individual call whether it's worth the extra time and effort required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's mostly about the species you're working with, but it can come down to the individual piece of wood you're dealing with sometimes (likely to be irrelevant here given that you're finishing something made from so many different pieces&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the BLO will impart a slight ambering, which is a slight plus for me, but not a huge deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So does oil-based varnish. Although there is sometimes a marked difference in the colour of the two liquids, there's usually no detectable difference once on the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems surprising but it shouldn't be when one bears in mind that you get a very similar colour change if you just wet wood down with water or mineral spirits, both of which are colourless of course. Wetting down is sometimes used to 'preview' the finished look (and it's a great way to check for incompletely wiped-away glue, and missed glue spots).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know &amp;quot;drying&amp;quot; times vary based on environment -- this project will be taking place in May in Southern California, working in a garage, so pretty warm (80-90F) and fairly dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you should have zero worries about drying time (or as you accurately refer to it, 'drying' time) at those temps unless your humidity was very high, which it seems is not the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a lot of the reason I'm picking BLO is because it's easier to buy than tung oil and seems that it would cure faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's pure tung oil that you mean, then yes usually&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; BLO cures &lt;em&gt;significantly&lt;/em&gt; faster (although curiously this doesn't make for a faster finishing regime if doing a pure oil finish, at least &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/6856/are-oil-finishing-and-oil-polishing-complementary/6858#6858&quot;&gt;the traditional way&lt;/a&gt;, LOL).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So, what to finish with&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Obviously you have many many options here. You could use just oil. You could oil first, then start applying your varnish. You could use the polyurethane by itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can even blend your BLO and varnish together, then thin the mixture further, to make &amp;quot;California oil&amp;quot; so to speak&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I would suggest going straight to poly makes the most sense for you. Regardless if the surface were not that large I would recommend thinning the finish to turn it into &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5891/how-to-fix-very-light-scratches-in-polyurethane-finish/5893#5893&quot;&gt;wiping varnish&lt;/a&gt; because even for first-timers it makes varnishing virtually foolproof; by comparison brushing on varnish is considered something only pros can do reliably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important to wait as long as possible after finishing something before putting it into service. At least a fortnight and ideally a month (or longer if chance allows). So in your case if finishing takes under week you can spend most of the month just admiring your handiwork and waiting patiently for the finish to toughen up so it provides max protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; So while you might have individual strips (or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.worktop-express.co.uk/information_guides/choosing-kitchen-worktop-construction-types-explained-worktop-express-nutshell-guide/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;staves in UK parlance&lt;/a&gt;) which benefit it could easily be flanked on both sides by pieces where there it makes no difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Every Pure Tung Oil or Boiled Linseed Oil on the market does &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; have the same stuff inside the container, and there can be some quite marked differences across the board in 'drying' times (and, incidentally, in the look they can achieve, especially in the shorter term).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; This is pretty much what commercial &amp;quot;Danish oil&amp;quot; is, minus some added drying agents..... and also &amp;quot;Tung Oil Finish&amp;quot; which is just a marketing name (and usually contains not a trace of tung oil).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-04-30T11:47:28.477" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12778" CreationDate="2021-04-30T12:55:53.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used BLO under water-based poly in the past, to get the coloring effect of the oil without using an oil-based poly (mainly due to that being on hand for the project). The best recommendation I could find is wait until the BLO smell is gone completely before applying the poly. For me it took about 2 or 3 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you are already planning to use an oil-based poly, I don't really see a benefit of the BLO underneath. You can give it a try on a piece of scrap wood of the same type as the project - put BLO on one half of it and leave the other half bare. Wait a few days and then apply the oil-based poly. That should give you an indication of the color you will get, if not perfectly replicate the final result (due to potential adhesion problems that won't give the same protection from the poly as waiting for the BLO to fully cure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, shellac is often recommended as an intermediate layer between different finishes. I'm not sure if shellac would help with the cure time of the BLO, though, but would probably help the poly adhere better to the cured BLO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2021-04-30T12:55:53.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12767" CreationDate="2021-04-30T14:24:29.147" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used cloth adhesive tape. It worked well and probably has a better grip and feel than duct tape. You could also get some sports tape, like that used on hockey stick handles or baseball bats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10342" LastActivityDate="2021-04-30T14:24:29.147" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12775" CreationDate="2021-04-30T15:38:57.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You say that 3 sides fold up, but you didn't show the detail of how the end/side interface works. However, I'm thinking that some sort of decorative hook &amp;amp; clasp might work to hold them in the &amp;quot;up&amp;quot; position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QEpP6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QEpP6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image courtesy of Lowes.com. No recommendation of vendor or individual product implied or intended. For search term purposes, they call it a &amp;quot;gate hook and eye&amp;quot;.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would attach the hook to the &lt;em&gt;edge&lt;/em&gt; one piece and the loop to the &lt;em&gt;edge&lt;/em&gt; of the other, then fold up one corner and hook them. Fold up the other corner and hook them, as well, and all 3 sides should stay up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, you also don't indicate what will be happening when they're up (using it to keep sleeping toddlers from rolling off?), so this may not be secure enough for your purposes, but it will hold. Of course, you don't indicate if you want a hidden solution, which this would not be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used a similar one, though smaller and made of brass, to hold the doors closed on a display case I made a few months back. It was quite suitable for the light duty I had in mind, this one appears to be much sturdier and may be more suitable for your purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2021-04-30T15:38:57.167" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12775" CreationDate="2021-04-30T17:55:42.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use your favourite web client to search for terms like: click-clack hinge, sofa bed mechanism, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many variations on these, but the idea is that they are a hinged locking mechanism with two (or more) resting positions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether or not you can find a set that match your aesthetics is up to you. There are some that are meant to be exposed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you could make a set of simple wooden &amp;quot;locks&amp;quot;, either on a pivot (i.e., like a barn door or outhouse &amp;quot;lock&amp;quot;) or by passing a small beam through two metal or wood brackets. The latter is sort of like those door braces you see in movies depicting medieval castles, which they close to keep out the marauding hordes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2021-04-30T17:55:42.867" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12787" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-02T20:14:13.353" Score="2" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bdyp3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bdyp3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to identity the tool in the photo. The tablet is included for size, it has a 10.5 inch screen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10348" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-05-04T01:04:38.523" LastActivityDate="2021-05-04T01:04:38.523" Title="Hand tool identification" Tags="|hand-tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12788" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-02T22:31:58.663" Score="1" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was doing some work in the chicken coop today, and when it came time to attach the new wire mesh, I had the idea to use the little wooden tabs i had laying around from previous cuts as fasteners. Essentially, I am pinching the mesh to adhere it. It worked really well. However, I have no idea what this could be called. Does using wood like this have an existing name?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NrJ5Y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NrJ5Y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10349" LastActivityDate="2021-05-02T22:31:58.663" Title="What is the name of this type of wooden &quot;fasteners&quot;" Tags="|fasteners|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12787" CreationDate="2021-05-03T10:28:47.943" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is a type of &lt;strong&gt;hook knife&lt;/strong&gt;, commonly used to help hollow wooden spoons, bowls and &lt;em&gt;kuksa&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1jzH0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1jzH0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hook knives&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Source:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.robin-wood.co.uk/wood-craft-blog/2013/01/29/best-spoon-carving-knife-hook-knife/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Robin Wood&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While they have been and still are available commercially many such tools have been made by their users. We can't see the blade clearly enough to be able to guess which is the case here, but often there's no visible difference anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The handle could easily be homemade, because it is mismatched to the tool — as you'll see if you look around more online and in spoon-carving books, hook knives typically have much smaller handles, for a single-handed grip as with most knives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although this one could have been made to provide a longer and fatter grip for some reason it very much looks like it could have been made for another purpose originally. It looks quite like some user-made handles for turning tools (sometimes gripped with two hands, or far back for leverage reasons) but immediately before I posted I realised it could just as easily be one of the pair of handles from garden shears!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can't be sure from the photo whether it is missing its ferrule, a metal ring or cap used to reinforce the juncture between tool handle and blade. As you can see from the image I included not all hook knives actually need ferrules, but this handle was shaped for one to be fitted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-05-03T10:28:47.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12790" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-03T16:46:47.647" Score="-1" ViewCount="184" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have staying and sealed the tongue and groove boards with 2 coats of poly. I need to restack them until the contractor comes to install them. How long should they dry before I do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10358" LastActivityDate="2021-06-02T19:07:10.773" Title="Drying time on line tongue and groove boards" Tags="|finishing|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12790" CreationDate="2021-05-03T18:14:39.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately we can't really provide a good answer because this is 100% about your situation, so there's no generic advice that'll be sure to fit..... other than to wait the full curing time (weeks and weeks) which I assume will not be acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best advice here would be to contact the manufacturer of the poly you used and ask them directly. Provide as much detail as you can in your email — number of coats and how they were applied, and probably most importantly, the temp and humidity where you are — so they can advise based on their knowledge of the product's characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to stack them with the right material in between (e.g. wax paper or the right kind of plastic) the time needed could be a lot shorter. However I don't think there's any way to know, with absolute assurance, what will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-05-03T18:14:39.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12792" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-04T00:48:24.230" Score="2" ViewCount="156" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi guys I am wondering what is the easiest consistent way to cut small pieces of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example I recently recreated and it was a pain the butt. That piece is around 2 inch long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oUSFM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oUSFM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So first mitre cut I did on a mitre saw and it was easy because I was cutting it down from a longer piece so I could hold it with my hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second mitre cut (in hindsight could also be easy if I made the cut in the middle so I could flip it over and comfortable hold the other end to make the cut) but now I had to make on this 2 inch piece that was hard to secure on a mitre saw without getting fingers too close. I made this jig &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XskT3uaYmiM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XskT3uaYmiM&lt;/a&gt; and it was possible though it wasn't fun since it's not super stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FaFYh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FaFYh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally cutting it to width in the end I couldn't use the jig on the mitre saw (even though it had the rip capacity but turning it perpendicular to the fence was impossible to hold in place) so I did it by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/68G6Y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/68G6Y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I was going to do it again I would first cut it to width on a table saw and then make 2 mitre cuts in the middle of a longer piece of wood so I can hold each side with my hand to avoid having to secure small pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But that got me thinking is there no power tool that makes all this easy? I know you can make all kinds of jigs and cut just about anything on a table saw but I would really prefer not to cut small pieces of soft pine on something so powerful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there not mini table saws or mini mitre saws that have design that allows for more clamping? Should I use a band saw with a fence since I can get my fingers a lot closer? What about nicer mitre boxes you see in Lee Valley would they be a good option? Of course cutting by hand is the easiest re: safety/logistics but I still find it hard to get decently aligned cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9309" LastActivityDate="2021-05-04T03:35:24.320" Title="What power tool is best suited to use for small straight cuts?" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12792" CreationDate="2021-05-04T03:35:24.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your specific question about mini saws, I'd say no -- there isn't anything I'm aware of that meets that description.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, one option would be a sliding compound miter saw with a sacrificial table and fence. This is an L of plywood or thicker material (that's well clamped to your saw) that you cut partially but not completely through. You need to build it pretty well in order for it to not to fall apart, so glue at the butt joint and screws where you know you aren't going to hit them with the sawblade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's some terrible art to explain. Viewing from the side, the existing saw fence is red, existing saw table is blue. Sacrificial wood is on top. Strict dimensions don't matter, but the depth is important to keep you from sawing through the entire fence. Workpiece goes onto the green wood (X).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8tcG3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8tcG3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sacrificial fence&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have that, set the angle on the table and lock the slide in a position where it doesn't cut the entire sacrificial fence in half. If your saw has a dado stop, that might help as well, though they aren't always perfect at stopping the downward push at exactly the same height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feed a long stick (ripped to width already) in one side, holding it firmly, and cut the first angle. Flip the stick 180 (barrel roll, not end-for-end) and cut the other angle. (Hoping they're the same. Otherwise this is more awkward.) Once you've cut a few, you'll be able to mark on the fence where you want to line up. Once the stick is down to a foot or so, throw it onto the kindling pile and get another long stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't lose fingers playing with 2&amp;quot; pieces near a miter saw blade. I have gory photos to prove that I know of what I speak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2021-05-04T03:35:24.320" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12794" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-04T20:09:31.233" Score="0" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;We recently acquired a children's castle that was custom made originally. It seems to be completely made of MDF. The stairs are only held together by nails and they are coming apart in certain sections (top left &amp;amp; bottom right).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried pushing it back together and driving the nails back in, but it slides back out on its own over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Vnlq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Vnlq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;staircase photo 1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What options do I have to repair this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some of my initial approaches I was thinking about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wood glue and #8 deck screws but I'm not sure how well that will hold on painted MDF&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create &amp;quot;bridge&amp;quot; underneath the top and bottom with 2x4's. Then screw from the outside into the frame with some large washers to ensure the screw doesn't pass right through&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use metal &amp;quot;L&amp;quot; brackets underneath each problem step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hri9q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hri9q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;gaps&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10364" LastEditorUserId="10364" LastEditDate="2021-05-05T16:06:32.297" LastActivityDate="2021-05-05T16:06:32.297" Title="Options for repairing this children's staircase?" Tags="|wood-repair|mdf|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12795" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-05T01:32:02.090" Score="2" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;It got bent and I need to replace it, there are 2 female parts one attached to sofa frame and one to sofa arm and the male part connects both. Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lQftw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lQftw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/byhZe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/byhZe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lQftw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;enter image description here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DibAI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DibAI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Omi1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Omi1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9309" LastActivityDate="2021-05-10T08:57:18.697" Title="What is this piece of hardware called?" Tags="|furniture|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12796" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12798" CreationDate="2021-05-05T02:32:57.540" Score="1" ViewCount="269" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've built a small office desk and a shoe rack out of pine and now plan to paint both. The most used parts, i.e. table top of the desk and the shelves of the shoe rack are going to be black, the rest will be in white. The desk will be used for work (laptop and stuff) and eating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was planning to apply oil based polyurethane spray (matte finish) over glossy latex paint (already bought all the materials), but then realized that the oil based polyurethane does yellow over time. I kept googling and found out that even water based polycrylic yellows on white paint, and I was planning to cover the furniture pieces in whole. So now I'm pretty confused on what to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it fine if I only apply top coat to the most used (black paint) parts?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will oil based polyurethane visibly yellow over black latex paint? How soon will it happen?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What alternatives do I have?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I don't apply any top coat, how long would my table top &amp;amp; shoe rack shelves paint &amp;quot;live&amp;quot; for on average?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. Water based polyurethane and polycrylic are pretty expensive (and polycrylic is extremely rare) at where I live, and I don't feel like spending that amount of money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10367" LastActivityDate="2021-05-05T09:08:51.710" Title="First time painting furniture - top coat, polyurethane yellowing?" Tags="|tabletop|polyurethane|paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12796" CreationDate="2021-05-05T09:08:51.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it fine if I only apply top coat to the most used (black paint) parts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer this generically, sometimes yes, sometimes no. Adding a clear finish such as lacquer or varnish over paint can offer increased protection, and with some paints this may be needed for the expected use. So a lot depends on the paint chosen.... some paints are more than capable of holding up over extended periods and some high-wear usages without any help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, based on the further description of the paint you bought from the Comments, there's a decent chance it doesn't need overcoating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will oil based polyurethane visibly yellow over black latex paint? How soon will it happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil-based polyurethane is &lt;em&gt;already&lt;/em&gt; slightly yellowish (or more accurately, amber). It just becomes slightly darker and more orange/tan over time with ageing and exposure to light. This darkening takes a few years usually before it's noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, you don't really have to worry about this since you basically can't see a yellowish clear finish over a black background.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two further things to bear in mind however:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The curing period for oil-based poly is long, up to a month. So if you do use it your desk won't be available for normal use, where you don't have to baby it, for at least two weeks and possibly double that, depending on local conditions&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Matt varnishes don't hold up as well as more glossy variants, in terms of maintaining their original look. The main issue is that the matt surface can become buffed by use, leading to glossier areas especially along edges, but even where you commonly rest the heel of your hand using a mouse or over the edge of a laptop can create a shiny spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water based polyurethane and polycrylic&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few application pointers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In case the application guidelines for the paint don't make this plain, it is far preferable to paint multiple thin coats than fewer thicker coats. I would aim to apply four thin coats to the top of the desk, and fewer elsewhere&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the above the first coat can the thinned quite a bit so that it sinks into the wood more deeply. (IME you can do this safely even if the paint's instructions say not to thin the product.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I'm personally a big fan of using foam rollers for applying waterbased paints, but you may not like the subtly textured surface this often produces so would prefer to apply the paint conventionally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; The rule of thumb is that varnish can be considered cured once you can no longer smell it with your nose right by the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; On non-critical surfaces once full coverage was achieved I'd generally stop, unless I was feeling particularly conscientious that day :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-05-05T09:08:51.710" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12799" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-05T14:00:24.150" Score="0" ViewCount="865" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems that at least half of the questions we get about finishing are along the lines of &amp;quot;I don't want any yellowing from my finish&amp;quot;, or &amp;quot;I don't want any yellowing because of aging poly&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just how significant does this tend to be over time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the woodwork in my house is either stained w/no protective coat, or painted (again with no protective coat), so I have no reference to compare original vs aged, or even un-polyed vs polyed surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a significant concern or is it a simple fact that, yes, your polyurethane &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; yellow a bit over time, but you'll never really notice it because it'll happen slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I realize that this may well be opinion based, but chat is too dead to get much of a discussion going. If this is closed as opinion based, I'd love to see some folks in chat to discuss it there.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2021-05-05T14:00:24.150" Title="How significant is the yellowing from aging polyurethane?" Tags="|finishing|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12800" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-05T20:15:20.113" Score="0" ViewCount="230" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made a set of Yahtzee™ dice from a 4x4 post. We have been using a bucket as the 'shaker cup'. I would like to construct a wooden 'cup'.&#xA;My concept is two use two identical rectangular pyramids, the rims of each would have holes bored for magnets in the rim, and the the points cut off, to allow for a handle and so that it can serve as a decorative storage container for the dice when not in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan on using slats of 1/2”x 3&amp;quot; aspen side by side with chamfered edges to make up each of the 4 'walls' of the pyramid. I'm struggling with figuring out how to join the edges of my pyramids.. biscuits.. four 1.5&amp;quot;x1 5&amp;quot; strips with angled rabbets cut out? I'm thinking this is the way to go, but trying to consider the various angles involved and how to transfer them to the wood.. it's making my head spin a little bit!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JRZht.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JRZht.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you all for the help, and sorry the pic isn't the best, it's what I was able to quickly come up with on my phone&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10374" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2021-05-06T14:26:51.447" LastActivityDate="2021-05-06T14:26:51.447" Title="Building a rectangular pyramid" Tags="|wood|joinery|dado|joints|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12801" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-06T16:05:17.827" Score="2" ViewCount="486" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm designing a red oak table with 3&amp;quot; thick legs. I haven't found anywhere local where I can source 3&amp;quot; thick red oak boards, and the cost would probably be prohibitive anyway. So I thought I'd make them out of some leftover plywood that I'll have from the tabletop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I'm thinking of doing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pHrMf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pHrMf.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The core could be two 1.5&amp;quot; strips of plywood glued together, two solid oak boards, or a cheap piece of 2x2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty new to woodworking, so I'm not sure if I'll run in to problems with this design. I know that getting the miters and the gluing perfect will be difficult, I'll have to do several test runs with scrap wood first (if 'difficult' is a understatement, let me know).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/skills/tlegs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; site that describes an almost identical process, so it seems doable at least, though they're using solid wood in that article.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I own a table saw, miter saw, and router, but I don't have a jointer or planer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will these legs be durable if made this way?&#xA;Does it matter if I use softwood for the core, or should I stick to oak core?&#xA;Is there a better or easier way to make thick oak table legs without access to thick boards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10370" LastActivityDate="2021-05-07T20:17:56.130" Title="I'd like to make 3&quot; thick table legs using 3/4&quot; oak veneer core plywood. Will this design work?" Tags="|plywood|table-making|hardwood|miter-joint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="22" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12802" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12803" CreationDate="2021-05-06T18:48:50.890" Score="3" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking into buying a nail gun to help when assembling my projects - holding them in place while glue dries or I have the chance to secure with screws; the only issue is that I have no experience with nail guns so I'm not exactly sure which avenue to go down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that all things 16 gauge is a no-go when it comes to finer woodworking, so it comes down to 18 or 23 gauge. Naturally I would like as few holes to fill as possible however I am unsure of the viability of using a 23 gauge nailer for &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; of my needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For context, I am a hobbyist with no workshop - I set up an occasional table in the garden that I try to put as few holes in as possible. The things I build are never too extravagant and I never usually go above 18mm plywood/MDF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help/guidance would be much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8149" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-05-07T08:10:26.930" LastActivityDate="2021-05-07T08:10:26.930" Title="Can a 23g nail gun satisfy all of my needs?" Tags="|finishing|nailing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12802" CreationDate="2021-05-07T04:04:42.057" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are bound to be disappointed by the limitations of a 23g pinner. (Headless or not.) Pins just don't have the holding power. Plus, you're paying a premium to get one that'll handle long (&amp;gt;1-3/8) pins. And they break faster than an 18g gun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;18g, on the other hand, is a workhorse. Baseboard? Yup. Casing? Yup. Holding things in place while the glue sets? Mostly. Holding the tiny return piece on the end of the stool while the glue sets? Nope. (That's where the pinner comes in.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everybody is different, and your needs can vary. You'll probably end up with both guns eventually anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my world, my 18g guns come out at least 20 times more often than my 23g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS, @graphus is right that you don't &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; a nail gun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2021-05-07T04:04:42.057" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12795" CreationDate="2021-05-07T09:12:24.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are known as furniture connectors. Search for &amp;quot;furniture connector slider&amp;quot; and you might find a suitable design for yours. But I believe you might me able to straighten your part by hammer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10390" LastEditorUserId="10390" LastEditDate="2021-05-10T08:57:18.697" LastActivityDate="2021-05-10T08:57:18.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12801" CreationDate="2021-05-07T16:49:09.570" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is a lot of miters to match up. I did it the lazy way, I used 4 X 4 oak cribbing. It is used by trucks and RR to secure loads . I friend was able to get me a couple of new ones with no holes . I ran then through a planer ; getting use of a planer is the catch. I think it could be done on a joiner ( I have a 6&amp;quot; but never ran anything that big through it ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3966" LastActivityDate="2021-05-07T16:49:09.570" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12801" CreationDate="2021-05-07T20:02:05.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience getting nice miter joints would be the most difficult way to get these.  if done well, likely the 'prettiest' way to do it.  I also think trying to get have it 'filled in' with the center core would raise the difficulty, since with a hollow center you'd have more wriggle room to try and align your miter cuts.  In and out back and forth etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 'easiest' way in my opinion would be to just laminate your 3/4&amp;quot; boards together, face to face until you reach desired thickness (4 for 3&amp;quot;).  (and in the middle you can get away with lower quality faces since you won't see them).  Clamping them good and tight many, wouldn't be able to tell the difference between glued up boards and a single 3x3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory you could even glue up 2 or more legs at once with wider boards (6.5 or 9.5&amp;quot;) etc. then cut them down. However the wider the surface you try to glue face to face the more 'pressure across the face you will need, ie not just around the edges.  There is a name for the cross pieces (they are slightly convex) to push pressure across the whole face, just don't remember what that is right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But laminating the legs to desired thickness is perfectly reasonable and doesn't require much more material (after all the mitering) and is certainly much easier to get right and look nice.  (IMO)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ETA&#xA;if only veneer is available, can try doing butt joints (in circle) then you will only have 1 narrow face to use veneer strips on on each side of the leg.  this might be a satisfactory alternative to the miter joints.  certainly easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2021-05-07T20:17:56.130" LastActivityDate="2021-05-07T20:17:56.130" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12807" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-08T02:55:37.383" Score="1" ViewCount="209" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been reading a lot of forum posts on woodworking since I'm very new at it, and a common point I read is that wood needs to be glued soon after surfacing it or else it'll warp. It has left me confused about how I would make something like a solid piece table leg, where it isn't glued to anything along most of its length, without worrying about it warping over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For something like that, would I have to buy the wood raw, leave it for a while in the place where it will be used so that it does all the warping it's going to do, and then finish it? How do I know when wood is done warping? Is wood ever done warping?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10370" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-05-09T10:08:18.043" LastActivityDate="2021-05-13T14:39:44.047" Title="What determines whether a board will warp or stay straight?" Tags="|warp|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12807" CreationDate="2021-05-08T03:32:18.400" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR: Wood Never Sleeps.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood is a natural product, with natural variation across species and individuals. Not only that, but how timber is grown and processed into dimension lumber also varies. And then that dimension lumber is subject to environmental changes over time (both before and after it is turned into a project) that causes it to move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The why of this could be a whole thesis, and there are plenty of resources out there that discuss this in depth. But the short answer is that wood is &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; finished moving because that's the way wood is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, wood will move a lot across the grain, where the alternating growth rings form a &amp;quot;sandwich&amp;quot; of density variation in the material. It will move very little along the grain. Woodworking has to take this into consideration, which is why cupboards and doors and carcases and butcher blocks are typically made the way they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also why timber is cut the way it is into lumber. For construction grade we don't really care overmuch about bowing, twisting, and cupping. We want it to be cheap and hold fasteners, and be easy to transport and cut. Hence, lighter and quick growing softwoods like pine and fir flat-sawn directly to near-dimension and then quickly kiln-seasoned is fine. For musical instrument necks we want strength and minimal movement, so &amp;quot;quarter-sawn&amp;quot; hardwoods seasoned for decades or more in humidity controlled rooms are what we want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Craft woodworking strikes a balance between these extremes. Carcase construction often uses rougher pieces. (Even antique pieces by master cabinetmakers often have nasty, knotty junk hidden inside them somewhere.) But if you want a solid wood tabletop to not cup and twist the first winter in your house you will have to pay attention to what different wood wants to do, and what you can do to mitigate that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, not every piece of timber can be sawn into arbitrary lengths of perfect clear lumber. Trees grow unevenly over the years, so the growth rings are going to be imperfect, which leads to imperfect grain in lumber. Wood has internal stresses because it is a natural product that was grown under imperfect and chaotic conditions. These internal stresses are often only exposed once the timber is sawn into lumber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why lumber intended for woodworking goes through a fair amount of seasoning. The idea is that we let the gross movements work their way out. Over time this movement (ideally) becomes smaller and smaller. Though, the challenge is that sawing lumber down to nominal dimensions can sometimes release stresses that were once balanced, leading to more movement. You'll notice that this is why and how lumber is &amp;quot;graded&amp;quot;. As it seasons, some timber (and lumber) will inevitably settle into more or less ideal product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As woodworkers we can try to minimize this movement. We can try to work within the parameters of this movement. We can try to plan for this movement. We can coat the piece in various finishes to slow the environmental impact on it. We can even consider a project &amp;quot;finished&amp;quot; insofar as it will &lt;em&gt;probably&lt;/em&gt; not move so much as to no longer work or hold together. But the fact is that, depending on the environment where the project lives, it will continue to move and change over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the nature of the movement, you can often use fasteners and adhesives to counter the movement (this is, after all, what veneers and plywood are all about). If you think about it, all you are doing is engineering a way to counter the stress this movement causes in the piece so that it isn't obvious. But the single most important way to handle this movement is to know it will happen, and select your wood and construction technique to minimize the overall effect this movement will have on the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other cases there is literally nothing you can do to keep lumber from moving, even if you &amp;quot;glue it and screw it&amp;quot;. A poorly built table using cheap flat-sawn lumber is probably going to cup and twist, and the legs will never sit square on the floor; and there isn't much a woodworker can do to stop this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way wood moves has informed nearly every single aspect of woodworking, from timber selection, milling, seasoning, joinery, jointing, and design. Not to mention the acceptance that every woodworker needs to come to terms with: that all their creations eventually fall apart into the dust from whence they came.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-05-13T14:39:44.047" LastActivityDate="2021-05-13T14:39:44.047" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12809" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-09T04:33:40.397" Score="2" ViewCount="258" Body="&lt;p&gt;Often I find myself fixing a failed rail of an arm chair or a part of a sofa that is inserted between plywood walls and holds the legs. Something like this, those red circles are butt joints where end grain of a front rail meets 2 sheets of plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EBXX1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EBXX1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now because most furniture is made the way it is made 90% of the time that joint consists of a spit of wood glue with a few 2-3 inch staples applied from the outside that goes through the plywood into the end grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I work on location so repair needs to be quick and the joint is hidden so I am not planning to use any kind of joinery that requires hand cutting. But stability is of course a factor given the fact that often that railing is what the legs are screwed into and it being a chair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typical repair is remove the dried out dab of glue do a good application covering entire surface make sure it's a good fit and put in a few screw from the outside in to replace the staples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CNOzt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CNOzt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I realize that traditionally this is not a strong joint, but it does hold well (so does the Chinese dab of glue and a few staples to be honest since that's how 90% of factory furniture is made). But I would like to do my repairs as strong as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, is it advisable to switch to pocket holes for this type of repair? Is there significant structural improvement? It is relatively quick to do and inexpensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I watched a few joinery overviews and my takeaway was that aside from cutting mortises which are not time feasible and a few other hand cut joinery the only 2 good fast and dirty options were pocket screws and Festool dominos (with dowels and splices performing about the same as just glue).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What threw me off was this video &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ERXdLDudBnw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ERXdLDudBnw&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In which typical butt joint screws outperformed pocket hole screws like so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lngiI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lngiI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an explanation of why that happened in this particular experiment? Is this an anomaly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. This post is about pocket hole screws and I want to keep it on point but as a follow up in your opinion does adding either metal corner braces or gluing in wood braces in the inner corner further improve stability? Or is it a waste of time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ofc5z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ofc5z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qcw3Q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qcw3Q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9309" LastActivityDate="2021-05-09T04:58:47.003" Title="Pocket holes for fixing chairs?" Tags="|furniture|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12809" CreationDate="2021-05-09T04:58:47.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen other videos testing pocket screws, which also did not have them perform favourably compared to simple screwed butt joints. The primary benefit of a pocket screw joint is that the fixing can be hidden (depending on the application) - they are not a particularly strong joint. If the joint is going to be hidden or it otherwise doesn't matter what it looks like then there is never any reason to make it a pocket screw joint IMO. Just stick with what's faster, easier, stronger and doesn't require any special tooling, i.e. a screwed butt joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bracket or braces should make the joint stronger, yes. It depends what kind of forces you're primarily trying to resist though. If you're guarding against racking forces (which you might be to some extent with a chair) then a wooden corner bracket will help the most, if it's simply the shear or straight-pull apart of the joint then I would think that a metal strap bracket like you've shown will give more strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2021-05-09T04:58:47.003" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12811" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-10T15:28:38.430" Score="2" ViewCount="628" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to attach two 5'6&amp;quot; red oak boards together as part of a table, both 3&amp;quot; x 0.75&amp;quot; at a 90 degree angle, like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zMY1b.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zMY1b.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was planning on gluing them and adding some pocket screws on the inside, since it'll be hidden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if this will cause problems in the long run if the boards expand or contract. I'm also not sure if the pocket screws help at all, or if they're redundant as long as I clamp it enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10370" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-05-13T14:30:31.530" LastActivityDate="2021-05-13T14:30:31.530" Title="Is gluing a long butt joint risky?" Tags="|joinery|glue|butt-joint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12811" CreationDate="2021-05-10T18:02:34.420" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The top board will expand left to right, but not significantly in the relatively small area of the glue joint itself. The bottom board will expand up and down, but not significantly in thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do the joint purely with glue if you desire - joints were glued only for a long time. Screws &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be added but aren't necessary. Think of them as additional clamps for while the glue sets up. The only difference is that you don't remove them when the glue has dried. If you expect a large amount of stress on this particular joint, for example, you expect someone or something to be pushing against that bottom board with notable pressure, then some screws would provide extra confidence that the joint won't come apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2021-05-10T18:02:34.420" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12813" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-10T22:39:56.520" Score="1" ViewCount="126" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to wrap my head around how to turn a wooden vise screw on the lathe (around 3 to 6 TPI) . I've looked at Thread chasing and a few jigs, but the have a few problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thread chasing appears to only be for small length high TPI threads&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The threading jigs I've found ( purchased or otherwise appear to do short distances and high TPI as well)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The router jigs appear to be a valid option but I can't find a purchased or plans for how to attach a router to the lathe bed...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been looking at how it's done on a metal working lathe and it appears quite simple, the main drawback on the wood lathe is the lack of a lead screw, I have debated hooking up a stepper motor with a lead screw and attaching a cross slide vise on the lathe but it just seems like this should be easier and I'm missing something fundamental....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I basically want to have a system that will allow me to turn a wooden thread ( external AND Internal ) with relative ease and not being tied to an existing lead screw for the TPI...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this makes sense and someone can point me in the right direction....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like this is what I'm trying to make:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QvDCg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QvDCg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wood Vice screw&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.theenglishwoodworker.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/maguire-wooden-vice-screw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.theenglishwoodworker.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/maguire-wooden-vice-screw.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S I know I could get or make a tap and die set for wood but they are over 800 euros...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fine-tools.com/gewind.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.fine-tools.com/gewind.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL;DR is I'm trying to create a 3tpi screw vise on the wood lathe and can't figure out how to do it....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5498" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2021-05-11T01:03:41.010" LastActivityDate="2021-05-11T01:03:41.010" Title="Turning vise screws?" Tags="|vises|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12814" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12816" CreationDate="2021-05-11T01:18:17.977" Score="0" ViewCount="90" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm curious about this mainly because i saw it being mentioned on woodworking.SE's posts, and some other sites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, I always thought that wood could have &amp;quot;wood&amp;quot; movement, especially over time (e.g: aging) or when other factors such as moisture or molds are taken into account.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking into account the example I mentioned above (aging, moisture, mold) is it still true that wood movement is unlikely? Even longitudinally?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10413" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-05-11T08:47:44.187" LastActivityDate="2021-05-11T20:08:12.777" Title="Does wood truly not have any movement to speak of longitudinally?" Tags="|wood|wood-movement|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12814" CreationDate="2021-05-11T13:00:22.613" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;TL;DR: It depends, but generally we can ignore longitudinal movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is that &lt;em&gt;compared with the movement across the grain&lt;/em&gt; movement along the grain is much smaller, and is often negligible for the purposes of planning for that movement in a build.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is especially true at the scales woodworkers work with. I'm sure examples of longitudinal movement across giant spans in wood bridges meant that at that scale it would have to be taken into consideration. But this is &lt;em&gt;generally&lt;/em&gt; not the case for most woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, the cross-grain movement is so large it is the one we often care about most, or at all. But it is moving on those other axes as well. At the end of the day some of this movement might be less than the margin of accuracy we can get when working wood, in which case we simplify and say it doesn't move along that axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-05-11T20:08:12.777" LastActivityDate="2021-05-11T20:08:12.777" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12817" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-11T13:13:27.653" Score="0" ViewCount="499" Body="&lt;p&gt;I plan on making a large l-shaped desk out of an ikea counter top and a desktop then making legs out of 2x4s. I was planning on integrating shelves onto the desk legs as regular drawer unit can get expennsive(see pictures below). Im afraid of the table swaying or racking(I think thats the right term) and was wondering if I could use paracord to diagnolly brace the legs to prevent this as Ive heard that steel cable can be used, but its expenisve&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qf8D3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qf8D3.png&quot; alt=&quot;this is what i am planning with the diagnol braces&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/57js2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/57js2.png&quot; alt=&quot;and this is it from the back&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Im using the 98¨LILLTRÄSK and the ~40¨ linnmon for the tops with 2x4s for the legs. the diaganol lines you see is about where I would roughly put the paracord. I was also thinking about some L-shaped brackets to join the 2x4s and the legs together. but would the paracord be enough or should i use some steel cable/find some other way to prevent racking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nB1L6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nB1L6.png&quot; alt=&quot;brackets i may use&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Im making the design on a website called sketchup and it the formats it says i can export it are ¨3ds¨ ¨collada¨ ¨dwg¨ in 3d and 2d ¨dxf¨ 3d and 2d ¨fbx¨ ¨kmz¨ ¨obj¨ ¨vrml¨ and ¨xsL¨ im not sure what would be best. I may update the question if its needed. And thanks for any help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10102" LastActivityDate="2021-10-08T18:14:01.523" Title="Can I use paracord to prevent a Large desk from racking?" Tags="|strength|table-making|racking|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12817" CreationDate="2021-05-11T15:04:27.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your paracord idea will work great for cross-bracing to prevent racking, &lt;em&gt;IF&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't stretch. (I did a quick search on paracord and couldn't come up with anything indicating how stretchy it is/isn't.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can pull it tight. For this, you'll need some sort of turnbuckle or a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.netknots.com/rope_knots/tautline-hitch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tautline hitch knot&lt;/a&gt; to tighten it. I used to use the tautline hitch when camping to pull the ropes tight to the tent stakes - it works quite well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be a bit overkill on the amount of diagonal bracing you've designed in, but better too much than not enough! If you wanted, you could probably do one diagonal at each corner and try that. If it's not stable enough, add another diagonal. Lather, rinse, repeat until you get satisfaction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shelf supports would be a good way to attach the legs to the desktop(s). Do be &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; aware that most IKEA desktops are hollow-core. That means that there's a cardboard grid between the top &amp;amp; bottom layers. It's great for resisting compression, like when you set your monitor or elbows on top of the desk. It will &lt;em&gt;NOT&lt;/em&gt; hold a screw, though. Usually, there's about 1&amp;quot; or so of solid material around the outside edges of the desk. You &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; put all your screws into this solid material, or they just won't hold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2021-05-11T15:04:27.870" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12820" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-12T18:31:35.387" Score="0" ViewCount="321" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hardware used:&lt;/strong&gt; tablesaw with flat kerf blade, kerfmaker, tablesaw sled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Premise:&lt;/strong&gt; I've made a kerfmaker and have been very pleased with it in making dados on short boards.  However, I' m at a loss on how to use it when making dados in the middle of long boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt; How do I use the tools that I have, to make dados in longer boards, such as sides for cabinet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1187" LastActivityDate="2021-10-11T08:08:30.833" Title="Tablesaw dados on long boards with kerfmaker" Tags="|table-saw|dado|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10780" CreationDate="2021-05-13T15:22:24.077" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is actually a pretty common technique when making panels from smaller pieces, or it certainly was in the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you have discovered, it makes for nice contrast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanically it is just as strong as any other panel you might make, allowing for careful jointing and glue-up. With today's excellent glues and correct clamping a panel like this is as good as a single-species panel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My only caveat is that this technique was more common in the age before cheap sandpaper, and for good reason. Often such panels were planed after glue-up, and then maybe scraped smooth if finish planing wasn't possible (or you wanted the hand-scraped feel).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless care is taking with your sanding technique, powered sanders will tend to remove more of the softer woods, creating waves across the panel that correspond to the lighter and darker strips. This can create a situation where the woodworker ends up chasing level, removing way too much material in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A longer sanding board with a light hand would have been the order of the day back then. Being &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; careful with even lighter orbital sanders would be advised. Or skip sanding except for the &lt;em&gt;lightest&lt;/em&gt; pre-finishing, and in between coats of finish, letting the plane or scaper define level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2021-05-13T15:22:24.077" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9869" CreationDate="2021-05-13T15:35:51.377" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;From the comments:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is referred to as a bushing or guide bushing (occasionally a collar), used for various routing tasks that involve templates of one form or another. It should be described clearly in the documentation that came with the router, although it will only give you a hint as to how it can be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2021-05-13T15:35:51.377" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12823" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-13T16:15:03.103" Score="1" ViewCount="1446" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not going to buy one, but I'm curious...I saw one for sale on Craigslist and did a search on it (was thinking of using it for dado cuts).  Saw lots of postings about the dangers of the saw lurching towards you because of the climbing cut (even during a dado cut).  So what?  Not one posting explains why this situation is so dangerous on a RAS (I understand why catching wood on a table saw is).  As long as you don't do something dumb like put your hand in front of the blade, the blade/head assembly will stop when it reaches the end.  Isn't that end/stop collar solidly attached so there's no way the head &amp;amp; blade can come flying off towards you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never used one--do you lean over enough so your head could get hit (and render you unconscious)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the forward force so strong it can't be stopped?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a nice website where people listed their accidents (and exactly what they were doing and what went wrong).  Half were caused by doing something dumb and most of the other half were rip or molding cuts.  However, there was one crosscut where the fence split and caused a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So...does someone know why all these people claim it's so dangerous for crosscuts and dado cuts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8805" LastEditorUserId="8805" LastEditDate="2021-05-13T20:49:08.297" LastActivityDate="2021-05-17T15:41:58.460" Title="Why do people claim a Radial Arm Saw is so dangerous (making dado cuts)?" Tags="|safety|radial-arm-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10494" CreationDate="2021-05-13T18:15:07.397" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hide glue intended for permanent construction (i.e., probably &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; something like fish or rabbit glue) is strong enough for many applications. It bridges gaps quite well, and rarely discolours the surrounding wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a low strength application like mitred picture frames, it'll be more than strong enough. Not as strong as modern PVA glues, certainly, but for indoor low-strength stuff like this it'll be fine. Certainly, you don't need the gap-filling abilities of hide glue in this application: you should be aiming for nice thin mitred joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most typical glues used in woodworking are &amp;quot;non-toxic&amp;quot; by any scientific measurement once cured, and that includes most of the PVA glues on the market. By the same measurements, few things in life are completely &amp;quot;natural&amp;quot;, though I suppose traditional hide glues will biodegrade completely (but who knows about the convenience &amp;quot;hide&amp;quot; glues you can buy pre-bottled and ready to go these days). I assume PVA will degrade to tiny particles of &amp;quot;PV&amp;quot;, adding to the cloud of micro-plastics we are currently swimming in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2021-05-13T18:15:07.397" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6156" CreationDate="2021-05-13T20:32:32.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally I always rip my boards before jointing.  There is nothing worse than getting a 4 or 5 Inch board true on 2 sides then rip it and you get 2 hockey sticks.....cut to length, rip to width joint and plans to perfection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10434" LastEditorUserId="839" LastEditDate="2021-07-06T18:43:34.110" LastActivityDate="2021-07-06T18:43:34.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12823" CreationDate="2021-05-13T23:29:13.007" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Radial arm saws always climb-cut. This means that all that radial energy in the cutting edge wants to drag the piece into the fence; it basically feeds itself into the work, causing the operator to need to hold it back. Climb-cuts are special because no matter what the material is, the cutting edge will find a way to make it easier: climbing &lt;em&gt;out&lt;/em&gt; of the cut and across the work. It is, obviously, the path of least resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now add a dado stack to that, with its large surface area of cutters and chip-breakers. A dado stack definitely does &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; want to go through the stock, when it can move only a few millimetres up and go &lt;em&gt;across&lt;/em&gt; the stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The operator has to control a cutting head that wants to move toward you, and up. But the operator also has to &lt;em&gt;pull&lt;/em&gt; the cutting head through the material and keep it in the material. These are three different directions that the operator has to guide a 3500 RPM stacked carbide cutting head through, at least two of them in opposite directions, and one perpendicular to the others. If you know anything about how humans control the forces in their bodies, you'll notice this is a Bad Idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why many woodworkers will tell you that cutting dadoes with a radial arm saw is a bad idea. The forces acting on the piece, and the requirements put upon the operator to do this safely, make for a very interesting situation. It is primarily interesting because the vectors of movement change in unpredictable ways much faster than any human can react.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are ways to make this a less interesting situation. Make shallow cuts. Watch your feed rate. Cut thinner dadoes, or cut them in multiple passes. Engage any new-fangled safety attachments (which are all there to try and mitigate the failure modes just discussed) properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And assume it is going to climb up out of knot or some weird grain one day and there ain't nothing you can do about that. Any whirling blade will want to drag a hand into it, of course. The difference here is &lt;em&gt;how&lt;/em&gt; that whirling blade wants to do it, and how you might be &lt;em&gt;pushing&lt;/em&gt; slightly against that force when it suddenly changes direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main purpose of any power tool is to separate the meat from the unwary operator. Why people specifically warn against radial arm saws and dado stacks is because there are slightly more ways for the tool to do this thing it wants to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We won't discuss rip-cutting lengths using a radial arm saw. There are so many better ways of doing this, and so many excellent examples showing why this is a bad idea. If you think table saw kick-back is exciting, just watch how much force can be applied to a piece of wood on a radial arm table when that radial energy is converted into linear motion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know why anyone would warn against cross-cutting. About the only thing radial arm saws excel at are being portable enough to cross-cut all day to make rafters or whatever. (Though I guess those folks would use &amp;quot;chop saws&amp;quot; which deliberately control for the problems with climb-cutting.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, if you are experienced and follow the rules, accidents using power tools is a &amp;quot;low probability, high consequence&amp;quot; situation. For radial arm saws and dado stacks, people smarter than me consider it a higher probability situation with the same consequence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-05-17T15:41:58.460" LastActivityDate="2021-05-17T15:41:58.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12820" CreationDate="2021-05-14T07:12:38.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's often the case that it's best not to use the table saw to do dados (UK: housing joints) on stock above a certain size because of the difficulty in manoeuvring wide pieces&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, the safety aspect, and the lack of support to &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt; sides of the saw table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The risk assessment is up to each person to make, and the last can be addressed with permanent or temporary wings if space in the shop allows but....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, the modern approach to this is to use a router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Router&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You fit the router with a straight-cutting bit&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, and either run it along a straightedge (which can just be a carefully selected straight piece of wood clamped to the workpiece), the blade of a T-square built for this purpose, or using a dado jig that captures the base of the router and eliminates the risk of it wandering off the line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not only does the router allow for cutting grooves on stock of any length it's fundamentally a safer method all around (safer for the operator), and can more easily achieve stopped dados (and rebates/rabbets) where needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hand tools&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If a power router isn't in your toolkit and not currently on the shopping list&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; there's always the fallback of doing this manually. Many people baulk at doing grooves by hand but it's a very useful technique to know, since it can be adapted to cutting them in pieces of literally any size, including very small or very large that it would be difficult to envisage tackling them via a power tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic tools for this are a knife, crosscut backsaw, chisel and (not essential but highly desirable) a hand router. One legitimate objection here is that hand routers, even secondhand, have become more expensive than the majority of power routers most leisure woodworkers would buy (!!) however, a basic but serviceable router can be built in a single afternoon from one or two scraps of wood, a spare Allen key and a machine screw or bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Wide meaning long pieces sideways in this context.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Be careful &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; to assume that e.g. a 3/4&amp;quot; bit will match your 3/4&amp;quot; stock. Unless you're using solid wood that you've four-squared yourself bought material should always be assumed to have nominal dimensions, or even approximate since they can vary somewhat piece to piece...... or worse, vary place to place within the same board in the case of some modern plywood!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; In which case I should mention: &lt;em&gt;most versatile single power tool&lt;/em&gt;. No modern power-tool workshop should be without one, and hybrid woodworkers should probably add it to the must-have column.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-05-14T07:12:38.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12774" CreationDate="2021-05-14T10:06:27.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks to everyone who replied! In the end, @Graphus was right. It turns out that sometimes all you need is some WD-40 and good old brute force. The fastener came loose after a bit of convincing with a hammer, and thankfully the wood was not split or damaged further. Success!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10330" LastActivityDate="2021-05-14T10:06:27.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12829" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12842" CreationDate="2021-05-14T17:04:51.850" Score="5" ViewCount="502" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought and set up my first ever bandsaw, a Laguna  14/12. While I understand that bandsaws make rougher cuts than, say, a table saw, my new saw is leaving quite a rough surface given the fineness of the blade I’m using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here’s what I’ve done so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bought a third party blade (13mm wide, with 4tpi)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tensioned the blade so that it deflects about 5mm when I press it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tracked the blade so that the teeth are nearly centered on the tires, based on advice from the internet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;set up the blade and the guides to the best of my ability, such that they are very close but not touching&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some test rips I did, in walnut and construction pine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rrzAf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rrzAf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;walnut&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FalSb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FalSb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;construction pine&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the problem likely the choice of blade or setup? Or is this normal for a brand new bandsaw/blade?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10105" LastActivityDate="2021-06-28T17:18:54.220" Title="How do I troubleshoot a bandsaw cut?" Tags="|band-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12830" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-14T19:22:54.460" Score="-1" ViewCount="266" Body="&lt;p&gt;The idea of the miter lock was to be able to create long rectangular tubes of wood that would have strong, perfect joints. The challenge of using miter lock bits was significant though. Adjustment of the miterlock has to be perfect and the wood must be very consistent in thickness, etc. Also, miter locks have a significant surface area, so a lot of wood gets removed when routing out a miter lock joint with all the consequent high forces and pressures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if all of this is now irrelevant, now that modern glues are &amp;quot;stronger than the wood itself&amp;quot;? Is there any advantage to use this complex joint over just gluing up a normal 45-degree mitre joint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastEditorUserId="503" LastEditDate="2021-05-15T04:08:50.113" LastActivityDate="2021-05-16T17:45:27.810" Title="Do modern glues make miter lock joints obsolete?" Tags="|joinery|glue|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12831" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12832" CreationDate="2021-05-15T02:26:27.447" Score="2" ViewCount="203" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a picture below but I'll try to describe it as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where two pieces of wood cross over and touch face to face. They are fastened with glue, nails, etc. One piece may overlap the other (see edges of pallet) or not (see corner of pallet). Note that the pieces are not cut - apart from to length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you call this joint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dhzZ4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dhzZ4.png&quot; alt=&quot;pallet joint&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1125" LastActivityDate="2021-05-15T08:53:56.130" Title="What is the name of this simple joint?" Tags="|terminology|joints|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12831" CreationDate="2021-05-15T08:53:56.130" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is actually sort of in the wording of the Question, these are a type of &lt;em&gt;overlap joint&lt;/em&gt;, sometimes called an &lt;em&gt;overlay joint&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the pieces of wood don't interlock in any manner it makes construction very fast, but it's little used outside of rough carpentry. In a 'proper woodworking' context you might only see this used for the construction of shop furniture, or utility shelving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately these days the overlap joint is being mixed up with the &lt;em&gt;lap joint&lt;/em&gt; (such as in the Wikipedia entry *sigh*) but, in woodworking at least, a lap joint is exclusively where one or both pieces have cut joinery and the two pieces don't merely lay on top of each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-05-15T08:53:56.130" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12836" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-16T04:26:40.313" Score="2" ViewCount="418" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently repairing table leg pedestal. Legs are pretty snug with the base with a dowel and I cleaned out all the old glue so it should be a very good glue joint on it's own. However I also wanted to put in a screw through the leg into the pedestal, belt and suspenders kind of thing. It's the red lines in the photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7oqI4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7oqI4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not know what kind of wood this pedestal is made of but I am reasonably sure it is a hardwood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is where all the fun started, I have a decent hammer drill with a 1/8 12 inch bit for predrills. Normally it works well but not here. It was smoking a lot I had to make a few passes in and out and eventually the long bit got stuck in the wood so I had to spend good 15 minutes screwing it out with pliers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/guGvm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/guGvm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The screws with their little #2 heads kept slipping off and it was virtually impossible to drive in the screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6YUML.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6YUML.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Than I had the bright idea to increase the size of the pilot hole. The length of the screw required another aircraft length bit so I purchased a 3/16th which was the next smallest step up. A lot of companies don't even make that gradation, for example the company that makes the 1/8th I have jumps up to 3/8ths as the next step up &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B001AHSVGM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AHSVGM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;amp;psc=1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I don't know what is the next drill bit size up or if it's available in the length to drill 4 inch holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3/16ths I got turned out to be significantly thicker than 2/16th (1/8) and after drill it both 8 and 10 diameter screws would freely slide into the hole. Fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point I gave up with the reinforcing idea and used a whole bunch of clamps to make sure it was a good glue joint and called it a day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What was I doing wrong? Is there an approach to reinforce hardwood with longer screws like in this repair?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9309" LastActivityDate="2021-05-16T17:10:18.713" Title="How to put long screws (3-4inch into hardwood)" Tags="|furniture|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12836" CreationDate="2021-05-16T17:10:18.713" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What was I doing wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well in drilling you could probably have done with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;much more frequently withdrawing the bit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A more powerful drill. Cordlesses aren't exactly known for their grunt, and many are not the match of an 'equivalent'  corded drill.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Twist drills (and many lip-and-spur/brad-point bits, which are roughly similar beyond the tip shape) are famous for packing solid with wood swarf, and the deeper the hole the more and more likely this becomes because eventually there is no more flute for the waste to travel up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the grooves are packed, or completely filled, further progress becomes nearly impossible and stuck or broken bits can result. Prior to this smoking is a warning sign to look out for, although some of that is just the inevitable shaft rubbing against the inside of the hole&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then once it came time to inserting the screw:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lubricating it first; soap, oil or a fat of some kind, grease, and wax have all be recommended for this by one source or another and all work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Again using a more powerful tool (e.g. a brace) to drive it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lubricating screws, especially when being driven in to hardwoods and even more especially with long screws, used to be standard advice but is now becoming lost for various reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While braces may not be really practical for driving large numbers of screws in a production environment for occasional situations they can still be a valuable part of the toolkit. They make &lt;em&gt;exceptional&lt;/em&gt; screw-drivers as I briefly described in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/11238/unknown-tool-from-auger-bits-set/11239#11239&quot;&gt;a previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;. You'll probably want to keep at least one brace around, even if only for driving screws, once you've experienced how pleasurably easy&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; they make it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you ask about pilot hole sizing in the Comments, regrettably there is no one guideline here. The Internet is lousy with pilot-hole sizing guidelines, some of them reprinted from old shop manuals and the like which would typically have two columns or two separate tables, for hardwoods and softwoods respectively. But unfortunately such tables aren't completely consistent, and perhaps we shouldn't expect this because it's not like all hardwoods and softwoods are the same hardnesses!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So sometimes it's a case of just trying some sizes (assuming you have a range of bits available that are approximately in the right range) and seeing what works best. As a general guideline it's far preferable to drill a slightly undersize hole than one that is even fractionally too large, as an oversize hole leads to a &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; weaker grip in the second piece of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where a table is not to hand, the rule of thumb is to match the pilot hole bit to the root diameter of the threads; while you can measure this just eyeballing can be good enough in many cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't forget clearance holes! If used, the clearance hole should be larger than the pilot (large enough that the threading can't engage &lt;em&gt;at all&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The better fix&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;There are different philosophies of repair and reinforcement of furniture, and a lot of it is just individual judgement calls. But many pros do their best to avoid screws where they aren't an integral part of the original design, on reason being that over time they have a nasty habit of working loose. Unless they've rusted into place, which is another problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here, you had two quite large long-grain surfaces which potentially make for the ideal glueing situation. So just glueing and clamping could have been sufficient, providing &lt;em&gt;plenty&lt;/em&gt; of clamping force could be applied during the glue-up if using a PVA-type glue or foaming polyurethane. Or, as you've done, using epoxy instead if very strong clamping couldn't be arranged and/or the glue surfaces were in any way gappy (because epoxy is a good gap-filler while the previous two adhesives are not).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If further reinforcement were deemed necessary — and given there's no actual joint here, as would have been traditional, there's a strong argument in favour of it — adding one or more additional dowels makes a lot of sense. Dowels have a good assurance of providing a near-permanent solution, certainly outlasting the current owner of the piece all thing being equal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Which I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; black-finished bits are more prone to than with other coatings which have lower friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Just to give an idea of the difference, where I've had a screw become too stiff to comfortably turn with a conventional screwdriver, or just get stuck outright, once I changed over to a brace it would often require no more than fingertip pressure on the sweep handle to finish driving it home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-05-16T17:10:18.713" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12830" CreationDate="2021-05-16T17:45:27.810" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Joinery is not all about the strength of the joint, though it is certainly an aspect. A large part of what makes woodworking satisfying is the beauty of the construction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from that, the structure of a joint is important to the strength of the joint as well, because it influences &lt;em&gt;how&lt;/em&gt; the glue bonds the pieces together, particularly with relation to grain ... end-grain to end-grain joints tend to be weaker, or at least require more glue as much will be pulled into the grain itself. I typically reinforce a simple miter joint with a biscuit, dowel, or even pocket holes, because even with glue, the joint itself is weak. By using a miter lock joint or similar modification to the profile of the joint, you are adding more edge/face grain for the bonding, which tends to be superior. This is ignoring the obvious benefit of the interlocking members providing a better union.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastActivityDate="2021-05-16T17:45:27.810" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12839" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12848" CreationDate="2021-05-17T00:09:32.397" Score="0" ViewCount="409" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to glue two panels of wood together at a 90 degree angle (the project is to make a box).  I have veneer w/ adhesive on the back that I can iron on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, what is the best order of operations for assembling and veneering?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I apply veneer to each panel first and glue the panels on the veneered surface?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I apply veneer to each panel first avoiding the gluing surfaces and then glue?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I apply veneer to each panel first and use a router or other tool to remove veneer from the gluing surfaces and then glue?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glue it together and then apply the veneer and hope it fits perfectly?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just used cheap 2X4s for the core. I have MDF but I wanted to see if I could make the 2X4s into a good sized panel for fun and as practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The veneer is red oak (search on amazon: &amp;quot;WOOD-ALL Red Oak Wood Veneer Sheet, ‘A’ Grade Plain Sliced/Flat Cut, 24” x 96” with a 10 Mil Paperback/PSA Peel and Stick – Easy Application for Any Restoration&amp;quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For equipment, I'm pretty well setup: mitre saw, small table saw, router (table, fixed base, plunge base, dovetail/boxjoint jig), planer, jointer, vice, clamps, etc. My jig-saw is out of service, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for my skill level: I'm a beginner. I'm trying to tackle more and more advanced projects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this project, it's a box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, specifically a baby changing table. The box has no top, and there is a divider in the middle. I'm also hoping to do box joints where the 4 sides meet. I attached a practice box joint that I cut with the veneer applied prior. It was my first attempt at a box joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other picture is the roughly cut core material forming the overall shape. The pieces are planed to 1/2 inch; just not cut to length/width yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, if the core material is a poor choice I'm ok with it to learn. But if I'm wasting fancy veneer let me know if it's a terrible choice and I can paint this one and use MDF and veneer next time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eriyY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eriyY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;box joint made from pre-veneered pieces&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bPRDy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bPRDy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;current state of the project&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10447" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-05-20T22:22:49.513" LastActivityDate="2021-05-20T22:22:49.513" Title="Gluing veneered panels together to make a box" Tags="|glue|veneer|boxes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12840" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12841" CreationDate="2021-05-17T14:00:37.333" Score="1" ViewCount="216" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was trying to make some dados for a shelf for the first time and unfortunately, they did not come out perfect. The dados on the left and right side are unaligned, about 0.5-1.5mm (~1/32&amp;quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The depth of the dado is 9mm (half the material) and not super tight. I have never done this before so I am uncertain. Can I continue gluing up the carcass and inserting the shelves later? If I manage to insert the shelves I understand they will not be leveled, but I am fine with that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GOvjr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GOvjr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dado1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/05Iea.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/05Iea.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dado2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JOpxV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JOpxV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dado3&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9905" LastActivityDate="2021-06-28T17:14:47.703" Title="Not aligned Dado shelves - does it need correction? (With pictures)" Tags="|dado|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12840" CreationDate="2021-05-17T17:30:01.830" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is your project, so in the end, it is your call. You have a few options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do nothing! Try a test fit and see it if looks ok. If so, move on to the next step! Generally speaking, a 2 mm difference over half a meter/a few feet will not jump out at the viewer (unless there are other errors). Nor will it compromise the structure of a bookcase (a forgiving design).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do almost nothing. You can insert thin shims under the shelves (on the side with the larger dado). Again try a test fit - it will work but you may not like the look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Recut the smaller dado - make sure you pick the correct side of the dado to cut! You want dados at the same height and size to avoid shelves with a slight diagonal across the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a hand tool to trim the small dado - depending on your hand skills and hand tools this can be quickly cleaned up with chisels or special hand planes. Again, you want to cut the correct side of the dado - the shelf should install with right angles to both sides of the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would advise against trimming the shelf to match the two different dados but you can make that work as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ensure that the shelves are secure when assembled - that is important. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastEditorUserId="111" LastEditDate="2021-06-28T17:14:47.703" LastActivityDate="2021-06-28T17:14:47.703" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12829" CreationDate="2021-05-17T18:02:00.160" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of thoughts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;bandsaws do not cut clean like table saws. If you google for images of band sawed wood there is a texture from the cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Assuming correct tension (which also helps clean cuts), ensure the guide blocks' setups, top and bottom, match and are correct. If they are wayout you will hear a pulsing sound to the cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shorten the opening of the cutting clearance as much as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These two adjustments will minimize the side-to-side motion which leads to the rough repeating texture you are seeing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes the weld on the saw blade may be a little off and that will cause the blade to have a slight wobble or skip. If you turn off the saw and rotate the blade until you see the weld mark, you can feel the difference, if any, with your fingers. If so, replace the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;While there isn't space here for all the details, there are a great range of blade thicknesses, and teeth shapes and spacings. Loosely speaking a thick deep blade with more teeth leaves a smoother finish, but I'm grossly simplifying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Adjust your feed speed! Generally, a slower feed speed equals a smooth cut. This is the easiest adjustment on the list!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume the wood to be cut is held with enough downward pressure to avoid extra movement that cutting may introduce. If the lumber is bouncing around, none of the above will help that much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastEditorUserId="111" LastEditDate="2021-06-28T17:18:54.220" LastActivityDate="2021-06-28T17:18:54.220" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12843" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-17T18:15:43.390" Score="1" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am very new to woodworking, and I'm planning on building a table for my living room, from boards that are roughly 4x7 cm (1,6 x 2,6&amp;quot;) and with metal legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The table should look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mS4j0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mS4j0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Table type&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but with more timbers since they are smaller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to assemble it so it can be fully dismantled (including the tabletop) because it will probably go through multiple house moves in the next few years, and it would be very heavy and cumbersome to move as a single piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought I would assemble the boards together by using a flat perforated metal bar underneath the tabletop and M8 screws and inserts, but I worry that it won't allow the wood to properly dilate under heat and humidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an other way I could assemble the timbers together?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10452" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-05-17T18:51:40.257" LastActivityDate="2021-06-16T19:03:25.297" Title="Non-permanent side-by-side assembly of boards" Tags="|furniture|tabletop|table-making|wood-movement|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12843" CreationDate="2021-05-17T18:37:50.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as the holes in the metal bars are larger than the width of the screws, it will be fine. 5mm play or more should be enough. Over time, you can re-tighten the screws if the wood movement is an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastActivityDate="2021-05-17T18:37:50.497" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12845" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12847" CreationDate="2021-05-17T22:33:49.813" Score="0" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started with a 9&amp;quot; x 20&amp;quot; piece of Brazilian cherry, and router cut 5 holes (one circular one, 4 rectangular ones) through the entire width of the board of different sizes in a non-symmetric pattern. At first the piece looked great and was being stored in my garage, probably 20-40% humidity for several weeks. When I went to work on it again I noticed it was warped, it had a twist along the 20&amp;quot; length so two of the corners are higher than the others. I can bend it back to shape with clamps but haven't been able to get it to stay flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than keep trying I plan to re-cut the piece. Anyone have any suggestions on how I can keep it from developing another twist as the wood dries out after cutting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10453" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-05-18T06:54:34.960" LastActivityDate="2021-05-18T07:48:55.700" Title="Routed Brazillian cherry warps after cutting" Tags="|router|warp|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4029" CreationDate="2021-05-17T23:32:40.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This design can work, but you can expect a &lt;em&gt;huge&lt;/em&gt; amount of wood expansion once you fill it with dirt and water the plants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made a planter just like this. I allowed for 4 inches of expansion, and still had to remove one of the strips and rip off ~2 inches due to expansion from watering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to moisture proof this design, cut the panels like floorboards with a tongue and groove, with extra long tongues and extra deep grooves. If you can't do that, sealing each board with a waterproof seal should help reduce expansion, but you still need to allow for a few inches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10454" LastEditorUserId="10454" LastEditDate="2021-05-19T12:55:30.667" LastActivityDate="2021-05-19T12:55:30.667" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12845" CreationDate="2021-05-18T07:48:55.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than keep trying I plan to re-cut the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm glad that's an option for you as it's generally the best course of action in such a situation. Although sometimes one can remove warp successfully there's no guarantee it won't try to return.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have any suggestions on how I can keep it from developing another twist as the wood dries out after cutting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood shouldn't be expected to twist after cutting to size and surfacing. What I mean is that twist isn't inherently a risk with every piece, it is generally down to the individual board. Pieces with swirling or irregular grain are good candidates for a greater likelihood of twisting; but boards with reaction wood somewhere in them are as well and this is harder to spot&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other types of warpage however &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; to be expected with nearly any piece of wood. Almost any board of sufficient size will try to cup or bow slightly, if stored poorly..... and just laying a recently planed piece flat on the bench overnight is poor storage, despite how commonly we all do it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Select your wood with more care.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Store it more carefully after processing to shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you're doing more than just skimming the surface to clean it up, don't just process it on autopilot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pieces with fairly consistent grain, boards with rift-sawn or quarter-sawn grain orientation and straight-grained pieces are inherently much more stable than those with irregular or wild grain (as attractive as they might be). That's not to say you can't use wood with wild grain, but you need to be more careful with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned above, just laying a piece down flat on the bench (or any flat surface, including the floor) is bad shop practice. Ditto leaning against the wall. Both of these are &lt;em&gt;OK&lt;/em&gt; for stuff still in the rough (we can do better) but after processing you should take more care. Either sticker the pieces and put weight on top, or wrap well in plastic. Refuse sacks/bin liners are great for temporarily wrapping wood while you're doing other things&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're going from rough-sawn to smooth, or reducing the thickness of a board substantially, ideally remove material equally from both sides. If you think the wood has potential to distort (and in your case this it is probably a safe assumption that the next piece may be similar to the first) another safety step that's sometimes taken is to remove material in stages, letting the wood rest for some hours or overnight in between to allow it to move a bit. The idea is that any small distortion will be taken care of during the next stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; It may be identified by tightly packed grain in some places and more widely spaced grain elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; And the wood can safely be left bagged for extended periods of time. So if life gets in the way or you just lose momentum on a project don't sweat it, as long as the bag isn't somewhere which experiences wild swings in temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-05-18T07:48:55.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12839" CreationDate="2021-05-18T17:08:27.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After looking at your pictures and seeing what you're after, I think I've got a better idea of what you're doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it were me, I'd cut all the box joints first. Your heavy power tools that you'd be using to cut them are far more likely to tear up your nice veneer layer if you were to apply it prior to cutting the joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually veneer is applied last, once the project is assembled. You apply a slightly oversize piece so that your cuts don't have to be 100% accurate and because you usually adhere it with a contact cement that will stick on touch. I see you're using a preglued veneer, but the process should be the same. By being oversize, it's not fatal if you don't get it aligned 100% accurately, you just trim to fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glue up your bottom panel. If you're veneering the inside of it, apply your veneer &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; attaching the sides to it, otherwise, you'll have to have a 100% accurate cut, dropped 100% accurately in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once your bottom panel is ready to go, prepare your sides to attach it. If you're cutting dadoes for the bottom to fit in, make them to fit the thickness of the bottom plus the veneer, if you're simply making a butt joint, you're already good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've got the bottom on, you can then veneer the sides as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You seem to be concerned about gluing wood together once the veneer is on it. You're gluing up a real wood veneer to wood, so this shouldn't be an issue, no matter what kind of glue you're using to attach the wood to wood. There's &lt;em&gt;possibility&lt;/em&gt; that the PSA holding the veneer on could detach, leaving the veneer behind. I'm not sure how significant this possibility is, but since your child may be laying on the table at the time of disengagement, I'd suggest adding some mechanical fasteners, just to be safe. Screws or nails (I'd go with screws) up through the bottom and into the sides will take some/most of the stress on the joint, meaning that the PSA on the veneer won't be taking it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2021-05-18T17:08:27.860" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12849" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12852" CreationDate="2021-05-18T21:24:51.223" Score="1" ViewCount="176" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short...I need to build a exterior wooden support structure that can hold a sand filled box 3'tall x 4' wide x 13&amp;quot; deep...weighing roughly 1400lbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The support structure needs to be at least 1 foot wider &amp;amp; longer and stand approximately 3 feet tall. Making the entire combined height 6 feet tall. I'm not sure what dimensions wood to use to support that weight nor how to design it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This supporting structure will be sitting on the ground. I want it to be &amp;quot;temporary&amp;quot;. As I do not want a permanent concrete pad for ground support. I do realize the problem with that idea. If there is a way to get around making a permanent base, that would be ideal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought about using railroad ties and as a ground level base to help with elemental degradation, but have no easy way to cut something that thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas will be so much appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10457" LastActivityDate="2021-05-19T00:11:21.513" Title="Help me design a support structure" Tags="|wood|technique|design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12850" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-18T22:36:08.707" Score="7" ViewCount="452" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wooden fence cladding is common here, they're the fences between neighbors that use horizontal wooden cladding attached to a fence post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Douglas fir is a popular choice, which can expand a lot during rainy days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recommendation is always to leave some horizontal spacing between the individual boards to allow for wood movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But another recommendation is always to use 2 screws on either side of the board (so 4 screws per board) when attaching it to the fence posts to prevent the board from cupping and warping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why don't these two screws cause issues? Why doesn't the wood split and fly off the fence posts when it expands? It seems completely restricted by the screws, and is constantly under changing moisture conditions outside. Is it because individual wood fibers don't run all the way through the wood and leaving space between boards is enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone help me answer why on the one hand you need to leave space between each board to allow for wood movement, and on the other you are screwing it down with 2 screws on each site, seemingly preventing wood movement. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After looking through several books regarding building codes, using fasteners in this way does cause issues with many species of wood. To avoid this, oversized pilot holes should be used so the wood can move to minimize tension on the screws. Countersinks should be avoided and wide flat screw heads should be used instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I don't understand is why this system of using fasteners on cladding and decks is so popular when it doesn't allow for wood movement and many building codes advise against it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hmVBf.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hmVBf.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10459" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2021-05-19T00:14:41.970" LastActivityDate="2021-05-19T03:09:18.543" Title="Why do 2 screws on wooden fence cladding not cause wood movement problems?" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12849" CreationDate="2021-05-19T00:11:21.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would frame this with 4x4 corner columns extending up the full 6' height. I would frame the elevated floor with 2x6 joists at 16&amp;quot; oc. max.  The deck can be 3/4&amp;quot; plywood.  In essence your are building a very small house frame. You can make the 13&amp;quot; sides with the remains of the plywood and secure the panels at a the top to a 2x4 top plate and studs at 16&amp;quot; oc. To keep it from racking use &amp;quot;X&amp;quot; diagonal 1x3 cross braces secured to the 4x4s from floor level to grade.  Since it is temporary, you can rest the columns on a couple concrete block slabs 2&amp;quot;+/- thick.  I also recommend having a means of draining the plywood floor and using a plastic sheet to keep any wet sand from directly contacting the wood assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2021-05-19T00:11:21.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12853" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-19T00:56:13.220" Score="0" ViewCount="476" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought this cabinet and I'm trying to determine if it can handle an Aquarium I'm trying to place on it.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jk3it.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jk3it.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.nexeradistribution.com/en/product/nexera-131106-paragon-1-door-storage-cabinet-black/?color=black&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Here is the cabinet&quot;&gt;Here is the cabinet&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The aquarium is 20 Gallons dimensions are 17.75&amp;quot; x 17.75&amp;quot; x 15.5&amp;quot; from what I can tell it can range from being 160 pounds to about 250 pounds depending on what you put in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find the load capacity anywhere online but I'm feeling like this cabinet could potentially hold this much weight if I reinforce it with some metal brackets or plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions basically are should I reinforce it? Is reinforcing it possible? How should I go about reinforcing the cabinet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me know if you need more information and thank you in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10461" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2021-05-21T19:49:47.293" LastActivityDate="2021-05-21T19:49:47.293" Title="How much could I load on to this cabinet? Should I reinforce it?" Tags="|cabinetry|weight-capacity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12850" CreationDate="2021-05-19T03:09:18.543" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Expansion and contraction of wood is proportional to the width of the wood, so if a 6 inch wide board expands by 0.1 inches when it gets wet, then a 12 inch wide board will expand by 0.2 inches if everything else is the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is some movement between the screws as you've seen, and using oversize holes and flat screw heads allows that movement to occur without damaging the wood.  But even without those techniques, the amount of movement is fairly small because the distance between the screws is only a few inches.  If the screws are 4 inches apart, then using the example above, the expansion between the screws is just over 1/16 inch.  The wood doesn't &amp;quot;split and fly off the fence&amp;quot;, but instead the wood pushes back and forth against the screws countless times over the years, causing the holes to get a little larger, and the screws to loosen a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The situation is different if the boards are installed without gaps.  As each board expands it tries to push the adjacent board away.  But the adjacent board is also expanding, so it tries to push the next board even further.  Overall, it will be more like a single wide board.  So if the fence is 72 inches tall, the total expansion would be 1.2 inches.  This is too much movement to accommodate, and will result in cracking or screws pulling out of the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2276" LastActivityDate="2021-05-19T03:09:18.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12853" CreationDate="2021-05-19T15:40:34.653" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR: Maybe, but I don't think we can tell you.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This probably cannot be answered, at least fully. It depends if you want to think like a woodworker acting as an engineer, or an engineer acting as a woodworker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can a specific construction support ~160lbs? It depends on what you mean by &amp;quot;support&amp;quot;, because it depends on what forces are applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is this thing we call &amp;quot;Load&amp;quot;?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something can be said to &amp;quot;support&amp;quot; a given static load if that static load can be carried through the members all the way to the ground underneath it. That is, you have to be sure that the wood or metal members can transfer that weight to the floor without major deflection or sudden or eventual failure. You also have to be sure &lt;em&gt;your floor&lt;/em&gt; can handle these concentrated loads at whatever number points of contact the cabinet has. The whole thing is a system designed to transfer that load to the ground under your house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And even if the construction could manage the dead-weight of 160lbs (or, more likely,  240lbs or more because you should give yourself &lt;em&gt;at least&lt;/em&gt; 50% margin of error) you have to ask what happens when a hip hits it, or cat jumps on it, or there is an earthquake, or an alien invasion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of a large mass at the top of a construction as an upside-down pendulum. Once you put energy into that mass it will want to move, and continue to move. This will stress the construction more than just transferring a static load to the floor, as joinery and fasteners and material will be stressed possibly beyond their limits, possibly leading to wear failure. You can't stop all of this movement, but you can restrict the amount of unexpected movement along any number of axes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do we even build things, anyway?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you have to consider two major design points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can the down- and cross-members handle the static load, transferring this load to the members below it to the floor? (And can your floor take this load?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the construction sufficiently stiff to keep dynamic loads from racking the construction, possibly leading to a catastrophic failure mode?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Woodworkers would probably look at this as a sort of robust table or cabinet construction. Building for 250lbs means you can't just take the same old china or microwave cabinet design without beefing up all the members related to transferring those loads. Joinery will have to be added to stiffen the &amp;quot;boxes&amp;quot; as well, or some sort of bracing will have to be added. You'd probably minimize &amp;quot;stretcher&amp;quot; distances without support, and use more robust lumber used in the typical ways to maximize the ability of wood to deflect more or less in different directions. i.e., now we especially care that dimension lumber is strongest with forces applied to edges (as in how joists are used) or in direct compression (as posts are used), and keep your spans under some distance that feels right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An engineer would consult with the well-known tables and charts related to material failures and support limits and then tell you that you probably ought to at least have someone look at your floor joists before you do anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This probably isn't rocket surgery&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the day: can you (and maybe a friend) stand on the top of this cabinet and move around on it with minimal deflection, unexpected racking, or ominous cracking? If not, then you have your answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are any of the load-bearing devices in the cabinet relying purely on the shear strength of metal fasteners? Are any of the forces wanting to pull fasteners out of mismatched butt-joints? If so, then you have your answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-05-20T15:30:23.837" LastActivityDate="2021-05-20T15:30:23.837" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10100" CreationDate="2021-05-19T16:13:37.290" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my comments, which seems borne out by the last comment from the OP:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These fibres look more like crystalline structures than anything organic. Both paraffin and beeswax contain largish crystals. Though, if the wax has been de-oiled or processed in the right manner those crystals can get really small. Just a guess here, but it looks like the conditions were fine for thin layer of finish to stay wet enough to super-saturate. Once those first crystals were able to grow undisturbed they would have continued as long as the conditions for saturation remained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2021-05-19T16:13:37.290" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10943" CreationDate="2021-05-20T17:22:36.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot make a perfect inside 90 with a saw of any kerf size or the nicest router bit. This is not specific to wood, either. Machinists cannot make a perfect (for them) inside 90 with any tool in metal. It's just the nature of how cutters and cutter geometry work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inside corners are always a problem for close fits, and the only solution is to cut some relief into the corner such that any outside 90 that wants to fit into that corner never &lt;em&gt;quite&lt;/em&gt; meets it. Even CNC or machine cutting will only be able to make so many guarantees about inside corners. They usually recommend you allow for this fact in your fitting by designing relief into mating parts. Most CAD programs can do this automagically for wood or metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend doing what old-time cabinet makers do for mortices where the shoulder needs to be right on the money: use a chisel to cut a relief into the corner such that mating surfaces never quite meet at that inside corner. (Obviously, chamfering tenons will also help.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this isn't for joinery and you want as perfect as you can get, the recommendation still stands: finish with a chisel (or bullnose or shoulder or chisel plane, or a safe-edge file) and sneak up on it using your best square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-05-20T22:05:59.263" LastActivityDate="2021-05-20T22:05:59.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11244" CreationDate="2021-05-20T21:11:18.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will be making these in batches of some sort, even if it is an evening of 2-3 items. Semi-regularly you pick one at random and test it using a test platform of some kind. Ideally you want to know the safe deflection mass, the mass under which it deforms and stays deformed, and the complete failure mass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep track of this and then you can see how your small changes in material and manufacturing affect the overall safety and strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your major worry is if there is a sudden failure mode that results in injury under slightly beyond &amp;quot;normal&amp;quot; circumstances. The only way to be sure is to destructively test each batch at random.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-05-20T21:51:34.620" LastActivityDate="2021-05-20T21:51:34.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11141" CreationDate="2021-05-20T21:16:43.650" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wood screws work best as clamping devices. That is, no part of the screw fastener &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; engage with the top piece, leaving only the &lt;em&gt;head&lt;/em&gt; of the screw to clamp the top piece to the bottom piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This implies that, ideally, you drill two sizes of holes: pilot holes for the threads and relief holes for the shank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It follows that for those cases where the threadless shank can't clear the top piece ideally the pilot hole is wide enough such that none of the threads engage except in the piece we are clamping to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice what we often get is &lt;em&gt;nearly none&lt;/em&gt; of the thread engaging in the top piece and &lt;em&gt;nearly most&lt;/em&gt; of the threads engaging nicely into the bottom piece. This is usually just fine for rough construction (just back out the screw, tighten up the clutch, and drive it in harder) but will &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; give you the tight clamping you want in woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The glue-and-screw combination is one of the strongest, convenient, and forgiving joinery we've ever created, but only if you install the fasteners the way they were designed to be installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-05-22T13:14:34.407" LastActivityDate="2021-05-22T13:14:34.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10445" CreationDate="2021-05-20T21:24:06.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are sure the parts are epoxied together there isn't much you can do. Epoxy is forever for most mortals. It depends on the kind of epoxy, but most are resistant to most common solvents. So you would have to know the exact kind and hope that you can find the appropriate solvent, and then hope it didn't destroy the material around it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is some other sort of glue, then heat, steam, and patience is the order of the day. Some epoxies only fully cure with heat or UV, and there is a period where they can be softened and reworked. In this case, we don't know the kind of epoxy or whether it was heat-cured already. You could, of course, try this before moving on to more destructive  methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, you are drilling out the metal piece and replacing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-05-21T13:17:39.010" LastActivityDate="2021-05-21T13:17:39.010" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10071" CreationDate="2021-05-20T21:30:01.723" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The typical &amp;quot;let's see what happens&amp;quot; approach is to clean it off best you can, coat the whole thing in a layer of wax, and let it sit in a dry place for few years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An even more lazy approach is to bury it in a box of wood shavings and ignore it for years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more active approach is to carve away most of the obvious waste and treat it in a bath of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyethylene_glycol&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PEG&lt;/a&gt; to replace most of the water in the burl. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/2901/283&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; for more information on stabilizing wood with PEG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2021-05-20T21:57:19.067" LastActivityDate="2021-05-20T21:57:19.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12862" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-21T06:18:59.853" Score="2" ViewCount="612" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have a situation that comes up all the time working with furniture. a beam cracks and needs to be replaced. What is holding it in place is a joint secured by a few staples. Pulling those staples out is usually a lost cause because they are long and the joint is small (the one in the picture is 1.5 inches by 1 inch with 1/2 an inch of wood left under). Any serious pulling will do too much damage to wood before you get them out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I cut them off with a multitool. Take a small hammer to get them deep enough that the surface is flat (ish) and use epoxy to compensate for whatever uneven surface this produces to secure a new beam in it's place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I was thinking is there an actual decent way to sand this part down? I do have access to a multitool, dremel, and a few sanders. If you had to smooth it out to glue in a new beam how would you approach it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do have a grinder but I don't think it's a good approach here especially given how little clearance there is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BJ8hh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BJ8hh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9309" LastActivityDate="2021-05-21T14:28:39.367" Title="How to sand down wood with metal staple ends?" Tags="|furniture|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12862" CreationDate="2021-05-21T14:28:39.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are different ways of approaching the problem of remaining staples and where feasible, and where it doesn't do further damage to the wood, it is often worth taking the time to prise or carefully lever them out&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. With some recent practice doing this quite a bit (while reclaiming wood from old furniture) I can say you do get much better at it with some practice and experience, however, it isn't always necessary or desirable to do so and there's never a guarantee you'll get staples out in one piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where speed or necessity dictate that the staple (or a nail for that matter) remain in place it's probably best to do basically what you're already doing: tap them flush with a hammer, or a little below flush using a nail set, and just keep going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had to smooth it out to glue in a new beam how would you approach it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a carbide scraper rather than sanding as the primary means to remove most or all of the glue residue. A chisel or two dedicated to this purpose can also be very useful for chipping or paring off old glue&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try heating the glue residue with a heat gun to see if this helps make removal easier; sometimes it is just easier to chip away and scrape hard, crystalline glue residue than if it's gummy/rubbery after heating, but one needs to test it to see.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use construction adhesive or epoxy to glue the joint, saving a step by not having to do any filling of gaps or irregularities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Although it seems like an abuse of the tool slot-head screwdrivers make excellent levering tools for this since they're typically tempered soft enough that they won't break; just dedicate a couple to this job. A further good trick here is to lever against the blade of a putty knife or over a card scraper, so there's no chance of denting the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Some woodworkers and furniture restorers keep 'beater' chisels around for this type of job, so it's no big deal if (when LOL) you run them into a bit of metal and chip or fold over the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-05-21T14:28:39.367" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12865" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-22T13:54:13.567" Score="1" ViewCount="1051" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in a situation where I had to take a piece from one shop to another as I moved cross country.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I applied one coat of tung oil per the container's instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shop I am in this afternoon only has boiled linseed oil available. Are they similar enough that I can just apply the linseed oil as my second and final coat, or will there be an undesirable interaction between the two finishes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, it is not that difficult for me to go out and get tung oil, but I'd rather not keep any more volatile inflammable finishes in my shop that I don't intend to use much, and I prefer linseed oil....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="292" LastEditorUserId="292" LastEditDate="2021-05-22T14:41:20.550" LastActivityDate="2021-05-22T14:41:20.550" Title="okay to put one coat of linseed oil over one coat of tung oil?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10990" CreationDate="2021-05-23T17:29:56.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;[Edited completely because I didn't understand that this appears to be a design that requires a 16in. cantilever shelf supported only by some sort of single joint, with no bracing.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A mortice and tenon joint will never work. &lt;em&gt;No&lt;/em&gt; simple joint would ever work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to choose one or more of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engineer a proper cantilever design&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use bracing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a different material&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cantilevers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think about how cantilevers are constructed for houses. There are engineering rules-of-thumb that says how much you can cantilever out for a given joist size, and the joists are extended (either as longer members, or by sistering up joists) to allow for that. Well, that's hard to do here, but it is how the Ikea floating shelves work; a metal frame is screwed with approximately 1003 screws into the wall which makes it part of the wall onto which a shelf is slid. (Not to mention that cantilever designs often incorporate bracing of some sort so that the cantilevered part is supported to support joist deflection.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could construct a similar design using only wood, but the idea is the same: you make a frame of some sort that extends the &amp;quot;wall&amp;quot; into the air, providing the stiffness along the length and at the joint. This might get very chunky, but the idea is that you combine members in two directions to support each-other. Think of how all-wood lumber racks are often constructed: there is a vertical stud onto which cantilevered brackets are mounted; often glued-and-screwed so we take advantage of the geometry of a &amp;quot;joist&amp;quot; meeting a &amp;quot;stud&amp;quot; not allowing easy rotational movement of the bracket. The rotational force has to overcome the shear strength of plywood cheeks, glue, and screws (and the screws are there mainly to prevent sudden failure and gives us good clamping for the glue joint).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This is how my all-wood rack I built is made, and it supports hundreds of kilograms across three brackets.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are examples of this sort of floating shelf made entirely out of wood. A nice wood &amp;quot;stud&amp;quot; member is attached the wall, and shelf/brackets are attached to that via a notch or even clever plywood cheeks that lock the joint in place so it cannot deflect vertically. You could even hide this construction with larger &amp;quot;floating&amp;quot; shelf members, but there is a limit to what you could do with only wood. The more &amp;quot;brackets&amp;quot; you create, of course, the smaller the overall load is on each bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bracing/Trussing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bracing  reduces the clean look, but even braided cable (with or without a turnbuckle) going from about 2/3rds of the way out on the shelf to at least an equal distance up on the wall would work. The idea is you add a triangle to the design that actually supports the cantilevered mass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use Metal&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As seen in the Ikea (et al) designs is that the actual load-bearing parts are metal. There is a reason for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Final Comments&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of this assumes you would be fastening the whole thing to the wall in a manner that resists the significant mass that wants to lever the fasteners out over time, and offers acceptable resistance to shearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for how robust to make this design, that is an open question. You could consult civil engineering tables for various material and adapt those. But I think you'd be on your own with some help from the designs you find. Also, you need to determine your material first. Honestly, plywood is your best choice, at least for much of the actual joinery. And good, clean glue joints clamped down with hidden or pocket screws is your best friend in the long run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To recap: this requires some clever wood engineering, but no simple joint will suffice. Either research some of the common floating wood shelf ideas out there that either display or hide the &amp;quot;triangles&amp;quot; necessary to support such a joint, add some bracing, or switch to a commercial or home-made metal load-bearing part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a personal note I'll warn you that you will probably &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; get a clean, straight look. You can make it strong, but every floating shelf made by mere mortals &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; sags, or looks like it sags. Walls are never true enough in any direction, and fastened brackets &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; come to rest at non-ideal angles (which look larger the longer the length of cantilever). So consider shims and other techniques for making the outside faces of your bracket mounting construction as true as possible. Never assume the wall is true enough for your design. And try to allow for bracket sag in your design by installing them a little high at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-05-25T19:25:35.210" LastActivityDate="2021-05-25T19:25:35.210" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12868" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-25T01:20:44.183" Score="0" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a picture of a hand plane with a hinged cover. There are no identifying marks on the metal hand plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TT3LS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TT3LS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KZVQS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KZVQS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z4ky7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z4ky7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s0jaY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s0jaY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S6jcI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S6jcI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10478" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-05-25T15:52:01.943" LastActivityDate="2021-05-26T00:44:40.563" Title="I’m having difficulty identifying this hand plane with NO identifying marks" Tags="|plane|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2021-05-26T15:33:12.513" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12868" CreationDate="2021-05-26T00:44:40.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the information everyone. It is indeed a ice plane (shaver)&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CmvvB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10478" LastActivityDate="2021-05-26T00:44:40.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12872" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12873" CreationDate="2021-05-26T05:23:36.260" Score="2" ViewCount="741" Body="&lt;p&gt;I looking to chamfer the corners of 1&amp;quot; square stock to make octagonal timber using a homemade table-mounted router. I have so far been using a 45 degree bit with a bearing but without a fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought I might get more control with two featherboards - one on the table and one on the fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What advantages do the feathers of a featherboard have over just using a block of wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1125" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-05-26T08:11:24.037" LastActivityDate="2021-05-26T16:20:49.010" Title="Is a featherboard necessary on a router table? Why not a block of wood?" Tags="|router|router-table|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12872" CreationDate="2021-05-26T13:58:30.063" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A block of wood&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Will act as a guide to help hold the work piece tight to the fence/bit to ensure that your cut is consistent. &lt;em&gt;This is good.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Will require precise alignment with the fence. If it is slightly out of parallel, you'll end up pinching your work piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At a minimum, this will stop you from further routing until you get it adjusted.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At worst, it could allow the bit to grab the wood and kick it back at you. &lt;em&gt;This is bad.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Will also provide a fairly large contact surface against the work piece, so the further you push the work along the block, the more friction you're going to get, making it more difficult to push.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Having it be more difficult to push means that you're moving slower which could lead to burning.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It also means that you're putting more force into the feed which could cause you to slip/lose your balance/lose control which puts you at risk of injury. &lt;em&gt;This is bad.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A feather board&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Will act as a guide to help hold the work piece tight against the fence/bit to ensure your cut is consistent. &lt;em&gt;This is good.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Has some springiness in the &amp;quot;feathers&amp;quot; which will help provide pressure without perfect alignment of the feather board. &lt;em&gt;This is good.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The springiness of the &amp;quot;feathers&amp;quot; will push the work piece against the fence should there be any amount of back feed, giving a greater chance of trapping the work piece should it, for any reason, start going the wrong way on you. &lt;em&gt;This is good.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The contact point between the tips of the &amp;quot;feathers&amp;quot; and the work piece will remain fairly small and provide minimal friction and resistance against your efforts to feed the piece past the bit. This means that your feed effort will remain reasonably constant throughout the milling operation, improving consistency of the work. &lt;em&gt;This is good.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In conclusion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is a feather board &lt;em&gt;necessary&lt;/em&gt;? No. Neither is a block of wood. Many people operate their router table without either in place and get very satisfactory results. People operate routers &lt;em&gt;without&lt;/em&gt; a table (or any sort of guide) at all and get satisfactory results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding one or the other may well improve your work quality, safety, and, possibly, speed of work (it takes a bit less mental &amp;amp; physical effort to keep the work against the bit with something mechanically holding it there beyond just your fingers, so you can work a little faster).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be honest, I've never heard of anyone using &amp;quot;a block of wood&amp;quot; on the router table &lt;em&gt;other&lt;/em&gt; than the one being routed. With that in mind, it's probably &lt;em&gt;better&lt;/em&gt; to leave that off the table (so to speak ;) and go with a feather board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feather boards do &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; have to be commercially purchased. You can make one out of a scrap of &lt;s&gt;2x4&lt;/s&gt; wood (any dimension should do, just make it long enough to be able to fix it in place) - simply cut several slots into one end (a table or band saw would make this easier), leaving 1/16&amp;quot; to 1/4&amp;quot; between the slots (they don't have to be precise), then cut the feathered ends at an angle of your choosing (this is the Norm Abrams/New Yankee Workshop early days method). If you want a fancier one, I found some directions at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lumberjocks.com/Gord/blog/2080&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this LumberJocks thread&lt;/a&gt; (no endorsement, just the first homemade instructions I came across). I'm sure you can find other methods of making them, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2021-05-26T16:20:49.010" LastActivityDate="2021-05-26T16:20:49.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12874" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12879" CreationDate="2021-05-27T13:34:48.717" Score="3" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've purchased a second hand die from ebay but it's missing the tap portion:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r3oBr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r3oBr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;What is the best/recommended way to make or purchase a matching tap for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5498" LastEditorUserId="5498" LastEditDate="2021-05-27T19:56:25.623" LastActivityDate="2021-05-28T09:11:02.353" Title="making or buying a wooden tap?" Tags="|wood|dowel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12875" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12877" CreationDate="2021-05-27T15:28:25.913" Score="0" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently cut down a (dead) pinyon pine and I'm using part of it to make a handle for a hammer. While working with this wood the smell of it is out-of-this-world amazing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the handle is finished what can I use to protect it such that I can still smell the wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4559" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-05-27T17:13:07.827" LastActivityDate="2021-05-27T17:28:00.670" Title="Retain smell of wood on a tool and also protect it?" Tags="|finishing|tool-maintenance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12875" CreationDate="2021-05-27T15:30:28.047" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A tool handle? Just leave it unfinished, and let your well-earned grime and skin oils polish it over the years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do finish it, then choose any penetrating finish and keep it light. The volatiles in the wood will mix with the volatiles in the finish and it will &lt;em&gt;mostly&lt;/em&gt; stay the same. Those wax and oil mixtures sold for oiling cutting boards and salad bowls would probably be the most scentless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-05-27T16:08:46.000" LastActivityDate="2021-05-27T16:08:46.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12875" CreationDate="2021-05-27T17:28:00.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't matter if you put nothing on it the smell you got was &lt;em&gt;because the wood was being worked&lt;/em&gt; and in common with other species that smell lovely during processing — including genuine rosewoods which can have a sort-of rose smell and various resinous conifers which give off that piney/turpentiney odour that some love and some don't — you can expect it to diminish to the point that you can't smell it unless you put your nose right on the wood, and perhaps even then you might need to scrape it or sand it to release the aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with wood that's used for its smell, species like cedar which are packed full of particularly aromatic compounds, the odour only lingers if the wood is left unfinished, &lt;em&gt;and in a confined space&lt;/em&gt; — the same wood used to line a blanket chest, if left out as loose boards will not have a noticeable odour after a fairly short time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're particularly enamoured of the smell I suggest you horde scraps of the tree and sand or plane a little of it every time you go into the workshop :-) For a more permanent solution you might look at essential oils to see if one or a combination give you something close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-05-27T17:28:00.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12874" CreationDate="2021-05-27T20:02:56.477" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have two choices:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find and buy the parts you need.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Design the part you need, or have someone design it, and then machine it, or find a machinist to make it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Details related to the &amp;quot;how to do this&amp;quot; question implied in (2) is out of scope for this SE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2021-05-27T20:02:56.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12874" CreationDate="2021-05-28T09:11:02.353" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To buy&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Once you're received the tap and done any necessary cleanup/renovation work on it to be serviceable you prepare your dowel&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, thread a portion of it, then determine what the pitch and profile is. Once you know this you see if you can find a matching tap for sale somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the typical thread profile for modern wood taps and dies (90° V-threads, rather than the 60° typical of threads in metal) this might not be as difficult as it sounds, as long as the pitch isn't unusual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To make&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The classic problem when seeking to start making threads in wood is that you could really do with having a die in order to make the tap, or the tap in order to make the die. Since you have one half of the equation you're well set up to be able to complete the operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a nutshell what you can do is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;thread some dowel;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cut some relief for the scrapings&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shape and insert a cutting tooth&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; into the leading edge of the thread, adjacent to the relief and close to one end.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most users find putting a &lt;em&gt;slight&lt;/em&gt; taper on the leading portion of a tap useful, although just a chamfered leading edge is also an option. The tooth is inserted past any taper or chamfer or it won't cut a full thread profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cutter doesn't absolutely have to be tool steel, but while you can use mild steel I would suggest at least using fileable high-carbon steel for better performance (e.g. a scrap from a saw blade, any saw of any vintage will do). If you don't have an old saw or two lying around you can sacrifice a small portion from the tip of any unbacked saw without affecting its performance. If you're seeking to do this quite a bit, and/or in harder woods, it would be very beneficial to make the cutting tooth from a thicker chunk of tool steel, fully annealed for ease of working. Allen keys are usually a decent source of suitable steel. After shaping you harden and temper it, before final honing. Alternatively, use the stub of a broken HSS drill bit which won't require any heat treating, but must be worked in a fully hard state so grinding or diamond files are generally required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; This isn't just turning the wood to the major diameter, in case you haven't seen this tip while researching threading wood it's apparently very beneficial to pre-soak a dowel to be threaded in oil prior to cutting the threads. The most common choice for this seems to be linseed oil but some use mineral oil and get comparable results, so I suspect the type of oil doesn't actually matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Since it's easiest to make and insert just one cutter you'll be making a single-flute design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Obviously you shape the tooth as accurately as you can, but wood threads of this kind are not high-precision tooling so just hand-filing or grinding a tooth to approximately the right shape can still yield a thread profile that works, and works well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-05-28T09:11:02.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12880" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12881" CreationDate="2021-05-28T13:32:21.323" Score="3" ViewCount="420" Body="&lt;p&gt;Following on from the comments in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/12875/retain-smell-of-wood-on-a-tool-and-also-protect-it&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; how does one orient the grain when making a tool handle that takes shocks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These images show a piece of pinyon pine that I used to make a hammer handle. First time I've done this. Feel free to be brutally honest about the mistakes I made otherwise I won't learn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is specifically asking how I should have oriented the grain from this piece of wood to create a stronger hammer handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y9ggT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y9ggT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fMGM1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fMGM1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/siTQD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/siTQD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4559" LastActivityDate="2021-05-28T15:23:14.267" Title="How do you orient the grain in a tool handle that takes shocks?" Tags="|end-grain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12880" CreationDate="2021-05-28T15:23:14.267" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is specifically asking how I should have oriented the grain from this piece of wood to create a stronger hammer handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The closing of my Answer to this old question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2052/what-are-some-suitable-woods-to-use-for-tool-handles&quot;&gt;What are some suitable woods to use for tool handles?&lt;/a&gt; covers this, and previously some other important points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, experience has shown that grain should run front to back in a hammer eye (ditto hatchets, axes etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How you can see this most easily when viewing a tool or loose handle is when laid flat you should be looking at 'cathedral' grain facing straight up (i.e. you shouldn't be seeing tightly packed straight grain, that should ideally face directly front and back).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These images show a piece of pinyon pine that I used to make a hammer handle. First time I've done this. Feel free to be brutally honest about the mistakes I made otherwise I won't learn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The grain orientation is not the best but by no means the worst either.... I've seen much worse on commercial handles, more on that in my closing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You used only a portion of the piece, cutting out the heart which is generally a good thing (unless you can arrange to 'box' it, so that it runs centrally through the entire handle, which is sometimes done on tool handles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A straighter piece would have been better, unless you wanted to incorporate the natural curvature into the handle, in which case this would have been perfect. And one without knots or any areas of swirling grain is generally recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now about the wood type, it's not necessarily bad news. Repeating the point from the above link, &lt;em&gt;forget the species, what's this piece like?&lt;/em&gt; Pinyon pine, as a slow-growing variety is certainly far more likely to have better handle properties&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; than your average piece of unguessable 'pine' 2x construction wood from the big-box store with grain lines about a yard wide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR diatribe on commercial handles&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Whatever you do, don't get guidance from commercial tool handles! Commercial handles, both those already fitted and replacement handles — &lt;em&gt;even some sold to be upgrades to factory-fitted handles&lt;/em&gt; — are simply a terrible guideline to how to best orient the grain for hammers, but more importantly axes, mauls and sledges because there is zero consistency, including handle to handle from the same maker! They're churning them out from rough blanks without regard to colour, grain orientation or anything else, and it can result in some truly godawful handles that are doomed to failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is obviously in modern handles, however, and this will surprise some people, vintage tools and spare handles are guilty of the same thing. Although the frequency of better or ideal grain orientation &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; have been higher in the past (possibly better and better the older you go) many observers have independently noted the same thing: that vintage and antique tools can still have textbook bad grain orientation, and sometimes bad grain runout. Occasionally both, which is the cardinal sin of wooden handles. Where you can often see this most pointedly is on old hammers and axes where there's just a handle stub remaining, or where the only wood left is stuck in the eye. Nine times out of ten it's because of one or both problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By comparison, producers of commercial major-league baseball bats can be far more conscientious about doing this the right way&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. In this image of a selection of bats note that the logo is invariably placed on the side of the 'cathedrals':&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Vsim.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Vsim.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;MLB bats&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; The narrower the grain the better since this decreases the amount of pale earlywood, which is &lt;em&gt;meh&lt;/em&gt;, and increases the proportion of the darker latewood which is more akin to hardwood, improving toughness (more likely to hold up to the rigours of use) and adding weight (gives better balance).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; See &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3592/where-should-the-trademark-be-placed-on-a-baseball-bat/3596#3596&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt; for a little more on grain orientation in bats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-05-28T15:23:14.267" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12882" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-28T20:10:23.487" Score="3" ViewCount="3187" Body="&lt;p&gt;I searched but I couldn't really find this answer. I want to use the linked wooden dowel as a pull-up bar. 1.25&amp;quot; oak (not specified which). Is this gonna be strong enough across a roughly 30&amp;quot; expanse to hold up a 200lb man doing pull-ups?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lowes.com/pd/Madison-Mill-Round-Oak-Dowel-Actual-36-in-L-x-1-25-in-dia/3040786?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-mlw-_-google-_-lia-_-122-_-specialtymillwork-_-3040786-_-0&amp;amp;placeholder=null&amp;amp;ds_rl=1286981&amp;amp;gclid=CjwKCAjwqcKFBhAhEiwAfEr7zWAx4Ap79D0RHibZH_ISdXd_g42RCMCvLzuGKTHnE4WLuBMnvP-cOBoCzYgQAvD_BwE&amp;amp;gclsrc=aw.ds&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lowe's link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10502" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-05-29T14:23:38.847" LastActivityDate="2021-08-28T22:50:57.363" Title="Pull-Up Bar - Wooden dowel - 1.25&quot; actual diameter" Tags="|strength|weight-capacity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12883" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12884" CreationDate="2021-05-29T17:09:26.627" Score="5" ViewCount="1262" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got myself a worktop jig like this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mtcep.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mtcep.png&quot; alt=&quot;Worktop jig&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is normally used to make 90 degrees joint for kitchen worktops, with what is called &amp;quot;hockey stick&amp;quot; cut:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CDiG7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CDiG7.png&quot; alt=&quot;Types of cuts&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The jig instructions call for a 30 mm template bushing, and a 12.7 mm x 50 mm, or 1/2&amp;quot; x 2&amp;quot;, router straight bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I understand that the 30 mm template bushing will keep the bit center along the center of the groove - what I fail to understand is why should a 12.7 mm bit work, while any other bit doesn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what I understand, when I use this jig to make cuts, when doing the &amp;quot;female&amp;quot; cut you will be discarding what is &amp;quot;south&amp;quot; of the groove, in the picture above; when doing the &amp;quot;male&amp;quot; cut you will be discarding what is &amp;quot;north&amp;quot; of the groove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two edges will then necessarily have two different radii where the groove bends, so just like you cannot fit the two edges of the jig groove together, you will never be able to fit the two edges of your joint together; unless you have a 0 mm diameter bit, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, my understanding is clearly flawed since lots of people use a jig just like the above everyday. What is it that makes this 12.7 mm so special for this jig? How is it possible that the two edges will fit together, since they are offset in opposite direction with respect to the groove center?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10506" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-05-31T12:56:51.517" LastActivityDate="2024-02-26T05:38:03.930" Title="How does a worktop jig work?" Tags="|router|jig|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12883" CreationDate="2021-05-31T13:35:53.310" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a diagram I made to show how the jig works. The top part shows the offsets between edge of bushing and edge of cutting bit as the centerline. The bottom diagram shows how those two sections are then separated to account for the thickness of the cutter and then shifted over with the dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously the dimensions of the bend radius have just been selected at random but these can be anything you want. The main focus is that in the bottom portion the radii of the green and orange sections have different centerpoints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Made a couple edits to the image as I had some things slightly wrong but it is correct now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sF49S.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sF49S.png&quot; alt=&quot;Jig diagram&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9887" LastEditorUserId="9887" LastEditDate="2021-06-01T19:01:54.583" LastActivityDate="2021-06-01T19:01:54.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12885" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-31T15:04:32.477" Score="3" ViewCount="231" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Summary&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a set of 13 1/2” collet router bits from TayTools. I’m new to routing, and purchased the Kobalt router table. Setting everything up, I attempted to make a cut with a 3/4” straight bit in some pine. The cut traveled about 3/4” into the piece, and then ceased to move further. I repeated this with a dovetail bit and another straight bit to no avail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Description of Events&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ll describe what happened with the 3/4” straight bit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I locked the bit into the collet and submitted the router to the table. I aligned the fence along rulers that are etched into the table on either side of the bit housing (approximately 2 inches from the bit’s center). I turned on the router and allowed it to reach full speed. Using a Grr-ripper, I applied pressure toward the fence and down toward the table to secure it. Then, I slowly fed the piece of wood into the bit (end-grain first, but I also repeated this process in a cross-grain fashion). The bit seemed to struggle for the first ~3/4” cut, and then would not cut further. The wood started to scorch from the bit spinning in the same space for an extended period of time. I then stopped pushing because I felt the situation became dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This situation happened again with a dovetail bit, where I aligned the fence so that it passed over the center of the bit (i.e. 0” from the bit). The dovetail bit cut better than the 3/4, but struggled and caused massive tearout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what the issue could be? Since the bits have carbide tips, I don’t know how I could attempt to sharpen them. The router does not have a variable speed dial. Could it be the RPMs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10512" LastEditorUserId="10512" LastEditDate="2021-05-31T15:28:22.827" LastActivityDate="2021-06-03T11:26:14.480" Title="Brand new CMT router bits won’t cut" Tags="|router-bit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12885" CreationDate="2021-05-31T16:25:44.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After inspecting the bits, I believe all are completely dull. I suppose I’ll find someone to sharpen them/verify this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10512" LastEditorUserId="10512" LastEditDate="2021-06-03T11:26:14.480" LastActivityDate="2021-06-03T11:26:14.480" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12882" CreationDate="2021-06-02T16:40:51.947" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know how to calculate it, but it passes the sniff test when compared to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.britannica.com/sports/parallel-bars&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;parallel bars&lt;/a&gt; used in gymnastics: These are made of (unspecified) wood, are 11.5ft long and 2 inches thick. They are of course made to support people who weigh more than 200lbs, doing very dynamic movements (literally jumping off of the bar and landing back on it. There are of course two of them but gymnasts often support themselves on one bar along.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oak (any type as far as I can see) is among the stronger wood species for bending/break resistance like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing I could think to compare it to is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3riversarchery.com/blog/beginners-guide-to-building-a-hickory-longbow/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;longbow&lt;/a&gt;. The plans on the page linked say to start with a piece of hickory 1&amp;quot; thick and 1.5&amp;quot; wide, with the bending force in the 1&amp;quot; direction (though the maximum thickness will only be kept in the centre of the bow, at the grip - the ends will be tapered down significantly. Obviously hickory is more flexible and the purpose of this is very different, but it gives you some idea by comparison of the strength and rigidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, I think you'll be fine, so long as it's a piece clear of any splits, shakes, knots etc and the bearing portions of the dowel are designed correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Now with testing! It turns out I have a piece of dowel which is about the right size. It's 31mm diameter (so a little under 1-1/4&amp;quot;), appears to be beech (which according to figures I can find is very similar in strength to red oak), and is 675mm long (25-1/2&amp;quot;). I currently weigh about 198lbs, and I just tried supporting the dowel on two 2x4s and jumping on to the middle, with a single heel, as hard as I can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dowel:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JXvQA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JXvQA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dowel&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The setup:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c8a32.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c8a32.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Setup&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Owq3F.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The test&lt;/a&gt; (click through for video on Imgur - couldn't embed here as it's too large).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From this testing I can tell you with some confidence that with a sound dowel with good grain, you have absolutely no chance of breaking it by using it how you're describing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastEditorUserId="272" LastEditDate="2021-06-04T22:58:20.540" LastActivityDate="2021-06-04T22:58:20.540" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12882" CreationDate="2021-06-03T15:36:29.290" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR:&lt;/strong&gt; Use a metal pole. Commercial dowels are not a good material to use for pull-up bars. The supports for the metal pole can be wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to take the unpopular opinion and suggest that random oak from a big-box store is not going to work. Or, at least, it'll work until it doesn't, often in a spectacular manner. And it isn't really about the dimensions of the oak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This Question has prompted discussion about other similar sorts of equipment, but the fact is most gymnastics equipment using lengths of &amp;quot;wood&amp;quot; are neither wood anymore, and don't operate like simple pull-up bars. There are pages of specs for gymnastic equipment that uses bars or poles around flexibility and allowance of movement without falling off. They are not intended to be stiff, and consequently any comparison for simple pull-up bars is not helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the face of it, maybe being able to select the &lt;em&gt;right&lt;/em&gt; dowel created from the &lt;em&gt;right&lt;/em&gt; lumber might work, but random dowels machine formed from whatever &amp;quot;oak&amp;quot; has been sourced at competitive prices should not be used for workout equipment meant to support ~100kg dynamic loads (or more; we probably want to design for 50% or more past our expected load).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stiff and strong means a sudden failure mode, which would be very unpleasant. The main reason is that no one has taken the time to machine the dowel from relatively straight and tight grain without voids or minimizing edge-grain leading to the circumference. These are all failure points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of how wood is used in typical spans. Either we are using nearly entire trunks (in rustic builds) that take advantage of how the tree itself is reasonably strong, or we cut dimension lumber from that (in a variety of ways that can maximize yield &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; strength) and use it in a manner that minimizes these sorts of failures. If you have access to a reasonably strong and straight pole of hardwood (i.e., not a dowel cut from some cross-section of commercial timber) then maybe you could trust the bar. The comment about how baseball bats are created from wood (and noting which side the label is printed on the bat) is telling us that for some uses wood has to be hand-selected and hand-finished, and has to have force applied to it in the right way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood is a great building material, but carpentry is about working within its natural limitations and designing for its strengths. A pull-up bar with commercially available dowels does neither.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-08-28T22:50:57.363" LastActivityDate="2021-08-28T22:50:57.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12890" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-04T17:58:40.503" Score="1" ViewCount="162" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always used the strongest JD weld epoxy for glue ups rated at something like 5000 psi 'just to be safe' since the only downside was having to wait around 12 hours for curing &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-weld-syringe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-weld-syringe&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But recently I saw they have a quick bonding one for wood that's rated at 1800 psi &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jbweld.com/product/woodweld-syringe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.jbweld.com/product/woodweld-syringe&lt;/a&gt; and stated that it actually bonds stronger than wood. That got me thinking and I looked up sheer psi for wood &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodworkweb.com/woodwork-topics/wood/146-wood-strengths.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.woodworkweb.com/woodwork-topics/wood/146-wood-strengths.html&lt;/a&gt; (and obviously there are a lot of factors that will affect these numbers) and they were around 2000 (again I didn't deep dive into how exactly testing was done).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also looked up PSI for decent wood glue and titebond 2 is right around 1,800.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So am I wasting my time using long cure epoxy for furniture building and repairs? I can buy 1 minute instant epoxy with sheer PSI of 3000+ is there any downside to switching to it working with wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9309" LastActivityDate="2021-06-04T19:11:53.363" Title="Does epoxy PSI rating really matter for wood?" Tags="|furniture|adhesives|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12890" CreationDate="2021-06-04T19:03:02.077" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One chooses adhesives for many qualities, and strength is only one of them. I'd go so far to say that, for most of us, the PSI rating of a bond is not even the most important quality to consider when choosing an adhesive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Reducing the entire science and craft of adhesive choice to a few lines in a Q&amp;amp;A site is a fool's errand, and this is in &lt;em&gt;no&lt;/em&gt; way a comprehensive discussion of the pros, cons, and uses of these glues. This is for discussion purposes only. For details I always recommend reading the scintillating verbiage on the label.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typical PVA wood glue is plenty strong enough for most construction and repair, but a strong bond depends on a very tight fit and good clamping (whether that is done with actual clamps, or glue-and-screw).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Epoxy would be chosen when you need that strength, and you need to bond dissimilar materials, or you need to fill some gaps. Hide glue would be a good choice for gap-filling when you don't need ultimate bond strength (or you want to be able to take it apart easier at a later time). Contact cement would be chosen when you want to permanently display your mistakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cyanoacrylates are excellent for filling small voids or building up damaged material, or when you want to rely on its ability to wick into tight places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if your repairs involve tight and relatively clean wood surfaces and you can clamp well, PVA is fine. If you are working with joints that aren't mating well, then other adhesives might be a better choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once cured, any well-chosen adhesive properly applied will make strong bonds that will likely be stronger than the wood around it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-06-04T19:11:53.363" LastActivityDate="2021-06-04T19:11:53.363" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12892" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12895" CreationDate="2021-06-07T15:14:11.227" Score="1" ViewCount="830" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a new set of drill bits the other day, and there's a hollow plastic tube with a spring inside - any idea what it is and how it works? I'm guessing something to do with centring?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit to add - I've no idea what to call the drill bits in general, but it's this set (Erbauer 4659X):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-straight-shank-mixed-drill-bit-set-50-pieces/4659X?tc=TT2&amp;amp;ds_kid=92700055262507123&amp;amp;ds_rl=1244066&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-straight-shank-mixed-drill-bit-set-50-pieces/4659X?tc=TT2&amp;amp;ds_kid=92700055262507123&amp;amp;ds_rl=1244066&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, looking at that site, I think it's something called a screw starter - still not sure what it's for though...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Posting an image...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZAATu.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZAATu.png&quot; alt=&quot;[1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Sa3b.png&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10532" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-06-10T07:57:15.697" LastActivityDate="2021-06-10T07:57:15.697" Title="What is this accessory from a mixed set of drill bits?" Tags="|drilling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12893" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-07T17:47:07.450" Score="0" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;When working with a log with 2 or 3 square, flat sides and 1 or 2 live edges, what are some good ways to carry measurement markings from the flat sides onto the live edge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am interested in marking both parallel to and perpendicular to the grain direction. Straight lines are valuable, but answers should ideally have potential to give straight lines of known length. Some measuring tools I have access to: square, plumb line, chalk line, level, ruler, compass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am asking as a pure hand-tool user (that is, not about milling from a log). I am asking about laying out joints or other non-full-length geometries on stock with live edges. When I make a rip or a crosscut, I need to scribe a line on each face or else I won't get it quite right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e.g: I was cutting two rabbet joints for &amp;quot;waterfall&amp;quot; style legs on a thick slab table with two live edges. This required making a rip with both ends on live edge and the corners between rip and crosscut both fall on live edge. How would you lay out measurements when you need them on an irregular surface that can't take a straightedge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10326" LastEditorUserId="10326" LastEditDate="2021-06-08T17:01:12.227" LastActivityDate="2021-06-08T17:01:12.227" Title="Transfer Measurement/Marking to a Live Edge" Tags="|measurement|live-edge|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12894" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12896" CreationDate="2021-06-08T06:35:07.403" Score="0" ViewCount="796" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the best ways to smooth out shallow cuts in a piece of wood that is &amp;quot;mostly flat&amp;quot; but definitely a little warped, and has no requirement to be made flat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This came from trees a friend cut himself, and so to be clear the primary problem is not that the wood has warped a little, but rather that there are a million little lines in the wood from the chainsaw (or whatever he used to cut it). The only &amp;quot;problem&amp;quot; I have with the wood being slightly warped is that it's now very difficult to take out those lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought I could smooth out the cuts with my orbital sander and some 32 grit sandpaper... and technically it would work if I had enough time, but I have a day job, a wife, and 3 kids under 5 years old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have a couple planes I've tried (after tuning/sharpening them), but the small one is too much physical effort and the medium sized one can't really get into the more concave sections of the wood. But still I'm a bit curious if someone who's skilled with planes would say it's reasonably possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8139" LastActivityDate="2021-06-10T13:35:45.630" Title="Smoothing an uneven piece of wood" Tags="|wood|hand-planing|warp|random-orbit-sander|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12892" CreationDate="2021-06-08T12:00:13.750" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aha! (and I'm glad to see I wasn't the only one who was mystified):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/whatisthisthing/comments/cw2pqv/what_are_those_plastic_things_in_my_drill_bits_set/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.reddit.com/r/whatisthisthing/comments/cw2pqv/what_are_those_plastic_things_in_my_drill_bits_set/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(they're for holding flat-head screws in place whilst you start screwing, so associated with the screw-bits, rather than the drill-bits)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10532" LastActivityDate="2021-06-08T12:00:13.750" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12894" CreationDate="2021-06-08T12:18:33.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't mention the rough dimensions of the piece, or whether it is hard or soft or in-between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible, of course. This was how wood was brought into the shop and then resawn or already rough sawn. There is a whole practice of preparing stock for actual use with hand tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you've noticed, sandpaper is not the right tool. Sandpaper isn't for removing lots of material, unless it is for contouring on a spindle sander. Certainly not the right (hand) tool for flattening a surface. Not only is it slow and messy, it isn't very good at giving you any reasonable flatness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A plane is what you want to use. Ideally, you want the equivalent of a #4 to #5 plane. Since we don't know what wood or tools you have the best advice is to start removing material across or along the board. You start with very light passes, adjusting the depth until you are taking decent ribbons of wood off the surface. It is fine to just skip over the hollows at first -- the act of planing a surface is about taking all the high spots down, really.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't have to be jamming hard on the plane; it should be a relatively regular and smooth action. If you find yourself digging in and tearing wood out, back the depth off. If the problem persists, resharpen or adjust the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is variety of plane called a &amp;quot;scrub&amp;quot; intended for removing lots of material fast, which is basically a shorter &amp;quot;jack&amp;quot; plane that allows you to get into some of the hollows, often coupled with a profiled or notched blade that removes material fast. You'd follow this up with a more careful smoothing pass with a flatter, longer plane. But there is no &lt;em&gt;requirement&lt;/em&gt; that a scrub plane be purchased or used (but check if you have a tool lending &amp;quot;library&amp;quot; in your area) as any middle-sized plane can work with a little patience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, the blade should be sharp. Like, &amp;quot;pass through paper easily, shave the hair on your arms&amp;quot; sharp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For removing a lot of wood, if you have a plane with an adjustable mouth (i.e., you can change how narrow the blade slot is) it should be a bit wider than for smoothing or finishing work. Sight down the sole of the plane and make sure the same amount of blade is poking out along the width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take care to note whether your plane is intended for bevel-up or bevel-down operation. Most planes will be bevel-down, unless you have a low-angle plane of some sort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that you push with your body, not your arms, which should remain in the relatively same position relative to your body and the tool. The idea is nice even force across the material without removing or lifting the sole from the work at the end. Drag it back, reposition, and go for another overlapping stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is one of those cases where visiting many of the YouTube channels on hand tools will show you better than we can tell you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-06-10T13:35:45.630" LastActivityDate="2021-06-10T13:35:45.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12897" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-08T19:17:40.990" Score="1" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to build a drawer similar to the picture below. I already have a panel-style door which is ~ 560 x 780mm with solid 20mm maple as stiles and rails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will be pulling this drawer ~ 20 times per day, 600 times per month, and 7000+ per year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the picture below, (taken from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ovisonline.com/Rev-A-Motion-Single-50-Qt-Trash-Can-P493.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.ovisonline.com/Rev-A-Motion-Single-50-Qt-Trash-Can-P493.aspx&lt;/a&gt;) it looks like the drawer is about 1/5 of the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concern is having a small drawer and the handle on the top, the force will be unevenly distributed, and eventually, the front be tilted forward and the screws coming loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do understand no one has a clear answer without testing out, but my intuition from the picture 1/5 looks too little, and would like to hear if anyone has experience or thoughts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xSqeC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xSqeC.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9905" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-06-09T06:34:36.703" LastActivityDate="2021-06-09T06:34:36.703" Title="How tall can a drawer front be?" Tags="|drawer-construction|drawer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12897" CreationDate="2021-06-08T21:54:30.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nothing is stopping you from making a false front the full height of the drawer and reinforcing the connection between the false front and the body of the drawer. This was the connection between the real front and the false front isn't stressed (so you can use short screws from the back) while the stressed part of the false front and the body of the drawer can be as beefy as you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made a similar drawer (albeit under a sink, so not full height). The real front is 23&amp;quot; tall and the false front is 14&amp;quot; tall. It's used multiple times a day (and by young children as well) for about 2 years now without any issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/obJYm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/obJYm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;High drawer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2021-06-08T21:54:30.830" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7148" CreationDate="2021-06-10T15:44:17.897" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just saw a Facebook page Craftsmanslegacy.  He talks about soaking the wood or placing really wet rags in the curve of the wood and flattening it down and as soon as it is flat painting the wood with a mixture of white glue and water. The wood soaks up this mixture and it hardens inside the capillaries of the wood, where the sap used to be, and hardens the wood in the straight shape. He's also on Instagram&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10576" LastActivityDate="2021-06-10T15:44:17.897" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12901" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-13T01:50:59.627" Score="1" ViewCount="133" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a table and set of benches in the garden, made of Jarrah wood. The only treatment they've had is regular coating with Jarrah oil, so they are nice and dark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the benches have recently been broken by people who shall remain nameless. I can't find a decent Jarrah supply on the California coast. So I guess we'll need to use something native.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have a suggestion for something which will darken with age (to match the existing Jarrah) as it is left outside 24/7, and stand up to the wear and tear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's some images of the damaged parts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SulMF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SulMF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ends split where hardware was inserted&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oqQXh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oqQXh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Full piece (you can see an intact one on right&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8754" LastEditorUserId="8754" LastEditDate="2021-06-18T23:36:03.040" LastActivityDate="2021-06-18T23:36:03.040" Title="What is a good US Wood to repair some Jarrah furniture?" Tags="|wood-selection|hardwood|outdoor|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="18" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12902" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-16T23:10:08.000" Score="2" ViewCount="165" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a TV nook originally built to accommodate the big, bulky rear projection TVs back in the day.  I'll soon be building some cabinetry for it and hanging a 65&amp;quot; flat screen in the space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to have the option to close the cabinet and hide the TV, receiver, etc.  I don't like having that stuff being the focus of the room.  I've looked at pocket &amp;quot;flipper&amp;quot; door hardware and the math doesn't work out for the depth available and the width or height to be covered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm looking for other ideas - one possibility is sliding door analogous to a roll top desk, but with wider panels than the narrow slats typically used for those.  Thinking about it, I guess it would be more like an overhead garage door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone seen something like this done?  Ideas/sources for this sort of hardware?  My main concern is racking &amp;amp; binding - the end results has to be smooth, quiet and easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit 2021-06-17&#xA;I may have found an analog for the garage door track:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.medicalproductsdirect.com/hanprivscree1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.medicalproductsdirect.com/hanprivscree1.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tzDl3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tzDl3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YJF7A.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YJF7A.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zfNJY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zfNJY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; Not sure that curve is tight enough - will take a look this weekend.  Another thing I'm considering is having the door slide sideways instead of up and down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2021-06-17T16:50:53.710" LastActivityDate="2021-06-17T16:50:53.710" Title="&quot;Roll-Top&quot; or garage door like cabinet cover for widescreen TV" Tags="|cabinetry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12902" CreationDate="2021-06-17T12:07:12.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As noted in the comments, you're looking to build a &amp;quot;tambour&amp;quot; door, and I think it might look rather nice!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your desire is to use wider panels, I think you're going to be a bit on your own heading out into uncharted waters, as usually they're built with narrow slats in order to successfully make the complex turns in both directions usually associated with tambour doors. However, I've got a couple of thoughts that may help you out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually tambour doors are narrow slats, radiused on top and bottom, then &lt;em&gt;usually&lt;/em&gt; glued to a strip of canvas or similar material near each end. The radius allows the slats to slip past each other a bit as they go around curves, and the canvas holds the whole assembly together so moving one moves them all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make your wide slat door, you're probably going to want to continue with the radiused edges. Your other option would be to rabbet the edges so they overlap just like your regular overhead garage door. These rabbets work well to help weather seal a garage door and help provide strength along the edge for the 8-16 foot span of a normal garage door, but &lt;em&gt;my opinion&lt;/em&gt; is that the rounded edges will look better on a furniture quality piece of work, however, that's up to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go with a standard tambour construction, you're going to have to have very wide slots where the slats make their curves so that there's room for them to make the corner without jamming. If you have enough clearance in the top of the cabinet (behind a valance/trim strip), I think you could probably get away with this, as the top strip would be fully vertical when the door was completely closed, and wouldn't start its backward/curving motion until (just) after you start opening it. If, however, you don't have enough clearance at the top, then the top strip will be curved backwards, leaving a gap. While you're not trying to weather proof your TV nook (you're not, are you? :D ), it will look odd since the panel won't be fully closed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To resolve this, I would think that you could install a single metal pin (potentially with a plastic wheel) into the edge of each door slat. The other end of the pin (or wheel) would ride in a groove machined into the side of the cabinet. Placing the pin in the vertical center of the slat would allow the slats to pivot around a single point and should significantly tighten the turning radius they could make, thus allowing you to get away with much less overhead clearance. The slats would, of course, have to be attached to each other with some sort of hinge, and I'd suggest that the canvas strips at each edge (possibly with one or two spread across the width, as well) would be more than sufficient for the job. In this installation, the slats would fit &lt;em&gt;between&lt;/em&gt; the side panels of the cabinet with only the pin sticking into the groove milled in the cabinet wall - if it weren't for the top of the cabinet or the face frame (and the fact that they're attached to each other), each slat would be able to spin freely on its center pin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, you're going to have to make one or more prototypes to test out possible turning radii for your track, and to make adjustments as necessary on the edges of the slats to ensure they're going to clear each other as they go around the turn. Additionally, you may find that you need a bit of slack in the webbing connecting the slats to allow them to move slightly independently as they navigate the corner. You may also have to play with different widths of slats to find a compromise between the look you're going for and the functionality you desire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible that the single, centered pin may end up &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; working at all. If that's the case, I'd adjust the prototype to use two pins, one pin near each vertical end of each slat. If you go this route, you should be able to navigate a much sharper turn, as the pivot point will be closer to the end of the slat, thus requiring less clearance from the top (and potentially back) of the cabinet. As a slat makes the corner, the wood will straight-line the curve of the groove as the pins follow the groove precisely, but that's OK while it's in motion or even stopped part-way up to show off your handy work. Again, some prototyping work will be in order to figure out the radii of the track grooves, offset of the pins from the edges of the slats, and radii required at the top/bottom edges of each slat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2021-06-17T12:07:12.390" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12905" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-20T15:53:48.347" Score="3" ViewCount="440" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a coffee table with legs that are sub-assembled with a miter joint. See photo. The plans call for a Domino or dowels in addition to a spline [edit: key, see link below] for added strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't own a Festool Domino joiner and I'm struggling to plan out a way to accurately drill for dowels into the miters. My question is whether the miter joints will be strong enough with just glue plus the key glued in? I acknowledge that I could also do pocket holes on the underneath, and they would be hidden well, but if they aren't necessary then I'd like to avoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The picture shows in red where the key would go. The Domino/dowels are supposed to go at the bottom of the miter joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Author's Edit&lt;/em&gt;: I've added a complete picture of the table for additional context. You should now be able to see how the leg in question supports the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dpC8M.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dpC8M.png&quot; alt=&quot;Leg Sub Assembly&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sBY26.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sBY26.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10616" LastEditorUserId="10616" LastEditDate="2021-06-21T13:36:46.307" LastActivityDate="2021-06-21T19:41:25.253" Title="Strengthened leg miter joint with spline [key]" Tags="|joinery|strength|dowel|miter-joint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12905" CreationDate="2021-06-21T03:41:48.110" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plans call for a domino or dowel, plus a spline for added strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just so you know, this is probably overkill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many such legs are reinforced by just one means, not two, and the tables survive use just fine. However, you can by all means reinforce in two (or more!) ways because you trust the plan and want to go with it exactly as written, or simply for peace of mind because you like to over-engineer any critical joint, just in case; nothing wrong with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re. how the plan is written, be aware that the writer has fallen into the modern trap of sloppy terminology — what are marked in red are &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1129/strong-joints-to-use-when-making-custom-frames/1140#1140&quot;&gt;keys, not splines&lt;/a&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also regarding the author's specific implementation of keys here, two thinner ones would add more strength than a single fatter key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm struggling to plan out a way to accurately drill dowels into the miters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh this is easy. If you drill the holes separately it's really just a matter of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;accurate initial marking out (use a gauge and/or dividers to mark each joint face from the same datum surfaces)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;then careful drilling perpendicular to the mitre surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OR, one of my favourite solutions when it comes to dowel reinforcements, just drill the holes &lt;em&gt;after assembly&lt;/em&gt;, i.e. using &lt;strong&gt;through dowels&lt;/strong&gt;. Once a mitre is assembled it's a snap to drill right through the joint to sufficient depth that the dowels seat deeply into the second piece of wood; in this case drill down from the top so you get decent penetration into the legs. Incidentally, the exact angle of the dowels isn't critical, and, each one doesn't have to be consistent with its neighbour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't own a Festool domino joiner&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well you certainly don't need one hehe ^_^&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seriously though, dowel joinery has been shown in multiple tests to be just as strong or stronger, is nearly as fast to do (close enough as makes no odds in some cases), it doesn't require a specialist mono-tasking tool which let's face it, is not cheap (understatement) and &lt;em&gt;doesn't then tie you to a fastener that is also, ahem, not cheap&lt;/em&gt; (magically makes beech cost more than ebony!) and is more difficult to source in difficult circumstances&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand dowels can more easily be bought from a range of sources and if needed, or preferred, shop-made. Now you can of course make your own floating tenons — that's what a Domino is, a specialist kind of floating tenon — but by comparison dowels are much, much faster to make&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; and allow you to use various offcuts and scraps that are smaller so a better frugal option&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt;. Also worth bearing in mind that now that we have easy access to epoxies dowels don't even need to be wood. Comparatively, dowel joinery is full of win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; I don't know why but people seem to have trouble keeping track of which is which. But I think it's fairly easy to remember that keys always cross the joint, while splines run along the joint (or &lt;em&gt;splines line up with the joint&lt;/em&gt; if you want a mnemonic).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Normally this point is a little forced TBH — one usual example being, what if you run out in the middle of a weekend? — but not in recent times when sources of supply have dwindled or dried up entirely and deliveries have been slow (to the point of farce in some cases) or even non-existent.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Using a shop-made dowel plate..... or if money is super tight, &lt;a href=&quot;https://paulsellers.com/2013/07/poor-mans-dowel-maker/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;just a washer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt; Can even be quickly, and safely, made from firewood if necessary! [By splitting off chunks and riving them down to approximate cross section in stages, which also ensures the dowels have super-straight grain so are as strong as poss. This process doesn't require a froe, a hatchet or axe, or even a chisel, I've done it by batoning with a stout kitchen knife more than once.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-06-21T03:41:48.110" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12905" CreationDate="2021-06-21T19:41:25.253" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My main concern with your sketch of the leg is that the key is at the outside corner of the leg segment intersection.  The weight on the table will want to cause the two pieces of the leg to splay out increasing the angle between them. The lower inside corner of the leg segments will want to pull away.  The &amp;quot;key&amp;quot; (ahem, tribute to Graphus) is located at the top, outside corner and does not extend all the way along the joint to the bottom, inside corner.  The key is located at the point in the joint where it is needed least. Since you are including a spline (oops!), I would extend  it all the way along the length of the joint. With such glued joint there is no need for dowels.  The keyway can be easily cut on both leg segments on a table saw with a proper jig to secure the piece for its saw run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2021-06-21T19:41:25.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10806" CreationDate="2021-06-23T17:58:07.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used Minwax's polycrylic on many bookcases and small desks.  Never had any problem.  About 8 years ago I refinished a maple dining table.  It has gotten progressively more, and more sticky in that time.  Now, even paper napkins and newspaper stick to it, ripping apart if you pick them up.  At some locations, the stuff has totally been rubbed off and bare wood is exposed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A woman that does alot of furniture refurbishing told me she has seen &amp;quot;bad batches&amp;quot; of polycrylic that won't harden.  I am about to strip it and try again; I am not sure I want to risk using the same product again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10627" LastActivityDate="2021-06-23T17:58:07.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12909" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-24T13:27:27.047" Score="3" ViewCount="169" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have used beech in our bathroom and used WoodDoc Antique Wax to protect it. Unfortunately, although it looked beautiful, it did nothing to protect the surface from water splashes. We stripped the wax finish using white spirits as recommended and sanded the surface down.&#xA;After some research and feedback from a company that supplies Osmo oil based finishes, we ordered the Osmo 4006 wood protector and the 1101 extra thin finish coat which is supposed to protect against water damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We were advised to do a test run, which we did on a pair of beech side tables which had also previously been treated with antique wax. After removing the wax and sanding the surface, we applied the Osmo wood protector. The result was terrible blotching which had not been apparent after waxing. Applying the finish coat did nothing to remedy the mottled blotchy appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since then, further research has revealed that German beech is also prone to blotching with the use of tung oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do finish do you recommend that will allow us to maintain the beauty of the natural wood and provide a waterproof barrier against water splashes? Similar question did not deal with this specific problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10626" LastActivityDate="2021-06-24T13:27:27.047" Title="Best clear finish for German beech to avoid blotching?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2021-07-08T14:01:40.263" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12910" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12912" CreationDate="2021-06-24T20:49:30.877" Score="2" ViewCount="249" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a small carved wooden pendant of an owl with its wings outspread, unfortunately one of the wings snapped off in a clean break.  What's the best way to put it back together without worrying that the wing might break off again someday and I lose it permanently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of just using Elmer's Wood Glue or some super glue, holding it together with my hands for awhile and then leaving it to dry, just want to know if there's a preferred best practice for something like this.  The pendant is of course in a unique shape so clamping isn't really an option if that's a thing.  Thanks!  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wHNGz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wHNGz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;the broken pendant&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10631" LastActivityDate="2021-06-25T17:57:52.630" Title="Best way to fix broken wooden pendant?" Tags="|glue|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12910" CreationDate="2021-06-24T23:47:50.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;More than once have I been confronted with a similar problem.  My &amp;quot;go to&amp;quot; solution is to use wood glue with clamping provided by rubber bands.  I wouldn't try holding wood glue until it set.  You might be able to get away with such an approach if you use super glue, but my attempts at that solution have given me a patch that doesn't last.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before gluing, work out a way to wrap the rubber bands to give a snug mating between the two pieces of wood. Once you get a good fit, remove the rubber bands and dry fit it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having practiced making the fit, apply glue.  I always apply a little glue to both pieces, squeeze them together until glue is oozing out of the joint, pull them apart, carefully wipe away the excess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put the two glued pieces together again, apply the rubber bands as you practiced.  Carefully adjust the alignment, set the pendant asie, and wait until the glue sets - I would wait a couple of hours or more.  Carefully remove the rubber bands - maybe even cut them so that you don't place any stress on your new glue joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2021-06-24T23:47:50.363" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12910" CreationDate="2021-06-25T17:57:52.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clean the mating surfaces with a cotton swab dipped in isopropyl alcohol or acetone and let dry. It looks like the pendant is made from some sort of dense and potentially oily wood, and you'll need clean surfaces to get a good bond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clamp the larger piece in a small vice with some padding to protect the part. You want the part held firmly enough that it won't move around while you're working on it, but not so much that you'll crush it or snap off another piece. A wooden hand screw would work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Put the parts together dry, so that they're exactly the way you want them. Apply a piece of painter's tape to the back of the pendant to help hold it in place. The tape will make a sort of hinge, so that you can still open up the seam to get some glue in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Figure out how you're going to get some rubber bands on there to hold things together as the glue cures. You don't need a huge amount of force, but it really does need to be held firmly. You'll probably only get one good shot at gluing, so you might want to practice applying those bands a few times first. Note that the bands don't necessarily have to go around the clamped part... you could create some attachment points elsewhere. For example, if you're using a wooden clamp, you can drive some small nails or hooks into the clamp and connect the rubber bands to those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Using the tape hinge, open up the seam a bit from the front. Use a toothpick or maybe a straight pin (anything very small and pointy) to apply a small amount of glue all along the seam. You won't need a lot, but you want to get a the glue on most of the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Close up the seam, wipe away any glue that squeezes out, and apply the bands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think PVA (wood) glue is probably fine for this, but I'd be tempted to use a medium-thickness cyanoacrylate glue, which will set up much more quickly, especially if you give it a shot of accelerant after applying the bands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2021-06-25T17:57:52.630" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12913" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-25T19:14:20.267" Score="0" ViewCount="845" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to put up some glass walls in a rented space that has hardwood floors. The issue is that the hardwood floors were replaced right before our lease and management is reluctant to allow anything to be screwed into the new floors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the glass walls need to be screwed into the floor. The floors are a little slopey (especially near the walls), so I thought a good solution would be to use shims and a flat-lying 2x4 on top of the floor to create a somewhat straight &amp;quot;floor&amp;quot; and screw the walls into those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to do this.. is there a good way to connect this 2x4 to the floor without using screws? Someone suggested &amp;quot;siliconing&amp;quot;, but I'm not sure what that entails or if that would work here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10640" LastActivityDate="2021-07-27T15:16:29.647" Title="Connecting a 2x4 to hardwood floor.. without screws?" Tags="|hardwood|flooring|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12914" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-26T06:15:06.433" Score="3" ViewCount="3610" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for the type of saw that will most easily, reliably and precisely cut a piece of wood lengthwise without the need for a lot of preparation or cleverness. I also want it to be a reasonable thing to own (in terms of price and space) for someone who isn't (yet) especially dedicated to woodworking and isn't extremely wealthy or poor. In other words, I don't mind spending a couple of hundred bucks on something that I probably won't use very often but when I do use it, the job will be a lot easier. I do mind spending a couple of thousand bucks on such a thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Background:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not really a woodworker at all. It's interesting to me so perhaps one day I will pursue it when I have more spare time. However, I do do a lot of DIY projects for fun and as needed. Pretty much every single time that I've needed to cut some wood, I've had to do a lengthwise cut (I think it's called ripping but not 100% sure). While my circular saw can do a decent job on width-wise cuts (cross-cuts, I believe), when it comes to length-wise, it always comes out poorly and setting it up is difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I've seen videos where people build all kinds of jigs and clamp things down in clever ways. That's all really cool but most of the time when I'm doing a project, I'm just not going to be that clever and/or I'm not going to have the spare wood lying around. I just want the wood cut to the right size so I can focus on other things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for example, I want something where I can easily split a 2x4 in half lengthwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of saw should I be looking for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10643" LastActivityDate="2021-06-26T14:05:16.080" Title="Proper type of saw to reliably and easily cut wood lengthwise" Tags="|rip-cut|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12914" CreationDate="2021-06-26T14:05:16.080" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In terms of quality, table saw would give you the best results in terms of cleanliness of cut, accuracy and repeatability. It comes with a few caveats. I'll touch on circular, jig, and bandsaws as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Table saws&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quality of the tool is obviously important. I don't have a fancy cabinet saw, nor even so-called contractor saw, but I'm fortunate enough to use my father's serious DIY saw (BT3100-series system, interesting modular beast with loyal following that was sold in early 2000s by Ryobi, then couple years as Craftsman) that was in $400-500 range new. It has decent fence that latches both front and back (important feature), and maintains repeatable square (although I check it every time before important finish cuts) without deflection. It has relatively wide capacity, allowing to work with large chunks of sheet goods, and above average built-in detachable crosscut sled (nothing like, say, precision Incra or Kreg, but much better than throwaway mitre gauges).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One can achieve decent results with DIY/jobsite saw, but one needs to be mindful of capacities and aforementioned features to choose a tool that allows you to do adequate work without fighting it too much. I would skip entry-level (sub-$150 new) saws, but good deals can be had in that range used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Space, as mentioned in the comments, is an important consideration, but jobsite saws often come in compact form-factors that can be stowed away (or incorporated into the workbench that also increases their outfeed and wide capacities), or with folding (sometimes also rolling) stands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last, but not least, there are safety considerations, both by themselves, and how they relate to quality and ease of use. Ripping long boards without help and/or adequate infeed/outfeed support is tricky. Blade guards are important, but I've worked with saws where blade guards would interfere with taller material, or, say, where when you do need to take a blade guard off (e.g., dado cut), it's inseparable from a riving knife, so you lose two safety features at once. I often work with open blade, but that requires experience, and extra care: good infeed/outfeed support, no clutter around the saw to eliminate tripping hazards, push sticks/blocks, not placing hands or body over, or in front of the blade etc. Healthy amount of respect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Circular saws (and jigsaws)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whilst it wouldn't be my first choice (as a matter of fact, I've never &lt;em&gt;had&lt;/em&gt; to make fine rip cuts with these), it's possible with some preparation. Circular saw is hands down a must-have power saw for a DIY beginner (jigsaw can do in a pinch as well, but I wouldn't recommend it due to the fact that it's easier for the blade to deflect and wander), and second power tool after a drill, especially, where cost and space are prime concerns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whilst there may be better suited tools for particular tasks, fine work can be done with half-decent circular saw. There are entire fine furniture projects done only with a circular saw just to make a point. As an example of precision of a circular saw with a Kreg track, here are the parts for one of my projects, which were replicated with a flush trim router bit, but the initial part was cut with a handheld saw, and it was about the only way to do it, save for the CNC:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qjuBb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;example of parts template cut with a circular saw&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To rip a board with a circular saw with a degree of accuracy you'd need to fully support the work piece, elevate and support the shoe of the saw in line with, or above and parallel the surface of the board, and use a track. In a pinch, you can throw several 2-by boards next to one another on saw horses to provide support for the shoe, but finding straight boards like that is notoriously difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, I'd place the board on a piece of hard foam insulation (I use it as a sacrificial backing for sheet goods), elevate the saw using another board or stacking sheet goods, and then use a long piece of plywood or MDF with a factory edge (absent of factory straight edge, or a track, such as those from Bora or Kreg) clamped down, as a guide for the saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bandsaws&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My experience with these is limited (I've only started using one couple of months ago), but it can be done. Problem with a bandsaws is that decent ones with large enough power and capacity are harder to come by and aren't cheap (although, with luck and patience deals can be had: because of seller's poor communication, I've missed out on 1980s 14&amp;quot; bandsaw requiring minimal tune up for $80 this spring). They're heavy (even my bench top 10&amp;quot; Rikon is beefy), take up space, it's harder to organize infeed/outfeed, and the rip cuts are relatively rough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the plus side, they're probably one of the safer saws. Because the blade moves downward only, there's no kick back, and you can let go of the work piece whilst the blade spins without the former moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5987" LastActivityDate="2021-06-26T14:05:16.080" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12918" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-28T12:33:35.637" Score="0" ViewCount="4322" Body="&lt;p&gt;I threw out my old bed since it was falling apart and this is when it all went downhill. First I got a new bed (upholstered, unfisnished MDF board) that had such a strong odor, it invaded all the rooms so I returned it after 2 weeks, as the odor got stronger - the manufacturer said they have never heard of any complaint like that. Thanks to the internet I thought it might have been the unfinished MDF releasing formaldehyde, since it also made me cough and my eyes were burning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then I ordered an IKEA natural pine wood bed base (unfinished + upholstered Espevar) which had a very strong chemical odor too. Since it comes disassembled I just put it into another room next to the window for 1 month to let it air out. As soon as I assembled the bed, it had almost similar strong chemical odor as the MDF bed that made me cough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used acrylic polyurethan finish later to seal it (sadly since it has stuff attached to the wood I could only seal about 95% of it), and after another month I put it back together, only to smell the same chemical odor that the wood produces. It got weaker by about 90% so I can stay in the room next to it at least but it's still difficult to sleep on it, it's pretty strong upclose. I also feel this weird taste in my mouth as soon as I enter the room. It smells a bit like petrol, bitter and overwhelming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So why does a natural pine wood release chemical odor? It seems to happen in all new lumber. When will it stop? Will this even stop, since it didn't after 2 months? I can't even take it back considering I used a finish. I fear it will impact my health since it's a very small room and I work in home office next to the bed, so I spend like 90% of my time there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Literally none of my old (wood and mdf) furniture had or has any odor so I'm baffled why this is suddenly happening with every new furniture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10658" LastActivityDate="2023-07-06T22:04:57.457" Title="Natural pine wood bed has strong chemical odor, why is this and how to stop it?" Tags="|wood|furniture|polyurethane|lumber|mdf|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12918" CreationDate="2021-06-28T13:44:47.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've done all you can do. Time and some sealing finishes can reduce some odours. But volatile chemicals (both natural and added) will be released no matter what you do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, maybe. We don't know what you are experiencing. It &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; just be the natural turpenes and other volatiles in the wood off-gassing, or it could be some sort of preparation Ikea uses so they can export wood furniture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many wooden goods have to be treated with pesticides before exporting them to other countries, so maybe that's what is going on here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or it could be the glue (probably some sort of PVA) since in most cases if you look closely the solid pieces are often laminates (which offer decent stability and economy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if it is just natural volatiles we don't know what sort of &amp;quot;pine&amp;quot; this really is (it &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; literally be Swedish Pine, but they buy something like 1% of the world's wood, so who knows) so it is hard to say how long it'll last.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2021-06-28T13:44:47.323" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12918" CreationDate="2021-06-28T15:16:23.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do have a question, do other people notice this odor/chemical?  I ask because it's possible you are/becoming chemically sensitive to something.  As jdv said, there is a good chance the wood was treated with a chemical to meet international shipping (kill pests) or some other similar treatment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If others don't notice it or find it almost unnoticeable, then I'm afraid it's you and it will probably be YEARS before it is gone for your senses.  Think of it like a mild allergic reaction.  If it is you that has become sensitive to this chemical (say the glue even) chances are you're going to be stuck buying used/antique furniture from now on or at least not anything that is mass produced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leaving it outside under a roof (with lots of air movement) would likely speed up the process of what ever chemical is there outgassing/evaporating away.  If it has an obvious smell to everyone, then I'd still try to take it back and explain what is going on and what you tried to do to mitigate the problem.  If they can smell it then you can try to find a different one and check it before bringing it home.  However, buying 2 different types of beds and getting the same smell seems unlikely that both were sitting in the same diesel soaked container on the ship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2021-06-28T15:16:23.223" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12922" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12923" CreationDate="2021-06-29T14:50:15.730" Score="2" ViewCount="544" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've taken on some simple restoration projects in the past with some success (to me anyway) and I have a new one that I'd like to take on. I was given a cane chair that has been sitting in the elements for quite some time. The cane is woven and I'll be weaving a new one, however, the wood (spline? not sure what the word for it is) that hides the weaving on the backrest has warped and expanded due to the elements. How would I go about fixing or replacing that? I can easily pry it out to access the weaving, but I would like to place it back into place after I finish to hide the weave work and create a smooth surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I soak it in hot water or steam it to make it more pliable and force it back into place and trim any excess or do i have to replace it completely? Are there techniques for dealing with this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some pictures of what I am talking about&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1R06N.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1R06N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ogmSR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ogmSR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10660" LastActivityDate="2021-08-02T07:03:30.813" Title="How to fix warped wood in cane chair hiding weaving" Tags="|furniture|wood-repair|restoration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12922" CreationDate="2021-06-30T07:53:17.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I soak it in hot water or steam it to make it more pliable and force it back into place&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you are in a position to make a new one I think this has the greatest chance of success. After you get the strip out to replace the cane and are then ready to reinstall it you &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be able to coax the piece as-is back into position, starting in the middle and working outwards, or starting at one end and working your way along. But obviously with the wood dry like this, and possibly/likely brittle from weathering, there's a greater chance of the piece cracking on you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heating the wood (along with moisture, although that's not vital) is the usual way wood is made pliable enough to bend. I would use &lt;em&gt;boiling&lt;/em&gt; water for this, not merely hot. It's probably not necessary to heat the entire piece, I'd bet it'll work to locally heat the right portion(s) to make the strip amenable to squeezing back into position &lt;em&gt;but be guided by how the wood is responding, not by your prior plan&lt;/em&gt;. Temporarily clamp/wrapping in rubber strips as you go — it wouldn't be safe to tack the wood down as you go in case you need to start again!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be best to get used to the idea that the piece will crack on you at least once even with heating, and be prepared to continue. These strips aren't structural, so it wouldn't be the end of the world if they aren't one long continuous piece of wood, although obviously it won't look as good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You might be temped to re-use the existing nail holes. I would advise against this unless you're moving up to a thicker gauge of brad/panel pin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Same size or not, make sure your new nails aren't too long! If you can't find brads in the gauge you want that are short enough don't hesitate to shorten them yourself&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you are repositioning your nails pre-drill for each and every one to help ensure against splitting&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. The holes can be undersize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do ensure you leave the wood to dry out fully before tacking back into place. Although it'll undoubtedly look dry in about an hour or so it would be best to leave it for a few hours, overnight if possible&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Regardless if you use a mini drill and a cutoff wheel, a pliers or wire cutters to shorten the nails do not worry about losing the point. Nails (of all sizes, not just small brads) can be completely blunt and still work well, actually slightly better in some cases!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; This is assuming you're nailing by hand, disregard if using a nail gun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Overnight drying, or even a full 24 hours, is advisable before continuing work any time you get wood soaking wet. Bear this in mind if you decide you need to use oxalic acid or another product to try to combat the greying, after the thorough rinsing stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-06-30T07:53:17.040" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12924" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-30T09:57:13.423" Score="0" ViewCount="149" Body="&lt;p&gt;With help from these boards I was able to reattach the broken-off wing of this wooden owl pendant using wood glue and some clamping power.  However, I'm not sure I completely trust this little guy to never break again (it's old with considerable wear and may snap again eventually) and was wondering if there's anything I could do to reinforce or protect this little guy so he doesn't break again easily?  Would something like brushed on epoxy resin do the trick?  The back is curved bare wood if that helps.  Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:  I'm not looking merely to reinforce the seam where the wing was joined back to the body, I'm looking to reinforce the ENTIRE pendant so that none of its fragile parts break again.  Was hoping for some straightforward solutions, a friend suggested permanently attaching it to a metal backing but that sounded like a lot of work.  The pendant itself is 2mm thick and you can kinda tell from the picture the face is convex extruding while the back is concave domed so the surfaces are curved, if that helps any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PuNNJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PuNNJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;My little owl pendant with the fixed wing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10631" LastEditorUserId="10631" LastEditDate="2021-06-30T18:38:53.577" LastActivityDate="2021-12-03T19:57:30.877" Title="Reinforcing fragile wooden pendant?" Tags="|strength|physical-protection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12925" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-30T18:30:55.703" Score="0" ViewCount="2492" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to secure a dock ladder to a wooden dock with 4 lag screws.    The wooden dock surface is 2&amp;quot;thick wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10666" LastActivityDate="2021-06-30T20:49:08.830" Title="What diameter pilot hole do I drill to place a 1/2&quot; lag screw?" Tags="|screws|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12925" CreationDate="2021-06-30T20:49:08.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the dock is made from hardwood, then you want about a 7/16&amp;quot; pilot hole.  If it is softwood, about 3/8&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If possible, don't use screws at all, but rather use through bolts with nuts and washers.  They will be much more secure long term.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, you want the size of the pilot hole to be about that of the root diameter of the screw around the threads.  See this thread from &lt;a href=&quot;https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/147062/what-drill-bit-size-to-pilot-drill-hole-into-stud-for-15-64-lag-bolt&quot;&gt;DIY Stackexchange&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2021-06-30T20:49:08.830" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12928" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-02T00:02:46.227" Score="1" ViewCount="283" Body="&lt;p&gt;I refinished a softwood tabletop using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.minwax.ca/wood-products/stains-colour-guide/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Minwax Red Oak 215&lt;/a&gt; stain and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.swingpaints.com/product/760/Circa-1850-Antique-Danish-Oil&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Circa 1850 Antique Danish Oil&lt;/a&gt;. I've waited over &lt;em&gt;6 months&lt;/em&gt; and the oil is &lt;em&gt;still&lt;/em&gt; sticky/tacky! We're talking post-it note levels. I could probably hang this thing on the wall without fasteners. It's still giving off plenty of odour as well! What can I do to get this stuff to cure/harden and finish off-gassing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did one other project using the same finishing oil, but it was on bare wood; no stain involved. That one cured in about a month or two and ended up a really lovely finish with a semi-gloss look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something about the stain that is interfering with the oil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10671" LastActivityDate="2021-07-02T00:02:46.227" Title="Antique Danish Oil is still sticky months after application. How can I get it to cure?" Tags="|finishing|refinishing|tung-oil|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12929" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-02T15:55:53.010" Score="1" ViewCount="3147" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my first attempt on a woodworking project, I am trying to spruce up a dresser made of raw pine wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I stained it using Varathane oil stains. After it dried completely over a couple of days I applied a single coat of the water based Varathane matte clear finish poly. I sanded the wood lightly before applying the stain and before applying the finish coat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The matte clear coat is however tacky and sticky after 48 hours. It could have something to do with the recent humid weather. However, I got worried and sanded with 220 grit sand paper. The stickiness and blotchiness remains after I wiped it down with wet rags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to know how I can clean the wood (without removing anymore of the stain) and should I apply an oil based top coat? Alternately, should I just wipe on another coat of the oil based stain and leave it be? If the stain is allowed to cure for some time without being touched, will it bleed? (The reason I applied the top coat was because the stain was bleeding after drying up and would leave oily residue when touched)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the best way forward to salvage the project?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10672" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-08-03T17:42:59.147" LastActivityDate="2021-08-03T17:42:59.147" Title="Water based poly finish over oil based stain is tacky" Tags="|finishing|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12932" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12933" CreationDate="2021-07-03T20:48:14.437" Score="0" ViewCount="409" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a midi lathe, a router and a few other odd's and sods with regards to machines.&#xA;I need to make some hardwood dowels and they should be 38mm in diameter ( for some wooden screws).&#xA;What way is the best way to make them?&#xA;I've tried building a rounder plane and failed, I can't seem to get it to cut...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5498" LastActivityDate="2021-07-04T07:05:26.500" Title="How to make LARGE wooden dowels?" Tags="|dowel|lathe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12932" CreationDate="2021-07-04T07:05:26.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried building a rounder plane and failed, I can't seem to get it to cut...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That could be troubleshot&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; but actually you don't need a rounding plane to make dowels. They can certainly help achieve a round result but it's quite possible to plane to round using any standard plane&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hand plane&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The process is really very simple: you start with square-section stock held in a planing cradle, pinched between bench dogs or poppets, or using the &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5564/leg-basics-for-stools-chairs-table/5568#5568&quot;&gt;clamp-in-a-vise trick&lt;/a&gt;, then plane the corners (arrises) off to make an octagon. Then you plane those corners off, making the wood 16-sided (hexadecagon), and so on. Although I've seen people go further, I would personally stop at 32-sided (TIL, a triacontadigon!) since this is &lt;a href=&quot;https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/4e/Regular_polygon_32.svg/1024px-Regular_polygon_32.svg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;so close to round&lt;/a&gt;. Subsequent sanding can yield virtually perfect cylinders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This methodology is very old and certainly predates the earliest woodworking guides. But these days we have electricity, and there are about a zillion videos and other guides online on how to make dowels in the workshop using power tools. I exaggerate, but not by much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if there is a lathe available one of the best methods&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; for making your own large dowels is on the router table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Router&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The commonest methodology is to again start with square-section stock, running this past a roundover bit to round over each arris in sequence. Do this four times and ta-da, you've created a cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After running a couple/three test pieces to dial in your setup the process is really fast, actually far faster than even an experienced turner could do it freehand on a lathe, and with much greater consistency. The downside is that obviously this method relies on there being a bit of a suitable diameter; and you're in luck, they do make 19mm roundover bits (with various shank diameters).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are numerous others but here's the YT vid that first came to mind,&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PsVv90DkzDU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A better way to make your own dowels&lt;/a&gt; from Stumpy Nubs. This is also one of the best since (as usual) he explains setup so clearly, and doesn't skip over safety considerations. Plus he covers how to sand both smaller and larger-diameter dowels with power assist, although because you'll be threading the resultant dowels I imagine you'll need to do absolutely minimal or no sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case you'd like to look at other methods as well there's a pretty good overview of many of them in this video from 3x3Custom - Tamar, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6tyygJh8c8s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Making Large Dowels WITHOUT a Lathe // Woodworking Jig // Dowel Maker&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; If the iron is held bevel-down, the first thing I can think of is there's insufficient relief on the cutting edge for the bedding angle. If there too little or no relief the bevel rubs on the wood and the plane won't cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Using a normal bench plane there's the benefit of being able to take advantage of the cap-iron effect, to prevent any bad tearout if the wood used has some unfortunate grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Safe, fast, and requires no jig to be built.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-07-04T07:05:26.500" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12929" CreationDate="2021-07-04T07:45:10.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the stain is allowed to cure for some time without being touched, will it bleed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many stains will rub off unless covered in something, and oil-based stains in particular tend to sit on top of the wood rather than being fully absorbed into the surface as with waterbased and alcohol stains (which are chiefly dyes, by comparison oil-based stains are primarily pigmented).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So as I mention in the Comments you really have no choice but to use an overcoat of some kind after staining, as I'm sure the stain instructions specify. In addition to the protection afforded this usually makes the wood look much better too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I applied the top coat was because the stain was bleeding after drying up and would leave oily residue when touched&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This indicates the stain hadn't finished drying&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with all things finish-related, when it comes to drying and curing it's necessary to wait as long as needed. When it's cool, and especially humid, oil-based finishes can take &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; longer than the instructions indicate to get dry enough to proceed&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately, should i just wipe on another coat of the oil based stain and leave it be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No definitely don't do that. All conventional stains (&amp;quot;gel stain&amp;quot; is an exception, because it's varnish not stain) require direct access to the wood surface to work as originally intended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the best way forward to salvage the project?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a chance that the waterbased finish will never dry properly. Even if the tackiness reduces to tolerable levels or goes away completely there's a chance the finish will remain softer than it should have been if it had dried at something like its normal rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is something you can confirm by contacting the manufacturer (often advisable if something goes amiss with a finishing product, although check that they don't have an FAQ that covers the problem already).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm correct then you have no choice but to remove the poly, and by this I mean strip it off, &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; sand it off. Sanding is the worst way to remove finish anyway, but it's nearly impossible to effectively sand soft and sticky finishes because they almost instantly clog the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way though, removal will undoubtedly damage your stain job I'm afraid. As it's difficult to impossible to do touch-up staining and get it to blend in it's usual to go back to bare wood (and here you will have to sand) so you can begin again, that is unless you're willing to try to hide the inconsistencies by going &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; darker, e.g. to a Dark Walnut, Tudor Oak or Espresso colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Oil-based stains can be slow to dry, it's one reason they're so user-friendly. They give lots of time to apply and futz about, but with the resultant downside that you have a relatively long wait after you're done until the next step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Many instructions give dry times based on ideal drying conditions, where the humidity is relatively low and the temperature perhaps 70°F (21°C) which I personally think is laughably unrealistic, even for the US. In the UK humidity is basically never low, and it's rarely above 20°C, ergo stains and clear finishes over here are made for those conditions.... so it's not at all difficult to formulate finishing products that work well in a wider range of conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-07-04T07:45:10.073" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10094" CreationDate="2021-07-05T02:17:29.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you go with a marching snare type of stick, you don’t even need to carve a bead head. Just a taper to a rounded end that starts between 1/2 to 2/3 from the bottom of the stick. The top of the stick will be about 1/2 the diameter of the butt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing a traditional concert style stick with a bead head will require a taper down to about 1/3 the diameter of the butt of the stick. Which then swell back up to 1/2 the diameter on the bead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10678" LastActivityDate="2021-07-05T02:17:29.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12938" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12939" CreationDate="2021-07-05T07:03:48.043" Score="2" ViewCount="181" Body="&lt;p&gt;I forget the proper name for them (please do remind me), but I have some bits that will make a hole in a piece of wood such that a screw head will be beneath the surface when tightened. And then you can put a tiny dowel in if you want to cover it up, though I generally don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mention that in regard to the fact it shortens the length of screw needed to fasten two pieces of wood together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that in mind, I began to wonder how do you determine the proper gauge and length of screw needed. I did some searches and found general articles about the types of screws... not really helpful because I already know I need wood screws; and articles about wood screws that I found were mostly just charts of what the various sizes of screws available are with little info on how to determine which sizes are optimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect there is information available as to the minimum gauge/length that will support the most weight (and at which point a larger screw would provide little to no benefit) based on the size of wood being fastened together (and perhaps even taking into consideration the hardness of the wood?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone know where to find such a guide? Perhaps this is more of an engineering question? I figure it made the most sense to ask here first though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8139" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-07-05T22:24:50.897" LastActivityDate="2021-07-06T14:58:36.107" Title="Woodworking screw guide?" Tags="|screws|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12938" CreationDate="2021-07-06T14:58:36.107" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The term you are looking for is a wood &amp;quot;plug.&amp;quot; You can either cut a piece of dowel, or if you want control of the grain direction, use a plug cutter to cut your own. A flush-cutting handsaw can be helpful, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding screws, you won't find a definitive guide, because the strength of a joint depends on what the joined object will be used for. You can make a 1/4&amp;quot; thick triangle without a center into carpenter's ruler for measuring or to be used as a shelf support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe people learn what size screws to use by starting out by learning from others (these days, like watching YouTube videos). With that foundation, over time you will discover when screws have proved insufficient or when it didn't seem to matter (which meant they were sufficient).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not necessarily a bad exercise to screw (and glue) some pieces of wood together and try to bend them apart. This will help give you a sense of when strength depends on the choice of screw (or the choice to use screws at all).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may discover that under stress the fastening method remains strong while the wood is delaminating/tearing apart. Keep in mind the direction of the forces at the joint, as well. Screws are incredibly strong against a force trying to pull wood apart along the axis of a screw as well as a force 90° off the axis (trying to &amp;quot;cut&amp;quot; the screw in half), but stress is rarely in a single linear direction. Predrilling a hole before putting the screw in can be a part of the learning process as well. You can find guides for how big the hole should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that ultimately a good decision can be made after one becomes able to consider the kinds of stresses that will be put on the joint (combined with how much the structural integrity of the wood will be lost by putting a hole in it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fortunately we can partially rely on the fact that the common gauges of screws available fall into a narrow range depending on how long the screw needs to be. You can trust that an intermediate choice is likely to be fine under normal circumstances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the stresses may be unusually high, consider that the design of the joint may be the limiting factor, not the screws. Keep in mind that one can make strong joints without using any fasteners or glue at all (see &lt;em&gt;Japanese joinery&lt;/em&gt; for an abundance of information). The best screw is not going to work if the joint is structurally too weak for the stresses it will be subject to. Ask yourself, what is the purpose of the screw?—when properly applied glue will be stronger than the wood itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10688" LastActivityDate="2021-07-06T14:58:36.107" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12941" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13327" CreationDate="2021-07-07T05:03:32.437" Score="4" ViewCount="238" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wrote the title generically, but the specific case I have is a bench top porter cable band saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was a bit disappointed with how flimsy and unlevel the base was, but I figure they expect you to secure it to a bench. I don't want to permanently secure it to anything though because I want to be able to move it around as necessary. I don't need it to be very &amp;quot;portable&amp;quot; per say (i.e. I'm not loading it up and taking it to work sites), but I just need to be able to scoot it a bit one way or another as necessary in my garage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also realize I could use a rolling cart, as I do for my table saw, but I have a place I want this to be on a table where I also have a miter saw and I just need to be able to move it back and forth a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried screwing it down into two pieces of thick plywood, but the plywood just warped so that it rocks back and forth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My next thought is that I have some tiles that look like stone (not sure what they're called? not important, but they are very flat and will likely crack before they warp). I could bore some holes in them and probably secure it to that. This would be a bit more trouble though as I'd need to do my research to make sure I am using the right kinds of bits and would need to figure out how to ensure I'm not leaving a bolt protruding under the bottom (or put some kind of rubber feet under them if I do). But...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bet there's a better way to do this? I'm probably being overly verbose, so to simplify the goal is for my band saw not to wobble while remaining reasonably mobile (don't need to lift it much so much as just scoot it back and forth).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8139" LastActivityDate="2021-12-02T18:55:05.693" Title="How to secure bench top equipment to a mobile surface" Tags="|power-tools|workbench|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12943" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-08T06:49:39.267" Score="1" ViewCount="292" Body="&lt;p&gt;My husband is making my daughter an adjustable pikler climbing frame and we are trying to work out the joins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the best way would be to do 8-dowel joins then with a bolt and nut through the middle but we don't know how to go about doing it. I find it hard to explain so I've included a picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would really appreciate any help or suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bnrRB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bnrRB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bnrRB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xzo8m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xzo8m.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10708" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-07-08T16:33:24.237" LastActivityDate="2021-07-09T13:40:51.160" Title="Advice for drilling dowel holes in a circle for an adjustable joint" Tags="|drilling|dowel|drill-bits|jig|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12944" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-08T09:59:14.553" Score="0" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bought a Oak Wooden floor planks unfinished. I have filled all the knots with clear resin and sanded it back for a lovely finish. I now need to protect the planks from drying out and cracking, from wet feet, UV, dirt and stains. All the general wear and tear a floor takes. What ever I finish it with, has to work with the resin. As there will be traces around the knots. I don't want to the finish to change the colour of the wood. As I love it as it is. I am considering Tung oil and white spirit? or a wax maybe. I don't mind the floor taking on dents and scratches, as its a 200 year old house. I think keeping the floor looking new like new would make it look to modern for the property, and a worn patina would complete the house and be more practical. I also want it to be easy to maintain and not have to sand it back in 5 years to reapply. Any advice would be really welcomed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10710" LastActivityDate="2021-11-29T19:40:49.707" Title="How to finish untreated European Oak wooden floors" Tags="|finishing|tung-oil|boiled-linseed-oil|wax|flooring|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12943" CreationDate="2021-07-08T10:49:00.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That type of constructions lends itself to a CNC router, in order to get the precision required, but a DIY approach isn't completely impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider to create a graphic image using a vector editor such as Inkscape (free, multi-platform) or Illustrator or CorelDraw (both pay) to represent the holes of the join. Ensure that your graphic also includes a dot or cross-hair for each hole (see below). Cut out the printed version and attach to the work piece with suitable adhesive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood is an organic material and it's going to be challenging to ensure the hole placement. The drill bit will wander from the desired location. Usually, one prepares for drilling metal by using a center punch, and rarely does so for drilling wood, but for this project, it would be a good idea to very carefully center punch the appropriate locations from the template.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a small diameter drill (1/8&amp;quot; or 3 mm) on the punched locations. This will serve as the guide for the subsequent drilling process. After your pilot holes are complete, use the final drill size to match your dowel pins. For best results, clamp the work piece to a scrap to prevent the drill bit from splintering on the exit. Using a forstner bit or a spade bit rather than a twist drill will reduce splintering as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's unlikely that you'll have perfect results if the drilling is done using a hand drill. A drill press will provide the best chance to keep the holes parallel to each other and perpendicular to the face of the work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a makerspace nearby, they may have a CNC router or a laser cutter/engraver. I can envision using the laser cutter software to create the circular array, also called a polar array to create the shapes. Using high power would create the centering holes as well as the perimeter lines, reducing splintering and enabling precise drilling. Most hobby grade laser cutters will not cut through such thick material, but that's not required to accomplish the task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2021-07-08T10:49:00.627" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12943" CreationDate="2021-07-08T13:30:46.090" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I had to do this and didn't have cnc access, I'd make a drilling template that indexed on the previous hole, so even if it was slightly inaccurate, it would be consistent. I'll try and sketch a 3d version later today, but it's a chunk of plywood with an index pin, a drilling hole, and a center hole. Critical aspects: the index pin (dowel) has to come out both sides so you can mirror image the drilling, dead perpendicular is important for the index hole, the drilling guide hole, and the center hole, so take exceptional care with these. When drilling the rest of the holes, perpendicular is also important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a chance that there's a simpler solution to the problem, but it's early in the morning and I might not have had enough coffee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt; to say that all my attempts at drawing this were utterly terrible. That said, @Graphus has a very good point about multiple drillings causing the template to get sloppy. Perhaps what I called the 'drilling hole' above should just be a 1/8&amp;quot; 'marking hole', where you thump it with a nail to establish the center of the drilling. Remove the guide; drill with the dowel sized bit, spin and repeat. And I should have been explicit earlier; the distance from the center to the index pin and the marking hole has to be absolutely exact, or the first time you try to spin the index, you'll be off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit again&lt;/strong&gt;  don't forget to make left and right sides match exactly. The easiest way I can imagine is to do both the arms of one side, then use those to mark (or even drill) the corresponding other side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastEditorUserId="503" LastEditDate="2021-07-09T13:40:51.160" LastActivityDate="2021-07-09T13:40:51.160" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12949" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12950" CreationDate="2021-07-10T05:50:11.100" Score="1" ViewCount="464" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am unable to sharpen a card scraper despite trying many times. I am using a Crown card scraper and burnisher. Most times I start by filing the edges, followed by whetstone, and then on to the burnishing part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried both with a hard as well as light pressure on the steel. Saw many YouTube videos, but don't have anyone in person to guide me. I just cannot manage to get a burr.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone help me understand what I am doing wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10717" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-07-10T19:39:21.333" LastActivityDate="2021-07-10T19:39:21.333" Title="Unable to sharpen cabinet/card scraper" Tags="|sharpening|cabinet-scraper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12949" CreationDate="2021-07-10T19:37:38.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without seeing or handling a scraper that has gone through a sharpening process and isn't working it is hard to diagnose what's gone wrong, but there are some common problems that you might be experiencing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the user is unable to create any burr at all&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; I believe the most common issue (and the one I think most likely to be the cause here) is the prior preparation of the edge hasn't achieved 90° corners for the hook to be drawn from&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So first thing you should do is make sure you are creating square edges on your scraper to begin with. Then the creation of a burr you can work with&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; is almost guaranteed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are various tricks to ensure you'll get the square edges you're after, and most rely on some kind of block of wood to help hold the card upright. Instead of trying to describe this further in words I'll just link to two videos I think give good clear (and, importantly, &lt;em&gt;brief&lt;/em&gt;) demonstrations of how to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is an older video from StumpyNubs, and as usual for him he explains what he's doing and why very well. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MmNr0aj89t0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;5 steps for easy woodworking card/cabinet scraper sharpening&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second is one of a couple of vids on scraper sharpening on Fine Woodworking's YT channel. This one, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qSJ-FsQQz8k&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Sharpen a Card Scraper&lt;/a&gt;, has Mike Pekovich demonstrating a nice simple method with one neat trick (courtesy of Brian Boggs) that is not often seen elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No vice&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Now both of these do show a vice being used, but you can easily work around this until you have a vice as long as you have some decent clamps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you clamp a piece of wood with a known square edge to your bench/work surface and then clamp the card scraper to that you have in effect created the same workholding that a vice provides. It may be in a slightly clunky and slower way, but it works :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; None can be seen or felt, and the scraper won't produce ANY shavings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; If instead of a sharp 90 you have a sight radius along your edges when you do the burnishing it just moves metal into the space above the curved edge and it either doesn't create a hook/burr at all, or it's very small and isn't projecting far enough to engage with the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Note that as I mention in the old Answer I linked to in the Comments, there isn't just one size and style of burr that will work. All different methods that successfully create some sort of burr are being used by someone, just for different levels of work and/or in slightly different ways. Some users want a very noticeable, very aggressive burr because it suits what they're doing, others need a very tiny burr that produces the most wispy shavings which show that only the tiniest amount of wood is being removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-07-10T19:37:38.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12951" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12952" CreationDate="2021-07-11T06:43:23.703" Score="4" ViewCount="4722" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pictured below is my second attempt at this. The first time I used a table saw to cut the slots, and this time I used a band saw. I liked using the bandsaw for this a lot better, but I don't know how to properly measure my cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's was my process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cut two 14&amp;quot; pieces of 2x4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use my miter saw to angle the ends to 45 degrees. After applying a corner clamp, it became clear that it wasn't a perfect 45 degrees, but it was pretty close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I had the 9&amp;quot; (on the long side) cross brace from my previous attempt, and I had a right angle triangle block that was conveniently the perfect size to help me align it such that it would go into the other 2x4's about half way. Using the right angle triangle block, I positioned the cross brace by hand such that it was going into both the other 2x4's equally and then traced around it in pencil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sadly, my new bandsaw saw was missing the miter slide (I've emailed the manufacturer and hope to receive it soon), so I had to make the cuts freehand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, the bubble on the level is all the way to the right. I'm not necessarily looking for perfection, but I would like to at least get the bubble in the center section on the level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wish I still had enough math skills to draw this on paper and determine where my cuts should be, but sadly I don't so that's why I just tried to position pieces and trace around them. And to be honest, the fact I even made it all fit together is encouraging to me. But there are two things I need to improve on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to make more accurate measurements&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to accurately cut said measurements&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully when I get my miter slide (or whatever it's called) that will help with 2). But I'm open to any suggestions. I think one issue is that I have trouble holding the pieces straight when cutting because 2x4's are curved around the edges. I do have a planer, so perhaps if I used it (or even my table saw) to make the wood more square this would be less of a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On 1), I know there are often many ways to accomplish the same thing. So my hope is that someone can suggest a simpler method, but if the best path is simply to improve my math skills, then it is what it is and I will accept that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@Graphus, thank you in advance :). And thanks to everyone who answers helping me in my journey to be a real woodworker!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes, I know what some of you are thinking, &amp;quot;that guy would make a fantastic hand model&amp;quot;. I just don't have the time right now though, so please no solicitations!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/asIzz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/asIzz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shelf Brace&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8139" LastActivityDate="2021-07-11T14:36:54.383" Title="How to build shelf brace from 2x4's (as pictured)" Tags="|measurement|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12951" CreationDate="2021-07-11T14:36:54.383" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a few things going on here; I don't claim this is a full answer, but simply a bit of the puzzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're doing a lot of math here, which isn't in and of itself a bad thing, but it's unnecessary. Instead of painstakingly calculating where the cross brace goes, just build the &amp;quot;L&amp;quot;, lay a hunk of wood across it at 45 degrees, mark the cuts, then go for it. Once you've cut the mortise, you can sneak up on the length of the brace and get a perfect fit. You'll probably even have a chance to tweak the angle to 45.5 degrees if the cutting didn't go exactly as planned. (Note that I didn't suggest cutting the bracket first and trying to make the mortise work. Mortise first is generally good advice.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YtcES.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YtcES.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus, you're making joints that are more complicated than needed. The miter at the corner of the &amp;quot;L&amp;quot; is probably weaker than a simple butt joint with a couple of nice long screws sunk downward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mortise is also more complicated than needed. I'd build it like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/orFen.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/orFen.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether you're doing the roughing of the mortise with a circular saw, table saw, or bandsaw, it's easier to finish the edges with a chisel when it's either an easy 45 or a straight 90. Finishing an undercut 45 with a chisel is a curse, and forces your bracket to be more perfect than perfect. In pergola scale joinery, the straight 90 is almost certainly stronger (because your surfaces mate better), though it wouldn't matter in this application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other minor comments: adjust your miter saw, at least to the point where 90 degrees is absolutely positively dead square. 45 will probably be pretty darn good after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your life will be better during assembly if you put the bracket on after you've mounted the &amp;quot;L&amp;quot; on the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2021-07-11T14:36:54.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12953" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12954" CreationDate="2021-07-15T21:07:32.787" Score="2" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a Flottjett band saw, it looks like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.netbid.com/Auktionen/Detail-Ueberblick/20319206-Flottjet-Bands%C3%A4ge/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has a nice solid table with channels. They are 16mm wide and about 5mm deep, and now I am looking for parts like a miter gauge, or at least a rip fence or both (I hope these are the correct terms for what I mean). The problem is, most parts are either for 19mm wide channels, or need deeper ones like 16mmx8mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is 16mmx5mm such a unusual dimension for that? I think some kind of guide is needed to fully utilize the saw, and I am a bit lost at where to get it, preferably online (I live in Germany). I also don't want to spend a fortune, although I think about 50€ might be needed. Or would it be feasible to get a cheap miter gauge from Amazon or eBay and replace the gliding steel part with a 16mm one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10733" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-07-16T08:45:41.687" LastActivityDate="2021-07-16T11:33:11.173" Title="Flottjetb bandsaw attachments" Tags="|band-saw|fence|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12953" CreationDate="2021-07-16T08:44:08.417" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is 16mmx5mm such a unusual dimension for that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe so, yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you happen across any originals I think you'll struggle to find any accessories for this saw, but the good news is that you can easily make these and any other aids for your bandsaw that you might need. There's quite a tradition of this as you'll see the more you view and read about bandsaws (similar to how crosscut sleds for table saws are almost always user-made).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I strongly recommend that topping that list of things to make for your bandsaw should be a couple of push sticks. Literally the first things you should make once you have your saw up and running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately there's the usual maker's dilemma: you could do with the tool to make the tool. Without a push stick to saw out the &lt;a href=&quot;https://d2culxnxbccemt.cloudfront.net/craft/content/uploads/a/general/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/push-stick-collection-kt1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;typical shapes of user-made push sticks&lt;/a&gt; your fingers are closer to the moving saw blade than you should really be comfortable with, however there's a simple solution — you can use a pencil with an eraser on its end as a rudimentary push stick:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BdExP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BdExP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pencil eraser push sticks&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or would it be feasible to get a cheap miter gauge from Amazon or eBay and replace the gliding steel part with a 16mm one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; while direct shopping queries are off-topic for this SE I can suggest that you look on AliExpress to more directly buy the type of products — and possibly the &lt;em&gt;exact same products&lt;/em&gt; — you'll find for sale on both Amazon and eBay, sometimes at substantially lower prices and often with free shipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So anyway, yes. If you hadn't asked this was one of the solutions I would have suggested anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However while you can use a mitre gauge on a bandsaw, from what I've seen their use is far less common than it would be on either a table saw or a router table, which are more frequently called upon to do accurate finishing cuts and milling operations at various angles. By comparison squaring cuts are far more likely to be what you'll want to do on your bandsaw (after resawing and other ripping operations, and curve-cutting of course, which are the bread and butter of bandsaws).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Replacement runner material&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;For the replacement runners you can use a wood, high-density plastic (cutoffs from white cutting boards can work well), or from solid aluminium if you can find it in the right dimensions. But honestly it's not necessary to use metal, since wooden runners can last for many years even in a busy workshop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oak, maple, hickory, beech, ash, chestnut and hornbeam would all be suitable. Bamboo would also be excellent, even if it's not technically wood :-) Although you might be best favouring solid wood both plywood and MDF can work and are widely used for this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fence&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Since you mentioned a fence, as I say in the Comments these are independent of the slots for adjustability both for distance from blade as well as angle (to account for drift, if necessary).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a great many DIY fence designs out there and most woodworking magazines have featured at least a couple over the last few decades, although designs for them go back far longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Such fences can be very basic:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HhtDr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HhtDr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;PM bandsaw fence&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Popular Mechanics&lt;/strong&gt;, July 1967&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or elaborate and fully featured:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pqwpr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pqwpr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;AW bandsaw fence&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Originally appeared in &lt;strong&gt;American Woodworker&lt;/strong&gt;, November 2005, now available to view on the Popular Woodworking site&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-07-16T11:33:11.173" LastActivityDate="2021-07-16T11:33:11.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12955" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-17T04:50:32.627" Score="0" ViewCount="372" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone identify the tools in the picture below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WcIux.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WcIux.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2021-07-18T01:20:27.987" Title="Antique tool identification" Tags="|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2021-07-22T00:42:29.133" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12955" CreationDate="2021-07-17T14:48:50.937" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like stonemason tools. The toothed chisels in the left hand side are common texturing masonry chisels, and the mushroomed handles plus hammer imply these are struck with a lot of force multiple times. Woodworking chisel handles rarely show mushrooming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure about the two pliers-like tools, the small toothed wheels or the thin goosenecked tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2021-07-17T14:48:50.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12955" CreationDate="2021-07-18T01:20:27.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are leather carving tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had just assumed they were some kind of woodworking tools because they were being auctioned and the catalog described them as woodworking tools, which was incorrect. Sorry for the confusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2021-07-18T01:20:27.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12959" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-18T18:34:51.227" Score="1" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;Red-colored woods such as padauk, bloodwood, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want a red-colored wood for a future project, but I do not want to contribute to unsustainable deforestation or exploitation of the local community.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is the most reliably ethically sourced one? If it varies widely, what kind of information should I ask for from my local supplier?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the answer is &amp;quot;none,&amp;quot; I can accept that and will likely just use good ol' walnut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10742" LastActivityDate="2021-07-20T02:07:24.923" Title="Most ethical red-colored wood to purchase?" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12959" CreationDate="2021-07-19T01:35:39.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several wood certification and sustainable forestry programs that you can research. But only a small amount of the world's forests are protected by such programs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will have to research the relevant programs and find a supplier who claims they can source one of types of lumber you are interested in in compliance with one or more of these programs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is, if ethically sourcing lumber is important to you, you will have to start by finding suppliers in your area that claim compliance with one or more of these programs and see which one of those species is more likely to be available to you in the amounts you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because it isn't the species that makes it &amp;quot;ethical&amp;quot;. It is the process by which global markets turn forests into wood products we can buy that makes the lumber &amp;quot;ethical&amp;quot; as defined by the programs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Links discussing the details of such things will be dead in an internet minute. But as of this writing these are some common programs that those of us buying smaller amounts of lumber will likely run into (at least for the kinds of lumber I think you are interested in):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Forest Stewardship Council&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sustainable Forestry Initiative&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The US and Canada have domestic programs for the typical wood products harvested in North America.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, you are in a tough place if you do not want to buy in the 1000s of board-feet. Many of these programs have harvest schedules based on orders, where specific trees are harvested and sold, probably as green flitches, on demand. You might find a lumberyard with some off-cuts or partial orders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be better to start a relationship with a local yard that can participate in an ethically sourced program, and have them keep an eye out for suitable lumber in the amounts you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-07-20T02:07:24.923" LastActivityDate="2021-07-20T02:07:24.923" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1963" CreationDate="2021-07-19T21:01:53.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding another answer to my own question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently, Lee Valley Tools tackled this question and did an analysis of all the manual-sharpening abrasives they carry -- from sandpaper to stones to polishes -- reconciling the differences between grit-size systems, manufacturer's labels, materials and cutting patterns, with some comments on cost and maintenance of the systems. They gathered this all into a master chart (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/tools/grit-charts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/tools/grit-charts&lt;/a&gt;) with advice on how to use the data to create a reasonable sharpening sequence out of whatever you want to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/tools/sharpening-by-hand&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/tools/sharpening-by-hand&lt;/a&gt; is their catalog incorporating this research; hardcopy of that is also available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also posted &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/discover/sharpen-net&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/discover/sharpen-net&lt;/a&gt;, a set of pages that attempt to demystify the actual sharpening process and help novices start getting good results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Admittedly, they &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; have an interest in selling tools. Some old timers will tell you that a sharpening jig is a crutch, for example, and that you should just learn to feel for the right angle. I almost agree with that -- sharpening by touch worked fine for hundreds of years, after all -- but I feel no shame in using &amp;quot;training wheels&amp;quot; until I feel ready to try balancing without them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2021-07-19T21:01:53.137" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12963" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-20T12:44:27.053" Score="3" ViewCount="216" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in the process of building a second floor to our container home which includes the mindless task of screwing thousands of screws into sheets of OSB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I have only used drill holsters or pouches that attach to your belt or the ones that come with a belt like contraption.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WC0G3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WC0G3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Drill Holster&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find them both very inconvenient in terms of carrying and picking up the screwdriver quickly and they keep pulling on my pants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would love to have something similar to a camera strap like these ones:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gahf5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gahf5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Professional Quick Action Camera Shoulder Strap with Quick Release Clip&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;​​&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That allow me to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;quickly switch between adjusting the OSB board and screwing in the screws&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lift the screwdriver above my head without it being constrained by the contraption&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;doesn’t restrain my movement too much and doesn’t dangle around uncontrollably&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cherry on top if it has something to attach one or more bags for the screws&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if such a thing exists and what it's called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10750" LastEditorUserId="10750" LastEditDate="2021-07-27T07:27:40.953" LastActivityDate="2021-07-27T07:27:40.953" Title="Is there a drill holster that is not attached to a belt?" Tags="|drill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2021-07-22T00:45:06.267" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12964" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-20T13:52:31.247" Score="0" ViewCount="2210" Body="&lt;p&gt;I poured an epoxy river cast and it took off on me even when in a cool environment and with fans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at fixes for this without chipping everything away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IjpU1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2yyuw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10273" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-07-20T19:48:45.383" LastActivityDate="2021-07-20T23:50:38.870" Title="What can be done to repair epoxy resin cast that cracked while curing?" Tags="|epoxy|live-edge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12965" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-20T16:50:04.193" Score="0" ViewCount="147" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to have two tables at the same height over a column in this case to build a bed frame, but I guess this would apply to many other uses:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yuZVW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yuZVW.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have to make some cut on the tables to screw them into the column, and I was wondering what is the best way to do this in order to maximize the strength of the structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was my first idea:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R1os9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R1os9.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I don't know if there is a more clever way of doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some additional information:&#xA;The columns are 15x15x300cm&#xA;The boards I'm not sure yet, but I think something like 200x15x2,4cm or if I can find something thicker maybe 3 or 4cm.&#xA;I'm not really sure what kind of wood would it be, but probably pine.&#xA;This is just going to be a base for a tatami like this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DcqMP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DcqMP.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10753" LastEditorUserId="10753" LastEditDate="2021-07-20T17:07:14.590" LastActivityDate="2021-07-20T17:34:34.283" Title="What is the best way of screwing two boards at the same height and 90 degrees between them over a column?" Tags="|design|cutting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12965" CreationDate="2021-07-20T17:19:06.227" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you might need to take a step back and revisit your design. My opinion is that the overall design is flawed even before you consider the joinery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your first step is to simulate what this bed might be like once you build it. Take an example of the rails (the pine boards) you intend to use and place it across two blocks, roughly the largest distance you expect to span.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, sit on the board and bounce up and down a little. I suspect you are going to get a lot of deflection, and maybe even some ominous splitting noises. Unless you use many legs so the spans are very short this is going to be a problem with any design using planks as load-bearing rails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are ways around this by using the wood how it is strongest (on edge, like a floor joist) and combining that with another piece to make an L-shaped rail. Obviously, there are many other ways to do this, like using metal, or putting the rails on a proper carcase (or frame).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend looking at more bed designs and seeing what I mean. Even store-bought flat-pack furniture can give you lots of ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question: if you fasten ordinary pine on edge like this, with the fasteners through the end grain at the ends, it'll split and tear out of the fasteners in a season or two. Ignoring the problems with the design, a half-lap across the feet to tie the structure together, along with fasteners that allow for grain movement might be better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, I wouldn't use fasteners through the rails/boards at all. I'd use the fasteners that are used to hold table-tops to the apron or legs, which are designed to allow the table-top to move with seasonal changes. Fasteners through pine like you show would also weaken the rails, and encourage any potential shakes (splits inside the board) to emerge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-07-20T17:34:34.283" LastActivityDate="2021-07-20T17:34:34.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12963" CreationDate="2021-07-20T17:30:54.173" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Makita drills (and I'm sure others do as well) come with an optional hanger so you can safely hang it upside-down when you are up on a ladder. It is intended to slip into a belt (not the fancy holster you show) but it'll go anywhere that hook can conveniently fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I was in the trades those up on the ladders would rig up a receiver for that hook on the ladder itself. If you can find a way to hang such an awkward mass safely using a home-brew harness you can try that. I've never seen any after-market harness -- we'd just wear a minimal pouch-and-belt and hook the drill into that or hang it from the ladder. Some guys even had a lanyard attached to it so they didn't drop their precious tool (or brain their less-precious co-workers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2021-07-20T17:30:54.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12964" CreationDate="2021-07-20T23:50:38.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I'm sure you'll have picked up from elsewhere, you can't repair this. I will bet you'll find at least someone who's tried to recover from something similar to this by pouring in more epoxy but clearly (pardon the pun) the best idea here is starting again. Even assuming you patched the cracks and somehow they turned out well enough to be acceptable you have obvious fracture planes in a few places at the wood/epoxy juncture, and there's no coming back from those. In addition to how visible those fractures are, they may actually indicate that there's no bond to the wood at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Next time&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Just in case it is an idea that you considered, it's &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; viable to refrigerate one or both of the components before mixing. Cold-weather recommendations for epoxies almost always call for the liquids to be pre-warmed before mixing, both to help with accurate measurement and also to ensure proper curing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to continue to use what you have it's worth investigating if there's a slower hardener available as that's one of the classic ways to control temperature rise in resin mixtures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Numerous other tips to be found at the following links:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.epoxyworks.com/index.php/controlling-exotherm/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Controlling Exotherm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.systemthree.com/blogs/epoxy-files/epoxy-exothermic-reaction&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Temperature: The Ultimate Variable&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://masepoxies.com/why-is-my-epoxy-resin-hot-and-smoking&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Why is my epoxy resin hot and smoking?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in a cool environment &lt;strong&gt;and with fans&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possibly worth pointing out that fans don't cool air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They make &lt;em&gt;us&lt;/em&gt; feel cooler because of evaporation (that's what sweat is for), but air itself is a poor conductor — it doesn't carry heat away efficiently — and there's zero evaporative cooling with epoxy since there's no water in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-07-20T23:50:38.870" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12970" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-21T14:42:44.380" Score="0" ViewCount="178" Body="&lt;p&gt;Found in an abandoned shed in Fresno, California, 1975.  Still haven't found anyone who can ID it.  I think it is some kind of bench mounted tool but the purpose is unknown.  Anyone have a clue?  Thanks. More photos here:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://pbase.com/gb_photo/mystery_tool&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://pbase.com/gb_photo/mystery_tool&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XdtG7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XdtG7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10758" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-07-21T15:15:34.923" LastActivityDate="2021-07-21T17:01:26.460" Title="Mystery tool ID" Tags="|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12970" CreationDate="2021-07-21T17:01:26.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Found in an abandoned shed in Fresno, California, 1975.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well that's helpful so you know it's at least that old, but certain details point to it being &lt;em&gt;old&lt;/em&gt;, possibly mid-19th century.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this was installed on a woodworking bench it appears to be a type of &lt;em&gt;bench stop&lt;/em&gt;. Regular toothed bench stops are to hold one end of a board in place as it's worked on, particularly when hand-planing. Given how small standard bench stops are&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; and how large and robust this one is it suggests possible industrial use, needing to resist far greater forces than would be usual on a hand-tool bench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wingnut and bolt running in that short slot obviously allows it to adjust for height, as most bench stops do, to accommodate workpieces of various thicknesses. The teeth bite into the end of the workpiece and provides hold&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The four holes in the 'baseplate' section would be to attach this to one side of a bench leg, with either bolts or lag screws. Given the likely age of this the bolts/screws that originally attached this would have had square heads!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; They generally look something like the following, although &lt;em&gt;many&lt;/em&gt; different designs have been offered over the century+ they've been commercially available:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7SI7m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7SI7m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Modern bench stop&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;NOS modern bench stops (most current ones follow this basic design, or appear to be identical).&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zS0UM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zS0UM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Vintage bench stops&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Vintage bench stops.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Yes this does mar the end grain, but board ends are virtually never seen in traditional furniture or finished carpentry, so the divots would generally be hidden inside joinery, if they remain. But later processes may remove that portion of the board anyway (sawing and/or shooting to final length).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-07-21T17:01:26.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3534" CreationDate="2021-07-24T10:56:54.063" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're CNC milling a particle board the dust would be flying everywhere,  virtually everything that comes off the board is going to be aeroborne particles!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe particle board in general, no matter what its made of, is a bad thing, related to asbestos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It comes with a lot of engineering and chemical material science convenience, it makes it into the industry because its so easy to make,  even though it has inherent problems especially with it being very water conductive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Particle board is basicaly a sponge waiting for the moisture to build up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're wearing a dust mask, it probably works quite well because its air-born solids, and that's what they are designed for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10770" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2021-07-26T12:24:05.027" LastActivityDate="2021-07-26T12:24:05.027" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12974" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-25T15:30:12.473" Score="0" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m making a table out of two thick walnut slabs.&#xA;My question is in regard to the order of sanding and oiling.&#xA;I’m working on the underside now and put a coat of Tung oil on, thinking it’s good to put this down before attaching the legs.&#xA;When doing the top of the table, do I oil, sand repeatedly working my up to a fine course, then oil again? How many coats before/after sanding? I believe I want about 5 or so coats of tung oil.&#xA;I’m sure it’s obvious that this is my first technical (to me) wood project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks a bunch,&#xA;Jay&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10775" LastActivityDate="2021-07-25T15:30:12.473" Title="Sanding &amp; Oiling walnut slab table" Tags="|sanding|table-making|tung-oil|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12975" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-25T20:03:13.073" Score="1" ViewCount="1515" Body="&lt;p&gt;The project I'm working on is creating a (roughly) 4'x4' table topper that breaks down into two 4'x2' pieces. This topper will be placed on top of my 3'x3' dining table for things like board game nights. A 4'x4' table is too big for day to day purposes in my small apartment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently, I have two pieces of 2'x4'x5/8&amp;quot; particle board for this purpose. A layer of grip mat will go between the topper and the table to protect the table and keep the topper from sliding. A play mat will be placed on top of the topper. As is, it's functional by simply placing the two pieces of particle board side by side on the table. My main concern is someone leaning on the edge of one and flipping it up. So I'd like to come up with an inexpensive option for locking them together on the underside when in use. Preferably without wearing out the particle board (like constantly installing/removing screws).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now the best option I've come up with is to counter sink some bolts in the top and try to get them lined up with holes in metal strips. The metal strip can then be used on the bottom and held in place with some nuts. I've also considered trying piano hinges to make it a folding topper. Before committing to anything, are there any better alternatives people can think of that only requires basic tools?&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o3rto.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o3rto.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10776" LastActivityDate="2021-07-26T12:04:39.387" Title="Mechanism for locking together two pieces of plywood for modular table topper" Tags="|tabletop|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12975" CreationDate="2021-07-25T21:07:24.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may discover that cam lock furniture hardware will do as you require. &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0721JZKPC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt; is one of many sources for this type of hardware. The linked item requires a 13 mm hole on one part of the assembly and a 6 mm hole on the other. Those sizes in drill bits are not particularly expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fp9Qn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fp9Qn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cam Lock Hardware&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hole has to be 0.4&amp;quot; deep which isn't excessive, considering you have 0.625&amp;quot; thick wood, but you'd want to be precise with your drilling. Use a hand drill jig to keep the bit perpendicular to the surface and a similar jig to limit the depth. A spade bit may tear out and also cut through, while a Forstner bit is going to be less problematic, but slightly more expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, the advantage of this hardware is the ease of disassembly. A quarter turn of the locking drum and the joint is free. Some risk is involved in the protruding pins being broken off, but they extend, in this example, only slightly more than 3/4&amp;quot; of an inch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Amazon link provides 30 pieces for US$8.99, which leaves plenty to use on a protective strip if you so desire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Images courtesy of linked site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2021-07-25T21:07:24.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12975" CreationDate="2021-07-26T12:04:39.387" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My initial thought was a couple of regular leaf hinges, but your piano hinge idea would work as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want this to lay flat on the table and not have anything that could damage the table underneath. To that end, you'd want to recess the hinge into the surface of the topper so that it sits flush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which you would choose would depend on what tools you have or have access to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have to do this with only hand tools, cutting 2 or 3 recesses for individual hinges would be much easier than cutting one looong recess for the piano hinge. On the other hand, a table saw will make simple, quick work of cutting one long, shallow rabbet along the mating edges of the topper pieces in which the piano hinge would sit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2021-07-26T12:04:39.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11424" CreationDate="2021-07-26T13:46:47.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are a few ideas that might be helpful regarding your proposed solution from my experience with OSB/wood floors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2 id=&quot;osb-vs-plywood&quot;&gt;OSB vs plywood&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made good experiences using OSB instead of plywood as it is made from stronger wood and will be more durable. For flooring and subflooring I usually use the type of OSB that comes with tongue and groove.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0VwQg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0VwQg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no need to glue those in place and they can expand and contract to accommodate changes in size due to temperature. Just make sure to not squish them together with too much force, especially if it’s relatively cold when you install them, otherwise they might bulge during the warmer month.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2 id=&quot;painting-the-floor&quot;&gt;Painting the floor&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I paint the OSB sheets from both sides (one coat for the underside and two coats for the visible side). One thin coat of paint on the underside helps to prevent moisture getting in from underneath and  helps to prevent the OSB sheets from bulging up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how much effort you want to put into your floors you can get them to a very smooth and shiny finish by using wood filler and lots of sanding before you apply the paint on the visible side (after you installed them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2 id=&quot;levelling-the-floor&quot;&gt;Levelling the floor&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have an uneven surface underneath I can recommend using a dry levelling compound (filler substrate), this is a fast and easy method that is relatively cheap (at least the stuff you get here in Germany) and looks similar to this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UFQCg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UFQCg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Some of these levelling compounds might help with insulation as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2 id=&quot;caulking-the-edges&quot;&gt;Caulking the edges&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never caulked the edges of my OSB floors, but I don’t think that it will cause problems down the road, especially since you can relatively easily remove it if you use silicone. I personally would not use clear silicone as it is the most prone to discolouration (yellowing) and rather go with something closer to the color of the OSB or paint. Alternatively you could also use a baseboard to prevent bug access (but I guess this won't help much with insulation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10750" LastActivityDate="2021-07-26T13:46:47.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12913" CreationDate="2021-07-27T12:03:40.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;+1 to the comments and the suggestion to use nails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you would like to avoid nails and screws at all costs you could create an entire frame from 2x4's that would fit tight underneath you ceiling. You could attach your frame to the wall(s) and ceiling and install the glass panes inside your frame.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uZAsV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uZAsV.png&quot; alt=&quot;simple drawing of the proposed solution&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure if this is feasible for your particular use case as I don't know how large/heavy your glass wall panes are and how they will be connected to the floor/walls/ceiling exactly, but maybe this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe it's also worth noting that you probably will get discolouration on your floor underneath your 2x4 no matter what method you will chose. Especially newly installed floors are most prone to darken/lighten (depending on the original colour) in the places that are exposed to sunlight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10750" LastActivityDate="2021-07-27T12:03:40.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12913" CreationDate="2021-07-27T15:05:49.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My advice would be to eschew contact with the floor at all, except maybe with a frame covered in thin cork or felt (or silicone pads, if you want them to stick a bit instead of slide). This bottom part of the frame rests on the floor, and you hang the frame with suitable fasteners to suitable structural members in the ceiling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ceilings are much easier to patch than floors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want the ceiling fasteners to take &lt;em&gt;most&lt;/em&gt; of the weight, and allow for a little movement of the entire frame (though if you do this right, the arc allowed at the bottom end will be minimal). But the point is that this is not a load-bearing surface, other than supporting its own mass. It is purely decorative. If you want a structurally sound &amp;quot;wall&amp;quot; it has to be fully fastened to three sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Securely fastened on the wall and ceiling, with sticky silicon non-marring pads on the bottom, should suffice for a decorative room divider. Which is what this is, really.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It needs to be said that making hard-to-patch holes in either the floor or the ceiling is an excellent way to not get your damage deposit back once the lease is over. If you are careful with the wall and ceiling such that regular plaster repairs work (this depends on the ceiling, of course) you should be ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of this as hanging a really big painting. You shouldn't hang anything else on a painting. But it should hang with sufficient fasteners making holes that can be patched. Sometimes paint is a patch!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that we haven't discussed the frame itself. This will have to be sized and constructed to accept the mass of whatever it is holding. So you may have to build a more robust &amp;quot;cantilevered&amp;quot; header than you think. The fact that it is supported at the far corner does help, of course. But you don't want this thing getting hit and twisting off the floor, and then torquing the ceiling joints such that it comes down spectacularly around someone's ears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-07-27T15:16:29.647" LastActivityDate="2021-07-27T15:16:29.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11369" CreationDate="2021-07-27T22:20:37.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me if this is a oil sharpening stone or water sharpening stone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that we have a photo to go on it's at least possible to say this was definitely an oil stone in its day, &lt;em&gt;because of the case&lt;/em&gt;. Honing-stone boxes don't come to look like that unless they've been used around oil for a long, long time. And also waterstones aren't stored like this anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;What is it?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As covered in a previous Q&amp;amp;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4142/how-can-i-identify-sharpening-stones&quot;&gt;How can I identify sharpening stones?&lt;/a&gt;? currently nobody can tell. It's literally impossible to even guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the stone appears to be black or dark grey (and there are stones in this colour range&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;) it could be entirely surface filth! As you'll see if you look around online many old stones are found in a very dark state, close to black in some cases, but after cleaning their native colour is found to be something completely different (and often much much lighter, as in the example in the link above).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The distinction 'waterstone' v 'oilstone' can be largely arbitrary. What this means is that for a large number of stones you can feel free to use water or oil as you prefer. So for your stone despite it previously being used with oil — and &lt;em&gt;even if the stone was specifically made to work with an oil&lt;/em&gt; — if you prefer it you can now use it with water, soapy water or any number of other watery liquids such as screen wash, Windex or equivalent window cleaner (I would, however, strongly steer you or anyone away from commercial honing liquids&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to going from oily mess to watery mess, many 'oilstone' users report that their stones work much more efficiently when not used with an oil of some kind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to put it into action, but not sure exactly how.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you might be able to use the stone as-is, as covered in my previous Answer it'll work a lot better (like it was new) if you clean it first; and this is vital if you wanted to seek a firm ID on the stone type elsewhere online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Cleaning&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are various methods as outlined in the previous Answer above, and also in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/8449/how-to-clean-sharpening-stone-in-wood-case&quot;&gt;How to clean sharpening stone in wood case?&lt;/a&gt; which can be used singly or together depending on what you find as you begin to work on it. Start with just a wash in hot soapy water (as hot as you can bear with gloves on) and go from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Flatten it&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the surface is likely not flat — most old stones that were users in their day are not even reasonably flat when found, and this looks like it might have a localised hollow that it would be very advantageous to get rid of. In addition to getting a flatter stone lapping is one excellent way to get at least one face back to original colour since the abrasion can expose an entirely fresh surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;But check the underside first before you do this.&lt;/strong&gt; Sometimes only one of the two faces of a stone was used and the second one could be pristine! I've been lucky this way a couple of times among the numerous vintage stones that I've bought in recent years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Box too&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted to you could spruce up the case as well using some of the same methods used for stones. Solvent cleaning especially will be found to be very effective for oil-soaked wood. You can even fully immerse wood in solvent to dissolve out absorbed oil; you'll likely need to weigh it down so it doesn't float. And no, this doesn't harm the wood, although it will look really dry and 'parched' when the solvent evaporates afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After as much sanding or scraping as you're comfortable doing and then a thin application of literally any finish and the wood could end up looking surprisingly fresh, quite close to new in some cases&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Including natural slates, black Arkansas stones, carborundum stones originally manufactured by Carborundum and later by many others, and Crystolon stones from Norton which are still made today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Because they are usually grossly overpriced — more expensive than good single-malt whiskies! — while being nothing more than glorified window cleaner in many cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; This box though won't end up looking as-new, it's beat up enough that it'll still have plenty of dings and scratches, stains and rounded edges that show it's an old piece. So you won't lose all signs of its age unless you want to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-11-10T18:48:01.043" LastActivityDate="2022-11-10T18:48:01.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12984" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12985" CreationDate="2021-07-28T07:03:14.700" Score="1" ViewCount="1201" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for some recommendations on sanding irregular surfaces, like rifle stocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried a random orbital sander but it is not giving me satisfactory results, and also it is difficult to handle the orbital sander on this type of structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what I'm working on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iurMR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iurMR.png&quot; alt=&quot;Rifle stock&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tCLka.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tCLka.png&quot; alt=&quot;Inside of rifle stock&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10804" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-07-29T15:25:18.713" LastActivityDate="2021-07-29T15:27:43.657" Title="Best tool for sanding and shaping irregular surfaces" Tags="|hand-tools|sander|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12984" CreationDate="2021-07-28T14:00:43.520" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try a sanding disk on a drill. Similar to what is used to sand wooden bowls, for example &lt;a href=&quot;https://turnawoodbowl.com/bowl-sanding-tools-and-finish-techniques/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like the challenge with the orbital sander might be its size, thats why a small sanding disk on a drill might allow you to approach the gunstock on more comfortable angles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9800" LastEditorUserId="9800" LastEditDate="2021-07-29T12:46:17.820" LastActivityDate="2021-07-29T12:46:17.820" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12986" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12987" CreationDate="2021-07-28T14:09:05.837" Score="2" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xXRmX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xXRmX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't find anything on this in the user manual. If this is similar to my previous router (Bosch branded), you would think that it simply rotates when you need a clear view of the router bit.&#xA;I tried to detach it by pulling (gently) on the top, so that it rotates along what I think are hinges on the bottom, but it's really stiff, judging from the high pitch sound it's making when it snaps back. If I pull harder, I know it's going to either rotate, or break, and I'm not taking any chances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1682" LastActivityDate="2021-07-28T15:40:15.323" Title="Makita RT0700C plunge base, is the plastic guard detachable?" Tags="|router|power-tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12986" CreationDate="2021-07-28T15:40:15.323" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a compliant mechanism. You have to squeeze it slightly like this&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cOmrE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cOmrE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K0zEV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K0zEV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in order to slide it up:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mLEpR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mLEpR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two V-blocks at the back are supports for the rails of the parallel guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1682" LastActivityDate="2021-07-28T15:40:15.323" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12984" CreationDate="2021-07-29T15:15:45.047" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For work like this you need a collection of sanding blocks in various shapes, and sanding sponges, possibly cut into custom shapes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For faster removal this is one of the few situations where small rotary tools like a Dremel will come in handy. Almost certainly you will find all sorts of shaping and sanding attachments suitable for crafting rifle stocks. I suspect a single web search for &amp;quot;dremel gun stock&amp;quot; will yield all sorts of opportunity for parting with your money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've shaped and sanded down to some level with a rotary tool, then I think you should switch to hand sanding using sponges, and store-bought and hand-made blocks. Again, don't reinvent the wheel here; people have been making weapon stocks out of wood for centuries. See what other people are using, possibly on another SE related to gun-making.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is absolutely no tool better for gauging fairness and smoothness (all paramount for rifle stocks) than the human eye and hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-07-29T15:27:43.657" LastActivityDate="2021-07-29T15:27:43.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12989" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-29T16:12:46.427" Score="1" ViewCount="498" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a futon which we would like to use outside as summer seating(It will move outside permanently).  I believe the wood is either rubber wood or some sort of pine.  How should I go about preparing it for outside use?  I have some teak oil which I can apply after sanding the surface, but I get the feeling teak oil by itself will not be enough and I need to seal the surface somehow to protect it from the worst of the rain and sun.  I'm in the UK so a bit of everything weather wise is the norm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit in response to some of the points raised below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The wood is rubberwood  - found a stamp on the piece and traced back from there.  Wikipedia ( &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rubberwood&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rubberwood&lt;/a&gt; + others) does state it is a poor choice for outdoor use due to moisture absorbency. Defined as a hardwood, it is farmed for its sap and at end of commercial life, used for indoor furniture .  However, money is tight and the futon was free and so even if I get just a couple of years use out of it, I will be happy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After initial sanding back for product application, I would prefer to keep future maintenance to simply brushing on a protective layer( once or twice a year is perfectly OK ).  Sanding furniture is a real pain!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We will add some rubber or plastic feet so it is not directly in contact with the ground.  Also, the wife will make a cover for winter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it is really a case of how best to protect it.  I did research before posting but most articles are are either about wood that is suited to outdoor use or construction timber.  Rubberwood is a very poor choice for garden furniture but see point one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7753" LastEditorUserId="7753" LastEditDate="2021-08-01T03:56:00.577" LastActivityDate="2021-09-01T10:01:55.280" Title="Preparing a futon for outside use" Tags="|wood|water-protection|surface-preparation|softwood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12990" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12991" CreationDate="2021-07-30T08:22:32.770" Score="1" ViewCount="554" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can someone explain if you can use an engineer's vice (metalworking vice) to hold wood? Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10760" LastActivityDate="2021-07-31T06:19:57.173" Title="Using an engineer's vice for woodwork" Tags="|vises|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12990" CreationDate="2021-07-30T10:26:32.587" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use &lt;em&gt;anything&lt;/em&gt; that will hold wood to hold wood. Over the centuries this has meant just pushing the wood against a nail or other projection from a bench or beam that you're working on (a method still in common use today all over the world&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;), wooden holdfasts made from a Y-shaped branching of a tree or bush and eventually the iron or steel versions with the same basic shape, various arrangements with ropes and wedges (sometimes together), V-shaped cutouts in a board (a &amp;quot;bird's mouth&amp;quot;), all-wood clamps (e.g. the original handscrews) and all-wood vices and their modern wood-and-metal counterparts&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, and then the modern all-metal vices we know today. This can extend to &lt;em&gt;any vice of any size, shape and type made from metal&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wWR72.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wWR72.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Orwell woodworking&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This perhaps isn't the best example since the vice is pretty tiny and the piece of wood quite large, but I wanted to use it first because that's George Orwell for those who don't recognise him, and how many of us know he liked to do woodwork when he could? :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So some much better examples to illustrate that this isn't something only an amateur does in a pinch, when they have no better option:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ok9dN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ok9dN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;High-end shotgun workshops&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are high end shotgun (££££) stocks being worked on in each of the images, including at Holland &amp;amp; Holland and Purdey, makers of some of the most expensive guns in the world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using what are, on paper, metalworking vices to work on wood has a very long history, probably stretching back to the very earliest metal vices (poss. the blacksmith-made leg vice).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Notes on use&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Engineer's and mechanic's vices, &lt;em&gt;even small ones&lt;/em&gt;, can produce huge clamping force, easily enough to dent some of the hardest woods without exerting yourself pushing on the tommy bar. Softer and medium-hard woods in including oak or beech can still be marred &lt;em&gt;even if the vice is fitted with some of the commercially available 'soft jaws'&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when working with wood if you don't want it dented it's usually important to at least use scrap wood pieces either side of the workpiece to protect it. But manipulating three pieces of wood each time the vice is adjusted is cumbersome and frustrating, so it's worth your time either lining the jaws with wood or hardboard&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;, or actually making your own soft jaws from wood&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt;. You should probably also try using thick leather or felt as cushioning, although personally I find the 'spongy' grip unsatisfactory if I'm doing any job that puts force into the wood&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;5&lt;/sup&gt;; be cautious using fabric as lining as believe it or not the fabric texture can be impressed into the wood surface!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also you don't want things moving around as you work on them and when sawing or shaping by rasp, plane or chisel even a fairly heavy vice of 15-25kg (~30-55 lb) can walk along a work surface if it's not firmly fixed in place. So if your vice isn't heavy enough that it can't be budged, it should be bolted directly to the workbench or work surface, or bolted to a piece of stout wood (most use plywood or MDF these days) that is then clamped to the working surface, whether that's a workbench, a kitchen table or even a chair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Q. v. the Japanese planing beam, rising bench stops set into many traditional European workbenches and any version old or new of the bench dog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Including traditional leg vices, wagon vices and tail vices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Inset magnets can make these easy and fast to swap in and out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt; The wood linings or jaws don't have to be softer than the wood you're working with, but it can help further to prevent denting your workpieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;5&lt;/sup&gt; It's both a little disconcerting and it steals energy, so the work takes longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-07-31T06:19:57.173" LastActivityDate="2021-07-31T06:19:57.173" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12993" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-31T22:33:33.097" Score="2" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve had the swim deck pictured below on my boat for a few summers now and the finish is getting pretty faded. I bought some teak oil to re-oil (right term?) it, but I’m unsure if I should just apply the oil or if I need to sand or pressure wash it first? As you can see there are some spots where the oil/finish hasn’t worn off completely and I want to make sure those spots aren’t darker or anything. My end goal is to have an even finish on it and keep it protected from the water. Can anyone suggest the proper way to refinish it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JT0GZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JT0GZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/omHp1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/omHp1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10827" LastActivityDate="2021-08-01T09:14:26.143" Title="Proper way to re-oil a wood swim deck?" Tags="|finishing|wood-repair|refinishing|water-protection|oiling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12993" CreationDate="2021-08-01T09:14:26.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off well done in recognising that the finish needs to be refreshed now, and not putting it off for longer and have the surface weather further (which isn't likely to result in damage but the looks would take a hit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m unsure if I should just apply the oil or if I need to sand or pressure wash it first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general you do always want to at least clean a surface before you reapply finish or apply a layer of a new finish, and pressure washing is an excellent way of doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instructions for the &amp;quot;teak oil&amp;quot; you bought might not specify cleaning, or even imply it, but it's &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; good practice. In case it's not obvious, &lt;em&gt;the wood must be left to dry thoroughly before the finish is applied&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instructions also may or may not suggest abrading&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; the surface, but even if they don't you can do this. Judging from the photos I don't think it's a requirement in this case, but since it doesn't do any harm I think it's usually a good idea to do it anyway. You're only looking to make the surface more receptive to new finish, not in any way trying to uniformly expose a fresh wood surface. Literally a couple of &lt;em&gt;light&lt;/em&gt; passes is usually enough, all of a few minutes' work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brush/wipe dust off and you're ready for the finish to go on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After application and possibly a short wait time, all instructions for finishes of this type will say something about wiping away excess but it's normal for this not to be given enough emphasis. You are seeking to wipe away ALL excess; the surface should not be noticeably oily when you're done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the wood was previously finished one coat may be enough, but you may need to apply two coats to achieve uniform colouring and surface sheen. Be guided by what you see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Safety note:&lt;/strong&gt; if you use cloths or paper towels for application or removal of excess oil these are a fire hazard and these can spontaneously combust in the wrong conditions. But it's simple to deal with them safely, just lay them flat on the ground until they have gone stiff and you can then dispose of them as normal household waste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Afterwards&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Once dry to the touch the finish is not nearly at full strength, so only use it lightly (if at all) and avoid exposure to weather for at least a week. If possible wait a fortnight or longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most &amp;quot;teak oil&amp;quot; products are fundamentally the same and here is a sampling of the instructions from a few manufacturers:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ronseal.com/products/teak-oil/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ronseal&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.liberon.co.uk/product/teak-oil-uv/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Liberon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rustoleum.com/-/media/DigitalEncyclopedia/Documents/RustoleumUSA/TDS/English/CBG/Watco/WAT-11_Watco_Teak_Oil_TDS.ashx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Watco&lt;/a&gt; (note, owned by Rustoleum)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.totalboat.com/product/teak-oil/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TotalBoat&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see the application guidelines are broadly similar but may mention something that another does not, so look for a detail like this for the product you've bought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Almost always sanding will be specifed but this doesn't mean you have to use sandpaper, you're just looking to lightly abrade the surface. This can be done with any med-fine abrasive paper, cloth or screen (180-240 grit is about right), or with Scotch-Brite or another non-woven nylon abrasive — you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; use a nylon scouring pad in place of something specifically marketed for woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-08-01T09:14:26.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12995" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-01T13:59:57.770" Score="1" ViewCount="364" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a lot of coconuts which I broke (hitting them) to eat and I would like to use the wood to try some experiments. I would like to cut them uniformly so that I can have flat cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example to build something really simple like a bowl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which tools (as cheap as possible) can be used to make this kind of cuts safely and more or less precisely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10753" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-08-01T18:38:15.507" LastActivityDate="2021-08-03T16:29:00.910" Title="What tool to cut a spherical piece of wood [coconut shell]?" Tags="|tools|cutting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12989" CreationDate="2021-08-02T09:42:50.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I mention in the Comments, doing nothing to this in terms of adding new finish is actually an option as strange as it sounds. We're programmed to think that wood must be coated somehow if it's in an outdoor setting, and various finishes &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; help protect wood &lt;em&gt;and maintain looks&lt;/em&gt;, but the actions of rain and sun aren't so damaging that you have to coat everything that isn't pressure-treated to resist decay. And since you say you would be OK with just a couple of years the wood will almost certainly last that long with nothing done to it, although it will naturally weather and go grey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But obviously you can apply various finishes that will ensure it lasts longer, and keep it looking better until the futon is at the end of its useful life. These include, in rough descending order of protection:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paint.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Marine varnish&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A penetrating finish such as &amp;quot;teak oil&amp;quot; &lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the right paint is chosen in addition to providing the highest level of protection possible it will require the least intervention, since a good exterior-rated paint has a touch up/refinishing schedule of 5+ years, and possibly as much as 7-10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Marine varnish as used on boats is of course purpose-made to protect wood in very challenging conditions, including much more water of course. There are a couple of downsides though, the major one possibly being the looks — marine varnishes need to be put on thickly, producing a slick glossy finish which you might not care for visually or find pleasant for skin contact; they're also usually &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; yellow-orange, and at typical coat thickness the wood will be made decidedly yellowish. It's not to every taste!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Teak oil&amp;quot; or something similar provides the least protection, but I suspect enough for your purposes here. It's the easiest to apply to a high standard (no brushwork experience required) and it is the easiest finish type to touch up later, or if there's a scuff through to bare wood on a leg or an exposed corner. It will also alter the colour of the wood the least since there's essentially no surface film.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We will add some rubber or plastic feet so it is not directly in contact with the ground. Also, the wife will make a cover for winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both very good ideas. I was going to suggest sealing the feet with epoxy to prevent water intrusion but rubber/plastic feet should accomplish the same goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;One other potential worry&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The wood itself, despite not being an exterior-durable wood, may not be the major concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As this piece wasn't intended to go outdoors the joints could be the Achilles's heel here. The glue might not be water-resistant and any fasteners (even if zinc plated) could readily rust. Adding a protective finish will help with both of these but might not completely protect so you'll just have to try it and see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;em&gt;Not&lt;/em&gt; yacht varnish as sold in normal paint outlets, it's not typically in the same ballpark (hence the price differential).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; See &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/12993/proper-way-to-re-oil-a-wood-swim-deck/12994#12994&quot;&gt;Answer from yesterday&lt;/a&gt; with a little on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-08-02T09:42:50.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12995" CreationDate="2021-08-03T16:29:00.910" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider putting the broken side down (so it looks like a dome on your workbench), and cutting with a hand saw with the saw held horizontally. You should be able to hold it down reasonably easily by placing your palm on it and pushing down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cutting horizontally can be difficult, but you might be able to place a block of wood on each side of the shell that are the thickness of the piece you want to cut off. Use these pieces of wood as a guide to keep the saw level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it ends up working reasonably well, you may want to make an &amp;quot;official&amp;quot; jig for this, screwing or gluing some blocks of wood together to make it a bit easier. If you want the finished rings to have parallel sides, you will also need a way to make your guide blocks adjustable so that you can cut at a slope since I'd assume that your breaks aren't exactly aligned along the equator of the coconut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2021-08-03T16:29:00.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12999" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-04T22:49:21.253" Score="0" ViewCount="956" Body="&lt;p&gt;I pulled the tile out of my dining table and replaced it with multiple wooden slats that I torched, sanded, then stained. The valleys in the grain are amazing and I left a smooth board in the center with mine and my children's hand prints. The problem is the material I used when done was shorter that the area it was going into. I had planned on filling it with resin but couldn't afford it so I put some polyurethane on it to prevent damage. It's been covered and unused for months. Is it safe to fill in with resin/epoxy or anything that will level it without damaging what's there?&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MgYtA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KgevG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&#xA;I want to pour in a self leveling resin or epoxy that would spill over the sides to completely fill in the center and create a level surface. It's completely covered in poly right now.  The soft grain in the purple boards has been ground out after blow torching the wood leaving the hard grain black. You can feel every ridge and valley running your fingers over it. Would that help with bonding. I can't really remove the poly without damaging the color underneath. I could completely strip the black perimeter of poly if that would help. There's also minor gaps in-between enough of the pieces that whatever I pour would be able to get in and underneath the edges of the strips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10854" LastEditorUserId="10854" LastEditDate="2021-08-05T15:35:43.110" LastActivityDate="2021-08-06T06:11:30.337" Title="Can resin or epoxy be poured over a poly finish?" Tags="|polyurethane|refinishing|epoxy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13000" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-05T00:16:54.713" Score="0" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am finishing a live edge slab for a bathroom sink vanity countertop. The slab is absolutely perfect for the space, but had a chunk broken on the side of it. I sanded the chunk out as much as I can, and feathered in the depression so that it blends in pretty well. However, there’s still a slightly visible dent in the slab. I’d rather not keep sanding it out, so that the countertop doesn’t have an even deeper depression. However, I’m looking for suggestions on how to finish it off (epoxy seal? Just finish with the Rubio monocoat as is? A creative solution I haven’t thought of?) thanks! &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SHRf4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10855" LastActivityDate="2021-08-05T02:10:10.923" Title="Live edge slab “dent” protection" Tags="|live-edge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13000" CreationDate="2021-08-05T02:10:10.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might be able to repair the dent with the steam technique.  Get a clothes iron and place a wet towel over the dent and use the iron to heat up the towel and generate hot water and steam.  Ideally the dented wood fibers expand and fill out the dent again.  Once it's dry the dent won't return.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="837" LastActivityDate="2021-08-05T02:10:10.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12999" CreationDate="2021-08-05T06:36:20.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it safe to fill in with resin/epoxy or anything that will level it without damaging what's there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We don't know quite what you're facing but epoxy doesn't damage cured poly so you're fine as far as that goes. But if there's poly anywhere where the epoxy is intended to be you won't get any decent bond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All film finishes offer some level of protection from epoxy bonding. If you pre-finish stuff you can see this effect for yourself (and learn to rely on it) since excess epoxy lifts off the surface with very little effort — up to the point that it can sometimes be picked off just with your fingernails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit based on photo added&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I think you should do something to help ensure a good bond here. Ideally such a poured finish will go on to bare wood which has plenty of microscopic texture for the resin to bond with. Since that's no longer an option it would help a lot to provide some microtexture for the epoxy to grip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A gentle scuffing of the surface with fine Scotch-Brite or similar, or &lt;em&gt;lightly&lt;/em&gt; sanding with a cushioned sanding block and 320 abrasive is enough. You're just looking to produce a reasonably uniform matt surface finish to create what's called a 'mechanical bond'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brush/blow/wipe/vacuum the dust off — &lt;em&gt;ideally in another room to the one you're intending to do your pour in&lt;/em&gt;, since fine airborne dust can remain in the air for an amazing amount of time (hours).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-08-06T06:11:30.337" LastActivityDate="2021-08-06T06:11:30.337" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13003" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-06T00:36:03.057" Score="1" ViewCount="324" Body="&lt;p&gt;My upcoming cabinet carcass calls for 1&amp;quot; crown staples to butt join 1/2&amp;quot; plywood pieces. It's a fast build for garage cabinets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's a suitable alternative if I don't have a compressor/nailer? Everywhere I read calls for pin nails or something automatic. Nails would be ideal, but maybe not a good choice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a butt joint into plywood so I'm wary of screws. Open to suggestions! Someone said pre-drill and use confirmat screws, but it would be a lot of extra work and money over nails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10857" LastEditorUserId="10857" LastEditDate="2021-08-06T12:14:21.243" LastActivityDate="2021-08-06T12:14:21.243" Title="What's the manual alternative to 1&quot; crown staples in cabinet joints?" Tags="|joinery|plywood|cabinetry|nails|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13003" CreationDate="2021-08-06T05:55:29.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My upcoming project calls for 1&amp;quot; crown staples to join 1/2&amp;quot; plywood pieces. What's a suitable alternative if I don't have a compressor/nailer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reason I'm not specifying a size is it's up to you, since it's not just the size/gauge of a fastener that's important, but how many of them you use &lt;em&gt;and how they're driven&lt;/em&gt; — with nails the correct way to maximise holding power is to drive them in 'dovetail fashion'. So if you for example use six nails along a joint then three would lean to the right, three to the left. This gives a direct mechanical hold beyond just the friction of the nails in the material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Open to suggestions!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally glue and nail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding glue to a joint can add &lt;em&gt;greatly&lt;/em&gt; to the strength once the glue has cured. Technically you won't need to use clamps if in addition to the glue you use nails or screws as the fasteners act like a clamp. It is generally very helpful if you can clamp the piece up for assembly though, but you can release the clamps immediately so that they're freed up for the next task if you'd prefer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; very lightly sand both the end and the face of the plywood where the glue will be applied to freshen the surface, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4151/what-do-i-need-to-do-to-prepare-wood-for-gluing/4159#4159&quot;&gt;for this reason&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-08-06T05:55:29.147" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13005" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-07T07:48:26.467" Score="3" ViewCount="321" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most paint companies have the option to buy satin or gloss exterior water-based paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very rarely do I find matte exterior paint. There's lots of interior matte paint, but exterior matte paint is much more rare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I ask companies or people about this, the argument is that matte paint gets dirty easier and is harder to clean than satin and gloss paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I find this kind of a weird argument, I see lots of old houses with old paint that that has no shine and is completely matte. Sure, that paint was probably old oil based paint that lost its initial shine, but I prefer the look of matte paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read somewhere that matte paint contains more pigment and is costlier to make, could that be one of the reasons? That it is a cost-cutting measure by manufacturers to not offer matte exterior paint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it because matte paint doesn't hold up as well outside as glossy paint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is it really because no one wants exterior matte paint anymore because it's harder to clean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10858" LastEditorUserId="10858" LastEditDate="2021-08-07T07:53:59.857" LastActivityDate="2021-08-11T00:34:19.740" Title="Why do most paint companies not sell matte exterior based paint?" Tags="|paint|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13005" CreationDate="2021-08-07T16:30:17.497" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think there is very little demand , most want semi-gloss. Matte would add nothing to durability. The way it was done that I know of, is to add diatomaceous earth . Years ago , I made some semi gloss by adding diatomaceous earth to gloss (exact color match). Surface appearance and cleanliness is a function of &amp;quot;chalking&amp;quot; .  Chalking is more an affect of the resin. Acrylics have strong resistance to UV so do not chalk much; so they tend to be dirtier. When paint chalks, the chalk washes off in rain and takes dirt with it. We painted a couple steel refinery storage tanks with urethane , they were gloss and looked great. But the urethane did not chalk and held dirt, so a couple years in a refinery and they looked so bad ( dirty) the manager had them repainted although the paint itself was good.&#xA;And, in general, it is more expensive to make gloss than matte paints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3966" LastEditorUserId="3966" LastEditDate="2021-08-07T18:49:02.710" LastActivityDate="2021-08-07T18:49:02.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13007" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-08T17:01:01.270" Score="0" ViewCount="492" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to know it I can actually plunge-cut with a router right into the end grain, and use a template with some bit with a bearing to cut a non-through hole into the end grain. To make things more clear, I'm looking for a way to craft something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sAf7T.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sAf7T.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using oak, so as it is very dense, it's quite hard to drill, especially into end grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I actually tried to drill into the end grain using a Forstner bit, but the process is really slow and I'm pretty sure I dulled the bit by making only two of these holders, so I'm looking for faster and cheaper way to do this (assuming the router bit is cheaper than a Forstner bit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please let me know if that can be done with a router at all and what issues should I expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5232" LastEditorUserId="5232" LastEditDate="2021-08-08T21:25:53.887" LastActivityDate="2021-08-09T13:05:34.507" Title="Plunge-routing into end grain" Tags="|router|end-grain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13008" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-08T23:48:08.440" Score="0" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to safely make places of closure for this necklace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The necklace has one place of closure at the neck and another one in the middle of the necklace, bottom (needs 3 places of closure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom of the closure is in wood and the other one  at the neck has wood on the bottom (1/8”) and resin on top (3/8” /16).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Velcro will not work because it’s too light and the necklace is heavy solid wood and will open up on the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Screws won’t work because it needs to open and close as often as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I saw magnets which would be perfect but those ones may accidentally pinch the skin which would be dangerous&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://wondertrail.com/hobby-supplies-en/magnets/macnsn0657-1-4-x-1-16-magnets-dics-by-magcraft.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://wondertrail.com/hobby-supplies-en/magnets/macnsn0657-1-4-x-1-16-magnets-dics-by-magcraft.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;So maybe those magnets &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.first4magnets.com/countersunk-c41&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.first4magnets.com/countersunk-c41&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Could they pinch the skin accidentally?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you think those will work (they require a screw), how do I make a hole in the wood and the resin to place the magnets? What type of tool is needed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have pics but don't know how to upload them on this website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10864" LastActivityDate="2021-08-10T14:29:08.570" Title="Create places of closure for a necklace" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13007" CreationDate="2021-08-09T00:44:57.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently done a fair amount of slotting, grooving, and holing in plywood and hardwood, so I may as well offer an answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, the typical answer for the usual commercial items you picture is: CNC. This is almost certainly how this is done at scale, even when making 10s of items for local gift shops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The comments mention another option of using a better Forstner bit, keeping it sharp every few holes. This is probably doable, but it is easy to run a Forstner bit at the wrong RPM, feed rate, tool pressure, or failing to clear chips enough, without burning the material or taking the edge of the tool right off. So I understand your interest in asking if a router would be better. There is a learning curve associated with Forstner bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sort of depends on the size and depth of the hole. If the hole diameter is much larger than an inch then Forstner bits can get a bit unwieldy. A large good bit will be kind of pricey, but you'll want to set up a jig or drill press -- something with a positive stop -- so you can clear the chips and manage the heat of the cut by managing the speed of the cutters and the pressure on the tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A router with a pattern or template bit would also work. Again, depending on the material and tooling, you'll probably have to work your way down to the depth you want. You'll have to dream up some sort of jig to lower the cutter between passes if your router can't do this easily. I find it easier to just remove 3/8 inch shims to drop the entire tool in the jig, rather than messing with the tool height. There are lots of DIY examples of jigs like this out there for you to copy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you will want to pay attention to the direction of the cutters. You probably don't want to climb-cut (have the cutters spinning such that they &amp;quot;pull&amp;quot; themselves along and across the material).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, it might be a lot of material to remove with a router. One trick is to hog out most of the material with an auger bit (one without a centre screw, probably) in a press or jig, stopping quite short of your diameter and depth, and then use the router to clean up the bottom and edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice is to just try it. Get a scrap piece and try a few different methods. See how easy it is to make consistent holes with an expensive name-brand Forstner bit in a jig while clearing the waste a lot. See how this compares with a router hogging out all or some of the material. See if climb-cutting gives you a nicer edge, or if the tool wants to run away from you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As is tradition in my WW.SE communications: Please be wary of routers. Remember that the primary job of any power tool is to separate the meat from the unwary operator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-08-09T13:05:34.507" LastActivityDate="2021-08-09T13:05:34.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13008" CreationDate="2021-08-09T11:36:41.297" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Magnets are a good idea. To get the hole for them, I would say a pillar drill (for circular magnets) do mortiser (for oblong/square) would be the best way to go about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The concern about being pinched is also valid. I would suggest you coat it in fabric and some cushioning. This would make it softer and you are less likely to hurt yourself, plus a velvety texture on the inside would be a nice contrast to a wooden exterior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: as you (and anyone you know) may not have a pillar drill / mortiser, then power drills may be useful with the applicable radius. The biggest problen with this is it may bot be perfectly centered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10865" LastEditorUserId="10865" LastEditDate="2021-08-10T14:29:08.570" LastActivityDate="2021-08-10T14:29:08.570" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13005" CreationDate="2021-08-09T16:05:04.973" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know for a fact, but my experience is that matte finish doesn't hold up well to the elements, it looks dirty/damaged all the time, and it doesn't clean as well as a gloss or semi-gloss. Matte finishes typically aren't as tough as a gloss either, at least that I've seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, as you said, I believe it's because matte finishes just won't work well in the elements and people won't be happy with the paint so not that many companies make them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10857" LastActivityDate="2021-08-09T16:05:04.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13013" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-10T13:08:30.277" Score="2" ViewCount="440" Body="&lt;p&gt;My router supports 6mm shank bits. However the bits that I have are 6.35mm shank diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I safely and reliably change the collet of the router to accept a 6.35mm tool without compromising safety?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10870" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-08-31T19:20:12.277" LastActivityDate="2021-09-28T18:37:02.300" Title="Problem in the shank diameter of trim router bits" Tags="|safety|router-bit|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13013" CreationDate="2021-08-10T13:28:41.760" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;6.35mm is exactly 1/4&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the two are &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; close in size (I mean 0.35mm - how bad could it be?) when you have a chunk of metal spinning at ~20000RPM, it can get very bad very quickly. Your question about safety is &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; valid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you change to a 1/4&amp;quot; collet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yes, &lt;strong&gt;if your router supports changing to a 1/4&amp;quot; collet&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Otherwise, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;NO&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your router does &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; support installation of a 1/4&amp;quot; collet, then do not attempt to do so. It will be far cheaper to sell/give away/trash the unusable 1/4&amp;quot; bits than it would be to repair the damage to flesh caused by the bit coming loose and careening around the room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2021-08-10T13:28:41.760" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13005" CreationDate="2021-08-10T17:20:49.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, I think it's mostly a demand issue. Matte exterior wood paint does exist:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.teknos.com/products/aquatop-2600-90/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.teknos.com/products/aquatop-2600-90/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(If you look at the Technical Data it shows a &amp;quot;Matt&amp;quot; finish)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this producer as far as I'm aware mainly sells to industry. Having worked in the wood window and door industry I think we only got asked for a matte finish a couple of times in 10+ years, and we shipped 1-2 houses worth of windows/doors per day (probably 3000+ orders in that time). The company's representative also said that they don't have much demand for matte.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to bear in mind is that it's not only the finish that affects paint durability - the colour does too. The darker the paint, the more/faster it will degrade in sunlight. White will last the longest, and lighter off-whites or very light shades of green, grey, blue etc. will last almost as long. Of course shelter from the elements, particularly the sun will also extend the life of the paint finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our standard finish was a &amp;quot;satin&amp;quot; with a 60% sheen level - so, far from a full gloss. I'm unsure of how often you have to recoat full-gloss, but the satin paints we used (top-quality paint from Teknos), if white, would last up to 7 years before needing a sand and recoat. And I know that wasn't just marketing because I would often go out to buildings which had had our products fitted 5, 6, 7 or more years ago and see the condition of the paintwork. Black paint would last more like 2 years before a recoat, if in direct sunlight, so we would generally advise our customers not to have black / very dark colours for this reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as cleaning, my personal opinion is that the satin paints are a happy medium. Both true matte and full gloss finishes show up greasy marks which can be difficult to remove, and while satin surfaces hold more dust than gloss, they don't have the &amp;quot;sticky&amp;quot; surface that gloss paint does and therefore it's relatively easy to wash off with water and/or some mild (dish) detergent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2021-08-10T17:20:49.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13016" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-10T21:02:38.877" Score="-2" ViewCount="145" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought this plane 35 years ago at a flea market just because I liked it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v6e2j.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v6e2j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fvVDZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fvVDZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can any one tell me what it is or is it a combination of parts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10874" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-08-23T09:48:19.177" LastActivityDate="2021-08-23T09:48:19.177" Title="What is this plane" Tags="|plane|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13017" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13026" CreationDate="2021-08-10T21:22:30.163" Score="2" ViewCount="237" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am finishing a piece of acacia glued up stave construction commonly called butcher block.  It will be used as a desktop. I sanded it to 320 and put 3 coats of BLO/MS on it. It's mostly cured (I haven't been able to detect any oil residue being picked up if I rub it with my hand or a clean cloth for several days, but there is still some mild odor), and looking really good. I'd be happy to leave it like that as far as appearance, but I figure it needs some more protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've purchased some oil based gloss polyurethane.  Oil based because it's cheaper and it seems the most significant advantage of water based is shorter drying times, but I'm not very concerned with that.  And gloss because I understand that the additives that create a satin finish weaken the varnish and also cause cloudiness.  It's still sealed, though, so I could exchange it if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tentatively plan to mix up either a BLO/MS/poly blend or a poly/MS wiping varnish.  But, due to my inexperience, I'm confused as to how to balance the look I want with getting enough protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Goal:&#xA;A finish that is protective and will retain a look similar to the one I have now: close to the wood and with a soft sheen, not glossy, and also not matte.  I don't mind if the finish needs to be renewed occasionally, maybe 1x/year or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resources &amp;amp; limitations:  I'm a total beginner with no skills or experience.  I don't have access to any power tools or other equipment or supplies.  I have BLO, MS, and oil based gloss polyurethane on hand.  Also a sanding block and 150, 220, &amp;amp; 320 sandpaper.  &amp;amp; rags.  I can, if necessary, pick up some additional items at Lowe's or Home Depot, but I need to keep costs very low.&#xA;Resources I can spend more easily include time (especially drying/curing time) and moderate elbow grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question:&#xA;Considering the limitations I've outlined, what is the best path forward to reach my goal?  I realize there will be trade-offs and it's at least partly a matter of opinion, but even after a lot of googling, I don't feel informed enough to make a decision.  So answers that will help a newbie better understand the pros/cons of different alternatives will be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10866" LastEditorUserId="10866" LastEditDate="2021-08-11T21:39:44.923" LastActivityDate="2021-08-12T00:22:13.330" Title="How to obtain protective yet close to the wood satin finish on desktop?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13019" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-11T00:19:17.620" Score="0" ViewCount="292" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E7yoD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E7yoD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;drill press&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;My neighbor gave me an old drill press. He said it hadn’t been used in 30 years.  I wanted to try to restore it, but I’m having trouble getting it apart.  From what I can see, the handle shaft gear looks to big to slide past the body. I don’t see any snap rings inside the body or on the handle.  With the handle set screw out, it free-wheels on the shaft but doesn’t seem to budge with prying or trying to tap it loose. No make or model on the body.  Any ideas what I’m working with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4323" LastActivityDate="2021-08-13T08:41:18.963" Title="Old drill press. How do I remove the handle/quill" Tags="|power-tools|tool-maintenance|restoration|tool-repair|drill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13005" CreationDate="2021-08-11T00:34:19.740" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Matte paint is not more expensive.  There is a reason what flat paint is the go-to for cheap contractors.  It has absolutely no protection against the elements, but it’s cheap.  You look at it wrong and you have a permanent stain.  Exterior flat paint is impractical.  Which is why you don’t see it.  If you want a flat durable paint for outdoors, look into milk/chalk paint.  If you are looking to replicate old world paint, this is the best option since this was old world paint.  It will cost more and will need to be waxed. However they have low sheen waxes to preserve the flat look.  It also looks nice and is thixotropic.  Which means it will work well undiluted in a sprayer as well as go on nice and smooth and thick with a brush or roller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4323" LastActivityDate="2021-08-11T00:34:19.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13021" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-11T02:16:30.673" Score="0" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen paint blistering before, but this is the first time I noticed it on my own project. My wood project had been in the rain outside during the night, and there were lots of bubbles on the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I open one of those paint blisters, I can see the primer is still completely intact and still adheres great, the topcoat adheres far less well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The weak link seems 1 paint layer (the top coat) that does not adhere strongly to the one below it (the primer) and moisture gets in. Yet the primer adheres fine to the substrate below it (the wood).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if the weak link is paint-to-paint adhesion, and paint-to-wood adhesion is much more reliable, then why are we applying primers for exterior wood and why aren't we simply skipping the primer? I know there are now topcoat+primer solutions, but why are we applying a primer to begin with if it becomes the weak link that causes the topcoat to lose adhesion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10875" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-08-11T07:22:21.767" LastActivityDate="2021-08-12T07:50:53.973" Title="Do primers actually help or hurt paint adhesion?" Tags="|paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13021" CreationDate="2021-08-11T08:09:20.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I outline in my Comment, this is a little too broad for the SE format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer the title query though, primer &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; help paint adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifics are important though starting with the primer type and paint type, regardless if the same or different&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. Other details matter, &lt;em&gt;possibly more&lt;/em&gt;, and any or all of them may be factors when there's an unexpected failure such as you experienced. These include, but are not limited to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Incomplete drying of the primer before painting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inadequate curing of the paint before exposure to the elements.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Primer or paint not being mixed thoroughly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adverse drying conditions when primer or paint went on&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Application caused the surface of the primer to end up too slick.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Something in the wood caused the surface of the primer to end up too slick&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is of course possible that nothing in the environment contributed to the issue &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; you did nothing wrong. It could just be that the primer or paint was the cause. So last but not least:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A bad batch of the primer or the paint.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To try to bottom-line this for you, if you used a primer/paint system within the guidelines then this should not have occurred and the best recourse would be to contact the manufacturer concerned and see what they have to say. Give plenty of detail in your email, including batch numbers if you can find them on the cans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you used non-matching primer and paint however all bets are off; while you might get some on-point suggestions of possible causes from one or both manufacturers they may be unwilling to commit to anything more than the expected recommendation that you use their primer and paint together to ensure reliable results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm deliberately taking the following out of context because it's a highly related point that is worth addressing individually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;why are we applying a primer to begin with&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously because it's supposed to help, however, that's NOT to say you can't paint directly on to wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact in numerous situations you can paint directly on to bare wood surfaces and get perfectly good results. This was the norm in various places and times historically when there was either no primer or no access to it, so they had no choice but to just use the paint. As well as this, some paints&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt;  just work best if applied straight to wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some things can be done to help ensure good results, such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Make sure the wood is clean before starting&lt;/em&gt;. This is always good advice anyway, and is especially important if using waterbased paints of any kind.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dilute the first two coats, the first heavily the second not as much. Note that this may directly contradict the manufacturer's instructions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply enough paint that you're confident you don't have thin areas or gaps. Be especially vigilant about missed spots around any joints. So if you have any doubts that the third full-strength coat was enough do apply a fourth coat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait long enough after the final coat has been applied before putting the item into service&lt;sup&gt;5&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; They don't have to be the same to work well together, but it can (should) help if they are both of the same type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Both too fast and too slow can cause issues. Paint can dry too quickly if for example there's direct sun on it immediately after application, or if it's just too hot; it can dry too slowly if the humidity is too high and/or the temperature is low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; The rising of 'extractives' through the primer coat, settling on the surface, will cause adhesion problems whether to the next coat of primer or to subsequent paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt; Including exterior linseed-oil paint, milk paint and some other old formulas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;5&lt;/sup&gt; This is to ensure proper curing; this usually takes &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; longer than we think, even for waterbased paints — at a minimum take the drying time, multiply it by 20, then add more!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-08-12T07:50:53.973" LastActivityDate="2021-08-12T07:50:53.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13023" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13024" CreationDate="2021-08-11T11:14:06.543" Score="2" ViewCount="409" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on building a base for a queen-sized mattress, and need to decide on a material for the base's sub-structure frame. I am planning on covering/cladding this frame with a hardwood like White or French Oak. I know that mixing hardwoods and softwoods together is ill-advised due to wood movement especially in softwood, but building the entire sub-structure frame out of even a cheap hardwood will push this project way out of budget.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a company in my area that sells reclaimed Baltic Pine (I live in South Africa). I've worked with it before and it seems to be about the same density as our regular local pine (may be a bit harder if I do a thumbnail-press-test). This option would be great as it would bring me in way under budget.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My second option would be to use cheap 15mm Pine Plywood (I think these have an Okoume core) and laminate them together to create the needed structural components. However, I've worked out that for this project, I would therefore need to purchase at least 4 sheets which will cost me 6x the amount of purchasing the required Baltic Pine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't given any thought yet to what method I will be using to attach the hardwood to the frame, but I'll probably end up settling on using regular cold wood glue and countersunk screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So my question is, is there a way I can make this work using the Baltic Pine?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The picture below is just a depiction of what I have in mind, using the frame posts as an example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yFuA1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yFuA1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10878" LastActivityDate="2021-08-24T14:26:42.157" Title="Plywood or Pine for bed base sub-structure" Tags="|plywood|hardwood|softwood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13023" CreationDate="2021-08-11T13:13:27.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short, to answer your question, I don't think this is the best design for softwood construction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the material you choose will drive the joinery, not the other way around. Either will do, but the best way to make a carcase out of plywood will not be the best way to make a carcase out of pine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plywood takes fasteners and glue really well, and is very stable in all directions under most circumstances. So simple joints like you show will be stable and probably won't change much under static and racking loads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pine, depending on overall quality, will likely deform and can wallow out where fasteners go through it. It will move with the relative humidity along one axis more than the others over time, loosening glue and screw joints. So, for example, the way you show the pine on either side of the foot or compression piece may start to move and check over time because of natural wood movement and racking forces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Decide on the material, then use that material the way that reinforces its strengths and minimizes the weaknesses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, choose your design and let that inform the material you use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-08-12T12:52:26.667" LastActivityDate="2021-08-12T12:52:26.667" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13016" CreationDate="2021-08-11T17:35:55.253" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is built in the style of a &lt;strong&gt;British infill plane&lt;/strong&gt;, with an iron or steel body, hardwood 'stuffing' (mahogany?) and brass or bronze lever cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a smoothing plane, or as commonly called today a smoother, which are intended to be the last plane in a sequence that takes wood from rough to perfectly flat and flawlessly smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can just make out in the first photo that it has a Norris iron (and presumably cap iron) fitted, but that doesn't mean it is a Norris as both parts were sold as separate components. While superficially it looks like one of their planes that weren't fitted with the now-famous-again Norris adjuster I don't believe Norrises ever had such prominent screws through the cheeks holding the infills in place. This and other key details I think argue strongly against this being a Norris.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So despite how professionally made this looks there is a chance it's a user-made tool; possibly from a kit of parts sold through a magazine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More on infill planes, if you're interested, at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.infill-planes.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Infill Planes Showcase&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-08-11T17:35:55.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13017" CreationDate="2021-08-12T00:22:13.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you've done so far will provide a good base for either of the options you're choosing between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be happy to leave it like that as far as appearance, but I figure it needs some more protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could certainly do with more yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An oil finish is minimally protective anyway, and three thinned coats barely starts the process — as covered in some existing Answers the prior standards for an oil finish would mean seven coats, undiluted, were applied &lt;em&gt;in the first week alone&lt;/em&gt;, and would typically well exceed a dozen coats before the job was considered completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tentatively plan to mix up either a BLO/MS/poly blend or a poly/MS wiping varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A blended finish&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; or polyurethane wiping varnish are both viable options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I've pointed out a couple of times previously the main selling point to the consumer for blended finishes seems to be the ease of application and close-to-the-wood look. But the application method can be &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; the same for wiping varnish (apply generously, wipe away all excess) and if only a few coats are used the look is virtually the same while providing superior protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, many people are very happy with the performance and durability of &amp;quot;Danish oil&amp;quot; et al on various household items as you probably have already discovered, so it can't be discounted entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gloss level&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Both options will naturally increase gloss to some degree, the wiping varnish more than the blended finish as you'd expect but not excessively so&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. Don't worry about ending up with a too-glossy surface however as gloss level can be knocked back very easily with minimal effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the minimum just buffing the surface after it has first dried with a cloth can reduce gloss by a noticeable amount. If want to go further going over the surface very lightly with fine steel wool should give you what you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't mind if the finish needs to be renewed occasionally, maybe 1x/year or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you chose to use a blended finish I doubt you'll need to top up anything close to annually; depending on usage you might not need to do a thing for about five years. The last item I finished this way was a chest of drawers whose top is used as a vanity and it is in a high-traffic area, and approximately two years on there are no real signs of wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use wiping varnish it might not need any touchups or renewal for as much as ten years, again depending on use and how much cleaning it sees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; These are basically a homemade version of what's sold as &amp;quot;Danish oil&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;tung oil finish&amp;quot; and a few other commercial names in case you didn't read this elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Particularly if you thin the varnish by 50% or more (and I would advise this, as it makes wiping varnish much easier to work with on large surfaces) and wipe the surface dry after application the gloss won't build up too fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-08-12T00:22:13.330" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13019" CreationDate="2021-08-13T08:41:18.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know what you're facing here, but I thought I'd provide something that &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; help so this Q doesn't remain unanswered (meaning it will subsequently bob back to the top over the coming months and years).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First to repeat my point from my Comment, you may not have to get this fully apart to get it up and running. IMO if there's no obvious way something comes apart, or there appears to be but it won't budge (more on this below), the best course of action initially is to see if it's possible to work around it, even though this can be awkward and slow things down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do know, intimately, the urge to disassemble down to all component parts :-) But it's just not necessary in every case. A good example of this is the Jacobs chuck, which few people take apart during a drill restoration to clean inside&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, let's look at what you're facing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the handle set screw out, it free-wheels on the shaft but doesn’t seem to budge with prying or trying to tap it loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume the handle isn't captured and can pull straight off, in which case I think the issue might be a very tight fit (a press fit) to the shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since there's so little play side to side, essentially none, prying and tapping at even the slightest angle is almost guaranteed not to work. [Anyone with an engineering background will know exactly where I'm heading here.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a similar issue on a part of something once, where no amount of careful prying or knocking from the back, working carefully around the circumference, would shift it even a little bit forward; I tried repeatedly over a couple/several days and got nowhere. I was confident it must come straight off its spindle but couldn't figure out a way to accomplish this so went searching online and found the solution — a crude version of a bearing puller&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. And lo and behold, because the pulling force was directly in line with the axis as I started to turn the central bolt the thing moved &lt;em&gt;instantly&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some commercial bearing pullers that look like they'd work for this — two-jaw, with a long reach — perhaps a buddy who is into cars might have one you could borrow so you don't have to buy one just for this. But if you had to you could fashion something quick and dirty from wood and some cheap bits of hardware that would work similarly and might get the job done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Although the methodology is obscure it's not especially difficult. For anyone who does want to go that far the process is well described online&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; In my case made from a strip of plywood and three bolts LOL&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Cue big grin and feeling of accomplishment, but tempered almost immediately with the thought that if the fit was this tight I might not be able to get it back on again......&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-08-13T08:41:18.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13028" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-13T16:30:32.217" Score="1" ViewCount="200" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been using a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dewalt.com/products/power-tools/saws/table-saws/10-jobsite-table-saw--32--12-825cm-rip-capacity-and-a-rolling-stand/dwe7491rs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DeWalt 7491RS Jobsite Table Saw&lt;/a&gt; since Dec '20 and as it was shutting down after cutting yesterday the blade wouldn't stop on its own. After I stopped it I saw why - the arbor nut was almost off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen 2 other threads about this issue and noticed that several people said they were going to contact manufacturer and I was wondering, was anyone satisfied with their solution? I called DeWalt and talked to a factory service center person and was treated like I'm quite stupid and had to really fight to get them to agree to see it. Now, of course, I'm concerned that they won't find anything because it took 8 months for the problem to show up. I also don't want to use the saw again because my understanding is that this shouldn't happen at all and it's a serious safety problem. I don't want the blade flying out of the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a few times let the saw run while turning away to grab another piece of wood. Would the blade loosen if running and not actually cutting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any feedback greatly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10901" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2021-08-13T17:05:48.270" LastActivityDate="2021-08-13T17:05:48.270" Title="DeWalt 7491RS arbor nut loosens" Tags="|blade|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2021-08-17T17:08:56.677" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13029" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-17T00:08:47.427" Score="2" ViewCount="4046" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking for a thin 2mm drill bit. When I asked a manufacturer why their thinnest drill bit was 3mm, they said because drill bits are fragile if you make them too thin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that in mind, can you use 2mm drill bits without the risk of them breaking too frequently? Could it be that below a certain diameter bits would snap too easily?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10913" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-08-17T03:55:53.620" LastActivityDate="2021-08-18T06:08:11.060" Title="Are very thin drill bits actually safe?" Tags="|power-tools|drilling|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13029" CreationDate="2021-08-17T01:10:18.580" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If properly used , drill bits do not break. Not that I have not broken many myself; be sure to use glasses. As I told my sons ; &amp;quot;anyone can break a wooden shovel handle , the idea is to make a hole and not break the tool&amp;quot;. Always keep the bit perpendicular to the work, and you need to check from more than one position. Of the many bits I have broken, a shard never hurt me. So I would say they are safe - wear glasses! I happen to have some very small bits 0.012&amp;quot; ( 0.3 mm). Small bits would not be made and sold if they were not used. Today, I expect many very small holes are made with lasers.  And I expect the demand for analogue watches with tiny holes for shafts is all but gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3966" LastActivityDate="2021-08-17T01:10:18.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13029" CreationDate="2021-08-17T02:37:34.950" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most US drill indexes go down to 1/16&amp;quot; (1.5875mm).  It is best to keep the RPM's high and the feed speed low with those and smaller bits.  The use of a drill press is highly recommended.  Most smaller drill bits will be intended for working with metal, but will work fine in wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wear safety glasses (always in the shop), and expect to break a few.  Most industrial supply stores will sell you quantities of one size.  A few years ago I was helping a guy build a model steam engine, and we drilled about 400 #60 (1.016mm) holes in some stainless steel sheeting.  We'd average about 50 holes per drill bit before we broke them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2021-08-17T02:37:34.950" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13029" CreationDate="2021-08-17T06:27:30.757" Score="11" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was looking for a thin 2mm drill bit. When I asked a manufacturer why their thinnest drill bit was 3mm, they said because drill bits are fragile if you make them too thin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me 2mm isn't actually very thin. I commonly drill holes smaller than this and both of the HSS bit sets that I own (bought many years apart) go down to 1.5mm. And twist drills much smaller than this are made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;can you use 2mm drill bits without the risk of them breaking too frequently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will break a few — broken drill bits are inevitable for all users drilling in any material — but you might expect the breaks to be spaced by years if you are careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last time I snapped a drill bit &lt;em&gt;while drilling wood&lt;/em&gt; was about 18 months ago and I'm sure it was more my fault than the bit's (probably leant too much to one side accidentally after the bit was engaged in the material). The break before that was about a year previously; I remember because it was that break that prompted the purchase of a set of multiple bits in various sizes (10 x 1mm-3mm in half-mil increments) one of which was the bit I snapped 18 months back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usage obviously matters&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. As does the diameter and quality of the bit — while cheap bits &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be decent these days, they're rarely the match of quality bits that cost more (sometimes lots more) not just in straight-from-the-box sharpness but also in material&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then of course there's bit type. Do bear in mind that only the lip-and-spur or brad-point type is really a dedicated wood bit. The twist drill design, despite being the most used for smaller holes in wood, is actually designed for drilling metals &lt;em&gt;including mild steel and annealed tool steel&lt;/em&gt;. So to a degree woodworking puts a lot less stress on these bits than the design is intended to withstand, IF you clear the flutes&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; regularly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sharpness is still important even in wood, so resharpening bits that have dulled is important to drilling performance and reduced risk of breakage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What if &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; find you break skinny bits too often?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Although they're very much considered obsolete awls can still be used today. In many contexts in woodworking a starter hole is sufficient, and these can be created using a bradawl or birdcage awl just as in the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where you want a deeper hole than is conveniently made with an awl you can make a rudimentary bit by clipping the head off a nail of suitable diameter. This is an old, old trick that gets repeated in different forms down through the years in various books and magazines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4IRIm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4IRIm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Nail as drill bit&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Various sources: &lt;strong&gt;Popular Science&lt;/strong&gt;, Apr 1919; &lt;strong&gt;Popular Mechanics&lt;/strong&gt;, May 1953; &lt;strong&gt;Popular Science&lt;/strong&gt;, Jan 1960; &lt;strong&gt;American Woodworker&lt;/strong&gt;, Jan-Feb 1993; &lt;strong&gt;Trim Carpentry and Built-ins: Expert Advice from Start to Finish&lt;/strong&gt;, 2002.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use the clipped end as-is to do the drilling, or using a file sharpen it to a chisel tip (like a bradawl) or sharpen the pointed end to a pyramid shape (like a birdcage awl). You'll be surprised at just how well these work, &lt;em&gt;including a much reduced tendency to chip out the entry hole compared to real drill bits&lt;/em&gt;! While this type of 'drill' has no flutes of course and therefore no clearance for swarf you can successfully drill holes even in harder hardwoods with these using power drills as well as hand drills of the 'eggbeater' type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might like to also investigate some older styles of hand drills, including the gimlets (&lt;em&gt;kiri&lt;/em&gt;) used in traditional Japanese woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it be that below a certain diameter these would snap too easily?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although they do make bits much smaller than this the thinnest ones I've actually used myself were 0.2 or 0.3mm. They were very short as you'd expect, and while I did break one or two (over many years, drilling disparate materials including wood, resin and soft metals) they weren't that fragile that you'd constantly worry about a break, although you were of course on the lookout for it and you had to be careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; The species being drilled, whether you're going into side grain or end grain, drill speed and feed rate, any sideways motion on the bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; HSS for example is not one material but a class of alloys, and better grades of HSS are far stronger than lesser grades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Wood swarf can pack tightly into the flutes of drills in a way that metals can't, because hot wood dust will naturally bind together (even in non-resinous woods, because heated lignin is sticky).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-08-17T06:27:30.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3405" CreationDate="2021-08-17T21:12:55.727" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an accessory made by Skil called a &amp;quot;Bit Click&amp;quot; which allows a normal chuck to hold a drill bit, and have a 1/4-inch hex socket bit added quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This combination allows one to drill a pilot hole, click on the end, and drive a screw without using the key to change bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This fitting uses three bearing-balls which are sprung loaded.  The balls lock into the three recesses that a chuck-key uses; without them this adapter is just a big screwdriver handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've even done this change one-handed up a ladder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5LBMC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5LBMC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Skil Bit Click adapter new in box&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only downside is the stackup gets quite long and can be hard to fit into tighter/shorter spaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The modern equivalent might be a drill bit with a 1/4 inch hex, but they're not very robust and tend to be pricy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1573" LastActivityDate="2021-08-17T21:12:55.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13029" CreationDate="2021-08-18T06:08:11.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The claims are ridiculous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In electronics, much smaller holes are drilled in circuit boards, automatically by CNC machines in production.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a set of drill bits for that purpose which includes drills 25 mils (0.025&amp;quot;) and narrower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are used in certain hobbies also, like jewelry making and whatnot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3618" LastActivityDate="2021-08-18T06:08:11.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13035" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-18T06:21:03.677" Score="-1" ViewCount="122" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many situations where a paneled construction would be desired for an exterior use. For example, a well-made door has recessed panels that are mortised together, but obviously if the panels can move in their mortise then there is crack that water can enter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem with a light block. The light block is made from a beveled casing that is mitered together with splines like a picture frame and a panel of wood, about 8&amp;quot; square, is tenoned into the casing. The light fixture mounts through the floating panel. It looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CjaJ9m.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CjaJ9m.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We made a number of these lightblocks and painted them with a heavy duty oil paint. The tops of the blocks are flashed in copper. All of them are fine except one with experiences a lot of moisture because water runs off of the roof in such a way that it washes over the light block in a heavy rain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What apparently happened is that water went into the crack between the casing and the inner panel, the lower rail of the casing got wet, expanded and then cracked out of its miters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One possibility is that the mortise is defective somehow. In other words, the panel mortise is only about 3/8&amp;quot; deep, so theoretically the water could only get into this limited area. However, if the casing was not fitted perfectly, then water could have seeped into the miters themselves, and that might have caused enough absorbtion to produce the split.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One possible approach would be to epoxy or paint the inside of the panel mortises to try to make the slot waterproof before assembling the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note that trying to make the whole thing out of one piece of wood is not feasible due to the size of the light block and other factors.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that I think about it, maybe what should have been done was not to mortise it on the bottom, only on the top and the two sides. The bottom of the panel could then sit on a rabetted drip ledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a standard approach to this problem? (For example, as used on exterior door panels.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2021-08-19T12:57:11.423" Title="How can panels be made waterproof for exterior use?" Tags="|water-protection|panel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13035" CreationDate="2021-08-18T12:39:58.370" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have anything specific to say about your design, other than to offer general recommendations for anything trimmed with wood that has to handle the weather. My bona fides aren't particularly extensive, but I have worked in the trades in my early life, so take what I say with a grain of plaster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Standing fresh water or long terms of damp is what rots out both boats and houses. It sticks to edges and can creep into voids against the pull of gravity. It can freeze and thaw several times a day creating its own voids for eventual egress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water will seek out any void and pool in any flat or concave surface. Even if the other fixtures haven't leaked yet, they will eventually when you get the right weather, or as the finish ages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flashing the top with a drip edge is a good idea, but you have to make sure the flashing doesn't allow water underneath. Drip edges are also where water can creep underneath if the drip edge isn't generous enough. You may have to flash the flashing to be sure we are directing that weather away as much as possible. If you don't want flashing, or it isn't convenient, it used to be common for carpenters to break the edge face of trim with a groove to help break the surface tension of water to allow it to drip and not just follow the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All top surfaces should have a generous angle on them so water doesn't pool. Flat surfaces are just not going to last. The idea is to assume buckets of water will hit your surfaces and you want it to roll off as quickly as possible. The tops of all outdoor fixtures should ideally be like little roofs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To this end, you always assume some water egress, and the key is defence in depth. This usually means you deliberately leave ways for water to flow out at the bottom. Similar to brickwork with slots at the bottom row to let out water that makes it through the brick on the top, many wooden fixtures meant for handling the weather will have ways for water to exit at the lower edges. There should be an easy path for water to find theses exits without pooling or seeking egress deeper into the building structure. If you are serious about it, you will have multiple layers of waterproofing separate from each-other, each with their own way of allowing water to escape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Defence in depth means your example of a traditionally panelled door wouldn't necessarily be exposed to direct weather. This is why storm doors were often necessary, though mostly to protect the finish. The panels are inset into a frame which allows water to roll off, but the seam is fitted so that the wood can swell a bit. That, and the varnish is sufficient for keeping out water. But panelled doors are not, and never will be, waterproof. With help from overhangs, porches, storm doors, and some carpentry design, they can shed reasonable amounts of water. Fixtures placed outside the home in less sheltered areas need different ways of managing weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the absolutely worse waterproofing is the sort that &lt;em&gt;appears&lt;/em&gt; to work, but actually lets water creep inside the structure over years, leading to the sort of damage that results in insurance claims and complete rebuilds. It's better to have that trimmed exterior leak like crazy and rot itself out than silently let water in over years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, wood exposed to the elements will need to be refinished regularly. It may be an unpopular opinion, but even the best and most modern finish will only delay refinishing when exposed to the raw elements. For this reason I'd choose a finish and a design that is easy to refinish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you go the route that has worked for a long time: choose a naturally weather resistant wood and use it as a sort of simple &amp;quot;roofing&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;siding&amp;quot; over your exposed fixtures. This is a specific look that you may not want, but it has so many advantages that it has to be mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-08-19T12:57:11.423" LastActivityDate="2021-08-19T12:57:11.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13037" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-18T12:53:12.447" Score="1" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m building a custom loft bed for my son in my garage. The final assembly is too large to make it up the stairs to his room so I’ll need to disassemble it to get it up there. I’m planning to stain and poly it but I can’t decide if it’s better to finish it as assembled in the garage, finish it while disassembled or finish it once I get it up there. It’s important to note that assembly is done with only screws and no glue so it can be easily relocated when/if we move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10920" LastActivityDate="2021-08-20T16:46:34.120" Title="When to finish modular projects" Tags="|finishing|furniture|assembly|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2021-08-29T15:55:54.117" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13039" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13040" CreationDate="2021-08-20T05:34:11.417" Score="3" ViewCount="481" Body="&lt;p&gt;My riving knife is bent 2.5 mm from the plane of its base. That is, if I put it on a flat surface and pinch it at one end, the other end is flying 2.5 mm in the air instead of laying flat. The direction of the bent is &lt;em&gt;away&lt;/em&gt; from the rip fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/77fU3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/77fU3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am an amateur hobby woodworker and I do not remember the knife suffering any injury. I use the riving knife whenever I can. The fact that it did not cause any problems yet is quite surprising for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read the user's manual of my machine, but they mention only that different saw discs require different riving knives -- radius and thickness. There is no word about the bend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could this be by design, rather than by fault?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rnBCT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rnBCT.png&quot; alt=&quot;From the user's manual of KDR 103&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5579" LastActivityDate="2021-08-20T18:09:39.880" Title="Can a riving knife be slightly bent on purpose?" Tags="|table-saw|rip-cut|riving-knife|kickback|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13039" CreationDate="2021-08-20T07:12:03.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know a riving knife should &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; be dead flat, so that there are no concerns that it is not exactly in line with the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that it did not cause any problems yet is quite surprising for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Me too. I would expect a noticeable tendency for it to try to deflect the workpiece or at least that you'd see increased burning on one side of the cut as it increases rubbing&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. But since a riving knife is intended to be thinner than the kerf left by the blade it's possible this has helped to mask the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to how this might have occurred accidentally it is relatively thin sheet metal that is fixed firmly at one end, just a glancing blow — a slight impact, one gentle enough that you thought nothing about it at the time — could be enough to introduce a bend. I think it's just possible that resting a large, reasonably heavy object on top of it could do it too, such as when manoeuvring a full sheet of plywood into position on top of the saw if you ever remember doing that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What now?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I think the priority should be to contact the saw manufacturer and get their input on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to fix it yourself, you should be able to bend this back to straight by hand, working carefully. This may sound sketchy but bending metal by hand is actually standard workshop practice in many places. Wear protective gloves if you need to, but it's likely this has all edges chamfered or rounded so gloves won't be necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously doing the bending carefully can't be stressed enough, since the last thing you want to do is kink it&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; or end up with it bent in the opposite direction. So I suggest you bend a little, check, bend a little, check, and occasionally unclamp and check whether it lays flat on your TS's bed. Be patient, this may take longer than you expect!&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do the above with the riving knife held in a vice, or clamped to the edge of a workbench; I've unbent metal successfully both ways. If you do have a suitable vice and the bend is localised you might like to investigate what's called three-point bending; generally when I do this I use three long common nails as the bending points (the central 'pin' going on the apex of the bend) but since the riving knife may be mild steel shims of solid wood or plywood are a better idea and should work fine in this situation where you're working with thin metal and only a very slight bend. You can temporarily attach the shims to the vice jaws with masking tape or duct tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; See &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lumberjocks.com/Sarit/blog/114025&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here on Lumberjocks&lt;/a&gt; about that problem, from a different cause, with a SawStop a few years back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; I think kinking it is not likely if you're suitably careful, however, kinked hand-saw blades are regularly straightened by gentle hammering so even in the unlikely event of a kink this should also be fixable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; A few times I've had to fix bends in both plane irons and cap irons (chipbreakers) to get them back to flat, or close enough. In one case it took well over 15 minutes and could have been closer to half an hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-08-20T18:09:39.880" LastActivityDate="2021-08-20T18:09:39.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13037" CreationDate="2021-08-20T16:46:34.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that asking &amp;quot;what should I consider&amp;quot; may draw fewer negative responses, but one never knows what someone else sees as not appropriate.  I personally think your question as is, is a really good use of the forum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my take on when/where to finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, the where should be somewhere that fits the finishing.  I would not apply a finish that has organic degassing inside my house, unless the house were unoccupied (as a new build would likely be).  Open air generally is best; the more, the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second when to finish is a complex question; I think one that does have a definitive answer for a given scenario, but as FreeMan and Graphus point out, you are ultimately the decision maker there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll point out some things I think about answering this for myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;will my finished product get banged up moving to it's final location?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;will expansion/shrinkage expose unfinished portions?  The best ex. here is panel doors that show unfinished tenons around the panel from shrinkage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;will I need to glue or otherwise connect anything, which the finish would cause failure?  (I think you mention, no.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think my bottom line is: choose a plan, but be flexible.  Learn from mistakes, have fun doing it, and appreciate that you may have to touch up or redo some portion before it's all complete.  Finally, stay safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Welcome to the forum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastActivityDate="2021-08-20T16:46:34.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13042" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13044" CreationDate="2021-08-21T10:20:18.703" Score="-2" ViewCount="237" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BAt9T.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BAt9T.png&quot; alt=&quot;thin screw&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;hi - Please guide what this thin screw is for and how it used. I searched a lot but no luck. Not even in product mannual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10931" LastActivityDate="2021-08-27T18:54:49.527" Title="circular saw bevel screw" Tags="|circular-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13042" CreationDate="2021-08-22T12:51:26.153" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; hard to tell exactly what screw you're talking about from that distant and blurry picture. However there are a couple of possibilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You're talking about the large screw with a large knob. This is used to tighten/loosen the screw that holds the sole plate. Loosening this allows the sole plate to pivot, allowing the saw to cut at an angle other than 90°. There is a scale on the curved piece that will, when adjusted properly, show you what angle you're cutting at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There are small screws, 3-5mm in diameter, with a small hex inset near the sole plate tilt mechanism. These are travel stops that are designed to be used once and forgotten about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a known 90° to get the sole adjusted to exactly 90° from the blade and set the 90° stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a known 45° angle to get the sole adjusted to exactly 45° from the blade and set the 45° stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theoretically, these should never have to be adjusted again, but theory rarely matches up with reality. It's good to check blade angle every now and then, especially before making a critical cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Funny, five days later and I've just realized that saw says &amp;quot;Stanley&amp;quot; on the label, not DeWalt so the comments below about DeWalt (and the link to their repair site) don't really apply, the 3rd party part suppliers should both carry parts for them, and the recommendation for finding the official Stanley parts supply is the same as that for finding the DeWalt parts site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you're talking about the screw in your fingers (which I just saw). I'm not sure what that one's for, but you're right, it's probably &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; in the manual because DeWalt tools &lt;em&gt;rarely&lt;/em&gt; come with a loose screw that needs to be installed. (I know, I've got a lot of 'em!). I'd suggest using DeWalt's own &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.toolservicenet.com/dewalt/en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;service/parts website&lt;/a&gt; (which shouldn't take much searching for - go to DeWalt.com, then click on &amp;quot;service&amp;quot; - it'll take you right there), or a third party site like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ereplacementparts.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.ereplacementparts.com/&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.partswarehouse.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.partswarehouse.com/&lt;/a&gt; (both places I've shopped at and gotten good prices &amp;amp; service from - no other affiliation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've picked a site, enter your tool's model number (generally 3 letters, 3 digits, possibly 1 more letter, though other possibilities exist). It will then ask for a &amp;quot;Type&amp;quot;. Both the model &amp;amp; type will be listed on the tool's label. You'll get a parts diagram and parts list - you can search for &amp;quot;bevel screw&amp;quot; (not a term I've heard of, despite having just made repairs to my cordless circular saw) in the parts list, and the numbered drawing will show you &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; where the part goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2021-08-27T18:54:49.527" LastActivityDate="2021-08-27T18:54:49.527" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13046" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13050" CreationDate="2021-08-24T07:28:10.170" Score="2" ViewCount="165" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to make a bunch of shelves in-leu of a bookcase (see picture). Individual shelves will be attached by a small corner bracket to the wall and to two support posts approximately in the middle of each side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is about support of support posts. Posts themselves are 2 glued 1x0.5 inch oak planks. The corner would be a glued lap joint reinforced by a metal corner (1.5 inches, 2 screws on a side) and attached to the studs with another corner. So basically this would form a rectangle with the studs. Shelves (from 1x10 or 1x12 pine, if I manage to get the stuff straight), will attach to both studs and support posts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will such a construction be rigid and hold up a reasonable weight? Is there any way I can reinforce this without visible cross-braces or extending down to the floor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I will just drop the posts down to the floor, judging from the other shelves in the house the load on the shelves will be &amp;quot;pile it on until there is no more space&amp;quot;. Really those posts should be from metal pipes...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hungarian shelves is a great alternative that I'll definitely build elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tRFwM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tRFwM.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2633" LastEditorUserId="2633" LastEditDate="2021-08-25T04:31:32.660" LastActivityDate="2021-08-25T23:38:40.010" Title="Floating (kinda) book shelf support" Tags="|design|strength|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13023" CreationDate="2021-08-24T14:26:42.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see no reason that your bed would not work with the framework built of pine. All over the world, structures from sheds and other outbuildings to whole houses are built with softwoods and to me your component parts do not seem undersized for the intended use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to mixing hardwoods and conifers being ill-advised, I don't know about it. The traditional base for European veneered and marking furniture was pine. Drawers in fine furniture usually had bodies built of softwood with only the front of hardwood, &lt;a href=&quot;https://cdn.popularwoodworking.com/wp-content/uploads/lipped-drawer_5F00_lead2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a system still in use today&lt;/a&gt;. So there is actually a long tradition to do just as you plan to - use hardwood for appearance and softwood for those parts that are not visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastActivityDate="2021-08-24T14:26:42.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13049" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-24T14:45:07.470" Score="0" ViewCount="1002" Body="&lt;p&gt;I applied the stain as per the directions, waited 5 minutes then rubbed it off. It dried overnight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I applied the finish generously, waited 10 minutes, then rubbed it off, waited 24 hours then reapplied.  24 hours later I still an able to rub a little color off on a white cloth.  I tried rubbing with a cloth dampened with mineral spirits, but did not seem to be able to get rid of the color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The piece is a mix of birch veneer plywood and sugar pine.  It seems that the problem is worse on the plywood. It has been a little humid and the temperature is in the 80s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are whether I could expect the situation to improve on its own as more drying/curing happened or whether I have to take active measures? And how long should I have waited after staining?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10943" LastEditorUserId="10942" LastEditDate="2021-08-26T15:19:09.417" LastActivityDate="2021-08-30T11:26:32.963" Title="After two coats of Minwax low luster Antique Oil Finish stain color is still rubbing off" Tags="|finishing|staining|oiling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13046" CreationDate="2021-08-24T19:30:55.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The design, as shown, will likely put way too much torque on the bottom and top joints of your vertical supports. Replace, or reinforce, the short return-to-the-wall piece at the bottom with a triangular piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4DL2T.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4DL2T.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: This answer assumes the horizontal pieces in question are simply fastened to the wall with, say, a long screw through the sheetrock and into the stud. If this is the case the estimated torque, based on the scale shown, from four shelves of books acting between the bottom edge of the short horizontal &amp;quot;return&amp;quot; and the sheetrock would be in the range of 3000 N! This could be eliminated by running these returns into the wall and scabbing them to the studs, probably beyond the scope of the project. But even then there would still be about 300 N acting to bend that member. Making it thicker in the vertical dimension could compensate for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2762" LastEditorUserId="2762" LastEditDate="2021-08-25T19:23:03.273" LastActivityDate="2021-08-25T19:23:03.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13046" CreationDate="2021-08-25T02:59:40.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, so 'bpedit' had a great suggestion (I would only use the design on the right hand side, the left side will have issues with the force transfer, and put undue stress on the fixing {whether glue, screws, nails etc.}).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would note that the question is quite open-ended, so it's pretty hard to answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking a general approach to how the forces are applied is probably the best place to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting with the vertical columns; at the top of the column, you would expect an outward (away from the wall) force, this means the join at this point should cater for that. My suggestion is to have a screw coming from the top, through the horizontal support into the column, this should reduce the likelihood of the column slipping away from the wall at the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the bottom of the column, I would agree with the previous answer by 'bpedit', you need to transfer the force downward, and toward the wall, the easiest way to achieve this is to have a triangular piece. Worth noting that if you know all the weights and angles, you can work out the ideal angle for the triangle piece. Alternatively, you could use a horizontal and vertical piece, however this would not work with your design. Or you could even consider keeping the original design, and perhaps increase the thickness of the bottom horizontal beam in the vertical axis (the torque applied on the bottom beam is the most concerning part).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, the design will be mainly impacted by the design weight of the shelving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Full disclosure, I am not an engineer. However I did complete 3 years of a civil engineering degree, completing all relevant structural components. If you have a decent handle on maths, I would encourage you to just do the calculations to find the forces applied in various areas, and adjust the sizes of wood and design etc. appropriately.&#xA;Alternatively, just do it by intuition, though this may not work for everyone (and certainly won't work when you are looking at complex structures, this structure is not complex though, so should be safe). My main advice, is, think about how the forces would be applied at each area, and then design joins with this in mind. I.e. for the bottom section, you want the column sitting on top of something to transfer the downward force, and something sitting against the column (on the wall side) to also transfer the inward forces, this way the torque applied should be reduced, and the design safer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10944" LastEditorUserId="10942" LastEditDate="2021-08-25T23:38:40.010" LastActivityDate="2021-08-25T23:38:40.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13053" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13054" CreationDate="2021-08-25T18:37:55.860" Score="8" ViewCount="21838" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a Dewalt Model #DWE7491RS table saw and it has a 2-1/2&amp;quot; dust port (2-1/4&amp;quot; inner diameter).  I also have a small size Shop Vac that has a hose with a plastic nozzle at the end that has a 1-1/4&amp;quot; diameter (1&amp;quot; inner diameter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the life of me I cannot figure out how to connect the table saw dust port to my shop vac.  I have looked and looked and looked online and I can't find any adapters that will fit.  I have found some 2-1/2&amp;quot; hard plastic adapters, but they are &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; the same size as the table saw dust port so they don't work.  I either need something a little larger to fit over the table saw dust port or a little smaller to fit inside it.  This is driving me crazy.  I feel like with a popular table saw like the Dewalt this shouldn't be that difficult.  Anyone have any ideas for how I can accomplish this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IEbn3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IEbn3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5473" LastEditorUserId="5473" LastEditDate="2021-08-26T17:14:24.977" LastActivityDate="2022-12-21T00:53:35.373" Title="How to connect dust port from Dewalt table saw to Shop Vac?" Tags="|table-saw|dust-collection|shop-vac|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13053" CreationDate="2021-08-25T23:30:41.607" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would use this type of adapter which you can obtain from any of the big box stores in the shop vac department.  This adapter kit handles 2 1/2, 1 7/8, and 1/1/4 hoses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-Hose-and-Accessory-Adapter-Kit-for-RIDGID-Wet-Dry-Shop-Vacuums-VT1755/202077239&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt; This link for adapter &lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pictures from Home Depot:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SEzQq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SEzQq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gegWj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gegWj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to use the 2 1/2&amp;quot; hose first, you can attach the adapter with this rubber coupling.  If it is a tight fit, just heat the rubber first with a hot air gun.  Do one end at a time, wear gloves&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Picture from Rockler website:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LA1Gk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LA1Gk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8556" LastEditorUserId="8556" LastEditDate="2021-08-27T06:55:01.940" LastActivityDate="2021-08-27T06:55:01.940" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13053" CreationDate="2021-08-26T17:13:53.847" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks to some of the comments I figured out the solution. I was thinking about this wrong! I was looking for a hard plastic adapter that would go right on the dust port of the table saw. After reading the comments I realized what I needed to do was attach a hose to the dust port FIRST, then attach adapters to the hose. Today I bought a universal kit that included 2-1/2&amp;quot; hose and some adapters and it worked perfectly! Thanks so much. I knew I was just not thinking about this the right way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YmxqL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YmxqL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5473" LastActivityDate="2021-08-26T17:13:53.847" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13049" CreationDate="2021-08-26T18:13:13.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have run into this same problem with the product in the past, and almost every time I have, it's been because of high humidity in the garage. Two things have helped:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sanding with a 320-400 grit paper between the coats. This helps knock down the bumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Using a fan during the drying process. I use a heavy duty fan, and it seems to speed up the drying time. Once it's aired out a little, I put it in the basement and it's completely dry within a day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Something else you could consider is putting one coat of oil-based polyurethane or varnish over the top of it. &lt;em&gt;Wood Magazine&lt;/em&gt; recommends trying this in their article reviewing the product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the review I found:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodmagazine.com/review/finishes/clear-finishestopcoats/minwax-antique-oil-finish&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Minwax Antique Oil Finish Review&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10030" LastEditorUserId="10030" LastEditDate="2021-08-30T11:26:32.963" LastActivityDate="2021-08-30T11:26:32.963" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13049" CreationDate="2021-08-30T07:34:55.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Finish takes as long to dry as it takes, which can (far too often IMO) bear little resemblance to the manufacturer's guidelines!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil-based products in particular are notorious for taking &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; longer than the stated time when the humidity is highish and/or the temps are low&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. Also, with pigmented stains&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; some degree of colour rub-off when topcoating is normal — something I feel is very much under-reported in finishing circles — because the stain largely sits on top of the wood's surface rather than being absorbed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just minor friction is enough to notice this, but the situation is worsened by Antique Oil Finish being a blended oil/varnish product, basically similar to &amp;quot;Danish oil&amp;quot;, and like all such things contains 'some' mineral spirits in the formula; naturally a little solvent action is possible when a previous oil product has been used but has not dried enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So anyway, I think you just need to wait longer, assess in a couple days or possibly end of the week. I'd be very surprised if you didn't see a noticeable improvement in rub-off after 3-5 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Confirmation from the OP after roughly 4 days:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rub-off has completely disappeared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Although remember that high humidity at high temps = more water vapour in the air, so high humidity when it's warm can be a much worse issue than on a muggy, but cool, day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Most oil-based stains are largely or wholly pigmented stains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-08-30T07:34:55.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2356" CreationDate="2021-09-01T20:43:53.860" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the identical problem as stated here with&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Tmiller85.&#xA;I am working on my dining room dark walnut colored table.  I used gel stain, and one General Finishes top coat.  After that the 1st top coat completely dried, I scuffed sanded with 0000 steel wool, and after I cleaned it with a tack cloth, there were surface scratches from the steel wool, and blushing, just as was shown in the picture.&#xA;I used HOMAX WHITE RING REMOVER which removed most of the blushing.  After that was completed, I used MOHAWK NO BLUSH PLUS RETARDER to remove most of the remaining blushing.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I am now deciding on what to do about the surface scratches.  It has been suggested that OLD ENGLISH SCRATCH REMOVER will remove surface scratches.  Another option is to use a &amp;quot;spray on&amp;quot; (do not brush on or hand apply)  light coat of a compatible top coat to cover the scratches. Yet another option is to use HOWARD RESTOR-A-FINISH in a color that matches your wood, but if this is used, I cannot use a polyurethene top coat.  I would have to use HOWARD FEED-N-WAX. I could, also, use 220 sand paper and scuff sand, but am afraid to do that, due to what happened when I used the steel wool.&#xA;I hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10963" LastActivityDate="2021-09-01T20:43:53.860" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2837" CreationDate="2021-09-02T19:25:10.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Place the dowel on a flat surface. Place a piece of wood on the flat surface whose thickness is roughly that of the dowel radius. Snug this up to the end of the dowel.  Draw a line on the end of the dowel using the piece as a guide.  Roll the dowel a little.  Mark another line.  Repeat until you have 5 or 6 lines.  The lines should form a little circle (OK, polygon).  Punch the dowel at the eyeballed center of the little circle. (Actually more precise than you would think)  Drill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10968" LastActivityDate="2021-09-02T19:25:10.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11312" CreationDate="2021-09-03T15:02:24.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can you create one?&lt;/strong&gt; Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Will it be effective?&lt;/strong&gt; No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your final receptacle is sealed, dust and air will leak through any small opening in the system because it will be &lt;em&gt;pressurized&lt;/em&gt;. You can observe this happening as the filter in a &amp;quot;regular&amp;quot; dust collection system gets clogged and it's easier for air to escape through small leaks than it is for it to get through the caked filter. That's how you know when it's time to clean/replace the filter/bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if your dust collector has enough oomph to push the dust into a &lt;em&gt;sealed&lt;/em&gt; container, you're going to have a &lt;em&gt;pressurized&lt;/em&gt; container full of saw dust. As soon as you turn off the collector, the pressure in the container will blow at least some of the dust right back out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You put a one-way flap on the container so it can't blow back out when you turn the collector off. At some point, your container will be so full that your dust collector cannot force any more air or dust into it and you're going to have to empty it. Opening that container is going to give you a dust explosion that will make you wish you'd spent the last 6 months beating out filters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll end up cleaning the mess up with your shop-vac and/or dust collector and cleaning filters as necessary anyway. The good news is that since you're in Hawaii and your shop is open, your friends and family will get a good kick out of watching the explosion from a distance. Maybe you'll keep your neighbors as friends if the trade winds are blowing the right direction on explosion day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2021-09-03T15:02:24.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13064" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-03T18:02:46.967" Score="2" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like the title says, I want to get into basic woodworking to build some built-in storage cabinets for one wall in my master bath. I don't have a table saw and all that. Other than a pocket hole jig, what bare minimum tools can I get by with to make it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a corded jigsaw, hand saws, a plastic Black and Decker mitre box that I just used to do some crown molding, cordless drill and impact drivers, corded power planer, corded orbital sander, corded oscillating multi tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can buy a compact circular saw, and can buy a pocket hole jig.  I'm willing to do with some inconvenience regarding not having the perfect tool for each phase of the job, in favor of keeping my tool inventory light and storable in my condo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I grossly missing any tools to get the job done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10972" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-09-03T18:06:45.587" LastActivityDate="2021-09-04T09:37:00.020" Title="Live in Condo, not much room, want to build bathroom cabinets, what few tools can I get by with?" Tags="|cabinetry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13064" CreationDate="2021-09-04T09:37:00.020" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The circular saw is probably the most important tool if you will build with sheet goods, for safety even many makers with table saws use circular saws for the first cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essential tools list:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Circular saw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tracksaw channel or DIY cutting guide + clamps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;large blocks of dense foam (to saw on)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 bar clamp &lt;strong&gt;or&lt;/strong&gt; parallel clamps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 or 2 corner clamps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pocket hole jig &lt;strong&gt;or&lt;/strong&gt; dowel jig&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;drill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;screwdriver with set of replacement tips&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;set of brad-point drill bits&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Forstner bit for mounting cabinet hinges&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;large t-square &lt;strong&gt;or&lt;/strong&gt; speed square&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;measuring tape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not essential but I would also like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;jigsaw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;saw with hardened teeth (&lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; Japanese style)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;set of cheap chisels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;block plane&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1m steel ruler&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;large milled tooth file&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I refer you to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/c/HookedonWood/videos&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;China Tools&lt;/a&gt; series by Hooked on Wood on YouTube for recommendations on many of the above from BangGood including corner clamps, t-square, drill bits and pocket hole jigs .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See cutting on foam using DIY cutting guide &lt;a href=&quot;https://s3.amazonaws.com/media.zinio.ahpc.us/images/woodsmith/2009-10-01/putting-your-circular-saw-to-work/5363066_image_5_45.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastActivityDate="2021-09-04T09:37:00.020" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13067" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-04T15:34:24.410" Score="2" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an unfinished pine bed frame, which is very susceptible to dents and marks. I recently steamed a minor toenail dent out of one of horizontal panels. I did this by dipping a microfibre cloth in a bowl of boiled water, wringing it out, and pressing the steaming cloth into the dent for a few seconds. I then repeated this a few times. This worked well, with just a faint outline of the dent still visible (doesn't show in the photo). However, the area worked on appears to have lost a small amount of colour. At the time, after repeating the cloth treatment I noticed a small amount of brownish colour to the water in the bowl. It's as if the cloth has absorbed some of the colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;steaming dents out of wood&lt;/em&gt; solution seems to be very common on the Internet, but from what I've read, none mention the potential for colour loss. From googling around, it sounds like the colour I've managed to pull out might be from the tannin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not a big deal, as the colour loss is only obvious from an acute angle, but I'm curious, is it likely that the colour will even out over time? E.g. With UV exposure and/or other chemical processes that naturally occur in the wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a photo I took:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HifI9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HifI9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10976" LastActivityDate="2021-09-04T23:24:43.153" Title="Is unfinished pine colour loss due to steaming permanent?" Tags="|wood|wood-repair|pine|natural-wood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13067" CreationDate="2021-09-04T16:02:47.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've simply washed off some of the top layers of oxidized wood, exposing the lighter wood underneath. It'll oxidize over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will it eventually match the oxidization around it? Probably. But since this is a natural product undergoing natural processes over time, who knows?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2021-09-04T16:02:47.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13069" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13074" CreationDate="2021-09-04T17:36:35.757" Score="3" ViewCount="360" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;FYI - I am in the UK&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wanting to do a few upcycling jobs on pieces of furniture that have some interesting compound curves and details (think of beaded panel doors etc). My goal is to paint them a new colour to give a bit of a wow factor, and I know the first job one must do is to sand and scuff the existing paintwork in order to help the new paint/primer adhere to the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, we all know that hand sanding is tedious, time consuming and sometimes painful; &lt;strong&gt;so my question is&lt;/strong&gt; regarding how I can more efficiently do the job of scuffing the surface of my pieces such that I don't spend an exorbitant amount of time doing this tedious process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just FYI - I currently have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.blackanddecker.co.uk/products/power-tools/sanders/120w-next-generation-mouse-sander-with-kitbox-and-9-accessories/ka2500k&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mouse detail sander from Black and Decker&lt;/a&gt;, and a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bosch-diy.com/za/en/p/pex-220-a-0603378000-v8526&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;125mm random orbital sander from Bosch&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help and advise would be much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Research&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having watched many a YouTube video on this process from different creators, it seems that the best solution (at least from the rave reviews) would be the SurfPrep sanding system, with their famous spongy sanding pads (approx 10-15mm thick) being the key to the issue. &lt;strong&gt;However&lt;/strong&gt;, from all of my searching, I can't seem to find a reseller in the UK. Maybe I've not Google'd hard enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible solution - Interface pads&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also looked into &amp;quot;interface pads&amp;quot; and it seems these can be somewhat thicker and spongy for such a purpose and have seen that Mirka make one that is 10mm thick for a 125mm sanding pad, but only a 7mm one for the detail sander; so I'm not entirely sure I would get the same amount of flex as something that SurfPrep would offer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8149" LastEditorUserId="10942" LastEditDate="2021-09-09T10:25:51.907" LastActivityDate="2021-09-09T10:25:51.907" Title="Good methods for scuffing/sanding ready-built furniture with contours for repainting" Tags="|sanding|tool-selection|refinishing|random-orbit-sander|sander|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13067" CreationDate="2021-09-04T23:24:43.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the colour loss is only obvious from an acute angle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to suggest that the colour difference could be due to a change in the surface texture of the wood&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this may be part of it as you noticed some faint brownish colouring in the water obviously something coloured was removed from the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From googling around, it sounds like the colour I've managed to pull out might be from the tannin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Collectively the coloured compounds that arise in the surface of woods as they age are called &lt;em&gt;extractives&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but I'm curious, is it likely that the colour will even out over time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wood will most certainly darken again given time and light exposure. It should end up at least very close to the colour it once was, but whether it will become exactly the former colour, with no 'tide marks', is impossible to say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're fussy the thing to do is to treat the whole surface with hot water now to even up the existing colour so the surface can age again all in a piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The steaming dents out of wood solution seems to be very common on the Internet, but from what I've read, none mention the potential for colour loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is partly because writers just don't tell us every little detail about what happens doing any given technique! This is something you notice more and more as you gain firsthand experience in all sorts of areas and you compare it to written instruction and guides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of this is due to an understandable desire for brevity and ease of reading as extremely meticulous no-detail-left-out accounts tend to be overly wordy and hard to read. And eventually the TL;DR effect kicks in :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it's also because when dents are steamed out of bare wood the standard advice is to follow with light sanding of at least the treated area, if not the whole board, &lt;em&gt;and then the wood is finished&lt;/em&gt;. The finishing step alone will usually do a lot to even up any very subtle colour differences, especially if it adds a unifying colour cast such as you get with varnish and darker shades of shellac.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Even subtle changes in surface can cause a change in apparent colour due to light being absorbed or scattered differently, such as when a small area is sanded more finely or rubbed with steel wool and then compared to the surrounding wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; These are what are responsible for &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C55Tu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this effect&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-09-04T23:24:43.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13069" CreationDate="2021-09-05T13:52:08.867" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no efficiency to be had here. If you want decent results, you will have to hand-sand using a selection of sanding blocks and sponges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it depends on what you want. If you want a rougher &amp;quot;rustic&amp;quot; patina, you can use smaller power sanders with various fixtures and try to get most of the finish, leaving marks and going down to bare wood in other places. Some people like this look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you can hand-sand to get some consistent finish to build from. This is where you get the best results for your time, in my opinion. It creates a surface that provides a good bond for the new finish, and a consistent surface so the finish goes on relatively even.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you can go all the way and use a chemical stripper and remove all the previous finish, and then use hand sanding to get to bare wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2021-09-05T13:52:08.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8182" CreationDate="2021-09-05T22:56:25.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What did woodworkers use other than hide glue before PVA and Epoxy&#xA;became so prevalent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be thinking of casein glue, which is made from milk protein. Casein glues were common in aircraft manufacturing until the start of World War II. This March 2018 &lt;a href=&quot;https://vintagegliderclub.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/Casein-Glue.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;newsletter&lt;/a&gt; from the Vintage Glider's Club has an excellent overview and cites further reference documents. See also this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/engineering/casein-glue&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;summary&lt;/a&gt; from Science Direct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Casein glues are strong and tend to be stable under heat, but they're not fond of long-term humidity. My guess, based on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7465168/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Water-Resistant Casein-Based Adhesives for Veneer Bonding in Biodegradable Ski Cores&lt;/a&gt;, is that riding in the rain would be fine, but you'd want to store the bike where it'll be dry between rides. (Naturally: you wouldn't want the components to rust, either.) Also, if you layer reinforcing fibers on the joints, give the glue plenty of time to dry between layers so you don't trap moisture. And maybe consider a waterproof finish--beeswax, perhaps, to keep everything biodegradable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bad news: I had a hard time finding suppliers of powdered casein glue. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.clarioncasein.co.in/casein-glue.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Clarion Casein&lt;/a&gt; or National Casein (in a listing for &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.chemical-supermarket.com/Casein-8580-Adhesive-p602.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chemical Supermarket&lt;/a&gt;) might be possibilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good news: the Internet abounds with recipes. I can't speak to the strength of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://w00dworking.com/finishes-glues/glues/casein-glue/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;vinegar/baking soda&lt;/a&gt; formulations, but U.S. Dept. of Agriculture's Tech Bulletin No. 205, &lt;a href=&quot;https://naldc.nal.usda.gov/download/CAT86200199/PDF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gluing Wood in Aircraft Manufacture&lt;/a&gt; (1930) includes a couple formulas, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplrn/fplrn158.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Casein Glues: Their Manufacture, Preparation, and Application&lt;/a&gt; (1967) has one, and the plywood ski study above discusses the formulation they tested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I landed here because I was also wondering about biodegradable bike frames. Best of luck to you and everyone else experimenting with this idea!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10982" LastActivityDate="2021-09-05T22:56:25.647" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10316" CreationDate="2021-09-06T04:13:01.180" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you happen to have a piece of plexiglass make a small edge cut with a thin razor knife.  Place the t square on the edge and slide to the razor blade then make a line or scribe a line the 48” length.&#xA;Flip it to the other side registering the same cut line razor blade, scribe or mark a line and simply compare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10983" LastActivityDate="2021-09-06T04:13:01.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13069" CreationDate="2021-09-07T08:44:37.147" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and I know the first job one must do is to sand and scuff the existing paintwork in order to help the new paint/primer adhere to the surface&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually the first job should often be to clean the piece if the goal is to provide the best base for uniform adhesion of the subsequent paint coats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While sanding or other abrasion can remove dirt and surface contamination it's not a reliable way of doing so in certain situations. If the piece has been waxed, or is oily/greasy from use, sometimes you just end up spreading a thin layer of the contaminant over the whole surface as you scuff it. So clean first for safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plain soapy water (at least warm preferably) is enough to do a basic cleaning; you can mix in some alcohol to increase its power if you don't mind the odour. But if you know or suspect there's wax on a piece wiping with white spirit (US: mineral spirits) may be the thing to rely on. Finish maker General Finishes recommend scrubbing with a 50:50 mix of water and denatured alcohol to clean surfaces prior to refinishing or overcoating. It's also very much worth trying some old-school things including sugar soap, but the cheaper and much more widely available washing soda can have the same cleaning power from what I've seen firsthand using both to clean greasy kitchen cabinets. Additionally, both sugar soap and washing soda may dull the finish you're cleaning; more on this below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And now to sanding, or at least abrading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First thing to keep in mind is you're not in any way trying to sand off the previous finish. The very opposite in fact.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't only think &lt;em&gt;sanding&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you can cover a multitude of sins with paint, including various stains and sand-throughs where bare wood has been exposed, to successfully recoat an existing finish&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; all you should be aiming for is to scuff it up just enough to 'key' its surface, to give the next finish something to grip (i.e. form a &lt;em&gt;mechanical bond&lt;/em&gt;). In addition to only needing to sand a little, relatively fine abrasives are all that it is necessary to use. And although you do seek to make the surface uniformly matt you don't need to go crazy; small missed spots and remaining shine in tight recesses aren't a big deal, as long as they're clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The key to adhesion of new finishes to old is &lt;em&gt;clean and matt&lt;/em&gt;, or as sometimes expressed &lt;em&gt;clean and dull&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Bob Flexner put it in one article:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;An old finished or painted surface should be clean and dull for successful recoating. If there is grease or dirt on the surface, or if the surface is glossy, a fresh coat of paint or finish might not bond well. But if an old surface is clean and dull, &lt;strong&gt;any&lt;/strong&gt; new paint or finish should bond fairly well.&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt; My emphasis&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And furthermore, you don't need to just sand, i.e. we're not just talking sandpaper. By sandpaper here I mean all the various sanding products (paper, cloth, films and screens), commercial sanding blocks/sponges and the various sanding pads made for power sanders of various styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, be open to using the two other chief abrasive types: non-woven nylon abrasives (e.g. Scotch-Brite, but don't limit yourself to just that) and steel wool. Steel wool may be old school, but it's a superb conformable abrasive (I would argue personally that it's still the best conformable abrasive&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; ) that still has a valuable contribution to make in finishing and refinishing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For turned legs especially nylon pads or steel wool are a really good alternative to sanding, &lt;em&gt;even power sanding&lt;/em&gt;. For abrading the classic in-and-out profiles of spindle turnings, one of the things demonstrated poorly by SurfPrep in one or more videos, I'd argue you'll do a better &lt;em&gt;and faster&lt;/em&gt; job abrading by hand. The reason is you can wrap the entire outside of the spindle with the abrasive, grip it with your hand and then rotate — effectively you abrade the entire circumference in one go. Since, as already covered, you're only looking to lightly scuff the surface this can be the work of &lt;em&gt;moments per section&lt;/em&gt;; a whole leg might take less than a minute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now last but not least....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In some cases NO sanding or scuffing is required.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As briefly touched on above and as mentioned in various refinishing guides a cleaning process may leave the surface dull. If it's dull enough you may not need to abrade at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bob Flexner has covered this in various articles and in his books, mentioning that both ammonia and TSP (tri-sodium phosphate) in water can dull finishes. So cleaning solutions of sugar soap, washing soda, ammonia and TSP&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt; may sometimes save you the entire scuffing step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Be it shellac, lacquer, varnish or paint, doesn't really matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; This should be borne in mind by anyone who holds to the view that you can't put new poly over old, or can't apply poly on top of other finishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; If it's decent quality and not overly greasy. If you find a brand that holds up to use fine but is a little oilier than you'd like it's not difficult to degrease by soaking in solvent, and the same solvent can be used again and again for this task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt; Note that these are all basic or alkaline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-09-07T08:44:37.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13075" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-08T23:04:17.033" Score="2" ViewCount="959" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was 'gifted' this coffee table from my dumpster-diving father and am currently in the process of refinishing it. It's made of some nice, very hard and heavy wood I'm not familiar with; teak or mahogany if I had to guess. Anyways I'm not sure how to attach the legs in a stable manner. As shown in the pictures, the legs previously extended to the table top and were held on with some pocket screws and angle brackets. Any suggestions to attach them more securely while maintaining the size of the table (i.e. not chopping off the ends of the table)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/og8IY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/og8IY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tvzTD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tvzTD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9030" LastActivityDate="2021-11-14T17:03:07.767" Title="Suggestions to attach these coffee table legs" Tags="|tabletop|stability|installation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13075" CreationDate="2021-09-09T06:21:21.943" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To maintain current size there are few options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The existing system we must guess was good enough when the table was new. Perhaps screws got loose and were not tightened? And the pocket screws appear to be short! Because the legs are so thick these screws could be double previous length I think. Deepen pilot holes if you add longer screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless corner blocks can be made that match compound angles perfectly I think metal brackets are the best option. By using thicker and longer brackets stability would be improved. Maybe doubling up as well? Same type as before but bigger to attach legs to top + another set to screw to stretchers and rails. You must pre-drill for any new screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could pocket screw into the legs through the top. Two screws each side of each leg, so 16 new pocket screws in total. I think this would be strong enough for a coffee table but not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So all options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After repairs use existing system making sure all screws are tight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase size of angle brackets + add more&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pocket screws instead of existing system&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suspenders and belt - pocket screws added to existing system&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. The wood maybe is  merbau. Even if colour was correct I think the table is too new to be teak. And mahogany is very different, not hard and not heavy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastActivityDate="2021-09-09T06:21:21.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13075" CreationDate="2021-09-09T18:06:33.333" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The underlying problem is that the table was built as a tabletop with some legs &amp;quot;stuck on&amp;quot; rather than a solid leg assembly to which a table top was attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could disassemble the tabletop, (in other words, remove the stretchers) and attach the stretchers to the legs using your choice of dowels/dominoes/floating tenons, etc. to build a solid platform. Then properly attach the top to the leg assembly with &amp;quot;figure 8&amp;quot; connectors or Z-brackets or another method that will allow movement between the tabletop and the base of the table. (See: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/908/what-general-considerations-do-i-need-to-take-into-account-for-wood-movement/910#910&quot;&gt;What general considerations do I need to take into account for wood movement?&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Screws and angle brackets can hold nice and tight at first, but will loosen up over time as the wood moves and people interact with the table. Coffee tables can experience more racking and so on than most people realize. People will sit on them eventually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seasonal movement in the top added to the pocket screws loosening up over time. First in one direction, then as a result, in the other direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that, once the legs started to loosen up, someone came along and added the angle brackets to bolster the legs. I doubt it was originally built that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think that process is going to stop with new screws and thicker brackets but it may result in wood splitting, cracking, or the screws just loosening up again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2021-09-10T14:09:23.850" LastActivityDate="2021-09-10T14:09:23.850" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13079" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-09T21:08:51.117" Score="1" ViewCount="172" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got a cabinet saw that has a cast iron bed, as most such saws do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to make a sled for it which requires fitting rails to the guide slots in the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EAqnwm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EAqnwm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One issue I see is that the guide slots are not particularly deep (they are a shallow T-slot style shown above) and they have a somewhat rough surface. If I run my fingers along the side of the slot, there is some roughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my question is whether I should be filing and scraping the slots to try to make them as smooth and straight as possible before fitting the rails, or do most people accept the slots to be a little rough and its not a problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2021-09-10T07:48:01.500" Title="Fitting rails to cast iron cabinet saw" Tags="|table-saw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13079" CreationDate="2021-09-09T21:33:10.880" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;my question is whether I should be filing and scraping the slots to try to make them as smooth and straight as possible before fitting the rails, or do most people accept the slots to be a little rough and its not a problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It really depends on how rough it is. It's pretty normal for miter slots to have a somewhat rough surface, and it's usually not a problem at all. For example, I can feel machine marks on the inside of the slots on my saw, whereas the top has been ground to silky smoothness. Remember that the miter bar that rides in the slot will contact many of those high points all at the same time, and the fact that the surface isn't perfectly smooth can actually reduce the friction because there's less contact between the bar and slot. A rough surface is only a problem if it's so much that it causes the miter bars to wear down, or to not slide smoothly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put the miter gauge in place and run it back and forth a few times. Does it slide smoothly? If yes, don't worry about it and move on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2021-09-09T21:33:10.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13081" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13083" CreationDate="2021-09-09T22:00:41.390" Score="2" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a table saw for Christmas because I have the best wife ever!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I immediately got it set up in the garage and made a few test cuts, then headed back inside to hibernate for the rest of the winter. Like a nimrod, I did &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; immediately wax the surface, so now it's got a few rust spots on it, including some lines from where the fence had been parked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MEvuPm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MEvuPm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;large rust spot with scale for scale&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/07kyem.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/07kyem.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rust lines from the fence&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan is to gently scrub the rusted areas with some 0000 steel wool, then rub in a good automotive paste wax once it's cleaned up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything else I can/should do to remove the rust?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something better (more highly recommended) than an automotive paste wax for future protection?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know you're not supposed to provide answers as updates to the question, but since I closed this as a dupe...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My initial WD-40™ and steel wool didn't seem to do anything but make the table oily, so I went out in search of some supplies. After have a number of people look at me as though I was speaking Greek, I finally found some Naval Jelly and a tin of furniture wax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I spot treated with the naval jelly and it worked great, but left the surface looking horrible. After reviewing the links in the dupe target, plus the &amp;quot;this one&amp;quot; in Graphus' comment, I jellied the whole surface. I worked 1 section at a time and let it soak for about 10 minutes, wiped it off, then rinsed it off with a damp sponge. I did use masking tape to mask off the wings (painted, pressed steel) and the rails (front and rear), just to be on the safe side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I broke out the RO sander and a 220 grit disk. Moving constantly, I sanded each section smooth. It looks factory fresh!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got a bit impatient and didn't let the last section (as defined by the miter slots) sit for a full 10 minutes, and it shows - it's just not quite as evenly colored as the rest, but it's still just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I applied the wax (I couldn't find Johnson's, so I used Minwax) with a shop rag. I buffed it in by tossing the rag on the table top and putting the RO on top of that. (I need to buy a buffer.) I think this 1-lb can of wax will last me a few lifetimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x7fhpm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x7fhpm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shiny new looking saw table - left side&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kSScKm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kSScKm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shiny new looking saw table - right side&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;sup&gt;You can still see some of the marks from the naval jelly on this side. :(&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2021-09-15T23:07:05.327" LastActivityDate="2021-09-15T23:07:05.327" Title="How do I fix rust spots on my table saw table?" Tags="|table-saw|rust|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2021-09-10T11:14:51.017" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13081" CreationDate="2021-09-09T22:12:05.687" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I typically use Scotch Brite pads to knock off surface rust from cast iron surfaces, together with some light cleaner (or being lazy, WD-40). Very fine steel wool will work as well, and even fine grit sandpaper would serve in a pinch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for waxing, I stick to furniture wax, under the assumption that anything one puts on the table saw will be picked up by the wood being worked, and it would be better to use things that are meant for wood (and won't interfere with gluing and finishing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2021-09-09T22:12:05.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13081" CreationDate="2021-09-10T07:01:25.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My preference for removing rust like this is to sand using rubber abrasive blocks, Garryflex. Klingspor make a similar product, Sandflex. They are like rust erasers!&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3v2e4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3v2e4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Garryflex&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I start by local sanding of rust spots using medium grit and when almost all is gone I switch to long strokes over entire area. I usually finish using a fine block working in the same direction. I have lost my cardboard sleeves but if I recall they recommended lubricating using a light oil, but you can use water with detergent added and I find this more effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your saw table looks quite large, although the rust is very minor maybe you would prefer to use your randomorbit sander?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rPeHo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rPeHo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sanding table&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To protect the iron after sanding I used automotive wax before, but I understand that you must ensure it contains no silicon when used on woodworking equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although Ballistol is very popular here for rust prevention now I use paste wax based on comparisons found on the internet because it is cheaper and I use it on my wood projects anyway. I was very doubtful but Wd-40 does very well in these comparisons!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastActivityDate="2021-09-10T07:01:25.477" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13079" CreationDate="2021-09-10T07:48:01.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your rails will be made from wood and if the roughness is enough to hurt your fingers then I would smooth it out a little. It not eventually the slot will wear down the rail and cause a loose fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think you can scrape such a surface so you could do this running a file along each side. If your file does not have a &amp;quot;safe edge&amp;quot; attach tape to one edge, or maybe you can use folded paper as a sled? An option is a DIY sanding stick with sandpaper attached to sides only, leaving edges bare wood. P80 grit one side, P150 grit other side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will widen the slot a very small amount but I don't think this is important even for stock accessories. Metal rails are easy to modify to fix loose fit with hammer and punch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make wooden rail &lt;strong&gt;after&lt;/strong&gt; such work, using new measurement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastActivityDate="2021-09-10T07:48:01.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13075" CreationDate="2021-09-10T15:36:14.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Corner braces like &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B003FHS714&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; are a very common way to attach legs. They're attractive for commercial furniture because they create a strong joint that's easy to assemble and disassemble, so you can ship the table with the legs removed. You can buy commercially-made metal ones like the ones in the picture, or make your own with pieces of wood glued and screwed at a 45° angle between adjacent apron pieces. Either way, the leg is connected to the metal or wood bracket via a threaded rod or hanger bolt driven into the corner of the leg, and the nut on the other side of the bracket lets you pull the leg tight to the apron, creating a strong joint that can be tightened if it gets loose over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go with the metal brackets, you'll need to cut a saw kerf into the inside of the apron. Normally, you'd do that on a table saw while building the table, but you could use an oscillating saw to add that now -- just be careful not to cut too deep and weaken the apron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mPXXl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mPXXl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;metal corner braces&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2021-09-10T15:36:14.613" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13088" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-12T00:45:41.510" Score="1" ViewCount="510" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently own a Central Machinery (Harbor Freight) 9&amp;quot; Benchtop Bandsaw. I would like to upgrade the cooling blocks on it but I am unsure which ones will fit. I tried searching for a central machinery 9&amp;quot; specific cooling block but came up with nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing I would like to somehow upgrade/modify is the table's miter slot. I want to install a rip fence or some type of adjustable guide for straight and angled cuts. I'm under the impression that the ones available for purchase generally fit a T-track. The slot on the bandsaw table is too small to fit anything made for T-tracks. Does anyone have any ideas on how to modify the table?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th style=&quot;text-align: left;&quot;&gt;Bandsaw Specs&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: left;&quot;&gt;Electrical Rating&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;120V~ / 60Hz / 2.5A&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: left;&quot;&gt;Motor No Load Speed&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1725 RPM&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: left;&quot;&gt;Blade Speed&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2460 FPM&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: left;&quot;&gt;Throat Depth&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;9″&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: left;&quot;&gt;Table Pivot (Tilt) Capacity&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;0~45° (Right Tilt Only)&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: left;&quot;&gt;Blade Size&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1/8″ – 1/2″ W x 0.01″ T x 62″ L&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: left;&quot;&gt;Miter Gauge&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;0~60° Left &amp;amp; Right&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: left;&quot;&gt;Miter Slot&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;5/8″ W x 1/4″ D&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: left;&quot;&gt;Base Mounting Holes&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;4 x 3/8″ Diameter&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;" OwnerUserId="11001" LastEditorUserId="11001" LastEditDate="2021-09-12T15:21:49.333" LastActivityDate="2021-09-12T15:21:49.333" Title="Upgrading Central Machinery 9&quot; Bandsaw" Tags="|band-saw|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2021-09-17T04:55:34.753" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3470" CreationDate="2021-09-12T18:59:04.823" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just saw a video where a guy took assorted pieces of wire, (not sure what grade.)  Hammered them flat, used a cordless drill and after starting a small hole with a regular drill bit, started using the wire as a drill bit.  Gotta go slow, careful, let the wire do the work.  Start short, gradually work up in size until you go through.  He did this on a skinny piece of wood and it seems the wire will follow that soft center.  I've never tried this but will find a good piece of wood and get that drying... Be interesting to see if this works. Found this hoping to see if others used this technique, so far all I found was that one video.  So take it with a grain of salt.   Still wire is cheap, might be worth experimenting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11003" LastActivityDate="2021-09-12T18:59:04.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13090" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-13T19:17:07.853" Score="1" ViewCount="159" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm restoring a pine table. The two drawers have old drop down swan neck handles which I want to remove in order to properly sand and then varnish the drawers. I've taken the bolts off the two screws on the inside of the drawer - but I can't unscrew the screws as the handle, which hangs between them both, prevents either screw from turning.  I think I'm missing something obvious but can't work it out! How do you remove a swan neck drawer handle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in hope!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2021-09-20T17:44:28.917" Title="Removal of swan neck drawer handles" Tags="|drawer|handle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6475" CreationDate="2021-09-14T03:35:19.797" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I have two options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have a lot more options than that. A few more:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You’re a student, so see if you can take a class or join a club at school. Schools of all sizes often have shops or maker spaces that you can use, and someone there will make sure you know how to work safely before you’re allowed to use machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Subscribe to Fine Woodworking, Woodsmith, and/or other magazines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Go to the library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Build something.&lt;/strong&gt; Working on a project is surely the best way to really learn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2021-09-14T03:35:19.797" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13093" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13094" CreationDate="2021-09-14T09:25:29.260" Score="0" ViewCount="869" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never worked with HDF before and need to do some panel cutting work, corner radiusing and edge profiling, will ordinary woodworking rotary saw teeth &amp;amp; router blades cut HDF leaving fluffy edges and if so how can I avoid this, e.g. different HDF specialist blades/some other finishing method perhaps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11010" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-09-15T07:31:57.740" LastActivityDate="2021-09-15T07:31:57.740" Title="Does HDF require different circular saw blades and routing bits to cut cleanly?" Tags="|router|carbide|hardboard|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13093" CreationDate="2021-09-14T17:00:30.723" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sheet goods without veneers like HDF and MDF contain a lot of glue. This means you will want to invest in higher quality carbide-tipped tooling. (I'm not even sure I've seen a pure high-speed-steel tool for sale in the usual places, but it is worthwhile stressing that this is a material that will dull HSS tools fast.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for straight cuts, any ATB (alternating top bevel) toothed blades will cut cleaner, but will wear out quicker than TCG (triple-chip grind) toothed blades. But we definitely want a tooth that scores and cuts because these materials tend to want to chip. 40-80 tooth blades will be sufficient, with more teeth perhaps giving you a better edge with diminishing results as you get closer to 80.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any good quality router bit with carbide cutting edges will work fine. A case could be made for triple-flute being better than double-flute, but I've never noticed a difference in most materials (plastics being the exception). Speed-and-feed for router work is the single most important factor for best finish. This is why I'd recommend some practice runs with any new-to-you material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This is also a place where you can experiment with climb-cutting, which can sometimes get you a better finish, though at the expense of a tool that tends to feed itself into the work, which ruins that finish by introducing uneven, wavy cuts. Climb cutting should only be attempted on a CNC machine as it can be very dangerous otherwise - the cutter wants to &amp;quot;grab&amp;quot; the timber and throw it out, or you can even break cutters etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This tooling will make a lot of dust, and so care should be taken to not clog up your equipment or your lungs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorUserId="272" LastEditDate="2021-09-14T22:34:51.637" LastActivityDate="2021-09-14T22:34:51.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13093" CreationDate="2021-09-14T20:50:50.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First be mindful that HDF, like MDF, is a class of material and not &lt;strong&gt;a&lt;/strong&gt; specification, so the product can and does vary. MDF spans a range of densities and HDF does too, with the top of the first category smoothly seguing into the bottom of the second. In short, some HDF is more like MDF than other examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if you adopt any of the numerous standard practice to help achieve clean router results with MDF you'll assuredly get as good or better results in HDF. Of course start with sharp, &lt;em&gt;clean&lt;/em&gt;, carbide-tipped or solid-carbide bits, then select an appropriate router speed for the bit type (style and esp. diameter) and and keep careful control over your feed rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, when routing conventionally use a second &amp;quot;dust pass&amp;quot; and use climb cutting where applicable and where you're comfortable doing so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-09-14T20:50:50.913" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13093" CreationDate="2021-09-14T22:41:10.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carbide or diamond cutters are best, but carbide (and probably even diamond cutters) will still generally leave a &amp;quot;fluffy&amp;quot; edge which requires sanding and sealing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be aware that even with carbide cutters (I do not have experience of diamond cutters so can't comment on those), your blades will dull very quickly. Where I used to work, we would run 45° chamfers along edges of MDF boards using carbide cutters in a spindle moulder (shaper) and it would only take about 20 boards (so about 50 linear meters) until the blades were noticeably dulled, misshapen and close to needing replacement or re-sharpening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may improve the quality of cut by doing a &amp;quot;roughing&amp;quot; pass and a &amp;quot;finishing&amp;quot; pass, if this is possible with the kind of machining you'll be doing. That is, cut/rout/chamfer it slightly oversize in your first pass, and then do a second &amp;quot;finishing&amp;quot; cut where you come in and remove the remaining milimeter or so. This will likely cause more wear on your tools though, since you're effectively running each cut twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2021-09-14T22:41:10.433" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3232" CreationDate="2021-09-14T23:17:24.557" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The theoretical predictions for equilibrium MC are approximations from empirical research done in the 40s. All well and good and they predict the MC of wood when left long enough at the stated temperature and humidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is long enough? As a few have alluded to it takes significant time in a kiln or in the open air for drying to occur. One will never achieve 8% MC in an air-dried situation unless you are in the Arizona desert in winter with a heating source. In practice low humidity and high temperature are difficult and costly in energy to achieve so kiln drying time is somewhat dictated by economics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nonetheless the times to kiln dry are dominated by the safe rates that wood can be expected to give up their waters, which is dependent on species and thickness. Using the kiln-drying paradigm to gain a time estimate to achieve equilibrium is not advised. The rate at which air drying occurs is perhaps a little closer to providing a model of time to equilibrium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one assumes that the free water has been removed and the wood is somewhere above desiccated (0% MC) and below the fiber saturation point (~30% MC), then MC is dictated by thermodynamics with the main factors being relative humidity and temperature. These are generally not independent but if it is assumed that they can be set independently then an increase in temperature with a fixed RH will cause the process to move faster than at a lower temperature. In addition, the same can be said for a greater change in RH for a fixed temperature. If it can be further assumed that the rate due to temperature differential and the rate due to RH differential have a proportional effect on the drying rate, then it can be shown that the response to a step change in either or both will result in a first order rate change in equilibrium MC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus a single time constant representing the time it takes for the equilibrium MC to reach 63% of its final value is enough to characterize the wood's rate of change in MC. To my knowledge there is not a study that deals with the time constants of wood species or thicknesses to MC changes but if there is I would not be surprised to see time constants on the order of 5-10 days. Given it takes about 5 time constants to reach 99% of the final MC value, this would indicate 25 to 50 days. In this time the temperature and RH will have changed significantly in both directions so the EMC will never be reached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus the MC of wood will always be chasing the environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lesson here is small(large) changes in environmental conditions mean small(large) changes in EMC, which mean small(large) dimensional changes in tangential and radial directions. Air drying takes so long because the drying process is significantly delayed by temperature, RH, and air flow limitations. As to the wisdom of letting timbers equilibrate to the shop …. It is true that lumber dimensionalized can (and will) show dimensional changes the day after milling but probably not to EMC but rather to the internal wood stresses equalizing after removing material the day before. That is why milling to thicker and wider than needed is prudent so that after the wood has settled (1 day) what remains can be dimensioned.  Also, construction techniques that allow for the dimensional changes due to the EMC changes are always recommended and these changes are seasonal (on the order of 90-180 days).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Averaging the outdoor temperatures and RH for each month in your local area and computing the theoretical EMC will reveal that there is an average probably greater than the 8% that was produced at kiln drying with a small deviation of maybe +/- 1.5%. For a Kansan that's 12.3% +/- 1.3% from Sept 2002 to Sept 2021.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same will be true for indoor conditions as well, but with a different mean and deviation. EMC fluctuations indoors are greater than outdoors because forced-draft heating will dry the air and EMC is much more sensitive to RH than to temperature. For instance in the Summer with AC indoor temperature/RH of 70/50 will bring an EMC of 9% but in the Winter a 70/30 will bring an EMC of 6% even though the same wood outside never sees below 11%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11012" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-09-15T07:18:52.440" LastActivityDate="2021-09-15T07:18:52.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13098" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13100" CreationDate="2021-09-16T15:55:54.350" Score="4" ViewCount="193" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a question about routing MDF &amp;amp; HDF, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/13095/93&quot;&gt;an answer&lt;/a&gt; suggested:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;when routing conventionally use a second &amp;quot;dust pass&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is a &amp;quot;dust pass&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2021-09-17T07:11:03.440" Title="What is a &quot;dust pass&quot;?" Tags="|router|terminology|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13099" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13106" CreationDate="2021-09-16T20:37:13.857" Score="2" ViewCount="584" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now that I've got the &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/13081/how-do-i-fix-rust-spots-on-my-table-saw-table&quot;&gt;rust on my table saw&lt;/a&gt; taken care of, I realized that my 25 year old miter saw base could use a little love.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kPS2r.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kPS2r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Poor, unloved miter saw base with oxidation&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The majority of the saw is made out of cast(?) aluminum, so it hasn't &amp;quot;rusted&amp;quot;, but it does have an uneven coating of oxidation on it, and it's got some fairly noticeable machining marks on it (from new), with the darkest of the oxidation seeming to be in the deeper grooves from the machining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I used naval jelly to clean the cast iron table saw, I don't believe that's appropriate for cleaning aluminum. (And, I don't want to chance it taking the lettering off the miter gauge, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I gave it a quick pass with the RO sander with 220 grit paper (straight off of duty cleaning up the table saw), but that didn't seem to help much. I don't want to sand it too much, as I believe the aluminum would be much softer than the iron, and I can see where it would be &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; easier to end up with an uneven surface if I'm not careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What chemical or mechanical methods would be appropriate for cleaning oxidized aluminum surfaces while providing minimum risk for damage?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, I realize the answer may just be &amp;quot;leave it the heck alone and use it more&amp;quot;, but after seeing how (relatively) easy it was to spiff up the table saw, I'm motivated to get this looking shiny and new again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2021-09-20T17:32:37.813" Title="How do I clean aluminum tool tables?" Tags="|miter-saw|restoration|clean-up|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13098" CreationDate="2021-09-17T07:11:03.440" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &amp;quot;dust pass&amp;quot; is a second (or last) machining pass that removes just a tiny amount of material — sometimes literally producing only dust as the name suggests — to improve surface finish and/or remove burn marks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a router context I believe it's most commonly utilised for improving edges when pattern routing and when using a fence, either the fence on a router table or one attached to the router itself. But it can also be done to improve the bottom of a cut, or the surface left after &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4775/flattening-the-face-of-a-board-without-using-a-jointer/4783#4783&quot;&gt;router planing&lt;/a&gt; as the following tip mentions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LqHQl.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LqHQl.png&quot; alt=&quot;Flawless-surface tip&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Tip #5 from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/joinery/fuss-free-router-bit-setup&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;14 Fuss-free router-bit setup&lt;/a&gt; on Wood Magazine's site.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should probably be done more in routing since it can dramatically reduce the need for sanding, and on occasion may even prevent it entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's on the table saw&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; where this process is used more widely, where it is sometimes referred to a &amp;quot;skim cut&amp;quot; but more commonly a &amp;quot;dust cut&amp;quot;. Despite it being more common I only became aware of its use in a table saw context relatively recently; I've been unable to locate the reference, so I suspect it may have been mentioned in passing in a video on YouTube (likely during an episode of Shop Talk Live from Fine Woodworking).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This basic principle is quite widely used in woodworking, very light cuts (and occasionally a succession of them&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;) being used to give the best surface possible&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;. Here's a reference to the same idea on a thickness planer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Set the depth of cut for a 1⁄64 &amp;quot;-or-less “skimming cut” on the final pass for the same reason [to get a smoother surface]&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodmagazine.com/no-fail-routines-for-jointing-and-planing&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;No-fail Routines for Jointing and Planing&lt;/a&gt; on Wood Magazine's site. &lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Although presumably will work equally well on other rotary saws. But bear in mind this is only important if no other process will be used to finalise the sawn surface, such as planing to final length in a shooting board or running a cut edge over the jointer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Q.v. the related &lt;em&gt;incremental routing&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Not unlike the final wispy shavings taken by a smoothing plane, or the even finer and wispier shavings taken by a scraper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-09-17T07:11:03.440" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13102" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-18T16:12:37.030" Score="3" ViewCount="1515" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in the process of building a dining table out of solid walnut. I don't have the skills or equipment to make the tabletop myself, so I got my wood supplier to do it for me. The tabletop is 6/4 walnut, 7' long by 40&amp;quot; wide, and is made up of 6 smaller boards glued together. The shop is reputable and seems to know what they are doing. I received it about a month ago, and since then, it's been standing behind my living room couch leaning against the wall (long side on the floor). It was leaning at maybe a 10 degree angle, with the underside of the piece facing away from the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways, now that I've completed the base, I'm paying attention to the tabletop, and I notice that there is some significant cupping. The concave side (the underside) goes in about 3/16&amp;quot; in the middle down from the edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I didn't check for cupping when I initially received the piece, so I'm not sure if it came like this or if I caused it myself somehow. Regardless, the damage is done, so what are my options now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen some articles/videos where they dampen the concave side of a cupped board and let it sit overnight to straighten it out, but will that work on my 6/4 tabletop? I tried applying this technique  yesterday evening, but this morning I don't measure any difference in the amount of cupping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I don't have a table saw, thickness planer, or jointer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2909" LastEditorUserId="2909" LastEditDate="2021-09-18T16:23:42.643" LastActivityDate="2021-09-20T12:54:01.280" Title="What to do about cupped table top" Tags="|tabletop|table-making|warp|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13102" CreationDate="2021-09-19T19:59:36.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3/16” over the length and width of the table isn’t much; if you put the top on the base and leave it unattached, it might flatten out on its own after a week or two. You could encourage it by putting something heavy, like a box of books (or two) in the middle. Whether that helps or not, you can probably also pull it flat with a screw or two through the middle of the base into the bottom of the tabletop. Depending on your design, that might mean that you have to add a piece to the base across the middle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2021-09-19T19:59:36.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13102" CreationDate="2021-09-20T12:54:01.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple reasons for cupping like this.  The first is assembly if you don't pay attention to the glue up job or don't actually make your joints square, you can get this, sometimes with rather exaggerated bends.  It doesn't really sound like that is the case here, and I would certainly hope that a professional shop with any reputation wouldn't screw up like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next is some boards have a lot of 'spring' in them and will 'bend' when pressure is released, some times even after cutting and squaring it, I generally see this the length of the board, and I've had Hickory give me some major headaches (but that comes with milling your own logs...)  but once again, a professional shop generally uses fairly high quality lumber and it's usually the wood with sap wood and/or flat sawn that does a lot of cupping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the other much more likely culprit.  Moisture if you had it against the wall near an air vent or under an open window or where it got a lot of sun throughout the day, there is a good chance that one side dried out faster than the other, with 6/4 lumber it's pretty easy to have uneven moisture content to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;'Fixing' this might be as simple as Caleb stated, putting it on your base and waiting a little bit for the moisture to restablize, it might take near the same amount of time as it did to cup in the first place.  Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2021-09-20T12:54:01.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13099" CreationDate="2021-09-20T17:32:37.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe try &lt;a href=&quot;https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=aluminum%20polish&amp;amp;ref=nb_sb_noss_1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;automotive/marine aluminum polish&lt;/a&gt; like used on aluminum wheels and so forth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, maybe something like this &lt;a href=&quot;https://smile.amazon.com/Aluminum-Cleaner-Brightener-Restorer-1-gallon/dp/B01M5CNZYU/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Aluminum Cleaner/Brightener/Restorer&lt;/a&gt; which seems to be a non-abrasive approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Caveat: I have no first-hand experience using these products on miter saw tables (I'm good with it as it is) but have used the polishing compound on wheels over the years and they do a good job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastActivityDate="2021-09-20T17:32:37.813" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13090" CreationDate="2021-09-20T17:44:28.917" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems that the handles are stuck to the finish on the front of the drawers.&#xA;They could have been installed before the finish cured or just the force from being tightly attached has somewhat bonded the pulls to the finished surface of the drawer fronts. Years of furniture polish and residue, etc. could play a part in this too, I'd imagine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might need to &lt;strong&gt;tap the bolts toward the front of the drawer to get the hardware to release from the finish&lt;/strong&gt; or pry on the pulls a little bit to separate them from the drawer fronts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastActivityDate="2021-09-20T17:44:28.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13108" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13110" CreationDate="2021-09-21T16:49:15.930" Score="1" ViewCount="1313" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 10” Craftsman radial arm saw that serves most of my shop cutting needs. However, occasionally I need to cut through material that is just a bit thicker than what can fit under the blade. While in most cases rotating the material and making multiple cuts works, there are some cases where this isn’t possible (say, the material is only flat on one side).  In these cases, could I mount a 12” blade on the saw to get a deeper cut depth?  Obviously the existing blade guard wouldn’t cover the larger blade and a naked rotating blade would be extremely dangerous, but assuming I made a special guard specifically for the oversized blade, are there other considerations (safety or otherwise) that would prevent this arrangement from working?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8864" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2021-09-21T17:25:18.143" LastActivityDate="2021-09-22T18:28:26.513" Title="Can I use an oversized blade on a radial arm saw?" Tags="|safety|saw-blade|tool-modification|radial-arm-saw|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13109" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13630" CreationDate="2021-09-21T17:34:45.917" Score="3" ViewCount="353" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some smallish sections of a tree trunk that I would like to break down, but they are too big for the power tools that I own, other than my chainsaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My biggest concern with the chainsaw is that it would leave bar oil behind on the wood. Would this create a problem for the jointer or planer afterwards, or would it soak into the wood and create problems when it is time for finishing? If so, should I clean it off somehow first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if I cut one of them into rounds, would it make a difference with the oil soaking into the end grain vs face grain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9140" LastActivityDate="2022-02-28T14:56:05.387" Title="Does the bar oil from using a chainsaw create problems for woodworking?" Tags="|milling|surface-preparation|clean-up|chain-saw|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13108" CreationDate="2021-09-21T17:40:38.147" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bigger blade will have more mass than the motor is designed to spin. This &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; cause issues for the motor, potentially burning it out. This is part of the reason that dado blade sets come in 8&amp;quot; size designed for use in a 10&amp;quot; table saw - you're adding multiple blades where only one normally goes, so by making the blade smaller, you're reducing mass, making it easier for the motor to spin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're cutting a softwood like pine, you'd &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be OK, but harder woods that the saw may struggle to cut in the first place would definitely be out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt;: I say &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be OK, because I don't know for certain. I would use &lt;em&gt;extreme&lt;/em&gt; caution&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;em&gt;if&lt;/em&gt; I were to attempt this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt;Note that &quot;extreme caution&quot; means I'd mention it to my wife and she would beat me senseless if I attempted it. ;)&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2021-09-21T18:19:38.230" LastActivityDate="2021-09-21T18:19:38.230" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13109" CreationDate="2021-09-21T17:46:50.837" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Odds are that your chainsaw cuts aren't going to be super smooth, so you'll end up sizing them with other tools. I cannot imagine that a bit of oil would cause any issue for a planer or jointer knife. On the face grain, the planing/jointing would likely remove any oily bits, and cutting the pieces to length (circular, miter, table or hand saw) would likely remove any of the end grain that had soaked up oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good test would be to cut a test round, the apply your finish directly to the rough cut and see what happens. That will tell you if the saw is leaving enough oil behind to impact your chosen finish, and if so, how much sanding you'll have to do to get past that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2021-09-21T17:46:50.837" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13108" CreationDate="2021-09-21T17:49:50.573" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously this is questionably safe, even if you can actually fit a 12&amp;quot; blade to your 10&amp;quot; radial-arm saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While in most cases rotating the material and making multiple cuts works, there are some cases where this isn’t possible (say, the material is only flat on one side).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a very simple and safe solution that should work for any situation you might face: complete the cut using a hand saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any situation in which you can cut through a decent portion of the thickness, or better yet cut around an item one side at a time leaving just a central stub of wood, you're well positioned to finish the cut by hand as the kerf formed by a circular blade makes a very good channel for the panel saw to follow without error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't currently own a panel saw, modern ones are very inexpensive and because of the impulse-hardened teeth they stay sharp for a very long time so they're great value. Additionally such a saw has numerous other potential uses in a modern woodworking shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-09-21T17:49:50.573" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13108" CreationDate="2021-09-22T18:28:26.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Really no, it's a deadly proposition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When these blades turn, the centrifugal force tries to tear them apart, so they have a maximum RPM rating which is usually written on the side. Larger diameter means lower RPM. However if you mount the larger blade on your saw, it will spin at the rpm of the motor designed for the smaller one, which means it will spin faster than intended. Best case, the carbide teeth hit the wood at a faster speed than intended, so they could get damaged. Worst case, the blade splits from centrifugal force, and since you removed the guard, you end up with a chunk of circular saw blade embedded in your face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be a good excuse to get a bandsaw though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11031" LastActivityDate="2021-09-22T18:28:26.513" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13116" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13119" CreationDate="2021-09-23T10:14:06.463" Score="1" ViewCount="164" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vrb20.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vrb20.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;This is called a Beam Drill in the USA, but I would like to know the terminology for this in British English. I'm trying to find one locally to me (on ebay) in the UK and failing completely...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is what other names are these known by?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5498" LastActivityDate="2021-09-24T14:15:16.037" Title="Terminology for beam drill?" Tags="|hand-tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1503" CreationDate="2021-09-24T08:44:31.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;years later....well now you can !!&#xA;I have a stack of L-Boxx's...just purchased &amp;quot;Englebert Strauss&amp;quot; (systainer)system boxes plus an adapter plate. The only down side is that the new Systainer boxes via the adapter plate are on the bottom of the older L-boxx stack. However, the plate is compatible with Tstak, Macpac,systainer,L-boxx...which is nice. (would have been better to have a plate ontop of the old boxes to accommodate the new systainers but hey ho...a step in the right direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11040" LastActivityDate="2021-09-24T08:44:31.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13116" CreationDate="2021-09-24T14:15:16.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are also known by &amp;quot;beam boring machine&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;beam auger&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastActivityDate="2021-09-24T14:15:16.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13122" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-25T22:29:02.250" Score="1" ViewCount="406" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my new table I am making I forgot to put lacquer on to stop the epoxy from soaking in, can I go back and add the lacquer then add the epoxy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11049" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-09-26T00:17:13.697" LastActivityDate="2021-09-26T22:08:14.987" Title="Epoxy has just soaked into my project, can I put lacquer on to stop that then when it dries can I put epoxy on again?" Tags="|epoxy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13122" CreationDate="2021-09-26T22:08:14.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A layer of cured epoxy will stop epoxy from soaking into the wood at least as well as lacquer will. Skip the lacquer and just do another layer of epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2021-09-26T22:08:14.987" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13124" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13125" CreationDate="2021-09-26T23:02:41.867" Score="2" ViewCount="547" Body="&lt;p&gt;When selecting a guide bushing from my newly purchased set, how do I determine which one to use for any given router bit &lt;em&gt;when I'm following a template&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I want the tightest tolerance possible?&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If so, how tight is &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; tight?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For example, can/should I use a 17/32&amp;quot; ID bushing for a 1/2&amp;quot; (16/32&amp;quot;) bit, leaving 1/32&amp;quot; clearance?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Or, should I go to the next larger size 21/32&amp;quot; ID, leaving 4/32&amp;quot; clearance?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I'm using a dovetail bit, how do I determine what's the right size? Does the bushing just need to clear the shank of the bit?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NB: I left a very important part of the question out after doing massive editing prior to its original asking. This edit partially invalidates Caleb's answer, but there's enough of his answer to still make it worthwhile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2021-09-27T15:58:43.327" LastActivityDate="2021-09-27T15:58:43.327" Title="What guidelines should I follow for selecting a bushing for my router bit?" Tags="|router|router-bit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13124" CreationDate="2021-09-27T15:30:33.567" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;how do I determine which one to use for any given router bit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't need a bushing at all unless you're using some sort of template to guide the cut. When you do use one, &lt;em&gt;choose the size of the bushing according to the offset you want between the template and the cutter&lt;/em&gt;. Your choice will therefore depend on the template or jig that's guiding the router, and the result you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I want the tightest tolerance possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, not necessarily. Again, the bushing determines the offset from the template. It would be entirely reasonable to use a 1/4&amp;quot; bit with a 1&amp;quot; OD bushing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some cases, the bushing might actually be smaller than the cutter diameter; that's very common with some dovetail jigs, e.g. the Leigh jig. Obviously, you can't use a bit larger than the bushing's inside diameter if you need to make a plunge cut. And if you want zero offset between template and cutter, you're usually better off using a bit with a bearing, like a pattern bit or flush cut bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm using a dovetail bit, how do I determine what's the right size? Does the bushing just need to clear the shank of the bit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're using a dovetail bit with a jig to cut dovetails, the manual for the jig should tell you what size bushing to use for a given bit. Different jigs have different capabilities: some only do half-blind dovetails, some do through dovetails with fixed spacing, some can do through dovetails with variable spacing. At least until you really get comfortable with whatever jig you're using, it's best to stick to the combinations recommended in the manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2021-09-27T15:30:33.567" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13126" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13129" CreationDate="2021-09-27T15:37:44.653" Score="1" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old table that I'm working on. I initially was just taking off the wobbly feet and putting them back on more firmly. But I was wondering if there's a good way to fix up the scratches. There's a top surface which looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JSCFD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JSCFD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;top surface&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then legs that look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kphjg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kphjg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;legs&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what kind of coating was applied originally. For the top, it would be somewhat feasible to sand it down and start again. But I'd rather not because there are lots of matching fiddly bits around the side and on the legs (as you can see) that would not be easy to sand and recoat and so would likely end up not matching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess my ideal would be to touch it up somehow. But I'm interested in any opinions and thoughts on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5783" LastActivityDate="2021-09-28T18:11:32.390" Title="Restoring old furniture finish" Tags="|finishing|restoration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13127" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-27T16:57:29.823" Score="2" ViewCount="853" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to create long - about 12&amp;quot; or longer and about 1.5&amp;quot; or greater in diameter - holes in some logs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a lot of info online about how to create short holes that are wide, but not long holes that are wide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What options there are for me to create long tunnels in logs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11053" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2021-09-28T11:18:21.473" LastActivityDate="2021-09-28T14:56:02.133" Title="Options for drilling 12&quot; long x 1.5&quot; diameter holes through logs" Tags="|wood|tools|holes|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13127" CreationDate="2021-09-27T19:23:20.253" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please advise as to what options there are for me to buy as tools to create long tunnels in logs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need a long drill bit in whatever diameter you want. You can buy auger bits that are 1 1/2&amp;quot; in diameter and more than 12&amp;quot; long, so that's an option. However, auger bits are essentially long metal spirals, and they tend to be a) expensive and b) easy to break. So a better option might be a shorter, cheaper auger bit and an auger extension. The extension is just a straight rod with an appropriate connector at the end, and it effectively adds length to the shaft of the bit rather than the spiral section. A long auger bit can easily cost $50 and is likely to break; a short auger might cost more in the $10 neighborhood, with an extension costing $10 or $20.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The down side to using an extension rather than a long auger is that without the long spiral section, you may need to clear the chips from the hole more often. In practice, that just means pulling the bit out of the hole and re-inserting from time to time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use other types of bits, of course. A spade bit with an extension would also work. Spade bits tend to be cheap, but also slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2021-09-27T19:23:20.253" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13126" CreationDate="2021-09-28T06:11:47.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if there's a good way to fix up the scratches&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A simple way to touch up scratched finish is with scratch cover products. I have never used one, but I think you will get a good visual result on the scratches from the images I have seen showing 'before and after':&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aL6ws.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aL6ws.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I won't link to specific product as this one remains oily, but all give similar results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The watermarks I think will remain and have to be dealt with on their own, for many tips see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2392/how-do-i-remove-a-watermark&quot;&gt;How do I remove a watermark?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what kind of coating was applied originally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top veneer is walnut but the legs seem like pale wood with dark finish. Unless the table is antique and has never been refinished it is colored lacquer or varnish 100%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe you could touch up the legs by small brush or sponge using a similar product? Gel stain in walnut/dark walnut tone may give the right result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. Gel stain can also be used as scratch cover because more remains in scratches after the surface is wiped off, so maybe you can do the entire table with one can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-09-28T18:11:32.390" LastActivityDate="2021-09-28T18:11:32.390" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13127" CreationDate="2021-09-28T14:45:49.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a look at what wooden shipbuilders do for long (longer than 12 inches) holes in timbers that have to be somewhat accurate. An example would be a tunnel for a prop shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't say if you need to make through-holes, or auger to a specific depth. Modify these instructions to suit for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key is to drill the hole more than once. Use a long, thinner bit, like 1/4inch or so, and setup plumbs or other references (such as lines along the length of the piece) to keep things true. Drill a pilot hole all the way through (or to the correct depth). It may help to have an assistant watching you to make sure you are true in multiple axes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will have to clear the chips often, and you may have to switch to using an extension at some point. Stop often and make sure you are running true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the pilot hole ends up in the right position at the other end (or depth), then you have a hole that one or more auger bits in increasing size will just follow. Some boat builders grind the threads off the point of the auger bit (if your auger has one) so the auger literally just falls into the pilot hole instead of trying to pull itself in. Clear chips often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These bits come in very long lengths, or can be used with extensions. Since you will be clearing chips by hand very often there is no use using bits with flutes along the entire length. What we want is a carefully drilled pilot hole that you then auger out to specific diameter by following the pilot hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-09-28T14:56:02.133" LastActivityDate="2021-09-28T14:56:02.133" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13013" CreationDate="2021-09-28T18:37:02.300" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I safely and reliably change the collet of the router to accept a 6.35mm tool without compromising safety?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Probably.&lt;/strong&gt; It would help to know what router you're working with, but we can at least say that routers from all major brands use removable collets so that you swap the collet to use different bit sizes. That may not be true for very small routers, like &amp;quot;palm&amp;quot; routers and laminate trimmers, but if your router has a 1 hp motor or larger, it almost certainly has a removable collet. Check with your router's manufacturer to see if they offer a 6 mm collet for your router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the manufacturer doesn't make a 6 mm collet for your router, there are several 3rd parties that manufacture collets in a variety of sizes for major-brand routers. One of those is &lt;a href=&quot;https://elairecorp.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Elaire Corporation&lt;/a&gt;. I've never used their products, so can't vouch for them, but they have many sizes available. There are also collet reducers available to let you adapt, say, a 1/2&amp;quot; collet to a 6 mm bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason that you want a collet that fits your router bit exactly has to do with the way collets work. Take yours out and look at it: it's basically a tapered cylinder with a hole bored through the center and several slits cut vertically. When the collet nut is tightened, it pushes the collet into a taper, squeezing the sides of the collet around the bit's shaft. If the radius of the shaft matches the radius of the hole in the collet, the inside surface will match the curve of the shaft, and there will be lots of friction between those surfaces to hold the bit. If the radii of the hole and shaft are different, the collet will touch the shaft only in a few places and there will be much less friction holding the bit in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2021-09-28T18:37:02.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13132" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-28T22:38:25.753" Score="-1" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using only hand tools, I made a groove for a wedge and the wedge does not fit tight and perfect. How do I highlight where the exact point is that needs to be reworked? I've seen someone using carbon paper or some other compound but that cannot work with a wedge. In another words how do you mark gaps, to highlight tolerances and so on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another example, I have a curved piece of wood and I want to make another piece of wood fit to the curve perfectly. Again how to highlight any gap or wood excess? I know I can use light but there are certain cases where you cannot use light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11056" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-09-29T07:50:46.163" LastActivityDate="2021-11-23T16:10:02.250" Title="How to highlight imprecisions?" Tags="|wood|technique|hand-tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13133" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13151" CreationDate="2021-10-01T05:38:16.753" Score="-1" ViewCount="357" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; I have a wooden door that's:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Made by &lt;em&gt;whitewood&lt;/em&gt; that's covered by a plywood.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The plywood has &lt;em&gt;white ash&lt;/em&gt; veneer pressed on it from the plywood factory.  It's a 4mm thick plywood that's manufactured pre-pressed with &lt;em&gt;white ash&lt;/em&gt; veneer atop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;em&gt;white ash&lt;/em&gt; veneer layer on the plywood is already stained and sealed with protective coatings for outdoor use.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The door's frame is made of some white wood that's stained similarly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is exterior door subject to humidity, UV, rain, wind, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Problem.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; The stain that was used on the pressed &lt;em&gt;white ash&lt;/em&gt; veneer is too dark, which makes the natural wood's grains of the veneer layer invisible.  Effectively the door looks no different than, say, a plastic or metal door, which is defeating the design purpose of the door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Goal.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; Make the door look like as if the stain that was used was a very light brown one, similar to the &lt;em&gt;butternut&lt;/em&gt; wood photo below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MNOPr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MNOPr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Options that I guessed so far.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use stain remover, and chip a thin layer of wood, then apply a new stain.  But I doubt that the pressed veneer is thick enough to allow for any thinning.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bring a thin &lt;em&gt;butternut&lt;/em&gt; veneer and press it on the door and the frame.  Two ways to do it:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove old plywood-with-pressed-ashwood, then press the new butternut veneer.  But I'm not sure how easy it is to remove the pressed plywood (glued onto the door frame).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press the new butternut veneer right on the ash wood veneer.  But I'm not sure how good it will stick, and what kind of preps must I perform in order to ensure a long-lasting door.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply a hybrid approach:  de-stain and strip the thick wooden frame.  But press &lt;em&gt;butternut&lt;/em&gt; on the door.  Then stain the thick wooden frame to match the door's look.  But I doubt that they will match the colours.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks-wise, I think option (2) would be best, as I can bring veneers that look as I want, without even needing to stain it (simply seal it with protective coatings).  But durability-wise, I'm very unsure about any option I thought of so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other thoughts are highly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11065" LastEditorUserId="11065" LastEditDate="2021-10-01T06:39:34.123" LastActivityDate="2021-10-08T08:39:57.383" Title="How to make the natural wood grains become visible on my wooden door?" Tags="|staining|veneer|door|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13133" CreationDate="2021-10-01T07:59:30.607" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buy a new door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Refinishing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Unless there's something unusual about the door that's not evident from the description it literally isn't worth the time and effort to strip and refinish. Even if you price your time at $0.00 (which is fine, many do for home projects) there's a strong argument to be made that it's &lt;em&gt;still&lt;/em&gt; not worth the costs involved, unless you already own all the necessary chemicals and/or tools&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond just general stripping, if it is veneered in ash as you think this is an open-pored wood, and getting that dark stain out of deep grain lines/open pores is often a nightmare. It takes what is already a slow, tedious job and adds even more tedium and effort — in furniture work it's often the case that you would be going over the entire piece with a small wire brush or pointed tools to remove the last traces of stain or coloured finish. Yes, this does take approximately as long as you're imagining it does&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, modern veneers can be structurally damaged by the veneer-cutting process. The wood is sort of fractured, which causes it to absorb more stain/coloured finish, and as a result modern plywoods are notorious for staining much darker than solid wood of the same species. And you guessed it, it makes it much harder to remove stain; it's actually sometimes impossible to remove all traces of it, because you can't sand deep enough to get to fresh wood as you can on thicker veneer, or with solid wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;New veneer? Nah.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;First off, you need to strip before you tackle this so you're doing at least half of the above already o_O Even putting this aside re-veneering something this size is, I suggest, not a job for a first-timer. People generally start learning to veneer on small boxes!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The cost of suitable veneer might be quite a bit higher&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; than you're expecting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The normal veneering process can't be used, in short because &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.oakwoodveneer.com/gluing-veneer-on-exterior-door/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Applying veneer to an exterior door with contact cement isn’t adviseable&lt;/a&gt;. This virtually makes it an impossible job for someone without a well-stocked workshop because of the needed equipment (not least of which is about a zillion&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt; clamps).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What are your thoughts on home security? &lt;em&gt;You'll be without a front door during the whole process.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; you're not losing all the value of the existing door — you should be able to sell it on for a good portion of its price if it's new or in very good condition, giving you a net gain over the original plan :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Buying everything from scratch you could easily get close to, match or even exceed the price of the door depending on your local prices and the tooling you consider necessary to complete the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; I've spent half an hour just tackling some white paint flecks that got onto the &lt;em&gt;already finished&lt;/em&gt; walnut veneer on a piece. If the whole item had been painted white I wouldn't even have bothered trying to strip it, I'd have prepped for new paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Read: substantially higher. The veneer may cost nearly four hundred after shipping! How much is a new door?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt; I exaggerate, but only slightly. To do this well might require 40+ clamps; absolute bare-bones this would set you back ~$200.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-10-02T09:04:06.683" LastActivityDate="2021-10-02T09:04:06.683" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13133" CreationDate="2021-10-01T14:08:48.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use stain remover, and chip a thin layer of wood, then apply a new stain. But I doubt that the pressed veneer is thick enough to allow for any thinning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no fixing the existing veneer. Face veneers on plywood are &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; thin -- the internet says they're 1/30&amp;quot; on average, which means that half the time they're thinner than that. It might be a little thicker in the case of your door, but even so, it's very likely that any stain will have completely permeated the veneer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For that reason, and all the ones that Graphus cited... buy a new door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2021-10-01T14:08:48.440" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13136" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-03T19:36:26.543" Score="-1" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Context.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; Door is used in humidity, rain, and high UV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Questions.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What to look for in timbers' specifications in order to see how well they fit the context?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my research, I found these, but not sure how comprehensive it is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Warping due to humidity.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vulnerability to termite.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Any objective metrics and benchmarks in this domain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does the requirement imply that no softwood timber is good and that I'm limited to hardwood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11065" LastActivityDate="2021-10-04T23:58:09.897" Title="How to pick the right timber for external doors" Tags="|wood-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13137" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-04T14:42:23.027" Score="1" ViewCount="2369" Body="&lt;p&gt;I gouged out a rotted section on my outdoor deck rail surface approximtely 12&amp;quot; long &amp;amp; 2-3&amp;quot; deep.  Advised to fill with sawdust/glue mixture.  Should I fill all at once, or build-up/fill gradually...if so, how many inches at a time?  Thanks so much!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11076" LastActivityDate="2021-10-05T13:12:14.820" Title="Filling Hole with Sawdust &amp; Glue" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13137" CreationDate="2021-10-04T16:07:54.703" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd advise not trying to fill a void that big with glue and dust. Wood doesn't really like being treated like car bondo. Smaller voids and cracks can be filled with putty or home-made filler, but in general it will not last outdoors. Larger voids need to be filled in successive layers, and the layers will be more like 3/16ths of an inch or less. A 12&amp;quot; by 2&amp;quot; void is missing lumber, not a void to be filled with glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either replace the member completely by scarfing a new length in, or chisel out the void and fill it with a &amp;quot;key&amp;quot; piece carefully fitted and glued to the void. Once cured you pare it to size with a chisel and/or plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you need to replace the piece completely, but a photo added to your Question might answer that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It really depends on how badly the piece is damaged, how it interfaces with other members, and how essential to load-bearing the affected member(s) are. If this is part of a deck that is there for safety and is intended to hold the entire mass of a stumbling human, then you &lt;em&gt;absolutely cannot&lt;/em&gt; fill such a void with &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; kind of filler glue and junk. It is better to not have any safety railing (or whatever this is) than one that will give way immediately under a sudden load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not only is this contrary to any building code where such codes exist, it's the sort of thing that leads to broken bones and death.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-10-05T13:12:14.820" LastActivityDate="2021-10-05T13:12:14.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13139" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-04T18:08:43.277" Score="1" ViewCount="628" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently scavenged a broken Ryobi cheap table saw from the curb (somehow the motor had been broken off at the arbor end!) Got a much better fence than the broken plastic one on my cheap import table saw and a decent blade, for free, plus parts like the table below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway I noticed that this one had these large holes on the wings of the table, as does mine. Do these serve any actual purpose? I thought about maybe it's someplace to clamp a router to make an auxilary router table, but there's nothing under the table to make that work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MBFC5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MBFC5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Table saw table&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11078" LastActivityDate="2021-10-04T18:08:43.277" Title="What are the holes on my table saw table for?" Tags="|table-saw|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13140" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-04T21:19:54.793" Score="1" ViewCount="334" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making half-lap joints in 2x4, but they're not at a 90° angle. Therefore, I need two jigs, one angled 10° from square in each direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to poor planning on my part, I made one jig out of &lt;em&gt;one&lt;/em&gt; piece of 1/4&amp;quot; plywood with some blocks screwed to it to locate it on the 2x4, and the other jig I made out of &lt;em&gt;two&lt;/em&gt; pieces of 1/4&amp;quot; plywood. Obviously (though it took 2 days of working on this before it finally hit me), that is the reason my dado cuts are coming out different depths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my dados are different depths, it that going to cause any strength issues in the final, assembled project?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can, if necessary, reset router depth and go recut all the ones on the doubled 1/4&amp;quot; template, but I really don't want to unless I have to (either for strength or to make the pieces end up flush, as I'd like them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what the assembled pieces will look like. This is a test piece that is simply screwed together. While screws will &lt;em&gt;likely&lt;/em&gt; be sufficient, it will be relying entirely on the sheer strength of the screws like this, so I figured a half-lap would be stronger. Also, since this a piece of shop furniture, it's an opportunity to learn a new skill and if it doesn't come out perfect &amp;amp; beautiful, it's still a learning experience that will produce something functional for the shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/93KJK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/93KJK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lumber rack frame&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note, there will be locking casters under this so it will be mobile - I, sadly, don't have enough space to let it sit in the middle of the room.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2021-10-04T22:23:40.617" LastActivityDate="2021-10-04T23:00:49.923" Title="What if a half-lap joint isn't actually &quot;half&quot;?" Tags="|wood|joinery|jig|joints|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13137" CreationDate="2021-10-04T22:25:13.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advised to fill with sawdust/glue mixture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd use epoxy rather than woodworking glue. People glue boats together with epoxy. I've used it for some small deck repairs (much smaller than yours) and it worked fine. It'll be best if you cover it with something -- paint, stain, or UV-blocking varnish. UV light will break down the epoxy over time, and even if just the top part erodes a bit, that'll become a low spot that traps water, leading to more of the damage that you're trying to fix. Very fine sawdust works best; they even sell &amp;quot;wood flour&amp;quot; that's just very fine sawdust as an epoxy thickener.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I fill all at once, or build-up/fill gradually...if so, how many inches at a time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd do the whole thing at once&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt; tapping with a hammer as you fill to help bring air bubbles to the surface. Over-fill it just a bit, so that once the epoxy has cured you can sand it flush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, epoxy cures in an exothermic reaction, and if you mix up a lot of it all at once, it'll heat up fast and cure before you can put it where you want it. You didn't say how wide the void that you want to fill is, but if it's more than maybe 1/2&amp;quot;, mixing in two batches might be a good idea. You might also consider using less of the sawdust in the first part, so that it's easier to pour and get down into the bottom of that void.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; After a little more thought, I want to emphasize again the part about epoxy curing exothermically. If you have enough epoxy curing in a concentrated area it can get hot. &lt;em&gt;Really freaking hot!&lt;/em&gt; Hot enough that &lt;em&gt;Why is my epoxy smoking?&lt;/em&gt; is a pretty common question. Easily hot enough to melt a plastic mixing vessel and burn anyone holding it. And the hotter it gets, the faster it cures and gives off even more heat. None of that will happen if you &lt;strong&gt;read the directions&lt;/strong&gt; for the product you choose and use some common sense; just don’t mix up a big batch to try to fill a large void all at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2021-10-05T00:13:46.190" LastActivityDate="2021-10-05T00:13:46.190" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13140" CreationDate="2021-10-04T23:00:49.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my dados are different depths, it that going to cause any strength issues in the final, assembled project?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously there's a certain amount of personal interpretation on this, but I can't imagine how this wouldn't be totally fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When doing half-laps AKA halving joints spreading the load equally between two crossing pieces of equal thickness, by taking half off each, is obviously the textbook application. But, there are &lt;em&gt;many&lt;/em&gt; similar joints — lap joints of one type or another — where only one part is dadoed (for various reasons) and anything extra is better than this because it adds the second set of shoulders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's also worth pointing out that the quickest and dirtiest version of what you're building would simply use overlap joints so there'd be no joinery at all. And I bet that could yield something that will give longer service than one might guess, especially if glued.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So just in case it needs to be said, glue is advisable as well as the fasteners. However if you want this to remain disassembleable because somewhere down the line you'd like to be able to re-use some of the wood, then dovetail the screws and/or use at least three per joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-10-04T23:00:49.923" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13136" CreationDate="2021-10-04T23:58:09.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the Comments have made a few very salient points, but you might boil it down to just this:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;exterior-durable species that I can afford&lt;/em&gt; &lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most places this will give you a shortlist of woods to select from, many of which will already be in use in commercial doors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible additional factors in your choice worth highlighting include any concerns about carbon miles (typically, a few of the suitable woods are going to be tropical hardwoods), whether you want to use a natural or processed wood product (e.g. Accoya or similar), how exposed or sheltered the location is&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; and somewhat tied to that what you hope/plan to finish the door with&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; This is especially relevant right now, as due to Covid-19 currently we're at the tail end of a global wood shortage, which saw prices rise to the highest ever seen in some cases (&lt;a href=&quot;https://fortune.com/2021/06/04/lumber-prices-housing-market-costs-back-down/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;well over 300% increase&lt;/a&gt; over the previous year's prices).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Which compass direction it faces does have a bearing, as of course does whether there is any overhead protection from the elements. Very broadly speaking, the more exposed the situation the more you'd want to err on the side of a maximally durable species/product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; In terms of traditional finishes, paint being the most protective by far. Varnish is a definite step below this (even marine-quality, consumer-level exterior varnishes are a very distant second place in this category) and penetrating finishes trailing the pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-10-04T23:58:09.897" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13144" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-05T14:09:39.997" Score="2" ViewCount="5413" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard lots of rip cut guides say that you should have your workpiece between the blade and the fence and the offcut on the free side of the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing that bothers me about this advice is surely it should be based on which side is wider / narrower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example let's say I have a long board that is 200mm wide and I want to rip it into 4 strips of 50mm width, ignore the Kerf for this example. For the first cut should the there be ~150mm of wood between the blade and the fence or should there be ~50mm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11082" LastEditorUserId="10942" LastEditDate="2021-10-05T21:30:25.003" LastActivityDate="2024-02-07T17:30:16.340" Title="Wide or narrow side between blade and fence in rip cut on table saw" Tags="|table-saw|safety|rip-cut|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13144" CreationDate="2021-10-05T15:52:28.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In your example, you'd set your fence to 50mm (~2&amp;quot; for those who like Freedom Units ;) and run it through that way. If you should happen to mis-set the fence a bit and you get it at 49.9mm or 50.1mm, at least your strips are all the same. If you put the &amp;quot;off cut&amp;quot; portion between the blade &amp;amp; fence, you have to adjust the fence for every single cut. I've &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; seen anyone do this. &lt;sup&gt;See addendum at the end for an update on this&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While 50mm isn't much room to get your hand safely past the blade without risking losing a finger, this is what a push stick/block is for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing you &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; want to consider is &lt;em&gt;NOT&lt;/em&gt; having the fence on the same side as your blade tips to if you're making an angled cut. In this lovely ASCII art, you'll see that the cut piece between the fence and blade can get pinched, and that's where you get kickback:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  +--+         &amp;lt;--- Fence&#xA;  |  |   v--------- Work piece: this part could get pinched and cause kick back&#xA;  |  |&#xA;  |  |------\----&#xA;  |  |-------\---  &amp;lt;--- Tilted blade&#xA;---------------------   Saw table&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, you'd want to put the fence on the other side to significantly reduce the chance of kick back:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;              +--+&#xA;              |  |&#xA;              |  |&#xA;  ---\--------|  |&#xA;  ----\-------|  |&#xA;---------------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this scenario, the off cut piece won't get pinched between the tilted blade and the fence - it's free to move if it needs to. The &amp;quot;keeper&amp;quot; piece would be free to rise up some if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will note that since I originally wrote this answer, I have learned about a tool/jig called a &amp;quot;thin rip guide&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;narrow rip guide&amp;quot;. This is a device that clamps into one track in your table saw and has a wheel against which you position the stock. You put the jig to the left of the blade and the fence to the right. You adjust the jig so the gap between the wheel &amp;amp; blade is the size of piece you need to keep, then make a cut. You then reposition the &lt;em&gt;fence&lt;/em&gt; by placing the board against the jig's wheel and move the fence until it hits the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This effectively puts the &amp;quot;keeper&amp;quot; piece to the left of the blade and the &amp;quot;off cut&amp;quot; between the blade and fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The goal of this is to be able to safely make thin cuts without risk of the thin piece falling between the blade &amp;amp; insert (hint: a zero-clearance insert also helps), and without it getting stuck between the blade &amp;amp; fence where it's difficult to push past the blade, even with a push stick, and could possibly kick back at you. It even allows you to reinstall the blade guard with its built in anti-kickback pawls for even greater cut safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this setup, you &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; move the fence with every cut, but you've got the jig to make the movement quick and easy and the measurement is repeatable, instead of having to do the math on each one, relying on the fence's scale and your ability to work in imperial fractions (or the easier metric) and having to also calculate in the blade kerf for each cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One example of the &amp;quot;thin rip jig&amp;quot; is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodpeck.com/thin-rip-guide.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one from Woodpeckers&lt;/a&gt;. From what I understand, they make very high quality (and expensive) tools and a lot of people recommend them. I cannot recommend them personally because I don't own any. The Woodpeckers was simply the first one I found in my searching - they're also made by a variety of other manufacturers at differing price &amp;amp; quality levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2024-02-07T17:30:16.340" LastActivityDate="2024-02-07T17:30:16.340" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13146" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13150" CreationDate="2021-10-05T19:34:03.677" Score="1" ViewCount="375" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over a decade ago, my father made a breadboard-style kitchen table for my mother and I have since inherited the table. It was his first (and only) table of that style and so the breadboard joinery didn't turn out as well as he hoped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, the dowels/pins on the end of the table buckled as the slots in/for the tenons weren't long enough for the seasonal movement. These were shaved down and spot-refinished, but the surface and finish quality around them are poor. We are considering a full sanding/refinish of the table to improve this, and are wondering about fixing a second, more severe issue at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second issue, appearing several years later, is that the central portion of the table cracked along its full width. The crack is about 1/8 of an inch wide, and the two sides of it are not at the same level in the center of the table (some twisting/warping of the tabletop perhaps?):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qDnL6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qDnL6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;picture of crack&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to attempt a repair at this. My naive attempt would involve buying a couple long clamps, and gluing the two halves back together, however I would assume that the table would just tear itself apart again. I would like to avoid trying to disassemble the tabletop by drilling the dowels (although fixing the underlying issues with the joinery would be preferable) as I don't trust myself to not make it worse. Or are we better off with our current solution of having a thick runner over the crack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11086" LastActivityDate="2021-10-06T23:58:46.130" Title="Fixing a cracked breadboard tabletop" Tags="|joinery|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13144" CreationDate="2021-10-05T22:30:18.830" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard lots of rip cut guides say that you should have your workpiece between the blade and the fence and the offcut on the free side of the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not really a hard and fast rule, and there are several factors to consider: safety, accuracy, feasibility, efficiency... Normally, you want the workpiece between the blade and fence because you set that distance directly with the rip fence scale; there's no need to measure the stock and then subtract the fence setting and the blade kerf. Also, unless you've already trimmed the far edge of the stock (by running it through the saw with most of it between blade and rip fence) you can't count on the edges being parallel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing that bothers me about this advice is surely it should be based on which side is wider / narrower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd only consider that insomuch as it impacts one of the factors (above) that I care about. Most saws have a rip capacity of at least 30&amp;quot;; any cut that you can make safely within your saw's range should be OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example let's say I have a long board that is 200mm wide and I want to rip it into 4 strips of 50mm width, ignore the Kerf for this example. For the first cut should the there be ~150mm of wood between the blade and the fence or should there be ~50mm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd set the fence to 50mm and make the cuts. That guarantees that they'll all be the same width, which is often important, and it saves the trouble of moving the fence after every cut. It's no less safe than starting with the fence at 150mm because the fence is going to be set at 50mm for the last cut, so I need to make sure I can do that safely anyway -- use a push stick/block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2021-10-05T22:30:18.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13148" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-06T00:19:50.877" Score="0" ViewCount="239" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a woodworking beginner trying to restore a Stanley no 5 and have run into problem with the blade hanging lower on one side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if it was originally like this or something I did - I've flattened the sole, squared and sharpened the blade, and ran the frog over sandpaper a few times to remove dirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no noticeable issues with the mouth, it looks nice and square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this may be something to do with the frog?&#xA;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1xpZQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1xpZQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11087" LastEditorUserId="11087" LastEditDate="2021-10-06T00:30:12.093" LastActivityDate="2021-10-06T15:44:44.043" Title="Hand plane blade lower on one side" Tags="|hand-tools|hand-planing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13148" CreationDate="2021-10-06T05:34:44.243" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You say Stanley no 5 so your plane is a Bailey pattern, which has a lateral-adjusting lever on the frog. Changing the angle of the cutting edge is the purpose of this lever. Push it towards the corner you want to pull up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how the lateral works as shown by instructions in Stanley documents:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Jr8p.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Jr8p.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AunGq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AunGq.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. If your plane is a very early model, &amp;quot;pre lateral&amp;quot; as it is called, or if the lever is broken from the frog you can still adjust. Using a small hammer hit lightly the side of the iron with the projecting corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-10-06T15:44:44.043" LastActivityDate="2021-10-06T15:44:44.043" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13146" CreationDate="2021-10-06T07:30:24.803" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to attempt a repair at this. My naive attempt would involve buying a couple long clamps, and gluing the two halves back together, however I would assume that the table would just tear itself apart again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yup, your assumption is likely correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This cracked because something in the construction was wrong, and glueing the crack closed is just a bandaid unless you solve the underlying cause&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. And this is IF it will actually close with clamp pressure, there's no guarantee it will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I think you know, the 'breadboard ends' need to be fitted correctly to allow for expansion (and contraction). If some aspect of them is not done correctly&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; then it constrains seasonal movement and something has to give; despite the sceptics who think warnings about seasonal movement are exaggerated, even that it's all some kind of myth, at worst you can get a crack as your photo amply illustrates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to avoid trying to disassemble the tabletop by drilling the dowels (although fixing the underlying issues with the joinery would be preferable) as I don't trust myself to not make it worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately the thing you want to avoid doing IS the solution, sorry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't mind losing the length I would suggest just sawing the ends off entirely and be done with them. Full disclosure: I'm not a fan of 'breadboard ends' and don't care for them on tables of any decent width&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;, but my suggestion is also very much from a practical standpoint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the ends were glued on over-enthusiastically they may be impossible to remove without significant damage to them, one or more of the boards that make up the tabletop, or just the tenon(s). Even if the tenon(s) only are damaged this presents a real problem, since it may mean sawing them off and fitting one or more floating tenons, which is not an easy job to do well even if you have the tools necessary. And it &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; be done well or there's no point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Far simpler to just saw the ends off and leave them off; simultaneously it almost guarantees that you can separate that crack, clean it (vital!), glue/re-glue it and clamp it back together (using &lt;em&gt;plenty&lt;/em&gt; of clamp pressure) with far greater chance of a level result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are considering a full sanding/refinish&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By all means refinish if you want to (although it's likely it's not absolutely necessary after only 10 or 12 years, varnish jobs usually last a good 2-4 decades) but if you do want to go back to bare wood and start again, strip, don't sand! As I've touched on many times previously here, sanding is basically the worst way to remove previous finish — despite how often you'll see earnest YouTubers doing it! — with almost any other option to be preferred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the table were in good condition otherwise I'd have suggested a top-up finishing (coincidentally touched on in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/13069/good-methods-for-scuffing-sanding-ready-built-furniture-with-contours-for-repain/13074#13074&quot;&gt;a recent Q&amp;amp;A&lt;/a&gt;) using wiping varnish, as a faster, lower-effort option. But with this significant structural issue there's a decent chance you will end up going down to bare wood somewhere, and you may need to finish the end grain from scratch, so a full refinish of the top is likely to be needed anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Just to be clear, if you glue this well that crack won't open up again (because glue joints &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; stronger than wood). It'll just crack elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Too much glue used (i.e. glue applied too far from the centre); slots for the pegs made too short; tenon too thin; tenon just a single, plain projection nearly the full width of the tabletop. Or a combination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Because there seems to be about two weeks in any year when they're the same length as the main field of the table is wide.... blink and you'll miss it :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-10-06T07:30:24.803" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13133" CreationDate="2021-10-06T17:58:40.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stain remover worked fine for removing most of the stain and other upper lacquer/sealer layers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A thin layer of veneer then was pressed on the door.  All good without buying a new door.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Todo:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Upload before/after photos, alongside details.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Update post after a year to report on the long-term effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/sub&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11065" LastEditorUserId="11065" LastEditDate="2021-10-08T08:39:57.383" LastActivityDate="2021-10-08T08:39:57.383" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13152" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13155" CreationDate="2021-10-06T23:14:18.520" Score="0" ViewCount="1144" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a piece of wood with an engraved logo and text. Both the wood and the engraving are painted. The engraving is gold and in great conditions; not very deep (perhaps 1/32&amp;quot; or even less). The rest of the paint is not great, so I am planning to sand it and repaint (black, compared to the current brown). The whole piece is large and complicated, so rebuilding it completely is out of the question, also because it is in great shape (besides the paint damage).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could just paint everything black and keep the engraving the same color as the rest, which would be ok, but not great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My preferred outcome would be the existing golden letters with black getting right around them. The problem is that it would be extremely tedious, time consuming and error prone to paint the area around the logo, which has fairly complicated letters, so I am not going to do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, I could leave the existing brown paint around the logo (which is not ruined in that area) and perhaps build a small frame with some small moulding to make it look like a picture &amp;quot;hanged&amp;quot; in there. This might be nice, depending on how nicely I could build and paint the frame, but again, not my preference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could achieve my preferred outcome if I could prevent the black paint from sticking on the existing engraved letters. I can think of two options to do so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use some kind of filling which I could use to relatively easily fill the engraving, then paint everything and then remove the filling. I guess I can experiment myself with something like playdoh or similar toy product on scrap wood of similar quality, but perhaps something commercial for this application already exist? Would non-hardening wood putty work for this purpose?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply an an anti-graffiti permanent coat, or some kind of wax in the area. Then sand with a block making sure to remove it all from the &amp;quot;higher&amp;quot; part and none from the engraving. Then paint and hopefully the paint will not stick in (or will be easily removed from) the engraving.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course I will also need to make sure that the paint does not peel from the nearby areas when removed from the engraving. Before engaging in a futile exercise of frustration, let me ask: has anybody tried something like this, and if so with success or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11092" LastActivityDate="2022-03-15T02:42:04.660" Title="painting wood with existing engraving logo" Tags="|paint|carving|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13146" CreationDate="2021-10-06T23:58:46.130" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about building a shim of the appropriate size and color and glue it into the crack? Of course it won't fix the level issue, but it may be &amp;quot;good enough&amp;quot; for your expected result and intended effort&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11092" LastActivityDate="2021-10-06T23:58:46.130" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13154" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13158" CreationDate="2021-10-08T14:34:27.317" Score="-1" ViewCount="807" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Context.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; I'm trying to design cheap interior doors, for areas including the bathroom.  Such doors will have hardwood frame and veneered plywood on the outside, but filled with chipboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Goal.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; Make sure that water doesn't reach the chipboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; Is wood glue adequate to achieve &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;goal&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;?  If not, any recommendations for water-proofing chipboard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11065" LastEditorUserId="10942" LastEditDate="2021-10-09T03:20:41.620" LastActivityDate="2021-10-09T04:50:59.533" Title="Is wood glue a good sealer to prevent water/moisture leakage?" Tags="|water-protection|chipboard|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13152" CreationDate="2021-10-08T16:10:44.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was into model railroading as a kid, we used what was called &amp;quot;liquid mask&amp;quot; to paint onto areas that we didn't want a new coat/color of paint to adhere to. The liquid mask went on clear, so you could see what you were doing. It was very thin and would adhere to all sorts of fine details that would, literally, be impossible to mask with any sort of tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the mask was dry, you could brush or spray paint to your heart's content, knowing that the mask was there protecting &amp;quot;lower&amp;quot; layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you were done painting, you could simply scrape the liquid mask off, taking any over spray with it. It would come off cleanly and leave as crisp a line as you'd created when painting it on in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The liquid mask I was familiar with (30+ years ago) was designed for plastics and modeling paint, but I cannot see any reason why it wouldn't work on &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; paint. I don't think you'd be able to find it in a &amp;quot;regular&amp;quot; paint store or big-box store paint departments. You'll probably have to go to a hobby store to find it. Once there, you could ask about how it would adhere to various different paints (everything I used in modeling was oil based, I don't know what your sign is painted with), and if they think it would work well in your situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may have to buy a couple of bottles, depending on how &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; lettering you have, but it should work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of note: I don't know if they still make the stuff, or what it might be called these days. As I said, I last used it more than 30 years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2021-10-08T16:10:44.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12817" CreationDate="2021-10-08T18:14:01.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Im afraid of the table swaying or racking...and was wondering if I could use paracord to diagnolly brace the legs to prevent this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No.&lt;/strong&gt; Real, military-spec paracord is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.paracordplanet.com/content/mil-c-5040h.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;required to stretch a minimum of 30%&lt;/a&gt;, and is therefore not a good choice for preventing racking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ive heard that steel cable can be used, but its expenisve&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure. Even steel cable stretches a little, but far less than paracord, and of course it's far stronger as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are plenty of other options. You can use wooden or metal strips as cross braces. One of the most effective ways to protect against racking is to add a solid panel to the back of the piece. A 1/4&amp;quot; sheet of plywood or even Masonite (tempered hardboard) nailed in several places to each leg adds a lot of strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2021-10-08T18:14:01.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13157" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-09T03:22:58.093" Score="0" ViewCount="914" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just received a custom table finished with minwax water-based polyurethane. It's been about a week so I tested applying pressure with my fingernail, which did leave a small scratch if you look closely. I'm just wondering if this is expected for polyurethane finishes or if they should be completely scratch resistant. I'm mainly concerned with if it's fully cured or not (for health reasons)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the expectation is that it should scratch a bit with my fingernail then that's fine with me. Just don't want to be using an desk that isn't fully cured because that might not be safe from what I've been reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More details from a comment posted below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I don't know how hard a fully cured product feels, my main question was how can I tell if it is fully cured or not. The person who made the desk put on 7 coats within 20-30 min of each other spread out between 2 days, so people have told me it may never fully cure so I'm wondering if even if will never reach the expected hardness of a properly applied product, will it still be safe to use as a desk and occasionally eat on (its hard to tell from the smell since the water-based stuff has low odor)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11099" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2021-10-12T12:31:09.370" LastActivityDate="2021-10-12T12:31:09.370" Title="Is water-based polyurethane completely scratch resistant?" Tags="|finishing|safety|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13154" CreationDate="2021-10-09T04:50:59.533" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is wood glue adequate to achieve goal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are different types of wood glue with varying degrees of water resistance. I suppose that if you coat the substrate with TiteBond III you’d add some water resistance. That said, if I wanted to seal a wood product and make it waterproof, glue wouldn’t be my first (or even fifth) choice. I’d use one of the many products intended for that. If you Google “waterproof wood sealer” you’ll find quite a few good options. And as Graphus already noted, the finish that you put on the door may be enough by itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2021-10-09T04:50:59.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13159" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2021-10-09T15:06:00.430" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-10-09T15:06:00.430" LastActivityDate="2021-10-09T15:06:00.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13160" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2021-10-09T15:06:00.430" Score="0" Body="Chipboard is the British English term for particleboard." OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-10-09T15:06:00.430" LastActivityDate="2021-10-09T15:06:00.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13161" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13165" CreationDate="2021-10-09T15:34:11.850" Score="4" ViewCount="900" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to make some drawer boxes out of plywood, and don't think I have enough space to set up to feel safe using a circular saw (certainly no room for a table saw).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Popular opinion seems to be that you can't cut straight with a (handheld) jigsaw. But with it against a straight edge clamped as makeshift fence, how can it be worse than (my amateur) hand sawing? Does the blade really wobble side to side that much?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can plywood be (hand) planed, or does the glue gum up too much? If so I would think a jigsaw wobble cut &amp;amp; planing would still be faster/better overall than by (my inexperienced) hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11100" LastActivityDate="2021-10-10T10:15:20.453" Title="Straight cuts in plywood without a circular saw" Tags="|plywood|hand-planing|hand-saw|jigsaw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="21" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13162" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-09T19:08:49.403" Score="2" ViewCount="1493" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a big working table, and it has 4 legs of 90mmx90mm. I want to put some leveling mechanism that also protects the wood uneven floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found these pieces in Ali Express as I could not find anything in local shops (Diameter 80mm, thread 12x100mm):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IlbnF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IlbnF.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, how do I install this in the wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10753" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2021-10-11T09:46:14.123" LastActivityDate="2021-10-11T09:46:14.123" Title="How can I install an adjustable leveling support leg in a table?" Tags="|process|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13162" CreationDate="2021-10-09T23:13:03.903" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's what I'd do...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those leveler feet are often sold with T-nut fasteners. If not, you will also have to purchase appropriately sized T-nuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bore holes in the legs so that the threaded shafts will fit inside and install T-nuts in the bored hole. Turn the foot/threaded shaft to the desired height and tighten the nuts back against the T-nuts to lock the height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tN7RP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tN7RP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Installing leg levellers in wooden legs&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Image stolen from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dscnowi.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;amp;products_id=7889&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; via Google.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other options include leveler feet that screw on to the side of the legs like these available from Rockler (and a slew of other retailers) which look a little more robust and might be better suited to a heavy workbench-like table:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Wb4i.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Wb4i.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Side-Mount leveler Feet&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image stolen from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rockler.com/heavy-duty-lifting-leveler&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rockler&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2021-10-10T12:24:51.297" LastActivityDate="2021-10-10T12:24:51.297" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13162" CreationDate="2021-10-10T06:03:05.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, how do I install &lt;strong&gt;this&lt;/strong&gt; in the wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the feet pictured you will need two drill bits of different sizes. Because they do not come with T nuts you will also need epoxy glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bits needed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Size of 1st bit you get from measuring nut point to point, not flat to flat. &lt;strong&gt;You want same size or larger.&lt;/strong&gt; Best bit type would be  Forstner, but cheaper flat bits may work ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Size of 2nd bit you get from threaded rod. You want &lt;strong&gt;1mm larger diameter&lt;/strong&gt; otherwise you will have strong resistance screwing feet in the legs. Ensure it is long enough for full depth!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mark center hole on leg with awl or nail. Find center of square feet by drawing diagonals. For round legs see tips here &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2837/how-do-i-drill-a-hole-exactly-in-the-center-of-a-circle&quot;&gt;How do I drill a hole exactly in the center of a circle?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make larger hole first, then smaller hole one will automatically center on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Degrease nuts with e.g. acetone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Epoxy nuts into each foot&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wait for epoxy to harden, then thread feet into legs and level your table - check using long level, or short level + long plank with parallel edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be careful to drill on axis of leg or feet will not be level!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastEditorUserId="10942" LastEditDate="2021-10-11T06:46:35.173" LastActivityDate="2021-10-11T06:46:35.173" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13161" CreationDate="2021-10-10T10:15:20.453" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Remember that every sheet of plywood should have two good long edges, two good short edges AND possibly four square corners&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/em&gt; Use this to your advantage if the factory edges are in good condition; and if they're not perhaps a little hand planing or sanding with a block will clean them up enough that you can use them as the bottom edge in drawer boxes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;don't think I have enough space to set up to feel safe using a circular saw (certainly no room for a table saw).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW circular saws are considered &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; tool for making at least the initial break-down cuts on sheet goods, so if you will be using plywood etc. a fair bit one can be a worthwhile purchase. And arguably the safest way to use one to do this is to work on the floor, on top of a sacrificial surface such as thick insulation foam, so the method doesn't require a dedicated workplace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, with just a few scraps of wood and a little ingenuity you can quite easily create a very capable sawing guide, saving 'a little' over some of the commercial track saws ^_^&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4qyO7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4qyO7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Circ saw on foam&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Popular opinion seems to be that you can't cut straight with a (handheld) jigsaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well popular opinion is wrong in this case. As I say in my Comment above, the (many) people who say this are either blindly repeating a 'fact' they've heard, or they're relating their own experience &lt;em&gt;where they did it wrong&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure, with a jigsaw you won't easily match the kind of cut you can achieve with a table saw, or a circular saw for that matter (even used freehand), but you can cut &lt;em&gt;at least&lt;/em&gt; as straight as with a panel saw and nobody goes around criticising hand saws for how bad those are at sawing to the line!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just as when making cuts with a hand saw, so much comes down to the user.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a jigsaw if you push the cut you're setting yourself up for failure. But slow down and be patient, let the saw do the work, and you can saw to line really well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the blade really wobble side to side that much?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AFAIK it's not really about blade wobble, it's more about blade deflection (from pushing the cut) which can tend to pull the saw away from the desired path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slow right down however and a wandering jigsaw will start to behave itself. Sawing is not a race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that's just if sawing freehand. Things get even better if you jig it.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nUCcv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nUCcv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sawing Straight with the Jigsaw&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can plywood be (hand) planed, or does the glue gum up too much?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously plywood quality varies (lots) but yes you can definitely plane it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll probably find you need to re-hone your iron a little more frequently than normal, but not excessively so. I recently had to plane quite a bit of OSB which is way tougher than a typical plywood, and even that wasn't too bad&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watch out for spelching at the corners due to every second ply being at right angles to the edge, and utilise one of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/741/how-do-you-plane-end-grain/753#753&quot;&gt;end-grain planing tricks&lt;/a&gt; for clean corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What plane to use&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Honestly just about anything. If the drawers you plan to make are not small you could do with using a no. 4 or 5 for their longer soles, but you can do this quite well with a block plane. Just needs a little more care to ensure your edges end up straight if you're using a shorter plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of the plane you use having the iron nice and sharp will of course pay dividends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Sawing plywood by hand&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to dissuade you from trying to saw sheet goods by hand, because with one of the better modern panel saws with tough, hardened teeth and the right setup (saw horses etc.) you can break down plywood surprisingly quickly&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; and easily by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your first few cuts are unlikely to be the straightest ever made naturally, but as you're already committed to cleaning up the sawn edges by planing as long as you stick to the waste side of the line it sorta doesn't matter :-) And you will get better at it with practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So don't dismiss it as unworkable method, despite the undeniable advantages of doing it with a power saw. Sometimes it's just way faster to do it by hand, and &lt;em&gt;good enough&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; At least two have a reputation for being reliably square, but never take this for granted. &lt;em&gt;Always&lt;/em&gt; check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; And this was with stock irons in very much non-premium planes, so not using A2, PMV-11 or anything like that :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; 3/4&amp;quot; material saws at approx. one inch per stroke &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4948/how-can-i-accurately-cross-cut-a-board-that-is-too-wide-for-my-table-saw/5360#5360&quot;&gt;according to Jim Tolpin&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-10-10T10:15:20.453" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13162" CreationDate="2021-10-10T15:03:21.640" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't recommend T-nuts for this.  They're best used on the opposite site from where the bolt is inserted, as they can't resist any sort of pulling force or moments if the foot should get kicked or get bumped while being moved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would use a threaded insert.  It's a cylindrical piece of metal with threads on both the inside and outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The outside is a coarse thread for the wood, and the inside is a finer thread for the metal bolt.  Some are also 'key locking' in which there are parts to hammer in to keep the insert from being able to rotate out (or further in), or 'screw locking' in which the outer threads are a bit irregular to create extra friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you buy inserts for the correct material -- they make them for wood, plastic, and particle board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11102" LastActivityDate="2021-10-10T15:03:21.640" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13167" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13168" CreationDate="2021-10-11T13:54:18.267" Score="0" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; This is made by, I think, gluing many moderately sized pieces of hardwood.  What is it called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DvCgd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DvCgd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Appandix.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;  Reason I'm interested about this is to consider using it for doors instead of simply table tops.  I see them as cheaper alternatives to single-piece timber, while still being maintainable (e.g. can sand and repair) and strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think if the pattern is horizontal, such doors will blend nicely with stone walls like the one below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2M7ug.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2M7ug.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/sub&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11065" LastEditorUserId="11065" LastEditDate="2021-10-12T18:58:22.447" LastActivityDate="2021-10-12T18:58:22.447" Title="What's the name of this type of wood panel?" Tags="|wood-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13167" CreationDate="2021-10-11T14:04:42.497" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The commonly used name for it is &amp;quot;butcher block&amp;quot;, however it really isn't. True butcher block is glued up the same way, but you see the end grain on the horizontal surface instead of the long grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a &amp;quot;glue up&amp;quot;, but if you're searching for it by that name, you probably won't find it, it'll probably be listed as &amp;quot;butcher block&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be honest, I haven't gone shopping for doors lately, but I've never seen a glued-up door like this. I don't know if that's due to strength or the fact that you may be one of 7 people&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt; to whom this would appeal as a door, but they don't seem to make them. I don't know of any reason you &lt;em&gt;couldn't&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;shouldn't&lt;/em&gt; make a door this way, but they're not common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be less expensive if you were to make it yourself, since you could use smaller pieces of lumber to start with, however, for commercially manufactured doors, this would actually probably cost more because there's significantly more labor involved in cutting, surfacing and gluing all those little pieces than there is in traditional door manufacturing. If you're DIYing it, you bear those costs as well, but we tend to give a zero-cost factor to time when making things ourselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt; 97.23% of all internet statistics are made up on the spot.;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2021-10-11T14:04:42.497" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13169" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13170" CreationDate="2021-10-12T03:33:42.370" Score="3" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on one of my first DIY projects that's a combination of some 3d printed parts along with one main wood piece. The goal that I'm trying to achieve is a static keyboard tray that hangs under my main table. I think I have a somewhat sturdy custom clamp that attaches to my table, and it will allow the tray to hopefully be anchored to a fixed flat piece with some 6-32 screws (image below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iP2mP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iP2mP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue that I'm running into now is the wood board, as I need to find a board that can be cut in the following way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iP2mP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TZulo.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a complete newbie to this kind of thing, I was hoping to get some information regarding where I could find such a wood board or the most similar form factor (about 35'x28'x0.5'), along with ways of forming it into the shape needed. I think I might definitely need to use a drill for the holes, but what tool could I use for the center cuts? I would prefer not using power tools just because I don't trust myself with them yet, haha. Any help is appreciated! thanks :]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11106" LastActivityDate="2021-10-13T23:04:38.393" Title="How to find or create board for about 40x28 table to use as a keyboard tray" Tags="|wood-selection|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13169" CreationDate="2021-10-12T07:43:05.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think plywood will be ok for this. The price may be high currently because of wood shortage! Also I think you'd need to purchase from a supplier who will cut a piece to your size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tools:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill + bits.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hand saw.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any hand saw will do just fine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Here's one example:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KBORWm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KBORWm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hand saw&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Example saw courtesy of Harbor Freight.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 pack of sandpaper + scrap block.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mark for holes then drill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Draw cutouts. Drill row of holes very close together to shape of rounded end, then saw from the edge until you touch the holes and can remove the waste piece. Perfect ASCII image for you to follow  :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;_ _      _ _ &#xA;   |    |  &#xA;   |    |&#xA;   |    |&#xA;   oooooo&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Smooth rough end with sandpaper wrapped around beer bottle or other cylindrical shape. Start @ 80, then finish with 120.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sand edges smooth, sandpaper wrapped around scrap piece. If rough start @ 80, if smooth start @ 120. Finish @ 180. Slightly round corners to prevent chipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sand surface in direction of grain, only with 180 or 250.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2021-10-12T16:40:16.560" LastActivityDate="2021-10-12T16:40:16.560" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="840" CreationDate="2021-10-12T08:54:43.513" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look at Patrick Sullivan's &amp;quot;end grain glue&amp;quot; video experiment on YouTube to be amazed by his analysis showing that end-grain glue joints are actually stronger than other grain orientations that have the same amount of bonded surface area. The reason that end-grain joints are dismissed is because the joint is usually small when separate end-grain surfaces need to be attached. In addition, with end-grain joints, the orientation of the grain in the wood makes it much stronger than the glue, whereas in other grain orientations, there are portions of the wood that are weaker than the glue.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/m7HxBa9WVis&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/m7HxBa9WVis&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11108" LastActivityDate="2021-10-12T08:54:43.513" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13167" CreationDate="2021-10-12T12:31:07.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add to Freeman's excellent answer, the important takeaway here is that a slab that is made up of a lot of little oddly dimensioned pieces is a function of most of these being factory made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; make this in the home shop, but they'd have to be pretty neat with the never-ending jointing (on all sides!) and careful with glue-up and clamping. I suspect one would have to do this in stages, or have a dedicated clamping setup to handle all the slippy pieces. Not to mention that it is hard to clamp along two axes, so you might need to make a bunch of staves that are then clamped together and trimmed to size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, while modern glues are amazingly strong, each of those hundreds of joints would have to be well made or natural wood movement will separate at least one of them over time. This is because factory methods can control glue application, clamping pressure (probably managed with strain gauges) in all directions, heat, and humidity for near-perfect seams. They will have this dialed in for the material and joints in a way that would be hard (but not impossible) for the home shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are techniques for making panels from smaller pieces, of course. But few shops would do it the way Ikea, et al, do. There are also some tricks with respect to slightly hollowing out joints to make sure the seam is nice and tight. (For all I know, the factory methods do this, as well.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does not address how the panel will then have to be surfaced. A power planer would work, though the potential for snipe over joints might be problematic. I would not want to hand-plane a door-sized piece, but with the right skill and tools it can be done (obviously). If you have a thicknesser/planer/sander you could glue up panels that fit the maximum dimension of that and then glue up the large panels so only that seam needs to be trued afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the takeaway is that the look and construction of these large panels made from hundreds off smaller offcuts is made possible by factories where humans load up machines and help arrange orientation, and robots do the rest. In my opinion there is very little that translates to actual woodworking with hand or power tools when looking at the results. Not to mention that it would be a &lt;em&gt;huge&lt;/em&gt; amount of work to do this in the home shop, even with all sorts of power tools, and there is no guarantee one will get the same results as we see in the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-10-12T16:29:29.793" LastActivityDate="2021-10-12T16:29:29.793" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13169" CreationDate="2021-10-12T22:14:28.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was hoping to get some information regarding where I could find such a wood board or the most similar form factor (about 35'x28'x0.5'),&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy a 1/4 sheet (24&amp;quot;x48&amp;quot;) or 1/2 sheet (48&amp;quot;x48&amp;quot;) of 1/2&amp;quot;-thick plywood from your nearest home center (Home Depot, Lowes, etc.), and those places are usually happy to cut it to size for you, possibly for a small additional charge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I might definitely need to use a drill for the holes, but what tool could I use for the center cuts? I would prefer not using power tools just because I don't trust myself with them yet, haha.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're right -- a drill is the easiest way to add the holes you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not clear on whether the other cuts go all the way through the panel or not. If not, a router is the best way to go. I won't explain that here since you're eager to avoid power tools anyway. If you end up going that route, just know that it's not difficult or dangerous if you have a bit of knowledge, so try to get a friend to show you how it's done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the U-shaped cuts do go all the way through the panel, a coping saw would be a very easy and safe option. A coping saw has a thin blade that can cut curves, and it's a good tool for a beginner because it's easy to control and quite inexpensive. I'd drill holes in the corners of each U, and then cut the straight parts with the saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2021-10-12T22:14:28.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10098" CreationDate="2021-10-13T13:00:52.113" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The nice thing about round corners and routers is that the automatically make them round.  In this case you could make a frame that you follow with the router on the inside.  if you use a bushing guide, the frame can be smaller since it will sit under the router as it follows.  if you don't use the bushing, you need to add the distance from the bit to the outside edge and add that to the guide distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't need to worry about the your guide having rounded corners, because neither the router base nor a bushing are going to get 'into' the corner, Your round router bit will ALWAYS leave a round corner on the inside, so finding a bit that has the same radius would be the simplest solution.  Then you just need a square guide the 'right' size and run the router around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Graphus pointed out that the correct routing direction in this situation is the opposite to 'normal'.  So take care!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2021-10-13T18:13:16.390" LastActivityDate="2021-10-13T18:13:16.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13169" CreationDate="2021-10-13T20:30:27.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do a local search for &lt;em&gt;hardwood dealer&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;lumber yard&lt;/em&gt; and then call a couple up and tell them what you need. They're generally pretty accommodating and rely on good customer service skills more than the big-box stores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some lumber yards, hardwood suppliers, (and big-box stores) will have pre-made panels in a variety of species. You could probably persuade someone to trim it down to your exact dimensions (possibly for an additional charge).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, ask if they will &amp;quot;glue up&amp;quot; a panel to your dimensions. You can also choose what species of wood you want. Some lumber/hardwood dealers might do the other machining for you too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kencraftcompany.com/custom-millwork/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Custom milling services&lt;/a&gt; This is the place near me, other places near you are bound to be similar. Talk to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They may sell high-quality hardwood plywood (not the big-box stores) in various species in sizes as small as a quarter sheet (2'x4') or have off-cuts of plywood or other remnants available for much less than buying a full (or half) sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2021-10-13T23:04:38.393" LastActivityDate="2021-10-13T23:04:38.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13176" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-14T00:39:35.357" Score="1" ViewCount="1465" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to make a king-size bed frame. I have 2&amp;quot;x6&amp;quot;x80&amp;quot; pine boards that were free (always best). I planed them down to 1&amp;quot; thick to use for the head/foot/side rails. If I rip these down to 1&amp;quot;x4&amp;quot; with the 4&amp;quot; vertical, if only supported at the ends on 3&amp;quot; legs will they be strong enough to support the box springs, 14&amp;quot; mattress, and us (2 adults &amp;amp; a dog - 390lbs). The link provided is the bed I am using as a base design (per the wife). Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://thuma.co&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bed frame&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11118" LastActivityDate="2023-05-17T22:10:23.047" Title="Board strength of true 1&quot;x4&quot;" Tags="|strength|board-materials|timberframe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13176" CreationDate="2021-10-14T08:11:21.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Board strength of true 1&amp;quot;x4&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further to what I say above in my Comment, because wood varies so much it's impossible to give real-world figures for this type of query. You can find tables for wood strength in various places online&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; but they aren't really of much help when it comes down to the material at hand and the strength of individual boards is important, as it is here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's particularly hard to rely on published data with typical softwood material these days, one reason being the frequent presence of knots. Knots can be relatively inconsequential if within a board&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; but locate one near the middle of a span along the bottom edge and just one can fatally undermine the strength of a board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or to put it another way, &lt;em&gt;forget the data, what's this board like?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I rip these down to 1&amp;quot;x4&amp;quot; with the 4&amp;quot; vertical... will they be strong enough to support the box springs, 14&amp;quot; mattress, and us (2 adults &amp;amp; a dog - 390lbs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without seeing photos of your material to better judge its qualities I think it's still possible to make a judgement call here, and mine is: a definite NO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My back-of-envelope calculations put the total load here, conservatively, at 600lb (!) or &amp;gt;270kg for my metric brethren. For that kind of weight I'd very much want to err on the side of strength if working with an unknown softwood, no matter how straight-grained and clear it was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also you're converting from a hardwood prototype to softwood, and the rule of thumb is you beef up material when you do this (often by going both thicker &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; wider).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I hadn't spotted this myself, thanks to @VolframK and @FreeMan, but the commercial item itself appears not to be built strongly enough&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;..... so yeah, &lt;em&gt;definitely&lt;/em&gt; beef up the design if you're going ahead:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CKvS4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CKvS4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bed sagging under load&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Much of it apparently sourced from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FPL&lt;/a&gt; since you usually see their numbers reproduced verbatim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; And live, not dead (loose).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Despite costing more than a grand O_O&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-10-16T09:41:01.377" LastActivityDate="2021-10-16T09:41:01.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13178" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-14T10:16:01.073" Score="3" ViewCount="1026" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Context: I'm new to woodworking and starting it as a hobby. I bought several cheap tools (Deko) and I'm learning mostly through YouTube.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When cutting circular cuts (in 20mm chipboard) using a Deko cordless jigsaw and blades (T111C HCS) I got from AliExpress, I noticed the blade gets hot to the touch after around a minute of cutting (non-stop). I've also seen what I think might be smoke (although it may also be fine dust).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now I cut for around 1 minute and pause for a few to let the blade cool down. Is this necessary? Is this normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11120" LastEditorUserId="11120" LastEditDate="2021-10-16T20:13:55.700" LastActivityDate="2021-10-16T20:13:55.700" Title="Should I let the jigsaw blade rest once it heats?" Tags="|blade|saw-blade|jigsaw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13178" CreationDate="2021-10-14T12:40:34.763" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't pause &lt;em&gt;specifically to cool the blade&lt;/em&gt; when I'm cutting with any tool. I do, however, usually burn my fingers slightly if I have to change the blade because I always forget just how hot the things get. I usually have one glove handy if I need to change blades during cutting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that there are often pauses in my working as I readjust myself to cut at a more comfortable angle. Particularly when cutting curves, you're going to have to stop to rearrange yourself &amp;amp; the work simply because your shoulder doesn't rotate to allow you to make a full circle in one non-stop motion. I usually don't even take the jig saw off the work piece for those type of adjustments unless there's a possibility of knocking the saw off the work or I'm cutting in a slot in the work support and don't want to catch the blade there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Higher quality blades will, in addition to lasting longer, starting and staying sharper, and being made more accurately, will likely also take the heat a bit better, but I'd bet you'd be hard pressed to find any accurate data on how much impact heat has on the blade life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chipboard/particle board/MDF is going to be hard on blades no matter what tool or what quality you purchase. These materials, because they have so much resinous glue in them are simply harder on the blades than &amp;quot;real&amp;quot; wood is going to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mention that you think you've seen a bit of smoke. That's possible because of the glue in what you're cutting. The clue is to look at the cut edge to see if there are scorch marks. If there are, then there was a bit of burning during the cut. If they are a problem for the finished piece, a little bit of sanding will get rid of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2021-10-14T19:02:03.647" LastActivityDate="2021-10-14T19:02:03.647" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13178" CreationDate="2021-10-14T15:54:38.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I let the jigsaw blade rest once it heats?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not usually, no. It's perfectly normal for jigsaw blades to get hot in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even &lt;em&gt;hand saws&lt;/em&gt; can get uncomfortably hot&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; if you're sawing enough and any traditional saw is made of plain carbon steel. Modern jigsaw blades should be made of much more heat-tolerant alloys that don't care even a little about running hot, up to about the temperature that you scorch wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are getting smoke&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; it probably indicates you're running &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; hot, in which case you can take a break or cool the blade down by swabbing it with a damp cloth or dipping it in water. This won't harm the blade, any more than dipping chisels in water periodically during grinding does — despite tales to the contrary&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; — and again most chisels are not a modern alloy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to note in relation to jigsaws specifically is the relatively thin blades being held at one end only mean they work best if they're run at their 'natural pace', and that pace is, um, not fast&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt;. Try to let the saw do the work; remember that &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/13161/straight-cuts-in-plywood-without-a-circular-saw/13165#13165&quot;&gt;it's not a race&lt;/a&gt;. It's hard to describe how this feels in words, much easier to demonstrate in person (as it was to me), but you should experience little resistance to forward motion of the saw. Imagine controlling the saw with one hand and pushing it forward with just one fingertip of the other hand and that might give a good impression of how much forward pressure you should use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm learning mostly through YouTube&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You didn't ask about this but I wanted to address it in the context of power-tool use. &lt;em&gt;Be very careful who you learn from!&lt;/em&gt; There are more than a few high-profile YouTube woodworkers and makers who have &lt;em&gt;awful&lt;/em&gt; shop-safety practices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to learn to identify who they are and not pick up their bad habits!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Drill bits being driven by a hand drill can too, and much hotter, and it is rare or unheard of for modern bits to be cooled &lt;em&gt;except to make them comfortable enough to change&lt;/em&gt; if the user can't or won't wait for them to air-cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Use your nose, not your eyes, to determine this as there's no mistaking the odour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Although there are seemingly logical explanations about how it can occur it has never been demonstrated to harm the steel in normal grinding operations, and, dipping in water has been standard workshop practice since before any of us were born.... if it did cause a problem someone would have noticed and we'd all know about it by now :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt; Except in thinner material and soft woods. With thicker and tougher material (and 20mm chipboard definitely qualifies) the cutting rate should actually be quite slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-10-15T08:08:23.780" LastActivityDate="2021-10-15T08:08:23.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13181" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-16T19:50:08.620" Score="2" ViewCount="188" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've picked up woodworking as a hobby recently and currently my main learning resource is YouTubers. I've spent a couple hundred bucks on a few cheap power tools (jigsaw, circular saw, sander, drills) and seeing this isn't a &amp;quot;phase&amp;quot; I'm now thinking about getting a good quality miter saw (DeWalt or Bosch).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As part of going deeper into woodworking I want to consider a better laid-out and more professional learning experience (although woodworking will remain a hobby). Either books, specific youtubers you think are worthwhile or other online training programs that are appropriate for my level and tool-set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm better at learning something as I need it, so I rather have something that was also designed as a reference so I can get the things I need instead of going over it start-to-finish, although of course that's not always possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11120" LastEditorUserId="11120" LastEditDate="2021-11-18T14:46:25.183" LastActivityDate="2021-11-18T14:46:25.183" Title="What learning material will you recommend to a novice hobbyist woodworker?" Tags="|technique|power-tools|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13183" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-18T12:57:35.810" Score="3" ViewCount="594" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a large walnut island in my kitchen.  It is not end grain and we do not cut directly on it. It was made and installed 12 years ago. The few knots holes and cracks were filled with either wood putty or melted wax, either way, it never hardened. The initial 'finish' coat was a beeswax cutting board paste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the paste didn't stop water spots from forming and didn't offer great protection from normal wear. I did lots of research and ended up using Rubio Monocoat.  It has low VOCs, is very easy to apply and has worked beautifully.  It does wear off over time and I have reapplied it once and it needs to be done again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has always bothered me that the filler was putty, and soft. I know the craftsman did this because it was easiest to fill these oddly shaped areas with a dark putty.  However, the areas are now sunken in so I would like to make matching filler. Since I have a few small surface scratches, I want to be slightly more aggressive in sanding prior to applying the Monocoat this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which brings me to my question regarding the knot holes and cracks. I usually lightly sand the island, by hand, but plan on carefully using a random orbital sander this time. This will also result in producing sanding dust that I can easily use. Can I use a shellac/wood dust filler over the putty, or should I try to remove the putty before filling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11136" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-10-18T21:29:32.263" LastActivityDate="2021-10-20T00:19:14.783" Title="Can I use a hardening wood filler over softer wood putty on a walnut island?" Tags="|wood|filler|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13184" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-18T13:19:02.307" Score="5" ViewCount="10996" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a cabinet door that broke along one full side at the joint. I glued the joint back together last night, but this morning realized I didn't clamp it to pull the joint in all the way flush (I don't have a bar clamp anyway, probably need one for this). The result is I now have a gap (almost 1/8&amp;quot;), as you can see here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0u6DE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0u6DE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not only does it not look great, but it effectively widens the door so that it probably won't fit into the catch quite right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the full door for reference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FAxmR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FAxmR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are my options for removing the gap and doing this over the right way?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note: I used Titebond original wood glue.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11137" LastActivityDate="2021-10-18T23:53:24.007" Title="How to separate wood I glued together" Tags="|glue|cabinetry|clamps|joints|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13184" CreationDate="2021-10-18T17:47:05.460" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is going to be tricky, since glue joints are stronger than the wood. So be prepared for at least some breakage to occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can get to work immediately there's a chance of working on the glue before it's &lt;em&gt;completely&lt;/em&gt; cured, although overnight drying is enough for almost full strength with most glues of this type in most conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're going to have to either lever this apart (carefully of course&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;) or use any clamp where a head can be reversed to convert it into a spreader. Many modern bar clamps, F-clamps and speed clamps can do this, after the removal of a retaining pin of some sort. Don't push against the knob!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have to lever I'd work primarily from the back and the bottom, where any unavoidable damage will be minimally visible when you're done or could even be filled and painted over if need be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case I wouldn't try to separate this without also doing something else first. &lt;em&gt;The&lt;/em&gt; two things to try are heat and moisture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heat will soften cured PVAs so I would warm the area well with a heat gun if you can, being careful of the finish needless to say. If you don't have a heat gun but do have a hairdryer use it, it's better than nothing. Heating was Franklin's primary advice to help remove dried Titebond Original and II on their old FAQ page&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acetone can also soften these glues, but acetone will attack most paints so it's unlikely you'll be able to make use of it here. Instead you could try just moistening the wood for about 10 minutes ahead of trying to work the stile off. Some users report that vinegar works better for this but I've been unable to find a head-to-head comparison with plain water so this might just be an example of personal voodoo&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I don't have a bar clamp anyway, probably need one for this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously some clamps of sufficient capacity would be very advantageous, and bar clamps are one of the better types to have a stock of when working on large furniture pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you can get this apart without undue damage and need to progress before you get a clamp large enough you can use an old method to providing squeezing force, a 'Spanish windlass'. This is basically a sort of tourniquet using a length of cord or rope wound tight with a piece of wood. They can exert more force than you might expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because this is an already finished piece you will want to protect the surface with folded pieces of heavy cardboard (e.g. from boxes), or small blocks of soft wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Levering against something metal to protect the wood if at all possible. A putty or spackle knife is often used for this, but even an old butter knife or spatula could be used if you have nothing else on hand. If you dent the wood deeply with the levering tool there's a better-than-even chance you won't be able to completely steam the dent out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; This, and much of the information it contained, appears to no longer be on their site for some reason; however thankfully portions of it were immortalised in various forum posts while it was up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; And obviously vinegar is mostly water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-10-18T17:47:05.460" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13183" CreationDate="2021-10-18T18:40:51.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would consider removing the current filler/putty and filling the knots with a colored epoxy. There are tints, &lt;em&gt;described by their distributors as being &amp;quot;food-safe&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt; which are sold specifically to color epoxy for use in countertops, bar tops, etc. although there are many ways to successfully tint or color epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of the coloring agent, a dark-brown/black color would blend nicely with the walnut and be almost unnoticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the epoxy cures, sand and wax/oil as usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2021-10-20T00:19:14.783" LastActivityDate="2021-10-20T00:19:14.783" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13183" CreationDate="2021-10-18T22:05:20.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use a hardening wood filler over softer wood putty on a walnut island?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be much better to remove a soft filler and fill any holes from the bottom up with a hard filler, otherwise you risk the hard filler being undermined by the soft material underneath — sort of like building a house on loose foundations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might just be possible for a hard filler 'cap' to work its way loose in time, after a few cycles of expansion and contraction. I have certainly had shallow fills that didn't bond well to the depression they were in&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; be dislodged during subsequent sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt I can get it totally clean&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not absolutely necessary to get every trace of the original filler out of the holes (and practically, this can be virtually impossible) but do aim for mostly clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the previous filler was any of the usual kinds of wood putties they tend to have a fairly dry and crumbly consistency, so it may not be difficult to remove most of it once you get at it with a pick, awl or other sharp tool!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the bulk of it is gone brush out as much of the debris as you can using stiff brushes, even some fine wire brushes if available (brass or stainless steel are reasonably easy to get these days and very cheap).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if necessary wash the interior with a solvent of some kind if you want to take the cleaning one step further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the previous filler was a wax cleaning with a solvent would be of particular importance since wax is a 'universal resist' and basically nothing will stick to it (other than more wax). You can use mineral spirits, VM&amp;amp;P naphtha or paint thinner if you have any of the three. Don't skimp on the solvent and use plenty of paper towels so you aren't just spreading around the dissolved wax but are actually soaking it up and removing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would you recommend glue and saw dust versus shellac? I thought shellac may work better for this application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glue and wood dust would be preferable to shellac and wood dust for anything but the shallowest defects. In addition to shellac filler material &lt;em&gt;of this kind&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; taking longer to dry for a deeper hole (because the alcohol has to work its way out of the interior before it can evaporate) it will just plain be weaker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go with the DIY filler you're familiar with based on a PVA wood glue it can be coloured a tad darker if you wish with a dab of acrylic paint. Even though the glue &amp;amp; dust fill will naturally be darker anyway (approximating the colour of end grain once the finish goes on) defects in wood do tend to be quite dark, often nearly black, so fills can look best if a good bit darker than the surrounding wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3807/large-hole-filler-products-what-is-available/3809#3809&quot;&gt;Epoxy as the binder material is also an option&lt;/a&gt; but a little more difficult to get flush with the surface because it's &lt;em&gt;so&lt;/em&gt; hard once cured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Either because I didn't prep the surface properly or didn't provide any undercuts for the filler to grip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Commercial shellac fillers (AKA burn-in sticks) are a different thing entirely, very hard and tough, because there's no solvent in them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-10-18T22:05:20.357" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13184" CreationDate="2021-10-18T23:33:50.367" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will most likely be able to cut through the glue with a utility knife (Ofla or similar) using a fresh blade extended so that it's an inch or so longer than the door is thick. Just hold it flush with the wood on one side, angled slightly inwards, and push down hard -- use a slight sawing motion if necessary. You will cut right through the glue, it's strong but quite soft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having done this, use the same technique on the other side of the joint, and pick the lump of glue out so that when you reglue it you don't have the same problem. You don't need a bar-clamp for this -- a ratchet tiedown strap or even a piece of clothesline tied around the width of the door should be more than enough, and the glue you are using should be fine. Just wipe the excess that squeezes out with a wet rag before it fully dries -- or scrape it off with your knife once it's dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11139" LastActivityDate="2021-10-18T23:33:50.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13190" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13195" CreationDate="2021-10-19T10:37:48.720" Score="1" ViewCount="561" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it a good idea to use a router bit intended for flattening surfaces, slabs etc, like this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EcVz1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EcVz1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in a router table? The idea as follows: I attach two parallel bars to the piece I'm going to flatten, then I lift up my bit a little, start a router and move the piece over it. I think that should make the surface flat, assuming I rised a bit enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any points, why it might be not a good idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5232" LastActivityDate="2021-10-20T09:56:39.307" Title="Using surface flattening router bit in a router table" Tags="|router-table|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13190" CreationDate="2021-10-19T12:34:53.157" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two main issues with this approach I can see:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The router bit will be partially exposed on the edges of the work. If you are not careful with finger placement, you might get injured. I would strongly suggest using gripper pads and guiding the work piece from above, rather than the easier (and more tempting) way of holding the work piece by it's edges.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This method will be unwieldy with large work pieces. I would imagine that the trade-off point between move-the-router vs. move-the-work-piece is once the work piece is as big and heavy as the router. But if the piece is that small, why not use a regular jointer/planer (unless you don't have one)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would also need to make sure that the work piece and its &amp;quot;rails&amp;quot; are fully supported by the router table for the entire size of the piece. If the &amp;quot;rails&amp;quot; happen to fall off the table you'd gouge your work piece badly. This would put a fairly small limit to your work piece, being about a quarter in area than your router table size (or at most half if you rotate the work piece around).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, to fully flatten the piece all the way around, you'd need to route into the &amp;quot;rails&amp;quot; as well. This would require the rails to be big and sturdy enough to still support the work piece while the router removes some material from them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2021-10-19T12:34:53.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13190" CreationDate="2021-10-19T17:23:29.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any points, why it might be not a good idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not having used a flattening bit myself, I can't say from direct experience, but there's no reason that it shouldn't work. The main thing you'll need to be careful about, beyond keeping your fingers away from the bit, is to always be aware of where the wood that you're removing is in relation to the bit. If you were to try to do this freehand, by just moving the workpiece over the bit without a fence, it would be very easy to inadvertently make a climb cut, which could cause the workpiece to move suddenly in a direction you don't expect. I'd suggest using your router table's fence and making passes in the usual direction (right to left), and moving the fence a little farther from the bit after each pass. That should ensure that you're always removing stock on the side of the bit that will cause it to pull the work toward the fence rather than push away from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2021-10-19T17:23:29.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13193" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13208" CreationDate="2021-10-19T19:03:06.557" Score="1" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to build cabinets hanging from deck joists. The deck will have a waterproofing system installed so there shouldn't be much (if any water).  What are my options for plywood that can withstand Maryland heat cold (but hopefully little water).  I was told (Baltic) Birch, but I assume that would need to be sealed.  Maybe for this application, I'd need to paint it and Birch would not be the way to go?  Any Suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11147" LastActivityDate="2021-10-22T07:45:07.233" Title="Exterior Plywood that looks relatively nice" Tags="|plywood|cabinetry|water-protection|pressure-treated|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13190" CreationDate="2021-10-20T09:56:39.307" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it's not a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can of course chuck this style of bit into a router mounted in a table and I can envisage some potential uses for it&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, but &lt;em&gt;to then use it for the intended purpose&lt;/em&gt; — flattening an end-grain cutting board — would be a bad idea for multiple reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first two relate to control of the workpiece, and the consequences if you lose it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most important is personal safety. You don't know if or when the router bit will grab the board and try to snatch it from you, and with a bit this large the amount of grab could be very high indeed. Where are your hands intended to go and is one potentially in the path the router is trying to take it if this happens? And it could project the workpiece towards the operator, not away, leading to a kickback-like injury to your torso.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second concerns the wellbeing of the workpiece. You'll be working blind, so you can't see in real time what the bit is doing and whether a problem is occurring &lt;em&gt;that can't be heard but only seen&lt;/em&gt;. And how do you check progress? Unless you plan to turn the router off and let it spin down&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;em&gt;every single time&lt;/em&gt; you want to inspect you'll be lifting off or pulling back the board while the router is running..... exposing a large and very dangerous bit sticking up unguarded from the table, so personal safety strike two! And then you have to put the workpiece back down carefully and push it back into position (still working blind remember) until the bit unexpectedly re-engages with the work. It even sound scary in words.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above really overshadow anything else, but additional issues relate to the parallel bars you're envisaging using, including how they'll be attached to the board, how you'd ensure they are parallel to each other and then parallel the opposite face of the board. While these difficulties can undoubtedly be resolved it's a lot of futzing about when the stated goal is to make the job easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And there is already an established way to do what you're seeking to do that's quite straightforward and much safer (plus it is rewarding watching the progress).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use a router sled&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;A router sled is the way to do this. In addition to being possibly the same amount of work overall there are so many advantages to doing it this way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can see what you're doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The bit is safely away from operator on the underside of the tool, not poking up through the router table and completely unshielded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can see what you're doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The workpiece is fixed in place in some way so it can't go anywhere unexpectedly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can see what you're doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It &lt;em&gt;automatically&lt;/em&gt; ensures the surface you're working on ends up parallel to the opposite face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;And did I mention you can see what you're doing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And to top it off, the time and material you invest into making your sled pay off over time since now you have a tool that can be used again and again to do the same sort of job with very little setup time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Faster forming of tenons on large workpieces for one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Subjectively this can take A Long Time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-10-20T09:56:39.307" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13196" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-20T11:37:47.243" Score="1" ViewCount="345" Body="&lt;p&gt;How To fasten rubberwood desktop to electric motorized steel base, in easy detach/ knock-down way using Fasteners? e.g. Wood inserts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm designing &amp;amp; putting together a workstation desk with the following traits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Electric motorized (lift capacity: 120 kg) &amp;amp; heavy Steel frame base (30kg)&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Its a knock-down design put together using hex key-driven M6 M8 &amp;amp; few M10 bolts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rubberwood desk/ tabletop&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So for consistency with the above &amp;amp; need for easy disassembly, I'd prefer to use similar metric bolts&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hence, I'm considering attaching the top with metric bolts from the bottom, &lt;em&gt;through the pass through layers of a steel base and a rubber cushion spacer + washer&lt;/em&gt; (&lt;strong&gt;Total: ~11mm&lt;/strong&gt;), into matching threaded inserts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Upon reading online the insert types I found are these and am told that top left thread-in types for hardwood would be suitable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Commenters/ responders here have posted there are special types of other better Fasteners. I'd like to know, review them for additional &amp;quot;holding power&amp;quot; and related benefits they bring.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pcY3R.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pcY3R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;4 types &quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rubberwood top is &lt;strong&gt;18mm&lt;/strong&gt; thick &amp;amp; pass through non-wood layers (&lt;strong&gt;~11mm&lt;/strong&gt;). I do not know the final dimensions of the top, but assume a rectangle roughly 1m wide and under 2m long. &lt;em&gt;[The OP is free to update these dimensions as necessary --jdv]&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;(OP: Size subject to change but within above &amp;amp; hence need insert for detachability)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main questions are about the fasteners/ inserts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is the safe maximum depth the inserts can be made into the rubberwood?&lt;/strong&gt; Will this material hold inserts at all?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Which insert style is recommended in this application?&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What special type of fasteners supersede wood inserts I've mentioned so far&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Follow-on question: &lt;strong&gt;Does the size of the bolt (M6, M8, M10, etc.) and matching insert matter for this application?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Update Follow-up to this Question:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Noticed a lot of variety of combinations even in threaded inserts of the hardwood type: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BZaeb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Self tapping (advise by jdv), Slotted, 3 holes/ blind holes, collar, Hex, Reservoir, etc.&#xA;(Pic from some German site)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Image is big so linked, but can be inserted if SE folks ok - Or should these slot/ holes/ etc meta parameters go to a new Q?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What pros cons of these in my scenario and what's recommended or to avoid? Why bother asking all this?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scouted a dozen mom &amp;amp; pop hardware shops I went to did not have any.(Nothing like Home Depot).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do see some of the above variety on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.indiamart.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;local business yellow pages listing site&lt;/a&gt;, so they do exist &amp;amp; have to be found, but they don't respond to me/ consumers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll eventually run into and find some variants, just not sure which ones - hence, I need to know the &amp;quot;yes, okay, maybe, avoid, no way&amp;quot; of some of the common types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;High Res measurement pics:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the layers I want to sandwich together:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vpSLw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vpSLw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image 2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The metal and rubber layers:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zKB1z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zKB1z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image 1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Width of the rubber washer:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZHEXA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZHEXA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image 3&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1064" LastEditorUserId="1064" LastEditDate="2021-10-25T18:11:35.687" LastActivityDate="2021-10-25T18:11:35.687" Title="How To fasten rubberwood desktop to electric motorized steel base, in easy detach/ knock-down way using Fasteners? e.g. Wood inserts?" Tags="|wood|hardwood|hardware-identification|hardware|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="33" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13198" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-20T14:53:24.927" Score="0" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to make some relatively large boxes for tools (currently one for a bunch of air tools, and one for a router, plunge base, and bunch of bits) out of 1/2&amp;quot; (~12mm) baltic birch plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sides will be joined with glued box joints, but I'm a bit unsure about attaching the bottom. My original plan was to cut a 1/4&amp;quot; (~6mm) deep groove about 1/2&amp;quot; up from the bottom on each side and end and inset the bottom panel (also 1/2&amp;quot; plywood) in that, much like a drawer bottom but glued in place. The other option is just to do a flush bottom glued in place and reinforced with some brad nails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially... thoughts on how the strength would compare between:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a glued bottom set into a 1/4&amp;quot; deep groove, 1/2&amp;quot; up from the bottom&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a flush bottom glued inside the sides/ends and then reinforced with some brad nails&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9238" LastActivityDate="2021-10-20T20:19:22.090" Title="Attachment method for heavy duty plywood box" Tags="|plywood|boxes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13196" CreationDate="2021-10-20T17:16:13.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question at hand is &amp;quot;how deep should I make a hole in relatively soft wood for a blind insert for an M-sized bolt?&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good rule of thumb is don't remove more than 2/3rds the material in any given dimension when doing joinery. It isn't a hard and fast rule, but a nice start. In this case it'll work just fine because nothing here is critical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The follow-on question, which size of M bolt to use is up to you. You want to choose the size appropriate for the entire dimension of the panel, with larger being better for shear and tensile strength. But your main challenge will be getting good thread engagement at such shallow depths, since it'll be the threads giving you that tensile strength. As long as you can safely move the item by gripping the panel this will probably work. But depending on the entire dimensions you may find that only 6 points of contact mean threads rip out easily no matter what.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this wood use the screw-in self-tapping inserts, with or without glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choosing more expensive fasteners made out of tougher material might be required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Allowing for panel movement will be necessary in most cases. For this design that'll mean slotted holes in the metal along the axis where the panel is across the grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, much of this is application driven. How strong does this have to be? If this is just a big table then typical installation and typical fasteners will be fine, even with only 1/3 fastener thread engagement. But maybe you need to be sure? In which case you can epoxy the inserts, use larger inserts designed to engage more fully with the material, and use fasteners with finer threads and higher strength (and, if possible, maximize your thread engagement).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;A word on failure modes&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two failure modes here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The inserts tear out of their self-tapped threaded holes. The weakest part of any metal-to-wood contact (or, indeed, any good glue joint) are the wood fibres around that contact. This is the most likely failure if the top is lifted too many times or if the frame is very heavy; the inserts will simply rip out. You could also tear them out simply by torquing the bolts down enough, as the leverage of threads is almost certainly stronger than the insert-to-wood joint. This can be somewhat mitigated by also using some sort of glue when installing the inserts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The metal threads in either the insert or the bolt fail, either because the material weakens, or is fatigued because of a thread-mismatch or cross-threading, or simple mechanical fatigue. Larger fasteners don't necessarily have larger threads, and most of the stress is going to be on the threads fully engaged in the insert. It is possible that these threads will let go from stress, or strip out over time if they are removed and replaced often. This is unlikely in normal use, but it is possible. There are a lot of cheaply made bolts out there that often have poor threads or use metal with poor strength. If this table was subject to a fair amount of vibration you can apply thread-locker to the bolt threads when installing them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-10-20T19:37:55.760" LastActivityDate="2021-10-20T19:37:55.760" CommentCount="18" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13198" CreationDate="2021-10-20T20:19:22.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think your answer is 1 because inside a groove the wood must break for the bottom to fall. It seems all strong drawers for kitchens, usually made of weaker particleboard in Europe, are made this way. I don't know the weight of a bunch of air tools but many cooking pots must be more than a router, base and bits. My sister has collected cast iron pans and her deep drawer must hold greater than 20 kilos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option 2 is probably ok however. I would use strong nails as I do not own a nailer, but many brads must be as strong as a few nails and the glue will add much strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastActivityDate="2021-10-20T20:19:22.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13201" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13203" CreationDate="2021-10-20T21:30:10.177" Score="0" ViewCount="251" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am refinishing a floor, but there is new maple being installed alongside 20 year old maple. The problem with this that the old maple, even after it is sanded, will probably be a little darker than the new maple. Is there a way to tint the new maple to more closely match the aged patina of the old wood, so that when we refinish everything comes out the same shade?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2021-10-21T06:19:02.467" Title="Darken new wood for refinishing to match existing older wood?" Tags="|refinishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1545" CreationDate="2021-10-21T04:23:55.437" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve built a lot of cedar furniture from rough logged trees. The absolute best way I’ve found is to use a gasoline powered pressure washer with a “turbo” tip. Gets into all crevices and can get rid of the bark down to smooth as glass finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11153" LastActivityDate="2021-10-21T04:23:55.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13201" CreationDate="2021-10-21T06:19:02.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you are right, the old maple will be darker than new maple after refinish. Problem will be less with water-base finish than with oil-base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have faced this problem many times on restoration of ash and beech wood. If I add patch of new wood colors can be similar after sanding but old wood is darkened much more by finish, even shellack. Linseed oil darkens much more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dye or stain is immediate fix, maybe you won't like it in some years. If you dye new wood to color of old wood new will become darker in 5-10 yrs: dye + age + finish vs. age + finish. And I understand that maple dyes unexpectedly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Possible solution&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solution when you cannot wait for light to have its effect naturally which takes too long, you can age the new wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Antiques books speak of using wood ash water to make new wood look old. Also sometimes used to make fakes! You cannot buy wood ash any longer I think and making from scratch is not reliable. But chemistry informs us this makes alkali solution so we may use sodium carbonate Na&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;CO&lt;sub&gt;3&lt;/sub&gt; instead and it can be purchased anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know how effective this works on maple you will have to test on scrap pieces. I have used it on pines, fir, oak and some type of mahogany and all become darker. Works better on hardwoods, and bonus for mahogany it becomes more red. Dilution or number of coats control effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastActivityDate="2021-10-21T06:19:02.467" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13196" CreationDate="2021-10-21T07:55:27.087" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Edit for the new information that this &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; a knockdown (K/D) project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This probably does require the use of threaded inserts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Although you can thread wood directly&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; inserts are intended to provide very durable threading for machine screws/bolts in wood and other softer materials, allowing for &lt;em&gt;regular and repeated&lt;/em&gt; adjustments over time, especially &lt;em&gt;under heavy load&lt;/em&gt;, or for complete removal and reinsertion of the fasteners as might be needed for knockdown furniture, especially if frequent disassembly is going to be needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You haven't asked about this but as mentioned already in the Comments it is an important factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Allowance for wood movement&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The key thing with any tabletop made from solid wood is to allow for seasonal movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All solid wood experiences seasonal expansion and contraction perpendicular to the grain direction, see previous Answer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5871/which-direction-does-wood-expand/5877#5877&quot;&gt;which direction does wood expand?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For any type of glued-up panel — regardless if made from many smaller pieces&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; or two or more wider boards — or single very wide boards, where the width is approximately 460mm (~18&amp;quot;) you need to start considering movement. At widths in excess of 600mm (24&amp;quot;) some allowance usually becomes vital. &lt;em&gt;The wider the tabletop the more allowance is needed.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what we have been told up to to this point there may or may not be enough allowance naturally available in this desk due to the size of the holes in the metal frame. Note that the smaller the machine screws used here the more allowance is built it, because it leaves more space around each fastener — approximately 12-13mm for each &lt;em&gt;pair&lt;/em&gt; of screws if M6 are used, based on the stated size of the holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2720/will-these-table-legs-support-this-table/2731#2731&quot;&gt;previous Answer&lt;/a&gt; for a little more on how you would normally attach a solid-wood tabletop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't build in some allowance for movement the table could experience serious problems. Normally the issues are breakage or tearing out of the screws, or warping or cracking of the tabletop. Here there's also a chance the steel framework could be distorted because the pressure exerted by expanding or shrinking wood can be considerable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Threads in wood are of course more durable in some harder hardwoods, e.g. maple, but they can work even in softwoods and weak hardwoods like poplar. In softer or more crumbly woods (which includes some good hardwoods) the threading can be substantially reinforced by dribbling in some superglue into the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; These smaller pieces may be called staves, hence &amp;quot;stave construction&amp;quot; although regrettably this is now most commonly, and incorrectly, sold as &amp;quot;butcher block&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-10-25T11:14:26.497" LastActivityDate="2021-10-25T11:14:26.497" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13206" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13207" CreationDate="2021-10-21T18:08:33.417" Score="5" ViewCount="525" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the differences between Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF) and Medium Density Overlay (MDO)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In woodworking circles, MDF seems to be much maligned, yet MDO seems to be rather highly praised. Based on the names, at least, it seems that they are, at the core, essentially the same thing. Does the &amp;quot;overlay&amp;quot; really make such a difference that it takes a mediocre-at-best product and elevate it to the top of the pile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2023-09-23T18:06:12.493" Title="What is the difference between MDF and MDO?" Tags="|wood|wood-selection|mdf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13206" CreationDate="2021-10-21T20:10:27.763" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularmechanics.com/home/a34305202/what-is-mdf/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MDF is Medium Density Fiberboard&lt;/a&gt; and it's made by essentially combining resins with sawdust and compressing it into a fairly dense, extremely flat and smooth sheet. In general it can be worked like &amp;quot;regular&amp;quot; wood but it's heavier (because of the density) and tends to not hold screws as well as &amp;quot;real&amp;quot; wood. It isn't very pretty and has no &lt;em&gt;grain&lt;/em&gt; but it can be painted well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MDF isn't really a &amp;quot;mediocre&amp;quot; product, but it has it's advantages and limitations like any other product and doesn't exactly &amp;quot;shine&amp;quot; when used in a way that's outside its capabilities. MDF can not tolerate moisture at all (although they make &amp;quot;waterproof&amp;quot; versions that do fairly well.) I think the biggest reason why woodworkers don't like it is because it's really messy to work with. It makes a lot of fine dust when sawed or drilled, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DSDNx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DSDNx.png&quot; alt=&quot;Stolen from Wood Magazine via Google Image Search&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.toledoplywood.com/product-category/categories/exterior-plywood/sign-board-mdo/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MDO is &amp;quot;real&amp;quot; plywood with a thin sheet of resin paper, plastic, or metal&lt;/a&gt; that is bonded to one or both sides to provide a smooth working face. In this case, the &amp;quot;O&amp;quot; stands for &lt;em&gt;overlay.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MDO is sometimes called &lt;em&gt;signboard&lt;/em&gt; because sign painters (used to) use it for creating exterior, hand-painted signs, and so forth. It tends to handle moisture/water much better than MDF (which MDF is really, really, really bad at) so its good for exterior projects. It paints well, but its more expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both are well-suited to &amp;quot;shop&amp;quot; projects and so forth because neither is particularly &amp;quot;pretty&amp;quot;. You wouldn't necessarily use either for show surfaces of &amp;quot;fine&amp;quot; furniture in most situations. But I usually cover the surfaces of my workbenches with MDF to take advantage of the density/weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also MDF-core plywood which feature an MDF core overlayed with veneer sheets which makes it appear like &amp;quot;regular&amp;quot; plywood. The advantage to this product is that it tends to be (and stay) flatter than other plywood while still taking stain, etc. like the &amp;quot;real stuff&amp;quot;. It is heavier though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As pointed out in the commentary, by Caleb, there are also products known as HDF and HDO, where the H is for “high” rather than medium. HDO is tough stuff — often used for concrete forms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2023-09-15T12:28:49.300" LastActivityDate="2023-09-15T12:28:49.300" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13193" CreationDate="2021-10-22T07:45:07.233" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Converting my Comments above into an Answer as per a request.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was told (Baltic) Birch, but I assume that would need to be sealed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it's not sold to be used outdoors, if there'd be no direct weather on them then Baltic birch is actually an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if there's the least chance of rain getting blown under there during a storm, or even splashes off the ground during heavy rainfall, you really do need to go with an exterior-rated plywood for longevity, &lt;em&gt;unless you finish them suitably&lt;/em&gt;. If finished well you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; actually use birch ply with direct exposure to the weather, as mentioned in some posts online, e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?260264-Is-it-OK-to-use-Baltic-Birch-for-outside-projects&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; on SawmillCreek.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing is, the only reason to use Baltic birch ply is to see it, unless you're just using up offcuts of course :-) It's made to be seen, and that's one of the things we're paying for when we get it, so it's completely wasted if you paint it. You've paid a premium (sometimes a very high premium) for no reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I think you'd be much better off with something else. Proper exterior-rated plywoods like MDO, WBP ply (water and boil proof, means literally what it says) and marine-grade ply may all be cheaper than Baltic birch, which is a cabinet-grade plywood. In addition you probably won't have to finish it for this use case, so cheaper up front, you'd save on buying finish and save the time a thorough finishing job would take&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. So multiple reasons to choose something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honourable mention: OSB. This is definitely worth considering if you either like the look (some people absolutely hate it and for them the three letters stand for something else LOL) or this project isn't highly visible so appearance is of secondary importance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This video from Fix This Build That, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eBbUByyLGVc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;5 Mistakes Buying Plywood - Don't Waste Your Money!&lt;/a&gt; was posted just a couple of days before you posted your Question. It sort of skips past exterior ply but as it reflects current pricing it's worth a quick look, and it gives a taster of what's available from common sources, the quality you can expect and the variation there can be in a single category..... as well as from sheet to sheet. So perhaps the number one take-home from it is actually to bring gloves, put 'em on when you get to the stacks and move sheets&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; until you find something you want to spend money on!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Not to be underestimated. Primer coat, possible touch-up primer coat after inspection for holidays (missed spots), then perhaps three coats of your chosen exterior paint. That's five days start to finish, if you have an hour plus available to devote to this on five consecutive days. Aaaand then you should let the paint dry and partially cure for at least a week more. Realistically this might add two weeks to the schedule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; There's a tip on that too :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-10-22T07:45:07.233" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13196" CreationDate="2021-10-22T14:09:36.570" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would thread holes into tabletop because I know this is strong enough because wood screws are strong enough for same purpose, and there is no insert. But if you choose inserts here is my answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Allowance for wood movement to be addressed.&lt;/strong&gt; We are not yet sure if this is needed or how much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No need for more than &lt;strong&gt;M6&lt;/strong&gt; as these are already so strong. Wood screws to attach table tops are usually thinner and the hold is weaker!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brass or steel does not matter. Both strong enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flat head or hex drive does not matter, just 2 styles. No difference in strength. Hex easier to fit clean because driver size is exact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want screws min 5-6mm from surface, so 12 or 13mm inserts max. But 10mm no problem and more safe. You will not use all threads anyway. Be exact when you drill holes!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For metric coarse, pitch = advancement. Pitch of M6 is 1mm so every revolution = 1mm deeper. Gives &lt;strong&gt;M6 x 20mm&lt;/strong&gt; max [11mm pass through metal frame and rubber rings + 9mm engagement in insert for 1mm clearance from bottom]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Minimum 4 threads engaged is strong enough, so &lt;strong&gt;M6 x 16mm&lt;/strong&gt; no problem if closest size available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastActivityDate="2021-10-22T14:09:36.570" CommentCount="23" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13211" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-23T15:09:19.073" Score="1" ViewCount="1738" Body="&lt;p&gt;I applied 1 coat of Minwax gel stain in mahogany to a coffee table, waited 24 hours and then applied a 2nd coat of gel stain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Waited 3 days for the gel stain to cure and I'm now ready for a topcoat. The can suggests using either Water Based Oil-Modified Polyurethane or Fast-Drying Polyurethane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the difference between the 2 polyurethanes and which would be better because I am using the mahogany color stain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11163" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-10-23T18:32:11.817" LastActivityDate="2021-10-25T16:20:12.587" Title="After using Minwax gel stain in Mahogany... which top coat ? Minwax Water Based Oil-Modified Polyurethane or Minwax Fast-Drying Polyurethane?" Tags="|finishing|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13211" CreationDate="2021-10-23T18:09:33.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the difference between the 2 polyurethanes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One is waterbased and the other is oil-based. Both dry 'fast', one because it's waterbased and these finishes tend to dry fast by their nature, the second because it's formulated specifically to &lt;em&gt;make&lt;/em&gt; it dry faster than it would otherwise (oil-based varnishes tending to dry fairly slowly, even in ideal conditions).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to get a more complete picture of the differences is to read the full product descriptions on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.minwax.com/wood-products/clear-protective-finishes/interior/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Minwax site&lt;/a&gt;, as well as the directions for use since application and cleanup specifics are as important or more than qualities of the dried finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and which would be better because I am using the Mahogany color stain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As both are recommended by the maker as equally suitable I think you can take it that they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also neither can be definitely said to be better in the sense that this is partially a judgement call for each user to make for themselves, based on their own criteria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some people the drying time of the waterbased one will be the sole determinant of what's the best choice &lt;em&gt;for them&lt;/em&gt;, as they simply don't want to wait 4-6 hours to put on each successive coat of Fast-Drying Polyurethane. Others will pick the waterbased one simply because they don't want to work with solvent-borne finishes for whatever reasons&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; (and for the same reason they would probably have initially picked some other means to colour the wood). Still others will go with the Fast-Drying Polyurethane because they don't trust waterbased finishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Behind door number 3&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Since you apparently haven't bought yet may I recommend you actually choose a third option: something else, i.e. a product from someone else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Minwax by and large are the lowest rung on the ladder of finish providers, which is often reflected by its price&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, and you'd benefit in a number of ways from trying out products from other makers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I won't recommend a specific product as it's up to you to choose the type of finish you want to work with for starters, and then look at what's available (locally or via an online supplier&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;), has good reviews (ones you can trust), and that you find affordable. I will say that both Varathane and General Finishes make superior products to Minwax probably across the board, and either or both may be available from the same vendors that stock Minwax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Maybe they hate the smell of organic solvents, maybe they hate cleaning brushes after using an oil-based finish (and it is often a chore to do it really thoroughly), maybe there's a baby or young child in the house and they don't want to take the chance with a high-VOC finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; After all how often do we expect the best product, or even a reasonably good one, to be the cheapest on the market?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; One that isn't currently experiencing delivery delays LOL&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2021-10-25T16:20:12.587" LastActivityDate="2021-10-25T16:20:12.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4116" CreationDate="2021-10-24T19:13:12.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had the same perplexing problem with my Rigid 10&amp;quot; miter saw. Looking at the possible reasons for the blade never completing the cut--always leaving a 1/16&amp;quot; nub to be broken off--I was convinced the metal pin functioning as the stop when the saw slid away from me was the culprit. I was right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The housing through which the two sliding tubes run and into which the stop pin inserts itself has a thin cover plate on the back of it. I took it off; the entire cavity was packed with compacted sawdust. The stop pin was blocked, and so kept the saw from completing its cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11169" LastActivityDate="2021-10-24T19:13:12.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13214" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13216" CreationDate="2021-10-25T18:51:36.797" Score="3" ViewCount="371" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on cherry drawer fronts for a dresser with inset drawers. The drawer in question is 38&amp;quot; wide and about 8&amp;quot; tall. The drawer itself is 1/2 Baltic Birch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The board has already been cut to size, including thickness, but I discovered that it had a twist when testing the fit for the final thickness (I should have caught it sooner. Lesson learned in rushing the milling process...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thickness is approximately 5/8&amp;quot;, and the twist causes one corner to stick out about 1/8&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the board is already thicknessed, my question is: would it be ok to clamp it flat to the drawer and use additional screws to hold it flat? I was thinking just two screws per drawer front, but for this one thought maybe four or six would hold it flat and prevent the twist from coming back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, using a new board could be a last resort option, but all of the drawer fronts are currently from the same board, so color/grain match won't be as perfect as they are now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen other solutions regarding steam usage (particularly &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/q/1500/7973&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;), but I wonder if the steam is necessary when a few additional screws may do the job. Or if I should use both steam and extra screws since most steam suggestions also warn against it re-twisting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is only my 3rd furniture project, so I'm still at the stage where this problem could be a big deal, or no deal at all, I just don't have the experience to know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7973" LastEditorUserId="7973" LastEditDate="2021-10-27T18:25:26.810" LastActivityDate="2021-10-27T18:25:26.810" Title="Will forcing a twisted drawer front flat cause issues?" Tags="|warp|drawer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13215" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-26T13:06:13.897" Score="0" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any ratios conventions on how Bolts are partially threaded vs shank left as is? Naming/ numbering/ notations to recognize offline/ find them online?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. Looking to see if there commonly exists M6 - 18 /20 mm length 8/10mm threaded, rest 10mm shank?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: Nice guides, but no info on how the 2 aspects (thread vs not) get set up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/measuring/notation.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/measuring/notation.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Type-Chart.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Type-Chart.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1064" LastActivityDate="2021-10-27T16:32:58.867" Title="Any ratios conventions on how Bolts are partially threaded vs shank left as is? Naming/ numbering/ notations to recognize offline/ find them online?" Tags="|hardware-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="19" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13214" CreationDate="2021-10-27T08:14:59.360" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will forcing a twisted drawer front flat cause issues?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a try-it-and-see thing. You have to check whether your drawer front has enough strength&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; to distort your plywood drawer. With luck this'll work fine and you can proceed as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're unlucky and test-clamping the front to the drawer body does distort it you'll either have to attempt remedial action on the board (i.e. unwarp it, &lt;em&gt;and hope it stays that way&lt;/em&gt;), or make a new front, as I don't think you can easily beef up the drawer box enough to make it immune to being forced out of square, although this is possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For any future searchers unfamiliar, this relates to what I think are now most commonly called false-front drawers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MthKW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MthKW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;False-fronted drawers&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic idea is you build a drawer box — four sides and a bottom — and then (usually later, after the drawer is installed in the cabinet or carcass) the &amp;quot;false&amp;quot; or decorative front is attached, usually with screws from inside&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Based on the amount of warp and the thickness of the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; This type of construction used to be rare (back in the days of all-dovetail drawer construction) but is now extremely common, especially in factory-made furniture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-10-27T08:14:59.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13217" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-27T13:41:17.717" Score="2" ViewCount="1453" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note, this is not for exterior use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We bought an old Buffet and converted it into a vanity for our bathroom remodel. At the time we thought it was a good idea to seal it with a waterproof sealer and selected a deck sealer at Home Depot to accomplish that task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have yet to get to the point where we are installing the vanity in the bathroom, but while it has been sitting in the garage, I have noted that the surface is slightly tacky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also observed that a separate dresser that we rehabilitated and coated with polyurethane has a smooth glossy finish that is not tacky at all and seems to be waterproof(?). So we would like that on that vanity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, Can we put a coat of polyurethane on top of the deck-sealer-treated Vanity? I.e. Will the polyurethane adhere to the vanity? Should we lightly sand it before application? Or is there another way to get the nice smooth glossy non-tacky finish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, why would the deck sealer treated vanity be tacky in the first place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;UPDATE&lt;/em&gt;: OK, here is the stain and the waterproofing sealer that was used. My wife doesn't remember how many coats she applied. She actually disagrees with me calling it &amp;quot;slightly tacky&amp;quot; and says I should describe it as &amp;quot;if something sets on it awhile, it can very slightly stick to the surface&amp;quot;. She says that's not &amp;quot;tacky&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LKy3n.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LKy3n.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sealer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rLQgt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rLQgt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;stain&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11184" LastEditorUserId="11184" LastEditDate="2021-10-28T15:15:35.130" LastActivityDate="2021-10-28T19:05:09.817" Title="Can you apply polyurethane on top of wood that has been treated with a deck sealer?" Tags="|finishing|finish-selection|polyurethane|varnish|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13215" CreationDate="2021-10-27T16:32:58.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To sum up the long discussion in comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you've discovered in your searching, there is no standard naming convention for the amount of unthreaded portion of a screw or bolt. There is probably no standard amount of unthreaded portion between manufacturers, and likely not standard within a single manufacturer when comparing screws to bolts and different styles of bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you're an engineer designing and ordering a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; large quantity of bolts that need to meet specific requirements for the assembly of a specific item, you simply buy a screw or bolt that meets your requirement of length, diameter, and pitch (particularly for machine screws or bolts/nuts). If it happens to have an unthreaded portion, it does, if it doesn't, it doesn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, as always, there's an &lt;a href=&quot;https://xkcd.com/927&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;XKCD&lt;/a&gt; for everything:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AJqAt.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AJqAt.png&quot; alt=&quot;XKCD #927 - standards proliferation&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2021-10-27T16:32:58.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13217" CreationDate="2021-10-28T19:05:09.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you apply polyurethane on top of wood that has been treated with a deck sealer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As noted in the Comments &amp;quot;deck sealer&amp;quot; is a catch-all descriptor for a range of dissimilar products that are just sold to do (roughly) the same job, but not in the same way. Some are penetrating oil finishes akin to &amp;quot;Danish oil&amp;quot;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;; some are waxy penetrating finishes; some are film finishes, including the Behr one you used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Behr's product page for &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.behr.com/consumer/products/wood-stains-finishes-cleaners-and-strippers/transparent-wood-finishes/behr-premium-transparent-waterproofing-wood-finish/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Transparent Waterproofing Wood Finish&lt;/a&gt; describes it as a 100% acrylic formulation, so there are no waxes or non-drying oils to worry about that would interfere with bonding of either waterbased or oil-based polyurethane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You ask in a Comment whether you should lightly sand and the answer is basically yes. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/13069&quot;&gt;recent Q&amp;amp;A&lt;/a&gt; which covers overcoating existing finishes; in short you want the surface clean and matt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be inclined to strip this and begin from scratch, but you &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; have to. Stripping is a tedious, messy job that you'll hate doing but I think ultimately it will give you a better result, both visually and endurance-wise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good news is you can easily preview your results without incurring any penalty — test the poly on a small area of an inconspicuous or less-critical surface of the vanity, prepped as you will prep the rest of it (i.e. cleaned and lightly scuffed up), and see how it goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it looks good and the poly dries nicely you should be good to go. If unfortunately it doesn't you should strip back and begin again, if you want to use poly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Another option&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Given the deck sealer is made to be so waterproof and the slightly tacky surface is the only real issue you have with it you could just wax it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wax increases sheen, improves beading, and it should solve the slight pressure-sensitive tackiness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend using a commercial paste wax here, such as the venerable Johnson Paste Wax, and not a wax-based liquid polish&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; So a heavily thinned mixture of oil and varnish with lots of driers added to ensure fast drying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Because the latter may contain oils as well as waxes (making them an inferior product), but may also be formulated with solvents that could attack the acrylic deck sealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-10-28T19:05:09.817" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13220" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-28T22:47:01.833" Score="4" ViewCount="1904" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi everyone I'm just wondering what is the standard for treating playground wood in a safe way for kids such as in this picture?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3eHK1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3eHK1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done a bit of searching but I can't find anything conclusive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11195" LastActivityDate="2021-10-29T07:26:02.073" Title="How is playground wood treated?" Tags="|wood-selection|water-protection|outdoor|pressure-treated|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13220" CreationDate="2021-10-28T23:52:48.640" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The equipment in your picture may be coated with a couple coats of an oil-based, penetrating stain. Or it may be just bare wood. Cedar and redwood, for example, stand up to weather very well on their own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much other playground equipment is made from regular pressure-treated lumber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before the early 2000s pressure treating lumber involved arsenic, but since then arsenic has been replaced with copper compounds which are said to be completely safe according to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.daycare.com/story/arsenic.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;government&lt;/a&gt; and playground manufacturer industry groups, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-10-29T07:18:11.983" LastActivityDate="2021-10-29T07:18:11.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13220" CreationDate="2021-10-29T05:42:07.030" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Much construction of playground equipment uses pressure-treated softwood (wood from conifer trees).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Current treatment of choice is ACQ (alkaline copper quaternary) but there is also CA (copper azole), SBX (sodium borate), and MCQ (micronized copper quaternary). In America the species most commonly treated is southern yellow pine. In other parts of the world it is usually other species of pine or fir, in Canada western hemlock is also common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KvdaN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KvdaN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First clue is that it is 2x or 'two by' material, 1x6, 2x4, 4x4 etc. same as you get from any lumber source. Other than the usual profiles usually you can easily identify such wood by eye because softwood has obvious light/dark grain patterns. And often &lt;strong&gt;many&lt;/strong&gt; knots may be present! This wood may have an artificial greenish or brownish colouring from pressure treatment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some elements in the playground photo are made from such material, visible above the round table on the left of the image. Also the blackboard frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other elements in this photo are not pressure-treated wood. The sawn log on the ground 100% because bark is never left on during treatment, but the standing logs are also very unlikely because I think they never treat natural-shaped logs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The logs possibly are species naturally resistant to decay outdoors, there are a few such species in the US, including white oak, black locust and sassafras.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For dry and hot climates decay-resistant species may not be necessary to give long life because water is needed for decay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/lumber/outdoor-lumber&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;9 mighty woods for outdoor projects&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularmechanics.com/home/outdoor-projects/how-to/a3103/your-guide-to-working-with-pressure-treated-lumber-15655848/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Your Guide to Working With Pressure-Treated Lumber&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-10-29T07:26:02.073" LastActivityDate="2021-10-29T07:26:02.073" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13223" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13224" CreationDate="2021-10-29T13:50:52.660" Score="1" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;On something like a drill press, how is a straight shank arbor retained and engaged? I don't see a clear way that this is accomplished from photos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kgMFX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kgMFX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://allindustrial.com/all-industrial-49623-1-2-to-6jt-straight-shank-drill-chuck-hardened-jt6-jacobs-taper/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://allindustrial.com/all-industrial-49623-1-2-to-6jt-straight-shank-drill-chuck-hardened-jt6-jacobs-taper/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11177" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-10-31T17:34:38.930" LastActivityDate="2021-11-20T11:40:42.297" Title="How is a straight arbor retained and engaged on a drill press?" Tags="|drill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13223" CreationDate="2021-10-29T19:00:39.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On something like a drill press, how is a straight shank arbor retained and engaged?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's meant to be held in a collet or tool holder for a milling machine. The shank is 1/2&amp;quot;, which is a common size for an end mill. Here's &lt;a href=&quot;https://cdn0.grizzly.com/pics/jpeg288/t/t25713.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a tool holder for a 1/2&amp;quot; end mill&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://cdn0.grizzly.com/pics/jpeg288/t/t25713.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://cdn0.grizzly.com/pics/jpeg288/t/t25713.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;grizzly nt40 mill holder&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the description for the arbor you linked to says &amp;quot;no drawbar.&amp;quot; A drawbar is a mechanism for pulling a tool holder into a milling machine's spindle, so they're clearly speaking to a milling machine-using audience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2021-10-29T19:00:39.393" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7078" CreationDate="2021-10-30T19:08:40.040" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Search on Peter Follansbee -- he specializes in using 17th century methods to make furniture. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lie-nielsen.com/nodes/4243/home-education-videos&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.lie-nielsen.com/nodes/4243/home-education-videos&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He has published some books:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://lostartpress.com/collections/books/products/joiners-work&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://lostartpress.com/collections/books/products/joiners-work&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://lostartpress.com/collections/books/products/make-a-joint-stool-from-a-tree&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://lostartpress.com/collections/books/products/make-a-joint-stool-from-a-tree&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;His  mentor, Jenny Alexander, got him started in that direction with her book &amp;quot;Make a chair from a tree&amp;quot;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.lostartpress.com/2018/09/13/news-make-a-chair-from-a-tree-third-edition-and-video/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://blog.lostartpress.com/2018/09/13/news-make-a-chair-from-a-tree-third-edition-and-video/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no experience with their techniques or their books, I've just enjoyed their videos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11205" LastActivityDate="2021-10-30T19:08:40.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13227" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-30T22:52:13.667" Score="2" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lumber question for any professional homeowners / handyfolks out there:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wO6gg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wO6gg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;non-standard piece of lumber&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm replacing a piece of rotted wood on each side of my garage door frame (piece circled in the image). The actual dimensions of the board are 2 3/4&amp;quot; x 1 1/8&amp;quot; .... anyone know what manner of sorcery are those dimensions? None I'm familiar with (nor is Home Depot or Lowe's).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe those are just boards that were custom-cut to get them flush with the siding? In which case I suppose I'd need to get some at a lumber yard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11137" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-10-31T12:23:38.337" LastActivityDate="2021-11-01T23:57:10.127" Title="2 3/4&quot; x 1 1/8&quot; board?" Tags="|wood|wood-repair|lumber|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13227" CreationDate="2021-10-31T01:04:26.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is not an &amp;quot;off the shelf&amp;quot; board. Most likely you'll need a buddy with a table saw to cut wood from the BigBox store to the needed dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be able to contact a local lumber dealer and have them cut some boards to size too. There will be a modest charge and lead time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2021-11-01T23:57:10.127" LastActivityDate="2021-11-01T23:57:10.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13229" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13230" CreationDate="2021-10-31T09:15:52.093" Score="2" ViewCount="445" Body="&lt;p&gt;From recent question &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/13214/will-forcing-a-twisted-drawer-front-flat-cause-issues&quot;&gt;Will forcing a twisted drawer front flat cause issues?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood sometimes distorts after we make it final thickness. Can we avoid this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastActivityDate="2021-11-02T05:50:52.517" Title="Wood warps after milling" Tags="|technique|warp|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13229" CreationDate="2021-10-31T09:15:52.093" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not always possible to avoid it, but there are techniques to minimize this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Good quality lumber that has been well dried is the best start!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy wood closest to needed thickness so you expose less of the core when milling. Usually this is also most economical because thicker boards are a higher price.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After purchase leave time for the wood to equalize with conditions in your workshop before use. 2-3 weeks, more if possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quartersawn boards are more stable than flatsawn boards. But more expensive and may have boring grain. Or ugly figure such as in oak!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wood with knots is less stable than 'clear' wood. But more expensive and possibly with less character.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Where you must reduce thickness by a lot, do not plane or sand to final thickness in a single session. Work in stages over some days. If a board distorts a little at one stage the next step can remove it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to remove an equal amount from each face to equalize core exposure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Only mill the wood that you will use immediately.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where you cannot use milled wood immediately:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For a short delay, 1-2 days, stack boards with stickers between to prevent uneven water loss.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For longer delay, up to many weeks, place boards in plastic bags or wrap in plastic to minimize water exchange with air. This also prevents color change from light!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many such techniques presented with other important tips for new woodworkers in this video from The Wood Whisperer &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WbbH4suvN0w&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Don't Make These Lumber Mistakes! | Tips for New Woodworkers&lt;/a&gt; on YouTube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastEditorUserId="10942" LastEditDate="2021-11-02T05:50:52.517" LastActivityDate="2021-11-02T05:50:52.517" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13231" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-31T11:00:09.293" Score="4" ViewCount="2574" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been given a project by the other half to recreate a dining table the folds in half lengthways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The project seems fairly sensible and would be easy to put together using regular hardware etc., however the original appears to use SOSS-style hidden 180 degree hinges which I have never used before - and I would like to welcome the challenge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Source images&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AakXem.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AakXem.png&quot; alt=&quot;Main image of folding table&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IeL3Wm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IeL3Wm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close up of hinge hardware&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can only find a couple of YouTube videos of people fitting these style of hinges, the majority being the extremely larger versions of SOSS hinge for actually fitting doors; and any of the routing jigs I have found run into the hundreds of £££.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore I am reaching out for advice on how I can achieve this finish with the most appropriate hinges for the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For context, I am in the UK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8149" LastEditorUserId="8149" LastEditDate="2021-11-01T18:31:47.300" LastActivityDate="2021-11-02T15:08:50.803" Title="Using SOSS-style hinges to create 180° flush-folding tabletop" Tags="|router|table-making|hinges|mortise-and-tenon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13227" CreationDate="2021-10-31T15:45:30.193" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a variety of trim shapes like &amp;quot;brick mold&amp;quot;. What is worse they change from time to time and different suppliers use different shapes. So it is unlikely you can find a match. An experienced carpenter that is about to repair my similar damage said the whole section should be replaced. I have made a similar repair; I custom made a section using a joiner/planer.  It took time  but the labor was cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3966" LastActivityDate="2021-10-31T15:45:30.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13233" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-31T19:47:56.367" Score="3" ViewCount="1408" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built the below kit bunk bed for my kids and interested in reinforcing the posts to deal with some horizontal sway. It is constructed out of pine and connected with screws, barrel nuts and dowels. The posts are 2” x 2”. I planned to add additional slats but had some concerns on swaying when I would try and shake the bed. Considering adding some metal corner braces directly underneath the top bunk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8EnKB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8EnKB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11210" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-10-31T21:59:13.873" LastActivityDate="2021-11-07T18:07:14.067" Title="Reinforce bunk bed" Tags="|furniture|strength|racking|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13234" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-31T22:03:10.793" Score="3" ViewCount="290" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 12” Craftsman table saw with a 220v direct drive motor, how can I get the model without the tag?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only information I have:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;it is a 113 series saw motor, model is KK48BR-120&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;240V 7.0 amps&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;3400 rpm&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;1 horse&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11211" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-11-01T17:35:42.677" LastActivityDate="2021-11-01T17:48:40.720" Title="How can you identify a Craftsman table saw with no ID tag?" Tags="|table-saw|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13234" CreationDate="2021-11-01T17:43:34.997" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the motor model, this is probably a re-badged Sears Craftsman c.1970s. You are lucky, in that Sears Craftsman only had 2 or 3 12&amp;quot; direct drive models over the decades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The motor should have a source and/or part number on it, and if you search for that against Sears replacement parts you may find the specific model number that this part is for. Doing so, you may find that (for example) this might be a dual-voltage model &amp;quot;113.29970&amp;quot; or similar. Check images online to see if the photos you can find for this model (using the part before the decimal) match what you have, more or less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the motor has a source number on it this might match the first part of the model number, with the number after the decimal being model revisions or packaging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finding the &lt;em&gt;exact&lt;/em&gt; model number (including the values after the decimal) may not be possible, but you may be able to work backwards from published manuals to exploded views and features on your saw to get close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-11-01T17:48:40.720" LastActivityDate="2021-11-01T17:48:40.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13233" CreationDate="2021-11-01T17:50:30.140" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would re-check that you have really tightened all the barrel bolts The ones that lock the post and prevent the racking are the bottom headboards and the 4 top safety rails. Tightening the bottom foot post would help hold the two front posts from racking to the side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OP –&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After tightening, there is still a little rocking side to side in the front of the bunk bed when I give it a shake holding the top of the front posts. When grabbing the front two posts from the middle, that is when they will rock the most.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After looking at your bunkbed on the web, I believe these are the potential areas that are causing the problem on the front posts.  The right side is the most problematic as there are not adequate side pieces attached to the post.  See the picture below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TtsLm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TtsLm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Insert picture.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the top of the post under the upper bunk, you could add a L-bracket as shown below to provide additional bracing.   At the bottom of the post, where a bracket is most needed, there is no bracing provided in the design of the bunkbed.  It would be difficult to add a bracket at the bottom location without some modification to the bed frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1iEVT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1iEVT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8556" LastActivityDate="2021-11-01T17:50:30.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13238" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-01T18:41:34.940" Score="0" ViewCount="501" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the below image represents using one of these SOSS-style hinge to hang doors, showing a gap between pieces such that the door can open without hindering itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OR0uV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OR0uV.png&quot; alt=&quot;hinge cross section image and table&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to mount the hinge such that we can have both pieces touching perfectly flush?&#xA;If it is possible I imagine that we would just inset the hinge ends further into the board an equal amount?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example,Say I have a &lt;strong&gt;101&lt;/strong&gt; hinge, the diagram shows &lt;strong&gt;A&lt;/strong&gt; being 2.4mm with a gap between the pieces of 2.7mm (&lt;strong&gt;B&lt;/strong&gt;). So to get a completely flush fold I would be required to increase &lt;strong&gt;A&lt;/strong&gt; by 2.7/2 = 1.35mm on each leaf?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8149" LastEditorUserId="3985" LastEditDate="2021-11-01T20:40:55.867" LastActivityDate="2021-11-01T20:40:55.867" Title="Is it possible to mount SOSS hinges with no gap?" Tags="|tabletop|table-making|hinges|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13233" CreationDate="2021-11-01T19:18:09.857" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pine 2X2 corner uprights are skimpy ( have low modulus). I think it will require significant diagonal bracing in most corners to stiffen it. I used 1X4 oak boards connected in a &amp;quot;L&amp;quot; for the uprights : that stayed stiff for 45 years and two pairs of boys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3966" LastActivityDate="2021-11-01T19:18:09.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13231" CreationDate="2021-11-02T15:08:50.803" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To summarize comments on the original question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is nothing that says that you &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; use an expensive, commercially produced jig to make the mortise for these hinges (or any hinges, for that matter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can make your own router template out of a piece of hardboard or plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a piece about 1/4&amp;quot; (6mm) thick, cut out a hole the precise dimensions of the hinge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enlarge the hole by the thickness of the router collar you want to use.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Precisely center the hole on the edge of the table, then sandwich the table between a couple of pieces of solid wood (cheap pine would be sufficient) and screw the hardboard/plywood to the pieces of solid wood.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mark out the dimensions of the hinge directly onto the table edge. Using a Forstner bit of the correct diameter, drill overlapping holes the depth of the thickness of the hinge plate. Use a chisel to square up the corners and straighten the edges. Oh, wait, those hinges appear to have round ends, so you don't even need to square the ends up, just ensure the sides are straight!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a chisel to make the complete mortise by hand. It was done this way for centuries before electric routers were invented... Of course, with the round ended hinges, this does become more difficult to get a good fit, but you say you're up for a challenge!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2021-11-02T15:08:50.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8305" CreationDate="2021-11-02T20:16:43.810" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been using carnauba wax to finish my turning projects recently.  It's pretty durable and is food-safe right away.  I've been turning bowls from maple butcher block, it shows off the chatoyancy nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I apply Carnuba wax in a two-step process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After the pieces is finished and sanded smooth, turn up the speed on the lathe and hold a stick of solid wax (I bought mine at Woodcraft) against the piece until I can see that there's at least a skim of wax over the whole surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take a small square of some kind of sturdy cloth and press it firmly onto the spinning piece.  I use a piece of an old dish towel folded once.  Without folding, it's too thin, and the cloth gets too hot to hold.  It it's too thick, then it tends to slip a bit or I might not be able to follow the contours very well.  After a second or so, the wax melts and the wood changes color as it &amp;quot;wets&amp;quot;.  Slowly move the cloth along the surface until all of the wax has melted in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a pretty simple process, and I think it smells nice, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8547" LastEditorUserId="8547" LastEditDate="2021-11-09T01:55:49.103" LastActivityDate="2021-11-09T01:55:49.103" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13242" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-03T19:46:00.763" Score="8" ViewCount="3258" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having a large bin made for refuse bags at our beach house.  It will be made from treated pine and stainless steel screws and hinges.  I was quoted for the job which includes 4-5 layers of used car oil to treat the wood (probably for cost saving as well as longevity).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not concerned about the look, but rather whether this is inferior treatment to another treatment option that is still affordable and won't require more maintenance over the coming years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My other concern is the environmental impact.  Will the oil leak in any way once absorbed into the wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in South Africa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11230" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-11-06T12:30:54.740" LastActivityDate="2023-12-19T19:19:54.177" Title="Used motor oil on treated pine" Tags="|finish-selection|pine|outdoor|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13242" CreationDate="2021-11-03T22:13:12.297" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but rather whether this is inferior treatment to another treatment option that is still affordable and won't require more maintenance over the coming years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's certainly something that people do -- you can find lots of people discussing it if you search for something like &amp;quot;wood motor oil.&amp;quot; I've never tried it myself, and I wouldn't do it. A proper water/weather sealer for wood costs about $20/gal at any home center. Using motor oil to seal wood makes about as much sense as using wood sealer to lubricate your engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good deck stain would be another option, especially if you'd like to choose the color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My other concern is the environmental impact. Will the oil leak in any way once absorbed into the wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It surely won't leak out in the sense of dripping on the ground, but everything that's in the oil will eventually end up in the environment somehow. No wood protectant lasts forever; some of that oil may soak into the wood and stay there, but only until you eventually replace the bin, and at that point it'll end up in the landfill or incinerator. Some of it will leave the wood through weathering and end up in the soil or water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2021-11-03T22:13:12.297" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13242" CreationDate="2021-11-04T01:04:04.407" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on where you live, this may not even be legal. Used motor oil, where I live, must be collected in leak-proof containers and periodically picked up and taken to a depot where it is reprocessed. Using it as a hack outdoor finish is not legal here, and rightly so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything that is in the oil and inside the engine of a car (aromatic hydrocarbons, volatiles, heavy metals) will end up in your local environment over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we were living in a time where good outdoor finishes weren't easily found, or were too expensive, you might see motor oil as a poor last choice. At some point all kinds of petroleum products were used in this manner. For example, it was common for diesel fuel to be put to all sorts of uses when it was cheaper and easier to come by (and the cheaper stuff wasn't dyed red) than alternatives. Many of us are living in houses where the basement was sprayed with petrochemicals as part of the concrete pour. You aren't allowed to do that anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It just makes no sense today. It'll make a terrible finish and to add insult you will have to reapply regularly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This whole idea is so astonishing in 2021 that I'm wondering if the wood whisperer you know doing this has ever actually used the internet, or even read a booklet on finishing outdoor projects from the last three decades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please, just skip this and use one of the good outdoor penetrating finishes and commit to splashing on more coats semi-regularly, or go for a sealing product that'll last years between reapplications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern finishes are so much better than this worst, last choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-11-04T14:21:12.890" LastActivityDate="2021-11-04T14:21:12.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13242" CreationDate="2021-11-04T08:14:53.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't say where beach house is, maybe in California? 100% this is illegal there :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Used motor oil provides long service &lt;strong&gt;for untreated wood&lt;/strong&gt; used as &lt;strong&gt;posts set in soil.&lt;/strong&gt; Usually only used on farms and other rural settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It gives v good protection but ends must be soaked in oil for a long time to be effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;end grain is like a sponge, soaks in oil deep&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For side surfaces wood must be dry or treatment will be ineffective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;treated wood sold wet in America&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;oil / water do not mix&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Treated pine already has &lt;strong&gt;10+ year lifespan with no maintenance&lt;/strong&gt;. Do maintenance and it maybe lasts until you don't need it any more!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want zero maintenance option pay more now, less over time. Have bin made from:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;white oak&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;redwood&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;western red cedar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;catalpa&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pacific yew&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bin will look better, less cracks and splits, because these species are not sold wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bin will last longer. White oak survives outdoors with no maintenance for 30+ years in wet setting, 100+ years in dry setting. Durability of other species on list equal or higher than white oak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastActivityDate="2021-11-04T08:14:53.683" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3915" CreationDate="2021-11-04T18:28:08.567" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to go against the grain here and say it's probably within spec for an ER collet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But one should always refer to the manufacturer for the last word. The ER collets have a &amp;quot;clampling range&amp;quot; which the manufacturer usually specifies. For example, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.techniksusa.com/downloads/catalogs/Collets_Nuts_Catalog.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Techniks specifications&lt;/a&gt;. I've noticed that those ranges appear in other websites, but I'm not sure if they come from Techniks' catalog or from another source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To give an example, if a 1/4&amp;quot; shank measures something between 0.236&amp;quot; and 0.276&amp;quot;, then it should still be within the manufacturers recommendation for a 6.0-7.0mm collet (or within 0.216&amp;quot;-0.255&amp;quot; for a 5.5-6.5mm collet). And vice-versa, if a 6mm shank measures anything between 0.211&amp;quot;-0.25&amp;quot;, then it is within Technik's 1/4&amp;quot; collet recommendation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11233" LastEditorUserId="11233" LastEditDate="2021-11-04T18:34:46.913" LastActivityDate="2021-11-04T18:34:46.913" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13247" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13248" CreationDate="2021-11-04T21:17:18.550" Score="1" ViewCount="10045" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure if this the best place to ask but worth a shot. I want to put a fish tank on the end of this desk. It is a 10 gallon tank and all up will probably weigh about 65kg (water, substrate, tank included).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on the weight limit of this desk and if it will support this tank? IKEA does not list any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tank is 50cm x 25cm and will be only over the top of the drawers as they are 60cm x 35cm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WHami.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WHami.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/lagkapten-alex-desk-black-brown-black-s69417690/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/lagkapten-alex-desk-black-brown-black-s69417690/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/alex-drawer-unit-black-brown-60473548/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/alex-drawer-unit-black-brown-60473548/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11235" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-11-05T09:57:52.970" LastActivityDate="2022-09-13T18:01:15.677" Title="Weight limit of IKEA Lagkapten/Alex desk" Tags="|weight-capacity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13247" CreationDate="2021-11-05T09:54:45.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this should be fine, but as mentioned in the Comments you'll want to assess for yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the knockdown fasteners that Ikea use here are not noted for being a super-strong way to put things together they aren't weak either, and the bolts or cams would have to literally tear out from the chipboard/particleboard for this to fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of resistance to racking (any leaning side to side or back to front) back-and-forth motion is a non-issue. Side-to-side motion is a potential for concern however, but the top links the two units quite securely; so IMO both would really have to fail in order for this to collapse sideways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just don't see that happening under a &lt;em&gt;static&lt;/em&gt; load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you must plan for unexpected &lt;em&gt;dynamic&lt;/em&gt; loads, which could include just someone hitting the edge of the desk with their hip as they walk past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; if you decide to go ahead, do ensure that all fasteners are tight before you fill the tank with water. Don't over-tighten, but make sure nothing is loose before putting this under load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-11-05T09:54:45.770" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13249" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-06T00:19:43.367" Score="1" ViewCount="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1-2&amp;quot; gap in my hardwood floor after I needed to swap a larger register with a smaller one.&#xA;1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to replace a 12&amp;quot; x 10&amp;quot; supply register grill with a 12&amp;quot; x 8&amp;quot; supply grill (because I need a booster fan grill and the largest size they come in is 12&amp;quot; x 8&amp;quot;) leaving me with a 2&amp;quot; gap along the bottom of the register grill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the easiest way to fill that 2&amp;quot; gap in the hardwood floor opening in a way that doesn't stand out? If I can find a nice reducer frame, that would be nice but I can also take suggestions for other simple suggestions as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The smaller size doesn't matter with the supply duct since the duct below is a round oval about 10x4... with the supply duct before the elbow being a larger rectangle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the original supply grill before I will replace it with a shorter grill.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y064s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here it is after it's been replaced&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2ngdX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2ngdX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I put a frame around it to make it look nice and since the floor around the frame needs some cleaning, or can I wedge or nail in some wood in and then finish to match somehow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11244" LastActivityDate="2021-11-08T17:26:57.730" Title="How to fill 2”x12” gap in hardwood floor with something that looks nice" Tags="|finishing|hardwood|flooring|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13249" CreationDate="2021-11-06T12:23:30.963" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trim it out with a frame. It will be nearly impossible to satisfactorily match the grain and edges of the flooring. And you need the length for enough strength to hold onto the existing flooring and support the heavier register.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any decent hardwood will do, matching or contrasting with the floor. The real challenge will be how you handle the short sides, because the new register is a squashed rectangle within the original one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm understanding what I'm seeing in the photos, I think something like this would work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create a mitred frame that covers the hole but can also support the register.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create a rebate along the inside of the frame that allows the register to be inset into it. This also provides enough wood for your little wood screws at the sides.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In order to keep the frame from sliding around we need to take up the space on the top and bottom. I'd use a small block or strip of softwood that runs not quite the length of the underside of the frame (top and bottom) to act as a cleat so that the whole thing slips into the hole but doesn't have a lot of lateral movement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can try to fasten the frame to the existing subfloor if you want  (perhaps through the cleats running the length of the top and bottom, under the trim) before inserting and fastening the register.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you can try to add some flush pieces to &amp;quot;extend&amp;quot; the flooring, though it'll always look like a patch. This is a bit less forgiving, as well, because keying in a piece to fit a rough cut hole is not an easy job. Plus, any way I can think of attaching it firmly to the existing floor and maintaining the flush and tight fit while also supporting the register would be a lot of work for not very good results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not to mention that the existing flooring is probably an engineered product which can be painful to work with using woodworking techniques. I'd stay away from trying to &amp;quot;extend&amp;quot; the flooring in favour of simply trimming the register out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-11-08T17:26:57.730" LastActivityDate="2021-11-08T17:26:57.730" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13251" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-06T17:05:23.880" Score="2" ViewCount="297" Body="&lt;p&gt;While studying workbench designs I read a 2007 article by Chris Schwarz in Woodworking Magazine about the Holtzapffel workbench. He describes it roughly as an eclectic bench with French, German and English influences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although the article mentions a tool tray and tail vise, Schwarz proceeds to build a Holtzapffel bench without them. The result looks a lot like a Roubo to me, except with a twin screw instead of a leg vise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This made me wonder what exactly makes a bench a Holtzapffel instead of a Roubo. Is it just the vise, or is there more to it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please appreciate that my question is out of theoretical interest and not from any practical need. I can build a fine bench without worrying about the historical origins of the design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9256" LastEditorUserId="9256" LastEditDate="2021-11-06T18:04:20.400" LastActivityDate="2021-11-07T07:21:35.953" Title="What are the defining features of a Holtzapffel workbench?" Tags="|hand-tools|workbench|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13251" CreationDate="2021-11-07T07:21:35.953" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The defining feature of this bench is the mixture of elements from three traditions. Mostly French and German + a few English additions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Ev3t.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Ev3t.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Top thick only where needed to support vises.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&amp;quot;Tree-trunk legs&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Legs flush with front of top.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tool tray.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drawer under top.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Massive twin screw face vise, 24&amp;quot; ( 610mm) between screws.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Traditional European tail vise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A variety of planing stops [square holes]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Holdfasts [round holes]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bolts used in some places.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/BuildingtheHoltzapffel.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Building the Holtzapffel&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/chris-schwarz-blog/the-holtzapffel-workbench/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Holtzapffel Workbench&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.lostartpress.com/2020/04/12/workbench-tour-no-5-the-holtzapffel-workbench/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Workbench Tour No. 5: The Holtzapffel Workbench&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastActivityDate="2021-11-07T07:21:35.953" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11109" CreationDate="2021-11-07T14:48:56.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An alternate answer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While reading &amp;quot;A Little Book of Woodworking Joints&amp;quot; I ran across this figure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/blZ8J.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/blZ8J.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Setting Bevel to Angle for Dovetailing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chapter on &amp;quot;Simple Dovetailing&amp;quot; has this to say about Fig. 20:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A very good method of setting the bevel is to obtain a piece of board&#xA;and set up a square line as shown in Fig. 20, and mark off six units —&#xA;size 1/2 in., say — and then to the left or right along the edge mark&#xA;off one unit, then drawing the splay line shown, give a line so that&#xA;setting a bevel to it as shown makes the inclination — or angle — of&#xA;the blade with the stock 6 to 1, which is probably about the best&#xA;angle for dovetailing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To my eye, the sharp angle on the bevel makes it very easy to set the dovetail angle in this manner to a known value by using a shop standard gauge of some sort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A square end would work, but it wouldn't be as easy to read (in my opinion) and other shapes (a reverse angle, rounded) would make this sort of the bevel-setting impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2021-11-07T14:48:56.090" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13233" CreationDate="2021-11-07T18:07:14.067" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let me suggest a simpler, but more radical approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drive several long screws through the bed rail which is against the wall, and into 2x4s in the wall. You'll need to locate the studs, of course, but that's not hard. When it comes time to move the bed, you'll need to patch the holes, but they shouldn't be a real problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bed frame currently does not butt against the wall, make a shim with some scrap wood to fill the gap in the areas the screws penetrate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the standard approach when making large bookcases, and I don't see why it won't work in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="463" LastActivityDate="2021-11-07T18:07:14.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13259" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-08T02:35:12.187" Score="1" ViewCount="67" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Festool CTM26E, without autoclean, and I'm trying to choose aftermarket dust bags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the bags I see on ebay say &amp;quot;Not suitable for CT standard version (without AC)&amp;quot; which is lifted directly from the description of the genuine Festool bag &amp;quot;Disposable bag ENS-CT 26 AC/5&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Festool have the &amp;quot;SELFCLEAN filter bag SC FIS-CT 26/5&amp;quot; which doesn't mention that restriction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the actual difference between these bags?&#xA;What is it about the first that makes it unsuitable for a non-autoclean CT 26?&#xA;And what should I look for in an aftermarket bag to be sure that I'm getting a non autoclean compatible bag?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2817" LastActivityDate="2021-11-08T02:35:12.187" Title="What is the difference between dust bags for Festool vacuums which do, and don't, have the autoclean feature?" Tags="|power-tools|dust-collection|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13260" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-09T01:37:27.137" Score="0" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was using a block plane and chisel + sander to clean out rabbets for new panes of glass in wooden storm windows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The block plane didn't clean completely into the corners, and got me wondering if there is a plane that takes care of both &amp;quot;sides&amp;quot; of a rabbet AND the corner simultaneously?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11261" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-11-09T11:34:11.190" LastActivityDate="2021-11-10T20:12:02.187" Title="Rabbet/rebate on window frames - cleaning them out. Is there a specialized plane for this?" Tags="|tool-selection|hand-planing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13261" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13264" CreationDate="2021-11-09T02:49:04.073" Score="2" ViewCount="463" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to stain this tabletop (I think it is oak, though could be wrong). I have stripped the varnish and sanded it down to the wood. My first attempt at staining was blotchy (see attached photos), and not as dark as I would've liked, so I am going to give it a go again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TTXUf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TTXUf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/An139.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/An139.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first staining effort was done by sanding with coarse grit, followed by 220 grit, wiped with mineral spirits, then wood conditioner, then stained with a transparent water-based stain (left stain on briefly and then wiped with a rag). Clearly, I did something wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, what should I do differently this time? Is a water-based stain the right way to go with this? I would like to stain a dark color (rich color) and then top with a matte coat to seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11262" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-11-09T11:24:53.240" LastActivityDate="2021-11-09T14:22:03.817" Title="Staining dining table advice" Tags="|staining|tabletop|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13260" CreationDate="2021-11-09T07:39:30.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is not usual to use planes for this. Window rabbets are normally cleaned by scraping since the surface does not need to be 'perfect'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a plane that takes care of both &amp;quot;sides&amp;quot; of a rabbet AND the corner simultaneously?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think such a plane is made. The sides of rabbets require a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/TheVeritasSideRabbetPlane.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;side rabbet plane&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JPJUf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JPJUf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;side rabbet planes&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And to plane into a corner requires a chisel plane:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L6PhT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L6PhT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chisel plane&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-11-09T11:37:30.077" LastActivityDate="2021-11-09T11:37:30.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13261" CreationDate="2021-11-09T11:21:17.953" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally I'd have asked in the Comments for the specifics of what you'd used here as often knowing the exact products used is vital to diagnosing an issue, but I don't think it matters here as something else led to the uneven result you got.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So first off your tabletop is almost certainly oak as you thought. I only mention this as it's relevant to a few of the points that follow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Panel material of this type made from many narrow strips will never yield a super-uniform result with conventional staining because there are so many different pieces of wood, each of which may be slightly (or very!) different to its immediate neighbours, and that includes how it absorbs stain. You can see this in a few locations on your tabletop, where one stave abuts another which is noticeably darker. This is normal and to be expected when staining conventionally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, you can generally get a more even result than this; and there appear to be patches where the stain didn't take very well which I think give us the necessary clue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What went wrong&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I think the cause of the uneven colouring here is incomplete removal of the original finish. There are smaller indications of this here and there, but the top-left corner appears to be a patch where a noticeable amount of original finish remained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Stripping is usually not a one-and-done thing.&lt;/em&gt; Pros often set out to strip twice, and may even be prepared to strip three times to ensure every trace of former finish is removed from the surface. This is especially important on open-pored or coarse-grained woods such as oak because finish can easily be retained in the deeper grain&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On some species if you scrape or sand thoroughly and completely after stripping a second or third stripping may be made unnecessary, but with something like oak that means taking off quite a bit of wood because the grain is deep. This may remove more wood than you'd want to sacrifice if you can prevent it, although admittedly you do have plenty of thickness to play with here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So, what now?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If you want to go very dark, like a dark-chocolate colour that's been popular for some years now, you may be able to leave what you have and apply another product on top to even up the colouring. That product is the poorly named &amp;quot;gel stain&amp;quot;, which is actually a coloured varnish, artificially thickened to some level of gel consistency depending on the brand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Gel stain&amp;quot; isn't absorbed by wood but instead sits on top, so it is ideal for helping to achieve a uniform colour where absorbency varies. But, this comes at the expense of obscuring natural grain features in the wood (as all pigmented stains do).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to go much darker however, the ideal course of action would be to strip again, ensuring this time that you are down to clean, bare wood&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; and then stain again. Note that staining a large surface with waterbased stain can be tricky; you may want to look at a few guides to ensure you have all your ducks in a row before tackling this a second time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note on &amp;quot;wood conditioner&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Products sold as &amp;quot;wood conditioner&amp;quot; are intended to even up stain absorption in blotch-prone species, &lt;em&gt;but oak is not one of those&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blotch-prone woods for which these products (or some kind of DIY alternative) are intended include softwoods (chiefly pine), cherry, birch and maple. These are all poreless or small-pored/fine-grained woods. Open-pored woods, including oak and walnut, generally stain very nicely and without blotching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of whether &amp;quot;wood conditioner&amp;quot; is called for or not &lt;em&gt;one of the side effects of using it is that it automatically gives a lighter result&lt;/em&gt;. This is because it partially seals the entire surface of the wood, not just the problem areas it was applied to treat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; You can easily spot this after stripping, cleaning and sanding — shiny glints in an otherwise completely matt surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;  When you clean the stripped surface down with mineral spirits, lacquer thinner or water after stripping, use the opportunity to look for uneven wetting of the wood, which indicates areas of 'standout' where some trace of the original finish remains in the wood fibres. Only after the surface wets uniformly (no light patches that look like they aren't as wet) and there is no beading, are you ready to proceed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-11-09T11:21:17.953" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13260" CreationDate="2021-11-10T20:12:02.187" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;wondering if there is a plane that takes care of both &amp;quot;sides&amp;quot; of a rabbet AND the corner simultaneously?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rabbet planes and combination planes typically have a &amp;quot;spur&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;nicker&amp;quot; blade that scores the wood vertically in the corner of the rabbet just ahead of the iron, preventing tearout. The nicker helps to ensure that both the side and the corner of the rabbet are cut cleanly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2021-11-10T20:12:02.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13270" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-12T23:24:48.853" Score="5" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have raw oak floorboards which are being individually stained and finished before being laid. For context - this is my first time doing anything like this, so apologies for my lack of technical knowledge. After many experiments I have decided on a reactive stain which is a combination of two brands that I mixed together to produce a really nice darkish desaturated brown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the experiments I found that water popping the grain massively enhances the stain absorption and looks far better and more professional. My problem is in dealing with the raised grain. If I sand after staining (even lightly), this pulls some stain off. If I sand to 120 before applying the stain, the colour actually is still good (I would have thought the pores would have closed up slightly again) but the grain still raises again after staining (although to a lesser extent) and the texture still feels quite rough to the touch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ulimately I am looking for the best workflow in going from raw oak to achieving a nice smooth floor finish. Currently my process is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water pop the boards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Without sanding, apply one coat of reactive stain then egalize with a dry brush to remove any excess stain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very lightly sand with sanding sponge around 320 grit to remove popped grains, nibs etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply thin coat of Osmo Polyx with microfibre roller.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat step 3.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply thin second coat of Osmo.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's it. I'm getting a decent finish with a nice colour, but texturally it just feels like it could be softer, smoother, and less 'plasticky' which is part of the reason why I went with a hard wax oil over a polyurethane varnish. I've tried all kinds of application and sanding methods, including using red buffing pads, maroon pads, white pads for application etc. and so far the process above is the best I have. Applying oil with white pads over water based stain is not a good idea btw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could anyone suggest where I might be going wrong, and how I might get the best finish with this combination of reactive stain and hard wax oil? I'm a complete amateur and have not made things easy on myself by choosing such an awkward combination of finishes! Yet I love the colour and this could be an awesome floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bonus yet related question:&lt;/strong&gt; The Polyx oil I bought is called semi-matt 3055, as I wanted barely any gloss- just slightly more than matt. However the final finish appears quite a bit more reflective than the sample I had seen. My guess is because of the darker colour of the wood, stronger reflections are visible. Is there anyway to dull the reflections or will they reduce as the oil cures, or with wear? Or are they stuck like this forever? I regret not buying the matt now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11280" LastActivityDate="2021-11-13T09:58:17.280" Title="What's the best process for sanding/finishing reactive stained oak floor with hardwax oil to leave the best surface?" Tags="|finishing|staining|sanding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13270" CreationDate="2021-11-13T09:58:17.280" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think there's an ideal solution here, and it's possible you're already getting close to the best result you can given the constraints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as I read it there is still something to try, and that's doing the usual amount of sanding after raising the grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is, &lt;em&gt;just enough&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL;DR raise the grain with water, sand &lt;em&gt;lightly&lt;/em&gt;, then proceed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The goal of pre-raising grain with water is generally to stop grain rising when something based on water is applied afterwards, but it only works right when you only sand off the raised grain and don't go any deeper. As a result a very light sanding with fine-ish paper is what's called for; I can't stress the very light enough here, you're ONLY looking to take off the whiskers. You must force yourself not to sand any further after they're gone..... trust me, this is harder than it sounds :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look up in finishing guides in books and online how to pre-raise grain you'll see there is (rather inevitably!) no absolute consistency in recommendations of how to do this, although the general principles are the same. But a fairly typical routine would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prior to this sand only to 120-150 and no finer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dampen the wood. You don't need to saturate for this to work, just dampen the surface so it doesn't take too long to dry and you minimise the chance of boards warping; think &lt;em&gt;damp rag&lt;/em&gt; rather than &lt;em&gt;wet sponge&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait for the wood to dry; drying can be accelerated with fans, a hairdryer or heat gun (used carefully).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sand very lightly, &lt;em&gt;by hand&lt;/em&gt;, using reasonably fine paper, e.g. 320. Some people use 280, still others use 360 or occasionally even finer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember to sand just enough to remove the roughness and no more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note 1:&lt;/strong&gt; use fresh paper. You need the paper (or cloth/film/mesh) to cut efficiently for this to work, and except for some of the newest meshes/screens that last approximately forever this means using very fresh or brand new paper. Dull paper cuts less efficiently and tends to have a burnishing effect on the surface of the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note 2:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;do not&lt;/em&gt; use steel wool as a substitute for abrasive paper here. Similarly, don't use Scotch-Brite (or any equivalent). None of the conformable abrasives cut quite the same way that paper/cloth/film/mesh does, even the ones like Scotch-Brite that contain abrasive grit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should mention that some people report that raising the grain twice, sometimes even more times than that, is the only way to ensure that you get zero raised grain after applying your waterbased finishing product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re. your bonus Q, I would normally encourage you to ask this as a separate Question, but it's too quiet here and if you need an answer in real time I would encourage you to ask on one of the woodworking forums with a large, active membership. Given the popularity of Osmo products in recent years — to the point where any finish-recommendation question would result in Osmo being mentioned at least once if not multiple times! — I'm sure you'll find a large number of people willing to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect you'll find out that this Osmo product just isn't as matt as you'd like, even after very thorough shaking/stirring of the can to ensure proper distribution of the matting agent. And unfortunately I think you'll discover over time that usage may make matters worse — it's broadly the case that more-matt finishes get buffed slightly with use, increasing the sheen, and where abrasion is highest they can end up actually quite shiny. While I'd be critical of Osmo for a couple of reasons this is just the way it is with wood finishes in general. From what I've seen firsthand even more-matt &lt;em&gt;ceramic tiles&lt;/em&gt; buff up with use (and a shockingly small amount of use in some cases!) and the glazed surface of tiles should be a couple of orders of magnitude tougher than any wood finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-11-13T09:58:17.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13272" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13284" CreationDate="2021-11-13T12:17:25.717" Score="3" ViewCount="630" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bunch of 20x20x1.7 cm MDFs, and I'm trying to make a wall decoration that looks like ONE of these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6WuDx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image from internet&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;(image from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pinterest.com/pin/383931936991616904/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...except my wood pieces are small and thus I need to use many squares to construct one edge of a bigger rectangle. So I put together this shape that I want to build with my squares:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mDvcb.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mDvcb.png&quot; alt=&quot;illustration of what I want&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The total weight of the squares that will be used is less than 5 kg&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I want it to tolerate things like weight of plants&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The question is:&lt;/strong&gt; How do I appropriately join these squares as such they're very durable? Glue doesn't seem to be strong enough for this and I think wood dowels wouldn't help with the vertical joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A related question is also: how do I eventually hang this thing on a wall?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11282" LastEditorUserId="11282" LastEditDate="2021-11-14T20:08:37.503" LastActivityDate="2021-11-18T16:03:45.613" Title="What's a good way to join MDF squares to make a frame-shaped wall decoration?" Tags="|joinery|mdf|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13075" CreationDate="2021-11-14T17:03:07.767" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DFRTq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DFRTq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I procrastinated this for quite a while but ended up going a completely different direction from what I was thinking initially. Couldn't find an elegant way to connect the legs with the original style so I flushed up the ends of the table, then made 2 legs from ripping the original 4 in half and joining them together. I then connected it to the table by routing a groove and securing them with some threaded inserts. Finished with some wipe-on poly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note: whatever wood this is (perhaps jarrah or merbau as as suggested)did not play nicely with my respiratory system. Even with wearing a mask, I had nasty allergy symptoms for nearly a week after sanding it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9030" LastActivityDate="2021-11-14T17:03:07.767" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13272" CreationDate="2021-11-15T03:55:48.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, the fundamental problem here is that you want to edge join mdf and have it be faintly strong. You could dowel or biscuit join, but these have no hope of standing up to any load bearing work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I had to build this using the constraints given, I'd make the big rectangle first. Butt join the corners with screws (predrilled and countersunk). To join the long edges, I'd prefer biscuits (mostly alignment; some strength) over dowels (because dowels are more finicky for alignment in my experience). Glue all these joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the edge joined mdf is extremely weak, use full length pieces of timber to frame the back (so 40/60/40/60cm long pieces) &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; the same amount of wood to frame the front. You could be fancy and groove (rabbet/dado) the wood to hold the mdf more effectively, or you could simply glue and screw the wood to the edge of the mdf. Predrill and countersink, of course. Be sure to put screws at the beginning and end of each discrete chunk of mdf. Size-wise, I'd use 1x3 (~18mm x 63mm) and hang the excess to the inside of the box. That'll be useful for mounting on the wall. For the front, I'd lean toward a 1x2 (~18mm x 37mm). You could push the excess in whichever direction you'd like -- hang to the inside and you have a lip to prevent things from falling out; hang to the outside and you have a clear line to the interior 'floor'. Or split the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you chose to make 20x20 squares, you wouldn't have any of these problems. Maybe that could be a good entry to these sorts of projects, and the next one could use longer pieces that don't require edge joining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2021-11-15T03:55:48.463" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13272" CreationDate="2021-11-15T15:31:03.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I appropriately join these squares as such they're very durable? Glue doesn't seem to be strong enough for this and I think wood dowels wouldn't help with the vertical joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your intention seems to be to slice some of your 20x20cm squares into strips and to join them at the ends to make longer strips that you can then use to form a larger rectangle. The problem is that butting the ends of MDF strips together will never give you a strong joint. Dowels would help a lot, and they'll work just fine for the vertical parts as well (if you use a dowelling jig to assure accurate hole placement and nice clean holes). However, even with dowels, you're not going to get a joint that anybody would describe as &amp;quot;durable.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the only way to get close to what you're asking would be to mount the strips to some sort of substrate that provides some real structure. If you want your project to be 40x60cm, get a single piece of plywood or even MDF that size, and then glue your strips to that. You might not even really need screws; you'll have glue all along the long edges of the strips, which should provide quite a lot of area for a strong glue joint. But if you like, you can add screws through the back into the strips. This way, the substrate will provide all the strength that's needed to hold whatever objects you're planning to display. If you paint the interior the same color as the wall, it'll be hard to notice the substrate at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know you're looking to use up the MDF pieces that you have, not to buy more, but by themselves the pieces you have simply aren't suitable for what you have in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2021-11-15T15:31:03.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5306" CreationDate="2021-11-16T11:53:33.747" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think what you're looking for is also referred to as 'spacers'. You can find quite a lot on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aluminium-Stand-Off-Spacers-Collar-Bonnet-Raisers-Bushes-Washers-m8-x-3mm-/124389070097&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ebay&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was looking for the same thing for similar reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11294" LastActivityDate="2021-11-16T11:53:33.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13283" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13289" CreationDate="2021-11-16T16:32:39.780" Score="3" ViewCount="3431" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes I need to cut sheets (cca 50x80cm = 20x32&amp;quot;) of soft 4mm (1/8&amp;quot;) poplar plywood into smaller rectangular pieces and I find it surprisingly difficult to do with hand tools - it's too soft and thin for most saws, but it's too thick for a knife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently, for most cuts I do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shallow line with a marking knife using ruler or a square&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;follow the line &amp;quot;freehand&amp;quot; with chip carving knife to make it deeper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;repeat heavier cuts with chip carving knife until it's done (it usualy takes 3-5 cuts)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it's very tedious process which also leads to heavy damage to cutting surface and I have to be very careful to stay in the marked line while applying quite a lot of pressure on the knife. Also the knife must be VERY sharp, otherwise I get jagged edge with chipped out pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For smaller pieces needing more precise cuts I use small 24 tpi saw (Zona). Which is also slow and usable only for really short cuts (no more than 15cm / 6&amp;quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't use heavier saws because anything less than 24tpi destroys the edge badly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a better way/tool to do it? (&lt;strong&gt;I'm only interested in hand tools&lt;/strong&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8416" LastActivityDate="2021-11-17T15:01:11.707" Title="Best way to cut very soft 4mm (1/8&quot;) poplar plywood sheets with hand tools" Tags="|hand-tools|plywood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13272" CreationDate="2021-11-16T18:27:33.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry in advance, there's no TL;DR for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't choose to make up frames like this from squares, but if I had to I would not be overly concerned about the strength of the finished item; I don't think the warnings of certain failure are entirely justified. I would actually be more concerned about the aesthetics of the joins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the dire warnings are (justifiably) based on the assumption of &lt;em&gt;meh&lt;/em&gt; quality MDF, as you'd typically find sold in a big-box store. But it bears repeating that MDF is a product type only, a class of material, and not a specification. So the product can and does vary, and better grades are streets ahead of bottom-tier MDF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Partly based on this, glue-only joints in MDF (except when joined face to face) are regularly considered to be weak. But it's not as simple as that.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;....post #1 in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/crude-adhesive-test.10950/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt; and reply #2 in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.finewoodworking.com/forum/mdf-glue-holding-properties&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt; are worth a read (and then some). I imagine more than a few woodworkers are surprised right about now, I sure was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I would personally still choose to reinforce just to be on the safe side, and my reinforcement of choice would be dowels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dowels, done well, add tons of strength&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. They are easy to relatively easy to install, and cheap, requiring no expensive jig, no specialist drill bit or driver bit &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; no proprietary/specialist screws (I'm looking at you Kreg). Instead you use the drill you already own, possibly a drill bit you already own, and some dowelling. The only extra things you really need are a pencil or small stick (bamboo skewers or coffee stirrers are good) for glue application and a saw that you may also already own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normal dowel joinery, using hidden dowels, does require careful drilling. You have to position each pair of holes accurately, ensure every hole is perpendicular to the surface, not wallowed out and drilled to sufficient depth. This can be achieved by careful freehand drilling (as it was regularly done before the days of power drills) but it is &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; easier and more repeatable using a jig of some sort. And given the number of holes you have to drill here — &lt;em&gt;bare minimum&lt;/em&gt; 12, two per edge — I would highly recommend using a jig. You can buy dowelling jigs of many kinds, the simpler ones being inexpensive, or you can &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/8242/how-to-make-dowelling-jigs-without-metal-bushings/8243#8243&quot;&gt;make one&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd use a jig for all the holes in the middle of the shelves and uprights you wish to make up, but not for the corner joints as I'll outline below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You expressed concerns about the strength of the dowel joints in the vertical sides and obviously these two butt joints have to resist most of the weight here (both the weight of the plant pot you want to support &lt;em&gt;and that of the MDF below this joint&lt;/em&gt;, i.e. half the total weight of the item). But in order for these joints to fail the edge joints in the MDF must fail along with every single dowel joint. IME nothing short of destruction will withdraw a well-glued dowel from its hole; even before the glue has set it can be extraordinarily difficult to pull one out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some basic pointers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;'Size' the cut ends of the MDF. This means applying some glue prior to application of the main glue and final assembly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use hardwood dowelling if you can get it. Softwood could be sufficient, but hardwood should be stronger&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For 17mm material 8mm dowel should be about perfect. 5mm or 6mm dowelling could be used if it's all you can get but make them longer (100mm?) and consider using more dowels per joint.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are buying in person select your dowel(s) carefully, you want the ones with the straightest grain. Also check the ends and reject any that are obviously ovoid and not circular.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add some means to allow glue to easily escape the holes to prevent hydraulic lock. A single saw cut along the side of a dowel can be sufficient, or see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3841/how-can-i-flute-my-own-dowel-or-create-dowel-with-similar-properties/3851#3851&quot;&gt;previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure your drill bit's diameter and that of the dowel match closely. Don't assume, check.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Freshly sand the outside of your dowel just prior to assembly — only fresh wood surfaces glue strongly and reliably.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't skimp on glue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clamp the joints firmly together and leave in the clamps for at least a couple of hours, preferably overnight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chamfer both ends of every dowel. You can do this by sanding or paring/whittling with a sharp chisel or knife, you might even be able to use a pencil sharpener. This makes inserting them a lot easier.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add a small countersink to every drilled hole. This gives a small pocket for excess glue to collect, reducing squeeze-out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill each hole slightly deeper than half the length of the dowel. This ensures none will bottom out and hold the joint apart, and gives another space for excess glue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Corner joints&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;One might think the attachment of the sides to the shelves presents the same basic difficulty as the joint midway in the sides, but actually it's quite different. Here I would recommend you use through dowels, which allow for an extra level of reinforcement — by angling some of them you get a dovetail-like mechanical advantage, which directly resists pulling forces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So at minimum you'd use three, installed like this: / | \ or this / / \ If you use four you'd do them like this / \ / \ or like this / / \ \ And if you want to go OTT here you'd install five of them like this / \ | / \&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TBH I think with only three that bottom shelf ain't going anywhere given the planned-for load. But since through dowels are so quick and easy to install you lose little adding more for extra peace of mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Done right a dowel joint in solid wood can &lt;em&gt;exceed&lt;/em&gt; the strength of a mortise and tenon, which is often held up as the gold standard of joint strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; If you must use softwood select the dowels with the tightest spacing of grain lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-11-16T18:27:33.387" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13272" CreationDate="2021-11-16T19:14:16.667" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, I think I found &lt;strong&gt;a good&lt;/strong&gt; solution - but it will only work if you have &lt;strong&gt;a lot&lt;/strong&gt; of those squares:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just glue them in two layers - like a brick wall!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fhqcl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fhqcl.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then screw vertical and horizontal &amp;quot;doubleboards&amp;quot; together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will be strong, it should not be difficult and it will probably look much better (like in your photo) than single-board box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(Edit - glue surfaces highlighted by green lines)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8416" LastEditorUserId="8416" LastEditDate="2021-11-18T16:03:45.613" LastActivityDate="2021-11-18T16:03:45.613" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13283" CreationDate="2021-11-16T22:11:49.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are a couple ideas that might help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get a mat cutter that makes vertical cuts, such as a &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B004J1EULG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Logan 350-1&lt;/a&gt;. These normally use razor blades or sometimes utility knife blades. 4 mm plywood is probably a little heavier than what they're meant for, but a half-decent one would still help you make a nice straight cut several times on exactly the same line. You'll probably go through a lot of blades, but that's OK, they're very inexpensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like edge quality is very important to you, so consider cutting your pieces just a bit larger than you want and then sand the edges to get to the final size. You could make a long, narrow sanding block to help you keep the edges very straight. A roll of &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07D5PFW6F&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1&amp;quot;-wide, 150-grit sanding cloth&lt;/a&gt; would be a good choice for this application: it'll leave a smooth edge but still cut quickly enough to get the job done in no time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2021-11-16T22:11:49.660" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13288" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-17T12:36:24.967" Score="1" ViewCount="60" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’d like to preface this question by stating I am a complete novice when it comes to woodworking and this is in fact the very first time tackling anything like it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a 1920s oak desk chair which was in very poor condition and decided to give it a try and restore it. I used a standard off-the-shelf oak wood filler to repair some parts. However, after drying and sanding the colour is noticeably lighter than the actual wood and this will most certainly show after staining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way of getting the filler to match the wood (perhaps paint?) or do I have to retroactively remove it and use a different product? Any help would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11298" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-11-17T12:45:49.050" LastActivityDate="2021-11-17T12:45:49.050" Title="Colouring applied wood filler" Tags="|wood|staining|wood-repair|paint|filler|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13283" CreationDate="2021-11-17T15:01:11.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought I remembered something from Colin Knecht (WoodWorkWeb) on this and here it is,&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Df748qOXMvc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Woodworking with Thin Plywood, like Baltic Birch Plywoods&lt;/a&gt;. The relevant portion is right at the beginning, with a tip not just on how to cut it with a knife&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; but also on a good way to back the cut, although if you have a decent cutting mat that should be fine too. I've cut 3mm / 18&amp;quot; hardboard (much harder to cut than ply) on a cutting mat many times without causing undue damage, although there is inevitably some wear and tear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative method that may also work nicely with your material: scribe-and-snap&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. See it in action here, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwdpXUtwtgU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cut thin plywood without saw and chippings&lt;/a&gt; Be conscious of the orientation of your plies here. Note that Colin's tip about which way to orient the plywood cutting surface underneath isn't relevant here, since you don't cut right through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; when cutting flat material with a knife it is the point that does almost all of the work. With a standard Stanley knife/utility knife you can greatly extend the useful cutting life of every blade by filing, grinding or honing the tip back a small amount each time it has become blunt. I've extended the life of single blades for &lt;em&gt;more than a year&lt;/em&gt; using this simple trick. Here's approximately what they looked like after many months of 'resharpening':&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mPq3V.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mPq3V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; He's using a standard utility knife but a boxcutter/Olfa knife should work as well, and more easily allows for a fresh cutting point to be available after the material inevitably blunts the tip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; If your thin plywood is more than 3-ply this method won't be quite as effective as shown, but could still work well enough that it's the method you'll end up using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-11-17T15:01:11.707" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13181" CreationDate="2021-11-17T18:41:51.073" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are MANY resources out there and many different topics to want to learn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A list of ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.newyankee.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;New Yankee Workshop&lt;/a&gt; I suspect many episodes are available on YouTube and other similar woodworking TV shows.  Most episodes should have a way to search for tools or projects you'd like to learn about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;LOTS of books.  Amazon has a lot of books by a lot of woodworkers written from the last 50 years or more.  Most of what you can get out of the old books is still going to be true today, other than we have more tools available for tasks and a lot more gluing finishing options.  Many libraries have a pretty good collection as well so you can save on the costs there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I suspect most power tool manufacturers have YouTube videos of their tools in action and hopefully user guides and prime safety instructions as well.  Many might have these as a way to promote their tools and all the things you can do with them (hopefully safely).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Makers Space / community ed / community collages. All require some upfront costs but you can get professional training at all 3 by taking classes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a. Makers Space - I haven't used these yet but have known several different people who have and all enjoy them.  You can get a membership to be able to use the tools they have, they have classes available for a fee (don't usually need to be a member to take the class but I believe you get a discount if you are).  They will teach you how to do different things and can show you how to use the equipment which with a membership you can continue to use.  Most have quite a bit of the big spendy stuff you can't afford to have or even the space to keep it.  So you can use their stuff and finish it at your home shop!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b. Community Ed.  - I don't know how common these classes are any more but they used to be available.  In my area we have a couple 'folk schools' which offer these kinds of classes now, they offer a wide range, similar to Maker Spaces but they are entirely geared to teaching, not being open for community members to just walk in any time and use the facilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;c. Community/Tech colleges - Not all, but many offer woodworking classes and you don't need to be going for a degree or program to get into many of these. They are probably the most expensive of the lot but the training is the most intense and you can walk away with some great finished projects.  My dad took one of those 30 years ago and made all the kitchen cabinets, I think he might have had to take the course twice to get it all done, but they were beautiful and lasted as long as we lived there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;5&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if your lucky you might have some woodworking clubs in your area and would be a great source of knowledge and probably specific books and other resources to help on specific projects.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more you learn the better you'll be able to decide which YouTuber's are worth following and which should be avoided.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2021-11-17T18:54:04.970" LastActivityDate="2021-11-17T18:54:04.970" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13181" CreationDate="2021-11-17T20:25:11.950" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend following youtube channels (roughly in descending order of &amp;quot;beginner friendliness&amp;quot;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rex Krueger: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/c/RexKrueger&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/c/RexKrueger&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stumpy Nubs: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/c/StumpyNubs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/c/StumpyNubs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paul Sellers: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/c/PaulSellersWoodwork&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/c/PaulSellersWoodwork&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wood By Wright: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/c/WoodWright&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/c/WoodWright&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rob Cosman:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/c/RobCosmancom&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/c/RobCosmancom&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Edit: while I would still recommend watching his videos, it's probably better to watch them AFTER you have learned a lot from the others.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ALL of them are either extremely good woodworkers, or extremely good teachers or both.&lt;/strong&gt; I myself learned most of what I know from these people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: I am mostly hand-tools oriented, so there is a bias towards hand-tools, but most of those people I recommend work with both hand-tools and power tools - and I think it's good to know some hand tool techniques even if you mostly work with power tools and vice versa, even if I like hand tool work most, some jobs are just better handled by power tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8416" LastEditorUserId="8416" LastEditDate="2021-11-18T12:48:51.477" LastActivityDate="2021-11-18T12:48:51.477" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13132" CreationDate="2021-11-22T16:10:25.783" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried using chalk?  A light coating of chalk on the piece you want to fit, then try it out, make it snug so it 'rubs' on the other pieces.  All the high points that need to be sanded down should show wear where they rub and the low spots would be untouched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 1 or 2 rounds, might need to clean up the chalk because it will tend to spread out over everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW &lt;strike&gt;I'd use white chalk, any bright colors might be hard to completely clean out of all the pores. &lt;/strike&gt;  Others who've used this method prefer colors to help visually, so what ever works for you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2021-11-23T16:10:02.250" LastActivityDate="2021-11-23T16:10:02.250" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13296" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-23T04:59:10.297" Score="2" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I got married and bought a house, my parents gave me their old dining set— the one I grew up with. It’s seen a lot of abuse from my kids at my house and I decided to get it and the chairs refinished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took it to a seemingly well-regarded professional furniture refinisher here in the Vancouver area. After several weeks he called me to say the work was done and I could come and pick up the chairs and table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think he did a good job re-upholstering the chairs but the wood work seems quite a bit below par for the cost — many thousands of dollars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you tell me if this is adequate workmanship? I’m really upset over this because I was told that he was a good refinisher but the quality of the work seems like shit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JSTAG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JSTAG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;one of the leaves&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X0eK4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X0eK4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;corner detail&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QckAg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QckAg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;scratches on the tabletop&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yo3QL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yo3QL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;unfinished corner&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rIVEO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rIVEO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;another corner&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4372" LastActivityDate="2021-11-23T19:28:57.157" Title="Is this a professional furniture refinishing job?" Tags="|finishing|wood|furniture|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13296" CreationDate="2021-11-23T19:28:57.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the assessment of how good this refinishing job is going to vary, and this subjectivity may lead to the Question ultimately being locked. However I think at least part of this isn't purely subjective....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you tell me if this is adequate workmanship?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this is a good question to include since it can be assessed fairly objectively. And the answer is a definite no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the quality of the work seems like shit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the client, really your opinion is the most important one. And if you think it looks like shit then that pretty much sums it up; nobody should get back a piece of furniture after a professional has done their work and have any legitimate basis for thinking this. And while I'd want to see more of the dining set to get a better overall picture, from what we can see in the images I'd be inclined to agree with your assessment!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm shocked at how bad this is in a few areas, not least given the quoted cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't be surprised to see work of this (low) calibre from some of the hobbyist refinishers/furniture flippers on YouTube. And there are at least a handful capable of much better work than this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some specifics issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The cross-grain scratches&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;These are visible in at least two images and I'd guess they're more widespread; to put it bluntly these are a sure sign of amateurish or outright inept workmanship (depending on whether they were there to begin with or not).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No person engaged in this work who is calling themselves a professional should &lt;em&gt;create&lt;/em&gt; scratches like this; it is pretty literally Sanding 101 to learn how not to do this!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, what if they were there to begin with? It is by no means a gigantic task to remove them, &lt;em&gt;without it taking a long time&lt;/em&gt;, if you know what you're doing. So IMO it is amateur hour to leave them, unless a prior agreement was made specifically stating there would be no surfacing work or something along those lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The speckling/flecking&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This is the worst part of this I think. Although I can visualise a possible cause in the workshop I can't imagine anyone but the most amateurish leaving them if they were responsible for causing them&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One quick thing in relation to something you said later in the Comments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Refinishing&amp;quot; doesn't automatically mean a complete removal of finish down to bare wood and application of fresh finish, although of course the full monty can be specified in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are levels of intervention, which (often) lead to only partial refinishing in the literal meaning of the word&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. There are legitimate cases where spot-refinishing or refreshing of the existing finish &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; the right call, based on finish type (easiest with shellac or traditional lacquers), an assessment of condition, and budget.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; There are just certain things you can't accept if you call yourself a pro, even if it ends up costing you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; On tables for example it's very common for only the tabletop to be refinished (and &lt;em&gt;sometimes&lt;/em&gt; the top surface only, and not the four edges), with the understructure and legs to only have light touch-up work done to them IF needed, only cleaned and polished if not needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-11-23T19:28:57.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13300" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-26T18:18:03.820" Score="1" ViewCount="1220" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m new to live edge woodworking. I am finishing a walnut slab for a kitchen table that has some minor defects such as small cracks and knotty areas. I would like to fill those with epoxy. But unsure of the steps I need to do this in. I want to tung oil the slab and have a ending overall finish of a hand rubbed poly. Not sure if all of these materials will work together or the order and process that I should do them in. Any info would be of great help.&#xA;Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11329" LastActivityDate="2021-11-30T08:30:53.663" Title="What order do I go in to fill defects in wood?" Tags="|finishing|finish-selection|polyurethane|epoxy|tung-oil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13301" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-26T23:04:09.537" Score="0" ViewCount="549" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm an absolute noob when it comes to woodworking, but now I'm in the middle of my first (some sort of) drawer/shelves building project.&#xA;I've glued together all four sides (store bought edge glued pine boards) with butt joints  using clamps, and to me it seems like the joints are tight and solid, but in retrospect I feel like I should've used wood plugs cause that'd make the fitting so much easier. I used Titebond III.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, now I'm wondering if I should reinforce the joints to secure them more even if the glue has dried? Will it even make a difference with nails or screws at this point?&#xA;I'm going to put in drawer slides that will carry some weight, so I don't want the glued joints to be the weakest link in the build.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11331" LastActivityDate="2021-11-27T17:05:04.720" Title="Reinforce glued butt joints?" Tags="|glue|butt-joint|drawer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2803" CreationDate="2021-11-27T01:26:30.927" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;50:50 Varathane Early American and Colonial Maple. It is almost an exact match on pine. Made a ton of blends and bought a ton of stain. There’s nothing off the shelf that’s a good match&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11332" LastEditorUserId="10942" LastEditDate="2021-11-28T18:34:45.890" LastActivityDate="2021-11-28T18:34:45.890" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13301" CreationDate="2021-11-27T09:29:29.733" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you should reinforce because you probably did not glue perfectly so your joints won't be 100%. Storage furniture may be moved when full and heavy, pulling on all corner joints, so it is good to build very strongly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nails, screws or dowels from outside into edges are all possible. Pre-drill for screws or nails to prevent splitting. Drill undersized holes for nails, this way for screws:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4vQPx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4vQPx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;screw holes&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Minimum length for dowels or screws is maybe 60mm or 2.5&amp;quot;, 2 or 3 per joint. Nails can be shorter because you will use more, maybe 4-5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many related Questions here to help with similar builds in future, these ones may be most useful to you:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4595&quot;&gt;Quick corner joints in practice&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4850&quot;&gt;Not-so-obvious disadvantages of butt joints&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-11-27T17:05:04.720" LastActivityDate="2021-11-27T17:05:04.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13300" CreationDate="2021-11-27T09:33:37.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If slab is already flat and prepared the correct order is: fill wth epoxy, sand the fills flat, then apply oil, then apply poly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Some cracks may go through thickness of wood, to prevent epoxy leaking seal back surface with tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Since you will apply poly you do not need to sand above 180.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wipe all oil not absorbed by the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wait for the oil to 'dry' one day before applying poly, in case more oil shows on surface of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rags used to apply oil or poly are a fire hazard, dry flat and then dispose of in trash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you will stain then you don't oil. Then the correct order is: fill with epoxy, sand the fills flat, stain, then apply poly after stain is completely dried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastEditorUserId="10942" LastEditDate="2021-11-30T08:30:53.663" LastActivityDate="2021-11-30T08:30:53.663" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13306" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13324" CreationDate="2021-11-27T19:28:36.443" Score="7" ViewCount="554" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to cut grooves, 5/8&amp;quot; deep and 1/2&amp;quot; wide (well, actually 15/32 because it's to fit plywood) in finished 2x4 stock (so, some kind of pine). I have a new set of stackable dado blades from Freud (so, sharp). I use a tall featherboard against the fence. Everything seems to be set up straight, and the bottom face of the groove has the correct width, but the opening is 0.5 to 1 mm wider, so the plywood fits loosely (picture slightly exaggerates the difference).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What am I doing wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YhyCw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YhyCw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Diagram&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eRUjL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eRUjL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Saw setup&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X0nSR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X0nSR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Blade&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2021-12-03T14:01:26.223" LastActivityDate="2021-12-04T01:12:07.860" Title="Why are dado sides not parallel?" Tags="|table-saw|dado-stack|groove|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13306" CreationDate="2021-11-27T21:12:03.760" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is that when you stacked the blades and chippers, you didn't quite get them perfectly vertical, then when you tightened the nut down, it clamped them tight, but that one or the other of the outer blades isn't perfectly perpendicular to the table. I'd say it's especially likely to have happened if you've got any shims in the stack to get to your exact desired width. Since the shims are so thin, they can fall into the threads of the arbor and sit crooked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Raise the dado all the way up and use a square to check. You may have to rotate the blade up to 180° to find where it's out. My personal procedure is to unplug the saw before doing so, even though it's &lt;code&gt;Really Tough™&lt;/code&gt; to accidently hit the power switch. I'm kinda fond of my fingers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's the problem, loosen the locking nut, wiggle the blades a bit to get them to sit square and snug, make sure any shims are sitting squarely &lt;em&gt;on top&lt;/em&gt; of the arbor threads (and haven't fallen into a thread) then hold the outer blade against the stack to keep them all tight while you get the nut finger tight. Then tighten the nut as appropriate with your wrenches. Double check with your square to ensure this setup is now properly squared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2021-11-27T23:15:57.627" LastActivityDate="2021-11-27T23:15:57.627" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2647" CreationDate="2021-11-29T02:33:51.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m building a coffee table out of pine 12x12’s that I believe to be in the 200 year old range possibly much older. They were structural support beams in a building in the meat packing district of Manhattan, the building is at least 150 years old .and after cutting them to length one of them is oozing sap-pitch,it looks like I opened a pocket and out came quite a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11344" LastActivityDate="2021-11-29T02:33:51.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12724" CreationDate="2021-11-29T14:10:09.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Guitar makers do this all the time, but they don't use a saw, generally. Create a jig that holds a chisel as a scraper, and then you pull the strips through it, narrowing the space &lt;em&gt;slightly&lt;/em&gt; each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is to saw oversized and then plane or scrape to thickness. The takeaway here is that 1/8inch strips are best thought of as &amp;quot;binding&amp;quot;. And binding has traditionally been made with a scraper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for how to get the starter strip, that depends on the kind of wood. Again, guitar makers would probably be doing this with softwood, and the initial cut would just be careful successive cuts with a sharp knife along a scribed line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-11-29T17:39:01.067" LastActivityDate="2021-11-29T17:39:01.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13311" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-29T16:11:27.587" Score="0" ViewCount="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;Going to use a prestain, then perhaps golden oak to even out the dark and light variations.   Question what do I protect it with against red wine etc.   I already have a red wine ring .    I have used varothane but wondering about boiled linseed, tung oil etc.    I have never used these oils tho. Worried that wood would crack?  Oil better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11349" LastActivityDate="2021-11-29T16:11:27.587" Title="Live wood coffee table" Tags="|finishing|wood|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2021-11-29T20:48:52.247" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13312" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13322" CreationDate="2021-11-29T16:18:20.747" Score="1" ViewCount="394" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking about applying polyurethane on my wood to protect it against moisture.  But I'm concerned about bubbles forming in the polyurethane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see why bubbles may form when applying polyurethane improperly when using a &lt;em&gt;brush&lt;/em&gt;, but what I don't know is whether bubbles can form when applying the same by spraying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; How likely is it for bubbles to form with spray-applied polyurethane compared to brush-applied?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11065" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2021-11-29T17:52:33.807" LastActivityDate="2022-01-10T19:14:42.497" Title="How likely is it for bubbles to form with spray-applied polyrethane compared to brush-applied?" Tags="|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13313" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2021-11-29T16:57:41.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A dado stack has a combination of blades, shims and/or chippers primarily used to create dados (UK: housing joints), grooves or rabbets (UK: rebates) on the table saw. Can also be used to create tenons, half-laps (UK: halving joints) and box joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By combining the two outside blades with one or more shims and/or chippers you can mill out various widths with each pass. Minimum width is created using just the two outside blades, maximum will use all shims and chippers supplied with the kit. You MUST include both outside blades for safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-11-29T16:57:41.430" LastActivityDate="2021-11-29T16:57:41.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13314" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2021-11-29T16:57:41.430" Score="0" Body="A combination set used for milling grooves on the table saw wider than the kerf of a single sawblade." OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-11-29T16:57:41.430" LastActivityDate="2021-11-29T16:57:41.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13315" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2021-11-29T17:00:22.127" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A groove is a channel that runs along the grain, in contrast to the dado (UK: housing joint) which goes across the grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-11-29T17:00:22.127" LastActivityDate="2021-11-29T17:00:22.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13316" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2021-11-29T17:00:22.127" Score="0" Body="A groove is a channel that runs along the grain." OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-11-29T17:00:22.127" LastActivityDate="2021-11-29T17:00:22.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13312" CreationDate="2021-11-29T17:55:43.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually sprayed on finishes are much smoother than brushed finishes, no matter what kind of finish you're applying, and I've never heard of bubbling being an issue with sprayed finishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually the issue you'll run into with a sprayed finish is getting runs because you've held the sprayer too close to the surface or moved too slowly thus applying the finish too thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So long as you do light coats, you should be very satisfied with a sprayed finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this applies to both spray cans (rattle cans) or to finishes applied using spray equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2021-11-29T17:55:43.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12944" CreationDate="2021-11-29T19:40:49.707" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Graphus pointed out in the comments to your question.  Many of your requirements are mutually exclusive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any oil finish only give some protection from moisture, at least as far as flooring goes, and they definitely all make the wood darker (change color) some times by quite a bit, depending on the oil and the number of coats, oil will need to be reapplied more frequently than many other finishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything short of an epoxy floor finish will likely need to be redone every 10-15 years with moderate to heavy use. An oil finish might be 2-3 years.  Primary entry doorway vs the unused guest bedroom makes a huge difference in wear.  White oak can take a pretty good beating all by itself for physical abuse, but without protection it will tend to stain and discolor, which would require more sanding to fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My dad put a clear epoxy floor finish on his hardwood floor, it had 5 different hardwoods in it and they all have beautiful color and the floor is very scratch/wear resistant.  Dog nails don't leave a mark.  It should be a couple decades before it needs any work baring any extreme misuse.  Now because it's an epoxy, (2-part to mix, then apply) it takes a little more work and forethought, but once it's done shouldn't have to worry about it for a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2021-11-29T19:40:49.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12924" CreationDate="2021-11-29T19:48:22.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I didn't read all the comments to your post, however, I was thinking just putting a backing on it.  even something as simple as black construction paper glued to the whole thing then use a scalpel or exacto knife to follow and cut out the shape after the glue has set.  You could try a piece of fabric instead but I think the paper would probably do it, at the very least, it should reduce the chances of losing a piece should it break again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2021-12-03T19:57:30.877" LastActivityDate="2021-12-03T19:57:30.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13300" CreationDate="2021-11-30T04:22:57.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many &amp;quot;live edge&amp;quot; slabs/boards have structural issues like voids, knots, cracks, etc. which can be filled using two-part epoxy. To prepare the surface, sand with coarse grit sandpaper to remove dirt, debris, etc. and to expose any hidden defects and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because most large defects generally extend to the opposite side of the slab, you will have to cover the opposite side of the defect to contain the epoxy. Sticky tape, like duct tape, masking tape (maybe more than one layer) or similar should hold the epoxy in place until it sets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mix the epoxy of your choice in a quantity to fill the defect(s). It's generally better to mix up a little more than you need than to come up short and have to mix up another batch. Ideally, you want to do it all in one &amp;quot;pour&amp;quot; when possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you mix up the epoxy you can also tint it with dyes or acrylics to help it blend in with the wood. The color choice is up to your personal preference, but people often use black epoxy because it tends to blend in better than big clear areas, but you can do any color of the rainbow, if that's what you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be aware of the &amp;quot;open time&amp;quot; of the epoxy. This refers to the time it takes for the epoxy to start to firm up and lose it's liquidity. This is typically anywhere from 5 to 60 minutes. You want the epoxy to be as liquid as possible to make it easier to get into the voids. For large voids (or a large number of voids) you'll want a longer open time to allow you to fill all the holes without having to hurry, but for smaller voids (or a small number) you can get away with shorter open times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;em&gt;gazillions&lt;/em&gt; of sources for complete tutorials and how-tos for detailed steps for filling voids in wood using epoxy. A lot are about making fake rivers and lava flows in table tops. Most of them are good enough to get you through the process. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.finewoodworking.com/2007/10/26/use-epoxy-to-fill-voids-in-wood&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is one&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've filled the knots, defects and miscellaneous voids, you'll want to machine the slab flat. That could entail sanding or planing depending on the condition of your slab, the tools you have available, and your personal skill set. In any case, the goal is to smooth out the slab so that not only the wood, but also the epoxy is one smooth plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once that is accomplished, you'll want to sand the surface of the wood using a coarse grit and progressing to finer and finer grits to get the wood surface ready for finishing. As an example, you could start with 80 grit and then to 120 grit, and then 220 grit (or some similar progression). There are also a &lt;em&gt;gazillion&lt;/em&gt; sources for finish sanding and proper use of sandpaper grits (including a bunch of SE questions and answers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once that is completed you can apply the finish of your choice. You can use whatever oil or finish you want at this point. They will not react poorly with the epoxy. There are many questions here regarding applying finishes and polyurethanes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastActivityDate="2021-11-30T04:22:57.723" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13312" CreationDate="2021-11-30T14:38:20.367" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see why bubbles may form when applying polyurethane improperly when using a brush&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bubbles can actually occur even with good application technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously if bubbles are present in the finish to begin with they can be transferred to the surface — hence the very common &amp;quot;Do not shake&amp;quot; instruction on cans of finish — but even when the finish has zero bubbles in it initially bubbles can form during application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is due to turbulence caused by the drag of the application tool&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; over the surface; this is the &lt;em&gt;primary&lt;/em&gt; cause of bubbles  (source: Bob Flexner).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bubble formation and remaining bubbles after drying are much more of a problem with waterbased finishes than with oil-based varnish&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How likely is it for bubbles to form with spray-applied polyurethane compared to brush-applied?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pretty unlikely! You'll notice, in contrast to the instructions on normal containers, spraycans instruct us to shake well ^_^&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From this you can tell that bubbles are a non-issue with spray application. When sprayed a liquid is highly compressed and then converted to &lt;em&gt;tiny&lt;/em&gt; droplets, which eliminates bubbles of any significant size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; This includes natural and synthetic bristle brushes, foam brushes and even wiping rags. You can watch this process occur in front of your eyes next time you apply varnish or waterbased finish at anything other than a snail's pace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; For a number of reasons, one of which is that oil-based varnishes usually dry much more slowly which gives time for bubbles to rise to the surface naturally and pop. Also oil-based varnish can safely be heavily diluted (e.g. when converted to wiping varnish) which eliminates the problem of bubbles nearly 100%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-11-30T14:38:20.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8356" CreationDate="2021-11-30T15:45:02.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you are obviously aware, you will have to make two (or more) passes to get your rabbet as wide as needed.  I don't think it matters too much which is first, but I would tend to do the outside first and move inward, the primary reason I would do that is because as you move in, you still have wood next to the blades touching the table top, making it harder to 'cut too deep'.  If you start on the inside and go out, it is easier to push harder or accidentally 'lift' the far end leaving the end 'thinner' than the rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also try to make sure that a full toothed blade of the dado hit's the end, I feel it would leave a cleaner cut than one of the inner chipping blades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an alternative, since a rabbet is on the end of the board, you also have the option to stand the board on end and run it through, this would allow you to cut the whole rabbet in 1 pass, as long as the blade will stand out tall enough.  Though if you do this you can actually cut it with 2 cuts of a regular blade, one flat at the inside edge of the rabbet, and the other standing up at the 'depth' of the rabbet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This last does have limitations, since cutting a rabbet across the end of a really long board would be difficult and probably dangerous, it should be limited to boards that are easy to handle for the cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No matter how you cut rabbets with a table saw, you need to be careful and aware of the blade, because for most table saws you have to take the blade guard off to make the cut, since you are not cutting through the board.  Unless you've paid for one of the guards that hover over the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2021-11-30T15:45:02.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13306" CreationDate="2021-11-30T17:19:45.633" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that your fence is not perfectly aligned with the face of the dado blade.  The out of alignment will cause the groove at the table surface to be wider.  The deeper part of the grove will be narrower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As others have commented, first ensure that the dado blade is assembled properly and square to the arbor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the fence alignment at both the beginning and end of the cut against the tip of blade.  Distance A and B should be exactly the same.  Any deviation between A and B will produce the slanted wall of the groove you are describing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make 2 or 3 multiple cuts versus one deep cut.  Pass the wood in the same direction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To check the alignment of the blade to the fence, raise the dado blade to the highest level.  With the blade at its highest, check that Distance A and B are the same.  With the blade at its highest, this will exaggerate any difference between Distance A &amp;amp; B.  Once A and B are equal, lower the blade to the proper depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fx5Fp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fx5Fp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8556" LastEditorUserId="8556" LastEditDate="2021-11-30T20:58:34.127" LastActivityDate="2021-11-30T20:58:34.127" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13325" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13326" CreationDate="2021-11-30T19:00:54.123" Score="6" ViewCount="1710" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making some trivets (beech, oak) as christmass gifts and I'm not sure what finish to use - I'm not really too much concerned about trivet's finish damage - I'm more concerned about finish leaving some residue on hot pots - that would be pretty bad gift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trivets are made of beech and oak (probably red oak? - I'm in europe).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I want from the finish:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;to be reasonably durable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;to withstant boiling water temperature i.e. 100 C (212 F) &lt;strong&gt;without leaving any stains on pots&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't care about gloss/satin/whatever - those trivets should be more tools than decoration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My most used finishes for small items are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;boiled linseed oil + wax&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;boiled linseed oil + shellac&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;oil based polyurethane (this is what I think would be best)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure wax is out of question - what about shellac or poly? Will they melt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also feel free to suggest other finishes you'd think would work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I know I can make test boards, and I may end up doing so anyway, but I want to know what you would use)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit - what about epoxy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8416" LastEditorUserId="8416" LastEditDate="2021-11-30T23:28:47.410" LastActivityDate="2021-12-01T14:05:39.803" Title="Heat resistant finish for beech/oak trivets" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13325" CreationDate="2021-11-30T20:45:43.537" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, in this case my recommendation would be to not put a finish on them, they will work just fine as is, both woods' can take a bit of punishment and still look good just a nice sanding job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want 'something' of a finish, I'd probably go with a oil finish, but you need to be careful there because many are nut oils, peanut/walnut etc. which can be dangerous for those with nut allergies.  Hot pots and pans could evaporate some of those bits and pieces into the air to be breathed in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDT: And it looks like BLO might not be a good candidate, according to the comments, it does not like heat, which can soften it up again (and make it sticky).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2021-12-01T14:05:39.803" LastActivityDate="2021-12-01T14:05:39.803" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12941" CreationDate="2021-12-01T15:29:05.403" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2 ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have my compound miter saw semi-permanently attached to a work bench I build on wheels.  but I do some times need to take it with me to other locations.  So I drilled holes though the top of the bench and tightened it down with wing-nut bolts, fairly easy to take it off and reapply it.  and if I'm lazy I just put the bolts through so it won't move but leave the wing nuts off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;attach it to a board just a little larger than the base of the saw.  I've done this with my Kreg Jig and then when I need it I use a clamp to secure it to a bench top.  Sounds like you might have tried this, and I don't understand why your ply wood would warp, especially if you had 2 layers.  unless they were really thin.  Or the base of your band saw was so bad that it pulled the boards enough to rock.  If this is the case you might want to level the bandsaw on the boards with shims before you bolt them together.  in either case using a clamp to secure the board to your bench top should help with the rocking as well, use 2 if the rocking is really bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2021-12-01T15:29:05.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13328" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13329" CreationDate="2021-12-01T22:57:32.287" Score="3" ViewCount="248" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know the best technique to cut a wooden ball into four identical pieces that meet together in the middle. Obviously, cutting it along two perpendicular planes is a solution, but I want something that resembles this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G6uQw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G6uQw.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is done on a tetrahedron, but the idea is the same for the ball: the pieces should meet together in the middle the same way they do on this tetrahedron. &lt;a href=&quot;https://demonstrations.wolfram.com/DividingARegularTetrahedronIntoFourCongruentPieces/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is an applet I found that allows for 3D manipulation of the tetrahedron, as well as offsetting the four pieces a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know the cleanest way to do it, as later I'd like to carve little cylindrical holes on each piece to add magnets that hold the thing together, and allow for manipulation. Considering I can do the measurements (and that's easier said than done), how do do the actual cutting? How to know where the blade should stop without going too far in the middle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe a better solution would be to just double the amount of material and start with a half-ball, that I can then carve to the correct shape? But I can see two issues with that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It double the costs on material, because of the waste that will be produced.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to make sure that the pieces are fitting together nicely? Cutting one too much and you're left with something that's closer to an ostrich's egg than to an actual round ball...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11354" LastActivityDate="2021-12-04T03:22:33.607" Title="Cutting a wooden ball in four pieces" Tags="|cutting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="17" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13328" CreationDate="2021-12-01T23:49:17.943" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is what I would do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make those 4 equal parts separately as 4 little tetrahedrons - that way I'd be able to make sure the angles are correct&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make inter-contact surfaces as good fit as I can (while &lt;em&gt;completely ignoring&lt;/em&gt; the &amp;quot;outer&amp;quot; surfaces)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dry fit several times to make sure it fits together nicely&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;finish the inner contact surfaces with something really &lt;strong&gt;hard&lt;/strong&gt; and durable - polyurethane, epoxy, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wait for the finish to fully cure (this could be a long time for poly)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;temporarily glue all pieces together (blue tape and superglue, doublesided tape, etc..)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;carefully&lt;/strong&gt; turn out into a sphere on a lathe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;break temporary glue and clean up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;finish outer surface&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;drill small holes and glue/screw in the magnets&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8416" LastActivityDate="2021-12-01T23:49:17.943" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12941" CreationDate="2021-12-02T16:03:18.690" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a small shop, so I cannot afford many dedicated work surfaces for the bench-top equipment I have acquired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a re-purposed Ikea kitchen island that I used for a router table and for a scroll saw. both have feet with similar dimension holes through them. I sat both on this &amp;quot;bench&amp;quot; and marked out the holes in the feet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I drilled out the holes and epoxied threaded inserts into the holes. This allows me to securely bolt the router table or saw down using four bolts. When neither the router or the saw are in use I have a small &amp;quot;wrist-height&amp;quot; bench that has a number of threaded through-holes in the top. I recommend through-holes so dust and chips don't fill up the holes as easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My lower profile work bench I built is made so that I can use dogs and hold-fasts to hold bench-top tooling down. So I have a choice of heights for using this stuff. I may install threaded inserts into this bench as well. At least for the scroll saw, which is used more at sitting height anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-12-02T18:55:05.693" LastActivityDate="2021-12-02T18:55:05.693" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3716" CreationDate="2021-12-02T16:27:13.210" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is an old question, but for any future readers it's worth mentioning that the damaged part in the OP's photo is called the &lt;em&gt;keyslip&lt;/em&gt;, and it'll be easy to remove on any piano because removing it is necessary in order to get access to the &lt;em&gt;action&lt;/em&gt;, the assembly of keys and hammers. &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/xd7_g9LL9rE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's a video&lt;/a&gt; that explains how to remove the action, including removing the keyslip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At a minimum, you should remove the keyslip before attempting to repair it. Don't try to repair it in place or you'll risk damaging the keys and making the problem worse. Once you've removed the keyslip, I'd take it to a reputable piano repair shop (if needed, get recommendations from your piano tuner or a nearby music store or piano dealer). Find out how much it would cost to have them repair the damage, whether a new or used keyslip for your piano can be purchased as a spare part, and at what price. Knowing that you can always buy a new one if you screw up will make it much easier to decide to attempt a DIY repair; knowing that none is available, or that they're very expensive, would make me lean toward having a pro make the repair instead. They might also be willing to tell you what steps are involved in correctly repairing that kind of damage, which will also inform your decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2021-12-02T16:27:13.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13306" CreationDate="2021-12-02T17:44:32.127" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One possibility is that the dado blade is not square, and in that case I would expect to see circular saw marks in opposite direction on the interior faces of the slot you are cutting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may also be the case that removing the material is causing the wood to warp.  If that is what is happening, then would probably also see variation in the slot along its length.  Assuming this is happening in a rip-wise cut, you could see whether the same thing happens in a cross-cut.  If it happens with cuts in either direction, it's probably an alignment problem, otherwise, it's wood warping, and you could get around that by making smaller cuts, &lt;em&gt;i.e.&lt;/em&gt; not trying to cut the full width of the slot in one pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8547" LastActivityDate="2021-12-02T17:44:32.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12941" CreationDate="2021-12-02T17:47:14.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to install adjustable leveling feet on your bandsaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SZUnu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SZUnu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.castorsandindustrial.com.au/adjustable-levelling-feet.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;variety of types&lt;/a&gt; available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would allow you to set the bandsaw on a variety of surfaces without rocking and not have to bolt it to anything.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;When you finish using the bandsaw you could movie it keeping full mobility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6222" LastActivityDate="2021-12-02T17:47:14.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13328" CreationDate="2021-12-03T07:54:33.193" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know the best technique to cut a wooden ball into four identical pieces that meet together in the middle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jan Spurny's solution is a good one, maybe the best way to go if you just want to end up with pieces that can be assembled into a sphere. However, it doesn't solve the problem if you actually want to start with a sphere and end up with a sphere. For that, you need a different approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're really facing two practical problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Commonly available woodworking tools can't make deep, stopped cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A saw blade removes material in its kerf, so as soon as you cut a sphere the pieces won't go together to form a real sphere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can solve the first problem by cutting all the way through the sphere rather than trying to only cut partway through. This will leave you with 12 pieces (I think) rather than the four sections you want: each one will have to be glued together from three smaller pieces, but that's really the only practical way to start with a sphere and end up with one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To solve the second problem, you need to replace the wood that's lost to the saw kerf. If I were going to attempt this project, I'd definitely choose a band saw; of the various common tools, it takes the narrowest kerf by far, and it's well suited to cutting a thick, round object like a sphere. Band saw blades that cut a 0.048&amp;quot; kerf aren't hard to find, and adhesive-backed 0.020&amp;quot; veneer is available. If you can manage to cut your sphere in half cleanly, you can add a layer of veneer to each cut face. Between the veneer and the adhesive, you'll just about make up for the missing wood. (You could skip the veneer if you don't care about the final sphere being &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; a sphere, but I'd worry that errors caused by the kerfs might accumulate.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take your sphere and imagine that it's circumscribed about a tetrahedron. Mark the 4 vertices of that tetrahedron on the surface, and then connect each pair of vertices with a line, continuing the lines all the way around the sphere to form four great circles. Those are your cut lines. Before you start cutting, number all the triangles formed on the surface by the intersecting circles and take pictures of both sides of the sphere for later references. Cut the sphere in half along one of those lines; realistically, you're probably going to want to build some sort of jig for holding the sphere securely during each cut. Separate the hemispheres, add the veneer, and put them back together, securing them with some reliable tape around the cut line. Rotate and cut another line, add veneer, and so forth until you finish all four cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, you'll need to identify the three parts that make up each section and glue them back together. You should end up with four sections that fit together to make a sphere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2021-12-03T07:54:33.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13306" CreationDate="2021-12-03T19:57:15.223" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not to take anything away from the accepted answer (or the others) I think it's important to mention how to go about fixing the problem  although the original question was concerning what's causing the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the photos in the original post (especially the second one) seems to show that the saw blade is not square to the rest of the table saw. The distance between the teeth and the sides of the throat plate cut-out are plainly not the same at both ends of the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By setting the blade and the fence to the common reference point of the miter slot, you will have your saw dialed-in to a specific &amp;quot;landmark&amp;quot; and close to the precision limits of the machine. That miter slot is never going to move so it makes a good &amp;quot;zero&amp;quot; to calibrate everything else from. This should eliminate this problem and other similar ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do this (both moves, actually) by eye, but you'll get better results using &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07C9RMJQ7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a gauge like this&lt;/a&gt;, for example. Using a gauge like this allows you to measure from the center of the miter slot rather than the walls of the slot. I doubt that both walls of most miter slots are exactly parallel along their length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;What you need to do to correct this:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. Set the arbor/blade square to the miter slot on the saw table.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically the miter slot on the right side of the blade. Adjusting this usually entails loosening some bolts on the bottom surface of the saw table and &amp;quot;tapping&amp;quot; the trunnion mounts one way or another to move the heel of the saw blade to the right or left and bring it in line with the miter slot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.in-lineindustries.com/products/contractor-saw-pals/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;aftermarket attachments that you can get to dial this trunnion adjustment in&lt;/a&gt;, but they can be kind of tricky on some saws or not available for others. Here's &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YZK9qmbLOxY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a video of a guy showing how to make this adjustment on a saw similar to yours&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of points: Use a &amp;quot;regular&amp;quot; blade (not the dado stack) and measure from the flat part of a single tooth (not the carbide tip) to cancel out any deformity in the blade itself. &lt;em&gt;Get this as accurate as you can&lt;/em&gt; but a couple of thousandths of an inch are probably as good as it gets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. Set the fence square to the same miter slot.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measure the distance from the front of the fence to the miter slot and the rear of the fence to the miter slot. Depending on your particular fence, shim/adjust to make these measurements match or &lt;em&gt;nearly match&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people will intentionally set the trailing edge of their fence a couple thousandths away from the blade to  prevent kick-back. I don't know if that's entirely valid, but it makes sense. If you're going to have it slightly out, it would be better to have it open up after the blade instead of narrowing against the blade. (I'm sure there's lively discussion on this topic elsewhere here....)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next steps could very well be to look into a replacement/upgrade to the fence system. I haven't used the saw you have, so I don't know how good the fence is. The problem with lower-end, factory fences is that they are not terribly &amp;quot;repeatable&amp;quot;. In a nut-shell, there's too much difference between one cut and the next that are supposed to be the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many after-market, and plans for &amp;quot;DIY&amp;quot; fences, that you can replace the stock fence with and see vastly improved precision and ease of use. Problem is, building a DIY fence is at the mercy of the existing fence... so you may end up having to make multiple homemade fences as the accuracy improves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The saw I use most is a 30+ year old Craftsman contractor saw which someone gave me to get rid of. After tuning and aligning it using these steps, I can make repeatable cuts within about .005&amp;quot; accuracy... which seems to be good enough for what I'm doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2021-12-04T01:12:07.860" LastActivityDate="2021-12-04T01:12:07.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13338" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-04T18:26:57.790" Score="7" ViewCount="674" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I found bugs in wood that I've had air drying for the last few years. What are they, and is the wood still safe to use?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a tree cut down a few years ago and some of the wood milled in to slabs. It's now time for me to start using it and so far I've come across some very nice pieces. However, I've also found a piece that appears to have bugs living in it. They seem to be some kind of larva.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could carefully examine every piece I use, but that won't catch them all. In this case, these were uncovered after a few passes through the planer. While the end plan for this particular piece involves being covered in a layer of epoxy, that won't be the plan for every piece in the pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PQ6IN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PQ6IN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Closeup of bugs found&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1565" LastActivityDate="2022-09-03T22:02:00.210" Title="What are these bugs in my wood?" Tags="|wood-drying|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13340" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13342" CreationDate="2021-12-05T15:54:47.417" Score="3" ViewCount="146" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m looking to improve my sharpening technique when sharpening my hand plane blades and chisels. I use a Veritas honing jig and diamond stones and can get a nice edge that cleanly shaved the hairs on my arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently when sharpening I apply pressure on both the push and pull stroke and I’ve been wondering if this is the best approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When sharpening a blade when should I apply pressure to the blade (pull stroke, push, or both)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6011" LastActivityDate="2021-12-05T17:22:59.480" Title="Plane/chisel sharpening technique" Tags="|hand-tools|sharpening|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13340" CreationDate="2021-12-05T16:11:45.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The general rule I've been taught is even pressure unless you are cutting a cambered profile into the tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2021-12-05T16:11:45.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13340" CreationDate="2021-12-05T17:22:59.480" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When sharpening a blade when should I apply pressure to the blade (pull stroke, push, or both)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is one of those things where if you ask 10 woodworkers you might get 11 answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you'll discover the more deeply you delve into sharpening (rabbit hole warning!) some of the supposed reasons for doing X and Y are merely Old Wisdom handed down unthinkingly from one generation to another, as a lot of modern mythbusting has shown conclusively — certain practices and proscriptive admonitions are just lore, they don't have any sound reasons behind them other than &amp;quot;it's the way my teacher/grandpappy always did it&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; however a sound reason to only hone on the pull stroke&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;em&gt;with certain sharpening media&lt;/em&gt;, but diamond plates aren't one of those&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently when sharpening I apply pressure on both the push and pull stroke and I’ve been wondering if this is the best approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diamond plates are perfectly happy to cut equally on both the push and pull stroke, so just continue to do what you're doing if you're getting uniformly good results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember in sharpening, as in a few other areas, results are what matter; how you got there is of lesser or no importance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; So you don't press downwards when pushing forwards, rock the tool back very slightly or lift off completely (as you do when stropping).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; This applies to softer sharpening stones, both natural and synthetic, abrasive sheet material of some kinds and strops, where the tool has a tendency to or can be guaranteed to dig in on the push stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-12-05T17:22:59.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13338" CreationDate="2021-12-06T03:23:40.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to guarantee you will kill them all is to have the boards kiln dried.  Safe is relative, they are very unlikely to be dangerous to people. I also don't think they are much of a real problem for homes or other wood based things.  Many of these larva are fairly species specific.  Also outside of termites, I've not heard of to many bugs eating up houses or furniture at least none that wasn't already water damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, they will continue to eat your lumber until they die or pupate and fly away, so kiln drying is the way to go (even a solar kiln).  Many wood borers die just from the lumber drying naturally, it doesn't have enough moisture for them to survive.  So these are a little hardier.  The best bet for identifying them though would be to talk to local foresters, National Forest Service, DNR or some other similar place.  If they are actual pests that need watching they'd like to know, or they just might be a normal 'tree disposer' that is 'relatively' harmless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've milled a lot of wood, every now and then I've found them with worms eating them.  Never had any long term issues with an 'infestation'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Emerald Ash Borer actually needs living trees to eat.  They live under the bark and will bore a little ways into the sap wood.  Peeling the bark off is the 'sure-fire' way not to transport the EAB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2021-12-06T03:23:40.243" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13344" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13359" CreationDate="2021-12-07T12:20:29.273" Score="2" ViewCount="253" Body="&lt;p&gt;I stumbled across a table &lt;a href=&quot;https://jp.mercari.com/item/m12581701379&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; which has a rare view of the underside of the table. Similar designs can be found by searching for: &amp;quot;組子テーブル&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some photos:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FbTSb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FbTSb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5ZFnd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5ZFnd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zu7I4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zu7I4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YJj2Y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YJj2Y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The table seems to have effectively no apron, and sliding dovetail or cleat construction seems unlikely. From my inspection I could find no screws or nails or buttons of any kind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What ways could this type of tabletop be attached to a subframe like this? I have looked at as many Japanese joinery/furniture making resources as I can and none cover anything like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11376" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-12-08T00:29:03.387" LastActivityDate="2021-12-16T19:17:31.723" Title="How might a tabletop be joined to this kind of frame?" Tags="|joinery|furniture|tabletop|table-making|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13344" CreationDate="2021-12-07T17:15:35.610" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A large round tenon at the 4 corners and small dowels on the top rails on the sides would be sufficient to hold the tabletop tight against the supports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Added information:&#xA;People were wondering why I stated a round tenon verse a more acceptable square tenon.  After creating the shallow round mortise at each of the 4 corners of the tabletop, the legs will have matching round tenons. The round tenon allows the legs to be slightly rotated to align the squareness of the leg with the tabletop edge.  Both round and square tenon can be used to produce perfectly aligned edges, but the round mortise/tenon provides one additional aid to align the edges/surfaces without having to make fine adjustments to the tenon or mortise and leaving a gap between the two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8556" LastEditorUserId="8556" LastEditDate="2021-12-16T19:17:31.723" LastActivityDate="2021-12-16T19:17:31.723" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13338" CreationDate="2021-12-07T19:02:41.853" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd imagine that canned air (commonly used for blowing the dust out of electronics) would do the trick for spot treating the wood with a freeze treatment. When held upside down, the air comes out cold enough to cause frostbite in seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Canned air:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/36JXf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/36JXfm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Can of air&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;sup&gt;First image found in a web search for &amp;quot;canned air&amp;quot;. Courtesy of Amazon.com. Click to embiggen&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spend an hour or so in the shop or in the backyard sunshine, enjoying your beverage of choice. Keep the board in front of you and the can of air close by (do not confuse the canned air for your beverage - author &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; responsible for frostbitten tongues).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every time you see one of the little buggers sticking his head out, grab the can, turn it upside down, point the straw at him and give him a spray. Even for northern bugs that hibernate over the winter, this treatment should freeze him right to death. Shake the board until his little, frozen corpse falls to the ground. If you're outside, let him be recycled into fertilizer. If you're inside, clean up according to your local shop cleanliness standards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, be more aggressive and simply spray into each and every tunnel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll have to keep an eye on the wood for a while to ensure you got them all, whether you go for the slow, relaxing approach or the quick aggressive one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2021-12-07T19:02:41.853" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13347" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-07T19:58:09.067" Score="1" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to build three drawers and a cupboard here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yzTQm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yzTQm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can just see the dishwasher to the right, so the wide drawer is for plates and the narrower drawers for cutlery and such like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The back and side walls are of plastered brick, while the counter above is concrete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The photo is not terribly clear but there is a rather ugly PVC P-trap sticking out of the middle of the sink, with the effect that there is only around 15&amp;quot; clear from the ground to the bottom of the p-trap. Since both the sink waste and p-trap are very generic models, I am sure I could find an extra inch or two of height without too much difficulty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, the main question is what ways can I build this structurally?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I need a piece of plywood to form the bottom of the cabinet, and then the left side of the cabinet would be another piece joined to that one. However, because of limited space, I'd like to join the plywood bottom to the concrete wall. I'm not sure how best to do this (e.g., with an L-shaped metal bracket)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wall at the back being brick/plaster is obviously very solid, so I'm not sure if I need to use a full plywood back or if it's sufficient just to use a top and bottom rail at the back and fix that to the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, I need to support the left side of the two smaller drawers. I suppose a full length rail would be better structurally, but I'm not sure if that's necessary or if I could  just join that panel to the back brick wall using two half-width rails, and then join it to the side wall with two more rails which I anchor to the concrete using brackets or whatever as before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I thinking about this wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11367" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-12-08T00:17:40.707" LastActivityDate="2021-12-08T00:17:40.707" Title="What structures can I use for a custom plywood drawer cabinet underneath a concrete table backing onto a brick wall" Tags="|cabinetry|drawer-construction|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13347" CreationDate="2021-12-07T21:36:00.493" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd just build a small, free standing cabinet that fits into the space.  At some point you will need access to the stuff in back, and it will be a lot easier for future you if it is just something you can remove in 1 piece.  You might want to consider putting some casters on the bottom so it can be wheeled in and out like a dishwasher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cut a sheet of plywood that fits the opening you want to cover, then work backwards from there with the sides and drawers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2021-12-07T21:36:00.493" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13349" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13350" CreationDate="2021-12-08T16:43:48.343" Score="2" ViewCount="1763" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to be making a box to store full milk bottles outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was going to make a frame using miter joints, as I have a miter saw. However, I didn't think the joint would be strong enough, so I planned to use dowels to strengthen them. But as I will be hiding the joints, is there any reason why I shouldn't use doweled butt joints instead as they are a touch easier to make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Miter joints are stronger than butt joints apparently due to larger surface area for the glue, though some claim that the end grain causes the glue to be less effective. But if I'm using dowels, is there any benefit (other than aesthetic) to a doweled miter joint over doweled a butt joint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11381" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2021-12-09T17:18:24.683" LastActivityDate="2021-12-09T17:18:24.683" Title="Doweled miter joint vs doweled butt joint" Tags="|joinery|miter-joint|butt-joint|joints|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13349" CreationDate="2021-12-08T17:04:19.217" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, there really isn't much difference in strength in either case.  Aesthetics are the big decision.  Which, leaves the simplest is to just use screws (or nails) for the butt joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also go fancier, with the mitered joints you can then do cuts through the corners and glue in 'triangles' of a different wood which can be used as accents and still help strengthen the corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;like this &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZdTjl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZdTjl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;corner strengthening&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or less lining up than dowels is a spline like this&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T1Qq6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T1Qq6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2021-12-08T17:04:19.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13351" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-08T22:36:26.443" Score="1" ViewCount="7441" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently finished building my stairs with pine wood. I was expecting to stain them to give it a bit darker look, but I didn't like the end result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I should have picked another wood to start with, but I pine was widely available and I always assumed that staining it darker would do the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically I would like to remove the yellowish look as much as possible so that it matches my floor better (left side)&#xA;How can I achieve this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vbwbu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vbwbu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1469" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2021-12-09T13:21:49.490" LastActivityDate="2023-12-07T22:55:37.867" Title="How to remove the &quot;yellow&quot; look from pine?" Tags="|finishing|staining|pine|coloring|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13352" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-08T22:44:27.403" Score="0" ViewCount="1996" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have finished my pine stairs recently. I am not that happy with the end result as the wood colour doesn't match my floor (long story).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am seeking solutions and friend suggested applying a an oak veneer (0.8mm). He is not exactly an expert, but if this worked it could actually be a good solution.&#xA;I am bit skeptical since stair are subject to a great wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I apply a veneer on stairs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1469" LastActivityDate="2021-12-09T17:53:40.703" Title="Can I apply a wood veneer on stairs?" Tags="|veneer|flooring|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13352" CreationDate="2021-12-09T01:10:16.110" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Veneers are very common on premade stair treads, but the question is could you apply a veneer on installed treads yourself and get similar results? It sounds like you have installed the treads and risers already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Veneers will wear like any wood, but the difference in factory treads is that they have applied the veneer with the right heat, humidity, and pressure necessary to get that perfect bond to the substrate. And then topped it off with a high-wear finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the veneers used in &lt;em&gt;good&lt;/em&gt; engineered treads tend to be much thicker than &amp;lt;1mm, and could be refinished if you were careful. However, there is an upper limit to the thickness of veneer a home-gamer can apply with the usual tools available to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engineered products also use a very hard and stable substrate, not plain old softwood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd have a heck of a time getting good results (look good, no seams or bubbles, good adherence to the substrate) with the treads and risers already installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, you could probably get away with it if the stairs weren't installed yet, and you were able to come up with a clamping or weighting solution to turn some cheap substrate lumber into veneered panels ready for turning into treads and risers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(As pointed out by others, how you would trim, protect, and hide the veneer edges is left as an exercise for the reader; it would not be easy, and would add significantly to the workload. Again, this is something that factories with the right tooling can do in a minute that would take a carpenter literally days and not get the same results.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd have to sweat these details, though, because an edge of lifting veneer or loose trim is the &lt;em&gt;perfect&lt;/em&gt; way to trip people on stairs, and stairs are already a top killer in the home. Things are better than the terrible &amp;quot;servant&amp;quot; stairs the Victorians had in their houses (and much copied here in the colonies) but stairs are surprisingly tricky to &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; accidentally make into killing machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, yes. It'll wear through eventually and then the whole tread will probably need to be replaced. Remember that part of DIY carpentry is not giving yourself &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; much repair and maintenance work. Your future self is busy enough as it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; being said, you've given yourself a future of maintenance by using pine for the hard-wearing parts of stairs. They will wear fast, regardless of the finish you choose. So you will be refinishing them regularly, and they will never outlast their engineered counterparts. If I could go back in time and give you some advice, it would be to spend the money on hardwood for the treads, and use the pine for other parts that aren't directly stepped on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-12-09T17:53:40.703" LastActivityDate="2021-12-09T17:53:40.703" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2278" CreationDate="2021-12-09T04:53:32.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to their product info, Stonecoat Countertops epoxy is made of organic solids and is completely food safe when cured. In my experience, it is an excellent filler for wood, and I have even used it to glue up cutting boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this is an old topic by now, but it still comes up in searches, so someone might find this useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11383" LastActivityDate="2021-12-09T04:53:32.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13351" CreationDate="2021-12-09T13:22:28.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;the Floor looks to me like outdoor in the elements aged look.  That generally takes time.  I'm sure there are ways to speed it up, but I don't know what those are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect the fasted and cheapest way is to use a gel stain or get a grey paint that is close and water it down.  Do more of a 'white wash' than paint, this will let the grain show through.  I suspect either will be a bit of trial and error, so keep your scraps around for testing it on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2021-12-09T17:25:03.340" LastActivityDate="2021-12-09T17:25:03.340" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13352" CreationDate="2021-12-09T13:30:25.087" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you think 'covering' the stairs is the best way to 'fix' the problem, I would go with a thicker laminate.  something like 1/8-1/4&amp;quot;  (3-6mm)  This would be thick enough to handle a lot of wear, and would be much easier to attach to the current stairs.  And still thin enough not to affect stair height much.  You could use glue and/or small finishing nails to secure them and you don't have to worry about bubbles, folds misalignment, tearing etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2021-12-09T13:30:25.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13351" CreationDate="2021-12-09T13:48:04.203" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/13355/5572&quot;&gt;other answer that discusses matching with stains&lt;/a&gt; is completely reasonable (and offers what is arguably the correct answer: stain or bleach to match), but I'd like to offer a reframing challenge: don't do anything at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Who says your &lt;em&gt;new&lt;/em&gt; stairs made with modern freshly resawn pine must match your floors made sometime in the past with completely different lumber? Wood is a &lt;em&gt;natural&lt;/em&gt; product, and we choose it partially because of the so-called flaws and differences between pieces (even from the same species).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, yes. You &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; try to stain or treat the wood to bring it closer to the floors. But, here's the rub: you will &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; be able to match perfectly. I'd suggest this is a place where you want to encourage contrast because having pieces that don't quite match is, to me, much worse than decent carpentry and finish that serves the overall purpose and design, but with some nice contrast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why we can have different species of wood for our tables, trim, floors, and stairs. Wood contrasts nicely with other wood. Lean into that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually these fresh stairs will darken and lose the yellow, and end up somewhat &lt;em&gt;but not quite the same&lt;/em&gt; as others sorts of pine in your house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Life's too short to spend days being a mad scientist trying to match colours like this. Unless you are undertaking a restoration process, my advice is enjoy your nice stairs and get back to that honey-do list. Because there are always more projects to complete. Your SO and your guests won't notice the colour of the stairs, other than to marvel how nice they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2021-12-09T13:48:04.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13344" CreationDate="2021-12-09T16:34:04.227" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you are accepting Answers about how this &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be done, I'll convert my Comments to offer another viable suggestion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off take note that the main field of the tabletop appears to be a plywood panel, which allows for the outer frame and the attachment of a solid leg assembly &lt;em&gt;without accommodation for wood movement&lt;/em&gt; as you probably should with any solid-wood top of these dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although there appear to be no fasteners used, they could be there but hidden by wooden plugs or even filler. However this design can be built using only simple joinery and glue without too much difficulty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thought on the construction was that the legs may simply be glued into mortises in the tabletop frame, or alternatively have stub tenons formed on their ends. I don't think there's a good reason to prefer one over the other for a table of this kind, which must be treated with care and respect — this would not be a suitable choice for the busy living room of a family with boisterous kids!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glueing the legs directly into shallow mortises might seem weak, and it would be weaker than we'd normally expect to see (although standards for that vary wildly with furniture type and level&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;), but joined to the gallery elements I could see this easily being strong enough for service in the type of home that would have a piece like this, especially as I imagine the 'rails' are mortised into all legs so the understructure can work together as a single unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, glueing the top rail of all four gallery elements is possible, and would add even more strength&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; What we might call 'art furniture' is sometimes built with looks first and structural integrity or outright strength second (or third or fourth!). Note that it's still common to see handmade furniture finished in shellac and wax, or just oiled, when factory stuff has nearly always had a lacquer or varnish finish for nearly 100 years now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Remembering that glued long-grain surfaces like this are stronger than the wood itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-12-09T16:34:04.227" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7664" CreationDate="2021-12-09T18:18:08.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.iucn.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;International Union for Conservation of Nature&lt;/a&gt; (IUCN) itself is greatly at fault. Plug in &amp;quot;Purple Heart&amp;quot; (or similar search terms) and you get no answer at all! It looks like you must use the full binomial botanical name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The US Lacey Act requires all woods to be fully and correctly named and identified as to origin. This, at least, would apply to woodworkers in the US.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Peltogyne paniculata&lt;/em&gt; is the name of Purple Heart used by some, perhaps most, woodworkers. Currently, IUCN does not even list that species. There are a half dozen &lt;em&gt;Peltogyne&lt;/em&gt; species &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.iucnredlist.org/search?taxonomies=111086&amp;amp;searchType=species&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;listed&lt;/a&gt;, with several EN (endangered) and one VU (vulnerable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Woodworkers need to do everything they can to prevent mindless or intentional plundering of endangered and threatened species -- and to comply with the Lacey Act (where possible). Press IUCN for more classification, more and better listings, and to  include both the common and scientific names.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll mention that IUCN finally did what I called for in my public critique. Many or most Rosewoods (&lt;em&gt;Dalbergia&lt;/em&gt;) are now finally classified.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11385" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2021-12-11T14:56:06.770" LastActivityDate="2021-12-11T14:56:06.770" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13361" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-10T13:23:10.287" Score="0" ViewCount="965" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using some old pine for flooring and want to keep the rustic saw mark appearance on the face. There are 1” wide horizontal stains across the boards left by wood stickers from drying or stacking over the years. Is there any treatment or method to remove or reduce the discoloration circled below? Or do I just have to live with it as “part of the charm”?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jia52.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jia52.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another example sanded down to 220:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wfT9k.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wfT9k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11387" LastActivityDate="2021-12-10T17:28:05.490" Title="Method to remove wood sticker stain / discolored area from pine?" Tags="|finishing|staining|sanding|coloring|flooring|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13361" CreationDate="2021-12-10T16:25:06.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any treatment or method to remove or reduce the discoloration circled below? Or do I just have to live with it as “part of the charm”?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although those sticker marks were all caused in the same way (contact with stickers), they're not necessarily all caused by the same process. Contact with stickers protects the wood from light and perhaps air to some degree, protects from direct exposure to rain and snow but might also trap moisture, and protects against dirt but might also allow mold or mildew to grow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The marks are the sum of all of those differences, so without planing the boards down to just remove the surface, you probably won't be able to remove them entirely. Sanding might help to blend the marks by removing some of the surface while leaving some of the texture you want. Cleaning the boards will help to even out the marks by removing some of the dirt and making the boards more uniform. You could try pressure washing the boards, and I expect that'll go a long way toward removing the marks, but it might also remove the aging and coloration that you might want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2021-12-10T16:25:06.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13351" CreationDate="2021-12-10T17:04:08.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to experiment with a sample wood and try to bleach it with regular bleach solution. Optionally, you can wipe it down with tannin solution from a boiled black tea or any other colored tea after the bleach. See if you will like the final output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11374" LastActivityDate="2021-12-10T17:04:08.220" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13361" CreationDate="2021-12-10T17:28:05.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is &amp;quot;sticker stain&amp;quot;. Sticker stain is fairly common and often unavoidable, although the nature and severity of it varies naturally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any treatment or method to remove or reduce the discoloration circled below?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soon as you joint/plane or heavily sand the surface (which of course is the norm for wood rough from the mill whether it has been stored stickered or not) those will go, along with most or all of the rest of the 'rustic charm' the boards have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or do I just have to live with it as “part of the charm”?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the plan had been to use the wood as-is then yes, you may have to live with them. Especially as some are light areas, where the wood was actually protected by those stickers and not actually stained by the sticker itself, or water wicking underneath them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try pressure-washing the wood, or treating it with some kind of deck cleaner. There's no guarantee of success in either case, but I'd imagine you'd see a marked improvement with either approach. See previous Answer showing the effectiveness of pressure washing exterior wood, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3778/can-i-run-pressure-treated-deck-boards-through-thickness-planer/3787#3787&quot;&gt;Can I run pressure treated deck boards through thickness planer?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No help now but for possible future use, this is why some people use stickers with a triangular section. Obviously you still have a flat which could lead to exactly these marks, but at least one side of each board will have a very minimal contact area so little or no marking will be present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See more on air drying and storing wood in stacks in this previous Answer, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/6647/what-wood-species-should-i-use-for-making-stickers/6649#6649&quot;&gt;What wood species should I use for making stickers?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-12-10T17:28:05.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13365" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-12T01:49:27.703" Score="2" ViewCount="470" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bought an old Stanley 78 rebate plane and I try to bring it to life. I honed the blade and tried to do a rebate (rabbet) across the grain. Of course that required the spur (nicker?) to be engaged. However, I think the spur protrudes way too much (approximately 2.5mm / 1/10 inch) below the sole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should try to shorten the spur?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LVY8P.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LVY8P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3E8uR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3E8uR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BHpZ9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BHpZ9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Aki3G.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Aki3G.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastActivityDate="2022-03-10T16:03:10.300" Title="Stanley 78 rebate plane spur goes too deep" Tags="|technique|hand-tools|plane|hand-planing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13368" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13369" CreationDate="2021-12-13T09:03:11.710" Score="-2" ViewCount="2204" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a water-based stain thinning process, how much of water percentage is the maximum amount of water it becomes too much?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My goal is to try to stain with different thinness to try different shades of the same stain.  But my problem is knowing how far can I go in the thinning process?  And where there is a limiting factor after which the stain becomes &lt;em&gt;too thinned&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11065" LastActivityDate="2021-12-14T20:08:09.093" Title="How much water can be added to thin a water-based stain?" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2022-06-13T20:13:51.420" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13368" CreationDate="2021-12-13T14:28:24.697" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a staining job not a finishing job. You are also doing an experiment. Think of finding this answer to be another variable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure at some point, the stain will be mostly unnoticed, and this point will be different depending on the darkness of the original color you begin with (Oak vs Walnut). But ultimately the stain will continue to 'work' it just will get to the point it is worthless for any obvious change to the wood, you're just making it wet then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I would guess, depending on the original color, you can dilute between 100% (1:1) to 400% (4:1) water to stain and still have some color depending. Non-wood color stains I think can be more diluted, say green or blue, while an 'oak' stain might be fairly useless at %50 (1:2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What matters is what color you start with, and how much color you want to make a difference.  Since you are already experimenting, you'll find this limit. Just make small samples for your tests (and good notes!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2021-12-14T20:08:09.093" LastActivityDate="2021-12-14T20:08:09.093" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11420" CreationDate="2021-12-16T15:15:34.800" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The obvious positive answer with mitered joints is 'speed'.  You set the miter to the correct angle (generally 45 degrees for most corners, and cut.  And in theory you put them both in the corner and you have a nice joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I say in theory, because I always have issues with my mitered joins being 'close' and thankfully mostly 'close enough'.  But many homes the walls are not straight nor corners a perfect 90 degrees etc.  This is where coping will shine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coping will take some more time, but the joint can always be perfect (with a little patience) because you are cutting it to fit for the actual site, not the 'ideal' site.  in a corner you have 3 flat(ish) surfaces intersecting ideally at 90 degrees,  but surprisingly often there are anomalies.  Coping allows you to account for each individually, so you will have a beautiful joint that would take quite a bit of shifting of the walls or ceiling (or floor) to actually mess with the joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the older the house or shoddier the original construction, the more likely coping will make the finishing touches shine.  You can even cope the long sides of the trim when you have undulating floors or ceilings, to get a tighter fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2021-12-16T15:15:34.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13373" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2021-12-17T14:19:53.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kerf refers to the the width of material removed from the piece by the cutting blade.  Bandsaws generally have a very small Kerf (thin section removed from the material) 1/16&amp;quot; or less while table saws generally are 1/8&amp;quot;, and other saws can be larger yet.  A chain saw can be 1/4&amp;quot; or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more limited the material you are working with, the more you have to think about the kerf before you start cutting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2021-12-17T14:25:32.963" LastActivityDate="2021-12-17T14:25:32.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13374" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2021-12-17T14:19:53.940" Score="0" Body="about the width of the blade making the cut and it's affect on the material being cut." OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2021-12-17T14:19:53.940" LastActivityDate="2021-12-17T14:19:53.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13375" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-17T17:57:22.250" Score="1" ViewCount="1830" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to build some cabinets. Locally (Indonesia) there is 'cheap and nasty' 15mm plywood available, plus 15 &amp;amp; 18mm phenolic plywood. I tried ordering some 'slightly nicer' 18mm plywood, but it's apparently not going to come.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I am looking at using (black coloured) phenolic, which for some purposes I will leave as is, but for others I will want to stick high pressure laminate (HPL) on it so it's not all black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question is: normally here we would use neoprene glue for HPL to plywood and basic white PVA glue for plywood to plywood, but will they work for phenolic? (Obviously in some cases the phenolic will probably get sanded off or rabbeted or whatever, so in that instance it's not an issue, but in other cases it will be.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: there appears to be some confusion about what plywood I'm referring to. Here nobody actually knows what it is called as it is called 'Garuda form', where Garuda is the brand (or was?), and 'form' refers to concrete formwork (it's often spelled/pronounced 'foam' here, because people here don't speak English so such homonyms aren't surprising)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a fairly representative photo of a (12mm) version which looks kinda scratched, which is pretty much the state of the stuff I saw on sale as well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0fcdJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0fcdJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although nobody actually knows its formal name here, it is my understanding it that it is indeed generally referred to as  'phenolic plywood', and I'd guess that the quality of the wood itself isn't all that high although the phenolic that's on the outer faces means that it's &lt;strong&gt;much&lt;/strong&gt; more durable for formwork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11367" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-07-13T03:46:11.580" LastActivityDate="2022-07-13T03:46:11.580" Title="What glue can I use to glue phenolic plywood to phenolic plywood, and laminate to phenolic plywood?" Tags="|glue|plywood|laminating|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13375" CreationDate="2021-12-17T18:35:07.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a brief internet search to determine what &amp;quot;phenolic plywood&amp;quot; actually is, I turned up this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Phenolic plywood is somewhat of a misnomer as it should more realistically be called “phenolic faced plywood” or “phenolic covered plywood.” The veneer core plywood itself isn’t made of phenolic; it’s generally made of birch. What makes it “phenolic” is that both surface veneers are soaked in phenolic resin before attaching them to the plywood. This creates an extremely stable, smooth, durable, highly water resistant and attractive surface&lt;br&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://theplywood.com/phenolic&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://theplywood.com/phenolic&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That same site also says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Building things out of phenolic plywood is much like working with other types of plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then goes on to describe cutting, sanding (don't sand the face, just ease the edges as the plastic coating can leave a very sharp edge) and screwing (it's very good at holding screws).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the core of the plywood is standard, cabinet grade plywood, it would only stand to reason that standard plywood construction techniques apply. Regular PVC glue on the wood/wood joints, regular screws, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one difference I can see is if you're slipping the phenolic plywood into a dado. In this case, I can definitely see a benefit to sanding the coated outer layer off where it will go into the dado, then cutting the dado a fraction narrower to account for the loss of the surfaces. This would give you a wood-wood bond for the glue inside the dado. Even if you don't do this, you'd still have a wood-wood bond at the edge of the panel against the base of the dado and would probably still be good to go, especially so if you screwed through the dado into the shelf piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, since the phenolic resin impregnated outer layers are &lt;em&gt;already&lt;/em&gt; laminated with plastic, I'm not sure why you'd want to put an &lt;em&gt;additional&lt;/em&gt; layer of laminate on top. However, I believe that a &lt;em&gt;very light&lt;/em&gt; scuff sand of the surface to be laminated to give it some tooth, then standard contact cement would probably hold just fine, just as it would if you were laminating standard plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest, though, that if you're going to be laminating surfaces, you might consider making those surfaces out of a less expensive, lower grade plywood since you'll be covering any ugliness in the surface layer with the laminate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're laminating to change color, the site above noted that phenolic plywood is available in many colors beyond brown and black, but that these other colors may have to be special ordered. You may have no choice but to apply a laminate if you want some sort of a patterned surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2021-12-17T18:40:45.660" LastActivityDate="2021-12-17T18:40:45.660" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13375" CreationDate="2021-12-17T18:39:23.060" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the description of the &amp;quot;black-colored surface&amp;quot; I'd guess that the OP is not referring to the &amp;quot;furniture grade&amp;quot; stuff, but rather the &amp;quot;industrial&amp;quot; stuff that's commonly used for cement/concrete molds, the lining of agricultural enclosures, marine structures, and shipping containers, etc. Where durability and high water resistance is desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure of exactly how the formulation of the coating is any different between the two, but the &amp;quot;furniture grade&amp;quot; stuff is built with essentially &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.andersonplywood.com/euro-color-ply-phenolic/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Baltic birch plywood and the phenolic (essentially plastic fused to the wood fibers) coating that comes in a variety of pretty colors&lt;/a&gt;. (Undoubtedly one of them is black.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The factory impregnates the fiber surface of the &amp;quot;industrial&amp;quot; stuff with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.toledoplywood.com/product-category/categories/exterior-plywood/plyform-hdo/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a thermosetting resin and then bonds the resin fiber surface to both sides of the board with heat and pressure&lt;/a&gt; with inter-ply construction of C or C-plugged veneer. Face veneers are B-grade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as gluing to the phenolic surface, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodcraft.com/products/titebond-melamine-glue-16-oz&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TiteBond makes a glue for Melamine&lt;/a&gt; that might work on Phenolic surfaces as well. You may want to scuff the surface before trying to glue it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also understand that abrading the mating surface with sand paper and using moisture-activated polyurethane adhesive (e.g. &amp;quot;Gorilla Glue&amp;quot;) will work but PVA and epoxy will not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2021-12-17T23:15:47.653" LastActivityDate="2021-12-17T23:15:47.653" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13378" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13385" CreationDate="2021-12-17T19:29:18.800" Score="5" ViewCount="722" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking into using dowels for joints in a project of mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I've lead a sheltered life, I have pretty much only seen dowels in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-8mm-Wooden-Dowel-for-Reinforcing-Timber-Joints---Pack-of-25/p/164412&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;ribbed&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt; style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as I'm planning to use through dowels (so that I don't have to massively up my drilling accuracy game), I'm looking for longer dowels, and I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Pine-Dowel-Moulding---6mm-x-6mm-x-900mm/p/121220&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; smooth wooden rods, which Wickes call dowel mouldings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand the ribbed dowels: good surface area for glue, the ridges grip the hole when hammered in. All in all a good way to strengthen joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The smooth dowels on the other hand are longer, can be cut to length and so are easier to use for me. But they don't have the extra features which I presume give stronger joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is: will smooth dowel do as well for joinery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11381" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-12-19T09:44:25.097" LastActivityDate="2021-12-19T09:50:20.473" Title="Difference between commercial joinery dowels and smooth dowels" Tags="|dowel|joints|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13379" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13387" CreationDate="2021-12-17T19:50:31.887" Score="6" ViewCount="278" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got a makita RP2301FC plunge router. I'm a hobbyist and this is my first router. Today I tried using it for the first time when i noticed the straight guide isn't straight. When I push it against anything straight (a wood piece, a ruler, a straight edge) it has some room to wiggle and I can see between the wood and the guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the guide broken or is it expected/fixable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&#xA;Here's a picture of the guide: &lt;a href=&quot;https://ibb.co/hHMGJzc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://ibb.co/hHMGJzc&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p1vV4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p1vV4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the picture, I push the top part towards the piece of wood and the circled gap is what bothers me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11120" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2021-12-18T17:45:46.500" LastActivityDate="2021-12-19T19:39:52.093" Title="Makita router straight guide... not straight?" Tags="|power-tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13375" CreationDate="2021-12-17T23:23:53.167" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Contact adhesive is generally what you'd use in a home workshop environment to glue high-pressure laminate to &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; substrate, and it will work here too. The bond may not be super durable, but this is the adhesive of choice for many people today laminating over old Formica and melamine surfaces which are similarly resistant to conventional glues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Surface prep&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I'm unclear on whether sanding/scuffing the surface of the phenolic will actually help improve bond strength with this type of glue. This is a desirable, even necessary, step to maximise adhesion with many glues but contact adhesive works in such a different way to other glues that 'rule' may not apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would probably be advisable to do a few tests to see if the cleaned, but otherwise untouched, phenolic surface bonds better as-is or after giving it a thorough scratch pattern via sanding or use of an abrasive similar to Scotch-Brite. Abrade with more than one grit to check if coarse scratches or finer scratches provide the best bond, or if there's no difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IF you find sanding strengthens adhesion (and I wouldn't be surprised if it doesn't) my guess is there'll be no difference between about 80 and 150 grit, but beyond 220 you may begin to see a decline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-12-17T23:23:53.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13381" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13383" CreationDate="2021-12-17T23:32:29.880" Score="3" ViewCount="293" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this image online &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0NIRc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0NIRc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tattootribes.com/multimedia/110/Ilaria-BE-heart-tattoo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.tattootribes.com/multimedia/110/Ilaria-BE-heart-tattoo.jpg&lt;/a&gt;) that I have traced onto a piece of oak about 1 3/8&amp;quot; thick. I used a bandsaw to carve the outside which worked great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cutting out the inside pieces is not quite so easy though. It's definitely too thick for my scroll saw. I used a jigsaw to cut (or more like tear) out the inside of one of the holes but the curves are too sharp to really follow along so I basically just cut from the inside to the outside a line at a time until I've got the hole basically emptied. But this leaves really super jagged line as you can imagine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Dremel type tool, but it's a cheap off brand from Harbor freight. I tried using it with a sandpaper attachment but I quickly realized it would take a year to finish with that. The next thing that comes to mind is maybe securing some course sandpaper around a dowel that's small enough to fit in my drill. This is the next thing I'm going to try, but because I'm trying (hoping) to finish this off before Christmas as a gift and have limited time to work on it I'd like to ask if there are any better options I haven't thought of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8139" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2021-12-18T18:08:42.030" LastActivityDate="2021-12-18T18:08:42.030" Title="How to smooth out an inside cut?" Tags="|sanding|hardwood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13381" CreationDate="2021-12-18T00:15:12.737" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've noted that you have a scroll saw. There are &amp;quot;scroll saw sanding bits&amp;quot; available from various locations that may provide a more productive surface finishing time. The following image (composite created ignoring scale) is from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/p/Olson-Saw-5-in-L-x-1-4-in-W-x-180-Grit-Scroll-Sander-Pin-End-4-Pack-SC92218BL/305442185?mtc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-B-D25T-025_007_PWR_TOOL_ACC-Multi-NA-NA-SMART-NA-NA-PowerToolAccessories&amp;amp;cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-B-D25T-025_007_PWR_TOOL_ACC-Multi-NA-NA-SMART-NA-NA-PowerToolAccessories-71700000086134205-58700007341211177-92700065813629867&amp;amp;msclkid=95db7aaeec8a17e6103f1b13ca15c3cd&amp;amp;gclid=95db7aaeec8a17e6103f1b13ca15c3cd&amp;amp;gclsrc=3p.ds&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Home Depot&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DtmED.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DtmED.png&quot; alt=&quot;scroll saw sanding bits&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note the fastening type of the bit, ensuring to select the type appropriate to your saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2021-12-18T00:15:12.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13381" CreationDate="2021-12-18T00:16:51.997" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once you've sawn&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; out the bulk of the waste some careful chisel and gouge work may get you most of the way there, after which the ideal tools for completing this sort of shaping is files.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Needle files may be the obvious first thought but warding files (which are sort of middle-sized) may be a better choice here given the scale, IF you can find them&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. Either way final smoothing isn't going to be a quick job, no way around that with material this thick, but it won't take forever; I'd imagine you could get it done in 3-4 long evenings, as long as you have managed to cut close to your lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Workholding&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I think filing of this kind is most efficiently done horizontally, with the workpiece held upright &lt;em&gt;and repositioned frequently&lt;/em&gt;, so you're filing the bottom surface of a cutout as much as possible&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a bench-mounted vice of some kind (or can contrive a means to do something similar with clamps) to raise the work to a more comfortable working height, and must clamp the workpiece in a standard bench vice be sure to sit on a chair or low stool or your back will hate you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of what you come up with to hold the wood remember that filing is ideally a two-handed operation, despite files only having one handle. For best results your other hand should be able to comfortably reach around the workpiece to grip the tip of the file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you don't have suitable files yet&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The standard of most steel files has been in decline over the past few decades, and more recently that includes the files from big names that used to be synonymous with quality like Nicholson.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to no-brand or off-brand files made in China there's no telling what you might find; I have seen some truly awful files in recent years!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way the metal files you may be able to find could be a little crude, and surface quality may reflect this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So diamond files might be a good pick here. Inexpensive diamond files tend to be of a fairly uniformly decent quality from what I've seen both here in Europe and in the US. They can clog faster than you'd like filing wood but regular clearing with a stiff brush (firm toothbrushes are perfect for this) should clear them well with a non-resinous wood like oak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Using a coping saw, after drilling an access hole for the blade to be passed through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; And when it comes to name-brand files, IF you can stomach the cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Filing sideways and upwards is doable but awkward/feels unnatural, plus you can't as easily see what you're doing. So accuracy suffers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-12-18T00:16:51.997" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13378" CreationDate="2021-12-18T08:44:36.967" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dowels for joints I think are usually called fluted or grooved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fluted dowels are usually made of hardwood and the plain dowel you link to is made of pine. Not equal. For the same diameter hardwood is much stronger than softwood. Also easier to get a smooth result on hardwood end grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand the ribbed dowels: good surface area for glue, the ridges grip the hole when hammered in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All dowels in joinery should be a tight fit, where taps from a mallet or hammer must be used to fully insert them. So &lt;strong&gt;functional&lt;/strong&gt; surface area for glue is much larger for plain dowel unless you use gap-filling adhesive such as epoxy or Aerolite. Using PVA glue, with fluted dowels only the tops of the grooves touch the side of the hole to form a strong joint, a reason modern dowels often fail with white or yellow carpenter's glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grooves allow air and glue to come out from the hole so dowels don't bounce back when hammered in! Or force glue out through a minor defect in wood being joined :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to make your own, plain hardwood dowel is available in a range of species, one source in the UK is&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.toolsandtimber.co.uk/hardwood-timber-suppliers/wooden-dowels&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;G&amp;amp;S Specialist Timber&lt;/a&gt;. Prices seem reasonable for 1m lengths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-12-19T09:50:20.473" LastActivityDate="2021-12-19T09:50:20.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13379" CreationDate="2021-12-19T19:39:52.093" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes the fence should be completely straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It needs to be straight to work properly. A &lt;em&gt;slight&lt;/em&gt; hollow is just about acceptable (although undesirable) but if it's bowed toward the bit, even a little bit, it won't work right because the router can rock a little over the 'high' spot, altering the distance between the edge of the workpiece and the bit&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I removed the plastic pieces and the metal itself is uneven&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is definitely a replacement issue then IMO. One &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; fix this (since aluminium is easily filed or sanded, or you could shim the gap out&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;) but the bottom line is you shouldn't have to because the fence casting should have an absolutely straight edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; A discrepancy of 0.3mm (~1/64th&amp;quot;) is enough to cause issues, perhaps even a little less than this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Ironically slivers of aluminium drinking cans make good shim stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-12-19T19:39:52.093" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13388" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-21T10:41:59.460" Score="1" ViewCount="157" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to drill conical holes that are narrow at the deep and and wider at the top into cylindrical bars. The measurements need to be very precise. I was thinking of using a narrow drill for the entire depth of the hole and a wider drill for the first 1-2mm, then sticking the piece into a lathe and try to make the taper to the best of my abilities with a few hand tools (round file, grinding stick).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zpvs9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zpvs9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3934" LastActivityDate="2021-12-22T01:54:06.000" Title="Drilling conical holes into Wood (Lathe)" Tags="|drilling|lathe|holes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13389" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13425" CreationDate="2021-12-21T16:07:16.963" Score="-2" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Background :&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hi,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood is often used as a material for &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=trivet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;trivets&lt;/a&gt;, it has a low heat transfert coeficient and do not alter or suffer from temperatures as high as 100°C. (&amp;amp; probably often more for trivets)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of this properties, I am using it to make a saponification mould, which will recieve visquous liquids ranging from 50 to 80°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to apply a finish to the wood, namely &lt;a href=&quot;http://tung%20oil&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tung oil&lt;/a&gt; (also called abrasin oil), to stop it from absorbing too much of the liquid, and to prevent the solidified liquid to stick to it too much. (even though for this purpose, a supplementary release agent will probably be applied each time, on top of the permanent oil coating)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Question :&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to have a hint of an average value for &lt;strong&gt;maximum temperatures&lt;/strong&gt; an oxydation-based solidified &lt;strong&gt;oil on wood&lt;/strong&gt; can handle before changing properties / degrading ?&#xA;If no such value seems available,  do anyone know from experience if they become tacky or tend to turn back to a &amp;quot;liquid&amp;quot; form at temperatures around &lt;strong&gt;80-100°C&lt;/strong&gt; ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the insights !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11429" LastEditorUserId="11429" LastEditDate="2021-12-26T11:43:41.910" LastActivityDate="2022-01-04T05:31:50.957" Title="Finish for a soap mould?" Tags="|water-protection|oiling|tung-oil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13388" CreationDate="2021-12-22T01:54:06.000" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of using a narrow drill for the entire depth of the hole and a wider drill for the first 1-2mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It'd probably be best to do the whole operation on the lathe. That'll ensure that the initial holes and subsequent work are all centered on the same spot. If you have access to a metal lathe, use that; it'll let you set the taper angle you want and reproduce it. If you only have a wood lathe, consider making a jig that mounts to the tool rest and guides a tool along the desired angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2021-12-22T01:54:06.000" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13391" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13392" CreationDate="2021-12-22T08:47:36.203" Score="4" ViewCount="689" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making an end-grain cutting board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While gluing my (18) strips of wood together, I dry fit the pieces, glued them, and clamped them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I was finishing tightening the clamps, I noticed that the boards had all tilted slightly relative to each other, creating a slight saw-tooth pattern along their edges. I decided to unclamp, and attempt to straighten the pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was difficult to loosen the pieces at this point, and I gave up after separating just two pieces (one joint). I wiped some of glue off, which felt tacky at this point, and applied plenty of new glue, and reset and clamped everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It had been between 10 and 15 minutes between when I initially applied the glue, and when I reapplied and re-clamped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on cutting to re-square it and remove the tilt, but I'm worried that the joint I separated and re-glued won't form a strong bond. Is this something I need to be concerned with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was using Titebond III wood glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11433" LastEditorUserId="11433" LastEditDate="2021-12-22T09:00:42.160" LastActivityDate="2021-12-22T09:22:44.983" Title="Separated wood 15 minutes after starting glue up, reapplied glue, and re-clamped, will the joint fail?" Tags="|glue|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13391" CreationDate="2021-12-22T09:22:44.983" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe good, maybe weak. Impossible to say in theory, you must check to be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you make offcut test it, if wood can separate on glue line joint was weak. If wood breaks joint is strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastActivityDate="2021-12-22T09:22:44.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4878" CreationDate="2021-12-23T18:33:52.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;American Institute of Architects (AIA) sets the standard for commercial woodworking.  The standard requires that the finish be balanced whatever is done to one side must be done to the remaining 3.  This prevents the wood from moving in unequal ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially you set up a situation where the grain will behave differently on opposites sides of the wood as the ambient conditions will effect the wood differently on differently finished wood. Now the average dining room table may not see conditions extreme enough to cause a problem but that is standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastActivityDate="2021-12-23T18:33:52.453" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13395" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-23T20:06:32.453" Score="1" ViewCount="112" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have plastered brick walls, painted with stain-resistant paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The paint is reasonably durable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to climactic conditions (humidity very high, tropical heat, no air con), wood needs  extra attention paid to it. I have solid wood doors  throughout my house, with several layers of oil-based varnish, which are fine, but, say, dresser drawers made from untreated wood are musty-smelling, and essentially they smell of must  and mould.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for my kitchen wall cabinets, which are 1m tall, I could I think:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use nailer strips directly onto the wall with no back&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use nailer strips with a 6mm plywood back&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use nailer strips with a 4mm melamine one-sided sheet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use a full 15mm or 18mm solid back (there's not much difference in price between 15mm and 18mm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am applying white-coloured HPL (similar to Formica) to most of my plywood, e.g. doors, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A thick back is quite nice, but if I am to laminate both sides (for stability) then the cost becomes quite high, especially given that the cabinet is 1 metre tall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand I could just varnish either a thick plywood back, or even a thin one, and the cost of varnish is much less than laminate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or I could just take advantage of my quite strong and stable plastered, painted walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a particular best practice given that most of the other panels can be seen to be usefully two-sided (hence laminating both sides is a reasonable thing to do, financially), but the back has at most one visible side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11367" LastActivityDate="2021-12-26T00:18:15.000" Title="Back panel for wall cabinet" Tags="|finish-selection|cabinetry|varnish|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13395" CreationDate="2021-12-26T00:18:15.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After reading your description, the first question that comes to mind is whether the masonry walls generate any condensation at night.  If they are exterior walls there may be a chance that the temperature differential may cause condensation on the wall. Also, even though you do not have air conditioning now, if it is installed later, it will increase the potential for condensation somewhere in the exterior wall assembly. This will eventually deteriorate the exterior wall finish and allow powdered paint and brick residue to come loose.  This is a consideration that might contribute to a decision to put a back on the cabinets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I think a back panel is a good idea for aesthetics and sanitation. If you do put a back panel on them, make certain to finish both sides with the material since it is preferable to have both faces similarly exposed to avoid having the panels curl due to moisture differences. As for having the panels protected, unless they are exposed to liquid water, they should perform well regardless of the finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nailer strips are a good idea and will make mounting the cabinets much easier.  They will also separate a back panel from direct contact with the wall should condensation end up occurring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2021-12-26T00:18:15.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13398" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13400" CreationDate="2021-12-27T02:56:23.557" Score="2" ViewCount="622" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kd9TE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kd9TE.png&quot; alt=&quot;joint&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I want to try using this basic joint to make removable legs for a table, but what's it called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11451" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2021-12-27T09:32:27.537" LastActivityDate="2021-12-27T09:32:27.537" Title="What is the name of this basic removable joint?" Tags="|plywood|knockdown|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13398" CreationDate="2021-12-27T09:26:55.673" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The proportions are a little unusual but this is a form of &lt;em&gt;bridle joint&lt;/em&gt;. A bridle joint (also called an open mortise and tenon) is most commonly employed to join two boards at 90° at their ends, i.e. as a corner joint, but can be used anywhere along the span of one of the boards as here, and as in this example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1IldK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1IldK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Leg bridle joints&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Note the orientation of the joint relative to the wood thickness.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Safety&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Since these are intended to be legs for a table, even if cut accurately so the joint is a tight fit this would not have the greatest stability. And as you can expect the fit to loosen with use (due to compression and wear) the stability will get poorer over time with assembly and disassembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to put this table up and take it down regularly, and especially if it needs to take some weight, I think you'd be better off going with one of the (numerous) established designs for knock-down tables. Plywood is ideal for some of them, taking advantage of its dimensional stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Nomadic table&lt;/em&gt; would be another useful search term.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2021-12-27T09:26:55.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13401" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13412" CreationDate="2021-12-27T20:21:22.003" Score="2" ViewCount="298" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to achieve a similar effect to the handle on this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a95dx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a95dx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Replica thor hammer blueprint&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to do this entirely in wood. How would I go about cutting that on a wood lathe? Or any way for that matter...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5498" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-01-01T18:00:51.090" LastActivityDate="2022-01-01T19:20:07.997" Title="How to cut chevron detail on mjolnir handle" Tags="|router|turning|carving|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13401" CreationDate="2021-12-28T20:16:37.230" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the diagram you have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Metal ridge - in another section of the &amp;quot;blueprint&amp;quot; this is labeled as &amp;quot;unbreakable leather&amp;quot;. You could go with a ridge in the wood or just leather wrap.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Knurled pattern&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TqoNX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TqoNX.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;blueprints&amp;quot; indicate both a raised ridge and a leather wrap that looks like it spirals down the handle and between the raised ridge is knurling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go with a raised ridge it looks similar to turning a a thread with (as an example) one thread per 2 inch. Like this only with threads very spread out, less thread height and rounded rather than pointed:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/etuJm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/etuJm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you went with the ridges as individual rings rather than a spiral it would be easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if you go with the leather wrap it would be even easier to make, just wrap the leather over the knurl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of knurled wood:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dgEks.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dgEks.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Check youtube for videos on wood knurling&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6222" LastEditorUserId="6222" LastEditDate="2021-12-29T14:37:26.400" LastActivityDate="2021-12-29T14:37:26.400" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13403" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13404" CreationDate="2021-12-28T22:03:35.447" Score="3" ViewCount="4645" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a noob with a new table saw and confused about buying a dado set for it. It is a 10&amp;quot; saw with a 5/8&amp;quot; arbor -- a Laguna Fusion 2. But I am finding zero dado options on the market for this combination. All of the 10&amp;quot; dado sets have 1&amp;quot; bores, and all of the 5/8&amp;quot; bores are less than 10&amp;quot;. All of the choices are expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what do people do? Do I buy an 8&amp;quot; dado set for the right arbor size? Or do I get an arbor adapter to use with a 10&amp;quot; set? That would seem to make setting it up in the tight space more difficult, with something else to lose. Do such adapters even work with a dado set? Is there another option?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 8&amp;quot; sets are much less expensive than the 10&amp;quot; sets. Is the performance difference worth the price difference? Do I also need a dado insert plate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11466" LastEditorUserId="11466" LastEditDate="2021-12-28T22:14:23.017" LastActivityDate="2022-01-02T06:25:49.640" Title="What size dado set to use for 10&quot; table saw?" Tags="|dado|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13403" CreationDate="2021-12-28T22:50:09.580" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;For general advice on cutting dados the Related Q&amp;amp;A is where you should start. The core question can be directly answered using previous Q&amp;amp;A, but I've collected that here for easy access.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice would be to use smaller blades and spacers for the arbour you have to keep it simple and reduce the overall moving mass. It is generally &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/q/4916/5572&quot;&gt;fine to run smaller blades in table saws&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/4918/5572&quot;&gt;and some say&lt;/a&gt; this is even common when assembling dado stacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason 10-inch stacks require a 1-inch arbour is because the amount of mass such a stack requires is crazy large, and 5/8ths is probably &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/1339/5572&quot;&gt;very close to unsafe operating conditions&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means arbour adapters to fit larger 1-inch blades to the 5/8ths arbour would probably be a terrible idea. Mostly because it would probably work fine until something sudden and terrible happened involving freely spinning hunks of sharp carbide-tipped metal and table saw shrapnel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for an insert plate, it is always recommended to reduce the amount of free space around table saw cutters, but is probably not necessary in the ways most dados are cut. This is a safety item, so use your best judgment. If a larger offcut somehow made its way down the throat and jammed the blade, it is going for a heck of a ride in your general direction. There isn't a way of using dados that comes to mind that results in large offcuts, but (as they say) man makes plans and god laughs. You know your tool best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will have to remove most or all of the other critical safety items that came with your saw that manage kickback and so on, and your manual will recommend you immediately return those to service once done using dado sets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2022-01-01T18:51:00.090" LastActivityDate="2022-01-01T18:51:00.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13405" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-29T11:20:41.343" Score="0" ViewCount="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm preparing to build some doors for my workshop and I'm really struggling to get help with an issue I'm having. I'm going for a framed ledge and brace design and I've got my components, however, a couple of the 4x2 pieces which will make the frame are bowed. The worst one, at its most bent, is about 8mm off a flat surface. I've got a &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0dB9B.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;picture&lt;/a&gt; if it helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uujQW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uujQW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read about bending methods with mixed reviews and I think a major variable for success is how much bending is required, people mention minor and severe bowing but give no indication of what is severe. So I wanted to ask is 8mm a big bend? Also, is there a way to straighten this and have it stay straight given that it's a workshop door that will be exposed to the elements, or do I need to plane it flat? Thanks in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11468" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2022-01-05T15:36:47.940" LastActivityDate="2022-01-05T15:36:47.940" Title="Bowed wood for door build" Tags="|door|bowing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="10" ClosedDate="2021-12-29T17:06:08.037" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13406" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-30T12:55:36.003" Score="2" ViewCount="1168" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a calculator that can provide dimensions for a triangle that produce an angle that I specify?  There seems to be an abundance of calculators that tell you what angle you get from dimensions that you supply, but nothing to tell you what dimensions will produce an angle that you supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11472" LastActivityDate="2022-01-12T14:15:10.713" Title="Angle to Inches Calculator" Tags="|design|measurement|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13406" CreationDate="2021-12-30T12:55:36.003" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I created a calculator that searches triangles in 1/8&amp;quot; increments to get as close to the target angle as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I see it, the advantage of this approach over others is that you can get extremely close to the desired angle while your measurements remain &lt;strong&gt;&amp;quot;tape-measure-friendly&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;angle = asin(height / hypotenuse)&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a working demo &lt;a href=&quot;https://jsfiddle.net/aov03zkw/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P4OTy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P4OTy.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11472" LastEditorUserId="11472" LastEditDate="2022-01-12T12:08:26.037" LastActivityDate="2022-01-12T12:08:26.037" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13406" CreationDate="2021-12-30T22:50:32.120" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.calculator.net/triangle-calculator.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a site&lt;/a&gt; for solving triangles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The user interface doesn't show a right triangle by default (assuming that's what you're after), though the solved triangle does appear to be drawn to scale. Here is what you'll see to start:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0d5OOm.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0d5OOm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose you want a right triangle where, say, you know the bottom side is 96 inches and the angle of elevation is 24 degrees, then type those values into the relevant blanks (don't forget the 90 degree right angle) and click to &amp;quot;calculate&amp;quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BPOQ7m.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BPOQ7m.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will produce the triangle with the missing values filled in:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NOHntm.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NOHntm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5304" LastActivityDate="2021-12-30T22:50:32.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13406" CreationDate="2021-12-31T22:33:40.617" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;…nothing to tell you what dimensions will produce an angle that you supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Angles don’t determine the lengths of the sides. You could supply all three angles and that would constrain the sides to a certain ratio, but you’d still need to supply the length of one of the sides to determine the lengths of the other two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2021-12-31T22:33:40.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13403" CreationDate="2021-12-31T22:50:16.623" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what do people do? Do I buy an 8&amp;quot; dado set for the right arbor size? Or do I get an arbor adapter to use with a 10&amp;quot; set?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do the former. 10” saws use 6” or 8” dado sets. 10” dado sets are for larger saws. Avoid so-called “wobble” cutters — those won’t cut a flat bottom and will just frustrate you. 6” dado stacks are OK if you’re on a budget or have a saw that lacks power, but 8” dado stacks are generally better. Freud makes a good set that costs around $90; DeWalt makes a nice set in the $140 range. You can spend a lot more than that if you want to, but either of the options I mentioned will produce very good results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I also need a dado insert plate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. It should be easy to make your own, especially since the insert for the F2 is rectangular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2022-01-02T06:25:49.640" LastActivityDate="2022-01-02T06:25:49.640" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8217" CreationDate="2021-12-31T23:12:27.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an old question, but it still deserves an answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this type of connector be structurally as sound as a knockdown joint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the intended use, definitely. For connecting the frame of your Murphy bed, &lt;strong&gt;no&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What must I consider when using such a connector?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to think about the size and direction of the load. Bed rail connectors have a wedge that fits into a tapered slot, and the weight of the mattress etc. pushing the wedge into the taper is what makes the connection strong. Once you remove the weight, the bed is easily disassembled with a good whack on the bottom of the bed rail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the barrel nuts. You can absolutely build your own jig from a piece of scrap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2021-12-31T23:12:27.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13401" CreationDate="2022-01-01T19:20:07.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this might most easily be created by hand carving, as least for most of the careful shaping work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to create a good facsimile of the MCU mjolnir, close examination of the hero prop in one or more of the films, along with any good licensed collector pieces, would be advisable, rather than going by the 'blueprint' which has a host of failings&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although the following collector piece is a bit cheesy I think it represents the chevrons fairly accurately and it highlights that the 'blueprint' is highly flawed here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cJEFs.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cJEFs.png&quot; alt=&quot;licensed(?) collector mjolnir&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because this is not a spiral feature (a winding) and instead individual metal pieces with lateral symmetry&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; I don't believe it's possible to cut this detail simply using a router and rotating the handle, either under power or carefully by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that in the original these are not an incised detail, they are a &lt;em&gt;raised&lt;/em&gt; detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How exactly you choose to represent this in wood is of course up to you, but simply carving or routing a single groove per chevron seems to me to produce the least satisfying representation (while still being a perfectly reasonable way to add grip to an otherwise smooth shaft it must be said).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, at the least I would incise two small, shallow parallel grooves either side of each chevron. But the most faithful recreation is for these features to end up raised, which obviously entails removing all of the wood around them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a lot of work by hand, but I think some setup using a horizontally mounted router could be created to do the bulk of this removal, moving the handle by hand with the router fixed in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Safety note&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Even if a very small round-nosed or core-box bit is fitted to the router, and even with very shallow projection it's still &lt;strong&gt;extremely&lt;/strong&gt; dangerous to have an exposed router bit sticking out unguarded while it's under power, so the utmost caution must be exercised if you cannot fit some kind of guard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A guard of acrylic or polycarbonate would be easy to create and fit to such a routing jig and I highly advise doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without such a guard in place personally I would make the handle very much over-length (double?) so that I could manipulate the workpiece with my bare hands&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; while keeping my fingers safely inches away (10cm +) from the bit while nibbling away the excess material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final shaping would be done by hand, using as much rasping/filing/scraping and/or sanding as you feel necessary to create a smooth transition and surface finish you're happy with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Not the worst of which is the poor representation of the handle details you're asking about!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Not simple circumferential features, i.e. not ovals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Gloves and rotating power tools being generally considered an absolute no-no, because of the danger of the material being snagged and actually dragging you into the spinning workpiece or tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-01-01T19:20:07.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13414" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13417" CreationDate="2022-01-02T09:24:02.233" Score="3" ViewCount="463" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to cut 450 pieces of fillet battens from 50x50 (2&amp;quot;x2&amp;quot;) square rough-sawn stock.&#xA;The local  millwork wasn't able to provide them as they have in the past, so I need to cut them myself.  I have setup feather boards on a small table saw to do this, but because the stock is rough-sawn, it often binds on the feather boards or rip fence requiring a large amount of force to get it to feed.  The blade itself is sharp and is not the cause of the binding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody have some tips on what to try?  I have to finish this part of the job this week, but at my current production rate, it is going to take me 5 days to just cut the battens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the remote location (in rural New Zealand), ordering any special-purpose items will take 2 to 3 weeks to arrive.  I do have access to a local DIY places (Bunnings, etc) if I drive an hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the featherboard setup with a 50x50 piece of wood ready to feed through.  The blade is at 45 degrees.  I've angled the featherboards so that the teeth nearest the blade are the only ones contacting the wood to limit the friction when there are irregularities or slight changes in thickness which engage more of the featherboard teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MXviH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MXviH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Featherboard Setup on Table Saw&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the two cuts made to the 50x50 stock to create the fillet battens.  I held the upper piece on there just for the photo.  The bottom piece is in the process of being cut before having to stop due to a power cut.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nKtFo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nKtFo.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cuts made to 50x50 stock&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the final result.  Lengths are typically 2.4m (8 feet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:  Note that the upper 2 surfaces need to remain rough-sawn, the long side is the cut side and should be even, but otherwise texture isn't important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CBoW9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CBoW9.png&quot; alt=&quot;Final fillet batten (2 per 50x50 piece)&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder if I can find slippery tape to put on the rip fence to reduce the friction or maybe find some rollers to install to further reduce friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Edit: Tools available&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cut requires cutting depth of 75mm (3&amp;quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Table saw with 254mm (10&amp;quot;) blade&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Router&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Track saw (but cutting depth is limited to 55mm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Circular saw with 185mm (7.25&amp;quot;) blade - not enough cutting depth&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can purchase tools for this if I they are available and cost less than NZ$500.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Solution edit:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Answer from @Caleb was the most useful as even though the blade wasn't binding, it was causing enough friction to make it very difficult to feed the stock. And I ended up using the paste wax suggested by @FreeMan, between them and the other suggestions, I was able to get the job done.  Thanks to everyone who made suggestions!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11479" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-01-09T15:32:07.617" LastActivityDate="2022-01-09T15:32:07.617" Title="Efficiently rip a large number of 45-degree fillet battens" Tags="|rip-cut|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13414" CreationDate="2022-01-02T14:22:24.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are the final battens left rough sawn? Their rough finish is probably the reason they bind, both due to non-smooth texture (smaller contribution to binding) and due to small variations in thickness (larger contribution to binding).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Running the stock through a thickness planer will both leave a smooth surface and ensure accurate dimensions for the featherboard jig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the fence, it looks like you're using a wooden fence. Most commercial fences are either metal or smooth plastic, both much smoother than wood. If your fence is flat, applying any kind of smooth overlay should help reduce friction. Think things like packing tape in several layers or thin smooth plastic glued to the wood (perhaps from some binder folders).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How accurate do you need the cuts to be? Having the featherboards exert almost no pressure (or even no pressure at all) on the stock would help with binding but reduce their effectiveness in guiding the wood (but should still help with preventing kickback).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it's not clear from your setup, but if you are cutting the wood in one pass consider doing several passes. This will reduce the load on the blade and will need less force to push the stock (unless your issue is purely the wood binding in the featherboard jig. You could verify that by lowering the blade completely and trying to push a piece of wood through the jig).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would consider the tradeoffs between &amp;quot;good&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;good enough&amp;quot; for your particular job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2022-01-02T14:22:24.277" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13414" CreationDate="2022-01-02T22:01:38.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the featherboards are really the source of the problem, you might need to back off the pressure a bit, either by moving the featherboards you have or perhaps making some with longer, springier fingers. But I’d guess that making full depth cuts on what looks to be a job site saw is at least part of the problem. Some things that would help are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean the blade. It’s surprising how much difference that can make.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try a blade lubricant like Bostik BladeCote to reduce friction and prevent resin buildup.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make cuts in two (or more) passes. It’s worth trying just to see if it helps the binding issue, even if it’s not the solution you want.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Switch to a thin kerf blade so the saw doesn’t have to work so hard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a band saw instead. 14” band saws can often be found used, so might fit your budget.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a saw with a more powerful motor. (Probably not in the budget.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2022-01-03T01:55:14.337" LastActivityDate="2022-01-03T01:55:14.337" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13418" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-02T22:07:58.517" Score="2" ViewCount="1377" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building out a van conversion and want to mount a few dozen wooden slats to the walls and ceilings, similar to the picture below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to figure out if it's possible to do this with invisible mounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first thought was keyhole slots, but that's probably not a great option for a moving vehicle. Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jfhpg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jfhpg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11484" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-01-03T13:31:10.990" LastActivityDate="2022-01-04T20:52:36.123" Title="Options for invisibly mounting slats on ceiling &amp; walls" Tags="|design|panel|mounting|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13418" CreationDate="2022-01-03T04:25:29.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know of any DIY truly hidden fastener solutions for this application but there are many proprietary systems for doing so. Just search for &amp;quot;invisible mounting wood slats&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For decks and other larger dimensioned projects you can use a jig to come in at an angle on the inside edge, but I don't see that working out well for this application. You might be able to adapt one of the decking systems out there, but few of those are truly &amp;quot;hidden&amp;quot; as they often require special fasteners that are tucked in between the decking, or even special decking. This is clearly not what you are looking for with this kind of cleat style project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I think you are going to have to go with one of the fancy proprietary hidden fastener systems sold for these sorts of commercial applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though, the photo in your question is using staples or brads of some kind, which is a pretty clean install.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should mention that I have owned a converted van in my life, and relying on friction (such as a keyhole) or glue is a Bad Idea. Vans flex. A lot. The stuff in vans gets thrown around, even on ordinary roads you can expect to want to take vans. A lot. Those joints will have to allow for this. And you cannot expect gravity to always work in your favour. A keyhole, when done right, is sort of a good friction fit. But it can easily be overcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And you should consider how to make it field repairable. Some fancy expensive method that requires special fasteners or tools is a bad idea. You &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; be repairing this on the road, eventually. Being able to do that with only a handful of screws and a driver of some sort is worth much more than the interior being Instagram ready.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the application here is clearly a storage solution, you have to treat it like one. If you make something that looks like French cleats, then you have to build it like French cleats. Assume that this van will be subject to forces twice what you feel on an emergency stop. Will it release several kilos of wood and tackle to the back of your head if that happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You 100% need a positive mechanical fastener than can handle &lt;em&gt;at least&lt;/em&gt; a few Gs fully loaded. This is a place where form must follow function. Your constraint must be safety and durability, not cosmetics. And then see what you can design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A rule of thumb is to treat this build like you are building a boat. Things need to be lashed down, and the things you are lashing to have to be connected to something else with a lot of fasteners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2022-01-04T20:52:36.123" LastActivityDate="2022-01-04T20:52:36.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13406" CreationDate="2022-01-03T04:49:46.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A scientific calculator or program that gives the Tangent of an angle. Remember, tangent equals opposite length divided by adjacent length. Once you have that ratio you plug in one of the lengths and you have the other length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5916" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2022-01-12T14:15:10.713" LastActivityDate="2022-01-12T14:15:10.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13418" CreationDate="2022-01-03T13:58:25.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't need it to come apart, wood glue should be enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11488" LastActivityDate="2022-01-03T13:58:25.713" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13418" CreationDate="2022-01-03T19:53:45.563" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Option #1, brads or nails&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;A brad nailer or pin nailer may be a good solution here, with or without the help of a little adhesive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The smallest gauges of brads and pins (18-23 gauge) shot from nailers produce very small holes that are considered unobtrusive enough that many don't even bother to fill them. And with 23 gauge the holes are so tiny that they are very hard to locate even when you know they're there on woods that have visible grain lines — this sadly is not the case with the cypress you plan to use, but I think this is still an option worth exploring&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. A picture's worth a thousand words here so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qrN66.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qrN66.png&quot; alt=&quot;Brad v. pin nailer holes compared&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Source:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodsmith.com/article/23-gauge-pin-nailers-pin-nailer-features-from-common-to-unique/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shop Gadget: 23-Gauge Pin Nailers&lt;/a&gt; on Woodsmith.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to being relatively cheap (&lt;em&gt;verrry&lt;/em&gt; cheap if you can rent or borrow the nailer) this solution will also make installation really fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the hold from a 23-gauge pin nails is usually considered too weak to hold anything permanently by themselves shooting them in dovetail fashion, like this \ / instead of like this | | will increase the holding power greatly. You'd need to do some experiments — particularly incorporating vibration I think — to confirm they'd work for your application, whether they'd be enough on their own. If you have doubts a tiny dab of adhesive could be added to each pinning location&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;; between the two of them I can't imagine the hold would not be sufficient, and lasting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Option #2, &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; aim for invisible&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If you abandon the idea of invisible mounting entirely you could embrace a number of options where you make a &lt;em&gt;feature&lt;/em&gt; of how the slats are attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brass slot-head screws have long been considered attractive enough that they can be seen on fine furniture, and combined with brass cup washers (AKA countersunk washers) they make an even better-looking fastening solution:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aDiOF.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aDiOF.png&quot; alt=&quot;Brass cup washers image&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But not gonna lie, this would make installation &lt;em&gt;considerably&lt;/em&gt; slower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't need a completely flush installation normal brass cup washers, which raise the screw head very slightly above the surface, are also quite attractive and offer significantly easier installation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; The holes could be filled and made practically invisible &lt;em&gt;if&lt;/em&gt; you plan to finish the wood, however this would involve a fair amount of extra effort for perhaps minimal gain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Rather than normal wood glues PU construction adhesive or another product that works similarly may be perfect for this since the noticeable film between the slats and the nailing strips or other backing will help dampen vibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-01-03T19:53:45.563" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13423" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-03T20:40:00.763" Score="2" ViewCount="726" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a Trend CRT/MK3 router table and am trying to choose a router to go with it.&#xA;Feature wise the trend t11 looks good because of its ability to have the cut height adjusted through the table whilst inverted. I'm wondering if there are any other routers with this feature that are compatible with this table. The manual lists other compatible routers but the model numbers referenced seem hopelessly out of date and all matches I can find seem to be discontinued.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can see a Triton router that looks promising but can't see anything about mounting compatibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone who has one of these tables confirm any information?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11492" LastActivityDate="2022-01-03T20:40:00.763" Title="Trend router table compatibility" Tags="|router-table|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13418" CreationDate="2022-01-03T21:05:08.520" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can think of a few options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Screws installed from the back.&lt;/strong&gt; If you can build the slat panels outside the van and then install them, you can screw through the supports into the back of the slats. This would give you the secure, invisible connection you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nails or staples from the sides.&lt;/strong&gt; If you're lining the walls of an entire van with slats, you'll want fasteners that go in fast and work well. I can't think of a better tool for that than a nail gun or a staple gun. If you fire the fasteners at an angle through the sides of the slats and into the supports, they should be pretty well hidden. A dab of glue at each joint could also help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Glue or construction adhesive.&lt;/strong&gt; (Credit to aebabis for suggesting this first.) Adhesives can be very strong, and again you'll get that invisible connection. Installation will be much slower than with a nail gun since you'll need to clamp each joint until the glue cures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Magnets.&lt;/strong&gt; Probably not ideal for the whole project, but if there are areas where you might need to remove a slat for access, magnets might be a solution. If you inset steel magnet cups with rare earth magnets on one side of the joint and inset steel washers on the other side, you can get a connection that won't come apart until you want it to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Keyholes.&lt;/strong&gt; You suggested it, and I think they could be a good idea. To make it work, you'll need the following: 1) A way to locate all the keyholes and the mating screws precisely, so that they'll all line up; 2) a gauge to set the height of all the screws the same way; 3) some sort of thin, compressible material (weatherstripping?) to go between slats and supports and stop rattling, because you'll never get all those connections tight; 4) a way to lock the slats in place once installed. On that last point, I imagine sliding the slats into place, and then installing a piece across the ends that stops them from sliding backward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-01-03T21:05:08.520" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13389" CreationDate="2022-01-04T05:31:50.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From images available online soap moulds are not finished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If&lt;/strong&gt; exposed to liquid mixture wood will not absorb more soap after first time so no need to seal for that reason, and exposure to water is not a problem for bare wood. Mould will last many years if dried between uses, same as wooden drying racks for plates or laundry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But from my researches lining wood moulds seems normal, so mould may remain dry!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://tweakandtinker.net/find-soap-mold-right-for-you/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Find a Soap Mold That’s Right for You&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to make melt &amp;amp; pour soap in a wood soap mold, I would definitely use a silicone liner. Melt &amp;amp; pour soap is too thin when hot and will seep through the seems of the freezer paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastActivityDate="2022-01-04T05:31:50.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13414" CreationDate="2022-01-04T12:46:20.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good coating of paste wax, something that does &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; contain silicon (i.e. &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; car polish), should do wonders for getting your wood to slide along both the table top and against the fence. You could probably apply some polish to the edges of the feather boards, too, if you really needed to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will have the added benefit of helping to prevent rust from forming on your table and makes it look oh so pretty!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2022-01-04T12:46:20.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13429" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-04T19:02:07.197" Score="3" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are some valid considerations to help decide whether drawbore holes should be blind? (or go through the back)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm building a roubo-style bench with thick douglas fir legs (4&amp;quot;x6&amp;quot;) and stretchers (2&amp;quot;x6&amp;quot;). The stretchers are joined to the leg with mortise and tenon. In the instructions, the tenons are preferably drawbored tight against the legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it is not specified whether the drawbore peg should go through the stretcher and leg completely (i.e. so the peg pokes out at the back of the leg), or whether to make the drawbore hole stop shy of the backside of the leg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have limited drawboring experience, but I have some concerns (which may or may not be considered valid by an experienced woodworker):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Longer pegs break more easily.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In other projects with softwood, I've also had chip breakage on the exit side around the peg hole.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I was planning on using 3/8&amp;quot; dry dowel and a 23/64&amp;quot; hole (i.e. hole is 1/64&amp;quot; smaller), and make the holes 1&amp;quot; away from the edge of the joint. Maybe dowel diameter doesn't change much of anything, others seem to settle on approx 1/2&amp;quot; peg for that bench.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZbqjMm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZbqjMm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;drawbore location&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2022-01-06T03:06:12.707" LastActivityDate="2022-01-06T03:06:12.707" Title="Should thick (softwood) joint be drawbored through and through?" Tags="|mortise-and-tenon|drawbore|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13430" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-05T02:03:55.590" Score="4" ViewCount="224" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a chess board -- I decided to use jatoba and maple for the board itself, (and am using wenge and maple for the trim).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After milling the jatoba, the exposed surfaces of the jatoba are no longer oxidized, which is a bit of a pity, as I specifically like the oxidized coloring. I'm wondering a few things at this point about the best way to finish these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming if I use a polyurethane finish, it will seal the wood, and prevent oxidization in the future.   If this is the case, should I wait a month before sealing it?   Will the wood still oxidize if I put an oil finish on it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11497" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-01-05T14:41:34.047" LastActivityDate="2022-01-10T10:10:13.597" Title="Finishing jatoba and maple chess board" Tags="|finishing|staining|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13429" CreationDate="2022-01-05T06:25:46.897" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It does not matter. Through hole or stopped hole, hold of pin is the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/drawboring-resurrected/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Drawboring Resurrected&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://popularwoodworking.com/wp-content/uploads/Drawboring.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Drawboring&#xA;Demystified&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reason not to bore through is if you do not want to see pins on both sides of leg, does not seem important on workbench. &lt;strong&gt;In theory&lt;/strong&gt; drawbore pins through leg can be knocked out later if needed, but best of luck if you try!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other projects with softwood, I've also had chip breakage on the exit side around the peg hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does not matter. Workbench, not furniture!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reminder: drawboring is option, not requirement. &lt;strong&gt;Many&lt;/strong&gt; workbenches do not have drawbores, all joints still tight after 70+ years. How old are you? :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good reason to use them today is if clamps long enough are not available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastActivityDate="2022-01-05T06:25:46.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13433" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-05T10:11:08.980" Score="0" ViewCount="2914" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a dining table out of of cracked reclaimed wood. I’ve mistakenly filled in the cracks with epoxy &lt;em&gt;first&lt;/em&gt; and am now looking to stain the wood. Obviously, a normal stain won’t adhere to the epoxy. Would a gel stain work (since it doesn’t have to permeate the wood, but rather sits on top of the surface)? Or if a gel stain won’t work, is it possible to fix this in some other way? Do I have to sand through the epoxy to re-expose the wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11499" LastActivityDate="2022-01-05T13:39:42.607" Title="Staining over epoxy" Tags="|finishing|staining|epoxy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2022-01-05T16:44:32.687" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13433" CreationDate="2022-01-05T13:39:42.607" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well you are right, epoxy won't take a stain, and a gel stain does not need to be 'absorbed' so has a chance. Paint is even easier and more consistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering more what look you are going for here.  You talk of filing in cracks in the wood with epoxy but not being able to stain the wood.  I'm trying to envision what the current project looks like now if you have so much epoxy that you need to sand it down to apply stain?  I would think you would already sand it to make the top smooth and level.  Where you putting enough on to make an epoxy top?  in that case the epoxy would be the 'finish' and any wood prep should have been done before that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you need a stain?  I myself tend to like unstained wood the vast majority of the time and the only reason to stain anything is to change color or make it more even across the whole piece.  Seems to me that if you made something with cracks big enough to need epoxy to fill them in, it sounds like a more rough piece and stain seems pointless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now if what you really want is a finish and think you need to stain it for a finish, that is a completely different issue.  While some finishes have stains and some stains have some finish (ie gel stains) they are different processes with different end goals and different answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2022-01-05T13:39:42.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13435" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-05T15:00:02.693" Score="6" ViewCount="234" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a chess board from jatoba and maple.  I made a mistake in my planning stage, and mis-interpretted the max width of my planer.  As such, the board top is now just a bit to wide to go through, so it looks like I'm going to have to hand sand it flat.   The worst ridges between the woods are about 1/10 mm, so not overly bad, but also not non-existent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue is that the two types of wood, jatoba and maple, have different hardnesses (1450 vs 2900), so I'm wondering if I should be worried about using an ROS on this, in respects to uneven removal.   My other option might be to glue a rougher grit paper to a large flat board and use this combined with a lot of elbow grease to smooth it out.   I'm unfortunately not overly experienced in working with these sorts of hardwoods, so any advice would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11497" LastActivityDate="2022-01-05T15:59:40.967" Title="Sanding woods of different hardnesses perfectly flat" Tags="|finishing|sanding|hardwood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13430" CreationDate="2022-01-05T15:23:54.580" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the exposed surfaces of the jatoba are no longer oxidized&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I specifically like the oxidized coloring.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;prevent oxidization in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood actually darkens primarily due to exposure to light, not air&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. Although oxygen may be involved it's misleading to call the colour change oxidation, and it would be more accurate to refer to the colour of older wood as &lt;em&gt;aged&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;patinated&lt;/em&gt; &lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the effect is mostly about light the gist of your last query is easy to answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the wood still oxidize if I put an oil finish on it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, wood will still darken over time underneath an oil finish, as it does under all finishes (ignoring finishes containing UV absorbers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also worth noting that oil finishes directly darken the wood most of all finish options, so you'll see a marked change in the jatoba right from the get go. But note that oil finishes also bring out the yellowness of maple, so if you were hoping to keep it as pale as possible there's a trade-off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is the case, should I wait a month before sealing it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never worked with jatoba, but unless the sunlight where you are is very strong at this time of year, or the jatoba reacts unusually quickly (as cherry is reputed to) a month wouldn't be enough time to see a very noticeable change in the colouring&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;. But as noted the oil finish will take you a good way towards the colouring you were seeing prior to milling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; You can see this effect most starkly in the workshop on boards stored vertically where one face is towards a window. The window-facing side darkens and the opposite face (exposed to the exactly the same amount of air but much less light) doesn't change colour much or at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Hence the &amp;quot;patina of age&amp;quot; that is sometimes used to describe the tone of wood in vintage and antique furniture (something that restoration work may take pains not to disturb).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; You &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be able to hasten the natural darkening by directly exposing the board to strong light, e.g. by placing it right by a south-facing window, but note that this will also have its effect on the maple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-01-05T15:23:54.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="800" CreationDate="2022-01-05T15:40:04.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Glue is stronger than lignin in wood, but weaker than wood fibers.  If you glue along the grain, the wood will fail before the glue due to the weakness of the lignin in wood, but gluing end grain, the glue will fail before the wood since the wood fibers are massively stronger than glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To increase strength even more, taper the glued ends so that there's always overlapping fibers, the longer the taper, the stronger the resulting piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like there's a few factors in determining if a glued joint will be stronger than some other joinery: is the wood stressed along or against the grain?  Are there multiple points of stress?  Is stress on the glue directly, or on a wood-glue-wood sandwich?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m7HxBa9WVis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m7HxBa9WVis&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11503" LastEditorUserId="11503" LastEditDate="2022-01-05T15:49:23.173" LastActivityDate="2022-01-05T15:49:23.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13435" CreationDate="2022-01-05T15:59:40.967" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My other option might be to glue a rougher grit paper to a large flat board and use this combined with a lot of elbow grease to smooth it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use the right abrasive and the right strategy this basic idea could work well for you, without it being tons of effort (as hand sanding usually is).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You must ensure the abrasive is taut, so it doesn't ruck up as you push back and forth, so it may be necessary to glue it to the substrate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, instead of making one or more large sanding boards you might want to make large sanding blocks instead. Easier to hold and manipulate sanding blocks than the whole board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't use cheap paper here, it's a false economy. It might be worth investing in some 3M Cubitron for this!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Start coarse&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;In general with something like this it's advisable to begin with a coarser grit than you're probably thinking, possibly much coarser. But a very good modern abrasive like Cubitron changes the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Start by sanding on the diagonals&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Wood is much easier to sand (and plane incidentally) across the grain rather than along it. Not sure if you've alternated the grain direction on your white and black squares as is often done, but if you have the ideal compromise is to sand at 45°.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Grit progression&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Suggested grit progression for the hand sanding is 60, 100, 150, 240 if using conventional abrasives. If you use Cubitron or something else high-tech you could probably get away with starting at 100.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bring out your ROS with finer papers to finish off&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You might consider going to 320 or a little above here, although that's generally finer than you need to sand wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alternatively, scrape after board has been made flat&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Good results can be had with a well-prepared card scraper, or with the sharp edge of a utility-knife blade or single-edged razor if you don't currently own any card scrapers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-01-05T15:59:40.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13442" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-08T03:09:34.823" Score="3" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lots of questions here about outdoor wood/finishes but most of them are for furniture or other high-end projects.  I'm looking to build planters like this one...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jvw9i.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jvw9i.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plans I purchased list MDF as the material but I can't imagine using that for anything outside, even for something on a covered porch.  I want to find a good balance between durability and material cost.  I don't expect it to last forever but if it falls apart after one season it isn't worth my time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect the readily available pine with a decent exterior finish might be my best bet but would like to hear your recommendations and reasoning behind them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks all!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1502" LastActivityDate="2022-01-08T09:22:57.293" Title="Cost-effective wood selection for outdoor craft project" Tags="|wood-selection|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13442" CreationDate="2022-01-08T09:22:57.293" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Exterior grade MDF is available here in Europe, but in US I don't know about cost or availability. It is very durable with finish applied, but cost is high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exterior grades of plywood should be available everywhere, and much cheaper. Recent question on exterior plywood here &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/13193/exterior-plywood-that-looks-relatively-nice&quot;&gt;Exterior Plywood that looks relatively nice&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of current high prices plywood probably cheaper than solid wood, except for construction lumber. Plywood is already all correct thickness and large dimensions, so much less work needed to build this so I think very sensible choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastActivityDate="2022-01-08T09:22:57.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13444" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13445" CreationDate="2022-01-09T10:57:18.383" Score="2" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this old chair, French I believe, for a restoration project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a bit rickety so I'd like to take it apart, clean up the dowels and glue surfaces and re-glue before upholstering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original wood is cracked so I was going to clamp and glue with modern waterproof wood glue, before reassembling with the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bm6JT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bm6JT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Open joint&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tBVIP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tBVIP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Carving&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SFIjZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SFIjZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Old French chair&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sTEBC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sTEBC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wire reinforcing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4451" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-01-09T15:35:26.273" LastActivityDate="2022-02-01T17:50:40.097" Title="What glue suits restoring this old (French?) chair?" Tags="|glue|restoration|joints|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13444" CreationDate="2022-01-09T15:23:32.260" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What glue suits restoring this old (French?) chair?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take your pick. In addition to there being some personal preference involved naturally, different jobs may require specific adhesives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although some people — mostly 'armchair theorists' and weekend warriors — insist that only animal-sourced glues should be used to repair antiques&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, the simple fact is that certain jobs call for other glues to be employed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Arguably the best example is the (not uncommon) situation where you need gap filling. Except in limited circumstances this can't be done strongly using protein glue (and neither PVA nor foaming polyurethane are appropriate either). The adhesive usually chosen for gap-filling repairs is epoxy, and it is widely used for this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not hard to envisage a situation where the repairs needed to an old chair lead to three adhesives being used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cracks along the grain that occurred due to the levering forces from use while the chair was wobbly from loose joints are glued using PVA or foaming polyurethane&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To re-glue the joints that are structurally sound but the glue has failed you could use hide glue to re-glue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One leg/frame joint broke while someone was in the chair, resulting in a bad break and there is now some missing wood, that is glued with epoxy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; The two main reasons given are 1) it's reversible, and 2) it's traditional. Neither of those points are wrong, but this looks at the issue much too shallowly — just to give one example, there was more than one kind of traditional adhesive, and multiple types and grades of animal-derived glue, some of which are better suited to specific applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Because either works excellently as a thin-film adhesive, producing invisible joins that are stronger than the wood around them if done well. Additionally these repairs are of course intended to be permanent, so by &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; using hide glue any future restoration where structural joints need to be separated and re-glued again, any use of heat/moisture/vinegar won't equally effect the crack repairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-01-09T15:23:32.260" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13448" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-10T09:41:02.977" Score="0" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to finish some pine wood with Danish oil and then try and build a coffee table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if there is any reason to build before finishing. I realise that Im probably going to finish some scrap pieces that are going to be left over from the build. There may be more work than what is strictly neccesary. Im ok with that. The idea is to practice my finishing technique anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the youtube videos do the build first so Im not sure if there is a reason for that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11524" LastActivityDate="2022-01-10T11:45:29.947" Title="Is there any reason why I should not finish before I build?" Tags="|finishing|oiling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2022-01-10T22:54:59.423" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13430" CreationDate="2022-01-10T10:10:13.597" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Polyurethane offers the best defense against the elements, but it comes at a price. Polyurethane is literaly clear cover of plastic over the wood. Some people say this gives it a cheap plastic feel and look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil naturally effects the color of the wood. Some woods it darkens but some bright woods it brings out the light tones. Whatever effect it may have on the tones it does so in a very pleasant and natural way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to oils there are also other considerations. Linseed oil is cheap and gives minimal protection but is a all natural finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also have Danish oil which is a couple of notches up the fiscal scale from Linseed oil but it is a mix of oil and poly. This means it gives a far better protection than other oils although probably not as much as a straight poly finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, there is shelac. This is again anothet notch more expensive. The finish traditionally used for French polish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the hardest finish. You are going to have to decide for yourself if it is worth the effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should do at least three runs. You add the first layer of the shelac varnish. Then you add a tiny amount of mineral oil. This oil you have to remove with after a couple of minutes with methylated spirits. You then let dry. Rinse and repeat 3 - 5 times. The effects are spectacular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11524" LastActivityDate="2022-01-10T10:10:13.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13312" CreationDate="2022-01-10T10:19:18.197" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most problems with bubbles in poly comes from aeration of the poly in the container. If you take care to agitate the poly as little as possible when moving it from the housing to whatever container is used during application then the risk of bubbles is greatly reduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is the polar opposite of certain oil finishes that need to be vigorously shaken before use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11524" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2022-01-10T19:14:42.497" LastActivityDate="2022-01-10T19:14:42.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13451" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13453" CreationDate="2022-01-10T10:24:10.000" Score="3" ViewCount="431" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in using Danish oil. One of the approaches I have seen is to apply the first coat, let it dry and then use 600 grit sandpaper that you wet with the Danish oil for the second and third coats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could you automate this by using a sanding machine or is adding volatile oil to a sanding machine a bad idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11524" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-01-10T12:38:23.407" LastActivityDate="2022-01-10T12:38:23.407" Title="Can you do a wet sand with a sanding machine?" Tags="|sanding|oiling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13448" CreationDate="2022-01-10T11:45:29.947" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do often prime and do one coat of paint on timber for house construction and then do a final coat after completion.  I do this since it's easier to prime and do the first coat before the timber is in place and for outdoor applications it keeps the timber from absorbing moisture and warping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For indoor furniture, the danish-oil treated portions will not glue well and it can attract dust.  There is also the likelihood that in building the furniture that you get some small scratches and these will need to be sanded out which will require refinishing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11479" LastActivityDate="2022-01-10T11:45:29.947" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13451" CreationDate="2022-01-10T12:37:03.640" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In theory yes, but it might come around and bite you later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The effect of exposure to mineral spirits on the pad in particular is unknown, and many plastics and resins (which foam pads are made from) are attacked by it, either softening and becoming sticky and/or becoming brittle after the solvent has evaporated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; this sanding-in technique is not used by all people finishing with &amp;quot;Danish oil&amp;quot; and other similar finishes which are blends on oil and varnish that are then diluted (sometimes heavily — many or even most are more than 50% thinners!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mention this because it's easy to make your own versions of this sort of thing if you have the three starting ingredients — e.g. boiled linseed oil, polyurethane varnish and mineral spirits — at a very significant saving. Additional benefits include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you can tailor the mixture to your own liking, so instead of a single mix of the two finishes (1:1? who knows?!) you can use more oil or more varnish depending on how they work with the wood you're currently using;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you can vary the dilution of your preferred ratio(s) of oil to varnish to suit different drying conditions through the year;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and last but not least, &lt;em&gt;you have the BLO and the poly&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So instead of having only one mixture you can't alter other than by thinning it even more you can make as many versions as you like, along with the two original finishes which can be used separately (and it won't take long to find applications where you &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; want them separate).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-01-10T12:37:03.640" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4367" CreationDate="2022-01-10T13:22:38.637" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only reason vege and olive oils don't go rancid for people..is they regularly wash and re-oil these surfaces... If they stop then it will go nasty.  This is to say that you're micro-dosing bacteria and fungi when you use these organic oils as they're breeding on the surface, just not visually large enough colonies between abrasions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11526" LastActivityDate="2022-01-10T13:22:38.637" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13455" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-11T20:00:43.033" Score="2" ViewCount="308" Body="&lt;p&gt;First time here.&#xA;I've decided to make my own floating bed, I've watched a few videos, but one feature I'd like to include is storage, and for that, I've added a sort of a lid in the middle of the big frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've only done a table, so I'm a beginner, and I'd like to check with somebody more skilful if there's something conceptually wrong with my design. For example, I'm doubting if the small frame (the base) is big enough to avoid the bed from flipping if you stand/sit on the border.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll upload a bunch of images but let me know if you'd like to see the sketchup file (bear in mind that I'm also a beginner there)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The small frame is 100x140 and the big frame on to is 180x200&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are built mostly with 63x160 wood beams. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sleiderink.nl/vuren-geschaafd-63x160&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Like this&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q6y7V.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q6y7V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bed frame without the lid&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w03jw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w03jw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bed frame with the lid&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P7YiX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P7YiX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;small frame&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V72dh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V72dh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;big frame&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AHBUD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AHBUD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;From the bottom&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More dimensions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7zoeR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7zoeR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11530" LastEditorUserId="11530" LastEditDate="2022-01-12T08:28:44.680" LastActivityDate="2022-01-12T08:28:44.680" Title="Floating bed design review" Tags="|wood|furniture|design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13455" CreationDate="2022-01-12T07:03:21.567" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm doubting if the small frame (the base) is big enough to avoid the bed from flipping if you stand/sit on the border.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not stand on the border!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For adult sitting on edge this looks ok to me, weight of bed base + matress should be sufficient for bed to be stable. But without knowing person's weight it is guesswork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will have to build it and test to be sure. Sit on edge, if the bed does lift on other side there are easy fixes possible:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add weight to base - bags of sand, bricks, concrete blocks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;screw to floor! 2 screws maybe all you need.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastActivityDate="2022-01-12T07:03:21.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13459" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-12T20:59:51.353" Score="3" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have a drill press, so when drilling a long hole, I'll typically drill from both sides, as close as I can eyeball being orthogonal to the surface, and meet in the middle. This way, the series of aligned holes on the front are also aligned on the back side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'm making drawbores with multiple pegs per tenon, and wondering if it's a bad idea to do the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there's plenty of stock to drill through and support the peg, would it be okay to drill, say, 3/4 of the way on one side, and try to meet from the other side?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S8ls6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S8ls6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;frontback&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;each leg (4x6) has 4 drawbored pegs. 2 pegs per mortise. after seeing how terrible my drilling was, i decided to make the long edge peg not stick through — they would have intersected paths anyway. luckily it’s called the back side because it’s at the back&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;References:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe I'm obsessing over details, but that part always seems to be omitted from instructions (maybe for a good reason, I don't know). Most videos I've watched on the topic, they drill only from one side until the snail/brad point starts poking out, and then pop a clean rim for the remaining 1/16&amp;quot; from the back side. This is the sensible approach, of course, because it makes a straight path for the peg, and a clean exit hole but it does tend to create ugly alignments on the backside (in my experience).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/drawboring-resurrected/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/drawboring-resurrected/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://popularwoodworking.com/wp-content/uploads/Drawboring.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://popularwoodworking.com/wp-content/uploads/Drawboring.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.lostartpress.com/2021/10/05/about-drawboring/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://blog.lostartpress.com/2021/10/05/about-drawboring/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paul sellers drilling through at [00:01:32] &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/jgYoawkLmVk?t=92&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/jgYoawkLmVk?t=92&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will Myers boring into a breadboard end [00:24:19] &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/2_Tjd2j6uho?t=1459&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/2_Tjd2j6uho?t=1459&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2022-01-15T00:47:06.080" LastActivityDate="2022-01-17T16:44:42.460" Title="Aligning entry and exit side of drawbores" Tags="|hand-tools|drilling|mortise-and-tenon|drawbore|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13459" CreationDate="2022-01-13T00:08:13.980" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're having trouble eyeballing square or plumb as you drill when working solo (so you can't take advantage of a second pair of eyes), which is something I'm convinced &lt;em&gt;most&lt;/em&gt; people have trouble with, then simply jig it — make a drilling guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That way no matter whether you drill half the thickness each way, 3/4 one way and the rest the opposite way, or almost fully through and then complete that last little bit from the other side, you can be assured you're drilling square to the surface (although in that last case it shouldn't be required to use the jig to complete the hole).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now some very good drilling guides are made, but it's really easy to make a versatile and reliable perpendicular drilling guide in just a couple of minutes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zq7IQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zq7IQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of the jig you buy or make, with many bits being relatively short once fully seated in a chuck you'll run into the problem that the jig itself limits how deeply you can drill. So often you'll have to start the hole jigged and then remove it to complete the drilling, trusting to the start of the hole to guide the drilling the rest of the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-01-13T00:08:13.980" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13461" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-13T21:35:44.990" Score="2" ViewCount="145" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hello all thanks for reading my question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a novice(at best) at woodworking and I am currently undertaking the renovation of my stairs. I have successfully cut out the stringers in 6mm MDF oak veneer and glued it over the beat up old one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have solid oak pieces that cap over the top of the stringers which have a 6mm grove routed in them on one side to sit flush on the stringer mdf for a nice finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far so good however when it gets to the angle at the top and bottom of the wood I am not sure of the best way to measure, mark and cut the correct angles to have them come together as a mitre and a nice finish as possible as it will be in eye line all the time when using the stairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an electric mitre saw, however I tried a test cut but had to have the piece longways in the saw to get the angle? and seems very aggressive to cut the edge of the wood and I don't want to splinter the finish or the routed channel so I also have a mitre box and tenon saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem I'm having is marking the correct angles on the wood and I'm beginning to think the best way to cut it would be by hand and a guide but the mitre box does not allow me to do custom angles only standard 45degree. I also have an adjustable sliding bevel to measure angles but I can't find my protractor - is this required as the adjustable bevel has nothing on it to read angles.(??)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure it's so simple I'm just confusing myself and I've done a few test cuts that ended up totally backwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note although I have some of the tools I probably need I am in no way skilled or pretend to be so any tips on using the mitre saw and or box to accomplish this joint would be great as the wood is not cheap &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please see the image attached&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for reading this far&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E3aiV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E3aiV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;img1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/so7jr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/so7jr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;img2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7oBB1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7oBB1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;img3&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11543" LastActivityDate="2022-01-14T12:58:27.457" Title="What is the best way to cut this oak cladding for the best fitting angles?" Tags="|technique|mitre|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10750" CreationDate="2022-01-14T03:21:04.907" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This seems to be a common issue with the Kobalt router the OP purchased. When you press the course adjustment you compress a spring which releases the interlocking gears connecting the worm gear of the fine adjustment knob and the linear gear on the router. When you are not pressing the button the spring keeps the two locked. What happens is that the friction between the router and base (you can probably see wear marks on the machined router barrel), becomes too much and overcomes the spring, causing it to give and the router to drop a small amount.  As it drops the pressure is relieved and the spring reengages the two gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As suggested, you can lubricate the portion of the router that is sliding against the base to reduce fiction and resolve the issue. Instead of using white grease I would recommend a dry lube spray as this is a wood working tool. I use 3-In-One RV care Window and Track Dry Lube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just for reference the router/table model is #K11RTA-03, and the model of the router is 1311.3.  This is Kobalt item #0857432.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11545" LastEditorUserId="11545" LastEditDate="2022-01-14T03:26:54.150" LastActivityDate="2022-01-14T03:26:54.150" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13461" CreationDate="2022-01-14T12:58:27.457" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a multitude of tools that will help you find the angle you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the sliding t-bevel that will simply find an angle and allow you to set your miter box to the same angle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xMErd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xMErd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lovely wood handled sliding t-bevel&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Images from Amazon.com&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To analog protractors that you could hold against one edge to read the angle of the other:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fAh43.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fAh43.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Plastic protractor&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To digital versions of the same:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bQEsQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bQEsQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;two-bladed digital metal protractor&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To digital &amp;quot;blocks&amp;quot; that simply read out the tilt angle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/phq7L.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/phq7L.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Digital &amp;quot;block&amp;quot; protractor&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;sup&gt;This one even has laser lines for finding the angle at a distance&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are even &amp;quot;protractors&amp;quot; that will help you divide the angle in half:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ou4SZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ou4SZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Angle divider&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Line up the blades in the angle, read the &amp;quot;half-angle&amp;quot; off the scale in the middle&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the first three and the last. The one thing they &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; have in common is that they will get you &lt;em&gt;close&lt;/em&gt; on the first try (some closer than others). From there, you'll still have to adjust and tweak to get the final angle &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; right. The older your house, the more adjustment will be necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since they all require final adjustment and tweaking, you could easily get &lt;em&gt;almost&lt;/em&gt; as close on the first try by simply holding the two pieces of wood close together in position on the stairs, eye-balling the dividing angle and drawing a line. You'd be surprised at just how accurate the Mark I Eyeball™ can be with just a little practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get some cheap scraps of pine from somewhere else on this project or a previous project and use those for finding the angle and test fitting. Once you've got the angle figured out, note it on your miter saw's base (either write the number down or, put a piece of masking tape on the scale and draw a line where the marker point is. The mark-on-tape method will be more accurate if you expect to have to cut multiple pieces at different times and reset the saw to 90° for other cuts in the middle.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get the miter to fit tightly and have the pieces be the right length, be sure to cut and fit the miters first, &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; cut the pieces to the proper length. It's much easier to cut a 90° at the other end 3 times to get the length just right than it is to cut 22.735° to get the miter end adjusted. Especially since your saw will have a detente for 90° and you will have to line it up on your mark by eye for the &amp;quot;random&amp;quot; included angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make &lt;em&gt;clean&lt;/em&gt; cuts on your powered miter saw, a high tooth-count blade will help. Also, cut slowly so the blade has a chance to &lt;em&gt;cut&lt;/em&gt; the wood on the out-bound side instead of tearing it out, and most importantly, put a scrap wood backer block between the piece you want and the saw's fence. This will do the most to support the wood fibers on the &amp;quot;out&amp;quot; side of the cut (where the teeth leave the wood) and help prevent them from splintering off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're cutting small pieces of wood that you don't feel comfortable holding two pieces against the fence, there are a myriad of methods of holding the two pieces together yet still have them be separable after you're done with the cut. I'm sure there are some questions here about that, and if you can't find one, that would be a great subject for a whole new question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2022-01-14T12:58:27.457" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13464" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-14T17:01:18.237" Score="1" ViewCount="231" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to build several outdoor teak chairs, similar to this one &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.williams-sonoma.com/products/larnaca-outdoor-dining-side-chair/?pkey=s%7Elarnaca%7E70&amp;amp;sbkey=williams-sonoma-home&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.williams-sonoma.com/products/larnaca-outdoor-dining-side-chair/?pkey=s~larnaca~70&amp;amp;sbkey=williams-sonoma-home&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YlxIz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YlxIz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;What I am wondering about though is, if I have to cut out the rear leg/back post for the angle or if I could use a (domino) tenon. A tenon would not only be easier but also save a lot of wood. All chair-building plans I found so far seem to cut out the rear leg rather than use a tenon joint between the back post and rear leg. Would a tenon joint not be strong enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11547" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2022-01-14T19:27:38.020" LastActivityDate="2022-01-14T20:16:25.513" Title="Wood chair: Cutting out back post vs (domino) tenons" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13464" CreationDate="2022-01-14T19:14:35.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am wondering about though is, if I have to cut out the rear leg/back post for the angle or if I could use a (domino) tenon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those back joints take a &lt;strong&gt;lot&lt;/strong&gt; of stress! Not only do they carry a lot of the weight of the person sitting in the chair, they also have to resist racking in two directions and the force of someone leaning on the chair's back. It's even worse if the person tilts the chair back on it's back legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are chair designs where the back leg and the posts holding the chair back are separate pieces, but in those cases the back usually has other support, like vertical spindles or the arms of the chair. Even with those extra supports, the joint between the posts and (typically) the seat often fails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/1933502061&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Chairmaking and Design&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; is a great book on chair design by Jeff Miller, and one of the lessons I took from it is that there are lots of different possible designs for chairs, and also lots of problems that only become apparent when you build a prototype. In that spirit, if you think you can do something differently or better but aren't sure that it'll work, then by all means build one and see how it goes. In this case, you don't really have to build the whole chair; you could just cut out one solid leg and also build a version joined with tenons or floating tenons and test them. Keep in mind that there are already two mortise and tenon joints where the seat rails connect to the back leg, so fitting another one in the same area without losing too much strength could prove difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not interested in doing some preliminary testing, I'd stick with using a single solid piece. You can of course reduce waste by nesting several legs together. Paying extra for a wide board could make sense because you'll reduce waste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-01-14T19:14:35.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13464" CreationDate="2022-01-14T20:16:25.513" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a two-piece leg I was all set to recommend alternatives to typical/usual Dominos&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; for reinforcing the joint so as to make them a more viable option, until I realised that the area immediately adjacent to the joint needs to accept the horizontal tenon/dowels/screws that would join the chair rails to those legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any such fixing either A) directly interferes with a Domino (or other floating tenon) regardless of length, ditto dowels, that lies vertically in the wood there or, B) undermines the wood to both sides compromising strength. My gut feeling is there's simply not enough thickness here — even assuming it's strong, straight-grained wood you have bought — to get a guaranteed result&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. Sure, joints like this &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; seen in modern furniture but that's no recommendation; numerous times I've seen furniture repairs where joints featuring just such intersecting or crossing/adjacent joinery have failed, apparently spectacularly judging by the level of splintering around the joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the potential for waste and that you want to use teak I can fully understand the desire not to have to make the rear legs by cutting out of the solid (and that's even without the inflated prices we're seeing today). However, I think the above makes making these legs from two parts really untenable, not if you want to ensure a long and safe working life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't swallow the cost of teak in the required dimensions to make the legs from the solid I have two suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Laminate&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Obviously there's still a certain amount of waste to live with here, but you start with thinner stock which won't have the same $$$ attached to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Choose a different hardwood&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I think perhaps the best option here is to choose to make the chairs from another hardwood (and not just because it will be more modestly priced).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are actually numerous domestic hardwoods you could pick from that have superior exterior durability. That could probably do with being stressed: &lt;em&gt;superior durability&lt;/em&gt; to teak&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even white oak potentially offers a very viable alternative, and while it might be more expensive currently than one would prefer it won't be in the *gulp* territory of teak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If oak doesn't take your fancy see table from the FPL in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/7983/what-kind-of-wood-is-appropriate-for-a-cast-iron-bench/7984#7984&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Which are too short to rely on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Which isn't something you can guarantee you'll be able to get going in to the project. Very often with tropicals unless you're paying a super premium or can carefully select in person from a large standing stock at the supplier (best of luck with that!) you're getting stuff that is not ideal.... and might even have been discounted by a previous generation of woodworkers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Because you won't be buying old-growth teak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-01-14T20:16:25.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10255" CreationDate="2022-01-15T23:08:57.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking into learning how to fasten butt joints of mdf as well. I watched &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mvO6zaIUO18&amp;amp;t=6s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a useful video&lt;/a&gt; by woodworking YouTuber Steve Ramsey on using pocket screws for this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It points out that the  screw should not point toward the end of the receiving piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;     ________________&#xA;    |_ /_______________&#xA;    |/  |&#xA;   /|   |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is better than this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;     ________________&#xA;    |\_______________&#xA;    | \ |&#xA;    |  \|&#xA;    |   |\&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11555" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2022-01-18T16:13:29.587" LastActivityDate="2022-01-18T16:13:29.587" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13469" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13471" CreationDate="2022-01-17T13:19:54.137" Score="6" ViewCount="4633" Body="&lt;p&gt;My oak table shows a split at the side of it. Is there a way I can address it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would you do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have plans of refinishing my oak table with a darker wood stain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wqbmM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wqbmM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11562" LastActivityDate="2022-01-17T16:52:57.970" Title="Repair a crack on the side of an oak table" Tags="|wood-repair|oak|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13469" CreationDate="2022-01-17T15:27:55.213" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several things that can be done, and it depends on how much effort you want to put into it (and what tools you have).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 'best' way of actually 'fixing' the problem is to run it on a table saw at the crack, then rejoin and reglue them back together.  This is a bit extreme, but it will work, take care of the problem and if you can do a good job will look great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it is pretty extreme and you need a few woodworking tools to make it happen (and some experience to do it well).  So the next thing that can be tried is to squeeze some wood glue into the crack and use some pipe clamps to close it up tight while it dries.  Though I would test out the clamping to make sure you are able to actually close the gap before you put any glue in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also put a 'tie' on it, after it is closed you can screw a small piece of wood across the gap to help hold it closed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last and simplest, is to use a wood filler, could be a &amp;quot;crayon&amp;quot; or putty or even some epoxy with dye in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But 'best' is going to be dependent on results you are looking for, equipment available, and effort you want to put into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edited additional ideas from comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;waiting to sand the finish off until after the gluing will help in wiping off the excess glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And there is always the bow tie method of fixing it but I think it's a bit more difficult than any of the above (to get it looking good) and it is an 'obvious' fix unless you manage to just put it on the underside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2022-01-17T16:03:25.640" LastActivityDate="2022-01-17T16:03:25.640" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13459" CreationDate="2022-01-17T16:44:42.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Couple of Ideas&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;there are handy 'drill presses' that can take a regular drill to give you a similar performance to a 'real' drill press.  I just bought my sister one for Christmas.  Most are between $25-$45.  They aren't heavy duty, but to drill straight smallish diameter holes, they are more than sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Getting 'long' bits.  I have a 1/4&amp;quot; bit that is 18&amp;quot; long it cost less than $10, so you should be able to get a 'special' bit for your project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;you seem to have a couple boards that you need to have lined up, Line them up, drill your holes through the first one and a little way into the next, take the first one off the top, then drill most of the way through the bottom board, and when the braid comes through flip it for clean hole.  Having a board on the back side when you drill through a board helps keep it clean too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2022-01-17T16:44:42.460" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13469" CreationDate="2022-01-17T16:52:57.970" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A basic crack in wood is very easy to fix as long as the crack surfaces are clean, you can thoroughly coat the surfaces with glue (various tricks can help with that), and then can clamp nice and tightly so that the crack closes completely. If that's all possible usually everything will go well&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;However, step #1 here should be to diagnose &lt;strong&gt;why&lt;/strong&gt; the crack occurred and addressing that first, before any re-glueing attempt.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the construction of the tabletop, from many short lengths&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, a crack like this should not have happened because when well made panels like this should be both stronger and more stable than a few wider boards glued together along their edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that a crack occurred at all may indicate a fault in the way the table's structure is designed, which regrettably is not at all unusual in modern furniture. This needs to be addressed first because if you don't another crack elsewhere is entirely possible, for exactly the same reason — stress built up enough due to wood movement until &lt;em&gt;something&lt;/em&gt; had to give, and this often results in the top warping or cracking to relieve the tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's important to see if the above is a possible/likely cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, if the table is put together well then it probably indicates the crack is a drying crack. If so there's always the chance another one could occur at some point in the future and you can do little or nothing to avoid it other than to apply a much more comprehensive (read: thicker) finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Well-glued cracks can end up stronger than the wood was before as amazing as that sounds, because glue joints are stronger than wood is along the grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; A type of &amp;quot;stave construction&amp;quot; now most commonly (but incorrectly) called butcher block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-01-17T16:52:57.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13474" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13475" CreationDate="2022-01-17T19:08:51.807" Score="4" ViewCount="856" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sprayed a water based polyurethane (Minwax) on a lot of cabinets, but it was about 15 years ago. It was relatively noxious, but it sprayed great out of my inexpensive HVLP gun and compressor. I'm guessing that it had higher VOCs than what I just bought, because I remember it being pretty noxious. Fast forward to today, I bought a gallon of the Varathane Ultimate polyurethane water based clear-satin and it would not go through the gun! Water goes through great, but not this stuff. I called Rust-Oleum tech support and they say that it shouldn't be sprayed or thinned!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question, is whether this is really true, or are they just concerned that somebody might thin too much, etc., so it's easier to just say &amp;quot;no&amp;quot;. The label says use a brush, but there aren't any comments about NOT using a sprayer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm willing to go against their advice of not thinning if someone has experience with this, but otherwise, I need to find a new product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have any experience with spraying this? Do you have suggestions about a clear water based product that is sprayable? Thanks for any advice that you can offer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I did call Minwax and Rust-Oleum, and neither carry a sprayable water based clear)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11566" LastEditorUserId="11575" LastEditDate="2022-01-20T14:56:43.670" LastActivityDate="2022-01-20T14:56:43.670" Title="Can I spray Minwax water based polyurethane clear satin?" Tags="|polyurethane|refinishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13474" CreationDate="2022-01-18T12:30:11.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, sprayers require the material to be thin enough to be sprayed, and many include viscosity cups to determine if the material is thin enough. I'd decant a portion into a separate container (say a pint), add measured amounts of water to thin it to the required viscosity, then do a test spray and see how it works. If you're satisfied with the results, thin the rest of the gallon with the same percentage of water that you used for the pint, stir well, then spray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; possible, though, that while the initial application may look really good, the thinned poly won't protect as well or last as long as it would have straight out of the can. If you chose to do this, any lack of life or protection is on you, as the manufacturer has clearly stated that this goes against the product's recommended usage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that neither company that you checked with makes a poly that's thin enough to be sprayed does give a strong indication that it just won't hold up as well as you'd expect or desire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2022-01-18T12:30:11.457" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13476" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-18T19:02:46.653" Score="4" ViewCount="303" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry for my novice question, but I'm looking to buy some blades (for using with wood) for my dads old Bosch PST 50 AE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TAkr0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TAkr0.png&quot; alt=&quot;Bosch PST 50 AE&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would just any Bosch blades fit this old Bosch model?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or has there been (or are there) different type of blade shanks that Bosch uses?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found these &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.clasohlson.com/se/Sticks%C3%A5gsblad-Bosch,-sortiment/p/40-9351&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;blades&lt;/a&gt; and they are using &amp;quot;T-shanks&amp;quot;, would they fit?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yTyiZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yTyiZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Blades&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has this image anything to do with what type of blade shanks is being used?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WCFul.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WCFul.png&quot; alt=&quot;Symbol&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8085" LastActivityDate="2022-01-19T02:22:51.763" Title="Type of blade shanks for Bosch PST 50 AE" Tags="|power-tools|blade|saw-blade|jigsaw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13476" CreationDate="2022-01-18T23:57:51.983" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although not foolproof, you can generally figure out which style to use in the saw by the way the blade connects to the saw. In general, if you need a tool to change the blade, it's a U-shank. If you can do it without a tool it's a T-shank. There are exceptions, and this looks to be one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some especially old jigsaws take a U-shank blade with an additional hole in it, and unless you can modify a new blade to fit, these are becoming much harder to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NBOM7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NBOM7.png&quot; alt=&quot;T, U, and &amp;quot;Universal&amp;quot; blades - https://www.tooled-up.com/blog/choosing-jigsaw-blades/&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bunch of saws that take T-shank will also run on U-shank too. This is &amp;quot;more true&amp;quot; with newer saws I believe. And in the interest of universal fit, Ryobi (and probably others) make blades that are supposed combine features and work with &amp;quot;any&amp;quot; saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the age of the saw, my first thought was that U-shank blades would be the most likely fit, but &lt;strong&gt;looking around the Internet makes me think that that particular model uses T-shank blades or, more likely, either kind of blade.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of current ebay listings for that specific saw which include assorted T-shank blades. That seems to suggest that T-shank is the fit.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hvcOv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hvcOv.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/L68Js3FefCc?t=127&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;JDV has shared a link for a YouTube video&lt;/a&gt; that shows the procedure for changing the blade with a similar Bosch saw model that seems to use T-shank blades and a long screwdriver that came with the saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also found pictures of the reverse side of the saw which features a label that seems to specify which blades are recommended for different materials.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AogZy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AogZy.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2022-01-19T02:22:51.763" LastActivityDate="2022-01-19T02:22:51.763" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6229" CreationDate="2022-01-19T08:19:03.140" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lots of opinions on this subject. Remember the objective, to achieve the finest point possible between two faces. How one gets there is up to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the lower the angle, the easier the cut (if sharp) but the weaker the edge. The higher the angle, the harder the cut but the stronger the edge. 25-30 degrees seems to have worked for centuries so I don’t mess with this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I start with 800-1200g (no lower needed unless I have to change the angle or have severely damaged the edge.) I grind just until I feel a slight burr. Then I use 2000 or even 4000g until I see the lines disappear from the 1200g. Then I use 6000g or 8000g until the lines are pretty much gone. Then I remove the remaining burr on the back using my finest stone. A quick strop on leather charged with abrasive paste and I’m ready to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Subsequent sharpening can be with just the strop or the 8000g stone and then the strop. Warning…if you are going for a secondary bevel, take care not to roll over the edge. Use a guide or practice until you can freehand hone a flat surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, I have 35 years experience in the wood shop. When I finally learned to sharpen properly (about 20 years ago), it took about 2 years before I felt I was getting the sharp I wanted. Even now, I sometimes must have a do-over as I messed something up the first time around. Be patient and forgiving. You’ll get there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11576" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2022-01-25T13:48:28.853" LastActivityDate="2022-01-25T13:48:28.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13479" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13482" CreationDate="2022-01-19T21:58:34.997" Score="0" ViewCount="395" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to use a router to cut a 1/4&amp;quot; slot (in poplar) to make a panel door with 1/4&amp;quot; plywood. (In the past I've use a table saw.) I need to buy a bit. I'm choosing 1/2&amp;quot; shank so it will be stouter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see that these slot cutters come configured with the bearing above or below the cutter. Is there a reason to choose one or the other, bearing above or below the cutter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11566" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2022-01-25T13:47:45.003" LastActivityDate="2022-01-25T13:47:45.003" Title="Is there an advantage to have the bearing above or below a 1/4&quot; cutter router bit" Tags="|router|router-bit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13480" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13481" CreationDate="2022-01-19T22:57:00.283" Score="3" ViewCount="1266" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry, just one more novice question about my dad's old Bosch PST 50 AE, before I buy new blades, bear with me....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HLT6D.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HLT6D.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...and is it supposed to be like that and look this way? Or is it broken?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pc4vU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pc4vU.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vPdnp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vPdnp.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...is it not in the way of the blade?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8085" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-01-20T10:03:35.560" LastActivityDate="2022-01-21T14:16:47.553" Title="What is this metal bar in the front of the jigsaw?" Tags="|power-tools|jigsaw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13480" CreationDate="2022-01-19T23:33:16.723" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;That appears to be ref. 52 in the parts diagram, simply identified as &amp;quot;Pin&amp;quot; (part no. 2 603 105 051).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XYA5v.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XYA5v.png&quot; alt=&quot;PST 50 AE parts diagram&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in the manual for a similar vintage model (view &lt;a href=&quot;https://manuall.co.uk/bosch-pst-50-pe-jigsaw/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; on Manuall.co.uk), this is identified as the Contact Guard, possibly a last line of defence in case the user breaks, discards, or chooses not to use the sliding plastic guard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thankfully your jigsaw still has the plastic guard and it looks like it is in good condition so you won't have to rely on the pin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-01-21T14:16:47.553" LastActivityDate="2022-01-21T14:16:47.553" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13479" CreationDate="2022-01-20T18:01:09.070" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see that these slot cutters come configured with the bearing above or below the cutter. Is there a reason to choose one or the other, bearing above or below the cutter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Router bits with bearings are meant for following a pattern of some sort; the bearing rides against the edge of the pattern and guides the path of bit, so that the bit cuts the workpiece to a similar shape. Sometimes it's easiest to put the pattern on top of the workpiece, other times it's easiest to put the workpiece on top of the pattern. That's why some bits have the bearing close to the shank, while others have it at the end of the bit. Neither is better than the other, they're just different styles for different situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to use a router to cut a 1/4&amp;quot; slot (in poplar) to make a panel door with 1/4&amp;quot; plywood. (In the past I've use a table saw.) I need to buy a bit. I'm choosing 1/2&amp;quot; shank so it will be stouter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you don't need a bit with a bearing at all. If you're talking about forming a dado along the edge of the rails and stiles to hold the panel, you just need a straight bit with no bearing. This is really a job that's best done with a router table and a fence, so that the fence will guide the workpiece over the bit; you can attach a fence to a handheld router, but even with the fence it's hard to hold the router exactly in line with the workpiece so that you can make a clean cut because the edge of the workpiece is so narrow. If you must use the router handheld for this, clamp the workpiece to something more substantial, like a workbench or a piece of 4x4, so that the edge you want to rout is flush with the top surface. That'll give the router base a wider surface to ride on. Use a fence on the router to determine the bit's position on the edge of the workpiece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-01-20T18:01:09.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13483" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13484" CreationDate="2022-01-21T05:30:22.573" Score="6" ViewCount="2692" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought the following drill guide so that I can make perpendicular holes in wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DbkDA.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DbkDA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even using this tool, I failed and I am wondering if the problem is my technique, or if I have bought a faulty piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I insert an 8mm drill into the 8mm hole, there is plenty of space for the drill to move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can move the tip of the drill about 2mm along the ruler:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NspEp.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NspEp.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a faulty piece, or were these guides never meant to be zero-clearance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5579" LastActivityDate="2022-01-25T13:49:17.217" Title="Are drill guides supposed to be zero-clearance?" Tags="|drilling|measurement|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13483" CreationDate="2022-01-21T11:05:50.347" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This could be a manufacturing issue (not necessarily the one you're thinking of, more on that below) or it could be entirely within specs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With metal bushings the fit &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; be loose enough you don't get binding on the bit (metal rubbing against metal at high speed, with little or no lubrication, is a bad day waiting to happen) but how much play is going to vary guide to guide&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. And bit set to bit set......&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It could be the bit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Whatever tolerance the guide happens to have, there's every chance the bit isn't quite the diameter you think it is — at the tip at least. Good drill bits are famous for not being exactly the size they're nominally supposed to be (except on the shaft, where they tend to mic out to just the size you expect)&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't necessarily a manufacturing defect however, because all drilled holes end up slightly larger than the drill diameter — even in a good drill press, &lt;em&gt;and even when drilling metal&lt;/em&gt; — a slightly under-size drill bit could produce holes that are closer to the expected diameter than one might expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;can move the tip of the drill about 2mm along the ruler&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can move the tip of the bit that far &lt;em&gt;at that extension&lt;/em&gt;. The amount of play right at the exit point will of course be much less than 2mm and I imagine could be within acceptable tolerances for some of the expected uses of such a guide&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing to do is drill a number of test holes in wood using as many matching drill bits as you have for all the holes and see how much off vertical they can tend to be. Then determine if this is acceptable to you for the applications you envisage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also suggest you try holes in a range of woods, at least in one hardwood as well as softwood. You might discover a greater tendency for the entry holes to be slightly off target much more frequently in softwoods than in hardwoods due to the large variation in hardness between the pale and darker grown rings in most softwoods; this often leads to a drilled hole starting poorly, even with a deep awl mark as a starter, and is one of the reasons for the tip mentioned in footnote 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; This occurs with pocket-screw jigs, and a tighter fit of bit to sleeve is a feature of better-made jigs. Note that some of these rely on purpose-made drill bits to provide this fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; With cheap drill bits (and not just ones made in recent years in China!) all bets are off, and you should expect none of them to be precisely the size they're supposed to be. Since getting a digital calipers I've personally measured errors as high as 7% at small sizes and I'm sure there must be worse out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; For example with dowelling, a slight discrepancy in position between paired holes is not just acceptable it's normal enough that there are user tips to account for it, e.g. chamfering the edges of both the dowels and the holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-01-21T11:05:50.347" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13486" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-21T19:26:28.667" Score="2" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently picked up a Stanley #1 plane. Apparently, a previous owner dropped, and a small chunk broke off from a corner of the sole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can this area be filled in with weld metal and resurfaced (flattened) to the point that the repair is not visible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11593" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2022-01-21T22:56:54.447" LastActivityDate="2022-01-22T05:21:14.910" Title="Stanley #1 Plane" Tags="|plane|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13486" CreationDate="2022-01-21T19:35:41.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In theory yes.  Someone who knows welding and the materials should be able to do an excellent job filling it in.  Even I could probably manage to make it work.  the quality of the patch and the likelihood of it staying will vary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's steel (vs. cast iron) it will require a different level of knowledge. I believe cast iron takes a lot more knowledge to get right, and sometimes it still fails.  At that point you might want to fill it in with JB Weld and call it good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How 'invisible' do you want the repair or is just making it 'useful' again enough?  JB Weld would certainly do the trick, probably with less overall mess. It can be shaped well and then filed to clean it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2022-01-22T00:30:17.637" LastActivityDate="2022-01-22T00:30:17.637" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13483" CreationDate="2022-01-22T02:55:07.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clamping the guide to the work piece is essential to keeping the drilled hole in the correct position. THE GUIDE HOLE MUST BE TIGHT WITH THE SURFACE OF THE WORK PIECE, unlike what the picture shows. A gap allows for movement of the drill bit in the guide hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also when drilling into wood brad point drill bits work better and will not drift across the surface (called a walking drill bit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bring the guide to your supply store to fit the drill bit to the guide. You should know you get what you pay for in drill bits so be selective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11594" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2022-01-25T13:49:17.217" LastActivityDate="2022-01-25T13:49:17.217" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13486" CreationDate="2022-01-22T05:21:14.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can this area be filled in with weld metal and resurfaced (flattened) to the point that the repair is not visible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The weld&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The weld itself is always visible (on cast iron more than some other materials) even to the non-expert viewer&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. This is no matter what weld material is chosen or the welding method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Potential warping&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Traditional practice when welding cast iron is to pre-heat the whole part. Even on beefy parts like old engine blocks this can cause slight movement in the casting, with plane bodies which are so thin the warping can be a big issue and people have lost planes when this was attempted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern welding materials can safely weld cast iron without pre-heating, however the welding itself will locally heat the metal, which can also lead to warping on a thin casting. More on the heat aspect in the last point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The resurfacing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;First off, best of luck finding someone who &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; do this. Fixturing an odd-shaped item like a plane body casting is a challenge, even more so here because of the diminutive size of the no. 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, the cost of surface grinding is often far higher than one would expect, unless you have a friend who can do it for 'mates rates'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also visualise the number of places that need to be addressed if a corner is filled with weld&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that collector value takes a hit if you disturb the patina on any part, and here it involves interfering with it on &lt;em&gt;at least four&lt;/em&gt; bare-metal surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also that welding creates a characteristic colour bloom (from oxide formation on the iron or steel) which extends far beyond the site of the weld.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The japanning&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Welding involves significant heat being put into the welded part, either locally (very high heat) or over the whole casting as mentioned previously (high to very high heat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Japanning doesn't survive extremely high temps, so at minimum you will lose some japanning in a rough quarter circle around the site of the weld. And obviously with pre-heating (which is considered safest practice when welding cast iron by many experts) you could lose &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Since both the colour and texture are usually noticeably different; this is even without any tiny voids being left within or to the side of the weld. These are hard to entirely avoid and stand out as black pinholes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; It's not just the two major flat surfaces which come most easily to mind. A corner repair involves the junction between the cheek and the sole, so both sides of both &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; their edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-01-22T05:21:14.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13491" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-23T15:36:27.973" Score="3" ViewCount="954" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old dressing table, and the mirror frame is coming apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How best to repair it?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I am thinking carpenter glue, but I'm not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mti8H.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mti8H.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;mirror frame&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11600" LastEditorUserId="11575" LastEditDate="2022-01-27T12:12:22.113" LastActivityDate="2022-01-27T12:12:22.113" Title="How to fix this mirror frame that is coming apart?" Tags="|joinery|glue|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13491" CreationDate="2022-01-24T03:35:21.363" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general just getting some PVA glue in there and clamping the mitre closed (IF you can even do this with sufficient force) won't do enough, for a couple of reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of the adhesive you want to use for the job when repairing a joint you really want to remove any previous glue residue so that as much as possible the new glue is bonding wood to wood, not trying to bond old glue to old glue. We can't really see what's going on in there from the photo but it appears not to be a plain, unreinforced mitre and as a result cleaning the mating surfaces will be difficult at best, even with some of the specialist tools used for such jobs&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one or more of the other corner joints is not rock solid ideally the frame needs to be taken apart (carefully!) and possibly all four corners re-glued, for a strong and long-lasting repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you're going ahead anyway&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If you must attempt to repair this as-is the number one priority is to do all you can to clean every surface that will be bonded together &lt;em&gt;without damaging them, or adjacent surfaces&lt;/em&gt;. You can see how much easier this would be with the joint fully apart so you're not forced to work in such tight quarters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, check first if you can even clamp the mitre closed&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Occasionally when a corner comes apart something will prevent the mitre from closing back tightly together as it should&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;, which again points to it being desirable to take the frame apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Pros do this with some combination of carbide/steel scrapers, dental tools and sharp chisels. Some use of a heat gun or solvents may also be employed, depending on the previous glue used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Which needs to be done with the mirror off the dressing table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Glue from an old repair, splintered wood or a damaged/misplaced reinforcement such as a tenon or dowel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-01-24T03:35:21.363" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13494" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-24T10:39:30.360" Score="2" ViewCount="487" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen projects on Instructables and elsewhere where people have placed wood veneer over LEDs to create clocks, and other devices, or they might drill thicker wood down so that the LED has only veneer thickness of wood in front of it. Can this be done with an LCD monitor? If it can, how thin would the wood have to be to allow the LCD to show through suitable without the wood looking 'wrong' when the device is switched off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11606" LastActivityDate="2022-01-25T22:02:12.070" Title="Wood over LCD monitor" Tags="|wood|veneer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13496" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-24T12:10:01.970" Score="4" ViewCount="829" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought my first jointer and I set it up according to several tutorial videos online. My knives are slightly above the outfeed table, and I used a ruler to see how many millimetres is the ruler moved. It's moved by 3mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wSTJO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wSTJO.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used this method to check the knives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT1: tutorials I followed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fvbfdzkPPSg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fvbfdzkPPSg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2u8OAS8-xJY&amp;amp;t=241s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2u8OAS8-xJY&amp;amp;t=241s&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodmagazine.com/tool-reviews/joiners-planers/setting-jointer-knives-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.woodmagazine.com/tool-reviews/joiners-planers/setting-jointer-knives-2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodgears.ca/jointer/knives.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://woodgears.ca/jointer/knives.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I'm getting a slight bow at the centre of the the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see the bow at the photos below. I planed two edges on two boards and they do not touch perfectly. I get the same bow on the faces of the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opinion is that the tables on the planer are too small. The planer tables are 150 cm long (infeed 75cm and outfeed 75cm) but I could be wrong. Could this be just wrong technique? I apply small pressure just after the cutting head on an outfeed table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for your suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rvgp0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rvgp0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/69L9O.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/69L9O.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mmpr5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mmpr5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11607" LastEditorUserId="11607" LastEditDate="2022-01-24T14:39:42.103" LastActivityDate="2022-01-24T20:34:08.577" Title="Jointer setup gives bow on the board" Tags="|jointer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13494" CreationDate="2022-01-24T13:33:47.233" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LED technology is a single point of super bright light (some of which is visible to humans) which diffuses nicely. LEDs &lt;em&gt;emit&lt;/em&gt; light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LCD is not a technology that typically emits light. LCDs &lt;em&gt;reflect&lt;/em&gt; light, and it is this contrast between a separate light source and the segments reflecting the light or not that give us the intelligence. They certainly don't emit bright points of light. Any lighting in an LCD application is usually a separate back- or side-light, which will already be very diffuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, at best, you'd be trying to cast the &lt;em&gt;shadow&lt;/em&gt; of the display segments onto the back of a veneer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can experiment and see but my assertion is that it will not work very well. Maybe one of those super back-lit displays meant for searing eyeballs whilst watching television sports might work? But instead of a wood veneer you could incorporate some sort of (polarizing or not) bezel that is meant to make LCDs pretty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also the same for e-ink displays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2022-01-24T17:53:42.317" LastActivityDate="2022-01-24T17:53:42.317" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13498" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-24T13:36:03.603" Score="5" ViewCount="561" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a bench-top jointer and I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; I set up the outfeed table properly according to the instructions that came with it. A straight edge placed on the outfeed table just touches the tip of the cutters when the head is at top dead center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/13496/jointer-setup-gives-bow-on-the-board?noredirect=1#comment29176_13496&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; the asker states&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used a ruler to see how many millimetres is the ruler moved. It's moved by 3mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Indicating to me that his understanding is that the cutter should actually lift the straight edge and move it slightly toward the infeed table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This now has me doubting if I set my outfeed table up correctly, or if I've actually got it a bit too low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When setting up a jointer outfeed table, should the tip of the cutter be dead even with the surface of the outfeed table, or should it actually be fractionally higher?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it should be fractionally higher, is the &amp;quot;move a ruler forward by 3mm&amp;quot; a good measure of how much higher it should be?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, is the true measure of the accuracy simply jointing two boards and ensuring they come out dead square to each other, no matter what technique one uses to set that up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2022-01-25T13:35:27.617" Title="How should a jointer outfeed table be setup?" Tags="|power-tools|jointer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13494" CreationDate="2022-01-24T15:08:34.310" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can this be done with an LCD monitor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That'll depends on the monitor and what results you expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth thinking about how the effect works. I see it as a version of the theatrical scrim effect, where a fabric (scrim) with a very open weave is suspended in front of a scene. When the scene behind it is dark and the scrim is lit from the front, the audience only sees the scrim; when the front lighting is decreased and the scene behind the scrim is lit, the scrim becomes nearly transparent, and the audience sees through it. Another version of the same effect is the practice of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screen_painting&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;painting window screens&lt;/a&gt; for privacy in city settings; people passing on the street during the day see only the painting, while people inside the house can see outside just fine. This is what you're trying to accomplish: you want enough transmission that when the screen is lit, that's what you see, but when it's dark, you only see the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd start by looking at the screen to see how bright you can make it. You'll also need to consider the light in the room; you'll get better results in a dark room. Paper is close enough to wood that it makes a good substitute for testing. For example, I can make my screen bright enough that I can just read it through one sheet of standard copy paper, and I can barely see the image through two sheets; in a darker room, I could probably see that there &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; an image through three sheets. That tells me that if I'm going to use wood veneer, it'll probably have to be around 0.1-0.2 mm thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There might be some tricks you could use to increase light transmission through the veneer, like using a laser to drill a zillion tiny holes in it. For example, some Apple products have LED lights that are visible through what appears to be solid aluminum, and of course the trick is that the aluminum actually has an array of tiny holes that let the light pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also need to consider that paper or veneer will diffuse any light that passes through, creating a big reduction in detail. If you just want to do a clock with big numbers, you can probably get it to work; if you want to read small text, it's probably not going to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative you could consider is another lighting trick called &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pepper%27s_ghost&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pepper's ghost&lt;/a&gt;. The idea is that you place a transparent screen (glass or plexiglas) angled downward in front of a background, and then project an image onto the screen from below. In your case, you'd put a layer of wood on the back wall of a box, your LCD screen on the bottom of the box, and a piece of glass angled from the top front edge of the box to the bottom rear edge. When the screen is lit, you'll see it reflected on the glass in front of the wood; when it's not lit, you'll just see the wood. The same concept is used in heads up displays, haunted houses, some old arcade video games, and teleprompters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your goal is just to make a computer screen look like a piece of wood when it's not being used, your best bet might be to just install a screensaver with an image of wood grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Additional ideas:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://phys.org/news/2019-11-transparent-wood-material-future.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Transparent wood&lt;/a&gt; has gotten a lot of attention in the last two years. The process involves bleaching the opaque pigments out of ordinary wood, and then impregnating the wood with a clear resin. Most of the examples you see in articles show pieces of wood that have been bleached completely, but it stands to reason that you might be able to use the same process to remove only some of the pigment and thereby increase the material's light transmission while still keeping some of the look of wood grain when there's no light behind it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A simple, practical solution would be to simply cover the monitor with some kind of wood panel when not in use. If you can build the monitor into a table or cabinet, you could have a motorized panel that slides into place. Or you could make a tambour panel that bends around the top or side of the monitor and rolls up behind it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2022-01-25T22:02:12.070" LastActivityDate="2022-01-25T22:02:12.070" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6229" CreationDate="2022-01-24T16:46:29.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I agree with a lot of what's been said here, the best piece of advice I've ever seen on this topic was from Chris Schwarz who said to do your research, pick a system, and stick with it - effectively no matter what. Otherwise, you're going to spend a lot of time and money changing systems and making a hash of your tools and your work. (Of course, I'm paraphrasing.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a lot of work, I finally settled on a series of DMT stones (their extra coarse, fine, and medium extra fine), but I finish critical blades (chisels, planes, etc.) with a Shapton glass stone (16,000 grit for comparison). This has proven to work very well for me. My process is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I get a new tool (especially if it's old), I check to make sure the back is flat. This usually involves going back to the extra coarse stone. For the most severe cases, I finally gave in and got their extra-extra coarse stone. I'd rather spend time on that than go to a grinder. Once it's flat, I &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; need to touch the back with anything other than the finest stones.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I move through the grits. At the end, the back is dead flat and polished to a mirror. (Note that depending on the original condition of the blade, I don't worry about getting the whole thing flat; see the other answers above.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then I move to the bevel, doing the same thing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once I have the tool sharp, touching up after work - even hard work - doesn't take long at all, and depending on how dull the tool got, I almost never need to use the coarser stones. I've never had to go back to the extra-extra coarse stone. (I'm sure when I drop a tool I will. It's just a matter of time.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, the blade is super, super sharp. I don't use a strop because my finest diamond stone is finer than the grit of the charging materials that are used - it would dull my blades!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen what you're talking about - chasing that wire burr can be a challenge, but it's not difficult to take care of. It's just a matter of weakening the wire enough for it to come off. Most of the time, it comes off when I wipe my blade clean between stones. If not, dragging the back of the blade across the next-finer stone usually does it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11604" LastActivityDate="2022-01-24T16:46:29.650" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13498" CreationDate="2022-01-24T16:55:20.210" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Doesn't make any sense to me why you'd have the blade higher than the out feed table.  Since it would then always be cutting 'that much' more than what your gage says you are cutting off.  Including if you put your infeed table at '0'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me personally, it makes sense that if I have a nice done joint and I set the intable to 0, and I run the board again, it should basically 'burnish' the edge &lt;strike&gt;, certainly not cut another 3mm off of it&lt;/strike&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also don't see how having it higher by more than a whisker, would actually make flat boards, since the outfeed table being lower, should put a slight curve in the board, depending on your technique.  The point of having the blades even with the outfeed table is to have immediate support for the board with the 'missing' wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mine is set so the the blades just catch a straight edge on the outboard table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDT: And to get a 'slight' curve for glue ups, pushing down a little harder in the middle on a last pass tends to give me a nice tiny bow that works well for clamping and gluing you really don't need much, and I only want it on one board of the two (at least it works great that way for me!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2022-01-25T13:35:27.617" LastActivityDate="2022-01-25T13:35:27.617" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7645" CreationDate="2022-01-24T17:20:42.583" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I avoid this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a router to cut stopped dados instead. If you're limited to using a table saw, and that saw doesn't happen to have a router table built into it, it's pretty much unavoidable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a trick?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only if you consider using a tool other than a table saw tricky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A different kind of corner joint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure, that'll work. I thought you were asking about box joints. If other joints are fair game, then you could use a rabbet or a miter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far the only thing I’ve done is cut plugs to fit in the holes, but then the grain doesn’t match up properly and they still look like a sloppy patch job (which they are).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plugs should show end grain to match the rest of the finger, and end grain usually has a pretty uniform appearance. Leave the plug a bit proud of the corner while the glue dries, and then sand it flush. Nobody who doesn't know about woodworking will notice, and nobody who does know about woodworking will mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that can help is to line the dado up with one of the fingers in the joint. The way you've drawn it in your sketch, you've got holes on both sides of the corner, but if you make the dado the same width as a finger and lined up, you only get the hole on one side. Or, you could make the dado the same width as a finger, but lined up centered on the intersection between two fingers; you'd then have holes on both sides, but they'd only be half the height of a finger, so the plugs would be smaller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A box joint is a utilitarian joint — they're very strong, and you can make them quickly and even in batches. If your aim is to impress, you should probably choose a dovetail joint or some variation of a miter joint, like &amp;quot;secret&amp;quot; mitered dovetails. That's not to say that box joints can't look good; you just can't have your cake and eat it too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-01-24T17:20:42.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1545" CreationDate="2022-01-24T17:32:34.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One option no one has mentioned and actually works very well is a power washer.  it can take bark and dirt off and scour the wood clean.  This is actually the preferred way when cleaning up root balls for furniture etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the type of wood you are using, many species don't need much more than peeling the bark clean.  And as far as peeling bark, the best time is in the spring when the sap is running.  It peels very nice and depending once again on the species 'easy'.  Winter wood is the worst for peeling.  once it's peeled, you can wash it to get rid of the sap and let them dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some species need a little more work, planning or sanding small branches and nubins etc.  a random orbit can clean these up nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But water (with or without soap) does an amazing job to get branches to the state requested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2022-01-24T17:32:34.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13496" CreationDate="2022-01-24T20:34:08.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My knives are slightly above the outfeed table&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I suspected they would be, the Wood Magazine instructions are correct, but you missed one critical detail in the wording:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;When the knife moves the block about 1⁄8&amp;quot;, as shown, &lt;strong&gt;without lifting it off the table&lt;/strong&gt;, you have the correct knife-height setting.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this is directly contradicted by one or more of your other sources but listen to the following passing reference in &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/OQIcLWPtFcw?t=147&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; Fine Woodworking video (on shimming a jointer's outfeed table to fix sagging).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-01-24T20:34:08.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13498" CreationDate="2022-01-24T21:09:19.380" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When setting up a jointer outfeed table, should the tip of the cutter be dead even with the surface of the outfeed table, or should it actually be fractionally higher?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, the outfeed table should be dead even with the cutter at the top of it's arc. The trick with the ruler is that it translates a very tiny vertical error into a much more readable horizontal error... if the blade moves the ruler 3 mm, it probably extends less than 0.1 mm above the outfeed table, and that's probably better than being 0.1 mm below the table. Also, being able to quantify the error lets you ensure that it's the same on both sides of the table... if the ruler moves 3 mm on the left side and also on the right, then the blade must be parallel to the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd put this in the same category as adjusting your rip fence so that it's a few thou farther from the blade at the back of the blade than at the front: ideally, you want the rip fence to be exactly parallel, but a lot of people feel that they can never achieve perfection, so they'd prefer to introduce a tiny error in the direction that suits them best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it should be fractionally higher, is the &amp;quot;move a ruler forward by 3mm&amp;quot; a good measure of how much higher it should be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I addressed the &amp;quot;should&amp;quot; part above, so let's just talk about how good the test is. The idea is that when you're very close to the edge of a circle, the circle looks almost like a straight line, and the ratio between the length of a chord and the distance from the midpoint of the cord to the edge of the circle becomes quite large. The ruler here is a line intersecting the circle that is the blade's path; the distance that the ruler moves is the length of the cord, and the vertical distance that the blade lifts the ruler is the distance from the ruler to the edge of the circle. Let's say the blade traces a circle of diameter 65 mm and the ruler moves 3 mm; then &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.handymath.com/cgi-bin/arc18.cgi?convrad=mm&amp;amp;convarc=mm&amp;amp;convwid=mm&amp;amp;convhei=mm&amp;amp;convapo=mm&amp;amp;convtet=deg&amp;amp;convare=ft&amp;amp;rad1=32.5&amp;amp;arc1=&amp;amp;wid1=3&amp;amp;hei1=&amp;amp;apo1=&amp;amp;tet1=&amp;amp;are1=&amp;amp;submit=Calculate&amp;amp;numnum=1&amp;amp;moreless=1&amp;amp;decimal=5&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the height of the arc is about 0.035 mm&lt;/a&gt;, which isn't nearly enough to worry about. So I think that the ruler trick does give a very good indication of the height of the blade above the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-01-24T21:09:19.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13506" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-24T21:36:03.353" Score="1" ViewCount="1587" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to figure out how to attach the three parallel wooden beams on the picture below to &lt;s&gt;a wall or a wooden base&lt;/s&gt; a wooden base made of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.k-rauta.fi/tuote/havuvaneri-tuonti-cc-15x2400x1200mm-ce2/6405422690893&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;. The connection must be solid because it will be used for pull-ups from the smaller wooden plate's side (front side on the second picture). What would be the most secure way to perform that? I don't really care about the looks, it can be however ugly but it should be strong enough to hold a person and should not take significantly more place than on the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tQQKF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tQQKF.png&quot; alt=&quot;Wall mount back&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8IQOu.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8IQOu.png&quot; alt=&quot;Wall mount front&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XroyT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XroyT.png&quot; alt=&quot;Wall mount&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11609" LastEditorUserId="11609" LastEditDate="2022-01-25T07:27:56.210" LastActivityDate="2022-01-25T09:48:35.750" Title="How to attach a beam perpendicularly to a wall?" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13507" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13510" CreationDate="2022-01-24T23:31:55.690" Score="3" ViewCount="620" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to build paint grade shaker style vanity cabinet doors. I will use 1/4&amp;quot; plywood for the panel. I haven't loooked, but I'm guessing I can find 1/4&amp;quot; Birch plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what kind of wood to use for the frame. I'm thinking poplar might be a good choice since it's plentiful and looks pretty nice. Price is a factor and I want something that's relatively easy to work with tool-wise. I'd appreciate any suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11566" LastEditorUserId="11575" LastEditDate="2022-01-27T12:12:33.207" LastActivityDate="2022-01-27T12:12:33.207" Title="What is a good choice for wood to build painted vanity cabinet doors?" Tags="|wood|wood-selection|cabinetry|door|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13508" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-24T23:44:06.393" Score="1" ViewCount="227" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 3/4” wide and 16’ long piece of raw pine that I’m finishing as a countertop for some storage cabinets in the living room. I plan to use water based stain and polycrylic. I’ve been working on it in the garage but will need to move it inside the house to the living room when it’s done. Because the piece is so long, it tends to bend slightly when carrying it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have any experience with long lumber?  Will the poly crack when I move it? Or can it handle a little movement without cracking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m trying to decide if I need to do the poly in place to avoid that. I don’t want to (for many reasons) but don't want to ruin the hard work of finishing it when I move it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11610" LastActivityDate="2022-01-25T00:27:43.753" Title="Will poly crack if wood bends?" Tags="|finishing|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13508" CreationDate="2022-01-25T00:27:43.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Film finishes, when new especially, are perfectly capable of flexing within reason. In fact, no finish you apply today will be fully cured by the time you go to install this so no need to worry even if life gets in the way and it's a week or two by the time you get to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's mostly with finishes that have degraded over time that lack of flexibility is an issue. When that happens even the extremely minor expansion and contraction of wood with seasonal changes in humidity is enough to get the finish to begin cracking ('crazing') which just gets worse from then on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can easily confirm the flexibility of any finish you have now or get in the future by applying it to paper. The paper &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; stiffen significantly as you might expect, but you'll be amazed at how much you can bend and warp the sheet without it cracking — far beyond what any piece of wood can do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that flexibility is partly a function of film thickness. As with glass, a very thin layer is surprisingly flexible when compared to the limited ability of a thick sheet to bend without breaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-01-25T00:27:43.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13507" CreationDate="2022-01-25T00:37:36.333" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use anything, pretty much. I mean you wouldn't want to use &lt;em&gt;balsa&lt;/em&gt; but anything you'd typically find for sale in a lumber yard that you might consider making furniture from — including pine and even some types of spruce — will do you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking poplar might be a good choice&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Poplar is a good choice. It's often the go-to pick for paint-grade work because it's a fine-grained hardwood (so no issues with hard and soft growth rings you might get in a softwood), inexpensive, and available almost everywhere. And many consider it too unattractive to use unpainted anyway ^_^&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-01-25T00:37:36.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13507" CreationDate="2022-01-25T00:44:44.800" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you intend to paint it you can use whatever is cheapest. The caveat is the cheaper stuff is usually the softest (e.g pine, poplar, etc.) and isn't necessarily the pretty stuff. Although it's a matter of personal tastes and preferences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my part of the world, sassafrass is pretty cheap right now ($2.60/bf) and pretty good to work with. Where you are, there may be something similar that you can take advantage of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastActivityDate="2022-01-25T00:44:44.800" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13506" CreationDate="2022-01-25T09:48:35.750" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You maybe can use screws only to attach beams to plywood. 2 or 3 each, long and thick. But easier building and more security with exterior metal fixings such as these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h8nM4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h8nM4.png&quot; alt=&quot;truss shoe&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Truss shoe&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;joist shoe&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your design is complex, and uses much material. If you only seek means for pullups you can mount plates for use of pole or wood beam high in doorframe or hallway very easily:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wP8UR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wP8UR.png&quot; alt=&quot;door mount pullup bar&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LihTY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LihTY.png&quot; alt=&quot;Hallway mount&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Only side plates are permanent, pole or beam lifted out and stored elsewhere when not in use. &lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you see, these options use much less material, much faster to install and no floor space taken up permanently by aparatus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastActivityDate="2022-01-25T09:48:35.750" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13491" CreationDate="2022-01-27T03:07:13.907" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If this were mine, I would first clean the joint the best that I could. Chisel &amp;amp; mallet (gently!) or a paring chisel would do it. Go slow - doing more damage here isn't the idea. You want to make sure two things are accomplished:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You want that joint to close and stay closed (with clamps is fine). Make sure that anything that's in the way comes out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You want to make sure that the mating surfaces are as clean as possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Save whatever you take out of the joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd use hide glue to repair the joint. It works great for things like this - especially if there's any chance you're going to need to repair it again. PVA (yellow glue) tends to get brittle and is often stronger than the wood that it's holding. That means if there's enough stress, the glue won't flex - it will snap and you'll have another repair to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the joint is clean, get the hide glue in there and clamp the joint. You can clean up squeeze-out with warm water (another benefit of hide glue!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why did you save whatever you took out of the joint? If there's a gap when you close the joint, you can mix the dust (not chunks) with the glue to help hide the gaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11604" LastActivityDate="2022-01-27T03:07:13.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3430" CreationDate="2022-01-27T03:13:54.150" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I agree with most of what's been said, I think it really depends on what you're using. Right now, about 95% of my work is done with hand tools, so any dust that I make is usually in neat little piles. Shavings, however, go everywhere - but that's not a problem for a dust collection system. If you're using power tools, then a dust collection system makes more sense. ... or maybe you want to do more things by hand? ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11604" LastActivityDate="2022-01-27T03:13:54.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13516" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13520" CreationDate="2022-01-28T10:28:56.457" Score="1" ViewCount="1784" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider a minimalistic sliding panel saw in the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that anything you can do with a rip fence you can do better and safer using the sliding panel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jBJ36.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jBJ36.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Crosscuts: you wouldn't use the rip fence at all even in a standard table saw. You can however use the rip fence as a 'quick measuring' tool when you are cutting many pieces of the same width (in this case you would pull it back enough as not to overlap with the saw disc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rip cuts: with a sliding panel you can clamp down your piece to the sliding panel and calmly push the panel with one finger from far away. Using the rip fence, on the other hand, you would be fighting a lot of friction + the anxiety of keeping your piece snug against the fence + the anxiety of kickback due to poor pushing technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet again and again I see in many videos that guys with even more sophisticated sliding table saws inexplicably use the rip fence to make rip cuts. Why would they do it? To me, it looks awkward at best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Videos (&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/9AHMTuw_Ghg?t=125&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt;) and (&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/1mnb2HuH9Rw?t=403&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Sam3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Sam3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://youtu.be/9AHMTuw_Ghg?t=125&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qkO3I.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qkO3I.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://youtu.be/1mnb2HuH9Rw?t=403&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5579" LastActivityDate="2022-01-28T19:52:49.760" Title="When should you use the rip fence instead of the sliding panel on a table saw?" Tags="|technique|table-saw|rip-cut|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13517" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-28T11:16:31.437" Score="2" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am relatively new to wood carving and don't have anyone to mentor me or to ask advice from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am making a handle for a machete out of red oak. The bottom of the handle is hooked like a hanger and is a cobra head with the snake's tongue sticking out. The carbon looks great other than the fact that it just doesn't look finished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It still looks rough, especially in areas where the cuts are diagonal to the grain. Other than just using sandpaper with is blunting some of the corners and edges but I want to keep sharp, are there other ways which are better, specifically something I may be doing wrong in my chiseling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using Pfiel butt chisels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11630" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-01-28T13:44:11.287" LastActivityDate="2022-01-28T14:15:25.857" Title="What are some good ways to finish smoothing a wood carving after you have the general form roughed out?" Tags="|finishing|wood|technique|hand-tools|carving|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13517" CreationDate="2022-01-28T14:15:25.857" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both because you're new to carving and due to the results you're getting I'm going to presume you're relatively inexperienced in sharpening too, so the sharpness of your edges will most definitely have some bearing on what you're experiencing. Now, &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; variation between the surfaces created when you cut with and against the grain is perfectly normal and should be expected — especially with a coarser wood like red oak versus carving-friendly woods like fruitwoods and lime/basswood — but having your tools super-duper sharp will go a long way towards evening out the playing field so to speak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because it's such a cornerstone of hand-tool woodworking there are numerous previous Q&amp;amp;As here on various aspects of sharpening. But the two that are perhaps most directly relevant are:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/7011/how-often-should-i-sharpen/7014#7014&quot;&gt;How often should I sharpen?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3820/how-do-i-sharpen-curved-tools-like-gouges/3822#3822&quot;&gt;How do I sharpen curved tools like gouges?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rest is largely down to knowing various tricks (reading the grain, using shear cuts, riding the bevel) that help when you're carving specific shapes that either cross grain lines or go against the prevailing grain direction, which you'll find lots of guidance on in carving and whittling demos and books.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using Pfiel butt chisels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you bought a small/beginner set of these, or individually chose the typical starter choices people tend to pick, bear in mind you won't necessarily have every shape that would be most useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; generally do a lot with very few tools if you're willing to persevere and really learn the ins and outs of each one it does require some compromise. This is why, as a rule, you'll tend to find large to verrrrry large tool collections on the benches of experienced carvers. Relative to this, another previous Answer worth reading:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2755/what-tools-can-i-use-for-carving/2756#2756&quot;&gt;What tools can I use for carving&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; this is not to suggest you need to buy more chisels! But instead to encourage you to be willing to stick it out and do your utmost with the ones you have (along with a very sharp knife if you have one available).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than just using sandpaper with is blunting some of the corners and edges but I want to keep sharp&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a very very common issue with sanding, not at all confined to carving and other complex 3D shapes like gun stocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While gun stock are almost always sanded, it's actually very common &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; to sand carvings because of the extreme difficulty or outright impossibility of sanding into certain recesses by traditional means. So as much as possible carvers try to leave the surface &amp;quot;from the tool&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-01-28T14:15:25.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13516" CreationDate="2022-01-28T15:34:33.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is much quicker to just use the fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sliding panel is big and kind of awkward to set up by myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fence can handle material of any size, while the sled has a fixed dimension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11631" LastActivityDate="2022-01-28T15:34:33.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13516" CreationDate="2022-01-28T19:42:13.397" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet again and again I see in many videos that guys with even more sophisticated sliding table saws inexplicably use the rip fence to make rip cuts. Why would they do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually when you're ripping a board (i.e. cutting in the the same direction that the grain runs), you're cutting along the length of the board, and you're trying to cut it to a certain width. That's exactly what the rip fence is for: it's a reference surface that you can set any distance (within its range) from the blade. If you want the final workpiece to be 150 mm wide, you set the fence to 150 mm and use it as the reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sliding table has no such lengthwise reference surface, and if you try to clamp the board to the table and rip it to 150 mm, you're bound to be off by a bit, and the two edges of the board may not end up parallel. Also, the rip fence makes it easy to rip boards of any reasonable length, while even a large sliding table is limited to around 1600 mm (about 5 feet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the rip fence, on the other hand, you would be fighting a lot of friction + the anxiety of keeping your piece snug against the fence + the anxiety of kickback due to poor pushing technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's that difficult and/or stressful to rip a board with the rip fence, it's time to get your blade sharpened. Using a splitter or riving knife is an effective way to avoid kickback, and adding a featherboard can help further. If your saw has a riving knife, the only reason not to use it is that you've got a guard with splitter installed instead. Keeping the stock snug against the fence requires only gentle pressure -- there should be no forces pulling the workpiece away from the fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2022-01-28T19:52:49.760" LastActivityDate="2022-01-28T19:52:49.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13053" CreationDate="2022-01-28T20:52:28.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;ABS fittings will also do the trick. Parts needed are:&#xA;1 1/2 hub x hub coupling&#xA;1 1/2 - 1 1/4 spigot x slip joint trap adapter&#xA;Painters tape (optional)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See picture. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mKogm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CMOXf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11633" LastActivityDate="2022-01-28T20:52:28.440" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13522" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-28T20:56:20.623" Score="1" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is this &amp;quot;device&amp;quot; from Hunt Manufacturing Co. in Statesville NC used for? It is made of aluminum with a swivel part (for attaching to table, maybe)?&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5O2dR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5O2dR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11634" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2022-01-29T13:19:09.990" LastActivityDate="2022-01-29T13:19:09.990" Title="What is this &quot;device&quot; from Hunt Manufacturing Co. in Statesville NC used for?" Tags="|clamps|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2022-01-30T23:38:29.990" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13522" CreationDate="2022-01-28T21:19:32.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a hinge clamp meant to hold a silkscreen frame for printing. You'd screw the part with the two holes to a work surface, and you'd probably do the same with another clamp just like this one. Then you could insert a frame over which a silkscreen is stretched into the clamp part and tighten it down. That lets you flip the screen up and down so that you could make multiple prints in the same place with one screen. You'd likely also set up some guides to hold the paper (or whatever you're printing on) in place. And you might have several of these setups, one for each of several colors, so that the different colors register appropriately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I can tell, Hunt Manufacturing became the Speedball Corporation, which still sells clamps exactly like this one. Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dickblick.com/products/speedball-deluxe-hinge-clamps/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;listing on Blick.com&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mZk3N.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mZk3N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hinge clamp&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-01-28T21:19:32.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13524" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-28T23:38:13.890" Score="2" ViewCount="1110" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two years ago I sanded back my mid century table top and refinished with varathane water based polyurethane. I placed a 1 1/2 mm thick clear plastic protector over the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has produced what I presume is a chemical reaction and has completely removed the polyurethane from the table by causing it to stick to the underside of the plastic protector. See photos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7tp5W.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7tp5W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know if there are any remedies to melt the existing polyurethane to spread over the missing blotches without having to sand the finish off again. I had to sand quite a bit of the veneer top first time round and don’t think it will survive another sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11635" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2022-01-29T02:24:14.660" LastActivityDate="2022-01-29T08:35:52.257" Title="Re-finish water-based polyurethane tabletop without having to sand again" Tags="|finishing|polyurethane|refinishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13524" CreationDate="2022-01-29T08:35:52.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The image is much too small to see enough details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;any remedies to melt the existing polyurethane to spread over the missing blotches without having to sand the finish off again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. Only works with shellac and lacquer which remain soluble in original solvents. Because of this they also melt into new layers of same finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible you can apply new coats of polyurethane to table and white blotches will be filled. I do not think edges of blotches will be invisible but test in one area to see, maybe you will be lucky. If it works:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wash surface with warm soapy water, wipe dry. Rinse with cold clean water, wipe dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Let dry for some hours or overnight before next step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lightly sand entire surface with 320 grit so new polyurethane will bond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;apply fresh coats of polyurethane until you cannot see depressions of missing blotches. 2-4 coats?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Allow finish to dry until sanding produces white dust, 1-4 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sand surface flat with 320-400 grit backed with hard block. Do not oversand!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Complete with one more coat of polyurethane, all scratches will disappear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do not place plastic protector until finish has fully cured, 21-28 days!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to remove all Varathane you must use a paint stripper this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastActivityDate="2022-01-29T08:35:52.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13527" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13539" CreationDate="2022-01-29T19:43:10.490" Score="4" ViewCount="609" Body="&lt;p&gt;For some background:  I am a guitar player, and I know of a variety of different woods (&amp;quot;tone woods&amp;quot; as they're referred to in relation to guitar building), but I have absolutely no clue in terms of handling or finishing wood in a more raw state.  So please know that I am going into this small project with no experience, and please forgive me if I misuse any terms or make incorrect assumptions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a beautiful slab of Rosewood from an exotic wood shop near me.  I intend on sitting it on brackets to create a &amp;quot;floating&amp;quot; bookshelf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been told that the slab is unfinished, and, when I asked for suggestions, the store clerk who assisted me shrugged his shoulders and said &amp;quot;just grab some oil finish from Home Depot.&amp;quot;  A quick google search, however, led me to believe that I should be very careful.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.westfarthingwoodworks.com/23-common-wood-finishing-mistakes-for-beginners/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is one example of an article I saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently have a desk from Herman Miller that is built with Mahogany, and I love the finish on it.  It's smooth/dull/soft to the touch.  Visually, it is not polished and doesn't have much luster. If I run my finger along the desk, perpendicular to the grain, I can feel the grain of the wood as miniature, paper-thin valleys under my fingertips.  I treat it with Feed-N-Wax Wood Polish &amp;amp; Conditioner about once a month. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v9nKE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; are images of that mahogany.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure you can see where I'm going with this . . . I would like to apply whatever process necessary to have the new Rosewood I picked up match, tactically and visually, the Herman Miller desk.  Not just for the sake of matching, but because I love the way it feels and looks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FjZMW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; are images of the Rosewood slab.  Could you please give me your thoughts on this?  I want to treat the wood as respectfully and minimally as possible while still obtaining the effect i'm after.  Would this require a professional's help?  Is there any sanding or turning (I don't really know what turning is) that would need to take place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you so much.  This is my first post here, and i'm really looking forward to your responses!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y5iy2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; are some additional photos that might better show the grain of the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATED QUESTION/TL;DR:  How do I make the Rosewood feel and look the same as the mahogany?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE 2/18/2022:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rosewood has been professionally finished with shellac and beeswax.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EC2i6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The result&lt;/a&gt; looks and feels amazing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11640" LastEditorUserId="11640" LastEditDate="2022-02-19T04:59:04.877" LastActivityDate="2022-02-19T04:59:04.877" Title="How might I finish this hardwood board for use as a shelf?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13528" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13533" CreationDate="2022-01-30T02:00:18.660" Score="2" ViewCount="1476" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say your board is 33mm thick, and you want to have two 15mm boards instead (saw is 3mm thick). A friend told me that I have to use a bandsaw for this task but what if you only have a table saw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that something (or a very unlucky someone) will have to hold the board using a mere 15mm of the edge. I made the following jig that uses a fine-tooth saw blade to grip the less-than-half of the edge from one side and two screws to hold it from the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jIE4i.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jIE4i.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This solution works, but it is obviously not ideal since I have to remove the riving knife. Also, the piece tends to fall down the saw disc opening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a better solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for the great advice! I will dismantle the jig and use the rip fence with push sticks, zero clearance insert, feather board, and a non-protruding riving knife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5579" LastEditorUserId="5579" LastEditDate="2022-01-31T18:57:54.453" LastActivityDate="2022-02-02T18:50:52.800" Title="Resawing boards on the table saw, tips?" Tags="|technique|table-saw|jig|resawing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13530" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13531" CreationDate="2022-01-31T03:27:44.483" Score="6" ViewCount="1733" Body="&lt;p&gt;My budget and shop space aren't generous enough right now for a jointer, so I plan to do the best I can for edge jointing using my table saw. I know it isn't ideal, but it is what I've got to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What type of table saw blade would give me the best results for this usage scenario?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36" LastActivityDate="2022-01-31T15:16:46.437" Title="What type of table saw blade is best for jointing?" Tags="|joinery|table-saw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13530" CreationDate="2022-01-31T07:26:35.817" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jointing on table saw is rip cutting, so often I have read advice to use good rip blade. Many recommendations today to use high quality glue-line blades so jointing step can be skipped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this is not for all jointing, can only be skim cuts. I know many table saw owners use general blade for this because each pass is to remove very little material: 1-0.2mm (1/25&amp;quot;-1/100&amp;quot;). Teeth must be clean for good results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recommend you read general advice on choosing good blades to begin. Start &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/tools/essential-tablesaw-blades/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; in article by Tim Johnson on Popular Woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wwgoa.com/article/jointing-on-the-table-saw/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jointing on the table saw&lt;/a&gt; by George Vondriska on Woodworkers Guild of America recommends a thin kerf 40-tooth alternate top bevel blade, says it works great up to 3/4&amp;quot; but thicker than that and the results deteriorate. Suggest you also read responses below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think above page must be based on SawStop demo, because same images in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/how-to-use-table-saw-as-jointer/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wooworkers Journal article&lt;/a&gt; but text is different. Again suggest to read comments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much advice on table saw jointing can be found on YouTube. Videos available from Fine Woodworking, Pask Makes, 731 Woodworks, 3x3 Tamar and others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Please do not forget hand planes not obsolete for jointing!&lt;/strong&gt; While you are still reaching for ear protection before turning on table saw and dust collector hand plane user has already finished first edge :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Router also very good for this task.&lt;/strong&gt; My preferred method if using power tools to joint edges because much cheaper, faster setup?, better dust collection, edge quality superior, much safer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastActivityDate="2022-01-31T07:26:35.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13530" CreationDate="2022-01-31T15:16:46.437" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What type of table saw blade would give me the best results for this usage scenario?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any blade appropriate for ripping that gives a smooth cut is fine. If you have a rip blade, great. If you only have a combination blade, but it leaves a smooth surface, fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...I plan to do the best I can for edge jointing using my table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that there are at least two ways to do this. One is to use a jig with an offset similar to the difference between the infeed and outfeed tables on a jointer. This makes your saw work almost like a jointer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another common method plays to the strength of a table saw. When used for ripping, a table saw makes the cut edge parallel to the edge that rides along the rip fence. Therefore, if you attach the board to be jointed to a board or sled that has a straight edge, you can cut a straight edge on a board that doesn't have one. There are &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rockler.com/e-z-jointer-clamp-kit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;clamps made for this operation&lt;/a&gt; which join two boards edge to edge, or the board to be straightened can be clamped on top of the sled with toggle clamps. A nice thing about this method is that it works for boards of any thickness (up to the capacity of your saw, of course), and you can cut a straight edge in one pass. Even if you have a jointer, this is a useful method for boards that would need many passes on the jointer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-01-31T15:16:46.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13528" CreationDate="2022-01-31T17:38:53.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a better solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is one of those &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/13520/492&quot;&gt;cases where it makes more sense to use the rip fence&lt;/a&gt;. Your jig essentially re-creates a rip fence on your sliding table, but yours is set up so that the workpiece is fixed to the fence and the whole assembly moves over the blade. The problem of how to hold the workpiece goes away if you use the existing fixed rip fence; the workpiece is supported by the fence, and you slide the workpiece along the fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a list of tips for doing that safely in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/1417/492&quot;&gt;my answer&lt;/a&gt; to &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/q/1410/492&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Is it safe to resew on a table saw?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to continue using the jig you've built (I don't recommend that), you should, at the very least, add a cleat along the back edge. A large component of the force the blade exerts on the piece will be horizontal, pushing the workpiece backward toward you, the user. As is, the only thing resisting that force is the saw blade that holds the bottom of the workpiece. Adding a cleat at the back will at least resist that force and prevent the saw from firing the workpiece back at you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2022-01-31T17:53:35.253" LastActivityDate="2022-01-31T17:53:35.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13534" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13537" CreationDate="2022-02-01T12:31:04.227" Score="0" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a pluggable (fast assembly) way to join two plywood boards. I liked the method that the company Tylko uses. I wonder if parts for such joinery are freely available on the market. What is this type of joinery called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dWai4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dWai4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11651" LastEditorUserId="11651" LastEditDate="2022-02-02T11:52:30.243" LastActivityDate="2022-02-02T11:52:30.243" Title="Pluggable boards joinery" Tags="|joinery|plywood|knockdown|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13527" CreationDate="2022-02-01T14:45:32.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no better teacher than experience. Finishing isn't rocket science but some practice on a board that is less important will help you get a feel for what happens at each step of the process and it will help you know if the process you have followed will give you the result you desire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An easy finish to apply is a Danish oil and it does create a low luster finish. The process boils down to wiping or brushing on the oil and wiping off any excess. Here are the details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start with a silky surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start with an P80 grit sandpaper and then move to a 120 grit. This can be done by hand or with a random orbital sander.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wet down the surface with a little water to raise the grain and sand with a 220 grit sandpaper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Three coats creates a durable finish.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brush or wipe on the oil - there are several makers of Danish oil, I've had good success with the Watco brand. Flood the surface with oil then stand back and watch how it soaks in. Some areas of the wood will be thirstier than others and will soak up more finish. They will look duller than the rest of the surface. Reapply oil to these areas until they can't drink any more.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After about 30 minutes wipe the surface with a clean rag to remove any oil that remains.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then, for the next 30 minutes, check the surface periodically for dots of oil seeping back out. Wipe off any that you find.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The next day work the entire surface with 000 steel wool. After the steel wool rub wipe the surface with a clean rag to remove the dust.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The second and third coats go on like the first. Each coat needs a full day of drying time. After the third coat work the entire surface with a 0000 steel wool.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After the third coat is dry a coat of wax will give the wood a nice depth and feel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most finishing processes have similar steps with slight variations. Experimenting with this process on some scrap wood will allow you to gain experience and see how the finish will look before working on your expensive wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6222" LastEditorUserId="6222" LastEditDate="2022-02-01T17:00:12.173" LastActivityDate="2022-02-01T17:00:12.173" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13444" CreationDate="2022-02-01T17:50:40.097" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are other reasons why hide glue is the right glue to use here. In my mind, the biggest reasons are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hide glue is flexible. If something happens to the leg later, the glue won't be brittle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hide glue doesn't destroy the wood. By that, I mean that if you use yellow glue for something like this, the glue is often stronger than the wood. That means that if something happens to the leg, it's the wood that will give first and not the glue - then you'll really have a mess to fix.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hide glue is MUCH easier to clean up (warm water) and to fix mistakes that you've made (same thing).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found that for most serious applications, hide glue is almost magic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11604" LastActivityDate="2022-02-01T17:50:40.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13534" CreationDate="2022-02-01T17:57:05.040" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a pluggable (fast assembly) way to join two plywood boards... What is this type of joinery called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The general category of hardware that you're looking for is known as &lt;em&gt;knockdown connectors&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;KD hardware&lt;/em&gt;. Many different types are available depending on what you want to connect and what tools you have available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I liked the method that the company Tylko uses. I wonder if parts for such joinery are freely available on the market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The specific connector in the photo look like it's part of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://siso.dk/products/knock-down-fittings/kd-systems/invisio-kd-system&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;INVISO system&lt;/a&gt; from the Danish company &lt;a href=&quot;http://siso.dk/about&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SISO&lt;/a&gt;. Specifically, it looks like one of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://siso.dk/products/knock-down-fittings/kd-systems/invisio-kd-system/invisio-single-clip-4061--f-19mm-panel--non-locking&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;single clip&lt;/a&gt; panel connectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The web site doesn't display prices for these connectors, so it's not clear whether they're available for sale in small enough quantities to make sense for a typical home woodworker, but I expect you can buy them if you don't mind buying some minimum quantity. If that doesn't work out, there are lots of other connector systems that do pretty much the same thing. Anyone who has ever assembled an IKEA product will be familiar with &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07DLWC7RP&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cam lock fittings&lt;/a&gt; that work with shoulder screws to lock panels together. There are also some KD fittings that are meant to be used with the Festool Domino joiner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-02-01T17:57:05.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13538" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-02T01:16:57.207" Score="1" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built a couple dozen Blum &amp;quot;Tandem Plus&amp;quot; kitchen drawers many years ago (3/4&amp;quot; prefinished maple), with the grey metal sides and they were relatively easy to build and install.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now it's time to build a bunch of built-in vanity drawers and I planned on using Tandem Plus, but the parts seem to be much harder to find, plus I see a couple things that I like about the new Blum line, Legrabox.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't build cabinets very often and I'm curious if it's much of a leap in difficulty to switch to Blum Legrabox for this batch of drawers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blum recommends a jig for drilling the drawer pieces, but I don't think I'll need that since I'm using plywood. I didn't use any jig to build the Tandembox drawers. It seems like slide mounting would be similar. Building the drawers looks straight-forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't found any videos about mounting the runners for a DIY. I'm trying to avoid surprises.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11566" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2022-02-02T14:52:25.033" LastActivityDate="2022-02-02T14:52:25.033" Title="How difficult is it to go from Blum Tandem Plus to the Blum Legrabox drawer system for a DIY cabinet maker" Tags="|drawer|drawer-construction|hardware|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2022-02-03T20:47:40.327" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13527" CreationDate="2022-02-02T17:15:13.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this require a professional's help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although you could get a pro to help with this I believe the project is well within the grasp of a first-timer given the limited scope of what's needed here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is actually the preparatory stages are where most of the hands-on time and effort will be expended, by comparison the finishing steps (which you might possibly be more concerned with) require far less time, skill and effort to complete to a high standard.... finishing can be at core a simple process, it is only woodworkers who tend to unnecessarily complicate it :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Prep&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what we can see from the photos your board is flat enough (certainly sufficiently flat for a shelf) that it just needs to be smoothed off before finish application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do this final smoothing by sanding or scraping. While I would normally recommend scraping over sanding there's a learning curve to scraping and a few gotchas, so if you're going to do all the work yourself sanding is probably your best option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sanding&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Finish sanding is a process of progressively removing the scratches from the previous grit while keeping the surface flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing the existing texture was produced by 80 grit, so starting at 120 is appropriate and you'll go from there. You don't need to sand to a particularly high grit so the progression of sanding grits you can use is fairly short, e.g. 120, 150, 220.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can sand more finely than this (and many do, especially when power sanding) but beyond a certain point you see zero benefit after finish application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For just the one shelf you can do this work entirely by hand; back the paper&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; with a hard block and be careful not to 'lean over' when sanding near edges to maintain the flat surface and prevent unintentional rounding of crisp edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanding manually is a lot more work than with a random-orbit or other finish sander but for just one board it won't be too bad, and for a single project buying a power sander is arguably overkill. If you intend to do some future projects starting from bare wood however a sander does make more sense; although in that case I would strongly recommend you look into &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1134/what-are-the-differences-between-sanding-and-scraping/1159?r=SearchResults&amp;amp;s=1%7C36.3431#1159&quot;&gt;scraping&lt;/a&gt; as an option or at least an adjunct to sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Finishing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given your requirements for what you want it to look like you can use many common (traditional) finishing options as well as some modern products. I'm going to recommend three, in my approximate order of preference (please note that other people would order this list differently).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wiping varnish&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Everything you need to know to get started on this is in a previous Answer, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5891/how-to-fix-very-light-scratches-in-polyurethane-finish/5893#5893&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; in an excerpt from &lt;strong&gt;Flexner on Finishing&lt;/strong&gt; by Bob Flexner. In recent years wiping varnish has, understandably, become a very popular finishing option amongst amateurs and pros alike because it's nearly impossible to screw up. As a result there is tons more guidance available on this online if you feel you need to read or see more to get comfortable with the process before you try it for yourself. But I promise this is literally as easy as it seems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wiping varnish has one chief advantage over competitive wipe-on finishes such as &amp;quot;Scandinavian oil&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Danish oil&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Tung Oil Finish&amp;quot; (which are all basically the same&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;) in that it will dry hard through and through. It can be applied in &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; the same manner while providing more protection, although admittedly you're unlikely to need the extra protection for a shelf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you're finishing just one board for now and you'll be diluting at least 1:1, possibly as much as 1:3, only a small can will be needed. Don't forget to buy mineral spirits as well :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lacquer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;There's a good chance that your Herman Miller piece is finished in lacquer as it was the primary commercial finish through much of the second half of the 20th century — almost all MCM furniture has lacquer on it if still bearing their original finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't mean you need to use lacquer to match the look and feel however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many finishes are approximately equal in looks once fully dried, in fact the blended finishes mentioned above were originally formulated to match the lacquer finish on imported Scandi furniture!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because you don't have spray equipment you're looking at rattle-can versions. This is in general an expensive way to buy any finish, but for a one-off it makes sense. In the US there are many brands (Deft, Mohawk, Rust-Oleum, ReRanch, Minwax to name a few) &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; different types on the market, so you'll need to do some shopping around if you want to go with lacquer. As long as you get an untinted or clear lacquer it doesn't matter hugely what type you get as far as final looks go, but an acrylic lacquer should be lower or low in VOCs making it a bit more user-friendly than some others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spraying a uniform coat is not rocket science but can take a couple of tries to get the knack. I suggest you use the underside to practice on. Don't fret if you get bad results, lacquers can be wiped off when fresh using solvent, or sanded off after drying if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A modern wax/oil finish&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I wouldn't normally plug just one product but I'm going to specifically refer to Rubio Monocoat here. I don't use it myself and have no affiliation, this is based on the opinions of a few woodworkers I trust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Monocoat seems to consistently perform, to live up to its hype.... in strong contrast to one or two competitor products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is incredibly easy to use, honestly even easier than wiping varnish. As you might expect the name refers to the fact that the manufacturer instructions are to apply just the one coat, but, numerous users report that they get a better-looking and more consistent finish by applying a second coat. So one or two coats and done, with an easy-as-pie application method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So where's the downside? Depending on what you're used to paying for finish you might experience, ah, 'some' sticker shock — RRP for a smallish can is 70 bucks, versus $30-60 &lt;em&gt;for nearly three times as much&lt;/em&gt; polyurethane&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt; O_O&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional point:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I treat it with Feed-N-Wax Wood Polish &amp;amp; Conditioner about once a month.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't need to polish a wooden surface anything like this often except for high-traffic items that see a lot of abrasion, or if using a product that wears off too easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a hard finish in good condition you might only wax once a year, if that. Regular dusting and the occasional wipe with a damp cloth &lt;em&gt;if needed&lt;/em&gt; is all that the bulk of furniture needs, with very occasional waxing for a modicum of added protection and for maintaining sheen (or adding back sheen lost to wear and cleaning).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A simple paste wax like the venerable Johnson's product is generally to be preferred for this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Paper is a shorthand here, &amp;quot;sandpaper&amp;quot; now commonly means actual sandpaper as well as film-backed, cloth-backed and screens-based abrasives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Also bear in mind the top, front edge and maybe both ends need to be sanded more smoothly. Depending on the final positioning of the shelf the bottom might only be sanded further as practice for sanding the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; They are some blend of varnish and oil, thinned down with additional spirits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt; Which if converted to wiping varnish will be extended to double to quadruple the volume!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-02-02T17:15:13.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13528" CreationDate="2022-02-02T18:50:52.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend told me that I have to use a bandsaw for this task but what if you only have a table saw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bandsawing has become the go-to method for resawing in modern times, and purpose-made blades are available for resawing. The bandsaw offers numerous advantages for the task: pressure is downwards, into the table, so there's no chance of kickback throwing the wood at the operator; cut depth can be large to very large; the kerf of bandsaw blades is significantly narrower than that of most rotary saw blades so you waste less wood&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But not everyone has a bandsaw of course and those who own a table saw will eventually consider doing it on that. As a result there is a lot of guidance to be found online on resawing on the table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are what I consider the basics in bullet-point form:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Resawing is a &lt;strong&gt;rip cut&lt;/strong&gt; and as such a rip blade is most appropriate on paper, but admittedly many people just use their general-purpose blade they use for just about every task. Thin-kerf blades will offer significantly less resistance when resawing thick and/or hard stock on lower-power table saws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Let the saw do the work&lt;/strong&gt;. Don't force the wood through the saw, &lt;em&gt;especially on deeper cuts&lt;/em&gt; and/or with harder species, just let the saw cut at its own pace. Sawing at a measured pace means you may inevitably leave some burn marks on one or both of the final boards, but the sawn surfaces need a fair amount of cleanup anyway so you're not adding unnecessarily to the post-sawing workload if slowing down yields more burns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use your &lt;strong&gt;riving knife or splitter&lt;/strong&gt;. If your saw doesn't have one, make one (see below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Vital&lt;/em&gt; to use a &lt;strong&gt;zero-clearance insert&lt;/strong&gt; if sawing thin stock. If your saw doesn't have one, make one! If your saw doesn't have an in-built splitter take the opportunity to &lt;a href=&quot;https://static.onecms.io/wp-content/uploads/sites/49/2016/06/14/012209_saferesaw1.jpg09.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;add one&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a &lt;strong&gt;tall fence&lt;/strong&gt;; fit an auxiliary board to your existing fence if necessary. The fence does not have to be taller than the stock being sawn, but it should be tall enough that it provides good registration for the height of the board upright on its edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use one or more &lt;strong&gt;featherboards&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;other pressure devices&lt;/strong&gt; to keep the stock against the fence, helping to yield an even cut. This can be as simple as &lt;a href=&quot;https://byscottie.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/resawing-lumber-5-768x1024.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a board clamped to the bed of the saw&lt;/a&gt; as long as you make sure it doesn't pinch the workpiece on the exit side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Before you resaw it's important to &lt;strong&gt;prep your wood&lt;/strong&gt;. Ideally all wood to be resawn should be four-squared already. And it's often said that the wood being processed must be all the same thickness, but while this is desirable it &lt;em&gt;isn't&lt;/em&gt; absolutely necessary — one face is run against the fence even with boards too wide to split with a single pass, so it is the spacing from fence to blade which ensures the keeper piece will be a consistent thickness, regardless of the thickness of the starting boards (just remember that adjustment of pressure devices might be needed from one board to the next).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use &lt;strong&gt;push sticks&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;push blocks&lt;/strong&gt; to control the board and provide downward pressure on the stock as it passes over the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To echo a point made above in the Comments, you'll have no difficulty finding people resawing on the table saw who aren't following some or many these guidelines :-(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some links for further info and to see the process in action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodcraft.com/media/W1siZiIsIjIwMTcvMDcvMjEvMTQvMDkvMjEvNjUvNzZfSmV3ZWxyeV9DaGVzdF9SZXNhd2luZ19hdF90aGVfVGFibGVzYXcucGRmIl1d/76_Jewelry-Chest_Resawing-at-the-Tablesaw.pdf?sha=17a8f02da63cf79c&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Resawing at the Tablesaw; It’s often the perfect tool for the job&lt;/a&gt; on Woodcraft Magazine's site (PDF).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wwgoa.com/article/workaround-table-saw-resawing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Use your table saw instead of resawing with your bandsaw&lt;/a&gt; on WWGOA website.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.com/books?id=iMIYwzSRcp0C&amp;amp;pg=PA50#v=onepage&amp;amp;q&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Resawing on the Table Saw&lt;/a&gt; from &lt;strong&gt;Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking, vol 1&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On YouTube:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8V3h7SnrTpk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Safest way to Resaw on a Tablesaw&lt;/a&gt; by A Canadian Woodworker.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=spotCL6y_7c&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Resawing On Your SawStop Table Saw&lt;/a&gt; from SawStop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Honourable mention for resawing by hand, at least sometimes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;As most guides show, if your board is too wide you need to saw through the 'web' in between the two saw channels. Although paradoxically some use a bandsaw for this the standard way this is shown is to cut it with a hand saw. This gives an entre to doing the whole task manually — with a suitable saw&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; it isn't so much effort that you should dismiss doing it that way, except in very hard wood and very wide boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being able to resaw by hand is a useful skill to have for when the table saw it out of action, the power is out and you need to get the job done or you're somewhere where there isn't any electricity. Or maybe you just need to do it quietly so as not to wake the neighbours or family!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See page in Tage Frid's book immediately above the one linked to above for some starter advice on doing this. There is now lots of guidance on this online now with the resurgence in interest in hand-tool woodworking for further tips and tricks if interested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; This may not seem that important if splitting e.g. an 8/4 (50mm) board into two and you're happy to get two 3/4&amp;quot; (18mm) boards out of it, but it can be a vital consideration when starting with thin stock and you want the final pieces to be as thick as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; A Continental frame saw is arguably the best tool for the job, although it can be done with efficiency and accuracy with a traditional English or American rip saw with a low tooth count. Although not made specifically for ripping one of the better modern panel saws with impulse-hardened teeth (e.g the Predators from S&amp;amp;J) can do the job reasonably efficiently and are far easier to acquire, plus they come ready to use and super-sharp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-02-02T18:50:52.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13527" CreationDate="2022-02-03T00:03:20.257" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found that a hand-planed surface can be smoother than almost anything produced with sandpaper. After all, planing cuts the wood; sanding grinds them. If you have a sharp smoothing plane, there you go - no sanding needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you aren't going the hand-planing route, then I would encourage you to clean up your board between each sanding with either a shop vac, a tack cloth, or both. Yes, it's an extra step; I've found it helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also consider shellac as your finish. It's very easy to mix up (you SHOULD mix your own) and you can get super-blonde shellac that won't contribute much to the final color (I'm assuming you like the color). Secondly, shellac gives a decent amount of protection against most &amp;quot;general shelf use-type stuff.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ask a group of &lt;em&gt;n&lt;/em&gt; woodworkers how to finish something and you'll end up with at least &lt;em&gt;n + 1&lt;/em&gt; answers...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11604" LastActivityDate="2022-02-03T00:03:20.257" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13542" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13544" CreationDate="2022-02-03T02:16:10.543" Score="6" ViewCount="3070" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently doing a TV stand, pretty new to woodworking. And I was wondering if this would be able to hold the weight of the TV + soundbar? Let's say 40 kg / 88 pounds. The TV base is about 99 cm/39.3 inches wide 25 cm/9.9 inches depth.&#xA;The TV stand is made using 3/4 inches birch plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a rough sketch of it.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1C7BF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Look from the front&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1C7BF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sketch look from the front&quot; title=&quot;Look from the front&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So basically 2 meters wide, 56 cm tall (+ legs). Supported by 5 walls: edges, middle, and 2 walls 40 cm away from the center. (As seen in the picture). The walls are 3/4 thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edge wall - - 60 cm - - Wall - - 40 cm - - Center wall - - 40 cm - - Wall - - 60 cm - - Edge wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edge wall - - 23.625 in - - Wall - - 15.75 in - - Center wall - - 15.75 in - - Wall - - 23.625 in - - Edge wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything, except the legs is 3/4 in birch plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The legs are just mostly for looks. They are wood planks, 8.8 cm/3.46 wide, about 2 inches tall. They are going to be distributed like this.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rzSQj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Look from below&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rzSQj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sketch look from below&quot; title=&quot;Look from below&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And at the top we are also using some screws to secure the walls in place (and glue). 5 screws by wall, separated by 10 cm/ 3.94 in along the &amp;quot;wall&amp;quot;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kUaio.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Look from above&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kUaio.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sketch look from above&quot; title=&quot;Look from above&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been wondering if this is going to withstand the load...  I'm going to use some bricks to test the load once the tv stand is done and wait a week or two, just to be safe. But what do you think?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11662" LastEditorUserId="11662" LastEditDate="2022-02-03T02:28:24.003" LastActivityDate="2022-02-04T04:11:24.617" Title="Would this TV stand made almost entirely of 3/4 in birch plywood withstand the load?" Tags="|plywood|weight-capacity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13542" CreationDate="2022-02-03T13:23:32.890" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;3/4&amp;quot; plywood is VERY strong.  I have some on a shelf in my shed holding my turning wood, I used full 4'x8' sheets and I have several hundred pounds on it.  no dipping.  I also have some 1/2&amp;quot; plywood on 32&amp;quot; wide shelves and it does a pretty good job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes.  A top only 19&amp;quot; wide with even less support than you are planning would have no problems with a an 88 lbs TV.  It should look pretty nice when you are done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2022-02-03T13:23:32.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13542" CreationDate="2022-02-03T13:23:57.133" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you build this right I think you could safely park a motorcycle on top of it. And no, I'm not exaggerating. A (very large apparently!) TV and soundbar should not pose any risk whatsoever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As already mentioned in the Comments 3/4&amp;quot; / 18mm birch ply is strong, assuming it is decent quality very very strong. And glue-and-screws construction is also a strong and reliable way of putting together plywood projects. So you're lining yourself up for success already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, in case you're not aware, the back can add a very significant strength component to cabinetry. By fixing firmly to a back panel (even a relatively thin one) you effectively lock the entire shape which prevents racking, barring the fasteners snapping, tearing free or ripping out chunks of plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-02-03T13:23:57.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13545" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13547" CreationDate="2022-02-03T16:52:28.990" Score="3" ViewCount="2860" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently working on staining a 10' walnut butcher block counter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VhIWb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VhIWb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have done a lot to get everything together:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Surface prep: sand at 320 grit using orbital, wipe using rubbing alcohol to remove wood dust, repeat until smooth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pre-stain wood conditioner: stir well, apply using foam brush, wipe using dry rag to remove excess, wait a few minutes, wipe with wet rag, wipe with dry rag.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sand after pre-stain at 320 grit using orbital&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, something really awful happened when I started sanding after conditioning:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kcojs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kcojs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently some of the wood conditioner was left over, and turned into this tough syrupy residue, and sanding it simply spread it out and hardened it, leaving chunks of it all over the counter. To remove it, I had to sand and wipe with rubbing alcohol many, many times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I did the pre-stain on the other side, I was careful to wipe away all the excess and really make sure that nothing remained on the surface. I also hand-sanded with a 240 hand sanding sponge, wiped with rubbing alcohol, and then went to sand with my orbital at 320.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hand sanding did not reveal any gunk, so I felt that I could proceed with the orbital. Unfortunately, yet again, gunk was left over, and I found this stuff on my sanding pad and on the counter surface again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to work on removing this stuff using the sand/rub loop again today, and then the next goal is to actually apply the stain. I fear that I might run into the same issue with the stain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What did I do wrong here? And what can I do better to avoid this while applying the actual stain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the pre-stain, stain, and seal (not in order pictured) that I was planning on using:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TlmBe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TlmBe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I didn't need to spend a couple days using pre-stain because I'm working with walnut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The high speed of the sander caused the conditioner to heat up and build residue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Between applying the pre-stain to the bottom of the counter and sanding, I waited 48 hours. Between the pre-stain application to the top and sanding, I waited 20 minutes as per the instructions on the can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have made &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EdDJZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;an Imgur album&lt;/a&gt; with pictures of the labels on the various items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I appear to have gotten a lot wrong here, I'm not sure how to proceed. I can clean up the rest of the wood conditioner with alcohol and sanding, and I am not sure what to do next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I should use a lower grit sandpaper, what grit should I use? I have everything from 40 to 320.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I use the lower grit to prepare the surface for staining?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I obtain and use mineral spirits instead of rubbing alcohol for clean-up?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm feeling a bit shaken as I did a fair bit of research on this, and this project in particular has taken a very long time to realize. Surface prep on one side to 320 was accomplished with three passes; surface prep on the other side took around 10 passes; cleaning up the residue took probably around 5 passes; hopefully cleaning the top will be easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My goal is a dark walnut shade and a satin finish, definitely not glossy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for being such a welcoming community!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11666" LastEditorUserId="11666" LastEditDate="2022-02-03T19:49:03.753" LastActivityDate="2024-03-23T15:34:33.170" Title="Dealing with Pre-Stain and Wood Conditioner Residue" Tags="|finishing|staining|surface-preparation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13545" CreationDate="2022-02-03T18:11:47.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm sure Graphus will correct me if I'm wrong but I think your big problem is sanding after prestaining.  with an oil based prestain, there is no need to sand, and a water based one, you just are 'knocking down' the grain that stands up after drying.  The prestain is basically the last step before you stain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have all your sanding done, prestain, if it is water based a light hand sanding with a sand paper, (220 or 320) and then go into the stain.  The prestain's job is to fill in pores in the wood to 'even out' the stain absorption, so all the 'gunk' you find is the prestain itself, clumping instead of being dust, probably somewhat from the heat.  So less sanding will get you where you want to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could be wrong but I also don't think walnut is a wood that generally needs a pre stain either.  I suspect you'd probably be happy without it.  But since I usually like the 'natural' look and use clear finishes...  You can always try doing some of this on the bottom of the piece where it won't be seen to see if you like it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2022-02-03T18:11:47.757" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13545" CreationDate="2022-02-03T18:35:11.937" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK first off, hate to break it to you but you could have avoided so much extra time and effort here — you didn't even need to use &amp;quot;pre-stain&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;wood conditioner&amp;quot; :-(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are to help prevent blotching &lt;em&gt;in blotch-prone woods&lt;/em&gt;, and walnut isn't one of those. Therefore it doesn't call for any special pre-staining preparatory steps other sanding to an appropriate grit (more on this below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently some of the wood conditioner was left over, and turned into this tough syrupy residue&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pre-stain products or &amp;quot;wood conditioners&amp;quot; are nothing more than highly-thinned finish. I think it's the case that you just didn't wait long enough for it to harden before you started power sanding. This generates significant heat from friction, so you got &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1876/what-are-these-brown-spots-on-my-sandpaper/1878?r=SearchResults&amp;amp;s=1%7C23.8738#1878&quot;&gt;corning&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;320 is too fine&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Conventional stains require, that is they work best, when the wood is sanded &lt;em&gt;more coarsely&lt;/em&gt;, not more finely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The prep instructions for your stain should mention something about this if you check. And any &lt;em&gt;reliable&lt;/em&gt; finishing guide should cover this, with examples, so you can see the differing results of sanding to an appropriate grit (which is much coarser than most people think) and sanding more finely where the wood ends up considerably lighter. The finer you sand the less colour you'll get from your stain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I say this is particularly with conventional stains but is true to some degree with &amp;quot;gel stain&amp;quot; as well (depending somewhat on the application method, number of coats etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-02-03T18:35:11.937" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13548" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13551" CreationDate="2022-02-03T21:21:42.197" Score="2" ViewCount="1347" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EdDJZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;an Imgur album&lt;/a&gt; containing info on the oil-based stain instructions for the stain that I am using:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LWLMJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It specifically says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do NOT sand between coats.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm reading an article &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/c/ah/how-to-stain-butcher-block/9ba683603be9fa5395fab901ec2d925e&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;on Home Depot's website&lt;/a&gt; which states the opposite:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Begin by staining the entire top and sides of the butcher block. Wipe away any excess with a rag. Let dry. If you live in a humid climate, work with air conditioning to keep the humidity away during drying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the stain is dry, &lt;strong&gt;lightly sand&lt;/strong&gt; with a piece of brown paper to remove any slight blemishes. &lt;strong&gt;Repeat staining and sanding&lt;/strong&gt; about six times to achieve the depth of color that you desire. If the color is duller than you like, adding a sealer will brighten the finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 10' walnut butcher block (which I now know is not really butcher block) counter that I will be staining:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PuYKj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PuYKj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Should I sand between stain coats or not?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11666" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-02-06T12:24:53.117" LastActivityDate="2022-02-06T12:31:17.963" Title="Should I sand after applying oil-based stain to walnut countertop material?" Tags="|staining|sanding|stave-construction|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13548" CreationDate="2022-02-04T05:20:40.377" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, generally you don't &lt;em&gt;sand&lt;/em&gt; after applying this type of stain&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soon as I read Home Depot I was ready to criticise the instructions&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; but &lt;em&gt;the highlighted portion&lt;/em&gt; isn't terrible&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;. They just shouldn't be calling rubbing with brown paper sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recommended procedure relies on the very modest abrasive property of brown paper. Brown paper (Kraft paper) is now quite commonly used in finishing to 'de-nib' dried finish surfaces, with minimal or no risk of scratches; I've been using this trick myself for a few years now, since reading about it in something written by Bob Flexner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; This is because oil-based stains sit more on the surface of wood than being absorbed, as is the case with dye stains. Even with dye stains, which do genuinely &lt;em&gt;stain&lt;/em&gt; the wood in the literal sense (so the colour is IN the wood not ON the wood), if you sand you do so very lightly and cautiously using fairly fine paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Because, what do they know? They're just a vendor. And, well, they don't even know what butcher block is LOL But more seriously, I would never assume any electrical, building or finishing advice from HD, Lowe's (or any equivalent) could be relied upon. Could be good, could be so-so, could be bad. Always a good idea to cross-check with a reliable, specialist, source just in case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; However, there's plenty of &lt;em&gt;meh&lt;/em&gt; elsewhere on that page and some outright bad advice. They're not entirely to blame since Minwax's &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.minwax.com/wood-products/stains/minwax-wood-finish#directions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;own directions&lt;/a&gt; are dreadful (no surprise there) and the majority of experienced finishers would have multiple points of criticism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-02-06T12:31:17.963" LastActivityDate="2022-02-06T12:31:17.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13552" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-04T09:40:32.470" Score="2" ViewCount="293" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to reduce depth of this wooden box using hand tools only (I don't have any woodworking facility, like electric tools)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to remove the area outlined in red. The box is a wine bottle container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it more practical to take the nails out and cut each side separately or cut through the box in one piece?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2NbR1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2NbR1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The tools I have, for this purpose, are a hand saw, hacksaw, hammer and chisel. I would be willing to purchase other tools within reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I want to use the item to cover a grate to stop noise coming through from outside. It currently can be positioned over the grate as the grate sticks out a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uKhB1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uKhB1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Si9ZO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Si9ZO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11671" LastEditorUserId="11671" LastEditDate="2022-02-04T14:37:07.537" LastActivityDate="2022-02-04T14:37:07.537" Title="Best way to reduce the depth of this wooden box with hand tools?" Tags="|wood|hand-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13552" CreationDate="2022-02-04T13:39:41.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well the simplest way is with a hand saw, there are many different designs and qualities available.  Many under $50.  A hand saw could do the job while the box is assembled or taken apart and each side cut independently.  to make a nice straight cut takes a little practice using a hand saw but even a novice can make it happen.  You can sand the cut after your done to clean it up.  or if you want to up your game just a little you can try using a hand plane to clean up you wavy cutting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As jdv pointed out in the comments, cutting it there you will only have 1 nail left on each corner, so you might want to reinforce those with 1 or 2 more nails on each (depending on planned use for the box).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The super cheap and 'easy' way to do it but the finish will be debatable, is to take it apart, score each side deeply with a box cutter (and a straight edge) and then, over a counter, snap it off, these look like fairly thin boards with pretty straight grain so it should work, kind of like cutting drywall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in order of recommendations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Table saw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Skill saw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hand saw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Something else&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;....&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;box cutter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2022-02-04T13:39:41.250" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13554" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13555" CreationDate="2022-02-05T18:46:59.873" Score="2" ViewCount="188" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fine-tools.com/juuma-planes.html#ziel300050&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;decent block plane&lt;/a&gt; (low angle, adjustable mouth, good quality all-around).&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vVk7m.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vVk7m.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just saw a Veritas #1 &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fine-tools.com/veritas-flachwinkel-putzhobel.html#ziel308970&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bevel-up smoother plane&lt;/a&gt; which seems to be similar in size and was thinking if it would make sense to buy one or not...&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OXtN6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OXtN6.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can it do something that the other one can't? I can't tell...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously there is some functional overlapping, I just don't want to have a... duplicate tool, so to speak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastEditorUserId="4942" LastEditDate="2022-02-05T18:57:33.747" LastActivityDate="2022-02-07T18:52:39.230" Title="Does it make sense to own a #1 if I already have a good block plane?" Tags="|hand-tools|plane|hand-planing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13554" CreationDate="2022-02-05T19:37:22.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I see this is not really a &amp;quot;no. 1&amp;quot; but merely a block plane with a rear handle. The overall dimensions and width of the iron back this up, especially since they chose to offer this as a bevel-up bench plane&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given this is a Veritas plane — so, automatically hugely overpriced over here (although not in the leagues of L-N, but still) — I think it only makes sense to get one of these if:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For any reason you find a block plane so difficult to control that you're already seeking a plane of approximately that size that isn't a block plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You don't own a block plane already and you want to get one of these &lt;em&gt;instead&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You want a bevel-up bench plane for a small child&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You're a completist and have to own every plane in the range. (No judgement, it's your money.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Which are really a solution in search of a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; And I would give a lot of additional thought into whether this is actually a good choice, given the proven track record of bevel-down planes with cap irons/chipbreakers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-02-05T19:37:22.813" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13556" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-06T06:59:22.067" Score="2" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w4bXe.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w4bXe.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;I want to build Shoji screen door and need to set a frame from lumber pine to hold the door.&#xA;Door width 5.5 meters(18 feet), height 2.5 meters (8.1 feet)&#xA;Between the left and right lumbers(blue ones) is a wall(concrete), above the upper lumber(Yellow) is air (the height of the room is 3.75 meters), the upper only supported by the left and right lumbers(blue ones).&#xA;I do have 6 meters long lumbers with 10x10cm or 15x15cm or 20x20cm or 25x25cm.&#xA;It's inside the house(above the yellow air, above the air roof, no snow :)), the only purpose of this construction is to hold the Shoji screen sliding doors.&#xA;The lumber is pieces of glued pine.&#xA;So, what is the lumber thinkness should I use? 10, 15, 20, 25 cm?&#xA;Thank u all, and sorry for lake of explanation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11677" LastEditorUserId="11677" LastEditDate="2022-02-09T13:35:52.900" LastActivityDate="2022-02-09T13:43:26.797" Title="Lumber thickness" Tags="|lumber|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13557" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2022-02-06T12:41:48.267" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This material allows the creation of panels of almost any size, while utilising what may previously have been scrap wood or offcuts. The short, narrow pieces that are cut can be called staves, hence stave construction. In addition, the numerous glue lines and random orientation of the staves will usually make for a very stable panel, often far more stable than if the same panel were made from fewer, wider boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NB: the term 'butcher block' has now almost completely overtaken this and other terms for the same material but that should be retained for true butcher-block construction, where the small pieces of wood are oriented so that the end grain creates the working surface (as in actual butcher's blocks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-02-06T12:41:48.267" LastActivityDate="2022-02-06T12:41:48.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13558" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2022-02-06T12:41:48.267" Score="0" Body="One term for a modern wood product created by glueing many narrower and shorter pieces of wood together." OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-02-06T12:41:48.267" LastActivityDate="2022-02-06T12:41:48.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13559" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2022-02-06T12:47:13.073" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although now commonly applied to panels made from many narrow and short strips of wood (or &lt;em&gt;staves&lt;/em&gt;) this term should be retained for its traditional meaning so there is never any confusion about what is being described.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-02-06T12:47:13.073" LastActivityDate="2022-02-06T12:47:13.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13560" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2022-02-06T12:47:13.073" Score="0" Body="Thick panels or blocks, large or small, made up of numerous (usually small) pieces of wood, oriented so that the end grain forms the working surface. As in traditional butcher's blocks." OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-02-06T12:47:13.073" LastActivityDate="2022-02-06T12:47:13.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13561" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13562" CreationDate="2022-02-07T00:21:38.667" Score="4" ViewCount="729" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently shopping for a table saw and am trying to decide between an American-style cabinet saw with a sliding miter table attachment (think like a Sawstop), and a European-style sliding table saw where the whole left table slides past the saw. One important thing that I would like to do on the machine is rip 4x8 sheet goods, like plywood, in half, into 2x8 sheets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By and large, I like what I have seen of the European-style saws. The assembly of the sliding table to the saw itself feels much more solid, and seems like it would make much more precise and repeatable cuts (not that I've differentially measured between two individual saws of the style) than the add-on sliding miters that are made by Sawstop or Harvey. However, I do not believe I could fit a full 8+ foot sliding table for ripping the sheets[1]. I'd be limited in size to something like a Minimax SC3, which has a 5'5&amp;quot; slide capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried to find YouTube videos that show someone ripping a full 8' sheet on one of these smaller saws, but all I could find was people with larger saws using the sliding table for the job. If you own one of these smaller sliding table saws, do you handle large sheet rip cuts on it? If so, how do you handle it? Do you, for example, lock down the sliding fence to handle the outfeed, and then push the sheet through against the rip fence like you were using an American-style cabinet saw? Do you do something else entirely here? Do you just not use the saw for this job?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I appreciate any information about any procedures you might use. Sometimes watching YouTube, it feels like everyone just has the gigantic saw for the job!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1] When I need to rip the full 8 feet, obviously I'll need 8 feet behind the blade, but I can open a roll-up door behind me to get the extra capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11683" LastActivityDate="2022-02-07T10:10:10.940" Title="Procedure for ripping 4x8 sheet goods on a smaller European slider table saw?" Tags="|table-saw|rip-cut|panel-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13561" CreationDate="2022-02-07T10:10:10.940" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Frame challenge:&lt;/strong&gt; I think a strong argument can be made that this is a job better done by other means.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These days the primary other means are a circular saw run against some form of straightedge (or a more formal jig made for the purpose) or a commercial track saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These allow for the type of cut you intend to do to be made in a more consistently safe way&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, with sufficient accuracy for most purposes&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; plus reducing the amount of lifting and manoeuvring of full sheets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In support of the theoretical arguments is this:&#xA;many owners of table saws made some form of DIY track saw, and in later years bought commercial track saws as their availability and popularity grew, specifically because of how difficult,  tricky or just plain tiring long cuts on sheet goods can be when tackled on the table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their reasons may vary, but the wide adoption of the method speaks volumes for which is preferable &lt;em&gt;to owners of both tools&lt;/em&gt;. Some, including numerous pros, went on to use those exclusively/almost exclusively for initial breakdown cuts on sheet goods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few related Answers from previous Q&amp;amp;As:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5031/4x8-length-cut-circular-saw-table-saw-or-panel-saw/5046#5046&quot;&gt;4&amp;#39;x8&amp;#39; length cut - circular saw, table saw, or panel saw?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/13161/straight-cuts-in-plywood-without-a-circular-saw/13165#13165&quot;&gt;Straight cuts in plywood without a circular saw&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4948/how-can-i-accurately-cross-cut-a-board-that-is-too-wide-for-my-table-saw/4953#4953&quot;&gt;How can I accurately cross-cut a board that is too wide for my table saw?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/6875/cross-cutting-large-boards-4x8-stock/6886#6886&quot;&gt;Cross Cutting Large Boards (4x8) Stock?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I don't want to guide you specifically towards a track saw I did fell I should include this article on Family Handyman,&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/benefits-of-a-track-saw/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Benefits of a Track Saw&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;When I first laid eyes on a track saw, I thought, “I have a table saw. I have a straightedge to guide my circular saw. Why would I spend $500 (or more) on one of these contraptions?” I was sure it was another tool gimmick for suckers. Then I talked to track saw owners, from cabinetmakers and flooring installers to trim carpenters and remodelers. Every single one of them told me that buying a track saw was a smart move. Now I own one too.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; An understatement with conventional table saws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; High enough accuracy for &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; purpose if you buy the right track saw or take extra care in setting up your DIY equivalent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-02-07T10:10:10.940" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13554" CreationDate="2022-02-07T18:52:39.230" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can it do something that the other one can't?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the tote and front ball, this Veritas #1 is clearly set up for two-handed use, whereas a block plane is usually used with just one hand. Veritas also sells a tote and front ball that you can add to their low-angle block plane, and with those additions that plane would seem very similar to this #1, except for a slightly different bed angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Block planes are most often used for small jobs, like trimming end grain or chamfering an edge, which is why you can use them with just one hand. The Veritas #1 is described as a smooth plane, so it's intended to be used to take light cuts on the face of a board, often with the full width of the blade. Doing that well requires both hands and a good grip on the plane, hence the two handles. The Veritas #1 is arguably quite similar to a block plane with handles; even so, a block plane with handles is a somewhat different tool than a block plane without handles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just saw a Veritas #1 bevel-up smoother plane which seems to be similar in size and was thinking if it would make sense to buy one or not...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only you can decide whether buying one of these makes sense for you, but a good way to think about it is to think back on your recent projects. Do you use hand planes to smooth small boards? Have you often thought &amp;quot;This block plane is the perfect size, but I wish it were set up for two-handed use&amp;quot;? Would having this plane enable you to do something that you can't do now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another version of the same idea: you'll know it when you need a given tool; if you're wondering whether you need a tool, you probably don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-02-07T18:52:39.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13564" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-08T05:51:25.033" Score="2" ViewCount="3256" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am considering building garage shelves based upon a design I found online. The shelf will hold storage bins and boxes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the design plan:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DIY Garage Shelves [Freestanding] | Ana White&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ana-white.com/woodworking-projects/diy-garage-shelves-freestanding&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.ana-white.com/woodworking-projects/diy-garage-shelves-freestanding&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this plan have any obvious design flaws or other considerations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My shelf will be 15' long. I was thinking 3 legs, so both ends and one in the middle which would be at the halfway point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like this design because typical garage shelf designs I've seen have 2x4 frames with plywood shelves and the 2x4 frames end up taking up 3.5&amp;quot; of space that cut off the space you can use to put in boxes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for your input.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some photos from the design plans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4H0nt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4H0nt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZsJXh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZsJXh.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IhT4L.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IhT4L.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8007" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-02-08T19:17:51.597" LastActivityDate="2022-02-09T01:08:56.337" Title="Design considerations for garage storage shelf" Tags="|wood|design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13565" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13569" CreationDate="2022-02-08T06:27:40.400" Score="2" ViewCount="232" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a sliding panel table saw with the following safety element:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/816Izl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/816Izl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The user's manual says that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;this thingy is here to prevent kickback&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you can mount it either at the head or the back of the sliding panel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I did not find an English version, but that is all it says.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WJOkyl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WJOkyl.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In videos and on the manufacturer's pictures I see the item facing either the blade, or the operator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really cannot imagine how this thing can prevent kickback. Do you have any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@bowlturner The safety element is mounted on a sliding panel which in turn moves the piece against the blade. I did not have another photo, but I drew it on this one in red.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2FEHal.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2FEHal.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5579" LastEditorUserId="5579" LastEditDate="2022-02-08T16:04:50.910" LastActivityDate="2022-02-09T12:39:46.717" Title="How is this safety element going to prevent kickback on a sliding panel table saw?" Tags="|table-saw|safety|kickback|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13566" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-08T12:13:14.047" Score="1" ViewCount="85" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to create a custom (hallway) pull-up bar. Example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jcIjd.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jcIjd.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering what the best tool would be to create the notches?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of either a Hole Saw or a Jigsaw? Or do I need both?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sebastian&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11688" LastActivityDate="2022-02-09T12:44:42.353" Title="Best tool to create notches (custom pull-up bar)" Tags="|wood|power-tools|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13566" CreationDate="2022-02-08T12:54:54.890" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Theoretically you could do this entirely using a jigsaw, but generally notches of this type are created by drilling a hole and then sawing in from the edge to meet the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case it's not obvious the first step is to accurately mark out your notches and the positions of your mounting screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you're not using a jigsaw for the whole operation, the drilling can be done using various types of bit — the most common choices, in no particular order, would be flat bits (AKA spade bits), Forstner bits or a hole saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sawing can be done with any suitable hand saw, or using a jigsaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; both the drilling and sawing operations may tend to chip out wood from the exit side. There are ways to minimise this but you can instead plan ahead to have that face the one that mounts against the wall or door frame where it won't be seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll probably also want to have some sandpaper, or a couple of files, to clean up and smooth edges&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-02-08T12:54:54.890" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13564" CreationDate="2022-02-08T13:18:54.957" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Overall it's a good solid design and it's pretty common, other than often it's plywood for the shelving material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only have 1 concern, 7.5' of span is a long span not to have vertical supports.  even for 2x4s.  I think you'll get a lot of sag.  I suggest 1 of 2 different solutions, either have 2 sets of supports (every 5 feet) or turn the 2x4s 90 degrees if the 2x4s are standing on edge they won't sag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2022-02-08T13:18:54.957" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13565" CreationDate="2022-02-08T13:29:15.617" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't see how that would work to prevent kickback in any ripping operation (and obviously the riving knife is there to help with that&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm very much not sure but this could be intended for crosscutting. However, I think it's only of significant value when a workpiece is being held incorrectly (in the less-safe orientation) relative to the sliding table's backstop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related explanation in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1mnb2HuH9Rw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; Kuffys Woodwork video, from 11:09 onwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A general point, IMO all features of major power tools should be covered by the documentation. And I think it is a very large oversight&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; when a safety feature &lt;em&gt;that may save &lt;strong&gt;serious&lt;/strong&gt; injury&lt;/em&gt; is not explained or its use clearly illustrated in the manual or in an associated webpage/PDF document.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Just an observation, the fitted riving knife seems unusually tall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Bordering on criminal negligence!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-02-08T13:29:15.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13365" CreationDate="2022-02-08T15:05:40.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The spur (or nicker) is designed to cut wood fibers when planing across the grain (that is to say perpendicular to wood grain). So it needs to be sharp and it needs to be, at least, slightly longer (or deeper) than the depth of cut of the blade. With the spur cutting just a bit deeper than the blade, the wood fibers will cleanly cut away instead of ripping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When cutting with the grain, the spur isn't needed and can be rotated out of play. As a side note, if your tool doesn't have a spur, you can use a knife, box cutter, etc. to cut the line and then plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest you experiment with some scrap wood to see how this works and how the depth of cuts changes your ease of use of the plane and what ripped grain looks like when not using the spur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest a book, The Anarchist's Tool Chest by Schwarz for more information regarding planes and their use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastActivityDate="2022-02-08T15:05:40.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13564" CreationDate="2022-02-09T01:08:56.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are perfectly reasonable. So unless you have something &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; heavy to store on them they'll be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will almost certainly want to attach them to the wall for safety (and stiffness). If you don't you might want to consider diagonal members along the back (or commercial metal x-braces) to manage racking. Butt-joinery is fine except it won't handle racking forces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The single most important consideration is not the material or the overall design, though. It is feeling free to throw away the dimensions to fit whatever standard box you intent to store on it. There is nothing worse that having something like this and finding your standard &amp;quot;roughneck&amp;quot; or whatever you have chosen doesn't fit, or it fits but leaves a lot of unused shelf space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The picture shows that it was sized more or less for those pastel boxes, so unless you also have those pastel boxes, you ought to think about the shelf dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2022-02-09T01:08:56.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13572" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13585" CreationDate="2022-02-09T02:08:14.347" Score="7" ViewCount="4329" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a small door.  I have a frame that is glued and nailed together that is 1 inch thick shown here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cZAG1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cZAG1.png&quot; alt=&quot;Enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1/4&amp;quot; birch plywood will be glued to both sides of this.  The plan was to glue oversized pieces and then trim them to the frame.  The difficulty is that the longer edges of the frame are cut at a 3 degree angle so that the door will not snag on the jamb.  I can trim the plywood with a router on the short ends, but what is the best way to trim it to the angled edges?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In retrospect, I should have cut all the pieces square, done dowel joints or something similar so there are no nails in the way, put on the plywood skin, then trimmed the edges at the proper angle with a circular saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What I ended up doing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I up-voded all the answers because they all seem like sound advice to me.  Thank you, everyone.  The accepted answer most closely matches what I actually ended up doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I initially trimmed the plywood with my circular saw within a 16th of the desired edge with the intention of sanding it down flush.  I have a clamping cutting guide so I used that.  But then sanding was taking a very long time and I was afraid I would round off the door edge in the process so I trimmed it closer and noticed that the edge of the door was bowed in.  At that point I decided that fortune favors the bold and trimmed the full edge of the door, plywood faces, framing, and all, with my circular saw at 3 degrees.  Did it by creeping up on the right guide position with multiple cuts.  I have a nice fine-toothed blade on the saw so I saw no tear-out.  Nails didn't get in the way because they were already driven deep.  Worked pretty well but running over the door face 100 times with the saw left stains.  Not ideal but I plan on painting the doors anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes, I do have a preference for methods that involve 10 minutes of prep work and 10 seconds of actual cutting.  Thanks again!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11691" LastEditorUserId="11691" LastEditDate="2022-02-24T19:43:49.530" LastActivityDate="2022-02-24T19:43:49.530" Title="How can I trim plywood flush to an edge that is not 90 degrees?" Tags="|technique|plywood|router|door|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13572" CreationDate="2022-02-09T06:26:21.300" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a hand plane plywood edges are easy to plane. Size of plane does not matter, this can be done with block plane if this is only type available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without hand planes I would trim close with router, then remove the rest with hand sanding. Start with P60 grit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastActivityDate="2022-02-09T06:26:21.300" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13575" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13579" CreationDate="2022-02-09T08:48:49.320" Score="0" ViewCount="215" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to glue veneer on pine lumber wood 25x25 cm, is that possible? or the veneer will not hold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11677" LastActivityDate="2022-02-09T12:58:05.810" Title="Veneer on pine wood lumber 25CM" Tags="|veneer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13565" CreationDate="2022-02-09T12:39:46.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can mount it turned 180° so the ramp part faces the blade instead of you, I can see where you would place your wood just short of the blade then slide this piece against the back of the wood, &lt;em&gt;sort of&lt;/em&gt; clamping it or bracing it with this. If there is any kick back, the wood would rise up and hit the metal piece, stopping (one hopes) instead of continuing to fly back into your face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2022-02-09T12:39:46.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13566" CreationDate="2022-02-09T12:44:42.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the diameter of the bar, you could use a router to directly route the notches. Easy for upto 16mm, dont know how readily available larger diameters are. For larger diameters you could also create a template and use a templating bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Afterwards, like Graphus said, sandpaper to clean up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9713" LastActivityDate="2022-02-09T12:44:42.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13572" CreationDate="2022-02-09T12:51:56.523" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you cut the bevel on a table saw, just tip the blade 3° the other way, flip the frame over, raise the blade &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; high enough to cut through the plywood and be done with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you used your circular saw, tip it to 3° again, clamp a straight edge down to the top of the door skin, and again, set the blade &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; deep enough to cut through the plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have both the TS and circular saw, but the blade on one won't tip the opposite direction, use the &lt;em&gt;other&lt;/em&gt; tool to cut from the other (long) edge of the door so the tip angle matches up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both cases, I'd suggest cutting &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; proud of the frame by 1/16&amp;quot; or less (assuming the frame fit is exactly what you want now), and do a finish sand or plane to the final dimension. Not only will this give you a nice clean edge, but it will finalize the edge if there was any tearout on the plywood and will prevent you from cutting into the door if you don't get the blade alignment &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; in line with what it was when you cut the initial bevel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2022-02-09T17:02:25.540" LastActivityDate="2022-02-09T17:02:25.540" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13575" CreationDate="2022-02-09T12:58:05.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why wouldn't it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marquetry&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marquetry&lt;/a&gt; has been done for centuries and involves gluing hundreds or thousands of tiny slivers of veneer pieces to a larger surface to make a pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no reason a single larger sheet of veneer wouldn't stick to a 25 x 25cm piece of pine. The key is in the prep work, not in the size of the material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2022-02-09T12:58:05.810" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13556" CreationDate="2022-02-09T13:43:26.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since it is not a load bearing opening, and all it needs to do is hold the doors up a much smaller header would be required.  it is still a long gap to span and the doors will have some weight.  the 15x15 would probably do fine, but I would recommend bumping it up to the 20x20, and going with the 25x25 you certainly wouldn't be unhappy with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To recap, I think the 15x15 might just pass muster, at least for a little while but since you have bigger options ready, I would go with one of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2022-02-09T13:43:26.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13572" CreationDate="2022-02-09T14:54:21.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could screw an angled baseplate under you router and run this against an edge instead of using a flush trim bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a piece of plywood (slighly larger than your router base). Cut a hole in the middle for the bit. Cut one straight edge on the plywood base to run against a fence clamped to your door to prevent altering the angle. Screw the plywood base under the router. Use some wedges or distance rings on one side to get the angle. Might be a bit fiddly to get the proper angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9713" LastActivityDate="2022-02-09T14:54:21.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13572" CreationDate="2022-02-09T18:17:59.230" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can trim the plywood with a router on the short ends but what is the best way to trim it to the angled edges?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you want the plywood edge to be square to the face, or cut at the same 3° bevel that the sides have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want the edge trimmed square to the face, an easy way to do that is to temporarily attach another piece to the bottom of the rail, so that the edge is even with the line you want to trim to. You can use thin double-sided tape, a few dabs of hot glue, or a few brads. Or just clamp the frame to your workbench and use the edge of your bench if it's nice and straight. In any case, the idea is to just supply a straight edge to guide the bearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want the edge of the plywood to match the edge of the frame, you'll need to tilt your router. First, extend the line from the edge along the edge of the plywood face, so that you can see where the corner should be. Use your table saw to trim the panel to that width, so that the face of the plywood is the final size, and only the thickness of the plywood needs to be trimmed. Next, cut a strip 1/8&amp;quot; thick and at least as long as your frame from a piece of scrap. Set your router on the edge of the frame and put the strip under the base, about 2 3/8&amp;quot; from the edge, adjusting the position until the bit matches the angle of the edge, and secure the strip in place. Now the router will sit on the edge of the plywood and the edge of the strip, tilted the correct angle, and the bearing will ride on the edge of the frame and guide the cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-02-09T18:17:59.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13572" CreationDate="2022-02-10T01:06:55.493" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like the top will be less that 1/64” too proud if you just flush trim at 90 degrees instead of worrying about matching an angle etc...&#xA;0.25 inches rise with a 3 degree pitch gives about 0.0125 (1/80) of an inch for the run. So less than a third of a millimeter. I don’t think it’ll be visible or even physically interfering with the function based on those numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is somehow tight, sanding for maybe 2 minutes matching the structures frame angle of 3 degrees will get you there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11695" LastActivityDate="2022-02-10T01:06:55.493" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13572" CreationDate="2022-02-10T02:02:08.903" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using a circular saw is a good option and it's not as scary or difficult as you might think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, if not already done, punch any nail-heads below the surface. You can fill those later. Then, with your saw unplugged (or battery removed) and the guard raised, position the saw as if it were making the cut and set the blade angle by flushing it up with the edge of your frame.  This will give you an exact match, far better than trying to measure it and/or relying (guessing) that the scale on your saw is 100% accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All you have to do then is clamp a straightedge down on the work and use that as a guide to run your saw along. A 2m (6&amp;quot;) spirit level works well for this.  Get the distance you need to set the straight-edge back from your cut-line by measuring from edge of your saw base to the edge of a tooth on your saw blade using a combination square.  (Just make sure your saw is unplugged when you do this.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To avoid splintering the edge of your plywood, cut one side at a time and either make a very shallow first pass cut with the blade depth set to just score the surface or use a clamped straight-edge and a Stanley knife to score the cut-line prior to making your cut proper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take your time and you'll be fine.  It's a tried and tested method so just measure accurately and clamp your straight-edge down firmly, and you'll get a really professional look with crisp, flush, beveled edges - and no tearout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11696" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2022-02-10T23:54:41.863" LastActivityDate="2022-02-10T23:54:41.863" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13586" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-10T02:27:19.113" Score="0" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently came across a table my grandfather made about 50 years ago. Clearly hasn’t been stored properly but I would love to save it.  I’m not sure where to start or if it’s possible. Would love thoughts on if this is something an amateur can tackle or if I should enlist a professional?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ty4gP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ty4gP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vPClh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vPClh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11698" LastActivityDate="2022-02-10T15:41:10.723" Title="Is my grandfathers table repairable?" Tags="|wood-repair|butcher-block|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9984" CreationDate="2022-02-10T13:54:34.990" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2 possibilities for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;just cut out your piece like you normally would, then add a 'lip' around the edge of the hole underneath it, you would then be able to set the cut out piece back in the hole and it would sit flush with the rest of the counter top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cut at an angle all the way around, where the angle is toward the center of the piece.  (I'd say 30 degrees, maybe more).  When you are done, the 'angle' can hold the cutoff kind of like your 'step' cut, but can be done with 1 step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So those may answer how, but we still have a couple problems.  it all depends on what you want it to look like.  the first method will leave a small gap all the way around the piece from the curf of blade you use. there will also likely be the hole from the pilot hole you might need to drill to start the cutting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option 2 has similar issues, where option 1 will be even with the rest of the countertop, but have a visible gap, option 2 will hide the gap but will be obviously sunk a little below the rest of the counter, once again because of the curf of the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and with both of them, the edges will be dependent on the quality of the equipment you are using to make the cuts and the person using said equipement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2022-02-10T13:54:34.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13586" CreationDate="2022-02-10T15:41:10.723" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;We can see clearly from the second photo that the tabletop is made from multiple narrow boards and that due to water damage these have begun to separate at the top, from shrinkage and what's called &lt;em&gt;compression set&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth noting that the view of the underside shows us that not every joint has failed through the entire thickness so thanks for including that photo, it's very useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thoughts on if this is something an amateur can tackle or if I should enlist a professional?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't really tell us enough since 'an amateur' covers so much ground&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. As a result I was going to say in a Comment that we really can't answer this for you without much more detail, but, you can answer it for yourself relative to the following points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you want to make this completely solid then the minimum 'proper' fix is to take the top off, then separate every glue joints (yes, every single one).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then you need to re-joint the edges so you're starting from fresh, clean wood and so that the edges are all perpendicular to the top surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After jointing you'd glue this back together, which would typically require at least three long clamps and probably a handful of smaller clamps for clamping cauls. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/229/what-is-a-good-way-to-prevent-jointed-tabletops-from-bowing-when-tightening-fast/241#241&quot;&gt;previous Answer&lt;/a&gt; for how clamps are commonly alternated and the use of cauls.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; I've deliberately left out the resurfacing and refinishing since those steps, although a fair amount of additional work, are relatively straightforward by comparison. &lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the above sounds like something you aren't set up to do then you have your answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it sounds like I'm saying get a pro to do the work for you. But I would caution that a repair to this — as in re-building, resurfacing and refinishing the top — will likely cost a lot more than simply having a new top made. Only you can decide if saving the existing top is worth it to you, and it's worth noting that a new top opens up a wealth of possibilities for you in terms of thickness, wood species and attractive figure/grain (whether solid wood or veneered plywood), as well as varied edge profiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you are OK with replacing the top this brings the project back into the realm of something the beginner &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; do. You wouldn't need to build a new top since solid-wood countertop material&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; in a number of wood species, a range of widths and thicknesses is now widely available from lumber yards, home centres, some big-box stores, &lt;strike&gt;Ikea&lt;/strike&gt; [Gerton discontinued in 2021] and online sources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All you would need to do essentially is buy the material, saw it to length (if necessary&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;), do some light preparatory sanding and then apply your finish of choice. Many vendors offer a cutting service (often free for just one or two cuts) so you wouldn't even need to buy a saw and cut it yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; The majority of the members here are amateurs so this spans the range from total beginner with no tools yet to experienced woodworker with a well-equipped home workshop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Made from many shorter, narrow strips glued together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; There are a number of standard lengths, one of which could suit you already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-02-10T15:41:10.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13590" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-10T20:49:47.513" Score="4" ViewCount="1574" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is a pretty basic question but I am not able to get an answer over the internet. So my question is, how do you read a spirit level. I am talking about the Starrett Machinist Level (98-6 – 6 Inch Precision, 0.42 mm/m / 80-90 seconds Graduation and Sensitivity).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does 0.42mm/m mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11705" LastActivityDate="2022-02-11T23:05:15.687" Title="Spirit Level Reading" Tags="|hand-tools|tools|tool-maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13590" CreationDate="2022-02-10T21:08:48.417" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;From one of the resources on the internet, &lt;a href=&quot;https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2423&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Little Machine Shop&lt;/a&gt;, this bit of wisdom:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ljiBz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ljiBz.png&quot; alt=&quot;Machinist level&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These Starrett Machinist Levels have ground and graduated main vials, and a cross test vial. The 12&amp;quot; level also has a plumb vial. These vials are adjustable to a positive setting and are housed in a satin chrome brass tube with a friction-fit closing cover to prevent breakage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The base of the precision machinists level features an involute groove running the length of the base, which provides a reliable seat for round work such as pipes or shafting. With the cross test vial, it is possible to simultaneously level in both directions. This prevents inaccuracies in the main vial reading caused by canting the level sidewise on round work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main level vials have graduations that are approximately 80-90 seconds or .005&amp;quot; per foot (0.42 mm per meter). There are five, six, or seven lines on each side of the bubble, depending on the base length.&#xA;Starrett Machinist Levels are the finest levels available, used for precision work that is typically required in industry. They all have these features:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All level bases are made from the finest quality seasoned cast iron and are precision-machined on the reference surface. Nonmachined surfaces have an attractive, black wrinkle finish. An involute longitudinal groove between the bearing flats for accurate seating on round work. This groove has a special involute design, permitting better centering and greater capacity to handle larger rounds. Groove and bearing flats are machined together for maximum accuracy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have the bubble centered on the level, it's level within 5 thousandths of an inch over 12 inches, which is astonishing to my alleged mind. One bubble mark off and your reference becomes 10 thousandths of an inch over the same 12 inches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You asked about the 0.42 mm per meter, which is applied in the same manner. The distance is larger, one meter compared to one foot, and the corresponding precision figure is appropriately larger. I didn't perform the math, but I expect the two numbers are equivalent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 80-90 seconds reference is a measurement of degrees. 360 degrees per circle, 60 minutes per degree, 60 seconds per minute. Another astonishingly tiny reference, but machinists often work in tenths of a thousandths of an inch and require such precision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2022-02-11T23:05:15.687" LastActivityDate="2022-02-11T23:05:15.687" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13592" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13593" CreationDate="2022-02-11T02:24:49.730" Score="3" ViewCount="521" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen suggestions to us a router to joint edges of boards, and some answers here that mention it, but I don't seem to be able to get the necessary precision using a router and table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried using a router table and a unified fence, also with a split fence. Both did well for getting a nice right angle, but perfect straightness seemed just beyond my reach. Pushing the edges together revealed gaps where the glue is supposed to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some good ways to pull this off? How do I adjust the bit and split fence geometry to get a nice, glue-ready edge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastActivityDate="2022-02-11T05:20:36.683" Title="What are some techniques for jointing boards using a router table?" Tags="|router-table|milling|joints|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13592" CreationDate="2022-02-11T05:20:36.683" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do this using a router table and split fence if the left side is adjusted forward to precisely match the exposure of the router bit. The idea is to provide outfeed support &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; corresponding to the material removed, just like on a jointer, and similar methodology can be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same can be be done using a single-piece fence too simply by clamping on or applying some material (which can even be tape, in one or two layers, for the ghetto version) to the left side of the fence as described in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/routing/make-your-router-think-its-a-jointer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Make your router think it's a jointer&lt;/a&gt; on the Wood Magazine site. I think it's worth noting that this probably under-sells the ease of setup and you will need to run a couple of test pieces to really dial in the accuracy, as covered in the WWGOA's article &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wwgoa.com/article/edge-joint-on-a-router-table/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Edge Joint on a Router Table&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the method that I think is best overall matches the functionality of the following jig:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fwfdr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fwfdr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Router jointer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not immediately obvious what the advantage of this setup is, but in addition to ensuring a dead-straight result &lt;em&gt;it doesn't rely on the edge already being very straight&lt;/em&gt;. If necessary this could even be used to straighten a live/waney edge (in multiple passes!) if for some reason you can't saw the uneven edge off beforehand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image used previously in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2484/methods-of-jointing-without-a-jointer/2487#2487&quot;&gt;Methods of jointing without a jointer&lt;/a&gt; which is worth a look for anyone who doesn't have a jointer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-02-11T05:20:36.683" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3470" CreationDate="2022-02-11T11:10:10.307" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would assume you know this since you have made prior pipes. Just incase forest is clogging view of trees. Most pipe makers prebore the hole in the briar block using their lathe then shape the block to the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11711" LastActivityDate="2022-02-11T11:10:10.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13595" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-14T06:12:26.727" Score="0" ViewCount="145" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to recreate the weight rack shown in this photo and I'm curious how top A-frame like section and the section where the bottom of the 'A' meets the base are joined/fastened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iFHFG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iFHFG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11724" LastActivityDate="2022-02-15T01:15:14.643" Title="How is this weight rack joined or fastened?" Tags="|joinery|technique|design|miter-joint|fasteners|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13595" CreationDate="2022-02-14T14:14:50.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks pretty similar to &lt;a href=&quot;https://garagegymexperiment.com/2021/05/10/diy-weight-tree-tutorial/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this build&lt;/a&gt;.  He used pocket hole screws.  This could have been done with just screws or nails.  Based on the materials (common construction lumber), there isn't likely any fancy joinery going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2022-02-14T14:14:50.760" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13595" CreationDate="2022-02-14T14:21:20.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The top looks to be a half lap joint, possibly (probably!) reinforced with screws going straight through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom is unknowable from the picture, but if I was building it, I'd have a little bit of a lap to mechanically prevent the uprights from spreading and a few screws/glue to hold it in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: after much staring prompted by @Graphus, I'm reasonably sure I'm wrong. That said, I'll leave this up to suggest to someone building it that a half lap would be a good option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastEditorUserId="503" LastEditDate="2022-02-15T01:15:14.643" LastActivityDate="2022-02-15T01:15:14.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13598" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13601" CreationDate="2022-02-14T17:53:41.867" Score="0" ViewCount="648" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to edge joint boards without a jointer or a table saw....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a small router table with an 18&amp;quot; fence (Only 9&amp;quot; outfeed fence) which I tried to use with some jointing shims. I ran two boards through and the resulting edge was fairly flat but if I hold them up to a light I can see some gaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How flat is flat enough to edge join boards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that it might be a slightly different answer for each of the following.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plain Butt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tongue and Groove&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Doweled&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spline&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any numerical/measurement based specifications?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11729" LastActivityDate="2022-02-16T16:23:57.890" Title="Edge Joining: How flat is flat enough?" Tags="|joinery|jointer|joints|tolerance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13595" CreationDate="2022-02-14T17:59:05.357" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the full size image, the top of the frame is a simple butt joint. The left-hand upright dies into the right-hand upright which continues past it to form the point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see any sign of screws or dowels going through the right-hand upright or any sign of filler over a screw hole. I also don't see any sign of screw holes (filled or otherwise) on the inside of the joint in the left-hand upright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That leaves only some form of hidden joinery:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mortise &amp;amp; Tenon - with the mortise on the right-hand upright and the tenon on the left hand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dowels - holes in both uprights with dowels inserted into the holes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Biscuits - a couple of slots cut into the uprights with biscuits inserted to reinforce the joint&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glue - nothing but glue and faith holding it together. Glue is strong, but I'm not sure I'd rely on nothing but glue to support this kind of weight and abuse&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess would be doweled joints. They're reasonably easy and even easier if you have an alignment guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom joints could all be glued &amp;amp; screwed with the screws going up from the bottom to hide the heads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2022-02-14T17:59:05.357" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13598" CreationDate="2022-02-14T18:09:42.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;It depends&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the point of a good glue joint, is a good surface area that can be bonded together.  The more surface area the stronger the glue joint.  Where you can see light that is a weak spot that won't be bonding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it good enough?  What materials are you joining AND what kind of finish are you going for?  Those 'gaps' can be obvious on a finely finished table top, but maybe less on other works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like to get my joins with a clean line across the whole joint.  while this isn't needed for a good glue up job, having gaps that let light through I think is a too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you are doing a straight butt joint you might want to try harder to get a tight fit, you might be able to glue some sand paper down to a flat surface and run the boards like a plane over it, I assume a keyboard tray isn't going to be 3 or 4 feet long. So short enough for this to easily work. I am assuming that you are fairly close so a few passes on a 80-100 grit should flatten it up enough and then a few more with 150 and you should be good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2022-02-16T16:23:57.890" LastActivityDate="2022-02-16T16:23:57.890" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13598" CreationDate="2022-02-15T09:06:38.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't say how big gaps are but if they are small edges are already very close to straight so it is easy to improve them by planing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hold 2 boards together edge to edge to find high areas, mark them with pencil. Or chalk flat surface and rub board edges on it, chalk will mark high areas for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Plane off pencil or chalk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Have plane adjusted for fine cut and check progress often, maybe after every shaving. 3 shavings too much!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jointing by hand is easier with larger planes because of effect of long sole bridging gaps, but you can do it with your block plane. Work carefully to plane &lt;strong&gt;only marked areas&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How flat is flat enough to edge join boards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No visible gap is usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With plain glued joint small gap &lt;strong&gt;in center only&lt;/strong&gt; is acceptable, sometimes used deliberately. Uneven gaps and gap at ends of boards never acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2, 3, and 4 always made straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any numerical/measurement based specifications?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;|Some say yes, some say no. There is not a single number, it must be small enough that it can be closed by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;on short boards it must be very small.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can be bigger on long boards, maximum approx 1/32&amp;quot; (0,8mm). This is total gap, so curvature on each edge 1/64&amp;quot; (0,4mm) or less.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gap must be smaller on thicker boards because wood is stronger.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastEditorUserId="10942" LastEditDate="2022-02-16T07:25:37.613" LastActivityDate="2022-02-16T07:25:37.613" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13602" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13603" CreationDate="2022-02-15T17:18:36.927" Score="2" ViewCount="228" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cherry tree (sakura in Japanese) is one of the symbols of Japan. The yearly sakura viewing is a nationwide event with special forecasts on when the trees will bloom in each prefecture. Both fiscal and school year start in April to coincide with sakura blossoming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is making furniture or toys from sakura timber frowned upon in Japan?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that the sakura also has &lt;em&gt;religious connotations in Shinto&lt;/em&gt; and parts of the tree were treated as &lt;em&gt;sacred objects&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cherry_blossom&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia says&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Japanese pilots would paint them on the sides of their planes before embarking on a suicide mission, or even take branches of the trees with them on their missions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia mentions only &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cherry_blossom#Korea&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Korea&lt;/a&gt; as having traditional sakura carpentry. I found Japanese companies using cherry wood in their products, but then again, there are also McDonald's in India. Perhaps their products are made for export.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5579" LastActivityDate="2022-02-15T20:28:41.220" Title="Are household items made from cherry wood poor taste, against tradition, or sacrilege in Japanese culture?" Tags="|wood|traditional-techniques|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13602" CreationDate="2022-02-15T20:28:41.220" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the two long-standing craft traditions I mention in my Comment above that provided strong evidence, I found the following references which dispel any notion that use of the wood in a domestic setting is sacrilege.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to how visually appealing its short-lived flowers are, the cherry tree has also molded Japanese culture in a more tangible way. Cherry wood has been used in various wooden fittings in historical buildings as well as for interior elements, such as thresholds and pillars of &lt;em&gt;tokonoma&lt;/em&gt; alcoves. It has also been a raw material for high-quality furniture and musical instruments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Source:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://brill.com/view/journals/ijwc/1/1-3/article-p126_8.xml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Excellence of Yamazakura: Mountain Cherries and the Disappearing Tradition of Ukiyo-e Craft&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[cherry wood] is typically used as a material for high-end furniture, musical instruments, buildings, finish carpentry, and wood carvings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Source:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://hidakuma.com/en/service/wood_sakura/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hidakuma website&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It even goes on to mention:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Japan, sakura is the most popular smoking chips with strong scent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-02-15T20:28:41.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13604" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-16T04:04:34.090" Score="2" ViewCount="627" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on a small project to build something like this &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07BBL7W46&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BBL7W46&lt;/a&gt; and the part where I am stuck is how to attach a &lt;strong&gt;1/4&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt;. thick plywood to two &lt;strong&gt;15/32&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt; thick plywoods at 90°.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the pictures to give full idea on what I am talking about:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://imgur.com/ZcOwrix.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;first&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/twV6O.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;second&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://imgur.com/tAAgpr2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;third&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My initial approach was to glue it but it will become permanent. I want to be able to disassemble for storing purposes and assemble when there is a need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: Purpose of attaching this 1/4&amp;quot; plywood is to be able to just support any photo frame leaning on it and not really load bearing or anything like that. Something like this: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/emhXq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;4&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11734" LastEditorUserId="11734" LastEditDate="2022-02-16T19:14:03.150" LastActivityDate="2022-02-19T01:52:44.290" Title="How to attach 1/4&quot; thick plywood to 15/32&quot; thick plywood at 90° and being able to remove and attach again?" Tags="|plywood|storage|assembly|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13604" CreationDate="2022-02-16T13:10:06.890" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple, quick and dirty solution:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Screw or glue a piece of wood to the bottom of each of the half-inch sheets. Should be somewhere around 1&amp;quot; by 1&amp;quot; (or larger) and across the length of the sheet. Now you can use threaded inserts or throughbolts and a nut to attach the 1/4&amp;quot; sheet to these blocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way you don't have to screw into the narrow side of a plywood sheet which can be tricky or simply delaminate the plys if you are not carefull. Also, like Volfram K said, holes near the edge of the 1/4&amp;quot; will be weak. This will give you some space to move the holes inwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lower &amp;quot;block&amp;quot; won't be visible, the upper one a little bit (depending on size and perspective). But since I'm guessing the whole thing will be painted anyways, you can just incorporate it into the design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9713" LastActivityDate="2022-02-16T13:10:06.890" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13606" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-17T06:32:44.997" Score="-1" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering getting a compass plane, probably a record 020. Anyone know what is the minimum internal radius they can cut? My first use of it would be constructing a wooden wheel roughly 24inches in diameter and I suspect the inner surface would be too tight a curve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2531" LastActivityDate="2022-02-18T11:25:36.540" Title="Compass plane minimum radius" Tags="|hand-tools|plane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13604" CreationDate="2022-02-17T08:02:03.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Magnet approach sounds like a good one but I am confused as how to add magnets to 15/32&amp;quot; thick plywood? Do I need to find magnet with radius less than 15/32&amp;quot; and stick in it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go with magnet solution find strong magnets in suitable size, drill holes in plywood and glue magnets in holes with CA or epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;15/32&amp;quot; = 12mm (11.9) so 8mm ok size.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8mm magnets very common size, so cheap.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5/16&amp;quot; close match to 8mm so no need for metric bit set.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, what radius magnet I need on the 1/4&amp;quot; ply?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Magnets only mounted in thick plywood so no holes necessary in thinner plywood. Also do not need to worry about polarity!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Epoxy L bracket to plywood, or glue thin pieces of wood to plywood and epoxy steel strip on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastActivityDate="2022-02-17T08:02:03.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4916" CreationDate="2022-02-17T18:13:16.920" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another advantage to using smaller blades is when cutting custom moldings from preferred stock, particularly cove moldings. You can dial in a smaller radius to create very distinct molding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11751" LastActivityDate="2022-02-17T18:13:16.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13606" CreationDate="2022-02-18T11:25:36.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to oldtooluser it is 20&amp;quot; for the Stanley 020. As the record version is a copy of this, the same is likely to apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Adjustable steel sole planes concave or convex surfaces where the minimum radius is greater than 20 inches.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://oldtooluser.com/TypeStudy/StanNo20cpTypestudy.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;oldtooluser.com/TypeStudy/StanNo20cpTypestudy.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2531" LastActivityDate="2022-02-18T11:25:36.540" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13604" CreationDate="2022-02-19T01:52:44.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the &amp;quot;finial&amp;quot; looking thing at the left of the first picture aligns with the column, then you could cut a couple of 1/4&amp;quot; wide rabbets in the thicker plywood, insert the edges of the 1/4 plywood in the grooves, then pull the upper and lower pieces together. Assuming the back piece will be against a wall, the fact that there is an overlap of the upper and lower pieces shouldn't be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="463" LastActivityDate="2022-02-19T01:52:44.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13611" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13612" CreationDate="2022-02-20T19:29:27.540" Score="2" ViewCount="388" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was boring holes for stool-legs when this huge chunk of hard maple tore out. This was supposed to the be the top surface of the stool, so it's pretty frustrating. The chip was mangled, so I can't glue it back in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a sharp 1-inch auger bit in a bit brace; what was I supposed to do differently here to prevent ruining the surface?&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F3Jt6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F3Jt6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="292" LastActivityDate="2022-02-21T21:22:21.683" Title="How to prevent tearout when drilling surface at an angle?" Tags="|hand-tools|drilling|traditional-techniques|tear-out|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13611" CreationDate="2022-02-20T20:40:55.117" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes you just can't prevent all surface tearing when drilling directly into wood. Sharp bits do help — and by sharp I mean &lt;em&gt;sharp&lt;/em&gt;, sharp enough you want to handle the bit with care because you fear cutting yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also specific designs of bits drill cleaner holes (more on this below) but this chip is particularly severe, being both large and deep, and this could indicate that the wood was partly to blame and could have chipped out even if one or two steps had been taken to minimise/prevent this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why I think the last tip below is the tip to try to take advantage of when the workflow means you are having to drill into a near-finished surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a sharp 1-inch auger bit in a bit brace; what was I supposed to do differently here to prevent ruining the surface?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tips to help prevent tearing when drilling holes go back a long way and the earliest how-to woodworking books usually include one or two. They can sure help, but I've tried every one I've read once or twice (in various woods, with various bits) and none is 100% effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With auger bits and drilling angled holes specifically one of those tips was to drill perpendicular first, so the spur or spurs can (as much as possible) cleanly sever the surface fibres, before then tipping the drill to the desired angle and complete drilling the hole. This can work well, sometimes&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, but even when it does it leaves a hole that is less than perfect to say the least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern tips include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Apply tape to the surface and drill through it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pick the drill bit specifically for its ability to create good entry and/or exit holes. Forstner bits&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;  are most commonly mentioned in this context.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tape&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;This does not work as well as claimed&lt;/em&gt;; and what's more removing the tape can subsequently lift flakes (just as it does when used to help during sawing) so it might even make the problem worse sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Picking a suitable bit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This is a strategy that definitely works, &lt;em&gt;when you can use it&lt;/em&gt;. But there are plenty of situations when you can't — e.g. no bit of the right type is on hand in the size needed, the right bit type can't be used in the location needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the best tip of all I think is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't drill directly into a final surface&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;There are two ways of implementing this, plan to plane or sand the surface after the holes are drilled, or support the surface fibres of the wood with a secondary block. Both work, but the best is the second because it &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; works, if you can arrange it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the first version you haven't finished dimensioning the piece before drilling, and finish-planing or the last sanding operations will get you down to dimension and take care of the chipping while you're doing so. I like doing this myself and use it frequently, but it's hard to arrange to plane away exactly the right amount of wood to get below any chipping that might occur!&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, this leaves drilling through another piece of wood. This piece MUST be firmly against the surface of the workpiece or it doesn't help, so you either clamp it firmly to the workpiece or have it held in place by hot-melt glue or some other adhesive strategy. If this secondary piece is pre-drilled it can additionally act as a drilling guide to ensure the correct angle (even a plain 90°) is followed, useful when drilling angled holes for splayed legs or perpendicular holes in the middle of a large flat surface, such as bench dog holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Although occasionally as soon as you tip the drill and go deeper a chip is lifted :-(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; And modern developments of it such as toothed or wavey-rim bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Meaning that sometimes you either have to leave some chipout, or fill it, neither of which is entirely satisfactory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2022-02-20T20:58:20.423" LastActivityDate="2022-02-20T20:58:20.423" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13611" CreationDate="2022-02-21T21:22:21.683" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The picture appears to show that the screw in the auger bit grabs the hard wood and pulls the bit down very strongly.  You can see that the bit grabbed one side very deeply while not even catching the other side.  Going so deep allowed the bit to lift the grain outside of the diameter of the bit before it even has severed the grain in the affected area.  A forstner bit does not have a screw at center and cannot grab the wood and pull down. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7LpEz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7LpEz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; It uses many smaller teeth at the perimeter to cut the outer edge of the hole and relies on the pressure of on the drill in order to progress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2022-02-21T21:22:21.683" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13614" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-22T18:36:26.627" Score="4" ViewCount="1272" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a raw wood table where I did the following steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sand the wood&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Applied a linseed oil and let it dry for 3 days&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Applied an oil-based wood stain (semi-gloss) and let it dry for one day. The result was almost perfect till the next step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Finally, today I applied this high gloss varnish product, where the problem started&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Product used:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8esrM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8esrM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DV2AW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DV2AW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got some areas that are glossy while other are matte (as if there is  dust over it). I applied the clear coat varnish when the temperature was 18C. I shook the paint cane for around 3 minutes. Now what is done is done. I am planning to sand the clear coat back and try to apply another coat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why did I get this inconsistent surface? Where is the problem exactly so I can avoid it on another projects and when I apply the second coat on my current project?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the result I currently have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wWSB4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wWSB4.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the wood stain I applied:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xJcKv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xJcKv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11774" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2022-02-23T01:33:12.633" LastActivityDate="2022-02-23T01:33:12.633" Title="Why applying a high gloss Acrylic Clear Coat on our oil-based wood stain has created an inconsistent topcoat" Tags="|wood|paint|varnish|painting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13614" CreationDate="2022-02-22T20:04:25.603" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are multiple reasons this sort of thing can happen, one of the major ones being some inconsistency in the spraying (e.g. changes in angle or distance) or spraying from slightly too far away (only a few centimetres, about 1-2&amp;quot;, can be the difference between a good result and a slightly 'dry' or dusty looking surface).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting a good result with spray-applied finishes is not easy on large, flat surfaces and even more difficult with cans than with a spraygun. As a result not a few people consider that spraycan finishes are more for small projects than for large.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there is another major cause of inconsistent gloss and that is simply when there is not enough of the finish built up on the surface yet. You've only applied one coat so far and that is almost never enough. As a rule never expect any gloss finish applied in the typical thin and even manner to give a consistent finish after just the first coat. Often two isn't enough either; 3-4 is often the sweet spot (except for very thin finishes which require more).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, as a result I would expect this to look a lot better after you've applied the second coat, although it may require a third and possibly even a fourth for a really uniform finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Warm the can. Shake the can well, then place it in hand-hot water — you should be able to comfortably keep your hand in the water, so think more bathwater than tea or coffee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While 18°C is a perfectly reasonable temperature to apply most spray finishes you generally get better results if the can is at a slightly higher temperature. Warming does two things: it reduces the viscosity of the liquid and (slightly) increases the pressure. Together these produce much better flow and atomisation of the finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Once warmed, dry the can well and then shake it some more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you start spraying with the nozzle pointed away from the workpiece and stop spraying once it is past the other end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remember to periodically shake the can during the spraying operation (every 30 seconds or so).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Aim to slightly overlap each pass, but if you leave a slight gap &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; go back over it with another coat to attempt to rectify the problem. Rely on the next coat to catch up with any missed spots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Spray technique tip&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pi4nG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pi4nG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Technique for uniform spray pattern&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Do not&lt;/em&gt; sand between coats unless absolutely necessary. Most finishes don't require it, and it always runs the risk of sanding through to the wood. If you do have to 'sand' use quite fine abrasive (320 or finer) and very gentle pressure, and take particular care along edges and at the corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many guides to spraying online if you want to delve deeper into good spraying technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-02-22T20:04:25.603" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6735" CreationDate="2022-02-23T04:50:04.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The longitudinal strips in the first picture are temporary members called 'ribbands' used to develope the shape of the bent ribs AKA called 'frames'. The ribs are either steamed (old school), or laminated in layers (usual modern way).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the planks are fitted the ribbands are successively removed to make room for the clamps needed to hold the planks to the ribs as they are fastened off. The second picture shows the sheer plank ('strake') fastened off to the ribs. This process goes faster than you may think with a well-trained crew of shipwrights. Once a plank is laid out for one side, its twin is made for the other side. In fact, if the  planking isn't too thick to allow it, in  smaller boats, only one thick plank is made and then sawn in half lengthwise with both pieces then being re-planed to thickness. That helps keep the boat symmetrical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If these pictures are all the same boat and I think they are, I do not understand why the builders would roll it rightside up to plank it. It is ever so much easier to work 'down' on something like a boat instead of working up and overhead! Maybe it was done for photography reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11776" LastEditorUserId="11776" LastEditDate="2022-02-23T04:59:02.127" LastActivityDate="2022-02-23T04:59:02.127" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13617" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13618" CreationDate="2022-02-23T06:09:19.513" Score="4" ViewCount="1413" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was a question asked on reddit recently from someone that was trying to create a bevel on a door for as little money as possible which was accompanied by a lot of hate/negative feedback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After watching this carpenter use a 3 Deg. router bit to make a bevel here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nUNRI-UpSvw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nUNRI-UpSvw&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems this could be a perfectly acceptable way to make a quick bevel in a tight spot. After I did a bit more digging around I found a bit that looks exactly like the one the content creator used in the video above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Carbide Tipped Patternmakers 3 Deg x 3/4 Dia x 2-1/8 x 1/2&amp;quot; Shank.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nt3h6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nt3h6.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially this bit can handle any door up to 2 and 1/8 inches.&#xA;I decided to do a bit more digging around and actually called the company that designed this router bit to ask what they thought about using this to create the 3 deg bevel for a door. They told me the only thing that would really be required would to place a piece of wood under the door. So that the wheel can spin on that instead of spinning on the actual side of the door to get the full 3 degrees required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone think of a reason why this is not an acceptable method to create a 3 degree bevel for a door allowing it to swing freely into its frame?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6237" LastActivityDate="2022-02-23T07:44:10.787" Title="Is there anything wrong with using a 3 degree router bit to make a bevel?" Tags="|router-bit|bevels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="18" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13617" CreationDate="2022-02-23T07:44:10.787" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone think of a reason why this is not an acceptable method to create a 3 degree bevel for a door allowing it to swing freely into its frame?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't understand Reddit reaction. Cutting bevel on edge of board or panel is what such bits are for!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe some objections are based on specific design of door where nails are known to be used, but for traditional door construction only one &amp;quot;gotcha&amp;quot; I can think is breakout at end of cut. This is easy to avoid by using climb cut for last 2&amp;quot; (5cm) or clamping on sacrificial piece to support edge of board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastActivityDate="2022-02-23T07:44:10.787" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13619" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13621" CreationDate="2022-02-25T16:03:31.610" Score="2" ViewCount="463" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering building an 18&amp;quot; drum sander which will be used for hardwoods (making another chess board).   I was considering using some 3.5&amp;quot; PVC pipe and gluing some 60 grit sandpaper to it.   My concern is whether the heat will warp or distort the PVC, and am wondering if anyone has any experience with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more details -- I plan on attaching the drum to a 3/4&amp;quot; steel rod, and 3D printing some mounting wheels.  The mounting wheels would be ABS, and would have angled spokes, that they act as a fans, forcing air through the center of the jig as it turns (hopefully cooling enough).   As far as a motor goes, I was going to attach it via a pulley to a grinder at about a 2:1 ratio (so around 100 rpm).   I was going to build two drums -- one 60 grit, and one 180 grit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But PVC has a maximum operating temperature of around 65C, which I'm afraid I'll pass.   I'm wondering if anyone has tried this, and what experiences they had.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11497" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2022-02-25T17:31:35.080" LastActivityDate="2023-11-22T16:00:30.110" Title="Can you use PVC pipe for drum sander?" Tags="|sanding|thickness-planer|sander|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13620" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13623" CreationDate="2022-02-26T02:23:37.520" Score="4" ViewCount="1836" Body="&lt;p&gt;I looking to buy a set of countersink bits and I'm seeing both tapered and non-tapered versions. Is this personal preference or is there a reason to use one other the other? I mostly work with hardwoods but do work a bit with ply woods as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11791" LastActivityDate="2022-02-26T20:58:31.777" Title="When should I use a tapered drill bit vs straight drill bit for countersinking wood screws?" Tags="|drilling|drill-bits|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13619" CreationDate="2022-02-26T14:41:45.717" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the consensus involves roughly two notions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PVC has a rather low HDT, or Heat Deflection Temperature. With plastics it isn't just about at what temperature they go noticeably soft, but at what temperature range are they unable to maintain their shape under &lt;em&gt;sustained load&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Honestly, I don't think anyone here knows how much heat your proposed system will generate, and whether or not it'll get up to ~50C, which is the lower bounds of the the HDT range for PVC.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I don't think PVC is the right material. It is somewhat unique among plastics for having a very low HDT, and is famous for deforming under pressure and modest heat. It is almost never used for applications above &amp;quot;room temperature&amp;quot;, at least not where there aren't litres of water flowing through them to carry away the heat. The fact that PVC is acceptable for high efficiency furnace exhausts speaks to how little waste heat condensing furnaces make. Not to mention that it took &lt;em&gt;years&lt;/em&gt; for building code to allow for PVC exhausts (in my locale, anyway) because it wasn't a sure thing that they would hold up to the modest heat and corrosive environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are going to be watching the thermometer instead of the work then the tool won't be as useful. And if one day you forget you are going to deflect the drum well out of round and it'll be near impossible to make round again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest ABS if you are hell-bent on using plastic. I'd skip the fancy 3D printed insert and go for wood circles to drive it, or something equally as rigid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, honestly, the traditional material for sanding drums is &lt;em&gt;wood&lt;/em&gt; and there is a reason for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wood can be resurfaced round again, for years and years&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Forgiving surface when you push a bit too hard&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Durable enough that you won't have to be dainty with it, and can get much hotter than any plastic if that happens by mistake&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, while I don't &lt;em&gt;empirically&lt;/em&gt; know how this material will work in this application, if I put on my materials sciences hat it doesn't sound like the right material. And if I look to the years of tradition for sanding tools I don't see many (or any?) examples of &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; sort of plastic being used like this, for either home-made or commercial products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2022-02-26T14:54:28.797" LastActivityDate="2022-02-26T14:54:28.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13620" CreationDate="2022-02-26T15:06:34.563" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in the comments, this comes down a little to preference and technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I will say that for me, personally, I've settled on &lt;em&gt;quality&lt;/em&gt; tapered countersinking bits when working with engineered wood products. I find the taper works best with an accurate transition to the clearance hole for the shank, and leaves a nice clean, snug place for the head to clamp down into. For your reference I work a lot with so-called &amp;quot;Baltic&amp;quot; veneers, but also a little with OSG material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I do mean &lt;em&gt;quality&lt;/em&gt;. The rule I have for tooling in general is &amp;quot;buy once, cry once&amp;quot; because some of what appears &amp;quot;good enough&amp;quot; on that web site named after the jungle and the river has turned out to be literal garbage. As in, I couldn't even reuse the steel, and I threw them in the garbage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(SE sites aren't for shopping, but at the risk of making an Answer that'll age poorly, you could not go wrong by looking at the recommendations and sponsors for YouTube channels like &amp;quot;Stumpy Nubs&amp;quot;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastActivityDate="2022-02-26T15:06:34.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13620" CreationDate="2022-02-26T20:58:31.777" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I mention in my Comment above, there are no clear reasons to prefer one type over the other for varied materials, except possibly whether you commonly use straight or tapered screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you prefer old-school tapered wood screws the decision seems to be an easy one, you get the tapered type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you mainly use straight screws then the decision again seems easy, you get the other type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;But there are numerous other design considerations to factor in.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the number of cutters on the countersink portion (more flutes cut more smoothly, but slower.... FWIW outside of a production environment I don't think speed of cutting should be any consideration);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the design of the cutting edges (does it scrape more than cut?);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the design of the flutes (relates to how well chips are cleared);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the material of the countersink — carbon steel, HSS or carbide;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the fit of the countersinks to each bit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another factor to consider with straight bits is how clean the initial hole is. You might be thinking the countersink will naturally clean the edge of the drilled hole as soon as it reaches the surface, but there's no absolute guarantee a flake won't be lifted that reaches a little beyond the full countersink/counterbore radius&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. This is obviously more of an issue with twist bits than brad-point/lip-and-spur bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And equally importantly, brad-point bits by their very nature are easier to precisely locate on pencilled markings or into an awl depression, with almost zero chance of 'walking' like with twist bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you choose to buy the straight type I would suggest giving strong consideration to those NOT based on regular twist drills, &lt;em&gt;unless the point of the drill is ground specifically for wood&lt;/em&gt; &lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;And the elephant in the room...&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;These bits are by definition used for drilling holes for what we might term 'joinery screws', and in wood joinery traditionally there were &lt;strong&gt;three&lt;/strong&gt; parts to a properly drilled screw hole, the pilot and countersink/counterbore obviously, but also the &lt;em&gt;clearance hole&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which, if any, of these bits create correctly sized clearance holes?&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearance holes of a suitable size are important to say the least, because if the hole in the first piece of wood is engaged by even one or two turns of threading on the screws it can lead to &lt;em&gt;bridging&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is especially important now with modern (mostly straight) screws which so frequently have threading over the entire shaft. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2708/are-there-specific-types-of-screws-i-should-use-for-woodworking/2714#2714&quot;&gt;a previous Answer on wood screws&lt;/a&gt; for a bit more on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much more useful info as relates to design details of these combo bits at the following links:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://toolguyd.com/straight-tapered-countersink-drill-bits/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Straight vs. Tapered Countersink Drill Bits?&lt;/a&gt; on ToolGuyd.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/tools/comprehend-the-countersink/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Countersink Bits – More to Them Than You Might Think!&lt;/a&gt; on Popular Woodworking.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.finewoodworking.com/2011/06/02/tool-carbide-tipped-countersink-bits-review&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amana-Tool Carbide-Tipped Countersink Bits&lt;/a&gt; on Fine Woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Been there, bought the T-shirt ^_^ This is a continual frustration working with softwoods, but some hardwoods can be prone to the issue too (perhaps most prevalent in coarser-grained species).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Which, based on all the images I just looked at online, you won't easily find!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; It is perfectly fine if they don't, as long as you know this going in. &lt;em&gt;These bits still save a step&lt;/em&gt;, even if you have to subsequently open up the top hole slightly for your screws of choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-02-26T20:58:31.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13624" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13625" CreationDate="2022-02-27T05:34:45.187" Score="2" ViewCount="332" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm starting to plan a record player &amp;amp; typewriter display unit for my office. I've built some of the other furniture in my office; some bookcases &amp;amp; a wall-mounted desk. I've got a basic set of tools (drill, impact driver, circular saw, table saw, jigsaw, hammers, etc.) but nothing fancier than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the design I have sorted out, but there is one thing that I'm not sure how to accomplish once I start making sawdust. I'd like to have two shelves that are at an angle to show off the typewriters (and a Tandy 102) a bit better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what I've got in SketchUp so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AsGna.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AsGna.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two yellow squares are records, the blue boxes are the typewriters. The empty spot is where I might put a receiver, or some other collectibles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan is to build all of this out of plywood. I'm still figuring out how thick I want to have the outer part of the display cabinet, it's probably not going to be the 1.5 inches in the image above (feels like that'd be too heavy to get up the stairs!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm wondering about mounting the shelves at an angle like in the image. Could I get away with just using shelf pins, or should I do something a bit more permanent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11796" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-02-27T16:41:12.523" LastActivityDate="2022-02-27T16:41:12.523" Title="How to mount angled shelves in a cabinet?" Tags="|technique|plywood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13624" CreationDate="2022-02-27T06:43:48.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm still figuring out how thick I want to have the outer part of the display cabinet, it's probably not going to be the 1.5 inches in the image above&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/13542/would-this-tv-stand-made-almost-entirely-of-3-4-in-birch-plywood-withstand-the-l&quot;&gt;3/4&amp;quot; plywood is very strong&lt;/a&gt; :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But probably &lt;strong&gt;1/2&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt; plywood would be ok for expected load! See &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=en48E7UVzzc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; from The Honest Carpenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could I get away with just using shelf pins&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much modern kitchen storage is made from weaker material than plywood, with shelves held by pins. Based on loads these shelves can hold without problem &lt;strong&gt;yes&lt;/strong&gt; you will get away with just using shelf pins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastActivityDate="2022-02-27T06:43:48.083" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13627" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-27T18:52:30.040" Score="0" ViewCount="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;My jointer tables are not stainless material, so they develop rusty spots. I already removed most of it using a rust-removing liquid product, but there are still some die-hard remnants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Would it be OK to remove this rust with very fine sandpaper? An orbital sander even?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to prevent this thing from happening in the future. I am considering either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;hydrodesulfurized kerosene&lt;/strong&gt; (the single ingredient on a self-proclaimed jointer table lubricant)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;rustproof artificial resin-based paint&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;rustproof lacquer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with the 1. is that the surface must be rust-free before application. The problem with 2. and 3. is that they are not transparent (brown and black).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Would any of these surface treatments offset the (possible) sins I would commit by sanding the tables?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5579" LastActivityDate="2022-02-27T18:52:30.040" Title="Can you sand jointer infeed and outfeed tables?" Tags="|tool-maintenance|jointer|thickness-planer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2022-02-27T19:47:12.097" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13109" CreationDate="2022-02-28T08:19:53.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My little experience here: I have an ancient chain saw which gives off a lot of bar oil (better too much than too little...).  With it, I cut a huge block of beech out of a quite green tree in a long procedure, surely leaving some oil on the surface.  After letting it dry for two years, I cut out some parts, again with the same saw, and after a couple of weeks planed the top and bottom with an electric hand planer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't even worry about oil residues.  The noticable splatters after cutting all went away after time; probably the wood just soaks it in and it diffuses (and dried wood soaks oil really quick!).  No traces are visible any more, anywhere on the surface -- neither the planed parts, nor where I let it rough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OTOH, I have in the past used bar oil as an improvised substitute to treat tool handles (so, really rubbed them with a lot of oil).  It does in fact leave a very nice finish, somewhere between a non-drying furniture oil and a drying oil.  A bit tacky, but that's exactly what I want on an axe handle.  Yet, I'd definitely go into them with tools, and have done so when refitting handles -- there's nothing strange there, it's just like any old tool handle with a patina.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10431" LastActivityDate="2022-02-28T08:19:53.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13109" CreationDate="2022-02-28T13:30:33.627" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, chainsaw oil is not a problem.  Chainsaws, even reasonably decent tuned ones, do not throw out enough oil to seriously damage the wood.  If it is, there is something wrong with your saw, either it is spewing way to much oil (in which case you likely need to fill up the oil reserve at least twice as often as the gas) or your chain is so dull that it is spending way to much time cutting through the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are chainsaw mills all over the country and they are used because they work and are cheap (compared to larger mills).  they have a large kerf, and even the steadiest hand leaves a pretty rough cut, so they will need to be run through a jointer and thickness planer, (or lot and lots of hand planning).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People use chainsaws for carving as well.  as long as it's decently tuned and sharp, shouldn't be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2022-02-28T14:56:05.387" LastActivityDate="2022-02-28T14:56:05.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13632" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13634" CreationDate="2022-02-28T21:40:37.747" Score="2" ViewCount="422" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to smoothen an oak board with a huge gnarl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CmOXT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CmOXT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just put in brand new knives and set the difference between the infeed and outfield tables to 0.25 mm, which I think is quite small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even so, the board is vibrating quite uncomfortably under my push-blocks. On top of that, I see tiny silvery flakes on the jointed surface, which I suppose were a part of the knives just moments ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I doing something wrong, or is it better to leave some boards for the sandpaper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5579" LastActivityDate="2022-03-01T06:44:48.890" Title="Can you use a jointer and planer on hardwood with gnarls?" Tags="|hardwood|jointer|thickness-planer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13632" CreationDate="2022-03-01T01:13:52.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;May depend on the machine; I used a schools' wood shop planer on a heavily gnarled oak board. It was about 14&amp;quot; X 8ft. It was noisy but cut fine; a little belt sanding and it looked good. I had a 6&amp;quot; joiner that I did not use much, but I saw no difference with knots in pine, cedar or oak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3966" LastActivityDate="2022-03-01T01:13:52.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13632" CreationDate="2022-03-01T06:44:48.890" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Board looks ok to me, ready to proceed to next step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see tiny silvery flakes on the jointed surface, which I suppose were a part of the knives just moments ago&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your knives may not be good quality! Oak is hard, and knots are harder, but you should not see chipped edges after only 1 light cut. But maybe these are just flakes of &amp;quot;wire edge&amp;quot; from poor sharpening job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If edges are chipped I recommend adding back bevel to knives to strengthen edge. Alternative is to make cutting angle steeper with second bevel, but then machines will not work as well on softer woods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I doing something wrong, or is it better to leave some boards for the sandpaper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you trying to produce finished surface?? Then yes you are doing something wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jointer and planer are to produce &lt;strong&gt;flat&lt;/strong&gt; surfaces, not smooth surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With normal steel cutters any cut, any feed rate and any wood will not give perfectly smooth surface. You must complete job by sanding or scraping or hand plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastActivityDate="2022-03-01T06:44:48.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13635" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-01T13:36:36.087" Score="0" ViewCount="70" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all apologies if this is the wrong forum, not sure where else I can ask this question, but I have a Makita DHP482 Combi drill, and it seems to be killing all new batteries I use with it. Brand new batteries, fully charged run for maybe 5 seconds, and then smoke from the battery itself. Then the battery will no longer charge.&#xA;Any Ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11805" LastActivityDate="2022-03-01T13:36:36.087" Title="Combi Drill causing battery failure" Tags="|tool-repair|drill|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13636" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-01T17:28:42.927" Score="4" ViewCount="167" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about making a table top with a veneer surface and then framing the edge with eight segments of solid wood. For discussion's sake, the idea is to have a circular table with a plywood veneered center that is 38&amp;quot; in diameter, and then frame that with a 4&amp;quot; wide ring of inch-thick solid wood. The total diameter of the top would then be 46 inches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not clear what the process is to align the top surface of the veneered center to the top surface of the solid wood frame. I would have a very thin veneer butted against a thick frame. What concerns me is how do you account for any misalignment of the top surfaces so that the finished table top is one smooth plane? I would be afraid to handle that with sanding, due to the thinness of the veneer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an good explanation somewhere of how this process is done? Or could someone explain it here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="299" LastEditorUserId="299" LastEditDate="2022-03-01T20:25:18.567" LastActivityDate="2022-03-02T13:29:00.353" Title="Aligning Table Top Veneer With Solid Wood Frame" Tags="|tabletop|veneer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13636" CreationDate="2022-03-01T17:46:51.503" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You apply the edging/banding and then you have to trim it. This is a typical use for a trim router, for example. Your banding will never go on perfectly, if only because it will not be perfectly straight when compared with the circumference that is your reference. I'd advise concentrating on getting a nice glue-up of the banding without worrying to much about how much of it is proud of any perpendicular surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are specialty planes for this, but a block plane will probably work just fine. Many of the specialty tools can create bevel at the same time that you may have to consider because the veneer might be quite thin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a trim router you can use a flush-cutting bit that uses the top surface of the table to cut the excess. you could shim with layers of tape if you wanted the edging to be more proud of the surface. Thicker edging will require multiple passes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd experiment with test pieces before you attack the actual table with spinning blades. I don't think the small amount of rocking where the flat of the router meets the radius of the circle will be a problem, but you could add some shims to the bottom of the router to have it sit on three points so at least the attitude of the cutter stays the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I now see that this &amp;quot;banding&amp;quot; is actually a significant thickness of solid wood, the time-honoured way of doing this is with a hand-plane. (Though a router would still work.) There are profiling/edging planes that can follow an edge and cut a profile, but a careful hand with a block plane should work. You could plane close and then finish with a cabinet scraper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then use the plane or a trim router to put a nose or a bevel on the outside of the edging for comfort!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2022-03-01T18:03:14.890" LastActivityDate="2022-03-01T18:03:14.890" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13636" CreationDate="2022-03-01T22:22:42.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I mention in my Comment, one of the ways this was done traditionally was by hand planing, and I'd have no hesitation in recommending this basic approach to anyone comfortable in the use of planes for any rectilinear tables or cabinet sides. But because it can be tricky to plane straight through from one piece of wood to another that's at a different angle this may not be the method of choice here, although it is certainly doable this way with care and attention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, given your constraints I think &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; way to do this is with a router, but because of the width involved not the way this sort of thing is typically done by router (using a pattern bit). I was fairly sure I saw a video on this method on Nick Engler's YouTube channel, Workshop Companion, but didn't realise until I went looking for it again just now that it was their first ever episode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you'll find it just perfect for what you need to do, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BS5PGsgxuQo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Best Router Jig Ever for Precise Flush Cuts&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the concept is most self-explanatory once you see pics of similar jigs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qMHYA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qMHYA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Flushing router jig&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing that isn't immediately evident is how to set the bit &lt;em&gt;just slightly&lt;/em&gt; higher than the router base  (a few thou, &amp;gt;0.1mm) which Nick gives a nice trick for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in the video, jigs such as this are also perfect for flush-trimming plugs or dowels if you don't wish to do this by manual methods:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O7j5V.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O7j5V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ideal for flushing plugs or dowels&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-03-02T13:29:00.353" LastActivityDate="2022-03-02T13:29:00.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13640" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-03T00:54:21.997" Score="2" ViewCount="271" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in building a traditional bow-lathe, specifically of the type still used in parts of North Africa, a few videos of which can be found on YouTube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that I can't really figure out how the mechanism for moving the two centers closer together works, aside from it seeming to use wedges in some capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone has any information it would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to further clarify what im talking about, i'll link some pictures and videos below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/wnv0DAR_gWA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/wnv0DAR_gWA&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/RMQrz1gJy9M&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/RMQrz1gJy9M&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;these videos, both from Morocco, show these devices in action, and are rather impressive in my opinion, but the details of the lathe itself are somewhat obscured by chips and the turner's themselves. Here are some of the best close-up images ive been able to find of a similar lathes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-To97wy-WU-o/TpMEKgb-d-I/AAAAAAAAArU/Zfp6G-Kkhpg/s1600/Artisan+%25234.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-To97wy-WU-o/TpMEKgb-d-I/AAAAAAAAArU/Zfp6G-Kkhpg/s1600/Artisan+%25234.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UbVKXjpebSk/UnOHyNXGS-I/AAAAAAAAAOc/a4Sh-Jt4qYo/s1600/P1110859.JPG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UbVKXjpebSk/UnOHyNXGS-I/AAAAAAAAAOc/a4Sh-Jt4qYo/s1600/P1110859.JPG&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GbN9z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GbN9z.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4G5eJPO4dek/WvMfYzOlWGI/AAAAAAAAB_Y/68koyB7VZIoHDFMy-RtLmicSG3Z4UpboACEwYBhgL/s1600/P1190313%2Br.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4G5eJPO4dek/WvMfYzOlWGI/AAAAAAAAB_Y/68koyB7VZIoHDFMy-RtLmicSG3Z4UpboACEwYBhgL/s1600/P1190313%2Br.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wedges I was referring to can be seen in the last image, but this is a somewhat different design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11814" LastEditorUserId="11814" LastEditDate="2022-03-04T00:35:25.280" LastActivityDate="2022-04-11T17:00:16.413" Title="How does a traditional bow-lathe work?" Tags="|lathe|traditional-techniques|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="17" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13641" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13642" CreationDate="2022-03-04T07:34:49.640" Score="2" ViewCount="975" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about getting my first table saw. I'm a hobbyist but I still want to get something good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a list of desirable features (safety, accuracy, usability, etc) as well as things to look out for and how to assert the tool's quality once I get it so it won't take me a lot of time to realize something is wrong with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11120" LastActivityDate="2023-12-02T15:52:09.603" Title="What should I look for when buying a table saw?" Tags="|table-saw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13641" CreationDate="2022-03-04T10:00:44.523" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many existing guides to purchasing first table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6L8w6-8fc6A&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Buy Your First Table Saw and Get Started Using It&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Intro says &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;the primary considerations you should have are your budget and your needs&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.makefromwood.com/choosing-a-table-saw-13-things-to-consider-before-buying/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Choosing A Table Saw – 13 Things To Consider Before Buying!&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Base Type&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Table Space&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extension Tables&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rip Capacity&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Electrical&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saw Blade Size&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut Depth&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dust Collection&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dado Blade Option&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;[Not available in many countries outside of America, considered too dangerous by lawmakers]&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fence Options&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;[Stock fences on saws ($$-$$$) sometimes poor, many better 3rd party fences available. DIY fence for older saws can be &lt;strong&gt;huge&lt;/strong&gt; upgrade.]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blade guard&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Riving Knife&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saw Stop&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;As mentioned before, table saws are the most dangerous machines in a woodworker’s shop based on ER visits.&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not mentioned but I think very important is &lt;strong&gt;miter gauge&lt;/strong&gt;. Stock miter gauge often weakest part, even on good brands can be junk. Many upgrade miter gauges now available, can be expensive. Some from China are of very high build quality but not overpriced, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xrjj5loLLoU&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;China tools Ep.18 Does the best Miter Gauge come from China?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.toolstop.co.uk/blog/knowledge-base/why-you-should-own-a-table-saw&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Why you should own a Table Saw&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.therecreationalwoodworker.com/blog/choosing-your-first-table-saw&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Choosing Your First Table Saw&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodandshop.com/best-table-saw-for-woodworking-power-tool-buying-guide-05/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Choose the Best Table Saw&lt;/a&gt; (updated only 5 days ago!)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rockler.com/learn/the-right-table-saw-for-your-shop&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Right Table Saw for Your Shop&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworkingformeremortals.com/your-first-table-saw-a-step-by-step-guide-to-making-your-first-cuts-woodworking-basics/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Your first table saw: A step-by-step guide to making your first cuts.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Added points possibly not covered in links&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Most important to research table saw safe practice BEFORE FIRST USE.&lt;/strong&gt; You cannot trust many YouTubers to teach you table saw safety as &lt;strong&gt;many ignore basic safety protocols&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stock blades often poor. Starting budget should allow for purchase of 1-3 quality blades from reliable manufacturer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TURN OFF POWER TO SAW WHEN CHANGING BLADE.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After you purchase you need to research crosscut sleds and zero clearance inserts. 1st important for safety during crosscuts, 2nd for quality of cut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Older saws can be upgraded with knee switch for huge safety upgrade.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dust collection, dust collection, dust collection&lt;/strong&gt; if you will work inside.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastActivityDate="2022-03-04T10:00:44.523" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13644" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-05T19:43:59.853" Score="3" ViewCount="529" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm designing a small greenhouse 60x40cm 60cm high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I'm not even an amateur woodworker, I won't dare use anything but screws to connect the pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are pocket screws ok to connect pilar and two beams?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pilars are 3x3cm and others are 2x2cm. All pinus.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sketchup file and stl 3d model are &lt;a href=&quot;https://ufile.io/f/sjna2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An image from the project:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uBUKP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uBUKP.png&quot; alt=&quot;project&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have basic tools like power drill, power screw driver, G clamps, chisels and a plane. Will have soon a ryoba saw and a work table (wx051 from worx).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Up to now I just screwed planks together to build plant stands on wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The base will be on wheels. I live in an apartment and the greenhouse will stay at the balcony.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11822" LastEditorUserId="11822" LastEditDate="2022-03-07T23:49:23.833" LastActivityDate="2022-03-12T22:43:11.613" Title="How to connect three pieces with screws?" Tags="|screws|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13645" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13652" CreationDate="2022-03-05T23:40:31.777" Score="1" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a poker table design that I have started CNCing components for.&#xA;There are walnut sides with blond diamonds inlayed.&#xA;In the blond diamonds, there are some engraved letters that I am going to inlay with resin.&#xA;In the solid model, these are outlined with black--and I really like the way that looks.&#xA;Is there any way to get this effect with an inlay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nc7gb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nc7gb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11823" LastActivityDate="2022-03-07T15:45:56.210" Title="How can I get this effect with resin inlay?" Tags="|cnc|inlay|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13644" CreationDate="2022-03-06T15:30:56.490" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the hardest skills to learn as a craftsperson is how to take your pretty plan and turn it into a real thing. And the single most important part of that is figuring out your order of operations. This is why it is important to consider the build process during planning, so you sweat the details like how it is assembled, and how the members meet and are fastened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It makes no sense to me to try and balance three members going off at right angles to each other and trying to drive pocket screws at the same time. I'd recommend breaking the problem down into pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, you have &lt;em&gt;basically&lt;/em&gt; two face frames (or close enough for this conversation -- pedants will be ignored!). Assemble those, first. Your pocket screws will be on the inside mating the front and back members into their respective rectangular frames. Now what?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, we can see the problem that you've designed the sides to butt up against the frames. This isn't ideal if you want to manage racking, so maybe the sides are &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; a flat frame. Then you build up your box using four flat-assembled frames attached in some manner. Or maybe not. Maybe those long members connecting the front and rear frames are fine with a few pocket screws from below. Perhaps the box will stiffen up nicely once they are all in place and the notched bottom is in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But think about how you will assemble this thing from flat modules at the beginning so you minimize trying to coordinate three members in 3D space that would require some annoying clamping setup that you don't have the tools for anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to attach the roof part is left as an exercise for the reader.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2022-03-06T15:36:34.360" LastActivityDate="2022-03-06T15:36:34.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13644" CreationDate="2022-03-07T03:55:58.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are pocket screws ok to connect pilar and two beams?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Builders create multistory buildings using mostly nails as connectors. Given the size of your structure, I'm sure pocket screws will be more than adequate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your greenhouse will be much stronger if you take care to ensure the ends of the pieces are all cut square, so that the pocket screws can pull the joint tight. If you add rigid panels (like plexiglas or &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B08KNMHWHS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;twin-wall panels&lt;/a&gt;) to the sides of your greenhouse, instead of &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00BM8HHKK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;thin polyethylene film&lt;/a&gt;, that'll add a lot of strength to the structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2022-03-07T06:09:42.543" LastActivityDate="2022-03-07T06:09:42.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13648" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13654" CreationDate="2022-03-07T04:05:49.657" Score="9" ViewCount="4389" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm cutting some shelf supports, and am curious which grain direction is optimal for holding a screw + load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Of course this is negligible in the given context, but I'd like to know for reference)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a visual thinker so, here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y26fF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y26fF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A, through verticle grain&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ovdtn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ovdtn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;B, through horizontal grain&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11474" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-11-26T10:01:55.473" LastActivityDate="2023-11-26T10:01:55.473" Title="Wood grain orientation vs. strength for screws + load" Tags="|wood|technique|strength|screws|end-grain|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13648" CreationDate="2022-03-07T06:05:08.230" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In this example, the wood grain direction is not your primary concern. In any situation, the load on the shelves will be too small to stress the supporting wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is because &lt;strong&gt;the screws and the fixing in the wall&lt;/strong&gt; are under the most strain, not the support piece (in this example, the piece of wood).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the shelf is overloaded, the screws will bend or tear from the wall plug, there will be little damage to the supporting piece of wood.&#xA;It is more important to pay attention to how the shelves are attached to the wall if they will hold much weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other contexts, grain orientation is indeed important, and the wood will be stronger when the grain is parallel to the exerted force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastEditorUserId="13909" LastEditDate="2023-11-22T18:47:35.897" LastActivityDate="2023-11-22T18:47:35.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13650" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-07T12:38:53.097" Score="-2" ViewCount="174" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some small parts (wood, or even FR4 plates like for PCBs) which I want to seal against humidity. My idea is to slightly impregnate them with epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To avoid bubbles under the coat and to enhance penetration in the wood fibres or in the FR4 voids I would like to vacuum the part so that resin will penetrate a little more when vacuum is removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are my options to achieve vacuum?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am aware of using a vacuum cleaner, but is the vacuum strong enough? also, does vacuum need to be maintained for several minutes for this purpose, or are a couple of minutes enough? a vacuum cleaner motor without the flow of air will overheat extremely quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other cheap options are available for casual use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4774" LastActivityDate="2022-03-07T14:13:50.443" Title="What are my options to generate vacuum for impregnating with resin/epoxy?" Tags="|epoxy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13650" CreationDate="2022-03-07T13:29:53.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the comments say, you don't really have to do this to protect wood from humidity. Depending on the application, some wood is used without any finish at all because that has proven the most effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you want to experiment a shop vacuum and some of those cheap vacuum storage bags will probably be fine, especially for your first experiments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the real answer here is if you want to finish wood to protect it against moisture, use a penetrating finish of any kind and just brush or spray it on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2022-03-07T14:13:50.443" LastActivityDate="2022-03-07T14:13:50.443" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13645" CreationDate="2022-03-07T15:45:56.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: I've never done this before. I've never worked with inlay or resin, either. This answer is based solely on intuition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use your CNC machine to rout out the full size of the blue letters &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; black outlines into the light diamonds, then fill them with blue resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the resin has cured, put it back into the CNC and route out &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; the black outline, then fill with black resin. Aligning the resin filled piece back in the CNC machine to ensure the black outlines are carved out properly is an exercise left to the reader.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How well the black will hold with wood on one side and more resin on the other is way above my pay grade. The resin manufacturer may be able to tell you how well their product will stick to a cured version of itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, this may require some experimentation and test pieces, and end up with somewhat thicker black outlines than you'd desire in order to get the resin to flow and to stick. But, that's what the testing is for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2022-03-07T15:45:56.210" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13648" CreationDate="2022-03-07T16:05:05.213" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is more a question of growth rings than grain. The grain runs lengthwise in the beam, so it is parallel to the wall in either case, as it should be. The growth rings affect the strength of the wood less than the main grain direction, but there is still some difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is unlikely that the load would be high enough to split the wood. Usually wood constructions are limited by the amount of sag (bending due to force) rather than the break strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, seasonal moisture variations may eventually split the wood along the growth ring. The screw direction A would hold the split wood together, while the screw direction B would pull the split wider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly if the screw is driven too close to the end in direction B, it splits the wood easier than in direction A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="441" LastActivityDate="2022-03-07T16:05:05.213" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13648" CreationDate="2022-03-08T14:31:28.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vertical (quartersawn) grain is the strongest in terms of flexion loads, and consequently one would assume would be &lt;em&gt;slightly&lt;/em&gt; stronger against compression loads. The wood is also less likely to split across a grain line vs along one, but I think that's dependant on species. An example here is guitar braces. They use straight grained spruce with vertical grain lines for the optimal strength/stiffness to weight ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slightly more importantly is wood shift. Wood moves the most parallel to a grain line as humidity changes. One would assume you will have enough compression in the (soft) wood from the screw to tolerate any changes in the wood, however in an application using bolts and hardwood with minimal compression, the change in size of the wood can cause an otherwise torqued-to-spec bolt to come loose. An anecdotal example: I have to tighten the wooden holds on my climbing wall in the winter, because the wood shrinks just enough that the holds will spin under the heavy load of dynamic climbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2689" LastActivityDate="2022-03-08T14:31:28.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13657" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-11T19:52:44.533" Score="2" ViewCount="308" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am rebuilding a park bench - the kind that has a cast steel piece at each end and a dozen or so wooden slats running in between the ends.   I plan to use &amp;quot;red grandis&amp;quot; nominal 1-by from a local hardwood store, and stainless carriage bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to make the slats 4ft long, unless that seems too much for this wood. It looks like pretty strong stuff, having a modulus of elasticity north of 2 million psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main question has to do with how to figure out the slat widths.   The spacing of the bolt holes (in the steel end pieces) is fairly irregular, being roughly (in decimal inches): 1.75, 3.125, 3.25, 3.125, 3.25, 3.25, 3.5, 3.00, 3.375, 2.375, 1.5, as best I am able to measure through the curved parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using Excel, I first computed it so that, after subtracting 1/2&amp;quot; gap from each of the spaces, a slat was sized to use half of the remaining space on each side of it.  For example, the slat that has a space of 3.5&amp;quot; on one side and 3&amp;quot; on the other side came out to be 2.75&amp;quot; wide [(1/2 * (3.5-0.5)) + (1/2 * (3.0-0.5))].  The problem with this is that the bolt hole ends up not being in the middle of the slat's width.  Where the spaces are fairly similar (3&amp;quot; or so), this seems reasonable, but towards the end (where the spaces on either side of the bolt hole are very different) the holes are way off center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if there's a better way to compute the slat widths, so that the bolt holes are nearer the center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only table saw that I have access to is pretty crappy, especially for wood this hard, so I'd like to have the hardwood store rip it for me. So winging it as I go does not really work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11840" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2022-03-11T21:58:28.237" LastActivityDate="2022-03-12T17:15:26.450" Title="slat widths rebuilding park bench" Tags="|wood|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13657" CreationDate="2022-03-12T08:53:08.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to use &amp;quot;red grandis&amp;quot; nominal 1-by from a local hardwood store, and stainless carriage bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe in American 'nominal' for hardwoods different to nominal for softwoods. If wood is unplaned 1&amp;quot; is actually 1&amp;quot; or 4/4 (four quarter) and not 3/4&amp;quot; thick. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/understanding-wood-sizes-in-softwood-lumber-3536905&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;If planed, thickness depends on whether it is surfaced on one side or on two sides.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to make the slats 4ft long, unless that seems too much for this wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many such benches are remade from oak now that teak has become too expensive. Others use a type of mahogany which is much less stiff than oak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is red grandis stiffer than oak? Proceed!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main question has to do with how to figure out the slat widths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Impossible to help theoretically. This must be done with iron supports in front of maker. I have helped neighbors work on benches, left and right holes maybe not aligned perfectly or enlarged from rusting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are YouTube videos that show bench rebuilds/restorations and seeing fitting will help understand usual test fit process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vwh0utWdd90&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FALCON390 Workshop&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8QNEmSanns&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Walkers Woodworks&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HHT-vA03sJk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wood By Wright&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iRodAJ5yiNg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Scott Walker&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-03-12T17:15:26.450" LastActivityDate="2022-03-12T17:15:26.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13644" CreationDate="2022-03-12T22:43:11.613" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The structure you have drawn will be flimsy regardless of what kind of fasteners are used. I suggest reading books about framing and cabinetry to see how things are normally put together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is a greenhouse with glass then you will need to design the windows and want that to be sturdy, so the windows are not falling out and breaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your type of construction, one easy way to do a three-way joint is with a corner brace:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EVVjW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EVVjW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2022-03-12T22:43:11.613" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13663" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13666" CreationDate="2022-03-13T02:45:55.353" Score="3" ViewCount="478" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07KSRTDML&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DeWALT Cordless Trim Router (model DCW600B)&lt;/a&gt;. I'm wanting to cut some dovetails for the first time with a router. I just purchased a &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B000HGL59M&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PORTER-CABLE Dovetail Jig with Mini Template Kit (4216)&lt;/a&gt; to get started. Unbeknownst to me, that doesn't work for anything but &amp;quot;mini-dovetails&amp;quot; using a 1/4-inch collet router like the DCW600B I own. So I need to purchase a 1/2-inch collet router. In the DeWALT Ecosystem, that's the &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00006JKXB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2.25 HP DW618&lt;/a&gt; or its smaller &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00006JKX9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1.75 HP DW616&lt;/a&gt; brother.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the DeWALT ecosystem, &lt;strong&gt;are there any shared accessories that there's a good reason to &lt;em&gt;stay&lt;/em&gt; with DeWALT when moving from a cordless trim router to a corded router&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11848" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2022-03-15T14:43:49.103" LastActivityDate="2022-03-15T14:43:49.103" Title="Are there any accessories that work with a corded 1/2 inch collet DeWALT router and a cordless 1/4 inch collet DeWALT palm router?" Tags="|router|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13663" CreationDate="2022-03-13T19:54:04.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do they share any accessories?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't answer this part but while it's certainly one way to decide on what to get even if they do I don't think it should drive the final decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the way to approach a purchase like this is to honestly assess how much future use the 1/2&amp;quot;-collet router is going to see &lt;em&gt;in your workshop&lt;/em&gt; given you already own a trim router — so many workshop duties are well covered by trim routers, and cordless ones add an extra layer of handiness that's undeniable once you see them being used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't to decide &lt;em&gt;whether&lt;/em&gt; you want/need a router that can take 1/2&amp;quot; bits, that need is already there, but to help decide how far up the food chain you need go in the larger router you select. If the price differential is significant enough for you to be asking I suggest a realistic assessment of how much use the larger router will get is called for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people say it's always wise to buy the best you can afford, essentially &amp;quot;buy once, cry once&amp;quot;, and there is obviously something to that, in both hand and power tools. But the reality is that it has never been &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; route to best value, much less the assurance of quality it is claimed to be. And the falling standards of almost all power tool brands over recent decades has further chipped away at this argument -_-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in recent years there has been a rise in the &amp;quot;buy cheap/cheaper, see how much I actually use it&amp;quot; camp. This has a few advantages you can probably think of yourself, but sometimes there's a pleasant surprise in store when you discover just how good a tool is even though it's one or even a couple of rungs down the ladder!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-03-13T19:54:04.377" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13665" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-13T22:34:58.723" Score="4" ViewCount="277" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's normally never below freezing where I live so I never bother bringing glue inside. There was a cold snap around -7c nights for 3-4 days and I have 5 different unopened epoxy tubes that were inside an unheated van. I work on furniture for customers so risking it is not worth it for 50-60$. Would you recommend replacing them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9309" LastActivityDate="2022-03-17T18:51:28.990" Title="Epoxy sat in -7c for 3 nights should I replace it?" Tags="|epoxy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13663" CreationDate="2022-03-14T02:41:21.977" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I asked DeWALT and they have this question in their FAQ, &lt;a href=&quot;https://support.dewalt.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012644498-What-accessories-are-available-for-the-DEWALT-DCW600-Cordless-Compact-Router-&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;What accessories are available for the DEWALT DCW600 Cordless Compact Router?&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. This question is relatively new. DeWALT answered with the following (which I attempted to exhaustively audit),&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B004AJ95DA&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DNP612 Plunge Base&lt;/a&gt; Does not seem to work on non-compact.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B004AJEUKS&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DNP615 Dust&lt;/a&gt; Does not seem to work on non-compact.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00002232W&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DW6913 (Router Edge Guide, Fine Adjustment, Vacuum Adapter)&lt;/a&gt; &lt;strong&gt;FITS BOTH&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No idea what they're talking about&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;s&gt;Edge Guide Collection Adapter For DNP612&lt;/s&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Duplicate&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;s&gt;Plunge Base For DNP612&lt;/s&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No idea what they're talking about&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;s&gt;Plunge Base DNP617&lt;/s&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B004AJEUOY&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Centering Cone (which seems to be DNP617)&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;strong&gt;Fits 1/2 and 1/4 inch collet&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B004AJ95DK&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DNP613 Round (base plate)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No idea what they're talking about&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;s&gt;DNP617 Dust&lt;/s&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B09DY19ZXV&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DNP618&lt;/a&gt; Does not seem to work on non-compact.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No idea what they're talking about&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;s&gt;Edge Guide Sub Base Collection Adapter For Compact Router&lt;/s&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No idea what they're talking about&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;s&gt;Fixed Base For Compact Router&lt;/s&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Duplicate of above?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;s&gt;Fixed Base&lt;/s&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it seems like the one accessory which may overlap wireless and wired as of 2022-03-13 is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00002232W&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DW6913 (Router Edge Guide, Fine Adjustment, Vacuum Adapter)&lt;/a&gt; &lt;strong&gt;FITS BOTH&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11848" LastEditorUserId="11848" LastEditDate="2022-03-14T03:46:52.717" LastActivityDate="2022-03-14T03:46:52.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13665" CreationDate="2022-03-14T06:46:06.647" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Should be fine. Epoxy contains no water, so is not damaged by freezing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some users rely on this when they mix a large batch, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.catsailor.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/printthread/Board/1/main/15851/type/thread&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;putting one half in the freezer so they can use it later&lt;/a&gt;! I have done this with epoxy adhesives and putties with no harm to final product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you doubt you can test it. If liquids look normal, it hardens in usual time and you cannot separate pieces without wood itself splitting your epoxy is good. If your resin has become cloudy you can restore it by heating, see link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;First of all, do not despair, frozen epoxy isn't ruined! Although both your resin and activator are capable of freezing, it's very easy to return them to a usable liquid state.&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From WiseBond blog, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wisebond.com/blogs/epoxy-blog/what-happens-if-my-epoxy-freezes-during-delivery&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;What Happens If My Epoxy Freezes During Delivery?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastActivityDate="2022-03-14T06:46:06.647" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13668" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-14T17:59:55.243" Score="2" ViewCount="531" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to refinishing and slowly working on some pieces of furniture. I am currently refinishing a vintage vanity comprised of mahogany veneer. I now have a bunch of scratch marks in the veneer that I don't know how to remove. My intent was to remove the final finish and not to go down to bare wood. After reading some threads, I understand that sanding is the last resort. Whether this would apply to my situation I don't know, but these were my steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I sanded the vanity top starting with 120 grit using a hard block behind the sandpaper. I gradually went up in grit to 400, hoping to smooth out the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I applied a water based stain, but it came out botchy with scratch marks present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Re-sanded maybe using 180 grit and then jumped to 400 grit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Re-stained. The staining came our better but not the best. (Probably really need to soak my tag in the stain before applying). However, I still have the scratch marks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not applied the water based polyurethane as if yet. What will be the best way to remove the scratches?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was just trying to remove the polyurethane and make some minor repairs, re-stain and polyurethane. It appears that my scratches are due from my sanding since they are throughout the top. Other than let it be and move on, is there anyway to minimize those scratches.&#xA;I used Varathane Premium wood stain. It colors in 1 coat&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CVTOz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Vanity top&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l55iO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Vanity top&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fshxR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Vanity top&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11846" LastEditorUserId="11846" LastEditDate="2022-03-15T13:32:35.410" LastActivityDate="2022-03-15T15:29:09.670" Title="Refinishing a scratched mahogany veneer vanity" Tags="|sanding|refinishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13669" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-15T00:01:19.443" Score="3" ViewCount="197" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a beginner hand-tool only woodworker and am trying to square the two ends of a 3ft long, 2.5&amp;quot; thick board of cherry for a floating shelf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've succeeded in squaring one edge, one face, and one end. Now, I need to square the opposite end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally I would score a line across the grain, saw off the waste, then fine tune the end with a block plane until it's square to the reference face and edge. This take a lot longer than the first end, which can be done efficiently on a shooting board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then it dawned on me, &lt;strong&gt;what if I just got a second shooting board?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would allow me to quickly and accurately square both ends. &lt;strong&gt;How hard is it really to shoot both ways with a sharp plane blade?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other option I can see is to flip the board end-for-end on a single shooting board. However, this means the reference face won't be against the shooting board. I can do my best to make the opposite face co-planer to alleviate this, but that's a lot of work for non-showing faces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WTOeJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WTOeJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2022-03-19T06:56:43.957" Title="Using a left and right shooting board to square the ends of a board" Tags="|hand-tools|hand-planing|milling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13669" CreationDate="2022-03-15T07:41:52.130" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is normal to flip board end for end to shoot last end. But because you are making a floating shelf squareness of this end does not matter, you can turn board over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastActivityDate="2022-03-15T07:41:52.130" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13668" CreationDate="2022-03-15T15:29:09.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My intent was to remove the final finish and not to go down to bare wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I say in the Comments, this confuses me because removing final finish is synonymous with going down to bare wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After reading some threads, I understand that sanding is the last resort. Whether this would apply to my situation I don't know&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, sanding should be the method of last resort &lt;em&gt;to remove old finish&lt;/em&gt;. And yes, it applied to your situation since this applies universally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are numerous reasons for this, but it boils down to the high potential for damage to pieces. In addition to the unintentional rounding of sharp features one of the main risks is sanding through veneers. The more modern the furniture the more this applies, because veneers have become thinner and thinner through history as wood values increased and the technology improved&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As much as possible chemical strippers should be relied upon to remove old finishes. It's a dirty, sometimes smelly and always messy job that tends to take longer than anyone wants it to&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, but it's still the best way. If stripping is not an option (for any reason) I would rely on scraping, because it's much more efficient than sanding and far more controllable if done correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sanded the vanity top starting with 120 grit using a hard block behind the sandpaper. I gradually went up in grit to 400, hoping to smooth out the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanding with the paper backed by a hard block was good, sanding up to 400 grit was not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;400 grit is far finer than necessary on almost all furniture work, and specifically not what you want to do when staining because the finer you sand the less stain the wood takes. When using a clear protective finish as the final step in general you can stop sanding at 150 or 180 grit. You can even get away with using 120 as your final grit sometimes!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What will be the best way to remove the scratches?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might not be able to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The major scratch visible in the first two photos might be too deep to remove, and may require filling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have successfully removed cross-grain scratches that &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; have been approximately this severe on veneered surfaces, but it's hard to get a proper sense of scale on your scratch. It does look very bad but some of that impression is from how the bottom is catching the light and the dark stain caught on both 'walls' of the scratch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without anything to go on to asses the thickness of the veneer you're working with I'm not sure whether to advise further sanding (or scraping) to get it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to risk it you either have to live with them, or do some kind of filler work. Filling is too complex a subject to get into here so further research will be needed on your part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might also be worth trying steaming the worst scratches, but only if you can get back to bare wood beforehand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used Varathane Premium wood stain. It colors in 1 coat&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I can see on the Varathane site you used &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.varathanemasters.com/products/fast-dry-wood-stain&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; (since their waterbased stain says &amp;quot;classic&amp;quot; on the flash on the label, not &amp;quot;premium&amp;quot;). FYI this is an oil-based stain, not their &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.varathanemasters.com/products/water-based-stain&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;waterbased stain&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't actually matter which type you used (except for how exactly to proceed later&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;) but this would appear to account for the sheen seen in the photos you added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.varathanemasters.com/products/ultimate-polyurethane-water-based&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Varathane Ultimate Polyurethane Water Based&lt;/a&gt; is the waterbased finish you intend to use I wanted to highlight the recommendation to use a minimum of 4 coats. Note the use of the word minimum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; They have become &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; thin in the modern era, to the point where on many recent pieces you can't risk any amount of heavier sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; It's best to go into a project expecting that stripper will NOT remove all the finish in one go. Time-served pros were often trained to strip &lt;em&gt;three times&lt;/em&gt; to be thorough (and to avoid the need for ANY heavy sanding, something considered absolutely vital when working on antiques).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; You want to wait MUCH longer before final finishing if overcoating with a waterbased clear as you've indicated you intend to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-03-15T15:29:09.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13673" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13674" CreationDate="2022-03-16T21:31:15.787" Score="7" ViewCount="231" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wgV5r.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wgV5r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought an approximately cheap small (1/2&amp;quot; width) shoulder plane from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dictum.com/en/dictum-planes-baed/dictum-shoulder-plane-13-mm-703349&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dictum&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I observed that only the toe of the lever cap presses on the blade (see picture above).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I tree to grind it to maximize the contact surface or it's no use to do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastActivityDate="2022-03-17T06:08:07.183" Title="Is it needed to have the lever cap flat against the blade in a shoulder plane?" Tags="|hand-tools|hand-planing|tool-maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13673" CreationDate="2022-03-17T06:08:07.183" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is normal. Shoulder planes of this design always like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/upVjO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/upVjO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BG5aP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BG5aP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AvQLk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AvQLk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe best example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c0r6z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c0r6z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;L-N shoulder plane&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastActivityDate="2022-03-17T06:08:07.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13669" CreationDate="2022-03-17T07:15:22.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How hard is it really to shoot both ways with a sharp plane blade?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that depends mostly on you. Most baseball players bat on one side or the other, but a talented few can switch hit. I think most people would have a very hard time shooting on the side that they're not accustomed to, but it also seems like something you could get better at with practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've succeeded in squaring one edge, one face, and one end. Now, I need to square the opposite end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't square up stock by hand, but I'd think that planing the second face parallel to the first would be a higher priority than squaring up the second end. Cutting a board to final length is about the last thing you normally do. Once the two faces are parallel, you can use the shooting board with the reference edge against the fence and you'll end up with a square end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2022-03-19T06:56:43.957" LastActivityDate="2022-03-19T06:56:43.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13676" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-17T16:51:04.447" Score="1" ViewCount="893" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to build an outdoor balance beam in a 3-part right-angle Z- shape ( &lt;code&gt;‾‾|__&lt;/code&gt; ) and have access to some fresh-cut white oak (6&amp;quot;x6&amp;quot;) which I think will do well outside, but I'm not sure what type of drying time I'll need, or if I need any at all. There are no glue-ups, just half-lap joints with lag bolts at the intersections. I've never worked with fresh/green wood before, so looking for tips or recommendations. The long sections are 12' and the short connector is 6'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did also plan to use the wood for the posts into the ground (cemented) but might consider something different for the posts (like 4x4 treated SYP)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basing it on this design: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FKlp7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FKlp7.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11867" LastActivityDate="2023-12-13T23:07:45.900" Title="Do I need to dry white oak before it can be used for an outdoor balance beam?" Tags="|lumber|outdoor|wood-drying|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13665" CreationDate="2022-03-17T18:51:28.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I work on furniture for customers so risking it is not worth it for 50-60$. Would you recommend replacing them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like the essential issue here is that you don't feel confident that low temperatures won't affect the material. I'm sure you wouldn't ask about a box of nails left in your truck in freezing temperatures because everybody knows that freezing won't affect nails at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of just replacing the epoxy because you aren't sure, I think you'd be better off getting the information you need to &lt;em&gt;know&lt;/em&gt; whether freezing might have any adverse effect on either part of the epoxy. I hate to say &amp;quot;go look it up,&amp;quot; but that really is the best approach -- every brand of epoxy I've used has a FAQ somewhere on the manufacturer's web site that answers questions about storage, working temperature, etc. Go find the answers for the specific product you're using, and then you'll know whether there's any risk of decreased effectiveness at all after freezing. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.westsystem.com/instruction-2/epoxy-basics/cold-temperature-bonding/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's an article&lt;/a&gt; for West System epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-03-17T18:51:28.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13678" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-18T03:13:54.403" Score="3" ViewCount="297" Body="&lt;p&gt;I over-designed this workbench and ended up with this terrible piece of wood. Don't ask - let's just play: 'how would you cut this?'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best idea I have is to chisel it out with a moderately sharp Dewalt 1&amp;quot; chisel.  However, given that I don't have a great way to support this piece, that will likely end up mostly bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would you do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NdtZv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NdtZv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11837" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-03-18T05:40:42.043" LastActivityDate="2022-03-28T20:56:00.693" Title="How can I cut this notch?" Tags="|joinery|cutting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13678" CreationDate="2022-03-18T05:36:10.457" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best idea I have is to chisel it out with a moderately sharp dewalt 1&amp;quot; chisel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is primarily a chiselling job, all such shaping is. And a 1&amp;quot; chisel would be a sane choice for the work, guessing the dimensions of the piece&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;em&gt;Moderately&lt;/em&gt; sharp though, not so much — you want to give chisels your absolute best sharpening efforts. Lots of prior Q&amp;amp;As here if you need help upping your sharpening game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can saw off the majority of the waste if you can or want (simply because it reduces the amount of work needing to be done by chiselling) but this could be done entirely by chisel if preferred. I would however recommend mostly establishing the bottom or shoulder with a saw cut. If you happen to have an oscillating multi-tool this could be one of those rare opportunities to use it for its unique plunge-cutting action!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that you can split/chop the bulk off and then carefully pare the last of the wood away. Pay attention to the run of grain as you work so the chisel doesn't 'dive'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case it does need to be emphasised job #1 here is careful marking out! You need accurate layout lines to pare towards, very very much so if this needs to be a close fit to mating pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, given that I don't have a great way to support this piece, that will likely end up mostly bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've got to arrange some kind of solid workholding to do this sort of thing. If you're doing the initial sawing by hand just the vertical saw cuts would be challenging to complete if the workpiece can't be held firmly, but it will be an absolute nightmare trying to chisel into a piece that's moving around on you, and you could easily cut yourself as a result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I presume you have some clamps already, so just try to figure out a clamping arrangement that fixes this to something reasonably sturdy&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. This could even be something like a chair, and you can kneel on the seat to help keep the chair from moving as you work, or possibly push it into the corner of the room so it can't move away from you at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have any clamps yet don't despair, if necessary you can use a twist of rope or strong cord, along with a stick for winding and/or some wedges to take up slack, to provide good clamping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does it &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; need to be this shape?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Doing this would certainly be a good exercise in chisel work, which you might relish as a learning experience. But obviously it's needlessly complex for what is in essence a utility piece — a workbench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just be sure you can't redesign whatever joint this forms a part of, to be a more sensible, straightforward joint that won't potentially form a stumbling block in the middle of construction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; It's always best to use the largest chisel available for any given job, which is why I bought an inexpensive 2&amp;quot; chisel when I had the chance..... this remains the only chisel I bought new :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; When I first started out and didn't have a vice, I would regularly clamp a substantial piece of wood to the top of my Workmate and then clamp to that, to provide as close to a vice-like grip as I could get on vertical pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-03-18T05:36:10.457" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13678" CreationDate="2022-03-18T14:15:14.807" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a job for a chisel, but not a chisel alone. Lay out the 6 cut lines on the surface of the uncut timber, and then use a sharp handsaw to cut close to the lines that join at the three outside corners of the waste area. Then you can carefully chisel out the remaining gross waste by cutting the cross grain cuts a bit at a time, followed by long grain cuts to remove significant pieces. Finally, pare to the lines to get your final conformation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Needless to say, sharp matters a great deal here. Time spent getting that 1&amp;quot; chisel razor sharp will be repaid when you start cutting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want a solid surface to work on, and a clamp to hold your stock.   A heavy table or tool surface is fine. If you don't have a clamp, I'd recommend getting an Irwin Quick-Grip style bar clamp, or its equivalent. You'll never regret having it in your shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It'd be very worth your time to take a look at a few of Dylan Iwakuni's videos on YouTube to get a sense for how complex joinery cuts can be made with just a saw and sharp chisels before going hammer and blade at this. My description is probably hard to follow; his demonstrations are not, and are woodworking poetry in the bargain.   You won't get his precision results with the tools you've got, but with a little patience, you can get very close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11864" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-03-18T14:35:15.173" LastActivityDate="2022-03-18T14:35:15.173" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13676" CreationDate="2022-03-18T15:02:22.137" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to dry white oak before it can be used for an outdoor balance beam?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think so yes. Green wood, and very much green oak, &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; used for building things but I don't think this project is a good fit for using it for multiple reasons, but perhaps most importantly because of various safety concerns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One face of each beam is intended to be a walking surface, and there's no way to ensure that surface remains flat. And as the wood shrinks from green to air-dry over the next few years it will inevitably crack — and the number, severity &lt;em&gt;and position&lt;/em&gt; of the cracks can't be predicted — so it's just a throw of the dice whether you'll get one forming on the top face of one or more of the members.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And be under no illusion of just how large the cracks can get. If any of the pieces have 'boxed heart' you can almost guarantee you'll get a radial crack (AKA &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.timberframes.ca/images3/check.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;heart check&lt;/a&gt;) and on 6x6s these can certainly be wide enough to trap a small fingertip or toe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some photos to show how bad the cracks in thick oak members can be, and this is even with management (in a mill's yard) or under cover/indoors, not uncovered in the open air and left to their own devices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PwFxp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PwFxp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cracks in air-dried green oak&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I really &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; use dried wood for this, then I'll have to find a different lumber source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously building this from dried oak would be a different story, but I doubt it's going to be economically viable in the current lumber market. Although there could be significant local variation the latest I heard (about two weeks ago) typical lumber prices have risen again to roughly double pre-Covid levels; and oak of these dimensions would already have been pricey before!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for cost, availability and reliability reasons I'd suggest just going with with pressure-treated SYP as you were considering using for the posts. This sort of wood is what is most commonly employed in the construction of playground equipment anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-03-23T21:02:04.793" LastActivityDate="2022-03-23T21:02:04.793" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13676" CreationDate="2022-03-18T17:28:48.853" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot depends on the nature of the wood you have.   Everything @Graphus says about checking is true, but ... if the wood you have does not have boxed heart, and is reasonably close to quarter sawn in its composition, and it's really White Oak, then you'd be fine going with green wood.   Quarter saw White Oak is unlikely to check more than minimally, and will remain structurally sound if it does.   I've got White Oak fence boards that were put up green 45 years ago, and those that are pure long grain (quarter sawn) are still strong, and while quite weathered, not seriously checked or split.   Those with knots, flat or short grain are long since caput.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So short answer: I'd go ahead if and only if you have quarter sawn lumber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11864" LastActivityDate="2022-03-18T17:28:48.853" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13686" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-19T17:29:25.437" Score="0" ViewCount="178" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a cabinet carcass that I am wanting to fit drawers in, however I'm a little unsure about it and seeking some advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My carcass is 710mm tall with 18mm base and spacer, so the height for drawer runners is 710 - (2 x 18) = 674mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have bought some of the Hafele metal drawer system drawers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ta1lhm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ta1lhm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have 2 x &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.toolstation.com/hafele-metal-drawer-system/p65646&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;150mm tall drawers&lt;/a&gt; and 2 x &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.toolstation.com/hafele-metal-drawer-system/p41223&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;86mm drawers&lt;/a&gt;, they didn't come with any instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also bought some &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Soft-Close-Drawer-Upgrade/p/122945&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;soft close adapters&lt;/a&gt; to make these slides close softly, where a tab is screwed onto the bottom of the drawer box and this catches the spring mechanism to provide a controlled close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jmwF6m.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jmwF6m.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These came with some instructions - However it seems to assume that I have bought a specific panel that has pre-drilled holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zJSJ7m.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zJSJ7m.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, my kitchen drawers (coincidentally) actually appear to use a similar system to the components I'd bought above! Same height drawers, same type of soft close and everthing! These appear to use the soft close adapters the same way that the instructions suggest - upside-down... I understand that this is to minimise the wasted space fitting them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The soft-close instructions actually show how far from the top that the adapters should be, however I'm not sure if these are going to accommodate my design for how many drawers I have...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have 4 drawers, but I would be perfectly happy if I could only use 3. I do however want to make sure that I have 2 of the deeper drawers on the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anybody offer some advice?&#xA;Should this perhaps have best been asked on the DIY stackexchange?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8149" LastActivityDate="2022-03-19T17:29:25.437" Title="Correctly spacing drawer runners (with soft close mechanism)" Tags="|drawer|drawer-construction|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5073" CreationDate="2022-03-19T20:13:47.150" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve had the same problems. I noticed saw blades, and their teeth, getting thinner, weaker, cheaper, which of course, lower quality.  All the brands seem to have gone over seas and cheap!&#xA;The only solution I’ve found is to buy a steel cutting blade, same 7.5 or 7.25 inch blade and 5/8 arbor, but noticeably thicker stock and thicker teeth.  That, plus using a clamped guide seems to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11877" LastActivityDate="2022-03-19T20:13:47.150" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13688" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-20T16:13:31.827" Score="1" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an air extractor that I used for a grow room and was wondering if I could convert it into a dust collector for the shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the extractor:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://ventilation-system.com/product/vk-200#characteristic&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://ventilation-system.com/product/vk-200#characteristic&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is rated for 780m^3/h (459 CFM).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have a couple of big 200L (50 gallon) drums and several meters of soft ducting (the silver corrugated type)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to hang the extractor from the 3,5m (11.5ft) ceiling and run ductwork down the wall to a 200L (50 gallon) drum (used as a separator), and from there run a flexible hose that I can hook up to different tools as I use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite the shop's 38 m^2 (409 sq ft) area, I only produce dust in a small section, so I don't really need complicated duct work running to lots of areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my air extractor suitable for dust collection with this setup or any other setup?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11880" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2022-03-21T20:52:14.907" LastActivityDate="2022-03-21T21:02:03.857" Title="Can I use a grow room air extractor as a dust collector?" Tags="|dust-collection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13688" CreationDate="2022-03-21T01:19:58.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The size of the fan you refer to is about right for a small (single machine) dust collector.    Most home shop machines require 600 or so m^3/hr flow.   A thickness planer could easily require 1000.   Your machine is rated at just under 900.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it could provide the air flow source.   Your task then would be to build an adequately sized cyclone, collection, and air filtration system.   Certainly doable, but I'm not certain you'd save much over buying a similarly sized dust extractor straight up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11864" LastActivityDate="2022-03-21T01:19:58.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13690" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13691" CreationDate="2022-03-22T13:05:21.713" Score="2" ViewCount="1106" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend gave me a sample of a common waterproofing/ moisturizing/ protectant containing equal parts boiled linseed oil, beeswax, and turpentine, which makes a paste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there danger of the rags used to apply this combusting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would think not, since the oil doesn't seem to need to dry-- the paste/wax is usually heated with a hair dryer/ heat gun to cause it to absorb into the cloth or wood to which it's applied, and the rags simply have a paste residue, but better safe than sorry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11887" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-03-23T11:26:46.407" LastActivityDate="2022-03-23T11:26:46.407" Title="Is a mixture containing boiled linseed oil still a spontaneous-combustion hazard?" Tags="|safety|boiled-linseed-oil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13690" CreationDate="2022-03-22T14:27:27.277" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have more or less answered your own question at the end: &amp;quot;Better safe than sorry.&amp;quot;   Treat the rags as potentially combustible.   Spontaneous combustion is not caused by drying per se, but by heat generated by oxidation of the oil, which occurs during drying, and can be sped up by so-called drying agents.   The boiled linseed oil remains subject to exothermic oxidation after combining.  If the turpentine is a mineral-oil based product, it isn't subject to spontaneous exothermic oxidation itself, but it could still act to speed up the process in the linseed oil.   If it's real turpentine, derived from distilling pine, it's also a risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my shop, all rags with oil residues are considered potentially dangerous and handled appropriately (which for me means, if I think I might want to re-use the rag, hanging it so that it dries in a single layer with good circulation, so no heat build up can occur, and if not, tossing into the woodstove, where combustion is not a problem).   I know it's overkill - most of them contain mineral products only, and won't spontaneously ignite, but, as you said, better safe than sorry, and by making it a rule and habit, I reduce the risk of an overlooked truly dangerous situation slipping through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11864" LastActivityDate="2022-03-22T14:27:27.277" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13690" CreationDate="2022-03-22T17:04:35.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You very much want to err on the side of caution here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there danger of the rags used to apply this combusting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;All&lt;/em&gt; commercial finishing products containing boiled linseed oil have a safety warning similar to that given with straight boiled linseed oil, about the potential for spontaneous combustion in any rags contaminated with the product&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is true even when there's a relatively small amount of BLO in the original mixture, and/or when the mixture contains wax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dry the rags flat on the floor or draped in a single layer over the back of a chair, a railing etc. until noticeably stiffened. After this they are safe to dispose of in your domestic waste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would think not, since the oil doesn't seem to need to dry&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you don't use the product up quickly enough that this is avoided you'll see that the mixture in the container will skin over, the top surface becoming kind of leathery&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This shows clearly that even in a mixture such as this the drying oil component stays true to its nature, polymerising in the presence of oxygen, and it is this oxidation that can lead to fires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Note that this means &lt;em&gt;both the application and wiping off&lt;/em&gt; rags/paper towels, so even a relatively small amount in the cloth/paper is considered potentially hazardous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; I saw this in my homemade oil &amp;amp; wax finish made with food-grade walnut oil, and walnut oil has a noticeably lower drying potential than even raw linseed oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-03-22T17:04:35.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13695" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13697" CreationDate="2022-03-23T18:34:00.263" Score="2" ViewCount="697" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on making a shoe rack/bench, and have been trying to figure out the best approach to cutting the corners on these 46&amp;quot; wide shelves:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JhSCg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JhSCg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shoe Rack&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've made something similar in the past, and cut out the corners with a jigsaw, but I was not happy with the results. I now have a table saw and handheld router, but can't figure out a way to make these cuts consistently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y87GZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y87GZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Board&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't attempted it, but I'm pretty sure that using a dado stack on my table saw is not feasible with something this long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gFsy5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gFsy5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Table saw cuts&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another idea I had would be to clamp up the bottom two shelves and use a straight cut router bit with a guide – but consistency might be a challenge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hOpLy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hOpLy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Router cuts&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there another approach that would make sense for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11892" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-03-23T19:52:53.050" LastActivityDate="2022-03-23T20:28:36.657" Title="What are my options for cutting notches in the corners of large shelves?" Tags="|tools|tool-selection|cutting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13696" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-23T19:57:40.777" Score="1" ViewCount="1009" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some overstock of some baltic birch plywood and 1&amp;quot; MDF and I'd like to make some wood cribs similar to the ones in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.stevesnovasite.com/threads/diy-wood-wheel-cribs-car-stands.672153/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this forum&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TryNG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TryNG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My intention is to sandwich a 12&amp;quot;x12&amp;quot;x1&amp;quot; piece of my MDF with my ply.  Is face gluing these surfaces with Titebond original a good option?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since these will live in the garage, I'd like to properly seal them as well.  I live in a 4 season climate, so humidity will be a problem as well as the occasional splashing of water when washing cars or if it's a windy rainy day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of how I envision the cribs to look.  They will be in the neighborhood of 4&amp;quot; tall, so I will likely build 3 units per each of the 4 tires.  This way I won't be lifting each tire 12&amp;quot; at a time.  This also presents another potential safety concern, stacking 3 of these 12&amp;quot;x12&amp;quot;x4&amp;quot; units on top of each other, any suggestions on locking them in to keep the flat surfaces from sliding under load?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uoK0e.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uoK0e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11894" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2022-03-24T15:46:09.523" LastActivityDate="2022-03-24T15:46:09.523" Title="wooden wheel cribs - car stands" Tags="|glue|plywood|mdf|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13695" CreationDate="2022-03-23T20:25:15.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three main approaches here: table saw, router table and by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Table saw&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This is not a particularly difficult job on the table saw, with a well-made crosscut sled and dado stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some additional support to the left of the blade&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; would be helpful, but all you really have to do is firmly clamp the workpieces to the rear fence on the sled if you're careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could do this on the TS without either a crosscut sled or dado stack, if you take your time and pay attention, and as long as you can attach a tall fence to your mitre gauge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Router (table)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Using the router table is arguably not the ideal way to do this, regardless if it's basic or fully featured, because of the amount of support the long shelves require. But it is doable especially if you can arrange additional support to the left and ideally can clamp the workpieces to a tall fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another idea I had would be to clamp up the bottom two shelves and use a straight cut router bit with a guide – but consistency might be a challenge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consistency with a router in this sort of situation is merely a matter of careful setup and firmly clamping your stop(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But a straight-cutting router bit will naturally leave rounded inside corners on your notches. You will have to either go with these, and round the relevant arris on your frame&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, or square those round corners on the shelves by chisel or with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HZyxm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;corner chisel&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;By hand&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;These are bread and butter for hand tools, saw and chisel. After careful marking out of course, you saw the bulk of the waste away and then (if necessary) pare to your layout lines; if your sawing is very good all you'll be using the chisel for is cleaning up the inside corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Traditionally you might be advised to gang the shelves together and do each corner of all of them together in one go, but many people would prefer to do this one at a time. Takes longer but much less chance of a screw-up that affects more than one shelf!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Assuming the fence is at the right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Another possibility is to lean into it and round all of them to add an unusual feature to your shelves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-03-23T20:25:15.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13695" CreationDate="2022-03-23T20:28:36.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have good and are reasonably comfortable with hand tools, that'd be your first option.   You should be able to saw the corner notches very nearly to the line with a carcass or good Japanese Dozuki or Kataba, and then pare to the line with a sharp chisel.   If you're not fully adept with those tools, do some learning notches on scraps to get a feel for what works.   Someone who regularly works with tools can build the required muscle memory and skill to get very solid results quite quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really don't want to go the hand saw route, consider sawing with your jigsaw using a fine tooth blade nearly to the line, and then cleaning up with a paring chisel cut, as above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both cases above, if the chiseling is intimidating, consider using a clamped guide block on both sides of the cut, and a wide chisel.   This can be a real skill and confidence builder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are determined to go all the way with power tools,and have a bandsaw and supports adequate the for the large shelves, then the corner cuts are very simply fence guided notches.   With a an appropriate blade, this would get you fast, reliable results.   Assuming you don't have bandsaw, I would seriously consider building a router jig that clamps to the shelf to provide a flat surface perpendicular to the shelf - similar to a mortice jig for routers - and cut them that way.   That'll give you the control you need to get a good router cut.   You'll also want to clamp to the line of the cut on both sides of the plywood to prevent the router bit blowing out the veneer on the shelf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I most definitely would not try to make the cuts with a table saw, using either a dado head or blade.   You cannot control the sheet good adequately to safely and accurately make those cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11864" LastActivityDate="2022-03-23T20:28:36.657" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13699" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-24T01:44:34.003" Score="2" ViewCount="3654" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been working on a birch butcher block desk. I stained the desk then waited 24 hours before applying my first coat of brush-on satin polyurethane. I applied two coats of brush-on poly (24 hours between coats with a light sanding), but noticed brush strokes and bubbles in both coats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then added three coats of wipe-on satin polyurethane with a white cotton t-shirt (24 hours between coats with a light sanding; can shaken before use). However, each time the wipe-on poly dried, I noticed streaks in the finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To test, I added another coat to the bottom of the desk, this time thinning my wipe-on polyurethane with some mineral spirits. However, I have the same effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are there any suggestions for fixing these streaks?&lt;/strong&gt; I've considered (a) sanding then buffing/polishing (b) trying brush-on poly again (c) trying a spray polyurethane from a can and (d) applying another coat of wipe-on poly but wiping off the excess before it dries. Any help is appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NAnmo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NAnmo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Streaks in wipe-on polyurethane&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11896" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2022-03-24T10:57:24.660" LastActivityDate="2022-03-24T20:53:11.210" Title="How can I fix or avoid streaks with wipe-on polyurethane?" Tags="|finishing|polyurethane|butcher-block|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13699" CreationDate="2022-03-24T20:53:11.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The title is really two separate queries in one that, while linked, can be treated separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I &lt;em&gt;avoid&lt;/em&gt; streaks with wipe-on polyurethane?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With any varnish of reduced sheen, i.e. not high gloss, the main recommendation is to ensure thorough mixing. The matting agent (often very fine silica particles) invariably settles to the bottom of the container and &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; thorough mixing — can't stress this enough — or shaking is needed to ensure it is distributed evenly through the liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; normally you are specifically advised not to shake varnishes and various waterbased clear finishes but wiping varnish is an exception since the application method means no bubbles can survive in the applied coating&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be able to fix this with a further application of the wiping varnish as you've indicated in the Comments you're going to try, but failing that all is not lost and that's covered in the other part of the title.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I &lt;em&gt;fix&lt;/em&gt; streaks with wipe-on polyurethane?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although this can be a little trickier with satin and matt varnishes than gloss, you can generally alter (and simultaneously even up) the sheen of varnishes by rubbing down in various ways, &lt;em&gt;after they have had sufficient time to harden&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't something you can expect to do the day after the final coat went on, possibly not even the end of the week. The people who do this professionally tend to err on the side of caution and wait 10 days to a couple of weeks, and sometimes longer&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rubbing down (abrasion)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The general process to lower the sheen is to introduce scratches in a controlled way. These days this is most often done by rubbing with steel wool, Scotch-Brite or similar, or by very fine sanding. Traditionally this was often done using ground pumice or 'rottenstone' (very finely ground limestone) which are still available today if you ever want to experiment with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This process can be done wet as often advised in books, with soapy water or 'light oil' (these days it's common to use mineral spirits, WD-40 or a light mineral oil), in the case of steel wool in particular lubricated with paste wax, or completely dry. Doing it wet you can imagine the importance of working on a well-hardened varnish to avoid issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm personally a fan of steel wool for this purpose although some consider it obsolete, and generally recommend Scotch-Brite/an equivalent. While I don't think they work as similarly as some claim there's no denying that the results can be impossible to tell apart, and since results are all that matter pick whichever appeals to you the most. If using steel wool I would recommend 0000 (four-ought). If using Scotch-Brite the white, although grey might work OK with a light touch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to try it with abrasive paper use nothing coarser than 400 grit (~P600), and you might want to finish with 600 (roughly P1000).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's more to any version of this process than can easily be described here so I advise a little further research if you've never done anything like it before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wax&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You &lt;em&gt;do not&lt;/em&gt; need to wax afterwards; varnishes in good condition do not need to be waxed. However, you can also try this as a means to further unify the surface finish if whatever you tried from the above didn't give quite the result you wanted; but as ever with wax, bear in mind this will need to be maintained for the life of the piece&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Many/most being burst during application (depending on the method chosen) and more (possibly all) are burst at the wiping-off stage. Additionally the very thin nature of the varnish means that any surviving ones can easily burst on their own — one of the standard pieces of advice to reduce bubbles in brush-applied finishes is to thin slightly to increase the chance that bubbles can rise to the surface rather than being trapped in the viscous film.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; It might be surprising but this is not necessarily because they were taught this, often it's because they learned the hard way what happens if they try to rush it :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Rewax 1-2 times a year depending on the amount of use the desk sees. Prefer paste wax over any liquid wax. If you're at all interested you can easily make your own paste wax at home, basic directions given at the bottom of &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1476/table-saw-top-treatment/1484#1484&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-03-24T20:53:11.210" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13701" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-25T01:08:35.710" Score="3" ViewCount="757" Body="&lt;p&gt;My students are making plywood shields / Coat of Arms.  I'm hoping to cut costs as much as possible.  So my plan is to use strips of fabric or fake leather to make an arm band on the back. My question is: Could I staple-gun fabric to 1/8&amp;quot; plywood, or would there not be enough material for the staples to catch on?  1/4&amp;quot; plywood raises the cost by 50%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the staple gun wouldn't work, does anybody have suggestions on how to attach some form of handle solidly to the back of 1/8&amp;quot; plywood?  Ideally, we wouldn't be drilling through to the front of the shields. Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2565" LastActivityDate="2022-03-26T15:33:40.297" Title="Fastening handle to 1/8 inch plywood" Tags="|technique|plywood|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13701" CreationDate="2022-03-25T02:28:42.733" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Contact cement.  I use Barge brand.  It is used to glue soles on shoes.  Should be plenty strong for your application if you let it cure to full strength before applying too much stress to the bonds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are willing to drill through, then you can use hollow rivets to give some mechanical strength to the bond.  Rivets are were one of the main ways of fastening metal for a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2022-03-25T02:28:42.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13701" CreationDate="2022-03-25T02:52:33.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I might try a combination of glue and staples using wooden blocks to add some thickness for the staples to bite into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take some thinner wood blocks (maybe 1/2&amp;quot; thick) and wrap the leather/cloth handle strip around a couple of blocks using glue. Then staple the block (along with the leather) and with some more glue to the plywood shield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wrap the strip all the way around the wood and overlap it on the back side using glue all around. Then send a staple (from the front side of the shield through the two thicknesses of leather and into the backer block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd think that common wood glue would be sufficient for this task, but you could go with epoxy, contact cement, construction adhesive, or hide glue if that's what you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2022-03-26T15:33:40.297" LastActivityDate="2022-03-26T15:33:40.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13701" CreationDate="2022-03-25T11:53:59.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Staples could work well here, although I wouldn't use them in isolation — think belt and braces. Use glue as well as this will &lt;em&gt;significantly&lt;/em&gt; strengthen things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The staples&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Stapling is now commonly used to hold together a variety of items including things like fruit boxes, which often have strips of thin solid wood or plywood stapled to corner blocks. Despite how thin the wood is this construction is fairly durable in service, although of course this sort of thing is not built to withstand a lot of continual wear and tear and the staples can sometimes pull through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With 1/8&amp;quot; (3mm) plywood you're likely dealing with three-ply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One detail I feel is important with three-ply is the orientation of the staples. You want to give the staples the best hold in the wood. Notice the grain of the two surface plies is oriented the same way (this will be at right angles to the core ply). Ensure your staples are either at 90° or 45° to the grain, not aligned with it — the staples could easily split or pull too deeply into the grain if in line with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The glue&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I think it is highly advisable to use a little glue here as well. Just one dab per attachment point could double the strength, possibly more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you probably think of as 'wood glue' is a form of PVA, and PVA works extremely well with paper, cloth and leather as you might already know. It also bonds wood very strongly — creating joints literally stronger than the wood itself if done properly. So it will strongly bond any combination of these materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With wood it is advisable to lightly abrade the surface just prior to applying the glue, a few passes with a scrap of sandpaper or a clean nylon scrubbie is sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The quality of the ply&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This might unfortunately be the weak link in the chain. Much modern plywood is not of great quality (a trend that has been continuing for decades); if you're buying plywood of unknown provenance all bets are off, but even if you use Baltic birch plywood it's not all created equal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what I'm saying is even if you do everything right you might not get the durability you'd hope for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-03-25T11:53:59.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13705" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13706" CreationDate="2022-03-25T18:02:44.293" Score="4" ViewCount="1455" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems that my drill bits are often a bit too short to drill the full pilot hole to cover the whole length of my screw. The screws I use aren't particularly thin, they are regular width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I fix this by redoing the drilling in my secondary board. But that is annoying, I just want to clamp everything down and do the pilot hole through the two boards in one go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal that the drill bits are a bit short to cover the length of a screw? It's just a vanilla Bosch drill and the drill bits that came with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen special long length drill bits but I don't want to go out and buy exotic drill bits if there is a simpler solution, or brands with slightly longer drill bits, I miss just a tiny bit of length, not much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11905" LastEditorUserId="11905" LastEditDate="2022-03-25T18:15:49.057" LastActivityDate="2022-03-25T21:29:32.470" Title="Why are drill bits often too short for a pilot hole" Tags="|drill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13705" CreationDate="2022-03-25T18:19:01.787" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &amp;quot;tiny bit of length&amp;quot; difference between the depth of the pilot hole and the length of the screw shouldn't be a problem in most cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The harder the wood, the more critical this may become, as hardwoods can split more easily if you just drive a screw without a pilot hole. However, even in hardwood, if your pilot hole is just shorter than the screw, it shouldn't be a problem.&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're spending money on hardwoods, it may well be worth the investment to buy a few longer bits for pilot holes anyway.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure that you're actually drilling a clearance hole through the top board. A clearance hole is the same size as the screw threads, not the screw shank. This will allow the screw to clamp the two boards tightly together as the head of the screw will act as the clamp for the &amp;quot;top&amp;quot; board and the threads won't be biting into the top board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you countersink the hole to allow the screw head to sit flush with the surface or even below the surface so you can put a plug in to hide the screw head, you can redrill the pilot hole and the jaws of the chuck will sit into the countersink giving you just a bit more depth to the pilot hole.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2022-03-25T18:19:01.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13705" CreationDate="2022-03-25T21:29:32.470" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just want to clamp everything down and do the pilot hole through the two boards in one go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The holes in the two boards should be different sizes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a clearance hole sized for the screw's unthreaded shank in the first board (the one closest to the head)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a smaller pilot hole sized for the minor diameter of the screw's thread in the second board&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The threads should normally only bite into the second board. If you use the same bit for both holes, you're probably using one that's both too large for the threads to bite fully, and too small for the shank to fit, making the screw hard to drive and more likely to split the first board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two holes aren't always necessary if the material being attached is soft, or if the screw is designed to be driven without a pilot hole. For normal wood screws in hardwood boards, though, it's a good idea to drill the holes properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are tapered drill bits that are designed to drill both the clearance and pilot holes at once, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/power-tool-accessories/drill-bits/101316-drill-bit-countersink-counterbore-units&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;you can even get them with countersink cutters&lt;/a&gt; so you can save the countersink step too. The bits are sized for wood screws (#8, #10, etc.), and each size should be long enough to handle screws in the range of lengths for the corresponding size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-03-25T21:29:32.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13709" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-26T15:29:17.417" Score="0" ViewCount="794" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a free (haha) or inexpensive tool to unfold/unroll 3D models to get sewing patterns for fabrics. Think couch or chairs upholstery with foam inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.exactflat.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ExactFlat&lt;/a&gt; is a professional tool that does just this. For hobby / starting a business this is way too expensive and also has an overkill of functions.&#xA;I have read the unfold function of Rhino isn't really suitable/accurate for making (complex) sewing patterns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it possible in Rhino, is there other software out there or would you advice another technique to create patterns?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simple couch cushions is something I would like to start with and ultimately I would like to try and make something as complex as this chair:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0FNsp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0FNsp.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11907" LastActivityDate="2022-03-26T20:05:58.853" Title="Software for generating sewing patterns from 3D model for furniture" Tags="|furniture|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2022-03-27T01:01:01.170" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13709" CreationDate="2022-03-26T20:05:58.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ideally, if this question is closed, it would be migrated to an appropriate location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://tamasoft.co.jp/pepakura-en/productinfo/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pepakura Designer&lt;/a&gt; will do as you suggest. Aimed primarily to paper crafters, it takes a 3D design, flattens it and provides fold/cut/glue location. US$38 for a license seems inexpensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pepakura Designer supports common 3DCG file formats, including OBJ,&#xA;3DS, and STL&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2022-03-26T20:05:58.853" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13711" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-27T10:23:10.210" Score="5" ViewCount="587" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a completely new amateur woodworker, starting out with hand tools. To begin with, I want to get my new tools nice and sharp. I've been trying very hard to flatten (lap?) the back of my plane iron (it's one of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.axminstertools.com/blade-for-axminster-rider-no-4-5-planes-506541?queryID=c5192a2f7ed411b5ebcf2bc4c53881b2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;), but there is a triangular region where I can't seem to be able to get rid of the machining marks --- see picture below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started with a diamond lapping plate (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/Faithfull-DWTRIPLE-Diamond-Whetstone-Multi-Colour/dp/B07XBL9MNC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;) but progress was very slow so I switched to some coarse silicon carbide paper (120 grit) on a glass lapping plate, but it is still agonisingly slow. After hours at it, I can't truly tell if I'm making any progress at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid I don't have access to (or space for) any machinery to grind the blade. What can I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read a bit about the 'ruler trick', I'm a bit reluctant to do it because I don't like the idea of the tiny bevel on the back, but I'll do it if that's the only way!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please let me know if there is any further information I can provide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YDD0Z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YDD0Z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture of plane blade back&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11908" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-04-03T16:02:46.713" LastActivityDate="2022-04-03T16:10:26.743" Title="How to flatten stubborn hollow on the back of a plane iron?" Tags="|hand-tools|plane|tool-maintenance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13711" CreationDate="2022-03-27T14:16:36.160" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no reason to get the entire back of the blade perfect flat and polished - you only need the area from the cutting edge to just behind the chip breaker.   I typically flatten about 3/4 to 1&amp;quot; of the blade back.   To focus on that part, you don't really need &amp;quot;the ruler trick&amp;quot; - just hang the rest of the blade off the edge of your stone or sandpaper.   If you limit your grinding area to the leading edge, things flatten out a LOT faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the valley is fairly deep, I wouldn't hesitate to go coarser than 120 grit with the sandpaper.    I've used grits as coarse as 80 for old plane irons and chisels that needed a lot of work (and old irons often do - they were never ground truly flat in the factory).   In extreme cases, I've ground on the flat side of a bench grinder to remove lands on the leading inch or two of a blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11864" LastActivityDate="2022-03-27T14:16:36.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13711" CreationDate="2022-03-27T19:21:29.287" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to flatten stubborn hollow on the back of a plane iron?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't have to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you alter your strategy here things will go a lot faster. And I mean &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt;, something that can otherwise take an hour in the worst cases can be cut to just a few minutes. Or less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 1: coarser surface&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You've already done the first thing I would recommend if the initial setup of the back of the iron is going too slowly and that's switching to a coarser surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;400 grit is &lt;em&gt;way&lt;/em&gt; too fine for this job, and frankly it's a silly grit for manufacturers to offer at the coarse end of a progression of grits sold for the maintenance of woodworking tools&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the back is already flat it's totally fine to just start at a middling grit, but if you need to address some out-of-flat situation like here it immediately highlights how inadequate it is for the process. Even 250, which a few sets offer, is not ideal. And this despite diamonds being so much more aggressive than almost anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 2: concentrate your effort&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;But THE thing that'll speed this process up is this: &lt;em&gt;ignore most of the back&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rest of the back of the iron isn't involved in the cutting, only the part right at the cutting edge has anything to do with it. So many people have wasted hours of their lives lapping surfaces flat that have A, no immediate use and B, offering no long-term benefit either!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To briefly describe how I do it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I typically press just a centimetre or two (less than an inch) of the iron flat against the honing surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I use the fingers of my left hand to press down firmly at the edge, my right hand loosely grasping the body of the iron providing the back-and-forth motion.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;IF necessary, I apply &lt;em&gt;very gentle&lt;/em&gt; upwards pressure with my right hand to help concentrate honing right at the edge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am aiming to produce only about &lt;strong&gt;5mm (&amp;lt;1/4&amp;quot;)&lt;/strong&gt; of nicely lapped back when I'm done.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're going to be shocked how fast the process goes once you start doing it this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soon as you're done on the 120 you might think you need to go through the progression of grits provided by your plates but you don't. Switch immediately to the finest plate. This might sound crazy but huge jumps in grit have always been normal in honing, people just didn't think of it this way until the modern era with numbered-grit honing stones and the much wider use of sanding in woodworking. Then all of a sudden the thought of proper grit progression (vital in sanding wood) intruded into honing (a totally different process).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember the catchphrase: &lt;em&gt;honing isn't sanding&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read a bit about the 'ruler trick', I'm a bit reluctant to do it because I don't like the idea of the tiny bevel on the blade back, but I'll do it if that's the only way!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I was in your shoes I didn't like the idea of it either. But I've come to realise there's literally no good reason not to use it if you want to. The small &lt;em&gt;and very shallow&lt;/em&gt; bevel David Charlesworth's trick produces is absolutely nothing to worry about and shouldn't have bothered me early on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The significance of the trick that many people missed (me too!) is that it proved beyond a shadow of a doubt that only a very narrow strip near the cutting edge needs to be prepped for an iron to work as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I'm not saying you should use it. The method I outlined previously has been dubbed by some the &amp;quot;without a ruler trick&amp;quot; :-) and it has the great advantage that it simplifies honing for you forever more. It doesn't matter if you're ever in another workshop and your 6&amp;quot; rule got left at home, it doesn't matter if you are at home and need to hone &lt;em&gt;right now&lt;/em&gt; but the rule is lost in the jumble of shavings at the bottom of your tool well, you can still get your diamond plates out and immediately get going, and have the irons back in the plane and be back to work in less than two minutes once you get practiced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would however suggest you file it away for future use in specific situations. It's excellent for example in helping to prep vintage irons that were neglected for many years, as on many a car-boot find :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The bevel, when you get to it&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;When you get to honing the bevel, again, concentrate your effort where it's needed. And this involves &lt;em&gt;totally ignoring the existing bevel&lt;/em&gt;. By this I mean you again hone the portion that'll be doing the work and nothing else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you need to change it (you won't with a new iron&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;) you literally don't need to touch the ground bevel. This is the primary bevel and in the past it was never touched at the honing stage in Western woodworking. Yet I still see woodworking guru after woodworking guru showing the primary being honed, right before demonstrating to their audience the honing of a secondary bevel which is all that will actually be cutting the wood.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're using a honing guide, set it at 30° and don't look back. If you're freehanding, kudos, just locate the primary bevel on your honing surface (feel for it to sort of click into place), raise the back of the iron a smidge and start honing. The exact angle you hone at isn't important as long as you don't go crazy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're done as soon as you've raised a burr (AKA wire edge) on the back, which might take as few as 10 or a dozen strokes with a Rider iron&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;. Lap the burr off, maybe go back and forth, bevel to back, 1-3 times and you're done unless you are stropping to refine your edge further&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a newly minted woodworker you might gain a lot from these previous Q&amp;amp;As that relate to hand planing:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4133/fettling-a-hand-plane/&quot;&gt;Fettling a hand plane&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4763/different-ways-to-set-up-a-number-4-bench-plane&quot;&gt;Different ways to set up a Number 4 bench plane&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5460/hand-plane-controls-bevel-down&quot;&gt;hand plane controls (bevel down)&lt;/a&gt; (this has the numbers you might be seeking for setting the cap iron)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/7702/mouth-of-a-plane&quot;&gt;Mouth of a Plane&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/10848/what-is-the-difference-between-the-jointer-blade-and-the-smoothing-blade&quot;&gt;What is the difference between the jointer blade and the smoothing blade?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/6708/whats-a-quick-easy-home-made-honing-guide/6712#6712&quot;&gt;What&amp;#39;s a quick, easy home-made honing guide?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1744/recommendation-for-manual-planing-and-sanding&quot;&gt;Recommendation for manual planing and sanding&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; From what I've seen ALL sets are guilty of this, they never go coarse enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Very likely it is ground to 25° (this has long been the industry standard) and you can leave it at that angle permanently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; On softer steel as few as six or seven strokes can be enough. This takes me about 3-4 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt; Which I highly recommend. &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2085/how-can-i-tell-if-leather-is-vegetable-tanned/2087#2087&quot;&gt;No leather required&lt;/a&gt; :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-04-03T16:10:26.743" LastActivityDate="2022-04-03T16:10:26.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13678" CreationDate="2022-03-28T20:50:36.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would you do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there's just one or two of these, I'd probably just go at it with a chisel. If you don't have a proper vise, clamp the part to your workbench and go at it horizontally -- that might be more comfortable anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are more than a few of these, I'd either redesign the part, or find a more consistent way to produce the existing design. It looks to me like the easiest way would be to cut the notch straight across on a band saw, table saw with dado head, router, etc. Then glue in a small triangular prism shape to form the angle. Alternatively, cut a dado across the diagonal, glue in a triangular piece on the left side to form the face that's perpendicular to the left face, and finally cut the dado on the back side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to use a router. You can do all three faces with a router, and get nice crisp corners where two faces meet, &lt;em&gt;except&lt;/em&gt; in that one inside corner where all three meet. You can clean that part up with a chisel, &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; you could leave it be and instead knock the corner off whatever part mates with this one. Since it's an inside corner, it's probably hidden in the final product and nobody will ever see that the inside part isn't perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2022-03-28T20:56:00.693" LastActivityDate="2022-03-28T20:56:00.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13716" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-31T13:23:20.343" Score="2" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace a few of those clapboards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L5IMu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L5IMu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order for them to stack, I need to remove half of the material on the intersecting volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the purpose of the chamfer and the surface #2 ?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dJqv5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dJqv5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The original board in blue, the bare wood board is a work in progress to make the replacement part&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0KktB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0KktB.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PO3UN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PO3UN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clapboards are symmetric about the three origin plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no play in the joint, i.e the width of the joint is exactly equal to the thickness of the board on surface #2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those joints bear no load, as the vast majority of the contact area is on the rest of the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1682" LastEditorUserId="1682" LastEditDate="2022-03-31T16:45:21.983" LastActivityDate="2022-04-01T19:16:04.357" Title="What is the purpose of the chamfer at the ends of this piece of clapboard?" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13716" CreationDate="2022-03-31T15:56:02.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without a bit more detail, it's hard to be sure, but I would say the makers of that joint cut the mating slot into which the crossing board slides narrower than the thickness of the clapboards.   The removal of material at surface 2 is to reduce the thickness of the clapboard in the joint to the width of the mating slot.   The reason someone would do this is that the cut edges of the mating slots are thus recessed in the joint and covered by the crossing clapboard.   I would expect there to be a &amp;quot;surface 2&amp;quot; recessed on both sides of the joint, so both edges are covered.   The &amp;quot;tenon&amp;quot; left between the surfaces has to be the same width as as the slots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do this, then the chamfer you label 1 is actually a miter, and is necessary to remove interference in the interior corner of the joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Edited to add) Actually, what I said above isn't completely correct.   If there the &amp;quot;surface 2&amp;quot; cut you reference is done on both sides of the slot, then all four corners of the slot would require the chamfer/miter.  My pictures don't show this correctly, and are hiding an impossible overlap of wood in three of the corners.  However, if only the inside face of the clapboard have the surface recessed, then only the inside to the face, inside to the length of the clapboard, corner needs to be mitered.   Looking more closely at your pictures, I think that's most likely what is going on.   The joint then assembles as in the third picture, just attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S98TQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S98TQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Outside view&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZRrr6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZRrr6.png&quot; alt=&quot;Inside view&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sXDtA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sXDtA.png&quot; alt=&quot;Correct Joint&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11864" LastEditorUserId="11864" LastEditDate="2022-04-01T19:16:04.357" LastActivityDate="2022-04-01T19:16:04.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13716" CreationDate="2022-04-01T05:36:11.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes chamfers at joints are not for practical purpose but only for appearance, providing 'shadow line'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes chamfers are added to make joints easier to put together, as on inside edges of dovetails, leading edge of tenon or dowel. I think this is purpose here, &lt;strong&gt;to make joints easier to assemble&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastActivityDate="2022-04-01T05:36:11.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2837" CreationDate="2022-04-01T10:07:24.270" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v7pMf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v7pMf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An easily made solution for a dowel centre square is as the attached photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a piece of ply (base) mark a centre line, drill a large hole with a hole saw at one end, and a small hole with a suitable drill about 6&amp;quot; from the centre of the large hole. Draw a tangent line connecting both sides of the holes from the small to the large. Cut out the centre section between both holes along the tangent lines. Cut a straight edged ply cover and fix over half of the base along the centre line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The end of a piece of dowel can be presented under the cover and a centre line drawn. Rotate the dowel 90deg. Mark again to show centre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11919" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2022-04-02T13:22:33.123" LastActivityDate="2022-04-02T13:22:33.123" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13720" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-03T20:09:25.903" Score="3" ViewCount="385" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XXyls.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XXyls.png&quot; alt=&quot;The bed&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d5M66.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d5M66.png&quot; alt=&quot;The fasteners&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a for queen size mattress. I have a shelf system in the head end of the bed. All fasteners are the same and offset vertically so as to avoid screw collision. Top rail pieces are 1x8, bottom rail pieces are 2x8. Corner posts are 3x3x~74 I was contemplating embedding a dowel in each of the rail pieces so that the screws for the fasteners aren't just going straight into end grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/573FF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/573FF.png&quot; alt=&quot;Dowel join&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11927" LastActivityDate="2022-04-05T19:02:37.610" Title="Are these bed rail fasteners enough to hold this bed together?" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13721" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13722" CreationDate="2022-04-04T04:58:57.137" Score="4" ViewCount="465" Body="&lt;p&gt;The kitchen knife-block that I own appears to have been constructed by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Squaring off a large block of wood&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cutting into two opposite sides of the block a number of parallel slots (blind cuts) that run from the top of the block to the bottom. The slots appear to have been cut with a table saw with a 4 mm kerf, and each slot is cut to a depth that suits the blade height of a particular knife&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Covering the whole of each of the two slotted faces of the wooden block with a thin sheet of decorative wood which stops the exposed length of the grooves, and thus holds the knives in place.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to make another, similar block. I'm looking for tips to help prevent the carefully-cut, narrow grooves from becoming clogged with glue when one glues the face-plate on at step 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6309" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-04-04T12:27:40.280" LastActivityDate="2022-04-04T15:29:57.580" Title="Methods to prevent glue from filling narrow grooves during lamination" Tags="|glue|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13721" CreationDate="2022-04-04T08:55:44.357" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Volfram K's suggestion will probably get the best results (and cause the most work): Cut a couple of wood strips 3.95mm thick. Or just slightly thinner than the knife grooves so they still fit when you cover them in something like packing tape so the glue doesn't stick to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try to stuff something else in there which doesn't adhere to the glue but I can't think of anything right now which doesn't stick, is easy to make in the right thickness and won't rip apart when pulling it out...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I wouldn't actually worry about it too much. Just don't use more glue than you need and the squeezeout should be minimal. Afterwards, clean up the first couple of cm with a chisel (if you have one that is small enough to get in there) or a knife. You wont be able to see more than the first few cm and knives usually taper, so fit also shouldn't be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also glue, clamp, and then immediately remove the excess or spread it inside so it doesn't matter. Or cut a chamfer on the edges of the groves (not all the way to the top, so it wont be visible) which can take some of the glue.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Or make some sort of tongue and grove joint and only glue these so you don't get squeezeout in the knife grooves (requires higher precision because you don't have any glue filling small gaps).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just don't use an excessive amount of glue and you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9713" LastActivityDate="2022-04-04T08:55:44.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13721" CreationDate="2022-04-04T13:46:53.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When making knife blocks and similar sorts of glue-up situations there are multiple tricks that can minimise or prevent glue ending up in the milled grooves, and I think it's normal to use a combination rather than attempt to rely exclusively on one because just one can't be guaranteed to be effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Minimal glue&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;First and foremost I think is simply: don't apply too much glue, i.e. not the normal amount one would use when laminating for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally in woodworking you most definitely want to apply at least a slight excess of glue&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, but here you can try to apply &lt;em&gt;just enough&lt;/em&gt;, sacrificing absolute strength for ease of assembly/minimal cleanup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Glue as normal, then wipe the glue from around the grooves&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I've used this basic trick many times, but unfortunately with varying levels of success. So although it sometimes works great IME it isn't a sure-fire way to prevent glue ending up where you don't want it; combine it with another tip or expect to have to clean up some visible glue in the grooves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The normal tool used by woodworkers to wipe excess glue away seems to be a fingertip :-) but a wooden scraper or silicone-rubber spatula could work as well or better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wax or finish the grooves, then assemble twice&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This will only work if the decorative sheet is thick enough to allow it to be separated without being damaged; obviously this trick can't be used if you plan to use anything like a veneer thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here you basically glue as normal, press the parts together, separate them to clean out the glue from the grooves (hence why you wax or apply finish to them beforehand), then bring the parts together one final time and apply full clamping pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may (in fact are likely to) get some minimal squeezeout along the edges of the grooves when full clamping pressure is applied — little drops dotted along the edge — but any you can't reach from the top to clean up will be A) invisible in use and B) very unlikely to be large enough to cause an issue given the very generous sizing of the slots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fill the grooves with something first&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If you fill the grooves with close-fitting strips of plastic, or a fine-grained hardwood (maple would be ideal) well waxed to prevent glue sticking to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This might work well enough by itself that it could be used solo, assuming making the strips of plastic or wood isn't an insurmountable obstacle&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Give somewhere else for the glue to go&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This trick is not new, but seems to be gaining increasing traction in recent years as a method to minimise or eliminate squeezeout when certain joints are assembled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to employ this here I think the way to do it is to create very shallow stopped grooves alongside the knife grooves. The first method to do this that I thought of was to use a router (either hand or powered), but actually just cutting V-grooves using a sharp knife and a straightedge might be all that's needed, and this would be far faster and require no setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use contact adhesive&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I wanted to include this for completeness, although I wouldn't favour this method myself as although the initial bond will be plenty strong I'm not confident it would hold up over the years, plus the glue line might be thicker than you'd really like it to be, so visually intrusive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in its favour, because contact adhesive is applied to both faces and then allowed to dry, you essentially can't get squeezout. Of course you're likely to get some adhesive in the grooves during application, but that's relatively easy to prevent, or remove while the joint is still open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note applicable with any glue used&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I think it's possible this might not be immediately obvious so do bear in mind you wouldn't want to apply glue to the entire of the decorative sheet, because you'd end up with glue on one side of every knife slot. This would be particularly unwanted in the case of contact adhesive since this remains tacky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To prevent this you'll need to carefully mark the positions of the slots on the inside face of the sheet and either mask them off before spreading the glue, or brush around them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Excess glue being mostly — or ideally all — squeezed out as the clamps are fully tightened. This is what gives the best chance of the strongest joint being formed with the two most common woodworking adhesives, yielding no dry spots (AKA 'starved' areas) which are weak points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Impossible or too tedious to be bothered with :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-04-04T13:46:53.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13721" CreationDate="2022-04-04T15:29:57.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for tips to help prevent the carefully-cut, narrow grooves from becoming clogged with glue when one glues the face-plate on at step 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider using cyanoacrylate (CA) glue. CA glues are available in a range of viscosities, and the thin versions tend to soak into wood rather than squeeze out, which is useful for your purposes. CA glues aren't normally used for lamination because they don't allow for a long open time, but it doesn't sound like that should be a problem in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-04-04T15:29:57.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4858" CreationDate="2022-04-05T14:59:09.077" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you sure can. However spraying brush on lacquer based on my own personal experience requires to reduce with lacquer thinner to flow properly with HVLP equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used Minwax brush on lacquer. The techs at Minwax advise NOT to spray brush on lacquer. Due to the fact doing so will increase VOC levels. Volatile organic compounds can and WILL make a person sick. Invest in a quality respirator.I use 3m cartridge type when spraying. Trust me....don't use a Covid type paper mask. Your lungs and life will thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Technique I use:&lt;/strong&gt; My experience use a calibrated mixing cup from a auto paint supply store. Use 3-1 mix. 3 parts laquer to one part lacquer thinner. NOT acetone. Clean strip brand lacquer is what I use. Viscosity is good and the minwax brushing lacquer had retarders in it to slow down dry time. Minwax spray can will dry almost instantly. I used a cheap hvlp from harbor freight detail gun with a 1.0 tip. I do small projects. A 1.3 tip works great as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lacquer lays down and levels rather well. 30 minutes and another coat. Every 3 coats I will use 0000 steel wool lubricated with mineral spirits. The end results will result in a glass smooth finish that will rival the best auto clear coat on the market. And yes....you can use automotive clear coat on wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11930" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2022-04-11T02:12:34.250" LastActivityDate="2022-04-11T02:12:34.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13720" CreationDate="2022-04-05T19:02:37.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these bed rail fasteners enough to hold this bed together?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think there should be any particular reason not to given that holding a bed together is specifically what they are intended to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously the four-poster nature of the design changes things somewhat, but fundamentally the top isn't functional per se, and as essentially a decorative feature the loads imparted to it should be minimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However — as with much furniture — we overbuild for the what-if eventualities, not the best-case scenarios. Based on this you might consider doing away with the bed-rail fasteners for the top joints and keep them for the base only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are multiple joinery options that can be used instead that retain the important knockdown aspect of a bed (so important in beds because of their size). As you're already familiar with cross-dowels and screws why not go with them? These can be used &lt;em&gt;as&lt;/em&gt; your joinery instead of just to reinforce the grip of screws holding other hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use hardwood dowels and go fat&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;They don't have to be especially long, 2&amp;quot; projection from the posts is probably enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Round the tips of the dowels or add a heavy chamfer, this will make putting everything together &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use machine screws or bolts. In addition to these having an even better hold in wood than conventional wood screws (with careful piloting) they are also noted for their ability to be withdrawn and reinserted from wood many times with very little wear to the wood threading&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lubricate your screws with soap, oil or wax before insertion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can successfully force threads into wood (even harder hardwoods) but if you want to avoid the chance of twisting off a screw head you can quite easily convert one or more of your screws and tap the holes, see tip &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1716/how-can-you-make-a-regular-screw-into-a-self-tapping-screw/1735#1735&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to see the screw/bolt heads on the underside of each rail/stile set them in deep counterbores; you have plenty of wood to play with on a 2x8 so they can be particularly deep. Or alternatively use &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SZd2M.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;decorative wood plugs/buttons&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was contemplating embedding a dowel in each of the rail pieces so that the screws for the fasteners aren't just going straight into end grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Screws into end grain aren't as weak as they are commonly made out to be so reinforcement may not be needed. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/7898/endgrain-screw-withdrawal-force&quot;&gt;previous Q&amp;amp;A&lt;/a&gt;. Given screws are generally stronger than the requirement 75% of that strength can be sufficient, and it should be noted that almost everyone using such bed-rail hardware is screwing into end grain, not taking any precautionary steps and subsequent issues are rare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rare isn't unheard of however, so if you want to do something extra for peace of mind go for it! One rarely regrets taking the time to overbuild a piece of furniture that is intended to last.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cross-dowels are an option, but note that normally the dowels go across the width. Here that would require the boring of some very deep holes, so if you go this route I'd suggest using two shorter dowels which will make for a much easier drilling job. Alternatively I'd suggest you simply select longer (and possibly beefier) screws than you would otherwise have gone with. Both increased length and larger gauge increase screw holding strength and both together give a pronounced improvement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do be sure to carefully drill your pilot holes for the wood type you're using, both for max hold and to avoid the chance of splitting the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;strong&gt;hardwoods&lt;/strong&gt; you want the pilot hole larger than in softwoods for obvious reasons. The pilot can be &lt;strong&gt;roughly equal to the minor screw diameter&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;strong&gt;softwoods&lt;/strong&gt; the pilot should be smaller, &lt;strong&gt;approximately 80% of the minor diameter&lt;/strong&gt; should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Softer hardwoods should be piloted more along the lines of softwoods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ideally the pilot hole should be drilled slightly deeper than needed, but in practice this isn't absolutely critical for any screw that has a point unless you're way too shallow or the screws are particularly thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; You won't regret using 5/8&amp;quot; oak dowels here, even if the frame is pine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Even with frequent and regular use they can last &lt;em&gt;years&lt;/em&gt;. On a bed that is taken apart infrequently expect them to last the full lifetime of the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-04-05T19:02:37.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13727" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-06T14:44:04.380" Score="1" ViewCount="772" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a frameless cabinet for an RV with 1/2 cabinet grade plywood. I was planning to use the euro style hinges for a full overlay door but the hole for the cup is deeper than my material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What type of hinge should I use to get a 1/2 inch overlay? I would like the hinge to be concealed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried full and half overlay euro style hinges without success. I added blocking to a test door to try to make the cup fit in the door but wasn't able to get the door to fit right against the cabinet frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have searched various forums for this specific question but haven't been able to find my exact question. I have looked at Rockler and other hardware sites to see if I could find a hinge that looked like it would work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11931" LastEditorUserId="11931" LastEditDate="2022-04-06T21:55:46.520" LastActivityDate="2022-04-07T15:05:32.317" Title="Full overlay hinge with a 1/2 inch cabinet door" Tags="|hinges|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13727" CreationDate="2022-04-07T03:34:14.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For your application, you want a frameless, surface mount, (full) overlay hinge.   They are rather specialty items, but &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wwhardware.com/xxi-surface-mount-concealed-hinge-laxx1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here is an example&lt;/a&gt;, or a higher end version &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rockler.com/175-fully-concealed-hinges&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.   You will need short screws, and may be pushing the holding power of the screws with only 1/2&amp;quot; material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative to those would be semi-concealed &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wwhardware.com/shop-hardware/hinges?cat=872&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Youngdale hinges&lt;/a&gt;.   These can be found for door thicknesses as small as 1/2&amp;quot;, although, again, you might have to source screws other than those packaged with the hinges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11864" LastEditorUserId="11864" LastEditDate="2022-04-07T15:05:32.317" LastActivityDate="2022-04-07T15:05:32.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13729" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13733" CreationDate="2022-04-07T19:05:38.683" Score="2" ViewCount="231" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not a woodworker, so forgive me if I am not using the correct nomenclature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sent a few china cabinets to a furniture restorer to be revarnished. They are really old pieces, between 95 and 100 years old, and we know very little about them: we know they are probably made of some Brazilian wood, as this was my grandmother's father request when he had them made; but that is about it, we do not know which kind of wood, how it was worked, nothing...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, after several attempts of revarnishing the cabinets, the restorer is lost: regardless of how he proceeds, the varnish will bubble soon after applied and become somewhat granulated, not anything like the furniture looked before. As I don't understand woodworking very well, I thought pictures could be helpful, so look below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jpuvC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jpuvC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZklJi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZklJi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My questions are: what could be going on? And most importantly, how to stop the varnish from bubbling on this really old cabinet?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: As Graphus suggested in a comment, I would like to add that the restorer hypothesized that the problem could be, among other possibilities, due to prolonged use of wood polishers, meaning the problem could be &amp;quot;fisheye&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT nº2: Just to give an ending to the story, I showed all solutions brought in the answers to the restorer, who said he was not familiar with any of them and would therefore not attempt them. As the cabinets have been with him for several months, without success, I brought them back as they look like in the pictures; he refused to give me back my money...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11939" LastEditorUserId="11939" LastEditDate="2022-04-10T14:13:15.280" LastActivityDate="2022-04-10T14:13:15.280" Title="New varnish beading/crawling on refinished furniture [poss. silicone contamination]" Tags="|furniture|varnish|restoration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13729" CreationDate="2022-04-07T21:21:32.000" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agree with @Graphus that this looks like fisheye caused by contamination of the wood by silicone containing polishes.   Fixing it, when it's that widespread is a job for a pro finisher.   You've basically got three choices of approach:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After reprepping the piece, use an oil based finish thinned with silicone &amp;quot;oil.&amp;quot;   You want someone who has done this before, who knows the right products to select, and has a sense for how much silicone is necessary.   This has the disadvantage that your whole piece will end up with silicone in the wood, and every future coat/finish will have to be silicone based.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove the silicone using a phosphorous based detergent (TSP).   This is a lot of work - probably as much as stripping in the first place - you have to treat all affected areas thoroughly, probably multiple times, and will then likely have to sand the entire pieces, since the washing process will have raised the grain of the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cover it up.   Shellac and lacquer both can adhere to silicone contaminated wood if properly applied.   Again, a job for a pro who has done it before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a gorgeous piece - Brazilian Walnut, I think, although one can never really tell from pictures of the surface alone.   Worth finding someone with experience of the problem to advise and redo the finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11864" LastActivityDate="2022-04-07T21:21:32.000" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13731" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-07T21:24:43.643" Score="2" ViewCount="145" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a partially covered deck with tongue and groove porch boards. I want to replace them with composite decking. I can't tell if the joists are treated and would be very difficult to replace. My thoughts are to use deck joist tape then a preservative and sealer stain. Any thoughts if they are not treated will they last?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11940" LastActivityDate="2022-04-08T00:06:21.563" Title="Can't tell if my deck joists are treated" Tags="|pressure-treated|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13731" CreationDate="2022-04-08T00:06:21.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;How old is the deck and what condition are the joist in now?  That should tell you a lot about how the deck will hold up. The T&amp;amp;G deck should have limited the penetration of water to the structure below but, when you remove the existing deck replace any joists that are showing signs of rot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that while your new composite deck will not absorb water it may allow more water to drip down in the gaps. I would recommend using a penetrating sealer on the joist framing. I would also consider placing a strips of Tyvek tape or building wrap on top of the joists to protect them before placing the decking. Don't place a continuous layer of wrap across the joists since you want any water to still drain to the ground below. However, covering the tops of the joists and hanging out a couple of inches will direct any water away from the joists and protect the tops which are most vulnerable to standing water. The area below the deck should be ventilated to avoid water condensing in the space below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2022-04-08T00:06:21.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13729" CreationDate="2022-04-08T12:04:17.413" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This appears to be classic &amp;quot;fisheye&amp;quot;, a defect caused by contamination of the surface by silicone oil. In a furniture context the chief source of this is modern furniture polishes, although there are numerous other possible sources these days. Be wary of spray polishes in general and anything that promises a wet-look shine in particular people!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is one of the worst cases I've seen photos of as it seems to involve all the visible surfaces to almost the same level (generally the effect isn't as pronounced and/or is more localised).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given this piece has already undergone certain expected stages in a refinish — stripping of the previous finish (generally followed by some amount of rinsing/wiping off of residues with an organic solvent or water) and then at least a little sanding — it begins to illustrate how difficult it is to remove this contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Standard finishing and refinishing processes must be assumed to &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; be effective, you have to specifically combat it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are various methods used to try to remove the contamination, or seal it in. These include, but are not limited to, the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;cleaning with ammonia&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;cleaning with sodium hydroxide&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;cleaning with TSP;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;rinsing of the surface with hexane&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;rinsing of the surface with xylene&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt;;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;sealing the surface with light coats of shellac.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to highlight how pernicious the contamination can be, you can use &lt;strong&gt;a combination&lt;/strong&gt; of the cleaning steps, being scrupulous about how you use your wiping rags or paper towels&lt;sup&gt;5&lt;/sup&gt;, you can do &lt;strong&gt;multiple rounds&lt;/strong&gt;, AND then apply shellac &lt;strong&gt;and still find you were unsuccessful&lt;/strong&gt; o_O&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This unfortunately leads us to the one technique known to almost always work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Deliberately add silicone oil&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Yes, you actually add silicone oil, or a product containing it such as &amp;quot;fisheye eliminator&amp;quot;, into the new finish. How this works is that it lowers the surface tension of the new finish until it flows evenly over the contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I say unfortunately because although it's effective A) it of course contaminates all the application tools, which may be very difficult or impossible to subsequently clean, much more importantly B) it risks contamination of the refinisher's finishing area &lt;em&gt;and potentially their entire premises&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;6&lt;/sup&gt;  C) pieces treated this way will forever need to be finished the same way, and some refinishers may actually not want to touch it as a result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This, especially in combination with some careful spray methods, is almost guaranteed to successfully combat the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further reading (&lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; a comprehensive overview):&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodworking-tips-1603mar/silicone-contamination-finishing-tip.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Silicone Contamination&lt;/a&gt; on Highland Woodworking.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/flexner-on-finishing-blog/how-to-refinish-wood-after-using-furniture-polish/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fish Eye &amp;amp; Silicone – or, the Problem with Furniture Polish&lt;/a&gt; on Popular Woodworking.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Refinishing_a_SiliconeContaminated_Antique.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Refinishing a Silicone-Contaminated Antique&lt;/a&gt; on Woodweb (be sure to compare and contrast some of the feedback here with Flexner's advice).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.finewoodworking.com/project-guides/finishing/how-to-prevent-fisheyes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Prevent and Eliminate Fisheyes&lt;/a&gt; on Fine Woodworking (note: partially behind paywall).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also see the disclaimer suggested by General Finishes &lt;a href=&quot;https://generalfinishes.com/faq/how-to-remove-silicone-contamination-wood-surface&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;on this page&lt;/a&gt;. It starts with the realistic but depressing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;There are no guarantees with silicone - it is almost impossible to remove.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; This is a risky method when it comes to wood as many wood species are affected by stronger alkalis and change colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; AKA caustic soda or lye. The caution related to ammonia goes double here, and in addition caustic soda solutions are extremely hazardous and pose quite a risk to the user as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; This is more common in non-woodworking contexts because hexane is often used as a cleaning liquid in industrial or technical applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt; Xylene is a more common solvent in a woodworking context; this is basically the same process as the preceding one just using an alternate solvent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;5&lt;/sup&gt; A step that many get wrong; the correct procedure is to wipe once and then discard, to do the utmost to prevent cross-contamination of an unaffected area from the affected areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;6&lt;/sup&gt; No this is not hyperbole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-04-08T17:49:50.127" LastActivityDate="2022-04-08T17:49:50.127" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13734" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-08T13:40:32.240" Score="1" ViewCount="544" Body="&lt;p&gt;I may want to rip down a stain-grade pine 1x5 plank to about 3-3/4 width.  I have a number of these planks that have been sitting indoors for over a month so any movement should have settled already.  I'm making door jambs so I need these to be straight.  I could take a plank, straighten one edge with a power planer, then run it through my table saw but I'm concerned that it will crook after it is cut and if not immediately then possibly way down the road after it's been installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I narrow down a plank without it becoming crooked or otherwise deformed?  Alternatively, would I be better off taking a 1x4 and gluing on a narrow strip to make it wider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11691" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2022-04-09T14:32:45.727" LastActivityDate="2022-04-09T17:27:32.280" Title="How to rip long planks without causing them to deform?" Tags="|wood|wood-movement|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13734" CreationDate="2022-04-08T14:42:29.873" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any piece of wood &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; warp at any time between now and &lt;code&gt;x&lt;/code&gt; time in the future. If you wait to use it until you think the wood won't warp on you, then you should probably find a different hobby/profession to fill your time because you're going to be waiting a &lt;em&gt;long&lt;/em&gt; time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drier the wood is the less likely it is to warp. Get yourself a moisture meter and look up info on what the idea moisture level is for your pine. Wait until the wood is that dry to minimize the likelihood of it warping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, since the wood has been sitting inside (presumably in the same indoor atmosphere where it will be installed - inside my garage is different than inside my house, for example), it's probably dry enough and you shouldn't worry about it. For example, I live in a house built in the 1890s. I've got wide pine trim in many parts of it, and none of it seems to have warped in over 100 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your level of worry  is entirely up to you, but I'm guessing you have nothing significant to worry about at this point. You &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; have to replace the wood, but it's likely that if it twists when you cut it, no amount of further drying would have prevented it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2022-04-08T14:42:29.873" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13734" CreationDate="2022-04-08T17:18:15.763" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 2 things that cause wood to 'warp or kink' after it's cut.  This is caused by stresses on the wood, sometimes if the wood is dried really fast and unevenly, there can be stresses added and by cutting it (especially the long way) you are releasing this stress, at least on one side, and will usually bend the opposite way, Planning an edge can even release some of this, if it is there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other is naturally stressed wood, usually from a leaning tree or branch, and it can become pretty stable, until you cut it, if this is the case there is nothing you can do but make curved furniture...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pine generally isn't affected by the 2nd issue and the first I think most manufactures don't make that mistake any more.  So the only thing left is natural moisture movement, which you have little control over and clear straight grained wood generally is pretty stable once it dries and you should have little worry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On top of that pine tends to either warp and twist right away, or not at all. and it's soft enough that once it's nailed down, it almost never moves, other than the swelling and shrinking of the seasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2022-04-08T17:18:15.763" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13734" CreationDate="2022-04-09T17:27:32.280" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your approach makes sense, but if you're particularly concerned about this wood, I suggest you remove the extra width in two cuts, rather than one.    Joint one edge straight as you suggest, then rip down to within 1/4&amp;quot; or so of your desired width, let the wood settle for a day or two, then if the wood remains straight, rip to final width.    If not rejoint and rip to final dimension.   That shouldn't be necessary for properly dried, reasonably straight-grained pine, but it will take care of any problems that do arise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have said, if dry at installation, pine isn't going to move much at all, beyond normal expansion and contraction, once it's fastened in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11864" LastActivityDate="2022-04-09T17:27:32.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13640" CreationDate="2022-04-11T17:00:16.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the video, it looks like one center is fixed (headstock) and the other center is adjustable (tailstock).  I would guess there's some friction in the tailstock (it probably has a tenon that fits snugly in the slot), but the turner appears to be also holding it in position with his left foot.  There shouldn't be much force on the tailstock, so he probably doesn't need to do much with his foot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure some people use wedges to hold the centers securely rather than having yet another thing to tend to.  On my pole late my &amp;quot;poppets&amp;quot; (tailstock and headstock) have tenons that descend beneath the bed.  A mortise runs through them under the bed, and a wedge can be hammered in to pull the poppet tight against the bed.  You can find many pictures online, such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/turning/comments/coaqga/i_reworked_the_poppets_on_my_pole_lathe_details/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.reddit.com/r/turning/comments/coaqga/i_reworked_the_poppets_on_my_pole_lathe_details/&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this lathe though, that would mean raising the lathe up off the floor a bit, which would make it harder to operate with your feet.  I think your last picture shows the solution, which is that the bed runs through the tailstock, and so those wedges pull the bottom of the tailstock mortise up against the bed, providing friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3792" LastActivityDate="2022-04-11T17:00:16.413" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13741" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-12T03:08:14.367" Score="-1" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a power tool that will notch the bottom corner of already existing stairs? It's an old wooden staircase that we are putting laminate flooring on. For a neater look, we intend to make a continuous groove and slide the boards in. Any ideas or tools I can use&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11955" LastActivityDate="2022-05-12T13:01:00.117" Title="To notch internal bottom corners of steps" Tags="|router|circular-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13741" CreationDate="2022-04-12T12:18:01.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no power tool technique that I can envisage that will allow this to be done in situ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you used the tags for router and circular saw specifically, there just isn't the required access. Even if you could start the process with either in the middle perhaps, both the wall and handrail sides of the staircase and the body of the tool itself — very much so in the case of a circular saw! — are (as far as I can see, insurmountable) obstacles to extending it to both edges as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leads on to the thought of using hand tools, while there are some methods that suggest themselves as I indicate in my Comment I don't think this is a viable option for the typical homeowner&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. I think only an experienced carpenter or woodworker is in a position to even attempt this, with or without one or two useful-but-not-essential specialist tools&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, since you basically have one shot to get it right every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leading on from the hand-tool methods I think it's theoretically possible to use other power tools to do similar work, specifically an oscillating tool and a power chisel, but neither should be used for detail work by a first-time user and this isn't a job where you can train yourself in on them as you go (since the first one pretty much has to be as perfect as all of the rest of them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I think this leaves as options the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hide the joint with beading;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ensure the joint between laminate and riser is tight enough&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; that you're happy with how it looks after installation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both are fairly simple to implement and IMO aesthetically acceptable but your mileage may vary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Without the required tools and experience using them — the cost is somewhat prohibitive but the learning curves (e.g. for sharpening) are unquestionably too steep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; E.g. a floorboard saw or &lt;em&gt;azebiki&lt;/em&gt; and a cranked-neck chisel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; By undercutting by just a few degrees so the top edge is sure to register against the riser, &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; by scribing if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-04-12T12:18:01.380" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13743" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-12T23:13:19.017" Score="0" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a compressor sit in a shed, not directly exposed to elements but to whatever moisture is in the air (I do live in a high moisture location).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was virtually no water to drain from the tank when I pulled it out since I did drain it before putting it away often enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use it? Is there danger of corrosion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9309" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2022-04-15T12:20:52.567" LastActivityDate="2022-04-15T12:20:52.567" Title="Is it safe to use a compressor stored for a year in an unheated shed?" Tags="|tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2022-04-14T04:49:38.680" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4878" CreationDate="2022-04-13T00:19:08.543" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMHO, any tabletop or large panel surface should be sealed similarly on top and bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of people throw together panels, brush some stain and a finish on them and that piece of work is now seriously susceptible to a lot of atmospheric changes on only one side of that large piece of human interacted lumber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen splitting and warping due to this and simply recommend at least 1/4 to 1/2 of the coats of finish be performed on the bottom compared to the top surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Minimal 'extra' work and consumables to produce a finer longer lasting piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11959" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2022-04-22T02:54:13.040" LastActivityDate="2022-04-22T02:54:13.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13743" CreationDate="2022-04-13T15:30:25.153" Score="3" Body="&lt;h3&gt;The question asked:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there danger of corrosion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;The question &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; asked:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any danger to be worried about from this corrosion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;sub&gt;See reasons below&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;The question asked in comments:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wouldn't the pressure build up to 150lb and then the corroded tank will explode sending metal shards flying?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had 3 air compressors sitting in my uninsulated, unheated garage over the last 30 years. The first two were replaced (each after about 15 years - just got the 3rd last summer) due to physical damage and my inability to find replacement parts (and lack of desire/skills to fabricate them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They were left plugged in &lt;em&gt;and turned on&lt;/em&gt; for &lt;em&gt;long&lt;/em&gt; periods of time (like a year at a time) with very little use. This means they would run, sucking in dryish winter air and &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; humid (80+%) Midwest US air, slowly leak pressure (as they're wont to do), then run again to bring the pressure back up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once a year or so when I'd remember to drain the tank, I'd haul one outside, blow out some nice brown (rust laden) water, close the drain plug, roll it inside, plug it in, and ignore it for another year or more. No, this is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; the proper way to care for a compressor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As noted in a comment, how often do you hear of compressor tanks exploding? Never. I'm sure mine are not the only, nor the worst, abused compressors on the planet and it's just not a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional support for the lack of concern comes from the Mythbusters. They &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/JowxxVFclUk?t=5574&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;shot&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; a scuba tank (pressurized to &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;3000&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; PSI) with a rifle and the tank didn't explode (watch about 2-3 minutes of the video to see the results of the shot). Therefore, it is &lt;em&gt;extremely&lt;/em&gt; unlikely that your tank will &lt;em&gt;explode&lt;/em&gt; due to rusting from the inside out. Granted, the tank, with 3000 PSI rocketed around and you wouldn't want to be in the way. However, a pin-hole puncture at 150 PSI or less probably won't move a 40+lb compressor much, and even if it does, it's still not an explosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is likely to happen is that a &lt;em&gt;tiny&lt;/em&gt; pinhole leak will &lt;em&gt;eventually&lt;/em&gt; develop and air will escape. When you run the compressor, air will be used through the hose for your intended purpose, and air will leak out this small hole constantly. Your compressor will cycle more often trying to maintain internal pressure. You'll be annoyed by the more frequent running. You'll be annoyed by the high-pitched sound of air escaping through the pin-hole. You will &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; catch shrapnel from an explosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2022-04-13T19:32:04.657" LastActivityDate="2022-04-13T19:32:04.657" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13053" CreationDate="2022-04-15T23:12:11.527" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best option is an intercooler/turbo hose adapter from 2.5in to 1.75&amp;quot;. Stays flexible all the time even in extreme cold and doesn't need clamps. Cost around $10. Amazon, eBay or Auto-stores have them&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00XKDEJBK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XKDEJBK&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11972" LastEditorUserId="32" LastEditDate="2022-04-22T02:55:52.430" LastActivityDate="2022-04-22T02:55:52.430" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13748" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-16T22:46:07.683" Score="3" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;In 2020 my father-in-law made a sandbox for our daughter. In 2021 he passed away, so this has become an important item to us to remember him by. However, he made some mistakes in building it. For one, he painted it but did not put a sealant on the wood, so it has started cracking some already due to weathering (one piece has cracked along a screw hole and needs to be replaced).  He also didn't use galvanized hardware, so the screws and hinges (he made it so the seats fold down as a cover over the top) have significantly rusted. We want to save it to make sure it lasts for many more years for our daughter to remember him by.  Here's what I presume I need to do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disassemble it into pieces&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sand each piece down to remove the paint as well as the top layer of weathering&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply a sealant to weather-proof the wood&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repaint it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reassemble it with galvanized hardware&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Except I have pretty much zero woodworking experience, so that's why I'm here.  I can handle disassembling and reassembling it (it's pretty simple), but here's what I don't know:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First, do I have the above right?  Is this the right way to go about preserving it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've borrowed a sander, but what kind of grit sandpaper should I use for this kind of work?  Do I need to start with a low grit and finish with a higher one, or can I get by with a single grit for this?  I have some 120 grit paper already and don't know if that's appropriate or not.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When using a belt sander, what is the proper pressure to apply while sanding? Do I just let the weight of the sander do the work, apply a firm pressure, or somewhere in between?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any and all help is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11976" LastActivityDate="2022-09-20T07:00:10.037" Title="Saving a sandbox - absolute beginner questions" Tags="|finishing|sanding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13749" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13751" CreationDate="2022-04-18T19:53:26.697" Score="0" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may be a silly question, but I have no experience with proper dust collectors/shop vacs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do shop vacs/dust collectors, when operating, eject much air? I ask as I have a super cheap wet/dry vaccuum, that has a blower feature; and when I turn the vac on, it instantly begins both sucking and blowing simultaneously. I find this... annoying as it starts blowing crap everywhere that I would like to not be blown around!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been working in my garden for a while but I'm getting a proper workshop shed soon so will definitely not want things blowing around!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8149" LastActivityDate="2022-04-18T21:13:54.147" Title="Dust collection - Do proper shop vacs/dust collectors eject much air?" Tags="|dust-collection|sawdust|shop-vac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2599" CreationDate="2022-04-18T21:11:28.340" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it is not a self drilling screw.  It is a thread cutter screw (aka self-tapping screw).  It needs a pilot hole.  -  A self drilling screw has a drill bit tip.  That screw has a thread cutter tip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11984" LastActivityDate="2022-04-18T21:11:28.340" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13749" CreationDate="2022-04-18T21:13:54.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do proper shop vacs/dust collectors eject much air?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes.&lt;/strong&gt; All the air that a dust collector or shop vac sucks in, which is a lot, has to come out somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exactly how the air is returned varies. Dust collectors generally return the air through some sort of filter that's much larger than the 4&amp;quot; or 6&amp;quot; intake, so the output is diffused quite a lot -- there's no blast of air from an exhaust port.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some shop vacs also diffuse the exhaust so that there's no blast of air, but others send the air out an exhaust port. That's supposed to be a feature, as you can use the machine either to suck up debris or to blow it away. If it bothers you, I think you've got two options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Buy a different shop vac that does a better job diffusing the outgoing air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make or buy a diffuser that you can add to the vac you have. It wouldn't take much to break up the stream of air so that it's no longer blowing things around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B01HZWFLH2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;diffuser from Craftsman&lt;/a&gt; that would probably work on any vac with a 2 1/2&amp;quot; output port:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h9Ypq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h9Ypq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;diffuser&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-04-18T21:13:54.147" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13752" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-18T21:18:12.433" Score="0" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a table to hold my router.  The surface will most likely be plywood but I'm wondering how to make the legs and attach them so that they're strong enough and the table is stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1iPYF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1iPYF.png&quot; alt=&quot;Router Table V0.01&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The table is 1m high.  From the drawing it's looking like the legs will snap off with any weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have space to have a permanent table so I need to be able to take it apart for storage when it's not being used.  I thought that being able to screw the legs in/out would be the solution to this but now I'm not convinced that a single screw would be sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I know what thickness legs I need?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What sort of joint should I consider for the legs such that I can take them off (or fold them up)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11975" LastActivityDate="2022-04-19T20:46:29.727" Title="Estimate leg width for router table" Tags="|design|strength|router-table|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13753" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-18T22:07:19.027" Score="0" ViewCount="111" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sDi22.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sDi22.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;I haven't worked with lacquered wood before, so I have a guitar where there's a chip/chunk that came off (part of a larger crack repair). Is that something I can use wood filler to fill up? Would I have to sand down the lacquer first (i.e., can wood filler stick to the lacquer)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then, after I fill it, I want to re-spray lacquer over it, so also would want to ask if wood filler can take lacquer paint or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11985" LastEditorUserId="11985" LastEditDate="2022-04-19T01:26:17.047" LastActivityDate="2022-04-19T01:26:17.047" Title="Have a chunk of a lacquered guitar that got ding'd out, can I use wood filler on it?" Tags="|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13754" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13765" CreationDate="2022-04-18T23:27:18.443" Score="2" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am considering a &amp;quot;C&amp;quot; shaped leg/support approach to a standard sized desk I am planning. It's effectively a cantilevered design.  Something like this (but bigger):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xSqUr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xSqUr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://target.scene7.com/is/image/Target/GUEST_bccc18f2-6fe2-4beb-b507-b78d6d0595b2?wid=325&amp;amp;hei=325&amp;amp;qlt=80&amp;amp;fmt=pjpeg&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think I'll include front horizontal cross pieces in design, but might add to back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These types of supports are usually made from metal tubes mitered &amp;amp; welded together, e.g. as pictured, but I'd like to keep this all wood.  If I do, I can see the joints experiencing a little more stress than maybe can handle, although desk only holds a hutch at back (over most supported area), a tower computer also toward the back but along one side, and a keyboard toward front.  So not front loaded with weight at all, except for actual table top, which will be about 30 inches deep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd likely miter the two joints per leg unit for appearances' sake.  So, some design choices to help with strength and support seem obvious: add (actual) splines to joints; include triangle brace pieces to inside 90° corners; choose a wider rather than narrower leg design to increase the surface area of the joint; add another leg unit (or two).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I think fitting a 4th piece diagonally from the top front into the inside of bottom corner of each leg unit would also obviously add support as well as look OK/interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other thoughts or comments?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5706" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-04-20T18:14:28.963" LastActivityDate="2022-04-20T18:26:50.623" Title="Thoughts/advice on cantilevered desk leg supports" Tags="|furniture|legs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13757" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-19T09:56:32.860" Score="2" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my allotment garden there is an old garden house, which needs to be torn off. The house is approximately 30 years old and the planks are varnished. The wood varnish is already peeling off. I don't know whether the wood has been treated with other wood preservatives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no evidence of mold or damage from woodworm and the planks are looking pretty ok for being that old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For our vegetable patches we want to build a very simple border by embedding boards halfway into the ground. Of course I will remove the wood varnish first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I'm concerned that possible wood preservatives will be washed out of the wood by rain and absorbed by plants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The house has not been maintained for at least 10 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think it is save to use these planks for our vegetable patches?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11988" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2022-04-19T13:28:43.747" LastActivityDate="2022-04-19T13:37:53.203" Title="Reuse planks of an old garden house" Tags="|wood|outdoor|pressure-treated|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13758" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13762" CreationDate="2022-04-19T10:52:19.023" Score="3" ViewCount="1118" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to sand this surface to be safe and comfy to touch:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using a Delta sander with grits: 60, 120, 180, 240, 320 with various speeds and applying various amounts of pressure, but it seems that I am making the problem even worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zeXiDl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zeXiDl.png&quot; alt=&quot;board showing growth rings &amp;amp; plugs&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/10973/5579&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; applies to my problem, since I am not getting splinters everywhere due to low quality wood (I think), but I get entire sheets of wood that are splitting. I am using larch wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that the sander removes material disproportionately from the softer, brighter parts of the surface. I can feel this also on the rods that connect the edge joint. There is a small mountain on each of these rods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5579" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2022-04-19T13:23:00.690" LastActivityDate="2022-04-20T01:16:02.600" Title="How to smooth wood that is splintering due to uneven hardness?" Tags="|finishing|sanding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13757" CreationDate="2022-04-19T13:37:53.203" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's highly unlikely that the wood was pressure treated for a &amp;quot;dry&amp;quot; use like sheathing.   And, it would be very unusual to use an after market preservative in that setting, beyond the varnish.   So it's almost certainly just wood with some varnish on it.  Safe for the use you propose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting it into contact with the ground as you propose is going to end in disappointment, however.   It's highly likely that it's pine, and 3/4&amp;quot; of pine stuck in the ground will rot off in a year or two.   Hardly be worth the trouble of putting it up, from a landscaping point of view.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11864" LastActivityDate="2022-04-19T13:37:53.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13752" CreationDate="2022-04-19T14:47:05.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd be hard pressed to trust those spindly legs to hold anything more than tea service attended by the most discrete butler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x4&amp;quot; lumber, screwed together into 4 L-shaped legs would be good.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Triangular pieces of plywood, glued &amp;amp; screwed together into L-shaped legs would be better.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A top and a couple of clamps to hold it to an existing workbench might be even better than that&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Depending on the height of your existing workbench, a &amp;quot;table top&amp;quot; router table might be the way to go&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plywood legs would be easier to make at a short height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can put the work surface to a more comfortable height for &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; to work with.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It could have a leg design &lt;em&gt;specifically&lt;/em&gt; to clamp to your existing workbench. Flats across the bottom for clamps, pegs to fit into holes in the work surface, whatever &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; need for &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; bench.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2022-04-19T14:47:05.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13758" CreationDate="2022-04-19T16:33:33.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have to wonder what kind of a finish you are going for here.  Pine, Larch, spruce etc, all have this problem, it's a fairly soft wood with denser knots and winter growth rings.  This is rarely used for high quality furniture, because it is a soft wood.  And on picnic tables and other things that use it on a large surface, it can still be noticeable after ware and/or the elements get to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now hand sanders and belt sanders are not particularly good for making a pine board perfectly flat.  Because they do what you are witnessing.  Thickness planers that are nice and sharp (like the helical planers) can leave an almost perfect surface behind, and drum sanders generally will not do the uneven sanding either, since the whole board goes through with the same pressure across the whole surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also have the option to try hand planes, which take a bit of practice to leave a finished surface, or wood scrapers which can create a beautiful flat top without the 'gouging' but also takes a lot of work, but doesn't need the full skill of a hand plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big question is what kind of finished surface do you need and are you using the right wood for the job?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2022-04-19T16:33:33.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13758" CreationDate="2022-04-19T19:10:15.013" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using a Delta sander with grits: 60, 120, 180, 240, 320&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two points in relation to this worth noting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you're sanding a little too finely here;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it's worth trying sanding by hand to see if the results are better.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While many people these days do commonly sand more finely it is generally unnecessary to sand beyond approximately 180 grit. And sometimes you can get away with sanding a finished surface to 150, particularly on softwoods&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. Most finishing books will cover this, often with examples showing why it's not beneficial to sand beyond a certain grit in most cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With rotary sanders (both types) it is generally advised to hand-sand the surface in the direction of the grain with the same grit you stopped at on the sander. And here it might also be the case that you get better results — although possibly only slightly — sanding by hand, since you'll be sanding in mostly straight lines and because the process tends not to generate heat as power sanding does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/10972/how-to-sand-out-splinters/10973&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; applies to my problem, since I am not getting splinters everywhere due to low quality wood (I think), but I get entire sheets of wood that are splitting. I am using larch wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; exactly the same issue, just with a different species and not to the same degree, that the other Q&amp;amp;A addresses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you most definitely can sand softwoods to a smooth finish — this is after all how most wood is smoothed these days! — how well it works is very much dependent on the wood, and as in some other areas sometimes the wood just won't cooperate. This happens all the time in planing, both by hand and by machine, e.g. when tearout occurs; while sanding tends to be more forgiving&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; sometimes by itself it's not enough, as here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you're experiencing is caused by an underlying structural issue with the wood, and neither hand planing nor scraping&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; would be a sure-fire solution. With planing while the surface could be initially near-perfect, the flaking is just waiting to occur again, and can sometimes happen between the time planing is finished and the finish is applied as the surface dries slightly; additionally the actual application of the finish can cause it to recur, especially if it's wiped on. With scraping the scraper's burr can actually be prone to lifting the flakes, so you could quite easily get a worse surface than sanding is producing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So what is the solution?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;As I indicated in my Comment under the previous Question, any finish that dries hard — shellac, varnish or lacquer&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt; — can help consolidate this sort of thing and toughen up the underlying surface somewhat, allowing the flaking to be effectively taken off by &lt;em&gt;light&lt;/em&gt; sanding afterwards. Basically you're sort of glueing the surface wood fibres together!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Commercial &amp;quot;sanding sealers&amp;quot; are sold for essentially the same purpose, and while they may have additives to aid sanding at heart they're just dilute finish (usually shellac or lacquer, because they dry so fast).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively or in addition, you can consolidate or 'bury' minor surface imperfections under the finish if you're applying a full film finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; And if painting stopping at 120 is often acceptable!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Hence its use as the solution to minor tearout in most workshops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Note that many sources state that scraping is not a suitable technique for softwoods. This is not accurate. However, it's not always suitable and this is a case where it would likely not be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt; Blended finishes such as &amp;quot;Danish oil&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;tung oil finish&amp;quot; can help as well, but they're generally not quite as effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-04-19T19:10:15.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13752" CreationDate="2022-04-19T20:46:29.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you're open to the idea of a complete redesign to give you the functionality you require without having to have a permanent footprint, here are some options for you. There are some folding or collapsible designs with merit but I'll concentrate on those that don't require any additional floorspace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simplest 'router table' is just a piece/lamination of plywood, particleboard or MDF with a hole in the centre clamped to the edge of an existing surface, or, bridging two trestles/sawhorses/boxes/stools. This very basic setup is described by Patrick Spielman in the cornerstone &lt;strong&gt;Router Handbook&lt;/strong&gt;, page 146&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. Obviously something like this can just be hung on the wall when not in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spielman goes on to illustrate a slightly more elaborate setup on the facing page, simple enough it could be made in a single afternoon. Here are a few alternatives:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/jigs/portable-router-table-woodworking-plan&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Free Portable Router Table Woodworking Plan&lt;/a&gt; on Wood Magazine.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodsmith.com/article/fold-away-router-table/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fold-Away Router Table&lt;/a&gt; on Woodsmith.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/simple-router-table/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Simple Router Table&lt;/a&gt; on Popular Woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For small benchtop router tables&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; here is a selection (all on YouTube):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9WYoc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9WYoc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Benchtop router tables&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2EYJdKTVeKM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mini Router Table&lt;/a&gt; from Patrick Sullivan.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=naMlbjHKh08&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;I Can Do That! Benchtop Router Table&lt;/a&gt;, from Popular Woodworking.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MxNbfjyHqyg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The BEST DIY Router Table for Beginners. #woodjigs21&lt;/a&gt;, from DIYForKnuckleheads.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vB9Ic5KH_JU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mini Router Table / trimmer table&lt;/a&gt; from JSK-koubou.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; For anyone whose local library system doesn't have a copy, you can read this for free (after you sign up) on Archive.org.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Note these are generally built around trim routers, but could be made taller to incorporate a larger router within reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-04-19T20:46:29.727" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13758" CreationDate="2022-04-20T01:16:02.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had good luck in &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; situations like this by using a hard and flat block to hand-sand the surface along the grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, I have a piece of granite (a sample from a countertop vendor) which fits self-adhesive sandpaper perfectly. This tends to keep the abrasive from &amp;quot;bottoming out&amp;quot; on the softer areas and helps to grind down the harder areas more efficiently so they both stay at the same level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You wouldn't necessarily need a hunk of granite, but anything hard and flat should work--even a block of hardwood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most hand sanders have sanding pads (or plattens?) that are somewhat rubbery due to either hook-and-loop fastening systems or a cushioned surface. This allows the abrasive dig in slightly more to the sofer elements of the wood grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Belt sanders don't usually suffer from the problem of rubbery sanding pads, but they tend to be almost too aggressive for finish work. I think it could be done, but I've never been that deft with a belt sander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastActivityDate="2022-04-20T01:16:02.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13754" CreationDate="2022-04-20T18:26:50.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;People (including aspiring, and occasionally experienced, woodworkers) can look at this sort of thing and assume the rear joints&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; just can't take the stress, but you can actually make &lt;em&gt;chairs&lt;/em&gt; with this basic design if you build them right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;although desk only holds a hutch at back (over most supported area), a tower computer also toward the back but along one side, and a keyboard toward front. So not front loaded with weight at all, except for actual table top&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's an important additional weight you aren't factoring in and that's the weight of your arms when the desk is in use. Unless you sit in such a way that your fingers perch above the keyboard and don't press upon the desktop &lt;em&gt;at all&lt;/em&gt; the amount of pressure exerted by your arms is significant enough that you don't want to ignore it&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if you intend to write on the desk occasionally a good portion of the weight of your torso will press upon the desktop without you realising it..... and far more towards the front edge than the centre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus, as covered in the Comments, for safety you &lt;em&gt;have to&lt;/em&gt; overbuild for the accidental or unthinking overloading situation — someone tripping and putting a hand on the edge of the desk to steady themselves, leaning against it, or worse, actually sitting on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So how to build it right&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Two options are using bridle joints (open mortise-and-tenon joints) or finger joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For additional strength and to future-proof it you should probably lock the joint with pegs. Additional reinforcement may make the pegs redundant but they look good and don't take much time to do so I'd personally add them anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you've indicated you're open to using external fixturing (e.g. truss plates) or a diagonal support of some kind by all means add something. They'll add so much to the overall strength and stiffness. Have a look at the various iterations of the ZigZag Chair designed by Gerrit Rietveld to get other ideas of how you might reinforce the joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You haven't mentioned what wood you intend or hope to use here so a word about that is in order. If you're using hardwood you can use thinner stock than softwood, &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; thinner for the stronger hardwoods; as a very rough indicator, with oak you can use stock half the dimensions of pine, for equivalent strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be selective in the pieces you use. You don't want any knots or significant grain runout (grain that angles sharply across) on the vertical members in particular. As much as possible these pieces should be straight-grained and free from defects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think I'll include front horizontal cross pieces in design, but might add to back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes I don't think this adds anything of structural necessity, unless the top is fair thin and the legs are spaced widely apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;choose a wider rather than narrower leg design to increase the surface area of the joint&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The surface area of the joint is an important consideration, but bear in mind the axis of the strain. If you used e.g. 1&amp;quot;x3&amp;quot; (25mm x 76mm) stock you maximise the beam strength if they are edge-on to the sitter and desktop compared to the opposite. If you prefer the flat look you might want to go quite wide, and/or consider adding a third leg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; From responses I've read most seem to focus on the top-rear joint as the one that will experience the most stress. But I think you have works out to 60:40 top to bottom you still don't want to skimp on the bottom joint. And if you're using power tools to create the joinery you actually save time doing the two joints the same because there's no additional setup time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; You only tend to notice this when you use something like a cheesy flatpack computer desk with a pull-out keyboard tray! If you haven't ever used one of those believe me, you want to factor that in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-04-20T18:26:50.623" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13766" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13767" CreationDate="2022-04-22T18:41:09.810" Score="3" ViewCount="1859" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Original Question&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently built a pair of custom shelves for a closet remodel. Ideally, I would like to float these shelves by securing them to some studs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shelving dimensions are 72&amp;quot;x32&amp;quot;x16&amp;quot;. The shelving roughly weighs 100lbs and built with 3/4&amp;quot; birch plywood. The shelves would only carry the weight of common items found in your home closet so nothing too heavy. I have added 4&amp;quot; mounting points underneath each shelf fastened in place with 6 pocket holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of using lag screws to secure them to the studs. Would this be overkill or would some finely threaded 3 1/2 inch wood screws work? Thank you in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IzZDy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IzZDy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;shelves&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L79ld.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L79ld.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;crossmember&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Completion Notes&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the advice in the accepted answer and went with RSS Rugged Structural Screws. The only ones I could find at my local hardware store were 5/16x4&amp;quot; RSS which may be overkill for this project but the cabinets are securely attached to studs. I think in retrospect I would go with a smaller construction screw with a french cleat system for easier installation and to make the install more aesthetically pleasing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ihupa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ihupa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;final closet install&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zR0tk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zR0tk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;final closet install&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/co39E.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/co39E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rss rugged structural screws&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11999" LastEditorUserId="11999" LastEditDate="2022-04-29T19:16:25.253" LastActivityDate="2022-04-29T19:16:25.253" Title="How do I securely hang heavy closet shelves?" Tags="|strength|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13766" CreationDate="2022-04-22T19:20:01.883" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A #9 GRK R4 construction screw is rated about 175lbs shear strength (actual value depends on the materials being joined).  Your design will cross 2 studs, so you should be able to get 6 screws at least in your hanger boards.  Conservatively, that'll give you a shear resistance on the shelves close to 1000lbs.   They should also have adequate pull-through resistance.   If you go with long enough screws that you get 2+ inches in the stud, pull-out resistance will be more than adequate as well.   Just make sure you use construction grade screws, not a cheap knock-off or deck fastener grade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a bigger insurance policy, though, you could go with GRK RSS (Rugged Structural Screws in 1/4&amp;quot;).   Self drilling like the R4, construction screws, but about 4X the shear, pull-out and pull-through resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11864" LastActivityDate="2022-04-22T19:20:01.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13766" CreationDate="2022-04-22T22:54:35.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you have studs available, plus the space for four mounting points, there's absolutely no need to overthink the screw type here. I wouldn't go so far as to say you could use just about anything, but the reality is pretty close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are three (of many!) published takes on the subject, each recommending different screws for the same application:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://thehonestcarpenter.com/blog/safe-mounting-for-cabinets/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kitchen cabinets - how do I secure them?&lt;/a&gt; from The Honest Carpenter [coated exterior screws]&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularmechanics.com/home/interior-projects/how-to/a7657/the-screws-you-need-to-hang-kitchen-cabinets/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Screws You Need to Hang Kitchen Cabinets&lt;/a&gt; on Popular Mechanics [cabinet screws AKA washer-head screws]&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thisoldhouse.com/kitchens/21016730/how-to-hang-kitchen-cabinets&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Hang Kitchen Cabinets&lt;/a&gt; on This Old House [deck screws]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And bear in mind these are focussed on kitchen cabinets, which can on occasion be expected to hold &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; more weight in some instances than your requirement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-04-22T22:54:35.233" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13748" CreationDate="2022-04-23T04:35:26.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take pictures of the paint job and possibly assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest disassembly and cleaning it.&#xA;Paint remover probably would be best as no experience is needed. Use a different sander or use the belt sander lightly before applying the epoxy. Not much sanding is needed. Paint will gum up sand paper. I don't like belt sanders, either use sparingly with finer paper 120 220, or better use a different sander. Belt sanders, as all sanders, use their own weight, keep it moving though. You can also sand by hand as not much is really needed for the epoxy.&#xA;Coat everything you can with 2 coats of 2 part epoxy. Epoxy cures by producing its own heat so mix small batches, one at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The epoxy should fix most if not all the cracks. Unless the board is rotted it shouldn't need to be replaced. It may need to be clamped or a filler mixed with the epoxy to make it thicker. You can buy filler (silica, microspheres...) or use sawdust. Filler allows you to make the epoxy as thick as syrup, mayonnaise or even peanut butter. Replace the board if needed though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paint it to protect the epoxy from the sun. Paint it before you reassemble it. its easier and will allow you to ensure it is completely painted. You will need to repaint every so many years as the paint degrades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put it back together with either hot dipped galvanized or stainless steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The epoxy is pricey but we're talking not only an outdoor wooden thingy but one that will contain wettish sand. It will basically bullet proof your project for many years as long as you keep up with the paint and any repairs that may crop up. You mentioned it is only two years old and already has problems. AND you want it to last for some time. This is why I recommend Epoxy.&#xA;Oh I would also coat the inside of any bolt holes as they can/will allow water to penetrate the wood. But I am a bit anal about this kind of thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After your daughter outgrows it you might want to dump the sand out of it and store it someplace... for your granddaughter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12000" LastActivityDate="2022-04-23T04:35:26.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11079" CreationDate="2022-04-23T04:53:08.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw recently several youtube methods of removing the water from alcohol. They simply added salt then decanted. Salt attracts water. If you can find some cheap high proof alcohol you can make it higher with this method. There is also a freezing method for removing water.&#xA;Salting&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/I5wuMGNsdHk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/I5wuMGNsdHk&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/1SS3-D-Aqr4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/1SS3-D-Aqr4&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Freezing&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/4UbnHw0qIzo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/4UbnHw0qIzo&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An expensive alternative is to buy legal moonshine. I don't know if you can do that in CA but in NY you can. Oddly enough it must be sold in mason jars.&#xA;A farmer at work made it. I have no idea of how you would find them though.&#xA;I tried searching this and apparently your not allowed to drink alcohol in CA. unless its watered down. Still you could get your own license to distill if the need is this high. A state license is legal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12000" LastEditorUserId="12000" LastEditDate="2022-04-29T02:28:26.673" LastActivityDate="2022-04-29T02:28:26.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13771" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-23T12:59:32.077" Score="3" ViewCount="897" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning an open wood staircase for new home in white oak and the cost is getting out of hand. The plan is to stain some parts dark and other parts light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if I could use red oak instead of white oak but make the red oak look more like white oak— the grain of red oak when stained is just too prominent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my question is: Can red oak be bleached first and then stained to look more like white oak? (With something like Circa 1850 wood bleach?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is it better to apply lighter stain or wood conditioner so subsequently added darker stain color will apply more evenly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers, Amy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12001" LastActivityDate="2023-11-30T00:49:17.173" Title="Making red oak look more like white oak" Tags="|staining|oak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13771" CreationDate="2022-04-23T19:25:32.940" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's some terminology confusion here. In conventional parlance you don't &amp;quot;stain&amp;quot; wood light. Stain &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; alters the basic colouration of wood&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; or makes it darker, or both. Although there are various ways to colour wood a little lighter (including just using diluted white paint!) this isn't technically staining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my question is: Can red oak be bleached first and then stained to look more like white oak?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes you can bleach all woods to make them lighter, using any of the two-part or A+B bleaches&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. With a fairly typical red oak I'm not sure if you would need to stain it after to make it look like white oak, it could already be within the correct colour range. Obviously this is something that would need some experimentation, and it might vary with your wood which leads on to the next point.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What colour is each anyway?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;All wood varies to begin with (sometimes quite a lot) so we're never just dealing with a single colour no matter what the wood is. And there's heartwood v sapwood, the sapwood usually being lighter, sometimes &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; lighter as in walnut. Additionally, the dividing line between what's sold commercially as white or red oak isn't nearly as clear as the books and endless magazine articles might lead us to believe!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In reality there is no one White Oak or Red Oak, but various subspecies that are assigned to two categories (see the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wood-database.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wood Database&lt;/a&gt; and other resources for more). And some are &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; less characteristic of their supposed colouring/features than one would expect&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in short, it's possible to find some red oak that's &lt;em&gt;already&lt;/em&gt; quite similar to white oak — within the range of colouring that white oak naturally exhibits — so you wouldn't have to do anything to it at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chestnut&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I presume you're in the US or Canada so this probably isn't an option since you lost virtually all your chestnuts to a blight last century, but elsewhere in the world chestnut would be a viable and possibly much cheaper alternative. It's long been referred to as &amp;quot;poor man's oak&amp;quot; it can look so similar, although it lacks oak's striking quarter-sawn figure or ray flecking (which obviously can be beneficial in some applications)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks to @gnicko from the Comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sassafras&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;While it's often stated that this is a close match or good substitute for American ash, as well as chestnut (the Wood Database &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wood-database.com/sassafras/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;entry&lt;/a&gt; mentions both), you can clearly see in images online that it can also look a heck of a lot like typical white oak. I would expect some regional variation on the availability of sassafras so you'd need to check local mills and/or hardwood dealers to see if they stock it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Changes the hue — more reddish, yellowish etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Sodium hydroxide and hydrogen peroxide, mixed together or used in sequence. Use with caution!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Despite how confident most of us are that we can tell which is which on sight, this is why some hardwood dealers and wood experts won't ID a piece of oak as one or the other unless they have it in front of them and can examine the prepared end grain with a loupe or microscope O_O&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2022-05-02T14:17:14.333" LastActivityDate="2022-05-02T14:17:14.333" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13774" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-24T00:35:01.407" Score="2" ViewCount="569" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm installing a door knob and latch in a hollow core door.  While screwing in the latch faceplate, I noticed a long hairline crack that starts at the latch bore and runs maybe 8 inches up the stile.  Highlighted in red in the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MSbF3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MSbF3.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crack opens up when I tighten the faceplate screws.  I initially thought one of the screws cracked the wood but now I'm thinking the crack was there when I got the door and it's the pressure of the plate that's making it open up.  The crack doesn't look like it runs over the screw hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is probably not a big deal but I don't like having the crack there and it's not going to get better on its own.  How do I tie it back together?  The crack is too tight to get glue in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11691" LastActivityDate="2022-04-25T06:52:30.520" Title="How do I fix a hairline crack in a hollow core door stile?" Tags="|wood-repair|door|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13774" CreationDate="2022-04-24T05:09:35.410" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many woodworkers use superglue for hairline cracks, but epoxy is also good for this and is stronger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Superglue is thin, will enter hairline cracks due to 'capillary action'. With no further help expect 1-3mm penetration, enough to glue surface of crack together. If you blow glue into crack like @Graphus mentions in comments, 3-5mm penetration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is not enough for you, use slow-set epoxy. Apply to surface and you can wait &amp;gt;10 minutes for glue to penetrate due to gravity!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crack opens up when I tighten the faceplate screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crack is too tight to get glue in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tighten faceplate screws to help glue enter crack. After applying glue remove faceplate and crack will close, so no need for clamping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then leave glue to set before final installation of faceplate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastEditorUserId="10942" LastEditDate="2022-04-25T06:52:30.520" LastActivityDate="2022-04-25T06:52:30.520" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13774" CreationDate="2022-04-24T14:27:29.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since this is the part of the door that gets the most stress, I'd actually advise not using epoxy or CA glues for this. Epoxy will be harder to get into the voids, and CA glue will either soak into the open pores of the typical softwood construction of these doors or be so thick and fast-setting it will be a bear to work into the split. It'll be pricey, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a clamp as a spreader and gently open the split up and then use a syringe and/or a thin glue spatula to work as much wood glue into the void as you can. You really want to work as much as you can into the split, working the spatula as deep as you can go. The idea is that you want a fair amount of messy squeeze-out once you clamp it up. Keep adding glue and taking the pressure off the spreader occasionally until you see squeeze-out all along the split.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be generous with the glue, and take your time. Those little cheap suction cups used to hang doodads on window panes can be used along the split to force glue deep into the void.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then remove the spreader and clamp the entire stile up firmly. There should be a fair amount of squeeze-out that you can deal with in the usual manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a wood glue that has a longer set-up time so you can take your time jamming it in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can take a cue from furniture and guitar repair folks and first drill small holes at the ends of the split to try and keep it from lengthening as the door is stressed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to cleanup the edges of the void where the plate goes in with a router or chisel so the hardware isn't trying to force the same split to open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5572" LastEditorDisplayName="user5572" LastEditDate="2022-04-24T14:33:13.017" LastActivityDate="2022-04-24T14:33:13.017" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13778" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-25T17:31:59.967" Score="-1" ViewCount="196" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a buffet that has doors with glass.  Ideally the frames for the doors will be 1&amp;quot; wide all around.  These doors will be inset and sit flush with the cabinet frame when closed.  I have found inset cabinet door hinges but they all seem to be too large to work with a wood door frame that is only 1&amp;quot; wide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The picture below shows what I am talking about.  Does anyone make an inset cabinet door hinge that is small enough that it would work with a 1&amp;quot; width door frame?  If not my other options are to either use a different kind of hinge that might be exposed or make the door frame a bit wider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tqsmW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tqsmW.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5473" LastActivityDate="2022-04-26T14:30:23.503" Title="Looking for an inset hinge for a 1&quot; wide door frame" Tags="|cabinetry|hinges|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13778" CreationDate="2022-04-26T08:32:40.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found these with Google:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/68NeH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/68NeH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.elesa.com/en/elesab2bstoreoc/catalogo-cat-166-sales/hinges-and-accessories--1/hinge-for-thin-frames--1/Hinges-and-accessories--Hinge-for-thin-frames--CFF-B&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Elessa CFF hinge for thin frames&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.salice.com/ww/en/products/hinges/push-opening-for-handles-less-doors/universal-hinges-110%C2%B0-opening-standard-application-push-special-materials&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Salice Universal Hinges Push&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rockler.com/invisible-spring-hinges&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Rockler&quot;&gt;Invisible Spring Hinges&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mounting plate dimensions for 2 and 3 not clear, but maybe under 1&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2022-04-26T14:30:23.503" LastActivityDate="2022-04-26T14:30:23.503" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13780" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-26T12:52:46.193" Score="5" ViewCount="592" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to buy a brand new jointer and planer for my workshop. But recently I learned about &lt;strong&gt;double-sided planers&lt;/strong&gt; that provide better flexibility and allow you to program the sides that need to be planned in the machine's PLC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only downside of double-sided planers is the high price. Does a double-sided planer replace the functionality of a planer and a jointer? Can it make the edges of the timber perfectly straight and parallel? What are the pros and cons of using them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently, I am using an inexpensive jointer and planer. But I am starting to go over capacity with them. Now that I need to upgrade, I am thinking of future-proofing my workshop. I've never used a double-sided planer by itself. So I am not sure if a double-sided planer would do the same job that planer + jointer does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12007" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-05-02T16:42:20.583" LastActivityDate="2022-05-02T16:42:20.583" Title="Does a double-sided planer replace a jointer and a planer?" Tags="|planer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13780" CreationDate="2022-04-26T15:14:26.483" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, a double-sided planer does not do the job of both a planer and jointer.   A jointer is used to flatten surfaces, and to create a square edge on board with one flat surface.   A planer makes boards a uniform thickness (they are in fact referred to as thicknessers in many English speaking countries other than the US).  Planers require one side of a board to be flat, relative to the table surface of the planer, in order to produce a second flat surface.  Without special jigs (which would not work in a double surface machine) a planer cannot produce an initial flat surface.   So, all a double-sided planer does is make the process of getting both sides of a board flat, and the thickness down to what you want, quicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to pros and cons, unless you are in a production setting, I see no advantage to a double surface planer.   The extra money you put into one in a non-production shop will do you a lot more good going into getting more width and mass into either your jointer or planer, or maybe some really nice wood to work with.   You can't possibly amortize the extra cost in terms of speed and convenience in a setting where the machine is not used at a high duty cycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11864" LastEditorUserId="11864" LastEditDate="2022-04-27T12:43:52.743" LastActivityDate="2022-04-27T12:43:52.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13780" CreationDate="2022-04-26T15:59:20.943" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, a double-sided planer does not appear to do the jobs of a planer and a thicknesser/jointer. If you have a twisted or bowed piece of wood, passing it through a double-sided planer may not be sufficient to remove the bow or twist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, combined &amp;quot;planer/thicknesser&amp;quot;s do exist, which seem to be what you're looking for. For example the DeWalt D27300:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tooled-up.com/dewalt-d27300-planer-thicknesser/prod/266850/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.tooled-up.com/dewalt-d27300-planer-thicknesser/prod/266850/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many other brands also manufacture them. If you do a google search for &amp;quot;combo planer/thicknesser&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;jointer/planer combo&amp;quot; without the quotation marks then you'll find plenty of info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that with a combo machine like this you would still need to plane the board on the top table first to establish a straight &amp;amp; flat face and/or edge before then passing the piece through the thicknesser/jointer part beneath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a good article about them here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/tools/straight-talk-on-jointer-planer-combo-machines/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Popular Woodworking Jointer/Planer Article&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastEditorUserId="272" LastEditDate="2022-04-27T21:17:34.550" LastActivityDate="2022-04-27T21:17:34.550" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13783" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-26T21:53:33.050" Score="3" ViewCount="211" Body="&lt;p&gt;Building a wheeled table or maybe better called a cart/bench that will slide back and forth over my washer and dryer. I can leave in place to fold on, or pull it out to have an additional table in the room to stack laundry on. Nothing heavy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only have room for legs / panels on the outsides, no room for an additional support between the washer and dryer. Intend to use 1.5 or 1.75 inch thick &amp;quot;butcher block&amp;quot; pre-made countertop out of rubberwood from Lowe's, which is not an end-grain butcher block. The grain runs lengthwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The legs will be 2-4s or 2x6s panels. My countertop will be 6 foot long and 33 inches deep. Overhang will be one inch on one side and zero on the other. So about 57 inches suspended wood between the legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really don't want to build an apron under the countertop for support because I want to fold laundry on this and if the countertop gets any higher it will be hard to do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I build this in this way without the middle sagging down over time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12008" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-04-26T22:43:23.283" LastActivityDate="2022-04-26T22:43:23.283" Title="Support needed for &quot;butcher block&quot; cart top?" Tags="|tabletop|strength|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13783" CreationDate="2022-04-26T22:41:34.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I build this in this way without the middle sagging down over time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. If the top were actual butcher block this would definitely require some additional support, but long-grain material like this (especially in this thickness) is more than capable of supporting its own weight over a span of 57&amp;quot;, and quite a bit besides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There isn't definitive data on the properties of rubberwood available online&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, but even without extrapolating from similar hardwood species WoodBin's &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sagulator&lt;/a&gt; suggests there's nothing at all to worry about — as I usually do I plugged in some ludicrously OTT numbers to begin with, to see if there was potentially a problem, and, well, the computed sag was reassuring to say the least&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; There are conflicting numbers so you don't know what to trust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; I typically walk back from some beyond-worst-case assumptions to more reasonable figures to see if the borderline/acceptable balance point lies within the hoped-for design parameters but here there was no need to. I started with double the total listed weight of the entire 72&amp;quot; panel, then added some more for good measure, selected central load and not uniform and &lt;em&gt;even with some ludicrously not-like-hevea substitutions&lt;/em&gt; the amount of sag is so tiny it would be impossible to see even if you were looking for it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-04-26T22:41:34.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2847" CreationDate="2022-04-29T15:57:15.780" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just did this recently.  Works great, but lightly sand epoxy at up to 320 before applying first coat of lacquer, and then use several thin additional coats on top of that.  You won't need to sand between lacquer coats unless you have rough spots or dust, since a new coat of Lacquer melds with existing lacquer perfectly.  This gave me a liquid top coat that looks lustrous and beautiful, just as I wanted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12013" LastActivityDate="2022-04-29T15:57:15.780" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13787" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-02T13:25:58.060" Score="9" ViewCount="2622" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a project which includes a copper bushing (made of 3/8&amp;quot; OD copper tubing--the walls of which are somewhere around 1/16&amp;quot;), and am considering how to batch out these parts.  The approach I'd like to take is to create a wider blank, with the bushing installed--then to resaw the blank into several individual pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd prefer to do this on my bandsaw, which currently has a ~6tpi blade.  Would cutting the copper tubing be likely to damage the blade, or destroy the workpiece (excessive tearout, etc)?  I've cut aluminum on my circular wood blades before, but never the bandsaw--and understand pure aluminum is softer than copper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS) For a little more context, I'm making keychains.  Here's a prototype--it's approximately 3&amp;quot; long and 1/2&amp;quot; thick.  If you have other ideas about how to produce these please add a comment!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BXFAb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BXFAb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Keychain prototype with copper bushing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8277" LastEditorUserId="12025" LastEditDate="2022-05-03T18:48:33.463" LastActivityDate="2022-05-07T02:49:20.663" Title="Cutting copper with woodworking saws" Tags="|cutting|band-saw|materials|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13780" CreationDate="2022-05-02T13:33:54.507" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt;, but would still require multiple operations as well as a fence (which is a feature I've never seen on any thickness planer).  It likely would need to be reviewed on a per-model basis and only attempted if the manufacturer designed it for jointing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where it might come close is if the feed rollers were only on the top cutter.  You may be able to raise the top cutter well above the workpiece, exposing the lower cutter in a manner that is quite similar to a jointer.  However--having the upper cutter fully exposed would be quite dangerous!  Also, without a fence you might be able to remove some twist, cupping, or bends--but you would not be able to produce a precise 90-degree corner, which is a key ability of a jointer.  Since you would need to raise the cutter to flatten a side, then lower the cutter to bring the opposing edge in parallel, you'd be doing multiple operations with a changeover time in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all--it doesn't sound like what you want, or a good idea.  Using a combination planer/jointer (which also requires separate operations and reconfiguration) is likely as close as you'll get, and far safer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8277" LastActivityDate="2022-05-02T13:33:54.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13787" CreationDate="2022-05-02T14:21:26.843" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cutting metal with bandsaw blade and blade speed designed for cutting wood will ruin the blade very quickly (unless you've got a carbide resaw blade, but even then, I wouldn't do it - those are expensive blades, and there is no doubt you'd be degrading the wood cutting edge of the blade cutting hardened, unannealed copper).   That said, there are obviously blades made for bandsaws that are hardened and designed to cut metal.   You could use such a blade - it'll cut the plywood just fine, although you might have trouble with the blades becoming overloaded with fine chips, leading to poor cutting and burning, particularly since your wood bandsaw will be running the metal cutting blade significantly over its design speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what I would do if I were building your design, is to cut the bushed end of the piece in a vice with a hacksaw, then flip the piece over and make the rest of the cut on the bandsaw.   Unless you're making hundreds of these, that'd be easier and faster than setting up the bandsaw with a different blade.   A sharp, 12tpi hacksaw will cut through the bush end quickly and accurately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11864" LastActivityDate="2022-05-02T14:21:26.843" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13787" CreationDate="2022-05-02T15:20:26.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While it would be more convenient to cut the tubing and wood all in one go, there are a couple of issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It may be difficult to get the tube through all the blanks in one shot, especially if it's a very snug fit. Getting a 1/2&amp;quot; in piece in is one thing. Getting a 12&amp;quot; piece in is a whole 'nuther matter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 TPI will make a &lt;em&gt;nasty&lt;/em&gt; cut in the metal.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Just like cutting wood, the more teeth, the smoother the cut will be. Any metal cutting tool you see will have a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of teeth (except for a demolition blade for a Sawzall™-type saw, because it doesn't matter).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The more teeth, the slower the cut in wood will be.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The comments well address the damage you'll likely end up doing to a blade designed for wood, and a metal-cutting band saw blade will probably not do a very good job of cutting wood.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest a standard plumber's pipe cutter to cut the tubing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RlwOF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RlwOF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Standard screw-type pipe cutter&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;sup&gt;image courtesy of lowes.com. No endorsement intended or implied&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should give you a nice clean cut with very little roughness to clean up before installing the pieces into the wood. It doesn't take long at all to cut through copper plumbing pipe by hand (I've done a fair bit of it, it does go quickly), then a couple of swipes with some emery cloth (or even just sandpaper) to smooth off any burrs and ensure it's smooth enough for hands and pants pockets and you're ready to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never had one dimple or otherwise damage the pipe, so there should be no need to put anything into the pipe to support it. Don't forget, plumbers use these for cutting pipe all day long all around the world - they don't back the pipe with anything, and even a slight dimple would leave them with leaking joints, so it shouldn't be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2022-05-02T15:20:26.083" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11079" CreationDate="2022-05-02T16:01:34.733" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bioethanol is an option.  It's effectively high-proof Everclear with a bitterant to prevent it from being ingested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might have luck finding it stocked at outdoor outfitters (camping/hiking stores), or stores that supply wood stoves which sometimes use it as a fuel in ventless stoves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple examples are Crown &amp;quot;Fuel for Alcohol Stoves&amp;quot;, which &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rei.com/product/837419/crown-fuel-alcohol-stove-fuel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;REI appears to carry&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.modaflame.com/Moda-Flame-Indoor-Outdoor-Bio-ethanol-Fireplace-Fuel--3-Quarts_p_91.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Moda Fireplace Fuel&lt;/a&gt; which appears to be sold through retailers like Home Depot, Ralphs, and Walmart (perhaps online only).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also try contacting local distilleries, if there are any, to see if they sell their heads &amp;amp; tails.  Sometimes they are available for use as cleaning agents&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8277" LastActivityDate="2022-05-02T16:01:34.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13787" CreationDate="2022-05-02T16:31:08.627" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would cutting the copper tubing be likely to damage the blade&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt it since copper is one of the softest metals going, and &lt;em&gt;bandsaw blades of spring-temper steel are already regularly used to saw metals&lt;/em&gt;, including aluminium alloys that are much harder than straight aluminium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously you'll want to test this once or twice and gauge how the cut goes with your blade, but the above should at least indicate that it's not a crazy notion and that excessive wear to the steel shouldn't be a particular worry — in fact some woods would be &lt;em&gt;far more&lt;/em&gt; wearing due to their silica content, silica being significantly harder than copper (7 on the mohs scale versus ~3).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I'd prefer to do this with a blade with much smaller teeth than on a 6TPI but it should still be possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First off, make sure your bandsaw is well adjusted before you start (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tPRrEgnt7wM&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;good guide to this from Stumpy Nubs&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bring the table up so there's minimal blade exposure (to increase support and reduce vibration).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run the saw faster rather than slower.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Feed &lt;em&gt;slowly&lt;/em&gt; for the same reason as the above — so that as many teeth as possible are involved in the cut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're batching out a large number don't do too many cuts sequentially in case this might overheat the blade.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to take an extra precaution and ensure the pipe is as soft as it could be you can quite easily anneal it&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; but you'll have to abrade it inside and out to restore the bright finish. This is very quick work with modern abrasives, but dusty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pipe cutter?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You could of course use a pipe cutter to cut your little pipe segments, but they're not made to produce visually neat cut ends..... they only have to be good enough to work inside a pipe fitting of some kind where they're hidden from sight forever :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you try to batch out correctly sized copper inserts with a pipe cutter you'll hate yourself, trust me&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. If you do end up choosing to make yours this way I would deliberately cut them overlong, planning to sand off the excess from both faces once glued in and the glue has fully cured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Deburring&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Do make sure to factor in the time this will take into your calculations. Regardless of the method used to cut the pipe you'll have to deburr at least the inside of the tubing; there may not be much to choose between methods in this respect, especially with post-cut sanding added into the mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Heat to a dull red, then cool any way you like — there's no quench-hardening in copper, so you can plunge it directly into cold pickling solution if you want to proceed quickly. This has the advantage of flaking off quite a bit of the oxide skin that forms, saving you having to remove it in the next step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; I have to make a few copper ferrules infrequently but regularly for tool handles and even with that relatively small number doing this with a pipe cutter is the only part of the whole job that I dread. Even the tedious and sometimes tricky drilling out of the centre of the handle is less onerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-05-02T16:31:08.627" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13787" CreationDate="2022-05-03T00:36:12.910" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The carbide tipped blade on my Skilsaw slices through ten penny nails like they were butter.  I would consider using a radial arm or chop saw with such a blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12022" LastActivityDate="2022-05-03T00:36:12.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13794" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-03T10:26:56.173" Score="2" ViewCount="1091" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am renovating my childhood wooden rocking horse. I took it all apart, sanding it off, will be priming and painting it later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though it spent over 25 years in a damp cellar, it's in great shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I have a problem with the head. The head is screwed down to the seat. However, it seems that my dad did some sloppy repairs back in the day, using oversized screws, which made a huge gap, made the screw holes too loose, and destroyed the wood around it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for reliable ways to fill this hole, bring the shape to what it originally was, and have it ready, so I can screw it together again (and it will hold) to the seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These screws take quite a load, because when a child is swinging he's holding on to the head of the horse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are bunch of photos:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1I2-YHgd9HlC3_qKyRIyismNU-JQJnspD?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1I2-YHgd9HlC3_qKyRIyismNU-JQJnspD?usp=sharing&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nmiib.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nmiib.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n6pbn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n6pbn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tfyfH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tfyfH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2VTpr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2VTpr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V35e3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V35e3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O1EYY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O1EYY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gZfRU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gZfRU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3754" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2022-05-04T23:13:43.460" LastActivityDate="2022-05-04T23:13:43.460" Title="Need advice how to fill a screw hole in plywood" Tags="|plywood|restoration|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13794" CreationDate="2022-05-03T14:55:03.227" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like there are two problems, and could be addressed individually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hole that's too large is an easy fix using a dowel.  Buy a dowel and use a drill bit of matching size (see note below) to drill out the hole to match--then glue the dowel in to fill the hole.  After the glue is dry cut the dowel off flush, drill a fresh pilot hole, and you're all set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, if the hole is just a little too large, you can dip a toothpick (or a couple/few) in wood glue, put them in the hole and cut them flush, then install the screw.  The toothpicks and glue will reduce the size of the hole and add some fresh wood for the threads to grip into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plywood repair has a few options.  The simplest would be to use something like a wood filler epoxy, like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.abatron.com/product/woodepox/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Abatron WoodEpox&lt;/a&gt;.  That's a product I use quite a bit and is nice because it's something like a play-doh consistency so it's easy to push into gaps without it oozing out, and after curing it sands well.  The downside is that it won't look like plywood--when you look at it edge-on you'll see the repair as a homogenous patch.  You could consider covering both the patch and the rest of the edge with a banding veneer, or painting it solid to hide the repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option for the plywood repair might be a little harder to source, but visually match better.  It would involve replacing the missing portion of each broken ply--if you measure the thickness of an individual ply and can source a sheet of stock of the same thickness you can create a custom plywood plug (or, if you have a table saw, rip some very thin piece to match the thickness).  It doesn't have to perfectly fill the cavity, just cover the hole.  But give this looks like fairly thin ply and a small hole sourcing this might be a challenge and going the putty route might be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: dowels are often smaller than listed -- e.g. a 1/2&amp;quot; dowel might be more like 7/16&amp;quot; diameter.  Use a piece of scrap wood to figure out what drill bit matches the dowel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8277" LastActivityDate="2022-05-03T14:55:03.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13794" CreationDate="2022-05-03T15:31:48.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The plywood is pretty badly compromised.   Restoring a mess like that is a multistep process.   I would proceed as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean all the loose, chippy pieces of veneer out of the blown apart plywood, until you've got only solid, attached wood remaining.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infiltrate the gaps between expanded veneers, but where no wood is actually missing, with a good epoxy.   It'll be a bit futzy getting good coverage, so I would use a medium setting epoxy, not something super fast.   Once you've done this, clamp the plywood back together using flat cauls to distribute the pressure.   Your goal is to get the plywood back to it's original thickness uniformly (except where wood is missing, of course).   Be sure to cover your cauls with epoxy-resistant tape, like brown plastic packing tape, or you'll end up with the cauls glued to the piece. Let this harden completely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Patch the missing outside veneer along the edge with a similar colored wood.   Take a look at some furniture restorers youtubes (Tom Johnson's are great) if you need some teaching on how to cut a veneer patch and match it into a piece.   Trim and plane the patch to match the original piece after the glue is fully set.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You'll be left with some major holes in the piece where significant wood was missing, and where the screw holes are.   You can fill these either with a pre-mixed epoxy putty, or with regular epoxy mixed with with wood shavings and sawdust (this technique gives a very tough, resilient &amp;quot;composite&amp;quot; fill.)  Overfill by a bit, being sure to get a void-free fill.   After it's fully set, you can plane, cut or sand down to final shape.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mark and carefully drill appropriately sized holes for whatever screws you're replacing the originals with.   You're still screwing into plywood end grain, so if you don't properly match the pilot hole to the screw diameter, you'll likely blow the plywood up again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11864" LastActivityDate="2022-05-03T15:31:48.153" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13797" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-03T21:19:47.530" Score="2" ViewCount="826" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first time making cabinet doors with inset glass.  The width of the doors will be about 18 1/2&amp;quot; and the height will be about 30&amp;quot;.  These are shaker style doors with a single middle cross piece.  I am using 3/4&amp;quot; poplar for the wood.  I will be routing a rabbet for the glass to sit in.  The glass will be 1/8&amp;quot; thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The customer would like the stiles and rails of the door to be as thin as possible.  My question is how thin can I make the stiles and rails and still have enough strength to support the weight of the glass and be a fairly sturdy door?  Ideally she would like 1&amp;quot; wide rails and stiles.  But I am starting to be concerned that if the rails and stiles are that thin they won't be able to support the weight of the glass.  Is there any sort of formula or guide used to determine this type of thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5473" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2022-05-04T23:25:44.193" LastActivityDate="2022-05-04T23:25:44.193" Title="How to determine minimum width of cabinet door stiles and rails?" Tags="|cabinetry|door|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13797" CreationDate="2022-05-04T00:21:53.260" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nobody can answer this definitively unless they’ve tried it (I haven’t, for the record), but every time I get an edge case like this, I think to myself, “self, have I ever seen this in the wild?” Then, after I answer myself in the negative, I wonder how come?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One answer is that trades are notoriously conservative because they don’t want their work to break and cause a callback that’ll cost them all of the profit from the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another is that we might lack imagination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, to 1” rails: I think it’s insane. All the contractual clauses in the world dumping liability onto the client won’t matter a bit when they drag you on every review site they can find because “your” cabinet doors sagged and one even broke, sending shards of glass across the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe metal is the way to go. It’s strong enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ps, use tempered glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2022-05-04T00:21:53.260" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13797" CreationDate="2022-05-04T13:10:54.710" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You asked two questions, one about width of the rails and stiles, and one about hinges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rails and Stiles: 1&amp;quot; will be ok, although minimal, if you use appropriate joinery. If it were me, I would (and have) go with 1 1/4&amp;quot;.  In either case, coped joints (which in your case would mean the tenon on the rails being the same depth as the groove for the glass) will not be sufficient long term for these doors.   Use a full depth tenon.   That will give you close to 2 in&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; of long grain glue surface on each corner joint, which will be sufficient.  I would take care though, to make sure you've got straight grained wood with no to minimal short grain run out on both the rails and stiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hinges: You don't indicate what kind of hinges you intend, so this is a bit harder to answer.   The failure modes are quite different for, say, butt hinges, vs offset hinges.   Since you're mimicking Shaker design, I'm going to guess you plan to use butt hinges (I also doubt you'd find offset or concealed hinges that would fit 1 1&amp;quot; stile).   Two will do if you use good quality, properly sized butt hinges, but you want to pay attention to getting the screws right.   You want maximum holding power on the top hinge.   So, use a long screw (you should be able to accommodate 5/8&amp;quot; for sure, and probably 3/4&amp;quot;) and drill the pilot holes to the recommended size and length for the screw.  Finally, since you're dealing with a wood with relatively poor screw holding power, you could consider reinforcing the holes.  Michael Fortune has a nice video on Fine Woodworking showing how to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11864" LastActivityDate="2022-05-04T13:10:54.710" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13794" CreationDate="2022-05-04T13:53:06.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, have you considered remaking / replacing the head?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After considering feedback and your desire to put the horse back into use it might not be possible to satisfactorily repair the original head and have it safely handle the loads of a playful child.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears the piece is a single piece of plywood; a piece of baltic birch of equal dimensions should be easy to cut to match.  The decorations look like they might be permanent marker, and the patina could be partly matched with some sanding with steel wool or a fairly fine sandpaper on a soft block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it wouldn't likely be a perfect match it would be stronger than the original piece and remove the concern of it detaching or being re-broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8277" LastActivityDate="2022-05-04T13:53:06.830" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11507" CreationDate="2022-05-04T16:12:21.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I'd suggest is using a circular saw and clamping a guide to the board.  And if you don't need the full 10' for your railing then cutting it to the rough length will help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of needing to move the heavy piece through stationary equipment this makes the piece stationary.  You probably would need to get a little creative to find a straight-edge that's long enough, and if you take your time setting it up you can use a couple pieces.  You can finish the cut by flipping it and repeating it on the other side--or using a handsaw following the kerf of the circular saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could always use your stationary tools--a bandsaw will work well, as long as you have 10' both in front and behind the saw and appropriate infeed/outfeed support (and/or a second person).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A tablesaw would also work, but as you noted a 10&amp;quot; tablesaw won't be able to cut all the way through.  Typically they have a max cutting depth of about 3 inches--and that's a lot to do in a single pass, especially with a full-kerf blade.  You'd likely want to cut about 1&amp;quot; deep, raise the blade another inch, and do another pass, flip it, and repeat (or use a handsaw to cut the last inch or so).  If the board is isn't straight and true you won't get a perfect cut this way, but if you leave extra you can clean it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8277" LastActivityDate="2022-05-04T16:12:21.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11507" CreationDate="2022-05-04T20:58:55.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I'd do it with a circular saw myself. 4&amp;quot; x 11&amp;quot; x 120&amp;quot; is just a little too much wood to jockey through a bandsaw...and maybe a table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a circular saw and the right setup it could be done quite easily. I'd build a &amp;quot;shoe&amp;quot; to guide the saw and keep it the proper distance from the edge of the wood then just walk it along the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd need to flip the board over to complete the cut, but you wouldn't have to guide the heavy board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastActivityDate="2022-05-04T20:58:55.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13803" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13804" CreationDate="2022-05-05T12:21:44.777" Score="2" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;As part of a bathroom remodel, I've built a custom vanity. For the exterior (face frame, doors, drawer faces) I've painted it with a satin finish latex paint (4-5 coats). The interior is bare wood with polyurethane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our contractor is recommending I spray this (the painted vanity) with lacquer, I would have thought paint alone would be a fine finish. Am I wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I finish the painted wood with lacquer (or really any film forming finish)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT for Additional Details:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the vanity for the master bath (adult use only). The carcass is made from 3/4&amp;quot; plywood (from a big box store, so poplar layers with a Sandee veneer), the face frame is made from solid poplar. Doors are 1/4&amp;quot; baltic birch panel with poplar frame, drawer fronts are solid poplar. Paint is Sherwin William Duration for the additives to resist moisture issues. The top will be quartz, I would be shocked if there's any standing water (horizontal) on the vanity at all. It's boxed on both sides by a knee wall and a full wall and it's a floating vanity, so there's no risk of water pooling on the ground around it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7859" LastEditorUserId="7859" LastEditDate="2022-05-05T21:10:10.770" LastActivityDate="2022-05-05T21:10:10.770" Title="Finish on painted, custom bathroom vanity?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13803" CreationDate="2022-05-05T15:58:50.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As we have no details of the construction, materials, potential for splashing and for water to sit on horizontal surface, and the lifespan you hope for/expect from the project, we can't really advise for your specific case. But the below should help clarify some of the relevant points to help inform your decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would have thought paint alone would be a fine finish. Am I wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nope.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although by no means an exact analogy a good starting point is thinking about what's likely used on the skirting in your bathroom, or in any typical modern bathroom in fact..... then think about the &lt;em&gt;walls&lt;/em&gt;. Yup, &amp;quot;latex paint&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What we call latex paint&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, although they're all pretty similar, is by no means one, homogenous product however. Obviously there are interior and exterior grades to start with, but even within those two categories they can and do vary — hence the differences in finish, wear resistance, lifespan and so forth&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I finish the painted wood with lacquer (or really any film forming finish)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want greater waterproofing than the paint will (typically) provide by itself, yes. Most clear overcoats will also give you greater scratch resistance which could prove a decent bonus in the long term.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing about &amp;quot;latex paint&amp;quot; is that while they are 'waterproof' in the sense that they're not damaged by water, they are not water-blocking. This is actually one of the key selling points of the paint type as exterior paints, they allow water that does find its way into the wood to get back out again, which is good for both the wood itself and the paint film in an exterior context.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your contractor is probably thinking conservatively (no bad thing) and wants your project to have the best chance of enduring in good shape. But whether added protection is truly necessary is a judgment call as much as anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The quality of the paint you've used is one of the two key factors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The material type(s) are as important or more important.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The construction details matter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your use-case is definitely a factor&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Note: does not contain latex LOL&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Somewhat reflected in differences in cost, although never discount the unfortunate reality of name-brand premiums.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; I'd want great built-in reassurance in a vanity intended for general family use than in one that only the adults will use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-05-05T15:58:50.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13805" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13806" CreationDate="2022-05-05T19:40:54.410" Score="3" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making my son a rather modified version of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=stickley+616+library+table&amp;amp;tbm=isch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gustav Stickley's No. 616 Library Table&lt;/a&gt; as a desk, using maple for most of it and walnut for the side/back panels and lower stretchers. I'll be using either birds-eye or curly maple for the top, depending on what I can find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vVR6d.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vVR6d.png&quot; alt=&quot;original desk&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Original version, from &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model/81922145630fced4b49e18913f04bee3/Stickley-No-616-Library-Table-with-Hardware&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, by Sean Headrick.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My son doesn't want the drawers or the lower shelf, so I removed them and for stability added a matching lower stretcher in the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cBGYJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cBGYJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;modified version&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Modified version&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering whether or not this design will be stable enough. I would prefer to add a small rail at the top in the front:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RM8Fa.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RM8Fa.png&quot; alt=&quot;desk with rail at top&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;My preferred design&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He's a little resistant to this, because he wants to be able to sit in his chair cross-legged, and his current desk (an entirely different design) doesn't have a top rail there. I want to add the rail not only to prevent wracking of the desk from side to side, but also as an additional area to attach the top - I'll be using &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B095P44ZJL&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Z-clips&lt;/a&gt; to allow for wood movement. I think it'll add to the aesthetics as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the question is, will the rail provide a significant-enough amount of strength and stability to override his desire for as much under-desk room as possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2022-05-09T15:25:13.653" Title="Will this modified Stickley desk be stable enough?" Tags="|design|stability|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13805" CreationDate="2022-05-05T22:59:24.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering whether or not this design will be stable enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The design without any front rail should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the forces exerted during use are transferred directly down to the floor through the legs, and there's more than enough meat in all the rest of the joinery to take care of most concerns about racking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As highlighted (very much!) in a recent Answer, thick hardwood is &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; stiff, so there's no absolute need for the front stretcher&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; as support for the top, although of course that isn't their only function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He's a little resistant to this, because he wants to be able to sit in his chair cross-legged, and his current desk (an entirely different design) doesn't have a top rail there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The customer is always right. Well they aren't but you get what I mean ^_^&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but also as an additional area to attach the top - I'll be using Z-clips to allow for wood movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worth highlighting that these clips, like figure-8 fasteners, should primarily &lt;em&gt;or exclusively&lt;/em&gt; be used on the sides of a table with a solid-wood top because they minimally allow for movement when oriented in line with seasonal movement as they are front or back, i.e. on the rails and &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; the stiles&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the discussion in Comments:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Adding corbels back into the front is an option that will add support (not needed) but potentially a lot of rigidity to the overall piece. Although the corbels would look good IMO, they are a feature of the original after all, you can add rigidity without any compromise to the clean, open front of the middle design by directly screwing the front legs to the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fixing one edge rigidly to whatever understructure is present isn't normally done in competent work, but is occasionally — where the goal is to have expansion go in one direction only&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;, rather than inwards and outwards from the centre as is usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Or &lt;em&gt;either&lt;/em&gt; stretcher in fact, as can be seen fairly well from a lot of MCM and later stuff which often eliminated them entirely, and sometimes the rails as well!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; This is one reason why both types, although neat and unobtrusive, would not be my choice of tabletop fasteners. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V9G1f.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;These&lt;/a&gt; are fundamentally a better design as they are agnostic as to orientation, as well as being far easier and faster to install. Tend to be cheaper too (when you can find them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; In demilune tables for example, the flat back edge you want to stay put in relation to the wall, so you fix that in place and the front edge then moves back and forth as much as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-05-09T15:25:13.653" LastActivityDate="2022-05-09T15:25:13.653" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13810" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13813" CreationDate="2022-05-08T06:06:21.577" Score="4" ViewCount="1701" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building an L shaped office desk from white oak or hickory boards joined together. The top will be assembled from joining multiple boards together with adhesive and sanding them down to make 2 large individual boards (25x50 and 25x60).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm in the military, and as such I move a lot, so I'd like the desk to be fairly disassemble-able. I figured I would use metal threaded inserts for the wood to be able to easily unscrew the pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for recommendations on supporting the tabletop effectively with a minimal apron. (there will constantly be about 50-75 lbs on the side with two legs)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty new to making something of this size, but I have done smaller projects in the past, some ideas I have are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An apron across the edges (undesireable, but if it's the only way)&#xA;(green) A recessed apron connecting the quad legs together, maybe 5 inches into the table&#xA;(blue) An additional 'leg' support going diagonally at the joined boards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PEUuK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PEUuK.png&quot; alt=&quot;example desk&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12042" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2022-05-09T15:01:31.713" LastActivityDate="2022-05-22T11:41:15.053" Title="Leg placement on L-Shaped Desk" Tags="|joinery|furniture|expansion|legs|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13810" CreationDate="2022-05-08T14:31:04.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While your design certainly has adequate legs distributed adequately to support the top, it is the connection of the legs and the location of the joint at the top that concerns me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should consider the top end of each trapezoidal leg assembly as a hinge.  While the corner legs, at right angles, are very important in stabilizing the desk each individual leg can rotate unless the connection to the top resists.  This is especially important if you attempt to shift the desk by dragging at any time. The simplest way to connect the legs would be to screw them to the top from the top surface.  This, of course will expose the screws and would be undesirable if this is intended to appear finished as a piece of furniture.  An alternative approach would be to glue wood rails to the underside of the top and screw the legs into the rails at their side face.  These rails would be mostly concealed and should not interfere with clearances below, although they might interfere with horizontal clearance to something like a file cabinet. If you add an apron, it will help stabilize the leg assemblies against rotating. If you are concerned about clearance for cabinets or seating, you may want to only add aprons at locations where they are not visible or in the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see two locations for the top plywood joint.  The first is at a 45-degree angle at the corner.  This may be more desirable for appearance, if you are considering a clear wood finish and want the grain to appear so.  If you are not interested in that appearance or are painting the surface, I would recommend running one sheet the full 75&amp;quot; and the other at 35&amp;quot;.  This arrangement will make cutting the pieces to get a square intersection easier. In either case I would recommend creating a spline at the connecting edges and reinforcing the joint with a wood strip running the length of the joint below, glued to one side and screwed with shallow screws from below to the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other possibility short of a full depth apron is to apply a 1x3 glued at the edge to the open areas between legs creating a 1 1/2&amp;quot; edge on the top to which you could apply a thin piece of trim as a face trim. (Or apply a 1x2&amp;quot; to the face of the plywood top to create a slightly stronger and more attractive edge.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional response:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a comment you added that you would make the top from hardwood.  This adds another consideration in the design.  Note that, unlike plywood, the hardwood will expand and contract in the width, but not in the length. The result is that you cannot make fixed joints when connecting the wood in different directions. In your design that would produce stress between the top of the legs and the top in the 25&amp;quot; directions.  The connection should allow for expansion differences.  This is usually accommodated by slotted connections between the top and an apron frame at the top of the legs making the aprons more important. (Sorry!)  IF you search through other answers on this site, you will find plenty of discussion about this issue.  Also note that making the directional change of the top at 45 degrees will eliminate the issue of expansion between the two top pieces since both will then expand and contract the same amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2022-05-09T15:00:47.637" LastActivityDate="2022-05-09T15:00:47.637" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13810" CreationDate="2022-05-09T14:19:28.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few small changes will likely make a significant difference in the rigidity of the desk.  I added some doodles to your diagram, to go with my notes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, a slightly thicker top (7/8&amp;quot; or 1&amp;quot;) will give significantly more strength.  Personally I've found that 3/4&amp;quot; for tops or shelves is right on the cusp of being too thin--that extra 1/8&amp;quot; is worth a little extra weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, an apron inside of the legs will be very helpful to act as a gusset to keep the legs from flexing.  It should be fastened to the tops as well as the legs, and the larger it is the better (for hardwood I'd suggest something around 1&amp;quot; thick by 3&amp;quot; tall).  It's the long yellow boxes on my doodle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A third considering would be to move the two legs in the corner apart, so the one near the seam can support the seam, and there could be gussets between the legs to help support the tops.  If you plan to belly up to the desk these might bump your knees--I'd keep them set back about 12&amp;quot; from the front edge to avoid this--but it will depend on your posture and body dimensions.  These are the orange boxes in my doodle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps an alternative to the long gussets would be a plate, permanently attached to the longer top, with the shorter top resting on it as a ledge with a limited number of fasteners (expansion and contraction of the shorter top will need to be considered--fasteners may need to be in slots to allow some movement).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cSesj.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cSesj.png&quot; alt=&quot;Revised doodle&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS) Yes, my doodle has overlapping boxes--it's just meant to convey some options that might be competing and would need some more detailed thought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PPS) The &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sagulator&lt;/a&gt; (sag calculator) is an interesting tool to estimate sag.  It's geared towards shelves and might not provide much value here--but it can demonstrate that a little extra thickness can make a significant difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8277" LastActivityDate="2022-05-09T14:19:28.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13810" CreationDate="2022-05-09T15:03:58.593" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although at 3/4&amp;quot; thick solid-wood panels made from strong hardwoods such as white oak or hickory are plenty stiff, there's a fair bit of unsupported span on designs like this so some minor tweaks would be beneficial IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When there's too much unsupported material on L-shaped desks even gentle pressure from leaning on the surface in the key working zone at or near the inside corner adds a lot of strain and I've had a look at a few commercial desks with no front support which did sag. The dip is usually &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; excessive, not enough to cause structural concerns certainly, but still is more than I'd find acceptable in normal use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it is important to build for the what-if scenario, like if someone were to sit on the desk right in the middle; it's designing for this sort of occurrence that makes additional support highly desirable to semi-essential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for this reason I think&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;one or more diagonal supports coming up from the rear legs;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a supporting 'batten' spanning the gap between rear legs;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;are important additions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Diagonal support&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Diagonal supports don't have to extend too close to the front edge, where they might interfere with sitting, and to save on hardwood these could just be triangles of plywood. Any such support would be invisible when working at the desk but could be seen from further back, so if the aesthetics are important then I think solid-wood struts win over plywood triangles here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Batten&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;But a batten board joining the outsides of the rear legs, acting as a beam of sorts, could provide nearly equivalent support and would be completely hidden from view. The more you move the legs out from the corner as you suggest in the Comments the further forward this board is positioned and the more support it adds, but, the longer it needs to be naturally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here again this could be made from plywood rather than solid wood (e.g. two strips of 3/4&amp;quot; laminated together, edge-up) so it won't add a lot to the cost. I'm assuming material being bought for this project specifically, rather than scraps of wood/ply&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; being used up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Outside legs&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If you want to keep the current outside leg positions because you think this looks best then don't change this part of the design, but if you're not wedded to them being where they are in the image I wanted to suggest you move them inboard of the ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The accomplishes 2 1/2 things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It great reduces the unsupported spans.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It makes the table easier to hold on to when moving fully assembled.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I think it looks better, but obviously this is a YMMV kind of thing :-)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I think this will remove any need of aprons, reduce build time and material costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Desktop joint&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I go back and forth about which I prefer for these purely in terms of looks, but once you have to factor in wood movement things get more complicated. I am fond of the look of a 45° join in work surfaces and L-shaped desks with chipboard/particleboard but they're problematic if you're dealing with solid wood&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also something that might not be immediately evident, there's the potential for far more wasted wood with a 45° joint — the shorter panel which currently can be made with all boards a smidge over the final 50&amp;quot; length would have to include at least one board a little over 75&amp;quot; long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the joint as pictured might seem totally the way to go, but this is a cross-grain situation.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, to allow for movement: the longer panel has to be able to move away from this joint (expand to the left in the image) OR to push &lt;em&gt;and pull&lt;/em&gt; the shorter panel with it as it expands and contracts during seasonal changes in humidity, &lt;em&gt;while still allowing the shorter panel to be free to expand and contract forward from its back edge&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; If you'd prefer to use solid wood but have no single board long enough, this is a prime candidate for a glued-up piece that uses up multiple scraps, or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/tricks/board-stretching-joint/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;board-stretching&lt;/a&gt; technique (using a long diagonal cut) if you have one board that is close to the length needed but not quite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; They can be a much-magnified version of wide mitre joints, which became something that carpenters preferred not to do because of their proven likelihood of opening up at the inside or outside over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-05-22T11:41:15.053" LastActivityDate="2022-05-22T11:41:15.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5873" CreationDate="2022-05-11T11:42:53.393" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you use wood glue and sanding “dust” from the same species, it will dry darker than the wood you are filling, and affect the area around the nail hole or blemish so it will not take stain or finish the same as the wood around it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BEWARE! You must completely remove all glue around repair. It must be sanded thoroughly with a block, not your fingers. Your fingers will not get the repair flat and it will show up as a bump or wavy on the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the wood is finished, the only way to repair the area is to sand with a block down to bare wood, be sure all glue residue has been removed and sanded smooth. Only then can you refinish. This is especially important on woods with high tannin that darken with time like Cherry. The problem may not show up for months after the project is completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12052" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2022-05-12T03:06:46.137" LastActivityDate="2022-05-12T03:06:46.137" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13816" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13825" CreationDate="2022-05-13T00:29:18.443" Score="-1" ViewCount="5885" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make my own mix of beeswax and mineral oil. The mineral oil sold at Home Depot costs over 6 times more than the stuff sold in Walmart for constipation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are they the same thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12058" LastEditorUserId="12058" LastEditDate="2022-05-19T20:07:38.723" LastActivityDate="2022-05-19T20:07:38.723" Title="Is the mineral oil sold for constipation the same type of mineral oil used for cutting boards?" Tags="|finishing|outdoor|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13816" CreationDate="2022-05-13T01:02:08.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.   Both are food grade mineral oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11864" LastActivityDate="2022-05-13T01:02:08.297" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13818" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-13T04:23:29.500" Score="2" ViewCount="56" Body="&lt;p&gt;To be clear, I'm not talking about an air filtration unit, which is often suspended from the ceiling using chains...I'm talking about a fan used in one and two stage dust collection systems.  Mine happens to be the small, cheap Wen that's notoriously loud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an effort to reduce noise, would it be possible to suspend the dust collector from the ceiling using chains or would there be too much momentum/movement?  My system's duct work will run along the ceiling and drop down to various tools and stations, so the floor isn't an option.  But to minimize noise traveling through the walls, I had the idea to hang it from the ceiling using four chains.  Just wanted to know if the reason I can't find any info on this is because it's a big fat &lt;em&gt;no&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12053" LastActivityDate="2022-05-13T04:23:29.500" Title="Can you suspend a dust collector motor from the ceiling with chains?" Tags="|dust-collection|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="11" ClosedDate="2022-05-16T00:12:25.353" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13820" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13821" CreationDate="2022-05-13T07:17:38.480" Score="1" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I'm arranging dimensional lumber in a frame there are three basic arrangements I can make.  Is there a standard for using these arrangements?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is an image of a CAD design of 2x4 dimensional lumber in 3 arrangements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gVYyQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gVYyQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Three differently arranged frames&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Having the long ends overlap - Supports vertical forces like house frames.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Having the short ends overlap - Any benefit to this? it seems weak compared to 1.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Having each side overlap once in a spiral - Square frames have each board cut to equal length.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12049" LastActivityDate="2022-05-13T13:46:36.547" Title="Difference between basic arrangement and methods of dimensional lumber frames" Tags="|joinery|technique|design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13820" CreationDate="2022-05-13T13:46:36.547" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are probably standard framing practice&lt;strong&gt;s&lt;/strong&gt; (note the s) taught formally as well as good handed-down working practices all over the world, with far less consistency than one might expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I'm arranging dimensional lumber in a frame there are three basic arrangements I can make. Is there a standard for using these arrangements?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not as simple as this but in terms of basic principles orientation matters — in general you want wood to support wood rather than for fasteners to do the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, your 1 for long side up, 2 for short side up, and 3 perhaps never LOL (although it would be fine laid flat obviously).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But #1: external fixturing changes &lt;em&gt;everything&lt;/em&gt;; with metal fastener plates it is now normal practice to totally ignore this basic principle, simplest example is probably joist hangers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But #2: assuming glue and screws/nails only with no external metal fixtures other construction details matter hugely; there's obviously actual joinery options to consider first, but also modern construction practices such a stressed-skin construction. With stressed-skin construction (think torsion box) you can essentially break all the rules of framing — you can orient framing members the 'wrong' way &lt;em&gt;and even gaps don't matter&lt;/em&gt; (!) because the plywood/OSB skin does so much of the work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-05-13T13:46:36.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13816" CreationDate="2022-05-14T14:59:38.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Mineral oil. baby oil. dormant plant oil; all come out of the same refinery unit. All are &amp;quot;food grade&amp;quot; (sterile) unless contaminated by bottling, perfumes, etc. They may have somewhat different viscosity depending on the boiling range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3966" LastActivityDate="2022-05-14T14:59:38.647" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13823" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-15T02:41:12.820" Score="4" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wuBoJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wuBoJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I unknowingly overfilled a plant on my wood table. It left a water mark. I looked up how to get rid of it and tried using an iron with a towel and that didn’t seem to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also tried Vaseline with no success and olive oil/ vinegar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stain has gone from light to dark. I am afraid I have now stained it with the oil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips for how I can get my wood table back? I am completely devastated as this was  passed down to me from my late grandparents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12067" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-05-15T16:17:59.877" LastActivityDate="2022-05-15T16:17:59.877" Title="Need help getting stain out of wood table" Tags="|wood|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13823" CreationDate="2022-05-15T15:07:42.090" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The water has penetrated the finish on the table top, and stained the wood underneath.  It is probably possible to remove the stain with oxalic acid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I doubt you can do it in a way that esthetically matches the rest of table top unless you strip and treat the entire surface.   You have to remove the finish in order for the oxalic acid to work, and it's nearly impossible to remove the finish from just the stained area, and then replace/match the look of the old finish in just that area - even a slight difference in tone or sheen in the newly finished patch will stand out on the table surface.  The bleaching action of the acid may also subtly change the tone or color of the wood, and you'll want that effect to be uniform or very well blended across the table top.  If the entire surface is refinished properly though, any difference between the new finish and the edges, legs, etc of the table won't be apparent, as it separated from the old by edge and shadow effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's really important to you, I would find a re-finisher, restorer to do the work.   It's a tough thing for someone with little experience in wood finishing to get right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11864" LastActivityDate="2022-05-15T15:07:42.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13816" CreationDate="2022-05-16T14:20:18.707" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are they the same thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Check the label.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're asking about two unspecified products, so it's hard to say definitively whether they're both exactly the same thing or not. Mineral oil sold for specific applications sometimes has additives that you might or might not care about, such as fragrance and/or stabilizing compounds, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.walgreens.com/store/c/johnson%27s-baby-pure-mineral-oil-original/ID=prod904-product&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;even when they're described as &amp;quot;pure mineral oil&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, anything described as &amp;quot;mineral oil&amp;quot; will be very nearly the same thing as &amp;quot;cutting board oil,&amp;quot; and they're likely interchangeable for your purpose, but check the label to be certain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2022-05-17T14:06:54.737" LastActivityDate="2022-05-17T14:06:54.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5873" CreationDate="2022-05-16T16:38:10.600" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remember hearing a while ago that sawdust and wood glue can be used as a wood filler&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you don't have to use glue as the binder. You can use boiled linseed oil or whatever finish you plan to use, and you can add stain or pigment to try to match your final finish. The filled spots still won't be exactly the same as the wood itself, but it can look more like end grain than wood filler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-05-16T16:38:10.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13827" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13828" CreationDate="2022-05-17T12:06:20.463" Score="0" ViewCount="391" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found a great old oak table and chair set which the neighbours wanted to get rid off. It is well used but in good condition. The photo below shows the wear and tear the set has had over years (decades?) of use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G2ugK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G2ugK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see there is not much of restoration needed only re-fininishing of certain areas. There is one heat ring too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if using Howard's Restor-A-Finish in Golden Oak will be sufficient? Should I follow up with Feed-N-Wax too as recommended by Howard's, or is that not necessary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not tied to any particular product or brand. I want to do a good job rather than a quick job using a magic oil that can spoil the piece in the long run. So, I thought I would ask here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt; While a professional restorer would be an ideal option, it is not viable for me now. My plan is to re-finish it to a point such that wear-and-tear can be minimized till a professional can be called in. As a lover of old furniture, I would like to do my best to protect it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12075" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-05-18T18:34:05.960" LastActivityDate="2022-05-18T18:34:05.960" Title="Can I touch up old oak chairs and tables using Howard's Restor-A-Finish?" Tags="|furniture|refinishing|oak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13827" CreationDate="2022-05-17T16:10:07.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if using Howard's Restor-A-Finish in Golden Oak will be sufficient?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read what Restor-A-Finish &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.howardproducts.com/product/restor-a-finish/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;is actually for&lt;/a&gt; and you'll see that this isn't it. The key point being:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;blending out minor scratches, blemishes and abrasions&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; Golden Oak may have been the wrong choice in colour. The darker parts visible in the photo appear to have been finished in a colour more like Walnut or possible Dark Oak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However it may help with one other thing (although note that if you haven't purchased it yet there are other ways of dealing with these):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Removes white heat rings and water marks, sun fade, oxidation, smoke damage and most other blemishes&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back to the major issue here, 'scratch cover' type products can work well for minor dings and scrapes this has gone beyond that — the top of the chair back looks like you're down to bare wood which takes the necessary intervention up up a notch or two. Touching up major losses in finish is notoriously difficult, even when it's merely a clear finish&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; you're dealing with, and these appear to have a coloured finish on them as noted above which complicates matters further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you can certainly attempt a touch-up here it will be difficult or impossible to get a seamless repair without prior finishing experience, and a good or dead-on colour match may require more the use of more than one coloured finish. So I would suggest having realistic expectations about how well you can bring these back, unless you undertake a complete refinishing where you go back to a level playing field. Obviously this is &lt;em&gt;a ton&lt;/em&gt; of work that you may not want to take on (given the style of chairs will all those spindles I would be hesitant myself to say the least).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although this set doesn't appear to be high end the cost of a like-for-like replacement (buying new) is now so high I think it would be worth taking this to a reputable restorer in your area. They're in a position to restore the major losses, possibly to a level where nobody can tell that any work has been done; and furthermore they can undertake a complete strip-and-refinish job should that be the way you chose to move forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I follow up with Feed-N-Wax too as recommended by Howard's, or is that not necessary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Erm, to be perfectly honest I don't think you should use Feed-N-Wax for any purpose (because there are better furniture polishes that cost less&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;). And, furniture polishes should ideally be used on finishes in good shape and with minimal or no losses where bare wood has been exposed&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Because new clear finish is often no longer the same colour as aged finish of the same type. Which shellac colour tends not to change much or at all over time, but with varnishes and lacquers too there is a significant ambering effect over the years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; And you can even make your own, see link in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5448/caring-for-a-sealed-finish/5453#5453&quot;&gt;this Answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Because you don't want to introduce furniture polish directly into the wood; this has been especially problematical since silicones have been an ingredient in commercial polishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-05-17T16:10:07.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13830" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13843" CreationDate="2022-05-18T19:30:03.363" Score="3" ViewCount="778" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am reframing a &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/13827/can-i-touch-up-old-oak-chairs-and-tables-using-howards-restor-a-finish/13828#13828&quot;&gt;question from before&lt;/a&gt; as my requirements have changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found a great old oak table and chair set which the neighbours wanted to get rid off. The table has a manufacturer label from Bogdon and Gross. Though the wood looks like Oak (I may be mistaken), I found a listing online which says that this is Maple: &lt;a href=&quot;https://shackeltonauctions.hibid.com/lot/64440-221224-316418/maple-bogdon-and-gross-company-table-and-4-chairs/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link to external post&lt;/a&gt;. But, I think the one I have is Oak as the grain pattern looks too busy to be maple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The set is well used but in good condition. The photo below shows the wear and tear the set has had over years (decades?) of use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RAdHT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RAdHT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see there is not much of restoration needed; only re-finishing of certain areas. There is one heat ring too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking to touch up the table enough to prevent further wear and hopefully to improve the appearance a bit. I am not in a position to hire a professional restorer and would like to do this on my own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have looked into options such:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stripping: Not needed as furniture are in decent shape.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Waxing: Will need removing varnish. And will require regular reapplication&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ready Made products (Howards Restor-A-Finish): Does not seem to be applicable for this (as pointed out in linked question)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to go about with the touch up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12075" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-05-25T17:40:09.333" LastActivityDate="2022-05-25T17:40:09.333" Title="Advice for retouching old oak/maple furniture at home [finish losses]" Tags="|refinishing|oak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13832" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-19T17:06:56.017" Score="2" ViewCount="48" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just received my window shutters back after a company stripped years of lead paint off with caustic soda. The shutters are still quite damp, i'm wondering whether they need to be dried flat or upright?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried to Google the question but nothing conclusive. The shutters are large and fairly heavy with panel detailing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12097" LastActivityDate="2022-05-19T18:34:23.427" Title="Drying window shutters after stripping" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13832" CreationDate="2022-05-19T18:34:23.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may not make any difference, but the structural integrity of the shutters and how straight-grained all the wood is may make drying flat preferable if you can arrange it somehow. I would do this myself given the chance, just to be on the safe side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stacking them on the ground is probably sufficient (the bottom one not in contact with it) but if they can be supported higher up on sawhorses, an old bench, some old chairs all the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If on the ground raise the bottom one on some bricks, a couple of lengths of 2x4, something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If using 2x4s the bottom shutter can go directly on them, if using bricks/sawhorses/bench/chairs you can protect them and/or it with a few layers of newspaper before placing first shutter&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Then build your stack, using thin strips of wood in between the shutters to ensure airflow. And final step, place heavy weight on top to counteract any tendency they might have to warp (there may be none, this is just an insurance policy). You can use concrete blocks, stacks of bricks, buckets/old paint tins full of damp sand, weight-training weights or whatever for the weight, but any metal should not be directly in contact with the top shutter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Now leave them for a week or longer. A few days &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be enough, but I'd wait at least a week to be on the safe side and longer won't hurt&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is similar to how planks are &lt;a href=&quot;https://s3files.core77.com/blog/images/2013/07/wood-drying-03.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;stickered&lt;/a&gt; when air-drying if you're having trouble visualising it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; There may be some slight transfer of printing to the wood but this won't matter, regardless of whether you intend to use a clear finish instead of repainting, because some sanding is absolutely guaranteed to be needed and this should easily take care of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; It won't hurt to leave them stacked this way for an extended period, so don't worry if life gets in the way and they get ignored or forgotten about for some weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-05-19T18:34:23.427" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13834" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13835" CreationDate="2022-05-20T00:35:02.770" Score="2" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm designing a custom wardrobe with doors for my tiny NYC apartment. I am planning to have a 3/4&amp;quot; thick birch frame with 1&amp;quot; full overlay aluminum-framed mirror doors. Are there any side effects to having the doors thicker than the frame?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To generalize this question consider three cases:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Doors thinner than frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Doors and frame are the same thickness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Doors thicker than frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the pros and cons of each considering we have full overlay doors with full overlay hinges?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12098" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-05-20T14:39:30.950" LastActivityDate="2022-05-20T14:51:55.907" Title="Side effects of varying door and frame thickness" Tags="|furniture|design|cabinetry|hinges|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13834" CreationDate="2022-05-20T06:54:37.977" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any side effects to having the doors thicker than the frame?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To generalize this question consider three cases:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;• Doors thinner than frame. • Doors and frame are the same thickness. • Doors thicker than frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3/4&amp;quot; material is very common, so with the same thickness or thicker it's no problem, follow normal practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If doors are thinner the only issue is maybe finding suitable screws that will not go through the door, or the tip arrives slightly below the surface and creates a bump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good tip for such doors is to use metalworking screws, which have a flat tip and finer threads. They have better hold in wood too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-05-20T14:51:55.907" LastActivityDate="2022-05-20T14:51:55.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13836" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-23T05:50:45.073" Score="3" ViewCount="1143" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are building an outdoor pergola and foundation work was done by a contractor who built a cement foundation that is 22' by 12'.  I have no idea why he made one side so much larger than another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will it be fine for me to join two 11' 2x8 and span it across 22' side?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's an outdoor pergola, nobody would be standing on it but I just want it to withstand wind obviously don't collapse but never done span this wide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: 5/23 18:05&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is a picture describing what we have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;one side so much larger than another&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I meant 22' side is so much longer than 12' side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is he building the foundation to the specs that were agreed upon in the contract?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No I'm not building a foundation, I'm building a pergola on top of the already built foundation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the loads the beam has to carry, and the material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would not cary much load at all except a shade and some wirings for it.  I'm open to any materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;will it be fine for me to join two 11' 2x8&amp;quot; How? Obviously the way you intend to join them would be critical to even a gut-level guess at whether this would be good enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about doing an overlap board on each side or one side of the two 11' boards. But I'm open to any ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry I learned wood working from my father who doesn't speak English so I don't know if specific technique has an English word for it or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;welcome to Woodworking!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I4TrO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I4TrO.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12105" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2022-05-24T14:50:21.537" LastActivityDate="2024-01-12T00:33:04.720" Title="Can I span across 22' without support for an outdoor pergola?" Tags="|lumber|outdoor|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13838" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13844" CreationDate="2022-05-24T07:01:01.753" Score="3" ViewCount="342" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got an old table saw, a Toro with 3/4 hp motor driving the spindle with a V-belt. It loses power and almost comes to a standstill when ripping 1/2&amp;quot; pine. I’ve bought a new belt, ensured it’s not slipping, changed to new blades and not much improvement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With no load the machine is actually quiet, the arbor bearings are smooth, and there’s almost no vibration. When cutting, the motor doesn’t jam, the circuit breaker doesn’t trip even when the motor’s almost stopping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone can tell me what’s happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Table saw is very similar to this image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ubi8X.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ubi8X.png&quot; alt=&quot;old print ad for a similar saw&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://thepatriotwoodworker.com/forums/topic/22769-any-of-you-ever-own-a-toro/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Patriot Woodworker&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/865/3297.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The manual&lt;/a&gt; (PDF download.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photo of motor plate:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/idda5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/idda5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;saw motor info plate&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did replace the plug with a new three-pin plug. Cut the old one out as it had circular pins. Live wire (black) is on the left pin, neutral on right and the top as ground.  Not sure if that would affect anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Thank you for the voltage tip. I'm at 110V. And it looks like you folks are right, can you check the picture and confirm that this is indeed wired for 220V and that I need to follow the instructions on the plate to rewire to 110V?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gXmLx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gXmLx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12110" LastEditorUserId="12110" LastEditDate="2022-05-25T19:33:29.930" LastActivityDate="2022-05-25T20:25:56.453" Title="Old table saw stalls under load [Toro]" Tags="|table-saw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13836" CreationDate="2022-05-24T07:21:24.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;will it be fine for me to join two 11' 2x8 and span it across 22' side&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this does not need to support load I think joining two boards at ends will work, if it is done with strength. It would be good to get longer boards if possible so you can create some type of overlapping joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about doing an overlap board on each side or one side of the two 11' boards. But I'm open to any ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has always been needed to make longer boards than were available. Everywhere in the world &amp;quot;scarf joints&amp;quot; were created for this purpose, some of them very complex like puzzle pieces!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Pl6l.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Pl6l.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are much simpler versions of scarf, and simplest is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1aOk8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1aOk8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;scarf joint&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From this question &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/707/how-can-i-join-two-boards-at-the-ends&quot;&gt;How can I join two boards at the ends?&lt;/a&gt; eBook linked in same answer has entry on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gutenberg.org/files/21531/21531-h/21531-h.htm#THE_SCARF_JOINT&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;scarf joints&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later, in 19th century and into 20th century simpler joints &lt;strong&gt;or plain butt joint&lt;/strong&gt; were sometimes reinforced with steel plates bolted through. This saved on timber and was also &lt;strong&gt;much&lt;/strong&gt; stronger than plain scarf joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wooden boards overlapping joint&lt;/strong&gt; works in similar way to these steel plates. Boards must be on both sides. If boards longer than 11' can be bought create short scarf joint, overlap joint or half-lap joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Additional reinforcement&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would not hurt to add more reinforcement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hardwood dowels at least 12&amp;quot; long. Use 3-5. Because you are working with 2x8 boards dowels can be 1/2&amp;quot; or 5/8&amp;quot; diamter. Remember to bore holes deeper than needed so there is space for excess glue!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Angled braces or struts. Pergola construction should probably include struts anyway. In addition to direct support and stiffening of structure &lt;strong&gt;they shorten the span&lt;/strong&gt;, reducing load on central joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qFMFF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qFMFF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastActivityDate="2022-05-24T07:21:24.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13836" CreationDate="2022-05-24T14:56:59.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I actually built a trellis that had an approx. 22' span using 2&amp;quot;x12&amp;quot;x12'treated lumber. It consisted of two thicknesses joined together with one face centering the 12' piece with 5' pieces on each side.  The other face consisted of two 11' boards butt joined at the center.  The two layers were secured to each other with nails at 12&amp;quot; 0c. top and bottom.  The only weight it supported was a wood trellis with a flowering vine.  This seemed plenty strong to begin with but failed after 10 years.  The reason was that moisture would trap between the inner and outer beam and eventually rotted out the treated lumber.  Determined not to have it fail again, I upped the ante by using similar 2x12&amp;quot; pieces using a 1/4&amp;quot;x 11'x 22' steel plate sandwiched between them.  I used steel bolts instead of nails with the bolt ends tucked in drilled recesses.  I then covered all the bolts with a piece of continuous trim.  The most important thing was that I capped the new beam with an aluminum top cap flashing to prevent water getting between the new sandwich layers. This may be a bit of overkill, but after another decade, it still looks like new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2022-05-24T14:56:59.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13838" CreationDate="2022-05-25T15:59:20.500" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First:&lt;/strong&gt; I would stop testing until you think you have diagnosed and rectified the problem as running the saw and having it stall can itself burn out the motor, since as soon as the rotor stops the stator begins to heat up. This is one of the classic ways a motor can burn out, either due to a locked shaft (e.g. from a broken bearing) or from overload forcing a stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The motor plate seems to indicate that this is a dual-voltage unit that can run on either 110 or 220. &lt;em&gt;Or at least it was&lt;/em&gt;, there's no telling what has been done to it in the (50+?) years since it was installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You haven't indicated which voltage you're running it at, assuming it is still dual-voltage 220 would be preferable if available as per the consensus &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/threads/table-saw-110-or-220-volt.102794/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and in other forum threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With no load the machine is actually quiet, the arbor bearings are smooth, and there’s almost no vibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be safe in assuming the windings are in good shape and the insulation also given the smooth running under zero load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming the voltage isn't the primary or sole cause of the issue, and you've apparently ruled out a slipping belt and dull blade, other possible causes are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;worn brushes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;decayed power cord&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;slipping blade.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Investigate both the brushes and the cord while you're at it since it can't hurt to replace the two of them even if only one appears to be the culprit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presumably the washer is installed on the correct side of the blade! A slipping blade could be caused by a worn arbor washer. Obviously another possible cause is simply the nut not being tight enough, but this can be directly caused by a worn washer as the limited amount of threading cut into the arbor may not allow the nut to be tightened sufficiently if the washer is too flat or worn thin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-05-25T15:59:20.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13830" CreationDate="2022-05-25T17:34:59.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suppose I should preface this by saying there is no TL;DR here!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to go about with the touch up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As always there is no one way to go about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are basically two options when it comes to colouring wood, colouring it directly, i.e. &lt;strong&gt;staining&lt;/strong&gt;, or the use of a &lt;strong&gt;coloured finish&lt;/strong&gt; of some kind. Obviously a combination of these can also be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of the usual preference for colouring the wood directly&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; the original appears to have been done with a coloured finish so coloured finish it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I often wouldn't recommend it but I think you'll be best served by using &amp;quot;gel stain&amp;quot; here. Don't be fooled by the (stupid) marketing name, this product is not a stain but instead a coloured varnish, artificially thickened to some level of gel consistency&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need both this and a clear topcoat, either varnish or lacquer. Lacquer would mean a spraycan since you don't have spray equipment I'm sure. Varnish, particularly polyurethane varnish, is also available in spraycans but I wouldn't advise it here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spraycan varnish could work well for quickly applying finish to the top of the seat backs, but it won't easily allow for minor touchups here and there throughout the set which we can see from just the one photo are going to be required. And more importantly it would be tricky to refinish the tabletop this way (in addition to working out quite expensive).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of the spraycan version I would recommend you buy a tin of standard oil-based polyurethane. It must be oil-based for what you'll do next, which is to convert it (in batches as needed) to wiping varnish. Pretty much everything you need to know to get up and running on how to make, use and finish off wiping varnish is included in the pages from Bob Flexner reproduced in my previous Answer &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5891/how-to-fix-very-light-scratches-in-polyurethane-finish&quot;&gt;to this Question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although you'll be minimally covering the finish that's still present, there will be a certain amount of this inevitably since the bare areas run seamlessly into areas where finish remains. The basic rules for overcoating an existing finish are covered in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/13069/good-methods-for-scuffing-sanding-ready-built-furniture-with-contours-for-repain/13074#13074&quot;&gt;a recent Answer&lt;/a&gt;. It boils down to a simple catchphrase, &lt;em&gt;clean and matt&lt;/em&gt;, but read the previous Answer through before you even shop for supplies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaning agents. Basically dish soap in warm water is enough here, but use a commercial product like Krud Kutter if you have it already and you like how it works.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scuffing and/or sanding supplies. My advice: don't skimp here. You won't need a lot and whatever you get will last throughout this one project and although worn won't be in any way worn out when you're done (you might actually get months and months of use from the right products).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gel stain. Unless you get very lucky and one colour happens to be a really great colour match you'll need to get more than one colour. Then either use them sequentially or mix a custom batch which you arrive at through testing&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Polyurethane varnish, &lt;em&gt;gloss only&lt;/em&gt;. Do not be temped to buy satin or semi-gloss because the existing finish is not super shiny.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mineral spirits. You'll need this for general cleanup, brush cleaning (IF you use any brushes, this project won't actually require any but you can use them if you wish) and of course for converting your poly into wiping varnish.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Copious amounts of paper towels or lint-free cloth rags. See safety note below.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brown paper. Brown paper from grocery store bags is good enough for this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Optional:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0000 steel wool.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brief summary of procedure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 1&lt;/strong&gt;, clean everywhere you'll need to apply finish.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Be thorough. Work in sections, don't start at one end of the set and work through to the other. Rinse residue when you're done using clean water &lt;em&gt;and wipe dry&lt;/em&gt;. Afterwards be sure to allow plenty of time for the bare wood to dry out! A full day minimum.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Step 2&lt;/strong&gt;, scuffing or light sanding.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This is to prep the wood for new finish, dull the existing finish adjacent to the bare areas so it can successfully accept new finish, and to feather out the edges where needed.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Step 3&lt;/strong&gt;, apply &amp;quot;gel stain&amp;quot; using paper towels or lint-free cloth.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This is the step that will require the most artistry, since you'll both be applying colour and wiping it away (standard methodology for &amp;quot;gel stain&amp;quot;) while each time trying to seamlessly blend it into the surroundings. Don't expect the job to be done in one step, even if you luck out and find a single &amp;quot;gel stain&amp;quot; that's just the right colour plan to do at minimum two rounds of colouring. &lt;em&gt;It's much easier to add colour than to remove it.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Note: judge the colour wet! There may be some or a lot of dulling when &amp;quot;gel stain&amp;quot; dries, with consequent colour change but the wet appearance will be restored when the varnish goes on.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Step 4&lt;/strong&gt;, once the colour steps are thoroughly dry it's time for wiping varnish.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;On the seat backs and the tabletop I would advise a minimum of three coats and 4-5 would be better. Elsewhere on the chairs just two should be sufficient (and just one rarely looks right), but add more if your patience holds out.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Step 5&lt;/strong&gt;, bringing the appearance together.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;After the varnish has had a chance to harden up sufficiently (a week or more) you will very lightly abrade the surface to bring the surface finish in line with the rest. A vigorous scuffing with the rough side of brown paper followed by a buff with a clean cloth &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be all that's necessary here, but if the gloss level is very starkly higher a gentle abrading with 0000 steel wool first is what I would advise&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Safety note&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Paper or cloth wet with both gel stain and varnish are a fire hazard. They can ignite on their own without an external spark or heat source if disposed of carelessly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dry flat on the floor or draped over a railing. Once dry and stiff they are safe (and legal) to dispose of in your home refuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; It's preferable for a number of reasons, one being that it is more durable because it's &lt;em&gt;in&lt;/em&gt; the wood with a clear finish on top acting as a protective layer. As opposed to a top layer containing all the colour which when it wears away reveals bare uncoloured wood, as is the case here and on much modern commercial furniture (read modern as: since the early/mid 20th c).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Some are more goopy than others. There's no firm reason to prefer one consistency over another, other working properties are more important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Measure the mixture carefully &lt;em&gt;and write it down&lt;/em&gt; in case you need to mix another batch to complete the job, as well as possibly for future touchups. Don't expect a small batch of your mixture to remain usable in the container you store it in, unless there is no airspace or you can replace the air with an inert gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt; You can do this with fine Scotch-Brite but I find the action of 0000 steel wool superior personally even though it's slightly messier to work with. Note that opinions definitely vary on this and if you would prefer not to have to deal with the fine steel dust that 0000 generates by all means go with Scotch-Brite, it sure lasts longer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-05-25T17:34:59.190" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13838" CreationDate="2022-05-25T20:25:56.453" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The update with the added picture of the wiring diagram indicates to me that this is wired for 240V operation since there are 3 wires connected to terminal 3. AIUI, it will run on 120V in this configuration, just not very well, which is what you're discovering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest that either you need to rewire this end for 120V operations or put a proper 240V plug back on the other end of the power cord.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the wires are very old and dirty, so making out the colors from your picture is difficult. It looks like the wire that leads to the left from screw #3 is the red wire, while the wire that goes down, then loops and goes back toward the top is the white wire. The 3rd wire from that screw appears to be black, but that could be the green wire being very dirty. If you're going to rewire the motor, I'd suggest cleaning these wires with a mild cleanser to get the dirt off and make sure you can correctly identify the wire colors. It might be as simple as a wet rag to get them cleaned up enough for proper identification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have, or can wire a 240V circuit for this, you'll be much happier with operations than if you rewire the motor for 120V operation. If you're comfortable with doing home electrical work (and it's legal for you to do so where you live), check out the &lt;a href=&quot;https://diy.stackexchange.com/&quot;&gt;Home Improvement&lt;/a&gt; sister site - there will be a ton of questions there already on wiring a 240V receptacle. If not, hire an electrician. It probably won't cost all that much, though copper prices are through the roof right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2022-05-25T20:25:56.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13845" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13846" CreationDate="2022-05-26T12:55:19.530" Score="2" ViewCount="552" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it safe to use pine and poplar interior trim pieces together or will I have trouble later from things expanding/contracting differently in the future?  Specifically, I have pine door jambs and would add poplar doorstop trim.  Curious if poplar casing on pine door jambs would have issues too.  I'm guessing most people wouldn't hesitate to do this but I am extra cautious about having pieces warp later on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11691" LastActivityDate="2022-05-26T16:02:17.383" Title="Can I use pine and poplar together in trim?" Tags="|wood|wood-selection|wood-movement|trim|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13845" CreationDate="2022-05-26T16:02:17.383" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Every&lt;/em&gt; piece of wood will expand and contract at somewhat different rates. Even two pieces of pine from the same tree will likely be different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Old furniture (like a chest of drawers) used to be made of oak or maple or mahogany, while the backs were often made of pine because it was cheap and nobody would see it. If these pieces have lasted for centuries, there's no reason your jambs and trim made of poplar and pine will have any issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As noted in a comment, though, you'll want to paint this, not stain it. Poplar isn't a particularly pretty wood for staining, but it's &lt;em&gt;fantastic&lt;/em&gt; for painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2022-05-26T16:02:17.383" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13847" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13855" CreationDate="2022-05-30T17:56:27.113" Score="2" ViewCount="284" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a two person desk that was made years ago from 16mm wood, PG bison boards. The top is a 32mm top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is attached to the legs and mid-section with biscuits where wood glue was applied and the biscuits were inserted into slots cut by a router. That's the way my carpenter did it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am currently getting a new desk stand, and would like to use the current top I have.&#xA;Is there a way to separate the top from the legs?&#xA;Or should aim on the wood glue first to &amp;quot;loosen&amp;quot; the joint somehow and pry it apart?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not tried anything as yet, trying to weigh my options at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help and guidance is greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12126" LastActivityDate="2022-05-31T18:33:57.333" Title="Can you separate a biscuit wood joint?" Tags="|wood|glue|router|joints|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13847" CreationDate="2022-05-30T21:44:04.303" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not being familiar with PG Bison I had to Google it and it appears to be melamine-faced board or one kind or another:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;MelaWood® is PG Bison's leading brand of decorative melamine faced board (MFB)....&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;MelaWood® uses either BisonBord® or SupaWood® as a core....&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lansdowneboards.co.za/view/products/boards/pg-bison/pg-bison-boards-entry&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a chance the hold of the glue to the edges of the legs is fairly weak (because glues don't bond well to melamine) in which case all you really have to overcome is the glue hold between the biscuits and the core material, BisonBord being chipboard/particleboard and SupaWood being MDF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be honest the glue hold on biscuits even in solid wood is rather famously not great! It will typically be much weaker in either chipboard or MDF because they're friable materials &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; tend to over-absorb glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quite apart from this you'll be doing any investigatory prying/levering on what is now and what will again be the underside of the desktop, so I don't think you're risking much if the separation isn't quite as neat as you'd like. Any ugliness that results will never be visible unless someone crawls under the desk and looks up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if it looks like it is putting up a lot of resistance it would not hurt to heat the joint line very well using a hairdryer, or more cautiously with a heat gun. The glues most likely to have been used here are both softened by heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-05-30T21:44:04.303" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13850" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-30T22:57:25.777" Score="-1" ViewCount="320" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anyone familiar with this type joint? Looking to build something similar but worried it will be very wobbly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://areastore.com/en/products/86375-krisel-estante&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://areastore.com/en/products/86375-krisel-estante&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Pcq8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Pcq8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z4F2v.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z4F2v.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12128" LastEditorUserId="12128" LastEditDate="2022-05-30T23:07:34.453" LastActivityDate="2022-06-02T17:15:06.920" Title="Bookshelf joints" Tags="|joinery|technique|furniture|joints|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13851" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-31T08:05:09.907" Score="2" ViewCount="600" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a pig-ear handrail (I believe that’s what you call it) coming loose from the wall, and I'm looking for some advice on how to make it secure again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm unsure if a secure repair is possible. It is hanging loose away from the wall as shown in the picture and has lots of movement in it. The bottom, as shown in the picture, has a little movement but it’s mainly at the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the way up the bannister there are cracks but no movement (movement only at the bottom).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q3CZf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q3CZf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hand rail, top and underneath&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6brcp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6brcp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PGZLJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PGZLJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12130" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-05-31T15:02:39.047" LastActivityDate="2022-05-31T18:29:02.007" Title="Handrail coming away from wall" Tags="|joinery|screws|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13851" CreationDate="2022-05-31T14:19:04.923" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;These handrails are installed with screws counterbored into the lower curve of the molding, extending into wall studs.  The counterbores  are then plugged and trimmed back to match the curve of the molding.   If the wall material is crushable (drywall, e.g.), there will be a backer board installed into the wall to provide sufficient strength; if the wall material is sufficiently firm (cement plaster over wooden lathe, e.g.) the backer may be ommitted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for your rail to be loose, one or more of three things is going on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The screws have come loose (or even broken) in the studs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The screw heads have &amp;quot;wallowed&amp;quot; out the molding.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The wall material has been crushed by downward pressure on the rail translating into lateral pressure on the wall, bending the screws and promoting wallowing of the screw heads.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the picture, it's not completely clear, but I think there is a backing board in your installation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no easy fix.   It's not even clear that you can salvage the existing rail.   To do the job right, you'd have to find and remove the all the screws holding the rail, repair the holes in the molding and if there is damaging to the screw holding power of the studs, repair that as well, then remount the rail, replug the holes, trim, sand, and repaint.   You'd likely be better served with a new molding, rather than repairing the old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may able to avoid the full repair above by creating new mounting holes in the molding, above the originals, and slanted somewhat upward into the studs.   But it's going to be difficult to get the railing pulled back tight against the wall or backer with the old screws in there, and if there is any damage to the wall or backer, it's not going to be a very robust mount.   And you'd still have all the work of plugging and fill and sanding the new mounting holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, if you just want it fixed for safety reasons, and don't care about the esthetics, you could try the latter approach without going to the trouble of counterboring, plugging, and filling, using self drilling construction screws through the foot of the molding upward into the studs.   Won't be pretty, but it could provide an adequate mechanical solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11864" LastEditorUserId="11864" LastEditDate="2022-05-31T18:29:02.007" LastActivityDate="2022-05-31T18:29:02.007" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13853" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-31T16:50:46.613" Score="-1" ViewCount="148" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for options to create toy figures as seen in the attached pictures. The figures are wood and between 3/8 and 1/2 inch thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What type of saw, or would I need a CNC router to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0XhRr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0XhRr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m hoping to make a lot of these so I don’t want to do this by hand. First time trying to make toy figures so just hoping to get some ideas and good advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12132" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-06-01T14:36:24.793" LastActivityDate="2022-06-02T00:31:25.963" Title="How to make a toy figure as seen in picture?" Tags="|cnc|toy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13853" CreationDate="2022-05-31T18:08:05.647" Score="4" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coping saw. But you don't want to do it by hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scroll saw. A powered version of the coping saw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Router and template. While a CNC router is nice, it's a bit pricey, where a simple 1/4&amp;quot; collet router and a pattern bit with a bearing will be &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; less expensive.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Note that the router will cut round corners. The inside corners at his legs will not come out square without additional work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may have trouble finding small enough router bits to get into the small areas at his neck and between his legs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Realistically, if you don't want to cut by hand, you'll want to use a scroll saw. This is the type of work they excel at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2022-05-31T18:08:05.647" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13847" CreationDate="2022-05-31T18:33:57.333" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it were me, I'd just use a nice trim saw to cut through the joint to separate the top from the legs. You're getting rid of the legs anyway, so what difference does it make if you cut a mm or two off of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, if you don't want to use (or don't have) a flush cutting saw, cut through the legs really close to the bottom of the desktop, then sand what's left of the legs off the underside of the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2022-05-31T18:33:57.333" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13856" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-31T22:23:11.313" Score="1" ViewCount="259" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to build some crates like those shown in the attached photos (including the Indy crate!) but I am having trouble getting started because I am not great at coming up with plans myself. I'd really appreciate some feedback/help to get me started!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MLZ1N.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MLZ1N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 ) Building the sides. For most of these crates, each side of the crate seems to have a frame pieces (either the 4 edges in some of the crates, or the 2 pieces on the bigger crate photo), and then the interior slats or solid sheet of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am guessing that the slats/sides are screwed (or glued I guess) to the visible frame pieces from behind,so that the screws are not visible? It's also possible that the corners are 2x2's/4x4's with dado cuts so that the slats slide into them, instead of being attached from behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 ) Joining the sides. It looks like most of the sides are probably beveled to sit against each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two options that I can think of to join are 1) build an interior structural frame and then just screw each side to it or 2) screw the sides directly to each other. I would prefer #2, but I am not sure how strong that would be. Would really love some help on the best way to do this, or any plans that might exist (I have looked quite a bit, never found anything).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These will be sitting outside on the patio, so they will be exposed to the elements, and maybe sitting in some puddles when it rains. I would like to make them long lasting, so I was thinking I could make them out of wood that is suitable for weather resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12133" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-06-01T15:44:11.590" LastActivityDate="2022-06-08T15:02:12.827" Title="Help getting started building decorative wooden crates" Tags="|finishing|design|wood-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13853" CreationDate="2022-06-01T16:18:43.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's also the bandsaw. The scrollsaw has the advantage of being able to start in a hole in the middle of the work, but in this case it looks like you only need to cut the outline. (I'm assuming the thin black line between the man's body and arms is painted on) Depending on the tightness of the curves you might need a narrower blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking though that if you had either of these saws already on hand you'd already know the answer. There's also potentially a jigsaw but I find this doesn't work so well in thicker wood. In the curves, the blade will deflect outward resulting in a side that is out of square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9939" LastEditorUserId="9939" LastEditDate="2022-06-01T16:26:10.497" LastActivityDate="2022-06-01T16:26:10.497" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13856" CreationDate="2022-06-01T16:21:13.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When building actual storage/transport boxes or crates the joinery is primarily focussed on strength, with a secondary component of speedy/expedient construction&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. Which is why you'd probably never see mitred corners in real-world examples. But since your boxes are for decorative purpose only this doesn't really apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although glued mitres tend to be weak in practice there are numerous ways to reinforce on the inside to increase durability, at the cost of some internal space&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. See previous Question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/6212/joinery-terminolgy-for-posts-in-apple-boxes-crates&quot;&gt;joinery terminolgy for posts in apple boxes / crates&lt;/a&gt; for some related insights and tips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in short, you can pretty much put them together in any way you can envisage and they'll function just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Frame challenge&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Now the above said, I see no reason one would choose to make boxes as in the pictures except to deliberately avoid seeing any end grain. This seems to me a silly aesthetic choice&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; of the original maker given the subject being emulated.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to what are supposedly being mimicked not being this way, it's actually &lt;em&gt;both stronger AND simpler/faster&lt;/em&gt; (see first point) to make them the way that actual transport boxes or crates would have been! And because functional boxes/crates tend to be built in a limited number of ways there are abundant references to be found online, rather than the scant or almost non-existent references to building crates as pictured, as you discovered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These will be sitting outside on the patio, so they will be exposed to the elements, and maybe sitting in some puddles when it rains. I would like to make them long lasting, so I was thinking I could make them out of wood that is suitable for weather resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may or may not be necessary, depending on just how long you want/expect these to last. But if you want to use naturally rot-resistant species see the list from the FPL in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3959/what-is-an-easy-way-to-seal-wood-for-outdoor-garden-use/3965#3965&quot;&gt;my previous Answer&lt;/a&gt; which also has other info relevant to your requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is currently a complication that needs to be mentioned however, and that is the high cost of wood. Almost all wood has increased in price markedly due to Covid-related production and supply issues. Where only a couple of years ago redwood or WRC might have been reasonable suggestions for something like this it's possible neither is cost-effective now in a lot of locations, or even all across the country.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll have to do some investigation into what's affordable where you are right now — there is wide regional variation in what's available, abundant ($) or in high demand locally ($$$), so you could easily end up purchasing wood that someone elsewhere in the country simply couldn't afford for such a project at the present time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and maybe sitting in some puddles when it rains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given this specifically — and again more accurately mimicking the real thing — sacrificial 'runners' or attached feet of some kind would be advisable. These are a feature of lots of transport boxes and crates, as well as traditional tool boxes/chests, to keep the bottom surface dry if placed on wet ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's Chris Schwarz writing about these in &lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.lostartpress.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/boarded-tool-chest.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Boarded Tool Chest&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The Rot Strips&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;The last bit of work on the bottom is to affix the two rot strips to the&#xA;underside of the bottom boards. There are two (at least) philosophies when it comes to rot strips. One philosophy is to make them from pine and nail them on with iron nails. If these start to rot, they will fall off and you will know it’s time to replace them.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The other philosophy is to make the rot strips from a water-resistant species, attach them with epoxy and brass screws. And then oil and wax them. These rot strips will refuse to rot or soak up water.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Both methods protect the chest from moisture.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Hence why dovetailed corners would only be used for the most expensive stuff (despite this being when craftsmen could still hand cut workmanlike dovetails with astonishing rapidity), and why finger joints/box joints only showed up once there were machines available to cut this joint speedily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Quarter-round, triangular or square-section moulding or glue blocks can be glued and/or tacked into the internal corners and they add a substantial amount of strength to a simple corner joint. Note that the &amp;quot;Hightower Industries&amp;quot; box and the one beside it may feature something like this to judge by the screw heads visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; It was considered important only in high-end stuff, or more accurately &lt;em&gt;was&lt;/em&gt;. This is an outdated concept now that craftsmen and consumers have embraced exposed joinery as a visible expression of craftsmanship. Hence the modern popularity of dovetails, which used to be primarily a functional &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; decorative joint — which is why on historical furniture they're principally visible only on the sides of drawers, which spend 99.999% of their lives hidden from view.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-06-08T15:02:12.827" LastActivityDate="2022-06-08T15:02:12.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13853" CreationDate="2022-06-01T18:43:49.477" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What type of saw, or would I need a CNC router to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the face of it, a scroll saw seems like the obvious choice. However, when you want to make a lot of something, it's a good idea to try to reduce the number of operations that you need to do per item. For that reason, I'd look at using a band saw, and specifically a 14&amp;quot; band saw, not a dinky little benchtop one. A typical 14&amp;quot; bandsaw can cut material up to 6&amp;quot; thick, and twice that if you add a riser block; a benchtop bandsaw is usually limited to about 3 1/2&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thought is to cut the profile from a single, thick workpiece, so that you end up with one figure that's maybe 6&amp;quot; thick, and then slice that into several final-thickness figures. That'll save you a LOT of time compared to cutting each one out individually. Frankly, even a small band saw would let you do five or six at a time, which is still a huge improvement over one at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trying to cut a tall, skinny thing on a bandsaw is error-prone and dangerous, so start with a large workpiece and lay out as many figuress as you can fit. Try to do it such that you can do most of the shaping on the saw without cutting each blank free from the larger piece; that way, you'll be working with an object with a large base until you free them at the end. After you've cut the blanks free, sand the cut sides. You glue sandpaper to pieces of some of the waste material to make custom sanding blocks that will make sanding to much quicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Change to a wider, thin-kerf blade on the bandsaw and use the fence to slice each blank into figures. You'll want to practice a bit on scrap first; even with a fence, cutting a nice straight line on a bandsaw takes some getting used to. It's the best tool for the job, though, because a band saw takes the narrower kerf than any other saw except for a scroll saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A stationary disk sander or belt sander will help you sand the cut faces smooth. If you're really making a lot of these guys, take the time to make a jig that'll hold the figure and assure that they're held flat and sanded to a uniform thickness. I think that's really a whole other conversation, but the idea is to be able to insert the figure into the jig, sand it without having to think, flip it over and insert in another spot in the jig, sand again, and end up with a figure that's exactly the same thickness as all the others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, you're ready to paint them. Again, that's probably a separate conversation, but I'd go with stencils and an airbrush to do as much as I could. This is an easy place to introduce some variation if you want to: you can just change the colors you use with the same stencils so that some have, say, a blue shirt and hat, and red overalls, different skin tone, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to make a LOT of these figures, e.g. thousands, cutting them out a dozen at a time with a band saw isn't going to work very well. Instead, you'll want a spindle shaper, preferably &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-3-hp-three-spindle-shaper/g9933&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;one with three spindles&lt;/a&gt;. You'll also need three sets of custom knives: one set for each side, since those are different, and one for the top. You could get away with just two sets if you redesign the figure to flatten the brim of the hat and get rid of the crease in the top of the hat. Cut the gap between the legs with a table saw before you start the rest of the shaping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at your example figure, you can see that the two faces of the piece are end grain, which is why it's showing some cracks. I think it was probably made by using a shaper to cut the profile into one long stick, and then slicing the individual figures off that stick as above. Using a shaper would give you very consistent results, and might even eliminate the need for sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2022-06-02T00:31:25.963" LastActivityDate="2022-06-02T00:31:25.963" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13850" CreationDate="2022-06-02T17:15:06.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; all of what follows assumes this will be used to hold a fairly normal number of books, which requires fairly significant weight holding even assuming paperback, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/9758/is-support-on-three-sides-of-a-long-poplar-bookshelf-enough/9763#9763&quot;&gt;previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;. If yours is intended for display items the strength requirements tend to be far lower, and in fact some 'semi-decorative' shelf units are not particularly strong/stable but work well enough for their intended purpose because of the light loads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone familiar with this type joint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few different ways this basic design could be implemented as the Comments illustrate. There's no way of knowing how &lt;em&gt;this&lt;/em&gt; shelving unit is actually constructed without examining it, or finding an assembly diagram or something similar if one exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking to build something similar but worried it will be very wobbly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I say above, I have a strong suspicion the commercial one &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; wobbly, given the diameter of the dowel 'legs', unless the fit of the dowels in drilled holes in the shelves is particularly tight, &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; the design allows them to be drawn together firmly&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You most certainly wouldn't want to drag one of these across the floor when fully loaded O_O&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally if I were building something similar I would prefer to go up &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; in the diameter of the dowel, possibly as much as doubling them, although I'm aware that this significantly alters the aesthetics of the piece&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since very thick dowels in the species you wish to use may be commercially unobtainable you may need to think about creating them yourself. Obviously a lathe is the first choice here but if you don't have one you don't have one. Luckily there are numerous guides online to creating fat dowels using other power tools — chiefly the router (in a table, with a suitable bit) but also the table saw (using a custom sled). It's also quite easy to envisage an efficient way to make dowels on a bandsaw, again with a sled of some sort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can produce round stock by hand using standard planes and then scraping and/or sanding to complete. The method is a lot of work but can create surprisingly perfect cylinders with care and attention, so I wouldn't dismiss the option completely if this is the method of last resort in your case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't forget the shelves&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;For a self-built version don't overlook the shelves themselves as part of the strength of the structure. &lt;strong&gt;Material matters.&lt;/strong&gt; This project would not be a good candidate for plywood unless you scale the piece down, or double up the ply to make substantially thicker shelves (assuming use as a bookshelf).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original is stated as being made from acacia, which is a stiff hardwood, so if planning on closely matching the shelves of the original you'll want to use a similarly stiff hardwood (red oak or better) or softwood (Doug fir). But if you're OK with going thicker this widens the choice of possible species significantly, to the point where you might reasonably include other softwoods — but note that if you want matching dowels they would need to be much thicker to be equivalent strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; For example metal screw connectors are hidden within the dowels, although the joint to the top shelf remains questionable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Possibly enough to actually spoil the looks so much that its appeal is lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-06-02T17:15:06.920" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13861" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-03T12:23:55.283" Score="0" ViewCount="186" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a new jointer and after aligning it I took a piece of white oak flooring and face planed then edge planed and the faces were nicely square with the edges but the ends were not. So I went over to the chop saw and took my nice edge against the fence and cut the ends and noticed the edge to end was slightly askew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I took my square and placed it against the fence and checked the blade and it was indeed slightly askew. I loosened the angle bracket and adjusted it until the 0 degree detent was exactly square against the blade and tightened back down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n5Mts.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n5Mts.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Blade is square to fence&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took another piece of the flooring and chopped off one end and it was perfectly square with the edge.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mp1MN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mp1MN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;End cut square to edge&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nGFl3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nGFl3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Measure end&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I flipped the board 180° and chopped off the other end. It also was perfectly square with the same edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uITfY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uITfY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;other end is square&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;So now I have two 90° angles from that one edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I butted one of the 90° ends against the fence and cut the other edge which should be parallel to the other but it is not. In fact, it is skewed quite a bit and I can't understand how this is happening.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L7NXS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L7NXS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;not square end&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12140" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2022-06-03T13:51:20.837" LastActivityDate="2022-06-03T15:25:28.163" Title="Chop saw not square after alignment" Tags="|miter-saw|saw-blade|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13861" CreationDate="2022-06-03T15:25:28.163" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The square I was using as reference was not square. I measured it at 87.6º which would account for the inaccuracy. I found it by using the square against three other framing squares and they were all off. Then I looked at what I was using as three could not all be off the same amount!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12140" LastActivityDate="2022-06-03T15:25:28.163" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27" CreationDate="2022-06-05T05:50:13.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been using a hand saw (and only a hand saw) for the past year for my cat room project. Cutting a straight line is uber-difficult (i can't make a straight cut with scissors). No workshop, just my deck and yard. Because as female I don't weigh or carry as much mass above waist, to compensate I put my left foot (I'm right-handed) on top of the board (basically a lunge), with hips and shoulders square to the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This secures the board better than holding with hand. Mostly it allows for greater force in the sagittal plane than i could exert standing behind the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this is the most effective position for me, I need my work surface about 2' high. I use a patio bench that has slats running short side. After drawing my line (I prefer a square), I place my line for cross cut within the gaps between the slats and abut my line and saw up against one side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting with a few &amp;quot;hesitation cuts&amp;quot; I follow the edge which physically prevents skewing to one side. If I do drift off line, it can only be in a positive direction (into surplus material) allowing me to just trim any error off providing a clean straight cut. (the bench is metal- would gauge wood.) I use a stainless steel razor toothed pruning saw for everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12145" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2022-06-09T13:19:34.363" LastActivityDate="2022-06-09T13:19:34.363" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13865" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-06T00:20:05.540" Score="1" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;We're remodeling a bathroom in a house built in 1920 and we're trying to stay (mostly) true to the original design. The thing we love most about this house is the woodwork. It's simple but very elegant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest problem with the bathroom remodel has been the lead paint on the trim around the window and doors.  We want to do stain and varnish instead (like the rest of the house [even if it was originally painted - though it had been halfheartedly redone numerous times based on evidence from our demo, so it's hard to tell what it was like originally]).  After trying and failing with stripping the wood, I'm putting my dad's hand-me-down tools and my novice/mediocre carpentry skills to task.  So I'm basically remaking all the pieces of the window.  All the cuts are very simple and straightforward except when I got to the sill...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with any other window sill, it slopes outward, but I was surprised to notice that the top piece of the sill curves from level to sloped!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My dad originally surmised that it actually had sagged over time, but when I looked closer, the cuts of the &amp;quot;wings&amp;quot; seem to go with the bend (though perhaps I'm mistaken).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought Maple boards at Lowe's yesterday and was duplicating all the pieces to later stain, but I'm not sure how to duplicate this.  Was the sill cut this way?  Did they &amp;quot;bend&amp;quot; it somehow?  How can I reproduce this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/06kt5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/06kt5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sill from top&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zhfaM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zhfaM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sill vertical from end&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11184" LastEditorUserId="11184" LastEditDate="2022-06-06T18:46:37.460" LastActivityDate="2022-06-06T18:46:37.460" Title="How to bend maple for window sill restoration" Tags="|bending|steam-bending|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13865" CreationDate="2022-06-06T13:09:36.333" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like in the comments, to me that isn't the original intention, but years of aging.  wood bends and cups and twists.   You have gravity you have paint on one side, but the bottom  not so much, so weather and rot have softened it allowing it to cup or sag (take your pick).  I've worked on several old homes and that is just one of the things age and weather does to wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cut and dry my own lumber and I have plenty that naturally cup like that and then I have lots of work to 'fix' the problem.  I would go with the straight boards and I think you'll be happy with how sharp it will look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2022-06-06T13:09:36.333" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13867" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-09T14:22:08.890" Score="2" ViewCount="85" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for the bolt fixings for a large (mahogany/walnut?) wardrobe whose fixings were lost in delivery. However I am mystified as to what mechanism was used - looking for guidance on what clues the holes left may offer. It was from a house clear I believe so no way of going back to a previous owner. Searched everything I can think of to no avail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below gives an impression of the wardrobe - lovely finish so keen to find a way to put it back together. One of the two sets of doors and a side panel shown below.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GhQS4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GhQS4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;One of the two sets of doors and a side panel shown here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Floor panels fix and support the side panels with a dowel + bolt fixing as shown here. The left hole has a threaded insert (temporarily removed)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZvjbH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZvjbH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Floor to side panel fixing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My challenge is what fixing allowed a bolt to be secured on the end not screwed into the threaded insert. Is this some type of unusual cam lock? There is a conical hole from which the other end of a bolt could be partially accessed but I am not aware of any cam style mechanism that works in this way. Access holes/cam nuts have straight sides - and being solid hardwood any fixing would have had to be strong.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LyEv2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LyEv2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Conical hole, presumably allowing a bolt to be tightened/locked&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Any ideas on what mechanism might match here?&#xA;I’ve looked all over for markings that might indicate make and so narrow down search but nothing other than a stamped underlined 6 on each section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All ideas much appreciated!&#xA;Jonny&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12156" LastActivityDate="2022-06-09T14:22:08.890" Title="Hunting for mystery wardrobe fixings/bolts" Tags="|joinery|furniture|cabinetry|fasteners|hardware-identification|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13868" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-10T18:12:28.047" Score="1" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;If any of you make toys (cars trains ships etc) what do you ask for in terms of timber dimensions when you go the timber yard please?&#xA;I assumed I would ask for 1” x 2”.   Or 1” x 3”  in 4’ lengths&#xA;But I don’t really know what sizes it comes in, nor what is the cheapest way to buy it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m looking to use Beech, unless you recommend anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance&#xA;Martin&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12160" LastEditorUserId="10942" LastEditDate="2022-06-11T04:10:06.217" LastActivityDate="2022-06-11T04:10:06.217" Title="What sizes of wood do I order from the timber yard?" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13868" CreationDate="2022-06-11T03:30:49.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ordering at the lumberyard is usually fairly dynamic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can go in with a list of what’s optimum, but then it always seems like something is unavailable in some dimension you want. (“No, we don’t have 8 footers, we have 12s.” “We don’t have 1x4, but we do have 1x6.”)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I usually go in with both my optimum order and a detailed list of what makes that up. (And a knowledge that I can turn a 2x4 into a pair of 2x2s.) With the detailed list, I can (relatively) quickly recalculate based on what is actually available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It’s a good idea to call in advance and see if the have stock of approximately what you’re looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as cost, there usually isn’t an obvious way to save money, except in the case where you can pick through a lower graded stack of lumber and find pieces that will still work for you. Not all places are set up like that, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last point: don’t completely write off the big box stores. Some have a decent supply of hardwood, and you can pick through the defects to find wood you can use. As a general rule, there are many many more useless boards there, compared to a good lumberyard, but you have the luxury of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2022-06-11T03:30:49.733" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13870" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-11T20:53:39.763" Score="-3" ViewCount="63" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m stuck with two box springs that are 90cm wide, 200cm long. I need them to fully support a mattress that is 190cm wide, 200cm long. My thought is to attach two 1.8 cm wide, 200 cm long boards to each box spring. My question is what’s the best way. I could somehow attach all 4 boards together and place them between the box springs. I have a board underneath that can support all that, even if they aren’t attached. Another way is to attach two boards to each box spring. For aesthetic reasons, I would attach all the boards on the inside, not one each on each side. The question is how - glue? Bolt and nut? Another idea is a way I haven’t thought of but you have.&#xA;With the tools I have, the first two ideas are the most workable.&#xA;Thanks in advance for your help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12162" LastActivityDate="2022-06-13T19:29:01.563" Title="Using 4 boards to fill a gap" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2022-06-13T20:23:06.030" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13872" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-13T14:10:12.140" Score="4" ViewCount="210" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make panels to place around trees to protect them from deer. I'd like to make the panels modular so I can assemble 3 of them in a triangle for a small tree, 4 in a square for a bigger tree, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I want to be able to fasten one panel to another at an angle as obtuse as 120 degrees (90, 108, etc.), and also have it be temporary, so I can reassemble the panels as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of joinery or hardware would make this possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Update&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clarify, I probably should call these frames instead of panels. What I want to do is make wooden &lt;em&gt;frames&lt;/em&gt;, within which is wire mesh or maybe a lattice of sticks (which literally fall from the sky in enormous quantity). This would be much cheaper than solid wood, look nicer, and allow air and light into the tree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the wood I want to join is the vertical framing of these frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4640" LastEditorUserId="4640" LastEditDate="2022-06-14T19:57:45.620" LastActivityDate="2022-06-16T00:04:29.907" Title="How to fasten, temporarily, panels at an obtuse angle?" Tags="|fasteners|joints|hardware|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13872" CreationDate="2022-06-13T15:45:27.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.custommade.com/hexagon-frame/by/andrewbetschman/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mitered picture frame&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GWTml.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GWTml.png&quot; alt=&quot;hexagon picture frame&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One can easily cut nearly any number of sides with a miter box and hand saw or a table saw, etc. Joining can be done with biscuits, pocket screws, dowels or any combination of the above. Glue is probably contraindicated as you reference temporary, plus one must get the structure around the tree rather than over the tree. One could place doublers over each joint rather than attempt edge-on fastening, as appearance appears to be unimportant for this task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the shape is assembled, perhaps two shapes, one can screw into the edges of the shape to secure the panels. One can use material from 1x2s up to 2x6s which would be seriously strong. The shape can be constructed as in the image or each member could be rotated 90° for a larger surface on which to attach the panel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using construction screws and a power driver would make short work of assembly and disassembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2022-06-13T15:45:27.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13872" CreationDate="2022-06-13T19:12:03.370" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of joinery or hardware would make this possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hinges.&lt;/strong&gt; Specifically, regular old butt hinges with removable pins like you'd use for hanging a door. Attach the mating leaves of each hinge to the right and left sides of each panel, respectively, so that the right side of one panel will mate with the left side of another. To assemble, just line up two panels and drop in the pins. You can connect any number of panels this way, and bend the joints to whatever angle you need. If you have many panels, you might want to nail a few braces across the tops of the panels to fix the angles, but a tree that needs that many panels to surround it probably doesn't need protection from deer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were doing this, I'd make a simple jig to ensure that the hinges are installed in the same locations on every panel so that they'll all mate up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-06-13T19:12:03.370" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13870" CreationDate="2022-06-13T19:29:01.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thought is to attach two 1.8 cm wide, 200 cm long boards to each box spring. My question is what’s the best way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forget trying to attach boards to the box springs. Just buy a sheet of 1/2&amp;quot; or 3/4&amp;quot; plywood and lay it on top of the box springs, with a 10 cm gap between the box springs. The weight of the mattress will hold the plywood in place, but if you're worried about it a few screws through the plywood into the box springs will lock everything in place. If you lack the tools to cut the plywood to size, any home center will be happy to cut it for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-06-13T19:29:01.563" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13872" CreationDate="2022-06-16T00:04:29.907" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As deer barrier, if you want something movable as you've suggested, I'd go to a farm store and get 50&amp;quot; cattle panels (these are welded 1/8&amp;quot; or 6 gauge wire panels, 16' long). Cut them into thirds and you'll end up with two 56&amp;quot; and one 64&amp;quot; rigid welded wire panel from each (16&amp;quot; is lost if you cut back to an upright on each side). Get a bunch of snap rings or mini-carabiners to join them at the corners of your polygon. Deer won't generally jump into an enclosed space, so the 50&amp;quot; is sufficient to hold them. The panels are rigid, easy to move around, and easy to store against a wall. –&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you instead really want to build wooden framed wire panels, then to join these, I would use screw eyes and bolts for the &amp;quot;hinges.&amp;quot; Get some lag screw eyes with a 1/2&amp;quot; or so eye. On the left side (say) of each panel, put them in pairs - one pair top, one middle, one bottom on each left stile. Leave 2&amp;quot; between the eyes in each pair. On the right side of each panel put a single screw eye top, bottom and middle, centered in the spaces created by the left side pairs. You can then match these up in your corners, and drop 5/16&amp;quot; carriage bolts 3&amp;quot; or so long in each joint. This will be enormously easier to manage than actual hinges, since there is a fair bit of float to accommodate the fact that your orchard floor is not perfectly flat, and the panels will not want to stand perfectly vertical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11864" LastActivityDate="2022-06-16T00:04:29.907" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13878" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-16T19:29:29.540" Score="5" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently cut down 3 Acacia sieberiana (Paperbark Acacia) trees. The trunks are around 30-45cm in diameter. The wood is known for being extremely wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to use the stunning timber at a later stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it better to store them stacked in 38mm slabs or should I leave them as logs and only cut after a year??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12186" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-06-17T12:13:42.630" LastActivityDate="2022-06-18T05:11:10.573" Title="Store timber as logs or as slabs? [Acacia sieberiana/Vachellia sieberiana]" Tags="|storage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13879" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-17T04:28:09.423" Score="3" ViewCount="479" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm very new at building and working with wood in general. Had 1 project before this one but it was just a bunch of acoustic panelling frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to build a shelving unit for boardgames similar to the &amp;quot;BoxThrone&amp;quot;, standing 79 inches tall, 33.5 inches wide, and 17 inches deep. The darker pieces are 2x4s, and the lighter pieces are 1x3 furring strips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is to have 2 kinda empty spaces in the middle to place any number of 14 by 14-inch shelves of any height (I'll be using pilaster strips for this) in such a way that it's completely freestanding without having to worry about it breaking apart if it's moved. I also kinda want to put it on wheels... and not have it up against a wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this design ok? Is this sturdy enough? Or is it way too overbuilt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm really not sure and would love some feedback on this design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ihKs4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ihKs4.png&quot; alt=&quot;fusion 360 mockup of design&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12188" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-06-17T12:28:27.740" LastActivityDate="2022-06-17T15:35:04.673" Title="Building a sturdy kinda narrow and tall freestanding shelving unit for boardgames" Tags="|joinery|furniture|strength|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13878" CreationDate="2022-06-17T05:51:20.573" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your trees will maybe begin to decay if stored as logs. When sawmills need to store logs for extended time it is often kept floating in water. Logs can be safely stored in water for years, out of water big chance of fungus attack or drying defect and yield &lt;strong&gt;always&lt;/strong&gt; lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are lucky and your logs survived 1 year storage drying clock starts after sawing slabs, so wood will not be ready to use for over 3 years!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Saw now, seal end grain very well (most important!), stack with stickers, tie together with strong strap clamps or band clamps. Your slabs ready to use in 24-28 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sn68i.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sn68i.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;slabbed logs&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodcraft.com/blog_entries/how-to-air-dry-lumber-turn-freshly-cut-stock-into-a-cash-crop-of-woodworking-woods&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How To Air-Dry Lumber: Turn Freshly Cut Stock Into A Cash Crop Of Woodworking Woods.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastEditorUserId="10942" LastEditDate="2022-06-18T05:11:10.573" LastActivityDate="2022-06-18T05:11:10.573" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13879" CreationDate="2022-06-17T15:35:04.673" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Boxthrone&amp;quot; is a brand name for a modular steel shelf unit designed specifically for game boxes. It has shelves that can be adjusted to fit different sized boxes. Since each game box has it's own shelf no other box is shuffled when any one game is pulled from the shelf.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XTDpy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XTDpy.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many ways to make shelves.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;A basic shelf made of 2x4s with plywood shelving&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0eIgl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0eIgl.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This design in 2x4s is stronger than it needs to be to hold games.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Based on your initial drawing it seems like you are comfortable working with 2x4s.  You'd size this to your specifications.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The design as drawn gives you four shelves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Delete the middle two shelves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add a solid plywood back for horizontal support&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One more vertical support on the middle front. At 33.5 inches wide one vertical support 2x4 in the middle.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;you could use metal shelf tracks (shelf standard) and metal shelf supports (Pilaster clips).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shelf standards would be installed at each of the four corners. You could go with one shelf standard in the middle front and one in the middle back as a support for a continuous shelf.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Or you could go with two shelf standards in the middle front and two in the middle back to give you two independent stacks of shelving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could use wood or wire shelving that would offer flexibility similar to the Boxthrone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jjhR5.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jjhR5.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Often the self standard sits in a groove in the wood so that it's flush with the wood surface. That's a great way to go but it is simpler to mount the self standard on the surface of the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I wish I had some drawing tools to make all this clearer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6222" LastActivityDate="2022-06-17T15:35:04.673" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13882" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-17T16:55:50.837" Score="4" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a lofted bedframe design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently, I'm planning on creating the main frame using some wide boards (10&amp;quot;-12&amp;quot;) joined with cross laps, leaving some overhang (from which I can later hang a facade)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fWcBT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fWcBT.png&quot; alt=&quot;Wide boards with cross lap&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on affixing posts (4x4s or the like) to the corners of the resulting rectangular frame either on the outside corner of the joined boards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jjDjt.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jjDjt.png&quot; alt=&quot;exterior corner post&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or on the inside:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yd0t9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yd0t9.png&quot; alt=&quot;interior corner post&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any functional difference between these two options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12190" LastActivityDate="2022-06-17T17:58:13.473" Title="Posts on inside vs posts on outside of corner -- is there a difference in strength?" Tags="|strength|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13882" CreationDate="2022-06-17T17:58:13.473" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a 4x4 post, at moderate lengths, you will not even come close to the structural failure points for this sort of project.  As a test, put a 4x4 of the length you are using horizontally supported only at the ends.  Stand in the middle and bounce.  This is the worst case scenario.  The more vertical you get, the harder it will be to cause failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the top end, a short 4x4 post, fixed at both ends with load applied to the center can support over 9 tons. As the post gets longer and the load less centered, the capacity goes down.  In either of your choices, the through bolts will distribute the load across the width of the post, and the side boards will decrease the unsupported length, both of which will increase the strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important part either way is to make sure the connections are tight to essentially make the entire frame a single structure that so that adjoining sides can help reduce wracking.  Beds have to withstand dynamic as well as static loads.  The post is more than strong enough to handle the weight as long as the rest of the bed is well enough constructed to handle movement in other directions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a good video on post strength recently posted on youtube by The Engineering Hub called &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hk6BQDPw924&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How much load can a timber post actually carry&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2022-06-17T17:58:13.473" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13885" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13893" CreationDate="2022-06-19T15:50:05.387" Score="6" ViewCount="310" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built some basic picnic table benches five or so years ago, using what I thought were the proper components - outdoor weather-resistant paint and premium deck screws.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OilPa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OilPa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image of loosened screw&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I'm surprised at the extent to which the screws have come unscrewed since the bench was built. It has, to be fair, been outside the entire time, through hot summers and very snowy winters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main question is, &lt;strong&gt;what could I have done to prevent this&lt;/strong&gt;? My subquestions are, how does this worrying-loose happen, mechanically; and are there other components or techniques that guard against this phenomenon?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any help you can give,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AKA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: I initially thought this was made from pressure-treated wood, but it wasn't - it was just the highest-grade 2x4s available from the big box store, sealed and painted with outdoor paint&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="292" LastEditorUserId="292" LastEditDate="2022-06-19T20:04:29.237" LastActivityDate="2022-06-20T22:43:04.530" Title="What caused these screws to loosen so much (and how to prevent it)?" Tags="|screws|outdoor|fasteners|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13886" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13888" CreationDate="2022-06-19T19:12:50.140" Score="1" ViewCount="185" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a woodworking novice with the goal of putting together a simple convertible sofa / bed. My goals are to keep it simple and affordable to build. I'm planning to buy a couple sheets of plywood and have the lumber yard cut them and then hopefully put it together with just a drill. I made a design in SketchUp and am trying to use the Sagulator to understand what thickness/type of wood I need to use to make sure it has acceptable sag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am mostly looking for a gut check on whether I am using the Sagulator correctly, particularly the load inputs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sofa and bed will be used by two people 180 lbs and 120 lbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For sofa mode (2&amp;quot; thick) I used the following values and got acceptable sag:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;180 lbs / foot center load - i assume a person sitting is maybe 1.5-2 feet wide, so 180lbs per foot should be plenty?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;350 lbs / foot uniform load - seems more than enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For bed mode (1&amp;quot; thick) I used:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;100 lbs / foot uniform load - again guessing based on how a person weight is distributed when laying down&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Am I estimating the load correctly? Is there a rule-of-thumb lbs/ft to use for a sofa / bed, e.g. I guess when a furniture designer designs a piece for sale, there must be some typical standard load rating? I searched for this but couldn't find anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The design is very simple, two boxes each missing 2 faces. Stack them for sofa, set them side by side for bed. This means the thickness of the span in bed mode is 1&amp;quot; and in sofa mode it is 2&amp;quot; (2x 1&amp;quot;). I therefore assumed I can input 2&amp;quot; in the Sagulator, but not sure if that is the case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I am still researching how to attach the &amp;quot;legs&amp;quot; to the &amp;quot;shelf&amp;quot;. I was thinking to use pocket holes and some bolts of some kind. I'm most curious about the sag, but would also appreciate any advice on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Picture of the &amp;quot;design&amp;quot;:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZJ9lj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZJ9lj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;design&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sagulator &amp;quot;sofa mode&amp;quot; - person sitting in center:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AvkIR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AvkIR.png&quot; alt=&quot;sagulator sofa mode person sitting in center&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sagulator &amp;quot;sofa mode&amp;quot; - people sitting distributed evenly:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RHeqX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RHeqX.png&quot; alt=&quot;sagulator sofa mode people sitting distributed evenly&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sagulator &amp;quot;bed mode&amp;quot;:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lE4lQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lE4lQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;sagulator bed mode&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dimensions:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;83x32x10 inches is the bounding volume for each box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12200" LastEditorUserId="12200" LastEditDate="2022-06-19T19:19:25.430" LastActivityDate="2022-06-21T17:03:36.713" Title="How to use Sagulator for Sofa / Bed?" Tags="|furniture|design|plywood|weight-capacity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13887" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13892" CreationDate="2022-06-20T00:18:18.740" Score="0" ViewCount="197" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not sure how familiar people are with a Hangiri - the Japanese bowl for mixing and seasoning rice. It looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rGof8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rGof8.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like a barrel and it has some copper rings for keeping the sides under pressure/together. I have a lot of wood that I can use for something like this and it looks like a challenge, but I was wondering how does one keep the wood together for something like this? Most of the adhesives have VOCs in them and although some adhesives are FDA food-grade, I am pretty sure that the old Japanese were not using any of these. Besides, even if there is a Food Grade adhesive, I find it weird and disgusting to keep wet rice to cool down in an adhesive-based wood composite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is... assuming that there is no FDA food-grade adhesive/glue how else can one keep the pieces of wood together in such a bowl? Or maybe, a better question... Is it possible to have the wood stuck together for such a bowl without using any adhesive or with any wood-based glue (e.g. with wood aroma or sap aromas)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8663" LastEditorUserId="10942" LastEditDate="2022-06-20T08:08:45.747" LastActivityDate="2022-06-20T18:11:19.460" Title="How do they join wood in a Japanese Hangiri/Bowl?" Tags="|glue|assembly|gluing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13886" CreationDate="2022-06-20T13:00:28.477" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The weak point is the front, in the middle of the sofa (and correspondingly, the middle of the bed on the seam). You could fix the sofa with lumber on edge underneath the ply, but that doesn’t fix the other half of the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could put hinges on the assembly, which would let the weak point share the support of the lumber on edge, or you could make the lumber stick out half its width so that the weak half rests on it. (Neither of these seem like good solutions to me.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately, you could build torsion boxes out of something like 1/2” ply and 2x2s. You’d need to either find a resource that acts like the sagulator to test deflection, or just build one half as an experiment. My intuition is that it would be plenty stiff, but I have no data to back that up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowing that you want a fairly modern look, I’d try this torsion box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0YYTy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0YYTy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;torsion box&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a stiff hardwood (ash would be good; poplar not so much) for the front and interior supports. Glue and screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a backup plan to add the optional support to the front of the sofa if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And per the excellent idea of Graphus, stick a block underneath the other side to support bed mode without sagging or additional buildup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastEditorUserId="503" LastEditDate="2022-06-21T17:03:36.713" LastActivityDate="2022-06-21T17:03:36.713" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13887" CreationDate="2022-06-20T13:06:18.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The nice part of that arrangement is that you don't need glue to keep the bowl in shape and water tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's the copper rings under tension that keep the wooden slats tight together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same technique is used in the west for barrel. Shaped wooden staves kept together under tension using metal hoops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shape gets maintained because of the compound wedge shape of the staves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest the use of a jig to keep everything in place during assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2022-06-20T13:06:18.520" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13890" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-20T13:42:07.270" Score="3" ViewCount="249" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm essentially restoring a bathroom in a 1920s house and I'm trying to be as true to the original woodwork as I can (as a novice).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using my dad's old router for the first time ever and so far it's been going OK (not perfect, but OK).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One edge that I haven't been able to figure out is the edge of the window sill. It's got sort of an &amp;quot;S&amp;quot; shape (if you cut off the bottom third and the top right downward curve).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The convex portion of the curve at the top goes 180° around and is definitely a 1/4&amp;quot; radius curve and I think maybe that the concave lower portion is perhaps a 1/2&amp;quot; radius curve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went to Home Depot and lowes to try and find a bit (or bits) that I could use to do this. The closest thing I found was a 1/4&amp;quot; radius Roman bit that could do the bottom of the sill (though the radius isn't right for that) and I thought maybe I could find a 1/2&amp;quot; radius one, but when I thought about it, I realized that in doing the top 1/4&amp;quot; curve (if I've already done the bottom curve), there would be nothing for the bearing to guide the second cut. I'd have the reverse issue if I did the top curve first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how do I do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sPxCX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sPxCX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XUNdr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XUNdr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dp5tj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dp5tj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone suggested that I mount the router underneath a plywood table. However, I do not immediately see a way to mount it. There are screws underneath the rods that I &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; use, but they are metal screws, not wood screws. Could I use the holes on the guide attached to the rods to screw it into the side of a table?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YgVP0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YgVP0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11184" LastEditorUserId="11184" LastEditDate="2022-06-22T22:58:39.137" LastActivityDate="2022-06-22T22:58:39.137" Title="How do I achieve this edge with a router?" Tags="|router|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="17" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13890" CreationDate="2022-06-20T14:27:59.753" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I might try an Ogee bit with a board upside down and then use a 1/4 radius after that 'on the top'.  Should be able to get this pretty close with the right Ogee bit, probably a bigger one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure I've seen single bits close to that, I have this finger pull door pull that is 'close' but a bit more aggressive on the 'bottom'.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/shopping/product/13986480099114392013?q=router+bits+door+pull+freud&amp;amp;prds=eto:13639532660545370309_0,pid:9685896006746805321,rsk:PC_10815388883686490806&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.google.com/shopping/product/13986480099114392013?q=router+bits+door+pull+freud&amp;amp;prds=eto:13639532660545370309_0,pid:9685896006746805321,rsk:PC_10815388883686490806&lt;/a&gt;.  I'll keep looking to see if I can find another.  The finger pull might be pushing a full 1&amp;quot; board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2022-06-20T14:27:59.753" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13887" CreationDate="2022-06-20T18:11:19.460" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to have the wood stuck together for such a bowl without using any adhesive&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do it right, yes. This is the foundation of much traditional bucket and barrel making all over the world, the idea being that by shaping the staves with the required angled edges and then squeezing them together from the outside with binding of some sort&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; the staves are forced to remain together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, while it's theoretically possible to make a &lt;em&gt;hangiri&lt;/em&gt; without any adhesive some glue &lt;strong&gt;is&lt;/strong&gt; used in their construction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are actually numerous videos on YouTube showing similar storage containers being made by Japanese crafstmen. For &lt;em&gt;hangiri&lt;/em&gt; specifically the best of the ones I've watched is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jBkMEXS_5QE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; on the Woodworking Enthusiasts channel. In addition to what many similar videos show, various aspects of the build and finish-shaping processes, it also gives some key details of wood selection which others seem to skip over (unless this is in the Japanese commentary). Watch your knuckles planing the edges of the staves like this! :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since all the toxicity related stuff is really secondary to what you're asking about I'll cover it separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the adhesives have VOCs in them&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everyone's level of worry about toxicity is their own, but it should be based on a realistic assessment of the risk. This should be especially the case for those living in the US, where sheet goods are used so heavily in both commercial and residential construction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for a product like this, first remember the ancient adage, &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;the dose determines the poison&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;. This isn't just a snappy saying&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here, if you did use a modern glue, how much is actually present when you're done? Well a good invisibly thin glue line is a thousandth of an inch at most..... I'll leave you to do the math on what the contact area actually is&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; o_O&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find it weird and disgusting to keep wet rice to cool down in an adhesive-based wood composite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you similarly find it weird or disgusting to cut food on an &amp;quot;adhesive-based wood composite&amp;quot; or are all your cutting boards single boards? Or solid plastic or resin? It's worth pointing out that all boards made from solid plastic or resin, or faced with melamine (which seems to cover 99% of boards that aren't wood from what I've seen) each contain their own set of VOCs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;any wood-based glue (e.g. with wood aroma or sap aromas)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI such an adhesive would contain its own VOCs! They may be natural, but that doesn't at all make them harmless. Perhaps the most famous wood-derived extract is turpentine, which despite being natural is &lt;em&gt;more toxic than most mineral spirits&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; It doesn't have to be copper strips as in the originals if you find it difficult to source or too costly, you could use wooden strips in a similar manner to the way that Shaker boxes are constructed. Stainless steel wire seems like it would also be a viable alternative without any worries about corrosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; A good example of the principle is that apple seeds actually contain a deadly toxin — you think that's almond you're tasting? ;-) — but despite this it's still perfectly safe to eat the core of an apple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; A useful, and quite direct, comparison is we (most people) don't generally worry about food, hot or cold, in contact with the glue joints in the vast majority of wooden cutting boards, whether commercially produced or homemade, made for the past 50+ years.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-06-20T18:11:19.460" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13885" CreationDate="2022-06-20T22:43:04.530" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fact that the table was made from untreated, big box store 2X stock pretty much answers your question.   That wood is almost certainly what is known in the trade as SPF (meaning, spruce, pine or fir, but probably not fir), and untreated, it has very little rot resistance.   Left outside, water got under the planking, kept the structural 2X underneath continuously damp, and voila, it was too unsound in a few years to hold the screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what could you have done to prevent this: First, use treated lumber, or, if you want to spend the money, a rot resistant species like cypress, white oak or redwood.   Second, construct and position the table so that water is unlikely to be able settle between boards, and will run off all horizontal surfaces.   Treated lumber will generally not tolerate  continuous moisture exposure, unless it is rated for ground contact.   Even then, it'll last better if it doesn't stay wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Deck screws (assuming they were long enough) are ok for this application if the table is going to stay put. Personally, though, when I've built outdoor tables, I've used galvanized 5/16&amp;quot; carriage bolts, bolted through the structural members.   People like to pick picnic tables up by the table planks and otherwise put loads on the fastenings that deck screws aren't designed to handle.   Through bolts with larger heads take the abuse better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One possible approach to consider is to get a steel kit for the support structure of the table, and use wood for the seats and table top only.    Typically these are made of tube steel, and require using through bolts.   Solves the moisture entrapment problem.   They are also lighter than wooden support frames.   I just replaced the seat and table boards on a table I built with tubular steel supports 41 years ago.  The boards were Douglass Fir, so fairly rot resistant, and we kept them sealed for the most part, but they were outside continuously for those 4 decades, and most of the wood was still usably sound, although definitely close to end of usable life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11864" LastActivityDate="2022-06-20T22:43:04.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13894" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-21T19:02:31.937" Score="0" ViewCount="1096" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend gave me a bunch of really old lumber (the late 1800s, early 1900s) and they have a bunch of old handmade nails in them which I tried pulling out but half of them broke off in the wood. I would love to use this lumber but I don't want to ruin my blades in the jointer/planer or trigger the SawStop so is there a way I can safely mill these boards or should I scrap them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5018" LastActivityDate="2022-06-24T06:12:10.930" Title="How to safely cut old lumber with old nails in it?" Tags="|lumber|milling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13894" CreationDate="2022-06-21T23:04:26.960" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer for this: no, there is no way using ordinary wood shop equipment to safely mill wood with embedded iron in it.   Jointer, planer, and bandsaw blades will be ruined by even small amounts of iron.   Carbide table saw blades will survive some cutting of steel or iron, but will be dulled significantly, and may experience damage.    Iron also may trigger your SawStop if it's a big enough fragment, if you don't disable the mechanism for each and every cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a relatively small number of nails to deal with, I would remove the remaining bits of iron by coring the nails with a small bore carbide or bimetal hole saw, then plug the resulting holes with cores cut from near the end of the timber (to minimize shortening of the resulting boards), then mill it.   If there are very many, I wouldn't bother.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11864" LastEditorUserId="11864" LastEditDate="2022-06-23T12:44:34.650" LastActivityDate="2022-06-23T12:44:34.650" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13890" CreationDate="2022-06-22T06:48:31.023" Score="3" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create accurate profile of edge using gauge or playing cards held by rubber band.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hJ4cn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hJ4cn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw profile on both ends of short test board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove most excess wood on table saw, &lt;strong&gt;stay outside lines&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Round off top edge with plane or by sanding, start with 60 or 80.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make scratch stock from scraps of hardwood.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw bottom of profile on steel with Sharpie, file to shape, hone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scrape bottom curve using scratch stock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After checking new work matches old:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut new sill board slightly long.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat all steps on new sill.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Complete by sanding profile to same grit as used on top surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trim both ends.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drink to celebrate spending $0?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.finewoodworking.com/membership/pdf/86729/011254067.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Make Your Own Scratch Stocks&lt;/a&gt; by Garrett Hack&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodandshop.com/make-use-scratch-stock-woodworking-david-ray-pine/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Make &amp;amp; Use a Scratch Stock for Woodworking&lt;/a&gt; by Joshua Farnsworth&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://pfollansbee.wordpress.com/tag/scratch-stock/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Posts tagged 'scratch stock'&lt;/a&gt; by Peter Follansbee&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastActivityDate="2022-06-22T06:48:31.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13897" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-22T15:52:05.447" Score="1" ViewCount="278" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today I resawed a piece of wood and ripped another board using a handsaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In contrast to ripping or crosscutting, resawing is very difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the reason for that? Is it just the volume of wood fibres to cut through that make it a slow and difficult process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12252" LastActivityDate="2022-06-22T21:58:17.743" Title="Why is resawing by hand so difficult compared to ripping/crosscutting?" Tags="|resawing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13897" CreationDate="2022-06-22T21:58:17.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it just the volume of wood fibres to cut through that make it a slow and difficult process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be this in a nutshell, yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically resawing is going through a greater thickness of wood, and sometimes a much greater thickness of wood, because you're sawing &lt;em&gt;across the width of a board&lt;/em&gt; and not through the &lt;em&gt;thickness&lt;/em&gt;. You're removing A LOT more wood with each push and/or pull in this scenario, so even using a rip saw&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; the increased effort, and to some degree the drag on the saw, is proportionally higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything depends on the piece of wood you're cutting. Realize that sawing along the length of anything of square section, from a 1x1 to a 6x6, ripping and resawing are basically the same cut, even if when resawing you might be trying to make thinner pieces than in a 'standard' rip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Practice as much as possible. The only way to get good at sawing is to do it more, as concentrated practice early on or my doing it again at every available opportunity. Or, ideally, both. In addition to working the actual muscles used you'll develop what is now almost universally called the muscle memory.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This should possibly have been point #1, but I &lt;em&gt;had&lt;/em&gt; to put practice first ^_^ Try as much as possible to be selective about the wood you aim to resaw. Straight boards are very very preferable here! You may also find that air-dried wood is noticeably better than kiln-dried, but by no means should you avoid trying to resaw kilned wood entirely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure your stance is good and you're not getting in the way of the cut. With a Western rip saw you want your sawing arm to be working like a piston and your torso needs to be off to the side for this to work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The thicker the wood (i.e. the wider the board) the larger you want the saw's teeth to be. Very much preferable to use a sub-6TPI saw here if possible, although like most of us you may routinely be doing this with a less-than-ideal saw. It'll still get the job done.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Let the saw do the work&lt;/em&gt;. There's a tendency with male woodworkers especially to try to brute-force sawcuts, either by pushing down or sawing really fast or perhaps both. Either tends to be counter-productive in the long run — you'll tend to tire yourself out prematurely, and the straightness of the cut will usually suffer if you don't take your time. Remember, like in so many things in hand-tool woodworking: it's not a race.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lubricate your saw, and lubricate it well. While a scribble of candle wax is certainly an improvement over a saw with no lubrication on it at all, you can do better than that and for resawing you'll notice the difference&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. Remember to do both sides!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Re-lubricate at frequent intervals; as and when needed basically. If you're using oil or wax the lubricant is obviously wearing off the surface continually (more quickly with the oil naturally). Fight the tendency to be lazy about interrupting the sawing to re-lube the saw plate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're not already doing so, make sure the wood is very firmly held in a vice or by whatever arrangement you're using in place of a formal vice. If the board is able to shift about during the cut you'll have a terrible time of it; you could injure yourself or your saw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You'll often saw from both ends towards the centre, not straight down through from one end. The longer the board the more this is necessary.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't saw too high, or too far away from the clamping force. The greater the distance from the pinch point the more the wood is able to vibrate, which in addition to sometimes sounding awful steals energy from every saw thrust. Best practice is to reposition the board multiple times for each half of the cut so you're always sawing in a sort of sweet spot or Goldilocks zone.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once the cut has progressed past a certain depth it might be helpful to insert a wedge into the open end of the cut, depending on how the wood is behaving. Sometimes (&lt;em&gt;often&lt;/em&gt; IME haha) the cut will pinch closed behind the saw rather than warping the other way and opening up slightly&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last but not least:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not a must-do by any means, but consider making a kerfing plane or similar tool that establishes a significant groove on all four edges of the board for the saw cut to follow. This can greatly aid getting a straighter cut for those with less sawing under their belts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you find you want to do this more, and especially if you want to produce thinner pieces or even veneers, make or buy a European frame saw as advocated by Tage Frid. Or get a suitable bandsaw, naturally!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; You might be magnifying the effort by a factor or two or more if not using a rip saw, although some modern 'hybrid' or 'multi-purpose' teeth can admittedly rip surprisingly well (and are often far easier to get!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; So either do a much more concentrated scribbling action with your candle/lump of wax, or wipe a good film of paste wax over the whole surface (note that unlike in wax polishing there's no need to wait for the wax to haze over before continuing). If instead of wax you prefer to oil your saws, again, aim more for a full film than a casual zigzag in the middle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Pay attention to this behaviour irrespective of which way it's going. If a board opens up widely or pinches very firmly on the saw early in the cut it may not be worth continuing because your formerly fairly straight board may well become two thinner wooden bananas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-06-22T21:58:17.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13894" CreationDate="2022-06-22T22:29:45.273" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before you start, rather than just winging it as many do when faced with the prospect of using reclaimed wood (I'm very much including pallet wood here for some of the direct parallels) it might be worth consciously looking at it this way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;potential value of wood &lt;strong&gt;to you&lt;/strong&gt; / (the cost of your time + cost of 1-2 useful tools)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everyone will do this calculation differently. If you're an amateur you might value your time at zero as many/most amateurs do, in which case it becomes only a matter of how much effort you're willing put into the boring preparatory stages, along with the cost of any of a few tools you might need to make this wood safe to process in your normal manner (but see bottom for an alternative).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New Yankee Workshop used reclaimed wood numerous times so that might be something to go hunting for to see someone working start to finish with wood that might be quite similar to what you have there. Sorry I can't give you even a starting point for the search like project titles, or even which seasons to look in, because in writing this I realise it's been 20 years since I watched NYW!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Norm shows quite well (better in later episodes IIRC) you start by meticulously de-nailing the boards before any further processing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Find the metal, remove it&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Using a metal detector is considered a must here, so that's an expense to factor in. Be methodical. &lt;em&gt;Do both sides.&lt;/em&gt; Mark each location with pen, chalk, or carpenter's pencil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not be guided purely by the staining you might see, or obvious holes; although of course they are a useful starting point chunks of iron can be surprisingly well hidden on old, especially weathered, wood. I've missed a few on boards that were merely rough-sawn and a bit dingy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might read you can use a stud finder for the metal hunt but, eh, not really. Ditto a strong magnet. Both are capable of finding &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; of the metal in wood for sure, on thinner boards especially for obvious reasons. But they both lack the sensitivity you want for thicker material and to reliably find smaller chunks, like just the tip of a nail that gets left behind after pulling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried pulling out but half of them broke off in the wood&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be possible to successfully pull/prise out the pieces that remain e.g. by drilling to either side and then using needle-nosed pliers. This can take far longer than you expect, and it means leaving a much bigger gouge in the wood than you were hoping for. But remember you can always use tinted epoxy or a Dutchman for defects like this, and either can add an attractive touch to something obviously made from old wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you aren't willing to just rip cut out entire nail lines, and/or trim off the ends where the nails mostly lie, the only alternative to prying out is some type of coring tool or plug cutter which will leave a more uniform hole that you might or might not prefer (note that the larger the holes are the harder it is to plug with face-grain wood, so you might prefer to convert the round holes to any of the more traditional Dutchman shapes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you've worked your way along a board from one end to the other, ticking off every marked location, &lt;em&gt;check the wood again with the metal detector&lt;/em&gt;. Dollars to doughnuts you'll find at least one piece that got overlooked or left behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be impossible to miss any piece of metal worth noting if you check a second time but.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What if I do miss a piece?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Assuming you don't go a different route on initial breakdown the first major power tool to see the wood will be your table saw. Since you're using a modern saw I think it's safe to assume your blade is carbide-tipped :-) and as I mention in the Comment above, carbide-toothed TS blades &lt;strong&gt;are&lt;/strong&gt; capable of cutting though staples, brads and even the occasional nail without harm&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. And just to be clear, by without harm I don't mean no &lt;em&gt;apparent&lt;/em&gt; damage I mean no damage at all that anyone can notice; you'll confirm this for yourself during your due diligence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This shouldn't be that surprising since mild steel and wrought iron are relatively soft, and carbide is hard&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the flesh-sensing technology on the SawStop adds a further complication because sawing though a bit of metal can &lt;em&gt;on occasion&lt;/em&gt; trigger it, which means new brake &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; new blade, obviously something you want to completely avoid. You can turn the saw into a dumb saw, as an owner you'll know Bypass Mode is specifically provided for this purpose as and when needed, and some users make use of it on a regular basis. So this isn't at all an unreasonable option, but it's up to you if that's something you would be comfortable doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you get done with the saw cuts the wood should be as safe as you could hope for, and suitable for running over a jointer or thickness planing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alternative approach&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Do the processing by hand, exclusively or mostly with hand tools. So, starting with rip and crosscut panel saws, possibly a hatchet (for wasting edges and splitting off), and a scrub plane or other roughing plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the pace of work, and the nature of the tools themselves, it can be almost risk-free to process wood with nails in it manually; I have planed down to staples, brads/nails, and even a hard modern screw once or twice, without ever doing unrecoverable damage to the plane&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;, although admittedly others have had different experiences including chipping the rear of the mouth opening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose the primary power tool you could use to help with this process is a jigsaw&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt;. And at worst you'll trash a jigsaw blade or two, not an unreasonable expense for what you're getting at the end of the day (even if this is 'only' softwood).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Do your due diligence here. Because of how relevant it is to your situation the video I referred to above in the Comments would make a great starting point; the original title was different but it's now &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HEv0fNBsyUc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;What did a tiny nail do to my $10K table saw?&lt;/a&gt; As you might expect there's quite a bit on the forums related to this topic, and probably much more on YouTube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; But not necessarily as brittle as you might have been led to believe. This is one area where you can expect to notice the quality of your blade's carbide, &lt;em&gt;since tungsten carbide is by no means a single, uniform, entity as so often implied&lt;/em&gt; (just like HSS isn't, as you might already know if you have a lathe and have tried various makes of turning tools). This is one of the genuine reasons for some saw blades costing a lot more than others, rather than it just being a name premium or the maker recouping their fat advertising budget :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Other than one deep scratch to the sole (which doesn't affect function in any way) the worst I've had to deal with is a minor nick in an iron and a worse, but still superficial, gouge to the leading edge of a cap iron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt; I suppose you could use a reciprocating saw for this, as they're used for demo work their blades are most definitely up to the task (I doubt you'd even notice sawing through these nails as far as increased resistance goes) but this type of saw may be too uncontrollable for what you need here. A jigsaw is slower, safer and has much greater potential future utility to the average woodworker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-06-22T22:29:45.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13894" CreationDate="2022-06-24T06:12:10.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, evaluate the boards and figure out how you want to use them. If they're old and they have a lot of hand cut nails, maybe it'd be nicer to leave them in their current state as much as possible to preserve their character. That'd save you some work, and you might end up with a project that's one of a kind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do decide to mill the boards, you need to get rid of the nails. There are a lot of good tools for that out there, and you may need more than one. A &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00002N7SD&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Crescent Nail Puller&lt;/a&gt; is a great tool for something like this -- the harder you pull on it, the tighter it holds the nail. A flat pry bar and a &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B089SQ6BHM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cat's paw&lt;/a&gt; might also be handy. As others have suggested, a wand-style metal detector can pay for itself in the cost of replacement blades in just one or two uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't think you can get the nails out, sometimes you can push them farther in. For example, if you've broken the head off a nail, you may not be able to get a hold on it to pull it out. You can try to excavate around it, but at some point you're just going to make a mess of the board. Instead, insert a small punch in the hole and use a hammer to drive the nail a little further into the wood, so you can safely surface the wood without hitting the nail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you just want to surface the wood but don't need it absolutely flat, a belt sander is a good option. Even if you hit a nail, the sander will probably just sand it down along with the rest of the board. Worst case, you might have to change the belt, which isn't a big deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbide-tipped table saw blades will cut right through most nails and screws, and hand cut nails are probably softer than today's steel nails. Even so, you don't want to subject your best blade to nails, so buy a cheap blade for this project. I bought a rip blade at Home Depot recently for about $16. I think the brand is &amp;quot;Avanti,&amp;quot; and it actually works pretty well. The teeth aren't exactly beefy, and I doubt it'll stay sharp for as long as a better blade would, but it's probably perfect for the kind of boards you've got.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to use your SawStop and want to avoid tripping the brake, just put the saw in bypass mode. Check your manual for instructions, but it's basically just a matter of turning the key as you start the saw. Just remember that the brake WILL NOT FIRE when the saw is in bypass mode, so use the blade guard and an extra dose of caution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-06-24T06:12:10.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13902" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-26T00:00:00.153" Score="5" ViewCount="255" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seeking advice for the repair of two identical (mirror image) trim pieces from the base of Pella casement windows. Each piece is cracked through its thinnest portion, which is only about 1/4&amp;quot; thick or less. I'm concerned that gluing and clamping will not be sufficient for a lasting, durable fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S0dlQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S0dlQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DFGpx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DFGpx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cOwEH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cOwEH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xkeSu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xkeSu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are specialized pieces that are nearly 30 years old and not made anymore, with intricate cutouts and machined sections and so are effectively irreplaceable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past I've fixed stuff like this by drilling a small hole and gluing in a dowel to join the two pieces (as well as gluing the broken seam). In this case that would require extremely precise drilling through thin, irregular sections and the dowel could barely be more than toothpick-sized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some kind of fiberglass tape I can glue or epoxy to the non-visible underside of the seam? Open to other ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Complicating matters is that the inner workings of the casement window mechanism tend to push out on the inside of these wooden pieces in such a way that almost certainly led to their failure over time. Also one of the pieces looks to be water damaged, and could be more brittle as a result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These trim pieces were breaking or broken when we bought the house about a year ago (along with the crank mechanisms, which have been fixed) -- we're not going to replace the windows and we can't find new trim pieces, so we're going to have to do our best to patch them up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice from the community would be most welcome! Also happy to provide more info as will be helpful in suggesting an approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12261" LastActivityDate="2022-07-02T01:44:13.240" Title="Advice for repairing thin fragile, irreplaceable Pella window trim pieces" Tags="|wood-repair|trim|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13903" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13904" CreationDate="2022-06-26T06:00:23.983" Score="2" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a bottle carrying basket similar to the one in the photo but with a wooden handle and also a higher arc for the handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rgXF2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rgXF2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The handle is to be an arc with an inner diameter of approx 30 cm (11-12&amp;quot;) with a thickness of approx 1 cm (3/8&amp;quot;) and a width of approx 4 cm (1 1/2&amp;quot;) My idea for making the handle would be to steam it and bend it into shape on a premade jig. I was thinking about making it from two pieces, each approx 0.5 cm thick (3/16&amp;quot;), shape the first one and then glue on the second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never before been steaming wood and when thinking about this, I realized that the pieces will be pretty wet, so I will have to let them dry before glueing. So my plan at the moment is to fasten the first one to the jig, then prepare the outer one, fasten it on the first, let it cool down, then take it apart and let them dry for a while before I glue them together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this sound like a reasonable plan? Does anybody have an estimate of how long I would have to let them dry before I should glue? The basket in general is made of maple, I can use maple for the handle as well, but I also do have some cherry, ash, spruce and even some juniper available for the handle. I know I could maybe make it in one single piece as well, but at the moment it feels like a better solution to make it out of two thinner pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @Graphus commented, the ergonomics may not be good, my plan has been to make straight dummy to try to feel which dimensions makes sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not yet have a steam box, but I think that may be useful for some other projects as well, as a home brewer, I have quite a few of the necessary parts...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also been thinking about making a laminated handle from some strips so thin they can be bent without steaming, but with the machinery I have available, it is difficult to make things thinner than approx 5mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-06-27T15:42:29.057" LastActivityDate="2022-07-01T18:06:19.377" Title="Steaming and laminating for basket/carrier handle" Tags="|laminating|steam-bending|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13903" CreationDate="2022-06-26T19:02:16.797" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your plan is reasonable.   I have made many components for baskets by steam bending relatively thin slats, then glue laminating them together to get thicker, curved and very stiff pieces.   I would offer some suggestions for how to get to success (and will answer your question about drying along the way).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, selection of your wood is important.   You want strips with no grain runout at all if possible, so you want to cut the strips from quarter or rift sawn lumber, or from the straight grained edge of a wider flat sawn piece.   I would go with three 1/8&amp;quot; strips, rather than two 3/16&amp;quot; for your work.   Air dried is better than kiln dried, but as you probably can't get any, with strips as thin a 1/8&amp;quot;, kiln-dried will be fine.  1/8&amp;quot; strips will be easier to work with, and having two glued surfaces in the laminate will actually make a structurally sounder and stiffer final handle.   If you want a 1 1/2&amp;quot; handle, as you suggest, make 2&amp;quot; strips.   But structurally, a 3/4&amp;quot; or 1&amp;quot; handle would be just as good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make yourself a form over which to bend the strips.  In your case, that will be a 2&amp;quot; wide form that fits within the inside curve of the handle.   You'll want to make sure you build the form so that you can clamp the strips to the form all along the length of the handle (and yes, you'll need quite a few clamps - for cuves like this, a clamp every 3&amp;quot; is not excessive).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With 1/8&amp;quot; strips, the steaming can be done in a number of ways.   You can steam the strips in a steam chest (or a plastic bag) with steam from an electric steam generator, or a self made generator (saucepan with lid, hose, and some silicon tape), and when the wood is pliable, clamp it to the form.   Or you can just clamp  a strip to the center of the form, direct steam at the thin strip and slowly bend it around the form, steaming and clamping as you go until you reach one end, then do the other side the same way.   I've used this technique many times for one-off laminates with tight radii.   You do want good gloves and to take real care around the live steam, though.   Live steam will cook your fingers very quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've got a strip steamed, bent around the form, and clamped, leave it for at minimum several hours.   When you remove it, it'll spring back some, but that's not a problem.    Tie the ends together with a long strip of tape or something, and let it dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can bend all three strips on the same form in separate operations, or bend and clamp them all at once.   Either way works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would let the strips dry for a day before gluing.   More won't hurt, but won't really help either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the glue up, you want to coat both sides of the glue line with glue (I use waterproof PVA glue like Titebond 3 for these, but anything that gives a reasonably hard glue joint and has good open time will work; Epoxy has the advantage of a long open time, but can be very slippery and messy to work with, whereas a thin, but complete coat of PVA glue tacks the strips together making clamping easier.   But, if you prefer it, epoxy is structurally a good choice).  Make yourself a fourth strip and cover one side of it with plastic packing tape, to use as a caul and clamp pad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For assembly, put the glued strips on the form with the clamp pad on top, and start clamping at the center (top of handle), working both ways to the ends.   As I say, you'll want clamps every 2 or 3&amp;quot; along the form, with short block cauls where there are reasonably flat stretches on the handle profile.   Your biggest challenge is getting the glue joint tight (thin glue line) as you go around the curves.   If you've got a strap clamp, one solution to this challenge is to use it to clamp the strips around the entire form (so you have a layer cake of form, 3 strips of glued wood, the taped caul, then the strap clamp).   Then use regular clamps right over the top of strap clamp to thoroughly seat the joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an alternative to the above, you could also cut yourself even thinner strips, and skip the steaming - just glue laminate them.   You might get by with that with 1/8&amp;quot; strips too, but the radii you're after are probably at the margins of what you can get in a 1/8&amp;quot; strip with no prebend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11864" LastEditorUserId="11864" LastEditDate="2022-06-27T20:19:36.760" LastActivityDate="2022-06-27T20:19:36.760" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13905" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13944" CreationDate="2022-06-26T19:26:13.397" Score="1" ViewCount="164" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/q/13805/32&quot;&gt;making a desk&lt;/a&gt; for my son using hard &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wood-database.com/birdseye-maple/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;birdseye maple&lt;/a&gt; as the material for the top. I've never worked with birdseye specifically before, but I've used hard maple in other projects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top is 32&amp;quot; x 54&amp;quot;. I glued it up using 3/4&amp;quot; S3S boards sized using a ripping blade for my table saw and biscuits. It wasn't perfectly flat, but good enough, so I started in on sanding. I have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.makitatools.com/products/details/9403&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Makita 9403 4&amp;quot; x 24&amp;quot; handheld belt sander&lt;/a&gt;, and I sanded the top with new 80, 120, 150, and 240 grit belts. I sanded pretty much with the grain, but I rotated the sander a little as I was moving along as birdseye is flatsawn and can have quite a bit of wavy grain, depending on the piece. I put pencil lines across the piece between each grit as a way to verify that I was sanding it evenly and thoroughly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I was progressing through the grits, I noticed a little bit of waviness – ridges in the texture of the surface. They weren't sharp, like I'd left the sander running for too long in one spot and the edge of the belt had dug in, but fairly smooth, like a series of gentle hills and valleys. What was interesting was that they didn't necessarily follow features of the grain. For example, when sanding soft &amp;quot;SPF&amp;quot; woods like yellow pine, the darker growth rings are more dense than the lighter wood in between, and if you're not careful you can get ring texturing in the surface when sanding. My ridges are not like that – they follow the direction of the grain, but cross individual grain lines without changing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to rescue this if I can before I start the finishing process. Unfortunately, I don't have access to a wide belt sander (&lt;em&gt;if you know of any in the Boston, MA area, please let me know!&lt;/em&gt;), so I'll have to stick with what I have available, which is the Makita belt sander, a DeWalt 5&amp;quot; random orbit sander, a decent low-angle block plane, and a lousy knockoff bench plane. With such highly-figured wood, the thought of planing doesn't make me very happy, so I'll have to figure it out with sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would sanding against the grain with 240 and then with it again have any effect, or will it just create unnecessary scratches? What about cross-grain with a rougher grit, then smoothing again? I'd like to ultimately go up to 320 or 400, then perhaps (or instead) do a few passes with a good cabinet scraper to really &amp;quot;pop&amp;quot; the figure before finishing. Would the scraper &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/7944/32&quot;&gt;be the best option&lt;/a&gt; for flattening the top as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any and all suggestions are welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2022-06-27T16:30:46.003" LastActivityDate="2022-07-08T02:19:04.077" Title="How to eliminate waviness/ridges on 4&quot; belt-sanded desktop?" Tags="|sanding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13902" CreationDate="2022-06-27T13:26:28.573" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If gluing is your only reasonable choice (which is to say, you can't make replacement pieces yourself, and you don't care to spend the many dollars having them custom made would cost), then I would suggest that you build a jig to immobilize the pieces in their proper configuration.   Hardboard, double-sided tape, and masking tape should be sufficient to create such a jig.   Once you can immobilize them in a configuration that satisfies you, I'd tack them together with small areas glued using CA glue (superglue).   Finally, once they are secure, I'd remove enough of the fixture to have clear access to the joints from both sides, and finish the repair with a good epoxy that is thin enough to infiltrate the joint thoroughly.   You can dam one side of the joint using hot melt glue, or a putty, to make getting the epoxy to stay in the joint easier.  Note that you can clean the epoxy you will inevitably get all over the piece doing this once the epoxy is semi-set using alcohol or acetone (edited to change this from warm water).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We commonly use techniques like this in restoring old furniture pieces.   The key is in getting adequate strength in the initial immobilization, to be able to work the repair safely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11864" LastEditorUserId="11864" LastEditDate="2022-07-02T01:44:13.240" LastActivityDate="2022-07-02T01:44:13.240" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13908" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-27T18:36:36.113" Score="-2" ViewCount="263" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always wanted to make a bow (archery) the english long bow was a solid bow, not a laminate. Did anybody ever try to glue up a bow that worked afterwards?&#xA;If so How pls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12268" LastActivityDate="2022-06-29T08:51:11.877" Title="How to glue/ laminate a bow (archery)" Tags="|glue|laminating|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ClosedDate="2022-07-11T14:02:26.830" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13909" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-27T19:59:12.053" Score="2" ViewCount="3620" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you've looked at a woodworking magazine, watched anything wood-related on YouTube, or just browsed anything on the internet related to woodworking, you've probably come across &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.odiesoil.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Odie's Oil&lt;/a&gt;. It's advertised as a zero-VOC (Volatile Organic Compounds), solvent-free, toxic chemical-free, interior/exterior use, UV-inhibiting, food-safe finish and protectant that can be applied without gloves or respirators, works with a wide range of materials (not just wood), and smells nice, too. Because there are no solvents, (almost) nothing evaporates during curing, which means a little bit supposedly goes a very long way – they advertise coverage rates of ~190 sq. ft (~17.6 m&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;) per 9 oz./266 ml jar, up to 20 times greater than other (unnamed) finishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Application is supposed to be very easy, as well. The manufacturer recommends applying with a Scotch-Brite™ pad at a higher grit than the highest level of sanding (I've seen the white pad used frequently, as I believe it's the highest grit available) and rubbing it into the grain, leaving the surface wet. I've also seen it applied using a credit card or or similar applicator and just wiped onto the surface. It should be checked 40-60 minutes later and reapplied to spots where it has completely absorbed. It can be left for some indeterminate amount of time, measured in hours, then buffed off. I've heard you can use the same type of pad as was used to apply it, and I've also heard that you should use terry cloth. I assume buffing wheels or pads could also be used, as long as they don't become saturated. New/additional coats or repairs can be applied directly on top, without any stripping, sanding, or scratching required. One of the only downsides is that it takes 2-3 weeks before it's fully cured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it sounds like great stuff, and purportedly has been used for &amp;quot;decades&amp;quot; on hardwood floors. However, it's rather pricy – a 9 oz./266 ml jar currently costs about $45 (plus shipping) direct from the manufacturer in the US and £65.99 on Amazon in the UK. It also seems to be one of those products that inspires very strong opinions in people. I've read articles and watched videos where people swear by it, practically claiming it's the greatest thing since sliced bread, and showing it beating out all sorts of other finishes in various tests. However, I've also seen a lot of naysayers, questioning its price, durability, and composition – that it can be substituted by using cheaper components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My basic question is for people who've actually &lt;em&gt;used&lt;/em&gt; the stuff: is it all it's promoted to be? Is the coverage really as good as they say? What are the caveats for application? How durable is it long-term, and is it really waterproof (spills, not submersion)? Specifically for my initial intended project, a desk for a teenager, how does it look on highly-figured closed grain wood like birdseye maple, as opposed to a more traditional boiled linseed oil and polyurethane finish? And if you're not a big fan of it, what would you recommend in its place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2022-11-24T21:04:05.530" Title="Is Odie's Oil worth all the hype... and money?" Tags="|finishing|water-protection|oiling|physical-protection|wax|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ClosedDate="2022-11-25T15:03:51.340" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13909" CreationDate="2022-06-27T20:53:18.940" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not a full answer (as I have no personal experience), but more than a comment. Based on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://store-c2cfc.mybigcommerce.com/content/z%20SDS%2010-11-2021%20Odie%27s%20Oil%20%20%281%29.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;most recent SDS&lt;/a&gt;, this product appears to be a drying oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chemical family : Mixture of: Drying oil; Lubricating oil; Natural waxes; Essential oil&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that it cautions that application rags may spontaneously combust support this as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When this product is used, combustible materials such as some cleaning rags, cotton waste, etc., contaminated by the material are subject to&#xA;spontaneous combustion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.odiesoil.com/content/MSDS%20ODIE%27S%20OIL.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;older SDS&lt;/a&gt; has the following statement:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A proprietary blend of all-natural FDA approved food safe oils and waxes. This product is manufactured without the use of solvents, heavy metals, chemical hardeners, or drying agents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This implies that if this is indeed a drying oil, it does not achieve its drying ability through heavy metal compounds like most modern drying oil (Boiled Linseed Oil being the prime example of that). I can only assume that the claim for natural ingredient together with drying characteristics are thanks to heating the oil in absence of oxygen (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linseed_oil#Stand_oil&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;). This can be done to linseed oil as well as tung oil (meaning the actual oil from nuts of the tung tree (Vernicia fordii) and not the products sold as Tung Oil which are typically highly diluted varnishes) and would probably explain the high cost of the oil as that process requires both specialized equipment as well as time. The consistency of the product supports this as well, as stand oil becomes &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/threads/how-to-use-stand-linseed-oil.11378/post-89176&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;much thicker during the heating process&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again from the SDS:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paste-like to liquid&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the durability of this product, if it behaves like any other drying oil it should have similar durability (which is not a lot). If it is indeed stand oil, it should provide greater durability and protection for the wood, but I have no idea how that would measure up to film finishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if this is indeed stand oil with some (natural) additives to improve workability, you might be able to experiment with stand oil sold for arts. These are significantly cheaper than Odie's Oil, but it is indeed a gamble whether or not they will work well (or at all) as a wood finish. There is one &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodfinishingenterprises.com/shop/oils/linseed-stand-oil/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;place that sells stand oil&lt;/a&gt; as a woodworking finish (reached through Google, no affiliation or endorsement), again much cheaper than Odie's Oil and again unclear if the products are comparable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2022-06-27T20:53:18.940" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3566" CreationDate="2022-06-28T04:43:43.833" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buy a 4 inch wire wheel with a 1/4&amp;quot; quick connet shaft and chuck it up in an impact driver. Impact is better than a drill because if the wheel binds, it will not jerk as hard. Knock the loose rust off the files, soak overnight in vinegar and the deactivate the acid in a bath of water and baking soda. Pat dry with an old towel and apply wd 40 or boiled linseed oil. A plastic brush will work it into the teeth just fine. Pat off the excess and run a torch over it. Touch up your finish after each use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12269" LastActivityDate="2022-06-28T04:43:43.833" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13913" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-28T21:12:48.703" Score="1" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 4 inch cookie of honey locust I purchased from a local dealer. Kiln dried and moisture between 8 and 10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had done all the crack filling on this piece and sanding it up.&#xA;Left it in garage for a few weeks as life gets hectic.&#xA;Came out to find new and large cracks, some straight through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this the nature of the wood? How to stop this from cracking further?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10273" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-06-29T14:19:22.930" LastActivityDate="2022-06-29T16:30:14.467" Title="Honey locust disc cracking" Tags="|wood-repair|wood-movement|live-edge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13913" CreationDate="2022-06-28T23:06:41.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Discs of most woods will crack. When first cut you can treat discs with PEG to limit cracking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your wood was probably not at EMC (equilibrium moisture content). Moisture meters either&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;check wood at one spot (where you put the pins), or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;check the average MC (moisture content) across a section using resistance. Taking samples from all parts of the wood is the only surefire method.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More info here:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodweb.com/knowledge_base/How_to_Limit_Cracking_when_Drying_Wood_Discs.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://woodweb.com/knowledge_base/How_to_Limit_Cracking_when_Drying_Wood_Discs.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6079" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2022-06-29T16:30:14.467" LastActivityDate="2022-06-29T16:30:14.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13908" CreationDate="2022-06-29T08:51:11.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What will your bow be made from?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PVA can be used in bowmaking to glue wood to wood. If bow will be used outdoors exterior grade of PVA is best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously PVA not suitable to bond synthetic materials. You will use epoxy if you want to add fibreglass, carbon fibre, micarta etc. But you can also choose this for bows made only from wood. Epoxy has zero creep and 100% waterproof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-qdLw79_JUM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gluing laminations on a former - How to make a Longbow&lt;/a&gt; uses PVA (Titebond II)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zhhq0zkSUws&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Making A Laminated Bow In Silence...&lt;/a&gt; uses epoxy (from Smooth-On, possibly &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.smooth-on.com/spotlight/bow-makers-depend-ea-40-adhesive/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;EA-40&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bows made from solid wood still possible today, but much more work!&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MckLSv_jCHk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Osage orange bow made on this video.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Sweet cherry, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AJWVtGtF3HA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Making a Recurve Bow in Silence&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Ash, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XYPWsZRU2Q4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;part 1&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aPWrkQ8yF90&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;part 2&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastActivityDate="2022-06-29T08:51:11.877" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11535" CreationDate="2022-06-29T17:07:33.427" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know it's been awhile, but these questions and answers are visited for years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been using boiled linseed oil and various pigments for painting houses and sheds for about 10 years. It does dry slow, it can still have thicker areas like drips which take months to dry solid. Most of it is dry in three days and in good conditions with fresh made paint in a day its dry to the touch. I have the best luck with red, but white and tan colors have worked ok. If you want faster drying you can add Japan dryer. Someone above mentioned manganese and that's whats in most of the Japan dryers as far as I know. It doesn't take much. I do that if I need one day drying where I need to work on the area immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I dont recommend high levels of zinc oxide. About 10-15% is the upper limit in my opinon. The good aspects of zinc oxide is the mildew prevention. I add 10% for that purpose even to any of the colors. The bad is the brittle nature of the paint, which for house paint is not an advantage. An alternative filler for white is calcium carbonate. Opaque and dense and cheap it can cut down on the cost of the titanium. I use it in most of my paint mixes along with clays in the colored paints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One advantage you will find is that the standard boiled linseed oil off the shelf it doesnt have a lot of dryer, but this allows the oil to penetrate the wood and the cracks in old paint. This means those of us with old houses which have cracking and peeling paint have a better durability over time as it tends to seal the old paint longer than fast drying commercial paints. I have also been able to use it over latex which was painted on old oil paint, with pretty good results. I do not recommend this as a general practice, but it saved us from significant paint removal work. The possible disadvantage of home mixed paint is that the colors tend to weather unevenly, especially on single coat cover after several years, which I do not mind but may bother some folks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use a higher grade of filtered linseed oil, there will be less mildew, but I have pretty good luck with the 10% Zinc Oxide and the cheaper oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12276" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2022-07-01T17:09:18.963" LastActivityDate="2022-07-01T17:09:18.963" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13917" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-29T20:53:30.070" Score="1" ViewCount="173" Body="&lt;p&gt;I glued up a panel using these 24&amp;quot; long cedar boards and because of the length (56&amp;quot;) If I pick up the panel on one side, it flexes and feels like it's going to break on one of the glued joints. This panel is going to be a cover for a firepit so I want it as thin as possible. I was thinking of embedding some flat bar in it to make it more ridged but looking for alternatives too. Could I embed some poplar going lengthwise instead of metal? Would I have to worry about potential movement since I would be going against the grain on all of the boards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[edit to address some comments]&#xA;I went in this direction because the boards I had were too small. I guess I could have glued up the boards to make longer boards and then glued them into a panel but I'm not sure if that would have been better.&#xA;I can screw in something on the bottom but I'm worried about movement if I did that. If I took a 1x2 lengthwise and put a single screw into each board that would make it much more stiff but would that allow for the movement it needs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b4nNb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b4nNb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5018" LastEditorUserId="5018" LastEditDate="2022-06-29T21:34:00.413" LastActivityDate="2022-07-01T15:13:00.437" Title="Solutions to stop a glued up panel from flexing" Tags="|panel|expansion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13917" CreationDate="2022-06-30T00:44:12.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is basically a table top - stretcher attachment problem, and there are good solutions.   Simplest would be to make two or three stretchers and screw them underneath your panel.  To prevent wood movement from wrecking the construction you should fasten only the center of the stretchers immovably to the panel, and put all the screws from the center outward in elongated slots, so the panel can slide on the stretchers.   You can mill the slots with a spiral router bit.   From the fixed center, you need to accommodate 28&amp;quot; or less of &amp;quot;free&amp;quot; wood, so a 3/8&amp;quot; long slot should be sufficient.   If the wood is starting kiln dried, place the screws at or near the inboard ends of the slots.   If it's at summertime equilibrium moisture content, stay in the center, or toward the outboard end.  Use washer head screws, or screws with flats on the heads and separate washers.   One screw per board in each stringer will probably do, although two would be better, particularly since the boards won't accept very deep screws..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's too hard, or you lack the tools, get some slotted c-channel instead of making the stretchers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11864" LastEditorUserId="11864" LastEditDate="2022-06-30T12:50:38.417" LastActivityDate="2022-06-30T12:50:38.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13917" CreationDate="2022-07-01T15:13:00.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can screw in something on the bottom but I'm worried about movement if I did that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a reasonable worry, as the movement with the grain oriented as it is won't be insignificant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is because the grain is oriented with the short axis, and as movement is across the grain this arrangement maximises the potential expansion and contraction along the long axis of the panel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do bear in mind that actual movement is directly based on how much the local conditions change with the seasons. You can look up the average high and low RH for your location and based on that fairly accurately calculate the EMC&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, and hence expected movement in service, or you can simply err on the side of caution and allow for a lot. As there's no penalty for doing the second that's the route I'd advise; this way you can be sure that no matter what the weather throws at you in the future you'll be covered. Given how weather is changing globally this may be prudent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I took a 1x2 lengthwise and put a single screw into each board that would make it much more stiff but would that allow for the movement it needs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No it wouldn't, in fact it would be most likely to cause an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a start you don't need to screw into every board. The panel should be assumed to be structurally sound so 3-5 screws (per stiffener) may be sufficient...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;...that is, IF the screws have sufficient bite in the panel.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the photo the panel looks too thin to securely screw in from the bottom, the way you'd typically attach a tabletop to expansion plates, buttons, Z-clips etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While there's no hard-and-fast rule a useful rule of thumb is that you need at least three threads for a proper hold, and the softer the wood the more thread engagement you'd want for confidence that you won't get pull-out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on this, I think mounting the stiffeners using strong magnets is a possible solution, but note that with many magnets you have to make sure they never get hot&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this is for the cover of a firepit &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; with directly face the sky in use, drilling through would be a surer bet. You'd mount with nuts and bolts/machine screws for metal strips, or regular screws for thicker wood stiffeners; the screw/bolt heads can be mounted flush in countersinks or below flush in counterbores if preferred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To allow for movement, screws go through slots&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You're arranging for the panel to expand outwards from the centre at both ends, so the central screws simply pass through drilled holes as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, how long do the slots at each end of the stiffening plates or battens need to be? Luckily cedar doesn't move a lot in service — this would be so much worse if made from hardwood! — so slots of 1/2&amp;quot; should be sufficient; note this is based on the outermost screws being roughly 25&amp;quot; from centre&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As we're only just out of June and typically more-humid months lie ahead, &lt;em&gt;mount the outer screws close to the &lt;strong&gt;far end&lt;/strong&gt; of each slot&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Or, let someone else do it for you :-) See FPL document &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.esf.edu/wus/documents/EMCofWoodFPL268.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Equilibrium Moisture Content of Wood in Outdoor Locations in the United States and Worldwide&lt;/a&gt; (PDF warning).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; I've added a comfortable margin of error, for max possible movement in the wood, mounting not being possible exactly 25&amp;quot; from the centreline (i.e having to be further out), and greater EMC change than in published sources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Many common grades of rare-earth magnet permanently lose strength when heated, starting at temps below that of boiling water, 176°F (80°C). High-temp-stable magnets are available, example &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D61SH&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; but note these can withstand temps only up to 302°F (150°C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-07-01T15:13:00.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13903" CreationDate="2022-07-01T18:06:19.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Following the ideas from @Walnut Close and others, I made a sled for my jointer, made three slices of ash, each arond 3-4 mm (1/8&amp;quot;) and set up a jig using some water safe plywood I had sitting in my store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end I used a steam iron to do the steaming. That worked just beautiful, using a little bit of force feeling very easy when I had used enough heat and steam so it went into the shape I wanted. Ready for glueing up tomorrow.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2thZD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2thZD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About 10-15 cm (4-6&amp;quot;) between each clamp. This seems to have worked fine, and after all, I do not have more small clamps. (Every woodworker needs more clamps!) The jig was a bit rough, but my thought was that if it is not too far from the intended shape and no parts are protruding, it should work - and it seems to have worked well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2022-07-01T18:06:19.377" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13923" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13931" CreationDate="2022-07-01T20:41:46.820" Score="3" ViewCount="171" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built this simple shave horse following Rex Kreuger &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hqudWoT_jkg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;plans&lt;/a&gt;; it is made from kiln-dried spruce. It worked great (as far as I can tell, first time using one!) once completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I will be storing it in a barn whose roof is getting leakier and leakier, I wanted to finish it in a way that would provide some basic protection if water was standing on it for a few days. (It will be covered by a tarp, but mice eat the tarp, etc). Raw linseed oil is all that was available in my shop, so I used that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I finished it as I usually do, flooding the surface and waiting 15 or so minutes, then wiping down any excess. Then I come back after another 20 minutes and wipe down any excess, continuing to do this for the rest of hte day every hour or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next day the linseed oil is looking nice, and clearly has begun to cure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it is much less better at holding work now that the surfaces are a little harder and oilier. Chair legs will slip a bit when I'm working a knot, etc. Mostly the block below the angled working-surface slides towards me, loosening the hold and forcing to kick my legs out further and further to keep the same pressure on the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried sanding down the points-of-contact where sliding has occurred, but this doesn't work very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I remedy this? I've considered trying to permanently affix sandpaper or another grippy material to the block, or even re-making the block part (although I have no scrap material left over, so this would be an errand and an extra expense).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a sub-question, how &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; I have treated the shave horse (if at all) to make it better withstand the elements?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks! &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rt5UA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rt5UA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image of shave horse&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="292" LastActivityDate="2022-07-03T22:54:56.667" Title="Finished shave horse with linseed oil; now it is too slippery to hold work well" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13925" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-02T10:09:46.907" Score="0" ViewCount="133" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought these secondhand cross-back chairs and I think they look great. However I think they will look even better if they have a brighter colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to suggestions for easy ways to make them look like the last pics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xVEpG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xVEpG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DEHUU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DEHUU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Sy6M.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Sy6M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12295" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-07-02T19:38:47.870" LastActivityDate="2022-07-02T19:38:47.870" Title="What's a good way to lighten the colour of this chair, returning it to a natural-wood appearance?" Tags="|refinishing|coloring|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13925" CreationDate="2022-07-02T12:27:27.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK looks like my options are using a paint stripper, sandpaper or a using a heat gun. Despite the health hazards involved, the first seems to be the easiest one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then after finishing I'd have to apply varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12295" LastActivityDate="2022-07-02T12:27:27.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13925" CreationDate="2022-07-02T19:36:50.427" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to suggestions for easy ways to make them look like the last pics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no easy way to do this, sorry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of whether the chairs have coloured finish on them or are conventionally stained (with a clear finish over that) you have to remove the finish. The preferred way of doing this on anything that isn't just a series of flat surfaces is by using chemical stripper, and this is a time-consuming, messy, tedious job on anything more complex than a simple table (as any guide that demonstrates the manual stripping of a chair will make very plain&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;). Home stripping has also been made more difficult in recent years with the almost complete removal of methylene chloride-based strippers from the reach of the general public in the US, Europe and possibly other markets because of overt concern about the risks to users (which were real, but massively blown out of proportion..... especially in the US). See note at bottom about commercial stripping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scraping, with or without use of a heat gun, and sanding are other methods for removing finish but the design of the chair I think means neither are viable (certainly not without disassembly), and sanding is anyway the worst way to remove finish from furniture as covered in numerous previous Answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If it's coloured finish&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;It's impossible to tell for sure from the photo but it looks like the chair is covered in a coloured finish, which would be good news. If it is coloured finish it means that once that finish is removed most of the colour will go with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately the important word here is most — there's no guarantee ahead of time that you'll get back to a uniform bare-wood appearance because wood always has areas that are more absorbent than others. These areas can hold on to the colour from a coloured varnish/lacquer &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; more stubbornly that everywhere else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If it's stain&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If the wood is stained it's a completely different story and it may be effectively impossible to remove the colour from the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not completely impossible to remove stain from wood, it's just that the chairs have interconnected and crossing pieces, some quite thin, so you don't have the sanding leeway you'd have if you were trying to do the same job on a simple table with square-section legs&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Commercial dip-tank stripping is available in a lot of places. While a lot of bad things are said about this sort of process, claiming it will ruin anything and everything that is treated this way, the fact is that even pros sometimes make use of this option. And yes, on antiques. It is not without its risks&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;, but when you get a piece of furniture back from such a stripping service you've saved better than 95% of the time and effort the process would have taken otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; See Michael Dresdner doing this in his very comprehensive book on finishing, &lt;strong&gt;The New Wood Finishing Book&lt;/strong&gt; starting on p53. If you don't have local access to a copy this can be borrowed for reading on Archive.org after joining (membership is free).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Dresdner goes on to tackle this subject in the following pages of his book, beginning on p58. If you find the wood is stained I advise going into it expecting that you won't be successful to avoid disappointment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Joints may be loosened, the wood may be irretrievably discoloured, grain can be heavily raised and there can sometimes be warpage, but the worst of this does not by any means happen to the majority of pieces (or nobody would be willing to use it!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-07-02T19:36:50.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13928" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-03T14:47:43.843" Score="1" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to build a house for a Christmas yard display that I need to assemble and disassemble each year. Is there a way to connect the display without screws, or nails. I don't want it to wearout after so many assemblies and disassemblies over time. I was thinking door hinges then I can just remove the pin each time but is there a better way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12309" LastActivityDate="2022-07-20T21:40:38.230" Title="Building a Christmas yard house display" Tags="|fasteners|assembly|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13929" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13938" CreationDate="2022-07-03T20:40:09.270" Score="1" ViewCount="309" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a few dados to make with a router on MDF boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The boards are 28 to 40 cm (11&amp;quot; to ~15 3/4&amp;quot;) wide, and lengthwise they range from 80 cm to 250 cm (~31 1/2&amp;quot; to ~98 7/16&amp;quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for good ways to clamp a fence for my router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By good way, I mean: that doesn't interfere with the router when I'm routing, and that's easy to set up regardless of the location of the dado along the length of the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The router is a Makita RT0700C with the three bases that come standard &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V3leX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V3leX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the basic setup that shows the relative dimensions of the workbench, the piece of wood I'm working on, the desired locations of the dados, and why I can't just clamp both ends of the fence easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lhgg0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lhgg0.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1682" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-07-05T22:36:10.120" LastActivityDate="2022-07-07T19:50:13.507" Title="How to clamp a fence for a router on a narrow piece of wood" Tags="|router|jig|fence|groove|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13928" CreationDate="2022-07-03T22:12:22.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without any details of the construction we can only give the most general advice, but there's no reason you couldn't rely on screws to hold most or all of this together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contrary to popular belief, screws can usually be driven in and withdrawn multiple times without issue as long as you're careful. It's generally over-tightening that leads to screws stripping their holes, not merely being reinserted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you can do a few things to have more reliable longer service life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reinforce the holes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Screw holes can be reinforced by dribbling in superglue/CA to strengthen the wall. This can make holes, even in softwoods and MDF or chipboard/particleboard, surprisingly durable. From what I've seen in workshop jigs and some tools this could double service life, being conservative (my bet would be it's actually significantly more than this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use machine screws&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The finer threading on machine screws and bolts can actually hold better in wood, particularly in hardwoods (reinforced softwoods probably equate to hardwoods). Even screws that require constant adjustment can last years in hardwoods with the threading either 'forced in', as with normal screwing, or cut/tapped (using a homemade tap, see bonus point in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1716/how-can-you-make-a-regular-screw-into-a-self-tapping-screw/1735#1735&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;) if preferred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And beyond this once you're using machine screws it opens up the possibility of using threaded inserts, which in theory at least could give an almost unlimited service life (decades).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Also, magnets for some parts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;These days with the easy availability of affordable rare-earth magnets various things that require just a reasonably firm hold can now be arranged using magnets, either acting in pairs or a magnet in one part holding a screw driven into the mating part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-07-03T22:12:22.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13923" CreationDate="2022-07-03T22:54:56.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried sanding down the points-of-contact where sliding has occurred, but this doesn't work very well.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;How can I remedy this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sand more coarsely (cross-grain, using 80 grit or lower), or line it with leather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also line with cork or crubber which both give great hold, but expect to have to replace either far more frequently than leather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a sub-question, how &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; I have treated the shave horse (if at all) to make it better withstand the elements?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a tricky question because the answer is as much opinion as anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I've seen, many shave horses — even those that seem to be left outside some or all of the time — are left unfinished so no finish at all is a viable option, even with the horse not being made from pressure-treated wood&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the storage conditions I'd probably want to finish it myself, though I'm not sure what I'd have picked (although not BLO by itself&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;). I may have gone with a couple of coats of spar varnish thinned to wiping consistency (or a dilute mix of BLO and poly, which would be nearly the same thing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a large number of wood-treatment products for exterior projects, garden furniture, decks, fences and sheds and any type of those — penetrating sealant, exterior varnish, &amp;quot;teak oil&amp;quot;, deck sealants etc. — must be viable options. And although nobody seems to paint theirs a shave horse could obviously be painted given how well paint protects the exterior woodwork on houses, barns etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Despite the expectation that this will be regularly wet, without direct exposure to the weather and not in contact with soil I'd expect this to &lt;em&gt;easily&lt;/em&gt; last a decade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Linseed oil (regardless whether raw, heat-treated or with metallic driers) does very very little to really protect wood. Even if applied the old-timey way, built up over many weeks to more than a dozen coats and then allowed to cure for a month it's &lt;em&gt;still&lt;/em&gt; not very resistant to water. And in addition, in a damp environment, wood treated with linseed oil is more prone to fungal attack than it was left bare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-07-03T22:54:56.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13932" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-04T03:55:06.340" Score="2" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a new table top made of solid wood as my old one was veneer that was wrecked by scratches &amp;amp; white marks by hot pads not being used. So I asked for a strong protective clear coating so wood wouldn't easily get wrecked by guests. He suggested a clear 'bar coating' (several layers to make it last).  I used the same vinyl placemats used on my old tabletop but within month noticed underneath them the finish is yellowing!! Chemical reaction? Wrong product finish? Help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12310" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2022-07-05T13:04:25.060" LastActivityDate="2022-07-05T13:04:25.060" Title="What causes yellowing of clear finish under vinyl placemats?" Tags="|tabletop|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13933" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13935" CreationDate="2022-07-04T14:03:48.810" Score="1" ViewCount="137" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a small wooden box. To ensure the joints are strong, and to compensate for variations in my cutting, I was planning on using through dowels to get a good strong joint. I was also hoping it would be a bit of an aesthetic feature too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following the usual rule of thumb, the 6mm thick wood suggests 2-3mm dowels are as large as I should go (this is about 1/16 inch). But wood glue is pretty thick and gloopy (viscous), so how would I be sure to get good glue coverage. I can't pour the glue down the hole (it won't go in the small hole).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was planning on coating the dowel and pushing it in, hoping that would give coverage down the full length of the dowel. Perhaps someone could tell me how it is supposed to be done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11381" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-07-04T16:22:56.593" LastActivityDate="2022-07-07T21:40:31.630" Title="How do I get good glue coverage with a very small, 2-3mm, dowels?" Tags="|glue|dowel|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13933" CreationDate="2022-07-04T14:35:59.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider to score a spiral along the length of the dowel, or scribe lines parallel to the length (fluted dowels). This is akin to some &lt;a href=&quot;https://wood-dowel.com/wood-dowel-pins/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;commercially available dowels&lt;/a&gt; with rather large scores, providing additional surface area on which the glue will bond.&#xA;Images from linked site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cz0hB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cz0hB.png&quot; alt=&quot;fluted and spiral dowel&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastEditorUserId="3985" LastEditDate="2022-07-05T17:54:38.887" LastActivityDate="2022-07-05T17:54:38.887" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13933" CreationDate="2022-07-04T16:20:10.993" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following the usual rule of thumb, the 6mm thick wood suggests 2-3mm dowels are as large as I should go (this is about 1/16 inch).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3mm is maybe pushing it (as it leaves only a quarter of the wood's thickness to either side of the drilled hole) but on the other hand 2mm dowelling would be really skinny, towards the low end of what's really practical in a lot of woods — could be excessively prone to breakage both during manufacture and usage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're comfortable using 3mm I wanted to mention that you can use bamboo skewers. These are especially strong, and from the sets I've bought typical diameter seems to be in the range of 2.8-3.1mm. Because of the sometimes sloppy fit in a 3mm drilled hole I would advise switching adhesives and using epoxy because PVA has almost no gap-filling ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1/16&amp;quot; is 1.58mm BTW. 5/64&amp;quot; is a closer approximation to 2mm (only 0.02mm off), and although this probably seems an awkward fraction to a metric thinker it actually appears to be a commonly available bit size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But wood glue is pretty thick and gloopy (viscous), so how would I be sure to get good glue coverage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd use a suitable glue applicator, same as when applying glue to any recess where you want fairly uniform glue coverage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was planning on coating the dowel and pushing it in, hoping that would give coverage down the full length of the dowel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly, for these that's likely to be perfectly adequate. After all, some woodworkers only apply glue to one side of almost every joint!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It &lt;em&gt;would&lt;/em&gt; be best practice to add glue to both the hole and to the thing going in the hole (just as it is in mortise-and-tenon joinery) but I have seen other people barely glue theirs in. And it's worth mentioning that in some applications wooden pins/pegs (typically sharpened to some kind of point) are used like nails and aren't glued at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I like to be as conscientious as possible and glue mine in, because, why not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW if you want to maximise the reinforcement pins provide, don't put them all in perpendicular to the surface. A slight angle on some or all — e.g. like this / \ or this \ | / gives a dovetail-like hold, which gives a noticeable bump in strength. As I mention in a previous Answer or two, the angle only needs to be shallow for the effect to kick in, so the ends aren't very obviously oval in case that would bother you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-07-05T11:13:11.020" LastActivityDate="2022-07-05T11:13:11.020" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13936" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14039" CreationDate="2022-07-05T01:40:43.127" Score="1" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a 4-piece 'rock and roll' style bed which converts into two opposite facing bench seats when in the upright position.  Constructed out of 18mm ply with supporting structural members where required.  Images from Sketchup included at the bottom&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When in the upright position, I want the backrest to be stable.  To some extent the triangulation of the two vertical ply members will provide some stability, but I am worried that there will still be a lot of movement (or bounce if you like) as I have made the design so that, at minimum extension of the bed platform, the angle of the backrests is ~75-80 degrees from horizontal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is not a lot of room below the top level of framing and the internal cavity underneath as I will be using this space to house drawers so I want to minimise the bulk of any supporting strut that i add to achieve my objective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking that I will need a cross-brace between the two backrests to provide support, or a brace from one of the backrests back to a solid point attached to the framing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can i do this in a way that will minimise bulk, be easy to use/retract and fold back to flush when the bed is in the extended position?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oQCuL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oQCuL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;model&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12313" LastActivityDate="2022-08-18T14:41:43.163" Title="How to design supporting strut for 4-piece rock and roll bed" Tags="|design|plywood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13928" CreationDate="2022-07-05T13:09:17.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Through bolts with washers and nuts could be used in many situations. This way there is no worry whatsoever about the wood as there is no mechanical reliance on the wood to hold the fasteners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, with no additional detail, there's no telling if this would work for your situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2022-07-05T13:09:17.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13929" CreationDate="2022-07-05T15:16:40.453" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I presume you're routing the groves across the short direction of the long brown board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use an edge clamping guide such as this inexpensive one from Harbor Freight:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ImMTE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ImMTE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Clamping straight edge&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;sup&gt;*No endorsement intended or implied, it's just an example. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.harborfreight.com/52-in-100-in-clamp-and-cutting-edge-guide-58363.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Actual link for more details&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This type of guide will sit flat on the piece that you're routing and has clamps that will grip the edge of the piece being worked on. The clamp pads are pretty low profile, in the range of 1/2 - 3/4&amp;quot;, so they should be able to grip onto the edges of your stock without hitting the work surface below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, for some reason, the clamp pads are too thick and hit the work surface, clamp a narrower piece of wood to the work surface, clamp your work piece on top of the narrower piece, then you'll have clearance to use the clamp pads on this tool. Something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  +----------+     Clamp&#xA;  |xxxxxxxxxx|     Clamp pads around thin work piece&#xA;  |  aaaaaa  |     Clamp pads hanging below work piece, over extra piece&#xA;=================  Work table&#xA;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMHO, it's easier to use the round base for something like this because it's &lt;em&gt;round&lt;/em&gt;. If you accidentally twist the router against the guide, you're still the same distance from the center of the cut. If you use a base with a flat side and accidentally twist the router a bit, you've moved the bit further from the center line you're intending to cut and, therefore, ruin the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used edge guide clamps like these (again, not this particular brand) for circular saw cuts and for router cuts for close to 30 years. They work extremely well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2022-07-05T15:16:40.453" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13929" CreationDate="2022-07-05T17:12:34.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I was inspired by FreeMan answer, and it turns out I had half of the solution already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been using parallel clamps , Bessey Revo and Uniklamp, for some time, and it can be solved easily using an off cut like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JlWfV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JlWfV.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It works because: the jaws have a large, flat contact area, and the clamp will right itself when tightening because it is a bit slippy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can always put the clamp at an angle if the jaws are touching the workbench;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important that the off cut has the exact same width as the piece you're going to cut, and has a factory right angle / edge for optimal results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like this because the footprint is really minimal; you can even put the handle on the other side (at the end of the cut) to have even less things to grab against (router cable, clothes..)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1682" LastActivityDate="2022-07-05T17:12:34.553" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13929" CreationDate="2022-07-05T23:03:11.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would make a basic 'T-square' jig for this from a scrap of MDF or ply&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, with a long plywood or hardwood fence&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; glued and screwed/nailed underneath one end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would give automatic 90° registration each time, so no fussing about aligning a plain board each time it's moved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;both the jig and the workpiece are held in place by the same strong clamp acting downwards (so the clamping force does the most good);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it extends the bearing surface for the router which helps ensure the full length of the dado is milled equally.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you're confident in your clamp's hold, e.g. if you were to use a large C-clamp, it would still be a good idea to lightly clamp elsewhere along the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; The body of the jig must have one good straight edge, but preferably the other edge should be parallel so the router can be run along either side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Long to give good registration; I suggest making it at least 200mm in length. If you can do it easily I would plane or joint the mating surface of the fence at a slight angle, 1° or a bit less is enough. This isn't vital, but helps ensure an especially firm hold as the clamp is tightened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-07-05T23:03:11.857" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13929" CreationDate="2022-07-07T18:14:37.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a &amp;quot;guide board&amp;quot; that features a cleat that will fit down into a previously cut dado and you can use a clamp that is oriented perpendicular to the work piece (and bench top) to lock cleat of the guide into a previously cut dado. This will ensure that all the dadoes are equally spaced without measuring (inviting error) the space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this way the lateral motion is constrained by the guide board in the dado and the guide board is secured to the work piece using the same clamping force designated to hold the work piece to the bench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cut the initial dado by running the cleat along the edge of the work piece. Getting the first dado positioned correctly may require off-setting the cleat along the width of the guide block or other allowances, but once you have the first dado cut, move the guide board to the newly cut dado and repeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastActivityDate="2022-07-07T18:14:37.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13929" CreationDate="2022-07-07T19:18:55.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like you've come up with a solution that works for you, which is great. However, a solution that might be simpler, and perhaps useful in the future, is to just turn the workpiece 90°, so that you can put a clamp on both sides of the fence and then route the dado parallel to the edge of the bench. Or, equivalently, move the fence to the end of the bench and clamp both sides there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another good solution if you're doing a lot of these is to make a custom base for the router that includes a bar set at an appropriate distance from the bit so that the bar is guided by the edge of the workpiece or one side of the previous dado, giving you evenly spaced dados with no need to unclamp, reposition, and reclamp a separate fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A third option is to use a larger fence. If we agree to call the side of the fence that the router bears against the &lt;em&gt;width&lt;/em&gt;, then a fence that's &lt;em&gt;longer&lt;/em&gt; would let you clamp in two places along the same edge of the bench, which will hold it just as securely in place as clamping along the width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fourth option is to drill a hole in your bench. It's very common to have holes in workbenches; they're used both for bench dogs (which give a vertical surface to clamp against with e.g. a vise), and also for clamping work to the surface using any of a variety of hold-down clamps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2022-07-07T19:50:13.507" LastActivityDate="2022-07-07T19:50:13.507" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13933" CreationDate="2022-07-07T21:40:31.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But wood glue is pretty thick and gloopy (viscous), so how would I be sure to get good glue coverage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider using thinner glue. Cyanoacrylate (CA) glue (aka superglue) is available in low viscosity versions that are great for seeping into tight spaces. The thinnest stuff will be pulled into the joint via capillary action. Insert the dowels into the holes in the bottom part, add a few drops of thin CA around the dowels and along the rest of the joint, add the top part and another drop or two of CA at the dowels, and spray with activator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-07-07T21:40:31.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13905" CreationDate="2022-07-08T02:19:04.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;At first I tried planing (using test pieces instead of the actual top), with both a pretty well-tuned low-angle block plane&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ySlcK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ySlcK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Stanley low angle block plane&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and a cheap Buck Bros. #5 jack plane with a freshly-sharpened blade,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f2hTq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f2hTq.png&quot; alt=&quot;Buck Bros #5 jack plane&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but I haven't had time to tune anything else. The low-angle worked better than the #5, but I had tearout issues with both of them, so I didn't let them near the actual desk top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then tried using a card scraper. Once I got a good burnished edge curl on it and figured out how to hold it properly it gave me very good control at removing wood just where I wanted to. However, with the amount of wood it removes with each pass (a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; thin shaving, or just dust) and the amount of surface I had to flatten (32&amp;quot; x 54&amp;quot; – 813 mm x 1372 mm), plus a bit of arthritis in my hands, it would have been a daunting task to scrape flat the entire surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I happened across a &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B006L6N0LI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kunz-manufactured version of the #80 scraper plane&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f1iXR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f1iXR.png&quot; alt=&quot;Kunz #80 scraper plane&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It differs from a card scraper in several ways – the blade is about twice as thick, approximately 1/16&amp;quot; (0.06&amp;quot; or 1.53 mm), the curl is burnished from a 45° angled edge instead of a flat 90° one, the depth of cut can be adjusted somewhat by raising and lowering the blade in the housing, and importantly (for me, at least) the tool is comfortable to use for long periods of time. It requires the same amount of force pushing away from your body, but the wear and tear on your fingers from forcing the card scraper into a curve is completely eliminated, as the blade is curved by means of a screw in the middle of the body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with an aggressive cut depth, it still took me at least 2-3 hours to get the entire surface to a more-or-less flattened state. After the initial scraping, I drew pencil lines over the surface and used a random orbit sander with 120 grit sandpaper to get an even finish and find any remaining high/low spots. I came back with the scraper to address them, and after a couple rounds it's looking pretty good!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2022-07-08T02:19:04.077" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13946" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-08T16:50:28.907" Score="1" ViewCount="182" Body="&lt;p&gt;Among my future woodworking plans is to build a wood and canvas canoe. I have more or less grown up in one and I participated in building one a long time ago so I think I know what I am up to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When looking into descriptions (mostly from US or Canada), I see the preferred materials are ash and cedar. Ash for the &amp;quot;ribs&amp;quot; going across and cedar for the parts running the length of the canoe. It must be relatively bendable but also able to withstand being wet. My problem is that in Norway where I live, it is more or less impossible to get hold of cedar. Spruce on the other hand is easy to find. Does anyone have any experience on the behavior of spruce as a replacement for cedar for this type of work? I may be able to get hold of larch, that should be pretty good in water, but my little experience with larch says that it is relatively brittle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I read, it may seem that spruce in many ways is a better wood for this use, but cedar is more water resistant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2022-07-08T16:50:28.907" Title="Cedar vs spruce vs larch for building canoe" Tags="|wood-species|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13947" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-08T17:31:46.577" Score="0" ViewCount="173" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is the design idea I have in mind and I want to avoid putting a post at the end. I'm planning to lay down a lightweight flat rain roof on top of the boards - roughly 20 lbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought of going with a knee braces may be? But how do I go about the math here? Do I do 45 degree cuts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main concern is the middle board as there is nowhere to do a knee brace. Potentially re-enforce it with some kind of a metal part?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extra details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;everything is wood-based, posts are pressured treated redwood/douglas, horizontal boards are likely a cedar (something very light)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the main structure is attached to a wall (house)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;vertical posts are 4x4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;horizontal boards are 2x4 or likely something smaller - it simply needs to support a lightweight flat rain roof&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a joinery details as that's something I'm trying to figure out here&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qJfis.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qJfis.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12324" LastEditorUserId="12324" LastEditDate="2022-07-08T20:36:41.163" LastActivityDate="2022-07-12T20:44:49.487" Title="How do I support a free hanging long board without a post at the end?" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6258" CreationDate="2022-07-09T11:59:34.277" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ability to adjust the plunge depth AFTER it is locked in place with the typical side lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way you can adjust the depth on the fly, without having to unlock and measure, and so on. I had this feature on my first (cheap Bosch) router, and I lost it when upgrading to a Makita RT0700C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if the router has this feature, it's also possible that this can be accessed from the bottom of the router when mounted upside down, which is a great feature when used on a router table. You have to pay for this feature, but it's cheaper down the road because you already have it built-in, and this is not a trivial feature to replicate properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1682" LastActivityDate="2022-07-09T11:59:34.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13949" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-09T18:43:53.180" Score="1" ViewCount="583" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a campaign-style jewelry box, and am curious about the best way to inlay a corner guard that has a curve in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan is to make a full size photo copy of the hardware, then rubber cement them to the corners to begin mortising out the profile of the brass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, for the curve, I'm not sure exactly how to go about it. I have standard square bench chisels and a router plane, but is there a better tool for the job to tackle this arc profile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I'm in an apartment and can't use any power tools, otherwise I'd likely use a palm router and pattern bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brass I'm looking to use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v6zIP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v6zIP.png&quot; alt=&quot;Curved brass corner guard&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example of mounted brass campaign hardware:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1jHhK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1jHhK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;example of campaign furniture with corner brass ornament&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2022-07-11T16:38:16.767" Title="How do you inlay a brass corner ornament using handtools only?" Tags="|hand-tools|inlay|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13949" CreationDate="2022-07-09T22:24:32.590" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your chisels and router plane are completely adequate tools for the job.   The curve you have to cut are convex in the wood, so approximating with small chisel nibbles is perfectly feasible.  I would proceed as follows: Mount support blocks flush with the final surface on the outside of the corner, so you have an adequate plane to support your router plane.    Make outline cuts with chisels that leave a small margin on the curve.   Route out the waste.   Remove the blocks.   Now, nibble to the convex line with a small (say 1/4&amp;quot; or 6mm) chisel with clean cuts, removing the remaining waste with flat chisel cuts to the line.   Work carefully, and there is no reason to not have a near perfect fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11864" LastEditorUserId="11864" LastEditDate="2022-07-10T04:06:06.920" LastActivityDate="2022-07-10T04:06:06.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13949" CreationDate="2022-07-10T06:38:25.353" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan is to make a full size photo copy of the hardware, then rubber cement them to the corners to begin mortising out the profile of the brass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this is a good plan for the top profile (do be sure to confirm that the photocopy is dead-on 1:1 before proceeding though) but I think not for the sides — wrapping over the corner so to speak may introduce an error that would be a pain to fix after the fact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead use a marking gauge for the height, measurement taken directly from the hardware. In addition to being super-accurate this will give you a scored or cut line to register your chisels with when you get to the perimeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an adaptation of the technique used to mortise-in for hinges if it would help to look at some of the (many) guides to doing that in books an online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have standard square bench chisels... but is there a better tool for the job to tackle this arc profile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In traditional hand-tool technique convex curves were often cut using normal chisels, since many curves were outside the range of what was available in outcannel gouges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trim back to your line and test fit incrementally and you'll get there. You could create a custom sanding block to sand this surface but it may not really be necessary once the facets get small enough — you'll be taking tiny shavings toward the end, slivers really.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lDEGt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for how to hold the chisel for these sorts of paring cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh and BTW, &lt;em&gt;use the widest chisel you feel comfortable wielding for this&lt;/em&gt;; it's much easier to judge the tangent of a wide chisel than a narrow one. Just be careful when you get to the ends that you don't knick the flat 'returns' with a corner because you're so focused on the curve (very easy to have tunnel vision doing this sort of task, DAMHIK).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tip for the router, to, uh, prevent tipping&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I would mount a much wider ancillary base AKA subbase to it so you can more easily keep it upright and firmly against the working surface. If you make it asymmetrical (as lots of power-router bases are now) mount a handle on the opposite end so you can press down there, see pictured examples &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/13636/aligning-table-top-veneer-with-solid-wood-frame/13638#13638&quot;&gt;in previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although such bases for hand routers were traditionally made of wood (even before the days of plywood) and wood is still a perfectly viable choice use Perspex if you can get it, it has lots of advantages. Acrylic or polycarbonate sheet can be cut, shaped and drilled with standard power tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...pattern bit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just for reference, unless you created a pattern to follow that had the exact inset required this wouldn't do it because of the bearing. I'd use a plain straight-cutting bit here for all surfaces (working perpendicular for all, same as you would naturally do for the top).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be worth nothing that a lot of woodworkers would use a router to hog out the waste using a powered router (both for speed and for the assurance of exact depth) but still trim the edges by hand with chisels/gouges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-07-11T16:38:16.767" LastActivityDate="2022-07-11T16:38:16.767" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13952" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13953" CreationDate="2022-07-10T10:24:34.233" Score="-1" ViewCount="6371" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought IKEA GERTON Beech Wood Tabletop.&#xA;The instructions say to use STOCKARYD wood treatment oil. It seems to be quite simple. They said in IKEA to use K 400 or K 500 sandpaper, when I asked them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like this STOCKARYD is Linseed oil + tung oil.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;I consider using Pure Tung Oil instead, because I found this info:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A pure tung oil finish has a honey-like color, and while linseed oil starts out with similar yellowing it fades to a darker orangey finish over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that standard “boiled” linseed oil sold as a wood finish contains heavy metal additives to aid drying: lead acetate and cobalt-manganese. These compounds are neither safe for you nor safe for the environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And Tung oil is said to be food-safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;- How much harder is applying Tung Oil compared to this STOCKARYD from IKEA for a complete beginner like me?&#xA;&lt;br&gt;- Will STOCKARYD oil really turn orange over time?&#xA;&lt;br&gt;- Is Tung Oil worth the additional effort?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how I understand I should apply STOCKARYD:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sand the table top’s surface along the wood grain with K 500 fine sanding paper. (it's very smooth already)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply a thin layer of STOCKARYD with a soft cloth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wipe off any unabsorbed oil with a cloth 20 minutes later.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let the surface dry for 12 hours.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat steps 2 to 4 one or two times.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I just apply Tung Oil the same way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Additional information about STOCKARYD:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the Ikea website, they list such ingredients for STOCKARYD oil:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood treatment oil, Linseed oil, Drying agent&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And they advertise it this way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It offers combined benefits of linseed oil and tung tree oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However on the STOCKARYD oil can it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contents: Linseed oil and tung oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the instructions from the GERTON Tabletop box:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to care for your new table top. Lightly sand the table top’s surface with fine sanding paper, then remove all sanding dust. Apply STOCKARYD wood treatment oil onto a soft cloth and then wipe over the surface to create a thin, even film. Leave to penetrate the surface for approx. 20 minutes. Wipe off any unabsorbed oil with a cloth. Let the surface dry and repeat the oil treatment 1-2 times if required, depending on the absorbency of the wood. Soak any used cloth impregnated with this wood treatment oil in water immediately after use, or store in an airtight glass or metal container to prevent the risk of self-ignition. Scratches and small impact marks can be removed by sanding with fine sandpaper on a sanding block. Always sand along the wood grain. Repeat the above process 1-2 times: apply wood treatment oil, leave to penetrate and then wipe off unabsorbed oil.For daily cleaning, use common soap and water – never any form of chemical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here are the instructions from the STOCKARYD Oil can:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instructions:&#xA;Lightly sand worktop surface with&#xA;fine sanding paper, then remove all sanding dust. Apply STOCKARYD onto a soft cloth then wipe over the surface to create a thin, even film. Leave to penetrate the surface for approx. 20 minutes. Wipe-off any unabsorbed&#xA;oil with the cloth. Let the surface&#xA;dry and repeat the oil treatment 1-2 times if required, depending on the absorbency of the wood.&#xA;Drying time:&#xA;Touch-dry and water repellent after 4-6hrs. Re-coatable after 10-12 hours (20 ± 5°C, rel. humidity 45-70%). Coverage: 14-18 m2/500 ml for one treatment ‒ depending on the absorbency of the wood.&#xA;Storage life:&#xA;36 months in unopened factory- sealed container. Storage life of opened container is 12 months, when the container is closed properly. To easily re-open the container again, clean oil out of the sealing rim and sides of the container until it is dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12331" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-07-10T21:44:49.437" LastActivityDate="2022-07-12T17:00:22.640" Title="Tung Oil vs IKEA STOCKARYD" Tags="|finishing|wood|furniture|tabletop|tung-oil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13952" CreationDate="2022-07-10T17:50:00.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes sure, you can use just the Tung oil. 100% Tung oil is food safe once it is dry. It’s what I would choose. You still don’t want to breathe the fumes while it’s drying though, so you should make sure you apply the oil in a well-ventilated space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can lightly hand sand between dried applications. Don’t fuss too much over grit, you just want a gentle roughing of the surface. 2-3 applications is sufficient. You can add more coats in the future depending on how much abuse the table takes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4372" LastEditorUserId="4372" LastEditDate="2022-07-12T17:00:22.640" LastActivityDate="2022-07-12T17:00:22.640" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13947" CreationDate="2022-07-12T18:00:23.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought of going with a knee braces may be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it's not actually the case that this &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; needs to support a lightweight rain roof (you also need to think about wind loading at least&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;) knee braces or corbels would be a good idea for the outlying two horizontals&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as you say you can't do one for the centre, so I think it will be important to tie this central one into the two that will get supports; this way you turn it into a single mutually supporting structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an alternative to tying the central one into the two outliers, since it now seems this backs onto a wall, you might be able to add support from the wall above. Options include adding a wooden strut (sort of like a knee brace in reverse), using chain, or cable threaded through eye bolts. I would be tempted to use two diagonal cables here to help resist racking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a joinery details as that's something I'm trying to figure out here&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to use joinery or any of the (many and varied) designs of metal plates/hangers that are available on the market. Although this isn't actually a binary choice, you could use both systems together. Re. knee braces or corbels don't attempt to reinvent the wheel — find a good design and simply copy it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also re. joinery, if you choose any sort of lap joint (where part or all of the 'joists' lie on top of the lintel/beam) remember to factor in that you gain or lose a little height as a result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With metal hangers, it's tempting to use the minimum recommended number of fasteners to attach these sorts of things, something that is apparently &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; commonly seen in commercial construction&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;. I strongly recommend resisting the urge to save a couple bucks by using fewer screws! Given the design you've chosen and the potential for weather to stress the structure significantly, &lt;strong&gt;you do not want to under-build&lt;/strong&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Possibly also wet leaves and/or snow load if relevant to your location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Note this is still the case even if you do proper old-school joinery to attach them, like a pegged mortise-and-tenon joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Even when they use nails which literally cost pennies!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-07-12T18:00:23.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13947" CreationDate="2022-07-12T20:44:49.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to lay down a lightweight flat rain roof on top of the boards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you add some pitch to the roof you can use the rafters for support instead of adding bracing below, keeping the entire area under the roof open, and the roof will also do a better job shedding water away from the house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's call the vertical members &lt;em&gt;studs&lt;/em&gt; and the horizontal ones &lt;em&gt;joists&lt;/em&gt; to correspond with parts of a building. If you extend the studs up above the joists, you can connect the tops of the studs to the far ends of the joists with &lt;em&gt;rafters&lt;/em&gt; which will support the roof, creating triangles that will be quite strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-07-12T20:44:49.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13956" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-13T00:21:44.407" Score="0" ViewCount="210" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of using exterior polyurethane for my exterior furnishing. I'm planning to use &lt;em&gt;Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane Indoor/Outdoor Wood Finish&lt;/em&gt;. Is this the best one to use or there are better options within its price range?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12281" LastActivityDate="2022-07-13T16:08:19.470" Title="Which is the best exterior polyurethane for furniture?" Tags="|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13956" CreationDate="2022-07-13T16:08:19.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;welcome to the group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some years ago, Fine Woodworking had an article on Door finishes which caught my eye, being in Texas with what seems like a hotter sun than elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others point out, &amp;quot;best&amp;quot; is difficult to assess at times, and maybe not much more than a lot of opinions outside rigorous testing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To shorten the story, you may dig up the article, but their bottom line was using a penetrating epoxy for one or more base coats, then any Spar Varnish or paint if you wanted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me, I refinished my door of three years that had flaking varnish where it had not already sloughed off, using the epoxy (recommended, but no longer available from &lt;strong&gt;that&lt;/strong&gt; company), and a final varnish coat.  I'm just now repeating after 15 years.  (Could be argued I should have done it at 10, but still far longer than the first finish.)  The finish performed far better than any film alone, in my opinion/testing.  Cost is likely cheaper if you factor all your work time, and repeating on a yearly or bi-yearly basis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reasoning, in a nutshell, was given that because the epoxy not only seals the pores of the wood, but also provides a consistent elasticity for a base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of what you choose, I would strongly suggest looking at marine quality products.  Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastActivityDate="2022-07-13T16:08:19.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13961" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13962" CreationDate="2022-07-17T23:43:01.963" Score="1" ViewCount="198" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some small walnut logs I'd like to mill on my 14&amp;quot; bandsaw. (About 300mm diameter, and up to 1 meter long, but able to be cut down into shorter lengths as even at this size they're rather heavy!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For safety, this requires either a sled, or a flat base on the log to avoid it rolling on the bandsaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With only about about 230mm of height available on the saw flattening one side seems like it would flatten the base and reduce the needed height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Previously I've done this with a hand held planer, but now I have available an 8&amp;quot; jointer - is it safe to use the jointer to flatten one side of these logs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen references to people doing this online. e.g:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lumberjocks.com/topics/43666&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.lumberjocks.com/topics/43666&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/threads/can-i-run-split-logs-through-a-planer.135473/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/threads/can-i-run-split-logs-through-a-planer.135473/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But can't find many references to doing it, so am not sure if this is considered safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've considered splitting the logs with a maul first, but the grain in some of them is quite curly so I don't see that going particularly well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can also fall back to the the hand held planer, but that's pretty slow going and doesn't leave a hugely flat surface due to its small size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="282" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-07-18T13:59:59.977" LastActivityDate="2022-07-20T07:19:55.457" Title="Creating a flat on logs to allow bandsaw milling" Tags="|safety|jointer|milling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13961" CreationDate="2022-07-18T01:56:22.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would be helpful to know how small your small logs really are.   The answer to your question really depends on both the diameter and length of the wood you propose to run through the jointer.   But basically, if the logs are small enough that you can control them, the jointer will work fine.   That generally means short enough to be stable on both the infeed and outfeed tables, and small enough in diameter that the weight of the log is easily manageable.  I think your 300mm by 1m walnut logs are probably at the upper limit of what is practical  - even dry, that's 20+kg of wood to wrestle about the jointer, and they won't be fully dry by any means.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest some caution though, if the logs are very wet.   Jointers are not designed for milling wet lumber, and you could experience problems with chip clearance, and of course you'll want to thoroughly clean the machine after, as wet wood will promote rust throughout the machine.   Same is true for the bandsaw - a blade with set that is perfect for kiln dried lumber will struggle, bind and overheat in wet timber.  That said, I have run many small logs through a jointer as prep for sawing them on the bandsaw.   Works well, and if the log isn't overly large, you can reliably joint two sides at right angles to get a billet that is ready for straight slabbing on the saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11864" LastEditorUserId="11864" LastEditDate="2022-07-18T13:35:04.953" LastActivityDate="2022-07-18T13:35:04.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13961" CreationDate="2022-07-18T13:56:52.040" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is it safe to use the jointer to flatten one side of these logs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Safe for the operator I would say so, but for the jointer less so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to worries about the moisture level in the wood and its potential for kickstarting rust formation on and especially inside the jointer, the first reservation I would have is all that bark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bark isn't normally tougher than wood, generally power tools go through it almost like it's not even there, but it can (and IME &lt;em&gt;frequently&lt;/em&gt; does) have microscopic grit in it&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, which is a potential knicking hazard for your jointer knives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While minor knicks in conventional jointer knives aren't the end of the world, obviously you want to minimise the chance of knicking them if you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for this reason alone I think it would be worth removing some or all of the bark before you ran them over the jointer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following video on Nick Engler's channel, Workshop Companion, shows this as part of the prep steps for bandsaw milling (although not because of grit) and shows a very simple and commonsense way of approaching this task so I rate it highly.... with a minor reservation for his pronunciation of winding sticks — it's &lt;em&gt;wind&lt;/em&gt; as in clock, not wind as in breezy :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bfmCV7qKtGk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Band Saw Lumber-- Sawing Firewood into Usable Boards.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For safety, this requires either a sled, or a flat base on the log to avoid it rolling on the bandsaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you will be making a flat that allows the logs to pass over the bandsaw's bed a jig of some sort is no longer a necessity, but you might wish to create one anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a sled that's just a smidge more elaborate than the jig Nick Engler shows see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3979/what-tools-could-i-use-to-cut-a-turned-chair-leg-in-half-vertically/3983#3983&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt; for two (of the many) sleds people have come up with over the years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note on blade choice for the bandsaw&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Remember once you get going this becomes a resawing operation, which is already challenging for a bandsaw if it's not fitted with a suitable blade for deep ripping. If you don't have a low-TPI (5 max?) or skip-tooth blade fitted you &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; take it slowly to allow for waste clearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also remember the wood is likely quite damp in the interior so waste clearance will be even more of a problem than it is normally. You may find you need to open up the saw periodically and clean sticky sawdust from the interior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can also fall back to the the hand held planer, but that's pretty slow going&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if it's relevant at this point in the Answer, but just to have it said walnut is an easy-working hardwood, and even if fully air-dried at this point&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; would be even nicer compared to the more typical kiln-dried stuff most of us are now used to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So just hand-planing (using the appropriate type of plane) is definitely a viable option. With a hand planer it'll be faster&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; and certainly a lot less sweat equity will be involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, even accounting for both of the above &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; the removal of some of the bark further reducing the amount of wood that needs to be taken off the first tool I would reach for would be a saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A decent bucksaw would arguably be the ideal choice here, but in terms of workshop saws a large rip saw or a modern hardened-tooth utility saw could also make quick work of sawing off the bulk of the waste&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt;. After that all that's needed is to smooth and flatten this surface just enough to allow you to proceed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and doesn't leave a hugely flat surface due to it's small size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worth pointing out I think that this is a technique thing. While it's certainly easier to create a flat surface with something longer (that's why longer planes exist after all) if you had to you could create a dead-flat surface with a block plane, using the appropriate technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Note that this is &lt;em&gt;even if the logs have never been on the ground&lt;/em&gt;; if they have at any point lain on the ground some embedded grit should be taken as a certainty, not a possibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Very unlikely given it's only been a couple of years and using the 'one year per inch of thickness' rule of thumb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Possibly not quite as much as one might think, given the ideal hand planes for this work will have irons that have pronounced cambers so are capable of really hogging off material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt; Although either type will benefit from regular lubrication with wax or oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-07-18T13:56:52.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13964" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13966" CreationDate="2022-07-19T08:51:18.337" Score="1" ViewCount="233" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What i have&lt;/strong&gt;:&#xA;An almost square slab from the centre of a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Azadirachta_indica&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Neem tree&lt;/a&gt; trunk, with dimensions 30&amp;quot; x 29&amp;quot; x 1.5&amp;quot;, with it's bark along the width dimension. As the slab is from the centre of the tree, it's cracking along the core at the centre of the growth rings. It's cut square at the top and bottom so it is able to stand up straight, and has no appreciable twisting.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hGzK7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hGzK7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The slab, slightly sanded, with the wide side of the crack at the bottom&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GhANA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GhANA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;One end grain, showing the core&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qvD2j.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qvD2j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Other side of the slab, slightly sanded, containing an embedded nail grown over&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;What I'm planning&lt;/strong&gt;: I'll be using the 2 halves (after breaking the slab along the cracked core) as legs for a slab work table, with a couple of additional supports to stabilize the whole structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I want to know&lt;/strong&gt;: How do I identify which end of the slab was towards the root and which end is towards the crown of the tree?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why&lt;/strong&gt;: I remember reading something about keeping vertical pieces of wood aligned such that the root end should be down and the crown end towards the top (don't remember the source, so no reference unfortunately).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no knowledge of woodworking terminology, so please let me know if I have stated anything incorrectly or if anything is unclear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New pics of the slab, with some sanding done using a 5&amp;quot; sanding disk attachment on a Bosch rotary grinder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One side has a metal nail in it , embedded in the tree, and the cut mark  where the resawing machine had issues cutting through the nail can be seen across the whole slab.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;del&gt;I have another 45 inch section of the slab (it's at the wood shop, to be delivered with a few other bigger purchases). When it's delivered, I'll add a picture of the 2 sections together, which should hopefully give a better idea.&lt;/del&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It might be possible to figure it out with the orientation of knots (branch points) pointing upwards towards the crown, which I'll check on when the rest arrives but this section does not seem to have any.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12361" LastEditorUserId="12361" LastEditDate="2022-07-20T17:53:34.630" LastActivityDate="2022-07-20T17:53:34.630" Title="Identifying the Crown and Root Ends of a Slab of wood" Tags="|wood-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13964" CreationDate="2022-07-19T12:41:07.563" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I want to know:&lt;/strong&gt; How do I identify which side of the slab was towards the root and which side is towards the crown of the tree?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think there's any reliable way of doing this in all cases. There &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; tips about how, but so much depends on the wood that the reality is you can't always tell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why:&lt;/strong&gt; I remember reading something about keeping vertical pieces of wood aligned such that the root side should be down and the crown side towards the top (don't remember the source, so no reference unfortunately).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't worry about the lack of a source because the context may have been (is likely to have been&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;) different. Here it doesn't apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For furniture work, and actually much outside this, as a rule not only do people not even attempt to orient boards this way but frequently boards are oriented on a &lt;em&gt;purely visual basis&lt;/em&gt;. So you might deliberately flip some boards end for end, meaning some end up 'upside down', because you want a specific grain pattern in the assembled piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Where you may have read about ensuring this orientation is for exterior siding or fenceboards where it has an effect on long-term weathering, &lt;a href=&quot;https://nakamotoforestry.com/installing-wood-siding-plank-grain-direction/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt;. I want to highlight however that the term &amp;quot;shou sugi ban&amp;quot; is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/finishing/yakisugi/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;now known not to be correct&lt;/a&gt;, although given the difficulty in eradicating mistakes in terminology I doubt we'll see it disappear any time soon!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-07-19T16:50:52.543" LastActivityDate="2022-07-19T16:50:52.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13964" CreationDate="2022-07-19T17:12:38.933" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, for your application, it makes absolutely no difference, unless the esthetics of one orientation or other is superior, which way you use the wood.   Structurally, and in terms of machining for construction, the crown/root orientation makes absolutely no difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, in your picture, I am highly certain that the crown end up is up.   You can generally (and I mean generally, not always) tell in a slab by noting the orientation of branch roots embedded in the wood.   In this case, there are three of them very near the pith at the top of your slab.   Note in particular the bottom one.   The knot has a comet-tail like appendage winding down in the slab, sightly toward the pith.   This is the branch root.   On nearly all angiosperm tree species, branch roots are long and with relatively gentler curves toward the root, and shorter with more acute curves toward the crown.   Plus, and fairly diagnostically, when a branch is removed, there are changes in the wood of the branch root relative to the still &amp;quot;live&amp;quot; wood that surrounds it.   Often this results in discoloration ranging from dramatic darkening, to more subtle shading.   You can see this fairly clearly in the third branch root in your slab.   Such discoloration rarely spreads far upwards, but often affects the entire branch root in the direction of the root.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not foolproof - you have to discernable branch roots to work from, to start with, and it's not unheard of for a branch to grow uncharacteristically and give no or ambiguous symbols.   But it's pretty rare, and you've clearly got a piece of bole that grew straight and shed it's early branches normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11864" LastEditorUserId="11864" LastEditDate="2022-07-20T13:32:30.640" LastActivityDate="2022-07-20T13:32:30.640" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13961" CreationDate="2022-07-20T07:19:55.457" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For safety, this requires either a sled, or a flat base on the log to avoid it rolling on the bandsaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a sled to hold the log safely while you cut the first slice, giving you the flat base that you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-07-20T07:19:55.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6258" CreationDate="2022-07-20T17:11:11.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about buy my 1st router...The question is what features, characteristics and quality should a beginner look for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Medium size:&lt;/strong&gt; Routers come in about three sizes: small, medium, and large. The small ones are often called &lt;em&gt;palm&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;trim&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;compact&lt;/em&gt; routers and are small enough to hold in one hand. They're great for lightweight jobs like trimming the edge of plastic laminate flush with the substrate. Large routers have big 3 hp motors and can handle large bits for jobs like raising panels, but they're heavy, expensive, and can be difficult to handle. For your first router, you'll want a medium sized router with a motor between 1.5 and 2.25 hp. Medium-sized routers have enough power to handle most of the jobs you'll ever want to tackle, while still being small enough to be manageable and safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Kit with two bases:&lt;/strong&gt; Most manufacturers offer a kit with a medium sized router, a fixed base, a plunge base, and a carrying case. The case may or may not be important to you, but having both bases expands what you can do with your router. I use the fixed base for most jobs, but the plunge base is useful for making mortises or any other time you want to change the bit depth easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Multiple collets:&lt;/strong&gt; The collet is the part that holds the bit, like the chuck in a drill. Unlike a drill chuck, though, collets are specific to one shank size. In the US, most router bits will have either a 1/4&amp;quot; or a 1/2&amp;quot; shank, and your router should include collets for both sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Router table suitability:&lt;/strong&gt; Some routers lend themselves to use in router tables with features like height adjustment through the base, so that you can install the router in a table and adjust the bit height from above the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dust collection:&lt;/strong&gt; It used to be a given that using a router meant making a huge mess, but modern routers often include reasonably effective dust collection, which reduces the mess and improves visibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reputation:&lt;/strong&gt; Buy a router from a well-known brand like Dewalt, Bosch, Makita, or Milwaukee. You'll find cheaper options on Amazon and at Harbor Freight; it's best to avoid those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Variable speed and soft start:&lt;/strong&gt; A motor spinning up to 25,000 RPM in a fraction of a second generates a good bit of torque, which makes the router jump when you turn it on; soft start ramps up the speed over a little more time and avoids that. Variable speed lets adjust the speed to match the size of the bit that you're using; without variable speed, you'll need an external speed controller in order to use larger bits that shouldn't run at your router's maximum speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-07-20T17:11:11.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13928" CreationDate="2022-07-20T21:40:38.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use Hinges&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that what you planning is something like a ginger bread house, or perhaps a creche.  I further assume that you envision a structure made of panels that are basically flat that will be joined along there edges, and you make no pretense of something being weather-tight..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One solution would be to use hinges with removable pins. When you obtain the hinges make sure the pins are removable. The hinges can be screwed permanently to the panels when you first build the structure, then when you want to dismantle it, you can simply remove the hinge pins. Next time you want to erect the structure, line up the hinges and reinsert the pins, &lt;em&gt;voile&lt;/em&gt; done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2022-07-20T21:40:38.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13970" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-22T02:01:09.370" Score="2" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a loft bed, the post (4x4) will have a notch/lap joint at one end which will have a beam sitting in it.  Wood will be pine or white wood.  The furniture will be painted white (semi-gloss).  I can't figure out the best path forward for painting the lap joint, I think I can:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paint the beam and post all over then attach the two.  This will have two painted surfaces touching anywhere there is contact.  On the plus side there will be no exposed bare wood anywhere, on the negative I somehow have to account for the thickness of the paint in cutting the lap or have it not quite smooth across the joint.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;paint the beam and post but do my best to not paint the area the beam and post meet.  I worry that with this method the &amp;quot;sloop&amp;quot; in the connection between the two (carriage bolt) will make it so it would be pretty hard to be perfectly lined up so some bare wood would be exposed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put it all together then paint.  Not ideal as I have to paint it in place and if it is ever moved I am back to number 2's issue (or if it shifts a little over time).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am leaning towards #1, is there a way to account for the thickness of the paint in cutting the lap?  Maybe it'll be insignificant, given I am a beginner and the lap will be far from perfect anyways.  I am open to other ideas too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12371" LastActivityDate="2022-07-23T17:55:27.850" Title="Painting a half lap/notch joint" Tags="|paint|joints|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13970" CreationDate="2022-07-22T11:17:51.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paint the beam and post all over then attach the two. This will have two painted surfaces touching anywhere there is contact. On the plus side there will be no exposed bare wood anywhere, on the negative I somehow have to account for the thickness of the paint in cutting the lap or have it not quite smooth across the joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you're planning on using bolts to join this is theoretically an option, but as you say it is difficult to allow for the thickness of the paint layer. And even though this isn't intended to be a glue joint (where a very tight fit is normally vital) ideally you do still want it to be tight for structural reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get the fit slightly too tight you'll end up peeling some paint back as you push the parts together; this isn't a problem inside the joint but it can create an ugly roll of paint at the edges which can be difficult to clean up neatly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;paint the beam and post but do my best to not paint the area the beam and post meet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what masking tape is for. Literally :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you worry about having &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; exposed wood you can cut your masks slightly undersize. Alternatively, you could do any necessary touchups later, using a smallish artist's brush or a Q-tip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put it all together then paint. Not ideal as I have to paint it in place...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly I think this is how &amp;gt;95% of people would do it since pre-finishing isn't too common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and if it is ever moved I am back to number 2's issue (or if it shifts a little over time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the joinery is tight enough to begin with there won't be any shift worth noting. The wood may shrink slightly over time but any permanent shrinkage will A) take a long time to occur (possibly decades) and B) could be so slight that it won't make any difference (because the total shrinkage will be so small, due to the dimensions of the pieces). And remember the carriage bolt does auto-align the joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;given I am a beginner and the lap will be far from perfect anyways&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't accept defeat before you've even tried ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lap joints are a great beginner's joint because they are relatively easy to create, and as a result are easy for even novices to achieve a nice tight result... as long as they follow the tips the experts give and take their time. My first half-lap joint, when I had minimal tools and no experience, was tight enough that the two parts had to be squeezed together, because I followed the tips and took it slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just carefully mark out, saw &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; your lines, pare carefully with a chisel &lt;em&gt;and don't rush&lt;/em&gt;, and you should be able to get a pretty decent result on the first one, and each subsequent lap should as good or better. But by all means practice on some scrap before attempting this on the project pieces if you're hesitant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="32" LastEditDate="2022-07-23T17:55:27.850" LastActivityDate="2022-07-23T17:55:27.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13972" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-23T12:41:30.297" Score="2" ViewCount="81" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a vintage Rock'n'Rest chair that has met with an unfortunate perch...a family member sat on the arm and now one of the rear joints is loose.&#xA;It is a mortise &amp;amp; tenon joint and it all appears to be intact inside, it just is loose. It doesn't look like there was any existing glue so I wasn't sure if I should put in some Gorilla Glue or similar? I don't think I should take it all the way apart as all of the other joints are fine. I'm very much a DIY beginner so any advice would be really appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IeYW1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IeYW1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;close-up of loose mortise and tenon&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0iFK5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0iFK5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;side of chair&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12376" LastEditorUserId="32" LastEditDate="2022-07-25T05:21:51.390" LastActivityDate="2022-07-27T06:04:05.533" Title="Chair repair advice" Tags="|wood-repair|joints|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13973" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13974" CreationDate="2022-07-23T15:42:33.647" Score="0" ViewCount="173" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a combined jointer and planer with three knives mounted on a rotating cylinder. Each knife is fastened using five screws. Additionally, two springs are under each knife, pushing it upwards — out of the cylinder. Once I unfasten the screws, the springs pop the knife out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o9C93l.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o9C93l.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know if these springs are there just to make removing the knives easier or if they serve a purpose when the machine is running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am asking because these springs are so strong that they make it difficult to set the knives properly. I really have to push with all my might to keep them in place, so minor adjustments are always a struggle. I am considering removing the springs or replacing them with weaker ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5579" LastActivityDate="2022-07-24T11:16:31.657" Title="Do the springs pushing at a jointer knife do anything useful when the jointer is running?" Tags="|tool-maintenance|jointer|thickness-planer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13973" CreationDate="2022-07-24T11:16:31.657" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do the springs pushing at a jointer knife do anything useful when the jointer is running?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would appear not, as according to many things I've seen and read it's not uncommon for jointers to either deliberately or unknowingly be run without some or all of the springs under the knives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This thread, &lt;a href=&quot;https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?173508-Replacement-Springs-for-Under-Knives-on-Old-Delta-Jointer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Replacement Springs for Under Knives on Old Delta Jointer&lt;/a&gt;, on SawMillCreek might be particularly useful because it covers so many of the possibilities in the various responses — some missing, deliberately taking them out, replacing them with both weaker &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; stronger springs, along with some advice on how to set the knives top-dead-centre without spring tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If your not to picky about tension most Hardware stores have a selection. I replaced mine with a bit more tension on the springs, it just makes a bit harder to keep the knife in the slot while your setting the height.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;On Jointers I've used in the past that had springs under the knives, I always tossed them. I found they make getting a even setting difficult.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The 16&amp;quot; jointer that I used to have did not have springs or jack screws and it was no trouble to set the knives.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-07-24T11:16:31.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13976" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13978" CreationDate="2022-07-26T15:20:22.253" Score="5" ViewCount="2349" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the process of building a board gaming table with a recessed play area and this is one of many things I can't seem to find a consensus on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of the build is still in the early phases, but essentially I'll have a 3.5' x 5' (exact length TBD) recessed play area a couple of inches below the surface of my table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was planning on cutting down a piece of plywood to size and adhering &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; type of cloth/foam surface to it and securing on the backside with staples (exactly what type of surface is also TBD, and hopefully not too relevant to the approach I take). I would be able to lower the playing surface into the recessed area where it would sit snugly. The underside of the table will have boards providing support for this playing surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I be concerned with the type of material I use? Appearance isn't an issue. The only place it'll be visible is from underneath anyway and I don't care if that is ugly. I'm able to get some inexpensive OSB locally, but I wasn't sure if there would be any concerns with adhesives or stapling or anything. I've also seen sheathing and MDF used for this sort of thing, but they both bring my cost up and I'm not sure if they &lt;em&gt;actually&lt;/em&gt; give me any benefit in my case.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is 1/2&amp;quot; thickness what I want? I figured 1/4&amp;quot; would flex a bit during install or if I need to remove it for any reason, not to mention difficult (or impossible?) to staple the material to...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12385" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-07-27T16:06:32.323" LastActivityDate="2022-07-29T07:08:07.843" Title="What type of board material can I use for a gaming table's play area?" Tags="|plywood|table-making|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13976" CreationDate="2022-07-26T16:01:08.650" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that your main requirement is to have the surface smooth and flat so that the covering material is also smooth and flat in turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OSB is not appropriate for this, as it has a rough texture and quite a lot of splinters and protruding pieces of wood that would require a lot of sanding to smoothen out (and would still suffer from not fully glued pieces of wood).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Low grade plywood might work, especially after sanding it. Higher grade plywood would work well for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MDF can also work well for your needs, with the caveat that you already mentioned that it will not hold staples all that well. However, if you also plan to glue the covering material, the staples are not under any significant force and MDF would be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I agree with your intuition about using at least 1/2&amp;quot; sheets. 1/4&amp;quot; does indeed seem to thin for good staple holding (requiring short staples) as well as requiring a lot of support underneath (and still probably feel hollow and cheap).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2022-07-26T16:01:08.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13976" CreationDate="2022-07-26T16:34:00.613" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be concerned with the type of material I use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well as a general rule, always.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Appearance isn't an issue. The only place it'll be visible is from underneath anyway and I don't care if that is ugly. I'm able to get some inexpensive OSB locally, but I wasn't sure if there would be any concerns with adhesives or stapling or anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OSB is strong and at least as dimensionally stable as decent ply. You can glue to it no problem (&lt;strong&gt;note:&lt;/strong&gt; give the surface at least a light sanding) and with the right staples and stapler getting staples into it is similarly not an issue. But that irregular surface might be a problem if you eventually choose to go for a thin covering without cushioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you did finally select felt/baize adhered directly to the surface OSB isn't completely ruled out, but the work needed to get the same dead-flat surface one gets automatically with a sheet of ply or MDF would seem to me to offset any savings in cost (plus the cost of any filler you'd need to buy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is 1/2&amp;quot; thickness what I want?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this would be perfect for this. Many regular plywood users go with 3/4&amp;quot; ply almost exclusively for anything structural, so for this project they'd use it here too. But a part of that is simply because they probably already have a sheet or two handy they can immediately reach for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the additional strength provided by 3/4&amp;quot; is very unlikely to be needed here; with the saving in both cost and weight it's worth going thinner IMO. Both ply and MDF will give essentially a totally flat surface, but unless you have access to better quality MDF (usually not tan/light brown) plywood offers many advantages so I would definitely pick that preferentially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Decent 1/4&amp;quot; plywood isn't so weak you couldn't conceive of using it here (especially because there would be no worries about it sagging under its own weight) but if this piece is to be handled repeatedly I'd want to go thicker just to have a panel that was a little more robust and able to take occasional rough handling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-07-27T16:10:11.400" LastActivityDate="2022-07-27T16:10:11.400" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13976" CreationDate="2022-07-27T05:40:25.303" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should be I be concerned with the type of material I use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be concerned with the qualities that are important to you. Appearance isn't one of those for this project, but there are others:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;flatness:&lt;/strong&gt; I'm sure you'll want the surface to be flat and remain so for a long time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;weight:&lt;/strong&gt; Weight might be a factor if you'll need to move the table, but it can also affect how the table sounds as you throw dice or drop objects onto it. If you want the table to have a solid feel to it, a heavy playing surface will help.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;rigidity/sturdiness:&lt;/strong&gt; Similar to weight; a thicker, more rigid surface will make the table feel more solid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is 1/2&amp;quot; thickness what I want?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I'd go with 3/4&amp;quot; material. I like the weight and stability of MDF for something like this, but plywood or even melamine-coated particle board could work. But you could certainly choose 1/2&amp;quot; material and look for ways to keep it flat and make it feel more solid. For example, you could attach it to the table by screwing through the support boards into the bottom of the game surface. Or, since you'll probably buy a 4'x8' sheet of whatever material you choose, you could cut strips from what's left and glue them to the back, effectively making it twice as thick and much more rigid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-07-27T05:40:25.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13972" CreationDate="2022-07-27T06:04:05.533" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm very much a DIY beginner so any advice would be really appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to keep that chair in good working condition, take it to a professional furniture restorer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't look like there was any existing glue&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a mortise and tenon joint, the glue is applied to the tenon and the inside of the mortise. It's not usually applied to the part of the joint that you can see without taking the joint apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so I wasn't sure if I should put in some Gorilla Glue or similar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't do that. In most chairs, this one included, the connection between the rails and the rear legs has to be very strong. As Ashlar explained in a comment, just adding a little glue to the part of the joint that you can see isn't going to provide the necessary strength. Also, right now that tenon has nice clean shoulders, and once repaired, the joint will fit back together tightly. If you add glue there, that glue will eventually have to be removed to get a good fit again.rock.n.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Somebody with experience is really going to need to take the joint apart (which will also mean taking the corresponding joint on the other side apart). They'll then look at the mating surfaces to see whether they can be reglued. Often, when a joint like this breaks, it's the wood that breaks, not the glue, so the joint might need more repair than just scraping off the old glue, adding new glue, and sticking it back together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-07-27T06:04:05.533" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13976" CreationDate="2022-07-27T08:03:52.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I once built some gaming boards for friends.  I built them out of OSB.  The material worked well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used 1/2&amp;quot; material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sanded each down by hand, but a power sander would work fine too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After sanding, I used a shop vacuum to remove the dust, followed by a tack cloth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using spray adhesive, I then covered one with felt and the other with velvet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For support during construction and for use afterwards, I used sawhorses.  This allowed each table to be quickly disassembled for transportation or storage aside a wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both tables worked well.  Personally, I liked the velvet-covered one a bit more.  Plus, velvet comes in a wider range of colours than felt, which gives you more choices for personalisation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your friends are Cheetos aficionados, I recommend additional sanding, and then sealing and staining the boards instead of covering them.  Cheetos and felt make a bad combination; Cheetos and velvet isn't as bad, but you probably don't want to spend your time regularly exfiltrating the Cheetos dust from your nice table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1417" LastEditorUserId="1417" LastEditDate="2022-07-29T07:08:07.843" LastActivityDate="2022-07-29T07:08:07.843" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13982" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13984" CreationDate="2022-07-27T12:35:32.940" Score="1" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;I realized that even though the edges of each knife are parallel to the outfeed table, the drum holding these knives isn't. The difference in vertical gaps between the barrel and the table is about 0.5 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that I somehow compensated for this when I set the knives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can such a setup cause problems?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J5anrl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J5anrl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was working like this for quite some time, but I noticed that my knives chipped and dullened faster than usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a parallelogram jointer thicknesser &lt;code&gt;Proma HP-250 3-400&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cylinder diameter is the same on both ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The infeed and outfeed tables are as parallel as I was able to set them. The difference in gap is the same for infeed table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5579" LastEditorUserId="5579" LastEditDate="2022-07-27T17:39:59.633" LastActivityDate="2022-07-27T19:11:35.170" Title="Does the outfeed table have to be parallel with the rotating drum?" Tags="|tool-maintenance|jointer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13983" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13986" CreationDate="2022-07-27T12:48:50.987" Score="2" ViewCount="372" Body="&lt;p&gt;The saw disc on my &lt;code&gt;KDR 103 N&lt;/code&gt; tablesaw looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w2l8Bl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w2l8Bl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can hopefully see, there is a big hexagonal nut. Inside there is an Allen bolt opening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inside of this Allen bolt is something surprisingly resembling yet another, smaller, Allen bolt opening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o4c3F.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o4c3F.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is the purpose of this bolt?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot turn the hex nut even when using a lever on the wrench. Likewise, the Allen bolt seems to be at least very hard to unfasten. I haven't used force on it yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/euWg6l.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/euWg6l.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, the Allen bolt is not even in the schematic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5579" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2022-07-28T12:06:46.267" LastActivityDate="2022-08-03T00:11:00.767" Title="How to remove a table saw blade held in with a hex nut and Allen bolt?" Tags="|table-saw|tool-maintenance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13982" CreationDate="2022-07-27T18:59:57.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your machine is neither a parallelogram nor a dovetail jointer in the sense we understand the terms in the US.   No matter.   The key thing is that your procedure for adjusting the tables needs to start with making the infeed table parallel to the cutterhead axis.   I believe this is done with a stop on the right hand casting against which the jointer table rests when in the down position.  On many single purpose jointers, it must be done by shimming the bearing blocks for the cutterhead, but I don't believe that's right, or even possible on your combination machine.   As I don't read Czech, I can't be absolutely certain.  Once the infeed and cutterhead are parallel, then you adjust the outfeed table to parallel or co-planarity with the infeed table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As your machine is now adjusted, your cutterhead is acting like a helical cutterhead with a very steep helix angle, and a single, long cutter that is straight-edged, instead of having the right curve to cut straight.   For narrow cuts (edge jointing) this will not make much difference, but for wide cuts, the blades are going to be cutting somewhat deeper in the center of the cut, and overall, I believe you will not be getting a truly flat result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11864" LastEditorUserId="11864" LastEditDate="2022-07-27T19:11:35.170" LastActivityDate="2022-07-27T19:11:35.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13983" CreationDate="2022-07-28T18:23:14.693" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know for certain what you're seeing, so take the first part of this answer as a hypothesis, not as definitive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, I don't think there is any hex screw, as such.  I think someone has bored out the end of the orginal arbor, and broached a hex recess into it, probably, as suggested by commenter @Freeman, to use as an arbor lock when removing the blade retention nut.  I have no idea what the torx shaped recess in the metal at the bottom of the hex recess is about.   It's off-center, badly machined, and brazed.   Some kind of poorly executed hack related to the hex recess, but I don't know what the intention was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am reasonably confident though, that the hex recess is in the actual arbor, and not an extraneous screw, because the the blade flange and retention nut appear to be original, and the arbor would actually extend roughly as far as the picture shows beyond a properly installed blade, flange and nut.   Some evidence of the shenanigans the hacker got up to is apparent in the picture.   There are horizontal file marks on the arbor end, e.g., and the hex recess shows clear deformation at the corners.  One suspects that the process of broaching the recess raised burrs on the arbor end, and the hacker filed them off.   A machined shaft end would not contain horizontal machining marks, but, if any, circular concentric marks from facing off on a lathe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for removing the blade retention nut, I would take this as a typical frozen nut problem.   Your tools for getting it loose are penetrating lubricant, heat, and high-impulse torque (impact, in other words).  First, as suggested by @Graphus, do be certain you're loosening in the proper direction (clockwise as you face the arbor end, in the case of your particular saw).    Second, immobilize the arbor as firmly as you can (you must already have done this in your attempts to loosen the nut).   I would then try impact.    If you can get an impact driver on the nut, do that.   Otherwise, use a well fitted box-end wrench and a large diameter punch.    Put the wrench on the nut, and use a hammer and the punch to apply sharp blows to the wrench 5 or so centimeters from the arbor center.   This should release the nut.   If it doesn't apply mild heat using a gas torch, as much as possible to the nut only (be sure to thoroughly clean away flammable sawdust and other materials first, of course).    Then try the impact again.   If still no love, heat again, and apply a penetrating lubricant after heating the nut to the shaft.   Wait and try impact again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all these methods fail, then I'd get a die grinder (dremel will do fine), and grind a slot in the nut to split it.   Open the slot with a cold chisel, but apply the splitting force parallel to the arbor shaft, not perpendicular.   You don't want to hose your bearings, or put runout into the arbor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11864" LastEditorUserId="11864" LastEditDate="2022-07-28T21:26:22.250" LastActivityDate="2022-07-28T21:26:22.250" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13987" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-29T03:36:27.587" Score="0" ViewCount="376" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to create a panel that is about 24&amp;quot; square and about 1.5&amp;quot; thick and I want it to be dimensionally stable and not prone to splitting or warping. The material will probably be oak. What is the general pattern to approach the lay up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-07-29T04:20:04.223" LastActivityDate="2022-07-29T06:03:17.170" Title="How to make a dimensionally stable panel using hardwood?" Tags="|wood-movement|panel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13987" CreationDate="2022-07-29T05:20:33.737" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't create a dimensionally stable panel in solid wood under normal circumstances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is because wood naturally responds to changes in humidity by changing EMC. The length will remain effectively unchanged; thickness too (but only because that dimension is so small any changes due to moisture takeup and loss are small enough they're hard to measure). Width on the other hand &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; continually vary (but see footnote 2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No guesswork is needed for how much the width might change, you can calculate the expected movement in service for oak, and alternative hardwoods, for your location using tables published online. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3441/what-is-the-maximum-width-for-a-full-cross-grain-glue-up/3533#3533&quot;&gt;What is the maximum width for a full cross grain glue up?&lt;/a&gt; These tables use data usually derived from figures published by the FPL, go directly to the source for coefficients of movement for all commercially important US domestic woods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the data will suggest, you could almost ignore movement if you select the right species and with the correct grain orientation. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5871/which-direction-does-wood-expand/5877#5877&quot;&gt;which direction does wood expand?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to selecting for minimal movement with quarter- or rift-sawn boards (do note the issue with oak in regards to the sometimes extreme figure in QS material however) you can minimise wood movement with species selection, although availability and cost are definitely practical considerations now, due to Covid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/908/what-general-considerations-do-i-need-to-take-into-account-for-wood-movement/910#910&quot;&gt;What general considerations do I need to take into account for wood movement?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3441/what-is-the-maximum-width-for-a-full-cross-grain-glue-up/3533#3533&quot;&gt;What is the maximum width for a full cross grain glue up?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;splitting or warping&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Splitting or warping are separate issues to dimensional stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless the wood chosen is unsuitable (e.g. too wet before use, or badly dried) it should not split in service, same as almost any tabletop or cabinet panel would not normally be expected to split.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Warping can be similar, in that with good stock selection you help ensure, or at least minimise, the potential for any of the boards that make up the panel to contribute to a specific type of warp. Once a panel is made however it starts to act like a single board to a degree, and there's always the potential for cupping if one side can dry more than the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But circumstances and use are factors, &lt;em&gt;especially&lt;/em&gt; over the long term.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How the wood with be fixtured to (as in a tabletop), or held by (as in a floating panel), whatever else it needs to interact with.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it's intended to be free-floating or nearly so, stiffeners can be installed on the back if felt necessary. In the past this was often achieved with cross-grain stiffening strips (battens) running in dovetailed slots&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. Now steel C-channel might be used for the same purpose and if installed correctly the resulting panel can remain the same thickness, a trick harder to achieve historically.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Whether the wood will be finished and with what, and to what thickness&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; This is one of the classic ways drawing boards were built to stay flat prior to the widespread use of plywood&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Coat any wood in a thick enough application of &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; film finish and moisture uptake and loss can be reduced to almost zero. But this 'encased' look isn't to every taste and isn't suitable for many applications anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-07-29T05:20:33.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13987" CreationDate="2022-07-29T05:28:21.677" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the general pattern to approach the lay up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slice your boards into thin veneers and glue the veneers up in a stack, with the grain of each layer at 90° to the layer below it. Put the stack in a press to cure under pressure. Trim the edges and cut to final size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, you're probably not &lt;em&gt;actually&lt;/em&gt; going to make your own plywood, but that's how you get dimensional stability. Solid wood panels expand and contract with changes in humidity, and there's not much you can do to stop it short of controlling the humidity. Allowing for seasonal movement is an important consideration whenever you're making something out of solid wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you want a panel that looks like it's solid hardwood, make it out of plywood (or another stable substrate such as MDF), and then wrap the panel in thin pieces of hardwood. Be sure to use end grain pieces where the ends of the boards making the panel would be, edge grain on the other sides, and face grain for the pieces. If you do it carefully, you should be able to hide the joints pretty almost entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Up to this point, I've understood your use of &lt;em&gt;panel&lt;/em&gt; to mean a flat piece of wood with no moving parts, but maybe you just mean that you want a 24&amp;quot; square thing made of wood, and you're OK with letting some parts move. In that case, a traditional approach would be to use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frame_and_panel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;frame and panel&lt;/a&gt; design, where a solid panel &amp;quot;floats&amp;quot; inside a frame that has enough room for the panel to move seasonally. Since the frame is made up of narrow parts, it's relatively stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another method would be to not glue the boards making up the panel together, and to hold the panel together with e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/joinery/breadboard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;breadboard ends&lt;/a&gt;. Usually, breadboard ends are pinned in the middle and the panel is allowed to expand and contract at the edges. However, if you use joinery like lap joints, tongue and groove, or spline joints, and if you don't glue them, and you leave enough space for seasonal movement, you could pin the breadboard ends at the ends so that the panel's width stays the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2022-07-29T06:03:17.170" LastActivityDate="2022-07-29T06:03:17.170" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13990" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-30T15:56:05.197" Score="-1" ViewCount="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanted to buy two more sets of black pipe clamps for 1&amp;quot; pipe, don't see them available now! Has 3/4&amp;quot; black pipe replaced the older 1&amp;quot; ??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12392" LastEditorUserId="32" LastEditDate="2022-08-02T13:35:04.950" LastActivityDate="2022-08-02T13:47:04.787" Title="Pipe clamps - availability of 1&quot; black pipe" Tags="|clamps|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9704" CreationDate="2022-07-30T19:24:31.580" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently trying mineral oil. On an experimental piece it looks amazing. I imagine I would do 2 coats minimum and expect to redo this every year unless I find its durability proves better. Admittedly for cutting boards where it is most popular, exposure to water and soaps gives it a very limited life span. Structurally I would expect it to be more durable than anyone might think because of its industrial applications. The only unknown is its UV protection. Ask me for in a year after a harsh Canadian winter and wet spring. I do suspect, because of the lack of info, it may represent a true competitor to traditional oils for exterior use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12393" LastActivityDate="2022-07-30T19:24:31.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13992" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13994" CreationDate="2022-07-31T01:07:30.683" Score="0" ViewCount="2384" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to cut 2 squares into wood about 1&amp;quot; deep using this template:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GaeH1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GaeH1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using a tiny Dremel cutter bit and it's not very effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x4zsl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x4zsl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought maybe a jigsaw, but I don't want to cut all the way through the wood.  Only about 1&amp;quot; or so deep into 2&amp;quot; wood.  Then I could chisel the rest out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Dremel 4300 with the router attachment.  Though without a guide I think I'd have a tough time doing this with the router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have a Craftsman router with a table. I'm not great with a router.  I've used it a few times over the years and it's been a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an easier way to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12394" LastEditorUserId="12394" LastEditDate="2022-07-31T01:14:59.217" LastActivityDate="2022-07-31T23:01:06.307" Title="How to cut a square hole about 1&quot; deep into the wood" Tags="|cutting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13992" CreationDate="2022-07-31T14:41:30.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easy way would be to use a router with a template and a guide bushing. But if you’re going to use the Dremel, a few things that’ll help are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use an appropriate bit. The one you’re showing looks like it’s meant for carving. You need something like a 1/4” or 1/8 straight routing bit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don’t try to do the full 1” depth in one go. Remove the material in layers, maybe 1/4” at a time, depending on what the tool can handle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don’t try to hand-hold the Dremel — put it in the router base. This will make it much easier to control since you’ll only have two dimensions to worry about instead of three.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a straight edge of some sort to guide the base of the router. This will further reduce the ways the base can move, making it even easier to control. Move the guide as needed to get straight edges on all 4 sides of your hole.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the sides of the hole defined, nibble away at the material in the middle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-07-31T14:41:30.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13992" CreationDate="2022-07-31T15:16:59.257" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Square holes in wood are &lt;strong&gt;mortises&lt;/strong&gt;. We call them that even if it's not part of a mortise-and-tenon joint, hence &amp;quot;chiselling out the mortise for a lock&amp;quot; and other references you'll come across.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an easier way to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heck yeah.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hand tools&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Chisel and mallet/hammer if you want to do it completely old school. It's no joke to say you'd have been ~1/3 of the way there before you'd finished typing your Question if you'd chosen this route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since many beginners and learners find chiselling directly into wood a bit intimidating&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; you can instead drill out the bulk of the waste (with an actual drill bit, not a ball burr!) and then chisel out the periphery — basically just paring back to your layout lines. This is the way many modern woodworkers would do it, including many pros who are largely self-taught (esp. from Internet sources)&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Router&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You can create perfect, and repeatable, square mortises (with rounded corners) using a power router IF you have a suitable bit and &lt;em&gt;after you've made a template&lt;/em&gt;. Since the making of the template would take some time, and you only have two of these to do it doesn't seem like an efficient use of time but it's certainly possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you can plunge, even with bits that aren't built specifically for it, it's no harm to drill an access hole to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the routing only the rounded corners would need to be tidied up with a chisel since the flat sides will be perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Using the Dremel&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You can actually do this fairly well with a Dremel-type drill if it has decent power, but there are far better bits for the purpose than the one pictured. Fairly large (by Dremel standards) and coarse HSS or solid carbide burrs with large flutes are the kind of thing you want to use here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But again you want to drill at least one hole to start with, so you can mill &lt;em&gt;sideways&lt;/em&gt; — burr bits don't cut well on the push because the speed of the cutting edges reduces as you get closer to the axis. All burrs cut best on their periphery, where speed is highest, so they're best used side to side instead of in and out (particularly for deep holes in tougher material).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course you'll still finish with a chisel as you indicate in the Question you were already planning on doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; But shouldn't. A good look at various solid descriptions and/or demonstrations of the method will show how effective it is and with only a little practice it should be easy to get over the phobia. And that's one more skill under your belt :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Formally trained pros would probably only use this method for very deep and large mortises, especially in oak or any species harder than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-07-31T23:01:06.307" LastActivityDate="2022-07-31T23:01:06.307" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13996" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13997" CreationDate="2022-08-02T12:15:24.950" Score="2" ViewCount="542" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am setting up a workshop in a small space. Unfortunately it is not really large enough for every tool and machine I would like. In the near future I intend to do a lot of work with sheet materials so a table saw is quite high up on the list of things I'd like - but it would mean other tools might not be given a permanent installation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, can a table saw with a parallel fence, cross cut fence and mitre gauge do all of the jobs a dual bevel mitre saw can - even if it may not be able to do some of those jobs as quick?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7922" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2022-08-02T19:01:47.580" LastActivityDate="2022-08-04T03:55:39.200" Title="Is there anything a dual bevel mitre saw can do that a table saw can not?" Tags="|table-saw|miter-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13996" CreationDate="2022-08-02T13:24:50.127" Score="10" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;can a table saw with a parallel fence, cross cut fence and mitre gauge do all of the jobs a dual bevel mitre saw can&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're different tools that do different jobs. A table saw can cut the same range of angles that aa miter saw can, including compound angles, but trying to cut the end of an 8' or 10' piece of moulding is very awkward on a table saw using just a miter gauge. It's easier if your table saw is equipped with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.harveywoodworking.com/products/compass-st-1500-sliding-table&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;sliding table&lt;/a&gt;, but still not as easy or as accurate as a miter saw in a station that provides plenty of support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A second difference is that you can easily move a miter saw to where the work is, but table saws other than small &amp;quot;job site&amp;quot; saws are usually too big and heavy to take to the work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're trying to decide between the two tools, or wondering whether you need both, think about the kind of work that you do. If you're cutting lots of long, narrow pieces, a miter saw would be a great tool. So if you plan to install a lot of moulding, lay a hardwood floor, or build a cedar strip canoe or kayak, you'll probably want a miter saw. A good policy is to buy a tool when you need it; for general woodworking, you might want to buy a table saw now, and buy a miter saw when the need arises.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2022-08-02T19:02:48.003" LastActivityDate="2022-08-02T19:02:48.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13990" CreationDate="2022-08-02T13:47:04.787" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has 3/4&amp;quot; black pipe replaced the older 1&amp;quot; ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that the size of pipe (in the US, at least) is determined by it's &lt;em&gt;inside diameter&lt;/em&gt;. Nominal 3/4&amp;quot; black iron pipe has an outside diameter of about 1&amp;quot;, and will fit in clamp heads meant for 3/4&amp;quot; pipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think I've ever seen clamp heads for nominal 1&amp;quot; pipe. That's not to say that they don't exist, but 3/4&amp;quot; and 1/2&amp;quot; have been the two sizes commonly used for pipe clamps in the US for at least 25 years and probably longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-08-02T13:47:04.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13983" CreationDate="2022-08-02T14:29:12.403" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It turns out the solution was to rotate the Allen bolt in a clockwise direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found the solution by following @WalnutClose's awesome &amp;quot;frozen nut escalation ladder&amp;quot;. I got to the point where I tried several different lubricants and the one that did the trick was something that I don't know how to translate. In Slovak it is 'petrolej', which is machine translated to 'coal oil' or 'kerosine'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the nut finally gave way, I realized that it has no threads at all and that I just indirectly unfastened the Allen bolt, by unfastening the nut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/523Knl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/523Knl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QxGapl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QxGapl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YD8fRl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YD8fRl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5579" LastEditorUserId="5579" LastEditDate="2022-08-03T00:11:00.767" LastActivityDate="2022-08-03T00:11:00.767" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14000" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-02T19:21:27.623" Score="3" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a very large desk which has kind of a post-and-beam base construction. Since the desk is L-shaped, and roughly 5'x7', there are a couple of places where three beams come together at a corner; the vertical post, and the two cross beams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been brainstorming ways that I can make a fairly stable and rack-resistant base that I can also disassemble and move, since it is too large to move fully assembled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the design I came up with: A stub tenon with a threaded insert, and offset holes (in the vertical-axis) so that they are non-overlapping. I've mocked it here w/ 5/16&amp;quot; bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the desk top is attached, the frame is rigid in the horizontal plane (because it is constrained by the top itself). I am more concerned with racking side to side in the vertical planes, and I am not sure the single bolt/stub tenon is enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nFArw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nFArw.png&quot; alt=&quot;Three-Post Joint mock up&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, the vertical post is 3&amp;quot; square, the cross beams are 2&amp;quot;x3&amp;quot; (mostly for looks). Tenons are drawn as 0.5&amp;quot; long. Through Holes are counterbored for a 5/16&amp;quot; furniture bolt. Tennons are drilled for a threaded insert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12405" LastActivityDate="2022-08-03T18:33:54.620" Title="Is this knockdown three-post joint resistant to racking?" Tags="|joinery|mortise-and-tenon|knockdown|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14000" CreationDate="2022-08-02T19:52:32.870" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Individually, they are not particularly resistant to racking.   The stub tenons do nothing to control racking in the plane of the respective stringers, and the bolts won't hold against the leverage of the legs.   Assembled as a unit, however, if the mortices and tenons fit snugly, these will be quite solid, because each direction gets substantial racking resistance from the tenon on the stringer orthogonal to it.   For this reason, I would make the mortices deeper than 1/2&amp;quot;.   If you make the mortices and tenons 3/4&amp;quot;, you can easily make the them 1 or 1 1/8&amp;quot; deep, which will greatly improve their orthogonal holding power.   With a 1/4&amp;quot; 20 threaded insert, a 3/4&amp;quot; tenon should have adequate holding power.   I would screw the inserts in before cutting the tenon cheeks, however, or failing that, clamp the tenon sides tightly when screwing in the insert, so as to support the tenon sides.   You might also consider burying the insert in the stringer itself, with a clearance hole in the tenon.  (All these suggestions to prevent the insert from blowing out your tenon, which it's going want to do during in installation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11864" LastEditorUserId="11864" LastEditDate="2022-08-02T20:39:35.807" LastActivityDate="2022-08-02T20:39:35.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14000" CreationDate="2022-08-03T18:33:54.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been brainstorming ways that I can make a fairly stable and rack-resistant base that I can also disassemble and move, since it is too large to move fully assembled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taller rails would help a lot. If you make them 6&amp;quot; or 9&amp;quot; tall instead of 3&amp;quot;, and use two bolts each instead of one, they'll be much stronger. You don't need that full height along their entire span, just where they connect to the leg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Connecting the legs with stretchers will also help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A stub tenon with a threaded insert&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Threaded inserts are great, but nuts with washers will spread the load over a larger area. Drill the holes into the rails as you had planned, but go deeper -- maybe 4&amp;quot; or so. Rout a recess into he inside face of the rails that will intersect the hole, and secure the bolt coming from the leg with a nut and a thick flat washer. You'll want a washer under the head of the bolt for the same reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-08-03T18:33:54.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14004" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-05T01:18:17.753" Score="1" ViewCount="323" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve made a 5/4” x 36” x92” maple tabletop for a family member.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They won’t be able to pick it up for a month, possibly more. Normally I store all my wood horizontally however this takes up too much room storing it for a long time flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both sides are unfinished. It will be leaning on the inside of an outer garage wall. And there's not much air circulation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will I create problems if I store vertically instead of horizontally until they can pick it up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12416" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-08-06T07:36:00.760" LastActivityDate="2022-08-06T07:36:00.760" Title="Safe to store a tabletop vertically?" Tags="|storage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14004" CreationDate="2022-08-05T22:34:49.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am assuming your table top is glued-up long planks, with or without appropriately attached bread board ends. If that is the case, and it is actually vertical, or reasonably close to vertical, and you can store it so that you have equal air flow on both sides, you can store it that way indefinitely.    5/4&amp;quot; maple is plenty stiff, so it's not going to bend or warp from the storage position &lt;em&gt;per se,&lt;/em&gt;  even with a little lean in it.   But if you store so that it breaths significantly differently on the two sides, then you are at real risk of trouble, as the boards that are not absolutely straight grain are likely to cup from differential moisture movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11864" LastActivityDate="2022-08-05T22:34:49.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14008" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-06T04:06:26.493" Score="2" ViewCount="831" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a finished oak board, and I'm buying metal legs so it can be used as an end table. The legs will be secured with screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If later we want to replace the legs, and the holes end up in the same places, it means most likely the screws won't have a secure hold since the holes have already been used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be a solution to this? Basically, how to reuse holes in wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking if there are something like a fastener for wood, that I can drill, install the plastic/metal anchors and be able to reuse the holes a few times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12423" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-08-08T17:15:49.597" LastActivityDate="2022-08-10T19:27:07.667" Title="Reuse screw holes in wood [oak]" Tags="|wood-repair|screws|fasteners|holes|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14004" CreationDate="2022-08-06T07:32:55.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the additional details then you do need to take some precautions to help ensure this doesn't warp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's little to no risk of your tabletop &lt;em&gt;bowing&lt;/em&gt; under its own weight because 5/4 maple is plenty stiff, however you do have to concern yourself with &lt;em&gt;cupping&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just as a board or glued-up panel can cup just sitting flat on the workbench (or on the floor) due to differential drying, here, if you don't ensure even-ish airflow on both sides your tabletop could cup.... &lt;em&gt;in fact, if the wood was recently milled to final thickness this is &lt;strong&gt;likely&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The side leaning against the wall, or just closer to the wall, can experience significantly less airflow and hence the side facing out can take up and loose much more water. Additionally as your top will be against a garage wall as I suspected it would be, a small pocket of higher humidity could result which would further increase the humidity differential between the two sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thinner boards and panels — which respond faster than thicker material — can warp &lt;em&gt;overnight&lt;/em&gt; from this effect, something that not a few woodworkers have found out the hard way. A month is more than enough time for this to occur even on something this thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-08-06T07:32:55.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14008" CreationDate="2022-08-06T08:16:48.487" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If later we want to replace the legs, and the holes end up in the same places, it means most likely the screws won't have a secure hold since the holes have already been used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Er, not so much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a persistent myth that screws can't be reinserted into wood, possibly because this may be done most commonly on older pieces (and by homeowners, not woodworkers!) where the holes were &lt;em&gt;already&lt;/em&gt; compromised due to wood movement over time causing the holes to be wallowed out slightly and/or the screws being overtightened initially or during reassembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With fresh holes and new screws it is careless reinsertion — including failure to have the threads fall into the already formed threading in the hole, and any over-tightening (that can weaken or entirely strip threading) — that leads to problems. If you take care doing this screws can be successfully withdrawn and reinstalled &lt;em&gt;many many&lt;/em&gt; times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can improve your odds of success with any of the following tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Be careful both withdrawing and reinserting the screws. Especially don't over-tighten them. &lt;em&gt;Just snug is usually fine, only one half-turn more than this is too much.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Switch to machine screws or bolts instead. The finer threading on machine screws, even though it is not intended for wood, gives a much better hold than conventional wood screws, especially in hardwoods. Tips on this in the links below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After withdrawing the screw for the first time the hole cane be strengthened by dribbling in some CA/superglue. Obviously don't reinsert the screws until the superglue has had a chance to set! This is obviously of particular benefit with softer woods, but it's no harm to take the extra step when working with hardwoods as additional security.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking if there are something like a fastener for wood, that I can drill, install the plastic/metal anchors and be able to reuse the holes a few times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/fasteners/tips-on-using-threaded-inserts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;threaded inserts&lt;/a&gt; for precisely this purpose; note they are designed to work with machine screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But they're largely unnecessary if some or all of the above tips are used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See these previous Answers for additional info:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5102/how-do-i-align-threaded-inserts/5107#5107&quot;&gt;How do I align threaded inserts&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/9526/threaded-wood-insert-for-beech-hardwood/9527#9527&quot;&gt;Threaded wood insert for Beech Hardwood&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4746/embedded-nut-for-using-machine-screws/4748#4748&quot;&gt;Embedded nut for using machine screws?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-08-08T17:28:14.310" LastActivityDate="2022-08-08T17:28:14.310" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14008" CreationDate="2022-08-09T17:54:04.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be a solution to this? Basically, how to reuse holes in wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond what Graphus already explained about the real possibility that you can, in fact, just use the same holes, some other options are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;longer screws:&lt;/strong&gt; Screws obviously come in different lengths, and if the existing holes aren't too worn but you still want to bite into some fresh wood, you can probably use slightly longer screws. Note that if the screws aren't self-tapping, you may need to drill the pilot hole deeper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;larger screws:&lt;/strong&gt; If the existing holes are too worn to hold well, you can go to a larger size. The home centers near me seem to only stock even-numbered sizes (#6, #8, #10, etc.) for some types of wood screws, but odd sizes are available from good hardware stores if you can find one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;repair the holes:&lt;/strong&gt; If the existing holes are really a mess, you could drill them out and glue in sections of dowel. Go with a dowel that has a significantly larger diameter than the screw you'll be using so that the threads and the glued surface are well away from each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-08-09T17:54:04.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14014" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-09T21:53:27.210" Score="1" ViewCount="781" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pM1Ds.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pM1Ds.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Hi all!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has been my first experiment into restoring furniture and so far it hasn’t been a success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started out by using wood stripper and I did a few coats and it was very hard to get off and tricky to work with. I used methylated spirits to check if the finish was removed but it looked patchy and glossy in some areas so I used my scraper too. Then I saw some black dots appear so I used Oxcalic acid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve also sanded but I’ve reached a point where I can’t tell if all the finish removed or maybe I’ve just gone too far with the stripping and ruined the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help on next step would be very appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12432" LastActivityDate="2023-02-09T14:37:11.770" Title="Patchy and blotchy wood! HELP" Tags="|wood|refinishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14015" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14016" CreationDate="2022-08-10T09:55:29.210" Score="3" ViewCount="499" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an armchair that, according to the manufacturer, is made of moulded layer-glued wood veneer (IKEA Poang).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After several years the chair is tipping to the left. As seen from the picture below, the left leg/arm is sitting 2 cm lower than the right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried spraying with water, applying heat with a heat gun and then pulling the lower leg using force. That evened the legs but only temporarily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to salvage it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4O329.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4O329.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;IKEA Poang&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12434" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-08-10T19:00:01.530" LastActivityDate="2022-08-10T19:01:24.177" Title="Is it possible to fix a distorted laminated chair leg? [bent-wood lamination]" Tags="|furniture|bending|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14015" CreationDate="2022-08-10T11:18:33.950" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Changing the shape of the leg should be possible because the bend you require is not extreme. Because of the glue joints a larger bend may be impossible, but a small change in radius is not hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not use water or you will damage finish, just use heat. If the heat gun is your only heat source you need to heat for much longer. When enough wood is hot &lt;strong&gt;bend leg more than is required&lt;/strong&gt; using clamps or rope/straps and &lt;strong&gt;leave to cool overnight&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if the use that caused the distortion remains, the chair will be tipping to the left again in a few months I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-08-10T19:01:24.177" LastActivityDate="2022-08-10T19:01:24.177" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14017" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-10T17:26:15.263" Score="1" ViewCount="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, I bought a kitchen with a veneered wood top, with black marble-effect finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The guys that assembled the kitchen used some silicone to join the two pieces of the top, leaving a horrible layer of silicone near the joint. This in backlight looks shiny and contrasts with the rest of the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I've tried to remove it and successfully got 90 % of it off, but with the sanding action of the cloth, the top still looks shiny. Are there any products that I can use to make it look like the rest of top (like oils, lacquer, ...)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D6jYd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D6jYd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The area is near the sink&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12436" LastEditorUserId="12436" LastEditDate="2022-08-12T15:17:15.727" LastActivityDate="2022-08-12T15:17:15.727" Title="Fix laminate kitchen counter finish" Tags="|finishing|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14008" CreationDate="2022-08-10T19:27:07.667" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the screw is no longer gripping in the hole, put some wood glue in the hole, fill it with toothpicks or wooden match sticks (remove the flammable part!) then drive the original screw and allow the glue to set before using it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done this with door hinges (which take quite a bit of stress) and it works great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2022-08-10T19:27:07.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14019" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-11T09:51:56.620" Score="2" ViewCount="226" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started building a dining seating bench. This is the plan that I created in SketchUp:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3VYSl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3VYSl.png&quot; alt=&quot;bench&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first part is to build the carcass which supposed to look like this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hHJPJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hHJPJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;structure&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using construction grade 5x10cm lumber(pine). I've spent some time choosing the most straight pieces from the lumber yard but they are still not perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, I have finished building the carcass for the bench and, as I feared, it is not perfectly flat and is rocking along the diagonal while on flat surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I kind of expected that and initially thought that I could mitigate that by installing adjustable legs at the bottom but now I realize that I won't be able to fit the top plywood piece (the seating).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any ways I could fix or mitigate that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12439" LastActivityDate="2022-08-13T04:47:41.413" Title="How to mitigate a crooked banquette bench structure" Tags="|wood|furniture|design|plywood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14019" CreationDate="2022-08-11T14:06:10.740" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the severity of the warp, you may be able to use steel cables (1/8&amp;quot;) with thimbles and screw eyes to pull the shape square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Determine the larger diagonal to be &amp;quot;shortened&amp;quot; and screw an eye into each corner. Secure the cable through both thimbles and eyes. The routing is from the center of the rectangle, through one eye, then the other and back to the center, providing a complete loop. Ensure to thread on the swages during the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Securely clamp the loose ends together. Place a suitable tool in the center of the loop and spin it, twisting the cable, making it shorter, pulling the diagonal into position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this single panel correction solves the problem, crimp the swages, otherwise secure the twisting tool and perform the same process on the other diagonal(s). You don't want to crimp the swages until all the diagonals are squared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do away with the nicopress swages and the cable if your sheet goods are strong enough to hold the forced distortion once the cables are released. In that case, split bolt clamps commonly used for ground wire attachment can be used and removed easily later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any method that can be used to pull or push opposite corners in the desired direction will work; cables are not a strict requirement. Pipe clamps of suitable length with appropriate fastening locations may also provide enough force to twist things back into shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used the cable method to warp an aircraft wing structure into true, but the cables remained in place, as the &amp;quot;sheet goods&amp;quot; were wing skins and not strong enough to hold the shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AUxw8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AUxw8.png&quot; alt=&quot;twisted box&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2022-08-11T14:06:10.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14019" CreationDate="2022-08-11T19:30:23.883" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've spent some time choosing the most straight pieces from the lumber yard but they are still not perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was getting ready to to say &lt;em&gt;be more selective&lt;/em&gt; then got to this sentence. So instead, &lt;em&gt;be &lt;strong&gt;even more&lt;/strong&gt; selective&lt;/em&gt; :-) A lesson I picked up somewhere very early on is if you must build decent stuff, especially furniture, from construction lumber you need to pick only the best stuff (leaving the rest for someone else who doesn't care as much) or expect to do A LOT of milling later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Construction lumber is just that, it's made for construction, where many sins that are unforgivable in furniture work are acceptable. (It's still not as good as it should be frankly, but it is what it is.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway this also indicates that you didn't further process the wood before using it, which compounded the first error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, just a quick primer on buying SPF for anything other than rough carpentry:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be hyper-selective what you get, because it's sure not likely to get any better once it gets into your home/workshop. &lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do not expect to use the wood soon after you get it home. &lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Still&lt;/em&gt; expect to have to do at least some milling to get acceptable parts!&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I kind of expected that and initially thought that I could mitigate that by installing adjustable legs at the bottom but now I realize that I won't be able to fit the top plywood piece (the seating).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't bother using adjustable feet here, you could simply shim the raised corners. Shimming is a perfectly acceptable building practice even in fine carpentry to get square items to fit in non-square locations, or the opposite :-) If for any reason you must have something adjustable you can install lag screws or bolts as feet, for a very large range of adjustability at almost no cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spend all your adjustment time getting just the top flat and level because this is really the only critical surface on your carcass. Unless the distortion is very bad the top should easily be brought to level with some hand planing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Accept no twist (literally none), minimal bow (a lot of this can be taken out when cutting down to size) and zero cupping. Discount pieces with too many or too large knots while you're at it. Depending on where you live and how many big-box stores or wood suppliers you have within acceptable driving distance this might mean visiting more than one of them, &lt;em&gt;or ALL of them&lt;/em&gt;, to find the wood for a single project. Or, visiting the same one or two multiple times over a period of weeks in order to build up stock of the best stuff on offer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Dimensional lumber should be acclimated at home before use. Don't think days, think weeks. You want to wait &lt;em&gt;at least&lt;/em&gt; a few weeks and ideally longer; remember this is the wait time after the last piece gets home, not the first one. Wait more than a month if you can....... it &lt;em&gt;still&lt;/em&gt; won't be as dry as it should be, but it'll be better. Even though you aren't starting with green material this is still drying wood and the lumber should be treated accordingly — sticker and stack it, with heavy weight on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; A slightly bowed 8' 2x4 is acceptable because it will yield 2-3 project pieces which are very much less bowed than the starting board. But don't forget that no furniture pieces should have any bow in them at all, so before use in the finished project what little remains should be milled out, typically with a jointer and thickness planer or by planing (with a hand plane or with a power planer). It's not ideal but if you had to you could also do this using a belt sander fitted with a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; coarse belt; you want to use well under 80 grit here if you can get it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-08-11T19:30:23.883" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14022" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-12T07:41:39.340" Score="3" ViewCount="108" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a novice woodworker. Ordered £2000 worth of PAR white oak online. One 2m plank of 144x45 has worm holes at 30cm from the end. When ordering I specified I would be cutting to 1m lengths but on pointing this out supplier said don't worry its treated, just fill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really don't want to use this piece (in a staircase) and think they should replace, am I being unreasonable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12443" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-08-12T19:00:03.540" LastActivityDate="2022-08-12T19:00:03.540" Title="Supplied PAR white oak, one plank has woodworm holes" Tags="|oak|insects|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14023" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-12T13:08:34.223" Score="-3" ViewCount="390" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our post &amp;amp; beam house has paint marks on the posts and beams from a past owner. They were repainting the drywall and did not tape off. Since the wood is rough cut my concern is sanding will stand out as much as paint marks do. How can I remove paint and maintain integrity of rough wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12445" LastEditorUserId="12445" LastEditDate="2022-08-12T13:10:29.610" LastActivityDate="2022-08-21T21:33:31.427" Title="How can I remove small, paint brush marks off rough, natural wood interior beams?" Tags="|wood|paint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14025" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14027" CreationDate="2022-08-13T18:19:00.050" Score="3" ViewCount="182" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is this tool?  It is 9 inches long, with a straight wooden handle and a flat wooden head with one rounded and one flat edge.  In the flat edge of the wooden head is a thick strip of metal which protrudes by half its width, offering a blunt/flat edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It feels sufficiently strong and has the right sort of heft that conceivably it could be used to strike something using the metal part — perhaps some sort of soft sheet metal like lead flashing.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8avvH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8avvH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The toon in question&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TlXQA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TlXQA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Another view of the tool&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12448" LastActivityDate="2022-08-13T22:14:40.170" Title="What is this tool with a metal strip mounted perpendicular to a wooden handle?" Tags="|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14026" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14032" CreationDate="2022-08-13T19:10:20.610" Score="2" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is this tool?  It has a turned wooden handle atop a large straight blade with a semicircular cutout for the fingers.  The blade is 7 inches long and 4 inches deep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Were it not for the cutout from the blade and were the blade not sharp, it could be used as a dough scraper.  Since the blade is sharp but not very long and has 90 degree corners, I assume it is intended to cut down through something relatively soft with a pushing action (as opposed to a slicing action back and forth).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a damaged label on the handle, which looks as if it may read (with &amp;quot;_&amp;quot; marking unclear letters) &amp;quot;_ICH_ST____ADE&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am asking this here because I acquired the tool amongst a set of woodworking tools in a joiner's box and as such consider that it is may be a woodworking tool or a least a tool used by a woodworker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xyv7X.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xyv7X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The tool in question&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w15MN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w15MN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Another view of the tool, with the lable visible&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12448" LastEditorUserId="12448" LastEditDate="2022-08-14T06:09:00.040" LastActivityDate="2022-08-15T13:53:59.160" Title="What is this tool that looks a bit like a dough scraper but with a sharp cutting edge?" Tags="|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ClosedDate="2022-08-16T14:28:25.667" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14025" CreationDate="2022-08-13T22:14:40.170" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a &lt;em&gt;veneer hammer&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hammer part of the name is confusing as these aren't a percussion tool, they are instead pressing tools. They are used in traditional veneer work (using hot protein-based glue) to firmly press the veneer down onto the substrate as the glue cools and gels, a process called &amp;quot;hammer veneering&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one could be a commercially made version or a user-made tool, not sure if it's possible to tell as if you go back far enough the shape and materials could be the same, and the quality of fit and finish could be indistinguishable. It does however look very much like the pattern suggested by Robert Wearing in his books on jig/tool/accessories making (which could originally have come from the pages of &lt;strong&gt;The Woodworker&lt;/strong&gt; magazine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little on hammer veneering for anyone interested:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.finewoodworking.com/membership/pdf/36984/011010052.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hammer Veneering&lt;/strong&gt;, Veneer the whole world, without clamps&lt;/a&gt; (PDF warning) by Tage Frid from Fine Woodworking, originally published 1978.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/hammer-veneering-2/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hammer Veneering&lt;/a&gt; by Don Williams on Popular Woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-08-13T22:14:40.170" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14028" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14035" CreationDate="2022-08-14T05:12:45.080" Score="-1" ViewCount="200" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was planning to buy a second-hand &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/sundvik-crib-gray-50494080/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ikea Crib&lt;/a&gt; and turn it into a couch. However, the crib's maximum load is 50lb - which is way too low for any fully grown people to use. Is it possible to add reinforcements and increase the maximum load to at least 270lb? If so, how/what methods can we use to reinforce it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12450" LastActivityDate="2022-08-15T19:19:30.587" Title="Is it possible to convert Ikea crib to an adult sofa/couch?" Tags="|furniture|design|weight-capacity|planning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14029" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-15T02:48:49.590" Score="1" ViewCount="67" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 42&amp;quot; white oak round that is 3&amp;quot; thick. I poured &lt;a href=&quot;https://smile.amazon.com/Epoxy-Resin-Crystal-Clear-Liquid/dp/B07PXGFGCS/ref=sr_1_9?crid=338XEMWAM2ZBQ&amp;amp;keywords=eco%20epoxy&amp;amp;qid=1660531192&amp;amp;sprefix=eco%20epoxy%2Caps%2C82&amp;amp;sr=8-9&amp;amp;ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.18ed3cb5-28d5-4975-8bc7-93deae8f9840&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Liquid glass epoxy resin&lt;/a&gt; in the checked cracks (0.5&amp;quot; wide) in it last night. It filled only about 1&amp;quot; deep (darn leaks).  I don't have enough liquid glass to finish the project, but I have some &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0829S1SWQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ecopoxy&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once the Liquid Glass is hard (but still tacky), can I fill in the remaining 2&amp;quot; with Ecopoxy?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if the bond between the Liquid glass and Ecopoxy isn't great, presumably there'd be enough wood contact for the Ecopoxy to bond to.  My only concern is that the Ecopoxy could act like a solvent and damage the still curing Liquid Glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12452" LastActivityDate="2022-08-15T19:06:20.080" Title="Adding Ecopoxy layer to curing Liquid Glass layer in live edge project" Tags="|epoxy|live-edge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14031" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14033" CreationDate="2022-08-15T12:15:50.717" Score="2" ViewCount="481" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m trying to figure out the best way to make this project. I have a project that I have already cut out on my CNC machine, but each end needs to be bent upwards about 15 degrees. I don’t have a press so I’ll have to soak the wood and place it in a mold. This is something I’ve done on a smaller scale before; however, on this project I need to lay down a few layers of carbon fiber and epoxy resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: without a press, when should I perform the bending? Can I do it the same way with all the pieces attached, or do I have to bend the wood first then try and put on the carbon fiber and resin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve never really worked with resin or carbon fiber before, so this is all new to me. Although this isn’t exactly what I’m doing, here is the best image I could find online that represents my project:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cnc26.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cnc26.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NiOzb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NiOzb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 3/4” paulownia wood core, and will need two layers on both top and bottom of carbon fiber (or fiberglass with a small patch of carbon fiber to strengthen the center) sealed down with TotalBoat marine epoxy resin on the top and bottom. Around the edges will be Simpakt urethane resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now I just have the basic shape cut out, but I still need to do a lot of design and throw it back on the CNC to get the final shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12454" LastEditorUserId="12454" LastEditDate="2022-08-15T12:59:32.423" LastActivityDate="2022-08-15T18:45:02.233" Title="Bending wood and resin" Tags="|epoxy|bending|molding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14026" CreationDate="2022-08-15T13:53:59.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like a &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://thevintagekitchenstore.co.uk/en/slicing-chopping/90-her.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;herb chopper&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; to me&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3PUhJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3PUhJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Pictured are a variety of antique herb choppers. Two of them look a lot like the tool you have - the two in the middle against the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a variety of styles for herb choppers. There is no standard design for a herb chopper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I search for &amp;quot;vintage herb chopper&amp;quot; I get some results that a good match for your tool.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;When I search for &amp;quot;dough scrapers&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;vintage dough scrapers&amp;quot; I get no results that look like your tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's reasonable to assume it's a woodworking tool since you found it amongst other woodworking tools.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;However, as my wife would confirm with an annoyed tone of voice, sometimes kitchen tools find their way into my toolbox.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6222" LastActivityDate="2022-08-15T13:53:59.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14031" CreationDate="2022-08-15T16:55:09.957" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I do it the same way with all the pieces attached, or do I have to bend the wood first then try and put on the carbon fiber and resin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The latter.&lt;/strong&gt; If you try to apply carbon fiber and resin before bending, then soaking the workpiece won't work, as the resin will prevent the moisture from reaching the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, as you bend the wood, the surface of the wood will either compress or elongate. Fabrics like carbon fiber and fiberglass are useful largely because their incredible tensile strength lets them resist stretching; when you apply them along with resin to a surface like your workpiece, they make the surface very rigid. If you add the carbon fiber to your workpiece first, you either won't be able to bend it at all (most likely), or you'll cause the carbon fiber layer to delaminate from your workpiece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2022-08-15T18:45:02.233" LastActivityDate="2022-08-15T18:45:02.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14029" CreationDate="2022-08-15T19:06:20.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the Liquid Glass is hard (but still tacky), can I fill in the remaining 2&amp;quot; with Ecopoxy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see why not &lt;strong&gt;if&lt;/strong&gt; that volume of Exopoxy is safe to pour in a single shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, this is based on the assumption that the two products are similar enough chemically that they're directly compatible (as two conventional epoxies with similar properties would be).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the unknown chemistry differences perhaps the only authoritative answer you could get for this might be the manufacturer of Ecopoxy themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-08-15T19:06:20.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14028" CreationDate="2022-08-15T19:19:30.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect the answer to the question in the title is &lt;em&gt;yes, but not a good one&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crib is obviously made for a very lightweight occupant and the limited amount of strain they can introduce :-) and as such the scale of the pieces, and IMO very critically the way everything is fastened together, is based on this. The requirements for an adult-size single chair are far greater, much less a sofa expected to take two or more adults and all the shifting about they would do over the expected lifespan of the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Accordingly, as I say in the Comments, I'm sure the advice you'll receive from nearly any source is that you'd be much better off building a sofa with similar styling from scratch so that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the main structural components are scaled appropriately for the expected loads and purpose;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the joinery is chosen from the outset to be strong and durable enough (as in all conventional chairmaking).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-08-15T19:19:30.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14036" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-16T14:09:38.447" Score="1" ViewCount="266" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done some dust collection upgrades to my contractors saw. Essentially this involved putting a large dust hood under the blade and motor assembly. I then used duct tape to seal off all the holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2JXFY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2JXFY.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The theory I was going for is that if all the air flows through the hole in the clearance plate, it'll mostly get sucked into the cabinet and then through the large dust hood, into the my dust collector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turns out, this theory worked very well. To test, I crosscut a bunch of small pieces of pine into probably 1x1 inch squares using a miter gauge. What I noticed was that the squares weren't moving along past the blade but rather getting &amp;quot;trapped&amp;quot; next to the blade due to the suction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not 100% sure if this is actually a problem, any kickback would be directed to the right of the blade, where I'm standing on the left hand side of the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be sure, I would like to get an understanding of potential dangers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12459" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2022-08-18T14:11:38.850" LastActivityDate="2022-08-18T17:51:45.627" Title="Table saw dust collection working too well?" Tags="|table-saw|dust-collection|sawdust|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14037" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14038" CreationDate="2022-08-16T18:53:14.940" Score="5" ViewCount="126" Body="&lt;p&gt;The photo is a square slice through a 6 x 6 post which has this shaping done each corner. I am replacing the post and want to reproduce this. I need a bit because the routed part of the edge is about 10 foot long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wnzux.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wnzux.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Existing edge&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been hitting  the local stores etc, and the nearest we can find is a beading bit - but those have square flats and a basic bead/roundover - where as mine seems to be two coves with a 90 degree bead. I've also checked the entire range of Diablo profiles online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't believe this was a custom bit, as it was done in the backyard by the people who erected the arbor as part of landscaping the yard - and I doubt they shelled out for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I can get the &amp;quot;class&amp;quot; of bit (e.g. bead, roundover) defined, I can then work out the size I need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8754" LastActivityDate="2022-08-17T00:04:59.857" Title="Another router profile - which bit to use?" Tags="|router|router-bit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14037" CreationDate="2022-08-17T00:04:59.857" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Y’all are going to plotz when I tell you this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roman ogee. Twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kyz9I.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kyz9I.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2022-08-17T00:04:59.857" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13936" CreationDate="2022-08-17T00:53:53.033" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ended up using piano hinges and the backrests are self supporting and don't move at all.  Very happy with the outcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, I routed grooves to reduce weight and add airflow.  this process took a long time and was a huge PITA - I can now see the value of a CNC mill! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mLwjP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mLwjP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NvTY9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NvTY9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12313" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2022-08-18T14:41:43.163" LastActivityDate="2022-08-18T14:41:43.163" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14040" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-17T14:48:40.120" Score="0" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a maple tree stump in my front yard I plan on carving into a &amp;quot;Hobbit House&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is using a drawknife better at carving vertically (I want to keep it smooth)? I have wide wood chisels but figure it would be easier and faster to use a drawknife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And what kind of drawknife is better... straight or curved, 5&amp;quot; or longer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12462" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-08-19T17:02:30.863" LastActivityDate="2022-08-19T17:19:44.187" Title="Drawknives for carving tree stumps" Tags="|tool-selection|carving|draw-knife|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14040" CreationDate="2022-08-17T19:35:17.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is using a drawknife better at carving vertically (I want to keep it smooth)? I have wide wood chisels but figure it would be easier and faster to use a drawknife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you could certainly do all the work with chisels, or with chisels and a spokeshave, if you have a fair amount of wood to remove a drawknife would be an excellent choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drawknives excel at doing what drawknives excel at, and efficiently working a surface down while keeping it fairly smooth is one of those things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Safety note:&lt;/strong&gt; if you've never used one before please take care! When using a drawknife by necessity you cut towards yourself and injuries are not unheard of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And what kind of drawknife is better... straight or curved, 5&amp;quot; or longer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not something you can get a definitive answer to (here or elsewhere).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously different people will each have their own opinions about what &lt;em&gt;type&lt;/em&gt; of any tool is good/better/best and a great deal of it is merely personal preference. You'll find your own, based on your stature, hand size etc., the type of wood you're working (green versus dry or partially dry, as well as the species) and the nature of the work you're doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just in relation to size, the knives I've seen most commonly in actual use suggests that 5&amp;quot; is broadly considered too small to be a good general-purpose version of the tool. Larger versions are obviously capable of the initial hogging-off work from a sizeable log but the same tool &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be used with finesse to take off slivers from a narrow stave (around the scale that you'd otherwise remove with a spokeshave, although requiring more control).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Buying&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If you're not in the market for an old one best of luck in your search for a decent new one! Almost every drawknife user I know of or know personally uses mostly or entirely vintage or antique knives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of this is simply because in some parts of the world vintage knives (which are almost always good to excellent) can be found relatively inexpensively — a quarter of the price of a new one, sometimes much less e.g. if in need of replacement handles. But it's also that it's not easy to prep some new ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sharpening&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Regardless of whether you buy new or old, be careful when honing it. With many sharpening methods for these tools your fingers come perilously close to the cutting edge and it's getting keener and keener as you progress.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-08-19T17:19:44.187" LastActivityDate="2022-08-19T17:19:44.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14036" CreationDate="2022-08-18T14:34:35.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to get an understanding of potential dangers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any time you push wood into that spinning blade, the part between the blade and the fence is at risk of binding and being thrown across the room in an event called &amp;quot;kickback&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can happen with &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; tool with a spinning blade, but the table saw is the most dangerous because the wood becomes a missile when this happens. With a miter saw, for example, the kickback shoves the wood into the corner between the fence and the base, causing the motor/blade/handle assembly to rise back up. With the miter saw, the blade is automatically protected by the closing blade guard, and the whole thing is mechanically limited in its travel distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can also happen when cutting with a hand-held circular saw. Usually, though, the saw will stop (especially if it's battery powered) because the blade will bind in the wood and it won't launch too much wood/equipment too far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To give you an idea of the forces involved in table saw kickback, there was a 2x4 shaped chunk taken out of the chalk board&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt; in my Junior High School shop class (back in the dark ages when there was such a thing as &amp;quot;shop class&amp;quot;). This was caused by someone attempting to rip cut a 2x4 on the table saw. The 2x4 got caught and kicked back, throwing the board across the room and hitting the black board. Note that this board flew at &lt;em&gt;least&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;**&lt;/sup&gt; 30 feet (~10m) and traveled above all the student desks and the teacher's desk before hitting the chalk board. Fortunately, everyone was in the shop area and not in the desk area, so nobody (but the saw operator) was in the line of fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When cutting small pieces such as your 1x1&amp;quot; squares, you should &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; use a push stick on the piece between the blade and the fence. The stick protects your fingers from the blade; it also ensures even pressure on the wood as it travels, reducing the risk of twist which increases the risk of kick back; and it ensures that you can push the off-cut out from between the blade and fence as leaving it there also increases the risk of that piece being thrown back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt; &#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt;As a follow up, that chalk board wasn't replaced during the 3 years I attended that school and probably longer. Partially because replacing it wasn't cheap, but also because it was used as an object lesson in the dangers of kickback when using the table saw. It was quite sobering to a group of early-teenage kids walking into class and seeing that dent that wasn't there yesterday. Turns out, it had happened during the class right before mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;**&lt;/sup&gt;Junior High School was &lt;em&gt;ahem&lt;/em&gt; a few years ago. It was probably more like 50 feet, accounting for the rows of desks, but my memory isn't precise enough to recall exactly. I'd rather underestimate than be accused of fearmongering and over exaggeration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2022-08-18T14:34:35.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14036" CreationDate="2022-08-18T17:51:45.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To work correctly, the dust extraction on a table saw should not be creating that much vacuum.   Dust extraction works by moving the sawdust with air, and for that to work on a table saw, it has to move a significant air stream past the saw blade and into the extraction system.   Sealing up the saw so that the only way air can get to the blade well is through your (hopefully zero clearance) insert is going to result in too little air flow to move the dust and chips, of too high a velocity air flow through the insert.   It's also going to cause the problem you document.   The pinning is probably not that big of problem though - if you have a zero clearance plate, the force that can be exerted on an offcut is not going to very great compared to the mass of most offcuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the effort you've put into sealing the bottom of your saw, I would look into the blade well, and ask where air is able to enter the well that will cause it to flow past the blade in a forceful stream.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11864" LastActivityDate="2022-08-18T17:51:45.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14044" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14045" CreationDate="2022-08-20T06:40:33.467" Score="2" ViewCount="892" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a metal bench (like a park bench) with wood around the edges, but the wood is extremely worn and I would like to replace it. Because the top and bottom of the bench is curved, I am going to try to trace the existing wood pieces and use my bandsaw to match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, the existing wood doesn't have square edges which makes it difficult to trace a line that would perfectly match the width without letting the pencil creep under the curve. As I thought to myself how I might ensure a perfect trace (using a regular #2 pencil), I thought I might angle the pencil such that the angled tip is flush against the side. Hopefully that makes sense... but if not don't worry because while in theory this should work if I am extremely careful, I'm not that careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above is my thought process so far, but I'm trying to find a better way to match the existing piece upfront because experience tells me if I go forward with this first idea off the top of my head I'm just going to end up with something that requires way too much extra effort to correct afterward. (And maybe I'm wrong about that; maybe this is a common solution, which is why I'm asking the question to find out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did see a Stumpy Nubs video just now about using a router table to create positive/negative templates and realized that if I had a router table I ought to be able to match the curve on another piece of wood pretty easily by stacking them. However, I don't have a router; much less a router table. I do plan to buy a hand held router, but a table is out of the question at this time. Not sure if I could easily accomplish the same with a handheld router?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is a) Do I try the pencil trace method and use a bandsaw to cut?, or b) would a handheld router give me decidedly better results?, or c) is there another superior method that hasn't yet entered my mind?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8139" LastActivityDate="2022-08-21T16:10:01.273" Title="How to trace a piece of wood with curved edges" Tags="|router|band-saw|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14044" CreationDate="2022-08-20T08:11:55.137" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen a couple/few complex hacks over the years for doing this that, and while some are very interesting TBH they're just not worth the effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, great tip for this I've seen used by some when tracing the complex shape of saw handles: sand the end of your #2 pencil in half.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doesn't actually have to be in half exactly, just enough to expose the lead. This way the edge of the piece to be traced and the edge of the pencil are in alignment, so no offset error as normal with a pencil. Simples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-08-20T08:11:55.137" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14044" CreationDate="2022-08-20T12:57:01.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't clearly say whether you can remove the existing board intact, and whether it is flat in its long dimension.   I assume the answer to both is yes in my answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your fundamental problem is to get a tool to reliably follow the flat plane of the pattern board, while a bearing surface perpendicular to that plane follows the edge of the pattern board.   The bearing surface can guide either a pencil, a router bit, or a bandsaw blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a) (How to trace reliably)  This is easily done by making a holder for the pencil.  Cut a flat board, say 2&amp;quot; X 4&amp;quot; from a thick piece of lumber.   1 1/2&amp;quot; dimensional lumber is good for this, if it's smooth and flat.   Now drill a hole that a pencil fits snugly through all the way through the 1 1/2&amp;quot; dimension near one end.   Put the pencil in the hole, projecting the thickness of the pattern board through on the sharpened end of the pencil.   You can now lay your pattern board on top of your replacement lumber,  lay the pencil holder flat on the surface of the pattern board, and hold follow the edge of the pattern board with the pencil held vertical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b) (Is a router better) You can do it with a handheld router, But it'd be tough to do well, and safely.   To reliably duplicate a pattern with a router, the foot plate of the router must sit firmly on the plane of the pattern, and the edge of the pattern that the bit follows should be perpendicular to that plane.   Your pattern edge is rounded.   This can still work if you have a wide enough bearing on the bit to follow the rounded edge of the pattern board, but your going to end up with a lot of router bit sticking out of the router, and probably need to make the cut in several passes.   It would not be easy to do this well and safely with a handheld machine, unless you're well practiced with handheld routers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;c) You can make a pattern follower for your bandsaw.   Jonathan Katz-Moses shows how this is done in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VsLN_gJvCZA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;.    He builds it with a router table, which you don't have, but once you see the idea, it's not hard to see how you can make the template follower using your bandsaw and hand tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Were this my problem to solve, I'd use method a.   c will work just fine.  I'd avoid b.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11864" LastActivityDate="2022-08-20T12:57:01.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14047" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-21T01:31:57.623" Score="1" ViewCount="162" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m familiar with this type of crack/check, but I’m not sure how to describe it, or if there is a technical term.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve encountered this in the past when we built log furniture, and someone told me it’s caused when the tree is felled, like if it takes a bad bounce.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I need to solve this problem, and it starts by figuring out how to describe it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any information about how to fix these things in a wood floor finished with WOCA oil will also help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MTE8d.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MTE8d.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GqiD5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GqiD5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KCDE6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KCDE6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1113" LastActivityDate="2022-08-30T22:51:28.257" Title="What’s this kind of cracking on the surface of these boards called? Is it fixable?" Tags="|finishing|wood-repair|flooring|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14023" CreationDate="2022-08-21T01:54:33.670" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stiff brushes of increasing stiffness. Start with nylon and move up to steel. Be very gentle because you’re trying to remove finish but not wood pulp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to go to town, get a drill mounted nylon brush wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You’ll definitely going to be refinishing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1113" LastActivityDate="2022-08-21T01:54:33.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14047" CreationDate="2022-08-21T11:04:39.647" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no sure way to identify the source of cracks of this sort once the wood has been converted into boards and especially when already placed, so you're only able to see one face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve encountered this in the past when we built log furniture, and someone told me it’s caused when the tree is felled, like if it takes a bad bounce.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That type of stress crack is a possible source, but because of the complex 3D nature of cracks in wood (they may follow grain boundaries only very approximately!) what we're seeing here could even be cross-sections of drying cracks that angled across the wood rather than strictly parting the grain as we usually expect. Without information about where the board was in the original log &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; how it was sawn 9which sawing method to convert from log to boards) there's no additional information to go on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it starts by figuring out how to describe it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just &amp;quot;crack&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;cross-grain crack&amp;quot; are going to have to suffice for describing this verbally. A picture is worth a thousand words if you need to show the exact nature of the defect to anyone :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I need to solve this problem&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid there's no good solution here, particularly if you're seeking a seamless repair that can't easily be spotted with the naked eye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may sound trite but &lt;em&gt;the 'fix' for this is not to use the board in the first place.&lt;/em&gt; Or to saw off the affected portion if that wouldn't leave offcuts that are too short to be usable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cracks that go across the grain like this, no matter their cause, can't be filled in a way that makes them invisible — although fills that cross grain lines can sometimes be done in such a way that they look very good from a specific angle they &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; fail scrutiny when looked at in varying lighting conditions from some other angle (or possibly most other angles) because of the way that the surface and structure of wood refracts and reflects light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of this, where you do want to go ahead and use the wood, and fill the crack, the time to do so is when the wood is still bare. Post finish application you always run the risk of the finish absorbed by the wood fibres and of course whatever has wicked into the crack itself, interfering with the bond of the filler material. This can cause the filler not to stick adequately to begin with, or to fail prematurely in service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-08-21T11:04:39.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14044" CreationDate="2022-08-21T12:43:57.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A handy tool to have in the shop for occasions such as this is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/marking-accessories/32536-flexible-curves&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;flexible curve&lt;/a&gt;. It is basically a long piece of (usually) lead* encased in flexible plastic. All you need to do is press it in place along the face of the curved piece you're trying to copy, then transfer the line to your replacement piece of wood. They are generally inexpensive - the ones I linked to currently cost between $8 and $13 (USD), plus shipping. They're available from many sources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how long the pieces of wood you want to copy are, a contour gauge (also known as a profile copier or duplicator) may be an option. They tend to be more expensive than flexible curves, and the largest I found with a brief search was only 20&amp;quot; long, but with a decent one you won't have any slop or flexing like you might get when moving a flexible curve. They are also very handy tools to have if you do any wood turning, as they're great for copying profiles on turned spindles and balusters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt; Because of the plastic casing, there's no contact with the metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2022-08-21T12:43:57.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14044" CreationDate="2022-08-21T16:10:01.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take the piece outside on a sunny day. Aim the face of the piece right at the sun, put a piece of cardboard behind it, and then trace its shadow. The sun is so far away that light rays from it are effectively parallel, so the shadow of the piece wil be the same size as the piece itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-08-21T16:10:01.273" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14023" CreationDate="2022-08-21T21:33:31.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Careful application of a heat gun might help to soften the paint, making it easier to remove with a stiff brush. Heat guns can put out enough heat to scorch wood, though, and the rough surface might be especially vulnerable to damage. Test on a scrap or hidden area until you get a feel for softening the paint without damaging the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-08-21T21:33:31.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14053" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14058" CreationDate="2022-08-22T05:25:06.760" Score="1" ViewCount="569" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning on building my first woodworking bench based on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rexkrueger.com/store/quick-stack-workbench&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rex Kreuger's Quick-stack&lt;/a&gt; design. Since I live in Hawaii, the only dry untreated construction lumber available are DF 2x4x8's. The local building code mandates borate pressure treated lumber for all framing, so this is all the home centers sell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am currently planning to build the laminated 2x4 top from untreated 2x4's and finishing with Danish oil after planing flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it ok to build the base structure out of the available treated 2x6s and 2x12s? Or should I stick to the untreated 2x4s? I'm not exactly sure how to replace the 2x12 stretchers except by edge gluing 2x4s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I do opt for treated lumber, how long do I need to let it dry to equilibrate for 70% relative humidity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This bench will live outdoors in a covered area, however, it will get a fair amount of sun and occasional storm rains. Maybe the treated base will hold up better in this climate and keep away the termites? I could always paint it to hide the appearance of the green tinted lumber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12355" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-08-22T18:06:17.893" LastActivityDate="2022-08-22T19:10:37.213" Title="Pressure-treated lumber for workbench base?" Tags="|workbench|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14053" CreationDate="2022-08-22T11:55:42.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Edge-gluing 2x4s should work fine for the stretchers, just make sure they're jointed (perfectly flat against each other) so the glue can do its best work. Any imperfections will weaken the glue joint. Since it's going to be in a sometimes-wet area, at least making the legs out of pressure-treated (PT) lumber is an excellent idea. As for other parts of the base, including the stretchers, PT should be fine as long as the joints are mechanical. If you do want to add glue to strengthen, for example, the dovetails at the top of the legs, definitely contact the manufacturer and see what their opinion is on gluing dried PT lumber. If you're intending on taking the bench apart later, not gluing the dovetails is probably a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as drying - if I have the time, I try to let new wood acclimate to my shop for at least a couple of weeks. At 70% humidity the drying of the borate solution used for pressure treating may take a little longer. Not being from the islands, I can't give you any direct experience, but I've worked in the southeast US during the summer where it can be quite humid for long stretches as well, and PT lumber in direct sunlight with good air circulation around all sides usually dries fairly quickly. Of course, that's assuming it doesn't rain in the meantime...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One more piece of advice: put many coats of oil on your bench, and keep doing it throughout its lifetime. I built my first bench out of hardwood (maple and oak pieces from some old metal-framed pallets I got for free, and laminated plywood for the base), and used boiled linseed oil instead of Danish oil, but I put a ton of oil on the thing, as it just kept absorbing it! In the beginning, you don't need to let it &lt;em&gt;completely&lt;/em&gt; dry between coats, so maybe 1-3 coats a day for a week or two, keeping it wet for 15-30 minutes after application, as it'll absorb quickly. Then, a coat or two every week for a couple of months, then a coat or two every month for a year or so, then once a year for life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck on your project! Building your own workbench is a tough but very satisfying project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2022-08-22T11:55:42.993" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14053" CreationDate="2022-08-22T11:59:13.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly, I don't see any reason not to use the treated lumber for the workbench other than any additional cost that might be in the wood or esthetic value.  And since you say it will be out side in the weather, it could help it last longer, since treated wood is done to help it prevent rot and bugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(for the base)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2022-08-22T11:59:13.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14056" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-22T13:16:01.613" Score="0" ViewCount="149" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wanting to build a wardrobe with a shelf above the rail, but I am not sure how will be the appropriate way to go about it from the actual carcass construction to how to make the shelf itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan on making this wardrobe about 1600mm wide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Carcass (Internal shelf not included)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of using 18mm melamine furniture board for the construction (I could be convinced to use MDF/plywood if given needed) and I'm of course not wanting to have any screw holes showing from the sides etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should I go about this? I can see 3 options&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wardrobe sides within footprint of top/bottom and screw in from above/below&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aPktZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aPktZm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Top/bottom within walls with screws through side - Can use plugs to cover screws etc&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ijsCk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ijsCk.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Same again with top/bottom within walls but this time secured with pocket hole screws&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Internal shelf&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main concern here is whether I should add a shelf inside of one, tall carcass; or whether I should make 2 carcasses - a box to sit on top of the main carcass with the join acting as the shelf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were to go down the route of the former option... How would be best to do this? Considering that the 1600mm width of the wardrobe is quite a large span... Pocket holes, those little shelf pins?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8149" LastActivityDate="2022-08-22T19:43:05.943" Title="How to build wardrobe with top shelf? Actual shelf, or two boxes?" Tags="|carcass|construction|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14056" CreationDate="2022-08-22T17:27:56.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The traditional, and least visually disruptive to the exterior appearance of your wardrobe, would be to mount the shelf inside a full height carcass.   If you do this, though, you want the construction method to allow you to put the shelf in after the carcass is fully constructed and stabilized.   If there isn't any reason for the shelf to be adjustable, and given that you're using &amp;quot;thick&amp;quot; material for the carcass (rather than rail and stile framed panels, e.g.) I would do this by having rails to support the shelf on the three unexposed sides of the shelf, and putting the shelf on top of these.    The long rail along the back of the carcass then gives you support for the long dimension of the shelf, which at 1600mm will be quite valuable.   If you're using a composite material like particle board or mdf for the shelf, or if the shelf is more than 20cm or so wide, you should also screw a rail to the front of the shelf, to stiffen it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;THe side rails should be screwed to the carcass.   Counterbore and plug the screws if you really want them hidden, but for an interior piece, it's not reallyl necessary.   Traditionally, one does not attach long rails like that to the back of a carcass, which is usually much thinner material, and in the age when most things were solid wood, would typically have long grain horizontal on the back, leading to unacceptable movement of an attached rail, or more likely, to the back splitting.   But if you're using a composite material for the back, this isn't a big problem and you could attach the rail to the back.   Or, just attach it with screws to the back ends of the side rails.  20mm X 30mm rails (in cross section) would be a good choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11864" LastEditorUserId="11864" LastEditDate="2022-08-22T19:43:05.943" LastActivityDate="2022-08-22T19:43:05.943" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14053" CreationDate="2022-08-22T19:10:37.213" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The local building code mandates borate pressure treated lumber for all framing, so &lt;strong&gt;this is all the home centers sell&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other sources of wood than home centres! If you go to a dedicated lumber yard not only will you generally find better wood of any given type you'll be paying lower prices for it. In addition I'd be shocked if you don't find a better selection&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, which could render the main part of your Question moot :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it ok to build the base structure out of the available treated 2x6s and 2x12s? Or should I stick to the untreated 2x4s?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. There are many workbenches out there with the understructure, and occasionally the entire workbench, made out of PT wood of various kinds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I do opt for treated lumber, how long do I need to let it dry to equilibrate for 70% relative humidity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should be a separate Question, because it's a separate question. But coincidentally I tackled this in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/14019/how-to-mitigate-a-crooked-banquette-bench-structure/14021#14021&quot;&gt;an Answer just a few days ago&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully the PT wood takes up the glue well enough. I worry because sometimes the borated wood has a waxy feeling on the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are forced to use the borated wood if in doubt switch glues, because from reading around online the borax treatment &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; interfere with the bond formation of PVAs. You could try cleaning the joint surfaces well to lessen the effect, or you could not use glue at all....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are plenty of workbenches out there where some of the major joints aren't glued. In addition to one of &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; old-school ways of doing the major leg/stretcher joint, a tusked tenon&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, you could peg or drawbore all your joints; pegged correctly or drawbored M&amp;amp;T joints don't require glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And of course there are always nuts and bolts or lag screws to consider. Again, plenty of workbenches use some combination of these in their construction (especially for the major joints). Modern construction screws such as GRKs are said to be good enough to replace lag screws, with significantly easier installation, in case you want to look into that (note they may be several times more expensive).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of laminating 3 layers of 2x4 or 2x6 to make the legs. This way I can get a free mortise for the stretchers and a little extra mass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sound plan&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;. And if you're doing this you could more easily create a tapered mortise for yet another option for a no-glue stretcher/leg joint using an external wedge, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.finewoodworking.com/2021/10/28/sturdy-knock-down-workbench&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sturdy, knock-down workbench&lt;/a&gt; on Fine Woodworking (PDF available).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; A quick Google search located one which lists DF from 2x4 up to 2x12.......&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; One of the notable design details of what we've come to know as the Moravian bench. Paired wedges (AKA folding wedges) can be used to give the same effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Laminating up for major leg structures can have numerous advantages, one of the major ones for the workbench builder being 'free' mortises as you note. But there are often major savings to be had as well, because in wood pricing generally there are premiums for thickness as well as length (do note this does not always extend to width, allowing the possibility of further savings by buying &lt;em&gt;wider&lt;/em&gt; boards such as 2x12s and ripping down to width).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-08-22T19:10:37.213" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14061" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-25T22:12:35.887" Score="0" ViewCount="231" Body="&lt;p&gt;A ten inch carbide tipped standard blade creates a lot of dust and takes away more wood (needlessly). If think thin kerf blades solve both issues, why not use them as standard? What's the difference between the two?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12110" LastActivityDate="2022-08-26T18:11:42.863" Title="What is the difference in thin kerf and 'regular' saw blades?" Tags="|saw-blade|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14061" CreationDate="2022-08-25T23:11:47.233" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, a thin kerf blade will create less sawdust and leave more wood on the piece being cut. This is advantageous for lower powered saws, but unless you're making a lot of cuts in a single piece of wood the kerf width won't save you much wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The benefit of regular or full kerf blades is that they are stiffer, allowing for smoother cut (as they deflect and vibrate less while spinning and while cutting into the wood).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much does that matter? I don't know, but I'll bet that differences between specific saw blades play a much larger role than whether or not they are thin or full kerf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2022-08-25T23:11:47.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14063" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14064" CreationDate="2022-08-26T00:38:03.860" Score="2" ViewCount="196" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to build my first large desk for my computer setup. My plan is to set a 74&amp;quot; × 42&amp;quot; laminate counter top on top of four Alex drawers and I am concerned about the center of the table sagging or breaking without an apron for support. I drew a top down view of the table quickly and was wondering what I should add for support to strengthen the center if needed.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/ekbacken-countertop-for-kitchen-island-matte-anthracite-laminate-90499108/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The countertop&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/alex-drawer-unit-black-brown-60473548/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The drawers&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ijsBeABO05cEYm2tXSNn-OgynCjNaqpj/view?usp=drivesdk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The design&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Most of the weight will be located near the top of the table with three monitors. Other than that I'm planning on having just a keyboard, mouse, and maybe some light nick-knacks scattered throughout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jIXkx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jIXkx.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12481" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2022-08-31T15:55:48.637" LastActivityDate="2022-08-31T15:55:48.637" Title="Will the center have enough support for my custom desk/table?" Tags="|furniture|design|tabletop|table-making|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14063" CreationDate="2022-08-26T07:42:51.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Laminate countertop material is very stiff. 46&amp;quot; is just over 1m and such spans are normal in many kitchen designs. After 1 year of use I expect laminate will deflect, but you will not notice (maybe 1-2mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If deflection can be seen after many months easy to install central leg same height as Alex drawers for support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastActivityDate="2022-08-26T07:42:51.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14065" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14067" CreationDate="2022-08-26T13:44:36.393" Score="-1" ViewCount="969" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I read, it would seem like this design is fundamentally superior to that of a three full-width blades. For context/example, I have a DeWalt DW735 planer. For the purpose of this question, we should put aside the poor quality of the blades that come with this planer (there are HSS or carbide replacement blades for it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bng4Z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bng4Z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B008CS2QAE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This is an example of a helical cutterhead for this planer&lt;/a&gt;. The machine blades are simply &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07JDCYGKL&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;three full-width knives&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that this design is indeed superior (as opposed to being simply marketing bullshit), could someone explain the physics/mechanics of why it works better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9521" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2022-08-26T14:37:55.400" LastActivityDate="2022-08-26T15:15:26.317" Title="Advantages of Helical cutterhead for a non-professional planer" Tags="|thickness-planer|blade|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2022-08-26T17:38:15.970" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14065" CreationDate="2022-08-26T14:11:23.380" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I can say that they do work well.  My dad bought A helical planer and most of the time you don't have to do any sanding when it's done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The physics I believe actually has more to do with the many overlapping small blades, taking out smaller chips in each pass, at staggered intervals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The smaller blades are less likely to have tearout and when it does it is generally going to be much smaller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Granted a negative is you have a LOT of little blades to rotate when you need a new sharp edge.  Though if you get a chip, you can just rotate the couple that chipped and continue on.  You also have 4 sides to each blade to be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2022-08-26T14:11:23.380" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14065" CreationDate="2022-08-26T14:55:27.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I understand it, one of the big advantages is that the blade actually slices diagonally across the wood instead of straight into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When hand planing, there is a very strong, natural tendency to put the plane at an angle across the direction of planing, not square to the edge of the board. This is accomplishing the same thing as the helical head. The blade can slide into the wood and cut a little bit at a time, making a smoother entry into the wood than if you try to push the entire cutting edge directly into the wood all at one shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also gives an advantage of making it easier to push the cutting edge through the wood. When hand planing, it makes the work less tiring (important since it's human powered and humans get tired). I've see claims that this makes it easier on the electric motor driving your planer, too, since small portions of the blade are contacting the work piece at one time instead of the full width of the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also seen claims that the full width of a straight knife hitting the wood slows the cutter head down &amp;quot;significantly&amp;quot; which the motor then needs to compensate for by reaccellerating the whole head, while the small knives have much less impact on the cutter head speed, allowing it to run more smoothly. I'm not sure how much credence to put into this last claim, but I've seen it made in more than a few YouTube videos by people who seem to (in general) know what they're talking about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2022-08-26T14:55:27.613" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14065" CreationDate="2022-08-26T15:15:26.317" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Helical blades are better by some measures than straight blades. Whether the difference is enough to justify a retrofit on a planer like the DW735 depends on what you're doing with the machine.   The quality of helical blade retrofits is also very important.   Close tolerances and fit are obviously important on any planer head that uses fixed (as compared to adjustable) blade positioning, but it's absolutely critical on helical heads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The individual blades are angled relative to the motion of the workpiece, and curved so that their intersection with the workplace all occurs in a single plane.  Because of this, all cutting on a helical head is a shearing cut, rather than a &amp;quot;chop&amp;quot; cut, as with straight blades.   This results in less tearout on difficult to plane woods (gnarly grain, burl, bidirectional grain runout).   On a perfectly ground and provisioned head, it also makes for a smoother surface with less scalloping than with straight blades.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Damage to a blade can be repaired locally, by replacing or rotating a single or at most 3 or 4 inserts, whereas on straight bladed heads that use pre-ground insert knives, one generally has to replace the entire knife set if metal, stone or even a particularly hard knot in very hard woods damages your knives.   The cost difference can be very great, particularly if you're using straight carbide knives, which are very expensive.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The knives are always carbide on a helical head, and thus last longer than typical straight knives found on non-industrial planers and jointers.   This can actually pay for the head upgrade if you are planing a lot of gritty wood (like white oak), and going through a great many of the standard straight blade inserts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some disadvantages, however, to helical upgrades on consumer style planers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They are expensive - typically at least a 50% increase in the cost of a tool like your DW735.   The retrofits for consumer grade planers are also often not of the quality that oem helical heads on higher end machines are, which reduces some of the advantages of the helical heads.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They seem to impose greater load on planer motors, at least on consumer grade machines.   The continuous shear cut as compared to intermittent chops may be part of the reason for this, but it is also likely due to the fact that carbide is rarely as truly sharp as HSS knives, but on a helical head, cuts well enough when slightly dull that they are used in that condition for extended periods.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replacing or rotating knives on a helical head is a precision operation, and you must get the position and torque on the retaining screw right and uniform when you do, or you will get a noticeably ragged cut.   Also, it is fairly easy to overtighten retaining screws, resulting in broken knives, or worse, broken screws (that potentially ruin the entire head).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a DW735 with Byrd helical head that I use as a finish planer.   I like it.   It's great for final planing of gnarly woods.  However, it reduced the cutting capacity of my machine to 1/32&amp;quot; per pass (OK for a finish planer, but it'd be a pain if you're doing much milling to thickness of rough lumber) due to the Byrd head having a slightly smaller cutting radius than the standard DeWalt head.    But if I were buying a planer to be the only one in my shop, I would probably take the money the upgrade head cost, and put it toward getting a wider, heavier, slightly more &amp;quot;industrial&amp;quot; straight knife planer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11864" LastActivityDate="2022-08-26T15:15:26.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14061" CreationDate="2022-08-26T18:11:42.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A ten inch carbide tipped standard blade creates a lot of dust and takes away more wood (needlessly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not needlessly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While thin-kerf blades are certainly of use, the fact that they're not almost ubiquitous is suggestive about the advantage they supposedly offer in run-of-the-mill woodworking. Which is most woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even more to the point, the fact that those who already own a thin-kerf blade may not&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; leave it fitted almost permanently tells us something about them having a global superiority over standard blades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the difference between the two?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One creates a thinner kerf than the other. It sounds trite but that &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; essentially what it comes down to!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important to realise that the amount of sawdust&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; generated is simply inherent to the amount of wood being cut; there's no way of reducing it, i.e. it is what it is for any given width of cut. As such it's not an issue one can counter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And two factors to bear in mind are that table saws are either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;being used in contractor-saw mode, where dust is not really a factor to consider&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;being used in what might be called workshop-saw mode, where there should be proper dust collection and regardless of saw model or vintage dust collection should take care of at least 95% of dust/chips produced (and can be significantly better than this).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;why not use [thin-kerf blades] as standard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the key thing to realise is that for the vast majority of woodworking purposes, in most woods, for most people, &lt;em&gt;the loss of wood to the kerf is basically irrelevant&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not that you don't have to account for it, you very much do, but at the end of the day the actual loss of material is practically a non-issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The few specialised purposes where this is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; the case, where the loss of material to the kerf &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; of importance, are where a thin-kerf blades is of most benefit. This of course includes resawing and even more so sawing veneers from choice wood...... although arguably it's still the wrong tool for this job. &lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; As one should expect, there is some variation in this user to user. Some &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; leave their thin-kerf blades fitted for almost all cuts they do, but the type of work each person is doing and as such the material they're cutting are very much factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Just to be clear, I mean all sawing waste here not only dust per se.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Bandsaws are &lt;em&gt;way&lt;/em&gt; better suited to this work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-08-26T18:11:42.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14070" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14071" CreationDate="2022-08-26T20:00:28.107" Score="6" ViewCount="274" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying resawing for the first time on a cherry board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's just as difficult as everyone has mentioned, but I am following the advice I've found online and only sawing where I can see the line I have drawn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only saw I have with rip-cut teeth is an inexpensive Irwin pull-saw, which often binds/flexes excessively during the push stroke. Now that I have gotten a fair bit into the piece, I use a small wooden wedge at the end to prevent binding. however, as soon as I got as far into the board as the saw is wide, I noticed that my leading cut is wandering away from the line I drew and scribed on the side. (See pic)&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SXikv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SXikv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;resaw cut wandering&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this were earlier in the cut, I would change my wrist angle a little bit to try to guide the body of the saw back onto the line, but since the body of the saw is now entirely captured by the board, I don't know how to get the saw back on track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I recover from this deviation and have this cut come out as good as possible at this point? (And what should I have done initially to prevent it wandering?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AKA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="292" LastActivityDate="2022-08-30T13:46:40.143" Title="Resawing by hand - how to correct drift?" Tags="|hand-tools|resawing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14070" CreationDate="2022-08-27T09:25:04.367" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The basics in adjusting for drift are: identify it early, adjust quickly, and keep on monitoring closely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Identify early&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;It's vitally important in any long cut (not only made with hand tools!) to spot early if you're drifting off your line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Adjust quickly&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This needs explaining. Because most guides have this tip most know you do this by flexing the blade slightly in the direction you want the saw to cut. But the mistake most inexperienced sawyers make — been there, have the T-shirt! — is to &lt;em&gt;over adjust&lt;/em&gt; and then inevitably you end up doing this again and again, resulting in a wavy cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you should do instead is flex the blade and then make &lt;em&gt;just a few corrective strokes&lt;/em&gt;. If you're monitoring closely enough only two or three strokes can be enough. Thanks to Chris Schwarz I think for this tip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other common tips include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wax the blade well, and often&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rotate the workpiece more than once&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Flip end for end at least once&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And for your case:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't hold the board at this angle&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This is an awkward angle to rip at, even with a Japanese saw where the dynamics can be a bit different. It's much better to have the workpiece upright (vertical) or at an angle (45° probably being ideal) and held in a vice or clamp arrangement that easily allows for release, repositioning and re-clamping, because you'll be doing this a lot! Seriously, resawing a board over about two feet you'll probably want to adjust position at least seven or eight times, maybe more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And obviously:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Practice&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This is obviously a &lt;em&gt;duh&lt;/em&gt; but you say it's your first time trying resawing so don't be too hard on yourself, nobody should expect this to go perfectly the first few times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't even want to show a photo of my first resawing attempt (which was much less challenging than this) because the results were pretty dire! Like you I was using a saw not suited to the task, and didn't know all of the tips I suggest here. So the result was pretty horrible..... I got there in the end, but after planing the pieces were a lot thinner than I'd hoped! ^_^&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resawing is in fact so challenging that some experienced woodworkers either avoid doing it as much as possible, &lt;em&gt;they don't do it at all&lt;/em&gt; or it was the final (or only!) reason they bought a bandsaw O_O&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you want to do this a lot...&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;By hand&lt;/strong&gt; — you've probably already realised this but you could do with having a better saw. Nothing against Japanese-style saws, but topping the list of what I'd recommend would be a European frame saw, a la Tage Frid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Not manually&lt;/strong&gt; — invest in a bandsaw, and an aftermarket blade specifically tailored to this sort of cut. Even with a &lt;em&gt;meh&lt;/em&gt; bandsaw a good blade can be transformational in how well it cuts (all cuts, but perhaps most any deep rips you want to make).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wish I'd remembered this earlier, more on ripping in a previous Q&amp;amp;A, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/13897&quot;&gt;Why is resawing by hand so difficult compared to ripping/crosscutting?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-08-27T09:25:04.367" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14072" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-28T22:21:36.120" Score="6" ViewCount="1597" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning on building my first woodworking bench based on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rexkrueger.com/store/quick-stack-workbench&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rex Kreuger's Quick-stack&lt;/a&gt; design. This is a knock-down Roubo style bench where the base is stiffened with wide stretchers instead of mortising the legs into the benchtop. Kreuger's design is for an 84&amp;quot; long bench with a 14.5&amp;quot; overhang on each end to accommodate the vises.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to construct a bench that is only 60&amp;quot; long and 34&amp;quot; high. If I maintain the 14.5&amp;quot; overhang then the outside separation between the legs is only about 31&amp;quot;. This design looks considerably less stable to me than the original 84&amp;quot; design with its 55&amp;quot; leg spacing. On the other hand there is a lot of mass in both the 3.5&amp;quot; thick top and the legs (I plan to make thicker legs than the original plans) so the center of gravity should be low enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What leg spacing is needed to have a sturdy and functional workbench of this type? I intend to use the bench for primarily hand-tool woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there disadvantages to moving my 10&amp;quot; face vise to the right of the leg and eliminating the overhang? I could also reduce the overhang to as little as 11&amp;quot; but this would reduce the jaw grip on the left side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been reading Christopher Schwarz's &lt;em&gt;Workbenches&lt;/em&gt; and while there is plenty of discussion about bench length and mass, there is no mention of optimal leg spacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a sketch of my proposed 60&amp;quot; bench design:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iJJ1p.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iJJ1p.png&quot; alt=&quot;My Bench&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12355" LastEditorUserId="12355" LastEditDate="2022-09-03T01:45:27.190" LastActivityDate="2022-09-03T01:45:27.190" Title="Workbench Leg Spacing" Tags="|workbench|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14072" CreationDate="2022-08-28T23:14:46.480" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your design should work as designed.  Extending the bench beyond the legs is fine at 14.5&amp;quot;.  The overall weight and length of top should be adequate to prevent any tipping forces at the ends of the top. There are a few other details in your design to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your side vice is positioned at the end of the front face.  This limits the length of bench face to the left of the vice to support your work pieces if they are positioned on the left.  Instead of a standard vice I used a leg vice to keep the vice further from the end.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I made a wagon vice for the end vice and placed a series of dog holes along the front length of the top aligned with the center line of the vise.  This allows me to place long boards flat on the top and clamp it at the ends for planing work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I used similar sized legs with morticed ends fitting into the top as well, but never glued them into the top.  My bench is currently in my basement, and I wanted to be able to move it in separate pieces in the future. The weight of the top is more than adequate to keep the legs and top together (snug fit) when working and moving it around the shop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I made my legs 5 1/2&amp;quot; x 6&amp;quot; consisting of 4) 2x6 pieces glued together. The two inner pieces create the tenon and I notched the corresponding top 2x4's as the mortice to receive the tenon.  This significantly simplified the work necessary to create the joint.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may want to consider a shelf between the legs down low for storage.  I used loose pieces of wood for the shelf so that they could easily be removed for cleaning or changing storage needs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You might also consider a flush front apron or sliding panel with intermittent holes to accommodate hold fast clamps to secure longer wood pieces to the side face of the bench.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BTW you cannot use mortice and tenon joints at the rear legs as designed in the sketch because of the well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good Luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2022-08-28T23:14:46.480" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14074" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-29T02:29:32.823" Score="0" ViewCount="192" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m thinking about making a simple garage shelf out of 2x4’s with the 2” side facing forward. It won’t have side walls or a back so will essentially be four 2x4’s with some shelving on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I want to put doors on it, how do I know which hinge to get? I want full overlay doors and I think I’d use 3/4” ply for them. Can I use any full overlay hinge? Based on my research a standard full overlay hinge is made to overlay 3/4” side panels however mine will be 2 inches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m a new woodworker and this will be my first build with doors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking for guidance on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12489" LastActivityDate="2022-08-29T10:47:01.227" Title="Hinge Type for Garage Cabinet" Tags="|hinges|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14074" CreationDate="2022-08-29T10:47:01.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many makers of full overlay hinges with different details. Consult diagram for each hinge. For some there is max/min thickness for door, but no max for sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m a new woodworker and this will be my first build with doors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Full overlay hinges are not simple to fit perfectly and most require large Forstner bit to drill cup hole, which is maybe expensive. For simple garage cabinet other hinge types are good choice -- cheaper, will make installation easier and quicker + no loss of internal space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rockler.com/learn/choosing-the-right-hinge-for-your-project&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Choosing The Right Cabinet Hinge For Your Project&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://sawdustgirl.com/choosing-cabinet-door-hinges/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Choosing Cabinet Door Hinges&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homestratosphere.com/types-of-cabinet-hinges/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;18 Different Types of Cabinet Hinges&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastActivityDate="2022-08-29T10:47:01.227" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14072" CreationDate="2022-08-29T11:08:31.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want construct a bench that is only 60&amp;quot; long and 34&amp;quot; high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;34&amp;quot; very tall for hand tool workbench (3-4&amp;quot; taller than some). Are you 3-4&amp;quot; taller than average?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What leg spacing is needed to have a sturdy and functional workbench of this type?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Impossible to say without actual weight. Type of work that the bench will be used for is also v important element. If you look for images online you will see many workbenches weighing less than yours, with thinner legs and thinner top having leg spacing approx 30-32&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But &lt;strong&gt;if you build your bench and discover it sometimes moves it does not matter&lt;/strong&gt;. This problem can be fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there disadvantages to moving my 10&amp;quot; face vise to the right of the leg and eliminating the overhang?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes or no. Ask many woodworkers get many answers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend you keep some overhang for clamping opportunities on left side. Perhaps 3&amp;quot; (75mm) is optimum but only 1&amp;quot; is  acceptible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastActivityDate="2022-08-29T11:08:31.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14078" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14081" CreationDate="2022-08-30T00:59:31.290" Score="-6" ViewCount="303" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I use a mitre saw to cut in the middle of astock (as seen in the picture)? If this would be hard to do with a mitre saw, what tool would be best?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My assumption is that mitre saws go all the way through the lumber, and you can't put a stopper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cy02J.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cy02J.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12492" LastActivityDate="2022-08-30T16:46:35.990" Title="How to cut in middle of lumber with miter saw" Tags="|cutting|miter-saw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2022-08-30T20:29:09.630" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14078" CreationDate="2022-08-30T02:24:27.893" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is to use a depth control device, as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1crx-Sela7A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;seen in this video&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12492" LastActivityDate="2022-08-30T02:24:27.893" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14070" CreationDate="2022-08-30T09:15:22.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Everything what @Graphus said plus one other thing:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;carefully make a shallow cut/groove (4mm / 1/8&amp;quot; deep should be enough) on all sides, then start cutting on corner (here you'll see how clamping at 45 deg angle helps) and keep cutting with an angle, than reposition and cut another corner, and another - the grooves will help guide the saw initially and then the straight corner cuts will guide the saw. This way, even a beginner can saw almost perfectly!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not strictly necessary, and when you gain enough experience, you'll probably do fine just with a pencil line - but until that time, this may help a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8416" LastEditorUserId="8416" LastEditDate="2022-08-30T13:46:40.143" LastActivityDate="2022-08-30T13:46:40.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14078" CreationDate="2022-08-30T15:37:29.670" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't do this effectively/efficiently with a (non-sliding) mitre saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other suitable tools for this job are a handsaw and chisels, a router, and/or you might be able to clear some of the material with a drill and a forstner bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also be able to make some use of a handheld circular saw as in this video:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wnmCGicpOfY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wnmCGicpOfY&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...but honestly that looks like it takes about the same amount of time as it would to just go at it with a handsaw and some chisels, if you've had a bit of practice, depending on the type of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also probably make some use of a jigsaw or an oscillating multi-tool (such as a Fein multimaster)... really there are dozens of ways to make a basic notch such as this. Many YouTubers etc. seem to show &amp;quot;shortcut&amp;quot; ways of doing things which often involve a table saw or sliding mitre saw, but those tools really aren't necessary for most jobs. It's worth taking the time to learn to do things &amp;quot;the old fashioned way&amp;quot; as these skills will be useful to you at some point - there are many jobs such as modifying timbers already in place during home renovations where you can't take the piece out and put it on a table saw or mitre saw, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of good videos on how to notch wood with various tools (including basic hand tools only) here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.luxuryhomestuff.com/notching-wood/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.luxuryhomestuff.com/notching-wood/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastEditorUserId="272" LastEditDate="2022-08-30T16:46:35.990" LastActivityDate="2022-08-30T16:46:35.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14047" CreationDate="2022-08-30T22:51:28.257" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's difficult to know for sure but it looks like this might be what's often called a &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;shake&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a type of crack where grain separation occurs between the growth rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From experience, they're tricky to fix. Standard wood filler isn't a good fit. You'll want to look at using something which bonds to the wood more strongly, sets very hard, and that you can inject as deep as possible into the crack. For small shakes, cyanoacrylate glue (&amp;quot;super glue&amp;quot;) can work. For something larger you might try some kind of injectable 2-part resin, though I haven't experimented with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever you do with it (short of painting it with opaque paint), the repair will be visible, unfortunately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2022-08-30T22:51:28.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14063" CreationDate="2022-08-31T15:52:23.957" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That counter top is 1 1/8&amp;quot; thick so it should be fine across that span.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it deflects more than desired, you could add angle irons between the front and/or rear sets of the red boxes (green lines in the drawing) to stiffen it up a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xn5vX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xn5vX.png&quot; alt=&quot;Reinforcements added to orig. drawing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to add this reinforcement anyhow if there's a chance that someone will sit on the desk. Again though, I think the manufactured thickness is adequate for this case, but I'm not very familiar with the quality of Ikea components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastActivityDate="2022-08-31T15:52:23.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14085" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-01T03:43:21.047" Score="1" ViewCount="554" Body="&lt;p&gt;My small garage door has a rough cedar surface. My car slid into it on the outside and put some vertical ruts in the garage door. I'd like to fill the ruts with Bondo or wood filler and then use a small piece of cedar to press into the Bondo or wood filler repairs to give them a cedar-like texture. Am wondering whether to coat the cedar block with oil if some sort so it won't stick to the Bondo or filler so it can make another impression along the rut. What do you suggest to accomplish this?&#xA;I have been unable to find answers online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12499" LastActivityDate="2022-09-01T14:27:39.180" Title="How to replicate cedar texture in Bondo or wood filler?" Tags="|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14085" CreationDate="2022-09-01T13:35:26.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve used a knotted wire wheel (eg. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.harborfreight.com/4-1-2-half-inch-stainless-steel-knotted-wire-wheel-91282.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cheap knotted wheel, not an endorsement&lt;/a&gt; ) in an angle grinder to good effect. Flatten the bondo first, let dry completely, then progressively (gently)scratch with the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2022-09-01T13:35:26.933" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14085" CreationDate="2022-09-01T14:27:39.180" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that trying to push a piece of cedar into the filler will leave you with an &lt;em&gt;inverse&lt;/em&gt; of the pattern you're looking for and may well stand out almost as much as the gouge itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without a picture, it's hard to say, but I'd imagine that you could hand-sculpt ridges and valleys into the hardening filler to make the patch nearly disappear and that it won't be as difficult as you'd think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2022-09-01T14:27:39.180" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14089" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14090" CreationDate="2022-09-02T08:16:30.240" Score="0" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on some MDF pieces for some design and thought of using both protective (anti-mold, Polyurethane) varnish and epoxy resin together. Problem is, I don't know which order would be best for the coats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw some people using either but never both (yet) so not sure how to approach this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The design is a bit weird but: this is for a desktop case. I saw a lot of people on different forums and youtube videos making them, but wanted to make my own design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I planned on MDF (like some other people). Because I noticed molds was a possible enemy, I wanted to coat it with some Polyurethane varnish, to at least alleviate the &amp;quot;future&amp;quot; problem. Then I thought that the constant heat inside the case (even with good cooling, a desktop case can have roughly 20-30°C in temp, and more under heavy loads) might deteriorate the varnish, so then came the epoxy resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to also just put epoxy resin, at the very least because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it would alleviate the &amp;quot;burned&amp;quot; smell from the pieces I bought since they were laser cut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It would look better on my eye(s)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I wanted to try and get a heat-resistant epoxy, since I don't think it would withstand desktop case's normal temperature, at least &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;overtime&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After all of that, I asked myself which one I should put on first, especially when I learned that epoxy might not stick on every surface, and need it to be sanded/roughed, etc to be able to stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas or recommendations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10413" LastEditorUserId="10413" LastEditDate="2022-09-03T11:00:10.320" LastActivityDate="2022-09-15T13:44:12.367" Title="Desktop case design: Which one should I do first for mold and heat resistance, epoxy resin or varnish?" Tags="|mdf|varnish|epoxy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="20" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14089" CreationDate="2022-09-02T17:18:20.493" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The discussion was getting carried away, so here we go:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Heat resistance&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Polyurethane is very heat resistant &lt;a href=&quot;https://gallaghercorp.com/polyurethane-temperature-range/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;-62°C to 93°C&lt;/a&gt; with special formulations able to handle temps as high as 150°C, however that's in a solid, cast or molded form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All other search results I've looked at for &amp;quot;heat resistant polyurethane wood finish&amp;quot; come up with concerns about putting hot items directly from the stove or oven on a woodworking-finish polyurethane-coated table. &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/11613/93&quot;&gt;This Woodworking.SE answer&lt;/a&gt;, however, indicates that a poly coat &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; have been what was used on the question's table that was, in fact, cooking-hot pot heat resistant for several decades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering that the internal case temperatures aren't likely to be anywhere near those of a pot off the stove or casserole dish out of the oven, I'd think that it's quite likely that your finish will hold up to temps into the 40°C range for quite some time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you are considering an epoxy coating. Epoxy can be had in quite a number of formulations, including very high temperature resistant ones, so it's a simple matter of choosing one that suits your expected conditions. According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thecreativefolk.com/is-epoxy-heat-resistant/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, epoxy resin is not heat resistant. Epoxy resin can only withstand heat up to 302°F. Fortunately, there are many types of hard-curing resins, and each has a different degree of heat resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that epoxy can &amp;quot;only&amp;quot; withstand temps up to 302°F (150°C) and that's a fair bit above what your computer components will produce.  Right out of the box with epoxy you're at the upper end of what polyurethane can take so you probably won't need to look for any sort of special heat-resistant epoxy coatings - just about any common wood working epoxy should do the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Mold resistance&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.precisionurethane.com/urethane-advantage.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mold, Mildew &amp;amp; Fungus Resistance&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Most polyether based polyurethanes do not support fungal, mold and mildew growth and are therefore highly suitable for tropical environments. Special additives can also be added to reduce this in polyester materials as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be honest, I don't know if polyurethane based wood finishes are polyether based, so it would be wise to do some research on the particular brand you're considering. By &amp;quot;doing research&amp;quot;, I really mean &amp;quot;contact the vendor and explicitly ask&amp;quot;, as that would get you the most accurate answer. However, it does appear that &lt;em&gt;most&lt;/em&gt; PU finishes &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; mold resistant, so that shouldn't be a concern for you either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.masterbond.com/industrial-applications/epoxies-resist-mildew-mold-fungus-biological-growth&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Master Bond epoxy systems are non-nutrient and do not sustain or support mildew/mold/fungi or biological growth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, this specifically talks about one brand of epoxy, but note that it says &amp;quot;non-nutrient&amp;quot;. I can't imagine that there are any ingredients in any epoxy formulation that would actively support the growth of mold. (I take this claim to be much like the &amp;quot;Gluten Free!&amp;quot; label on a package of bacon. Gluten is from wheat, and there shouldn't be any wheat product in bacon.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, no matter what coating you use, if there are mold spores in the air, they can land on &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; surface and if they get enough humidity and enough nutrients landing on them from other airborne sources, mold will grow. However, there's no indication that either polyurethane or epoxy will directly support mold growth any more than a piece of steel would.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Summary&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This indicates that neither heat nor mold resistance are going to be significant concerns for your computer case. Therefore, you're free to choose your finish treatment as you desire without worry about either of these concerns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that you should be concerned about but didn't bring up is that MDF is &lt;em&gt;exceptionally&lt;/em&gt; vulnerable to water. Anything more than average humidity exposure will cause the MDF to absorb moisture and start to swell. Once this happens, your material is shot and it's time to replace it - there's no repairing swollen MDF. This leads to a decision that provides the most water resistance for the MDF and that would, I would think, point me toward epoxy rather than poly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another concern is that MDF is not a particularly &lt;em&gt;pretty&lt;/em&gt; material to work with and you'll probably want to hide it. Polyurethane coatings are, basically, clear (slightly yellowing, but basically clear). This has the tremendous disadvantage of showing off the bland MDF below. Epoxy, on the other hand, can be had (or made) in a multitude of colors, allowing you to hide the material beneath, even allowing you to match the case to your decor, should you desire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, I would use a colored epoxy for this situation, however, that's down to an aesthetic choice which is opinion based and, therefore off-topic for a question here. Functionally, I think either material would work well with a slight advantage to the epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: No endorsement of any of the web sites used as references or their products is implied or intended. They were chosen solely based upon their order of appearance in search results and for their ability to supply supporting data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2022-09-15T13:44:12.367" LastActivityDate="2022-09-15T13:44:12.367" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14091" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-03T06:56:21.050" Score="0" ViewCount="100" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a more than 50 years old folding kayak (Klepper) the frame of which is made out of Mountain Ash and Baltic Birch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a large crack in one of the bottom parts of the boat on top of which the seats are placed. This part is also submitted to an important pressure during the assembly of the boat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rWZPV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rWZPV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;top view cracked wood&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1dDU8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1dDU8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;close up view cracked wood&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know what are the best strategies to fix this crack and prevent it from completely breaking. If possible, one that does not require too many specialized tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would glue be an option (which type)? wire? webbing? or a combination of those?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12505" LastEditorUserId="3985" LastEditDate="2022-09-03T09:25:48.937" LastActivityDate="2022-09-03T13:47:21.293" Title="Kayak wood structure crack repair" Tags="|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14091" CreationDate="2022-09-03T13:47:21.293" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the break is the result of too much force, and not due to decay in the wood, it can probably be very adequately repaired.   To do this you need: a thin bladed tool such as a narrow putty knife (in fact a couple, of varying widths might be good); several clamps that will fit in the space you have to work, but provide good clamping pressure; a good epoxy with a relatively long working time - at least 20 minutes or more; packing tape; acetone or ethanol (for cleanup); a couple of shop rags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, you want to work the crack open a bit more with the knives.   You want a crack into which you can confidently work a thin epoxy as fully as possible, but you also want to be careful not to fully break the original wood, so work carefully.   Then tape the bottom of the crack (to prevent the epoxy from all running out) with the packing tape.   Now in a warm place, with everything warm (minimum 25C), mix the epoxy.  You want a relatively thin, flowable mix, so the warmth is important.   Don't be afraid to warm the resin and hardener in a hot water bath before mixing if neccessary to get this. A throwaway trial mix is worth the time, if you have doubts.   Work the epoxy into the crack by dripping it in, and working with the knives, until you're confident you've got the crack filled as thoroughly as possible.   Clamp the piece to bring the crack together well - doesn't have to be super tight, but the crack should be closed, and epoxy should squeeze out all along the crack.   Wipe away excess epoxy on the outside after clamping, then wait until the remaining residue has become quite tacky, and use the acetone or ethanol to clean that off the piece.   Leave the clamps on for 24 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you work carefully, you should end up with an almost invisible repair that is a strong or stronger than the original wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11864" LastActivityDate="2022-09-03T13:47:21.293" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14093" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-08T01:34:15.007" Score="1" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently working on a madrone live edge slab. My problem is that it has a few small spots where there's rot and the wood is punky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rotting has created some beautiful spalting but as I said,some spots have gotten punky and I would like to know if using clear shellac (Zinsser Bulls Eye) is a good choice for stabilizing/hardening those areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am about to use some black colored epoxy resin to fill all of my cracks and voids and then sand and finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I just dig all these areas out and fill with epoxy or is the shellac a good way to fix these spots so I don't have to dig them out and I can keep the slab's natural look and color?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way I tried several times to add pictures but it keeps saying the files are too big.. sorry..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12516" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-09-08T21:40:13.830" LastActivityDate="2022-09-10T01:08:15.917" Title="Punky spots on a madrone/arbutus slab" Tags="|wood-repair|epoxy|shellac|softwood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14093" CreationDate="2022-09-08T10:00:46.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shellac isn’t very hard; I think it’d be a poor choice for stabilizing wood. Shellac &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; sometimes mixed with wood flour to make a putty for filling holes and small cracks, but It sounds like you’re talking about larger areas than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are various products made for stabilizing wood, and some of them fully permeate the wood before hardening. I’d look for a product like that if you’d prefer to keep the punky areas intact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-09-08T10:00:46.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1947" CreationDate="2022-09-08T11:37:53.740" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lower speed = greater torque..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12517" LastActivityDate="2022-09-08T11:37:53.740" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14096" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14097" CreationDate="2022-09-08T13:53:29.553" Score="1" ViewCount="195" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently came into possession of a large maple butcher-block style countertop, which previously was used as a desktop. I don't know the full history of the wood, but it has some sort of finish on it. I would like to plane off the finish / glue and then repurpose the wood for a cutting board. Is this safe to do? In general, how far into the wood do finish volatiles penetrate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8942" LastEditorUserId="8942" LastEditDate="2022-09-08T18:23:51.187" LastActivityDate="2022-09-08T21:27:44.297" Title="If I remove old finish from wood, is the wood food-safe?" Tags="|refinishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14096" CreationDate="2022-09-08T21:27:44.297" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I remove old finish from wood, is the wood food-safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once any solvent residue&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; has evaporated, yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If done well, and especially using an effective stripper, stripping can remove all finish from wood as far as we can tell. Any planing or significant sanding will only do more to remove possible traces of finish from areas of greater absorbency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if the surface of your maple countertop material is in good shape so you're only intending to do rudimentary sanding any remaining traces are absolutely nothing to worry about because the weight of evidence is that all wood finishes are food safe&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So &lt;em&gt;regardless of how thorough you are&lt;/em&gt; the wood will be safe for direct food contact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, how far into the wood do finish volatiles penetrate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we take out the word volatile here and just consider finish penetration, surprisingly shallowly. Certainly less deeply than finish companies often 'suggest' in their product information, and even more so in their marketing blub ^_^&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The word volatiles is key here though, &lt;em&gt;there are none left in dried finish&lt;/em&gt;. This is precisely because they're volatile — they evaporate, fully, from any finish that contains them. And in quite a short time. Once any solvent-containing finish is cured enough to use they are already &lt;em&gt;long&lt;/em&gt; gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; If any; not all strippers contain solvents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; The whole &amp;quot;food safe&amp;quot; thing is entirely a &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/7541/finishing-a-beech-desk-top-ikea-gerton-suitability-of-tung-oil/7542#7542&quot;&gt;red herring&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-09-08T21:27:44.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14093" CreationDate="2022-09-08T22:18:15.917" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;some spots have gotten punky and I would like to know if using Clear Shellac (Zinsser Bulls Eye) is a good choice for stabilizing/hardening those areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on your standard for hardness. But I'd have to say it's unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some woodworkers use shellac as the beginning of their finishing method and it is readily absorbed by punky wood. In some cases it may toughen up punky areas enough that they don't need to do any more, but it depends on the variables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given this is a slab you're working on and some 'tabletop standard' must apply to the finished item, I'd think you'd want to use something quite a bit harder than shellac for the punky zones (assuming you decide to keep them) to provide the necessary durability&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. This goes double if any punky areas are along edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would tend to use superglue for this and thin superglues are widely used in various areas of woodworking for this purpose, woodturning especially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;How&lt;/em&gt; soft?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;But just how soft your punky areas are should probably be your guide — if they are truly soft and spongy, as opposed to just like a much softer wood than the unaffected madrone, I think it would be preferable to dig them out and replace with filled and/or tinted epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I just dig all these areas out and fill with epoxy or is the shellac a good way to fix these spots so I don't have to dig them out and I can keep the slab's natural look and color?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The guidelines on SE are to avoid asking subjective questions so we can't really answer this sort of query.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I will say that such fills don't have to look completely artificial&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, with the right colouring they can easily be made to pass scrutiny from non-woodworkers (who are unlikely to look at them twice). And with a little more care and attention you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; do fills that even woodworkers can't spot, or at least their eyes aren't drawn to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the black squiggly separation lines and changed colouring in some enclosed 'cells' it's not too hard to come up with epoxy fills that tone-in with the surrounding oddball colouring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; In general shallac isn't hard enough to begin with, and doesn't cure hard fast enough anyway — I know this will likely seem contradictory given shellac's well-known fast drying time, but it takes far longer than its initial drying time to get to full hardness. And IME shellac actually does so little to harden up punky wood that I'd never rely on this myself, even for a decorative item I'd prefer to use something that is much harder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Honestly though, since you're already planning on using black epoxy for filling cracks and voids I think the all-natural look has already sailed!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-09-08T22:18:15.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14099" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-09T16:02:32.673" Score="0" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;When sanding with the lathe turning, should speed be increased as finer grit is used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What speeds should be used for sanding according to grit being used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12521" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2022-09-09T17:37:41.890" LastActivityDate="2022-09-09T21:46:51.383" Title="Sanding with lathe turning" Tags="|sanding|lathe|woodturning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14099" CreationDate="2022-09-09T17:33:49.527" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ah an interesting question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first part, 'Should speed be increased as a finer grit is used'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally once I've finished turning a piece I do increase the speed a bit for the sanding and I sometimes increase it a bit more when I'm getting really fine sanding almost polishing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, hard numbers unfortunately are difficult for several reasons.  the first and biggest issue it that as the size of your work piece changes so too does an 'optimal' speed.  On top of that some pieces will just fly apart if spun at the faster speed smaller pieces handle with ease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a variable speed lathe and can just adjust the speed with a turn of the dial and I have a habit of moving it up and down as I'm working on it.  For me unfortunately it more what is the fastest SAFE speed to turn this piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making it even harder for me to give you any speed ideas is that the eye that monitors the speed on my machine comes loose quickly and give me no reading, and I have long since given up trying to keep it set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a lathe like a 5 speed, then my recommendation is generally bump it up one gear after you are done turning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The single biggest thing I have found for speeding up the sanding process on a lathe is actually not the speed it is turning but the direction. My second lathe I vowed would have a reverse, and it does, it's my favorite feature closely followed by the dial variable speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By being able to sand it in reverse you are sanding against the shearing action of the chisels and when you have some tear out it really does sand faster.  I tend to switch the turning direction as I sand, I generally let it run both ways for each grit to get the nicest fastest finish out of the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2022-09-09T17:33:49.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14099" CreationDate="2022-09-09T21:46:51.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no definitive answer to either of these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not just that you'll get differing opinions from various turners on a question like this but that the other variables such as species and abrasive type matter hugely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally is the often-hidden factor in turning, one that is vital to remember at all times: for any given set speed on the lathe &lt;em&gt;the actual surface speed varies with the diameter&lt;/em&gt;. So even sanding a single piece such as a bowl or platter at a set speed on the lathe you're not actually sanding at one speed&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One more factor to bear in mind is that many turners are power sanding, possibly in addition to varying the speed of the lathe, or instead of it. Obviously this greatly complicates the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What speeds should be used for sanding according to grit being used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What wood are you sanding? What are you sanding &lt;em&gt;with&lt;/em&gt;? How big is the piece? Are you power sanding or sanding by hand so to speak? Do you stop between grits to manually sand along the axis? And last but by no means least, what grit progression are you using?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand the desire to get some definitive numbers believe me, but you're going to need to determine this sort of thing for yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might find that for you, as it is for a great many other turners, this is actually a seat-of-the-pants thing and not a numbers game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; The inside of a thick-walled bowl is moving noticeably more slowly than the outside, the rim of a platter is moving much faster than closer to the centre, and so forth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; This isn't merely laziness or a lack of rigour, wood varies so much you sort of have to vary your approach nearly on a piece-by-piece basis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-09-09T21:46:51.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14103" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14104" CreationDate="2022-09-11T04:16:20.943" Score="3" ViewCount="1603" Body="&lt;p&gt;My DeWalt DCW600B 20V MAX XR Brushless Cordless Compact Router came with a D-base base plate with an approximately 1.5 inch opening. This is slightly too small for my 1/2 inch roundover bit (see picture). What should I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;grind out the opening larger? I am concerned this will cause plastic to stick out so the base is no longer smooth, thus making it hard to slide the router across the wood (and possibly scratching the wood)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;buy another base with a larger opening? So far, the only bases with larger openings that I have found have 3 screw holes instead of 4, and my router does not have 3 holes that are spaced like this. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.toolup.com/Porter-Cable-42188-Clear-Router-Sub-Base-2-1-2-Hole-5-3-4-Diameter?gclid=Cj0KCQjw6_CYBhDjARIsABnuSzp0OwJqFYnqKeuQ2IXb19ZI1HgU4fHfxz-NlVnX-jS5Alnkm0cPIL8aAhbYEALw_wcB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Example&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pPOWi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pPOWi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;router bit is too wide&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iDGNH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iDGNH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;1.5 inch base opening&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3f5I2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3f5I2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;router bit&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5314" LastActivityDate="2022-09-11T20:28:50.863" Title="What should I do about a router base plate opening that is too small?" Tags="|router|router-bit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14103" CreationDate="2022-09-11T17:30:22.617" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a good opportunity to make yourself an additional base with a bigger opening. Drill and countersink the holes to match the router casting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It’s pretty obvious from the pics, but the extra length lets you do hinge mortises without the router tipping in as you get to the sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plexi/lexan is 1/2”, so doesn’t flex. The downside is that the added depth reduces reach, but in years of use that’s happened maybe a couple of times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tscnh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tscnh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;my go-to trim router&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit to say that you can absolutely open up the existing hole on the existing base, per the excellent advice of @graphus. The downside is that if you ever want to use a router guide bushing, you'll have to purchase a new base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastEditorUserId="503" LastEditDate="2022-09-11T20:28:50.863" LastActivityDate="2022-09-11T20:28:50.863" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14106" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-11T23:25:44.607" Score="2" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wanting to install a shelf above a washer and dryer. Seems like a lot of the DIY videos involve buying 3/4 plywood and cutting it to size and then various other steps to take it from the rough state of plywood into a finished product. Most of the tools needed I don't even have, like a miter saw. I had the idea of possibly using a table top like the one shown below. It is 23.6&amp;quot;D x 59&amp;quot;W x 1.1&amp;quot;H, the exact measurements I need and it weighs 38 lb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B08WQ117GP&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Universal-Standard-Adjustable-DESK-TOP60C/dp/B08WQ117GP/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=Wood%2BTable%2BTops&amp;amp;qid=1662932509&amp;amp;sr=8-4&amp;amp;th=1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/olzDJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/olzDJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tabletop&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shelf would be placed in a corner. So one short side of the shelf would be floating while the other two would be supported. Considering that I would install appropriate 24 inch brackets that can hold 250lb each, spaced 16 inch apart is there anything that makes this a bad idea? Besides the fact that it is engineered wood, and would bubble if moisture remains on top for a long time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12529" LastActivityDate="2022-09-12T16:44:12.250" Title="Using a tabletop as a shelf?" Tags="|strength|durability|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14106" CreationDate="2022-09-12T16:44:12.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is there anything that makes this a bad idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you provide sufficient support, considering that it's described as &amp;quot;solid particle board,&amp;quot; it should work well enough. 24&amp;quot; does seem very deep for an overhead shelf, but if it's what you want, great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, consider that $139 is a lot to pay for what amounts to a slab of particle board. A 4x8' sheet of melamine covered particle board costs less than a third of that, and you could get a piece of butcher block countertop in close to the size you need for &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/p/HARDWOOD-REFLECTIONS-Unfinished-Alder-6-ft-L-x-25-in-D-x-1-5-in-T-Butcher-Block-Countertop-152574HDAL-74/308772504&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;about $50 more&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-09-12T16:44:12.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14108" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14109" CreationDate="2022-09-12T18:18:37.460" Score="7" ViewCount="123" Body="&lt;p&gt;My dad has decided to turn this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nVBLdl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nVBLdl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;into this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fNtjml.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fNtjml.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;using this setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yiPITl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yiPITl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I saw this, my eyes almost dropped out of their sockets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am an amateur, but I know that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your piece should be flat and stable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use riving knife for ripping.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rip fence should be perfectly parallel with the saw disc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 'to keep' piece should be on the side of the fence.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When pushing the piece, apply pressure on the part that is between the saw disc and the fence.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I told my dad, that he has to stop, because his setup is very dangerous, but he reassured me that this is the way he did it the last 45 years and that he is using a 1.5 meter long push stick and not coming anywhere near the saw disc. I told him about kickback, but he said that it never happened to him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Breaking down wood is something very removed from what I usually do. Hence seeing all the rules broken made me think that they perhaps apply to a different sport. Perhaps I am just overly protective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this setup safe? If no, how can I make it safer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5579" LastActivityDate="2022-09-13T13:04:02.500" Title="How to make this setup to break down timber safer?" Tags="|table-saw|circular-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14108" CreationDate="2022-09-13T13:04:02.500" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Taking a stab at &amp;quot;making it safer&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you built a sled that held the log while it's pushed through the blade with handles that assured no body parts approached the blade it would be safer.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Keeping in mind that safety is not binary but a continuum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of these images are sleds made for a bandsaw (as Graphus says in the comments a bandsaw is the preferred tool) but the idea is the same.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7U3z1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7U3z1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or this one&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lumberjocks.com/projects/48021&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;LumberJocks.com&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yEyk0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yEyk0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a rig with a circular blade.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cWAli.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cWAli.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.spachtsawmill.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Spacht Sawmill&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The sled holding the log is huge!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6222" LastActivityDate="2022-09-13T13:04:02.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14110" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14127" CreationDate="2022-09-13T13:10:31.763" Score="1" ViewCount="894" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a walnut table from Room and Board that I love, but after ten years it was quite scratched up and the finish was lifting in places. I have never done this before, but after not being able to find a refinisher, I decided I would try to resurface it myself with Rusten's Danish Oil after watching some youtube videos that recommended this finish (and this process).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First sanding: 40 -&amp;gt; 80 -&amp;gt; 120 -&amp;gt; 150 grit using a random orbital sander&#xA;Left a thick coat of oil on for 30 minutes, recoating the areas that were drying out and then wiped off excess&#xA;Let dry for a day and as expected, the grain rose and it was quite rough to the touch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second sanding: 220 grit with an orbital sander and then a manual sanding block (with the grain)&#xA;Left oil on for 30 minutes, recoating the areas that were drying out and then wiped off excess&#xA;Here's where I first noticed some uneven-ness in the look of the wood, and I was wondering if that was just what it was supposed to look like or whether some of the wobble in the orbital sander had  given me an uneven depth?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let dry for two days. It was mostly smooth to the touch after this, but there were some areas that were rough to the touch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third sanding: 220 grit / manual sanding block with the grain&#xA;Left oil on for about 15 minutes, recoating the areas that were drying out and then wiped off excess.&#xA;Let dry for about four days - noticed that I hadn't done a good enough job wiping off excess and there was some build-up of oil splotches in places. Smooth to the touch after this. Finish wasn't quite as uneven as before, but it was still quite noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fourth sanding: 400 grit/manual sanding block with the grain&#xA;Left oil on for about ten minutes, recoating the areas that were drying out and then wiped off excess.&#xA;Let dry for five days. It was very smooth at this point, but the finish still looked uneven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fifth sanding: 400 grit/manual sanding block with the grain - wet sanded with a thin coat of danish oil&#xA;Left oil on for about ten minutes after sanding, wiped off excess.&#xA;Let dry for two days - buffed using a buffer and a lambswool disc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, it's glassy smooth to the touch, but blotchy in places (photos) and I don't know how to fix it. Should I try adding a polyurethane top coat or a wax? Or do I need to go back to step two and do a thorough sanding starting back at a 120 grit to even out the finish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Or is this a perfectly acceptable amateur finish?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&#xA;Here is the table after initial sanding - I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; I got all the original finish off.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gQ32T.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gQ32T.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6rWXq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6rWXq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3oLu8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3oLu8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QqHoM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QqHoM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12535" LastEditorUserId="12535" LastEditDate="2022-09-13T20:21:19.683" LastActivityDate="2022-09-19T17:51:29.980" Title="Blotchy finish on Walnut table refinished with Danish Oil" Tags="|sanding|refinishing|oiling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14113" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-14T17:37:46.037" Score="1" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making this small pigeon loft. It rains a lot here so I used some marine plywood that won't rot and clear coated it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was going to do the corner framing in douglas fir, but the color clashes with the plywood at the corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I was wondering, you can get this plywood in very thick sizes, like 40mm thick. Is there any reason why I can't cut the plywood into small thick strips of 40mm*40mm fence posts of about a meter high to replace the douglas fence posts at the corner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see why I couldn't do it, but I have never seen anyone cut plywood just for framing material. Is there a reason why I shouldn't do it? Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12539" LastEditorUserId="12539" LastEditDate="2022-09-14T17:38:41.983" LastActivityDate="2022-09-15T13:08:00.403" Title="Can I make a small piece of framing lumber out of marine plywood?" Tags="|plywood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14113" CreationDate="2022-09-14T21:23:22.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see why I couldn't do it, but I have never seen anyone cut plywood just for framing material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an interior context this &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; something that's done occasionally. The first application I'm aware of is an all-plywood workbench which was published in one of the major woodworking magazines some years back. The design mimicked the structure of a conventional solid-wood bench where the plywood was sawn into strips on the table saw and laminated to make the structural members (careful cutting yielding 'free' mortises in the legs and tenons on the ends of the stretchers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some good reasons I can think of why you wouldn't see this in an exterior application and one of the major reasons would be one of cost. It's not the only one and may not be the most important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing about laminating up plywood to make a structural member is the amount of edge this exposes. Basically you make an all-edge face for every piece you glue up. And it must be remembered that every second ply is oriented at 90°, which means end grain facing outwards for approximately half the surface. I realise you're planning on using a clear finish, but I think this is likely to be an issue in the long term.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exterior finishes require careful application to provide initial protection (no pinholes or thin/missed spots) and then regular upkeep for the lifetime of the piece to maintain that protection. Skip or put off a single season of the upkeep schedule and water could get to the all-edge faces of the plywood, leading to swelling or delamination, or both, not to mention the colour changes (greying or dark stains).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was going to do the corner framing in douglas fir, but the color clashes with the plywood at the corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a pigeon loft, how much does this matter? I do understand wanting things to match, at least be fairly close, but does it &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; matter for something like this? If your inner OCD does insist on close or matching there's always the option to stain or apply a coloured finish. Or you could....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Paint it&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;A better option is paint. Obviously this ensures complete uniformity of colour without any experiments or test pieces, but in addition paint is the best protective finish. This will be noticeable over a span of many years if that's the hoped-for lifespan of the project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't apply anything&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;And let the wood weather naturally. After a couple/few years the ply and the fir would come together to a weathered grey colouration which will naturally tie the disparate materials together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Since then a number of similar benches have been published by various creators. One doesn't have to be too cynical to believe the rest copied the idea of the first one, or indeed one of the existing knockoffs, even if they present the idea as their own.... I'm looking at you Paul Sellers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-09-14T21:23:22.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14115" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-15T10:33:25.977" Score="0" ViewCount="761" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to woodworking and have built a corner unit in our ensuite bathroom. I am looking to find a 45 degree corner hinge which is surface mounted (I am unable to use a hinge with a mortise due to the material the wooden door will join with). My doors have a 45 degree bevel edge because the housing is square. I have probably poorly designed it which is why I am struggling to find anything but I am where I am and want to try and proceed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Diagram&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a crude diagram to try and explain my set up. The red circle is where the hinges will be placed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rn6t6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rn6t6.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[Edit] A normal hinge pushes the face side edge into the wall&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bn2po.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bn2po.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12531" LastEditorUserId="12531" LastEditDate="2022-09-15T14:48:07.757" LastActivityDate="2022-09-15T15:12:42.980" Title="Surface mounted hinge for 45 degree corner cabinet" Tags="|cabinetry|hinges|door|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14113" CreationDate="2022-09-15T13:08:00.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/14114/93&quot;&gt;Graphus&lt;/a&gt; brings up some very valid points about all the exposed &amp;quot;end grain&amp;quot; of plywood when laminating your own posts. This is a valid reason &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of options to avoid all that exposed &amp;quot;end grain&amp;quot; come to mind as alternatives to your simple, flat lamination:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You could make a simple box out of your plywood with mitered joints. This would leave the only exposed &amp;quot;end grain&amp;quot; at the top and bottom. If you wanted to be &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; sure, you could miter caps onto the top &amp;amp; bottom, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i.e. Make a 45° bevel on each edge of the plywood and make a tall, vertical box that ends up looking like a post. There should be plenty of glue surface, and, at 40mm (~1.5&amp;quot; for those on this side of the pond) thick there would be plenty of room for driving screws through it, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The box would look something like this &lt;em&gt;awesome&lt;/em&gt; ASCII art of an &amp;quot;exploded view&amp;quot; showing the top-down view of the individual pieces of plywood:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    _________&#xA;     \     /&#xA;  |\  \   /  /|&#xA;  | \  ---  / |&#xA;  |  |     |  |&#xA;  | /  ---  \ |&#xA;  |/  /   \  \|&#xA;     /     \&#xA;    ---------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you need an 80x80mm post&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt;, using thinner 20mm plywood, cut 4 strips at 40mm wide. Laminating these on their faces gives you a 40x80mm solid post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two additional strips at 80mm wide attached at 90° to the existing lamination will cover all the &amp;quot;end grain&amp;quot; and give you your full 80x80mm post. Leaving two strips of &amp;quot;end grain&amp;quot; only 20mm wide on each face, which would be easier to hide and/or seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;----      &amp;lt;-- one layer of 20mm ply, 80mm wide&#xA;||||      &amp;lt;-- four layers of 20mm ply, 40mm wide&#xA;----      &amp;lt;-- one layer of 20mm ply, 80mm wide&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, though, I would generally agree that this is probably overkill for what you need, unless you &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;really&lt;/strong&gt; need to have all the color actually match and paint won't do the trick for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt;Of course, adjust all measurements to fit the plywood you have/are buying and the dimensions of the posts you're intending to make. This is an example with simple math.&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2022-09-15T13:08:00.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14115" CreationDate="2022-09-15T15:12:42.980" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wow, that took me some time to understand the issue you were facing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A surface mount hinge is what you want, you just want to specify a &lt;em&gt;cabinet&lt;/em&gt; surface mount hinge such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodcraft.com/products/highpoint-nickel-no-inset-surface-mount-hinge-pair&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nn2pl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nn2plm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Surface mount hinge from Woodcraft&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: link above. No endorsement of product or vendor implied or intended.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This hinge will mount on the face surface of the cabinet, while the leaf will mount on the back side of the door, so it will be visible with the door closed. They are available in a wide variety of finishes, so you should be able to find something that will match the aesthetic of the cabinet and room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for a &lt;em&gt;hidden&lt;/em&gt; surface mount hinge, the other option is to install your leaf hinge &lt;em&gt;between&lt;/em&gt; the cabinet wall and door edge, much like the hinges on the front door of your house. Depending on door size, etc, you could surface mount or mortise it in. You might have to make a slight rabbet to accommodate the barrel of the hinge itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would look something like the (very crude) green hinge in this image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oR4HK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oR4HKm.png&quot; alt=&quot;updated version of OP's second image showing relocated hinge location&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would still leave the barrel of the hinge exposed to the room, but it would be much less obvious than the surface mount hinge above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2022-09-15T15:12:42.980" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14119" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14125" CreationDate="2022-09-16T10:36:24.100" Score="1" ViewCount="739" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old pair of Mission 701 speakers that have been in storage for a while.&#xA;I finally have the space to use them again, and I got them out, cleaned up the cones, and they still sound great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, one of the speakers has swollen damp-damaged wood on one of the bottom edges at the mitre joint. The black laminate is peeling at that point on both sides of the joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uxpDG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uxpDG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Damaged speaker 1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b1nkl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b1nkl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Damaged speaker 2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wood seems hard still, and not soggy. There is no sign of mould.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the best way to repair this aesthetically with minimum risk of impacting the working of the speakers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12545" LastActivityDate="2022-09-22T14:54:36.050" Title="Repairing water damage to wood on a speaker" Tags="|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14120" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-16T13:24:49.890" Score="3" ViewCount="385" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a medicine cabinet with a door that will be a framed mirror. Door stock is 3/4&amp;quot; poplar, mirror is 1/4&amp;quot; thickness. I'd like a 1/4&amp;quot; reveal from the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it better to rout a 1/4&amp;quot; groove down the middle of the rails and stiles to accept the mirror (like I would for a door panel), or cut a 1/2&amp;quot; deep rabbet and use 1/4&amp;quot; filler board and another 1/4&amp;quot; backer board to hold it in place? Or is there better way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The groove seems easiest, but it would rule out replacing the mirror if anything happened to it. Plus, should I be concerned about too tight a fit causing stress on the glass?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12546" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-09-18T16:19:16.740" LastActivityDate="2022-09-18T16:21:13.273" Title="Best way to mount mirror in medicine cabinet door" Tags="|joinery|door|assembly|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14120" CreationDate="2022-09-16T14:03:03.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect in the long run you will be happier with routing out the back and having small filler pieces with tabs to hold it all in.  It will be easier to line up and any twisting or warping actions by the wood won't be trying to twist your mirror.  Granted Poplar isn't likely to be able to put enough stress to crack the mirror so either way can work just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Miter joints can already be hard enough to line up without adding in grooves that need to hold glass.  You also then have to put the glass in for the final glue up as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2022-09-16T14:03:03.570" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14122" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-16T18:58:41.097" Score="3" ViewCount="344" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am modifying a standalone cabinet to have a single, large drawer for holding garbage/recycling etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BfpG6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BfpG6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far so good, however, when sliding the drawer in, the last 3-4 inches are pretty stiff/sticky. When operating the slides by themselves, there doesn't seem to be any trouble. They are overextension drawer slides from Rockler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the most common causes for this sort of problem? My initial thought is that perhaps the mounting for the slides isn't perfectly square in the cabinet, but wanted to see what others thought before grabbing out the belt sander and trying to shave off a little, as it looks pretty good when I measure it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also noticed that because of the width of the drawer, any sort of twisting exacerbates the issue, so I think I'll mount an additional pair of slides on the bottom to try and resist that twisting. However, even when I carefully slide the drawer directly in, it still binds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2022-09-17T08:18:04.663" Title="Drawer slides sticky with new drawer, common causes?" Tags="|cabinetry|measurement|drawer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14122" CreationDate="2022-09-17T08:18:04.663" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My initial thought is that perhaps the mounting for the slides isn't perfectly square in the cabinet&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could be your cause since slides are not sticky alone and it is sticking when sliding fully in and not out @ full extension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My initial thought is that perhaps the mounting for the slides isn't perfectly square in the cabinet&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it looks pretty good when I measure it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;hard to measure this spacing accurately now, tape measure won't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without large &lt;a href=&quot;https://limit-tools.com/wp-content/themes/laser-sharp/image-proxy.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fproductinfoimg.luna.se%2Fc4zoom%2F864428.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;inside calipers&lt;/a&gt; I suggest using a gauge block. Make it &lt;strong&gt;exact&lt;/strong&gt; fit at front of one slide to check spacing everywhere else. Should also be tight at back, front and back of other slider&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But are sides of cabinet parallel? Maybe you did everything right and original cabinet is the villain!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also noticed that because of the width of the drawer, any sort of twisting exacerbates the issue&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is normal but drawer maybe too narrow by small amount, or cabinet box sides are not parallel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastActivityDate="2022-09-17T08:18:04.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14120" CreationDate="2022-09-17T08:24:33.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually there is no best way, but here there is :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it better to rout a 1/4&amp;quot; groove down the middle of the rails and stiles to accept the mirror (like I would for a door panel), or cut a 1/2&amp;quot; deep rabbet and use 1/4&amp;quot; filler board and another 1/4&amp;quot; backer board to hold it in place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make the rabbet. This is how glass or mirror has always been mounted in doors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise if glass/mirror cracks to replace it you must make a new door or try to take apart the existing door without breaking it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus, should I be concerned about too tight a fit causing stress on the glass?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-09-18T16:21:13.273" LastActivityDate="2022-09-18T16:21:13.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14119" CreationDate="2022-09-18T17:10:46.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in the Comments, we could do with clearer photos to be sure what's going on here, but there are some generalities with commercial speakers that probably cover this sufficiently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speaker boxes are virtually always made from some type of manmade board material. So plywood earlier on, followed by chipboard (particleboard) when it became available and then MDF after. The latter two often had a real wood veneer glued to their outside faces, which despite the solid black colour might be what you have here&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply glueing the separated veneer back down is doable, but no sort of proper fix. Regardless of whether this is ply, chipboard or MDF a water-swelled edge &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be recompressed but it's generally not that simple to hide the damage completely, but regardless I think effectively impossible to do in situ&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. Plus you're probably not set up to do it anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I doubt it's financially viable to get a pro to look at this for you (and wouldn't come with any absolute guarantee of success anyway) I think you're left with two options. Three if you can just live with it :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replacement speaker, or just its box, from a secondhand set of the same speakers. I presume from what I've seen online the 701s were popular enough that this might not be too difficult in some parts of the world.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New or new-to-you speakers naturally.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As it seems this doesn't affect the sound output it's really only an aesthetics thing at the end of the day. Perhaps you can position the speakers so you can't easily see this side of this speaker and leave it at that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Could also be textured vinyl or impregnated paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; It requires substantial clamping force from strong clamps and/or a vice, but really requires access to both sides of the affected board. So the box has to be taken apart which I think rules this out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-09-19T16:38:04.977" LastActivityDate="2022-09-19T16:38:04.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14119" CreationDate="2022-09-19T14:40:20.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the best way to repair this aesthetically with minimum risk of impacting the working of the speakers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Position the speakers where they sound good. Then, get a nice potted plant and place it in front of the damaged area. Adding speaker grille covers might also help obscure the damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the photo, the moisture has caused the substrate under the veneer to swell. There's really no practical way to fix that, and none that makes sense economically when you can buy replacement speakers for $150 or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2022-09-22T14:54:36.050" LastActivityDate="2022-09-22T14:54:36.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14110" CreationDate="2022-09-19T17:51:29.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you have up to this point looks to be a perfectly reasonable stage to continue the finishing process. It's a shame the steps followed weren't enough to produce an acceptable result (as they probably should have to be fair) but it is what it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can continue with Rustin's Danish Oil but my immediate thought was to suggest switching to varnish, which you already floated the idea of anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I try adding a polyurethane top coat or a wax?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think yes, and absolutely no&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of advantages to switching to varnish, and basically zero downside. First improvement is that varnish builds better than blended finishes such as &amp;quot;Danish oil&amp;quot;, so it inherently tackles areas of varied surface finish better. Second is that it will provide a more durable surface at the end of the day, possibly substantially more durable&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd advise using wiping varnish for this, homemade by preference. Wiping varnish is virtually impossible to screw up and while the build is way slower than varnishing more conventionally the advantages completely trump this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: Here is the table after initial sanding - I think I got all the original finish off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure does look like it. But you simply can't tell from the dry appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why it's good advice to always — &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; — confirm this by wetting the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you wet a surface that doesn't have all the original finish removed you can tell instantly — paler zones or spots quite literally aren't being wet equally and stand out like a sore thumb. If this is found more stripping, scraping or sanding are needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While some prefer to use an alcohol, white spirit (mineral spirits) and even lacquer thinner for this diagnostic wetting I think there's a good reason to use plain water, starting with precisely the reason that some use something else — because it &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; raise the grain&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By using water you accomplish these two things in one step; it's also the cheapest and least noxious solvent to boot, so there's that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus, because of its higher surface tension &lt;em&gt;water beads up where the other liquids don't&lt;/em&gt; and this can provide valuable additional info on areas where some finish remains within the surface wood fibres (which isn't in the least uncommon).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; If you apply wax now but then discover it didn't do enough to even up the visual depth and/or the surface finish you've set yourself up for a problem, because nothing else can go over wax. So to then try any other option you'd have to scrupulously remove the wax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Since the application processes for varnish and blended finishes can be exactly the same I've basically ditched all blended finishes similar to &amp;quot;Danish oil&amp;quot; for anything important — equal or better looks, better scratch and water resistance, with zero additional effort and basically in the same timeframe? What's not to like?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; And when aiming for a close-to-the-wood look I think pre-raising the grain is the way to go, rather than have this in any way complicate a stage of finish application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-09-19T17:51:29.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14128" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14129" CreationDate="2022-09-19T20:11:31.200" Score="1" ViewCount="1614" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a little wooden construction to house a bird inside during winter for a few days when it gets too cold outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to be able to take it apart quickly so it doesn't take up much space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of using dowels to keep a few plywood panels together. No glue, no  frame, no nails or screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do this I would have to drill into the edge of plywood to fit in the dowels. Now I've heard people say you shouldn't drill into the edge of plywood, because the glue would loosen and the fibre sheets would come apart. I've seen the sheets of plywood come apart due to moisture and wood rot, but does it really happen by just drilling into it? Should I avoid drilling into the edge of plywood to put in some dowels? Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12550" LastEditorUserId="12550" LastEditDate="2022-09-19T20:13:21.267" LastActivityDate="2022-09-21T17:01:45.747" Title="Drilling into the edge of plywood" Tags="|plywood|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14128" CreationDate="2022-09-19T20:39:29.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you aren't locked into the dowel joints you've described, consider to make the build with a variation of the tab and slot assembly, but increase the tab and add a slot in the tab as well for a wedge:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SYRG2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SYRG2.png&quot; alt=&quot;loose wedge joint&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original source of the above image describes it as a loose wedge joint and is constructed in the images from solid plank lumber, but I don't think that's a requirement for your project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would have to cut slots to pass the tabs through and ensure accurate dimension placement, but I think it would be quite workable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My search for tab and slot returned a reference that doll houses use this method because the plywood is thin and can't be easily joined using other methods. No reference was made to the ease of disassembly, but that's fairly clear. Tap the wedges out in the opposite direction and you have a flat-pack ready to go into the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your plywood is thick enough for wood dowels as part of the joint, you could combine the tab and slot and add a couple of dowels for additional strength. Overall you could get away without glue in any of the joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need a good drill bit, the diameter of which should be the thickness of the plywood, a sharp chisel and mallet and a hand saw or coping saw to cut the tabs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-09-21T17:01:45.747" LastActivityDate="2022-09-21T17:01:45.747" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14128" CreationDate="2022-09-19T22:03:57.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can drill into the edges of plywood. Screwing into the edges isn't great, especially if you don't pre-drill, because the screws can easily push the laminations apart. Holes for dowels wouldn't be so bad. An even better method would be to use some knock-down connectors such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-20-x-5-8-in-Slotted-Drive-Zinc-plated-Barrel-Nut/3012559?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-hdw-_-ggl-_-LIA_HDW_126_Fastening-_-3012559-_-local-_-0-_-0&amp;amp;ds_rl=1286981&amp;amp;gclid=CjwKCAjwpqCZBhAbEiwAa7pXeatl32ByV797gDnK4ql6srTap224N14YA-nBCU70R_eQuh6320NDRBoCwGQQAvD_BwE&amp;amp;gclsrc=aw.ds&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these cross dowel nuts&lt;/a&gt; -- basically, you drill a hole into the edge of the plywood, and an intersecting hole through the face. Insert a nut in the intersecting hole, and then a bolt into the edge hole, and you'll get a strong connection that's easy to take apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-09-19T22:03:57.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14128" CreationDate="2022-09-20T03:52:46.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of using dowels to keep a few plywood panels together. No glue, no frame, no nails or screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That would work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dowels&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Having taken apart some dowelled furniture which was unglued or too-lightly glued in the factory this is definitely a viable method of construction even for certain furniture items, so should be perfectly adequate for what you plan to make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Automatic perfect alignment can be guaranteed if you use through-dowels rather than the more common method of drilling two separate holes so the dowels remain hidden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Screws instead?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The basic methodology is the same, but screws would make disassembly and reassembly much easier (once you unscrew the thing falls apart by itself).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Screwing works best with carefully chosen screw types&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; but can be done with virtually any screw if required&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. You need to pre-drill clearance and pilot holes holes for the screws naturally, in addition to doing a countersink or counterbore for the screw head to sit into. &lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; there are drill bits available which will do all three in a single operation, but doing this infrequently the multiple drilling operations aren't too tedious and saves having to buy a set of bits you may seldom use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I've heard people say you shouldn't drill into the edge of plywood, because the glue would loosen and the fibre sheets would come apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well if anyone says that without providing any additional info you might want to stop listening to anything else they say. The details matter, hugely. Not only &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; you drill into the edge of plywood but doing so has been standard practice for roughly 70 or 80 years!!&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but does it really happen by just drilling into it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can, yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I avoid drilling into the edge of plywood to put in some dowels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you expect by this point, nah! But there are some caveats. The quality of the ply is important (this is one of the bits of additional info that matter) as is the size of the hole in relation to the thickness of the plywood...... it should be obvious that there's little risk in drilling a skinny hole into thick material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For larger holes, while you can do it with standard drill bits (twist bits) you'll often find that lip-and-spur / brad-point bits are the better choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Particularly where the holes will be quite large in relation to the plywood thickness (1/3 or larger), and also when using twist bits which have more of a wedging action, it's a good safety measure to firmly clamp the plywood at each hole location as you're drilling, or, clamp battens along the edge so you can drill an entire line in one go without having to reposition any clamps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Such as Confirmat screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Although with basic screws if the requirement is to take the thing apart many times over the expected lifespan reinforcing the pilot holes would be advisable. This can easily be done by dribbling some glue into them. If using epoxy or superglue don't reinsert the screws until the glue has set unless you've waxed them thoroughly!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; For two of the primary joining methods in plywood construction — glueing and screwing, and glueing and dowels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I'd forgotten this Answer from 2016 but it covers a lot of the issues, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4444/what-length-screw-should-i-use-for-a-computer-desk/4456#4456&quot;&gt;What length screw should I use for a computer desk&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-09-20T03:52:46.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14132" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14133" CreationDate="2022-09-21T09:57:52.483" Score="4" ViewCount="672" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most straightforward way to attach legs to a table is from the edge:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Only perpendicular drilling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tabletop face remains intact.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Legs are further apart so the table is less likely to tip over.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8LqnM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8LqnM.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to read on the subject before attaching the legs, but I did not find a single article or photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems this method is quite unpopular (or maybe I am incompetent at googling).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remember seeing at least one such table a long time ago, so it is not complete nonsense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why are table legs attached from the bottom in almost all cases? Are there some considerations when attaching legs from the edge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5579" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2022-09-23T17:40:48.500" LastActivityDate="2022-09-27T15:29:00.490" Title="Why are table legs attached to the edge of tabletop so rare?" Tags="|joinery|tabletop|table-making|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14132" CreationDate="2022-09-21T19:48:38.260" Score="11" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why are table legs attached from the bottom in almost all cases? Are there some considerations when attaching legs from the edge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attaching legs to the edges of a table top would provide very little sideways support for the legs, while also applying tremendous force to the edge of the top. In order to keep the table stable, the legs have to be able to resist the forces that happen whenever someone pushes sideways on the table top, or accidentally kicks one of the legs. The sort of joint that you're proposing can't do that nearly as well as more traditional joinery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, having the legs attached beneath the top is arguably more aesthetically pleasing. The lines of the table edges aren't interrupted by the legs. Many tables have edges that have some sort of profile beyond just a vertical edge, and that would be impossible with the legs attached to the edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.props.eric-hart.com/resources/parts-of-a-table/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;wooden tables&lt;/a&gt;, the legs are joined to vertical &lt;em&gt;apron&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;skirt&lt;/em&gt; pieces, often via mortise and tenon joints. Often, that joint is further reinforced with a bolt through a corner block. With two joints, one in each of two directions (left/right and front/back, say), the height of the apron (typically 3x or more taller than the thickness of the top), and the mechanical strength of a mortise and tenon joint, the leg is held firmly in position. Add to this the fact that many tables also employ &lt;em&gt;stretchers&lt;/em&gt;, i.e. pieces that connect the legs to each other some distance below the apron, and you have the kind of strength that keeps a table feeling solid even when a 200+ lb person leans against the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The apron also serves as a way to connect the table top to the base. Steel clips, figure-eight connectors, or wooden blocks can can be used to firmly attach the table to the base in a way that still permits the top to expand and contract seasonally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think that the benefits of attaching the legs to the edge of a table are very compelling. Screwing fasteners into the bottom of a table top isn't at all difficult, and it leaves the visible surfaces (top and edges) exposed and undamaged; there's little concern for the bottom of the top, since that's normally unseen, and indeed that surface is sometimes left unfinished and often used for stickers, brands, etc. The legs may be further apart, but except for very narrow hall/glove/sofa tables, most tables are more than wide enough to already be quite resistant to tipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-09-21T19:48:38.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14134" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14137" CreationDate="2022-09-21T20:43:55.123" Score="1" ViewCount="412" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought some cheap 3/4-inch pipe clamps, and they seem to be working alright, except for one thing. Even though the pipes fit pretty snugly, when I get something clamped up, it seems tighter on the area of the face nearer to the pipe than it is at the far edge. Currently I'm using construction shims to workaround the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this something common with pipe clamps? Or just cheap ones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I found more problems with the cheapies, so I replaced them with Bessey clamps, which I am finding to be much easier to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12553" LastEditorUserId="12553" LastEditDate="2022-09-24T20:17:32.243" LastActivityDate="2022-09-24T20:17:32.243" Title="Using cheap pipe clamps" Tags="|clamps|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14134" CreationDate="2022-09-22T13:36:50.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good pipe clamps will have parallel faces and non-marring mounting pads that don't have the problem you outline, at least at appropriate working tension.   But any pipe clamp may show some non-parallelism if over-tightened, particularly if you're using relatively long pipe lengths.   Iron pipe simply isn't rigid enough to prevent arching of the stretcher, and subsequent non-parallelism in the clamping surfaces at high tensions.  But there are very few woodworking situations where you should need that kind of tension for long clamping runs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can probably fix your problem by filing the clamping faces flat (being cheap clamps, they'll be cast iron, and easy to file), and then gluing wedge shaped  hardwood pads onto the faces with a CA glue (Using CA glue makes them easy to remove if you need to replace them - a little heat on the clamp, and they'll pop right off).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11864" LastActivityDate="2022-09-22T13:36:50.343" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14136" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14139" CreationDate="2022-09-22T16:13:04.683" Score="3" ViewCount="480" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a Jarvis/Fully bamboo desktop and am trying to darken the finish. To do this, I first want to remove the existing finish. But I am having issues with doing so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: pictures are at the bottom of this post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I first sanded a corner on the bottom side. This took a long time (maybe 45 minutes), but it successfully removed the finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this took so long, I decided to try removing the finish chemically. I applied 3 coats of Klean Strip Premium Stripper to a portion of the desktop (not to all of it, so I could visually measure the impact of the stripper), waiting 15-30 minutes in between each coat and then scraping off the coat and wiping the wood down with steel wool and paint thinner. And yet, the finish looks &lt;strong&gt;no different&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Am I doing something wrong? Why isn't the stripper removing the finish?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fully.com/standing-desks/jarvis/jarvis-adjustable-height-desk-bamboo.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;website&lt;/a&gt; describes the finish:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We use Moso (Mao Zhu) species bamboo, sourced from sustainable forests&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bamboo we use for our desktops comes from sustainable forests&#xA;where it's grown without pesticides or fertilizers and matures for&#xA;five years. To preserve its natural beauty, we apply a tough UV-cured,&#xA;water-based polyurethane coating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After sanding the corner, but before applying stripper:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b25F1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b25F1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;After sanding the corner, but before applying stripper&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the stripper and scraper I used:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q9yzt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q9yzt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Here is the stripper and scraper I used&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;30 minutes after stripper is applied:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8dnF6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8dnF6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;30 minutes after stripper is applied&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After removing the stripper. Note there is no difference!&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t5F3F.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t5F3F.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;After removing the stripper&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5314" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-09-23T13:14:00.343" LastActivityDate="2022-09-23T13:46:47.077" Title="Why won't stripper remove the finish on this bamboo desktop (from Fully/Jarvis company)?" Tags="|finishing|staining|sanding|polyurethane|refinishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14134" CreationDate="2022-09-22T17:41:40.337" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this something common with pipe clamps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes.&lt;/strong&gt; There are a couple reasons for this. The first is that the screw on a pipe clamp usually meets the jaw at one point, and the jaw is free to pivot a bit on any direction. If the clamping force isn't centered right above the screw, the jaw may not stay parallel to it's counterpart on the other end of the clamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second reason is that if you tighten the clamp enough, the pipe may flex. This is a lot more noticeable if you use 1/2&amp;quot; pipe, but even 3/4&amp;quot; pipe will flex under enough pressure, and when that happens then the jaws go out of parallel even if they were parallel to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, pipe clamps are not &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bessey.de/en-US/BESSEY-Tools-North-America/Products/Clamping-Tools/K-Body-Parallel-and-case-clamps/K-Body-REVOlution&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;parallel jaw clamps&lt;/a&gt;. Parallel clamps are designed to keep the jaws parallel even under high load; they have bars that are much more rigid and a mechanism that forces the jaw to move in line with the bar and not pivot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lots of people have used pipe clamps to put together a lot of projects, though. Two things that you can do are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use more clamps so that you don't have to tighten each one as much.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alternate the clamps, so that half are on one side of the panel and the rest are on the other. That helps to prevent the bowing that can happen if all the clamps are on the same side.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-09-22T17:41:40.337" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14134" CreationDate="2022-09-22T20:31:37.760" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this something common with pipe clamps? Or just cheap ones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can expect this, but not for the reason you might expect. Even if your clamp heads are not cheaper or knock-off types and have perfectly parallel faces when they're not in use you can get this to some degree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flex is typical with pipe clamps, &lt;em&gt;even at fairly modest lengths&lt;/em&gt; (where the pipe is stiffer) &lt;em&gt;and not cranked up &amp;quot;too high&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt; (more on this below). So even clamping faces that are parallel to begin with &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; end up non-parallel under load; this is why some clamps have heads with built-in &lt;a href=&quot;https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51kOrd1NTNL._AC_.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;toe-in&lt;/a&gt; to attempt to compensate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This change in geometry under load is important to realise given the most popular woodworking glue is some form of PVA. The old thinking that joints &amp;quot;just need to be pinched tight&amp;quot; is based on older glues, but PVAs require high to &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; high clamp pressure to achieve their strongest bond&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. And no, you don't need to worry about over-tightening of these powerful clamps yielding starved joints, this is a persistent myth when it comes to PVA&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pads or lining or both&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;So, given you can expect non-parallelism when the clamps are tightened &lt;em&gt;as much as they typically should be&lt;/em&gt; you need to arrange something to compensate. Regardless of whether you make inserts or pads from wood, ply or MDF or just plan to use the jaws as-is, line them with something that has some yield — rubber, cork, crubber (cork/rubber composite), dense felt or thick leather. Or sort of do both in one by making &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.finewoodworking.com/2020/06/22/the-mighty-pipe-clamp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;slip-on pads from Homasote&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also helps prevent marring of the edges of workpieces which pipe clamps are strong enough to do even on harder hardwoods, and without being cranked up to 11!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other worthwhile tweaks or upgrades to pipe clamps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coat the pipe with shellac to help prevent black stains.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wax&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; the pipe well for the same reason as above (also makes them easier to adjust)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make &lt;a href=&quot;https://static.onecms.io/wp-content/uploads/sites/49/2017/07/24/7_79_ProtectWood.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;feet&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.finewoodworking.com/2008/09/23/pipe-clamp-spacers-ease-panel-glue-ups&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;spacers&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://images.ctfassets.net/m5c4tmkr3xik/76UWcehuTnO5eKolfm2KFj/06635b621d9fddce6435eefe5484b077/s099_040a02.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;stands&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use &lt;a href=&quot;https://cdn.popularwoodworking.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/aw_13154_002.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cauls to spread clamping pressure&lt;/a&gt;, reducing the number of clamps needed on large glue-ups&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; The difference in strength between joints just squeezed and clamped super-hard is considerable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; In actual fact it's impossible to over-clamp in a home workshop, something that you can confirm for yourself with a couple of quick experiments if you're interested on small samples using C-clamps (likely the strongest clamps you own).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; In case you're a fan of James Wright, use straight wax for this, &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; a wax/oil mixture that he continually refers to as paste wax (it isn't).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-09-22T20:31:37.760" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14136" CreationDate="2022-09-23T13:46:47.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I doing something wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technically no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few things you could have done that might have helped, but you did more than the instructions ask for. And from what we can see, you didn't do anything directly counterproductive (such as moving the stripper around when it's supposed to be sitting undisturbed, one of the three most common stripper faux pas).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why isn't the stripper removing the finish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because it's not good enough for this finish. Kudos to Fully/Jarvis for choosing a really top-notch finish!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although I'm familiar with its type I have no idea how good this Klean Strip stripper is overall. Despite the label specifically claiming it can work on epoxy and polyurethane&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; many (perhaps the majority) of modern non-MC strippers barely touch, or seemingly have &lt;em&gt;zero&lt;/em&gt; effect on, a few modern coatings. This includes but isn't limited to: UV-cured products as here, two-part urethanes, polyesters, epoxies and various &amp;quot;2K&amp;quot; finishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible that if you could leave the stripper on for much &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; longer than directed (while keeping it from drying out) it could begin to work — in a similar situation I've had some success leaving a very generous coating of stripper on for a full day, twice&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; — but this is much easier to arrange on smaller items.... and at the end of the day there's still no guarantee it'll do enough to make the effort worthwhile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So what now?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If you do decide you need to continue to remove the finish (but see below) I suggest you do look at alternatives, principally scraping as I aim you to in the Comments above, assuming you don't want to try a different stripper type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;am trying to darken the finish&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this is your end goal a headsup is in order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bamboo is typically slightly denser and harder than sugar maple/hard maple and just like maple it does not typically stain well (staining conventionally) because the high density makes it resistant to stain penetration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result a coloured overcoat, such as &amp;quot;gel stain&amp;quot; (despite its name these are jellied varnishes) may be preferable to give you the result you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;An added advantage to using such a product is the original finish does not need to come off first.&lt;/strong&gt; As long as the existing surface is clean and matt subsequent finishes should bond to it acceptably well. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/13069/good-methods-for-scuffing-sanding-ready-built-furniture-with-contours-for-repain/13074#13074&quot;&gt;Good methods for scuffing/sanding ready-built furniture with contours for repainting&lt;/a&gt; for a little more detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; For the record, I'm dubious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; And it &lt;em&gt;still&lt;/em&gt; didn't remove all of it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-09-23T13:46:47.077" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14132" CreationDate="2022-09-23T16:36:33.873" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/14133/93&quot;&gt;Caleb's excellent points&lt;/a&gt;, an additional drawback to edge joined legs is that &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; of the weight on the table is borne by the fasteners and a thin strip of wood (left in the top above the fastener) instead of being transferred directly to the leg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a look at the kind of fasteners needed to support that kind of weight, look at a deck. The ledger board (holding up the house-side of the deck) is attached to the house structure with multiple 3/8 - 1/2&amp;quot; lag bolts (or newer &amp;quot;structural screws&amp;quot; that are thinner than the equivalent lag bolt but many times thicker than a &amp;quot;standard&amp;quot; woodworking screw).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Granted, a deck has to hold many people (and sometimes a hot tub), while your table only has to hold up a couple of drunken friends who rudely decide to sit on it, but there's still a lot of weight relying on the shear strength of a couple of screws at each corner with &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; little wood above them preventing them from tearing out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An edge join into a (nominal) 1&amp;quot; table top would leave somewhere in the neighborhood of 1/4&amp;quot; of wood above the screw. That will easily tear out if a 200 lb person were to sit on it, very easily if he were to &amp;quot;drop&amp;quot; on it and not sit gently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mention an added benefit of extra stability. Unless the table is &lt;em&gt;extremely&lt;/em&gt; narrow, it's unlikely that mounting the leg to the edge of the table top would add enough extra width to significantly alter the stability of the table. Even if you did, the issues noted in Caleb's answer would probably offset any stability gains anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2022-09-27T15:29:00.490" LastActivityDate="2022-09-27T15:29:00.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14141" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-23T23:22:11.990" Score="0" ViewCount="195" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you treat both the marine plywood and concrete plywood with an edge sealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would last longer out in the rain...marine plywood painted with exterior paint....or concrete plywood which comes with epoxy already applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the most durable would be the marine plywood with epoxy but I hate applying epoxy.  Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12557" LastEditorUserId="12557" LastEditDate="2022-09-23T23:22:32.133" LastActivityDate="2022-10-16T13:29:30.653" Title="Marine plywood or concrete plywood for rot resistance" Tags="|plywood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14141" CreationDate="2022-09-24T05:20:59.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; get anything like a definitive answer to this since plywood is now so notorious for how much it varies within a given class. As a result, even if you managed to find an existing head-to-head comparison that looked thorough (best of luck with that!) it may not tell you anything that is actually directly applicable to your situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If what you're doing is really critical probably the best advice is to run some tests of your own, assuming you have the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have the lead time then &amp;quot;you pays your money and you takes your chance&amp;quot; as the saying goes. But FWIW consider that concrete-form plywood, although expected to withstand getting wet regularly, is not actually made for continuous exposure to the elements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, assuming you buy a reliable brand I doubt you'll be disappointed in the performance of the marine-grade if treated right; this seems like it's right in its wheelhouse :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With edges sealed well with CPES (probably the best sealant option, assuming no UV exposure) I think you're likely to get the best long-term durability. If any edges are exposed to UV they should be further coated with something to protect the epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that upkeep will be necessary if a long service life is your intention, this means regular refreshing or renewal of the chosen topcoat (possibly annual in the case of transparent finishes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-10-16T13:29:30.653" LastActivityDate="2022-10-16T13:29:30.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14143" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-26T19:14:58.080" Score="1" ViewCount="209" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to make 5 by 2 computer table. For mentioned design what should be thickness of plywood?, also I am trying to adjust table in 8 by 4 plywood sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Design:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uzjyp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uzjyp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Design&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measurements are in Foot, (12 Inch = 1 Foot)&#xA;Max weight on table : 80 KG - 100 KG&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rRUgD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rRUgD.png&quot; alt=&quot;Example&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12563" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2022-09-26T20:43:24.517" LastActivityDate="2022-10-28T13:16:16.297" Title="Design : Plywood table for computer" Tags="|design|plywood|table-making|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14145" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-26T19:40:21.500" Score="1" ViewCount="243" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of Chinese mortising jigs on the market which work by mounting a trim router,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k4rQ3Jnbk9I&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GANWEI 2-In-1 Slotting Wood Trimming Machine Holder - Banggood Tool Sets&#xA;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Zn7ZDscblg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tianli Mortising Jig&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given this model of mortising jig, is there any disadvantage to this over a Festool DOMINO? I don't see any professional woodworking channels using non-DOMINO mortising jigs, but it's not clear why? &lt;strong&gt;Other than the cost saving, is there any benefit of these jigs when compared to the Festool DOMINO? Are there any disadvantages?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11848" LastEditorUserId="11848" LastEditDate="2022-09-26T21:16:14.430" LastActivityDate="2022-09-27T13:50:54.170" Title="Downside to Mortising Jigs against Festool DOMINO?" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14143" CreationDate="2022-09-26T20:49:47.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For mentioned design what should be thickness of plywood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most people would choose 3/4&amp;quot; (18mm) plywood for a project like this because it's thick enough to be relatively sturdy (1/2&amp;quot; plywood would flex too much for a desktop), and it's readily available (you can get a sheet at any home center). Other thicknesses, like 1 1/4&amp;quot;, are available from specialty plywood dealers, and thicker material would certainly make a nice desk, but it'd also be heavier and more expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-09-26T20:49:47.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14143" CreationDate="2022-09-26T21:22:09.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The default choice for many here would be 3/4&amp;quot; or 18mm plywood, but as in a lot of other applications that's for a range of reasons and &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; because it's the minimum thickness that is suitable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional support provided for the top makes all the difference in desks of this basic type and I think both designs could easily be done in 1/2&amp;quot; or 13mm plywood if it's good quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This assumes typical loads however&lt;/strong&gt;. The weight range given at the bottom of your cut diagram is by no means a typical load for a computer desk, even if you were planning on positioning the case on the top behind a large CRT monitor!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-09-26T21:22:09.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14149" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14151" CreationDate="2022-09-27T03:58:42.220" Score="2" ViewCount="1069" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building my workbench, and I have a couple of Arauco softwood plywood that I glued together. On top of them, I want to place a hardboard that I can remove when its beat up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am considering different ways to place this hardboard on top of the plywood, and I want to avoid gluing so it's easier to replace when needed. I am not familiar with the concept of edging, and I would like to understand how to install a solid wood-edging to hold these pieces together, and make it easier to remove the hardboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice that I asked this question based on the explicit unknowns on how to do the solid-wood edging written on &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/7291/affixing-masonite-to-plywood-by-example/7292?noredirect=1#comment31427_7292&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12492" OwnerDisplayName="Nobita" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2022-09-28T18:25:37.393" LastActivityDate="2022-09-28T18:25:37.393" Title="How to solid-edge plywood and hardboard for top of workbench?" Tags="|workbench|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14145" CreationDate="2022-09-27T13:50:54.170" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than the cost saving, is there any benefit of these jigs when compared to the Festool DOMINO? Are there any disadvantages?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are lots of differences. One is a power tool that's part of an integrated system and which includes motor, cutter, a fence that's adjustable to different angles, tools, and a well-designed container to hold everything. The other is a jig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One is a Festool product, so you can expect to pay a premium price for a tool that works extremely well and plays nicely with other Festool products, notably their line of excellent dust extractors, and you can expect a high level of support if you ever have a problem. The other is sold on Ebay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't own a Domino or either of the jigs you linked to, so I can't say first-hand how the mortises they produce compare. My expectation is that the Festool will work very well, and the quality you get from the jigs will depend in large part on the router and bit that you use with them. One obvious difference in operation is that the Domino continually moves the bit back and forth as you make the cut; the jigs require the user to move the tool. It's hard to tell whether the resulting mortises will vary significantly, but using the Domino looks to be a bit quicker and more convenient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Price is obviously a huge advantage for the jigs. At around $195, they cost about %20 of what the cheapest Domino system does. Although you still have to supply the router and bit, many woodworkers may already have those on hand. At that price, many hobbyists will be happy to sacrifice a bit of convenience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-09-27T13:50:54.170" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14149" CreationDate="2022-09-27T13:53:00.613" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Edging is typically glued. Wood glue is not the best option for this due to the plywood edge not being a great surface to glue to, so contact cement is more typical (and most ready made edging use some variation of that).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, for a workbench I would forgo edging entirely and just bevel the plywood edge a bit to avoid the sharp angle (that would also be fragile). If you do want to edge the plywood on your workbench, I would glue and screw (or staple/nail) or even just screw - exposed fasteners are okay for a workbench, in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the hardboard, either leave it floating (trapped by the edging) or screw it down with a small amount of fasteners (I'd probably use 1 in each corner and maybe a couple more in the middle if the workbench is wide enough). As you said, the hardboard should be easy to swap out when its too beat up, so gluing is off the table (no pun intended) and fasteners should be easily removable (so no nails or staples).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2022-09-27T13:53:00.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14149" CreationDate="2022-09-27T18:40:21.407" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's probably worth highlighting that, as mentioned in the linked Answer, solid-wood edging provides a solid bump in the looks department as well as protecting the relatively fragile edges of the MDF or plywood:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rt6xl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rt6xl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Solid-wood edging on workbench tops&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used straight hardwood plywood extensively for temporary work surfaces and the edges do get chewed up pretty badly by many operations, leading to flakes and splinters; even banging into them with your clamps takes its toll over time. This could only be worse with softwood ply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So while it's not absolutely necessary I would think it would be very beneficial for your bench to add edging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to understand how to install a solid wood-edging to hold these pieces together, and make it easier to remove the hardboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you're overthinking this, you're just attaching strips of wood to the edges of a rectangle after all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure this is one of those things that if you set to doing it it would just come together — you'd problem solve as you went, and before you knew it the first strip would be attached. The rest would just follow naturally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some tips and suggestions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ideally for durability the edging should be a decently strong hardwood, but many people (including myself) have used softwood&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use tempered hardboard if you can get it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can glue, glue-and-nail, glue-and-screw, nail or screw the strips into place as you prefer&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you don't manage to get to top of your edging dead even with your hardboard insert you can scrape it flush if it's just barely out. If there's a bit more to remove a handplane can work well, just a few shavings might be enough. This can also be done very accurately &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/13636/aligning-table-top-veneer-with-solid-wood-frame/13638#13638&quot;&gt;with a router&lt;/a&gt;, and this would be the fastest method if you leave yourself a generous allowance on the edging.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After you're flush, chamfer or round over your arrises. The softer the wood you use the more important this is.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Even common pine was acceptably durable for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; I used screws only for my edging strips because, like the hardboard they hold in place, they are intended to be sacrificial and can easily be replaced when necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-09-27T18:40:21.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14153" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-28T01:27:08.050" Score="4" ViewCount="1440" Body="&lt;p&gt;Found this site searching for &amp;quot;loose arbor nut.&amp;quot; A couple of years ago several subscribers mentioned that the arbor nut on their DeWalt jobsite saw (DWE7491) repeatedly came loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unaware of this, I just bought a used one and discovered that my saw has the same problem. As a second owner there is no warranty coverage, although I was sent a replacement arbor nut. Didn't help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I replaced the arbor nut and also cleaned the shaft, washer, nut, and blade (blade had a little residue from resin removal), but none seemed to have oil/grease on them. Checked threads on the arbor and they looked fine (not a machinist, though, so check was just visual). Started saw a couple of times following that and nut remained tight, but didn't try to cut anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did anyone find out, definitively, what causes that problem and what it takes to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a response/acknowledgment from DeWalt about this problem? Dewalt rep I talked to suggested taking the saw to a service center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12566" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2022-09-30T17:37:59.717" LastActivityDate="2023-02-07T06:15:02.953" Title="Is there a known solution to the arbor nut on my DeWalt jobsite saw coming loose?" Tags="|table-saw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14154" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14155" CreationDate="2022-09-28T22:49:59.373" Score="0" ViewCount="182" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why is pine plywood known as &amp;quot;sanded&amp;quot;? To my touch, it doesn't feel any more sanded than other species of plywood veneers. And in any case, what would be the benefit of sanding plywood at the factory?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5067" LastActivityDate="2022-09-29T06:06:31.480" Title="Why do they sand pine plywood" Tags="|plywood|sanding|veneer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14154" CreationDate="2022-09-29T06:06:31.480" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is pine plywood known as &amp;quot;sanded&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because it has been sanded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does not feel any smoother than other plywoods because other plywoods are also sanded at factory. It is just not specified. As @EliIser says in comments compare to similar plywood unsanded, it is very rough!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The manufacture of softwood or hardwood plywood consists of nine main processes: log storage, log debarking and bucking, heating the logs, peeling the logs into veneers, drying the veneers, gluing the veneers together, pressing the veneers in a hot press, plywood cutting, &lt;strong&gt;and other finishing processes such as sanding&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www3.epa.gov/ttnchie1/ap42/ch10/final/c10s05.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The wet strips of veneer are wound into a roll, while an optical scanner detects any unacceptable defects in the wood. Once dried the veneer is graded and stacked. Selected sections of veneer are glued together. A hot press is used to seal the veneer into one solid piece of plywood, which will be trimmed &lt;strong&gt;and sanded&lt;/strong&gt; before being stamped with its appropriate grade.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.madehow.com/Volume-4/Plywood.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And in any case, what would be the benefit of sanding plywood at the factory?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously it is to smooth surface, but it is also for thickness control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Once the plywood passes quality control, &lt;strong&gt;it will then be sanded to make sure the surface has a smooth surface and its thickness uniform&lt;/strong&gt;. Depending on market specifications, the plywood can either be sanded on the face side or both face and back sides. After sanding, the plywood will then be trimmed to its final size.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.famitchell.com.au/how-is-plywood-made/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10942" LastActivityDate="2022-09-29T06:06:31.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14156" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-30T20:38:35.003" Score="2" ViewCount="162" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made the plunge to buy a CNC'd MFT top, but it's just a sheet of MDF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't currently have my shed set up to have any sort of proper workbench, so I'm thinking of making some sort of low base for it that I can use on top of my folding occasion table etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen something like the UJK base, but it's a tad expensive&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jPPMb.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jPPMbm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also seen some people use extruded aluminium:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0fNjm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0fNjmm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I'm unsure which way to go and could do with some advice either way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On one hand, a wooden base would be (potentially) to make myself - pocket-holing my way to an uneven mess. But on the other I do like the sound of the aluminium frame - I'm just not sure which profile to get... I have seen that I can get reasonably priced extrusion from &lt;a href=&quot;https://ooznest.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ooznest&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aluminium-profile.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;aluminium-profile&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, this would have to be portable and storeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice would be much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8149" LastActivityDate="2022-09-30T20:38:35.003" Title="Simple MFT base (that isn't a workbench)" Tags="|workbench|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14159" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-04T17:53:45.830" Score="1" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I compare softwood like douglas fir, I try to pick wood that is straight and doesn't have too many knots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I find several pieces of wood, should I then go for the darker colored wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume the darker colored pieces are more likely to be heartwood and they should be more rot resistant no?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12580" LastEditorUserId="12580" LastEditDate="2022-10-04T17:54:47.057" LastActivityDate="2022-10-08T19:30:03.510" Title="Should I pick the darker colored wood at the lumber yard?" Tags="|softwood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14160" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-06T15:10:37.650" Score="0" ViewCount="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a small desktop for my son. He wants it gray so I am using poplar with a General Finishes gel stain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am going to CNC his initials on top and then pour an epoxy in there for an inlay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, if I gel stain after sanding down the epoxy will any if the stain stick to the epoxy? I do not want that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or am I just missing an obvious solution here in my order of work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any input is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12591" LastActivityDate="2022-10-06T15:10:37.650" Title="Epoxy inlay on gel stained desktop" Tags="|staining|epoxy|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2022-10-06T16:08:00.673" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14161" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14162" CreationDate="2022-10-07T22:47:05.193" Score="3" ViewCount="225" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider the following sliding panel table saw:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kwZSPl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kwZSPl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually clamp the piece to the sliding panel and then smugly push it into the cutting disc with one finger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;However, when making rip cuts, it is quite tedious to align the board perfectly parallel to the disc. I was wondering if I can use the rip fence to align the piece.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a very similar table saw and the manual says that when you use the rip fence, the sliding panel has to be locked in place. Is there a reason for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems very suspicious that even the most hi-tech models have the rip fence invariably on the non-moving part of the saw only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5579" LastActivityDate="2022-10-08T21:26:42.773" Title="Can you make rip cuts using the rip fence and sliding panel at the same time?" Tags="|table-saw|rip-cut|fence|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14161" CreationDate="2022-10-08T19:21:45.547" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a very similar table saw and the manual says that when you use the rip fence, the sliding panel has to be locked in place. Is there a reason for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never used a European-style table saw like that, so your mileage (kilometerage?) may vary, but in general with table saws you use &lt;em&gt;either&lt;/em&gt; the rip fence &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; the miter gauge/sliding table, never both at the same time. The idea is that as you make a cut, one part of the workpiece (generally the one you want to keep) is constrained by the guide (again, the rip fence or miter gauge or sliding table), and the part on the other side of the blade should be free to fall away from the blade as soon as the cut finishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you're using the sliding table, the offcut will naturally move away from the blade slightly as the cut finishes, but it won't be able to do that if the rip fence is supporting it, and it's much more likely that a kickback will happen in that case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same idea is even more important when crosscutting. Let's say you're trying to cut several 100 mm blocks off the end of a long board. It seems like you could set the rip fence at 100 mm, set the board against the miter fence, and rapidly cut blocks by making a cut, sliding board over to hit the rip fence, making another cut, and so on. The problem is that those blocks are trapped between the blade and rip fence, and they could easily become projectiles if they happen to catch on the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; do, though, is to clamp a small block of wood against the rip fence near the front of the table, and then set the fence so that the left side of that block is 100 mm from the cut line. Now it's fairly safe to cut the blocks as described above, using the block clamped to the fence as the stop block to position the board before each cut. In this arrangement, the fence isn't right up against the blocks as they're cut, so there's nothing keeping the blocks right next to the spinning blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when making rip cuts, it is quite tedious to align the board perfectly parallel to the disc. I was wondering if I can use the rip fence to align the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're making a rip cut (i.e. cutting along the length of a board), skip the sliding table and use the rip fence -- that's what it's for. The rip fence is obviously long, and it provides lots of support for the side of the workpiece as you slide it along. The sliding table is for crosscuts, where the long side of the board is perpendicular to the blade and parallel to the miter fence (the thing that you've got marked with a question mark).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2022-10-08T21:26:42.773" LastActivityDate="2022-10-08T21:26:42.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14159" CreationDate="2022-10-08T19:30:03.510" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume the darker colored pieces are more likely to be heartwood and they should be more rot resistant no?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think that's necessarily a valid assumption. As far as I know, heartwood &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; generally darker than sapwood, but if you're picking through the lumber at your local home center and one board is darker than another, it's likely that they're just from two different trees, or one has been lying around longer, or one was on the outside of the bundle when it rained during transport, or something like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, any differences in rot resistance related to the color of the wood are likely to be pretty unreliable. If you need rot resistance for whatever you're building, buy material that's actually known to be rot resistant, i.e. either pressure treated lumber, or cypress or other species that are naturally rot resistant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-10-08T19:30:03.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14164" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-10T09:30:57.947" Score="3" ViewCount="400" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am an amateur level woodworker, looking to cut a curved recess into a piece of wood, which I will then be using as a &amp;quot;back&amp;quot; to display a drinks bottle, in a similar style to the picture below, but with the back curve of the bottle nestling into the recess shape in the wood.  The curved recess therefore needs to be the same approx size and curve as the length of the bottle back.  Any tips or suggestions much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LQKhc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LQKhc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottle display&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12600" LastActivityDate="2022-10-11T07:56:49.060" Title="Cutting curved recess" Tags="|technique|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14164" CreationDate="2022-10-10T14:25:04.430" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The curved recess therefore needs to be the same approx size and curve as the length of the bottle back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're just making one, get some gouges and just carve the recess. Lay out the outline, maybe use a drill press to drill holes to the desired depths on a grid, and then get to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're making many, either buy a small CNC router to do the work, or buy or build a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/carving-duplicator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;router duplicator&lt;/a&gt; so that once you've made one, you can quickly make as many copies as you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're making a small-ish number, maybe visit your local maker space or find a friend who has a suitable CNC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-10-10T14:25:04.430" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14164" CreationDate="2022-10-10T15:20:17.650" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I was making 1 or 2, I'd take my angle grinder with a flapper disk (sand paper flaps) and just grind it out.  Would probably start with a practice piece, takes a little getting used to the first time.  But a 4 1/2&amp;quot; angle grinder should make a decently close arc for a wine bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OUEXv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OUEXv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Graphus pointed out, while this is probably the fastest way to get what you are looking for, some safety precautions should be considered and accounted for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This throws a lot of sawdust into the air so you will want a well ventilated area and a dust mask, maybe some safety googles as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This is a high speed torque handheld machine.  you want to make sure the piece you are working on is clamped down well so it won't move.  The piece can be spun and shot across a work shop in the blink of an eye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Once again it is a high speed torque machine that you hold and control with your hands.  start with a test piece and get used to it.  make sure you have the reversible handle attached and use it as well, it makes a big difference in being able to control where the grinder travels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2022-10-10T18:54:11.083" LastActivityDate="2022-10-10T18:54:11.083" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14164" CreationDate="2022-10-10T18:34:44.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you're trying to do is &amp;quot;cut a cove&amp;quot; in the wood. There are a multitude of techniques for this, but the most available is likely to involve a table saw. If you don't have a table saw, you could use a router. Either one of these power tools will likely have a multitude of videos available on YouTube showing how it can be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Table Saw&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cove cutting on a table saw requires moving the wood at an angle relative to the blade. Instead of the axis of motion being parallel to the axis of cutting, it will be at an angle usually between 15 and 40 degrees (could be more, could be less, depending on the &amp;quot;curve&amp;quot; you want). This will require a temporary fence set at an angle, and a great deal of fiddling to get all the positioning stuff exactly right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a video demonstrating cutting a cove with a table saw:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/vVlvwJelz9s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/vVlvwJelz9s&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here is a page that will help you print a chart of settings for cove cutting: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodgears.ca/cove/calculate.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://woodgears.ca/cove/calculate.html&lt;/a&gt; (There is a link from that page to a how-to article on the same site for more details.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cove cutting on a table saw is very sensitive to the tooth bevel, if any. If you are using a dedicated ATB saw blade, you might want to change it out for a different bevel. A FTG blade, or ATBR/&amp;quot;Combo&amp;quot; blade, you will probably be okay. If you are just using the blade that came with the saw, it's likely a combo blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The take-away from that is that you should run some test cuts, and you should &lt;strong&gt;finish&lt;/strong&gt; at least one of your test pieces, to ensure that you know how deep to cut and how much depth to leave alone so you can sand away any tooth marks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Router&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three ways to cut a cove with a router. The first is to make the entire cut with a dedicated bit. These bits are usually pretty small - the overall width is probable limited to a bit over an inch, max. (Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/9d6f4676-90b5-44de-8e80-d84cb3e28744_1.97616853cb4b74bfb1519ddf7cc6f9d7.jpeg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1&amp;quot; bit&lt;/a&gt;, notice the head/shank ratio.) These are okay for &amp;quot;fluting&amp;quot; but probably not what you want for gentle coves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second way is with an edging cove bit. This bit comes with a guide bearing at the end of the bit and is intended to ride along a smooth edge, cutting a cove shape along the edge. (Here's &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rockler.com/media/catalog/product/cache/e48bc02676090cdee0f5e795d38346da/2/1/21522-01-1000.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;an example&lt;/a&gt;. ) Because these bits can be quite wide, you will generally find them with a thicker shank and you will have to slow down the router speed when using them. (If you have a &amp;quot;one speed&amp;quot; router, you might be able to find an external speed control for a plug-in unit, or you might have to buy or borrow a different router. &lt;strong&gt;This is no joke:&lt;/strong&gt; using a wide router bit at too high a speed can result in a really angry piece of sharpened steel flying at your face. Don't do it!) My suggestion with this setup would be to split your wood in two, use the cove bit on matching sides, and then glue the pieces back together. Be aware that for best results with these bits, you'll definitely want a router table setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, a third way would be to build some sort of sled or jig to let you &amp;quot;swing&amp;quot; the entire router body like a pendulum. You would then use a simple square bit to do the cutting, and move the entire thing along the wood a little at a time. This would let you do the cutting on any kind of router (almost - unusual body shapes might make it hard to build an appropriate jig, or to balance it) with just a cheap, common bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1925" LastActivityDate="2022-10-10T18:34:44.933" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14169" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14170" CreationDate="2022-10-11T18:49:22.703" Score="3" ViewCount="367" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wooden legs of my Ikea Lauters lamp came loose and I need some advice how to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how the lamp looks like - you see the wooden legs:&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xNSWa.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xNSWa.png&quot; alt=&quot;the lamp&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 3 legs each have a wooden &amp;quot;peg&amp;quot; that enters in a hole in the wooden disk and also a hole through which a screw connects to a nut that was fixed in that disk:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TBLWO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TBLWO.png&quot; alt=&quot;screws&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is the nut that was inside the disk came off and there's no way to fix it back in the wooden disk. You see, the outer &amp;quot;teeth&amp;quot; of the nut must have eaten the wood away:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yvSor.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yvSor.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas how to fix this? I'm a total newbie. One solution would be to glue the nut and the leg but I don't know what glue to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12607" LastEditorUserId="3985" LastEditDate="2022-10-11T19:07:31.437" LastActivityDate="2022-11-11T19:55:29.117" Title="How to fix Ikea wooden lamp" Tags="|wood|joinery|glue|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14169" CreationDate="2022-10-11T20:01:24.887" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few different ways to go about fixing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;replace the 'disk' with a new piece of wood and drill all the holes etc to 'recreate it'.  &amp;quot;Most work&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;drill the hole out (maybe with a forsner bit) and glue in a plug of the same size as the drilled hole, then redrill the smaller hole and reinsert the 'insert'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;fill the current hole with glue and sawdust, after it sets, redrill the pilot hole and reinsert the insert (least effective)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use epoxy to 'glue' the insert back in.  Make sure you have a bolt in the insert so the insert doesn't get filled with the epoxy or alternatively, fill the hole with epoxy then redrill it and put the insert back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would personally tend toward #1, but #4 would be a close second, and depending on materials, and tools available, #4 becomes much more appealing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2022-10-11T20:01:24.887" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14171" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-13T13:35:47.240" Score="4" ViewCount="608" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am beginner/intermediate in woodworking and I am busy replacing my drawer sliders and hinges in my kitchen cupboards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have noticed that the hardware I'm using has got oval screw holes in addition to circular ones.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lYVyp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lYVyp.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;My guess is that they are used to be able to adjust the direction vertically/horizontally so that I can adjust the position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when both vertical and horizontal oval holes are available, which one do I pick?&#xA;I can't use both at the same time, so I have to pick one dimension I can 'adjust'. How do I decide which dimension to pick?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, are these designed so that I use every hole in the hardware to attach, or can I skip the vertical if I use the horizontal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I apologise if this is too simple of a question, but I have searched this site and googled and I can't find anything about these holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8677" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2022-10-14T16:34:58.307" LastActivityDate="2022-10-14T17:50:05.140" Title="How do I use the oval screw holes in drawer sliders?" Tags="|drawer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14153" CreationDate="2022-10-13T21:45:46.813" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you've probably found during your own search, you're not the only one to report a problem with the arbor nut on this saw. Here are a couple examples that I found in just a minute or two:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.productreview.com.au/questions/6b1966b0-526f-465b-82c9-186f3d1fd33a&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;One user reported the blade coming off entirely&lt;/a&gt; while the saw was running, resulting in damage to the saw. Someone replying to that message also says that their arbor nut becomes loose after a while, and suggests retightening it periodically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.productreview.com.au/questions/4e33c5b6-c3d9-58fe-bdaf-e111493b88de&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Another user on the same page&lt;/a&gt; thinks it's strange that Dewalt doesn't advertise the saw's braking feature. To me, that suggests that at least in some cases the saw may stop spinning quickly, which would explain the arbor nut coming loose. Perhaps some of these saws have bad bearings in either the arbor assembly or the motor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R3VX2NVJLUI6V7/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;ASIN=B00F2CGXGG&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;A review on Amazon&lt;/a&gt; admits that the blade only comes off &amp;quot;sometimes.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At least seven different users commented on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/q/10582/492&quot;&gt;suggested duplicate&lt;/a&gt; to say that they've had the same problem with the same saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to answer the title question, it sounds like the problem is known to at least some users, but not admitted to by Dewalt. I don't think it matters that you're not the original owner — a table saw that's known to  have a problem with the blade coming off in operation is downright dangerous, and certainly defective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were in your shoes, I'd write to Dewalt explaining the problem, and I'd attach copies of the reports linked above as well as any others you may have found as evidence that there's a problem. If you have the time, you might also do some testing to quantify the problem -- maybe use a torque wrench to tighten the nut to known, repeatable setting, and then see how many times you have to start and stop the saw before the nut becomes loose. I'd also be sure to send a copy of the letter, attachments, and data to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cpsc.gov&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;CPSC&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2022-10-13T22:00:02.790" LastActivityDate="2022-10-13T22:00:02.790" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14171" CreationDate="2022-10-14T17:50:05.140" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I use the oval screw holes in drawer sliders?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the ones that suit you best. Drawer slides typically have more holes than you need because they need to adapt to lots of different situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that they are used to be able to adjust the direction vertically/horizontally so that I can adjust the position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree. Drawer slides often come with a sheet of installation instructions, and all the ones I can remember seeing have called the oval holes adjustment holes or similar. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-how-to/doors-drawers/drawer-slides-demystified&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's an article from Wood Magazine&lt;/a&gt; that says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many slides come with multiple holes and slots to allow fine-tuning&#xA;drawer position and accommodate a variety of mounting options...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; think that the oval holes are really meant to accommodate seasonal movement. Most of the solid wood drawer sides that I've ever seen have the grain running parallel to the length of the side, and while wood does move a little bit radially and tangentially, it really doesn't change much in the direction of the grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when both vertical and horizontal oval holes are available, which one do I pick? I can't use both at the same time, so I have to pick one dimension I can 'adjust'. How do I decide which dimension to pick?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, use the ones that make sense for your situation. As long as the drawer fits and slides smoothly, nobody's going to say that you did it wrong. For example, if you want a bit of adjustment both horizontally and vertically, you could use the horizontal holes on the case sides and the vertical holes on the drawer sides. If you then find that you're happy with the horizontal position but need more vertical adjustment than you've got, drive some screws into the vertical slots on the case side and remove the horizontal ones. Or, if you're using a jig to install the slides and have a lot of confidence that the jig will get the position right, use the round holes and skip the oval ones entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, are these designed so that I use every hole in the hardware to attach, or can I skip the vertical if I use the horizontal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, you don't need screws in every hole. I'd install one screw for each set of holes. For example, the slide in the image you provided has three groups of holes on the drawer side, with each group having a round hole and a horizontal and vertical oval hole, so I'd install one screw in each of those groups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-10-14T17:50:05.140" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14174" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-15T02:19:43.263" Score="1" ViewCount="704" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YGcQH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YGcQH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;I want to build some kitchen cabinets after my house flooded a few years ago and the old cabinets were removed. The fear of another flood coming makes me want to build them from from solid wood instead of plywood, thinking plywood will fare worse after a flood. I read in the old days they built cabinets like this, &amp;quot;stick built&amp;quot; they called them. I was going to build the front frame out of pine 1x4s, on top of 2x4s as the kickboard, held together with pocket screws. Then horizontal boards as shelf supports and for the drawer slides to screw into. I wanna do Euro style frameless plywood doors but my fear is that the wood frame will expand and contract and mess up the fit of my doors. I can see it not mattering as much with face frame cabinets but I really want the frameless look. Perhaps 1x4s won't be strong enough as the vertical boards. The countertop will be formica, maybe it won't be too heavy. The countertop will be supported on the back wall by a 2x4 screwed to the studs. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vX4jq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vX4jq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12614" LastEditorUserId="12614" LastEditDate="2022-10-15T04:22:25.670" LastActivityDate="2022-11-15T15:51:54.460" Title="Should I build cabinets out of 1x4s?" Tags="|cabinetry|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14174" CreationDate="2022-10-15T03:42:25.893" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;1x4s have no structural role at all. This means they are pretty much completely unregulated. Their small size means they can come from pretty much any piece of crap wood. They are usually crooked in one dimension or another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that you mill or cut down (resaw) 2x lumber, at least that way you know the wood met some kind of quality standards before you started. And hopefully, you can locate straight segments to start with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speaking of straight, you may have to make some or all of your &amp;quot;legs&amp;quot; into L-shaped pieces to prevent bowing, which may affect what designs you can reasonably make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1925" LastActivityDate="2022-10-15T03:42:25.893" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14176" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14177" CreationDate="2022-10-15T06:54:46.483" Score="3" ViewCount="182" Body="&lt;p&gt;I turned a mesquite bowl to near final dimensions on my lathe, then filled some defects with epoxy. The defects were in end grain areas. After turning it flush and removing enough wood that there are no visible epoxy stains outside of the inlays, it looks like there may be areas of end grain where the wood pores have been filled with epoxy (only visible when looking very close). Will the wood still absorb polymerized linseed oil evenly, or should I use another finish, like shellac? I used tape dams, so most of the bowl was spared from being unnecessarily coated in epoxy, but not all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10629" LastActivityDate="2022-10-15T17:47:46.530" Title="Can I oil wood if the pores are full of epoxy?" Tags="|finishing|oiling|epoxy|end-grain|woodturning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14176" CreationDate="2022-10-15T09:32:41.267" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the wood still absorb polymerized linseed oil evenly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is very firmly a &lt;em&gt;maybe&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes visible filled grain/pores do indicate that if you oil (or use a finish that acts similarly to 'wet' the wood) you will get a very noticeable pale area, which is obviously what you want to avoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good news is you don't need to try it and see with oil, you can use anything that will wet the wood as it will give you a preview of the effect. This of course includes water, but you'll probably want to use something that won't raise the grain so instead denatured alcohol (UK: meths), mineral spirits (UK: white spirit) or acetone/lacquer thinner are the usual alternatives, in very approximate order of frequency of use&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you see the dreaded pale area then just wait for the solvent to evaporate and go with shellac if that's your preferred alternative finish to polymerised linseed. FWIW the final effect may not be &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; different&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Although not in order of preference. Unless you're planning on using a water-bourne final finish I don't believe there really is any practical reason to prefer one over another except in drying time; and unless you're terminally impatient :-) this is really only a factor on large areas that you want to assess all at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Nerdy finishing geek-out: while oil &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; frequently give the absolute maximum 'pop' to grain, maximising contrast and chatoyance, shellac is no slouch in this department. And with some wood oiling before applying film finishes like shellac, varnish or nitro lacquer doesn't do much, certainly not enough to warrant the extra step and its associated 'drying' time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="32" LastEditDate="2022-10-15T17:47:46.530" LastActivityDate="2022-10-15T17:47:46.530" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14178" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14179" CreationDate="2022-10-15T16:28:46.677" Score="4" ViewCount="955" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made some kitchen cabinet doors (1x3 maple boards on the outside, t&amp;amp;g joints, 1/4&amp;quot; plywood center panel glued into the groove). The doors are stained and finished in poly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I installed them, and realized that one of them has a pronounced twist. Serves me right for not clamping it flat while I was gluing it up. The upper corner on the non-hinge side is sitting about 3/8&amp;quot; from the cabinet body when the door is closed. The defect is too big to disguise by playing with the hinge adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm looking for a way to straighten the door. I found some articles online, but I don't know which course I should follow. Or if it would be less work to just build a new door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0b0uY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0b0uY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems like it would work, but I'm not sure how to calculate the amount of curvature. I'd probably have to go through a lot of trial and error while cutting the cleat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CBUwd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CBUwd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is easy to adjust, but I can't tell if it's supposed to fix twist, or if it's just intended for doors that are sagging (out of square).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, some people say I could clamp it in a jig that twists it in the opposite direction and leave it sitting there for a while - but others say that doesn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12348" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-10-16T12:47:28.237" LastActivityDate="2022-10-16T12:47:28.237" Title="How to fix a twisted cabinet door" Tags="|cabinetry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14178" CreationDate="2022-10-15T18:46:12.437" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; this Answer is predicated on the door being unfinished. As it has now been revealed that the door has stain and poly on it some of the tips don't apply but I'm leaving it as-is for future searchers who may be looking for help on a similar issue and whose doors &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; still bare wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3/8&amp;quot; is quite a lot, but perhaps still not too much to take out by counter-clamping or other remedial action. The thing is there's no way to determine whether anything is going to work other than actually trying it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No amount of advice on this front — from experienced users or not — will actually tell you what'll happen with &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; door. Even if various someones who have successfully done this before had the door in front of them none could unerringly predict the outcome. They can give you their various educated guesses sure, but those are still guesses..... which is precisely why there's a 100% chance they'll vary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is sort of summarised neatly by something in your Question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, some people say I could clamp it in a jig that twists it in the opposite direction and leave it sitting there for a while - but others say that doesn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is it in a nutshell: it most certainly &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; work, but it hasn't for everyone who has tried it. Well yeah, of course not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The people who are saying it doesn't work are expressing themselves poorly if they state it that flatly. Presumably they are speaking from experience, and while they mean well they're simply not accounting for just how variable things can be — just the wood itself, &lt;em&gt;no matter how predictable it might look&lt;/em&gt;, can behave very differently to other similar-looking wood. And there are a host of other variables too naturally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or if it would be less work to just build a new door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if remedial action doesn't work I don't think it could realistically be said to be less work to build a new door, unless you have milled stock ready to go already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't, as you know, you're looking at roughly cutting one or more boards to length, jointing each piece x2, planing to thickness, ripping to width, jointing or sanding that sawn surface, milling the groove and so on. That's hardly less work than putting something in clamps for a day and seeing if it fixes the problem!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know about you but I'll take a day of waiting, after a &lt;em&gt;completely trivial&lt;/em&gt; amount of effort, over doing all the steps to make a door (even a simple door like this one) on the assumption that the fix won't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the twist isn't removed or lessened enough to make the door usable really all you've lost is a day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few things that might be of help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Heat all four joints up well before clamping or attaching the bowed cleat, and then heat some more after you've put the door aside. All the glues you're likely to have used are softened by heat, with the possible exception of foaming polyurethane. If you don't have a heat gun this is still worth doing with a hairdryer on max.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you glued up using any type of PVA (white or yellow) they are softened to some degree by acetone, so applying a little here and there may also help a little. If you glued up using hide glue (any type) use water instead; do not use vinegar unless you want to try to ease the door apart into its component pieces!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Again if you glued up using PVA it's also suggested by some sources that dampening the joint area with water can help, even though this obviously has little to no effect on the PVA directly; can't hurt to try this with other glues as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Be patient, don't unclamp after just a few hours. I'd suggest waiting overnight at least (10-14 hours) and a full day wouldn't hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-10-16T12:44:54.383" LastActivityDate="2022-10-16T12:44:54.383" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14180" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-15T20:54:44.337" Score="0" ViewCount="556" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a Jarvis/Fully bamboo desktop and am trying to darken the finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do this, I started on the bottom of the desktop and tried out the steps on a small portion by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;first sanding away the previous finish&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;applying two coats of Varathane Gel Stain (picture attached), waiting a day or so before applying the 2nd coat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;putting on 5 layers of Varathane water-based interior polyurethane, waiting 2-6 hours between coats.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed the grain is a bit raised. This could be because I did not sand enough before putting on the gel stain or because the poly raised the grain. I don't remember how much I sanded to begin with, so I cannot say for sure. Regardless, I tried lightly sanding a spot with 220 grit sandpaper, against the grain (it was just a test, I know I shouldn't do this for the real thing), and I lightly sanded another spot with 400 grit sandpaper. In both cases, the &lt;strong&gt;sandpaper just about immediately took off some of the gel stain&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is this likely due to the stain being a &lt;em&gt;gel&lt;/em&gt; stain, which sits more on top of the surface than a traditional/real stain? Or do you suspect there is a different issue?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: my thought is that, for the real project, I will make sure to sand the surface up to a very high grit so the surface is very smooth. But this will not prevent the grain raise, if that was the issue in the first place. If there is grain raise, I'd like to be able to smooth it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;lightly sanding with 400 grit with the grain (notice that some stain has been removed):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Aj6Eh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Aj6Eh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;lightly sanding with 400 grit with the grain (notice that some stain has been removed)&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;lightly sanding with 220 grit against the grain (notice that some stain has been removed):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o4CRx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o4CRx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;lightly sanding with 220 grit against the grain (notice that some stain has been removed)&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Varathane Gel Stain (Kona):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TddiY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TddiY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Varathane Gel Stain (Kona)&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5314" LastActivityDate="2022-10-16T04:25:45.397" Title="light sanding of poly coated gel stain removes gel stain?" Tags="|finishing|staining|sanding|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14180" CreationDate="2022-10-16T04:25:45.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Water-based poly &lt;strong&gt;will&lt;/strong&gt; raise the grain, there's nothing to be done about that. You just have to make sure you lightly sand between coats - especially after the first coat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not 100% sure, but I don't think you actually removed the stain by sanding it. The sanded parts just look lighter because the surface is scuffed up. I bet if you put on another coat of poly, it'll darken again. Try it - if I'm wrong, all you've lost is a few cents worth of poly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12348" LastActivityDate="2022-10-16T04:25:45.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14182" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-16T11:15:27.413" Score="1" ViewCount="201" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a dodecagon (12-sided) garden planter. The 12 pieces are LHW 100mm x 63mm x 38mm. The angle of each is 105°&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for suggestions on what joint I can use.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GjsOb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GjsOb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11574" LastEditorUserId="11574" LastEditDate="2022-10-17T15:05:06.520" LastActivityDate="2022-10-17T15:05:06.520" Title="Joints for 105 degree angle?" Tags="|joints|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14183" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-16T13:02:32.250" Score="2" ViewCount="285" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started making some end-grain cutting boards recently, and my first attempt came out far better than I'd imagined. The most recent one, I decided to use Tung Oil instead of mineral oil as a finish, and the board looks like it's moldy. It's a maple/mahogany checkerboard pattern, and a lot of the maple is now discolored and splotchy, and not something I'd want to use or sell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sanded to 220 grit, rinsed with clean water to raise the grain, waited 24 hours for it to fully dry, re-sanded to 320 grit, wiped off the dust with a clean rag, and applied diluted tung oil (1:1 with citrus solvent).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the mineral oil, which has the look I want:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6HiKs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6HiKs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;maple/cherry, mineral oil finish&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the tung oil (closeup on areas that look moldy):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dDcg6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dDcg6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;maple/mahogany, tung oil finish&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to avoid this moldy / dirty look in the future? If so, how? Or is it simply a feature of the wood (the maple, in this case)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Followup: could this simply be spalting that didn't show until the tung oil was applied?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12616" LastEditorUserId="12616" LastEditDate="2022-10-19T14:21:41.437" LastActivityDate="2023-04-04T00:09:12.060" Title="Tung oil makes wood look moldy" Tags="|tung-oil|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14182" CreationDate="2022-10-16T13:49:01.350" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As noted in comments, you’ve got pretty much endless options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Off the top of my head, here’s a few.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1- no joinery at all… use hoops (like a barrel) to hold everything together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2- biscuits and glue… would require a biscuit joiner with a tiltable fence, or a benchtop jig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3- dowels and glue… would also require a jig and a bit of precision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4- screws and glue… you’ve got the material thickness. Easiest would be screwing from the exterior side, but that’s an aesthetic choice. You might be able to get the screws to work from the inside, but that might be tricky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5- tongue and groove and glue… wouldn’t do this without a tablesaw or router table. (Though milling your staves without a tablesaw would be a curse.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6- (waterproof) plywood splines and glue… slightly simpler than t&amp;amp;g, but still tool-heavy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glue should be waterproof, like titebond 2 or 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2022-10-16T13:49:01.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9872" CreationDate="2022-10-17T02:02:43.110" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In early times the fireplace mantle also served as a &amp;quot;bar&amp;quot; for the visiting &amp;quot;gentlemen&amp;quot; of the Pub or home to rest their drinks as they warmed their bodies as they enjoyed conversations of importance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12618" LastActivityDate="2022-10-17T02:02:43.110" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4988" CreationDate="2022-10-17T12:48:54.100" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drying can be accelerated by coating ends in wax and setting up a de-humidifier with its air outlet aimed at the wood stack (onto length of wood not onto the ends)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used one with great effect with the water collecting outlet via a small rubber tube out through the wall (no danger of the damp air re-moisting the wood)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also used an &amp;quot;air purifier&amp;quot; which does much the same job (with carbon filter removed) but over a longer period because the moisture isn't extracted as much&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12620" LastActivityDate="2022-10-17T12:48:54.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14187" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14188" CreationDate="2022-10-17T18:15:16.517" Score="4" ViewCount="1020" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am fitting my pantry with custom drawers, and I am worrying a bit about the weight capacity of one drawer in particular.  The drawers are 14&amp;quot; wide and 21&amp;quot; deep. I've constructed them with the front/back and sides made with 1/2&amp;quot; baltic birch plywood -  plus a prettier drawer front, but that's not really relevant.  The bottom is 1/4&amp;quot; birch veneer plywood, dadoed and glued in on all four sides. The boxes were assembled with pocket screws to join the front/back to side pieces, and supported with full length side-mount drawer slides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this should be able to handle most pantry storage needs for this size of drawer ... but the drawer I'm worrying about is the bottom one that will hold lots of bottles.  According to the online Sagulator, a &lt;em&gt;shelf&lt;/em&gt; of those dimensions made of &amp;quot;fir plywood&amp;quot; should be able to handle 50 pounds of uniformly-distributed weight no problem (and that's not accounting for the dado support on the front of the drawer) - with 'fixed ends'. With 'free ends' not so much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's sort of hard ... I find all kinds of guidance about what is &amp;quot;normal&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;light duty&amp;quot; versus &amp;quot;heavy duty&amp;quot; for drawer construction, but no quantitative indication of how much weight that really means, even approximately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the Sagulator a reasonable way to figure out drawer weight capacity?  Does a glued dado count as 'fixed ends'?. (The dadoes are not super snug, unfortunately ... not super loose but not as snug as I would have preferred). For me specifically, would this drawer construction (and size) support a drawer-full of bottles, I'm estimating maybe 30 pounds or so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;p.s. the 1/4&amp;quot; plywood has a description of &amp;quot;White or Yellow Birch Grade B2 (or equivalent) with a veneer core CARB Phase 2 compliant&amp;quot; for the inner plys, if that matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9248" LastActivityDate="2022-10-18T17:33:42.093" Title="How to determine drawer weight capacity?" Tags="|strength|weight-capacity|drawer|drawer-construction|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14187" CreationDate="2022-10-17T19:48:05.083" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the Sagulator a reasonable way to figure out drawer weight capacity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does a glued dado count as 'fixed ends'?.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you glue in yes, but the dados front and back change things completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't extrapolate from a shelf to a drawer bottom, unless you build the drawer bottom essentially the same as a shelf, which of course is rarely if ever the case and isn't the case here. There's no useful way in the Sagulator to account for the bottom being held both front and back&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. And this is even assuming you're looking at data for the same material......&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their data is for &lt;em&gt;fir&lt;/em&gt; plywood, softwood plywood, and you're using hardwood plywood. This isn't quite the same as going by the numbers for white pine when you're building using oak, but it's close ^_^&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm estimating maybe 30 pounds or so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TBH I was expecting an estimated load far more than this so it was quite a surprise when I finally got to this number! Even if you'd said 30 kilos (2.2 times more) I'd think you could be OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However this is just a judgement call, a guess. If you need some better confirmation in advance of completion I would go to one or more of the woodworking fora that has members who do drawers commercially and get their read on this&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you'd prefer to proceed immediately and want to err on the side of caution there are a few things you can do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;go with 1/2&amp;quot; material for the bottom;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;glue strips (slips), preferably in solid hardwood, along all four edges;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;add a muntin strip done the centre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have any 1/2&amp;quot; ply on hand you can simply glue two pieces of 1/4&amp;quot; together, but be sure to lightly sand the mating surfaces before glue application, don't skimp on glue, spread it evenly, and ensure good clamping pressure in the middle by some means.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the slips, I was initially thinking adding them on the underside only but given the shape of bottles you'd lose no useful storage space adding them inside the drawer as well (these ones, or all of them, can be quarter-round if you like).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While muntins generally &lt;em&gt;divide&lt;/em&gt; a drawer bottom you definitely add some useful strength even having one mounted underneath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Although it is some equivalent of the edging strip how to quantify it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; My suspicion is you'll get a range of responses from &amp;quot;try it and see&amp;quot; to &amp;quot;remake with a thicker bottom&amp;quot;, along with some saying this'll be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-10-18T17:33:42.093" LastActivityDate="2022-10-18T17:33:42.093" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11498" CreationDate="2022-10-20T17:43:14.923" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a bit late to this party, but have been experiencing a similar issue with my jointer/planer combo machine. I watched the video and it looks like he's making very shallow cuts. Shallow cuts won't encounter as much resistance from the front feed roller as you insert the material. If you're making a deeper cut, then you'll experience more resistance trying to push the material into and under the roller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your roller is out of spec with the cutter head, check for adjusting nuts on the right and left side above the planer table. They might be located behind a small removable cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a video of a different, albeit similar, machine. It might help you locate the adjustment points (assuming you're still having issues).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/O-_21RcvKt0?t=57&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/O-_21RcvKt0?t=57&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12627" LastActivityDate="2022-10-20T17:43:14.923" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14192" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14194" CreationDate="2022-10-21T15:32:39.660" Score="1" ViewCount="186" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ran across an auction of a set of Japanese bench chisels, and there wasn't a lot of info provided (and yes I bid because I'm an easy mark), so I'm trying to gather some details from the photos. The only visible markings are stamped on the chisel itself, and I'm wondering if anyone knows anything about it or has suggestions on where to look for further details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a zoomed version of the stamped markings with some photo sharpening:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pZHr9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pZHr9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;photos of two of the chisel's markings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've sent a note to the auction house for more photos of the storage box or any other identifying info, but I haven't heard back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for taking a look!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12628" LastEditorUserId="12628" LastEditDate="2022-10-21T17:31:55.843" LastActivityDate="2022-10-21T18:50:26.580" Title="Need help identifying a set of Japanese bench chisels" Tags="|tool-identification|chisel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14192" CreationDate="2022-10-21T18:43:11.240" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks to &lt;a href=&quot;https://japanese.stackexchange.com/questions/96793/need-help-identifying-a-mark-on-a-tool&quot;&gt;your Japanese Learning stack question&lt;/a&gt;, I was able to find the manufacturer. Nagahiro is the English translation according to Google.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your image rotated&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9e7IB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9e7IB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Your image rotated&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Partial image from a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.shop.kurashige-tools.com/en-us/collections/osahironagahiro-%E9%95%B7%E5%BC%98/products/old-stock-osahiro-nagahiro-early-work-dovetail-chisels-set-oirenomi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;seller&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UAqR1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UAqR1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems like a match to me; the seller site also seems to refer to is as Osahiro (Nagahiro). From what I can determine, Osahiro is the brand, but Nagahiro is the blacksmith and a well known one at that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3759" LastEditorUserId="3759" LastEditDate="2022-10-21T18:50:26.580" LastActivityDate="2022-10-21T18:50:26.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14195" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-21T22:05:37.800" Score="1" ViewCount="1237" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t0mt6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t0mt6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;Trying to get a better sense of how much weight this old TV stand can hold. I'm considering putting a 75 gallon aquarium on top which can push 850+ lbs once full.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the look of this, do you think I should be confident that this piece can handle the weight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the help!&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JHCrC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JHCrC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12631" LastActivityDate="2022-10-21T23:59:15.810" Title="Weight capacity - TV Stand" Tags="|weight-capacity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14195" CreationDate="2022-10-21T23:59:15.810" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without on-site testing, it might be a challenge to make a guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you feel about the floor being able to manage the weight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measure the width and length to get square meters or square feet and determine pounds per square foot or kilos per square meter. You could then test the weakest segment of the table, the ends/leafs with an appropriate lower weight that matches your calculations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I'll guess at 18&amp;quot; x 48&amp;quot;, or 1.5' x 4' or 6 square feet. 850 pounds divided by six is 141 and two thirds pounds per square foot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm more than 141 pounds by an unfortunate amount and I would feel reasonably comfortable standing on the open-air segment of the table. My feet would cover slightly less than one square foot which means the numbers get higher than your test value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2022-10-21T23:59:15.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14197" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14198" CreationDate="2022-10-22T09:13:54.123" Score="0" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to build a table which has these antique-style legs. However I'm still a beginner in woodworking and have no idea how I could create legs like these. Which tools and techniques would allow me to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8C76K.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8C76K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12633" LastActivityDate="2022-10-22T13:31:37.323" Title="Making shaped legs with varying diameters" Tags="|technique|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14197" CreationDate="2022-10-22T13:31:37.323" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main piece of equipment you'd need is a lathe. It's a fairly significant investment in time and money. The process of making pieces with this tool is usually called &amp;quot;turning&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your workpiece is clamped between the headstock and tailstock and the lathe's electric motor spins the wood at a high rate of speed allowing a tool (typically supported by the tool rest) to remove unwanted wood along the length of the workpiece. (See the second picture.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jsb2y.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jsb2y.png&quot; alt=&quot;Typical lathe with major parts labeled&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Image lifted from: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wikihow.com/Use-a-Wood-Lathe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to use a wood lathe&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, you'll need a collection of tools (gouges, scrapers, parting tools, etc.) to make the different shapes and curves along the length of the legs. Other tools will be needed to accurately replicate the profile across multiple legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pcRej.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pcRej.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wood turning tool in use with lathe&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Image lifted from: &lt;a href=&quot;https://knowledge.axminstertools.com/beginners-guide-to-woodturning-tools/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Beginner's Guide to Woodturning Tools&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alternatively&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;There's another solution for someone who's just looking to make a single piece of furniture or to complete a couple of projects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can purchase pre-made, turned legs in various lengths and styles for furniture projects from retail suppliers. It isn't considered good form to make specific shopping recommendations here, but you can find many choices by firing up your favorite search engine and searching for &amp;quot;turned legs for furniture&amp;quot; or something similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastActivityDate="2022-10-22T13:31:37.323" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14199" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14202" CreationDate="2022-10-22T21:32:24.597" Score="2" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have to fix a top cabinet with no floor support to the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the difference if I were to place the screws which hold the cabinet to the wall at the 4 corners inside the cabinet (diagram 1) vs having 2 of the corner screws shifted to the centre of the cabinet (diagram 2)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BuCaD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BuCaD.png&quot; alt=&quot;Diagrams&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12636" LastEditorUserId="12636" LastEditDate="2022-10-22T22:29:10.963" LastActivityDate="2022-10-25T08:57:27.283" Title="Screw Placement for Wall Hung Top Cabinet" Tags="|screws|cabinetry|weight-capacity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14199" CreationDate="2022-10-23T13:00:46.403" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In very general terms, for the best support, you'll want the fasteners to attach to the studs in the wall. If you have to shift the location of them to achieve this, as is suggested by your second diagram, it's worth doing. If you can fit in a third set of fasteners tied to another stud, even better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastActivityDate="2022-10-23T13:00:46.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14201" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-23T19:02:45.103" Score="0" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a couple rounds cut off a 42 inch (107 cm) diameter Douglas Fir log that I'd like to turn into tables for use outdoors on a covered porch.  The rounds are about 4 inches (10 cm) thick.  I'm wondering how long they should air dry before making the tables.  I plan to varnish both top and bottom.  I know a general rule of thumb is a year per inch of thickness, but I'm thinking these should dry much faster than that since nearly all the exposed surface is end grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tree was cut two years ago, but the log was just cut into rounds a few days ago - my moisture meter said about 30% when cut. Most of the bark is still on but some has come off. I will remove it all. I see one very narrow crack now but assume it will grow. I'm not in a great hurry but planning to air dry it in my garage and wanting to know how long I should expect it to take. Not sure what the money reference is but I'm not going to buy a drying kiln - air drying is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any experience or guidance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2276" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2022-10-24T22:44:25.783" LastActivityDate="2022-10-24T22:44:25.783" Title="Drying Fir Rounds for Outdoor Table" Tags="|outdoor|wood-drying|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14199" CreationDate="2022-10-25T08:57:27.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The difference between the two placements is torque. In diagram 1 all forces act downwards (at least the ones that matter, there might be other components to it, but these are negligible). All weight is more or less equally distributed on all 4 screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the second diagram, you basically built a lever. Without knowing dimensions or weight distributions, this might or might not be a problem. The weight on the far right pushes down and if there is no equal force on the left, you are inducing a rotational force around the middle screw. Again depending on dimensions etc. this might cause the left screws to not be loaded at all (or even upwards) and all the weight is sitting on the middle screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For fastening systems that rely on downward force, like a french cleat, this might be a problem. Also consider that depending on the unsupported width of the right part, the force exerted on the middle screws can be significantly higher than just the wight of the cabinet (you know... levers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9713" LastActivityDate="2022-10-25T08:57:27.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14203" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14205" CreationDate="2022-10-25T12:24:47.487" Score="3" ViewCount="472" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to glue two 3/4&amp;quot; (11/16&amp;quot; actual) sheets of Baltic Birch plywood together to make a 1.5&amp;quot; (1.375&amp;quot; actual) thick sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then want to add two &amp;quot;legs&amp;quot; coming out of the edge of the plywood, so that it looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; _________________________ 1.375&amp;quot; thick&#xA;/________________________/|&#xA;|                        ||&#xA;|                        ||   &amp;lt;- two sheets of BB plywood glued together&#xA;|                        ||&#xA;|________________________|/&#xA;   |_|/             |_|/&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;    ^&#xA;    |&#xA;   dowel rods (diameter tbd)&#xA;   each ~6&amp;quot; long&#xA;   3&amp;quot; glued into edge of 1.375&amp;quot; thick plywood, 3&amp;quot; exposed&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not pictured is a &amp;quot;base&amp;quot; with holes that receive these legs. The idea is that this piece will usually sit in this base but can be removed by hand. The holes in the base will be a touch larger than the dowel legs so it'll go in and out without any force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it feasible to drill into the edge of glued-together plywood like this?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it feasible to glue a dowel into this edge? Should I use a fluted dowel?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How big a dowel diameter can I safely use? I was hoping to use 3/4&amp;quot; so the leg is substantial, but that is over half the thickness of the 1.375&amp;quot; thick plywood sheet. Could 1/2&amp;quot; work?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a better option? I'd like to keep the legs centered on the edge (i.e. not attached to the front/back of the piece). I had thought of using three 1/2&amp;quot; thick sheets to build these pieces up (instead of two 3/4&amp;quot; sheets), using the middle layer to create the legs and holes, using taller pieces for the legs and leaving pieces out where the holes need to be. I prefer the drilling option if feasible, because it simplifies my materials list and plans.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: The sheet is a removable backrest of a sofa. It's two sheets of Baltic Birch glued together to make total dimensions of 79&amp;quot;L x 20&amp;quot;H x 1.375&amp;quot; thick. I had originally planned to use four 3/4&amp;quot; thick dowel rods for the posts, spaced 16&amp;quot; apart, leaving about 6&amp;quot; of space on either end. I had planned to wrap the upper exposed 1&amp;quot; of the leg in some felt, and the very bottom 1&amp;quot; of the hole in felt, so that the leg goes in/out of the hole in the base easy, but fits snug once fully inserted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12647" LastEditorUserId="12647" LastEditDate="2022-10-25T12:56:59.970" LastActivityDate="2022-10-25T19:36:35.533" Title="How big hole can I drill in edge of plywood?" Tags="|joinery|plywood|dowel|laminating|knockdown|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14203" CreationDate="2022-10-25T13:15:32.080" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I was reading this I was thinking there is nothing wrong with doing this, a 3/4&amp;quot; dowel should be able to be drilled and glued in with no problems.  Then I read the part about being the back of a sofa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rotational torque on the board being the back of a sofa won't hold up for very long.  The plywood will be twisted against it's weakest direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might handle it for a bit longer if you make the 3/4&amp;quot; dowel almost all 20&amp;quot; of the height and have 1 about every 10&amp;quot; along the length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The better option would be to put in some triangles on the 'back' side to help support the back, I'd go with 3 or 4 of them.  They can be narrow and tall maybe 18&amp;quot; tall by 6&amp;quot; wide at the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise I think you are going to find things breaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2022-10-25T19:36:35.533" LastActivityDate="2022-10-25T19:36:35.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14203" CreationDate="2022-10-25T14:04:49.167" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it feasible to drill into the edge of glued-together plywood like this?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just a note for future readers: this is not a universal yes for all plywood, because of the limitations of some plywoods&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. But Baltic birch is ideal for face glueing because of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://andersonplywood.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/baltic-birch-plywood.jpeg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;uniform thickness of the surface and interior plies&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2a. Is it feasible to glue a dowel into this edge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, if you glue the plywood together well (see tips at bottom).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2b. Should I use a fluted dowel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may not be able to easily source fluted dowel in the length you're planning to use, making this almost irrelevant. And while you can quite easily make your own, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3841/how-can-i-flute-my-own-dowel-or-create-dowel-with-similar-properties/&quot;&gt;How can I flute my own dowel or create dowel with similar properties&lt;/a&gt; it's often not necessary — dowels that are custom in some way&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; are almost invariably a plain, smooth dowel, without even a relief groove/channel down the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's really only if dowels are a very tight fit in their drilled holes that some kind of relief is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How big a dowel diameter can I safely use? I was hoping to use 3/4&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;s&gt; 3/4&amp;quot; should be fine.&lt;/s&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit for new details provided&lt;/strong&gt;. Now that we know what this laminated sheet is for you're going to want to up the number of feet from two!! I suggest you use 5/8&amp;quot; &lt;em&gt;in addition to&lt;/em&gt; increasing the number, and if were relying on the dowels alone and the back was thick enough to accommodate it I'd go with 1&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My gut tells me that you're going to want to use six at least, and note that this will make drilling the corresponding holes in the base &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; more challenging (and will make installation and removal of the back much more difficult, even if dowel alignment is basically perfect). Chamfer the leading edges of the dowels well!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;4&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a better option?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think so yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the strength requirements if I were making a back of the same style as this I think I'd create a stopped groove in the base for the edge of the plywood to sit into (which would allow the number of 'feet' to go down to two or four). The plywood should be a tight fit in the groove so there's no play and should sit in 3/4&amp;quot; or 1&amp;quot;; again, chamfer the leading edge well to help ease insertion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the tips on glueing the ply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;First and foremost you have to lightly sand the mating surfaces to ensure the best glue bond, because only freshly worked wood glues well (&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4151/what-do-i-need-to-do-to-prepare-wood-for-gluing/4159#4159&quot;&gt;here's why&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't skimp on glue. If you've never watched this being done, it's likely this will require quite a bit more glue than you might imagine! And it is important to apply some excess (which will then be squeezed out during clamping, so be prepared for the drips).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You might want to make a notched spreader (from an old credit card or store card) to ensure even glue distribution, or use a roller (hard rubber rollers such as brayers/ink rollers are excellent for this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you intend to use PVA to glue the two pieces together you &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; ensure good pressure to be assured of a strong bond; PVA glue is only strong in a thin (very thin) layer and this is only achievable with high or very high clamping pressure. This is easy along the edges where you can place clamps directly, but more difficult to ensure in the interior — use clamping cauls/clamping pressure pads for that, or very heavy weight stacked in the middle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't underestimate the number of clamps you're going to need.&lt;/strong&gt; This is really a subset of the previous point but deserves to be listed separately to make the point properly. Along the edges you might want to space the clamps no more than 6-8&amp;quot; (150-208mm) apart, so just a smallish panel could easily require every clamp in many workshops. I know it did when I glued up my workbench tops!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Some modern plywood has ridiculously thin surface veneer and this is not a good candidate for bonding face to face because these veneers are inherently weak &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; typically not firmly attached. In short this type of plywood, if used as-is, could quite easily separate along the user's glue line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Diameter, length or species, or any combination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-10-25T18:07:12.680" LastActivityDate="2022-10-25T18:07:12.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14206" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-26T06:00:52.590" Score="3" ViewCount="865" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a used 12” Craftsman tilt head 2 speed band saw on Craigslist. It worked when I tested it at the previous owner’s place, but when I set it up at home and turned it on. The blade didn’t move. If left on for a bit, the blade and blade wheels began to move and so I attempted to cut wood. However, the saw slowed to a halt before making barely a dent in the wood. I’ve checked underneath to see if the belt was off.  It is not, and when the motor is turned on the pulleys turn along with the belt. This may help: when I transported it, it was laid on its side with the blade pulley directly beneath the blade wheel it turns (both sitting horizontally), whereas when upright, they sit side by side and vertical. Any idea what could be wrong?&#xA;Hey all! OP here. I appreciate all your input and advice. I was researching a lot before asking this question and thought that it might be a key slippage issue like Caleb said. And maybe that’s why the blade moves and sometimes it doesn’t. Perhaps the shaft catches sometimes and other times doesn’t. I looked and there IS a key in the key way of the bottom blade wheel’s shaft. However, I do not see one in the key way of the pulley shaft. I’ve also noticed that the belt is worn. I want to order a replacement belt and was thinking of using a link belt but I’m unsure if it would be too thick to pass from one pulley to the next within the confines of the motor mount. Anyone know what width the belt is suppose to be? The model number of my saw is 113. 248320.&#xA;Let me give you some more information: when I turn the blade pulley by hand, the blade wheels turn along with the blade. Also, when I pull on the belt of the pulleys,  it doesn’t slip and it turns the pulleys and all of those in turn, turn the blade wheels. When I turn the blade wheels by hand they spins smoothly (for how old the saw is), but the pulleys don’t move when I spin the blade wheels by hand. Not sure if that is supposed to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12649" LastEditorUserId="12649" LastEditDate="2022-11-01T22:11:37.343" LastActivityDate="2022-11-01T22:11:37.343" Title="Why won't my my band saw's blade move?" Tags="|band-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14206" CreationDate="2022-10-26T20:35:42.807" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't say exactly what's wrong with your saw, as I don't think we have enough information, but perhaps I can help you help yourself...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bandsaws are pretty simple: a motor turns a pulley, which drives a belt, which drives the lower wheel, which moves the blade. If the blade isn't moving, you'll find the problem in one or more of those components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, &lt;strong&gt;unplug the saw.&lt;/strong&gt; If you're going to poke around inside the saw, it's best to be safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Open up the top and bottom wheel compartments and confirm that the blade is sitting more or less centered on the wheels. It might not be exactly centered -- that's fine -- but it shouldn't be entirely off either wheel, or looking like it's about to fall off. Try turning the wheels by hand; they should each turn smoothly and fairly easily. If they feel rough, or if they don't turn at all, or if they make unhappy sounds, the wheel bearings may need to be replaced. If they do turn well, move on...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're using a band saw, you need some tension on the blade. How much is a matter of some debate, but at least enough to hold the blade straight and provide enough friction between the blade and wheels to drive the blade. If the blade looks to be installed correctly but it doesn't move when you turn one of the wheels, there's almost certainly not enough tension. It's good practice to de-tension the blade when you're not using the saw, so it's pretty likely that the seller did exactly that after demonstrating that the saw worked. There's a knob at the top of the saw that moves the top wheel up or down to increase or decrease blade tension; use it to add tension so that turning one wheel moves the blade and turns the other wheel. Also, when you press on the side of the blade, it shouldn't deflect a lot. (I'm being purposefully vague about how much, but let's just say that if you can easily move the blade 1/8&amp;quot; with the guide blocks out of the way, add more tension.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If turning one wheel makes the other wheel turn the same amount, and if that wasn't the case before, then the blade tension might've been the only problem. Close up the saw, plug it in, turn it on, and see how it goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the blade still isn't moving, or it's only moving a little, it's time to take a look at the motor, the belt, and the pulleys. If you can hear or see the motor turning and the blade isn't, then you'll want to look at whether the belt is installed, and whether it's properly tensioned. &lt;strong&gt;Unplug the saw again&lt;/strong&gt;, remove whatever cover is over the belt and pulleys, and try pressing on the belt. As with the blade, it should deflect a little but not a lot when you press on it. Try moving the belt and notice whether the motor turns easily, and whether the wheel connected to the other pulley moves. Pulleys are often fixed to their shafts with a piece of square stock called a key, and if one of the keys fell out when you moved the saw, it'd make sense that the pulley might turn on the shaft without actually driving (or being driven by) the shaft. So, check for those keys, and see if you can turn each pulley without the shaft moving along with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last thing that could be wrong is the motor. If the motor isn't turning when you turn on the saw, or it's turning but not much, or with little power, then there might be a problem inside the motor, or the motor might not be getting enough power. Try plugging it into a different outlet, one that you know works for other machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck! Also, I've seen manuals for that saw around online, and there are a number of videos on YouTube like &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/tgVCGJTU_O4&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; that might be a helpful introduction to the saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-10-26T20:35:42.807" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14143" CreationDate="2022-10-28T13:16:16.297" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A furniture/cabinet quality plywood @ 18mm/3/4&amp;quot; will serve you well.  Avoid lower grade subfloor/sheathing plywood.  If you use a hardwood edging (not iron/glue on) if will add a bit of rigidity as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find yourself with a lot of flex in the top, you can always double up the top with a second piece glued to the top.  Make this slightly overside and flush it up with a trim router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8429" LastActivityDate="2022-10-28T13:16:16.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14209" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-31T14:57:18.107" Score="2" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a wooden lamp which is made from thin bent wood. Unfortunately it arrived with a large crack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vcgZn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vcgZn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;crack in the wood&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I wonder what is the best way to fix it so that the crack is not or at least only barely visible if the lamp is turned on in the dark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ow30o.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ow30o.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Light turned on&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;EDIT&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have to repair it, since I bought it second hand and the seller was not responding to my messages after the package arrived.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12659" LastEditorUserId="12659" LastEditDate="2022-11-01T17:14:46.327" LastActivityDate="2022-11-04T18:59:24.860" Title="Fixing a crack in a thin layer of bent wood" Tags="|wood|technique|glue|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14210" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14212" CreationDate="2022-10-31T15:00:33.900" Score="1" ViewCount="763" Body="&lt;p&gt;New birch butcher block counter that I’d like to keep as light as possible. I’m thinking of whitewash with diluted primer, oil or water base, and either danish oil top coat or a wipe on poly. Can I add oil primer to the danish oil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12660" LastActivityDate="2022-11-01T20:06:40.930" Title="Can I add white primer to danish oil to keep birch countertops light color?" Tags="|finishing|wood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4850" CreationDate="2022-10-31T16:09:20.123" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The butt joint is the simplest joint to make since it merely involves cutting the material to the appropriate length and butting them together. It is also the weakest because unless some form of reinforcement is used, it relies upon glue or welding alone to hold it together. As the orientation of the material usually presents only one end to a long gluing or welding surface, the resulting joint is inherently weak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12661" LastActivityDate="2022-10-31T16:09:20.123" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14210" CreationDate="2022-10-31T16:34:20.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I add white primer to danish oil to keep birch countertops light color?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short answer: yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you'll make is essentially very similar to some commercial products intended for the same purpose, which are essentially one of their existing finishes with some white pigment added&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Longer answer: some experimentation would be &lt;em&gt;highly&lt;/em&gt; advisable, even if you have experience in painting and other finishing already you won't be able to predict how much whiteness a given quantity of white primer (or paint) will impart to the &amp;quot;Danish oil&amp;quot;. So you'll have to do some small tests of various mixes, noting the ratios; &lt;em&gt;write them down&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. Apply the planned number of coats for every mix and assess how the wood looks after they've dried (there is likely to be some change in appearance from wet to dry).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use the underside for this testing if you don't have any offcuts to work with. But be sure to protect the top from dings and dents by putting old sheets or a blanket etc. under it while you're working on the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m thinking of whitewash with diluted primer, oil or water base, and either danish oil top coat or a wipe on poly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is definitely also a viable option; you wouldn't be the first to go this route. Probably obvious but again testing will be necessary to work out how much to thin, how to apply it effectively on such a large surface, how much you need to wipe away excess and possibly other things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; if you do it this way and you want to keep the wood as pale as possible it would be advisable to use a waterbased finish (even if you choose to use an oil-based white paint or primer) so that the topcoat doesn't impart a noticeable yellow tinge (which &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; deepen over time, guaranteed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choose your waterbased finish with care as they are very much not all equal and you'll want to pick one of the better ones for a countertop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Examples include Skagerak Cura Oil White, Guardian White-pigmented Oil, Rubio Monocoat Oil Plus 2C White 5%, Osmo 3068 Top Oil Natural.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; If you have a good memory it's tempting to just rely on it, but you never know if you'll need to repeat this mixture sometime down the road when you can't be certain you'll still remember exact quantities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-11-01T17:40:52.733" LastActivityDate="2022-11-01T17:40:52.733" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14209" CreationDate="2022-11-01T18:36:16.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, if this was an eBay transaction, you might have recourse that doesn’t depend on the seller responding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still want to proceed, I don’t think you need a lot of complicated materials and tools for this repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get in behind the shade and run vertical strips of 2” wide masking tape that pull the crack closed. Check your work with the light on. Then run a horizontal strip (still on the interior) to cover the crack completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a brown-tint wood glue (titebond 2 or 3, for example) and a very fine applicator (a syringe would be ideal, but a toothpick would work in a pinch), make a thin bead of glue at the crack. Wipe the excess glue flush and then gently swab with a slightly water dampened rag to further remove the excess. Let this dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carefully remove the tape from the inside and see how it looks. You might want to repeat the gluing sequence with tape on the exterior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you’re done gluing, if you have light leakage, you can use a fine point touch up marker to block the light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2022-11-01T18:36:16.357" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14210" CreationDate="2022-11-01T20:06:40.930" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of adding light-colored pigment to the wood, you might want to think about lightening the color of the wood by removing some of the color that's already there (or which develops over time) by bleaching the wood. Here's &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bobvila.com/articles/bleaching-wood/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a short Bob Vila article&lt;/a&gt; about using chlorine bleach, peroxide, and oxalic acid (not at the same time!), and a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thisoldhouse.com/kitchens/21017444/restoring-a-butcher-block-countertop&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This Old House article&lt;/a&gt; about restoring butcher block countertops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-11-01T20:06:40.930" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14215" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-02T14:00:24.857" Score="0" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found some posts with tools to start with but now I am trying to figure out what type of wood to start with. I imagine a soft, easy to carve wood is best and probably cheaper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12669" LastActivityDate="2022-11-09T19:31:23.253" Title="What are some easy types of wood to start woodcarving?" Tags="|wood|carving|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14215" CreationDate="2022-11-02T14:22:29.957" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basswood is generally the most recommended wood to start with. White pine should also work, but the details may not be as fine. Other good carving woods include butternut (also known as white walnut), aspen, and black walnut, although its price is rather high right now. If you live near a specialty woodworking store like Rockler or Woodcraft or similar, they should have a whole carving section including a variety of wood blanks, including basswood. You can also order blanks of various sizes online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2022-11-02T14:22:29.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14215" CreationDate="2022-11-02T14:22:51.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding (I'm not a wood carver) is that Basswood (at least in the US) is generally a good wood for carvers, it tends to not have a lot of character itself, fairly white, so can take most stains easily, not a lot of difference between summer wood and winter wood on the grains.  It's pretty soft and easy to carve.  and at least around MN and WI fairly easy (cheap) to get your hands on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also been told Butternut is another carvers favorite, fairly soft but it does have a lot of color and it is generally not very cheap, at least compared to woods like basswood.  My wife's Uncle carved me a little squirrel out of butternut and it was a gorgeous piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2022-11-02T14:22:51.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14218" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-03T22:10:21.333" Score="1" ViewCount="439" Body="&lt;p&gt;We had a farmhouse pine table made by a company. It’s beautiful and we love it. However, two of the planks have developed some cracks. We’ve only had the table 2 or 3 weeks. We were warned that it needed to acclimatise and to keep the heat off for a few days. We’ve now started using our fire (log burner) in the same room and it appears that the wood has shrank and is splitting/cracking. Is this normal? Will the cracks close up if I increase the moisture in the room (leave the fire off, run the humidifier)? I really don’t want it to split to the ends and leave big cracks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve attached some photos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bp1qC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bp1qC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;enter image description here&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l6wGX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l6wGX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12674" LastActivityDate="2022-11-14T04:46:58.270" Title="New Pine Farmhouse Dining Table Cracking" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14219" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-04T03:36:05.457" Score="0" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll preface this by saying that I don't know much about wood finishes but I was hoping to get some help to recover what I've done sor far...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got a butcher block style countertop slab to use as a desk top (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.ca/product/interbuild-79-inch-length-x-31-5-inch-width-x-1-inch-thick-acacia-countertop-light-oak-hardwax-oiled/1001746717&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;). I added a couple coats of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.ca/product/interbuild-hardwax-wood-oil-food-safe-voc-free-carbon-neutral-clear-250-ml/1001678719&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hardwax oil&lt;/a&gt; and let it dry for a few days in between but I don't really like how shiny it made the wood, also seems to give it a bit more of a yellow tint. So I started to sand it down, I'm at 400 grit and I really like the look and feel of the wood, what would be the best way to &amp;quot;keep it as is&amp;quot; but still seal it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remember reading that for a matte finish with hardwax you need to wipe it pretty agressivly 30~60 minutes after applying the harwax coat? Would that actually work?&#xA;I've also seen that if you start with an oil finish you should only use similar types of finishes subsequently? Is that true? Am I locked in using oil based finishes? Even after sanding out a fair amount?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally, what would be the best type of finish to stay as true as possible to the un-finished wood from a look and feel perspective? Something matte? Maybe a water based finish would be a better option?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12676" LastEditorUserId="12676" LastEditDate="2022-11-04T03:40:39.337" LastActivityDate="2022-11-14T04:43:00.943" Title="Sanding down hardwax finish, how to seal it as close as natural?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14220" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14231" CreationDate="2022-11-04T16:46:39.090" Score="3" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a dog house for my backyard and have put a water seal on the floor and porch, since those will be most exposed to the elements. Now I need to paint the walls and went to put painter's tape over the parts I don't want painted, but the tape doesn't stick to the sealed wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are my options here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12677" LastActivityDate="2022-11-05T17:37:56.430" Title="How can I protect the part of my piece I don't want painted when painter's tape won't stick?" Tags="|technique|paint|process|painting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14220" CreationDate="2022-11-04T18:17:17.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can test to see if the paint will stick to the water seal. If it does, you can try wax, which is what I use where panels connect to stiles/rails in panel and frame construction. You can use painters tape on the unsealed wood before laying down the wax and then take it off to get a sharp edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12678" LastActivityDate="2022-11-04T18:17:17.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14209" CreationDate="2022-11-04T18:59:24.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks cool, but it just seems like an inherently fragile design. Which is probably why you don't see more of these lamps. The other comments here are focused on getting it back to its original condition, or similar - which would be difficult. But what if instead you try to make something new out of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Detach one of the broken halves, and re-attach it slightly higher or lower so it overlaps the other broken half. I can't see the sides or back of the lamp, so I don't know how the strips are attached - if they're glued on, detaching them without damage might be difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or cut some opaque flexible material (maybe thin cardboard) into a strip about 1 inch wide, and attach it behind the crack so it blocks the light. Most people will look at that and think it's part of the design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12348" LastActivityDate="2022-11-04T18:59:24.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14223" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-20T15:23:07.683" Score="5" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;p&gt;I make sculptures (well, I try to, anyway) with old wood that I find in the forest. I strip and sand them heavily until I reach the &amp;quot;good&amp;quot; wood underneath the bad parts, but the remaining wood is still usually kind of porous, and has a dusty look, although it is actually clean. At that point, the wood has a brownish color, as you can see in the picture below, but it is not very dark. The color is very uneven, however, with lighter parts and much darker parts. But overall, apart from the dusty look, the color is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, as soon as I try to apply any kind of finish to get rid of the dusty surface (clear varnish - spray or brush, linseed oil, wax, anything), it gets much darker, and it ruins the whole thing. I think it is because, as it is porous, the finish goes into the pores and reflects the &amp;quot;darkness&amp;quot; inside them, or whatever. I also somewhat tried fancy stuff like oxygenated water to lighten the color, and some mixture of white crayon and oil, without success. And any attempt to use some light-colored translucent paint makes it loose its natural look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to find a way to make the piece of wood look less &amp;quot;dusty&amp;quot; (it doesn't have to be shining bright, but just look &amp;quot;finished&amp;quot;), revealing the wood grain as much as possible, still looking as natural as possible (painting them isn't what I want), without the wood turning into a dark brown/almost black color for the most part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a solution for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood after sanding, no coating. Color is acceptable, but looks dusty/dull.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RzDVb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RzDVbm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;photo of found wood sanded down to show the color the OP is talking about&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Click image for a larger version.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood sample, half waxed (neutral wax, very slightly yellowish - but whatever coating used would get approximately the same result)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N5wtG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N5wtGm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;photo of wood sample half waxed, showing the difference&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Click image for a larger version.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other piece of wood, coated (coating based on lineseed oil and some fancy stuff I tried to mitigate the problem, which did not improve anything). Way too dark, except in a few areas.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OUwv0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OUwv0m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;photo of piece wood entirely oiled&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Click image for a larger version.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12673" OwnerDisplayName="dim" LastEditorUserId="12673" LastEditDate="2022-11-06T22:14:53.513" LastActivityDate="2022-11-06T22:14:53.513" Title="Coating / waxing / oiling old wood without darkening it" Tags="|wood|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14223" CreationDate="2022-10-20T17:53:04.113" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you put a clear liquid on the wood, the wood looks darker and the grain has more contrast, but you aren't actually changing the color of the wood.  That's why bleaching solutions like oxygenated water don't fix it (the color can look bleached once it dries, though).  Different clear liquids will produce greater or lesser of this effect depending on how well they're absorbed by the wood and their refractive index.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few things going on.  The wood starts out looking &amp;quot;dusty&amp;quot; because the surface is full of microscopic irregularities, no matter how much you sand it.  That randomly scatters some of the reflected light.  If you coat the wood with a clear finish that fills the irregularities and has a smooth surface, the surface looks polished and the wood details become more distinct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was a flat board, you could sand it with progressively finer sand paper up to an extremely fine grit used for polishing (you'll never get wood to look like a mirror, but you can get it less matte).  That's tough to do uniformly on an irregular surface like the wood in the picture.  But the smoother you can get it, the less of a problem you'll have trying to correct that issue with a coating.  If you can get it reasonably smooth, buffing it can help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding the right kind of finish in the right amount can make the surface less matte without being glossy.  That will make surface details more distinct and the color will look a little more saturated.  It can be a tough balancing act to achieve your ideal level of looking finished but still natural.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People who do fine woodworking may have some experience with what finishes work best for this, but doing it on wood in its natural, rustic form is a special case.  It would be best to get advice on that from people with experience doing exactly that.  Hopefully, Arts &amp;amp; Crafts has a few readers who do it and can share their expertise in an answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem of the color getting much darker when you put a finish on it is different.  The color of the wood isn't actually changing.  The process is similar to what happens when concrete gets wet or perspiration makes a dark area on your clothing.  Some of the light reflecting off the surface gets reflected back again by the underside of the liquid layer, and the liquid changes the angle of the light hitting and reflecting off the surface.  Less light is directed to your eyes, so the area looks darker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the liquid is absorbed or evaporates, the surface layer disappears and the color goes back to normal (although the wood grain will remain more distinct for a longer time because differences in porosity affect how much liquid is absorbed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you clean the surface with a liquid that evaporates, the color will quickly return to normal.  If you rub in an oil finish, the oil will eventually get absorbed into the wood and the color will return to normal, but much slower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A finish that wets the surface of the wood and hardens will lighten a little as the solvents evaporate and any oily components get absorbed into the wood.  It may also lighten a little over time if it shrinks and gets some microscopic separations from the wood or its optical characteristics change.  If its surface gets scuffed, it will scatter light like the original wood surface and look lighter.  But at least some amount of darkening effect is likely to last pretty much as long as the finish remains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11895" OwnerDisplayName="fixer1234" LastActivityDate="2022-10-21T01:55:21.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14225" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-05T01:02:09.070" Score="1" ViewCount="195" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently purchased a craftsman tilt head 2 speed bandsaw and when I turn the top blade wheel by hand, the pulleys don’t move. However, when I turn the pulleys by hand, the blade wheels move. Could this be associated with the issue I’m having where the blade wheels turn intermittently when the bandsaw is powered on and when they do move won’t cut through a piece of wood? One the wood is placed against the blade, the place stops but the pulleys are still turning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;It was the key as Caleb suggested. It was missing. I ordered a new one and gently (very gently) tapped it in with a hammer. I also replaced the set screw. Then I turned it on and was able to cut a piece of wood no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12649" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-02-11T08:56:10.487" LastActivityDate="2023-02-11T08:56:10.487" Title="Why would my pulleys not move when I turn the blade wheel of my bandsaw by hand?" Tags="|band-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7371" CreationDate="2022-11-05T03:58:36.750" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;At risk of stating the obvious... have you considered dowels and glue?  Since wood moves most across the grain, and the grain of the cross braces and the top is more aligned than not, I wouldn't expect the differences in expansion/contraction to be too drastic between the two.  Wood movement in dowels is mostly radially inward or outward and would affect the corresponding holes in the cross braces and top similarly. If you fit the dowels with just enough wiggle room, the hardened glue itself should provide a buffer for small differences in movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as I am not a fan of dowels (too much Ikea furniture in my house), I would love to be corrected here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12680" LastActivityDate="2022-11-05T03:58:36.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14218" CreationDate="2022-11-05T04:39:20.897" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main problem is the way the wood is cut (&amp;quot;flat-sawn&amp;quot;).  If you look at the tree rings in the end grain for that particular board, they probably look like a &amp;quot;U&amp;quot;, in which case the bottom part of the U contracts/expands more than the top part as moisture decreases/increases.  This is because wood moves most across the grain within each ring (as opposed to along the grain), and the outer rings have more surface area.  It's this difference that causes a crack to form, and this is why it's a good idea to alternate the directions of the U's when gluing up flat-sawn boards for a panel. Increasing the moisture in the room might help close up the crack temporarily, but unless you're able to completely seal the board from moisture, especially the end-grain, you'll have a recurring problem any time the moisture in the room changes. If the crack gets larger, you could try to fill it with a mix of sawdust and wood glue and then sand down.  Once it's filled in, you can stain or oil the table to help seal it.  Or if you like the unfinished look, at least seal the end grain of the boards with some oil or wax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: To answer your questions, &amp;quot;Is this normal?&amp;quot; Yes and No. Yes, it is normal in wood if the end-grain of the wood is not properly sealed, and the piece of lumber has strong curvature in the rings, it is normal and to be expected if the environment undergoes changes in moisture. No, it is not normal in inside furniture kept in a reasonably stable environment, since most furniture will reach an approximate moisture equilibrium where changing internal stresses are not enough to cause checking.   &amp;quot;Will the cracks close up if I increase the moisture in the room (leave the fire off, run the humidifier)?&amp;quot; Possibly, but this would not be a permanent or long-term solution to getting rid of the cracks, as future changes in moisture can cause them to open up again.  Also, if you overdo the moisture, then you could have cracks open up on the opposite side of the board as it warps the other way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit 2: I took a few pictures of plain-sawn wood in my shop from reclaimed furniture that show similar cracks, just to refute the notion that what is not normal for some might be normal for another.  I only have a few examples right now because I avoid stripping/refinishing plain-sawn wood pieces exactly for this reason---once the finish is stripped, they tend to warp and crack as they adjust to the moisture. Happy to post if there's interest and someone can walk me through how to upload them to this site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12680" LastEditorUserId="12680" LastEditDate="2022-11-08T01:34:35.357" LastActivityDate="2022-11-08T01:34:35.357" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14169" CreationDate="2022-11-05T04:56:44.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My quick and dirty fix would be to just replace the insert with another dowel and glue.  Just drill out the threaded holes with a bit size that matches the dowel.  Should be good enough for an Ikea lamp, assuming you're not doing pull-ups on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: &amp;quot;drill out the threaded holes&amp;quot;, meaning you want to clean out the threads both inside the hole in the disk and also the pocket hole in the leg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12680" LastEditorUserId="12680" LastEditDate="2022-11-11T19:55:29.117" LastActivityDate="2022-11-11T19:55:29.117" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11028" CreationDate="2022-11-05T05:16:00.520" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you think about wood at the cellular level as long cylinders filled with cellulose and water and some other stuff, with these cylinders arranged side-by-side to form rings, you could probably approximate the stresses in different directions by considering hydrodynamic pressure on the lateral walls of a single cylinder and relating it to the vapor pressure at the ends (i.e., the end grain).  Stress is a tensor so the force would depend on both the orientation of a particular cross-section and its area, integrated over some surface.  My physics is rusty but that's the best I can do off the cuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12680" LastActivityDate="2022-11-05T05:16:00.520" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14220" CreationDate="2022-11-05T17:37:56.430" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back before quality painter's/masking tape was available to the masses, my dad always used a painter's straight edge for cutting into corners and wall/ceiling junctions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PHxu7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PHxu7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;painter's straight edge from Amazon&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00B0Z5DFG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;amazon.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're available in different lengths (this particular one comes in 12&amp;quot; and 24&amp;quot; sizes) and are much faster and easier to use than painter's tape... especially when it doesn't stick :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2022-11-05T17:37:56.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14225" CreationDate="2022-11-07T07:24:19.963" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently purchased a craftsman tilt head 2 speed bandsaw and when I turn the top blade wheel by hand, the pulleys don’t move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're missing one or both of the keys that lock the pulleys to their respective shafts, and/or the key that locks the wheel to its shaft. The set screws that are supposed to keep the keys in place may also be missing. There's really no other explanation. &lt;strong&gt;If the pulley can move while the shaft doesn't, the key is missing. If the wheel can move while the shaft doesn't, the key is missing.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me suggest that you take a look at the exploded parts diagrams on pages 44 and 48 of &lt;a href=&quot;https://c.searspartsdirect.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0803605.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the user manual for your saw&lt;/a&gt;. You'll see on page 44 that the part numbered &lt;em&gt;45&lt;/em&gt; is a 15/16&amp;quot; long, 3/16&amp;quot; square key that fits into a keyseat on the lower wheel shaft. On page 48, two parts numbered &lt;em&gt;33&lt;/em&gt; and identical to the other key lock the pulleys to their respective shafts. These joints look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gjFua.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gjFua.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;keyed shaft&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see that they key fits into both the keyseat (the recess on the shaft) and the keyway (the recess in the hole that fits onto the shaft) and prevents the part from rotating on the shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could this be associated with the issue I’m having where the blade wheels turn intermittently when the bandsaw is powered on and when they do move won’t cut through a piece of wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes.&lt;/strong&gt; This is so closely associated with your saw not cutting that I strongly considered voting to close this question as a duplicate of your other question. The missing keys may not be the only problem with your saw, but they're surely the reason that the motor's power is not being transferred to the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fix is probably simple. These keys are fairly standard parts: you can probably find &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-16-in-x-12-in-Zinc-Plated-Square-Bar-800317/204331372&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;appropriately sized key stock&lt;/a&gt; at your local home center or hardware store, or buy from sources like McMaster-Carr. Don't forget to also get the set screws if those are missing so that you can prevent the problem from occurring again. Just cut pieces of the key stock to the length you need (again, 15/16&amp;quot;) with a hacksaw, remove any burrs with a file, put the pulley or wheel in place with the keyseat and keyway aligned, insert the key into the square hole that they form, and tighten the set screw to hold the key in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you've been running the saw without the missing keys, or if the previous owner did, the inside surfaces of the pulleys or wheel may have become worn, and that would complicate matters. You can probably buy a set of replacement pulleys without too much trouble, but if the wheel is worn, you might need to hire a machine shop to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2022-11-10T20:23:21.477" LastActivityDate="2022-11-10T20:23:21.477" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14233" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-08T01:32:35.070" Score="0" ViewCount="1162" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a very amateur woodworker that's just getting started using my DWS 779 miter saw.  My recent projects have been making bird houses with flat bottoms that have a 2&amp;quot; wall surrounding the floor. While my question is about 45 degree angles, it could be any angle for my saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can dial in 45 degrees on both side for mitering.  I cut a board to length, give it a 45 degree miter, then rotate the miter to the other 45 degree miter and cut.  When I go to take those four boards and make a box out of to frame the bottom piece, the angles are slightly off and I end up having to use a little bit of wood filler to fill in imperfect joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a reason my miter saw's 45 degree (and really all of them) are different on one side or the other?  I would admit that it could be &lt;em&gt;how&lt;/em&gt; I'm using it as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example of my boxes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b7zFU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b7zFU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;An oak wooden box base&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12573" LastActivityDate="2022-11-10T18:50:11.420" Title="Why does my miter saw cut 45 degree angles differently?" Tags="|miter-saw|miter-joint|boxes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14215" CreationDate="2022-11-08T17:58:49.460" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another wood to consider is Honduras Mahogany (&lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; Luan, aka Philippine mahogany). This wood cuts smoothly and is very dimensionally stable. It's the staple for acoustic guitar necks. In addition to using it for 30+ guitar necks, I've carved tigers and swans for dulcimer heads with mahogany. I made plans to sculpt a 2/3 life size leopard for which I would have chosen mahogany, with ebony spots, but life got in the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your piece is larger, without much fine detail, you may consider Sugar Pine. I haven't worked with it much but know that, at least historically, it was the choice of &amp;quot;pattern makers&amp;quot; which I think referred to patterns to make moulds for casting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2762" LastEditorUserId="2762" LastEditDate="2022-11-09T19:31:23.253" LastActivityDate="2022-11-09T19:31:23.253" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14233" CreationDate="2022-11-10T18:50:11.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you checked your saw to ensure that when you set it at the 45° stop, the blade is actually 45° to the fence? That tuning process, ensuring that the miter stops (and gauge in general) are set accurately is part of the initial setup process. You should also check to ensure that the blade is 90° to the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These should be checked somewhat regularly. Like any time you need to make a critical cut. If you discover that the miter gauge is off, it's a matter of loosening a couple of screws, setting it right, then tightening them back down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently, I'm using my DWS779 (consider getting the shadow line upgrade kit, BTW, &lt;em&gt;well&lt;/em&gt; worth the extra cash!) for cutting vinyl siding. If I'm cutting at 44.7° instead of 45°, it doesn't really matter much. However, I double checked with my speed square before starting the project anyway. I've not bothered during the project, but most certainly will before I use it again for any important cuts/woodworking projects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2022-11-10T18:50:11.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14240" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14242" CreationDate="2022-11-12T16:52:59.687" Score="2" ViewCount="1142" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would Baltic Birch fall into the &amp;quot;Softwood and Plywood&amp;quot; (coarse thread) or &amp;quot;Hardwood&amp;quot; (fine thread) category when it comes to screw threads?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The application is putting threaded inserts to a Baltic Birch table top so I can attach removable legs. The manufacturer of the threaded inserts (EZ-Lok) &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ezlok.com/softwood-vs-hardwood-when-to-use-which-threaded-insert&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;divides their threaded inserts into two categories&lt;/a&gt;: &amp;quot;Softwood and Plywood&amp;quot; (coarse thread) and &amp;quot;Hardwood&amp;quot; (fine thread) and I'm not sure which to use since Baltic Birch is a plywood made of hardwood plies?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12647" LastEditorUserId="12647" LastEditDate="2022-11-12T17:04:23.297" LastActivityDate="2022-11-12T21:38:15.817" Title="Hardwood or Softwood screw threads for Baltic Birch plywood?" Tags="|plywood|screws|fasteners|knockdown|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14240" CreationDate="2022-11-12T21:38:15.817" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Standard&amp;quot; plywood in the US is generally made of softwood plies, and may or may not have a thin hardwood veneer on one or both sides - so-called &amp;quot;maple&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;oak&amp;quot;, etc. plywood you see in many hardware stores and home centers. I believe that is the kind of plywood EZ-Lok is referring to. The veneer is simply for appearance, and doesn't do much of anything for the strength of the product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, as you mention, Baltic Birch and the similar American Birch plywood products are made with birch through and through, and so would classify as a hardwood. Their fine thread inserts should work well in these sheets. That being said, unless your inserts are going to be subject to extraordinary loads, the coarse threaded inserts should be fine as well. I have been known to use coarse-thread wood screws in hardwood when fine-thread ones weren't available, and I've never had an issue with them. If you are putting the inserts into thinner sheets of plywood, the higher thread count of the finely-threaded inserts may be desirable, but in many cases coarse will be sufficient. Without more details on the dimensions, it's difficult to give more specific advice, but my gut feeling is that either will work here. For utmost peace of mind, though, go with fine. It certainly won't detract from the strength of the connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2022-11-12T21:38:15.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14244" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-13T19:11:46.717" Score="1" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 30&amp;quot; cedar round is 3years old, cut down the middle for 3 months. All sides coated with Thompsons water seal for one year. Split round had zero checks until one week ago, now several 1&amp;quot; exterior checks. Need to start this carving, I'm wondering if I reseal new exposed carved wood would this do any good, and what other preventitive measures can I take?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12701" LastEditorUserId="32" LastEditDate="2022-12-17T02:34:29.110" LastActivityDate="2022-12-17T02:34:29.110" Title="Will application of Anchor seal on a daily basis after doing some carving (for a 30&quot; red cedar mask) provide any likely benefit?" Tags="|carving|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14245" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14248" CreationDate="2022-11-13T22:54:20.497" Score="7" ViewCount="697" Body="&lt;p&gt;*UPDATE: For those interested in how I achieved the design, skip to 'CONSTRUCTION'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've constructed the following circular cutting board out of hexagonal sections of plywood and I'm trying to get the smoothest possible sides. As you can see based on this design, the grain is in all different directions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1WvoU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1WvoU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cutting board&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried straight flush trim bits but they result in a lot of tear out. I've also tried making a jig which allows me to rotate the piece so the side brushes past a belt sander but I end up with flat spots. I was thinking about spiral up/down cut bits or compression bits but my understanding is they focus creating a smooth edge as opposed to solving the problem of cleanly cutting through wood where the grain goes in all directions like in my case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some recommendations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CONSTRUCTION&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I copied someone's design from TikTok. I used baltic birch plywood and cut pieces on a 60 degree angle using the table saw:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BFwzt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BFwzt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Baltic birch on 60 degree angle&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then glued sets of 3 pieces together to form hexagonal rods:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kJLKU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kJLKU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hexagonal rods&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then cut the rods into pieces:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LsDZ6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LsDZ6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hexagonal pieces&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And glued the pieces together to form a board:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sS8CB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sS8CB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hexagonal board&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then glued all the pieces together to create a large enough form from which I could get a circle of the desired diameter. Due to sloppiness in cutting the hexagonal rods I had pieces of varying heights and required planing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ztJsr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ztJsr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Big enough board pre-planing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then made a very basic planing jig and used a router with a surfacing bit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g6xb1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g6xb1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Planing jig&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...which resulted in a board of uniform thickness from which I cut a rough circle with the bandsaw using a templating router bit and a template which I double-sided taped to the cutting board:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AF4GQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AF4GQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Router bit&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yJJ16.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yJJ16.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Board with template&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resulting in:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UqZ7f.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UqZ7f.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Planed board cut to circle&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the previous process resulted in a lot of tearout (due to my poor gluing and wood grain going in many directions) I made a simple jig to rotate the board against the belt sander to try and further smooth the edges. This process left flat spots because I used a sanding cylinder with WAY too large a diameter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/49NJ9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/49NJ9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sanding jig&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that's when I posted this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12702" LastEditorUserId="12702" LastEditDate="2022-11-21T21:52:24.983" LastActivityDate="2022-11-21T21:52:24.983" Title="How can I avoid tear out and get a smooth side on a circular plywood cutting board where the grain runs in various directions?" Tags="|router|router-bit|end-grain|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14245" CreationDate="2022-11-14T03:54:40.027" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to get the smoothest possible sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TBH if the results in this one photo are fairly representative, what you're achieving already is pretty darned good :-) Many would be happy with this and &lt;em&gt;maybe&lt;/em&gt; would apply filler&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; followed by a last router pass and/or a couple rounds of sanding to finish off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried straight flush trim bits but they result in a lot of tear out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A certain amount of breakout may have to be accepted with this material, however you may be able to reduce it noticeably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the ways to minimise or avoid breakout (and burning) from any routing operation is not to do it in a single pass. If instead of the norm you take off the bulk of the material with one or two initial cuts and then go for what some call a 'dust pass' you can &lt;em&gt;greatly&lt;/em&gt; improve results. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/13098/what-is-a-dust-pass/13100#13100&quot;&gt;What is a &amp;quot;dust pass&amp;quot;?&lt;/a&gt; for more detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, since you have access to a belt sander that may offer a competitive and possibly superior method, once you're set up right to do the sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also tried making a jig which allows me to rotate the piece so the side brushes past a belt sander but I end up with flat spots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this indicates that your jig doesn't work as it should — the whole point of such a jig is to semi-automate the process, avoiding the possibility of flat spots. A firm pivot point (moveable or fixed depending on how many diameters you need to produce) seems to be the key feature of any circle jig for router table, bandsaw, sander or table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's probably worth noting that given the multitude of grain directions in the plies there's no guarantee you won't still get some breakout here and there when belt sanding!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about spiral up/down cut bits or compression bits but my understanding is they focus creating a smooth edge as opposed to solving the problem of cleanly cutting through wood where the grain goes in all directions like in my case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe you're correct here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition such a bit wouldn't help with the roundovers! And again if the photo is representative this is where it seems a lot of your breakout is occurring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some recommendations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the above, it could be worth looking at the videos and/or writing of people who do a lot with &amp;quot;patterned plywood&amp;quot;. On YouTube Michael Alm could be the best person to start with&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; And this could be a good candidate for a DIY version, made from glue and fine sanding dust (or fine dust sifted out from your router waste).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; But that might just be based on &lt;em&gt;my&lt;/em&gt; viewing history; since I don't look at a lot of videos of this type and don't do related searches what is being shown to me in my feed could well be a 'content bubble' that hides other channels, something YT is notorious for. So there could easily be any number of other content creators worth hunting for — including by searching externally, rather than relying entirely on the internal YT search engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-11-14T03:54:40.027" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14219" CreationDate="2022-11-14T04:25:52.290" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As explained above, residue from the wax is a major PROBLEM!!! You said butcher block so I'm sure hard maple or close which is good in this situation. I can't access picture so if it's open like oak just forget it! Otherwise it's belt sanding. Don't waste your money on wax wash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would start with 100 grit then 120 grit. When you think you're done, do it again! You gotta make some sawdust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When all is said and done palm sand at 120 or 150 grit. Then, use aerosols. Mohawk Finishing has sanding sealer and satin lacquer in a can. Seal 1st and then use 400 grit paper and lightly sand to smooth, you'll be lifting the grain. {With maple I always brushed water on, dry in a couple minutes and palm sand at 120 or 150. to lift grain, you'll see it better in finished product.} 2 coats lacquer with 400 or 800 grit hand sand between coats, lightly, takes 2 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't get the wax out you'll get 'fish eyes', you'll know them when you see them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12703" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-11-14T04:43:00.943" LastActivityDate="2022-11-14T04:43:00.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14218" CreationDate="2022-11-14T04:46:58.270" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sir, where I come from your farmhouse pine table is called a picnic table.{ VT} Picnic tables are relatively cheap because of the materials their made from. I suggest the back lawn is a more appropriate location. When wood is 'kiln ' dried the moisture content is taken down to under 7 % and when removed from the kiln the content goes up . Green wood is never cured and is used for picnic tables because it splits.....is what it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12703" LastActivityDate="2022-11-14T04:46:58.270" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14251" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14255" CreationDate="2022-11-15T05:31:27.313" Score="1" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm want to make some 8 foot shelves with 2x8s. I want to set them in a 2x8 on each side with dados. It's my understanding that an ideal depth for the dado is 1/3rd of the thickness, so I would cut them at 1/2&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thought (hope) is that with a 2x8, this is sufficient. That the shelves should remain straight over time without the need for any support across the middle of the shelves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What say you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8139" LastActivityDate="2022-11-15T22:38:18.747" Title="Do I need any support for 2x8' shelves jointed with dados?" Tags="|strength|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14174" CreationDate="2022-11-15T15:51:54.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, 1x8 or wider boards are often better quality than 1x4's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just for comparison as a sanity check: My standard &amp;quot;student bookcase&amp;quot; design was four 4' 1x12's screwed together as a frame, plywood 4'x4' back screwed in place all around to help provide stiffness, slightly shorter 1x12's (to fit inside) resting on adjustable shelf rails. Not pretty but not bad looking, can be thrown together in a few hours, has held up for decades overloaded with books... And because it is just held with screws, when it eventually outlives its usefulness I can disassemble it back into useful lumber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2022-11-15T15:51:54.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14251" CreationDate="2022-11-15T22:38:18.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even for many worst cases in terms of load (lots of heavy books) and the stiffness of individual boards this should give an acceptable result. With multiple rows of paperbacks or particularly heavy hardbacks you may get visible bowing, but it should be within acceptable limits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The figures given in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Sagulator&lt;/a&gt; are a useful starting point for basic shelves like you're planning but don't give a fuller picture. So if your shelves need to support significant loads (particularly in the middle) and you want to err on the side of caution here are some factors to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cherrypick your boards&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; so the grain is as uniform as possible and with the fewest and smallest knots. No knots would be the ideal, but may be impossible on a practical level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Because the species used in the 2x material you'll be buying is an unknown&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; it's impossible to be know in advance what species you're actually buying, and therefore what to select in the Sagulator. This goes beyond the wood being S, P or F (spruce, pine or fir).... even if they are pine there are multiple species used across the US and they vary enormously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, aiming for the best in relation to both of the above, depending on your location it may be worth buying 2x10s or 2x12s and ripping them down to width. In addition to this very likely allowing you to select for more uniform grain and fewer knots, the species chosen for x10s and x12s is often better wood than that used in 2x material of smaller dimensions&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Even if this requires more than one visit to the vendor, or checking the stock in more than one vendor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; This goes beyond the wood being S, P or F (spruce, pine or fir).... even if you knew for sure they were pine there are multiple species used across the US and they vary enormously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Boards of larger diameter possibly being SYP versus white pine or a spruce.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-11-15T22:38:18.747" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14256" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14258" CreationDate="2022-11-17T23:49:49.363" Score="-2" ViewCount="303" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Record Power Dust Extractor with a 4&amp;quot; inlet pipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.recordpower.co.uk/product/55l-1000w-medium-extractor-4-inlet#.Y3bGMS-l2L0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.recordpower.co.uk/product/55l-1000w-medium-extractor-4-inlet#.Y3bGMS-l2L0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking to hook this up to a DWE7485 table saw using the DeWalt DWV9470-XJ AirLock Y Splitter Hose Kit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dewalt.co.uk/product/dwv9470-xj/airlock-y-splitter-hose-kit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.dewalt.co.uk/product/dwv9470-xj/airlock-y-splitter-hose-kit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone happen to know the dimensions of the DeWalt Y Splitter hose kit? I need to know what I need to step down to from the 4&amp;quot; outlet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no mention of pipe dimensions on the DeWalt site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12717" LastActivityDate="2022-11-19T05:46:15.327" Title="Dimensions of DeWalt Table saw DWV9470 Hose" Tags="|table-saw|dust-collection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14256" CreationDate="2022-11-19T05:46:15.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the listings of a couple of vendors — e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.toolnation.com/dewalt-accessories-dwv9470-xj-airlock-y-splitter-dust-extraction-set.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Toolnation&lt;/a&gt; — the diameter is &lt;strong&gt;32mm&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Y-adapter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 x flexible suction hoses (each diameter 32 mm / 1.4 m)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x AirLock-adapter (DWV9000-XJ)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As this might help for similar searches, typing &amp;quot;DeWalt DWV9470-XJ diameter&amp;quot; into Google gave results on the first page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like on the DeWalt site numerous other listings don't give the diameter, including the ones on Toolstop and Amazon.co.uk, although the latter does go to the trouble of listing the &lt;em&gt;exact&lt;/em&gt; dimensions of the box it comes in (‎44.96 x 34.8 x 12.7 cm) and that it's 130.41g..... those last .6mm and .41 grams, so important :-|&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But anyway, you can get to it by another route: what it's compatible with. Even the Amazon listing for the DWV9000 Universal Connector includes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Universal allows for quick, easy and durable connection between &lt;strong&gt;1 1/4&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt; Vacuum hose and various DW tools &amp;amp; shrouds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 1/4&amp;quot; = 31.75mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that there's no way to know which direction the rounding occurs, in case this might affect fit to any third-party adaptors you end up using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-11-19T05:46:15.327" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14259" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14262" CreationDate="2022-11-19T09:32:09.373" Score="1" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;I decided my miter saw would be the most convenient way to cut some dados on a 2x8. I have a set screw to adjust how deep the saw will go, however there is a tab with a hole that can be shifted in order to ignore the set screw. As I was cutting, this tab shifted and one of the cuts went a bit deeper than it was supposed to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is for some shelves I'm putting up in my own garage, so I think I could probably do nothing about it and it wouldn't be an issue. But supposing I was doing this for someone else, would wood putty be a reasonable way to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: to be clear,it's just a single saw slice that went deeper, but it did go about an inch deep (2/3 of thickness).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8139" LastEditorUserId="8139" LastEditDate="2022-11-20T05:40:00.243" LastActivityDate="2022-11-20T05:40:00.243" Title="Is wood putty an appropriate way to fill a miter saw slice that went too deep?" Tags="|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14260" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-19T13:49:29.463" Score="1" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a bookshelf. There are going to be 3 fixed shelves attached with sliding dovetails. The top shelf is 1/4 inch from the top of the side. The bottom and middle shelves went in fine, but the joint on the top shelf was a little too tight and the wood above it cracked. (I had to pound the shelf in with a rubber mallet, which I realize now was a mistake)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking that I could just cut the tail a little bit looser. It is very dry right now, and I was wondering if when it gets humid in the summer, will the expansion of the tail cause the top to crack off again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wood I'm using is white pine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dovetail is 1/4 inch deep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/roSEY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/roSEY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NLPOU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NLPOU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UB8Ab.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UB8Ab.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x2E1O.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x2E1O.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PtfIL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PtfIL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in Maine, and my house does not have air conditioning in the Summer, so there are considerable swings in humidity throughout the year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a heated shop, so I made the book case outside. The cracking happened as soon as I pounded the shelf in, not after bringing the shelf inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2022-11-20T00:18:39.757" LastActivityDate="2022-11-20T00:18:39.757" Title="Sliding dovetail expansion" Tags="|dovetail|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14245" CreationDate="2022-11-19T19:04:05.807" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If smoothest is your goal, then gloves, 1/2 sheet of fine grit sandpaper and work it. Too much work? Try a very very flexible rubber 6&amp;quot; drill mounted sanding disc start with 220 or 400.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12701" LastActivityDate="2022-11-19T19:04:05.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14259" CreationDate="2022-11-19T22:21:35.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well &amp;quot;wood putty&amp;quot; covers a lot of ground, so a lot would depend on the exact product you meant. But given how deep the errant saw cut went I think you really should fill the gap with something structural, which would rule out most putties which are intended only for cosmetic work (and typically weak and crumbly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wood&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I think ideal the way to fill this is using wood, and the grain should ideally be in the same orientation as the board. Although making such a thin cross-grain slice and getting it glued into the kerf in one piece will pose a challenge actually it doesn't need to be in one piece. Even if you had to resort to glueing in individual pieces cut from a narrower board once glued in place and the glue sets the pieces will act the same as a one-piece strip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Epoxy&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If you don't fancy the above idea I would resort to using thickened epoxy (epoxy&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; + sanding dust&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;) as the easiest, very strong, alternative&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;. Place the board flat on the floor, tape off both ends of the kerf as dams and then, protip, heat your groove well with a hair drier or more carefully with a heat gun — when the epoxy touches the warmed wood it will instantly liquefy and flow into the kerf better. Now mix your batch of epoxy and spoon or dollop it in, then use coffee stirrers or other tools to help work it into the groove. While you can use &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/11505/what-is-the-strongest-wood-filler/11506#11506&quot;&gt;any consistency&lt;/a&gt; you prefer I would recommend going no stiffer than approximately the consistency of mayo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are commercial epoxy putties sold for woodwork of course but their working times tend to be pretty limited, which along with the stiffer consistency will make filling a saw kerf bothersome. Plus they're not cheap, and as mentioned in the link included the 'Tootsie Roll' format they tend to come in means you never know in advance if what you buy will reliably blend to a smooth, homogenous mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; You don't need a sophisticated epoxy, most dollar-store 5-min epoxy is actually pretty decent and good enough for this sort of thing. You might have to fill in 2-3 stages rather than all in one go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; If you don't have enough sanding dust available you can supplement it with other powders found at home, principally wheat flour or cornstarch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-11-19T22:21:35.820" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14263" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14264" CreationDate="2022-11-19T23:52:17.027" Score="2" ViewCount="330" Body="&lt;p&gt;This trim is 60 years old and had at least 6 different layers of paint which resulted in it being difficult to see the delineation between the multiple layers of trim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used smart strip. It worked great, but it also seemed to damage the wood and make it look stringy. It's way past fuzzy, it's hairy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I fix this? Can it even be fixed?&#xA;Will it be sandable once it's totally dried?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/31JDD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/31JDD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;Or is the only solution to paint some glue on to secure the fibers, add wood filler to the damaged spots, and then paint over it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point I'm thinking the easiest thing to do is remove the trim, and let it dry thoroughly in the sun after using the citric acid neutralizer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking that removing the trim from the wall will make it easier to work on and hopefully fix it, especially that small curved piece on the inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My spouse thinks that this was installed by a professional trim carpenter and that we'll never be able to reinstall it correctly if it's removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hiring someone is not an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12721" LastActivityDate="2022-11-20T18:23:48.150" Title="Used paint stripper on interior trim, wood now looks stringy. Is this repairable?" Tags="|wood-repair|refinishing|paint|trim|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14263" CreationDate="2022-11-20T18:23:48.150" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't say for sure, but I strongly suspect that a good hand sanding (start at 60, work your way up) will fix all that ails you. Wear gloves to minimize splinters. And if it doesn't produce the results you want, you really aren't any further behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a general statement, removing and reinstalling trim can cause problems. Old wood can be brittle and prone to breaking. You'll probably have plaster damage that then needs to be remediated. You might discover twists/warps that were previously held in check by nails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2022-11-20T18:23:48.150" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6304" CreationDate="2022-11-20T21:41:21.397" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't believe that no one gave you an exact answer using math.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basics of the problem is that you want to set you saw fence to a position that results in the blade perfectly bisecting your board to give you two equal parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two run method (set the fence and cut both pieces to same setting) works but is inefficient and wasteful. You have to make two cuts instead of one and you have an offcut or more sawdust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other method does not account for the kerf (width of the blade).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third answer is correct, all of your French cleats do not have to be the same width. I have two issues with this generic answer. First, you have to remember which cleat is the widest to make all of your hangers with this sized notch if you ever plan on moving them. Additionally, perfectly cutting a board in half doesn't only apply to French cleats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now for where to set your fence on your table saw:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Half the width of the board - half the thickness of the board - half the blade kerf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We could make this a little easier to read by using a few variables instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(W - T - K) / 2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, lets say you have a 5 inch board of 3/4 Walnut. Then half the width would be 2.5 inches. Half the thickness would be 3/8 (0.375 inches). If your blade kerf (thickness) is 1/8, then 1/16 (0.0625) would be half.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With these numbers, the fence would need to be set at 2 1/16 to cut two perfect halves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12725" LastActivityDate="2022-11-20T21:41:21.397" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14266" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14279" CreationDate="2022-11-21T06:51:20.657" Score="-1" ViewCount="133" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know how to flatten a plane, but I've got one that's a little too uneven for me too care to spend the time fixing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any kinds of shops that have machinery to do this easily for a reasonable fee, or am I better off just trashing it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: It's a Buck Bros plane... I'm pretty sure it's the same one shown in this picture. So very cheap I believe; I wasn't familiar with the brand before I purchased but it was part of a bigger deal of many tools on Craigslist. In any case, I've been wanting one this size and I still think it would otherwise work nicely if the sole was flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I asked is because I saw someone else on the internet in a years old post mention taking it to a shop and that it was inexpensive to do so... perhaps he was getting mates rates though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On another note I also read about someone flattening with a belt sander. Any reason not to try that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BuvB3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BuvB3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8139" LastEditorUserId="8139" LastEditDate="2022-11-28T20:49:50.893" LastActivityDate="2022-11-29T05:03:07.063" Title="How to find service to flatten plane?" Tags="|plane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14269" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14271" CreationDate="2022-11-23T21:31:59.703" Score="0" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cabinet on my bathroom had some water damage on one of the sides. I sand it and also used a chisel to remove the damaged area. The material that I removed looks like &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m1peH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m1peH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;wool/cotton&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how it looks the surface after sanding it: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hOTzI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hOTzI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;This&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. Should I apply wood filler, and then sand it before prime/paint, or there is another way to fix this? I don't even know what type of wood this is. Could you clarify this too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12492" LastEditorUserId="12492" LastEditDate="2022-11-23T21:37:32.870" LastActivityDate="2022-11-24T13:44:13.930" Title="How to fix this water damage in what seems to be particle wood?" Tags="|wood-repair|water-protection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2136" CreationDate="2022-11-24T01:22:03.953" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My mom taught me to never use tack cloths for that reason. You can remove the leftover residue with mineral spirits. After sanding, I wait 3-8 minutes for dust to settle. Then, wipe down with a damp micro fiber cloth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12732" LastActivityDate="2022-11-24T01:22:03.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14269" CreationDate="2022-11-24T03:24:18.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sort of fluffy, fibrous material indicates MDF or HDF (medium-density or high-density fibreboard, e.g. hardboard) rather than particleboard/chipboard. The clue to the nature of these materials is right there in their names, with the first two made from wood fibre and the third from particles or chips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your second picture it looks like there's a thin layer of this fibre-based material with a wood veneer under it, which suggests MDO (Medium-Density Overlay, a type of plywood) except that MDO should be waterproof and is unlikely to be badly affected by some exposure to water — MDO is popular for exterior signage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So there's a chance this is just a thin sheet of standard MDF or HDF glued to a substrate of plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I apply wood filler, and then sand it before prime/paint, or there is another way to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're happy with the flatness then you could prime and paint now; obviously you want to use waterproof or at least water-resistant paint. Less obviously, you need to take care to seal the bottom edge, where any standing water has plenty of time to wick into the edge. If this bottom edge had been sealed well initially it's possible the damage would never have occurred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to make the surface more level you can of course fill, but two cautions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Many wood fillers are not made for this kind of fill work and won't spread well, and additionally won't adhere strongly in large (and thin) applications like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It's challenging to get a large fill good and flat, especially in situ, no matter what filler material you use!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of 1. it seems to be very common to fill shallow defects (over a large area) using fillers not originally intended for use on wood, such as automotive fillers like the original Bondo. Note that many or most such fillers are two-part products which require blending a small amount of hardener into a larger mass of putty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-11-24T03:24:18.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14269" CreationDate="2022-11-24T13:44:13.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agree completely with the answer by @graphus but to suggest an alternate approach: skin the side of the cabinet with something new and avoid all the sanding/filling/etc. The only detail you’d have to figure out is what kind of a piece of wood you’d want to put on the raw front edge. Prime paint all the hidden edges and surfaces. Apply whatever finish you want to the visible face. Caulk the joints where water might pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’d still prime paint the old stuff thoroughly to help with future problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2022-11-24T13:44:13.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14274" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-24T23:01:42.390" Score="2" ViewCount="453" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old british piano from the 1950s with some kind of varnish/lacquer/shellac finish. I wasn't thinking and sanded it down (which messed it up but that's another story), and now I'm worried I might have created lead dust. I read that lead acetate was used as a drying agent in certain finishes up to the 1970s. Is there legitimate reason for me to be worried?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12735" LastActivityDate="2022-12-01T14:57:03.347" Title="Could there be lead in the finish of a mid-century piano?" Tags="|furniture|refinishing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14274" CreationDate="2022-11-25T13:33:22.650" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could there be lead in the finish of a mid-century piano?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The short answer is yes, some lead &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Not with shellac&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If in its original finish the piano is unlikely to be coated in shellac because it was obsolete as a commercial finish long before the 50s. However its use is still a possibility and since it is very easy to test for shellac that should be the first thing you should do. Of the three finish possibilities only shellac is soluble in alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;If you discover it is shellac on all parts of the piano you're done.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find it's not shellac there's no point in trying to distinguish further if it is varnish or lacquer because both might contain some lead drier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If it's not shellac, then what?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;As @Max rightly points out in the Comments the next step would to buy a lead-test kit and use as directed. If the instructions don't specify be sure to test multiple spots as there could have been local, or complete, refinishing during the piano's lifetime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If the test is positive for lead, don't panic&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Unless there are infants or young children (under 5) in the house, or you or your partner are pregnant, there's no need for excessive concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not suggesting you be cavalier about the dust (which you'll want to clean up carefully, wearing a mask!) but do be realistic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is a one-time exposure to a small amount of sanding dust.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Second, the lead compound would represent only a tiny proportion of this small quantity of sanding dust — possibly as low as 0.25% — so this situation is not at all like sanding lead-white paint which is packed full of lead (it was a primary ingredient, not an additive).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To further put your mind at rest, bear in mind that &lt;em&gt;old varnish or lacquer don't have regs concerning their removal as there are with lead-white paint&lt;/em&gt;. This does tell us something.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-12-01T14:57:03.347" LastActivityDate="2022-12-01T14:57:03.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14266" CreationDate="2022-11-29T05:03:07.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To get this done commercially, what you're looking for is any sort of light-engineering or metalworking facility that offers &lt;strong&gt;surface grinding&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surface grinding is how very flat surfaces are achieved in many metalworking applications and it is how most or all planes have their soles flattened in the first place&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As this is a modern mass-market plane (or low-end plane, depending on how uncharitable you want to be) it's unlikely you'll be able to find a service that will do this for a fee that makes sense — if done on the books, their minimum charge per hour could more than double the effective price of the plane (if bought new).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other (cheaper) possibility that has been mentioned in some posts online is looking for a nearby high school that teaches metalwork, where the shop teacher might take on the project for fun/as a teaching example. But the almost complete disappearance of metalworking classes from American high schools (source: mrpete222/tubalcain) now makes this possibility remote.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;And it's worth realising in advance that neither of the two options above would come with any sort of warranty.&lt;/em&gt; Without proper fixturing — clamping in place to prevent movement, as well as providing good support to prevent flexing — the grinding could be completed and the sole could still not be flat, in just the same way that rounds of sanding can be done and when the sole it checked it's found not to be much flatter than before.... or even worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QEHa5.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QEHa5.png&quot; alt=&quot;Plane being ground&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.finewoodworking.com/forum/machining-service-for-handplanes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;machining service for handplanes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, as this is a cheap plane spending much more than maybe the price of a coffee or two on flattening the sole doesn't seem to make economic sense. But there's good news below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On another note I also read about someone flattening with a belt sander. Any reason not to try that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the platten is long enough and flat enough, you do it carefully, and you are suitably cautious of the sparks which can theoretically start a fire this is one of &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; ways one can speed up the process of flattening a plane sole (or working a cheek square to the sole&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;) in the modern workshop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The sole doesn't need to be flat for the plane to work&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;As this is a jack plane, used for its original purpose — as a type of roughing plane (think of it as a big-ass scrub plane) — then the sole doesn't need to be particularly flat for it to work as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without getting into it too deeply, 5s are too long to be effective smoothers and &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; too short to be effective jointers&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;, so their original role is the only one that really makes sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I would advise not chasing flatness on this plane and seeing how it works as-is once the iron has been sharpened with a suitable camber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Obviously this plane should be very flat as a result, as the box promises. But it appears that most cheaper planes (and some that aren't cheap at all!) are ground when the rough castings haven't been allowed to 'season' properly..... no surprise, as reputedly this takes years to fully complete. When you don't wait long enough, after grinding some distortion can occur due to the cast iron still settling down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Note that this is not actually necessary. Including if the plane is used for shooting!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Even 6s at ~18&amp;quot; long are generally considered a little short for this (you want &lt;em&gt;at least&lt;/em&gt; an additional 4&amp;quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-11-29T05:03:07.063" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14281" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14282" CreationDate="2022-11-29T14:35:15.627" Score="0" ViewCount="374" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can someone share a recipe for a clear (non-yellowing) oil wax wood finish? I’ve made paste wax from 1 part wax to 4 parts boiled linseed oil before but I’d like an option that doesn’t change the colour of the wood. UV protection would be an added bonus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve heard mineral oil still changes the colour though I haven’t tested. Someone suggested baby oil but I’m concerned about the fragrance that’s added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I asked on &lt;a href=&quot;https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/261163/what-is-a-good-recipe-for-clear-paste-wax-oil-wax-finish&quot;&gt;DIY&lt;/a&gt; before I knew about here&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12748" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-11-29T16:24:44.753" LastActivityDate="2024-03-28T16:55:12.997" Title="Looking for a recipe for a clear oil+wax finish that doesn't change the colour of the wood" Tags="|finishing|wax|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14281" CreationDate="2022-11-29T17:11:12.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone share a recipe for a clear (non-yellowing) oil wax wood finish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but I’d like an option that doesn’t change the colour of the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These two things are mutually exclusive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Virtually all finishes change the colouring of wood at least a little&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.  When people talk about finishes and say something &amp;quot;doesn't change the colour of the wood&amp;quot; they generally mean &lt;em&gt;by much&lt;/em&gt;, not &lt;em&gt;at all&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any finish that contains oil will wet the wood, which results in some colour change. The initial effect is very close to or exactly the same as if you wipe on water or white spirits, although with oil the effect is not transitory as it is with something that evaporates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve heard mineral oil still changes the colour though I haven’t tested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have any version of mineral oil in the house (see next point) just go add some to some scraps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone suggested baby oil but I’m concerned about the fragrance that’s added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Baby oil&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; is merely a light fraction of mineral oil. A useful way of thinking about it is as a progression from heavy to light: paraffin wax - petroleum jelly - liquid paraffin (that's the original name for mineral oil in the UK) - baby oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fragrance is generally a non-issue in the long term because it will soon dissipate, except in an enclosed space such as a box or drawer interior where it can linger for longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve made paste wax from 1 part wax to 4 parts boiled linseed oil&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's not paste wax, that's an oil/wax blend. It's important to distinguish the two things because they are different, but most importantly they act quite differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paste wax is a wax, or mixture of waxes, dissolved in a solvent of some kind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solvent component (which used to be turpentine but is now usually some version of white spirit/mineral spirits) is just to soften the final product&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; and make it easier to apply; after evaporation all that is left on the surface is wax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A true paste wax does most of what you want, it changes the colouring of wood minimally (this does depend a little on the waxes used) &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; is non-yellowing because waxes are very stable, but wax by itself is not a good standalone finish for wood because it provides minimal protection from water, almost no protection from scratches and scrapes and zero protection from dings and dents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chief role of paste wax has always been that of a &lt;em&gt;furniture polish&lt;/em&gt; and that is still where it shines. Pun intended :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Which is generally a good thing, because bare sanded wood doesn't generally look that great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; There are baby oils sold today that aren't based on a petroleum distillate. Various oils of vegetable origin are used instead, but note they are bleached/decolourised to match the consumer expectation of what baby oil looks like!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; To any consistency from somewhat like butter on a cold day all the way to a sloppy semi-liquid mix, but most favour a consistency somewhere in the middle (which is where the majority of commercial paste waxes lie).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-11-29T17:11:12.730" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14274" CreationDate="2022-11-29T17:32:53.443" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to a Wikipedia article on &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lead-based_paint_in_the_United_Kingdom&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;lead-based paint in the United Kingdom&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lead (lead naphthenate) was added as a drying agent to some types of&#xA;paint to ensure the paint surface hardened. In the 1960s this&#xA;practice was phased out for ordinary paint available to the general&#xA;public, however its use has not (so far) been banned by legislation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's certainly possible that the finish on your piano might contain lead, even if the piano were brand new. Whether to worry at this point is a matter of opinion, but I think there's reason to be concerned enough to take the next step and find out for certain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it might help to know more about the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.musicalhow.com/piano-finish-types/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;type of finish&lt;/a&gt; on the piano in question, the only way to know for certain whether there is a problem is to test using a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.epa.gov/lead/lead-test-kits&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;lead test kit&lt;/a&gt;. They're inexpensive and available at any home center (Lowes, Home Depot, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-11-29T17:32:53.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14284" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14286" CreationDate="2022-11-30T15:50:55.967" Score="1" ViewCount="462" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fairly new to woodworking and building some pantry shelves that go on two walls, forming an 'L.' See pictures below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is what is the best way to rout these fairly large half laps? The half laps are 9-1/4&amp;quot; x 6-7/8&amp;quot; x 3/8&amp;quot;. My router base is smaller than the size of the half laps, so there is nothing to support the base without falling into the routed area. I made a simple jig (see picture) that works but I have to reposition it multiple times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I missing something, is there an easier way to do this where I don't have to reposition a jig multiple times?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/so67v.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/so67v.png&quot; alt=&quot;Half lap view one&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fTic8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fTic8.png&quot; alt=&quot;Half lap view two&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jz7kh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jz7kh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Half lap jig&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12750" LastActivityDate="2022-12-01T14:45:49.367" Title="Large Half Lap Joints For &quot;L&quot; Shelving" Tags="|joinery|router|jig|joints|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14284" CreationDate="2022-12-01T09:47:52.547" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;a) Just rout from the outside in. You should always have space for at least half your router base. You can obviously only take one pass as you are taking away the wood the router should sit on. But if you do it in the right direction there will always be &amp;quot;high&amp;quot; wood for the router to sit on. Since you can only take one pass, dial in the depth perfectly on a test piece. (I prefer to err ever so slightly on taking away too little rather than the opposite, makes sanding the assembled piece easier I'd say).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b) Take a piece of plywood, cut an inch or so off a corner and screw your router to the plywood (the bit goes where you cut off the corner). You basically extend your router base by however much you need. Similar to the jigs in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S-iVeb6ob2g&amp;amp;ab_channel=JonathanKatz-Moses&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; video just with a bigger base. Like this you can actually vary the depth and take multiple passes. For the last pass to the mark go back to a) if you have a distance jig or guide for your router-bit combination. This will decrease your maximum routing depth by the thickness of the plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;c) This only works for the joint on your longer board: Use a table saw, preferably with a dado stack if you have one. Set cutting height to half your board thickness (dial it in on a test piece) and start cutting away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;d) Hand tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I'd just go with version a) most of the times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9713" LastActivityDate="2022-12-01T09:47:52.547" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14284" CreationDate="2022-12-01T14:45:49.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is what is the best way to rout these fairly large half laps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's almost never &lt;strong&gt;a&lt;/strong&gt; best way to do things — and not just in woodworking — because different people will have different opinions based on various factors. For this task they might include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;their router (how powerful it is and/or how fast or slow it can be set)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tied in with the above, which bits are available that are suitable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how much effort or time the user is willing to put into making a jig&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how much scrap material is available at the present time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also worth bearing in mind that not everyone would do this by power routing in the first place.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My router base is smaller than the size of the half laps, so there is nothing to support the base without falling into the routed area.&#xA;Am I missing something, is there an easier way to do this where I don't have to reposition a jig multiple times?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A larger sub-base&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; that would allow it to span a jig that would cover the longest dimension needed to do this in one shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But FWIW I think the jig you've built is perfectly adequate for the task at hand, and is more likely to have secondary usage than one made to cover the entire area of this lap joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; a crossing half-lap isn't ideal for a joint face this wide in solid wood, because it's a cross-grain situation and the two opposing directions of wood movement will stress the joint, and could cause other issues with your shelves over time&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;. A half lap of similar dimensions to this would be better reserved for man-made board materials which are dimensionally stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;__&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;em&gt;If any.&lt;/em&gt; Some people are pathologically opposed to making a jig for a single project!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; These are very useful for a number of applications, and many are deliberately asymmetrical so a balancing handle can be placed way off to one side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Including warping and a tendency to pull the support brackets off the walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-12-01T14:45:49.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14287" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-01T16:50:01.847" Score="0" ViewCount="338" Body="&lt;p&gt;Below is a pattern plywood cutting board I am making. I have observed through multiple projects that after sanding the surface becomes dull in tone and the layers of the plywood lack definition and sharpness. The portion circled in red is unsanded and the portion circled in blue has been sanded. You can see the dullness of the sanded area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I notice that if I raise the grain by moistening the surface that the definition is restored, but upon sanding again it will dull.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does this happen and how can I avoid it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SNoHK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SNoHK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Patterned plywood - sanded vs. unsanded&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12702" LastActivityDate="2022-12-03T15:54:40.207" Title="Why does sanding make my patterned plywood project look dull?" Tags="|plywood|sanding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14289" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14290" CreationDate="2022-12-02T08:37:22.713" Score="4" ViewCount="1041" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recognise that this is a very elementary question but I’m new to table saws and no amount of googling has given me an answer to my question (I’m probably using the wrong terms). I want to cut a half lap joint on the end of some 4 by 2. Quite a long piece. What I think I will need to do is a 2 inch cut, pull the work piece back off the blade. Flip it upside down so that I can then complete the cut on the other side (as the blad is not tall enough to cut the full four inches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question, is pulling the workpiece back off the blade seen as being dangerous? I assume it is but then how do you make a cut when you don’t want to rip the full length of a plank?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12755" LastActivityDate="2022-12-08T04:13:37.683" Title="Pulling out of a cut on a table saw" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14289" CreationDate="2022-12-02T09:30:12.493" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think a table saw is the wrong tool for this job.  Trying to precisely manipulate a large piece of wood is always tricky; you can easily slip and damage the workpiece or you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would do is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clamp the long piece of 2x4 to a work bench.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeatedly cut across the 2x4 with a circular saw set to very slightly less than the depth you want to remove.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Knock out the waste wood with a chisel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lay a couple of pieces of scrap 2x4 next to the workpiece, and use a router to precisely finish off the joint.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hand-tools version of the above is using a tenon saw to make the cross cuts, and then a chisel to pare down to the exact depth. I might well do the paring down with a chisel even now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1646" LastActivityDate="2022-12-02T09:30:12.493" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14287" CreationDate="2022-12-03T15:54:40.207" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This appears to be sanding dust. It's typical for wood to lose its luster when sanding as the sanding dust clogs the surface of the wood, making it look dull. A brush, compressed air, a tack cloth or a cloth damped in mineral spirits (as water would raise the grain) can all be used to remove the sanding dust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that being said, there &lt;strong&gt;is&lt;/strong&gt; a difference in how wood looks between cutting and sanding - sharp cutting tools (hand planes in particular) can leave a finish on the wood that's hard to replicate with sanding (even to very high grit), as the wood fibers are cleanly sliced instead of being abraded. Adding a finish on top of that tends to reduce the difference, and leaving a piece unfinished will dull the look from use and handling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2022-12-03T15:54:40.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14289" CreationDate="2022-12-03T16:05:32.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to take a stab at the question in the title rather then the description, for helping people that have a different use case that requires making stopped cuts on the table saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in comments and the other answer, a stopped cut on a table saw does posed increased risk of kickback. There are two ways I can imagine a stopped cut being done:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The piece is fed through the saw until the desired cut depth is reached, then pulled back out. This really is dangerous as it is hard to keep the piece from fractionally angling between the fence and the blade. This can very quickly catch the piece on the spinning blade and cause a kickback.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once the cut is made, the saw is turned off and the piece is moved only when the saw blade has come to a full stop. This is somewhat safer (as the piece can still be held tight against the fence), but still riskier than a regular cut. This obviously also takes quite a long time (most saws take many seconds to fully stop) and would temp the user to use method #1 instead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To sum up, a table saw is not the best tool for making stopped cuts (a band saw immediately springs to mind for that), but it can be done at the increased risk of kickback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2022-12-03T16:05:32.353" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14293" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-06T21:27:51.683" Score="10" ViewCount="3374" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kUD8U.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kUD8U.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;I live in a remote part of the world and ordered this butcher block countertop. It split in transit but no one cares and you can't return anything. How can I fix this best? Dowels? Just glue? No we don't have a hardware and it would take a month to buy any special tool etc. Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12764" LastEditorUserId="12764" LastEditDate="2022-12-06T21:29:04.250" LastActivityDate="2022-12-08T21:01:05.187" Title="Completely split butcher block" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14293" CreationDate="2022-12-06T22:40:57.977" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears that the split is not complete, that is, the wood is still secured at one end. This bodes well for a repair. To keep this aspect of the repair excludes any pins or dowels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trickiest part is to ensure that you have injected a good grade of glue as deeply into the crack as possible. Many wood glues are water soluble, but you don't want to thin it too much. Force as much into the tight end of the crack, perhaps wiggling one side up and down relative to the other, to assist in the travel of the glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fill the open end of the crack in a similar manner, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll want a flat surface, one as flat as possible, protected from glue squeeze-out for obvious reasons. A waxed paper or plastic sheet will suffice, as the glue will be easily removed from these materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the glue is applied, place the block on the surface, protected top and bottom. Load as much weight as practical evenly on the surface of the block. Additionally, force should be applied laterally to squeeze the crack together. If you lack clamps, consider that ropes wrapped around the block can be twisted to create a clamping force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will be a challenging balance between the force applied ninety degrees to the crack and the force trying to lift the center of the board away from the surface. The weight should be distributed closely to the crack, but not concentrated in such a manner as to damage the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another method of squeezing the crack closed is to engage it with wedges applying force from the sides. This will still require pressure from the top and bottom to prevent a &amp;quot;spring-out&amp;quot; in which the crack splits free and the panels jump into the air! The wedge method requires that the flat surface on which the board is placed be able to accept fixed rails which provide force transfer by wedges to the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While searching for a photo to better illustrate the wedge method I've described, I found an even better solution at the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lumberjocks.com/showcase/sticks-string-wedges-its-a-clamp.149230/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;lumberjocks web site&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZrTzb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZrTzb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rope and wedge board clamping&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is far simpler and requires only rope and boards, which should be strong enough to manage the forces and require that the boards be square and true to create a suitably flat result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2022-12-06T22:40:57.977" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14297" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-07T15:39:43.950" Score="1" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have already gotten a lot of great info from some previous questions on here, but honestly speaking, I am trying to find a reliable answer for my ten year-old, son who (probably rightly) doubts my woodworking knowledge.&#xA;I cut a green branch from a very old yew in our yard. Not knowing what I was doing (but thinking perhaps I did), I immediately stripped off the bark and threw the stick in the creek. I had stripped it past the softwood, until it was about 1.5 inch thick and 6 feet long. After it sat on the bottom of the creek for a few days, I brought it to the workshop and clamped it to the bench, where it has now sat for merely one week.&#xA;When my son asked if we could unclamp it, I said no, it needs to sit so it will dry more straight. When he asked how long, I said, I don't know, but probably a long time.&#xA;So after all that rambling, here is my question: Is a long time 2 weeks, or is it more like a year?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12768" LastActivityDate="2022-12-07T18:45:28.190" Title="How long should I leave a green yew stick clamped to a bench for straightening?" Tags="|wood-selection|warp|wood-drying|moisture|bending|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14297" CreationDate="2022-12-07T18:45:28.190" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long should I leave a green yew stick clamped to a bench for straightening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't. That's not how to dry wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Makers of walking sticks and hiking poles, who harvest saplings and branches from the wild as raw material, may aim to harvest fairly straight stock but they don't sweat it if anything suitable is found that has a bend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They'll take it anyway because they know they can bend the wood straighter (dead straight if that is the requirement) &lt;em&gt;after drying&lt;/em&gt;. Heat-bending is how some of the very pronounced crooks at the head of some sticks are formed, and natural bends are taken out by the same methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So that is how you should approach this — and anyway you don't want to tie up your bench and the clamps for the entire drying time, which could be lengthy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How lengthy? The drying schedules you'll find online or in books may tend to err on the side of caution, but stick material is regularly slimmer (much slimmer) than 1.5&amp;quot; in diameter so it may balance out. In which case, as a rough guide, you do probably want to wait a full year if you want the best outcome for your project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; unless you've sealed the end grain well (at both ends of the stick) you can expect to lose inches of material to drying cracks. Again, how much is down to the wood and the drying conditions. You could be lucky and it's under 2&amp;quot;, but in worst cases one or two fine cracks can extend 4-6&amp;quot; even with slow drying in humid conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-12-07T18:45:28.190" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14289" CreationDate="2022-12-07T22:01:24.337" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of using a table saw, if you have access to a sliding mitre saw with a depth stop that would be an easier to manage and safer option. Google mitre saw trench cutting. As previously mentioned, a circular saw is also a reasonable approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12772" LastEditorUserId="12772" LastEditDate="2022-12-07T22:02:36.100" LastActivityDate="2022-12-07T22:02:36.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14289" CreationDate="2022-12-08T04:13:37.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is pulling the workpiece back off the blade seen as being dangerous?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be, depending on how far you've cut. The problem is that when you rip a board some distance, tension in the wood can cause the cut to close up. If that happens, and you pull the board back toward you, the rising teeth at the back of the blade can grab the board and throw it back at you. That's a kickback, and if the board hits you it can do real damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I think I will need to do is a 2 inch cut, pull the work piece back off the blade. Flip it upside down so that I can then complete the cut on the other side&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A two inch cut should be fine. A cut through the thickness of a 2x4 isn't going to close up in just two inches. Also, if you only cut two inches, the end of the workpiece isn't going to reach the back of the blade, so those back teeth won't be in contact with the workpiece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;how do you make a cut when you don’t want to rip the full length of a plank?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were proposing a longer cut, where the end of the workpiece would go significantly beyond the back of the blade, then a safe option would be to cut as far as you want and then shut the saw off. Once the blade comes to a stop, you can remove the workpiece, flip it, and finish the cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you should always use either a blade guard or a riving knife. A guard won't work for a cut that doesn't go all the way through the workpiece, so use a riving knife instead. Both options can help prevent kickbacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, you're going to run into a few issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you're making a half-lap joint, you'll want to cut exactly along the center line of the workpiece. That means you'll set the distance between the rip fence and the right side of the blade (assuming the rip fence is on the right) to exactly half the thickness of the 2x4, so that the kerf ends up on the waste side of the line. However, when you flip the workpiece over to make the second half of the cut, the kerf will be on the wrong side of the line, so you'll need to move the fence by exactly the kerf width so that the left side of the blade cuts along the center line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The blade is obviously circular, so if you cut two inches from both sides, the center of the board will have been missed. Use a hand saw to cross cut the waste (because it's awkward to cross cut a very long piece on a table saw), but the waste piece will still hold on in the center. Break it out, and the cleach up the rest with a chisel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the workpiece is very long, it can be hard to keep it firmly against the rip fence. Use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.table-saw-guide.com/featherboard.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;featherboard&lt;/a&gt; to help you, and also some infeed support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-12-08T04:13:37.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14303" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-08T13:20:44.290" Score="0" ViewCount="263" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to build a desk for the home office area in my attic room. I would like to make a long wall-to-wall desk by gluing together a few big solid wood planks. The total length of the desk should be around 3.6m. However, I cannot bring into my attic planks of that length because they wouldn't fit through the staircase. The longest planks I can manage to bring inside are around 2.5m. Therefore, I am wondering how I can build a 3.6m long tabletop with planks of 2.5m or smaller. Moreover, I would like to build everything with glue alone, that is, I would like to avoid any joinery work, mainly because I don't have the right tools. I know that end-to-end gluing of planks doesn't work, so I was hoping to arrange planks of different sizes as shown in the sketch below, and rely on the edge gluing (in orange) to hold the structure of the table together. The final table would have a total of six legs, one on each corner of the table, and two middle ones evenly distributed along the length of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vcltp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vcltp.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I have little experience with woodwork, I would like to ask the experts here, if such a structure is likely to hold solid. The intended use of the table is a desk for studying/working, so it would not need to support large amounts of weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12778" LastActivityDate="2022-12-08T13:20:44.290" Title="DIY- how to build a long desk tabletop with solid wood planks that are large but shorter than the length of the desk" Tags="|joinery|glue|tabletop|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14305" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-08T15:49:41.253" Score="0" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;Preface: I only have access to hand tools. I am a novice at design and drawing perspectives, I unfortunately only have technical abilities right now because I've only copied other people's work to learn. This is just a spontaneous Christmas present I would like to tackle and help push my woodworking forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on : &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplyeasydiy.com/2014/12/diy-roll-around-laundry-hamper-with_10.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.simplyeasydiy.com/2014/12/diy-roll-around-laundry-hamper-with_10.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will build 4 frames utilizing 1x3s and dowels, I will attach the backing in question here, then attach those 4 frames using dowels again. From there I will laminate a bottom, glue it to the square frame previously built, add some nails and caster wheels, then work on the lid and hinge. I believe this to be solid for simplicity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please understand I am trying to keep it as basic as possible. I just want it all to function first and foremost. I am not going for the world's strongest hamper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: how can I go about adding some nice contrast wood backing pieces to the 4 frames to set it apart visually, rather than a bunch of Home Depot pine? Would glue suffice here, possibly with a few more dowels? Although that would be a ridiculous amount of dowels at that point, I'm not sure I want the back panels to show their joinery, if I have to that's fine of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for your time!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LlD5F.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LlD5F.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Drawing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12774" LastEditorUserId="12774" LastEditDate="2022-12-08T17:22:54.923" LastActivityDate="2022-12-08T17:22:54.923" Title="How can I attach hardwood backing panels to a frame?" Tags="|joinery|hand-tools|boxes|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14293" CreationDate="2022-12-08T21:01:05.187" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Along with &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/14294/7780&quot;&gt;fred_dot_u&lt;/a&gt;'s good answer, if you don't think that's a strong enough repair, you can do a bowtie/butterfly in a couple places to add strength to the repair. This would be done after the glue sets/cures on the crack repair, as you don't want to shift anything while making these cuts and setting the bowtie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Butterfly_joint&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Butterfly_joint&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't done one myself, so I won't try to explain it (and there are plenty of good walkthroughs and videos to search for), but I do know that some bowties are fairly shallow for only surface cracks. With this being a full thickness crack, you would likely want to do a full thickness bowtie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7780" LastActivityDate="2022-12-08T21:01:05.187" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14307" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-09T00:45:32.697" Score="1" ViewCount="323" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to hand planing. I have some S12E cedar and when I take my smoother (old Sargent) to the rough face I just get dust in the mouth and it gets stuck on the board. The blade is sharpened to 1000 grit and stripped and shaved hair with no force. I have the blade forward to keep a tight mouth. What could be causing this? I am not using the cedar for anything. It was some scrap from a project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12785" LastActivityDate="2022-12-10T09:24:04.523" Title="Getting dust with smoothing plane?" Tags="|hand-tools|plane|hand-planing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14308" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-09T08:59:45.297" Score="0" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just had a pretty bad friday morning coffee spilling experience and the coffee seem to have ruined the surface finish of two of my kitchen chairs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w1zzQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w1zzQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either the heat or the acid in the coffee caused this pretty bad spotty whitening within seconds before I dried it away. We have eight of these chairs and are pretty fond of them so I'd like to try to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I don't know what kind of surface finish this is and how I could fix it. It doesn't seem to be oiled but rather some kind of lacquer, shellac or maybe hard wax oil. It's a pretty thin veneer so I don't have too many shots to get it right :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought maybe someone here might have the experience to tell that just by the picture and the description of what caused it…?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12786" LastActivityDate="2023-01-06T14:59:48.107" Title="What finish is this and how can I fix after bad coffee accident…?" Tags="|finishing|refinishing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2349" CreationDate="2022-12-09T13:52:26.683" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have nothing but a &amp;quot;basic&amp;quot; shop set-up, you probably can get by making &amp;quot;funnel&amp;quot; shaped holes (like a 'Y'). Use a larger-than necessary &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drill_bit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;twist drill bit&lt;/a&gt; (twist bits are the most commonly seen type of bits - if you have a basic set of bits, they are probably twist bits) to make a beveled &amp;quot;outer&amp;quot; ring, then a smaller bit to drill straight in. For thin material (like shown in your photo) just drill all the way through with the thinner bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will result in a hole profile like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;\        /    (bevel made by larger bit)&#xA;  |    |      (through-hole made by smaller bit)&#xA;  |    |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of different sizes of twist bit available, so you should be able to find a good match for whatever ball or marble size you are making (this would be difficult for the router bit approach, since those tend to come in a small set of standard sizes aimed at &amp;quot;fluting&amp;quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1925" LastActivityDate="2022-12-09T13:52:26.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14307" CreationDate="2022-12-09T14:05:00.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the rough face I just get dust in the mouth&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This contains its own clue. It's fairly typical not to get shavings at first when planing rough wood, simply because the cutting edge is initially encountering lots of high spots in the texture, rather than a fairly contiguous surface as you get later in the planing process (and later in the planing process is ideally when the smoother should actually be brought to play).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sidenote&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Rough planing should ideally be done with a tool suited to that task. Historically this work was done with a 'roughing jack' or a fore plane&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; and these are still the best way to do this (IF doing the whole process by hand).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although no. 4s are now very commonly used as more multi-purpose tools than they would have been in workshops back in the day, they were never intended to be anything other than smoothers and rough planing is not really in their wheelhouse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and it gets stuck on the board&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an unrelated issue and there are various possible causes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the blade forward to keep a tight mouth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this is the clue to the cause or part of the cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When doing anything other than smoothing — which should result in shavings of no more than a few thou — a tight mouth is actually detrimental to the function of a smoother&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally you may have an issue with the prep or the positioning of the cap iron/chipbreaker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you don't own another plane and need to use the Sargent for this&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Position the frog fully back so the mouth is as open as it can be;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;set the cap iron &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5460/hand-plane-controls-bevel-down/5462#5462&quot;&gt;well back from the cutting edge&lt;/a&gt;;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;ensure the bevel side of the iron is opposite to the cap iron (sorry had to mention this as occasionally newbies put them in upside down, so the bevel is facing the direction of travel);&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;adjust for a heavier cut;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and have at it. The performance difference should be stark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you're down to a reasonably flat and smooth surface convert the plane back to smoothing settings before proceeding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend leaving the frog where it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Set the cap iron fairly close to the edge (see previous link for some rough numbers) and see how it goes. If there are knots and/or other irregular grain you may need to set the iron very close to the edge, IF the goal is a tearout-free surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Adjust for a very very thin shaving initially and go heavier if it feels like this is possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do still get any clogging issues it's likely shavings getting jammed under or up against the cap iron, which means its leading edge needs to be fettled&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you need to do this lots and you want to stick to one plane&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;It would be advisable to have a second iron (and ideally cap iron also&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt;) set up specifically for rough work — i.e. with a cambered edge — that you can swap into your Sargent as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're lucky enough to live somewhere where there are abundant secondhand tools I would suggest picking up a spare vintage iron for this. These can often be had for next to nothing if separate from a plane, or you can buy a basket case of no. 4 or 5 and just steal the iron from it. Do not sweat it if the iron is very rusty and even if quite heavily pitted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to or have to buy new, there are numerous sellers of new irons on AliExpress or eBay. If you still buy from Amazon they may have very similar stuff (possibly the exact same products from the same factories in China) but there may be a markup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; What we now call scrub planes weren't ubiquitous and possibly were only used for hogging off lots of excess material, e.g. to take down excess material from riven boards, which weren't merely rough but could be super rough &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; not at all flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; In actual fact I would recommend that you don't rely on this, pretty much at all. Many many experienced plane jockeys set their frogs in the fully back position (this is, with the front face of the frog perfectly aligned with the rear edge of the mouth) and then literally never touch it again. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/7702/mouth-of-a-plane/7710#7710&quot;&gt;Mouth of a Plane&lt;/a&gt; for a bit more on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Just a quick thing on this, most guides suggest or state outright that this takes &amp;quot;just a couple of minutes&amp;quot; but they're either exaggerating or fibbing. In my experience it &lt;em&gt;usually&lt;/em&gt; takes longer (although occasionally you do get lucky!) and sometimes takes MUCH longer; it all depends on the original shaping and condition of the cap iron you're dealing with (as well as the flatness of the forward part of the back of the cutting iron).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt; With a spare cap iron as well it makes the swap much faster as you can simply drop in the whole iron assembly, instead of having to take off your only cap iron to position it on the cutters each time you make the change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-12-10T09:24:04.523" LastActivityDate="2022-12-10T09:24:04.523" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14312" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14313" CreationDate="2022-12-10T07:16:55.050" Score="0" ViewCount="276" Body="&lt;p&gt;I imagine I must not be the first person, after applying mineral spirits, to think &amp;quot;that's exactly how I would like it to look when I finish it&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what finishes most closely resemble the look of wood after applying mineral spirits? The 2 currently at the top of my list to try are shellac and Rubio Monocoat Pure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8139" LastActivityDate="2022-12-11T17:46:04.450" Title="What finish most closely resembles the look after wiping mineral spirits on wood?" Tags="|finishing|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14312" CreationDate="2022-12-11T17:46:04.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Almost all finishes (clear finishes, i.e. untinted/unpigmented) will replicate this look fairly closely. Just one coat of nearly any oil, including oils that don't dry, will also tend to look quite similar at least initially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But for practical applications almost no finishes are applied in just one coat..... even Rubio Monocoat, despite its name and the manufacturer's application directions, is frequently applied a second time by users :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more conventional film finishes which are routinely applied in 3+ coats, the more coats you apply the more they can begin to stamp some amount of individual character on the wood — due to 'build' and its direct affect on the actual colour (from the thicker film on the surface) and the indirect optical effect this has (reduced light scattering = &amp;quot;deeper&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;richer&amp;quot; colour).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I mention in the Comments appearance is only part of the picture though. And because so many finishes can look similar — just try and tell various finish types apart from looks alone! — the amount of protection offered can actually become the most important deciding factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;So obviously Rubio Monocoat and other hard-wax oils might be great contenders as long as their cost isn't an issue, and the better ones (not all are made equal so caveat emptor!) are suitable for a wide range of project types, including some challenging applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Shellac, if applied lightly, is a good option for a limited range of projects — this thin, shellac offers little protection so it's really only suitable for decorative objects and light-traffic items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The look of shellac isn't quite the same as an oil-based product (although the difference is subtle on some woods). Plus the colour of the shellac flakes used to make the liquid shellac are obviously a factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wiping varnish — any oil-based varnish thinned to wiping consistency (but primarily it's done with poly) — can also be a solid choice if you don't build up too thick a film.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's very easy to apply, available pretty much anywhere and is inexpensive to make, but despite this it can provide decent protection in only 2-4 thin coats. Drying, and particularly full curing time, could be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;CPES — clear penetrating epoxy sealant — might be an option for some users, depending on cost and easy availability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar to shellac, the final look isn't identical because of the different way that epoxy 'wets' wood fibres, but without a direct comparison who's going to know the difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-12-11T17:46:04.450" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14314" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-12T16:44:00.907" Score="2" ViewCount="175" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see many, many threads about fixing scratches in poly.  And the directions on most finishes is to sand with fine (220) before applying the next coat of finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I not leave scratches with the 220?  And so then having to revert to 120, 180, 220 again ect.  I see everything saying just lightly sand before going on to the next coat but I am always getting scratches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I not waiting long enough for it to cure? I would really like to do what I see people do and apply one coat, lightly sand, then proceed to the next coat ect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks a bunch for any help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12805" LastActivityDate="2022-12-12T19:35:42.043" Title="Not leave scratches in poly to begin with?" Tags="|wood|technique|furniture|sanding|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14314" CreationDate="2022-12-12T19:10:58.647" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I not leave scratches with the 220?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Excuse the double negative, but you don't not leave scratches with sandpaper of any grit. The whole point of sanding is to &lt;em&gt;make&lt;/em&gt; scratches. If you're sanding between coats, you might do some scuff sanding to make scratches so that there's more surface area for the next coat to grab onto.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're sanding something smooth it, working from coarse to fine grit lets you remove large scratches (or other surface imperfections) by making many smaller scratches, and then replacing those with even smaller scratches, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And so then having to revert to 120, 180, 220 again ect. I see everything saying just lightly sand before going on to the next coat but I am always getting scratches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, the point of sanding between coats is to make the surface rough enough that the next coat will adhere better. You shouldn't need to &amp;quot;revert&amp;quot; to larger grit to remove any scratches made by the 220, and the finish will fill in the scratches from the 220. If you do go back to larger grits, you'll likely remove more of the first coat of finish than you probably want to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I not waiting long enough for it to cure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know, because you haven't told us how long you're waiting, or what the surface looks and feels like when you start sanding, or what type of polyurethane you're applying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, for either water-based or oil-based polyurethane, the surface should feel dry to the touch before you proceed to the next step. Water-based polyurethane dries faster than oil-based. Check the directions for the product you're using to find out how long to wait between coats (should be at least a few hours), and pay attention to temperature and humidity recommendations. If you continue to have trouble, make sure that your product is fresh (old finishes can take longer to cure, or may not fully cure at all), and try increasing the waiting time. Also, you generally shouldn't apply more than two coats in a single day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-12-12T19:10:58.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14314" CreationDate="2022-12-12T19:35:42.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I not leave scratches with the 220?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't, scratching is what sanding &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everyone you see sanding between coats of finish IS scratching the surface, the scratches are just much more obvious in person than viewed on video or in smallish photos in a magazine or book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how are they getting away with it? It's simple, &lt;strong&gt;the scratches don't matter&lt;/strong&gt; because the next coat of finish fills them in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And there's even better news.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You basically don't need to sand between coats&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Despite what the instructions might say it's not needed to ensure adhesion of the next coat, except perhaps if life got in the way and there's been an inordinately long time since the last coat went on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one reason you might commonly need to abrade the preceding coat is to de-nib it, which is generally just dealing with a few minor specks of embedded dust. This doesn't require sandpaper, it can be done effectively using nothing more sophisticated than the rough side of brown paper!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do need to abrade intermediate coats of poly a little more because e.g. there's some raised grain (should only be a problem after the first coat), or a larger than typical bit of dust landed on the wet varnish, you can sand with 220 but the emphasis should be on &lt;em&gt;lightly&lt;/em&gt; — use just the weight of your arm, nothing more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some woodworkers do prefer to use 280-320 (and occasionally even finer) and obviously with higher grits the scratching is finer and less evident. But remember, the scratches from light sanding don't matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might benefit from having a look at this on Popular Woodworking, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/finishing/the_7_myths_of_polyurethane/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The 7 Myths of Polyurethane&lt;/a&gt; by Bob Flexner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-12-12T19:35:42.043" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14317" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-13T09:52:26.330" Score="2" ViewCount="203" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a table for my dungeons and dragons group. This is the second version of my table, here was my first.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZzmPA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZzmPA.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;For my first table I used 3.5&amp;quot; fence post legs because the table wasn't going anywhere, and it was cheap and easy to cut the post to fit what I needed. This makes the people sitting at the end have limited leg space however.&#xA;Below is a picture of my next design. It measures 72&amp;quot; x 54&amp;quot; x 5&amp;quot;. I would like to maximize leg space, without compromising the stability of the table. With 6-8 people around the table, leaning on it during gameplay, and a TV mounted in the middle, can I place the legs at the corners of the TV? Would it still be stable? What is the smallest diameter legs I can use without to maintain stability? Am I forced to place the legs at the outside corners?&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9dC6O.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9dC6O.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12807" LastActivityDate="2022-12-14T02:37:07.370" Title="How to attach legs to a custom torsion box" Tags="|technique|design|strength|table-making|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14317" CreationDate="2022-12-13T13:46:33.730" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With 6-8 people around the table, leaning on it during gameplay, and a TV mounted in the middle, can I place the legs at the corners of the TV?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe. That's as much as can be said due to the variables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would clearly be better if the legs were positioned near the table corners, as in a conventional table. This is &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; they're near the corners traditionally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you could get away with having them mounted much further in than the convention, depending on other factors. Some of these factors that you haven't mentioned (and possibly haven't considered) which are relevant to the issue of stability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Whether the legs are straight or can have splay.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How stiff the legs are.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How firmly the legs attach to the top.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Whether you include aprons, and if so how deep they are.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Whether some lower rails are acceptable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Splaying the legs gives more stability for any given table design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stiffness of the legs is of course partly a function of thickness/diameter&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, but material is of vital importance also — there's a rough rule of thumb that if you convert a plan from hardwood to pine you have to double the thickness of most pieces. Same principle holds in reverse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aprons increase stiffness/rigidity at the top end (why they're part of conventional table design) and can significantly aid overall stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rails ditto the above for the lower end, which is why they're seen frequently in slim-legged tables, and included in so many stool designs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to summarise:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if you can use hardwood for the legs,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;splay them,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;attach them solidly to an apron&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;firmly fix said apron to the top (v. easy),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and include at least two rails on the long axis (four, at two heights, would be better),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you stand a much better chance of the table being stable enough than many other options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;But&lt;/strong&gt;, there's no way to be sure in advance whether it'll be successful and prototyping it might not be economically viable for a one-off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;One other option to consider, a plywood pedestal&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You're already familiar with torsion-box construction, this is just an extension of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if confined to the dimensions of the TV as you hope for, this might do away with all worries about being sufficiently stable. Particularly if weighted at the floor end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It doesn't have to be fully enclosed (i.e. in could have cutouts) to give some legroom into the centre.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Firm fixing to the tabletop is a snap, just screw through the top into the plywood of the tabletop. Screws can be short, but numerous and give equal hold to fewer much longer screws that go into the framing pieces within the torsion box.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cheap, for the rigidity/stability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Assuming wood here naturally. With metal legs it's a function of shape (cross section) and wall thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Note that the apron pieces don't also have to be hardwood as in a more conventional table. As they're out of sight and aesthetics presumably aren't too vital they could be plywood if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-12-13T13:46:33.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14317" CreationDate="2022-12-13T18:06:16.560" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Moving the legs toward the center creates a greater risk of the table tipping over. This is a significant concern with so many people leaning on it.  Think of what happens if more than one or two people on the same side are placing weight on the top at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The obvious traditional answer has been the pedestal table with a center post supporting the top.  That design style will use braces near the floor extending from the center pedestal out in four directions to create a stable base to resist the tipping forces above. To make this type of design effective the top, pedestal and leg braces must all be well secured to each other and extend out towards the outer edges of the top.  In addition, the depth of the top and bottom cross braces should be 3&amp;quot; to 4&amp;quot; deep to properly transfer the loads from horizontal to vertical and back to horizontal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, you can dress up the design details to suite your style, but the basic structure should be maintained.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JBWi7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JBWi7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pedestal concept&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2022-12-14T02:37:07.370" LastActivityDate="2022-12-14T02:37:07.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2847" CreationDate="2022-12-14T16:04:26.317" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I agree that sanding to give the epoxy &amp;quot;tooth&amp;quot;, for the laquer to adhere mechanically is right. The real test, however, is time.....-depending on what kind of laquer, this combo is prone to crazing after a while, especially if it is a catalyzed laquer, which shrinks with incredible force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12812" LastActivityDate="2022-12-14T16:04:26.317" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14322" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14323" CreationDate="2022-12-14T22:28:05.173" Score="1" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a panel and have imperial router bits. I can only get ply in metric. If I buy 6mm ply, will it create a resistance fit with a slot cut using a 1/4&amp;quot; bit. Not sure if the 0.35mm difference will be problematic or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12814" LastActivityDate="2022-12-15T09:22:19.550" Title="1/4&quot; straight router bit 6mm ply" Tags="|plywood|router-bit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14322" CreationDate="2022-12-15T09:22:19.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't guarantee your router bit will leave a fairly exact 1/4&amp;quot; slot with a single pass&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And you certainly have no guarantee the plywood is 6mm exactly, and/or is &lt;em&gt;consistently&lt;/em&gt; 6mm — perhaps the majority of modern plywood is not consistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Loose fit? No biggie&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Regardless of this, let's say you do end up with a slightly sloppy fit&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, does this actually matter for your application? It doesn't in a few applications including cupboard backs, drawer bottoms and in frame-and-panel construction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the first two, if you do need or want the plywood firmly anchored this can be achieved easily:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;using glue blocks;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brad-nailing the perimeter;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;using framer's triangles or similar at the back/underneath;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;glueing the ply into the slot with a gap-filling adhesive (epoxy being the most common).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the third:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tacking the ply in with dabs of glue (pretty much any glue will do here);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;using foam spacer blocks or balls in the slots removes play and silences any tendency for the panel to rattle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Want a more exact fit?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;As @AloysiusDefenestrate points out in the Comments, running a narrower router bit twice can give you the exact fit you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Unless you have measured the bit with a calipers to confirm the size it's probably safest to assume it &lt;em&gt;isn't&lt;/em&gt; exactly 1/4&amp;quot;. With non-premium router bits it's likely there is some variation bit to bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Bear in mind the reverse might be a possibility!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-12-15T09:22:19.550" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14324" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14326" CreationDate="2022-12-17T05:44:00.947" Score="0" ViewCount="212" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in building something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w3Bby.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w3Bby.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would balsa wood be an acceptable material to use? Balsa is very lightweight, so I'm assuming it'll be easy to work with. It's also very cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan is to paint a wall black and do the same to the balsa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if there any disadvantages I need to be aware of with using balsa (e.g. will it warp after time, etc.)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12820" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-12-17T07:29:23.290" LastActivityDate="2022-12-20T07:45:13.047" Title="Using Balsa for Wood Slat Wall?" Tags="|wood-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14324" CreationDate="2022-12-17T07:23:29.790" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Balsa wood is &lt;em&gt;extremely&lt;/em&gt; soft: you can easily dent it with a fingernail. I suppose you could use it as a decoration on a wall if the wall was up high or otherwise out of reach, but if it'll be anywhere that people, pets, or objects might come into contact with it, you should expect it to be damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what the &lt;em&gt;best&lt;/em&gt; way to paint balsa is, but the wood is quite porous, so I'd expect to need to seal it before painting if you want a smooth surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-12-17T07:23:29.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14324" CreationDate="2022-12-17T08:05:48.560" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to being lightweight balsa is also soft, really soft. It makes pine seem tough, &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; soft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Balsa is either the softest or second softest wood known to man!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While there are many woods soft enough to mark with a fingernail just general handling of balsa can lead to dings, and very bad dents are possible from the gentlest mishandling. This alone I think rules it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if there any disadvantages I need to be aware of with using balsa (e.g. will it warp after time, etc.)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Warping isn't an issue here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Balsa is so soft it really can't be nailed successfully. In general glue alone is used to attach it and this could make installation tricky or very slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the softness didn't put you off the major hurdle to even trying this is the very limited dimensions that balsa is commonly available in, with perhaps 36&amp;quot; being the longest lengths you'll easily find. So for long lengths — very desirable for a project like this — you'd be looking at an online order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A harder hardwood&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; could be the ideal material for wall slats but even common softwood would be preferable. Or, since you'll be painting, plywood. In any case if you want long lengths (e.g. a full 8') you'll either have to make them yourself or it would be a custom order.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Yes, bizarrely balsa is technically a hardwood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-12-20T07:45:13.047" LastActivityDate="2022-12-20T07:45:13.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14327" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-17T15:08:53.850" Score="0" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wanting to add some storage and organisation to my workshop shed and my initial idea was to basically build some frameless kitchen units.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My depth will be 400mm and my total available length is 2m.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking for ease of building, I might do 2 x 1m long units, however I would like a drawer at the top with 2 doors below. a 1m long drawer seems a little drastic, and might not stand up to the amount of weight I put in them... So 2 x 500mm drawers might be preferrable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of questions - How would one go about splitting a 1m long unit to have 2 500mm drawers? Would it be easier to just create 4 x 500mm units?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8149" LastActivityDate="2022-12-20T08:12:07.880" Title="Kitchen/Workshop unit design" Tags="|cabinetry|boxes|drawer|carcass|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14327" CreationDate="2022-12-17T16:53:47.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;1 meter drawers are pretty wide -- they could work, but would have to be substantial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you split the 1m unit into 2 bays for drawers, you could insert a full width shelf below the drawers and have a short upright gable between. You could also hang the drawer glides from the underside of the top, though that could get complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, making 4 smaller units has its merits: they're easier to handle and install solo. On the downside, you'd use a bit more material and it would take a little longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2022-12-17T16:53:47.023" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14329" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-17T19:27:28.323" Score="0" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to build two registers like the below ones. The second one (not shown in the diagram) is smaller but it will still be large, see the below image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The design is not final, I could probably add one 3/4&amp;quot; horizontal edge each at each end instead of finishing with a 5/16&amp;quot; piece, that would be for aesthetic reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can see two ways to put these together:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;-cut the parts to build the left side and use glue and nails (brad nails?) from the side to join the horizontal sort pieces with the vertical edges&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;-the other option would be to use glue and tongue and groove, I already bought the 1/4&amp;quot; tongue and grove bits shown below&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which option is the best ?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Are there better options ?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Is there a better design for this ? (I do not want to use a router to cut the openings as I will not have the material of that size). This will be white oak but for now I am playing around with left overs to build a mock up to see what it would look and feel like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uvMO5.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uvMO5.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4ePv7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4ePv7.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Custom Register 3/4&amp;quot;x31 5/8” x8 1/16”&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Custom Register 3/4&amp;quot;x18 ¼”x 8 3/16”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;apparently there are other ways to do that -the tongue and groove method requires a jig in order to cut the tongue in the short pieces otherwise it the going to splinter... learned that the hard way (mocked this using some leftover wood I had)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The method I am proposing below uses a straight bit and it seems simpler&#xA;The long edges will serve more like a masking role , the short transversals will have more &amp;quot;meat&amp;quot;/wood at the end and they will rest on the subfloor&#xA;This will have to be glued, not sure if side nails would work here. The advantage of this method is that the traversals will have around 3/4 of wood at each end sitting on the subfloor so more solid I would say&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BPJjL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BPJjL.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my first attempt (POC) to build this register using tongue and groove. Unfortunately I used pine (cheap) and it does not seem to be very sturdy, the traversals will collapse. I need to find some oak to try this one more time before giving up on tongue and groove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TpjaQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TpjaQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="497" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-01-11T14:17:04.023" LastActivityDate="2023-01-11T14:17:04.023" Title="Large custom flush floor register - is there a best way to cut and join the parts?" Tags="|joinery|router-table|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14327" CreationDate="2022-12-18T10:42:42.897" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;however I would like a drawer at the top with 2 doors below. a 1m long drawer seems a little drastic&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 1m wide drawer is perfectly doable if you have the confidence to build one. Think about wide plan chests with their full-width drawers built in the days before modern power tools....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, with modern construction methods experienced builders warn that it's difficult to make and install very wide drawers so that there are no sticky points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a 1m long drawer seems a little drastic, and might not stand up to the amount of weight I put in them&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well how much weight were you planning on loading into it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're presumably building from plywood, MDF or chipboard/particleboard, standard for frameless cabinetry. Even using the poorest of these materials (as certainly was common in Europe until recent years) one sizeable drawer in many kitchen installations can hold all a family's saucepans, along with a number of cast-iron pans to boot. Even basic Ikea drawers can have a weight rating of ~55lb (25kg)!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you build/engineer the drawer box properly I'm sure that'll handle the weight no problem, the real limiter is &lt;em&gt;the weight capacity of the slides&lt;/em&gt;, with their related cost&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be easier to just create 4 x 500mm units?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depends on your definition of easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is really subjective. That's a ton more cutting, and some will want to reduce the number of cuts (e.g. because of the risk of introducing errors, more actual work to put together) in the same way that others would prefer to reduce the length of cuts (e.g. perhaps due to lower confidence in their TS skills).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For others neither of those are any limitation because they've worked through their &lt;em&gt;amount of effort required = ugh&lt;/em&gt; issues :-) and can have table saw outfeed set up to easily handle longer rips (or, an assistant), along with featherboards or other hold-in/hold-down devices set up to help ensure accuracy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps the limiting factor here is the total weight of the carcass if you have to install them solo. Certainly 1m wide cabinets can be heavy, and a box that size is always unwieldy; but what are most commonly called French cleats can do a lot to ameliorate this, since you just lift straight up and once over the lip you lower it and you're pretty much done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of your level of gumption bear in mind how much interior space is lost to the double walls between cabinets. Even for 1/2&amp;quot; material, which almost nobody uses&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, it's a full 1&amp;quot; for each junction..... using 3/4&amp;quot; material in total you're going to lose something like 4 1/2&amp;quot; o_O&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Both reasons I would be temped not to use metal drawer slides at all and instead go old-school and use hardwood runners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Although its use should be more common because it can be perfectly suited to many applications where 3/4&amp;quot; is unthinkingly chosen. Plus it can be noticeably cheaper. And of course it's lighter. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=en48E7UVzzc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is the Honest Carpenter talking about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-12-20T08:12:07.880" LastActivityDate="2022-12-20T08:12:07.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14331" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-19T18:18:09.913" Score="2" ViewCount="174" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a pergola installed a month or two ago. The material was Nordic Pine, and it was treated with a layer of isolating finish. I noticed that there are many cracks already in the wood:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T3Q8il.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T3Q8il.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dsa6ll.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dsa6ll.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many more but these are the worst-looking ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least some of these were already present before the finish was applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The person who built the pergola assured me it's not a problem and that it's normal and water won't get in because it is well-isolated. I'm a total novice, but visually it seems like the inside of the wood is exposed to the open air and that water and humidity would clearly get in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to have an awning installed on top of it, using synthetic ceramic tiles (so, not as heavy as real ceramic). So once the roof is installed it at least won't rain directly on the wood. But moisture might still be an issue. However I asked the opinion of the awning person and he said it shouldn't be any issue for him, just that the awning will make it harder for us to maintain the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are the cracks something to be concerned about for structural soundness?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I do anything (e.g. crack off the breaking parts and apply a few more layers of finish) before having the awning installed?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12827" LastActivityDate="2022-12-20T09:53:21.330" Title="Are these cracks in this pergola of Nordic Pine wood something to be concerned about for use as a base for synthetic ceramic roof tiles?" Tags="|wood-movement|moisture|construction|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14331" CreationDate="2022-12-20T09:53:21.330" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the cracks something to be concerned about for structural soundness?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to reassure, and as @bowlturner says in a Comment, large beams do crack/split all the time. Even major structural elements in full-size buildings can have cracks plural in them — occasionally one or more being wide, deep and long — and remain sound. This is in part because most structures are overbuilt, with the overall structure and most or all individual components being stronger than they need to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uc6Df.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uc6Df.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cracks in structural timbers&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, I do want to caution that it is difficult to &lt;em&gt;try&lt;/em&gt; to interpret the cracks in your pergola without seeing the whole thing from multiple angles. And this sort of thing is anyway partly a judgement call, based on a hunches (read: guesswork) rather than sure knowledge of what will happen in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And furthermore I would have some worries myself TBH, and would scrutinise the structure for other telling signs of, well, &lt;em&gt;anything&lt;/em&gt; more to be concerned about. Particularly any more sign of inferior material, which MIGHT be the underlying cause of the splits shown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK, now the reassuring stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't be certain, and the second image isn't large enough to really have a close look, but I think both photos show these members are &lt;em&gt;laminations&lt;/em&gt;. Laminations are in general much stronger and more stable than solid wood of the same dimensions, so the simple fact of their use is a positive sign. One way that they're superior is that cracks starting at one of the outer edges can't propagate through the width/thickness in the way they can sometimes in single pieces of wood — a crack would have to cross a glue line (should be very, very strong) and then continue into wood with a completely different flow of grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a total novice, but visually it seems like the inside of the wood is exposed to the open air and that water and humidity would clearly get in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Humidity isn't really of any concern. Direct rainwater exposure is, but once the roof is on at least some of the wood will have some protection from the weather&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will have to maintain the finish on the woodwork to protect it from the elements, with possibly annual or biannual touch-ups and the occasional complete once-over on all exposed surfaces (perhaps every 5-7 years).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I do anything (e.g. crack off the breaking parts and apply a few more layers of finish) before having the awning installed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where possible (where access allows) I would personally want to glue down errant pieces, if they can be flexed back into position&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; without just snapping off, and IF the surfaces exposed are bare wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where a crack exposes wood that already has finish on it you can't be sure it will glue strongly or at all. I'd probably just leave any such cracks for now as long as there wasn't a hazardous 'splinter' sticking out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Should be obvious but in case not, lower down the wood will have lots more exposure than the wood higher up. The pieces directly under the roof especially will be substantially protected from precipitation and sunlight. Focus attention on the stuff that'll see the most weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Note that doing this cleanly and neatly will require care and attention, and while you can do a lot with masking tape and/or wraps of string or cord you might need some clamps. You'll want to bring yourself up to speed on how to apply glue into cracks as well as how to thoroughly clean up squeeze-out and drips afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-12-20T09:53:21.330" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14329" CreationDate="2022-12-20T10:22:07.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't own a crystal ball but I can almost guarantee that either of your two proposed methods will have been used by someone in the past, and successfully. The first could quite easily be &lt;em&gt;strong enough&lt;/em&gt; for your needs, but of the two the second method is almost certain to be stronger, and it offers advantages in terms of ease of construction. Lots more milling of course, but you definitely gain something for the effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there better options ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can think of some other options but nothing I'd say is definitively better. And anyway it sounds like you already made your mind up about which method you'd prefer to use....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already bought the 1/4&amp;quot; tongue and grove bits shown below&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I don't see any reason not to go with T&amp;amp;G construction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I do not want to use a router to cut the openings as I will not have the material of that size).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You wouldn't want to make something like this from a single board! Building up from pieces is 100% the right call (it would be different if this was plywood). In solid wood the routed grooves would substantially weaken the wood, to the point where breaks in service are virtually guaranteed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-12-20T10:22:07.270" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14329" CreationDate="2022-12-20T20:57:10.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the other option would be to use glue and tongue and groove, I already bought the 1/4&amp;quot; tongue and grove bits shown below&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's how I'd do it. If you don't want the groove to show between the slats, make up some filler pieces that you can glue in the grooves between the slats. The mechanical connection between slats and rails will be much stronger than just glue and nails, especially considering that these covers will be constantly in the flow of hot or cold air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mill the tongues on larger pieces of wood, and then slice those pieces into slats -- it'll be much faster than cutting tongues on each piece individually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2022-12-20T20:57:10.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14335" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-20T21:30:10.707" Score="1" ViewCount="471" Body="&lt;p&gt;More details on what I'm building below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need something to hold 3/4&amp;quot; plywood in place sturdily enough that I can keep my angles correct and mark it; but loosely enough I can take it apart easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could drive screws in and then drive them out and then drive them back in again, but that seems inadvisable, and it wouldn't work where I need to mate the edge of the plywood to plywood (it'll be glued).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I could use an 18-gauge nailer but I am wondering if I could get away with a pin nailer instead, since it'll be easier to pull the boards apart that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will 23-gauge pin nails work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presently I do not own a nail gun of any type (or I would just test it) - I'm going to be buying a nailer for this job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Project details:&lt;/strong&gt; I am building an awkward shaped cabinet (rough design below) that will sit on uneven ground. It's 55&amp;quot; tall. My plan is to build it 'in-place' (i.e. taking measurements on how things actually line up and are level rather than calculating and cutting beforehand).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's made out of veneered 3/4&amp;quot; plywood, 1/2&amp;quot; plywood, and some 2x4&amp;quot; and 2x2&amp;quot;s in unobtrusive places. I need some way to hold half the pieces upright and in-place while I draw marking lines and take measurements.  Then I need to deconstruct it, jigsaw out curves in a couple places after it's been marked, stain it, and then re-assemble half of it (permanently this time).  Then I can measure, cut, stain, and put in the shelves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;General shape:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;┌───\&#xA;│    \&#xA;│     \&#xA;│      \&#xA;│       \&#xA;│        \&#xA;│         \&#xA;│          \&#xA; \          \&#xA;  \          \&#xA;   \          \&#xA;    ────────────&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12830" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2022-12-23T10:37:36.170" LastActivityDate="2023-01-16T18:58:55.783" Title="Can I use a 23-gauge pin nailer to temporarily tack 3/4&quot; plywood?" Tags="|plywood|nails|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14335" CreationDate="2022-12-21T01:02:15.047" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;1-3/8” 23g, if you use enough of them, will probably hold a structure together long enough. (Top tip: don’t waste time trying to lever the old nails out after disassembly. Just bend them back and forth until they snap, usually below the surface.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2” 18g nails would do better if you could bear the marring. Understand the ‘cut’ of the nail, which will affect how they go awry and possibly break through your sheet goods where you don’t want them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And while it’s nice to own every nail size out there, an 18g gun is way more versatile, so if I was trying to buy just one, it would be the 18g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last thing. Safety specs are good. I’ve had brad nails bounce into my face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2022-12-21T01:02:15.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14335" CreationDate="2022-12-21T22:05:20.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of temporarily nailing it, I would try to figure out some way to hold it together with clamps. Less damaging to the wood, easier to take apart, and the cost should be the same or less (since you don't have the nail gun yet). You can probably do what you need using some combination of regular clamps, scrap wood, corner clamps, and/or these corner clips from Rockler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1WkBk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1WkBk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12348" LastActivityDate="2022-12-21T22:05:20.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14343" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-28T05:55:50.060" Score="2" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a router, I need to put V Grooves, mostly on thick MDF. I don't have a router of my own &amp;amp; I'm borrowing one, on the condition I use my own bits. I said yes, considering this is a one-time. Now I'm ordering cheapo bits online &amp;amp; I came across these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Says they're high carbon (steel), rather than (Tungsten) carbide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, will these do it &amp;amp; last me the entirety the job?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zjeuK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zjeuK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12843" LastActivityDate="2022-12-28T10:50:06.990" Title="Carving V Grooves using a &quot;high carbon&quot; V Groove router bit" Tags="|router|router-bit|groove|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14343" CreationDate="2022-12-28T10:50:06.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, will these do it &amp;amp; last me the entirety the job?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is impossible to answer. In part it's because you haven't specified what the entirely of the job is — a single project might involve one V-groove in a dozen pieces, or many grooves in 100 pieces ;-) — but the quality of the bits is of course the other major factor here, and that's a complete unknown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bit pictured is not a high-quality bit going by appearance (good bits tend to look like that's what they are, with high-quality machining and a certain 'crisp' appearance).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, it could still work well enough for what you want to do. There's just no way to know in advance so it's a buy-it-and-see proposition unfortunately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Says they're high carbon (steel), rather than (Tungsten) carbide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW the bit in the photo looks like it &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; have carbide cutters. The darker grey thing sticking up above the red paint at the business end, that's surely a TC insert just like on the majority of modern bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm ordering cheapo bits online&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's more than one way to do this, and some come with a greater assurance you'll get something at least decent, if not actually good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are of course many many vendors selling Chinese-made tooling of various qualities online now. Some pretending their products are something more than they are, others clearly selling Chinese products which will ship to the end user directly from China. I would generally recommend buying from the second type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you buy from certain better-known vendors such as BangGood, who have at least some track record of decent quality in some of their product lines, it's unlikely you'd get a bit so poor it won't last a single project. Even if it's a large project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2022-12-28T10:50:06.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14346" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-02T11:59:58.413" Score="2" ViewCount="1073" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have completed a small woodcarving and finished it using a beeswax paste. I've just found out that the paste uses Linseed oil, which I know can be a combustion risk on rags when drying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a gift and I want to box and wrap it - my question is whether the carving itself could be a fire risk while contained in the box, or if the risk is just for the rags used to apply it? If so, how long do I need to wait before boxing and wrapping? I do not want to give someone a combustible gift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12860" LastActivityDate="2023-01-02T12:40:14.583" Title="Linseed oil fire risk - just on used rags?" Tags="|carving|boiled-linseed-oil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14346" CreationDate="2023-01-02T12:40:14.583" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;my question is whether the carving itself could be a fire risk while contained in the box&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, there's no risk of fire, or more accurately &lt;em&gt;spontaneous combustion&lt;/em&gt;, from a finished item. This can only happen when enough of the oxidising oil is in a confined space with enough air, and enough easily combustible material — one classic example is &amp;quot;a bundle of rags&amp;quot; (although it can be just one rag or paper towel, scrunched up)&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;how long do I need to wait before boxing and wrapping?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly, you could apply the finish, wipe off the excess, then buff it out some time later and wrap it up immediately. That's perfectly fine as far as safety goes. But you should wait as long as your schedule allows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't because of any risk-of-fire reason, it's to give the finish a chance to cure further (reduces the chance of fingerprinting/dulling from handling)&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; as well as simply to allow any smell from the linseed oil a chance to dissipate — while some people love the smell of linseed others find it very disagreeable!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; It can also occur in a pile of wood shavings or sawdust, and apparently a wad of steel wool soaked in a drying oil can begin to smoulder too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; But note this finish is not hard and durable, and provides minimal protection. The surface of any item finished in a typical wax/oil mixture can be expected to get dull over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-01-02T12:40:14.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14349" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14352" CreationDate="2023-01-02T21:19:50.903" Score="3" ViewCount="2696" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like building small projects for around the house, but I don't like exposing myself to the harsh chemicals of finishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What sort of respirator will give me protection against these chemicals so I can safely work with them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7850" LastActivityDate="2023-01-06T10:37:57.787" Title="What kind of respirator do I need to safely work with varnish, polyurethane, and oil-based stain?" Tags="|finishing|safety|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14350" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14351" CreationDate="2023-01-02T17:25:17.490" Score="-1" ViewCount="970" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume some super glue and a nail might hold it together?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q7Pvh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q7Pvh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3NNIs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3NNIs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Yann Stoneman" LastEditorUserId="32" LastEditDate="2023-01-24T17:11:05.700" LastActivityDate="2023-01-24T17:11:05.700" Title="How to fix a wooden chair leg that was cracked?" Tags="|furniture|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14350" CreationDate="2023-01-02T17:41:50.480" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No to super glue. You'll want to get a quality wood glue and wood screws at a minimum. I'd be looking at drilling in some dowel pins, maybe even sistering pieces of wood on either side of the crack. If this is &amp;quot;just a chair&amp;quot;, you might want to just get a ne one. Why chance someone falling if it should fail again. It looks like a crack further up or is it just a scratch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12862" OwnerDisplayName="JACK" LastActivityDate="2023-01-02T17:41:50.480" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14349" CreationDate="2023-01-02T22:44:47.973" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;For normal chemicals and finishes, most tradespeople will wear a half mask (3M are readily available and popular) with an OV (organic vapor) cartridge and at least P95 filtration. (Filtration since you mention the &amp;quot;building&amp;quot; part of small projects.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to size them to fit (fitting instructions come with units -- generally, you should be able to plug the ports and not have the mask leak).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get ones with replaceable filters and ones that are non-replaceable. Prices vary, but I imagine the initial cost of the non-replaceable is lower, but of course they become landfill after the cartridge is done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get into more obscure chemicals/acids/ etc, you'll (almost certainly) be able to find a replacement filter that'll suit the application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit, to address lifespan… turns out, it’s complicated. This, from 3M, seems sensible, if perhaps (understandably) careful. &lt;a href=&quot;https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/150751O/reuse-of-organic-vapor-chemical-cartridges-technical-data.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3M doc on OV reuse&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastEditorUserId="503" LastEditDate="2023-01-04T03:32:27.580" LastActivityDate="2023-01-04T03:32:27.580" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14335" CreationDate="2023-01-03T17:00:23.347" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/14335/can-i-use-a-23-gauge-pin-nailer-to-temporarily-tack-3-4-plywood#comment32048_14335&quot;&gt;Graphus mentioned the &amp;quot;superglue and masking tape trick&amp;quot; in a comment&lt;/a&gt;, but I'll expand:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply masking tape (usually painter's tape) to each surface to be temporarily joined.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then apply some super glue to the tape on one surface (and, usually an accelerant spray to the other surface).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bring the pieces together and (hand) clamp for roughly 5-30 seconds (check your brand of superglue, reduce the time by the amount indicated if using accelerant) and they'll be strongly glued together in the position you held them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To separate the pieces, just pull. The tape will pull away from one piece of wood. Pull the tape off the other piece of wood and throw away all the tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This trick is often used in a wide variety of woodworking situations where you need a strong but temporary bond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2023-01-16T18:58:55.783" LastActivityDate="2023-01-16T18:58:55.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14355" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-05T08:46:23.283" Score="1" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to build a bookcase inside an alcove, on top of some base cabinets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bookcase is to take up the entire alcove width and remaining height of just over 1500mm, and it will be constructed with 18mm birch plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question: I'm wondering how I can secure this bookcase to the wall behind with me opting not to use a backing piece as to show the coloured wall behind?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen others use small L brackets, however that would mean I need space between the top and the ceiling and then use a spacer piece to fill in the gap. And what about the base of the verticals? The same thing, I assume?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For context, there will be books, cameras and other display items on these shelves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1LEHK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1LEHK.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8149" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-01-06T09:42:49.997" LastActivityDate="2023-01-06T09:42:49.997" Title="Bookcase mounting question" Tags="|plywood|strength|mounting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14355" CreationDate="2023-01-06T09:41:29.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I secure this bookcase to the wall behind with me opting not to use a backing piece as to show the coloured wall behind?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally for this sort of thing you have quite a few methods to pick from, but a few of the usual options&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; are not really viable if the bookcase is resting on top of the cabinets, and I think from your description you don't have the space either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the bookcase being supported in this way is very beneficial since it takes almost all the strain off any wall fixings, almost to the point where you're only attaching it to the wall to prevent the possibility of it tipping forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So three screws into plasterboard/drywall with suitable wall plugs, or two screws going into studs or a solid wall will be perfectly adequate here. But obviously use as many screws as you need to feel comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first option I thought of is a single ledger board/hanging board, which you'd simply screw to the wall. This doesn't have to be mounted under the top as is usually the case, it could usefully be placed under the second shelf down (three up from the bottom) where it could also act as a shelf support — you could make this one of the 'heavy shelves'&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option are the very old-school brass hanging plates:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2lAlo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2lAlo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Brass hanging plates&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I think you have no space available at top you'd install these at the back of either of the two upper shelves. It should be easy to arrange shelf contents so these are hidden from view.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously any similar hardware with two or more screw holes could be used instead. I didn't initially think of them but this could include figure-8 fasteners which are very small and unobtrusive, but due to their thickness you may want to route/drill/chisel out a shallow recess to mount them into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Including keyhole hangers and what we now call French cleats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; You could add this under every shelf so they match visually, which will simultaneously remove almost all worries about shelf sag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-01-06T09:41:29.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14349" CreationDate="2023-01-06T10:37:57.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since this will become our main respirator Question that we'll link to in future, I thought it would be worth adding a sort of frame challenge to the idea that respirators are &lt;em&gt;needed&lt;/em&gt; to safely work with varnish and other oil-based finishes that contain mineral spirits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While respirators &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; very advisable for the casual user doing certain tasks (enclosed spaces, long exposure) and may be mandatory for users working around the finishes occupationally, there are other ways you can obviate the risk from working with high-VOC finishes that you can use some or all of the time depending on your circumstances and climate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;doing the work outdoors&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;working in a very well-ventilated space (porch, gazebo, large garage or shed);&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;arranging active ventilation — airflow past the user, then the workpiece/open containers of finish and then outside, e.g. by placing a box fan in an open door or window;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;choose to dilute, rinse brushes and clean up using odourless mineral spirits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use something else&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Obviously another option is to use low-VOC and no-VOC finishes instead. There are some traditional choices here, as well as an increasing number of modern finishes to pick from, including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;linseed oil or another drying oil;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;wax &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; be a low-VOC or no-VOC option, but the usual formula for commercial paste waxes does contain a noticeable amount of spirits;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;shellac, while technically a high-VOC finish as commonly used the fumes are considered basically harmless since they can consist entirely or almost entirely of ethanol;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;waterbased products, which have gotten better and better over the years;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;and most recently, the so-called &amp;quot;hard-wax oils&amp;quot;, many of which are classed as zero-VOC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; This might seem crazy with slow-drying finishes and the risk of dust, but oil-based stains are typically wiped off to leave a practically dry surface and varnish can be diluted and applied very thinly, with all excess wiped away, making dust almost irrelevant — you can literally sand wood in the same room that projects finished in wiping varnish are drying, without concern you'll ruin the finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Possibly not enough to be any sort of real hazard for the occasional user, but the smell could still be bothersome for anyone sensitive to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Shellac &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; also be made to be a zero-VOC finish by dissolving it in an alkaline water solution instead of an alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-01-06T10:37:57.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14359" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-06T20:08:57.713" Score="1" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using the Makita RT0701C along with the OneFinity CNC. I needed a 6mm shank router bit for some inlays I am doing so I ordered a 6mm collet from bits and bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it okay if I use the same nut that I used with the 1/4&amp;quot; collet or do I need a new router nut for the 6mm collet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12875" LastActivityDate="2023-01-06T20:08:57.713" Title="Can I use the same router nut for a 6mm collet on the Makita RT0701C?" Tags="|router|router-bit|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14361" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-07T21:04:55.820" Score="1" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/routing/keyholes-bits&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; about using a keyhole router cutter in order to hang shelves, cutting into the edge of the board rather than the face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kXxWi.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kXxWim.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that this should be fine for the solid wood being used in the article, but I'm wondering if this would be viable for plywood also?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my use case, I am thinking of using a keyhole slot to stop a bookcase from moving and coming away from the wall rather than it supporting any vertical weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would the plys be up to the stress of a lateral force? Again, its not like somebody will be climbing on this bookcase or pulling at it in any way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8149" LastActivityDate="2023-01-07T21:04:55.820" Title="Keyhole routing 'endgrain' of plywood" Tags="|plywood|router|router-bit|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11040" CreationDate="2023-01-08T16:19:56.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just dabble in the basement shop and am not a woodworker by any stretch, but on the other hand, I AM a retired industrial electrical/millwright contractor and have been a machine tool builder/rebuilder, and am also an engineer, and have design-built a lot of machines over the past 40 plus years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, trust me, a rotating cutting tool is a rotating cutting tool. It is really stupid and has no idea what is rotating it. If the shaft is rigid enough to prevent deflection (which should not be a problem with an actual wood shaper) and the rated RPM (which is typically less than half of the RPM at which catastrophic failure would occur) is not exceeded, and if you can get it on the shaft and running true, and the cutter is reasonably in balance, it will perform the very same way it runs on any other other rotating shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12878" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2023-01-12T03:13:37.920" LastActivityDate="2023-01-12T03:13:37.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14363" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14364" CreationDate="2023-01-08T20:59:55.853" Score="2" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first DIY project with wood and I'm already over my expected/set budget and timeframe so I want to ensure I don't make as many more mistakes before finishing the project, but whatever happens happens at this point I guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TLDR (context and info to follow):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1- Are my materials hard or soft wood? PINE OSB and Sandeply (never heard of this but the site says its hardwood)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2- What drill bit do I use in regards to joining hard and soft wood (assuming that OSB is soft).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3- #4 screw pilot hole into the side of wood drill bit size for both hard and soft?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Context:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm making myself a modular/3 piece deadlift platform following several step by step videos and have already cut and glued the pieces and rubber together and am now looking to fix them tightly with screws. 1 lifting platform and 2 separate wood/rubber platforms for 3 total pieces mostly for storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My base layer is one 3/4&amp;quot; thick Pine Engineered OSB. Pine is listed as a softwood, so is the OSB also softwood? My platform layer is 3/4&amp;quot; thick &amp;quot;Sandeply&amp;quot; which the site is listed as hardwood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll be using 1-1/4&amp;quot; #8 Philips head flat wood screws on the surface of the platform to drill down and fix them together. I'd like to avoid any splitting, so I want to make some pilot holes with a countersink so the screws are flush. What drill bit size would I use given that I will be going through 2 different types of wood. Online says to use 11/64&amp;quot; for hardwood and 7/64&amp;quot; for softwood for #8 screws so I'm a bit lost here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will also be adding toggle latch clamps to the sides of the pieced to keep the three separate joined when in use and its recommended to use #4 wood screws. One search said that #4s need 1/16 &amp;quot; but when I ran search at the hardware store, the 1/16 &amp;quot; was being listed for the #6 screw so I'm a bit turned around. The latching mechanism and bracket will have one screw hole in the platform and one in the base OSB layer if that makes sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to run to the store today so I can finish screwing everything together and move the platforms due to local car thefts so quick and timely advice would be appreciated. TIA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12880" LastActivityDate="2023-01-08T23:20:40.193" Title="Screw together possible soft and hard wood types with pilot holes and finding the right drillbits" Tags="|plywood|screws|drill-bits|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14363" CreationDate="2023-01-08T23:20:40.193" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shortest possible version: use anything you have handy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Longer version: ply and osb don’t split like wood, so drill bit sizing doesn’t have to be so precise. In a perfect world, you want the hole through the top piece to offer no resistance to the screw threads. (In other words, the screws should fall right through.) In reality, any old countersink/hole will work through the top layer as long as you push hard while screwing to keep the plies together. If they separate, back the screw out and do over. Don’t predrill the lower ply with anything too big or you’ll compromise the holding power of the screw. You could easily get away with no predrill. Same for the latch: 1/16 is good because it fulfills the requirement of giving your screw a straight guide into the hole. If you don’t have the tiny drill bit, just use something smaller than the root diameter of the screw (ie, the shaft, not thread, diameter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sandeply is hardwood if they say it is, but it’s probably not that different from pine, which is a softwood. Fwiw, balsa is technically a hardwood, so rules sometimes have to be discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2023-01-08T23:20:40.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14365" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14369" CreationDate="2023-01-09T00:23:40.653" Score="3" ViewCount="198" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning on using a 1.5&amp;quot; deep, 5-ply bamboo board (sample pictured) as a dining tabletop attached to a pair of steel legs (pictured, width 20&amp;quot;, height 29&amp;quot;, length 2&amp;quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The board dimensions will be around 80&amp;quot; by 36&amp;quot; and the span between the two leg pairs will be around 62&amp;quot;, leaving overhangs of 7&amp;quot; lengthways and 8&amp;quot; widthways. I'd like some advice on the necessary sub-structure (if any) to support the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AUrnC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AUrnC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bamboo plyboard&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WaGDs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WaGDs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;steel legs&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming normal C channels running widthways won't be necessary as it's a stable board not planks with grain. Options I've considered are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 steel L profiles either recessed into the tabletop or just screwed to the underside, running lengthways&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;similarly, a recessed C channel running lengthways&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;an apron made from additional plyboard pieces end-on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be interested in opinions on these options or anything else I've not thought of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If using L profiles or C channels, should these be attached to the legs or would it be better to attach the tabletop to the legs directly? Would recessing profiles have any benefit over just screwing them to the underside face? Any benefit to C over L?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If using an apron, ideally this would be no wider than the legs and not visible when the table is in use. I don't think this could connect into the legs as I wouldn't want to raise the height of the table so not sure if that reduces the utility of an apron?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the main issue I should be concerned about and seeking to address with the substructure: board bowing / pressures forcing leg pairs apart / other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All thoughts much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12881" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2023-01-16T18:53:50.087" LastActivityDate="2023-01-16T18:53:50.087" Title="Advice on dining table supports for bamboo 5-ply on steel legs?" Tags="|design|plywood|tabletop|table-making|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14366" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-09T05:27:49.540" Score="2" ViewCount="745" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm covering an acacia board with an oil-based polyurethane varnish. I've used the same brand of varnish, and even the varnish from the same can, on different types of wood before without a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I've sealed the board with an oil-based sealer before applying the varnish (same brand), waited 24h before applying the first coat of varnish&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;applied the first coat of varnish, seemed to be fine, waited 24h (recommended recoat time is 12h)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;lightly sanded the surface&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;applied the second coat. After ~5 min the surface started bubbling/crinkling like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eE29u.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eE29u.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;wet varnish&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;after drying, it now looks like this:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ifb6g.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ifb6g.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;dry varnish&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The problem happened only in a couple of places of the board, the rest of the desk top is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I've sanded the problem areas and applied another coat. The problem happened again in a slightly different spots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the reason for this problem and how do I avoid it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; Looking at the board I can see that the defects exclusively (but not always) occur in the areas of the dark wood, which is very visible on the photo below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5X7HX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5X7HX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;dark wood&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it seems that the problem may have something to do specifically with the properties of the acacia wood, although I'm not sure what could it be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12882" LastEditorUserId="12882" LastEditDate="2023-01-10T22:26:49.570" LastActivityDate="2023-01-10T22:26:49.570" Title="Why did my polyurethane varnish bubble/crinkle?" Tags="|varnish|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14366" CreationDate="2023-01-09T08:02:22.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've sealed the board with an oil-based sealer before applying the varnish (same brand), waited 24h before applying the first coat of varnish&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking this may partly stem from the use of the sealer. 'Sealers' can be any of a number of very different things, some of which you wouldn't want to use under varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But notice the directionality of the streaks of wrinkling appear to follow grain features. This suggests that something related to the acacia is contributing to the effect, or may be the actual cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of the underlying cause my guess about what's happened is that the second coat of varnish softened the first, semi-dry, coat enough that it swelled and released from the wood surface in places where it adhered less well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think the varnish itself is faulty, given that it is apparently drying well enough for you to be able to sand it down (presumably without it gumming up your paper).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to continue to add poly to increase coat thickness, or to even up the surface finish I would suggest thinning it slightly (adding 1/4 to 1/3 solvent) and adopting part of the procedure for wiping varnish — wiping off most or all of the excess varnish after application. Note that the varnish doesn't have to be wiped on — wiping varnish never needs to be &lt;em&gt;applied&lt;/em&gt; by wiping, although you can if you like. You can pour, spray, brush or roller it on if preferred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;applied the first coat of varnish, seemed to be fine, waited 24h (recommended recoat time is 12h)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always remember that recoat times are only a suggestion, often based on very idealised conditions. Where I live there might be 10 days in a year when local conditions match those the instructions are based on!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most of us, very occasionally you can recoat faster than indicated. But it's far more common for users to have to wait longer than the instructions suggest, sometimes &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; longer — double or triple the time indicated (and in winter even longer than this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-01-09T08:02:22.790" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14368" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-09T21:31:38.170" Score="1" ViewCount="53" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm designing my first indoor bit of furniture and I'm planning to hide some Ikea bookshelves behind some MDF doors to make some built in cupboards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was going to use the following 18x44mm timber for the framing but I'm hearing concerns about it &amp;quot;not being thick enough&amp;quot;, and my separate (and much more reasonable) own concerns about it splitting when I screw the front plate MDF into it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd use thicker wood but the space between the bookcases and the walls on each side is 40mm so I'm pretty limited&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice would be much appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HYbQK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HYbQK.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12884" LastActivityDate="2023-01-09T21:31:38.170" Title="Would a frame of 44mm x 18mm wood be strong enough to support MDF doors?" Tags="|wood-selection|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2023-01-21T17:09:08.820" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14365" CreationDate="2023-01-10T14:28:11.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure how much use this is going to be to you since you've clearly given this a lot of thought already, but I didn't want the Question to go unanswered as there could be many future searchers seeking similar advice given that bamboo panel materials are likely to become more popular in the coming years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like some advice on the necessary sub-structure (if any) to support the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although the span here is very long the panel could easily be stiff enough to not need support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; based on the cross section provided your panel is likely to be substantially stiffer in one direction than another, and hopefully the central strips are aligned with the long axis. However it is possible that oriented the other way this material will be stiff enough to also require no additional support — it has quite substantial cross-laminations, plus due to the overall thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of the orientation of the laminations the material IS essentially a complete unknown and perhaps the only way to get a read on its performance is to do a rudimentary test on it as-is. So rest it on the legs in the planned position, load the centre of the span&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; and see if you get any deflection. If you get essentially none, I think you're good to go without any form of reinforcement....... but you might want to add some anyway, for long-term peace of mind&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be interested in opinions on these options or anything else I've not thought of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any of your three proposed stiffening options are viable methods to increase stiffness, and could eliminate any tendency to sag depending on the obvious variables such as metal gauge or depth of the wood 'apron' pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any benefit to C over L?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C will be stiffer as a rule (for a given gauge). Obviously the two profiles aren't equal in terms of sweat equity if the intention is to mount fully flush — it's perhaps double the work to embed C channel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would recessing profiles have any benefit over just screwing them to the underside face?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming the metalwork is screwed firmly to the underside of the tabletop the main gain is simply the added stiffness of the profile itself, but I believe there is &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; benefit to fully recessing them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Start with a heavy, but reasonable, weight and if you get very little deflection or none at all don't be afraid to increase it &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; and see how much sag you get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Many people will have some real-world experience of a phenomenon that bears on this — shelves that initially sagged only a little under their respective loads (you barely noticed), but as the years progressed the sag increased to the point it was clearly visible from across the room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-01-10T14:28:11.257" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11535" CreationDate="2023-01-11T01:59:09.383" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing that may or may not be an issue with your paint chalking up on you is how dry the wood is. If you paint while the wood is dry it'll soak up all the oil out of your paint and leave chalky pigment sitting on the surface. What I've been told is best practice is to use plain purified raw linseed oil (not boiled) with no pigment as a 'primer'. It absorbed deep into the wood and fills the wood with oil. Let that soak in and dry, then you paint over that, and the wood won't soak up all your oil. It'll soak in some and the rest polymerize on the surface as a normal paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12889" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2023-01-12T00:07:47.607" LastActivityDate="2023-01-12T00:07:47.607" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14371" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-14T17:37:25.320" Score="0" ViewCount="253" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was building a new bench and I was hoping that I would be able avoid any warping in the wood. Unfortunately, after everything was completed I have an overall twist in the bench. (Images below)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to correct this without taking the bench apart?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d3T1E.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d3T1E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p6LZR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p6LZR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12404" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-01-16T15:25:41.217" LastActivityDate="2023-02-16T15:05:50.713" Title="Possible to remove twist from the framework of this bench?" Tags="|workbench|twist|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14371" CreationDate="2023-01-14T22:21:56.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, I think you must disassemble it. It looks screwed together, so it shouldn't take too long.  Did you assemble it in the standing position?  You probably introduced the twist while assembling it.  The first thing I would do is find where the twist originates.  Try partially disassembling it by removing the top from the base components, check that the top is flat, and then proceed further if needed.  I would reassemble it with the top upside down, lying flat on the floor and place the base above checking each part is square itself and mounted correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2023-01-14T22:21:56.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14373" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-15T18:14:26.900" Score="1" ViewCount="245" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to mail this coat rack (about 6 ft high) but would like to split it into 2 pieces by cutting thru the staff.  That would make it easier to mail, but then I need a way for the recipient to put it back together.&#xA;I was thinking about putting neo magnets on both sides of the cut, but I don't think that would be strong enough.  Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xt8Nf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xt8Nf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12892" LastEditorUserId="3891" LastEditDate="2023-03-02T07:34:41.833" LastActivityDate="2023-03-02T07:34:41.833" Title="Ideas to split coat rack in two for mailing?" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14373" CreationDate="2023-01-15T18:47:36.120" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could cut it where you want to and use a dowel screw to attach the pieces afterwards. You'd drill appropriately-sized holed in each section and tighten them onto each end of the screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YVGth.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YVGth.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would allow the two pieces to be disassembled/reassembled as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastActivityDate="2023-01-15T18:47:36.120" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14373" CreationDate="2023-01-16T17:57:35.377" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you considered mailing it with a carrier that allows large items?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There will be people in your country selling things like skis, tile trim strips, bicycles etc - and they'll probably be happy enough to tell you who they ship with if you ask nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a cost premium for mailing items that can't go through an automated sorting system, but they'll still get there - and why cut up the coat rack to save $20 on mailing costs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12897" LastActivityDate="2023-01-16T17:57:35.377" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14371" CreationDate="2023-01-16T23:49:28.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's held together with screws, you might be able to loosen the screws to the point that the bench is &amp;quot;moveable&amp;quot; to some degree, and encourage it to &amp;quot;settle into square&amp;quot; provided the wood is reasonably free of warps and twists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, it looks to me, as well as I can see from the pictures, that one or more of your long boards has a warp or twist in it. If that's the case you may have to remove or modify, &lt;em&gt;shim, shave, or otherwise persuade&lt;/em&gt; that board a bit to get the rest of the bench squared up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastActivityDate="2023-01-16T23:49:28.233" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14371" CreationDate="2023-01-17T14:59:58.930" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To remove the twist without any disassembly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut a long wedge piece for the right hand side.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This piece will go from paper thin at the farthest point from the camera to whatever height is necessary to bring it level with the front left corner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut long wedge pieces for each of the &amp;quot;joists&amp;quot; running left-to-right in the picture.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;These pieces will go from paper thin wherever that individual joist leaves the bottom of the level to whatever thickness is necessary to bring it to the height of the new level of the right hand side.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust the legs to all rest on the ground&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shorten the three legs (right hand side, closest to camera; both farthest from camera, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lengthen the leg on left nearest camera&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sister a new edge beam on the right hand side, making it level with the left hand side.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sister new joists across making the tops level with both the left and right hand sides.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust the legs as above.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;NOTE&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is somewhat tongue-in-cheek, however it's possible. The &amp;quot;Alternative&amp;quot; method is actually what I'm going to be doing in my new addition to make a flat wall out of the original structure of my 130 year old house where the studs aren't quite as vertical as one may have hoped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2023-01-17T14:59:58.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14379" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-18T01:22:35.187" Score="3" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shown here are plans for my office/bedroom build (bed is a Japanese futon and pillows that fold and fit into the compartment of the 3 benches). As you can imagine, if I need to sleep, I can set the futon on the floor or, put these benches inline, and set them on cushions (latches on the bottom to prevent them from coming apart). These benches will be set on 3&amp;quot; casters (not shown).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem I'm trying to solve is how to design in a sturdy deployable backrest. What's shown is a crude T-bolt and knobs implementation but I don't think it'll hold up when a person is leaning against it. It might work if I use two knobs per slot but the short height of the backrest won't leave room for a second knob.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The benchseats carcass and backrest will be made from 3/4&amp;quot; hardwood plywood (Home Depot/Lowes). Where stiffness is needed, I prefer to double-up on the plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Willing to use metal (1/4&amp;quot;-thick will do I think) in the design if it solves the problem. I'm thinking a metal L-bracket that latches onto the underside and sides of the bench (that's how my computer chair solved the problem).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ma7yE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ma7yE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sketchup Model of Room&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vLgeZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vLgeZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Seat Height (Raised 3&amp;quot; off ground)&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 1&lt;/strong&gt; Found an OEM &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.testriteoem.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Testrite&lt;/a&gt; that makes telescopic tubing/square tubing with spring button locks (and &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/yAMV4lQuG3M?t=173&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YT: Telescopic tubing lock (latch)&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.testriteoem.com/products/square-telescoping-tubing-locks/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Product demo&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking to widen the slot to fit one of these tubes. The base of the tube, fixed to the base of the seat, would be 12&amp;quot; tall. The inner telescopic arm would be attached to the lifted backrest. Assuming the base tube and the telescopic arm overlap 4&amp;quot;, the backrest should come up 8&amp;quot;. If I attach the base tube inside of the seat, I can hide the hardware and have it extend lower to the ground by 2&amp;quot;. The cushion piece can fit over the 3/4&amp;quot; plywood (bridle joint) and increase the height by another 4&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 2&lt;/strong&gt; Telescopic tube could work but is more complex to integrate into the design. I think a ratcheting bracket might work better. Something like &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B09QJ3M9ZP&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amz: 180 Degree 5 Gear Folding Chair Lift Bracket Sofa Hinge&lt;/a&gt;. Mount that upside-down so that when the bracket is fully opened (the bracket arms are 180 deg to each other), the backrest is &amp;quot;deployed&amp;quot;. When it's closed (bracket arms are pointing in the same direction, downwards towards the floor), the backrest is &amp;quot;stowed&amp;quot;. &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B08LG8QZHN&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amz: This looks pretty promising&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 3&lt;/strong&gt; Another idea (I'm on a roll today): Slotted backrest! I think I saw this on youtube somewhere ... &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/DKCR_sz-LRc?t=183&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Modern Builds&lt;/a&gt;/Plywood Sofa?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CADzo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CADzo.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8651" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-01-20T06:55:40.183" LastActivityDate="2023-01-20T06:55:40.183" Title="Design input needed for sturdy deployable/collapsible head/backrest for a sitting bench" Tags="|furniture|design|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14153" CreationDate="2023-01-18T16:18:08.067" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A very good suggestion was made in another answer (now deleted because it was an &amp;quot;I'm having this problem too&amp;quot; type answer), so I'll repeat it here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try adding a second nut to the spindle to use as a jam nut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will require enough spindle length and taking the existing spindle nut to your favorite hardware store, identifying the diameter and thread pitch, then finding a thin nut to use. It will also likely require a second wrench to tighten the second nut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, this should not have to be done, as there is obviously a flaw in the design of the saw, but in order to be able to use the saw &lt;em&gt;safely&lt;/em&gt; (in light of reports of people having the blade come completely off!), this seems like a reasonable work around until DeWalt offers a full fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-01-18T19:59:19.590" LastActivityDate="2023-01-18T19:59:19.590" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14382" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14383" CreationDate="2023-01-20T15:30:38.630" Score="2" ViewCount="1362" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a desk which looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1PfqVm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1PfqVm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have decided to take some steps to fix it. This includes creating a way to manage the dozens of wires that form part of the work from home setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am going to buy a wooden board (MDF or chipwood) which is a bit smaller than the long panel on the back of the desk. I shall put screws into it to mount extension leads and also stick the ethernet switch, wifi extender, usb hubs, laptop charger, monitor psu and many other things to this sheet of wood. At the end, this wooden sheet shall have to be attached to the back panel of this desk on the side facing the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to the question. How do I stick the new sheet of wood to the back panel of this desk? Use only wood glue? Use bolt and nut? Use simple wood screws or something else? The back panel is obviously not very thick. If I use screws, it might drill through the new wooden sheet and back out of the back panel. I don't know if this is bad. As for nut and bolts, don't know if the chipwood will get damaged by them. As for glue, I don't want to make this a permanent bond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12906" LastActivityDate="2023-01-21T05:41:20.290" Title="How to join two parallel sheets of wood together" Tags="|joinery|glue|screws|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14382" CreationDate="2023-01-20T16:47:45.787" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I presume that you're attaching your new panel to the vertical &amp;quot;modesty panel&amp;quot; that's &lt;em&gt;under&lt;/em&gt; the desk surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could use glue, but any sort of woodworker's glue wouldn't hold very well on the smooth melamine (or metal) surface of the modesty panel. Construction adhesive (if it's indicated for use on metal) would probably work OK should you choose to go that route. Ideally, you'd want to use a contact cement to adhere to the melamine coating that's already on the desk. Using contact cement and making it fit properly and creating a strong bond would be very difficult (even if you take the modesty panel off and work on it on a bench), so it's a good thing you don't want to go down this path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With glue out, you have a couple of options left:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill a clearance pilot hole through the modesty panel. This will be larger than the diameter of the screw threads.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill a pilot hole into your new panel. This will be about the size of the shaft between the threads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using screws of a length that won't penetrate the surface, screw through the modesty panel into the new panel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You'd want to use a screw with a flat bottomed head (so it doesn't try to countersink itself), and I'd suggest a washer under the screw head, especially if the modesty panel is a thin material.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Through bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill clearance holes through both the modesty panel and the new panel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the bolt through a washer, through both holes, through another washer on the back side, and thread on a nut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tighten.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'd suggest that you'll want the bolt heads on the new panel side. This will give you a smooth surface where your knees are and leave the end of the bolt sticking out toward the wall. This will prevent you from ever jamming your kneed into an exposed bolt or catching your pants on it, potentially tearing your pants.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're certain that you want to use MDF/chipboard/particle board, then through bolts are actually a better option. Generally, screws don't hold well in these types of materials, even if you do get the right kind of screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you choose, instead to use plywood, you can use any sort of wood screw to hold this together, and it will probably be a much easier process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No matter which attachment method you choose to use, I'd suggest that your work and work conditions will be better if you remove the modesty panel from the desk and put it on a horizontal surface to work on it. Note that the horizontal surface could be the desk itself!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You won't be cramped working under the desk.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You won't be fighting gravity trying to hold the new panel up on the modesty panel while doing all the drilling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You'll have plenty of light and visibility.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can simply have a friend squeeze the two pieces together as a &amp;quot;clamp&amp;quot; if you don't have any other sort of clamping option.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You'll be able to comfortably lay out all your screws, hooks, hangars and other attachments while it's horizontal, and you'll be able to either put all those attachments in place or, at least, drill pilot holes for them all so your work time under the desk is minimized.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2023-01-20T17:09:39.733" LastActivityDate="2023-01-20T17:09:39.733" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6221" CreationDate="2023-01-20T18:48:10.390" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used Pure Tung Oil on both Hickory and Beechwood. My research showed that a thinner could be used on the first coat only, in order to get better penetration. I made the same mistake on my 3rd coat (applying too much because I thought the Beechwood would soak it all up) and the Beechwood continued to leach for about 24 hours. I kept wiping it down with a rough cloth and it seemed ok to cont.. It is recommended to do 3 coats (waiting at least 24 hours between each), then wait a month (or more) before applying a final coating. This should last 2-3 years on an axe handle. Using thinner on every coating was not recommended. A final finish with SPAR Urethane can be done since the SPAR will cut through the Tung oil on the surface. Bring them inside to cure in the cold months, the heat and lower humidity from your heater will cure it much faster than leaving it in the garage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12908" LastActivityDate="2023-01-20T18:48:10.390" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14385" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-20T23:13:06.710" Score="3" ViewCount="108" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently inherited an old 4” PowrKraft jointer, from the early 50s. I measured the old blades with digital calipers and found that they are 4” x 0.71” x 0.11”.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can’t find a reliable source on what size the blades should be, let alone a supplier. Is it generally safe to use shorter blades?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any good resources for learning more about old jointers or are there any modern suppliers that might have appropriate blades?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found replacement blades that measure 4” x 0.62” x 0.12”. Do you think these are a near enough fit? It’s a Powrkraft TRT 2514.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I believe this might be the original manual, and it does not specify a blade size. &lt;a href=&quot;http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/657/18077.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/657/18077.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12914" LastEditorUserId="12914" LastEditDate="2023-01-21T00:07:34.210" LastActivityDate="2023-01-21T00:54:15.173" Title="How flexible is the tolerance on jointer blade sizes?" Tags="|jointer|blade|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14385" CreationDate="2023-01-21T00:32:42.303" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Powr-Kraft tools were distributed by Montgomery Ward in the 1930s through the 80s and manufactured by various companies. If you have the serial numbers, etc. you might be able to deduce who made the jointer based on this resource and thereby acquire similar replacements: &lt;a href=&quot;http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=657%5D%5B1%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=657][1]&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the part number for the blades is 842521. You might get further looking for that specifically. I can't find a source for parts, and you're right, they're not too informative about the knife specifications...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also woodworking forums that might have some members who are into &amp;quot;old time&amp;quot; tool restorations and could provide more specific information or at least point you in the right direction. You might find someone who has worked with one of those models (or similar) at &lt;a href=&quot;https://lumberjocks.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://lumberjocks.com&lt;/a&gt; and/or &lt;a href=&quot;https://sawmillcreek.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://sawmillcreek.com&lt;/a&gt; and/or others...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, while not really meaning to make a &amp;quot;shopping recommendation&amp;quot;, the people at &lt;a href=&quot;https://mywoodcutters.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://mywoodcutters.com&lt;/a&gt; are pretty good at figuring this kind of stuff out. It might be worth shooting them an email.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2023-01-21T00:54:15.173" LastActivityDate="2023-01-21T00:54:15.173" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14387" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-21T00:50:07.237" Score="1" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having problems with a staining project and after looking through some other examples on this site found what I thought was some good info in the answer ( &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/10121/how-to-correct-water-based-stain-dried-streaky?rq=1&quot;&gt;How to correct water based stain dried streaky&lt;/a&gt; ) and plan on that being the basis for starting the corrections but wanted find out a little more detail about that process/&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing it says to apply the stain to the entire surface all in one go all at once.  Not sure how this is possible without it drying out and causing a big mess so more elaboration would be great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was planning on prewetting the table again, but would it be better to put on a diluted stain instead?  If so what ratio?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How important is it to remove ALL the stain before starting over?  I don't think I have the time to remove all the stain and am okay with some variation in color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE - Tried staining the whole table all in one go with a rag as suggested in that answer above and have a terrible stuck mess... good thing I was testing it on the underside of the table this time...  180 grit sand, prewetted surface, 5 minutes to rub the stain on and all dried out...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tHw6y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tHw6y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sanded top down again, ready to stain&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE2 - Flipped table over, sanded down most of the stain @ 180 and ready to try applying stain again... crossing fingers for better results!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Zx43.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Zx43.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;1st Coat 1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OXkru.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OXkru.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;1st Coat 2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE3 - Stained in 3&amp;quot; sections.  Not sure why the middle turned out darker than the edges...  Thinking of applying a 2nd coat just to the edges.  What does everyone think of how it looks so far?  OK?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OenQf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OenQf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2nd Coat 1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pJZXc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pJZXc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2nd Coat 2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE4 - 2nd coat stain on the lighter parts on the edge.  Think its as good as I'm going to get it with what I using anyway.  Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12913" LastEditorUserId="12913" LastEditDate="2023-01-23T04:08:32.740" LastActivityDate="2023-01-23T04:08:32.740" Title="Looking for additional tips for applying waterbased stain on dining table prior to epoxy coating" Tags="|staining|sanding|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14382" CreationDate="2023-01-21T05:41:20.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I stick the new sheet of wood to the back panel of this desk? Use only wood glue?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;As for glue, I don't want to make this a permanent bond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you want this to be removable you don't want to use any type of adhesive, even double-sided tape (e.g. carpet tape) would not be ideal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I use screws, it might drill through the new wooden sheet and back out of the back panel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well it's up to you to make sure you don't drill through if you don't want to. At the most basic the age-old trick of wrapping tape around a drill bit as a depth guide will help ensure consistent depths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, ideally you want to drill &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rUrFR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;two sizes of hole&lt;/a&gt;: clearance holes for the first piece of wood (generally the thinner of the two) and pilot holes for the second piece, the one that the screw will grip with its thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But fundamentally it's the screws you choose that will determine a good outcome here — they obviously have to be shorter than the combined thickness of the two sheets of material you're joining, or the point will bulge the opposite face of the chipboard, or worse, poke right through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if this is bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Structurally this isn't a problem, a bulge is mainly a cosmetic issue but if the point projects you can injure yourself on it quite easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for nut and bolts, don't know if the chipwood will get damaged by them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is one of the things that washers are for, they spread the load under bolt heads and/or nuts to lessen the chance of damage to the underlying surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with this you can quite easily cause damage if you overtighten (especially on chipboard/particleboard, which generally can be crushed easily), so bear this in mind. Honestly, &lt;strong&gt;just finger-tight should be OK for what you're doing here&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nuts and bolts (and washers of course) are the way to go here IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Nuts and bolts will allow assembly and disassembly multiple times as needed, even years from now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Their installation simplifies the drilling since you will be drilling holes right through both pieces, and you only need one size of drill bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I'd use four bolts, one in each corner. They don't have to be thick (even as small as &lt;strong&gt;M4 should be fine&lt;/strong&gt;). And smaller-gauge bolts can be easier to buy in the short length you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When buying your bolts be sure to account for the thickness of two washers and the nut! If needed, you can buy bolts that are too long and saw them to length with a junior hacksaw, it only takes ~30 seconds per bolt if you can clamp it in a vice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rather than trying to lay out accurately twice, drill your holes through the new board, then use those holes to mark the locations of the corresponding holes in the back panel of the desk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The holes don't have to be an accurate fit for the bolts. In fact loose is good since it allows for minor variations in the holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On the chipboard it'll help to create a small starter hole with an awl or other pointed tool (use a nail if that's all you have).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On the back panel of the desk it would be best to drill from front to back because the exit hole of a drill bit can be ugly and splintered. If you need clean entry and exit holes a sacrificial piece of wood needs to be firmly clamped on the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-01-21T05:41:20.290" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14389" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14391" CreationDate="2023-01-22T00:02:44.440" Score="1" ViewCount="191" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have ordered a jig-saw. I need to cut the following things to size:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut shelves to size, they are too long to mount.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut panel of MDF to smaller rectangular size.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that jig-saw has a small saw that moves vertically and cuts the wood. However, the problem is, where do I place the wood? I can't place it on ground. I can't place it parallel to wall. I do not have a special bench for wood cutting like all the wood working folks on youtube have. I do have a small computer desk sandwitched between a wall and a chimney breast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This now leaves these issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Where to put large shelves and wooden panels to cut them, that can't fit on any desk or surface in my own home.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to make sure that I don't damage the surface on which I am keeping the wood when cutting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure that I cleanly cut in straight line using jig-saw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12906" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2023-01-25T15:45:53.300" LastActivityDate="2023-01-25T21:09:49.867" Title="Cutting sheets of wood safely" Tags="|cutting|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14389" CreationDate="2023-01-22T01:42:46.740" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One should determine how deeply beyond the undersurface of the wood the blade of the saw will extend. One should place supports of any kind to keep the wood at least that distance above the surface on which the assembly is placed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The floor is a reliable, non-moving surface. Books, blocks, anesthetized tortoises, anything solid enough to support the weight of the board being cut can be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For minimal possibility of destruction, one should support the board in four places: one at each end of the entire length of the board and one on each side of the cut, leaving enough room to avoid cutting through the tortoise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To provide for a straight cut, secure a board at ninety degrees to the primary target, displaced from the cut line by the same distance as the blade edge to the saw's shoe. Ensure that the guide board is thin enough to pass under any components of the saw, or place it on the side of the shoe opposite to the conflicting components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many videos exist, using the search terms &amp;quot;cut straight with jigsaw,&amp;quot; although the very first one that appeared in my search used a hand-guided method!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFCGYVH1frc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFCGYVH1frc&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above video uses a bench top (with a somewhat unsecured board) and a carpenter's square as the shoe guide, but is a good representation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2023-01-22T01:42:46.740" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14389" CreationDate="2023-01-22T09:11:53.303" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The basics of jigsaws and their blades:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Jigsaws cut as you push them. Normally you will be starting the cut close to you, and pushing it away from you as the blade makes the cut; be aware if you're making a cut that is longer than your reach that you may have to stop and change position mid-cut, or adopt a different posture and walk the saw along the cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the saw is at full speed before you begin cutting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Most blades intended for cutting wood cut on the upstroke (the teeth point upwards), and this can lead to splintering on the upper surface. The simplest way to reduce this is probably to apply masking tape along the cut line, burnish it down well and saw right through it; when you're done, peel off the tape carefully to avoid lifting flakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Coarse blades cut faster, but leave a ragged surface. Finer blades with more teeth cut more slowly but leave a much better surface and there is less splintering. 10tpi blades may be the sweet spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Regardless of the number of teeth &lt;strong&gt;let the saw do the work&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/em&gt; In other words, cut slowly. Forcing cuts using a jigsaw is probably the number one source of frustration for inexperienced or impatient users. Pushing the saw into the cut with force leads to rougher sawn surfaces, worse splintering and additionally the blade is likely to flex in use leading to the cuts not being square to the face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Jigsaws can be quite loud, it would be best to plug your ears or wear earmuffs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For lots more guidance see these:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YuEvQlvYtzA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jigsaw BASICS for Beginners.&lt;/a&gt; from DIYForKnuckleheads.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l8NjtcZrgOc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How I made my jig saw cut a LOT better&lt;/a&gt; from Stumpy Nubs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shortening the shelves&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The simplest way for someone with no workbench to cut boards to length is just to rest each one across the seats of two matching chairs&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, kneel on the wood and saw off the projecting part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're a right-hander the projecting end should be to your right. If you're a leftie it should be the other way around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Practice makes perfect. &lt;em&gt;If you feel it is necessary you can make multiple practice cuts on the material you know will be cut off before sawing your shelves to finished length.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cutting the MDF to size&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;It's perhaps more difficult to arrange to cut the MDF, but it is generally possible in an apartment setting using the furniture available and some ingenuity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way is probably to cut with the MDF on a table or desk, obviously with the portion to be cut well off the edge of the supporting surface so there's no chance your cut can wander into the tabletop. You can do this quite conveniently on a low coffee table, but you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; successfully make your cuts on a table of any height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your table isn't low enough to kneel on, clamping the MDF in place would be ideal (and the clamps would have many future DIY uses). If you don't want to invest in a couple of clamps, heavily weight the part of the sheet that rests on the table, for example with numerous heavy books, so it can't easily move&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because your rectangle of MDF will be out of sight once mounted at the back of your desk your cuts don't have to be perfect by any means. So instead of trying to saw along a straightedge to guide the jigsaw I suggest you just guide it freehand to the best of your ability, following a pencil or ballpoint pen line, and don't sweat it if your cuts are irregular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; You can do it on a single chair, but you have to be more careful as there's a greater tendency for the wood to shift as you're cutting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; If you have any non-slip drawer lining material definitely put some under the MDF as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-01-25T21:09:49.867" LastActivityDate="2023-01-25T21:09:49.867" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14392" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14396" CreationDate="2023-01-23T07:26:47.190" Score="0" ViewCount="274" Body="&lt;p&gt;If so, what is the best method for sealing/treating?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And by beetle or wood-borer, I mean any such creature that could destroy the timber frame of a house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought some plywood from a hardware store. The sheets were imported from Brazil(to South Africa) and now I have them cut into pieces, ready for use in the loft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12921" LastActivityDate="2023-01-24T16:57:24.770" Title="Is it possible to treat plywood to prevent beetle or wood borer infestation?" Tags="|plywood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14389" CreationDate="2023-01-24T07:32:05.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the problem is, where do I place the wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Invest in a pair of sawhorses. You can buy folding sawhorses made of metal or plastic at any home center, starting around $40 for a pair, or you can build a pair that stack instead of folding for about $20. A small folding workbench like a Black &amp;amp; Decker Workmate can be a good alternative, but will cost more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where to put large shelves and wooden panels to cut them, that can't fit on any desk or surface in my own home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A nice thing about sawhorses is that you can set the any distance apart, so they easily adjust to fit workpieces of different sizes. Also, you can set a couple pieces of lumber across the top to support your workpiece along its entire length. Many commercial sawhorses will include notches meant for 2x4's for just this reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to make sure that I don't damage the surface on which I am keeping the wood when cutting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another nice thing about sawhorses is that they're not the dining room table -- if you start to cut into them by accident, it's not a big deal. Some people even design their sawhorses so that the top bar can be replaced, and they just don't worry at all about cutting into it with a circular saw. That said, it's not hard to have some basic awareness of where the work supports are and avoid them by moving the workpiece as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure that I cleanly cut in straight line using jig-saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a straight edge to guide the saw will help you cut along a straight line. Just measure the distance between the side of the saw's foot and the blade, and clamp a piece of straight lumber at that offset from your cut line. Select an appropriate blade for the material you're cutting to get a relatively clean cut, but know that a jigsaw won't give you a perfectly clean cut -- you'll probably want to do some sanding with a flat sanding block afterward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2023-01-24T07:32:05.533" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14389" CreationDate="2023-01-24T16:51:36.297" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other answers provide good solutions for supporting your work.  However I want to directly answer this part:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure that I cleanly cut in straight line using jig-saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first reaction is that for cutting a straight line, a jig-saw is the wrong tool; use a circular saw instead.  (A circular saw will make supporting the work easier too, because you can adjust the depth of cut so the blade only projects a short way under the workpiece.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get a cheap circular saw from Screwfix for £30 and it will probably be good enough for this job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a circular saw, clamping a straight edge to the workpiece and pushing the saw along this will produce a very straight cut.  With a jigsaw it won't; once the blade has veered sideways for some reason, it is almost impossible to get back on the line unless you can twist the jigsaw and a straightedge will stop you doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a jigsaw you are better clearly marking the line and following it - you can then twist the saw to get back to the line whenever you need to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1646" LastActivityDate="2023-01-24T16:51:36.297" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14392" CreationDate="2023-01-24T16:57:24.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;ANY&lt;/em&gt; wood you buy has the &lt;em&gt;potential&lt;/em&gt; to be host to one or more destructive critters and/or their eggs. &lt;code&gt;&amp;lt;/fueling the fear fire&amp;gt;&lt;/code&gt;. &lt;em&gt;However&lt;/em&gt;, it's generally pretty rare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you think about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.madehow.com/Volume-4/Plywood.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;how plywood is produced&lt;/a&gt;&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt;, it's &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; unlikely that anything is going to live through the process. That means the only real way for anything to infest the plywood is to make the hop from &amp;quot;real&amp;quot; wood. This means that the plywood would end up being stacked near some solid lumber somewhere and the critters would need to decide to leave the &amp;quot;pure&amp;quot; luxury of solid lumber for the adhesive laden plywood. I'm no expert, but I'd guess that they're going to prefer solid lumber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this may not answer the question of how &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; can treat the plywood to prevent infestation, I believe that infestation is basically prevented during manufacturing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt;No affiliation with the site, but it seems like a reasonably detailed explanation.&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2023-01-24T16:57:24.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14389" CreationDate="2023-01-25T09:11:38.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Frame challenge — hand saw&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since we know the cuts you need to do here, a power saw is actually not explicitly needed, both to make the cuts in the first place but also to get good straight cuts, and quickly enough to be reasonably classed as acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd guess it's fewer, but if you have as many as six shelves to shorten you're still only doing eight cuts here, with half a dozen of them being quite short crosscuts. That does not exactly scream &amp;quot;power saw&amp;quot;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With some guidance from the Internet and only a little practice you should be able to complete all your cuts by hand to an acceptable standard in &lt;strong&gt;under 10 minutes&lt;/strong&gt; (not factoring in setup time which can be nearly the same either way; note that cleanup time would &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; be equal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll list the advantages and disadvantages as I see them &lt;em&gt;relating specifically to what you're doing now&lt;/em&gt;. [A pro/con list like this would be much longer if taking into account the full potential uses of each tool, such as a jigsaw's ability to cut metal, or a hand saw's ability to saw through sizeable logs.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Advantages&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quieter. Much, much quieter. Jigsaws can run at upwards of &lt;em&gt;100dB&lt;/em&gt;, which is loud enough to strongly point to the need for hearing protection. There's also an argument to be made in an apartment setting of the nuisance value to neighbours, but here you're doing so few cuts that shouldn't be an issue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cheaper. Depending on the jigsaw possibly substantially cheaper — suitable handsaws vary from around a tenner to maybe 20 quid, while the average price of jigsaws is around £60-70 (prices for name-brand saws vary from roughly £35 to over £220, &lt;em&gt;without even including premium brands&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Much less fine dust. To be fair, jigsaws aren't bad offenders for creating airborne dust (compare to a circular saw!!) but still, sawing by hand will generate virtually none, which is a factor when working indoors in a domestic setting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slower. You ask explicitly about safety and any process that's slower is inherently safer; it's far harder to make a very bad mistake slowly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disadvantages&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slower. Yes I know this is in the other list as well but while being an advantage for safety it is seen as a disadvantage by many people because it takes much longer to complete cuts. I mention this only for completeness however, because for your current needs I think the speed difference is too small to really be a convincing argument in favour of a power saw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Possibly takes more practice to get good cuts? This is debatable since all tools have a learning curve, and in the context of what you need to do only the shelf cuts actually need to be neat and tidy — once in place the MDF panel will be permanently hidden from view so how clean/straight its edges are doesn't matter except in an OCD way :-)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-01-25T09:11:38.593" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14398" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-25T18:18:10.333" Score="0" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a new SCM table saw with a 30mm arbor. I need to get a machinist to enlarge a 5/8 arbor hole on my good blades for use on this saw. Do they make it precisely 30mm or is there normally some tolerance there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12928" LastActivityDate="2023-01-25T18:18:10.333" Title="Saw Blade Arbor Hole Enlargement" Tags="|table-saw|saw-blade|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14399" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-26T00:42:27.870" Score="0" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I guess I got a little aggressive with the heat gun and some epoxy burned in a small section of the table. This was supposed to be the seal coat, but seemed pretty thick for that (used the calculator on mfgr website for amount of epoxy to use for seal coat).  Anyway, seemed like one area had more bubbles and so I kinda sat there for a while and then it REALLY started bubbling and then smoking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts on fixing?  Is it possible to sand down the one area and then try and blend it with the existing epoxy?  If so, I'd also be worried about sanding the stain that I did prior to the pour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7KzWD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7KzWD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close up of burnt epoxy&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d3mQK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d3mQK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Further back from burnt epoxy&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12913" LastActivityDate="2023-01-26T00:42:27.870" Title="Fixing burnt epoxy? Redo the whole table or can do a patch?" Tags="|epoxy|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14400" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-27T18:56:10.533" Score="0" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to design a 4-way X-shaped foldable joint. Something that is 4-legged and connects at the middle, but can also be folded up into a straight object. Is this possible? What would be the name of such a joint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found this image online that seems to be close to the type of joint that I'm looking for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A5il0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A5il0.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also created this simple X structure with some pencils so that you could get a better idea of what I'm referring to (although the joint I'm looking for wouldn't be connected with rubber bands, but instead pins maybe?):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TEBR0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TEBR0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically I want to make this: but with 4 legs instead of 3:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cLsaL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cLsaL.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm hoping to find some sort of design that I can copy and create a 3D rendering of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12935" LastActivityDate="2023-01-27T18:56:10.533" Title="4-way foldable X joint" Tags="|joinery|joints|box-joint|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14401" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-27T21:31:50.743" Score="3" ViewCount="483" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went to Ace hardware store to buy Varathane water base polyurethane. Store clerk told me that the polyurethane has to be thoroughly mixed before applying put them in the paint mix shaker. I came home and read the label and it says not to shake the can because it forms bubbles. How long do I have to wait until the bubbles goes away? Or do I have to return the product and get another one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12936" LastActivityDate="2023-01-28T17:13:04.843" Title="I bought water base polyurethane that was shaken" Tags="|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14402" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14403" CreationDate="2023-01-28T04:37:13.700" Score="1" ViewCount="47" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a USB hub that has a large number of wires that are coming into it. This is HDMI cables, VGA, USB cables, power and Ethernet. The USB hub connects to laptop using a USB-C. This USB-C cable is actually very short. I need to be able to connect this cable to laptops of different sizes that I have. This includes laptops used for personel use and also work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to keep the desk area neat, I am going to mount the USB hub onto the back of the desk. Therefore, the USB hub shall be out of sight. Its USB-C cable will stick out on the right side of the desk, near the floor. I can place the laptop there and connect it to this hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have decided that to prevent damage to the USB hub, I will not fix it at a single location. This means that it will be easy to connect it to different laptops of varying sizes. I believe that I need something like this to make this work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1ZpF1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1ZpF1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The USB hub shall be mounted onto the piece of wood &amp;quot;confined to the rails&amp;quot;. This gives it a single degree of freedom, to be able to move vertically. The USB hub is like 4cm while the rod in the diagram is about 40 cm. Maybe I don't need to cover the entire 40 cm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now my question is, what exactly do I look for in the market that will form the rails and the top and bottom end? I can't use the rails sold for use with drawers since they are too long and the center piece in this case is actually like 4 cm high. Ideally there could be a thin metal rod that is serves as the rail but I don't know. What do you think?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is image of the type of USB hub I am referring to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZvZddm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZvZddm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12906" LastEditorUserId="12906" LastEditDate="2023-01-28T11:12:45.093" LastActivityDate="2023-01-28T11:12:45.093" Title="Adding linear motion capability into a piece attached to wooden surface" Tags="|design|mounting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14402" CreationDate="2023-01-28T08:28:48.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could I suppose drill the rail so you could pin the block in place at each position; even using a piece of dowel would do, no need for a metal pin&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there's a much simpler solution, think &lt;strong&gt;marking gauge&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XkQON.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XkQON.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Marking gauge examples&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, you could attach the block to the rail in any of the ways that the two parts of a marking gauge lock together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now my question is, what exactly do I look for in the market that will form the rails and the top and bottom end?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rail can be cylindrical, so you'd buy dowel or metal rod/tube&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, or rectilinear in which case you'd buy or make a narrow board. Then you'd just glue or nail/screw (or both) wooden blocks to both ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if you go with a side-locking mechanism the moving block would not need to be confined, but being confined would give the advantage that the block wouldn't have a tendency to fall off when the locking mechanism is loosened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see from the images, the locking mechanism can be just a dowel (shaped or tapered), a basic wedge, or more commonly a screw-in mechanism of some sort&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Although this can be as simple as a common nail, with or without the head cut off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Or steal the wood or tubular metal handle from something like a broom or mop, even buying new this can sometimes work out cheaper than buying commercial dowelling (especially hardwood).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; If thumbscrews are not cheaply and easily available a perfectly serviceable equivalent can be made from a bolt/machine screw and a wing nut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-01-28T08:28:48.483" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14401" CreationDate="2023-01-28T08:57:52.450" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you bought any level of reduced-sheen varnish — satin, semi-gloss, semi-matt, matt — it has a matting ingredient (a very fine powder of some sort) which needs to be &lt;em&gt;very thoroughly&lt;/em&gt; mixed into the liquid component to give consistent results. So if you bought one of these the clerk did the right thing, knowing that the matting agent could have settled to a dense layer at the bottom of the can since manufacture, and would be quite difficult to thoroughly redistribute by stirring alone (especially stirring by hand with a paint stick).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you bought a full gloss finish however the clerk did not do the right thing, since simple stirring may be all that's required to mix the contents adequately for use. Some gloss finishes don't require &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; stirring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way it's no biggie, since you can just wait for the bubbles to disperse prior to use — depending on how long it's been since you bought much of, possibly all of, the bubbles may already have risen to the surface and popped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long do I have to wait until the bubbles goes away?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look in the can for bubbles. This'll take as long as it takes (but shouldn't take days if that's your worry).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you see no bubbles you're probably fine, but this is a fast-drying finish so it's quick to test and be sure. Brush a little onto a scrap (or the underside/backside of what you're working on), wait for it dry and examine it closely looking for very tiny pinprick bubbles which are the smallest and take the longest to go away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note however that all finishes are prone to a little bubble formation &lt;em&gt;during application&lt;/em&gt;. One way to combat this is to always ensure that the brush is dampened before dipping it in the finish; you'd use water in this case. With oil-based products you use mineral spirits or any equivalent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-01-28T17:13:04.843" LastActivityDate="2023-01-28T17:13:04.843" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13545" CreationDate="2023-01-28T12:26:43.413" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have said, you don’t sand after pre stain wood conditioner.  Totally defeats the purpose, and you just remove it.  Secondly, yes, pre stain wood conditioner is typically for soft woods, it’s saved my butt on fir and pine and poplar, but it can also be used on some hard woods.  I have a piece of southern walnut that is incredibly porous with a few softer areas, and pre stain conditioner was just the thing. If you put it on hardwood that doesn’t need it, you’re gaining and losing nothing, just wasting your time.  Finally, after application the typical wait time before staining is about 15-30 minutes, not 1-2 days.  Minwax says after 24 hours you would need to reapply it.  In your case since you sanded it off, it didn’t matter how long you waited, you will still see it on your pad.  Re-sand surface with a clean sanding pad, wipe with mineral spirits and wait for it to dry, then pre stain if you think you’ll have absorption problems, wait 30-40 minutes, stain.  If you want light sand after staining with a water based stain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12940" LastEditorUserId="12940" LastEditDate="2023-01-28T12:30:01.083" LastActivityDate="2023-01-28T12:30:01.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14406" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14411" CreationDate="2023-01-28T12:58:36.863" Score="1" ViewCount="849" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a chipwood panel. I need to drill holes into it at specific locations. A small error is acceptable which means that I do not need to use a CNC machine for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a diagram that shows something similar to what I will eventually be doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6CLM9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6CLM9.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What tool do I need to use to measure and mark the exact locations? Using measuring tape is not proving easy. I can't use vernier calipre here too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Also, right now once I know location of the hole, I put a + screw driver on it and hit it with hammer. This helps to drill hole in that location later. Is there a better tool or method to mark drill hole location?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12906" LastEditorUserId="12906" LastEditDate="2023-01-28T14:13:20.487" LastActivityDate="2023-02-14T22:27:18.957" Title="Measuring exact point to drill hole in wood panel" Tags="|measurement|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14406" CreationDate="2023-01-29T01:12:54.073" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tape measures are usually used by carpenters where 1/8&amp;quot; or 1/16&amp;quot; is more than accurate enough. Woodworkers often use precision rulers to get accuracy of 1/32&amp;quot; or 1/64&amp;quot; inch &lt;em&gt;when needed&lt;/em&gt; but will frequently use a simple tape measure because 1/16&amp;quot; is more than accurate enough. If that's still not accurate enough for you, you can purchase a machinist's rule that will give you accuracy to a couple of mil (1 mil = 1/1000&amp;quot;)&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To use the tape measure, you simply hook the end over the thing to be measured, pull until you get a few inches past the desired distance, make sure they tape is square to the edge (eyeball it is fine), then mark at the distance desired.&lt;sup&gt;[2]&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to measure 3&amp;quot; in from each edge to make a center point, measure 3&amp;quot; from one edge and use a square &lt;sup&gt;[3]&lt;/sup&gt; to draw a line parallel to the edge you just measured from. Along that line, measure 3&amp;quot; from the perpendicular edge and make a mark. You now have a crosshair at 3&amp;quot; from each edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that you have a pencil mark at your desired drill location, it's recommended to use an awl, a nail, a screw, or other fine, pointed device to make a starting hole for your drill bit so that it goes right where you want it and doesn't wander off. You align the point where you want the hole and push until you've got a bit of a dimple. You then put the drill bit into the dimple and (slowly) start drilling until you've got your hole started, then you can speed up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I've used one of a couple of different size awls over the years. I just recently got a spring loaded punch that works even better. I set the point of the punch where I want it and start pushing. Normally, that's all there is to it. With the spring loaded punch, when I push hard enough, the spring fires and an internal hammer hits the punch making a much deeper mark with far less effort than trying to do it by hand. Making a good mark in pine isn't difficult, making one in oak or maple is far more difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To accurately drill through your two pieces of material and get your holes to line up, you can clamp them together so that one mark will get you through both pieces of material at the same time. If you don't want to do that, you can drill through one piece, then lay that one on the other piece and either put the bit directly into the existing hole and drill through from there, or using a fine point pencil or pen, mark the hole location onto the other piece and separately drill the other hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe you'll get the most accuracy by clamping the pieces and drilling both holes in one pass of the drill. If you should happen to not drill at exactly 90° to the surface of the first piece, you hole in the second piece will still be precisely lined up with the hole in the first &lt;em&gt;and at the same angle&lt;/em&gt;. Either of the 2-step drilling processes can leave the holes at slightly different angles and, if you're drilling with tight tolerances, could make it difficult to get your hardware through the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;Good luck trying to work with wood to that accuracy, but you're certainly welcome to give it a shot if you want. Wood is a natural product with a more-or-less random grain that is going to cause your measurement to the mil to end up wandering off. You &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; work metals to those kinds of tolerances, and you car's engine is thankful for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;[2]&lt;/sup&gt; You'll notice that the tab at the end of a tape measure is loose. It's that way on purpose. The looseness precisely correlates to the thickness of the tab. You hook it over the edge of something and pull and get an accurate measurement from the inside of the tab. You push the tab against the inside of something and get an accurate measurement from the outside of the tab.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;[3]&lt;/sup&gt;A Speed Square™, a tri-square, a framing square, a combination square - it doesn't really matter, they'll all work and they all have advantages &amp;amp; drawbacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2023-01-29T01:12:54.073" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14409" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-29T12:15:23.407" Score="0" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please see this image from an old desk I have inherited:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4beCAm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4beCAm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have concluded that these holes need dowel/barrel nuts and then at-most an M8 bolt that shall be screwed into them. It is also possible to use M6. The height of the dowel nut must be 14mm. I do not have the parts that are required to assemble this and am trying to figure out what I need to buy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hole has diameter of 15mm. I am unable to find dowel/barrel nut that has this diameter. All the ones I can find are 10mm - 12mm. Now the question is what to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One idea I have come up with is, buy wooden dowel stick with 15mm diameter. Cut it and put it into the holes. Use wood glue and then sand the surface. Now, drill a small hole that exactly fits the smaller 10mm metal dowel/barrel nuts and another hole for the bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since these holes are on the side of the desk, I do not see any reason why a cam-lock would be fit into here. Thus, I have ruled out the cam lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12943" LastActivityDate="2023-02-01T07:21:13.657" Title="How to fit small dowel/barrel nut into a large hole?" Tags="|dowel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14410" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-29T21:29:46.027" Score="1" ViewCount="584" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am fairly new to the woodworking scene, and am looking for how to turn a piece of wood into a usable wet erase board, with a clear finish.  Doing some digging, I've found a couple of possible solutions for dry erase, but can't seem to find anything for wet erase markers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thought I had was to use something like polyurethane, which seems to work at least for short term markings.  I would like the board to be resistant to long term markings though also, so I'm not sure if this approach is viable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative thought it to use a thin material over the wood, but since I would like the entire piece to be markable, I am hoping to find a solution in a finishing product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure it affects the end goal, but I would also like to be able to have a design or pattern on the wood before the finish is applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarize: My end goal hope is to have a board with a design on it, that can be marked over with wet-erase markers and erased, even with long term markings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Greatly appreciate any help on this topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12945" LastEditorUserId="12945" LastEditDate="2023-01-29T21:37:45.510" LastActivityDate="2023-02-02T18:46:09.150" Title="Clear finish for wet erase board on wood" Tags="|finishing|water-protection|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14406" CreationDate="2023-01-30T08:03:55.270" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;High accuracy isn't needed here, so I think just eyeballing the hole positions could be perfectly fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A step up from this would be to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-how-to/shop-tips/finger-marking-gauge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;'finger gauge'&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ztMsZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ztMsZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Finger gauging&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do really want consistency then a simple marking guide made from card would work well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TjQMv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TjQMv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Card Guide 1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Align the edges to the workpiece, mark through the hole, rinse and repeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a step up, I present the 'deluxe' model, with Auto Edge Align™:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fZK6I.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fZK6I.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Card Guide 2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even made from card a guide like this can survive in a workshop environment for a surprising amount of time, easily lasting through multiple projects that have the same marking requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is similar in principle to some drilling guides which are used to mark fixed hole locations for dowels, shelf pins etc. on repeat projects. Sometimes these are made from thin sheet metal, but more typically hardboard or thin ply/MDF is used in a woodworking context.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-01-30T08:03:55.270" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14413" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-30T13:04:42.297" Score="1" ViewCount="170" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in a 1930s house in the UK with all the original windows (single glazed). All the windows are wooden casements (although a few are &amp;quot;faux casements&amp;quot;: they look like real opening casements next to them, but in fact don't open).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to replace all panes with vacuum-glazing (a form of double glazing) panes and also add some bulb weatherstrip in a groove to help with both noise and heat insulation. A first set of vacuum panes are on order and will be delivered in March.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've bought a router (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/Makita-RT0700CX4-240-Router-Trimmer/dp/B00EKK6LAO/ref=sr_1_5?crid=12H7UBGSQ41NY&amp;amp;keywords=makita%2Brouter%2Brt0700C&amp;amp;qid=1675081609&amp;amp;sprefix=makita%2520router%2520rt0700c%2Caps%2C83&amp;amp;sr=8-5&amp;amp;th=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Makita RT0700CX4&lt;/a&gt;, 710W) and am a total newb when it comes to routers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. Cutting a very narrow groove for bulb weatherstrip&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The weatherstrip grooves (to be cut on the side of the frames, obviously) need to be about 3 mm wide. I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; the recommended thing here is something like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Compression-1-Flute.html#aTGC041540&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;. But I'm also aware of these &amp;quot;groover&amp;quot; bits, such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_3_0mm_Groover_305.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;. In the latter case I believe the router would be moved along the top of the window, with the cutting blade cutting into the edge. Which type should I use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. Machining the rabbets on the frames to accommodate the new panes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thickness of the existing glazing is probably about 3 mm. The vacuum glazing panes will be 8.3 mm thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that the rabbets on the outside of the casement frames will have to be made deeper. But the area in which the new panes will sit will probably also be slightly wider, because the edge beyond the sight lines of the new panes is 10 mm all round (NB inevitably these panes are much heavier than the existing ones).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what sort of router bit should I looking at in order to both deepen and widen the rabbet groove holding the panes in the casement frames?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope all the above makes sense...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following the comment by FreeMan I contacted Makita UK. Just a note therefore about the shank gauges on bits used with this router. According to the Makita UK technician you should use &lt;strong&gt;Imperial diameter bits&lt;/strong&gt; with this router (1/4&amp;quot; or 3/8&amp;quot;), despite what it appears to say in the manual. Pretty important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12949" LastEditorUserId="12949" LastEditDate="2023-02-02T10:44:30.903" LastActivityDate="2023-02-02T10:44:30.903" Title="What router bits do I need for this job?" Tags="|router|router-bit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14410" CreationDate="2023-01-30T13:25:30.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only thing I can think of without doing a search to see if any new products are out there, is to put a good coat of epoxy to cover the whole surface.  it can take a bit of abuse and should work. And after a lot of time if it starts getting beat up, you should be able to take some very fine sand paper and clean it up again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2023-01-30T13:25:30.353" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14413" CreationDate="2023-01-30T13:58:58.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I had more pictures to make sure I'm envisioning correctly all the parts you are discussing I'd have a little more confidence in this answer.  But here it goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Routers are the easiest way to totally hose up a project if care isn't taken.  you need guides or fences to reduce wiggle, wobble and slips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am assuming you will be taking the frames apart to do this because if you don't you'll have to use a chisel or something similar to take care of all the corners (for the panes, not the weather striping).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally would tend to use a groover style bit, if it can make the groove deep enough for your project because you have one flat guide surface built into it. And if you have the right size guide bearing, it's fairly 'easy' to do it right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a router table (and you can make a simple one from a piece of plywood and 2x4's ) then you can use the straight bit and a fence. Which can be very fast and easy, once set up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case, I'd have some test pieces to play with to make sure you get all your settings correct before trying it out on your actual windows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last thing make sure all your pieces are marked inside/outside so that you run them all through facing the same direction.  Because no matter how close to 'centered' you are, you aren't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2023-01-30T13:58:58.900" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14406" CreationDate="2023-01-30T18:22:36.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sort of thing is exactly what a marking gauge is for. You set the gauge to some desired dimension, say 3 mm, and then scribe a short line parallel to the edge of the part in the vicinity of the hole's center. Do the same from the adjacent edge, and the point where the two lines intersect is the center of the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a marking gauge, you can use a combination square the same way. Set the square so that e.g. 3 mm of the rule protrudes from the head, and then use a sharp pencil to mark a line that distance from the edge. Repeat from the adjacent edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a marking gauge or a combination square, you can use setup bars, drill bits, blocks of wood that you cut on your table saw, or any other objects that happen to have (or add up to) the right dimension. Put the part on your drill press such that the corner of the workpiece is exactly at the center of the bit. Clamp the part in place. Place a 3 mm setup bar (or other object that's 3 mm wide) against the edge, and then place a block of wood against the bar, and clamp it in place. Repeat from the adjacent edge. Now remove the bar, unclamp the part, reposition so that the part is against the two blocks, and drill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you've already got a diagram, one of the easiest ways to locate all the holes at once is to print your diagram out at full size. Spray the back lightly with spray adhesive, e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40071862/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3M Super 77 Multipurpose Spray Adhesive&lt;/a&gt; and then stick it to your workpiece. Thin double-stick tape can also work, but the spray is nice because it secures everything well, but is still easy to remove when you're done. Drill your holes right through the paper in the marked locations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2023-02-14T22:27:18.957" LastActivityDate="2023-02-14T22:27:18.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14410" CreationDate="2023-01-30T19:32:57.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.displays2go.com/Guide/Dry-Erase-Vs-Wet-Erase-Markers-Understanding-Differences-10&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Displays2go web site&lt;/a&gt;, wet erase markers use a paste-like material as the medium. The linked article suggests water as the cleaning substance, in a damp cloth:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wet Erase Markers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wet erase markers, also commonly referred to as wet-wipe markers, can&#xA;be used on any non-porous surface, which makes them great for a&#xA;variety of materials. But wet-erase ink has a few major differences&#xA;from typical dry erase markers. First, wet erase pens use a paste&#xA;instead of an alcohol-based ink which makes the markings&#xA;semi-permanent. This means that a normal whiteboard eraser will not&#xA;remove the markings, but a simple damp cloth will remove it quite&#xA;easily. Another advantage is that wet-erase markings will not fade or&#xA;bubble under intense heat, so they can be used with marker boards that&#xA;feature illumination, as well as projector lamps. A little known&#xA;benefit of wet-erase ink is that it is much less likely to cause an&#xA;allergic reaction than dry-erase formulas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would indicate that almost any surface sealer unaffected by water will perform as needed. Unless subject to abrasion or impact, a polyurethane or epoxy coating should meet your requirements, as will a clear coat application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastEditorUserId="3985" LastEditDate="2023-01-30T22:57:58.097" LastActivityDate="2023-01-30T22:57:58.097" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14418" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14420" CreationDate="2023-01-30T19:46:53.810" Score="1" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;When sanding before applying a stain, I understand that it is important to sand parallel to the grain, because sanding across the grain will make scratches that will stand out. Is it also important to sand only in the direction of the grain and not against it (with a back and forth motion)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2023-01-31T00:34:54.710" LastActivityDate="2023-01-31T03:00:59.387" Title="Sanding direction before staining" Tags="|sanding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14406" CreationDate="2023-01-30T20:46:22.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to provide an alternative answer that doesn't require tooling:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Create construction lines with a measuring tape&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is not that the tool is not accurate, but technique is not correct. You mention in the comments that you can &amp;quot;only measure one axis at a time&amp;quot;, but you can create construction lines by doing so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure in 3 inches in both axes from each corner. Eyeball it as square to the edge as possible, but within a couple of degrees is fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using a straightedge, join these marks together to draw an entire rectangle around the entire board (you don't actually have to draw in all locations, just near the corners)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The intersection of these lines is where your holes will go for the corners.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technique is very similar for the long row of holes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure in 8 inches on top and bottom of the board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw a construction line vertically&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure along that construction line and mark the vertical distances of all the holes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your center punching technique with a screwdriver is good - you can actually use a &amp;quot;center punch&amp;quot; if you'd like to purchase the right tool for the job, but even the handiest of handymen lose theirs on the day they buy it and resort to using a screw, nail, or whatever else is around at the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2689" LastActivityDate="2023-01-30T20:46:22.187" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14418" CreationDate="2023-01-31T03:00:59.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it also important to sand only in the direction of the grain and not against it (with a back and forth motion)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually no. It is rare to need to sand only in one direction, either left or right, or away only and not back toward you, in order to get the desired result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But because grain is not 2-dimensional — it isn't running only along the length of a board but is very much 3-dimensional, also rising or falling (or both, as commonly occurs around knots) — it &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; sometimes beneficial to sand either the whole board or parts of it going only in one direction. This is for the same reason that it is common practice to plane wood in a specific direction (particularly in machine planing and jointing) to lessen or prevent tearout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously the effect is much less pronounced in sanding, where it's only small fibres which can be lifted by the abrasive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you might predict, this is lessened the higher the grit used (in somewhat the same way that taking finer shavings yields a better surface). But you can't rely on this when prepping for stain because you need to stop sanding at a lower grit than you might otherwise prefer to — e.g. 150 instead of 220 — in order for the stain to work most effectively (give the best colour).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-01-31T03:00:59.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14421" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-01T00:51:06.327" Score="0" ViewCount="44" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m putting up a stud wall in front of an existing masonry wall that has a door in. I would like to reposition this door on the new stud wall, and this extend/lengthen the middle section of the doorframe for this additional 10cm width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The existing doorframe is quite ornate though (see photos). I’d rather not throw the whole thing out and start with a new doorframe if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IHz95.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IHz95.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ciZWH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ciZWH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8xnXS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8xnXS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does anyone recognise which router bits I’d need to create new inner profiles?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the best way to cut the blue frame away from the middle section to allow for extension and reattachment later on?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would appreciate any pointers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12955" LastActivityDate="2023-02-01T00:51:06.327" Title="Best way to lengthen a section of doorframe?" Tags="|door|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14409" CreationDate="2023-02-01T07:21:13.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since these holes are on the side of the desk, I do not see any reason why a cam-lock would be fit into here. Thus, I have ruled out the cam lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that you're incorrect. A typical &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07DLWC7RP&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cam nut&lt;/a&gt; is 15 mm in diameter, and the small intersecting hole from the edge appears to be sized perfectly for the &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07K1KYW4L&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mating screw&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that you've mistaken the inside of the panel for the outside?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2023-02-01T07:21:13.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14423" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-01T14:18:28.657" Score="1" ViewCount="236" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm designing a wooden structure for Shibari purpose and I need to calculate the maximum load capacity of a beam at the midpoint. I've tried using various calculators, but I don't fully understand all the parameters. Could someone explain or point me to a place where I can easily calculate the maximum load?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qRk3R.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qRk3R.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The data for my calculations looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Type of wood: spruce&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Class: C24&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lenght: 3000 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;h: 95 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;b: 45 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beam is supported at both ends. The main force will be placed in a single point middle of the beam (hanging on a rope). What's the maximum weight I can put on such beam without it breaking or getting damaged from the bend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12958" LastActivityDate="2023-02-01T15:55:48.647" Title="Calculation of the strength of a wooden beam" Tags="|design|strength|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14423" CreationDate="2023-02-01T15:55:48.647" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to your question is not as simple as it may first appear.  You propose using a 45x95mm (2x4&amp;quot;) piece of lumber spanning 3000mm (10') with a person suspended at mid-point. The amount it will support is substantially greater than even a heavier person would present.  However, there are several problems to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As you apply weight the beam will tend to sag.  How much sag are you willing to accept?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The amount of bearing and the means of connecting the beam at the ends is important.  You want to prevent twist at the ends to maintain secure connections at the bearing points. You must also consider that the load is not static. The person will move and this will introduce lateral loads that make the stresses on the beam more than just vertical causing the beam to twist.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As the beam sags more, it will have a tendency to twist.  In doing so, the vertical profile of the beam decreases and so too does its capability to support the person. It will then have a tendency to twist more and sag further. (Hence the need to properly secure the ends.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your span is significant, and this reduces the load it can carry and its ability to resist the tendency to twist under load.  The shorter the span the better it will perform.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My instincts tell be that the size of your beam is inadequate. I would be inclined to suggest increasing the depth to 6&amp;quot; or 8&amp;quot; and doubling its width.  Of course, the best answer is not in calculation but by testing the set-up before actually using it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2023-02-01T15:55:48.647" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14410" CreationDate="2023-02-02T18:46:09.150" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know you are looking for a wood finish that is dry erase marker safe. My suggestion is to finish the wood including the design with regular finish products and mount glass on the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even a whiteboard will stain over time. The best dry erase surface - one that will last - is glass&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would get glass cut to fit and use mirror mounts or a frame to hold the glass to your surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6222" LastActivityDate="2023-02-02T18:46:09.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14426" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-03T02:21:41.707" Score="0" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'm a bit of an novice woodworker who's taken a class only done one or two small projects from there.  I recently bought a desk from a seller online and it arrived with a small crack in it.  They offered to give me a partial refund to keep it or I could send it back for a full refund.  My question is how (and how hard) would this be to repair and would it be worth my time and effort?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The desk is made out of South American Walnut and the crack itself is on the top of the desk surface, right in the front. The crack is very jagged when running my hand over it (though it is relatively small) and gives the feeling it could give me a splinter.  If I were to repair it I would like to repair it so that it blends in relatively well and will be smooth (and structurally sound) when running my hand across. Based on my limited knowledge and research it seems like I would have to clean the crack out and then fill with epoxy?  If true could I just sand that spot and add some finish or would I have to sand the whole top and refinish in order to get it to look right? And if not true...well that's why I'm here.  All help is appreciated even if the advice is to just send it back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some pics:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3SQ3B.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3SQ3B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ypwxi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ypwxi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Du0b.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Du0b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12965" LastActivityDate="2023-02-06T03:14:26.050" Title="Cracked Hardwood Desk" Tags="|wood-repair|hardwood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14427" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14430" CreationDate="2023-02-03T10:23:33.647" Score="1" ViewCount="425" Body="&lt;p&gt;NB I am in the UK. The situation could be significantly different in other countries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently want to build some simple bookcases. I loathe MDF and want to make these from solid wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many years ago I tried to do that: I bought some Parana Pine. This appears to have been about the worst choice I could have made! Yes, it warped horribly and the shelving was a piece of cxxp. So depressed was I by this experience, and apprehensive about warping and twisting of any wood I might buy from timber merchants, that on the two or so occasions since then that I have put up shelves I instead ordered some &amp;quot;shelving assembly system&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So just now I've started looking around to see what the situation is currently (NB I am in South London). But I find it very difficult to know how realistic it is to expect solid wood to have been properly dried and then sawn/milled, making it fit for purpose. And yet there must be 000s of skilled carpenters in the UK who do manage to obtain properly prepared wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One site with branches local to me is &lt;a href=&quot;https://championtimber.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;championtimber.com&lt;/a&gt;. The following are examples of prices:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Softwood: 21 x 215 mm (finished) £21.30 per metre inc. VAT&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Meranti/Seraya 20 x 220 mm (finished) £36.95 per metre inc. VAT&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;American White Oak: 20 x 220 mm (finished) £55.44 per metre inc. VAT&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the chances that I won't find these boards twisting horribly in the days and weeks following delivery? At those sorts of prices I don't want to make mistakes!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheaper: at &lt;a href=&quot;https://buildingmaterials.co.uk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;buildingmaterials.co.uk&lt;/a&gt; I am slightly shocked to see that they are selling 25 mm x 225 mm (nominal) pine for ... £7.14 per metre! Is cheaper likely to mean more twisty/warpy? I have no idea whatsoever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I increase the chances of ordering non-warping, non-twisting wood for my little project?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12949" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-02-03T13:12:38.900" LastActivityDate="2023-02-04T23:30:28.393" Title="How can I order wood which won't warp?" Tags="|wood|wood-selection|wood-movement|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14427" CreationDate="2023-02-03T16:02:14.160" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ideally you would let the wood acclimatize to the environment it is going to be in after the project is finished before using it. This may take a few months depending on the species and thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That way any warping will happen before you plane the wood to thickness and make your cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, this will mean having a pile of wood for pending projects in your woodshop. Or more realistically a pile of wood that you pull from for your projects that you refill regularly but then let those new pieces sit for a few months before they are eligible to be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the wood is properly dried for the environment then you can refinish the wood and getting it straight again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2023-02-03T16:02:14.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14427" CreationDate="2023-02-04T23:30:28.393" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I increase the chances of ordering non-warping, non-twisting wood for my little project?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Find a reliable local hardwood supplier and build a relationship with them. Instead of ordering online, visit the supplier in person. I don't know if hardwood suppliers work the same way in the UK as they do here in the US, but in my experience being able to look through the stacks of boards to find the ones that suit you is invaluable, and the supplier should be able to help you find a species that will work for your project and fit in your budget.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're able, buy rough sawn lumber and mill the boards yourself. If you don't have the equipment for that, the dealer should be able to do it for you for a fee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Narrow boards are a lot less likely to cup and twist than wide boards, and they're usually less expensive per unit volume too. The tradeoff, of course, is that if you need wide stock, you'll have to spend more time joining two or three narrow boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're really worried about warping, plywood tends to be much more stable than solid wood. I understand that you &amp;quot;loathe&amp;quot; MDF and would prefer solid wood, and that's fine, but woodworking is all about tradeoffs, plywood is a very different product from MDF, and again, plywood can provide a degree of stability that solid wood can't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yet there must be 000s of skilled carpenters in the UK who do manage to obtain properly prepared wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a good bet that they're working directly with a trusted supplier rather than ordering online. They might or might not be selecting the wood themselves, but either way they're probably buying often enough and/or in sufficient quantity that the supplier wants to make sure they're happy. And if they're working with hardwoods they're probably milling the stock themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2023-02-04T23:30:28.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14426" CreationDate="2023-02-06T03:12:39.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To my eye this does not look like damage that occurred during shipping.  The crack is exposed on the bottom face and the edge.  On the edge, the crack has been filled, probably with the finish coat, while the bottom has an exposed, unfilled crack line.  I cannot figure out how the crack is filled on the edge, but not the bottom without the person building it not being aware of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried to repair such a crack myself, but never with satisfactory results.  You can fill the opening with epoxy or some other filler, but it will always be visible.  Granted, it is on the bottom face, but I would know it's there and that is not acceptable to me.  after filling, it would have to be sanded flush across the piece and it might not be possible to apply finish seamlessly without sanding down and applying it to the entire face and edge. This may not be satisfactory to you considering the crack line may still be visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to fix it invisibly is to cut off and replace the damaged board width.  This will probably require removing and refinishing the entire top.  Since the seller offers you a complete refund, I would suggest you take it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2023-02-06T03:12:39.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14435" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-07T01:34:34.470" Score="0" ViewCount="60" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a couple projects that I'm completing at request for a friend with a specific vision where I'm epoxy resin filling an engraved oak surface. I've completed the current piece already but wanna perfect it for the next. I initially stained (green tinted minwax wood finish water-based solid color stain), sealed (matte poly), taped off, engraved, sealed, and then epoxy resin filled (tinted with alcohol ink and micca). I still had some depth with the resin filled engraving that I wanted but the look isn't as clean as I could wish. What order would be best if I wanted to maintain the debossed/indented look of the resin filled engraving (NOT flush with the wood like I see with a lot of resin fill projects) but still be able stain the wood without effecting the color of the resin? What would the best wood, resin and stain be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12977" LastEditorUserId="12977" LastEditDate="2023-02-07T06:11:55.550" LastActivityDate="2023-02-07T06:11:55.550" Title="To keep a debossed look of a resin filled etching, should I stain before or after?" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14437" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-07T13:29:34.923" Score="1" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a piece of hornbeam wood which was cut green. I plan to make a couple of knife handles from it. Now it's extremely wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it make sense to try to force dry it? If yes then do smaller pieces dry with less cracking than larger ones? I'm not talking about drying speed right now. My assumption is yes because smaller piece has more freedom to shrink and move especially if it's cut from the periphery where the rings radius is larger (in extremity it will shrink linearly in one direction).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yhmcx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yhmcx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12982" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-02-08T09:04:22.200" LastActivityDate="2023-03-09T15:14:30.280" Title="Drying European hornbeam for knife handles" Tags="|hardwood|wood-drying|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14437" CreationDate="2023-02-07T16:36:12.923" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of species that are known as hornbeam, but since you're posting from Bulgaria, I will assume you have European Hornbeam (&lt;em&gt;C. betulus&lt;/em&gt;).   It's a very hard wood, and is prone to surface cracks when drying.  With your small piece, and the intended use as knife scales, I would consider cutting the billet and drying the resulting small boards, rather than trying to dry the entire chunk.   If you really only need to get a couple of knife handles, then to maximize the stability for drying, I would cut radial boards circa twice the thickness of the knife blanks you want, first by cutting a slice from directly through center that contains the entire pith, and then by cutting slices from the center of the remaining half circular chunks.   You can continue to cut small slabs from the flats of the remaining quarters, if they are large enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, in to put it in shorter terms, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.protoolreviews.com/what-quarter-sawn-wood-lumber/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;quarter saw the piece&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't want to dry the resulting blanks too quickly, or they will likely surface check and case harden, particularly if you just air dry them.   You may well get good results, though from drying them in a microwave.   &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ehow.com/how_8697080_dry-wood-microwave-oven.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Just be sure to get good instructions on that technique.&lt;/a&gt;   If you experiment with no guidance, you'll get it wrong.   For wood of the thickness you'd be drying, you want to err well to the low end of the microwaving times in the instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11864" LastActivityDate="2023-02-07T16:36:12.923" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14437" CreationDate="2023-02-07T18:01:25.843" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I dry a lot of wood like that (many different species) for bowl turning.  and I find that splitting the 'log' in half (top to bottom, like firewood) does a great job of allowing to dry reasonably quickly and reduces the cracking.  by splitting it in half you are dramatically increasing the surface area for the wood to dry from, and many cracks happen because the outside layers are drying faster than the inside putting a lot of stress on the wood, this also puts the 'crack' where you want it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what you want it for, I'd tend to split it into quarters, and I follow any major splits or cracks already in the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2023-02-07T18:01:25.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14014" CreationDate="2023-02-08T03:58:26.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve also sanded but I’ve reached a point where I can’t tell if all the finish removed or maybe I’ve just gone too far with the stripping and ruined the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood without finish should look uniformly similar - not blotchy. Some wood does have uneven patterns. For the wood in question, if you not sure, look for some unfinished wood inside or under the furniture). In this case, the wood is rather uniform. It should feel uniformly similar after sanding (smooth) as well. The entire surface should look even and similar when wet with water or alcohol, without blotches. Often a strong raking light will reveal if there is still residue of finish left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While there is little detail in the resolution of the photo, it looks like you still have more finish to remove. Assuming the top of this piece is solid wood (and not veneer), feel free to apply more stripper and sand again. You won't ruin the wood (unless you really try hard!) Be mindful of the sides of the top and the underneath of the top since it overhangs the rest of the piece of furniture. This is a common location missed when stripping furniture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: it is possible to not remove all the stripper, which itself can leave a blotchy residue, so follow the instructions carefully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another note: if the furniture was stained originally and then finished, then stripped and sanded - it is possible that the blotchiness is due to some of the stain being sanded away in some areas and not others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastEditorUserId="111" LastEditDate="2023-02-09T14:37:11.770" LastActivityDate="2023-02-09T14:37:11.770" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14437" CreationDate="2023-02-08T09:00:03.203" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it make sense to try to force dry it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only you can answer this, since it's only your requirement that drives the decision to speed-dry versus just waiting for the wood to naturally season over a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This piece, if dried whole, should be left for &lt;em&gt;at least a year&lt;/em&gt;, unless you can put it somewhere unusually warm and consistently dry, ideally with good airflow too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If yes then do smaller pieces dry with less cracking than larger ones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't seal the end grain, very much so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do nothing to chunks of green wood cracks are virtually inevitable in most species, and they can be severe. However, given the exact requirement clarified in the Comments (small puukko style knives) it's possible that you could do nothing with a piece this size and still get numerous&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; handle blanks from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not talking about drying speed right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are intending to air-dry it's best practice to seal the end grain (see link below). This will maximise the yield&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, giving you the most flexibility on what wood you can select from for each handle — choosing for grain, colour/figure — &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; so you have as much usable wood as possible for potential future uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you split or saw the 'log' into wedges, these smaller pieces will air-dry substantially faster than the original piece of wood; note that it would be absolutely vital to seal the end grain if you do this because cracks in smaller pieces are more likely to intrude into wood you want to use. I've lost many handle blanks this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally this would allow you to experiment if you'd like to, air-drying the majority of the pieces and trying out two of the fastest speed-drying methods — boiling and microwaving — which could potentially give useful handle blanks in half a day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;strong&gt;A few notes on seasoning&lt;/strong&gt; at the end of &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/11625/tool-handle-wood-which-to-cut/11631#11631&quot;&gt;this Answer&lt;/a&gt; for some info on boiling handle blanks, and cautions about microwaving, as well as guidance on sealing the end grain with melted wax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; I'd say three for sure but as many as five might be possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; If this chunk is long enough the yield could go up from 3-5 to as many as 10-12!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-02-08T09:00:03.203" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6596" CreationDate="2023-02-08T14:02:28.990" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can buy a commercial heaters that has a shut off at 157 instead of 120 on Amazon.  If you use a temperature controller you should easily be able to get up to 140 if you set the heater on low and slowly work up to 140 to make sure the heater does not get over 157.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However take note most dehumidifiers won't work over 105, as dehumidifiers work by cooling the air down past the dew point.  Thus you will need to control humidity by pumping the air out of the chamber let it cool down and then use a dehumidifier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12985" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2023-02-18T02:24:36.300" LastActivityDate="2023-02-18T02:24:36.300" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14444" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14445" CreationDate="2023-02-11T19:34:25.827" Score="1" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to build a wood AC register and I need to glue together the components you see in this picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YLKhl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YLKhl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They don't fit closely enough to hold in place when put together so it is really a challenge to position them evenly and then to glue them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am considering creating a grid of nails like in the picture below. is there a better way to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/as6jr.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/as6jr.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="497" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-02-14T07:11:00.020" LastActivityDate="2023-02-14T07:11:00.020" Title="What is a good way to glue these components into place and ensure even spacing?" Tags="|assembly|gluing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14444" CreationDate="2023-02-12T01:51:57.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any time you need repeatable spacing you should 'jig' it, as for example many contractors set a fixed gap between decking boards using 16d nails, interior panelling might be spaced with nickels. etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So just make yourself a spacer block to the right thickness and start laying. If you don't have the means to easily thickness a board to a desired dimension you could use a stack of playing cards&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; instead, held together with a rubber band or two, or maybe a couple of spring clamps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you begin, you'll want to plan ahead carefully so you don't end up with an awkward gap at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then position your first slat carefully, clamp if you can, tack it in place either through the outsides or toenail it in from whatever angles suit you best&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, then position the next slat using your spacer, rinse and repeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; I don't have batteries in my digital calipers currently, so I can't measure my casino cards to confirm :-) but various sources online state that playing cards are typically about 0.2mm thick (~1/127&amp;quot;) so you can make quite an accurate spacer using them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Obviously a lot easier and faster if you own a brad nailer or pin nailer, but you can do it by hand if you have to, same way they did before nail guns came along.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-02-12T01:51:57.337" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="319" CreationDate="2023-02-16T21:58:01.333" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One trick I have found to work is cut the boards into thin stripping then glue and clamp them back together. Lamentation. The wood will follow what you clamp to. Flat or shaped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13007" LastActivityDate="2023-02-16T21:58:01.333" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14448" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-17T05:10:31.947" Score="2" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know where I can find detailed information (discussion, diagrams, etc.) about the &amp;quot;proper&amp;quot; length of plane needed for any given length of wood, or any given type of imperfection needing to be corrected? I understand there's a lot of personal preference in the plane you use, and the techniques involved in achieving the desired result. What I'm looking for is something that demonstrates how uneven wood is transformed, on a shaving-by-shaving basis, by different plane lengths. I have already read &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/7538/squaring-boards-with-only-a-4-plane&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; post, which does have some good info about what can be accomplished with one #4. When I google the topic, all I get is basic info about which plane to use for which stage of production. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12962" LastActivityDate="2023-02-17T13:00:07.127" Title="Where can I find detailed information about plane length?" Tags="|plane|hand-planing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14448" CreationDate="2023-02-17T13:00:07.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am no hand plane expert and this is my understanding from reading around the internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic bench planes numbered 1 through 8 in Stanley nomenclature (also adopted by other manufacturers) are ordered by size, not order of usage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rough guide about their use is (not definitive):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;#6 (fore plane) or #5 (jack plane) for initial planing of rough wood. Might include a serrated blade to speed this up; take large shavings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;#7 or #8 (both jointer planes) to flatten out face and edge. Their long length facilitate the flattening; take moderate shavings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;#3 or #4 (both smoothing planes) to achieve the final smoothing of the board. Their short length allows easier access to small imperfections in the wood that the larger planes will simply skip over; take fine shavings and can be considered the final step in preparing the wood (forgoing sanding or scraping entirely)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2023-02-17T13:00:07.127" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14450" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-19T19:52:02.937" Score="0" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a wood desk clock using 6/4 walnut and a clock insert. I want to install a 4&amp;quot; X 4&amp;quot; X 1/4&amp;quot; decorative ceramic tile below the clock. I think I would need to remove 3/8&amp;quot; of wood to allow for the installation of the tile and grout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What tools and methods would you recommend I employ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13018" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-02-20T06:44:26.177" LastActivityDate="2023-03-23T19:00:25.127" Title="Remove 3/8&quot; of wood to allow for tile and necessary grout?" Tags="|technique|router|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14451" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-20T04:27:13.440" Score="0" ViewCount="263" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of building this shelf out of 1/4&amp;quot; thick MDF:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gf8zF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gf8zF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now knowing how slow I am in the most basic of woodworking, I want the job to be speedy &amp;amp; easy. So I decided laser cutting it &amp;amp; joining it with finger joints, would be an excellent way to go about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is producing the vector file that will be fed to the laser cutter. The cuts, with it's finger joints, would be time consuming to be manually drawn in a vector graphics software, not to mention error prone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I need an automated way of generating these cuts to a file. Sort of like what a lot of these &amp;quot;box generators&amp;quot; do (except the shelves are tilted):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://makerdesignlab.com/tutorials-tips/online-file-generators-for-laser-cutting/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://makerdesignlab.com/tutorials-tips/online-file-generators-for-laser-cutting/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe there is a hack that would take boxes generated by these generators &amp;amp; modify/chuck-away certain parts to end up with the shelf in the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12843" LastActivityDate="2023-02-21T06:00:32.227" Title="&quot;Box generator&quot;-like software for laser cutting this shelf from MDF" Tags="|wood|milling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14452" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-20T23:02:09.950" Score="0" ViewCount="244" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm genuinely at my wit's end. I'm using a dark oak oil stain on beech, and tested it on a spare bit of wood. I sanded the piece down to 240grit with an orbital sander before applying the stain. It looks &lt;em&gt;awful&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried using a pre stain conditioner before staining but it makes the colour extremely light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wdqcgm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wdqcgm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bad stain 1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ozyr6m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ozyr6m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bad stain 2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, I also tested the stain on another scrap bit, similarly coloured but an unknown wood type (though I'm guessing not beech) and it looks absolutely fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TKW9Ws.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TKW9Ws.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;nice stain&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice would be extremely appreciated as I'm genuinely not sure what my options are at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13025" LastActivityDate="2023-02-21T05:29:56.370" Title="Extremely blotchy stain - advice needed!" Tags="|wood|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2023-03-02T14:23:13.570" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14451" CreationDate="2023-02-21T05:20:38.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is producing the vector file that will be fed to the laser cutter. The cuts, with its finger joints, would be time consuming to be manually drawn in a vector graphics software, not to mention error prone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any half-decent CAD package would handle this easily: you'd only have to draw one or two of the diagonal pieces, along with their joinery, and then you could simply duplicate those for the other diagonal parts. With the diagonal parts arranged, you could draw in the vertical support and horizontal base, subtract the diagonal parts to cut joinery holes. Then lay all the parts out flat to create a vector file for your laser cutter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, laser cut box/finger joints seem like a lot of trouble for this project. You've got a total of nine parts, seven of which are identical except for a bevel on the bottom diagonal. The horizontal base is also the same width as the diagonals. It's hard to tell whether the vertical support is the same width. Starting with a sheet of 1/4&amp;quot; material, you'd only need to rip a few strips, cut the strips to length, and then glue them together with perhaps some nails or staples to hold things in place. If you've got a table saw, or access to one, you'll be done before the laser cutter finishes cutting the parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2023-02-21T05:20:38.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14452" CreationDate="2023-02-21T05:29:56.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice would be extremely appreciated as I'm genuinely not sure what my options are at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think I have the answers you're looking for, but maybe offering some thoughts will get your wheels turning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the pre-stain conditioner gives you a lighter finish than what you're after, that just means it's doing its job. Blotchy stain comes from some areas of the wood absorbing stain faster. The conditioner soaks into the wood first, slowing down the absorption in those areas and giving you a more even color. If you want a darker color, you can apply more stain and leave it on longer before wiping it off, or apply a second coat -- just recognize that the conditioner is going to slow things down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A gel stain might be a good choice here. Gel stains are designed to sit mostly on the surface instead of soaking into the wood, so they can avoid that blotchy look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It seems like you're on the right track: testing your finishing process on scraps until you're happy with the result is always a better idea than experimenting on your project. Just remember to keep trying. If you're not happy with this oil-based stain, try another product like a water based stain, gel stain, or aniline dye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2023-02-21T05:29:56.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14451" CreationDate="2023-02-21T06:00:32.227" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I've got an approach of my own. I'll use a generator to have T-beams like these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/alkGs.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/alkGs.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I can keep on connecting them in zigzag. It's reasonably not-so-hard that I may manually do this in a vector program, but I'd still rather go for a generator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The back, which is the main support, I may use a thicker piece of wood (still have to decide). I'm thinking of cutting tilted grooves at the back, instead of finger joining it (an incentive to use thicker wood). So that will go to the table saw, where I can repeatedly cut dados at the fixed intervals. It's fine that the grooves go through the whole side-to-side. I'll just plug it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12843" LastActivityDate="2023-02-21T06:00:32.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14450" CreationDate="2023-02-21T18:16:48.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A router (powered or hand) is normally the tool used to make an inset in a piece of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose you could use a Forstner bit in a drill press with a depth stop to hog out most of the material, but then you'd need to clean up the bottom because the Forstner bit will leave a mark from the spur at the center. If you wanted, you could buy a cheap bit and file off the spur for this project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2023-02-21T18:16:48.660" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14457" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-23T03:29:21.913" Score="1" ViewCount="284" Body="&lt;p&gt;We refurbished an old family table. We did the whole process of sanding and now have finally applied the stain (1 coat of Provinal) and applied the first coat of polyurethane. After we applied it we did a very light sand and noticed that some of the stain did not take well. I did not want this table to be dark so we did only one coat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is now that some of the stain is coming up can we sand the polyurethane and apply another coat of stain and the apply the polyurethane?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm praying we don't have to sand it completely again and start over. The wood was a very light wood color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Katrina Exner" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-02-23T18:58:13.387" LastActivityDate="2023-02-23T18:58:13.387" Title="Applying stain after sanding off first coat of polyurethane" Tags="|sanding|staining|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8138" CreationDate="2023-02-23T20:01:55.333" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps garnet shellac would give you the darker colour your looking for. I have seen a number furniture restorers use it for an antique finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13035" LastActivityDate="2023-02-23T20:01:55.333" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14459" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14461" CreationDate="2023-02-26T19:19:17.080" Score="2" ViewCount="47" Body="&lt;p&gt;This will be a very basic question, but I'm not sure I trust Googled results.  For example, there is a suggestion that I &amp;quot;feather out&amp;quot; polyurethane finish; my experience tells me that it is impossible to make that look good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, if there are some scratches and imperfections on my hardwood floor, is it possible to sand, reapply finish, and then somehow smooth over the border between the &amp;quot;new&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;old&amp;quot; finish?  The floor has not been stained, and I have the oil-based polyurethane finish it has been originally covered with (Varathane Clear Satin 275 VOC Oil-Based Floor Finish Polyurethane).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my previous home, I tried refinishing an area, covering its borders with painter's tape.  Unfortunately, that resulted in 2 problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Removing painter's tape peeled off some of the old finish.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Even where the old finish survived, the border was clearly visible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reapplying finish on the newly exposed spots just looked like the finish was spilled over.  There can be no &amp;quot;feathering&amp;quot; that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to sand the bad spots with 240-grit sandpaper, but that dulled out the finish without really fixing anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So...  Before doing anything in my new home, I want to ask: is it worth trying with higher-grit sandpaper?  There are grits up to 3000.  Which grit should I try?  Or -- is wood finish just not sandable in principle, and the only way to make this &amp;quot;look good&amp;quot; is by refinishing the entire room?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13041" LastActivityDate="2023-02-27T01:26:28.720" Title="Is it possible to smooth over sides of re-finished area?" Tags="|finishing|sanding|refinishing|flooring|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14460" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14462" CreationDate="2023-02-26T23:14:58.473" Score="2" ViewCount="523" Body="&lt;p&gt;These terms in some instances seem to be conflated, or have very similar definitions. For instance, here's a quote from ScrewFix's website on their 'self-tapping and driving screws page' (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Self-tapping screws are designed to tap their own hole in the desired material, &lt;strong&gt;meaning that no pilot holes needs to be drilled before hand&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They make no mention of self-drilling, leading me to believe the two terms are synonymous. On the other hand, ToolStation assures me they are not the same:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tapping is when screws create threads in the material they are driven into. Whereas regular screws are typically driven into specially prepared drill holes, a self-tapping screw makes its own threads as it enters. However, they &lt;strong&gt;still require a pre-drilled pilot hole&lt;/strong&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Self-Tapping Screws vs Self Drilling Screws...&#xA;The main difference is that self-drilling screws do not need a pilot hole&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are both large UK-based trade stores, so I don't think this just a difference in UK/US terminology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what is the difference between self-tapping and self-drilling? And what does &amp;quot;tapping their own threads&amp;quot; mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12342" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-02-27T16:56:58.127" LastActivityDate="2023-02-27T16:56:58.127" Title="What is the difference between self-drilling and self-tapping screws?" Tags="|screws|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14459" CreationDate="2023-02-27T01:26:28.720" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to address this in a generic way to begin with&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...is it possible to sand, reapply finish, and then somehow smooth over the border between the &amp;quot;new&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;old&amp;quot; finish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes this is possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of sources do state it's impossible while not saying much about why, even those that do go some way towards an explanation tend to repeat well-worn platitudes like &amp;quot;it's impossible to hide the edges&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;a tide mark is inevitable&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone who has ever done this successfully knows these are bunk. Feathering in &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be done successfully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I think is true however is that you can't go into a job like this knowing you'll be successful, even with previous good outcomes under your belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes (rarely) this goes quite smoothly and actually seems easy, if it's your first time you wonder what the fuss is all about. But in some cases it's not as straightforward as in others and things just don't go well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[is] the only way to make this &amp;quot;look good&amp;quot; is by refinishing the entire room?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some sources will certainly tell you this (and not just those trying to get more business).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re-doing the whole floor is undoubtedly &lt;em&gt;a&lt;/em&gt; way to ensure the room ends up looking uniform. Whether it will then match the floor in the hallway or an adjacent room is another question......&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you have imperfections in the finish layer only&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This is relatively easy to rectify. In fact it's actually routine to do this kind of thing, although it does require care and attention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many guides on how to 'perfect' or polish a finish, which all involve some amount of levelling or flattening off (via scraping and sanding), followed either by further abrasion up to a very high grit&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; or, careful application of a final coat or two over the levelled/smoothed existing finish&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you have imperfections in the wood&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This is what's trickier to do, since you have to sand down to bare wood, sand it enough to remove the imperfections, and then apply new finish to the bare wood and on to the surrounding edges of the original finish, hope the colour ends up uniform, and then try to blend in the new finish with the existing finish. In addition to the general difficulties of feathering in&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; there are two additional factors which present obstacles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the wood may have changed colour due to light exposure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so the freshly sanded area &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; be lighter (darker woods) or darker (lighter woods), and/or a slightly different hue, and/or may be more vibrant or saturated&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt;. All of these possible colour differences may even out over time, but it can be a long wait with many species — a few years at least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the finish may have changed colour since it was first applied. So even if you have the exact same can of finish that was used originally it is no longer the same colour as the stuff previously applied.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no getting around this particular problem using only the original finishing product. While tinting the finish or using other colouring tricks are possible either is a shorter-term fix, since what will happen eventually is that the colour-matched new finish will subsequently end up darker than everything around it once it too darkens naturally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; As you sand to higher and higher grits at some point no discrete sanding scratches are visible, and eventually you will actually be polishing the surface, although generally to produce a true high-gloss surface polishing agents need to be employed at the end of the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; In furniture work finished in varnish this is now often accomplished by one, possibly two, final dilute coats (i.e. wiping varnish). Applying thinned varnish and wiping away some or all excess makes it relatively straightforward to get a good result, with minimal or zero chance of any bad dust nibs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Bonding issues, tide marks or 'witness marks'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt; Pine darkens a lot and will go more burnt-orange or tan, oak will tend to get darker and go browner, walnut will lighten and tends to get more orangey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-02-27T01:26:28.720" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14460" CreationDate="2023-02-27T16:18:45.023" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what is the difference between self-tapping an self-drilling? And&#xA;what does &amp;quot;tapping their own threads&amp;quot; mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you think about the process of preparing a material for a screw the terms may be clearer.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uOhkU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uOhkU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;For a screw like this you would have to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill a hole&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tap the hole&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;And then it would be ready to use.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Self-drilling screws drill their own pilot hole. They have a sort of&#xA;drill bit built into the tip of the screw which drills a hole and then they create their own threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Self-tapping screws require a pilot hole to be drilled. When driven into the material they create their own threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Self-piercing screws don't need a pilot hole. When driven into the material they create their own threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://afbolt.com/images/pdf/Self-tapping_drilling_piercing_screws.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chart&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8zg8E.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8zg8E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6222" LastActivityDate="2023-02-27T16:18:45.023" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9784" CreationDate="2023-03-01T00:41:21.500" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a brush on laquer finish applied with a brush you will have evidence of the brush( brush marks) sorry ,it is the nature of the beast,you can minimize it to an extent by wet sanding between coats but the final coat will still have brush marks.Spraying will and can get you a glass smooth finish ,with wet sanding,and compounding ,an unequaled finish but not with a brush, the only way to get there with less work ,is enamels,urethanes and epoxies,they have their own problems,equipment needs AND Dangers. Sorry,the Japanese have some really nice laquer techniques .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13044" LastActivityDate="2023-03-01T00:41:21.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14464" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-01T05:40:59.707" Score="1" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got these beautiful cane backed chairs off a local buy nothing group. At some point in their lives someone decided to paint them with a cheap white paint that felt sticky to the touch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided to try my first refinish job. I used Citristrip to take off the white paint and wiped down with mineral spirits. I noticed under the paint the wood looked blotchy almost and not even so I tried sanding it down but it didn't go away unfortunately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't love the look any more. My plan was to stain them using a walnut color stain to try and match a sideboard we have. My worry is the stain will just make the blotches look worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do to try and save these chairs or at least make it less noticeable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OyHg0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OyHg0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13045" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-05-16T04:57:20.603" LastActivityDate="2024-02-10T06:03:20.440" Title="Chair refinishing advice" Tags="|finishing|wood|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14464" CreationDate="2023-03-01T20:28:14.330" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed under the paint the wood looked blotchy almost and not even so I tried sanding it down but it didn't go away unfortunately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think it would be possible to get rid of this so there would probably be no point in attempting to sand further. Some woods are naturally prone to being blotchy, and any piece of wood can exhibit this to some degree if the grain is irregular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan was to stain them using a walnut color stain to try and match a sideboard we have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the absence of painting the chairs again — which would give the most uniform result with the least effort — going dark is probably your best bet for an attractive end result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My worry is the stain will just make the blotches look worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's a legitimate concern with conventional stains which are intended to be absorbed by the wood and you already know the wood is problematical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So instead of using conventional stain it would be advisable to use so-called &lt;strong&gt;gel stain&lt;/strong&gt;. These aren't stains per se but instead coloured varnish that has been thickened to some degree for ease of application and to give them better covering power&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are easy to use and quite forgiving (e.g. of wood that was previously finished) so it's relatively easy even for a first-timer to get good results, although I would still highly recommend watching a few videos&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; before attempting your first chair to get comfortable with the overall method and so you will be sure to have all you need on hand before you begin&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stripped of paint and sanded, your chairs are likely not to require any further prep work, although it is possible sanding lightly one last time with a &lt;em&gt;coarser&lt;/em&gt; grit than you previously ended with might be beneficial — be advised by the specific product you buy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the &amp;quot;gel stain&amp;quot; you'll need a clear finish for protection, again be guided by the brand you buy. However, as a rule you can use almost anything you like on top if you leave the stain to dry for a suitable period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Many makes of &amp;quot;gel stain&amp;quot; are now available, and in a good range of colours, and while I won't recommend anything in particular I would caution that Minwax is generally the cheapest available for good reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; There are numerous helpful videos on various channels on YouTube and a quick search will give you lots to look at. Two quick plugs: Dashner Design &amp;amp; Restoration uses the product quite frequently, so, many of his videos will feature its use and as a 'regular Joe' his content is very accessible; the finish manufacturer General Finishes have quick, to-the-point videos on all their major products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; I'm not sure if all manufacturer instructions will specify, or how much emphasis they'll put on it, but you'll want plenty of paper towels or rags on hand for wiping away excess. They can also be used for application, although you can apply &amp;quot;gel stain&amp;quot; with just about anything including your fingers (not joking, but obviously with gloves on). &lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; as an oil-based finish, care needs to be exercised with any rags/paper towels soaked with it after use — lay them flat to dry, when stiff you can dispose of them with the rest of the garbage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-05-16T04:56:00.130" LastActivityDate="2023-05-16T04:56:00.130" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14467" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14469" CreationDate="2023-03-02T12:29:33.400" Score="0" ViewCount="136" Body="&lt;p&gt;All the furniture building videos I have seen so far, the grain of the wood on the side panels is top to bottom. The grain on the top panel is left to right. By grain I mean the long threads that make up the natural wood and that split when we cut the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the reason for this only aesthetics or there is more to it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12906" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-03-02T14:14:00.970" LastActivityDate="2023-03-02T14:25:54.603" Title="Why is furniture built with side panel grain being vertical?" Tags="|design|wood-movement|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14467" CreationDate="2023-03-02T13:20:10.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well in general it does look better other than for specific effects you might be going for.  That being said...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The grain of wood (the direction you are talking about) is how the wood grows, that is the length dimension.  You can have a board 40' long if you have a big enough mill to cut it, because that is the direction the tree is growing.  Across the grain is the width of the tree, and you will always be much more limited to how wide the tree is.  Saying all this to say that it is much easier to get boards that are long with the grain in that direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now why do really long pieces still generally have the grain going up and down?  probably partly esthetics and partly, the internal frame of the piece allows more easily to attach the slats vertically, and also provides more structural stability (more triangles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2023-03-02T13:20:10.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14467" CreationDate="2023-03-02T14:25:54.603" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is furniture built with side panel grain being vertical?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main original reason was purely a practical one, to more easily allow for &lt;strong&gt;wood movement&lt;/strong&gt;. Wood expands/contracts largely across the grain (movement along its length is tiny and can safely be ignored in virtually all furniture work).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This vertical grain is now a convention and is followed when furniture has a veneered surface, e.g. in cabinets made from plywood&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. I should say followed &lt;em&gt;most of the time&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When building in solid wood, to understand why this is important, just imagine if you had a chest of drawers which changed height through the seasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At its 'widest' (tallest) the gaps between drawers would increase.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At its 'narrowest' (shortest) it's possible the drawers would be so tightly squeezed they couldn't be opened, and there would be other problems.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The grain on the top panel is left to right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The grain on tops was aligned to match that of the sides so that they expanded and contracted along the same axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When building in solid wood if a table, bureau, sideboard etc. had the grain oriented the other way the piece would change width through the seasons, causing havoc with any drawers or doors in their openings, plus literally scraping any feet across the floor (a surprising distance in wider pieces).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Historically this was important even in veneer work because the substrate was solid wood, e.g. pine boards, which needed to have their grain oriented vertically, not just to match the movement of the veneer on top but for the structural reasons outlined here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; As furniture is increasingly designed by people with no formal training or grounding in historical furniture, just made ad hoc by the maker with no specific design intention, or deliberately to look different or 'be modern' we can expect this convention to be increasingly eroded..... as a lot of furniture principles have been and continue to be in modern times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-03-02T14:25:54.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14470" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14471" CreationDate="2023-03-02T16:50:04.543" Score="1" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen some youtube videos on the topic of woodworking. I have noticed two approaches for side panels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first approach involves using timber to create a frame for the side and then cutting grooves into the wood. Then an engineered wood panel (usually plywood) goes into the center. There is little work involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second approach is to take several planks of wood. First cut their left and right side using table saw to make the edges be completely flat and straight. Then use wood glue to stick the panels together along their width to create a single large panel of wood. Now this large panel that is made of smaller glued wooden panels is put through planer and sanded to make it flat and then used in the design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The end result gives two different aesthetics. Now my questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How is choice made between these two methods?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When we use the second approach, won't the expansion and contraction of wood cause the glued panels to fall apart?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12906" LastActivityDate="2023-03-02T19:51:21.677" Title="Are large panels always created by glueing smaller panels together?" Tags="|panel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14470" CreationDate="2023-03-02T19:39:15.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are large panels always created by glueing smaller panels together?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No.&lt;/strong&gt; Plywood and MDF are often used when that makes sense. Glass or acrylic are obviously used, and I realize that you probably didn't have see-through doors in mind for this question, but other than the material there's not much difference between that and wood panels. (Also: in the future it might not be unusual to use &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transparent_wood_composite&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;transparent wood&lt;/a&gt; panels. Other materials might be called for if the panel needs to be lightweight, fire resistant, bulletproof, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is choice made between these two methods?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's made by considering various factors such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;aesthetics:&lt;/strong&gt; Plywood can work well for flat panels, but not for raised panels. MDF can be used for flat or raised panels, but it's not very attractive so it usually makes sense only for projects that will be painted. Solid wood is good for flat or raised panels and can be very attractive, but since wide boards are very expensive, solid panels tend to be glued up from narrower boards. Panels can also be covered with veneer to get a single-piece look at a lower cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;cost:&lt;/strong&gt; Probably everybody is concerned with keeping costs down, but it may be a higher priority if you're mass producing a product than it is if you're a weekend warrior or custom furniture maker building just one or two copies of a project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;labor:&lt;/strong&gt; Gluing boards up into panels, and then flattening them, involves a lot more work than just cutting sheet stock to length and width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;capabilities:&lt;/strong&gt; Depending on your tools, workspace, availability of materials, and so on, some options may be off the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;quality/durability:&lt;/strong&gt; Many people consider solid wood to be higher quality, more durable, more likely to become an heirloom, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When we use the second approach, won't the expansion and contraction of wood cause the glued panels to fall apart?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not if you build it right. The boards that make up a panel expand mainly across their width, but the glue joints normally run lengthwise, so those joints aren't subject to much expansion. And the main idea behind frame-and-panel construction is to allow for seasonal movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The panel should be captured in the groove on the inside of the frame, so it's held securely without glue while remaining free to expand or contract seasonally. The stiles and rails of the frame are narrow enough that there's little expansion across their width, and the grain runs along their long dimensions so the frame stays the same size even though the panel it contains changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Panels made from stable materials like plywood and MDF are sometimes glued into their frames for extra strength. Solid wood panels should never be glued in; they're said to &amp;quot;float&amp;quot; in the groove in the frame, which is deep enough to accept the expected seasonal expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2023-03-02T19:51:21.677" LastActivityDate="2023-03-02T19:51:21.677" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14472" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-03T05:41:59.340" Score="0" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not a native English speaker and would like to know the difference between the words: panel and board in the furniture industry. My understanding is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;board might include panel but has more various shape, like circle, oval, triangle etc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;panel is only a board of a rectangular shape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I would appreciate if someone could tell me should a bent panel (90 degree bend along the center) is still called a panel since it's not flat any more?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="cmabill" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-03-03T10:05:05.533" LastActivityDate="2023-03-24T08:51:56.643" Title="Technical meaning difference between board and panel in the furniture industry?" Tags="|terminology|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14472" CreationDate="2023-03-03T10:02:25.267" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Board&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Board is synonymous with plank: a single, usually rectilinear, length of wood sawn or riven (split) from a tree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally the grain would run along the longer dimension of the piece, but a short but wide piece can still be called a board. Note that in certain woodworking traditions there are specialised additional words for boards of certain sizes or proportions, including narrow lengths or shorts pieces (although both come under the general term 'offcut' since that's literally what they are).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Panel&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;In furniture work panel might be used to describe any piece &lt;em&gt;beyond a certain size&lt;/em&gt;, regardless of what it is made from and regardless of shape — basically any big, flat piece could be called a panel. So for example tabletops are panels, and one might say &amp;quot;I glued up three boards to make up the panel for the tabletop&amp;quot; and such a tabletop could be rectangular, oval, circular or another shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These days when working in solid wood &lt;em&gt;wider&lt;/em&gt; panels are glued together from two or more boards for a number of reasons. In the past, where huge old trees were much more common than today, even very large panels could often be single pieces of wood simply because boards of that size were available and didn't have a particular price premium as wide boards do today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a type of construction called 'frame-and-panel', and within this context the central piece held by the frame is called a panel &lt;em&gt;regardless of size&lt;/em&gt;. See the various sizes of the panels in the top, front and side of this tool chest:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5GSyp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5GSyp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Frame-and-panel tool chest&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/tool-chest/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And can sometimes be very small, as in the doors of this spectacular one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3nMUx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3nMUx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Craftsman's tool chest with frame-and-panel doors&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/craftsmans-tool-chest/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would appreciate if someone could tell me should a bent panel (90 degree bend along the center) is still called a panel since it's not flat any more?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think a native speaker would describe something like this as &amp;quot;a panel&amp;quot;, but there aren't any hard rules and many people talk informally and use their preferred (non-standard) words for things in English (both American and British English, as well as elsewhere).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-03-03T10:08:26.393" LastActivityDate="2023-03-03T10:08:26.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14474" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-03T15:56:15.937" Score="2" ViewCount="278" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am designing a 25 x 21 x 13 inch toybox with an electric solenoid-actuated spring-release lock that pushes the lid up slightly when activated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am concerned that a soft-close hinge might resist the spring release. Does anyone know if these hinges do also resist opening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13056" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-03-03T17:16:50.360" LastActivityDate="2024-04-01T10:02:10.257" Title="Do soft-close hinges also resist opening?" Tags="|hinges|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14475" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14476" CreationDate="2023-03-06T19:54:23.070" Score="2" ViewCount="284" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have purchased an epoxy table. The design was very unique, but the guy who sold it said its not highest quality, so it was discounted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It consists of many pieces of wood covered in epoxy with some pieces exposed on the surface. One of them started cracking. What is the best way to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Xn4M.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Xn4M.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0T80j.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0T80j.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13060" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2023-03-10T16:18:13.260" LastActivityDate="2023-03-10T16:18:13.260" Title="Epoxy table exposed wood cracked" Tags="|wood|wood-repair|epoxy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14475" CreationDate="2023-03-07T17:12:58.700" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But some pieces are exposed. One of them started cracking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trying to fix this will probably only make the problem worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like the crack is at the edge of one exposed piece that has shrunk. That's pretty typical for wood: it expands a little bit when the average humidity is high, and shrinks when it's low. If you fill the crack with more epoxy (or anything else), that same piece of wood won't have the space to expand again in the future when the humidity increases. Even though the change in the wood is small, it can exert tremendous force and might well cause a larger crack in the epoxy that would be impossible to repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to try to fix this, you'd need to seal the wood off from the environment so that it'll stop changing seasonally. You might be able to use a router with a template to remove the top surface of the exposed piece, creating a recess. Then you could mix and pour new epoxy into the recess, up to the surface of the table. You'd then need to scrape or sand the surface flush, and then try to polish the surface to get the repair to blend in. Doing that well seems like a difficult job even for someone skilled in working with epoxy, and probably not really feasible without the right knowledge and equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2023-03-10T01:41:40.250" LastActivityDate="2023-03-10T01:41:40.250" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14477" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14480" CreationDate="2023-03-07T18:31:32.103" Score="-2" ViewCount="1457" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both wood veneer and plywood both use layers of nautral wood stuck to engineered wood. What is then the difference between them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12906" LastActivityDate="2023-03-08T07:33:32.660" Title="What is the difference between &quot;wood veneer&quot; and &quot;plywood&quot; wood?" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14477" CreationDate="2023-03-07T20:50:35.700" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;ultimately, the difference comes down to the quality of the outside ply.  both are thin layers of wood stacked and glued together.  Veneered plywood is just very nice wood usually a more expensive one glued on the outside as the last layer. it's a 'cheap' way to make more valuable wood stretch farther.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also just buy 'veneer' which is that last layer cut ultra thin, and rolled up.  You can use that to veneer any other wood to make it look better or at least like a more expensive piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2023-03-07T20:50:35.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14477" CreationDate="2023-03-07T23:44:25.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First a bit of foundation to answer upon:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sheet stock is manufactured flat material consisting of a thicker layer of common wood called a &amp;quot;substrate&amp;quot; and at least one and very often both sides covered by thin layers of fancier wood or plastic called &amp;quot;veneer&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The substrate can be multiple layers of wood turned 90 degrees each layer and glued together. This kind of substrate is called &amp;quot;plywood&amp;quot;. Or it can be ground-up wood sawdust with resin glue and called particle board. If the sawdust is ground to very fine dusty particles, then glued with resin, it's called &amp;quot;fiberboard&amp;quot;: medium density grinding makes the substrate called MDF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Wood veneer&amp;quot; is the outside layer of a piece of sheet stock that is very often a high-quality but thin sheet of wood glued over the substrate. It can be stain-grade oak, cherry, ash, walnut, mahogany, etc. Or it can be paint-grade poplar, birch, etc. Other forms of veneer could be metal, like aluminum, or plastic, like melamine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So &amp;quot;wood veneer&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;plywood&amp;quot; don't compare: they are two different parts of the sheet stock. &amp;quot;Plywood&amp;quot; is one of the different kinds of middle of the sheet stock. &amp;quot;Wood veneer&amp;quot; is one of the kinds of outside layers of the sheet stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13061" LastActivityDate="2023-03-07T23:44:25.017" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14477" CreationDate="2023-03-08T07:33:32.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both wood veneer and plywood both use layers of nautral wood stuck to engineered wood. What is then the difference between them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;veneer&lt;/em&gt; is a thin sheet of material used to cover something, usually for decoration. In a woodworking context, we usually talk about veneer made from wood. Veneers can be cut on a band saw, &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/yIk_eZvyefE?t=162&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sliced paper thin&lt;/a&gt; by a very sharp knife, or &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/GuS5c50cVHs?t=120&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;peeled from a log&lt;/a&gt; on a veneer lathe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plywood is an engineered wood product made from a stack of thin sheets of wood, often called plies, which are glued together. The plies are arranged so that the grain in each layer is oriented crosswise to the layer before it, and this gives plywood stability and strength. The outermost layers may be decorative veneers, or not, depending on the intended use of the plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2023-03-08T07:33:32.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14474" CreationDate="2023-03-08T07:56:29.297" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of the (few) soft-close hinges I've interacted with there was definitely resistance to overcome when opening — more than the free-swinging action of a simple butt hinge for example, but not enough to be immediately noticeable versus more standard cabinet hinges (which have been nearly ubiquitous where I live for the past 40 years).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are multiple manufacturers of numerous soft-close hinges; the most popular seemingly falling into two types, one with an overlaying piston or other mechanism (such as in Blumotion from Blum) versus other designs with a spring-loaded damper inside a portion of the hinge body itself:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6m4BQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6m4BQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Soft-close hinges, two main types?&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it goes without saying that individual hinge designs will have slightly different opening resistance, in the same way they have slightly different soft-closing speeds, and while there may be some numbers out there I've been unable to find any (although there are multiple references to &amp;quot;minimal opening resistance&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;low opening resistance&amp;quot; which does confirm the impression that there is &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, unless you can measure the opening resistance to a set of hinges in a showroom or somewhere, I think you will just have to buy a sample hinge or pair and just try it and see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-03-08T07:56:29.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6800" CreationDate="2023-03-09T14:41:31.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Love it.   We have the same floor.  We decided to just love it. Too much love and work went in to installing this floor.  We’ve redone them twice and it was a JOB.  So now i randomly paint bare spots w watered down paint or add stain. We get lots of compliments on its beauty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13064" LastActivityDate="2023-03-09T14:41:31.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14484" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14488" CreationDate="2023-03-09T12:07:17.480" Score="2" ViewCount="190" Body="&lt;p&gt;The project is to renew these handrails, but I found it hard to figure out which type of finish this is. I sanded a part of wood, tried various finishes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Interior wood varnishes (all kinds: gloss, satin and matt)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wipe-on wood dye + clear wax&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But none of those turned out to be even close to this. Can anybody help determining it from the photos please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pCW3F.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pCW3F.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Noda2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Noda2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ehuwz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ehuwz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13071" OwnerDisplayName="Daniel Vartanov" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-03-09T14:58:39.767" LastActivityDate="2023-03-09T15:49:37.870" Title="Help IDing what the type of wood finish this is" Tags="|finishing|finish-selection|refinishing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14484" CreationDate="2023-03-09T12:21:05.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Matching finishes is extremally difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like that may have had an old treatment called FauxFinish.&#xA;That was used over some stained or painted wood to mimic a different wood grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was often used in older homes to simulate a better quality of wood than actually existed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to get a good finish is to sand it all down to bare wood and start over.  The handrail looks like it needs a sanding anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An option would be to paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tough situation, my sympathies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="RMDman" LastActivityDate="2023-03-09T12:21:05.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14484" CreationDate="2023-03-09T13:44:18.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like an &lt;strong&gt;orange shellac&lt;/strong&gt; from here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See if it happens to be soluble in alcohol to confirm/deny. Very easy to strip with denatured alcohol if it is shellac - or you can redistribute it with alcohol, but best to clean it well first, or you'll be binding in all the accumulated dirt, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3334" OwnerDisplayName="Ecnerwal" LastActivityDate="2023-03-09T14:01:05.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14484" CreationDate="2023-03-09T15:49:37.870" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anybody help determining it from the photos please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry but it's impossible to identify finishes from appearance only. It can be hard to ID them in the flesh!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One can make guesses&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; based on various clues (including the age of something or the date of the last refinish) but for a thin coloured finish any of around 4-6 options&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; are possible and could give very similar results — similar enough that you couldn't tell for sure what had been used in a blind test. Which is why I'm surprised none of the varnishes you tried came even close, but maybe you just didn't have the right colour to hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it is &lt;em&gt;the colour&lt;/em&gt; that is the most critical thing to match, not the type of finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Finish type doesn't matter&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Within reason, the type of finish you use doesn't matter when all you're trying to do is match the appearance. So for example you can retouch old varnished or shellacked pieces with varnish, &amp;quot;gel stain&amp;quot;, shellac or lacquer and nobody would know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Consider a complete refinish&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I know renewing the handrails is what you want to do or have been asked to do but consider refinishing the whole balustrade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was not finished to a high standard initially anyway (I hope it was a DIY job and no professional was responsible for it!), and the surface is a bit tired and worn all over, with dings, scrapes and what looks like some flaking, so all of it could do with having new finish applied. And of course this option neatly sidesteps the issue of colour matching :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is out of the question, then....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Deliberately don't try to match the colour&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;There are few things that look worse than a poor attempt at a colour match on a portion of something, with the rest right there to highlight that the colour is off somehow&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So instead deliberately make the handrails darker or lighter. There is already much precedent for this as a decorating theme, with handrails sometimes stained much darker (possibly initially to help hide wear or grime, and then it became a style), or painted darker (up to black) or lighter (all the way to white):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W2YEg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W2YEg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Handrail colour options&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;em&gt;You&lt;/em&gt; can investigate further by trying solubility tests (one of the few ways one can distinguish some finishes from others) but as outlined above, this isn't actually necessary so I don't think there's any point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Not a comprehensive list: pigmented oil-based varnish, oil-based varnish coloured with dye, pigmented waterbased varnish, waterbased varnish coloured with dye, &amp;quot;gel stain&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; And there are multiple ways to be off, slightly too yellow/orange, slightly too red, slightly too brown, just the right hue but too dark, &lt;em&gt;or a combination&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-03-09T15:49:37.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14490" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-11T19:51:51.283" Score="2" ViewCount="1704" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m completely new to all of this but have researched as much as I can in the last couple months. Please bear with me if I sound uninformed. I’m definitely willing to learn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got a cheap mango wood desk/console table that appeared to have been finished with poly-something over the bare wood. I like the desk and thought it a good piece for learning as I go before trying other projects. It’s not so important to me that I can’t make mistakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I stripped the clear finish off using Citristrip. I know that’s far from the best choice but I’m in an apartment and was concerned about fumes. The Citristrip seems to have done a decent job of removing whatever the clear finish was, but I was interrupted before I was satisfied, and I know there are some spots of it left. I also think just because it’s Citristrip, the wood really needs to be prepared with something to get all residue off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the inside of the desk there are two areas where there was no finish at all where I sanded to 180, and tried out some water based stain. I’d like to try staining the whole piece with this and then follow with a finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That’s the background for my question. I think mineral spirits are usually recommended to clean off strippers as well as to highlight where some finish might remain, but mineral spirits are not for use before a water based stain. Would I be okay to use something else—maybe denatured alcohol? Or use the mineral spirits, then wash that off when I’m done? I realize Citristrip is not a preferred stripper, and I don’t want to use it again due to the mess it created, but for now, this is what I’ve got.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13073" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-03-11T22:38:44.910" LastActivityDate="2023-03-11T22:38:44.910" Title="Can I use mineral spirits to clean off stripper prior to water based stain, if I clean off the mineral spirits?" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14490" CreationDate="2023-03-11T22:36:11.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The citristrip seems to have done a decent job of removing whatever the clear finish was, but I was interrupted before I was satisfied, and I know there are some spots of it left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to there being some Citristrip residue you know you need to deal with, it is vital to check there's no finish residue as you refer to later. It seems to be one of the least-mentioned bits of stripping advice but it's a cornerstone of finish removal that one should never expect stripper (even one much stronger/more efficient than Citristrip) to get every trace of finish off in a single application. You might get lucky and one treatment does it, but never &lt;em&gt;expect&lt;/em&gt; it (even on pieces where the finish appears to be thin and is in poor condition — worn through in areas, weakened by age, cleaning, light exposure, all of the above.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think mineral spirits are usually recommended to clean off strippers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what do Citristrip's instructions say to use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As always with generic advice it can be of little help when it comes to specifics. And I know/know of many users who would not use mineral spirits &lt;em&gt;regardless of the stripper used&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as well as to highlight where some finish might remain&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yup, but actually any clear liquid will do the same — water, isopropanol, vodka (not kidding), denatured alcohol (UK: methylated spirits), xylene or naphtha, acetone or lacquer thinner (UK: cellulose thinners). Someone out there will make use of one of these for this purpose, depending on personal preference and sometimes just what is most conveniently at hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but mineral spirits are not for use before a water based stain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; use mineral spirits before a waterbased stain, but you will have an easier time if you use something else. In addition to not having to worry about beading, you'll be able to proceed much faster so win-win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;denatured alcohol?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes that would have been what I would have suggested you try first anyway since it will probably work well to lift Citristrip residue without being overly toxic, plus it's relatively cheap and widely available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you're sure you've removed all the residue you'll probably need to sand a bit (this is normal) and it would be best to do this fairly uniformly over the entire piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And after that I recommend you also wipe down with water. You can do this as a final check for finish residue, but when using a waterbased stain it's advisable to dampen the wood beforehand to pre-raise the grain anyway&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don’t want to use it again due to the mess it created&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not that I particularly want to defend Citristrip (I have specific reservations about it, and other similar strippers) but to be fair &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; stripping is inherently a messy, dirty business. However, if good procedures are adopted&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; dealing with the mess can be relatively painless..... at least on flat surfaces, carved work and detailed spindles/turnings are a different story LOL&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; For various reasons, e.g. because of the smell, preferring to use something that evaporates faster, wanting to use something that stands a chance of further dissolving any remaining traces of finish clinging to the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; You then &lt;em&gt;lightly&lt;/em&gt; sand before staining; you're looking to sand off the raised grain only, that's it. Resist the temptation to sand any more than that!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Including not letting the stripper dry on the surface, wetting it again if it did dry out anywhere, scraping off the bulk of the sludge and using stiff brushes for inside corners and other tight spots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-03-11T22:36:11.980" CommentCount="27" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4068" CreationDate="2023-03-12T01:23:59.450" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I too have suffered the dreaded tear out. Here's the best I've been able to create for that Emmy winning joint using my Rockler jig. I place a backer on both the front and back of my primary pieces, using something slightly harder, i.e., not a thin particle board, since it flaps too much (in slow motion, you can see it). I use scraps of the same ply material, yes, even Baltic birch ply. You can use the same scraps for a couple passes(sometimes), but you must replace each backer when it gets too frail (maybe 2-3 passes). Make sure to use similar backers for similar cuts and similar bits...No trading off, or you will get frayed edges. It's not necessary to discuss the 'sharp tool' talk, that's a given. However, always make sure your pieces and backers are stacked and lined up and are at same elevation. I assure you that you will get a 'Golden Globe' cut every time. (...and that little bit of peach fuzz sands off to a beautiful, nearly commercial finish!!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13074" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2023-03-12T14:56:02.760" LastActivityDate="2023-03-12T14:56:02.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14495" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-14T15:12:54.923" Score="0" ViewCount="111" Body="&lt;p&gt;My daughter just bought the cabinet online and it came like this.  They won’t refund or replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas of how to get the stains off the caning of the doors? We think it’s glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F0CWH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F0CWH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13083" LastEditorUserId="64" LastEditDate="2023-06-11T06:34:27.183" LastActivityDate="2023-06-11T06:34:27.183" Title="Possible glue staining on cabinet doors with cane webbing, need advice" Tags="|glue|clean-up|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="349" CreationDate="2023-03-14T15:34:44.073" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In case this comes up again, go ahead and cut the SIDES down 1/8&amp;quot; to 1/4&amp;quot; but either leave the BACK just short of the top or put a small shim kicker near the back... even if the back sticks and needs adjustment later, you can still tip the front of the drawer up enough to get it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13084" LastActivityDate="2023-03-14T15:34:44.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14495" CreationDate="2023-03-14T16:47:38.347" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas of how to get the stains off the caning of the doors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think we can answer that with any confidence without at least knowing more about the stain. If it's glue, what kind of glue is it? Is the stain just a discoloration caused by the glue itself, or is there dirt or other material stuck to the glue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to proceed will depend on how much you value the cabinet. If it wasn't very expensive and you're willing to take some risks, you could try cleaning it yourself starting with the gentlest options you can think of (maybe a bit of distilled water and a cotton swab) in an inconspicuous area, and working your way up from there. On the other hand, if your daughter paid a lot for the cabinet, or just wants to be very careful with it, it might be best to take it to a professional furniture restorer. A pro will be able to look at the damage up close and suggest options appropriate for the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One option, other than cleaning, might be to replace the caning entirely. It's not hard to find &amp;quot;cane webbing&amp;quot; for sale online, typically from chair restoration suppliers. Cane webbing comes in sheets that can be cut to size. You'll have to look at the doors of the cabinet to see how it's secured -- it looks like the spline that surrounds each panel might be pressed into a groove to secure the webbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2023-03-14T16:47:38.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14495" CreationDate="2023-03-14T18:13:08.100" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The following is based on the assumption you do decide to try cleaning this off using solvent. I'm not actually confident this is the best approach however it's your call.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously not your fault, but since you can't tell us what glue this is (if it is even glue) we have to proceed on guesswork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Assuming glue&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;So let's say it is glue, there is one type that is most likely — PVA, white or yellow &amp;quot;carpenter's glue&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;wood glue&amp;quot; — and the good news with that is there's tons of experience of dealing with residue of this adhesive to draw from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you research this online you will read that vinegar can dissolve or help to remove non-waterproof versions of PVA. I would not suggest trying that here for a couple of reasons, the first being that vinegar is mostly water and water + canework can be problematical. It's all too easy to end up with a panel that is permanently slack, or buckled in just one area and neither is a good look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So solvents without water are I think the safest approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Organic solvents&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The one to try first will be denatured alcohol (UK: methylated spirits). Work slowly and carefully, using Q-tips or cotton balls, and ventilate the area well if you have concerns about the solvent vapours&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this works the process might be quite straightforward or go surprisingly quickly! But if the alcohol has little to no effect, next try acetone which is a noticeably stronger solvent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acetone is very straightforward to buy if you live in the US, it'll generally be sold right alongside denatured alcohol. If you don't live in the US however you may not be able to walk into any hardware store or big-box and get it, in which case it's the main or sole ingredient in many nail-polish removers. But if you buy it in this form check the ingredients list to make sure it doesn't contain any water&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;; &amp;quot;artificial nail and tip remover&amp;quot; tends to be pure acetone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; you will have to be very very careful not to get either solvent on the painted surfaces because there's no telling what will dissolve or partially dissolve the paint (leading to ugly marks like when polish remover is spilled on any finished surface) and that would be even harder to fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you can't be careful enough not to spill even one drop (DAMHIK!) it would be advisable to carefully mask around each opening with plenty of masking tape/painter's tape. Don't skimp on the tape, and burnish the edges down well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before that however....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Consider taking the doors off before you begin&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This is not vital, but working on the doors flat offers advantages, including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you can more easily back up the canework to prevent it buckling from pressure;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; easier to avoid any solvent drips getting to the paintwork.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should be obvious but makes sure whatever you back the canework with doesn't care about solvents, which you might arrange by e.g. wrapping it in aluminium foil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take care loosening any screws, &lt;em&gt;especially&lt;/em&gt; if they have Phillips heads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll want to bag the screws up or put them into a magnetic tray or something, whatever you need to do so that you don't lose track of one of them&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take even more care putting the screws back in! You don't want to cross-thread, or over-tighten (especially if the sides are particleboard/chipboard or MDF). While it is possible to successfully repair damaged screw holes prevention is definitely better than cure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Arrange airflow so it goes past the person doing the work, over the workpiece and then out an open door or window.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Which might be listed as &amp;quot;aqua&amp;quot; these days...... because they don't want us to know we're buying water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; All too easy if life gets in the way and this turns out not to be a one-afternoon job. Again DAMHIK :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-03-14T18:13:08.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14500" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-17T01:05:12.827" Score="2" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am very new to woodworking and am taking a beginner woodworking class. I've made a few basic projects, and decided to try to make a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/saturday-morning-workshop-how-to-build-a-nelson-platform-bench/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;George Nelson style bench&lt;/a&gt;. It seemed like something that would push my skills a lot, but be manageable, because there are a lot of tutorials and plans for it out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem I'm having is with cutting the half-lap joints using a dado stack on the table saw. It cuts through the plywood fence I attached to the miter gauge fine, but when I tried to make the cuts on a scrap piece of maple, it was really hard to keep a steady hold on the piece; it vibrated a lot and basically pulled out of my hand. I'm wondering if that means something is wrong, or it just means I need to clamp the piece to the fence before I make the cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm asking because I watched a bunch of tutorial videos (like this one: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uc1iS30Wg6Y&amp;amp;t=263s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uc1iS30Wg6Y&amp;amp;t=263s&lt;/a&gt;) where it looks like they have absolutely no problem keeping the piece steady.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the stack's blades not sharp enough? Is it a signal that something is incorrect in the dado stack, or just something that happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13096" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-03-19T09:56:36.917" LastActivityDate="2023-03-20T05:02:44.990" Title="Using a dado stack to cut lap joints, but wood is vibrating a lot and hard to control" Tags="|joinery|table-saw|dado-stack|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14501" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-17T17:44:46.907" Score="-1" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am just getting into woodworking. My garage is the only place I can set up a workshop. The weather in my area ranges from cold winters to hot, humid summers. I'm concerned about rust developing on tools (table saw, jointer,...). Should I be concerned? Do woodworkers take steps to prevent rust, or are the tools already &amp;quot;rust-proof&amp;quot; (assuming I'm not going to leave a glass of ice water sitting on something for days)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13087" LastActivityDate="2023-03-20T13:47:57.613" Title="Concerns about rust in garage workshop" Tags="|table-saw|tool-maintenance|rust|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2023-03-20T13:40:26.870" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14500" CreationDate="2023-03-20T05:02:44.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it was really hard to keep a steady hold on the piece; it vibrated a lot and basically pulled out of my hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on that, my first guess would be that you've got one or more of the blades installed backwards. It's extremely important to make sure that both the outer blades and the chippers are installed correctly. To help you out, the outer blades will typically indicate the direction of rotation. Also, the outer blades usually have some sort of printing on one side, and that side should face outward. Take a look at the direction of the teeth on the outer blades, and make sure that the teeth on the inner blades (the chippers) face in the same direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to do the full 3/4 inch cut in one go so that all of the depths are consistent, and the tutorials don't seem to have a problem cutting that much at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That normally isn't a problem, but do keep in mind that the folks in the videos you're watching may have different saws and different dado stacks. Even so, if the problem were that you're taking too big a bite at once, your saw would normally just slow down; it wouldn't vibrate or pull the workpiece out of your hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2023-03-20T05:02:44.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14501" CreationDate="2023-03-20T05:21:11.020" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm concerned about rust developing on tools (table saw, jointer,...). Should I be concerned?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes.&lt;/strong&gt; Preventing rust is a constant battle in some climates. The combination of humid air and large swings in temperature make it easy for moisture to condense on cold surfaces such as cast iron tables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do woodworkers take steps to prevent rust&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes,&lt;/strong&gt; many do; preventing rust a frequent topic of discussion and debate in woodworking forums. There are many strategies for combatting rust. The best (IMO) is to set up your shop in a space with climate control, thus avoiding large changes in both temperature and humidity. If that's not possible, other ways to prevent rust are to cover the most rust-prone surfaces or to coat them with something. Some people use moving blankets or magnetic covers to minimize contact with moist air when the tools aren't being used. There are a variety of possible coatings, but one of the most popular is some form of wax. Paste wax and sprays containing wax can work; avoid automotive waxes that contain silicone. There are about as many opinions as to which method/product is best as there are woodworkers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2023-03-20T13:47:57.613" LastActivityDate="2023-03-20T13:47:57.613" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14504" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14505" CreationDate="2023-03-20T16:48:13.873" Score="4" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to build a standing shelf that will stand on my desk around my PC monitors and want to be able to stand my PC case on top of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on using 28mm solid pine boards.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The shelf dimensions will be 1400mm wide, 400mm deep.&#xA;The &amp;quot;legs&amp;quot; will be 650mm high, 350mm deep and be placed 72mm from the outside edge to create a 1300mm distance between them.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The brace on the back will be 200mm high and 22mm from the back edge.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Below is the design I made using CAD software from various angles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using this design is the brace on the back of sufficient size to prevent lateral movement or should it be taller?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;And if not how tall should it be?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Should it be offset further &amp;quot;inwards&amp;quot; or will it provide sufficient support at the current position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the overall design be strong enough to support 50kg? (About 110 pounds.)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;And if not, how/what support could I add that it will support such a load?&#xA;Or if it's not possible to answer is there a calculator or something I can use to calculate the possible loads and/or deflection?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perspective view:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x0fzG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x0fzG.png&quot; alt=&quot;Perspective&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Front view:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0AeB0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0AeB0.png&quot; alt=&quot;Front&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Top view:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OQLWb.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OQLWb.png&quot; alt=&quot;Top&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Back view:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gNy08.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gNy08.png&quot; alt=&quot;Back&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Side view:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2zxLw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2zxLw.png&quot; alt=&quot;Side&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13109" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-03-20T17:31:49.820" LastActivityDate="2023-03-20T17:54:34.573" Title="Standing shelf design advice" Tags="|design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14504" CreationDate="2023-03-20T17:54:34.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using this design is the brace on the back of sufficient size to prevent lateral movement or should it be taller?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;And if not how tall should it be?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Should it be offset further &amp;quot;inwards&amp;quot; or will it provide sufficient support at the current position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's almost certainly fine, in all respects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the overall design be strong enough to support 50kg? (About 110 pounds.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. Even without support the shelf would nearly be strong enough for a distributed load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if not, how/what support could I add that it will support such a load?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your &amp;quot;brace&amp;quot; (rail, q.v. rails and stiles on tables) acts like a beam and just like the rails on tables will support the top and prevent or greatly lessen sagging under load. Some shelves in bookcases have similar rails, or strengthening edging/lips at the front, for the same purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your rail is more than sufficient for the expected load, even if all the weight were placed right in the centre, because in order for the shelf to bow &lt;em&gt;at all&lt;/em&gt; it would have to bend the rail board sideways, or tear it free from the legs which is essentially impossible — build it right and without any change to the pieces you could use this as a seat for two!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is there a calculator or something I can use to calculate the possible loads and/or deflection?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is, the much-linked-to &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Sagulator&lt;/a&gt; :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use with caution though — I would suggest &lt;em&gt;greatly&lt;/em&gt; exaggerating loads (I often double, and sometimes triple!) any time you have the least doubt about the strength to give a wide margin for error, mainly because of variations in material strength (wood varies, &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt;). But beyond that, look at the design of existing furniture that you see (especially older pieces) and plans in books and magazines, to give an idea of what is considered sufficiently strong in real-world applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-03-20T17:54:34.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14507" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-22T03:03:46.347" Score="1" ViewCount="53" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working with some local wood in Malaysia (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wood-database.com/nyatoh/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nyatoh&lt;/a&gt;) to make a small table top. Each 4” piece is slightly out of square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to join the 4 boards together bending them so that they are aligned and then square the entire table top, or should I square each piece before joining?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was planning to clamp the wood with 4 way pressure when joining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13116" LastEditorUserId="32" LastEditDate="2023-03-23T10:09:45.360" LastActivityDate="2023-03-23T10:09:45.360" Title="Panel joining boards" Tags="|panel|square|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9682" CreationDate="2023-03-23T20:25:18.003" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is late, but I have a lot of experience to share on the topic. I have a 12 x 14 basement shop(actually has a pullout sofa taking up valuable space) and neighbors who complain about EVERYTHING. The problem is the neighbor doesn’t just complain, they rally other neighbors to generate a consensus anytime they have a problem with my existence. I’m an affable guy who volunteers to improve my neighborly duties and ask for open dialogue should anyone have an issue. Still, they ignore this and once a year gang up on me with a complaint or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basement tool noise will NOT be the next issue! I don’t have a fancy space at all. I have stones set into concrete as a floor (60s style), a drop ceiling and drywall. The outside walls are cinder blocks covered by super thing sheetrock. There is one small basement window just at ground level and it has an aluminum retaining ring just outside the window.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can imagine, the window is a big amplifier of noise. It will rattle and vibrate when sound waves hit it and the aluminum retaining ring outside acts like a steel drum to direct sound up against my siding and against the neighbors wooden fence. The first thing to do is make sure I limit the magnification of sound waves in the shop. High frequency tools in high decibel ranges will create aggressive sound waves (like VVVVVVV as opposed to ~~~~~~). So the first thing I recommend everyone doing is cover your shop floor in mass loaded vinyl sheeting. It’s not cheap, but a lot of shop noise comes from bouncing waves off concrete floors or wooden echo chambers built on concrete. Laying mass loaded vinyl and then ideally another rubber or vinyl floor surface for cleaning ease and comfort. This will already dull the cacophony of sound in a small shop. Next put an anti-vibration pad under your machines when possible, including those on your benches. It makes a 3-5 decibel difference with most setups. Next, this part depends on how quiet you want your setup and what you can afford to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like to work in the shop late at night. It’s a therapeutic activity for anyone who can’t sleep well due to PTSD or whatever. I lined my ceiling and walls with Dekiru Hexagonal acoustic panels. They look great and you can make some impressive designs. It’s pretty awesome when your shop looks like a recording studio or a high-end YouTube channel. What is even better is the quietness of it. Your tools are still loud and you still need to wear ear protection! But outside of the shop is muffled very much, to the point that my wife sleeps soundly directly above my shop while I’m using a table saw and running dust collectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A detail on windows, doors and dust. I made a hinged drop-down soundproof cover for my window for when I’m working at night. During the day I don’t worry about it unless the neighbor has a pool party going. Hollow doors are basically speakers for your tools. If you have a hollow door you need a sound deadening blanket (film/Hollywood studio blankets are $30-40) to hang over the inside of the door. If you put your dust collector in a closet, which I recommend, line the closet and the door on both sides with acoustic panels. You need a vent cut into the door or closet, but use acoustic sealant around the vent/register. I also like to make an angled hood to direct the sound and air down as it exits or enters the closet. I just use foam core hobby board and sealant to make this deflector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without these measures, your tools work in concert to create chaotic and aggressive frequencies which have multiplied from the origins at the tools themselves. As they bounce around they increase upon impacting each other with greater and greater frequency(more often). By adding the mass loaded vinyl on the floor and acoustic panels around the room, the waves are partially absorbed or retarded before continuing on their journey. This keeps the sound from getting out of control. My shop is at 71 decibels with a 1.5hp dust collector in the closet, a WEN air filtration unit hanging above my head, and one tool running. I COULD skip hearing protection for most tools (some run at 95-100 decibels, like a table saw) but it’s still not pleasant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My final recommendation is buy a quality set of Bluetooth hearing protection. IsoTunes Link 2.0 is fantastic with the addition of a boom microphone option. It lowers shop sound by 25 decibels and can play your music, podcast, YouTube instructional video, or phone call. The mic actually cuts high frequency shop noise and boosts your voice pretty well. I just had a phone call with my boss while using a power sander. They also make a smaller earbud style if you prefer or are wearing a full head mask. It’s the IsoTunes Pro 2.0, and it’s a few bucks more. It’s also 2dba quieter to boot!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those curious, 3 feet from my closed shop door reads 44 dba while I’m running my table saw. My furnace is louder than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck to you all. Just make sure your dust collection is excellent if your are sealing your studio for sound. Make sure those air filtration units and dust collectors are on timers and run for at least 30 mins after you leave. It takes 30 minutes for 2 micron dust particles to settle to the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13125" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2023-03-24T16:45:38.527" LastActivityDate="2023-03-24T16:45:38.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14510" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-23T23:04:59.190" Score="1" ViewCount="309" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend has asked me to repair a Victorian era walking stick that is made up of screwed sections. The screws are brass; the wood must presumably be hardwood although it is pale in colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brass fittings screw directly into the wood - there is no brass inset to receive them. Here are some photos. Edit - the brass female fittings exist and they are intended to be glued into the wood. When I receive the piece, I didn't detect that fact because the male and female parts were tightly screwed together. I now realise that I have to glue the female fitting into the wood so that the male fitting screws into that. It's going to make it easier because I can clamp around the screwed-in fitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/thrqx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/thrqx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan is simply to glue, clamp and leave until dry. I shall have to use commercially available wood glue and am based in the UK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This a walking stick so (a) it must withstand someone leaning on it and (2) the glue must be weatherproof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please advise me what type of glue to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1320" LastEditorUserId="1320" LastEditDate="2023-03-24T22:11:22.857" LastActivityDate="2023-03-31T03:41:33.040" Title="Repair of antique walking stick. What glue is best?" Tags="|wood-repair|gluing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14511" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-24T05:34:54.553" Score="2" ViewCount="303" Body="&lt;p&gt;I inherited a c. 1920s dining room table and chairs that my mom grew up with. We’ve stripped, repainted, replaced screws and re-glued them twice. The only problem is that the chair legs wiggle and eventually become unstable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some more robust approach to making these chairs more sturdy and less prone to wiggling apart? It is okay if it involves additional wood or hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pictures of the chair below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vk2NY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vk2NY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;chair frame looking from below&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nKvmv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nKvmv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;up close view of joint from below &quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2ssCY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2ssCY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;up close view of joint from above&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13126" LastActivityDate="2023-03-24T05:34:54.553" Title="How can I reinforce wooden chair" Tags="|furniture|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14510" CreationDate="2023-03-27T05:58:28.543" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally to repair a simple split like this in wood that will go together so neatly I would suggest a PVA adhesive (e.g. Evo-Stik blue, or Everbuild 502) because of the easy water cleanup of excess glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there are some problems with using PVA here. With waterbased glues only fresh surfaces bond properly due to &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C55Tu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this effect&lt;/a&gt; and because you don't have easy access to the crack surfaces you can't do much to reliably refresh them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I think the adhesive of choice becomes epoxy, despite it being a little trickier to work with in this situation. Epoxy offers two main advantages, it seems to more reliably bond old wood surfaces and also it doesn't require the very high clamp pressures that PVA does to achieve its strongest bond. Additionally if you need to glue the brass into the wood it allows you to do the whole job with the one adhesive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you're going to want a use an epoxy with a long working time for a comfortable, stress-free glue-up, so regrettably inexpensive 5-min is out. Even 10 minutes may not be enough so I'd recommend 30-min epoxy at minimum. Other than cost there's no downside to using an epoxy that sets slower than that if it's all you can find as I would recommend leaving the glue to set for a day at least regardless&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some quick tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I think the ideal 'clamp' here isn't a clamp at all, but tape. Electrical tape is great for this kind of job because it has some give and resists snapping so you can stretch it tightly as you wind it on, each wind applying more and more pressure. Work from the narrow end of the crack towards the open end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Don't disturb the stick as the glue is setting&lt;/em&gt;. Even a slight shift can significantly impact bond strength. So after you've finished glueing put the stick where it won't need to be moved out of the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Additional stuff I'd recommend: gloves so you don't get epoxy on your skin; a screwdriver for leverage; a hair dryer&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Apply the glue. Be liberal but don't go crazy. You want to get it into the entire crack, which is what the screwdriver is for — &lt;em&gt;gently&lt;/em&gt; lever the stick apart to open up the crack a smidge so you can get glue as far into the narrow end as possible. With local warming it should seep in well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Now close the crack and squeeze the stick firmly. Excess glue will squeeze out. Wipe off. Squeeze again and wipe again and then it's time for the tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; The epoxy's full strength may only be achieved after 24 hours or longer &lt;em&gt;at normal room temperature&lt;/em&gt; (slower if cold), so don't go testing the bonds the following morning!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Use the hair dryer to warm the wood, &lt;em&gt;not the epoxy.&lt;/em&gt; You'll be amazed at how the epoxy becomes more fluid once it touches the warmed surface, allowing it to spread and penetrate a lot more easily. If you warm the puddle of mixed epoxy it makes it too fluid to transfer easily, and significantly shortens the working time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-03-27T05:58:28.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14514" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-28T18:41:52.143" Score="1" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;Update: I went back to store and they told I will need to by plugs for corners. I returned these skirtings and now back to regular skirtings which work with miter and coping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using this skirting: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kwantum.nl/plint-wit-eiken-0392535&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.kwantum.nl/plint-wit-eiken-0392535&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I cannot figure how to do inside or outside corners on this. Due to the peculiar back profile, typical 45 degree cuts are not really working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: based on comments -&#xA;If text is not clear enough, there are images of couple of rough cuts I did. I hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a mitre gauge from Wolfcraft - this one - &lt;a href=&quot;https://m.media-amazon.com/images/W/IMAGERENDERING_521856-T1/images/I/610EXfqhQVL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://m.media-amazon.com/images/W/IMAGERENDERING_521856-T1/images/I/610EXfqhQVL.jpg&lt;/a&gt; with accompanying saw and a jigsaw. I do not have a coping miter saw at the moment. The problem I am facing is non-flat back profile on the plinten. That is making the angle calculation a bit tricky. These also lay at an angle to the wall from front so I would always end up with an upside down V like opening on outer corners. A little geometry application revealed that the bottom edge (one of the floor), may never intersect at the point in same vertical plane as the corner edge of the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, a little more digging around and I found that there are plugs for the corners which are needed for some skirtings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SXrkf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SXrkf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Skirting 1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lcjes.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lcjes.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Skirting 2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13140" LastEditorUserId="13140" LastEditDate="2023-03-29T12:12:04.607" LastActivityDate="2023-03-29T12:12:04.607" Title="Problem cutting corner joints on specific skirting boards" Tags="|miter-joint|mitre|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14514" CreationDate="2023-03-29T07:54:33.693" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As alluded to in the comments, the right way to do internal corners is not to mitre, but to cut one piece square, and then scribe the profile onto the other piece, and cut it away.  When shrinkage/movement causes the two pieces to separate, the resulting gap is much less noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For external corners, you have no alternative but to mitre.  I think the solution is to clamp the skirting to a vertical piece of board (possibly held vertical by being screwed to a block of wood), and then cut the mitre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, if you are cutting with a circular saw, set it to the right angle, and place the saw on the &lt;em&gt;back&lt;/em&gt; of the skirting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the edited question with pictures, I think the problem is that you are cutting a 45-degree angle where you measure the angle &lt;em&gt;from the front&lt;/em&gt;.  You absolutely have to use (the top of) the &lt;em&gt;back&lt;/em&gt; of the skirting as the reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1646" LastEditorUserId="1646" LastEditDate="2023-03-29T10:04:16.190" LastActivityDate="2023-03-29T10:04:16.190" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14518" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-31T12:27:25.153" Score="1" ViewCount="249" Body="&lt;p&gt;I applied iron-on edge banding to the edges of a piece of veneered MDF. The edge banding and the veneer on the MDF are both walnut. The adhesive on the back of the edge banding is white and is quite visible against the dark walnut. I'm not planning on staining before applying finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions for how to hide the adhesive line?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12397" LastActivityDate="2023-03-31T15:23:20.243" Title="Is there a way to hide the adhesive line from iron-on edge banding" Tags="|edge-banding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14518" CreationDate="2023-03-31T15:23:20.243" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions for how to hide the adhesive line?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the banding is thick enough, you could use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/inlay-and-veneering-tools/69874-veritas-string-inlay-tool-system&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;string inlay tool&lt;/a&gt; to cut a narrow groove where the adhesive is. Then inlay some stringing (very thin strips of wood) to fill the groove. You could use more walnut if you just want to get rid of the line -- the stringing should mostly disappear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2023-03-31T15:23:20.243" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14520" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14521" CreationDate="2023-03-31T15:52:20.487" Score="1" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have discovered that all the desks I own are chipboard. However, on the surface they look like real wood. I conclude that something has been stuck on the suface using glue to give this impression and this something is think like paper and it is certainly not actual wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is stuck on chipboard to give impression of real wood? Where can I buy this material and stick it on projects I make myself using chipboard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12943" LastActivityDate="2023-03-31T17:07:07.037" Title="What is stuck on chipboard to give wood appearance in flatpack furniture?" Tags="|finishing|chipboard|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14520" CreationDate="2023-03-31T17:07:07.037" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a plastic veneer. Often referred to by the name &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Melamine_resin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Melamine&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; (probably even when it isn't actually melamine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some laminates may be white melamine with a wood grain pattern printed on it, others may be other plastic materials with a wood grain printed on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy sheets of melamine at many big-box home improvement stores or, likely, at smaller woodworking specialty stores or lumber yard. At those specialty stores, you might also consider buying real wood veneer which you could also adhere to your chipboard to make it look like real wood (because you would actually have a thin layer of real wood on it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go for real wood veneers, you could purchase them in many different species (online retailers may have a larger selection than your local store, but your local lumber yard will probably be more than happy to help you select the species that you like the best and to order some in for you if they don't have it in stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, by using real wood veneer, you have your choice of how to finish it, using different colored stains as desired, and a variety of different top coats from shellac to polyurethane, depending on your desires and the use case for each individual piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2023-03-31T17:07:07.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14522" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-31T19:06:40.240" Score="1" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;Im working on a “control panel” made out of 3/16” acrylic with several small cutouts in it for gauges, displays etc. Overall the piece is about 20” by 7”. In the past I have cut the acrylic to size using my Bosch plunge router and guides, and either made templates or set up straight guides to do the cutouts and ensure perfectly square/straight lines. To do this more efficiently I thought I would try a router table, so I picked up the Bosch RA1181. Having never used the table before, I wanted to be clear on general safety. One of the things I’ve read is you should never have your work piece sandwiched between the fence and bit. I was planning on doing just that to “rip” the acrylic to size (ie set fence at 7” to cut the overall rectangle from a larger piece of acrylic), and again have a portion of the acrylic between the bit and fence as I wanted to use the fence as my straight edge to make the cutouts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess what I’m wondering is, whether the router table is the right tool for this job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10453" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-03-31T23:22:16.260" LastActivityDate="2023-04-01T06:39:25.667" Title="Router Table - Ripping and Inside Cutouts" Tags="|router|router-table|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14522" CreationDate="2023-04-01T06:39:25.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past I have cut the acrylic to size using my Bosch plunge router and guides, and either made templates or set up straight guides to do the cutouts and ensure perfectly square/straight lines. To do this more efficiently I thought I would try a router table...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use a template with the router table to do the straight lines. Your router table should have come with a guide pin you can screw into the baseplate. Use that instead of the fence, and make sure not to get your fingers too close to the spinning bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having never used the table before, I wanted to be clear on general safety. One of the things I’ve read is you should never have your work piece sandwiched between the fence and bit. I was planning on doing just that to “rip” the acrylic to size (ie set fence at 7” to cut the overall rectangle from a larger piece of acrylic), and again have a portion of the acrylic between the bit and fence as I wanted to use the fence as my straight edge to make the cutouts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's correct that is not a good idea to make a &lt;em&gt;through cut&lt;/em&gt; where the workpiece can be pinched between the fence and bit. However, you could firmly tape the face of the acrylic to a sacrificial piece of wood using double-sided tape. If you only cut slightly into the wood on your last pass on the router table, you are not making a through cut and your chance of kickback is reduced. For even greater safety, you could use a spacer to offset the acrylic from the edge of the wood. This way, the wood runs against the fence, while the acrylic is set away from the fence by a consistent space, and won't have an opportunity to be pinched between the bit and fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess what I’m wondering is, whether the router table is the right tool for this job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hate to say it, but for the straight cuts you don't even need a power tool. You can score the acrylic several times on each side using a straightedge and sharp utility knife, then snap the acrylic along the score line. In fact, depending where you buy your material, they may cut it to size for you using exactly this method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of this necessarily means the router table is the wrong tool for the job. It just means that there are many ways to achieve what you want, and for safety's sake, you will need to make some minor tweaks to how you thought you would use your router table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2023-04-01T06:39:25.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8138" CreationDate="2023-04-01T14:23:18.223" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use 'black' shellac from shellac.net --- but more than 3 coats.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;'BLACK' SHELLAC Flake&#xA;Black Shellac&#xA;• On Light toned woods, the First coat yields a rich medium Cordovan (Bluish-Red) Mahogany.&#xA;• A second Coat is Deeper &amp;amp; Dark Cordovan toned Black.&#xA;• The third coat yields the BLACK with a shadowed hint of a DEEP Blackish-Purple tone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13158" LastActivityDate="2023-04-01T14:23:18.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14525" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14530" CreationDate="2023-04-02T18:55:09.647" Score="2" ViewCount="1011" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question about the optimal number of passes for cutting 3/4&amp;quot; plywood with a CNC machine. I've been using 3 to 4 passes, but I've noticed that only the head of my bit seems to be doing the cutting, while the rest of the bit looks almost new. As a result, I've had to replace my bits frequently, typically every week or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't tried a full cut because I was not sure if my spindle can handle it. Most of the videos on YouTube that I've watched recommend using the same method I'm currently using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you offer any advice or share your own experiences with me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2913" LastActivityDate="2023-04-07T23:15:00.900" Title="The optimum passes for cutting plywood with CNC" Tags="|cutting|router-bit|cnc|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14527" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-06T00:15:50.593" Score="2" ViewCount="238" Body="&lt;p&gt;We recently had an issue with wall paneling warping after installation on our wall. We live in Anaheim, California which isn't super humid and were wondering what may have caused this.&#xA;The panels were shipped from Houston directly to us and sat in our home until the contractor was able to install them about a week later. During that time, we opened the boxes to see what they looked like and they were absolutely stunning! We used regular solid nails (not screws) and adhesive glue to mount them on the wall. Shortly after, the panels began to warp and detach from the wall even the nails. Could this be due to the climate change or the type of glue that was used? We are puzzled at this point and not sure what to do. The panels are solid wood 24&amp;quot;x24&amp;quot;x0.71&amp;quot; in size and advertised as being easily mounted on the wall using glue or nails. The puzzling part is why did they warp when mounted on the wall after having being opened for a week prior? Could there be moisture in our wall?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kjiXv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kjiXv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vIrXm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vIrXm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lnqZb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lnqZb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SafUZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SafUZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13166" LastActivityDate="2023-06-16T03:29:32.013" Title="Solid Wooden Wall Panels Warping" Tags="|wood|panel|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2023-06-16T17:49:36.950" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14529" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-06T11:55:34.167" Score="0" ViewCount="1173" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a dining table that I refinished with a tabletop epoxy product.  I have one layer on it now and it is very glossy and I'm planning on putting another layer on top of it soon.  I've been using it a while and noticed that because it is so glossy, I've noticed scratches and the like just dragging cups or plates on the table.  Is there a coating that I can put on the epoxy after I put on my final coat that you would recommend that might either resist those scratches better or not cause them to be as noticeable?  Would something like Odie's wax be good for this application?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12913" LastActivityDate="2023-04-07T11:14:03.693" Title="Recommended coating to use on top of epoxy to help resist scratches" Tags="|tabletop|epoxy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14525" CreationDate="2023-04-06T23:39:51.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly, there are too many variables to give a simple answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some things which affect your optimal cut depth:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spindle speed (RPM)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Feed rate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tool geometry*&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tool material&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tool diameter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wood type**&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rigidity of your CNC machine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Tool geometry can differ in the following ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Number of flutes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cutting angle/rake angle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Straight or spiral flutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Special chip-breaking edges or other features of the cutter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flute clearance depth&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;End geometry (if not doing a through-cut)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**Wood type - even with plywood, there are different kinds of ply. Your &amp;quot;standard&amp;quot; marine-ply may cut very differently to e.g. baltic birch ply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More generally also, composite materials (plywood is a composite of wood veneers and an adhesive - usually a formaldehyde resin) can be quite wearing on cutting tools - moreso than even very hard solid wood species.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You haven't listed much about the type of cutter you're currently using, but generally, you can get improve cutting performance by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Going from a straight-fluted bit to a spiral-fluted bit. Note however that a spiral upcut bit will cause tear-out on the top edge. If you are through-cutting the board in one go, you may want to choose a &amp;quot;compression&amp;quot; bit, which has an upcut at the bottom, and downcut at the top, which greatly reduces tear-out on the faces, particularly for laminated materials.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Going from HSS tools to carbide-tipped or solid-carbide, or at the top end, polycrystalline diamond (PCD) - these get more expensive as you go up the scale though.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Upping the RPM - so long as your CNC and other important components (collets, toolholders, etc.) can handle it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Selecting chip-breaking or hybrid tooling for your router bits. If the finish on the edge of the pieces you're making doesn't matter too much, you could also use a &amp;quot;roughing&amp;quot; cutter - these usually have &amp;quot;serrated&amp;quot; edges which assist in chip-breaking and clearance, giving faster, more efficient cutting performance at the expense of finish quality.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, unless you buy a router bit from a manufacturer who has done the testing specifically on plywood and can give you guidance as to RPMs and feed rates (which, if you were a manufacturer buying from an industrial tooling company, they would), then selecting the right speeds is usually a matter of trial and error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to also redirect you to my answer about spiral router bits, which goes into a lot of detail about using router bits in general, here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/833/when-should-i-use-a-spiral-router-bit/835#835&quot;&gt;When should I use a spiral router bit?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2023-04-06T23:39:51.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14529" CreationDate="2023-04-07T11:14:03.693" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There may be other things going on here (more on this below) but it seems clear that the main issue was that not enough time passed before the table was put into service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of quotes from epoxy manufacturers about curing and usage:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Best practice to wait until epoxy is fully cured before putting into use. [5-7 days]&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Hard cure will take 72 hours depending on air temp, pour depth, width, length and overall epoxy mass. Sanding and shaping can be done after this time. &lt;strong&gt;Wait 7 days for light use.&lt;/strong&gt; Product will &lt;strong&gt;continue to harden up to 30 days&lt;/strong&gt; for a full hard cure.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think any reliable product will actually state the final hardness you can expect (given as a Shore D number) e.g. 75 for Smooth-On Tarbender, 82 for both Total Boat TableTop Epoxy and MAS Table Top Pro Epoxy, 80-85 for Polycraft ClearTop 35 Epoxy Water Clear Resin System, 98 for Ultra Clear Epoxy Premium Epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've noticed scratches and the like just dragging cups or plates on the table&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The unglazed rims of plates, mugs and other ceramic items are about the most abrasive things you have in your house because ceramics are so hard — literally harder than some commercial abrasives — so you do need a good product if you hope to get a long service life, although you can expect that eventually some marring &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind that there are factors which affect hardness and the speed of curing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Factors that affect curing time include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mix ratio.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thoroughness of blending.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pour thickness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Factors that affect &lt;em&gt;final&lt;/em&gt; hardness include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mix ratio.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Incomplete blending.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Humidity. High humidity is not friendly to epoxy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moisture content of the wood.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the key part of your Q is probably this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a coating that I can put on the epoxy after I put on my final coat that you would recommend that [will] resist those scratches better&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A harder epoxy? Note that if you do choose to go this route you'd use this other epoxy &lt;em&gt;as&lt;/em&gt; your final coat, since you'd be pouring on a full coat of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I suggest the first thing to do is wait out the full cure time for the product you've used and see how it stands up to use then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just in case it's not made absolutely clear in the instructions for the product you used, it is now far past the natural recoat time. So you &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; sand/scuff up the surface lightly but thoroughly to prepare it for a second coat (regardless of which epoxy is used).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-04-07T11:14:03.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14525" CreationDate="2023-04-07T23:15:00.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My boss had a Biesse Rover big-iron cantilever. It could cut 3/4 poplar-core ply in one pass using a 3/8&amp;quot; two-flute solid carbide compression bit. RPM was 20,000 at 19 meters/min, conventional cut. The spindle was 15-20 HP, up to 24,000 RPM. There was just the absolute slightest hint of deflection, a couple thousandths of an inch at most, which we'd counteract by a 0.01&amp;quot; offset, then take the rest during onion-skin removal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Shopbot PRT Alpha with a 2HP spindle used a 1/4&amp;quot; single-flute solid carbide compression bit. I ran 3/4&amp;quot; ply at 2 passes, 15,000 rpm, 10 meters/min, climb cut, then a final conventional cut during onion-skin removal. The structure of the Shopbot was much weaker and had 1/32&amp;quot; (0.03&amp;quot;) deflection, which was used as an automatic offset during climb-cutting. The final conventional cut ended up on the line. I never tried a single pass because of the less-stiff structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13061" LastActivityDate="2023-04-07T23:15:00.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14533" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-09T00:01:28.877" Score="2" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m refinishing an old Stevens 315 shotgun. (Mfg in 1938)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wood appears to be maple. I stripped any old finish and sanded to 220.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there still appears to be some type of embedded grease or maybe tannins?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve sanded the wood, used oxalic acid, and mineral spirits and nothing seems to take this out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NkQLP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NkQLP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Csre3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Csre3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="652" LastActivityDate="2023-04-09T00:01:28.877" Title="Old wood stock - black spots" Tags="|antique|cleaning|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14527" CreationDate="2023-04-16T13:20:57.770" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Warping in a panel can happen because the stresses within the material on each side of the panel are not balanced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your panels are all decoratively channeled on one face. I see all the pictures of warping panels have the warp bending toward the channeled face, so I'd be willing to wager that the back face of the panels going against the wall are flat and uncut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you take the panels off the wall and make shallow cuts on the flat back of the panels using a table saw both directions, so the back of the panel looks like a checker board, the higher stress on the back will dissipate and the panels will flatten back down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try cuts 1/8 of the thickness of the panel, then 1/4, then 3/8, etc until the warp is gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Style point, be sure to not run the relief cuts completely through the side of the panels that will be visible at the ends of the wall decoration, so you don't see the relief cuts after installation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(At my old job at a cabinet shop, we had a similar problem where we were CNC-carving Azek panels, and the panels were warping themselves off the CNC vacuum bed because of the unbalanced stresses. A criss-cross relief cut on the back before the carving cut on the front fixed the warping.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13061" LastActivityDate="2023-04-16T13:20:57.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14536" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-16T13:55:33.630" Score="0" ViewCount="45" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm attaching a new unfinished neck to the body of a finished guitar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the best way to finish the neck without damaging the existing finish at the joint to the body?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I just try finishing the neck before attaching to the body?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13194" LastActivityDate="2023-04-16T17:40:13.483" Title="Finishing wood next to an existing finish" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14536" CreationDate="2023-04-16T17:40:13.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the best way to finish the neck without damaging the existing finish at the joint to the body?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with all &amp;quot;best way to....?&amp;quot; questions this is completely subjective and can't be answered definitively. If you try searches on guitar-making and lutherie forums there's no doubt you'll discover a range of opinions on the ideal approach to doing what you're doing..... same as if you look up how to do any task in woodworking!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People can't even agree on something as fundamental as which glue to use, we shouldn't expect there to be agreement on anything more involved or complex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I just try finishing the neck before attaching to the body?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just as in furniture work there are good arguments to be made for both approaches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's rare to completely finish any component that has to be glued into position, but certainly you can start the finishing process on some or all surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of pre-finishing's oft-cited advantages is that surfaces with some finish on them shrug off excess glue, making cleanup both during the glue-up and after much easier. At best, hardened adhesive (even epoxy and superglue) won't have bonded &lt;em&gt;at all&lt;/em&gt; to a finished wood surface and can simply be flicked off with the fingernails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-04-16T17:40:13.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11109" CreationDate="2023-04-17T02:04:30.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a reference angle for a few things but mostly its just more accurate at checking depth. Some older slide bevels will actually have the angle stamped onto them. Think of it this way, a point has less surface area to be effected by the surface of material it rests on. So you get more accurate depth measurement. This is important when cutting things like dovetails because you can check the depth of one part to another to match them perfectly, even on angles. Use it by placing the handle flush to the top surface of what you wish to measure the depth of. Slide it down until the point is where you wish to measure to. Lock it in. You then can transfer that depth, including angle to the edge of a board place the handle flat and place a straight edge up to the point. Now you have your depth for the new piece. Draw a line down your straight edge to mark it. If you measured angle as well all you need to do is slide the bevel to known positions along the boards edge, mark, then fip the bevel and mark the mirror cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13197" LastActivityDate="2023-04-17T02:04:30.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14539" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14540" CreationDate="2023-04-18T12:43:50.103" Score="1" ViewCount="1511" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like suggestions for a table repair, please. I think the material is particle board. The table was exposed to rain briefly. The laminated table top was probably not properly glued when it was manufactured.  The laminated top surface is probably melamine.  The underside (of the table top) is probably also melamine. The result of the rain is that the particle board absorbed moisture.  The pictured screw pulled out.  The screw is 22 millimeters long. The metal that the screw passes through is also pictured.  I estimate the screw had a purchase of about 4 millimeters in the particle board before it pulled out. The particle board is about 12 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under normal use this might not matter but I have a need to sometimes lift the table by the top so yes, the separation was caused by misuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is an easy, inexpensive fix?  Is there a way to glue the underside surface of the table top to a metal (folded sheet metal) bar?  I would even consider that if I knew what type of glue that would be.  An easy fix I just thought of now, would be to shoot wood glue into the hole and set the screw into the wet glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will replace the whole table in about 2 weeks so a fix doesn't need to last forever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vuqAv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vuqAv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;screw&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y6MDW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y6MDW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;table&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13199" LastEditorUserId="13199" LastEditDate="2023-04-20T03:24:56.563" LastActivityDate="2023-04-20T09:26:40.607" Title="Easy inexpensive repair for a particle board hole and a loose screw" Tags="|wood-repair|screws|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14539" CreationDate="2023-04-19T00:16:31.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to glue the underside surface of the table top to a metal (folded sheet metal) bar I would even consider that if I knew what type of glue that would be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. This would not be the ideal fix since the top should remain more easily removable but even if the fix needed to last longer than it does this is doable&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An easy fix I just thought of now, would be to shoot wood glue into the hole and set the screw into the wet glue.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I will replace the whole table in about 2 weeks so a fix doesn't need to last forever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly, that would probably be enough if you use a glue that sets hard enough. You probably mean a PVA-type glue when you say &amp;quot;wood glue&amp;quot; here but do note that some PVAs set quite hard, while others are more rubbery/plasticy and wouldn't work as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth noting that the glue won't actually bond to the screw much, or at all, but what it will do is create perfect engagement of the threads once hardened – in effect you're casting a screw thread in the hole. Just in case it's not obvious you want to do this with the table flipped over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But for potential future reference, a more permanent repair of stripped-out holes in particle board/chipboard is quite possible. There are numerous good methods. The one that I would suggest is using a filled epoxy that you make yourself&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; from cheap 5-min epoxy. Generally the recommended filler for homemade wood putty is sawdust (note: misleading&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;) but since non-woodworkers usually don't have that available wheat flour can be used in a pinch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Despite melamine laminate's reputation for not being gluable both epoxy and PVA-type wood glues can stick it together quite well, as long as it's absolutely clean. I haven't tried it but I presume that any kind of polyurethane adhesive would also. The bond can be further strengthened by texturing the surface, just simple sanding scratches help although you can go a little further to provide even more for the glue to grab on to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; There are now numerous epoxy putties meant for various types of repairs including for use with wood. The DIY type can actually be better for this type of thing for a number of reasons. It can also be quite a bit cheaper as well as having a &lt;em&gt;far&lt;/em&gt; longer shelf life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Literally the first return that comes up when I did a test search just now says &amp;quot;Wood glue and sawdust...&amp;quot; although I highly doubt they mean actual dust from a saw. 'Sawdust' often refers generically to wood dust of any kind, but often in practice means &lt;em&gt;sanding&lt;/em&gt; dust specifically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-04-19T00:16:31.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14539" CreationDate="2023-04-19T14:12:10.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In case the looks and material of the top don't matter too much, I would just screw the board from the top with self-tapping flat-head metal screws of the right length (potentially only one, if that suffices).  You'd have to drill a few holes of the right size through the board and into the square pipe, in one go from above and apart from the existing screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10431" LastEditorUserId="10431" LastEditDate="2023-04-20T09:26:40.607" LastActivityDate="2023-04-20T09:26:40.607" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14544" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14545" CreationDate="2023-04-23T18:55:20.707" Score="1" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to make a center console for my car.  The piece in question looks like this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/85xMR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/85xMR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see that one side of the smaller cupholder hole was broken just by the activity of handling the piece and using the hole saw.  This is 3/8&amp;quot; OSB and I would really like something half the thickness.  What kind of wood could I buy that could make this piece, be ~5mm thick, and be reasonably strong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13212" LastActivityDate="2023-04-24T09:03:06.017" Title="What is a commonly available wood that will be strong enough for this thin piece?" Tags="|wood|strength|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14544" CreationDate="2023-04-24T09:03:06.017" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plywood, particularly high-grade plywood, will be a lot stronger than OSB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as Graphus said, you are stretching what wood will do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cutting the hole first, &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; cutting the straight edge (very, very, carefully - perhaps with a router) will certainly help (hole saws are not really precision tools and will often exert pressure on the side of the hole).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mixing a very fluid epoxy mix, and then getting it to soak into the area which will be very thin when you have cut the edge will help (build a suitable dam with plasticine or similar to give it a good chance to soak in).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, does this breakage actually matter?  I presume the cupholder has a metal rim which will cover the broken wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1646" LastActivityDate="2023-04-24T09:03:06.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14546" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14570" CreationDate="2023-04-25T16:17:13.340" Score="3" ViewCount="111" Body="&lt;p&gt;My table saw (Elektra Beckum &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.free-instruction-manuals.com/pdf/p4777392.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PKF255&lt;/a&gt; ) makes a strange metallic sounding rattling noise and I can't seem to figure out where it is coming from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the sound with the new freud blade:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/oEkEZrK2oWI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/oEkEZrK2oWI&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here's the (acceptable) sound with the original blade:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/TeQlYzQDWLA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/TeQlYzQDWLA&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the sound without blade:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtube.com/shorts/wmH_PUwVGUc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtube.com/shorts/wmH_PUwVGUc&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sound only really occurs with the thicker new blade, which has alternating top bevels (ATB). With the original blade it only occurs for a brief moment when the saw gets up to speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sound does not occur when the motor is stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no contact between blade and table as far as I can see or hear upon manually rotating the blade. I have increased the gap between the blade and the table top to be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without the blade on there's a slight noise from a loose washer, but I've check this and that washer is supposed to be loose to allow for the tilting motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could I do to further diagnose this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Something's definitely still loose inside the motor but I can't access it from the slot. Would it be a good idea to remove the motor using the bolts shown on this picture? &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.postimg.cc/1tHKtcTd/IMG-0817.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.postimg.cc/1tHKtcTd/IMG-0817.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13215" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-04-26T19:53:07.003" LastActivityDate="2023-05-09T06:31:24.580" Title="Help diagnosing rattling sound table saw" Tags="|table-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14547" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-26T15:04:30.213" Score="0" ViewCount="325" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seen at home depot.  They look exactly the same to my eyes but they are labelled different and at slightly different price points, so I assume there must be a difference.  What might it be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Handy panel:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VKfYX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VKfYX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u4U1y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u4U1y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;G1S plywood:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oZofx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oZofx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bRqkQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bRqkQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13212" LastActivityDate="2023-04-26T15:04:30.213" Title="What is the difference between 1/4&quot; birch ply handy panel and 1/4&quot; G1S plywood?" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14548" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-28T10:00:01.190" Score="1" ViewCount="190" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm on the process of making 1 meter x 1 meter panting canvas, including the &lt;strong&gt;wooden frame&lt;/strong&gt; on which to stretch the canvas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B7Gtxm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B7Gtxm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most difficult part is the corner assembly of the wood strips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many assembly techniques, but most of all require &lt;strong&gt;advanced equipment&lt;/strong&gt;, and are more dangerous than basic drills and saws. Note: by &amp;quot;dangerous&amp;quot; I mean, for example, a woodworking router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question: which simple corner assembly technique could be used for such a frame, without requiring too advanced equipment or skill?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FWtfr.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FWtfr.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13219" LastEditorUserId="13219" LastEditDate="2023-04-28T21:42:19.823" LastActivityDate="2023-04-29T13:07:33.170" Title="Corner assembly techniques for wood strips (for canvas frame), without complex equipment" Tags="|assembly|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14548" CreationDate="2023-04-28T13:05:08.183" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use any of the joints you illustrate, although some of them are impractical or a bit of overkill (dovetails, mortise/tenon) and some are not strong enough (miter or butt). When needed, I build custom canvas stretchers using lap joints which I create using my table saw. This joint is also relatively easy to create using handsaws, although a vise to hold the material while making the cuts is very helpful. Pre-milled frame pieces sold in art stores do have two nice features.  First, the profile of the cross-section tapers towards the inside limiting the contact between the canvas and the frame to the perimeter. This helps prevent the frame impression from showing up on the canvas face when making brush or knife strokes with the paint. I reproduce this feature by gluing a thin (1/8&amp;quot;) strip around the perimeter which is set higher to separate the canvas from the flat portions of the stretcher frame. Second, store frames usually have a key fitting at the intersecting corners that allow you to provide additional tension to the canvas when mounting the canvas or in the future to keep everything taut (see for example &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jacksonsart.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Canvas_Wedges_Blog_Image-7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2023-04-29T13:07:33.170" LastActivityDate="2023-04-29T13:07:33.170" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14548" CreationDate="2023-04-28T21:33:58.947" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suppose the most important thing to start with is that &lt;em&gt;none&lt;/em&gt; of the pictured joints are used in what I would term 'proper' framing for stretched canvases, emphasis on the word stretched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a fixed frame obviously you can stretch the canvas firmly onto it at the beginning, that's just a matter of good technique using suitable tools. And then you can size to further stiffen the fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But most (&amp;gt;99%) canvases are natural fibre so, like wood, they respond to changes in environmental conditions to some degree&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. Hence the conventional stretcher frame, which is adjustable at all four corners using a pair of wedges that act at 90° to each other, which allows for increasing tension when the canvas gets floppy as well as to release tension when it gets too taut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can I believe just buy in frame members from the right sources to make a frame to the dimensions you want. If that's not an option for any reason unfortunately making such a frame from scratch presents difficulties, especially if no fixed power tools can be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a good picture of pieces of stretcher frame, showing all the features of the corner joints:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lT0AF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lT0AF.png&quot; alt=&quot;Stretcher frame pieces&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;While making that joint can absolutely be done by hand it would be far from easy even for an experienced woodworker, and for the newbie or inexperienced woodworker it could be considered basically impossible due to the require accuracy — every single end must be good for the frame not to distort in some way when the corners come together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So what's the alternative?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;There are a few I can think of, although I don't know how one might weight them in terms of preference (I understand that some artists can be very particular about the archival nature of the materials they work with, and I don't know which {if any!} would be acceptable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in no particular order other than I thought of them in this sequence:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make a fixed frame using any joints that are sufficiently strong, with non-adjustable bracing as needed, and simply stretch over a &lt;strong&gt;synthetic-fibre cloth&lt;/strong&gt;. Artificial fibres aren't hygroscopic like natural ones are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't use fabric at all, but instead make a &lt;strong&gt;panel&lt;/strong&gt; that you simply prime and paint on. A thinner panel material such as tempered hardboard, good-quality plywood or MDF can be strengthened/reinforced with framing if needed, or you could use something (or make something, via lamination) that is strong enough as-is because it's thick enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Just a variation of the above, if the canvas weave is important you can bond a canvas to such a panel. Don't stretch it over the edges, simple glue it to the face using a suitable adhesive&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; An effect magnified if a protein glue, e.g. &amp;quot;rabbit skin glue&amp;quot;, is used for sizing. See &lt;em&gt;The Drawback of RSG&lt;/em&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jacksonsart.com/blog/2013/04/10/rabbit-skin-glue-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;em&gt;CONs: Resolubility and Stability Issues&lt;/em&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://justpaint.org/rabbit-skin-glue-pros-cons/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; I believe you don't want to use PVA for this because it's not easily reversible. A suitable adhesive for this purpose might be starch glue, made from rice or wheat, and these are easily made at home. I think you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; use PVA for sizing the canvas face, if desired/needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-04-28T21:33:58.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14551" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-29T01:30:15.247" Score="3" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a couch that has wooden decor pieces that are stapled/glued to the couch itself. My hip caught a piece of it as I walked by and split part of it in half. &lt;strong&gt;How can I reattach the piece and possibly make it stronger?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears they used an adhesive to attach it to the fabric and I only found some sort of staple from the fabric to the wood itself on the back side that are not visible until it broke off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a hard wooden frame behind the wooden decor piece.&#xA;See pictures below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Proper Placement of piece&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q38rv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q38rv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Proper Placement of piece&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Broken Edge&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rg8TU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rg8TU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Broken Edge&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Backside of broken piece&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PcGB4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PcGB4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Backside of broken piece&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Slight overlap of padding and wooden frame&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fJJfI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fJJfI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Slight overlap of padding and wooden frame under fabric&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Folded Fabric Detail&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pS47K.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pS47K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Fabric underneath where the broken piece goes&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Backside peak of frame&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Not able to slip off the cover even with the zipper. Unsure why there is a zipper at all&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pPPYx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pPPYx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;From behind, we can unzip the fabric to see what the frame is made of&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13221" LastEditorUserId="13221" LastEditDate="2023-04-29T03:08:40.570" LastActivityDate="2023-05-02T18:43:13.160" Title="How can I reattach this ornamental wooden piece back to my upholstered couch?" Tags="|furniture|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14552" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-29T01:52:41.950" Score="0" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;Big-box stores like Home Depot and Lowes sell a lot of lumber labeled &amp;quot;pine&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;poplar&amp;quot;, but these common names correspond to some very different species with very different properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an application, I'm looking for wood with a very specific modulus of elasticity and Janka hardness, which some species of pine and poplar have, but not all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would I identify the species being sold at these stores without having to buy them and subject them to testing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13194" LastActivityDate="2023-04-29T05:19:50.593" Title="How to identify big-box store pine and poplar species?" Tags="|wood-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14552" CreationDate="2023-04-29T05:19:50.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would I identify the species being sold at these stores without having to buy them and subject them to testing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A serious answer to this is: become an expert in the subject. That is literally the only way to know/have high confidence in the species you're buying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately it's still not as simple as that as it is pretty much &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; the end grain that can definitively identify (or rule out) many species and closely related cousins. And very often/most of the time the end grain on the wood being sold is not in a condition which would allow you to examine it closely enough. The wood ideally needs to be planed or pared dead smooth with a very sharp blade&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, and then dampened before careful observation under a loupe, or at even higher magnification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A further point&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If you NEED a certain physical property in the wood you're using I suggest instead that you aim to buy something that exceeds your requirements rather than merely meet them. You might want to greatly exceed it to give a greater margin of error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why? Because wood varies. Sometimes a lot, far more than sources tend to tell us — it's perfectly possible to get a weaker piece of wood and a strong piece of wood &lt;em&gt;from the same tree&lt;/em&gt;. That's what you're up against.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you can quite easily learn how to be more selective about which boards to buy&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, or which &lt;em&gt;parts&lt;/em&gt; of larger boards to use&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;. But still it's no absolute guarantee that the wood will match the written specs for that species&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Note that in this specific case sanding is not a substitute. For a start it's completely impractical on-site, and anyway at high magnification the sanding residue can tend to obscure certain details you want to see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; The basics of selecting for strength: avoid knots (as much as possible), look for tight ring spacing and generally straight, uniform grain, and zero or very little grain runout. This is also pretty much how to select for appearance as well, so you'll get some really nice looking wood this way while you're at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Strips cut from the edges of a 2x10 or 2x12 can often be FAR superior to commercial 1x2s and 2x4s as odd as that might sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt; A real-world example of this is in hickory, the premier handle wood in the US (and now often elsewhere in the world). It isn't a recent observation that some of the handle stock being  used is actually nothing like what hickory is supposed to be like. The problem is so bad in fact that some of it is truly junk, and readily breaks in service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-04-29T05:19:50.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14554" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14556" CreationDate="2023-04-30T01:52:09.443" Score="9" ViewCount="1470" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to this site and I am neither a woodworker nor a carpenter. I’m sorry if this question sounds naive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I watched many YouTube videos about constructing drawers. Unusually it has 4 sides joined together to form a box and finally add a face like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Clqy.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Clqy.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is why does it need another plate to be the face. Why not the face act as one of the sides?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jIbXk.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jIbXk.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe there must be a reason. It is just that I do not understand the matters. I had been searching online but all I found was showing how to make drawers without telling why the way it is. Hope some professional here can let me know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13223" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-04-30T09:48:04.417" LastActivityDate="2023-05-04T15:46:46.153" Title="Why an extra drawer face?" Tags="|drawer|drawer-construction|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14554" CreationDate="2023-04-30T02:38:22.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could build a drawer the second way, but it's not practical for any scale of [edit: home] production. You'd need to figure out a way to hide the fasteners or joinery that attaches the front to the sides. Adjusting the front face within the carcass would have to happen with the drawer slides (which is a curse). Applying finish would be a little more complicated. [edit to acknowledge the very correct comments: high volume, high precision production does use this method, clearly with great success. For the home-builder, I’ll stand by my points.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately, the normal way means that the 4 pieces of drawer body are easy to assemble. You can easily adjust the positioning of the drawer front to suit the cabinet. You can also purchase the drawer fronts separately (to go with the doors, probably) from specialty suppliers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastEditorUserId="503" LastEditDate="2023-05-01T12:41:18.527" LastActivityDate="2023-05-01T12:41:18.527" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14554" CreationDate="2023-04-30T06:11:45.880" Score="10" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is why does it need another plate to be the face. Why not the face act as one of the sides?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes the front-facing drawer side &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; also serve as the drawer face. There are various joints that can be used to connect the front to the sides while hiding the joinery from the front (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/locking-rabbet-joints/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;locking rabbet joint&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodsmith.com/article/making-half-blind-dovetails/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;half-blind dovetails&lt;/a&gt;). These joints are great if you want the drawer faces to be flush with the front of the cabinet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're not so great if you want the drawer faces to &lt;em&gt;overlay&lt;/em&gt; the cabinet front, though. You probably &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; start with a thick piece, cut a rabbet around the edges, and then join the sides of the drawer to the remaining thick part. It's much, much easier, though, to just build the drawer box first, and then attach a separate drawer front. Not only is the joinery easier, but keeping the drawer fronts separate and adding them at the end gives you a lot of room to adjust. If the drawer doesn't fit perfectly in its space — maybe it sits a little too high or low, or a bit to the left — it doesn't matter, because you can position the drawer front correctly on the cabinet front and then attach it to the drawer. If you have a series of drawers, you can adjust the drawer fronts so that they're spaced evenly, and even trim them if needed, without having to modify the drawers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="32" LastEditDate="2023-05-04T15:46:46.153" LastActivityDate="2023-05-04T15:46:46.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11109" CreationDate="2023-04-30T11:55:05.097" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that the 45 degree on the blade allows it to slide completely away into the wood to avoid injury in a tool box. The end of blade isn’t square or rounded because the kerf cut into the wood is cut on an 45 degree angle to reduce the chance of the wood splitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that few tradesmen ever slide the blade away. I have quite a few vintage sliding T bevels and some show rust pitting on the angle that they were left for years with the pointed blade exposed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13224" LastActivityDate="2023-04-30T11:55:05.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6881" CreationDate="2023-04-30T12:29:50.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously this is too late for the op, but I'm here because I'm looking for alternative methods so I can leave a tip for whomever comes after: you can also get a cam and post fixing jig and fixings.  This lets you DIY an IKEA style joint. There is much less chance of splitting because you're not driving a conical screw into the material, and the pulling load is spread over the surface of the cam, about half an inch by half an inch.&#xA;The jig is great for joining the end of one board to the face of another at the edge, a little trickier for joining in the middle. For that I'm considering cot screws so that I don't have to make matching holes I can just drill once with the pieces in situ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user13225" LastEditorDisplayName="user13225" LastEditDate="2023-04-30T12:30:14.527" LastActivityDate="2023-04-30T12:30:14.527" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14559" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-01T17:54:34.757" Score="0" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm refinishing my door (without removing hardware). After staining I ended up with (both shown in the picture)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;some bright speckles in some parts of the wood (especially around the hardware) and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a herringbone pattern in other parts of the wood&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that the herringbone pattern comes from the door being warped, because it follows prominent lines in the grain. I'm not sure where the speckles are from. Before staining, I stripped the old door, used milk paint orange peel solvent to clean the stripping agent, sanded to bare wood with an orbital sander, went over with a finishing sander, and wiped with a wet cloth. (Did the solvent need longer to dry? Did I need to let it dry more from my final wipe down? Was it from shaking the can instead of stirring?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts on what could be causing these two issues?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z00QA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z00QA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;door after first coat of stain&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13230" LastActivityDate="2023-05-01T17:54:34.757" Title="Unexpected speckling and herringbone pattern after staining" Tags="|staining|door|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14551" CreationDate="2023-05-02T18:43:13.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I reattach the piece and possibly make it stronger?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks to me as though the broken piece wasn't really attached to the fabric at all, or if it was, it wasn't attached very securely. If it had been glued with anything strong, the fabric would have pulled away from the sofa when the wooden piece broke off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would look at the rest of the wooden piece -- the part that's still attached. That part is probably attached to the sofa with nails or screws from the back side. If you flip the sofa over so that you can look at the bottom, you'll probably find that there's some black (or other dark-colored) material covering the bottom, probably just stapled on. You can remove those staples to free the fabric, which will then give you access to the inside of the sofa. Start with just the corner nearest the damage, and pull back enough of the fabric that you can see how the wood is attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The strategy should be to separate the wood from the sofa enough that you can glue the broken piece back on, and perhaps reinforce the repair from the back with a mending plate. You don't necessarily need to screw the mending plate on -- a strong epoxy like JB Weld would work well, especially if there are some holes in the plate for the epoxy to lock onto. Use regular wood glue (Titebond or similar) to glue the broken pieces together, and be sure to wipe up any glue that squeezes out of the joint with a damp rag before it sets up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2023-05-02T18:43:13.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14562" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14563" CreationDate="2023-05-04T07:06:07.647" Score="0" ViewCount="148" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a very basic question and I can't figure out the right Google query: how should you clamp glue ups of long seams?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, say I'm glueing a pine 2x2 to a 2x6 to make a ledge to support slats to support a twin mattress (75&amp;quot; seam). That's 1.5 x 75 x 150 pounds of pressure. Clearly I don't need 112 small clamps. But what &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; I need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I looked at &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/6497/i-calculated-the-recommended-number-of-clamps-required-for-my-table-top-and-the&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; but there was no practical answer (which, based on comments on this question, is &amp;quot;fewer clamps than the math says plus a bunch of screws&amp;quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13237" LastEditorUserId="13237" LastEditDate="2023-05-05T12:26:33.580" LastActivityDate="2023-05-05T12:26:33.580" Title="Clamping long glue ups" Tags="|furniture|clamps|gluing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14562" CreationDate="2023-05-04T13:06:10.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tend to use clamps every 12-18&amp;quot; (min 2) when gluing things up, and in your case I'd tend to add some screws as well. The screws would be for added strength after the glue has dried.  Every wood bed frame I've seen has the screws holding on the ledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2023-05-04T13:06:10.193" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14564" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-05T02:45:30.767" Score="0" ViewCount="230" Body="&lt;p&gt;Edit: &lt;strong&gt;I withdraw the question but am leaving it up for posterity. Based on comments, I think it is is malformed. I reframed it as a &amp;quot;what joinery should I use&amp;quot; question &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/14565/iso-four-way-knock-down-bunk-bed-joinery&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like most new posters to this forum, I am building a bunk bed. I'm hoping someone here can suggest improvements to the joint I designed to attach the mattress box to the posts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In broad strokes I'm using pine, 4x4 for the posts, 2x6 for the mattress boxes, 2x2 for the cleats, 1x4 for the slats, and 2x4 for ladders and guard rails. I'd like to build the boxes as permanent units and knock it down by removing the boxes from the posts. The structure is roughly this and the joint in question is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PrEKXm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qMFZVm.png&quot; alt=&quot;3&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My idea for the joint is a half lap to make the box corner and a dado to hold it up (slats removed for clarity):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W032y.png&quot; alt=&quot;4&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My theory is that the weight goes mattress -&amp;gt; slat -&amp;gt; cleat -&amp;gt; long box side -&amp;gt; post. So I expose a the maximum amount (3 ½&amp;quot;) of the long side to the dado and keep it in compression. Then I half lap  (1 ½&amp;quot; square) and screw (peg?) the short box side to the long since it isn't load bearing, the slats will hold the box square, and other pieces will hold the posts square. Finally I secure the dado with a bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a better design to achieve this that is no more complicated than a dado or half lap?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do the bolt/screw/peg locations look right or am I undermining the wood's strength?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is one bolt per post enough to keep the box attached to the post? What size bolt should I be using?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is one screw + glue enough to make the box corner permanent?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I use a peg instead of a screw to make the box corner?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13237" LastEditorUserId="13237" LastEditDate="2023-05-05T12:23:14.610" LastActivityDate="2023-05-05T12:23:14.610" Title="Bunk bed frame corner design?" Tags="|joints|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14565" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-05T12:21:20.563" Score="0" ViewCount="246" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a style of joinery to attach the mattress boxes in a bunk bed to the supporting posts. I tried inventing my own &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/14564/bunk-bed-frame-corner-design&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and was correctly dissuaded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic bed structure is from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ana-white.com/woodworking-projects/modern-bunk-beds-side-street&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ana White's Modern Bunk Beds&lt;/a&gt; and other online designs. The main difference is I want to build the mattress boxes as permanent units and be able to knock this down by removing them from the posts by unscrewing bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I'm almost certain I want to keep:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material is pine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Posts are 4x4, mattress box sides are 2x6, cleats are 2x2, slats are 1x4, everything else is 2x4.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mattress boxes should be permanent (i.e. 78x38 boxes with glued sides, cleats, and probably glued slats).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One side will have a ladder so guard rails can't be counted on to hold the posts apart or together.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No cuts more complicated than a half lap or dado. I also think I need to use bolts or screws rather than tusk tenons or the like.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boxes are attached to posts by bolts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the rough structure and the joint in question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PrEKX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PrEKX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rough bed structure&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems entirely possible that the posts will attach (at least partially) inside the frames. Or maybe they should be turned into a pair of 2x4 in an L arrangement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked at many online designs but I haven't found any that both do this and (given the importance of this joint) I trust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would you use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; added explicit mentions of bolts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13237" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-05-08T06:23:58.180" LastActivityDate="2023-05-11T12:16:49.167" Title="ISO three-way knock-down bunk bed joinery" Tags="|joinery|design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14565" CreationDate="2023-05-05T17:31:48.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just typed this whole answer up and then realised I'd missed your &amp;quot;no cuts more complicated than a half-lap or dado&amp;quot; requirement... but figured I'd post it anyway, it may still be useful - perhaps the second, half-lap joint will be doable?:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to knockdown joinery, it seems that wedged through-tenons, or tusk tenons, or keyed mortise and tenon joints (all names for the same thing) are king. Basically it's where you have a mortise and tenon joint, but rather than the tenon stopping inside the timber (with a blind mortise hole) or flush with the outside of the mortised piece (with a through-mortise hole, the tenon travels fully through the mortised piece, sticks out the other side, and has a hole in the tenon through which you drive a wedge to hold it in place:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZrnSH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZrnSH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Keyed mortise and tenon joint&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(Image from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.craftsmanspace.com/woodworking-joints/mortise-and-tenon-woodworking-joints&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This kind of joint can also be adapted to make a &amp;quot;three-way&amp;quot; joint as you're asking for. You'll need to cut two tenons where one passes through the other:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Constructed:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zRQZM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zRQZM.png&quot; alt=&quot;Three-way knockdown joint with wedged through-tenons&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Deconstructed:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/69D5R.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/69D5R.png&quot; alt=&quot;Deconstructed three-way knockdown joint with wedged through-tenons&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a video of somebody using this exact method &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CwXG6zN24Ow&amp;amp;t=1143s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, there's a simpler (possibly, depending on the tools and woodworking experience you have) half-lap version of a half-lap joint with wedged through-tenon on wikifactory &lt;a href=&quot;https://wikifactory.com/@williamul/wood-joint&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See image for reference:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TrOZ1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TrOZ1.png&quot; alt=&quot;Half-lap three-way wedged through-tenon joint&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you may wish to look at bolted connections. A similar question has been asked &lt;a href=&quot;https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/48376/are-pocket-screws-strong-enough-for-a-bed-frame&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, with a good answer illustrating one method for a bolted connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2023-05-05T17:31:48.523" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14567" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-05T20:54:48.080" Score="3" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m making a serving tray in a woodworking course. I designed it to have a “fence” running along the length of the board and attaching the handles between the two fences. As you can see from the picture below, the handle consists of 2 pieces with an arc. The upper piece is quite thin (min. 12mm, max. 18mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5esAV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5esAV.png&quot; alt=&quot;Perspective view of the serving tray&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0oskH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0oskH.png&quot; alt=&quot;Side view of the serving tray, viewing the handles&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is about how I would go about constructing the handle pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought about making the handle in one piece as if the top of the handle is attached to the bottom part, adding about 3mm to account for the saw blade (see picture below). Then, after routing the arc, I could cut the pieces apart. This seems like a good way to provide some stability for the handheld router OR provide more safety if I’d use a table router (not sure on which tool to use, either).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V7umU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V7umU.png&quot; alt=&quot;Serving tray handle construction in one piece&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I’m going to use a router, I’m also not sure about how to create a template for this. I could just draw the arc line on the wood, so I can “eyeball” it… Is there a better way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could also just draw the shape of the arc onto the wood and use a chisel…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice or comment is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13240" LastEditorUserId="1308" LastEditDate="2023-05-06T12:43:30.150" LastActivityDate="2023-05-06T12:43:30.150" Title="Need help creating serving tray handles" Tags="|technique|router|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14567" CreationDate="2023-05-06T06:26:53.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure why your mind went to the router here but I don't think it's the way a lot of people would choose to do this (although it can absolutely be done that way). If the ends here were single pieces and the openings were extended ovoids then a router would arguably be &lt;strong&gt;the&lt;/strong&gt; way to go, after getting rid of most of the waste by other means&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it's just the one tray I think the curved edges you need are within the scope of &amp;quot;I'm OK with doing these individually&amp;quot; for most people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, saying that, there's a more efficient way of doing it and that's &lt;em&gt;ganging the pieces together&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; for some &lt;strong&gt;or all&lt;/strong&gt; of the operations&lt;/em&gt; and working them all at once. Naturally this will also help ensure greater uniformity in the end result, if that's something you particularly want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For ease of workholding I would make all four pieces the same size initially, then cut or plane down the narrower top pieces to size. This could even be done after installation in the tray if desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't attempt to draw the curve freehand by eye; this is far more difficult than it seems and rarely works as well as one hopes. Instead use a very old method, bend a thin strip of wood (or a steel rule) and mark along it, something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IGllk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IGllk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Marking a smooth curve, bent lath&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://canadianwoodworking.com/techniques_and_tips/drawing-curves/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You only need to draw the curve once if you're ganging the four pieces together and working them all together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you want or need to do them individually then mark only one piece, work it to completion them mark the other three pieces from the first. This is considered best practice for uniformity of results in many woodworking operations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If a &lt;strong&gt;bandsaw&lt;/strong&gt; is available, you'll have all four pieces ganged together and will saw close to the line using it. If you're nervous you might want to aim to be about 1/8&amp;quot; (3mm) from the line, but with care — working slowly and being prepared to back up a bit and change angle as needed — you could aim for 1/16&amp;quot; (1.5mm), leaving a lot less excess wood to remove in the next step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Work down to the line initially using sanding, using &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; coarse paper (60 grit or even coarser!) if you have to do it by hand. If an oscillating spindle sander or drum sander in a drill are available, use them. You could conceivably also do this using the toe of a belt sander, but you'd need to be very careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Finish off the surface either by hand sanding in the direction of the grain up to 180 or 240 grit (the most common finishing grits), or by scraping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If a &lt;strong&gt;compass plane&lt;/strong&gt; is available consider doing the entire operation using it. You can just use a curved-bottom plane to do some or all of the final smoothing, but there isn't a great deal of wood to remove here so it's quite possible to do the whole job with the plane, saving multiple operations and setups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Drilling a sequence of holes with e.g. Forstner bits, or drilling two holes and joining them with jigsaw or coping saw cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Using the tape + superglue trick, good carpet tape or hot-melt glue to temporarily tack them together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-05-06T06:26:53.383" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14569" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14571" CreationDate="2023-05-06T19:16:06.453" Score="0" ViewCount="136" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.screwfix.com/p/british-general-fortress-16-module-10-way-populated-high-integrity-dual-rcd-consumer-unit/466px&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;consumer unit&lt;/a&gt; that is perfectly flush in the corner of my hallway, and I am wanting to build some kind of full height storage cupboard around it from 18mm melamine chipboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was initially thinking about building a backless unit for a bit extra space given the space it will fit in is not the deepest, but with the consumer unit where it is, I will have to make a cutout to which I would be concerned that a backless unit would be not structurally sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yqhnt.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yqhntm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan on having some shelves via shelf pins so they won't add any rigidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that the current idea isn't structurally sound, what would be the best route to ensure it is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I could consider using a 6mm ply/mdf backing with its own cutout&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I could to 2 stretchers from the same 18mm board, one above and one below.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking for some advice :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Full space dimensions (click to enlarge)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B1ZGV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B1ZGVm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8149" LastEditorUserId="8149" LastEditDate="2023-05-12T10:54:31.197" LastActivityDate="2023-05-12T10:54:31.197" Title="Box to cover consumer unit flush with wall - Backless with cutouts possible?" Tags="|wood|strength|boxes|chipboard|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14546" CreationDate="2023-05-09T06:31:24.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was a tiny bit of play around the arbor. The Freud blade arbor hole was not exactly 30mm. Fixed by adding a tiny bit of duct tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it was indeed the blade. My mistake to fall for that fancy red paint  ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For completeness sake: I also removed the motor, which is the only way to check/adjust belt tension on this machine. Just four bolts holding the motor in place.&#xA;Belt was fine. I noticed that there's still a small part vibrating inside of the motor. As it's not affecting the operation of the saw, I decided not to open up the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13215" LastActivityDate="2023-05-09T06:31:24.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14569" CreationDate="2023-05-09T07:33:45.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Referring to the discussion in the Comments, assuming it is legal, and therefore safe, for you to continue.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Backless with cutouts possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well &lt;strong&gt;a&lt;/strong&gt; coutout, yes, absolutely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the proposed installation location, one side of the cabinet (the one that will have the cutout) is hard up against the return wall. So your side can be screwed directly to that wall, using as many fasteners as you personally feel are needed&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. Once this side becomes a fixed element, most of the normal reason for having a back immediately goes away, even with the amount of space the back takes up being very modest&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; a back is just not needed here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do need to think about how you will hang the other side of cabinet since this isn't a conventional installation. While I suppose theoretically you could use keyhole hangers I'm not sure about how fiddly this would be in practice given the other cabinet side. So I propose you use L-shaped steel brackets which are utilitarian, but strong and cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They do take up some space though, figure you'll lose max 3mm from the back and side where each is located. But since they don't need to be placed anywhere in particular, and in keeping with the theme of maximising internal storage, site them where they're most unlikely to interfere with items placed on any shelf — up high, just under the cabinet top and right below one shelf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Given destructive testing data (from manufacturers and from comparative testing done on YouTube channels such as Gosforth Hanyman), I would be happy to use only two, but feel free to triple that number if you need to in order to feel confident. One rarely has cause to regret going stronger on a build!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Since you would be using 6mm MDF if you did fit a back you'd lose at most 10mm of internal space front to back, which doesn't seem excessive. Although perhaps you're very tight for space with the proposed contents, where every millimetre counts (I think we've all been there).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-05-09T07:33:45.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14572" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-10T07:43:47.287" Score="2" ViewCount="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to install a wall mounted desk in our living room. The goal is to only mount it on the left and back wall (see image).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The table is glulam beech (200cm x 60cm x 3cm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JASP9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JASP9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Where the desk will be mounted&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option 1:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder if just doweling a square piece to the bottom back and left that then is mounted to the wall would be strong enough? (dry wood wall, mounted to beams)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VJ69w.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VJ69w.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Construction under desk that's mounted to the wall&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option 2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about adding supports below, but not sure if that's necessary or would help much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XnACJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XnACJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Construction under desk with additional support&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option 3:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe there is a better/stronger way to mount the desk I've not considered yet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13252" LastActivityDate="2023-05-10T07:43:47.287" Title="Desk wall mount" Tags="|mounting|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14573" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-11T02:17:22.660" Score="2" ViewCount="244" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a picture frame... (3 8x10 side by side with simulated barn doors on either side.&#xA;I'm using rough cut cypress wood that came from the sawmill and has a moisture content of 60%. I've planed a little of the rough cut off one side and planed the other side (back) smooth to a thickness of 7/8&amp;quot;&#xA;I also live in Central Fl so the humidity is high in my wood shop where I'm putting the project together. All the joints are butt joints that have been glued and held together with a screw. I have the frame 90% complete and I'm now wondering if I should wait for the moisture content to come down before I start putting my finish coats of shellac or can I reasonably expect the finish to dry okay despite the high moisture content.&#xA;I don't think even if I bring it inside for a couple of weeks that I'm going to see much improvement in the moisture content.&#xA;Any input will be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13255" LastActivityDate="2023-06-18T06:07:50.927" Title="Shellac on wet wood" Tags="|wood-movement|shellac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14565" CreationDate="2023-05-11T12:16:49.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the problem, is that you have the sides of the mattress box butting up to the posts.  If you redesign as follows (crude ascii art)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;xx       xx&#xA;xx       xx&#xA;|=========|&#xA;|         |&#xA;|=========|&#xA;xx       xx&#xA;xx       xx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where the &lt;code&gt;x&lt;/code&gt;s are the posts, and the &lt;code&gt;|&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;=&lt;/code&gt; are the sides of the mattress box, you can then easily bolt through the posts into the mattress box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does mean &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; the weight is being taken on the bolts - so don't be stingy with them. (You may be designing this for some sweet young toddlers, but they don't &lt;em&gt;stay&lt;/em&gt; toddlers.  It's always a good idea to design beds for two overweight people having vigorous sex).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1646" LastActivityDate="2023-05-11T12:16:49.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14575" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-12T04:00:17.237" Score="0" ViewCount="70" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/a/Su30Bz4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here's a clip&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm building a wooden side headrest based on this idea: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AdgiN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AdgiN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image: headrest with side support&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm constantly adjusting the side (plywood) support based on my leaning position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I make the adjustment easier like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;unlock &amp;gt; slide/adjust &amp;gt; lock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;instead of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;remove 2 clamps --&amp;gt; slide/adjust --&amp;gt; put back clamps.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there components I can buy that can achieve the sliding mechanism?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13258" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-05-12T15:09:36.787" LastActivityDate="2023-05-12T15:09:36.787" Title="How can I make a sliding mechanism in this plywood side headrest that locks it into place?" Tags="|plywood|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14576" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-12T12:03:11.130" Score="1" ViewCount="355" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to build a spice shelf organizer, something like this, out of thin bamboo sheets:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Tkmc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Tkmc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bamboo sheets that I've got are actually leftover multi-ply flooring from another project, and are probably about 1/8&amp;quot; to 1/4&amp;quot; thick. The structural requirements (holding some spice bottles) aren't that extreme.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How could this kind of wood be joined in this way for this application?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4640" LastActivityDate="2023-05-13T13:56:43.043" Title="How can I join very thin sheets at a right angle?" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14576" CreationDate="2023-05-12T20:15:29.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My drawing skills fail me atm, but if you put two sides on that idea, glued butt joints would almost certainly work. Bonus points if you put a block attached to each side, supporting the underside of the high end of the ramp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there was finish on the scrap pieces, you'd want to sand that off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Epoxy would be my first choice, but I think that even a regular wood glue would work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2023-05-12T20:15:29.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14576" CreationDate="2023-05-13T13:56:43.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One easy option is to perhaps put two small (maybe 1/4&amp;quot; x 1/4&amp;quot; or so) runners on the back side to act as reinforcement for the joints, then use glue and/or small nails or staples or tiny countersunk screws. Something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/50Qx8m.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/50Qx8m.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom panel is extended past the larger panel a bit to give a surface to attach the runner to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1250" LastActivityDate="2023-05-13T13:56:43.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14579" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-14T05:51:59.730" Score="0" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;My router has a 1/2&amp;quot; collet to take 1/2&amp;quot; shank bits. I also have this generic CNC endmill whose shank is 3/8&amp;quot;. I want to be able to use this endmill with the router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I apply painter's tape (or masking tape) to thicken the shank of this 3/8&amp;quot; CNC endmill so I can fit it on the 1/2&amp;quot; collet? Would it ruin the collet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How about in general? Can I use tape to buff up smaller bit to the larger collets/chucks of these power tools?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know, I should probably be experimenting on this on my own. I never found the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12843" LastActivityDate="2023-05-15T12:48:46.150" Title="Using tape to thicken shank of the endmill/rotary bit/drill" Tags="|drilling|drill-bits|cnc|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14580" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14585" CreationDate="2023-05-14T16:28:03.547" Score="1" ViewCount="60" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m new to woodworking and have a kitchen cabinet door with the following issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RZp01.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RZp01.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cabinet door with a slipped panel&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Applying short term pressure to the frame doesn’t make it budge. Perhaps some long term compression bands would move it back into place over time? This cabinet is directly over the boiler and kettle, so it’s likely that heat/steam affected the joints. Perhaps steam or hot water could help it back in again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an obvious approach to the well informed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13262" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-05-14T18:37:47.373" LastActivityDate="2023-05-16T05:42:24.493" Title="Resetting a slipped frame element in a frame-and-panel cabinet door" Tags="|joinery|cabinetry|panel|steam-bending|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14581" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-14T17:03:01.450" Score="0" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have another router with a 1/4&amp;quot; collet. I want to be able to use my 3/8&amp;quot; shank CNC endmill on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm thinking of grinding the shank to 1/4&amp;quot;. Here's how I'm gonna do it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll put copious amount of tape on the cut length so it won't get damaged as I hold that cut length side to the chuck of my power drill. Then, I'll run the power drill while having a piece of sandpaper grip the shank. Lastly, I'll stop when I reach the required shank diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming this could potentially work, what sand paper grit is best to grind HSS? I'm presuming silicon carbide?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use this method to grind down large endmill/drill/rotary bits shanks for smaller collets/chucks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12843" LastActivityDate="2023-05-14T17:03:01.450" Title="Grinding down my endmill/drill/rotary bit's shank" Tags="|sanding|power-tools|router-bit|drill-bits|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14582" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14584" CreationDate="2023-05-14T22:42:29.677" Score="0" ViewCount="81" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a beginner woodworker, but I'm intrigued by these plans for a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.finewoodworking.com/2019/05/31/free-plan-mid-century-modular-wall-unit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Modular Wall Unit from Fine Woodworking&lt;/a&gt;. They're outside my skill range but could be a fun challenge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plans are pretty detailed, but when it comes to making these brackets, it just says &amp;quot;The brackets are two solid-wood pieces that are mitered, reinforced with dominos, and glued together.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would you approach cutting the angles for these two pieces? Even with a deep miter saw, it seems like there isn't enough wood to hold onto for the final cut for that to be a good idea. Would you do it on a table saw with a miter gauge? Would you build a jig for it? This is probably obvious to the people who wrote these plans, but I don't know what the typical approach would be!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6r6fU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6r6fU.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13096" LastActivityDate="2023-05-15T13:00:16.240" Title="How would you make these brackets from Fine Woorking's Modular Wall Unit plans?" Tags="|table-saw|tool-selection|miter-joint|miter-saw|process|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14579" CreationDate="2023-05-15T12:48:46.150" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;That sounds like a good way to get yourself seriously hurt.  There is no way Tape can handle the forces generated nor the heat from spinning at 32000 rpm.  There is a reason they are steel shanks.  The tape might melt or start on fire, and there is no way you can make it tight enough for the bit not to wobble like a top if you tried to cut anything with it, right before it shoots out and smashes something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best bet would be to see if there is a 3/8&amp;quot; collet available for your router. Or to buy a similar bit with the correct shank size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2023-05-15T12:48:46.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14582" CreationDate="2023-05-15T13:00:16.240" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;These kinds of long miters are indeed fairly tricky to cut. Some options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Table saw with a jig. The jig would allow you to clamp the wood at an angle and then slide across the fence (toggle clamps are best for this, but you can rig something for f-clamps as well). This allows for long cuts (i.e. shallow angles) and is probably the safest way to do this&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Table saw with miter gauge, works okay for smaller pieces. Might be better to do the miter first and cut to size after to avoid cutting a piece that is awkward to hold tight against the miter gauge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sliding miter saw that has enough capacity for this. Do note that miter saws typically come with cross cut blades, but in this case it is closer to a rip cut. Cross cut blades will bog down and tend to pull the wood more in this configuration than regular cross cutting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Circular saw/jigsaw/handsaw. Mark the line of the cut, clamp the wood to the edge of the workbench so that the cut overhangs and cut it. As suggested, might want to plane/sand the final edge to be straighter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another alternative is not to cut the edge straight, but instead have a certain decorative pattern. Cutting that with a jigsaw or scroll saw would be fairly easy and wouldn't require as much accuracy as a straight edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2023-05-15T13:00:16.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14580" CreationDate="2023-05-16T05:42:24.493" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Converting my Comments to an Answer because the proposed solution worked:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Applying short term pressure to the frame doesn’t make it budge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the glue joints have totally failed sufficient clamp pressure should be capable of returning this to its original position (especially given that no pressure to speak of was needed to move it to where it is now!) it's just really tight, with well-cut joints + added friction from the failed glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So just trying to increase the pressure seems like it will work, and that's definitely what some would try with a range of clamps available — I can easily imagine someone putting one or two quick clamps on this to start with and if there were no movement, or squeezing the handles got too hard, switching to F-clamps or parallel-jaw clamps which are capable of exerting more force (considerably more in the case of decent parallel-jaw clamps).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The OP tried this and it worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;that worked! I got some really big clamps and kept tightening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Great! Once you saw movement did you smear some waterproof glue on the surfaces you could see and then continue to tighten?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. When it slips out again, I’ll be ready with the glue. The friction alone is quite strong. It took decades for it to slowly slip out of place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given this, I'd suggest applying a little standard runny superglue along the joint at the bottom of the frame. Some of the superglue will wick into the joint a bit if there's a gap and act like a tack weld.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As tiny as this new bond is it may prevent the rail starting to slip again — superglue is regularly used to close hairline cracks in various woodworking contexts, and often the repair is permanent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like with a lot of furniture repairs, ideally the thing to do would be to disassemble the door completely (if possible without inflicting damage) to allow for easy access to joint surfaces, so that old glue can be scraped away to prepare them for new glue to form very strong glue joints throughout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But cabinet doors aren't subject to tons of racking forces, so remedial work like dribbling in some runny glue could well be sufficient for a long-term repair. By comparison, in a typical chair repair with a slipped joint it's generally &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; sufficient, because chairs are subject to lots of stress, repeatedly and often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-05-16T05:42:24.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14527" CreationDate="2023-05-16T23:38:23.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question just caught my attention. In the closeup image the nails are visible and they are just long enough to penetrate the gypsum panels and would have little opportunity to embed with any wood framing if they were exactly secured at studs. Neither gypsum board nor plaster are going to be able to hold onto a brad type nail. I also see some glue, but not enough to resist the warping force. As others have suggested, there will be a lot of unbalanced tension at each face and warping of solid wood panels is probably inevitable. The product would resist warping much better if it were a ribbed veneer on a plywood substrate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not certain if you can return the panels to a flat profile without damaging them. It may not be possible to construct a secondary wood frame 1 1/2&amp;quot; thick that is glued (and screwed?) to the back face thick enough to resist any future warping. If the panels can be flattened, I would extend this frame beyond the top and one side edge so that it can be screwed to the wall and recessed at the bottom and other side to make room for the screwed edge of frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2023-05-16T23:38:23.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14589" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-17T21:10:46.893" Score="1" ViewCount="512" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y8i1B.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y8i1B.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an exposed ceiling with 2x6 Tongue &amp;amp; Groove, with a chamfer detail. The basic profile looks exactly like the T&amp;amp;G you'd buy at home centers and lumber yards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But my ceiling was made when lumber had different dimensions. The stuff you buy now is too small by around 1/16th of an inch. The depth (the 2 inches) is less of an issue, but the width (6 inches) is a real problem because I'm trying to replace a section in the middle of my ceiling, leading to gaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm considering cutting my own 2x6 T&amp;amp;G with chamfers to match the existing roof. I'd cut it out of 2x8s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty confident I could cut the tongue and the groove with either a table saw or a router table. But I'd appreciate advice if that's accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not confident at all how to cut the chamfers. Can those also be cut with a table saw, or would a table saw end up splintering out lots of materials? Would I use a router table to form the chamfers? (and if I do that.. .should I just cut the tongues and grooves with a router table as well).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*** Update***&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up successfully fabricating the T&amp;amp;G with a router, wing bit, and chamfer bit. Instead of using the router table, which was going to be tough given the weight of the lumber, I used a Router Edge Guide (from Bosch, which fit my Bosch router perfectly). The 2x6 pine had inconsistent widths, so I adjusted the router edge guide on each plank individually so that the width of the exposed board (width minus tongue) was consistent. It's in my soffit now and looks great - no gaps after 10 boards, unlike the store bought T&amp;amp;G which is 1/8th inch too skinny, leading to gaps. Thanks for all the help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13271" LastEditorUserId="13271" LastEditDate="2023-10-27T18:54:34.023" LastActivityDate="2023-10-27T18:54:34.023" Title="Forming 2x6 tongue &amp; groove decking (with chamfers)" Tags="|table-saw|router-table|process|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14589" CreationDate="2023-05-17T22:03:56.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of ways of cutting the bevels. (Not micro-bevels, if we’re being pedantic.) These are often called chamfers, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could certainly do the bevels/chamfers on the tablesaw; the only concern there is that you have to move the wood perfectly across the table to get a consistent bevel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the groove side, I’d go with the router option. Just make sure your order of operations maintains a good reference edge to run the router bit bearing against. (In other words, cut the groove on the tablesaw last.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the tongue side, it might be a bit more complicated, depending on how you’re set for router gear. You could use an edge guide and a v-groove cutter without a guide bearing. You could possibly use a bearing guided chamfer cutter, but that involves riding the router on edge (not great) and extending the cutter shank quite a lot in the collet. You need to be very sure that you have enough of the shank in the collet. Failing all that, you might be back to the tablesaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you’ve done the bevels, the tablesaw is a great tool for the grooves and tongues. If your fence isn’t very tall, add a tall extension fence to prevent the stock from tipping sideways. Just don’t make the grooves too tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastEditorUserId="503" LastEditDate="2023-05-18T16:31:28.727" LastActivityDate="2023-05-18T16:31:28.727" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14589" CreationDate="2023-05-18T12:37:34.750" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a router table or a shaper, you can buy matched bits that can route the tongue and groove each in 1 pass, such as these &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B08NSTCFNP&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tongue and groove bits&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course the biggest problem is finding a set of bits designed for a 2 x ? board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a dado set for your table saw, and a chamfer bit for your router, it should be relatively easy to duplicate the pattern, just remember, once you have it set up correctly for 1 cut, do ALL the same cuts before moving on to the next one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also depending on where you live, look for small mills or lumber yards that sell rough cut lumber, you should be able to find real 2x6's that should be a bit cheaper than finished 2x8's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-05-19T04:35:21.143" LastActivityDate="2023-05-19T04:35:21.143" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14593" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-18T18:19:32.010" Score="-2" ViewCount="351" Body="&lt;p&gt;The information I have so far show that half-lap joints are made using table saw. However, it should still be possible to make them without table saw by using some other jig while getting clean joints with the correct dimensions on both sides of the joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the correct way to make half-lap joints without using table saw? Is it using circular saw with chisel or using wood router or something else? Are there any jigs that can help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12906" LastActivityDate="2023-05-26T15:04:45.260" Title="Half-lap joints without table saw" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ClosedDate="2023-05-27T14:40:08.277" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14573" CreationDate="2023-05-19T05:08:18.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Putting aside the concerns about working with wood this wet, I think there's a reasonable chance the shellac will bond to the wood OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For starters, shellac can bond to &lt;em&gt;oily&lt;/em&gt; wood&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, which is presumably much more challenging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the surface of the wood won't be as wet as the moisture meter measured, it never is. The surface of wood is &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; more dry than the interior wood on boards of any reasonable thickness&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of the bond question, I'd expect issues with clouding however. Especially if attempting to build up a decent coating of shellac. Shellac is infamous for clouding, where literal cloud-like white staining can show up in the film, particularly when working in cold conditions, e.g. due to moisture &lt;em&gt;condensing from the air onto the cooling surface&lt;/em&gt;. Here your shellac doesn't need to do that neat trick for water to show up!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An additional concern is that fully shellacking now will only slow drying and this wood has a lot of water to lose, which can already be expected to take a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my recommendation would be to just &lt;strong&gt;apply one coat, or two thinner coats now&lt;/strong&gt; and if the project has held up OK as it dries to &lt;strong&gt;complete the finishing process, in a year to 18 months&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; For maximum enhancement of figure or depth (AKA &amp;quot;grain pop&amp;quot;) wood may be oiled just prior to the application of the first coats of shellac.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Hence one of the inherent problems with pin-type moisture meters, measuring at the surface or too close to it and possibly not compensating correctly for these drier readings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-05-19T05:08:18.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14593" CreationDate="2023-05-19T07:22:19.943" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it using circular saw with chisel or using wood router or something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes (to all of those options).  I made my first half-lap joint in school with a handsaw and chisel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What tools do you have? What tools could you justify acquiring for this and upcoming projects?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a table saw, a circular saw, &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; a router (plus hand saws and chisels).  I would probably:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use the circular saw (not the table saw) to cut the end of the lap joints (probably not to full depth),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;break up the body of the material to be removed with an additional cut or two&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;knock out most of the wood to be removed with a chisel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;finish the joint with a router&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage of that approach is that the finished joint is made by the router, which I find to be the most precise and controllable of my tools (so I can get the depths &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; right).  On the other hand &lt;em&gt;most&lt;/em&gt; of the wood is removed as sensible sized chunks rather than fine sawdust you have to keep out of your lungs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the sort of DIY you normally do, you may not be able to justify a router to yourself and SO.  In that case I would use the circular saw to cut almost exactly to depth with several cuts a few mm apart, and then use a hand chisel to finish off.  (I can't imagine doing DIY without a circular saw.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1646" LastActivityDate="2023-05-19T07:22:19.943" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14596" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-19T16:57:06.993" Score="0" ViewCount="111" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X19nD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X19nD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;I'm currently trying to build a modern chaise with only two legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DHzSe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DHzSe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;I will attach a link to it below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steps I have done:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plywood 3/4&amp;quot; cut them into dimensions of the chaise and created a frame and attached it to 3/4&amp;quot; board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once that's done got four 14.5&amp;quot; rounds and attached them with 2x4s for the required height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attached parallel 3/4&amp;quot; plywood to both legs and attached it to the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the issue happens to be when I sit on one end the legs are tilting a bit which tells me it's pulling the other end. But since I'm new to this I need any help you can provide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.westelm.com/products/mp-fluted-base-chaise-73-h11541/?catalogId=71&amp;amp;sku=6987794&amp;amp;cm_ven=PLA&amp;amp;cm_cat=Google&amp;amp;cm_pla=Furniture%20%3E%20Benches&amp;amp;region_id=668460&amp;amp;cm_ite=6987794_14465514686&amp;amp;gclid=CjwKCAjwvJyjBhApEiwAWz2nLVnU7yx-1wSQKVfKmNws_-8-yYNVjzr1UBBZBbCJ0Ix9Ub32Mf5jpxoCh3EQAvD_BwE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.westelm.com/products/mp-fluted-base-chaise-73-h11541/?catalogId=71&amp;amp;sku=6987794&amp;amp;cm_ven=PLA&amp;amp;cm_cat=Google&amp;amp;cm_pla=Furniture%20%3E%20Benches&amp;amp;region_id=668460&amp;amp;cm_ite=6987794_14465514686&amp;amp;gclid=CjwKCAjwvJyjBhApEiwAWz2nLVnU7yx-1wSQKVfKmNws_-8-yYNVjzr1UBBZBbCJ0Ix9Ub32Mf5jpxoCh3EQAvD_BwE&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13277" LastEditorUserId="13277" LastEditDate="2023-05-20T15:20:05.260" LastActivityDate="2023-05-23T04:46:02.133" Title="Making a modern chaise on two cylinder legs stability issues" Tags="|wood|plywood|weight-capacity|stability|legs|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14597" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-20T21:17:49.540" Score="0" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made the platform/bed area last year out of cherry and now I'm making the head board section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a little perplexed on the correct methods to use.  I know when I did the platform end that the joinery wasn't the best for wood movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using Cherry&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shelving will be attached with dados or possibly sliding dovetails if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front is basically 2-12&amp;quot; wide curly cherry that will be edge joined. I added the pic of the main front wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EHh4Q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EHh4Q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wood orientation&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RiV14.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RiV14.png&quot; alt=&quot;Arrows show wood expansion directions&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V1XJR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V1XJR.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Better grain depiction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13286" LastEditorUserId="13286" LastEditDate="2023-05-21T15:42:14.203" LastActivityDate="2023-06-21T03:02:20.273" Title="Head board with shelves, what joinery would you use for wood movement?" Tags="|furniture|hardwood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14596" CreationDate="2023-05-21T16:46:48.640" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a few things going on that will make this feel less stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, and I'm not 100% sure about this, so possibly ignore, but it looks like in copying the design, you've stretched the main deck wider than 30&amp;quot; and shrunk the diameter of the feet fractionally. This won't be a huge deal, but everything counts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, the deck looks like 1/2&amp;quot; OSB, and the combination of 1x2, 1x3, and 1x4 (we'll call all that the &amp;quot;subframe&amp;quot;, for lack of a better term) probably isn't sufficient to make that into a stiff surface. It can help to drive a bunch of 1-1/4&amp;quot; screws from the top side through the subframe. The 1x4 that turns into a 1x3 on the right side of the picture isn't helping as much as it should -- a continuous piece of wood would be much better. To stiffen this surface, add more wood, with screws from the top side of the OSB. To really stiffen this surface, make a torsion box with another layer of OSB on the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, and the biggest issue, is that you've stacked flimsy 1x2 rails on top of different subframe members. It's not clear how these are attached (except for a couple of visible t-nuts), but you need to pack the empty space between the legs and the top with solid wood. That means a 1x6 (or bigger, if it'll fit) between the main subframe and the two 1x2 rails, and 3 strips (as wide as possible) between the subframe and the feet. The end goal is that the tops of the feet have wood between them and the OSB top. Now attach from the top side of the OSB through the padding, into the tops of the feet with plenty of 3&amp;quot; screws. Predrill clearance holes in the OSB and the 2 layers of packing, and pilot holes in the foot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Parenthetically, it's not clear to me why you opted to add those 1x2 rails that run sideways. If they're needed for stiffness along the 6' axis, put them out at the edges. (Better yet, put them on edge around 4 sides like a table apron, as opposed to on the flat.) As they're placed, they're not really helping and will cause upholstery trouble later on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2023-05-21T16:46:48.640" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14596" CreationDate="2023-05-21T17:48:58.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The design and construction is inherently unstable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would do better to remove the 1x material and build the platform with two or three layers of plywood laminated together using glue and screws. That should remove any flex in the surface as weight is applied to the chair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attach the pedestals directly to the platform surface with four or more fasteners each. The flat surfaces of the platform and the tops of the pedestals fastened together should prevent (or greatly mitigate) the platform shifting on the pedestals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might encircle the platform with solid wood (maybe 1x3 or even 2x3) to hide the edges and for some added rigidity for the platform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After taking the steps above to improve the stability of the construction, there remains a possibility that the entire structure, as designed, would be prone to tipping if someone sat on the extreme edges or the corners.  &lt;strong&gt;This concern extends to the original design as well. The chair may need larger diameter pedestals to be entirely stable.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furniture needs to be designed and built to account for the &amp;quot;odd&amp;quot; things people subject it to. For example, will this support three or four people along the edge? What if the people are engaged in activity more dynamic than just sleeping or sitting on it? What if someone sits on the end or corner? What if two people sit on an end?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2023-05-22T15:58:10.567" LastActivityDate="2023-05-22T15:58:10.567" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14597" CreationDate="2023-05-22T02:44:47.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have two sketches suggesting different wood grain directions on the panels.  The photo you show orients the grain horizontally.  Since wood expands and contracts across its width and depth, but not its length it is important that you orient all grain in the same direction so that they move together at the same rates.  As for joining the pieces, you can simply finish the edges and glue them together and they will hold very well.  (The glue joint actually may be stronger than the wood itself.) You may want to consider a lap joint when joining pieces at 90 degrees such as the sides to the top.  This will increase their strength slightly and make any differences in the wood grain or colors less noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also suggest viewing a few woodworking instructional videos before trying to glue up these large boards. You will need to properly prepare the edges square to the face and true across the length for good contact. You will also need a good, flat table to support the assembly and  plenty of clamps to press the boards together and hold them securely to the table during the glue setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also consider that the 12&amp;quot; wide boards shown in the photo, while lovely may have a tendency to warp. You can address this by securely fastening them every few inches vertically to an internal frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2023-05-22T02:44:47.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9704" CreationDate="2023-05-22T03:21:23.220" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would look for a water based spar urethane and test it out. All oils are going to darken and mostly yellow or amber the wood.  Water based products have a tendency to not amber or yellow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use &lt;a href=&quot;https://centurionwoodcoatings.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://centurionwoodcoatings.com/&lt;/a&gt;, but not sure if they a product that is recommended for outdoors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13286" LastActivityDate="2023-05-22T03:21:23.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14602" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-22T11:31:24.543" Score="2" ViewCount="184" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a typical wooden tool tote, the sides have grain running horizontally, but what is the best way to run the grain for the ends?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like it would be better to make them with vertical grain strength-wise, but then you have a joint between the ends and the sides with the grain running in opposite directions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you make the ends with horizontal grain, they match up with the sides from an aesthetic and wood-movement perspective, but then you’re putting stress perpendicular to the grain when you lift it by the handle. Is one way significantly better than the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13291" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-05-22T14:25:41.817" LastActivityDate="2023-06-04T05:21:51.693" Title="Grain direction for ends of a wooden tool tote" Tags="|joinery|strength|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14602" CreationDate="2023-05-22T15:34:36.797" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like it would be better to make them with vertical grain strength-wise&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes it makes most sense to run the grain vertically on the sides for strength and this is one reason this is the orientation that's most commonly seen. Do note however that with the high handle position there's actually a weak point there, due to the &amp;quot;short grain&amp;quot; above the hole or handle mortise&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but then you have a joint between the ends and the sides with the grain running in opposite directions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yup, this makes for a cross-grain situation which woodworkers have to be wary of&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here it's not a big deal for a few reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;when this design originated these would nearly always have been nailed together, and no glue used;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;typically the joint is not excessively long;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;these are utility items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nailed connections can allow for a surprising amount of flex or movement. When screws are used instead as is probably more likely these days you can either ignore the movement for smaller totes, or for larger/deeper ones drill oversize clearance holes (or elongate them into short slots) to allow for movement; screws should be just tight in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although there are definitely exceptions, totes tended not to be particularly deep so the total movement in the sides wasn't excessive. Where a tote&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; was deep there could indeed be a problem, and one or more splits in the sides of historical examples &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; known.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because these were utility items if a split did occur the craftsman who build it might have been disappointed, but it didn't matter structurally and probably nobody else cared or noticed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other options include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;deliberately choosing wood for minimal movement (whether by species or cut);&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;build the tote from plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Historically totes were often made from pine, and somewhat surprisingly pine doesn't move much (white oak moves a lot more for example). In addition, or instead, quarter-sawn or rift-sawn boards could be chosen for their lower movement coefficient (roughly half).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While plywood is not nearly as tough or stiff as solid wood it can be more than adequate for this sort of thing and possibly with a little reinforcement can last decades of not-careful use — as can be seen by the many plywood totes and tool boxes used by working pros that withstood decades of use and are still around to be sold for inflated prices in antique outlets ^_^&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you make the ends with horizontal grain, they match up with the sides from an aesthetic and wood-movement perspective, but then you’re putting stress perpendicular to the grain when you lift it by the handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yup. Wrapping the grain around the sides can look great and if it's something you'd prefer to do for aesthetics you can take steps to compensate for a tendency for the top of the side to split off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nails, screws or dowels could be spaced along the top that go deep enough to reinforce the wood past the likely split line; these would work best if inserted dovetail fashion, with some or all at opposing angles such as \ \ / / or / \ / \&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A metal strap could be attached to form the entirety of the top of the handle enclosure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doubling up the thickness of the wood internally or externally, possibly with the grain at an angle to form a crude plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; And could do with being reinforced as a result, e.g. with a cross-grain dowel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Someone may unthinkingly say something to the effect that this is something we should avoid completely but that's actually impossible — the joint between a table leg and the rails/stiles is a cross-grain joint, but of course it's one of the fundamental joints in all of woodworking!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Or anything with similar construction, such as a five-board chest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-06-04T05:21:51.693" LastActivityDate="2023-06-04T05:21:51.693" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14596" CreationDate="2023-05-22T20:44:31.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the issue happens to be when I sit on one end the legs are tilting a bit which tells me it's pulling the other end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much does your version weigh? The one from West Elm says that it weighs 154 lbs, which seems like quite a lot for a simple platform with cushion. It's a good bet that those two pedestals are weighted with something, and that all that weight improves the stability of the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do the same thing, but it'll be easier if you change the pedestals so that the 2x4's are each turned 90° and there's plenty of open space in the center. There are lots of inexpensive materials you can use to add weight. 50 lb bags of play sand cost around $7 each near me, and 80 lb bags of concrete mix cost even less. Adding water to the mix will give you an even heavier product at no added cost, but of course it's a little more work. With the supports turned, it looks like a 5 gal bucket would fit in the middle of each pedestal, so a bucket might make a useful form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2023-05-23T04:46:02.133" LastActivityDate="2023-05-23T04:46:02.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14605" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-23T02:58:08.240" Score="2" ViewCount="190" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ANQtV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ANQtV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reclaimed wood floors were installed 7 years ago and maintenance recommendations was to buff and repoly every 5-10 years…I did this with the same company that installed the floors.  The floor finish obviously did not bond with the wood and the surface immediately peels from dog's feet, a fingernail scratch, or other pressures on the floor.  Of course, the contractor does not want to take responsibility for the floor, is not bonded, and is not guaranteeing the work. How do I repair the floors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13297" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2023-05-23T14:36:41.667" LastActivityDate="2023-05-23T14:36:41.667" Title="Peeling floors polyurethane" Tags="|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5949" CreationDate="2023-05-23T20:19:08.800" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Problem is the oxalic acid.  I'm in the midst of the same issue.  I forgot to add Borax to the water when wiping off the acid and now my poly is sticky after 3 days with a fan on it. Looks like I'm going to have to re-sand the floor, wipe with Borax solution, and THEN re-poly.  Good luck to you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13302" LastActivityDate="2023-05-23T20:19:08.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14608" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14611" CreationDate="2023-05-25T07:57:30.597" Score="2" ViewCount="133" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to replace a wooden garden gate which has rotten over time. Lacking much experience myself, my first thought was to copy the existing design. However, I don't know who made it or what their qualifications were, and I wasn't able to find any information online about the specific method of bracing used, so I'd like to ask the question here: Is the bracing method used for this gate a valid method or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HHTqo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HHTqo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rotten garden gate&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When searching online, it seems like most people will recommend a single diagonal brace from the top left going down to the bottom right (the right being where the hinges are) whereas some would recommend a cross brace. However, I haven't come across a brace like the one in the gate I have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13309" LastActivityDate="2023-05-25T14:31:16.587" Title="Is this a valid way to brace a garden gate?" Tags="|joinery|strength|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14609" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-25T13:07:57.903" Score="0" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old piano made in Czechoslovakia it's somewhere between 80-105 years old. The brand/maker/company's name is Weinbach. It no longer works because all the notes are ripped out i want to turn it into a desk, but i have to sand down the paint to repaint it but i don't know if it's safe. Thanks for the help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13311" LastEditorUserId="13311" LastEditDate="2023-05-26T04:14:54.837" LastActivityDate="2023-05-26T04:14:54.837" Title="Is there lead paint on my 80-105 year old piano?" Tags="|toxicity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2023-05-27T14:39:09.750" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14609" CreationDate="2023-05-25T13:19:47.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no way for us to know.  But it is old enough that it is certainly a possibility.  So your options are to either have it tested, or assume that is has leaded paint and take the proper precautions when dealing with leaded paint removal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One option would be to use paint remover to limit how much paint is air born by not sanding it (as much)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2023-05-25T13:19:47.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14608" CreationDate="2023-05-25T14:31:16.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both diagonal brace options should work.  The key thing here is to make the entire gate work as a single beam.  The challenge is that the gate is composed of individual pieces only secured at the top and bottom with a few nails/screws.  This allows the entire gate to rack out of square with the only resistance being at the T &amp;amp; B connections of the slats.  By adding the diagonal(s), securely connected to each slat, the gate will now act like a single panel with the racking stress transferred to the hinges. However, now the gate will want to pull away from the post at the top. The force pulling it away is increased by the wide width and weight of the gate itself. The solution here is to ensure that the hinges are strong enough and well secured to the post. Likewise, the post must be large enough and with a substantial foundation to prevent it from rotating with the force of the gate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2023-05-25T14:31:16.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14612" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-25T20:52:59.213" Score="0" ViewCount="318" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love the look of black bison wax on oak as a way to really bring out the grain. (see example photo)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until now I've only used rubio monocoat as a finish. It's pretty much impossible to mess up and it provides a good level of protection for the stuff I'm building. Now I'm working on a white oak bookcase and want to incorporate black bison wax + my usual rubio monocoat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can hardwax oil finishes (like Rubio) and furniture wax (Black Bison Wax) be combined? In what order should they be applied to the work piece?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zHBUa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zHBUa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2023-05-25T20:52:59.213" Title="How to apply Rubio Monocoat and Black Bison Wax to white oak" Tags="|finishing|furniture|oak|wax|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8119" CreationDate="2023-05-25T22:07:16.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I make plunge cuts as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tilt the saw forwards to that the front edge of the baseplate (aka &amp;quot;shoe&amp;quot; is resting on the work piece. The back edge of the baseplate is elevated so the blade and blade guard are held clear of the workpiece.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Align the notch in the baseplate with the cut line and square the front edge of the baseplate with the cut line. Not that the front edge of the baseplate is at right angles to the saw blade, so if this is square to the cut line, the saw blade will enter parallel to the cut line.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keeping the front edge of the baseplate in contact with the workpiece, use one hand to raise the blade guard and hold it in a raised position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the saw still off, slowly lower the blade to make contact with the workpiece and make any fine adjustment to the angle of the cut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raise the blade slightly, again keeping the front edge of the baseplate in contact with the workpiece, and still holding the blade guard in a raised position, engage the saw and lower the blade to make the plunge cut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the baseplate of the saw is in full contact with the workpiece, you can release the blade guard and continue sawing as normal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The point of all this is that the front edge of the baseplate keeps the saw steady and aligned with the cut line, and provides a pivot that the saw can rotate around as it makes the plunge. This makes it possible to make the plunge portion of the cut one-handed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I learned this technique and several others from this video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/jDfpl1_I904?t=526&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Skil Saw Pro Tips&#xA;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding safety, this is for sure not a method that will be found in the manual. I'm not sure I can speak to all the ways this might go wrong. Kickback is the obvious one - I'm careful to keep my body out from behind the saw so that if there is a kickback it won't be coming towards me. Obviously a well supported and secured workpieces is key to safety too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2059" LastActivityDate="2023-05-25T22:07:16.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14593" CreationDate="2023-05-26T15:04:45.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a beginner in woodworking, and will admit to only having tried making joint cuts a handful of times. Because I'm not comfortable working with jigs yet, I use manual tools (coping saw, handsaw, wood chisel, etc). It gets the job done and the result is not too shabby.&#xA;Long way of saying you don't necessarily need power tools to make your joints. It's more time-consuming, but I figure it's the best way to learn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13314" LastActivityDate="2023-05-26T15:04:45.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14616" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14619" CreationDate="2023-05-29T19:06:18.737" Score="1" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for corner clamps. One type I have come across consists of an L-shaped piece of metal or plastic and then we use those along with some other bits to create a corner clamp. The problem is that, all of them have some negative reviews where a person says that the clamps they got are not exactly square and/or not even square with each other (if they bought set of 4).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some international standard that corner clamp must comply with that I can look for to be sure that it has been manufactured to a high standard and I can be sure that it will definitely be square?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12906" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-06-02T09:59:09.463" LastActivityDate="2023-06-02T09:59:09.463" Title="Corner clamps, standards/quality" Tags="|clamps|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14616" CreationDate="2023-06-01T19:18:53.967" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some international standard that corner clamp must comply with that I can look for to be sure that it has been manufactured to a high standard and I can be sure that it will definitely be square?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None that I'm aware of. Woodworking tools normally don't need to be so perfectly precise that they require calibration or certification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you're doing a lot of framing or box making, you probably don't need dedicated corner clamps at all. Just cut a block of wood at 90° and use regular clamps to clamp your frame, box, cabinet sides, etc. to the block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's an easy way to check whether the corner of the block is square or not: line one side of the block (let's call it side A) up on an edge that you know to be straight, such as the edge of a sheet of paper. Use a sharp pencil to draw a line along the adjacent side of the block (side B), i.e. the one that's perpendicular to the paper edge. Next, flip your block over so that side B is again on the line you drew and side A is again exactly lined up along the edge of the paper. Trace side B with the pencil again. If the two lines line up exactly, the corner is 90°; if they diverge, then the corner isn't exactly 90º.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2023-06-01T19:18:53.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14620" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-03T05:21:23.880" Score="0" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a trim router with a 1/4in shank size and need to flush trim plywood that is 30mm thick. All flush trim bits that I could find which are long enough are for 1/2in shank routers? What are my options and which one should I go with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I though about buying a 1/4in to 1/2in adapter, but I am worried that the adapter may be too wide. This is the 1/2 flush trim bit I set my eyes on: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.freudtools.com/products/44-108&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.freudtools.com/products/44-108&lt;/a&gt;. As for an adapter, I would get something generic from Amazon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A shorter 1/4in flush trim bit and an extension, so the bearing can reach the reference surface to glide on. Once the first pass is done, I would move the flush trim bit up (now riding on the first pass' trimmed surface) and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions are welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13333" LastActivityDate="2023-06-08T20:45:09.400" Title="Flush trim bits too short for 1/4in router" Tags="|router|router-bit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14620" CreationDate="2023-06-03T12:42:30.663" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Extensions and adapters,etc. are just going to get in your way I think. Get a bit with a longer cutting surface:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jWZcz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jWZcz.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07PYNRBN4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/Nikou-Router-Bits-Straight-Woodworking/dp/B07PYNRBN4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This is an &amp;quot;almost random&amp;quot; example, not an endorsement or specific product recommendation.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2023-06-08T20:45:09.400" LastActivityDate="2023-06-08T20:45:09.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3592" CreationDate="2023-06-05T23:54:16.263" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the wood.  If it is an Ash bat, it is on one side.  A maple bat it is 90 degrees offset.  I learned this (also) at the louisville slugger factory/museum while on its official tour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13338" LastActivityDate="2023-06-05T23:54:16.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14624" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-08T16:31:18.257" Score="0" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first home woodwork project was this bench/bookcase. It is pretty sturdy but wobbles a little. I would like to reinforce it on the back but would love some guidance on what would be best. It currently has two brace joints at each end and four connectors on the middle support. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OkZDz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OkZDz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dimensions are H19.5in. by L8ft by W11.5in&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13345" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-06-09T06:46:46.943" LastActivityDate="2023-06-09T06:46:46.943" Title="Recommendations for making bench more sturdy?" Tags="|strength|weight-capacity|stability|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14624" CreationDate="2023-06-08T17:31:32.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just putting a couple triangles in a couple corners on the back would stiffen it up A LOT.  as long as the triangles were well fastened to both a vertical and horizontal piece.  Even some 1/4&amp;quot; veneered plywood would work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2023-06-08T20:34:11.450" LastActivityDate="2023-06-08T20:34:11.450" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14627" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-09T18:08:19.620" Score="2" ViewCount="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;My kitchen is missing a drawer. I have rebuilt the box but need help finding or creating a replacement drawer face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have looked at hardware stores and they don't seem to have the correct style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a better place where I could purchase the drawer face?&#xA;Is there somewhere that would build one for me? Router a blank?&#xA;I have a router but I'm not sure I correct bit would I be able to purchase a blank slab face and do it myself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help in completing my project would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R9JAm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R9JAm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13350" LastActivityDate="2023-06-10T06:59:13.790" Title="Drawer face replacement help" Tags="|router|drawer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14628" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14634" CreationDate="2023-06-09T18:27:43.520" Score="5" ViewCount="990" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a little while, I've been buying longer Southern Yellow Pine boards at 'ye olde orange home center' that contains pith.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is that I'll rip out the pith and some surrounding material and then leave a couple inches of more stable quasi quarter-sawn or rift-sawn boards. Considering the cost of the boards, seems like a pretty sweet deal if I can hack it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was able to do it a few times successfully. The boards I'd rip from the original 2x10 ended up being pretty stable, barely moving even after weeks after sitting out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem though, is it's &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;REALLY&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; hard to rip. The tension in the wood causes it to bind almost immediately. Terrifying on the table saw, especially on longer boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried cross-cutting 8' boards with my smaller battery-powered circular saw, but sometimes that saw would bind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried the bandsaw just now, put a ton of effort into setup and supporting an 8' board. The blade started to bind up and I smelled a little burning, so I cut the power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a picture of my latest attempt:&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y93fp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y93fp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/wEEDAOz&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://imgur.com/wEEDAOz&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this example, I started the cut initially on the table saw, didn't go well, then tried the bandsaw and the wood almost immediately closed up. Took some doing to free the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also left these boards in my lumber rack for weeks, maybe almost 2 months. I feel like it should be reasonably acclimated to the shop environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've checked my power tools for square (table saw, bandsaw) and it's pretty spot on far as I can tell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I missing something obvious? I realize wood tension is a thing, but I feel like it shouldn't be this hard. Is it me? Is it the wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13351" LastEditorUserId="12026" LastEditDate="2023-06-13T18:58:55.860" LastActivityDate="2023-06-17T01:42:14.467" Title="Having a hard time ripping inexpensive 2x10 lumber. Could use a little advice" Tags="|warp|pine|rip-cut|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14628" CreationDate="2023-06-09T18:39:32.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does your table saw have a riving knife?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5n1V7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5n1V7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;sub&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B08WHJD3VB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are supposed to help keep a board from pinching the blade when they are cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="1573" LastEditDate="2023-06-17T01:42:14.467" LastActivityDate="2023-06-17T01:42:14.467" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14630" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-09T18:55:29.843" Score="0" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been experimenting with veneering for box-making and other small scale items.  I'm not having much luck with the &amp;quot;PVA glue + iron&amp;quot; method.  Based on a few experiments it seems to work for me part of the time, but it seems tedious and a bit variable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I purchased an inexpensive &amp;quot;book press&amp;quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xJPUU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xJPUU.png&quot; alt=&quot;Vevor book press&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan is to make two platens out of MDF, laminating 2 pieces of 3/4&amp;quot; for each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When veneering, I will sandwich the piece(s) being veneered between those two platens with a piece of waxed paper on each side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concerns are twofold:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;distribution of pressure across the two platens, particular with veneer that likely doesn't have a uniform thickness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;where does glue squeeze out go?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The approach I'm ideating on is to introduce a slight &amp;quot;crown&amp;quot; in one of the platens using two pieces of tape arranged in a cross shape (or even a star shape):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ru8hM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ru8hM.png&quot; alt=&quot;diagram&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thought it that the pressure would be applied first along the the &amp;quot;tape lines&amp;quot;, and as pressure is cranked up, the squeeze out would seep out the lower areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should I arrange this?  Should I introduce a soft, slightly compressible material (like cloth) into the veneer sandwich?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any sage advice to share?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8429" LastActivityDate="2023-06-09T18:55:29.843" Title="How to use a book press for veneering?" Tags="|veneer|clamps|boxes|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14628" CreationDate="2023-06-09T19:36:07.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds unusual.  I have no experience with SYP, but I find it to be a pretty easy go ripping 2x green lumber when compared to hardwood with a lot of internal tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you tried doing a 1/2 depth rip cut to relieve some of the stress?  I’ve had good luck with that method in hardwoods that may have been questionably dried?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8429" LastActivityDate="2023-06-09T19:36:07.563" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14627" CreationDate="2023-06-10T00:33:36.707" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In theory, there are places where you could purchase the drawer face.  If you can find one, you should also buy a lottery ticket because you would be exceedingly lucky if the house wasn't built this decade :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few suggestions that will depend on what's available in your area and your budget.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Go to a shop that specializes in trim/moulding/millwork.  Go when you think it will be slow.  Show them the drawer.  They will be able to duplicate it exactly by having a custom knife ground and run the single drawer.  This will cost a lot more than it's worth, but is possible. ($150 - $200 for the custom knives, plus setup/material costs and probably minimums to deal with).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The shop may have a similar profile on hand, and can run it for you.  Or they might suggest a bit size/style you can purchase.  I can't quite see from the photo but it's something in the Ogee family.  I'm not an expert here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you can find a bit that is close, do that!  Do a few test pieces and try to make adjustments through sanding or using moulding planes (you'd want to pick up a small hollow and round off the local used market).  Don't underestimate the power of sand paper wrapped around various size dowels.  That could be fun, or completely maddening!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how good you do with #3 it may be an awesome match, or it could stick out like a sore thumb.  If the latter, consider swapping that front for another in your kitchen.  If you have a lone cabined in one spot (separated by the stove for example) you can move the oddball front to that spot and use its former front for the high visibility area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In the spirit of small projects becoming large ones :) you could 'redo' all of your drawer faces with something that isn't a dead on match for the existing but fits with your current lowers and uppers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it were me, I'd shop for the router bit, do some strategic sanding and call it done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8429" LastActivityDate="2023-06-10T00:33:36.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14627" CreationDate="2023-06-10T06:53:37.490" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should absolutely be able to closely or exactly replicate this yourself if you have a router, possibly with some careful scraping or sanding to refine results&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. You'll need a router 'table' but it doesn't have to be a formal router table, the most basic stand-in will work fine if you're careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you don't trust your online shopping skills you'll need to do some boots-on-the-ground shopping to identify the bit or bits available to you that will be needed to closely match this profile if its dimensions are unusual (can't tell from the photo).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; quite possible you'll find one bit (a Roman ogee bit) that will be a close match by itself, which would then need no or minimal scraping/sanding to refine the profile. But no way to know in advance, so I'd suggest you go in preparing to have to route the profile in stages with 2-3 bits&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some notes on a few possibly not-obvious points that may be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your starting blank must be the right size, including exactly to thickness &lt;em&gt;after the front is fully sanded&lt;/em&gt; before you start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Time spent looking for a good grain match to the existing drawers (or just the one drawer that will be closest to the new one) will not be wasted&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remember to route the end-grain surfaces first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now obviously the prospect of it possibly requiring 2-3 bits raises the question: will it be worth it? This is obviously partially a judgement call for you to make, but purely on a monetary basis it's possible that if there are any local woodworkers or small shops that do kitchen work in solid wood that they could knock one of these out, using their existing wide selection of router bits, for a very modest price. Honestly, I'd expect it to cost less than the bits if you buy decent bits and are paying full retail&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then all you have to do is face the prospect of getting a colour and finish match :-o&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Late thought, it would probably be useful to ask for help on this on a dedicated router forum where you'll get responses from a large pool of members which includes numerous professionals and semi-professionals, some of whom I'd bet are used to solving this sort of problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; It's normal to have to scrape or sand routed show surfaces anyway, so this is just an extension of what you'll be doing anyway. Even if the sanding needed is more than you'd really want to do remind yourself you only have to do it this one time. Just go to it and you'll be done before you know it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; E.g. a shallow ogee bit and a straight bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; If we assume this is red oak, you'll probably be tempted to look only at red oak but be driven by the grain you can see and not by species, or colour. What I'm getting as is you might find a piece of white oak that more closely matches than any of the red you see when you're buying. Since you'll be staining and/or using a coloured finish some variation between the colour of your board and the underlying wood of the existing fronts won't matter that much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt; But if you buy the bits you have the bits, with their potential for future use....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-06-10T06:59:13.790" LastActivityDate="2023-06-10T06:59:13.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14628" CreationDate="2023-06-10T07:17:07.433" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wax your riving knife well with paste wax, see if it makes a big enough difference. If you don't have any paste wax just scribble thoroughly with the butt of a candle, same as is done on hand saws to reduce friction and prevent binding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's normal with this sort of thing to suggest checking the riving knife is parallel to the blade (as well as to recommend using a short fence, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1034/is-a-shorter-rip-fence-safer&quot;&gt;Is a shorter rip fence safer?&lt;/a&gt;), but obviously the wood closing up and binding so severely on your bandsaw blade tells you the wood itself is mostly, or entirely, at fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is in fact normal behaviour — not an everyday thing, but it's common enough that it should be expected a certain proportion of the time, although it's perhaps not usually this pronounced. The wood is likely 'case hardened', see &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1678/can-it-be-predicted-when-a-board-will-bind&quot;&gt;Can it be predicted when a board will bind?&lt;/a&gt; for a little more on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note the suggestion to use wedges to force the saw kerf to remain open, which is a tip that comes down to us from before the days of power tools, so we know this problem is by no means a recent phenomenon!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/lumber/lumber-stress&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stress management&lt;/a&gt; on Wood magazine's site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-06-10T07:17:07.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14635" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14636" CreationDate="2023-06-13T02:35:56.320" Score="0" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some 300 yr old pine that I want to make a table out of. I was thinking of ripping into 6&amp;quot; wide sections and gluing together. I might leave some live edge on two long outside edges. The table will be 63&amp;quot;x 35&amp;quot;.&#xA;I'm wondering if there is much difference between the soft pine and a hardwood for glue ups?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/My1mo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/My1mo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13286" LastEditorUserId="13286" LastEditDate="2023-06-13T12:43:20.550" LastActivityDate="2023-06-13T14:45:22.610" Title="Are glue ups different between soft and hard wood?" Tags="|table-making|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14635" CreationDate="2023-06-13T14:45:22.610" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if there is much difference between the soft pine and a hardwood for glue ups?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is some, but from a practical workshop perspective there can be no effective difference. The key things still apply:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Well-jointed edges that are dead straight or &lt;em&gt;slightly&lt;/em&gt; hollow (a sprung joint/spring joint).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glue your edges while they are fresh&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply the glue and get the joints together pronto&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alternate clamps top and bottom and/or use cauls or other aids to help keep the glue-up flat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If using any type of PVA, yellow or white, apply &lt;em&gt;plenty&lt;/em&gt; of clamping force. PVA glues only produce maximum joint strength when high clamping pressures &lt;em&gt;at the joint face&lt;/em&gt; are exerted.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use clamping blocks if necessary to avoid the clamps denting the wood (&lt;strong&gt;note:&lt;/strong&gt; you will have to arrange something custom shaped for this purpose if you want to retain the live edge/waney edge on the outer two edges).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do a dry run before reaching for the glue!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Glueing differences between softwoods and hardwoods?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;In general there's no special consideration for softwoods. There is however some difference in ideal clamping pressures for soft wood and hard wood ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Multiple press releases and technical notes from Franklin, the makers of Titebond, give ranges of ideal clamping pressures but here's the table I've seen which makes it most plain that it's about wood hardness and not strictly wood type (as some people tried to make this about):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bZOxZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bZOxZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Recommended clamping pressure&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Longleaf pine, eastern red cedar and especially yew, all softwoods, are noticeably harder than a few commonly used hardwoods, including poplar, alder and esp. paulownia.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Within the hour, but under 15 minutes would be ideal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Applying glue to only one side of a joint and/or waiting too long before bringing the two pieces of wood together are common reasons for sub-par joint strength, especially in combination with under-clamping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-06-13T14:45:22.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14637" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14639" CreationDate="2023-06-13T15:00:40.900" Score="0" ViewCount="603" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yGOAU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yGOAU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Desk Layout&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for the terrible paint drawing. I'm looking to stick two desktops together to create an L-shaped desk. I honestly have no clue what I'm doing, I've barely done any woodworking in my life, if you would even call this woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I placed legs where the red circles are, would this desk setup be viable? The desk will only ever have a moderate load: a few monitors and a PC and maybe a printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, should I screw some kind of joint to the desks where the blue square is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll be glad to answer any questions for clarification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my materials:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Desktops: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.ca/product/belanger-laminates-inc-72-inch-x-25-5-inch-x-1-5-inch-unfinished-bamboo-wood-kitchen-countertop/1001602594&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.homedepot.ca/product/belanger-laminates-inc-72-inch-x-25-5-inch-x-1-5-inch-unfinished-bamboo-wood-kitchen-countertop/1001602594&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Legs: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/adils-leg-black-70217973/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/adils-leg-black-70217973/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finish: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.ca/product/live-edge-timber-co--omnia-natural-wood-oil-237-ml/1001592786&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.homedepot.ca/product/live-edge-timber-co--omnia-natural-wood-oil-237-ml/1001592786&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13360" LastActivityDate="2023-06-13T16:19:19.660" Title="Sticking two desktops together to make an L-shaped desk. Will this pattern for legs support the weight?" Tags="|wood|joinery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14637" CreationDate="2023-06-13T16:18:58.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My current desk is basically this set up.  so in general yes where you have the legs is where you will need them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where you have your bracket however, I would make it a lot longer to help spread the torque out some more, you might even let it go all the way to the back of the table and put another leg down there to help support or just move the one from the corner to line up with the front edge of the other table on the back, as you correctly guessed where you have the blue bracket mark is going to be the weakest spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope my description was clear enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2023-06-13T16:18:58.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14637" CreationDate="2023-06-13T16:19:19.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might need two more support legs in the back about half way between the existing corner legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will want to also have bracing in the joint. I would do something bigger than your little square. I diagramed two options. Red or Green. You can wood or plate steel for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dPLxZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dPLxZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13286" LastActivityDate="2023-06-13T16:19:19.660" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14640" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14641" CreationDate="2023-06-14T00:08:51.560" Score="2" ViewCount="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m building a storage bench for a community garden. My goal is to build it to last for 10 years with minimal maintenance. It is essentially a big wooden chest that is 24” x 20” x 72”.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to use 2x6 boards with alternating butt joints for the exterior similar to the picture below and then 3/4” plywood on the interior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ll use 3” deck screws, pressure treated pine wood, and set the bench on pavers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;QUESTION:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Are there any other recommendations to improve the durability of this storage chest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pWkz1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pWkz1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="255" LastActivityDate="2023-06-14T21:31:44.510" Title="Advice for wooden bench durability" Tags="|outdoor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14640" CreationDate="2023-06-14T08:35:08.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you have it pretty much covered using pressure-treated and deck screws, which are obviously intended for exterior use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The wood&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Decent pressure-treated softwood won't win any beauty contests after 10 years with zero maintenance (although it should still be holding together just fine given the total potential lifespan is four times this) but with a little care every now and then it should still look very good, and the construction should still be rock solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very much optional, but one extra step to consider doing if any of the board ends will be in contact with the pavers or facing the sky is to seal the end grain with epoxy&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The screws&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Buy a good brand or type with good user reviews and/or independent testing results as deck screws are very much not all equal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the thickness of the material, that this is softwood and that the screws will &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/7898/endgrain-screw-withdrawal-force/7988#7988&quot;&gt;bite into end grain&lt;/a&gt; I would recommend that you go with 4&amp;quot; screws for a bump in holding power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The plywood&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The plywood is a concern if water will get to it, so I'd suggest either waterproofing it thoroughly&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, or buying proper marine plywood (rather than just relying on exterior-grade ply, which is of questionable consistency these days).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; This is very simple and quick to do. Make a tape 'dam' around the board end first, burnish the tape down well. Mix your epoxy and pour or slather it on the end until it's completely covered; if the first application soaks away you might add a little more, but that's not strictly necessary. Peeling the tape off should present no difficulty because paradoxically epoxy doesn't bond well to the sticky side of masking tape. I'd use 30-min epoxy so you don't have to rush, but this can be done with 10-min or even 5-min epoxies if that's what is available and/or affordable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; One good option here being 'bed liner' which is 100% waterproof, flexible and very resistant to heavy stuff being dropped on to it :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-06-14T08:35:08.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14640" CreationDate="2023-06-14T21:31:44.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keeping everything dry will be key. Setting it off the ground on pavers is a good start. If possible, try to locate it somewhere sunny. There should be drain holes in the bottom (or leave gaps between the boards when you're building the bottom, just like if you were building a deck).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You didn't say how you're building the top, but it should be something that keeps the rain out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12348" LastActivityDate="2023-06-14T21:31:44.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14527" CreationDate="2023-06-16T03:27:22.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi woodworker and architect here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of the problem here is, as the other answers suggested, differential drying. The bigger part of the problem is the cause of the differential drying is not easily apparent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something I suspect is part of the problem is the panels are installed flush to the wall. As far as I can tell, the panels are uniformly cupped (curving in concavely). This indicates the textured portion is shrunken in (drier) and the back is larger (less dry). This suggests to me the textured fronts of the panels are drying more quickly than the backs because whatever lacquer (this is a generic terms often used to describe a wide range of chemicals) was used is vapor permeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To your question of why, it could be: the lacquer was damaged in transit or during install, improperly applied at the shop, applied correctly but from a bad batch, the holes from the nails might even be doing it, it might have been inevitable because edge jointed panels with no substrate or stabilization are exceedingly fussy... Troubleshooting an organic product like wood is as much art as science.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changes in weather from day to day in Anaheim could explain this if the coating has failed. It could also be due to differential thermal expansion caused by exposure to direct sunlight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't see in your OP any ask for a solution but I will offer them nonetheless. I will also preface this by saying, as have others, some cupping was probably inevitable given the design of this product, the short acclimation period, and the suggested means of installation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may be salvageable by controlling direct light enter the room using blinds and humidity using a dehumidifier for 4-6 weeks. If you get lucky, keeping the climate well controlled will allow the panels to acclimate evenly and hopefully relax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failing this, the panels might need to be removed and installed with a 1&amp;quot; furring strip. This will leave an air gap large enough for a convection current to form and allow the backs of the panels to breathe. A major issue I see here is the backs of the panels are flush to the wall and not exchanging moisture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the meantime, I suggest looking up cabinet or millwork shops in your area and try to get their eyes on it because with finished woodworking nothing beats a once over from someone who really knows their stuff who can get up close. One, because our ability to troubleshoot is limited by being digital, and two, it is more than likely you will need someone pretty handy to fix this installation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13371" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2023-06-16T03:29:32.013" LastActivityDate="2023-06-16T03:29:32.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14645" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-16T22:38:27.153" Score="2" ViewCount="177" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was gifted with a dining room table whose top is now worn enough that it's probably worth refinishing. Current evidence is that it's finished with shellac, though I need to make sure I'm not just seeing previously thin spots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is shellac, a new coat of finish will happily bond with what's there, if course, and I don't need to fully strip it first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is how to clean surface contaminants off before doing so, so they aren't sealed into the new finish. I'm willing to call the edge darkening &amp;quot;patina&amp;quot; and preserve it that way, but I want the center of the table basically clean before re-sealing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the recommended approach for a relative beginner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Just standard table cleaning,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wash with denatured alcohol until the scrub rags don't darken appreciably,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consider very light application of scraper even though I suspect the top is veneer,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2023-06-17T01:55:16.790" LastActivityDate="2023-06-17T06:09:16.663" Title="Prep for refinishing shellacked dining room table" Tags="|tabletop|refinishing|surface-preparation|shellac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14645" CreationDate="2023-06-17T06:09:16.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just standard table cleaning&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. Although it does depend on what exactly &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; mean by standard table cleaning :-) plus there's a caveat with shellac&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some level of this should &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; be step one in a refinishing project if the intent is not to strip (and sometimes worth doing even if you are going to strip) regardless if the piece is not visibly dirty or grimy. Dollars to doughnuts when you're done the cleaning liquid will be greyish, which tells you that you removed &lt;em&gt;something&lt;/em&gt;, even if it's only some dust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After drying repeat the process with clean water if you think it needs it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leave to dry for an hour or more before proceeding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wash with denatured alcohol until the scrub rags don't darken appreciably&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, not if the piece is indeed finished in shellac.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As already highlighted in the Comments by @Ashlar, alcohol is the standard solvent for shellac so you'd want to be very careful or avoid it entirely. Since there's no benefit to using it if you follow the below advice I'd avoid it entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider very light application of scraper even though I suspect the top is veneer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can, but I think you probably won't want to given the risk. Shellac is already a thin finish, despite appearances, and even light scraping with a single-edged razor runs the risk of exposing bare wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is wise to be cautious about going through veneer whenever we encounter it, but a lot of vintage and older furniture can actually withstand a certain amount of power sanding (!) as can be seen in &lt;em&gt;many&lt;/em&gt; MCM furniture restoration videos on YouTube. Which is to say, where it's appropriate to scrape you can probably get away with it in many/most instances&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, if the table &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; finished in shellac, which was already obsolete as a commercial finish before WW2, the veneer is likely not to be the paper-thin stuff we're now too familiar with :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again if a piece is old enough to have shellac as its finish there is a very good chance there is at least some trace of wax polish on the surface because this used to be standard practice and only fell out of favour in recent decades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wax removal&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Any wax present needs to be thoroughly cleaned off the surface prior to the application of any subsequent top-up finish (even if it is more shellac).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So after your careful standard cleaning you should wipe down with mineral spirits (UK: white spirit) and plenty of paper towels or shop rags – the idea being that you are dissolving and then picking up any wax present, then taking it off, not merely spreading it around as you would if you use the same paper towel/rag for too long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that there are commercial wax polish removers on the market, but their active ingredient(s) can be principally or entirely some equivalent of MS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Last step&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;To ensure adhesion the surface should be made matt/dull, so that you're following the best advice for new finish over old: &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/13069/good-methods-for-scuffing-sanding-ready-built-furniture-with-contours-for-repain/13074#13074&quot;&gt;clean and dull&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Shellac can respond poorly to water, so it's best never to get it really wet. As a result it's best to only use a cloth dampened in the warm, soapy water, work one area at a time and immediately wipe dry before moving on to the next area. For a table of medium size doing it in quarters is probably the way to go – whatever is covered by a comfortable sweep of your arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Pun intended, scraping is far less of a blunt instrument than sanding and is to be preferred over sanding &lt;em&gt;nearly always&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-06-17T06:09:16.663" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14647" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14652" CreationDate="2023-06-17T14:53:49.477" Score="1" ViewCount="595" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm refinishing our entire sunroom (we are getting new windows so it seemed like a good time, and apparently I'm a sucker for pain) and the staining isn't going as planned. The sunroom is a bit dark, so we wanted to lighten the wood, but my experiments so far are resulting in wood that is very similar to the original color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the image below, the pieces I stained I stripped with Citristrip, covered with plastic wrap for 12 hours, cleaned with steel wool + Kleen-Strip Mineral Sprits substitute for indoor use, dried for two days, sanded by hand 120 grit/180 grit/220 grit. Then I applied Varathane oil-based wood conditioner and the Varathane oil-based stain. As you can see from the image, the color is nowhere near the promotional image for Ipswich Pine or Golden Pecan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a similar experiment previously (didn't get pictures) but had only sanded to 120 grit, and got similar results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The five pieces of wood from left to right are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The original condition of the wood&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stained: Varathane wood conditioner (oil based) + Varathane golden pecan (oil based)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stained: Varathane wood conditioner (oil based) + Varathane ipswich pine (oil based)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paint stirrer last used with Golden Pecan&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Similar piece of wood after stripping (but not sanded yet)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BDS3i.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BDS3i.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;stained wood samples&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OXv1D.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OXv1D.png&quot; alt=&quot;varathane promotional image&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is this happening, what am I doing wrong, and what can I do to get closer to the desired color?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Additional information:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @Graphus pointed out, the reason seems likely that the wood itself is actually a darker wood and not a lighter wood. Since the windows are going to require some cutting, I trimmed off a small piece, did some sanding, and took the following picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sCIu2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sCIu2.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, the cut side of the wood is actually fairly rich already, which I guess explains why the wood isn't staining lighter. It's not exactly clear to me what's going on with the other pieces that are stripped but not sanded... my guess is that maybe it's just remnants of the Citristrip that I didn't get all the way out? I did try sanding one that was a bit lighter and the dark wood started coming out. I'm not sure why I didn't notice the darkness when I stained the pieces in the original question, maybe it was just a bit dark in the garage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not really sure what kind of wood this is, but if anyone can identify it I'd love some thoughts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: Window installer believe it is likely Gumwood, given the age of the house (1920's) and other houses in the area from that period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13377" LastEditorUserId="13377" LastEditDate="2023-06-20T02:40:57.400" LastActivityDate="2023-06-20T02:40:57.400" Title="Stained wood is darker than expected after stripping + sanding + staining" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14650" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14651" CreationDate="2023-06-18T13:41:30.133" Score="3" ViewCount="311" Body="&lt;p&gt;I could really use some advice on repairing the legs on my couch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As seen below, the two legs on the left side are tilting (it's not as visible on the other side):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UbmUJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UbmUJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Couch profile.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also snapped a picture of the small &amp;quot;compartment&amp;quot; inside of the couch (between the two legs on the left side), revealing some damage:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R2iE2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R2iE2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Couch inside.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yellow material behind the plywood is some sort of foam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't really know what to do and would appreciate any pointers. If more information is needed I will provide it. I'm sorry if this question isn't appropriate for this site and will adjust it as needed or remove it if required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13381" LastActivityDate="2023-06-19T13:59:20.143" Title="How can I repair the bent legs on my couch?" Tags="|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14650" CreationDate="2023-06-19T05:55:04.400" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry about your couch man. That freakin' sucks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount of work it would take you to get this piece of furniture ship-shape, based on its construction, is probably more than it is worth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had similar problems with a similar quality of construction piece of furniture and opted against a full repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if getting a new couch immediately is not an option and you need still need a couch I think you are in luck. I suggest putting it &amp;quot;up on blocks&amp;quot; -- something to git'er'done, until you can replace the couch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like the other commenter has said, a repair back to 100% or even 90% is probably going to entail taking the thing apart. As any DIY furniture person can tell you, with new tools and materials even seemingly simple fixes can get pretty expensive pretty fast. But if time and money (emphasis on time) are abundant (emphasis on abundant) then it is probably possible since nothing looks that badly broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I'd guess you're in a similar situation I was in with my couch where you just wanna watch TV and not have a pile of couch parts in the living room for weeks and weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, here's my thoughts on something down and dirty. Since the seat and the arm rest appear to be made of separate plywood carcasses, you should be able to discretely (read, not totally awful aesthetically) take the load off the failed leg/armrest module. From the looks of it a rough installation of four 2x4s in a box shape attached to the plywood from which the seat is constructed could be sturdy enough for most couch activities as long as whatever screw joint you come up with is snug and stout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could probably get away with literally putting it up on blocks, something like two off cuts from a 4x4 could suffice. That's what I ended up doing. But your couch is also much more stylish than mine was so I am guessing the hoopdie-chic option won't fly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps you on your way!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13371" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-06-19T13:59:20.143" LastActivityDate="2023-06-19T13:59:20.143" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14647" CreationDate="2023-06-19T14:36:24.763" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what you tell us you've done everything right. And again, kudos for doing tests so you caught this early! So why are you getting such a different result?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of it is because of a standard caveat in woodworking: wood varies. Some difference in stain outcome is &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; to be expected when you are colouring a different species than the manufacturer's sample, and in this case Varathane's example pieces are oak and your pieces are not oak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, you are working with stripped wood, and sometimes stripping does weird things to the surface fibres. I think this accounts for the remainder of the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But even given both of the above your results are &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; much darker, by any reasonable standard! Even more surprising since you used &amp;quot;conditioner&amp;quot; first, which should always result in a lighter (or much lighter) staining result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are certain tricks you can do to try to work around this (using what you already have) but I'd suggest switching to a different colouring product IF you continue with the original plan to stain the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First thing I'd try though would be to try &lt;strong&gt;clear finish by itself&lt;/strong&gt;, on the stripped and sanded wood and see how you like the appearance. Go through the entire finishing process you'll eventually be using, so if you'll use three coats on the project pieces do that on the test piece as well, applied in the same way with the same interval between coats + any light scuffing to de-nib; you'll need this to get a proper read on the finished outcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that colour isn't quite acceptable there's a good alternative colouring product for the DIY-level woodworker, &amp;quot;&lt;strong&gt;gel stain&lt;/strong&gt;&amp;quot;, which isn't a stain in the normal sense of the word, but instead a type of coloured varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As &amp;quot;gel stain&amp;quot; interacts much less with the surface fibres of wood it bypasses certain colouring issues normally encountered, and this property may allow it to give the colour you expect with this wood. But unfortunately you'll have to try it and see, since there are no guarantees with this sort of thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-06-19T14:36:24.763" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14654" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14655" CreationDate="2023-06-20T16:20:24.913" Score="2" ViewCount="541" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building the Christopher Schwarz &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/knockdown-english-workbench/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Knockdown Nicholson&lt;/a&gt; bench. This is my first foray into handtool building. I'm working on the aprons now and have cleaned up the boards and made them mostly flat on the faces. My question is, how flat is flat enough for the aprons? I understand that the top is the most critical and that generally flatter is better, but given that generally the aprons would be supporting boards while working edges and ends, is it important for it to be dead flat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13361" LastActivityDate="2023-06-20T21:26:05.230" Title="How flat should bench aprons be?" Tags="|workbench|hand-planing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14654" CreationDate="2023-06-20T21:14:41.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple answer is dead flat, with faces parallel, but that's too simplistic and it needs to be looked at a little closer if we're talking hand tools only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There actually isn't a single standard for flatness or parallel-ness, despite how it might seem in the era of power tools with the enormous amount of time and labour they save in basic four-squaring operations. In some furniture work it's actually not vital for both faces of a board to be flat, or parallel, since e.g. only one face is visible, or interacts with other pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could think of this as an extension of that. So, how un-flat is acceptable given that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the backs of the aprons interact with the halving joints/lap joints in the legs, so have to be flat enough for that to work;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the outer face of the front apron is a bearing surface when boards are held against it during edge planing (and for the occasional wide end that you can't shoot), so should be flat enough for that to work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leaves the outside face of the rear apron as the only face where it can easily be argued that it doesn't &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; to be flat. You could even leave it rough from the scrub/jack plane if you really wanted. Especially if it'll rarely or never be seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there's another way of looking at this given that you state they're mostly flat already — the bulk of the work has already been done and it's not much additional effort to get to flat, not if your longest plane's iron is good and sharp and you follow proper procedure. Assuming you're working on a decent surface for planing that isn't moving around on you a lot and robbing energy from each push!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe it would help to see someone doing this for reals, so take a look at this video from Frank's Workbench, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uevAeGeN5CY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stock Prep with Hand Plane vs Jointer/Planer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-06-20T21:14:41.790" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14654" CreationDate="2023-06-20T21:26:05.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say this is down to the tolerances of your work and how out of tolerance your apron would be. The bench is after all an expression of your own process and preferences -- no more, no less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I would want any workholding apparatus I'm on to be pretty reliably square, flat, and true. But that is because I would like to have the option to finely craft furniture and mill work with my bench. Any imprecisions in the tools in my process will be transferred into the work and will have to accounted for with addition checking and re-working as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To illustrate this in the context of an apron, let's say I am edge jointing some stock for a table top and that my apron has some twist in it such that the right side protrudes out 1/4&amp;quot; or 6mm. I, as a right-handed person, will have it clamped to the left side of my apron with an end vice, supported at the bottom with pegs, and on the right side with a hold fast or two. As I am doing my jointing at my warped apron, the work will have stress on it to conform to the apron and the middle of the span will be somewhat less stable. I couldn't tell you how much error this will impart, but I would expect at least some mistakes from an unsupported stressed worm piece. This error, repeated on every work piece, will be something around which I will have to work. This means I'm going to have to add extra steps to make sure what I am producing on the bench is dimensionally true adding a lot of time over the many years of work I hipefully will be doing at my bench. I wouldn't want that personally, even though I will probably never do production work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may not share these aspirations though. For instance if you're making a bench for a plant nursery/conservatory and will be making shelves to water young plants and prepare seedlings, a bit of imprecision is totally fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suspicion though -- since you're working off of a furniture makers' pattern -- is that you'd like to make some nice(-ish lol) pieces for inside your living spaces, your friends and family, and most importantly for your own satisfaction. I also suspect you're a hobbyist like me, meaning the bulk of your time is spent at your day job and chores. Free time is a precious thing. Setting yourself up at this early stage to have to work around as little as possible will have substantial compounding returns as you mature in the craft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's the case I would strongly suggest flattening your apron. It's a considerably difficult task and I totally sympathize if you're feeling daunted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also worth noting that, since your building a knock-down plan where the apron is a stand alone element, you could conceivably punt on flattening your apron to a later date when you're more experienced. There's probably trade-offs with having a warped structural element. But hey, you're not a machinist here and there's probably not reason to be counting thousandths of an inch in this. The most important thing is your enjoyment and that you're not stressing to the point you don't even want to swing a plane -- been there and it's no good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also be able to outsource the work to a cabinet shop who have an industrial planer. When I was buying the maple for my own top I expressed such self-doubts to  guy ringing me up at the lumber shop and he gave me his card saying he runs a shop and would be happy to square the top if it was too much for me and my garage sale #7 plane and hardware store bubble level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps and I wish you the best of luck and fun on your journey into handtool woodworking!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13371" LastActivityDate="2023-06-20T21:26:05.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14657" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-21T14:22:20.247" Score="1" ViewCount="210" Body="&lt;p&gt;I keep reading that treated wood needs to be dry before you paint it, but nobody says how dry. They say to spray on some water and see if it beads on the surface - but this test seems very error-prone. I thought I might buy a moisture meter to take the guesswork out of it, but a meter won't help if I don't know what the desired reading is. Can someone give me a number?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it makes any difference: this is outdoors, in a climate with warm summers, cold winters, and moderate precipitation year-round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12348" LastActivityDate="2023-06-21T14:22:20.247" Title="Correct moisture % when painting pressure-treated wood" Tags="|outdoor|pressure-treated|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14658" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14659" CreationDate="2023-06-22T00:26:43.587" Score="1" ViewCount="147" Body="&lt;p&gt;Real timber is expensive. Making long sheets requires joining smaller planks using glue with dowel or biscuits. It also suffers from deformations due to humidity. Engineering woods like MDF and Plywood are different and resistant to humidity induced changes since they do not have grain like real wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible to have internal structure of a furniture e.g bookshelf, computer desk or chest drawer to be made up of Chipboard, MDF or Plywood and then have a thin layer of real timber on top called &amp;quot;veneer&amp;quot; on the face and thin strips of the same wood for the ends. In this way, the final furniture will look like it is made up of expensive wood while the bulk of it is not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a reason why people buy wood made of real expensive timber e.g walnut and not buy something that just has veneer on the face and strips of that expensive wood on the sides but the bulk of the volume is made of engineered wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12906" LastActivityDate="2023-06-23T05:52:38.610" Title="Using only MDF or Plywood to make all furniture" Tags="|wood|plywood|mdf|chipboard|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14658" CreationDate="2023-06-22T07:02:31.113" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a reason why people buy wood made of real expensive timber e.g walnut and not buy something that just has veneer on the face and strips of that expensive wood on the sides but the bulk of the volume is made of engineered wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There will be multiple reasons. All of them will be legitimate for each individual, but some are more legit than others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One is simply the idea in the public's head that &amp;quot;solid wood is better&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;solid wood is a mark of quality&amp;quot;. And while there is certainly some truth in both of those statements this is still largely a &lt;em&gt;perception&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A related aspect of this same idea is that veneer is bad in some way, and again, there's something to that. But the presence of veneer is not at all reflective of furniture quality – some of the best furniture ever made historically made &lt;em&gt;extensive&lt;/em&gt; use of veneer, with virtually all show surfaces covered in it (although it wasn't plywood underneath).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some perfectly real reasons for choosing solid-wood furniture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Strength&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Solid wood is more resistant to damage e.g. from a hard and heavy item dropped on a flat surface&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; and much much more resistant to catastrophic damage as might be incurred from a collision or drop when moving, but even from something as simple as someone falling against a piece of furniture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another aspect is stiffness. A shelf made of solid wood — &lt;em&gt;even a lesser species&lt;/em&gt; — will generally be much more resistant to bowing than a shelf of similar thickness made from plywood, and the difference is even more pronounced with MDF or particleboard/chipboard. This isn't to say you can't use any manmade board materials for shelves, far from it, but they may need to be reinforced in some way, or made much thicker, to compensate for the innate lack of stiffness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Aesthetics&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;There can be a real aesthetic difference in the visible grain patterns. Almost always with factory-made panels/boards the discerning eye can spot that the item is not solid wood, because e.g. end grain isn't visible on both ends of a shelf or tabletop. Someone with a little more knowledge might be able to see that a surface is veneered because of the way that the bulk of modern veneer is cut&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; which produces a grain pattern that isn't seen in boards.... and once you're aware of how odd it looks it's very hard for it not to stand out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Longevity&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I think everyone will have seen an example or two which suggests that furniture made from modern manmade board material (especially cheap particleboard/chipboard, but also MDF) may not endure. Possibly the most common example is chipped edges and especially corners, where you can see through to the core material. Another is swelling at an edge from water intrusion, with associated peeling laminate or veneer. Solid-wood furniture can be much more resistant to edge/corner chipping and is the same material through and through, and basically doesn't exhibit the latter behaviour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cost&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Of course for many cost is a major factor, as it always has been.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But here's where it gets tricky. If you're thinking solid wood = more expensive that's not at all always true, and hasn't been for a long time. Since at least the days of MCM it is not the case that something using a lot of plywood will be cheaper than something made from solid wood. One need look no further than the iconic Eames lounge chair and ottoman for an example of some really, really expensive plywood ^_^&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there are many, many other examples. And in a typical modern furniture outlet in the West, a great deal of the expensive offerings are actually cheap furniture deliberately trying to look more expensive than it is, and hugely overpriced (I suspect most of this is markup, but I may be being too cynical).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; You'll still get a dent, sure, but it will often be more minor, can possibly be repaired (by steaming it out) and there's no risk of damaging a thin veneer layer and possibly revealing the cheaper material underneath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Most modern veneer is produced by &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2909/when-did-people-start-using-plywood-rather-than-real-hardwood/2913#2913&quot;&gt;rotary peeling&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-06-23T05:52:38.610" LastActivityDate="2023-06-23T05:52:38.610" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14660" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14661" CreationDate="2023-06-22T21:55:48.943" Score="2" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a beginning woodworker, and I've made a design for a side table. It's a small table, measuring 400x350mm (~ 16x14 inches). I'd like to make it in two types of wood, for the legs and the top. I was thinking about orienting the grain such that it runs vertically for the legs, and horizontally for the connecting leg pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was planning on just gluing the leg frame to the top, optionally with some structural reinforcement such a dominos or dowels. But I'm worried a bit that wood movement and expansion will be an issue, especially if I'm using two species of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will will movement be an issue with this design? And if so, what would be the best way to deal with it? Would orienting or matching the grain direction a certain way be enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rNRx1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rNRx1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13392" LastEditorUserId="13392" LastEditDate="2023-06-22T22:01:08.227" LastActivityDate="2023-06-23T05:43:20.893" Title="Side table design: will wood movement and expansion be an issue?" Tags="|design|wood-movement|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14660" CreationDate="2023-06-23T01:23:27.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you are gluing everything together, different types of wood should work just fine provided that top is solid wood and the wood grain on the top and the horizontals are in the same direction (that way each piece of wood expands and contracts at the same rate).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there are a number of considerations you should incorporate into your final design:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your leg structure looks more like a metal design than wood.  The curved corners might be achievable using a laminate/plywood material, but will not be easy to construct from solid materials (nor, possibly, as strong). Keep in mind that the leg assembly on each side must resist racking from front to back as well as side to side and you are putting complex joint assemblies at the place where the ability of the assembly to resist shifting from square is most pronounced. Such joints are certainly possible, but are more complex that a simple butt joint.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The legs are not cross braced in any way except at the top and this connection lacks an apron to provide support against racking. All the lateral force is transferred through the fastening between the top and horizontal leg members and it may not be enough if an unplanned force is applied the table.  If you screw the top to the horizontals, there will be strong tendency for the screw to pull out of the top.  Gluing the legs and top together will handle the stress much better.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you drag the table along a floor, the legs assemblies on each side will be pulled independently and are more likely to skew a bit and at different angles.  If you look at typical wood table design there is often a lower open shelf.  This provides additional bracing to keep the legs at the same width and square at the bottom.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2023-06-23T01:23:27.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14660" CreationDate="2023-06-23T05:43:20.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about orienting the grain such that it runs vertically for the legs, and horizontally for the connecting leg pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It &lt;em&gt;has to&lt;/em&gt; be done this way, this is just the way you build any rectilinear structure in wood. Ignore the round corners for the moment, you're just building something similar to a picture frame, or the perimeter of a frame-and-panel, sans panel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was planning on just gluing the leg frame to the top, optionally with some structural reinforcement such a Dominos or dowels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That could work, and wouldn't require reinforcement since as we know glue joints can be stronger than the wood itself...... saving the very relevant concern about how you'd do Dominos as a beginner! ^_^&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, whether you can/should glue depends on an aspect of the design that you haven't addressed in the Q, one which is the elephant in the room: &lt;strong&gt;which way is the grain oriented in the top?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(We've learned through experience not to go by the apparent grain direction in a render, because sometimes that's assigned arbitrarily and actually the intent is for it to be 90° to what's shown.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I'm worried a bit that wood movement and expansion will be an issue, especially if I'm using two species of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key issue here wouldn't be that there are two species involved, &lt;em&gt;that's actually a non-issue either way&lt;/em&gt; — with one grain orientation of the top wood movement is irrelevant, for the other you just need to allow for it&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in short, what you've asked about here is the least of your worries!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an ambitious design to say the least and while every issue I foresee (which may not be all of them!) is conquerable in one or more ways, actually building this successfully at your current level will I suspect be a mountain you can't yet climb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;An easier, and possibly not more expensive alternative&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If instead of building the leg structures from wood they were made from metal&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; all concerns basically go away. But note that I think this forces the choice of grain orientation for the top, and you have to be able to live with fasteners being visible on the outward face of the legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; In much the same way we allow for relative movement of the tabletop and the stiles of a standard table's apron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Aluminium or steel, but brass could maybe work although might be cost-prohibitive. For a number of reasons I think steel would be preferable here: easiest to find a fabricator, possibly cheapest and likely the strongest even if hollow-section material (square tubing) is used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-06-23T05:43:20.893" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14663" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-23T13:16:07.647" Score="1" ViewCount="695" Body="&lt;p&gt;What can I do to fix this? I have recently used a gel stain on this and allowed to dry for 3 days before going ahead to apply furniture varnish. I placed a table mat on it and the varnish peeled off. I followed the manufacturer's instructions and curing time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GNf7b.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GNf7b.png&quot; alt=&quot;varnish peeling off after applying on a recently gel stain after allowing to dry for 3 days&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used Dixie Belle No Pain Gel Stain. I did 2 coats allowing 6 hours in between. Then cured for 72 hrs before applying Good Home Furniture varnish water-based (clear). I applied 2 coats allowing 2 hours in between then left to cure for 15 hours before putting to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13394" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2023-06-28T15:55:47.953" LastActivityDate="2023-07-04T19:24:46.687" Title="Varnish peeling off dining table" Tags="|varnish|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14664" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14669" CreationDate="2023-06-23T13:30:15.357" Score="2" ViewCount="445" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to build a tree house and I bough plans for it. The plans call for 4x10 beams, which my local big box store doesn't carry. Can I get away with sandwiching 2 2x10 boards using glue and screws? I figure since all the load will be top to bottom, it should be OK. The beams will be attaching to a Tree Attachment Bolt (TAB). Here's the image of the support structure, with the 4x10 beams visible. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xFgTC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xFgTC.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13393" LastActivityDate="2023-07-29T21:28:38.963" Title="Treehouse plans call for a 4x10 beam. Can I sandwich a pair of 2x10 and secure them with glue and screws?" Tags="|outdoor|construction|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14665" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14668" CreationDate="2023-06-23T16:50:36.280" Score="1" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm restoring 60+ years old small spice rack for my mum - I've &amp;quot;unglued&amp;quot; it with a heat gun and now I don't know how to clean it - it's now in several small pieces, ranging 5cm to 30cm (2&amp;quot; to 12&amp;quot;) with thickness from 4mm to 1cm (1/8&amp;quot; to 3/8&amp;quot;), made from pine (probably) and it's quite dirty and black - mostly from grease (it was very close to the stove). It doesn't have any recognizable finish anymore, so it just looks like dirty planks of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to clean it, smooth-plane it, glue it back together, put some nice finish on it and give it to my mum for her birthday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I originally (before ungluing) thought, I would just plane the pieces until they look good again, but since most pieces are too thin, I feel this is not an option (there may be almost nothing left).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could just replace the thinner pieces, but the only value this spice rack has is a sentimental value and I don't want to replace anything if I can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm looking for some way to clean the wood (it doesn't have to look perfect) without losing too much of the wood (in thickness I mean).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I get no usable answers, I'll probably just use dishwasher soap, some steel wool and hope for the best - but I'm afraid I could ruin or warp those little pieces..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What safe and gentle method would you recommend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;After cleaning:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tested it on upper surface of the bottom (where spice jars would sit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First I used scouring pads with dishsoap, that made most difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Than I tried mineral spirits (naphta) which made it a little better but not much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally I planed it with a smoother plane - in the end I planed it from 6.2mm to 5.9mm (both sides planed) - i.e. I planed off 0.3mm (less than 1/64&amp;quot;) - mostly because there was a lot of raised grain (even before cleaning).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the rest of pieces I used only soap and planing, that was enough!.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The grease stains clearly haven't penetrated the wood deeply (which is what I was scared of) and it's great - I'm quite happy with the result!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the images from the test piece:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Original state:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Wkv2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Wkv2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Scouring pads with soap and a few minutes scrubbing:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SHRVL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SHRVL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Mineral spirits (naphta) + paper towels:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/miO2A.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/miO2A.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;After planing:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XLkNB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XLkNB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fcJk0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fcJk0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8416" LastEditorUserId="8416" LastEditDate="2023-06-25T12:55:07.987" LastActivityDate="2023-06-25T12:55:07.987" Title="Cleaning &quot;kitchen dirt&quot; from old spice rack pieces" Tags="|restoration|cleaning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14665" CreationDate="2023-06-24T01:29:52.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're nervous about planing, the most effective way to clean it I have found is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1/ Soap and a small amount of water with a nylon scouring pad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2/ Rinse the pieces well with warm water, then pop them in the oven at the lowest possible temperature you can (about 50C) for no more than 30 minutes. Flip them once or twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3/ If there are any tough stains remaining, they can be bleached out with either a commercially available wood bleach or a homemade solution of oxalic acid (no stronger than 1 tsp per 100ml warm water) if you're feeling confident. Both will need neutralising before further working. Follow instructions for the commercial stuff, and use either a bicarbonate solution or very dilute sodium hydroxide solution for oxalic acid. Bicarb is BY FAR the safest option. Hydroxide is being mentioned because most books mention it, I use it because I am used to it, and it will improve the appearance of the bleached wood grain through chemical &amp;quot;burning&amp;quot; of the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4/ Dry again in the oven, flipping from time to time - basically you're trying to dry the pieces so evenly that they don't have chance to warp much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5/ Use whatever stain you like to bring the wood to the colour of your choice, and apply your seal coat before regluing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13391" LastEditorUserId="13391" LastEditDate="2023-06-24T03:46:56.620" LastActivityDate="2023-06-24T03:46:56.620" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14665" CreationDate="2023-06-24T07:56:13.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to clean it, smooth-plane it, glue it back together, put some nice finish on it and give it to my mum for her birthday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a plan. If I had gone to the trouble of taking the item apart as you have this is precisely what I'd do — clean most of the grease from the wood, then plane off a minimal amount to get it spotless. Planing is an excellent way to get under a soiled surface to reveal the pristine wood hiding underneath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of whether the wood is bare or has traces of finish on it you can still clean it in the same ways, using the same things that you'd use to clean work surfaces near the cooker&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, including multi-surface cleaners or 'grease and grime' ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more woodworker-y solution is arguably to go straight to one or more organic solvents and these can work really really well, and they come with zero worries about introducing warping as there are with most commercial cleaning agents that are based on water. Not that I'd be overly concerned about warping, since you can can clean and dry carefully to avoid most/all of it (drying on edge being a top tip) and correct any that does occur using various tricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Solvent cleaning&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Based on experience cleaning a kitchen that hadn't been cleaned in &lt;em&gt;years&lt;/em&gt; I would strongly recommend the second option here, and specifically to use white spirit (US: mineral spirits). This is an absolutely brilliant grease cutter, and another advantage of not introducing water is you don't get that semi-emulsified gunk that can be so gummy and hard to rinse away. You will need plenty of white spirit and loads and loads of paper towels, probably much more than you're expecting, but this would be my method of choice. I would follow up with a final once-over with another solvent&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; if planing weren't the next step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be advisable to arrange good ventilation, or wear an appropriate respirator doing this because you'll be at it a while. Alternatively use the low-odour version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd wear nitrile or vinyl gloves to avoid defatting the skin on my hands (which can smart, a lot).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I originally (before ungluing) thought, I would just plane the pieces until they look good again, but since most pieces are too thin, I feel this is not an option (there may be almost nothing left).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because you're dealing with a softwood I suspect you won't be able to get the wood as spotless as you'd like with cleaning alone because the pale earlywood can be so soft. This is why I think cleaning the bulk of the grease off, then switch to planing, is a great option to get the wood absolutely spanking clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Planing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If you're good with your plane I wouldn't worry overmuch about the change in thickness, since you'll be losing approximately 0.05mm (yes point zero five, not point five) with each pass, which is literally too small a change to notice. I work with thin wood a lot, and wouldn't hesitate to plane something only 3-4mm thick (~1/8&amp;quot;) although I'd proceed cautiously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scraping&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If you're worried you won't be able to take shavings thin enough you could consider scraping with a card scraper or cabinet scraper instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite the reputation to the contrary you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; scrape softwoods, I do it all the time and have done for years (because when I started scraping I hadn't read &amp;quot;you can't scrape softwoods&amp;quot; haha).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; For light soiling the old standby of warm soapy water is perfectly sufficient, but for heavy grease (especially &lt;em&gt;old&lt;/em&gt; heavy grease which has had a chance to oxidise) it just won't cut it, pardon the pun. Even with boiling water and loads of Fairy liquid (US: Dawn) on a completely non-absorbent surface you're fighting an uphill battle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Meths (US: denatured alcohol) or acetone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-06-24T08:06:33.130" LastActivityDate="2023-06-24T08:06:33.130" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14664" CreationDate="2023-06-24T12:56:49.443" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Preamble: I'm not an engineer. Opinions here represent received wisdom from years as a carpenter. If you &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; the absolute truth, consult a professional engineer and get a stamp on your plans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of variables that go into wood beam sizing. Wood species and grade are the biggies. Predicted live load and acceptable deflection also matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a very general statement, 2-2x10s will span around 10'. So if your treehouse footprint is just a little over 20' per side, you should be fine. (I'm assuming that the middle of the long beams are lagged into the tree... otherwise, that changes that span dramatically.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to repeat the comments, if you switch from a 4x10 to 2-2x10, you'll need different joist hangers, eg Simpson LUS210-2Z, as opposed to LUS410Z. (There are also nicer looking hangers, like the HUC line, if you want.) Making a double 2x10 technically requires 10d nails at 16&amp;quot; oc around the edge. I'd use bigger nails (almost 16d), 3 or 4 at 16&amp;quot; oc, but not too close to the ends. Glue between doesn't really help much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Edit, to address glue comments: I agree completely that glue, properly deployed — flat mating surfaces, appropriate moisture content, good clamping, etc — is the strongest solution. In a framing setting, where wood can be wet, uneven, etc, one doesn’t want to rely on glue instead of mechanical fasteners. I think it’s the unpredictability of glue quality that makes professionals just ignore it completely.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Laziness abounds, so I'll cut and paste my lumberyard vs big box rant: Speaking of big box versus real lumberyard... lumberyard quality is usually higher, they’ll have 4x10s, they’ll deliver, they’ll have the hardware you need, and they’re probably price competitive with the big box. Plus you’ll save time/materials that you’d spend assembling your 2-2x10 beams. I get that this doesn’t help if you live more than 50 miles from a real lumberyard...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last but not least, handrail post attachment methods have improved in recent years. If your plans don't involve tiebacks (eg Simpson DTT-2Z), do a bit of research. For a little more work, a tieback will produce a much more solid and durable railing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastEditorUserId="503" LastEditDate="2023-06-26T14:21:06.140" LastActivityDate="2023-06-26T14:21:06.140" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14670" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14673" CreationDate="2023-06-24T20:07:54.153" Score="4" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it bad practice not to pick up the plane as you pull back for another pass? Why or why not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two great advantages I can see are that, first, you strain your wrists less, and second, you don't risk accidentally letting the plane down too fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But perhaps it dulls the blade? How much does it do so, if at all? Are there any other reasons &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; to keep the plane on the wood as you pull back?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13401" LastActivityDate="2023-06-26T15:42:13.910" Title="Is it bad practice not to pick up the plane as you pull back for another pass?" Tags="|plane|blade|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14670" CreationDate="2023-06-24T23:04:09.257" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my limited experience I've found only two cases where I have problems when pulling back without lifting up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;final smoothing of soft woods - if you'll get some shavings stuck in the mouth of your plane as you're dragging it back, you can get ugly &amp;quot;scratches&amp;quot; (more like &amp;quot;long dents&amp;quot; - as you could do with your finger nail). But I sometimes lift even for hardwoods when smoothing, just to be sure, but this may be unnecessary.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;planing agains simple planing stop - you'll &amp;quot;unstuck&amp;quot; the wood from the stop - but this is probably immediatelly obvious to anyone who uses the plane stop :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe there are other cases, but I know only these two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, I had another thought - if I'd ask myself sort of &lt;em&gt;inverted&lt;/em&gt; question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;When I would NEVER lift the plane when dragging back?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My answer would be: &lt;strong&gt;When using my &lt;em&gt;wooden&lt;/em&gt; scrub plane to remove a lot of wood quickly.&lt;/strong&gt; (not using plane stop obviously). And I mean really going at it where I plan to remove around 10mm (3/8&amp;quot;) or more and going usually at 45 degrees. I'll use bench plane and smoothing plane after that, so surface quality is not an issue at this stage and I can get it done faster without lifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not really sure, if that's because I have a &lt;em&gt;wooden&lt;/em&gt; scrub plane - but maybe yes, because it's much lighter than metal one and it won't &amp;quot;dig in&amp;quot; with corners when pulling back even if I'd tried (which metal plane can do - viz. @Graphus's excellent answer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;But take that with a grain of salt - it's just my (inexperienced) opinion.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8416" LastEditorUserId="8416" LastEditDate="2023-06-26T15:42:13.910" LastActivityDate="2023-06-26T15:42:13.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14672" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14680" CreationDate="2023-06-25T17:10:18.370" Score="5" ViewCount="153" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a Maloof-style low back chair (&lt;a href=&quot;https://americanart.si.edu/artwork/low-back-side-chair-34536&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://americanart.si.edu/artwork/low-back-side-chair-34536&lt;/a&gt;), the back legs attach directly to the seat and to the back. The grain in the seat runs back to front, while the grain in the back runs sideways. It seems like the expansion of the seat would pull apart the back joints. Why doesn’t that happen? Do the legs flex enough to accommodate the pressure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying a similar approach (not in style, but in that the legs attach directly to the seat) and wondering if I should align the seat/back grain in the same direction. Wood movement calculator for my area (Portugal) says that a beech seat could expand by up to 1cm…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is a prototype in cheap fir, without the back installed as I agonize over this issue. (Yes, I know the leg joints are weak, the plan is to reinforce them with wooden or brass pins.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xo7gH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xo7gH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;chair prototype&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10115" LastActivityDate="2023-06-29T06:16:00.927" Title="Wood movement in a chair" Tags="|furniture|wood-movement|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14670" CreationDate="2023-06-26T06:56:03.247" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it bad practice not to pick up the plane as you pull back for another pass? Why or why not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. Yes. Depends on who you ask!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it appears it's subjective it runs the risk of &lt;em&gt;all answers equally valid&lt;/em&gt;, and questions for which this is true are not a good fit for the SE model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, by looking at this more closely I think we can discover some details that demonstrate which approach is better/more correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two great advantages I can see are that, first, you strain your wrists less, and second, you don't risk accidentally letting the plane down too fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously there is something in both of these. The bigger and heavier metal planes in particular absolutely are a factor that can affect both, particularly for the part-time woodworker who doesn't have the opportunity to plane enough that they build up their arms/shoulders in the needed ways, as a pro would.... or might.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most professional woodworkers today don't plane enough that they would either! It's not like the old days when woodworkers used their planes &lt;em&gt;all the time&lt;/em&gt;, possibly for hours multiple times per week&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But perhaps it dulls the blade? How much does it do so, if at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't believe there is anything out there on this..... it was hard enough for the community to get any definitive data on blunting from normal use (this only appeared in the last few years AFAIK).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I don't believe there can be any reasonable study done on this anyway because there are too many variables — the type of steel, how much it was tempered, bevel-up or bevel-down, what bedding angle, how far does the edge project below the sole? Think of all the possible permutations and it'll make your head hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that's even before we've factored in the wood......&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which wood(s) are being planed....? Even if you had some data for common-use hardwoods in furniture work&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; how would it translate to pine or fir? What about ipe, purpleheart, iroko or jarrah? None of these are particularly rarely used these days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other reasons &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; to keep the plane on the wood as you pull back?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the key question, because the answer is yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of why I think this isn't purely subjective is that there is abundant guideline advice on how to plane telling us the plane should be lifted off at the end of the stroke, because it's one way to avoid 'dubbed' ends&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone trained in this tradition (there are others) would have to put the plane back down on to the board's surface at the far end for the return stroke, rather than it being just a matter of &lt;em&gt;leaving&lt;/em&gt; it on that surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, with smaller planes the sole is so short that you can't reasonably leave it on the board at the end of a stroke anyway! It just naturally runs off the far edge if you're not deliberately using the airplane landing/takeoff approach to prevent dubbing. I don't know about anyone else but if a plane had already cleared the wood at the end of the stroke I would just would naturally rock back or take a step back with the plane still in the air, rather than return it to the wood surface just to drag it back over the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And there are two other practical concerns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is that an edge or corner of the plane might leave a score line  and in the modern era of Western woodworking, where metal planes are hugely dominant, this is a really legitimate concern (even if arrises and corners are softened/relieved, as is fairly commonly done these days by users).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second is when planing wood that isn't held in a vice, pinned between stops, or otherwise held securely e.g. by a wedged planing stop, a doe's foot or cams. When a board is simply resting against a planing stop (even a toothed one) at one end you &lt;em&gt;can't&lt;/em&gt; drag the plane back over the board because this just pulls the wood away from the stop — anyone using a planing stop routinely has already self-trained not to leave the plane on the wood for the back stroke LOL&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's Rex Kruger showing the problem in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b3pE_XqM_H4&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a video&lt;/a&gt; only 10 days ago (4:51 if you want to jump straight to the relevant bit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This suggests that anyone historically who was planing wood against a stop without additional holding from a doe's foot, or directly from a holdfast, was lifting off at the end of each plane stroke.&lt;/em&gt; I would imagine that's the vast majority of all woodworking, not just in Europe and subsequently in American, but all across Asia too where simple workholding was (and still is) ubiquitous&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; We need to remember that Every. Single. Plank. that needed to be converted into a finished board from rough-sawn (or worse, riven!) had to be processed entirely by hand. That's multiple operations, using a succession of at least three planes, to get to the the smoothing at the end. And then there's scraping and/or sanding on top of that!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Which honestly are too varied for this broad category to be useful, since it would span at least cherry to hard maple which are miles apart in hardness, without even factoring in poplar and mesquite or alder and hickory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Dubbing is when each ends of the board end up slightly lower, so it's the hand-plane equivalent of snipe from a planer :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt; There's no possibility of a holdfast when you don't even plane on a workbench!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-06-26T06:56:03.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14674" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-27T00:05:57.663" Score="0" ViewCount="111" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Background&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm building a computer standing desk. I bought a nice base from Autonomous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a teak 72&amp;quot; x 25&amp;quot; table top from Lowe's with a live edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my first ever wood-staining project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've watched plenty of videos, and am planning to sand, pre-condition, then stain with oil-based stain and apply oil-based poly finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Here's my question:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really love the idea of contrast in my stain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I especially LOOVE these stains below that primarily affect the grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a bunch of samples, and am considering mixing &amp;amp; matching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: How can I replicate the center stain, bottom left, or bottom right stain? Any advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zEPKl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zEPKl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13406" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-07-03T07:04:37.403" LastActivityDate="2023-07-13T14:34:12.417" Title="Staining newbie: how to match these stains that primarily color the grain?" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14674" CreationDate="2023-06-27T05:59:54.210" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've watched plenty of videos, and am planning to sand, pre-condition, then stain with oil-based stain and apply oil-based poly finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to watch more videos. Or actually ditch that idea, you need to read some finishing books or good articles in the woodworking magazines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's nothing wrong with any of the steps you've mentioned here, or all of them in that sequence, except that step number two may or may not be called for depending on what you're working with. If the wood you're dealing with is indeed teak&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;em&gt;it's not called for&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As any and all decent guides to staining, or specifically on the use of &amp;quot;pre-stain&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;conditioner&amp;quot;, should have clearly informed the reader, these products basically have one job: to prevent blotching in blotch-prone woods&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;em&gt;Teak is not one of them.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: How can I replicate the center stain, bottom left, or bottom right stain? Any advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't in two of the cases. What you're seeing in these boards is largely just the natural grain of the wood (but see note below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These appear to be charcuterie/serving boards, so automatically one should assume they're not stained. The board front and centre for example, that's probably olive which is prized for those lovely wild/chaotic dark lines (one of the few species that has this). The board directly under it is a common softwood – wood from an evergreen conifer, possibly Douglas fir – but regardless of which species it is, the pronounced dark/light contrast in the each growth ring is a natural feature that is common to most softwoods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea what's going on with the board in the top-left corner (reclaimed wood maybe??)! The only board here that for sure has been stained is the one bottom-right. That looks like it is another piece of common softwood that was simply slathered in &amp;quot;gel stain&amp;quot; in a dark colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; the grain contrast in these boards is high and we can see they don't look 'dry', as bare sanded wood usually does. So part of that is likely that it has been highlighted by the wood being oiled (with mineral oil most likely) which increases contrast, as all oils do to one degree or another. But also, as a marketing photo the image could have been enhanced in multiple ways&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; to make it look better — I'd actually be more surprised if it &lt;em&gt;wasn't&lt;/em&gt; enhanced these days — so this might not even be that accurate a representation of the colour or contrast in these boards. It's impossible to tell for sure but I wouldn't be surprised if orange wasn't amped up a smidge, and the contrast increased slightly...... this is what I'd naturally do in Photoshop/GIMP if I wanted to make a photo of many woodworking projects 'look their best'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; IF it is indeed teak, which I doubt given the availability of and cost of teak these days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;  All you'll accomplish by using &amp;quot;conditioner&amp;quot; before staining a wood that doesn't need it is limit the amount of stain the wood is capable of absorbing, in other words you guarantee a lighter staining result, and possibly a less dramatic staining outcome (depending on the wood type and its grain type/structure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; A single 'enhance' option in an app for example likely does more than one thing, including but not limited to some colour manipulation, a bump in the contrast and/or the application of a particular type of sharpening called Unsharp Mask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-07-03T07:16:54.100" LastActivityDate="2023-07-03T07:16:54.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14676" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14678" CreationDate="2023-06-28T02:17:17.823" Score="1" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building an adjustable shelf 96&amp;quot;x20&amp;quot;x12&amp;quot; (H x W x D) adjacent on both sides to an inside wall corner, anchored to wall - does it need a back?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this will be kind of tall and slim I will probably install a fixed shelf board in the middle to make it more stable and rigid.&#xA;This shelf will be used to store boxes with smaller tools, larger tools etc. etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will sit 1&amp;quot; away from each wall because there is electrical conduit on that wall. Since it is at the top I might chose to cut the side panels to allow them to get closer to the wall and eliminate the gap at the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned I will use some furniture anti-tip brackets to make sure it is secured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need a back board for these shelves? My concern is the stability and rigidity of the entire structure, not that things will fall through the opening at the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case I decide to install a back what is it regularly used for? The material is 5/8 melamine, side panels pre-drilled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="497" LastEditorUserId="497" LastEditDate="2023-06-28T05:19:53.860" LastActivityDate="2023-06-28T05:19:53.860" Title="Do I need a back for a 96&quot;x20&quot;x12&quot; adjustable shelf?" Tags="|cabinetry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14677" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14679" CreationDate="2023-06-28T02:23:10.983" Score="-1" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building an adjustable shelf 96&amp;quot;x20&amp;quot;x12&amp;quot; (hxwxd) adjacent on both sides to an inside wall corner, anchored to wall&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Since this will be kind of tall and slim I will probably install a fixed shelf board in the middle to make it more stable and rigid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This shelf will will be used to store boxes with smaller tools, larger tools etc etc&#xA;It will sit 1&amp;quot; away from each wall because there is electrical conduit on that wall. Since it is at the top I might chose to cut the side panels to allow them to get closer to the wall and eliminate the gap at the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned I will use some furniture anti tip brackets to make sure is is secured&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What type of screws can I use to build the frame of the shelf?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="497" LastActivityDate="2023-06-28T15:47:02.867" Title="Should I use pocket holes or I should screw through -I am building an adjustable shelf using 5/8&quot; melamine (96&quot;x20&quot;x12&quot;)" Tags="|cabinetry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14676" CreationDate="2023-06-28T04:57:51.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's anchored to the wall, nope.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Backs on freestanding units serve two functions (arguably three on a bookshelf or dresser), but the one that concerns us here is that backs add rigidity. Without any diagonal bracing the open box of the four sides of a bookshelf or chest of drawers can be very prone to racking. Once you fix a back in place it makes it essentially impossible for the thing to rack since it has to either tear the fasteners free or rip the back apart. Even backs of very modest material like 1/8&amp;quot; (3mm) hardboard can be effective in preventing racking for years of service, even for items moved repeatedly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only reason to add a back here is aesthetics — do you mind seeing through to the wall behind? If you don't mind, no need to bother with a back &lt;em&gt;unless&lt;/em&gt; you think it will aid in the installation of the unit into the corner as a single piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-06-28T04:57:51.867" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14677" CreationDate="2023-06-28T15:47:02.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use screws designed for use in particle board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have a coarse thread and deeper gullets (greater difference between the diameter of the thread and diameter of the shank) to hold better in the grainlessness of particle board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Regular&amp;quot; wood screws will work, but they won't hold as well and will be more likely to tear out with movement of the wood. (Not expansion, there's no appreciable amount of expansion in particle board, but with movement of piece against piece, like when you bump into it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2023-06-28T15:47:02.867" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14672" CreationDate="2023-06-28T16:14:01.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issue here is your calculator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at how Katz Moses explains his little widget, it assumes your furniture is outside all year round and/or your shop space is completely without climate control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing your beech furniture isnt also going to be &lt;em&gt;beach&lt;/em&gt; furniture. A joke haha... so you won't actually see that much movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more accurate method to calculate the movement in your piece is to calculate by hand using the actual conditions of your workspace/where the furniture will live. It's pretty simple in terms of calculation. The only work is looking up all the pertinent climate values. But even that is easy because it's all online very accessibly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Expandong on that, if you're building in a shop that is climate controlled, as is the room where the piece will live, it is completely overkill to be working off the assumption that the piece will be subject to the full annual temperature and humidity swings of your outdoor climate when in fact it would only be subject to annual swings in the ambient moisture content of the air at a stable temperature. (JKM even notes this... but as a relative footnote for some reason. It's a non-trivial caveat as far as I can tell.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There can still cause considerable movement though. For instance, I work in a Chicago basement. It's very dry in winter and and very moist in the summer. Even with the temperature held stable at about 64F my wood moves noticeably on wider workpiece. So JKM's &amp;quot;best month to assemble&amp;quot; recommendation is probably salient -- even if his calculation method tends towards over estimation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13371" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2023-06-29T06:16:00.927" LastActivityDate="2023-06-29T06:16:00.927" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14681" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14682" CreationDate="2023-06-29T13:24:34.177" Score="2" ViewCount="81" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had to rehang a laundry door as it had dropped over the years.   As I was squaring up the door and redrilling the dowels I wondered whether the door would be stronger if I drilled and glued all the dowel holes in one pass, or two passes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I did was to drill and glue half the dowel holes, and then once dried, drill the other half.   I have no data, but I did think that the two pass method could be stronger just using normal PVA glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any proof that this is a stronger method/approach to glueing up?  My feeling is that it would be due to stresses being distributed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13416" LastEditorUserId="13416" LastEditDate="2023-07-04T11:22:53.983" LastActivityDate="2023-07-04T11:22:53.983" Title="Would a 2 Pass Dowel Glue Up For a Hung Door Be Stronger and Reduce the Fall" Tags="|glue|strength|dowel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14681" CreationDate="2023-06-29T14:27:42.760" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're doing any sort of glue-up using a PVA and the conditions or pace of work mean that the glue is partially set before things come together and &lt;em&gt;full clamp pressure&lt;/em&gt; is applied you are compromising strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much strength and whether it's enough to be significant is entirely down to the specifics of the situation so no predictions are possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Factors that will affect this are not limited to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Obviously the biggie is the drying time of the PVA (readers please note this includes both white and yellow forms of &amp;quot;wood glue&amp;quot;, they're all PVAs no matter what other name they go by).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The ambient humidity – high humidity is a help here.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The moisture content (MC) of the wood – dry wood means you have to work faster.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've got &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; wiggle room here since glue bonds are so strong, and many applications don't actually require the max strength possible (where the glue joints are stronger than the wood) but I think it's best to &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; aim for max strength rather than be complacent and have something bite you now, or more likely after a few years when one or more compromised glue joints have loosened after multiple cycles of wood movement. Take note any budding chair makers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where strength is critical, do as much as you can in the window where the glue is still absolutely a liquid (not even remotely skinned over) and/or hasn't sunk into the wood (as happens quite quickly on end-grain surfaces &lt;em&gt;as well as similar areas on long-grain surfaces where there's rising grain&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In published projects both in the magazines and on YouTube you'll regularly see larger projects broken up into stages, in part for precisely this reason. Even something fairly straightforward like laminations can be done in multiple steps if there are enough boards involved, i.e. two or three subassemblies are glued, and after those have set they're brought together in a final glue-up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you want to do everything in one operation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If for any reason you want/need to get something larger or more complex glued together in one go that is possible, switch glues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try a PVA with a longer open time but you need a different glue type for a really comfortable working period, so you might switch to polyurethane glue or a urea-formaldehyde adhesive. And for a really comfortable, even sedate, glue-up obviously go with an epoxy since there are versions with setting times of an hour or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-06-29T14:27:42.760" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14664" CreationDate="2023-06-30T18:02:31.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A standard dimensional 4x is 3.5&amp;quot; wide. Two 2x side by side will only be 3&amp;quot; wide (1.5&amp;quot; each). The traditional solution for this when framing door/window headers is to sandwich a layer of plywood/OSB between the two 2x to make the whole sandwich a full 3.5&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will allow you to use a 4x joist hanger and &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be sufficiently strong (consult an engineer - I'm not one). Since this is outdoors, you'd probably want to use PT plywood and put some sort of sealer tape on top to help slow (not prevent) water ingress &amp;amp; rot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2023-06-30T18:02:31.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14685" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14686" CreationDate="2023-07-02T18:10:17.070" Score="1" ViewCount="481" Body="&lt;p&gt;if a wood beam or rafter is twisted, is there a way to un-twist it? Does clamping it down for a certain period of time straighten it?&#xA;If not, is it a good idea to bolt it down to force it straight, or will the constant tension cause issues in the future?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, I am building a patio and all my rafters are twisted. Patio surface area is about 30 square maters, and the rafters have 6 meters length and are 120x50 mm thick. It's practically impossible to find rafters this long that are not twisted. The other option is to use 3 meter rafters which you can find straight, but I would prefer them to be continuous until the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A picture for reference, (my dimensions are different and I have another row of posts in the middle that support the rafters)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o6vme.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o6vme.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried bolting 2 short pieces of wood on the beam, then sliding the rafter in between. Seems to hold well, there's still a bit of twist visible but it's much better than before&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bg3kb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bg3kb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SDDBr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SDDBr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13423" LastEditorUserId="13423" LastEditDate="2023-07-07T21:32:06.490" LastActivityDate="2023-07-07T21:32:06.490" Title="Tension of twisted beams" Tags="|wood|twist|construction|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14685" CreationDate="2023-07-02T18:36:39.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most straightforward fix I can think of is to install solid blocking (same dimensions as rafters) at the top and near the bottom of the run. This will mostly force the twist out. (There might be a tiny bit of creep, but it shouldn’t be noticeable.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your aesthetic choices, you can stagger the blocking around a line (easier to nail) or line them up exactly (requires toenailing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and to answer your initial question: there isn’t much you can do to twisted wood to make it into something flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastEditorUserId="503" LastEditDate="2023-07-03T03:16:14.943" LastActivityDate="2023-07-03T03:16:14.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3856" CreationDate="2023-07-03T09:12:09.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chisels,  various sharp knives, fretsaw, veneer hammer and  dozer&#xA;or dozer-plane come to mind.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The art of (furniture) inlay with veneers, ivory, bone and mother of pearl is called Marquetry. Look up the word for more info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some enthousiast sites that offer a lot of information, like: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.redbridgemarquetrygroup.org/tutorials.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.redbridgemarquetrygroup.org/tutorials.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Silas Kopf demonstrates his work and tools here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jScr9gAvULU&amp;amp;t=23s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jScr9gAvULU&amp;amp;t=23s&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13428" LastActivityDate="2023-07-03T09:12:09.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14688" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-04T19:15:41.677" Score="3" ViewCount="334" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm sanding a piece of white oak (originally flooring, if that matters, although this isn't for use as flooring). I have done this in what I think is the correct way: starting with 120 grit, then 220, then successively finer grits, down to 3000, to get a really smooth surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wood is perfectly flat, so I used sandpaper gripped in one of those sanding blocks with a soft pad, and I moved in random orbits as best I could by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The initial coarse sanding left very faint scratches that were not removed by subsequent finer passes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uetpp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uetpp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why would that happen, and how do you prevent it, and is there any way to save this piece?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4640" LastActivityDate="2023-07-12T18:05:29.613" Title="Why didn't sanding get these scratches out?" Tags="|sanding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14663" CreationDate="2023-07-04T19:24:46.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry to say it. But, I think the only course here is to start over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question then is how far back do you go in starting over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are feeling confident, you could try doing just the affected area to save time and effort if this is a large piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you will have great difficulty managing the interface at the edge of the areas you're working on. This will problematic if this is a dining room table, sideboard, or other such prominent piece of furniture that you want to display in your home -- which I surmise it is based on your post. This solution is also potentially problematic because it does not address the possibility of poor adhesion between varnish and substrate elsewhere in the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best practice is (as far as I know) to go all way back on the varnish. The rationale here is similar to when there is cosmetic damage to a panel of an automobile. The body shop repaints the entire component to ensure a perfect, even finish. This is because it is ultimately less work to redo the whole piece to get a perfect finish than it is to feather the edges between the original and new finish applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case, the question is now of removal process: sanding or solvents?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I couldn't verify if the stain you used is penetrating or film. If it's the latter, you will have to redo the stain as well in all likelihood and if the former you might be able to get away with just sanding down the varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My personal preference for this project would be a product called Citrustrip. It will take the stain off. But it also doesn't agitate your lungs and eyes like other solvents and it's probably faster, cheaper, and less effort than sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, the expense/time/effort cost-benefit analysis will change based on the size of the project. If it's something smaller like a sideboard or a serving tray, sanding probably still works fine. If it's a dining room table or has lots of facets, I would recommend solvents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the mean time, there's always table cloths!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps you out a bit and that you're on your way to a satisfactory solution to this unfortunate circumstance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13371" LastActivityDate="2023-07-04T19:24:46.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14688" CreationDate="2023-07-04T23:30:49.440" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Random orbits are only a good strategy when a machine is doing it. So in the future, sand with the grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fix this, start at about 80, and work your way back up through the grits. Don't skip grits too quickly. (In other words, get the cross-grain scratches out with the 80 before you move up. You'll never fix issues like that with finer and finer grits.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This might be a matter of opinion, but mine is that you're wasting time going past 400. Maybe your application really wanted 3000, but I'd love to know why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2023-07-04T23:30:49.440" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7645" CreationDate="2023-07-06T14:26:41.213" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;After assembly and the joints have been flushed, use your dado set to cut very shallow stopped rabbets along the edges of the corners and glue in some inlay stripping. It would hide all the holes and any other misfits, plus dress up the box a bit. Stopping the inlay short top and bottom would prevent breakage, and you'l have to do some shallow chiseling at the ends. Another option is to dado a groove all the way around and miter in a small 'chair' rail to prevent side scratches and dings. Google Fine Woodworking for &amp;quot;Bob Van Dyke's L fence&amp;quot; for your table saw to build an indispensable jig to do both these tasks and many more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13448" LastActivityDate="2023-07-06T14:26:41.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14688" CreationDate="2023-07-08T03:54:38.253" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple answer is you didn't start with a coarse enough grit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider the sandpapers as producing a lot of tiny little cuts into the wood which average out over the course of dozens and hundreds of &amp;quot;cuts&amp;quot; producing sawdust which average out to a smooth surface. Each subsequent level of sandpaper grain produces a finer &amp;quot;cut&amp;quot; -- 60 grit sandpaper produces a 60-grit-sized cut, 120 grit produces a 120-grit cut etc. This refers to both the depth and width of the cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you start sanding a gouge in a piece of wood with a 60 grit gouge with 120 grit sandpaper and then go from there, you're not going to remove the gouge. You're just going to polish it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One: get some coarser sand paper like 60 and do test patch up to 220.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two: I recommend not using sandpaper above 220 or 300 on wood. It's not necessary in any application I can think of. The finest abrasive I can recall being advised in a wood working application is #0000 steel wool used in polishing finishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3000 grit sandpaper is used for polishing things like clear coat on a car or metal (okay so you could hypothetically sharpen a chisel but even then 3000 is in my opinion overkill just use a strop at that point I digress). Wood, being a porous irregular material consisting of miceometer-scale fibers can't physically be regular and smooth enough for such fine grits to be worth the money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However 3000 grit is useful here though as an illustration of the &amp;quot;polishing the gouge&amp;quot; point though. 3000 grit makes a cut 7 microns deep, or about 10% the size of a human hair; 15% the size of the smallest object visible to the human eye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apologies for belaboring the point. I hope my extended discourse on sandpaper grits is of use to you and saves you some money at the hardware store in the future!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck on the project!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13371" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2023-07-12T18:05:29.613" LastActivityDate="2023-07-12T18:05:29.613" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14688" CreationDate="2023-07-10T18:27:55.083" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why would that happen, and how do you prevent it, and is there any way to save this piece?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It happened because you didn't sand enough to remove those scratches.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanding is a process of replacing scratches with successively smaller scratches. Large grit removes material faster, but leaves large scratches; small grit leaves small scratches, and a smoother surface, but takes longer. The purpose of working from large to small grit is mainly to save time -- you &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; start with 400 grit paper and just keep sanding until all the scratches are gone, but it'd take a long time and a lot of work to sand out all the larger scratches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can absolutely &amp;quot;save&amp;quot; the piece you're working on by simply backing up a bit and sanding more. You'll have to judge which grit you want to start with by the size of the scratches. I'd recommend using a random orbit finish sander for this -- it'll go &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; faster than sanding by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However you do it, you'll need to sand until you get a uniform appearance with no trace of the previous scratches before you move on to the next grit size. It's a good idea to wipe or vacuum the surface each time you switch grits to reduce the possibility of some detached grit from the previous sandpaper grade being left on the surface and slowing down progress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2023-07-10T18:27:55.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14772" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14775" CreationDate="2023-07-10T22:57:51.597" Score="1" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering buying a used piece of furniture at a huge discount. It has been disclosed by the seller that there is a &amp;quot;split on the right side&amp;quot;. I'm not sure if that's the correct technical term, but to me it looks like the joint is separating along the top edge. In addition to the cosmetic issue it presents, I imagine it also affects it structurally as well. Is that a legitimate concern?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a simple fix for something like this? I'm envisioning sliding some glue in there and placing a ton of weight on top and hoping it kind of joins back together leaving just a bit of touch-up to be done. Could it be that simple or is the &amp;quot;split&amp;quot; likely a result of water damage or something more permanent and complex for a novice to repair? If the latter, any idea what it may cost to have something like that repaired at a shop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JFsOV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JFsOV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;EDIT&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a few more/better pics&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ld9aH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ld9aH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L4qLV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L4qLV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aPi6c.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aPi6c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13493" LastEditorUserId="13493" LastEditDate="2023-07-11T00:53:53.520" LastActivityDate="2023-07-11T09:39:42.753" Title="furniture repair" Tags="|furniture|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14772" CreationDate="2023-07-11T09:39:42.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the cosmetic issue it presents, I imagine it also affects it structurally as well. Is that a legitimate concern?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes it is most definitely a structural concern. Even before the addition of the other photos it was clear the mitre joint had separated along that side, which means the top was no longer joined securely or, potentially, &lt;em&gt;no longer joined at all&lt;/em&gt; to that side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the additional pics it's clear there is even greater cause for concern — since the joints at both sides are broken open the top might be ready to simply be lifted off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hate to say it but if the initial photos of the piece didn't include these images of the right side, where the damage appears to be worse, there seems to have been a deliberate attempt to deceive. Any time someone is selling something that is acknowledged to be damaged the seller should put photos of the damage front and centre so potential buyers know exactly what they're getting into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a simple fix for something like this? I'm envisioning sliding some glue in there and placing a ton of weight on top and hoping it kind of joins back together leaving just a bit of touch-up to be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before we got a better look into the cracks you were possibly on the right track, but this method would only work if the sides could be constrained. Without that, a likely outcome when the top is heavily loaded is that the now-unattached left side will just be pushed further out&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some long enough clamps would be ideal for this, for clamping top to bottom as well as left to right. Although it's possible this could be clamped successfully with cord/rope and a stick (q.v. Spanish windlass) as long as it was done carefully, with steps taken to protect against the cord digging in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;any idea what it may cost to have something like that repaired at a shop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Impossible to answer for a number of reasons. The first is probably immediately obvious, but the last may not be evident at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repair costs are &lt;em&gt;highly&lt;/em&gt; variable place to place, business to business.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some repairs are taken on initially at a speculative basis, with a firm quote given only after investigation (which may or may not be free&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If this is indeed chipboard/particleboard some woodworkers, or dedicated repair shops, just wouldn't take it on, period, because of how difficult it is to repair.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And there's a follow-on financial aspect to this: is any piece of furniture made from this material cost effective to repair?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd have said not, but given the amount of sharp practice in the modern furniture world, and deliberate deception in the apparent materials and methods of construction&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;, who knows?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Not helped by the fact that many glues are highly lubricative, making joint surfaces very prone to sliding past each other!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Although often waived if the repair goes forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; This piece for example, while it appears to be chipboard/particleboard, has surface features in the 'veneer' (laminate?) that mimic board construction and saw marks. So it's pretending to be made from wood under the black finish (but in a weird semi-rustic way that doesn't go with the modern lines, handles and clean black finish).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-07-11T09:39:42.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14776" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-11T19:00:48.873" Score="1" ViewCount="730" Body="&lt;p&gt;im making a fire staff. My friend bought me a 1 ¹/4 diameter, 58&amp;quot; long dowel but I need to reduce it to 1&amp;quot;. I have no equipment, (pretty sure homedepot doesn't accept returns that have been cut to order), perhaps is there a place that could whittle it down? This stick already cost $16, looking for cost effective and efficient way to reduce  1/4&amp;quot; down the entire shaft. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13496" LastActivityDate="2024-01-13T08:46:31.050" Title="Dowel diameter reduction" Tags="|dowel|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14776" CreationDate="2023-07-11T21:20:30.983" Score="11" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This stick already cost $16, looking for cost effective and efficient way to reduce 1/4&amp;quot; down the entire shaft. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest, most cost effective plan will be to just go buy the right size. My Home Depot has a 1&amp;quot;x72&amp;quot; hardwood dowel for $7. Turning your 1.25&amp;quot; dowel down to a consistent 1&amp;quot; on a lathe would:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;be difficult&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;require a lathe with a very long bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;surely cost more than $7&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2023-07-11T21:20:30.983" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14776" CreationDate="2023-07-11T21:48:09.707" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without knowing your tool stock or your skill set, your answer will be challenging to find. I've just now searched and found a method to turn down a square rod to a dowel by using a die, normally used to thread bolts. I have a reasonably varied set of tools, but I don't have a one-inch die in my kit, making your objective implausible with that tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another method involves sharpening the edge of an open-end wrench to create a cutting surface, spinning the rod in the mouth of the wrench to shave away excess material. I do have a one-inch open-end wrench, but I'm not going to grind away a portion to create a knife-edge and make sawdust. It's also challenging to spin a 1.125&amp;quot; dowel fast enough as common power tools are limited chuck diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another method I've seen online is to drill the one-inch hole in a plank, cutting slices tangent and parallel to the hole, inserting &amp;quot;discarded&amp;quot; reciprocating saw blades in the slots, teeth up and spinning the rod. Again, the starting rod is rather large diameter, but this particular method is possible using a hand crank, making it more possible than the others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Caleb's seven dollar suggestion seems to have merit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2023-07-11T21:48:09.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14779" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14782" CreationDate="2023-07-12T00:12:37.667" Score="1" ViewCount="460" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking to build some overhead cabinets in a van. These will be made from plywood probably 3/8&amp;quot; unless I can get away with thinner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally I would like to use finger joints, but without a table saw I'm stuck. However I could use a router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen a lot of videos on keyed mitred joints, the ones that go all the way through. Where you get that nice contrast of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I've seen similar joints but made with through dowels. I was looking at one key per 2&amp;quot; of travel along the edge and maybe something similar with the dowels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are your thoughts with regard to ease and strength with these options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13497" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-07-13T12:30:27.247" LastActivityDate="2023-07-24T00:34:03.333" Title="Traditional keyed mitre joint or using through dowels" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5073" CreationDate="2023-07-12T02:14:50.840" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had this happen while working in hot temperatures, outside in the sun with some 7 1/4 blades with a circ saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even today, I was doing some work that 100% should have been done in the shop w/ some nice maple ply &amp;amp; after 3 or 4 cuts my blade started making some wavy cuts so I had to shut that project down until the morning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13498" LastActivityDate="2023-07-12T02:14:50.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14674" CreationDate="2023-07-13T14:34:12.417" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are using a wood with an open grain (oak, ash) you can try the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sand and prepare as usual.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean the wood thoroughly using mineral spirits or denatured alcohol.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply a dark dye / dye stain.  Let it dry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sand the wood, with the goal of only leaving the dyed dark parts in the grain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Repeat 3-4 as desired).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vacuum any sanding dust off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seal dye coat -- use a shellac based sealer.  This will allow you to put an oil finish over top and not worry about the dye 'running'.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply your next stain, as usual.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Top Coat as usual.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did this a few years ago for an ash desktop:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JxKoy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JxKoy.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lee Valley Aniline Dye&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Emtech Shellac Sealer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;General Finishes Carbon Grey Gel Stain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;General Finishes Gel Top Coat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm happy with the result, but between coats wasn't particular enough with the sanding (I had initially done a very careful, thorough job) but re-introduced some low grit scratches/pigtails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8429" LastActivityDate="2023-07-13T14:34:12.417" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14779" CreationDate="2023-07-13T15:01:36.957" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally I would like to use finger joints, but without a table saw I'm stuck. However I could use a router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes you can just as easily make finger joints/box joints with a router (generally using a router table&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;) as with a table saw. And as usual with the comparison, probably more safely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finger joints are awesome and they look great, however for overhead cabinets they are serious overkill. They are a great way to get approximately the strength of dovetails with all that interlocking wood and glue surface area, but this sort of strength is generally not needed except on standalone pieces which might be moved a lot, bumped into etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously there's potential for the overheads in a van to be bumped into as well, but, since most van build-ins don't rely on finger joints and hold up perfectly fine it strongly suggests that sort of strength just isn't required....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen a lot of videos on keyed mitred joints, the ones that go all the way through. Where you get that nice contrast of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I've seen similar joints but made with through dowels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are your thoughts with regard to ease and strength with these options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't a contest with regard to ease (dowels win comfortably as I'll get into below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But whether one is stronger than the other is an open question because of the variables involved&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; and although there are comparative tests that include both options the results are not consistent. So we're left with what our guts tell us, and for one person that'll tell them the keys add more strength and for another that dowels are the winner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although I'm a big fan of dowels to be fair I think we must consider the strength contest a wash without more data&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;, but dowels still win hand down because of various advantages that go beyond the speed and simplicity. Here's an incomplete list of the advantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For a start no jig or complex setup is required, you just drill a series of holes and glue in matching dowel and that's most of the work done. Plus it uses a tool that almost everyone has already, which is nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The box doesn't need to be completely glued together before you drill for the through-dowels, which means you can work one corner at a time if you want to or it's convenient for any reason — say if you only have one or two corner clamps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Commercial dowelling can easily be found in most places and is generally cheap. Don't overlook bamboo skewers as a source of strong and thin dowelling material, especially valuable when working with thinner stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If convenient or necessary, joinery dowels are very easily made in the workshop by various means, including using a very crude dowel maker if no other option is available (see Paul Sellers's &lt;a href=&quot;https://paulsellers.com/2013/07/poor-mans-dowel-maker/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Poor man's dowel maker&lt;/a&gt;). And making short dowels suitable for joinery is a superb way to use up skinny &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; short offcuts that otherwise have little potential use except as kindling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dowels don't have to rely mostly or entirely on glue strength because they don't have to go in perpendicular to the surface, but can be driven in dovetail fashion (also referred to as toenailing) like this: \ \ | / / or like this \ / \ / \ / which ads a mechanical advantage. With through-dowels this is &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; worth doing for added strength since it requires zero additional effort; align the angle along the axis of the second piece and there's almost zero risk of blowing out the side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case it's not obvious, since you're using mitred corners you can (and should) drive dowels in from both sides of each joint. Offset the hole patterns so they don't intersect!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Doesn't have to be a formal router table, a sheet of plywood, MDF or even particleboard/chipboard with a hole drilled through, clamped to the edge of a table, can be perfectly adequate for many operations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; The shape of keys, whether they're 'flat' or done at angles, the diameter and length of the dowels, the species used, of course the number of either and possibly also the spacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Although with thinner material (under 1/2&amp;quot; / 13mm?) I don't think there is any chance dowelling isn't vastly stronger because there's so much less glue area possible for the keys and a limited amount on the mitres themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-07-13T15:01:36.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14779" CreationDate="2023-07-13T18:18:57.400" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are your thoughts with regard to ease and strength with these options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two options I can think of for easy, attractive, strong miter joints are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;glue blocks:&lt;/strong&gt; Rip square or triangular hardwood strips from a board and glue them into the inside corners of the joint. The blocks add lots of glue area, making the joint much stronger, while still giving the clean external appearance of a simple miter joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;lapped miter joint:&lt;/strong&gt; I was going to recommend lock miter joints until I remembered that you're using plywood, and the interlocking protrusions in a lock miter joint easily snap off when made in plywood. However, Infinity Tools offers a set of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.infinitytools.com/blog/2015/06/18/go-ahead-lap-it-up-new-lapped-miter-bits#&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;lapped miter joint bits&lt;/a&gt; that purport to have some of the same advantages of lock miters (strength and easy assembly), but which are meant to work well with sheet goods. I haven't tried them, but they look promising. Note, however, that the minimum material thickness is 1/2&amp;quot;, so you'd have to use slightly thicker material than the 3/8&amp;quot; stuff you were planning to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2023-07-13T18:18:57.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14784" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-15T04:02:14.140" Score="1" ViewCount="173" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a wooden white laminate desktop for my office desk.  I have a wireless keyboard and mouse.  I'd like to add a usb-c port in my tabletop to be able to charge my keyboard and mouse, and going for a minimalistic and clean aesthetic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the best way to flush mount &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0B8X7R7PT&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;one of these&lt;/a&gt; in my desktop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thinking of glueing it to &lt;a href=&quot;https://rubber-grommet.com/white-grommets/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;grommets&lt;/a&gt; then placing in a drilled hole in the desk.  Not sure the best way to drill this hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once flush mounted, I would connect the bottom side to a power source, then use a cable to charge my keyboard/mouse on the top side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only have basic home tools for this project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13513" LastEditorUserId="13513" LastEditDate="2023-07-15T16:36:11.173" LastActivityDate="2023-07-15T16:36:11.173" Title="Flush Mount USBC Port In Wooden Desktop" Tags="|mounting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2942" CreationDate="2023-07-15T08:55:01.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to point out the comment from @Ast Pace - &lt;strong&gt;Buy a Voltage Regulator&lt;/strong&gt; (Rheostat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I presume you don't want to try to run it past the limit, the problem is same as mine - the tool does not allow you to slow down enough.. This thing does!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not that expensive (around 40EUR) and it is well worth the safety it brings, instead of trying your luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13515" LastActivityDate="2023-07-15T08:55:01.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14784" CreationDate="2023-07-15T12:33:52.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your life would be easier if you bought something designed for your application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No endorsement, but as an example (source Etsy as linked):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OrztL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OrztL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;USB insert&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.etsy.com/listing/1107008977/usb-c-port-adapter-for-12mm-switch-holes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;USB insert&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Alternative, more professional looking; google &amp;quot;usb c panel mount&amp;quot;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.coolgear.com/product/usb-panel-mount-extension-1-x-type-c-3-0-and-1-x-usb-3-0-a-male-to-female-cable-ideal-for-rv-car-boat-motorcycle-air-craft-and-desk-installations-3ft&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Panel mount&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would simply require the right sized hole, and the shoulders of the item cover the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you insist on the original plan, either get geared up with a router template or a bunch of files/rasps. (The router template will be time consuming and the files are unlikely to be perfect.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastEditorUserId="503" LastEditDate="2023-07-15T13:32:07.300" LastActivityDate="2023-07-15T13:32:07.300" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14790" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14793" CreationDate="2023-07-16T20:29:21.140" Score="2" ViewCount="182" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apologies if this is not the right forum, but it seems to be a place full of people who would know how to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a stack of a paper like material (papyrus, if it makes a difference) and I need to cut it into a particular intricate shape. It is very error prone and tedious to do this with a knife, so what I was thinking is that I could get a two metal or wooden forms corresponding to the shape, then put the stack of paper between, do a rough cut around the edges, then lock in place with a vice or something like that, and then using a hand drill with a suitable bit, run around the edge of the form to cut the paper to correspond to the required shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not particularly handy, but I am looking for some advice. Particularly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this a workable approach?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it safe, or am I going to lose a finger or eye in the process?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What sort of drill bit should I use?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a better way to achieve the same end (without spending thousands of dollars on a bunch of expensive tools)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At commenters request here is the shape (roughly 7&amp;quot; wide and 8.25&amp;quot; tall):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fwRjX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fwRjX.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13525" LastEditorUserId="13525" LastEditDate="2023-07-16T21:38:19.293" LastActivityDate="2023-07-25T21:18:43.157" Title="Cutting a stack of paper into a shape with a router" Tags="|drill-bits|drill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2023-08-02T15:47:18.170" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14779" CreationDate="2023-07-18T01:25:57.990" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/CE147Ow7RmM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video experiment&lt;/a&gt; pitted a selection of joints against each other in terms of pounds of pressure against the joint at a 45 degree angle -- the clear winner was a mitre joint, with a spline mitre coming in second... further down the list was a dowel butt joint (the dowels being drilled into the grain of the inner butt piece).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The experiment is one measure of strength of the relative joins. I have my questions about the method -- if you're building cabinets, you have to consider where your force is going to be coming from. I'd guess the weight of whatever you place inside on the bottom would be a lateral force on that side, or perhaps the force of the box away from the side that's drilled into the side of the van.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try a similar experiment using plywood, apply force using weights or a clamp and find your answer. Share it with us if you do!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13530" LastActivityDate="2023-07-18T01:25:57.990" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14790" CreationDate="2023-07-18T19:17:35.917" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a workable approach?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think so. I think a spinning bit is going to give you a fairly rough edge, and it also won't get into the inside corners that your shape has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it safe, or am I going to lose a finger or eye in the process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd think so. As long as the stack of paper is clamped tightly between two pieces of plywood it should work about the same way wood does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What sort of drill bit should I use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should not use a drill bit. Drill bits are designed for drilling holes, so they mainly cut only at the end and in a direction parallel to the bit's axis. A small router, like a trim router, would be tool to use if you want to cut sideways, and you'd of course need a pattern bit or flush trim bit if you want to follow a pattern. But again, I don't think that'll give you the results you're hoping for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a better way to achieve the same end (without spending thousands of dollars on a bunch of expensive tools)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The right way to do this would be to use a press with a custom steel rule die. Having one of these made is probably pretty expensive, but there are videos on YouTube that demonstrate ways to make your own. A hand-cranked hydraulic press could work here; you can get one at a place like Harbor Freight for under $200 new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2023-07-18T19:17:35.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14794" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14796" CreationDate="2023-07-19T13:06:24.603" Score="7" ViewCount="2083" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Motivation:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently, I was restoring a small spice rack made of very thin and very soft wood (pine-like) - I unglued it, restored pieces and was about to glue it back together. I saw that the best way to go was to glue it all in one go, since it would be much easier to clamp when fully assembled than to glue it in steps (see the sketch).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mhZoh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mhZoh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;small spice rack from thin planks&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I decided to put a few small 2mm (1/16&amp;quot;) dowels (i.e. bamboo toothpicks) in the pieces to make sure it won't slide under clamps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What I did (and created &amp;quot;the problem&amp;quot;):&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I drilled holes in one piece, made small &amp;quot;dowel pin locators&amp;quot; by cutting nails, marked the opposing pieces, and then started to drill them...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, even with a drill press, the drill wandered off by approx. 0.5mm (1/64&amp;quot;) when it hit harder grain - that would be fine for larger hole for a larger dowel, but since it was so small, even this miniscule error was unacceptable (by which I mean the pieces would be slanted or wouldn't fit at all).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;My &amp;quot;sort of solution&amp;quot;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried several times, but drilling just didn't work for me, so in the end I used my tiny 2mm (1/16&amp;quot;) chisel and made square holes and used square dowels. This worked, but it took way too much time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(In fact this was not the first time I was unable to drill a very small hole into a softwood with hard grain lines exactly where the mark was.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The question:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some fool-proof, simple and most importantly reliable way accurately drill very small holes 0.5 - 2mm (1/50&amp;quot; - 1/16&amp;quot;) in softwood with hard grain lines?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8416" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-07-19T17:31:17.333" LastActivityDate="2023-07-21T03:08:43.897" Title="Drilling very small holes in softwoods" Tags="|drilling|softwood|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14795" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-19T17:34:42.487" Score="0" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thinking about building workbench 2.0 it seems that instead of a table-like top, what would make more sense is a lattice — 2×4s spaced a few (like 4?) inches apart, reinforced underneath with a few perpendicular beams.  I say this because it's always frustrating to be limited in the locations where I can apply a clamp; often, a clamp somewhere in the center would be more helpful than a clamp (or vise) at the edge of the table.  Especially when the workpiece needs to be firmly held at both its ends but it's smaller than the width of my workbench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this an FAQ?  Are lattice-like tables a thing already?  Or is there a reason no one (but me) thinks to build one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, like everyone else, I place things on my workbench and wouldn't want them falling through my lattice onto the floor.  But for that I figure on putting down a piece of plywood wherever convenient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I know the classical solution is benchdogs and holdfasts.  But making such holes with the necessary accuracy is beyond me.  And besides, trigger-style clamps are great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13537" LastEditorUserId="13537" LastEditDate="2023-07-19T17:39:11.067" LastActivityDate="2023-07-20T06:27:42.150" Title="workbench with lattice top" Tags="|design|workbench|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14794" CreationDate="2023-07-19T18:37:48.953" Score="10" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some fool-proof, simple and most importantly reliable way accurately drill very small holes 0.5 - 2mm (1/50&amp;quot; - 1/16&amp;quot;) in softwood with hard grain lines?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, not really.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with many softwoods is the huge difference in hardness between the dark and light bands in the grain/growth rings. The dark latewood is quite hard and the pale wood in between, the earlywood, is soft to &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; soft and presents a path of least resistance that drill bits are prone to following.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with a distinct starting mark from a sharp awl drill bits can wander into the soft part of the grain, even when the bit entered the wood in just the right spot initially. Remembering that grain is three dimensional, and just under the surface a growth ring can be vertical or veer off steeply to either side, so the tendency to drift is unpredictable to say the least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using brad-point bits (also called lip-and-spur bits or dowel bits) instead of the common twist bit can help, but we soon run out of sizes as the hole size goes smaller. And for very tiny holes the only bits commonly available are twist bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, since we sometimes have to live with a hole that isn't quite where we wanted it workarounds are necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Drill the secondary hole larger&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You transfer across your hole positions as normal, and then deliberately drill an oversize hole so that you're sure the dowels will not be skewed to one side or not fit at all. Note that this requires a gap-filling adhesive is used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't ideal for a few reasons. For starters, someone might not want, or be able to, glue with epoxy or another gap-filling adhesive, but more importantly for this specific use-case it doesn't provide the &lt;em&gt;exact&lt;/em&gt; positioning of the parts that was the initial requirement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Where you can, use through-dowels&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;With through-dowels hole alignment is automatic because the entire hole (the holes in both pieces of wood being joined) is drilled in one go. So a minor miss-positioning of the initial hole from the desired position – the hole in the 'top' piece – automatically translates to the position for the second hole in the 'bottom' piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bonus option&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This is for the specific initial problem you outline, rather than a complete replacement for dowels as an alignment aid or reinforcement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially what you do is the following, but then stop:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I drilled holes in one piece, made small &amp;quot;dowel pin locators&amp;quot; by cutting nails&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clipped-off nails generally have little difficulty in embedding themselves into the next piece of wood and already do what you wanted to do, prevent sliding around after the glue is applied and the pieces are brought together under clamp pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an old trick and used in both softwoods and hardwoods, but the harder the wood used the shorter the clipped-off nails need to be to ensure that clamp pressure can make them penetrate fully into the next piece of wood — if overlong they'll act as 'standoffs' and prevent the workpieces coming together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-07-19T18:37:48.953" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14795" CreationDate="2023-07-19T18:50:54.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well the holes in the bench tops do make up a 'lattice' they are just more work top than holes.  I have found that the bench dogs and bench vices work incredibly well, better than clamping my work directly to the bench top with a clamp.  I say this as someone relatively new to this type of workbench, as just a few years ago built my first woodworking bench.  But honestly, I'd never go back.  The biggest plus is that you don't have a clamp in the middle of your work that you have to work around or keep moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as drilling the holes evenly, draw out a grid with a square and pencil, or even use a snap line, then drill the intersections.  it's a little time consuming but really worth it in the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Holdfasts do work well too, but I would really recommend adding at least 1 if not 2 bench vices to your bench if you don't already have them, they make clamping down your work piece very fast and easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having big holes in the table all the time would be a PITA, IMO.  things would always be falling through, and putting a sheet of plywood or something on the top seems like a lot more work, since if your shop is anything like mine, it will be constantly loaded with stuff, that you will have to remove to move the boards out of the way.  you might mitigate this with several smaller boards covering 'part' of the table but still doesn't feel very convenient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are all reasons I come up with for not doing it as a lattice but keeping the more traditional type bench, remember the traditional type benches have been around for hundreds of years, and there is a reason for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2023-07-19T18:50:54.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14795" CreationDate="2023-07-20T06:27:42.150" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are lattice-like tables a thing already?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes they're a thing, if you'd done more searching you've have found something I'm sure (although I think you'd have had more luck using the word grid instead of lattice).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But generally I think you'll see something along these lines used more by power-tool woodworkers or hybrid woodworkers who are more power-tool centric. Even amongst the former they're rare, and from what little I've seen they tend not to be used as a full-on workbench but more for specific tasks such as breaking down of plywood sheets (initial cutting to rough size) with some form of solid-top bench or work table used for a lot of other processes and much of the building/assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, like everyone else, I place things on my workbench and wouldn't want them falling through my lattice onto the floor. But for that I figure on putting down a piece of plywood wherever convenient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to build an open-lattice top go for it, see how it works for you in practice; this is always the best approach rather than attempting to foresee all the pros and cons in your head, as inevitably there will be things (both good and bad) that you couldn't have thought of. I suggest the right approach would be to embrace it fully and simply add a shelf below and/or build in a tool well at the back. I can imagine that with one or both of these additions only a small tweak to normal working habits would be needed to get comfortable working on the new bench style, leading to putting down a piece of ply on top becoming something you find you never need to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also remember that bench ends (between or on the legs/leg assemblies) can provide some useful space for added storage, at least some hangers for saws and one or more racks or magnetic strips for small tools. A simple plane till wouldn't be impossible either, although TBH I don't think such a bench would be any good for the regular user of planes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I know the classical solution is benchdogs and holdfasts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That would generally be dogs &lt;strong&gt;or&lt;/strong&gt; holdfasts since many older benches with dog holes had them exclusively in lines, aligned with the vice or vices, especially an end or wagon vice; we can still see the evidence of this today in the layout of dog holes in some commercial benches and many bench plans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And similarly, a bench that used holdfasts did not have to have any kind of conventional vices because the holdfasts could do both top-clamping and face-clamping tasks, along with crotchets and various other forms of holders or stops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But making such holes with the necessary accuracy is beyond me. And besides, trigger-style clamps are great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quick clamps/one-handed clamps are great. But their hold is rarely anything like what a good holdfast can provide. Plus they're way faster to set and release.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now about those holes... they really aren't beyond you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because they're considered tricky or outright difficult as you can imagine many many people have problem solved the task and numerous techniques have been developed to help in the process and make them better/more consistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But actually a bit of variation in dog holes is no big deal. This shouldn't be a surprise since of course anyone making them back in the day was doing it by hand, and like all manual processes some minor variation is to be expected. These days with users of many different experience levels making benches with round dog holes the holes are obviously going to vary even more!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as the diameter is OK holdfasts work absolutely fine; they're quite tolerant of most variations except for a too-thin top. As for dogs, dogs of numerous designs can work in holes that are surprisingly imperfect — not that consistent in size, very ragged inside, torn grain at the edge (worse on the bottom&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;) and even if not one of them is at a perfect 90 to the top!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if your OCD demands it, near-perfect holes (what you might call furniture-quality) are within the grasp of nearly anyone of reasonable skill if they're careful and go slow, using one or more tips and the right bit in the right drill&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. The top edge then being cleaned up and made to look even better with a nice chamfer or roundover (generally done by router).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;often, a clamp somewhere in the center would be more helpful than a clamp (or vise) at the edge of the table&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well there are ways to allow that without completely redesigning the workbench top. One simple solution is just to split the worktop in half, with the gap between left large enough to allow easy access for your clamps of preference. Benches like this are also a thing, although still rare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But TBH it sounds like you just need to work on your conventional workholding solutions. Think of all the people who have been doing similar work to what you're doing who don't seem to be struggling using their benches with the limited access for quick clamps ^_^&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And there are workholding solutions that go far beyond vices and dogs, holdfasts and a doe's foot — toothed planing stops (fixed or adjustable), flip-up or rising/falling stops, surface clamps, Wonder Dogs, poppets, wedges, cams, boomerangs, and now many new options that use T-tracks. On top of that there are sawing hooks, mitre boxes, shooting boards, and last but not least the mother of all workbench aids, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1321/whats-a-bench-hook&quot;&gt;bench hook&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; The holes in the bottom of a workbench are typically much worse on the bottom due to it being the exit hole in most cases. Breakout on exit holes with many (most!) styles of drill bit can be awful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; A brace and a well-sharpened traditional auger, with the lead screw/snail in good shape, can drill really great, very deep holes. Using a power drill a Forstner bit and its related cousins, or something like the Wood Owl bits can drill super-clean holes with very clean entrances; honourable mention of flat bits/spade bits, they can work far better than common perception if nicely sharpened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-07-20T06:27:42.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14794" CreationDate="2023-07-20T08:27:42.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drill bits that small are rather flexible, as you've found.  For the unspecified softwood and &amp;quot;pine&amp;quot; commonly sold here, unless you're on the edge of a knot, the following method works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're also short.  This means that you can get much less flex by pushing the bit as far into the chuck as it will go.  You can even grind off the chuck end of the shank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That will allow you to drill a much more precisely-located hole, but a shallow one.  If you need deeper, you'll have to loosen the chuck and expose a bit more bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In metalworking &lt;a href=&quot;https://uk.farnell.com/ruko/217-010/drill-bit-centre-1mm/dp/378756&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;centre drills&lt;/a&gt; are common.  These have a very thick shank compared to the size of the hole, and again can't go deep.  But there's no danger of them wandering on a lathe.  You could use one to spot softwood, but the imitation approach is pretty much as good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However do note that a lot of small benchtop drill presses flex a bit (or don't run true), so even a stiff drill bit will move.  Again, taking a tip from metalworking, marking the hole with a bradawl can help.  You can also lower the press with it off, looking very closely and indent the workpiece with the non-spinning bit - but only if the bit is prevented from flexing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2023-07-20T08:27:42.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14794" CreationDate="2023-07-20T09:39:26.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Im not sure if this idea would work in this scenario, since the surface area for the glue is so small, but in general a handy solution for a sliding glue up can be salt.&#xA;Just salt the glued area before clamping the pieces together, the salt kernels work as minute dowels at the beginning and then presumably &amp;quot;melt away&amp;quot; in the glue while its dries.&#xA;Sorry if everyone already knew of that and just figured it is not applicable in this case, but maybe it helps ^^&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13541" LastActivityDate="2023-07-20T09:39:26.937" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14794" CreationDate="2023-07-20T19:51:20.070" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some fool-proof, simple and most importantly reliable way accurately drill very small holes 0.5 - 2mm (1/50&amp;quot; - 1/16&amp;quot;) in softwood with hard grain lines?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing is foolproof, but there are some things that can help prevent deflection:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;sharp bits:&lt;/strong&gt; Some people never think to sharpen their drill bits, but keeping them sharp helps them cut through harder areas more easily, limiting deflection.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;fairly high speed:&lt;/strong&gt; Higher speed allows for more cutting action. It can also cause heat to build up, though, so withdraw the bit periodically to clear the hole and give the bit a moment to cool down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;feed slowly:&lt;/strong&gt; Like the higher drill speed, feeding slowly gives the bit more time to cut straight instead of deflecting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;limit the bit length:&lt;/strong&gt; The more the bit sticks out from the chuck, the  further it can deflect. Small diameter dowels don't usually need to be very long, so the holes don't need to be deep. You don't want to tighten the chuck on the fluted part of the bit, of course, but there's no use in having more than a millimeter or two of the unfluted shank sticking out from the chuck. Also, it's not uncommon to snap small bits, and you can often sharpen the snapped bit to make a shorter but stiffer bit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2023-07-20T19:51:20.070" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14794" CreationDate="2023-07-21T03:02:23.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try this. Line a straightedge up with your point and use a sharp marking knife to draw a very short, deep, line. Turn the edge to a different direction and repeat to form a small X. Hammer in a fine nail, starting gently. It will not wander. This can be your guide hole or perhaps your final hole with a bigger nail. Practice this with variations on some scrap or on a hidden part of the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mistake, I think, is to get involved with rotation, either by using a drill press or by twisting an awl. Rotation brings you into contact with harder grain. Your fine chisel method avoided that. And if you are worried about those little X-marks, I think that at the end of the day they will be invisible after sanding or under whatever finish you use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4157" LastEditorUserId="4157" LastEditDate="2023-07-21T03:08:43.897" LastActivityDate="2023-07-21T03:08:43.897" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14803" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-21T21:41:26.603" Score="2" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like a dummy I used a traditional painters brush when applying shellac to a mdf surface top. I probably did five or six coats at this point I’ve lost count. I can now see obvious stroke marks from the brush. I just realized if I had used a foam brush those stroke marks may not be as visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it even possible to hide those marks if I apply a few more layers of shellac using a foam brush or is it not worth it? I guess at the end of the project I can live with them being present, I’m more curious for future projects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do plan on sanding the final coat lightly using a 600 grit or higher if I can find it, so ultimately not sure how much that would knock off. But from previous layers I’ve applied and then sanded using 400 grit those stroke marks are still visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13546" LastActivityDate="2023-07-22T04:17:36.320" Title="Hiding brush stroke marks when applying shellac on mdf" Tags="|shellac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14803" CreationDate="2023-07-22T04:17:36.320" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dry shellac remains soluble in its solvent. What this means is you can use the solvent to redissolve and redistribute the surface of a shellac film. Although it's a gross simplification this is the basis of French polishing, where the application tool (the &lt;em&gt;rubber&lt;/em&gt;) constantly moves around and partially redistributes the shellac right at the surface, and eventually polishes that surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in theory at least you could switch application tool to a rubber and start working the surface with it and eventually it would flatten out, partially from taking off the high spots but also from simultaneously building shellac in the low spots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But since you've applied quite a film of shellac already there's a much simpler, and quicker, alternative: you can simply sand it flat (or at least flatt&lt;strong&gt;er&lt;/strong&gt;, it doesn't need to be perfect to proceed to a subsequent step).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would have advised starting just a little coarser, but since you already have some 400 grit start there. Back the paper&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sand carefully and try your hardest not to let the sanding block overrun edges; take particular care at the corners as these are easily sanded through (if this happens don't panic, with shellac you can do touchups really easily and seamlessly). Eventually you should get down through all the brush marks to a level surface. You'll be able to tell when you've sanded enough as the surface will be uniformly matt, with zero shiny spots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After this you have options. You could try brushing on a final layer of shellac, but it's actually really difficult to brush-apply more than maybe 2-3 &lt;em&gt;thin&lt;/em&gt; coats of shellac and get a really good surface even with the right brush&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. Brush application gets progressively harder the more shellac is on the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;French polishing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;So instead, you could now switch to a rudimentary rubber&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; and apply the last couple of coats of shellac that way, using as much oil as necessary to lubricate the rubber. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gNiYFeZZLG0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;French Polishing MDF (short version)&lt;/a&gt; I wish the long version were still up but this will give you an idea of what you can achieve without too much time and effort, and without tons of practice. Don't be intimidated, trust me it is possible for a first-timer to get a really good result :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many more guides to French polishing online to get a little more detail and to see more of it in action. If you find you enjoy the process you can dive deeper by hitting the books. But I caution that at heart it is really a pretty simple process that is made to seem much harder than it is in some written sources; one of the secrets being to use plenty of oil. Many traditional guides suggest the absolute minimum is 'correct', and invariably then go on to state that excess oil is hard to remove which couldn't be further from the truth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Perfect the existing surface&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Alternatively, and assuming you didn't inadvertently sand through in any areas that need touching up, you can buff up the existing surface. If you need a pretty good gloss you can eventually polish to a high shine using a succession of finer grits. See these previous Questions for some more detail:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1420/leveling-a-finish-finishing-the-finish&quot;&gt;Leveling a finish/finishing the finish&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/756/how-do-i-achieve-a-piano-black-high-gloss-finish-on-wood&quot;&gt;How do I achieve a &amp;quot;piano black&amp;quot; high gloss finish on wood?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Because this is a flattening operation and not just scuff-sanding you need to back the paper with a firm surface of some kind, and not just your fingers. If you don't have a commercial sanding block or other kind of sandpaper holder just a small piece of wood will be work fine, a piece of 2x4 that fits into your hand neatly is perfectly sufficient. If you only have MDF on hand a small piece of that will also work fine, but ideally I'd laminate two pieces together to make it thicker and easier to hold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; The ideal brush type for this would be a fine-bristled synthetic brush, perhaps 2&amp;quot; wide. Both nylon (&amp;quot;Krylon&amp;quot;, typically orange) and polyester (usually white) brushes are suitable. A foam brush is very much not ideal for a built-up shellac film; they're actually quite crude applicators and can leave substantial 'brushmarks' despite their fine texture, so are best suited to finishes that dry more slowly which leaves time for the finish/paint to level out on its own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Just a square of clean, well-washed cotton or linen carefully pulled taut over the reservoir — traditionally a wad of cotton wool (although in the trade it was never called that!) but a scrunched-up tissue or paper towel work just as well LOL Any decent guide will give fuller instructions on how to fold the cloth to make a tight, firm rubber (either the more traditional teardrop shape or a simpler round one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-07-22T04:17:36.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14806" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-23T05:19:30.767" Score="1" ViewCount="304" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to make some nice looking speaker boxes. The only material I have access to is melamine MDF. I don't have a table saw, so I get it cut at the store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to bevel the edges so the corners will be at 45 degres (internal, so I can glue them) (I'll also have bracing inside so the corner glue won't be all of the support).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the best way to get 45 degree corners? I have a circular saw and a router. The problem with the circular saw is that I don't have tracks for it so I'll need to be creative (also of course finding the exact 45 deg position).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with the router is that 45 deg bits with 1&amp;quot; depth of cut (for 3/4&amp;quot; MDF) are rare and expensive. Or at least I haven't been able to find them&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I don't know if a beveling bit will chip the melamin. There are specific saws for circular saws to cut melamin MDF, so I suppose they will leave a clean cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13557" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-07-23T23:33:35.990" LastActivityDate="2023-07-23T23:33:35.990" Title="Beveled edges on melamine MDF" Tags="|mdf|miter-joint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14806" CreationDate="2023-07-23T13:15:42.003" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd use the circular saw. A track is nice to have, but not necessary. You can get a similar effect by clamping a guide to the work piece, and sliding the saw along that. The guide can be anything long and straight with a smooth edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12348" LastActivityDate="2023-07-23T13:15:42.003" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14806" CreationDate="2023-07-23T23:29:57.973" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For cleanliness of cut, safety (not for you, for the workpieces) and accuracy I would do this using the router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't a freehand operation, it's something for the router table but before you baulk at that if you don't already have a router table, as outlined a number of times previously here, the most rudimentary router table you can imagine would suffice — that's a piece of MDF/plywood/chipboard with a hole drilled through it, clamped to the edge of a table or workbench. If you prefer you could build a super-simple tabletop router table, for which there are now numerous plans and how-to videos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with the router is that 45 deg bits with 1&amp;quot; depth of cut (for 3/4&amp;quot; MDF) are rare and expensive. Or at least I haven't been able to find them&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there are affordable options now&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; but I'm going to recommend a different route anyway. You can sidestep the issue of finding a suitable 45° chamfering bit by using a straight-cutting bit, which of course you'll have much more use for down the line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that's needed in addition to the above is a simple jig. Such a jig can be a single-afternoon project, only requiring scraps of ply/MDF and some hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Caveat&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Regardless of the method you choose to use, you're going to have the devil of a time getting the result you're hoping for here, as &lt;em&gt;every edge will have to be basically perfect&lt;/em&gt;. Remember, just one errant chip along any visible edge and the flawless look is ruined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would &lt;strong&gt;much&lt;/strong&gt; rather use straight MDF (ideally a superior grade with higher density, but that's not essential) and then prime and paint it to a high standard, which isn't rocket surgery :-) This also means any chipping or roughness along any edge, even the most visible, becomes a non-issue..... which of course makes the top of the speakers &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply using a small roller you can reliably&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; achieve a very professional result which closely mimics a spraygun finish, using any decent enamel paint. And if you wanted to you could go further and achieve an automotive-level finish with more work and $$.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Just go straight to a Chinese vendor and sidestep any of the conventional online storefronts, which are mostly selling the same or very similar bits with a large markup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; It is possible to do this with rattlecan paints, but much, much harder to ensure a good result even with prior experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-07-23T23:29:57.973" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14810" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-25T14:43:36.737" Score="2" ViewCount="55" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am creating some floor-to-ceiling stud bay storage in a bathroom. Bathroom is small but has a vent fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using the RevolutionPly utility sheet goods to line the cabinets. I believe it is made of poplar. It’s pretty thin at 5 mm. I like the striation Of the grain and the slight pinkish cast, which is why I am using it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to seal the wood to protect it from stains from bathroom products that will be stored there. I’ve had several 1/4 sheets in the bathroom for at least six months while in use and have not noticed any substantial problems. There has been some bowing but no delaminating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m not concerned with waterproofing it as much as protecting it from stains. Just wondering what options I have for the finish. I have worked with shellac, lacquer, poly and spar. Mostly I want something that is quick to apply and dry without a lot of residual odor and that will help keep the surface clean/wipeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m also a bit concerned about the plywood veneer being so thin so I don’t want to use something water-based, according to the manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13565" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-07-25T18:21:45.517" LastActivityDate="2023-07-25T18:21:45.517" Title="Sealer for inside of bathroom cabinets [thin plywood]" Tags="|finishing|plywood|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14790" CreationDate="2023-07-25T21:18:43.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6MqDvdQX5oM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;I just came across this video,&lt;/a&gt; which starts with a guy using a bandsaw to cut a book into strips. So a bandsaw should work, (maybe even a jigsaw), as long as you're using something to compress the sheets together and keep them from sliding. You could use two sheets of plywood, and a whole bunch of clamps (you'd have to keep repositioning the clamps as you're cutting).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A laser cutter is another option. The machines for doing that cost thousands of dollars, but there are companies out there that will do it for you for a fee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12348" LastActivityDate="2023-07-25T21:18:43.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2491" CreationDate="2023-07-28T13:47:29.277" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I needed to reset a joint made of cedar that I had&#xA;fastened with Gorilla glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other sites suggested acetone or nail polish remover. I used acetone-free nail polish remover.(Contains ethyl acetate) I added a few drops to the joint, waited a few seconds, then gently worked a utility knife into the joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then repeated the process, applying the liquid to different seams along the joint, until the cedar pieces eventually worked free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process is a bit slow, but steady.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RLi5r.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RLi5r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image of nail polish remover containing ethyl acetate, and an Olfa utility knife&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DYVEJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DYVEJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A utility knife is gently inserted between two pieces of glued cedar wood. The nail polish remover is slightly visible, soaking into the wood around the joint seam.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13574" LastActivityDate="2023-07-28T13:47:29.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14814" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-29T11:35:02.183" Score="0" ViewCount="361" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am helping cleaning up a not for profit shed and one of the cabinets has this interesting fold down door with hinges made out of a nylon strap screwed to both the lower inside side of door and base of the cabinet frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They look a lot like &amp;quot;strap hinges&amp;quot; but my searches for the actual name of that approach to DIY hinges have yield no results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would anyone know what is the actual name for this sort of hinges?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13577" LastActivityDate="2023-07-29T11:35:02.183" Title="DIY hinge made out of nylon webbing" Tags="|hinges|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14664" CreationDate="2023-07-29T21:28:38.963" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a thought experiment. Take a 4 x 10 and span a gap with it. Put a uniform load on it until it deflects some small amount. Now take supersharp, super thin blade and slice the beam down the middle. The deflection of the beam won't change, since there were no lateral or twist forces applied to the beam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the real world, there are other considerations such as buckling, but that better not be a consideration - if it is, you've got bigger problems. The point is that if you do it right, and pay attention to issues like FreeMan's dimensional point, it's perfectly safe to build up beams. You don't want to do this in the vertical dimension, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="463" LastActivityDate="2023-07-29T21:28:38.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14816" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-30T16:00:56.540" Score="1" ViewCount="137" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a cedar porch swing that has been left to the elements for many years and is heavily weathered where the wood has grooves along the grain pattern. I'd like to restore this to a smooth finish, but not having much luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried down to 40 grit sandpaper with a power sander and it still doesn't seem to get it smooth enough to start working my way up the grits. I'm guessing it just takes a lot of time and elbow grease, but I feel like I'm getting diminishing returns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips short of disassembling it and running it through the planer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36" LastActivityDate="2023-08-03T20:36:01.880" Title="How do I get a smooth finish on heavily weathered wood?" Tags="|sanding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10806" CreationDate="2023-08-02T17:52:48.923" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For oily woods like maple, apply a good coat of shellac and let it dry for a week. Then apply the polyurathane or polyacrylic over the shellac.  The reason: the PU/PA finishes bond with the oils of the wood and form a substance that never dries.  The shellac doesn't bond with the wood oils, just forms a dry seal coat over the wood/oil surface. You'll end with a beautiful durable hard coat surface on you butcher block.  If you apply PA or PU directly to maple butcher block, you get a permanent sticky mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastActivityDate="2023-08-02T17:52:48.923" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14816" CreationDate="2023-08-03T20:36:01.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could apply layers of polyurethane until you've got a nice smooth surface. This is the same stuff they apply to bar tops to it will be very long wearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply apply thin layers until all the grooves are filled, then apply another couple of coats to ensure that highest points are sufficiently protected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2023-08-03T20:36:01.880" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14819" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14830" CreationDate="2023-08-03T22:59:13.343" Score="0" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;Robert Wearing in &lt;em&gt;The Essential Woodworker&lt;/em&gt; says (p. 153):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fig 311 shows a fairly typical bookcase with the shelves removed. The back consists of a frame with a centre muntin and four horizontal rails. Six panels are grooved into the frame. Such a framed back is a most effective way to stiffen up a carcase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cXxdm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cXxdm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the illustration, are we looking at the front or the back of the bookcase? If the back, then why does Wearing bother saying &amp;quot;with the shelves removed&amp;quot;? Do the &amp;quot;four horizontal rails&amp;quot; span the entire width of the carcase? Is the muntin that vertical piece in the center? Does the muntin divide the interior space of the bookcase in two or does it only run along the back of the carcase? Is the muntin anterior or posterior to the four horizontal rails? Is it attached to the rails or does it merely abut them? If attached, then in what fashion is it attached, or is that left open to personal taste? What parts in the illustration make up the frame, exactly? And since the six panels (I take it that these panels are the three big areas on the left and the three big areas on the right) are &amp;quot;grooved into the frame&amp;quot;, does that mean that they have tongues that are fitted into the rails, and that all the rails are grooved?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13401" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-08-04T02:21:36.133" LastActivityDate="2023-08-09T12:19:08.207" Title="Interpreting an illustration (fig. 311) in Robert Wearing's The Essential Woodworker" Tags="|construction|carcass|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2023-08-12T07:53:03.393" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14820" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14827" CreationDate="2023-08-04T14:37:21.120" Score="1" ViewCount="503" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm replacing some drawers I've had for a while that were built with the Hafele metal side and slider system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sMF1C.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sMF1C.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will be making these new drawers with wood as I'm upgrading the slides to full extension ones, however I like the width of the drawers I currently have as afforded by the thin metal sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it will be technically possible to build drawer boxes with 12mm instead of 18mm ply/mdf but I'm wondering if they will be 'strong' enough for my purpose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have experience of doing this, or know of any resources like Youtube video that show this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8149" LastActivityDate="2023-08-07T18:57:51.300" Title="Thin wood (~12mm) for drawer boxes" Tags="|drawer|drawer-construction|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14776" CreationDate="2023-08-05T01:39:17.283" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm gonna post this even though it might be a dumb idea, but it's a cheap option.  This does assume you have some very basic tools though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insert a decent-sized screw into one end of the dowel, in the center of the circle.  I would suggest drilling a pilot hole first to keep the dowel from splitting.  Leave 1½ inches of the screw sticking out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut off the head of the screw with a hacksaw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the screw into your drill.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hold some sandpaper in your hand and cradle the dowel in it, while spinning it with the drill.  Work evenly along the dowel's length to keep the sanding consistent.  Keep doing this until you reach the desired thickness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few caveats:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's very tricky to keep the sandpaper in your hand while preventing the dowel from grabbing it (I know this from experience).  But after a few minutes you'll get a feel for the right amount of grip.  Wearing a work glove would probably be a good idea too.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Given your dowel's length, this may be a 2-person job.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might think this would be a tedious job, but if the dowel is a soft wood like pine, and the sandpaper is a course grit (80 would be good), you can remove a lot of material pretty quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13280" LastActivityDate="2023-08-05T01:39:17.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14822" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14826" CreationDate="2023-08-05T22:40:16.767" Score="1" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;What causes the splitty defect pictured below? Is there a special name for it? I think that working it out with hand planes would require removing too much of the surrounding wood. (Am I mistaken in that suspicion?) What hand-tools or materials would smooth out the defect with minimal wood-loss?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VdqmD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VdqmD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;d &quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13401" LastEditorUserId="13401" LastEditDate="2023-08-06T14:36:30.720" LastActivityDate="2023-08-07T19:09:45.203" Title="What is this choppy defect called and what was it caused by?" Tags="|hand-tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14823" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-07T14:43:57.857" Score="2" ViewCount="3542" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's suppose that I want to manufacture and sell bed frames. Instead of a plain square, I want all 4 corners to be rounded, simply for aesthetic purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this increase the cost to manufacture this item significantly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jaSDF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jaSDF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13603" LastEditorUserId="13603" LastEditDate="2023-08-07T14:59:15.253" LastActivityDate="2023-08-25T11:45:46.360" Title="Are round corners costly?" Tags="|round|roundover|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14823" CreationDate="2023-08-07T15:24:44.883" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bigger the sweep the more expensive it will be,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to cut out the corner sweep out of a larger block of wood. You might be able to nest some of the corners and save some wood that way. But then the cuts become a lot more complicated&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more straightforward solution is to not have the corners be solid wood and instead use something like bent lamination and a veneer to fake the corner being a solid bit of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2023-08-07T15:24:44.883" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14823" CreationDate="2023-08-07T17:13:49.607" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your cost is going to be roughly the cost of the wood (raw material) that is removed, combined with the time (labor cost) it takes to remove it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The greater of the two would be the time (labor cost) in shaping the corner. Cutting the curve on all four legs at once and so forth will keep the cost to a minimum. However both of these costs are very highly dependent upon the wood you're using and the efficiency of the methods and skill of the person used to make the curve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is, using somewhat optimized methods, the general cost would not be significantly affected in a commercial production environment fully stocked with tools and experienced workers. Doing this in a small shop with limited tools could be a bit harder and require more labor for a &amp;quot;one-off&amp;quot; build.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2023-08-07T19:05:05.157" LastActivityDate="2023-08-07T19:05:05.157" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14822" CreationDate="2023-08-07T17:36:04.713" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have no idea if there's a name for it. (&amp;quot;chatter marks&amp;quot; maybe?) I've always assumed that to be damage from processing or handling during the lumber sawing processes. As the wood is cut, it is frequently moved from one place to the other during the process by falling on to moving chains or belts. I imagine the guys at the saw mill have a name for it, but I doubt that it goes much further than those circles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Gratuitous video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YrJas4_L4Wo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YrJas4_L4Wo&lt;/a&gt; It's a long one, but shows the whole process.) Maybe this is more to the point: &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/YrJas4_L4Wo?t=180&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/YrJas4_L4Wo?t=180&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have suggested it could be damage from the banding and or shipping processes as well. It looks like the photo shows a construction grade SPF 2x4 and the damage is consistent with what I've seen very frequently in those products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This particular &amp;quot;defect&amp;quot; would be considered insignificant in that context and largely ignored during framing/construction. Nobody building a house would take the time to &amp;quot;fix&amp;quot; the boards or reject them for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Damage like this is another reason why building &amp;quot;nice&amp;quot; furniture or wooden objects that are meant to show a &amp;quot;higher degree of craftsmanship&amp;quot; with construction grade lumber isn't usually done. The trends for &amp;quot;farmhouse&amp;quot; furniture and so on has gone against this general practice recently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably the best way to get rid of this would be to run the board through a thickness planer or use a hand plane if that's more to your liking. I suppose it could be done by sanding as well... but that's a lot of sanding. If the finished object is something that you intend to paint, wood filler could be used I'd imagine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps the best ways to deal with this, if you didn't want to remove the damage, would be to turn the board over (if possible) so that this surface is hidden, be more selective about which boards you take home with you to avoid the problem entirely, or make it a &amp;quot;design feature&amp;quot; of what it is you are building.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2023-08-07T19:09:45.203" LastActivityDate="2023-08-07T19:09:45.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14820" CreationDate="2023-08-07T18:57:51.300" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since your concerns seem to be centered around the thickness (or thinness) of the material, let me start with the fact that I've built &amp;quot;plenty&amp;quot; of drawers out of 12mm (1/2&amp;quot;) material using several methods and they have all proven to be very strong. Much of my shop furniture and the cabinets in my wife's studio were built with 1/2&amp;quot; thick plywood drawers and 1/4&amp;quot; bottom panels. They have held up quite well over the years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Preference for Plywood over MDF&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plywood is much stronger than MDF because it is made of actual wood layers, or &amp;quot;veneers&amp;quot;; the grain of each layer runs 90 degrees to the layers above and below it. MDF is made from fine wood pulp and glue like cake batter that gets pressed into a sheet. Because of this, plywood is more durable. Also because of this, plywood holds screws much better than MDF does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using 1/2&amp;quot; Plywood in place of 3/4&amp;quot;: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=en48E7UVzzc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=en48E7UVzzc&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using Plywood/MDF: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I0-fs1eMxQg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I0-fs1eMxQg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&amp;quot;Quarter-Quarter-Quarter&amp;quot; technique for making drawers of 1/2&amp;quot; sheet stock&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This technique is specifically designed to use 1/2&amp;quot; (12mm) plywood to make drawers. I've built a &amp;quot;gazillion&amp;quot; drawers using this technique. The name relates to a quarter inch being 1/2 of the half-inch material thickness. I suppose in your case you would be pursuing a 6-6-6(mm) technique....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially you want to cut a dado/groove half the thickness of your material located half the thickness from the end of your drawer sides and take away half the thickness of your drawer ends to form interlocking grooves and tabs which, when glued together form strong drawer boxes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sc5SP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sc5SP.png&quot; alt=&quot;&amp;quot;borrowed&amp;quot; from: ThisIsCarpentry.com&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beauty of the &amp;quot;system&amp;quot; is that you can set up a table saw or router table once and do all the cuts without changing the setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This video demonstrates it like this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Z3pMyNPfi0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Z3pMyNPfi0&lt;/a&gt;  Not only easy to do, but very durable. Here's the same, but with it explained for different stock thicknesses: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HQXHzvJNsoA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HQXHzvJNsoA&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/various-woodworking-crafts-topics/the-quarter-quarter-quarter-drawer-system/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/various-woodworking-crafts-topics/the-quarter-quarter-quarter-drawer-system/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastActivityDate="2023-08-07T18:57:51.300" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14823" CreationDate="2023-08-08T03:38:32.657" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whether the added cost is &amp;quot;significant&amp;quot; depends a lot on how much the balance of the design costs. More directly, however, the rounded corner will probably add a couple of hours of labor plus material costs. Unlike the previous two posts, I don't see that you will be able to cut these from solid stock, at least for a radius similar to that shown in the photo. It will be very difficult to source stock that thick and will have very limited choices of species. A bent lamination is possible, but a radius like that shown will require thin plies, certainly ⅛&amp;quot; or less, which will be time consuming to produce and form. You might be able to bend a core from bending ply or kerfed plywood, then veneer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My approach would be to make a staved quarter cylinder perhaps with extensions at the tangents. By selecting the number of segments you can control the deviation from a true cylinder, and hence how much finishing is need to get a smooth curve. If you keep your staves in order and use a thin kerf blade for the bevel cuts you can preserve the grain pattern. And you don't end up wasting huge amounts of wood. You can also use the same stock you use for the balance of the frame, which maintains a consistent look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kOu0D.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kOu0D.png&quot; alt=&quot;staved construction&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13608" LastEditorUserId="13608" LastEditDate="2023-08-08T03:58:16.090" LastActivityDate="2023-08-08T03:58:16.090" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14823" CreationDate="2023-08-08T20:17:19.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are certainly cheaper solutions to achieve rounded corners than what appears in your photo. But if cheap isn't the look you’re going for the tool you want is an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.behringersaws.com/products/behringer-bandsaws/vertical-bandsaws/lps-automatic/lps40-160-4a.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;automatic band saw&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MdMlM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MdMlM.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No handling the work while cutting. Deals with nesting. But if you can fit this in your garage you have one heck of a garage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13612" LastEditorUserId="13612" LastEditDate="2023-08-25T11:45:46.360" LastActivityDate="2023-08-25T11:45:46.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14819" CreationDate="2023-08-09T12:19:08.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically, when a bookcase is discussed &amp;quot;with the shelves removed,&amp;quot; it's referring to the back of the bookcase. The reason for mentioning the removal of the shelves is likely to provide a clear view of the structure and construction of the case itself without the shelves obstructing the view.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The horizontal rails would span the entire width of the carcase to provide stability and support. As for muntin it would indeed be the central vertical piece. Whether it divides the interior space or runs along the back would depend on the specific design of the bookcase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also in many designs, the muntin is posterior to the horizontal rails, meaning it's closer to the back of the bookcase. It could either be attached to the rails using joinery methods or merely abut them, again, depending on the specific design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the frame.. It usually refers to the outer structure that holds everything together. It would typically include the sides of the bookcase and the horizontal rails. And yes, when panels are &amp;quot;grooved into the frame&amp;quot;, it typically means that the panels have tongues that fit into grooves in the rails. The rails, muntin, and potentially the sides of the bookcase would generally all be grooved to accept the tongues of the panels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13614" LastActivityDate="2023-08-09T12:19:08.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14831" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-11T06:27:00.383" Score="0" ViewCount="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to intentionally de-laminate bent bed slats - think &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ikea.com/cz/en/p/luroey-slatted-bed-base-90160211/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Luroy Ikea Slats&lt;/a&gt; - I want to get the individual veneer strips out of these so that I can re-bend (probably steam) and glue together into different shapes.&#xA;The wood is pretty hard (I think it is birch). I believe these are glued together, but I don't know what type glue is used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I have tried so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;soaking it in water (up to 24 hours most - should I try longer?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;steaming them (although only with a handheld clothes steamer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All I was able to get was one strip out of one slat while destroying the rest of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for advice on how to de-laminate these intentionally so that I get the most of the wood out in strips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any chemicals I should try?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I leave it soaking in water for longer than 24 hours?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I steam it extensively in a steam box (which I don't have yet)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anything else?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13620" LastActivityDate="2023-08-11T06:27:00.383" Title="Intentionally de-laminating bent bed slats" Tags="|veneer|laminating|steam-bending|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14833" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-13T23:05:06.723" Score="0" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/a/G2WfXfM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Link to imgur album with pictures&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qt0C2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qt0C2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;So my wife and I recently bought a nice starter home and now we are planning to remodel parts of the house. We are interviewing a few General Contractors to explain what we want and find out whats possible. Though I still want to attempt somethings on my own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the things I want to do on my own is strip and paint the cabinets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Removing the cabinet doors to strip the varnish shouldn't be too hard (I think) but I want to know about the portions in red boxes (see link above), the parts of the cabinets mounted into the walls. What can I do to strip the varnish from the wall mounted portions of my cabinets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not even sure what to google to find a satisfying answer for my question. What would I call those portions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if the answer is honestly. &amp;quot;Dude just buy new cabinets and have them installed, thats fine as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I may post this to the reddit home improvement subreddit as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you guys again I do appreciate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13629" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2023-08-14T16:56:58.790" LastActivityDate="2023-08-14T16:56:58.790" Title="How to strip varnish off wood cabinets?" Tags="|wood|cabinetry|varnish|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4658" CreationDate="2023-08-14T18:56:42.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just spent two hours removing Behandla oil with a steel wool!&#xA;I tried using sandpaper, but as mentioned in another comment above  the 'beads' of oil clogged the sandpaper. I also found that I could only run the sander in one direction!! If i went back over what I had just sanded, without wiping the beads away,&#xA;I noticed it would kinda push the oil  into the wood making the bench tops turn brown/ grey in that area, and making the sanding process longer and more painful!! Hence I restored to steel wool.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I could tell when I'd removed all the oil, it comes off in little balls.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I then had to go over it with the sander again,  quite a few more time, to remove the scratches I'd created from the steel wool!!! I was still, changing the sandpaper regularly as it was still picking up beads of oil, but nowhere near as much as before. Eventually, I was able to remove all the scratches and oil.&#xA;Wood comes off as little dust particles when sanded and the oil was coming off as little balls.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This all happened, because yes, one time I got lazy, I put too much oil on, and didn't wipe it properly!!&#xA;A lot of hard work for something that could have been prevented, had I wiped the oil off and done the job properly in the first place!&#xA;Prior to that, I've had the bench top for about 5 years,  and I loved the Behandla. I thought it was a great product and worked really well. Never had a sicky bench it all, but the one time I didn't do it properly, that's what happened.&#xA;This is my personal experience with Behandla, hope it helps someone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13631" LastActivityDate="2023-08-14T18:56:42.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14836" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14837" CreationDate="2023-08-15T22:57:50.543" Score="1" ViewCount="1345" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few years ago, I finished some &amp;quot;butcherblock&amp;quot; (stave construction glue up countertop).  I did 3 coats of BLO then used a homemade wiping varnish of gloss polyurethane mixed with MS.  The exact product I used for the MS was labeled &amp;quot;paint thinner&amp;quot; and in the fine print it said &amp;quot;100% mineral spirits&amp;quot;.  I liked the results and want to do something similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, now I can not find 100% mineral spirits.  Instead I find a wide variety of products that call themselves mineral spirits or paint thinner, with words such as &amp;quot;odorless&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;green&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;fast to dissolve&amp;quot;, etc.  There is &amp;quot;odorless mineral spirits&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;odorless mineral spirits substitute&amp;quot;.  What was easy (buy 100% mineral spirits) is now impossible and there are so many choices my head is spinning.  I have no idea which one I should buy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little bit of googling found some very poor reviews of these newer products compared to good old fashioned mineral spirits.  But unfortunately I don't think I can get my hands on the old stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question:&#xA;Can one of these products be used in exactly the same way as the 100% mineral spirits I had before, or how will I need to modify my approach?  Which one(s) are most similar or otherwise recommended?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10866" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-08-17T04:02:28.000" LastActivityDate="2024-04-01T20:20:18.510" Title="What's the difference between 100% mineral spirits and similar products? (paint thinner, odorless mineral spirits, etc)" Tags="|finishing|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14836" CreationDate="2023-08-16T08:02:11.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can still buy standard OMS (&amp;quot;odourless&amp;quot; mineral spirits) this should work for most purposes in wood finishing, despite its reduced solvent action. In addition to the &lt;em&gt;greatly&lt;/em&gt; reduced odour it is actually materially safer, so for many it's worth using anyway despite the higher pricetag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While users should bear in mind that it isn't as strong as other solvents in the same family, and there &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be some future use where this becomes an issue, Bob Flexner noted in the past (my emphasis):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mineral spirits left after the toluene and xylene are removed is sold as “odorless” mineral spirits. When understood this way, it’s obvious that odorless mineral spirits is a weaker solvent than regular mineral spirits.&#xA;But I’ve never found this to be a problem. &lt;strong&gt;It still appears to be strong enough to thin all common oils, varnishes and oil paints.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Source:&lt;/strong&gt; Popular Woodworking, December 2007&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For anyone who can't get plain ol' mineral spirits any more I suspect you're almost certainly not going to be able to find any of the following either, but I'll list them for posterity anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stoddard solvent&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;paint thinner&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;VM&amp;amp;P Naphtha&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;naphtha (note: sometimes miss-spelled as naptha)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;xylene (xylol)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;toluene (toluol)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this is roughly in ascending order of strength, but also of pungent odour, so please note if you're at all sensitive to solvent smells&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More here from Bob Flexner on the sequence of petroleum-distillate solvents,  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodshopnews.com/columns-blogs/petroleum-distillates&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Petroleum distillates&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-08-16T08:02:11.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14838" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14843" CreationDate="2023-08-16T11:28:13.467" Score="2" ViewCount="108" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I built a scissor-style laptop raiser and book lectern. It works fine, but the weighty laptop requires much tightening of the wingnuts, making me fear that over time the wood will crack (they're some simple pine scraps and I already remember hearing some cracking, although not much).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y6Zzc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y6Zzc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The laptop raiser in its wholeness&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The logical way forward seems to be increasing the friction between the arms at the contact points by gluing some material (or something like Nordlock nuts) to both parts, thus increasing the friction coefficient between the surfaces. That would enable me to get more force of friction per unit of normal (~tightening) force, reducing sliding and the need for drastic tightening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have researched about the best materials for increasing friction, and thought that the best options would be either two pieces of rubber on both sides or something like anti-slip tape, or perhaps the aforementioned expensive Nord-lock type nuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also want to avoid wood abrasion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the simplest, quickest and least expensive way to increase the overall strength and/or decrease the need for tightening per unit of &amp;quot;strength&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13635" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-08-22T07:35:08.013" LastActivityDate="2023-08-22T07:35:08.013" Title="How can I increase the resistance in an adjustable scissor-lift?" Tags="|wood|furniture|strength|materials|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12883" CreationDate="2023-08-16T14:17:46.960" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mt attempt hope this helps someone! Maybe get a cnc out of some laminate or composite panel!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EdJXu.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EdJXu.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13637" LastEditorUserId="13637" LastEditDate="2023-08-16T14:18:47.633" LastActivityDate="2023-08-16T14:18:47.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14840" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-15T19:20:33.440" Score="2" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just got myself a Kreg Pocket Hole Jig, but I'm stuck because the measurements are imperial. I have a 35mm plank, but the jig only has 13, 19 and 38mm. I understand that 35mm is only a few mm off 38mm, but should I still somehow push the stop tabs back a little? I'm planning to use 51mm pocket screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice appreciated. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13634" OwnerDisplayName="John M." LastActivityDate="2023-09-11T18:38:58.607" Title="How to position pocket hole jig for 35mm thick plank?" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14841" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-16T14:28:43.487" Score="0" ViewCount="163" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanted to get the communities feedback on structural soundness of this shelf design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/faVuQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/faVuQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm creating one for my 3D printer (sits on top shelf), books (middle two shelves) and small organizer bins (bottom, open area). I am new to wood working but have been doing mechanical design with metals for two years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I estimate any given shelf will take on a load at max of 50 pounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brown pieces of wood are 1 x 3 pine. The lighter colored shelves are 1&amp;quot; thickness laminated boards. The joint connections are all done by screws (not currently shown). The overall dimensions are about &lt;strong&gt;42&amp;quot; x 17&amp;quot; x 33&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll be cutting the fillet corners by hand using a jig saw and a file. I'll glue a printed profile and eyeball it (doesn't need to be perfect). I'm open to other methods!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://cad.onshape.com/documents/55fc4f0f71d24c41fff86e76/w/cfce31422fef5f86c737bc0b/e/ffa22a4343af031cd751b675?renderMode=0&amp;amp;uiState=64dcdbe5ed35fb0dbccae1fd&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;web-viewable OnShape file&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; for those who want to fly around and get specific dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Specific questions:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the most cost effective type of wood for the shelf boards? I would like to keep them as thin as possible to increase shelf space, but I know the thinner the board, the more likely sagging and board splitting (from the mounting screws) will be.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are the back vertical members enough to prevent racking?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Front View:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lkazM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lkazM.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Side View:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7dDLp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7dDLp.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Top View:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cBQJG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cBQJG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13638" LastEditorUserId="13638" LastEditDate="2023-08-17T02:45:04.260" LastActivityDate="2023-09-21T08:03:45.420" Title="Feedback on Shelf Design" Tags="|furniture|design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14838" CreationDate="2023-08-17T15:16:09.320" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect a combination approach is the way to go here, so that you're not hanging your hopes on one potential fix that might not do &lt;em&gt;quite&lt;/em&gt; enough (especially over time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The compression of the wood under the washers is unsightly and obviously you want to minimise this, but just to mention there is a limit to how far this will progress, and eventually the wood reaches its maximum compression.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the first thing I would suggest doing is installing fender washers&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; under each wingnut. These will spread the load as the nuts are tightened and reduce the compression. You can install the fender washers under the existing washers or in place of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I suspect the thing that will make the most difference is to fit something at each hinging location that provides much more friction than wood on wood. So I would make washers from something like thin rubber sheeting (old bicycle inner tube works if you happen to have a source) or a cork-rubber composite, e.g. Crubber&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. Both of these materials are used to line woodworking vice jaws and reduce slippage, and both can be cut easily using scissors so you don't need a set of punches or anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you clearly already have a drill, I would sandwich the washer material between two scraps, clamp tightly, drill a series of holes a sufficient distance apart, unclamp and then simply hand cut washers with the holes as centred as your OCD demands :-) &lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Large washers with a small hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; No endorsement, it's just the only brand I know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; For anyone who ever needs to make something like this as perfect as possible without a punch, here's one neat trick. Start with a template made by drilling through thin plywood, MDF or hardboard with a sharp flat bit/spade bit or Forstner. The resultant hole can be placed over the pre-drilled central hole with surprising accuracy purely by eye; not every one will be perfect, but if you take your time you shouldn't be out by more than 0.5mm every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-08-17T15:16:09.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14844" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-18T06:17:33.167" Score="3" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good day&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We use Jorgensen parallel clamps in our workshop for most glue ups. Ever since cleaning the clamps with a steel brush, we get blue staining in the form of speckles despite the clamps not touching the workpiece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clamps have been cleaned several times with various solvents and a paste wax has been applied to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the clamps touch the workpiece the transfer of the blue stain is worse and most concentrated below the clamps indicating that it is coming from the steel of the clamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems as though the speckles around the clamps are created when wiping the glue squeeze out with a wet cloth, even when the cloth doesn’t touch the clamps which themselves are raised from the workpiece. The cloth itself is stained blue after wiping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both the staining on the workpiece and the cloth is only visible after a couple hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions on how to avoid this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t9OOV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t9OOV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13643" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2023-08-21T12:05:41.630" LastActivityDate="2023-08-21T12:05:41.630" Title="Staining/marking from clamps during glue up" Tags="|staining|glue|clamps|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14844" CreationDate="2023-08-19T08:48:49.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clamps have been cleaned several times with various solvents and a paste wax has been applied to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is exactly what I was going to advise unfortunately, so I'm bummed it didn't resolve the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions on how to avoid this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this was just on panel glue-ups I wouldn't be overly concerned about this level of iron staining in most present-day workshops environments due to the amount of post-processing these go through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But obviously there are many other glue-up situations, and prevention is better than cure, so test all of the following &lt;em&gt;one at a time&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Change the water used&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;It's quite common for domestic water supplies to contain some amount of dissolved iron. Try once with distilled water. If this still occurs you rule out the water being the source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use different wiping cloths&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I suggest once using paper towels instead and if it still occurs it should rule out the cloths (shop rags?) being the culprit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using shop rags and they are contaminated with tiny amounts of iron just a fresh box might resolve the issue. Testing the cloths separately, nowhere near these clamps, seems like it would be a good use of time as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Test the glue&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Again, do this nowhere near the clamps. Test a thin smear of glue on a scrap of oak. It's unlikely but conceivably possible that the glue itself is contaminated with iron. If it turns out this is the cause, contact Franklin &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.franklinadhesivesandpolymers.com/home/contact-us.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;directly&lt;/a&gt; or through the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.titebond.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Titebond&lt;/a&gt; site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If each of these doesn't work I think it conclusively proves the clamps are the source of the problem.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just checked my most-used clamps of similar construction, which all have chrome-plated bars. When I wipe mine down, vigorously, with a paper towel virtually no grey/black is transferred to the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do this and you get significant black stains on the paper then it suggest that the wipe brushing might have exposed bare steel along the 'knurling' along the edge. (Although it's not clear to me from photos whether the Jorgensen clamps still have chrome-plated bars or if they're now bare steel.) In which case it might be time to consider buying new clamps :-(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Until the issue is resolved, an aid to removing the staining&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;It's only a stopgap but in case you're not currently aware, treating with concentrated &lt;strong&gt;oxalic acid&lt;/strong&gt; solutions should remove the iron staining, greatly reducing the amount of sanding or scraping that is currently needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-08-19T08:48:49.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14846" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14847" CreationDate="2023-08-21T22:50:50.817" Score="2" ViewCount="253" Body="&lt;p&gt;From googling, I have learned that some people recommend wet sanding while you apply BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil).   I've read a few different reasons as to why one might do this.  Some say it helps fill pores, and this is what I'm interested in.  The last piece I finished has some noticeable yellow streaks in pale sapwood due to pores being filled with finish.  (EDIT: I've realized with help from Graphus that actually the yellow color in the pores is inherent in the wood.  Possibly the finish added more yellow, and certainly it accentuated it, as a BLO finish is supposed to accentuate the colors in the wood, but the wood itself is yellow in those pores.)  Not sure if it would have been the BLO or the wipe on poly that I'm seeing, but I'm hoping to avoid a similar issue this time, as this wood also has visible pores in pale areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where I get confused is that some say you must first apply a coat of BLO with a brush or rag, to act as a sealer.  And then only on the second application do you start the wet sanding.  It seems to me that sealing it would, at least partially, fill in the pores with pure BLO rather than a slurry.  Others do recommend starting the wet sanding process on the first coat.  And of course none of them discuss the pros &amp;amp; cons of the 2 possibilities; they just say &amp;quot;do X&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;do Y&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is as in the title.  What are the pros &amp;amp; cons of the 2 different methods?  I'm especially interested in knowing what is the harm, if any, of starting the wet sanding on the first application, but I expect there are angles this newbie hasn't thought of that I might should be aware of.  And if you want to throw in any comments about how well wet sanding during application fills in pores and what the result will look like, I'll appreciate those as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do have a bit of scrap I'm going to test on, and I guess I'll need to divide it into 3 sections (no wet sanding, wet sanding on first coat, and wet sanding only starting on second coat).  I just feel like there are likely things I'll miss either due to the small surface of my test or the small time before I'll start finishing the actual project or just my inexperience, so I felt it was worthwhile to get some advice from people more experienced than I.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10866" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2023-08-23T14:08:05.497" LastActivityDate="2023-08-23T14:08:05.497" Title="What are the pros &amp; cons of wet sanding the first coat of BLO on bare wood?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14846" CreationDate="2023-08-22T05:46:04.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if you want to throw in any comments about how well wet sanding during application fills in pores and what the result will look like, I'll appreciate those as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this is the heart of the query, and the pros and cons you asked for will cover this which is why I've answered out of sequence and the pro/con list follows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to note, most of the following applies equally to wet-sanding any finish into wood, not just boiled linseed oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pros&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&amp;quot;Saves a separate step.&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You save a separate step, yay! But there's a reason I put this in quotes as the cons will cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite this being one of the most-cited reasons to wet-sand using finish, so it has to be included in the pros list, it's not as simple as implied/outright stated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You don't need a separate product for this purpose.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's evident benefit in keeping things as simple as possible in finishing, and if you can keep from cluttering the finish shelves or cabinet with yet another thing... that's a legitimate pro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You are actually filling the grain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speaks for itself really, but there are caveats which are what the cons list is all about......&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cons&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hard to control if there's some sapwood present.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is difficult to outright impossible to control how the grain gets filled with the sanding slurry where there is both sapwood and heartwood present; similar issue on any wood that exhibits a strong colour contrast, or where contrast has been artificially created using a mixture of species is used in the project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a very similar issue just with plain sanding of wood that has sapwood present, or on mixed-species projects with some pale wood and some darker wood. So for example you certainly don't want walnut heartwood sanding dust in the much much paler sapwood. Or vice versa! In normal sanding it is just about possible to get such cross-contamination out, however when wet-sanding you're not dealing with a dry dust that can be blown or brushed out of the open grain......&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While this does fill the grain it doesn't do it efficiently.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were grain filling more conventionally you'd fill the grain in, at most, two stages. You fill, get rid of excess filler, and you're done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While with wet-sanding finish you do this what, three times at least? And some guides call for doing it many more times... so are we &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; saving a step? And we're certainly not saving &lt;em&gt;time&lt;/em&gt;, which is the underlying implication. Any grain filler worth its salt is dry overnight. Some dry in under an hour!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, each 'application' of grain filler using this method involves some sanding, which inevitably removes some of the filler already present. I'm sure anyone who has tried this has noticed the effect, particularly in shallow grain lines. So there can definitely be a bit of a &lt;em&gt;two steps forward, one step back&lt;/em&gt; kind of thing going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using BLO for this is hardly ideal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BLO is fundamentally a slow-drying finish, despite the &lt;em&gt;greatly&lt;/em&gt; sped up curing time compared to raw linseed oil. While there are some BLOs that cure much faster than others it's still not ideal for a couple of reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BLO almost invariably has a distinct colour (although there's more colour variation than one might expect). This colouring of course gets imparted to the filled grain. Filling grain darker is often exactly what it desired, however it isn't always. And on paler species you might want it barely darker but there's no control over what you get when you fill the grain this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BLO never dries hard. It might feel hard on/in the wood, but we should be under no illusions that it is actually hard; that's mostly the wood we're feeling. Once &lt;em&gt;fully&lt;/em&gt; cured (which takes about a month!) BLO is still a gelled solid, not a hard substance, so the filled grain is not nearly as hard as the surrounding wood. (Although to be fair, this is also true of nearly every commercial grain-filling product, past and present.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conclusion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;There's obviously some benefit to the basic technique in certain situations. And like with all finishing how much you like doing something — the innate appeal of the process — is fundamental to many people's finishing regimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But BLO is not the thing to do it with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So, alternatives?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Actual pore fillers/grain fillers (both names for the same thing).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned above, these are generally far more efficient at doing what is desired — filling the grain better, can dry much faster, and potentially give better control over the colour of the grain fill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filling with the final finish itself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apply enough film finish and the grain gets filled in along the way. The process &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; slowed, because there's some amount of sanding back either in stages or in one step near or at the end, but it's a far simpler process with fewer gotchas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here's a key thing: it may be the best way to highlight the real beauty of the wood, which is what we're really after in all of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Any&lt;/em&gt; opaque grain-filling material, including almost all conventional pore-filler products, is just like wood filler in being a dull or 'dead' material that doesn't catch the light. A film finish on the other hand is a transparent material which you see right through and can transmit light &lt;em&gt;in both directions&lt;/em&gt;, both into and back out of the wood. So the result can be a noticeably &amp;quot;clearer&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;brighter&amp;quot; surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't seek to fill the grain at all.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no rule that says one has to fill the grain, especially today when people have a genuine appreciation for wood projects showing off the original character of the wood used, flaws and all. And there's a general liking for a close-to-the wood result, which is counter to the whole idea of grain filling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a matter of taste as much as anything whether one should partially or completely fill the grain of open-pored species such as oak, walnut, sapele. It absolutely has its place but for many common projects it's simply not needed, and no particular attention need be paid to whether the grain gets filled or not (as long as it's fairly uniform).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-08-22T05:46:04.703" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14841" CreationDate="2023-08-22T07:29:01.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an unconventional design in certain ways, and without a formal box exterior, and either a solid back or some form of diagonal bracing it might seem like it would be prone to racking but I think this is only if viewed superficially&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Screws are a pretty firm fastener, allowing much less flex than nails for example, and the more of any fastener you add the greater the overall strength and stiffness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way I am interpreting how this will be put together there will be 10 screws per shelf at minimum, but I don't see any reason not to use two screws at every intersection which means 14 per shelf, so 42 screws overall. I don't see any reasonable force that can break free or snap over 40 screws. It may not be the stiffest thing ever made, but it doesn't have to be and if it's screwed together well I'm certain it will be more than strong enough for what it needs to do&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The real challenge here&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Because there's no formal joinery here it doesn't hold itself up, and no part rests upon or intersects with another. So holding the various pieces in correct alignment initially is going to the hardest part. Some careful marking out, numerous clamps and, I would recommend, a couple of temporary clamping blocks, are going to be needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the initial pilot holes are drilled it becomes relatively straightforward to assemble this, after the clearance holes and countersinks/counterbores are all done (assuming they're not drilled in a single operation using a combination countersinking bit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was going to give a suggestion for a small change to the design to improve strength, but I just don't think it's necessary if this is completely (and properly) screwed together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the following Answer if you're an all woolly on where you need to drill pilot holes and clearance holes (see the bottom of &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2708/are-there-specific-types-of-screws-i-should-use-for-woodworking/2714#2714&quot;&gt;this Answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Might as well also link to this on screws and end grain given the prevailing belief that they're so weak you can't rely on them, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/7898/endgrain-screw-withdrawal-force/7988#7988&quot;&gt;Endgrain screw withdrawal force&lt;/a&gt;. I don't know about you, but I consider a loss of only 25% of holding power no big deal, especially when it can be compensated for in multiple ways &lt;em&gt;and they can all be used together&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; This can't be considered in any way other than as a complete system, a single unit. The examples given in woodworking books demonstrating racking show e.g. a cabinet box without a back, which is prone to parallelogramming when any force is exerted from the side, but when the back is added the potential for that goes away. This is no different in that its resistance to racking must be considered as a whole, not looking at any one section of it in isolation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; I have a couple of shelving units of very different types in my home that don't have solid backs and are not braced diagonally instead. When they're slid about with no contents removed (which we're not supposed to do, but most of us do anyway) they &lt;em&gt;DO&lt;/em&gt; rack. But when they're sitting there statically holding their contents, like 99.9999% of the time, they're perfectly stable. As they have been since about 1980.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; And that is moving the horizontals on the end frames inboard of the vertical members, and repositioning them so one edge aligns with the sheves. This would allow for more screws to go into the end grain of the shelves, There's a big change in the aesthetics,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-08-22T07:29:01.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14849" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14850" CreationDate="2023-08-23T01:15:58.277" Score="4" ViewCount="431" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-28-portable-sawmill/g0901&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Grizzly portable sawmill&lt;/a&gt;, which I've owned for about 3 years.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yiqqt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yiqqt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; It's a piece of shit, but it's what I have. It requires constant maintenance and adjustments to just make it work. I hate working with it, but now and then a really nice log comes along, and I want to have the option of getting it sawn just the way I want it. Otherwise, I'd sell it for scrap metal. With that off my chest, here's my question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blade keeps falling off, and I can't figure why. I have a 17&amp;quot; bandsaw which I've owned forever, and I'm used to adjusting it so that the blade is tight and stable. But I just can't figure out how to stop the blade on the sawmill from jumping the roller guides -- although I don't know if that's the source of the problem: I just see the blade skip the roller guides, but it could be that it fell off the wheels first. The roller guides are already adjusted as far down as I can make them. The blade is also tight, and I am spraying it with a water hose to keep it lubricated and cool. The blade jumps the roller guides with all types of logs: soft and hardwood, thin and wide, etc. The blade is new. I'm definitely not pushing on it too hard. Sometimes I can get a log or two with no problems, then the next log the blade falls halfway on every pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel like I'm missing something simple and feel stupid for even asking, but does anybody know what are the common causes for a sawmill to do this (or band saw, as the sawmill is just a horizontal bandsaw I guess)? Any suggestions appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13424" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2023-08-23T14:17:08.663" LastActivityDate="2023-08-23T15:20:08.387" Title="How to keep a portable sawmill blade from jumping the roller guides" Tags="|milling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14849" CreationDate="2023-08-23T12:28:22.380" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to assume the log moving while cutting isn't an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blade should stay on the wheels be able to make cuts without any guides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the wheels run true. Clamp an object to the frame and position a fixed point near the wheel and spin the wheel, you should not be able to perceive any wobble in the wheel as it spins. Check the inside tread where the tires bear on as well. The issue might be some compacted sawdust in there that creates a bump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the wheel tires/v-belt (parts 329v3 and 408v2 in the manual) to ensure they have an adequate crown. Hold a short straight-edge to the bearing surface and ensure there is a ridge in the middle. They might be installed inside out, check for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On page 43 and 44 of &lt;a href=&quot;https://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g0901_m.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the manual&lt;/a&gt; you will find how to adjust the wheel positions in all directions using the bolts on the back of the wheel shafts. Use a long straight-edge to validate the coplanar adjustment and make sure the tracking is correct while the blade is under tension and with the guides not touching the blade. If you intentionally put on the blade crooked (within reason) it should recenter itself within a few rotations of the wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the blade is tracking correctly then you can adjust the guides as described by the manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure to properly lock the adjustment bolts as the vibration of the motor and cutting will want to make them loosen up over time and misalign the tracking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2023-08-23T15:20:08.387" LastActivityDate="2023-08-23T15:20:08.387" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14851" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14852" CreationDate="2023-08-23T13:50:51.490" Score="2" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do woodturning in a community shop (maker space) and it turns out they have a policy against (or at least highly discourage) using green wood in the shop due to the possibility of mold growth in the dust collection system and shop vacuums.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only discovered this policy after turning a couple of bowls from a branch of maple which came down in my yard after a storm. The shop lead says I &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be able to turn green wood if I use a broom rather than a shop vac to clean up the shavings. Turning these first few green bowls was fun and the branch which came down was huge so I have a lot of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do to assuage these concerns about mold growth (aside from letting the wood dry for a couple of years)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm new to woodturning and wood shops in general so this is the first I have heard about the mold issue and my internet searches have turned up almost nothing about turning green wood and mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13274" LastActivityDate="2023-08-23T16:40:34.903" Title="Green wood (for turning) and mold risk" Tags="|dust-collection|green-wood|woodturning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14851" CreationDate="2023-08-23T16:40:34.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This just seems a little nuts to me.  Even the wettest wood that will spray you with moisture as you turn it isn't going to make that much difference in a large dust collection system.  and if it's heavily used (the dust collector) it really wouldn't be much of an issue, between the relatively low volume of material you are putting in there and how often it is emptied.  If it is 'reasonably' dry like you didn't cut it down yesterday and have kept it out of the rain for a week or so, it REALLY shouldn't make much difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now having said that, Green turning also tend to make large easy to clean up piles of shavings and very low 'dust'.  So just letting it all hit the floor and sweeping it up later also shouldn't be a big deal, as long as they have a place for you to put them after you are done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly, if they have metal ducting, I'd be more worried about very wet turning causing rust than any mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2023-08-23T16:40:34.903" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12728" CreationDate="2023-08-24T16:51:24.870" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would apply a veneer over it. That way, you can get whatever wood grain you want, and you can apply oil or varnish elsewhere, avoiding damage to other surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10865" LastActivityDate="2023-08-24T16:51:24.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11186" CreationDate="2023-08-26T08:45:42.483" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of months ago, Workshop Therapy posted an awesome Youtube showing step by step how he made his own sprung (bowed) bed slats, where he:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a) designed a template for the bow slats*&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b) made the laminated slats, using the glue template&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;c) finished the bowed slats and fitted onto the bed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/bN6Hyxsefls?si=-HMAvWKFVCTp8R5t&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/bN6Hyxsefls?si=-HMAvWKFVCTp8R5t&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*the answer to your question!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS.  I am trying to do the opposite (straighten bowed slats) which is how I came across your post. Even so, I found watching the template creation process very useful to understand how the straight wood slats became bowed in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13668" LastEditorUserId="13668" LastEditDate="2023-08-26T08:49:49.100" LastActivityDate="2023-08-26T08:49:49.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14855" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14856" CreationDate="2023-08-27T00:59:16.040" Score="2" ViewCount="126" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying get definitive information about the three dust extractor/vacuum classes (L, M, H).  I searched a couple of government agencies related to occupational safety and nothing turned up (or I got thousands of results because it logically or'd my search).  I'm looking for the actual document/specification that defines these classes (and the agency that authored it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be clear:  I'm not looking for &amp;quot;a&amp;quot; definition of these--I'm looking for &amp;quot;the official&amp;quot; definition/spec.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8805" LastActivityDate="2023-08-27T05:16:03.963" Title="Where are the dust extractor classes officially defined?" Tags="|dust-collection|sawdust|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14855" CreationDate="2023-08-27T05:16:03.963" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a bit of research it appears that the definition you are looking for is included in appendix AA of European Standard DIN EN 60335-2-69 &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.en-standard.eu/iec-60335-2-69-2021-household-and-similar-electrical-appliances-safety-part-2-69-particular-requirements-for-wet-and-dry-vacuum-cleaners-including-power-brush-for-commercial-use/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This chart, which I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.flexiheatuk.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/LR5300-Dust-Class-Summary.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; points the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, the standard itself costs about 400 US dollars, so it's difficult to confirm.  The information I've gathered indicates that the classification level (L, M, or H) is based on the allowable exposure level over a defined time period, which in turn is based on the characteristics of the dust (toxicity and particle size). &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DLm4q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DLm4q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2276" LastActivityDate="2023-08-27T05:16:03.963" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14857" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14858" CreationDate="2023-08-27T18:57:19.867" Score="1" ViewCount="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning a rain canopy down the side alley of our house. The basic design in mind is to have several vertical timbers attached to the ground and bolted to the wall. The schematic below illustrates from side-profile perspective. The canopy is corrugated panels - the blue line from joins #1 and #2. From side-view the timbers form an isosceles triangle with an angle of 40° at joint #2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is which joins would be well suited to joints #1, #2 and #3, considering the nature of forces in the structure?  Most weight will be directed through the verticals to ground, with wall screws only keeping the structure attached to the wall.  I could to be honest easily get away with bolts for this project but I'm interested in what good joinery approach would look like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TXjN8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TXjN8.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13682" LastActivityDate="2023-08-28T07:16:17.417" Title="Joints for a wall-mounted canopy" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14857" CreationDate="2023-08-28T07:16:17.417" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could to be honest easily get away with bolts for this project but I'm interested in what good joinery approach would look like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes nuts and bolts could be used for this, so it's worth keeping it in mind as a fallback. Do note the potentially difficult cuts for joint 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from just bolting this together other non-joinery options include the use of external fixing plates of some kind, such as those made by Simpson (although there are numerous other brands of such steel joint/reinforcing plates, along with plenty of generics).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are numerous joinery options, some of which come from timber-framing traditions. Ignoring the really complex joints (complete overkill for this application) and in ascending order of difficulty&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; here are some you could use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Butt joints (end-to-face, with a mitre at 2), reinforced with nails, screws or dowels/pegs, and maybe a spline added at 2.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Butt joints at 1 and 3 aligned with one edge of the uprights, reinforced with gusset plates (could be steel or plywood).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lap joints/halving joints for all three, glue-only or reinforced if desired.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Half-dovetail lap joint for 1 and 3, bridle joint&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; for 2.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With any of the alternatives used at 2, here are further options for 1 and 3:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dovetails.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mortise and tenon.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Notched joint/birdsmouth, plain, pegged or screwed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; And many would say, also in ascending order of strength. I would argue however that lap joints throughout is the simplest 'proper' joint (one offering some mechanical advantage) and &lt;em&gt;potentially of equal or even greatest strength&lt;/em&gt;, based on some comparative test results of the raw joint + a number of reinforcement options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; AKA an open mortise and tenon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-08-28T07:16:17.417" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14859" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-28T13:05:14.973" Score="0" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to make very specific blade for a wood working project, where I need to make a short of &amp;quot;pencil sharpener&amp;quot; for dowels of rosewood, and it requires I hone an edge on a piece of tool steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Naturally, no store near me sells &amp;quot;tool steel&amp;quot;, but some home supply stores sell sheets of fairly thick steel plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the difference between that and proper tool steel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I grind an edge on a piece of steel plate, and then anneal it to harden the edge, would that be sufficient for wood working, or would the alloy simply not be appropriate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13194" LastActivityDate="2023-08-30T07:34:24.053" Title="Honing a blade from sheet steel?" Tags="|sharpening|blade|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14859" CreationDate="2023-08-28T13:42:12.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main benefit of tool steel is durability of the edge. A tool steel will also be easier to sharpen to a sharper edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using mild steel you won't be able to get an edge as sharp and it won't last as long. For a small woodworking project this might be enough, but you might find that the edge needs frequent sharpening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2023-08-28T13:42:12.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14859" CreationDate="2023-08-28T17:37:15.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Naturally, no store near me sells &amp;quot;tool steel&amp;quot;, but some home supply stores sell sheets of fairly thick steel plate.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;What's the difference between that and proper tool steel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually we can't say, because there are a wealth of different types of plate, including hot-rolled and cold-rolled, higher-carbon (generically, these could all be classed as 'tool steel') or low-carbon which is mild steel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I grind an edge on a piece of steel plate, and then anneal it to harden the edge&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You misunderstand the word anneal. Annealing is a &lt;em&gt;softening&lt;/em&gt; process, not a hardening one; with hardenable alloys of steel you harden first&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; and then anneal by a given amount to soften, to produce a steel which is some balance between hard (and therefore wear-resistant, but also brittle) and more flexible (AKA 'tougher', more resistant to edge chipping or outright snapping).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming the sheet steel you can buy is mild steel it's not capable of being hardened. Mild steel can be altered to make it hardenable, but if you're asking this question you're more than likely not set up to do this&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, and besides it's not really necessary – see bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;would that be sufficient for wood working, or would the alloy simply not be appropriate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; actually make certain tools from mild steel (typically various types of scraper rather than true cutting tools) but this would be for limited use and particularly in woods softer than rosewoods, which are hard to &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; hard depending on subspecies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what you want to accomplish you do actually need to use hardened tool steel or it's not going to work well. And that's OK because most of the homemade tools/jigs  similar in form to pencil sharpeners simply make use of existing edged tools as the cutter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This includes chisels for the smaller ones, through spokeshave or block plane blades for those in the middle range and full-size plane blades for the largest sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blades can be held in place by an arrangement of screws (pinching it in around the edge), by improvising a screw locking system with one or two screws and washers (ideally machine screws if the tool is intended to have a long life), or sometimes simply by clamping the blade in place (IMO not advisable if the dowel will the spun under power).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RqU0E.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RqU0E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dowel cutters / rounders&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Which if you do it right makes the steel as hard as it can possibly get, often referred to as &amp;quot;glass hard&amp;quot; (and it's just as brittle as that name suggests).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Requires e.g. welding equipment, case-hardening compound, a kiln or furnace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-08-28T17:37:15.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14862" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-28T23:05:40.310" Score="0" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;The plates on the bottom of my electric planer are not on one level when the planer is set to zero. Is there anything I can do about this?&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7xSt7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7xSt7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user13684" LastActivityDate="2023-08-29T00:37:21.083" Title="electric planer adjustment" Tags="|planer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14859" CreationDate="2023-08-30T07:34:24.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I grind an edge on a piece of steel plate, and then anneal it to harden the edge, would that be sufficient for wood working, or would the alloy simply not be appropriate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plate steel that you're looking at is almost certainly mild steel, which has low carbon content and really won't hold an edge. There are much better choices even if you don't have access to a tool steel supplier (although it's easy to find suppliers online, e.g. McMaster-Carr). An old table saw blade would work well for a blade, as would a piece of a leaf spring from an old car or truck. If you've ever seen the TV show &lt;em&gt;Forged In Fire&lt;/em&gt;, you'll know that junk yards are full of parts that can be used to make a good blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, annealing is the process of heating the steel to its critical temperature for some time and then letting it cool slowly. It's basically the opposite of hardening -- it makes the material softer and more workable, so you might anneal the steel &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; you shape the blade. Afterward, you'd harden it by heating it to the critical temperature and then quenching it to cool it quickly and freeze the molecular structure. That leaves you with a very hard, but very brittle piece of metal, so the next step is to temper the steel: heat it to a temperature below the critical temperature, and then let it cool slowly. This trades some of the hardness for toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2023-08-30T07:34:24.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14866" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14871" CreationDate="2023-08-30T19:15:50.810" Score="1" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I am using pine wood, and I intend to plug the holes if I can find xl pocket hole plugs. I do not intend for this piece to last decades. Since this is my first outdoor furniture build, if I get 10 years out of it I will be happy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am building an outdoor dining table. I'm using primarily pocket holes to assemble, roughly 34 XL pocket holes. If I stain and seal, then drill the pocket holes, I'll be exposing wood that is unfinished. How much does that matter for pocket holes?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BfRjz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BfRjz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Extra context in case it matters:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;table will be used in the Mid Atlantic USA, in the foothills of the Blue Ridge. Weather contains all 4 seasons, it does get pretty hot and humid in the summer but only for a couple of months.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this kind of question has been asked over and over, but I'm curious to know how to decide when to finish then assemble, or assemble then finish. Specifically for outdoor furniture. Does it matter the number and size of the pocket holes? I'm guessing  other modern joinery wouldn't matter since the methods don't expose as much wood as pocket holes, but I'm unsure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8107" LastEditorUserId="8107" LastEditDate="2023-08-31T12:26:13.997" LastActivityDate="2023-09-05T22:22:18.383" Title="Should I stain/seal outdoor furniture before or after pre-drilling lots of pocket holes?" Tags="|finishing|furniture|staining|outdoor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14867" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14899" CreationDate="2023-09-04T14:40:41.173" Score="1" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my Proma HP-250/3-400 jointer-thicknesser, the following black sheet of metal is mounted parallel to the blade cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vsXr6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vsXr6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have any idea what purpose does it serve?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ya4wK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ya4wK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xSxfs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xSxfs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't seem to be listed in the schematic (which doesn't have part descriptions anyway).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i0fVN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i0fVN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5579" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2023-09-24T18:09:33.657" LastActivityDate="2023-09-25T04:02:27.087" Title="What is the purpose of a metal strip mounted parallel to jointer/thicknesser blades?" Tags="|jointer|thickness-planer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14870" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-05T01:29:42.333" Score="1" ViewCount="209" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a closet and I'm trying to find a good way to store shoes. I discovered the following product for sale online:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HgjXz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HgjXz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it's crazy expensive, something like US$35 per linear foot, and it only comes in two sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I was thinking to just make my own out of 1/2&amp;quot; plywood, which would be cheap and I could make it whatever length I want. Something like this (really bad) sketch:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/99wkO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/99wkO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shelves needn't come too far away from the wall, maybe only 3 or 4 inches for the longer one, but I still can't think of a good way to join the plywood to the wall, or even to a backing board or French cleat that I could then mount to the wall. I could use glue, nails or screws from the back into the plywood, but I'm not sure if that will hold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone suggest a good method here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4640" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2023-09-06T14:13:27.233" LastActivityDate="2023-09-06T20:37:33.337" Title="How can I securely attach plywood to a wall on the long edge?" Tags="|joinery|plywood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14866" CreationDate="2023-09-05T22:22:18.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I stain and seal, then drill the pocket holes, I'll be exposing wood that is unfinished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If bare wood being exposed by the drilling is a major concern there's a simple solution: don't do it ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the intent is to leave the holes open there is basically no reason to drill them after finish application is there? So do all the drilling, then finish and all the holes can get the same level of protection as the other surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A reason to finish first and then drill is if you &lt;em&gt;want&lt;/em&gt; the holes to be bare wood, to ensure good glue bonds for plugs, or proper bonding of any filler material. Although obviously finishing at the end also works fine here too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much does that matter for pocket holes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the typical locations of pocket holes – being hidden from view does also mean they're largely protected from weather — I'm not sure it's much of an issue really.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you'd prefer to err on the side of caution then by all means protect the holes with finish, plug them or fill them. It's so little extra effort regardless of which option is selected it's more a question of why &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; do it than why do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-09-05T22:22:18.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14872" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-06T13:47:25.340" Score="0" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wanting to make a cheap birch ply-looking worktop for myself with MDF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only issue I have is that I would also like to have the layered plywood edge rather than a traditional edge banding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The actual top face of the worktop would be relatively simple as I have seen some &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.vinylwarehouse.co.uk/90cm-birch-wood-sticky-back-vinyl-200-5475-lengths-from-1m-to-15m-7222-p.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sticky-back vinyl&lt;/a&gt; online at a reasonable cost, however I have not come across anything similar for a simulated plywood edge...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this something that actually exists? I understand that typically, edging is done to cover up the layered edge... So I might just be being awkward here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8149" LastActivityDate="2023-09-06T13:47:25.340" Title="Making MDF look like plywood with layered edges" Tags="|plywood|mdf|veneer|edge-banding|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14870" CreationDate="2023-09-06T20:37:33.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Throughout the following I'm imagining the 'ledge' piece is attached to the top edge of the back, leaving only the joint between 'shelf' and back to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the relatively low strength requirement here a glue-only butt joint might actually be sufficient for this, remembering that well-made glue joints are literally stronger than wood. With modern plywood there is unfortunately a potential doubt about how strong the surface veneer is and how well it's attached to the next ply&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The glue-only option is easily testbedded using a couple of scraps of the ply you intend to use and seeing what it takes to break it apart. However, nails or screws, or dowels, through the back into the edge of the shelf add significant reinforcement and take little to no effort so I see no reason not to do one of these. Screws would be the strongest and most secure (since each one acts like a little clamp, pulling the second piece of wood into the first), but arguably the weakest (nails/brads) aren't exactly weak if done right&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another reinforcement option is a glue 'block' underneath, running the full width of the shelf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted to overbuild the heck out of this, not for peace of mind (don't think it's necessary) but for practice, or the challenge of building it, you could house the edge of the bottom shelf into the vertical piece (option 1 &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/joinery/plywood&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;). Although the groove would most commonly be done using table saw or router these days, it could be done with handtools only if necessary. Alternatively if the back is built up from strips of thinner material the housings could be left behind in the construction; a very simple option for the TS owner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Build from solid wood on the other hand and this worry goes away, and the security of the glue joint becomes a virtual certainty. Even white pine would be perfectly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Using more of them or dovetailing for mechanical advantage; but really, both. Since brads or nails are so cheap it makes no sense to skimp on them, and the only reason not to use dovetail nailing is if you &lt;em&gt;want&lt;/em&gt; the pieces to be more easily separable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-09-06T20:37:33.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11243" CreationDate="2023-09-07T19:59:00.583" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Physicisboy. There is a bit from Yonico that can cut a height of 11/16”. You maybe able to cut your 3/4” piece and then raise up or down bit another 1/16+ to finish the cut. I’m not sure it will work. I haven’t tried it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you move it down you have a bump on the bottom you can hand plane off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tools today has one that can remove up to 23/32”. That one will get you closer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You’ll need a router table.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I know I’m late to this forum but I’m having the same problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13715" LastActivityDate="2023-09-07T19:59:00.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14876" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14877" CreationDate="2023-09-08T10:53:50.927" Score="0" ViewCount="255" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LlMMK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LlMMK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;35 year old rimu coffee table&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought an old rimu coffee table that's been sitting in a garage for the last few years. I really like how it looks so my plan is to clean it thoroughly and then apply pure tung oil for protection. It doesn't look varnished or lacquered. It feels like very smooth natural wood with a light sheen on the edges so maybe oil? It's in good enough condition that I don't want to take a sander to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question: is it ok to use pure tung oil if I don't know what the original finish was?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13716" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-09-09T05:22:49.493" LastActivityDate="2023-09-09T06:40:17.810" Title="Can I use tung oil on an old rimu coffee table if I don't know the original finish?" Tags="|finishing|restoration|tung-oil|cleaning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14876" CreationDate="2023-09-09T06:40:17.810" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is it ok to use pure tung oil if I don't know what the original finish was?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The short answer is no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; some finishes that it would be OK to apply tung oil to&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, but with commercial factory furniture it's extremely unlikely any such finish was used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So instead you're faced with some amount of remaining commercial finish, either lacquer&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; or conversion varnish. No oil should be applied to either of these, even if you wanted to use an oil for a table (which is questionable, because tables really require more protection than straight oils can provide, even tung oil).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What instead&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;There's likely to be some amount of the original finish still present in or on the wood (except in areas where it has been worn down to bare wood and there appears to be a lot of edge wear here from heavy use or excessive cleaning).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you don't want to strip back to begin again with bare wood the viable options are wax, or a harder finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wax can be used because waxes can go on top of anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finishes that dry hard can be applied to other hard finishes, as well as bare wood, and even if they don't bond to the previous finish chemically they can grip to the surface well enough for practical purposes.  They then cure hard enough that the surface isn't permanently gummy or sticky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/13069/good-methods-for-scuffing-sanding-ready-built-furniture-with-contours-for-repain/13074#13074&quot;&gt;previous Answer&lt;/a&gt; for more details on surface prep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;Basically, any straight oil or simple oil finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;Now multiple kinds, although formerly it was 100% nitrocellulose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-09-09T06:40:17.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14840" CreationDate="2023-09-11T18:07:13.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that 35mm is only a few mm off 38mm, but should I still somehow push the stop tabs back a little?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moving the &amp;quot;front&amp;quot; of the jig (where the drill bit enters the bushing) farther away from the edge of the workpiece moves the exit hole (where the bit pokes out) down, away from the face that the workpiece is clamped to. Moving the jig closer to the edge moves the hole up, closer to the face where the jig is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So... if you've got a 35 mm-thick workpiece, you can use the 1 1/2&amp;quot; (38 mm) setting for the stop with a 6 mm shim between the edge of the work and the stop to set the position of the jig. Once the jig is clamped in place, you can of course pull the shim out of the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that you may also need to adjust the stop collar on the bit slightly, not just to keep the thick part of the bit from exiting the hole, but to make sure that it leaves enough wood that the screw head won't easily pull through what's left. Ideally, the tip of the bit should &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; break the surface when the stop collar hits the bushing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you can put a 1.5 mm shim between the jig and the face of the workpiece before clamping and just use the 1 1/2&amp;quot; setting. There's no need to change the stop collar from the 1 1/2&amp;quot; setting if you use this method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me explain where I got the shim sizes. The second one is easy: the jig is set up to drill a hole such that the tip of the bit hits the &lt;em&gt;center&lt;/em&gt; of the edge of the workpiece. The difference between 35 and 38 mm is obviously 3 mm, so if you want to keep the hole in the center of the edge, you'd move the jig away from the face by half the total thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To calculate the size of a shim to use between the stop and the edge of the work, you need to know that the jig drills pocket holes at a 15° angle. If you think of a cross-section of a board with a pocket hole drilled in it, you can imagine a right triangle where the legs extend from the corner of the workpiece between the face and edge to the pocket hole, and the hypotenuse is the center axis of the hole itself. Since the angle of the hole is 15°, the ratio between the legs is tan(15°), or about 0.27. If you want to move the exit hole &amp;quot;up&amp;quot; 1.5 mm to adjust for the 3 mm difference in material thickness, you can do it by moving the jig 1.5/0.27 = 5.55 mm closer to the edge, and it's probably a little easier to just round that to 6 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2023-09-11T18:38:58.607" LastActivityDate="2023-09-11T18:38:58.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14880" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-11T18:55:51.297" Score="0" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;My plan is to rout a 1/4&amp;quot; wide channel in 3/4&amp;quot; plywood cutout, then glue it facewise to a similar 1/2&amp;quot; plywood cutout, forming an internal 1/4&amp;quot; pilot hole lengthwise that is square in cross-section. That pilot hole will then be drilled out with a long 3/8&amp;quot; bit. Material is purebond birch plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need a bit that will track the center of the square pilot, keeping the resulting hole as centered to the pilot as possible. Would also be good if it could have good chip ejection, since the hole will be quite deep, perhaps 14&amp;quot; in places; I will have many such holes to drill, so if possible it would be preferred to not have to withdraw frequently while drilling. It will be a through-hole, so a clean exit is also preferred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, my requirements are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut a 14&amp;quot; deep hole&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3/8&amp;quot; in diameter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will follow a 1/4&amp;quot; pilot hole of square-cross-section&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My preferences are, in decreasing importance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Track center of pilot hole throughout entire depth&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean exit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;good chip ejection&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brad point?&#xA;Spur?&#xA;General-purpose-twist?&#xA;Tapered?&#xA;Any other type?&#xA;Are there any other considerations that I've overlooked?&#xA;Which drill bit is best for this purpose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13728" LastEditorUserId="13728" LastEditDate="2023-09-11T21:11:56.807" LastActivityDate="2023-09-11T21:11:56.807" Title="What type of drill bit is best for following a long pilot hole in wood?" Tags="|drill-bits|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14881" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14883" CreationDate="2023-09-12T11:26:05.977" Score="0" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to bring out the grain of a wooden board as a relief with two-tone paint job, in the manner of the test piece below. (I'd roll the top color onto the real piece rather than brush it.) The board is about 45x35 cm, well-dried softwood from some furniture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bctmo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bctmo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was done with a rotating steel brush which worked ok, with patience, except that it leaves brush grooves. Sanding those down manually is pretty tiring for the fingers and only practical down to a certain width of grain stripe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could sand out the soft stripes with a multitool instead, but without a flex shaft the tool is a bit fat, using the sandpaper rolls inefficiently and destroying them too quickly by uneven wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there other ways to differentially and evenly remove the grain's two densities wood, perhaps even non-mechanically? Or hints on smoothing the valleys after wirebrushing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13730" LastEditorUserId="13730" LastEditDate="2023-09-12T16:30:47.463" LastActivityDate="2023-09-13T07:28:26.280" Title="Ways of making grain relief" Tags="|technique|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14881" CreationDate="2023-09-12T16:32:32.043" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there other ways to differentially and evenly remove the grain's two densities wood,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sandblasting is a common method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastActivityDate="2023-09-12T16:32:32.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14881" CreationDate="2023-09-13T07:28:26.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there other ways to differentially and evenly remove the grain's two densities wood, perhaps even non-mechanically?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing about sanding softwoods is that you actually have to take care not to accidentally create an uneven texture (sometimes referred to as a 'corduroy surface') because of how much softer the pale earlywood is compared to the dark latewood. This is why sanding with unbacked paper (just the fingers behind the paper, especially a single layer of paper) is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; the way to do it. But this results in a texture that's much more subtle than I think you want/need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a pronounced texture, one of the classic ways to do this on a larger scale is by sandblasting. I wanted to recommend this, but it is unfortunately probably out of reach as a technique for you since even at the rudimentary level (where you'd make your own blasting gun following online guides) it requires a decent compressor, likely out of budget for a single project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also done by wire brushing but in a way that isn't replicable at home — IIRC they use belt-fed machines with wide wire brushes, and the wire seems like it's much finer than that in a typical wire wheel available to chuck up in a drill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For one more potential method, see bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or hints on smoothing the valleys after wirebrushing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The valleys are obviously the difficult part, since it's so hard to get anything in there to smooth out the wire-brushed texture. Although sanding without a block naturally does do this to an extent I think it's likely that no amount of conventional sanding is going to do it, given how much lower the earlywood will be once it's already been worn away by wire-brushing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps the only way to do this is efficiently is by using one type of abrasive nylon brush, various types shown below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qUa4H.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qUa4H.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Nylon abrasive wheels&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given these are available in a range of grits, it opens up the possibility of doing the entire process using two or more such wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-09-13T07:28:26.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14884" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14888" CreationDate="2023-09-14T00:16:56.237" Score="2" ViewCount="328" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 3M Cubitron 775L is sold in two varieties - with and without holes. The size, price, and grain being the same, why would anybody want a hole-less sanding disc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These discs are specifically designed for random orbit sanders and not rotary tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An ode to the spiral-shaped hole pattern can be found in the description of both products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sywAW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sywAW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9gcrq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9gcrq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5579" LastActivityDate="2023-09-18T06:14:09.150" Title="Why are there hole-less as well as holed sanding discs?" Tags="|sanding|random-orbit-sander|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14885" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-16T17:13:36.023" Score="-2" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;Due to city code, I cut down this massive tree, which was used for a tire swing. I happen to need a coffee table so I want to select a round to turn into a resinated coffee table. But I am worried I will pick the wrong piece! A lot of pieces have mold, some pieces have holes from bugs, and some pieces may have some locked-in moisture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you give me a guide to selecting the perfect round? I want to get the biggest one possible. Also, I hope to know how thin to cut it. I want to use it as a tabletop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, there are only 3 things to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it properly dried (are there moisture pockets)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any rot or soft spots? Any undesirable splits?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there bugs, and if so can you kill them?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of plaining, I was thinking to make the table about 4 inches thick, but I don't have a milling machine. Maybe I could just use a chainsaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About the wood: the tree was cut down two years ago and the rounds were cut out last year; so, the rounds dried in the elements for a year. They did sit in the snow, but due to the way they were positioned, the selected rounds had no notable rot. Over the past 3 months, two specific pieces were covered with a tarp and left in the garage. So, my thought was to thin-slice several pieces and then do additional drying (like with a desiccant in a sealed container) and see which slice looked best after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dpjXb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dpjXb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;pictures of the rounds&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13740" LastEditorUserId="13740" LastEditDate="2023-10-06T16:57:21.723" LastActivityDate="2023-10-06T17:24:06.250" Title="Know if a round is right for tablemaking?" Tags="|tabletop|table-making|live-edge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14885" CreationDate="2023-09-17T18:28:59.803" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you give me a guide to selecting the perfect round?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simple answer is no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is separate to what you consider to be perfect not being specified in the Question. If we just make certain assumptions that amount to: hoping to select a round that's as flawless as possible &lt;em&gt;there's no way of knowing in advance which pieces will end up that way&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The current condition of any given slice from the trunk of a tree is &lt;strong&gt;zero&lt;/strong&gt; predictor of how they'll end up after drying is complete&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. And even after something is considered well seasoned cracks can still sometimes show up later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you'll see if you look around online, just the initial drying of rounds or 'cookies' is fraught with difficulties and getting consistently good results is at least as much about luck as about careful planning and execution. Yields of usable rounds can be as low as 10%, even in the hands of someone with lots of experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in short, you can do everything right and the round you selected to use will still crack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; And this is irrespective of the species, the current moisture content of the wood, how long they've been sitting there on the ground drying the wrong way (hence the many existing drying cracks), the future drying conditions, the health of the tree when alive and various other unknowns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-09-17T18:28:59.803" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14884" CreationDate="2023-09-18T06:14:09.150" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many (most?) abrasive discs are sold in both unperforated and holed versions, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mafergasa.com/pdf/lixas-dronco.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt; (PDF), &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.biltema.dk/en-dk/tools/sanding/sandpaper/sanding-disc-125-mm-8-holes-25-pack-2000051631&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2a&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.biltema.no/en-no/tools/sanding/sandpaper/sanding-disc-125-mm-unholed-5-pack-2000051629&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2b&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The holes are obviously for dust extraction, but not everything these can be fitted to actually has any dust extraction (including the pads sold for &lt;a href=&quot;https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/1f97a9e8-e672-433a-a094-e27bd0e2ad0a.85867121bef5e24f59b498c83a6a55fd.jpeg?odnHeight=768&amp;amp;odnWidth=768&amp;amp;odnBg=FFFFFF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;chucking up in drills&lt;/a&gt; and for &lt;a href=&quot;https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/shopping?q=tbn:ANd9GcRugyP4CzBq2tf4aoJO7ZDpiy_jPGXlE_fBqC0EEpk7W-H3NMCItrXiZgmIFZanNjahsamKLvaPbGoD58ETfQWISxybw-OSQzNGZBugkBN6pkdAIEBZk4cr&amp;amp;usqp=CAE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mounting to angle grinders&lt;/a&gt;) so it makes sense for those to use unperforated discs. In addition to the holes serving no purpose for any application that doesn't have through-the-pad dust extraction, in straight orbital sanding there's more potential for any edge of the sandpaper to catch and tear, especially when working on or near edges and corners of hard materials such as metals and stone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; Cubitron II is unusual in that there are actually &lt;em&gt;three&lt;/em&gt; disk types you can buy, the third being Xtract which is mesh based.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qsh5L.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qsh5L.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cubitron II Xtract&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-09-18T06:14:09.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14889" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-18T09:21:28.577" Score="1" ViewCount="60" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a wooden stool. One of the legs has a stripped screw thread. I want to replace it with another screw, but I'm not sure how to remove the original one.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kTcTC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kTcTC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;stripped screw thread&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13747" LastActivityDate="2023-09-18T09:21:28.577" Title="How to remove a stripped screw thread from a wooden stool leg" Tags="|screws|legs|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5619" CreationDate="2023-09-19T13:08:42.537" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sawdust and boiled linseed oil mixed into a paste is the way to go for this if you really want to fill them( as others have said you don't have to ). It takes a while to cure, but it stays flexible for a long time and is easy to repair/sand/etc. Best paired with an hard oil finish like osmo, rubio, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never tried to poly over it, I imagine it should work once the linseed oil and sawdust putty is fully cured, but I would be concerned about the flex of the paste vs the stiffness of the polyurethane on top causing flaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13755" LastActivityDate="2023-09-19T13:08:42.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14893" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-19T13:26:41.813" Score="2" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have an old armoire that I'm refurbishing and have come across these... how do I remove these?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Blezs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Blezs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;drawer plugs&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13756" LastActivityDate="2023-09-19T13:26:41.813" Title="What are they and how do I remove them?" Tags="|furniture|wood-repair|surface-preparation|painting|antique|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2023-09-27T13:28:08.593" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14898" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-24T13:07:22.570" Score="2" ViewCount="217" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I repair a spindle on a French Country chair, only the top half of the spindle is broken. I don't want to take the chair apart if I can avoid it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qAi1V.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qAi1V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13775" LastEditorUserId="1308" LastEditDate="2023-09-26T23:39:42.867" LastActivityDate="2023-09-26T23:39:42.867" Title="How to repair a broken spindle in a French Country dining chair" Tags="|furniture|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14867" CreationDate="2023-09-25T04:02:27.087" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on location and how it's angled, this appears to be a deflector for chips. Why it's not a numbered part in the parts diagram is a mystery!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-09-25T04:02:27.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14898" CreationDate="2023-09-25T13:32:23.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clearly, the right way to fix this is to take much of the back apart and replace the broken bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a slightly hack-y suggestion, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flush cut the spindle at the bottom. (Or rough cut and trim flush with a chisel.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Loosen the glue holding the spindle at the lower crosspiece. This might be a combination of strategic dampening and/or hairdryer heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Twist the spindle out and remove it if possible. (This will make the next step less cumbersome.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drill out the remains of the old spindle from the top hoop. Be as accurate as possible, both in terms of size and centering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cut the top of the spindle square and chamfer the edge slightly for easier insertion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibly ream out the lower crosspiece a tiny bit to make re-insertion a little easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dry fit and mark where the spindle emerges from the bottom of the lower crosspiece. Cut the spindle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reassemble with a bit of glue and dab some paint where the spindle met the seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2023-09-25T13:32:23.217" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14898" CreationDate="2023-09-26T14:37:02.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like @Aloysius-Defenestrate 's answer, but suggest that it be taken one more step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start by loosening the dowel by twisting it, if possible, and removing it in its entirety.  If it cannot be twisted loose then cut it flush top and bottom at the middle crosspiece and the lower one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill out the remaining dowel pieces from the middle and lower crosspieces. The lower one should be drilled deep enough to accommodate moving the new dowel further down than its final position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut a replacement dowel long enough to extend both into the bottom and top crosspieces adequately to be glued into place.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slide it down through the center crosspiece down into the over deep bottom hole and then back up into the top crosspiece hole.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will have to decide when to place the glue to the dowel depending upon how difficult placing the dowel.  IF it can be fit and at least partially removed before gluing then due so, otherwise, take the risk and glue it during the initial fitting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, as I wrote this, it occurred to me that the dowel does not have to take much stress for the chairback, and it might be possible to keep the bottom portion of the dowel as is and perform this operation for the top section only.  You would still have to drill the centerpiece dowel out long enough to accommodate inserting the new dowel as above.  Since the strength of the chairback is only affected a little, the chair should still support normal use well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2023-09-26T14:37:02.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14905" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-29T18:12:46.037" Score="0" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a slice out of our Oak that has split. The power company had to take down because of interference with power lines. I have it since 2014 and would like to make it into a table. Is there any hope for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13787" LastActivityDate="2023-10-02T02:35:52.917" Title="Any way to repair a cookie from an Oak tree that has cracked open?" Tags="|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14906" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-30T00:21:49.507" Score="2" ViewCount="1235" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built a cabinet from big-box plywood. I used 1/2&amp;quot; for tops and bottoms and 3/4&amp;quot; for the sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This 16&amp;quot;dx22&amp;quot;hx30&amp;quot;w deep cabinet will be inset into the wall and fastened to the studs (so the back 12.5&amp;quot; will be hanging with no support). It will then be trimmed and painted so if a joint ever fails, it will be a big problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used 1 1/4&amp;quot; screws, with pre-drilling and countersinking. But, TBH, it didn't feel like there was enough grab. Did I use screws that were too short?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lqJto.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lqJto.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or did I pre-drill it with too big a bit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eGazY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eGazY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5067" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-10-03T08:24:47.990" LastActivityDate="2023-11-14T19:53:58.607" Title="1/2&quot; and 3/4&quot; plywood cabinet - query about length of screws" Tags="|plywood|screws|cabinetry|drill-bits|fasteners|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14907" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14908" CreationDate="2023-09-30T02:04:24.583" Score="2" ViewCount="63" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m very new to woodworking - I’ve installed a floor and done baseboards, and was thinking for my next project I could build a Little Free Library to improve my skills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the &lt;a href=&quot;https://littlefreelibrary.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Modern-Two-Story-Library-Designs_Little-Free-Libraries-and-Tiny-Sheds_Quarto_Philip-Schmidt.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;example plans&lt;/a&gt; on the Little Free Library website, list a few kinds of trim in the materials that I’ve been unable to find at Home Depot:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;9/16 x 9/16 x 15” pine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1/2 x 1 x 96” pine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1/2 x 1 1/2 x 96” pine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3/8 x 3/8 x 72” pine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As this is a beginner book I assumed all the materials would be readily available, but these don’t seem like standard sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I buy larger pieces of trim / dimensional lumber and cut them down to the sizes above instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13789" LastActivityDate="2023-09-30T06:34:45.517" Title="Not finding trim to match plans" Tags="|lumber|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14907" CreationDate="2023-09-30T06:34:45.517" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I buy larger pieces of trim / dimensional lumber and cut them down to the sizes above instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These would be assumed to be sawn by the user. Any time you see something in a cut list or plan that isn't a nominal size of dimensional lumber it has to be sawn from larger stock — sometimes substantially larger, since you might want to e.g. start with Doug fir 2x6s, and not just the closest size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if for example you wanted to build something from southern yellow pine specifically you might start with 2x8s and up, as SYP is commonly the species found in much wider boards (although there'll be some regional variation here).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-09-30T06:34:45.517" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14909" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-30T21:41:40.307" Score="3" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the design phase for some kitchen (wall) cabinets, to replace the nasty ones that came with my house. I want to go all the way up to the ceiling, so the doors will be 48 inches high. The way I have it drawn up, I'll have one door that's 23w 48h, and two more 25w 48h.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything special I have to do when building doors this size?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I built my lower cabinet doors with 2.5&amp;quot; rails and stiles, and 1/4&amp;quot; plywood center panels glued into those. I'm wondering if I should use wider stock for the rails and/or stiles, or whether I should add a third rail in the center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12348" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-10-01T05:30:44.393" LastActivityDate="2023-10-03T18:15:03.317" Title="Any special considerations for big cabinet doors?" Tags="|cabinetry|door|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14910" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-01T09:41:35.200" Score="6" ViewCount="2521" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought the oak dowels supplied as 25mm x 300mm to fix through three oak sleepers total height 300mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then bought a 25mm auger bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I just checked the dowels with a calibrated digital caliper, the diameter came up as 25.4mm.&#xA;Is that normal? Would I be able to hammer them in a 25mm diameter hole?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13794" LastEditorUserId="5522" LastEditDate="2023-10-03T00:23:49.560" LastActivityDate="2023-10-03T00:23:49.560" Title="Can I hammer 25.4mm x 300mm oak dowels into a 25mm hole?" Tags="|joinery|drilling|oak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14910" CreationDate="2023-10-01T11:02:44.090" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a small scale wood is highly compressible, so the basic answer here is yes. As a joke goes, you might just need a bigger hammer ^_^&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes it's quite normal for shop-bought dowel to measure slightly off its nominal size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact it might be accurate to say that dowel is &lt;em&gt;rarely&lt;/em&gt; the stated diameter. It can be larger or smaller. Occasionally you'll even see dowel for sale that has already gone slightly ovoid — so, over dimension in one axis, and under dimension at right angles to this. Although this generally takes some time to happen (more than a few seasons) stock turnaround might be low enough that you'll see it on 'new' material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would I be able to hammer them in a 25mm diameter hole?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic answer is yes as stated at the outset. However, a further surprise might be in wait for you when you check the auger. Even drill bits are frequently not &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; the size stated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the auger does happen to measure as exactly 25mm, do note that &lt;em&gt;drilled holes are always larger than the bit that made them&lt;/em&gt;. This is true even in hard materials like steel (!) and even when made in a very rigid setup like on a drill press/bench drill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, assuming your bit did happen to be exactly 25mm, the thing you think you're facing — hammering in a dowel to an undersize hole — won't actually be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of the exact fit, you do need to drive the dowel very deeply here, much deeper than would be commonly needed. And if the fit is tight the friction will get higher and higher the deeper you pound the dowel in. It is possible that you will even get to the point that you won't be able to drive the dowel in any further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Glue?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If you intend to glue, note that some glues increase friction and others do not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Foaming poly and epoxy are highly lubricative and don't produce 'grab'. They're also reliably 100% waterproof, which argues in their favour anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PVA on the other hand can &lt;em&gt;massively&lt;/em&gt; increase the friction, due in part to its high water content, and as a result could easily result in the dowel becoming impossible to insert further once in a certain depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No glue&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If the plan is not to use glue, you can increase your chances of success by lubricating the dowel. You can do this with wax or oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-10-01T11:02:44.090" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14905" CreationDate="2023-10-02T02:35:52.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, short version: epoxy the crack (thanks, @Graphus), or cut it at the crack, joint the edges, glue it together, and clean up the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted to come back with pictures and answers to the questions in the comments, you’d get more information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2023-10-02T02:35:52.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14909" CreationDate="2023-10-02T14:26:53.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I was building this, my major concern would be maintaining flatness in the doors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To that end, a few things to pay attention to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stock choice: dry, even grain, free of defects, straight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;additional rail: can help with stability, so (personally) I’d do it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;joinery: you didn’t specify, but the more substantial (dowels, m+t) the better&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;panel: I wouldn’t glue it; rather capture it in a groove and use something like spaceballs or caulk to keep it from rattling (edit: see comments for a compelling argument to gluing the panel and thus stiffening up the entire door)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hinges: at least 3 and maybe 4 if the weight calculation suggests it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rail/stile dimensions: 2.5” (assuming 3/4 thick) would be fine, though you might consider embiggening the bottom rail by an inch or two for additional sturdiness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastEditorUserId="503" LastEditDate="2023-10-03T18:15:03.317" LastActivityDate="2023-10-03T18:15:03.317" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14914" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-02T21:01:19.563" Score="2" ViewCount="124" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to build an outdoor coffee table that can easily convert to a dining table. This table will be under cover and I plan to build it from C24 treated pine. I am a relatively new woodworker and I have made a plan on Sketchup, roughly using this design as inspiration (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/diy-desk-adjustable/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/diy-desk-adjustable/&lt;/a&gt;), but using 2x6s instead of 2x4s as the legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to use four removable 25 mm dowel pins to secure the table in the coffee or dining table positions. There is 16 cm insertion of the legs when in dining table mode. Finally, I am going to use two 200N 550mm gas springs (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0B7SJJKP8/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?smid=AG2W5Z7O03ZBI&amp;amp;th=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0B7SJJKP8/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?smid=AG2W5Z7O03ZBI&amp;amp;th=1&lt;/a&gt;) inside the table legs to help raise and lower the table. I calculated that the table top and legs should weigh about 42kg, so these springs should be strong enough. I will attach them top and bottom with 150mm carriage bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The table will be 51 cm in coffee mode (a little high, I know) and 76 cm in dining mode. The tabletop is 75 X 150cm. The tabletop will be five 150cm pieces of 2x6. There will be 5mm gaps between them and they will be attached to the cross braces by 70mm decking screws inserted from underneath. These will not be glued.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The table will be made primarily of 2x6s, with the feet made from screwed and glued 2x2s (with a gap to allow legs to insert into base in coffee mode, and the leg boxes will be 10x6s and 2x2s. I will mostly use 70mm decking screws with pocket holes and glue.&#xA;Note from the image the brace is split in the middle, but this is just so I could show the two modes. It will be a solid 2x6 brace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think this is going to wobble too much, and any recommendations for making this stronger? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6MzKJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6MzKJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XQg0a.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XQg0a.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13798" LastEditorUserId="13798" LastEditDate="2023-10-02T22:35:22.347" LastActivityDate="2023-10-22T20:07:29.000" Title="Extendable outdoor coffee/dining table. Will it be strong enough?" Tags="|furniture|design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14906" CreationDate="2023-10-03T08:41:56.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did I use screws that were too short?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd personally be a little concerned they were a tad short, mainly if they were the sole means of fixing (but also in a different context&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;). As I mentioned in the Comments, if you glued as well as screwed then the glue will of course be doing a lot to hold this cabinet together, and in an ideal world could be used by itself with no brads, nails or screws to help lock everything together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;did I pre-drill it with too big a bit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorta. But if the combination bit was adjusted exactly as seen in relation to the screw, no I don't think so. You certainly would not want to drill a full-length pilot hole with a bit of that size&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; however!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; a proper combination bit for pre-drilling in a single operation should either have a longer, &lt;em&gt;tapered&lt;/em&gt; bit in its centre, or be stepped, so that it drills two distinct holes sizes — for the clearance and pilot portions of the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Given this is not a freestanding cabinet and will be built into the wall though, I think you have zero to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Remember there are two or three components to pre-drilled holes, the countersink/counterbore on top (IF present), the &lt;em&gt;clearance hole&lt;/em&gt; that the screw should not engage with (assuming the threads extend up that far), and the &lt;em&gt;pilot hole&lt;/em&gt;. The pilot hole should be approximately the core diameter of the screw used, no larger, and in softer wood and plywood (also MDF and chipboard) you can get away with under-drilling the pilot to maximise hold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-10-03T08:41:56.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14917" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14920" CreationDate="2023-10-03T17:27:38.323" Score="1" ViewCount="176" Body="&lt;p&gt;Taking into account that &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/q/573/13805&quot;&gt;different &amp;quot;Tung Oil&amp;quot; products take from a few hours to eternity to cure&lt;/a&gt;. Some say it &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/6107/13805&quot;&gt;never cures&lt;/a&gt;… Given the fact that &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/q/884/13805&quot;&gt;curing is not drying&lt;/a&gt;… Being aware that &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/574/13805&quot;&gt;some &amp;quot;Tung Oil&amp;quot; products don't even have Tung Oil in them&lt;/a&gt;…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What &lt;strong&gt;practical indicators&lt;/strong&gt; can I rely on to determine when my surface is ready for the next coat? Should I await it to &lt;em&gt;dry&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;cure&lt;/em&gt;? Are there any straightforward tests, such as pushing the wood with a nail and observing if excess oil seeps out, that I can employ to gauge its readiness?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm asking because with my &amp;quot;Pure Tung Oil&amp;quot; even after following the instructions on the can, after 24 (in fact, even after 48+ hours) it is still oily and I am kind of unsure if I should really wait longer (or maybe help it dry with a fan) between the coats, or I am good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13805" LastActivityDate="2023-10-04T07:12:02.200" Title="Practical indicators that my surface is ready for another coat of Tung Oil" Tags="|finishing|tung-oil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14918" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14919" CreationDate="2023-10-03T20:29:24.230" Score="2" ViewCount="1168" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a novice woodworker doing some basic projects. I recently acquired a drill press and a set of hole saws with hexagonal shanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hole saws have a disturbing tendency to come loose from the drill press as I'm using them. I think the root of my problem is that my drill press has a 4-jaw chuck and so a secure grip on the hex shanks is not possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a recommended technique for adapting hex shanks to a 4-jaw chuck? Some device I should buy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13806" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-10-04T07:15:17.160" LastActivityDate="2023-10-04T19:05:29.530" Title="Adapting a 4-jaw drill chuck to hex shanks?" Tags="|drill-bits|drill|hole-saw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14918" CreationDate="2023-10-03T23:10:52.323" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drill presses usually have a standardized chuck connector, such as Morse Taper  (MT) or Jacobs Taper (JT). These are followed by a number to denote the size (MT2, JT3, etc.). You can take your existing chuck out of the drill press (typically using a small wedge driven into a slot above the chuck), verify the correct taper and purchase a replacement chuck with 3 jaws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2023-10-03T23:10:52.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14917" CreationDate="2023-10-04T07:12:02.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used mainly BLO as a wood-finishing oil but I've also compared various other slower-drying oils periodically, basically to see how they stacked up to BLO. And in all cases, there was no absolute indicator that the surface was 'ready' for the next coat — to be perfectly honest often the surface looks and feels no different to when the preceding coat was first applied!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What practical indicators can I rely on to determine when my surface is ready for the next coat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So as per the above, and sorry, but there may not really be anything concrete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because &lt;em&gt;no&lt;/em&gt; pure oil actually cures in the interval between coats, what we're waiting for is enough time for the oil already applied to be absorbed more fully, and for the stuff nearest the surface to have &lt;em&gt;cured enough&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. This difference to the just-finished surface can be subtle enough that it's really only noticeable when you start oiling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But despite some variability the surface should absolutely not feel greasy. Slick perhaps (usually not after only one coat) but not oily, much less transfer any oil to the skin......&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;after 24 (in fact, even after 48+ hours) it is still oily&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From this and what you subsequently said in the Comments it is clear that your application procedure wasn't fully correct in the final stage, the wiping off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I expected, the application guidelines &lt;a href=&quot;https://bormawachs.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Borma Wachs&lt;/a&gt; provide for their tung oil don't &lt;em&gt;strongly&lt;/em&gt; emphasise how rigorously users should remove excess oil the way they should..... as unfortunately most (almost all?) guidelines don't!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But with ANY oil you must remove ALL excess&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. This requires dedicated, hard rubbing, and depending on species possibly a return to the wood over the next 12 hours or so to wipe away any excess that has weeped back onto the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Which is not to say cured, as this takes weeks to months depending on variables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; All natural oils, even the best driers, cure to at best a semi-solid. What this means practically in a finishing context is that if you leave any on the surface (as distinct from absorbed into the surface) you will have a thin layer of that semi-solid on the wood after curing has progressed far enough. This will feel &amp;quot;draggy&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;gummy&amp;quot;, or be noticeably sticky, very much not what we're going for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-10-04T07:12:02.200" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14918" CreationDate="2023-10-04T19:05:29.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned, the best option is to replace the chuck.  Having different types of chuck is useful regardless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that is undesirable for some reason, you could try getting a hex-drive extension.  Those generally have round exteriors that will secure in your four-jaw chuck just fine.  You may have to cut the hex shaft off of it to fit depending on the extension and the size of your chuck.  This will be a little looser than using the proper chuck.  Also you probably want to get one of the extensions that has a locking mechanism and not just a magnet, otherwise retracting the hole saw might get a little awkward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your hex shafts are not one of the standard sizes, then a socket will often work, either by itself or with a socket extension.  But now you're getting really wobbly...  Might be best to glue the joints together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be really careful with any cobbled-together solutions as a small amount of instability can lead to rapid, unplanned disassembly when rotating at the high speeds generally used for woodworking.  Hole-saws shouldn't be too big an issue since they're normally used at lower RPM, but be sure to keep your fingers well back and your face out of the danger plane regardless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1285" LastActivityDate="2023-10-04T19:05:29.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14885" CreationDate="2023-10-06T17:24:06.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Find a local commercial saw mill that has a kiln and see what they'd charge you to kiln dry a few of your cookies. I wouldn't think they'd charge significantly more for more than one cookie, but I might be wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will speed up the drying process, especially since you want a 4&amp;quot; thick table, and it's the best way to kill any critters living in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drying several gives you options when they're done, based on what happened to them during drying. Use any defects (cracks, soft spots, etc.) as design features in the final table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they all turn out to be usable to some extent, sell the others (as is or as finished tables) to offset the cost of drying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2023-10-06T17:24:06.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14923" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-09T18:17:47.623" Score="0" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have all my deck boards screwed down to the joists. Some ends stick up 1/8 inch or more from the others. There are many areas like this. How do I fix this? Sander or planer? It would have to be some sort of an angle from the low board graduating to the top of the high board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BMEcp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BMEcp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;uneven deck boards&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13830" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-10-11T06:24:12.073" LastActivityDate="2023-10-13T14:08:17.377" Title="Uneven Deck Boards" Tags="|sanding|hand-planing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14924" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-10T18:01:15.160" Score="-2" ViewCount="346" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to cut wooden planks with a 45° to joint them together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this end I have made this jig for my handsaw.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZBESM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZBESM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the angles measured are perfect. I cut very slowly to avoid to much play from saw. The piece of wood is fixated with clamps and doesn't move during the cut&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It just doesn't work&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6hQKq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6hQKq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also remade the whole thing. Put some magnets into the jig to make the saw cuts even more exact. Tried different pieces of wood. When using the jig for 90° degree cuts everything works perfect and i get dead square right angles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user13684" LastActivityDate="2023-10-10T18:06:59.883" Title="Cutting perfect 45° by hand" Tags="|hand-tools|hand-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14924" CreationDate="2023-10-10T18:06:59.883" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The suggested general approach for handtools is not to expect perfection with the first step. For the specific need of a 45 degree angle you'd want a shooting board for a hand plane in a similar vein to your current jig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative to cutting accurate 45 degree angles when you want to have the finished joint at a 90 degrees is to make sure that the cut pieces result in a 90 degree angle but not worry about each of them individually being 45 degrees. So if you jig consistently produces a 43 degree angle, cut one piece that way and the other piece rotated 90 degree to have a complementing 47 degree angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2023-10-10T18:06:59.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14923" CreationDate="2023-10-10T19:38:48.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First the disclaimer, wood moves expands and contracts and twists etc.  So even getting it flat it is quite likely to become 'unflat' again after some time (at least in places).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, renting a (hardwood) floor sander would make short work of this and the bonus of not needing to crawl around on your hands and knees.  You'd probably only need 36 and 60 grit to do the whole job.  I had around 400 sq. ft. of hardwood flooring and it took me just a few hours (5-6?), a deck of similar size I would expect to take less than half as long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2023-10-10T19:38:48.177" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14927" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-11T22:43:53.777" Score="0" ViewCount="196" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had my wooden floors refinished and the contractor did three coats of oil based varnish. It's been 6 months and there is still a strong smell. How do I get it to go away? It's giving me a headache and making me nauseous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for replying. I have tried snake plants, bowls of vinegar, running air purifiers, getting bags of activated charcoal put around the room, leaving windows open during the day. I heard sliced onions can help. I will probably try it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13840" LastEditorUserId="13840" LastEditDate="2023-10-12T19:54:28.550" LastActivityDate="2023-10-12T19:54:28.550" Title="Bad smell from varnish" Tags="|wood|varnish|toxicity|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14928" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14929" CreationDate="2023-10-12T01:10:21.333" Score="0" ViewCount="156" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a UV-finished butcher block countertop that has several dents in it. As I know, it is simple to remove dents on unfinished surface using iron on wet wood, but UV-finish makes it complicated (if even possible), as water wouldn't penetrate into the wood. So, my main question is whether it is possible to remove dents on the UV-finished wooden surface, and how to do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side question I would ask whether that is reasonable to do. This is a new countertop that I bought at Home Depot. Actually that is a third one, as the other two had dents and even were cracked, so HD replaced them (I have had two replacements already). I could continue this serie of replacements, but the countertops are packed so badly that I'm loosing hope to get the one undamaged. If I would get an idea how to fix the dents by myself, I would prefer to get a discount and make a fix by myself; if it is overly difficult, I would proceed with the replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. In case the details are needed, the wood is saman, the countertop is an island one (6 ft x 39 inches).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; here is a link to the HD product: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-Bay-6-ft-L-x-39-in-D-Finished-Saman-Solid-Wood-Butcher-Block-Island-Countertop-With-Live-Edge-saman-6ft/319222221&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-Bay-6-ft-L-x-39-in-D-Finished-Saman-Solid-Wood-Butcher-Block-Island-Countertop-With-Live-Edge-saman-6ft/319222221&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7965" LastEditorUserId="7965" LastEditDate="2023-10-13T13:09:34.480" LastActivityDate="2023-10-15T16:23:55.503" Title="Removing dents from UV-finished wooden countertop" Tags="|finishing|epoxy|butcher-block|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14928" CreationDate="2023-10-12T07:14:37.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally it's not possible to remove dents from wood with any sort of decent finish on it, if the finish is in A, good condition and B, applied at any sort of thickness. This is irrespective of whether the dents are minor or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;UV-finished&amp;quot; doesn't mean anything concrete, as this could be used to describe four or more different finish &lt;em&gt;types&lt;/em&gt; that just have UV inhibitors added. Although commercially this list is likely to be only two, there are still multiple sub-types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in all cases the main thing is, is it a film finish applied fully — is there a thin layer of something hard and clear that visibly coats the wood, creating a smooth artificial surface? If so, then there's no reasonable way to remove dents by the usual means of steaming them out, because as you say water can't get through to the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And anyway, even IF effective&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; steaming isn't the only step in the process, and there are further issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;steam penetration can (frequently does) cause localised staining;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the heat required can damage or undermine any finish present;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;some evening out or further smoothing of the wood surface is &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; needed if you want a repair that could reasonably be called invisible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side question I would ask whether that is reasonable to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions should focus on just one aspect of a problem, and anyway this is highly subjective (which doesn't make for &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/help/dont-ask&quot;&gt;a good SE Question&lt;/a&gt;), but I'll tackle it briefly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issues listed above don't at all mean one couldn't work with what you have. But, even in the best of cases (bare wood) it requires &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; more than just steaming every dent and then you're done; and of course here you'd need to remove the finish and then refinish at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me this doesn't seem reasonable unless you're getting a huge discount on the counter&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Do note it is rarely 100% effective across multiple dents across a large surface due to variability in the wood, variations in dent cause or type, and of course their depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Assuming they were willing to heavily discount the countertop, you still need to ask yourself: is it worth your time, can you deal with the effort and mess (and potentially the smell/VOCs), do you have the skills and experience going in to ensure a good result, and last but by no means least can you then wait a long time before the counter can be used unrestricted? I think it only requires the answer to just one of these to be &amp;quot;Nope.&amp;quot; for this not to be viable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-10-12T07:14:37.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14930" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14933" CreationDate="2023-10-12T20:33:12.327" Score="-1" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm willing to give a $200 reward on this, if it's not against StackExchange policy. I know this is Woodworking but I'm hoping leads me in the right direction with folks who like creating/working with with their hands who might have the missing piece of knowledge I seek.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a telescopic extension arm that was repurposed for a painter's easel. The artist in question who built this easel lives in Australia, so it's possible it's some kind of vintage part specific to the region, but not necessarily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm building my own easel, and while it diverges in a lot of ways, I want this exact telescopic arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's critical I emphasize this... I want the exact part, and I don't want to discuss &amp;quot;why does it have to be exact when any old one will do?&amp;quot; Every time I ask on a forum or somewhere, 80% of the time is spent looking over suggestions that are nothing even remotely close, as well as having to explain why I don't want a similar part. I'd like to avoid all that noise, and focus on ideas of its exact origin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have spent hours upon hours scouring Google Images, TinEye, ChatGPT4-V, forums, etc. I KNOW it is out there somewhere, I just need to encounter the right person who knows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can ask the artist, but I don't want to bother him just yet unless its my absolute last resort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most unique aspect of it that I notice is that a cross-section of the arm is square/rectangle. Almost every telescopic arm I can find is either round or flat, so I'm hoping that helps narrow it down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main things i've been looking at are window stays, camper window telescopic arms, drafting table support arms, etc etc. It's possible it's still something I searched, but just didn't look at vintage product model X, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The artist likes to repurpose things, so I'm assuming it's a vintage part. Another user in &amp;quot;Home Improvement&amp;quot; commented that it might be custom made though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a few images of it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VOhD9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VOhD9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AU7Vb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AU7Vb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L6zVR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L6zVR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nFz80.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nFz80.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kw4aL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kw4aL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13843" LastActivityDate="2023-10-13T08:53:38.437" Title="What is this part?" Tags="|design|tool-identification|hardware-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14931" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-12T23:25:18.120" Score="0" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;A thicknesser works by rotating a drum with knives to remove material from a board with one flat edge. The board is fed against the drum by a conveyor belt or by an infeed roller as shown in this image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cZXHM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cZXHM.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there something stopping me from removing the knives, wrapping the drum in sandpaper and using this machine as a drum sander?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The obvious thing that comes to mind is the &lt;em&gt;speed at which the drum rotates&lt;/em&gt;. For instance, my thicknesser has a fixed speed of &lt;strong&gt;4000 rpm&lt;/strong&gt;, which is too high for a drum sander with the same drum diameter (shouldn't be above &lt;strong&gt;2000 rpm&lt;/strong&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything else? I guess there must be a fundamental hindrance somewhere in the idea, otherwise, we would see many sander-thicknessers on the market. Lamentably, there are no such machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5579" LastActivityDate="2023-10-12T23:25:18.120" Title="Can a jointer or a thicknesser be used as a drum sander?" Tags="|sanding|thickness-planer|sander|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14932" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-12T16:53:05.893" Score="0" ViewCount="325" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have old oak cabinets in the kitchen and looking to make some upgrades. Doors are lipped/rabbeted and partial overlay. Cabinets are face frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m struggling to find options for soft close hidden hinges that aren’t $20/hinge (Rockler makes the Salice only ones I’ve found so far, but they are also only 110deg). Regular soft close hinges for partial overlay or inset won’t work because of the rabbet interfering with opening and closing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve looked into maybe trying some 170 degree soft close frameless hinges from Blummotion and putting blocking in, but not sure if that will work (may order a pair to try). Has anybody done/seen this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose another option is to build out the cabinet doors with strips around the edge to fill in the rabbet but that is a lot of work. Or just get all new cabinet doors, but I hate wasting all that wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Images of cabinets: &lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/a/MjlKKKe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://imgur.com/a/MjlKKKe&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="TusseyMtn" LastActivityDate="2023-10-13T03:12:40.583" Title="Soft Close Hidden Hinges for Lipped (Rabbeted) Cabinet Doors?" Tags="|hinges|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14930" CreationDate="2023-10-13T08:53:38.437" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well that didn't take very long, I emailed the artist and he responded..... in three minutes!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is this part?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They were &lt;strong&gt;homemade from curtain rails&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know you specifically didn't want anything except the exact part but he suggests caravan spare parts shops for an easier alternative — window stays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-10-13T08:53:38.437" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14928" CreationDate="2023-10-13T13:15:28.657" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &amp;quot;Use and Care manual&amp;quot; link at the HD site, it says,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you plan to cut or need to refinish your countertop, use a spray &lt;strong&gt;lacqure&lt;/strong&gt; (sic) for an even finish. Please see finish manufacture's instructions for finish application.&lt;br&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Emphasis added&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would believe, therefore, that the &amp;quot;UV finish&amp;quot; is some sort of a lacquer finish and that you should look into lacquer repair techniques to repair your damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2023-10-15T16:23:55.503" LastActivityDate="2023-10-15T16:23:55.503" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14923" CreationDate="2023-10-13T14:08:17.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;@bowlturner has the right answer, but here's a hack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it’s only the perpendicular board, just unscrew it and shim it to the level of the highest board. A few boards might be a bit low, but that’s less noticeable (imho) than a high point. If the low boards were terrible, you could shim them too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2023-10-13T14:08:17.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14936" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14938" CreationDate="2023-10-15T22:38:13.787" Score="1" ViewCount="596" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Britain, there is a great deal of antique oak furniture and even room wood paneling that is very dark brown and black, sometimes with red undertones, and without the typical golden hues of modern oak.  What causes this oak to have this dark brown color?  Is it the aging of the wood, the aging of the finish (stain, oil, wax, varnish, etc), the normal color of some local variety of oak, was it stained originally in this dark color somehow, or something else?  These items mostly appear to be from pre-1900s.  Examples at the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The information I can find from retailers of oak furniture, woodworking books, DIY instructional sites, and oak as a material have all pertained to current woodworking processes rather than old processes.  I have found descriptions on the effects of age on current processes over years and maybe decades, but not centuries, and again that would be for modern processes and materials, not these antiques.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sellingantiques.co.uk/977450/18th-century-oak-box-settle/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.sellingantiques.co.uk/977450/18th-century-oak-box-settle/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KR9dN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KR9dN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Antique oak settle&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sellingantiques.co.uk/1004012/a-17th-century-panelled-oak-coffer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.sellingantiques.co.uk/1004012/a-17th-century-panelled-oak-coffer/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4pgEQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4pgEQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Antique oak coffer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;17th century &lt;a href=&quot;https://yeoldereinedeerinn.co.uk/pub-globe-history&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Globe Room&lt;/a&gt; of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://yeoldereinedeerinn.co.uk/gallery&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ye Olde Reine Deer Inn&lt;/a&gt; in Banbury, UK&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11844" LastEditorUserId="11844" LastEditDate="2023-10-29T19:29:57.287" LastActivityDate="2023-11-26T19:09:55.253" Title="What causes the very dark brown and black color of some antique oak?" Tags="|finishing|coloring|antique|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14937" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-16T13:15:19.557" Score="1" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some cabinet units that I am wanting to put a topper on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[top down view]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5v8EO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5v8EO.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am planning on using 18mm Birch plywood, however since this is relatively expensive I am wanting to make the most out of it/stretch its usage as I'm needing some shelves out of Birch as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, I am planning on making a faux double-thickness sheet by adding another thin strip of the 18mm birch to the edge and to fill in the rest of the area with something like regular plywood, or MDF as this will be cheaper, plus I already have plenty of MDF in the shed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question would be around the best (I know &amp;quot;best&amp;quot; is a contentious word on here, so let's say &amp;quot;most optimal&amp;quot;) way to go about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For context, I will be placing some bookshelves on top of this - When I get around to making them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would I be better off laminating the same size sheet of MDF/ply on the bottom or would I be wasting material and be better off simply laminating strips that follow the structure of the cabinet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like this, where the speckles represents the Birch ply and the white represents the laminating material&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EkDvh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EkDvh.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8149" LastActivityDate="2023-10-20T15:39:44.143" Title="Strategy for making faux double thick topper" Tags="|tabletop|strength|cabinetry|laminating|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14936" CreationDate="2023-10-17T08:09:46.483" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Natural effects, the wood itself&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;As touched on in some previous Answers, wood naturally changes colour over time. This 'base effect' so to speak is primarily due to UV light exposure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The natural colour change due to light essentially works in two directions: lighter woods tending to darken, darker woods tending to lighten. Oak is one of the former.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other natural effects with certain species and oak is one of those. This can be seen by the dark colouring of the underside of the lid's two boards and other parts of the interior, which would of course not have been exposed to much light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tannin reaction&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;And in addition to the above, oak is famous for its high tannin content and this will account for &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; of the particularly dark colouring in very old oak furniture pieces — tannins react with iron to produce iron tannate which is a permanent black compound. This is what creates the blackish staining around nails and other iron/steel fasteners in wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But where the tannic acid content is particularly high it only requires exposure to tiny amounts for a reaction to occur, for example any iron or iron salts dissolved in water used to wipe down a piece during routine cleaning. It only requries a single exposure for this to start happening; and contrary to common perception even when a piece is heavily oiled and/or waxed, some of the water can get through to the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Throw in a span of 400+ years and it's not hard to imagine how many chances there have been for some exposure to iron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Linseed oil&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;In addition to the effects occurring in the wood itself there's also a possible contributing effect if the wood were ever oiled, since in both Europe and America the primary oil used for such purposes was linseed oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's well known that linseed oil immediately deepens the tone of wood but in addition to that it darkens &lt;em&gt;significantly&lt;/em&gt; over very long timeframes, typically turning from the starting colour of amber or deep orange to various brownish shades, but can sometimes go distinctly reddish (as noted with some period military gunstocks). And in addition to the darkening over time, if raw linseed oil is allowed to cure in the dark it can turn very dark indeed, almost black&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dirt and grime&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Anyone who has ever cleaned a very old piece of furniture knows how much dirt can lurk in corners, recesses and carved detail! But this can also build up in natural features of the wood itself such as open grain — and oak is an open-grained species; some of the black colour in the grain lines of the oak settle above is very likely to be grime built up over time, some of which will have been 'locked in' by oiling or waxing over it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some combination of all of the above factors is what accounts for the particular dark and sometimes blackish colouring of old oak furniture and panelling in interiors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Where it's not of natural origin......&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Because of this dark colouring being so common, it started to become &lt;em&gt;desirable&lt;/em&gt; for older furniture pieces, as well as panelling and other architectural features, to be this dark. As a result it should come as no surprise that the colour of some oak was 'enhanced' using wood dyes&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, or coloured finishes because &amp;quot;That's what old oak looks like.&amp;quot; Your third link undoubtedly shows examples of this in the pub interiors&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This very dark brown colouring was (and still is) often generically associated with the Jacobean period, hence the presence to this day in finish ranges of &amp;quot;Jacobean Oak&amp;quot; or just &amp;quot;Jacobean&amp;quot; wood stains/dyes and coloured finishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Curing mostly or entirely in the dark &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; be what accounts for the redder tones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Starting with the traditional Van Dyke crystals. These somewhat confusingly come from walnut trees :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; The pieces in the first two links I would judge to be in as-found condition, bar cleaning and a fresh waxing, but there's absolutely no way to be sure from photos. (Note that it may even be impossible to tell in person, hence the number of people, even pros in the trade, who have been and continue to be fooled by clever fakes.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-10-17T08:09:46.483" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14939" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-18T19:19:47.420" Score="0" ViewCount="37" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to replace a rotted piece of a exterior door jamb for a friend. The best I can measure, it &lt;em&gt;seems&lt;/em&gt; to be, 2-3/8&amp;quot; (or 2-1/2&amp;quot;?) x 1-1/4&amp;quot;. I probably need to do some taking apart to be sure, but I cannot find any wood listed in that size. I do have a piece of 2-3/8&amp;quot; (well maybe 2-1/2&amp;quot;) x 1-1/2&amp;quot; and maybe that is what it really is. Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only photo I have at this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S3T5M.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S3T5M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13865" LastActivityDate="2023-10-18T19:19:47.420" Title="Seemingly odd exterior door jamb size" Tags="|wood|wood-selection|door|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14940" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-18T22:06:03.820" Score="0" ViewCount="242" Body="&lt;p&gt;In rail and stile cabinet doors, the stile (vertical) always runs the whole length of the door, while the rail (horizontal) does not. At least, I can't find any exceptions to this rule. Is there a reason for this, other than tradition? Can I build a door where the rails run all the way from the left edge to the right (that is, rotate the traditional design by 90 degrees)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y3gxh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y3gxh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;wooden cabinet doors&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12348" LastActivityDate="2023-10-20T15:19:20.263" Title="rail and stile question" Tags="|cabinetry|door|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14942" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-19T17:58:47.617" Score="1" ViewCount="538" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the title suggests, I'm having a few second thoughts about how to mount my 98&amp;quot; Saljan countertop to two sets of Alex drawers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've already bought three 14 gauge steel channels that I'll be putting in the middle to support the space between the drawers, so my main point of contention is where I'm going to bolt down the counter on the drawers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand the weight of the counter should keep things from moving around, but I'd much rather secure it down with some bolts screwed into threaded inserts I'll be putting into the countertop. Over-engineering, just like my old man. (Can you over-engineer cardboard furniture?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the Alex schematics, there's four pre-drilled holes for people that want to mount their desk top to the Alex, but it's all the way in the center. There's also barely any space between the two sets of holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be better to drill through one of the corner holes that is normally there for mounting wheels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fxCN8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fxCN8.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR&lt;/strong&gt; Here's a little screencap to illustrate what I mean. The two red squares are where they normally want you to run screws through to mount a desk top to the Alex drawers. The four green circles is where I'm wondering if it would be better from a weight distribution/securing/warp/sag preventing standpoint to drive those fasteners through instead. I'm using a 98&amp;quot; particle board Saljan countertop, and that thing is heavy. I've already reinforced the middle with three 14 gauge steel channels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13877" LastEditorUserId="13877" LastEditDate="2023-10-19T17:59:29.463" LastActivityDate="2023-10-19T17:59:29.463" Title="Securing an Ikea countertop to Ikea drawers (SALJAN and ALEX)" Tags="|screws|warp|fasteners|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14940" CreationDate="2023-10-20T15:19:20.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I...?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure. It's your door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a reason for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some theories:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's easier to mill one stile for each side than 2 or 3 or 4.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are fewer joints to make - there are 2 for each rail (a vertical one at each end) instead of 4 for each rail (two horizontal joints at each end).&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's less time consuming to make 4 joints than 2.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are fewer joints to fail with 2 joints instead of 4.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A horizontal joint across the stile relies on the glue to hold the lower parts of the door in place.&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Even a well glued, tight M&amp;amp;T joint connecting the short stile sections to a longer rail has gravity trying to pull a vertical tenon out of the mortise 24/7/365 for the life of the door.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A M&amp;amp;T joint from rail to stile will keep the door together against gravity even without glue at all. It's only centrifugal force from rapidly swinging the door that might try to pull the joint apart. At the most this would only happen when the door is used by hyperactive 4 year olds or possibly disagreements with the spouse over new tool purchases.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It looks funny because our brains have been trained to expect a 1-piece stile uninterrupted by rails.&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This applies to electric cars, too. Many of them look funny because they only have part of the &amp;quot;face&amp;quot; that we're used to seeing on cars that need air flow to cool their internal combustion engines.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2023-10-20T15:19:20.263" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14937" CreationDate="2023-10-20T15:39:44.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;best&amp;quot; way is entirely up to you, but here are some things to consider mostly as frame challenges to your plan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Plywood, of any grade or quality, is usually edge banded to hide the plys in any exposed edge. Assuming you'll be doing this, it doesn't matter &lt;em&gt;what&lt;/em&gt; the second, hidden layer is made out of - the edge of it will be completely hidden behind the edge banding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;18mm (~3/4&amp;quot;) is very thick, sturdy plywood. &lt;em&gt;Why&lt;/em&gt; do you want to double up the thickness? It appears that your top will have support every 500mm which should be more than enough to support an 18mm thick top against most loads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you want a 36mm edge just for looks, consider just applying an extra 18mm layer around the edges and not worrying about the middle at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Consider using a solid wood board at 36mm (or whatever thickness you choose at this point) for your edging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This wouldn't need &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; material behind it as it would attach to the edge of the plywood (and possibly under if you rabbet the banding) and serve as the edge banding for the plywood and the added thickness you desire all at once.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It has the added benefit that you could route both the top (a small round over or chamfer on the top to relieve the sharp edge) and a decorative design on the bottom to add some style (as you desire).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2023-10-20T15:39:44.143" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14946" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14947" CreationDate="2023-10-21T00:13:49.550" Score="1" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to hand tools and to bowties. After several videos and several attempts, I think I am getting the hang of the inlaying part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The making of the bowties still puzzles me though. Most tutorials say you should clean them up with a chisel but then gloss over the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I pare with the grain? It feels difficult to achieve a straight line throughout. And should I start the cut below the surface?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Light mallet taps with the grain? I’ve had the most success with this method, although also not super consistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lay them on the face and chisel vertically, similarly to how the matching cavity is made? Last time I tried that the grain split on me :( (maybe it was the time to sharpen, or maybe acacia is too crumbly — all my previous attempts were on oak).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would really appreciate any advice as at this point I spend almost the same time cutting and fiddling with the bowtie as inlaying it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10115" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-10-25T08:36:06.247" LastActivityDate="2023-10-25T08:36:06.247" Title="Cleaning up bowties" Tags="|technique|chisel|inlay|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14946" CreationDate="2023-10-21T10:05:01.583" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bowties/butterflies don't have to be perfect, in fact some asymmetry might be considered to be desirable rather than a defect. As far as I've seen historical examples are rarely up to the standards of today, which isn't surprising really since they're largely (completely?) a feature of vernacular furniture and not something seen coming out of the workshops of craftsmen of the highest order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now if &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; bowties need to 'perfect' then you practice making them until you get to that level. By practice I don't mean doing them in projects as the need/opportunity arises and hoping to see progress (this'll work but it's a terrible way to hone skills). It means sitting down and making four, six, even ten bowties one after another &lt;em&gt;each time you practice&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; — and possibly using a selection of different species too, since every species will present its own set of difficulties in making a visually flawless bowtie&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, you do them with a power router and template, live with the machine-made look that results, but get near-perfect results immediately and repeatably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I pare with the grain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes you'll want to do this (although I think primarily towards the end of the process when you're going for a sharp inside corner &lt;em&gt;if&lt;/em&gt; desired).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lay them on the face and chisel vertically, similarly to how the matching cavity is made?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. IME and from observation of others doing them by hand you'll primarily want to chop them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't have to be done with a mallet or hammer, because this is removing wood from an edge and because of the orientation of the cut relative to the grain it can sometimes be done entirely using hand pressure, or by pressing on the end of the chisel handle with e.g. your shoulder, or your chin pressing on the back of your fist. But this will entirely depend on your chisel's overall length, the bevel angle, your sharpening level and, remember, the wood itself — hardness, grain orientation, whether the grain is plain or interlocked are all factors in the resistance it will put up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do remember though:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A saw should be doing most of the work&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Just like with forming dovetails, the chopping should be a refinement process, not a creation process — the bulk of the shaping should have already been accomplished by sawing. How close to your layout lines you've sawn is a matter of individual skill and the saw being used, but I'd suggest aiming to have no more than 1mm (1/25&amp;quot;) to shave away from the edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would really appreciate any advice as at this point I spend almost the same time cutting and fiddling with the bowtie as inlaying it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That may be entirely appropriate, since the bowtie has to be as neat as your standards require, and it then forms the template for the mortise/pocket it goes into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may feel that this is &amp;quot;too slow&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;slower than it should be&amp;quot; but by what metric? For any given craftsperson at any given time, this is an &lt;em&gt;it takes as long as it takes&lt;/em&gt; operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some basic tips to follow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the widest chisel available, if possible use one that's wider than the length of the bowtie 'arm'. This is one of the reasons I bought a 2&amp;quot; chisel first opportunity I had.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure whatever chisel you're working with is &lt;em&gt;sharp&lt;/em&gt; sharp. And if it blunts during the process, stop and sharpen.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Knife your layout lines rather than just using a pencil. Fine pencil lines are plenty accurate, but a chisel can't register into them the way it can into a knife line.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Good lighting can make a huge difference; if you can't properly see what you're doing accuracy and speed can both suffer and good light is the first step.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consider getting some sort of vision aid. Doesn't have to be an OptiVisor or even one of its inexpensive clones, cheap reading glasses are a bit of a secret weapon for this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If possible raise the workpiece up a little higher than your standard workbench height; over time your back will thank you. Note however that the higher you go the more you'll want to use a mallet/hammer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;maybe it was the time to sharpen&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're in any doubt about a chisel being sharp enough it's extremely likely it isn't :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I can give you some cornerstone advice for where I think you are in your woodworking journey, practising sharpening is of absolute importance for the learner/developing hand-tool woodworker. Your process needs to give consistently good results, fairly effortlessly and, IMO quickly — while honing is not a race by any means, &lt;em&gt;and speed isn't necessarily something to directly practice for&lt;/em&gt;, you do need to get to the point that stopping work to sharpen doesn't feel like too much effort&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stropping little and often (as carvers often do) is one good way to retain peak sharpness with almost zero time penalty, taking you out of 'the zone' as any long, involved sharpening process — more than five minutes? — will tend to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Freehand stropping takes moments, literally 10 seconds or less; a quick hone on stones/diamond plates or honing + stropping should really take no more than three minutes all-in since there should be so little steel to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; You didn't think you'd only need to do this once, r-right? :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Plus in a 'dense' practice mode like this you'll more easily notice and retain how the grain of a specific piece of wood you're working with can help or hinder you (compared with observations made weeks or months apart).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Which is probably how &amp;gt;95% of people feel early on, it certainly was for me and most of the woodworkers I know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-10-21T20:07:58.550" LastActivityDate="2023-10-21T20:07:58.550" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14914" CreationDate="2023-10-22T20:07:29.000" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I finally got around to building this over the weekend. Turned out just as I had planned. Took forever to get the holes for the dowels right but I'm glad I took my time. The key was to set one dowel while I drilled the other so the positioning was perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is only a slight wobble in raised mode, but it's not enough to be a problem and honestly it's barely noticeable. Looking forward to spending a lot more time in the back garden now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZmlPi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZmlPi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZogSu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZogSu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13798" LastActivityDate="2023-10-22T20:07:29.000" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14949" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-24T01:39:37.773" Score="1" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on a loft bed for my daughter. I drew up some plans and am mid-build, but still working out how everything will attach. I plan on the head and the foot of the bed to each be one piece so it can be moved. The posts are L-shaped, with an filler that the rails will sit on. I'm not worried about weight, but want to reduce racking as much as I can. I purchased zipbolts that screw into a threaded insert I'll bury into my post. To keep hardware from being visible on my upper railings however, I need a different method to attach to posts.  I purchased some bedlock hardware but with only a 3.75&amp;quot; railing, it only has one hook, which upon receiving the hardware, I'm thinking might have some wobble to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wondering if screwing my railings instead into the post opposite the direction they run, given that I have zipbolts providing some pulling force to the main rails, might be pretty stable -- and if not, are there are joinery or hardware ideas that would be invisible, or not look bad. I haven't cut my rail/railing lengths yet, so I could maybe get creative there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**Added context: word used is cherry. Each board is thicknessed to 1.25&amp;quot;. Posts are 3 laminated boards to total 3.75&amp;quot;. Main rail is 6&amp;quot; wide, others are 3.75&amp;quot; wide.This is the harware I'm using to attach my main rails to the posts: &lt;a href=&quot;https://thecraftsupply.com/product/zipbolt-universal-tool-13-2/?sku=423513500&amp;amp;gclid=CjwKCAjw1t2pBhAFEiwA_-A-NCkxKrioAFguMAfIqCWf6My1zKVDUSfxhGD3Yd19E3fZWxrWU5DAdxoCJMkQAvD_BwE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://thecraftsupply.com/product/zipbolt-universal-tool-13-2/?sku=423513500&amp;amp;gclid=CjwKCAjw1t2pBhAFEiwA_-A-NCkxKrioAFguMAfIqCWf6My1zKVDUSfxhGD3Yd19E3fZWxrWU5DAdxoCJMkQAvD_BwE&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vbRLd.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vbRLd.png&quot; alt=&quot;Bed Design&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13891" LastEditorUserId="13891" LastEditDate="2023-10-25T11:32:59.830" LastActivityDate="2023-10-25T11:32:59.830" Title="Loft Bed Design - racking going to be a problem?" Tags="|design|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14950" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14953" CreationDate="2023-10-24T02:05:50.810" Score="2" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built this table out of ash, and finished it with Osmo Polyx hardwax oil, about 2 years ago. Recently a brown stain about 1/2&amp;quot; circle appeared. It looked to be down deep in the wood. The Osmo oil finish still repels water, but I figured perhaps it had gotten thin there and allowed a spill to seep in. I read online that you should sand down and sometimes that can remove it, but if not, to treat it with mineral spirits. Mineral spirits are banned in California now, but I read that acetone can also work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So...I sanded down, which did nothing, then wiped with acetone, which also did nothing. I brushed off the sawdust but didn't vacuum (I suspect that was part of my mistake here). I then coated with some Osmo Polyx, figuring that might darken the sanded spot. No luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, it pretty much looks terrible in that spot. Is there anything I can do to mask the sanded spot at this point? Maybe a wax filler stick? Or sand again deeper and then vacuum well? I just want to get it back to the original wood color at this point.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n7wQf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n7wQf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Medium-zoom picture of wood tabletop with a damaged spot that was sanded over&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uZ4UC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uZ4UC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Closeup-zoom picture of wood tabletop with a damaged spot that was sanded over&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JeFX6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JeFX6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Overall image of table&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13892" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-10-25T08:35:44.643" LastActivityDate="2023-10-25T08:35:44.643" Title="How to fix failed attempt to remove spot on table?" Tags="|refinishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14951" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-23T08:46:30.090" Score="2" ViewCount="81" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had glued spruce planks together using mixture of Titebond and sawdust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had tested such joins and found the bond to be surprisingly strong. For example, I had two short pieces of 2x6 inch spruce boards glued together edge-wise with grain of both boards in parallel, using that mixture. After a few days I tested the bond by hitting the jointed pair of boards against the concrete floor until they broke apart. But the jointed boards split apart along the grain of one of the boards rather than along the edges where they were bonded together. Thus proving the strength of such a bond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use this method of bonding spruce boards together because the sawdust admixture fills in the gaps due to unevenness of the edges of the two boards placed together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Had I planed the edges flat and applied pure wood glue, would the bond had been stronger. Did the sawdust admixture improve or deteriorate the bond, I wonder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I am thinking of building a kitchen countertop by gluing maple 1x6 planks together. I plan to plane the edges even AFAP (as flat as possible) before bonding and clamping them together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since 1x6 planks are actually 3/4 inch thick, I plan to glue the planks together in two layers to get a 1.5 inch thick slab. Perhaps by not having the edges of joins of top layer coincide with those of the bottom layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The question is:&lt;/strong&gt; would it be advisable to use purely wood glue or instead have maple dust mixed into the glue? I'm wondering if the saw dust will affect the strength of the bond negatively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My query does not concern with aesthetics of the bond, but rather the strength and durability of such a bond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Blessed Geek" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-10-25T08:13:09.567" LastActivityDate="2023-10-25T08:13:09.567" Title="Gluing maple boards with putty made with Titebond and sawdust" Tags="|glue|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14951" CreationDate="2023-10-23T10:24:35.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mixing the same wood sawdust into wood glue is a very common way to fill holes in boards/slabs. I have never seen a problem in a climate controlled area (i.e. inside the house) with sawdust mixed in glue. As you saw in your experiment, wood glue provides more strength than the wood itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest problem you will face with a 3/4&amp;quot; counter is flexing/lack of rigidity; as you noted 1.5&amp;quot; is far better. You should use some sort of a undercounter sheet (3/4&amp;quot; plywood would be great) to provide support and help prevent cupping. I also recommend running supports for the sink (1x4 oriented vertically). You should also seal it to prevent as much moisture from penetrating it as possible; specifically, butcherblock oil or some other food safe sealer if it is going to have food contact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made my own oak countertop a decade ago using a very similar process and it worked great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3759" OwnerDisplayName="UnhandledExcepSean" LastActivityDate="2023-10-23T10:24:35.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14950" CreationDate="2023-10-24T22:23:35.907" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do to mask the sanded spot at this point?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite the much-touted potential with some finishes to be able to &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;just sand and reapply the finish and the repair will be unnoticeable&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt; the reality is often found to be different!&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main issue with localised work on the surface of wood (finish or no finish) is: fresh wood is not the same colour as wood that has been exposed to light for a year or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We're often not consciously aware of this natural darkening because of course it happens incrementally over a long period, but as soon as you attempt a spot repair one becomes acutely aware of it! When you sand more than the lightest amount you are sure to reveal the fresh colour of the wood as has happened here. (Same if you have to plane or scrape.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;In theory&lt;/em&gt; you could therefore adopt a wait-and-see attitude and, fingers crossed, in six months or more the wood at the repair spot will have darkened to the same colour as the wood around it. That's a long time to wait with only a chance it'll come out good in the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some refinishing guides suggest local dyeing of paler repairs to match the colour of the wood around them. But while this certainly can work for the short term, what about when the wood beneath naturally darkens? IMB this approach might be fine for certain low-visibility areas, especially on surfaces that don't get a lot of direct light, but the middle of a tabletop.....?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is right in the middle of the most visible surface of a table, and like all such defects it will naturally tend to draw the eye. Worse when you already know it's there!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I think that unfortunately the way to go is to just swallow the effort involved and refinish the whole top. That's what you'll have to do anyway should the spot-refinishing attempt not work out long term.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go ahead with a full refinish you can take the opportunity to fully sand or heavily scrape the top and that might get down low enough that it'll erase the dark spot. It's sure to lighten it substantially at least. I would be inclined to try to get rid of the spot first&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; myself, but that's totally up to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; In fact that quote might be better expressed as &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;just sand and reapply the finish and if you're really really lucky the repair will be unnoticeable&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt; ^_^&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Since the stain could be of vegetable origin there's a decent chance the dark spot can be successfully lightened using common household bleach. If that doesn't work an oxalic acid solution would be the next thing to try (often works where conventional bleaching has failed, on red wine stains for instance).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-10-24T22:23:35.907" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14954" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-25T15:05:59.473" Score="0" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question that might not be directly related to woodworking, but I'm facing a significant challenge and concern. I would greatly appreciate your guidance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in Windsor, Ontario, and after a 10-year hiatus, I'm eager to resume my woodworking hobby, although not as a profession. The issue is that I reside in a quiet area, and I'm restricted in terms of the noise I can make. Specifically, I live in a semi-detached house with a shared wall with my neighbour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm considering purchasing an Avid CNC and setting it up in the basement, in one of the rooms. I plan to add one or two layers of &amp;quot;acoustic drywall&amp;quot; to minimize noise, but I'm uncertain about the extent to which these drywalls can reduce noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm curious if anyone else has encountered a similar situation and would be willing to share their thoughts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2913" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-10-26T04:54:32.430" LastActivityDate="2023-10-31T15:31:30.470" Title="Looking for advice on effective soundproofing of basement workshop" Tags="|plywood|cnc|noise|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14954" CreationDate="2023-10-26T12:59:47.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The basics of sound proofing are (as I understand it from reading through &lt;a href=&quot;https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/sound-proofing&quot;&gt;questions tagged &amp;quot;sound-proofing&amp;quot; at Home Improvement&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Physical separation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Noise on one side of a wall will travel through the studs that make up the wall.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sound proof walls are often constructed with a 2x6 top/bottom plate with 2x4s staggered every 8&amp;quot;, one on one room's side, the next on the other room's side. This arrangement puts a stud every 16&amp;quot; on each side of the walls to allow for normal spacing for hanging drywall. This minimizes the physical connection between the rooms.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Funny thing - I don't know what's done at the end of the wall where both sides need a stud to support the end of the drywall. Further research on this would be necessary.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mass&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The more mass there is, the harder it is for sound to travel through it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mineral wool insulation (Rockwool™ is one brand) is heavy and is often used for sound deadening&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mass Loaded Vinyl is often hung on one side of the drywall or the other.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are types of drywall that are heavier that are designed for sound proofing. 5/8&amp;quot; drywall is heavier than 1/2&amp;quot; so it's an option. Multiple layers are an option.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is &amp;quot;green glue&amp;quot; that's often used between drywall layers. I'm not sure of its properties or exact name, but I've seen the term bandied about.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Absorption&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sound absorbing foams are available that will help reduce the sound that hits a wall and is, thus, transferred through it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure I've missed a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of details and info. I really recommend browsing the linked questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2023-10-30T17:37:29.717" LastActivityDate="2023-10-30T17:37:29.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14956" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14958" CreationDate="2023-10-26T17:34:50.313" Score="0" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace some of my red oak flooring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;32 planks of my red oak flooring take up exactly 65 inches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the wood really 2 and 1/32th inches wide? Or are you supposed to leave a little bit of gap to allow for expansion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13271" LastEditorUserId="13271" LastEditDate="2023-10-31T16:43:01.840" LastActivityDate="2023-10-31T16:43:01.840" Title="How to account for expansion / shrinkage in flooring" Tags="|flooring|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14957" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-26T22:19:53.377" Score="3" ViewCount="179" Body="&lt;p&gt;Per Robert Wearing’s advice in The Essential Woodworker (image pictured below), I decided to put a curved edge on my jack plane iron. I used my low-speed grinder to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In doing so, I seem to have disrupted the uniformity of my bevel.  My goal is to get it back to a primary bevel of 25 degrees and a secondary bevel of 30 degrees. I tried honing it on a 300 grit sharpening stone and observed very little difference. Then I tried to grind the bevel(s) using the grinder, but began to disrupt the curved edge I had already created. What is the most effective way to re-establish those bevels without grinding my plane iron edge back to straight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alongside the picture from Wearing's book, here are pictures of what the curved edge and the bevel currently look like, so you can see what I’m trying to maintain and fix, respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: (response to Graphus)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, this is a jack plane cutter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the sentence you mention, I meant that while I was grinding the curved edge onto the plane iron (of a jack, yes), I believe the bevel of the iron unintentionally hit the wheel a few times, such that I ended up with a few different surfaces (of different angles) on my bevel, rather than a primary bevel of 25° and a secondary of 30°, which is what I understand the sharpening standard to be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've included two illustrations, one based on my original photo showing what my plane blade currently looks like, and one showing the ideal. I hope it clarifies matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt; I wanted to know the best way to return my bevel to a 25° primary and 30° secondary without flattening the curve I ground onto the blade's actual edge (experimenting with the grinder to do so seemed to result in that consequence). Should I hone it on sharpening stones (doing so for a little while seemed to make no difference)? Should I continue to try grinding it? If so, is there a particular method to use? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is helpful to know about the symmetry, thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZSPZP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZSPZP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/snk3p.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/snk3p.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xO9oY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xO9oY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QQm0f.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QQm0f.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13593" LastEditorUserId="13593" LastEditDate="2023-10-30T03:33:29.597" LastActivityDate="2023-10-30T17:57:06.440" Title="How to re-establish a uniform bevel on a plane iron (grinding or honing?)" Tags="|plane|sharpening|bevels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14956" CreationDate="2023-10-27T07:59:25.850" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;are you supposed to leave a little bit of gap to allow for expansion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As indicated above in the Comment by @bowlturner the expansion gap for flooring is normally left around the perimeter&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. I mean we don't commonly see &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; gaps between current floorboards do we?&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; The expansion allowance is hidden from view under the skirting boards which is why we tend to be unaware of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the wood really 2 and 1/32th inches wide?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only you can answer that because you have the boards in front of you. Typically with hardwoods however their measurements are actual, not nominal — &lt;em&gt;if unsurfaced&lt;/em&gt; — and should be reasonably accurate. The only way to be sure of the size(s) you're dealing with is by measuring your wood. Don't just measure one board and assume they're all the same, measure a bunch of them to check if they're uniform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Before installation, acclimation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Since you may not have read this elsewhere given the nature of the Question, it's &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; important to let the new wood acclimate to your home environment — ideally in the room it will be placed in — for at least a week (bare minimum) but if at all possible longer than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The boards should be stacked not touching side to side, and each layer separated. Sometimes this is done by cross-stacking but it's better to use 'stickers'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read more in the following link, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.oldewoodltd.com/what-to-know/resource-library/hardwood-floor-acclimation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Acclimating a Hardwood Floor&lt;/a&gt; (no endorsement, just the first informative link that a Google search brought up).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Note that it is far, far more important to leave enough gap at the edges (alongside the long grain) than at the ends where the end grain is because wood barely expands/contracts lengthwise. Boards primarily expand and contract through the seasons across their width, especially when the wood is flat-sawn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; If there are visible gaps between &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; floorboards I think it would be important to match them in the newly laid wood, unless you plan to re-lay the whole floor in a space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-10-27T07:59:25.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14959" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14963" CreationDate="2023-10-29T22:52:15.067" Score="3" ViewCount="157" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to design a plywood bunk bed (4 beds and one pullout actually), and am trying to figure out how to join the pieces.  My original plan was to use pocket holes, but now I am worried that they are not strong enough for the corners and guardrails.  How would you suggest to connect them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bit more info about the design based on comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plywood is to be used for everything except the slats and ladder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The beds can be secured to the walls on 3 sides.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The drawer cabinet is part of the structure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the design:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qKNqp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qKNqp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bunkbed-plans&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13919" LastEditorUserId="13919" LastEditDate="2023-10-30T21:47:28.550" LastActivityDate="2023-11-01T19:43:18.347" Title="Plywood Bunk Bed" Tags="|design|plywood|strength|screws|stability|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14960" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-29T23:17:39.930" Score="0" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was refinishing some old oak floors in rough condition, and troweled in Duraseal wood filler after a rough sand.  Mostly, it worked fine, but in some places in one room, the filler turned dark or black in the cracks between boards, or in nail holes.  In one spot near a wall, the filler turned black in a blotchy pattern in the middle of a board.  It's top-nailed quarter-inch red oak, and seems to have taken a lot of dog pee over the years.  Many of the boards were badly cupped prior to sanding, and big gaps exist between many boards.  We scrubbed with 3% hydrogen peroxide, using a small plastic bristle brush, to lighten the urine stains a bit, prior to filling.  The floor dried for about ten hours before I troweled the filler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wondered what is causing the filler to turn dark in places.  Could it be so much urine soaked into the wood that it's reacting with the filler?  Or residual peroxide?  We aren't expecting cosmetic perfection, but worry about how the mechanical properties of the filler might be affected by whatever is turning it black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13920" LastActivityDate="2023-10-29T23:17:39.930" Title="What would cause wood filler to turn black when refinishing oak floor?" Tags="|refinishing|filler|oak|flooring|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14957" CreationDate="2023-10-30T17:57:06.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay, first thing to mention is that a 25° primary and a 30° secondary are the convention but they're really textbook examples and they don't have to be followed to the letter &lt;em&gt;at all&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people who freehand sharpen don't know the angle that they hone at because A, it doesn't matter&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, and B, they never measure it. They just know if they lift the iron &amp;quot;this amount&amp;quot; higher they get their usual honing angle and they work on their secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your edge as-is&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Although it's kinda ugly what you have there is perfectly fine. It could maybe do with being a touch &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; curved, but that's not essential — just some sort of noticeable curve to the edge is what's important for a jack&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, not the exact curvature or how even it is. This also holds true for scrub planes that have a much more pronounced profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of it this way, this plane (ditto a scrub) almost always won't be the last to touch the wood, right? So even if each shaving did leave a noticeably uneven groove it doesn't matter because the next plane is going to be the one to flatten off the surface. If this plane &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; intended to be the last one to touch the wood then an irregular, hand-worked surface is what's intended anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the worry is not just about aesthetics but about cutting performance, bear in mind the primary &lt;em&gt;has no role whatsoever in the cutting action of a plane&lt;/em&gt;. On a plane iron, behind the honed cutting edge it doesn't matter if the steel is dead flat, ground hollow, slightly curved out (a cambered bevel), or a succession of even or uneven grinds. The ONLY part doing the cutting is the very edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that I've reviewed the relevant pages in &lt;strong&gt;The Essential Woodworker&lt;/strong&gt; some tips for next time you want to create a curved edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The best way to grind any new shape into the edge is to first do it 'flat', that is to grind &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/2398/how-does-one-aggressively-sharpen-chisels-and-plane-irons-when-damaged/2401#2401&quot;&gt;straight into the edge&lt;/a&gt;. Then you work to create the bevel that matches that profile, whether it's straight or curved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;While you can grind a new profile entirely by eye, it takes a bit of practice to do it well and if you want an even result each and every time it's best to create a simple template with a curved edge that you can lay onto the iron and draw around with a marker&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;. This is done on the flat (non-bevel) side of the cutting iron in case that's not clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some general observations on grinding and honing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On any standard grinder running a normal grinding wheel great care must be taken not to overheat the edge, as Robert Wearing cautions. It's &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; a complete disaster if this happens, but always do your best to prevent it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Realise that the closer you grind to the edge the thinner the steel is becoming, so it becomes more and more likely to overheat as the grinding approaches the edge (especially at the very corners&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt;). Generally aim to stop grinding when there's a gap of very approximately 0.5mm between the new ground bevel and the edge — depending on grinder speed, wheel type, your confidence level, how often you can stomach stopping and dunking in water. Once you get good at this, and with regular cooling, you can grind to within 0.2mm successfully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Since almost no honing jig allows for honing of a pronounced curved edge you pretty much have to do your honing of the bevel freehand. This is a great reason to start to learn to hone freehand; this can be difficult for some people (most?) but it's a lifetime skill and worth persevering with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A secondary bevel can be TINY. The modern concept of a microbevel is merely a secondary bevel that's very very narrow. They work the same either way. It's just easier and faster to create a small one (barely a shiny line at the edge) and progress from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A primary + secondary is not the only way to go, especially now with the easy availability of diamond plates (especially inexpensive ones from China have opened up this area to be a viable option for anyone). The extremely good cutting action of diamonds mean it's no longer necessary to think of primary and secondary bevels, and potentially you can grind an iron once, or, accept the ground edge from the factory, and literally never grind again, &lt;em&gt;for the lifetime of a tool&lt;/em&gt;, barring accidental damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remember that a properly sharp edge is only created if two smooth surfaces meet, so the back should also be taken up to a high level. But &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/13711/how-to-flatten-stubborn-hollow-on-the-back-of-a-plane-iron/13713#13713&quot;&gt;don't bother wasting valuable workshop time by flattening much of it&lt;/a&gt; :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you're not using a water-cooled or cold-running grinding system you must do something to cool the iron during any grinding process. The most efficient way is to dunk into water. &lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; despite cautions specifically saying not to do this there's virtually no evidence dunking repeatedly into cool water does the steel any harm; this cooling method has been standard practice since before any modern commentator was born, and if it commonly caused an issue it would be widely known! Consider these cautions yet another example of modern hand-wringing, &lt;em&gt;no matter the apparent authority of the source&lt;/em&gt;, and move on with your life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that all advice relating to overheating an edge and then completing the initial edge creation manually (regardless if freehand or in a honing jig) is now obsolete if running a CBN wheel, even on a high-speed grinder. Nor does it apply to any water-cooled system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; In reality it doesn't matter if the honed angle is 28°, 30°, 32° (all the way up to around 40°, although that steep would be unusual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; This is a jack used in the traditional British way, i.e. a &amp;quot;roughing jack&amp;quot;. These days many prepare their jack planes differently. (And I think in error, as it misses out on a very useful plane type for the hand-tool woodworker.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Or alternatively you colour the whole end, then use the template to scratch a line onto the steel. This shiny scribed line is very easy to see as you check progress, and won't wear off like a drawn line can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt; On a chisel this is very much not ideal, on a plane iron it's usually completely irrelevant — the corners don't do any cutting on almost all planes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-10-30T17:57:06.440" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14954" CreationDate="2023-10-31T15:31:30.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are concerned about the general noise in your shop area then you should worry about sound proof/deadening the room - which can be difficult and expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are worried about the noise the Avid CNC machine will make consider building a soundproof/sound reduction box to put the Avid CNC machine in. Searching for &amp;quot;soundproof cnc enclosure&amp;quot; will provide you with many ideas.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZkGU4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZkGU4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6222" LastActivityDate="2023-10-31T15:31:30.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14959" CreationDate="2023-11-01T14:41:12.037" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not recommend simply screwing this assembly together. There are a variety of ways to attach the members such as glueing, glue and screw, metal angles with screws, specialty hardware etc.  Before we can answer I suggest that you address a number of additional design considerations beforehand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vertical framing support at the ladder:  The top bunk left side must be supported at its corners.  This means that frame must be attached to the wall or supported by a column extending to the floor. and the outer corner must also be supported all the way to the floor.  Since the ladder stops short of the floor to allow the pull out bed to extend, it cannot carry the corner all the way down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed frame sides: These can be made of plywood which should be strong enough to carry the weight, but there will be a problem making connections to the end panels or columns.  Beds often have special hardware to make that connection which also allows the bed to disassemble easily.  There are other options which are less easily unconnected, but either way the plywood may require fasteners that extend through the sides with exposed fasteners which is something to consider.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wood Type: Whether you use plywood or solid wood for the bed frame sides, you will need a second piece of wood on the inside to support the bed slats.  This added thickness will also serve to keep the sides lined up straight.  The plywood especially will want to twist a bit near mid span when loaded with weight and the extra thickness from the slat shelf piece will help either wood type to resist twisting. The shelf piece should be glued to the sides.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Side Guard Railings: What you currently show is problematic, especially if they are made of plywood. Consider that they will be leaned and pulled against as users get in and out of bed.  Think of the connections at ends and corners as pivot points.  The connection between the wood pieces must resist the forces and prevent the rail assembly from twisting and pulling apart. These connections will be challenging enough with solid wood, but much more difficult to handle with plywood.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attachment Details: I do not recommend attaching the side frames to the end plywood panels by simply screwing through the back of the end panels into the sides. The ability of the screws to hold-on to the plywood is probably inadequate over time and use.  I definitely recommend some sort of metal connections such as angles or specialty bed frame hardware.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Exposed Hardware: As currently conceived, there will be a need for a lot of exposed fasteners. You should consider the hardware and connector types, appearance and locations in refining your design.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the design concept for your bed assembly is doable, it should be refined in much more detail before it is ready for the shop. Feel free to post your design, with changes, in a new question for additional responses. As you develop the design you are bound to have a number of detailed questions. You can add more questions to discuss these more focused design detail concerns as you progress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2023-11-01T19:43:18.347" LastActivityDate="2023-11-01T19:43:18.347" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14964" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-02T22:30:47.497" Score="2" ViewCount="81" Body="&lt;p&gt;This might sound like an obvious question to a lot of woodworkers, but I'm seeing some differing definitions on the web.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the formula for a &amp;quot;shellac cut&amp;quot;, i.e. mixing your own shellac?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RQ-FEtA0TKU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; defines a &amp;quot;2 lb cut&amp;quot; as &amp;quot;2 lbs of flakes dissolved in 1 lb of alcohol&amp;quot;. In other words, shellac/alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the admin on &lt;a href=&quot;https://thepatriotwoodworker.com/forums/topic/26804-shellac-lb-cut/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this forum&lt;/a&gt; describes it similarly, but uses very different units when he writes, &amp;quot;2 lbs of shellac to &lt;strong&gt;one gallon&lt;/strong&gt; of alcohol&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, since &amp;quot;1 gallon of alcohol&amp;quot; is about equal to 6.7 lb, that would make his example closer to a 2/6.7 = 0.23 cut which seems very diluted by the other definition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried mixing my own shellac using the second definition, using 33g of shellac flakes and 183g of iso alcohol, for roughly a 0.18 lb cut, and found it to be basically unusable. It's so watered down, it's like just putting alcohol on wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I correct in understanding the first definition is the correct one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13194" LastActivityDate="2023-11-19T19:58:09.813" Title="Mixing a shellac cut?" Tags="|finishing|shellac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14965" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14966" CreationDate="2023-11-03T09:28:28.873" Score="1" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am continuing to plan my bunk bed structure (4 beds and a pullout) and I have a follow up question &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/14959/plywood-bunk-bed&quot;&gt;Plywood Bunk Bed&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am now wondering if plywood is the best wood choice.&#xA;If I have a choice between ply or pine (or some combination?) which one would you recommend and why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plan is to connect the beds on three sides to the walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nkUrK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nkUrK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bunk bed plan&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13919" LastActivityDate="2023-11-04T08:10:15.140" Title="Wood type for bunk bed structure" Tags="|design|plywood|strength|pine|stability|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14965" CreationDate="2023-11-04T08:10:15.140" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am now wondering if plywood is the best wood choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For certain parts of this, very much so (assuming plywood of decent quality).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I suppose technically every piece of this could be made from solid wood where you want a panel plywood often shines due to not being subject to seasonal movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This stability of ply, and other board materials, simplifies various aspects of construction in addition to (esp. in the past) often being much cheaper&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; and saving a lot of effort and workshop time — processing boards, glueing them up into panels, further processing to bring the panel to final dimensions and perfecting one or both faces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On stability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Take the drawer fronts for example, from plywood they can be made with aesthetically pleasing small gaps all round and there's zero worry that they'll expand during the wetter seasons and bind in their openings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the 'boards' at the head of each bed are made from solid wood then expansion and contraction needs to be allowed for; even if it's fairly small it's still something and presents a problem for the other ends of the rails. If made from plywood on the other hand, again no worries about dimensions changing between dry and wet parts of the year so no concerns about the different ways that opposite ends of the rails are fixed to the rest of the structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have a choice between ply or pine (or some combination?) which one would you recommend and why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could definitely use pine for the parts here that would be better made from solid wood and not from ply, but, the dimensions of some pieces need to be considered carefully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general if you want relatively narrow pieces, and especially if they're &lt;em&gt;also intended to be thinner&lt;/em&gt;, in anything where structural strength is an issue you want a decent hardwood — just look at how chunky softwood furniture often is (and needs to be), compared to the much slimmer elements possible in hardwood furniture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not clear where you intend to source your pine (or 'pine' since the term is often used generically) but note that unless you buy much better than is typical for SPF the wood can often be relatively weak, full of knots, often warped, and perhaps of most importance, it's too damp to use immediately (see a quick primer on buying SPF for anything other than rough carpentry &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/14019/how-to-mitigate-a-crooked-banquette-bench-structure/14021#14021&quot;&gt;in this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt;. See &lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; But sadly that's not always the case now for good plywood, since prices skyrocketed during the pandemic, there were supply issues then and subsequently, and further supply issues have resulted from the war in Ukraine (making &amp;quot;Baltic birch&amp;quot; unobtainable in many places now, and seen a drop in quality of what is sold under that moniker).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; It &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; possible to get decent or actually quite good wood from dimensional softwood (2x material / SPF) &lt;em&gt;but generally only in the larger sizes&lt;/em&gt;, x6s up to x12s. Boards of these dimensions tend to be from larger trees and hence a different species to the very fast-growing stuff chosen for 1x2s, 2x4s etc. Note however that a lot of workshop processing is required to produce stock of small dimensions from these large boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-11-04T08:10:15.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14968" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-12T15:32:48.737" Score="3" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking at building a swimming pond and the deep end would have a wooden wall. The company I am buying the design specs from typically uses cedar for the wall. (Just so you can envision - the first three feet down are gradually sloped from all edges, and then the deep end is an octagon with a 3 foot wall at the edges.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have quite a few white oaks I am cutting down this winter and thought that wood from them might make a longer lasting wall (or at least as long lasting wall). This wood will be fully submerged under water 100% of the time. Likely to be cut into 5 X 5 or 6 X 6 beams and then stacked about 3-4 feet tall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is if I use the white oak that I cut down whether I need to still wait any time for it to dry (or get it kiln dried) or if because it will be permanently submerged under water if drying it is not necessary at all and I can just use it as is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also will be cutting some black oak and black walnut - but guessing white oak is the best for this underwater application given the closed cell structure and it being known for making boats, barrels, etc. Am I correct in this assumption?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13965" LastActivityDate="2023-11-14T08:48:19.740" Title="Using white oak for underwater wall of pond - need to dry at all first or not?" Tags="|wood-selection|wood-drying|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14969" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14991" CreationDate="2023-11-12T16:10:15.863" Score="1" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;I accidentally spilled a large mug of coffee with heavy cream on a piece of unfinished walnut veneered plywood that I plan to use in a desk build.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had plans to finish the piece with either tung oil or Minwax satin polyurethane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I need to do (if anything) to clean up/mitigate the spill?&#xA;Do I need to reconsider what finish to use?  If so, suggestions appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mineral spirits did the trick!  Many thanks to all for their suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tV5eZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tV5eZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: Desk top sitting temporarily on file bases.  Working on walnut drawers and bases for the bottoms ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2926" LastEditorUserId="2926" LastEditDate="2023-11-22T21:24:47.187" LastActivityDate="2023-11-22T21:24:47.187" Title="How to remedy spilled coffee on unfinished walnut" Tags="|finishing|surface-preparation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14970" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-13T12:39:36.077" Score="4" ViewCount="2409" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a novice when it comes to working with wood, however I would like to learn more. Please accept my apologies in advance for asking technical questions for such a basic project..... as this is not about the 'art' of woodworking, as much as my understanding of basic principles to follow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first project is to build some simple shelving units for my garage using 2x4 softwood construction (not pretty, but meets my utility needs and helps keep the cost low). Plans for 'cheap &amp;amp; easy' garage shelving are readily found all over YouTube and after reviewing too many to count, there seem to be some basic consistencies, such as adding perpendicular bracing underneath the shelf platform (spanning from the front rail of the shelf to the rear rail). I 'assume' these braces are intended to allow for a greater span between the shelving legs, helping to support the intended load and prevent sagging in the middle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question relates to this bracing: Some folks merely drive long screws at a 90° angle to construct the shelving, essentially creating a rectangular box for which the shelving material (I am using 7/16th MDF) is placed upon. The perpendicular bracing is then added under the shelf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Some&amp;quot; folks out there in YouTube land suggest using pocket-hole screws to join these braces to the shelf rails, instead of relying on the strength of a screw driven into the side of the shelving at 90°. Their argument is that the pocket-hole screws are &amp;quot;stronger&amp;quot; and will help carry the downward load placed upon the shelf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q1: Are pocket joints stronger for this application?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q2: If so, what locations would it make the most sense to use these pocket joints instead of simply driving the screws straight through the rails and into the braces?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YRBjb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YRBjb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once again, I realize this is a very basic 2x4 project, and I hold woodworkers in high esteem do to the combination of artistic talent and engineering required. I am hoping, if I start my journey into woodworking by understanding some basic principles, this will hopefully help tackle more challenging projects in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13968" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-11-14T08:54:53.027" LastActivityDate="2023-11-14T19:13:37.207" Title="Are pocket-hole screws stronger than 90° screw joints for building these garage shelves?" Tags="|wood|joinery|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14970" CreationDate="2023-11-13T14:20:13.943" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pocket screws are great when there is no other access (or you don't want the screw heads showing) and gluing with dowels is not an option. But their strength depends a lot on various factors including how you drilled the hold and the screwhead maybe pulling through the pocket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this is a first project for a garage, aesthetics don't matter all. So there is no need for pocket joints here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want strength for the shelves, the best thing is to have them rest on something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to do this with a 2x4 construction is creating some stub 2x4 along side the rails and creating pockets for the shelf to rest in. That way the screws into the shelves are there only to hold the shape and the strength of the shelves comes from wood resting on wood. And you have plenty of room attach the supporting bits to the uprights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If at the end you find that there is some play in the joints then add diagonal bracing to stiffen it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2023-11-13T14:20:13.943" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14970" CreationDate="2023-11-13T14:50:04.393" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The strength of the screw is in it's shearing strength, generally speaking for construction like this neither is inherently stronger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were worried the strength isn't enough put in another screw!  Or alternately, use Nails, nails generally have a much higher shearing capacity than any similarly sized screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2023-11-13T14:50:04.393" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14968" CreationDate="2023-11-14T08:48:19.740" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know of any data about whether fully wet applications are better using the wood green or previously dried. Some applications requiring the wood to be constantly wet in service &lt;em&gt;did&lt;/em&gt; start with green wood. This includes some or most dock pilings, as well as the elm used to make some piping historically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there is a possibility that this was merely due to one or more practical considerations and had nothing to do with a known, or supposed, superiority of the wood for this application!&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of any significant difference in decay resistance for white oak in this application, do bear in mind if you wanted to air-dry the wood you'd be waiting quite a while before you could proceed. Properly stickered and stacked, the rule of thumb for drying of &amp;quot;a year per inch of thickness&amp;quot; holds reasonably well for white oak....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kiln-drying is obviously way faster, but may not be feasible for a number of reasons&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or at least as long lasting&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just as a general point, while white oak is definitely durable, it is still classed somewhat below American cedars in standard classifications comparing kiln-dried wood. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.americanhardwood.org/en/latest/blog/technical-matters-4-durability&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Important note:&lt;/strong&gt; the various tables and data sets you might find online relating to decay resistance or exterior durability are mostly or exclusively based on the &lt;em&gt;heartwood&lt;/em&gt;. So it's important to go into this knowing that the yield of suitable wood (suitable for this project) from any of these trees could be substantially lower than expected; although this likely applies most to the black walnut which you may not want to or need to make use of for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; The difficulty, expense or time-cost of drying the wood in these dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Including being able to find a suitable service within a reasonable distance, and the added cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-11-14T08:48:19.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14975" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14978" CreationDate="2023-11-14T08:55:28.390" Score="2" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;This turned up in cleaning up the shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q1OFk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q1OFk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;two pics of thingie&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a base bar with three attachments. First a round bolt of adjustable angle, the pivot has angle markings &amp;quot;88, 68, 59, 49, CSK&amp;quot;. The other two form an axis and have an angled bed as if for something round. One attachment screws down to clamp what's held. The other pushes a base plate along the bed axis. There's also a little plate on the front, able to stick up into the bed's path but without quick adjustment by hand screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking it's more likely to hold a tool than a workpiece, perhaps knives for turning? What are those funny angle numbers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's this other item, a disc cutter for short pieces. It shows the same colors though I don't see where the first thing would be mounted, so it might be a red herring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RO2RR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RO2RR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;pushdown disc cutter&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13730" LastEditorUserId="13730" LastEditDate="2023-11-15T08:56:36.073" LastActivityDate="2023-11-15T11:23:39.930" Title="What is this vise or holder?" Tags="|hardware-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14970" CreationDate="2023-11-14T19:13:37.207" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you say, this is a utility need, so seeing the screws on the face of the shelf is ok.  Using pocket screws are only for asthetics and would only increase the complexity and time to finish your project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13974" LastActivityDate="2023-11-14T19:13:37.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14906" CreationDate="2023-11-14T19:53:58.607" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you used the wrong screws and at the wrong angle. Sheetrock and or drywall screws are designed for there purpose. Which is NOT wood working screws. They are to brittle.&#xA;Next time, do yourself a favor and get a pocket hole jig. They are self explanatory and very strong. This jig is designed to connect inside corners and hidden fasteners. They take the guesswork out of the equation.&#xA;Like the gentleman before. You should be OK with your project.&#xA;I am a professional finish carpenter with 30 years experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13975" LastActivityDate="2023-11-14T19:53:58.607" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14975" CreationDate="2023-11-15T11:23:39.930" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The machine is a miter saw, and appears to be unrelated to the first tool: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/27150.php&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/27150.php&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing is probably a holding guide for sharpening drill bits (image source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://dengarden.com/home-improvement/drill-sharpener&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://dengarden.com/home-improvement/drill-sharpener&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E6xi0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E6xi0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Drill bit holder&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There should be a base where the cylindrical rod goes in.  It allows to position a drill with a fixed angle and rotation next to a bench grinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10431" LastActivityDate="2023-11-15T11:23:39.930" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14979" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-15T16:40:23.010" Score="1" ViewCount="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am refinishing a table top. I started by using a wood stripper. Followed by sanding the entire table down with various grits. I then vacuumed the surface and used mineral spirits to prep for stain. I applied the stain and it came out very uneven. The ends of the table top did not take the stain the same as the rest of the table. To try and fix the issue I re-sanded the table top to the bare wood again and applied a wood conditioner. After the wood conditioner I reapplied the stain and got the same issue. As a last effort I switched to gel stain and it’s still inconsistent. I have never had an issue staining before. I don’t know what else to do here. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/on1H7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/on1H7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13986" LastActivityDate="2023-11-15T16:40:23.010" Title="Table top uneven stain" Tags="|wood|staining|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2023-11-16T14:46:24.833" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14980" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14988" CreationDate="2023-11-18T14:43:10.053" Score="0" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently inherited this saw, which needs a sharpen. Before I invest in the (large - the saw is 5tpi) file needed, is it possible to sharpen them? I can foresee at least 2 challenges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, normally one would rest the narrow edge of the file in the gullet, but this isn't possible in the large gap between the groups of teeth, so how is the file supported here?  Second, the rake of the &amp;quot;half tooth&amp;quot; immediately behind the gap is wildly different to that of the other teeth so how would one adjust the fleam to compensate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming a cross cut because that's probably what I'd use it for, but maybe these are always rip?&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SVDY2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SVDY2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14001" LastActivityDate="2023-11-20T10:22:12.923" Title="How to sharpen hand saw with grouped teeth" Tags="|sharpening|hand-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14981" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-18T19:56:37.773" Score="2" ViewCount="146" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been building a murphy bed cabinet out of baltic birch plywood (I like the visible layers on the edges). I bought/cut sheets of 4'x8' for this purpose. One side is clear, and the other side has several irregular patches. All but one of the plywood pieces has only one side showing, so the patches are mostly irrelevant. One of the upright side pieces, however, will have both sides visible, so I want to hide the patches on that side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This side piece that has the visible patches is 16&amp;quot; x 88.25&amp;quot; and the plywood is nominally 3/4&amp;quot; thick (it has 13 plys/layers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figured I would&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;put a birch veneer on the one side with the patches,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;leave the other side as is, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;seal it with 3+ coats of water based polyurethane (no stain).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that ALL sides (front, back, and 4 edges) of each piece will get the water-based poly finish, including sides/edges that will not be visible once the murphy bed cabinet is assembled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never applied veneer before, so I am researching to figure out which product(s) I should use. Only that created even more questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I put veneer on just one side of the baltic birch plywood? Or do I need to do both sides?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the answer to this depend on the type of veneer (paper-backed, vs wood-backed), or on the adhesive used to attach the veneer (3m peel&amp;amp;stick, wood glue, contact cement, ...)? In other words, is there a veneer product that does not require applying the veneer to both sides of the Baltic Birch ply?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw a question about laminate on 2 vs 1 side, but I'm not sure if that advice applies to veneer or to my use of baltic birch (thus no voids, unlike typical hardwood plywood): &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/q/5015&quot;&gt;Do I need to laminate both sides of plywood or can I coat one side and laminate the other&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14002" LastEditorUserId="14002" LastEditDate="2023-11-20T00:10:46.323" LastActivityDate="2023-12-21T09:00:35.127" Title="Veneer on 1 vs 2 sides of Baltic Birch ply?" Tags="|furniture|plywood|polyurethane|veneer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14982" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-19T14:34:10.917" Score="2" ViewCount="265" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a wooden table that’s extendable. Unfortunately, i let the middle extension piece slip away at some point, and now I’d like to recreate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found wood with the correct thickness and length and width. I can create dowels and dowel holes to fit it where the old one went. Staining it the correct color might take a couple of tries but I’m sure I’ll get it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last thing I need to know how to do is to craft the accent edge of the board to match the rest of the table:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SyPBp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SyPBp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JR73N.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JR73N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;A = 3/8&amp;quot; - diameter of large roundover part of ogee&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B = 5/8&amp;quot; - radius of ogee (about 1 1/4&amp;quot; diameter) NOT 1/2&amp;quot; like in picture&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C = 1&amp;quot; - total vertical length of ogee (1&amp;quot; cutting length, is this called 'carbide length'? )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have learned that this was probably made with an ogee bit. My plan is to start with a 1/4&amp;quot; cove bit. This will create the start of the profile. Then do something (??) so that I can use a 3/8&amp;quot; roundover bit on the rest of the way (how do I get this bit to work inside half the cove?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a particular router bit that would make this job easier? Or another tool that’s good for the job? I have a 3D printer that might come in handy for some kind of mold or guidepiece, but I’m not sure how I would even use it. I have never used a hand router before, just a dremel. I’m not sure how to use the router to get consistently straight passes like in this video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/npqBGB_9DTo?si=ZG2luexM0psTzvJL&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/npqBGB_9DTo?si=ZG2luexM0psTzvJL&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last step will be to smooth off the bottom corner, which I will just sand (that part doesn’t need to match as perfectly)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2023-11-21T13:57:53.853" LastActivityDate="2023-11-21T13:57:53.853" Title="How to route smoothe, diagonal S-shape onto edge of wood board?" Tags="|router|table-making|router-bit|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14982" CreationDate="2023-11-19T16:59:04.633" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, there isn't a standardized size/profile for an Ogee edge, and you will find plenty of options available online, home centers and woodworking specialty shops. Finding a match to your profile will require perseverance and luck with many variations and profile thicknesses having to be satisfied. At best you will most likely only find profiles that are similar, but not exactly the same. As you question suggest, it is also possible to match sections of the profile and create the profile with multiple passes at different depths, but the issue there is to maintain a straight line.  To do so you will need a router table so that that a fence is controlling the line of the bit instead of a wheel on the bit.  If you try this approach, I recommend that you set up practice runs on scraps to before attempting it on your actual tabletop piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2023-11-19T21:01:37.077" LastActivityDate="2023-11-19T21:01:37.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14964" CreationDate="2023-11-19T19:58:09.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's pounds of shellac per gallon. Yes, a 1-pound cut is extremely light; the lightest I've heard commonly used is 2-pound and traditional &amp;quot;shelf standard&amp;quot;  (including premixed stabilized such as sealkote) is 3-pound, commonly diluted to taste before use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that you don't need to, and usually shouldn't, mix a whole gallon at once. But you can't just divide both numbers by the same factor since they have different density and you're using weight for one and volume for the other. 2 oz. of flakes in 8 oz. of alcohol is also a 2-lb cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Websearch will find both tables for the proper mixtures and ratios for dilution if you want a named result rather than &amp;quot;that looks about right&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2023-11-19T19:58:09.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14982" CreationDate="2023-11-19T21:33:04.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Common alternatives to bits in motorized routers include&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;handplanes made to cut locally common molding shape(s) used to be a feature of a good cabinet maker's shop, and can sometimes be found used (in variable condition, of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;scratch stocks&amp;quot;, which are essentially a scraper blade ground into the right shape plus a handle to keep them from drifting from a specific position relative to the reference edge. Some have made them out of &amp;quot;retired&amp;quot; bandsaw blades, I'm told. More suited to small details than to, say, shaping the edge of a tabletop. But for a relatively short cut, the advantage is that with enough patience and dexterity you could file one so it's cut exactly matched your existing profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to point out the obvious: if you are going to use a non-lace tablecloth, exactly matching the decorative curves and colors is less important than getting the size and doweling right. If your concern is this holiday season rather than next year's, you might want to go with ugly-but-on-time rather than Fine Furniture Someday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(If you're building a leaf to complete it for its own sake or for resale, if course...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2023-11-19T21:33:04.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14986" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-20T02:00:19.207" Score="1" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had considerable problems trying to flatten maple woodblocks by hand for printing on an etching press.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I often print with a jig below the block to allow me to register multiple colors -- the jig may not be completely flat, but I don't think that is the main problem. The roller on an etching press is extremely precise, so the block must be incredibly flat, otherwise shallow areas will not print (see trial prints, also 2 prints with different pressures).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before chiselling in a design, a perfect rectangle must be able to be printed; which often proves elusive. It's fairly easy to flatten smaller sizes, but as the size of the block increases, the more difficult it is to flatten a block. My blocks are relatively small, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After initial experiences with warping, I was able to order quarter-sawn and rift-sawn Maple and allow them to acclimate to the humidity where I work, which has worked out; much less warping. I use the maple because of the detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried a wide variety of techniques. I've gotten better with a Stanley #4 hand plane, but I get some pockmarks, although the edges come out crisp and square. Invariably, if I try to flatten the block with sandpaper wrapped around plexiglass, the edges will become rounded no matter what I do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've come to realize I'd have to work on a larger block, then cut it down on a table saw to avoid rounding of the edges. I've tried adding wood and/or tape to the bottom of the block (a technique called &amp;quot;make-ready,&amp;quot; image attached) and planing from the bottom as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am aware of jointers and planers and their differences; they're just a bit beyond my budget presently. Someone suggested a belt sander, which might be cheaper but not sure if that would round off the edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ndmc7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ndmc7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;trial prints&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KHfiM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KHfiM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;flattening with sandpaper under plexi&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GcmI2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GcmI2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2 different printing pressures&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B3GN5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B3GN5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&amp;quot;make-ready&amp;quot; technique - adding material to back of block&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13902" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-11-20T09:05:06.557" LastActivityDate="2023-11-20T09:05:06.557" Title="Flattening a maple woodblock by hand for fine art woodcut printing on a press" Tags="|wood|technique|hand-tools|sanding|hand-planing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14987" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-20T05:09:20.473" Score="0" ViewCount="63" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you please advise the best steps to fix this chair?[two edges are cracked&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jdccR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jdccR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14006" LastActivityDate="2023-11-22T05:44:15.910" Title="Back of broken wooden chair" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14980" CreationDate="2023-11-20T10:22:12.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I invest in the (large - the saw is 5tpi) file needed, is it possible to sharpen them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. Like &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; old saws this is intended to be user-sharpenable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming a cross cut because that's probably what I'd use it for, but maybe these are always rip?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AFAIK these and most similar saws are made for 'bucking' and other crosscutting jobs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And certainly this pattern — the &lt;strong&gt;Great American&lt;/strong&gt; — is specifically designed for cross-grain cuts. There are minor variations in the various saws identified as having this tooth pattern, as you'll see if you compare your teeth groups and gullets (in width and depth, plus taper/no taper) to other Great American saws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sharpening&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Good news on the sharpening front is that the files originally intended to sharpen this and similar tooth patterns (which have a teardrop cross-section) are still made and still available, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://warrensvillefile.com/product/crosscut-files/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodlandcraftsupplies.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;amp;cPath=47&amp;amp;products_id=500&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then see &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.crosscutsawyer.com/viewtopic.php?t=1025&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt; on crosscutsawyer.com Although it may be worth hunting down further info that clarifies certain details of the tooth geometry and filing method I think the thread has enough information to get anyone started sharpening a saw of this type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; I want to also note that these files seem relatively abundant on the seconhand market so vintage files are another possibility. Even if rusty a vintage or older file may be restorable to good user condition, see previous Q&amp;amp;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3566&quot;&gt;How to restore old files?&lt;/a&gt; for more if interested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-11-20T10:22:12.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14981" CreationDate="2023-11-21T08:13:38.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I put veneer on just one side of the baltic birch plywood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes you can, since there are no woodworking police to tell you want you can and can't do in your own workshop :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More seriously, one &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; sometimes get away with adding veneer on one side only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or do I need to do both sides?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in the previous Q&amp;amp;A that you linked to, it's standard practice to laminate both sides, i.e. to veneer and counter-veneer, and for a sound reason. This is why plywood is 3-ply, 7-ply, 13-ply etc. and not 4-ply, 12-ply......&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is really whether you can get away with veneering just one side, and as I say above you might. But you might not, and since there's no way to accurately predict what will happen it's a &lt;em&gt;try it and see&lt;/em&gt; proposition which you might not want to roll the dice on&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to use this piece and you absolutely don't want to veneer both sides (regardless of why) then there is a fairly obvious solution and that's to remove the existing face veneer + patches and then re-veneer. It won't be a like-for-like replacement exactly but it's at least a lot closer to adhering to established principles of veneering than adding a new layer on one face only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Some other alternatives&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stain or otherwise colour the patches so they don't stand out as much.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chip out the patches and replace them with epoxy fills the colour of your choosing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stain the entire project or parts of it dark enough that the patches become hard to see or unnoticeable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paint this piece of ply. The uniform all-plywood look does have its charm, but there are no rules about what you can choose to paint. And maybe a pop of colour will be the making of the completed piece!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Irrespective of substrate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Remember this isn't just a concern for now/soon after completion, how will it fare after multiple cycles of seasonal moisture exchange?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-11-21T08:13:38.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14969" CreationDate="2023-11-21T09:19:14.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to get it out of the way at the outset, buying another piece of ply is certainly the most direct solution and possibly even the fastest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of use will at least want to &lt;em&gt;try&lt;/em&gt; to salvage the piece so here are some suggestions. These may or may not work well enough for use in the original project&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a spill like this there are two issues to face: the dark stain from the coffee and the fat contamination from the cream. Both are tackled to some extent by an obvious first step and that's to simply wash down the surface&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, the same way you'd wash down any surface that you'd spilled creamy coffee on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The coffee component will have stained the veneer and it's possible (probable in fact) that the staining will go deep enough that it can't be removed entirely by washing. On solid wood you could plane, scrape or sand until you're below the affected wood but this isn't possible on veneer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bleaching e.g. with common household bleach may reduce or remove the rest of the coffee stain, but ideally I'd save this step until after degreasing, to give the bleach the most uniform access to the wood. Remember the water content of any bleach tried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to the fat, degrease with acetone if you have it. If not use grain alcohol, denatured alcohol (UK: methylated spirits) or mineral spirits (UK: white spirit) in roughly order of preference. Do this ASAP&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have a surface that water doesn't bead on you've done enough and you can assess how you did on removing the visible staining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If after cleaning, degreasing, any bleaching and &lt;em&gt;light&lt;/em&gt; sanding or scraping the stain is still very evident here are some options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If possible, flip the plywood over and use the other side as the show side.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use more coffee (black!) to stain the rest of the face similarly. In some scenarios it will be impossible to remove the dark ring from the edges of the initial spill.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use actual wood stain, dye or &amp;quot;gel stain&amp;quot; to colour the wood dark enough that the coffee stain becomes unnoticeable. Anything as dark or darker than e.g. Jacobean Oak or Dark Walnut stands a chance of obscuring the remaining staining.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; The stained plywood isn't a write-off. It can be saved for something utilitarian like workshop cabinets or cut down for jigs etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Care must be exercised here as some plywoods can tolerate lots of water while others cannot (note, &lt;em&gt;sometimes even if classed as waterproof or water-resistant&lt;/em&gt;). So it's highly recommended to test on some offcuts, scrap or non-show surfaces how tolerant &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; ply is prior to using much of any watery liquid — this includes household bleach and peroxide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; With milk and some other dairy whiteners you need to do this before the caseins begin to set, after which you're never getting the stain out :-) With heavy cream the casein content is extremely low apparently (possibly zero) so this is less of a concern than otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-11-22T08:02:31.213" LastActivityDate="2023-11-22T08:02:31.213" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14992" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-21T10:11:05.997" Score="0" ViewCount="126" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning the construction of a table I want to build in the near future. I'm pretty new to calculating beam and plate deflections, and I can't seem to find the information I'm looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, the table has rails to expand the tabletop in both directions, from 1000x1500mm (collapsed) to 2000x2500mm (fully extended). I am having trouble calculating the deflection of the overhanging tabletop, and assess if there is a need for additional support. I am particularly worried about the corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Planning a 26mm thick Oak board as the material (12,5 GPa MoE)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fully extended tabletop is 90 kg (a total of 882,9 N, or 176,58 Pa)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Centrally will be a 750x1250mm storage box with legs at each corner, supporting the tabletop (shown on image below). Since the support structure doesn't expand, this will give increasing overhangs from 125mm to 625mm in both directions. I am only calculating for fully extended, as lesser will presumably also be fine then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w2Fpd.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w2Fpd.png&quot; alt=&quot;Central support structure&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By my calculations these wooden beams will be more than fine for the weight (but I have considered adding a crossbeam in both directions within the box for even more support)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two 750x116x26 beams at 882,9 N/2m (441,45 N/m) will deflect &lt;strong&gt;0,02151mm&lt;/strong&gt; (20522 N/m for 1mm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two 1250x116x26 beams at 882,9 N/2,5m (353,16 N/m) will deflect &lt;strong&gt;0,13278mm&lt;/strong&gt; (2659,7 N/m for 1mm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An extension rail is fixed to both sides. These rails will carry a wood beam construction as shown on the image below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gJzCF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gJzCF.png&quot; alt=&quot;Wood beam construction attached to the rail&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crossing beam will carry a second rail, attached directly to the tabletop. These beams should also be plenty for the weight requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;metal rail set can carry up to 90 kg loads, according to seller (45 kg for each side; I am considering 2 rails for better support)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two 600x110x26mm cantilever beams at roughly 353,16 N/m will deflect &lt;strong&gt;0,07936mm&lt;/strong&gt; (4450 N/m for 1mm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One 800x110x26mm beam at roughly 441,45 N/m will deflect &lt;strong&gt;0,06531mm&lt;/strong&gt; (6789 N/m for 1mm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addtion to allowing movement this will also provide a bit of additonal support for the shortside overhangs, as illustrated on the image below&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w5nRx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w5nRx.png&quot; alt=&quot;Topdown view of the tabletop, collapsed and fully extended. Central support and rails highlighted&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This still leaves both longsides as &amp;quot;pure&amp;quot; overhangs, and this is where I'm stuck. Particularly for the corners, as they aren't quite as supported as the overhang adjacent to the central support&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inputting the longside overhang into &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sagulator&lt;/a&gt; as a floating 'shelf' of span 2500mm, depth 625mm, thickness 26mm and uniform load of 50 kg, I get a sag of 8,88 mm total, which is obviously too much, but that also assumes that the entire span is fixed at one end, which isn't quite the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trying to calculate the overhang as a cantilever beam doesn't quite work, as it is too wide (calculation claims only 0,41672mm deflection at 1000 N/m, which feels clearly wrong).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I can't find resources online for overhanging plate deflections, and the (free) online calculators I can find doesn't seem to allow for this particular case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm reasonably certain that the components won't break under the stress required of this table, but I would still like it to also not tip over when guests place their elbows on the edge, or bend so much that our stuff slides off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been considering adding extra legs to the second rail, which would then move with and support the corners better, but I'm not sure if this is necessary, and that is the thing I would like to figure out.  My question is about calculating deflection for overhanging wooden plate. Can anyone help point me in the right direction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13931" LastActivityDate="2023-11-22T20:05:48.363" Title="Deflection calculation for overhanging tabletop - assessing need for support" Tags="|furniture|tabletop|strength|table-making|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14993" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14994" CreationDate="2023-11-21T17:24:35.903" Score="2" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I glued my teak joint with wood glue and after 4 hours I realised I had the parts mixed up so I had to pry it apart again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The glue I used was Evo-stick interior wood glue. It was white. The parts didn't splinter when I opened the join and some of the glue was still wet in the center. Luckily I had made a poor job of flattening the surface and didn't clamp them tight enough. After coming back I scraped the glue and some wood off the surface with a sharp chisel and glued again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I just re-glue now or do I need to treat the surface before trying again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SpVeL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SpVeL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;teak joint this will be a bed&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14015" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-11-23T08:54:15.570" LastActivityDate="2023-11-23T09:45:34.067" Title="Glue mistake and redo" Tags="|glue|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14993" CreationDate="2023-11-21T18:07:19.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;generally for best results in using wood glue, it is highly recommended to clean off all the old glue before hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2023-11-21T18:07:19.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14992" CreationDate="2023-11-22T01:41:31.257" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This design will not work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The table frame:  While the basic frame appears reasonable for a table design, the extensions will not work.  It is not clear how they will attach to the main platform frame.  What is clear is that they only connect the main frame for several inches in the expanded position.  Think of this as a hinge point with a very long lever arm extending to the outside edge. Any weight on the outer edges of the table will put high stresses on the connections back at the leg points.  As a general rule, structurally the extension rails should be in contact with the main frame side rails for approximately 2/3 of their length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The table top:  As bowlturner mentioned in a comment, the individual top pieces should be supported near both ends in at least one direction.  You have too many pieces that are relying on some sort of connection to adjacent pieces rather than resting upon the frame.  Think of each tabletop leaf joint as a potential hinge point (a point of weakness).  You should not depend upon adjacent panels to support each other.  There should be some sort of pins to help keep the various leaves aligned, but they do not bear weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at designs of tables in furniture stores as a reference.  Notice that if the table extends in length, the support rails extend a significant length along the main frame so that when extended they still have significant connection with the main frame.  Also note that the tabletop is generally two large panels that open in the center to allow filler leaves to be placed in the opening.  The individual leaves extend beyond the edge of the side rails, but usually a maximum of foot +/- (the same basic 2/3 supported standard I mentioned above).  These tables never expand in both directions (side to side and front to back) without some attachable frame extensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other thing to consider for a table.  Practically, the center of the table should be accessible for a person standing at the sides in either length or width without bearing weight on the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2023-11-22T20:05:48.363" LastActivityDate="2023-11-22T20:05:48.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13619" CreationDate="2023-11-22T16:00:30.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built my own 22&amp;quot; drum sander and I see one main problem with using PVC, and that is that it will be difficult, if not impossible, to make the drum parallel to the bed of the sander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a link to my sander:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lumberjocks.com/showcase/home-made-22-drum-sander.51692/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.lumberjocks.com/showcase/home-made-22-drum-sander.51692/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I did was made a bunch of discs out of 3/4&amp;quot; MDF and glued them together over the shaft, and mounted the shaft on pillow blocks. The discs don't have to be perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, to make parallel to the bed, I took a piece of very flat plywood and glued 60 grit sandpaper (the same stuff I used for the drum) to the flat plywood. This is my sanding block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You use this upside-down, so that the block rests on the bed with the paper facing up. Lower the drum (or raise the table, as in my design) so that the drum barely touches the sandpaper, and work your way across the drum truing it up. Then continue lowering the drum or raising the bed until you get a smooth drum across the whole length. Use pencil lines on the drum to see where/if it needs to be sanded more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've built this thing in 2006 and never once had to re-tune up the drum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1781" LastActivityDate="2023-11-22T16:00:30.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14993" CreationDate="2023-11-23T09:45:34.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I just re-glue now or do I need to treat the surface before trying again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the added details you were well set up for achieving a good outcome when re-glueing. And also as you say in the Comments and as the picture makes clear, this joint isn't critical for strength so it's very forgiving if you got a glue bond below the possible maximum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What follows is the generic info, but before that two additional points since this is teak and you mention you didn't clamp tightly enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Teak&lt;/strong&gt; — an oily tropical wood, and like all such woods surfaces to be glued can benefit from being wiped down with acetone just before glue application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clamp pressure&lt;/strong&gt;  — when joining flat faces using PVA &lt;em&gt;if max strength is desired&lt;/em&gt; you need to clamp &lt;em&gt;hard&lt;/em&gt;. It's essentially impossible to over-clamp a joint in the home workshop as long as both joint faces are fully wetted by the glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, if you can separate two pieces of wood without splintering, and especially if there is still liquid glue present in the joint when you do this, then you're in very good shape to get a good bond when re-glueing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do still need to carefully remove as much of the original glue as possible, but it's a lot easier if the glue hasn't fully dried. Removal of dried/semi-dried glue is usually a scraping job regardless of glue type, but when the bond is still fairly fresh you can start by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wiping down with plenty of clean water. Use very warm/hand-hot water if available. If the glue used was epoxy you want to be using acetone instead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scraping back (as much as possible to bare wood) with anything suitable&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe a light sand&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Additionally when using PVAs, white or otherwise coloured, cleaning off the residues can be helped along with acetone or lacquer thinner/cellulose thinners (which is often mostly acetone). Acetone doesn't fully dissolve PVA, but will soften it noticeably and can make it much easier to scrape from wood&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's possible to resurface the entire joint face to expose new wood, as you can e.g. on the edges of boards being glued up into a panel, then by all means do so. It gives maximum peace of mind and would often be the fastest anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; From dedicated carbide scrapers to card scrapers, single-edge razors or utility-knife blades, a chisel tip or even just a sharp knife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; You do not want to create a rough surface with PVA glue in particular. PVAs require intimate contact between the joint faces, and a rough surface — even that left by rough sanding — isn't smooth enough to get the best bond. A rougher surface is OK if using epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Also a go-to for helping to remove glue from clamps, along with judicious use of a heat gun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-11-23T09:45:34.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15003" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-25T01:26:12.757" Score="0" ViewCount="61" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been working out a process to mill usable lumber from some trees that fell on my property.  They are all either maple or cherry.  Most of what I've read said to allow one year of drying time per inch of thickness and I've been following that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in one video I watched, then man weighed his boards on a scale and wrote down the numbers.  He said if the weight stays the same over the course of one week, then the board is ready to use.  I have not seen that repeated anywhere else, so I'm looking for second opinions. Is that a reliable way to know if I can start using my lumber for projects?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should also mention that in my case, I'm talking about pretty small boards.  No more than 6 inches wide and a maximum of 30 inches in length, with varying thicknesses of 1 to 1.5 inches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13280" LastActivityDate="2023-11-29T19:57:39.550" Title="Is the weight of a board a good proxy for moisture content?" Tags="|wood-movement|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15004" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-25T18:59:18.637" Score="2" ViewCount="302" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've cut a worktops to size out of 18 and 36mm thick plywood (36 = 2x 18mm) and I'd like to sand the edges of these to a nice smooth finish of exposed plys. But with the thinness of the tops, I'm hesitant that I'm going to wobble and waver off, being inconsistent and create undulations in the final piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that in mind, I'm wondering if there is any way to sand at a perfect 90 degrees to the surface of my tops?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not against hand sanding, but in terms of power sanders I do also have a Bosch random orbit sander and a Black &amp;amp; Decker mouse sander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did find this example in my travels, I'm just not 100% sure my attempt to recreate would be truly 90 degrees with the offcuts I have available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/91viV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/91viVm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8149" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2023-12-15T19:37:13.197" LastActivityDate="2023-12-15T19:37:13.197" Title="Sanding edges of plywood straight and square" Tags="|sanding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3881" CreationDate="2023-11-25T20:11:59.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To adjust the depth of the cutter in wooden planes by a small amount, knock one end or other of the plane with a mallet.  The inertia of the plane iron relative to the wood will carry it up or down, depending which end you hit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14028" LastActivityDate="2023-11-25T20:11:59.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14936" CreationDate="2023-11-26T19:09:55.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ammonia Fuming (and perhaps brushing)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A partial answer may be fuming wood; the answer is partial because it is unclear if this method (or similar ones) were used before the mid-Victorian era. Ammonia fuming appears to be popular in the late Victorian era and some sources mention earlier brushing of ammonia, but with few details.  Sources &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodworkinghistory.com/glossary_ammonia_fuming.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt; &amp;amp; &lt;a href=&quot;https://artsandcraftshomes.com/interiors/fumed-oak-wood-stains&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood can be exposed to ammonia fumes which &lt;a href=&quot;https://canadianhomeworkshop.com/1546/tips-tools/techniques-tools-resources/restoration-workshop-darkening-wood&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;reacts with the wood's tannins&lt;/a&gt; to greatly darken the color. White oak was particularly used due to its high tannin content and such treated wood may be called fumed oak, fumigated oak, or smoked oak. This effect &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodandshop.com/how-to-fume-ammonia-fuming-experiment-cheap-ammonia/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;penetrates&lt;/a&gt; quite deep (&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/RkldSI2Havw?si=sUKZR429mURG-pk0&amp;amp;t=291&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1/8 inch or more&lt;/a&gt;) and can be very dark almost black. Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ammonia_fuming#/media/File:Fuming_chart.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;color scale.&lt;/a&gt;  It affects the &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworkersinstitute.com/reviews/2023/02/tudor-gothic-panel/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sapwood differently.&lt;/a&gt; Fuming could even applied to an &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ammonia_fuming&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;entire room by leaving bowls of ammonia within.&lt;/a&gt;  Purportedly, this effect would be noticed in barns where the ammonia in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.finewoodworking.com/1997/10/01/fuming-with-ammonia&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;animal urine&lt;/a&gt; had a similar effect unintentionally to their pens.  I wonder if the ammonia in tobacco products would have a similar effect over time, but haven't found a source supporting this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose there would also be general staining and grime over time from from pipes/cigars, fireplaces (coal and wood), and candles, but need some sources describing how powerful this effect could be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11844" LastActivityDate="2023-11-26T19:09:55.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15003" CreationDate="2023-11-27T03:53:54.713" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;one way to use weight of a board for measuring moisture content is to take a sample, weight it (accurately) put it in the oven at around 225, cook it for a while 2-3 hours? (depends on how green it is) then weigh it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will tell you what was the total moisture content of the wood.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;After weight/before weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By putting it in the oven like this it can reduce the moisture content to 0, it of course ruins the board for anything else, which is why you want a smaller sample, but it will tell you what the moisture content is. of the rest of the boards.  if it is stacked and stickered, you will probably need a couple samples from different areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;an alternate option is to buy a moisture meter, a decent one costs less than $200 and for anyone cutting their own lumber (or having it cut for them) a moisture meter is worth every penny.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2023-11-27T03:53:54.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15008" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15009" CreationDate="2023-11-28T11:49:30.087" Score="1" ViewCount="63" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last year in our renovation we had our builders convert this 19th century mahogany veneer sideboard into a vanity for our bathroom. Unfortunately they didn’t treat the top of the vanity to protect it, and now it’s starting to show some water damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’d like to rectify this and protect the piece from further damage. Based on some initial research I plan to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lightly sand the top of the vanity with my Bosch 100w electric sander and 180 grit sandpaper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply mahogany stain with a cloth (Rustins wood dye maybe?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paint with 3 coats of yacht varnish (Ronseal?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve pieced this together based on the scant internet research I can find for this particular use case. Does it seem right? Are there any steps in my plan that seem wrong or will risk permanent damage to this lovely piece? I’m worried about sanding all the way through the veneer but am hoping that with a light touch I can avoid this?&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ehb93.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ehb93.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GBqDK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GBqDK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14036" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-11-29T09:24:57.877" LastActivityDate="2023-11-29T09:24:57.877" Title="Yacht varnish to protect antique mahogany veneer? [bathroom vanity]" Tags="|sanding|water-protection|restoration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15008" CreationDate="2023-11-29T09:23:36.150" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general outline there's nothing wrong with your plan but you can (arguably should) change the specifics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lightly sand the top of the vanity with my Bosch 100w electric sander and 180 grit sandpaper&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one wants to &lt;em&gt;lightly&lt;/em&gt; sand any surface it's best to start with hand sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Power sanding, particularly if you're not very familiar with your sander and its characteristics or quirks, can easily go too far&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. This is especially critical when you're dealing with modern veneers (thin to very thin) but still always a concern when sanding an antique because you can't be sure how much, if any, sanding has previously been done during restoration, refinishing or &amp;quot;upcyling&amp;quot;, or any combination thereof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here, I presume you're only looking to scuff the surface to 'key' it for the application of the new varnish and for this you really want to be careful to sand &lt;em&gt;just enough&lt;/em&gt;, and that's a job for careful hand sanding (&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/13069/good-methods-for-scuffing-sanding-ready-built-furniture-with-contours-for-repain/13074#13074&quot;&gt;or rubbing down with other abrasives&lt;/a&gt;). Back the abrasive with a hard block for most or all of the work, rather than just your fingers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; the water rings between the two sinks may present an additional challenge. It is possible that they will require the complete removal of the existing finish. If so I recommend stripping or scraping and &lt;em&gt;highly&lt;/em&gt; recommend you don't attempt it by sanding,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apply mahogany stain with a cloth (Rustins wood dye maybe?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That may do exactly what you want but be sure to test the colour on an inconspicuous spot before committing to the whole top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last thing you want is to apply it liberally, wipe the excess away and then wait out the drying time only to discover that when you apply the first coat of finish the re-stained areas are too dark, too red, or what have you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Masking&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;There's a possibility the wood stain may stain the silicone caulk. I think the only way you'll avoid this possibility entirely (other than my final suggestion below) is by masking it off very conscientiously. If you do this you might as well do it before starting the entire process, since the masking will protect against inadvertent damage during sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember to wipe away &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; excess of whatever stain you eventually go with; the on-tin instructions may not emphasise this enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paint with 3 coats of yacht varnish (Ronseal?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could work fine, but yacht varnish is intended for (and should be specifically formulated for) exterior use. Obviously this includes lots of water exposure, but it's also to deal with the wide swings in temperature and everyday exposure to sunlight (well at least as much as we get in the British Isles), neither of which apply here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interior polyurethane varnish is tougher, more resistant to other damage like scuffs, scratches and wear/abrasion, and is extremely waterproof&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; when applied thoroughly and at sufficient thickness. I'd recommend for assurance of a perfect result that you apply it as wiping varnish. A number of previous Answers give more info on where and why you might want to use wiping varnish and how to make your own, but start &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5891/how-to-fix-very-light-scratches-in-polyurethane-finish&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative to oil-based poly, and especially since you've mentioned Rustin's products throughout, would be their famed Plastic Coating. I've read feedback from pros who have used it in a commercial setting (e.g. on countertops, bistro tables) and even there it has held up over many years — extrapolate from this to home use as &amp;quot;I'll never need to refinish this top&amp;quot; :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; any varnish will only provide its full waterproofing potential after sufficient time is given for it to cure. Unless your bathroom is unusually warm (and consistently so) take it as a given that you must treat the refinished wood with kid gloves for &lt;em&gt;at least&lt;/em&gt; two weeks &lt;em&gt;after the application of the &lt;strong&gt;last&lt;/strong&gt; coat&lt;/em&gt;. (I would personally suggest not using it at all for at bare minimum two days after the final coat.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;One last suggestion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You're going to absolutely hate this, but the ideal way to approach this project is to remove the sinks, do what's needed to the wood and then reinstall the sinks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This allows you to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;work unobstructed over the whole surface, esp. handy if you have to go back to bare wood;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;guarantees you won't damage or stain the silicone;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;produces a new finish layer that extends underneath the caulk (as it should ideally) to give greater peace of mind for the future;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if desired, allows you to spray on a finish instead of brushing or wiping it on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the downside:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it will cost more;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you will be without the sinks for longer, factoring in getting a plumber or builder in twice for the first and last stages.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Even when one is intimately familiar with a sander it's still all too easy to over-sand because there's no advance warning — once you see some telltale sign you've already sanded too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; The gold standard — drips don't have to be wiped up but can be left to evaporate with zero water penetration. However, remembering that this isn't Formica or melamine but finished wood, I highly recommend for longevity that you do wipe up water around the sinks fairly consistently; you don't have to be fanatical about it but being fairly consistent about it could extend the varnish life by a factor of two at least (to well over 10 years).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-11-29T09:23:36.150" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15010" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-29T19:40:32.957" Score="0" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waster&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;waster&lt;/a&gt;/longsword from a 1x2 in board. I thought I could do this by taking a simple plane, and gradually planing out the blade until I have the right profile. It doesn't have to be perfect - if I wanted that, I'd buy one of the machined wasters available on the commercial market - but I want it to look somewhat like the real thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I ensure the proportions are correct? For example, a consistent taper on the blade, consistent profile, lack of asymmetry/skew (from overplaning one side)? The tapers are often very slight, so it is hard to gauge by eye if it's within line or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this something that you just have to have an eye for, or is there a trick to it? My only idea is to compare it to some reference between every stroke of the plane, but that would make it take 5-10x longer. Planing is a lot faster when I find a good position and rhythm of just doing it over and over, so I don't want to break that flow too often to go back and take measurements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disregard the handle and crossguard of the sword for this. I can figure those out. I'm only asking about the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5443" LastActivityDate="2023-12-01T03:44:07.263" Title="Making a waster from wood board" Tags="|hand-planing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15003" CreationDate="2023-11-29T19:57:39.550" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is indeed true that wood will lose mass as you dry the moisture out. Conversely, water loss is the main component of any mass difference - there are not many other ways that wood can spontaneously loose mass through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that things like the resin coming out or insects attacking part of the wood could cause a weight reduction as well. However, realistically these shouldn't be too common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You quote someone who uses the &lt;em&gt;differential&lt;/em&gt; of mass as a proxy. In fact, the water weight percentage will decrease asymptotically, so the wood will never truly stop losing mass. But of course the differential will generally decay over time, so there will surely come a point where the decrease over unit time is too small for your measuring device and/or patience, and you can take that as the point it's &amp;quot;done&amp;quot;. This seems like a pretty reliable way, assuming your scale is sensitive enough that the initial mass loss is very obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get around low sensitivity by weighing multiple boards together, but then it will be harder to detect if one of the boards in a batch happened to not dry while the rest did. Analog scales, like balances will usually measure much more accurately than digital.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, keep in mind that for freshly cut wood used in construction (log houses) usually people dry it at least 1-2 years. So if you take measurements over a short time it might be hard to detect. Multiple weeks apart would be more sensitive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When wood &amp;quot;dries&amp;quot;, it does not actually dry completely. Rather, its moisture content approaches some equilibrium point that depends on ambient moisture (whether that is higher or lower). The rate at which it gains or loses moisture is proportional to how far away it is from the equilibrium (and temperature) which is where you get the asymptote. In a kiln, you have almost zero ambient moisture, and also high temperature, so you can get a lot of moisture out, but watch out for some of that coming back in a humid room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People concerned about moisture usually get moisture meters (they measure electrical properties of the wood). The local lumber yard might let you use theirs if you ask nicely (maybe you bring the boards to them so you don't have to borrow the meter). Another trick I heard is to leave the stock in whatever room/environment it will be used for a few weeks, before starting to work. That way your project will have been made of wood already be close to equilibrium, and won't move as much when you finish it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5443" LastActivityDate="2023-11-29T19:57:39.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15004" CreationDate="2023-11-29T20:03:08.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A stationary belt sander will usually have a table that can be set to the correct angle. Then you just ensure that the panel is flat on the table as you pass it against the belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can create an analogous jig by gluing sandpaper to the vertical face of a wood block, and creating a second raised surface for the panel to rest on as you slide it back and forth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A table saw, handheld circular saw or sliding miter saw would be an easier way of ensuring an angle. Then you just smooth the splinters with a light sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5443" LastActivityDate="2023-11-29T20:03:08.043" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15010" CreationDate="2023-12-01T03:44:07.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To the OP, please understand that we use comments a little more loosely than other stacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn’t assume you were using construction lumber or that your 1x2 would have a moisture problem. Given hand work, I would probably avoid hard maple etc and lean toward poplar or something like it. It all depends on how much work this thing will do when done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To mark the wide to a point curve (ie, the 1-1/2” face), find another smaller bit of wood that has a bit of spring to it and (probably with clamps holding the ends) mark it. I’d cut close to the line with a jigsaw to save time. You could plane one side to where you like it and then trace onto cardboard to get a template for the other side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To put an edge on, mark the centerlines on 4 sides and plane to those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2023-12-01T03:44:07.263" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13641" CreationDate="2023-12-01T10:58:29.257" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When buying a table saw, there are several key factors to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First, safety should be a top priority&lt;/strong&gt;. Look for features such as blade guards and a riving knife that help prevent accidents. Make sure the saw has a reliable and easy-to-use safety switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Accuracy is another important aspect&lt;/strong&gt;. Check for a stable and sturdy fence that locks securely in place, as well as a miter gauge that slides smoothly and is easy to read. Look for a table saw with good dust collection capabilities to help keep your workspace clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Usability is also a crucial consideration&lt;/strong&gt;. Look for a table saw that is user-friendly and has intuitive controls. Consider the size and weight of the saw, especially if you have limited space in your workshop or need to transport it frequently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When assessing the quality of the tool&lt;/strong&gt;, pay attention to the build materials and construction. Look for a well-built and durable table saw that will withstand heavy use. Read reviews from other users to get an idea of the tool's performance and reliability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, take the time to research and compare different table saw models, considering your specific needs and budget. It's a significant investment, so it's important to choose a table saw that meets your requirements and will serve you well for years to come.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14049" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2023-12-02T15:52:09.603" LastActivityDate="2023-12-02T15:52:09.603" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15018" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-01T16:50:21.317" Score="0" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a dining table from Mobili fiver with the following material specification:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mobilifiver.com/eu/media/akeneo_connector/media_files/S/c/Scheda_tecnica_materiali_ebe9.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.mobilifiver.com/eu/media/akeneo_connector/media_files/S/c/Scheda_tecnica_materiali_ebe9.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I protect it against water damage and regular wear and tear. I want some kind of clear/non-glossy finish. I thought polyurethane &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; work, since it does well for my other plywood furniture. But I am not sure. Any recommendations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14050" LastEditorUserId="14050" LastEditDate="2023-12-01T23:04:43.203" LastActivityDate="2023-12-02T07:49:54.807" Title="How to Protect melamine panel dining table from water and wear" Tags="|mdf|water-protection|physical-protection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15018" CreationDate="2023-12-02T07:49:54.807" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the Comment from @JanSpurny says, melamine IS the protection. If you think about it, if this is sold as tabletop material it should already be suitable for this application. As the PDF you linked to says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;Melamine surfaces are among the most resistant of those used in the furniture and furnishing industry.&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Melamine (or more accurately, melamine laminate) is rather famous for how tough it can be — amply demonstrated by the thick melamine-coated chipboard/particleboard now used so commonly for kitchen countertops. Assuming they're not abused, these can withstand &lt;em&gt;decades&lt;/em&gt; of hot plates, food and water spills, and regular cleaning (even multiple times a day) with almost no sign of wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Achilles's heel of this material generally is the joins between the face laminate and the edging material, so be careful along the arrises and the corners. Other than not cleaning using anything abrasive the only particular care I'd take personally would be to make sure I didn't leave liquids puddled right at the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-12-02T07:49:54.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4975" CreationDate="2023-12-04T18:34:36.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;CA glue is highly perishable, regardless of what you do. I think you've learned that one. This is why you often find it in smaller tubes (Loctite, for example, sell theirs in 4g sizes for the most part). Most folks are only using CA glue for those occasional jobs that need it, and so, by selling smaller bottles, they can make it easier for people to just chunk the hardened bottle and buy a new one. For what it's worth, I've kept most of their smaller CA bottles happy after opening for up to a year. I do that by keeping them inside, where HVAC keeps the moisture down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking to do this at scale, however, these smaller bottles are highly inefficient. What I would suggest you do is look for the craft sellers selling CA glue in 2 oz (or larger) bottles. I've recently taken up CA glue finishes to some of the wood turning I've been doing (with a decent polish, you get a good clear coat that makes the wood look amazing). I went with a Starbond bottle off Amazon and I was impressed that you didn't just get CA glue, but a whole kit so you don't wreck the bottle easily. They even threw in a sheet so you can help preserve the bottle longer. There are other craft glues like them out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would look for a kit 2oz bottle with a narrow nozzle. I've had better successes with these larger batches not going bad quickly. Find a glue consistency that works for you (terminology varies wildly here). I would try a middle-of-the road version if I were you, and work out from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cap whatever you get as well as possible, then stick it in the refrigerator when not being used. It will last longer when cold. &lt;strong&gt;Do not freeze it&lt;/strong&gt;. It should last a decent amount of time with care. I would not bank on any opened bottle lasting more than a year, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7360" LastEditorUserId="7360" LastEditDate="2023-12-04T19:53:23.163" LastActivityDate="2023-12-04T19:53:23.163" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15023" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-06T03:00:07.717" Score="0" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;What am i doing wrong? Each board I use the jointer on leaves them not even. They are 12w x 1t and 50 inches long. Can they be fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sincerely,&#xA;Ann&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14067" LastEditorUserId="503" LastEditDate="2023-12-06T13:33:24.033" LastActivityDate="2023-12-15T02:30:45.303" Title="What am i doing wrong? Each board I use the jointer on leaves them not even. P" Tags="|jointer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2023-12-15T15:56:56.477" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15024" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-07T01:51:00.197" Score="3" ViewCount="740" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a piece of thin redwood that I am turning into a clock face for a Christmas present.  I need to be able to drill a hole in the center.  &lt;em&gt;But&lt;/em&gt; the wood is not good circle.  It's circular..ish.  But it's not a circle.  The diameter ranges between 14 1/4 inches to 14 and 1/8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried using the intersection of the longest distances, but I keep getting different results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I even tried balancing it on a nail (from the unfininshed back) and marking the tip.  That got me a hole that was way off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried using a square, but the intersections vary with every attempt.  I'm thinking of just guesstimating after getting varying results.  Is there a better way to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14072" LastEditorUserId="370" LastEditDate="2023-12-19T19:24:16.980" LastActivityDate="2023-12-19T19:24:16.980" Title="How can I find the center of an imperfect circle for a clock face?" Tags="|wood|drill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15025" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-07T04:57:40.183" Score="-1" ViewCount="376" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am open to all your thoughts and suggestions!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to build a wooden box that looks like this (measurements are in inches):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1xxS7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1xxS7.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is to have a 5 boards: floor, ceiling, back, and two walls that protrude 3 inches past the ceiling. There will be no front, so that whatever I keep inside the box will be visible at all times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The numbers I included are idealized numbers. They do not take into account the thickness of the wood. When I take that into account I will need to increase the height of the right, left and back panels to accommodate that - and just make sure to space the top and bottom boards the proper distance apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: (updated to be a single question)&#xA;I am planning on using wood that is somewhere between 1/4 - 1/2 inch thick. What is the best way to fasten these pieces of wood together?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10230" LastEditorUserId="10230" LastEditDate="2023-12-07T12:58:59.243" LastActivityDate="2023-12-11T15:34:32.480" Title="How to build this wooden box" Tags="|wood|technique|screws|nails|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15024" CreationDate="2023-12-07T09:44:36.040" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried using the intersection of the longest distances, but I keep getting different results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is normal, and not a problem. What tends to happen when you are trying to find the approximate centre of an uneven shape is that crossing lines taken from various points on the circumference, or edges, yield a small clear area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QYHOD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QYHOD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Approximate centre&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you get to this stage you can just eyeball the 'centre' quite accurately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if your circular piece of wood were much more uneven than it is you can use this technique to get an acceptable result since it's so easy to guestimate the centre of this much smaller shape left by the marking out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Paper circle&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If you'd prefer a different methodology so you can 'weight' the circle within the uneven shape visually, simply draw a 14&amp;quot; circle&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; on a piece of paper or card stock, cut the circle out with scissors, place on your redwood and move it around until you like how it looks. Make a mark through the central hole and you're done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; If you have no compass large enough, just make yourself a rudimentary beam compass from a strip of thin wood (even stiff card will do). Drill/poke two holes in your beam 14&amp;quot; apart, pin it to the paper through one hole using anything suitable, push a pen tip or pencil through the second hole and rotate. You can use this or a &amp;quot;string compass&amp;quot; to draw circles of any diameter you'll ever require.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-12-07T09:44:36.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15025" CreationDate="2023-12-07T15:00:22.333" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a beginner using wood &amp;lt; 1/2&amp;quot; thick, I'd recommend glue as the appropriate method of fastening this project together. A glued joint will end up being &lt;em&gt;significantly&lt;/em&gt; stronger than the very thin wood you're going to use for this, so any failures will not be in the joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could probably nail it together with very fine tacks, but with minimal, beginner skills, you could easily drive the nail through the face of the board you're nailing into and/or split something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will echo Graphus' comments about doing some basic reading/watching to learn more. A couple of my personal favorites, available on public TV (in the US) are &lt;em&gt;The New Yankee Workshop&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;The Woodwright's Shop&lt;/em&gt;. The former will teach you a lot about quality construction using power tools, and the latter the same but with traditional hand tools. You'll end up using both in your woodworking journey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a bazillion content creators on YouTube. Be cautioned: they're not all good. Some will teach you some &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; bad/dangerous habits. Use common sense!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2023-12-07T15:00:22.333" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13351" CreationDate="2023-12-07T22:55:37.867" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally it's really hard to match pine with oak and you cannot stain lvp which is what the photo looks like is 2 different pieces of lvp&#xA;To give pine a gray look I think you can wipe it in vinegar and wait a few minutes to soak in and repeat. Might have to wait few days for color to fully show read up on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14078" LastActivityDate="2023-12-07T22:55:37.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15029" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-07T23:00:52.487" Score="0" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know, 150 was not the correct grit to sand poly with.  I listened to someone i shouldn't have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I stained my Walnut Bar, and then put on my first coat of poly.  It looked lovely.  Then I sanded....and now it looks hideous.  SO many scratches.  This has never happened to me before!  How can i get the scratches out? Do I need to slowly increase the grit?  220 / 350 / 400 etc ...Am i going to have to sand the entire thing and stain it again??? Ahhhhhhh&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a little test corner of a 2nd layer of poly, and obviously the scratches are still there, less so - but in the wrong light, its glaring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14079" LastEditorUserId="14079" LastEditDate="2023-12-07T23:06:28.743" LastActivityDate="2023-12-07T23:06:28.743" Title="Sanding between coats of Poly : Help! I scratched the first surface of poly with 150 grit" Tags="|sanding|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15031" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15032" CreationDate="2023-12-08T03:14:43.883" Score="0" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've bought a pair of bookcases that don't have feet. They will stand in front of a wall that has hydronic baseboard. I don't want to completely block off the baseboard. My plan is to have the bookcases stand on feet that I make from wooden blocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was planning to just set the bookcases on the blocks without any glue or any top-plate + hanger bolts. I am expecting gravity to hold everything in place, but will this be unstable or dangerous?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14081" LastActivityDate="2023-12-08T07:21:37.913" Title="Freestanding feet for a bookcase" Tags="|furniture|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15031" CreationDate="2023-12-08T07:21:37.913" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am expecting gravity to hold everything in place&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under normal circumstances hat's a reasonable expectation, even before the bookcase is filled with books. In basic principle this is little different to vase stands, which can be used under even really big and/or really expensive vases...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but will this be unstable or dangerous?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stability is a matter for the accuracy of the feet you make and how they sit on the floor. Do this right and stability is guaranteed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for dangerous, this is sort of a judgement call. Obviously it would be better if the feet were fixed so the bookcase above couldn't move in relation to them, in the event of a hard knock for example, but realistically how likely is this given the location of the bookcases? And once weighted with books the amount of force needed to shift them (in the only directions they &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; move) would have to be considerable, while this is by no means impossible be realistic about how possible/likely that is in &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If in your home there are rambunctious kids, or large pets (a big dog, small pony, fat pig, giant murder kitty), you might want to reconsider the plan. Which leads to.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; fix the feet in place??&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;From the description I don't see any reason why these feet can't be fixed in place. If the hesitation is based on the permanence of the installation you could just lightly screw them into place from the underside, the screws well sunk under the surface of the foot in deep countersinks or shallow counterbores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-12-08T07:21:37.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15034" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15044" CreationDate="2023-12-08T18:51:36.410" Score="4" ViewCount="153" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I've been at the craft for decades, and I've been stumped about this ever since I came across this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few years back, I saw a Facebook Marketplace ad for exotic lumber for sale, and the prices being listed were... surreal. So I went. It turned out that the place was a woodworking school-cum-shared-workplace. Like a Hammerspace meets a Community College. The company that owned the building they were in had changed hands and they were being evicted due to liability concerns. As such, they were firesaling their lumber and sheet goods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These guys had like 18 table saws, 3 24+&amp;quot; planers, a half dozen door-width drum sanders, more dust collection than you can imagine... In short: industrial equipment. LOTS of it. Multiple guilds' worth. And they were (justifiably) PANICKING. I felt terrible. So I volunteered to help. I spent the weekend helping them pallet and move their tools and equipment to their temp storage until they could secure a new facility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the weekend, they made a gift to me of about three quarters of a ton of lumber. Mostly exotics, some sheet goods, etc. I've used much of it by now, but a few months ago, as I was digging through one of the short-length bins, I stumbled onto some plywood that I now recalled them giving me, but before then I'd never seen before. It's super-high-grade ply, maybe not Baltic Birch (the plies aren't that fine), but ApplePly quality at least - certainly no voids, knots, or fills - except the plies run perpendicular to the face. As if someone stacked and bonded hundred upon hundreds of plies together, then used what woulda had to have been a mill-sized bandsaw to cut it into 2&amp;quot; thick sheets. With the plies running 90 degrees to the way you'd expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be clear, here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E3CIZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E3CIZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No: it was not just several sheets glued up. There's no surface veneer in between. It's also durable as hell. Not like you'd expect: it's abnormally-heavy. It almost feels stabilized, but it's not; it feels like plywood under table saw or handsaw. This was MANUFACTURED this way; I'm categorically-certain. But I'll be damned if I know by WHOM or WHY. I have several pieces of this stuff, and I haven't the foggiest idea A: what it's FOR, and B: what it IS/IS CALLED. Has anyone else ever seen this stuff?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;: Graphus (in the comments below, ~but who &lt;em&gt;hasn't actually created an answer I can choose as Best&lt;/em&gt; hint, hint)~ (&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE II&lt;/strong&gt; Thank you Graphus), discovered &lt;a href=&quot;https://plexwood.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Plexwood&lt;/a&gt;, which, if it's NOT the same stuff, it's so close as it makes no nevermind. They've also some drop-dead gorgeous stuff on offer... dear reader: treat yourself. Whether you like plywood as a media or not... you GOTTA admit...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8C4dN.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8C4dN.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...it's hard to argue with how hot some of this stuff is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pxdb2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pxdb2.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks a million Graphus! Post and answer and I'll credit you in a hot second!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9940" LastEditorUserId="9940" LastEditDate="2023-12-31T23:39:17.713" LastActivityDate="2023-12-31T23:39:17.713" Title="Can anyone identify this variety of plywood?" Tags="|wood|plywood|lumber|laminating|wood-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15035" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-09T00:49:47.903" Score="0" ViewCount="53" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a bed frame out of cedar and will be making matching night stands. I love the smell of cedar and want to preserve it for as long as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to finish these pieces, protecting from water marks etc, without reducing the natural cedar smell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8107" LastActivityDate="2024-01-12T08:07:18.277" Title="Recommendations on finishing cedar" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15036" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-09T05:33:56.263" Score="0" ViewCount="145" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a wood working project, I'd like to build a custom garden trellis. Trellis design looks roughly like this (sketch):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jzFpt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jzFpt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got all the outer dimensions, thickness of the wood, spacing between the diagonal pieces, angles, etc. For the diagonal sections, the idea is to pre-cut them all to the right length, and then to assemble the frame (unless you've got a better suggestion).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I don't have is the lengths of the diagonal sections. I could use some good old-fashioned calculus to calculate the lengths of the sections, but I was wondering how you would do it? Is there for instance a computer-aided design program that could automatically compute the lengths of the diagonal sections? Or what if I'd like to try out some alternative designs, e.g. different outer dimensions while keeping the inner lattice frame the same pattern. Is there a way to do this using software? Doing this by hand and re-calculating the lengths would be rather tedious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what a store-bought trellis looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bKLdH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bKLdH.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13016" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2023-12-11T07:57:42.133" LastActivityDate="2023-12-11T07:57:42.133" Title="Garden trellis design, tips on the lattice" Tags="|design|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15038" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-10T21:35:38.457" Score="0" ViewCount="38" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm modifying an existing pine bed frame to make it into a high bed.  Three corners will be bolted to the walls and I intend to replace the fourth leg with a long piece of timber.  I have the opportunity to get some 4&amp;quot; green peeled birch poles about the right size.  I like how they look, and the price is great, but I'm wondering if it's possible to sensibly join the birch to the pine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I was using dried timber I'd just screw through the leg into the side rail and into the headboard with something like M8 coach screws (which is how the existing legs are attached).  Will this work with the green birch?  Is it possible to make this joint at all?  I've never worked with green wood before. I know the birch will shrink radially, but I could just tighten the screws regularly to account for this.  I'd be more worried about cracking from the screw holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(As you have probably picked up, this is not fine cabinet making here - rustic and quirky is the name of the game)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14001" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2023-12-10T22:40:49.903" LastActivityDate="2023-12-10T22:40:49.903" Title="How to join green wood to kiln dried wood, if possible" Tags="|fasteners|green-wood|joints|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15025" CreationDate="2023-12-11T15:34:32.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would attempt this in one of two ways given your lack of experience, and likely lack of tools. However, my solutions may require you to purchase a couple of inexpensive items. I would not use 1/4'' wood. Use 1/2'' minimum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First Solution - Screws &amp;amp; Glue&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Simply use screws and wood glue to join the pieces together. For the bottom piece, first apply wood glue to the surfaces that will come into contact with each other. Next, align with the front and back faces of the sides and use a clamp to hold the pieces together then add a few screws to secure the piece. Next, mark 3.25'' down on the outer surface of each side. This is where the screws will go. Mark 3'' down on the inside of the sides and this is where the upper edge of the ceiling will be placed. Place glue on the edges of the ceiling that will come into contact with the sides. Now, align the ceiling with inside marks and using a clamp hold the ceiling in place. Using the line drawn on the outsides of the box drill a few pilot holes for the screws. Now drill the screws into those holes. Allow the glue to dry for 1-2 hours before removing the clamps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Second Solution - Pucket Screws&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;This solution requires a a pocket screw jig like a Kregg Pocket Screw jig. The advantage of this is you can hide the screws if you want a cleaner look with no, or minimal, screws. If you are interested in this let me know and I'll write more. But the jig will cost a little bit as well as the clamps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14091" LastActivityDate="2023-12-11T15:34:32.480" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15042" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15045" CreationDate="2023-12-13T04:38:43.793" Score="4" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm seeking advice on the best way to go about building a full scale replica of the Immovable Ladder&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Status_Quo_(Jerusalem_and_Bethlehem)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt; [wikipedia]&lt;/a&gt;, a late 17th/early 18th century wooden ladder that rests against a second story window at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem and has been in place since at least 1728, unmoved since then due to the 1757 Status Quo decree from the Ottomans which stated that nothing can be moved or altered at the Church without agreement from all six Christian sects which co-govern the space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No real reason for the build, I just need a ~7 foot ladder and figured why spent $150 on a Werner when I can have a ladder that serves as a constant reminder of a schism dividing one of the world's major religions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ladder is in various places described as &amp;quot;simple&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;about 7 feet tall&amp;quot;, and &amp;quot;made of Lebanese cedar&amp;quot;, though I can't substantiate any of this myself. Below, I've posted four of the most clear photos I can find online, as well as a 1728 engraving by Franciscan Monk Elzear Horn, which represents the earliest known representation of the ladder in it's current location. Following the photos is a description of my current plan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8YOjF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8YOjF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ladder from the front&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v6aKU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v6aKU.png&quot; alt=&quot;ladder close up&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CdLqj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CdLqj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ladder from below&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k8lZ4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k8lZ4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ladder from above&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uqhIR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uqhIR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;1728 engraving&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, I converted a picture of the ladder into a vector image to measure its angles and relative dimensions. It leans against the wall at a ~15 degree angle, which I understand is still considered best practice. A leaning height of 7 feet yields an acceptable rung spacing of ~14&amp;quot;, so whoever made this ladder definitely wasn't behind on their OSHA continuing ed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to get two 8 foot cedar 2x4s for the side rails, which I will cut down to 7'3&amp;quot; so that the finished height of the ladder when leaning is 7 feet tall. I'll trim the top and bottom at angles so that the ladder rests stably at a 15 degree angle from the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, I'll make five dado cuts into each 2x4 with a mitre saw for the rungs/steps, cutting about 60% deep into the wood. I can't tell from the photos if the notches which hold the steps in place go all the way through the width of the side rails; I'm inclined to stop the cut short about 1/2&amp;quot; of the full width of the board. I'll use 2x6 cedar for the steps, cut down to protrude ever so slightly from the front of the side rails and knocked into place with a wooden mallet. The second photo above seems to indicate that there are about 3 nails hammered through the side rails to keep each step in place. I'll sand the front edges of the steps and that should do it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very curious if anyone has any guidance or feedback...some things I'm wondering include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Securing the steps: is there a best practice for how deep to cut the notch into the 2x4? Assuming a nice tight fit for each step, will three 16d nails on both side of each of the 5 steps suffice to keep the ladder sturdy?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there anything else you can determine from the photos that can help me make the replica more precise?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14099" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2023-12-13T18:02:03.487" LastActivityDate="2023-12-14T10:20:34.560" Title="Guidance on building a ladder, but not just any ladder" Tags="|wood|technique|design|wood-selection|cutting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1112" CreationDate="2023-12-13T14:18:46.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use my table saw to cut circles. I've never had a kickback. I've never had burning from friction. I've never had stalls. I still have 10 fingers. It's not fast, but it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I make straight cuts until the piece is &lt;em&gt;mostly&lt;/em&gt; round(ish), blade-width or less remaining to cut off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I only raise the blade maybe 1/8&amp;quot; higher than the wood thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I do not turn the piece if it will cause the blade to bind (too much material left).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I clamp the sled down before I start turning the workpiece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I always come out with a near-perfect circle with smooth edges. WAY better than with a jig saw, and less sanding when finished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15101" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2023-12-13T18:03:11.083" LastActivityDate="2023-12-13T18:03:11.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15034" CreationDate="2023-12-14T08:55:17.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may not be exactly what you have there but &lt;a href=&quot;https://plexwood.com/uk/products/solid&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Plexwood&lt;/a&gt; is the closest thing I could locate, after trying many different search options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7qCue.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7qCue.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Plexwood sample grid&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I say the closest, but actually it was the &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; thing I could find that seemed to fit the bill; I find this surprising given the obvious appeal of the product, but it may be reflective of the difficulty of manufacture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than scant historical references to something called V-ply back in its day (which may or may not have been quite like this) I was completely unable to locate anything else remotely similar, other than user-made &amp;quot;patterned plywood&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-12-14T08:55:17.427" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15042" CreationDate="2023-12-14T10:20:34.560" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Securing the steps: is there a best practice for how deep to cut the notch into the 2x4?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An oft-used rule of thumb for cutting these grooves (housing joints) is 1/3 of the original material. This is by no means universal however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything else you can determine from the photos that can help me make the replica more precise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original ladder appears to have had the housings cut far deeper than 1/3, but this may be illusory due to nosings on each tread. If present these may overlap the front of the uprights, hiding the true depth of the groove behind. It's impossible to know either way from available photos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are overlapping nosings they may further hide that the ladder was built using dovetail housings (&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5395/what-is-the-name-of-this-joint/5401#5401&quot;&gt;AKA sliding dovetails&lt;/a&gt;). Although this is highly speculative it could account for it still being in one piece if it's had zero intervention since 1757! [Regardless if this is a feature of the original, I would highly recommend it if you can swing it since it will add an untold amount of strength.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming a nice tight fit for each step, will three 16d nails on both side of each of the 5 steps suffice to keep the ladder sturdy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the type of thing that should be determined empirically — test for your application with your wood, your housing depth, your glue (if any), and most importantly &lt;em&gt;your nails&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; and nailing technique&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where safety is paramount — and it most assuredly is here — I would caution not to listen to any one source, no matter how (apparently) authoritative, such as an experienced carpenter who would have decades of practical experience and presumably Knows His Stuff&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Currently available nails come in numerous styles, with differences in the shaft diameter, head size, additional holding features, as well as a range of surface finishes/coatings, so there's huge variation possible here. And then there are cut nails, which may be superior in holding power to anything modern (expect their weather durability to be among the lowest however). Note that if you go with cut nails, pre-drill if building in any harder hardwood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Most people nails things in basically perpendicular to the surface which is fine for many applications, but hold can be &lt;em&gt;significantly&lt;/em&gt; improved by dovetailing some or all of the nails. Here I would at minimum nail like this / | \&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; One of the fundamental problems with expert advice is that &lt;em&gt;experts can disagree on things&lt;/em&gt;, in fact, as the Internet has allowed us to see more clearly than ever before, they &lt;em&gt;frequently&lt;/em&gt; do. Ergo the advice of any one of them cannot be taken as gospel....... no matter how much they want to give that impression ^_^&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-12-14T10:20:34.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15046" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-14T20:15:28.737" Score="0" ViewCount="111" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to make a small wall mounted cabinet for an audio receiver that I would like to be of specific dimensions. Can I use finish grade 3/4&amp;quot; plywood but join it at the edge using trim screws? I do not have the tools to do joinery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="328" LastActivityDate="2023-12-15T09:28:47.637" Title="Box with 3/4&quot; plywood with screws not joined" Tags="|joinery|plywood|cabinetry|boxes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15023" CreationDate="2023-12-15T02:30:45.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you're having trouble getting even results with a jointer, there are several potential issues that could be at play.  Here are some common problems and their solutions that you might want to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Improper Feeding:&lt;/strong&gt; Make sure that you are feeding the boards evenly and at a consistent speed.  If the board is fed unevenly, it can result in an uneven cut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Machine Setup:&lt;/strong&gt; The jointer itself may not be set up properly.  Ensure that the knives are set at the correct height and are parallel to the outfeed table.  The tables should be flat and parallel to each other.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Knife Wear:&lt;/strong&gt; If the knives are dull or have uneven wear, they may not cut evenly.  Sharpen or replace the knives as needed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Table Cleanliness:&lt;/strong&gt; Dirt or debris on the tables can cause the wood to slip, leading to an uneven cut.  Keep the tables clean and ensure they are free of dust and other particles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wood Moisture:&lt;/strong&gt; If the wood is too dry or too wet, it can affect the jointing process.  Wood should have a moisture content of around 8-10% for best results.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Poor Support:&lt;/strong&gt; Ensure that the board is well supported during the jointing process.  This may involve using push sticks or other supports to keep the board flat and steady against the table.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Material Defects:&lt;/strong&gt; The boards themselves may have defects such as warping, cupping, or bowing, which can make it difficult to achieve an even cut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your boards are not coming out even after going through the jointer, it's important to identify the cause of the issue and address it.  In some cases, the boards may be too cupped or bowed to be fixed with the jointer alone.  You may need to use a planer to flatten the boards first, and then use the jointer to edge them.  If the boards are cupped, you might also try using a hand plane to plane the concave side to make it flat before running them through the jointer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15105" LastActivityDate="2023-12-15T02:30:45.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15046" CreationDate="2023-12-15T09:28:47.637" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes of course you can join using screws only if desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as you'd see if you look at plywood building advice going way back ;-) adding glue is frequently advised for increasing strength in plywood projects that will be put together with nails or screws. Although not absolutely necessary this is recommend since the hold of screws into the edges of ply is sometimes questionable. If you do add glue refresh the surfaces to be jointed with gentle hand sanding for &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/4151/what-do-i-need-to-do-to-prepare-wood-for-gluing&quot;&gt;this reason&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, to maximise the potential hold of screws in plywood remember &amp;quot;the need for pilot holes&amp;quot;. It's often expressed this way but actually there are three parts to a correctly drilled hole for any screw that isn't surface-mounted:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;countersink (or counterbore), to sink the head flush with or below the surface;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;clearance hole, so there is no engagement of the threads in the first piece;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pilot hole to maximise the hold of the screw in the second piece while preventing splitting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're drilling the clearance and pilot holes separately as I do this is easily arranged since you'll just use two sizes of drill bit; if you want to use a combination bit however choose wisely so that the pilot isn't oversized for the screws you're using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bonus, 'faux' joinery&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Although the basic technique goes back many years (to before the days of Charles Hayward and &lt;strong&gt;The Woodworker&lt;/strong&gt;, who may have popularised the idea), it has come into its own in the modern era with the more widespread use of plywood and other manmade boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Peter Millard did an excellent little video a few months ago showing how to form five of the major woodworking joints by building up using thinner ply. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1nWpH6EyL4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;I Make 5 Fake Plywood Joints [video 540]&lt;/a&gt; on YouTube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-12-15T09:28:47.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15049" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-16T03:13:42.467" Score="1" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;Local lumber yard in Oregon is selling this jointer. I can not find any information on this jointer nor “Oregon Pacific” as a whole for the life of me. Does anyone have any information on either? Much appreciated! &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7s7ka.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7s7ka.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15106" LastActivityDate="2023-12-16T03:13:42.467" Title="Oregon Pacific Jointer" Tags="|jointer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13242" CreationDate="2023-12-18T18:19:57.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure about using motor oil for a garbage bin?  I'm having a hard time getting my head wrapped around this?  Is it like an enclosure around a dumpster to keep animals out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless a mix of used motor oil and diesel fuel (I can't remember the ratio I was actually trying to find that when I stumbled across this post.) I think it was 2 parts diesel to 5 used oil, I remember I tried 50/50 first and the uptake wasn't consistent so it's not 50/50.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway old oil &amp;amp; diesel are the best solution I've found in two specific instances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is if you are cementing untreated beams into the ground.  The stuff is amazing.  I have a large shed/hangar for my ultralight where I framed out the doors and support beams from regular old Douglas Fir studs soaked in the stuff for a couple days and it has over the past 15 years held up to scorching temperatures 120F+, monsoon storms, at least 2 microbursts, and took it all like a champ.  I've had the roof come all the way off once and partway off another time.  If there were ever a tornado or hurricane here (very unlikely in AZ) it'd be a tossup which I'd try riding it out in the shed or the house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is where you are looking for insect resistance.  Ants and termites give it a wide berth, and I've seen scorpions literally everywhere else on the property besides in and around that shed. Yes that includes in the house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless your use case involves one of those two scenarios you're probably better off with another product.  Oh yeah and if you do ever use this stuff make darn sure you wash your hands with Dawn dish soap before eating anything.  I made myself violently ill twice building that shed before I caught on to what happened to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15113" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2023-12-19T19:19:54.177" LastActivityDate="2023-12-19T19:19:54.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15052" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-19T16:05:32.390" Score="0" ViewCount="112" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to build a sawhorse and see Home Depot has those cheap “whitewood” 2x4’s. Would it be a bad idea to build a sawhorse with this wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here’s the wood &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/p/2-in-x-4-in-x-8-ft-Prime-Stud-058449/312528776&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.homedepot.com/p/2-in-x-4-in-x-8-ft-Prime-Stud-058449/312528776&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They list the species as “Spruce/Pine/Fir.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15114" LastEditorUserId="15114" LastEditDate="2023-12-19T16:56:32.397" LastActivityDate="2023-12-20T14:17:12.870" Title="What are the downsides of using Home Depot whitewood (spruce/pine/fir) for a sawhorse?" Tags="|wood|wood-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15052" CreationDate="2023-12-19T19:28:47.017" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest downside is warped wood. However, if you select carefully (I've been known to paw through 1/2 a stack of lumber looking for straight 2x4s), you shouldn't have too much issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, these are saw horses. They're designed for a rough life and to take all sorts of abuse, they're not designed to be fine furniture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you discover that they really didn't last as long as you'd like, well, they were really cheap to make, and you've got a nice bit of wood for the fire pit on the next crisp fall evening. And, you'll know that you need to get some better quality wood for your next set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, you might discover that, for the price, they lasted long enough and you might make the next set exactly the same as this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2023-12-20T14:17:12.870" LastActivityDate="2023-12-20T14:17:12.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11179" CreationDate="2023-12-23T23:20:11.763" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We purchased the Arctic Clear (Purity Glacier) to treat 150 year old barn board for our kitchen cupboards; based on the fact Sansin claims it does not change color. I was surprised that it met what it claimed. We did not lose the silver grey patina. Sealing the wood darkens it minimally, but definitely no yellowing or change of color. Very happy with the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15121" LastActivityDate="2023-12-23T23:20:11.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15057" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-26T23:57:18.133" Score="0" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assembling shelving units as shown in the provided image, where I need to secure the vertical boards to the horizontal ones. My plan is to use three screws at both the top and bottom ends of each vertical piece to accomplish this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering the wood is 3/4&amp;quot; thick sapele, would screws that are 1-1/4&amp;quot; in length be sufficient for a strong connection without risking them poking through the opposite side of the vertical pieces? I'm a bit nervous that I might drill at a slight angle and end up driving a screw through the side of one of the uprights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Here's a link to the article where these shelves are found: &lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.lostartpress.com/2021/07/05/covington-mechanical-library-shelves/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://blog.lostartpress.com/2021/07/05/covington-mechanical-library-shelves/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aJmiu.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aJmiu.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="5161" LastEditDate="2023-12-27T00:55:07.097" LastActivityDate="2023-12-27T03:21:53.603" Title="What size screws should I use to fasten these shelves together?" Tags="|screws|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15057" CreationDate="2023-12-27T03:21:53.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd use at least 1-1/2&amp;quot; and 2&amp;quot; would seem more natural. The forces acting on the screw aren't that substantial as long as you have it extremely well anchored to the wall using L brackets. (&amp;quot;Several L brackets&amp;quot; as understood by me, is nowhere near enough. I'd have at least 16 -- two per shelf, and you could happily go to 24. &amp;quot;Many&amp;quot; was the phrase in the original article.) If you haven't anchored it to the wall properly, no amount or length of screw will save you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2023-12-27T03:21:53.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15062" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-29T14:26:00.700" Score="1" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like a silly question, I know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wanting to join 2 bookcases together but in a way in which I can't see the screws. I know I can countersink, fill and paint over, but I'm looking to minimise the amount of filling I'll have to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know headless pins are a thing for finish nailing, so I'm wondering if there are scress that have smaller than usual heads for a similar purpose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8149" LastActivityDate="2023-12-30T08:22:08.453" Title="Do 'headless' screws exist?" Tags="|screws|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15062" CreationDate="2023-12-30T08:22:08.453" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add to what @AloysiusDefenestrate says above in a Comment, look at &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; trim-head screws. Trim-head screws have coincidentally come up here twice recently, and while some have very small heads screws with this name on the pack do vary quite a bit as to head size. The most recent mention highlighted that some have heads barely different to some normal screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However you could get no head at all if you wanted, &lt;em&gt;but you don't want to&lt;/em&gt; — the hold of screws is primarily based on the head and the threading working together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's how screws work as clamps, the hold of the thread in the second piece and the pressure exerted by the head in the first. Take out the latter and you get no clamping force between them, so all you end up with is a fancy alignment aid&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I can countersink, fill and paint over&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do better than that. Welcome to the world of counter&lt;em&gt;bores&lt;/em&gt; and wood plugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're sinking the screw heads below the surface such that filler is an option you're already creating a counterbore:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kWciC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kWciC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Counterbore vs. countersink&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All you need to do is add wooden plugs to the equation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you can plug the holes with sections of dowel it's better to use face-grain plugs and they make plug cutters precisely for this purpose. The best kind make plugs with a slight taper, which ensure a snug fit in the counterbores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to hiding the location of the holes better (if desired) when not painting, face-grain plugs are easier to make flush (because it's not end grain that's exposed but more face grain like the surrounding wood). Also in the long term they tend to stay hidden under paint better than both end-grain plugs or filler (any type&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;), which tend to telegraph their location over time&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; due to differences in shrinkage and expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; For that you could simply use dowels, which are easier/faster to drill for and much faster to install.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; According to a pro I trust, his observations over his career are that &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; fillers eventually become not flush with the surrounding wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2023-12-30T08:22:08.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15064" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-02T00:28:59.493" Score="0" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have counter-height dining set. It looks very good and works generally well, but it's difficult to move the chairs in after sitting on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So we're considering to convert this back into a regular height dining set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The table is not an issue - the four legs can be cut down simply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But we're concerned about the chairs - particularly the fact that the chairs have a couple of cross-bars (one in back, and one in front).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one is front is lower (currently to let your feet rest on it). But once we reduce the height of the chair, this cross-bar will be about an inch up from the ground - this may interfere with leg movement while someone is sitting down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So we're thinking of also removing this cross-bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is - will removing the cross-bar make the chair unstable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though there will still be a cross bar in the back of the chair (and there are similar bars on the sides).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding a photo as suggested by others:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4jJ2K.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4jJ2K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15146" LastEditorUserId="15146" LastEditDate="2024-01-05T01:37:36.380" LastActivityDate="2024-01-05T01:37:36.380" Title="Crossbars on a dining chair" Tags="|wood-repair|safety|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15065" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-02T15:10:23.427" Score="0" ViewCount="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built a wooden container to hold all my essential oils. I’m having trouble figuring out what type of finish I should apply. I want one that has resistance in case anything spills. So a finish resistant to oil and alcohol would be best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I do an oil finish and spray it with polyurethane? Or go straight to a poly wipe-on? Or is there a better finish that has a higher oil/alcohol resistance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15147" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2024-01-05T07:54:13.290" LastActivityDate="2024-01-05T07:54:13.290" Title="Finish choice for my wooden essential-oil container" Tags="|finishing|finish-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15065" CreationDate="2024-01-03T08:36:15.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I do an oil finish and spray it with polyurethane ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in a number of previous Answers, often there is no benefit to oiling wood prior to adding poly. Where you may want to do this is to maximise colour contrast/figure in the wood but oil-based varnishes are already quite good at doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or go straight to a poly wipe on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of modern finish types that tout oil and alcohol resistance that you could roll the dice on, but for maximum resistance you really need a film finish. And for a number of reasons wiping on poly is what I would have recommended anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to being relatively inexpensive and easy to get, oil-based polyurethane varnish is the easiest highly protective finish to apply to a high standard (irrespective of the shapes involved). See the images in &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5891/how-to-fix-very-light-scratches-in-polyurethane-finish/5893#5893&quot;&gt;this previous Answer&lt;/a&gt; on making it yourself. Note you don't have to wipe it on if you'd prefer not to, what makes the technique so forgiving is not wiping it on, but &lt;em&gt;wiping off the excess&lt;/em&gt;. You can wipe off some, most or all of the excess as per your preference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil-based poly comes with some attendant solvent odour (there's some in the formula already, when making a commercial wiping varnish they simply add more spirits.... and overcharge for it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought someone who is into essential oils might appreciate a little on reducing the associated smells, especially since you're likely to be working indoors given the season.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A note on reducing solvent odour&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If you want to reduce the smell of the thinned varnish, dilute it with &amp;quot;OMS&amp;quot; (odourless mineral spirits) or low-odour mineral spirits. The products in this category vary in just how &amp;quot;odourless&amp;quot; they are. Expect to pay more for any that have virtually no odour, but even a basic type should not have any offensive smell of the mineral spirits type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2024-01-03T08:36:15.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15068" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-04T20:56:14.340" Score="2" ViewCount="215" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question has been closed in the Electrical and Home Improvement sites as its seen as not relevant so maybe you guys can help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an old table saw with a Schneider Electric LE1D12P7 DOL Starter. I haven't run it in a few months, but plugged it in today (230V, 16A - Ireland based) and it trips just at the end of the ramp phase as the motor reaches its target speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have attached some pictures below. I ran it without the starter cover on and can see that it is the LC1D12 contactor that is tripping. If I reset the starter and run it again, the same thing happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a link to a video of the Table Saw starting up: &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DPeroeIZuXNWs-7DursR7HPKCHdAy_zj/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Table Saw Ramp&lt;/a&gt; and here's another link that shows the contactor tripping just as the motor reaches its target speed: &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/1g_ei3VL-PpRieyEidVuUvpche_KhOK-2/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Table Saw Ramp (No DOL Cover)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never had to do any real troubleshooting with this saw so any advice on connections to check/components to replace etc would be greatly appreciated. I'm not entirely sure what the operating principle of these DOL starters is so hopefully it is something simple and obvious that can be tweaked to fix it. I did try changing the ramp duration on the starter but the contactor is still tripping as the motor reaches its target speed. If you need more information, please ask. Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/stvDR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/stvDR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Table Saw&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XE6GL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XE6GL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;DOL Starter No Cover&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0TyMq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0TyMq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;DOL Starter Spec&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5wwOI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5wwOI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Plug&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15153" LastActivityDate="2024-01-04T20:56:14.340" Title="DOL Starter (LE1D12P7) Tripping at end of ramp on table saw" Tags="|table-saw|power-tools|electrical-requirements|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2024-01-14T02:51:20.513" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15069" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-05T13:32:48.787" Score="0" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nrGyi.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nrGyi.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/siYxH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/siYxH.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2csxz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2csxz.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;This is about 20 to 30 degrees from the plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I make this without a CNC ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find a router bit with this kind of angle, and a bearing at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1682" LastEditorUserId="1682" LastEditDate="2024-01-05T16:11:35.220" LastActivityDate="2024-01-06T09:07:20.353" Title="How to make this curved chamfer?" Tags="|router-bit|jig|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15069" CreationDate="2024-01-05T15:03:13.393" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make a template of the curve for the top of the board, then insert a templating collar in your router base plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The collar will follow the template and you can use any bit you'd like sticking through it to cut a round over, chamfer, ogee, or other profile you'd like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2024-01-05T16:58:31.853" LastActivityDate="2024-01-05T16:58:31.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15069" CreationDate="2024-01-06T09:07:20.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can find a suitable router bit sans bearing as you indicate in the Comments, this is a fairly routine template-routing job. It can be done either on a table (with the fence well back or removed) or with the router hand held.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Protip for smoother results: add a strip of tape to the outside of the collar (or the template) when removing the bulk of the material. Remove the tape for one final pass, sometimes called a &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/13098/what-is-a-dust-pass/&quot;&gt;dust pass&lt;/a&gt; for fairly obvious reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, and &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; faster if you're set up to do it — you'll be done before a router bit can get to you..... even if you selected expedited shipping :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hand tools&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;How many of these do you have to do? This absolutely screams hand tools if it's just for a one-off. But there's still a good case to be made to the hybrid woodworker for doing it by hand if you need a few, and there's no expectation of having to do repeats in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Plane the easy part (the basic chamfer on the straight edge).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Now shape the curved profile as you prefer — jigsaw, bandsaw, coping saw/bow saw, spindle sander, rasps/files and hand sanding, any combination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Then for the chamfer on the curved portion, spokeshave. Scraping and sanding (with a hard backing {dowel} to maintain crisp edges) to finish off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Marking out for depth on the edge and projection onto the face will help greatly in achieving uniform results. This might seem tricky once the edge curve is made since most of us don't have pencil gauges that'll follow curves (and I don't believe any are commercially available). However, careful 'finger gauging' should actually prove sufficient and as always is instantly available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2024-01-06T09:07:20.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15076" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-07T04:41:06.627" Score="2" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;Was just gifted what at first glance I thought was a 2&amp;quot; flattening bit for a 1/2&amp;quot; shank router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it has a spur and cutting rim like a forstner bit except there's no way with a shank of its proportions it could be a forstner bit. The spur is proud of the rest of the chopper and cutting rim and probably sharp enough to cut a groove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It had a non-descript marking &amp;quot;CPT 44160&amp;quot; that google did not offer any clarity on. I'm totally at a loss for what this cutter head is for. It's gorgeously machined and despite being quite old is still super sharp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help you fine folks can offer here is much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this just a weirdly specific router bit designed to cut a 2&amp;quot; groove with a tiny v-groove in the middle? Is it not a router bit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L7Yye.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L7Yye.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;This is a picture of the bit.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13371" LastActivityDate="2024-01-14T22:27:25.300" Title="Why would a router bit have a spur on it?" Tags="|router-bit|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15076" CreationDate="2024-01-07T05:05:12.297" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not a router bit… it’s used to cut cups when used in a drill press. One technical description would be ‘hinge boring bit’. (You’ll see a lot like it in the 35mm size.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2024-01-07T05:05:12.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1500" CreationDate="2024-01-07T16:07:17.320" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which way does the board twist? If you point your left thumb along the board and it twists the same way your left hand fingers curl you have discovered a secret about trees. Most trees are &amp;quot;right handed&amp;quot;. About 10% of trees are left  handed such that the branches spiral counter clockwise as you look up the tree. (Imagine a spiral staircase of branches that keep twisting to the left.)&#xA;A left handed coniferous tree is almost always the problem when the sawn board twists. I bought a load of red pine from a plantation, had it sawn into 2&amp;quot; x 6&amp;quot;, carefully stacked it to air dry, level and with uniform stickers. And every piece twisted to the left. A german Zimmerei (carpenter) told me that the seedlings for these pine trees must have all come from a single left handed tree because every board warped the same way and by the same amount.&#xA;Rather than throw it all away I had to use glue, long screws on the tongues and clamps to force each board down to the joists in the new floor. Never again! It was three times more labour intensive.&#xA;Pine and other softwoods do not steam bend like hardwoods do, so you will not have much choice about fixing this problem. Best to avoid the material in the first place especially if buying green ungraded lumber.&#xA;Tom Muri Oakville, Ontario&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15164" LastActivityDate="2024-01-07T16:07:17.320" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15081" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-08T16:31:40.843" Score="0" ViewCount="45" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on the design for a very large speaker chassis (approx. 9' H x 6' W x 2' D). Based on this very large size I'd like this to be able to disassemblable into panels for storage. The chassis design will be pretty standard, 4 walls with inlaid front and back panels:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XKMFn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XKMFn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is a good design for the corner joints I could use to allow this to disassemble? I need it to both be strong enough to hold the large cabinet together and look reasonably polished. Would something where I cover the 4 corner seems with L shaped angle irons potentially work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current plan for finishing is to use something like this Granotone speaker paint: &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07Z5SNJ1F&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z5SNJ1F/?coliid=I276S8TRG9J0S1&amp;amp;colid=1227IC8E2NVMS&amp;amp;ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&amp;amp;th=1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15167" LastEditorUserId="15167" LastEditDate="2024-01-08T17:20:02.947" LastActivityDate="2024-01-09T19:32:30.200" Title="Design for Disassemblable Corner Joint for Guitar Speaker Chassis" Tags="|finishing|design|joints|assembly|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2024-01-10T21:50:03.100" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15082" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-08T23:02:47.093" Score="0" ViewCount="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a slab of black walnut and am needing to make a desk out of it sooner rather than later. Am I able to just finish the top side of the table and leave the bottom of it unsealed so it can dry while I use it or is this risking ruining the piece of wood all together?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15170" LastActivityDate="2024-01-08T23:02:47.093" Title="Sealing wet wood?" Tags="|finishing|wood|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15081" CreationDate="2024-01-09T14:34:51.193" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;How would you attach those angle irons, with nuts &amp;amp; bolts? Then why not do as suggested in a comment and just screw/bolt the thing together in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be honest, though, at 9 &lt;em&gt;feet&lt;/em&gt; (3 meters) tall and 6 &lt;em&gt;feet&lt;/em&gt; (2 meters) wide, I'd think some extra strength from some angle iron at the corners wouldn't hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you expecting to put the angle iron on the &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; with threaded holes that the bolts run into, or on the outside with clearance holes through the iron and threaded inserts in the wood to accept the bolts? I'd think bolting the iron to the inside &amp;quot;permanently&amp;quot; to the sides, then removable bolts into threaded iron for the front/back may be your best bet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you've now indicated (in a comment) that you're interested in the type of corner joint that will &lt;em&gt;look good&lt;/em&gt;, I think that's entirely up to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A simple butt joint, when covered in paint will be just fine. (I didn't click the link, but in my mind, &amp;quot;speaker paint&amp;quot; has a texture to it that will hide the edge laminations.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A miter joint will work nicely, but leaves thin edges that could be dinged up during storage &amp;amp; handling and may not last long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A lock miter would be very strong but could be difficult to disassemble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The options are unlimited, and it really comes down to how much effort you want to put into it, and how concerned you are with damaging the look during disassembly and storage and what the potential for damage is with the specific design you choose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2024-01-09T19:32:30.200" LastActivityDate="2024-01-09T19:32:30.200" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15085" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15087" CreationDate="2024-01-09T19:11:37.667" Score="0" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just finished building plywood drawers that are 60 cm wide x 50 cm deep x 15 cm high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are made of 10 mm plywood, hanging on high quality soft close slides that are rated 45 kg per pair or per slide, I'm not sure, and this is already about 10 times the weight of the drawer and its content.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'm considering using solid oak to make the drawer fronts, which will be 60 cm wide x 36 cm high, in 2 cm thick oak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This adds up to about 3.6 kg per drawer front, which I find excessive. On the other hand, it's also nice to have that extra mass to the drawer because it helps the moving part of the slide hit the mechanism at the back and trigger the soft close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm wondering if I'm going to regret adding that extra mass to the drawer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1682" LastEditorUserId="1682" LastEditDate="2024-01-09T19:33:26.943" LastActivityDate="2024-01-10T13:05:53.510" Title="How heavy should the drawer front be?" Tags="|wood-selection|drawer-construction|materials|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15085" CreationDate="2024-01-10T13:05:53.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A solid wood front added to an existing drawer box will be absolutely fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anything, it’ll be better, as it will give a solid ‘thunk’ when it closes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2024-01-10T13:05:53.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15088" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-10T14:20:09.253" Score="2" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this piece from a small bed-side table. It is 44 cms long. The point it is broken has the smallest dimensions 17 x 19 mms. I want to fix (join) it myself. The best experience working with wooden furniture I have is assembling Ikea furniture (desk, cot, book shelf, chairs, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible? Please suggest what is the best approach?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some pictures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MZzud.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MZzud.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W5Svc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W5Svc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YvJ9I.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YvJ9I.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actual table has dimensions of 44L x 33w x 29.5ht (in cms):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eqgj5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eqgj5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The unassembled table as seen from bottom (the circled points have screw  holes to fasten) with the drawer removed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nX2jn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nX2jn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15176" LastEditorUserId="15176" LastEditDate="2024-01-10T17:02:41.230" LastActivityDate="2024-01-10T17:02:41.230" Title="How to join the broken wooden piece (from a bedside table)?" Tags="|joinery|wood-repair|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13836" CreationDate="2024-01-12T00:33:04.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Double the beams using 2-16', and 2-6'boards. Put the joints at opposite ends, fasten securely, and you have a very strong beam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15181" LastActivityDate="2024-01-12T00:33:04.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15035" CreationDate="2024-01-12T08:07:18.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately there's little you can do to provide a protective finish (truly protective) that won't block the cedar smell, because the very properties that provide protection do so by sealing the surface to some degree — this is precisely why cedar linings on chests, cedar walls/fitments in some closets are left as bare wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As much as it pains me to suggest them, the one thing that &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; work is a modern &amp;quot;hard-wax oil&amp;quot; but if this appeals to you it might require some experimentation, which won't be cheap given the prices for these products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My primary recommendation however would be to finish all the surfaces that could do with high-level protection, because they could do with it given how soft American cedars are. And I'd do so in a conventional way (e.g. with wipe-on varnish, a good lacquer) but to leave every other surface bare to maximise the smell. This of course includes the insides of the night stands, but also every non-visible portion of all the bed elements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note however that the smell won't linger long on any exterior surface. You can expect it to hang around for a decent length of time only in an enclosed space because there's no constant airflow. This is why the cedar smell lingers for a long time in chests, less long in walk-in closets lined with cedar and not at all on something like a garden planter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2024-01-12T08:07:18.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14776" CreationDate="2024-01-13T08:46:31.050" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would grab a piece of metal plate and say I have a 35 mm dowel and need it to be 32mm I would drill 6 holes in the plate: (table drill would be best)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;34,5 mm&#xA;34 mm&#xA;33,5 mm&#xA;33 mm&#xA;32,5 mm&#xA;32 mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then tap the dowel through the holes until I have the thickness I want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's the theory, dunno if it would work in real life ;) will try it myself!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15186" LastActivityDate="2024-01-13T08:46:31.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15076" CreationDate="2024-01-14T22:27:25.300" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you have there is known as a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drill_bit#Forstner_bit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Forstner bit&lt;/a&gt;. They're used for drilling large, relatively clean holes in wood. They're designed to cut in the axial direction and shouldn't be subjected to transverse loads as in a router. If you're drilling a thru-hole with one you can get better results by using a backing board as they tend to blow out the back side when they break through. Alternatively, you can drill almost all of the way through one side so just the point sticks out, then flip the piece over and finish drilling from the other side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8237" LastActivityDate="2024-01-14T22:27:25.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15096" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-15T18:16:16.237" Score="0" ViewCount="47" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am about to embark on building a bench for under a window. It will be about 2.7m wide, 75cm in the window and 45cm deep either side of the window.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was going to build the structure in MDF and then clad in Wood veneered MDF but after watching children destroy my friends house at a recent birthday party I worry that the 0.5mm veneer will scratch easily with no recourse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furniture board at the sizes I am looking for seems insane and hard to actually find (I am in London, UK).&#xA;Does a thicker vaneer'd MDF exist? e.g 3mm veneer so it can be sanded?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would you build it out of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15194" LastActivityDate="2024-01-16T08:15:24.117" Title="2.7m Oak bench under window - what material? Veneered MDF seems too thin" Tags="|technique|wood-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15096" CreationDate="2024-01-16T08:15:24.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're building this in an area you know children are going to interact with regularly (especially unsupervised naturally) then I wouldn't suggest standard veneer is the way to go, it's just too thin to stand up to roughhousing. In fact a long time before veneers went on a crash diet and became too thin to consider, veneered stuff was not built to withstand rough handling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since 3mm oak veneer wouldn't be easy to source, and would likely blow the budget anyway, I'd look into using engineered flooring for all its many advantages — less work for you, not overly expensive, built to take punishment, sandable (and more than once).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X0kfF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X0kfF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Engineered flooring, ply core&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qBqgq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qBqgq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Engineered Floor, MDF core&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add solid-wood oak edging and I think you'd be good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would you build it out of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think this is really relevant to the Q, but since you asked I'd be inclined to make only the top from oak — sourced from a timber merchant's not from B&amp;amp;Q or the like! — and the rest from a decent grade of MDF (they are not all made equal) which I'd paint to match the trim in the room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The oak would be suitably robust and hard wearing and the painted MDF easy to fill and repaint if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2024-01-16T08:15:24.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15098" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15100" CreationDate="2024-01-16T15:59:09.207" Score="2" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I got into woodworking I was making mostly large pieces (bookshelves, desks, etc).  This isn't always easy as I get older, and I'm not always having good days with my back, not to mention the cold winter months.  This past year I purchased a laser engraver and it's opened a whole new world for me when I can't pull out the big tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The things I create with the engraver tend to be quite small and &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; light compared to my traditional stuff, as I usually cut from 3mm basswood plywood.  I still want to finish these pieces with a nice, high-gloss coating, using a sprayer with water-based polyurethane in the summer and a spraycan of Rustoleum 2x in the winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Problem&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that while I could just set a large slab of wood down on some sawhorses and go at it, I need to set these small pieces on a sheet of plywood or some other base.  When I spray, the force of the spray tends to lift my small pieces and blow them around, or at least shift their position.  Even a small shift can move them onto a part of the plywood that has wet coating on it, causing an obvious problem as it dries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do others do to address the problem of movement when spraying small, light pieces?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some ideas I've come up with that might work, but have obvious issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Laser cut myself an open grid to use as a base so the air can escape under the objects and be less likely to lift them.  Not sure if this will leave a grid pattern on the side facing down though.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use some sort of sticky substance to hold them down.  Not sure what I could use that wouldn't leave residue though.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2024-01-17T07:37:40.620" Title="How do you spray coating on small, light pieces?" Tags="|finishing|plywood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15098" CreationDate="2024-01-16T17:05:32.487" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Double sided tape is quite commonly used to hold parts together for milling operations. For example, tape two pieces of wood together then run them through the bands saw and sand to final profile to ensure that they're identical; or hold a template to a piece of wood to run the router around it. Once the work is done, a stiff putty knife will lift the edge so the pieces can be separated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure that a little piece of double sided tape would be more than enough to hold your little pieces down to a larger sheet of plywood for spraying. Once they're dry, the putty knife will lift them right off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't need to push down too hard to get them to stick, so that will make removing the tape from the work piece easier. If a little residue does remain, some lighter fluid (or a commercial &amp;quot;goo&amp;quot; remover like GooGone™) will work to get the residue off. Or, you could just give it a light sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find that you don't like the results of the tape, there are other temporary adhesives like &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B001FGLX72&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blu-Tack&lt;/a&gt; &lt;sup&gt;just one example, no affiliation or recommendation of this particular brand or retailer&lt;/sup&gt; that should hold the piece down, allow for easy removal and this stuff is even reusable (for a while). I don't know what spraying finish on it would do to its reusability, so you may want to test that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to put down a piece of painter's tape on your work surface, put another one on the back of the work piece, then a drop of CA glue on one piece of tape &amp;amp; accelerator on the other piece of tape. The CA will hold tape to tape, while the painter's tape should come off quite cleanly from both surfaces. This one is a kind of &amp;quot;make your own&amp;quot; double sided tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2024-01-16T17:05:32.487" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15098" CreationDate="2024-01-17T07:37:40.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a temporary &lt;em&gt;firm&lt;/em&gt; hold the first thought is obviously a double-sided tape of some kind but A, they can be very prone to leaving a residue and B, the hold could easily be too strong for your liking. Either or both of these I think may rule it out, unless you want to research and test out some contenders to find one that's in the Goldilocks zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Temporary &lt;em&gt;light&lt;/em&gt; hold screams Blu Tack to me, and the real stuff (Bostik) is now reputed to leave minimal or zero residue, unlike years ago. But, again by reputation only, White Tak (UHU) is supposed to be even better. With either product any finish that gets onto the tack can just be blending in up to a certain point. If your need is ongoing do expect diminishing returns over a long period, but you should get a very long lifespan from each blob. &lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you have a laser you can come at this from another direction entirely, you could cut yourself the perforated top&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; for a homemade &lt;strong&gt;vacuum table&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xrEb8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xrEb8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Downdraft tables&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to holding the pieces in place you'll get some level of overspray extraction which might prove very beneficial and reduce or eliminate the need for a respirator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Based on experience blending in paint overspray into a clone of Blu Tack which I've used both to hold small parts and as a crude masking material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Although many similar tables, used for sanding, seem to use pegboard successfully, as in one of the two pictured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2024-01-17T07:37:40.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15101" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15102" CreationDate="2024-01-17T12:20:07.877" Score="5" ViewCount="985" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many online sources, such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodcraft.com/media/W1siZiIsIjIwMTcvMTEvMDIvMDkvNDIvMjEvNDA5LzcxX0pvaW5lcnlDbGFzc19GSU5BTC5wZGYiXV0/71-JoineryClass-FINAL.pdf?sha=ab26dd82c9c5f44a&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this guide from woodcraft.com&lt;/a&gt; recommend making the tenons 1/16 inch shorter and narrower than the space they are to occupy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R2ZTz.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R2ZTz.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where is the benefit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to find an explanation, but the closest I've got was some forum mentioning that it is to &lt;strong&gt;prevent hydraulic lock&lt;/strong&gt;. What is a hydraulic lock and why would it be bad? Are there some other reasons?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5579" LastActivityDate="2024-01-19T14:41:05.380" Title="Why make loose tenons narrower and shorter than the combined mortises?" Tags="|joinery|mortise-and-tenon|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15101" CreationDate="2024-01-17T16:44:22.687" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a practical experiment, try making the mortise the &lt;em&gt;exact&lt;/em&gt; size of the tenon and see if you can push the tenon into the mortise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, add glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without glue, you might get the tenon in place because the wood surfaces are rough enough that there are tiny channels through which the air can escape the mortise. Adding glue, though, provides a sealant to those tiny channels, preventing the air (and excess glue) from escaping. You're now creating pressure in the bottom of the mortise, and, when you let go of the tenon, that trapped air pressure will push the tenon some or all the way back out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it pushes the tenon out by just 1/16&amp;quot; and you made your mortises the &lt;em&gt;exact&lt;/em&gt; length of your tenon, you may not notice that it popped out a bit, but, when the glue's dry and you're trying to put the other piece on, you'll discover that they don't go all the way in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be able to work that way by gluing both sides at the same time and using a clamp to pull them together, but you may end up with a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of glue squeeze out and you might starve the joint of glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the same reason that purchased dowels have flutes on them - gives air &amp;amp; glue a way to escape and not create pressure (or &lt;strong&gt;hydraulic lock&lt;/strong&gt;) inside the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2024-01-17T16:44:22.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15103" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15104" CreationDate="2024-01-18T16:32:21.460" Score="0" ViewCount="70" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trying to see if my 70” TV Stand would support a 29 gal fish tank - about 330lbs? There is no weight capacity in the specs but it’s very sturdy. My concern is that there is no support in the middle where the tank would sit. See attached pics&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sC0ix.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sC0ix.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZdAsv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZdAsv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15199" LastActivityDate="2024-01-19T00:41:07.223" Title="Can my 70” tv stand hold 330lbs" Tags="|wood|strength|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15103" CreationDate="2024-01-19T00:35:22.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note that the filled tank weight will be in the neighborhood of 300+ lb.&#xA;The stand can support the weight provided the structure is properly enhanced. There are two primary considerations that must be addressed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The entire structure must have adequate stability to resist racking side to side in the 70&amp;quot; direction. The masonite back panel can provide this stability if it is properly secured to the rest of the frame. Any side-to-side motion must be resisted by the back panel. The panel should be screwed to all the verticals and horizontal pieces at approx. 6&amp;quot; or 8&amp;quot; o.c. I am assuming that the back panel is 1/4&amp;quot;.  If it is less thick, it should be replaced.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tank weight must be conveyed to the floor. This could be accomplished by centering the tank over the two inner vertical panels (Assuming they are less that 32&amp;quot; apart so the tank spans to extend over each one.) The tank weight must be directly transferred to the floor. Since those panels do not extend to the floor you will need to provide solid feet below each one that passes the weight to the floor.  You can do this with continuous pieces of 2x? wood studs cut to the proper depth.  In addition if there is a gap between the top and there two internal vertical panels that must also be filled with solid material so that the weight doesn't deflect the top&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that the finished faces are covered with a plastic veneer that does not absorb water.  You are bound to get it the top wet occasionally and a wood veneer will not age well with sitting water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2024-01-19T00:41:07.223" LastActivityDate="2024-01-19T00:41:07.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15105" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-19T14:36:51.433" Score="1" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a used 10 inch bandsaw and it came with several blades.  All the spare blades came coiled.  I just put on the 1/4 inch one and it has a twist in it.  Looking at some howtos, coiling a blade involves some twisting of the blade.  Can you create a permanent twist by coiling, perhaps by not doing it correctly?  (The answer will determine how I store the blades).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8805" LastActivityDate="2024-01-23T18:04:10.853" Title="Can coiling a bandsaw blade permanently twist it?" Tags="|band-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15101" CreationDate="2024-01-19T14:41:05.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not heard of sizing tenons narrower (across the smaller dimension) than the mortise, as that goes against the most deeply held truth that a good glue joint requires good wood-to-wood contact. This idea was reinforced when attending a fine furniture woodworking school where we painstakingly trimmed our tenons by hand only until they just fitted the mortises perfectly. A properly sized mortice (no more than 1/3 width of the stock) will not split form any seasonal moisture variances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is the idea of making a tenon “shorter” (across the wider dimension, not depth) when there is the possibility of seasonal movement causing issues, but this is typically in long joints like headboards or tabletop breadboard ends, but I think that goes beyond the basic topic at hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the depth, the hydraulic resistance is a real thing. But also, the end of the tenon is end-grain and therefore offers little strength when compared with all of the side-grain contact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally trying to fit a tenon to the exact depth of the mortice could lead to an unintentional bottoming out before the joint is closed, so leaving the tenon just short prevents that issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Sorry for any misspellings, as my coffee hasn’t kicked in yet, or has kicked in too much, I’m not really sure!!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15205" LastActivityDate="2024-01-19T14:41:05.380" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15107" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-19T15:43:42.043" Score="2" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a used 10 inch bandsaw and it came with several blades. When I was putting a different one on I noticed it was twisted.  I just took it off and put it on a table top.  It didn't lie flat.  The &amp;quot;circle&amp;quot; has a cup to it, similar to how a wood circle could cup.  It looks like the weld was done wrong.  I took the rest of the blades and laid each one on the table.  The only one that was really flat was the one that was on the saw when I bought it.  I only found one reference on the internet about this--it said the blade should lie flat.  So, are all these blades bad?  Or, is it OK if the blade isn't super flat on the table?  FYI, these other blades that don't lie flat are narrow--3/16 to 1/8 inches.  And they were coiled (in case that can affect it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8805" LastActivityDate="2024-01-23T19:15:40.337" Title="Should a bandsaw blade lie flat on a table or bench top?" Tags="|band-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15108" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-21T08:15:23.953" Score="0" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got this mango wood dining table. There is a small crack on the side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about replacing the table, or possibly accepting a 20% discount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could this crack get worse?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ff854.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ff854.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enterenter image description here image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15211" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2024-01-22T08:25:54.023" LastActivityDate="2024-01-28T21:56:01.083" Title="Noticed a small crack on new dining table. Should I have it replaced?" Tags="|wood|furniture|tabletop|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15108" CreationDate="2024-01-21T15:09:49.843" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are we talking about the crack on the bottom right of the end grain? If so, that’s called checking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It’s possible that it’ll get a bit worse as the wood acclimates fully to where you are, but should stay to the underside. It’s also possible that it won’t change at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether you return it or take a discount is entirely guesswork… (Though it’s worth saying that a replacement might have the same problem.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2024-01-21T15:09:49.843" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15110" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-21T16:06:42.003" Score="1" ViewCount="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thirty years ago I built two bookcases from an unknown tropical hardwood. I was in a tropical environment, but knew the cases would end their lives in the Midwest. Given that, I chose to finish the cases in multiple coats of linseed oil as it seemed the most forgiving of travel and environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thirty years on, this wood really needs some attention. I'm looking for advice on how to proceed. Could I polish it with more linseed oil, or would you advise I use something else to bring back that subtle sheen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15212" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2024-01-22T08:02:42.247" LastActivityDate="2024-01-22T08:22:57.880" Title="Restoring the finish on linseed oil-finished cabinetry" Tags="|finishing|hardwood|restoration|cleaning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15112" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-21T21:57:57.680" Score="2" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my woodworking workshop I have a cyclone style 2-stage dust collector (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.oneida-air.com/dust-collectors/professional-shops/supercell-high-pressure-hepa-cyclone-dust-collector-230v&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Oneida Supercell&lt;/a&gt;) and workshop air filtration system (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodcraft.com/products/jet-air-filtration-system-model-afs-1000b?gclid=Cj0KCQiAnrOtBhDIARIsAFsSe50seUwm36xKbfOAFBkVS7Lq7lwdu7Dlo3glIIFYOP-fkSKNHdeHoxgaAoFnEALw_wcB&amp;amp;gclsrc=aw.ds&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jet AFS-1000b&lt;/a&gt;) but I'm always feeling like I could/should do more directly around where I am working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would there be value in putting one or more floor-standing home HEPA filter systems, like &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0BGPF71Q6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this style&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I am not asking about specific brands, only showing the form factor. I ask because I do not see much mention of this in Google searches or woodworking forums.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12702" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2024-01-23T18:03:32.107" LastActivityDate="2024-01-28T06:19:57.003" Title="Is augmenting shop dust collection and workshop air filtering with a floor-style HEPA filter effective?" Tags="|dust-collection|dust|hepa|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15110" CreationDate="2024-01-22T08:22:57.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could I polish it with more linseed oil&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, that's very much one of the options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do bear in mind that how to finish items is largely a matter of personal preference, and once you get past any true requirements for looks and/or protection it becomes &lt;em&gt;entirely&lt;/em&gt; subjective — a dozen different woodworkers might finish the same project in perhaps five different ways (not counting painting).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or should I use something else to bring back that subtle sheen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I would be inclined to&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, however, given the linseed finish stood up well enough for 30 years that you're only now feeling the need to do anything about refreshing it I think that argues strongly that it was good enough for what it needed to do!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Because I've moved away from finishing things just in linseed oil. I've tended towards wiping on polyurethane because the application procedure can be essentially identical, you build sheen &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; faster with far less elbow grease, and the protection afforded is vastly superior (even with a scant 3-4 dilute coats).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2024-01-22T08:22:57.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15105" CreationDate="2024-01-23T18:04:10.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you damage them?  Yes if you put the twist in or unwrap them incorrectly.  However, correctly folding them and unfolding them will not damage or twist them.  I have a bandsaw mill that has the same kind of blades and we store all of them that way.  Take care and you won't damage them, and taking care you won't damage yourself either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2024-01-23T18:04:10.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15107" CreationDate="2024-01-23T19:15:40.337" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, Flat is better, but not %100 required.  The wider the blade the more it can be bad.  But 'Flat' is also relative.  The biggest issue is how do they run once you put them on the saw under tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are REALLY worried about accuracy and clean cuts, how they are stored is MUCH LESS important than the quality of the blade you are starting with.  Most of the cheap blades you can buy in the store can 'do the job' of making a decent cut and tuning the saw itself can help make a good cut, but if you really want to do something like cut say Birdseye maple into veneer, then you need to put some real money into a first class blade designed to do such things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most bandsaw blades you can find for $10-$20 each.  My carbide tipped 1&amp;quot; blade for resawing cost me about $140 for the single blade. The cheap ones might be able to do 2-3 resaws if you are lucky without too much wandering but my carbide one should last for years if I don't hit a nail or something, and it can be resharpened (and would be worth it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thinner blades are much easier to bend and twist (usually on the saw while using it) and if you got a bunch of used blades with your used bandsaw, the issues quite likely were from the previous user.  How the blades are stored has little to do with it, unless they were kept where someone might step on them...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2024-01-23T19:15:40.337" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15112" CreationDate="2024-01-24T18:39:27.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is - it depends on your situation. Only you can know what you need or what will be effective in your situation. Getting good data is the beginning of good decision making.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but I'm always feeling like I could/should do more directly around where I am working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe your feeling is correct, and maybe it's not. How to evaluate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would there be value in putting one or more floor-standing home HEPA filter systems&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose you purchase extra filtration - did it make a difference? If so, how much of a difference, is more needed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first step is to understand how dusty your environment is. There are devices available to measure this. You are looking for devices that will measure particulate matter and volatile organic compounds. Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularwoodworking.com/review/workshop-air-quality/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;popularwoodworking.com article on selecting a monitor&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Knowing this data point will enable you to select a solution appropriate to your situation and then measure improvement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Googling &amp;quot;home dust monitoring system&amp;quot; is a good way to start learning about a very complicated and important topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that there is no substitute for wearing a mask for air filtration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to a discussion on air quality monitoring in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lumberjocks.com/threads/looking-for-aa-good-air-quality-monitor-for-the-shop.317586/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;lumberjocks.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6222" LastActivityDate="2024-01-24T18:39:27.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15118" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15124" CreationDate="2024-01-25T00:50:38.300" Score="0" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Nova G3 chuck which by default comes with the 50 MM jaws. 50 MM is just a bit less than 2 inches but fully contracted will not fit into a 2&amp;quot; hole. I bought the 31 MM jaws and they will not expand enough to make contact in a 2&amp;quot; hole. Amazon says the JS-SP45 has an expanding grip of 2.04 to 2.83 even though 45 MM is 1.77&amp;quot;. I read that as too big for a 2&amp;quot; hole. Anyone have the JS-SP45 and know what size holes it will fit into?  Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15226" LastActivityDate="2024-01-27T18:34:03.970" Title="What size jaws?" Tags="|wood|turning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15119" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-25T02:49:42.387" Score="0" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UisMq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UisMq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;[enter image description here]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it's okay to post here. What I'd like to build is kinda like a deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have a hot tub (6.5 ft x 7ft) that we don't use. Currently, doesn't work (might fix it sometime in the future).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to build a deck/platform above it so we can use the extra 45 square feet the platform will provide. The lips of the hot tub (the edges that sit on the floor) protrude 2&amp;quot;. I'm trying to minimize the height of the platform as much as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My 1st option is 2x8s around the hot tub and then 2x6s as joists across the 6.5ft span 16&amp;quot; OC. This will give me a height of 7.5&amp;quot; not including the plywood and carpet that'll go on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My 2nd option is 2x6s around the hot tub and then 2x4s as joists across the 6.5ft span 16&amp;quot; OC (or 12&amp;quot; OC if recommended). This will give me a height of 5.5&amp;quot; not including the plywood and carpet that'll go on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This room will primarily be a gym. So, we'll most probably have a treadmill and exercise bike on the platform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just curious what you guys/gals think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15227" LastEditorUserId="15227" LastEditDate="2024-01-25T02:50:38.110" LastActivityDate="2024-01-26T16:22:14.593" Title="Deck/platform over hot tub" Tags="|wood|design|safety|strength|measurement|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15118" CreationDate="2024-01-25T08:27:52.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There should be a solution here which won't require purchasing another chuck, based on common practices in lathe work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing I thought of, as mentioned in the Comments, was just packing out the jaws individually (as is routinely done with metalworking lathes). But I think you can go one up from that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply turn a flat ring from wood with a suitably smaller inner diameter and a 2&amp;quot; OD. Saw through the ring at one point — you deliberately want to lose wood to the kerf here — and this can be slipped into your 2&amp;quot; recess, and will then grip tightly once the jaws of the smaller chuck are expanded. A close-grained hard wood like sugar maple might be ideal here but experiment and see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, turn a multi-radius spindle with a &lt;em&gt;very slight&lt;/em&gt; taper on the 2&amp;quot; end and at the opposite end a diameter that one of your existing chucks can comfortably grip. Jamming the turning on should hold sufficiently for any turning techniques within reason, based on similar techniques used in both Russian and Japanese bowl turning, and the friction hold of cup centres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2024-01-25T08:27:52.573" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1368" CreationDate="2024-01-26T09:30:25.307" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's any help to anyone out there with glue spots that can't be re-sanded (very thin ply),  I fixed some small glue up areas on a dark stained piece with colored fine tipped permanent marker pens. Just drew matching grain very lightly in brown and black (other colors would probably work also too match the stain). The glue spots took the permanent marker color when stain wouldn't penetrate. Would not work for large areas,  but it sure fixed the small areas at the glued seam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15229" LastActivityDate="2024-01-26T09:30:25.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15118" CreationDate="2024-01-27T18:34:03.970" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really appreciate the input but the pretty thin packing ring may be beyond my skill level at this time and the hole indeed needs to be 2&amp;quot;. I indeed have all my receipts and returned the 31 mm and 45 mm jaw sets and got the Nova 6019 35 mm jaws which worked just fine expanding into the 2&amp;quot; hole. I will also quit relying on Amazon's description of capabilities and alwasy refer to the Nova website where specifications are complete, accurate and most of all consistent.  Thanks guys!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15226" LastActivityDate="2024-01-27T18:34:03.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13144" CreationDate="2024-01-28T00:59:16.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;when I was at Building College my tutor said if possible 99% of the time your work piece you are keeping should be between the blade and rip fence, the waste should be on the free side. This as you say is normally with the wider piece between blade and fence. Generally when pushing the piece through the saw, subject to right hand only, your thumb and fingers are placed closest to the fence with your little finger running along the top of the fence as a guide and support. When the piece your keeping is less than 100mm 4inch, I suggest only using push sticks, remember to stand to one side (generally left) to avoid kick back if not using feather boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15234" LastActivityDate="2024-01-28T00:59:16.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15112" CreationDate="2024-01-28T06:19:57.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In your case, not at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would be better off getting a HEPA kit for your Jet system and then wearing some level of particle mask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The filter you have filters as much air in a minute as the system you're looking at does in an hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that doesnt even consider the smaller system would only be making the air safer near the exhaust port, which is not necessarily where you're breathing. Plus you'd have to drag it around and set it up all over the shop. Not a good use of your time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you're right to take a belt and suspenders approach to protecting your lungs. But I think there is a more effective and straight forward solution: a respirator. Better to put the filter in front of your airway instead of several feet away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could do something as simple as a KN95 particle mask all the way up to a full-face HEPA PAPR respirator. I've seen guys use them for heavy duty lathe work and it seems really sharp. That way you're protected during really dusty operations and by the time you're done the JET will have pulled most of the crud out of the air in a couple minutes (unless your shop it super huge).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck and three cheers for respiratory safety!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13371" LastActivityDate="2024-01-28T06:19:57.003" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15108" CreationDate="2024-01-28T21:56:01.083" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's going to be hard to say how much worse it will get because we don't know what environmental conditions under which the table was made or the state of the wood during assembly. Wood is a fickle, organic material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would be confident is assuming is that the quality of the product will be the same when it is coming from the supplier. If they're banging out dozens of tables for export in a 100% humidity near the equator from untried wood, you're not going to see much of any difference from one single unit to the next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question to you is probably less &amp;quot;do I want this table or a discount on a different one?&amp;quot; than it is &amp;quot;do I want a 'rustic' looking table or do I want to pay a bit more for something better made?&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if that is even an option here, maybe your store gets product from multiple suppliers. But from this supplier I would not personally bet on switching a like product for like to avert this issue with checking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13371" LastActivityDate="2024-01-28T21:56:01.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15130" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-29T07:19:07.703" Score="0" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to a do a 90 degrees join between kitchen worktops (countertops) and my router only goes up to 8mm bits, but I see most jigs need a 12mm or 1/2inch bit plus a bushing.&#xA;The moment I saw the worktops I didn't actually realize that you would use a bushing, and instead thought to use a flush trim bit to copy the shape of the jig.&#xA;Has anyone tried that before?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example of such a jig:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vC3No.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vC3No.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15236" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2024-01-30T05:44:41.840" LastActivityDate="2024-01-30T05:44:41.840" Title="Can I use a flush trim bit with a jig for kitchen worktop joints?" Tags="|router|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15131" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-29T07:51:39.303" Score="1" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to make a platonic solid out of solid wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've computed that each edge should deviate 31.77 degrees from the vertical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm confident that I can produce a set of identical pentagons with the edges at 90 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now how can I cut the remaining material ? How does a deviation from the theoretical angle affect the final product. I am also going to add some kind of helpers to help align the edges during the assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mnhbX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mnhbX.png&quot; alt=&quot;dodecahedron&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1682" LastActivityDate="2024-01-30T08:51:04.067" Title="How to cut at a precise angle with a router?" Tags="|router-bit|jig|router-table|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15130" CreationDate="2024-01-29T13:37:10.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issue with your solution is that the jig pictured has an offset built in for the size of the bushing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That means that one side won’t mate nicely with the other side, unless you jump through a bunch of calculation hoops. I’m not saying it’s impossible — it’s just going to take a lot of extra work. (Work that the jig usually simplifies.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I admit that I have a bit of a problem with router proliferation, but my solution to this problem would be to buy or borrow a 1/2” router. The power will help cut the worktop and you’ll have another tool in your quiver for future projects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2024-01-29T13:37:10.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15131" CreationDate="2024-01-30T08:51:04.067" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm confident that I can produce a set of identical pentagons with the edges at 90 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is using a table saw then perhaps a very simple modification to the method would be able to achieve what you want. I am presuming however that you didn't mean a table saw, or that you do but yours doesn't have a tilt feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is the latter then a tilting jig could be built to achieve the angled edges..... remembering the adage: &lt;em&gt;if you can't make it perfect, make it adjustable&lt;/em&gt; :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now how can I cut the remaining material ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the tags you used, obviously you're thinking router/router table, maybe a straight-cutting bit and a jig of some sort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I'm sure this is possible I think the way to go is actually using a &lt;strong&gt;hand plane&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a start you could set to work immediately practising the planing if you have a plane, using any scrap wood or MDF you have to hand. Only additional things required are a bevel gauge to check progress and a protractor (or something else to set the angle precisely). Plus a good way to hold the workpiece at a comfortable height obviously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get the pieces to come together properly you might think that the bevel angle has to be dead on, but to give you some literal and metaphorical wiggle room you could aim to &lt;em&gt;slightly&lt;/em&gt; overshoot, at least at the back of each edge. This will leave some gaps in the back of course, but the right glue (epoxy + filler) can easily compensate for that, and the helpers you already plan to make will ensure everything stays aligned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, &lt;strong&gt;chisel&lt;/strong&gt;. This does sound crazy until you see the method demonstrated at the end of a video from Taylor Toolworks on super-fast chisel resurrection. &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/6OrNVd33YEE?t=848&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Link to the relevant section&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much as I hate to say it, this project does scream CNC.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2024-01-30T08:51:04.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15135" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-31T12:41:52.440" Score="0" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wanting to build a display case like the one pictured, however I'm not sure how the 'ledge' at the top of the bevel is done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I initially thought it would be router with chamfer bit and maybe table saw to do the notched ledge... Or it could be a router bit with an odd shape?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't quite get my head around it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a jobsite tablesaw that I'm pretty new to, but I do also have my router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nUFeJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nUFeJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8149" LastActivityDate="2024-01-31T12:48:06.533" Title="How to recreate this bevel with ledge profile?" Tags="|table-saw|router|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15135" CreationDate="2024-01-31T12:48:06.533" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;em&gt;many&lt;/em&gt; different ways to get that profile, not One True Way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Could all be done with a tablesaw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Could all be done with a shaper or router bit in one pass (faster to do, but more expensive and less generally useful)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Could all the done with two different router/shaper bits (slower to do, but more genererally useful)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Could all be done with hand planes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None is more valid than another, one &lt;em&gt;generally&lt;/em&gt; picks the method to suit the tools one has, unless following the siren song of suiting the tool you &lt;em&gt;want an excuse to buy.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3334" LastActivityDate="2024-01-31T12:48:06.533" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15137" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-02T07:41:17.213" Score="2" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been measuring and then cutting of course wall panels because I am converting a shed into a bedroom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my first time at doing something like this and I have had little to no help. Which is fine, the internet can be a great teacher somewhat so I think I’m doing alright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am nearly done except for just a few more pieces, but they are the hardest pieces because they have to have several cuts in them to go around the outlets, and some electrical boxes up top and around a built in workbench/counter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While working on this project, every panel I’ve put up, I have measured from floor to ceiling (or ceiling to floor). I make the measurement three times practically, one on one side of panel, one in the middle and then again on the other end. I did it this way because the top of shed or where the wood beam is is at an angle. I’m not sheet-rocking by the way, I’m sure that speaks for itself but still, as much info right? So to make sure I am cutting the right angle I figured that would be the best way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So while in theory I would think this is the proper way to measure, each time I’m off and have to take off almost another inch. Not always quite that much and sometimes more than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remeasure to see what I’ve done, and then measure my panel and sure enough, the measurements are the same, but when I go to put panel up, it’s always or almost always bigger and I have to go back and make extra cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m grateful, that whatever I’m doing is leaving too much and not taking to much away, but I’m still curious what it is that I am doing wrong. I would think that it should be fitting like a glove each time but it doesn’t.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It’s frustrating and especially now that I am going to have a these weird cuts I am going to have to make for the angle of top of wall, and then around the beams, and then again around these junction boxes things, and then around the workbench/counter part, and the light switches and electrical panel sockets. I would like to be able to make the cut one time and not have to make adjustments afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I definitely thought I could use a measuring tape before this project and am just not understanding why my measurements just aren’t working like they should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly I’m missing something so any insights would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15247" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2024-02-02T08:43:17.297" LastActivityDate="2024-02-03T15:18:58.350" Title="How to measure correctly?" Tags="|cutting|measurement|cut|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15137" CreationDate="2024-02-02T13:14:32.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It’s hard to know what’s going wrong with your measurement, except to say that things in the real world are often neither level nor plumb. Assessing level and plumb with a decent 4’ spirit level is the first step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, here’s a few random tips/ideas that might help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If reading a tape bent into a corner isn’t accurate enough for you, measure up and down to a point in the middle. If I have a wall to measure, I’ll measure from the floor up to 50 inches and make a mark. Then measure down to the mark and add. 50” is an arbitrary number, but it’s easy to add that to whatever the upper half number is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tape measure tips are notorious for being loose and inaccurate when pushing versus pulling. If you need to be really accurate, start at the 10 inch mark on the tape and measure from there. Hereinafter known as ‘burn 10’. 10cm is fine if you swing that way. Don’t burn 1 because math(s) is hard and 29 can turn into 30 or 28 very easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measure from multiple points to figure out where to put a junction box hole. Start by measuring from one side and the floor to give your best estimate of where the hole should go. Then check your work from the other side and the ceiling. You can even check from a corner diagonally. Somewhere along the line it should be evident where the box really is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you’re still nervous about the cutout for the junction box, sneak up on it. If it’s a 2x3 box, cut a 1x2 hole, put the panel in place and see where to cut more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cut too much, check the electrical aisle for oversized cover plates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For strange awkward cutouts like rafter notches and angles, make a cardboard template. Cut the cardboard close to correct, then butt additional bits of cardboard or painter’s tape up to the exact cut point. Then figure out exactly where your cardboard template fits on your bigger panel by measuring from multiple reference points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don’t forget painter’s caulk as a fix-all for those unfortunate cracks and gaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It’s such good advice from @graphus that I had to edit it in: measure THRICE, cut once.  (The parallel joke is, of course, “I cut it three times and it’s still too short!”)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other rule I follow is, “no math in the morning”. I will literally pull out my construction calculator (apps exist) to divide 29-3/8” by two. This might just be me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastEditorUserId="503" LastEditDate="2024-02-03T15:18:58.350" LastActivityDate="2024-02-03T15:18:58.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15139" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-02T19:24:59.473" Score="1" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made this chess board then accidentally left it in a garage for a few months before finishing it, causing a very significant warp presumably due to humidity changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I'm considering:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gluing wood spars along the bottom/sides that would force it back into shape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Steaming it with a clothes steamer then clamping it flat and letting it slowly dry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some combination of the two?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6TOTx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6TOTx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2yju1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2yju1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15248" LastActivityDate="2024-02-02T20:50:56.087" Title="What would be the best way to unwarp this chess board?" Tags="|warp|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15139" CreationDate="2024-02-02T20:50:56.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like you have glued the squares to a thin piece of plywood or particle board. The glue-up will put pull that side of the board up if there is no equal pull on the opposite side. IF the mounting panel had been thick enough you may have avoided this problem (maybe). If you look at plywood, it always has an odd number of layers for exactly that reason. It might be possible to fix this by gluing a new layer on the under side, placing the new layer under the board,  and applying enough weight to the entire surface to hold it flat during its dry-up. Otherwise, start over (no guarantees).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2024-02-02T20:50:56.087" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15142" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-03T23:45:50.613" Score="1" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to build a dining table. Current plan is 8ft x 4ft with two pillars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My goals are to avoid:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;People sitting down and banging their knee on some out-of-sight component,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The table pillars breaking under the stress&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The table to be stable when someone leans on one of the sides.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this in mind, are there any rules of thumb for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The distance away from the edge to keep the components (e.g. the pillar should be 16&amp;quot; from the end, or whatever),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The thickness of the pillar (current thought is the pillars will be 2&amp;quot; slabs, with a semi-circle(ish) cut from the sides to make a kind of hour glass when viewed from the end of the table. What thickness should the thinnest part of the hourglass be? (And with reference to criteria 1, how wide and deep should the thickest part be?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How wide should the pedestal be to be stable? Again, any rules of thumb that woodworkers know? A back of the envelope suggests that it's more stable than you'd think. Even if the center of mass was at the top of the table (30&amp;quot; up) and your legs were only two feet wide, you'd need to tilt it by 20° before it was falling. I haven't calculated the torque needed yet, so I'll do that, but I seem to remember doing so before and being pleasantly surprised.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I'd love to know how experienced woodworkers thing about this problem, and if there are rules of thumb that I ought to know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I sketched out a rough shape in tinkercad. This is a rectangular approximation, but might make my question clearer. I'm going to try do some strength analysis to see where it needs to be strengthened, and the corners would not be as sharp as indicated here. There are still multiple variations I'm playing with, but hopefully, this makes it clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Side view:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fGPzU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fGPzU.png&quot; alt=&quot;Side view&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Length is 8'. Cross beams are 5' (so the overhang is 1.5' on either side) All wood is 2&amp;quot; thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a rule of thumb for that 1.5' overhang?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;End view:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qlzsz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qlzsz.png&quot; alt=&quot;End view&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Width is 4'. Pillar is 1'. Pedestal and support are 3'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a rule of thumb for the pedestal and support widths?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a rule of thumb for the dimensions of the main support pillar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Three quarter view&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ilUf2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ilUf2.png&quot; alt=&quot;threequarter&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;because why not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tinkercad.com/things/h6QPdfZZsNS-dining-table?sharecode=nTnO9uU6EZqjIvbEe-nNlsG6C-4dNTeNAoQiofgyDUU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link to the tinkercad&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5783" LastEditorUserId="5783" LastEditDate="2024-02-14T17:08:20.000" LastActivityDate="2024-02-14T17:08:20.000" Title="Rules of thumb for dimensions on a dining table" Tags="|table-making|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15142" CreationDate="2024-02-04T15:02:14.370" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are published numbers for some of the info you want here, but you're in a better position (haha, sort-of pun intended) to get the numbers you actually &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; by actually measuring, with your legs and those of other family members or friends, on your seats, with the various preferred sitting postures of everyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way you won't fall foul of the problem of theoretical numbers versus real-world situations (which don't always line up the way they're supposed to).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just in general on one aspect, it's almost impossible to completely avoid the possibility of building in a toe-stubber, since anyone slouching back and extending their legs under a table could potentially run into virtually every possible leg/central spindle arrangement if they do it carelessly in the wrong position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How wide should the pedestal be to be stable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stability of the table is subject to many variables, not least of which is the sheer mass of the whole thing and thence its centre of gravity. Without complex mathematics I think the only way to find this out is empirically — so it's a &lt;em&gt;built it and see&lt;/em&gt;. However, since the top is intended to be 8' x 4' (default size for a full sheet of almost all manmaded boards) you can testbed this quite well using a couple/three full sheets of ply, MDF etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2024-02-04T15:02:14.370" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15142" CreationDate="2024-02-04T15:20:56.580" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on your sketch, there are several things to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The table-top is very thin and will need additional support to help keep it flat. You can see in the side view that the top can sag in the middle between the two pedestals. The table should be supported by a continuous apron (3&amp;quot;-4&amp;quot;) near the perimeter and closer to the center each way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The side view shows that the table-top will have a tendency to rack to the left and right.  Think of the connection point of the top and pedestals like a hinge. There is not enough connection to resist the racking so the hinge is free to move. Since the pedestals are wider in the perpendicular direction, the hinge action is contained and racking in that direction will not occur. You can address that racking by creating a connecting frame between the pedestals just below the top.  This will also serve to support the top from sag.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The end view illustrates the problem for resisting a tip over if someone leans heavily on the edge of the top. If the base of the pedestal is narrow, the table can easily tip. While the pedestals do not need to be wide over their entire height, they should have wide feet and be internally adequate structurally to resist tipping.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your issue regarding knee banging may be a minor concern.  If the pedestals are set back adequately at the long edges to accommodate seating there, the location of the sides should be easy to fit where seats actually are.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Another concern will be wood movement. If the top is plywood or other sheet goods, then connecting the top and base will not be a problem.  If the top is solid wood, then you need to consider how the top and base connect more carefully. (There are lots of questions on this site to review dealing with wood movement.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like with many furniture design concerns, there are a lot of answers found in visiting a furniture store with a tape measure, pad and pencil. You can try out a number of options and if it works there, it will work for your design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2024-02-04T15:20:56.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15145" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-04T18:55:10.507" Score="0" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this small project of bevelling the edge on a 3 1/2&amp;quot; x 2 1/2&amp;quot;  piece of 1/2&amp;quot; plywood. I'm replacing and duplicating a damaged platform on which an audio speaker foot rests. I will be bevelling 2 sides which are cross grained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notwithstanding using a router which I don't have, I'd appreciate input and advice from experienced woodworkers on the plane they'd use for this. (I'm trying to find out if there would be a specific type of plane/bed angle that would be more effective on 1/2&amp;quot; ply.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15252" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2024-02-06T07:43:10.347" LastActivityDate="2024-02-06T08:25:58.593" Title="Plane to produce beveled edges on plywood?" Tags="|plywood|hand-planing|bevels|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15145" CreationDate="2024-02-05T14:04:03.227" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since plywood will inherently give you a cross grain planing situation (no matter which edge of your rectangles you're working with) which can be difficult, and you give no indication whatsoever of the quality of the plywood you're working with, I'd suggest an alternative:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sand it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With heavy grit sand paper, you'll probably make quick progress even if doing it by hand. Then as you approach your bevel angle, you can switch to finer paper to sneak up on the final bevel, then finish with a very fine grade for a nice finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2024-02-05T14:04:03.227" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15145" CreationDate="2024-02-06T08:25:58.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd appreciate input and advice from experienced woodworkers on the plane they'd use for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't have a preference, as long as the iron in the plane were good and sharp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I frequently do have need to plane the edges of plywood and I pretty much split the task equally between a block plane and a no. 4, depending on mood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; it's only because the workpiece is quite small that it argues against using anything longer. In general you can use any plane up to an 8 to plane a plywood edge but I think anything longer than a 4 (approximately) would just be too unwieldy here. &lt;em&gt;If the workpiece is held and you're running the plane over it.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are alternatives though, one that's sometimes used when the workpiece is small, and that is to &lt;em&gt;hold the plane in a vice and push the workpiece over it&lt;/em&gt;. Yes there is potential for running the fingers into the cutting edge doing it this way so care must be exercised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I'm trying to find out if there would be a specific type of plane/bed angle that would be more effective on 1/2&amp;quot; ply.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly, no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the presence of end grain on each alternate ply in plywood, a common answer to this in modern woodworking would be to use a block plane&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, because of the perceived wisdom about planing any end grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quite apart from standard bench planes being quite capable of planing end grain&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; (even if not ideal for the task) it is worth remembering that all the other plies are oriented the other way, i.e. they present long-grain surfaces on the same edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So even if one did have a firm preference for a bevel-up plane for end grain and a double-iron plane otherwise, you have to decide on your acceptable compromise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; And by extension in recent years a bevel-up smoother or bevel-up jack plane, because they have the same basic geometry and blade arrangement (single blade, held with the bevel on top).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Set fine, and with the blade extremely sharp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2024-02-06T08:25:58.593" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15148" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-06T21:04:30.037" Score="1" ViewCount="43" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on building a plinth base for some cabinets that will go on top of carpet (I'm not at the stage for ripping out carpet just yet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my experience it can be a little bit fiddly getting things on carpet to be level, so I'm looking for a bit of advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GA27-ZwSLGY&amp;amp;ab_channel=Geoff%27sJoinery&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This video from Geoff's joinery&lt;/a&gt; shows the general design I have seen when it comes to plinth bases&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N2UPH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N2UPH.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The video uses some kitchen cabinet style plastic adjustable feet, however he does show off some metal ones that would be easier to adjust by drilling a hole through the bottom of any cabinet sat atop it, kind of like Ikea Pax wardrobes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TrGtam.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TrGtam.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just wondering if there was a tried and true method of levelling a plinth like this on carpet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8149" LastEditorUserId="8149" LastEditDate="2024-02-07T09:38:49.310" LastActivityDate="2024-02-07T09:38:49.310" Title="Levelling cabinet base plinth on carpet" Tags="|boxes|carcass|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15149" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-07T12:10:15.143" Score="0" ViewCount="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to coat some exterior timber and have a tin of Sikkens Cetol Filter 7 lying around.  There are many references online to using Cetol HLS as a primer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if a primer is essential under Cetol Filter 7, and if so whether oil based stains in general would be suitable (products other than HLS)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15263" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2024-02-07T16:35:17.433" LastActivityDate="2024-02-07T16:35:17.433" Title="Alternative primers for Sikkens Cetol Filter 7?" Tags="|staining|water-protection|oiling|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15150" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-09T23:29:28.003" Score="0" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought this desk recently from Amazon. The edge of the desk is a little sharp for my liking so I'm thinking about buying a fine sandpaper (320 grit?) to sand it down a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this safe to do?  I asked chat gpt and it said it was safe just want a second opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0C73BXBTS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Link to Amazon product page&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/43Dmh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/43Dmh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CO7lt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CO7lt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15271" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2024-02-16T17:55:47.707" LastActivityDate="2024-02-16T17:55:47.707" Title="Is it safe to sand sharp edges off of this manufactured desk?" Tags="|finishing|sanding|mdf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15153" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-11T00:05:21.190" Score="0" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've tried twice to resaw wood and both times experienced bad cupping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be clear, the cupping happens &lt;em&gt;immediately&lt;/em&gt;. This is NOT a case of moisture causing the wood to cup overnight. I've read up on how to prevent that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also tried the trick of spraying one side in hopes the wood will straighten back a bit but with no success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is twofold. First is, is it likely that this is a result of internal stress being released... meaning that it's unavoidable and my only option is joint and plane. Or is it possible that my technique might be to blame? In the more recent case I tried to resaw a 2x4 on a table saw. I cut 49% of the way on both sides then snapped it off and hand planed the tiny middle section off. In another case I had a wider board that was too big to saw in half with power tools so I used a hand saw to do it manually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8139" LastActivityDate="2024-02-11T09:52:09.707" Title="Can cupping be prevented when resawing 2x4?" Tags="|resawing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15153" CreationDate="2024-02-11T09:52:09.707" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be clear, the cupping happens immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it happens immediately the cause is not moisture loss as you say (although that will continue to cause issues as the formerly wetter interior surfaces dry out) it is tensions in the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of this might be innate tension in the wood itself from how the tree grew, i.e. &lt;strong&gt;reaction wood&lt;/strong&gt;. But with 2x material — especially in the smaller dimensions, with 2x4s possibly being the worst examples everywhere — it's very likely to be primarily due to &lt;strong&gt;case hardening&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2x4s, as bottom-tier construction wood, are well known for not being dried enough and hand in hand with this is that they are frequently or mostly dried too fast in the kiln, a sure recipe for case hardening. The two together are why 2x4s in particular are notorious for how often and how badly they can warp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Safety note&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;For reference for any future readers unfamiliar with this issue, these are reasons for the &lt;em&gt;absolute necessity&lt;/em&gt; of having a riving knife or splitter on a table saw. Assuming you do want to run it as safely as possible over the long term......&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When working with solid wood &lt;em&gt;of any kind&lt;/em&gt; it's not a question of whether you'll encounter reaction wood or case hardening, it's &lt;em&gt;when&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2024-02-11T09:52:09.707" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15150" CreationDate="2024-02-12T16:29:19.880" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm used to similar desks not having the fake wood right to the edge, but instead having a wood-ish colour curve, that also means the edge isn't harsh.  On the one I'm sitting at it's clearly that the plastic veneer on the edges is rather thick (about 1.5mm) and rounded to a nice smooth edge.  The one in your picture looks like it should be similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vcDyS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vcDyS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;plastic veneer on a desk&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might try to replicate that effect, but I'd try it on the back edge and corners first. Testing on the underneath edges is also an option although the underside may not   have the same finish as the more visible faces, so may feel different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also aim to take off the minimum material to just barely achieve what you're aiming for.  Some of these finishes can be very thin; they're the ones most likely to have an unpleasant edge.  To that end (if it didn't look unsightly tested at the back) I'd use a wooden sanding block with the sandpaper stuck to it, and do one stroke at a time along the entire length, aiming for a 45° angle and testing after each one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps finish with a stroke or two at 22.5° and 67.5° to make it close to round.  It may just feel like a slight burr on the top, in which case start flatter than my previous suggestion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Especially if it's more than just a slight burr, you might want to start with coarser sandpaper for the first few strokes.  I'd use either paint removal sandpaper or wet/dry silicon carbide paper, rather than basic glasspaper.  My stash of SiC paper is my goto choice for a lot of non-wood sanding; used wet it can provide a nice finish on metals and plastics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2024-02-13T08:57:00.173" LastActivityDate="2024-02-13T08:57:00.173" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15157" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-14T21:21:06.020" Score="0" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to replace two cupboard units of my old IKEA kitchen with one unit with three drawers. I have most of the parts planned, except for the attachment of the drawer fronts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the existing kitchen unit, the front of the drawer extends past the sides of the drawer. The front of the drawer is approx 1.2cm (~3/8&amp;quot;) thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Aetzt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Aetzt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am going to make wooden drawers. My first idea was to use a dovetail joint, but to do that, as far as I understand I need to use a piece of wood approximately twice as thick as the present front and cut out parts on the side, so the drawer front would be something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/74m2h.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/74m2h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could be doable, I know how to do a hidden dovetail joint, but in my opinion, it would not look good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I go around looking at other furniture I have in the house, an on a really old chest of drawers, I see joints like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wu4qJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wu4qJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also found the same joint on some drawers made by a carpenter in the early '80s. The principle seems just to be a dado in the front and a fitting end on the side, like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YBze0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YBze0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something to this joint that I do not understand? As far as I can see, I can make a cut in the front, about half the depth and 3-4 mm wide and make a fitting end on the side. I am pretty sure this is not as strong as a dovetail, the drawers will take kitchen utensils and I am planning to mount rails to make them silde easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2024-02-15T09:05:05.737" LastActivityDate="2024-02-15T09:05:05.737" Title="Alternative drawer joints" Tags="|joinery|drawer|drawer-construction|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15157" CreationDate="2024-02-15T00:45:00.810" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;An easier way to approach this is to build the drawer box using any number of strong corners such as dovetails, finger joints, biscuits or spline attached corners without the front face panel. Set the depth of the drawer box so that it comes flush with the face of the cabinet face where the drawer face would make contact. Then create a separate drawer face, as plain or decorative as you wish, of the correct height and width allowing for a gap between drawers.  This face can then be screwed to the drawer box from behind.  The advantage here is that you can adjust its position so that the face panel is perfectly aligned with the cabinet where it might not properly align if it was made before the drawer box is installed.  You can hold the face to the drawer box using double sided tape while adjusting its position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2024-02-15T00:45:00.810" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15157" CreationDate="2024-02-15T09:03:28.717" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first idea was to use a dovetail joint, but to do that, as far as I understand I need to use a piece of wood approximately twice as thick as the present front and cut out parts on the side...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes that's a standard way to do half-blind dovetails that are set back from ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth noting that you can 'cheat' to make your job easier doing half-blind dovetails and simply glue on a face after standard through-dovetailing. If you are careful with your grain matching (e.g. if you resaw a thick face board and simply glue it back together) nobody will be able to tell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some consider the end result faux half-blind dovetails, and it is often referred to as faking the joint, but really it's just another way to skin this particular cat — the joint is about the &lt;em&gt;result&lt;/em&gt;, not the &lt;em&gt;method&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could be doable, I know how to do a hidden dovetail joint, but in my opinion, it would not look good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This cuts to the heart of how subjective aesthetics are! Most people consider dovetails one of the most, if not the most, attractive joint there is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also found the same joint on some drawers made by a carpenter in the early '80s. The principle seems just to be a dado in the front and a fitting end on the side...&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Is there something to this joint that I do not understand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No it is pretty much exactly what it looks like. A couple of us talked about this in the Comments a while ago but I can't find the relevant Q. And while this is obviously not a really good way (there's no &lt;em&gt;best&lt;/em&gt;) to make drawers, it certainly does work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an old factory-made chest of drawers where the drawers are constructed in exactly this way. Every single drawer is still solid as a rock, after at least 40 years and it might even date from the late 60s or early 70s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am pretty sure this is not as strong as a dovetail&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this is probably a fair assumption as I say above in my Comment it's not necessary for us to overthink drawer construction (as we tend to, cos we're woodworkers). Except in unusual use-cases even drawers made &amp;quot;weakly&amp;quot; can hold up just fine, especially with modern drawer slides to provide permanent easy sliding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2024-02-15T09:03:28.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15160" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-15T22:57:40.397" Score="0" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made a nice wooden toy box from pine and plywood. I'd like to paint it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will get bashed around a bit! So I'm looking to achieve a tough finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done some research and am currently planning to spray it with acrylic paint (Liquitex) and then varnish it with gloss acrylic varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does that sound like a good approach and are there better ways to do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15288" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2024-02-16T08:39:30.937" LastActivityDate="2024-02-16T09:13:12.257" Title="Tough finish for a painted wooden toy box?" Tags="|finishing|paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15160" CreationDate="2024-02-16T09:13:12.257" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;am currently planning to spray it with acrylic paint (Liquitex) and then varnish it with gloss acrylic varnish.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Does that sound like a good approach and are there better ways to do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the gloss varnish you refer to is any of the Liquitex products then there are likely better ways to go. To start with artists' varnishes are not typically made for toughness of the same class as furniture varnishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furniture varnishes, especially polyurethane/poly, are made to be tough, intended to withstand daily handling, regular cleaning (which is surprisingly damaging to finishes), even direct contact with the unglazed surfaces of mugs, plates etc. and not just hold up for years but for a decade or longer ideally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll want a waterbased finish specifically, all oil-based varnishes are significantly yellowish/amber coloured and will impart this colouring even in a thin coating (and you'll want more than a thin coating for good protection). Waterbased finishes on the other hand are referred to a &amp;quot;water white&amp;quot;, and while the liquid finish will be milky in the container it will dry absolutely clear and colourless. Four coats should be considered a minimum here; I would use more personally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I won't recommend a specific product in part because finish choices can be very dependent on factors that include local availability, cost/perceived value, and even brand recognition. But as a general point I will say &lt;em&gt;don't buy the first thing that comes to hand at the DIY place/home centre or hardware store&lt;/em&gt;......  typically the cheapest consumer-level products are cheap for a very good reason! Not that you always get what you pay for with finishes — looking at you &amp;quot;hardwax oils&amp;quot; — but that's another day's discussion ^_^&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A quick word about the paint&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Artists' acrylic paints can have excellent colour-retention properties but they're not made to be physically tough and there are arguments in favour of also using a tough paint underneath a tougher varnish where you want to maximise durability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as your project is partly pine this is probably overkill — stronger paints being ideally suited to harder substrates, especially metals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2024-02-16T09:13:12.257" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15162" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-16T14:36:01.487" Score="1" ViewCount="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;100% novice zero experience with wood&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Building a day bed for a campervan... I didn't have the biggest budget for materials. I bought a 5 layer bcx plywood and premium stud 2x4s to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sanded them and am ready to assemble, but I'd like to seal the wood somehow, but I don't like the idea or look of painting. I have several questions... But I guess I should ask first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I assemble the piece first or stain the wood first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for any insights into the pproject!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15290" LastEditorUserId="15290" LastEditDate="2024-02-16T21:34:48.073" LastActivityDate="2024-02-17T08:28:05.473" Title="Staining mid to low quality wood" Tags="|staining|plywood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15164" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-17T02:44:49.813" Score="-1" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve got a 4’x8’ sheet of 5/8” sheathing plywood. It’s got knots and the surface is not smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But hey, I got it for a few dollars. I’ve straightened it out. I’d like to make a few boxes for friends. And even though it’s cheap rough stuff, I still want to make the plywood look good and even feel good too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m not expecting a lot, but what can be done to make this stuff look and feel fine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15114" LastActivityDate="2024-03-06T19:20:58.683" Title="How do you make construction plywood look better?" Tags="|finishing|plywood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15162" CreationDate="2024-02-17T08:28:05.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to seal the wood somehow&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prior to the edit you mention you have some waterbased poly and that would be fine for this. It will minimally change the colour of the materials you're using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not every surface needs to have finish applied — if you look at existing wooden furniture you'll see that finish is often skipped for non-show surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend you use at least two coats everywhere you do apply the poly, mainly because just one coat of almost every finish rarely looks perfectly uniform. Add more coats on any surface that you envisage experiencing more wear, up to perhaps a maximum of four.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note on curing:&lt;/strong&gt; it's important to let the finish cure before putting an item into service because only after full cure is a finish as tough and, importantly in this context, non-tacky as it can be. The on-pack instructions or the manufacturer's product page should give you an idea on how long this will take, but a good rough rule of thumb is about a month. If something must be put into service before then one should wait a full week at minimum before &lt;em&gt;light&lt;/em&gt; use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I assemble the piece first or stain the wood first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether to finish parts or all of a project prior to assembly is very much a personal preference, often driven by the nature of the project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example it's not uncommon to pre-finish &lt;em&gt;parts&lt;/em&gt; of a bookshelf or cabinet prior to building, for various practical reasons, but much rarer for a table because its simpler construction doesn't benefit from it as much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;About stain here&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;There's absolutely no requirement to stain wood, unless you specifically want to change the colour. That is stain's one and only job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please be aware that both cheap ply and construction wood are not noted for staining well if stained conventionally. &amp;quot;Gel stain&amp;quot;, as you were originally thinking of using, is probably the best product for colouring projects made from both of the materials you've bought..... assuming you don't want to paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2024-02-17T08:28:05.473" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15166" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-17T18:33:39.643" Score="0" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem on a fresh soft cedar wood project, scratching easy with Varathane-Premium-Diamond Wood Finish-Water Based-Interior-Satin. Steel wool &amp;amp; vinegar stain dryed for 24 hours. Shop temp 15-18 DegC (59-65 DegF)(witin spec).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1st Coat- Light sand to knock out raised grain (220grt), Varathane coat applied with brissel brush, let set overnight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2nd Coat- light sand with fine grit sand pad (330grt) (nice powder from sanding), wipe clean damp cloth &amp;amp; let dry, diluted Varathane with 20% water (maybe where I went wrong but people do this all the time &amp;amp; stirred it well just before use), (10CC Water/40CC Varathane), applied with brissel brush and smoothed with foam brush immediatly, let set over night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3rd coat- Light sand (330grt), good powder, wiped down &amp;amp; dry, same diluted 20% water/80% Varathane solution. Dried in good shop temp for 3 days, then shop temp dropped to about 10degC (50degF) for 2 weeks to cure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem- After the two weeks my finger nail scratched the surface super easy!&#xA;I can't sand down too much or the stain will be effected. I usually use gloss and not in Varathane brand (i.e., Min Wax Poly) and never had this problem before. I am thinking to switch type of finish with different brand and mabye not satin. This bench needs to be durable &amp;amp; I intend many more coats. I see this issue popping up with the Varathane Satin finish but everyone blames the applicator. Maybe there is something wrong with Varathane or dilting was my downfall. My sample stains and coats were done in same temps of shop with non-diluted Varathane-Fast Drying-Professional-Clear Finish-Water based and I just tested it and it's scratching pretty easy too, but not quite as easy. I don't want to mess this up as the wood it was built from is the last wood from my late father's property.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe it's only scratching easy because it is a softwood and I need to just keep going with coats undiluted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qT9h6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qT9h6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cedar_Varathane_Diamomd_Satin_Scratch&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15295" LastEditorUserId="15296" LastEditDate="2024-03-08T17:56:42.780" LastActivityDate="2024-03-08T17:56:42.780" Title="Why would Varethane-Premium-Diamond Wood Finish-Water Based-Interior-Satin scratch easy?" Tags="|polyurethane|finish-selection|softwood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15167" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-19T04:01:55.667" Score="0" ViewCount="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;Total rookie move here. My husband cut baseboard, trim and shoe molding (pre-fab kind from Lowe’s) and asked me to stain it. He had a gel stain so I wiped it on and then wiped off the excess. Unfortunately I DID NOT sand the trim first and now it’s all blotchy looking and none of the pieces match. Can I fix this somehow or do we need to go buy more trim and start over?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15300" LastActivityDate="2024-02-19T06:47:06.120" Title="How do I fix gel stained trim that I failed to sand first?" Tags="|staining|sanding|trim|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15167" CreationDate="2024-02-19T06:47:06.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I fix this somehow or do we need to go buy more trim and start over?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be able to sand this out, but it could easily be faster and at the end of the day cheaper, to just buy fresh. Certainly less effort!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you sand you do start with the advantage that &amp;quot;gel stain&amp;quot;, unlike conventional stains, doesn't penetrate wood that much; it's actually intended not to in fact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, wood being wood, it still does penetrate a little on any surface and can penetrate far more deeply than you'd like on any patch where there's 'rising grain' — where the flow of grain is not parallel/nearly parallel to the surface but instead meets the surface at an angle. This is not at all uncommon, especially on ungraded wood of any species, but is notoriously common on all common softwoods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this might not have been entirely about the wood not being sanding. Although the result might have been better if you had sanded, the wood itself could quite easily have been mostly responsible for the blotchy outcome. Sometimes wood is just like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2024-02-19T06:47:06.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15166" CreationDate="2024-02-19T08:12:02.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think fundamentally this is going to be unanswerable because we aren't there to examine it in the flesh, look at some variables including how soft the unfinished wood is, and perhaps most critically to run some comparisons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of possible causes I'll repeat and expand upon the stuff from my Comments above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Curing?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The main thing &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be that the finish hasn't fully cured yet (although my personal bet would be that that is not the only factor).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No finish can be assumed to be as hard and tough as it's going to get — exhibiting its full potential in terms of scratch resistance, among other properties — until after full curing. Waiting two weeks certainly isn't nothing, but it could still be slightly too short a wait.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dilution?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The other contributing factor could well be the dilution, although that's impossible to say&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. However for waterbased finishes in general dilution is simply not necessary — they're plenty watery and exhibit good brushing properties straight from the container. &lt;em&gt;And dilution is often not advised by the manufacturers&lt;/em&gt;; where it is, 5% up to &lt;em&gt;a max of 10%&lt;/em&gt; would not be unusual&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. 20% water could be way too much and undermine how the finish performs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other variables&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Temperature and relative humidity are the big two in terms of how finishes first dry and then cure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of us don't work in the textbook conditions mentioned in the manufacturer's guidelines unfortunately, but any deviation downwards in temperature and/or upwards in humidity can have a pronounced effect, slowing drying or curing significantly&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10°C/50°F is well below the ideal drying temp for waterbased finishes in general — a full 11°C/20°F below the usually mentioned ideal conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bottom line, test first&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This is unfortunately a prime example of why it's important to always, &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt;, test a new finishing routine and doubly so if using a new-to-you finish (no matter how well rated, even by trusted authorities).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people even go one step further and consider every new tin of finish, even an old favourite, an unknown and test it before committing to a project piece. This is sound practice, because batch variations and possible mistakes in formulation are not unheard of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Some finishes that aren't supposed to be diluted do actually perform quite well when diluted, but other superficially similar finishes don't. So it's impossible to know in advance and why testing should be done if one wants to dilute for any reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Such as High Performance from General Finishes, &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;Thin as desired with &lt;strong&gt;distilled water&lt;/strong&gt;; start with 5%, adding &lt;strong&gt;up to 10% by volume&lt;/strong&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt; [my emphasis]. Follow &lt;a href=&quot;https://generalfinishes.com/wood-finishes-retail/water-based-topcoats-and-sanding-sealer/high-performance-polyurethane-water&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt; for more details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; This is especially important with waterbased finishes which might have only one shot to dry properly. On the other hand oil-based finishes will continue to cure no matter what.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2024-02-19T08:12:02.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15171" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-19T21:50:27.840" Score="0" ViewCount="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;Total newbie here. Building a bed frame for campervan. Wanted to seal the wood somehow after sanding. Finally decided just a poly coating would be the answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Went to apply the finish and read the directions like a newbie does... It says recommend using in temps 60-90 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's not getting up to those temps during the day yet.... Also I've been staying in the van already. I don't have a residence to bring up the inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I put the finish on. I planned on doing so outdoors. In order to minimize fumes. While the wood was drying I planned on letting it sit inside a storage unit... I don't want to bring the wood inside my van till any fumes are gone.... So this is my question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will applying the finish in temps under 45 degrees be okay, the wood will be stored for a 24-48 hour period to dry, but in a climate controlled unit that is only 60 degrees? Will this cause unforseen problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15290" LastActivityDate="2024-02-20T13:06:35.293" Title="Can I use a poly finish on unstained wood in cold temps?" Tags="|finishing|furniture|polyurethane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15171" CreationDate="2024-02-19T22:56:55.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your finish may never dry/cure, and if it does, it may not adhere very well to the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manufacturers put recommended temp ranges on their products because, whether they've tested them outside these ranges or not, they're not willing to back them if they're applied outside these ranges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can, of course, apply it and see what happens, but there's a significant chance that you won't be happy with the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest that you simply use the bed frame as-is until Spring temperatures warm up enough to give you 4-5 days of consistent night-time temperatures &lt;em&gt;no lower&lt;/em&gt; than the minimum recommended on the can. Apply your finish then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2024-02-20T13:06:35.293" LastActivityDate="2024-02-20T13:06:35.293" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15173" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-20T00:35:04.603" Score="0" ViewCount="60" Body="&lt;p&gt;The worktable on my bandsaw is not flat. It's die cast aluminum. I should have returned it when it was still under warranty, but I didn't use it a lot and didn't really realize there was a problem until now that I'm trying to make some more precise cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the problem is the angle support (circled in the picture). I thought about trying to bend the table into place but then realized it would just go back to the shape of angle support. Although, as I'm writing this, I wonder if I could add a washer to push the left side into better alignment. Guess I'll try it out and report back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be clear, the left side is flat and the right side is flat. The problem is that whichever side I align with the blade, the other half will tilt down toward the side by a degree or so. So this makes it difficult to push a piece of wood down the center with it wanting to wobble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ycohz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ycohz.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8139" LastEditorUserId="8139" LastEditDate="2024-02-20T22:16:42.987" LastActivityDate="2024-02-21T14:41:44.970" Title="How to make an uneven bandsaw worktable even?" Tags="|band-saw|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15174" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15176" CreationDate="2024-02-20T12:32:52.597" Score="3" ViewCount="233" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a console as shown below (not to scale). The boards are 5 cm (2 inches) thick pine. The sides are joined to the top using dovetails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not assembled this yet but I am concerned about racking. What would be a traditional / time-tested way to reinforce something like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have thought of three options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A shelf attached with dadoes &amp;amp; tenons. This seems right, but I am not sure it will be useful as a shelf, and if not, it will take up more space than other options.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A reinforcement bar with a vertical cross-section. Is a mortise &amp;amp; tenon joint appropriate here provided the bar is small?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A dovetailed reinforcement bar on the back. Would this work w.r.t. wood movement? One advantage is that I can add it after the initial glue-up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xv0XD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xv0XD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;console plan&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10115" LastActivityDate="2024-02-20T14:13:46.613" Title="Reinforcing a console" Tags="|joinery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15175" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-20T13:06:05.197" Score="0" ViewCount="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an African Grey Parrot and she goes through colored parrot blocks like crazy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to make my own parrot toys out of wood, but I have no idea what to color the wood with. It seems like the typical colors are; yellow, red, blue, green.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have experience making colored wooden toys for parrots?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9500" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2024-02-20T18:12:37.177" LastActivityDate="2024-02-20T18:12:37.177" Title="Is there a parrot grade stain?" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15174" CreationDate="2024-02-20T14:04:50.197" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Always need triangles to prevent racking.  Your options 2 and 3 are the most viable to do that. Though the 3rd option I might try 2 of them across, though the wider it is the better it would be at preventing racking.  This is why so many pieces of furniture have the entire back covered with thin sheet material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the back side is going to be against a wall, the easiest would be to literally screw triangles into the back top corners, they will prevent all racking.  You can also hide them a little more and make them smaller by putting in 4 just a few inches back from the edge on each corner, making it a nice 'feature', that is partially hidden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2024-02-20T14:13:46.613" LastActivityDate="2024-02-20T14:13:46.613" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15177" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-20T16:55:20.580" Score="2" ViewCount="47" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m trying to refinish an old oak table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I stripped it with Klean Strip™ premium stripper, two rounds to get all varnish off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sanded with a 150 grit. Then I cleaned with mineral spirits. Then let it dry overnight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then I sanded back to 120 as I wanted to bleach it, and cleaned with TSP substitute&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point there were still some darker spots but I was sure I had gotten the varnish off so thought it might be old stain that would come off. Let that dry overnight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I then bleached it one round with a&amp;amp;b solution.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let it dry overnight and this morning sanded with 80 grit and then a 150.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It still looks splotchy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Do I try another bleach round for evenness?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I originally just wanted to have a lighter shade, get rid of the orange and give it a weathered look with a more grey brown stain- but the ultra dark sides and splotchy areas weren't really the effect I wanted for a rustic vibe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oUigd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oUigd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15306" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2024-02-22T10:47:04.123" LastActivityDate="2024-03-23T11:01:20.227" Title="Will splotchy bleached wood stain evenly?" Tags="|tabletop|refinishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15177" CreationDate="2024-02-22T10:45:25.543" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point there were still some darker spots but I was sure I had gotten the varnish off so thought it might be old stain that would come off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I try another bleach round for evenness?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No I don't think the table is ready for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although I'm not recommending other aspects of the video specifically (or the channel itself), take a look at the really consistent colouring of the wood surfaces revealed by the use of the sander in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E9eH1Q9VGqs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; from Modern Makeovers, timestamps 2:49, 3:06 and 3:14. That's pretty much the level of uniformity one should be aiming for when stripping is completed&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the wood in the video is something like maple or birch, both close-grained woods unlike the oak you're working with, but the same principle does apply up to a point — ideally the wood should look basically like new when you're done stripping and a modicum of scraping or sanding has been done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With oak (also ash, chestnut, sassafras and elm) one might have to accept remaining finish left in the open grain because scraping or sanding to the bottom of it would simply remove too much wood. &lt;em&gt;This goes double if there's any veneer present&lt;/em&gt;, as there appears to be in the central field of your tabletop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stripping in the real world&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Stripping manufacturers don't want buyers to know this as it'll put a lot of them off, but an old standard for stripping by hand, i.e. not done by dipping (full immersion in tanks of a stripping agent) was that everything should be stripped &lt;em&gt;three times&lt;/em&gt;....... Once is pretty much never enough. Two frequently leaves a little bit behind in some areas (which might or might not be removable by other means such as a scraping or a wipe with lacquer thinner or acetone). Three is sort of the sweet spot to getting the wood really pristine, at least with a really good stripper....&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Some stains that appear to be from other effects &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; still be present and require separate attention, e.g. oxalic acid for dark stains or solvent poultices for oil stains. Note that some stains can be stubborn and not respond to anything unfortunately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; It's important to mention that because non-pros in most parts of the world are no longer allowed access to strippers based on methylene chloride (because of hand-wringing worries about consumer safety and campaigning from pressure groups) the simple fact is that most consumer-level strippers are made from less-effective chemicals. It's widely documented in user reports how &lt;em&gt;ineffective&lt;/em&gt; some of these are against certain finishes or layers of finishes, requiring multiple rounds to get the job done. As a result it wouldn't be impossible to take on a job that requires stripping five times or more if there's enough finish present, or it's particularly stubborn chemically :-(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2024-02-22T10:45:25.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15181" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-22T21:51:54.977" Score="1" ViewCount="55" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a sofa that has detachable wooden legs with a bolt attached directly into the legs. Across the length and width of the couch, there are support beams that are permanently mounted to the frame of the sofa, and on the interior of each corner, there is a diagonal beam that spans between the two main support beams. The detachable legs are secured against the two perpendicular support beams at each corner by passing the bolt through the diagonal beams, and tightening a wing nut/washer combo against that diagonal beam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in essence, the only thing holding the legs to the couch is the pressure against the support beams provided by the tightened nut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since there is no real &amp;quot;joint,&amp;quot; the legs are incredibly unstable, and the couch wiggles quite a bit. I finally decided I might try a temporary solution by gluing the faces of the legs to the support beams. Despite being a complete beginner in woodworking, I knew this wasn't going to be particularly secure, and while it worked for a while, I sat down with some force yesterday, and the glue did not withstand that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about adding some dowels, but I am not sure whether there is a better way to secure the legs against wobbling. I can't remove the support beams, just the legs. I, however, do not care whether the removability of the legs is maintained. I just want secure/sturdy legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15322" LastEditorUserId="15322" LastEditDate="2024-02-23T02:23:17.153" LastActivityDate="2024-02-23T02:23:17.153" Title="How to secure a &quot;basic&quot; butt joint where three pieces of wood intersect?" Tags="|joinery|technique|furniture|glue|dowel|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2024-02-27T15:21:58.763" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15182" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15184" CreationDate="2024-02-22T23:39:00.850" Score="1" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ulDYM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ulDYM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ruined sanding pad&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;This is the first sandpaper disc I put on my new sander earlier today.  The front is not even starting to wear out but as you can see the loop fabric on the back is trashed and it won't stick to the sander anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't push very hard and always let up if the sander starts to slow down.  The hooks aren't melted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I paid $15 for the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.walmart.com/ip/TACKLIFE-5-Inch-Random-Orbit-Sander-3-0A-With-12Pcs-Sandpapers-PRS01A/893444690&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tacklife sander and 12 discs from walmart.com&lt;/a&gt;.  Am I doing something wrong or do I just need higher quality pads?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15278" LastEditorUserId="15278" LastEditDate="2024-02-23T14:54:35.000" LastActivityDate="2024-02-23T14:54:35.000" Title="Are these sanding discs defective?" Tags="|sanding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15182" CreationDate="2024-02-23T14:46:26.817" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;To confirm, is that the &lt;em&gt;pad&lt;/em&gt; (the squishy part that attaches to the sander and has Velcro to attach a sanding disk to) or the &lt;em&gt;disk&lt;/em&gt; itself (the Velcro-backed replaceable disk with grit material)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case, you've got a &lt;em&gt;cheap&lt;/em&gt; sander and, I'm sure, &lt;em&gt;cheap&lt;/em&gt; sanding disks. The pad on the cheap sander will wear out &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; more quickly than it will on a quality sander. Cheap disks will also wear out/fail much more quickly than higher quality ones will and will often cost more in the long run because you'll go through many more cheap disks than you will high quality ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, when you're starting out, it's perfectly, 100% acceptable to start with cheap tools because going deep into debt to buy high quality tools (especially if it's a hobby and you're not sure you'll continue) just doesn't make sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technique &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; help prevent issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You really shouldn't press down hard on the sander at all.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The weight of the sander plus your hand resting on it to control &amp;amp; move it is sufficient. Pushing harder can bog down the motor, sometimes to the point of stopping the rotation or orbit, leading to excessive sanding in one spot, which just means that you've got to work even &lt;s&gt;harder&lt;/s&gt; longer to get a smooth finish.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pressure also builds heat which causes the disks to die even faster.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Excessive pressure can also reduce or prevent the extraction of dust from under the disk, reducing effectiveness and building more heat (see point above).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the sander at the proper rate across the board.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Graphus mentioned a &amp;quot;10 count per foot&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've seen recommendations of 1 second per inch of wood&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &amp;quot;pencil trick&amp;quot; is a very good indication that you're doing a quality sanding job&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using the broad side of a pencil (or a fat pencil like a carpenter's pencil) scribble across the surface of the board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sand until the pencil marks are gone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check your work. If it's satisfactory go on to the next higher grit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you see a spot that still has pencil marks, but &lt;em&gt;all around it&lt;/em&gt; the marks are gone, you've got a low spot on the board. Scribble on the whole thing and sand the whole surface again. Lather, rinse, repeat until you've got the whole thing flattened to that low spot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you simply sand the pencil marks out of that spot using the edge of the disk, you're just making the dip worse, not better.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that is the sanding pad going bad, you can purchase replacements. This would be a good opportunity to splurge an extra couple of $€£ for a quality replacement pad. Get one that's the same diameter as your sander (5&amp;quot; or 6&amp;quot;, most likely) and replace it. That's a simple and good place to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's the sanding disk itself, it's likely that it was just junk to begin with or that you've overheated it, causing all the issues noted above, plus getting it so hot that you're melting the Velcro on the back of the pad. &lt;em&gt;Go lightly&lt;/em&gt; with your next disks to reduce these issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's OK to use up the cheap disks you've got, using proper techniques and replacing the disks &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; more often than you'd expect, then replace the disks with higher quality ones. While a home-improvement center will sell you dirt cheap ones, they'll also sell higher quality ones. A wood worker's specialty store will sell even better quality ones. Most will help answer questions and guide you to a mid-range that are reasonably priced yet still better quality than WalMart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll be shocked at how much better a quality disk is and how much easier sanding is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2024-02-23T14:46:26.817" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15185" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-25T17:06:13.913" Score="0" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using salvaged wood and my project involves some boards sitting next to each other, so the bowing and crooking are easy to see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to nail 1x1's across the backs of the boards and anticipate that will flatten out the bowing.  I have 1x2's I could use if the extra strength would matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is planing their sides the best way to deal with the crooked boards?  I think I see 3 or 4 boards to plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The floor in my apartment isn't flat enough to judge boards on.  Is there an easy way to tell when I've got the edges flat or is making the boards match each other so there's no gap all I should worry about?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AfxMi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AfxMi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;salvaged boards&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VAhPV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VAhPV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;1x1s to be added behind&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After turning and re-ordering the boards this is what the back looks like.  I think adding a wood screw to 4-6 of those boards should resolve the bowing.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YAoS0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YAoS0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;gaps from bowing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15278" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2024-02-26T18:19:31.347" LastActivityDate="2024-02-26T18:19:31.347" Title="Can I handle bows and crooks with a hand plane?" Tags="|hand-planing|joints|bowing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15185" CreationDate="2024-02-26T09:03:17.037" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is planing their sides the best way to deal with the crooked boards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general yes, planing would be fundamental to how one normally prepares boards for glueing up; preparing long edges would be one of the key reasons for the hand-tool woodworker to own a jointer plane (although it &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; doable to use shorter planes for this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where a power jointer is available taking any sort of irregularity like this out of one edge of a board is one of the things it's specifically for (the other being flattening a board's first face).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Terminology note:&lt;/strong&gt; edges not sides. Boards have faces, edges and ends. &amp;quot;Side&amp;quot; can be unhelpfully vague because it may refer to a face or edge depending on the board's orientation or position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an easy way to tell when I've got the edges flat&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Up to a point you can learn to sight down boards for a good-enough read on when you have something flat (both faces and edges) but ideally one compares to a known straight edge — either an actual straightedge (made or commercial) or some decent stand-in like a long aluminium level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of how you get there, in addition to the regular testing against a straight edge/straightedge this is where winding sticks are utilised. Although they don't have to be, winding sticks are pretty much universally shop-made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rOjSt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rOjSt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;How to make wooden straightedge and winding sticks&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Source:&lt;/strong&gt; Popular Science, Dec 1942&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is making the boards match each other so there's no gap all I should worry about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sort of, but not generally in the way you're thinking. It's usually the &lt;em&gt;angle&lt;/em&gt; of an edge one matches&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; rather than planing one edge to match the irregularities of the next (as you might when fitting something to a wall, AKA scribing). Beyond that it's normally dead-straight edge to dead-straight edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, sometimes (rarely) one might deliberately leave a pair of edges &lt;em&gt;slightly&lt;/em&gt; hollow for what's called a 'sprung' joint; this is more relevant to hand-tool woodworking than it is to those relying on power tools (where they're not generally needed and harder or impossible to create anyway).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So how close to perfect is close enough?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Because wood is slightly flexible and glue joints are so strong — if done right they ARE stronger than the wood itself (see previous Answers for details) — within reason one can use clamp pressure to close up small gaps between boards when doing a glue-up. There's definitely some judgement required here but a useful rule of thumb is to consider any gap that you can close with hand pressure&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; small enough that you don't &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; to take it out.... although do so if you have the time and gumption because it is better practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;__&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Good enough for many purposes. But the higher-end the requirement, or the longer the surface, the more important it becomes to test rather than just rely on a visual read (although you should continue to test/practice this judgement forever if you're a hand-tool woodworker).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; So for example if one board's edge is 90° the next needs to be the same, but equally if one is 88° the next needs to be 92°; these are referred to as complementary angles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Although it's best if you never leave a gap near the ends because gaps are most likely to open up there over time; counteracting this tendency is precisely what the sprung joint was designed to counter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2024-02-26T09:03:17.037" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15190" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-28T11:58:44.017" Score="2" ViewCount="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read that a plane should be suitable for flattening a board about 2–2.5 times its length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also read (in several places) that with skill/care/attention one can extend this ratio. &lt;strong&gt;But what exactly is meant by that?&lt;/strong&gt; I don’t recall ever seeing an explanation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be clear, I am mainly interested in planing &lt;em&gt;faces&lt;/em&gt; in decent boards. For edges, I can cheat a little and prepare a reasonably straight edge with a track saw before taking a very thin shaving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a practical example, suppose I have a board that’s 200×32 cm, and my largest plane is 40 cm long (5× ratio). Even if I had a jointer/try plane, that would be about 3.5× at best. Concretely, what would I need to do differently, compared to a smaller board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. I am happy to accept that for this size, “if it looks flat, it’s flat”! Just curious if there are any specific techniques people are referring to but not naming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10115" LastActivityDate="2024-02-28T11:58:44.017" Title="Flattening a board with a shorter plane" Tags="|hand-planing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2024-02-29T08:11:23.907" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15191" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-28T16:03:50.603" Score="2" ViewCount="100" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Chicago Electric 12” compound sliding miter saw, model 98194. Instead of sliding straight, it slants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It veers by about 1/16” going from back to front. It cuts slanted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fence is square with the blade. The miter angle is 0 degrees, as is the bevel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blade is new, a 12” Diablo. I’ve tightened it. It is not loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are images showing the blade in its pushed back position and its pulled-forward position: &lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/a/37mupFK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://imgur.com/a/37mupFK&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RhrpI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RhrpI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VG7rq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VG7rq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NcutF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NcutF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dMNrr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dMNrr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15114" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2024-02-29T00:25:58.340" LastActivityDate="2024-02-29T00:25:58.340" Title="Why does my sliding miter saw go slanted down the line instead of straight?" Tags="|miter-saw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15191" CreationDate="2024-02-28T18:48:45.577" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I understand correctly, the gap to one edge of the kerf plate is larger when the blade is slid all the way forward than it is when it's slid all the way back. If that's a correct understanding, then I'd say that the slides on the saw aren't perpendicular to the fence or that the motor is, somehow, not mounted square on the carriage. Generally, this doesn't seem to be a setting that's fixable. I would be curious to know if the blade is still at 90° to the fence when it's slid all the way toward you (use a larger square to test this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that this is a manufacturing defect and that, unfortunately, you've gotten what you paid for&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt;. If it's still within 90 days of purchase, take it back to Harbor Freight, explain the issue, and it's &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; likely they'll go get a replacement from stock and give you a new one. If it's beyond 90 days, the warranty is up, and you may as well fiddle with it to see if you can get the slide mechanism adjusted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, I don't have a clue how you'd do that. I've not had to do that with either of the DeWalt miter saws I own, nor with my FIL's Rigid miter saw. At this point, though, the saw is, essentially, useless for making accurate cross-cuts (it's sole purpose in life), so starting the disassembly process isn't going to leave it any more broken than it already is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt;This isn't a slam on Harbor Freight in general. I'm a big fan of theirs and have had great success with many of their products. I don't, though, buy power tools from them unless it's for a very specific purpose. If I do and the tool lasts through the project I bought it for, I'm very happy. If it lasts &lt;em&gt;longer&lt;/em&gt; than that, I'm ecstatic! It's a matter of realizing what you're buying and being willing to take the associated risks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had a couple of their hand tools fail on me. I had absolutely zero questions when I returned them - they directed me to pick up a new one off the shelf, they scanned some barcodes, punched buttons on their register, gave me a new receipt and told me to have a good day. I'd imagine the return process on the saw will be similar if it's within the warranty period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2024-02-28T18:48:45.577" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15193" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15196" CreationDate="2024-02-29T13:46:59.713" Score="1" ViewCount="43" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am writing to ask about making maple blocks like these&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8FPam.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8FPam.png&quot; alt=&quot;wood blocks&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3f5M9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3f5M9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;other wood blocks&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have checked a few other posts here on stack exchange with regard to wood type and PU varnish, I will be using maple. I live in the EU and although beech is more available at hardware and big box brico stores, I want the lighter grain of maple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to achieve a result similar to the photos, good color with the woodgrain showing through. I am planning on doing a coat of acrylic paint followed by one or two coats of matte or satin (semi gloss) PU clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not important to be foodsafe or non toxic as it is for a sculpture, but i imagine that the orginal finishes are foodsafe and nontoxic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a bit concerned about the coloring as it seems in the photos that it doesnt cover that much, perhaps it should be diluted? I have experience painting with acrylic on canvas and paper and varnishing or sealing wood but never painting acryl on wood then varnishing afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7751" LastEditorUserId="7751" LastEditDate="2024-03-01T15:25:10.663" LastActivityDate="2024-03-02T08:21:37.840" Title="finishing maple block toys" Tags="|finishing|polyurethane|paint|toy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15193" CreationDate="2024-03-02T08:21:37.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a bit concerned about the coloring as it seems in the photos that it doesnt cover that much, perhaps it should be diluted?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The items pictured are likely finished in either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a waterbased finish, which typically are completely clear (water-white) once dry; they will minimally affect the colouring of wood and do little to alter the colour of paints that they're applied over (other than the usual thing with varnish of slightly decreasing saturation if the surface finish is made more matt);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a commercial two-part finish such as catalysed lacquer which can affect colour essentially the same as described above.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not clear if your intended finish is a waterbased one or oil-based varnish however; the terms poly/polyurethane/PU can be used as shorthand for both types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is the former you know what to expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's an oil-based varnish however expect a slight but noticeable yellowing of the wood even if applied thinly; I do personally think it's not an unpleasant colour change unless the varnish is applied quite heavily but personal taste is a huge factor here, with some people &lt;em&gt;absolutely hating&lt;/em&gt; this colouring in maple..... and of course it's not what you're after here based on the pictured blocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have experience painting with acrylic on canvas and paper and varnishing or sealing wood but never painting acryl on wood then varnishing afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Painting on wood with your acrylics won't present you with any new challenges :-) Paint adheres very well to wood even without a primer (the first coat keying nicely &lt;em&gt;as long as the wood is clean and freshly prepared&lt;/em&gt;). It should also apply well since typically maple is dense and fairly uniform, but do be aware that small patches of wood can be much more absorbent than others due to differences in grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've never used a waterbased poly previously and that's what you end up using I'd recommend a wide golden taklon brush for application. Try to apply in long, smooth strokes and don't overwork the finish once it's down on the surface. And I highly recommend practising on some scraps before committing to finishing your project pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2024-03-02T08:21:37.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15197" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15200" CreationDate="2024-03-02T17:46:59.837" Score="2" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;The back of my mortice chisel is not completely flat. Specifically, the corners of the cutting edge are both slightly shallower than the rest of the back face, meaning they aren't honed to form a sharp edge. Here you can see the remnants of permanent marker left  after dragging it across a fine diamond stone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6NwLI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6NwLI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my process for getting the back flat (it is essentially &lt;a href=&quot;https://paulsellers.com/2012/08/questions-answered-on-flattening-chisels/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this method from Paul Sellers&lt;/a&gt; but with plate glass instead of a granite block):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stick wet and dry sandpaper of 120, 180, 240 and 320 grit to a piece of plate glass&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wet the sandpaper using glass cleaner (it's just what I usually have to hand instead of water)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NEO0i.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NEO0i.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drag the chisel backwards over each grit of sandpaper a few hundreds times, working my way up through the grits&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move to fine, then extra fine, DMT diamond stones&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kskdR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kskdR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No matter how hard I try, I cannot get those corners to be flat with the rest of the back. What am I doing wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;About the plate glass&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I have checked that the glass is flat using a straight edge (manufacturer claims  tolerance is 0.042mm over 100mm). Perhaps the glass isn't flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is supported from below with rubber strips glued to almost all of the underside&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;About the chisel&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;It's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://workshopheaven.com/narex-mortice-chisels-8112&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Narex 12mm Mortice chisel&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9390" LastActivityDate="2024-03-04T09:09:52.377" Title="Why can't I flatten the back of my mortice chisel?" Tags="|sharpening|chisel|mortise-and-tenon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15198" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15201" CreationDate="2024-03-03T04:19:18.630" Score="2" ViewCount="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;First woodworking project here, sanding a table that had previously been stained to get it to be smoother. I worked my way up from 120 to 220 and then lightly sanded with 320. Now there are these funny white spots everywhere that sort of resemble skid marks. The white spots are slightly raised. Any idea what it could be? &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r0AN2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r0AN2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15348" LastActivityDate="2024-03-03T18:14:39.303" Title="White spots after sanding off stain" Tags="|sanding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15198" CreationDate="2024-03-03T08:21:33.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what the white spots are since you said they're raised, because the first impression was the reverse — that it was white finish left in depressions. But regardless, the wood hasn't been sanded enough. You can also see clear rotary marks from a table saw/circular saw/tracksaw blade, another sign wood hasn't been smoothed off enough&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When sanding to remove stubborn finish and/or to flatten — &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; the ideal way to do this — you may need to step down in grits to remove material efficiently. Use 80 at least and even 60 or lower sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may seem counterproductive to introduce such coarse sanding scratches but the time saved in the initial phase when removing lots of wood usually more than makes up for the &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; longer sanding time needed if starting with 120 or thereabouts. This is especially the case if using a typical rotary or random-orbit sander; these were originally intended as finish sanders only, and not for heavy material removal&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I worked my way up from 120 to 220 and then lightly sanded with 320.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI one almost never needs to sand wood to above the 180-240 range&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;. Any good finishing book will explain why this is the case and should also give pictorial examples, especially in relation to staining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should also explain why you generally want to complete sanding by hand-sanding in the direction of the grain if the last power sander to touch the wood was a rotary one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; By normal standards, 'rustic' stuff may retain such texture deliberately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Note this does not include some high-end rotary sanders made today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; There are exceptions, including if painting (150, even worn 120, can be enough) or when waxing or oil-finishing certain hardwoods, especially denser tropical species.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2024-03-03T08:21:33.157" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15197" CreationDate="2024-03-03T08:59:59.717" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short it's because once you get to nearly flat the amount of metal that needs to be removed becomes greater and greater, which can &lt;em&gt;enormously&lt;/em&gt; impact the speed of material removal — because you're aiming to flatten a huge swath of the back of this chisel think about the area of steel you're attempting to abrade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it's hotly debated in woodworking circles — and always will be :-) — there's generally no functional reason to completely flatten the back of any chisel, zero. This is including paring chisels and mortise chisels even though they are often held up as specific examples of where it's not just desirable but &lt;em&gt;necessary&lt;/em&gt; to get their backs flat. The necessity for this is proved false by examining vintage paring and mortise chisels that were used by craftsmen of previous generations..... although this simple fact does nothing to stifle the debate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much related info in one of my previous Answers, &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/13711/how-to-flatten-stubborn-hollow-on-the-back-of-a-plane-iron/13713#13713&quot;&gt;How to flatten stubborn hollow on the back of a plane iron?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're also not really using the ideal process or material for removing lots of steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drag the chisel backwards over each grit of sandpaper a few hundreds times, working my way up through the grits&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note first this is an inefficient way to remove lots of material anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And standard wet-and-dry is often not really up to this, being too friable/easily worn down. High-end paper/film will do better and last longer, but (debatably) &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; way to do this for most of us is simply to get an extremely coarse diamond plate. Not only will this abrade literally anything in the shop, including carbide, compared to most affordable options it's practically immortal. I've used an inexpensive 150 diamond plate for a few years now (regularly wishing I had an even coarser one BTW) and it seems to still work just as well as it did after the initial break-in period was over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally there's an inherent mistake here as well — moving up the grits too soon. Actually two, since it seems you're seeking to polish that whole swath of flattened back. Firstly you don't go up the grits until you're done, i.e. when the coarsest grit has done all the heavy lifting. And secondly, why polish the whole of back anyway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only the portion of steel right at the edge actually needs to be taken up through the grits since the edge is, of course, the only part that does any cutting :-) As mentioned in the above link I aim for only the narrowest strip to be dead flat and polished and the amount of time this can save, even on relatively soft vintage plane irons, is, ah, 'considerable' (massive understatement — on tougher steels it could be mere minutes versus &lt;em&gt;hours&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In support of this being enough for function, a fine hone on only a small portion of the back of a chisel or plane iron is nearly always what is observed on used vintage chisels/plane irons. And rarely, &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; rarely, will you find a chisel that was flattened over a significant length of the tool — significant numbers of older chisels retain their original slight camber, where they curve slightly towards the bevel side (this curvature could be introduced at quenching &lt;em&gt;and we should take note that it was deliberately not ground out at the factory&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2024-03-04T09:09:52.377" LastActivityDate="2024-03-04T09:09:52.377" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15198" CreationDate="2024-03-03T18:14:39.303" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with graphus's statement that it needs more sanding to get ride of those marks.  I would add, to save you a lot of sanding time.  If you have a hand plane such as a smoothing plane, you can remove those marked much faster than sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15349" LastActivityDate="2024-03-03T18:14:39.303" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15202" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15203" CreationDate="2024-03-04T22:47:30.397" Score="1" ViewCount="61" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p369s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p369s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;uneven wood&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;The back piece isn't attached yet.  I'd like it to line up with the side piece, instead of having that ˜3/32&amp;quot; difference in height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 43x2x3/32&amp;quot; piece of wood to put under it would be perfect but there's no way I can cut that with a 15&amp;quot; hand saw (the only saw I have).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What methods are appropriate for making those boards line up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've debated planing and sanding the edge of the side piece, or finding something the right size to stick under the back piece (multiple layers of paperboard cereal boxes cut to size perhaps).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the curious: this is a result of the terrible decision to disassemble and salvage wood from three couches.  With only a few exceptions every single board is exactly 1&amp;quot; thick.  I measured a bunch of them and then just started eying it.  I didn't discover that the board I put behind that back piece was only 29/32&amp;quot; thick until the glue had already dried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15278" LastActivityDate="2024-03-05T08:01:04.873" Title="What are some methods for fixing mis-aligned boards?" Tags="|furniture|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15202" CreationDate="2024-03-05T08:01:04.873" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've debated planing and sanding the edge of the side piece&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm interpreting the photo correctly, hand planing is what I'd recommend if planes are available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Planing is &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; way to reduce thickness, since taking off material is what a plane does. This will require more effort if you don't have any specialist planes intended for taking off lots of material (e.g. a jack plane set up traditionally) but still doable without.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps move the cap iron/chipbreaker back from the edge a little, adjust for a thicker cut, go for it. Slow down and adjust the plane back to normal settings to complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you work carefully at the end you can actually do this so that there's no need to sand when you're done; however, do so if you need to even up surface finish with other boards in the project (&lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; necessary if you're painting, paint is a great equaliser).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2024-03-05T08:01:04.873" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15164" CreationDate="2024-03-06T19:20:58.683" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not much more you can do other than treat it like any other low quality piece of wood...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill voids with wood filler or epoxy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sand it smooth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paint.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2024-03-06T19:20:58.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15206" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-06T23:24:36.760" Score="1" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am designing a unit constructed entirely of wood. The small (innermost) cylinders are 16&amp;quot; and the big (outermost) ones are 32&amp;quot;. The platforms are 3/4&amp;quot; BC plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CLmGA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CLmGA.png&quot; alt=&quot;Front&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concern is the height of the cylinders may allow the unit to tilt based on where placed relative to the platform, given some distribution of weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VJiIo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VJiIo.png&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at underside of left, topmost platform, there are three cylinders. The two on left are big and the one on right is small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I divided platform into four segments to demonstrate relationship with placement of cylinders (the platform in real life is just one piece). Each segment is 8&amp;quot; x 1' and each cylinder is perfectly centered to one of three. The bounding box of the platform is 2'x 2'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This placement extends to rest of unit as I try showing below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Ce4j.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Ce4j.png&quot; alt=&quot;Front and bottom&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using ~2&amp;quot; screws to fasten cylinders to plywood, but my test doesn't seem secure. The plywood itself is quite heavy, but I expect animals to be running on it too so the moderate weight load is an additional concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would screw length/thickness/type determine if the unit can be supported this way? Or should cylinders be placed at each corner instead? I didn't purposely because I like this aesthetic better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15364" LastActivityDate="2024-03-06T23:24:36.760" Title="Is this unit properly supported?" Tags="|plywood|screws|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2024-04-03T14:06:28.913" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15210" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15213" CreationDate="2024-03-08T23:36:55.990" Score="1" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if there is a best way to make such holes in wood, size 2mm x 10mm. Should I use small chisels or any other approach you recommend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8RsK8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8RsK8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15370" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2024-03-11T13:43:06.523" LastActivityDate="2024-03-11T13:43:06.523" Title="Making very small mortises/grooves in wood" Tags="|wood|hand-tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15211" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-09T06:20:39.800" Score="2" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trying to get the dark reddish stain off a bathroom door, hoping to make it look as light as possible. Looks like oak (veneer) to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I stripped door of (most) stain using Citrastrip twice. Then sanded with 120, then 180.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remained darker in the middle 3-4 inches of outer boards but getting close to veneer. Raised grain in those areas with damp cloth and iron (heat). Let dry overnight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanded a bit when dry the next day. Definitely helped it become uniform in tone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not light enough. Did a bleach coat on all. Let dry for 4 hours in the sun. Neutralized with vinegar/water. Let dry overnight. Did a very light 320 sanding by hand to remove a bit of grain raised by bleach. Used the 320 as I has already noticed veneer wearing away in a spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm an amateur, so watched lots of suggestion videos for lightening wood. Probably should have gone with one of the in-depth YouTubes rather than Home Depot paint person.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ended up coming home with Behr water-based wood conditioner and Behr white wash pickling stain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Applied and wiped wood conditioner as directed and ended up with some &amp;quot;water spots&amp;quot; after wiping. Does this mean I didn't do earlier steps well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Went ahead and applied Behr white wash pickling stain per directions (I used a $4 dollar non-shed brush, btw, if that's my problem). By the time I'd finished applying to the full door as quickly as possible, let sit a couple minutes and started wiping. Some areas were already goopy (from drying?) and wouldn't wipe evenly. :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One area looks good. the rest are uneven, gloopy/overcoated, or even look completely bare as if I wiped all the stain off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did the 320 make it too smooth to absorb stain? Did I wipe off too late in the gloopy areas? Too early in the areas that look like nothing took?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So frustrated. Any input is appreciated. Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15373" LastActivityDate="2024-03-09T15:41:52.740" Title="What am I doing wrong with white wash pickling stain?" Tags="|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15211" CreationDate="2024-03-09T15:35:45.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorting through what you have questions of regarding your efforts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your efforts stripping and sanding the door seem fine and your grit choices are good. For most applications it is not necessary to go much higher than 220 so your finish at 180 is adequate for the application.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The darker tone at the edges (bottom?) may be due to exposure to water or other things absorbed over time.  The fact that it remained after stripping and sanding suggests that mold or other sources of discoloration have penetrated into the cellular structure of the wood.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The second sanding may have helped, or it might also be that dust on the surface makes the wood look more uniform.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not sure if the bleaching would do anything other than raising the grain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As Graphus mentioned in a comment, the conditioner has little effect on oak.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pickling is simply a diluted paint coating (adds some white pigment to the outside).  This will help lighten the appearance but does not remove the darker wood coloring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's unclear what the waterspots are or how to avoid them. Possible something in the surface of the wood prevented uniform absorption of the conditioner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The brush had no bearing on the results.  You got the whitewash on and distributed and since you are wiping it off at the end, it is getting well distributed over the surface regardless of what brush or rag you use to apply it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yeah, the 'gloopy' character of the whitewash means you let it dry too&#xA;much.  You will know how large an area and when to wipe better in the future:(&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bare areas of the surface may be the result of the whitewash being poorly absorbed due to the conditioner which is basically closing some of the pores in the wood to reduce the difference in absorption for stains in soft woods.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 320 grit sandpaper had no bearing on the results.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 'frustration'...yeah some days are like that in woodworking :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What next?  Since the veneer is thin, re-sanding and trying again is not an option.  I think your options are painting it, you can try a woodgrain design if you are ambitious and adventurous, or getting a new door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2024-03-09T15:41:52.740" LastActivityDate="2024-03-09T15:41:52.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15210" CreationDate="2024-03-11T13:40:54.457" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I use small chisels or any other approach you recommend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think cutting by laser is arguably &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; way to do these, assuming the cost were not an issue. The results in all cases are going to be essentially perfect, requiring no time-consuming tricky and tedious small-scale work with hand tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming no laser however, should you use small chisels? Yes, partly; I think there's actually no choice but to cut these by hand, using a chisel among other tools — defining the long edges by cutting carefully with a knife seems prudent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was under the impression that no 2mm woodworking chisels were made, but the OP found them made by Kirschen (AKA Two Cherries), their &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kirschen.de/en/Mortise_Firmer-Chisels_p2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1001002 Firmer Chisel&lt;/a&gt;. These are quoted as having very good hardness, Rc61, are fitted with hornbeam handles with steel ferrules, and reinforced at the butt end with a steel ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Care should be exercised with chisels this narrow not to stress them sideways too much, or at all; especially at high hardnesses narrow chisels are prone to snapping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should go without saying but careful layout/marking will be absolutely key to accuracy here if working by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Method, a 'cheat'&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If I were doing some of these — and regardless of whether I was using hand tools or had them done by laser — I'd be very inclined to do a sort of cheat and split the wooden block by resawing, to leave a thick base piece and a thinner 'skin' that I'd work on separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resaw the blocks perhaps 80/20 or 90/10 (chosen based on desired mortise depth).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Smooth the mating surfaces to that they will glue back together perfectly; this can be done by hand planing or by sanding.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut grooves into the thinner piece, chiselling or lasering right through (instead of the 'slightly' more tricky operation of cutting mortises).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glue the block pieces back together, applying just enough glue to both surfaces to ensure a good bond while minimising cleanup.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill the recesses as you prefer, then make flush and clean up the top face.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean up all edges.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply finish of choice, done.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case you'd start with blocks slightly thicker than the final dimensions. 1mm or so should be enough. This is to allow for flushing at the end of course but also cleanup of any extraneous marks from laying out, or scorching from the laser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2024-03-11T13:40:54.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15214" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-12T11:36:30.790" Score="4" ViewCount="264" Body="&lt;p&gt;I asked this on the Home Improvement and it was suggested I ask here too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have a bay window which has an actual curve to it rather than the half octogan that some have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have skirting boarded the rest of the room in American Walnut and trying to determine how to bend it into a curve. The walnut has been pre-oiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not comfortable in kerf cuts as this is the only piece of remaining walnut that covers the span. If I ruin this piece then I will have to probably go with two pieces in the bay as it took several weeks to get this wood and carpet fitting is rapidly approaching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently I have it suspended between two stacks of books which I am slowly loading with tubs of water to bend it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of raising it further off the floor, draping towels over the edges and putting a food steamer underneath and running it to aid/speed up the bending.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this aid me or is it likely to ruin the wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood dimensions are: The thickest edge is 20mm and the thinnest is 5mm. The span is 2.5m and height is 150mm. The website I bought this from is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.britishhardwoods.co.uk/lambs-tongue-black-walnut-skirting-board.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.britishhardwoods.co.uk/lambs-tongue-black-walnut-skirting-board.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y1mZn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y1mZn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15379" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2024-03-13T01:55:08.910" LastActivityDate="2024-03-18T12:27:39.380" Title="Steam Bending American Walnut" Tags="|steam-bending|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15214" CreationDate="2024-03-12T14:14:15.610" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don’t have a ton of experience steam bending, so take this for what it’s worth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any bending of wood that’s already been dried (kiln is worse than air) is going to be harder to bend. The oil finish isn’t going to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If actual bending has any hope, I think you actually need to build a steam box. Overcurve the form a bit to allow for springback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of alternatives come to mind. Kerfing and curving might work, but if your skirting has a profile (sounds like it does), that might be rough. Cutting the profiled section off the flat section might be workable (since the thinner profile section might be convinced to curve without much kerfing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also consider a kerfed board that’s veneered with a thin layer of the flat section of your skirting. You probably need a bandsaw to harvest that veneer (and separate the profiled section). Or just buy walnut veneer, though that’ll be really thin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2024-03-12T14:14:15.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15216" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-12T19:47:24.990" Score="2" ViewCount="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning a sideboard that has 2 sets of doors on the outside and a pair of drawers in the middle. The desired appearance of the doors and fronts requires that the doors be as thick as 1.5 inches. Doors are overlay on the sides, inset on the top and bottom. I'm about to start prototyping, but I'm already thinking that the inner doors are going to strike the drawers in the center when they open, due to the thickness. Any advice on a type of hinge to use to avoid this binding, or an engineering idea to keep it from happening to begin with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15381" LastActivityDate="2024-03-12T20:59:51.513" Title="Making a thick door not catch on a drawer front" Tags="|design|hinges|door|drawer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15216" CreationDate="2024-03-12T20:59:51.513" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because the leading edge of a door travels in an arc instead of a straight line, in instances where the door fits tightly or a door is thicker than usual, you need to cut the leading edge of the door at a slight angle to clear the frame of the door and still allow it to close tightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way to do this is with a plane (or even a table saw, if available) so that the angle of the leading edge of the door allows the door to swing in to/out of the opening as tightly as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KWePB.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KWePB.png&quot; alt=&quot;Image graciously stolen from: https://www.carpentry-tips-and-tricks.com/leading-edge.html&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the specific dimensions of the door, the desired fit, etc. a good starting point would be somewhere like a 2-4 degree bevel on the edge of the door. You might want to practice this to find the best fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I'm sure some &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;math guy&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt; could provide a way to find the exact angle with an equation or calculation, but I am not that guy....)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More, better info. here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.carpentry-tips-and-tricks.com/leading-edge.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Carpentry Tips and Tricks.com (&amp;quot;How to apply a Leading Edge to doors so they close tighter and without binding&amp;quot;)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5522" LastActivityDate="2024-03-12T20:59:51.513" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15218" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-14T06:03:19.333" Score="1" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I inherited this whimsical object along with several other woodworking tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UTl41l.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UTl41l.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The item resembles a stepladder, albeit a very small one (about 50cm). A hinge is connecting the two main sides - one being some sort of rack and the other a slightly thinner solid board. The third side is probably a ratchet gear rack, although when the object is oriented the way it is in the photo, the ratchet gear rack is pulled down and away from the pawl, negating the functionality. The item is fully made of wood and not more than 80 years old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cannot see the image, try to view it in my Google Photos:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://photos.app.goo.gl/RvfapfBEemiYu8kL9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://photos.app.goo.gl/RvfapfBEemiYu8kL9&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5579" LastEditorUserId="5579" LastEditDate="2024-03-14T23:41:18.847" LastActivityDate="2024-03-14T23:41:18.847" Title="What is this adjustable/foldable rack for?" Tags="|furniture|hand-tools|tool-identification|hardware-identification|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15219" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15220" CreationDate="2024-03-14T11:13:22.140" Score="2" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to woodworking and I'm in the process of building myself a workbench for my garage. The workbench is divided into three sections. Each side will have space for storage and the middle will be left empty as I intend to be able to sit at the workbench. This space leaves space for my legs when sitting at the bench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've assembled the top and have cut the legs to length. The top is made from 94mm x 44mm smooth planed timber and a sheet of 18mm hardwood plywood. The legs are 69mm x 69mm smooth planed timber. I also have one more length of 94mm x 44mm which I intend to use as a brace along the whole back side. The two side sections will be boxed out with plywood to provide storage space and rigidity. The horizontal leg supports will need to be able support this plywood and anything stored in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/57lKm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/57lKm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;workbench in progress&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking ahead to how the horizontal supports with join with the legs and not too sure what the best option is. How should I join the supports to the legs in the circled areas? Are screws sufficient or maybe dowels? I've had a look at different types of wood joints but can't think of one which wouldn't end up with me cutting almost all the way through the leg to facilitate both the front and side supports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kd1of.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kd1of.png&quot; alt=&quot;workbench sketchup&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15385" LastActivityDate="2024-03-14T12:48:11.037" Title="Joining cross supports to workbench legs" Tags="|joinery|workbench|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15219" CreationDate="2024-03-14T12:48:11.037" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly I'd use a cross lap joint like&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jvi44.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jvi44.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do it from both direction, and yes it looks like you are cutting away all the beam but I've used this for my construction of wood racks, that hold a couple thousand pounds of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though most ways to do the joinery will work just fine, even butt joints if you can do a good job of nailing or screwing them together, because unless you are storing the weights from a weight lifting set ( and I mean a LOT of them) on the shelves even the butt joint is more than enough (with the right fasteners).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Metal L-Brackets would also work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2024-03-14T12:48:11.037" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15222" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15233" CreationDate="2024-03-15T18:08:56.127" Score="0" ViewCount="124" Body="&lt;p&gt;I work at a school and we have a green woodwork area. Which is awesome!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’d like to work towards using a shave horse and draw knives with the children there, aged 8-16 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve used shave horses and draw knives a fair bit, but have also heard from different people that they are ‘very foolproof and safe’... but then from others, that you can get horrible injuries and they may be quite dangerous, like on this compendium of Newspaper cuttings of drawknife injuries:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.lostartpress.com/2016/03/05/the-deadly-knee-hating-drawknife/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://blog.lostartpress.com/2016/03/05/the-deadly-knee-hating-drawknife/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will need a written risk assessment in order to run this activity at schools, but I can’t find any publicly available online- has anyone seen/know of one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is a draw knife designed to be safely used with a shave horse, or can a draw knife be safely used without a shave horse?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15388" OwnerDisplayName="Captainpadlock" LastEditorUserId="15388" LastEditDate="2024-03-15T20:56:26.313" LastActivityDate="2024-03-23T22:21:23.793" Title="Risk assessment for using draw knife/shave horse with children?" Tags="|safety|green-wood|draw-knife|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15223" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-17T18:36:13.330" Score="0" ViewCount="39" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good afternoon.  I'm installing some new newel posts and a new handrail for our interior stairs.  For attaching the handrail to the newel post, it appears the typical installation calls for rail and post fastener.  However, instead of the rail and post fastener, I'm considering using Kregg Pocket Hole Jig with 3-inch screws.  I'm installing a square handrail and will be painting it.  I'm thinking 2 screws (top and bottom) of the handrail to attach to the newel post would be adequate.  I don't see any posts of anyone doing this so I'm a bit hesitant, but I don't know why it wouldn't work nicely.  Can you think of any concerns with this approach?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15396" LastEditorUserId="15396" LastEditDate="2024-03-17T18:36:43.830" LastActivityDate="2024-03-17T19:55:19.743" Title="Handrail Installation (Interior Stairs) using Kregg Jig &amp; Screws" Tags="|installation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15223" CreationDate="2024-03-17T19:55:19.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, codes in North America typically call for railings to withstand 200 pounds in any direction. Personally, I doubt that a couple of pocket screws are up to that. I'm very open to differing opinions, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps you could install a couple of sturdy dowels and rely on the pocket screws to pull the railing to the post, rather than (potentially) bear the force alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2024-03-17T19:55:19.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15214" CreationDate="2024-03-18T00:10:16.087" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the end I went with the food steamer placed under the board with weights placed in the middle. Eventually got to 18kg. Finally after removing from the weight it was left with 8cm of bend which will have to do as the carpet fitters are coming.  Here is a photo of the early setup.  Once the additional weight went on I had to raise the two stands with more books as the towel was resting on the back of the steamer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gbScO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gbScO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Early test of steam bending&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15379" LastActivityDate="2024-03-18T00:10:16.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15227" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15229" CreationDate="2024-03-19T17:56:04.510" Score="2" ViewCount="501" Body="&lt;p&gt;This Forstner bit is 92mm in diameter, it's very large. I need to make a clean hole into a block of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks a bit dangerous, or looks like there's a risk to break the bit or tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how am I supposed to use it, with a hand drill, with a drill press, and at what rpm ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Common sense tells me to use the drill press, because the hole would be straight, but reading the bit's Amazon reviews people say that it's more dangerous than with a hand drill!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what the bit looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G5th4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G5th4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15402" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2024-03-20T08:47:10.737" LastActivityDate="2024-03-20T08:47:10.737" Title="How to use a very large Forstner-style bit" Tags="|drilling|drill-bits|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15227" CreationDate="2024-03-19T18:23:19.457" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well in general I always recommend using a drill press with forsner bits, they aren't required, but you got to take a lot of care if you don't and the press you get a cleaner hole more often.  In either case for one that size the piece you are drilling should be clamped down pretty well, since the first danger is the piece spinning and getting you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the next thing is it is best to have a drill with the side handle (if you are using a hand drill, or you have a good chance of hurting yourself when the bit catches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And since this is one with the center bit being a screw, that just adds to the fun, since it just keeps pulling the bit into the wood, and if you have an under powered drill (hand or press) it can make it 10 times harder to do, since you will then need to go slow enough that the screw is just drilling and not pulling...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2024-03-19T18:23:19.457" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15227" CreationDate="2024-03-20T08:41:24.503" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not to be overly picky but I think it's important to point out that &lt;em&gt;this is not a Forstner bit&lt;/em&gt;, no matter how it's named by the manufacturer. It's clearly derived from them of course, but all the key details that are changed here make it a different bit entirely..... most especially the lead screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the wood species you're drilling into, the thickness of the stock, the number of holes and how a couple of test drills go I'd be very tempted to do this with a brace myself if the lead screw is not removable. Lead screws already take the place of some/a lot of the downwards pressure requirement when drilling, which is why they're a feature of nearly all later bits designed for braces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, that said this bit is obviously intended for use with a power drill and &amp;gt;99% of users are going to use them that way. And the lead screw I think changes the best-practice advice from what it normally is for Forstner bits and derivative designs (which is that once you go above a certain diameter you should always mount them in a drill press/bench drill).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lead screws can be a real nightmare for power drilling and I've had some minor accidents myself (despite thinking I was being careful enough). And there's lots of long-standing advice from the old days to never use a bit with a lead screw in a drill press because the self-feeding is at odds with the way the drill press wants to advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; one portion of standing advice for large bits like this should remain, and that is they should be run &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; more slowly than smaller ones (because the speed &lt;em&gt;at the rim&lt;/em&gt; must be controlled to avoid overheating). Here this will also help reduce the risk of runaway feeding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust drill to a very slow speed, and here even more than normally try to let the bit do the work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Be prepared to stop if something goes wrong.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the workpiece is clamped down &lt;strong&gt;very&lt;/strong&gt; securely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If drilling multiple holes and the rim is getting uncomfortably hot put the drill aside to allow the bit to cool before proceeding (or dunk in water).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2024-03-20T08:41:24.503" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15230" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-20T15:47:17.367" Score="1" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m trying to bestow a 5-foot long hollow to a board, to use as support for the base of a midcentury modern tv cabinet. E.g.: the long horizontal member of the leg base in the image below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5CEYY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5CEYY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;midcentury modern tv console&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m limited to handtools. Let us suppose I can draw my preferred curve by bending a lath or with a shipcurve. How do I impart the bow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(it’s about 4-5 feet long)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h4&gt;Credits:&lt;/h4&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image is a screengrab from a youtube video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/AVb8ZBAOD0I&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/AVb8ZBAOD0I&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2024-03-22T19:30:19.137" LastActivityDate="2024-03-22T19:30:19.137" Title="How to make stuff concave - large radius - with handtools?" Tags="|hand-tools|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15231" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15232" CreationDate="2024-03-21T21:28:34.980" Score="2" ViewCount="334" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building up my woodshop and currently have a jointer (4&amp;quot; wide), a table saw, and a miter saw. I really wish I had a planer, but my budget is a little tight right now. In lieu of that, I'm trying to figure out any way to reliably use the jointer to get two parallel sides on a board. Normally, I'd flatten out one side with the jointer then move over to the planer to get the other side flat and parallel to the first. Is there a way to accomplish the second step just on the jointer rather than with a planer? Right now, I'm working mostly with 1x4 boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15407" LastActivityDate="2024-03-23T14:50:45.550" Title="Can I get two parallel sides of a board with only a jointer?" Tags="|jointer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15231" CreationDate="2024-03-22T03:07:50.187" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming a tablesaw with a tall enough blade and fence…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flatten one side on the jointer, run twice (bottom half, then top half) through the tablesaw, then flatten the sawn side nicely on the jointer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use featherboards and of course push sticks as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2024-03-22T03:07:50.187" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15222" CreationDate="2024-03-22T07:49:23.917" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Answering based on your comment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes the school already does woodwork with children in that age bracket, using knives, bowsaws, folding saws, splitting axes and hatchets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I would argue that a drawknife is safer than knives, safer than axes and hatches.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With pocket/shaving knives there is always the risk (and sometimes necessity) to work the blade &lt;em&gt;towards&lt;/em&gt; your fingers/hands, slipping and cutting yourself badly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With (carving) hatchets handling mistakes can easily endanger fingers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Splitting axes, when used unsafely, can lead to very serious injuries, e.g. in feet/legs when a swing misses or glances off. Or in fingers/hands in the good'ol &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;I'll just hold this log by hand and will let go in time&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drawknife by design requires two hands on the tool. This means:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your hands are safe since they are in no risk of ever coming near the blade.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The workpiece needs to be fixed in a shaving horse / vice / clamp, so there is no (or lower) chance for risks due to unsafe holding of the work piece by hand. On a properly designed shaving horse your legs/knees should be well out of the way of any slipping blade, and I'd argue this is even more true for modern workbench clamps and vices.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15414" LastEditorUserId="15414" LastEditDate="2024-03-23T22:21:23.793" LastActivityDate="2024-03-23T22:21:23.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15231" CreationDate="2024-03-23T14:50:45.550" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is also possible to create parallel faces using a router although it becomes much more work for larger pieces due to the small size of router bits.&#xA;First create the base face using the jointer, anchor the piece to a flat benchtop and straddle the width of the piece with two rail boards, slightly higher that the workpiece.  Using as wide a router bit with a flat bottom cutting edge and the router's wide base you can now route a new face that is parallel to the bottom. IF the work piece board is wider than your router base can span you may have to create a wider base for the router.  You can clean up the face with hand planes or sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2024-03-23T14:50:45.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13545" CreationDate="2024-03-23T15:34:33.170" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not sure if this has been mentioned, but your pre-stain (conditioner) has to be compatible with your stain.  Water based pre-stains need water based stains; oil based pre-stains need oil based stains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With water based pre-stains there is a possibility of some wood grain rising a tiny bit, so a light sanding with 220 grit, about 30 minutes after the excess pre-stain is wiped off.  Of course get all the sanding dust off before staining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil based pre-stained surfaces typically needs to be stained within 2 hours of the removal of excess if I recall correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15420" LastActivityDate="2024-03-23T15:34:33.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15236" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-24T01:38:20.170" Score="1" ViewCount="60" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a beginner in wood carving and I get this rough result when cutting parallel to the side:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vOBUw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vOBUw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried stropping my knives which I haven't had done yet and tried again with the same result. I even was able to reproduce on another wood piece (on the right on the picture).&#xA;It seems to happen when cutting parallel to the side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is causing this and how to avoid this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I searched about wood grain, but I'm still not sure I understand this concept, so it might be my issue. From the numerous sources I've looked at (like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c3aaH2Ttz3M&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;), I would say it's horizontal in the picture above and so should not be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also not sure if my knives are sharp enough since I'm a beginner (I saw &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/6101/15422&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;, but my problem is that even though I honed my knive, it seems this particular cut doesn't work and I don't know why) and I'm not sure how to know if I'm doing honing correctly (again, I looked at numerous sources like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Tt3K-kXhJc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;, but it's still not easy to know as a beginner).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15422" LastEditorUserId="15422" LastEditDate="2024-03-24T13:34:49.490" LastActivityDate="2024-03-25T08:47:51.167" Title="Getting rough results when cutting parallel to the side" Tags="|technique|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15237" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-24T23:28:29.050" Score="1" ViewCount="70" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a chair that broke and I need to buy two of these to replace them. I took the chair to a wood repair place or furniture repair place and he told me he would charge me more than the whole set is worth just to repair it. I know I can do it myself if I have the wood parts. Are these available or do I have to have them made?&#xA;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WlMhO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WlMhO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15423" LastActivityDate="2024-03-25T08:02:12.867" Title="What is the name of the brace?" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15237" CreationDate="2024-03-25T08:02:12.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know these are not available to buy as parts, except perhaps for 90° corners such as would be found on tables. Normally they'd simply be made in the factory or workshop that produces the chairs as part of the making process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The existing diagonal braces are possibly repairable, and the repaired parts could be as good as new (potentially actually &lt;em&gt;slightly&lt;/em&gt; stronger in fact). If you use PVA-type glues — white or yellow &amp;quot;wood glue&amp;quot; — you'll need the glue and one or more strong clamps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you already know, there's more going on here than just the split corner brace, as the broken dowel visible in the photo shows. A full repair to a chair with one or more breaks like this is not especially complicated or difficult, but requires:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;replacement dowels;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a drill and bits (the largest being the right size to create matching holes for the new dowels);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;adhesive (PVA or slow-setting epoxy recommended);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a selection of suitable clamps.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2024-03-25T08:02:12.867" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15236" CreationDate="2024-03-25T08:47:51.167" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Primarily, but not exclusively, this is almost certainly going to come down to: your knives aren't sharp enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As other previous Answers have touched on, learning to get tools sharp is a journey, and few people (literally almost nobody, from what can be gleaned from first-hand reports) can get &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; good results immediately&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; when sharpening freehand. And fewer still can do it consistently after that&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you think your knives are sharp now there's likely a bit of improvement possible. Quite a bit. Like, &lt;em&gt;if you're not actually scared of the edges because they're &lt;strong&gt;that&lt;/strong&gt; sharp&lt;/em&gt;, they're definitely not as sharp as they could be :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two other factors are that sideways cuts are cross-grain, and the basic methodology of how you do cuts that way when whittling or carving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cutting across versus with the grain&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;ALL cross-grain cuts are more difficult and tend to naturally leave a rougher surface&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;. This is because you're &lt;em&gt;severing&lt;/em&gt; wood fibres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By comparison with-the-grain cuts tend to split the wood &lt;em&gt;between&lt;/em&gt; fibres, naturally leaving a smooth surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Listen to the difference when you cut across the grain and when you cut with the grain; you might be able hear a sort of crunching noise cutting across the grain (that's the fibres being severed), and something much smoother sounding cutting with the grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Methodology&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;From what I've noticed myself and from personal observations of others working (not just in wood), it's fairly common for people to try to take cuts that are too heavy working across the grain when they're new. This is just as true here as when chopping mortises and cutting out the waste in dovetails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you need to do instead is slow down a bit for these harder cuts. Well actually more than a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of trying to remove big chunks, think more along the lines of doing paring cuts, slowing working away material until the final cuts which can be (should be?) the finest, in order to leave the best surface quality. Sharpness is key throughout the process so one needs to get accustomed to the need to regularly top up edges; try to learn to do it &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; an edge needs it rather than wait until it's obvious that the edge is a little blunt and needs attention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P.S. Species matters&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;As weird as this might sound, getting good results cutting sideways may actually be slightly easier in harder woods. It sounds paradoxical but here's why: harder woods have stronger fibres, so they stand up and provide more resistance, allowing them to be cut; by comparison soft woods, and especially very soft woods, tend to have limp fibres that fold over instead of allowing themselves to be cut cleanly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Unless they're lucky enough to have first-hand instruction. &lt;em&gt;Good&lt;/em&gt; first-hand instruction I should emphasise since there are plenty of bad teachers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; The eventual standard being &lt;em&gt;Every. Single. Time.&lt;/em&gt; of course. That's a lot to ask of anyone new to anything!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Compare for example the simple tooth geometry of rip saws v. crosscut saws for example, and the typically quite smooth result of ripping and the rougher result when crosscutting (although fine teeth and different tooth patterns can greatly affect quality of surface here).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2024-03-25T08:47:51.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15240" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-26T13:07:55.120" Score="1" ViewCount="40" Body="&lt;p&gt;The veneer on this shelf's plywood bubbled up.  I imagine there is not much expansion and contraction, so can I simply use drywall joint compound to fill this void once I cut the veneer away?  I purchased some Bondo wood filler, but I am not sure I want to deal with using it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a5xf3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a5xf3.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W4B4C.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W4B4C.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E0Mdc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E0Mdc.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15427" LastActivityDate="2024-03-27T07:46:44.707" Title="Drywall mud to patch bubbled veneer?" Tags="|plywood|wood-repair|filler|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15241" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-26T18:52:46.257" Score="1" ViewCount="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apologies in advance for the long intro — I thought it would be relevant to explain the setup I am looking to evolve and why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve started woodworking with power tools on a balcony, and as such my first bench had to be portable and did not need to be rock solid. I’ve gone with a Bora Centipede (tall version) and have been extremely happy with it for sawing, routing, sanding, assembly, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the recent months I have been switching to hand tools and non-s4s lumber. I have more space now, but at the outset I was not confident enough in my skills (or in my commitment to hand tools) to build a proper Roubo bench. So I built a Roman bench following Chris Schwarz’s book. I am again extremely happy with it. It works great for planing smaller boards, as well as chiseling, sawing, etc. I still use the Centipede for some tasks (and I still use a track saw for material breakdown).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found a gap in this setup with regards to planing. Some tasks are ok:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On the Roman bench, I can plane the faces of boards up to 60 cm / 24 in long. And I can plane the edges of boards of any length by holding them with a screw clamp.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On the Centipede braced against a wall, I can traverse a long board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X8Mi5m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X8Mi5m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Roman planing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EVabJm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EVabJm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Centipede planing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But neither option is very good for the faces of long boards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On the Roman bench, the only alternative is to sit on the board (otherwise it’s too low), but then I can’t plane all of it in one stroke.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Centipede is too short.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I appreciate that my setup is highly idiosyncratic. However, since it works for 90% of what I need to do (for now), &lt;strong&gt;I’d like to explore how I might augment it&lt;/strong&gt; instead of throwing everything away and starting over with a Roubo- or Nicholson-style bench. I am also hesitant to allocate space permanently to a giant bench (for now).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some options I’ve considered:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a second Centipede to support longer boards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Build a Japanese sawhorse (or a couple of them) from 10×10 cm (4×4 in) material&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Build a proper big and heavy bench (would like to avoid, but including for completeness)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something else you would recommend? Am I going against the grain (pun not intended) too much here? :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10115" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2024-03-27T07:29:34.087" LastActivityDate="2024-03-27T07:29:34.087" Title="Setup improvement for planing faces of long boards" Tags="|hand-tools|workbench|hand-planing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15240" CreationDate="2024-03-27T07:46:44.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you must remove some bubbled laminate and then make flush by filling, then the Bondo would be a much better bet for you if the choice is only between these two options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to sanding dead flush far better (because of its hardness) it'll also be far easier to make flush in the first place since it doesn't shrink back like drywall compound (and almost all similar water-based fillers). So in essence it'll reduce filling time, &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; sanding time despite being so much harder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other options as well, including but not limited to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;epoxy putties;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;DIY thickened epoxy (&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3807/large-hole-filler-products-what-is-available/3809#3809&quot;&gt;epoxy + filler material&lt;/a&gt;);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Durham's Water Putty or similar.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2024-03-27T07:46:44.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15243" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-27T14:51:12.037" Score="1" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;In tons of videos, (&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtube.com/shorts/ODqyRj_PW8Y?si=wwsPui6Hy_RaaRVs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;random YouTube example&lt;/a&gt;) the wood transforms into something totally different with a finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't for the life of me get anything even remotely as nice as those things. At best I get a small change in colour, but never have I been able to &amp;quot;buff out&amp;quot; the wood grain so much. What are these people using and what is the trick to get it right? Is the secret in the coating or in the wood (or both)? How much of this is editing and they're actually applying multiple layers? Should I use a piece of cloth or a brush? How much should I use?&#xA;I have so many questions, but in the end I just want to have results like that. I'm looking for basically the &amp;quot;top 5 steps to get started and get reasonably good results&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clarifications: I've tried different finishes sold in my local DIY store, none come even close. Results I've gotten so far range from barely visible over brown smudges to essentially paint that covers everything up. I'm looking for this &amp;quot;buffing&amp;quot; effect, where the wood looks professional, the grain shows through, and it's an even coating. I'm not looking for a specific protection or something, right now my focus is on visuals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a beginner, got a few tools but not yet a complete shop and mostly experience on practical things like an outdoor enclosure for my cats and stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've worked mostly with rough wood, I've tried sanding it with whatever sand paper I happened to have, I've tried polishing it (bought a polishing set for my grinder). I've tried an oil and a varnish from the local DIY store, both picked for colour without any understanding of ingredients. Yes, I'm a beginner. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15430" LastEditorUserId="15430" LastEditDate="2024-03-28T11:08:35.887" LastActivityDate="2024-03-28T11:08:35.887" Title="how to get a really nice finish on wood as a beginner?" Tags="|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15243" CreationDate="2024-03-27T18:27:24.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that to get the best results, you would need to be deliberate about two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how you prepare the surface&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how you choose the finish&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For surface preparation, the first thing is to get the wood flat. You can buy it flat (rather than rough), you can take it to a commercial shop to get flattened, you can use a hand plane (lots of videos on YouTube) or machines (ditto).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go with a hand plane, you &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be able to skip the next step, which is sanding. Again this needs to be more deliberate. E.g. start with 80 grit, move to 120 grit, then to 180 grit. Draw pencil lines across the entire board so that you can check your progress (i.e. when the lines disappear). Search on YouTube for “how to sand a board” :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the finish selection, I recommend you to read one of the many finish comparison posts on the internet, pick &lt;em&gt;one&lt;/em&gt; finish and try to get better with it. My first pick was shellac — it looks good but is definitely not fool-proof. Something like a hardwax oil (e.g. Osmo) can be more fool-proof, although I am sure more experienced woodworkers might take an issue with this recommendation! (Note that neither of those is outdoor-proof!!!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This depends on where you live, but I would not necessarily trust the local DIY store to carry a good finish. Or good sandpaper for that matter. Check the many sandpaper comparison videos on YouTube. I like 3M Cubitron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For ultimate results, the common recommendation seems to be to read this book: &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/1565235665&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Wood-Finishing-Comprehensive-Troubleshooting/dp/1565235665&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10115" LastEditorUserId="10115" LastEditDate="2024-03-27T18:34:56.490" LastActivityDate="2024-03-27T18:34:56.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15245" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-28T01:00:52.990" Score="0" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;Or is the blade simply warped due to some unimaginable misuse?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It belonged to my great grandfather who died in 1968, so it should be a fairly modern tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SU6W3l.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SU6W3l.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PkSjJl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PkSjJl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gFnRsl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gFnRsl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EeCUxl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EeCUxl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5579" LastActivityDate="2024-03-28T01:00:52.990" Title="Is there a tool that uses such a bowed blade?" Tags="|tool-identification|blade|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15247" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-28T20:02:57.533" Score="3" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to cut a cuboid section out of a 20cm post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tm3XE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tm3XE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hand saw shows where I want to cut straight down&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My only thought is to make lots of cuts and then go to work with a chisel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any alternatives?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Went as far as I dared with a chainsaw&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8XIYd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8XIYd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then used a chisel&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uSDzS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uSDzS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I still think this is a worthwhile post.  Maybe there is still a better way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That was a test - the real ones are oak &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you to everyone for contributing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15433" LastEditorUserId="15433" LastEditDate="2024-03-29T21:17:29.010" LastActivityDate="2024-03-29T21:17:29.010" Title="How to cut a straight 10cm section out of a 20cm post" Tags="|wood|cut|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15247" CreationDate="2024-03-29T12:42:07.593" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I have made similar removal of wood I use my skill saw and make a LOT of parallel cuts so it is easy to clean out with a chisel, 10cm is a bit more than my skill saw could handle, however, I would still set it as deep as possible, make the cuts and then use a different saw to finish making as deep as I needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2024-03-29T12:42:07.593" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15250" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15252" CreationDate="2024-03-30T14:16:34.773" Score="0" ViewCount="53" Body="&lt;p&gt;The door hinges seem to be not lined up with the cupboard panel. We will eventually replace it all but for now I need a way to either fix or reinforce the door so it doesn’t keep coming off the cupboard&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lO9n2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lO9n2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I’ve got two options in mind. One is to try and fill everything with wood filler and then re-align the hinges again, which I’m not sure how strong it’ll be and the other is to use metal backplates to bolt the hinge attachments to the door but I feel this will still mean the door will still fall off over time but the hinges are may be more securely attached. Though I’m open to other options of course!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15442" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2024-03-31T15:33:15.670" LastActivityDate="2024-04-01T06:34:06.620" Title="How can I best fix and reinforce this door that has flat concealed hinges which are misaligned" Tags="|cabinetry|hinges|door|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15250" CreationDate="2024-03-30T21:52:55.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Google “euro cup hinge screw insert“&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drill out the stripped screw holes and put in the inserts. Reattach your hinges. They have a number of adjustments in the x y and z axes, so you should be able to align them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XLR3O.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XLR3O.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;plastic doohickeys&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Image source, &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B005MXBPHM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/Hinge-Dowel-Screws-Pack-Hinges/dp/B005MXBPHM&lt;/a&gt; —- absolutely not a recommendation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="503" LastActivityDate="2024-03-30T21:52:55.840" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
</posts>